# >>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>



## turrican9

*Reviews/Unboxing*

*ASUS P8P67*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*Asus P8P67 Review | bit-tech.net

ASUS P8P67 and P8P67 Deluxe Intel Sandy Bridge Motherboard Review

ASUS P8P67 Motherboard Review - VORTEZ*



*ASUS P8P67 PRO*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*HardwareCanucks.com - Asus P8P67 Pro Review (B3)*

*MotherBoards.org - Asus P8P67 Pro Review*

*aphnetworks.com - Asus P8P67 Pro (B3) Review*













*ASUS P8P67 EVO*



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*Asus P8P67 Evo Motherboard Review - Ninjalane.com

ASUS P8P67 EVO Motherboard Review - Benchmark Reviews

ASUS P8P67 EVO Motherboard - OCIA.net*









*ASUS P8Z68-V PRO*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*ASUS P8Z68 V PRO Intel Z68 review - Guru3D

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO Z68 Sandy Bridge Motherboard Review - HardwareCanucks*









*Newegg TV: ASUS Sandy Bridge P67 H67 1155 Mainstream Motherboard Lineup



Newegg TV: ASUS Z68 1155 Motherboards



Newegg TV: Sandy Bridge Overclocking & UEFI Demo on ASUS P8P67 P67 1155*

*




Wanna take bios snapshots? Use a USB stick and hit F12 when in the bios!

Various Info/Issues About The ASUS P8P67 Series

Here is some interesting information posted by munaim1 about C3/C6 states and their relation to SATA performance. Especially with Sandforce SSD's. I'll just link to his post. Link

Here are some important information. Thanks to munaim1 for pointing me to this*

Quote:
Originally Posted by *munaim1;13469291* 
I think you should add this to the op. Handy peiece of info from my thread








*IMPORTANT INFO FOR ASUS P67 MOBO USERS*

The member quoted below killed his sb chip through a bug in Asus's bios. It is apparent that switching between profiles mainly offset and manual) the voltage does somewhat get altered. As pointed out, this bug is very dangerous and *I do always recommend checking settings before applying *but nevertheless this bug should be a top priority for asus.

Here is the link to the actual thread. LINK

Quote:
Originally Posted by *grunion;13377004* 
When swapping between profiles the offset voltage changes to .975

So 1.24v+.975v=*2.215v*

Happened to catch it last night before I saved and exited my 5ghz +.105 offset, the offset was actually at +.975v.
Had I not checked...

So be careful and always double check the offset when switching saved profiles.

*MY OWN EXPERIENCE WITH THIS BUG !!*

*ASUS P8P67 series Double POST at Cold Boot Fix*

Quote:
Originally Posted by *[email protected];4712067* 
Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I'll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.

First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.

*Another possible solution for the Coldboot problem. Quoted from this thread*.

Quote:
Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12774503* 
Was having a problem with cold boots, would power of and on and off and on then finally post. I was almost positive it was my power supply because the same thing happened with my UD7 low and behold it was the setting highlighted by the cursor below.

*Internal PLL Over-Voltage-Disabled , no more cold boot problems !!!*

I am stressing this right now!!! If you are having cold boot up problems with system looping on and off, disable this and it will more than likely solve your problem, although it is sometimes needed for high 48+ multi clocks!



*Do you have wakeup from sleep/hibernate problems? Try to disable Internal PLL Overvoltage! (Beware, you may need it enabled in order to boot Windows at those higher multipliers. 46x +..)*

*The JMicron/Marvell and CPU Fan Error issues and how to resolve*

*Slow boot because of the Marvell (Which controls the two Navy Blue SATA connectors topmost on the board) controller detects no harddrive and loops you back to the main screen, and then back to the Marvell screen yet again? If you don't use it you can disable it in bios. Same goes for the JMicron controller which handles the E-Sata at the back of the board.

Here is a screen to where you disable these:









Have a CPU Fan Error on startup, even though you've plugged the fan to the connector and the fan is spinning? Well, may be due to low RPM when booting. You could try to lower the 'CPU FAN Speed Low Limit' from bios. You can also choose to ignore the CPU FAN RPM.

Here is a screenshot to where in the bios you do this:*









***Overclocking***

*Always backup your system partition before you go crazy on the overclocking!*

*Here is a link to free Imaging/Backup Software - Free Hard Disk and Partition Imaging and Backup Software. Also a free Edition of Western Digital - Acronis True Image Here.

A few Words about Offset Vcore.

Me and others have seen that when using Offset instead of manually typing in the Vcore, you get a more stable Vcore - Vcore will fluctuate less VS manual Vcore. This again can contribute to a somewhat lower Vcore needed for a certain clock frequency VS manual Vcore setting.

When you put volt values in the Offset field, you add the Vcore you type in there, to the VID of your CPU. However, the VID will vary between each different CPU, and also the speed you run it at.

My 2500K has 1.2410v VID when at 3.3GHz stock. This VID changes to 1.3410 when I overclock it to 4.5GHz. When I type in + 0.020 Volts for Offset, it will then give me 1.3410v + 0.020v = 1.3610v under load. This was tested with LLC at Ultra high. My real Live Prime 95 Blend Vcore varied between 1.360v - 1.376v. And for the most part was about ~1.368v.

If you are stable at full load, like Prime95 while using Offset, but get BSOD's when Idle/light load it is probably because the CPU Vcore ramps down on different load.

This usually happens at higher overclocks when using Offset. For me it works perfectly to use Offset at 4.5GHz with no BSOD's. But if you get problems on higher overclocks, you can try one of two things:*


*Try disabling C3/C6 states. This will hinder the CPU in ramping down the Vcore (as much?) when at idle/light load with Offset Vcore. (Will try this myself. Got a report it helped stability.) Update! I have been using C3/C6 disabled for a long time now. Turns out these can cause idle BSOD's or freezing if they are at AUTO or ENABLED when overclocking. Me and others have confirmed it is best to leave these two Disabled when overclocking.

Beware though, that when disabling both C3 and C6 the Turbo Ratio: By Per Core function in bios will no longer work.

Also another update, which have been posted in the first post of this Club for a while now, there have been reports when disabling C3/C6 stats can infact loose harddrive/SSD peformance. Especially SATA3 SSD's and Sandforce based SSD's. I have not experienced any performance loss with my Intel X-25 Gen.1 and Gen.2 SSD's when disabling C3/C6 stats.

Here is a quote from the post I made earlier:*
*Quote:*
*Here is some interesting information posted by munaim1 about C3/C6 states and their relation to SATA performance. Especially with Sandforce SSD's. I'll just link to his post. Link*

*Instead use High LLC. This way you can have C3/C6 at Auto because High LLC will give you a higher Idle Vcore. Just compensate by using a Higher Offset Value to get about the same Load Vcore VS Ultra High LLC. This is probably the best solution.*

*Use manual Vcore setting instead of Offset.*

*Some very interesting info. (Testing this myself!)*

*Quote:*
*Originally Posted by eduardmc;12411669 
Be patient with me since english is not my native language.

So far i have been able to lower my voltage from 1.520v to 1.456v stable @ 5.1ghz. how did i do it?

i got my sandy bridge on release day and have been overclocking, trying to find out a stable highest clock with lowest voltage. People might think that it is easy but is not cause is to much time consuming. You are never satisfy with your speed cause you want you reach a new safe limit of it.

after trying so many thing and having a good batch (i know it doesnt matter much) i couldn't understand why everyone was beatting my voltage.

The problem lies in the RAM and VCCIO voltage. Sandy bridge overclocking seems to be afected by ram (size and overclocking) and VCCIO volage somehow. i see that must overclocker can achive higher core/lower voltage with only 4gb (2x2gb) while people with (2x4gb) can also reach it but with higher voltage (core voltage).

i started tweaking with all voltage. i spend 2 entire days doing this, enabling and disabling, prime95 and all. I found out that if you have 8gb and overclocking your ram is limiting to have a stable overclock with lower voltage and you might think is the CPU fault.

After working with all the voltage my motherboard has to offer, i went back to VCCIO voltage (every other voltage on auto) and notice that if i decreased it my overclocking at same VCORE would become instable (0.800v). BUT increasing VCCIO BECAME STABLE AT LOWER VCORE. i was able to decrease my vcore from 1.520v to 1.456v by increasing VCCIO voltage to 1.18V. Do not go overboard on VCCIO voltage and try to maintain 1.2v or lower.

Before my pc would not boot 5.1ghz with 1.48V and now i'm prime95 4 hours stable with 1.456v. I even think that i can go even lower.

Please do not bash my post just trying to help because that is why we are here right...*

*Source!

Monitoring/CPU-ID and Stability Testing Software Links

Monitoring/CPU-ID*

*CPU-Z Home
Real Temp Home (Latest Version for Sandybridge. Not found on their Hompage)
HWiNFO 32/64 Home
Core Temp Home
CPUID HWMonitor Home*

*Stability Testing Software*

*Prime 95 Home (Blend test highly recommended for Sandybridge)
IBT Home (Latest version Home)
OCCT Home*

*TwoCables template for his stable Core i5 [email protected] overclock*

Quote:
*Originally Posted by TwoCables;14344733 *

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual*
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0*
*Turbo Ratio: By All Cores*
*By All Cores: 48*
*Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled*
*Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory*
*DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory*
*EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled*

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio: Auto*
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled*
*Turbo Mode: Enabled*
*Long Duration Power Limit: Auto*
*Long Duration Maintained: Auto*
*Short Duration Power Limit: Auto*
*Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto*
*Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto*

*Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)*

*Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High*
*VRM Frequency: Manual*
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350*
*Phase Control: Extreme*
*Duty Control: Extreme*
*CPU Current Capability: 140%*
*CPU Voltage: Offset Mode*
*Offset Mode Sign: +*
*CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V*
*DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory*
*VCCSA Voltage: Auto*
*VCCIO Voltage: Auto*
*CPU PLL Voltage: Auto*
*PCH Voltage: Auto*
*CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled*

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio: Auto*
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled*
*Active Processor Cores: All*
*Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled*
*Execute Disable Bit: Enabled*
*Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled*
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled*
*Turbo Mode: Enabled*
*CPU C1E: Enabled*
*CPU C3 Report: Disabled*
*CPU C6 Report: Disabled*

*Note:* that Offset Voltage gets me a Core Voltage in CPU-Z of about 1.384V - 1.392V while under full load in Prime95's Blend. So be cautious and adjust accordingly.

*Official ASUS P8P67 Series Overclocking Guide and Information*

*Quoted from a great thread on HardOCP by Juan_Jose*

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Juan_Jose;4710466* 
Hello One Hello All,

It has been alittle time since the launch and the retail availbility of Intel new Sandy Bridge CPUs ( especially K parts ) as well as their corresponding P67 Motherboards.

We at ASUS would like to first and foremost thank all the users who have once again trusted in ASUS and purchased one of our P8P67 Series of motherboards. We have worked quite hard to ensure a quality range of boards with a quality bios are ready at the time of launch.

With that noted there are alot of changes that users are going to need to be aware of. As such I am releasing this information in hope users will know how to best use their boards and new UEFI options. Hopefully this guide will provide a solid detailing of many of the new aspects users are interested should there be additional questions, concerns or inqueries please let me know and i will do my best to reply.

*Lastly as always ASUS holds no liability for any damage you or your hardware may incur during the pursuits of overclocking.*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I have detailed our recommendations to maximize the overclocking potential / scaling on ASUS' P67 series of motherboards. This Guide has been developed after extensive internal testing across multiple boards, multiple bios builds and a high sampling rate of both D1 and D2 CPUs. While this guide is not a definitive article listing every possible overclocking combination, the information contained listed is providing repeatable results in our testing. Of course the quality of the cpu and cooling is very important but overall we think the results on our boards should exceed those of others at like settings.

*Expectations regarding K series overclocking in general and on ASUS P67 motherboards*Prior to the recommendations on overclocking the K series, I am outlining our results to set expectations.
The results below are based on the range of the CPU turbo multiplier when overclocking.
Results are representative of 100 D2 CPUs that were binned and tested for stability under load; these results will most likely represent retail CPUs.
1.Approximately 50% of CPUs can go up to 4.4~4.5 GHz
2.Approximately 40% of CPUs can go up to 4.6~4.7 GHz
3.Approximately 10% of CPUs can go up to 4.8~5 GHz (50+ multipliers are about 2% of this group)
Additionally it is recommended to keep 「C1E」and「EIST」option enabled for the best overclock scaling. This is different than previous Intel overclocking expectations where the best scaling was with disabled power states or power management options.
Update specific to D2 and retail parts: Jan 11 2001
As always ASUS strives to be at the forefront of performance and functionality offered by a quality bios. Keeping this in mind ASUS has been actively working in conjunction with Intel to optimize overclocking potential on ASUS P8P67 motherboards and K series CPUs. With the latest bios revisions ( 1000 series ) or 600 series for ROG specific optimizations have been made to the microcode and corresponding tables that relate to D2 and retail parts. These are improvement are in addition to general improvements in all respects. Present with this new build of the UEFI is a new option. This option / value is " Intel PPL Overvoltage" this option furthers multiplier scaling considerably.* In addition due to the increase in scaling more exotic forms of cooling cannot be used and will be needed under certain multiplier ranges and corresponding voltages. The general maximum range for the highest performing dual fan air based heastinks still remains 50x to 52x.

* Intel PPL Overvoltage ( for increased K series overclocking set to enabled )

Overall in our ongoing internal tests the maximum frequency now achievable ( under LN2 ) is 5.8GHz. At this time we do not have a compiled database to reference improvements in the overall scaling range or new % of CPUs able to hit 50+ multis. With that noted currently we are seeing generally a minimum of 2 multi to as much as 7 multi increases with this value enabled on applicable D2 and retail parts.
Example
A D2 sample with peak multiplier of 44 with PPL option enabled and corresponding voltage applied we have seen results of a stable 50 multiplier now able to post / boot and be held. ( previously without the PLL value the same CPU would failed to compelte a boot with a any multi exceeding 45 )
In addition to the increase of the multiplier range a "side effect" is additional Vcore needed to compensate for maintained post/boot and stability tests. The new voltage level do not align with standard voltage scaling ( on CPU already able to hit / sustain comparable multipliers.
Example
Generally 4.8GHz stability can be achieved at 1.400 - 1.425 Vcore now with PLL enabled D2 parts exceeding their previous max multiplier the increase in voltage would be 1.425 - 1.450.
It is important to note this option should generally only be used with D2 and retail parts NOT D1 parts. Internally we have partial results to indicate degradation of stability at previously reached multiplier values. Some internal testing has shown on limited samples that some improvement is possible (generally in the range of 1 multi possibly 2 )
In addition continued testing with the PPL option enabled and D2 or retail parts have shown some benefits to CStates being disabled when approaching, at or exceeding a 50x multiplier. An important note to keep in mind is that disabling CStates can considerably affect HD performance ( especially SATA6G ) Please keep this in mind when going for the highest level overclocks.

*Expectations regarding K series overclocking implementation options on ASUS motherboards - Using Speedstep or Not Using Speedstep*

Quick Note on implementation of K series Turbo Multiplier control -
While our Digi+ VRM option has extensive adjustments to voltages, multipliers and Bclk (such as .1 increments ex 106.8 or 108.1) one specific difference is noted below.
With the latest bios revision ASUS motherboards have a high level of flexibility at customizing the efficiency and consistency of the overclock values set in the UEFI.
It possible to overclock while keeping speedstep enabled and use the offset voltage method for Vcore increase this will provide the overall best in temperature and heatsink performance as well as generally efficiency and extension of the lifespan of the motherboards its components and the CPU. This is due to the Turbo Multiplier working and exucting ramping as Intel intended.
Example leaving all CStates and Speedstep enabled will allow the CPU to idle down in Vcore and frequency ( 1600MHz ) and ramp up when under load to 4.8GHz when needed.
Should there be interest in consistently maintain a desired clock frequency users can disable Speedstep and still keep Intel Turbo multiplier overclocking enabled.
•Please note that overall disabling or adjustments of Speedstep or CStates do not affect overclocking range ( this is different than previous generations when power saving states were advised to be disabled when exceeding 3.8 to 4.0GHz ).

*K series overclocking benefits on different ASUS P67 motherboards*

Quick Note Regarding Motherboard Stack - What does going higher in the board stack provide overclocking wise?
ASUS' entire line of P67 motherboards features a class leading and high performance Digi+ VRM implementation that allows for superior overclocking performance; there will be differences between boards.
While our entire board lineup has been internally tested to fully support K series processors, when overclocking in multiplier ranges of 50 to 54x the higher end boards will benefit in two key categories.
1.Better Vdroop efficiency.
2.The ability to help drive and sustain a 50+ high load Overclock under maximum loads. Examples of boards that focus on this level are our Deluxe, WS, SABERTOOTH, and Maximus IV Extreme

*K series overclocking multipier wall*

Quick Note regarding the K series multiplier wall - Previous generations of Intel CPUs due to architectural differences had two aspects that could readily change OC scaling potential. These two factors were TDP (heat output under load) as well as core (CPU/VTT ) voltage being supplied. With previous generation cpus, improvements such as high end air cooling, water cooling or more extreme forms like LN2 in addition to extreme voltage increases could potentially provide increases in clock speeds on a continual ramp until the limits of the CPU were reached. This is not the case with K series on the P67 chipset.
In internal testing we have found that maximum multipliers in excess of 50 (up to 54) have been able to be realized with full stability under Air Cooling and with cpu vid voltages under 1.525V. In fact, the processors will actually start to downclock as they get colder with temperatures under -20C actually performing worse than the retail air cooler at times. The processors optimal range for performance is around 15~20C in our testing.
An example is noted below.
Should you have a CPU in hand that reaches a 47 multi easily ( posting/booting and running full stability tests at a set Vcore of 1.375V) you would then attempt to jump to the next multiplier. With the K series CPUs you may have reached the max multi regardless of the cooling or voltage used. Adjustments to either of these settings will not change the ability of the board and CPU to post at 48x. The only time it will continue to scale would be if the CPU in hand supports higher multipliers or can be finely tweaked to reach that next multi, in this case we suggest using the 47x multi and adjusting Bclk until you reach the limits of stability.
100BCLK + 47 Turbo Multiplier with Vcore of 1.375 and LLC ( load line calibration of ultra high = 4.7GHz
100BCLK + 48 Turbo Multiplier with Vcore of 1.400 and LLC ( load line calibration of ultra high ) = no boot
100BCLK + 48 Turbo Multiplier with Vcore of 1.425 and LLC ( load line calibration of ultra high ) = no boot
100BCLK + 48 Turbo Multiplier with Vcore of 1.450 and LLC ( load line calibration of ultra high ) = no boot
It is important to note that a post will still occur with a multi present that is at the multi wall. This is because only when the OS begins to initialize and the Turbo ratio is initialized ( kicks in and ramps up ) that Turbo Multiplier will be raised to defined multi at this point it will then cease to boot due to the multiplier wall being reached.

*K series overclocking and voltage range recommendations*

Quick Note regarding Voltage Scaling - Internal binning of both D1 and D2 parts we discovered consistent voltage scaling patterns.
1.For K series parts, the stock voltage supplied will allow for consistent overclocking generally up to a multiplier of 43x. There is potential for the multi to be raised to 44x depending on the load induced. This default voltage range be approx 1.240 to 1.260 under load.
2.Increased range between 44 to 47x multipliers will generally require a voltage range between 1.30 to 1.375V with an LLC recommended setting of high to ultra high.
3.Increasing the range between 48 to 50x multiplier will generally require a voltage range between 1.40 to 1.500 with a LLC recommended setting of ultra high.
4.Increased range between 50 to 52 (52 generally considered peak max multiplier except for rare 54x parts) will generally require a CPU voltage range between 1.515 to 1.535V with LLC at Ultra High and potential fine adjustments to the CPU skew range.

Overall a key item to note is the best voltage to oc scaling range potential for the turbo multiplier is 1.400 to 1.425 vcore. Using this voltage range with an LLC recommendation of ultra high will generally provide the best scaling potential with proper load temperatures*. We have generally found exceeding this voltage will not provide additional scaling or will increase load temperatures to a high level with synthetic load applications ( like Prime, Linx, OCCT ). Should you use more realistic loading testing (our recommendation is a combination of AIDA64 stress test, PC Mark Vantage) then temperatures under will be considerably under the max TDP rating.

*cooling recommendation and test performed with CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ with Single Fan, this is the minimum recommendation for multis above 46x. For 50+ multis we recommend a dual fan configuration with this cooler or improved cooling.
K series overclocking benefits from non CPU Voltage based adjustments ( UEFI values for power management , Cstates, PCH etc )

*Quick note regarding bios values that should be adjusted*

- Over a long test and tune cycle, ASUS has developed a class leading bios with superior auto overclocking. This superior performance translates to overclocking in two ways, manually or automatically via the use of our Auto Tuning application.
Keeping in mind that most retail K series parts will be sub 50 multi capable, our Auto Tuning application has been designed to Auto Tune up to a range of 50 should the CPU support it. In effect reaching the absolute maximum clock a user can reach manually. Additionally Auto Tuning can serve as a good option for seeing the potential in the CPU and max multiplier it may have before fine tuning the system.
An example is shown below. P8P67 (Standard) - 2600K, Hyper 212+, Corsair 1600C8 memory 4 dimm.

*Should you continue with manual overclocking, these are the advised recommended values.*

4.7GHz or Below
All bios values to Auto except for those noted-
CPU Turbo Multiplier
Dram Voltage to specification
Internal testing has shown Auto Values will allow for stability in all forms of testing including high synthetic high load applications (Linx, Prime95, Occt ). In the event general stability is not achieved in these synthetic high load applications, you can adjust the noted values for improved stability.
Digi + VRM options
VRM frequency to 350 - Requires setting to manual adjustment and entering the specified value.
4.7GHz and above
CPU Turbo Multiplier - To desired value
Dram Voltage to specification
Digi + VRM options
VRM Frequency change to 350 - this value will allow for scaling to 50+ multi without issues
Phase Control change to extreme - this value will allow for scaling to 50+ multi without issues
Duty Control change to extreme - this value will for scaling to 50+ multi without issues.
No other values need to be changed. Unless otherwise noted all other UEFI values used are AUTO.
K series overclocking and its affect on subsystem performance especially HD performance
Quick note regarding options that can affect subsystem performance
It is NOT advised to make adjustments to Cstates as this can considerably affect hard drive throughput performance ( especially SATA6G SSD or Sandforce 2 based SSD ). It is recommended that all CPU power configuration states be left on their default parameters. Overclocking tests have shown internally no increase in multiplier scaling when adjusting these values. * under special cases with high multi capable CPUs and synthetic high load applications ( Linx, Prime, Occt ) it may required C states to be disabled. This has generally only been confirmed for some 51-54 multi capable CPU's.
K series overclocking benefits from adjustments to Digi+ VRM options
Advanced Digi+ VRM options recommendations
VCCSA
This has shown in internal testing not to improve overclocking, yet may still maintain the same level of stability while being lowered from its default value in order to keep the CPU cooler.
VCCIO
The adjustment of this voltage may help to slightly improve the overclocking capability of the IMC / DRAM, even though the default voltage is enough to run at a 2133MHz DRAM frequency. A 1.20v setting is more than adequate to maximize Memory overclocks in most cases.
CPU PLL
This setting did not improve overclocking, yet the user can maintain the same level of stability while lowering its default value in order to keep the CPU cooler.
PCH Voltage
This setting did not improve overclocking, yet the user can maintain the same level of stability while lowering its default value in order to keep the CPU/PCH cooler.
PCH PLL
This setting did not improve overclocking, yet the user can maintain the same level of stability while lowering its default value in order to keep the CPU/PCH cooler.
K series overclocking and how BCLK is affected and how to best optimize BCLK scaling
Quick Note for BCLK tuning
BCLK clocking is considerably reduced with this new CPU architecture and as such it is recommended to focus on Turbo Multiplier adjustments for overclocking. With that noted should you choose to make adjustments to the BCLK, ASUS has enabled extensive control to maximizing scaling.
Internal testing shows BCLK ranges from 102 to 109.1 with the largest level of scaling dependency placed on the quality of the CPU. CPU Frequency and speed is also directly tied to BCLK scaling. Internally we know that BCLK tuning largely depends on the CPU with approximately but we have noticed up to a 20% dependency on scaling potential based on the board design and PWM utilized.

At 4.9GHz, generally the maximum clock speed will not change with a different combination of multi and bclk in this particular example.
Example-
100x49 = 4.9GHz
103x48 = 4.9xxGHz
Generally the CPU will not do much more than what your maximum CPU multiplier range is in most cases. Keeping this in mind, we offer very fine adjustments down to 0.1x increments to allow for the maximum BCLK tuning.

Lastly when considering adjustments to the BLCK range, it is important to remember it will affect the memory divider/strap and DRAM frequency. Keeping this in mind you may want to adjust to a lower divider if your memory does not higher frequencies. This especially true when attempting to sustain 4 dimm and high memory density configurations with high BCLK and high Turbo Multiplier values.

Hope this helps. As always please enjoy the rest of your day.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juan_Jose;4710467*
> Additional Information for those that do not want to read through the guide.
> 
> Assuming you have a CPU that can execute and hold a 48 multi the screen behold will show you how to quickly enable a 4.8GHz OC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
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> Select Ai Overclock Tuner,Select Manual
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> Now see the expanded options for Turbo Ratio Control and Select By All Cores in OS.
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> Now manually defined 48 value in each of the core values ( 1 , 2 ,3, 4 )
> 4.
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> Depending on what your retail CPU is capable of ( which Auto Tuning should provide you an idea of ) Enable this option! This option is specifically designed for D2/Retail Parts and allowing for higher multi overclocks especially when at or exceeding 48x. Additionally this option can be used should you not have it enabled and generally cannot boot with a higher multiplier. It is advised to try this option after you have tried all other standard options. This option is not for increasing stability of a OC that can already post and boot into an OS.
> 5.
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> Select Loadline Calibration,Select Ultra High this value will provide overall the closest load level of voltage to the value defined in the bios or AiSuite II
> 6.
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> Enter a value of 350. This is best for sustaining stability at multis of 48x or above. This is key especially for running unrealistic loading testing such as prime or linx.
> 7.
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> 
> Phase Control enabled Extreme this ensures the highest level of current and overall power delivery for the board under heavy loading.
> 8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ensures the VRM managment system is balancing for the most power possible ( current as opposed to temperature ) generally only for 48x multi overclocks or above.
> 9.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Select Manual Voltage - This will allow for a consistent voltage to fed to the CPU to ensure stability.Keep in mind that should you want the most efficient overclock you will want to use offset as this will allow the voltage to track the VRD of the CPU and have the voltage fall and rise depending on the loading state of the CPU.
> 10.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enter a CPU V Core Voltage value of 1.415 or 1.425


*Some interesting information from compudaze about Vcore meassuring when LLC at Ultra High*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13471239*
> Just wanted to share some voltage info on my Asus P8P67 Pro. I set CPU voltage to 1.355V in BIOS and set LLC to Ultra High.
> 
> My voltages:
> 
> Idle CPU-Z: 1.344V, 1.352V, 1.360V
> Idle DMM: 1.348V
> Load CPU-Z: 1.336V, 1.344V, 1.352V
> Load DMM: 1.33V


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13472015*
> Back of board.


*How fast memory/timings do you need? - The Best Memory for Sandy Bridge*










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13499635*
> Generally, people will say that higher mem frequency is better than lower speed and tighter timings.
> 
> I would think that combination would be pretty close to each other anyway. Probably not going to be able to feel a difference for general use.
> 
> Why not benchmark it?
> 
> Others have any feedback on this?
> 
> Here is a test comparing several combinations. Rather old but still...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the differences would be even smaller on higher resolutions, due to the GPU bottlenecking more and more.


----------



## turrican9

***About the P8Z68 and it's two new main features***
*
**Many people wonder what's so special about the new P8Z68 chipset. And if they need it's two new features, or if they just can go for the good old P8P67 chipset. Well, instead of me trying to explain, I will just quote from Guru3D's ASUS P8Z68-V PRO review***

*Full Review: http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-p8z68-v-pro-review/1*

*Intel Smart Response Technology*
Quote:


> A twofold of new features are introduced along with Z68 as well, the first being Intel Smart Response Technology.
> *
> Intel Smart Response Technology*
> 
> A new feature introduced on Z68 is a form of SSD caching. It is now possible to combine a HDD and an SSD with the help of Intel Smart Response Technology, you pair them into a hybrid mode.
> 
> Basically you need to use your HDD as primary operating system storage unit, and then an added SSD will cache the most regular used static data. After a couple of runs the primary storage load will get cached on the SSD and will be loaded from there the next time you access it. And yes, it sounds a lot like Windows PreFetch and SuperBoost.
> 
> Here's how it works, in the BIOS you set the SATA storage configuration to RAID. You Install Windows 7 on the HDD, install the SSD. Then install the Storage controller software from Intel (Intel rapid Storage technology). Once you load up the software you'll notice a new option called 'Enable acceleration', and click it. You may now assign a cache volume size e.g. 20GB. That's pretty much all there is to it. Intel Smart Response Technology will now monitor and learn storage unit behavior and starts caching, allowing you to load from the SSD, not the primary HDD.
> 
> It is clever technology and can speed up the primary and most used data up-to 5x by making use of that SSD cache. We're not sure just yet how popular this feature will be, as you are very tied to that RAID mode setup in BIOS, leaving a lot of generic and your average end-users puzzled. Another problem is that once you have installed Windows 7 in SATA or AHCI mode, there's not way to migrate to that required RAID mode. So this only works with fresh Windows installations.
> 
> Also, and we feel this is a little trivial, once you purchase an SSD we doubt you'd still be going for a SSD/HDD combination anyway. We certainly wouldn't. But it's definitely a very creative idea. Especially if you combine this feature with a small low priced SSD you could benefit from SSD performance increases for very little money.
> 
> Intel's explanation on Smart Response technology:
> 
> Intel Smart Response Technology implements storage I/O caching to provide users with faster response times like system boot and application startup. On a system with traditional HDD, performance of these operations are limited by the HDD, particularly when there may be other I/O intensive background activities running simultaneously like system updates or virus scans. I/O caching accelerates system response by putting frequently used blocks of disk data on an SSD, which provides dramatically faster access to user data than an HDD. The user sees the full capacity of the HDD with the traditional single drive letter (i.e. C:\) with the system responsiveness similar to an SSD.
> 
> As compared to standard HDDs, Intel® Smart Response Technology offers these key features:
> 
> Significantly higher performance
> Lower power consumption
> Increased system responsiveness
> 
> If you like to fool around with the technology yourself, again Intel RAID mode in the BIOS must be enabled in order for Smart Response Technology to function.
> 
> We've made a setup. Now once you already have Windows installed on SATA or in AHCI mode, you can not switch and migrate to Intel RAID mode, you'll end up in a nightmaare of blue screens (BSODs). So to get the feature working this only applies alongside a new Windows Installation, that or you already have RAID mode up and running. The first in the BIOS is that you set your storage mode from IDE or AHCI towards RAID. Now you install Windows. After the installation you install the Intel Rapid Storage Technology software, previously know as the Matrix storage driver. We assume you installed a HDD as primary root drive and an SSD, currently unused but installed.
> 
> *Performance*
> 
> We'll immediately tackle some benchmarks. The PCMark Vantage is the best trace test we can fire off at this setup to measure real world desktop usage of the PC in a highly stressed environment. The series of tests will look at items you normally do with your PC and will try to measure what kind of an effect that has on your user experience by testing eight different segments stressing the storage unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test 1 - Spyware is very common on systems without protection against it, letting Windows Defender scan & protect your system is recommended that is what test 1 does.
> Test 2 - Streaming data from an HDD in games allows for massive worlds and riveting non-stop action.
> Test 3 - Importing digital photos to Windows Photo Gallery is where a high performance HDD shines.
> Test 4 - Starting Windows Vista is a rather demanding task for the storage device, but a fast HDD will notably decrease the loading time.


*LucidLogix Virtu on Z68 Motherboards*
Quote:


> Many Z68 motherboards also will have a power switching feature for graphics cards. Basically with this motherboard you can run both the integrated Intel graphics unit inside the processor, but you can also install a dedicated graphics card. The implementation LucidLogix Virtu switches in-between the two GPUs based on your need.
> 
> So as example, in Desktop mode you'd be utilizing the Intel IGP whereas you startup a Game your Radeon of GeForce graphics card will kick in. The idea here is to use the best of both worlds while consuming as little power as possible. Now we've tried and tried, but this solution does not significantly save on power. Dedicated graphics cards these days have very decent IDLE power states and once you plug in the additional graphics card, disabled or not, it will require a minimum amount of power to keep it alive. There's nothing this feature can do about that.
> 
> In our case we installed a GeForce GTX 580 next to the Sandy Bridge IGP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the IDLE watt we are interested in. As you can see the ASUS P8Z68-V-Pro without a graphics card installed performs brilliant really with 47 Watt in IDLE. Once we install a GeForce GTX 580 we now IDLE at 85 Watt. Then when we install and apply LucidLogix Virtu in desktop mode we IDLE 83 Watt and we can confirm the Intel IGP is at work here. But there's merely a 2 Watt difference in-between the two.
> 
> Here we can see the LucidLogix Virtu application software, it's an atrocious looking software suite to be honest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Virtu Control Panel allows users to toggle the software layer that automatically switches between the integrated and discrete (provided you have a discrete GPU installed). Do note that you have to also have installed Intel HD Graphics drivers before you can install Lucid Virtu. In the Games tab you can add your own list of games such that Virtu will recognize them, but a peek at the settings xml file shows that there are already many supported games. But sure, once again we have some sort of driver dependency and dislike that very much.
> 
> Also to be able to run Virtu, you'll need to follow these requirements:
> 
> The system must fulfill all requirements and follow the setup procedures to construct the Intel Multi-Monitor environment
> The system must utilize Microsoft® Windows 7 operating system (32 or 64bit)
> The system must have at least 2GB of DRAM installed.
> And to fulfill item 2, you will need:
> The Intel driver for HD2000/3000 series integrated graphics must be installed to enable multi-monitor support.
> The iGPU Multi-Monitor support option has to be enabled in BIOS to allow the integrated graphic to remain functional while with add-on graphic cards activated.
> The big plus however that the software can assign applications to a specific GPU. Now with a dedicated GFX card installed you should know that the IGP is pretty much rendered useless, along with some snazzy features. For example with MediaShow Espresso we loose the transcoding feature over the Sandy bridge processor, which sucks as QuickSync will be disabled.
> 
> Now with LucidLogix Virtu active, the IGP for this program is set to Intel and the QuickSync path for MediaShow Espresso is ridiculous fast. LucidLogix Virtu allows us to use it though. Here's what that looks like performance wise.
> 
> Transcode Seconds - Lower = better
> ASUS P8Z68-V-Pro | 2600K + GTX 580 55
> ASUS P8Z68-V-Pro | IGP Quick Sync 16
> In the above test we transcode a 200 MB AVCHD media file to a 1920x1080P MP4 binary (YouTube format). This measurement is in seconds needed for the process, thus lower = better. So while the Processor with a dedicated graphics card installed (GTX 580 CUDA disabled) takes 55 seconds, with LucidLogix Virtu allowing to switch to the IGP, we can do the same job in 16 seconds as QickSync can now kick in.S
> 
> And before you ask sure, the GTX 580 over CUDA would be able to get the job done fast as well, roughly 23 seconds. Overall it is a feature we can appreciate, the software needs to be cleaned up the as the GUI is just horrible looking. Unfortunately once we had Virtu active... we also where confronted with increased instability in Windows 7. So again, there's a lot of work in progress for this feature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *In short:* Virtu allows the systems to simultaneously take full advantage of both the low-power best-in-class media processing features of the 2nd generation Intel Core processor graphics and the 3D gaming performance of add-in cards with graphics processing units (GPUs) from AMD and NVIDIA, with Lucid virtualization it is possible to run one or two discrete GPUs and still utilize the transcoding performance and lower power of the Intel® HD graphics in the 2nd generation Intel Core processor.


*Lucid Virtu working with the ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Motherboard*




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWXqyyl7SSA[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## turrican9

Totally sick temps when using latest IBT. over 10c higher VS Prime95 Blend...


----------



## KingT

WTH???
















CHEERS..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13464292*
> WTH???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


I just wan't a tiny little club for just this very popular mobo. We'll see how this one fares. The other one was trolled away.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13465021*
> I just wan't a tiny little club for just this very popular mobo. We'll see how this one fares. The other one was trolled away.


I hope so man..









C'mon people join!!!!

Great Members make a Great Club!!!

CHEERS..


----------



## turrican9

I would like to make a members list, adding the Pro owners.

Hope for some members here


----------



## Crystal_Castles

Holy bajeezus, how do you get such high gigafloppage? I get like 75 at 5ghz









I wish I had the pro board, I'm actually looking to upgrade to one so I may be joining your tiny club


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crystal_Castles;13468527*
> Holy bajeezus, how do you get such high gigafloppage? I get like 75 at 5ghz


You need the latest IBT or LinX supporting that AVX registers feature in the Sandybridge processors...

Download: http://majorgeeks.com/downloadget.php?id=5987&file=1&evp=22391836c440d046ef31a23d2a4d6047


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crystal_Castles;13468527*
> I wish I had the pro board, I'm actually looking to upgrade to one so I may be joining your tiny club


Well, If you're upgrading I would love to have you as a member in this Club. There are so many people having this motherboard, so I think it is a good idea to start a little Club. Hope for members here...


----------



## turrican9

*munaim1*

Don't you have a Pro? Why not join? You're quite the overclocker


----------



## munaim1

Wow you seriously telling me there aint a club for the Asus P67 mobo yet?







I would think that there would be one already for it, since it's quite popular.

I think you should include all the Asus p67's mobo and not just the PRO.









I'd be happy to join


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13468731*
> Wow you seriously telling me there aint a club for the Asus P67 mobo yet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would think that there would be one already for it, since it's quite popular.
> 
> I think you should include all the Asus p67's mobo and not just the PRO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd be happy to join


Well, I thought I just should go for the Pro, since it is so popular, and so many have this board, and instead go for a 'Tiny' approach. A little kozy club for us Pro owners. Of course, other boards in this series are very similar to the Pro.

I can make member lists with the other motherboards in these series, but use the Pro list as the mainlist. And just keep the club name as is









I'll add you now


----------



## samuel002

im getting this motherboard very soon I hope i can join the club! and you guys can give me a hand of overclocking my 2500k to 4.5ghz hopefully.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13468857*
> im getting this motherboard very soon I hope i can join the club! and you guys can give me a hand of overclocking my 2500k to 4.5ghz hopefully.


Welcome to this club







I'll add you now







I'm sure as we get more members you will get lot's of help in here


----------



## turrican9

For signature... Also posted in the first post of this thread

*Signature. Copy and paste*


PHP:


[URL=http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1012874-tiny-asus-p8p67-pro-owners-corner.html]**The Tiny Asus P8P67 Pro Owners Corner Club**[/URL]


----------



## KingT

And it's on..









CHEERS..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13469037*
> And it's on..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


Know any people with these mobos?







We need members


----------



## Cruiza

Sure, add me, too!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cruiza;13469097*
> Sure, add me, too!


Welcome to the club







Consider yourself added


----------



## compudaze

I have a P8P67 Pro for now =)


----------



## djsi38t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13468553*
> You need the latest IBT or LinX supporting that AVX registers feature in the Sandybridge processors...
> 
> Download: http://majorgeeks.com/downloadget.php?id=5987&file=1&evp=22391836c440d046ef31a23d2a4d6047


You're hitting 80 degrees at 1.38v?That's some pretty high temps.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13469157*
> I have a P8P67 Pro for now =)


Great!







Wanna be a member of this Club?


----------



## j.jacelone

I would love to be added to this club. Sadly I had to RMA my last board due to Hard locking issues that where unresolved. Tried different memory timings/BIOS re-flashing/etc. and nothing worked. I was one of the lucky .01%, I guess, that get a bad board.









ASUS p8p67 Pro
2600k Core i7 Sandy
G.SKILL PIS Series 4GB DDR3 2200 (PC3 17600)
EVGA GTX470 SC
AX850 PSU by Corsair

When I had the machine booted in a freakish, frankinstein science project on my kitchen table and had it stable for about 30min it was Christmas come early and a little piece of heaven all wrapped into one. Will receive my new board soon and look forward to being a part of this tiny little club.

Trolls will be beat back with sticks and large stones!!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djsi38t;13469165*
> You're hitting 80 degrees at 1.38v?That's some pretty high temps.


Hyper 212+ used. Blend custom (6000MB mem used) for 24 hours + gave only 67c max for the two hottest cores..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13469181*
> I would love to be added to this club. Sadly I had to RMA my last board due to Hard locking issues that where unresolved. Tried different memory timings/BIOS re-flashing/etc. and nothing worked. I was one of the lucky .01%, I guess, that get a bad board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS p8p67 Pro
> 2600k Core i7 Sandy
> G.SKILL PIS Series 4GB DDR3 2200 (PC3 17600)
> EVGA GTX470 SC
> AX850 PSU by Corsair
> 
> When I had the machine booted in a freakish, frankinstein science project on my kitchen table and had it stable for about 30min it was Christmas come early and a little piece of heaven all wrapped into one. Will receive my new board soon and look forward to being a part of this tiny little club.
> 
> Trolls will be beat back with sticks and large stones!!


I welcome you to this club then!







Sorry to hear of your troubles with the last board. I'm sure you will be more lucky with your new one


----------



## j.jacelone

Yeah, no worries here at all. Been a long time ASUS buyer and they have always come through in the end. Thanks for the add!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13469209*
> Yeah, no worries here at all. Been a long time ASUS buyer and they have always come through in the end. Thanks for the add!


Asus have very solid boards. My P8P67 Pro have been rock solid. Got it about a week ago. No problems so far. I really like this board and it's bios


----------



## turrican9

*compudaze*

Did you wanna be a member?


----------



## munaim1

I think you should add this to the op. Handy peiece of info from my thread








*IMPORTANT INFO FOR ASUS P67 MOBO USERS*

The member quoted below killed his sb chip through a bug in Asus's bios. It is apparent that switching between profiles mainly offset and manual) the voltage does somewhat get altered. As pointed out, this bug is very dangerous and *I do always recommend checking settings before applying* but nevertheless this bug should be a top priority for asus.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13377004*
> When swapping between profiles the offset voltage changes to .975
> 
> So 1.24v+.975v=*2.215v*
> 
> Happened to catch it last night before I saved and exited my 5ghz +.105 offset, the offset was actually at +.975v.
> Had I not checked...
> 
> So be careful and always double check the offset when switching saved profiles.


Here is the link to the actual thread. LINK


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13469291*
> I think you should add this to the op. Handy peiece of info from my thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *IMPORTANT INFO FOR ASUS P67 MOBO USERS*
> 
> The member quoted below killed his sb chip through a bug in Asus's bios. It is apparent that switching between profiles mainly offset and manual) the voltage does somewhat get altered. As pointed out, this bug is very dangerous and *I do always recommend checking settings before applying* but nevertheless this bug should be a top priority for asus.
> 
> Here is the link to the actual thread. LINK


Thanks for the information! I read about that earlier on. I will add it in the first post !


----------



## turrican9

Anyone else here been as lucky with their RAM as I have? bought 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz 9-9-9-24-1.5v and they will do 1600MHz 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v (stock Volts) totally memtest and Blend stable







Very Happy with these


----------



## munaim1

I think I did ok, my ripjawsx are 1600mhz at 1.5v 7-8-7-24 2T and got to 1866 with 1.6v and 8-9--8-24 1T. Havn't really given that much attention to the RAM as I have with the cpu but this is what I got it to for now I guess.


----------



## compudaze

Just wanted to share some voltage info on my Asus P8P67 Pro. I set CPU voltage to 1.355V in BIOS and set LLC to Ultra High.

My voltages:

Idle CPU-Z: 1.344V, 1.352V, 1.360V
Idle DMM: 1.348V
Load CPU-Z: 1.336V, 1.344V, 1.352V
Load DMM: 1.33V


----------



## fartq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13471239*
> Just wanted to share some voltage info on my Asus P8P67 Pro. I set CPU voltage to 1.355V in BIOS and set LLC to Ultra High.
> 
> My voltages:
> 
> Idle CPU-Z: 1.344V, 1.352V, 1.360V
> Idle DMM: 1.348V
> Load CPU-Z: 1.336V, 1.344V, 1.352V
> Load DMM: 1.33V


are you saying that the super IO readout fluctuates at steady state but your DMM does not?

also, what point do you probe for vcore?


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fartq;13471800*
> are you saying that the super IO readout fluctuates at steady state but your DMM does not?
> 
> also, what point do you probe for vcore?


Back of board.


----------



## fartq

too bad. don't think i'll be able to probe those points without a tech station


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fartq;13472229*
> too bad. don't think i'll be able to probe those points without a tech station


If you have a cutout on your motherboard tray you may still be able to access it. I thought the same too, until I took a look.


----------



## fartq

nope. i have an older LiLi A05B without the cutout.


----------



## Omega329

I have the plain P8P67 (an enthusiast in the making, my first decent build)


----------



## Narsil

Hi All. Great idea for a club. Thanks to OP for doing this, it hopefully will become a great resource for us owners of these boards!

I have a brand spanking new system 75% assembled...just waiting on a handful of final parts to arrive and some time to finish it up. Was considering getting it all built and then _waiting_ (did I really just type that??)







for the next, hopefully PERFECT BIOS update to come. (Been reading w-a-y too much about peeps having problems with the boards.....I need to stop doing that and just dive in !)

So, in other words....... sign me up, if you please !


----------



## fatmario

Cool


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13470723*
> I think I did ok, my ripjawsx are 1600mhz at 1.5v 7-8-7-24 2T and got to 1866 with 1.6v and 8-9--8-24 1T. Havn't really given that much attention to the RAM as I have with the cpu but this is what I got it to for now I guess.


Nice results man








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13471239*
> Just wanted to share some voltage info on my Asus P8P67 Pro. I set CPU voltage to 1.355V in BIOS and set LLC to Ultra High.
> 
> My voltages:
> 
> Idle CPU-Z: 1.344V, 1.352V, 1.360V
> Idle DMM: 1.348V
> Load CPU-Z: 1.336V, 1.344V, 1.352V
> Load DMM: 1.33V


Hey, man







Thanks for sharing that information








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omega329;13472353*
> I have the plain P8P67 (an enthusiast in the making, my first decent build)


Hi, and welcome







I will add a list for all other P8P67 boards in these series, since bios and features are very similar between the boards. So you are welcome to become a member if you want








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Narsil;13473487*
> Hi All. Great idea for a club. Thanks to OP for doing this, it hopefully will become a great resource for us owners of these boards!
> 
> I have a brand spanking new system 75% assembled...just waiting on a handful of final parts to arrive and some time to finish it up. Was considering getting it all built and then _waiting_ (did I really just type that??)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for the next, hopefully PERFECT BIOS update to come. (Been reading w-a-y too much about peeps having problems with the boards.....I need to stop doing that and just dive in !)
> 
> So, in other words....... sign me up, if you please !


Hello, and Welcome to the Club!







Consider yourself a member from now on!


----------



## turrican9

So, how many are using Command Rate 1t for RAM? Feel a difference VS 2t? And do you need more V-core for CPU when at Command Rate 1t?

I use Command Rate 1t, and from the little testing I have done, it seems my i5 2500K needs a tad more V-core when I run Command Rate 1t VS 2t for Prime 95 Blend stability..

Also tried to do some testing overclocking my Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600-9-9-9-24-1.5v to 1866MHz. It needed so relaxed timings that I see no point, since their doing 1600MHz 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v (stock volts).. Even 9-10-9-2t-1.65v was not stable at 1866MHz.


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13476870*
> So, how many are using Command Rate 1t for RAM? Feel a difference VS 2t? And do you need more V-core for CPU when at Command Rate 1t?
> 
> I use Command Rate 1t, and from the little testing I have done, it seems my i5 2500K needs a tad more V-core when I run Command Rate 1t VS 2t for Prime 95 Blend stability..
> 
> Also tried to do some testing overclocking my Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600-9-9-9-24-1.5v to 1866MHz. It needed so relaxed timings that I see no point, since their doing 1600MHz 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v (stock volts).. Even 9-10-9-2t-1.65v was not stable at 1866MHz.


I had to do 9-11-9-27 1T 1.5V @ 1866 on my old vengeance set. Still much faster than 1600 9-9-9 or 1600 8-9-8.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13477079*
> I had to do 9-11-9-27 1T @ 1866 on my old vengeance set. Still at 1.5V though.


And was that at Command Rate 1t?

By the way, wanna be added to the members list?

Edit: 1t noticed


----------



## turrican9

**Updated first page with *ASUS P8P67 series Double POST at Cold Boot Fix* information and some other stuff**

Also, I will add people with other Asus P8P67 motherboards, as all these have very similar bioses..


----------



## Aznboy1993

I'm in bruh~ Loving the board! Got my 2600K to 5GHz quite easy


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


I'm in bruh~ Loving the board! Got my 2600K to 5GHz quite easy










Welcome!







You're added!


----------



## turrican9

I managed a SuperPi 1MB run at 5200MHz with my i5 2500K







Was using 1.6v V-core and LLC at Ultra High. Finished in 7.2xx seconds

5300MHz was a no go, and I don't wanna use more V-core on air


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13489128*
> I managed a SuperPi 1MB run at 5200MHz with my i5 2500K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was using 1.6v V-core and LLC at Ultra High. Finished in 7.2xx seconds
> 
> 5300MHz was a no go, and I don't wanna use more V-core on air


Did u try dropping down to two cores?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13489740*
> Did u try dropping down to two cores?


No, I did not.. They can be disabled in bios, right?


----------



## j.jacelone

Decided I could not wait on Newegg's return policy for my new board so I dropped on by my local Microcenter and picked up my new board.

Will post picks of the frankenstien experiment tonight when I have a stable machine


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13489979*
> Decided I could not wait on Newegg's return policy for my new board so I dropped on by my local Microcenter and picked up my new board.
> 
> Will post picks of the frankenstien experiment tonight when I have a stable machine


What Frankenstein experiment?







Can't wait to see what it is !







And pictures


----------



## grunion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I managed a SuperPi 1MB run at 5200MHz with my i5 2500K







Was using 1.6v V-core and LLC at Ultra High. Finished in 7.2xx seconds

5300MHz was a no go, and I don't wanna use more V-core on air


Man you must have a terrible batch, 1.6v for a pi stable 5.2 run!!!!

I think this is a 5.4 run, don't really remember.
I use a +.190 offset with ULLC for 5.4, gives me ~1.54v, and that's stable for all the major benchmarks.

Attachment 210326


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13490274*
> Man you must have a terrible batch, 1.6v for a pi stable 5.2 run!!!!
> 
> I think this is a 5.4 run, don't really remember.
> I use a +.190 offset with ULLC for 5.4, gives me ~1.54v, and that's stable for all the major benchmarks.
> 
> View attachment 210326


Not quite sure if it needed that much at 5.2GHz. But yes, I have a bad batch as I need about 1.375v LLC Ultra high for a Blend stable 4.5GHz and need about 1.45v V-core for 4.7GHz Blend stable.


----------



## grunion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Not quite sure if it needed that much at 5.2GHz. But yes, I have a bad batch as I need about 1.375v LLC Ultra high for a Blend stable 4.5GHz and need about 1.45v V-core for 4.7GHz.


I just noticed your 4.5ghz post.
Find a reason to rma it









This is what I run 24/7.

Attachment 210327


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grunion*


I just noticed your 4.5ghz post.
Find a reason to rma it









This is what I run 24/7.

Attachment 210327


Really, I'm happy with 4.5GHz for 24/7. And 1.375v is not that bad. highest core when 24 hour Blend was 67c max. And as I've said, I can go 4.7GHz, higher temps though. But would not be so bad for regular use.

I can probably get it stable at 4.8GHz at 1.48v V-core... However, I find that 4.5GHz is enough.

You was more lucky with the batch VS me. Simple as that









BTW: You should join this little tiny club


----------



## turrican9

Any bios settings that could lower V-core some?


----------



## grunion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Any bios settings that could lower V-core some?


You need a template for this thread.

I'll pop in and record my bios settings later tonight.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grunion*


You need a template for this thread.

I'll pop in and record my bios settings later tonight.


That would be great. I have a bit of overclocking suggestions in the second post of this thread. Quoted from XtremeSystems, but would be very nice if you could bring us a nice and simple template also









Looking forward to that.


----------



## turrican9

This Offset Voltage bug, when switching between profiles, this only happens as long as Offset Voltage are used?

I always use a manual Vcore setting. What's the point of using Offset instead of going manually Vcore when overclocking?


----------



## j.jacelone

Yeah, BIOS settings would be killer. I will provide any pertinent information as I work on mine tonight.

I consider all builds outside of the case Frankenstein experiments! Just funny to see all the inner parts splayed out across a table.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j.jacelone*


Yeah, BIOS settings would be killer. I will provide any pertinent information as I work on mine tonight.

I consider all builds outside of the case Frankenstein experiments! Just funny to see all the inner parts splayed out across a table.


Very good overclocking suggestions in my second post. Quoted from XtremeSystems, with pictures and everything. I used it myself when I got my board..


----------



## grunion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


This Offset Voltage bug, when switching between profiles, this only happens as long as Offset Voltage are used?

I always use a manual Vcore setting. What's the point of using Offset instead of going manually Vcore when overclocking?


Yeah I've only encountered the bug using offsets, and only when switching between profiles.
Also noticed that manual vdimm isn't kept on occasion.

I use offset because manual requires more voltage for me, don't know why.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grunion*


I use offset because manual requires more voltage for me, don't know why.


How much more Vcore does manual mode require? And are there others experiencing the same, with the same components.. I will try this..


----------



## grunion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


How much more Vcore does manual mode require? And are there others experiencing the same, with the same components.. I will try this..


IDK really know, once I realized it wasn't working I stopped using it.
But at least 2 more increments.


----------



## j.jacelone

Yeah, I plan on using that second post a lot. Some really great information there. The one thing I am concerned with is getting the memory stable.

Gskill 1.65v with recommended timings of 7-10-10-28. Going to set the timings as 9-9-9-30 to start and may just start with one stick. With what I have read I see memory as the only hang up to getting a stable OC with this board.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grunion*


IDK really know, once I realized it wasn't working I stopped using it.
But at least 2 more increments.


Wow man! Using Offset Vcore instead of manually setting Vcore really helped lowering my Vcore! I'm already running Prime95 Blend at a considerable lower Vcore, already cutting my Core temps by 5c! I will try even lower.

Turns out my i5 2500K wasn't that bad anyway!







Thanks man!

Will post this important information in the overclocking post!


----------



## turrican9

I stumbled across this Vcore Offset bug just now.. But not while switching between profiles. I was stability testing using Blend at 4.7GHz. Had set Offset in bios to +0.030v. Computer BSOD'd, I rebooted and entered bios... Was navigating between the Advanced and regular EFI bios a couple of times, then I entered Advanced again and the overclocker section.. And low and behold, I stumbled across this.. Look at the Offset Voltage!


















*The moment I touched it by adjusting '+'/'-' it jumped right back to ~0.030v range! If I had not discovered that and saved to cmos it would have become 1.272v Vcore + 0.875v Offset = 2.147v Vcore !!! And this would have been even higher in Windows, due to the Vcore will be higher when in Turbo mode! When testing with Offset at 0.030v I was at about 1.38 - 1.39v under load. So it would have been about 1.36v V-core + 0.875v Offset = 2.235v V-core in Windows !!!!

This bug is very dangerous, and as I've said, it did not occur for me because I was switching/loading between profiles!*
*
Asus, fix this ASAP !!*


----------



## grunion

I'm wondering if it really applies that voltage, or if it defaults to the "max" allowed via bios, which is what, .63v?
I know it sets something ridiculous, proc wouldn't have died otherwise.
And when I think about the circumstances leading up to my murdered SB, I was swapping profiles trying to isolate my problem.
It actually posted and got to desktop 2 or 3 times before dieing.

Regardless, very dangerous bug.
I tried submitting a NE review regarding the bug, never got posted.


----------



## Alex132

Sign me up!
Just ordered my P8P67 Pro







!
Can't wait for it to come


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13493336*
> Sign me up!
> Just ordered my P8P67 Pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Can't wait for it to come


Welcome!







Consider yourself a member from now on!


----------



## Alex132

I really hope I can learn to overclock my CPU with this board. I am coming from an all AMD overclocking background, so this will hopefully be a nice change ^-^


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13493581*
> I really hope I can learn to overclock my CPU with this board. I am coming from an all AMD overclocking background, so this will hopefully be a nice change ^-^


Sandy's are really simple to overclock. Probably the easiest there have ever been.

Trying to collect as much information and good members as possible in this tiny club so we can help each other and others from experience.









BTW, my second post in this club really has the most important info for overclocking this board. It even has it step by step showed with bios pictures. this was all Quoted from a great thread at XtremeSystems


----------



## j.jacelone

Forgot the USB cord at work. So no pictures tonight. Will have them Monday. Just booted up the new setup. Will up date this post with progress as I make it.

*Specs:*

Core i7 2600k

GSKILL PIS series 4GB [2x2GB] 2200 (PC3 17600)

EVGA GTX470 SC
*Steps I took to get my system stable:*

Step 1:Set my memory voltage to 1.60v with timings of 9-9-9-30 1333mhz

Step 2: Flashed the 1052 bios from a zip drive with the EZ Flash utility

Results: Hard locked at Windows install screen. Tweaking memory settings...

Step 3: Decreased mem voltage to 1.55 with timings of 9-9-9-30 and increased to 1600mhz

Results: Windows has installed and appears stable. Installing Drivers...

Step 4: Begin the steps to overclock and stress test to find a stable 4.0-4.5ghz that does not bring my core temps to high.

The biggest problem that I think people will have is with high performance memory. If this board is acting up my suggestion would be to test the hell out of your memory settings. I found this to be the wall I kept hitting when trying to get my setup stable.

Works like a charm now!


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13494522*
> Forgot the USB cord at work. So no pictures tonight. Will have them Monday. Just booted up the new setup. Will up date this post with progress as I make it.
> 
> Step 1:
> 
> Currently stock on all settings. Have memory set to 9-9-9-30 @ 1.60v
> 
> Loading windows and will update if the settings allow me to stay stable.


Which mem kit do you have?

Is that at 1333 or 1600?
My RipJaws are doing 1866/8-9-8-24 1T at 1.56v
They'll do 2133/9-10-9-28 1T at 1.62v, haven't ran memtest at 2133 yet.


----------



## j.jacelone

1333mhz... edited with other information I forgot to add


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13494621*
> 1333mhz... edited with other information I forgot to add


Hey, man. How is it going? Problems?

Please fill out your systems specs here


----------



## j.jacelone

Installation log

So far so good. Tweaked the memory and the computer has not hard locked as of yet. Windows installation has finished and am moving to install drivers and start Prime 95 and other tests


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j.jacelone*


Installation log

So far so good. Tweaked the memory and the computer has not hard locked as of yet. Windows installation has finished and am moving to install drivers and start Prime 95 and other tests










Nice









This is your mem? G.SKILL PIS Series 4GB Kit 2000MHz (F3-16000CL6D-4GBPIS) review Looks nice


----------



## j.jacelone

Girlfriend agro







Will return later with updates and more tweaking. So far so stable!!!

Love the quickness of this board/cpu combo very snappy!


----------



## kody7839

First off, cool club. I have always been an ASUS fan and this is a great board.

Secondly, I don't understand advocating the use of offset voltage. I have found that by taking your time and manually adjusting your vcore carefully it runs perfectly fine. What benefit would one see by using the offset voltage?

Just wondering as I'm always willing to try things to make a good thing even better.

Finally, can I join?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kody7839*


First off, cool club. I have always been an ASUS fan and this is a great board.

Secondly, I don't understand advocating the use of offset voltage. I have found that by taking your time and manually adjusting your vcore carefully it runs perfectly fine. What benefit would one see by using the offset voltage?

Just wondering as I'm always willing to try things to make a good thing even better.

Finally, can I join?










Hello, and welcome to the club!







Consider yourself a member now







Yes, this is a great motherboard









A user/moderator, *grunion* here claimed that when using offset instead of manually setting Vcore, his 2500K needed lesser Vcore to be stable, for som strange kind of reason...

I've been testing this today.. At first I thought it actually worked for me too, but now my testing results are giving me doubts.. I too used to set Vcore manually..

This should be tested by each persons system. I will note this in my second post..


----------



## Greatskeem

I would very much like to join this club, I still have the original one with the defect sadly, however no problems from it so far.(except double and triple boot)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greatskeem;13498025*
> I would very much like to join this club, I still have the original one with the defect sadly, however no problems from it so far.(except double and triple boot)


Welcome new member!







Consider yourself added in the members list!









Have you tried the solution for double boot issue found in my first post of this thread?


----------



## {uZa}DOA

Add me to the club.. It's getting bigger everyday!! Just got it put together haven't OCed yet..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{uZa}DOA;13499435*
> Add me to the club.. It's getting bigger everyday!! Just got it put together haven't OCed yet..


Welcome to the club!







Consider yourself a member now!









And congrats with this excellent motherboard


----------



## Alex132

For Intel would it be better if I had my RAM at 1333Mhz 7-7-7-19 or 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13499611*
> For Intel would it be better if I had my RAM at 1333Mhz 7-7-7-19 or 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24?


Generally, people will say that higher mem frequency is better than lower speed and tighter timings.

I would think that combination would be pretty close to each other anyway. Probably not going to be able to feel a difference for general use.

Why not benchmark it?

Others have any feedback on this?

Here is a test comparing several combinations. Rather old but still...


















Keep in mind, the differences would be even smaller on higher resolutions, due to the GPU bottlenecking more and more.


----------



## turrican9

Here is an an even better, later and more detailed test - *The Best Memory for Sandy Bridge*

It actually seems 1333-7-7-7-24 are very equal to 1600-9-9-9-24, with a little performance edge for 1600MHz CAS 9 one..


----------



## Cronos007

Add me to the club


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cronos007;13500723*
> Add me to the club


Welcome to the Tiny club mate!







Consider yourself a member from now on!


----------



## kody7839

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Hello, and welcome to the club!







Consider yourself a member now







Yes, this is a great motherboard









A user/moderator, *grunion* here claimed that when using offset instead of manually setting Vcore, his 2500K needed lesser Vcore to be stable, for som strange kind of reason...

I've been testing this today.. At first I thought it actually worked for me too, but now my testing results are giving me doubts.. I too used to set Vcore manually..

This should be tested by each persons system. I will note this in my second post..


Thanks for the reply.

When the CC is over, maybe I'll give it a try. My chip has been doing pretty well in the OC to vcore ratio, so I've been happy. When moving away from stock settings I've always felt better about telling the equipment what to do instead of hoping it gets it right


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kody7839*


Thanks for the reply.

When the CC is over, maybe I'll give it a try. My chip has been doing pretty well in the OC to vcore ratio, so I've been happy. When moving away from stock settings I've always felt better about telling the equipment what to do instead of hoping it gets it right










i7-2600K 4.9Ghz @ 1.395 24/7 is actually much better results VS my i5 2500K







I have just finished a 12 hour + run of Prime95 Custom (6000MB) at [email protected] ~1.368v (Little up and down) V-core. And mine needs about ~1.42v V-core for 4.7GHz.

So it seems I have a mediocre chip at best. But hey, not everyone can be lucky with their batch







Honestly, I plan to run it at 4.5GHz 24/7 anyway. So it's fine by me. These chips have so much power that you don't need to overclock them at all!







But hey, this is the OCN !


----------



## kody7839

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


i7-2600K 4.9Ghz @ 1.395 24/7 is actually much better results VS my i5 2500K







I have just finished a 12 hour + run of Prime95 Custom (6000MB) at [email protected] ~1.368v (Little up and down) V-core. And mine needs about ~1.42v V-core for 4.7GHz.

So it seems I have a mediocre chip at best. But hey, not everyone can be lucky with their batch







Honestly, I plan to run it at 4.5GHz 24/7 anyway. So it's fine by me. These chips have so much power that you don't need to overclock them at all!







But hey, this is the OCN !

















I agree. These chips don't really need to put the max for great performance, but why not









My second rig is an i5-2500K running 4.5Ghz with 1.335 vcore. I think I did alright as far as batches go on both of them. I picked them up from my local Microcenter about a month apart from each other.

Both rigs were extensively stress tested for stablity and have been running 24/7 folding after I was satisfied with their OC's. I love these chips. You can't beat the performance to cost ratio.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kody7839*


I agree. These chips don't really need to put the max for great performance, but why not









My second rig is an i5-2500K running 4.5Ghz with 1.335 vcore. I think I did alright as far as batches go on both of them. I picked them up from my local Microcenter about a month apart from each other.

Both rigs were extensively stress tested for stablity and have been running 24/7 folding after I was satisfied with their OC's. I love these chips. You can't beat the performance to cost ratio.


Yeah, do you use Prime95 Blend? I like to use Blend custom and select to use 6000MB mem when I use 8GB in my system. I don't really think IBT 2.51/AVX enabled is a good stability test, other than heating the CPU up to insane levels.


----------



## kody7839

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Yeah, do you use Prime95 Blend? I like to use Blend custom and select to use 6000MB mem when I use 8GB in my system. I don't really think IBT 2.51/AVX enabled is a good stability test, other than heating the CPU up to insane levels.


I typically start with a IBT set to max just to see if she'll lock up/BSOD. I agree it's not the overall best stability tester, but it is good for checking if things are even worth moving to the next step.

I then move to a 24 hour Prime95 Blend test with the memory reported by IBT as "Max". If it passes after a day, I then feel pretty comfortable saying it is "stable".

The final and most important test is folding. I fire up my clients and let rip. It is the most stressful thing I do on my computer so if it is able to do that with no problems, I am a happy man.


----------



## turrican9

Here is my 2x80GB Intel X-25 Gen.1 Software Raid 0 array in action. used for installed games. For OS and programs I have a 160GB Intel X-25 Gen.2 (TRIM Enabled) SSD. Also a MaxxMEM Benchmark showing the performance of my Corsair Vengeance 1600-9-9-9-24-1.5v at 1600-8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v.


----------



## j.jacelone

Well I have been able to get the build running with mem frequency and timings of 1600mhz and 9-9-9-24. Voltage is at 1.55. Problem is when I attempt any stress test on the build with stock CPU voltage and frequency it locks up after 3-5 seconds. Prime95 ran for 5 seconds before hard lock and IBT ran for 3 before freeze.

Going to call gskill on monday to see if I can get an answer. This does not seem right. You all have any thoughts? Has been awhile since I have used this software and the game has changed a bit since my KN8-SLi build 3 years ago


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13504315*
> Well I have been able to get the build running with mem frequency and timings of 1600mhz and 9-9-9-24. Problem is when I attempt any stress test on the build with stock CPU voltage and frequency. It locks up after 3-5 seconds. Prime95 ran for 5 seconds before hard lock and IBT ran for 3 before freeze.
> 
> Going to call gskill on monday to see if I can get an answer. This does not seem right. You all have any thoughts? Has been awhile since I have used this software and the game has changed a bit since my KN8-SLi build 3 years ago


Are you running Command Rate at 1t? If so, try 2t. Also, be sure to use the two blue RAM slots when using two RAM sticks (Recommended from Asus themselves).

I too had the Abit KN8 SLI several years ago







I ran 7800GT SLI in it









*BTW: This club just broke 100 posts!!*


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13504353*
> *BTW: This club just broke 100 posts!!*


Yeah and you have made 52 of them..









CHEERS..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13504443*
> Yeah and you have made 52 of them..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


Oh, have I







Didn't know that


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13504443*
> Yeah and you have made 52 of them..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


----------



## Alex132

lol you have made almost half of the posts here


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13504648*
> lol you have made almost half of the posts here


Well, I started this club







But maybe I should stop making posts then?


----------



## Alex132

Lol nah then I would have to take the club over


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13504689*
> Lol nah then I would have to take the club over


Maybe you will get your chance. If people find me unsuited to run a Club, then maybe you will be a strong candidate for taking over


----------



## Alex132

haha I doubt that will happen though


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839;13495309*
> First off, cool club. I have always been an ASUS fan and this is a great board.
> 
> Secondly, I don't understand advocating the use of offset voltage. I have found that by taking your time and manually adjusting your vcore carefully it runs perfectly fine. What benefit would one see by using the offset voltage?
> 
> Just wondering as I'm always willing to try things to make a good thing even better.
> 
> Finally, can I join?


I don't advocate using offset, especially with the bug.
But I use it because it hits my target voltage more closely than manual, go figure.
With manual I have to set 1.45v-h llc to reach stability, droops to 1.39v when stressing.
Offset gives me stability at 1.4v-h llc with droop at 1.384v.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13504315*
> Well I have been able to get the build running with mem frequency and timings of 1600mhz and 9-9-9-24. Voltage is at 1.55. Problem is when I attempt any stress test on the build with stock CPU voltage and frequency it locks up after 3-5 seconds. Prime95 ran for 5 seconds before hard lock and IBT ran for 3 before freeze.
> 
> Going to call gskill on monday to see if I can get an answer. This does not seem right. You all have any thoughts? Has been awhile since I have used this software and the game has changed a bit since my KN8-SLi build 3 years ago


That screams insufficient vcore.

Here are my 4.8 settings, this was 13hrs blend stable, 15hrs memtest stable.

Code:



Code:


Target CPU Turbo-Mode  Speed: 4800MHz
Target DRAM Speed: 1866MHz/8-9-8-24 1T

Ai Overclock Tuner      Manual
BCLK/PEG Frequency      100.0
Turbo Ratio             By All Cores
By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) 48
Internal PLL Overvoltage     Enabled
Memory Frequency    DDR3-1866MHz
EPU Power Saving Mode    Disabled

DIGI+ VRM

Load-Line Calibaration     High
VRM Spread Spectrum     Enabled
Phase Control     Optimized
Duty Control    T.Probe
CPU Current Capability    120%

CPU Voltage     1.248  Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign      +
CPU Offset Voltage    0.070
DRAM Voltage    1.56250
VCCSA Voltage   .90
VCCIO Voltage  1.0
CPU PLL Voltage    1.71250
PCH Voltage    1.0
CPU Spread Spectrum    Auto

All are listed as manual requested voltages.
1502 bios btw.


----------



## turrican9

*grunion*

The combination of all those settings was needed for stability? Or are some of them just adjusted without knowing if they was needed?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13504993*
> *grunion*
> 
> The combination of all those settings was needed for stability? Or are some of them just adjusted without knowing if they was needed?


PLL voltage needed to be > 1.7v for stability at 4.8.

All other settings were adjusted down from what auto would set, nothing was increased from what auto would set.
Some settings could probably be lowered more, but I didn't want to lose anymore folding time.


----------



## samuel002

I got my 2500k and my asus pro today!! now i need to overclock the cpu to 4.5ghz


----------



## zedway

hitting 4.8 right now... not getting double posting but i cannot cleanly boot back from sleep mode without going through one post. Any suggestions?

Would love to join in on the club.


----------



## Falkentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13504946*
> 
> That screams insufficient vcore.


He said he's at stock cpu voltage and frequency. That means 3.3-3.4 ghz, so 4.8 ghz wouldn't be applicable here.

Sounds like he's having trouble with the RAM speed/settings not being stable.


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zedway;13508753*
> hitting 4.8 right now... not getting double posting but i cannot cleanly boot back from sleep mode without going through one post. Any suggestions?
> 
> Would love to join in on the club.


Do you have PLL overvoltage enabled? If so, that could be the cause.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zedway;13508753*
> hitting 4.8 right now... not getting double posting but i cannot cleanly boot back from sleep mode without going through one post. Any suggestions?
> 
> Would love to join in on the club.


Welcome to the club!









Try to do what *compudaze* says, to remedy your problem with hibernate


----------



## Alex132

4 more days till I get my motherboard. Longest 4 days of my life xD


----------



## zedway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13508935*
> Do you have PLL overvoltage enabled? If so, that could be the cause.


I disabled PLL and Was even running prime95 a little cooler. Tried to reboot and and I keep getting BSOD. Do I need to change vcore? I tried 1.42, then 1.425, then 1.43 all with the same effect of BSOD.

Thoughts?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zedway;13511606*
> I disabled PLL and Was even running prime95 a little cooler. Tried to reboot and and I keep getting BSOD. Do I need to change vcore? I tried 1.42, then 1.425, then 1.43 all with the same effect of BSOD.
> 
> Thoughts?


You're trying for 4.8GHz? My i5 2500K needs at least 1.48v Vcore and LLC at Ultra high for 4.8GHz.

Why not try 4.7GHz instead? Every Sandybridge will differ in overclocking. Also, you have a i7 2600K with hyper threading, making it even more difficult to overclock.

Have you ruled out your mem as a problem?


----------



## zedway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13511628*
> You're trying for 4.8GHz? My i5 2500K needs at least 1.48v Vcore and LLC at Ultra high for 4.8GHz.
> 
> Why not try 4.7GHz instead? Every Sandybridge will differ in overclocking. Also, you have a i7 2600K with hyper threading, making it even more difficult to overclock.
> 
> Have you ruled out your mem as a problem?


Well I bumped it up to 1.45 and not getting BSOD. But still getting the sleep issue. How would I test for memory issues?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zedway;13512842*
> Well I bumped it up to 1.45 and not getting BSOD. But still getting the sleep issue. How would I test for memory issues?


If you wanna test for mem stability, you should just clock your Sandybridge to stock.

Then run memtest for Windows. Like this. Only, since you use 4GB you should input 750MB in each Window. Download here http://hcidesign.com/memtest/










Then you run Prime 95 Blend for at least 12 hours..


----------



## zedway

Ok will do! When running prime95 I am hitting 62C temps is this ok for 12 hr test?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13490454*
> You need a template for this thread.
> 
> I'll pop in and record my bios settings later tonight.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falkentyne;13508808*
> He said he's at stock cpu voltage and frequency. That means 3.3-3.4 ghz, so 4.8 ghz wouldn't be applicable here.
> 
> Sounds like he's having trouble with the RAM speed/settings not being stable.


That was a follow up to an earlier post, not directed at him.

Still sounds like a vcore issue.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zedway;13512959*
> Ok will do! When running prime95 I am hitting 62C temps is this ok for 12 hr test?


62C are very nice temps


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13504946*
> Here are my 4.8 settings, this was 13hrs blend stable, 15hrs memtest stable.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Target CPU Turbo-Mode  Speed: 4800MHz
> Target DRAM Speed: 1866MHz/8-9-8-24 1T
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner      Manual
> BCLK/PEG Frequency      100.0
> Turbo Ratio             By All Cores
> By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) 48
> Internal PLL Overvoltage     Enabled
> Memory Frequency    DDR3-1866MHz
> EPU Power Saving Mode    Disabled
> 
> DIGI+ VRM
> 
> Load-Line Calibaration     High
> VRM Spread Spectrum     Enabled
> Phase Control     Optimized
> Duty Control    T.Probe
> CPU Current Capability    120%
> 
> CPU Voltage     1.248  Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign      +
> CPU Offset Voltage    0.070
> DRAM Voltage    1.56250
> VCCSA Voltage   .90
> VCCIO Voltage  1.0
> CPU PLL Voltage    1.71250
> PCH Voltage    1.0
> CPU Spread Spectrum    Auto
> 
> All are listed as manual requested voltages.
> 1502 bios btw.


Trying many of your settings here now. At 4.8GHz. Have disabled PLL Overvoltage and are undervolting CPU PLL Voltage. I use + 0.1000v Offset. Will try to lower it a bit if stable.

btw: Getting better temps after I disabled PLL overvoltage and even better temps when I also undervolted the CPU PLL Voltage.

btw2: Actually seems you were right about using Offset. At least in combination with these other settings. I'm running Blend Right now at 4.8GHz, Offset at + 0.9000. Gives about ~1.45v Vcore. Previous attempts, even 1.47v Vcore sat manually was not stable. And that fluctuated much more. All the way up to 1.49v and also very low Voltages. With the Offset it is much more stable, and closer to 1.45v Vcore. Give or take a little....

Temps for two hottest cores are 74c Max when Blend hit those 8KB FFT's... This with a Hyper 212+...

btw3: +0.09000v Offset gave BSOD after about one our of Blend. So back to + 0.1000v Offset...


----------



## turrican9

*ASUS P8Z68-V PRO Z68 Sandy Bridge Motherboard Review*

_*Pros*

- Great board layout, plenty of space between PCI-E slots
- Auto overclocking takes a click of a button and provides a 1000Mhz boost
- Manual overclocking was very easy
- Hassle free sub-zero overclocking
- Lots of power saving options
- Top of the line NIC with Intel Gigabit LAN controller
- 4 USB 3.0 ports and 4 SATA6G ports
- Ai Tuner II is a very handy tool
- Attractive and user-friendly UEFI BIOS
- Power and Reset buttons present on the PCB for ease of use with test bench

*Cons*

- $40 more than a comparable P67 board for limited additional features
- Had some stability issues with OC Tuner and a 2500K
- Minor BIOS bug causing a CPU fan warning_

Pretty useless compared to the regular Asus P8P67 Pro. Much more expensive and a few new bugs.


----------



## Aznboy1993

Hey grunion...what voltage are you running your 2500K at 4.8GHz? It takes my 1.36V to run my 2600K at 4.8GHz with HT On. Does this seem like a good voltage?


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993;13518099*
> Hey grunion...what voltage are you running your 2500K at 4.8GHz? It takes my 1.36V to run my 2600K at 4.8GHz with HT On. Does this seem like a good voltage?


Yes, that's pretty good. Exactly what my current 2600K needs. Previous 2600K needed 1.32V for 4.8GHz and one before that needed 1.385V for 4.8GHz.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13518661*
> Yes, that's pretty good. Exactly what my current 2600K needs. Previous 2600K needed 1.32V for 4.8GHz and one before that needed 1.385V for 4.8GHz.


You lucky guys... My i5 2500K seems to need about 1.47v Vcore for 4.8GHz


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13518690*
> You lucky guys... My i5 2500K seems to need about 1.47v Vcore for 4.8GHz


Ouch that sucks. I would sell that and buy another in a heartbeat.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13518735*
> Ouch that sucks. I would sell that and buy another in a heartbeat.


Naah... I will probably keep it at 4.5GHz for 24/7 use anyway, like most others. It can manage this at ~1.36v. Give or take.

4.7GHz is also possible with good temps.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13518690*
> You lucky guys... My i5 2500K seems to need about 1.47v Vcore for 4.8GHz


that is quite a bit of voltage for 4.8, I'm using the same for 5.1









whats your temps at 1.47v?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13518811*
> that is quite a bit of voltage for 4.8, I'm using the same for 5.1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whats your temps at 1.47v?


My hottest cores max out at about 78c when running Blend


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13518819*
> My hottest cores max out at about 78c when running Blend


ouch









I guess the only way is to just try with another chip. sorry bud.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13518862*
> ouch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the only way is to just try with another chip. sorry bud.


As I've said, I'm gonna keep it at 4.5GHz for 24/7 anyway. Temps on that speed are about 65c for hottest cores. So no worry.


----------



## oventek

Is 1205 still the best bios?

Can I join the club?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oventek;13518946*
> Is 1205 still the best bios?
> 
> Can I join the club?


1502 is the latest bios. Download link on first page. I use it. Stable and no problems.

Welcome to the Club !


----------



## Aznboy1993

Yeah turrican9 that sucks







My chip is ok I guess..It can do:

4.2GHz HT On 1.2V
4.4GHz HT On 1.275V
4.6GHz 1.325V
4.8GHz 1.36V
5.0GHz 1.44V

I haven't tried any higher because the Corsair H50 blows...hard. Once I get out of school this summer before college I am finally finishing Project Swifty out with liquid cooling (XSPC Rasa RX360) and then I will find the max multi of this chip. For now I'm running OS X at 4.4GHz with the voltage above to get a 70C max temp when folding all 8 threads with fans on lowest settings (my rig is virtually silent)


----------



## samuel002

what is the pci simple communications controllor? how do i install it or how do i get rig of it...


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13520601*
> what is the pci simple communications controllor? how do i install it or how do i get rig of it...


Install "Intel Management Engine Interface" from the drivers CD.


----------



## samuel002

Oh, dont they have it on asus website?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13520860*
> Oh, dont they have it on asus website?


They have it on their website, yes.


----------



## turrican9

Club members and others,

Why not download PCMark 7, if you haven't already, bench it and post results here









Download link: http://downloads.guru3d.com/downloadget.php?id=2723&file=4&evp=fab0e8e4352e797852dc9e5b18a900bc


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13523976*
> Club members and others,
> 
> Why not download PCMark 7, if you haven't already, bench it and post results here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Download link: http://downloads.guru3d.com/downloadget.php?id=2723&file=4&evp=fab0e8e4352e797852dc9e5b18a900bc


Will do after I finish up a bigadv (folding)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839;13524109*
> Will do after I finish up a bigadv (folding)


Looking forward to that







I see you're running two SSD's







Raid 0?

Here are some score for comparison:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13511311*
> *My Sandybridge [email protected], 8GB Corsair Vengeance 1600-8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v, Intel SSD X25 160GB Gen.2 and Gigabyte GTX [email protected]/2000
> *
> *PCMark 7 Score - 5453
> http://3dmark.com/pcm7/29960*
> 
> *My [email protected], 6GB Crucial Ballistix (2x2 +2x1GB) [email protected] 5-5-5-15, 1.94v, Intel SSD X-25 80GB Gen.2 and XFX GTX 260 Core [email protected]/1404/2430*
> 
> *PCMark 7 Score - 3999
> http://3dmark.com/pcm7/32425*
> 
> *KingT's primary system: [email protected], Kingston HyperX 2x2GB [email protected] 5-5-5-15, 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB [7200.12] @ RAID 0 and Zotac GTX480 @ 850MHz/1025MHz w/1075mV*
> 
> *PCMark 7 Score - 3229
> http://3dmark.com/pcm7/30887
> *


----------



## j.jacelone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13512983*
> Still sounds like a vcore issue.


I have tried ~20 different memory Frequency/voltage/timing combinations and all the "stable" combinations result in the same thing. I am able to access windows but as soon as I start doing anything past some misc driver installation the computer restarts or hard locks.

IE: I tried installing a game and it gets about 2% into the installation and reboots.

I am fairly certain the memory I have is the issue and is not the board. As I have even used your 4.8 setup and it still fails.

When memtest boot disk restarts, or freezes, with even the most basic of memory settings I think it is a memory issue.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13525030*
> I have tried ~20 different memory Frequency/voltage/timing combinations and all the "stable" combinations result in the same thing. I am able to access windows but as soon as I start doing anything past some misc driver installation the computer restarts or hard locks.
> 
> IE: I tried installing a game and it gets about 2% into the installation and reboots.
> 
> I am fairly certain the memory I have is the issue and is not the board. As I have even used your 4.8 setup and it still fails.
> 
> When memtest boot disk restarts, or freezes, with even the most basic of memory settings I think it is a memory issue.


Have you tried running memtest 4.0 for Windows memtest for DOS and Blend with your CPU at stock?


----------



## j.jacelone

I have tried memtest bootdisk for windows with everything at stock/auto and it locked up. Have not tried blend.


----------



## j.jacelone

Ill do some more thorough testing this evening so I can provide a detailed summary of what I actually did. One sentence answers with out Frequencies, timings, etc. does us no good when trying to troubleshoot a problem


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13525162*
> I have tried memtest bootdisk for windows with everything at stock/auto and it locked up. Have not tried blend.


What is your stock speed for your mem? Also, You have selected Command Rate 2t instead of 1t? When at Auto it selects 1t in many cases. My mem work fine with 1t, but this will vary...


----------



## Cole S

Sign me up! Love my board, except for a strange boot problem i haven't had time to try to fix

Sent from my DROIDX


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cole S;13525404*
> Sign me up! Love my board, except for a strange boot problem i haven't had time to try to fix
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX


Welcome to the Club mate !!









Check first post in this club for a couple of suggestions for boot issues


----------



## Cole S

Thanks! Unfortunately that's not the boot problem i've having though. However I'm pretty sure mine is just something dumb i'll be able to figure out after school today. For some reason when I power on my comp it doesn't recognize my HDD and i have to manually boot from it in BIOS every time.

Also, awesone find with those OCing guides/tips in the first post man that's really good info. I'm gonna see if I can get my 2500k up to 4.8 sometime tonight. What kind of OC's are you guys running and what voltages are you at? And are you doing manual voltage or using the offset route?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cole S;13526339*
> Thanks! Unfortunately that's not the boot problem i've having though. However I'm pretty sure mine is just something dumb i'll be able to figure out after school today. For some reason when I power on my comp it doesn't recognize my HDD and i have to manually boot from it in BIOS every time.
> 
> Also, awesone find with those OCing guides/tips in the first post man that's really good info. I'm gonna see if I can get my 2500k up to 4.8 sometime tonight. What kind of OC's are you guys running and what voltages are you at? And are you doing manual voltage or using the offset route?


I'm at 4.5GHz and ~1.368v Vcore. Have a mediocre i5 2500K







. Hope you are more lucky than me. Anyway, most people seems to run 4.5GHz for 24/7 usage. The Offset route seems to be the best way to go on this motherboard. For some reason it don't fluctuate as much as manual Vcore setting in this board. So will be more stable at a couple of notches lower Vcore VS manual mode.

Beware of the Offset bug though. Also posted in the first post.

Good luck !


----------



## Cole S

Ahh, well that's not too bad of an OC. I'm hoping I'll be able to get a pretty good OC out of this guy because my temps are awesome at 4.3 stock voltage right now, and all of this with a H50! haha. Alright it looks like I'll be trying out the offset route since it has a benefit, i was just making sure there was a benefit over the manual way because the offset bug scares me. I often do my OC testing late at night after a long day of school and I feel like I'm going to forget to check it and fry my board haha.


----------



## j.jacelone

Update on my testing of the G.Skill 4GB PIS 2200

Settings:

cmos have been reset back to defaults and the memory is as follows:

Frequency: 1333mhz
Timings (The only stable one out of the ~20 I have tried): 10-10-10-28-2
Voltage: 1.50

Tests that have been run:

Memtest 4.0 for Windows: 21.5% Coverage after ~20min of run time 0 Errors

Prime95: Ran first at highest test of the three selection when initially opening the program. The one that murders/assaults the RAM. Crashed after 15 seconds.

Switched to the lowest setting that barely does any RAM stressing and Prime is running fine.

Talked with a buddy of mine about the results of the test and both of us are pointing to the RAM as being the issue. Going to contact G.Skill for replacement/new kit.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13526612*
> Update on my testing of the G.Skill 4GB PIS 2200
> 
> Settings:
> 
> cmos have been reset back to defaults and the memory is as follows:
> 
> Frequency: 1333mhz
> Timings (The only stable one out of the ~20 I have tried): 10-10-10-28-2
> Voltage: 1.50
> 
> Tests that have been run:
> 
> Memtest 4.0 for Windows: 21.5% Coverage after ~20min of run time 0 Errors
> 
> Prime95: Ran first at highest test of the three selection when initially opening the program. The one that murders/assaults the RAM. Crashed after 15 seconds.
> 
> Switched to the lowest setting that barely does any RAM stressing and Prime is running fine.
> 
> Talked with a buddy of mine about the results of the test and both of us are pointing to the RAM as being the issue. Going to contact G.Skill for replacement/new kit.


Then clearly you have issues with your RAM. No doubt. Yeah, contact G.skill. This is unacceptable.


----------



## j.jacelone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13526629*
> Then clearly you have issues with your RAM. No doubt. Yeah, contact G.skill. This is unacceptable.


Wanted to thank you and Grunion for all your help!! Thanks for bringing me up to speed on current programs and what to test when OCing new boards!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13526725*
> Wanted to thank you and Grunion for all your help!! Thanks for bringing me up to speed on current programs and what to test when OCing new boards!


You're welcome mate !







A club is only as good as it's club members. And I'm sure, as time goes by that you will be a big contribution for this Tiny Club !









Good luck with the G.Skill replacement!


----------



## WvoulfeXX

I am thinking of getting this board with a 2600k and some good sticks of ram(suggestions on size speed and brand would be helpful). Doing research now prob 3 to 5 months from now will be the purchase.


----------



## Alex132

Good brand of RAM; Can't go wrong with Dominators CL8/9 1866Mhz kit. 2x2Gb. If you can afford them, which I can't being the cheap South African I am.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WvoulfeXX;13527200*
> I am thinking of getting this board with a 2600k and some good sticks of ram(suggestions on size speed and brand would be helpful). Doing research now prob 3 to 5 months from now will be the purchase.


Hello









These are among the more popular ones... G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM

The CAS 9 variant would also be fine. As there is little difference in real world performance.

I bought Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600 9-9-9-24-1.5v kit. These are also a safe bet, as long as you're not using a cooler that extends over the RAM slots..


----------



## Alex132

I am wondering if it is worth using an elastic band or something to get Push/Pull.
I used to just have the 2nd fan sitting on top of the TRUE120 and letting reaction force keep it up. But having it side-ways means I need to improv something >_>


----------



## WvoulfeXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13527259*
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are among the more popular ones... G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM
> 
> The CAS 9 variant would also be fine. As there is little difference in real world performance.
> 
> I bought Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600 9-9-9-24-1.5v kit. These are also a safe bet, as long as you're not using a cooler that extends over the RAM slots..


Thanks for the info and my cooling will be either the Hyper212+ or the H70.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13527291*
> I am wondering if it is worth using an elastic band or something to get Push/Pull.
> I used to just have the 2nd fan sitting on top of the TRUE120 and letting reaction force keep it up. But having it side-ways means I need to improv something >_>


I have the Thermalright Ultra Extreme for my Q9650 setup. I've tried Push and pull setup. Gave almost no temp decrease. Even when highly overclocked.

I also tried Push and Pull on my CM Hyper 212+, used for my 2500K setup. Gave 1 Celcius lower temps on the hottest cores. For the cost of much more noise.

In my opinion, totally not worth it.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WvoulfeXX;13527316*
> Thanks for the info and my cooling will be either the Hyper212+ or the H70.


Then you will get no problem with The Vengeance kit.


----------



## WvoulfeXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13527291*
> I am wondering if it is worth using an elastic band or something to get Push/Pull.
> I used to just have the 2nd fan sitting on top of the TRUE120 and letting reaction force keep it up. But having it side-ways means I need to improv something >_>


I seen a few rigs(old scool) that way. It did work for them. Also seen paper clips used.


----------



## WvoulfeXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13527343*
> Then you will get no problem with The Vengeance kit.


I will add them to the build list







tHanks for the help!


----------



## Alex132

My 800D collects a lot of dust when not used lol! Been without a PC for about a week now;









Can't wait for this board haha! Only gonna have 1 or 2 days at the stock of 3.3Ghz (stock cooler) Then I get the 1156 bracket! I know this might be a long shot, but anyone know why there are 2 brackets for the TRUE for 1156? a normal one and Rev. B


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13527430*
> My 800D collects a lot of dust when not used lol! Been without a PC for about a week now;
> 
> Can't wait for this board haha! Only gonna have 1 or 2 days at the stock of 3.3Ghz (stock cooler) Then I get the 1156 bracket! I know this might be a long shot, but anyone know why there are 2 brackets for the TRUE for 1156? a normal one and Rev. B


Looks like your case just screams for a new motherboard









Look forward to seeing pictures of that one with the Asus P8P67 Pro installed


----------



## samuel002

Turrican9 can you please give me your settings on 4.5ghz so i have a good idea where to start.


----------



## Antolen

I am in, i exchanged my UD4 to PRO after the recall. Much happier now!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13527925*
> Turrican9 can you please give me your settings on 4.5ghz so i have a good idea where to start.


I'll be back with bios pictures for my 4.5GHz settings









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antolen;13527966*
> I am in, i exchanged my UD4 to PRO after the recall. Much happier now!


Welcome to the club !







Glad you're happy with this Asus board!


----------



## pjBSOD

I'd make love to this board if I could. I love it.


----------



## turrican9

*samuel002*

Here you go. It may be you have to enable Internal PLL Overvoltage at higher multipliers.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *E-Peen;13528135*
> I'd make love to this board if I could. I love it.

















Glad you're happy with it









Maybe you should join this Club then !


----------



## pjBSOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13528248*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you're happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you should join this Club then !


Okay


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *E-Peen;13528308*
> Okay


Then Welcome to the Tiny Club then, you Asus P8P67 Pro lover !


----------



## corky dorkelson

I just bought one of these boards and a 2500k. Going to be putting it in a new Bitfenix Shinobi. Can't wait!!!!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corky dorkelson;13528340*
> I just bought one of these boards and a 2500k. Going to be putting it in a new Bitfenix Shinobi. Can't wait!!!!


Congrats !









I'm sure it would look nice in this


----------



## samuel002

Thanks turrican9 maybe you could help me with overclock later. I don't know how to overclock at all what do i need to disable(intel features etc)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13528694*
> Thanks turrican9 maybe you could help me with overclock later.


Yeah, sure.. You found my bios pictures, posted here?


----------



## turrican9

Updated the Club Signature. I thought this one looks much better. And matches the 'Tiny' name a little better.








*The Tiny Asus P8P67 Pro Owners Corner Club*









Just copy and paste for signature.


PHP:


[IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL=http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1012874-tiny-asus-p8p67-pro-owners-corner.html]The Tiny Asus P8P67 Pro Owners Corner Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]


----------



## samuel002

what do i need to disable in bios or i just copy ur settings turrican?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13529173*
> what do i need to disable in bios or i just copy ur settings turrican?


Try to use my excact settings and see how it goes


----------



## Cole S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *E-Peen;13528135*
> I'd make love to this board if I could. I love it.


High five to that sir! Not only is it great as a mobo but the aesthetics are much much better than some others in the same price range


----------



## EdSpfld73

Hi there , I was wondering if i could join your club?


----------



## cssaddictm4

Just got this board, a 2600k, and 12GB...Can't wait to get this up and running.


----------



## CyberShadow

Whats up fellas, I pretty much a P8P67 owner myself but with all these RMS's and troubleshooting issues Im starting to back away... You guys who have had luck on it maybe you can shed some light my way. Mine would be the EVO though.

Ended up going with the EVO. Will see how it turns out.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdSpfld73;13531655*
> Hi there , I was wondering if i could join your club?


Welcome new member !


----------



## EdSpfld73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13535689*
> Welcome new member !


Thank you , nice to find a club that's involved with the Asus P8P67


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdSpfld73;13536148*
> Thank you , nice to find a club that's involved with the Asus P8P67


You're welcome! You've been added to the list!









Was about time somebody made a club for this very popular mobo









Enjoy your rig!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberShadow;13532451*
> Whats up fellas, I pretty much a P8P67 owner myself but with all these RMS's and troubleshooting issues Im starting to back away... You guys who have had luck on it maybe you can shed some light my way. Mine would be the EVO though.
> 
> Ended up going with the EVO. Will see how it turns out.


I do not have the impression that there have been more problems with Asus' P67 line VS other manufacturers... My Asus P8P67 Pro B3 have been flawless. Not a single problem.

I was also considering the EVO, but went with the Pro in the end. There were very little price difference though.

First I was thinking I would add a second members list for the ones having other Asus P8P67 versions than the Pro, because they all have very similar bioses.. But I have not got a single members request yet, from people owning other mobos in these series.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssaddictm4;13531672*
> Just got this board, a 2600k, and 12GB...Can't wait to get this up and running.


Congrats!







Why not join the club?


----------



## Alex132

My motherboard arrived, got it installed and what not








Goddamn Intel Stock HSF's are BAD!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13537970*
> My motherboard arrived, got it installed and what not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Goddamn Intel Stock HSF's are BAD!


Congratz !!







Yeah, those stock heatsinks are the same tiny size as the ones they began to deliver with 45nm 775's. They are barely enough for stock speed.

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your rig !


----------



## Alex132

Idling at 49-62'c is not right lol, whats a good stock VID for these chips/batch number/CPU creation origin (Malaysia/Costa Rica/USA etc)?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13538098*
> Idling at 49-62'c is not right lol, whats a good stock VID for these chips/batch number/CPU creation origin (Malaysia/Costa Rica/USA etc)?


I think below 1.2v VID is fairly decent. Mine is 1.2510v VID. A bad one.


----------



## Alex132

I got 1.1xx








Not sure the exact right now


----------



## donrapello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13538148*
> I got 1.1024
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


A great one indeed if true! Where/how did you check it?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donrapello;13538294*
> A great one indeed if true! Where/how did you check it?


The most correct way to check this would be to run at stock, without the Turbo, and look in CPU-Z when under load??

If so, I will re-check mine..


----------



## donrapello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13538329*
> The most correct way to check this would be to run at stock, without the Turbo, and look in CPU-Z when under load??
> 
> If so, I will re-check mine..


should work fine. i've checked mine from bios.


----------



## Alex132

It's fluctuating a bit , when I have fully installed windows I will run a bit of prime95 to check
Yeah I do know about speedstep







but wanna get a accurate VID


----------



## CyberShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13536617*
> I do not have the impression that there have been more problems with Asus' P67 line VS other manufacturers... My Asus P8P67 Pro B3 have been flawless. Not a single problem.
> 
> I was also considering the EVO, but went with the Pro in the end. There were very little price difference though.
> 
> First I was thinking I would add a second members list for the ones having other Asus P8P67 versions than the Pro, because they all have very similar bioses.. But I have not got a single members request yet, from people owning other mobos in these series.
> 
> Congrats!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not join the club?


Well my Evo should be here in a couple of days!







As for the request, another list for other versions would be nice. I can be the first one.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberShadow;13539073*
> Well my Evo should be here in a couple of days!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the request, another list for other versions would be nice. I can be the first one.


Then I will add you in another list, also stating what motherboard you have !







Welcome to the club mate !


----------



## turrican9

*CyberShadow*

Added alternative signature for people who do not have the Pro, but other motherboards in Asus' P8P67 Series.. Also posted in the first post of this club.

Quote:


> *Alternative Signature for other motherboards in the P8P67 Series*
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL=http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1012874-tiny-asus-p8p67-pro-owners-corner.html]The Tiny Asus P8P67 Series Owners Corner Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]
> 
> *Signature demo -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tiny Asus P8P67 Series Owners Corner Club*


----------



## CyberShadow

^Thanks! Added!


----------



## samuel002

does anyone have this "issue" when you power ur computer it shows the logo screen then it detects hardrive then it goes back to the asus logo screen does anyone have that or its only me?


----------



## Cole S

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


does anyone have this "issue" when you power ur computer it shows the logo screen then it detects hardrive then it goes back to the asus logo screen does anyone have that or its only me?


Not sure if its exactly the problem you're having or not but in the first post there's some info about a coldboot problem. Read through that and see if it helps you out at all

Sent from my DROIDX


----------



## EdSpfld73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


does anyone have this "issue" when you power ur computer it shows the logo screen then it detects hardrive then it goes back to the asus logo screen does anyone have that or its only me?


I allso have that.It still boots and runs just fine.


----------



## samuel002

is that a issue for us or its a normal thing?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


is that a issue for us or its a normal thing?


Have you disabled the Marvell controller from bios?

You should connect your harddrives to the light blue connectors. Then disable the Marvell controller (The two Navy blue connectors closest to the RAM slots). I have not had them enabled yet, so I'm not sure if that could be your issue?

You could also try to disable the JMicron controller from bios. These are the two E-sata ports on the back of the board. I've also disabled these.


----------



## samuel002

Oh, i left my bios default and i am using the light blue connectors for my ssd and my harddrive/dvd burner


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


Oh, i left my bios default and i am using the light blue connectors for my ssd and my harddrive/dvd burner


Well, then try to disable both the Marvell and the JMicron controller and see if your issue goes away...


----------



## samuel002

yeah that's what i did the issue went away. but do i need to disable both of them?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


yeah that's what i did the issue went away. but do i need to disable both of them?


Try one at a time. And you'll see which of them causes the problem. Simple as that


----------



## munaim1

sorry for the off topic but hey turrican I just installed my first ssd









thought i'd personally let you know


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


sorry for the off topic but hey turrican I just installed my first ssd









thought i'd personally let you know










Congrats man!







Have you installed Windows on it? How does it feel?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Congrats man!







Have you installed Windows on it? How does it feel?










lol in the process of windows updates. Just ran into a little problem though







seems that for some reason I'm not given the choice as to which os I want to load. just created a thread about that.


----------



## turrican9

Updated my two signature alternatives again. Changes are that I use big capitals for the Asus and Pro naming. Also I have removed the http:// link and use [THREAD] instead. This saves space in our signature fields...

Quote:



*Signature. Copy and paste*

Code:


Code:


[CODE]
:clock:[B][THREAD=1012874]The Tiny ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Corner Club[/THREAD][/B]:clock:

[/CODE]
*Signature Demo -*







*The Tiny ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Corner Club*









*Alternative Signature for other motherboards in the P8P67 Series*

Code:


Code:


[CODE]
:clock:[B][THREAD=1012874]The Tiny ASUS P8P67 Series Owners Corner Club[/THREAD][/B]:clock:

[/CODE]
*Signature demo -*







*The Tiny ASUS P8P67 Series Owners Corner Club*


----------



## SpammisT

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1731538

oh hey guys, add me.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpammisT*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1731538

oh hey guys, add me.










Welcome to the Club !







So you have the Vanilla P8P67? Happy with it??


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


lol in the process of windows updates. Just ran into a little problem though







seems that for some reason I'm not given the choice as to which os I want to load. just created a thread about that.


The SSD should act like any Harddrive partition in those matters. I don't know which Operating systems you are trying to Dual boot. But I know this, If you install an older OS after you installed, let's say Windows 7, your boot menu will dissapear. Way to fix this is to use your Windows 7 DVD and choose to repair startup/boot. Then the menu will appear again.

I've stopped using Dual boot. I've stopped using several operating systems at all. Windows 7 suits me perfect. But the last time I did it, I installed them on two different drives. That way, their boot files didn't get mixed on the same drive. And I used bios boot menu to select which drive/OS to boot from.

This is a bit Off-topic


----------



## kody7839

New sig looks good...updated.


----------



## samuel002

Yup, I have to disable both of them in order to boot straight to windows screen. since i got rid of that problem time to overclock to 4.5ghz


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839;13544274*
> New sig looks good...updated.


Glad you like it !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13546979*
> Yup, I have to disable both of them in order to boot straight to windows screen. since i got rid of that problem time to overclock to 4.5ghz


Yeah, for most people both the Marvell and JMicron controllers are useless, and can be disabled to shorten the boot time.
Good luck with that Overclocking !


----------



## samuel002

is my temps ok? at idie its at 36,38,34,38? with a corsair h50 p/p with MX-3 thermal paste?


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


is my temps ok? at idie its at 36,38,34,38? with a corsair h50 p/p with MX-3 thermal paste?


What are your ambient temps?

What fans are you using?

What speed are your fans running at? 100%? PWM controlled?

More importantly, what are your load temps when running Prime95 small FFT for 15m? That's what really matters...


----------



## samuel002

I'm using 2 CM R4 Fans let me try running prime95.. i'll test it now.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


I'm using 2 CM R4 Fans let me try running prime95.. i'll test it now.


Those are okay temps, but I'm not impressed of your so called watercooling. For comparison, my two hottest cores tops out at about 70c (Prime95 Blend for 12 hours +) when CPU at 4.5GHz and ~1.368v Vcore. And this with a CM Hyper 212+.

Your temps are fine though. I was just not impressed by that H50.


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


I'm using 2 CM R4 Fans let me try running prime95.. i'll test it now.
http://i52.tinypic.com/2vdnxp3.jpg


Hard to deduct anything from that due to there still being many unanswered variables. A screenshot while still running prime would be more helpful. Also, whats the current temp in the room?

Without any more details, I would _guess_ that your board is overvolting way too much for the speed the CPU is running causing temps to be much higher than they should be. Keep in mind though that ~60C is still far below anything I would worry about.


----------



## samuel002

Not too sure about the temps in my room I had my window opened abit so it should be lower. let me try to re-paste maybe it would help. let me try to run prime95 again this time i'll do it for another 15 mins then i'll post another screenshot running with prime.


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


Not too sure about the temps in my room I had my window opened abit so it should be lower. let me try to re-paste maybe it would help.


Sorry, I probably edited my post after you responded. Please take another look and see what you think.


----------



## kody7839

Unfortunately the R4's static pressure make them less than desirable for use on a radiator.

But are those reading with your 4.5 OC or stock? You said you were going to start OCing and I'm not sure if read that right or missed something.

If they are with your OC, they look alright. If they are for your stock setting, they are a little on the high side.


----------



## samuel002

stock...for now i didn't start overclocking since i wanted to check if my temp were good enough to do so. here's a screen while prime95 running for 25 mins.


----------



## lun471k

hey, add me to the list (P8P67 Deluxe FTW!), thanks!!!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lun471k*


hey, add me to the list (P8P67 Deluxe FTW!), thanks!!!


Welcome new member !







First Deluxe Owner in this Club !







You'll be added in a moment !


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


stock...for now i didn't start overclocking since i wanted to check if my temp were good enough to do so. here's a screen while prime95 running for 25 mins.

http://i53.tinypic.com/2cwwruu.jpg


Temps are pretty high for that, but what was the CPU Voltage while prime 95 was running? You had CPU-Z running in the previous screenshot, but not this one.

It still looks as if your board is using a much higher than needed voltage for 3.7ghz. Stock, the board should only allow 3.4GHz when all 4 cores are in use. Did you change any bios settings? You should have the option set to change each multiplier individually and all 4 should be on auto. It would appear the setting being used is just to have one turbo multi and it's set to auto (37x). The auto voltage for the board is using way too much for 37x than needed so you temps appear to be high when running stock, but in fact you're not really running "stock." You can try resetting the BIOS to defaults in order to get real "stock" readings at 3.4GHz.


----------



## samuel002

its running default right now the only things i changed is disabling controllors and turning on XMP


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13553670*
> its running default right now the only things i changed is disabling controllors and turning on XMP


Why not try the settings I gave you for my 4.5GHz overclock, and start with that? Also show CPU-Z when under load please..


----------



## samuel002

Alright i'll try that... right now.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13553736*
> Alright i'll try that... right now.


Something is wrong with your cooling man!

You can probably lower your offset voltage a couple of notches. But those temps are waaay higher VS my temps, even when I'm at higher Vcores. And I'm using a CM 212+!

You should try to reseat your cooler or something!


----------



## samuel002

alright.. i'll do right now...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;13553894*
> alright.. i'll do right now...


Well, I'll see you tomorrow. Going to bed here.

Hope other members here can give you some guideance in the meantime..

Good luck with that reseating !


----------



## grunion

My feedback finally went up on NE.
Quote:


> Manufacturer Response:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Thank you for the feedback. I shall forward this information to HQ and we will try to replicate and fix ASAP
> 
> Regards


Hope we see some info soon.


----------



## Bloodfire

Just saying I'm also an owner


----------



## turrican9

*samuel002*

Here are my results from running Prime95 Small FFT's for about 10 minutes. This is at 4.5GHz and ~1.368v Vcore. Using my Hyper 212+ at stock.

Remember, for stability testing you should use Prime95 Blend and not Small FFT's. Small FFT's is fine for checking temps pretty fast though.


----------



## Sagman76

Hi Everyone
I would like to join the club. I have the entry P8P67 and its my first build coming from Dell p4 478!!
I am a noob but read a lot and have some knowledeg but reading some of the posts probably out my depth. Managed to overclock to 4500mhz but not changed RAM timings or offsets or anything like that. kept it simple for now. My main problem is not waking from sleep for some reason and others seem to have this problem. Hopefully I can use some of the knowledge here to become more educated

Intel i5 2500k | Asus P8P67 | Corsair Vengeance 4gb DDR3 1600 | 1TB Samsung F3 | XFX XXX6950 1GB| Fractal Design R3 | Antec True Power New 650W |Windows 7 Ultimate x64 | Dell U2311h and take my system to another level.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sagman76;13565165*
> Hi Everyone
> I would like to join the club. I have the entry P8P67 and its my first build coming from Dell p4 478!!
> I am a noob but read a lot and have some knowledeg but reading some of the posts probably out my depth. Managed to overclock to 4500mhz but not changed RAM timings or offsets or anything like that. kept it simple for now. My main problem is not waking from sleep for some reason and others seem to have this problem. Hopefully I can use some of the knowledge here to become more educated
> 
> Intel i5 2500k | Asus P8P67 | Corsair Vengeance 4gb DDR3 1600 | 1TB Samsung F3 | XFX XXX6950 1GB| Fractal Design R3 | Antec True Power New 650W |Windows 7 Ultimate x64 | Dell U2311h and take my system to another level.


Hello and welcome new member !







I'll add you right away !







Congrats with your upgrade !









Try disabling CPU PLL Overvoltage option if you have it enabled, to remedy the wakeup problem

Copy and paste this for signature You should also add system details here.


PHP:


[IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]The Tiny ASUS P8P67 Series Owners Corner Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]


----------



## Alex132

Quick post before bed:

4.5Ghz:









5Ghz 1.464v:


----------



## turrican9

*thealex132*

Nice results !









Are you Blend stable at 5GHz?


----------



## Sagman76

Turrican 9
I have set xmp in the bios disabled pll and it seems I have sleep mode. Hooray Many thanks. I hope I can contribute to the thread with some testing and I will post some numbers. I may need a helping hand here and there if thats ok? Exiting times.....


----------



## Sagman76

oh it seems I have two signatures woops I will try and fix that.apologies


----------



## j.jacelone

Good news from G.Skill! They are going to accept and RMA of my RAM and replace them with the Ripjaws! I will update you all when I get the new sticks with Prime and other tests.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sagman76;13565609*
> Turrican 9
> I have set xmp in the bios disabled pll and it seems I have sleep mode. Hooray Many thanks. I hope I can contribute to the thread with some testing and I will post some numbers. I may need a helping hand here and there if thats ok? Exiting times.....


Glad it worked out for you !







You are free to ask any questions here









I'm sure you will contribute to this club as time goes by !









You should add this so people can see what club you are a member of








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13565238*
> Copy and paste this for signature
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]The Tiny ASUS P8P67 Series Owners Corner Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13565731*
> Good news from G.Skill! They are going to accept and RMA of my RAM and replace them with the Ripjaws! I will update you all when I get the new sticks with Prime and other tests.


Glad to hear that !







Looking forward to seeing your results when your Ripjaws arrive !


----------



## DailyShot

Could I Join Your Club ? Brought a Picture .


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DailyShot;13565965*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could I Join Your Club ? Brought a Picture .


Wow! Nice GTX 570 SLI setup you have there !









Consider yourself a member, ASUS P8P67 Pro owner !







Welcome to the Club !


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.jacelone;13565731*
> Good news from G.Skill! They are going to accept and RMA of my RAM and replace them with the Ripjaws! I will update you all when I get the new sticks with Prime and other tests.


Very cool. That should clear up the problems you were having. Keep everyone posted.

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sagman76;13565609*
> Turrican 9
> I have set xmp in the bios disabled pll and it seems I have sleep mode. Hooray Many thanks. I hope I can contribute to the thread with some testing and I will post some numbers. I may need a helping hand here and there if thats ok? Exiting times.....


I have found that using the xmp profile helps cure a lot of stabilty issues to at least give you a good starting point. If you decided to change the settings later you at least have those to fall back on when troubleshooting.

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk


----------



## MadFerIt

Hey guys just built my first system in nearly a decade with the P8P67 Pro as my motherboard. Hoping to utilize your overclocking advice as I'm fairly clueless at the moment. For now I'm using the auto overclock feature which has set the CPU to 4.4ghz.

Also, I've read on this thread that disabling the PLL voltage setting may fix my multi-POST issue, as it's driving me nuts (originally was suspecting my PSU). Going to be attempting the fix soon.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadFerIt;13572547*
> Hey guys just built my first system in nearly a decade with the P8P67 Pro as my motherboard. Hoping to utilize your overclocking advice as I'm fairly clueless at the moment. For now I'm using the auto overclock feature which has set the CPU to 4.4ghz.
> 
> Also, I've read on this thread that disabling the PLL voltage setting may fix my multi-POST issue, as it's driving me nuts (originally was suspecting my PSU). Going to be attempting the fix soon.


Hi ! For overclocking, you should take a look at the second post of this thread. There are also a step by step guide using bios pictures.

I would buy a better CPU cooler though, as that stock cooler will not suffice.

Also, for boot issues, please try to disable both the Marvell and JMicron controllers from bios. If you're not using them that is.


----------



## turrican9

My temps at 4.5GHz and CM Hyper 212 + after a 15 hour + Blend, Custom 6000MB run.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13565556*
> *thealex132*
> 
> Nice results !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you Blend stable at 5GHz?


for 2 Hours 30 mins so far, gotta turn speedstep off otherwise I sometimes get a BSOD when idling (speedstep would lower the vcore before the Mhz too soon or something resulting in 0x0124 BSOD)
I'm sure I can go higher, But don't really want to for now


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13572987*
> for 2 Hours 30 mins so far, gotta turn speedstep off otherwise I sometimes get a BSOD when idling (speedstep would lower the vcore before the Mhz too soon or something resulting in 0x0124 BSOD)
> I'm sure I can go higher, But don't really want to for now


If so, you've got a lucky chip







Mine will probably need ~1.48v Vcore for 4.8GHz









Anyway, 4.5GHz is a very nice 24/7 setting. Many people use 4.5GHz for 24/7. These CPU's are blazing fast.


----------



## ForNever

Been about 3 days with this new board & 2500k. (upgrade from M4A79EVO/Phen2 965) Love this mobo so far. I had some kinks to work out, which this thread was _extremely_ helpful. Much thanks to all who contributed to it.


----------



## Alex132

Anyone know how to counter the rather large voltage variation at load?
I have my LLC at ultra high and I go from well 1.36v to 1.48v in games. Mostly sticks around 1.45v-1.47v in Prime95 though


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13573062*
> Anyone know how to counter the rather large voltage variation at load?
> I have my LLC at ultra high and I go from well 1.36v to 1.48v in games. Mostly sticks around 1.45v-1.47v in Prime95 though


Do you use manual or Offset Vcore setting?

Mine stays in the ~1.368v range, give or take a little, even with light load. Only when it clocks down to 1.6GHz in idle it goes to about ~1.024v Vcore. I use Offset Vcore


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever;13573036*
> Been about 3 days with this new board & 2500k. (upgrade from M4A79EVO/Phen2 965) Love this mobo so far. I had some kinks to work out, which this thread was _extremely_ helpful. Much thanks to all who contributed to it.


Hello !







Glad to hear this Club has been helpful to you !









Why not join us?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13573077*
> Do you use manual or Offset Vcore setting?
> 
> Mine stays in the ~1.368v range, give or take a little, even with light load. Only when it clocks down to 1.6GHz in idle it goes to about ~1.024v Vcore. I use Offset Vcore


I do too, but if I set mine to +0.110 it gets me 1.464v instead of 1.2+0.110 I don't really understand why that happens, and why the voltage is so wobbly


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13573154*
> I do too, but if I set mine to +0.110 it gets me 1.464v instead of 1.2+0.110 I don't really understand why that happens, and why the voltage is so wobbly


That is because when in bios, your CPU is not fully overclocked. And it shows 0.1v Vcore lesser because of this.

Also, If you're having problems with Offset, why not try setting Vcore manually?


----------



## Alex132

Manually set the voltage to 1.455v and now that's the SpeedStep voltage, the load voltage dropping slightly to 1.440v, but 100% stable SO far on Prime95. Good voltage for 5Ghz? I will most probably be using this permanently, and the temps are averaging high 60's.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13573226*
> Manually set the voltage to 1.455v and now that's the SpeedStep voltage, the load voltage dropping slightly to 1.440v, but 100% stable SO far on Prime95. Good voltage for 5Ghz? I will most probably be using this permanently, and the temps are averaging high 60's.


As I've said, clearly you got a good chip. ~1.45v Vcore for 5GHz is good in my book!


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13573238*
> As I've said, clearly you got a good chip. ~1.45v Vcore for 5GHz is good in my book!


Just worried if this will degrade the chip fastish? The 5Ghz overclock, but more so the 1.45-1.46v


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13573293*
> Just worried if this will degrade the chip fastish? The 5Ghz overclock, but more so the 1.45-1.46v


Most people say 1.45v Vcore is okay. I remember reading Intel themselves saying 1.47v Vcore were safe for these... ?

Anyway, no one knows the long term effect yet.

But as I've also said, these chips are so blazing fast that you can just aswell use 4.5GHz for 24/7 and 5GHz for benchmarking


----------



## Alex132

Intel says 1.52v max Vcore. I have found 1.440v for 5Ghz is stable in Prime95 blend for 2 Hours, so gonna keep it like that


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13574061*
> Intel says 1.52v max Vcore. I have found 1.440v for 5Ghz is stable in Prime95 blend for 2 Hours, so gonna keep it like that


It was 1.52v yes. I had forgotten... To me it sounds rather high. When you compare it to Intel's max recommended Voltage for 45nm 775 CPU's. But hey, If Intel say 1.52v Vcore is okay, then it's okay.

One thing I will investigate more, is if CPU needs a little lower Vcore when RAM is at Command Rate 2T VS 1T. I remember that when I first got this setup that Blend ran easier on lower Vcores if command rate was at 2t...


----------



## Alex132

2T vs 1T don't you see some RAM performance loss? I need all the performance I can get out of these sticks XD!
7-7-7-20 was my AMD overclock, but that was limited by the AMD IMC. These sticks are 9-9-9-24 @1.65v, got them going 7-7-7-20 @ 1.5v not bad if you ask me








Still would prefer 1600Mhz or even 1866Mhz RAM over these though.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13574339*
> 2T vs 1T don't you see some RAM performance loss? I need all the performance I can get out of these sticks XD!
> 7-7-7-20 was my AMD overclock, but that was limited by the AMD IMC. These sticks are 9-9-9-24 @1.65v, got them going 7-7-7-20 @ 1.5v not bad if you ask me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still would prefer 1600Mhz or even 1866Mhz RAM over these though.


I keep mine at 1600-8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v.

By the way, are you a girl? Why aren't you wearing this clubs signature? Should I try to make a alternative girly signature that fits you ?


----------



## Alex132

LOL, no I am not! I just like the lesbian idea of Applejack/Rainbow Dash (My Little Pony: Friendship is Magic) and thought the avatar was cute








Its a show that is not liked by many, but others adore it. Really hard to explain why but just something different and the fact that the show is done well, barely cliched at all and has a good plot/good character depth etc, it just feels unique and very well done. As well as being cute









I am reorganizing my sig as we speak btw


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


LOL, no I am not! I just like the lesbian idea of Applejack/Rainbow Dash (My Little Pony: Friendship is Magic) and thought the avatar was cute








Its a show that is not liked by many, but others adore it. Really hard to explain why but just something different and the fact that the show is done well, barely cliched at all and has a good plot/good character depth etc, it just feels unique and very well done. As well as being cute









I am reorganizing my sig as we speak btw


Lol! Cool.

Sig looks cool now







. Actually fits rather nicely to your theme


----------



## donrapello

@Turrican9

dude, i got "my" new 2500k today. It has a bit lower VID than old one. 1.265v vs. 1.235v.

Also i stole those vengeance CL9 1600mhz sticks from my friend.. i've been running prime95 blend for 1.5hrs. 4.5Ghz @ 1.332v + Ram is running CL8 @ 1.5v now


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *donrapello*


@Turrican9

dude, i got "my" new 2500k today. It has a bit lower VID than old one. 1.265v vs. 1.235v.

Also i stole those vengeance CL9 1600mhz sticks from my friend.. i've been running prime95 blend for 1.5hrs. 4.5Ghz @ 1.332v + Ram is running CL8 @ 1.5v now










Nice !







Then you were as lucky as me with those Vengeance








Are you running Command Rate 1t also?

Seems like your i5 2500K is a tad better than mine


----------



## donrapello

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Nice !







Then you were as lucky as me with those Vengeance







Are you running Command Rate 1t also?

Seems like your i5 2500K is a tad better than mine


Yeap, 8-8-8-24 1T. Seem fine since it's already ran 2 hours now with blend.
This cpu seems to get a bit hotter than my earlier one.. or might be the ambient temp difference also. Running around 61-62c with this low vcore as my previous had same temps with 1.4v.

That thermal paste might be also crap.. stole it also from my friend as it came with his Scythe Mugen 2. I seem to have lost all my TIM somewhere..
but whatever.. i've been thinking of getting push/pull fans for my rad anyway.

I gotta try to push this chip harder soon.. currently just interested on pushing those Vengeance sticks.


----------



## Aznboy1993

So I'm hating my Corsair H50 right now. Temps SUCK hard. Using push/pull with some CM fans (and boy are they loud) I load at 70C per core (give or take) when folding bigadv. So I am looking for a new cooler. What do you guys recommend?


----------



## Alex132

RX240 or RX360 XSPC RASA Kit


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


So I'm hating my Corsair H50 right now. Temps SUCK hard. Using push/pull with some CM fans (and boy are they loud) I load at 70C per core (give or take) when folding bigadv. So I am looking for a new cooler. What do you guys recommend?


Glad I went with a 'simple' CM Hyper 212+... Seen several people have probems with their H50's and bad temps...


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


So I'm hating my Corsair H50 right now. Temps SUCK hard. Using push/pull with some CM fans (and boy are they loud) I load at 70C per core (give or take) when folding bigadv. So I am looking for a new cooler. What do you guys recommend?


It's going to get hot running at 1.44V. Have you tried going back to the Corsair 2000RPM fan's the H70 came with? They're not the quietest, but they worked the best out of what I've tested.

If you want better, you need to go full-on water cooling. An RX240 or RX360 rad kit with lower RPM fans would be pretty quiet and give you better temps.

I went to a Silver Arrow air cooler that's quiet as can be and cools about the same as my old H70.

EDIT: Oops, I though you said H70. For quiet and cool, Silver Arrow or D14 are king of air cooling and better than the H50.


----------



## Alex132

H50's tend to not scale as well as normal water


----------



## Butter on Toast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> Go ask in my club what people feel about the Pro


hi


----------



## turrican9

Please tell this guy that the ASUS P8P67 PRO B3 is a great board, and a better option than the Sabertooth and ASRock offerings


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13575536*
> It's going to get hot running at 1.44V. Have you tried going back to the Corsair 2000RPM fan's the H70 came with? They're not the quietest, but they worked the best out of what I've tested.


x2

At that voltage it is going to run hot unless you ditch the hybrid and go with a full loop.

If you go with a high end air cooler you won't see as dramatic of a drop in temps, but it will be A LOT quieter.

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk


----------



## turrican9

*ACHILEE5*

Why not join the club?







You have a Pro?


----------



## Alex132




----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13577755*
> *ACHILEE5*
> 
> Why not join the club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have a Pro?


*Yeah, I'll join*








And thanks for invite








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13577183*
> Please tell this guy that the ASUS P8P67 PRO B3 is a great board, and a better option than the Sabertooth and ASRock offerings


I'd say it's probably the most popular P67 motherboard on here








And unless you need an armored motherboard, I'd get the ASUS P8P67 Pro


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13577852*
> *Yeah, I'll join*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks for invite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd say it's probably the most popular P67 motherboard on here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And unless you need an armored motherboard, I'd get the ASUS P8P67 Pro


Welcome to the club mate !







I've added you









Also, the Pro has more features VS the Sabertooth, has more CPU phases and are cheaper. That shield on the Sabertooth actually traps heat and dust


----------



## turrican9

*thealex132*










I am jealous at your CPU







And I'm sure many others are too


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13577880*
> Welcome to the club mate !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've added you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the Pro has more features VS the Sabertooth, has more CPU phases and are cheaper. That shield on the Sabertooth actually traps heat and dust


qft


----------



## turrican9

*ACHILEE5*

You are welcome to post those pictures of your system in this thread. So everybody can see how cool a system with a ASUS P8P67 PRO can look !


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13577880*
> Welcome to the club mate !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've added you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the Pro has more features VS the Sabertooth, has more CPU phases and are cheaper. That shield on the Sabertooth actually traps heat and dust


Wow, slow your roll there bud.

The Sabertooth P67 shield neither traps dust nor traps heat. After I used it for several months, I took the shield off to inspect it and there was zero dust underneath. The temps were actually lower with the shield on and even lower when a 50mm assist fan was used.

Yes, for some reason they dialed back some of the features on the Sabertooth, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

Also, I had zero problems running my Core i7 2600K at 5.63GHz for benching on my Sabertooth P67 on it's "measly 8-phase power design." It actually showed a more constant power delivery than my 12-phase P8P67 Pro.

Would I recommend the Sabertooth P67 over the P8P67 Pro? Probably not, especially considering the price difference. The Saberooth appeals to a certain crowd and you either like it or you don't. I think need a real good reason to choose the Sabertooth over the Pro... Or simply like the way it looks =)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13578454*
> Wow, slow your roll there bud.
> 
> The Sabertooth P67 shield neither traps dust nor traps heat. After I used it for several months, I took the shield off to inspect it and there was zero dust underneath. The temps were actually lower with the shield on and even lower when a 50mm assist fan was used.
> 
> Yes, for some reason they dialed back some of the features on the Sabertooth, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.
> 
> Also, I had zero problems running my Core i7 2600K at 5.63GHz for benching on my Sabertooth P67 on it's "measly 8-phase VRM design." It actually showed a more constant power delivery than my 12-phase P8P67 Pro.
> 
> Would I recommend the Sabertooth P67 over the P8P67 Pro? Probably not, especially considering the price difference. You would need a real good reason to choose the Sabertooth over the Pro... Or simply like the way it looks =)


+ rep for enlightening us !







I didn't know this ! Thank you !


----------



## Butter on Toast

At my store, both boards are worth the same. So if price doesnt matter, which board do I pick?


----------



## fartq

sabertooth. the vrm section is much beefier and components are overall much more serious. the plastic shroud is thermally dumb but it increases the rigidity of the board so it's not all bad. unfortunately, however, they're both 4-layer designs, so the deluxe may be the better buy if it's available.


----------



## Butter on Toast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fartq*


sabertooth. the vrm section is much beefier and components are overall much more serious. the plastic shroud is thermally dumb but it increases the rigidity of the board so it's not all bad. unfortunately, however, they're both 4-layer designs, so the deluxe may be the better buy if it's available.


4-layer?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Butter on Toast*


At my store, both boards are worth the same. So if price doesnt matter, which board do I pick?


According to *compudaze* Sabertooth is a very solid one, but he recommended the PRO...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *compudaze*


Wow, slow your roll there bud.

The Sabertooth P67 shield neither traps dust nor traps heat. After I used it for several months, I took the shield off to inspect it and there was zero dust underneath. The temps were actually lower with the shield on and even lower when a 50mm assist fan was used.

Yes, for some reason they dialed back some of the features on the Sabertooth, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

Also, I had zero problems running my Core i7 2600K at 5.63GHz for benching on my Sabertooth P67 on it's "measly 8-phase power design." It actually showed a more constant power delivery than my 12-phase P8P67 Pro.

Would I recommend the Sabertooth P67 over the P8P67 Pro? Probably not, especially considering the price difference. The Saberooth appeals to a certain crowd and you either like it or you don't. I think need a real good reason to choose the Sabertooth over the Pro... Or simply like the way it looks =)


----------



## Alex132

I would choose the P8P67 Pro over the Sabertooth, the Sabertooth is basically a normal P8P67 with motherboard shroud and colour redesign. The Pro has more VRM's and IMO looks better









I was wondering, what do you think would be the next best upgrade? RAM? XSPC RS360 kit? Or save up for the next best single GPU?
I am leaning towards the RS360 kit, mainly for looks, but I heard underwater (and ergo lower temps) you can get overclocks at lower volts than under air


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


I would choose the P8P67 Pro over the Sabertooth, the Sabertooth is basically a normal P8P67 with motherboard shroud and colour redesign. The Pro has more VRM's and IMO looks better









I was wondering, what do you think would be the next best upgrade? RAM? XSPC RS360 kit? Or save up for the next best single GPU?
I am leaning towards the RS360 kit, mainly for looks, but I heard underwater (and ergo lower temps) you can get overclocks at lower volts than under air


No, no ! Your best upgrade would be an SSD! No doubt !


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


No, no ! Your best upgrade would be an SSD! No doubt !


I can finally agree with you there bro







im loving my ssd so far









doesn't seem to be doing that bad.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


I can finally agree with you there bro







im loving my ssd so far









doesn't seem to be doing that bad.




















While those are nice results, I feel that no benchmark can really show how the SSD user Experience is when compared with a harddrive.

They cannot be compared. Simple as that. SSD and Harddrives are on two different planets. Has nothing in common.


----------



## turrican9

Here is my two Intel X-25 80GB Gen.1 in Raid0. Used as game partition. I use a single Intel X-25 160GB Gen.2 for OS and programs.


----------



## Alex132

Hmmm I really wouldn't like to RE-install all of Windows updates etc, but I guess >_>
80Gb SSD boot drive would be nice


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Hmmm I really wouldn't like to RE-install all of Windows updates etc, but I guess >_>
80Gb SSD boot drive would be nice










You just use Acronis True Image and image your partition over to the SSD







Would take under 10 minutes


----------



## turrican9

*compudaze*

I would appreciate if you became a member of this club. I'm sure your knowledge and experience would greatly benefit this Club !


----------



## Alex132

Ooooh just saw some DDR3 2400-CL9 4Gb RAM kit would love to see what 2133 CL8/CL7 can do on this motherboard/cpu


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Here is my two Intel X-25 80GB Gen.1 in Raid0. Used as game partition. I use a single Intel X-25 160GB Gen.2 for OS and programs.


Hello mate








Have you tried SteamMover yet








Link in my Sig, *SSD owners, "Must have App!" *

It's well worth a look








Just install games to a HDD. Then move them on and off the SSD as often as you like!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Hello mate








Have you tried SteamMover yet








Link in my Sig, *SSD owners, "Must have App!" *

It's well worth a look








Just install games to a HDD. Then move them on and off the SSD as often as you like!


Nice App !







I just have a few games installed on my SSD's anyhow.

But again, great app and nice info







rep +


----------



## turrican9

Here is a picture of my interior. Terrible picture. Taken with a mobile phone.


----------



## Alex132




----------



## turrican9

*thealex132*

My God what a nice system you have !









That Corsair 800D makes your cabel management really nice. I have almost no place to hide my cables in my CM Storm Scout Case...

btw: Added a link to these pictures behind your nick in the members list


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*thealex132*

My God what a nice system you have !









That Corsair 800D makes your cabel management really nice. I have almost no place to hide my cables in my CM Storm Scout Case...

btw: Added a link to these pictures behind you nick in the members list










Thanks ^-^
Still gotta sleeve the cables, got the sleeving just haven't got around to doing it XD


----------



## Thogar

Hey guys, got a question about testing voltages








Right now I'm at 4.7Ghz @ 1.375v as i just jumped on it the day i got it, but I want to go to 4.8Ghz now with the lowest possible voltage.
Do I lower the voltages until I hit a BSOD, go back to the last voltage that didn't BSOD, and then Prime95 it?
Also how long at the least could i Prime95, because I only did it for about an hour on my current OC and i've been playing games and it's on 24/7 without any BSOD or crash what so ever.
What is a good voltage to start off at and go lower from for 4.8Ghz on a 2600k, I know each chip is different but a rough estimate would be nice








or i might even just try to find the lowest voltage i can get with my current OC


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thogar*


Hey guys, got a question about testing voltages








Right now I'm at 4.7Ghz @ 1.375v as i just jumped on it the day i got it, but I want to go to 4.8Ghz now with the lowest possible voltage.
Do I lower the voltages until I hit a BSOD, and then go back to the last voltage that didn't BSOD, and them Prime95 it?
Also how long at the least could i Prime95, because I only did it for about an hour on my current OC and i've been playing games and it's on 24/7 without any BSOD or crash what so ever.
What is a good voltage to start off at and go lower from for 4.8Ghz on a 2600k, I know each chip is different but a rough estimate would be nice








or i might even just try to find the lowest voltage i can get with my current OC










Are you Blend stable? You should use Prime95 Blend for stability testing. Try 4.8GHz and 1.4v. There is no saying how much your CPU will need for that speed. They differ alot.

Try 1.4v and run Blend for a couple of hours, if good, try to lower it one or two notches again. And do the same.

I've found that even after 3 - 4 hours running Blend, my computer can crash and reboot. So the final stability test should go for at least 8 - 12 hours.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thogar*


Hey guys, got a question about testing voltages








Right now I'm at 4.7Ghz @ 1.375v as i just jumped on it the day i got it, but I want to go to 4.8Ghz now with the lowest possible voltage.
Do I lower the voltages until I hit a BSOD, and then go back to the last voltage that didn't BSOD, and them Prime95 it?
Also how long at the least could i Prime95, because I only did it for about an hour on my current OC and i've been playing games and it's on 24/7 without any BSOD or crash what so ever.
What is a good voltage to start off at and go lower from for 4.8Ghz on a 2600k, I know each chip is different but a rough estimate would be nice








or i might even just try to find the lowest voltage i can get with my current OC










I basically went with roughly 1.48v for 5Ghz because thats what the Auto gave me for 4.5Ghz, Then I slowly decreased it by 0.005 until I couldnt boot into Windows (BSOD). Found the lowest voltage I could boot into Windows, ran Prime95 Blend test until it BSOD'ed. Then I raised the voltage by 0.005 until it wouldn't BSOD in Prime95 for more than 2 hours.

I would try 1.4v for 4.8Ghz and then do the above steps.


----------



## Thogar

I blended, but like i said only for an hour lol, depending on the temps i get i may just stay at 4.7Ghz but i'll just have to blend away and see








Also i should mention I'm not using offset mode, is it 1.24v + the offset i set?


----------



## Alex132

I cant say, my offset was so random I think bugged


----------



## fartq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Butter on Toast*


4-layer?


both the sabertooth and pro have 4-layer pcbs. this can cause a reduction in signal quality = stability, particularly at higher clocks. imo, between the pro, sabertooth and deluxe, these are what i think are the major feature points:

pro: 4-layer pcb, 6 phase (6 drivers, 4 fets per driver, 2 chokes per driver, middling quality on all vrm components)

sabertooth: 4-layer pcb, shroud for extra rigidity, 8 phase (8 drivers, 4 fets per driver, 1 extremely high quality choke per drive, very high quality vrm components). 5-year warranty

deluxe: 6-layer pcb, 2oz copper traces, 16 phase (16 drivers, 2 drivers per driver chip, 2 fets per driver, 1 choke per driver, component quality between pro and sabertooth).

meanwhile, the maximus has the best of both worlds: 8-layer pcb, highest quality fets of any board manufacturer right now, etc.

hence, i would say the sabertooth is strictly better than the pro, and if they're both the same price, go for that one. however, if the deluxe is not much more, maybe consider it instead.


----------



## KingT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fartq*


both the sabertooth and pro have 4-layer pcbs. this can cause a reduction in signal quality = stability, particularly at higher clocks. imo, between the pro, sabertooth and deluxe, these are what i think are the major feature points:

*pro*: 4-layer pcb, *6 phase* (6 drivers, 4 fets per driver, 2 chokes per driver, middling quality on all vrm components)

sabertooth: 4-layer pcb, shroud for extra rigidity, 8 phase (8 drivers, 4 fets per driver, 1 extremely high quality choke per drive, very high quality vrm components). 5-year warranty

deluxe: 6-layer pcb, 2oz copper traces, 16 phase (16 drivers, 2 drivers per driver chip, 2 fets per driver, 1 choke per driver, component quality between pro and sabertooth).

meanwhile, the maximus has the best of both worlds: 8-layer pcb, highest quality fets of any board manufacturer right now, etc.

hence, i would say the sabertooth is strictly better than the pro, and if they're both the same price, go for that one. however, if the deluxe is not much more, maybe consider it instead.


No, Asus P8P67 Pro has 12 Phases CPU power delivery.. *CLICK HERE* and read specifications..

CHEERS..


----------



## fartq

there is only one driver per 2 "phases". hence, it's actually a 6 phase topology. they're being tricky in how they define a phase.

see here: http://www.chiphell.com/portal-view-aid-555-page-9.html

in contrast, the deluxe topology: http://www.chiphell.com/portal-view-aid-618-page-8.html

the p8z68-v pro otoh has a topo closest to the latter. (it's also a 6-layer board btw)

to be fair, almost everyone is tricky about phase numbering now, since vrm phases have shown up on marketing materials, and no one has any idea what a vrm phase is. the bottom line is that the pro has pretty high ripple that you can see even just watching the on-board sensor output. this will affect your stability at lower voltages and higher clocks, period.

it's still a very good value for the money at US prices, but let's be clear: it's just not that beefy.


----------



## Boyboyd

Count me in

Vanilla P8P67 ftw.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fartq*


there is only one driver per 2 "phases". hence, it's actually a 6 phase topology. they're being tricky in how they define a phase.

see here: http://www.chiphell.com/portal-view-aid-555-page-9.html

in contrast, the deluxe topology: http://www.chiphell.com/portal-view-aid-618-page-8.html

the p8z68-v pro otoh has a topo closest to the latter. (it's also a 6-layer board btw)

to be fair, almost everyone is tricky about phase numbering now, since vrm phases have shown up on marketing materials, and no one has any idea what a vrm phase is. the bottom line is that the pro has pretty high ripple that you can see even just watching the on-board sensor output. this will affect your stability at lower voltages and higher clocks, period.

it's still a very good value for the money at US prices, but let's be clear: it's just not that beefy.


Gonna take you up on that, my HX850 is known for low ripple, and I am monitoring the 12/5/3v lines with gaming/benchmark/internet browsing etc. Lets see it then









---

My CPU barely touches 50'c while gaming at 5Ghz


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Count me in

Vanilla P8P67 ftw.


Welcome to the Club, ASUS P8P67 Vanilla owner !
















I'll add you right now


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Welcome to the Club, ASUS P8P67 Vanilla owner !
















I'll add you right now










Thanks.

My temps went up my 5 degrees today, new case







(and







)


----------



## ACHILEE5

Here's my Rig


----------



## turrican9

*ACHILEE5*

Nice









Added link behind your nick in the members list


----------



## Boyboyd

That's a lot of exhaust fans :O


----------



## Butter on Toast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fartq;13585742*
> there is only one driver per 2 "phases". hence, it's actually a 6 phase topology. they're being tricky in how they define a phase.
> 
> see here: http://www.chiphell.com/portal-view-aid-555-page-9.html
> 
> in contrast, the deluxe topology: http://www.chiphell.com/portal-view-aid-618-page-8.html
> 
> the p8z68-v pro otoh has a topo closest to the latter. (it's also a 6-layer board btw)
> 
> to be fair, almost everyone is tricky about phase numbering now, since vrm phases have shown up on marketing materials, and no one has any idea what a vrm phase is. the bottom line is that the pro has pretty high ripple that you can see even just watching the on-board sensor output. this will affect your stability at lower voltages and higher clocks, period.
> 
> it's still a very good value for the money at US prices, but let's be clear: it's just not that beefy.


Damn! You know your stuff! Thanks for the enlgihtenment. +Rep. Going for the sabertotoh, the Deluxe just kills my budget :S


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Butter on Toast;13586389*
> Damn! You know your stuff! Thanks for the enlgihtenment. +Rep. Going for the sabertotoh, the Deluxe just kills my budget :S


Waste of money as any Asus P8Z68 mobo is better than Sabertooth and most of them are cheaper too..

Asus P8Z68-V Pro is FTW.. and cheaper too..

CHEERS..


----------



## Butter on Toast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13586416*
> Waste of money as any Asus P8Z68 mobo is better than Sabertooth and most of them are cheaper too..
> 
> Asus P8Z68-V Pro is FTW.. and cheaper too..
> 
> CHEERS..


Look @ what fartq said
and download the Sabertooth Military test report... it's just amazing.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13586009*
> *ACHILEE5*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added link behind your nick in the members list


Thanks bud








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13586086*
> That's a lot of exhaust fans :O


Yeah, no problems with Airflow here









As it goes! *I did have a problem with GFX!*
In-game, I'd get like a slight rippling on-screen. It would show best when looking at dark parts of games.
So I swapped out this and that. And in the end, it turned out to be my Surge protector causing interference to my monitor









It was a nightmare! And I noticed it the day after I had ran Prime95. And was thinking I'd harmed my chip or Mobo









But as I said, *it was my Surge Protector*


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Butter on Toast;13586572*
> Look @ what fartq said
> and download the Sabertooth Military test report... it's just amazing.


While that may all be very nice, I still think you pay too much for this 'overkill' quality. You get good quality in the P8P67 Pro too, and more features. It even has built in Bluetooth


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Butter on Toast;13586572*
> Look @ what fartq said
> and download the Sabertooth Military test report... it's just amazing.


Asus P8Z68-V Pro Z68 has true 16 Phase CPU delivery,no Sabertooth is match to it..

And on the top of it Asus P8P67 Pro is better motherboard for overclock,just look how many users have Great OC results..

And on HWBot (a world OC legue) P8P67 Pro's best OC is *5870MHz* *CLICK HERE* and Sabertooth's is only *5534MHz* *CLICK HERE*..

So much of Sabertooth being better than Pro..









You believe whatever you want but those are the facts,and only extra thing that you're really paying for on Sabertooth is the looks..

Good luck..

CHEERS..


----------



## Butter on Toast

TBH, I prefer quality over features. I already have a USB bluetooth dongle, so I couldn't really care much about bluetooth








AI Charger? Just plug the iPod into the wall.

Trust me, I really appreciate all that you guys tell me, but the most important thing for me here is *durability* and *control*. Not OC'ing, it is likely that I will use this board for half a year/ 1 year without OCING it

BTW does OC'ing void your warranty?

So if I see that a motherboard has passed a temperature shock test and a 90% humidity test, then to me that says "oh crap, this mobo is gunna last 5 years"

If i didn't care and had a money tree, I would get the PRO (well, I would have two builds, one with a GIGABYTE G.1 ASSASIN, but that is a different story







)

I NEED this board to live for at least 4 years. So the 5 year warranty and overkill components does it for me









I've made a decision, and I think the sabertooth is the board that best suits my OCD for temperatures and reliability.

Is the PRO a good motherboard? No doubt about it! It's just personal needs


----------



## Butter on Toast

And regarding Z68.... When I get an SSD it will be big, so no need for caching, and I don't care for an iGPU when I'm getting a 480







I don't really do that much video encoding, maybe 3 times a year MAX.


----------



## Butter on Toast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13586623*
> Thanks bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, no problems with Airflow here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it goes! *I did have a problem with GFX!*
> In-game, I'd get like a slight rippling on-screen. It would show best when looking at dark parts of games.
> So I swapped out this and that. And in the end, it turned out to be my Surge protector causing interference to my monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a nightmare! And I noticed it the day after I had ran Prime95. And was thinking I'd harmed my chip or Mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as I said, *it was my Surge Protector*


Ha, I started reading your post and it almost scared me away from the 480 until you said Surge Protector ^^
How are the temps on your 480?
Cheers


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Butter on Toast;13586794*
> Ha, I started reading your post and it almost scared me away from the 480 until you said Surge Protector ^^
> How are the temps on your 480?
> Cheers


Mate, it had me








But I'm a happy bunny again now









Temps on my KFA2 GTX480LTD OC Anarchy are 52c when gaming! And 60c in OCCT








840/1680/1700 @ 1.113v


----------



## Butter on Toast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13586858*
> Mate, it had me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm a happy bunny again now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps on my KFA2 GTX480LTD OC Anarchy are 52c when gaming! And 60c in OCCT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 840/1680/1700 @ 1.113v


Nice!
That card looks a lot like the Windforce 3 Model from GIGABYTE.
How is the DF-85? Better than HAF X?


----------



## ForNever

Ok fellow P8P67 (Pro) owners, any idea what "AUXTIN" sensor is in hw monitor? Mine spikes to about 70C during p95. Got me a bit nervous


----------



## Butter on Toast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever;13587137*
> Ok fellow P8P67 (Pro) owners, any idea what "AUXTIN" sensor is in hw monitor? Mine spikes to about 70C during p95. Got me a bit nervous


Auxiliary Something input?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever;13587137*
> Ok fellow P8P67 (Pro) owners, any idea what "AUXTIN" sensor is in hw monitor? Mine spikes to about 70C during p95. Got me a bit nervous


Mine is at 0. You jealous?

In all seriousness, i've got no idea what it is


----------



## Alex132

Temps while gaming often stayed under 40'c









Volts were rock steady, alternating only by a few 0.00x


----------



## Alex132

double post


----------



## Boyboyd

What program is that? Looks like an official Asus one.


----------



## Alex132

AI Suite II, comes with the motherboard driver disk/on their website


----------



## Doodlebro

I'm getting the P8P67-Pro in a couple of days here. Just finishing up my research on it to make sure I'm buying the right stuff









Add meh?


----------



## ForNever

welcome to the party Doodle


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doodlebro;13587529*
> I'm getting the P8P67-Pro in a couple of days here. Just finishing up my research on it to make sure I'm buying the right stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add meh?


First of all, welcome to the club new member !
















Second, Congrats on selecting this great motherboard !









Third, looking forward to your results when you get it ! Be sure to let us know !


----------



## samuel002

Yeah i tried to reinstall my H50 but i still get pretty much the same temps with 1-3c off. Sigh... do i need to get a new cooler now? or its just my room temps are bad...?


----------



## Doodlebro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever;13587541*
> welcome to the party Doodle


Thanks dog!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13587550*
> First of all, welcome to the club new member !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second, Congrats on selecting this great motherboard !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Third, looking forward to your results when you get it ! Be sure to let us know !


I'm using this rig for a little video editing but more for gaming and everything else I do. I'll probably keep it under 5GHz for 24/7 usage but perhaps I'll have a golden chip that can go higher. It all depends on how cool it stays with my H50. We'll see!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doodlebro;13587692*
> Thanks dog!
> 
> I'm using this rig for a little video editing but more for gaming and everything else I do. I'll probably keep it under 5GHz for 24/7 usage but perhaps I'll have a golden chip that can go higher. It all depends on how cool it stays with my H50. We'll see!


These chips will vary alot. Mine (i5 2500K) is a pretty bad one. Needs ~1.47v for 4.8GHz Blend stable. I just keep it at 4.5GHz ~1.368v for 24/7.


----------



## nawon72

Finally someone made a club for this these mobos. Can i join?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13587716*
> Finally someone made a club for this these mobos. Can i join?


Welcome to the Club mate !







You'll be added in a moment !


----------



## SmasherBasher

So, is this board getting people pretty good overclocks on 2600k's? I'm going to be putting one underwater on the Vanilla board with a single GTX 580 for folding.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;13587739*
> So, is this board getting people pretty good overclocks on 2600k's? I'm going to be putting one underwater on the Vanilla board with a single GTX 580 for folding.


Here... Look at the link in this post from *KingT*. Personally I find it to be a joy overclocking with !








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13586682*
> Asus P8Z68-V Pro Z68 has true 16 Phase CPU delivery,no Sabertooth is match to it..
> 
> And on the top of it Asus P8P67 Pro is better motherboard for overclock,just look how many users have Great OC results..
> 
> And on HWBot (a world OC legue) P8P67 Pro's best OC is *5870MHz* *CLICK HERE* and Sabertooth's is only *5534MHz* *CLICK HERE*..
> 
> So much of Sabertooth being better than Pro..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You believe whatever you want but those are the facts,and only extra thing that you're really paying for on Sabertooth is the looks..
> 
> Good luck..
> 
> CHEERS..


----------



## nawon72

Here's my first question:
Quote:


> *When using Offset, Vcore does not fluctuate as much. And you will get away with a more stable overclock at a couple of notches lower Vcore VS manually setting Vcore.*


Im able run Prime95 Blend for 1Hr, but when i browse the web or do something that doesnt stress the CPU i BSOD. Usually 124, but more Vcore didnt help. So im thinking that offset doesnt work for me at 4.8Ghz. But i have no problems with offset at 4.6Ghz.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13587869*
> Here's my first question:
> Im able run Prime95 Blend for 1Hr, but when i browse the web or do something that doesnt stress the CPU i BSOD. Usually 124, but more Vcore didnt help. So im thinking that offset doesnt work for me at 4.8Ghz. But i have no problems with offset at 4.6Ghz.


Yes, I also stated that this was something each person must test themselves for their overclock/system.

I tested this at 4.5GHz.

So I don't know how well it works using Offset at those higher speeds. It seems you have found something interesting here.

I know *grunion*, the man who gave me this information about using Offset was better, he used it for his 4.8GHz overclock.


----------



## turrican9

*nawon72*

Updated the second/overclocker post of this Club, Quoting your post. It is important for people to know that they should test what's best for their overclock/systems...


----------



## nawon72

Do you know what settings grunion used?

And will the Power on by PCIe cold boot fix work if i have Power on by PS/2 set to Ctrl+Esc?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13587412*
> AI Suite II, comes with the motherboard driver disk/on their website


Damn. I tried to install that but it said my model wasn't supported. It's moved on a bit since I had it on my P5WD2 (P4 days).

Guess i'll give it another try. Does it let you adjust voltages and multi from in windows?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13587996*
> Do you know what settings grunion used?


http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1012874-tiny-asus-p8p67-series-pro-owners-12.html#post13504946

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13504946*
> I don't advocate using offset, especially with the bug.
> But I use it because it hits my target voltage more closely than manual, go figure.
> With manual I have to set 1.45v-h llc to reach stability, droops to 1.39v when stressing.
> Offset gives me stability at 1.4v-h llc with droop at 1.384v.
> 
> That screams insufficient vcore.
> 
> Here are my 4.8 settings, this was 13hrs blend stable, 15hrs memtest stable.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Target CPU Turbo-Mode  Speed: 4800MHz
> Target DRAM Speed: 1866MHz/8-9-8-24 1T
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner      Manual
> BCLK/PEG Frequency      100.0
> Turbo Ratio             By All Cores
> By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) 48
> Internal PLL Overvoltage     Enabled
> Memory Frequency    DDR3-1866MHz
> EPU Power Saving Mode    Disabled
> 
> DIGI+ VRM
> 
> Load-Line Calibaration     High
> VRM Spread Spectrum     Enabled
> Phase Control     Optimized
> Duty Control    T.Probe
> CPU Current Capability    120%
> 
> CPU Voltage     1.248  Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign      +
> CPU Offset Voltage    0.070
> DRAM Voltage    1.56250
> VCCSA Voltage   .90
> VCCIO Voltage  1.0
> CPU PLL Voltage    1.71250
> PCH Voltage    1.0
> CPU Spread Spectrum    Auto
> 
> All are listed as manual requested voltages.
> 1502 bios btw.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13587869*
> Here's my first question:
> Im able run Prime95 Blend for 1Hr, but when i browse the web or do something that doesnt stress the CPU i BSOD. Usually 124, but more Vcore didnt help. So im thinking that offset doesnt work for me at 4.8Ghz. But i have no problems with offset at 4.6Ghz.


I had the same thing so I used the manual adjust instead of the offset and it works like a charm now








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13588002*
> Damn. I tried to install that but it said my model wasn't supported. It's moved on a bit since I had it on my P5WD2 (P4 days).
> 
> Guess i'll give it another try. Does it let you adjust voltages and multi from in windows?


Yeah but personally I wouldn't touch any in-OS overclocking tools with a 10 foot pole. (Other than GPU)


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13588002*
> Damn. I tried to install that but it said my model wasn't supported. It's moved on a bit since I had it on my P5WD2 (P4 days).
> 
> Guess i'll give it another try. Does it let you adjust voltages and multi from in windows?


Try this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;11945034*
> Troubleshooting
> 
> Trouble installing AI Suite? Install this patch (run it as administrator). You will have to do this twice.


----------



## 4x4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;13587739*
> So, is this board getting people pretty good overclocks on 2600k's? I'm going to be putting one underwater on the Vanilla board with a single GTX 580 for folding.


Hey Smasher, this board is perfect for folding. I ran mine at 4.5 with a GTS450 folding during the CC. Not for OCN though. I'm on the TPU team








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13588002*
> Damn. I tried to install that but it said my model wasn't supported. It's moved on a bit since I had it on my P5WD2 (P4 days).
> 
> Guess i'll give it another try. Does it let you adjust voltages and multi from in windows?


Yup, works great. You can adjust just about everything.


----------



## nawon72

Settings grunion used:
VCCSA Voltage .90
VCCIO Voltage 1.0
PCH Voltage 1.0

Isn't VCCSA supposed to be left on auto and not touched? And the VCCIO and PCH Voltage are under Intel Spec.


----------



## fartq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13587764*
> Here... Look at the link in this post from *KingT*. Personally I find it to be a joy overclocking with !


hwbot numbers have more to do with volume sold than anything else. that said, i don't think this is a bad board at all. I quite like it and I think it's _the_ best option at its price-point. it may not be the best board to do 5ghz 1.52v 24/7 on, but it's pretty darn good at everything else.

however, the rest of the asus line is good too and actually pretty well differentiated.


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fartq;13588581*
> it may not be the best board to do 5ghz 1.52v 24/7 on, but it's pretty darn good at everything else.


That poor chip....


----------



## Boyboyd

Speedstep actually makes my overclock more stable :S

I'm downloading Asus AI suite. Only 16 minutes remaining...


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fartq;13588581*
> hwbot numbers have more to do with volume sold than anything else. that said, i don't think this is a bad board at all. I quite like it and I think it's _the_ best option at its price-point. it may not be the best board to do 5ghz 1.52v 24/7 on, but it's pretty darn good at everything else.
> 
> however, the rest of the asus line is good too and actually pretty well differentiated.


I do 5Ghz @ 1.4475 And I'm good








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13588706*
> Speedstep actually makes my overclock more stable :S
> 
> I'm downloading Asus AI suite. Only 16 minutes remaining...


Makes mine less stable


----------



## h2beez

Hey guys, newb question

On the p8p67 PRO can I run dual channel in ram slots 3 and 4? My cooler fans won't fit any other way...

Thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2beez;13588830*
> Hey guys, newb question
> 
> On the p8p67 PRO can I run dual channel in ram slots 3 and 4? My cooler fans won't fit any other way...
> 
> Thanks


No, only same color slots will give you Dual channel.


----------



## Alex132

You could remove the tall part of the shroud?
Rotate the fans?

Also ASUS recommends the blue slots (#2 and #4)


----------



## Doodlebro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13588853*
> You could remove the tall part of the shroud?
> Rotate the fans?
> 
> Also ASUS recommends the blue slots (#2 and #4)


Any idea why they recommend that?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doodlebro;13589637*
> Any idea why they recommend that?


I don't know... It is written in the motherboards manual too.


----------



## Doodlebro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13589646*
> I don't know... It is written in the motherboards manual too.


I bet it's just so that CPU coolers have a TINY bit more room. I can't see why they would give any computing advantage.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Doodlebro*


I bet it's just so that CPU coolers have a TINY bit more room. I can't see why they would give any computing advantage.


I think the manual states that for better overclocking the blue slots (#2 - #4) should be used when running two mem sticks... ?

Unlike the 775 motherboards, which always stated that Slot 1 and 3 should be used for better overclocking.

btw: Edited this thread a great deal. Also in my second post you will find links to *free backup/Imaging software.*


----------



## turrican9

Updated first post with links that points directly to these four mobos homepage, and also links that points directly to each mobos ftp folder.

Quote:



*
ASUS P8P67 Vanilla Home (ftp) - ASUS P8P67 PRO Home (ftp)
ASUS P8P67 EVO Home (ftp) - ASUS P8P67 Deluxe Home (ftp)*



Also a third Option Signature is now added...

Quote:



*Third Option. Combined Signature - *







*The Tiny ASUS P8P67 Series/PRO Owners Corner Club*









Code:


Code:


[CODE]
:clock:[B][THREAD=1012874]The Tiny ASUS P8P67 Series/PRO Owners Corner Club[/THREAD][/B]:clock:

[/CODE]


----------



## kody7839

I think if things keep going this way that during your next sig revision you'll have to remove the "Tiny" part


----------



## nawon72

Can i get some advice with overclocking my memory. I have tried 1.7V DDR, 1.15 VCCIO, 9-10-28-2 timings, at 1866Mhz but even with all that i get an overclocking failed message. Is my memory just not overclockable?


----------



## Laurence

Count me in, just got a 2500K witha P8P67 Pro Rev 3, and wow its fast!

Just gotta get a new cooler before I can see just how fast it can go


----------



## Boyboyd

I still need to exchange my board for a B3 revision. Not sure if i can be bothered though, lol.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Can i get some advice with overclocking my memory. I have tried 1.7V DDR, 1.15 VCCIO, 9-10-28-2 timings, at 1866Mhz but even with all that i get an overclocking failed message. Is my memory just not overclockable?


1.7v DDR?????
You're supposed to stick as close as you can to 1.5v! I have my sticks (1.65v stock) overclocked and undervolted and they run just fine!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I still need to exchange my board for a B3 revision. Not sure if i can be bothered though, lol.


Use the SATA6 for HDD's and SATA3/Marvel SATA6 for DVD drives etc, and you won't have to replace it for a LONG time


----------



## Boyboyd

I have too many drives to do that







All that's important is my data drives, and they're on the sata6 ports anyway.

The I just have 2 ssdd and a raid array. I don't think the marvel ports support raid? I could be wrong though.


----------



## Alex132

Nope, how would you even go about exchanging it?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Nope, how would you even go about exchanging it?


I have to do it through asus Europe and it could take up to 3 weeks. I figure I'll just risk loosing some unimportant games that I can just re-download *if* it goes.


----------



## Alex132

Well you have 3 HDDs + 1 DVD drive?


----------



## Boyboyd

5 and 1 dvd drive. Only 2 drives are important though. I'm using every port on this motherboard lol.


----------



## Alex132

Yeah I wouldn't keep my hopes up of it lasting that long then


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Laurence*


Count me in, just got a 2500K witha P8P67 Pro Rev 3, and wow its fast!

Just gotta get a new cooler before I can see just how fast it can go


Welcome to the club !







I'll add you in a second !


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I have too many drives to do that







All that's important is my data drives, and they're on the sata6 ports anyway.

The I just have 2 ssdd and a raid array. I don't think the marvel ports support raid? I could be wrong though.


The Marvell ports supports Raid 0/1.


----------



## Night197

A proud owner here !!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Night197*


A proud owner here !!


Why not join the Club then?


----------



## RomeoOG

Add me to the list... If you need pictures I can take them tonight


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeoOG;13599169*
> Add me to the list... If you need pictures I can take them tonight


Welcome to the Club mate !







Pictures are not required, but appreciated !


----------



## icefire7454

Ill join too


----------



## turrican9

Since we are a good deal of members here now, and hopefully growing more, I've decided to get rid of the 'Tiny' bit of the Clubs name









Revised signatures:

Quote:


> *First Option -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Corner Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]The ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Corner Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]
> 
> *Second Option -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The ASUS P8P67 Series Owners Corner Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]The ASUS P8P67 Series Owners Corner Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]
> 
> *Third Option. Combined Signature -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The ASUS P8P67 Series/PRO Owners Corner Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]The ASUS P8P67 Series/PRO Owners Corner Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icefire7454;13600205*
> Ill join too


Welcome to the Club then, ASUS P8P67 PRO owner !


----------



## icefire7454

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Welcome to the Club then, ASUS P8P67 PRO owner !










How do i add that little signature with the blue flames or whatever on the side ? Im new to this


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *icefire7454*


How do i add that little signature with the blue flames or whatever on the side ? Im new to this










Copy and paste all the text inside the 'php code:' fields, then you go here and paste it in


----------



## SmasherBasher

Would anyone care to help me with this board? I'm brand new to Sandy Bridge.


----------



## deadsnow

I am looking forward to join the club soon. I'll be building my rig at the end of June most-likely and will probably purchase this board. Might need a hand in overclocking though, hope some of you could help then.


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


Would anyone care to help me with this board? I'm brand new to Sandy Bridge.


What do you need help with?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


1.7v DDR?????
You're supposed to stick as close as you can to 1.5v! I have my sticks (1.65v stock) overclocked and undervolted and they run just fine!


So do you have any suggestions on how to OC my RAM?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


Would anyone care to help me with this board? I'm brand new to Sandy Bridge.


I would definitely take a look at sin's review HERE Most of the settings on the p67 mobos are the same so getting familiar with them will be a good idea.


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


So do you have any suggestions on how to OC my RAM?


try 1866 9-9-9-28 1.5V (may need 9-10-9).

next try 2133 9-10-9-28 1.65V (may need 9-11-9).

may also be able to do 1600 7-8-7-28 1.6V.

I like running a few passes of HCI memtest for a quick stability test when OCing ram. load up an instance for each thread you have and divide all available memory between each instance.

You can use maxxmem to do performance testing to see the difference between the speeds.


----------



## RomeoOG

Here's the picture I promised


----------



## rtranphotography

i just installed everything today, did not mess with any of the bios settings as of yet. but i just wanted to see if everything is running correctly

i only have 4gb of memory for now
i5-2500k


----------



## RomeoOG

Here's a picture of what I done to the H70


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *compudaze*


try 1866 9-9-9-28 1.5V (may need 9-10-9).

next try 2133 9-10-9-28 1.65V (may need 9-11-9).

may also be able to do 1600 7-8-7-28 1.6V.

I like running a few passes of HCI memtest for a quick stability test when OCing ram. load up an instance for each thread you have and divide all available memory between each instance.

You can use maxxmem to do performance testing to see the difference between the speeds.


So i don't need to touch the VCCIO? I have to set to the standard 1.05.


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


So i don't need to touch the VCCIO? I have to set to the standard 1.05.


You may or may not, just depends. I would only go up to 1.2V if needed. What I like to do is set VCCIO to 1.2V and find max stable ram overclock then work VCCIO down the lowest voltage that keeps stability. So far I haven't had fast enough RAM to require anything more than the standard 1.05V.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeoOG;13603535*
> Here's a picture of what I done to the H70


Thanks !







Added link to your system, behind your nick in the memberslist


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13602716*
> So do you have any suggestions on how to OC my RAM?


Try to loosen your timings while keeping close to 1.5v. 1.65v should work fine though but you should begin at 1.5v and just try to loosen those timings first..


----------



## ACHILEE5

*USB Device Over Current Status Detected*

Is it My Mobo or Keyboard


















*I have got it working now!*
I reset the bios! That didn't work!
I tried my keyboard on my laptop. It worked!
So I tried a different keyboard and my Rig booted!
So I went into the bios and did my settings!
Then I shut down and connected my M15 keyboard, and it booted









My keyboard is on USB3!
And I got a message in Windows (before the boot problem) (USB Device Over Current Status Detected) just after safe to removing a USB SD drive from my Front USB3 header!

So we are talking a USB thumb drive being removed causing chaos


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


*USB Device Over Current Status Detected*

Is it My Mobo or Keyboard









*I have got it working now!*
I reset the bios! That didn't work!
I tried my keyboard on my laptop. It worked!
So I tried a different keyboard and my Rig booted!
So I went into the bios and did my settings!
Then I shut down and connected my M15 keyboard, and it booted









My keyboard is on USB3!
And I got a message in Windows (before the boot problem) (USB Device Over Current Status Detected) just after safe to removing a USB SD drive from my Front USB3 header!

So we are talking a USB thumb drive being removed causing chaos










Have you tried with another keyboard?

Edit: Noted that you got it working. Strange..


----------



## nawon72

Im pretty much giving up with OC'ing my RAM now. Ive tried doing what compudaze said, but i could only post at 1866MHz. I was able to boot with 1.2VCCIO 1.5V DDR at 1866MHz 9-9-9-18-1. That failed HCI memtest instantly and my comp restarted. Even with 9-11-9-28-2 it failed instantly and my comp either froze or restarted. And for some reason i can't set my DDR voltage to 1.55 or higher(haven't tried lower). When i do i either get the overclocking failed message or my comp freezes.

Am i doing something wrong?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Very strange!








But if there's a weakness, I'll find it


----------



## Yvese

Is there a big difference between the regular Asus p8p67 and the pro version? I'm looking at http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=677&Itemid=69 and the only differences I see are esata ports and one less pcie/gbit slot which has no use for me.

Is it just better supported or what?


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese;13613747*
> Is there a big difference between the regular Asus p8p67 and the pro version? I'm looking at http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=677&Itemid=69 and the only differences I see are esata ports and one less pcie/gbit slot which has no use for me.
> 
> Is it just better supported or what?


Pro supports 8x8 cfx/sli.


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13613868*
> Pro supports 8x8 cfx/sli.


No use for that either. I'm guessing I wont miss out much on the Pro version then?


----------



## compudaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese;13613903*
> No use for that either. I'm guessing I wont miss out much on the Pro version then?


Nope.


----------



## Boyboyd

It's supposed to be a better overclocker on paper too, but im not sure how much better.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese;13613747*
> Is there a big difference between the regular Asus p8p67 and the pro version? I'm looking at http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=677&Itemid=69 and the only differences I see are esata ports and one less pcie/gbit slot which has no use for me.
> 
> Is it just better supported or what?


The PRO also has just one gbit LAN port.

Vanilla only supports crossfire and not SLI, as far as I know. And also has lesser number of power phases for CPU I believe.

Otherwise there are no major differences...


----------



## Alex132

the Vanilla supports both Crossfire and SLI, but only at 16x and 4x(Marvel controller) whereas the PRO supports SLi and Crossfire at 8x and 8x with the Intel controller and 8x 8x 4x SLI/Crossfire with Intel and Marvel controllers.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13617368*
> the Vanilla supports both Crossfire and SLI, but only at 16x and 4x(Marvel controller) whereas the PRO supports SLi and Crossfire at 8x and 8x with the Intel controller and 8x 8x 4x SLI/Crossfire with Intel and Marvel controllers.


ASUS Homepage only mention Crossfire 'Supports ATI® Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technology' but at 16x/4x like you stated.

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8P67/#specifications


----------



## Boyboyd

Here, have some pics.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13617436*
> Here, have some pics.


Wow man ! Nice looking system !







Will add link on first page !


----------



## Boyboyd

Thanks. Adding a 2nd radiator after i get paid for this month.


----------



## RomeoOG

Nice Rig bud, FYI thanks to the information from you and the post on the first page about this MB I'm now trying to run at 4841mgh currently trying to do 12hrs of Prime, I got it stable over 6hrs and got the black screen when I woke up this morning.

Also I set everything to run on Offset I believe in the long run it will make everything last longer...


----------



## Boyboyd

Cheers,

If i could understand offset mode i'd probably use it. It's supposed to be better, but it is more complicated.


----------



## RomeoOG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13605850*
> Thanks !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added link to your system, behind your nick in the memberslist


Thanks Bud apreciated.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13617417*
> ASUS Homepage only mention Crossfire 'Supports ATI® Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technology' but at 16x/4x like you stated.
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8P67/#specifications


QuadfireX/Quad-Sli is only for dual GPU's on a single PCB


----------



## RomeoOG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *compudaze;13602955*
> try 1866 9-9-9-28 1.5V (may need 9-10-9).
> 
> next try 2133 9-10-9-28 1.65V (may need 9-11-9).
> 
> may also be able to do 1600 7-8-7-28 1.6V.
> 
> I like running a few passes of HCI memtest for a quick stability test when OCing ram. load up an instance for each thread you have and divide all available memory between each instance.
> 
> You can use maxxmem to do performance testing to see the difference between the speeds.


Hey compudaze,

Can you give me some pointers on how I can try to overclock my ram also? I try some but its not working.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13618477*
> Cheers,
> 
> If i could understand offset mode i'd probably use it. It's supposed to be better, but it is more complicated.


Just stick to manual setting Vcore then







From what I understand, alot of people have problems with BSOD's when their CPU's downclocks and they use Offset.


----------



## turrican9

I can say a few words about my Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600 9-9-9-24-1.5v kit... They will actually do 1600MHz 8-8-8-24-1t at stock Voltage (1.5v) Rock stable.

I've also found that if overclocking much past this I need very relaxed timings. So really not worth it.


----------



## RomeoOG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13618710*
> I can say a few words about my Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600 9-9-9-24-1.5v kit... They will actually do 1600MHz 8-8-8-24-1t at stock Voltage (1.5v) Rock stable.
> 
> I've also found that if overclocking much past this I need very relaxed timings. So really not worth it.


currently i'm running at stock speed of 9-9-9-24-1 at 1.60V the memory is rated at 1.65V at 16mhz, I want to up the clock to 1833mhz but it won't load.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeoOG;13618730*
> currently i'm running at stock speed of 9-9-9-24-1 at 1.60V the memory is rated at 1.65V at 16mhz, I want to up the clock to 1833mhz but it won't load.


Have you tried raising the VCC0 voltage? If I remember right some said that it helped raising this Voltage for mem overclocking


----------



## Alex132

Overclocking RAM timings is easy.
lower them all by 1 tick each, and the last one by 2 ticks. (eg; *9-9-9-24* becomes *8-8-8-22*) Then stress test with Prime95 and/or Memtest86+, from then on lower the first one and the third one by 1 tick (*8*-8-*8*-22 into *7*-8-*7*-22) and stress test again, if that fails then try 7-8-*8*-22. If it works, then go for 7-8-7-*20*, if that works go for 7-7-7-20 etc.


----------



## turrican9

By the way, I tried that Auto overclocking feature in Ai Suite II, just for fun. Selecting the fast way it gave me 4.3GHz something, but when going extreme it just took off! 5GHz + and crazy vcores.

CPU almost hit 90c degrees, so I stopped it. Lol!









But actually it seemed to select the needed Vcore for my mediocre CPU. So it works pretty well, as long as you just understand when to stop it


----------



## Alex132

For me it gave me 1.48v for 4.5Ghz, I get 5Ghz at 1.44v, 4.8Ghz at 1.35v so its WAY off!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13619574*
> For me it gave me 1.48v for 4.5Ghz, I get 5Ghz at 1.44v, 4.8Ghz at 1.35v so its WAY off!


Lol ! This software is crap then









Always best to do it yourself


----------



## Alex132

Hope they fix the offset bugs in future BIOS updates


----------



## Boyboyd

It gave me 4.2GHz with 1.4v. I can do 4.5 on 1.1v lol.

Still needs some work i think.


----------



## Alex132

4.5v with 1.1v :O!


----------



## ACHILEE5

USB Device Over Current Status Detected

Is it My Mobo or Keyboard


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13620742*
> USB Device Over Current Status Detected
> 
> Is it My Mobo or Keyboard


So it happened again...

Why not try to use other keyboard for a few days? This way you will isolate the problem...


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13620810*
> So it happened again...
> 
> Why not try to use other keyboard for a few days? This way you will isolate the problem...


Yep, again









As I moved the Keyboard! So yeah, I'll swap out the Keyboard and see how it goes









Only sad thing is, it's a G15.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13620862*
> Yep, again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I moved the Keyboard! So yeah, I'll swap out the Keyboard and see how it goes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only sad thing is, it's a G15.


Better with a faulty keyboard than a motherboard I would say... Even if its a G15...


----------



## Alex132

Meh at least its not a mechanical keyboard, then that would be sad








Try to not have the G15's lights on, see then?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13620898*
> Better with a faulty keyboard than a motherboard I would say... Even if its a G15...


I'm browsing now for a new keyboard









It drives ya mad mate


----------



## Alex132

Razer Black Widow. Can't go wrong at that price-point, ultimate is more for back-lit and USB/line-in adapters. I have the ultimate


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13621197*
> Razer Black Widow. Can't go wrong at that price-point, ultimate is more for back-lit and USB/line-in adapters. I have the ultimate






http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNYB5pDxj_I[/ame[/URL]]

I have this Cyborg. Hate it...


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13621197*
> Razer Black Widow. Can't go wrong at that price-point, ultimate is more for back-lit and USB/line-in adapters. I have the ultimate


I had one, and i'll admit. I liked it a lot when I had it.

I sold it on here and had to return it to amazon for them, the keys got harder to press over time.

They had some quality issues but apart from that it was pretty good value for money.


----------



## Alex132

Yeah one thing I will say is never try replacing/taking off the space bar. You cant put it back on basically. (the same as it was before)


----------



## HOTDOGS

Count me in!


----------



## Boyboyd

Is that because of the metal stabilisers?

I had a similar problem replacing the backspace, enter, and right shift keys on my filco. In fact, my right shift doesn't even have a stabiliser any more because it was so complicated


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


Count me in!


Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you right away


----------



## Alex132

Nor does my keypad +. have to SLAM it to get it to register XD
my space only has the right hand stabilizer lol!


----------



## Boyboyd

I have no keypad







lol


----------



## Alex132

I dont really use it, type numbers with the 1-0 ontop of the keys (got used to it after years and years of compact mac keyboards and macbook pro/ti-books keypad)


----------



## Boyboyd

When my tenkeyless arrived at work I thought i'd try it for the day.

I work in accounts, and it was very hard because pretty much all i do all day is type numbers. lol


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Meh at least its not a mechanical keyboard, then that would be sad








Try to not have the G15's lights on, see then?


Good idea!
I've dimmed them









But, I don't think I want a mechanical keyboard! Too noisy









I think I might just buy a cheap rubbish one


----------



## Boyboyd

I have black switches, they're really quiet so long as you don't pound on the keys.

I understand that mechanical keyboards don't appeal to everyone though.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Good idea!
I've dimmed them









But, I don't think I want a mechanical keyboard! Too noisy









I think I might just buy a cheap rubbish one










I would recommend the Logitech Deluxe 250







Dirt cheap and very nice. I like it much better than my expensive but crappy Cyborg


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13623540*
> I would recommend the Logitech Deluxe 250
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt cheap and very nice. I like it much better than my expensive but crappy Cyborg


Cool









Yeah, I've done the Flash Keyboard thing!
And yeah, sometimes the LCD is handy. But throwing a big chunk of dosh at another keyboard because it says "Gamer Keyboard" is a joke









I've done Z-Board, G11 and this G15. But the next one will be just one that feels nice to type with. So it looks like I need a Mac









So off shopping tomorrow, for a cheap "USB keyboard" that feels nice to use









And then, if I get that message with the new keyboard! I'll get the Mobo changed, and I'll have a spare keyboard









edit
The P8P67 Pro, plays Dirt 3 nice








Capturing Fraps at 60fps full size, "no lag"


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13623979*
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've done the Flash Keyboard thing!
> And yeah, sometimes the LCD is handy. But throwing a big chunk of dosh at another keyboard because it says "Gamer Keyboard" is a joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've done Z-Board, G11 and this G15. But the next one will be just one that feels nice to type with. So it looks like I need a Mac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So off shopping tomorrow, for a cheap "USB keyboard" that feels nice to use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then, if I get that message with the new keyboard! I'll get the Mobo changed, and I'll have a spare keyboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit
> The P8P67 Pro, plays Dirt 3 nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capturing Fraps at 60fps full size, "no lag"


Deluxe 250 is excactly what you describe here. It is a simple, cheap, but quality keyboard. Much better both for typing and gaming than these flashy, expensive so called gaming keyboards. I only use regular keyboard layout for gaming anyway. I will never again buy expensive keyboards.

Crossing fingers that nothing is wrong with your mobo









Yeah, I've seen the constant 60FPS in several games already







Lovin it


----------



## Doodlebro

Got my stuff today guys. Installed a fresh 2500K on this board with 8 GB of G.Skill RAM. I'll push it later tonight. I think I've got a pretty good idea on what to do, but does anybody have a definitive guide that they used that helped them?

Thanks!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeoOG;13618730*
> currently i'm running at stock speed of 9-9-9-24-1 at 1.60V the memory is rated at 1.65V at 16mhz, I want to up the clock to 1833mhz but it won't load.


Don't worry if you cant OC your ram. Your not really missing out on anything. There is no real world benefit that justifies the price of RAM faster than 1600MHz 9-9-9-28-2. And even if you can OC your RAM, the real world gains are almost zero. It's only good for RAM benchmarks or HWBot.

I have given up trying to OC my RAM. I'd rather spend that time OC'ing my CPU or GPU which gives much more for less time spent.


----------



## thefiend1

Hey guys,

I have the P8P67 Deluxe and im getting the double boot problem









What can I do to fix this? Help a noob out!

Thanks!!


----------



## RomeoOG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13618778*
> Overclocking RAM timings is easy.
> lower them all by 1 tick each, and the last one by 2 ticks. (eg; *9-9-9-24* becomes *8-8-8-22*) Then stress test with Prime95 and/or Memtest86+, from then on lower the first one and the third one by 1 tick (*8*-8-*8*-22 into *7*-8-*7*-22) and stress test again, if that fails then try 7-8-*8*-22. If it works, then go for 7-8-7-*20*, if that works go for 7-7-7-20 etc.


I try what you advise and it didn't work...

Also I got this overheating couple of times while running prime 95 for a long period of time I think there's a bug how can I report or anybody here can report to Asus so they can fix on their next update?

Look at my MB its at 123C


----------



## Tropic55

Not a member of the Pro club,
Hope its ok to ask this question here,
Theres a ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.0) in the trades section I want badly,
Did alot of research on the board and keep coming up with boot problems with the ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.0)? Should I be concerned if I purchased this, Or eh..Happens on some boards.
Thanks fellas in advance.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeoOG;13627349*
> I try what you advise and it didn't work...
> 
> Also I got this overheating couple of times while running prime 95 for a long period of time I think there's a bug how can I report or anybody here can report to Asus so they can fix on their next update?
> 
> Look at my MB its at 123C


You need to drop the bclk down to 100 and up the multi to 48.

Vccsa and vccio both need to be increased.

Auto vcca gives me .925v at 100x48.
Auto vccio gives me 1.053v at 100x48.

And did you remove the plastic film from the chipset heatsink?


----------



## RomeoOG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13627530*
> You need to drop the bclk down to 100 and up the multi to 48.
> 
> Vccsa and vccio both need to be increased.
> 
> Auto vcca gives me .925v at 100x48.
> Auto vccio gives me 1.053v at 100x48.
> 
> And did you remove the plastic film from the chipset heatsink?


I try various overclocking options from 100x up to 54 works fine just temp is way too much, anyways I try to overclock the memory but it doesn't work so the only way I can overclock both memory and speed is up the blk it works but sometimes I get that message, not all the time...

The reason I lower all that is to keep the heat down, it works to some point.


----------



## Doodlebro

So here's my latest problem. This happened with my last board, so I'm pretty sure it's one of my HDD's, but when I use my RAID-0 drive as a boot drive everything works for a little while and then steam crashes and itunes won't open and blah blah. So I ran chkdsk and that didn't find anything. Any help?


----------



## Boyboyd

My base clock has adjusted itself to 100.3 :\

What is this i don't even...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13629371*
> My base clock has adjusted itself to 100.3 :\
> 
> What is this i don't even...


Have you disabled Spread Spectrum? If you have it enabled I think frequencies will vary a tiny bit.


----------



## Boyboyd

Oh, figured it out.

When i updated the bios, I forgot to change the overclocking to manual. Even though it let me adjust the voltages and multis for some reason it thought that a base clock of 100.3 would be appropriate. lol

I'm picking up my new radiator from work shortly. Even though it's my day off.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tropic55;13627487*
> Not a member of the Pro club,
> Hope its ok to ask this question here,
> Theres a ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.0) in the trades section I want badly,
> Did alot of research on the board and keep coming up with boot problems with the ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.0)? Should I be concerned if I purchased this, Or eh..Happens on some boards.
> Thanks fellas in advance.


Why not ask the trader if he had any boot problems with it?

Also, there are a few suggestions in my first post of this Club. Many of these boot problems can also relate to the Marvell and JMicron controller slowing down your boot if you don't disable them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thefiend1;13626337*
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have the P8P67 Deluxe and im getting the double boot problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What can I do to fix this? Help a noob out!
> 
> Thanks!!


Try to disable Internal PLL overvoltage, or try to disable both the Marvell and JMicron controllers If you don't use them.

Also check first post of this Club for a few suggestions.


----------



## ThePope43

I'm having a weird problem with a new build. I have the P8P67 DELUXE, and when I press the power button on the case, the computer starts up for about 1 full second, then shuts off for about 2 full seconds...then continues to startup/

What could be the cause of this?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThePope43;13630666*
> I'm having a weird problem with a new build. I have the P8P67 DELUXE, and when I press the power button on the case, the computer starts up for about 1 full second, then shuts off for about 2 full seconds...then continues to startup/
> 
> What could be the cause of this?


Try one of my suggestions in my last post


----------



## j.jacelone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThePope43*


I'm having a weird problem with a new build. I have the P8P67 DELUXE, and when I press the power button on the case, the computer starts up for about 1 full second, then shuts off for about 2 full seconds...then continues to startup/

What could be the cause of this?



Sounds like an issue with the memory. I was having this same issue with the type of memory I was using. What memory are you using and did you edit the timings/voltage/frequency at all?

It could also be the double boot problem associated with some of the controllers on the board.


----------



## ThePope43

I am using the G.SKILL Sniper series 2x 4GB.

I made sure to place the memory stick in the correct slots according to the manual (to ensure maximum, correct usage)

It could possibly be that I have my dvd drive set to boot, maybe. I will adjust that and see what happens.


----------



## ThePope43

I believe I fixed the problem. I followed some of the steps from the OP and it seems to be fine now.

Also, can I officially be put on the owners list?

I have the P8:67 DELUXE


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThePope43*


I believe I fixed the problem. I followed some of the steps from the OP and it seems to be fine now.

Also, can I officially be put on the owners list?

I have the P8:67 DELUXE


Glad to hear you narrowed down your problems !







Was it the Marvell/JMicron controllers causing the problems, or was it Internal PLL Overvoltage??

Consider yourself a member of this Club !







You'll be added in a moment, ASUS P8P67 Deluxe owner !


----------



## Alex132

Whats the difference between the P8P67 Pro 3.0 and 3.1?
How do I know which version I have?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Whats the difference between the P8P67 Pro 3.0 and 3.1?
How do I know which version I have?


3.1 has other brand USB 3.0 controller. Look at the Motherboard PCB, there you will find what revision you have


----------



## Alex132

What was wrong with the previous brand?
Also where on the PCB? I think my 3 slot GPU is covering it lol!

EDIT: Its 3.0. Note:

Quote:



I'm not sure if the differences between rev 3.0 and 3.1 of the P8P67 Pro has already been posted but according to the specifications on Asus web page the difference seems to be the USB 3.0 controller. They have replaced the NEC controller with an ASMedia AMS1042.

The reason seems to be that the AsMedia chip is cheaper than the NEC counterpart. http://semiaccurate.com/2010/04/26/a...t-controllers/

Below are links to Asus web page for comparison. Check the USB section.


----------



## Boyboyd

I love sandy bridge



90 minutes stable. Going to leave it running while i go out.


----------



## ThePope43

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Glad to hear you narrowed down your problems !







Was it the Marvell/JMicron controllers causing the problems, or was it Internal PLL Overvoltage??

Consider yourself a member of this Club !







You'll be added in a moment, ASUS P8P67 Deluxe owner !



I can only assume it was the latter, because I did the first one then did a restarted along with a proper shut down and it did not help. After I did the latter, then it seemed to work.

Or it could be a combination of the two


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


What was wrong with the previous brand?
Also where on the PCB? I think my 3 slot GPU is covering it lol!

EDIT: Its 3.0. Note:


Yeah, If I remember right it is written on the PCB close to the upper PCI-E slot


----------



## billythekid2012

im using 0.060 offset high LLC
and how long should i run intl burn
and my ran is o/c from 1600 to 1866


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*


im using 0.060 offset high LLC
and how long should i run intl burn
and my ran is o/c from 1600 to 1866


try running 10, then 20, then 50 if you want.

For me 20 runs on maximum is fine along with 12hours of prime blend







good luck.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13632058*
> I love sandy bridge
> 
> 90 minutes stable. Going to leave it running while i go out.


What temps are you getting?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeoOG;13627349*
> I try what you advise and it didn't work...
> 
> Also I got this overheating couple of times while running prime 95 for a long period of time I think there's a bug how can I report or anybody here can report to Asus so they can fix on their next update?
> 
> Look at my MB its at 123C


I wouldn't be concerned, unless it was slowly going up to 123*C. If it just suddenly said that temp, then it's just a glitch. Ive gotten it much worse than you, and you don't see me getting worried.

























And here are some pics of my computer:








Sorry, not that one. Here they are:
















The rest can be found here.


----------



## turrican9

*nawon72*

Congrats with posting the number 500 post in this Club !









I'll add a link to your pictures in this Clubs first post !









Edit: Seems it was post 501







Actually it was *munaim1* who had the post number 500







. Thread info showed the wrong info, but the post number is correct









So congratz *munaim1* !


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13636015*
> *nawon72*
> 
> Congrats with posting the number 500 post in this Club !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll add a link to your pictures in this Clubs first post !


I think you made a mistake. It says #501 on my post. munaim1 has post #500


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13636179*
> I think you made a mistake. It says #501 on my post. munaim1 has post #500


Yeah, edited last post


----------



## Boyboyd

Well nawon got the 500th reply


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13636517*
> Well nawon got the 500th reply


Yeah, I was looking at the replies and then mixed it up with post numbers or something


----------



## Night197

Hi guys i'd like to join the club... got my 2600K running at 4.5 HT enabled but forgot my settings right now running at 4.4 with the auto o/c feature in the bios max temp 78 C anybody can suggest proper settings ?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Night197;13637168*
> Hi guys i'd like to join the club... got my 2600K running at 4.5 HT enabled but forgot my settings right now running at 4.4 with the auto o/c feature in the bios max temp 78 C anybody can suggest proper settings ?


Welcome to the Club !







Added !

just set the multi to 45 and try LLC at high or Ultra high. Up Vcore if needed.

I dont think you will need Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled for that multi.


----------



## Night197

tried that anytime i do that it stucks at the win loading screen.. or bsod error 124 when it boots (the hdd activity stop)


----------



## nawon72

How do you take a screenshot in the BIOS, and where does it save to? And is there an easy way to copy and past BIOS settings into notepad?


----------



## Night197

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13639066*
> How do you take a screenshot in the BIOS, and where does it save to? And is there an easy way to copy and past BIOS settings into notepad?


Well a numeric camera is the best and there is no way that i know of to cut and paste bios settings from notepad...


----------



## xira

My P8P67 Pro and NH-D14 came today - it came flashed with the latest BIOS









Tried the Automatic OC Extreme, had me at 5.0GHz.. checked the volts and it was at 1.5 so I very quickly turned that off. Tried it's first reccomendation @ 4.4GHz @ 1.3v and the temps seemd okay but I turned that off and reset to stock and decided I'm going to do a manual OC when I wake up tomorrow. Temps were all fine on my new Noctua NH-D14.

Cheers!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13639768*
> My P8P67 Pro and NH-D14 came today...


Your computer is very similar to mine. So i'm guessing you love it Just make sure your NH-D14 has expected temps, otherwise it may be faulty. My seems to be faulty because of the crap temps im getting for such an amazing HS. If your interested, the thread i made about it is here. You can try some of the testing that others recommended to me and i tried.

Which OC would you choose:
46Multi 100.9BCLK
47Multi 98.9BCLK
The other settings are the same.


----------



## Kreeker

If you guys didn't currently have a p67 board, would you guys go with a ASUS P8Z68-V PRO or some other z68 board? Or still go with a p67 board?

I'm trying to get as many opinions as possible!!!


----------



## Doodlebro

Woot. Literally my first try. Gonna try and increase more from here


















Don't worry... I'm watching the temps









Sorry for the weird looking desktop. Oblongtop.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kreeker;13640400*
> If you guys didn't currently have a p67 board, would you guys go with a ASUS P8Z68-V PRO or some other z68 board? Or still go with a p67 board?
> 
> I'm trying to get as many opinions as possible!!!


Hi !









Difficult question, as I'm sure all owners of these boards are in love with them







You can't go wrong with one though









If you don't need the features of the Z68 and if you can get a ASUS P8P67 cheaper, then why not









Many enthusiasts will still buy those Z68 motherboards with no Video out anyway. Many will also just use SSD's for what they are, not mate them with a Harddrive. If so, P67 is just as good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Night197;13638389*
> tried that anytime i do that it stucks at the win loading screen.. or bsod error 124 when it boots (the hdd activity stop)


Did you set the baseclock back to 100MHz? Also, try setting manual Vcore. Try 1.35v or more







You could also try to enable Internal PLL Overvoltage


----------



## turrican9

If anyone in this Club or others have suggestions or important info about these motherboards, and feel it belongs in the first posts of this Club, just let me know









Also, I wish more people with these motherboards series welcome to the Club


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13639962*
> Your computer is very similar to mine. So i'm guessing you love it Just make sure your NH-D14 has expected temps, otherwise it may be faulty. My seems to be faulty because of the crap temps im getting for such an amazing HS. If your interested, the thread i made about it is here. You can try some of the testing that others recommended to me and i tried.
> 
> Which OC would you choose:
> 46Multi 100.9BCLK
> 47Multi 98.9BCLK
> The other settings are the same.


Well the first burn in I tried it was over 10c cooler on load at stock with my h50. I'm already pretty happy with that.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13642414*
> Well the first burn in I tried it was over 10c cooler on load at stock with my h50. I'm already pretty happy with that.


Why not join the Club?


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13642591*
> Why not join the Club?


Sure


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13642599*
> Sure


Added !


----------



## Boyboyd

I love looking back at old threads like the "SB + SSD" one in your sig and seeing how many people who were complaining now have SSDs.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I love looking back at old threads like the "SB + SSD" one in your sig and seeing how many people who were complaining now have SSDs.


Excactly !














Through that whole thread I knew I was right. I had already been a SSD owner for a long time.

So I can imagine more and more of those people trolling in that thread now has SSD's and have seen 'the light'


----------



## Boyboyd

I agree that SSDs for storage is a stupid idea. But that' not the point of SSDs unless it's for enterprise DB storage.

Same goes for the "boycott COD:MW2" thread. On release date they all bought MW2.

Anyway i'm getting off-topic... I finally got my 2GHz overclock. I'm going to stop now, lol.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I agree that SSDs for storage is a stupid idea. But that' not the point of SSDs unless it's for enterprise DB storage.

Same goes for the "boycott COD:MW2" thread. On release date they all bought MW2.

Anyway i'm getting off-topic... I finally got my 2GHz overclock. I'm going to stop now, lol.


Here is a good one from that thread. Posted by *Jason4i7*

Quote:



Im going to have to agree with turrican9 on this one.

We are OCN. We overclock, push limits, and find boundaries that havent been found yet.

You are right here turrican9. people spend $600 plus on motherboard/cpu sets and cut out ssd.

Using the excuse that they aren't "safe" or that the price per gig is too high is a cop out. You can get a 60gig ssd for $100 now a days and get great performance enhancements. Its not just about boot times, but about how snappy the system responds. you spend an extra $100 on better ram. Why not get 1333 instead of the 1600 or 1800 or 2000. but you do.

You start in on how he's wrong, about how price is an issue.

Own one. Go out and buy one and see. It took me a while to finally break down and get one myself and it was "THE BEST BUY I EVEN MADE" Computer technology has come a long way. regular hard drives are equal to CRT monitors. while it may still work great, and produce, your missing out on the benefits you havent even experienced yet.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I love looking back at old threads like the "SB + SSD" one in your sig and seeing how many people who were complaining now have SSDs.


I hope you don't mean me!








Because I've had mine ages, and "I was just giving it mouth"









Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Excactly !














Through that whole thread I knew I was right. I had already been a SSD owner for a long time.

So I can imagine more and more of those people trolling in that thread now has SSD's and have seen 'the light'










*So if you had to choose! What one would you give up. SB or SSD*









Oh, and I got my new "Nice to use keyboard"








Looks like a Mac keyboard to me








HP Wireless Elite









Playing games is different because of the low keys! But they are so much better to type with and I'll soon adjust to using it









And yeah, so fare no pop up about over current


----------



## Boyboyd

I didn't mean anyone in particular, just commenting.

That keyboard is supposed to be pretty good. Even ripster thinks so, and he's the man to talk to about keyboards.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13642815*
> *So if you had to choose! What one would you give up. SB or SSD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I got my new "Nice to use keyboard"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a Mac keyboard to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HP Wireless Elite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing games is different because of the low keys! But they are so much better to type with and I'll soon adjust to using it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah, so fare no pop up about over current


If I sat on just a [email protected] and had to choose between Sandy or SSD, in the sence that I only had this choice, for the rest of my life, could never do anything with my system after this, i would have to say, the SSD. No doubt !









Every time I try a system using a harddrive I almost get sick. So enormous difference. Using a computer, even if it has a fast harddrive annoys me.

Congrats with your new keyboard. Crossing fingers for not getting that message again


----------



## xira

Okay, first manual OC on Intel/ASUS.

I manually set my RAM timings and the turbo ratio to 46 to start.

I then set my offset to 0.025

I then ran Intel Stress Test with 8 threads on standard.

Minimum CPU Voltage (idle): 1.01V Maximum CPU Voltage: 1.37V Load CPU Voltage (During IBT): 1.29V

Does this look okay? Should I lower my offset? I left everything on auto aside from disabling Internal PLL Overvoltage.

Max temp during IBT was: 54c 59c 59c 57c. Idle is 26 25 27 25 (RealTemp)
Max temp during IBT was 52c 57c 57c 55c Idle is 27 25 28 25 (CPUID Hardware Monitor)


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13642825*
> I didn't mean anyone in particular, just commenting.
> 
> That keyboard is supposed to be pretty good. Even ripster thinks so, and he's the man to talk to about keyboards.


It's all good dude








I was just hagging turrican9 in that post








Or was it the post that said "you aren't a enthusiast with out one" post









The keyboard!
Yeah it feels nice








And it's also nice not to have to push the keys down so far, just to type








Plus, being wireless i can bung it out the way when I play Dirt 3








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13643900*
> If I sat on just a [email protected] and had to choose between Sandy or SSD, in the sence that I only had this choice, for the rest of my life, could never do anything with my system after this, i would have to say, the SSD. No doubt !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every time I try a system using a harddrive I almost get sick. So enormous difference. Using a computer, even if it has a fast harddrive annoys me.
> 
> Congrats with your new keyboard. Crossing fingers for not getting that message again


SSD or die









Yeah, fingers crossed on the message popping up again


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13643907*
> Okay, first manual OC on Intel/ASUS.
> 
> I manually set my RAM timings and the turbo ratio to 46 to start.
> 
> I then set my offset to 0.025
> 
> I then ran Intel Stress Test with 8 threads on standard.
> 
> Minimum CPU Voltage (idle): 1.01V Maximum CPU Voltage: 1.37V Load CPU Voltage (During IBT): 1.29V
> 
> Does this look okay? Should I lower my offset? I left everything on auto aside from disabling Internal PLL Overvoltage.
> 
> Max temp during IBT was: 54c 59c 59c 57c. Idle is 26 25 27 25 (RealTemp)
> Max temp during IBT was 52c 57c 57c 55c Idle is 27 25 28 25 (CPUID Hardware Monitor)


I can't believe how my quieter my DH-14 is compared to my H50







Now, thoughts on the overclock? Need a little help. : P


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13644472*
> I can't believe how my quieter my DH-14 is compared to my H50
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, thoughts on the overclock? Need a little help. : P


Congratz with your DH-14 !







Glad you're happy with it !


----------



## Doodlebro

Can somebody help me out with offset overclocking? I just messed around with it and somehow (not the bug with offset) I had CPU voltage of like 1.8. Everything is still good.

Help?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doodlebro;13645911*
> Can somebody help me out with offset overclocking? I just messed around with it and somehow (not the bug with offset) I had CPU voltage of like 1.8. Everything is still good.
> 
> Help?


Can you explain a little more in detail what happened?


----------



## Doodlebro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13645945*
> Can you explain a little more in detail what happened?


I was just toying around seeing if I can get lower vcore using offset rather than manual (because a lot of people on here have done so) and I'm just trying to get a guide on it so I know what to enable or disable or set.


----------



## Night197

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13641102*
> Did you set the baseclock back to 100MHz? Also, try setting manual Vcore. Try 1.35v or more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also try to enable Internal PLL Overvoltage


I did right now priming it's at 3.6 under load cpuz says 1.328 max temp on core 2 is 78C is that too hot... ? so far so good.. I have found the cluprit thos for some reason my memory was not setup properly eventho i had aleready setted it up...


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Night197;13646287*
> I did right now priming it's at *3.6* under load cpuz says 1.328 max temp on core 2 is 78C is that too hot... ? so far so good.. I have found the cluprit thos for some reason my memory was not setup properly eventho i had aleready setted it up...


I would say thats a little bit too hot because if you leave it running it will likely go over 80*C. And what do you mean by 3.6?


----------



## Boyboyd

I personally try to keep mine under 72. I'm not sure if this is a number i've invented or what, but i think 78 is too hot.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13647716*
> I personally try to keep mine under 72. I'm not sure if this is a number i've invented or what, but i think 78 is too hot.


Wow!







I do the same with my 24/7 OC! And 72 is my favorite number


----------



## Night197

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13647489*
> I would say thats a little bit too hot because if you leave it running it will likely go over 80*C. And what do you mean by 3.6?


i meant 4.5 lol I plan on running stock 24/7 just pushing it but i find my 2600 k to be running hot... (compared to my E6600 or Q8400) S dunno if it's the cooler ...


----------



## xira

72.6c is sandy bridge's tcase max so it's a good number to go by


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13648701*
> 72.6c is sandy bridge's tcase max so it's a good number to go by


If your talking about SB's *TJ* max, then it is actually 98*C.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Night197;13648581*
> i meant 4.5 lol I plan on running stock 24/7 just pushing it but i find my 2600 k to be running hot... (compared to my E6600 or Q8400) S dunno if it's the cooler ...


I would compare your results with your cooler with someone else on the forum. It is possible that it is faulty. It could also be your ambient temp or case that adds to the heat.


----------



## Slayingelliott

Hey guys, just bought a P8P67 Deluxe motherboard and I saw that some people in this thread were looking for guides on how to overclock their motherboard. I know there are some located on the first page of this thread, but I also found this guide EXTREMELY useful for those who are just getting into overclocking.

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overc...beginners.html

I hope external links are allowed, if not, feel free to remove it.


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13649806*
> If your talking about SB's *TJ* max, then it is actually 98*C.
> 
> I would compare your results with your cooler with someone else on the forum. It is possible that it is faulty. It could also be your ambient temp or case that adds to the heat.


i didn't typo, i said tcase max. lol


----------



## xira

UPDATE:
Seems like 4.5GHz is stable in IBT with a +0.05 offset, but I'm curious on how to trim down my Max voltage (not full load). My max voltage is 1.34V but during load I'm only at 1.28V - how would I bring down the disparity? I was at 4.6GHz but it needed a +0.015V offset.

Thoughts?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13655552*
> UPDATE:
> Seems like 4.5GHz is stable in IBT with a +0.05 offset, but I'm curious on how to trim down my Max voltage (not full load). My max voltage is 1.34V but during load I'm only at 1.28V - how would I bring down the disparity? I was at 4.6GHz but it needed a +0.015V offset.
> 
> Thoughts?


You need to set the Load Line Calibration adjustment to Ultra High LLC to fix that.


----------



## Boyboyd

What is your LLC set to?

Is there even an LLC setting if you have offset enabled?


----------



## Alex132

Yeah manual only disables the offset feature.
I heard that people have adjusted the VCCIO to fix idle x0124 BSOD's, what did they do exactly?
If so how much more less?


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13655564*
> You need to set the Load Line Calibration adjustment to Ultra High LLC to fix that.


Thanks so much, I'll try that right now. I'm guessing it's healthy for the CPU with no adverse effects? It's on Auto right now.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13655622*
> Thanks so much, I'll try that right now. I'm guessing it's healthy for the CPU with no adverse effects? It's on Auto right now.


No worry, most of us use Ultra High LLC.


----------



## Alex132

Make sure you have these settings in the BIOS:


----------



## pdiomidis

Hello guys i own p8p67 deluxe for about 2 months.. i wait for my watercooling kit to start overclocking my 2600K







i want to tell you guys a problem i have! I have bought x2 pairs of corsair 2x2gb 2133mhz! so i have 8gb in 2133! the problem is that when i make memtest86 i got too much erros at that speeds! When i plug dims alone are working fine or if i use them all together at lower speeds (auto) 1333 no errord appear! Do you know what i have to do to run them for exaple about 2000mhz or even 2133?

sorry for my bad english


----------



## turrican9

All these settings are posted with pictures in this Clubs second post.


----------



## xira

Hmmm Ultra LLC increased the max voltage to 1.37 and kept it to the high end of the voltage but I see that's what it's purpose is. I was actually asking if it was possible to trim down the high-end voltage on non-load since I only needed 1.28V at load. Hmmm

EDIT: Temps on every setting sofar have been under 60C I'm just worried about long-term voltage. What do you guys think is appropriate? I've read not to exceed 1.35V, 1.4V, 1.5V etc


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdiomidis;13655686*
> Hello guys i own p8p67 deluxe for about 2 months.. i wait for my watercooling kit to start overclocking my 2600K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i want to tell you guys a problem i have! I have bought x2 pairs of corsair 2x2gb 2133mhz! so i have 8gb in 2133! the problem is that when i make memtest86 i got too much erros at that speeds! When i plug dims alone are working fine or if i use them all together at lower speeds (auto) 1333 no errord appear! Do you know what i have to do to run them for exaple about 2000mhz or even 2133?
> 
> sorry for my bad english


What are the DIMM's EXACTLY?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13655705*
> Hmmm Ultra LLC increased the max voltage to 1.37 and kept it to the high end of the voltage but I see that's what it's purpose is. I was actually asking if it was possible to trim down the high-end voltage on non-load since I only needed 1.28V at load. Hmmm
> 
> EDIT: Temps on every setting sofar have been under 60C I'm just worried about long-term voltage. What do you guys think is appropriate? I've read not to exceed 1.35V, 1.4V, 1.5V etc


1.4 and under is good for 24/7, I would say 1.45 and under for watercooling.


----------



## pdiomidis

http://www.corsair.com/memory/dominator/dominator-gt.html

these are my dims.. two pairs.. so should i use them at 1866 for every day use? or 1600?


----------



## Alex132

If they dont work at the rated 2133 speed, RMA them


----------



## pdiomidis

they work mate but when all 4 dims work at 2133 i have errors at memtest86 but when i run them at lower speeds i don't have any errors..


----------



## Alex132

Exactly. They don't work at their rated spec, RMA them


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdiomidis;13655838*
> http://www.corsair.com/memory/dominator/dominator-gt.html
> 
> these are my dims.. two pairs.. so should i use them at 1866 for every day use? or 1600?


I see you are wearing this Clubs Signature and are not on the members list. I'll add you


----------



## pdiomidis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13655895*
> Exactly. They don't work at their rated spec, RMA them


hmm i will send a message to corsair and we will see







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13655910*
> I see you are wearing this Clubs Signature and are not on the members list. I'll add you


hehe i am new here as you see! thanks alot







)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdiomidis;13655965*
> hmm i will send a message to corsair and we will see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe i am new here as you see! thanks alot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Welcome new member !







I've added you


----------



## pdiomidis

when i finish with watercooling my cpu and vga i will post a picture too see my MB







hehe


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdiomidis;13656012*
> when i finish with watercooling my cpu and vga i will post a picture too see my MB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe


Looking forward to that !


----------



## Alex132

Cant wait to get the last bit of cash for my WC-Loop :3
SSD LAAAAATER >_>

WC-loop - RAM - SSD - GPU


----------



## turrican9

People, there is a new bios for the ASUS P8P67 PRO on the FTP server ! 1606! Dated 27th of may ! It is not posted on their webpage yet !

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67_PRO/


----------



## Alex132

What does it change?
If its offset voltage I'm in and gonna adjust some settings for lower vcore with 4.8Ghz


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13656137*
> What does it change?
> If its offset voltage I'm in and gonna adjust some settings for lower vcore with 4.8Ghz


There is no readme in the bios archive file. And they haven't posted it on their webpage yet. Probably very new.


----------



## Alex132

Will post some overclocking results if it did change anything than XD


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13655672*
> Make sure you have these settings in the BIOS:


Okay I set these settings exactly in the BIOS. Although they increased my maximum load thermals, I was able to run at 4.6 and even 4.7 at the same voltages (Max 1.38V) and it kept the vdroop much disparity much lower during load.

Some concern though in regards to testing:

I'm running IntelBurnTest v2.51 by AgentGOD - no crashes during standard, but my GFLops are much lower than on the first page results (Around 59GFlops at a much higher clock) What is the reason for this? Also, is Standard an acceptable Test? I tried Maximum but it seems to take MUCH longer.

Cheers


----------



## turrican9

There are also new bioses for ASUS P8P67 Vanilla, EVO and deluxe. 1608, 1606 and 1606.

Vanilla - ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67/
EVO - ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67_EVO/
Deluxe - ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67_DELUXE/


----------



## xira

Also, I'm not sure if it's worth running at 4.7/4.8 for the increased voltage/thermals... But then again, with a +.005 offset I couldn't seem to get more lower than 1.37V max voltage vs my 1.38 right now so I dunno...


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13656175*
> Okay I set these settings exactly in the BIOS. Although they increased my maximum load thermals, I was able to run at 4.6 and even 4.7 at the same voltages (Max 1.38V) and it kept the vdroop much disparity much lower during load.
> 
> Some concern though in regards to testing:
> 
> I'm running IntelBurnTest v2.51 by AgentGOD - no crashes during standard, but my GFLops are much lower than on the first page results (Around 59GFlops at a much higher clock) What is the reason for this? Also, is Standard an acceptable Test? I tried Maximum but it seems to take MUCH longer.
> 
> Cheers


Use Prime95 Blend.
You're IBT doesn't have the new linpacks installed, which increase the temp beyond unrealistically and it does the same for the GFlops.

I would recommend sticking with Prime95 blend and let it run overnight or something


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13656234*
> Use Prime95 Blend.
> You're IBT doesn't have the new linpacks installed, which increase the temp beyond unrealistically and it does the same for the GFlops.
> 
> I would recommend sticking with Prime95 blend and let it run overnight or something


Temps seem to be lower during blend in p95. Should I do custom with 7GB memory usage instead?


----------



## Alex132

Custom -

Min FFT Size (In K)
Quote:


> 4


Max FFT Size (In K)
Quote:


> 8192


Memory To Use (in MB)
Quote:


> 7168


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13656224*
> Also, I'm not sure if it's worth running at 4.7/4.8 for the increased voltage/thermals... But then again, with a +.005 offset I couldn't seem to get more lower than 1.37V max voltage vs my 1.38 right now so I dunno...


Again at 4.5 I was at 1.34V max and 1.28V at load, and at 4.7 (benching now) I'm at 1.38V max and 1.37/1.38V at load with about 10c higher load (59/60c @ 4.6 vs 69/70c @ 4.7) But it seems a lot of the additional heat was due to tweaking to the VRM/LLC settings above

Thoughts?


----------



## turrican9

I use Blend Custom and type in 6000MB. I have 8GB Mem.

I've updated first post in this Club with information of the new bioses for the whole series.


----------



## MacNcheese

Hey!
Im in...

Heres a link to my pics
http://www.overclock.net/intel-build-logs/1012712-my-sandy-bridge-build-log-kind.html#post13461627


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MacNcheese;13656381*
> Hey!
> Im in...
> 
> Heres a link to my pics
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-build-logs/1012712-my-sandy-bridge-build-log-kind.html#post13461627


Welcome new member !







I'll add you in a moment !


----------



## xira

Are these temp disparities okay?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13656501*
> Are these temp disparities okay?


Yes, they are all good


----------



## Alex132

Just updated to 1606 Fine, my vcore is ROCK solid with offset now!








Gonna try get lower Vcore and higher overclocks on my RAM to see what else is affected.
Also Cold boot bug seems to be fixed


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13656529*
> Just updated to 1606 Fine, my vcore is ROCK solid with offset now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna try get lower Vcore and higher overclocks on my RAM to see what else is affected.
> Also Cold boot bug seems to be fixed


Is it totally locked at the setting you selected when LLC at Ultra High??


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13656529*
> Just updated to 1606 Fine, my vcore is ROCK solid with offset now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna try get lower Vcore and higher overclocks on my RAM to see what else is affected.
> Also Cold boot bug seems to be fixed


What method did you use to flash your BIOS? Also, do you think it's worth upgrading?

EDIT: Also, is RealTemp more accurate than CPUID Hardware Monitor? RT shows 72c max and HWMonitor shows 70c max







Sorry for all the questions!


----------



## Nethermir

Can I join? Plus I have a question lol.

I dont have my mobo pic yet but I have the CPU-Z http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1838553

I am using ASUS P8P67 (rev 3.0), made a quick OC of i5-2500K to 4.0 Ghz, got my G.Skill Ripjaws (2x2 GB) placed on light blue slots but CPU-Z says that I do not have dual channel. Is there anything that I need to do to get dual channel enabled?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13656812*
> Can I join? Plus I have a question lol.
> 
> I doint have my mobo pic yet but I have the CPU-Z http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1838553
> 
> I am using ASUS P8P67 (rev 3.0), made a quick OC of i5-2500K to 4.0 Ghz, got my G.Skill Ripjaws (2x2 GB) placed on light blue slots but CPU-Z says that I do not have dual channel. Is there anything that I need to do to get dual channel enabled?


Hi ! Welcome to the Club !







I'll add you in a moment !









That was strange man ! You should have Dual channel. Have you tried with other programs, like AIDA 64 ?


----------



## Thogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13655672*
> Make sure you have these settings in the BIOS:


is that in the EUFI or within windows, if so can it be used with the pro, and can you change vcore within windows so you dont have to reboot into the UEFI?
sorry for noobish questions but i need to test some voltages and that would be helpful if possible lol.


----------



## Nethermir

Thanks turrican9! I have not tried AIDA64 yet coz this is something that I noticed 3 minutes before I went to work. I'll try that when I get home


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thogar;13657000*
> is that in the EUFI or within windows, if so can it be used with the pro, and can you change vcore within windows so you dont have to reboot into the UEFI?
> sorry for noobish questions but i need to test some voltages and that would be helpful if possible lol.


That is in Windows, and does work on the Pro


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thogar;13657000*
> is that in the EUFI or within windows, if so can it be used with the pro, and can you change vcore within windows so you dont have to reboot into the UEFI?
> sorry for noobish questions but i need to test some voltages and that would be helpful if possible lol.






http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s0TrScwdoE[/ame[/URL]]

Visual representation always helps









I use RealTemp 3.6.7, its more accurate for Intel CPU's.
I wouldn't change any overclocking settings within Windows, it could lead to instabilities unrelated to voltage and you wouldn't know it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13656548*
> What method did you use to flash your BIOS? Also, do you think it's worth upgrading?
> 
> EDIT: Also, is RealTemp more accurate than CPUID Hardware Monitor? RT shows 72c max and HWMonitor shows 70c max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for all the questions!


Above


----------



## xira

Wow I feel kind of silly. I installed Win7 SP1 and now IBT seems to stress much better resulting in higher gflops/temps.


----------



## xira

Question: When using offset voltage (Still using +0.005V) I've tried 44, 45, 47 and 48 Multi and all use relatively the same voltages. (.97-1v min, 1.37-1.38 Max) Is this normal and intended? I thought maybe I could try 44 for lower voltages but it doesn't seem that way with offset. Keep in mind I'm still using the Digi VRM+ settings suggested a few pages earlier and on Page 2 (Ultra LLC, etc)


----------



## Alex132

Yeah offset can fluctuate really weirdly, that is why I changed to manual voltage previously. But now I have updated to 1606 BIOS that fluctuation has gone, and I can get a 0.005v lower (tiny bit, but every bit counts







)

So either use manual, or update to 1606 to see if it benefits you too.


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13658860*
> Yeah offset can fluctuate really weirdly, that is why I changed to manual voltage previously. But now I have updated to 1606 BIOS that fluctuation has gone, and I can get a 0.005v lower (tiny bit, but every bit counts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> So either use manual, or update to 1606 to see if it benefits you too.


I unzipped the ROM to my thumbdrive but when I select Read/Load file in the ez flash utility like in the video it says: Not a UEFI image!


----------



## Alex132

follow the video?
redownload it


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13659078*
> follow the video?
> redownload it


Yep. "Selected file is not a EFI BIOS !"

Copied it to my thumb drive exactly as in the video. It's formatted in NTFS and has Windows 7 on it but it looks like his thumb drive also had files on it. Also tried the one on my desktop.


----------



## Alex132

needs to be FAT32 (the thumb drive)


----------



## xira

That would explain it!


----------



## Alex132

Didn't know flash drives could be NTFS unless they're larger than 32Gb.


----------



## xira

Flashed and confirmed there's less of a droop in voltage









using +0.005 offset @ 47x max voltage under load is 1.40V and it fluctuates between 1.39 and 1.40 - Temps during latest IBT (Latest Linpack + SP1) show a maximum of 77c on the third core and since these temps are supposed to be unrealistically synthetic I'll do some more real-world usage testing (gaming, rendering) and maybe some Prime blend. But this looks like my 24/7 OC for now.







Thanks for the help everyone


----------



## Alex132

Try x48 at that, should work.
Don't use IBT, use Prime95. IBT stresses it the same as Prime95, but results in stupidly higher temps. Also see if you can get your RAM close as possible to ~1.5v, puts less stress on the CPU IMC


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13659561*
> Try x48 at that, should work.
> Don't use IBT, use Prime95. IBT stresses it the same as Prime95, but results in stupidly higher temps. Also see if you can get your RAM close as possible to ~1.5v, puts less stress on the CPU IMC


IBT seems to more quickly rule out a bad OC on my anecdote. It ruled out x48 pretty quickly at this offset. RAM is already at 1.5v or slightly higher @ 1600 (let it set auto voltage which it picks 1.5006 or something like that)


----------



## Alex132

Bad OC because of temps or instability?
Thats why I use blend


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13659727*
> Bad OC because of temps or instability?
> Thats why I use blend










how long for blend? kinda wanna test with some games now at 4.7


----------



## Alex132

Well I leave it as long as possible, so 6 hours? But it normally fails within the first ~15 mins if there is something wrong


----------



## turrican9

Any of you tried the new bioses?


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13660104*
> Any of you tried the new bioses?


I did and described my experience in the first post on this page


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13660111*
> I did and described my experience in the first post on this page


How nice...







This is very good news. Thank you


----------



## nawon72

BIOS 1606 didn't seem to fix the offset bug i was having. Ill do more testing to confirm. It could also be some setting that isn't Vcore related. Any ideas? BTW, i got the same 124 BSOD while watching youtube/browsing web but i did fine with linx for 5min and P95 blend for 10min.


----------



## xira

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


BIOS 1606 didn't seem to fix the offset bug i was having. Ill do more testing to confirm. It could also be some setting that isn't Vcore related. Any ideas? BTW, i got the same 124 BSOD while watching youtube/browsing web but i did fine with linx for 5min and P95 blend for 10min.


what settings?


----------



## RomeoOG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


BIOS 1606 didn't seem to fix the offset bug i was having. Ill do more testing to confirm. It could also be some setting that isn't Vcore related. Any ideas? BTW, i got the same 124 BSOD while watching youtube/browsing web but i did fine with linx for 5min and P95 blend for 10min.


You need more voltage, need to let it run atleast 12 to 24 hrs to make sure its reliable.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RomeoOG*


You need more voltage, need to let it run atleast 12 to 24 hrs to make sure its reliable.


Ive tried running Prime95 for an hour on 1502 and it was stable. Then i was web browsing and i get BSOD 124. In the end, i found out I could get stable with a lower voltage by using manual. With 1606 i still seem to have this problem. Ill take a screenshot of my settings and post it after some more testing.

Below you can see what i posted soon after joining the club.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Here's my first question:
Im able run Prime95 Blend for 1Hr, but when i browse the web or do something that doesnt stress the CPU i BSOD. Usually 124, but more Vcore didnt help. So im thinking that offset doesnt work for me at 4.8Ghz. But i have no problems with offset at 4.6Ghz.


The owner of the club(turrican9) responded:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Yes, I also stated that this was something each person must test themselves for their overclock/system.

I tested this at 4.5GHz.

So I don't know how well it works using Offset at those higher speeds. It seems you have found something interesting here.

I know *grunion*, the man who gave me this information about using Offset was better, he used it for his 4.8GHz overclock.


----------



## grunion

I use offset with 6 different profiles, ranging from default clocks to my suicidal 5.4GHz profile.

At anyone using the 1606 bios, does it fix the offset over voltage bug?


----------



## Nethermir

Would this indicate that i am running dual channel?


----------



## grunion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


Would this indicate that i am running dual channel?











Seems so, cpu-z will also show.

Attachment 212699


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13663177*
> Would this indicate that i am running dual channel?


Yes, it seems so









Download MaxxMEM and run a benchmark. It will clearly show if you actually have Dual Channel.


----------



## ACHILEE5

What one is the new bios for my mobo


----------



## Boyboyd

The 3rd from bottom one I think.

1606.zip


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13665062*
> What one is the new bios for my mobo


It's the 1606. If you don't have the Rev. 3.1 board that is.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13665088*
> It's the 1606. If you don't have the Rev. 3.1 board that is.


So third from the bottom








"If you don't have the Rev. 3.1 board"








IDK








But the last bios file I did was OK. So I'll give it a go


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13665120*
> So third from the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "If you don't have the Rev. 3.1 board"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IDK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the last bios file I did was OK. So I'll give it a go


There were released a new version of the PRO, called Rev 3.1. Only difference is that it uses a cheaper USB 3.0 controller.

You're fine, since you will get a message if it is the wrong bios, and it will not flash. Nothing to worry about.

btw: The rev 3.1 only has one bios release. The 0105


----------



## turrican9

*ACHILEE5*

By the way, you can get rid of that 'Tiny' bit in your signature !







As I've removed it some time ago, since we have quite a few members now









*Also, this is my 3K post on the OCN !*


----------



## Alex132

Nice haha, got 2000 yesterday after about 120 posts in one day







XD


----------



## Boyboyd

I remember when my post count went up by 5000 overnight. They moved the member run clubs out of off-topic temporarily and all the posts i'd made in the british club got added to my total.

True story.


----------



## Alex132

Mine would go up about 5k then too


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13665209*
> *ACHILEE5*
> 
> By the way, you can get rid of that 'Tiny' bit in your signature !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I've removed it some time ago, since we have quite a few members now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Also, this is my 3K post on the OCN !*


OK bud








What about the Corner?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13665132*
> There were released a new version of the PRO, called Rev 3.1. Only difference is that it uses a cheaper USB 3.0 controller.
> 
> You're fine, since you will get a message if it is the wrong bios, and it will not flash. Nothing to worry about.
> 
> btw: The rev 3.1 only has one bios release. The 0105


All sorted bud


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13666340*
> OK bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about the Corner?


I kept the 'Corner'







As I like to think of it as a kozy corner club or something









Tried the new bios? Any difference? I've yet to flash mine


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13666358*
> I kept the 'Corner'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I like to think of it as a kozy corner club or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the new bios? Any difference? I've yet to flash mine


Corner sounds ???









But yeah, bios flashed a treat, thanks


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13665209*
> 
> *Also, this is my 3K post on the OCN !*


Congratz man..
















CHEERS..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13666377*
> Corner sounds ???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, bios flashed a treat, thanks


If you think Corner don't fit in the name I will consider removing it from the signatures. I listen to great members


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13666411*
> Congratz man..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


Thanks !







Your next !


----------



## turrican9

I've revised all three Club signatures again. Removed the 'Corner' part of them.
Quote:


> *First Option -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]The ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]
> 
> *Second Option -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The ASUS P8P67 Series Owners Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]The ASUS P8P67 Series Owners Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]
> 
> *Third Option. Combined Signature -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The ASUS P8P67 Series/PRO Owners Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]The ASUS P8P67 Series/PRO Owners Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13666585*
> I've revised all three Club signatures again. Removed the 'Corner' part of them.


Nice one mate. You're a good man








And a good club leader


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13666882*
> Nice one mate. You're a good man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a good club leader


Thanks mate ! Appreciate good feedback !







But a Club is nothing without great Club members, like you and many others !


----------



## Nethermir

I guess CPU-Z have some issues detecting dual channel on ASUS P8P67?


----------



## Boyboyd

Why is the DRAM:FSB Ratio 24:3 and not 8:1?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13666895*
> Thanks mate ! Appreciate good feedback !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But a Club is nothing without great Club members, like you and many others !


Yep, you have a good attitude! And you make us all feel like it's our club!








10/10 mate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13666955*
> Why is the DRAM:FSB Ratio 24:3 and not 8:1?


Mine says the same


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13666955*
> Why is the DRAM:FSB Ratio 24:3 and not 8:1?


Mine says the same, 20:3 for AIDA64 and 5:1 for CPU-Z (5:1 doesn't work?)


----------



## xira

Stable at 4.8!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13669148*
> Stable at 4.8!


Congrats ! Happy for you !


----------



## Alex132

I need about $500 for water cooling >_>
Have $200 of that now


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13669474*
> I need about $500 for water cooling >_>
> Have $200 of that now


Look forward to that. Thinking of how insanely great CPU you have


----------



## Alex132

Its $330 for the actual items, $170 for shipping/tax. Yay south africa


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xira*


Stable at 4.8!










Congrats! I'm excited to OC mine further but my temps idles at 33-35C on Hyper 212+, need to get a better heatsink fan I guess


----------



## xira

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


Congrats! I'm excited to OC mine further but my temps idles at 33-35C on Hyper 212+, need to get a better heatsink fan I guess










Are those temps with EIST/SpeedStep downclock? Manual voltage or offset?


----------



## Alex132

I get 28'c idle, Downclocks but doesn't undervolt. Used to get lower 20's when it did.


----------



## xira

Yeah I idle at high 20s low 30s but that's with EIST/downvolting. But idle temps aren't as relevant as load.


----------



## Nethermir

Only manual voltage at the moment. Running IBT, the temps go about 55-60C. Hopefully I would be able to tweak this more later. When I at people's signatures with 4.8+ Ghz, I get really envious lol


----------



## xira

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


Only manual voltage at the moment. Running IBT, the temps go about 55-60C. Hopefully I would be able to tweak this more later. When I at people's signatures with 4.8+ Ghz, I get really envious lol


The latest IBT (Latest Linpack+SP1) temps are extremely unrealistic and many have said this. With that said, 55-60 in IBT is quite low for a maximum potential OC, so I wouldn't let it discourage you. I max out in the high 70's low 80's in IBT and I don't think twice about it. Even prime 95 temps are supposed to be unrealistic (and they're on average more than 10c lower than the latest IBT), and IBT adds another layer on top of that. IBT is good at quickly ruling out a bad OC especially in regards to voltage, not so much a guideline to decipher load temperatures IMO.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13671865*
> The latest IBT (Latest Linpack+SP1) temps are extremely unrealistic and many have said this. With that said, 55-60 in IBT is quite low for a maximum potential OC, so I wouldn't let it discourage you. I max out in the high 70's low 80's in IBT and I don't think twice about it. Even prime 95 temps are supposed to be unrealistic (and they're on average more than 10c lower than the latest IBT), and IBT adds another layer on top of that. IBT is good at quickly ruling out a bad OC especially in regards to voltage, not so much a guideline to decipher load temperatures IMO.


Well spoken !

Personally I don't use IBT anymore.

Prime95 Blend Custom for 12 hours + is what I use.


----------



## munaim1

New 1606 BIOS for the P8P67 PRO. Thought I'd share this here as well









Quote:


> 1606 and others (Check Source for others) Changelog :
> 
> 1. Enhance support for Game Port on old audio cards.
> 2. Enhance SATA compatibility
> 3. Enhance mouse/keyboard support under UEFI
> 4. Enhance USB2.0 / 3.0 legacy support
> 5. Enhance PCIE compatibility
> 6. Enable support of CAS = 4 DDRIII-1333 modules


SOURCE


----------



## WuLF

Hey all!

I have a P8P67 PRO !

Can I join in on the club?? =] <3


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WuLF;13673167*
> Hey all!
> 
> I have a P8P67 PRO !
> 
> Can I join in on the club?? =] <3


Of course you can !







Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you in a moment !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13673141*
> New 1606 BIOS for the P8P67 PRO. Thought I'd share this here as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SOURCE


Thanks!

Added in first page

btw: I posted those new bioses in this club the day they appeared on the ftp server. the 27th of May


----------



## WuLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13673209*
> Of course you can !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the Club mate !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll add you in a moment !


Thanks, turrican! =]

Testing sweet new signature!

Also, just updated to the 1606 BIOS update too! wewT!


----------



## Boyboyd

Removed


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13675459*
> Removed


Thanks man


----------



## Boyboyd

NP

Any member with more than 250 rep can remove a spam post. I believe all it does is hide it from the general forum until a real mod can delete the post. And it doesn't on posts from members with more than 5 posts.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13675507*
> NP
> 
> Any member with more than 250 rep can remove a spam post. I believe all it does is hide it from the general forum until a real mod can delete the post. And it doesn't on posts from members with more than 5 posts.


Good information !









I've just flashed the 1606 bios. Lost my saved profiles though.

Testing right now. Will try overclocking. Maybe it has some magic


----------



## turrican9

My CPU-Z shows Dual Channel mode. I use the two blue slots. CPU-Z version 1.57.1.










Problem here is most likely CPU-Z version 1.57. Needs to be version 1.57.1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13666943*
> I guess CPU-Z have some issues detecting dual channel on ASUS P8P67?


----------



## Alex132

I'm curious, how come I never see anyone with CL6 on DDR3? is CL7 the lowest plausible stability or something?

EDIT: Nvm, found some really old DDR3 with CL6, but 1.8v D:!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13676411*
> I'm curious, how come I never see anyone with CL6 on DDR3? is CL7 the lowest plausible stability or something?


it's possible to do with some kits, I believe mine should be able to do cl6, but instead I opted for speed than timings. Doesn't really make a difference in everday use, only benching ie. superpi is where you will see a difference.


----------



## HOTDOGS

I'm running at 3.4 GHZ atm but how do I turboboost to 3.8? I don't want to push it too much now? Isn't there a turbo boost on the board or in the BIOS somewhere?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13677320*
> I'm running at 3.4 GHZ atm but how do I turboboost to 3.8? I don't want to push it too much now? Isn't there a turbo boost on the board or in the BIOS somewhere?


Go under the Advanced menu and activate 'Turbo'


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13676411*
> I'm curious, how come I never see anyone with CL6 on DDR3? is CL7 the lowest plausible stability or something?
> 
> EDIT: Nvm, found some really old DDR3 with CL6, but 1.8v D:!


Here is a G. Skill 1.5V.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13678895*
> Here is a G. Skill 1.5V.


Good stuff

I have the cl7 kit and it does 2133 perfectly fine, those will probably do it a swell.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Turbo is enabled but when I check I still am at 3.5 ghz, better than 3.4 but I wanna go to 3.8....


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13679440*
> Turbo is enabled but when I check I still am at 3.5 ghz, better than 3.4 but I wanna go to 3.8....


Set your Turbo multi to x38 in bios


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13679440*
> Turbo is enabled but when I check I still am at 3.5 ghz, better than 3.4 but I wanna go to 3.8....


Thats when you use Prime95 to stress it right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13679457*
> Set your Turbo multi to x38 in bios


Set your "name of setting at very top of second page" to manual, then do the above. I could also be that your CPU is too hot? Turbo only activates if your CPU can handle it.


----------



## turrican9

*HOTDOGS*

Everything you need to know is posted step by step, with bios pictures, in this Clubs second post.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Bamn! Thanks guys!


----------



## BartOZ

Hello fellow overclockers,

i've been using these forums for a long time for my research on any problems i've had with my previous system and that ran great but it's abit outdated.

so about 2 weeks ago i took some cash from under my pillow and bought a monster pc.
i'm not new to building my custom pc but i've had some problems and can't find any answers anywhere.

1st of all i'm having coil noise from PSU, i'm aware that this can't be helped and ill exchange it soon for a fresh one, from what i've read there is only the anoying noise not fluxations on the rails so i've been testing in this noise. I'm however suspecting the psu could be responsible for the following 2 issues.

issue1: 30-40 secs freezes (not black screens) during browsing the web or navigating my windows explorer, i have found error logs waring about iastor0 not responding in time ( i'm pretty sure the iastor0 refers to hdd0 wich would be my ssd (read up on that and tried firmware update but it has the latest)

issue2: i've been having screen freezes in games (especially heavy games) plz note that these freezes throw my monitor full with vertical yellow bars (sound still going, even g15 clock still ticking) waited like 15min but crashes hard, reset only option.

games that crash arround 15-20 min:
Crysis 2 (all settings max)
GTA4 (all settings max)

games that i can play for hours and hours:
World of Warcraft (all settings max)
NFS Shift2 (all settings max)

now for the questions :
could these problems all come from the faulty PSU ?
is my SSD defective ?
these game crashes are driver or hardware related ?

plz note that i have to travel 150km to the computerstore i bought this at and if i go swap my PSU i hate to go again next week and swap the gfx card or harddisk. i'll pickup a heatsink that will allow my memory inserted while there is a fan on it aswell wich could be the 212 that everyone is using









btw all my temps and voltages are completely normal all the time.

i hope anyone has an answer or two to these questions.
thnx in advance

BartOZ


----------



## RomeoOG

I got a new problem with Offset, got everything set was running at 4800 @ .80 Volts ran Prime95 for 8 hrs works great, then I was watching movies for 3-4 hrs and for a blue screen with code 124.

I think there's a Bug with Offset and I hope they fix it soon, now i'm back to set the voltage manual currently retesting my cpu at 4800 @ 1.435V did it at 1.430 last night it ran for 8 hrs and got a black screen.

This morning I re-run it and up to 1.435 and turn off PL Overtage, hopefully its stable now.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeoOG;13680314*
> I got a new problem with Offset, got everything set was running at 4800 @ .80 Volts ran Prime95 for 8 hrs works great, then I was watching movies for 3-4 hrs and for a blue screen with code 124.
> 
> I think there's a Bug with Offset and I hope they fix it soon, now i'm back to set the voltage manual currently retesting my cpu at 4800 @ 1.435V did it at 1.430 last night it ran for 8 hrs and got a black screen.
> 
> This morning I re-run it and up to 1.435 and turn off PL Overtage, hopefully its stable now.


There is an offset bug, and i get it the same as you. Except my CPU requires less Vcore, and i BSOD 124 a little faster(1-2hrs).

I am amazed that you can boot at 4.8GHz without PLL Overvoltage. But turning it off probably won't increase stability. Try turning Load Line Calibration(LLC) to high or ultra high. That might help, if you didn't already do that.


----------



## ThePope43

Ok so this is my 6th PC build, but first time overclocking.

Anyone here interested on talking to me on AIM to help out with the process?

I have P8P67 Deluxe

i7 2600k (Silver Arrow cooler)

G.Skill Sniper 2x 4GB

If so, here's my AIM and I am always on: Xpope43X


----------



## ThePope43

So, am following this tutorial: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overc...beginners.html

and I did everything as followed for the OC'ing to 4GHz, and Windows bluescreens on boot and the mobo says Overclocking failed.

Do I need to increase the Vcore more? If so, how much?


----------



## RomeoOG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


There is an offset bug, and i get it the same as you. Except my CPU requires less Vcore, and i BSOD 124 a little faster(1-2hrs).

I am amazed that you can boot at 4.8GHz without PLL Overvoltage. But turning it off probably won't increase stability. Try turning Load Line Calibration(LLC) to high or ultra high. That might help, if you didn't already do that.


My Load Line Calibration always on Ultra High, if I lower it to High I get Bsod the munite I run prime95

The reason I turn it off because from 4800 and up I get double post means when I turn on from a cold boot it turn off once or twice before it loads up.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThePope43*


So, am following this tutorial: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overc...beginners.html

and I did everything as followed for the OC'ing to 4GHz, and Windows bluescreens on boot and the mobo says Overclocking failed.

Do I need to increase the Vcore more? If so, how much?


Try 0.005 increments?

----

Also, can anyone suggest improvements on my OC (newbie OCer here), I am going for 4.5 Ghz using offset and here are my settings:

VRM = manual (350)
Phase = Extreme
Duty = T.Probe
Offset + (0.040)
Ram = 1.5v
The rest is default/auto

This is only IBT 10-run stable, I use it to somewhat gauge stability. Max temps are in the low 70s. Are these good settings? I can go down to 0.020 but it only passes IBT 5 runs and fails at 10 runs.


----------



## dklimitless

Guys, I've got a question on the serial number on the p8p67 pro. Is it the sticker (with bar code, etc.) on the top end of the board (near the ram) or the one on the SATA ports? :s
(ASUS keeps rejecting the serial number that's why I'm asking )

EDIT:

Nvm, got it. Seems something else was wrong. Registered now and a proud member of the club


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dklimitless*


Guys, I've got a question on the serial number on the p8p67 pro. Is it the sticker (with bar code, etc.) on the top end of the board (near the ram) or the one on the SATA ports? :s
(ASUS keeps rejecting the serial number that's why I'm asking )

EDIT:

Nvm, got it. Seems something else was wrong. Registered now and a proud member of the club










Why are you Registering it








Do we all need to register our boards?

Oh, and was it the one with the bar code!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThePope43;13681179*
> So, am following this tutorial: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html
> 
> and I did everything as followed for the OC'ing to 4GHz, and Windows bluescreens on boot and the mobo says Overclocking failed.
> 
> Do I need to increase the Vcore more? If so, how much?


You can set the voltage to manual, then auto, then save and reset. Whatever voltage you get when you boot is almost guaranteed to work. And then you can lower it from there.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dklimitless;13681386*
> Guys, I've got a question on the serial number on the p8p67 pro. Is it the sticker (with bar code, etc.) on the top end of the board (near the ram) or the one on the SATA ports? :s
> (ASUS keeps rejecting the serial number that's why I'm asking )
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Nvm, got it. Seems something else was wrong. Registered now and a proud member of the club


Hi, man ! Registered?







I guess, you wan't in the Club?







I'll add you. Welcome !


----------



## CyberShadow

Not sure if this may be the cause of this issue BUT I'm having a issue when I boot up I get a really fast black screen indicating something about Marvell and not detecting a device which I think this may be with the ports not being in use and would need to disable via the bios if someone can confirm but more troubling is I get a screen with ALL colored dots for a couple seconds each time I reboot... Any ideas? Ive installed the most current drivers for my gpu and is running fine from what I can see. Besides this I'm LOVING this board!!!


----------



## PaulE

Hey, this is my first post on my first ever build using the ASUS P8P67 PRO motherboard. I hope i can join your club.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberShadow;13683335*
> Not sure if this may be the cause of this issue BUT I'm having a issue when I boot up I get a really fast black screen indicating something about Marvell and not detecting a device which I think this may be with the ports not being in use and would need to disable via the bios if someone can confirm but more troubling is I get a screen with ALL colored dots for a couple seconds each time I reboot... Any ideas? Ive installed the most current drivers for my gpu and is running fine from what I can see. Besides this I'm LOVING this board!!!


To get rid of the black screen, just disable the Marvell controller in the BIOS. I'm not sure about the other thing though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaulE;13683354*
> Hey, this is my first post on my first ever build using the ASUS P8P67 PRO motherboard. I hope i can join your club.


Welcome to OCN!







turrican9 will add you when he gets back on.


----------



## Akehage

I want to join here. Have improved VCore with a few tweaks now. Now running 4.6 at 1.35 with was impossible for me before. I am going to try to get up to 4.7 with the same VCore.

I dont understand the Offset-settings, how does that work? And can I do something there if 4.7 want work with 1.35v? And if so, what should I set the offset to?
Then another question, is it enouugh to stress with prime 1 hour after every small setting? Otherwise this takes long long time to tweak settings to opti!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaulE;13683354*
> Hey, this is my first post on my first ever build using the ASUS P8P67 PRO motherboard. I hope i can join your club.


Welcome to OCN and Welcome to the Club !







I'll add you in a moment !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akehage;13684082*
> I want to join here.


Welcome to OCN and Welcome to the Club !







I'll add you in a moment !


----------



## EdSpfld73

Welcome to the club.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13681380*
> Also, can anyone suggest improvements on my OC (newbie OCer here), I am going for 4.5 Ghz using offset and here are my settings:
> 
> VRM = manual (350)
> Phase = Extreme
> Duty = T.Probe
> Offset + (0.040)
> Ram = 1.5v
> The rest is default/auto
> 
> This is only IBT 10-run stable, I use it to somewhat gauge stability. Max temps are in the low 70s. Are these good settings? I can go down to 0.020 but it only passes IBT 5 runs and fails at 10 runs.


Can i bump my post o.o


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13688435*
> Can i bump my post o.o


When you use +0.040 Offset, what is your Vcore under Load?

Your settings seems fine. You are using manual LLC setting? I would recommend Ultra High LLC for best results.


----------



## CyberShadow

Anybody have any ideas regarding my post about the colored dots screen on boot up?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13688485*
> When you use +0.040 Offset, what is your Vcore under Load?
> 
> Your settings seems fine. You are using manual LLC setting? I would recommend Ultra High LLC for best results.


Oops, forgot to put LLC. I have it set to ultra high. Highest vcore that I have seen when running IBT is 1.328V


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberShadow;13688822*
> Anybody have any ideas regarding my post about the colored dots screen on boot up?


So it does not happen when you disable the Marvell and JMicron controllers?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13688832*
> Oops, forgot to put LLC. I have it set to ultra high. Highest vcore that I have seen when running IBT is 1.328V


Try upping Offset to +0.05 or +0.06?


----------



## CyberShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13688867*
> So it does not happen when you disable the Marvell and JMicron controllers?


Should I also be disabling the JMicorn controllers as well? Is this a common issue that these controllers would cause this screen? As of now neither are disabled and has started happening since I installed the new parts including the mobo.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberShadow;13688958*
> Should I also be disabling the JMicorn controllers as well? Is this a common issue that these controllers would cause this screen? As of now neither are disabled and has started happening since I installed the new parts including the mobo.


I don't know yet, since I've not had mine Marvell and JMicron enabled yet. just try it. One at a time.

Also, does this 'issue' affect you in any way? You said pink dots?


----------



## CyberShadow

^Will do, Thanks.


----------



## dajposkakac

Hey








This is the first board on which I built my first system and it's great!
however I do have some issues with overclocks over 4.5GHz... they seem to need LOTS more vcore - over 0.1 more to get 4.6.
Temps too... i know my cooler isnt the best, but is there a way of lowering the temps with adjusting some settings for example decreasing vcore but compensating it with something else?

Anyway can I please join Your club?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dajposkakac;13689098*
> Hey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first board on which I built my first system and it's great!
> however I do have some issues with overclocks over 4.5GHz... they seem to need LOTS more vcore - over 0.1 more to get 4.6.
> Temps too... i know my cooler isnt the best, but is there a way of lowering the temps with adjusting some settings for example decreasing vcore but compensating it with something else?
> 
> Anyway can I please join Your club?


Congrats with your excellent choice of both motherboard and CPU for your build !









Mine is the same. 4.5GHz requires ~1.368v Vcore for Prime95 Blend Custom '6000MB' to be 12 hours + stable. And I also have the CM Hyper 212+. My testing has showed that mine will probably need ~1.47v + for 4.8GHz 12 hours + Blend stability. So not worth it for me.

Thing is, CPU's vary alot. Either you get a very bad one a mediocre or a great overclocker. Mine is mediocre at best, but I just accept it. 4.5GHz is really good enough for me. Since these are blazing fast CPU's, even at stock !









And Welcome to the Club !







Feel at home and ask qustions all you want here! I'll add you in a moment ! Enjoy your new rig and this Club !


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13688867*
> Try upping Offset to +0.05 or +0.06?


Why do I need to raise the offset? is 0.040 too low? Sorry I'm not doubting your suggestion or anything, I just want to understand the reason behind it so I know what to do next time









Also, welcome to the club dajposkakac!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13689212*
> Why do I need to raise the offset? is 0.040 too low? Sorry I'm not doubting your suggestion or anything, I just want to understand the reason behind it so I know what to do next time


You said that when you stepped up Offset IBT ran longer for each step? When upping Offset you up CPU Vcore. You know this?


----------



## turrican9

The end-result/Vcore of the + Offset you set will vary from CPU to CPU under Load. My CPU ends up at about ~1.368v Vcore under full load when Offset is +0.020. While yours (*Nethermir*) end up at ~1.328v Vcore when you set +0.040 Offset. This indicate that your CPU has a lower (better VID) VS mine. But a good VID does not always mean it will overclock better than a CPU with a higher VID.


----------



## Nethermir

Ah, gotcha. I thought you meant 0.04 in general is a horrible thing lol. So far IBT seems to like 0.04. I'll run p95 for a bit and see what happens. But yeah I think you're right that it will probably go 0.05. Thanks!


----------



## 4x4n

Sign me up









Flashed to the latest bios and so far not much difference for me. Here is about on hour into a prime run.










And here is a pic of the setup in my trusty old P160.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4x4n;13689898*
> Sign me up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flashed to the latest bios and so far not much difference for me. Here is about on hour into a prime run.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is a pic of the setup in my trusty old P160.


Welcome to the Club mate !







Consider yourself a member from now on !







I'll add you right away, also with a link to your System Picture !









Pretty nice Vcore for 4.6GHz you got there !


----------



## 4x4n

Thanks, funny that some people think the voltage is high for that clock. The voltage jumps around from 1.328-1.344, but mostly stays at the 1.336 in the screenie.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4x4n;13690040*
> Thanks, funny that some people think the voltage is high for that clock. The voltage jumps around from 1.328-1.344, but mostly stays at the 1.336 in the screenie.


Actually nice Vcore for that speed, as I have a mediocre i5 2500K that needs ~1.368v (little up and down) for 4.5GHz to be 12 hour + Prime95 Blend stable.

So you're fine


----------



## xtnod

Hey guys I just bought a P8P67 PRO at microcenter at an open box price and was wondering if there is anyway to tell it's a B3 other than the box and the sticker... will CPU-Z show it?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtnod;13690283*
> Hey guys I just bought a P8P67 PRO at microcenter at an open box price and was wondering if there is anyway to tell it's a B3 other than the box and the sticker... will CPU-Z show it?


Yes, I believe CPU-Z will show it. You will also see it inside the bios. Says B3 after the mobo name.

Look here http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/Identify_B3_Motherboards/


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akehage;13684082*
> Then another question, is it enouugh to stress with prime 1 hour after every small setting? Otherwise this takes long long time to tweak settings to opti!


I usually run Prime95 10-30min, then lower the Vcore until i BSOD. That way i get a good idea of what Vcore i need.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dajposkakac;13689098*
> Temps too... i know my cooler isnt the best, but is there a way of lowering the temps with adjusting some settings for example decreasing vcore but compensating it with something else?


You can try to lower LLC, but that might not work. The other option would be to lower PLL, PCH, and VCCIO(not sure if this lowers CPU temps) voltage which is what i did. But i personally would keep it within Intel specs.

What is everyones opinion on changing VCCSA voltage? I know that a person who made one of the first great SB OC'ing guide said this:
Quote:


> System Agent Voltage should NOT be touched, it is supposed to be a fixed voltage, and it powers many things that the VCC does not power.


After reading that i was scared to touch it, so i left it on Auto.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13689181*
> Mine is the same. 4.5GHz requires ~1.368v Vcore for Prime95 Blend Custom '6000MB' to be 12 hours + stable. And I also have the CM Hyper 212+. My testing has showed that mine will probably need ~1.47v + for 4.8GHz 12 hours + Blend stability. So not worth it for me.


You might already know this, but lower temps need less Vcore. I found this out by using what i knew was a stable OC, then taking off my HS fans and running Prime95. I had to bump my Vcore up a few notches so that i wouldn't BSOD right away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4x4n;13690040*
> Thanks, funny that some people think the voltage is high for that clock. The voltage jumps around from 1.328-1.344, but mostly stays at the 1.336 in the screenie.


If that is your voltage under load, then i wish i had your CPU. Especially since you have a 212+ and can run at that Vcore. Right now i can get 4.6GHz 1.35V.

Do you guys/girls think 11h40m then BSOD is long enough for stabilty? I dont know what BSOD i got because i closed it before looking, but it should be a lack of Vcore. I was stable at 0.005 higher Vcore, which is why it should be 124 of 101. I ran Prime95 blend and used 7168Mb.


----------



## Jyve

Does anyone know if the esata ports are multipliers on the pro? Thinking of getting a 4 bay box to store media and would rather not use usb. Thanks in advance!


----------



## 4x4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13691442*
> 
> If that is your voltage under load, then i wish i had your CPU. Especially since you have a 212+ and can run at that Vcore. Right now i can get 4.6GHz 1.35V.
> 
> Do you guys/girls think 11h40m then BSOD is long enough for stabilty? I dont know what BSOD i got because i closed it before looking, but it should be a lack of Vcore. I was stable at 0.005 higher Vcore, which is why it should be 124 of 101. I ran Prime95 blend and used 7168Mb.


I'm using a Venomous X for cooling, and its at load in the screenshot. Almost 1.35v, so not much different than yours.

As for your BSOD, IMHO if it crashes its not stable, but if it does everything
you need without crashing, then its stable for you.

EDIT: Dammit, just got an error after posting this on one core after 6 hrs of prime.







Looks like I might need 1.35v as well.


----------



## SmasherBasher

SOOOOO on one of these folding boards (P8P67 EVO), I'm getting that stupid error that "a required CD/DVD driver isn't present and I need to load a driver. Everything is set to IDE mode, compatible, and to make matters worse, I don't even *own* a CDDVD drive. Installing from USB. Why is it telling me this? What setting did I forget?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *4x4n*


EDIT: Dammit, just got an error after posting this on one core after 6 hrs of prime.







Looks like I might need 1.35v as well.


I would add 0.005V, and that should make you 12h stable.


----------



## xira

Question: 4.8 seemed stable, but I'm randomly getting the 0x124 BSOD which seems to be VCCIO related: I have it at auto at the moment. I'm running 4 dimms (4 x 2gb gskill 1600) I bumped the speed down to 1333 down from 1600 to see if that helps before messing with VCCIO. What VCCIO setting should I try?

Thanks


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


SOOOOO on one of these folding boards (P8P67 EVO), I'm getting that stupid error that "a required CD/DVD driver isn't present and I need to load a driver. Everything is set to IDE mode, compatible, and to make matters worse, I don't even *own* a CDDVD drive. Installing from USB. Why is it telling me this? What setting did I forget?


Did you remember to install all the mobo drivers? I think there should be an option available in the BIOS that allows you to turn off some of the controllers.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xira*


Question: 4.8 seemed stable, but I'm randomly getting the 0x124 BSOD which seems to be VCCIO related: I have it at auto at the moment. I'm running 4 dimms (4 x 2gb gskill 1600) I bumped the speed down to 1333 down from 1600 to see if that helps before messing with VCCIO. What VCCIO setting should I try?

Thanks










auto should be somewhere around 1.05v, max is 1.2v, but I would try gradually increasing it to 1.15v for 24/7 use. 1.15v seems to show stability improvement when using 4 dimm slots. Try that and report back. Good luck


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xira*


Question: 4.8 seemed stable, but I'm randomly getting the 0x124 BSOD which seems to be VCCIO related: I have it at auto at the moment. I'm running 4 dimms (4 x 2gb gskill 1600) I bumped the speed down to 1333 down from 1600 to see if that helps before messing with VCCIO. What VCCIO setting should I try?

Thanks










I think you have the same problem as me. It could be the VCCIO, but i haven't tried changing it to fix the problem. BSOD 124 means you need more Vcore, and your using offset so i think your CPU gets undervolted or something.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Out of the two HDDs and one optical drive I have plugged in, only the ODD and one HDD show up in BIOS. Anybody know how to fix it?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13697250*
> Out of the two HDDs and one optical drive I have plugged in, only the ODD and one HDD show up in BIOS. Anybody know how to fix it?


Admin tools -> Storage manager

Are all your drives listed there? If they're dynamic disks you'll have to right-click one and select "import foreign drives".


----------



## jacobrjett

I have an asus p8p67 pro and i couldnt be happer.









can i join?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacobrjett;13697306*
> I have an asus p8p67 pro and i couldnt be happer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can i join?


Welcome to the OCN and Welcome as a member in this Club !









Also, congrats with your excellent taste in motherboards !









Feel free to ask any questions in this Club and feel as if you where home in here !









You'll be added in a moment !


----------



## Nethermir

Another question. I have the ASUS P8P67 board, if I want to upgrade my graphics card, is it better to go with a 2 GB card or crossfire?

Also, welcome to new members!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13700195*
> Another question. I have the ASUS P8P67 board, if I want to upgrade my graphics card, is it better to go with a 2 GB card or crossfire?
> 
> Also, welcome to new members!


Crossfire will give you much more VS more VRAM.


----------



## Alex132

I would say neither, can't think of where your card would lag


----------



## Nethermir

^ Thanks to both of you. Yeah right now I really love the 6870 because it is cheap and and can handle SC2 and Wow in max settings. It is audible when playing games though. I will be upgrading my monitor to 1920x1080 (or above) soon and adding a second monitor for work/running a second game at the same time.


----------



## Alex132

I play all those games fine with that res. I think just wait until Keplar 7xxx comes around


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Admin tools -> Storage manager

Are all your drives listed there? If they're dynamic disks you'll have to right-click one and select "import foreign drives".


I that in the UEFI at all?


----------



## Thogar

So no mention of a fix for the profile voltage bug with 1606?
Also is anyone running 1606, kinda skeptical to update lol


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thogar;13703825*
> So no mention of a fix for the profile voltage bug with 1606?
> *Also is anyone running 1606*, kinda skeptical to update lol


I am









But don't bother with using profiles!


----------



## silis

You guys having idle bsod's, make sure you have disabled c3,c6 in bios. And for the screenshots, you need a memory stick, and then press f12 in bios.
And for stability testing get prime95 26.6, 64bit, believe that.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13697267*
> Admin tools -> Storage manager
> 
> Are all your drives listed there? If they're dynamic disks you'll have to right-click one and select "import foreign drives".


Both drives are listed underneath Device Manager/Disk Drives but not in BIOS....

Edit: Oh wait, it is under advanced/sata config. in BIOS but not in boot priorities even though it has an OS too? I have an OS per drive and this is messing with my brain.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13704480*
> Both drives are listed underneath Device Manager/Disk Drives but not in BIOS....


Can we get a screen shot of disk management?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silis;13704396*
> You guys having idle bsod's, make sure you have disabled c3,c6 in bios. *And for the screenshots, you need a memory stick, and then press f12 in bios.*
> And for stability testing get prime95 26.6, 64bit, believe that.


Wicked


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13704500*
> Can we get a screen shot of disk management?


Here you go... I hope this is what you wanted.


----------



## silis

Here is a little offset oc of my i5 2500k prime95 stable. All else on default settings only these settings changed in pics, notice c3,c6 on auto=disabled.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13704762*
> Here you go... I hope this is what you wanted.


Nope that's the device manager, i'm looking for "disk management". Least it shows your drives aren't faulty. I'm still going with my theory that they are dynamic disks that haven't been imported yet.

Try searching for it in the control panel. Failing that, it's "system and security--> administrative tools --> computer management --> storage --> disk management"

Kind of a mouthful


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13704762*
> Here you go... I hope this is what you wanted.
> ]


No








Click Start, Right click Computer, click Manage, click disk management


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silis;13704396*
> You guys having idle bsod's, make sure you have disabled c3,c6 in bios. *And for the screenshots, you need a memory stick, and then press f12 in bios.*
> And for stability testing get prime95 26.6, 64bit, believe that.


Great info !


----------



## turrican9

So what do you people think, should we allow Sabertooth owners as Club members?









I see that *silis* own a Sabertooth and I guess he has no other Club to hang around in ?


----------



## Akehage

Regarding Cstates. (Or what they called). I have them all on Enabled. I am having trouble OC it without much VCore. Testing at 4.8 @ 1.39 but BSOD. Can it help me to disable C3 and C6? (is this doing so the voltage want go down when idle?)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akehage;13709764*
> Regarding Cstates. (Or what they called). I have them all on Enabled. I am having trouble OC it without much VCore. Testing at 4.8 @ 1.39 but BSOD. Can it help me to disable C3 and C6? (is this doing so the voltage want go down when idle?)


When does the BSOD occur? Under Load or Idle?


----------



## Akehage

under load in prime. Temps are fine all the way. Have not tryied the computer for anything other then prime and I have had it for almost a week now









But I realised that 4.6 wasnt that good, now I am a little bit conserned about having 1.4v, but googling on that, it seems that its an ok voltage as long as my temps are ok


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13705197*
> No
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click Start, Right click Computer, click Manage, click disk management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Oh man, that's a much easier way than my method. lol


----------



## Alex132

Have you tried to lower the voltages?


----------



## Akehage

@Thealex. Did you mean me? Yes of course, BSOD with anything lower, I am now running prime with 1.4 for the first time here. (Have had it to 1.365v before with 4.6Mhz)...so this is the highest I have been, but it did not work with 1.39v.
I have CPU PLL - 1.900v, is that to high? Dont really know why I have this so high. But must have seen it somewhere.

EDIT: BSOD now again with 1.40v







- damn it!


----------



## Alex132

Try lower the CPU PLL


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13704821*
> Nope that's the device manager, i'm looking for "disk management". Least it shows your drives aren't faulty. I'm still going with my theory that they are dynamic disks that haven't been imported yet.
> 
> Try searching for it in the control panel. Failing that, it's "system and security--> administrative tools --> computer management --> storage --> disk management"
> 
> Kind of a mouthful


----------



## Boyboyd

There's the problem, it hasn't been assigned a drive letter.

Right click on the partition and assign it a letter. It should appear in my computer now (well, your computer...)


----------



## Akehage

Lower the CPU PLL to about 1.7?


----------



## Alex132

1.7 or 1.75 sounds good


----------



## Boyboyd

It's probably the only voltage where lowering it increases stability.


----------



## Akehage

Will try that one tonight, and have the test running over night.
Really dont know why I have this one so high from the beginning.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


So what do you people think, should we allow Sabertooth owners as Club members?









I see that *silis* own a Sabertooth and I guess he has no other Club to hang around in ?


The more the merrier!









But isn't there a Sabertooth club somewhere?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


So what do you people think, should we allow Sabertooth owners as Club members?









I see that *silis* own a Sabertooth and I guess he has no other Club to hang around in ?


It's still an ASUS P67









Oh, I also read that someone else had problems with a G15 keyboard!
They said it killed a couple of USB ports








*So it's a good job we have USB load sensors*. Or my keyboard could have killed mine









But yeah, it's all good with the new 2.4GHz wireless keyboard









Quote:



Originally Posted by *frickfrock99*


So I had to get rid of my G15 after three years* because it recently started killing my USB ports*.
She was a noble piece for me to pound upon, but alas, she has reached her end.

I'll miss her warm glow.

Now, here's some pics of her spread wide open.








You can really tell whose a gamer by the amount of crap near the WASD keys


----------



## xtnod

Finally sat down to out together my p8p67 pro with a 2600k. Question though for anyone that might know. When my pc boots it'll show the Asus logo... Goto the Marvell screen, back to Asus, my raids, hdds, back to Asus screen... Black screen, back to Asus screen... Than finall boots to my os.. I know my ud3r went through those checks too... But without the logo screen. Is this normal or no?


----------



## Akehage

I found out where I did find the PLL voltage settings to 1.9. From bit-tech.
"CPU PLL Voltage: Generally this doesn't need changing at all, although if increasing the CPU Voltage or the two Vcc options doesn't work, it's worth a try. Using anything over 2V isn't recommended, but 1.9V can help to stabilise an overclock."


----------



## Akehage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtnod*


Finally sat down to out together my p8p67 pro with a 2600k. Question though for anyone that might know. When my pc boots it'll show the Asus logo... Goto the Marvell screen, back to Asus, my raids, hdds, back to Asus screen... Black screen, back to Asus screen... Than finall boots to my os.. I know my ud3r went through those checks too... But without the logo screen. Is this normal or no?


Think my do the same as yours...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akehage*


under load in prime. Temps are fine all the way. Have not tryied the computer for anything other then prime and I have had it for almost a week now









But I realised that 4.6 wasnt that good, now I am a little bit conserned about having 1.4v, but googling on that, it seems that its an ok voltage as long as my temps are ok


If you get BSOD when under Prime95 Load you should try upping Vcore









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


The more the merrier!









But isn't there a Sabertooth club somewhere?


Yes, but I believe it's for 1366 Sabertooth?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


It's still an ASUS P67









Oh, I also read that someone else had problems with a G15 keyboard!
They said it killed a couple of USB ports








*So it's a good job we have USB load sensors*. Or my keyboard could have killed mine









But yeah, it's all good with the new 2.4GHz wireless keyboard










Yeah, it's P67









Glad to hear you didn't damage any of your USB ports then


----------



## Akehage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


If you get BSOD when under Prime95 Load you should try upping Vcore










No ****ting








Me not want!!!! =)


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtnod*


Finally sat down to out together my p8p67 pro with a 2600k. Question though for anyone that might know. When my pc boots it'll show the Asus logo... Goto the Marvell screen, back to Asus, my raids, hdds, back to Asus screen... Black screen, back to Asus screen... Than finall boots to my os.. I know my ud3r went through those checks too... But without the logo screen. Is this normal or no?


Sounds similar to the cold boot issue o.o


----------



## xtnod

Well u n hear it doesn't reboot just does the checks... Raid hdd Marvell stuff but just wondering if it's normal to have the Asus logo show three times. I'll take a video when I get home. Just seems weird to me.


----------



## Akehage

My computer does the exact thing, I thought it was going to be like that so havent cared about it.


----------



## Akehage

My computer just freezed during prime. No BSOD or something, just stopped, mouse or keyboard did not work. Is this also related to vCore? Or is this something that usually happends? The counter i realtemp stopped at 47mins. For me this was the first time. 
Changed PLL from 1.9 - 1.7. Running at [email protected]


----------



## metal_gunjee

Probably a future P8P67 owner here. 
I'll let you guys know.


----------



## Behemoth777

I'll join the one other evo owner here.









The board is pretty much like a pimped out version of the pro, I love it.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Behemoth777*


I'll join the one other evo owner here.









The board is pretty much like a pimped out version of the pro, I love it.










I bid you welcome to the Club !







Glad to get another EVO owner !









Feel free to ask any questions in this Club and feel as you are at home in here !









I'll add you in a moment !


----------



## CyberShadow

Yea another EVO owner! Welcome to the club. Which reminds me I need to put my sig up.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13711895*
> Yes, but I believe it's for 1366 Sabertooth?


Oops, yeah it is 1366. Im a dummy


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13714308*
> Oops, yeah it is 1366. Im a dummy


Yeah... If any Sabertooth P67 owners wanna be a member of this Club I will add them







After all, the Sabertooth has the same bios and are very similar to rest of the P8P67 series


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13714340*
> Yeah... If any Sabertooth P67 owners wanna be a member of this Club I will add them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all, the Sabertooth has the same bios and are very similar to rest of the P8P67 series


LoL..

In your first failed P8P67 club you have refused to accept *P8P67 WS Revolution* owners but now you're willing to accept *Sabertooth* which is completely different and independent P67 Asus motherboard series..
















CHEERS..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13714441*
> LoL..
> 
> In your first failed P8P67 club you have refused to accept *P8P67 WS Revolution* owners but now you're willing to accept *Sabertooth* which is completely different and independent P67 Asus motherboard series..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


Very similar, appart from the looks.

I'm also thinking since the P67 Sabertooth owners have no Club. They can hang around here.

Also, in my first Club, that got trolled away I was open for adding other motherboards. And made a poll. But the trolling had already began


----------



## KingT

Yeah, right..

CHEERS..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13714548*
> Yeah, right..
> 
> CHEERS..


Are you trolling in this Club?


----------



## KingT

Here you go: *Official Asus SABERTOOTH motherboards Club-TUF* which includes *X58*,*P55* and *P67* *Sabertooth* motherboards..

CHEERS..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT;13714594*
> Here you go: *Official Asus SABERTOOTH motherboards Club-TUF* which includes *X58*,*P55* and *P67* *Sabertooth* motherboards..
> 
> CHEERS..


Great. I thought that Club only included 1366 Sabertooth. Then the Sabertooth P67 people have a Club.


----------



## Thogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtnod;13711445*
> Finally sat down to out together my p8p67 pro with a 2600k. Question though for anyone that might know. When my pc boots it'll show the Asus logo... Goto the Marvell screen, back to Asus, my raids, hdds, back to Asus screen... Black screen, back to Asus screen... Than finall boots to my os.. I know my ud3r went through those checks too... But without the logo screen. Is this normal or no?


Disable the jmicron and the marvell sata controllers in the uefi, unless you use them of course lol.


----------



## nykeiscool

Just waiting on my shipping can't wait!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13714834*
> Just waiting on my shipping can't wait!


----------



## Nethermir

Why so cheeeeeaaaaaappppppp!!!! I wish I coud've gotten that too!


----------



## Alex132

My motherboard was R2000, or 2000/6.95 = $287.77


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13715289*
> My motherboard was R2000, or 2000/6.95 = $287.77


Mine was £149.99


----------



## Alex132

Damn, that's very close to the cost of mine >_> $280?


----------



## cba1986

HI everybody. I have a P8P67 Pro.
I would like to be part of the Club.


----------



## Alex132

Haha nice second post







and welcome!


----------



## cba1986

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13716676*
> Haha nice second post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and welcome!


Thanks!
There is anything i should know about LLC in "Extreme"? For me it help to keep lower vcore in idle and rise it in load.
For example i'm testing 4.6 and in idle stays 1.352~1.344 and when in loads it raises to 1.368~1.376.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13710404*
> There's the problem, it hasn't been assigned a drive letter.
> 
> Right click on the partition and assign it a letter. It should appear in my computer now (well, your computer...)


Actually that is the one that isn't showing up. The one labeled C, which is my windows drive. it is the one not showing up.


----------



## Alex132

Most people set it to Ultra High, what are the rest of your overclocking settings?
You can press F12 in the BIOS to save a screenshot to a flashdrive


----------



## cba1986

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13717020*
> Most people set it to Ultra High, what are the rest of your overclocking settings?
> You can press F12 in the BIOS to save a screenshot to a flashdrive




















With these settings i'm getting peaks of 1.4 at load. Seems to high. I'm thinking of disabling HT. To lower vcore and heat.


----------



## Alex132

VRM freq, why did you set it to 370? Just curious.
Also set the Duty control to Extreme and try 120% on the CPU Current Capability with Ultra High LLC and CPU Spread Spectrum disabled. I use 1.384v for 3.8Ghz, I'm sure you can get much lower volts at 4.6Ghz. What are your temps like? For me I barely touch 65'c in stress testing and folding it barely touched 60'c, while gaming it struggles to hit 50'c.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akehage;13713317*
> My computer just freezed during prime. No BSOD or something, just stopped, mouse or keyboard did not work. Is this also related to vCore? Or is this something that usually happends? The counter i realtemp stopped at 47mins. For me this was the first time.
> Changed PLL from 1.9 - 1.7. Running at [email protected]


Ive had this happen a few times. And this one time when i booted in OS again, it showed that it was a BSOD error. Can't remember which error code, but it was vcore related. But freezing is definitely a sign of instability, or you just loaded your RAM and your using a HDD like me. But in that situation, it would just freeze temporarily.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cba1986;13716900*
> Thanks!
> There is anything i should know about LLC in "Extreme"? For me it help to keep lower vcore in idle and rise it in load.
> For example i'm testing 4.6 and in idle stays 1.352~1.344 and when in loads it raises to 1.368~1.376.


At 4.6GHz, i would recommend trying offset to lower idle Vcore. And you might not need internal PLL overvoltage either. If you can't boot without it, then just re-enable it. And i believe that a higher LLC increases temps, but i'm not completely sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13717291*
> VRM freq, why did you set it to 370? Just curious.
> Also set the Duty control to Extreme and try 120% on the CPU Current Capability with Ultra High LLC and CPU Spread Spectrum disabled. I use 1.384v for 3.8Ghz, I'm sure you can get much lower volts at 4.6Ghz. What are your temps like? For me I barely touch 65'c in stress testing and folding it barely touched 60'c, while gaming it struggles to hit 50'c.


I read somewhere that if CPU spread spectrum is set to auto, it is by default set to disabled. But that is only true for these mobos. And why does everyone say to use 120% current? The official ASUS OC guide didn't mention anything about changing that setting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtnod;13711445*
> Finally sat down to out together my p8p67 pro with a 2600k. Question though for anyone that might know. When my pc boots it'll show the Asus logo... Goto the Marvell screen, back to Asus, my raids, hdds, back to Asus screen... Black screen, back to Asus screen... Than finall boots to my os.. I know my ud3r went through those checks too... But without the logo screen. Is this normal or no?


Im pretty sure that is normal. I had the ASUS logo show up twice before i disabled the Jmicron and Marvell controllers. But of course, if you need to use them, then leave it enabled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silis;13704396*
> You guys having idle bsod's, make sure you have disabled c3,c6 in bios. And for the screenshots, you need a memory stick, and then press f12 in bios.
> And for stability testing get prime95 26.6, 64bit, believe that.


Thank you so much for this info. It worked! But after doing a quick google search on C states, i found this outdated article. It says that C states are for saving power. C3 stops the internal and external clocks, but im not sure when that happens. It doesn't seem like disabling this would help with OC stability, unless your at a very high multi. C6 is for reducing the CPU internal voltage to any value, including 0.000V. So it seems C6 is the one that causes a BSOD when idle. And right now im using a 4.8GHz OC with a voltage that is only 6h Prime95 blend stable. Yet i haven't had a BSOD while idle or web browsing. And before i disabled C6, i would idle BSOD with a higher offset voltage. So it seems that i have found the solution to Vcore related idle BSODs with high multis.

*Edit:* 4 hours and no idle BSOD. So disabling seems C6 fix the problem.
*Edit2:* I left my computer on without using it for about 2h, and when i turned the monitor back on i noticed i got a BSOD 101. This could be from a general lack of Vcore though so ill try again with 0.005V more.


----------



## L36

What about ASUS P8Z68-V PRO owners?
Left out?


----------



## xtnod

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Im pretty sure that is normal. I had the ASUS logo show up twice before i disabled the Jmicron and Marvell controllers. But of course, if you need to use them, then leave it enabled.


thanks nawon i went and disabled those two options, I dont see a need for them? Since I only use the Intel SATA ports.

Please add me to the club list too! P8P67-PRO

Next.. time to get OCing! I know this is a noob question but I am pretty new to the 2600k scene or rather the i series what's a decent OC to hit? I've been seeing a lot of people aim for 4.8?
Also for the EPU and TPU switch should it be on or off for OCing?

Thanks!

EDIT: 30 minutes later, tried the quick settings for 4.8 on the front page. it Booted... I guess haha should stress test it... but I need to read more about OCing the i7 2600k first...


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtnod;13720453*
> thanks nawon i went and disabled those two options, I dont see a need for them? Since I only use the Intel SATA ports.
> 
> Oh Can you I get added to the club list too! P8P67-PRO
> 
> Next.. time to get OCing! I know this is a noob question but I am pretty new to the 2600k scene or rather the i series what's a decent OC to hit? I've been seeing a lot of people aim for 4.8?
> Also for the EPU and TPU switch should it be on or off for OCing?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: 30 minutes later, tried the quick settings for 4.8 on the front page. it Booted... I guess haha should stress test it... but I need to read more about OCing the i7 2600k first...


I can't remember what the Jmicron controller does. A decent OC would be 4.2GHz IMO, but ASUS says around 1.4V gives the most for your OC. Dont use the TPU or EPU when OC'ing.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cba1986*


HI everybody. I have a P8P67 Pro.
I would like to be part of the Club.


Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you in a moment !









Quote:



Originally Posted by *L36*


What about ASUS P8Z68-V PRO owners?
Left out?


Hello mate !







You are free to post in this Club even if you have a ASUS Z68 board !







Maybe someone will start a ASUS Z68 Club?







If not we may have to find some kind of solution









Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtnod*


Please add me to the club list too! P8P67-PRO


Welcome to the Club, Asus P8P67 PRO Owner !







You'll be added in a heartbeat !


----------



## silis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


So what do you people think, should we allow Sabertooth owners as Club members?









I see that *silis* own a Sabertooth and I guess he has no other Club to hang around in ?


Im just stopping by, sorry for that, not trying to come a member or anything.


----------



## Alex132

Do you think its ok if I get a BSOD after 5-6 days of straight folding, for me to just leave it and not up the voltage?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Do you think its ok if I get a BSOD after 5-6 days of straight folding, for me to just leave it and not up the voltage?


You may as well up the voltage by 1 notch and see if it happens again after a week.


----------



## Alex132

I had the same or lesser voltage in manual and it wasn't doing this, I think I may change it back to that and see if it BSOD's. If it doesn't then it may be that Offset/Manual may be more stable for some users, and not others.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13721744*
> Hello mate !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are free to post in this Club even if you have a ASUS Z68 board !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe someone will start a ASUS Z68 Club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not we may have to find some kind of solution


I don't have a Z68-board but if the features are similar to P68, then just make this an ASUS P8P67/P8Z67 club?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13723444*
> I had the same or lesser voltage in manual and it wasn't doing this, I think I may change it back to that and see if it BSOD's. If it doesn't then it may be that Offset/Manual may be more stable for some users, and not others.


The thing is when using Offset Voltage, Vcore do not fluctuate as much under load as when setting manul Vcore.

However, many people are unstable using Offset Voltage because of the Voltage vary between Load and Idle, when overclocking.

So to remedy BSOD's when Idle or at light load, manual Vcore seems the best solution for many.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13723888*
> I don't have a Z68-board but if the features are similar to P68, then just make this an ASUS P8P67/P8Z67 club?


I think the features/bioses are very similar.

If many of the Club members here is into this we can change the Club to accept ASUS Z68 series mobos..

I will not make this decision on my own though.


----------



## pdiomidis

guys i am just installing an ek cpu waterblock to p8p67 deluxe! do i have to remove the metal mechanism that holds the cpu? or i put in above it?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdiomidis;13724332*
> guys i am just installing an ek cpu waterblock to p8p67 deluxe! do i have to remove the metal mechanism that holds the cpu? or i put in above it?


I don't think you should remove anything


----------



## turrican9

I've started a poll. Please vote


----------



## FuriousNoodle

I'm going to be building a new rig sometime this month, and I've been trying to find a motherboard. The asus in my x58 PC works flawlessly, so I like asus as a brand.

I'm a bit worried about choosing this MB, almost all types of this board have 3 egg reviews on newegg. Has asus fixed the problems on this board?

Also, what are the main differences between the pro, evo, normal?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FuriousNoodle;13725253*
> I'm going to be building a new rig sometime this month, and I've been trying to find a motherboard. The asus in my x58 PC works flawlessly, so I like asus as a brand.
> 
> I'm a bit worried about choosing this MB, almost all types of this board have 3 egg reviews on newegg. Has asus fixed the problems on this board?


As far as I know, most peoples P8P67 boards in this Club works very well. People in general seems very happy with them


----------



## ShiftedReality

Have a question for you all P8P67 owners, the only difference i see between the P8P67 Pro and EVO is extra gb ethernet and a extra heatsink on the board? What is that extra heatsink even cover? Was debating on getting a P8P67 not sure if its worth the difference in price any suggestions?


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FuriousNoodle;13725253*
> I'm going to be building a new rig sometime this month, and I've been trying to find a motherboard. The asus in my x58 PC works flawlessly, so I like asus as a brand.
> 
> I'm a bit worried about choosing this MB, almost all types of this board have 3 egg reviews on newegg. Has asus fixed the problems on this board?
> 
> Also, what are the main differences between the pro, evo, normal?


I ordered a P8P67 Pro off newegg a little less than a week ago and it's worked flawless and I've had no problems. They even flashed it to the latest bios (prior 1606) Newegg reviews usually suffer from PEBKAC.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftedReality;13725278*
> Have a question for you all P8P67 owners, the only difference i see between the P8P67 Pro and EVO is extra gb ethernet and a extra heatsink on the board? What is that extra heatsink even cover? Was debating on getting a P8P67 not sure if its worth the difference in price any suggestions?


I think that extra heatsink is mostly for showing, and an extended cooling for the VRM cooling. Since it is connected with heatpipes.

Also, the EVO has onboard power and reset switch. Most people go with the PRO because those extra features of the EVO are not needed. But if there is a very tiny price difference it won't matter.

I almost got the EVO, but chose the PRO in the end.


----------



## ShiftedReality

Kinda torn between the ASUS P8P67 Pro and the MSI P67A-GD65 i know i shouldn't bring up another brand but that's the options I'm considering at the moment.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftedReality;13725415*
> Kinda torn between the ASUS P8P67 Pro and the MSI P67A-GD65 i know i shouldn't bring up another brand but that's the options I'm considering at the moment.


Why are you considering the MSI P67A-GD55 over the ASUS P8P67 PRO? The MSI P67A-GD55 looks to have a much weaker CPU Phase VRM setup and lesser features in general.. Is it much cheaper?


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftedReality;13725415*
> Kinda torn between the ASUS P8P67 Pro and the MSI P67A-GD65 i know i shouldn't bring up another brand but that's the options I'm considering at the moment.


I RMA's a P67A-GD45 because the heatsink on the chipset was tiny and it was overheating during overclock, or at least had a broken sensor. hope this helps. i prefer the asus implementation of UEFI and i'm sure many will agree (especially in this thread)


----------



## ShiftedReality

Yeah was also looking at the UEFI i know ASUS has REALLY nice bios and options also the MSI GD65 is only like 10 dollars cheaper right now.. not that big a difference. Also how anyone have a H60 that could tell me how close it gets to the caps that re by the socket.. looks really close lol

Also, i had to RMA a MSI AM3 board because one of there bios updates messed the bios up so it wouldn't post or do anything.


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftedReality;13725504*
> Yeah was also looking at the UEFI i know ASUS has REALLY nice bios and options also the MSI GD65 is only like 10 dollars cheaper right now.. not that big a difference. Also how anyone have a H60 that could tell me how close it gets to the caps that re by the socket.. looks really close lol
> 
> Also, i had to RMA a MSI AM3 board because one of there bios updates messed the bios up so it wouldn't post or do anything.


the H50 fit fine on mine.


----------



## munaim1

I voted let the z68 be a part of this club, they practically look the same.

Without looking at the name, it's difficult to tell the apart. see what I mean lol


----------



## xtnod

When I get home gonna try for 5ghz on my 2600k... Gonna be a fun night.


----------



## cba1986

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13717291*
> VRM freq, why did you set it to 370? Just curious.
> Also set the Duty control to Extreme and try 120% on the CPU Current Capability with Ultra High LLC and CPU Spread Spectrum disabled. I use 1.384v for 3.8Ghz, I'm sure you can get much lower volts at 4.6Ghz. What are your temps like? For me I barely touch 65'c in stress testing and folding it barely touched 60'c, while gaming it struggles to hit 50'c.


I saw it in a forum and i decided to give it a try.
1.384 for 3.8? seems too much.

After testing i tried 1.35v with 4.6 and "extreme" LLC with HT off and i only get 1 error on core 1 after 8 hours of prime95 blend. This is much better than 20 minutes fail with HT on.
That is way probably 2500k gets much better OC than 2600k at lower vcore. HT has proven to destabilize when OC. And the temps are better too, almost 3-5 degrees less.

My temps are good. The max i reached with 4.7 and 1.4 vcore was 72. Now i barely reach 66 on Prime95 blend-


----------



## turrican9

Keep the votes coming people


----------



## wot

no P8P67 WS love?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot;13729089*
> no P8P67 WS love?


Well, it is a P8P67 Series board?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13729102*
> Well, it is a P8P67 Series board?


I'm going to guess at "yes it is"








And that we do love them, don't we


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13729159*
> I'm going to guess at "yes it is"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that we do love them, don't we


I've added the WS Revolution too


----------



## turrican9

I'm adding all boards in the P8P67 series now. P8P67-M/M-Pro and P8P67 LE in addition to the WS revolution. Seems like the only right thing to do.


----------



## dennyb

Turrican9....Could you post a new thread in the intel mobo forum alerting owners to the poll?
I was PMed else I would have missed it. Z68 owners don't regularly read this thread

edit: great idea as the old UD3P thread evolved to the UD3 series


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13729670*
> Turrican9....Could you post a new thread in the intel mobo forum alerting owners to the poll?
> I was PMed else I would have missed it. Z68 owners don't regularly read this thread
> 
> edit: great idea as the old UD3P thread evolved to the UD3 series


Done..


----------



## dennyb

Thanks and +Rep to you and my buddy down there beside you


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13729763*
> Thanks and +Rep to you and my buddy down there beside you


Thanks mate


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I'm adding all boards in the P8P67 series now. P8P67-M/M-Pro and P8P67 LE in addition to the WS revolution. Seems like the only right thing to do.


Wow, there's loads of them








If it gets too much, use spoiler tags to hide some of it









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennyb*


Turrican9....Could you post a new thread in the intel mobo forum alerting owners to the poll?
I was PMed else I would have missed it. Z68 owners don't regularly read this thread

edit: great idea as the old UD3P thread evolved to the UD3 series


hello mate









*"The ASUS Sandy Bridge Owners Club"*
I mean, who cares how many power phases you've got?
Or if you use an on-chip GPU? In-fact seeing chat about other ASUS Sandy Bridge options would be good IMO








And if turrican9 can manage the OP covering the whole ASUS SB experience, then we would have a much better club IMO









I say it's turrican9's call, as it will mean he has to sort OP


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13730058*
> Wow, there's loads of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it gets too much, use spoiler tags to hide some of it


8 with the 'P8P67' branding name as far as I can see







Anyway, most people have the PRO. But I want this Club to be open for other P8P67 owners too. Why should they be left out?







After all, the Club name states that the P8P67 Series are included









Also, If we get merged with the ASUS P8Z68 boards, then there are 3 of those released, as far as I can see.

As all these boards are very similar and have very alike bioses it is very practical to have them all in the same Club.


----------



## ACHILEE5

agreed









I like it here!








It's a place where I can *ask or chat *about my ASUS SB experience!
Instead of starting a whole new post just because my keyboard was dieing








(my P8P67 told me)!
And in the same breath, others were informed of a good ASUS mobo feature







The USB current sensing


----------



## tsuchiro

P8P67 Deluxe Owner here! 
add me to the list


----------



## turrican9

Since there have been so much wondering back and fourth in this Club to whom or which motherboard brands in the Asus series should be required to be a member, we have decided to rename the Club.

The new name will be "The Official ASUS 1155 Owners Club'. I will begin the process of changing the OP as things evolve.

This way no one have to be left out. I have seen several times where people having Asus 1155 motherboards wondering if they are left out. It is not fair, as all Asus 1155 motherboard are very similar in the way they work and their bios layout.

rep + to certain people for this great idea


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tsuchiro*


P8P67 Deluxe Owner here! 
add me to the list










Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you in a moment


----------



## 4x4n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Since there have been so much wondering back and fourth in this Club to whom or which motherboard brands in the Asus series should be required to be a member, we have decided to rename the Club.

The new name will be "The ASUS 1155 Owners Club'. I will begin the process of changing the OP as things evolve.

This way no one have to be left out. I have seen several times where people having Asus 1155 motherboards wondering if they are left out. It is not fair, as all Asus 1155 motherboard are very similar in they way the work and their bios layout.

rep + to certain people for this great idea










Awesome idea


----------



## munaim1

I see you have put in a fair bit of work to get this club in order, kudos to you my friend







+ rep and please do let me know if there is anything I can do to help









EDIT: I have also linked your thread on my sandy club, so that people know where to go for mobo help etc.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


I see you have put in a fair bit of work to get this club in order, kudos to you my friend







+ rep and please do let me know if there is anything I can do to help










Thanks mate







Thanks for the offer







I'll let you know if I think of something


----------



## turrican9

Is this signature okay??








*The Official ASUS 1155 Owners Club*


----------



## dennyb

Can I be the first Z68 owner to join? Great idea for the club name sir


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennyb*


Can I be the first Z68 owner to join? Great idea for the club name sir


Yes! Welcome mate !







I just have to rework a little bit on the OP


----------



## nawon72

So even though the poll hasn't ended, the decision was made? It's at 50% 50% right now.


----------



## SpammisT

Hey, awesome! This group is official!

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...l#post13007232
Pictures here, puh-leez!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


So even though the poll hasn't ended, the decision was made? It's at 50% 50% right now.


I'm afraid so. This Club was going more and more in the direction where people asked why their ASUS 1155 board was not included here. They should not be left out. All these 1155 ASUS boards have very similar bioses, and operate very identical. Sandybridge is a simple platform in those matters.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpammisT*


Hey, awesome! This group is official!

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...l#post13007232
Pictures here, puh-leez!










Added a link in OP !


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Since there have been so much wondering back and fourth in this Club to whom or which motherboard brands in the Asus series should be required to be a member, we have decided to rename the Club.

The new name will be "*The ASUS 1155 Owners Club'*. I will begin the process of changing the OP as things evolve.


Nice one








I look forward to hearing what's happening with the "ASUS 1155 Z68" and their super fast encoding and SSD cashing?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennyb*


Can I be the first Z68 owner to join? Great idea for the club name sir


hello mate








So, how is the Z68









(I'm the first to ask about the Z68)


----------



## dennyb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Nice one








I look forward to hearing what's happening with the "ASUS 1155 Z68" and their super fast encoding and SSD cashing?









hello mate








So, how is the Z68









(I'm the first to ask about the Z68)










I'm Laughing so hard......you know more about my Z 68 than I do









Heck AC --you've forgotten more than I know


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Is this signature okay??








*The Official ASUS 1155 Owners Club*










That's a very posh banner








"I'm off to do mine now"!
And I'll run just the one banner in my Sig for a week so it gets noticed better









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennyb*


I'm Laughing so hard......you know more about my Z 68 than I do









*Heck AC --you've forgotten more than I know *










If that were true, then I would be clever








And, if you learn half as much about the ASUS 1155 as you did the UD3P "then we'll all be sorted"


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


That's a very posh banner








"I'm off to do mine now"!
And I'll run just the one banner in my Sig for a week so it gets noticed better










Thanks mate !


----------



## Varrkarus

EDIT: Ignore this. It was a post that I no longer want to be here. Sorry for the inconvenience...


----------



## dennyb

Guys, here is something that will interest many of you. A few days ago while reading threads on OCN I came across a bit of info that many will find useful.

In RealTemp3.67...click on settings...you will then be able to disable/enable Turbo on the fly. The change will show up easily if you have HWINF32 Summary on the desktop along with Realtemp.

You can also enable/disable some of the energy saving features on the fly as well


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13736860*
> Guys, here is something that will interest many of you. A few days ago while reading threads on OCN I came across a bit of info that many will find useful.
> 
> In RealTemp3.67...click on settings...you will then be able to disable/enable Turbo on the fly. The change will show up easily if you have HWINF32 Summary on the desktop along with Realtemp.
> 
> You can also enable/disable some of the energy saving features on the fly as well


Thanks for posting that info







Rep +

I saw that in a thread the other day If I remember correctly. Very nice to know


----------



## Nethermir

There is a poll still ongoing but looks like this is a good idea to cover 1155 boards.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13737092*
> There is a poll still ongoing but looks like this is a good idea to cover 1155 boards.


Yeah, In the end I was convinced it was the only right thing to do


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13737129*
> Yeah, In the end I was convinced it was the only right thing to do


And it's received a good reaction for the most part too


----------



## dennyb

Just my view

This can be a great thread as it is modeled after the "Gigabyte UD3 Series" thread. The popularity of the 1155 platform is imo equal to the popularity of the 775 platform in it's early days.

The aforementioned UD3 series thread was originally only the "P" board but it evolved into all of the Giga UD3 boards thread. Look what a treasure trove of info that turned into for folks running those Gigabyte boards. Let's give this thread a chance to grow . If you decide you don't care for it you are free to unsubscribe. You can even ask to be removed from the membership list...right turrican9?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13737591*
> If you decide you don't care for it you are free to unsubscribe. You can even ask to be removed from the membership list...right turrican9?


This is correct.


----------



## ACHILEE5

He's like "the strange kid that watches through the window"








Pretend you haven't seen him, and he will go away


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13729266*
> I've added the WS Revolution too


Thanks and +Repppppp to you!







Now add me plz!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot;13737921*
> Thanks and +Repppppp to you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now add me plz!


Welcome to the Club mate !







Glad I can finally add you. You were one of the reasons I felt something needed to be done









You'll be added in a moment. You will be member number 50


----------



## oventek

Just want to throw my opinion out about the change. I personally was glad when it was just the PRO board, as it was one place to go for the specifics of "our" MB. The different series boards have differences, especially when it comes to overclocking. It was nice to not have to wade through and figure out which board it applied to.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oventek*


Just want to throw my opinion out about the change. I personally was glad when it was just the PRO board, as it was one place to go for the specifics of "our" MB. The different series boards have differences, especially when it comes to overclocking. It was nice to not have to wade through and figure out which board it applied to.


That's all well and good mate








But you've only ever posted once in this thread before.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oventek*


Is 1205 still the best bios?

Can I join the club?


And you had a lot less to say back then!
It seems like moaning motivates you more than chatting about your motherboard


----------



## oventek

Guess I cant argue with a "GURU" !

I glean information for the most part, add my 2 cents where appropriate and move on to the rest of my life. I guess that means I am not entitled to an opinion.

It also seems that more than 50 percent of the people, including me, who took the poll before it was closed agree.


----------



## nawon72

Is it normal for core 1 to be 7-10*C cooler than core 2? Ex: 59*C 68*C 67*C 65*C


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oventek;13743312*
> Just want to throw my opinion out about the change. I personally was glad when it was just the PRO board, as it was one place to go for the specifics of "our" MB. The different series boards have differences, especially when it comes to overclocking. It was nice to not have to wade through and figure out which board it applied to.


You know mate, all these motherboards have almost identical bioses.

This change will not affect much. The majority of us still have the PRO. It was not fair that people who had a WS revolution or a P8Z68-V PRO could not be members, since they have so identical bios layouts and same rules for overclocking.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13745590*
> Is it normal for core 1 to be 7-10*C cooler than core 2? Ex: 59*C 68*C 67*C 65*C


Yes it's perfectly normal









Take a look here.


----------



## turrican9

*thealex132*

You have been a vivid poster here.

What is your opinion in this matter?


----------



## Alex132

I don't really mind, seems a good idea to make a group that covers all of 1155 ASUS boards, but specially the P8P67 version. Why not combine them? I don't see a reason not to.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13748090*
> I don't really mind, seems a good idea to make a group that covers all of 1155 ASUS boards, but specially the P8P67 version. Why not combine them? I don't see a reason not to.


I agree to a certain point. But the majority of members here are P8P67 PRO owners. So maybe it would be more fair to have main focus on that motherboard but still let others join if they want.

After all, this was the motherboard that started this Club. And it is a very popular motherboard. I'm thinking I should rename the Club to








*The Official ASUS 1155/P8P67 PRO Owners Club*


----------



## SgtHop

I think I need to be part of this. Z68-V here. Running integrated.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHop;13748302*
> I think I need to be part of this. Z68-V here. Running integrated.


Welcome to the Club mate !







Feel free to post here and ask questions







I'll add you in a moment. You will be the first P8Z68-V owner in this Club


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHop;13748302*
> I think I need to be part of this. Z68-V here. Running integrated.


More the merrier









So have you tried video encoding with it yet








As they say the integrated GPU is the bizz for it









And, I'd like to see a 1155 mobo that lets us play with all the features of the chip, but still be able to use a Dedicated GPU too


----------



## SgtHop

Nah, she's a folding machine. That's all it does. If they found a way to fold on the iGPU, that would be pretty sweet, but no luck there yet.

I would too though, maybe in a future BIOS update. I remember you from the EP45 club, been a while, man.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHop;13748390*
> Nah, she's a folding machine. That's all it does. If they found a way to fold on the iGPU, that would be pretty sweet, but no luck there yet.
> 
> I would too though, maybe in a future BIOS update. *I remember you from the EP45 club, been a while, man*.


Those were the days mate








Dennyb's in here too








Just need NoG and Grish now









Yeah, them locking this bit or that bit ain't no fun!
I'd like to use it for PhysX, and would give up on a couple of MHz to do it if that's what it would take









But yeah, I'm very happy with mine








And the Q9650/UD3R went to a good home!
And it was almost a "moment" shutting it down for the last time








But then I booted this new one up









Nice to see ya again


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13748337*
> More the merrier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So have you tried video encoding with it yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As they say the integrated GPU is the bizz for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, I'd like to see a 1155 mobo that lets us play with all the features of the chip, but still be able to use a Dedicated GPU too


I saw a post a week or so ago where a guy encoded with his GPU and then encoded the same movie(I think it was) with IGPU. The result was the IGPU slammed the GPU.

I am going to see if I can find the post

@ Sgt Hop...welcome aboard sir. I too am an old EP45 guy


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13748582*
> I saw a post a week or so ago where a guy encoded with his GPU and then encoded the same movie(I think it was) with IGPU. The result was the IGPU slammed the GPU.
> 
> I am going to see if I can find the post
> 
> @ Sgt Hop...welcome aboard sir. I too am an old EP45 guy


I made a youtube link in this Clubs first post demonstrating Lucid Virtu working with the ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Motherboard


----------



## SgtHop

Ah, yes. I remember you too, Denny. Seems we all have good taste in boards then, lol. I haven't had much time to play around with mine, been having issues with my X58 machines, but it's on my to-do list for sure.

I'm quite certain I'll need help with some parts of it, this is the first Asus board I've had, so some of the things are new to me.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHop;13748622*
> Ah, yes. I remember you too, Denny. Seems we all have good taste in boards then, lol. I haven't had much time to play around with mine, been having issues with my X58 machines, but it's on my to-do list for sure.
> 
> I'm quite certain I'll need help with some parts of it, this is the first Asus board I've had, so some of the things are new to me.


My first Asus board as well and I have to admit I am finding it difficult to understand the terminology in the BIOS. I was fairly proficient with the Giga BIOS but this one has me hesitant to make many changes. I'm afraid I will end up bricking the board







.

So far I have used the full auto overclocking feature in Fast and Extreme and it really seems to do a nice job. The only thing I have changed in Manual is the BCLK Frequency and the CPU ratio. Haven't attempted to mess with the voltages as the auto ones seem to be just fine. The volts are low and the temps are fine...so I'm good with it. I have no intention of stressing this rig to see what it will do. I clocked the snot out of my Q9650 and my i5 760....but those days are over for me. I'll sit in the bleachers and watch other folks bench high







.

I haven't pushed above 4.5GHz and that was just for a CPUZ validation. I am perfectly content to run anywhere around 4.3 or thereabouts. Good to see you here


----------



## SmokinWaffle

What are you guys, 8?

Stop arguing over silly things, the OP can call the thread whatever he wants because, guess what? *It's his thread.*

I've deleted a load of posts, please try to stay on topic. If I have to come in here again for the same reason, I'll be handing out infractions.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle;13749115*
> What are you guys, 8?
> 
> Stop arguing over silly things, the OP can call the thread whatever he wants because, guess what? *It's his thread.*
> 
> I've deleted a load of posts, please try to stay on topic. If I have to come in here again for the same reason, I'll be handing out infractions.


Thanks Waffle <3


----------



## turrican9

Thanks, *SmokinWaffle*. I don't want any trolling posts in this Club..


----------



## SmokinWaffle

No problem. Any other issues, just report them, ignore them, and move on.


----------



## turrican9

For now I've made a alternative Signature for the legendary P8P67 PRO motherboard. Seeing as this is probably one of the most popular 1155 motherboards in the world, and it made the back spine of this Club I only found it right for the Club to wear it's lengendary name again.

This motherboard started the Club and most members here are owners of it. So...








*The Official ASUS 1155/P8P67 PRO Owners Club*


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*









*The Official ASUS 1155/P8P67 PRO Owners Club*










Perfect.









I put in a request to ASUS to swap my b2 mobo, recieved my UPS label yesterday and really don't wana part with my current mobo







I have to pack it up and I have to request a collection date. Man I'm gonna be without my rig for a few days.

*Anyone used the swap programme to exchange their b2 mobo for b3 know how long the process takes?*

With this being the most popular p67 mobo, I'm just gonna do a like for like swap and just keep it







Hopefully the vdroop is much less and I can keep my current overclock.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13750198*
> Perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just put in a request to ASUS to swap my b2 mobo, recieved my UPS label and really don't wana part with my current mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Anyone used the swap programme to exchange their b2 mobo for b3 know how long the process takes?*
> 
> With this being the most popular p67 mobo, I'm just gonna do a like for like swap and just keep it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully the vdroop is much less and I can keep my current overclock.


Yeah, I don't know, but there is something with the P8P67 PRO name that makes me proud. I just feel the Club needs to wear it's name









Hope your swap goes painless mate


----------



## coffeejunky

Add me
P8P67 Pro B2

Can't be bothered with the swap out, ASUS UK don't offer advanced RMA and I don't really want a refurb board tbh. My first experience of an ASUS board and it's pretty darn good, no major issues at all with mine


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coffeejunky;13750274*
> Add me
> P8P67 Pro B2
> 
> Can't be bothered with the swap out, ASUS UK don't offer advanced RMA and I don't really want a refurb board tbh. My first experience of an ASUS board and it's pretty darn good, no major issues at all with mine


Welcome to the Club, proud P8P67 PRO owner !







I'll add you in a moment !


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13750213*
> Yeah, I don't know, but there is something with the P8P67 PRO name that makes me proud. I just feel the Club needs to wear it's name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope your swap goes painless mate


Thanks bro, finally got the tag in my sig









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coffeejunky;13750274*
> Add me
> P8P67 Pro B2
> 
> Can't be bothered with the swap out, ASUS UK don't offer advanced RMA and I don't really want a refurb board tbh. My first experience of an ASUS board and it's pretty darn good, no major issues at all with mine


This is what I used to get the ball rolling. http://asus.co.uk/sandybridge_swap/


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13750360*
> Thanks bro, finally got the tag in my sig


Thanks mate







Hope we can wear this signature proudly and make the spine and backbone of something great to come !


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13750398*
> Thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope we can *wear* this signature proudly and make the spine and backbone of something great to come !


fixed hehehehe lol









Nah im playing, definitely bro even with the current members im sure this club will succeed, however it's a very popular mobo so there will be much more members









By the way anyone know how long the swap process takes?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13750432*
> fixed hehehehe lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah im playing, definitely bro even with the current members im sure this club will succeed, however it's a very popular mobo so there will be much more members
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way anyone know how long the swap process takes?


Look here...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13750213*
> Yeah, I don't know, but there is something with the P8P67 PRO name that makes me proud. I just feel the Club needs to *wear* it's name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope your swap goes painless mate


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13750160*
> For now I've made a alternative Signature for the legendary P8P67 PRO motherboard. Seeing as this is probably one of the most popular 1155 motherboards in the world, and it made the back spine of this Club I only found it right for the Club to *wear* it's lengendary name again.
> 
> This motherboard started the Club and most members here are owners of it. So...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Official ASUS 1155/P8P67 PRO Owners Club*


So it was only a unlucky moment mate


----------



## LondonUK

hey guys just completed my new build last week , havent built a pc in a long time. Anyway I have a p8p67 evo - sweet board love the uefi instead of the old BIOS.
My system is
2600k
Corsair H60
Asus P8p67 evo
8GB G Skill ripjawsx
64GB ssd Crucial M4
1TB Western digital Caviar Black 6GB -- quite a noisey thing
corsair 600t white
Sapphire 6770 Vapor X - not a big PC gamer just wanted the option of 3 displays
LG blue ray RW
and 24inch monitor

Love the p8p67 evo, btw i got the evo even though i ordered the pro from amazon (and i only paid for the pro)

quick question for you guys - when i check my cpu temps in windows 7 pro using 3rd party tools i.e cpuz... i got temp of high 20's but wheni check BIOS i get low 40's any reason for the discrepency?

Also I moved users folder to the hdd aswell as the programs data folder during the install using a guide i found on the net, but this feels like a bottleneck? maybe get another m4 in the future and have them in raid...


----------



## coffeejunky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13750432*
> fixed hehehehe lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah im playing, definitely bro even with the current members im sure this club will succeed, however it's a very popular mobo so there will be much more members
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way anyone know how long the swap process takes?


I've heard UK people say up to 10 days. Seems about right for an RMA request.


----------



## Norlig

Add me to ze Club please









Asus P8P67 Deluxe B3


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13750739*
> Add me to ze Club please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus P8P67 Deluxe B3


Welcome to the Club mate !







Feel free to post or share things here







I'll add you in a moment !


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coffeejunky*


I've heard UK people say up to 10 days. Seems about right for an RMA request.


oh wow I can't be without my rig for that long. Im gonna try and call ASUS and see what I can do.


----------



## LondonUK

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LondonUK*


hey guys just completed my new build last week , havent built a pc in a long time. Anyway I have a p8p67 evo - sweet board love the uefi instead of the old BIOS.
My system is 
2600k
Corsair H60 
Asus P8p67 evo
8GB G Skill ripjawsx
64GB ssd Crucial M4
1TB Western digital Caviar Black 6GB -- quite a noisey thing
corsair 600t white
Sapphire 6770 Vapor X - not a big PC gamer just wanted the option of 3 displays
LG blue ray RW
and 24inch monitor

Love the p8p67 evo, btw i got the evo even though i ordered the pro from amazon (and i only paid for the pro)

quick question for you guys - when i check my cpu temps in windows 7 pro using 3rd party tools i.e cpuz... i got temp of high 20's but wheni check BIOS i get low 40's any reason for the discrepency?

Also I moved users folder to the hdd aswell as the programs data folder during the install using a guide i found on the net, but this feels like a bottleneck? maybe get another m4 in the future and have them in raid...


wanted to get added to the club too please.

thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LondonUK*


wanted to get added to the club too please.

thanks


Welcome to OCN and Welcome to this Club, ASUS P8P67 EVO owner !







Feel free to roam around in here, and feel yourself at home !







! You'll be added in a moment !


----------



## turrican9

*SmokinWaffle*

Considering one of these great motherboards, mate?


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Nope. I won't be upgrading anytime this year, if anything, I'll be downsizing.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*


Nope. I won't be upgrading anytime this year, if anything, I'll be downsizing.










We had hoped you would be a big contribution to the Club mate









A strength and Power for the P8P67 PRO









Just like a 'brick wall'


----------



## turrican9

Looks like I have to be the 'brick wall' here


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Nah, I have no real interest in building PC's anymore. Considering selling up and getting one of the new 27" iMacs .









Still, I'm sure it's a very nice motherboard.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*


Nah, I have no real interest in building PC's anymore. Considering selling up and getting one of the new 27" iMacs .









Still, I'm sure it's a very nice motherboard.










Then you are failing the real enthusiasts. We hate you


----------



## SmokinWaffle

I'm actually posting from an iPad.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*











I'm actually posting from an iPad.










Ghhhh... *puuuukeeeh....*


----------



## turrican9

*SmokinWaffle*

I'm sure when the P8P67 PRO people get this news, they will kick your ass man


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*











I'm actually posting from an iPad.










Don't go to an iMac, the OS feels very limiting.


----------



## turrican9

*SmokinWaffle*

Yeah, listen to the greatness and power of the Club man


----------



## SmokinWaffle

I love OSX.









Anyhow, let's not derail this thread, if anyone wants to have a debate or discussion on it, feel free to PM me. I'm always up for a good, well natured discussion.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*


I love OSX.









Anyhow, let's not derail this thread, if anyone wants to have a debate or discussion on it, feel free to PM me. I'm always up for a good, well natured discussion.










Too late. You have already made us pissed









Come here and argue in the 'worlds most popular mobo thread' and against an old stubborn webmaster about OSX and stuff is not going to hold for long. We will kick your ass man


----------



## dennyb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*


Nah, I have no real interest in building PC's anymore. Considering selling up and getting one of the new 27" iMacs .









Still, I'm sure it's a very nice motherboard.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Then you are failing the real enthusiasts. We hate you










I'm sure this comment won't be received very well but here goes anyway.

As fast as the new platforms are @ stock speed, the need for overclocking is quickly becoming irrelevant







. A stock rig is so fast that for nearly everyone's daily usage running overclocked is a very minor improvement.

Now as a hobby that would include benching and accomplishing a higher position on threads that keep track of benching scores...from the competition stand point it is a fun thing to do. When you need software to distinguish the difference then that is where is becomes irrelevant in daily usage.

Just my opinion and please don't take offense as I used to flog my chips for records...just for the fun of it....but that for me is quickly taking a back seat.







For those of you who are still into it ...I say have at and I will follow your achievements









edit: Oops I just read the replies to Smokin Waffle and uhhhh I didn't mean any of the above


----------



## SmokinWaffle

I agree, dennyb!

All of my current components of my X58 system are, and always have been, running at stock.









I do appreciate the people who do it, and I respect it greatly, and can to a point see why they do it, but if a PC does everything you want, why potentially damage/degrade/risk it for a negligible, un-noticeable increase?

This is still on topic, too.


----------



## turrican9

Well, *SmokinWaffle* was the one who rescued this Club from trolling. We should be thankful to him


----------



## Norlig

What would be the best overclocking guide for dummies?
one that really explains each setting, and why you are setting it like that, and what you should do when you encounted a specific problem?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pangeltveit*


What would be the best overclocking guide for dummies?
one that really explains each setting, and why you are setting it like that, and what you should do when you encounted a specific problem?


Look in the second post of this thread mate







And click the 'hidden text/pictures'. There it will unfold, step by step


----------



## Alex132

The *BEST* would be doing it yourself, its how I learned to overclock on AMD.
but the easiest would be to read post #1
Only things I am confused about are PLL, VSCIO and some other small thing.

Ah ninja'ed


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


The *BEST* would be doing it yourself, its how I learned to overclock on AMD.
but the easiest would be to read post #1
Only things I am confused about are PLL, VSCIO and some other small thing.

Ah ninja'ed










*the best* is all about strength and power. Maybe you are the 'best'. In that case I hope you are proud and will share with us on the OCN man !


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*the best* is all about strength and power. Maybe you are the 'best'. In that case I hope you are proud and will share with us on the OCN man !










Haha I prefer to understand how far I am pushing the chip and what I need to do to solve BSOD's. This really helps when reaching the upper limits of a CPU in a suicide run (Which I probably will do when I get my watercooling loop)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Haha I prefer to understand how far I am pushing the chip and what I need to do to solve BSOD's. This really helps when reaching the upper limits of a CPU in a suicide run (Which I probably will do when I get my watercooling loop)


Not many years ago (and by the way, not long ago, I took my computer outside ) I took my computer in the freezer, using a peltier element.

I was crazy. My hopes was that others could be crazy these days









Or wait, it was about 12 years ago


----------



## Alex132

Haha, wish I still had my P4 system. Would love to put the whole PC in the freezer (or just the 360 rad) set to -25'c and see what overclocks I could get


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Haha, wish I still had my P4 system. Would love to put the whole PC in the freezer (or just the 360 rad) set to -25'c and see what overclocks I could get










You know boy, I was hunting those PII 300's who had the right L2 cache to hit 504MHz. But that was a long time ago









We must look forward


----------



## ShaCanX

Hey, why did you all start the party without me? Am definately in add me.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*


Hey, why did you all start the party without me? Am definately in add me.


Welcome to the Club mate







I hope you can find a home here for you and your excellent P8P67 PRO motherboard mate !









You'll be added to the Club in a moment !


----------



## ShaCanX

Glad to be in the club feel right at home already


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*


Glad to be in the club feel right at home already


Glad to hear that mate







I hope you will wear the signature as proudly as I do !







This motherboard rocks !


----------



## nykeiscool

Well its official got my board yesterday may you add me to the list so i can sig it up!
shame i wont be able to put it to work until next paycheck =[ waiting on rest of the build money

must say board looks smexyy... and call me easily amused but i'm hyped for onboard bluetooth yaaa finally can free up a port on my board.. oh and UEFI! cant wait!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nykeiscool*


Well its official got my board yesterday may you add me to the list so i can sig it up!
shame i wont be able to put it to work until next paycheck =[ waiting on rest of the build money


And is that the PRO mate ??









I cannot add you if you're not specific to what board you'll getting mate


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


And is that the PRO mate ??









I cannot add you if you're not specific to what board you'll getting mate










yup it is sorry.. i had posted earlier this week with my screen shot of my order thought you might've remembered sorry bout that


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nykeiscool*


yup it is sorry.. i had posted earlier this week with my screen shot of my order thought you might've remembered sorry bout that


I've already added you mate







I just took a guess







Welcome to this Club and hope you enjoy this Epic motherboard mate


----------



## nykeiscool

Thanks.. will be my first time actually overclocking my system so what better way to get introduced to overclocking with a sandybridge setup with them lovely uefi bios i figured!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nykeiscool*


Thanks.. will be my first time actually overclocking my system so what better way to get introduced to overclocking with a sandybridge setup with them lovely uefi bios i figured!


Mate, If you're in here, you are in the best hands







We will help you and back you up !


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Mate, If you're in here, you are in the best hands







We will help you and back you up !

























great to know! thanks in advance!


----------



## turrican9

*****


----------



## Norlig

if my motherboard post fine, but windows wont get further than the "starting windows" with the fancy logo. does that mean my cpu wont boot with the given multiplyer?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13757507*
> if my motherboard post fine, but windows wont get further than the "starting windows" with the fancy logo. does that mean my cpu wont boot with the given multiplyer?


Try to lower multi then. And you will see If that caused the problem.

For high multi's, try to enable Internal PLL Overvoltage option. Beware, this feature causes sleep/wakeup problems. If you use those.


----------



## turrican9

Updated the signatures. There are now four to select from.

Quote:


> *Signature Demo -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Official ASUS 1155/P8P67 PRO Owners Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"][I]The Official ASUS 1155/P8P67 PRO Owners Club[/I][/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]
> 
> *First Alternative Signature Demo -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Official ASUS 1155 Owners Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"][I]The Official ASUS 1155 Owners Club[/I][/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]
> 
> *Second Alternative Signature Demo -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Official ASUS 1155/PRO Owners Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"][I]The Official ASUS 1155/PRO Owners Club[/I][/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]
> 
> *Third Alternative Signature Demo -*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE Owners Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"][I]The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE Owners Club[/I][/URL][/B][IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG]


----------



## dennyb

Very nice turrican9. Now each member can select the sig that best applies and still be linked to the common thread. Very progressive thinking and +rep for that


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13758496*
> Very nice turrican9. Now each member can select the sig that best applies and still be linked to the common thread. Very progressive thinking and +rep for that


Thanks man







Appreciate your liking in this matter


----------



## turrican9

*Ddiced*, welcome to the Club mate !


----------



## Ddiced

ive got a problem with my board where everytime i startup i get a cpu fan error...
i updated my bios yesterday ; my cpu fan is spinning and is in the 4 pin connector ; i set my cpu fan speed to turbo none of those help all i can do now is disable the warning .. right ?
any help on this mather would be much appreciated !


----------



## Ddiced

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13758556*
> *Ddiced*, welcome to the Club mate !


Thanks







i will need the help lol.


----------



## DeltaUpsilon

Thanks for making the club, Turrican! I don't have many screenshots on hand, but here's one for proof - although I should've opened another CPU-Z for motherboard info.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ddiced;13758558*
> ive got a problem with my board where everytime i startup i get a cpu fan error...
> i updated my bios yesterday ; my cpu fan is spinning and is in the 4 pin connector ; i set my cpu fan speed to turbo none of those help all i can do now is disable the warning .. right ?
> any help on this mather would be much appreciated !


If you are getting the error in the AI Suite...then ignore it. I get warnings on entries where there is nothing even connected. I and a few others have had warnings about the mobo temp being 123C. Clearly a bug that needs addressing


----------



## Ddiced

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13758608*
> If you are getting the error in the AI Suite...then ignore it. I get warnings on entries where there is nothing even connected. I and a few others have had warnings about the mobo temp being 123C. Clearly a bug that needs addressing


ok thanks.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeltaUpsilon;13758601*
> Thanks for making the club, Turrican! I don't have many screenshots on hand, but here's one for proof - although I should've opened another CPU-Z for motherboard info.


You don't need any proof of ownership. We believe people are telling the truth about their ownership









Welcome to the Club mate !







You'll be added in a moment !


----------



## Ddiced

When i overclocked my cpu this week my friend told me to enable 3 things only untill i saw the overclocking guide on this site what i did made me worried so i reset it back to 3.3. Here is what i did do you think this is enough or should i follow the guide on the site.

Ai tweaker / Cpu management > cpu ratio set to 45 > speedstep disabled
Phase control extreme


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ddiced;13758667*
> When i overclocked my cpu this week my friend told me to enable 3 things only untill i saw the overclocking guide on this site what i did made me worried so i reset it back to 3.3. Here is what i did do you think this is enough or should i follow the guide on the site.
> 
> Ai tweaker / Cpu management > cpu ratio set to 45 > speedstep disabled
> Phase control extreme


You don't need to follow the guide mate. Use what works for you









That guide are showing some settings for extreme overclocks. For 4.5GHz you can relax most settings.


----------



## Ddiced

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13758680*
> You don't need to follow the guide mate. Use what works for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That guide are showing some settings for extreme overclocks. For 4.5GHz you can relax most settings.


Ok nice , going back to 4.5 then


----------



## xira

There's absolutely no reason to disable SpeedStep


----------



## Alex132

I have it enabled, and It never ever downclocks for me lol


----------



## turrican9

Okay people, have updated the third post of this Club with a little info on the P8Z68 chipset









http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1012874-official-asus-1155-p8p67-pro-owners.html#post13464109

btw: Was it not 'F12' and a USB stick to take snapshots in bios? In that case, it is now written in the first post


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13759066*
> I have it enabled, and It never ever downclocks for me lol


Not sure why. I use offset


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13759230*
> Not sure why. I use offset


I want to go to offset, but not sure what to set it to. got 5ghz stable in IBT at 1,5 volts. what do I need to set the voltage under offset to?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759320*
> I want to go to offset, but not sure what to set it to. got 5ghz stable in IBT at 1,5 volts. what do I need to set the voltage under offset to?


That depends on what your CPU VID is. Just try to increase it step by step. I suggest you try + 0.02 first.


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13759330*
> That depends on what your CPU VID is. Just try to increase it step by step. I suggest you try + 0.02 first.


the CPU VID is stock volts, right?

and what does +0.02 equal in voltage/increments?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759351*
> the CPU VID is stock volts, right?


That is correct. And to look at it's real VID you need to clock your CPU to stock, disable Turbo and look in Core Temp for it's VID. May be you have to do it under load.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759351*
> the CPU VID is stock volts, right?
> 
> and what does +0.02 equal in voltage/increments?


On second thought, you should probably try + 0.15 first. Not 0.015 but + 0.15

And it means if your CPU set stock volts at 1.35v for 5GHz, +0.15v will give you 1.5v Vcore under load.


----------



## Norlig

the volts core temp give me at the moment are:
No load:
-lowest: 0.9957v
-highest:1.22v
Load w/IBT:
-lowest:1.246v
-highest: 1.261v

whats the next step?


----------



## Ddiced

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13759066*
> I have it enabled, and It never ever downclocks for me lol


ok , i enabled it again is there anything else i should change/add ?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759445*
> the volts core temp give me at the moment are:
> No load:
> -lowest: 0.9957v
> -highest:1.22v
> Load w/IBT:
> -lowest:1.246v
> -highest: 1.261v
> 
> whats the next step?


Your VID will depend on what overclock you're running. So you will have to experiment.

So my best suggestion is to try it at 5GHz, if that's your target, and just try + 0.15v Offset. Then boot Windows, put it under load and see what Vcore you get.


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13759470*
> Your VID will depend on what overclock you're running. So you will have to experiment.


i dont understand what you mean? i have 5ghz at 1.5v. in bios it shows me 1.512v atm.

if i switch to offset voltage, i can chose between + & - and velow there cpu offset voltage.
will offset voltage have a higher stable voltage?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759511*
> i dont understand what you mean? i have 5ghz at 1.5v. in bios it shows me 1.512v atm.
> 
> if i switch to offset voltage, i can chose between + & - and velow there cpu offset voltage.
> will offset voltage have a higher stable voltage?


When you switch to Offset, the CPU will use a stock/VID. But it will vary with clock frequency. You add Offset on top of this Vcore. Just try and do like I said.

In my system, Vcore do not fluctuate as much when I use Offset. For some Offset can give BSOD when Idle. You will just have to try and find out what works best for you mate


----------



## Norlig

it reached 1.6v then it shutoff withno bluescreen. set offset to 0.6, but that gave me a bluescreen 0x0124. higher offset ?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759571*
> it reached 1.6v then it shutoff withno bluescreen. set offset to 0.6, but that gave me a bluescreen 0x0124. higher offset ?


That is way to high man. Try +0.15 first. Isn't your target about 1.5v Vcore?

And only look at the Voltage when in Windows and under Load. Bios will often not show the correct Vcore.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759511*
> i dont understand what you mean? i have 5ghz at 1.5v. in bios it shows me 1.512v atm.
> 
> if i switch to offset voltage, i can chose between + & - and velow there cpu offset voltage.
> will offset voltage have a higher stable voltage?


Thats a lotta volts. I would never be comfortable running that. Heck I dont like running above 1.4v thats why my 24/7 is 4.8Ghz at 1.38v


----------



## turrican9

*thealex132*

Since you have such a nice rig. 5GHz and that beauty of a case, I think the ELITE variant of the Club signature will fit you
















*The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE Owners Club*


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13759586*
> That is way to high man. Try +0.15 first. Isn't your target about 1.5v Vcore?
> 
> And only look at the Voltage when in Windows and under Load. Bios will often not show the correct Vcore.


i had it at 0.15v it gave me 1.6v. any lower than +0.12 wont boot past login screen=/


----------



## Alex132

I can't my sig is already 8 lines long









pangeltveit try 0.040+ and 45x multi. Then slowly up the multi till you get 0x0124


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759643*
> i had it at 0.15v it gave me 1.6v. any lower than +0.12 wont boot past login screen=/


Do not go over 1.52v. That is Intel's absolute max

Just decrease that Offset then.

For 24/7 I would think 1.4v Vcore is nice. Many go higher than this though.


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13759656*
> Do not go over 1.52v. That is Intel's absolute max
> 
> Just decrease that Offset then.
> 
> For 24/7 I would think 1.4v Vcore is nice. Many go higher than this though.


I'll do as thealex suggested. dont want to ruin my chip if I cant get it to offset at 1.5v at 5ghz


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759682*
> I'll do as thealex suggested. dont want to ruin my chip if I cant get it to offset at 1.5v at 5ghz


Yeah, do not risk your chip man.

Mine needs about ~1.47v for Blend stable 4.8GHz. So for me it's not worth it. I keep it at 4.5GHz ~1.368v for 24/7. Only 300MHz lower and much lesser Vcore.


----------



## Alex132

Wow 1.47v for 4.8Ghz? That's not nice








I only need 0.02v more than your 4.5Ghz clock for 4.8Ghz


----------



## Norlig

how many Gflops do you reach in IBT?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13759733*
> Wow 1.47v for 4.8Ghz? That's not nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only need 0.02v more than your 4.5Ghz clock for 4.8Ghz


Yeah, it's all about luck. I got a mediocre one


----------



## Alex132

I haven't run IBT yet, I think it fails (cooling aint goodenough) I get 65'c max in Prime95 but it goes over 85'c in IBT LOL.

I think I did 1 or 2 runs and I got 128GFlops IIRC


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759735*
> how many Gflops do you reach in IBT?


About 121Gflops when at 4.5GHz


----------



## Norlig

128 for me too atm. 5 runstable with IBT at maximum. max temp is 69 on core#2. its 13 degrees higher than core #0 for some reason. running blendnow and then I'll see if i can get a offset working


----------



## turrican9

Also, be sure to check out *munaim1's* Sandy stable Club. He is also a member of this Club









*[] The Sandy STABLE Club []*


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759774*
> 128 for me too atm. 5 runstable with IBT at maximum. max temp is 69 on core#2. its 13 degrees higher than core #0 for some reason. running blendnow and then I'll see if i can get a offset working


Also, since you have the Deluxe motherboard, and are from Norway, I think you should wear the ELITE variant of the Club signature
















*The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE Owners Club*


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759320*
> I want to go to offset, but not sure what to set it to. got 5ghz stable in IBT at 1,5 volts. what do I need to set the voltage under offset to?


I think offset is stock volts + the offset you set, I'm not sure. You could treat it like manual voltage and start at +0.005 with Ultra LLC and the like and slowly increase it from there (increments of 0.005)


----------



## Norlig

need to charge the ipad too now. but it wont charge in any of the usb plugs... maybe I should have bought a gigabyte board for the 3x usb power









ai charging utility fixed that


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pangeltveit*


need to charge the ipad too now. but it wont charge in any of the usb plugs... maybe I should have bought a gigabyte board for the 3x usb power









ai charging utility fixed that


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;13759918*
> need to charge the ipad too now. but it wont charge in any of the usb plugs... maybe I should have bought a gigabyte board for the 3x usb power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ai charging utility fixed that


Where is this said utility? I wanna use it >_>


----------



## Darkchylde

Hi Guys,

This is my 1st post here, so i apologize if my questions have already been covered. I've had my new system up and running for about a week or so - as you can see from the specs below, I'm hoping to join the P8P67 Pro club.

I've OC'ed to 4.5Ghz as per the description given in an earlier page and i mainly have 3 questions:
I've been running Prime95 for about 30minutes and my Vcore is running at about 1.32 and my CPU temp is between 59 and 61 degrees C (its about 8pm for me at the moment, so ambient temp for me is pretty low) - is this Good / Normal / Below Average - is this even the correct question to be asking?

How accurate is the AI suite for tracking the voltages and temps?

Lastly, I fully understand the appeal / need to overclock and I'm really impressed with some of the figures some of the members have been able to achieve, I've been running stock for about a week and there hasnt been a game that I've installed that i cant run smoothly at all settings set to their highest - do i actually need to overclock???

I really appreciate all your answers and insight


----------



## Alex132

Hey a fellow South African










That is decent temps with your cooler.

There currently is no _need_ to overclock, but it will result in more FPS in games and more PPD when folding


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkchylde*


Hi Guys,

This is my 1st post here, so i apologize if my questions have already been covered. I've had my new system up and running for about a week or so - as you can see from the specs below, I'm hoping to join the P8P67 Pro club.

I've OC'ed to 4.5Ghz as per the description given in an earlier page and i mainly have 3 questions:
I've been running Prime95 for about 30minutes and my Vcore is running at about 1.32 and my CPU temp is between 59 and 61 degrees C (its about 8pm for me at the moment, so ambient temp for me is pretty low) - is this Good / Normal / Below Average - is this even the correct question to be asking?

How accurate is the AI suite for tracking the voltages and temps?

Lastly, I fully understand the appeal / need to overclock and I'm really impressed with some of the figures some of the members have been able to achieve, I've been running stock for about a week and there hasnt been a game that I've installed that i cant run smoothly at all settings set to their highest - do i actually need to overclock???

I really appreciate all your answers and insight


Hello fellow ASUS P8P67 PRO owner. First of all, welcome to the Club and welcome to OCN !







I'll add you in a moment. You'll find four different Club signatures in the first post of this Club. For you I would suggest using the P8P67 PRO variant mate









Second, you're settings, Vcore and temps looks very nice







At 4.5GHz you have plenty of power. Overclocking past that will not gain you much, especially if you're using only one GPU.

Third, again welcome to the Club ! Feel free to ask qustions and look around. Hope you can find a home in here, for you and your excellent motherboard!


----------



## Darkchylde

thealex132 - So just the 2 of us then???

I suppose it is just nice to know that a particular system has the headroom for overclocking and what people are actually able to achieve in real life scenarios.

I think i'm going to set everything back to stock again keep an eye on this forum - i havent got my hands on Metro 2033 yet (apparently bit of a killer), so i may still need some advice to get everything out of it

Thanks again for your reply

turrican9 - thanks, will update with a signature in a minute or 2

cheers


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Hey a fellow South African









That is decent temps with your cooler.

There currently is no _need_ to overclock, but it will result in more FPS in games and more PPD when folding










^ What he/she said









If you feel that your cpu can handle everything that you throw at it, there's no need to OC. The knowledge you gain from it is nice though.

Sometimes I feel sorry for my cpu when I OC. When running IBT or P95, I could imagine my cpu shouting "Noooooo it's hot!!! It burns!!! I'm running whatever you want perfectly!!! Why are you torturing meeeee!!!"


----------



## Darkchylde

lol, i get that same cpu "voice" in my head - i wouldnt listen in most cases, but this current system is the most expensive (to me anyway) that i've bought, so need it to run problem free as long as possible


----------



## nykeiscool

What do you guys think.. Will a 650TX be enough for a Single 6870 and 2600k and Rasa Kit if im trying to go extreme overclocking 4.5-5.0ghz? or should i spring for the 700 "gaming series" corsair and leave out the extra three fans for a push and pulll (its an either or thing)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13761195*
> What do you guys think.. Will a 650TX be enough for a Single 6870 and 2600k and Rasa Kit if im trying to go extreme overclocking 4.5-5.0ghz? or should i spring for the 700 "gaming series" corsair and leave out the extra three fans for a push and pulll (its an either or thing)


TX 650 will do mate


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkchylde;13761099*
> thealex132 - So just the 2 of us then???
> 
> I suppose it is just nice to know that a particular system has the headroom for overclocking and what people are actually able to achieve in real life scenarios.
> 
> I think i'm going to set everything back to stock again keep an eye on this forum - i havent got my hands on Metro 2033 yet (apparently bit of a killer), so i may still need some advice to get everything out of it
> 
> Thanks again for your reply
> 
> turrican9 - thanks, will update with a signature in a minute or 2
> 
> cheers


There are a lot more of us here








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkchylde;13761182*
> lol, i get that same cpu "voice" in my head - i wouldnt listen in most cases, but this current system is the most expensive (to me anyway) that i've bought, so need it to run problem free as long as possible


I get a voice saying "mmm thats hot baby make me run faster"
LOL


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nykeiscool*


What do you guys think.. Will a 650TX be enough for a Single 6870 and 2600k and Rasa Kit if im trying to go extreme overclocking 4.5-5.0ghz? or should i spring for the 700 "gaming series" corsair and leave out the extra three fans for a push and pulll (its an either or thing)


Yep 100% fine


----------



## Narmo23

First time poster here. Hopefully I could join the club w/ my P8P67 Pro







?

I have a question regarding OC Tuner: is it safe? I somehow allowed this to work (BIOs), seeing the following changes:

CPU: 3.3GHz to 3.4GHz (mild OC, for sure)
RAM: 1333MHz @ 1.5v to 1600MHz range @ 1.65v (at least I noticed it @ 1.65v. Could OC Tuner up the voltage past that, despite the fact that doing so is definitely not recommended?)

First, my RAM is allowed to work @ 1600MHz (it's advertised as 9-9-9-24, 1600MHz @ 1.65v), and is also on the mobo guide's QVL.

Anyways, just curious if the effects of OC Tuner could've done any damage to the CPU and/or mobo in the span of 10 or so minutes (was trying to find the "default settings" option ^^). I figured OC Tuner would be safe, as I assumed it would make moderate changes.

Sorry for asking a question that may have been answered before









Thanks!

P.S. Yeah, I know OC Tuner isn't great, as you can get better mileage from manually OC'ing. I also know that going above 1.575v for the RAM isn't recommended by Intel, hence the post.


----------



## Alex132

Use the BIOS. Its MUCH better. Manually set your RAM to 1600Mhz at an 1.5125v

Also I would follow the OP's guide for overclocking your CPU on page 1


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Narmo23*


First time poster here. Hopefully I could join the club w/ my P8P67 Pro







?

I have a question regarding OC Tuner: is it safe? I somehow allowed this to work, seeing the following changes:

CPU: 3.3GHz to 3.4GHz (mild OC, for sure)
RAM: 1333MHz @ 1.5v to 1600MHz range @ 1.65v (at least I think it was 1.65v?)

First, my RAM is allowed to work @ 1600MHz (it's advertised as 9-9-9-24, 1600MHz @ 1.65v), and is also on the mobo guide's QVL.

Anyways, just curious if the effects of OC Tuner could've done any damage to the CPU and/or mobo in the span of 10 or so minutes (was trying to find the "default settings" option ^^)

Sorry for asking a question that may have been answered before









Thanks!

P.S. Yeah, I know OC Tuner isn't great, as you can get better mileage from manually OC'ing. I also know that going above 1.575v for the RAM isn't recommended by Intel, hence the post.


Hello mate !







Welcome to the Elite/P8P67 PRO Club and Welcome to OCN !







I'll add you in a moment. Since you're a PRO owner I would suggest going with the P8P67 PRO Signature variant !









Many people have reported that OC tuner is totally wild. And gives way off Vcore adjustments.

I highly doubt you have damaged anything. As long as you did not get any erratic behaviour









I would advice you to use manual overclocking !


----------



## Narmo23

First, thanks for letting me in!

Second, yeah, I didn't experience any strange behavior or anything shortly after I got everything back to their defaults. In the span of two hours (would've been more, but it was getting a little too late!), everything seemed okay -- games I usually play, for instance, exhibited no differences.

Anyways, thanks for the quick responses, you two. Much appreciated.


----------



## Eaglake

Wanting to join your club
I've got P8P67 Deluxe


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


Wanting to join your club
I've got P8P67 Deluxe


I bid you welcome to the Club, P8P67 Deluxe owner!







You'll be added in a moment









For you I would recommend the ELITE signature variant


----------



## xira

Speaking of the Auto Tuner, it thought 1.5V was an OK voltage.









Kind of off topic, but do you think my two top 140mm case fans should blow cold air in or suck hot air out?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xira*


Speaking of the Auto Tuner, it thought 1.5V was an OK voltage.










No one really knows. It's too early to see long term effects. Intel says the absolute max is 1.52v. That is not to say they recommend it for 24/7.

btw: I see you're wearing the old Club signature.

I would recommend this one, since you have the PRO mate
















*The Official ASUS 1155/P8P67 PRO Owners Club*


----------



## xira

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


No one really knows. It's too early to see long term effects. Intel says the absolute max is 1.52v. That is not to say they recommend it for 24/7.

btw: I see you're wearing the old Club signature.

I would recommend this one, since you have the PRO mate
















*The Official ASUS 1155/P8P67 PRO Owners Club*










As you wish


----------



## 4x4n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Narmo23*


First time poster here. Hopefully I could join the club w/ my P8P67 Pro







?

I have a question regarding OC Tuner: is it safe? I somehow allowed this to work (BIOs), seeing the following changes:

CPU: 3.3GHz to 3.4GHz (mild OC, for sure)
RAM: 1333MHz @ 1.5v to 1600MHz range @ 1.65v (at least I noticed it @ 1.65v. Could OC Tuner up the voltage past that, despite the fact that doing so is definitely not recommended?)

First, my RAM is allowed to work @ 1600MHz (it's advertised as 9-9-9-24, 1600MHz @ 1.65v), and is also on the mobo guide's QVL.

Anyways, just curious if the effects of OC Tuner could've done any damage to the CPU and/or mobo in the span of 10 or so minutes (was trying to find the "default settings" option ^^). I figured OC Tuner would be safe, as I assumed it would make moderate changes.

Sorry for asking a question that may have been answered before









Thanks!

P.S. Yeah, I know OC Tuner isn't great, as you can get better mileage from manually OC'ing. I also know that going above 1.575v for the RAM isn't recommended by Intel, hence the post.


I thought the auto tune worked pretty good on my setup. Gave me 4.9ghz at almost 1.5v







I highly doubt you did any damage.

And why does everyone say not to run vdimm at 1.65? I've been running that ever since I first booted my 2600k up.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *4x4n*


I thought the auto tune worked pretty good on my setup. Gave me 4.9ghz at almost 1.5v







I highly doubt you did any damage.

And why does everyone say not to run vdimm at 1.65? I've been running that ever since I first booted my 2600k up.


Congrats! You just got the 1K post in this Club!


----------



## 4x4n

Ha ha ha, do I win a prize.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *4x4n*


Ha ha ha, do I win a prize.










Well, I gave you a + Rep









And also, If you look in the first post and members list of this Club, we are all ****The ELITE Members***** now


----------



## turrican9

Added two more Signature options. Combined the others.

Quote:



*1st Combined Signature Demo -*







*The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE/P8P67 PRO Owners Club*









Code:


Code:


[CODE]
:clock:[B][THREAD=1012874][I]The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE/P8P67 PRO Owners Club[/I][/THREAD][/B]:clock:

[/CODE]

*2nd Combined Signature Demo -*







*The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE/PRO Owners Club*









Code:


Code:


[CODE]
:clock:[B][THREAD=1012874][I]The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE/PRO Owners Club[/I][/THREAD][/B]:clock:

[/CODE]


----------



## Thogar

From my understanding, you can use a PCI-e x1 card in the PCI-e x16_3 slot, while having 2 cards SLI'd, as it will only disable the PCI-e x1_2 slot (which would be blocked off from gpu's anyway)?
So that means i can use the top PCI-e x1 slot and the bottom PCI-e x16 slot for PCI-e x1 cards, while having 2 cards SLI'd correct?
Confusing lol, talking about my sig board btw.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thogar*


From my understanding, you can use a PCI-e x1 card in the PCI-e x16_3 slot, while having 2 cards SLI'd, as it will only disable the PCI-e x1_2 slot (which would be blocked off from gpu's anyway)?
So that means i can use the top PCI-e x1 slot and the bottom PCI-e x16 slot for PCI-e x1 cards, while having 2 cards SLI'd correct?
Confusing lol, talking about my sig board btw.


I believe the third slot is only x4. And the two top slots are x16. But if SLI'd or Crossfired they will operate in x8 + x8.


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thogar;13763387*
> From my understanding, you can use a PCI-e x1 card in the PCI-e x16_3 slot, while having 2 cards SLI'd, as it will only disable the PCI-e x1_2 slot (which would be blocked off from gpu's anyway)?
> So that means i can use the top PCI-e x1 slot and the bottom PCI-e x16 slot for PCI-e x1 cards, while having 2 cards SLI'd correct?
> Confusing lol, talking about my sig board btw.


No sure with SLI, but I got a PCI-E 1x Sound card in the bottomn PCI-E 16x (Wired 4x) slot. It supports 1x and 4x devices


----------



## Eaglake

I have a question
I bought 4GB of ram, then I felt need for another 4GB of the same ram
And now I'm concerned I've got 4 sticks of ram @ 1.65V can't something bad happen?


----------



## Narmo23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;13768010*
> I have a question
> I bought 4GB of ram, then I felt need for another 4GB of the same ram
> And now I'm concerned I've got 4 sticks of ram @ 1.65V can't something bad happen?


Assuming you have something like 1600 MHz @ 1.65v, shouldn't your MB underclock + undervolt them to 1333 MHz @ 1.5v? I'm running 2 * 2GB sticks rated at 1600 MHz @ 1.65v, and my MB does what I said in the previous sentence.

On a different note, I've noticed my temps @ idle fluctuating from 31*C to 37*C. Is that supposed to be normal? Everything's @ stock settings (HSF is also stock), and room temperature is just about normal.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Narmo23;13768177*
> Assuming you have something like 1600 MHz @ 1.65v, shouldn't your MB underclock + undervolt them to 1333 MHz @ 1.5v? I'm running 2 * 2GB sticks rated at 1600 MHz @ 1.65v, and my MB does what I said in the previous sentence.
> 
> On a different note, I've noticed my temps @ idle fluctuating from 31*C to 37*C. Is that supposed to be normal? Everything's @ stock settings (HSF is also stock), and room temperature is just about normal.


nah mine dosn't do that








I was just wondering if it's safe...if not i'll undervolt them manualy

As for the temps...maybe a bad airflow in your case?
I changed my case and temps droped down by 7C


----------



## Narmo23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;13768212*
> As for the temps...maybe a bad airflow in your case?
> I changed my case and temps droped down by 7C


.

Maybe, though I'm not too sure..

Just now, I left Core Temp on while my system was @ idle (nothing open) for around 5 minutes. The temps seem to hover around 30-32'ish, with some spikes up to 36-37 (doesn't happen often, and if it does, it goes back down to 30-32'ish and stays there for a while).

I'm probably just overreacting


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;13768010*
> I have a question
> I bought 4GB of ram, then I felt need for another 4GB of the same ram
> And now I'm concerned I've got 4 sticks of ram @ 1.65V can't something bad happen?


I think it should be just fine. Nothing to worry about mate


----------



## Wabbit16

Hello guys!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16;13769744*
> Hello guys!


Should we add you to the Club, ASUS P8P67 M-PRO owner?


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13769769*
> Should we add you to the Club, ASUS P8P67 M-PRO owner?


Pretty please - maybe you can add that I have half of a working motherboard?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16;13769808*
> Pretty please - maybe you can add that I have half of a working motherboard?


Then Welcome to the Club mate !







Naah, I think we should leave that info out for now









You'll be added in a moment !









Feel free to pick one of the 6 signature options. I would recommend either the 1155/PRO or 1155 ELITE/PRO variant for you


----------



## Wabbit16

Sig added and joined









Now, who can sponsor me a new motherboard?


----------



## munaim1

collection date for my b2 mobo is tomorrow, looks like I'll be without my rig for 7-10days.









Wish me luck guys, hope this goes swiftly.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


collection date for my b2 mobo is tomorrow, looks like I'll be without my rig for 7-10days.









Wish me luck guys, hope this goes swiftly.


Good luck mate









I assume you have a laptop or secondary system so you can still post on the OCN


----------



## age_ruler1

Can I join?

I have Asus Maximus IV









I'll post pics later.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *age_ruler1*


Can I join?

I have Asus Maximus IV









I'll post pics later.


Welcome to the Club, ASUS Maximus IV owner!







You'll be the first in this Club, with that top-end ELITE motherboard









I'll add you in a moment







Look forward to your pictures mate









For signature I would recommend you go with the 'The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE Owners Club' variant


----------



## age_ruler1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Welcome to the Club, ASUS Maximus IV owner!







You'll be the first in this Club, with that top-end ELITE motherboard









I'll add you in a moment







Look forward to your pictures mate









For signature I would recommend you go with the 'The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE Owners Club' variant










Nice!! I didn't notice I was the first one.







feels good.. Feels good Hahah

Anyways, I think I'll post pics next week. My camara broke and I'm waiting the new one to arrive lol.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *age_ruler1*


Nice!! I didn't notice I was the first one.







feels good.. Feels good Hahah

Anyways, I think I'll post pics next week. My camara broke and I'm waiting the new one to arrive lol.


How is that Cooler MasterÂ® - N520 Dual 92mm fan cooler? How does it compare to the stock Hyper 212+?


----------



## Akehage

seems that my external 2 usbports doesnt work. You got them with the board. But have them plugged in to a usb in the mb. you know what stick I meen?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akehage*


seems that my external 2 usbports doesnt work. You got them with the board. But have them plugged in to a usb in the mb. you know what stick I meen?


You are thinking of the USB 3.0 bracket that comes with the board?


----------



## 4.54billionyears

p8p67 pro


----------



## Akehage

well, I really dont know, it was a metalpiece with 2 usbports that could be mounted at the back of the chassi. So think it was the one you are talking about. Maybe wrong port just? Should I put them in a usb3port?

Edit: my 100 post


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akehage*


well, I really dont know, it was a metalpiece with 2 usbports that could be mounted at the back of the chassi. So think it was the one you are talking about. Maybe wrong port just? Should I put them in a usb3port?

Edit: my 100 post










Congrats with you posts 100 mate !









So you have plugged the bracket in the blue header below the RAM slots and the ports are not working?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *4.54billionyears*


p8p67 pro


 Nice system







Did you want to join?


----------



## Akehage

Turrican. Thanks M8 =)

By the way, do you live here in this thread? Always in here answering =)

Yes, I have done so, and it is not working. In my devicemanager, I have 2 usb ports that cannot find their drivers. Thinking it must be theese ones.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akehage*


Turrican. Thanks M8 =)

By the way, do you live here in this thread? Always in here answering =)

Yes, I have done so, and it is not working. In my devicemanager, I have 2 usb ports that cannot find their drivers. Thinking it must be theese ones.


Please install your USB 3.0/chipset drivers then. Download the latest from ASUS website. You find links in the first post of this Club. I think you have to install the USB 3.0 drivers for it to work.

Yes, I live in here


----------



## Akehage

I do think I have done that, but maybe missed them..hmm..I can take a check later on today if I can find them. I thought that they were for the original usbports though.

Haha, yeah, I understand you live here, nice group indeed, people with good taste only


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akehage*


I do think I have done that, but maybe missed them..hmm..I can take a check later on today if I can find them. I thought that they were for the original usbports though.

Haha, yeah, I understand you live here, nice group indeed, people with good taste only










There are unique drivers for the USB 3.0 controller.


----------



## Akehage

Sweet, must be the case that I have missed them! As always, a big thanks man


----------



## Akehage

btw, have som other unknown device-things in my devicemanager, posting a screen later and maybe you know what more drivers that are needed =)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akehage*


btw, have som other unknown device-things in my devicemanager, posting a screen later and maybe you know what more drivers that are needed =)


Probably the Intel Management Engine Interface driver. Also, download from website and install.


----------



## Nethermir

Question: After improving my cable management, I plugged my hdd to the intel 6/gb sata ports. Now when booting up, I see a Marvell screen saying "No hard drive detected!". Is there any way to get rid of that screen? It only shows up for 2 secs or so but my pc still boots up just fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *4.54billionyears*


p8p67 pro











Nice cat!


----------



## Akehage

@Nethermir

Just disable the marvel controller in bios, simple as that =)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13772961*
> Question: After improving my cable management, I plugged my hdd to the intel 6/gb sata ports. Now when booting up, I see a Marvell screen saying "No hard drive detected!". Is there any way to get rid of that screen? It only shows up for 2 secs or so but my pc still boots up just fine.
> Nice cat!


Yeah, sorry, didn't see you had a question because of that big picture









Yeah, try to disable the Marvell cotroller in bios, just like *Akehage* says.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13770454*
> Good luck mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume you have a laptop or secondary system so you can still post on the OCN


yup a crappy laptop will have to do.


----------



## Shane1244

Just bought the Asus P8P67. I'd love to join!







What kind of overclocks should I be looking at with a P/P H50 and 2600k?


----------



## Nethermir

@akehage, turrican9: thanks! So much better without it, faster booting time..yeah no SSD lol.

Shane: at least 4.5 Ghz


----------



## Shane1244

wooohoo!







That's so crazy. I payed only $365 with taxes and shipping for the CPU, Mobo, and RAM. Probably the best upgrade ever.


----------



## cmeeks

BAM!


----------



## Nethermir

I just found out that my OC is not stable







I have a +0.050 offset and it will run Prime95 for only about 2-3 hours and it either freezes or BSOD 124. Now I have to go up to +0.060 and try that. What is the normal offset for 4.5 Ghz? I really can't run this 24/7 on Prime because this is my only running PC for work at the moment


----------



## Alex132

.050 gets you what voltage?
I think I have 0.050 for my 4.8Ghz


----------



## Nethermir

@thealex132: +0.050 gives me around 1.312V-1.336V I think.

@cmeeks: nice board, now join us! lol.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13779773*
> Just bought the Asus P8P67. I'd love to join!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of overclocks should I be looking at with a P/P H50 and 2600k?


Welcome to the Club mate !







You'll be added in a moment !









I assume it's the Vanilla P8P67??

Overclock: 4.5 - 5GHz range. Depends how lucky you are with the Chip, mate


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13783907*
> @thealex132: +0.050 gives me around 1.312V-1.336V I think.
> 
> @cmeeks: nice board, now join us! lol.


For me it gives me 1.384-1.139v


----------



## dennyb

ok Z68 owners I have questions. I am now running the IGPU as primary and the 4830 as secondary. I went into the AI Suite to see about overclocking the IGPU. The stock setting is 1100MHz in GPU Boost and the upper slider allows 50MHz increases. The bottom slider is for voltage adjustment.

My question concerns
1) how much should I increase the speed?
2) What benefit will I see?
3) Does it affect the CPU overclock in any way?
4) when and how much voltage should be added?
5) it asks if I want to reboot to apply the settings. Will they be permanently applied as it would in BIOS>>>f10...yes


----------



## turrican9

*dennyb*

Hi, mate. As of now there are only you and one P8Z68-V owner in this Club, so let's hope some Z68 owners come by. It is very early for Z68. Not many owners


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13784692*
> *dennyb*
> 
> Hi, mate. As of now there are only you and one P8Z68-V owner in this Club, so let's hope you some Z68 owners come by. It is very early for Z68 yet


Thanks turrican9. Yes..early and still a lot of unknowns concerning this variant but I figure this is the best place to get the topic started.

I confess this is my first Asus board and I am not comfortable in trying to forge into new territory....so I'm content to follow other folks direction. I was braver with my Giga boards as I pretty much knew what BIOS settings did what......here not so much.

Eventually things will get sorted


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13784756*
> Thanks turrican9. Yes..early and still a lot of unknowns concerning this variant but I figure this is the best place to get the topic started.
> 
> I confess this is my first Asus board and I am not comfortable in trying to forge into new territory....so I'm content to follow other folks direction. I was braver with my Giga boards as I pretty much knew what BIOS settings did what......here not so much.
> 
> Eventually things will get sorted


No matter how you look at it, 1155 Sandybridge is much simpler when it comes to overclocking VS the old 775 overclocking with it's bells and whistles, and GTL tuning









So there will never be so much discussions and and overclocking talk surrounding 1155 Sandy, as with the 775


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13784807*
> No matter how you look at it, 1155 Sandybridge is much simpler when it comes to overclocking VS the old 775 overclocking with it's bells and whistles, and GTL tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there will never be so much discussions and and overclocking talk surrounding 1155 Sandy, as with the 775


Do you think I should post the subject in Intel CPU section or Mobo section?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13784897*
> Do you think I should post the subject in Intel CPU section or Mobo section?


If you do not get respons here, you should try it. As said, very early for Z68


----------



## billythekid2012

hi guy i am trying to update my motherboard drivers on my asus p67 deluxe
but there are to drivers i get this message when i try to down load them
i tryed like 5 different sites.
here the 2 drivers
and do i have to uninstall the old drivers frist


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012;13785051*
> hi guy i am trying to update my motherboard drivers on my asus p67 deluxe
> but there are to drivers i get this message when i try to down load them
> i tryed like 5 different sites.
> here the 2 drivers
> and do i have to uninstall the old drivers frist


Please download from here http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8P67_DELUXE/

Or Look for the latest of each driver in this thread http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/910402-asus-p67-series-information-thread-drivers.html

Links are posted almost at the top of the first post in this Club.


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13785097*
> Please download from here http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8P67_DELUXE/
> 
> Or Look for the latest of each driver in this thread http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/910402-asus-p67-series-information-thread-drivers.html
> 
> Links are posted almost at the top of the first post in this Club.


hi that where i am trying to down load from
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...d-drivers.html
i did go to asus but there drivrs are behind.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012;13785212*
> hi that where i am trying to down load from
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...d-drivers.html
> i did go to asus but there drivrs are behind.


So just let Windows Defender/Security Essentsials to allow the files to be installed.


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13785233*
> So just let Windows Defender/Security Essentsials to allow the files to be installed.


i just try right from intel and get the same thing
sorry don.t want to sound dumb but how do i let Windows Defender/Security Essentsials to allow the files to be installed
and thanks for helping


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012;13785289*
> i just try right from intel and get the same thing
> sorry don.t want to sound dumb but how do i let Windows Defender/Security Essentsials to allow the files to be installed
> and thanks for helping


Try to select 'actions' and see if you get some options.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13783907*
> @cmeeks: nice board, now join us! lol.


I just add it to my signature, right?


----------



## SacredChaos

Count me In I have a P8Z68 V on the way.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmeeks;13785336*
> I just add it to my signature, right?


If you wanna join, you make a post, state what board you have and ask to join. Just like it says in the first post of this Club









I see you have already 'joined' So I will add you mate !







Welcome to the Club !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SacredChaos;13785353*
> Count me In I have a P8Z68 V on the way.


You'll be added aswell! Welcome !


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13784113*
> Welcome to the Club mate !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll be added in a moment !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume it's the Vanilla P8P67??
> 
> Overclock: 4.5 - 5GHz range. Depends how lucky you are with the Chip, mate


Yep, Vanilla!









Omggg so pretty much a almost guarantee 4.5Ghz?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13785627*
> Yep, Vanilla!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Omggg so pretty much a almost guarantee 4.5Ghz?


Yeah, I don't believe I've heard anyone not making it to 4.5GHz


----------



## nawon72

Assuming the only variable is LLC, which is better: High LLC(50%) or Normal LLC(0%)

And is there any benefit in benchmarks, or real world usage from disabling HT in order to get a higher OC with the same temps?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Assuming the only variable is LLC, which is better: High LLC(50%) or Normal LLC(0%)

And is there any benefit in benchmarks, or real world usage from disabling HT in order to get a higher OC with the same temps?


If you want lesser Vdrop, you use a higher LLC. So LLC 50% would be better then LLC 0% in this case. Most of us use LLC at Ultra hight to get lesser Vdrop.

I think there would be minimal to gain from disabling HT. Anyway, the point you buying a 2600K instead of 2500K would be gone if you disabled HT.


----------



## Cabhills

Hi, I would like to join the club. My board is ASUS P8Z68-V Pro and I finished my build last night. Going to get into overclocking in a bit after reading the first post.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cabhills*


Hi, I would like to join the club. My board is ASUS P8Z68-V Pro and I finished my build last night. Going to get into overclocking in a bit after reading the first post.


Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you in a moment !


----------



## awf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you in a moment !










I would like to join too, just finished and tweaking my P8P67 Rev3.1 build.

Thanks
















*The Official ASUS 1155 Owners Club*


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awf;13790659*
> I would like to join too, just finished and tweaking my P8P67 Rev3.1 build.
> 
> Thanks


Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you right away !


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13790587*
> If you want lesser Vdrop, you use a higher LLC. So LLC 50% would be better then LLC 0% in this case. Most of us use LLC at Ultra hight to get lesser Vdrop.


More info that I should have added, and may change your decision:
OC1 - 4.6GHz, Offset +0.095V, Normal LLC(0%), 12h+ P95 Blend, has frequent Vcore spike to 1.37V-1.4V while idle
OC2 - 4.6GHz, Offset +0.030V, High LLC(50%), 12h+ P95 Blend
Both have about the same average temp(~65*C) and Vcore(~1.34V) under load. If you need more info let me know. And im asking this because i thought LLC will reduce the life of the chip more than no LLC.


----------



## Sabot

Why did you pick this Asus board over others? I am on the fence between this and the ASRock Z68 Extreme4.

I am very interested in your opinion.


----------



## RAFFY

Hey i have the P8P67-M Pro since launch just had ASUS send me my B3 revision. I disabled the marvel controller but i cant remember the other thing i need to disable to get the CPU Fan Error on boot up to go away. Can someone please tell me what i need to disable


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY;13792312*
> Hey i have the P8P67-M Pro since launch just had ASUS send me my B3 revision. I disabled the marvel controller but i cant remember the other thing i need to disable to get the CPU Fan Error on boot up to go away. Can someone please tell me what i need to disable


go to thermal and volt readings and switch cpu fan reading to ignored.


----------



## cba1986

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13792701*
> go to thermal and volt readings and switch cpu fan reading to ignored.


Thermal and volting reading doesn't prevent a cooked chip?


----------



## mr. biggums

well gents consider me in just bit the bullet and picked up a p8z68-v pro to go along with my 2600k hopefully have it up and running tomorrow(to tired to pull apart current rig for the power supply and video card's)


----------



## Yvese

Can I join the club? Just set up my new 2600k build today and it's running fantastic. Will do some OCing tomorrow


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums;13793679*
> well gents consider me in just bit the bullet and picked up a p8z68-v pro to go along with my 2600k hopefully have it up and running tomorrow(to tired to pull apart current rig for the power supply and video card's)


Welcome to the Club!








I'll add you in a moment








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese;13794381*
> Can I join the club? Just set up my new 2600k build today and it's running fantastic. Will do some OCing tomorrow


Welcome to you too !







Add you right away !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sabot;13791916*
> Why did you pick this Asus board over others? I am on the fence between this and the ASRock Z68 Extreme4.
> 
> I am very interested in your opinion.


This is not the place to come asking why you should pick ASUS over other brands, this is the place to come join when you have a ASUS board









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13791498*
> More info that I should have added, and may change your decision:
> OC1 - 4.6GHz, Offset +0.095V, Normal LLC(0%), 12h+ P95 Blend, has frequent Vcore spike to 1.37V-1.4V while idle
> OC2 - 4.6GHz, Offset +0.030V, High LLC(0%), 12h+ P95 Blend
> Both have about the same average temp(~65*C) and Vcore(~1.34V) under load. If you need more info let me know. And im asking this because i thought LLC will reduce the life of the chip more than no LLC.


I don't understand... Both you're overclocks are 4.6GHz and both use LLC 0%, but are using different Offset, and you are getting the same Load Vcore on both??


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sabot;13791916*
> Why did you pick this Asus board over others? I am on the fence between this and the ASRock Z68 Extreme4.
> 
> I am very interested in your opinion.


Nice bios, got the features that I need for cheap...and nice mobo color:laugher:


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sabot;13791916*
> Why did you pick this Asus board over others? I am on the fence between this and the ASRock Z68 Extreme4.
> 
> I am very interested in your opinion.



UEFI
Nice design
Nice layout
Good reputation in overclocking
Loads of VRMs
Good looks
MEMOK+ button
No fancy LED's (covered up the ON LED)
Intel NIC
USB 3.0


----------



## Nethermir

I think I got mine stable at +0.065 offset with LLC at regular. I made a blunder though, I tried going to 4.7, set my LLC ultra high and ran P95 small FFT and left it. When I came back, I saw my cpu roasting at 85C!!


----------



## turrican9

Updated links for the ASUS P8P67 Vanilla and PRO in first post. Now it will show - ASUS P8P67 Vanilla Home/REV 3.1 Home. Same for the PRO. 'REV 3.1 Home' links directly to the REV 3.1 Hompage.

Only the Vanilla and Pro have been released in 3.1 flavors for now. REV 3.1 use other bios VS the common REV 3.0.

btw: ftp links are still the same for REV 3.0/3.1. Bios file for REV 3.1 has 3.1 in it's file name.


----------



## Butter on Toast

I can has join?
Getting my sabertooth tomorrow.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Butter on Toast;13796954*
> I can has join?
> Getting my sabertooth tomorrow.


Welcome to the Club !









I'll add you to the members list


----------



## Butter on Toast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13796977*
> Welcome to the Club !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll add you to the members list


I'll update my siggy








Thanks turrican


----------



## awf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13796726*
> Updated links for the ASUS P8P67 Vanilla and PRO in first post. Now it will show - ASUS P8P67 Vanilla Home/REV 3.1 Home. Same for the PRO. 'REV 3.1 Home' links directly to the REV 3.1 Hompage.
> 
> Only the Vanilla and Pro have been released in 3.1 flavors for now. REV 3.1 use other bios VS the common REV 3.0.
> 
> btw: ftp links are still the same for REV 3.0/3.1. Bios file for REV 3.1 has 3.1 in it's file name.


Thanks


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Did anybody have problems installing the OS??? I am using a asus p9p67 pro. Whenever I try to boot it and install I get this message ""Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key". In the bios both my ssd and optical are showing. dvd drive is first. Why do i get this problem?? I can her it run and you get a green light but nothing. I ran the disk on another machine and it showed it. I also used a external dvd and it noticed it and everything but same problem "Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key.
"

Any ideas. Thanks guys.

Posted this in another thread but incase you missed any inputs?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage*


Did anybody have problems installing the OS??? I am using a asus p9p67 pro. Whenever I try to boot it and install I get this message ""Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key". In the bios both my ssd and optical are showing. dvd drive is first. Why do i get this problem?? I can her it run and you get a green light but nothing. I ran the disk on another machine and it showed it. I also used a external dvd and it noticed it and everything but same problem "Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key.
"

Any ideas. Thanks guys.

Posted this in another thread but incase you missed any inputs?


I had this problem when installing Win7 on my SSD. SSD was connected to white 6GB Sata. I had to move it to one of the light blue to remedy the problem. Then moved it back to the white connector after install, and all was okay.

This on a ASUS P8P67 PRO.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

What about the settings in bios? Thanks i gotta try that


----------



## wermad

My WS Revo just shipped from the egg, hope to get it by this weekend


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I don't understand... Both you're overclocks are 4.6GHz and both use LLC 0%, but are using different Offset, and you are getting the same Load Vcore on both??


Sorry, i made a typo. It should have been 50% on high LLC. 
The load voltage with Normal LLC(0%) is ~1.335V, and the average core temp is ~63*C. 
The load voltage with High LLC(0%) is ~1.335V, and the average core temp is ~63*C. 
The ambient temp when i tested the two OCs was ~20*C. 
I read over at AnandTech that using no LLC is better. The article is a little dated and may not apply to Sandy Bridge though. Also, do you know if it's safe to touch VCCSA voltage? This is what made me leave it on auto:
Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


*VCCSA:* More commonly known as System Agent Voltage. Intel's maximum System Agent Voltage (Vccsa) is 0.971v and minimum is 0.879v. Stock is 0.925v. System Agent Voltage should NOT be touched, it is supposed to be a fixed voltage, and it powers many things that the VCC does not power. One of the most important is the Power Control Unit (PCU) which controls internal power allocation of the processor. This voltage is to be generated by a separate VRM than used for SVID. So on the P67A-UD7 this voltage is generated by a two phase buck analogue PWM, with 4 phases, this voltage and the VTT (Vccio) come from the same VRM(not surprisingly voltage read points are right next to each other as well).


As a side note, my computer is taking forever to boot because the ASUS logo doesnt go away for 30secs. This just happened today when i got back from school, and occurred the 3 times i booted my computer. Do you know how to fix this?


----------



## Nethermir

^ disable the logo?


----------



## mr. biggums

Well she's up and running 4.8 with 1.4V this was just a basic go with a similar setup as grunion at the beginning of this thread, with the exception of my offset being .050 and pll at 1.8

Introducing the bench:









and the picture that makes me giddy


----------



## turrican9

*mr. biggums*

Link (System Pictures) posted behind your nick in the members list, pointing to this post







Nice system


----------



## Alex132

Finally got my sound card to work, I missed it so much


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Finally got my sound card to work, I missed it so much










I'm going to have to loose mine, because I'm going GTX480 Sli next week








And won't be able to get to the pci slot


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


I'm going to have to loose mine, because I'm going GTX480 Sli next week








And won't be able to get to the pci slot




















http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post13796204


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13810371*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1036925-will-fit-my-motherboard.html#post13796204


Thanks buddy








But surely the on-board isn't so bad, is it









I was thinking of getting a PCI-e 1 card


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13810500*
> Thanks buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But surely the on-board isn't so bad, is it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of getting a PCI-e 1 card


On-board Audio is just fine


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13810511*
> On-board Audio is just fine


Sweet


----------



## munaim1

miss my mobo. sent it off a couple days ago


----------



## turrican9

*munaim1*


----------



## retro41

Heard there was beer?

P67 pro arrived today!!


----------



## Nethermir

@munaim1 it went to the great electronic heaven up above









@mcandrew


----------



## Shane1244

Vanilla arrived today, still don't have my CPU.

I know nothing about overclocking on Sandybrdige.. I'm shooting for 5Ghz, so aside from the multiplier/core voltage, what else will I have to change?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcandrew*


Heard there was beer?

P67 pro arrived today!!


Yeah!







You should join the Club !


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Yeah!







You should join the Club !










How many members does the club have now, mate


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


How many members does the club have now, mate










71 ELITE members mate


----------



## ACHILEE5

Sweet!
Just gathering stats









My Pro has been sweet








I was playing Dirt3 underclocked to 3.4GHz earlier, and it was still 60fps smooth








And Dirt "1" is smooth at 3.4GHz, but needed 4GHz from my Q9650 in multi car races









I've been turning off Turbo with Realtemp


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13813805*
> Sweet!
> Just gathering stats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Pro has been sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was playing Dirt3 underclocked to 3.4GHz earlier, and it was still 60fps smooth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Dirt "1" is smooth at 3.4GHz, but needed 4GHz from my Q9650 in multi car races
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been turning off Turbo with Realtemp


Sandybridge is totally sick man


----------



## tubers

Nice thread









Can I join as a regular member? Owner of a Z68 V PRO..

Looking for an easy way to OC.. and an easier way to revert back to default BIOS/UEFI settings w/o using the mobo jumper









Need recommendations please


----------



## mr. biggums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13814152*
> Nice thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join as a regular member? Owner of a Z68 V PRO..
> 
> Looking for an easy way to OC.. and an easier way to revert back to default BIOS/UEFI settings w/o using the mobo jumper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need recommendations please


i found it doesn't auto reset itself, if i do stumble on something though i will let you no


----------



## tubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. biggums;13814421*
> i found it doesn't auto reset itself, if i do stumble on something though i will let you no


Aw too bad..

Guess Im gonna try manual..

Just gonna start racing the multiplier w/o changing anything else..

Hope it doesn't BSOD


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13814152*
> Nice thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join as a regular member? Owner of a Z68 V PRO..
> 
> Looking for an easy way to OC.. and an easier way to revert back to default BIOS/UEFI settings w/o using the mobo jumper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need recommendations please


Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you right away


----------



## nawon72

I don't think you saw this turrican9, so ill give it a little bump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13802888*
> Sorry, i made a typo. It should have been 50% on high LLC.
> The load voltage with Normal LLC(0%) is ~1.335V, and the average core temp is ~63*C.
> The load voltage with High LLC(0%) is ~1.335V, and the average core temp is ~63*C.
> The ambient temp when i tested the two OCs was ~20*C.
> I read over at AnandTech that using no LLC is better. The article is a little dated and may not apply to Sandy Bridge though. Also, do you know if it's safe to touch VCCSA voltage? This is what made me leave it on auto:
> 
> As a side note, my computer is taking forever to boot because the ASUS logo doesnt go away for 30secs. This just happened today when i got back from school, and occurred the 3 times i booted my computer. Do you know how to fix this?


BTW, the boot problem fixed itself somehow.


----------



## RomeoOG

There's a new update new Bio Version 1606 and they didn't do nothing about the double post, it still turn off and on when turn on from a cold start.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Still got problems changed the wires around did the f8 boot way the Haf_wit said. any more input on this .

Did anybody have problems installing the OS??? I am using a asus p9p67 pro. Whenever I try to boot it and install I get this message ""Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key". In the bios both my ssd and optical are showing. dvd drive is first. Why do i get this problem?? I can her it run and you get a green light but nothing. I ran the disk on another machine and it showed it. I also used a external dvd and it noticed it and everything but same problem "Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key.
"

Any ideas. Thanks guys.

would love to join but once I get it setup the I would like to be added.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13814152*
> Nice thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join as a regular member? Owner of a Z68 V PRO..
> 
> Looking for an easy way to OC.. *and an easier way to revert back to default* BIOS/UEFI settings w/o using the mobo jumper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need recommendations please


*You can turn Turbo "on and off" with Realtemp*









I run at 4.3GHz as an overclock. And when I turn off Turbo in Realtemp, I'm at 3.4GHz









Turbo on

















Turbo off


----------



## cba1986

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13816122*
> *You can turn Turbo "on and off" with Realtemp*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I run at 4.3GHz as an overclock. And when I turn off Turbo in Realtemp, I'm at 3.4GHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turbo on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turbo off


Do you use offset?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cba1986;13816693*
> Do you use offset?


Yes, but full auto overclocked








Just clicked the button on the right








Then re-booted and went back in the bios and put the bclk back to 100. And set my Ram to 1600MHz

Auto at 4.3GHz, gives me nice volts! And is rock solid stable


----------



## Wabbit16

Oh goody, my P8P67-M Pro is cooked


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13816122*
> *You can turn Turbo "on and off" with Realtemp*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I run at 4.3GHz as an overclock. And when I turn off Turbo in Realtemp, I'm at 3.4GHz


I noticed you were using an outdated RealTemp. The latest version has better support for Sandy Bridge CPUs and can be found here.


----------



## tubers

Guys, I set my multi to *x43*..

It's giving my CPU *1.344~ Voltage* when on load..

How do I *decrease voltages* with the board's "automatic voltage bump" when in x43 multi?

The motherboard automatically bumps that voltage when on load.. BUT, I want to try a lower voltage bump but *keep the automatic voltage bump feature*... I want to try a 1.300 Voltage only

Is this where the *offset* option comes in? Some member here in OCN said I should - the offset if I want to keep the automatic voltage bumps and automatic downvoltages.

(Did I even make sense?)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Yes, but full auto overclocked








Just clicked the button on the right








Then re-booted and went back in the bios and put the bclk back to 100. And set my Ram to 1600MHz

Auto at 4.3GHz, gives me nice volts! And is rock solid stable



















I will try this and see where it brings my mediocre 2500K


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I will try this and see where it brings my mediocre 2500K










My guess is it will give you a 42x multi and 103 bclk = 4.326GHz
And if you go back in the bios and put the bclk back to 100, then bump the multi up one to 43 and save and exit "you should have a nice auto overclock with all power saving working








As you say, has to be worth a look









I'm at 3.4GHz still. Underclocking rules


----------



## Alex132

It gave me 4.8Ghz with 1.48v IIRC
I am almost .08v lower







don't trust it









*ACHILEE5*, you should try those volts and multi manually set. Then slowly lower the Vcore and see if you can get it stable with lower vcore. Or higher multi


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13820689*
> It gave me 4.8Ghz with 1.48v IIRC
> I am almost .08v lower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> don't trust it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ACHILEE5*, you should try those volts and multi manually set. Then slowly lower the Vcore and see if you can get it stable with lower vcore. Or higher multi


Hello mate, yeah I could but my volts at 4.3GHz are only 1.28v so meh








And less than 1v at idle


----------



## Alex132

For some reason my CPU does not undervolt/down-clock when Idling.

I am using Offset (same with manual) C1E/C3/C6 are enabled (well I think they're on auto) and speedstep is on.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


My guess is it will give you a 42x multi and 103 bclk = 4.326GHz
And if you go back in the bios and put the bclk back to 100, then bump the multi up one to 43 and save and exit "you should have a nice auto overclock with all power saving working








As you say, has to be worth a look









I'm at 3.4GHz still. Underclocking rules










When I first got my board I think I got 4.326GHz, like you say here, when hitting that button.

Also, when using that Auto overclocking feature in AI Suite II, using the fast version, will give about this speed if I remember correctly.

Anyway, I think I have a pretty optimal 4.5GHz setup for my CPU as it is. All power features enabled, and using Offset Vcore. ~1.368v under load and below 1v when idle.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13820733*
> For some reason my CPU does not undervolt/down-clock when Idling.
> 
> I am using Offset (same with manual) C1E/C3/C6 are enabled (well I think they're on auto) and speedstep is on.


I think when I hit that Fast Button, it sets it up allowing for power saving









I mean, do we need to go as fast as we are








As i said before, 3.4GHz is like 4GHz+ on a Q9650









I have monitored my volts in AIDA64, and don't get any spikes so it suits me









It's not hard core overclocking, but my CPU should last longer than some on here









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13820779*
> When I first got my board I think I got 4.326GHz, like you say here, when hitting that button.
> 
> Also, when using that Auto overclocking feature in AI Suite II, using the fast version, will give about this speed if I remember correctly.
> 
> Anyway, I think I have a pretty optimal 4.5GHz setup for my CPU as it is. All power features enabled, and using Offset Vcore. ~1.368v under load and below 1v when idle.


1.36v ain't so bad








And the option is always there, if you decide you don't need to go so fast


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13820710*
> Hello mate, yeah I could but my volts at 4.3GHz are only 1.28v so meh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And less than 1v at idle


Mine is similar

My latest setting is (Manual)42x100. I didn't touch the volts and with turbo enabled and a 60% load my volts are 1.312 highest. At idle I get .992volts

I can up it to 44x100 and the volt range remains the same...power features enabled


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tubers*


Guys, I set my multi to* x43*..

It's giving my CPU *1.344~ Voltage* when on load..

How do I *decrease voltages* with the board's "automatic voltage bump" when in x43 multi?

The motherboard automatically bumps that voltage when on load.. BUT, I want to try a lower voltage bump but *keep the automatic voltage bump feature*... I want to try a 1.300 Voltage only

Is this where the *offset* option comes in? Some member here in OCN said I should - the offset if I want to keep the automatic voltage bumps and automatic downvoltages.

(Did I even make sense?)


It's either you set the voltage manually or use low offset. Do you just have everything set to automatic?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennyb*


Mine is similar

My latest setting is (Manual)42x100. I didn't touch the volts and with turbo enabled and a 60% load my volts are 1.312 highest. At idle I get .992volts

I can up it to 44x100 and the volt range remains the same...power features enabled


Yeah, we could go faster! But, Is it a good idea to go "Flat out" all the time









I was playing an older game the other day, and my LCD said I had gone down to 1.6GHz


----------



## Alex132

I fold 24/7 so I leave mine on 4.8Ghz


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13820874*
> Yeah, we could go faster! But, Is it a good idea to go "Flat out" all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was playing an older game the other day, and my LCD said I had gone down to 1.6GHz


I register 1.6GHz 95% of the time............and since finding Real temp turbo feature .....I rarely enable turbo. This rig is waaaay more than enough for me without an extreme overclock. Ooops blasphemy


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennyb*


I register 1.6GHz 95% of the time............and since finding Real temp turbo feature .....I rarely enable turbo. This rig is waaaay more than enough for me without an extreme overclock. Ooops blasphemy










And this, from someone that had the second best overclocked c2q in the World on air iirc


----------



## turrican9

New poll guys

How fast do you run you're Sandy 2500K/2600K for 24/7?


----------



## dennyb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


And this, from someone that had the second best overclocked c2q in the World on air iirc










Actually it wasn't quite that fast. At the time it was 8th fastest on air and 21st fastest overall............but those speeds are most likely not relevant anymore


----------



## munaim1

Wow I can't believe it, sent my mobo out for collection on Tuesday, called asus asked how long this swap process will take and they said 7-10 working days









But guess what got delivered just now??? MY NEW B3 MOBO and took only 3 days in total!!!!!


----------



## Alex132

Nice








Gotta love that new hardware smell


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


MY NEW B3 MOBO and took only 3 days in total!!!!!

























They read your post saying how you were missing it


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


They read your post saying how you were missing it










that could be it









It was messed up cause the day they collected it was the day I got my f3's, didnt have a chance to test them out. Once I get the mobo back in and raid 0 all three of them I'll be happy







be on the look out in the HDD section, i'll post some results


----------



## turrican9

*munaim1*

Congrats !







Be sure to tell us how your new B3 revision works out for you


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*munaim1*

Congrats !







Be sure to tell us how your new B3 revision works out for you










yep definitely







I'm assembling it now. I can finally stop using this crappy laptop that takes 5 mins or so to load to windows









EDIT: Can't believe it only took 3 days


----------



## HOTDOGS




----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*




























No Intel NIC, I wonder if it makes a difference. I might think so as Intel's NICs are rather damn good.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


No Intel NIC, I wonder if it makes a difference. I might think so as Intel's NICs are rather damn good.


Intel NIC?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13823655*
> Intel NIC?


Onboard network controller, its Marvell not Intel. Apparently the Intel one is better, (P8P67 PRO and above)


----------



## turrican9

*HOTDOGS*

Do you have some pictures showing all of your case with the mobo and the rest installed?







If so I will post a link behind your nick in the members list


----------



## retro41

Damn, think I'm going to have to wait to get my system running, case fans are molex... part from my sharkoon golf


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13824068*
> *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Do you have some pictures showing all of your case with the mobo and the rest installed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If so I will post a link behind your nick in the members list


Yes, checkout the buildlog in my sig, I posted all the pictures on page 4. I will take some nicer ones eventually too.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcandrew;13824363*
> Damn, think I'm going to have to wait to get my system running, case fans are molex... part from my sharkoon golf


I can't seem to find you on the members list? I noticed you're wearing the signature. What motherboard do you have?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13824443*
> Yes, checkout the buildlog in my sig, I posted all the pictures on page 4. I will take some nicer ones eventually too.


I'll post the link behind your nick


----------



## munaim1

hey turrican I got my mobo up and running, everything is back to how it was









Now I just finished installing the 3 f3s I got in raid 0 and will be posting results soon, also I thought I 'd post a comparison between IC diamond 7 and Shin Etsu X23-7762.

Be on the look out for those threads


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13824661*
> hey turrican I got my mobo up and running, everything is back to how it was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just finished installing the 3 f3s I got in raid 0 and will be posting results soon, also I thought I 'd post a comparison between IC diamond 7 and Shin Etsu X23-7762.
> 
> Be on the look out for those threads


Nice man !









Be sure to point us to those threads


----------



## retro41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13824450*
> I can't seem to find you on the members list? I noticed you're wearing the signature. What motherboard do you have?


Have the Pro
Took a pic but Picasa doesn't want to upload from my phone

my post previously


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcandrew;13824762*
> Have the Pro
> Took a pic but Picasa doesn't want to upload from my phone
> 
> my post previously


ahh...







You didn't state you wanted to be a member







I'll add you now mate







Welcome to the Club


----------



## tubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13820853*
> It's either you set the voltage manually or use low offset. Do you just have everything set to automatic?


IDK.. I guess so... *I never touched any other setting other than the multi*.

Was happy that the board adjusted the core voltage itself so I didn't crash when playing games.. but it was pumping *1.344 V* and even *1.36 V* when playing games.. seems a little high


----------



## turrican9

This info is also posted in this Clubs first post...
Quote:


> *Please leave your votes in these two threads. They will close 30th of June
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How fast do you run you're Sandy 2500K/2600K for 24/7 use?
> 
> Did you get the Sandybridge 2500K or 2600K?*


----------



## retro41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13824771*
> ahh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You didn't state you wanted to be a member
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll add you now mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the Club


My bad! Should've made it more obvious









Cheers, my psu has molex connectors so there may be hope tonight!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13819861*
> Guys, I set my multi to *x43*..
> 
> It's giving my CPU *1.344~ Voltage* when on load..
> 
> How do I *decrease voltages* with the board's "automatic voltage bump" when in x43 multi?
> 
> The motherboard automatically bumps that voltage when on load.. BUT, I want to try a lower voltage bump but *keep the automatic voltage bump feature*... I want to try a 1.300 Voltage only
> 
> Is this where the *offset* option comes in? Some member here in OCN said I should - the offset if I want to keep the automatic voltage bumps and automatic downvoltages.
> 
> (Did I even make sense?)


Use offset instead of manual, and set it to +0.005V. You should be able to use a higher multi than 43 with that voltage though.


----------



## turrican9

I have some plans about letting this Club continue it's course, but starting a 'sister Club', Exclusive for the P8P67 PRO owners.


----------



## tubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13826872*
> Use offset instead of manual, and set it to *+*0.005V. You should be able to use a higher multi than 43 with that voltage though.


*+* or *-* ?

I don't get it really tho.. wouldn't the *+* *increase the voltage automatically* given by the motherboard when I provide *higher than stock Turbo Multipliers*?

if I use *+0.005V*.. then wouldn't that be pumping *+0.005V more* than the 1.344 V the board is automatically giving to my *4.3Ghz OC*?

Or am I understanding it all wrong xD Sorry.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13837423*
> *+* or *-* ?
> 
> I don't get it really tho.. wouldn't the *+* *increase the voltage automatically* given by the motherboard when I provide *higher than stock Turbo Multipliers*?
> 
> if I use *+0.005V*.. then wouldn't that be pumping *+0.005V more* than the 1.344 V the board is automatically giving to my *4.3Ghz OC*?
> 
> Or am I understanding it all wrong xD Sorry.


I'll try to help you when I get sober man


----------



## 4x4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13837423*
> *+* or *-* ?
> 
> I don't get it really tho.. wouldn't the *+* *increase the voltage automatically* given by the motherboard when I provide *higher than stock Turbo Multipliers*?
> 
> if I use *+0.005V*.. then wouldn't that be pumping *+0.005V more* than the 1.344 V the board is automatically giving to my *4.3Ghz OC*?
> 
> Or am I understanding it all wrong xD Sorry.


Yes, you need to use the - offset if you want lower voltage.

Here is a bios shot for you.


----------



## dennyb

The posts above have gotten me interested in trying the offset mode....so I am presently Prime Blending @ 4200,using +0.02v and things are fine so far. I am going to let it complete 20 minutes at that setting and the raise the speed to 4300 and see if it will hold up

Cpuz shows 1.288/1.296v under load


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13838179*
> The posts above have gotten me interested in trying the offset mode....so I am presently Prime Blending @ 4200,using +0.02v and things are fine so far. I am going to let it complete 20 minutes at that setting and the raise the speed to 4300 and see if it will hold up


Mine and others findings about Offset Vcore VS Manual Vcore is that it does not fluctuate as much as when setting it manual. At least in our P8P67 boards...


----------



## dennyb

The 4300 speed at the same settings went well. Just upped it to 4400 ..same settings. Going to see if it can operate at that speed with +0.02v.

Anyone have a good estimate of how fast I should expect to clock it with a +0.02 offset?

edit: Cpuz still @ 1.296v load and the wife is streaming a bluray movie from my rig to the flatscreen...I don't know if that adds much to the load or not

edit again: 4500 @1.296v CPUZ and still offset +0.02. I'm thinking this is a pretty good chip

Oops I spoke too soon ...it crashed @ the 4500 setting


----------



## tubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13837552*
> I'll try to help you when I get sober man


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4x4n;13837872*
> Yes, you need to use the - offset if you want lower voltage.
> 
> Here is a bios shot for you.


Thanks for the SS







Might try that some later tonight.. gonna try a 4.6 Mhz w/o doing anything else yet except upping the *multi to 46*







And maybe *go from there*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;13838179*
> The posts above have gotten me interested in trying the offset mode....so I am presently Prime Blending @ 4200,using +0.02v and things are fine so far. I am going to let it complete 20 minutes at that setting and the raise the speed to 4300 and see if it will hold up
> 
> Cpuz shows 1.288/1.296v under load


Sounds awesome! compared to my 1.344 V on gaming load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13838198*
> Mine and others findings about Offset Vcore VS Manual Vcore is that it does not fluctuate as much as when setting it manual. At least in our P8P67 boards...


Nice







"auto" ftw xD

Oh yeah +rep respectively.


----------



## wermad

I'm loving the modern bios. Still have yet to oc but will be doing so as soon as my cpu and gpu blocks arrive.


----------



## awf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Use offset instead of manual, and set it to +0.005V. You should be able to use a higher multi than 43 with that voltage though.


Well or just use an offset off* - *0.010v with some manual settings


----------



## pioneerisloud

Count me in!

P8P67 PRO B3 here. Running at 105.35 x 44 right now for 4.64GHz.









I do have one issue though....
It keeps telling me that my CPU Fan is missing on every bootup, and I think that's one slow down on my boot up time. If anybody knows where to disable that warning, that would be sweet. Otherwise, I have nothing at all to complain about on this board.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Count me in!

P8P67 PRO B3 here. Running at 105.35 x 44 right now for 4.64GHz.









I do have one issue though....
It keeps telling me that my CPU Fan is missing on every bootup, and I think that's one slow down on my boot up time. If anybody knows where to disable that warning, that would be sweet. Otherwise, I have nothing at all to complain about on this board.










cpu fan speed monitoring? set it to ignore.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Count me in!

P8P67 PRO B3 here. Running at 105.35 x 44 right now for 4.64GHz.









I do have one issue though....
It keeps telling me that my CPU Fan is missing on every bootup, and I think that's one slow down on my boot up time. If anybody knows where to disable that warning, that would be sweet. Otherwise, I have nothing at all to complain about on this board.










Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you in a moment !









Since you have the PRO, I would recommend the first sig














*The Official ASUS 1155/P8P67 PRO Owners Club*









Try and decrease the CPU Fan Speed Low Limit. You also have the possibility to ignore the CPU Fan Speed RPM.


----------



## Alex132

Does anyone else have their motherboard uses the Marvell controller, says "No HDD detected" then reboots (~5 seconds) and uses the Intel controller, and detects my HDD.

Anyway to stop this?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Does anyone else have their motherboard uses the Marvell controller, says "No HDD detected" then reboots (~5 seconds) and uses the Intel controller, and detects my HDD.

Anyway to stop this?


I think the only way to stop it is to Disable the Marvell controller. And if you don't use it, just disable it. I have disabled both the Marvell and JMicron controllers.


----------



## Alex132

Whats the JMicron controller?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Whats the JMicron controller?


JMicron is the E-sata ports on the I/O panel.


----------



## turrican9

Here you have the options to disable them, or one of them.


----------



## Alex132

Yeah just did that, now it boots up a lot faster


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thealex132*


Yeah just did that, now it boots up a lot faster










Nice


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I'm loving the modern bios. Still have yet to oc but will be doing so as soon as my cpu and gpu blocks arrive.


Nice board







Wanna join the Club?

I Know *ACHILEE5* is interested in one of these


----------



## turrican9

Info on how to resolve the JMicron/Marvell and CPU Fan Error issues are now posted at the bottom of the first post in this Club.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Nice board







Wanna join the Club?

I Know *ACHILEE5* is interested in one of these


Yes


----------



## Maximus86

Just built mine with a P8P67 vanilla, 2500k.
Runnig 4.5ghz 1.3v 
Only thing wrong is I cant see the bios screen fully becuase my monitor is to small.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Yes










Welcome mate !







If you post pictures of your finished rig, I will post a link to the post, behind your nick in the members list









Also, for signature I would suggest this one for you and your board
















*The Official ASUS 1155/ELITE Owners Club*


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximus86*


Just built mine with a P8P67 vanilla, 2500k.
Runnig 4.5ghz 1.3v 
Only thing wrong is I cant see the bios screen fully becuase my monitor is to small.


Congrats







You are welcome to join the Club if you want to mate


----------



## turrican9

I see the Asus P67 Series Information Thread (drivers, BIOSes, overclocking, reviews) are listing a 1702 bios for the motherboards listed here. They are not to be found on ASUS servers yet, appart from the P8P67 Deluxe version. So personally I will wait. PRO download link was also down. Edit: Seems like ASUS has deleted the 1702 bios from their servers, appart from the Deluxe one.
Quote:


> 6/7:
> 
> Added BIOS 1702 for P8P67.
> Added BIOS 1702 for P8P67 Pro.
> Added BIOS 1702 for P8P67 Deluxe.
> Added BIOS 1702 for Sabertooth.


Quote:


> 1702 changelog:
> 
> - 2.2TB or larger HDD can be supported under RAID mode. (Need to install IRST 10.5 version driver first)


----------



## Thogar

Well this sucks lol.
I got a 6950 today, which i had a 8800gts in my rig previously.
so i uninstalled all the nvidia software, then used driver sweeper to annihilate it for sure.
Restarted, installed the 6950, and the drivers, then restarted again.
It worked but when i ran any game, all of the sudden it froze for 10 seconds(blank screen more like), then Windows 7 said "the driver has stopped working" and has restarted or something(funny thing is, i had been seeing this with my 8800gts recently so it could be something else).
After that i tried uninstalling and sweeping the ati software/drivers, and reinstalled it all.
Rebooted and did the same thing, so i figured, eh why not update to 1606... Now after updating to 1606, i BSOD before i can even login.
Is there a driver i need to uninstall then reinstall because of the new bios?
I don't even know where to start







, i'm in safe mode right now

EDIT: Hah, forgot the internal bluetooth was enabled due to settings reset, disabled it so it didn't conflict with motionjoy drivers, no more BSOD.
However i still have the "driver stopped working" issue, but i think i know what software it might be...


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Hey so quick up date, my system is finallly running WOOOH.

I will post pictures later.

I am going to overclock it to 4.0ghz but what cpu voltage should I start out with. Some people say 1.120v or some got it at 1.17 or 1.20??? I have read tutorial but I guess I missed that part.

Also Should I leave the speedstepping on so it will go to a lower clock on idle? If I want to keep it at 4.0ghz all the time what do I change.

Also I am right when it goes up to 3.7 on speedstepping im getting 40c is that ok?
Thanks.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13848702*
> Hey so quick up date, my system is finallly running WOOOH.
> 
> I will post pictures later.
> 
> I am going to overclock it to 4.0ghz but what cpu voltage should I start out with. Some people say 1.120v or some got it at 1.17 or 1.20??? I have read tutorial but I guess I missed that part.
> 
> Also Should I leave the speedstepping on so it will go to a lower clock on idle? If I want to keep it at 4.0ghz all the time what do I change.
> 
> Also I am right when it goes up to 3.7 on speedstepping im getting 40c is that ok?
> Thanks.


As you're going for such a low OC, I'd just go auto


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Confused people.

I left all settings to stock and change the multi to 40. I boot up and I left speedstepping on so it goes from 1.6 to 3.7 ONLY. what?????any help. Thanks.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13849201*
> Confused people.
> 
> I left all settings to stock and change the multi to 40. I boot up and I left speedstepping on so it goes from 1.6 to 3.7 ONLY. what?????any help. Thanks.


Why don't you just push the big button with the fire on








And then, re-boot back into the bios and set the bclk back down to 100, and lower the multi to what you want


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Well I forgot to change the interal pll to enable. Now it moves from 1.6 to 4.0, but when its 4.0 its like 1.304v. How can I keep it all the time 4.0. and what voltage should I start with If I want to manually set vcore


----------



## giecsar

Hey guys, I just placed an order for the P8P67 Deluxe, can I join?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage*


Well I forgot to change the interal pll to enable. Now it moves from 1.6 to 4.0, but when its 4.0 its like 1.304v. How can I keep it all the time 4.0. and what voltage should I start with If I want to manually set vcore


There is almost no benifit of locking the multi at 40x. Your going to get the same performance. And i would recommend using offset instead of manual, especially at a low OC. For a 40x multi, stock voltage should be fine.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

LOL another problem, I made a thread but just in case you missed it.

-- Can someone please explain to me WTH. read my specs in my sig and tell me what TO DO. 
My cpu should be 4.0 at load? it shows 1.6, and all the other stuff like im so confused.
Thanks.


----------



## Nethermir

your cpu goes down to 1.6 ghz when it is not doing any extensive tasks. try to run p95 and you will that ramp up to 4.0


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Yeah I know that but whats up with the test?? is there like a setting I need to change, I feel from that test I am not getting my full performance or is the test screwed up???


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *giecsar*


Hey guys, I just placed an order for the P8P67 Deluxe, can I join?










Welcome to the Club mate !







Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new rig !


----------



## giecsar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Welcome to the Club mate !







Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new rig !










Awesome! I will be detailing it here: http://www.overclock.net/intel-gener...dream-rig.html


----------



## turrican9

*DeadlyRampage*

Hello sir







I can't seem to find you on the members list?


----------



## turrican9

Here are the motherboards that belongs to the ASUS P8P67 series: P8P67 M, M-PRO, LE, Vanilla, PRO, EVO, Deluxe and WS Revolution..
This Club has 76 members until date, and only 9 of those are not of the P8P67 series. And as far as I know, only one of these persons is somewhat active in here.

As for the Maximus Extreme and Sabertooth, they have dedicated clubs.

I feel this is still the P8P67 PRO/Series Club as it looks now.


----------



## mr. biggums

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Here are the motherboards that belongs to the ASUS P8P67 series: P8P67 M, M-PRO, LE, Vanilla, PRO, EVO, Deluxe and WS Revolution..
This Club has 76 members until date, and only 9 of those are not of the P8P67 series. And as far as I know, only one of these persons is somewhat active in here.

As for the Maximus Extreme and Sabertooth, they have dedicated clubs.

I feel this is still the P8P67 PRO/Series Club as it looks now.


i would say its best to just let us z68 owners lurk in here no point in running a separate club when barely anyone owns one, beyond that though boards are pretty much exactly the same, bios settings and all.


----------



## Shoulin

You can add me, forgive image quality was taken on my BB Storm 2.










Also don't mind the cabling, I'm in the process of modding the cables for single wire sleeves.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shoulin*


You can add me, forgive image quality was taken on my BB Storm 2.

Also don't mind the cabling, I'm in the process of modding the cables for single wire sleeves.


Welcome to the Club mate !







I'll add you in a moment !


----------



## tembok_besi

hi. i have Asus P8z68V. what diferrent p8z68v and p8z68 v pro in terms of performance, design and feature?? Thanks.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tembok_besi*


hi. i have Asus P8z68V. what diferrent p8z68v and p8z68 v pro in terms of performance, design and feature?? Thanks.


----------



## tembok_besi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*




























so in performance is no diferrent but in feature the pro has have much sata3 port.. can i join to this forum??


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tembok_besi*


so in performance is no diferrent but in feature the pro has have much sata3 port.. can i join to this forum??


The performance will be no different. Only a few features. Yes you can join this Club. Welcome







I'll add you in a moment


----------



## tubers

Quick question..

At what point should I be concerned with the automatic core voltages?

Right now, @ 4.5 Ghz, the board's automatically giving the cpu around 1.37~8.. on gaming loads.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tubers*


Quick question..

At what point should I be concerned with the automatic core voltages?

Right now, @ 4.5 Ghz, the board's automatically giving the cpu around 1.37~8.. on gaming loads.


That Vcore is fine, as long as your temps are fine. However, you should set it manul. Either using Offset or typing it in manually. Then you should test with Prime 95 Blend for 12 hours +. If you do it this way, it may be you can lower Vcore considerable.


----------



## tubers

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


That Vcore is fine, as long as your temps are fine. However, you should set it manul. Either using Offset or typing it in manually. Then you should test with Prime 95 Blend for 12 hours +. If you do it this way, it may be you can lower Vcore considerable.


Wouldn't typing it manually disable the auto downvolting when there isn't much load?

With* offset*... I still get auto downvolting right?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tubers*


Wouldn't typing it manually disable the auto downvolting when there isn't much load?

With* offset*... I still get auto downvolting right?


Correct. I would recommend you to use Offset. However, on higher overclocks, like 4.6GHz +, some get BSOD at Idle/Light load when using Offset. If you do get BSOD's at Idle/Light Load and not full Load, I would recommend using manual Vcore.

I use Offset for 4.5GHz. Works perfectly.


----------



## Oblivion77

Hey guys, I JUST built the system in profile. I'm having some problems with my SSD (really bad read and write speeds). I'm not sure what to do at this point, my SSD and HDD are plugged into the gray SATA 6 ports and AHCI is on in the BIOS. Any suggestions?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oblivion77;13853892*
> Hey guys, I JUST built the system in profile. I'm having some problems with my SSD (really bad read and write speeds). I'm not sure what to do at this point, my SSD and HDD are plugged into the gray SATA 6 ports and AHCI is on in the BIOS. Any suggestions?


Have you installed all drivers, including the latest Intel RST drivers?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Where do i get the 1702 bios for my Pro


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13854017*
> Where do i get the 1702 bios for my Pro


Seems like it was deleted from the server.


----------



## Oblivion77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13853966*
> Have you installed all drivers, including the latest Intel RST drivers?


I've installed all the drivers that came on the mobo CD only so far.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13854051*
> Seems like it was deleted from the server.


Thanks bud









Oh well, 1606 will have to do for now


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13854080*
> Thanks bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, 1606 will have to do for now


Sabertooth also had the 1702. Also was suddenly redrawn. Now there is a 1801 bios for the Sabertooth. This indicates that something was wrong with the 1702, and that we can expect 180x bios for our boards soon.

Source: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578865&page=160


----------



## DeadlyRampage

I would love to be added to the club. I will post pictures soon. Anyone have any input on my graphic situation???? check thread 119 or 120.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13856080*
> I would love to be added to the club. I will post pictures soon. Anyone have any input on my graphic situation???? check thread 119 or 120.


Welcome to the Club ASUS P8P67 PRO Owner !


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Thanks man.

Does anything look wrong here, since I am not getting full performance.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13856331*
> Thanks man.
> 
> Does anything look wrong here, since I am not getting full performance.


You got almost 5000 in 3DMark11. That is a little lower VS a GTX 570 stock. Sounds pretty normal to me, since you have a 6950. It should be a little slower VS GTX 570. And about CPU frequency, don't worry if it shows 1.6GHz, it will clock itself up when at load.

As you can see in this review, the HD6950 scores P4900 in 3DMark11. They use a i7 [email protected] But this benchmark is very GPU limited. So you're score are perfectly normal for your setup.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

oh. I guess its good then. whats another good tester thats better in being more correct.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13856871*
> oh. I guess its good then. whats another good tester thats better in being more correct.


What do you want to test?


----------



## DeadlyRampage

I guess I wont update the video card driver then if its good.

Yoo yesterday I overclocked it to 4.0 but when I enabled internal pll overvoltage i would get two cold boots, I remembered reading about this in the first post, so I disabled it and now I am all working. Scary for a little bit. Also In the bios for ther graphics card you can choose, Auto or x4 or x1 If I choose x4 I get two boots aswell. I thought shouldnt that be enabled? but I just left it at auto to be safe.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13856955*
> I guess I wont update the video card driver then if its good.
> 
> Yoo yesterday I overclocked it to 4.0 but when I enabled internal pll overvoltage i would get two cold boots, I remembered reading about this in the first post, so I disabled it and now I am all working. Scary for a little bit. Also In the bios for ther graphics card you can choose, Auto or x4 or x1 If I choose x4 I get two boots aswell. I thought shouldnt that be enabled? but I just left it at auto to be safe.


You can leave Internal PLL Overvoltage disabled for common overclocks. Some need it past 48x multi.

You are referring to the third (black) PCIe lane. Which supports max x4. Just leave it at AUTO, as you will be using one of the upper x16 slots.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Well in the beginning when I did the oc It didnt work then I enable the internal pll overvoltage and then it worked. Now I disabled it and its still at 4.0ghz. weird.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13857005*
> Well in the beginning when I did the oc It didnt work then I enable the internal pll overvoltage and then it worked. Now I disabled it and its still at 4.0ghz. weird.


That was wierd, indeed. You shouldn't need to enable it for those lower multipliers.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Yeah today I am going to try to hit 4.5ghz. Gotta read some tuts on what to do and volts.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13857021*
> That was wierd, indeed. You shouldn't need to enable it for those lower multipliers.


Yeah I don't need it until 48x.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13857046*
> Yeah today I am going to try to hit 4.5ghz. Gotta read some tuts on what to do and volts.


Should do it at 1.3v, nothing else should need an adjustment.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

so just change multi to 45 and change the cpu voltage to manual and make it 1.3v? Thats all you change.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13858830*
> so just change multi to 45 and change the cpu voltage to manual and make it 1.3v? Thats all you change.


Yeah

Honestly I don't need any real tweaking until 48x.
I use high LLC until 48x, I also use offset vs manual vcore.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13858830*
> so just change multi to 45 and change the cpu voltage to manual and make it 1.3v? Thats all you change.


Try and set LLC to Ultra High. Then Try to use Offset Vcore instead of manually typing in Vcore.

Set 45x on all 4 cores. 'Select not adjustable in OS'. Then Try to boot Windows with Auto Vcore/Offset first, to see where you get.

Start Prime 95 Blend and let it run. If you get a BSOD, go back to bios and start upping the Offset. You can begin with typing in 0.02v. Then if you get a BSOD again, increase until your Prime 95 Blend stable.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

thanks I will try this and let you know.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage*


Thanks man.

Does anything look wrong here, since I am not getting full performance.











Whats wrong is that you only have 1408 shaders, when you could have 1536. Please, unlock those shaders! Link.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Try and set LLC to Ultra High. Then Try to use Offset Vcore instead of manually typing in Vcore.

Set 45x on all 4 cores. '*Select not adjustable in OS*'. Then Try to boot Windows with Auto Vcore/Offset first, to see where you get.

Start Prime 95 Blend and let it run. If you get a BSOD, go back to bios and start upping the Offset. You can begin with typing in 0.02v. Then if you get a BSOD again, increase until your Prime 95 Blend stable.


Is there any reason you said to "*Select not adjustable in OS"*? I have been using the "adjustable in OS" without a problem, but i have seen other people use the other option and i'm wondering why.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Correct. I would recommend you to use Offset. However, on higher overclocks, like 4.6GHz +, some get BSOD at Idle/Light load when using Offset. If you do get BSOD's at Idle/Light Load and not full Load, I would recommend using manual Vcore.

I use Offset for 4.5GHz. Works perfectly.


I forgot who mentioned it on this thread, but disabling C3 and C6 fixes the idle problem BSOD problem. And i have confirmed it works for my 48 multi, which used to idle BSOD all the time.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

whats the difference with by per core or by all core when OC.


----------



## Thogar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage*


whats the difference with by per core or by all core when OC.


You can control each cores overclock frequency, for example core 1 could be 4.8Ghz while core 2 could be 4Ghz and so on.


----------



## crazykiddo

Hi, I have P8P67 motherboard, thinking it was defective but I want to make sure before return it..
I got 2 different ram:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231460
They both non-working if I put 2 slot to A1,A2 or B1,B2. the only slot that make mobo load into bios is single A2 or B2. Tried with many timing and voltage but no luck? Is these ram non-compatible or my mobo was defective?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazykiddo;13863889*
> Hi, I have P8P67 motherboard, thinking it was defective but I want to make sure before return it..
> I got 2 different ram:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231460
> They both non-working if I put 2 slot to A1,A2 or B1,B2. the only slot that make mobo load into bios is single A2 or B2. Tried with many timing and voltage but no luck? Is these ram non-compatible or my mobo was defective?


Try A2 and B2 (the blue ones).


----------



## crazykiddo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13863932*
> Try A2 and B2 (the blue ones).


Blues are B1 and B2. You mean I should put 2 ram in different color?


----------



## Thogar

Great, my internal sound is somewhat distorted, also half the time it sounds like its 64kpbs (even windows sounds and beeps), some youtube videos do it, but not all.
wiped drivers and reinstalled, its better but it still persists...


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazykiddo;13863955*
> Blues are B1 and B2. You mean I should put 2 ram in different color?


Try both blue slots


----------



## crazykiddo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13865403*
> Try both blue slots


yeah, the 1600 look exactly same as your... but it doesn't work to me... I tried put them both in blue slots but the red light just keep flashing, I took one (B1) out and it able to boot, but if I took (B2) and leave the (B1) in there it won't boot, same with the black slots. Sort off the A1, B1 doesn't work








Can you tell me what your timing and voltage to make them work? Thanks


----------



## ACHILEE5

9-9-9-24 Timings @ 1.5v

Have you tried the Mem OK button?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazykiddo;13865574*
> yeah, the 1600 look exactly same as your... but it doesn't work to me... I tried put them both in blue slots but the red light just keep flashing, I took one (B1) out and it able to boot, but if I took (B2) and leave the (B1) in there it won't boot, same with the black slots. Sort off the A1, B1 doesn't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you tell me what your timing and voltage to make them work? Thanks


You have tried putting all settings in default right? Because the board is very good in adjusting memory issues. Also, you have testing each single RAM to see if the system boots up with each single stick?


----------



## turrican9

*crazykiddo* also started a thread here about that issue.

This may turn out to be a faulty board.


----------



## chrisgtl

Can I join?

Asus P8P67 Pro B3 Rev 3.0

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisgtl;13867357*
> Can I join?
> 
> Asus P8P67 Pro B3 Rev 3.0
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


Welcome to the P8P67 Series/PRO Club mate !







I'll add you in a moment !









btw: I just got 3 of those OCN flames


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13867437*
> Welcome to the P8P67 Series/PRO Club mate !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll add you in a moment !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw: I just got 3 of those OCN flames


You're welcome









You're input in my thread was worthy of bumping you up IMO.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

whats the difference with by per core or by all core when OC. Just to be clear when I put more voltage I am adding it into the cpu offset voltage right? I leave it the + sign and slowly increase/decrease. When I first OC and leave the offset to default would it do the correct volts


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13867646*
> whats the difference with by per core or by all core when OC. Just to be clear when I put more voltage I am adding it into the cpu offset voltage right? I leave it the + sign and slowly increase/decrease. When I first OC and leave the offset to default would it do the correct volts


When you select to adjust multipliers for all cores in bios, your OS won't be able to adjust them independently. I believe if you select to let OS adjust cores, that each core can run at different speed according to load.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

When you put volt values in the Offset field, you add the Vcore you type in there, to the VID of your CPU. However, the VID will vary between each different CPU, and also the speed you run it at.

My 2500K has 1.2410v VID when at 3.3GHz stock. This VID changes to 1.3410 when I overclock it to 4.5GHz. When I type in + 0.020 Volts for Offset, it will then give me 1.3410v + 0.020v = 1.3610v under load.

I have a pretty bad CPU with a high VID. Yours is probably a lower VID one.


----------



## chrisgtl

Thanks!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13867437*
> Welcome to the P8P67 Series/PRO Club mate !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll add you in a moment !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw: I just got 3 of those OCN flames


I've had such a nightmare upgrading my old X2 5000 black edition to my Sandybridge rig.

I started with the Gigabyte P67 UD3 motherboard but was not happy with the overclocking ability of it so sent it back as faulty re the cougar problem. Got refund and bought the MSI P67-GD65, first one they sent me was not a B3 revision so installed it to have a quick play and realized I could get 4.8Ghz on my 2500k but wasnt stable. Installed the B3 replacement and was happy until I flashed the BIOS with the latest final and my board died. No POST. MSI sent me a replacement which is sat in my bedroom doing nothing.

So went to PC shop and bought the Asus P8P67 Pro. Very happy with it and bought myself the Noctua D14 for it.

During my motherboard nightmare I bought a Vertex 3 OCZ SSD and another 1GB Palit GTX460 so now got myself my first ever SLI setup.

Bought another 4GB 1600 Corsair RAM too, so got 8GB in total now.

........and breath!!!

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisgtl;13867741*
> Thanks!!
> 
> I've had such a nightmare upgrading my old X2 5000 black edition to my Sandybridge rig.
> 
> I started with the Gigabyte P67 UD3 motherboard but was not happy with the overclocking ability of it so sent it back as faulty re the cougar problem. Got refund and bought the MSI P67-GD65, first one they sent me was not a B3 revision so installed it to have a quick play and realized I could get 4.8Ghz on my 2500k but wasnt stable. Installed the B3 replacement and was happy until I flashed the BIOS with the latest final and my board died. No POST. MSI sent me a replacement which is sat in my bedroom doing nothing.
> 
> So went to PC shop and bought the Asus P8P67 Pro. Very happy with it and bought myself the Noctua D14 for it.
> 
> During my motherboard nightmare I bought a Vertex 3 OCZ SSD and another 1GB Palit GTX460 so now got myself my first ever SLI setup.
> 
> Bought another 4GB 1600 Corsair RAM too, so got 8GB in total now.
> 
> ........and breath!!!
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


Well I hate to break it to you pal, but the SF chip in your Vertex 3 has just been recalled, so you'll probably be running into some more upgrade issues shortly


----------



## chrisgtl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidwolf909;13867867*
> Well I hate to break it to you pal, but the SF chip in your Vertex 3 has just been recalled, so you'll probably be running into some more upgrade issues shortly


Haha, I have read lots of problems with the OCZ controller, was starting to think I was a lucky one. Oh well, I bought my SSD from CCL Computers which is about 10 min drive for me.

I better take an image of my operating system drive then...lol

Not too sure about my XFX 850w PSU either, it squeels like buggery after having it 2 weeks....

God I love computing!

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## turrican9

Have updated info about Offset Vcore in the second post of this Club. Tried to explain it as simple as possible. But I will probably need to write some info about VID too, as not everyone knows what it is.
Quote:


> *A few Words about Offset Vcore.*
> *
> Me and others have seen that when using Offset instead of manually typing in the Vcore, you get a more stable Vcore - Vcore will fluctuate less VS manual Vcore. This again can contribute to a somewhat lower Vcore needed for a certain clock frequency VS manual Vcore setting.
> 
> When you put volt values in the Offset field, you add the Vcore you type in there, to the VID of your CPU. However, the VID will vary between each different CPU, and also the speed you run it at.
> 
> My 2500K has 1.2410v VID when at 3.3GHz stock. This VID changes to 1.3410 when I overclock it to 4.5GHz. When I type in + 0.020 Volts for Offset, it will then give me 1.3410v + 0.020v = 1.3610v under load. This was tested with LLC at Ultra high. My real Live Prime 95 Blend Vcore varied between 1.360v - 1.376v. And for the most part was about ~1.368v.
> 
> If you are stable at full load, like Prime95 while using Offset, but get BSOD's when Idle/light load it is probably because the CPU Vcore ramps down on different load.
> 
> This usually happens at higher overclocks when using Offset. For me it works perfectly to use Offset at 4.5GHz with no BSOD's. But if you get problems on higher overclocks, you can try one of two things:*
> 
> 
> *Try disabling C3/C6 states. This will hinder the CPU in ramping down the Vcore when Offset is used.
> 
> *
> Use manual Vcore setting instead of Offset.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

So I overclocked it today everything left it the same, I did
4.5ghz
turbo atio - By all cores
Internal pll - disabled
memory freq - auto(for the oc will change after)
cpu volt - left at offset.
Load line calibration - high.

I saw in cpuz volts were around 1.36 - 1.384 getting 77-81c probably would of went up more Celsius because I only did prime for 20min. I did not like the temps so I brought it down.

44ghz.
turbo atio - By all cores
Internal pll - disabled
memory freq - auto(for the oc will change after)
cpu volt - left at offset.
Load line calibration -medium.

Volts ranged from 1.328 - 1.344. I was getting 70c then doing it for 50min it went up to 77-79 range. I am not liking the volts one bit. What should I do???

Also I noticed when I restarted to change somethings in the bios my computer shutdown then booted in 1 shot?????? what should I do.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

I have the asus p8p67 pro overclocked to 4.4ghz. Is it better to let it hibernate or shut it down? I feel by leaving it hibernated its bad for it? Also for my volts I use offset so the volts are jumpy could that screw stuff up?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13869649*
> So I overclocked it today everything left it the same, I did
> 4.5ghz
> turbo atio - By all cores
> Internal pll - disabled
> memory freq - auto(for the oc will change after)
> cpu volt - left at offset.
> Load line calibration - high.
> 
> I saw in cpuz volts were around 1.36 - 1.384 getting 77-81c probably would of went up more Celsius because I only did prime for 20min. I did not like the temps so I brought it down.
> 
> 44ghz.
> turbo atio - By all cores
> Internal pll - disabled
> memory freq - auto(for the oc will change after)
> cpu volt - left at offset.
> Load line calibration -medium.
> 
> Volts ranged from 1.328 - 1.344. I was getting 70c then doing it for 50min it went up to 77-79 range. I am not liking the volts one bit. What should I do???
> 
> Also I noticed when I restarted to change somethings in the bios my computer shutdown then booted in 1 shot?????? what should I do.


1.36 - 1.384 for 4.5 ghz seems normal but the temps are too high. I have a bad setup and my temps reach high 60s max. i think it may have to do with llc. i tried ultra high llc once and my temps shot up to 85C. try to lower llc and add your offset. that should lower your temps.


----------



## Alex132

Re-seat the cooler?


----------



## DeadlyRampage

I will try the LLC on medium next time to see how it goes.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage*


I will try the LLC on medium next time to see how it goes.


Hibernate is fine as long as you have disabled the Internal PLL Overvoltage option.

Just tested Hibernate in my board now, it works just fine.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

thanks man. So Right now I will just leave it at 4.4ghz. I shutdown and everything is fine so far. I only ran prime for 50mins though. I am scared to run prime for 4 hours because the computer hibernates. Wouldnt that affect prime.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13871155*
> thanks man. So Right now I will just leave it at 4.4ghz. I shutdown and everything is fine so far. I only ran prime for 50mins though. I am scared to run prime for 4 hours because the computer hibernates. Wouldnt that affect prime.


Go in the control panel, under power options, then advanced. Select that the computer will never go to sleep.

You can just do that yourself when you need it to sleep.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Thanks gonna run prime now.


----------



## Nethermir

question. when using offset, is it ok to go beyond +0.06? i think there is a warning on the bios not to go over 0.06.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


question. when using offset, is it ok to go beyong +0.06? i think there is a warning on the bios not to go over 0.06.


That will depend on your CPU VID and where your Vcore ends up, after you have added Offset. I cannot imagine that Offset in itself has some limit.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13868083*
> Have updated info about Offset Vcore in the second post of this Club. Tried to explain it as simple as possible. But I will probably need to write some info about VID too, as not everyone knows what it is.


I dont think disabling C3 and C6 hinder the CPU from lowering the Vcore. My Vcore is still lowering(1.08V), but maybe not as much when not under load while they are disabled. So you should look a little more into what C3 and C6 actually do on these boards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13871258*
> question. when using offset, is it ok to go beyond +0.06? i think there is a warning on the bios not to go over 0.06.


Its not so much a warning, but it changes yellow after 0.06 to let you know that it inst completely safe. That is my assumption.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13867719*
> When you select to adjust multipliers for all cores in bios, your OS won't be able to adjust them independently. I believe if you select to let OS adjust cores, that each core can run at different speed according to load.
> 
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


I cant prove that your wrong, but i always thought that it just meant the multi can be changed in the OS by using AI suite. I have tried using it once, but i BSOD(forgot to change the Vcore lol).


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13872660*
> I dont think disabling C3 and C6 hinder the CPU from lowering the Vcore. My Vcore is still lowering(1.08V), but maybe not as much when not under load while they are disabled. So you should look a little more into what C3 and C6 actually do on these boards.


I will investigate this closer. Maybe I have been missinformed earlier on. Will try it on my system.


----------



## wermad

Im ready to oc, any guides to get me started would be appreciated


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Have fun man. I just did it yesterday. Started with 4.0ghz now I am at 4.5ghz. Read the last few pages from 118 some great info. Very basic process bro. GL!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13877316*
> Have fun man. I just did it yesterday. Started with 4.0ghz now I am at 4.5ghz. Read the last few pages from 118 some great info. Very basic process bro. GL!!


Thanks. Im so use to the lagacy bios, I was able to get a good 4.4 out of my old i7 950. which shouldn't break a sweat for my new setup. I'll go at it as I have done before, trial and error. Thanks for the info, +1.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13876462*
> Im ready to oc, any guides to get me started would be appreciated


Read the second post of this Club







Good luck !


----------



## turrican9

Updated the second-post 'Overclocking' with these links...
Quote:


> *
> Monitoring/CPU-ID and Stability Testing Software Links*
> 
> *Monitoring/CPU-ID*
> CPU-Z Home
> Real Temp Home
> HWiNFO 32/64 Home
> Core Temp Home
> CPUID HWMonitor Home
> 
> *Stability Testing Software*
> Prime 95 Home (Blend test highly recommended for Sandybridge)
> IBT Home
> OCCT Home


----------



## dajposkakac

Guys, I have a problem. I'm trying to boot Ubuntu from my flash drive. I've made a liveUSB using Unetbootin and my flash drive doesn't show up in BIOS at all. It's not in the boot priority menu or anywhere else. When I boot into windows I can see all of the files on there. I tried it on my laptop and it DOES work, it boots up and its working with no problem. The flash drive is formatted in FAT32...
I'm probably missing something small here as usual, but I really don't know what it is... I tried the USB 3.0 port on the back, USB2.0 on the back of my mobo and USB2.0 on the front of my case...
Thanks for any help


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dajposkakac;13880803*
> Guys, I have a problem. I'm trying to boot Ubuntu from my flash drive. I've made a liveUSB using Unetbootin and my flash drive doesn't show up in BIOS at all. It's not in the boot priority menu or anywhere else. When I boot into windows I can see all of the files on there. I tried it on my laptop and it DOES work, it boots up and its working with no problem. The flash drive is formatted in FAT32...
> I'm probably missing something small here as usual, but I really don't know what it is... I tried the USB 3.0 port on the back, USB2.0 on the back of my mobo and USB2.0 on the front of my case...
> Thanks for any help


Tried selecting USB Legacy mode for the USB ports in bios?


----------



## dajposkakac

In Advanced -> USB config? Both USB and USB3.0 are on enabled and they were enabled all the time


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dajposkakac;13880998*
> In Advanced -> USB config? Both USB and USB3.0 are on enabled and they were enabled all the time


Yes, but can you select Legacy mode?


----------



## dajposkakac

well, no. I don't see any option for that in there... unless it's somewhere else


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dajposkakac;13881092*
> well, no. I don't see any option for that in there... unless it's somewhere else


Well, there you go. Was it enabled? If so, try to disable it. If it was disabled, enable it.

It may also be that your USB stick have a compatability problem with this mobo.


----------



## dajposkakac

I tried with it disabled and enabled and there was no option for booting from USB. The BIOS sees the flash drive as "1 Drive" in that screenshot in my post above, but it still doesn't show up in the boot priority menu


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dajposkakac*


I tried with it disabled and enabled and there was no option for booting from USB. The BIOS sees the flash drive as "1 Drive" in that screenshot in my post above, but it still doesn't show up in the boot priority menu


What bios are you using? Have another USB stick to try with?

If I leave my USB stick in any USB port, it will try to boot from it, without touching boot priority.


----------



## dajposkakac

1606 BIOS and I don't have any more memory sticks...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dajposkakac*


1606 BIOS and I don't have any more memory sticks...


Try to clear cmos, then see if it may work...


----------



## grunion

Will it see the flashdrive if the drive is not bootable?

N/M I see the op regarding the issue.

Hmm


----------



## dajposkakac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Try to clear cmos, then see if it may work...


Nope, didn't work

and I'm fairly sure that the flash drive IS bootable


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dajposkakac*


Nope, didn't work

and I'm fairly sure that the flash drive IS bootable


Try unplugging all other USB devices that you don't need to operate the computer.

Also, try disabling the Marvell and JMicron controllers in bios.


----------



## dajposkakac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Try unplugging all other USB devices that you don't need to operate the computer.

Also, try disabling the Marvell and JMicron controllers in bios.


Unplugged everything except for the keyboard and the flash drive - didn't show up in boot priority either.

they are both disabled, I tried with them enabled too, no luck


----------



## grunion

I'd go ahead and reformat it and make sure it's bootable.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dajposkakac*


Unplugged everything except for the keyboard and the flash drive - didn't show up in boot priority either.

they are both disabled, I tried with them enabled too, no luck


Did you use this to make it bootable?


----------



## dajposkakac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grunion*


I'd go ahead and reformat it and make sure it's bootable.


I already reformatted it three times and installed the whole thing and it DOES work on my laptop, which is a refurbished piece of junk from Argos


----------



## dajposkakac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Did you use this to make it bootable?


No, I wanted to try now, but it says 
"The software is not supported for installation on this system.

The OS is not supported."


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dajposkakac*


No, I wanted to try now, but it says 
"The software is not supported for installation on this system.

The OS is not supported."


Try this one


----------



## dajposkakac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Try this one


That formats my drive... but I guess I'll try and install it again... maybe a different version


----------



## turrican9

*grunion*

I can't seem to find you on the owners list?


----------



## dajposkakac

By the way, should "Create a DOS startup disk" be ticked? I guess not, but I just wanna make sure, since it only allows me to "using DOS system files located at:"


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dajposkakac*


By the way, should "Create a DOS startup disk" be ticked? I guess not, but I just wanna make sure, since it only allows me to "using DOS system files located at:"


I don't think so


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Just to update right now I am at 4.4ghz stable. I am using LLC at I think it was high or medium. I am going to try tomorrow to put it at regular and run prime. I like lower volts and lower temps. I love my system. Thanks for the help guys!!!!!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13882025*
> Just to update right now I am at 4.4ghz stable. I am using LLC at I think it was high or medium. I am going to try tomorrow to put it at regular and run prime. I like lower volts and lower temps. I love my system. Thanks for the help guys!!!!!


You're welcome. Also I have put links to Hardware monitoring/Stability testing progz in the second post of this Club mate


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Thanks I will check that out. So whats next. I was going to do my video card but I just found out that it doesnt have the dual bios so I guess no unlocking it. hmmm modding I wanna get the glass side panel and some lights. Oh and I am really thinking of crossfiring it and getting other monitor. lol


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13882107*
> Thanks I will check that out. So whats next. I was going to do my video card but I just found out that it doesnt have the dual bios so I guess no unlocking it. hmmm modding I wanna get the glass side panel and some lights. Oh and I am really thinking of crossfiring it and getting other monitor. lol


For your Video card, go here.


----------



## sanitarium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13869649*
> So I overclocked it today everything left it the same, I did
> 4.5ghz
> turbo atio - By all cores
> Internal pll - disabled
> memory freq - auto(for the oc will change after)
> cpu volt - left at offset.
> Load line calibration - high.
> 
> I saw in cpuz volts were around 1.36 - 1.384 getting 77-81c probably would of went up more Celsius because I only did prime for 20min. I did not like the temps so I brought it down.
> 
> 44ghz.
> turbo atio - By all cores
> Internal pll - disabled
> memory freq - auto(for the oc will change after)
> cpu volt - left at offset.
> Load line calibration -medium.
> 
> Volts ranged from 1.328 - 1.344. I was getting 70c then doing it for 50min it went up to 77-79 range. I am not liking the volts one bit. What should I do???
> 
> Also I noticed when I restarted to change somethings in the bios my computer shutdown then booted in 1 shot?????? what should I do.


Those voltages seem high.
On my setup I'm doing 4.5 at a voltage setting of 1.32 and cpuz seeing 1.30 to 1.312 volts. And I have pll overvoltage enabled.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## dajposkakac

well, apparently the empty space is my memory stick... ***... but ok, that issue is solved.
now I tried to boot it 5 times, it only booted successfully once but it froze when i tried to open mozlilla and other 4 times it gave me some hardware error, but thats not a question for this section i guess

thanks everyone for your time and your help


----------



## chrisgtl

Help...

I've been reading about the VID and using offset vcore to overclock but I dont quite understand it all.

Settings are:-

PLL overvolt - Disable
LLC - Regular (0%)

Vcore - Auto

Turbo - x45

My VID at x45 says 1.347 and VID at x16 says 1.007. So what do I set my offset at?

I'm just looking for an overclock that uses low vcore but gives me some power increase over stock on my 2500k.

Thanks

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisgtl;13883427*
> Help...
> 
> I've been reading about the VID and using offset vcore to overclock but I dont quite understand it all.
> 
> Settings are:-
> 
> PLL overvolt - Disable
> LLC - Regular (0%)
> 
> Vcore - Auto
> 
> Turbo - x45
> 
> My VID at x45 says 1.347 and VID at x16 says 1.007. So what do I set my offset at?
> 
> I'm just looking for an overclock that uses low vcore but gives me some power increase over stock on my 2500k.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


Well, if you're VID says 1.347v at 4.5GHz you have an even worse CPU than me









Anyway, there is no way saying how much Vcore your particular CPU needs at 4.5GHz. You just have to try. Run Prime95 Blend. If BSOD, add Offset. Begin with 0.010v and so on.


----------



## chrisgtl

I always knew my 2500k was a crap one. :-(

Maybe I try fry it and get another?

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## chrisgtl

Oh, I got my VID from CoreTemp utility. Is this ok?

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisgtl;13883744*
> Oh, I got my VID from CoreTemp utility. Is this ok?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


Yes, disable Turbo and boot Windows. Core Temp will then show you you're true VID.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Hey I just downloaded core temp to check it out and for

TJ max it says 98c?? whenver I play my games real temps show me 57c max.

all my cores right now on idle are 28c,35c,30c,30c,

I read somewhere TJ max is important confused??


----------



## DeadlyRampage

*** just read somewhere if you hit 100c you will get shutdown? You need to be atleast 20c below it? But all my temps in real temp look fine. Playing games max is like 57c. Prime I get like 75c. Idle is low 30's.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13883977*
> Hey I just downloaded core temp to check it out and for
> 
> TJ max it says 98c?? whenver I play my games real temps show me 57c max.
> 
> all my cores right now on idle are 28c,35c,30c,30c,
> 
> I read somewhere TJ max is important confused??


TJ max is just the Max temp for your CPU.

You're fine. Nice temps


----------



## DeadlyRampage




----------



## DeadlyRampage

ohh woooo got scared.


----------



## turrican9

I will consider leaving the OCN if not the Moderator status of a certain person are removed. This guy is not suited to be a moderator. He abuses his powers. Several people have complained about this guy.

Unless he is removed as a moderator I will retire from the OCN.


----------



## chrisgtl

Can't find much info on my i2500k, my batch is L036B112.

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## DeadlyRampage

turrican man you cant retire. your the P67 king man. What can I do to make him deranked?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13884654*
> turrican man you cant retire. your the P67 king man. What can I do to make him deranked?


Thanks







But I refuse to continue in here with that guy as a moderator







He should never have that status. In my opinion he is not suited for it.

Only thing you can do is to support me


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Im all support man.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13884717*
> Im all support man.


I'm a very stubborn person, but that won't help me in here if people go against me. But I thank you for your support mate


----------



## wermad

Thanks again for the link to xs.org turr, I'm up and running @ 4.8, time to run stability


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Niceee 4.8 post screen shots later bro. what did you do in bios??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13885108*
> Niceee 4.8 post screen shots later bro. what did you do in bios??


Only had time to run IBT and it passed. I'll be doing a half hour of prime to ensure stability.

This is the link, its posted in the first page of this thread:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=265398


----------



## Subbieh

So I currently have a P67A-UD4 (not B3 yet) from Gigabyte and I'm trading it in soon (Intel return thingy).
Now, I'm thinking about getting either another Gigabyte or getting back to Asus.
But what I am wondering:
Do the ASUS mobos have problems with LONG booting times too? My UD4 takes ages to complete a POST, I get a screen that shows "Booting Operating System" after (which takes ages too) and then the Windows boot starts...
Was this a common problem with all P67's or just the UD4?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subbieh;13885683*
> So I currently have a P67A-UD4 (not B3 yet) from Gigabyte and I'm trading it in soon (Intel return thingy).
> Now, I'm thinking about getting either another Gigabyte or getting back to Asus.
> But what I am wondering:
> Do the ASUS mobos have problems with LONG booting times too? My UD4 takes ages to complete a POST, I get a screen that shows "Booting Operating System" after (which takes ages too) and then the Windows boot starts...
> Was this a common problem with all P67's or just the UD4?


No, the Asus ones do not have this problem. It may be a little delay if you leave the Marvell controller enabled. I only use the 6 native ports, and have a very fast boot.


----------



## Subbieh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13885720*
> No, the Asus ones do not have this problem. It may be a little delay if you leave the Marvell controller enabled. I only use the 6 native ports, and have a very fast boot.


Thanks for the response (+Rep)! Attleast, I get one here (different than the Gigabyte topic...)
But doesn't the marvell controls the S-ATA3 ports?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subbieh;13886117*
> Thanks for the response (+Rep)! Attleast, I get one here (different than the Gigabyte topic...)
> But doesn't the marvell controls the S-ATA3 ports?


The Marvell's support 2x 6GB/s (Navy Blue ports). Intel Native is 2x 6GB/s (Grey ones) and 4x 3GB/s (Blue ones)


----------



## Subbieh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13886176*
> The Marvell's support 2x 6GB/s (Navy Blue ports). Intel Native is 2x 6GB/s (Grey ones) and 4x 3GB/s (Blue ones)


Allright, cheers! You had any problems with the ASUS P67's or are you really happy with them?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subbieh;13886224*
> Allright, cheers! You had any problems with the ASUS P67's or are you really happy with them?


I'm really happy with Asus. And no problems mate


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subbieh;13886224*
> Allright, cheers! You had any problems with the ASUS P67's or are you really happy with them?


I'm happy








I just got a second GTX480 for Sli


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13886278*
> I'm happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just got a second GTX480 for Sli


Nice mate


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subbieh;13886117*
> Thanks for the response (+Rep)! Attleast, I get one here (different than the Gigabyte topic...)
> But doesn't the marvell controls the S-ATA3 ports?


The Marvell controller is for the two navy blue Sata6Gb/s ports that are located on the far right of the Sata ports. It doesn't support Raid. The other Sata ports are controlled by the P67 chipset. The Marvell controller exists because of a limitation on the P67 chipset, and i recommend you don't use it unless its necessary.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage;13884053*


Make sure you use RealTemp 3.67(or higher) for better Sandy Bridge support. turrican9 should link it in the OP so i dont have to tell everyone. Here are the changes as far as i know:
-added Sandy Bridge VID / power consumption monitoring.
-added Sandy Bridge power limit adjustments if they are not locked by the bios.
-added ability to save the log file to a network computer.
-added Disable Turbo (IDA) option for Core 2 mobile CPUs.
-updated i7 Turbo GT program for Sandy Bridge CPUs.
-also updated the RTCore.dll RivaTuner plugin.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13884517*
> I will consider leaving the OCN if not the Moderator status of *justarealguy* are removed. This guy is not suited to be a moderator. He abuses his powers. Several people have complained about this guy.
> 
> Unless he is removed as a moderator I will retire from the OCN.


Is he personally abusing you with his powers? And i haven't actually seen this guy so i don't know what hes done, but then again, i don't know many mods. And please don't leave OCN, we need you!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13885720*
> No, the Asus ones do not have this problem. It may be a little delay if you leave the Marvell controller enabled. I only use the 6 native ports, and have a very fast boot.


I don't know if its just me, but i have had some VERY slow boot ups. For example, yesterday it took ~30secs to get past the POST screen, and it happened every time i restarted the computer. This wasn't the first time this has happened, but i think it was fixed with proper shutdown, then wait a bit, then turn it on again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subbieh;13886224*
> Allright, cheers! You had any problems with the ASUS P67's or are you really happy with them?


No complaints here, but if i i would have gone with a deluxe or Z68 Pro for the extra phases, if i had the money, or waited for the Z68. Of course the Maximus Extreme is another amazing mobo... But ultimately it came down to timing and my budget, and this mobo is probably the best choice i made in my build.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13886311*
> Make sure you use RealTemp 3.67(or higher) for better Sandy Bridge support. turrican9 should link it in the OP.


http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1012874-official-asus-1155-p8p67-p8z68-v-128.html#post13880649


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13886424*
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1012874-official-asus-1155-p8p67-p8z68-v-128.html#post13880649


TPU only has 3.60. 3.67 can be found here:
http://www.overclock.net/12127918-post145.html


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13886494*
> TPU only has 3.60. 3.67 can be found here:
> http://www.overclock.net/12127918-post145.html


Nice info







Maybe you should be taking over this Club if I resign?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13886524*
> Nice info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you should be taking over this Club if I resign?


I don't think im active or knowledgeable enough. And at the current rate of questions, ill have a very hard time keeping up. But i can help out here and there. So you should find someone else who is on OCN a lot more than me, and has much more computer knowledge. Ill take that as a compliment though









Oh, and congratz on post #1337!


----------



## DeadlyRampage

deleting post as I didnt read nawon723 post.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Subbieh*


So I currently have a P67A-UD4 (not B3 yet) from Gigabyte and I'm trading it in soon (Intel return thingy).
Now, I'm thinking about getting either another Gigabyte or getting back to Asus.
But what I am wondering:
Do the ASUS mobos have problems with LONG booting times too? My UD4 takes ages to complete a POST, I get a screen that shows "Booting Operating System" after (which takes ages too) and then the Windows boot starts...
Was this a common problem with all P67's or just the UD4?


how long is a "long" booting time on your gigabyte? with marvell disabled, it takes about 20~ secs from the time i press the power button up to the windows login screen on my board.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

Same here ^^^


----------



## Ap0llo

Hello!

I'm a newbie here.

Can you guys suggest an ASUS mobo that is really good at overclocking. I want to reach at least 4.5GHz stable.

I'm eyeing on p8p67 pro but I really won't do SLI and Xfire so it would be a waste of money if I'd choose a board that does. Any alternative? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Nethermir

oi pinoy









if not the pro, then ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0). i am at 4.5 ghz stable, ocs nicely and easily. got 4.0 without a hitch, then straight to 4.5 ghz.


----------



## Subbieh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13890549*
> how long is a "long" booting time on your gigabyte? with marvell disabled, it takes about 20~ secs from the time i press the power button up to the windows login screen on my board.


I'm allmost certain I will be over that, BIOS post takes ages. I'll do the test and time it







Gimme a mom









*I just have done the test*: It takes over *1 minute to boot* to Windows...


----------



## chrisgtl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subbieh;13885683*
> So I currently have a P67A-UD4 (not B3 yet) from Gigabyte and I'm trading it in soon (Intel return thingy).
> Now, I'm thinking about getting either another Gigabyte or getting back to Asus.
> But what I am wondering:
> Do the ASUS mobos have problems with LONG booting times too? My UD4 takes ages to complete a POST, I get a screen that shows "Booting Operating System" after (which takes ages too) and then the Windows boot starts...
> Was this a common problem with all P67's or just the UD4?


Trust me fella, get the Asus. I've had all 3 P67 motherboards from Gigabyte, MSI and Asus. The Asus is perfect in everyway, best BIOS, boots FAR quicker than the other two.

Learn from my expensive mistake! Go Asus!!

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## Ap0llo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13890996*
> oi pinoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if not the pro, then ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0). i am at 4.5 ghz stable, ocs nicely and easily. got 4.0 without a hitch, then straight to 4.5 ghz.


Hello! Glad to find another pinoy here.









I'm having a hard time finding that board here. Most sell the PRO and up version.







Would a P8P67 LE be a good substitute?


----------



## munaim1

Hey turrican everything okay bro? Don't know full story but PM me and i'll be sure to help you out if you need it









Anyways thought I'd let you know, this is where I usually get IBT from, it gets regularly updated and thought i'd share the link. There's IBT and also LinX is available with AVX. HERE


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ap0llo;13891254*
> Hello! Glad to find another pinoy here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having a hard time finding that board here. Most sell the PRO and up version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would a P8P67 LE be a good substitute?


There are lots of pinoys here







I think there's a pinoy club somewhere.

I don't know the difference between the P8P67 and the LE, I guess it isn't that much, and a few heatsinks less. If you don't need pro, go LE then.


----------



## roboz

Could someone please direct me to a P8Z68-v pro overclocking guide. I have a core i7 2600K and Corsair Vengence ram and I am a beginner and not sure how to overclock without "frying" my computer.

Thank You.


----------



## Shane1244

2600k is
Quote:


> Out for Delivery.


T-minus 2 hours till SandyBridge e-Rection


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13893924*
> 2600k is
> 
> T-minus 2 hours till SandyBridge e-Rection


Nice one


----------



## Oblivion77

When I reboot my computer the asus logo screen appears twice. The order goes Asus screen -> black screen flash -> Asus screen -> Windows. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roboz;13893789*
> Could someone please direct me to a P8Z68-v pro overclocking guide. I have a core i7 2600K and Corsair Vengence ram and I am a beginner and not sure how to overclock without "frying" my computer.
> 
> Thank You.


+1, I would like to know this as well.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oblivion77;13894209*
> When I reboot my computer the asus logo screen appears twice. The order goes Asus screen -> black screen flash -> Asus screen -> Windows. Does anyone know how to fix this?
> 
> +1, I would like to know this as well.


If you don't have anything connected to Marvell, disable it.

For overclocking, check the first page of this thread or just visit this http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265398-Official-ASUS-P8P67-Series-Overclocking-Guide-and-Information


----------



## Oblivion77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13895100*
> If you don't have anything connected to Marvell, disable it.
> 
> For overclocking, check the first page of this thread or just visit this http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265398-Official-ASUS-P8P67-Series-Overclocking-Guide-and-Information


I don't have anything connected to the navy blue sata6 ports, so I disabled the marvell. Before I disabled it I would get a message saying there is no HDD connect to marvell (there would still be 2 Asus logo screens when restarting). After I disabled the marvell the "no HDD" message is gone, but I still get 2 logo screens when restarting.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oblivion77;13896641*
> I don't have anything connected to the navy blue sata6 ports, so I disabled the marvell. Before I disabled it I would get a message saying there is no HDD connect to marvell (there would still be 2 Asus logo screens when restarting). After I disabled the marvell the "no HDD" message is gone, but I still get 2 logo screens when restarting.


What BIOS are you using? I used to have this problem, but i forgot what fixed it. It may have been flashing to the latest BIOS.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13891358*
> Anyways thought I'd let you know, this is where I usually get IBT from, it gets regularly updated and thought i'd share the link. There's IBT and also LinX is available with AVX. HERE


Thanks for the link

Edit: I FAIL. Sorry for double post.


----------



## Thogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oblivion77;13894209*
> When I reboot my computer the asus logo screen appears twice. The order goes Asus screen -> black screen flash -> Asus screen -> Windows. Does anyone know how to fix this?


Disable the Marvell and Jmicron SATA controllers in the bios








Edit: wait did you disable the jmicron controller as well?


----------



## Shane1244

Wow.. SOOO Got my chip. Before installing windows, I went right to 4.0Ghz. After installation, I did a +.02 offset, and went for 4.5Ghz. Been stable for 20 minutes so far, Sandy Bridge is tooooo awesome!


----------



## Doodlebro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Wow.. SOOO Got my chip. Before installing windows, I went right to 4.0Ghz. After installation, I did a +.02 offset, and went for 4.5Ghz. Been stable for 20 minutes so far, Sandy Bridge is tooooo awesome!











I don't recommend overclocking anything before you install windows. If anything were unstable you might have errors with your install. Granted it's not an overclock that needs much work to be stable, but you still shouldn't do that


----------



## wermad

having some issues w/ boot up too. At times, I will hold delete for a few seconds and nothing happens. Other times, it just goes straight windows loading.


----------



## 4x4n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ap0llo*


Hello! Glad to find another pinoy here.









I'm having a hard time finding that board here. Most sell the PRO and up version.







Would a P8P67 LE be a good substitute?


No, don't get the LE. Power regulation is crap with it, get at least the vanilla version.


----------



## Cabhills

So I am overclocking at 4.5 GHz at the moment and I have the offset to auto. I was wondering how long I should run prime for? the Vid at the moment according to Real temps is 1.3611. Also I have another question about what to set the VRM Frequency to. Is 350 alright for 4.5 GHz. According to the overclocking guide, that value is used for 4.8 GHz and above.

Edit: moved the offset to +.010 since I was getting a Vcore of 1.376 with auto offset. Now getting a Vcore of 1.336. Not sure how long I should let prime run for this offset or if I should lower the offset to see if I can get a lower Vcore.


----------



## diddly3000

hi lads this is my first post i joined up because of this awesome helpful thread







i have an asus p67 pro board which is currently on its way back from uk with a b3 sticker on the box lol. 
i have one question for you lot







which 6 gb/s controller is better marvel or intel? i only just found out here that the double post is caused by the marvell controller, i will disable it if the intel controller is better, if not i will just use marvell controller. 
thanks, michael.


----------



## chrisgtl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *diddly3000*


hi lads this is my first post i joined up because of this awesome helpful thread







i have an asus p67 pro board which is currently on its way back from uk with a b3 sticker on the box lol. 
i have one question for you lot







which 6 gb/s controller is better marvel or intel? i only just found out here that the double post is caused by the marvell controller, i will disable it if the intel controller is better, if not i will just use marvell controller. 
thanks, michael.


I do believe the Intel controller has better performance than the Marvell controller using certain drives/setups.

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## diddly3000

nice one cheers i will disable it so (when i get my mobo back







) also i noticed if you turn off asus logo in bios it improves your post times, well it did for me at least. only thing i want to stop is the duel boot on start up thats annoying


----------



## chrisgtl

Dual boot?

You have two versions of Windows installed?

Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


----------



## diddly3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisgtl;13903668*
> Dual boot?
> 
> You have two versions of Windows installed?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S /w Infinity ROM


sorry should have been clearer, my machine starts then shuts off before post. then starts again and posts?


----------



## Cabhills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diddly3000;13904459*
> sorry should have been clearer, my machine starts then shuts off before post. then starts again and posts?


Read the sticky on the first page about the Cold Boot. Should help you solve your problem when you get your board back.


----------



## wermad

Can't get out of sleep, just doesn't wake. I have to powercycle a few times to get going, but I get the led debug code "3A". I am using the oc from the linked xs.org. I tried different ram but nothing







. I'm running 1103, I'll be flashing the newer bios tonight to see if it helps. Any suggestion, +1.

-wermad


----------



## sanitarium

p8p67 pro 
For the win!


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13913235*
> Can't get out of sleep, just doesn't wake. I have to powercycle a few times to get going, but I get the led debug code "3A". I am using the oc from the linked xs.org. I tried different ram but nothing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm running 1103, I'll be flashing the newer bios tonight to see if it helps. Any suggestion, +1.
> 
> -wermad


That's the internal pll voltage bug, you have it enabled?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13913686*
> That's the internal pll voltage bug, you have it enabled?


Yes, I'm using the xs.org oc guide. Should I disable it or set it to "auto"


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13914229*
> Yes, I'm using the xs.org oc guide. Should I disable it or set it to "auto"


Disable it, see if it'll come out of sleep.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13891358*
> Anyways thought I'd let you know, this is where I usually get IBT from, it gets regularly updated and thought i'd share the link. There's IBT and also LinX is available with AVX. HERE


Thanks mate







Updated links









Also have updated about the wakeup from sleep/disable internal overvoltage solution. Somehow I had forgot to do this earlier on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanitarium;13913237*
> p8p67 pro
> For the win!


Welcome to the club !


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13916204*
> Also have updated about the wakeup from sleep/disable internal overvoltage solution. Somehow I had forgot to do this earlier on.


Quote:


> *Do you have wakeup from sleep/hibernate problems? Try to disable Internal PLL Overvoltage!*


People use Internal PLL Overvoltage to get a higher multi. If they disable it they wont be able to boot into the OS. So the real solution is to find out what clock speed you can still boot at, and use that. For me its 4.65xGHz.

I hope people aren't using Internal PLL Overvoltage when they can boot into OS without it.
Quote:


> _*Try disabling C3/C6 states. This will hinder the CPU in ramping down the Vcore (as much?) when at idle/light load with Offset Vcore. (Will try this myself. Got a report it helped stability.)*_


Ive been using 4.8GHz without C3 and C6 for about a week now, and i haven't had a single idle BSOD. Even when the OC failed Prime95 blend in 4 hours. So for my CPU at least, disabling C3 and C6 completely solved the idle BSOD problem.

Something that may be interesting is that i can boot without Internal PLL Overvoltage at 4.65xGHz, and i also start getting idle BSODs at 4.65xGHz.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


People use Internal PLL Overvoltage to get a higher multi. If they disable it they wont be able to boot into the OS. So the real solution is to find out what clock speed you can still boot at, and use that. For me its 4.65xGHz.

I hope people aren't using Internal PLL Overvoltage when they can boot into OS without it.

Ive been using 4.8GHz without C3 and C6 for about a week now, and i haven't had a single idle BSOD. Even when the OC failed Prime95 blend in 4 hours. So for my CPU at least, disabling C3 and C6 completely solved the idle BSOD problem.

Something that may be interesting is that i can boot without Internal PLL Overvoltage at 4.65xGHz, and i also start getting idle BSODs at 4.65xGHz.


How high multi people can boot with when Internal PLL Overvoltage is disabled will vary. But in the 47x - 48x range is pretty common I think.

However, I will make a note about this in first post.


----------



## nawon72

I think i now fully understand what ASUS said in their OC guide. The bolded parts are what you should read carefully.

Quote:



Expectations regarding K series overclocking in general and on ASUS P67 motherboards:
Prior to the recommendations on overclocking the K series, I am outlining our results to set expectations.
*The results below are based on the range of the CPU turbo multiplier when overclocking. 
Results are representative of 100 D2 CPUs that were binned and tested for stability under load; these results will most likely represent retail CPUs.
1. Approximately 50% of CPUs can go up to 4.4~4.5 GHz
2. Approximately 40% of CPUs can go up to 4.6~4.7 GHz
3. Approximately 10% of CPUs can go up to 4.8~5 GHz (50+ multipliers are about 2% of this group)
Additionally it is recommended to keep 「C1E」and「EIST」option enabled for the best overclock scaling.* This is different than previous Intel overclocking expectations where the best scaling was with disabled power states or power management options.


According to tests done by ASUS, these are the multipliers most CPUs will hit without Intel PLL Overvoltage enabled. That means mine is in the top 50%, which is average. Im not entirely sure what they mean by "overclock scaling", but i do know that disabling C1E and/or EIST isn't a good idea with Sandy Bridge.

Does anyone think we should have a poll to see what multiplier OCN users SB CPUs can hit without PLL Overvoltage?

Quote:



Update specific to D2 and retail parts: Jan 11 2001
As always ASUS strives to be at the forefront of performance and functionality offered by a quality bios. Keeping this in mind ASUS has been actively working in conjunction with Intel to optimize overclocking potential on ASUS P8P67 motherboards and K series CPUs. With the latest bios revisions ( 1000 series ) or 600 series for ROG specific optimizations have been made to the microcode and corresponding tables that relate to D2 and retail parts. These are improvement are in addition to general improvements in all respects. *Present with this new build of the UEFI is a new option. This option / value is " Intel PPL Overvoltage" this option furthers multiplier scaling considerably.** In addition due to the increase in scaling more exotic forms of cooling cannot be used and will be needed under certain multiplier ranges and corresponding voltages. The general maximum range for the highest performing dual fan air based heastinks still remains 50x to 52x.

* Intel PPL Overvoltage ( for increased K series overclocking set to enabled )


The bolded part is just saying that Intel PLL Overvoltage is a new option that is used to further multiplier scaling considerably. In other words, it allows you to reach a higher multiplier, and boot into windows. It does have some side effects though, so read below.

Quote:



Overall in our ongoing internal tests the maximum frequency now achievable ( under LN2 ) is 5.8GHz. At this time we do not have a compiled database to reference improvements in the overall scaling range or new % of CPUs able to hit 50+ multis. With that noted currently *we are seeing generally a minimum of 2 multi to as much as 7 multi increases with this value enabled on applicable D2 and retail parts.* *(nawon72: it is referring to the Intel PLL Overvoltage option)*
*Example
A D2 sample with peak multiplier of 44 with PPL option enabled and corresponding voltage applied we have seen results of a stable 50 multiplier now able to post / boot and be held. (previously without the PLL value the same CPU would failed to compelte a boot with a any multi exceeding 45)*
*In addition to the increase of the multiplier range a "side effect" is additional Vcore needed to compensate for maintained post/boot and stability tests.* The new voltage level do not align with standard voltage scaling ( on CPU already able to hit / sustain comparable multipliers.
*Example
Generally 4.8GHz stability can be achieved at 1.400 - 1.425 Vcore now with PLL enabled D2 parts exceeding their previous max multiplier the increase in voltage would be 1.425 - 1.450.*
It is important to note this option should generally only be used with D2 and retail parts NOT D1 parts. Internally we have partial results to indicate degradation of stability at previously reached multiplier values. Some internal testing has shown on limited samples that some improvement is possible (generally in the range of 1 multi possibly 2 )
*In addition continued testing with the PLL option enabled and D2 or retail parts have shown some benefits to CStates being disabled when approaching, at or exceeding a 50x multiplier. An important note to keep in mind is that disabling CStates can considerably affect HD performance (especially SATA6G)* Please keep this in mind when going for the highest level overclocks.


Because of the "side effect" cause by Intel PLL Overvoltage, higher multipliers are going to require more voltage than CPUs that don't have PLL enabled. Just keep that in mind when you are going for high 24/7 OCs. Another side effect of PLL Overvoltage is the inability to wakeup from sleep/hibernate. Im not sure is this can be fixed in a BIOS update.

I can confirm that disabling CStates(C3 and C6) helped me with stability when i was using a 48multi and PLL. Disabling them stopped the idle or low load BSODs i was getting.

If someone has a Vertex 3 or other very fast Sata6GB/s, could you use Crystal Disk Mark to see how much of a performance difference there is when CStates are disabled?

Does anyone know if it is supposed to be Intel PLL Overvoltage or Internal PLL Overvoltage?

I hope what i did helped some people understand the ASUS guide a bit more. It was written as badly as the manual that came with my mobo, so i fixed a few spelling errors.


----------



## wermad

I have it disabled and at 4.5, it still refuses to come out of sleep. I have to clear the cmos to to get back up and running. Its interesting how my settings are still applied even after I cleared the cmos









edit: at 4.0 it does the same thing, only way to keep this from happening is to shut if down. Is this only happening on Asus boards? or any p67 board?


----------



## crazybonze

I would like to join this club. I love my new motherboard.


----------



## wermad

I downloaded MCE Standby tool and I'll check tomorrow if it helped. I did disabled c1, c2, c3, & disabled pll. I hear a theory its temp related, mb won't start the cpu since it gets cold after an hour of sleep/hibernation. I am running the latest bios and its seems to be worse unfortunately.

http://slicksolutions.eu/downloads.shtml


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazybonze;13925223*
> I would like to join this club. I love my new motherboard.


Welcome to the Club mate







I'll add you in a moment


----------



## turrican9

Interesting, I will try this ! http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/942852-want-lower-sandy-bridge-voltage-please.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc;12411669*
> Be patient with me since english is not my native language.
> 
> So far i have been able to lower my voltage from 1.520v to 1.456v stable @ 5.1ghz. how did i do it?
> 
> i got my sandy bridge on release day and have been overclocking, trying to find out a stable highest clock with lowest voltage. People might think that it is easy but is not cause is to much time consuming. You are never satisfy with your speed cause you want you reach a new safe limit of it.
> 
> after trying so many thing and having a good batch (i know it doesnt matter much) i couldn't understand why everyone was beatting my voltage.
> 
> The problem lies in the RAM and VCCIO voltage. Sandy bridge overclocking seems to be afected by ram (size and overclocking) and VCCIO volage somehow. i see that must overclocker can achive higher core/lower voltage with only 4gb (2x2gb) while people with (2x4gb) can also reach it but with higher voltage (core voltage).
> 
> i started tweaking with all voltage. i spend 2 entire days doing this, enabling and disabling, prime95 and all. I found out that if you have 8gb and overclocking your ram is limiting to have a stable overclock with lower voltage and you might think is the CPU fault.
> 
> After working with all the voltage my motherboard has to offer, i went back to VCCIO voltage (every other voltage on auto) and notice that if i decreased it my overclocking at same VCORE would become instable (0.800v). BUT increasing VCCIO BECAME STABLE AT LOWER VCORE. i was able to decrease my vcore from 1.520v to 1.456v by increasing VCCIO voltage to 1.18V. Do not go overboard on VCCIO voltage and try to maintain 1.2v or lower.
> 
> Before my pc would not boot 5.1ghz with 1.48V and now i'm prime95 4 hours stable with 1.456v. I even think that i can go even lower.
> 
> Please do not bash my post just trying to help because that is why we are here right...


----------



## kcuestag

Can I be added to the club?

Here's a picture;










PS: Yes, it is a B2 motherboard, I cba to RMA it, SATA 2 ports are fine.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag;13925843*
> Can I be added to the club?
> 
> Here's a picture;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: Yes, it is a B2 motherboard, I cba to RMA it, SATA 2 ports are fine.


Welcome to the Club mate !







Nice system there







Will add you in a moment, and add a 'System Pictures' link behind your nick to this post


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13925856*
> Welcome to the Club mate !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice system there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will add you in a moment, and add a 'System Pictures' link behind your nick to this post


Thanks!









Sadly summer temps have arrived here already (+34ºC during day) and I can't leave the A/C running 24/7 while Folding, so I had to back it down to 4.6Ghz.









It'll probably be even worse in July-August as temps there are a good 40-42ºC during the day here in Spain.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag;13925862*
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly summer temps have arrived here already (+34ºC during day) and I can't leave the A/C running 24/7 while Folding, so I had to back it down to 4.6Ghz.


Ahh, you live in Spain.. No wonder it's hot









Even here, far North in Norway, we have had sun and over 20c + in the Shadow the past days. Pretty uncommon here









I'm testing lower Vcore on my Sandy now, using increased VCCIO volts. Hope it works! Maybe my 2500K wasn't that bad after all! *crossing fingers*

Also updated the second 'Overclocking' post of the Club with this info


----------



## Kmac_17

Can i join plse

P8z68-v pro

Thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kmac_17;13925916*
> Can i join plse
> 
> P8z68-v pro
> 
> Thanks


Welcome to the Club mate







I'll add you in a moment


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13925893*
> Ahh, you live in Spain.. No wonder it's hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even here, far North in Norway, we have had sun and over 20c + in the Shadow the past days. Pretty uncommon here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm testing lower Vcore on my Sandy now, using increased VCCIO volts. Hope it works! Maybe my 2500K wasn't that bad after all! *crossing fingers*
> 
> Also updated the second 'Overclocking' post of the Club with this info


Yeah, it is really hot in here, in the shadow it it's been 30-31ºC in the past days, which is horrible.

My 2600k seems to be good, so far I have done following Overclocks;

4.6Ghz @ 1.28v
4.7Ghz @ 1.31v
4.8Ghz @ 1.34v

But my cooler is not as good to keep up the temps at 4.7 or 4.8 now in summer with [email protected] they reach up to 74-75ºC, which doesn't make me feel safe.









Wish this cooler was better, but I don't want to replace it, looks very good with my GPU's and my case.









PS: Feel free to add me on Steam; kcuestag


----------



## wermad

I have success now, but my log-in password has gone

At least I can get out of sleep and I'm running 4.8 w/ speedstep.

edit: never mind, I figured it out


----------



## dave12

I just saw that there is a new beta (1606), and I'm running 1502. The release notes look promising in a general sense. Has anyone had any improvements from installing these?


----------



## Kmac_17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kmac_17;13925916*
> Can i join plse
> 
> P8z68-v pro
> 
> Thanks


Sorry, added a pic


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kmac_17;13928243*
> Sorry, added a pic


Added a link behind your nick in the members list







Nice looking system









btw: here is where you add you're system details. So you don't need to make it as a signature


----------



## Thogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dave12;13926313*
> I just saw that there is a new beta (1606), and I'm running 1502. The release notes look promising in a general sense. Has anyone had any improvements from installing these?


The only problem i had since i updated to it, was my internal sound has distortion and sounds very low quality.
I've tried older drivers, different OS installation, windows settings, and bios settings and the problem still occurs.
That's just me, so i doubt it will happen to anyone else lol.


----------



## 4x4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dave12;13926313*
> I just saw that there is a new beta (1606), and I'm running 1502. The release notes look promising in a general sense. Has anyone had any improvements from installing these?


I have the vanilla, not the pro, but I'm on the 1608 bios that were released at the same time. No difference for me with overclock or any issues with it.


----------



## dave12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thogar;13928412*
> The only problem i had since i updated to it, was my internal sound has distortion and sounds very low quality.
> I've tried older drivers, different OS installation, windows settings, and bios settings and the problem still occurs.
> That's just me, so i doubt it will happen to anyone else lol.


This is with the onboard sound?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4x4n;13928570*
> I have the vanilla, not the pro, but I'm on the 1608 bios that were released at the same time. No difference for me with overclock or any issues with it.


Thanks. I saw in the notes there was some business about enhanced SATA and PCI compatibility and thought there may be some value in flashing. Seems no.


----------



## NoCardsHereAgain

Sign me up. I just got this build up & running & I didnt have a bit of trouble after reading the many post's in this thread. It is really invaluable information. Except I did click on somthing that started an over clock,







but I defaulted bios to go back till I read more & know what im doing. But cudos to all!!


----------



## Thogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dave12;13928920*
> This is with the onboard sound?


Yes, I was going to upgrade to a card anyways but it bothers me that it happened.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoCardsHereAgain;13928927*
> Sign me up. I just got this build up & running & I didnt have a bit of trouble after reading the many post's in this thread. It is really invaluable information. Except I did click on somthing that started an over clock,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I defaulted bios to go back till I read more & know what im doing. But cudos to all!!


Hi, and welcome







I will sign you up, but need to know what motherboard?









Edit: Found it


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13929362*
> Just out of curiosity, why are we ELITE Members?


Because you are the owners of ASUS ELITE boards, and are members of the OCN, and last but not least, this Club


----------



## nawon72

.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13929420*
> I didn't know my these are "ELITE" mobos. Where does it say that


Well, don't you think so?









If not, I can make a new list for 'regular' members. If you don't wanna be an ELITE Member that is


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13929448*
> Well, don't you think so?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not, I can make a new list for 'regular' members. If you don't wanna be an ELITE Member that is


I honestly don't think they are "ELITE". But everyone has a different opinion.

If i was a "regular" member i would stand out more since I would be the first and only one So i wouldnt mind being put in my own group:laughings


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13929839*
> I honestly don't think they are "ELITE". But everyone has a different opinion.
> 
> If i was a "regular" member i would stand out more since I would be the first and only one So i wouldnt mind being put in my own group:laughings


It's for fun man







Can't hurt if it says ****THE ELITE Members****


----------



## roboz

When I press F12 in Bios, I get a message that says "please choose USB Flash Drive". I have it checked on the main EZ screen. It has the EUFI logo on it. But I don't get a screen shot. Nothing happens.

What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Yvese

Hmm I have a bit of an issue.

I started OCing and 4.5ghz is my target. I've set the voltage and turbo ratio and I've got it to boot into windows. However coretemp and my windows gadget still says that my CPU is still at 3.4ghz with a VID of 1.35. Heck windows itself when I go under system properties still says I'm at stock.

On the other hand, CPu-Z says I'm at 4.5ghz with a voltage of 1.26. Which do I believe?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yvese*


Hmm I have a bit of an issue.

I started OCing and 4.5ghz is my target. I've set the voltage and turbo ratio and I've got it to boot into windows. However coretemp and my windows gadget still says that my CPU is still at 3.4ghz with a VID of 1.35. Heck windows itself when I go under system properties still says I'm at stock.

On the other hand, CPu-Z says I'm at 4.5ghz with a voltage of 1.26. Which do I believe?


That is perfectly normal. Same here.

CPU-Z shows the actual clocks and Vcore.


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13930594*
> That is perfectly normal. Same here.
> 
> CPU-Z shows the actual clocks and Vcore.


Odd indeed!

I'm currently testing at 1.26v. I think that's a pretty good vcore for 4.5ghz if it's stable


----------



## noshibby

add me into this club I have the p8z68-v pro


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noshibby*


add me into this club I have the p8z68-v pro


Welcome to the Club mate







I'll add you in a moment


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yvese*


Odd indeed!

I'm currently testing at 1.26v. I think that's a pretty good vcore for 4.5ghz if it's stable










That would be damn good, IF it's stable.


----------



## wimcle

Here is my ASUS P8P67Deluxe build:

4.6Ghz at 1.32v, hits 60C 30min into a prime95 blend (ain't complaining)


----------



## Yvese

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


That would be damn good, IF it's stable.


Well I got a BSOD about 20m into it. Upped it to 1.28 and so far it's stable after an hour.

Crossing my fingers


----------



## roboz

Please add me to the club.


----------



## xira

For clarification: I'm using offset voltage mode with the minimum amount (+0.005v). So the way it works is VID + offset or am I missing something? I'm using the minimal amount for 4.4GHz and my voltage seems to be pretty high at least compared to some better binned chips, but did 4.7/4.8 fine without PLL at 1.38-1.4V fine so I'm a bit perplexed.

Also at 70f ambient I'm getting 28-29c idle WITH Speed step enabled. Should it be lower? Load is 55-60c


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roboz;13932191*
> Please add me to the club.


Fill in your Rig details here


----------



## roboz

Is this OK?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roboz;13939698*
> Is this OK?


Hello mate







Yes, that will do







Welcome to the Club







I'll add you in a moment


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *roboz*


Is this OK?


looking good bud


----------



## SethCohen

Hey guys.. I wanted to ask how good does ASUS P8P67-M (vanilla) perform in OCing?
The CPU is i5 2500k! How much can I hit without changing the voltage and with a good cooler(air)? Would 4.3GHZ be any problem here?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SethCohen*


Hey guys.. I wanted to ask how good does ASUS P8P67-M (vanilla) perform in OCing?
The CPU is i5 2500k! How much can I hit without changing the voltage and with a good cooler(air)? Would 4.3GHZ be any problem here?


should be doable. Most if not all the p67 mobos will get that cpu above 4ghz+ no problem.


----------



## SethCohen

I know that this is ASUS related topic, but what do you guys think..
which one would be the better choice:
ASUS P8P67-M (vanilla)
or
ASrock P67 Pro#
?


----------



## NoCardsHereAgain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Hi, and welcome







I will sign you up, but need to know what motherboard?









Edit: Found it










I think you have me list in the p8z68 & not the p8z68 v pro according to color...i payed $20 more for that badge







thanks for adding me


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoCardsHereAgain*


I think you have me list in the p8z68 & not the p8z68 v pro according to color...i payed $20 more for that badge







thanks for adding me










Fixed







Yesterday your profile only showed /P8PZ68-V, that's why


----------



## Frank31uk

Any chance I can be a member of this club ? I have the P8P67 vanilla chipset


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frank31uk*


Any chance I can be a member of this club ? I have the P8P67 vanilla chipset


Hello mate, welcome to OCN












Fill in your Rig details here


----------



## OnetwoPi

I'm in with a P8Z68-V Pro


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OnetwoPi*


I'm in with a P8Z68-V Pro










Welcome to the Club







*Added*


----------



## roboz

I had a topic before and no on answered.

Has anyone been able to get a screen shot of Bios to a USB drive.

I keep getting the message"Please select USB drive".

I do - and nothing happens when I press F12.

I have tried 3 different drives and all are formatted FAT32

Am I doing anything wrong?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *roboz*


I had a topic before and no on answered.

Has anyone been able to get a screen shot of Bios to a USB drive.

I keep getting the message"Please select USB drive".

I do - and nothing happens when I press F12.

I have tried 3 different drives and all are formatted FAT32

Am I doing anything wrong?


Works here








Fat32


----------



## Frank31uk

Thanks for adding me.

Hoping someone can help me out seeing as ive only had my new build for 3 days now.
I have OC my 2500k to 4.5Ghz and set voltage in BIOS to 1.290v Manual. As soon as I drop the voltage slightly I get a BSOD not long after running Prime95. The error code is 0x00000124. Im not very experienced at OC a PC so please bear with me, lol.
My temps stay under 63c on load and idle around 30-35c dependant on ambient temp.
Im happy at 4.5Ghz and have not tried for 4.6 yet. I just want to make sure my PC is stable for 24/7 use. If there is any way of lowering the voltage through tweaking something id be interested to know. 
Im very happy with my P8P67 chipset and super fast Processor


----------



## wermad

I'm still experiencing the sleep issues. It only works if I'm on the stock clocks. I've tried all the suggestions. Should I rma?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13943241*
> I'm still experiencing the sleep issues. It only works if I'm on the stock clocks. I've tried all the suggestions. Should I rma?


I don't think any of us can use sleep









And iirc I read, this issue will most likely be fixed with a Bios update


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13943676*
> I don't think any of us can use sleep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And iirc I read, this issue will most likely be fixed with a Bios update


Thanks achilees, i've been reading quite a few forums and its a widespread/common issue. Is intel or the mb manufacturers at play here? Both in fualt and fix as I've heard its not just Asus boards.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13943895*
> Thanks achilees, i've been reading quite a few forums and its a widespread/common issue. Is intel or the mb manufacturers at play here? Both in fault and fix as I've heard its not just Asus boards.


np









When I tried it caused chaos and I ended up not only re-setting the cmos, but re-installing Windows as well








So I won't do that again









Oh well, as long as it's 100% in Windows. I can put up with strange quirks on a new chip-set


----------



## 4x4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank31uk;13943144*
> Thanks for adding me.
> 
> Hoping someone can help me out seeing as ive only had my new build for 3 days now.
> I have OC my 2500k to 4.5Ghz and set voltage in BIOS to 1.290v Manual. As soon as I drop the voltage slightly I get a BSOD not long after running Prime95. The error code is 0x00000124. Im not very experienced at OC a PC so please bear with me, lol.
> My temps stay under 63c on load and idle around 30-35c dependant on ambient temp.
> Im happy at 4.5Ghz and have not tried for 4.6 yet. I just want to make sure my PC is stable for 24/7 use. If there is any way of lowering the voltage through tweaking something id be interested to know.
> Im very happy with my P8P67 chipset and super fast Processor


You are right about where most chips start to need a good voltage bump. To get 4.6 I would guess you'll need to go to 1.325 or so. You just have to keep upping voltage until you get it stable.


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13933050*
> For clarification: I'm using offset voltage mode with the minimum amount (+0.005v). So the way it works is VID + offset or am I missing something? I'm using the minimal amount for 4.4GHz and my voltage seems to be pretty high at least compared to some better binned chips, but did 4.7/4.8 fine without PLL at 1.38-1.4V fine so I'm a bit perplexed.
> 
> Also at 70f ambient I'm getting 28-29c idle WITH Speed step enabled. Should it be lower? Load is 55-60c


----------



## 4x4n

It also depends on where you have LLC. For me, 4.7 LLC on ultra high I only need +.20 offset, but if I have LLC on medium, I need + 1.10 to get the same voltage at load. As for your idle temps, I've never seen mine below 28-30 with speedstep. Plus, the sensors aren't that accurate at idle anyway.


----------



## tubers

Excuse me guys.. I have a *V PRO*.. whenever I *change the BIOS fan settings* (other than *"standard"*).. My CPU doesn *NOT downclock nor downvolt* when idle









How can I fix this other than just leaving it to manual?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank31uk;13943144*
> Thanks for adding me.
> 
> Hoping someone can help me out seeing as ive only had my new build for 3 days now.
> I have OC my 2500k to 4.5Ghz and set voltage in BIOS to 1.290v Manual. As soon as I drop the voltage slightly I get a BSOD not long after running Prime95. The error code is 0x00000124. Im not very experienced at OC a PC so please bear with me, lol.
> My temps stay under 63c on load and idle around 30-35c dependant on ambient temp.
> Im happy at 4.5Ghz and have not tried for 4.6 yet. I just want to make sure my PC is stable for 24/7 use. If there is any way of lowering the voltage through tweaking something id be interested to know.
> Im very happy with my P8P67 chipset and super fast Processor


your BSOD usually means you need to add vcore. at 4.5 ghz 1.290 is kinda low. run your p95 overnight and see if it will be stable at 1.290v. if it remains stable overnight, let it run 24 hrs. if it holds, man, that's awesome.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13933050*
> For clarification: I'm using offset voltage mode with the minimum amount (+0.005v). So the way it works is VID + offset or am I missing something? I'm using the minimal amount for 4.4GHz and my voltage seems to be pretty high at least compared to some better binned chips, but did 4.7/4.8 fine without PLL at 1.38-1.4V fine so I'm a bit perplexed.
> 
> Also at 70f ambient I'm getting 28-29c idle WITH Speed step enabled. Should it be lower? Load is 55-60c


i guess your LLC is at extreme? like 4x4n said, you may need to play with LLC to bring your vcore down.


----------



## Inverse

Wouldn't mind joining this club.









Proud Evo owner~ and yay for Indigo. I love purple hues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13943241*
> I'm still experiencing the sleep issues. It only works if I'm on the stock clocks. I've tried all the suggestions. Should I rma?


Sleep will not work for me if PLL Overtvoltage is set to Enable. Asus said that if this feature is on, Sleep cannot work by design. This was by an Asus rep on a newegg comment on the pro board. The reason it works on default for you is because it's disabled by default. Try shutting it off and seeing if it works.


----------



## Telstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank31uk;13943144*
> Thanks for adding me.
> 
> Hoping someone can help me out seeing as ive only had my new build for 3 days now.
> I have OC my 2500k to 4.5Ghz and set voltage in BIOS to 1.290v Manual. As soon as I drop the voltage slightly I get a BSOD not long after running Prime95. The error code is 0x00000124. Im not very experienced at OC a PC so please bear with me, lol.
> My temps stay under 63c on load and idle around 30-35c dependant on ambient temp.
> Im happy at 4.5Ghz and have not tried for 4.6 yet. I just want to make sure my PC is stable for 24/7 use. If there is any way of lowering the voltage through tweaking something id be interested to know.
> Im very happy with my P8P67 chipset and super fast Processor


It is a nice cpu and i think it needs all 1.29 do be stable at 4.5ghz.
Personally I would keep it that way, but if u wanna try higher you have to raise the vcore.
Lowering the vcore wont make the system more stable







(only the opposite). To test stability use prime, linx, 3dmark and just use if for a couple of days at least normally. If it never bsod, then it's stable.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frank31uk*


Any chance I can be a member of this club ? I have the P8P67 vanilla chipset


Welcome to the Club







*Added*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Inverse*


Wouldn't mind joining this club.









Proud Evo owner~ and yay for Indigo. I love purple hues.

Sleep will not work for me if PLL Overtvoltage is set to Enable. Asus said that if this feature is on, Sleep cannot work by design. This was by an Asus rep on a newegg comment on the pro board. The reason it works on default for you is because it's disabled by default. Try shutting it off and seeing if it works.


Welcome







*Add you in a minute*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I'm still experiencing the sleep issues. It only works if I'm on the stock clocks. I've tried all the suggestions. Should I rma?










Sleep work in my ASUS P8P67 PRO when Internal PLL Overvoltage is Disabled. It may be some problems unique to the WS Revolution you're experiencing.


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:



your BSOD usually means you need to add vcore. at 4.5 ghz 1.290 is kinda low. run your p95 overnight and see if it will be stable at 1.290v. if it remains stable overnight, let it run 24 hrs. if it holds, man, that's awesome.


Well at first I was using AUTO voltage and my CPU was using 1.312v which I thought was rather high for a 4.5Ghz OC. So instead I switched my vcore to manual and started with 1.300v. System was stable after several hrs of Prime95. I continued lowering my vcore in BIOS until I got down to 1.285v. After 10 mins of Prime I got a BSOD. So I upped my voltage then to 1.290v which is were I am now and so far so good but I do have to run Prime now for several hours to see if im stable at this voltage. If not I will slowly continue to raise my vcore until im stable.

Quote:



It is a nice cpu and i think it needs all 1.29 do be stable at 4.5ghz.
Personally I would keep it that way, but if u wanna try higher you have to raise the vcore.
Lowering the vcore wont make the system more stable (only the opposite). To test stability use prime, linx, 3dmark and just use if for a couple of days at least normally. If it never bsod, then it's stable.


Yes I am thinking on keeping it at 4.5Ghz but at the same time would be interested to see how far I can go until I start hitting 1.4v which for me would be the maximum.
I understand that anything over 4.5 requires a few more settings being changed in BIOS.

I do have another question. Seeing I have set my CPU as manual vcore at 1.290v I notice it continues to run at this voltage in windows even when the system is idle. I do have Speedstep enabled and expected the vcore to drop down when speed drops down. So would I be right in saying I would have to set my voltage using the Offset option in order to have my vcore lower and raise when under load? Just seems a bit silly to be pumping higher volts through the Processor when my computer isnt doing anything and doe not require them!?. Am I being dumb guys..lol

Quote:



Welcome to the Club *Added*


Thanks Turrican


----------



## 4x4n

That's the disadvantage of using manual vcore. If you want the voltage to downclock, you need to use auto + offset. A combination of where you have LLC and offset should get you just about the same voltage as you have now.


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:



That's the disadvantage of using manual vcore. If you want the voltage to downclock, you need to use auto + offset. A combination of where you have LLC and offset should get you just about the same voltage as you have now.


So Offset is clearly better than Manual then. I did however read (not sure it it was on this forum) about a bug with using the Offset and being careful to make sure the Offset is set at the correct numbers because some guy said about his Offset automatically changing and almost booting with a very high Offset. That worried me about using that setting.


----------



## Thogar

This just gets better and better with this integrated audio trash.
I just woke up and now i have no audio from my rear port (green).
I plugged in headphones to the front headphone port to make sure it wasn't my sound system, and all of the sudden the sound works out the back, and no audio comes from the headphones








I opened up the realtek manager, which i don't use, it thinks that headphones are plugged in when not, and it thinks the mic is plugged in and the headphones arent when the headphones are plugged in.
However it detects that the rear port is always plugged in, unless i unplug it of course.
I've messed with the settings, disable all that auto popup crap, so i'm just going to leave a jack always plugged in and not even bother with sweeping/reinstalling.
I can't wait to get a dedicated card, this is garbage lol.

Edit: OKAY WTH, now my audio is clear as a bell with the front port detection desync?
I used to have distortion with low quality sound, and now its fine?
I just unplugged the whole front panel plug from my motherboard and it thinks that headphones are plugged into it still, so its not my front panel at all.


----------



## Nethermir

wow sorry to hear you are having issues with the mobo thogar, i hope you find a simple solution for that.

@frank31uk: i think that's the bug when changing profiles. you just need to double check your settings before saving. (this is posted on the first page) http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post13493195

also, i found something nice today, i was using high llc and +0.040 offset to have a stable 4.5 ghz. i went to ultra high llc with +0.015 and i was able to go up to 4.6, 8 hrs stable. and now going for 4.7, running p95 for almost 3 hrs now. i wanna see how long this will go.


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:



@frank31uk: i think that's the bug when changing profiles. you just need to double check your settings before saving. (this is posted on the first page) http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post13493195


Thank you Nethermir. That was the post I read. Im going to have a go at using that +offset method later as opposed to manual. And I will double check my settings before saving my OC profile. Well done on your 4.6 OC and best of luck with 4.7! What voltage are you using for the 4.7 m8?


----------



## tembok_besi

how safe clock i5 2500k with CM Hyper 212+??


----------



## Inverse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tembok_besi;13953548*
> how safe clock i5 2500k with CM Hyper 212+??


I'm using a Zalman 9700NT and getting 4.8ghz with 70-75c on load with 1.34. :3

The CM Hyper 212+ is a MUCH better cooler than mine. XD

I think that should give ya a hint. Don't expect Megahalem level of performance tho. :3


----------



## wermad

pll overvoltage is disabled,
speedstep is disabled,
c sates disabled.

I've tried all these options, non of them work. Apparently its a flaw that a lot of p67 mb owners know about when you try to oc your mb. I've been trying to get a hold of asus chat support to see what their input is. If it is the mb, I'll just have to rma w/ newegg.


----------



## NineteenEleven

anyone know if this ram kit will work with the p8p67 evo? its not on the qualified vendor list on ASUS webpage, i dont have the manual handy.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231405&cm_re=g.skill_12gb-_-20-231-405-_-Product


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NineteenEleven;13953777*
> anyone know if this ram kit will work with the p8p67 evo? its not on the qualified vendor list on ASUS webpage, i dont have the manual handy.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231405&cm_re=g.skill_12gb-_-20-231-405-_-Product


That's a *"Triple Channel Kit"!* so that's probably why they don't list it









You need Dual Channel DDR3


----------



## NineteenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13954325*
> That's a *"Triple Channel Kit"!* so that's probably why they don't list it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need Dual Channel DDR3


thanks!

so i guess the most ram we can get is 8gb?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NineteenEleven;13954390*
> thanks!
> 
> so i guess the most ram we can get is 8gb?


You can also use 4x4GB RAM. Or 4x8GB. 8GB modules is not in sale yet, as far as I know. So max right now is 16GB I believe.


----------



## NineteenEleven

ok, well i got 2 of these

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NineteenEleven;13954810*
> ok, well i got 2 of these
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428


I'm sure you'll be happy with those









I see in your sig that you've got 6GB Corsair mem listed? Is this something that came from a 1366 setup you've had before? 3x2GB?


----------



## NineteenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13954851*
> I'm sure you'll be happy with those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see in your sig that you've got 6GB Corsair mem listed? Is this something that came from a 1366 setup you've had before? 3x2GB?


i got it used, and rather cheap. then i realized i would like to have more than 6gb.


----------



## tembok_besi

hey, i got warning from Asus Ai Suite. that says warning 12v, 24,56v this bug or what???


----------



## NoCardsHereAgain

Quick question. I did a mild over clock @ 4.3 ghz now when I boot the computer. It starts up spins fans I see the board lights do a check then it shuts down briefly then starts right back & goes to windows. It does this on a cold boot & doesnt on a restart. It doesnt take long to do all this but it does appear that it see's the over clock then restarts to do it. Is this common? First time over clocked & Im just toying with it now. Trying to be sure everything is workin as it should.


----------



## DeadlyRampage

check the first and second post of the thread. Did you enable pll overvoltage? when i did that i got the same problem. If you did disable it, its only need if 4.8ghz +


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NineteenEleven*


ok, well i got 2 of these

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231428


If its not to late to cancel your order, you can get the model up from the one you chose for only $75.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tembok_besi*


hey, i got warning from Asus Ai Suite. that says warning 12v, 24,56v this bug or what???


If it was for a split second, then i would say it is likely a bug. Ive had some problems with AI Suite myself as shown below.


----------



## NoCardsHereAgain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadlyRampage*


check the first and second post of the thread. Did you enable pll overvoltage? when i did that i got the same problem. If you did disable it, its only need if 4.8ghz +


Thanks ive read those before when i didnt have the problem & used those posts to help with the double boot with the marvell & jm controllers but I didnt think about checking again now that i do have that problem







thanks !!! heading to bed but im sure that will take care of it.









Yep disabled pll & worked like a charm


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13945141*
> your BSOD usually means you need to add vcore. at 4.5 ghz 1.290 is kinda low. run your p95 overnight and see if it will be stable at 1.290v. if it remains stable overnight, let it run 24 hrs. if it holds, man, that's awesome.
> 
> i guess your LLC is at extreme? like 4x4n said, you may need to play with LLC to bring your vcore down.


LLC is on normal.

edit: was actually on auto, but normal provided the same results


----------



## NewYears1978

Hey all! Nice big club here.

I recently (2 days ago) built myself a new system and I need some OC assistance. I previously had an E8400 3.0 OC'd to 4.0 but I didn't have to change any voltages or anything else but the FSB to achieve that so I need a little help here.

I built a i2500k on a P8Z68-V Pro.

I don't need a crazy overclock, maybe 4.0 - 4.5? Can someone walk me through what to change.

I use a Hyper 212+ for reference, with a Graphite 600T case, very cool in there.


----------



## Twinkadink

Hey! New here but I have the Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard and just curious to see if I could join!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewYears1978;13961551*
> Hey all! Nice big club here.
> 
> I recently (2 days ago) built myself a new system and I need some OC assistance. I previously had an E8400 3.0 OC'd to 4.0 but I didn't have to change any voltages or anything else but the FSB to achieve that so I need a little help here.
> 
> I built a i2500k on a P8Z68-V Pro.
> 
> I don't need a crazy overclock, maybe 4.0 - 4.5? Can someone walk me through what to change.
> 
> I use a Hyper 212+ for reference, with a Graphite 600T case, very cool in there.


There are plenty of very helpful guides in the second post of this thread. But one that isn't in there, and i found the most helpful to get started is located here:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-general/910467-ultimate-sandy-bridge-oc-guide-p67a.html

If you have any problems while using those guides, do a quick search and if there isn't a solution you can post it here or start a new thread.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Twinkadink*


Hey! New here but I have the Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard and just curious to see if I could join!










Welcome to the Club







I'll add you in a moment









The 1704 bios for the P8P67 Vanilla, PRO and EVO has shown up on the FTP servers:

Vanilla: ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67/
PRO: ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67_PRO/
EVO: ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67_EVO/


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frank31uk*


Thank you Nethermir. That was the post I read. Im going to have a go at using that +offset method later as opposed to manual. And I will double check my settings before saving my OC profile. Well done on your 4.6 OC and best of luck with 4.7! What voltage are you using for the 4.7 m8?


i have a stupid chip so at 4.7 i am already pulling 1.368V~1.384V something, ultra high llc, and it still failed after 11 hrs







a few more tweaks will probably stabilize it but i dont plan on pushing it any further. i dont want my volts hitting 1.39 and above


----------



## NoCardsHereAgain

Still show a PCI Simple Communications Controller driver not installed, according to device manager. Anyone know what this is?


----------



## NewYears1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;13967707*
> There are plenty of very helpful guides in the second post of this thread. But one that isn't in there, and i found the most helpful to get started is located here:
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-general/910467-ultimate-sandy-bridge-oc-guide-p67a.html
> 
> If you have any problems while using those guides, do a quick search and if there isn't a solution you can post it here or start a new thread.


I've read those guides..the problem is I can't find good specific info for the Z68 board.

There are so many auto OC stuff built into this board and bios that I get confused. Such as the Digi+VRM stuff. Should I change stuff in here to possibly get more GPU OC as well as my normal OC.

That's just one of many questions. Right now I simply use the auto OC button but it seems like I should be able to get a much higher OC (it only OC'd it to like 4.4, the next step up got a BSOD)

Just not sure where to start..I read all the info in this post and the guide you posted but still lost as to specifics on this board. I don't want to fry it







New to OCing..had only previously OC'd one board before and it was my E8400 from 3.0 to 4.0 which I did without having to modify any voltages.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoCardsHereAgain;13973068*
> Still show a PCI Simple Communications Controller driver not installed, according to device manager. Anyone know what this is?


For the PCI Simple Communications Controller issue, you need to download the Intel Management Engine Interface in the ASUS website, under utilities.

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68V_PRO/#download


----------



## gt3911

Hi,

I'm new here, but would like to join this club, my board is in my sig....

I have the issues stated in post two, so a great resource this is in my first 2 minutes, I need to turn off the pll, and Jmicron / marvell controller... seems a shame, are we expecting a fix here or just ignore it forever....

I have a lot to learn, this board scares the hell out of me - I've upgraded from a Socket A 3200amd LOL, oh how things change!

While I'm here does anyone know the rating of CHA_FAN2? I brought this up here...


----------



## NewYears1978

Youch, my GPU hits temps of 90-92 at max load..this sure seems a bit high. I added two 120mm fans on the side panel to blow cool air directly to the GPU but it made no difference.

I don't want to run the GPU fan at 100% (too loud).

Wonder if that temp is too highand what I can do.

Ahh off topic, sorry!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gt3911;13975734*
> Hi,
> 
> I'm new here, but would like to join this club, my board is in my sig....
> 
> I have the issues stated in post two, so a great resource this is in my first 2 minutes, I need to turn off the pll, and Jmicron / marvell controller... seems a shame, are we expecting a fix here or just ignore it forever....
> 
> I have a lot to learn, this board scares the hell out of me - I've upgraded from a Socket A 3200amd LOL, oh how things change!
> 
> While I'm here does anyone know the rating of CHA_FAN2? I brought this up here...


Welcome to the Club mate!







I'll add you in a moment







Have a nice day


----------



## tomasrs4

Hello all P8P67 owners,

Recently i bought P8P67 PRO REV 3.1 motherboard and i have problems with corsair 2x2gb 1600mhz ram CMX4GX3M2A1600C9. One module refuses to work, the other one works perfectly. The problem is not with ram, because i tested them on my friends computer and ram worked fine, also I took his 1333mhz kingston ram and surprisingly it worked fine on my P8P67 PRO 3.1 board... What do i do, where's the problem??

By the way, i ran the memok! test, i cleared the cmos and one time computer successfully booted with both modules, but when i changed frequency to 1600mhz in bios, PC wouldn't boot again and now even clearing the cmos doesn't help.

And is it really only one BIOS release till today for this motherboard??


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomasrs4;13979512*
> Hello all P8P67 owners,
> 
> Recently i bought P8P67 PRO REV 3.1 motherboard and i have problems with corsair 2x2gb 1600mhz ram CMX4GX3M2A1600C9. One module refuses to work, the other one works perfectly. The problem is not with ram, because i tested them on my friends computer and ram worked fine, also I took his 1333mhz kingston ram and surprisingly it worked fine on my P8P67 PRO 3.1 board... What do i do, where's the problem??
> 
> By the way, i ran the memok! test, i cleared the cmos and one time computer successfully booted with both modules, but when i changed frequency to 1600mhz in bios, PC wouldn't boot again and now even clearing the cmos doesn't help.
> 
> And is it really only one BIOS release till today for this motherboard??


unplug the power cord and take the battery out for a couple mins, it's a sure way of clearing the cmos. Then try with one stick of ram and if needed set the stock settings for it before adding the second stick. Have you followed the manual on which slots you shoud be using? I'm using the 2nd and 4th as instructed by the manual.


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13979613*
> unplug the power cord and take the battery out for a couple mins, it's a sure way of clearing the cmos. Then try with one stick of ram and if needed set the stock settings for it before adding the second stick. Have you followed the manual on which slots you shoud be using? I'm using the 2nd and 4th as instructed by the manual.


I tried all that, the problem is that my motherboard just hates one module of those ram, because no way i can get it to boot - red led lights continuosly, the other module boots perfectly even when set to 1600mhz, i just dont get it














The module cant be faulty or can it ? Because on my friends PC it works perfectly. And yes im using 2nd and 4th slots, and 2nd when only one module is inserted.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomasrs4;13979716*
> I tried all that, the problem is that my motherboard just hates one module of those ram, because no way i can get it to boot - red led lights continuosly, the other module boots perfectly even when set to 1600mhz, i just dont get it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The module cant be faulty or can it ? Because on my friends PC it works perfectly. And yes im using 2nd and 4th slots, and 2nd when only one module is inserted.


sounds like the dimm slot is faulty, it can happen im afraid.


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13979742*
> sounds like the dimm slot is faulty, it can happen im afraid.


But how can it be?? The other module works fine on all slots.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomasrs4;13979782*
> But how can it be?? The other module works fine on all slots.


mmmh







so I presume that the one stick that doesn't work on any of the slots right? if that's the case then it's the stick, unless it works in a different case.

try testing the ram on a different system, run memtest on them and check for errors.

What bios are you running?


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;13979830*
> mmmh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so I presume that the one stick that doesn't work on any of the slots right? if that's the case then it's the stick, unless it works in a different case.
> 
> try testing the ram on a different system, run memtest on them and check for errors.
> 
> What bios are you running?


Yes one stick does not work on any of the slots. I took both of the sticks to my friend and they work fine both on his system, we did not try to boot one stick at a time though.

BIOS is the only one available for REV 3.1 motherboards - 0105, according to asus website.


----------



## Frank31uk

@tomasrs4

Some guy had the same problem as you on a different forum. He fixed his memory issue by reseating his CPU and then both sticks worked. Strange but worth a shot m8.


----------



## IXcrispyXI

ok was about to make a thread about askin which board to get i guess here is perfect







im lookin to pick up an asus 1155 board soon and not sure what to get i was thinking of getting the p8p67 pro but now that i can get a p8z68-v im not sure what to get since they are both similar prices (my current ram and gpu will be swapped over to the new board also)

edit: also whats the difference with the p8p67 pro and the p8p67-m pro?


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank31uk;13980281*
> @tomasrs4
> 
> Some guy had the same problem as you on a different forum. He fixed his memory issue by reseating his CPU and then both sticks worked. Strange but worth a shot m8.


If i were to reseat the cpu would i need new thermal paste? If so then i guess ill wait till i get new heatsink instead of stock for my i5 2500k.


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:


> If i were to reseat the cpu would i need new thermal paste?


Yes use new paste. But good idea to wait until you have the new HS+Fan over that silly stock one you are using atm. Good move.


----------



## NoCardsHereAgain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13975237*
> For the PCI Simple Communications Controller issue, you need to download the Intel Management Engine Interface in the ASUS website, under utilities.
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68V_PRO/#download


Thanks that took care of it


----------



## deadsnow

First off, I'd like to thank the OP (or whoever he got the idea from) for disabling the Marvell SATA controller and the JMB controller because I no longer get the double-boot problem.

But I have another problem, earlier when my RAM was set to 1333MHz, the idle temps of my CPU was about 32C. Then after I realized it was running at the wrong frequency, I adjusted it to 1600MHz. Now my CPU idles at 42C. What should I do?

ps. I have an Asus P8P67 Pro (Rev3.0), an i5 2500K, Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB, and a Corsair A70 (used the 1600rpm fans when I had both 32C and 42C).


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadsnow;13983704*
> First off, I'd like to thank the OP (or whoever he got the idea from) for disabling the Marvell SATA controller and the JMB controller because I no longer get the double-boot problem.
> 
> But I have another problem, earlier when my RAM was set to 1333MHz, the idle temps of my CPU was about 32C. Then after I realized it was running at the wrong frequency, I adjusted it to 1600MHz. Now my CPU idles at 42C. What should I do?
> 
> ps. I have an Asus P8P67 Pro (Rev3.0), an i5 2500K, Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB, and a Corsair A70 (used the 1600rpm fans when I had both 32C and 42C).


Have you checked what volts RAM are running at when you switched over to 1600MHz? Is it 1.5v mem? If so try setting it manually to 1.5v in bios. If that does not help you, try setting Command Rate from AUTO to 2t.

Are you running Vcore at AUTO? Maybe CPU ramped up it's Vcore when you switched over to 1600MHz. We must remember that the memcontroller is inside the CPU.

*munaim1*

Any comments on the new 1704 bios?


----------



## deadsnow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13984245*
> Have you checked what volts RAM are running at when you switched over to 1600MHz? Is it 1.5v mem? If so try setting it manually to 1.5v in bios. If that does not help you, try setting Command Rate from AUTO to 2t.
> 
> Are you running Vcore at AUTO? Maybe CPU ramped up it's Vcore when you switched over to 1600MHz. We must remember that the memcontroller is inside the CPU.


The Vcore was on Offset mode and I have not overclocked anything yet and it said 1.128V if I am not mistaken. The RAM is set at 1.5v and not sure where the Command Rate is found.

Edit: the value in the command mode is 2.. do I need to put 2t?
Edit: the core voltage changes from 1.128V to 1.306V often (no oc).. should I make it a fixed voltage? and what voltage should that be?

built this yesterday so haven't got much time to explore the uefi yet


----------



## grunion

Question...

I'm debating on updating the the newest bios, currently on 1502.

Does the 1502 support screen captures of our bios settings?
If it does, how do I accomplish this?


----------



## Thogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13984792*
> Question...
> 
> I'm debating on updating the the newest bios, currently on 1502.
> 
> Does the 1502 support screen captures of our bios settings?
> If it does, how do I accomplish this?


If i recall correctly you must have a usb drive plugged in to take screens.


----------



## iLLGT3

P8P67 3.0 here.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thogar;13984874*
> If i recall correctly you must have a usb drive plugged in to take screens.


Do you know if 1502 supports it?
What's the cap key, print screen?


----------



## Thogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13984940*
> Do you know if 1502 supports it?
> What's the cap key, print screen?


I don't know why it wouldn't, but maybe someone here knows








I believe F12 is the screenshot key in the EFI.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thogar;13985048*
> I don't know why it wouldn't, but maybe someone here knows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe F12 is the screenshot key in the EFI.


It worked, thanks


----------



## gt3911

Hey, how accurate is the CPU temp reading in the AI Suite?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gt3911;13989734*
> Hey, how accurate is the CPU temp reading in the AI Suite?


edit: i think it is like what munaim1 says, it idles higher on bios


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13984245*
> *munaim1*
> 
> Any comments on the new 1704 bios?


Well updated it yesterday, so far so good. I did notice one thing though, I do understand that the cpu is not generally idling in the bios therefore you get a higher temp reading, somewhere around high 30s low 40s maybe but when I updated the bios to the 1704, the temp reading fell dramatically down to around 30/33c, which is not bad. You could say the 'mini load' in the bios dropped causing a much more accurate temp reading but not sure if that is even possible. Apart from that all is well.


----------



## cmeeks

Anybody having/had Idle BSOD issues? Mine were always happening while internet browsing. I have played with VCCIO, PLL Overvoltage, disabled PLL overvoltage, and now upped my vcore. I found I could actually force a BSOD by running SuperPI 32M the other day.

Using SuperPI 32M as my litmus test, I was eventually able to prevent it by upping my vcore. So far no idle BSODs, but it's only been a couple days. I'm running SuperPI 32M as I'm internet browsing right now! I had this same issue on my previous Gigabyte P67 board and increasing vcore didn't help.

Thoughts/experience/ideas?


----------



## xira

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xira*


For clarification: I'm using offset voltage mode with the minimum amount (+0.005v). So the way it works is VID + offset or am I missing something? I'm using the minimal amount for 4.4GHz and my voltage seems to be pretty high at least compared to some better binned chips, but did 4.7/4.8 fine without PLL at 1.38-1.4V fine so I'm a bit perplexed.

Also at 70f ambient I'm getting 28-29c idle WITH Speed step enabled. Should it be lower? Load is 55-60c


So I guess I have no clue as to what's going on:

I thought perhaps I had a not so greatly binned i7 because with the minimal increment of offset voltage (+0.005) I was getting a voltage of 1.34 @ 4.4GHz (however with vdroop, was only 1.272 under load [confirmed stable])

SO I decided to try manual voltage. I set it at 1.275 [ultra llc and the like]. It had a max voltage of 1.280V and under load was also only 1.272v

What am I doing wrong here?


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tomasrs4*


Hello all P8P67 owners,

Recently i bought P8P67 PRO REV 3.1 motherboard and i have problems with corsair 2x2gb 1600mhz ram CMX4GX3M2A1600C9. One module refuses to work, the other one works perfectly. The problem is not with ram, because i tested them on my friends computer and ram worked fine, also I took his 1333mhz kingston ram and surprisingly it worked fine on my P8P67 PRO 3.1 board... What do i do, where's the problem??

By the way, i ran the memok! test, i cleared the cmos and one time computer successfully booted with both modules, but when i changed frequency to 1600mhz in bios, PC wouldn't boot again and now even clearing the cmos doesn't help.

And is it really only one BIOS release till today for this motherboard??










Tried reseating cpu and problem still remains... The strangest thing is those ram are identical, one works, other does not... You'd say that stick is faulty, but it works fine on my friends PC, we ran some tests, played games, ram is not faulty







Mobo also, because the other stick works perfectly on every slot, even when set to 1600mhz, and also friend's 2x2 kingston 1333mhz works perfectly fine too. It's a total mystery


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tomasrs4*


Tried reseating cpu and problem still remains... The strangest thing is those ram are identical, one works, other does not... You'd say that stick is faulty, but it works fine on my friends PC, we ran some tests, played games, ram is not faulty







Mobo also, because the other stick works perfectly on every slot, even when set to 1600mhz, and also friend's 2x2 kingston 1333mhz works perfectly fine too. It's a total mystery










I'd send back the Ram









What settings did Mem-OK set your Ram??

Oh, and fill in your Rig details here! 
Then it will show in your Sig









Plus, get an Avatar. So others can recognize your posts


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


I'd send back the Ram









What settings did Mem-OK set your Ram??

Oh, and fill in your Rig details here! 
Then it will show in your Sig









Plus, get an Avatar. So others can recognize your posts










But why its ram fault? On my friends system that stick works perfectly.

MemOK does not set anything it just runs that test and after that red led again lights continuosly. The other stick does not need any memOK testing it works just fine.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomasrs4;13993527*
> But why its ram fault? On my friends system that stick works perfectly.
> 
> MemOK does not set anything it just runs that test and after that red led again lights continuosly. The other stick does not need any memOK testing it works just fine.


That mem-ok thing, tests the Ram and sets your Ram settings to settings that work!


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;13993683*
> That mem-ok thing, tests the Ram and sets your Ram settings to settings that work!


I understand that. Im just saying that in my case mem-ok thing does not help. It tests, but nothing happens after that, just red led lights continuosly.


----------



## claymanhb

Just got rid of my gigabyte pos today so count me in.


----------



## tomasrs4

By the way, UEFI bios, asus logo when booting is not full screen, is that supposed to be like this or what??


----------



## Evo X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomasrs4;13998588*
> By the way, UEFI bios, asus logo when booting is not full screen, is that supposed to be like this or what??


Yes, that's normal.


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;13992066*
> So I guess I have no clue as to what's going on:
> 
> I thought perhaps I had a not so greatly binned i7 because with the minimal increment of offset voltage (+0.005) I was getting a voltage of 1.34 @ 4.4GHz (however with vdroop, was only 1.272 under load [confirmed stable])
> 
> SO I decided to try manual voltage. I set it at 1.275 [ultra llc and the like]. It had a max voltage of 1.280V and under load was also only 1.272v
> 
> What am I doing wrong here?


Any ideas? Should I try negative offset perhaps?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claymanhb;13997917*
> Just got rid of my gigabyte pos today so count me in.


Welcome to the Club







I'll add you in a moment


----------



## deadsnow

bah, I guess I'll just have to deal with my temps being a little higher.
My temps reach 78C with my Corsair A70 overclocked to 4GHz and with my memory at 1600MHz. I thought the cooler was better than that. I guess I'll invest in maybe an H80.

Oh yeah, add me to the list please. Got a P8P67 Pro (Rev 3.0). Thanks!


----------



## kidwolf909

Alright guys, I'm trying to OC my 2500K using the offset method on my P8P67-PRO (1704), but it isn't working out.

I've followed this guide.

However, when I boot back into Windows, my CPU will *not* downclock! It just sticks to 4GHz and the load voltage (according to both RealTemp and CPU-Z).

And it's not because there is load being applied because I have let it just sit perfectly still at idle on the desktop where RealTemp reports the load as 1%!

The specific settings that I changed are:

CPU Voltage = Offset Mode
Phase Control = Optimized
LLC = High
Turbo Multi = 40
...that's it!

EIST, C1E, C3, C6 are all enabled!

I have noticed that some people have EPU enabled when using offset, but is this required? I would rather not have more programs than I need playing with my voltage.

At stock, it throttles dynamically like a charm, but as soon as I change the multi, it just sticks to full speed and voltage.

*
Any ideas?*


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


Alright guys, I'm trying to OC my 2500K using the offset method on my P8P67-PRO (1704), but it isn't working out.

I've followed this guide.

However, when I boot back into Windows, my CPU will *not* downclock! It just sticks to 4GHz and the load voltage (according to both RealTemp and CPU-Z).

And it's not because there is load being applied because I have let it just sit perfectly still at idle on the desktop where RealTemp reports the load as 1%!

The specific settings that I changed are:

CPU Voltage = Offset Mode
Phase Control = Optimized
LLC = High
Turbo Multi = 40
...that's it!

EIST, C1E, C3, C6 are all enabled!

I have noticed that some people have EPU enabled when using offset, but is this required? I would rather not have more programs than I need playing with my voltage.

At stock, it throttles dynamically like a charm, but as soon as I change the multi, it just sticks to full speed and voltage.

*
Any ideas?*


From my experience, and what I've heard, you cannot hinder downclocking in these Asus boards. Because, if you disable speedstep, you also disable Turbo.

From my experience, in my ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0, it takes a few minutes before it downclocks after I have entered Windows and stay Idle. However, If I apply load, and go idle again, it will downclock at once when going idle.

Have not tried the 1704 bios yet. Only 1502 and 1606.


----------



## iLLGT3

Alright peeps, happened about 10 minutes ago. You be the judge on what happened here lol and keep in mind, this is my first build.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


From my experience, and what I've heard, you cannot hinder downclocking in these Asus boards. Because, if you disable speedstep, you also disable Turbo.

From my experience, in my ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0, it takes a few minutes before it downclocks after I have entered Windows and stay Idle. However, If I apply load, and go idle again, it will downclock at once when going idle.

Have not tried the 1704 bios yet. Only 1502 and 1606.


Don't worry, I'm not trying to stop it from downclocking. I WANT it to downclock, but it won't.

I'm giving your suggestion of waiting a few minutes for it to throttle down right now.

I mean, I used to run my 1055T at full throttle all the time and didn't care, but now that I'm paying my own rent and electric bill, I would prefer to see those power savings.

I've been sitting at idle desktop for over 6 minutes now and it's not dropping.

*EDIT: Also, I tried this same thing on BIOS 1502 before I updated and still had no luck with downclocking.*


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


Don't worry, I'm not trying to stop it from downclocking. I WANT it to downclock, but it won't.

I'm giving your suggestion of waiting a few minutes for it to throttle down right now.

I mean, I used to run my 1055T at full throttle all the time and didn't care, but now that I'm paying my own rent and electric bill, I would prefer to see those power savings.

I've been sitting at idle desktop for over 6 minutes now and it's not dropping.

*EDIT: Also, I tried this same thing on BIOS 1502 before I updated and still had no luck with downclocking.*


Try checking your Windows Power settings. Usually it works on 'Balanced mode'.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Try checking your Windows Power settings. Usually it works on 'Balanced mode'.


I LOVE YOU!

I can't believe it was that stupid!!!!

I was set to High Performance because... well... it just makes sense.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


I LOVE YOU!

I can't believe it was that stupid!!!!

I was set to High Performance because... well... it just makes sense.


But I've had mine on High Performance and it downlocked before, I think.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


Alright peeps, happened about 10 minutes ago. You be the judge on what happened here lol and keep in mind, this is my first build.


Did you forget to use the motherboard stand offs


----------



## iLLGT3

What are those lol

EDIT: They were already built into the case.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


What are those lol

EDIT: They were already built into the case.


These...










If you had some of these, where they should not be, they could have shortened out your motherboard.


----------



## iLLGT3

They were already built into my Storm Scout case. Just had to place to mobo onto them and use the screws to tighten it down.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


They were already built into my Storm Scout case. Just had to place to mobo onto them and use the screws to tighten it down.


Was you using "all 9 screws" to hold the motherboard


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xira*


For clarification: I'm using offset voltage mode with the minimum amount (+0.005v). So the way it works is VID + offset or am I missing something? I'm using the minimal amount for 4.4GHz and my voltage seems to be pretty high at least compared to some better binned chips, but did 4.7/4.8 fine without PLL at 1.38-1.4V fine so I'm a bit perplexed.

Also at 70f ambient I'm getting 28-29c idle WITH Speed step enabled. Should it be lower? Load is 55-60c


lol for some reason your post keeps getting lost amongst the others.

anyway, im a newbie ocer and i am now as confused as you are







when i only use regular llc or when in auto, that's the only time i see the voltages vary on load. so i guess it is vid + offset. when i ramp up llc, then that's when the volts ramp up to 1.368+ on load, on any llc settings above regular. the only difference is when the cpu idles.

so yeah im confused now too as to what llc is for lol. anyone have a definitive guide?


----------



## iLLGT3

Yeah, every single hole that had a "stand off" near it had a screw in it. A, B, C, D, E, F, J, K, L.

I didn't have any problems last night. Everything ran fine, booted up, restarted, and shut down ok. Just this morning after doing a restart is when everything decided to fvck up lol


----------



## Upgradenut

Hey Guys,
I understand it very easy to identify the REV 3.0., How can I identify the REV3.1 ?
Cheers!


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Upgradenut*


Hey Guys,
I understand it very easy to identify the REV 3.0., How can I identify the REV3.1 ?
Cheers!










On the motherboard box it says REV 3.1









By the way, the newest bios 1704 is released for P8P67 PRO rev 3.0, P8P67 3.0 and 3.1, but why no update for P8P67 PRO 3.1 ???? I need that update soooo much because of ram issues, hoping it would fix it. Maybe the update is expected soon, who knows


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Upgradenut*


Hey Guys,
I understand it very easy to identify the REV 3.0., How can I identify the REV3.1 ?
Cheers!











REV 3.0 â€" NEC USB 3.0 controllers
REV 3.1 â€" ASMedia USB 3.0 controllers
Also, you can differ them from the bios version numbers.


----------



## iLLGT3

I'm gonna return mine and get a refund.. I have $50 in my account since I had forgotten to pay my phone bill. 2500k's and memory are more important.







I'll just rebuy the same one or get a better one when I get paid in 11 days. Sabertooth maybe?


----------



## Alex132

Meh IMO PRO > Sabertooth.
The Sabertooth has a plastic PCB cover and ugly colors, less VRMs and now its suddenly more expensive? Come on.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Has anyone else noticed their PRO board having a "top" PCI x16 slot (closest to back I/O panel) being a cm or so to the right (right as in, towards the front of the case when mobo is mounted) of the two PCI x16 slots below it? I was unable to mount my sig card in the first slot as I could not line up the anchor holes on the card and the back of my 922 without unseating it, so I had to mount it in the 2nd slot. I may just have an anomaly.


----------



## Alex132

That is.... weird. Mine are all in-line and fit perfectly with my 800D's PCIE cover hole slot thingies


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*


Has anyone else noticed their PRO board having a "top" PCI x16 slot (closest to back I/O panel) being a cm or so to the right (right as in, towards the front of the case when mobo is mounted) of the two PCI x16 slots below it? I was unable to mount my sig card in the first slot as I could not line up the anchor holes on the card and the back of my 922 without unseating it, so I had to mount it in the 2nd slot. I may just have an anomaly.


?? Pictures? If so, you should RMA the board


----------



## gt3911

Hey,

So... Firstly let me make it clear, I'm a total noob - all the settings this board has is scary as hell (I just upgraded from a socket A board, its been a while lol)

I had the an issue double posting, it was always twice, but this morning I must have power cycled 5 times, then I got a overclocking has failed error - So I went into BIOS and turned of Internal PLL Overvoltage (it was on auto) it did the trick (for now) slightly worried that I might have just got lucky and tomorrow morning I get caught out again...

Just wondering if there is anything else obvious that I should look out for, I'm essentially just running the optimum loaded settings, which has placed me at a 4430mhz (x42 multiplier) fully loaded 1.312V OR 16.48mhz (16x multi) idling at 1.024V... just kinda nervous that tomorrow I might not get booted


----------



## xira

I'm such an idiot! I should have been using negative offset and playing with llc this entire time! was giving my cpu way too much voltage!
















EDIT: Testing 4.4 @ 1.272-1.280V under load with -0.130 offset using Extreme LLC

EDIT 2: So -0.130 wasn't stable because the idle volts were too low. Any idea how to get the idle volts up without the load volts going up as a result?

Thanks ^^


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xira*


I'm such an idiot! I should have been using negative offset and playing with llc this entire time! was giving my cpu way too much voltage!
















EDIT: Testing 4.4 @ 1.272-1.280V under load with -0.130 offset using Extreme LLC

EDIT 2: So -0.130 wasn't stable because the idle volts were too low. Any idea how to get the idle volts up without the load volts going up as a result?

Thanks ^^


Honestly, if i were you, I would try to leave the LLC on High or Medium and use a positive offset instead. I feel like higher LLC will boost the load temps too much and using the negative offset is what drops the idle voltage down to BSOD levels.


----------



## xira

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


Honestly, if i were you, I would try to leave the LLC on High or Medium and use a positive offset instead. I feel like higher LLC will boost the load temps too much and using the negative offset is what drops the idle voltage down to BSOD levels.


I can't use positive offset. It gives me too much voltage. Honestly the temps are lower because my load voltages are lower. All LLC does is remove the disparity of vdroop which I need. With LLC off entirely the minimal amount of positive offset (+0.005) was giving me 1.34v highest voltage. obviously the load volts was much lower but still. no reason to put that much juice into the chip if it isnt necessary


----------



## henrygale

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*



REV 3.0 â€" NEC USB 3.0 controllers
REV 3.1 â€" ASMedia USB 3.0 controllers
Also, you can differ them from the bios version numbers.


Has anyone bought a P8P67-V Pro recently and gotten REV 3.0? If so, where did you buy it from? I'd prefer the NEC over the ASMedia USB 3.0 controller.


----------



## Crabby654

I actually have a rev 3.0 of the P8P67 Pro I got from Newegg


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xira;14004682*
> I'm such an idiot! I should have been using negative offset and playing with llc this entire time! was giving my cpu way too much voltage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Testing 4.4 @ 1.272-1.280V under load with -0.130 offset using Extreme LLC
> 
> EDIT 2: So -0.130 wasn't stable because the idle volts were too low. Any idea how to get the idle volts up without the load volts going up as a result?
> 
> Thanks ^^


Tried to disable the C3/C6 states?


----------



## xira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14007374*
> Tried to disable the C3/C6 states?


No I haven't. What do the C3 and C6 states do?

Note: I have turbo disabled.


----------



## trippap

My computer contains:
ASUS P8P67 MB
Intel i5 2500 CPU
16GB Corsair RAM
3 WD Black 1TB SATA III HDDs, two configured as RAID1 for data and one for OS
LG Blu-ray burner
LG DVD RW drive
Media card reader
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit OS

I just purchased a Corsair 128GB P128 SSD that I want to use for the OS, and I need advice on how to utilize the 6 SATA ports best to deal with all my SATA devices, and suggestions for how to configure system folders to avoid putting too much stuff on the SSD. I presently plan to use the non-RAID 1TB WD drive as a backup for the RAID1 configuration after I move the OS and other files off that drive.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippap;14007942*
> My computer contains:
> ASUS P8P67 MB
> Intel i5 2500 CPU
> 16GB Corsair RAM
> 3 WD Black 1TB SATA III HDDs, two configured as RAID1 for data and one for OS
> LG Blu-ray burner
> LG DVD RW drive
> Media card reader
> Windows 7 Professional 64-bit OS
> 
> I just purchased a Corsair 128GB P128 SSD that I want to use for the OS, and I need advice on how to utilize the 6 SATA ports best to deal with all my SATA devices, and suggestions for how to configure system folders to avoid putting too much stuff on the SSD. I presently plan to use the non-RAID 1TB WD drive as a backup for the RAID1 configuration after I move the OS and other files off that drive.


Here are two links to help you setup your ssd

http://www.overclock.net/ssd/664738-how-setup-ssd-boot-drive-secondary.html
http://www.overclock.net/ssd/700470-tutorials-real-world-windows-7-ssd.html


----------



## turrican9

Started a new owners Club. So those having Corsair Vengeance mem, feel free to join









***The Official CORSAIR VENGEANCE Owners Club***


----------



## Alex132

Personally really don't like the look of that RAM, would way rather go for Dominator RAM


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xira*


No I haven't. What do the C3 and C6 states do?

Note: I have turbo disabled.


They have something to do with the powersaving/reporting to OS. Some claim that by disabling these, they got rid of the Idle BSOD when Offset Vcore.

I'm testing right now. Trying lower Vcore using Offset, than previous attempts. Actually, when I disabled C3/C6 the CPU can now boot Windows and operate at a considerable lower Vcore than before. Running Blend right now.

CPU still clocks down and adjust down Vcore when Idle.

btw: testing this on the 1704 bios. Flashed to it, before I started experimenting.

Edit: It failed under load at this lower Vcore. However, it seems disabling C3/C6 can get rid of the Idle BSOD problem, for those experiencing it.


----------



## gsa700

Hey, add me in I'll join.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gsa700*


Hey, add me in I'll join.


Welcome







I'll add you in a moment


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


They have something to do with the powersaving/reporting to OS. Some claim that by disabling these, they got rid of the Idle BSOD when Offset Vcore.

I'm testing right now. Trying lower Vcore using Offset, than previous attempts. Actually, when I disabled C3/C6 the CPU can now boot Windows and operate at a considerable lower Vcore than before. Running Blend right now.

CPU still clocks down and adjust down Vcore when Idle.

btw: testing this on the 1704 bios. Flashed to it, before I started experimenting.

Edit: It failed under load at this lower Vcore. However, it seems disabling C3/C6 can get rid of the Idle BSOD problem, for those experiencing it.


Hey man,

What lower vcore is it that you are trying to run? Right now, I'm running 4.5GHz with only 1.28 vcore at load in IBT... max temps of 50/55/58/57 after 20 runs.

LLC - High
PLL OV - Disabled
C3 - Disabled
C6 - Disabled
Offset - (negative) .035 and dropping... still stable through IBT so I'll continue to run it down until it fails.

Testing with prime now.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


Hey man,

What lower vcore is it that you are trying to run? Right now, I'm running 4.5GHz with only 1.28 vcore at load in IBT... max temps of 50/55/58/57 after 20 runs.

LLC - High
PLL OV - Disabled
C3 - Disabled
C6 - Disabled
Offset - (negative) .035 and dropping... still stable through IBT so I'll continue to run it down until it fails.

Testing with prime now.


I have a bad 2500K. So I need about ~1.368v (min: 1.36v) Vcore and LLC at Ultra High in order to be Prime95 Blend stable.

I tried 1.33v Vcore but failed big time. So I'm back to + 0.020v Offset which gives me ~1.368v at 4.5GHz.

btw: 2500K Owners, join my new Club















_* Intel Core i5-2500K/AMD Buttkickers Owners Club *_









Also, a reminder for those who have Vengeance mem, I have started a Club for those








***The Official CORSAIR VENGEANCE Owners Club***


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I have a bad 2500K. So I need about ~1.368v (min: 1.36v) Vcore and LLC at Ultra High in order to be Prime95 Blend stable.

I tried 1.33v Vcore but failed big time. So I'm back to + 0.020v Offset which gives me ~1.368v at 4.5GHz.

btw: 2500K Owners, join my new Club















_* Intel Core i5-2500K/AMD Buttkickers Owners Club *_









Also, a reminder for those who have Vengeance mem, I have started a Club for those








***The Official CORSAIR VENGEANCE Owners Club***


Dang that sucks









Prime95 is a whole different animal though! My OC was rock solid through 20 runs of IBT and then I fired up prime and one worker died within the first test and then BSOD lol

Upped my LLC from high to ultra-high and re-testing now.

Load vcore bounces between 1.304 and 1.312 in prime.

Hoping this is stable because this will be a lovely setting for 24/7 with load temps < 55C on all cores


----------



## Infinite Jest

Is BSOD 101 only related to cpu votlage or can it also mean a lack of gpu vcore voltage?


----------



## gt3911

Hey,

Today I thought I'd experience my first floor-less cold boot as I'd disabled the Internal PLL Overvoltage the day before, unfortunately I still got a double post







Anything else I should be looking for?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gt3911*


Hey,

Today I thought I'd experience my first floor-less cold boot as I'd disabled the Internal PLL Overvoltage the day before, unfortunately I still got a double post







Anything else I should be looking for?


does your system open -> completely die down -> open -> post? or does it go asus screen -> marvell screen -> asus screen?


----------



## giecsar

So my P8P67 Deluxe is finally here. Like I expected, it's pretty awesome, loads of features!
But I was also expecting problems and apparently I have some serious memory issues, I need help!









Initially it all seemed to be fine, I booted into windows and it worked well for a few hours until at one point the system locked up.
I rebooted and it locked up again after only a few minutes.
The reboots after that gave me BSODs right after windows finished loading (MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION).
Now it won't even boot.. nothing appears on the screen, the MemOK LED blinks and the motherboard displays the error code 38. If I press the MemOK button the mobo resets and tests the memory (or at least I hope it does) but I still get error 38 and it won't boot. I've tried installing the memory in many different configurations, and even a single module at a time. I should also mention that nothing is overclocked.
The RAM is Corsair Dominator GT 2x4GB 1866MHz, running at stock 1333MHz..
An ASUS support guy suggested it is possible to boot into UEFI with MemOK without any memory installed and update the BIOS, but that doesn't seem to work either









Any help or even remote suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:


> Today I thought I'd experience my first floor-less cold boot as I'd disabled the Internal PLL Overvoltage the day before, unfortunately I still got a double post Anything else I should be looking for?


Have you tried this...

go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. Start the system up again and hopefully now it wont double post.

Also have you manually adjusted your DRAM timings in the BIOS. That can fix double posts also.


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:


> An ASUS support guy suggested it is possible to boot into UEFI with MemOK without any memory installed and update the BIOS, but that doesn't seem to work either


Sry are you saying you cant get into UEFI to update the BIOS

Or

You have got into the UEFI and updated the BIOS but still not working?

and AFAIK you cannot boot a computer or update the BIOS without a memory stick installed. But you spoke to an ASUS support guy and he should know what he is saying. Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## giecsar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frank31uk*


Sry are you saying you cant get into UEFI to update the BIOS

Or

You have got into the UEFI and updated the BIOS but still not working?

and AFAIK you cannot boot a computer or update the BIOS without a memory stick installed. But you spoke to an ASUS support guy and he should know what he is saying. Can anyone confirm this?


I'm saying I can't get into UEFI. Nothing appears on the screen and at this point there is nothing I can do except press the motberboard's buttons.

Now I did not actually spoke with the support guy, it's the advice he gave to some other person on some other forum (found it while researching the issue on Google...).

I'm desperately looking for ideas because I have no friend that lives close enough to me so that I can test the memory in some other system. Also I do not want to go through the hassle of RMA.


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:


> I'm saying I can't get into UEFI. Nothing appears on the screen and at this point there is nothing I can do except press the motberboard's buttons.


Try removing all the memory modules from the mainboard. Reset the BIOS either using the jumper/battery method. Place 1 stick of memory in the A2 slot on mainboard. Attempt to boot the system now. If you still cant POST then remove that module from the A2 slot and replace it with your other module and try again.
Im doubtful a BIOS update would fix this though because to me and im sry to say this I think it`s pretty likely the Mainboard is faulty









I will post all responses/suggestions regarding your problem in this section Giecsar not to flood the forum with posts m8.

I think it`s highly doubtful that both your sticks of Memory would be faulty so you should be able to POST the computer with one stick and get into BIOS.

Update - Just out of curiosity is the part number of those Corsair Dominator GT sticks you have listed in the QVL section of your motherboard manual? Could it be a fluke your system ran the first time and then you ran into issues because your BIOS is to early to recognise those sticks? Just seems odd how you ever had it working in the first place. Maybe if you could only get into UEFI to update BIOS I guess you stand a chance of fixing your issue. But not even being able to get in UEFI is a real problem.

Update again - Ok your up and running. That is good!! P. 2-23 of the manual indicates AA is an ASL error code which relates to the power management settings. Let me look into that some more but I strongly advise you update your BIOS now.


----------



## giecsar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank31uk;14020850*
> Try removing all the memory modules from the mainboard. Reset the BIOS either using the jumper/battery method. Place 1 stick of memory in the A2 slot on mainboard. Attempt to boot the system now. If you still cant POST then remove that module from the A2 slot and replace it with your other module and try again.
> Im doubtful a BIOS update would fix this though because to me and im sry to say this I think it`s pretty likely the Mainboard is faulty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post all responses/suggestions regarding your problem in this section Giecsar not to flood the forum with posts m8.
> 
> I think it`s highly doubtful that both your sticks of Memory would be faulty so you should be able to POST the computer with one stick and get into BIOS.


Thanks for you reply, I will try your suggestions now.


----------



## giecsar

It seems to be working fine now! (with just one stick in the slot you mentioned)

Question: is the error code "AA" normal ? That's what the motherboard is constantly displaying after the system has fully booted into windows.


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:


> Question: is the error code "AA" normal ? That's what the motherboard is constantly displaying after the system has fully booted into windows.


Happy your up and running again! Are you hearing a continuous beeping noise though? or do you have any other codes flashing up? Also I strongly advise you update your BIOS now. I would not add that 2nd RAM stick until you have updated BIOS and full system stability. Chances are that 2nd stick could well be faulty. Also when you do decide to add the other stick make sure to sit it in slot B2 on motherboard (both the blue slots). You prob know that anyway









EDIT - "AA" apparently is normal for the Deluxe from what I have just read here:-

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/hardware/39557-uefi-bios-error-post-codes.html


----------



## giecsar

Apparently my BIOS is the latest version so there is nothing to update.
I've tested some more and each module seems to be running fine independently in any slot.
My guess is that the mobo doesn't like dual-channel for some reason, will test again with both sticks.

Regarding the error codes yes, a lot of codes flash before "AA" but it's so fast there is really not enough time to read them.


----------



## giecsar

Ok so it is clear now that the modules don't work in dual channel mode regardless of the slots they're in


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar;14022085*
> Ok so it is clear now that the modules don't work in dual channel mode regardless of the slots they're in


Remember to use the latest CPU-Z, or it will not show Dual channel on Sandy systems.


----------



## Alex132

Is there any reason why ASUS recommend us to use slots #2 and #4 instead of #1 and #3?

Not that it matters to me, just wondering.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;14022145*
> Is there any reason why ASUS recommend us to use slots #2 and #4 instead of #1 and #3?
> 
> Not that it matters to me, just wondering.


Good question. On 775 systems they always recommend using slots #1 and #3 for better overclocking.

Probably has something to do with PCB layout/Sandy architecture.

Wonder if same rules goes for other brands too.. ?


----------



## giecsar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14022121*
> Remember to use the latest CPU-Z, or it will not show Dual channel on Sandy systems.


You don't understand, the system doesn't even POST with two sticks installed.


----------



## Alex132

Don't think so, I personally think it doesn't matter which 2 slots you use (1/3 or 2/4) they just said 2/4 because it means that bigger aircoolers will have more space.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar;14022216*
> You don't understand, the system doesn't even POST with two sticks installed.


What RAM?


----------



## giecsar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alex132*


Don't think so, I personally think it doesn't matter which 2 slots you use (1/3 or 2/4) they just said 2/4 because it means that bigger aircoolers will have more space.


I agree with this. It really makes no sense to think that two slots are "better" than the other ones.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alex132*


What RAM?


I already mentioned which RAM I am using... anyway I'll say it again it's Corsair Dominator GT 2x4GB @ 1333MHz (stock).


----------



## Alex132

Have you tried manually setting the timings, voltage and Mhz etc?
Also Dominator GT at 1333Mhz... that's REALLY low for Dom GT's.
Try pushing CL9 and 1600Mhz or higher. Mhz > timings on Intel


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:



Ok so it is clear now that the modules don't work in dual channel mode regardless of the slots they're in


If manually setting the timings and voltage does not work then try reseating the CPU and see if it boots with both modules then. If not then there has to be a fault with mainboard I would think.


----------



## giecsar

To be completely honest I'm out of touch... after using my sig rig (with absolutely no OC capabilities) for 3 years or so I pretty much forgot everything and quite frankly the amount of options in the BIOS of the P8P67 overwhelms me.
I don't know which settings I should change, nor the recommended/optimum timings









Wouldn't loading the XMP profile be sufficient? Or will that require me to manually oveclock the CPU? If that's the case, I don't know how to manually overclock the CPU either.


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:



To be completely honest I'm out of touch... after using my sig rig (with absolutely no OC capabilities) for 3 years or so I pretty much forgot everything and quite frankly the amount of options in the BIOS of the P8P67 overwhelms me.
I don't know which settings I should change, nor the recommended/optimum timings


I think you need to follow this guide to understand the simple concept of changing the DRAM timings and CPU speed within BIOS. It helped me alot!

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overc...beginners.html


----------



## giecsar

Apparently I forgot that the system *WON'T EVEN POST WITH 2 STICKS INSTALLED.*









Clearly a faulty motherboard


----------



## Wabbit16

So today I am going to post off my new-but-trusty Asus P8P67-M Pro motherboard to ASUS to have my faulty PCIe slot looked at. Going to be sitting without a rig for a while, so please bear with me if I post here too often









It still works if I slot my GPU into the second (8x) slot, but it will randomly reboot and is a general PITA to work with so I thought 'hey, let's just get this over with'.


----------



## ocman

EXCELLENT JOB on starting this owners club turrican9!!!


----------



## giecsar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*


So today I am going to post off my new-but-trusty Asus P8P67-M Pro motherboard to ASUS to have my faulty PCIe slot looked at. Going to be sitting without a rig for a while, so please bear with me if I post here too often









It still works if I slot my GPU into the second (8x) slot, but it will randomly reboot and is a general PITA to work with so I thought 'hey, let's just get this over with'.


That sucks, I don't even have the money to ship my mobo right now


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocman;14031241*
> EXCELLENT JOB on starting this owners club turrican9!!!


Thanks man !







Great to hear that from you


----------



## Nethermir

wow sad to hear people having issues with the board. i think the board is awesome, but just plagued with minor issues. hang in there guys


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14034433*
> wow sad to hear people having issues with the board. i think the board is awesome, but just plagued with minor issues. hang in there guys


Mine has not had any problems, other than those those 'bugs' that can be fixed by changing a few bios settings.

And I must say, there have been alot of people posting in this Club, and very few have had any serious problems. So it seems these are excellent motherboards, with a very high quality.


----------



## grunion

FYI

You can keep up with the offset voltage bug, here.

Supposedly fixed with the 1606 bios, but sadly that's not the case.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14036854*
> FYI
> 
> You can keep up with the offset voltage bug, here.
> 
> Supposedly fixed with the 1606 bios, but sadly that's not the case.


I'm using the new 1704 bios. I have not loaded or switched profiles that much though.

This is a minor bug when compared to the ever lasting Gigabyte-boot-loop-cycle problem, that has been going on for ages..


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14036944*
> I'm using the new 1704 bios. I have not loaded or switched profiles that much though.
> 
> This is a minor bug when compared to the ever lasting Gigabyte-boot-loop-cycle problem, that has been going on for ages..


DFI has had the same rolling boot issue for ages, the plus board was supposed to fix that...not.

Rolling boots don't kill procs.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14036976*
> DFI has had the same rolling boot issue for ages, the plus board was supposed to fix that...not.
> 
> Rolling boots don't kill procs.


Still, very annoying. Enough to keep buyers away. We do not have issues of this magnitude with our 1155 ASUS boards. I'm glad to confirm this.


----------



## Infinite Jest

wow damnit. I didn't even realize a new bios was out. I saw it in beta like a week ago so I didn't touch it. Is it worth flashing?

EDIT: Oh damn I have 1502. Should I just go straight to 1704? Also, do you guys usually flash it with a usb drive or some other method?


----------



## cmeeks

I must say I have had no trouble with my Z68 Deluxe. Initially I experienced a few idle BSODs so I fed it a little more vcore and that seems to have done the trick. Other than that, literally nothing! I would be frustrated that there has not been a single BIOS update for my board, but then again I haven't been having any problems.


----------



## turrican9

I've also started something for you i7-2600K owners.








*The Greatness Of The Intel i7-2600K Owners Club*


----------



## henrygale

Is there a sticker on the outside of the P8P67-V Pro board that identifies whether it is REV 3.0 or 3.1?


----------



## tryceo

Anyone know if the board can scale CPU speeds?

Quote:



We have some issues with the processor running at slightly higher clocks than it should have, which in turn skews some of the test results in favor of the P8Z68-V Pro. We have consulted with both ASUS and Intel on this but have not come away with any firm conclusions as how to fix the issue. What it comes down to is that the CPU clock is either running at its idle state of 1.6GHz, or its highest Turbo value of 3.8GHz. There is no scaling between the two clock values. We saw this in the last P67 ASUS motherboard we tested as well. If you leave the BIOS to full defaults, even with Windows 7 running in performance mode, you will see proper Turbo scaling, which we have never seen reach 3.8GHz under any kind of multi-threaded mode. Any changes to the BIOS, such as increasing the DDR3 memory clock to 1600MHz alone (as we test all motherboards) gives us the "3.8GHz" problem.


I really want to make sure that my computer can lower CPU speed when it is not in use.


----------



## capitalj

Haven't had any problems with my z68-v Pro after almost a week, been running it at stock voltage @ 4GHz.

Well maybe the only problem I do have is wishing that the ps3 controllers worked with the BT suite without the need to install other drivers.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest;14037752*
> wow damnit. I didn't even realize a new bios was out. I saw it in beta like a week ago so I didn't touch it. Is it worth flashing?
> 
> EDIT: Oh damn I have 1502. Should I just go straight to 1704? Also, do you guys usually flash it with a usb drive or some other method?


Anyone? Also, the asus software suite says my board doesn't support asus update (tried re-installing i and still no cigar). Is this normal?


----------



## samuel002

Jest, I usually put it into my hardrive and i flash it there when i get into bios I don't really need a usb drive.


----------



## ShiftedReality

I'll join as well. Just put the system together a few days ago. Using the P8P67 EVO, really nice board very stable and runs cool so far.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale;14043320*
> Is there a sticker on the outside of the P8P67-V Pro board that identifies whether it is REV 3.0 or 3.1?


Are you talking about on the board itself? The box the board came in would say. Also, The board i got came with a sticker on two of the slots saying it was a B3 revision board.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShiftedReality;14048962*
> I'll join as well. Just put the system together a few days ago. Using the P8P67 EVO, really nice board very stable and runs cool so far.


Welcome







Added


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;14047468*
> Jest, I usually put it into my hardrive and i flash it there when i get into bios I don't really need a usb drive.


Thanks! If I upgrade to 1704, will I still get the benefits of 1606 (I think that's what it was, the beta)?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest;14049382*
> Thanks! If I upgrade to 1704, will I still get the benefits of 1606 (I think that's what it was, the beta)?


Yes, 1606 was Beta, and I believe you get the same benefits with the 1704.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henrygale*


Is there a sticker on the outside of the P8P67-V Pro board that identifies whether it is REV 3.0 or 3.1?


Probably, not like the upgrade matters.
REV3.1 adds a different USB3 controller or something (not better or worse just different brand)


----------



## giecsar

So I pressed "MemOK!" and let the motherboard run all the tests and then everything worked, finally.

Subsequently, in my excitement, I attempted an overclock with the stock cooler.. big mistake. After a reboot the mobo complained about the CPU temp being too high (87Â°) but before I could do anything it locked up.

I then attempted to reset the system and undo everything, but the motherboard didn't POST anymore







. The VGA LED lit up as if there was a problem with the video card and nothing appeared on the screen. The status code was "79". I tried installing a different GPU but the problem persisted.

Finally I tried clearing CMOS and removing the battery but to no avail..


----------



## turrican9

Added a new Signature variant








*The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68-V Series/PRO Owners Club*


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar;14052407*
> So I pressed "MemOK!" and let the motherboard run all the tests and then everything worked, finally.
> 
> Subsequently, in my excitement, I attempted an overclock with the stock cooler.. big mistake. After a reboot the mobo complained about the CPU temp being too high (87°) but before I could do anything it locked up.
> 
> I then attempted to reset the system and undo everything, but the motherboard didn't POST anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The VGA LED lit up as if there was a problem with the video card and nothing appeared on the screen. The status code was "79". I tried installing a different GPU but the problem persisted.
> 
> Finally I tried clearing CMOS and removing the battery but to no avail..


You positive the cpu led isn't on?


----------



## giecsar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14059174*
> You positive the cpu led isn't on?


As positive as one can be. Though it's not like it would make me feel any better..


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:


> Subsequently, in my excitement, I attempted an overclock with the stock cooler.. big mistake. After a reboot the mobo complained about the CPU temp being too high (87°) but before I could do anything it locked up.


Did you overclock slowly and work your way up or did you just dive right in and try to overclock between 4.5-5Ghz????

That stock heatsink is useless my friend!! you need a third party cooler.

Im wondering wether you have pumped to much voltage through your Processor and killed it. Doesn't take much!.It would be worth while taking your CPU out the socket and checking it for burn marks. That VGA light could be lit because there is no attempt from the motherboard to POST at all due to the chip being dead. But you would expect the CPU light to be lit in this case? but I would check it anways just to be sure.

In your case I would start over from scratch and disassemble the whole PC. Build it again with just the barebones being Mainboard,CPU,GPU,RAM and PSU. Do not bother with all the SATA,IDE connection bla bla bla.

Your not having any luck with your Deluxe at all are you....









Also are there any BEEPS when you turn the power on??

And another thing. Try that GPU in a different PCI-E slot on the mainboard.


----------



## Boefje

Hello Overclockers!

Kinda new here hehe, altough I've been watching these forums for some time.
Anyhow, I just wanted to join the club with my new pc.
It's brand new, just 1 day old, running stock as I didn't had the time to fix things, might as well try this weekend and post some results as well.

Greetings,


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boefje;14059946*
> Hello Overclockers!
> 
> Kinda new here hehe, altough I've been watching these forums for some time.
> Anyhow, I just wanted to join the club with my new pc.
> It's brand new, just 1 day old, running stock as I didn't had the time to fix things, might as well try this weekend and post some results as well.
> 
> Greetings,


Welcome to the Club







I've added you.

As for signature, I would suggest this new one for you







*The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68-V Series/PRO Owners Club*


----------



## giecsar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank31uk;14059431*
> Did you overclock slowly and work your way up or did you just dive right in and try to overclock between 4.5-5Ghz????
> 
> That stock heatsink is useless my friend!! you need a third party cooler.
> 
> Im wondering wether you have pumped to much voltage through your Processor and killed it. Doesn't take much!.It would be worth while taking your CPU out the socket and checking it for burn marks. That VGA light could be lit because there is no attempt from the motherboard to POST at all due to the chip being dead. But you would expect the CPU light to be lit in this case? but I would check it anways just to be sure.
> 
> In your case I would start over from scratch and disassemble the whole PC. Build it again with just the barebones being Mainboard,CPU,GPU,RAM and PSU. Do not bother with all the SATA,IDE connection bla bla bla.
> 
> Your not having any luck with your Deluxe at all are you....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also are there any BEEPS when you turn the power on??
> 
> And another thing. Try that GPU in a different PCI-E slot on the mainboard.


Yeah I did the most foolish thing possible, I attempted to dive right in and do an OC in the 4.5-5GHz range..
I did not overvolt it though, I followed the ASUS guide from their forums and left everything to "auto" except for the multi and DIGI+ VRM, which is why I'm thinking the CPU died because of the mobo's overvoltage bug! There are no apparent burn marks though.

Anyway the PC was already "barebones", I don't even have a case yet. The only "extra" I had connected was an SSD with the OS.

No beeps from the speaker. And yes I tried the GPU in every possible slot. Actually I tried with 2 differend GPUs!

Man this really sucks, I have no friend with a 1155 rig to help me on this


----------



## Boefje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14059980*
> Welcome to the Club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've added you.
> 
> As for signature, I would suggest this new one for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68-V Series/PRO Owners Club*


Thanks very much!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boefje*


Thanks very much!


Also added a link to your system picture, behind your OCN name in the members list.









btw: two more Clubs for you to join









***The Official CORSAIR VENGEANCE Owners Club***








_* The Intel Core i5-2500K/AMD Buttkickers Owners Club *_


----------



## turrican9

guys, the new 1704 bios are giving me the Idle BSOD problem when at 4.5GHz and Offset Vcore in my P8P67 PRO.

This did not happen with the 1502 and the Beta 1606 bios in my system.

Another thing I noticed was that when I boot Windows and start CPU-Z, 1704 bios clocks the CPU at Idle the moment I enter Windows and start CPU-Z. 1502 and 1606 took awhile before it was clocked at it's idle frequency (But If I started Prime 95 and stopped it, it would idle at once).

Have disabled C3/C6 powerstate detection now, in order to remedy the Idle BSOD.


----------



## KidCastro

Guys, looking for a techxpert's advise on my issue... Ive got a P8P67 Pro Rev3.0 so add me to the club.

Simply put... Only had my rig for 2 weeks and Ive had the double boot issue all along and recently upgraded to bios 1704.
Im new to overclocking but after reading through most pages of this topic I have a couple of questions.

1) The only was I can stop double boot, is by disabling PLL Overvoltage? Now its stable with settings >>
Manual
BCLK 100.00
Turbo Multiplier 46.0
4600 is achieved
Disabled PPL Overvoltage
Disabled Power Saving
Disabled unnecessary JMicron & Marvell Controller
Enabled Boot with PCIE
Enabled Intel SpeedStep
Have not played around with the Vcore Voltage

How am I going to achieve 48+ Multi with PPL Overvoltage disabled? I mean this is how most of you are getting stable high power oc's. Are you guys ALL getting double boots and you dont care? Is it some sort of trade off?

Why cant Asus fix this issue, I mean I thought they would of fixed this by 1704








Double boot should be fixed and bios should be refined by now, wouldnt you think.

Any help would be appreciated guys...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KidCastro*


Guys, looking for a techxpert's advise on my issue... Ive got a P8P67 Pro Rev3.0 so add me to the club.

Simply put... Only had my rig for 2 weeks and Ive had the double boot issue all along and recently upgraded to bios 1704.
Im new to overclocking but after reading through most pages of this topic I have a couple of questions.

1) The only was I can stop double boot, is by disabling PLL Overvoltage? Now its stable with settings >>
Manual
BCLK 100.00
Turbo Multiplier 46.0
4600 is achieved
Disabled PPL Overvoltage
Disabled Power Saving
Disabled unnecessary JMicron & Marvell Controller
Enabled Boot with PCIE
Enabled Intel SpeedStep
Have not played around with the Vcore Voltage

How am I going to achieve 48+ Multi with PPL Overvoltage disabled? I mean this is how most of you are getting stable high power oc's. Are you guys ALL getting double boots and you dont care? Is it some sort of trade off?

Why cant Asus fix this issue, I mean I thought they would of fixed this by 1704








Double boot should be fixed and bios should be refined by now, wouldnt you think.

Any help would be appreciated guys...











Welcome to the Club









You are talking about Cold-double boot issue? If so, you could try this also...

Quote:



Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I'll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.

First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. *To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.*


Also, if you have that issue where you come to the marvell bios screen, then back to main bios screen and back to Marvell again, try to disable the Marvell controller in bios. You could also try to disable the JMicron cotroller.

All this is posted in the OP

Edit: I see you already boot with Power on by PCIe. Have you tried enabling Internal PLL overvoltage after you did Power on by PCIe? Also, be sure to follow the above procedure...


----------



## KidCastro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Welcome to the Club









You are talking about Cold-double boot issue? If so, you could try this also...

Also, if you have that issue where you come to the marvell bios screen, then back to main bios screen and back to Marvell again, try to disable the Marvell controller in bios. You could also try to disable the JMicron cotroller.

All this is posted in the OP

Edit: I see you already boot with Power on by PCIe. Have you tried enabling Internal PLL overvoltage after you did Power on by PCIe? Also, be sure to follow the above procedure...


Yes, I have disabled the marvell & JMicron controller so boot is QUICK But.... double boot is still an issue either by enabling PLL Overvoltage and going into either my windows 7 or mac os x hackintosh partition and shutting down properly. It only stops double booting when PLL Overvoltage is disabled. This is not a solution I want. I expect more from Asus man.

So what else should I try, I did read the first post... baring in mind Ive always had PCIE boot enabled.

This is annoying


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KidCastro;14064417*
> Yes, I have disabled the marvell & JMicron controller so boot is QUICK But.... double boot is still an issue either by enabling PLL Overvoltage and going into either my windows 7 or mac os x hackintosh partition and shutting down properly. It only stops double booting when PLL Overvoltage is disabled. This is not a solution I want. I expect more from Asus man.
> 
> So what else should I try, I did read the first post... baring in mind Ive always had PCIE boot enabled.
> 
> This is annoying


Do you have HOT Swap on all Drives ENABLED or DISABLED?

If they are enabled, try to Disable them...


----------



## KidCastro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Do you have HOT Swap on all Drives ENABLED or DISABLED?

If they are enabled, try to Disable them...


They are all disabled buddy, I think there's no way of fixing this


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KidCastro*


They are all disabled buddy, I think there's no way of fixing this










Try taking out two memsticks? If that works, try putting all 4 in and up VCCIO voltage a bit.


----------



## nykeiscool

Solved.


----------



## Apk

So I got a P8P67 Pro with no rear I/O shield, where can I pick one of those up that isn't $30?


----------



## nykeiscool

Fixed my earlier probelm but as imentioned before.. this isnt my final system getting a different PSU / Ram.. but im tempted to go on ahead and give OC'n it a try.. if i do this and switch out my memory in the following week would this possibly "break my oc" atm im using skill rip jaws 2 out of 3 of my sticks 2G each with 1600 8 timing.. im going to upgrade to a 2x4gb kit with same timings.


----------



## grunion

I would avoid the 1704 bios.
Nothing but problems for me, random restarts being the most prevalent.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14077219*
> I would avoid the 1704 bios.
> Nothing but problems for me, random restarts being the most prevalent.


I came from 1502 and 1606 to 1704. 1502 and 1606 was stable at 4.5GHz using Offset Vcore. With 1704 I had to disable C3/C6 to avoid Idle BSOD.

This is probably what you are seeing.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14078716*
> I came from 1502 and 1606 to 1704. 1502 and 1606 was stable at 4.5GHz using Offset Vcore. With 1704 I had to disable C3/C6 to avoid Idle BSOD.
> 
> This is probably what you are seeing.


I've always disabled c3/6.

Currently running 1 5870 at stock, testing power supply.
I'll oc it after I can get 24 hrs of no restarts, if that succeeds I'll add my second 5870 and go from there.
I just find it strange that these restarts coincide with the 1704 bios.

Did we ever get a surefire way to roll back bios versions?


----------



## turrican9

*KidCastro*

I can use x47 multi with Internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled.

Why not just use x47 and up the BCLK? I think you can go safely to at least 105MHz. 47x 105MHz = 4935MHz. It may be it can go perfectly fine up to 107MHz also.

You can also finetune it. Selecting 104.2 etc...


----------



## RomeoOG

I upgrade to Bios 1704 and turn everything on currently running at 5.0 ghz 24/7 with HT on, with C3 & C6 on also and it seems to be stable for me, before I would get the idle bug running at just 4800 or 4700 it randomly Bsode.

I gues every MB is different, stable for me doesn't it stable for everybody and for some stable for them but not for me.


----------



## SolidForce

Hey all,

I have the P8P67 WS REVOLUTION (B3 revision) and would love to be part of the club









-SF


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SolidForce*


Hey all,

I have the P8P67 WS REVOLUTION (B3 revision) and would love to be part of the club









-SF


Welcome to the Club







*Added*


----------



## chronix112

ASUS P8P67 PRO LGA 1155 owner requesting add


----------



## Ap0llo

I'm gonna be joining this club on Saturday.

I chose the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO over the AsRock Extreme4 (tough choice I should say) and I hope I'll be happy with this board and have no regrets in the end.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chronix112*


ASUS P8P67 PRO LGA 1155 owner requesting add


Welcome







*Added* You are member number 100


----------



## D3TH.GRUNT

hmmm, may i join this club







I've been using SB since it came out in january, running the pre-B3 P8P67 vanilla


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *D3TH.GRUNT*


hmmm, may i join this club







I've been using SB since it came out in january, running the pre-B3 P8P67 vanilla










Welcome to the Club, ASUS P8P67 Vanilla Owner







*Added*


----------



## duox

can I get added , my boards in the sig


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duox;14109271*
> can I get added , my boards in the sig


Welcome







*Added*


----------



## Sagman76

Hi
Joined a whiler back but not had much time to tinker with my oc. Initially I was running XMP 45x multiplyer and 1.3v manual disable PLL and spectrum spresd the rest are standard settings. Temps idled in low thirties and under under prime95 max 78c on core 2. I didnt really want manual and constant 1.3v. So have spent some time playing but I think my Artic Rev 2 is not up to it. If i go anything over x45 on the multiplyer or 1.35v or above voltage its hitting 90-95c, too hot!. I had this setting
XMP
x48
BLK100
LLC - High
Phase - Extreme
Duty - Extreme
VRM 350
Offset +.040 to +.060
Voltage was hitting 1.4 -1.42 
Temps as above mid 90C, no good.

At present I have,
XMP 
x45 
BLK 103
getting 4638mhz
LLC-High
Offset -.020
DRAM 1.5 at 1638 mhz (i think!)
The rest of the settigns are standard 
In Prime tests Cpuz is saying voltage is topping at 1.33v but jumps between 1.29 and 1.33v. Idel .98v
Idle temps are low to mid thirties. Max temps under prime for an hour is 83c. I think I will have too leave it here until my 212+ arrives with Mx2 TIM. 
It is warm here in UK 25c today so im sure thats adding to the temps. I have a Fractal R3 with the 2 fans that come with it, one in the front and one for exaust I also have Sharkoon Golfball 1000rpm in front and as top rear exhaust. Taken out all hard drive cages that are not being used and my cable management is good(even if I say so myself!) 
I know Prime is really maxing it and under BFBC2 which i'm told is quite CPU heavy temps on current settings are only mid 60C. Even on the first setting it only hit mid 70C in gamig. 
My questions are,
1.is my Artic Cooler Rev2 hindering higher voltage and multiplers? Will I notice a differnence with a 212+?
2.Even if Prime is hitting 90C on the higher multis and voltage but gaming scenarios only 70-75C is it still safe as long as its stable?

Thanks in advance


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tomasrs4*


Hello all P8P67 owners,

Recently i bought P8P67 PRO REV 3.1 motherboard and i have problems with corsair 2x2gb 1600mhz ram CMX4GX3M2A1600C9. One module refuses to work, the other one works perfectly. The problem is not with ram, because i tested them on my friends computer and ram worked fine, also I took his 1333mhz kingston ram and surprisingly it worked fine on my P8P67 PRO 3.1 board... What do i do, where's the problem??

By the way, i ran the memok! test, i cleared the cmos and one time computer successfully booted with both modules, but when i changed frequency to 1600mhz in bios, PC wouldn't boot again and now even clearing the cmos doesn't help.

And is it really only one BIOS release till today for this motherboard??










Just updating: problem solved, stick was faulty, received new ones and everyting's working fine. If anyone has the same problem, don't waste your time like i did trying to figure out whats wrong


----------



## nicolasl46

Can I join the Club? Just upgraded my sabertooth x58/i7 960 to an Asus P8P67 Pro and a i7 2600k. I love this thing!!!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


Can I join the Club? Just upgraded my sabertooth x58/i7 960 to an Asus P8P67 Pro and a i7 2600k. I love this thing!!!


Welcome







*Added*


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Welcome







*Added*










Thanks, thread link added to sig


----------



## GuitsBoy

Is anybody here running LLC in extreme? I know most people suggest leaving it at ultra high, but I'd like to maintain my low idle voltages for power savings.

I'm currently rock solid a 4.8 with 1.392 vcore. Ive tried pushing for 5.0, but Ive volted up to 1.460 without getting stable in prime. Having a 1.46 vcore on 32 nm already seems severe, not sure I want to push further than this. Anyone have any long term experience at 1.475 with these chips? I dont run full load 24/7, usually only a couple hours at a clip, then it falls back to idle at 1.6 GHz and ~1.000 vcore. Not sure if I shoudl push my luck and try for the holy 5.0, or call is quite and be happy with 4.8. The electric bill may be a deciding factor in this too...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuitsBoy*


Is anybody here running LLC in extreme? I know most people suggest leaving it at ultra high, but I'd like to maintain my low idle voltages for power savings.

I'm currently rock solid a 4.8 with 1.392 vcore. Ive tried pushing for 5.0, but Ive volted up to 1.460 without getting stable in prime. Having a 1.46 vcore on 32 nm already seems severe, not sure I want to push further than this. Anyone have any long term experience at 1.475 with these chips? I dont run full load 24/7, usually only a couple hours at a clip, then it falls back to idle at 1.6 GHz and ~1.000 vcore. Not sure if I shoudl push my luck and try for the holy 5.0, or call is quite and be happy with 4.8. The electric bill may be a deciding factor in this too...


If you have Idle BSOD's, try to disable the C3/C6 reporting.

Also, If extreme works well for you, then use it. It's all about what works for each person.

Off Topic: I am not very impressed by the troll that have voted down all threads in the CPU/Motherboards section. The troll has given one star for all threads active, resulting in lower grades score for alot of the threads. Shame on you, whoever you are.


----------



## GuitsBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14126004*
> If you have Idle BSOD's, try to disable the C3/C6 reporting.
> 
> Also, If extreme works well for you, then use it. It's all about what works for each person.


No idle BSoDs. Ive had C3/C6 disabled since day one, yet I still enjoy EIST and C1E. Ive tried upping VCCIO and DRAM voltage modestly, but it doesnt seem to help. I usually get BSODs after a few minutes of prime blend, though I do not remember the exact error code.


----------



## GuitsBoy

Also, has anyone tried the new Beta BIOS that was released july 4 for the P8P67 Pro B3? Its version 1850, and claims to improve system stability. I dont usually try beta bioses unless they have a feature I need, but I sure do like the sound of improved stability.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuitsBoy;14126933*
> No idle BSoDs. Ive had C3/C6 disabled since day one, yet I still enjoy EIST and C1E. Ive tried upping VCCIO and DRAM voltage modestly, but it doesnt seem to help. I usually get BSODs after a few minutes of prime blend, though I do not remember the exact error code.


Every CPU scale differently with Vcore... Maybe yours is not up to the task of the 'Big' 5GHz?


----------



## GuitsBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14126993*
> Every CPU scale differently with Vcore... Maybe yours is not up to the task of the 'Big' 5GHz?


Yeah, I know, I know. Im only going by how well regarded my batch number is, and how easily Ive gotten to 4.8. I know there are no guarantees, but I am not completely without supporting evidence.

I'm 90% prime stable at an offset of +.010 and fully prime stable at +.020. However I have been as high as a +.080 offset without making it more than ten minutes in prime at 5.0.

The big question is should I admit defeat and be happy its such a great performer at 4.8 and low vcore? Or do I push on in the pursuit of glory? Believe me, Im not disappointed in the chip in the slightest right where she sits now - just wondering if I should keep pushing my luck. Like I mentioned before, I'm almost more concerned with power consumption at the extra vcore than I am concerned with chip longevity. Id like to find a nice balance, but i feel like Im actually at the low end right now.


----------



## GuitsBoy

I dont want to jinx it, but I'm at 5.0 and running prime for 30+ minutes so far. Updated to the newest beta bios, upped it to extreme LLC at a + .020 offset. DRAM voltage at 1.55 and vccio is 1.15. This results in a 1.456 -1.472 vcore, and a max of 77c, but primarily upper 60s or low 70s. So far so good. Screenies at the hour mark.


----------



## GuitsBoy

BSoD right at 57 minutes! Dammmmmmit! Reducing DRAM voltage and Increasing vcore offset by .005 and trying again. Wish me luck!


----------



## GuitsBoy

Failed again, BSoD at 48 minutes this time. I really didnt see any increase in average vcore as reported in cpu-z though... Should I try and up the vcore again? For the time being, Ive gone back to 4.8...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuitsBoy*


Failed again, BSoD at 48 minutes this time. I really didnt see any increase in average vcore as reported in cpu-z though... Should I try and up the vcore again? For the time being, Ive gone back to 4.8...


Try upping Vcore more. These CPU's can BSOD after several hours into Blend test. They can even fail after 10 hours Blend test. Up the Vcore until you're at least 12 hours + Blend stable.


----------



## GuitsBoy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Try upping Vcore more. These CPU's can BSOD after several hours into Blend test. They can even fail after 10 hours Blend test. Up the Vcore until you're at least 12 hours + Blend stable.


Im already seeing 1.472 vcore, but I imagine I wont be the first to try for 12 hours of prime at close to 1.5v.

Has anyone played with the CPU long and short duration power limits at all? Might be blue screening as the cpu ramps down in between routines.


----------



## jach11

Add me plz. Im already in the 2500K club.
P8P67 Pro


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuitsBoy*


Im already seeing 1.472 vcore, but I imagine I wont be the first to try for 12 hours of prime at close to 1.5v.

Has anyone played with the CPU long and short duration power limits at all? Might be blue screening as the cpu ramps down in between routines.


If using Offset Vcore, try to disable C3/C6 detection if you get Idle BSOD's


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jach11*


Add me plz. Im already in the 2500K club.
P8P67 Pro


Welcome







*Added*


----------



## GuitsBoy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


If using Offset Vcore, try to disable C3/C6 detection if you get Idle BSOD's


Those have been long gone. Kept EIST and C1E though. Also still have EPU power saving set to auto.


----------



## turrican9

Please help and vote up the thread again guys and girls. There has been a troll on the loose, voting down all threads in the CPU/Motherboard section.

I hope the moderators get hold of him/her and hand out warnings.


----------



## NineteenEleven

Has anyone noticed a significant speed loss using the 6gb/s marvell controller?

I picked up a sata3 ssd last night and ran some benches. I had almost 100 mb/s less through the marvell sata port.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NineteenEleven*


Has anyone noticed a significant speed loss using the 6gb/s marvell controller?

I picked up a sata3 ssd last night and ran some benches. I had almost 100 mb/s less through the marvell sata port.


Only use those if you need more than the 6 Native ports. Marvell is slower. And If you need them, only use harddrives for storage.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NineteenEleven;14135358*
> Has anyone noticed a significant speed loss using the 6gb/s marvell controller?
> 
> I picked up a sata3 ssd last night and ran some benches. I had almost 100 mb/s less through the marvell sata port.


Marvell SATA III ports suck! They max out at around 400MB/s and you won't even reach that. When I had my sabertooth x58 I bought a OCZ Vertex 3 Max IOPS 60GB and I wouldn't get over 320/280MB/s transfer speeds, that's the reason why I returned that SSD and got my money back ($336 after tax







) Sold my 1366 set up, and now I'm running this







in a month or so I'll get another SSD. So for the love of God, stay away from anything Marvell!


----------



## Alex132

Marvell is fine if you're running your back-up HDD's on it. Otherwise not really.


----------



## turrican9

A little update on my system. Worth trying for others too:
Quote:


> I've upped VCCIO from 1.05 to 1.10 volts now, in hopes I can lower Vcore a bit. So far so good. I have a feeling that since I use 8GB RAM at 1600 and Command Rate 1t, that this will help. Earlier indications has showed that my CPU ran Prime95 Blend longer at lower Vcore when RAM was at 1333 and Command Rate 2t.
> 
> Trying 4.5GHz at - 0.01 Offset instead of the usual + 0.02v Offset.
> 
> Update: Wow! Increasing VCCIO helps alot! I tried 4.6GHz with + 0.01 Offset (About 1.36v under load. Same I needed at 4.5GHz before, and even less) and VCCIO at 1.1v. It crashes almost the second I had started the Blend test. Then I upped VCCIO to 1.15v, and now Blend has been going for several minutes! Maybe my CPU isn't that bad after all! When VCCIO was at default 1.050v even 1.4v Vcore was not enough to keep it 12 hours + stable at 4.6GHz !


----------



## Alex132

VCCIO you say









Gonna take my system apart and try that tonight.


----------



## Shane1244

Hey guys, Im a idiot and didn't realize the Vanilla P8P68 didn't support SLI...

How much would one go for used? It's in perfect condition..


----------



## Alex132

It does support SLI, just at 16x/4x IIRC


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;14137062*
> It does support SLI, just at 16x/4x IIRC


I've searched google, and from what I found, SLI will not work in that board. Also, If you look here, it only mention crossfire. And there is no SLI hack for this board.

Edit: There is a reason the P8P67 PRO is so popular. It has all of the most important features from the series, and have a nice price. The EVO, Deluxe and Maximus IV Extreme have extra features not needed by most. Also, those boards below the P8P67 PRO are missing several key features. Vanilla is a good board for those that is sure they will never run SLI. However, one never know... And the price difference from the Vanilla to PRO is not very big.


----------



## turrican9

Anyone tested the 1850 bios? Just downloaded it for my PRO.

Here is some feedback from the ASUS P67 Information thread. Looks promising. Looking forward to this








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Mac;14118252*
> 1st impressions of 1850 on the deluxe with same oc settings on 1703 (45x, manual 350 phaze, pll overvolt disabled, high control):
> 
> 1. Lower load vcore
> 2. Lower idle vcore
> 3. lower load temps (duh - lower vcore..lol) highest core at 79 degrees with 212+ one fan at 1925rpm
> 4. prime 95 much more stable (was game stable on 1703 but prime 95 BSODed at 1.5 hrs)
> 5. Dont need -.02 offset to get idle vcore to almost 1.000v
> 6. No more slow windows boots
> 
> next to test sleep overnight, was 100% functional under 1703 with no random reboots or Black screens.
> 
> now to really screw things up and play with the 11.7 preview catalyst....lol


----------



## GuitsBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14139320*
> Anyone tested the 1850 bios? Just downloaded it for my PRO.
> 
> Here is some feedback from the ASUS P67 Information thread. Looks promising. Looking forward to this


I flashed 1850 last night. To be perfectly honest I did not notice any changes in vcore. After getting 5.0 to run prime for nearly an hour, twice, which is far better than previous attempts, I went back to my reliable 4.8 settings. There may well be some stability enhancements, but I dont know if a vcore reduction is going to be common.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuitsBoy;14139375*
> I flashed 1850 last night. To be perfectly honest I did not notice any changes in vcore. After getting 5.0 to run prime for nearly an hour, twice, which is far better than previous attempts, I went back to my reliable 4.8 settings. There may well be some stability enhancements, but I dont know if a vcore reduction is going to be common.


Well, I will try it in mine. I have a very Vcore hungry 2500K. Hoping for some better results with this bios. will report back









Update: Naahh... it does not seem to be able to lower my Vcore. At least not by a countable account. I won't bother testing for very small gains.


----------



## munaim1

Hey bro still can't believe that even after all this info available on this thread that some people just can't help it and have ask the dreaded 'vs' questions.









Well I think your missing two very important pics that really need to be in the first page, try and enlarge or something because damn, some people still don't get it lol









I'v probably posted this pic of the p67 asus comparison table 100 times now and I trully believe that it deserves it's place in this thread. so courtesty of google images here you are:

*ASUS P67 mobo comparison (minus a couple things):*









*ASUS Z68 mobo comparison:*


----------



## nawon72

I just got back from my vacation, and I'm wondering if i missed anything important while i was away.


----------



## neonleon79

I guys, first off would like to be added to the club. Finished my first build 2 weeks ago and everythin went great. Good fun. Think my sig should be included but if not I got the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.0

Ok, so my sys has been workin great for 2 weeks an last night decided to try my first ever oc. Followed the guide from the first page to the letter (I think) but got BSOD
So i got a but nervos, cleared the CMOS and reverted my settings to regroup and try again another day. Here's what I did
Updated to 1704 Bios from 150?
I did my settings as suggested starting with 1.120 vcore. The guide is done with an i7 in mind, should'n my i5 take less voltage? It started at 1.23V
I only changed what the guide said, and was going for 40 multipler at first. Reset and straight to BSOD. So went back an upped the voltage to 1.25. Same. Upped to 1.35 and reset, went further with starting windows but then BSOD. I plugged out my PSU, waited and started again, got as far as login on, then BSOD. Then I got nervous and reset everything
So now my questions
Was this just because of low voltage and should I just keep upping it bit by bit?
Some people seem to be gettin 4.5Mhz without upping the voltage, or with very low voltage. How? Is this just the variability of CPU's?
Do I need to change any other settings or is anything recommended?
I've read alot on this forum but getting confused. 
I'm not plannin on a massive overclock, maybe 4.5Mhz. I want it to be stable for 24/7 use, so I can do it an leave it and be stable for games. 
Any suggestions? Am i being an overcautious noob an just need to up my voltage until stable.. i saw also some people with 1.3v and sable.. 
Help please


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neonleon79;14145233*
> I guys, first off would like to be added to the club. Finished my first build 2 weeks ago and everythin went great. Good fun. Think my sig should be included but if not I got the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.0
> 
> Ok, so my sys has been workin great for 2 weeks an last night decided to try my first ever oc. Followed the guide from the first page to the letter (I think) but got BSOD
> So i got a but nervos, cleared the CMOS and reverted my settings to regroup and try again another day. Here's what I did
> Updated to 1704 Bios from 150?
> I did my settings as suggested starting with 1.120 vcore. The guide is done with an i7 in mind, should'n my i5 take less voltage? It started at 1.23V
> I only changed what the guide said, and was going for 40 multipler at first. Reset and straight to BSOD. So went back an upped the voltage to 1.25. Same. Upped to 1.35 and reset, went further with starting windows but then BSOD. I plugged out my PSU, waited and started again, got as far as login on, then BSOD. Then I got nervous and reset everything
> So now my questions
> Was this just because of low voltage and should I just keep upping it bit by bit?
> Some people seem to be gettin 4.5Mhz without upping the voltage, or with very low voltage. How? Is this just the variability of CPU's?
> Do I need to change any other settings or is anything recommended?
> I've read alot on this forum but getting confused.
> I'm not plannin on a massive overclock, maybe 4.5Mhz. I want it to be stable for 24/7 use, so I can do it an leave it and be stable for games.
> Any suggestions? Am i being an overcautious noob an just need to up my voltage until stable.. i saw also some people with 1.3v and sable..
> Help please


Welcome to the Club







*Added*

They all differ in how much Vcore they need for a certain overclock. I have a bad one that needs 1.36v + full load Vcore for 4.5GHz to be Prime95 Blend stable. And I've heard about some needing 1.4v on the same settings.

However, at 4Ghz you should not need much anyway. Maybe you should try downclocking mem and see? Then try and up it to stock again and set timings manully. Also set command rate to 2t.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14143301*
> Hey bro still can't believe that even after all this info available on this thread that some people just can't help it and have ask the dreaded 'vs' questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I think your missing two very important pics that really need to be in the first page, try and enlarge or something because damn, some people still don't get it lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'v probably posted this pic of the p67 asus comparison table 100 times now and I trully believe that it deserves it's place in this thread. so courtesty of google images here you are:


Done, bro.


----------



## Akehage

Hi, long time no see! Havent been at this forum for a bit, because I have not been using my computer for a while. I did see that two new BIOS-releases has come since I have been here, 1704 and 1850. I have 1606. So thrilled by this, thinking something may have changed with this. Is it just for me to install the latest 1850, or should I go with the 1704 first, then upgrade again to the newest? And did see that I am supposed to install IRST 10.5 version driver first, that can be found under "SATA" catalogue. Is this neccesarry if I am going to upgrade directly to 1850 aswell? And is this a windows-installation? Nice to be back here in this forum, have missed it accually


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akehage;14147037*
> Hi, long time no see! Havent been at this forum for a bit, because I have not been using my computer for a while. I did see that two new BIOS-releases has come since I have been here, 1704 and 1850. I have 1606. So thrilled by this, thinking something may have changed with this. Is it just for me to install the latest 1850, or should I go with the 1704 first, then upgrade again to the newest? And did see that I am supposed to install IRST 10.5 version driver first, that can be found under "SATA" catalogue. Is this neccesarry if I am going to upgrade directly to 1850 aswell? And is this a windows-installation? Nice to be back here in this forum, have missed it accually


Hi, mate. you can update straight to the latest bios. I use the Flash utility from inside the bios.

You can install that IRST driver when it suits you.


----------



## Akehage

HI there!







I remembered that I have already installed that IRST driver. And will try the new BIOS 1850, is it still a betaversion btw? I did see that a 19XX-version should be out next week, any comments to that? If thats the case, I wait to next week and do the upgrade then instead. = )


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akehage;14147236*
> HI there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remembered that I have already installed that IRST driver. And will try the new BIOS 1850, is it still a betaversion btw?


It is a beta bios. I'm using it myself. Works fine. Rumors says the final will be out next week.


----------



## Akehage

I did change my post secons before your answer, thanks for the info!


----------



## turrican9

Continued my testing with higher VCCIO Voltage.

When VCCIO are default (1.050v) I need + 0.02 Offset (Gives min. 1.360v under P95 load with my CPU) Voltage at 4.5GHz in order to be 12 hours + Prime95 Blend stable.

Right now I'm testing with VCCIO at 1.150v and - (Minus) 0.005v Offset (Gives min. 1.328v under P95 load) at 4.5GHz. Until now, one hour and 40 minutes stable in Blend Custom (6000MB). Looks very promising. Last night I tried with VCCIO at stock and lowered Offset to + 0.01, and it BSOD's after a few hours. So higher VCCIO helps alot here. Crossing my fingers.

Yesterday I tested with 1.150v VCCIO at 4.6 and 4.7GHz, and it didn't seem to scale as well as it did at 4.5GHz with VCCIO upped. So I wonder If it could help to enable PLL Overvoltage Option. I know it is usually needed at 4.8GHz +, but I see no reason as to why my CPU obviously can go with lower Vcore at 4.5GHz when VCCIO is 1.150v VS Stock 1.050v and not so much at 4.6 - 4.7GHz. So there must be another factor. Only thing I can think of is PLL Overvoltage Option.

From what I understand, upping VCCIO can help Vcore wise, especially when you use 8GB or more RAM.

Update: Anyway, it seems that upping VCCIO increases the CPU temp, so there is no real gain even If I can lower Vcore a bit. Everything past 4.5GHz seems to need large bumps in Vcore in my 2500K. 4.5GHz seems to be the sweetspot for this CPU.


----------



## atbel

Hi, long time lurker here, I finally decided to join now that I have a decent rig.

I built my pc last week and it's working alright except for the dvd drive, windows 7 recognizes it and everything, but when I put a disc inside it ejects the tray and asks me to insert a disk after trying to read it for a few seconds.

I already tried with 2 different drives (both of them new) and and also tried changing the sata port it's connected to and nothing, could you please help me with this?


----------



## Frank31uk

Quote:



I built my pc last week and it's working alright except for the dvd drive, windows 7 recognizes it and everything, but when I put a disc inside it ejects the tray and asks me to insert a disk after trying to read it for a few seconds.


So I assume if you try booting with DVD as 1st boot device it will recognize discs otherwise how did you manage to install Windows 7? Just as a test try putting your Windows 7 disc into the drive and restart the PC making sure in your BIOS you have the DVD drive set as 1st boot device. If it reads your Win7 disc and continues to the setup screen then your drive is obviously working and it would have to be a Windows 7 issue causing this problem.

What CD/DVD`s are you using btw ?

And did this problem occur as soon as you got into the Windows interface?

Also you mentioned that the drive is new and you have tried a different drive and SATA port without any luck. How about changing the SATA cable? have you tried that?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *atbel*


Hi, long time lurker here, I finally decided to join now that I have a decent rig.

I built my pc last week and it's working alright except for the dvd drive, windows 7 recognizes it and everything, but when I put a disc inside it ejects the tray and asks me to insert a disk after trying to read it for a few seconds.

I already tried with 2 different drives (both of them new) and and also tried changing the sata port it's connected to and nothing, could you please help me with this?


*Added*


----------



## turrican9

People, is it possible to overclock each core independently in the ASUS P8P67 PRO?

I just tried setting different Turbo multipliers for each core in bios, and ended up with them running at the same Turbo multiplier no matter what I did. Also tried in OS, with TurboV. It only adjust Turbo multi for all 4.

I've read that the Deluxe can do this.

My thoughts was that if I could find the Core/Cores that held me back the most, I could keep them a few Turbo multipliers behind the good cores, in order to get a max overclock.

Is this possible? Anyone?


----------



## atbel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank31uk;14155708*
> So I assume if you try booting with DVD as 1st boot device it will recognize discs otherwise how did you manage to install Windows 7? Just as a test try putting your Windows 7 disc into the drive and restart the PC making sure in your BIOS you have the DVD drive set as 1st boot device. If it reads your Win7 disc and continues to the setup screen then your drive is obviously working and it would have to be a Windows 7 issue causing this problem.
> 
> What CD/DVD`s are you using btw ?
> 
> And did this problem occur as soon as you got into the Windows interface?
> 
> Also you mentioned that the drive is new and you have tried a different drive and SATA port without any luck. How about changing the SATA cable? have you tried that?


I'm pretty sure the problem isn't with windows.

When I tried to install windows by putting the disk in the drive I'd get a 'reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key' message in the black screen.

So I used an old IDE dvd drive I had and an IDE to USB adapter to install windows 7, had to force it to boot from there in the bios since it didn't appear in the boot order for some reason.

I've tried with various installation discs (win 7, asus suite, etc), dvd movies, dvds and cds with burned data, it was the same with all of them, 1 minute of trying to read and then nothing.

Yeah I just tried with different sata cables and nothing. Well I've only got two left, one that came with the mobo and one I removed from the 690 esata (I'm not gonna use esata and was trying to tidy up the inside the case... yet it still looks like a cable jungle).


----------



## grunion

Someone please post a pic of your Pro socket cover.
Looks like an rma is my future, but the socket cover I have doesn't seem to fit.

Definitely don't want to force and end up bending some pins.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14161037*
> Someone please post a pic of your Pro socket cover.
> Looks like an rma is my future, but the socket cover I have doesn't seem to fit.
> 
> Definitely don't want to force and end up bending some pins.


----------



## Alex132

Anyone manage to boot from another OS on this motherboard?


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14161037*
> Someone please post a pic of your Pro socket cover.
> Looks like an rma is my future, but the socket cover I have doesn't seem to fit.
> 
> Definitely don't want to force and end up bending some pins.


You know you are supposed to install it the reverse way you took it out, right? You first put the edge that goes against the hinge of the cpu holder, and then you lower the other edge in place. You can't just drop it like in a socket 1366

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk


----------



## Ap0llo

I finally got my ASUS P8Z68-V Pro and it's running great so far!

Pls. add me on this club. Thanks!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ap0llo;14164319*
> I finally got my ASUS P8Z68-V Pro and it's running great so far!
> 
> Pls. add me on this club. Thanks!


Welcome







*Added*

btw: I've removed the following Motherboards from this Club: ASUS P8P67-M/PRO, ASUS P67 Sabertooth, ASUS Maximus Extreme IV. P8P67-M/M PRO have little in common with the usual P8P67/P8Z68 Series. Maximus IV and Sabertooth have their own Clubs and are unique in their own way.


----------



## BrewMeister

Sign me up...
P8Z68 Deluxe owner
Just updated the BIOS to 0651
Trying to redo overclocking now...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrewMeister;14166799*
> Sign me up...
> P8Z68 Deluxe owner
> Just updated the BIOS to 0651
> Trying to redo overclocking now...


Welcome







*Added to the List*


----------



## turrican9

The following motherboards are included in this Club now:

*ASUS P8P67 PRO
ASUS P8P67 LE
ASUS P8P67 Vanilla
ASUS P8P67 EVO
ASUS P8P67 Deluxe
ASUS P8P67 WS Revolution
ASUS P8Z68-V LE
ASUS P8Z68-V
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO
ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe*

This includes the whole P8P67/P8Z68 Series. P8P67-M (Yeah, they are the P8P67-M series) is not part of the regular P8P67 Series, and belong in it's own threads, due to differences. The P8P67 LE and the P8Z68-V LE is included, since the brand naming fits. However, they are very stripped down, so I was unsure if they should be included. Their there..

As I've also said, the ASUS Maximus Extreme IV and ASUS P67 Sabertooth is removed, as they have their own Clubs and are unique in their own ways.

Reason I skipped the '-V' after the P8Z68 name is because the P8Z68 Deluxe have no '-V' in it's name. So better to just go with the 'P8Z68' Series instead.

The good old P8P67 PRO signature variant is still there







And a new Kickass variant. Changed the Fonts. New Times Roman was to small with size 2 and to big with Size 3. So now I use Cosmic Sans MS.








***The Official ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Club***
















***The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club***









*>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series/Kickass Club>>*

btw: this thread had 9 top votes until recently, seems like another troll has given it 1 star, so now it grades 4.6. Update: And now 11 votes and 4.27.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14156057*
> People, is it possible to overclock each core independently in the ASUS P8P67 PRO?
> 
> I just tried setting different Turbo multipliers for each core in bios, and ended up with them running at the same Turbo multiplier no matter what I did. Also tried in OS, with TurboV. It only adjust Turbo multi for all 4.
> 
> I've read that the Deluxe can do this.
> 
> My thoughts was that if I could find the Core/Cores that held me back the most, I could keep them a few Turbo multipliers behind the good cores, in order to get a max overclock.
> 
> Is this possible? Anyone?


Ive tested this for a few days before i went on vacation. I had the exact same thought as you, so i decided to use my stable 4.8GHz and set it to 49 48 48 48 multi. And as you said, all the cores end up running at the same turbo multi. So i thought i would bump it up to 50 48 48 48, and benchmark it with Cinebench. The results weren't consistent enough to say if there was a difference(maybe 0.005), so i bumped it up to 52 48 48 48. Again Cinebench didn't really show much, if any difference. But if i remember correctly, the single core test scored a little bit higher. Im not sure if this increase would have much of a real world benefit besides the few(i might be way off) single threaded applications. Next i increased the multis to 52 50 48 48(i tested all these OC's with Prime95, and didnt change the Vcore), and benchmarked it with Cinebench. It hadn't been very consistent in the past, but i cant remember why i continued to use it:kookoo:. Anyways, it seemed to increase the score by 0.03 or so. Again, i don't know how accurate that is.

After putting another computer together, and looking through the mobo's BIOS(Intel DP67DE), i found out that the 1core ratio limit is the turbo multi that the CPU uses in single threaded apps(such as Cinebench single core). If more cores are needed, then the CPU uses the turbo ratio limit that is set in the BIOS. For example, you set the BIOS to 50 49 49 48 and run Prime95 with all cores and hyperthreading(if applicable). The CPU will run at 48x during the stress test because all the cores are being used. I noticed this when stress testing a i5 2400 in the DP67DE mobo. It was set to 34 33 33 32, and i saw it change in RealTemp 3.67 depending on the number of core being used in Prime95.

So im not sure if this feature works on the P8P67 Pro mobo, or if it works in a different way. The only way to know for sure is to ask ASUS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;14161325*
> Anyone manage to boot from another OS on this motherboard?


I think i booted Ubuntu with the wubi installer. Or i uninstalled it before i got a chance because i realized i didn't need it.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14168752*
> Ive tested this for a few days before i went on vacation. I had the exact same thought as you, so i decided to use my stable 4.8GHz and set it to 49 48 48 48 multi. And as you said, all the cores end up running at the same turbo multi. So i thought i would bump it up to 50 48 48 48, and benchmark it with Cinebench. The results weren't consistent enough to say if there was a difference(maybe 0.005), so i bumped it up to 52 48 48 48. Again Cinebench didn't really show much, if any difference. But if i remember correctly, the single core test scored a little bit higher. Im not sure if this increase would have much of a real world benefit besides the few(i might be way off) single threaded applications. Next i increased the multis to 52 50 48 48(i tested all these OC's with Prime95, and didnt change the Vcore), and benchmarked it with Cinebench. It hadn't been very consistent in the past, but i cant remember why i continued to use it:kookoo:. Anyways, it seemed to increase the score by 0.03 or so. Again, i don't know how accurate that is.
> 
> After putting another computer together, and looking through the mobo's BIOS(Intel DP67DE), i found out that the 1core ratio limit is the turbo multi that the CPU uses in single threaded apps(such as Cinebench single core). If more cores are needed, then the CPU uses the turbo ratio limit that is set in the BIOS. For example, you set the BIOS to 50 49 49 48 and run Prime95 with all cores and hyperthreading(if applicable). The CPU will run at 48x during the stress test because all the cores are being used. I noticed this when stress testing a i5 2400 in the DP67DE mobo. It was set to 34 33 33 32, and i saw it change in RealTemp 3.67 depending on the number of core being used in Prime95.
> 
> So im not sure if this feature works on the P8P67 Pro mobo, or if it works in a different way. The only way to know for sure is to ask ASUS.


I also tried this and had same results as you did. Bios also states that Core 0 must have a higher or same multi as Core 1. Same with Core 2 and 3. Also, bios says you cannot leave some of them on Auto.

Another interesting thing I posted about in the i5 2500K Club...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14168524*
> I'm actually able to boot and stability test at 48x multi with the PLL Overvoltage feature Disabled. I always thought 47x was the max with it Disabled for most 2500K/2600K's.
> 
> I've lowered VCCSA to 0.875v, VCCIO to 0.950v, CPU PLL to 1.45v. All this for lower temps. Shooting for 4.8GHz on my Voltage hungry 2500K. Actually seems my CM 212+ is coping with it when Blending at 1.464v - 1.480v Vcore. I think that lowering all those Voltages really helped with my temps. Highest temps until now is Core 0 to Core 3: 70c, 75c, 76c, 74c.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14168710*
> Take a look here.
> 
> It seems that to lower CPU PLL, VCCSA and VCCIO as much as they go down will help temps. I've not found my lowest yet, but I'm already getting about the same temps at 4.8GHz as I did with all those Volts at default when at 4.7GHz and a lower Vcore.
> 
> Pretty nice if you ask me... Also, the fact that I can leave PLL Overvoltage Option Disabled at 48x multi is real funny...


----------



## Buckley

My vcore went up a notch with the new bios 0651 with same oc.


----------



## turrican9

I've just ordered a NH-D14... Seeing as I can make my Vcore hungry 2500K stable at 4.8GHz and keep under 80c when Blend, using my CM Hyper 212+... I assume I will make it to 5GHz with a NH-D14 and even more Vcore. I'm willing to go 1.5v + Vcore under load.

I assume the NH-D14 will manage to keep my hottest core 10c lower VS CM Hyper 212+.

Also, I think my Vengeance will go clear (Barely) since they are in the recommended Blue slots. If not, I will take off the Heatspreaders.


----------



## Alex132

Ouch a NDH14?
I would NEVER get that due to the fear of it bending my motherboard. Heck my TRUE120 bent my old motherboard. My next upgrade is watercooling for sure.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;14169062*
> Ouch a NDH14?
> I would NEVER get that due to the fear of it bending my motherboard. Heck my TRUE120 bent my old motherboard. My next upgrade is watercooling for sure.


Cancelled my order, due to reading some test results. I don't think it's worth all the hassle just for a couple of hundred MHz more, and having to remove the heatspreaders on the Vengeance RAM.

Instead I will try to really push my 2500K using the CM Hyper 212+. I will allow temps in the mid-80's when stressing


----------



## Alex132

Ouch, this board is set to shutoff at 85'c just thought I'd let you know


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;14169256*
> Ouch, this board is set to shutoff at 85'c just thought I'd let you know


I've been over 85c for short periods, and it did not shut down.

Update: Stability testing at 4.9GHz with 49x multi now. Still with the Internal PLL Overvoltage Option Disabled! At least I got lucky with my CPU in that matter!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14169201*
> Cancelled my order, due to reading some test results. I don't think it's worth all the hassle just for a couple of hundred MHz more, and having to remove the heatspreaders on the Vengeance RAM.
> 
> Instead I will try to really push my 2500K using the CM Hyper 212+. I will allow temps in the mid-80's when stressing


From all the test results ive read, the thermalright silver arrow gives lower temps than the NH-D14, especially with very high wattage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;14169256*
> Ouch, this board is set to shutoff at 85'c just thought I'd let you know


Ive been to 97*C with this:








Then i crapped myself and manually shutdown. And i was using stock settings. I guess the box's walls kept the heat in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14169273*
> Update: Stability testing at 4.9GHz with 49x multi now. Still with the Internal PLL Overvoltage Option Disabled! At least I got lucky with my CPU in that matter!


What settings?


----------



## ramdisk

Sign me up
P8P67 Deluxe


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14169388*
> From all the test results ive read, the thermalright silver arrow gives lower temps than the NH-D14, especially with very high wattage.
> 
> Ive been to 97*C with this:
> Then i crapped myself and manually shutdown. And i was using stock settings. I guess the box's
> 
> walls kept the heat in.
> 
> What settings?


Here you go...

I have undervolted VCCSA, VCCIO and CPU PLL. Also, as I've said, Internal PLL Overvoltage is still Disabled. Offset is + 0.13 or something...










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramdisk;14169419*
> Sign me up
> P8P67 Deluxe


Welcome







*Added to the Owners list*


----------



## turrican9

According to ASUS Probe II, CPU temp is max 72c. And here the treshold is 85c. But Clearly not the Core temps. Only shows one CPU temp, similar to that CPU temp showed in HWInfo32, below the Nuvoton NCT6776F...

I'm on Beta 1850 Bios.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


According to ASUS Probe II, CPU temp is max 72c. And here the treshold is 85c. But Clearly not the Core temps. Only shows one CPU temp, similar to that CPU temp showed in HWInfo32, below the Nuvoton NCT6776F...

I'm on Beta 1850 Bios.


BIOS 1850 is listed on ASUS support, so would it still be beta? And is there any benefit over 1606?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14170687*
> BIOS 1850 is listed on ASUS support, so would it still be beta? And is there any benefit over 1606?


It is listed as Beta at Asus Download.

Nahh... have not seen much diiference..

btw: What is your max stable 12 hour + Blend stable clock, temps and load Vcore.. ?


----------



## mothow

Add me i just went and bought a P8Z68-V Pro and so far it blows away the P67 Sabertooth its replacing.Even though i really never got to use the Sabertooth to its full potential due to the board having booting issues.Anyway the P8Z68-V Pro is a great board and im very impressed with it.I just gotta figure out what to do with the replacemnt P67 Sabertooth ill get back from Asus.

Now can anyone suggest what i should and shouldnt run on this board as far Virtu control and SSD Cache etc.It seems like a lot of software that i dont really need


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mothow;14170916*
> Add me i just went and bought a P8Z68-V Pro and so far it blows away the P67 Sabertooth its replacing.Even though i really never got to use the Sabertooth to its full potential due to the board having booting issues.Anyway the P8Z68-V Pro is a great board and im very impressed with is one.I just gotta figure out what to do with the replacemnt board ill get back from Asus.
> 
> Now can anyone suggest what i should and shouldnt run on this board as far Virtu control and SSD Cache etc.It seems like a lot of software that i dont really need


Welcome







*Added you to the Owners List*


----------



## tyler2424

Sign me up. I just built my first Intel build. I have an i7 2600K on a P8Z68-V PRO.


----------



## diddly3000

hey lads i just got my b3 board this week after 3 weeks of waitin









when i got it first thing i did was went to update the bios.
on asus site i choosed the rev 3 p8p67 board and downloaded the bios but it wont update says image integrity check failed??
my current bios is 1502. now i noticed that on asus site if i choose the normal pro board not the b3 one i get the same bios i have in the list for the normal one.

so my question is why does my board not have any bios version from the list for the b3 model on the asus site???
and why is my current bios on the list for the normal asus p8p67 pro from asus site?????


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diddly3000;14175083*
> hey lads i just got my b3 board this week after 3 weeks of waitin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when i got it first thing i did was went to update the bios.
> on asus site i choosed the rev 3 p8p67 board and downloaded the bios but it wont update says image integrity check failed??
> my current bios is 1502. now i noticed that on asus site if i choose the normal pro board not the b3 one i get the same bios i have in the list for the normal one.
> 
> so my question is why does my board not have any bios version from the list for the b3 model on the asus site???
> and why is my current bios on the list for the normal asus p8p67 pro from asus site?????


from Asus site: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8P67_PRO_REV_31/#download They have Beta BIOS 1850, BIOS 1704, and BIOS 0105 which is the one you have (first release) So I'm not really following what you are trying to say. BTW, make sure you are not mixing P8P67 Pro BIOS files with P8P67 Pro 3.1


----------



## diddly3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;14177135*
> from Asus site: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8P67_PRO_REV_31/#download They have Beta BIOS 1850, BIOS 1704, and BIOS 0105 which is the one you have (first release) So I'm not really following what you are trying to say.


my bios is the 1502 from here http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8P67%20PRO&p=1&s=39&os=30&hashedid=HMMvTCuBcZLfu2YL
not the 0105 bios.
i have an asus p8p67 pro b3 board on asus driver downloads site their is 2 p8p67 pro boards one is just p8p67 pro and the other is p8p67 pro (rev3.1)
i just wanted to know what the difference is between them, should my bios not be under the p8p67 pro (rev3.1) section??


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diddly3000;14177187*
> my bios is the 1502 from here http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8P67%20PRO&p=1&s=39&os=30&hashedid=HMMvTCuBcZLfu2YL
> not the 0105 bios.
> i have an asus p8p67 pro b3 board on asus driver downloads site their is 2 p8p67 pro boards one is just p8p67 pro and the other is p8p67 pro (rev3.1)
> i just wanted to know what the difference is between them, should my bios not be under the p8p67 pro (rev3.1) section??


I'm sorry, I got confused with all the BIOS numbers LOL. So which BIOS are you trying to update to? If your BIOS is 1502 you have a P8P67 Pro 3.0 mobo (not 3.1) So you should only update BIOS from your 3.0 version. If you try a 3.1 BIOS you are going to get an error. The difference between the 3.0 and the 3.1 version is that the 3.0 has NEC USB 3.0 Controllers, and the 3.1 has ASMedia USB 3.0 controllers, thats why you should make sure you are getting the right BIOS for the board that you have.

I believe the confusion starts with the labeling on this P67 motherboars, so many versions and revisions. Both motherboards (3.0 and 3.1) are the new B3 revision (the latest revision where they fixed the issues that they had with the first boards) 3.0 and 3.1 are just different on the company providing the USB 3.0 controller.


----------



## diddly3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;14177316*
> I'm sorry, I got confused with all the BIOS numbers LOL. So which BIOS are you trying to update to? If your BIOS is 1502 you have a P8P67 Pro 3.0 mobo (not 3.1) So you should only update BIOS from your 3.0 version. If you try a 3.1 BIOS you are going to get an error. The difference between the 3.0 and the 3.1 version is that the 3.0 has NEC USB 3.0 Controllers, and the 3.1 has ASMedia USB 3.0 controllers, thats why you should make sure you are getting the right BIOS for the board that you have


thank god you sorted that out lol i was confused why my motherboard didn't have the bios from the rev3.1 section.
i was getting confused because i thought all new revision boards had new bios.
on asus site i thought the p8p67 pro section was for the boards with the fault and the p8p67 pro (rev3.1) section was for the revised boards.
its soo hard to explain without sounding nuts lol thanks for clearing that up for me


----------



## Alex132

It's weird, I can't even get 100.01 overclock on the Bclk when using anything from the x45 to my max of x51 multi. Low max multi sadly








What's weird, when I change the Bclk the motherboard doesn't even post. It just goes through the RAM, GPU, CPU LED's and gets to the Mobo LED and just dies.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diddly3000;14177368*
> thank god you sorted that out lol i was confused why my motherboard didn't have the bios from the rev3.1 section.
> i was getting confused because i thought all new revision boards had new bios.
> on asus site i thought the p8p67 pro section was for the boards with the fault and the p8p67 pro (rev3.1) section was for the revised boards.
> its soo hard to explain without sounding nuts lol thanks for clearing that up for me


No problem, I think Asus got a lot of people confused with the revision B3 and version 3.0 and 3.1 LOL


----------



## diddly3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;14178025*
> no problem, i think asus got a lot of people confused with the revision b3 and version 3.0 and 3.1 lol


yeah me lol


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tyler2424;14173899*
> Sign me up. I just built my first Intel build. I have an i7 2600K on a P8Z68-V PRO.


*Added* Welcome to the Club mate


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


btw: What is your max stable 12 hour + Blend stable clock, temps and load Vcore.. ?


Even though i spent a lot of time trying different things with my 24/7 OCs(including GPU), i haven't actually tried to find my max stable clock. But if i were to try and find my max stable clock, i wouldn't go over 1.5V unless it periodically hit that when it's not under load. But i do know that the average core temp will be ~83*C(ambient ~19*C) with 1.48V after one hour of Prime95 Small FFTs.

Also, people should mention their ambient temperature every time they show their core temps. It makes a big difference when comparing your temps with others.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alex132*


It's weird, I can't even get 100.01 overclock on the Bclk when using anything from the x45 to my max of x51 multi. Low max multi sadly








What's weird, when I change the Bclk the motherboard doesn't even post. It just goes through the RAM, GPU, CPU LED's and gets to the Mobo LED and just dies.


List all your BIOS/OC settings so we can help you better. It could be you got unlucky with your CPU


----------



## TwoCables

I'm ready to be added! My upgrade is complete and everything is working perfectly so far!

However, I cannot install AI Suite no matter what (I can provide screenshots of the errors I am getting). So, I have one question right now: is there anything that AI Suite can do that cannot be done in the UEFI?

(oh, and I have not overclocked yet)


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14186664*
> I'm ready to be added! My upgrade is complete and everything is working perfectly so far!
> 
> However, I cannot install AI Suite no matter what (I can provide screenshots of the errors I am getting). So, I have one question right now: is there anything that AI Suite can do that cannot be done in the UEFI?
> 
> (oh, and I have not overclocked yet)


I believe there is AI suite patch at ASUS support page which should fix that problem.

LINK: http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8P67+EVO&p=1&s=39
it will be under Utilities section


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14186773*
> I believe there is AI suite patch at ASUS support page which should fix that problem.
> 
> LINK: http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8P67+EVO&p=1&s=39
> it will be under Utilities section


That worked. Thank you!









Although, it's my fault because when I saw that this is a patcher (I downloaded it yesterday), I didn't even bother to read its description; I just assumed it was supposed to be installed after installing AI Suit II.

Lesson learned.


----------



## iPodder

Just got my p8p67 pro today, along with 8gb of kingston hyperx memory. Just have to wait until tomorrow for my 2500k. My power supply has two 4 pin connectors, will using just one suffice?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodder;14187352*
> Just got my p8p67 pro today, along with 8gb of kingston hyperx memory. Just have to wait until tomorrow for my 2500k. My power supply has two 4 pin connectors, will using just one suffice?


If you're not going to overclock, then it should. However, I recommend using both 4 pin CPU power cables if you plan on overclocking.

*Edit:* on second thought, give yourself the peace of mind and use both 4 pin connectors regardless.


----------



## ferencziffra

Hello, I just got an Asus P8P67-M Pro. Being a newbie in building PCs from scratch, I was especially careful to not fry the mobo somehow, grounding myself, etc. Although I noticed a smell coming from the board which is not very strong, has a little hint of the smell of something burning. Or at least reminded me of that smell. Is this the so called "no mobo/electronics smell" or is something wrong with the board? Also could anyone give me tips on how to handle this thing cause it's really difficult for me touching it *only* by the corners and I might have unvoluntarily put a finger or two on its back, felt some of those spiky things there. Have I done anything to my mobo?

EDIT: Forgot to mention, I haven't actually built the system with it yet. I was just taking a look at it and put it back in its anti-static bag till my other parts arrive.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodder;14187352*
> Just got my p8p67 pro today, along with 8gb of kingston hyperx memory. Just have to wait until tomorrow for my 2500k. My power supply has two 4 pin connectors, will using just one suffice?


you mean the 4-pin power connectors? you are supposed to use both, they plug in right next to the CPU socket. Onto the motherboard you need to connect the 24-pin ATX power connector, and the two 4-pin connectors to supply power to the mobo


----------



## iPodder

The user manual says that the p8p67 pro only supports one 4 pin or one 8 pin connector; can I overclock safely with only one 4 pin connector?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ferencziffra;14187426*
> Hello, I just got an Asus P8P67-M Pro. Being a newbie in building PCs from scratch, I was especially careful to not fry the mobo somehow, grounding myself, etc. Although I noticed a smell coming from the board which is not very strong, has a little hint of the smell of something burning. Or at least reminded me of that smell. Is this the so called "no mobo/electronics smell" or is something wrong with the board? Also could anyone give me tips on how to handle this thing cause it's really difficult for me touching it *only* by the corners and I might have unvoluntarily put a finger or two on its back, felt some of those spiky things there. Have I done anything to my mobo?


It's probably just a normal smell because it's new. It's most certainly not because you may have accidentally touched the board somewhere other than the edges of the PCB.

For example: I handled mine much less carefully than you did, and mine is running _beautifully_. I actually had to touch the back quite a bit in order to successfully install the Thermaltake Frio.

Besides, these boards are much tougher than previous generations (like say a socket 775 board or something older than that).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodder;14187449*
> The user manual says that the p8p67 pro only supports one 4 pin or one 8 pin connector; can I overclock safely with only one 4 pin connector?


Try to use both. Trust me.









My PSU has two 4-pin CPU connectors and mine both fit.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ferencziffra;14187426*
> Hello, I just got an Asus P8P67-M Pro. Being a newbie in building PCs from scratch, I was especially careful to not fry the mobo somehow, grounding myself, etc. Although I noticed a smell coming from the board which is not very strong, has a little hint of the smell of something burning. Or at least reminded me of that smell. Is this the so called "no mobo/electronics smell" or is something wrong with the board? Also could anyone give me tips on how to handle this thing cause it's really difficult for me touching it *only* by the corners and I might have unvoluntarily put a finger or two on its back, felt some of those spiky things there. Have I done anything to my mobo?
> 
> EDIT: Forgot to mention, I haven't actually built the system with it yet. I was just taking a look at it and put it back in its anti-static bag till my other parts arrive.


You should always be carefull handling any piece of hardware, make sure you always touch your power supply before handling any hardware (while its plugged) and make sure you are not standing on carpe (creates static) other than that you should be safe, I've never had a problem with motherboards this way, and I put them on my lap to install coolers, etc, and I touch the back. For added safety, you can always buy on of those wrists bands for static discharges.


----------



## ferencziffra

Thanks. Thought so myself but being so inexperienced I can't recognise normal from trouble yet. And yes, I touch PSU or metal part of the case whenever I handle any electronics.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodder;14187449*
> The user manual says that the p8p67 pro only supports one 4 pin or one 8 pin connector; can I overclock safely with only one 4 pin connector?


Definitely use 8 connectors but put them in good that they have good conection







if you have all 8 pins you put less stress on the wires.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14186664*
> I'm ready to be added! My upgrade is complete and everything is working perfectly so far!
> 
> However, I cannot install AI Suite no matter what (I can provide screenshots of the errors I am getting). So, I have one question right now: is there anything that AI Suite can do that cannot be done in the UEFI?
> 
> (oh, and I have not overclocked yet)


Welcome to the Club mate







*Added you to the list*

And congrats with your Sandybridge system and your excellent choice of motherboard. I'm sure you will enjoy it just as much as I and others enjoy the ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 series of motherboards









btw: I know I have been changing Club signatures and Club names alot of times, Lol.. However, I have made two signatures now which I find nice. Also, feel free to post Signature suggestions..

Here they are..

*Signature 1 -* *>>The Official ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Club>>*


PHP:


[B][I][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]>>The Official ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Club>>[/URL][/I][/B]

*Signature 2 -* *>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>*


PHP:


[B][I][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>[/URL][/I][/B]


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14188006*
> Welcome to the Club mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Added you to the list*


Thank you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14188006*
> And congrats with your Sandybridge system and your excellent choice of motherboard. I'm sure you will enjoy it just as much as I and others enjoy the ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 series of motherboards


Thank you! I'm already enjoying it quite a bit. This upgrade is more than I expected.







:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14188006*
> btw: I know I have been changing Club signatures and Club names alot of times, Lol.. However, I have made two signatures now which I find nice. Also, feel free to post Signature suggestions..
> 
> Here they are..
> 
> *Signature 1 -* *>>The Official ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Club>>*
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [B][I][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]>>The Official ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Club>>[/URL][/I][/B]
> 
> *Signature 2 -* *>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>*
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [B][I][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>[/URL][/I][/B]


I like the second one better because the first one is very specific by saying "P8P67 *Pro*". I mean, if this thread is for anyone who owns a P8P67 or P8Z68 board of some kind (be it entry level, Pro, EVO, Deluxe, etc.), then I think the signature should be that general. Plus, it matches this thread's title.

However, I'll be hesitant on adding anything like this to my sig because I like to reserve as much room as possible for my own little things.







I sometimes reach the extreme limits of the allowed signature size.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14188790*
> Thank you!
> 
> Thank you! I'm already enjoying it quite a bit. This upgrade is more than I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> I like the second one better because the first one is very specific by saying "P8P67 *Pro*". I mean, if this thread is for anyone who owns a P8P67 or P8Z68 board of some kind (be it entry level, Pro, EVO, Deluxe, etc.), then I think the signature should be that general. Plus, it matches this thread's title.
> 
> However, I'll be hesitant on adding anything like this to my sig because I like to reserve as much room as possible for my own little things.


Hi, the Reason I still keep the P8P67 PRO signature as an Option, is because most people in this Club are owners of that motherboard, it is probably the worlds most popular P67 board, and the Club was originally started only for this mobo







Still, there is that other signature, including all, and same as Club name


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14188814*
> Hi, the Reason I still keep the P8P67 PRO signature as an Option, is because most people in this Club are owners of that motherboard, it is probably the worlds most popular P67 board, and the Club was originally started only for this mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, there is that other signature, including all, and same as Club name


Oh! It's just that I used to participate in the Gigabyte EP45-UD3* Series Owners Guide (which is more of a club/discussion thread), so that's where I am coming from.


----------



## John-117

Can I ask the owners club a question?
I got my 2600k recently and need a good board. The thing is, I want to connect my pc to my Onkyo receiver via optical.
I know that the P8Z68-Pro and Deluxe have DTS Surround Sensation UltraPC. But can someone check if maybe the onboard card can output DTS Interactive.
It would save me the trouble (and cost) of getting a soundcard.

Please can someone anser me because I want to get the mobo today!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14188916*
> Oh! It's just that I used to participate in the Gigabyte EP45-UD3* Series Owners Guide (which is more of a club/discussion thread), so that's where I am coming from.


Well, feel free to discuss things in this Club also









I noticed something pretty sick yesterday.. I added a music folder to the library in Mediaplayer... Oh my God how fast it did it! When Compared to my [email protected] it was super-fast!

Let me tell you, these 2500K/2600K's are totally insane









Only 'complaint' I have is that it's almost too easy to overclock. No more FSB, GTL, NB Volt and other tweaking. It's so easy, just up the multi and find the Vcore you need









Now I wonder If you got a Good 2500K. I god a bad/Mediocre overclocker. It needs ~1.368v (min. 1.360v) on Prime95 Blend load in order to be 12 hours + stable. For 4.7GHz I need about 1.44v Vcore and for 4.8 it would need closer to 1.5v Vcore to be 12 hours + Blend stable.

However, I'm happy with 4.5GHz for 24/7 speed, and have nice temps. But many people got luckier than me and get 4.8GHz at the same Vcore I need for 4.5GHz.

There is one thing that makes my CPU a little special though, I have tested it up to 49x multi with the Internal PLL Overvoltage option Disabled. Most need it enabled in order to boot Windows at 48x multi.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14189159*
> Only 'complaint' I have is that it's almost too easy to overclock. No more FSB, GTL, NB Volt and other tweaking. It's so easy, just up the multi and find the Vcore you need


Even my Grandmother can do it









I think that it's better this way - LOVE THE SANDY


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14189159*
> Well, feel free to discuss things in this Club also


I've noticed.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14189159*
> I noticed something pretty sick yesterday.. I added a music folder to the library in Mediaplayer... Oh my God how fast it did it! When Compared to my [email protected] it was super-fast!
> 
> Let me tell you, these 2500K/2600K's are totally insane


Yeah, I'm finding the same to be true. I finally played Crysis 2 for the first time with nothing but my GTX 470 overclocked to 760 core, and it looked like it was unable to go below ~30 FPS! Previously, it was dipping way down into the teens way too often. I've never had this much fun playing Crysis 2.

I am so excited about this that I haven't even tried Crysis 1 yet. All I want to do now is get to overclocking!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14189159*
> Only 'complaint' I have is that it's almost too easy to overclock. No more FSB, GTL, NB Volt and other tweaking. It's so easy, just up the multi and find the Vcore you need


Yeah, but I think it's also kinda like a dream come true. However, I think I see one bad thing: we're a little bit less elite now because overclocking just became easier. hehe Although, it'll be nice to finally get some formerly-disinterested people into it! It'll be like, _"See?! Now isn't that awesome?!"_ lol


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

When you begin overclocking - Use Prime95 Blend for stability testing. No point in using small and Large FFT's for Sandy. Also, when shooting for 12 hours + run, be sure to check the rules in the Sandy Stable Club, so you can submit you're results there, else you have to run it again









Personally I don't use IBT/AVX. Blend is a much better stability test for Sandy. IBT/AVX is mostly good for heating the CPU up to insane levels, and not a very good stability test for Sandy


----------



## TwoCables

Ooo, you added some good stuff to reply to, so I'll make a new post for it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14189159*
> Now I wonder If you got a Good 2500K. I god a bad/Mediocre overclocker. It needs ~1.368v (min. 1.360v) on Prime95 Blend load in order to be 12 hours + stable. For 4.7GHz I need about 1.44v Vcore and for 4.8 it would need closer to 1.5v Vcore to be 12 hours + Blend stable.
> 
> However, I'm happy with 4.5GHz for 24/7 speed, and have nice temps. But many people got luckier than me and get 4.8GHz at the same Vcore I need for 4.5GHz.


Oh man, I sure hope I got a good one! I admit that I'm _still_ worried about it which is why I want to just get right into Auto Tuning right now, but my conscience is like _"no, play some Crysis *1* now!"_

Although, I can't ignore my initial run: I didn't know how to get AI Suite II installed, so I had a go at overclocking manually in the UEFI and I got it up to 48x (yeah, 4.8 GHz!) using 1.368-1.37something (and even 1.38something for one brief moment). It lasted two whole AVX LinX runs, but LinX stopped itself immediately when the 2nd run completed and said _"Hey, it's not stable_.", but the temperature never exceeded 80°C, not even once! Although, I had my fans at 100%.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14189159*
> There is one thing that makes my CPU a little special though, I have tested it up to 49x multi with the Internal PLL Overvoltage option Disabled. Most need it enabled in order to boot Windows at 48x multi.


lol you bastid!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14189313*
> *TwoCables*
> 
> When you begin overclocking - Use Prime95 Blend for stability testing. No point in using small and Large FFT's for Sandy. Also, when shooting for 12 hours + run, be sure to check the rules in the Sandy Stable Club, so you can submit you're results there, else you have to run it again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I don't use IBT/AVX. Blend is a much better stability test for Sandy. IBT/AVX is mostly good for heating the CPU up to insane levels, and not a very good stability test for Sandy


Oh really! Whoa... and here I thought that both AVX Linpack and Blend were the best for Sandy. So it's just Blend now while AVX Linpack is basically only good for testing your cooling? If so, then I'm glad because overclocking is finally becoming just as simple as I need it to be.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14189316*
> Oh really! Whoa... and here I thought that both AVX Linpack and Blend were the best for Sandy. So it's just Blend now while AVX Linpack is basically only good for testing your cooling? If so, then I'm glad because overclocking is finally becoming just as simple as I need it to be.


People can be 100% IBT/AVX stable, Prime 95 small and Large FFT's, but it can fail shortly in Blend.

I think it's because Blend is a system test, and Sandy has the memcontroller integrated in the Core.

IBT/AVX will run 10C higher on average VS Blend, and as I've said, not a very good stability test for Sandy. Please do not take it into consideration when finding your max overclock, due to it's unrealistic temperatures.

If you're 12 hours + Blend stable, you will not crash in anything else.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14189378*
> People can be 100% IBT/AVX stable, Prime 95 small and Large FFT's, but it can fail shortly in Blend.
> 
> I think it's because Blend is a system test, and Sandy has the memcontroller integrated in the Core.
> 
> IBT/AVX will run 10C higher on average VS Blend, and as I've said, not a very good stability test for Sandy. Please do not take it into consideration when finding your max overclock, due to it's unrealistic temperatures.
> 
> If you're 12 hours + Blend stable, you will not crash in anything else.


Whoa. Thank you for the tip, turrican9!


----------



## diddly3000

does anyone know how to get rid of the asus moblink crap from the start up?
every time on reboot it says com port not found or somethin like that.
iv tried installin drivers iv disabled it iv turned it off from start up items but it wont feck off and i cant x out of it cos it has no x. only way to remove it is drag it below taskbar and it will hide behind it then.

thanks


----------



## jach11

anyone know how to disable diskdrive? all unneeded crap at the beginning of boot? I get the Asus screen twice and its very annoying. Anyone know of any fixes?


----------



## diddly3000

turn off marvel controller if u not using them in bios/advanced/advanced tab/onboard config i think.
also turn off asus full logo i think its in same area


----------



## jach11

ight ill try that


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diddly3000;14190219*
> does anyone know how to get rid of the asus moblink crap from the start up?
> every time on reboot it says com port not found or somethin like that.
> iv tried installin drivers iv disabled it iv turned it off from start up items but it wont feck off and i cant x out of it cos it has no x. only way to remove it is drag it below taskbar and it will hide behind it then.
> 
> thanks


It's something that you installed from the CD, so it might be something that can be uninstalled in the Control Panel.

From now on, be very, very, very, very, very, very careful about what you install. Always think twice or thrice before going ahead with any installation or else this will happen again (you'll end up with something you don't want).

So when there's an option to just install everything instead of being selective, don't use it.


----------



## Subbieh

All these messages about having issue's with the Asus boards (red light etc) are kinda getting me scared about buying an ASUS one...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subbieh;14191170*
> All these messages about having issue's with the Asus boards (red light etc) are kinda getting me scared about buying an ASUS one...


Yeah, but these are just an extremely small fraction of the owners. After all, we are only going to hear from those who are having problems, so it can easily seem like "everyone" is having problems (which is true for any product in the world - especially more popular ones).


----------



## Subbieh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14191217*
> Yeah, but these are just an extremely small fraction of the owners. After all, we are only going to hear from those who are having problems, so it can easily seem like "everyone" is having problems (which is true for any product in the world - especially more popular ones).


True that, but I see far more less problems with MSI or Asrock ones though. I took a board that seemed good now (GB ) and it really is crappy on OCing and the BIOSes s*ck


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subbieh;14191315*
> True that, but I see far more less problems with MSI or Asrock ones though. I took a board that seemed good now (GB ) and it really is crappy on OCing and the BIOSes s*ck


Well, MSI and ASRock are also far less popular when it comes to motherboards (especially ASRock). ASUS has always been the first brand name that most people think of when they decide that they want to shop for motherboards. Even I still think "budget junk" when I see the name "ASRock" (I almost get the same feeling that I get when I see "ECS"). It's very difficult to change that mindset even though I know better now. The same is true for me when I see "MSI" and "motherboard" in the same sentence, except they're coming around too.

So, I say that your chances of ending up with a bad ASUS board are actually quite small.


----------



## tianlongprc

I have OC'd on my p8p67 evo/i5-2500k to 4.5mhz. I used all default bios settings and all I did was change the multiplyer to 45. It is prime stable and using the default offset mode + I get a stable 4.5 @ 1.32volts. The only problem that I have is when I am using my computer under normal use the vcore can go up to 1.39, WHY? If I prime 95 stess test it will not go above 1.32 but under normal use it goes to 1.39?? I would be thankful for any advice.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tianlongprc*


I have OC'd on my p8p67 evo/i5-2500k to 4.5mhz. I used all default bios settings and all I did was change the multiplyer to 45. It is prime stable and using the default offset mode + I get a stable 4.5 @ 1.32volts. The only problem that I have is when I am using my computer under normal use the vcore can go up to 1.39, WHY? If I prime 95 stess test it will not go above 1.32 but under normal use it goes to 1.39?? I would be thankful for any advice.


This is because of the Load Line Calibration. Try setting it to Ultra high, then set Vcore to Offset + 0.02 or what you need to reach 1.32v on your CPU. You have to test this. Also disable the C3/C6 detection in bios, to avoid Idle BSOD.


----------



## diddly3000

my board oc'd my cpu to 4.5ghz i dont know enough about overclocking to do it manually and i just find it scary lol
is the auto tuning safe i guess is my question ha


----------



## tianlongprc

Thank you for the info. I actually have just stumbled upon the best settings I have seen so far. I updated to the newest bios and I am running prime 95 right now, I am 1.5 hours into the stress test stable at 4.5mhz @ 1.25vcore. I can not believe it. If it can stay stable then I will create a thread on my settings.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *diddly3000*


my board oc'd my cpu to 4.5ghz i dont know enough about overclocking to do it manually and i just find it scary lol
is the auto tuning safe i guess is my question ha


The fast Auto tuning is safe. You gotta watch the Extreme Autotuning, as it can go crazy on the Vcore. Stop it when you feel the Vcore and temps are going too far.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tianlongprc*


Thank you for the info. I actually have just stumbled upon the best settings I have seen so far. I updated to the newest bios and I am running prime 95 right now, I am 1.5 into the stress test stable at 4.5mhz @ 1.25vcore. I can not believe it. If it can stay stable then I will create a thread on my settings.


Seems like you got a lucky 2500K







Congrats


----------



## tianlongprc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *diddly3000*


my board oc'd my cpu to 4.5ghz i dont know enough about overclocking to do it manually and i just find it scary lol
is the auto tuning safe i guess is my question ha


It is not scary I am a noob too when it comes to OC'ing.

I personally would not use auto tuning. I used I first built my computer but it was terrible. So NO DO NOT USE IT lol. There are really good guide on here and I might be making one later today.


----------



## diddly3000

mine is 4.5 now whats the stress test you guys use all i really use is the cinebench


----------



## tianlongprc

alot of people use prime 95 but there are other out there.

One of the reasons I said not to use auto tune is when I used auto tune it changed my bus speed to 103. I had stability issues and it also affected my GPU performance.


----------



## diddly3000

what are important tings to change when ocing. or have i to fiddle with everything? cos their is lots of **** in bios for tuning and its a bit daunting lol


----------



## tianlongprc

I am making a new guide right now. I do not know if it will work for everyone but it is very simple to do.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...-5-oc-1-a.html


----------



## Jonny G.

sign me up please! Asus P8P67 PRO REV 3.0 here









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1905662


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *diddly3000*


what are important tings to change when ocing. or have i to fiddle with everything? cos their is lots of **** in bios for tuning and its a bit daunting lol


This guide gave me the confidence to start overclocking my 2600k.


----------



## Anglis

Just built my computer tonight!

Asus P8P67 Deluxe here!


----------



## GRat

Just got my asus P8Z68 deluxe with a 2500k
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1905839
[email protected]
Let me join!


----------



## GRat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GRat;14197078*
> Just got my asus P8Z68 deluxe with a 2500k
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1905839
> [email protected]
> Let me join!


[email protected] http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1905861


----------



## diddly3000

any suggestions on how long i should run prime95 for im running it last 20 mins now cpu temp is hovering between 56-57 is that good cpuz reads 4429.5ghz and 1.312v


----------



## diddly3000

i ran intel burn test for 20 runs on high stress settings from the preset and passed
max temp i recorded was 65c cpu z recorded 4430.3 1.312v is this good?
also i think i could get cooler temp than 65c because my side pannel is off because i cant get it on with the antec h20 620 fitted


----------



## diddly3000

i ran intel burn test for 20 runs on high stress settings from the preset and passed
max temp i recorded was 65c cpu z recorded 4430.3 1.312v is this good?
also i think i could get cooler temp than 65c because my side pannel is off because i cant get it on with the antec h20 620 fitted









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1905963


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diddly3000;14197904*
> i ran intel burn test for 20 runs on high stress settings from the preset and passed
> max temp i recorded was 65c cpu z recorded 4430.3 1.312v is this good?
> also i think i could get cooler temp than 65c because my side pannel is off because i cant get it on with the antec h20 620 fitted


No need to double post, just click on the edit button if your the last poster









Running prime for a minimum of 12hours can ensure complete stability, it has been noted that Prime blend offers the best testing method for sandybridge. Take a quick look at the Sandy Stable Club for reference. I've compiled a spreadsheet that can be useful to you


----------



## Ap0llo

Hello everyone!

Can I use the Smart Response Technology without reformatting my mechanical hard drive, cause I've already installed my OS in it? I mean, can I just plug in my SSD then use the IRST utility after? Thanks!


----------



## diddly3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14197939*
> No need to double post, just click on the edit button if your the last poster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running prime for a minimum of 12hours can ensure complete stability, it has been noted that Prime blend offers the best testing method for sandybridge. Take a quick look at the Sandy Stable Club for reference. I've compiled a spreadsheet that can be useful to you


sorry about the double post lol

nice spreadsheet








what is a good oc for an air cooler i'd like to run 4.7 i dont think i could reach a 5 lol


----------



## Akehage

So is there coming a new BIOS this week as expected? Im waiting with patience!


----------



## aryuautku

I have a P8P67 Vanilla.

Count me in!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diddly3000;14197708*
> any suggestions on how long i should run prime95 for im running it last 20 mins now cpu temp is hovering between 56-57 is that good cpuz reads 4429.5ghz and 1.312v


Run Prime95 Custom Blend using 7168MB of memory for at least 12 hours.


----------



## neonraver

Any opinions on the new 1850 BIOS update for the P8P67 Pro? All I've seen are people bricking their boards and having problems updating. Should I leave it as it is because i'm having no problems whatsoever on the 1606 BIOS. Is there a reason I should update? Performance increase maybe?


----------



## Akehage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neonraver;14198866*
> Any opinions on the new 1850 BIOS update for the P8P67 Pro? All I've seen are people bricking their boards and having problems updating. Should I leave it as it is because i'm having no problems whatsoever on the 1606 BIOS. Is there a reason I should update? Performance increase maybe?


Where have you seen that it got boards bricked? I havent tested this one yet, waiting for the new BIOS that should be out this week. So wait for the official one as I am doing!


----------



## Alex132

Staying on 1606 until I need to move.


----------



## pioneerisloud

How are you guys updating the BIOS? I have the latest beta BIOS, and the UPDATER.exe, but its obviously a DOS program.







No clue what to do at this point.

I'm on 1305 right now. No issues, but it seems that it "improves system stability", and I'd like to be stable with lesser volts like I was on my Biostar.


----------



## Alex132

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s0TrScwdoE[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## Akehage

Do not update via the software, do it using a fat32-formated usbstick and then enter BIOS via the ez flash tool. If you have that one?


----------



## pioneerisloud

I just used the EZFlash as in the video. Didn't read my burned CD, but I found the new BIOS right off my desktop though. Nice!

Didn't help though.







Seems my chip just took some burn in I guess (I've read of others having that issue). I used to run 5GHz, 1.40v on my Biostar board. Well 4.86GHz (same BCLK I'm on for 4.66) BSOD'd like 2 seconds in with 1.45v, even with the new BIOS. So yeah, my chip is just not as good as it was originally.


----------



## Akehage

@pioneerisloud. Havent read the whole thread here, so not familiar with your problem. But have your cpu been degraded? And why is that, have you run it on very high voltage or so?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonny G.*


sign me up please! Asus P8P67 PRO REV 3.0 here









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1905662



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anglis*


Just built my computer tonight!

Asus P8P67 Deluxe here!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *GRat*


Just got my asus P8Z68 deluxe with a 2500k
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1905839
[email protected]
Let me join!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *aryuautku*


I have a P8P67 Vanilla.

Count me in!










Welcome







*Added you guys*


----------



## grunion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Yeah, but these are just an extremely small fraction of the owners. After all, we are only going to hear from those who are having problems, so it can easily seem like "everyone" is having problems (which is true for any product in the world - especially more popular ones).


This is an interesting statement.

I start a new job on Mon, been interviewing/testing for the past 2 weeks.

Anyway a comment by my interviewer was as follows.

"We handle 30k Asus component level returns per month, worldwide we do about 150k"

Component level being mobos, gpus, and monitors.
I should have some solid numbers in a few weeks, of course I won't disclose anything that will jeopardize my job.


----------



## TwoCables

*UPDATE:*

It is 2:23 PM Central Time, and Prime95's Blend test is still going! So that's 10Â½ hours stable so far!

*Original Post:*
Overclocking is going very well so far! I am approaching the 10th hour of a planned 12-hour Prime95 Blend run (9Â½ hours at 1:21 PM Central Time), and my temps have not even exceeded 70Â°C! The highest temp so far is 69Â°C.







I have both of my fans on my Thermaltake Frio at about 2000 RPM (their max capability is ~2500 RPM). Here are the fans I have:

http://www.svc.com/y720dcd-25t1-gp.html (I think that these fans are _awesome_, except now I want to remove their blue LEDs - or change them to white ones somehow)

My ambient is roughly 22.22Â°C.

I'm testing 4.7 GHz (100.0MHz x 47) with 1.352V vCore. Actually, the vCore is mostly at 1.352V according to CPU-Z, but I'm also occasionally seeing 1.344V and 1.360V.

Here are my settings in order from top to bottom in Ai Tweaker (I uninstalled AI Suite II):

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 47
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled (I may just leave it enabled because I'm going to try 4.8 GHz after this)
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High (using Extreme results in a little bit of vRise)
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 360
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Manual Mode
*CPU Manual Voltage:* 1.365V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15_something_ (I think it's like 1.15625, but I can't quite remember - it might even be 1.14something right now - I apologize for not being sure)
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

I apologize for not having screenshots, but I didn't know that these settings would cause Prime95's Blend test to last this long!
*

diddly3000:*

I recommend overclocking manually in either the UEFI itself, or with AI Suite II.

If you want to install AI Suite II, then do this:

Attempt to install AI Suite II (it should fail the installation, but if it succeeds, then skip the 2 steps below)
If it fails, then at this point install the "Patcher" (only install this _after _you attempt to install AI Suite II, and only if it fails)
Reboot when prompted, and then attempt to install AI Suite II again
Now, my personal preference is to avoid AI Suite II because it adds like 15+ (perhaps ~17) processes in the backghround, and I'm _very _'OCD' about the number of processes I have running because I have worked very hard to minimize it. Currently, my average in Win7 Home Premium x64 SP1 is about 30-32 while idling! After installing AI Suite II, it went up to about 48-49 processes while idling. *Note:* I am going by the number that Task Manager shows in its status bar (on the bottom-left of its window). Even after uninstalling AI Suite II and rebooting, I still had to go into Services.msc and disable the 3 services that are related to AI Suite II which were still causing me to have like 10 extra processes in the background!

I also tried Auto Tuning, but it was pathetic because it wouldn't go much farther than 4.5-4.6 GHz. Plus, I think that it wasn't working correctly for me. I mean, it thought that it was using a BCLK of 4.2 MHz (yeah, just 4.2 MHz), and so when it used a multiplier of 43x, it said my clock speed was 0180.6 MHz when it fact it was actually 4.429 GHz with an actual BCLK of 103 MHz. lol







It was very messed up.

There were other things it did that seemed to be very abnormal, but they're difficult to describe without screenshots. Let's just say that my experience was _nothing_ like the last several minutes of the video below:

  
 



  



 
Actually, I recommend watching this entire video several times. Watch it a few times _before_ you attempt to overclock, and then watch it a few times _after_. The more you watch it and the more you attempt to do your own overclocking in the UEFI, the easier it will be for you. You may even soon end up being able to helping others with their Sandy Bridge overclocking (you can become an expert to them)!

Oh, and there's also this guide which was written by JJ (yeah, the same guy in the above video):

Official ASUS P8P67 Series Overclocking Guide and Information (posted possibly a month or more after the above video was recorded)

I highly recommend reading this a few times too (plus, it also has new information that is not in the video).

After a little while, you will see that Sandy Bridge overclocking is [finally] very easy and simple!

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *GRat*   [email protected] http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1905861  
How stable is it? I mean, can your system withstand 12 hours of Prime95 (Blend)?

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *grunion*   This is an interesting statement.

I start a new job on Mon, been interviewing/testing for the past 2 weeks.

Anyway a comment by my interviewer was as follows.

"We handle 30k Asus component level returns per month, worldwide we do about 150k"

Component level being mobos, gpus, and monitors.
I should have some solid numbers in a few weeks, of course I won't disclose anything that will jeopardize my job.  
About 2-3 years ago, I almost had a job working for technical support for the original iPhone and everything that relates to it (it was a 3-week training course, and I got the hell out of there during the 3rd week). During the training, they warned us that we would only be handling calls from customers who are having a problem with their product whether it's with the iPhone, the iPod Touch, iTunes, Mac OSX, or perhaps just an accessory. So they said that it would eventually seem like every single customer in the entire world was having nothing but problems, except that we were only going to be hearing from an extremely small fraction of their customers (I think it was less than 1%). They warned us that we would constantly have a large call volume because of the large number of customers Apple has for the iPhone or some other related product.

I learned this near the end of my 2nd week of training (I think it was on a Thursday or a Friday), and so I got the hell out of there in the beginning of the third (and last) week. I didn't want to deal with what they were telling us we were going to be dealing with. It sounded depressing as hell, and I was already dealing with my own depression. lol


----------



## iLLGT3

Newegg said this has damage (idk how) and won't do an exchange so I am wondering if ASUS will do an exchange for me. I've had it less than a month.


----------



## Nethermir

^ i cant remember what you said when you first posted your issue. but were those burn marks in there before you installed the board? newegg is probably refusing replacement because they are thinking that the damage was caused by the user. im not sure if asus will replace that too, better call their support first.


----------



## iLLGT3

It occurred 12 hours after I got my computer built. I restarted it after doing some updates and boom.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


It occurred 12 hours after I got my computer built. I restarted it after doing some updates and boom.


I think that Newegg needs to understand this so that they can understand that they sold you a defective motherboard. So, I recommend talking to Newegg over the phone.

Failing that, I recommend trying to see if you can get ASUS on the phone instead.


----------



## iLLGT3

They said it had "physical damage" and they can process a refund. (which is what I was trying to get at first.)

I was trying to get a better p8p67.. lol


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


They said it had "physical damage" and they can process a refund. (which is what I was trying to get at first.)

I was trying to get a better p8p67.. lol


oh, so you could get a refund? lol that's even better. then get a pro version


----------



## iLLGT3

I sent it to them to get a refund. They denied it saying there was "physical damage" to the mobo.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


I sent it to them to get a refund. They denied it saying there was "physical damage" to the mobo.


At this point, I recommend calling Newegg and tell them that they sent you a "defective" motherboard (and tell them that you just want a refund). That way you should be able to get an RMA along with a prepaid shipping label.

Failing that, call ASUS and tell them that Newegg sold you a "defective" motherboard and that you just want a refund.

(it's very important to call them over the phone instead of doing e-mail or instead of doing an automatic RMA over the internet)


----------



## iLLGT3

I did an RMA over the internet and was given a prepaid label and I shipped it to them on the 1st. After the holidays, they sent me an email saying that the mobo had physcial damage and that they could not give me a refund and that I need to contact the manufacturer, ASUS.









I have a 3 year warranty from ASUS so maybe they could just do an exchange.


----------



## TwoCables

So then contact ASUS and see what they can do.


----------



## iLLGT3

That's my plan when I get it back tomorrow.


----------



## munaim1

hey cables, your overclocks looking pretty good, keep it up bud







that voltage is actually okay, I would try 1.38v and go for 4.8-5ghz. Makubex, over at the stable club managed to get his chip 5ghz stable 1.368v, you could possibly do something similar, if so then I call golden









Sorry to hear that iLLGT3, im sure ASUS will sort something out for you, good luck and let us know how it goes.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


hey cables, your overclocks looking pretty good, keep it up bud







that voltage is actually okay, I would try 1.38v and go for 4.8-5ghz. Makubex, over at the stable club managed to get his chip 5ghz stable 1.368v, you could possibly do something similar, if so then I call golden









Sorry to hear that iLLGT3, im sure ASUS will sort something out for you, good luck and let us know how it goes.


Thank you, munaim1!









Below is a post I've been working on for a few minutes in order to get all of the details correct:

It's official: my system is stable enough to pass 12 hours of Prime95's Blend test at 4.7GHz! I had to stop it in order to share the good news!




























(notice in the Real Temp screenshot that my maximum temps were 64, 69, 69, and 65! I think I'm happy)

Here are my UEFI settings (I couldn't take screenshots because every single one ended up with giant black horizontal bars):

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 47
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled (I am leaving this enabled because I'm going to try 4.8 GHz after this)
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High (using Extreme results in a little bit of vRise)
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 360
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Manual Mode
*CPU Manual Voltage:* 1.365V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V, but it likes to swing between 1.150V and 1.178V. However, it usually hovers most of the time at 1.162V and 1.165V while sometimes hitting 1.171V.
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
Again, I had both of my fans on my Thermaltake Frio at about 2000 RPM the entire time (their max capability is ~2500 RPM). Here are the fans I have:

http://www.svc.com/y720dcd-25t1-gp.html (I think that these fans are _awesome_, except now I want to remove their blue LEDs - or change them to white ones somehow)

My ambient is 70Â°F.
























Next up: 100.0MHz x 48!


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

Congrats! You're CPU needs lesser Vcore at 4.7GHz than mine needs at 4.5GHz


----------



## Shane1244

Mine is at stock for 4.5Ghz. Which is 1.300v


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14205170*
> *TwoCables*
> 
> Congrats! You're CPU needs lesser Vcore at 4.7GHz than mine needs at 4.5GHz


Really? Sweet!

Oh, and I'm sorry.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;14205711*
> Mine is at stock for 4.5Ghz. Which is 1.300v


Yeah, but that would be like me being at 4.4 GHz.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well this really bites. I updated to BIOS 1850. My overclock is no longer stable and crashes with 124 BSOD (needs more vcore). I also cannot flash back for some odd reason, it keeps saying that its not a valid EFI BIOS.

Sigh, I think I might just sell this stupid board and go back to the Biostar TP67XE. I had so much better luck with that board.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14209619*
> Well this really bites. I updated to BIOS 1850. My overclock is no longer stable and crashes with 124 BSOD (needs more vcore). I also cannot flash back for some odd reason, it keeps saying that its not a valid EFI BIOS.


This is why I never bother to flash a new BIOS.
If I'm ever going to flash then it's going to be when IVY is coming to my board


----------



## Durden

Hi all I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this however I'm going around in circles with my OC.

I have the Asus P8P67 Pro and have been enjoying using the new UEFI! I've also got a i5 2500k and have been trying my best to get a stable OC at 4.6Ghz however am having trouble keeping it stable.

I've read every guide i've been able to find however I think i've had an information overload as my heads swimming with all the information lol By all accounts a 4.6 clock should be pretty straight forward however I'm not sure if i'm being stingy with my settings or not. I understand most OC's will require alot of time and have been tweaking using little steps till i find the right medium however i just really want to throw this out now to check i'm not doing something really wrong that is causing my OC to be unstable.

Background: Finished my new build about 2 weeks back and first thing i did was run all the stability tests at stock levels. I ran a few hours of Memtest+ on each of my RAM individually as well as together. I also ran Prime95 blend for over 10 hours so I was confident that all was safe at stock.

Current OC:
I've been using numerous guides to get my current setup however as this has been causing instabilitied i decided to simplify it all and set everything that didnt matter back to Auto. So far i've got this setup:

1. AI Overclock Tuner: Manual
2. Turbo Ratio: 46
3. Internal PLL overvoltage: Disabled (From the Clunk guide and some other threads they mention this may overvolt too much and was worried about decaying the chip)
4. Load-Line CalibrationL: Extreme (Was Ultra High however Extreme managed to get it stable.. again though I'd like to lower this as having max voltages while at idle isn't ideal)
5. VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350 (Again this is just going by the general consensus as a sweet spot)
6. Phase Control: Extreme
7. Duty control: T.Probe
8. CPU Voltage: Manual Voltage
9. CPU Voltage: ~1.335V for ~4.6ghz?
10 DRAM Votlage: ~1.5V (As stated on my RAM.. also my RAM is set to auto currently)
11:Everything else is on Auto

With this setup I up the VCore up by a step (0.005+) and then run Prime95 Small FFT. This would then cause a BSOD 101 so i'd up it again and I'm currently at this setting. The last over night run i made for the above settings had my 4th core fail 4 hours in and the rest were still running fine.

So i'm all for still fine tweaking till i hit the spot although i'm abit worried going nearer and neared the dreaded 1.4V for a simple 4.6Ghz clock. Is there any setting there that i should change or am i on the right path.

Apologies for the long post and if its not the place for it i'd appreciate any help.

ps if i've got a crappier CPU i'm happy to just clock down just looking for more guidence if i'm the right track with my settings.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


Hi all I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this however I'm going around in circles with my OC.

I have the Asus P8P67 Pro and have been enjoying using the new UEFI! I've also got a i5 2500k and have been trying my best to get a stable OC at 4.6Ghz however am having trouble keeping it stable.

I've read every guide i've been able to find however I think i've had an information overload as my heads swimming with all the information lol By all accounts a 4.6 clock should be pretty straight forward however I'm not sure if i'm being stingy with my settings or not. I understand most OC's will require alot of time and have been tweaking using little steps till i find the right medium however i just really want to throw this out now to check i'm not doing something really wrong that is causing my OC to be unstable.

Background: Finished my new build about 2 weeks back and first thing i did was run all the stability tests at stock levels. I ran a few hours of Memtest+ on each of my RAM individually as well as together. I also ran Prime95 blend for over 10 hours so I was confident that all was safe at stock.

Current OC:
I've been using numerous guides to get my current setup however as this has been causing instabilitied i decided to simplify it all and set everything that didnt matter back to Auto. So far i've got this setup:

1. AI Overclock Tuner: Manual
2. Turbo Ratio: 46
3. Internal PLL overvoltage: Disabled (From the Clunk guide and some other threads they mention this may overvolt too much and was worried about decaying the chip)
4. Load-Line CalibrationL: Extreme (Was Ultra High however Extreme managed to get it stable.. again though I'd like to lower this as having max voltages while at idle isn't ideal)
5. VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350 (Again this is just going by the general consensus as a sweet spot)
6. Phase Control: Extreme
7. Duty control: T.Probe
8. CPU Voltage: Manual Voltage
9. CPU Voltage: ~1.335V for ~4.6ghz?
10 DRAM Votlage: ~1.5V (As stated on my RAM.. also my RAM is set to auto currently)
11:Everything else is on Auto

With this setup I up the VCore up by a step (0.005+) and then run Prime95 Small FFT. This would then cause a BSOD 101 so i'd up it again and I'm currently at this setting. The last over night run i made for the above settings had my 4th core fail 4 hours in and the rest were still running fine.

So i'm all for still fine tweaking till i hit the spot although i'm abit worried going nearer and neared the dreaded 1.4V for a simple 4.6Ghz clock. Is there any setting there that i should change or am i on the right path.

Apologies for the long post and if its not the place for it i'd appreciate any help.

ps if i've got a crappier CPU i'm happy to just clock down just looking for more guidence if i'm the right track with my settings.


I recommend changing Duty Control to "Extreme". If that doesn't make it stable, then I recommend leaving it on Extreme while increasing the vCore just a little bit. Failing that, increase it just a tiny bit more. Actually, always leave Duty Control on Extreme when overclocking.

If you end up getting to like 1.368V vCore and it's still not stable, then start increasing the VCCIO voltage, starting at 1.1000V, making small increments while trying to avoid exceeding about 1.2000V. Increasing the VCCIO can help enable you to use a lower vCore, or sometimes just get "a couple more MHz" without increasing the vCore.

Failing all of this, I would then recommend increasing the VRM Frequency to 360 MHz.

Failing _that_, I would then recommend enabling Internal PLL Voltage. It's safe, but it really shouldn't be needed until attempting like 100.0MHz x 48 or something big like that with the i5-2500K.

Just in case, here are my stable settings for 4.7 GHz right now (12 hours Prime95 Blend):


*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 47
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled (I am leaving this enabled because I'm going to try 4.8 GHz after this)
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz (but you should use 1600 MHz because that's what you have)
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T (but use your timings instead)
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High (using Extreme results in a little bit of vRise)
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 360
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Manual Mode
*CPU Manual Voltage:* 1.365V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V, but it likes to swing between 1.150V and 1.178V. However, it usually hovers most of the time at 1.162V and 1.165V while sometimes hitting 1.171V.
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled


----------



## jach11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well this really bites. I updated to BIOS 1850. My overclock is no longer stable and crashes with 124 BSOD (needs more vcore). I also cannot flash back for some odd reason, it keeps saying that its not a valid EFI BIOS.

Sigh, I think I might just sell this stupid board and go back to the Biostar TP67XE. I had so much better luck with that board.










i have the rev 3.1 and didnt have any problems flashing.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well this really bites. I updated to BIOS 1850. My overclock is no longer stable and crashes with 124 BSOD (needs more vcore). I also cannot flash back for some odd reason, it keeps saying that its not a valid EFI BIOS.

Sigh, I think I might just sell this stupid board and go back to the Biostar TP67XE. I had so much better luck with that board.











Hi, after I flashed from 1606 to 1704 bios I had to Disable C3/C6 to avoid Idle BSOD. Running 1850 now, not tested with C3/C6 enabled yet. I use Offset Vcore. 1502 bios was the same as 1606, could have C3/C6 enabled while Offset Vcore.

What bios did come from, and does it crash under load?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Hi, after I flashed from 1606 to 1704 bios I had to Disable C3/C6 to avoid Idle BSOD. Running 1850 now, not tested with C3/C6 enabled yet. I use Offset Vcore. 1502 bios was the same as 1606, could have C3/C6 enabled while Offset Vcore.

What bios did come from, and does it crash under load?


It came with 1305, and it was rock solid. My Biostar board clocked my chip further though for some reason, with less voltage from the get go.









Flashed from 1305 to 1850. It's a REV 3.0 board. And I think its half broke. I can't reflash back to 1305. And its BSOD'ing under normal gaming use, or just logging in and stuff (just light loads). I just BSOD'd at bone stock (x124 error code, so its vcore related).

Ugh, dunno what to do since it won't let me flash back.









And it was ROCK SOLID STABLE at 4.66GHz, 1.36v, up until I flashed. Immediately after the flash is when BSOD's started happening. Had passed 24 hours custom P95 blended at those settings before just fine, and my chip has already "burnt in".


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I recommend changing Duty Control to "Extreme". If that doesn't make it stable, then I recommend leaving it on Extreme while increasing the vCore just a little bit. Failing that, increase it just a tiny bit more. Actually, always leave Duty Control on Extreme when overclocking.

If you end up getting to like 1.368V vCore and it's still not stable, then start increasing the VCCIO voltage, starting at 1.1000V, making small increments while trying to avoid exceeding about 1.2000V. Increasing the VCCIO can help enable you to use a lower vCore, or sometimes just get "a couple more MHz" without increasing the vCore.

Failing all of this, I would then recommend increasing the VRM Frequency to 360 MHz.

Failing _that_, I would then recommend enabling Internal PLL Voltage. It's safe, but it really shouldn't be needed until attempting like 100.0MHz x 48 or something big like that with the i5-2500K.

Just in case, here are my stable settings for 4.7 GHz right now (12 hours Prime95 Blend):


*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 47
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled (I am leaving this enabled because I'm going to try 4.8 GHz after this)
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz (but you should use 1600 MHz because that's what you have)
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T (but use your timings instead)
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High (using Extreme results in a little bit of vRise)
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 360
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Manual Mode
*CPU Manual Voltage:* 1.365V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V, but it likes to swing between 1.150V and 1.178V. However, it usually hovers most of the time at 1.162V and 1.165V while sometimes hitting 1.171V.
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled


Thank you so much for the advise I really appreciate the input.

Just a few Qs i have is:

If the VCCIO is already set to AUTO will it always look to run at its lowest point... meaning more Temp/Vcore needed? I only ask as there were a few times i recieved a BSOD 124 but i just put this down to bad clock then HD.

Also with the Duty Control would you reccomend that i turn this on and then start with a lower voltage and work my way up again?

Once again thank you so much for all the input i really appreciate the help!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Durden*   Thank you so much for the advise I really appreciate the input.

Just a few Qs i have is:

If the VCCIO is already set to AUTO will it always look to run at its lowest point... meaning more Temp/Vcore needed? I only ask as there were a few times i recieved a BSOD 124 but i just put this down to bad clock then HD.  
I don't know, but I do know this: you may need to manually set the VCCIO if those other things fail. When I have VCCIO set to Auto, it seems to always stay at way less than 1.000V (0.5000V or something). Others have noticed that they can use a little bit less core voltage when they start raising the VCCIO a little bit by little bit.

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Durden*   Also with the Duty Control would you reccomend that i turn this on and then start with a lower voltage and work my way up again?  
When overclocking, the Duty Control needs to be on Extreme. I can't remember exactly how to explain it, but just set it to Extreme.









Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Durden*   Once again thank you so much for all the input i really appreciate the help!  
You're very welcome!

In addition to everything I said, I strongly recommend watching this video _several_ times:

  
 



  



 
I also recommend studying this which was written by JJ (the ASUS guy in the video above):

*Official ASUS P8P67 Series Overclocking Guide and Information*


----------



## Durden

Thats one of the guides i've been following (along with the many others!!). I just think i had information overload though if i'm honest lol Each guide all state different settings all with their own cases for why (all of which sound valid enough too) its just abit hard to pick out what is needed and what to avoid.

I mean reading some info over lunch and ppl stating that they wouldnt even recomend going over 1.35 volts for 24/7 use. I think thats abit too safe but it did get me thinking that even though this magic number of 1.4v is banded about is it safe then to be getting closer to this? I guess its all down to personal preference.

I'm going to try abit more on Friday night and hope that i can get it more stable.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


Thats one of the guides i've been following (along with the many others!!). I just think i had information overload though if i'm honest lol Each guide all state different settings all with their own cases for why (all of which sound valid enough too) its just abit hard to pick out what is needed and what to avoid.

I mean reading some info over lunch and ppl stating that they wouldnt even recomend going over 1.35 volts for 24/7 use. I think thats abit too safe but it did get me thinking that even though this magic number of 1.4v is banded about is it safe then to be getting closer to this? I guess its all down to personal preference.

I'm going to try abit more on Friday night and hope that i can get it more stable.


It's actually not down to personal preference, but instead it's down to the facts. The fact is that the maximum safe vCore is closer to 1.525, but JJ said that 1.425V is high enough for 24/7 use. JJ is Juan Jose, and he is the Senior Technical Marketing Specialist at ASUS.

If it were down to personal preference, then some people would end up frying their CPU in a matter of seconds while others would be severely limiting their overclocking potential due to a fear of exceeding 1.35V (or a preference of never exceeding it).









So if you listen to anyone and if you take anyone at their word without questioning it, then go by what Juan Jose ("JJ") says. Watch the video a few times and you'll see.









Anyway, yeah: just keep it simple.


----------



## Durden

Will do but now i know the hardforum guide is by JJ (seen the vid before but will re-watch) then i'll go more by that guide then anything else. If i remember rightly JJ says that they've gone through plenty of the i5 and i7 series chips to get their data so if the stats that are in hardforum are the results then i'm happier to go with them.

Thank you again with the help I was kinda close enough lol
Heres hoping to a stable build soon









ps can i possibly joing the club i've got an Asus p8p67 pro b3


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


ps can i possibly joing the club i've got an Asus p8p67 pro b3


Welcome, mate







*Added*


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Welcome, mate







*Added*


Thanks am glad to be in such good company







hope I can get a handle on this overclock soon!


----------



## RyanRacer48

Asus P8P67 WS Revolution. B3 of course. Just went to 1302 bios.

Haven't looked back since!


----------



## iLLGT3

On the phone now with ASUS support about my burnt mobo haha..


----------



## jach11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


On the phone now with ASUS support about my burnt mobo haha..











MY LORD








How far did you overclock?


----------



## TwoCables

_"I'll have a burnt motherboard and a rotten egg"_

_"A burnt motherboard and a rotten egg?!"_

_"Yeah. I got a tapeworm, and it's good *enough*__ for him!"_


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jach11*


MY LORD








How far did you overclock?


I didn't OC at all. It was alive for 12hrs.. I did some windows updates and upon restart, this happened.


----------



## eternal7trance

Just ordered a P8P67 Pro since newegg gave me the wrong version of this msi board.


----------



## TwoCables

If I replaced my GTX 470 with a GTX 580(particularly the ASUS Direct CU II, so 1536 MB) and kept the rest of my sig rig the same, then what kind of framerates might I get in Crysis 2?

I'm currently seeing no less than 30 FPS thanks to my Sandy Bridge upgrade, but there are small areas where I get 60 FPS and it makes 30 FPS feel very sluggish. lol Enough is never enough. I also tried disabling vSync just to see how I like it, and meh - I don't like it.

So I'd like to hear from those of you who have a similar rig as mine who have Crysis 2 with both DX11 and the High Res Textures upgrades enabled, but with a GTX 580.


----------



## iLLGT3

They are going to create an RMA label for me. I sent pictures to a support rep and he didn't seem like he wanted to help me lol

EDIT: I got the RMA email and it says that "Broken traces or burns due to improper installation / removal of other components" is not covered and I can garuntee you that ASUS, like Newegg, will consider this "physical user damage.."

Looks like I'm gonna have to buy a new P8P67..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


They are going to create an RMA label for me. I sent pictures to a support rep and he didn't seem like he wanted to help me lol


hehe I bet he was like "DO NOT WANT!"










So does this mean they're going to pay for the shipping to take it from you?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


If I replaced my GTX 470 with a GTX 580(particularly the ASUS Direct CU II, so 1536 MB) and kept the rest of my sig rig the same, then what kind of framerates might I get in Crysis 2?

I'm currently seeing no less than 30 FPS thanks to my Sandy Bridge upgrade, but there are small areas where I get 60 FPS and it makes 30 FPS feel very sluggish. lol Enough is never enough. I also tried disabling vSync just to see how I like it, and meh - I don't like it.

So I'd like to hear from those of you who have a similar rig as mine who have Crysis 2 with both DX11 and the High Res Textures upgrades enabled, but with a GTX 580.


Crysis 2 caps out at 60 fps for me with very few areas that make it drop a little. I believe I have everything cranked up and high res enabled. My monitor is 1920x1080. I will double check the settings when I get home, but I'm picky and don't like to play games with any setting turned down.


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


So does this mean they're going to pay for the shipping to take it from you?


Newegg did give me a prepaid label but ASUS did not, unfortunately.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14215836*
> If I replaced my GTX 470 with a GTX 580(particularly the ASUS Direct CU II, so 1536 MB) and kept the rest of my sig rig the same, then what kind of framerates might I get in Crysis 2?
> 
> I'm currently seeing no less than 30 FPS thanks to my Sandy Bridge upgrade, but there are small areas where I get 60 FPS and it makes 30 FPS feel very sluggish. lol Enough is never enough. I also tried disabling vSync just to see how I like it, and meh - I don't like it.
> 
> So I'd like to hear from those of you who have a similar rig as mine who have Crysis 2 with both DX11 and the High Res Textures upgrades enabled, but with a GTX 580.


GTX 470 is still a very strong card, and overclocked it rivals a GTX 570 at stock.

Why not consider GTX 470 SLI? It would bring your FPS up much more than a single GTX 580


----------



## iLLGT3

Does anybody here know what the little silver boxes just to the right of the 24 pin power connector on the P8P67 are for? They say 1R2 and a smaller one says R20. Just under the left "1R2" is where mine burned up.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14216331*
> Does anybody here know what the little silver boxes just to the right of the 24 pin power connector on the P8P67 are for? They say 1R2 and a smaller one says R20. Just under the left "1R2" is where mine burned up.


They are Coils/spoles. Storing power from the Voltage regulators before pushing power into the memory I believe...

Other opinions?


----------



## iPodder

So far I've gotten my 2500k to 4.3 ghz, adjusting only the multiplier. Am I safe leaving everything else on auto for this speed?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodder;14216378*
> So far I've gotten my 2500k to 4.3 ghz, adjusting only the multiplier. Am I safe leaving everything else on auto for this speed?


Keep an eye on the voltage because it will usually try to jump up a lot higher than it needs to.


----------



## iPodder

Hwmonitor reports the max voltage to be 1.34v, although it usually hovers around 1.3v during linx. My temps are below 65C though, so that's not a problem.


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14216377*
> They are Coils/spoles. Storing power from the Voltage regulators before pushing power into the memory I believe...
> 
> Other opinions?


Apparently I'm not the only one with this problem. I did some seraching and found some others with P8P67 boards that have burns in the exact same places. They all got new boards from ASUS but somehow, I feel I won't. My email says that burns are not under warranty.









The thing is, I did not touch one thing in the bios. Just installed Windows 7, went to bed, woke up the next morning, did some updates, did a restart and BAM.

Could it possibly be my Corsair Vengeance memory?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14211869*
> It came with 1305, and it was rock solid. My Biostar board clocked my chip further though for some reason, with less voltage from the get go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flashed from 1305 to 1850. It's a REV 3.0 board. And I think its half broke. I can't reflash back to 1305. And its BSOD'ing under normal gaming use, or just logging in and stuff (just light loads). I just BSOD'd at bone stock (x124 error code, so its vcore related).
> 
> Ugh, dunno what to do since it won't let me flash back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it was ROCK SOLID STABLE at 4.66GHz, 1.36v, up until I flashed. Immediately after the flash is when BSOD's started happening. Had passed 24 hours custom P95 blended at those settings before just fine, and my chip has already "burnt in".


I just rolled back bios. Had the 1850 bios and rolled back/flashed to the 1502 bios with success. So it is possible to flash older bioses in these boards.

However, it refused to flash the 1305 bios. EZ Flash told me the image was outdated.

Anyway, reason I rolled back is to see if I can get better stability at lower Vcore, using settings I never tried when I ran the 1502 bios, in the past.


----------



## T-bone Steak

Hello everyone, I'm looking to upgrade to Sandy soon, and have narrowed my choice of MB down to either the P8P67 Pro or the P9Z68 Pro... What's the difference, besides the Z68 being able to take advantage of the SB iGPU?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T-bone Steak;14216732*
> Hello everyone, I'm looking to upgrade to Sandy soon, and have narrowed my choice of MB down to either the P8P67 Pro or the P9Z68 Pro... What's the difference, besides the Z68 being able to take advantage of the SB iGPU?


SSD Harddrive Caching and the Lucid Virtu feature in the Z68 is the only difference. These two features are useless to most people it seems, so many people still just go with the P67 boards...


----------



## iLLGT3

What does the "MemOk!" button do? I've read on 2 seperate occasions of these fires started by someone pressing the MemOk! button. I didn't even fiddle with mine.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14216801*
> What does the "MemOk!" button do? I've read on 2 seperate occasions of these fires started by someone pressing the MemOk! button. I didn't even fiddle with mine.


MemOK! button ensures that the board will boot using safe settings for any kind of mem who have problems booting otherwise.

It will affect speed/timings. So I have a hard time believing that could be the reason for boards blowing up...


----------



## iLLGT3

Haha, I haven't the slightest clue what causes this. ASUS clearly knows of this issue because on 2 of the boards, they had reps comment asking for information so they could help customers.

You know, they should do that here.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14216801*
> What does the "MemOk!" button do? I've read on 2 seperate occasions of these fires started by someone pressing the MemOk! button. I didn't even fiddle with mine.


This is very helpful button, I've used it for a couple of times and there haven't been nothing on fire.


----------



## iLLGT3

I'm sure that's not the case for others. I'd just like to know how this happened so when I get my new one, I can make sure it doesn't happen again. I'm going to need some guidance once I get my new one in. I want to make sure all the settings are the safest possible before I start using my comp regularly.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14215956*
> Crysis 2 caps out at 60 fps for me with very few areas that make it drop a little. I believe I have everything cranked up and high res enabled. My monitor is 1920x1080. I will double check the settings when I get home, but I'm picky and don't like to play games with any setting turned down.


I'm picky in the same way, so I'm glad you are the one person who has answered so far!

So, do you mean that your max is 60 FPS (I know: it's vSync), and that your framerate only drops a _little_ in just a few areas? How much is a little? I mean, do you often see like 40-45 FPS? Or are you getting more than 50 FPS almost all the time?

I'm getting 30 FPS on average, and I'll sometimes see 40, maybe 45. Of course, I'll see a perfect 60 FPS in very small areas where nothing is happening.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14216221*
> GTX 470 is still a very strong card, and overclocked it rivals a GTX 570 at stock.
> 
> Why not consider GTX 470 SLI? It would bring your FPS up much more than a single GTX 580


I've already considered all the angles, and I've decided that I'll be happiest staying with a single-card setup.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14217824*
> I'm picky in the same way, so I'm glad you are the one person who has answered so far!
> 
> So, do you mean that your max is 60 FPS (I know: it's vSync), and that your framerate only drops a _little_ in just a few areas? How much is a little? I mean, do you often see like 40-45 FPS? Or are you getting more than 50 FPS almost all the time?
> 
> I'm getting 30 FPS on average, and I'll sometimes see 40, maybe 45. Of course, I'll see a perfect 60 FPS in small areas.
> 
> I've already considered all the angles, and I've decided that I'll be happiest staying with a single-card setup.


You've got to ask yourself this TC....

Is it worth $400-500 to get a new graphics card? It's definitely a large jump in performance from your 470 (I made the same jump myself after SB). But is it really worth the price difference over just adding another 470 in SLI?

Your rig is fully ready to handle 470 SLI, even your PSU. Just saying, it would cost a LOT less to just add another 470.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14217839*
> You've got to ask yourself this TC....
> 
> Is it worth $400-500 to get a new graphics card? It's definitely a large jump in performance from your 470 (I made the same jump myself after SB). But is it really worth the price difference over just adding another 470 in SLI?
> 
> Your rig is fully ready to handle 470 SLI, even your PSU. Just saying, it would cost a LOT less to just add another 470.


To me, it's worth it because I would much rather not have two graphics cards.

How often do you see people complaining about problems (instability and whatnot) because they went with a single-card setup instead of SLI or Crossfire?

How many people do you see complaining about problems because they added a 2nd card even though their PSU is easily handling it?

It's also rather common for people to have problems in Crysis 2 because they have an SLI or Crossfire setup.

Not only that, but I'd have to have my XtremeGamer sandwiched in between the two cards. I don't like the thought of that.









Additionally, I'd have to please my OCD nature and work hard on finding another good Golden Edition so that I don't have two different-looking cards. I'm not interested in putting that much effort into it.

Finally, adding a 2nd card would mean that I'd have to add another modular cable which means I'd have to work hard trying to squeeze it through the rectangular hole next to the PSU in the original CM 690. It's tight enough the way it is.

So that's what I meant by _"I've considered all the angles"_.

How big of a performance increase was it for you? Did you experience Crysis 2 on your 470 with DX11 and High Res Textures by chance?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, if you need a performance increase, then the 580 is a SOLID choice. My only argument is the cash. It's quite a bit of cash to put up, for the 20-30% boost over your current 470. Whereas a second 470 would be $100-150 (compared to $400-500 for a 580), and would theoretically give you 80-100% boost.

You are right though, Crysis 2 does seem to really hate multi GPU setups. But if that's your ONLY game complaint is performance on Crysis 2, then I think you're ahead of the game, and maybe should wait for the GTX 680?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14217824*
> I'm picky in the same way, so I'm glad you are the one person who has answered so far!
> 
> So, do you mean that your max is 60 FPS (I know: it's vSync), and that your framerate only drops a _little_ in just a few areas? How much is a little? I mean, do you often see like 40-45 FPS? Or are you getting more than 50 FPS almost all the time?
> 
> I'm getting 30 FPS on average, and I'll sometimes see 40, maybe 45. Of course, I'll see a perfect 60 FPS in very small areas where nothing is happening.
> 
> I've already considered all the angles, and I've decided that I'll be happiest staying with a single-card setup.


By a little I mean it may go down to the low 50s. But it doesn't happen often. Not sure why your 470 SLI setup is doing so low on that, but if that's the performance you're getting, the 580 will beat that all over the place. Also, at least if you switch, you will save room, power and heat.









I can do more testing when I get home.

Edit: Nevermind I see you only have one 470.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14218005*
> Well, if you need a performance increase, then the 580 is a SOLID choice. My only argument is the cash. It's quite a bit of cash to put up, for the 20-30% boost over your current 470. Whereas a second 470 would be $100-150 (compared to $400-500 for a 580), and would theoretically give you 80-100% boost.
> 
> You are right though, Crysis 2 does seem to really hate multi GPU setups. But if that's your ONLY game complaint is performance on Crysis 2, then I think you're ahead of the game, and maybe should wait for the GTX 680?


To be honest, I'm mainly doing this for Crysis 1 and 2 (and it sounds like I should just pull the trigger already).









When is Kepler supposed to go retail?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14218016*
> By a little I mean it may go down to the low 50s. But it doesn't happen often. Not sure why your 470 SLI setup is doing so low on that, but if that's the performance you're getting, the 580 will beat that all over the place. Also, at least if you switch, you will save room, power and heat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can do more testing when I get home.


I don't have an SLI setup.









Anyway, based on what you said here, I think I'd be happy with the upgrade even though it would cost me $479.99. lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14218032*
> To be honest, I'm mainly doing this for Crysis 1 and 2 (and it sounds like I should just pull the trigger already).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When is Kepler supposed to go retail?


Well, Crysis 1, I max it out COMPLETELY with a ton of mods at 1080p, full 16xQCSAA, and I get 36 FPS average, minimum of 30. With 4x AA (what I play at), I get about 45 average, 30 minimum. It's fully playable finally with the 580. The 470, I had to go without AA and mods.

EDIT:
And if you were to buy one, make sure its one of the cards that has a great air cooler (reference isn't BAD, but the higher coolers are better). Like the MSI Twin Frozr or Lightning, or the Asus DCII or Matrix.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14218051*
> Well, Crysis 1, I max it out COMPLETELY with a ton of mods at 1080p, full 16xQCSAA, and I get 36 FPS average, minimum of 30. With 4x AA (what I play at), I get about 45 average, 30 minimum. It's fully playable finally with the 580. The 470, I had to go without AA and mods.


Yeah, my performance in Crysis 1 is definitely better, but still _looks_ like a slide show. It's weird!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14218051*
> EDIT:
> And if you were to buy one, make sure its one of the cards that has a great air cooler (reference isn't BAD, but the higher coolers are better). Like the MSI Twin Frozr or Lightning, or the Asus DCII or Matrix.


Indeed. I'm currently thinking about ordering a DCII right now that's brand new full retail for $479.99 shipped (before the $30 Mail-In Rebate card which can later be exchanged for a check).


----------



## TwoCables

Alright, I think I talked myself into it. I'm going to order that Direct CU II for $479.99 shipped, which eventually ends up being $449.99 shipped once I get the rebate card (the "fine print" says that I can call to have it replaced with a check).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121429

I mean, it's like: I know I want to, so I need to just do it and get it over with. lol


----------



## munaim1

Three slot beast!!! lol









Could you not have find a 580 lightning or something?

*EDIT:* Not sure how much more they are lol.

*EDIT:* Scratch that, a quick google search indicated they are $500+ easiliy. Enjoy your new purchase


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14218258*
> Three slot beast!!! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you not have find a 580 lightning or something?
> 
> *EDIT:* Not sure how much more they are lol.
> 
> *EDIT:* Scratch that, a quick google search indicated they are $500+ easiliy. Enjoy your new purchase


Not only are they more expensive, but they're much harder to find right now for some reason.

Anyway, thank you! I think this is perfect timing because now I'll have at least 6-7 days to get accustomed to the gaming performance of my rig the way it is.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14218205*
> Alright, I think I talked myself into it. I'm going to order that Direct CU II for $479.99 shipped, which eventually ends up being $449.99 shipped once I get the rebate card (the "fine print" says that I can call to have it replaced with a check).
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121429
> 
> I mean, it's like: I know I want to, so I need to just do it and get it over with. lol


These Rigs, are a lot of money!
But, I've waisted a lot more money on things that never come close to the amount of hours entertainment this Rig gives me









Three Slots!
If you did want to Sli later. you could Sli it with a Two slot one!
Although I am running two, three slot cooler cards


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14218303*
> Not only are they more expensive, but they're much harder to find right now for some reason.
> 
> Anyway, thank you! I think this is perfect timing because now I'll have at least 6-7 days to get accustomed to the gaming performance of my rig the way it is.


bench's before and after would be awesome, but you don't wana make the mistake of taking requests lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

TC:
As long as you can squeeze that triple slot beast in....DO IT.







Hands down, that's one of the best single GPU cards out there (short of the MSI Lightning, Asus Matrix, and EVGA Classified).

Make sure you overclock the snot out of it.







I expect no less than 900 core, and I'd like to see you hit 1GHz core.







And don't forget to join up at the 580 OC Club.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;14218334*
> These Rigs, are a lot of money!
> But, I've waisted a lot more money on things that never come close to the amount of hours entertainment this Rig gives me


This!

I'm using money that I saved up for a new drumset (it was to be purchased last month), but then I realized that I spend almost every waking minute of my life on my computer, but only 3-6 hours per month on my drums, sometimes 12.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;14218334*
> Three Slots!
> If you did want to Sli later. you could Sli it with a Two slot one!
> Although I am running two, three slot cooler cards


Now I want to see a day where we have 4-slot cards.









But nah... I would rather not go SLI just yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14218352*
> bench's before and after would be awesome, but you don't wana make the mistake of taking requests lol


rofl! No kidding! I seriously thought I was going to do it too. hehehe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14218353*
> TC:
> As long as you can squeeze that triple slot beast in....DO IT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hands down, that's one of the best single GPU cards out there (short of the MSI Lightning, Asus Matrix, and EVGA Classified).


The tighter the better.

Ahem.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14218353*
> Make sure you overclock the snot out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I expect no less than 900 core, and I'd like to see you hit 1GHz core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And don't forget to join up at the 580 OC Club.


Mmm, 1 GHz sounds delicious. I gotta try that!!

Thank you, pio! (I couldn't possibly feel like I've thanked you enough)


----------



## KingBu745

I have an Asus P8Z68 V-Pro motherboard can I join the club?


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm seriously about to give up.

EZ Flash in BIOS reports version 1305 isn't a valid EFI BIOS.

AI Suite in Windows claims the flash is successful (from a file), but upon reboot, I'm still on 1850. Also tried shutting down instead of a reboot...same thing.

AI Suite also claims that there are no valid BIOS files available from any of the 3 servers to update (downgrade option check marked) via internet connection.

I'm out of idea's here. This BIOS has completely bricked my machine almost. It's working, but requiring 1.40v manually set (no less) to stay stable at bone stock. The ONLY thing that has changed, was the BIOS from 1305 to 1850. Two days ago, while I was on 1305, I was 110% stable at 4.66GHz, 1.36v.

This is ridiculous Asus.

Tempted to throw my board up in the marketplace for trade for a Biostar TP67XE. Only problem, is that I just bought $250 worth of RAM to go with THIS board (blue color scheme, bought high end 16GB of Ripjaw X).


----------



## henrygale

I have a P8P67 Pro and was trying to install my CPU today. How much pressure does it take to close the hinge after I place the CPU in the socket? Seems like I would have to exert too much right now...the sides of the plate made a mark on the CPU and there is sort of a faint scratching sound..is this normal? I'm a noob, first build :/


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henrygale*


I have a P8P67 Pro and was trying to install my CPU today. How much pressure does it take to close the hinge after I place the CPU in the socket? Seems like I would have to exert too much right now...the sides of the plate made a mark on the CPU and there is sort of a faint scratching sound..is this normal? I'm a noob, first build :/


If you have the CPU installed in the correct direction, then its fine. For some odd reason, it does scratch up the IHS a little tiny bit. It's normal.


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henrygale*


I have a P8P67 Pro and was trying to install my CPU today. How much pressure does it take to close the hinge after I place the CPU in the socket? Seems like I would have to exert too much right now...the sides of the plate made a mark on the CPU and there is sort of a faint scratching sound..is this normal? I'm a noob, first build :/


I had the same ill feeling when i was installing my CPU and as stated above if its all around the correct way (you can tell by the groves on the outside left i think) then it does take pressure.

The the i5 (and i7 for that matter) dont have the pins on them like the old processors did which would have just slotted into place so you will need to put some pressure on it to install it.


----------



## Wabbit16

Hi guys, I need some info quite urgently - what voltages are you guys running on your 12V rail in the BIOS? My RMA'd board is still giving hassles...I suspect my PSU since the BIOS reports I am running 10.752V on the 12V bit, which seems worryingly low.

Any input appreciated!!!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*


Hi guys, I need some info quite urgently - what voltages are you guys running on your 12V rail in the BIOS? My RMA'd board is still giving hassles...I suspect my PSU since the BIOS reports I am running 10.752V on the 12V bit, which seems worryingly low.

Any input appreciated!!!


Try downloading HWmonitor and see what it says there. HWmonitor has usually been pretty accurate for me as I used it alongside my volt meter.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*


Hi guys, I need some info quite urgently - what voltages are you guys running on your 12V rail in the BIOS? My RMA'd board is still giving hassles...I suspect my PSU since the BIOS reports I am running 10.752V on the 12V bit, which seems worryingly low.

Any input appreciated!!!


Software voltage is stupid. If your system was at 10.7v, it wouldn't even be running right now.

Grab a multimeter, hook it up to your 12v line (molex = yellow for positive, black for ground), and see for yourself.


----------



## rahat1180

Hi guys , i have a p8z68-v pro mobo . When i overclock my i7 2600k , the frequency is shown in bios but windows still shoiws 3.4ghz i dont kknow why. I am a newbie and on my old p5q pro it used to show eg 3.8ghz instead of the stock 2.4 is this normal??

Also i have read the cold boot issue but after doing everything as indicated it still shows the bios twice on boot. I called asus support in uk but there is no mobo support in uk.

WOuld be very happy if someone could help


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rahat1180*


Hi guys , i have a p8z68-v pro mobo . When i overclock my i7 2600k , the frequency is shown in bios but windows still shoiws 3.4ghz i dont kknow why. I am a newbie and on my old p5q pro it used to show eg 3.8ghz instead of the stock 2.4 is this normal??

Also i have read the cold boot issue but after doing everything as indicated it still shows the bios twice on boot. I called asus support in uk but there is no mobo support in uk.

WOuld be very happy if someone could help










If you check in Windows>system it will show 3.4GHz
Use dedicated software like CPU-Z or similar (must be load to show full OC if SpeedStep is enabled)

Have you read this?

Quote:



http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.ph...95&postcount=1
Quote:
Originally Posted by OC_Seer
Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. Iâ€™ll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.
First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.

From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to â€˜Advancedâ€™ tab -> go down to â€˜APMâ€™, press Enter -> enable the â€œPower on by PCIe.â€ function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rahat1180*


Hi guys , i have a p8z68-v pro mobo . When i overclock my i7 2600k , the frequency is shown in bios but windows still shoiws 3.4ghz i dont kknow why. I am a newbie and on my old p5q pro it used to show eg 3.8ghz instead of the stock 2.4 is this normal??

Also i have read the cold boot issue but after doing everything as indicated it still shows the bios twice on boot. I called asus support in uk but there is no mobo support in uk.

WOuld be very happy if someone could help










Maybe the 3.4Ghz that you are seeing is part of the CPU model? When you go to computer-property you will see Intel core i7 2600k 3.4Ghz (or something like it, and after that you will see you actual speed. If not, donload CPU-Z and it will show you your actual speed


----------



## Durden

rahat1180 i would download CPU-Z (http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html) and see what that says for your CPU.

You may also have speedstep enabled that would drop the speed when not under load so just open a MP3 and watch the CPU shoot up.


----------



## rahat1180

thanks guys for all your help , im gonna try cpu id , and try the api power by pci again.

God, i must say getting this z68 board up and running is prety hasslesome.

Thanks


----------



## rahat1180

guys just to confirm i have tried the enable pci e power thing. Still shows double bios. Any other ways?

thanks in advance


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rahat1180*


guys just to confirm i have tried the enable pci e power thing. Still shows double bios. Any other ways?

thanks in advance


define double BIOS. Is the computer booting twice when you first turn it on? Or you see the Asus logo appear twice while booting? For the later try disabling the marvell SATA controller, that will shorten your boot time, and probably disable the boot screen logo.


----------



## Stileth

Asus P8P67 Pro B3 here








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1906932


----------



## jach11

thats alot of volts just for 4Ghz. Running HT?


----------



## Stileth

Yes HT turned on and was running [email protected] with 8 tasks.


----------



## turrican9

Hei, Janne-Merete


----------



## Inebriated

Semi-on topic, ASUS has released beta BIOS revision 0651 that has resolved the S3 (sleep) issue that I have been experiencing. Anyone else having issues with their system waking up from sleep (P8Z68-V PRO), I would recommend going and downloading it.

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V%20PRO&os=30&hashedid=JjlGHLJGJPFfGCFA


----------



## xFyre

P8P67 owners, I call for your help! I am having a very annoying problem with my Deluxe, and can't seem to solve it no matter what I do!

The topic is here on the Intel motherboards section.

Also, I will join the club once I get this sorted out.

Thanks!


----------



## iLLGT3

As some know, my P8P67 caught fire.. (small one lol) If I have to buy a new one given that ASUS doesn't give me a new P8P67, what are the benefits of upgrading to a deluxe/pro?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


As some know, my P8P67 caught fire.. (small one lol) If I have to buy a new one given that ASUS doesn't give me a new P8P67, what are the benefits of upgrading to a deluxe/pro?


When I began my quest to upgrade to Sandy Bridge, I started by asking Overclock.net what the best 1155 motherboard is for overclocking with air cooling. I expressed my desire to have the P8P67 Deluxe because it has a 16+2 Phase Design and an 8-layer PCB. I mean, I was coming from an EP45-UD3P!

From the answers I received, I learned that the P8P67 Deluxe would be a huge waste of money for me because the only real benefit of these two specific features would be for using extreme cooling to get extreme overclocks (like much higher than just 5 GHz). I was told that the P8P67 Pro would be all I would ever need, even for reaching 5GHz with air cooling if I ended up being lucky enough to get a golden i5-2500K.

However, I bought the EVO because I absolutely love its appearance. That extra heatsink above the PCI-E slot does it for me.


----------



## iLLGT3

I'm not planning to OC much if even at all. I just want to be able to play the latest games at high to max settings. Sure, I'll probably try a small bit here and there but nothing major. I have a feeling the vanilla P8P67 is just fine for my needs but hey, I don't mind spending the extra money if it is really worth it for my particular build.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


I'm not planning to OC much if even at all. I just want to be able to play the latest games at high to max settings. Sure, I'll probably try a small bit here and there but nothing major. I have a feeling the vanilla P8P67 is just fine for my needs but hey, I don't mind spending the extra money if it is really worth it for my particular build.


Then the vanilla P8P67 is actually more than you will ever need.

The only reason to get the Pro, EVO, or Deluxe is if one of those boards has a feature or features that you need, such as some connectivity feature. Otherwise, there's absolutely no benefit.

However, if you wanted to shoot for like 4.7 GHz, then get the P8P67 Pro. Although, you'd need some good air cooling on the CPU.


----------



## Greenie77

Hi all, i just got my set up yesterday







... though i tryed to tinker with it this morning following the guide for OC on here .. some how the OC wouldnt work or pc wouldnt boot.... perhaps i didnt follow it right, anyway i am now on stock but want 4.5+ really.

i5 2500K
Asus P8P67 PRO REV 3.0 1606 bios
Corsair A70
Corsair 8GB 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Vengeance 
OCZ Vertex 2 SSD 60GB
Nvidia 460GTX 1GB
Win7 64 Ultimate


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenie77*


Hi all, i just got my set up yesterday







... though i tryed to tinker with it this morning following the guide for OC on here .. some how the OC wouldnt work or pc wouldnt boot.... perhaps i didnt follow it right, anyway i am now on stock but want 4.5+ really.

i5 2500K
Asus P8P67 PRO REV 3.0 1606 bios
Corsair A70
Corsair 8GB 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Vengeance 
OCZ Vertex 2 SSD 60GB
Nvidia 460GTX 1GB
Win7 64 Ultimate


I recommend trying these settings and then seeing what happens (this is 4.7 GHz 100.00% rock-solid stable for me):

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 47
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled (I am leaving this enabled because I'm going to try 4.8 GHz after this)
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz (but you should use whatever clock speed your memory is rated for)
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T (but use your timings instead)
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM* (exclusive to ASUS)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High (using Extreme results in a little bit of vRise)
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 360
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign: *+
*CPU Offset Voltage: *0.005V (my voltage under load according to CPU-Z hits 1.344V, 1.352V, 1.360V, and sometimes 1.368V for brief moments. 1.352V is what I see the most, and 1.360V is almost as common)
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V, but it likes to swing between 1.150V and 1.178V. However, it usually hovers most of the time at 1.162V and 1.165V while sometimes hitting 1.171V.
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

I'm currently experimenting with 48x (yeah, 4.8 GHz!! w00t!) using an offset of 0.015V, and this sucker is working so far! I just... I just can't believe it! I haven't changed any of the other settings either!!


----------



## Greenie77

tryed those settings and all i get is black screen on boot and not even a bios/load screen just hangs... after hard reset i get the screen with OC failed press f1 for set up....

same as the other options i tryed on the official thread for OC this board
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110

if i try to just set the multiplyer to 42 or 45 and all on auto, it boots but just shows as standard ghz even under steress test shows no OC.. is there sumin i am missing here??


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenie77*


tryed those settings and all i get is black screen on boot and not even a bios/load screen just hangs... after hard reset i get the screen with OC failed press f1 for set up....

same as the other options i tryed on the official thread for OC this board
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110

if i try to just set the multiplyer to 42 or 45 and all on auto, it boots but just shows as standard ghz even under steress test shows no OC.. is there sumin i am missing here??


I'm not by my pc but I think there's a newer bios than the one you are using (not the beta one!) I think it's 17xx or something. I would recommend updating to this and then trying again. The first thing I learned about overclocking was patience.. Although recently I've been losing mine lol.

I would say set a modest overclock and then leave everything on auto. Boot into bios and then see what the vcore volt is as it should give u a rough idea of where to start your manual clock. Then set manual volt and stress it. If it fail up it another notch (0.005) and try again.

Twoables: I tried your settings you recommended recently and I'm currently around the 1.365v mark and just in the process of stressing it. I'm abit bumbed out that it needs that much v for 46x









Would you agree it's worrying that I reset everything back to stock and tried the asus extreme auto tune and it crashed on me?! I mean everything was stable when I originally built the rig and now it's just not behaving.

Edit: just a quick Q what are the CPU current capabilities settings for? Also how does the offset mode for vcore work as JJ says that's the most efficient way to overclock. Many thanks in advance


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KingBu745*


I have an Asus P8Z68 V-Pro motherboard can I join the club?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stileth*


Asus P8P67 Pro B3 here








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1906932



Quote:



Originally Posted by *xFyre*


P8P67 owners, I call for your help! I am having a very annoying problem with my Deluxe, and can't seem to solve it no matter what I do!

The topic is here on the Intel motherboards section.

Also, I will join the club once I get this sorted out.

Thanks!


Welcome







*Added you guys*


----------



## eternal7trance

I just installed mine last night after replacing a bad MSI board I got. I figured I'd take a dive and get the new revision 3.1 board. It was a weird install because I had to put the SSD on a SataII port to install windows. Then I was able to install the drivers on the Asus website and I could put my SSD back in to the SataIII port.

Oh yea and before I did anything, I updated it to the 1850 bios.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


I just installed mine last night after replacing a bad MSI board I got. I figured I'd take a dive and get the new revision 3.1 board. It was a weird install because I had to put the SSD on a SataII port to install windows. Then I was able to install the drivers on the Asus website and I could put my SSD back in to the SataIII port.

Oh yea and before I did anything, I updated it to the 1850 bios.


Same thing here.. I also had to put my SSD in a Sata 3GB/s port in order to install Windows 7 on my Intel SSD, then move it back to the 6GB/s port after install..

btw: Congrats with a great board


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenie77*


tryed those settings and all i get is black screen on boot and not even a bios/load screen just hangs... after hard reset i get the screen with OC failed press f1 for set up....

same as the other options i tryed on the official thread for OC this board
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110

if i try to just set the multiplyer to 42 or 45 and all on auto, it boots but just shows as standard ghz even under steress test shows no OC.. is there sumin i am missing here??


Oh damn. I forgot to say that I think you will need to get the latest BIOS.









Try the very latest BIOS and then it might work better.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


I'm not by my pc but I think there's a newer bios than the one you are using (not the beta one!) I think it's 17xx or something. I would recommend updating to this and then trying again. The first thing I learned about overclocking was patience.. Although recently I've been losing mine lol.

I would say set a modest overclock and then leave everything on auto. Boot into bios and then see what the vcore volt is as it should give u a rough idea of where to start your manual clock. Then set manual volt and stress it. If it fail up it another notch (0.005) and try again.

Twoables: I tried your settings you recommended recently and I'm currently around the 1.365v mark and just in the process of stressing it. I'm abit bumbed out that it needs that much v for 46x










Is it unstable at anything less than using 1.365V in the BIOS? If so, then what does CPU-Z say the vcore is during full load?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


Would you agree it's worrying that I reset everything back to stock and tried the asus extreme auto tune and it crashed on me?! I mean everything was stable when I originally built the rig and now it's just not behaving.


I had problems with Auto Tuning too, so no.







I think JJ was using a cherry-picked i7-2600K, so I think that's why Auto Tuning worked as well as it did for him.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


Edit: just a quick Q what are the CPU current capabilities settings for?


To be honest, I think the reason why they have multiple choices is just to add a sense of value to this board. I mean I think the only logical choice for overclocking at all is 140%. The manual says:

_"This item provides wider total power range for overclocking. A higher value brings a wider total power range ad extends overclocking frequency range simultaneously"_.

So, it's more or less a power limiter. I think that if the setting is reached/exceeded, then it's gets limited to that power draw. So if I tried to overclock to 4.7 GHz with 110% selected, then I'd probably never even see 4.0 GHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


Also how does the offset mode for vcore work as JJ says that's the most efficient way to overclock. Many thanks in advance


I still don't know. I had mine set to "+" right now with 0.005, and during load my voltage increased to 1.352V - 1.360V. I recently increased it to 0.010V, and now I'm getting just a tiny bit more as expected.

However, I only have a very limited experience with it so far. Previously, I was using the manual mode just so I could get started. However, now I'm using Offset mode so that my idle power (such as right now) is lower as well as my temps. CPU-Z is saying that my vcore at this very second is 1.008V.









So now I strongly prefer Offset Mode. Although, I don't know how to manipulate it that much at all.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I still don't know. I had mine set to "+" right now with 0.005, and during load my voltage increased to 1.352V - 1.360V. I recently increased it to 0.010V, and now I'm getting just a tiny bit more as expected.

However, I only have a very limited experience with it so far. Previously, I was using the manual mode just so I could get started. However, now I'm using Offset mode so that my idle power (such as right now) is lower as well as my temps. CPU-Z is saying that my vcore at this very second is 1.008V.









So now I strongly prefer Offset Mode. Although, I don't know how to manipulate it that much at all.


When you increase Offset, you add that to the Current VID of the CPU. But the CPU will increase it's VID when you do big speed increases.

My CPU has a VID at 1.2410v for stock speed of 3.3GHz. However, when I overclock it to 4.5GHz, that VID goes up to 1.3410v Vcore. So when I add Offset + 0.020, that gives me about 1.360v + (Goes a little higher, and for the most times at 1.368v when load), which is my current Vcore for 4.5GHz.

btw: Using LLC at Ultra High


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


When you increase Offset, you add that to the Current VID of the CPU. But the CPU will increase it's VID when you do big speed increases.

My CPU has a VID at 1.2410v for stock speed of 3.3GHz. However, when I overclock it to 4.5GHz, that VID goes up to 1.3410v Vcore. So when I add Offset + 0.020, that gives me about 1.360v + (Goes a little higher, and for the most times at 1.368v when load), which is my current Vcore for 4.5GHz.

btw: Using LLC at Ultra High


Whoa. Now the following is no longer a mystery to me: I'm trying 4.8 GHz right now with the Offset at +0.015 and I haven't even really tested it beyond 30 minutes of Prime95 Blend because I was just doing a quick check (I mean, I'm doing a 12-hour run within the hour), but my system feels rock-solid stable. Like, you know how you can sometimes just tell by the way everything feels when you use it? Yeah, it's like that!

Although again, I'm still going to do a 12-hour run in a little bit here. I just need to get my OCN fix one last time and then go to sleep. Once I head off to sleep, I'm setting it up for a 12-hour run.

I guess now I understand why JJ feels that it's the most efficient way to overclock!

*Edit: *here are my current settings for 4.8 GHz that only _seem_ stable for right now:


*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 360
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign: *+
*CPU Offset Voltage: *0.015V (my full load voltage seems to like 1.368V the most, while sometimes hitting below it at 1.352V, 1.360V, and then above it at 1.376V)
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V, but it likes to swing between 1.150V and 1.178V. However, it usually hovers most of the time at 1.162V and 1.165V while sometimes hitting 1.171V.
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled


----------



## BrewMeister

System has been up and running for about 2-3 weeks. Since day one, if the system goes to sleep the system appears to resume fine, EXCEPT the video remains dormant...(all three screens are black) The only way past the problem is to force a hard reset, and then the system resumes.
I've tried the following...
Via device manager Configured all devices to "wake" the system - no change
Installed latest drivers - (now NVIDIA 8.17.12.7533) MOBO BIOS (now 0651), et al... no change.
Disabled the Internal PLL overvoltage ...no change.
Ran CCLEANER - reinstalled the 275.33 drivers...no change.
How can I resolve this problem?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BrewMeister*


System has been up and running for about 2-3 weeks. Since day one, if the system goes to sleep the system appears to resume fine, EXCEPT the video remains dormant...(all three screens are black) The only way past the problem is to force a hard reset, and then the system resumes.
I've tried the following...
Via device manager Configured all devices to "wake" the system - no change
Installed latest drivers - (now NVIDIA 8.17.12.7533) MOBO BIOS (now 0651), et al... no change.
Disabled the Internal PLL overvoltage ...no change.
Ran CCLEANER - reinstalled the 275.33 drivers...no change.
How can I resolve this problem?


Try to install a older Nvidia Video driver and see if it helps.. Or... try to disable SLI


----------



## nicolasl46

question for you guys, looking at my signature rig, is it normal for my 2600k to be running at 38-42c idle? my brother has the same setup, but with a 2500k, and his is running at 34-38c. Ambient temp is around 31-34c give or take.

edit: Should I try replacing the TIM with formula 7? (thats what my brother uses)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


question for you guys, looking at my signature rig, is it normal for my 2600k to be running at 38-42c idle? my brother has the same setup, but with a 2500k, and his is running at 34-38c. Ambient temp is around 31-34c give or take.


With that hot ambient temp, it's very normal.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


With that hot ambient temp, it's very normal.










so, should i leave it like that, or try changing TIM (formula 7)? I'm not interested in lapping anything.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


so, should i leave it like that, or try changing TIM (formula 7)? I'm not interested in lapping anything.


I'd say leave it. Your idle temps are only 7-8Â°C warmer than your ambient. My idle temps are about 10Â°C warmer than my ambient right now.









Do you guys have the same case, same case fans and even the same CPU cooling? How about the overclock? How similar are your voltages and clocks?


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I'd say leave it. Your idle temps are only 7-8Â°C warmer than your ambient. My idle temps are about 10Â°C warmer than my ambient right now.









Do you guys have the same case, same case fans and even the same CPU cooling? How about the overclock? How similar are your voltages and clocks?


Well, we are both on stock clocks, and he has the stock fans on his H70 (with formula 7) and his case is a CM HAF 922 (lots of airflow). My H70 has to Typhoons AP-31 (5400RPMs with a fan controller running probably at 30%) but my case's air flow is more restricted.


----------



## TwoCables

Well check this out:

My i5-2500K is doing it's normal power-saving stuff, so it's using 1.008V, it's at 1.6GHz, and yet my idle temps are about 10Â°C warmer than my ambient. It's currently about 21.5Â°C in my room right now. I actually think this is normal.


----------



## Greenie77

@twocables thanks for letting me know about the bios update i seen there were newer versions but was unsure if should upgrade or not. i upgraded followed you posted settings and again black screen boot followed by press f1 etc... i changed 1 thing instead of putting in 1600 for mem freq i put it at auto saved and booted..... low and behold it started straight away and now running did a quick start of prime and with that and cpu-z showed 4.7ghz







... atm with nothing running but firefox and usual idle gubbins i show 0.984/0.968 or so core voltage and temps of 29-33C.

sooo... before on my old Q9400 i used OCCT to stress test but for some reason it doesnt wana work on this new set up it doesnt show temps no matter what i do nor half the stuff it used to do on old pc, ill run a hour blend test on prime ( if i can get it working properly) and see what happens under load.

thanks for the advice so far









oh btw on my bios set up the vccio voltage shows up pink after i put in the setting from your post?? why is that? no others show up as pink lol does that mean my pc is camp and gunna asspolde>.>

oh i upgraded to the 1704 bios not the 18xx beta version


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenie77*


@twocables thanks for letting me know about the bios update i seen there were newer versions but was unsure if should upgrade or not. i upgraded followed you posted settings and again black screen boot followed by press f1 etc... i changed 1 thing instead of putting in 1600 for mem freq i put it at auto saved and booted..... low and behold it started straight away and now running did a quick start of prime and with that and cpu-z showed 4.7ghz







... atm with nothing running but firefox and usual idle gubbins i show 0.984/0.968 or so core voltage and temps of 29-33C.

sooo... before on my old Q9400 i used OCCT to stress test but for some reason it doesnt wana work on this new set up it doesnt show temps no matter what i do nor half the stuff it used to do on old pc, ill run a hour blend test on prime ( if i can get it working properly) and see what happens under load.

thanks for the advice so far









oh btw on my bios set up the vccio voltage shows up pink after i put in the setting from your post?? why is that? no others show up as pink lol does that mean my pc is camp and gunna asspolde>.>

oh i upgraded to the 1704 bios not the 18xx beta version


It's pink because it's programmed to turn pink when you get past that certain voltage where it turns pink (I ignore the color changes, so I don't know when it turns pink). So that's just the way it is. I think they color-coded it for people who know what they're doing but refuse to seek help. So it's not trying to communicate with you with colors; it'll always turn pink every single time you exceed that certain voltage amount because it's told to do so by the programming.

Anyway, I'm glad it booted!! (although, it's "*lo* and behold". It means, "look, and behold") However, what does CPU-Z's *Memory tab* say your current clock speed is? Multiply it by 2.


----------



## turrican9

My VCCIO defaults to 1.050v. Shows as about 1.043v in bios - Fluctuating a little bit.

I think 1.050v is the Default VCCIO for Sandybridge.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


My VCCIO defaults to 1.050v. Shows as about 1.043v in bios - Fluctuating a little bit.

I think 1.050v is the Default VCCIO for Sandybridge.


Mine is basically the same way.

Although, I'm really enjoying using these higher VCCIO voltages.


----------



## Greenie77

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1910787

umm for memory tab...
dram freq says 666.8Mhz under the timming section is that what u meant?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenie77*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1910787

umm for memory tab...
dram freq says 666.8Mhz under the timming section is that what u meant?


Yeah, and so that means it's running at 1333 MHz.

I was concerned about this when you said that it's set to Auto.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Well check this out:

My i5-2500K is doing it's normal power-saving stuff, so it's using 1.008V, it's at 1.6GHz, and yet my idle temps are about 10Â°C warmer than my ambient. It's currently about 21.5Â°C in my room right now. I actually think this is normal.


Well, now that I think about it, I have all the power saving features turned of, and turbo mode enabled, so according to real temp, the CPU is running at 4.3Ghz (in turbo mode that is) turno mode is not running in all 4 cores, but I guess it will have an impact on my temps?


----------



## Greenie77

that good or bad... i am only just getting my head around the cpu OC.. memory tinkering is beyond me atm







lol.... it dont boot with it set at its 1600 thou so is that a issue or is there another setting to alter?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Mine is basically the same way.

Although, I'm really enjoying using these higher VCCIO voltages.


I've tried VCCIO all the way up to 1.200 volts in hopes I could lower my Vcore. Since I'm using 2x4GB RAM. It seemed to scale well up to about 1.150 volts...

The funny thing is that it seemed I could Lower Vcore a few notches at 4.5GHz with the upped VCCIO (Did not test 12 hours + Blend though), but not at 4.6GHz and 4.7GHz.

However the upped VCCIO from 1.050 to 1.150 volts increased my CPU temps. So I could just aswell use VCCIO at default and just use my regular ~1.368v (Drops to min. 1.360v) Vcore for CPU at 4.5GHz...

btw: I'm thinking of going Sandy for my secondary system too. My secondary rig is running 24/7 for uploading/downloading and general use. And I'm so sick of getting BSOD's after several days uptime. [email protected] and P5Q-E. It is tested stable up to 4.2GHz. However, it seems it will get unstable after some time. I suspect my mem is doing this. 2x2GB + 2x1GB Crucial Ballistix PC6400 4-4-4-12-2.0v. So now I've taken out those two 1GB sticks.

Same thing happens with my P5Q PRO Turbo. Getting unstable after long periods of uptime.

Sandybridge systems are much easier to handle. So I'm thinking I should retire my last 775 rig. Considering another 2500K, 8GB Vengeance (Hard to get other 1.5v brands here in Norway) and either a P8Z68-V PRO or Maximus IV Gene-Z.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


Well, now that I think about it, I have all the power saving features turned of, and turbo mode enabled, so according to real temp, the CPU is running at 4.3Ghz (in turbo mode that is) turno mode is not running in all 4 cores, but I guess it will have an impact on my temps?


Use CPU-Z instead.







I mean, not for temps, but for the core voltage, clock speed, and multiplier.

Anyway, Sandy Bridge is extremely different, so it's best to leave absolutely all of the power-saving features on like the C-states (including C1E) and SpeedStep. I mean, don't use the EPU, but use the other power-saving features.

I don't remember how to explain why it's better with these things enabled, but I think it's just that they no longer have a negative impact on the overclocking potential thanks to the design of Sandy Bridge.


----------



## TwoCables

I'm sorry you guys, but I have to get some sleep. I've reached a critical breaking point where if I don't go now, then I'll be typing with my face in a few minutes.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I've tried VCCIO all the way up to 1.200 volts in hopes I could lower my Vcore. Since I'm using 2x4GB RAM. It seemed to scale well up to about 1.150 volts...

The funny thing is that it seemed I could Lower Vcore a few notches at 4.5GHz with the upped VCCIO (Did not test 12 hours + Blend though), but not at 4.6GHz and 4.7GHz.

However the upped VCCIO from 1.050 to 1.150 volts increased my CPU temps. So I could just aswell use VCCIO at default and just use my regular ~1.368v (Drops to min. 1.360v) Vcore for CPU at 4.5GHz...


Whoa. If it increases your CPU temps, then I am definitely going to shoot for a lower VCCIO.

I'll just see how it does for now at 4.8 GHz with these current settings (including my 1.15625V VCCIO). If it turns out to be stable enough to last 12 hours in Blend, then I'm gonna stay at 4.8 GHz and clean it up. Well, hopefully.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Use CPU-Z instead.







I mean, not for temps, but for the core voltage, clock speed, and multiplier.

Anyway, Sandy Bridge is extremely different, so it's best to leave absolutely all of the power-saving features on like the C-states (including C1E) and SpeedStep. I mean, don't use the EPU, but use the other power-saving features.

I don't remember how to explain why it's better with these things enabled, but I think it's just that they no longer have a negative impact on the overclocking potential thanks to the design of Sandy Bridge.


Hello TC









Just in case you missed it!
Did you know you can turn turbo "off and on" with RealTemp








And can even do it while under load!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenie77*


that good or bad... i am only just getting my head around the cpu OC.. memory tinkering is beyond me atm







lol.... it dont boot with it set at its 1600 thou so is that a issue or is there another setting to alter?


I almost forgot to reply!

It's not *bad*, but as an enthusiast, it bugs me because it's not perfect. 1600MHz would be "perfect". hehe









I need some sleep quite badly here, but have these guys help you get it to work at 1600 MHz. It'll look nice and you'll feel good about it!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Hello TC









Just in case you missed it!
Did you know you can turn turbo "off and on" with RealTemp








And can even do it while under load!











Whoa! Y'know, I opened up i7 Turbo GT once and closed it after immediately realizing that it's not a temperature monitoring program.









I think I'll be checking this thing out when I wake up! I like the options I see so far!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Use CPU-Z instead.







I mean, not for temps, but for the core voltage, clock speed, and multiplier.

Anyway, Sandy Bridge is extremely different, so it's best to leave absolutely all of the power-saving features on like the C-states (including C1E) and SpeedStep. I mean, don't use the EPU, but use the other power-saving features.

I don't remember how to explain why it's better with these things enabled, but I think it's just that they no longer have a negative impact on the overclocking potential thanks to the design of Sandy Bridge.


If using Offset Vcore, many people, including me have found that they need to Disable C3/C6 states to avoid Idle BSOD's. For me, this happened with the 1704 bios (Not tried to have C3/C6 enabled with beta 1850 though). With 1502 and 1606 I could leave them enabled. This gives the CPU a tad higher Voltage when at Idle clock.

Also, for monitoring, HWiNFO is excellent.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


If using Offset Vcore, many people, including me have found that they need to Disable C3/C6 states to avoid Idle BSOD's. For me, this happened after 1502 and beta 1606 bios. This gives the CPU a tad higher Voltage when at Idle clock.


Oh! Thank you for bringing that to my attention! I mean, I expect to begin having some problems soon. lol I mean, my luck can't be this good. This is unreal so far.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Also, for monitoring, HWiNFO is excellent.


Whoa, nice. Thank you!


----------



## eternal7trance

All this info is great so far, I'm going to venture in to overclocking on this board when I get home from work. It's very different from the p67a-gd65 I had.

I hope you enjoy your 580 TC.


----------



## BrewMeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14235232*
> Try to install a older Nvidia Video driver and see if it helps.. Or... try to disable SLI


Any particular version you'd suggest?


----------



## Greenie77

well i did a 1 hour blend test on prime95 and got no errors or anything else, my temps were 60-72C and the vcore looked to stay the same with only small fluctuations... unsure if thats kinda high temps or ok. thou i didnt really hear my fans get any louder.. they get louder while playing games yet my temps dont go as high... >.< cant figure that out lol

will set it for a longer test tonighet when i sleep and see what happens


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrewMeister;14236173*
> Any particular version you'd suggest?


Nahh... Just try some older drivers..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie77;14236212*
> well i did a 1 hour blend test on prime95 and got no errors or anything else, my temps were 60-72C and the vcore looked to stay the same with only small fluctuations... unsure if thats kinda high temps or ok. thou i didnt really hear my fans get any louder.. they get louder while playing games yet my temps dont go as high... >.< cant figure that out lol
> 
> will set it for a longer test tonighet when i sleep and see what happens


What load Volts and speed?


----------



## turrican9

Testing 4.8GHz now with the LLC at Extreme. Seems like I'm getting a much more stable Vcore VS LLC at Ultra high.

Maybe this will be my final solution for my problems at 4.6GHz +.. Doing a fast Blend Custom testing. 6000MB and 3 min. instead of 15 minutes per problem size...

Right now I'm testing at about 1.440 - 1.464 Vcore. About the same that was needed for 4.7GHz with LLC at Ultra high in order to be 12 hours + Blend stable. LLC at Ultra high caused some Vcore drops down to 1.432v and was up to 1.464v Vcore.

Update: It failed pretty soon.

Update 2: Trying the same settings with PLL Overvoltage enabled

Update 3: No go, disabling PLL Overvoltage, same settings otherwise, but trying VCCIO from 1.050 to 1.150 Volts.


----------



## Greenie77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14236230*
> What load Volts and speed?


umm not sure what u mean really....

i posted the cpu-z verification thing should show volts and speed??? i used twocables settings for 4.7Ghz so far working ok for me.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1910787

that what you need?

looks like you got the same memory as me corsair vengance 1600 8gb's.. do they show up as 1600/did you set the fequency or set as auto... mines set at auto and shows as 1333 but if i set as 1600 pc wont boot with OC >.>


----------



## henrygale

I bought my motherboard new, but for some reason I feel as if it has been opened or used before.. There are one or two small scratches on the edges of the heatsinks, as if a CPU cooler's fins scraped them. The RAM levers and the top of one of the SATA plugs have some sort of black/brown dirt on them. Also, my box and motherboard were not sealed with heatshrink plastic or even a sticker/seal. All accessories were in sealed packages, but those could be easily thrown in.

Were your motherboard boxes sealed? Am I just being paranoid? Thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie77;14237511*
> umm not sure what u mean really....
> 
> i posted the cpu-z verification thing should show volts and speed??? i used twocables settings for 4.7Ghz so far working ok for me.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1910787
> 
> that what you need?
> 
> looks like you got the same memory as me corsair vengance 1600 8gb's.. do they show up as 1600/did you set the fequency or set as auto... mines set at auto and shows as 1333 but if i set as 1600 pc wont boot with OC >.>


If I remember correctly they were at 1333 when set at Auto, using the 1502 bios. However, I have always sat them manually to 1600 ever since. So it may be later bioses will set them automatic to 1600. I run mine at 1600 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v without issues


----------



## Greenie77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale;14237573*
> I bought my motherboard new, but for some reason I feel as if it has been opened or used before.. There are one or two small scratches on the edges of the heatsinks, as if a CPU cooler's fins scraped them. The RAM levers and the top of one of the SATA plugs have some sort of black/brown dirt on them. Also, my box and motherboard were not sealed with heatshrink plastic or even a sticker/seal. All accessories were in sealed packages, but those could be easily thrown in.
> 
> Were your motherboard boxes sealed? Am I just being paranoid? Thanks


box was not shrink wrapped but has security seal on it, mb bag not sealed no but hadstickers on the board an looked fresh.

@turrican9, i shall try those settings and see what happens i am on the newer bios 17xx so iunno about it setting to 1600 in auto thats not happening for me.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale;14237573*
> Were your motherboard boxes sealed? Am I just being paranoid? Thanks


Have a look at a few "Unboxing videos" on YouTube









And sorry, I don't remember how mine was packed









Here's one video that makes me thing they're not sealed













http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjOmDnMaf2Q[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## turrican9

My ASUS P8P67 PRO box was not sealed. And the board itself had no stickers over the memslots, like I've seen on others.

We must remember that all B2 boards were called back and fixed into B3. So mine could just as well be one of these. My board had no signs of being used though.


----------



## eternal7trance

I bought the new rev 3.1 board and mine was not sealed either.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14238362*
> I bought the new rev 3.1 board and mine was not sealed either.


Mine wasnt sealed either, and didnt come with the B3 sticker, but my brothers did. Idk its working fine regardless

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale;14237573*
> I bought my motherboard new, but for some reason I feel as if it has been opened or used before.. There are one or two small scratches on the edges of the heatsinks, as if a CPU cooler's fins scraped them. The RAM levers and the top of one of the SATA plugs have some sort of black/brown dirt on them. Also, my box and motherboard were not sealed with heatshrink plastic or even a sticker/seal. All accessories were in sealed packages, but those could be easily thrown in.
> 
> Were your motherboard boxes sealed? Am I just being paranoid? Thanks


mine was not sealed but is clean and had stickers on it. if it really bugs you, then return it, it sucks having that nagging feeling that you got an "inferior" product.


----------



## L36

What is CPU Current Capability and what should i set it at when im running at 4.7?


----------



## nawon72

I recently flashed to BIOS 1704, and i noticed the CPU temp ASUS Probe II shows is 
about 10*C lower than RealTemp 3.67(60*C vs 50*C). Right now i'm going to trust RealTemp just to be safe, but i'm wondering why there is such a difference. According to the changelog i read here, ASUS changed the CPU temperature display from Tjunction to Tcase. Can someone make sense of this for me?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *L36*


What is CPU Current Capability and what should i set it at when im running at 4.7?


I think it increase the amount of current that is supplied to the CPU when needed. With a 2600K at 4.7GHz, you will likely need more that 95W(TDP). So you should increase the CPU Current Capability in order to improve stability.


----------



## Cosmic Collision

Hey guys, just wondering if there is a way to disable the on board power and reset LEDs.

The light from them reflects off of my sound card and hits me in the face. It's really annoying.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cosmic Collision*


Hey guys, just wondering if there is a way to disable the on board power and reset LEDs.

The light from them reflects off of my sound card and hits me in the face. It's really annoying.


you can't turn them off
Just tape them with some tape that doesn't let through light


----------



## BrewMeister

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Nahh... Just try some older drivers..


OK, Thanks for the suggestion.
EDIT:
"System has been up and running for about 2-3 weeks. Since day one, if the system goes to sleep the system appears to resume fine, EXCEPT the video remains dormant...(all three screens are black) The only way past the problem is to force a hard reset, and then the system resumes.
I've tried the following...

Via device manager Configured all devices to "wake" the system - no change
Installed latest drivers - (now NVIDIA 8.17.12.7533) MOBO BIOS (now 0651), et al... no change.
Disabled the Internal PLL overvoltage ...no change.
Ran CCLEANER - reinstalled the 275.33 drivers...no change.

Tried the new BETA (275.50) Drivers...no change.
Tried the older drivers (270.61)... no change. 
Thanks in advance for any and all help on how can I resolve this problem?


----------



## eternal7trance

With so many countless threads about sleep or hibernation not working, why do people still use it?


----------



## turrican9

I have built my own computers and computers for others since 1995, and my experience with hibernate is that there will usually be some kind of problems, one way or another.

I relate this to the fact that there are so many computer components and drivers that all should work in harmony, in theory. However, there will always be some kind of issue. And for some reason Hibernate is very picky about everything.

Laptops and OEM computers are built and tested to work with hibernate.

I tend to stay away from hibernate on homebuilt computers. Many times it seems like it works okay, but from my experience there can be strange problems after a wakeup. I remember one computer, Mediaplayer would go in slow motion after a wakeup, and another computer, CPU clock frequency and Vcore was totally wrong after a wakeup...


----------



## pioneerisloud

I also NEVER use Hibernation, sleep or anything like it. I allow my monitors to turn off after 30 minutes (15 on my laptop). But if I want my machine off, I'll turn it off myself thank you.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I also NEVER use Hibernation, sleep or anything like it. I allow my monitors to turn off after 30 minutes (15 on my laptop). But if I want my machine off, I'll turn it off myself thank you.










Yea I have my monitors set to 30 min and the HDDs stop after an hour.


----------



## GeforceGTS

I recently decided to start using all the power saving features and the only issue I've had so far is when coming out of sleep, my TV card wouldn't work, after googling I found it's a known issue with the latest drivers, so I just rolled back the drivers for the TV card and it works fine now


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GeforceGTS*


I recently decided to start using all the power saving features and the only issue I've had so far is when coming out of sleep, my TV card wouldn't work, after googling I found it's a known issue with the latest drivers, so I just rolled back the drivers for the TV card and it works fine now










Next time you update a driver you could get problems again. There could also be that you actually have sympthoms not seen yet, after a wakeup.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


All this info is great so far, I'm going to venture in to overclocking on this board when I get home from work. It's very different from the p67a-gd65 I had.

I hope you enjoy your 580 TC.


Thank you!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenie77*


well i did a 1 hour blend test on prime95 and got no errors or anything else, my temps were 60-72C and the vcore looked to stay the same with only small fluctuations... unsure if thats kinda high temps or ok. thou i didnt really hear my fans get any louder.. they get louder while playing games yet my temps dont go as high... >.< cant figure that out lol

will set it for a longer test tonighet when i sleep and see what happens










The louder-fan sound you're hearing while playing games might be your graphics card. Look into it; if it's not, then don't worry about it. I think that it's just like a friend of mine likes to say: _"...as long as it works!"_.









Regarding the temperatures: that seems a little warm to me for this voltage and this overclock, so what is the temperature in your room? I mean, what is the temperature of the air that is being pulled in by the intake fan(s) on your case?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenie77*


umm not sure what u mean really....

i posted the cpu-z verification thing should show volts and speed??? i used twocables settings for 4.7Ghz so far working ok for me.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1910787

that what you need?


He is referring to the voltage and clock speed that you see while the CPU is under load, such as during a Prime95 run.

Anyway, I'm very very glad the settings are working! However, I learned that my VRM Fixed Frequency Mode setting of 360 is unnecessary. All we really need to use is 350. I was previously forgetting about the following thing that JJ said regarding this setting:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Juan Jose - ASUS Senior Technical Marketing Specialist, in reference to the VRM Fixed Frequency Mode setting*

Enter a value of 350. This is best for sustaining stability at multis of 48x or above. This is key especially for running unrealistic loading testing such as prime or linx.


So in other words, 360 is an unnecessary setting and 350 is more and adequate.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenie77*


looks like you got the same memory as me corsair vengance 1600 8gb's.. do they show up as 1600/did you set the fequency or set as auto... mines set at auto and shows as 1333 but if i set as 1600 pc wont boot with OC >.>


What setting are you using for "DRAM Voltage"?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *L36*


What is CPU Current Capability and what should i set it at when im running at 4.7?


CPU Current Capability refers to how much current you want to have available for your CPU. So if you try to overclock with this value set to 100%, and if you run Prime95's Blend test, then you should find that no matter how high you set the multiplier, you won't be able to get the CPU any higher than its stock Turbo Mode frequency (that is, 3.7 or 3.8 GHz). This is because the motherboard is not allowing the CPU to draw any more than 95W.

So setting it to 140% means that you never have to worry about not having enough power for even the biggest overclock. If I'm doing the math correctly, then 140% means that the CPU is allowed to draw as much as 228W should it ever need that much.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BrewMeister*


OK, Thanks for the suggestion.
EDIT:
"System has been up and running for about 2-3 weeks. Since day one, if the system goes to sleep the system appears to resume fine, EXCEPT the video remains dormant...(all three screens are black) The only way past the problem is to force a hard reset, and then the system resumes.
I've tried the following...

Via device manager Configured all devices to "wake" the system - no change
Installed latest drivers - (now NVIDIA 8.17.12.7533) MOBO BIOS (now 0651), et al... no change.
Disabled the Internal PLL overvoltage ...no change.
Ran CCLEANER - reinstalled the 275.33 drivers...no change.
Tried the new BETA (275.50) Drivers...no change.
Tried the older drivers (270.61)... no change. 
Thanks in advance for any and all help on how can I resolve this problem?


Is anything in your system overclocked? If so, then what testing have you done to check the stability?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


With so many countless threads about sleep or hibernation not working, why do people still use it?


I know right?

My system is so damn fast that the only reason why I would ever use or Hibernation is if I wanted to turn my computer off without losing my place. Like let's say a severe thunderstorm is about to hit and I'm in the middle of a massive post where it's requiring me to do a ton of research, and let's say that I'm about 75% done. So then what I'd do is use Hibernation so that I could unplug everything and get the hell off the grid.









Regarding Sleep mode: I see no reason to use it unless I'm on a laptop. In fact, my parents have a relatively new laptop, and we use Sleep mode on it quite frequently. However, I think it's important to note here that *we never use Sleep or Hibernation instead of just shutting down*. I think that using Sleep or Hibernation every single day instead of shutting down is not good for Windows (even Windows 7) because I believe it needs to be restarted once a day to avoid any weird problems.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14234845*
> Is it unstable at anything less than using 1.365V in the BIOS? If so, then what does CPU-Z say the vcore is during full load?
> 
> I had problems with Auto Tuning too, so no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think JJ was using a cherry-picked i7-2600K, so I think that's why Auto Tuning worked as well as it did for him.
> 
> To be honest, I think the reason why they have multiple choices is just to add a sense of value to this board. I mean I think the only logical choice for overclocking at all is 140%. The manual says:
> 
> _"This item provides wider total power range for overclocking. A higher value brings a wider total power range ad extends overclocking frequency range simultaneously"_.
> 
> So, it's more or less a power limiter. I think that if the setting is reached/exceeded, then it's gets limited to that power draw. So if I tried to overclock to 4.7 GHz with 110% selected, then I'd probably never even see 4.0 GHz.
> 
> I still don't know. I had mine set to "+" right now with 0.005, and during load my voltage increased to 1.352V - 1.360V. I recently increased it to 0.010V, and now I'm getting just a tiny bit more as expected.
> 
> However, I only have a very limited experience with it so far. Previously, I was using the manual mode just so I could get started. However, now I'm using Offset mode so that my idle power (such as right now) is lower as well as my temps. CPU-Z is saying that my vcore at this very second is 1.008V.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I strongly prefer Offset Mode. Although, I don't know how to manipulate it that much at all.


I've only run blend for like 5 hours and since going to 1.365 volts it does feel alot better now. I'll leave an overnight run tonight i think just to be certain. CUP-Z has it hovvering around the 1.360 to 1.368 volt mark constantly

I'm glad i wasnt the only one with the auto tune problem as when i searched online for anyone else who exp it there wasnt much out there!

I think i'll keep this stable clock for a little while before i start to experiement with the offset mode. Will do abit more research into it i think.

Thank you again for all the guidence.


----------



## plumbroke318

Great info here! Wanting to push past 5.1 with my 2600k and now I think I can with the knowledge that is shared here.

BTW, running a P8P67 WS Revolution B3 board.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14246167*
> I've only run blend for like 5 hours and since going to 1.365 volts it does feel alot better now. I'll leave an overnight run tonight i think just to be certain. CUP-Z has it hovvering around the 1.360 to 1.368 volt mark constantly
> 
> I'm glad i wasnt the only one with the auto tune problem as when i searched online for anyone else who exp it there wasnt much out there!
> 
> I think i'll keep this stable clock for a little while before i start to experiement with the offset mode. Will do abit more research into it i think.
> 
> Thank you again for all the guidence.


Then check out _these_ settings (particularly to begin experimenting more with Offset Mode):


*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* *48* (I am not finished testing)

*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.030V

*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V, but it likes to swing between 1.150V and 1.178V. However, it usually hovers most of the time at 1.162V and 1.165V while sometimes hitting 1.171V.
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
My full load voltage with an Offset of 0.030V seems to hang out at 1.376V the most while sometimes hitting below it at 1.368V, and then above it at 1.384V. With the Offset at 0.025V, it would hang out at 1.368V the most while going down to 1.360V and up to 1.376V. Although, it would hang out between 1.368V and 1.376V the most just like how 0.030V causes to to hang out at 1.376V and 1.384V the most (as compared to how often the voltage drops down).

*Note:* at 0.025V, it failed Prime95 Blend after about 4 hours and 40 minutes, but I have not yet tested 0.030V


----------



## Durden

That's great to know twocables I'll be interested to find out if the new settings hold up.

I'm in two minds with whether or not I should try upping the multiplier again. No doubt I'll get the urge to but just to see what it can do and then just scale back to 4.5 with lower volts.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14248334*
> That's great to know twocables I'll be interested to find out if the new settings hold up.
> 
> I'm in two minds with whether or not I should try upping the multiplier again. No doubt I'll get the urge to but just to see what it can do and then just scale back to 4.5 with lower volts.


With the air cooler you have (the mighty NH-D14), you should be shooting for 4.8 GHz or 4.9 GHz - maybe even 5.0 GHz.


----------



## iLLGT3

Looks like I'm going to be buying a new P8P67 come Wednesday.


----------



## roboz

I have a p8z68-v pro overclocked at 4300 Mhz with EZ overclock. I would like to try for a higher one. Is there a specific tutorial I can read for the p8z68-v pro, or will the P8P67 tutorials be just as good?


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14248453*
> With the air cooler you have (the mighty NH-D14), you should be shooting for 4.8 GHz or 4.9 GHz - maybe even 5.0 GHz.


I would have hopped for that but I really don't think the chip I have can get me there. My temps so far are in the 62C to topping at 70C too which is near the 72C I've read is the range to keep 24/7 usage.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14248836*
> I would have hopped for that but I really don't think the chip I have can get me there. My temps so far are in the 62C to topping at 70C too which is near the 72C I've read is the range to keep 24/7 usage.


If those are your temps right now, then it sounds to me like one or more of the following could be true:

The NH-D14 might need to be reinstalled
The NH-D14 might not be tightened down enough
There may not be enough thermal paste
There might be too much thermal paste
The airflow in the case may need to be improved
Speaking of your airflow, what is the temperature of the air that's being pulled into your case by your intake fans? In other words, what is the ambient temperature?

Also, where do you keep your system? Is it out in the open where it is free to breathe, or is it in an enclosed area like a desk hole?


----------



## turrican9

My temps for comparison. 4.5GHz ~1.368v Vcore, CM Hyper 212+


----------



## Greenie77

i ran a blend test last night and woke up to a pc turned off.. when i turned it on it told me windows had stoped working due to a error did the search for soloution but nothing happend after.... tryed another blend test and came back a bit later and same ****..... i guess it crashed or bsod or sumin.. after that pc was acting funny and kept freezing.

reset back to standard and ran pc normally all day everythings working fine.. guess it didnt like those setting









the voltage for dram was 1.5000V i set them up as the sticker on the sticks says and pc never boots <.<...

shame the pc ran fine to begin with at 4.7 unsure what made it crash. my room always feels warm especially when pc is on, i wouldnt say its really that well ventelated its stuck under a desk side of sofa out of the way no real air flow.. running dualbox version of ffxiv all day today temps 40-55C about 60-80% cpu usage.

is there a way to stop it booting and coming up with so many boot screens.. it shows boot screen then text then boot screen then text about the sata3 w/e 5/6gb drivers then boot screeen then loads windows... all a lil fast mind your but i find it annoying lol.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie77;14249044*
> is there a way to stop it booting and coming up with so many boot screens.. it shows boot screen then text then boot screen then text about the sata3 w/e 5/6gb drivers then boot screeen then loads windows... all a lil fast mind your but i find it annoying lol.


Go into bios and disable both the Marvell and JMicron controllers. Marvell is the most important one to disable.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie77;14249044*
> i ran a blend test last night and woke up to a pc turned off.. when i turned it on it told me windows had stoped working due to a error did the search for soloution but nothing happend after.... tryed another blend test and came back a bit later and same ****..... i guess it crashed or bsod or sumin.. after that pc was acting funny and kept freezing.


In the future, don't tell Windows to check for possible solutions because it will never find one. The reason is because the solution is to make your overclock stable, however it has no clue that you're in the middle of overclocking. All it knows is that it crashed. So you are the solution.









Also: every single time Windows has an improper shut down (such as like what you experienced), make absolutely sure that you give Windows at least one healthy restart from within Windows before moving forward. That means you let it boot up that first time after the crash, wait for it to finish booting, choose Restart, let it restart to completion, choose Restart again so you can go back into the UEFI, and then continue tweaking the overclock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie77;14249044*
> reset back to standard and ran pc normally all day everythings working fine.. guess it didnt like those setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the voltage for dram was 1.5000V i set them up as the sticker on the sticks says and pc never boots <.<...
> 
> shame the pc ran fine to begin with at 4.7 unsure what made it crash. my room always feels warm especially when pc is on, i wouldnt say its really that well ventelated its stuck under a desk side of sofa out of the way no real air flow.. running dualbox version of ffxiv all day today temps 40-55C about 60-80% cpu usage.
> 
> is there a way to stop it booting and coming up with so many boot screens.. it shows boot screen then text then boot screen then text about the sata3 w/e 5/6gb drivers then boot screeen then loads windows... all a lil fast mind your but i find it annoying lol.


In addition to that, I recommend going through the UEFI very very carefully to disable everything you're not using. Click on everything and look.









Regarding the airflow: can you bring the case out into the open where it's completely free to breathe just as an experiment? I want to see if the temperatures are any different from that 60-72 that you saw.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14248944*
> If those are your temps right now, then it sounds to me like one or more of the following could be true:
> 
> The NH-D14 might need to be reinstalled
> The NH-D14 might not be tightened down enough
> There may not be enough thermal paste
> There might be too much thermal paste
> The airflow in the case may need to be improved
> Speaking of your airflow, what is the temperature of the air that's being pulled into your case by your intake fans? In other words, what is the ambient temperature?
> 
> Also, where do you keep your system? Is it out in the open where it is free to breathe, or is it in an enclosed area like a desk hole?


I think I need to invest in something to check the ambient temps as this is the important thing i need to know i guess. I was worried about the temps until i looked at the i5/i7 club for there blend test temps and saw some comparable temps there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14249025*
> My temps for comparison. 4.5GHz ~1.368v Vcore, CM Hyper 212+


Tho seeing these temps now makes me think twice. Thank you for the screen shot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14249171*
> Regarding the airflow: can you bring the case out into the open where it's completely free to breathe just as an experiment? I want to see if the temperatures are any different from that 60-72 that you saw.


I got the FT02 specifically for its cooling. I have the fans on high for when i stress test. Though i may need to think of a better position for the PC as (crazy as itll sound lol) it currently sits behind my 40" TV. The TV can get warm after a while with it being on but i have the case abit away from it and thought that the bottom of the case is free to pickup air either side.


----------



## Durden

Apologies for the double post my internet hung on me.

Anyways heres a pick of my current location:










If you look down the left side of the shot youll see the case in the background


----------



## TwoCables

There's no need to invest in anything but a room thermometer.

However if you don't have one, then how does it feel to you? Does it feel cool in the room, comfortable, warm, hot, etc?


----------



## Stileth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14248004*
> Then check out _these_ settings (particularly to begin experimenting more with Offset Mode):
> 
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
> *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> *By All Cores:* *48* (I am not finished testing)
> 
> *Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
> *Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
> *EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
> *DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
> *CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states
> 
> *DIGI+ VRM*
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Phase Control:* Extreme
> *Duty Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 140%
> *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> *CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.030V
> 
> *DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
> *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> *VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V, but it likes to swing between 1.150V and 1.178V. However, it usually hovers most of the time at 1.162V and 1.165V while sometimes hitting 1.171V.
> *CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
> *PCH Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
> My full load voltage with an Offset of 0.030V seems to hang out at 1.376V the most while sometimes hitting below it at 1.368V, and then above it at 1.384V. With the Offset at 0.025V, it would hang out at 1.368V the most while going down to 1.360V and up to 1.376V. Although, it would hang out between 1.368V and 1.376V the most just like how 0.030V causes to to hang out at 1.376V and 1.384V the most (as compared to how often the voltage drops down).
> 
> *Note:* at 0.025V, it failed Prime95 Blend after about 4 hours and 40 minutes, but I have not yet tested 0.030V


So these are your settings for stable 4.8Ghz? What are your temperatures?


----------



## Durden

Id say its warm at the moment. I may have something at work that i can borrow to just give me an idea hopefully.

I applied about a pea sized tim to the middle of the processof and put alot of pressure. I may try your suggestion of bringing the case out from behind the tv to see if theres any comparable difference.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stileth;14249372*
> So these are your settings for stable 4.8Ghz? What are your temperatures?


I don't know whether or not it's stable; I haven't even tested it yet (which is why I said "I am not finished testing" and "but I have not yet tested 0.030V").

However, the max temps with the little bit of temporary (quick) testing that I've done already are similar to before: about 70°C.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14249381*
> Id say its warm at the moment. I may have something at work that i can borrow to just give me an idea hopefully.
> 
> I applied about a pea sized tim to the middle of the processof and put alot of pressure. I may try your suggestion of bringing the case out from behind the tv to see if theres any comparable difference.


Then it may also be that there's not enough. Sometimes a pea-sized blob is not enough because it's very easy to use something much smaller than the size of an actual pea due to the small size and surface area of the CPU.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14249473*
> I don't know whether or not it's stable; I haven't even tested it yet (which is why I said "I am not finished testing" and "but I have not yet tested 0.030V").
> 
> However, the max temps with the little bit of temporary (quick) testing that I've done already are similar to before: about 70°C.
> 
> Then it may also be that there's not enough. Sometimes a pea-sized blob is not enough because it's very easy to use something much smaller than the size of an actual pea due to the small size and surface area of the CPU.


I used this video for the application process and used around this much (the first attempt on there)





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## Stileth

Hmm.. I have similar temperatures like turrican9 posted just I am only at 4.1Ghz and also I have used the pea size method. Now I am thinking to reseat the noctua with spreading the thermal compound with credit card to cover whole CPU.
Also I have used the one included with noctua, but I have also akasa-455 is it better or not?


----------



## Durden

One way which i've tried before in the past (for my ps3 repaires) was to use a plastic bag and finger technique although when reading the little i did with the application of TIM for a processor i thought it didnt need to be as spread.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14249528*
> I used this video for the application process and used around this much (the first attempt on there)


What kind of paste did you use? I mean, I don't know what kind of paste they used that first time, but it looks to me like Arctic Silver needed about 1.5x as much just to spread as far as the "Silicon type".

So if you ever feel up to it (I know I wouldn't), then I recommend checking to see how far it spread just to see if it covered most of the CPU. If not, then you'll need more.

As for applying it fresh: just apply a good sized blob in the center and go for it. There's no need to get fancy. I've always had excellent and consistent results just putting a blob in the center, cranking down the heatsink, removing the heatsink to check the application, fixing if necessary, and then putting the heatsink on.


----------



## turrican9

My ambient temps probably hovered between the 21C - 24C range when running Blend in my little computer room. Computer warms up the room if I don't open the Window.

Also, keep in mind if using AS5, it is better to spread the paste using your finger (plastic bag) or a credit card. It has a very thick consistence and will not spread well using other methods.

Personally I have always been spreading the paste using my finger (No plastic bag), and have always had good/normal temps. I have very dry fingers, so would not recommend others doing it this way.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14249601*
> What kind of paste did you use? I mean, I don't know what kind of paste they used that first time, but it looks to me like Arctic Silver needed about 1.5x as much just to spread as far as the "Silicon type".
> 
> So if you ever feel up to it (I know I wouldn't), then I recommend checking to see how far it spread just to see if it covered most of the CPU. If not, then you'll need more.


Your going to get me checking it now lol









I used the stuff that came with the cooler. May do it tomorrow though as i'm nursing a really bad hangover and dont think i should be let near equipment just yet haha

Also will get a ambient temp first too as it could be performing great for all we know.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14249636*
> My ambient temps probably hovered between the 21C - 24C range when running Blend in my little computer room. Computer warms up the room if I don't open the Window.
> 
> Also, keep in mind if using AS5, it is better to spread the paste using your finger (plastic bag) or a credit card. It has a very thick consistence and will not spread well using other methods.
> 
> Personally I have always been spreading the paste using my finger (No plastic bag), and have always had good/normal temps. I have very dry finger, so would not recommend others doing it this way.


I can def say thats what i've done in the past and everytime i've rechecked the paste its had good contact (finger method) though i thought i wouldnt get my hands dirty with this build


----------



## TwoCables

I thought that it's supposed to be unsafe to get thermal compound on our skin... Like, it might end up looking clean, but it still remains on a microscopic level or something.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14249694*
> I thought that it's supposed to be unsafe to get thermal compound on our skin... Like, it might end up looking clean, but it still remains on a microscopic level or something.


Well, I've been doing it for 15 years, and I'm still up and running


----------



## MystKid

i got the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe Mobo


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MystKid;14249771*
> i got the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe Mobo


And... ? Did you wanna be added to the Club?


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14249757*
> Well, I've been doing it for 15 years, and I'm still up and running


Ad what are your fingers temp on load ;p


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14249757*
> Well, I've been doing it for 15 years, and I'm still up and running


I bet you get good temps when you have a fever.


----------



## Cosmic Collision

I'm testing a 5GHz OC at the moment and I saw a pop up come from AI Suite giving me a warning to do with the 12V rail I think.

Should I be concerned?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cosmic Collision*


I'm testing a 5GHz OC at the moment and I saw a pop up come from AI Suite giving me a warning to do with the 12V rail I think.

Should I be concerned?


I would ignore it because software is hit or miss with PSU voltage monitoring. For some people it's basically accurate while for others it's *way* off.

Ai Suite II has a log of these warnings. I can't remember how to access them (I don't have it installed), but if you can find them, then I'm actually interested in seeing what it said.


----------



## munaim1

OT hows the new rig Cables? more specifically hows the CPU, voltage wise?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


OT hows the new rig Cables? more specifically hows the CPU, voltage wise?


Nothing like *Cosmic Collision*'s amazing CPU (omg!, 2 posts up!) but I like it quite a bit!!!

Here are my current settings which are untested as of today (I will start the test in maybe ~6-8 hours from now, shooting for 12 hours of Blend):

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign: *+
*CPU Offset Voltage: *0.030V (my full load voltage seems to hang out at 1.376V the most, while sometimes hitting below it at 1.368V, and then above it at 1.384V)
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V, but it likes to swing between 1.150V and 1.178V. However, it usually hovers most of the time at 1.162V and 1.165V while sometimes hitting 1.171V.
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
I would have taken screenshots, but I get giant horizontal black bars blocking much of the UEFI.

Anyway, I previously used an Offset voltage of 0.025 and it only lasted about 4 hours and 40 minutes in Blend. So now I'm trying 0.030 and I'll see how that goes soon enough!


----------



## munaim1

*Cables*

CosmicCollsion posted on my stable thread a couple days ago, 4.9ghz with 1.336v 12hrs blend stable, his got a pretty good one.

Your settings are looking good bud, have you tried messing around with pll voltage, seems the sweet spot is around 1.7-1.75. I have mine set to 1.7v in the bios and have not had any issues as of yet. I have found lowering the CPU PLL helps the cpu temps, give it a go when you begin testing.










*EDIT:*
You gonna try for a suicide run?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


*Cables*

CosmicCollsion posted on my stable thread a couple days ago, 4.9ghz with 1.336v 12hrs blend stable, his got a pretty good one.

Your settings are looking good bud, have you tried messing around with pll voltage, seems the sweet spot is around 1.7-1.75. I have mine set to 1.7v in the bios and have not had any issues as of yet. I have found lowering the CPU PLL helps the cpu temps, give it a go when you begin testing.










*EDIT:*
You gonna try for a suicide run?










No suicide runs for me.









Anyway, 4.9 GHz with 1.336V with the i5-2500K?!?! Dude!









Regarding the PLL Voltage: JJ says that messing with the PLL voltage doesn't improve overclocking, but lowering it can provide lower CPU temps without affecting stability! He said the same about the PCH PLL! Hmm... I'll have to check this out.







I still have a lot of tweaking to do. However, I think that once I find my maximum overclock, I'll try to clean it up as best as I can so to speak.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


No suicide runs for me.









Anyway, 4.9 GHz with 1.336V with the i5-2500K?!?! Dude!









Regarding the PLL Voltage: JJ says that messing with the PLL voltage doesn't improve overclocking, but lowering it can provide lower CPU temps without affecting stability! He said the same about the PCH PLL! Hmm... I'll have to check this out.







I still have a lot of tweaking to do. However, I think that once I find my maximum overclock, I'll try to clean it up as best as I can so to speak.



I've come accross a few that are quite similar, low voltage and high overclocks, you should come check out my thread bud, 'sandy stable club', chart could help you out. You'd be suprised with some of the results, obviously ambient temps make a difference but the overclocking sides of things it's quite broad, some with the same clocks but totally different vcore.

See you over there


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


I've come accross a few that are quite similar, low voltage and high overclocks, you should come check out my thread bud, 'sandy stable club', chart could help you out. You'd be suprised with some of the results, obviously ambient temps make a difference but the overclocking sides of things it's quite broad, some with the same clocks but totally different vcore.

See you over there










In due time. I don't feel quite ready yet (I'm still busy playing with my new toy).


----------



## iLLGT3

I noticed some earlier discussion about thermal paste. I will be buying some come Wednesday. What brand/which one do you recommend?

I've got Arctic Silver in my wishlist to buy on Newegg.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


I noticed some earlier discussion about thermal paste. I will be buying some come Wednesday. What brand/which one do you recommend?

I've got Arctic Silver in my wishlist to buy on Newegg.










IC diamond and Shin Etsu X23-7782D are my favs, those are among the best ones on the market.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


IC diamond and Shin Etsu X23-7782D are my favs, those are among the best ones on the market.










Ain't IC Diamond known for scratching up the IHS on CPU's?


----------



## Cosmic Collision

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


CosmicCollsion posted on my stable thread a couple days ago, 4.9ghz with 1.336v 12hrs blend stable, his got a pretty good one.

Your settings are looking good bud, have you tried messing around with pll voltage, seems the sweet spot is around 1.7-1.75. I have mine set to 1.7v in the bios and have not had any issues as of yet. I have found lowering the CPU PLL helps the cpu temps, give it a go when you begin testing.











I might try that









Would I need to retest for stability if I lowered it down from 1.8 to 1.7? I found out that 49x is the wall without having to enable PLL Overvoltage and with the way people jump on and off my computer I should probably have sleep working.

Also, I'm curious about using offset to set the cpu voltage. How would I go about doing that? I know what my manual voltage should be, does that speed up the process at all?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cosmic Collision*


I might try that









Would I need to retest for stability if I lowered it down from 1.8 to 1.7? I found out that 49x is the wall without having to enable PLL Overvoltage and with the way people jump on and off my computer I should probably have sleep working.

Also, I'm curious about using offset to set the cpu voltage. How would I go about doing that? I know what my manual voltage should be, does that speed up the process at all?


To be certain you'd have to retest. But it would most certainly be stable. Some are even down to 1.45v for CPU PLL.

Offset is pretty simple. The Offset you type in, is the Volts you add to the CPU's VID. However, the CPU's VID will increase with speed. So you gotta try it. Type in + 0.010 and boot Windows, see what you get under load, and work from there. If you need more, then type in more

Also, when using Offset, it could be a good idea to disable C3/C6 to avoid Idle BSOD's

btw: What I don't understand, is why I had to get one of the worst 2500K's in the whole wide world...


----------



## TwoCables

I've found that Offset really is easy to work with. I'm using +0.005V for my 4.7 GHz stable overclock. That results in an average voltage of like 1.352V.

So just keep experimenting with the Offset using small amounts like 0.005, 0.010, 0.015, 0.020, etc. Every time you set it, boot into Windows and open CPU-Z and Prime95 Blend and run like a 30-second test or something just to see if you're getting the voltage you used to have.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


I noticed some earlier discussion about thermal paste. I will be buying some come Wednesday. What brand/which one do you recommend?

I've got Arctic Silver in my wishlist to buy on Newegg.










was using arctic silver 5 before and now switched to arctic cooling mx-4. the difference aint much, only about 1-2C difference on temps. plus no cure time for mx-4. i am against buying ultra expensive ones unless you are planning to push your rig to the limit.


----------



## turrican9

As far as I know, the thermal paste included with coolers like the CM Hyper 212+, NH-D14, and Corsair H50, H60, H70... are pretty good stuff. AS5 is also good enough.


----------



## TwoCables

I transferred this over to here because I finally realized I had hijacked ocococ's thread.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I get workers failing only when I try overclocking my mem too high. Like 1866. Oh, and also when I ran BCLK at 98MHz and was trying too high with too little Vcore, one worker failed. But I think it BSOD'd right after. At 100MHz BCLK I always get BSOD's if too little Vcore.

I assume you have made sure you're mem are stable before pushing your CPU?


To be honest, I've never learned how to properly make sure memory is stable.














However, I haven't had one single problem yet - not even a _tiny_ thing.


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


To be certain you'd have to retest. But it would most certainly be stable. Some are even down to 1.45v for CPU PLL.

Offset is pretty simple. The Offset you type in, is the Volts you add to the CPU's VID. However, the CPU's VID will increase with speed. So you gotta try it. Type in + 0.010 and boot Windows, see what you get under load, and work from there. If you need more, then type in more

Also, when using Offset, it could be a good idea to disable C3/C6 to avoid Idle BSOD's

btw: What I don't understand, is why I had to get one of the worst 2500K's in the whole wide world...











Well I think I'm in your club as one of my cores failed after 4 hours on blend overnight. And the real worrying thing was that I had an alert from AI suite that my motherboard temp was 121C!

As I'm on my way to work I'll have to check the rig later though I'm begining to think I should wind down the overclock in search of a stable 4.5 and low volts


----------



## Eaglake

Just before I updated my BIOS








I tried to OC and this showed when PC restarted


----------



## Cosmic Collision

I _think_ I've found my stable voltage that I tested yesterday using an offset of -0.030 (CPU-Z is showing 1.336V during prime testing, same as my 12 hour run). Also switched CPU PLL voltage to 1.7V

Aiming for 6 hours on this test. Hope it works out, I'd really like to start using this computer


----------



## Sammca

Can i join? why did everyone pick the pro? I got the p8p67 cheap so jumped on it.


----------



## Durden

I would say theres not too much difference.

(Taken from first page on this thread)









Its just down to whether or not you see yourself using some of the features the pro has over the base board.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sammca*


Can i join? why did everyone pick the pro? I got the p8p67 cheap so jumped on it.


Hello, and Welcome







Will add you in a moment. The PRO is just a little bit more expensive than the Vanilla. And the PRO supports SLI/Crossfire in x8 + x8, Vanilla supports only Crossfire in a crippled mode - x16 + x4. And if using that x4 slot, I think it will disable the USB 3.0 controller? Anyone?

Also, the PRO has a couple of other minor features. But If you are certain you will never use more than one GPU, then the Vanilla does the same job. Very nice board.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


Well I think I'm in your club as one of my cores failed after 4 hours on blend overnight. And the real worrying thing was that I had an alert from AI suite that my motherboard temp was 121C!

As I'm on my way to work I'll have to check the rig later though I'm begining to think I should wind down the overclock in search of a stable 4.5 and low volts


I also get those crazy alerts now and then. I've also seen some crazy values. If I remember correctly motherboard temp also showed a crazy value for me. Nothing to worry about. This is obviously buggy software. Use other monitoring software like HWiNFO or AIDA 64 Extreme. HWINFO is free Software though, and monitors everything.

If one of the cores are failing, and you do not get a BSOD, it could just as well be RAM problems. I always get a BSOD and a reboot If I have too little Vcore for CPU. Try setting your RAM to manual stock timings, also try and set Command Rate to 2t instead of AUTO. Additionally, you could try and set the mem to 1333 while finding your max CPU overclock.


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I also get those crazy alerts now and then. I've also seen some crazy values. If I remember correctly motherboard temp also showed a crazy value for me. Nothing to worry about. This is obviously buggy software. Use other monitoring software like HWiNFO or AIDA 64 Extreme. HWINFO is free Software though, and monitors everything.

If one of the cores are failing, and you do not get a BSOD, it could just as well be RAM problems. I always get a BSOD and a reboot If I have too little Vcore for CPU. Try setting your RAM to manual stock timings, also try and set Command Rate to 2t instead of AUTO. Additionally, you could try and set the mem to 1333 while finding your max CPU overclock.


I read on OCN that its software related. I mean at that temp all night i would have smelt something when near it and it seemed like it was running fine. I use HWMonitor as well as CPU-Z and RealTemp and nothing on those gave me any worry.

The temps were lower overnight too.. the previous temps i posted were high because i forgot (left) a box ontop of the case so there was no clear air flow out of the case









The Ram is currently set to Auto and only the CAS timing placed in. Its always the same core too that goes. The rest run fine throughout. The funny thing is when i did my 5 hour blend test earlier yesterday it went through fine.

I may just increase the vCore once more but to have 1.37v for a 4.6Ghz is poor


----------



## Sammca

Quote:



Hello, and Welcome







Will add you in a moment. The PRO is just a little bit more expensive than the Vanilla. And the PRO supports SLI/Crossfire in x8 + x8, Vanilla supports only Crossfire in a crippled mode - x16 + x4. And if using that x4 slot, I think it will disable the USB 3.0 controller? Anyone?

Also, the PRO has a couple of other minor features. But If you are certain you will never use more than one GPU, then the Vanilla does the same job. Very nice board.



Dammit was considering crossfiring my 5770, but if it'll turn out naff, i'll just upgrade the card.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sammca*


Dammit was considering crossfiring my 5770, but if it'll turn out naff, i'll just upgrade the card.


It's always smart to do a little research before buying a product. I've seen other people in here also unhappy over the Vanilla, because they had planned on going SLI.

There is a reason the PRO is as popular - It has all the important features of it's bigger brothers, and at a nice price.

The same can not be said for the Vanilla P8Z68-V. It has the most important features when compared to the P8Z68-V PRO. In the P8Z68-V, they have instead removed the Marvell Sata controller and the Firewire port, otherwise it has all the important features.


----------



## Sammca

Meh got it new for Â£90, so not to arsed.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammca;14256083*
> Meh got it new for £90, so not to arsed.


Just get some really supper single graphics card and


----------



## Sammca

Quote:


> Just get some really supper single graphics card and


Like what? any ati recommendations?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammca;14256144*
> Like what? any ati recommendations?


A HD5870 will be about the same speed as 2x 5770 in Crossfire, that is x8 + x8 Crossfire or x16 + x16.

However, a HD6950 is faster than a 5870, and can be unlocked into a HD6970.

So my recommandation for you, if ATI, is HD6950

Personally I prefer Nvidia. GTX 570 is about the same speed as a HD6970 and GTX 560 Ti is probably a tad weaker VS HD6950.. ?


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14256159*
> A HD5870 will be about the same speed as 2x 5770 in Crossfire, that is x8 + x8 Crossfire or x16 + x16.
> 
> However, a HD6950 is faster than a 5870, and can be unlocked into a HD6970.
> 
> So my recommandation for you, if ATI, is HD6950
> 
> Personally I prefer Nvidia. GTX 570 is about the same speed as a HD6970 and GTX 560 Ti is probably a tad weaker VS HD6950.. ?


I would research alot before making a choice as not all 6950's can be unlocked.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14256246*
> I would research alot before making a choice as not all 6950's can be unlocked.


A HD6950 is a good buy anyway. And unlocking it will not give it that much more performance.


----------



## Wabbit16

Turrican, I just realized how similar our systems are. Same CPU, CPU cooler, almost the same motherboard, the same type of case and GPU, and OS


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16;14256252*
> Turrican, I just realized how similar our systems are. Same CPU, CPU cooler, almost the same motherboard, the same type of case and GPU, and OS


Cool man







Not the same RAM and motherboard though









You who are into mATX board, I guess you've been drooling over the Gene-Z









btw: Reminder of the new Club signatures :

*Main Signature -* *>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>*


PHP:


[B][I][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>[/URL][/I][/B]

*For us P8P67 PRO Lovers







-* *>>The Official ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Club>>*


PHP:


[B][I][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]>>The Official ASUS P8P67 PRO Owners Club>>[/URL][/I][/B]


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sammca;14255960*
> Dammit was considering crossfiring my 5770, but if it'll turn out naff, i'll just upgrade the card.


i dont think the x16/x4 will have a huge difference compared to x8/x8. probably unless you are benching and watching numbers. i find it better to invest in a better gpu









however, if you want to go sli...then change boards.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14256340*
> i dont think the x16/x4 will have a huge difference compared to x8/x8. probably unless you are benching and watching numbers. i find it better to invest in a better gpu


What Load Vcore do you need for 4.6GHz? *Looking in your Signature*


----------



## Shame486




----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14256250*
> A HD6950 is a good buy anyway. And unlocking it will not give it that much more performance.


Very true and was going to be the card i bought before i got a nice bonus lol

I just meant that ATI are now laser cutting the extra shaders on the newer reference models.

I guess it comes down to budget though and what type of gaming your looking to do (resolution)


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14256359*
> What Load Vcore do you need for 4.6GHz? *Looking in your Signature*


i am getting 1.384 for 4.6 ghz. but this is only 10 hrs stable







i havent had a chance to test it 24/7 yet.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14256550*
> i am getting 1.384 for 4.6 ghz. but this is only 10 hrs stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i havent had a chance to test it 24/7 yet.


Tried to go lower? Using LLC at Ultra high? Mine will need about 1.4v + on full load for 4.6GHz and 12 hours + Blend Custom 6000MB.


----------



## Kinslayer

Hello all, I got a Asus P8Z68-V Pro Mobo as well









I need some Overclocking help please!! Hope this is the correct Post for this, if not please move me.

I got an I7 2600k with a Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler. My system runs around mid 30s when not being used and when gaming mid 40s - mid 50s. I never seen it go over 60 degrees yet and its running at default speed 3.4ghz.

I read about users overclocking the CPU to over 5ghz. What would you guys recommend I try first and what should I change my voltage settings too? I never did the overclocking thing before so please treat me as a noob









I also got the following RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws X + Fan Series DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000) 8GB (2x4GB) Dual Channel Kit

I got a Coolermaster 850 W PS as well.

and I have the Fan installed. I could really use some help with trying to overclock the Ram as well so please give me some settings for my board so I can run some tests!


----------



## sticks435

Hey all, has anyone experienced this? When I boot into windows, my USB devices take around 45 seconds to respond. everything else in windows will be booted up, but mouse/keybord/external HDD don't do anything. Eventually they make the sound like you just plugged them in and start working. I have everything plugged into the 4 black ports in the back.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kinslayer*


Hello all, I got a Asus P8Z68-V Pro Mobo as well









I need some Overclocking help please!! Hope this is the correct Post for this, if not please move me.

I got an I7 2600k with a Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler. My system runs around mid 30s when not being used and when gaming mid 40s - mid 50s. I never seen it go over 60 degrees yet and its running at default speed 3.4ghz.

I read about users overclocking the CPU to over 5ghz. What would you guys recommend I try first and what should I change my voltage settings too? I never did the overclocking thing before so please treat me as a noob









I also got the following RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws X + Fan Series DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000) 8GB (2x4GB) Dual Channel Kit

I got a Coolermaster 850 W PS as well.

and I have the Fan installed. I could really use some help with trying to overclock the Ram as well so please give me some settings for my board so I can run some tests!


Read the second post of this thread. It has all you need to know about overclocking these boards http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post13464107


----------



## Kinslayer

Thanks for your response. He's using a 2500k though so the settings might be slightly different then the 2600k right?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kinslayer*


Thanks for your response. He's using a 2500k though so the settings might be slightly different then the 2600k right?


It's the same. But each CPU overclocks differently, so you gotta try adjusting Vcore and run Prime 95 Blend to check for stability.


----------



## plumbroke318

May I join the club? Asus P8P67 WS Revolution B3 Mobo.


----------



## turrican9

Got really scared a while ago. I tried the Black RAM slots just for fun. Computer would not boot after I had moved the sticks from the Blue slots.

Then I moved them back, still no go.. I was sure I had damaged my motherboard. After fiddling back and forth, trying the mem OK! button, clear cmos with battery out I finally found the problem.. I had not pushed my RAM sticks far enough down in the slots, on the side with no locks. I really hate this thing. Much better with locks on both sides.. much easier to feel when the stick is all the way in. I'm not used to this. And only installed them once, when my motherboard was out of the case, when building this setup..

Oh, well... lesson learned..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *plumbroke318*


May I join the club? Asus P8P67 WS Revolution B3 Mobo.


Welcome to the Club mate







*Added to the list, as the 4th WS Revolution owner in this Club*


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Got really scared a while ago. I tried the Black RAM slots just for fun. Computer would not boot after I had moved the sticks from the Blue slots.

Then I moved them back, still no go.. I was sure I had damaged my motherboard. After fiddling back and forth, trying the mem OK! button, clear cmos with battery out I finally found the problem.. I had not pushed my RAM sticks far enough down in the slots, on the side with no locks. I really hate this thing. Much better with locks on both sides.. much easier to feel when the stick is all the way in. I'm not used to this. And only installed them once, when my motherboard was out of the case, when building this setup..

Oh, well... lesson learned..


Yeah, but once you get used to it, you'll be wondering how you ever put up with having locks on both sides.

The reason they designed it this way is so that it's easier to remove the memory while a long graphics card is installed. With having locks on both sides, I always found it much easier to remove my graphics card first. However, if all I wanted to do is remove my memory, then I used to get pissed because that meant I still had to remove my graphics card if I wanted the removal to be easy.

Although, the memory slots are a little higher up than they are on the EP45-UD3P that I had (which is what I am using for comparison here).


----------



## plumbroke318

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Got really scared a while ago. I tried the Black RAM slots just for fun. Computer would not boot after I had moved the sticks from the Blue slots.

Then I moved them back, still no go.. I was sure I had damaged my motherboard. After fiddling back and forth, trying the mem OK! button, clear cmos with battery out I finally found the problem.. I had not pushed my RAM sticks far enough down in the slots, on the side with no locks. I really hate this thing. Much better with locks on both sides.. much easier to feel when the stick is all the way in. I'm not used to this. And only installed them once, when my motherboard was out of the case, when building this setup..

Oh, well... lesson learned..


I agree it will take some time to get use to only having one side locking! I felt as if I was going to break my board making sure they were installed properly.


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


It's the same. But each CPU overclocks differently, so you gotta try adjusting Vcore and run Prime 95 Blend to check for stability.


Ok thanks a lot


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Yeah, but once you get used to it, you'll be wondering how you ever put up with having locks on both sides.


Yeah, as I've said, only done it once before, with mobo out of the case. In the past I have always installed DDR2 RAM with locks on both sides, and was used to that.

I think I got the hang of it now.. Now I can feel when their where they should be when I push down on the side with no locks... I just got really scared there for a bit...


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


IC diamond and Shin Etsu X23-7782D are my favs, those are among the best ones on the market.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


was using arctic silver 5 before and now switched to arctic cooling mx-4. the difference aint much, only about 1-2C difference on temps. plus no cure time for mx-4. i am against buying ultra expensive ones unless you are planning to push your rig to the limit.


I'm not planning on overclocking that much at all.. I'll take a look at the ones you've recommended. Thanks.


----------



## microman

just curious what everyone would say the best bios for P8P67 pro would be...


----------



## PrimeBurn

Sigh... After talking myself out of an upgrade for a couple weeks now, I finally pulled the trigger on a ASUS P8Z68-V PRO. I'm an addict. I need help.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


just curious what everyone would say the best bios for P8P67 pro would be...


I've tried 1502, 1606, 1704 and 1850. Not much difference for me. Only, on 1704 I had to disable C3/C6 to avoid Idle BSOD when using Offset Vcore. Not tried with them enabled at my current 1850 bios though.

btw: Added you to the owners litst. I see you are wearing the signature


----------



## TwoCables

Hey turrican9, I just had an idea: link every member name in your OP to their profiles. I don't mean to link them to their system or anything, just the profile itself.

My reason is that I am slightly colorblind for colors like red and green, blue and purple, etc. I can see colors just fine, but some colors look exactly the same as others. So when I'm looking through the list, I can't tell the difference between Indigo and Navy. Everyone's name from Boyboyd to Behemoth777 looks identical to me. So if I could just click their name, then I could go and click on their system to see which board they have.









If you don't have the time to do this, then I can do it and then send the change to you in a private message.

What do the rest of you think? Silly idea? Good idea? Would it be too busy since every single name would be underlined?


----------



## Kinslayer

So not sure whats going on but I tried overclocking my 2600k and its still showing default speed 3.4ghz when I reboot as well as in the BIOS but its showing 4.3ghz in turbo mode and 4.3 ghz in Cpu-Z. Should I have turbo mode disabled?

Just wondering why it doesn't pick it up everywhere else. Dxdiag also shows its running at 3.4 ghz









I just find it odd that I can only see 4.3ghz in 3rd party software. Shouldn't it show in Windows? If it only shows 3.4ghz in windows, does it even work at 4.3ghz? Sorry about all the newb questions..


----------



## Eaglake

It's not a bad idea

Guys can you help me out?
I don't know which one's the problems culprit, but OCing is quite ridiculous.
like 4.5GHz @ 1.4V if I take it to 4.6 then it hangs on boot.
I'm suspecting that may be the MB cause of them wires.
thought I'm not sure how to test which one CPU or MB failed.


----------



## bambino167

Is there anything wrong with this version http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0364220 
I find information on the R3.0 but not the R3.1.
Is there a big diffidence between the two cause around here at mirco center, there's only the R3.1 version


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kinslayer*


So not sure whats going on but I tried overclocking my 2600k and its still showing default speed 3.4ghz when I reboot as well as in the BIOS but its showing 4.3ghz in turbo mode and 4.3 ghz in Cpu-Z. Should I have turbo mode disabled?

Just wondering why it doesn't pick it up everywhere else. Dxdiag also shows its running at 3.4 ghz









I just find it odd that I can only see 4.3ghz in 3rd party software. Shouldn't it show in Windows? If it only shows 3.4ghz in windows, does it even work at 4.3ghz? Sorry about all the newb questions..


Everything you've described actually sounds perfectly normal to me. I mean, you're doing it right!

Keep going!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


It's not a bad idea

Guys can you help me out?
I don't know which one's the problems culprit, but OCing is quite ridiculous.
like 4.5GHz @ 1.4V if I take it to 4.6 then it hangs on boot.
I'm suspecting that may be the MB cause of them wires.
thought I'm not sure how to test which one CPU or MB failed.


What wires?

Also, what are your settings in Ai Tweaker?


----------



## Kinslayer

Hi Two Cables,

So you're saying its supposed to say 3.4ghz everywhere in Windows? That doesn't sound normal to me. How is windows supposed to know its 4.3ghz when everything says its 3.4ghz but cpuz?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kinslayer*


So not sure whats going on but I tried overclocking my 2600k and its still showing default speed 3.4ghz when I reboot as well as in the BIOS but its showing 4.3ghz in turbo mode and 4.3 ghz in Cpu-Z. Should I have turbo mode disabled?

Just wondering why it doesn't pick it up everywhere else. Dxdiag also shows its running at 3.4 ghz









I just find it odd that I can only see 4.3ghz in 3rd party software. Shouldn't it show in Windows? If it only shows 3.4ghz in windows, does it even work at 4.3ghz? Sorry about all the newb questions..


post your OC settings and people might be able to check your situation better. if you overclocked by manual vcore then it will stay at 4.3 ghz all the time (i assume that's your oc). if you used offset, whenever you restart/turn on your pc, after loading windows, it stays at turbo speed (4.3) for a while before dropping to 1.6 ghz.

for dxdiag, it will always show the default speed o.o


----------



## Stileth

Windows is just displaying the factory defaults of the CPU, so you can just ignore it and use CPU-Z to see real speed.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14265901*
> Hi Two Cables,
> 
> So you're saying its supposed to say 3.4ghz everywhere in Windows? That doesn't sound normal to me. How is windows supposed to know its 4.3ghz when everything says its 3.4ghz but cpuz?


It's just the way it is. I know what you're saying though: my previous CPU was the E8400, and Windows always reflected my overclock. If I made even a small change to the FSB, it would show it.

I think that the reason why it's as different as it is might be due to how we no longer have a FSB, and also because we leave the BCLK at 100. So I think that it's possible that Windows is just multiplying the BCLK by the stock multiplier of 34 (I mean, I think it doesn't know how to monitor the actual multiplier). Either that, or it isn't doing any calculating at all because there is no FSB.

So now we've been reduced to just relying on programs like CPU-Z. Although, that's fine with me because I've always done that anyway. I trust CPU-Z's readings more than anything.


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14266222*
> It's just the way it is. I know what you're saying though: my previous CPU was the E8400, and Windows always reflected my overclock. If I made even a small change to the FSB, it would show it.
> 
> I think that the reason why it's as different as it is might be due to how we no longer have a FSB, and also because we leave the BCLK at 100. So I think that it's possible that Windows is just multiplying the BCLK by the stock multiplier of 34 (I mean, I think it doesn't know how to monitor the actual multiplier). Either that, or it isn't doing any calculating at all because there is no FSB.
> 
> So now we've been reduced to just relying on programs like CPU-Z. Although, that's fine with me because I've always done that anyway. I trust CPU-Z's readings more than anything.


Ok so that's good enough for me if you're saying Windows 7 is running with what CPU-Z is saying. Still find it odd that Windows doesn't pick it up..that's microsoft for ya!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14266360*
> Ok so that's good enough for me if you're saying Windows 7 is running with what CPU-Z is saying. Still find it odd that Windows doesn't pick it up..that's microsoft for ya!


I think that it's because there is no FSB. Or it might be due to leaving the BCLK at 100.0 MHz. Plus, it's not able to see the multiplier we are using.

In other words, I think that Microsoft may either release an update to make Windows 7 more "compatible" with Sandy Bridge in this respect, or they might just make it work in their next version of Windows (which is currently codenamed Windows 8). I mean, they might make it so Windows is able to read the current multiplier and BCLK so that it can do the math in the same way CPU-Z is doing it.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14265864*
> 
> What wires?
> 
> Also, what are your settings in Ai Tweaker?


Oh sorry!
When the ChimpChallenge was, I OCed my pc to 4.8GHz. Everything was OK! but after a day or two PC started to reboot on it's own, then it wouldn't boot in to windows (hung up, no BSOD). So I wanted to do a little HW checkup. So I started to take everything apart and couldn't get out the EPS plug.
It was melted in and there where burnt wires.
So a week ago I got a replacement and soldered in the burnt one place.
So now I need higher voltages to boot it even up.
and I'm trying to understand which one CPU or MB is failed.

I'll post settings a bit later.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14264287*
> Hey turrican9, I just had an idea: link every member name in your OP to their profiles. I don't mean to link them to their system or anything, just the profile itself.
> 
> My reason is that I am slightly colorblind for colors like red and green, blue and purple, etc. I can see colors just fine, but some colors look exactly the same as others. So when I'm looking through the list, I can't tell the difference between Indigo and Navy. Everyone's name from Boyboyd to Behemoth777 looks identical to me. So if I could just click their name, then I could go and click on their system to see which board they have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't have the time to do this, then I can do it and then send the change to you in a private message.
> 
> What do the rest of you think? Silly idea? Good idea? Would it be too busy since every single name would be underlined?


Mate, I've tried to implement a solution now.. Take a look at it. Hope it's okay by you. I'd rather not have every member in the memberslist underlined. Also, needing to click on each member and go look at their system is a bit effort just to find out what motherboard they have.

btw: Even I think there is little difference between Indigo and Navy. I can see it, but can imagine that slightly colorblind people must have a hard time with those colors.

btw: Just for fun I started Prime95 Blend Custom 6000MB last night, at my usual 4.5GHz, Offset + 0.020 and LLC at Ultra high. To my surprise, when I wake up today, my system had rebooted itself... This setting has always been 12 hours + stable at the above mentioned settings...

So I started Blend again, and it has been running for a while now. Think I've found the problem... Looking in the HWiNFO monitoring utility I see that the Vdroop is larger than it used to be at my current settings... Vcore has been fluctuating from 1.352v up to 1.376v... (And who knows, maybe it had dropped even lower when it BSOD's and rebooted itself. I was asleep, so no way to know) In the past, it never dropped below 1.360v at my current settings. And I know this was absolutely at the limit, and could not go lower than this for 12 hours + Blend stable...

So the only thing I can think of is the 1850 Beta bios. I'm guessing the last time I was testing, I ran either the 1606 Beta bios or the 1502 bios... So I will try rolling back my bios and see if that fixes the Vdroop.

Anyway, just thought I should mention it..

Update: Trying the 1704 bios now. If that does not fix the Vdroop, I'll go for the 1606 Beta bios. (I hear some people claiming certain bioses will allow them to use a tad lower Vcore than previous bioses. Well, this is most certainly because of lesser Vdroop. Strange thing is that some claim the 1850 bios allowed for them to use lesser Vcore. Seems like it made a bigger Vdroop in my system).

Update2: The 1704 bios also made it drop down to 1.352v. So now trying the 1606 Beta bios.

Update3: It dropped to 1.352v also when using the 1606 bios. I've found old snapshots showing it did infact not drop below 1.360v using the same bios, Offset and usual settings. So there must be one setting causing this, that I've overlooked. I've tried to enable CPU Spread Spectrum now. Maybe it was enabled in previous testing.

*Update4: Wow! It actually looks as if Disabling CPU Spread Spectrum caused the extra Vdroop! After I enabled it, Vcore has not dropped under 1.360v at my current settings. Now I'm going back to the 1850 beta bios again, and with CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled. What a find. People say it should be disabled, but it actually causes bigger Vdroop in my system.*


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14267690*
> Mate, I've tried to implement a solution now.. Take a look at it. Hope it's okay by you. I'd rather not have every member in the memberslist underlined. Also, needing to click on each member and go look at their system is a bit effort just to find out what motherboard they have.


Great solution BTW:applaud:

PS - anyone else notice OCN is closing in on one million threads? 997,905 now, and seems to increase by 100 every two hours or so.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14267910*
> Great solution BTW:applaud:
> 
> PS - anyone else notice OCN is closing in on one million threads? 997,905 now, and seems to increase by 100 every two hours or so.


Thanks









Almost one million threads! Wow!


----------



## turrican9

Interesting. Look what I found...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14267690*
> btw: Just for fun I started Prime95 Blend Custom 6000MB last night, at my usual 4.5GHz, Offset + 0.020 and LLC at Ultra high. To my surprise, when I wake up today, my system had rebooted itself... This setting has always been 12 hours + stable at the above mentioned settings...
> 
> So I started Blend again, and it has been running for a while now. Think I've found the problem... Looking in the HWiNFO monitoring utility I see that the Vdroop is larger than it used to be at my current settings... Vcore has been fluctuating from 1.352v up to 1.376v... (And who knows, maybe it had dropped even lower when it BSOD's and rebooted itself. I was asleep, so no way to know) In the past, it never dropped below 1.360v at my current settings. And I know this was absolutely at the limit, and could not go lower than this for 12 hours + Blend stable...
> 
> So the only thing I can think of is the 1850 Beta bios. I'm guessing the last time I was testing, I ran either the 1606 Beta bios or the 1502 bios... So I will try rolling back my bios and see if that fixes the Vdroop.
> 
> Anyway, just thought I should mention it..
> 
> Update: Trying the 1704 bios now. If that does not fix the Vdroop, I'll go for the 1606 Beta bios. (I hear some people claiming certain bioses will allow them to use a tad lower Vcore than previous bioses. Well, this is most certainly because of lesser Vdroop. Strange thing is that some claim the 1850 bios allowed for them to use lesser Vcore. Seems like it made a bigger Vdroop in my system).
> 
> Update2: The 1704 bios also made it drop down to 1.352v. So now trying the 1606 Beta bios.
> 
> Update3: It dropped to 1.352v also when using the 1606 bios. I've found old snapshots showing it did infact not drop below 1.360v using the same bios, Offset and usual settings. So there must be one setting causing this, that I've overlooked. I've tried to enable CPU Spread Spectrum now. Maybe it was enabled in previous testing.
> 
> *Update4: Wow! It actually looks as if Disabling CPU Spread Spectrum caused the extra Vdroop! After I enabled it, Vcore has not dropped under 1.360v at my current settings. Now I'm going back to the 1850 beta bios again, and with CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled. What a find. People say it should be disabled, but it actually causes bigger Vdroop in my system.*


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14267690*
> *Update4: Wow! It actually looks as if Disabling CPU Spread Spectrum caused the extra Vdroop! After I enabled it, Vcore has not dropped under 1.360v at my current settings. Now I'm going back to the 1850 beta bios again, and with CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled. What a find. People say it should be disabled, but it actually causes bigger Vdroop in my system.*


Ill test this out myself to see it it affects me.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14268257*
> Ill test this out myself to see it it affects me.


I'm at the 1850 bios again. And when I left CPU Spread Spectrum at AUTO it dropped to 1.352v again. So tried to ENABLE it now. If that does not work, it was the 1606 bios with it at AUTO or ENABLED that kept it from falling under 1.360v.

To quickly test this, I'm using Prime 95 Blend Custom 6000MB and 1 minute per FFT. Also using HWiNFO that monitors current, min and max on everything, and logs it. Very nice monitoring software.

Update:
With CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled at 1850 bios, so far so good... Still 1.360v at min. Seems it should not be left at 'AUTO', but 'ENABLED'

Update2: It dropped again. It seems the combination of the older 1606 bios and CPU Spread Spectrum at AUTO/Enabled did the trick.

Update3: Trying CPU Spread Spectrum at AUTO with the 1704 bios.


----------



## nawon72

There seems to be no difference for me. The Vcore min and max is the same with CPU Spread Spectrum enabled or disabled. And it seemed to average the same throughout the test. The only way to know for sure is to measure the voltage directly, instead of using software. Also, i'm using LLC high, if it makes a difference.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14268509*
> There seems to be no difference for me. The Vcore min and max is the same with CPU Spread Spectrum enabled or disabled. And it seemed to average the same throughout the test. The only way to know for sure is to measure the voltage directly, instead of using software. Also, i'm using LLC high, if it makes a difference.


With CPU Spread Spectrum at AUTO it has not dropped below 1.360v with the 1704 bios yet.

My test results - 4.5GHz, LLC Ultra High, Offset + 0.020

1606 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Disabled: Vcore - 1.352v - 1.376v

1606 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled/Auto: Vcore - *1.360v - 1.376v*

1704 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Disabled: Vcore - 1.352v - 1.376v

1704 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled/Auto: Vcore - *1.352v - 1.376v*

1850 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Disabled: Vcore - 1.352v - 1.376v

1850 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled/Auto: Vcore - *1.352v - 1.376v*

So it seems it drops to 1.352 no matter what CPU Spread Spectrum setting on the 1850 bios. For me this is the difference between a 12 hours + Custom Blend 6000MB stable or not. Because it crashed with the 1850 bios on a Blend run, where it previously had been stable. That is how I found this...

Update: It fell to 1.352 just now, using the 1704 bios. So it seems the 1606 bios caused it to not drop below 1.360v when Spread Spectrum was at AUTO. This was the bios I had done my 12 hours + Blend runs on earlier.

Testing with the 1606 bios again, to make absolutely sure it will not fall below 1.360v when CPU Spread Spectrum is at AUTO. But as I've said, I have snapshots from my 12 hours + stable Blend run, showing it not falling below 1.360v with the 1606 bios. And yet it will not spike higher VS 1704 or 1850. 1.376v is the absolute max when Prime Blend. This shows that the 1606 bios is delivering a more consistent and less fluctuating Vcore VS later bioses, in my system.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14268561*
> With CPU Spread Spectrum at AUTO it has not dropped below 1.360v with the 1704 bios yet.
> 
> My test results - 4.5GHz, LLC Ultra High, Offset + 0.020
> 
> 1606 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Disabled: Vcore - 1.352v - 1.376v
> 
> 1606 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled/Auto: Vcore - *1.360v - 1.376v*
> 
> 1704 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Disabled: Vcore - 1.352v - 1.376v
> 
> 1704 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled/Auto: Vcore - *1.352v - 1.376v*
> 
> 1850 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Disabled: Vcore - 1.352v - 1.376v
> 
> 1850 bios: CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled/Auto: Vcore - *1.352v - 1.376v*
> 
> So it seems it drops to 1.352 no matter what CPU Spread Spectrum setting on the 1850 bios. For me this is the difference between a 12 hours + Custom Blend 6000MB stable or not. Because it crashed with the 1850 bios on a Blend run, where it previously had been stable. That is how I found this...
> 
> Update: It fell to 1.352 just now, using the 1704 bios. So it seems the 1606 bios caused it to not drop below 1.360v when Spread Spectrum was at AUTO. This was the bios I had done my 12 hours + Blend runs on earlier.


So are you going to flash to 1606 and test again? If not, then you should stop and get a device for measuring the voltage without using software. Otherwise you won't know for sure if there is any difference. Especially since the software doesn't measure the Vcore accurately. I like to think of software monitoring as a good(enough) guess. But i wouldn't trust it for a scientific test.

Edit: I see you already flashed to 1606 and are testing now. Continue with that and let us know your results, but if you want to take it further i recommend listening to the above.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14268757*
> So are you going to flash to 1606 and test again? If not, then you should stop and get a device for measuring the voltage without using software. Otherwise you won't know for sure if there is any difference. Especially since the software doesn't measure the Vcore accurately. I like to think of software monitoring as a good(enough) guess. But i wouldn't trust it for a scientific test.
> 
> Edit: I see you already flashed to 1606 and are testing now. Continue with that and let us know your results, but if you want to take it further i recommend listening to the above.


1606 bios is not dropping below 1.360v. Prime95 Blend has gone much longer than 1704 and 1850 did, without dropping below 1.360v. And as I've said, I have a 12 hours + Blend snapshot showing it did never drop below 1.360v when using the 1606 bios.

And I don't need to meassure, because it is proof enough that Blend failed when using the 1850 bios at the same settings as with 1606. It failed because the Vcore dropped below 1.360v. So it seems the 1606 bios is the better one when it comes to a more stable Vcore. CPU Spread Spectrum needs to be at AUTO or Enabled though.

I would advice you to test this with the 1606 bios yourself. You might be in for a good surprise









The best way to test this is to use Blend Custom and 1 minute per FFT. The switching between different FFT sizes causes the variations in Load Voltage. And bigger Vdroop will make it harder to be stable. The lesser fluctuation, the better. And the 1606 bios seems like the better one in this matter.


----------



## Alex132

I'm still on 1606


----------



## turrican9

It has been going for 30 minutes with Blend custom 1 minute per FFT and still not dropped below 1.360v. With 1704 and 1850 it would drop a little bit after 10 minutes, or sooner. And as I've said, I have proofs from earlier 12 hours + snapshots.

And again, CPU Spread Spectrum needs to be at AUTO or Enabled.

If I remember correctly, the 1502 bios was the same as the 1606 in this matter. Other changes I noticed when I upgraded to 1704 and 1850 was:

I needed to disable C3/C6 when using Offset Vcore, to avoid Idle BSOD.
The CPU would downclock the moment I entered Windows. 1502 and 1606 took a while before it downclocked.

Using the Silent CPU Fan Profile in 1704 and 1850 lowered the Fan RPM under load VS 1606 in Silent Mode.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;14268910*
> I'm still on 1606


I was on 1606 2 days ago...







Im not sure if flashing to 1606 again is worth the slightly more stable Vcore. Doesn't 1704 have other improvements?

Off topic - I predict 1,000,000 threads at 10am July 21st PST, anyone else want to make a guess?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14268978*
> I was on 1606 2 days ago...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure if flashing to 1606 again is worth the slightly more stable Vcore. Doesn't 1704 have other improvements?


Look above. For me, having a more stable Vcore is critical. I will stay with 1606 from now on.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14269019*
> Look above. For me, having a more stable Vcore is critical. I will stay with 1606 from now on.


I think ASUS will have a new BIOS within the month, based on their release dates for the Beta BIOS's. Ill be waiting for it, unless it fails hard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14268950*
> 
> I needed to disable C3/C6 when using Offset Vcore, to avoid Idle BSOD.
> The CPU would downclock the moment I entered Windows. 1502 and 1606 took a while before it downclocked.


So using 1606 and 1502, you enabled C3 and C6 and didn't idle BSOD with the same OC as 1704 and 1802(also, what clock)? If that's the case, then which BIOS do you recommend, 1606 or 1502?

What do you mean by downclock? Do you mean EIST kicks in?


----------



## Alex132

I fold on this so, yeah stability means a lot to me


----------



## turrican9

Here is a picture from the Sandy Stable Club of a 4.7GHz run I did. Here I used the 1704 bios. And in HWiNFO one can see the Vcore fluctuations. At that time I didn't know the 1606 bios fluctuated the Vcore less. So I will try 4.7GHz now, with the excact same settings, only with the 1606 bios now. I'm sure I will get the same results as I do at 4.5GHz. Less fluctuation.


----------



## turrican9

So far I'm getting 1.440v - 1.456v (one minute per FFT) with the 1606 bios VS the picture using the 1704 bios at the same settings: 1.432v - 1.464v.

My guess is, it will stay this way. As proven earlier, more stable Vcore with the 1606 (Probably identical to the 1502 bios) VS 1704 and 1850.


----------



## Alex132

Getting 1.364-1.4v for 4.8Ghz, hate the fluctuation


----------



## turrican9

Because of the lesser fluctuation with the 1606 bios I'm trying 4.8GHz now, at the same Vcore used for 4.7GHz. I suspect there are big fluctuations at those higher speeds with the 1704 and 1850 bioses, because even at 1.47 -1.48v Vcore I could not make it 12 hours + Blend stable at 4.8GHz, using 1704 and 1850 bioses. And who knows how big those fluctuations really was, because when it BSOD's and you're not there, it is impossible to say.

Prime95 Blend is running fine now at 4.8GHz Custom 6000MB (Rush testing with 1 minute per FFT) at the same Vcore settings used for 4.7GHz with the 1704 bios. Lol! Had I known this earlier.


----------



## nawon72

Im getting less fluctuation then both of you. 1.392-1.416(0.024V difference) is what i was getting using Turrican's test at 4.8GHz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14268950*
> 
> I needed to disable C3/C6 when using Offset Vcore, to avoid Idle BSOD.
> The CPU would downclock the moment I entered Windows. 1502 and 1606 took a while before it downclocked.


So using 1606 and 1502, you enabled C3 and C6 and didn't idle BSOD with the same OC as 1704 and 1802(also, what clock)? If that's the case, then which BIOS do you recommend, 1606 or 1502?

What do you mean by downclock? Do you mean EIST kicks in?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14269313*
> Because of the lesser fluctuation with the 1606 bios I'm trying 4.8GHz now, at the same Vcore used for 4.7GHz. I suspect there are big fluctuations at those higher speeds with the 1704 and 1850 bioses, because even at 1.47 -1.48v Vcore I could not make it 12 hours + Blend stable at 4.8GHz, using 1704 and 1850 bioses. And who knows how big those fluctuations really was, because when it BSOD's and you're not there, it is impossible to say.


Use AI Suite sensor recorder to log your temps and Vcore.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14269318*
> Im getting less fluctuation then both of you. 1.392-1.416(0.024V difference) is what i was getting using Turrican's test at 4.8GHz.
> 
> So using 1606 and 1502, you enabled C3 and C6 and didn't idle BSOD with the same OC as 1704 and 1802(also, what clock)? If that's the case, then which BIOS do you recommend, 1606 or 1502?
> 
> What do you mean by downclock? Do you mean EIST kicks in?


Yes, I can't remember, but I think I tested this at 4.5GHz. C3/C6 could be enabled without BSOD'ing on the 1502 and 1606.

I think the 1502 and 1606 is very similar to each other. Right now 1606 is working like a dream for me. Much better VS 1704 and 1850.

I meant the EIST yes. Look in the above post. For me, the 1606 bios is really doing a BIG difference here!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14269352*
> Yes, I can't remember, but I think I tested this at 4.5GHz. C3/C6 could be enabled without BSOD'ing on the 1502 and 1606.


Did you have internal pll overvoltage enabled?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14269406*
> Did you have internal pll overvoltage enabled?


Can't remember. But I have left it Disabled the last month. Tested my CPU fine up to 49x multi with it disabled.

I urge you to try the 1606 bios again, with CPU Spread Spectrum at AUTO or Enabled and Offset Vcore. I'm getting much better results here VS 1704 and 1850 bioses.


----------



## tlovhak

My 922 front and top fan (connected to motherboard) are spinning pretty low ( 500 - 700 rpm ) How can I tweak it on the p8p67 pro bios ? Should I just plug them to the PSU instead ?


----------



## munaim1

Hey _*Turrican *_thanks for all the info about the bios, would I be able to go ahead and downgrade from 1704 to 1606 or would I need to do something 'fancy'??

Thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlovhak*


My 922 front and top fan (connected to motherboard) are spinning pretty low ( 500 - 700 rpm ) How can I tweak it on the p8p67 pro bios ? Should I just plug them to the PSU instead ?


Go under Advanced and Monitor and try to change the Fan profiles...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14270795*
> Hey _*Turrican*_ thanks for all the info about the bios, would I be able to go ahead and downgrade from 1704 to 1606 or would I need to do something 'fancy'??
> 
> Thanks


Yes, you can downgrade all the way down to 1502 using EZ utility in bios. But not lower than 1502. And no special/fancy trick is needed.


----------



## nicolasl46

^ there should be a monitoring tab where you can change the fan monitor settings (can't really remember now) you should be able to choose between silent, normal, turbo, or user (depending on the fan header) but I believe that the CHA_FAN option controls chassis fans 1 and 2 (can't remember much, I recently change my board)


----------



## Gnator

I need some help I oced my i7 2600k on asus p8p67 mobo to 4.3ghz at -1.20 offset and now it doesn't come out of sleep. Whenever I tried to wake it up it gives me 3 beeps. I looked online and people suggested to reseating my video card which I did but it didn't fix the problem. The only other setting I have changed in the BIOS is load calibration to optimized, spread spectrum to auto and downvolted my DRAM from 1.65 to 1.50 volts.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14270807*
> Yes, you can downgrade all the way down to 1502 using EZ utility in bios. But not lower than 1502. And no special/fancy trick is needed.


Cool thanks bud







I just realised that I have all 8 profiles saved, benching & suicide profiles and such, IIRC between bios upgrades they dont get transfered, damn it. Will have to write them down and do it, might even give it a miss and just wait until the next BIOS release.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gnator;14271052*
> I need some help I oced my i7 2600k on asus p8p67 mobo to 4.3ghz at -1.20 offset and now it doesn't come out of sleep. Whenever I tried to wake it up it gives me 3 beeps. I looked online and people suggested to reseating my video card which I did but it didn't fix the problem. The only other setting I have changed in the BIOS is load calibration to optimized, spread spectrum to auto and downvolted my DRAM from 1.65 to 1.50 volts.


If you had read the first post of this Club you would have probably seen the solution. Please disable the Internal PLL Overvoltage feature. This is a known problem, affecting Hibernate.


----------



## tlovhak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


^ there should be a monitoring tab where you can change the fan monitor settings (can't really remember now) you should be able to choose between silent, normal, turbo, or user (depending on the fan header) but I believe that the CHA_FAN option controls chassis fans 1 and 2 (can't remember much, I recently change my board)



I set them to 100% on Aisuit II I'am now at 769 rpm and 697 rpm. I Guess it's the normal speed for Haf922 200mm and 180mm fan? Can someone confirm that?


----------



## turrican9

This with the bioses, it only goes to show - Don't fix it if it ain't broken.

I was perfectly/am Prime95 Blend stable with the 1606 bios at 4.5GHz and Offset at + 0.020 and was not with the 1704 and 1850 bios, because of larger Vdroop with those bioses.

I've learned my lesson once again.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlovhak*


I set them to 100% on Aisuit II I'am now at 769 rpm and 697 rpm. I Guess it's the normal speed for Haf922 200mm and 180mm fan? Can someone confirm that?


well, my understanding was that bigger fans (180-200mm) move more air with less RPMs compared to smaller ones. So I think it might be normal.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Mate, I've tried to implement a solution now.. Take a look at it. Hope it's okay by you. I'd rather not have every member in the memberslist underlined. Also, needing to click on each member and go look at their system is a bit effort just to find out what motherboard they have.


The change you made is absolutely genius.









However, I need to clarify something: I was not recommending that you make it so everyone must click a member's name in order to go look at the member's system. All I said was that _*I*_ had to do that because I can not see a difference between Navy and Indigo. So I had to go look at each of those profiles to see who had what. Therefore, if each name were linked to their profile, then I wouldn't have had to spend all that time using the search feature in Members List. Instead, all I would have had to do is click the member's name.

So what I was saying was to just make one small change: link every name to their profile for people like me who are having a hard time seeing the difference between some colors - or who just want to see what *else* is in their system!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


btw: Even I think there is little difference between Indigo and Navy. I can see it, but can imagine that slightly colorblind people must have a hard time with those colors.


Yeah, they look almost identical to me. I mean, I think the only way I'd ever see a difference is if I studied the colors extremely carefully for several minutes.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


btw: Just for fun I started Prime95 Blend Custom 6000MB last night, at my usual 4.5GHz, Offset + 0.020 and LLC at Ultra high. To my surprise, when I wake up today, my system had rebooted itself... This setting has always been 12 hours + stable at the above mentioned settings...

So I started Blend again, and it has been running for a while now. Think I've found the problem... Looking in the HWiNFO monitoring utility I see that the Vdroop is larger than it used to be at my current settings... Vcore has been fluctuating from 1.352v up to 1.376v... (And who knows, maybe it had dropped even lower when it BSOD's and rebooted itself. I was asleep, so no way to know) In the past, it never dropped below 1.360v at my current settings. And I know this was absolutely at the limit, and could not go lower than this for 12 hours + Blend stable...

So the only thing I can think of is the 1850 Beta bios. I'm guessing the last time I was testing, I ran either the 1606 Beta bios or the 1502 bios... So I will try rolling back my bios and see if that fixes the Vdroop.

Anyway, just thought I should mention it..

Update: Trying the 1704 bios now. If that does not fix the Vdroop, I'll go for the 1606 Beta bios. (I hear some people claiming certain bioses will allow them to use a tad lower Vcore than previous bioses. Well, this is most certainly because of lesser Vdroop. Strange thing is that some claim the 1850 bios allowed for them to use lesser Vcore. Seems like it made a bigger Vdroop in my system).

Update2: The 1704 bios also made it drop down to 1.352v. So now trying the 1606 Beta bios.

Update3: It dropped to 1.352v also when using the 1606 bios. I've found old snapshots showing it did infact not drop below 1.360v using the same bios, Offset and usual settings. So there must be one setting causing this, that I've overlooked. I've tried to enable CPU Spread Spectrum now. Maybe it was enabled in previous testing.

*Update4: Wow! It actually looks as if Disabling CPU Spread Spectrum caused the extra Vdroop! After I enabled it, Vcore has not dropped under 1.360v at my current settings. Now I'm going back to the 1850 beta bios again, and with CPU Spread Spectrum Enabled. What a find. People say it should be disabled, but it actually causes bigger Vdroop in my system.*


Spread Spectrum should be enabled anyway. I mean, things are much much different now: everything should be left enabled unless it's known to be causing problems. I mean I know that in times past with the older platforms (especially 775), disabling things like Spread Spectrum, EIST and C1E was basically a requirement. With Sandy Bridge, it's basically the other way around: leaving these things enabled as well as all three C-states is supposed to better.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


Oh sorry!
When the ChimpChallenge was, I OCed my pc to 4.8GHz. Everything was OK! but after a day or two PC started to reboot on it's own, then it wouldn't boot in to windows (hung up, no BSOD). So I wanted to do a little HW checkup. So I started to take everything apart and couldn't get out the EPS plug.
It was melted in and there where burnt wires.
So a week ago I got a replacement and soldered in the burnt one place.
So now I need higher voltages to boot it even up.
and I'm trying to understand which one CPU or MB is failed.

I'll post settings a bit later.

http://www.failiem.lv/thumb_show.php...0719102848.BMP

http://www.failiem.lv/thumb_show.php...0719102914.BMP


Unfortunately, I don't have any time left (I'm running late for something), but I really feel like I need to say this:

Please replace these screenshots with .PNG versions. Just open them up in Microsoft Paint and save them as .PNGs. Then upload them and delete the .BMPs.

Either that, or upload them to ImageShack or something because they are taking forever to load for me. So it's a combination of them being BMPs (much larger file size than .PNGs), and being on a slow server.

Anyway, I can say a few things about your settings right now:

Change the following and use these values:

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140% (I know it turns red, but we know what we are doing)
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: Start with 0.005V for now, and then gradually increase it by 0.005V increments.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


The change you made is absolutely genius.









However, I need to clarify something: I was not recommending that you make it so everyone must click a member's name in order to go look at the member's system. All I said was that _*I*_ had to do that because I can not see a difference between Navy and Indigo. So I had to go look at each of those profiles to see who had what. Therefore, if each name were linked to their profile, then I wouldn't have had to spend all that time using the search feature in Members List. Instead, all I would have had to do is click the member's name.

So what I was saying was to just make one small change: link every name to their profile for people like me who are having a hard time seeing the difference between some colors - or who just want to see what *else* is in their system![/LIST]


And I meant you







I meant it would be too much hassle for you to go see in each persons profile, to find out what motherboard they have. And other people who are colorblind. That is why I came to the conclusion, that lead to my solution, mate







Also, it would be more hassle for me to hyperlink each OCN member to their profiles.

And to not discriminate other people that may be colorblind I found this simple solution. Tried to make it as little 'stand-out' as I could.


----------



## turrican9

*ACHILEE5*

Mate, please tell us about your Dual GPU config in your ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0, how it performs and how you feel about it.

Also, feel free to talk about why you made the decision of running at 'only' 4.3GHz with your Core i7 2600K...


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Unfortunately, I don't have any time left (I'm running late for something), but I really feel like I need to say this:

Please replace these screenshots with .PNG versions. Just open them up in Microsoft Paint and save them as .PNGs. Then upload them and delete the .BMPs.

Either that, or upload them to ImageShack or something because they are taking forever to load for me. So it's a combination of them being BMPs (much larger file size than .PNGs), and being on a slow server.

Anyway, I can say a few things about your settings right now:

Change the following and use these values:

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140% (I know it turns red, but we know what we are doing)
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: Start with 0.005V for now, and then gradually increase it by 0.005V increments.



OK!
Changed the pictures.

But You see OCing as the thing itself isn't problem to me, I've read SB OCing guides, peoples experiences and such.
Problem is that something is wrong with pc itself. Is it CPU or MB? Or it's impossible to judge from symptoms I'm experiencing.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


And I meant you







I meant it would be too much hassle for you to go see in each persons profile, to find out what motherboard they have.


Like I said, I already did that. I mean, I said that that's what I had to do in order to find out where Indigo changed to Navy.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


And other people who are colorblind. That is why I came to the conclusion, that lead to my solution, mate










I still think it's genius!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Also, it would be more hassle for me to hyperlink each OCN member to their profiles.


That's why I said that *I* could do it and then send it to you in a private message. I probably have more time on my hands than anyone here.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


And to not discriminate other people that may be colorblind I found this simple solution. Tried to make it as little 'stand-out' as I could.


No one who has any colorblindness would see it as discrimination or anything of that sort. They wouldn't even know the reason why the change was made.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


OK!
Changed the pictures.


They load a little faster, but they're still taking a long time to load. So maybe it's time to start using ImageShack or something.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


But You see OCing as the thing itself isn't problem to me, I've read SB OCing guides, peoples experiences and such.
Problem is that something is wrong with pc itself. Is it CPU or MB? Or it's impossible to judge from symptoms I'm experiencing.


I confess that I forgot all about that.

It sounds to me like maybe the motherboard might need to be replaced because after all, you found the EPS12V cable melted onto the connector.

*Edit:* I was previously running late for band practice, but we had severe storms roll through today and I just now found out that practice is cancelled because the place where we practice has no power. Plus, our lead guitarist is the manager of an indoor ice arena and their power went out too, so he has to stay at work and deal with that.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I still think it's genius!

That's why I said that *I* could do it and then send it to you in a private message. I probably have more time on my hands than anyone here.


Thanks...

My simpler solution is better for all, in my opinion. Anyway, glad you agree


----------



## mothow

Anyone try the new beta bios for the P8Z68 mobo's / Beta Version 0651 ?

P8Z68-V Pro 0651 Beta BIOS
Improve system stability.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Thanks...

My simpler solution is better for all, in my opinion. Anyway, glad you agree










You're welcome, but thank you for making the good change!

And now for something completely different:

I finally stress tested my 4.8GHz settings last night (the settings below), and it only lasted 7 hours and 16 minutes.


*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign: *+
*CPU Offset Voltage: *0.030V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

With these settings, my core voltage hovered about 1.376V most of the time. My max temperature was also about 70Â°C. Although, it might have been 72Â°C... I can't remember for some reason. Anyway, I increased the Offset from 0.030V to 0.035V, and I'll begin testing it right before going to sleep (but I have n idea when that will be).

With the Offset at 0.035V, the core voltage now hovers at around 1.384.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


You're welcome, but thank you for making the good change!

And now for something completely different:

I finally stress tested my 4.8GHz settings last night (the settings below), and it only lasted 7 hours and 16 minutes.


*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign: *+
*CPU Offset Voltage: *0.030V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

With these settings, my core voltage hovered about 1.376V most of the time. My max temperature was also about 70Â°C. Although, it might have been 72Â°C... I can't remember for some reason. Anyway, I increased the Offset from 0.030V to 0.035V, and I'll begin testing it right before going to sleep (but I have n idea when that will be).

With the Offset at 0.035V, the core voltage now hovers at around 1.384.


If you've read the last couple of pages, maybe you should give the 1606 bios a shot...


----------



## MystKid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


And... ? Did you wanna be added to the Club?










yes. how can i be added


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


If you've read the last couple of pages, maybe you should give the 1606 bios a shot...










I read some of that, but I'm not interested in messing with it like that (at least not yet).


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MystKid*


yes. how can i be added


I've added you. Welcome


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


Cool thanks bud







I just realised that I have all 8 profiles saved, benching & suicide profiles and such, IIRC between bios upgrades they dont get transfered, damn it. Will have to write them down and do it, might even give it a miss and just wait until the next BIOS release.










I think ill just wait for the next BIOS aswell. Mostly because im afraid to flash my mobo too many times. I heard its not a good idea







Plus i don't get the large Vcore fluctuations like Turrican and Alex. Im going to guess it has to do with my power supply having very good ripple suppression









Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlovhak*


I set them to 100% on Aisuit II I'am now at 769 rpm and 697 rpm. I Guess it's the normal speed for Haf922 200mm and 180mm fan? Can someone confirm that?


Just look up the model of the fan on Google or NewEgg. If the 200mm fan is this one, then it is normal. Just remember that it is a *200mm* fan, so it won't be spinning very fast.


----------



## L36

Anyone using the beta BIOS for ASUS P8Z68-V PRO, the 0651?
Any problems?


----------



## Kinslayer

Ok so the Prime 95 stress test went perfect for 8 hours with 4.3ghz. I am trying 4.8 GHZ right now. I didn't mess around with the voltage settings, left them on auto.

The core Voltage with CPU-Z shows 1.488-1.516V. That seems kind of high. Should I manually lower it?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277045*
> Ok so the Prime 95 stress test went perfect for 8 hours with 4.3ghz. I am trying 4.8 GHZ right now. I didn't mess around with the voltage settings, left them on auto.
> 
> The core Voltage with CPU-Z shows 1.488-1.516V. That seems kind of high. Should I manually lower it?


That's actually more than just "kind of" high.

Use these settings (I am merely hoping they're in the same format for you). These are my settings for 4.8 GHz, currently not tested. However, I already know that one single voltage bump down from this lasts 7 hours and 16 minutes:


*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz (use your clock speed)

*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T (use your timings)

*CPU Power Management:* all power-saving features and what-not are fully enabled, such as EIST and the C-states

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.035V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled


----------



## Kinslayer

Will it harm my CPU if I run it at that voltage? I'll try what you suggested.

I just did it with the settings you recommend and its even higher now. 1.56V


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277257*
> Will it harm my CPU if I run it at that voltage? I'll try what you suggested.


It might if it's left like that "permanently". However, it's absolutely harmless for short periods of time.


----------



## nawon72

TwoCables, are you getting a new monitor to go with your GTX 580? The one you currently have shouldn't be paired with that card.

And did you OC your RAM?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14277298*
> TwoCables, are you getting a new monitor to go with your GTX 580? The one you currently have shouldn't be paired with that card.


I'm not made out of money.

However, why should it not be paired with it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14277298*
> And did you OC your RAM?


Nope, but I don't need to at all.


----------



## iLLGT3

Bought another P8P67 (vanilla) and some Arctic Thermal Paste.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14277341*
> Bought another P8P67 (vanilla) and some Arctic Thermal Paste.


You who had the Vanilla that 'blew up'?


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277282*
> It might if it's left like that "permanently". However, it's absolutely harmless for short periods of time.


Its only showing 1.36V in the BIOS but CPU-Z is showing 1.56V. Should I just set it manually?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277372*
> Its only showing 1.36V in the BIOS but CPU-Z is showing 1.56V. Should I just set it manually?


Did you copy all of my settings _exactly_?

Also, make sure all of the C-states are enabled (they really should be enabled) as well as Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology.


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277378*
> Did you copy all of my settings _exactly_?
> 
> Also, make sure all of the C-states are enabled (they really should be enabled) as well as Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology.


Yes I did. But I noticed we got diff CPU's and different Mobo's as well. What do you think I should do?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277404*
> Yes I did. But I noticed we got diff CPU's and different Mobo's as well. What do you think I should do?


I think you should make sure all of the C-states are enabled (they really should be enabled) including C1E as well as Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology.


----------



## Kinslayer

Prettty sure they are be default but let me doublecheck. brb


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

If going for low clocks and Offset Vcore, - (negative) Offset is a must. The VID in itself is usually too high for the 4GHz - 4.5GHz range. Especially when LLC is at Ultra High. I guess you know about negative Offset?









Also, on later than 1606 bios (1704 and 1850) C3/C6 can/will often cause Idle BSOD's when overclocking and Offset Vcore is used.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277427*
> Prettty sure they are be default but let me doublecheck. brb


Find and enable Turbo Mode too.


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14277358*
> You who had the Vanilla that 'blew up'?


Yup. I'm not the only one with a fire that broke out in the same place either. This is a rare problem with these boards from what I have read and seen on other forums. Others have burn marks in the same exact place as mine.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14277490*
> Yup. I'm not the only one with a fire that broke out in the same place either. This is a rare problem with these boards from what I have read and seen on other forums. Others have burn marks in the same exact place as mine.


Do you mean only the 'vanilla' P8P67s, or *all* of the P8P67 series boards?


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277408*
> I think you should make sure all of the C-states are enabled (they really should be enabled) including C1E as well as Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology.


Ok Speedstep was enabled but I noticed that the Vram thing went down to 300 even though I saved it at 350 and the offset voltage went back to auto when I went back in. The BIOS CPU Voltage said 1.412V and all of the C states are enabled and switched from Auto.

However, CPU-Z is jumping from 4800 to 1600 now which it wasn't before. I can't get an accurate voltage setting from it but it doesn't appear to be going over 1.45V.


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277507*
> Do you mean only the 'vanilla' P8P67s, or *all* of the P8P67 series boards?


2 others were vanilla and one was a pro


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277513*
> Ok Speedstep was enabled but I noticed that the Vram thing went down to 300 even though I saved it at 350 and the offset voltage went back to auto when I went back in. The BIOS CPU Voltage said 1.412V and all of the C states are enabled and switched from Auto.
> 
> However, CPU-Z is jumping from 4800 to 1600 now which it wasn't before. I can't get an accurate voltage setting from it but it doesn't appear to be going over 1.45V.


In Advanced > CPU Configuration, make sure Turbo Mode is enabled too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14277519*
> 2 others were vanilla and one was a pro


Oh boy. Then it looks like I can only hope it doesn't happen to me!


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277542*
> In Advanced > CPU Configuration, make sure Turbo Mode is enabled too.
> 
> Yes, I been using Turbo mode to adjust the multiplier not the CPU one in the Advanced Section.
> 
> CPU-Z is still all over the place. It sometimes hits 1.5V too


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277564*
> Yes, I been using Turbo mode to adjust the multiplier not the CPU one in the Advanced Section.


I'm not not referring to "Turbo Ratio".


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

I posted something on the last page.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14277435*
> *TwoCables*
> 
> If going for low clocks and Offset Vcore, - (negative) Offset is a must. The VID in itself is usually too high for the 4GHz - 4.5GHz range. Especially when LLC is at Ultra High. I guess you know about negative Offset?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, on later than 1606 bios (1704 and 1850) C3/C6 can/will often cause Idle BSOD's when overclocking and Offset Vcore is used.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14277603*
> *TwoCables*
> 
> I posted something on the last page.


I saw it, but I don't know what you're saying.









(I have a disability I don't talk about very much)


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277579*
> I'm not not referring to "Turbo Ratio".


Ya i know, Turbo mode is enabled as well. Why is the damn CPU voltage fluctuating so much though?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277616*
> Ya i know, Turbo mode is enabled as well. Why is the damn CPU voltage fluctuating so much though?


I don't know. I'm trying to figure that out with you. I mean, if you copied my settings perfectly without doing anything differently, if EIST is fully enabled, if C1E is enabled, if both the C-states are enabled, and if Turbo Mode is enabled, then I don't know yet.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277607*
> I saw it, but I don't know what you're saying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I have a disability I don't talk about very much)


I'm saying you can type in Negative Offset Values. If you click the '+', you can change it to '-'/Negative. The Offset you type in then, is the Offset subtracted from the current VID.

If VID is 1.3411 on load and you type inn Offset '-' 0.020.. It will be about 1.3211v on load


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14277650*
> I'm saying you can type in Negative Offset Values. If you click the '+', you can change it to '-'/Negative. The Offset you type in then, is the Offset subtracted from the current VID.
> 
> If VID is 1.3411 on load and you type inn Offset '-' 0.020.. It will be about 1.3211v on load


I know, but how does this help me?


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277649*
> I don't know. I'm trying to figure that out with you. I mean, if you copied my settings perfectly without doing anything differently, if EIST is fully enabled, if C1E is enabled, if both the C-states are enabled, and if Turbo Mode is enabled, then I don't know yet.


Darn, I'll have to go back down to 4.3ghz then







I think I ran it with 1.36V which should be fine right?

Also, can I not just manually set the CPU Voltage? What should I set it to?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277670*
> I know, but how does this help me?


I was just making sure you knew about it.

Also keep in mind what I said about C3/C6 and Offset. They should be disabled when overclocking and using Offset to avoid idle BSOD's. This is especially true for bios 1704 and 1850. At least have this at the back of your mind


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277683*
> Darn, I'll have to go back down to 4.3ghz then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I ran it with 1.36V which should be fine right?
> 
> Also, can I not just manually set the CPU Voltage? What should I set it to?


I don't know if I want to give up just yet.

What setting do you have for CPU Spread Spectrum?

Also, bump the CPU Offset Voltage down to 0.025V.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14277690*
> I was just making sure you knew about it.
> 
> Also keep in mind what I said about C3/C6 and Offset. They should be disabled when overclocking and using Offset to avoid idle BSOD's. This is especially true for bios 1704 and 1850. At least have this at the back of your mind


Yeah, but the settings I gave him are for 4.8 GHz.


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277734*
> I don't know if I want to give up just yet.
> 
> What setting do you have for CPU Spread Spectrum?
> 
> Also, bump the CPU Offset Voltage down to 0.025V.
> 
> Yeah, but the settings I gave him are for 4.8 GHz.


Spectrum is enabled. Why is my Cpu-z all of a sudden going back and forth from 4.8ghz to 1.6ghz since switching the C settings to enable from auto?

I'll try lowering the offset voltage.

Ok done, but why does it go back to auto everytime I go back in after I save it and why is the VRM mode 300 again down from 350 that I saved it at?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277773*
> Spectrum is enabled. Why is my Cpu-z all of a sudden going back and forth from 4.8ghz to 1.6ghz since switching the C settings to enable from auto?
> 
> I'll try lowering the offset voltage.


That's supposed to happen (it's actually a good thing with Sandy Bridge).

This is significantly different from overclocking something like a socket 775 chip. It's actually way easier, believe it or not.


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277779*
> That's supposed to happen (it's actually a good thing with Sandy Bridge).
> 
> This is significantly different from overclocking something like a socket 775 chip. It's actually way easier, believe it or not.


Ok, it wasn't doing that before so find that odd.

Ok done, but why does it go back to auto everytime I go back in after I save it and why is the VRM mode 300 again down from 350 that I saved it at?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277817*
> Ok, it wasn't doing that before so find that odd.
> 
> Ok done, but why does it go back to auto everytime I go back in after I save it and why is the VRM mode 300 again down from 350 that I saved it at?


I don't know, but it's starting to feel like it doesn't like those settings for some reason. Maybe they're not acceptable values or something. I don't know yet.


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277831*
> I don't know, but it's starting to feel like it doesn't like those settings for some reason. Maybe they're not acceptable values or something. I don't know yet.


I can't get an accurate read on the voltage with cpuz now..its all over the place..from 1.15V to 1.5V+ ....


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277838*
> I can't get an accurate read on the voltage with cpuz now..its all over the place..from 1.15V to 1.5V+ ....


It is supposed to dynamically adjust based on the load that is on the CPU.

Let's try a lower Offset of 0.010V and see if it still goes over 1.5V. If the voltage is still fluctuating to exactly the same values low and high, then we may need to start using Ai Suite II for monitoring (but maybe not tweaking...).


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277849*
> It is supposed to dynamically adjust based on the load that is on the CPU.
> 
> Let's try a lower Offset of 0.010V and see if it still goes over 1.5V. If the voltage is still fluctuating to exactly the same values low and high, then we may need to start using Ai Suite II for monitoring (but maybe not tweaking...).


Ok. What about the voltage in the bios being around 1.42V for the CPU, does that matter at all or I guess cpuz is more acurate since its running in windows?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277876*
> Ok. What about the voltage in the bios being around 1.42V for the CPU, does that matter at all or I guess cpuz is more acurate since its running in windows?


omg, I just had an idea. I don't know if this will work, but this is what I did right before I switched from Manual voltage to Offset (I don't know why I did it; I just felt like it, so I did it):

Switch to EZ Mode in the UEFI
Click Normal Mode (the one that sets the CPU and memory back to 100% stock)
F10 out
Go back into the UEFI
Go back into Ai Tweaker and enter my settings verbatim, making sure to set everything else we talked about too
F10 out
Go back in the UEFI to check the voltage
If it's better, then I think we just found a bug as well as a workaround!


----------



## Kinslayer

And again it went over 1.5V. Also my Dram in bios is showing 1.665V & CPU Pll Voltage is 1.796V which is way too high no?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14277919*
> And again it went over 1.5V. Also my Dram in bios is showing 1.665V & CPU Pll Voltage is 1.796V which is way too high no?


Let's just do those steps above first and see if all of these things remain true. If not, then we might have discovered a bug as well as a workaround.


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14277935*
> Let's just do those steps above first and see if all of these things remain true. If not, then we might have discovered a bug as well as a workaround.


Did what you said but at least now its staying at 350 for that one setting but everything else is the same. CPU Voltage in Bios has been around 1.432V now for the last few tests. Its going over 1.5V in cpuz again as well. The only setting I had to change was the offset voltage, everything else remaind the same btw.


----------



## TwoCables

Ay, yi, yi. I hope I get some help soon. hehe I'm sorry. I just feel like I'm running out of ideas.

So I suppose for now we should change CPU Voltage back to Manual Mode, and then try 1.370 to see if that results in 1.368V like I think you had before - especially now that everything else is set for 4.8GHz.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14273571*
> 
> They load a little faster, but they're still taking a long time to load. So maybe it's time to start using ImageShack or something.


Will consider that.
Quote:


> I confess that I forgot all about that.
> 
> It sounds to me like maybe the motherboard might need to be replaced because after all, you found the EPS12V cable melted onto the connector.


I'm also thinking that it really could be the MB is damaged to much.
but I don't want to shoot empty powder as I don't have much money left








Either way what board you suggest me?


----------



## Kinslayer

Ok no worriest. I'll give that a shot







Do I still leave all the settings you told me as is? like the 350, enabling everything you told me?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14278070*
> Will consider that.
> 
> I'm also thinking that it really could be the MB is damaged to much.
> but I don't want to shoot empty powder as I don't have much money left
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either way what board you suggest me?


The P8P67 EVO of course.









Nah, but seriously: even after this experience, I would still like to see you get another P8P67 board, but perhaps the Pro this time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14278076*
> Ok no worriest. I'll give that a shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I still leave all the settings you told me as is? like the 350, enabling everything you told me?


I would. It'll be 4.8 GHz.







That would be like me using 4.7 GHz.


----------



## Kinslayer

I would. It'll be 4.8 GHz.







That would be like me using 4.7 GHz.[/QUOTE]

Bah..not sure whats going on with the bios but everytime I save it as 1.37V it goes back to auto after saving it. When I switch to EZ mode it still shows 1.432V. I go back and its showing the same thing. I save it as 1.37V and I don't see any difference now at all cpuz voltage is still all over the place and its going over 1.5V


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14278105*
> The P8P67 EVO of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, but seriously: even after this experience, I would still like to see you get another P8P67 board, but perhaps the Pro this time.


I'm thinking the same Evo or Pro or even the Deluxe again








Actually there are so many boards to choose from that it's confusing.

Well nothing is forever sooner or later something would have happened as this is OCing and that's risk you need to take.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14278213*
> I'm thinking the same Evo or Pro or even the Deluxe again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually there are so many boards to choose from that it's confusing.
> 
> Well nothing is forever sooner or later something would have happened as this is OCing and that's risk you need to take.


I'm chose the EVO because it has the look of the Deluxe (extra heatsink) without the price, the unnecessary 16+2 phase design (I'm only using air cooling), and the unnecessary 8-layer PCB (again, only air cooling here hehehe).


----------



## Kinslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinslayer;14278163*
> I would. It'll be 4.8 GHz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be like me using 4.7 GHz.


Bah..not sure whats going on with the bios but everytime I save it as 1.37V it goes back to auto after saving it. When I switch to EZ mode it still shows 1.432V. I go back and its showing the same thing. I save it as 1.37V and I don't see any difference now at all cpuz voltage is still all over the place and its going over 1.5V[/QUOTE]

I am going to bed so going back to 4.3ghz for now. If you can think of something else lmk since nothing is working ;(


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14277435*
> also, on later than 1606 bios (1704 and 1850) c3/c6 can/will often cause idle bsod's when overclocking and offset vcore is used.


I believe i found another way to stop the idle bsod without disabling c3, c6, or using manual voltage. I changed my llc from ultra high to high, and set the offset to 0.095(0.090 seems to bsod). Ive been using this for the last two days, and i havent got an idle bsod yet. Im not sure if this oc is stable, but it ran crysis 2 dx11 maxed for 12h no problem.

This post has been mistakenly edited, so a chunk of it is missing:doh:


----------



## TwoCables

Don't get me wrong, nawon72; I'd love to replace my monitor with something much better since those much-better options exist now (they didn't when I bought the 2253BW). Unfortunately, I will have to spend a few months saving up for one now that I've spent a grand total of $1,051.28 on this after ordering the GTX 580.


----------



## slimex

Hi Everyone,

I built a new rig last week, based on an ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe motherboard, which I am very satisfied with. I am doing an CPU overclock to 4600 Mhz turbo clock (all 4 cores) via multiplier 46. System runs prime stable for perhaps unlimited time, tested for about 10 hours in a row.

I would like to enter your owners club, too. So I can exchange knowledge about overclocking this very very nice board.

Greetings


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14279289*
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I built a new rig last week, based on an ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe motherboard, which I am very satisfied with. I am doing an CPU overclock to 4600 Mhz turbo clock (all 4 cores) via multiplier 46. System runs prime stable for perhaps unlimited time, tested for about 10 hours in a row.
> 
> I would like to enter your owners club, too. So I can exchange knowledge about overclocking this very very nice board.
> 
> Greetings


More MHz, please! hehehe


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14279303*
> More MHz, please! hehehe


Hehe
The system is very very silent, even under max. cpu load. Vcore is about 1,35-1,37V and if I would clock higher, I would need more and so there would be more heat. With my 2 bequiet Silentwings USC Fans at 1500 I am barely able to keep temperature down at about 70°C with this values. So I really don't want to sacrifice silence. Even if i would, I had to replace the fans to get more airflow through the radiator. They are blowing fresh cold air from outside into the case.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14279369*
> Hehe
> The system is very very silent, even under max. cpu load. Vcore is about 1,35-1,37V and if I would clock higher, I would need more and so there would be more heat. With my 2 bequiet Silentwings USC Fans at 1500 I am barely able to keep temperature down at about 70°C with this values. So I really don't want to sacrifice silence. Even if i would, I had to replace the fans to get more airflow through the radiator. They are blowing fresh cold air from outside into the case.


With the i7-2600K, you should be able to achieve 4.8GHz with that voltage. Or, have you already tested it and found that it's not that great of an overclocker?


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14279385*
> With the i7-2600K, you should be able to achieve 4.8GHz with that voltage. Or, have you already tested it and found that it's not that great of an overclocker?


I configured voltage in offset mode, cause I thought, It could shorten the lifetime of my CPU when I run "high" values like 1,36V all the time. I only tried to set my multiplier up with offset mode on. This resulted in higher voltages and much more heat, which I cannot handle using this fans. The system runs somewhat stable at multiplier 48, but I did not test longer than 30 minutes using Prime95 FFT 8 threads, cause temperatures were 75-80°C all the time.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14279608*
> I configured voltage in offset mode, cause I thought, It could shorten the lifetime of my CPU when I run "high" values like 1,36V all the time. I only tried to set my multiplier up with offset mode on. This resulted in higher voltages and much more heat, which I cannot handle using this fans. The system runs somewhat stable at multiplier 48, but I did not test longer than 30 minutes using Prime95 FFT 8 threads, cause temperatures were 75-80°C all the time.


Oh. Then use a lower + Offset like 0.025V, 0.030V, or 0.035V.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14279614*
> Oh. Then use a lower + Offset like 0.025V, 0.030V, or 0.035V.


What other BIOS Settings do you use ? I mostly really don't know, what is needed or what is useful to set. Are there other options, which lower my CPU temperature. No problem if this is too much work to look it all up, but it would be nice to know.


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kinslayer*


Bah..not sure whats going on with the bios but everytime I save it as 1.37V it goes back to auto after saving it. When I switch to EZ mode it still shows 1.432V. I go back and its showing the same thing. I save it as 1.37V and I don't see any difference now at all cpuz voltage is still all over the place and its going over 1.5V

I am going to bed so going back to 4.3ghz for now. If you can think of something else lmk since nothing is working ;(


Been away from the boards for a few days so catching up with everything... So if i'm repeating something please say. Also I'm just mentioning this because i was caught out and in no mean to say 'duh u try dis!!!?' but when you enter the manual volts do you actually hit enter?

One reason it may not be sticking is that your entering the value and then just exiting without hitting enter on the value. Volts will only fluctuate that high if its on Auto.. I overclocked my processor with the multiplier and left everything on Auto to see how much the processor and board thought it needed to run that speed and it was riding to 1.48v


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


Been away from the boards for a few days so catching up with everything... So if i'm repeating something please say. Also I'm just mentioning this because i was caught out and in no mean to say 'duh u try dis!!!?' but when you enter the manual volts do you actually hit enter?

One reason it may not be sticking is that your entering the value and then just exiting without hitting enter on the value. Volts will only fluctuate that high if its on Auto.. I overclocked my processor with the multiplier and left everything on Auto to see how much the processor and board thought it needed to run that speed and it was riding to 1.48v


this. sorry i dont have the patience to read everything lol. but usually if the value is not saving, make sure you always hit the enter button. otherwise the value wont stick.


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


I configured voltage in offset mode, cause I thought, It could shorten the lifetime of my CPU when I run "high" values like 1,36V all the time. I only tried to set my multiplier up with offset mode on. This resulted in higher voltages and much more heat, which I cannot handle using this fans. The system runs somewhat stable at multiplier 48, but I did not test longer than 30 minutes using Prime95 FFT 8 threads, cause temperatures were 75-80Â°C all the time.


What volts were the tests running upto to get those sort of temps?

From everything I've been reading on 1.4v is the number to keep bellow for 24/7 use as long as the temps arent too high (bellow 72C if i remember correctly)

The only thing I would ask (since this is something i've had to check for my own temps with the help of everyone else here) is..

What is your ambient temp? Your cooling may be performing well if its hot where you are and just may mean you need to downclock during summer.

Is the PC out in the open for fresh air to passthrough?

If its cool and out in the open i would maybe check to see if you've got too much thermal paste or too little as i would have thought your CPU cooler should be able to cope with those volts. One place to checkout for comparable temps is on the SandyBridge stable club and see what coolers ppl have at what volts.


----------



## plumbroke318

Bit of an update to me joining, here a few pics of my system.


----------



## eternal7trance

I tried to use my bios today and it doesn't seem to let me change or select anything, like it did before. Now when I click on the settings, pieces of the menu seem to disappear but not change.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


Hi Everyone,

I built a new rig last week, based on an ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe motherboard, which I am very satisfied with. I am doing an CPU overclock to 4600 Mhz turbo clock (all 4 cores) via multiplier 46. System runs prime stable for perhaps unlimited time, tested for about 10 hours in a row.

I would like to enter your owners club, too. So I can exchange knowledge about overclocking this very very nice board.

Greetings


Welcome







Added you to the Owners list









Quote:



Originally Posted by *plumbroke318*


Bit of an update to me joining, here a few pics of my system.


Added a link to your pictures in the owners list, behind your OCN Name. Thanks for your pictures


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


What volts were the tests running upto to get those sort of temps?

From everything I've been reading on 1.4v is the number to keep bellow for 24/7 use as long as the temps arent too high (bellow 72C if i remember correctly)

The only thing I would ask (since this is something i've had to check for my own temps with the help of everyone else here) is..

What is your ambient temp? Your cooling may be performing well if its hot where you are and just may mean you need to downclock during summer.

Is the PC out in the open for fresh air to passthrough?

If its cool and out in the open i would maybe check to see if you've got too much thermal paste or too little as i would have thought your CPU cooler should be able to cope with those volts. One place to checkout for comparable temps is on the SandyBridge stable club and see what coolers ppl have at what volts.


Hello Durden,

Now I finally am at home and can post some real values, not the cloudy rememberings of the day before yesterday







.

I just started an in place large fft test in prime95 using 8 threads. Now my CPU Cooler fans are at maximum rpm (1500) and the cpu temp is fluctuation between 68Â°C and 69Â°C. The automatic vcore is at 1,344V and sometimes goes up to 1,352 for very short periods of time. The motherboard temp is at constant 33Â°C. The values are from ASUS Ai Suite II. Core Temp shows core temperatures fluctuating between 65Â°C and 71Â°C.

My CPU cooler fans ar blowing air from the outside to the inside of the case and I am not using the Corsair 2500rpm stock fans. Using them I had much better cooling potential of course and it was no problem to run this values with cpu temp staying under 62Â°C with the fans running at 2000rpm or so.

I am running the present configuration prime stable, tested for about 4 hours with Nvidia demo endless city running at the same time. Case Temperatures went up to 45Â°C then and CPU temp sometimes reached 72Â°C, cause both 580s were under constant load (Afterburner shows values over 95% for the load for each card all the time). Room temperature was 24Â°C, a very high value for my means, doesn't get any hotter normally. I think if I would raise the multiplier further, I would have to use fans with more airflow, which are louder.

Prime95 is a synthetic benchmark. During normal use like playing games or writing documents, surfing the internet or watching videos or movies, I never get this high CPU load. So I hope, I will not have to clock down when the room temperature rises a few Â°C.

After testing I played Crysis 2 for another 4 hours, my cpu temperature went down to values lower than 60Â°C and the PC was again perfectly stable.

Without the graphics cards under load, the pc is very silent, despite the cpu is under full load. I would not like to raise noise if possible.

In my case I got these fans:

front: 230mm 700rpm, running at 400rpm
side: Cooler Master Megaflow 200mm 700rpm, running at 400rpm
top: 2x Cooler Master Megaflow 200mm 700rpm, running at 400rpm
graphics card air duct: Enermax 120mm 1400rpm, running at 850rpm
all these fans are connected to a Scythe Kaze Server fan controller and spin up to full rpm, as soon as the graphics cards are under load. Therefore at the moment they are at the low rpm state.

Without having any comparison yet, I would say, this is enough airflow and normal case temps.

The test runs for 47 mins now, the temps and values are still the same. Now I will start the nvidia demo endless city and post the temps and values in an hour or so.

turrican9, THX for adding me


----------



## slimex

turrican9, could you please post the html string for the signature, so that I can integrate properly into mine. THX


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


Hello Durden,

Now I finally am at home and can post some real values, not the cloudy rememberings of the day before yesterday







.

I just started an in place large fft test in prime95 using 8 threads. Now my CPU Cooler fans are at maximum rpm (1500) and the cpu temp is fluctuation between 68Â°C and 69Â°C. The automatic vcore is at 1,344V and sometimes goes up to 1,352 for very short periods of time. The motherboard temp is at constant 33Â°C. The values are from ASUS Ai Suite II. Core Temp shows core temperatures fluctuating between 65Â°C and 71Â°C.

My CPU cooler fans ar blowing air from the outside to the inside of the case and I am not using the Corsair 2500rpm stock fans. Using them I had much better cooling potential of course and it was no problem to run this values with cpu temp staying under 62Â°C with the fans running at 2000rpm or so.

I am running the present configuration prime stable, tested for about 4 hours with Nvidia demo endless city running at the same time. Case Temperatures went up to 45Â°C then and CPU temp sometimes reached 72Â°C, cause both 580s were under constant load (Afterburner shows values over 95% for the load for each card all the time). Room temperature was 24Â°C, a very high value for my means, doesn't get any hotter normally. I think if I would raise the multiplier further, I would have to use fans with more airflow, which are louder.

Prime95 is a synthetic benchmark. During normal use like playing games or writing documents, surfing the internet or watching videos or movies, I never get this high CPU load. So I hope, I will not have to clock down when the room temperature rises a few Â°C.

After testing I played Crysis 2 for another 4 hours, my cpu temperature went down to values lower than 60Â°C and the PC was again perfectly stable.

Without the graphics cards under load, the pc is very silent, despite the cpu is under full load. I would not like to raise noise if possible.

In my case I got these fans:

front: 230mm 700rpm, running at 400rpm
side: Cooler Master Megaflow 200mm 700rpm, running at 400rpm
top: 2x Cooler Master Megaflow 200mm 700rpm, running at 400rpm
graphics card air duct: Enermax 120mm 1400rpm, running at 850rpm
all these fans are connected to a Scythe Kaze Server fan controller and spin up to full rpm, as soon as the graphics cards are under load. Therefore at the moment they are at the low rpm state.

Without having any comparison yet, I would say, this is enough airflow and normal case temps.

The test runs for 47 mins now, the temps and values are still the same. Now I will start the nvidia demo endless city and post the temps and values in an hour or so.

turrican9, THX for adding me










I would say when overclocking the Chip i would avoide running stress tests on the graphics cards aswell. (if anyone else thinks this is wrong advice please do say...) The reason i say this is because you'll need to make sure the CPU is stable first before doing any other clocks. Its why most guides state even putting Ram to auto or the lowest setting. Once you know your safe that the CPU is stable then stress the graphics cards as they should never (unless your editing big videos) be under that type of stress.

Also I've been doing some reading and most people have said that blend tests are all thats needed. Though when i started i was doing small FFTs as this would result in quicker BSODs

I'm away now but hope you can get a stable overclock







will catch up soon!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


turrican9, could you please post the html string for the signature, so that I can integrate properly into mine. THX










It is posted in the first post of this Club, but here you go







Oh, and if you want it in center, just edit and select center









And btw, please vote in this thread if you like it. There have been some trolls earlier on, voting down all threads on the OCN...

Code:


Code:


[CODE]
[B][I][THREAD=1012874]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>[/THREAD][/I][/B]

[/CODE]


----------



## Shane1244

Going to find a replacment for my Vanilla P8P67 so that I can SLI.

I'm heading over to Canada Computers.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14280023*
> What other BIOS Settings do you use ? I mostly really don't know, what is needed or what is useful to set. Are there other options, which lower my CPU temperature. No problem if this is too much work to look it all up, but it would be nice to know.


Here are all of my settings. I can't take screenshots because I always end up with giant black horizontal bars that block most of each screenshot.

These are my *not yet fully tested* settings for 4.8GHz:

*Ai Tweaker:*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*

Ai Tweaker > CPU Power Management:*

I have everything at the default settings. Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology is enabled, Turbo Mode is enabled, CPU C1E is enabled, CPU C3 Report is enabled, and CPU C6 Report is enabled.

Back to the main Ai Tweaker area:

*DIGI+ VRM*

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.035V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

I previously had the CPU Offset Voltage at 0.030V, but it only lasted 7 hours and 16 minutes of Prime95's Blend test. So I increased it to 0.035V with the plan to test sometime soon.

I keep all these settings saved in a Microsoft Word document.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14280457*
> Been away from the boards for a few days so catching up with everything... So if i'm repeating something please say. Also I'm just mentioning this because i was caught out and in no mean to say 'duh u try dis!!!?' but when you enter the manual volts do you actually hit enter?
> 
> One reason it may not be sticking is that your entering the value and then just exiting without hitting enter on the value. Volts will only fluctuate that high if its on Auto.. I overclocked my processor with the multiplier and left everything on Auto to see how much the processor and board thought it needed to run that speed and it was riding to 1.48v


This!

I learned the hard way that pressing Enter after *typing* a value is required! This applies to every last part of the UEFI where you can type values in, including when you want to save a profile.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14280554*
> What volts were the tests running upto to get those sort of temps?
> 
> From everything I've been reading on 1.4v is the number to keep bellow for 24/7 use as long as the temps arent too high (bellow 72C if i remember correctly)


ASUS' Senior Technical Marketing Specialist (JJ) recommends staying under 1.425V for more of a permanent setting. Although, 1.525V is basically the maximum.

Regarding temps: 72.6°C is just the Thermal Specification. It's measured on the topside at the "geometric center" which is basically the exact same spot where we apply that first bit of thermal interface material. So the maximum safe core temperature is actually 98°C which is the Tj. Max of these CPUs. This is the temperature where the CPU would (and should) either throttle itself down or turn itself off.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14281728*
> Hello Durden,
> 
> Now I finally am at home and can post some real values, not the cloudy rememberings of the day before yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I just started an in place large fft test in prime95 using 8 threads. Now my CPU Cooler fans are at maximum rpm (1500) and the cpu temp is fluctuation between 68°C and 69°C. The automatic vcore is at 1,344V and sometimes goes up to 1,352 for very short periods of time. The motherboard temp is at constant 33°C. The values are from ASUS Ai Suite II. Core Temp shows core temperatures fluctuating between 65°C and 71°C.
> 
> My CPU cooler fans ar blowing air from the outside to the inside of the case and I am not using the Corsair 2500rpm stock fans. Using them I had much better cooling potential of course and it was no problem to run this values with cpu temp staying under 62°C with the fans running at 2000rpm or so.
> 
> I am running the present configuration prime stable, tested for about 4 hours with Nvidia demo endless city running at the same time. Case Temperatures went up to 45°C then and CPU temp sometimes reached 72°C, cause both 580s were under constant load (Afterburner shows values over 95% for the load for each card all the time). Room temperature was 24°C, a very high value for my means, doesn't get any hotter normally. I think if I would raise the multiplier further, I would have to use fans with more airflow, which are louder.
> 
> Prime95 is a synthetic benchmark. During normal use like playing games or writing documents, surfing the internet or watching videos or movies, I never get this high CPU load. So I hope, I will not have to clock down when the room temperature rises a few °C.
> 
> After testing I played Crysis 2 for another 4 hours, my cpu temperature went down to values lower than 60°C and the PC was again perfectly stable.
> 
> Without the graphics cards under load, the pc is very silent, despite the cpu is under full load. I would not like to raise noise if possible.
> 
> In my case I got these fans:
> 
> front: 230mm 700rpm, running at 400rpm
> side: Cooler Master Megaflow 200mm 700rpm, running at 400rpm
> top: 2x Cooler Master Megaflow 200mm 700rpm, running at 400rpm
> graphics card air duct: Enermax 120mm 1400rpm, running at 850rpm
> all these fans are connected to a Scythe Kaze Server fan controller and spin up to full rpm, as soon as the graphics cards are under load. Therefore at the moment they are at the low rpm state.
> 
> Without having any comparison yet, I would say, this is enough airflow and normal case temps.
> 
> The test runs for 47 mins now, the temps and values are still the same. Now I will start the nvidia demo endless city and post the temps and values in an hour or so.
> 
> turrican9, THX for adding me


It's actually not a good idea to make the system do other things while a CPU or CPU/memory stress test is running. This is because anything else that runs forces the CPU to share CPU cycles between everything. I've seen people say that when their stress test is only lasting a few hours, they can get it to last longer by doing other things at the same time.

So when you run Prime95, it's best to just leave the computer alone. Actually, I also recommend disabling anything that might steal CPU cycles while you're away, such as the screensaver, Windows Update, the Desktop Slide Show, etc.

Finally: it seems to be the general consensus that 12 hours of Prime95's Blend test is the absolute best stress test for Sandy Bridge.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14282125*
> I would say when overclocking the Chip i would avoide running stress tests on the graphics cards aswell. (if anyone else thinks this is wrong advice please do say...) The reason i say this is because you'll need to make sure the CPU is stable first before doing any other clocks. Its why most guides state even putting Ram to auto or the lowest setting. Once you know your safe that the CPU is stable then stress the graphics cards as they should never (unless your editing big videos) be under that type of stress.
> 
> Also I've been doing some reading and most people have said that blend tests are all thats needed. Though when i started i was doing small FFTs as this would result in quicker BSODs
> 
> I'm away now but hope you can get a stable overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will catch up soon!


I tested this graphics card values with bios at optimized defaults and cpu on standard clock for several hours before. There is no overclock on those, but they are undervolted from 1,0V (which I think could be under reference voltage from nvidia) to 0,963V to avoid unnecessary heat emission. With stress testing both cpu and graphics card I wanted to simulate the worst ever possible situation, I stress tested the CPU alone for 1 hour or so alone before, which is not enough I agree.

The current setup was finally not stable. Yesterday evening I changed my RAM voltage from 1,65V to 1,6V. Did not remember, that I wanted to stress test this first. So after 1 hour of Prime 1 worker had an error.
Then I switched it back to 1,65V to have my last stable configuration again and started some stress testing again to determine temperatures.

As I am too lazy to write down all these numbers, here is a screenshot:



On the screenshot, the test ran for about 48 minutes, from there till now it ran another 35 minutes without errors or changing temps etc.. The open program windows should give an overwiew of config and especially temperatures. I think it could run stable if I let it run, had tested with this config for 4 h and more before.

The system runs perfectly this way, am unsure if it makes any sense to overclock at all at the moment in terms of performance. But it is sort of fun to get more out of the hardware and see stable results.

@twocables:
thx for pasting all your config values, this will help if I change my plans and try to raise multiplier next time.

Heres my config:

Ai Tweaker > CPU Power Management:
These Options I left on Default

Ai Tweaker:
Ai Overclock Tuner: X.M.P
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 46
Internal PLL Voltage: Auto
Memory Frequency: DDR3-2133MHz
EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
DRAM Timing Control: 9-11-9-28-1T

DIGI+ VRM
Load-Line Calibration: Auto
VRM Frequency: Auto
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Auto
CPU Current Capability: 100%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: Auto
DRAM Voltage: 1.6500
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Auto

As you can easily see, there are a lot of automatic options, which shows, how little I have tried. At the moment I am a little bit afraid of raising temps or noise level, so I will leave ist be, if it runs stable. To determine, if it is, I will soon test without graphics load using Prime Blend. Thx for this suggestion @Durden & TwoCables

Will be away for today now, too. Perhaps I will make this blend test later.


----------



## CBZ323

Hi everyone!

I have a P8Z68-V and I was wondering if the third PCIe x16_3 would be ok for my second card on SLi at x8/x8 so they can be far from each other and stay cool or if its gonna be too slow to perform at x8 speed.

There is something here about it in the note section at the bottom but im not sure if that disqualifies the last pcie x16 for a sli in x8 speeds

Thanks in advance!


----------



## TwoCables

I know that this is a huge post, but please please please bear with me.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14283214*
> I tested this graphics card values with bios at optimized defaults and cpu on standard clock for several hours before. There is no overclock on those, but they are undervolted from 1,0V (which I think could be under reference voltage from nvidia) to 0,963V to avoid unnecessary heat emission. With stress testing both cpu and graphics card I wanted to simulate the worst ever possible situation, I stress tested the CPU alone for 1 hour or so alone before, which is not enough I agree.
> 
> The current setup was finally not stable. Yesterday evening I changed my RAM voltage from 1,65V to 1,6V. Did not remember, that I wanted to stress test this first. So after 1 hour of Prime 1 worker had an error.
> Then I switched it back to 1,65V to have my last stable configuration again and started some stress testing again to determine temperatures.


When I was picking parts for my Sandy Bridge upgrade, I was told to specifically *and only* look at 1.5V rated memory (or perhaps even lower than 1.5V). I was basically told that 1.65V is not good for Sandy Bridge because it has an Integrated Memory Controller. I don't know whether or not this means that 1.65V results in higher core temps than 1.5V, but I can only assume so (I'm not willing to test it at the moment because I don't want to disturb my system quite yet).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14283214*
> As I am too lazy to write down all these numbers, here is a screenshot:
> 
> 
> 
> On the screenshot, the test ran for about 48 minutes, from there till now it ran another 35 minutes without errors or changing temps etc.. The open program windows should give an overwiew of config and especially temperatures. I think it could run stable if I let it run, had tested with this config for 4 h and more before.


After looking at your settings below, I am very curious: what does CPU-Z's *Memory* tab say? I mean, is your memory running at its correct clocks and timings?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14283214*
> The system runs perfectly this way, am unsure if it makes any sense to overclock at all at the moment in terms of performance. But it is sort of fun to get more out of the hardware and see stable results.


It makes no sense for me to overclock, but damn: 4.8GHz with air cooling? Woo-hoo!!!!! hehehehe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14283214*
> @twocables:
> thx for pasting all your config values, this will help if I change my plans and try to raise multiplier next time.
> 
> Heres my config:
> 
> Ai Tweaker:
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
> Memory Frequency: DDR3-1866MHz
> EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
> DRAM Timing Control: 9-11-9-28-1T
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled


Hey, we have the same settings!

haha j/k









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14283214*
> Ai Tweaker > CPU Power Management:
> These Options I left on Default
> 
> Ai Tweaker:
> Ai Overclock Tuner: X.M.P
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 46
> Internal PLL Voltage: Auto
> Memory Frequency: DDR3-2133MHz
> EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
> DRAM Timing Control: 9-11-9-28-1T
> 
> DIGI+ VRM
> Load-Line Calibration: Auto
> VRM Frequency: Auto
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Auto
> CPU Current Capability: 100%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: Auto
> DRAM Voltage: 1.6500
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Auto
> 
> As you can easily see, there are a lot of automatic options, which shows, how little I have tried. At the moment I am a little bit afraid of raising temps or noise level, so I will leave ist be, if it runs stable. To determine, if it is, I will soon test without graphics load using Prime Blend. Thx for this suggestion @Durden & TwoCables
> 
> Will be away for today now, too. Perhaps I will make this blend test later.


For overclocking, always always always use "Manual" for the "Ai Overclock Tuner" setting.

Additionally, always use the following settings in DIGI+VRM:

Load-Line Calibration: *High, Ultra High, or Extreme.* Ultra High is best.
VRM Frequency: *Manual*
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350*
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: *Extreme*
CPU Current Capability: *140%* (I know it turns red, but we happen to know what we are doing, so ignore it)
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: *Always manually set this. I tried Auto once, and I came extremely close to killing my CPU.* Start with 0.005V and slowly work your way up in increments of 0.005V
DRAM Voltage: 1.6500 *- we may need to find you some good 1.5V memory*
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: *You can raise this to values between 1.000V and 2.000V to help use a lower core voltage*. It's recommended to stay under 1.200V.
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: *Enabled*

Using these settings should be a _tremendous_ help.


----------



## The Viper

TwoCables thats some good stuff your posting









So whats the deal with this "Internal PLL Voltage" option, Im assuming from what Ive been reading you need it enabled to get the high OCs?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Viper;14285433*
> TwoCables thats some good stuff your posting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So whats the deal with this "Internal PLL Voltage" option, Im assuming from what Ive been reading you need it enabled to get the high OCs?


Yeah, I don't know!







JJ (the Senior Technical Marketing Specialist at ASUS) says that we can use it to help obtain bigger overclocks. Although, it's probably for exceeding 5GHz. I don't know.









I still have a lot of testing to do, so I think I'll get 4.8GHz stable with it enabled and then test it again with it disabled.


----------



## Shane1244

I bought the P8P67 Pro to replace my P8P67 Vanilla..

Hopefully I can sell it!


----------



## stone2

Hello all,
First time poster and just want to say what a great club.
Had my P8Z68-V Pro for a week now and have been reading heaps about overclocking. Up to pg85 on this thread so far.
Just wondering why when I set Memory Freq to 1600Mhz and boot to windows my cpu sits at 3800Mhz. It doesn't down clock when idle. Is this normal?
Sorry for being such a noob.

Waiting for a Hyper 212 Plus before I attempt any real OC.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stone2;14289394*
> Hello all,
> First time poster and just want to say what a great club.
> Had my P8Z68-V Pro for a week now and have been reading heaps about overclocking. Up to pg85 on this thread so far.
> Just wondering why when I set Memory Freq to 1600Mhz and boot to windows my cpu sits at 3800Mhz. It doesn't down clock when idle. Is this normal?
> Sorry for being such a noob.
> 
> Waiting for a Hyper 212 Plus before I attempt any real OC.


Welcome to OCN (Overclock.net lol







)

Aaaaaanyways... Could you go HERE and fill your system spec with as much info as possible (take a peek at my system spec)

What changes did you make in the bios apart from changing the RAM? Intel speedstep and C1E allow the CPU to downclock when you not utilising it, make sure both are enabled, it should be under cpu configuration.

Hope that helps


----------



## TFL Replica

I'd like to join the club.
I'm currently looking for a quiet aftermarket cooler that fits these boards without clearance issues. DeepCool Gamer storm does NOT clear the VRM heatsinks.


----------



## ocman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14289664*
> I'd like to join the club.
> I'm currently looking for a quiet aftermarket cooler that fits these boards without clearance issues. DeepCool Gamer storm does NOT clear the VRM heatsinks.


Hi TFL Replica, try look into Corsair Hydro Series to solve the clearance issue.


----------



## stone2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14289576*
> Welcome to OCN (Overclock.net lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Aaaaaanyways... Could you go HERE and fill your system spec with as much info as possible (take a peek at my system spec)
> 
> What changes did you make in the bios apart from changing the RAM? Intel speedstep and C1E allow the CPU to downclock when you not utilising it, make sure both are enabled, it should be under cpu configuration.
> 
> Hope that helps


Ah..ha.. C1E was set on auto...thanks so much.
Have done a bit of overclocking in the past but with this new UEFI there are soooo many options.
Thanks very much for your help


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocman;14289729*
> Hi TFL Replica, try look into Corsair Hydro Series to solve the clearance issue.


It's tempting and I respect the Corsair Hydro series but I still get the feeling that the right air cooler can outperform them with less hassle and cost and similar acoustics. I could be wrong.


----------



## hertz9753

I ordered one of these from Newegg yesterday.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131705R&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14283499*
> For overclocking, always always always use "Manual" for the "Ai Overclock Tuner" setting.
> 
> Additionally, always use the following settings in DIGI+VRM:
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: *High, Ultra High, or Extreme.* Ultra High is best.
> VRM Frequency: *Manual*
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350*
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: *Extreme*
> CPU Current Capability: *140%* (I know it turns red, but we happen to know what we are doing, so ignore it)
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: *Always manually set this. I tried Auto once, and I came extremely close to killing my CPU.* Start with 0.005V and slowly work your way up in increments of 0.005V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.6500 *- we may need to find you some good 1.5V memory*
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: *You can raise this to values between 1.000V and 2.000V to help use a lower core voltage*. It's recommended to stay under 1.200V.
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: *Enabled*
> 
> Using these settings should be a _tremendous_ help.


Thx again for all these tips. I got my bios configured according to your suggested values now, for VCCIO Voltage i set 1,1V, for Offset Voltage 0,010.
My CPU Voltage in AI Suite now is no more 1,344, but 1,368. Despite this the CPU seems to stay around 66-70°C during stress test like before, even a little bit lower. Whats apparent is, that the fluctuation is higher.

Also I set my RAM to 1866Mhz at 1,5V with CL9-10-9-24-1T, which I tested stable before.

When I woke up this morning, I looked at the Temperatures on my Iphone BT remote app and saw, that mainboard temperature was 123°C. I think this was an error, because in jumped to it from 33°C in one measuring time interval in AI Suite Recorder. I put my fingers into the case and say, this is not possible, must have been an error. Also, this did not change, even after stopping prime. Speedfan also reported this temp. After rebooting i was back at 33°C.

Now I will get to work, while stress testing with prime95 blend, 8 threads. My girlfriend will look if temperatures are ok and if not switch testing off in the meantime and report to me







. Hoping to get stable results and even potential to rise multiplier again (now its 46, like before).

And yes, my CPUinfo shows the right timings in the memory tabs every time I look at them.

Test now runs stable for 20 min, hope will stay stable.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stone2;14289822*
> Ah..ha.. C1E was set on auto...thanks so much.
> Have done a bit of overclocking in the past but with this new UEFI there are soooo many options.
> Thanks very much for your help


No worries happy to help


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


also, on later than 1606 bios (1704 and 1850) c3/c6 can/will often cause idle bsod's when overclocking and offset vcore is used.


I believe i found another way to stop the idle bsod without disabling c3, c6, or using manual voltage. I changed my llc from ultra high to high, and set the offset to 0.095(0.090 seems to bsod). Ive been using this for the last two days, and i havent got an idle bsod yet. Im not sure if this oc is stable, but it ran crysis 2 dx11 maxed for 12h no problem.


*Update:* I left my computer on over night(10h) without any programs running, and i didn't BSOD. So for me, this is another possible option for stopping the idle BSOD. turrican9, if your could test this out yourself and confirm this method works for you, then i think we have a winner. And if anyone else can help me confirm that it works, it would be appreciated.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


With the i7-2600K, you should be able to achieve 4.8GHz with that voltage. Or, have you already tested it and found that it's not that great of an overclocker?


Acording to ASUS(JJ), 4.8GHz will generally require 1.415V or 1.42 with LLC ultra high, and the settings they mentioned. It seems to be about right for me, as i need about 1.41V(untested) for 4.8GHz and similar settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Yeah, I don't know!







JJ (the Senior Technical Marketing Specialist at ASUS) says that we can use it to help obtain bigger overclocks. Although, it's probably for exceeding 5GHz. I don't know.









I still have a lot of testing to do, so I think I'll get 4.8GHz stable with it enabled and then test it again with it disabled.


Its needed if you can't boot into the OS with your OC(freeze or BSOD). Generally its required at 4.4GHz-4.7GHz according to ASUS(JJ). For me, its needed at ~4.65GHz. An easy way to get an idea of when you need it is to use all the settings you would when your at a high OC(4.8-5.0GHz), then disable Internal PLL Overvoltage and run extreme auto tuning in AI Suite.

PS - I failed hard and edited this post instead of posting a new one


----------



## xtnod

Seems good for now... I am gonna let it run overnight and see.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtnod*


Seems good for now... I am gonna let it run overnight and see.










looking good bud, make sure you post that run on my thread!!









check it out sometime, Sandy Stable club


----------



## xtnod

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


looking good bud, make sure you post that run on my thread!!









check it out sometime, Sandy Stable club










soon as I get it stable I'll post it.


----------



## samuel002

didn't post to this thread for a long time.... well i came across to this issue i just don't know if its the hardrive/ssd or what.. when i open something for example HoN/Music folder i get a freeze time about 5-7 seconds and i see my hardrive LED stop flashing but i still see the LED anyone experience it?


----------



## slimex

My Prime Blend test did not succeed. My girlfriend just called to tell me, that the computer shows "boot device not present" or something. An Error i had before, reselecting the ssd in the bios solved it. But my config is definitely not stable. An hour ago everything went well but there must have been a reboot. perhaps ram timings are too fast. Unfortunately she was in a hurry, so that I could not instruct her setting up other settings and to start a new test. Will solve this when I get home tonight.


----------



## Durden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


My Prime Blend test did not succeed. My girlfriend just called to tell me, that the computer shows "boot device not present" or something. An Error i had before, reselecting the ssd in the bios solved it. But my config is definitely not stable. An hour ago everything went well but there must have been a reboot. perhaps ram timings are too fast. Unfortunately she was in a hurry, so that I could not instruct her setting up other settings and to start a new test. Will solve this when I get home tonight.


Sorry to hear slimex, you'll get there soon enough









It may be worth a shot at just leaving your RAM setting on auto just to confirm/test the CPu overclock is stable first. If your jugglig both CPU and RAM settings at the same time it's hard to figure out which setting got it stable.

Also what LLC setting did you use? With mine on ultra high I got minimal fluctuation (although I do use manual and not offset for vcore settings)


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


didn't post to this thread for a long time.... well i came across to this issue i just don't know if its the hardrive/ssd or what.. when i open something for example HoN/Music folder i get a freeze time about 5-7 seconds and i see my hardrive LED stop flashing but i still see the LED anyone experience it?


Hi,

I had similar issues, which are propably not solved (as described in my last post), but I did have trouble every hour before trying this solution:
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/fo...her-SSD-s-also

Another Post, that I have found:
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/fo...Vertex-3-crash

I will try firmware update, too.

Good luck with this.


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durden*


Sorry to hear slimex, you'll get there soon enough










It may be worth a shot at just leaving your RAM setting on auto just to confirm/test the CPu overclock is stable first. If your jugglig both CPU and RAM settings at the same time it's hard to figure out which setting got it stable.

Also what LLC setting did you use? With mine on ultra high I got minimal fluctuation (although I do use manual and not offset for vcore settings)


i think it is ultra high. Its possible that my instability is caused by the ssd problem just posted about, cause the ssd is not found after reboot again.


----------



## TFL Replica

Looks like the Thermalright Archon lists the P8P67 Deluxe as compatible. I think this will be the aftermarket cooler for me. I have my side fan mounted from the outside so even the tallest CPU coolers will have no clearance issues.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TFL Replica*


I'd like to join the club. 
I'm currently looking for a quiet aftermarket cooler that fits these boards without clearance issues. DeepCool Gamer storm does NOT clear the VRM heatsinks.


Welcome to the Club







*Added*


----------



## turrican9

I have some plans... I will try lapping on my Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 (The one with 6 heatpipes) because of uneven base...

Then I will try and use the CM 212 + mounting system and fan on it, and mount it in my 2500K system. I think this will cut a good deal of the Load temps...

Will try this method.

  
 



  



 

According to this picture, the CM Hyper 212+ needs 1900rpm to match the TRUE 120 at 1140rpm, and even then, the TRUE is 4c lower. So I can Imagine the TRUE with the CM Hyper 212+ fan at 1900rpm must kick ass

Edit: I just noticed in the picture below that it is the regular non plus version of CM Hyper 212. It is not as good as the pluss variant. However, I still think my TRUE will cut a great deal of my load temps.










Edit 2: Found a better comparison. Shows the CM Hyper 212 + against the TRUE, at the same rpm also. And with a hot overclocked core i7 920 at almost 4GHz. Perfect comparison. Just what I was looking for. And as I suspected, the TRUE 120 will cut of about 10c of the load temps, VS the CM Hyper 212 Plus, when they both run a fan with high rpm.


----------



## xtnod

8 hours... hopefully it don't fail when I am at work lol.


----------



## Alex132

The TRUE120 is a tough old bird


----------



## nawon72

Hey turrican9, did you check out the top part of my post yet?

*Update:* The OC is still going strong. No idle BSODs after another 12h.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Hey turrican9, did you check out the top part of my post yet?


Yes. Nice find. I will look into it


----------



## turrican9

Me lapping my TRUE 120. What a slavejob. And what an uneven heatsink base!


----------



## Alex132

I got a 3'c drop from lapping my TRUE


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alex132*


I got a 3'c drop from lapping my TRUE


My base was terrible!

Also, I'm expecting 10c + load temp drops when replacing my CM 212+ with TRUE, and using the CM 212+ fan. Especially on 1.45v Vcore +.

Just hope it goes well using the CM 212+ mounting bracket. No reason why it should not work. A lapped TRUE 120 with a fast and good fan, like the one for CM Hyper 212+ (Almost 2000 rpm at max) should rival a NH-D14 stock.


----------



## Alex132

TRUE120 SHINES with 2 low cfm fans. got 2x800RPM fans on and it keeps my i5 below 65'c while folding.
Push these fans to max RPM for better temps at higher volts/mhz


----------



## turrican9

I also wonder how Sandybridge scale with lower temps. If it works like GPU's, in the sence they will overclock higher on certain temps, using same Vcore.


----------



## Alex132

Yeah it is true IIRC, even slightly lower will provide better stability, but not overclocks.
Well that's what happens to me


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alex132*


Yeah it is true IIRC, even slightly lower will provide better stability, but not overclocks.
Well that's what happens to me


At 4.8GHz I have tried all the way up to about 1.48v Vcore. Not 12 hours + Blend stable. However, temps go beyond 83c for hottest Core.

So I'm guessing TRUE will cut off 10c, at least, and this will bring stability at 4.8GHz and probably in the 1.45 - 1.46v Vcore range. We'll see. Looking forward to this.


----------



## slimex

Hey guys,

Does anyone know why my Turbo Mode automatically switches off after short periods of time around 72°C ? Is this normal ? T thought, 72 was not quite low, but ok.

In the temp diagram on the screenshot you can see that turbo switched of 4 times for about 30 sec each time. After 3 times I removed the fan filter, so temperatures got down by 2°C, but they went up afterwards, following motherboard temperature and it happened again. Is this already a dangerous temp area ?

I raised VCCIO Voltage from 1,1V to 1,15V and my RAM Voltage is at 1,65V. Perhaps this has something to do with it.


----------



## xtnod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14295049*
> At 4.8GHz I have tried all the way up to about 1.48v Vcore. Not 12 hours + Blend stable. However, temps go beyond 83c for hottest Core.
> 
> So I'm guessing TRUE will cut off 10c, at least, and this will bring stability at 4.8GHz and probably in the 1.45 - 1.46v Vcore range. We'll see. Looking forward to this.


Time for some heavy-duty water-cooling!!!


----------



## CBZ323

Hi, I have the P8Z68-V and I'm loving it.

I would love to join the club!

Btw, anyone know how to clear CMOS? i made a mistake and didnt know how to do it. My old X58 board had a couple of buttons for this but I cant find it in this board...


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CBZ323;14295736*
> Hi, I have the P8Z68-V and I'm loving it.
> 
> I would love to join the club!
> 
> Btw, anyone know how to clear CMOS? i made a mistake and didnt know how to do it. My old X58 board had a couple of buttons for this but I cant find it in this board...


WELCOME TO THE CLUB









To clear CMOS I do the following:

Unplug the power cord
Hold the power button to drain any excess power still left in the rig.
Take the CMOS battery out
wait a few mintues (5minutes is enough)
Pop battery back in
power cord and switch it on.

Hope that helps


----------



## CBZ323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14295765*
> WELCOME TO THE CLUB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To clear CMOS I do the following:
> 
> Unplug the power cord
> Hold the power button to drain any excess power still left in the rig.
> Take the CMOS battery out
> wait a few mintues (5minutes is enough)
> Pop battery back in
> power cord and switch it on.
> 
> Hope that helps


Ok, so there is no button. I read this here but i did it earlier today and didnt work.

The problem was that i was setting manual voltages last night and my gf rushed me out of the apartment and the last voltage i set, instead of 1.19 was 1.9. the rest you can imagine... Microcenter gave me a new 2500k no questions asked, thank god.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CBZ323;14295861*
> Ok, so there is no button. I read this here but i did it earlier today and didnt work.
> 
> The problem was that i was setting manual voltages last night and my gf rushed me out of the apartment and the last voltage i set, instead of 1.19 was 1.9. the rest you can imagine... Microcenter gave me a new 2500k no questions asked, thank god.


sometimes it works with the jumper sometimes it doesn't, I didn't really bother with that, I find the CMOS battery methos the easiest way.








1.9v!!!!

Glad you got a replacement, everything working okay now?


----------



## microman

My mobo wont let me boot over 1.55v anyone know how I get past that?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;14295983*
> My mobo wont let me boot over 1.55v anyone know how I get past that?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Have you tried enabling PLL over voltage?

*EDIT:* What multi are you trying?


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14295999*
> Have you tried enabling PLL over voltage?
> 
> *EDIT:* What multi are you trying?


Say I try 54 with 1.56v it will just say cpu over voltage and wont even try and boot

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## turrican9

Wow!!! So far I'm getting totally sick differences between my lapped TRUE 120, using CM Hyper 212+ fan and mounting bracket (Got a really firm preassure, since the TRUE base is thicker VS CM Hyper 212 + 's base.

I've already tried Blend at 1.5v + Vcore and 5GHz, and temps stayed way under 80C ! In these higher speeds I'm seeing more than 10c difference at load. The Hyper 212+ could not cope with 1.45v + Vcore, TRUE has no problems with it. Glad I did this. And I'm sure the lapping also has done a big difference, since it's original base was very uneven.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;14296174*
> Say I try 54 with 1.56v it will just say cpu over voltage and wont even try and boot
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


disable the CPU voltage monitoring in the BIOS, set it to ignore and you should be able to go as high as the mobo allows










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14296301*
> Wow!!! So far I'm getting totally sick differences between my lapped TRUE 120, using CM Hyper 212+ fan and mounting bracket (Got a really firm preassure, since the TRUE base is thicker VS CM Hyper 212 + 's base.
> 
> I've already tried Blend at 1.5v + Vcore and 5GHz, and temps stayed way under 80C ! In these higher speeds I'm seeing more than 10c difference at load. The Hyper 212+ could not cope with 1.45v + Vcore, TRUE has no problems with it. Glad I did this. And I'm sure the lapping also has done a big difference, since it's original base was very uneven.


Wow that's pretty cool, any pics to show the differences? Also pics of the TRUE would be awesome.

Nice one bud









OT: Im thinking of selling my chip, it does 57x multi, will get an up-to-date appraisal and see who much I can get for it.


----------



## Alex132

It's supposed to be concave to match the supposed CPU's convex surface.
My PII was flat, so that didn't work. i5 looks a little convex to me.


----------



## CBZ323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14295915*
> sometimes it works with the jumper sometimes it doesn't, I didn't really bother with that, I find the CMOS battery methos the easiest way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.9v!!!!
> 
> Glad you got a replacement, everything working okay now?


yeah, just letting that Arctic Silver 5 kick in and lower the temps a little.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CBZ323;14296479*
> yeah, just letting that Arctic Silver 5 kick in and lower the temps a little.


lol 200hours curing. You should think about getting a better TIM, should help drop temps a little. I would recommend ICDiamond7 or the SHin Etsu X23-7782D.

Good luck and let us know how you get on with overclocking


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CBZ323;14295736*
> Hi, I have the P8Z68-V and I'm loving it.
> 
> I would love to join the club!
> 
> Btw, anyone know how to clear CMOS? i made a mistake and didnt know how to do it. My old X58 board had a couple of buttons for this but I cant find it in this board...


Welcome to the Owners Club







*Added you*


----------



## CBZ323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14296493*
> lol 200hours curing. You should think about getting a better TIM, should help drop temps a little. I would recommend ICDiamond7 or the SHin Etsu X23-7782D.
> 
> Good luck and let us know how you get on with overclocking


lol yes 200hrs but in a couple of days you can already tell the difference.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14296355*
> Wow that's pretty cool, any pics to show the differences? Also pics of the TRUE would be awesome.
> 
> Nice one bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OT: Im thinking of selling my chip, it does 57x multi, will get an up-to-date appraisal and see who much I can get for it.


I'm gonna do lot's of testing, and probably post some new results in The Sandy Stable Club. Maybe I'll take a picture later on. But not much to see. Just a regular TRUE 120 with the CM hyper 212 + fan and mounting bracket.

Right now I have some wierd problems with that terrible Cyborg keyboard.. Can't seem to get it to work, after I switched USB ports.


----------



## Eaglake

Im really going crazy about this.
So I'm Folding and yea no matter if I have OCed my CPU to 4.5 GHz or at stock 3.8GHz or slightly lower speed I get the same TPF 43 min. (sometimes when I downclock from 4.5 to stock it gets a slightly better tpf)
So now I'm leaning towards that maybe something is wrong with CPU or maybe ram is causing this.








Ohhh this is first time I can't figure whats wrong.








And I need my PC for science project which is about Overclocking


----------



## turrican9

Doing a Prime 95 Blend Custom rush test now... 6000MB and one minute per FFT. This 2500K is sooo Vcore hungry... It sits at 1.464v - 1.488v Vcore under load at 4.8GHz now. The good news is that my TRUE 120 with the CM Hyper 212+ fan on it, seems to cope with this load... until now the hottest temps seen is - 70c, 75c, 76c and 73c for the cores.

Had this been on the CM Hyper 212+ I would have seen temps closer to 85c now.

Update: Stopped the test after almost 50 minutes. Since it was set at 1 minute per FFT, it rushed through as many fft's as it would have on the standard preset (15 minutes per FFT).

Now trying mem at stock 1600 9-9-9-24-2t-1.5v instead of my usual 1600 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v to see if I can lower Vcore a bit....


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14297739*
> Doing a Prime 95 Blend Custom rush test now... 6000MB and one minute per FFT. This 2500K is sooo Vcore hungry... It sits at 1.464v - 1.488v Vcore under load at 4.8GHz now. The good news is that my TRUE 120 with the CM Hyper 212+ fan on it, seems to cope with this load... until now the hottest temps seen is - 70c, 75c, 76c and 73c for the cores.
> 
> Had this been on the CM Hyper 212+ I would have seen temps closer to 85c now.
> 
> Update: Stopped the test after almost 50 minutes. Since it was set at 1 minute per FFT, it rushed through as many fft's as it would have on the standard preset (15 minutes per FFT).
> 
> Now trying mem at stock 1600 9-9-9-24-2t-1.5v instead of my usual 1600 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v to see if I can lower Vcore a bit....


So does the custom setting mean you can cut down on the length of time needed to prime?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14299001*
> So does the custom setting mean you can cut down on the length of time needed to prime?


Rush testing is a good way to find out if your overclock will last in the usual 15 minutes per FFT for 12 hours +.

When using 1 minute per FFT you will get through all FFT's much faster and get the Vcore fluctuations. Often Prime 95 will fail on certain FFT's. This way is a fast way to get a good indication before you do a overnight usual 15 minute per FFT.

If using 1 minute per FFT, running it for 30 - 60 minutes should do.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14299059*
> Rush testing is a good way to find out if your overclock will last in the usual 15 minutes per FFT for 12 hours +.
> 
> When using 1 minute per FFT you will get through all FFT's much faster and get the Vcore fluctuations. Often Prime 95 will fail on certain FFT's. This way is a fast way to get a good indication before you do a overnight usual 15 minute per FFT.
> 
> If using 1 minute per FFT, running it for 30 - 60 minutes should do.


Thank you again turrican9.. Always a beacon of knowledge!

My last clock run (4.6ghz 1.37) is 4hours blended so far. Need to setup an overnight job soon to be certain!


----------



## xtnod

Almost 20 hours... I think I've found my stable 4.8 settings!! I am pretty happy with the temps as well. Going to be running Linx after it hits 20 hours to double sure it.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Doing a Prime 95 Blend Custom rush test now... 6000MB and one minute per FFT. This 2500K is sooo Vcore hungry... It sits at 1.464v - 1.488v Vcore under load at 4.8GHz now. The good news is that my TRUE 120 with the CM Hyper 212+ fan on it, seems to cope with this load... until now the hottest temps seen is - 70c, 75c, 76c and 73c for the cores.


Ambient temp?


----------



## munaim1

*xtnod*

Be sure to sure post a prime blend screenshot in my thread, the sandy stable club









EDIT: Just add your name with notepad and post that screenie over there, would be happy for you to join the club


----------



## xtnod

Just posted







Now time to try for 5Ghz... will be fun lol


----------



## TwoCables

I was previously wrong: I never had "CPU C3 Report" and "CPU C6 Report" enabled! They were set to Auto!

So I enabled them and guess what! I got a BSOD within 5 minutes. lol So I set them both back to Auto and it's all good now. I know I should just set them both to Disabled, but they've been set to Auto this entire time and I haven't had any BSODs.

Here are my current settings, still not fully tested:

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T 
*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled


*Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V

*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto
My previous Offset Voltage was +0.035V, but my system only lasted 6 hours and 17 minutes in Prime95's Blend test. However, my full load voltage wasn't all that different with 0.035V as compared to using +0.030V. Using +0.040V raises my full load voltage so high that it even hits 1.400V on occasion.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


Thx again for all these tips. I got my bios configured according to your suggested values now, for VCCIO Voltage i set 1,1V, for Offset Voltage 0,010.
My CPU Voltage in AI Suite now is no more 1,344, but 1,368. Despite this the CPU seems to stay around 66-70Â°C during stress test like before, even a little bit lower. Whats apparent is, that the fluctuation is higher.


Can you copy all of my settings above except for the Memory Frequency and DRAM Timing Control? Some of these new settings I posted might be different from what I recommended before, such as the C3 and C6 states.









For Memory Frequency and DRAM Timing Control, use what is printed on the stickers on your memory sticks. Also be sure to use the voltage that is printed on there as well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


Also I set my RAM to 1866Mhz at 1,5V with CL9-10-9-24-1T, which I tested stable before.


But your sig rig says that you have 2133MHz memory. Use your memory's clock speed, voltage and timings as printed on their stickers.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


When I woke up this morning, I looked at the Temperatures on my Iphone BT remote app and saw, that mainboard temperature was 123Â°C. I think this was an error, because in jumped to it from 33Â°C in one measuring time interval in AI Suite Recorder. I put my fingers into the case and say, this is not possible, must have been an error. Also, this did not change, even after stopping prime. Speedfan also reported this temp. After rebooting i was back at 33Â°C.

Now I will get to work, while stress testing with prime95 blend, 8 threads. My girlfriend will look if temperatures are ok and if not switch testing off in the meantime and report to me







. Hoping to get stable results and even potential to rise multiplier again (now its 46, like before).

And yes, my CPUinfo shows the right timings in the memory tabs every time I look at them.

Test now runs stable for 20 min, hope will stay stable.


We'll get there!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


*Update:* I left my computer on over night(10h) without any programs running, and i didn't BSOD. So for me, this is another possible option for stopping the idle BSOD. turrican9, if your could test this out yourself and confirm this method works for you, then i think we have a winner. And if anyone else can help me confirm that it works, it would be appreciated.

Acording to ASUS(JJ), 4.8GHz will generally require 1.415V or 1.42 with LLC ultra high, and the settings they mentioned. It seems to be about right for me, as i need about 1.41V(untested) for 4.8GHz and similar settings.


I have the i5-2500K, and I have a rock-solid stable 4.7GHz overclock using about 1.352V - 1.368V. So overclocking the i7-2600K to 4.8GHz should require about the same vCore because it's basically the same overclock (1.0 GHz above the stock Turbo multiplier).

I am also currently trying 4.8GHz, and so far it is doing extremely well with about 1.384V - 1.392V - 1.400V (that's the range I see while it's fluctuating).

So 1.415V - 1.425V seems extremely high to me for overclocking the i7-2600K to only 4.8 GHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Its needed if you can't boot into the OS with your OC(freeze or BSOD). Generally its required at 4.4GHz-4.7GHz according to ASUS(JJ). For me, its needed at ~4.65GHz. An easy way to get an idea of when you need it is to use all the settings you would when your at a high OC(4.8-5.0GHz), then disable Internal PLL Overvoltage and run extreme auto tuning in AI Suite.

PS - I failed hard and edited this post instead of posting a new one










Wow. 0.095V would make my full load voltage become 1.45V. I would never be comfortable with that for 24/7 use even though it is only using that much when it needs it thanks to being dynamically adjusted based on CPU load.

I'd rather just leave C3 and C6 disabled!


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


My previous Offset Voltage was +0.035V, but my system only lasted 6 hours and 17 minutes in Prime95's Blend test. However, my full load voltage wasn't all that different with 0.035V as compared to using +0.030V. Using +0.040V raises my full load voltage so high that it even hits 1.400V on occasion.










My offset voltage setting was at 0.02V, getting load voltages up to 1.376V.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Can you copy all of my settings above except for the Memory Frequency and DRAM Timing Control? Some of these new settings I posted might be different from what I recommended before, such as the C3 and C6 states.










I will, as soon as I have time to.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


For Memory Frequency and DRAM Timing Control, use what is printed on the stickers on your memory sticks. Also be sure to use the voltage that is printed on there as well.


Got the settings back to the X.M.P. Values which are:
2133Mhz CL9-11-9-28-1N at 1,65V
But I will use printed values instead, which are:
2133Mhz CL9-11-9-28-2N at 1,65V

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


But your sig rig says that you have 2133MHz memory. Use your memory's clock speed, voltage and timings as printed on their stickers.


Hehe, the sig rig. I think I will tidy up this mess once I have a really stable setting. Changed the data in there very frequently this week, so that there might have been false values.

I ordered 2 new fans for my Corsair H80 Cooler:
Enermax Vegas Trio 120mm UCTVT12P,
which should arrive today.

I hope having more airflow will help getting temps down, which got up to 73Â°C under load. I even had turbo mode switched off automatically while Prime blend testing for some reason. After 20 seconds it was switched back on again. Did not understand why, yet. An earlier post shows the screenshot with the thermal curve showing 4 low temp phases due to automatic downclocking.

Till the fans aren't in, I will no more do any testing.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I have the i5-2500K, and I have a rock-solid stable 4.7GHz overclock using about 1.352V - 1.368V. So overclocking the i7-2600K to 4.8GHz should require about the same vCore because it's basically the same overclock (1.0 GHz above the stock Turbo multiplier).

I am also currently trying 4.8GHz, and so far it is doing extremely well with about 1.384V - 1.392V - 1.400V (that's the range I see while it's fluctuating).

So 1.415V - 1.425V seems extremely high to me for overclocking the i7-2600K to only 4.8 GHz.


I'm almost certain that's not how it works. The i5 and i7 are the same chip except for hyper threading(and 100MHz), so they would require the same approximate Vcore at a certain clock speed.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Wow. 0.095V would make my full load voltage become 1.45V. I would never be comfortable with that for 24/7 use even though it is only using that much when it needs it thanks to being dynamically adjusted based on CPU load.

I'd rather just leave C3 and C6 disabled!


It wouldn't make your load voltage 1.45 since you are compensating for the higher offset Vcore with lower LLC. Once you set the correct offset, you will have the same load voltage. But i need other people to help me confirm this. It works for me, but i need to see if it causes my Vcore to be higher than with lower offset and higher LLC.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


My offset voltage setting was at 0.02V, getting load voltages up to 1.376V.

I will, as soon as I have time to.

Got the settings back to the X.M.P. Values which are:
2133Mhz CL9-11-9-28-1N at 1,65V
But I will use printed values instead, which are:
2133Mhz CL9-11-9-28-2N at 1,65V

Hehe, the sig rig. I think I will tidy up this mess once I have a really stable setting. Changed the data in there very frequently this week, so that there might have been false values.

I ordered 2 new fans for my Corsair H80 Cooler:
Enermax Vegas Trio 120mm UCTVT12P,
which should arrive today.

I hope having more airflow will help getting temps down, which got up to 73Â°C under load. I even had turbo mode switched off automatically while Prime blend testing for some reason. After 20 seconds it was switched back on again. Did not understand why, yet. An earlier post shows the screenshot with the thermal curve showing 4 low temp phases due to automatic downclocking.

Till the fans aren't in, I will no more do any testing.


I didn't see a screenshot on my end (I know that you're referring to an earlier post).

Can you post just the URL instead of using IMG tags? That might enable me to see it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


I'm almost certain that's not how it works. The i5 and i7 are the same chip except for hyper threading(and 100MHz), so they would require the same approximate Vcore at a certain clock speed.


Well still: it looks to me like most people don't need more than 1.4V to reach 4.8 GHz (at least based on what I have seen so far here on OCN).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


It wouldn't make your load voltage 1.45 since you are compensating for the higher offset Vcore with lower LLC. Once you set the correct offset, you will have the same load voltage. But i need other people to help me confirm this. It works for me, but i need to see if it causes my Vcore to be higher than with lower offset and higher LLC.


I didn't test it; I only added it to what Core Temp says my VID is.

When I add 0.040V to what Core Temp says my VID is, I end up with 1.3961V. Under full load, I see a range of 1.384V to 1.392V, so Core Temp is accurately reading my VID. So since I know that Core Temp is accurately reading my VID, I know that 0.095V added to it would result in me seeing about 1.45V under full load.

This is with my current settings as posted a couple posts above.


----------



## Thalys

Hi there,

Have you noticed that the AI Suite II was removed for the P8Z68 Deluxe ?

Technical error or compatibility issue with the chipset or with this motherboard ?

Cheers


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14303945*
> I didn't see a screenshot on my end (I know that you're referring to an earlier post).
> 
> Can you post just the URL instead of using IMG tags? That might enable me to see it.


You are welcome:

http://www.overclock.net/attachments/intel-motherboards/220827d1311267208-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-series-owners-turbo-mode-off-4-times.jpg

Thought this was visible through a thumbnail in the post.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14304133*
> You are welcome:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/attachments/intel-motherboards/220827d1311267208-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-series-owners-turbo-mode-off-4-times.jpg
> 
> Thought this was visible through a thumbnail in the post.


Oops. I accidentally confused you with someone else. I mean I wanted to find the screenshot so I used Ctrl+F to search for *their* name and not yours. So of course, I didn't find any screenshots. lol

I mean, I see the post now and I see the screenshot.









Can you post all of your current Ai Tweaker settings? I can't speak from experience, but I have a feeling that you still have CPU Current Capability at either 100%, or somewhere under 140%. If it's not set to 140%, then set it to 140%.


----------



## mearnshaw

Hi, got my new system a few days ago with Asus P8Z68-V Pro and now up and running. Very happy so far with the board - looks the muts nuts!
Just getting back into overclocking and modding. Will start overclocking in the next few weeks... please can I join the club?!?!

Cheers,
M


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mearnshaw;14304445*
> Hi, got my new system a few days ago with Asus P8Z68-V Pro and now up and running. Very happy so far with the board - looks the muts nuts!
> Just getting back into overclocking and modding. Will start overclocking in the next few weeks... please can I join the club?!?!
> 
> Cheers,
> M


Hi there!
You've got a nice system, just looks like a gfx needs a upgrade and your rig will be a beast








Also Overclocking these new chips are so easy, thought they are so powerful


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14300672*
> Ambient temp?


They vary alot, about 21 - 24c..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mearnshaw;14304445*
> Hi, got my new system a few days ago with Asus P8Z68-V Pro and now up and running. Very happy so far with the board - looks the muts nuts!
> Just getting back into overclocking and modding. Will start overclocking in the next few weeks... please can I join the club?!?!
> 
> Cheers,
> M


Welcome *Added*


----------



## Durden

Code:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14299059*
> Rush testing is a good way to find out if your overclock will last in the usual 15 minutes per FFT for 12 hours +.
> 
> When using 1 minute per FFT you will get through all FFT's much faster and get the Vcore fluctuations. Often Prime 95 will fail on certain FFT's. This way is a fast way to get a good indication before you do a overnight usual 15 minute per FFT.
> 
> If using 1 minute per FFT, running it for 30 - 60 minutes should do.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14304166*
> Oops. I accidentally confused you with someone else. I mean I wanted to find the screenshot so I used Ctrl+F to search for *their* name and not yours. So of course, I didn't find any screenshots. lol
> 
> I mean, I see the post now and I see the screenshot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post all of your current Ai Tweaker settings? I can't speak from experience, but I have a feeling that you still have CPU Current Capability at either 100%, or somewhere under 140%. If it's not set to 140%, then set it to 140%.


This.. I had mine set to 100% and as soon as I set it to 140% my system was stable. (not that playing around with vcore wasn't necessary too!)


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14304840*
> 
> Code:


This.. I had mine set to 100% and as soon as I set it to 140% my system was stable. (not that playing around with vcore wasn't necessary too!)

It has not been unstable, as long as I tested (about 3 h yesterday evening). But Turbo Mode switched off automatically from time to time. Is this cause of vcore going too high, exceeding the configured current capability ? While my Offset Vcore was on auto, there were no such problems, but at this time I had 2 stronger fans mounted onto the cpu cooler's radiator and temps never exceeded 68°C, now they go up to 73°C or 74°C from time to time.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14305048*
> It has not been unstable, as long as I tested (about 3 h yesterday evening). But Turbo Mode switched off automatically from time to time. Is this cause of vcore going too high, exceeding the configured current capability ? While my Offset Vcore was on auto, there were no such problems, but at this time I had 2 stronger fans mounted onto the cpu cooler's radiator and temps never exceeded 68°C, now they go up to 73°C or 74°C from time to time.


What is your CPU Current Capability set to?

It needs to be set to 140%.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14305064*
> What is your CPU Current Capability set to?
> 
> It needs to be set to 140%.


It is set to 140%.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14305064*
> What is your CPU Current Capability set to?
> 
> It needs to be set to 140%.


I think mine was at 100% when I did my 12 hours + 4.7GHz Blend Custom 6000MB run, posted in the Sandy Stable Club.

I have started using 140% now, since I've seen several mention it helps. For me I cannot seem to notice any difference in my system. At least, not yet.

Update: I may have found something that make a difference for my Vcore hungry 2500K. Using Command Rate 2t instead of my usual 1t may seem to stress memcontroller on CPU less, causing it to get away with a little lower Vcore. All this testing takes so much time though. Also, there should be almost no performance difference between 1t and 2t. 1t is just a tiny bit faster in synthetic benchmarks


----------



## Alex132

Why does it go into red when you select 140%?
I have mine on 120%

EDIT: As in why is it "unsafe"


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alex132*


Why does it go into red when you select 140%?
I have mine on 120%

EDIT: As in why is it "unsafe"


Probably only because it'll allow your CPU to draw that much power. However, it is very unlikely that someone could actually overclock it to the insane point where it actually drew that much watts.

I finally give up on Blend stability at 4.8GHz +. I have tried everything. It will require closer to 1.5v Vcore. It's not worth it. I have a bad 2500K - End of story. I will just keep it at 4.5GHz and install my CM Hyper 212 + again. It's not worth all this hassle for a couple of hundred extra MHz.

Also, I'm so jealous of all those with better 2500K's than me, that I'll never speak to those people again. I will not even look at their posts anymore


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alex132*


Why does it go into red when you select 140%?
I have mine on 120%

EDIT: As in why is it "unsafe"


I'm not quite sure how to explain it, but 140% means you can basically set the voltage as high as you want and the board won't get in your way.

In other words: the value of 140% is not for people who are trying to do this without seeking any help.


----------



## Alex132

But I can set my voltage up to 1.55v with 120%?
Would putting it to 140% mean that I can get a higher stable multi boot?
My max is 51x


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Well still: it looks to me like most people don't need more than 1.4V to reach 4.8 GHz (at least based on what I have seen so far here on OCN).


Think about all the people who didn't post there results because their OC requires more volts, and they didn't want people to know(e-peen gets smaller). turrican9 is an exception...
Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I didn't test it; I only added it to what Core Temp says my VID is.

When I add 0.040V to what Core Temp says my VID is, I end up with 1.3961V. Under full load, I see a range of 1.384V to 1.392V, so Core Temp is accurately reading my VID. So since I know that Core Temp is accurately reading my VID, I know that 0.095V added to it would result in me seeing about 1.45V under full load.

This is with my current settings as posted a couple posts above.


I think you just need to try it to see what i mean. Set your LLC to high(instead of ultra high), then set the offset to 0.070+(for 4.8GHz). When you go into the OS, you will see that your Vcore is approximately the same.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


They vary alot, about 21 - 24c


Your new heatsink setup is amazing then. I would say it is comparable to mine, except noisier.


----------



## turrican9

Here is what I have found with regards to cooling and overclocking Sandybridge.

It's all about the luck of the draw. Some people can do 5GHz at 1.4v Vcore.. Others require 1.5v for 4.8GHz...

As for cooling, there is little point spending money on anything better or more expensive than a CM Hyper 212 +. Reason is this cooler will handle about 1.45v - 1.48v Vcore under load, and not go much over 80c when Blend (I don't count IBT/AVX). Also, at 1.4v Vcore it will stay below 75c. If you have a bad CPU like me, even good watercooling would not have helped me, since I had to use an insane Vcore to get to 5GHz anyway. And from what I've seen, those Corsair H50, H60, H70 and H80's are not any better VS good aircoolers.

The way I see it, the CM Hyper 212 + has the perfect performance/price ratio for Sandybridge right now. Coolers like the NH-D14 are just overkill and will not help further overclocking much, since it's all about luck of the draw with the CPU. My lapped TRUE 120 with the CM Hyper 212+ fan (Should be close to a NH-D14 stock) only helped me coping better with temps at those 1.47v - 1.5v Vcore range VS the CM Hyper 212 +. I did not get any better Blend stable overclock out of it. Since it turned out 4.8GHz will need closer to 1.49v + Vcore on my CPU.

4.7GHz in the 1.43 - 1.45v Vcore range is already tested 12 hours + Blend stable using my CM hyper 212+.

Using money on coolers like the NH-D14 is a waste of money for these CPU's, in my opinion.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14305440*
> Probably only because it'll allow your CPU to draw that much power. However, it is very unlikely that someone could actually overclock it to the insane point where it actually drew that much watts.
> 
> I finally give up on Blend stability at 4.8GHz +. I have tried everything. It will require closer to 1.5v Vcore. It's not worth it. I have a bad 2500K - End of story. I will just keep it at 4.5GHz and install my CM Hyper 212 + again. It's not worth all this hassle for a couple of hundred extra MHz.
> 
> Also, I'm so jealous of all those with better 2500K's than me, that I'll never speak to those people again. I will not even look at their posts anymore


I think I may be in you club with my 2500k too but going to still give it a shot just to see.. I mean why else have the build if I can't look to break it somehow


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14306194*
> I think I may be in you club with my 2500k too but going to still give it a shot just to see.. I mean why else have the build if I can't look to break it somehow


Most people seem to use 4.5GHz for 24/7 anyway. No matter how good CPU's they have







Also, you won't notice any difference going from 4.5GHz to 5GHz.

2500K, a cheap but good cooler like the CM Hyper 212+, 2x4GB 1600 9-9-9-24-1.5v and a mid-range motherboard like the P8P67 PRO is really the perfect balance between price/performance.

Spending money on 2600K, more expensive coolers, faster RAM and more expensive motherboards will really give nothing else than the e-peen factor


----------



## TFL Replica

The Hyper 212+ is roughly 4 times as loud as the NH-D14. It's a great value cooler but let's not get crazy here.


----------



## GeforceGTS

^^ Mhm

and personally, 75/80c in prime is way over my limit.

I like to keep my CPU around 60c


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14306584*
> The Hyper 212+ is roughly 4 times as loud as the NH-D14. It's a great value cooler but let's not get crazy here.


Only at full load on all cores. Like Blend







For regular use and gaming, when using Silent Fan profile the CM Hyper 212+ stays at a much lower rpm. So no difference in those regards.

I get to switch 2500K with a friend who does not want to overclock anyway. So hope his is better than mine. Wish me luck


----------



## TFL Replica

What if your friend's 2500k is worse? Will you switch again?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14306697*
> 
> I get to switch 2500K with a friend who does not want to overclock anyway. So hope his is better than mine. Wish me luck


Good luck








Aaaw I wish that I could change parts with my friends, but the most powerful system that my friends has is P4


----------



## PrimeBurn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14307214*
> Good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aaaw I wish that I could change parts with my friends, but the most powerful system that my friends has is P4


I feel your pain. It is depressing talking about computers and/or gaming with people whose only frame of reference is their laptop with integrated graphics.


----------



## turrican9

It turned out my friend has a 2600K







His P67 Sabertooth is not working right. I damaged both my USB sticks just by plugging them in his motherboard









I have his system here now. Will have to take out the motherboard. And will try his 2600K. And if it overclocks better than my 2500K, he agreed we could switch, and I pay him a little since it's a 2600K

There have just been a terror attack here in Norway. A bomb exploded in the political headquarterts in OSLO (Capital of Norway). I live far North in Norway so I'm far, far away from it. I even lost my internet a moment ago. Because of the Terror readyness here in Norway the goverment switched all resources to their use. I got internet connection back just a while ago.


----------



## iLLGT3

I get my 2nd P8P67 in today and I would like somebody to help me make sure all the settings and whatnot are correct in the BIOS. I don't want to have a repeat of the last time with the light show lol.

I won't be able to build it until tonight because I work from 2PM to 10:30 tonight so if someone can please help me, that would be great.

I just want to make sure all the BIOS settings are safe and won't cause any damage haha


----------



## Quatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14245544*
> I think that using Sleep or Hibernation every single day instead of shutting down is not good for Windows (even Windows 7) because I believe it needs to be restarted once a day to avoid any weird problems.


You believe wrong. I hibernate/resume every day often for 10+ days in a row without restarting, and everything still runs great. I generally don't restart until required by drivers or other updates.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14307395*
> It turned out my friend has a 2600K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His P67 Sabertooth is not working right. I damaged both my USB sticks just by plugging them in his motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have his system here now. Will have to take out the motherboard. And will try his 2600K. And if it overclocks better than my 2500K, he agreed we could switch, and I pay him a little since it's a 2600K
> 
> There have just been a terror attack here in Norway. A bomb exploded in the political headquarterts in OSLO (Capital of Norway). I live far North in Norway so I'm far, far away from it. I even lost my internet a moment ago. Because of the Terror readyness here in Norway the goverment switched all resources to their use. I got internet connection back just a while ago.


Good luck.. I hope it clocks well!!

I've given up tryin to clock tried 4.8Ghz and no matter what I did it wasn't working. I even downclocked to 4.5 because is it worth pushing 1.4v for 4.7Ghz lol


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;14305843*
> But I can set my voltage up to 1.55v with 120%?
> Would putting it to 140% mean that I can get a higher stable multi boot?
> My max is 51x


Using 140% means that if you use an insane voltage setting, then it will stick and that voltage will go through the CPU. Using 100% means that you can set it to that insane setting, but the board will never let the CPU use that much power.

At least that's my current understanding. It's like a limiter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14306161*
> Here is what I have found with regards to cooling and overclocking Sandybridge.
> 
> It's all about the luck of the draw. Some people can do 5GHz at 1.4v Vcore.. Others require 1.5v for 4.8GHz...
> 
> As for cooling, there is little point spending money on anything better or more expensive than a CM Hyper 212 +. Reason is this cooler will handle about 1.45v - 1.48v Vcore under load, and not go much over 80c when Blend (I don't count IBT/AVX). Also, at 1.4v Vcore it will stay below 75c. If you have a bad CPU like me, even good watercooling would not have helped me, since I had to use an insane Vcore to get to 5GHz anyway. And from what I've seen, those Corsair H50, H60, H70 and H80's are not any better VS good aircoolers.
> 
> The way I see it, the CM Hyper 212 + has the perfect performance/price ratio for Sandybridge right now. Coolers like the NH-D14 are just overkill and will not help further overclocking much, since it's all about luck of the draw with the CPU. My lapped TRUE 120 with the CM Hyper 212+ fan (Should be close to a NH-D14 stock) only helped me coping better with temps at those 1.47v - 1.5v Vcore range VS the CM Hyper 212 +. I did not get any better Blend stable overclock out of it. Since it turned out 4.8GHz will need closer to 1.49v + Vcore on my CPU.
> 
> 4.7GHz in the 1.43 - 1.45v Vcore range is already tested 12 hours + Blend stable using my CM hyper 212+.
> 
> Using money on coolers like the NH-D14 is a waste of money for these CPU's, in my opinion.


This.

I was advised to get something cheap at first. That way if I ended up with an awesome overclocker, then I could get better cooling to reach my CPUs full potential. In other words, if I ended up with a crappy overclocker, then at least I didn't waste my money on the best air cooler on the market.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quatrix;14308026*
> You believe wrong.


That's fascinating.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14303607*
> Here are my current settings, still not fully tested:
> 
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
> *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> *By All Cores:* 48
> *Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
> *Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
> *DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-28-1T
> *EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled
> 
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
> *Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
> *Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Phase Control:* Extreme
> *Duty Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 140%
> *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> *CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
> 
> *DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
> *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> *VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
> *CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
> *PCH Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
> *Active Processor Cores:* All
> *Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
> *Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
> *Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *CPU C1E:* Enabled
> *CPU C3 Report:* Auto
> *CPU C6 Report:* Auto
> My previous Offset Voltage was +0.035V, but my system only lasted 6 hours and 17 minutes in Prime95's Blend test. However, my full load voltage wasn't all that different with 0.035V as compared to using +0.030V. Using +0.040V raises my full load voltage so high that it even hits 1.400V on occasion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you copy all of my settings above except for the Memory Frequency and DRAM Timing Control? Some of these new settings I posted might be different from what I recommended before, such as the C3 and C6 states.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For Memory Frequency and DRAM Timing Control, use what is printed on the stickers on your memory sticks. Also be sure to use the voltage that is printed on there as well.
> 
> But your sig rig says that you have 2133MHz memory. Use your memory's clock speed, voltage and timings as printed on their stickers.


So, in the afternoon I set all the values that you have set in my bios. Exceptions are:

VCCIO Voltage: 1.5 V
Offset Voltage: 0.005 V

Even the multiplier I raised from 46 to 48.

Then I started Prime95 Blend again. I quickly recognized, that I had the same problems like before. The CPU will stay at 73-75 °C for some time, then turbo mode goes off and back on after 20-60 sec.
Cause my Enermax Vegas fans did not arrive today (hopefully tomorrow), I replaced the bequiet Silentwings USCs with the stock corsair 2500rpm fans.
Now the system is much louder at same temps, but I have pretty much cooling reserve left, as with them it is possible to hold 70°C with 65%, which equals about 1700 rpm.

I am testing for 1 hour now and did no more suffer an automatic downclock, must have been the very slow but constantly rising temperature situation before. CPU fans already turned with full rpm (1500, both connected to cha1 fan port using an y-adaptor).

My voltage is at 1.368 V under load, sometimes it goes up to 1.376V.

I do not know, if the new "silent" fans will handle this, i hope so.
Seems to be stable for the moment, but I will have to do a longer test overnight.


----------



## xtnod

I been reading but still haven't fully understand what the VCCIO is exactly. I've got my 2600k at 4.8 stable, but my vccio setting is on auto. Reading reviews and such they recommend it gets set manually.

So how and what should I do and know about setting the vccio?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14308608*
> 
> VCCIO Voltage: 1.5 V


I sure hope you mean 1.*1*5v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtnod;14308815*
> I been reading but still haven't fully understand what the VCCIO is exactly. I've got my 2600k at 4.8 stable, but my vccio setting is on auto. Reading reviews and such they recommend it gets set manually.
> 
> So how and what should I do and know about setting the vccio?


VCCIO:
Quote:


> VCCIO: more commonly known at QPI/VTT voltage, this is the VTT voltage. Formally known as Processor Power for I/O it is the voltage for the integrated memory controller as well as the PCI-E controller. While Intel's Maximum is 1.05 +/- 3% = 1.08v, you can go higher, much higher. I would recommend staying below 1.2v for 24/7 use, but depending on the quality of the IMC on your chip, I have seen 2133 MHz done on as little at 1.1v. I used 1.12v for overclocking my Dominator 1600 MHz to 1866 MHz, and it did it without any problems. Do realize that this voltage contributes heat as well to the whole thermal package.


[source[/URL]]


----------



## turrican9

This 2600K seems much more promising VS my 2500K when it comes to Vcore. Running Blend at 4.8GHz right now, HT on and Vcore in the 1.376v - 1.392v Vcore range. It is running much hotter VS my 2500K though. I've almost been upto 80c on hottest core.

Probably need to mount my TRUE again









Also, it actually gave error on one of the Cores when too little Vcore, instead of BSOD. My 2500K always BSOD's. 2600K also froze at one time, when too little Vcore. So other behaviour VS my 2500K.

I also suspect my 2500K was holding back my RAM overclocking. As mem controller is on die.

This sucker may go to 5GHz if I can cool it. We'll see what my TRUE 120 can do for this CPU.

Wow! Now I see why it is running much hotter VS my 2500K. The Wattage according to HWiNFO is much higher for this CPU, at the same Vcore! Been up to 113 Watts while blending now VS 90 Watts + on the 2500K! Must be HT doing this! Wow! I really need to install my TRUE again. It will handle much bigger loads VS CM Hyper 212+.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14308986*
> This 2600K seems much more promising VS my 2500K when it comes to Vcore. Running Blend at 4.8GHz right now, HT on and Vcore in the 1.376v - 1.392v Vcore range. It is running much hotter VS my 2500K though. I've almost been upto 80c on hottest core.
> 
> Probably need to mount my TRUE again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, it actually gave error on one of the Cores when too little Vcore, instead of BSOD. My 2500K always BSOD's. 2600K also froze at one time, when too little Vcore. So other behaviour VS my 2500K.
> 
> I also suspect my 2500K was holding back my RAM overclocking. As mem controller is on die.
> 
> This sucker may go to 5GHz if I can cool it. We'll see what my TRUE 120 can do for this CPU.
> 
> Wow! Now I see why it is running much hotter VS my 2500K. The Wattage according to HWiNFO is much higher for this CPU, at the same Vcore! Been up to 113 Watts while blending now VS 90 Watts + on the 2500K! Must be HT doing this! Wow! I really need to install my TRUE again. It will handle much bigger loads VS CM Hyper 212+.


wow good luck bud and let us know how far you can push it!!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14308608*
> So, in the afternoon I set all the values that you have set in my bios. Exceptions are:
> 
> VCCIO Voltage: 1.5 V
> Offset Voltage: 0.005 V
> 
> Even the multiplier I raised from 46 to 48.
> 
> Then I started Prime95 Blend again. I quickly recognized, that I had the same problems like before. The CPU will stay at 73-75 °C for some time, then turbo mode goes off and back on after 20-60 sec.
> Cause my Enermax Vegas fans did not arrive today (hopefully tomorrow), I replaced the bequiet Silentwings USCs with the stock corsair 2500rpm fans.
> Now the system is much louder at same temps, but I have pretty much cooling reserve left, as with them it is possible to hold 70°C with 65%, which equals about 1700 rpm.
> 
> I am testing for 1 hour now and did no more suffer an automatic downclock, must have been the very slow but constantly rising temperature situation before. CPU fans already turned with full rpm (1500, both connected to cha1 fan port using an y-adaptor).
> 
> My voltage is at 1.368 V under load, sometimes it goes up to 1.376V.
> 
> I do not know, if the new "silent" fans will handle this, i hope so.
> Seems to be stable for the moment, but I will have to do a longer test overnight.


Damn. There has to be a setting somewhere in your UEFI that makes it throttle down when it reaches that temperature.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14308868*
> I sure hope you mean 1.*1*5v


Of course he does. Just imagine what would happen if he tried to use 1.5V.

I always say "1.5" out loud. I mean, the reason is because my comfort range is 1.10, 1.11, 1.12, 1.13, 1.14, 1.15, 1.16, 1.17, 1.18, and 1.19.

*xtnod*: using a higher VCCIO can help achieve stability without raising the vCore. Or, using a higher VCCIO can help enable you to use a lower vCore and still maintain that same rock-solid stability.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14309101*
> wow good luck bud and let us know how far you can push it!!


Will let you know







All this testing takes time. I've upped the Vcore to the 1.392 -1.400v range now. It went for over half an hour using Blend 6000MB and 2 minutes per FFT with the above mentioned settings, before it crashed. So I'm guessing stability in the 1.4v Vcore range. Give or take a little.

Installing my TRUE 120 again, since my CM Hyper 212+ have a hard time coping with the added Watt drawage of the 2600K

Edit: Lol! Turned out the reason for both my USB sticks dying was because I tried plugging them in the front USB ports of my friends P67 Sabertooth setup... When looking inside his case I found the problem... I had actually plugged the USB front connectors in the motherboards Firewire connector









Also, so far my i7 2600K is looking good at 4.8GHz and in the 1.392 - 1.4000v Vcore range. Running Blend and hottest cores stays under 80C using my TRUE 120. Also I tried disabling HT, and it gave me considerable lower temps. I think 5GHz should be possible with HT off.


----------



## ramdisk

Having problems with video card. My first one was Asus GTX 570 Direct CU II and my RMA one is the same both gave me post boot problems, VGA-LED light lite and error beep code of 1 long 3 short. Can any one with a Asus P8P67 Deluxe motherboard recommend a video card, I do Photo, graphic work and some gaming and would like a card with GB video memory.


----------



## turrican9

Lapped TRUE 120 with CM Hyper 212+ Fan and Mounting bracket.


----------



## PanagiotisT

Sup d00ds!
I've been a long time lurker but never made an account until I stumbled across this thread, I'd love to join the club!
Been running my p8z68-v pro for about a month now and I'm loving it, besides the dual booting thing









Here are a couple pics of the rig!









Before cable management <_<









After, old video card though, currently running a gtx570.









And the outside~


----------



## Romin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PanagiotisT;14312813*
> Sup d00ds!
> I've been a long time lurker but never made an account until I stumbled across this thread, I'd love to join the club!
> Been running my p8z68-v pro for about a month now and I'm loving it, besides the dual booting thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a couple pics of the rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cable management <_<
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After, old video card though, currently running a gtx570.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the outside~


U can turn off one of the SATA controllers! then u just have one booting thing!!


----------



## PanagiotisT

I currently have 3 HD's + the SSD so I have no idea which controller is being used..are the sata ports linked to any specific controller?


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramdisk;14311229*
> Having problems with video card. My first one was Asus GTX 570 Direct CU II and my RMA one is the same both gave me post boot problems, VGA-LED light lite and error beep code of 1 long 3 short. Can any one with a Asus P8P67 Deluxe motherboard recommend a video card, I do Photo, graphic work and some gaming and would like a card with GB video memory.


Have you found out what that code means? Check its power cables for one thing.

Gainward GTX 570 Phantom is working great here. It's probably the quietest GTX 570 out there.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14308986*
> This 2600K seems much more promising VS my 2500K when it comes to Vcore. Running Blend at 4.8GHz right now, HT on and Vcore in the 1.376v - 1.392v Vcore range. It is running much hotter VS my 2500K though. I've almost been upto 80c on hottest core.
> 
> Probably need to mount my TRUE again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, it actually gave error on one of the Cores when too little Vcore, instead of BSOD. My 2500K always BSOD's. 2600K also froze at one time, when too little Vcore. So other behaviour VS my 2500K.
> 
> I also suspect my 2500K was holding back my RAM overclocking. As mem controller is on die.
> 
> This sucker may go to 5GHz if I can cool it. We'll see what my TRUE 120 can do for this CPU.
> 
> Wow! Now I see why it is running much hotter VS my 2500K. The Wattage according to HWiNFO is much higher for this CPU, at the same Vcore! Been up to 113 Watts while blending now VS 90 Watts + on the 2500K! Must be HT doing this! Wow! I really need to install my TRUE again. It will handle much bigger loads VS CM Hyper 212+.


It's going to run hotter with ht enabled.


----------



## xtnod

So if my OC is stable at 4.8 with an Auto setting for VCCIO than I should just leave it be correct? Also I am only running DDR3-1600 and not planning to OC that at all.

But I finally got my new case in CM HAF-X:
The 750w PSU is going away a new 1250W is on the way + another 6970


----------



## l1o2l

My motherboard sensors go weird... and recently the fans randomly stop spinning.








I'm on BIOS 1850. Any suggestions?


----------



## iLLGT3

What's the best way to clean the OEM thermal paste off of a 2500k?


----------



## eiji-gravion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14314202*
> What's the best way to clean the OEM thermal paste off of a 2500k?


I use isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l1o2l;14313804*
> My motherboard sensors go weird... and recently the fans randomly stop spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm on BIOS 1850. Any suggestions?


Ignore it, it's not real. I've had AI Suite show me 10,000,000*C on my CPU:








So, do you still think it your CPU is sub zero(assuming no DICE or others)?

But I would open the case and check to see if the fans are actually spinning or not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eiji-gravion;14314241*
> I use isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters.


I do the exact same thing, and it works great. Make sure you use 70%+ alcohol. I like to use 99%.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14309547*
> Also, so far my i7 2600K is looking good at 4.8GHz and in the 1.392 - 1.4000v Vcore range. Running Blend and hottest cores stays under 80C using my TRUE 120. Also I tried disabling HT, and it gave me considerable lower temps. I think 5GHz should be possible with HT off.


Grunion already mentioned it, but HT does increase the amount of watts used(more heat). There was a review comparing the 2500k and 2600k that also showed the wattage at different OCs. Ill have to dig up the link again, but from what i remember, the 2600k starts to use considerably more wattage than the 2500k at 4.6-4.8GHz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtnod;14313729*
> So if my OC is stable at 4.8 with an Auto setting for VCCIO than I should just leave it be correct? Also I am only running DDR3-1600 and not planning to OC that at all.
> 
> But I finally got my new case in CM HAF-X:
> The 750w PSU is going away a new 1250W is on the way + another 6970


I would try to lower your VCCIO and test for stability so that you can get lower temps. Default VCCIO is 1.05V

Your 750W PSU should work just fine with another 6970 in your rig. Check out this article.

To club members:
I ran P95 custom blend with 6000MB and 1min per FFT, and it BSOD 124 after 10h40m. The average core temp was 69*C throughout the test with an ambient temp of 20-23*C im guessing(generally my room is 21-22*C). The average Vcore was 1.410-1.415V and the range is 1.400-1.424V. So, would my OC be considered stable?

*Update:* Ive given up looking for the exact link, but here is another one that should give you a good idea of overclocked power consumption.


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eiji-gravion;14314241*
> I use isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters.


My 2500k did run for more than 30 mins max due to my motherboard problem so I just used a paper towel at it came right off lol.


----------



## l1o2l

The fans weren't spinning.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *l1o2l*


The fans weren't spinning.


Im not sure how to troubleshoot it, so wait for another member to help you out. If you see your temps, fans RPMs, or voltages become "abnormal" in AI Suite and what it's showing look possible, then i would be concerned. Unless it does it all the time and you think that it isn't real.

Link to l1o2l's previous post.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Im not sure how to troubleshoot it, so wait for another member to help you out. If you see your temps, fans RPMs, or voltages become "abnormal" in AI Suite and what it's showing look possible, then i would be concerned. Unless it does it all the time and you think that it isn't real.

Link to l1o2l's previous post.


The AI suite shows wrong readings to me either.
For instance CPU temp. it shows me 49C @ 4.5GHz, but when I check with CoreTemp it shows me 62C


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14315648*
> The AI suite shows wrong readings to me either.
> For instance CPU temp. it shows me 49C @ 4.5GHz, but when I check with CoreTemp it shows me 62C


With the P8P67 Pro BIOS 1704, ASUS changed the way AI Suite reads the CPU temp. It now reads it based on Tcase, instead of Tjunction. So i don't really pay attention to it.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PanagiotisT;14312813*
> Sup d00ds!
> I've been a long time lurker but never made an account until I stumbled across this thread, I'd love to join the club!
> Been running my p8z68-v pro for about a month now and I'm loving it, besides the dual booting thing


Welcome to the Club







Added you to the list, and also with a link to your system pictures.

Dual booting? Go into bios and Disable the Marvell controller, and also the JMicron controller if you don't use it.

If it is cold boot issue, try looking in the first post of this Club.

Signature for you.

*Main Signature -* *>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>*


PHP:


[B][I][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>[/URL][/I][/B]


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14314991*
> Ignore it, it's not real. I've had AI Suite show me 10,000,000*C on my CPU:
> 
> So, do you still think it your CPU is sub zero(assuming no DICE or others)?
> 
> But I would open the case and check to see if the fans are actually spinning or not.
> 
> I do the exact same thing, and it works great. Make sure you use 70%+ alcohol. I like to use 99%.
> 
> Grunion already mentioned it, but HT does increase the amount of watts used(more heat). There was a review comparing the 2500k and 2600k that also showed the wattage at different OCs. Ill have to dig up the link again, but from what i remember, the 2600k starts to use considerably more wattage than the 2500k at 4.6-4.8GHz.
> 
> I would try to lower your VCCIO and test for stability so that you can get lower temps. Default VCCIO is 1.05V
> 
> Your 750W PSU should work just fine with another 6970 in your rig. Check out this article.
> 
> To club members:
> I ran P95 custom blend with 6000MB and 1min per FFT, and it BSOD 124 after 10h40m. The average core temp was 69*C throughout the test with an ambient temp of 20-23*C im guessing(generally my room is 21-22*C). The average Vcore was 1.410-1.415V and the range is 1.400-1.424V. So, would my OC be considered stable?
> 
> *Update:* Ive given up looking for the exact link, but here is another one that should give you a good idea of overclocked power consumption.


I think I will disable HT. It's useless for me. As you know, I traded my 2500K in this one via a friend. 2500K, or 4 real threads/Cores really is enough for me. As it seems now, 4.7GHz will probably be a nice setting with HT on and with HT Off I should be able to get closer to 5GHz.

I've been testing alot the last days. And you should be a little careful with the 1 minute per FFT thing. I ran it like that on my 2500K for almost an hour and using 6000MB. I stopped it, then I ran the usual 15 minutes per FFT and 6000MB, and if I remember correctly, it didn't even last 15 minutes. Strangely enough.

I think that 4 - 5 minutes per FFT would be a better tradeoff when it comes to stability and testing things a little faster. Really, I'm getting sick of these 12 hours + attempts, only to wake up to a rebooted computer who has BSOD'd while I was a sleep. And I think it often happens in the critical 9 -12 hour of the test.

Using 5 minutes per FFT will Cause Prime 95 Blend to go through the same amount of FFT's in 4 hours VS the 15 minute preset will use 12 hours on the same amount. I think I will make 5 minutes per FFT my new standard test. I can't stand all this waiting anymore


----------



## iLLGT3

Ok, I just booted it up and this is where it was at. (I've recently shut it down due to the CPU being so hot??)

It was on for less than a minute why does it say it is that hot?










Does everything else look normal?


----------



## TwoCables

*PanagiotisT:*

Welcome to the club!

By the way, the memory has to go in the blue slots. To see proof, check out page 2-5 of the manual.









Anyway, here's why I'm posting today: my system is finally stable at 4.8GHz! My maximum temp was 72°C, and I think the maximum voltage was 1.392V (it might have been 1.400V) while it seemed to hover mostly at 1.384V while sometimes dipping down to 1.376V.










Below are my settings:

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-29-1T
*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto



I love it: 4.8GHz with air cooling.


----------



## eternal7trance

How do you like that 580, TC?


----------



## beetlespin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14317527*
> Ok, I just booted it up and this is where it was at. (I've recently shut it down due to the CPU being so hot??)
> 
> It was on for less than a minute why does it say it is that hot?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does everything else look normal?


No try reseat the Heat sink again with new tim.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14317798*
> *PanagiotisT:*
> 
> Anyway, here's why I'm posting today: my system is finally stable at 4.8GHz! My maximum temp was 72°C, and I think the maximum voltage was 1.392V (it might have been 1.400V) while it seemed to hover mostly at 1.384V while sometimes dipping down to 1.376V.
> 
> I love it: 4.8GHz with air cooling.


Why not use HWiNFO 32/64? It monitors everything. It will show current, min and max for everything. So you can see all Vcore spikes. How low and how high it has been. And the program is free









btw: Congrats with a nice overclock


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14318078*
> How do you like that 580, TC?


In regards to just the GTX 580 itself, it seems to be the perfect companion with Sandy Bridge!







Yeah, I think I still want more (Crysis 2 is not liquid smooth yet lol sigh, I'm so greedy), but this isn't bad at *all*.

In regards to this specific 580, I like it! I thought it was going to have more weight to it, but I was pleasantly surprised because it's quite noticeably lighter than the Twin Frozr II (the Golden Edition GTX 465)!

I haven't played around with it that much, but I have already noticed that it seem to have superior cooling performance to the Golden Edition Twin Frozr II so far! Me likey.









It also seems to work perfectly with MSI Afterburner 2.1.0 (which puts ASUS Smart Doctor to absolute _shame_).

All in all, I am happy with my purchase! I got a very noticeable boost in performance without having to have more than one card installed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14318109*
> Why not use HWiNFO 32/64? It monitors everything. It will show current, min and max for everything. So you can see all Vcore spikes. How low and how high it has been. And the program is free


I looked at that program, but Real Temp and CPU-Z tell me everything I want to know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14318109*
> btw: Congrats with a nice overclock


Thank you!

I think what I'm going to do next is use Prime95's Custom Blend test utilizing as much memory as I can possibly get it to use (hopefully much more than 6000MB since I have 8192).

I might also use a higher priority setting in Prime95 just OCCT uses a much higher priority than Prime95 does (OCCT is at about 7 or so while Prime95 is only at 1). I don't know if this will affect my results, but I think it's worth a shot.

Or, I might have to shoot for 4.9GHz! Although, this voltage is already getting kinda high.


----------



## iLLGT3

I repasted and applied the heatsink again and now it is idling at 58 give or take. I'm gonna roll with that for now and buy a H60 soon.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14318281*
> I repasted and applied the heatsink again and now it is idling at 58 give or take. I'm gonna roll with that for now and buy a H60 soon.


Windows temps are all that matter.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14318239*
> I looked at that program, but Real Temp and CPU-Z tell me everything I want to know.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> I think what I'm going to do next is use Prime95's Custom Blend test utilizing as much memory as I can possibly get it to use (hopefully much more than 6000MB since I have 8192).
> 
> I might also use a higher priority setting in Prime95 just OCCT uses a much higher priority than Prime95 does (OCCT is at about 7 or so while Prime95 is only at 1). I don't know if this will affect my results, but I think it's worth a shot.
> 
> Or, I might have to shoot for 4.9GHz! Although, this voltage is already getting kinda high.


HWiNFO really monitors it all. I find it's a great little prog. But I too use CPU-Z and realtemp in addition to it.

I think the priority only matters if you're using your computer for other things while running Prime 95. If you leave it, it will run with full priority.

I always type in 6000MB. I have 8GB RAM. This leaves about 1GB free.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14318239*
> In regards to just the GTX 580 itself, it seems to be the perfect companion with Sandy Bridge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I think I still want more (Crysis 2 is not liquid smooth yet lol sigh, I'm so greedy), but this isn't bad at *all*.
> 
> In regards to this specific 580, I like it! I thought it was going to have more weight to it, but I was pleasantly surprised because it's quite noticeably lighter than the Twin Frozr II (the Golden Edition GTX 465)!
> 
> I haven't played around with it that much, but I have already noticed that it seem to have superior cooling performance to the Golden Edition Twin Frozr II so far! Me likey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also seems to work perfectly with MSI Afterburner 2.1.0 (which puts ASUS Smart Doctor to absolute _shame_).
> 
> All in all, I am happy with my purchase! I got a very noticeable boost in performance without having to have more than one card installed.
> 
> I looked at that program, but Real Temp and CPU-Z tell me everything I want to know.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> I think what I'm going to do next is use Prime95's Custom Blend test utilizing as much memory as I can possibly get it to use (hopefully much more than 6000MB since I have 8192).
> 
> I might also use a higher priority setting in Prime95 just OCCT uses a much higher priority than Prime95 does (OCCT is at about 7 or so while Prime95 is only at 1). I don't know if this will affect my results, but I think it's worth a shot.
> 
> Or, I might have to shoot for 4.9GHz! Although, this voltage is already getting kinda high.


Don't forget to overclock that 580 too! If you can't open the voltage control, the newest beta version of afterburner supports that on the DCIIs. I see some nice gains when I bump mine up to 900mhz. Anything puts the Asus Smartdoctor to shame.

Back on the thread topic, I would try for the 4.9ghz and if you want to keep it simple, you should grab an H80 or something like that. They seem to love higher voltages on the SB procs. I'm going to be grabbing one myself.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14318281*
> I repasted and applied the heatsink again and now it is idling at 58 give or take. I'm gonna roll with that for now and buy a H60 soon.


What are you using to monitor the temperature? I mean, what does Real Temp 3.67 say?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14318353*
> HWiNFO really monitors it all. I find it's a great little prog. But I too use CPU-Z and realtemp in addition to it.


I'm fine.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14318353*
> I think the priority only matters if you're using your computer for other things while running Prime 95. If you leave it, it will run with full priority.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14318353*
> I always type in 6000MB. I have 8GB RAM. This leaves about 1GB free.


I know that you always use 6000MB, so that's why I said that. I'm just saying that I will try to use more. You see, LinX uses much more than just 6000, so I'll use the max amount that LinX uses and then I'll go from there.


----------



## turrican9

Here is my status on my 2600K - It ran at 4.8GHz HT-ON Blend Custom 6000MB, 15 minutes per FFT for about, guessing here - 9 - 10 hours before collapsing. It hovered in the 1.372 - 1.410v Vcore range. So a tad more Vcore will make it 12 hours + stable.

However, I don't care about this for the moment. Instead I have disabled HT and are shooting for 5GHz stable. Playing at the 1.456 - 1.480V Vcore range now. Temps are under 80C while running Blend.


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14318486*
> What are you using to monitor the temperature? I mean, what does Real Temp 3.67 say?


Core Temp changes from 29C at the low to 41C at the high.

This is a noob question but I assume 1850 is the newest BIOS yea? I just want to update to whichever is best. And how do I run this "ROM" file?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14318437*
> Don't forget to overclock that 580 too! If you can't open the voltage control, the newest beta version of afterburner supports that on the DCIIs. I see some nice gains when I bump mine up to 900mhz. Anything puts the Asus Smartdoctor to shame.


Don't worry, I'm not going to leave my 580 at stock.

Anyway, Afterburner 2.1.0. is working perfectly for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14318437*
> Back on the thread topic, I would try for the 4.9ghz and if you want to keep it simple, you should grab an H80 or something like that. They seem to love higher voltages on the SB procs. I'm going to be grabbing one myself.


I'm fine: I haven't even had the Frio for 2 weeks yet. The Frio was a part of my Sandy Bridge upgrade.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14318511*
> Core Temp changes from 29C at the low to 41C at the high.


So then your idle temperature is 29°C, and your full-load is 41°C right?

By the way, I do recommend Real Temp 3.67.







It can't be found on techPowerUp's website yet, so here's one of a few places where you can get it:

http://gigaflopd.com/downloads/realtemp/

I like this download location because it does a nice job of explaining why we would want 3.67 instead of earlier versions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3;14318511*
> This is a noob question but I assume 1850 is the newest BIOS yea? I just want to update to whichever is best. And how do I run this "ROM" file?


I recommend using the built-in utility in the UEFI. If you want to know how to use it, then I recommend consulting the manual. I mean sure, I could try to explain it, but why would I do that when the manual probably does a much better job than I can?









Tip: you can leave the BIOS file on your hard drive and update directly from that. I noticed that this built-in utility can search the hard drive when you do not have a USB flash drive connected!


----------



## turrican9

Have lowered Vcore now. Fluctuating in the 1.432 - 1.456v Vcore range while running Blend at 5GHz HT-Off now. Looking very good


----------



## Alex132

Where'd you get the 2600k from







?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;14318725*
> Where'd you get the 2600k from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


A friend of mine had some trouble with his setup. So he came to me with his system. We agreed I could try his CPU and trade for mine, if his overclocked better. Since he don't care about overclocking.

At first he thought he had a 2500K, but turned out it was a 2600K. So I'll just pay him a little for the switch









I will probably run this with HT OFF anyway. It's useless to me, and it overclocks better and runs much cooler with it Off


----------



## neonraver

Can anyone help me with this? http://www.overclock.net/showthread.php?t=1073675
Trying for the second time to remove and reinstall all the Bluetooth drivers


----------



## Alex132

D:! Lucky


----------



## Trippen Out

Add me to the list of owners please. here is my proof

http://www.overclock.net/intel-build-logs/1070063-trippen-out-sandybridge-upgrade-thread.html


----------



## pal

Hi!
I wanna join Asus P8Z68 Deluxe CLub, can you add me. Thanks.

Just a 3DMark11 test at stock speeds.
http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1560936


----------



## neonraver

Stupid BIOS update. Any help? http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1073744-just-updated-asus-p8p67-pro-bios.html


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trippen Out;14318866*
> Add me to the list of owners please. here is my proof
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-build-logs/1070063-trippen-out-sandybridge-upgrade-thread.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pal;14319095*
> Hi!
> I wanna join Asus P8Z68 Deluxe CLub, can you add me. Thanks.
> 
> Just a 3DMark11 test at stock speeds.
> http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1560936


Welcome to the Club you two







Adding more owners to the P8P67 Deluxe and P8Z68 Deluxe lists is good







*Added to the list*


----------



## Trippen Out

wait im confuzed why is there z68 owners in this thread when the poll clearly shows that they should have their own thread?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trippen Out;14319540*
> wait im confuzed why is there z68 owners in this thread when the poll clearly shows that they should have their own thread?


Because, a couple of people who had nothing to do with this Club voted in the first place. Also, the poll was not open long enough. And anyway, in the end, it was my decision to what I would include in this Club.

These ASUS P8P67 and P8Z68 boards are so similar, appart from the two extra features in the P8Z68 series, that there was no need for another Club.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14319561*
> Because, a couple of people who had nothing to do with this Club voted in the first place. Also, the poll was not open long enough. And anyway, in the end, it was my decision to what I would include in this Club.
> 
> These ASUS P8P67 and P8Z68 boards are so similar, appart from the two extra features in the P8Z68 series, that there was no need for another Club.


wish i could of voted. id out the z68 to help prevent confusion.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trippen Out;14319870*
> wish i could of voted. id out the z68 to help prevent confusion.


Confusion? I haven't seen one sign of confusion in this owners Club.

Only difference between the P8P67 and P8Z68 series is, as I've said, Lucid Virtu and SSD Harddrive caching features in the P8Z68 series. Otherwise, they are almost identcal. Bios wise and everything.


----------



## turrican9

So far so good...


----------



## mothow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14319561*
> Because, a couple of people who had nothing to do with this Club voted in the first place. Also, the poll was not open long enough. And anyway, in the end, it was my decision to what I would include in this Club.
> 
> These ASUS P8P67 and P8Z68 boards are so similar, appart from the two extra features in the P8Z68 series, that there was no need for another Club.


Yeah thats the waty to tell em


----------



## mothow

I love my board.


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14320381*
> So far so good...


man those are some sweet results and staying below 80C, very niiice

whats the batch on that chip?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Viper*


man those are some sweet results and staying below 80C, very niiice

whats the batch on that chip?


Took no notice of the batch when installing it.

It crashed before it reached 2 hours. I've gone back to the 1606 bios (Used 1850 bios in that snapshot above), since earlier tests has indicated that my 2500K was stable at a certain Offset with the 1606 bios but not with 1704 and 1850 bios at the same Offset Vcore. Due to bigger Vcore fluctuation under load.

Worst case scenario I just up the Vcore a notch.


----------



## turrican9

*The Viper*

What are your best results with HT on/off, Vcore and temps?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Took no notice of the batch when installing it.

It crashed before it reached 2 hours. I've gone back to the 1606 bios (Used 1850 bios in that snapshot above), since earlier tests has indicated that my 2500K was stable at a certain Offset with the 1606 bios but not with 1704 and 1850 bios at the same Offset Vcore. Due to bigger Vcore fluctuation under load.

Worst case scenario I just up the Vcore a notch.


The batch number is printed on the box, not the CPU.


----------



## TwoCables

I've been trying to take screenshots of the UEFI, but every single one comes out with giant horizontal black bars that block too much of the UEFI.

Help?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *neonraver*


Can anyone help me with this? http://www.overclock.net/showthread.php?t=1073675
Trying for the second time to remove and reinstall all the Bluetooth drivers


Did you make a thread in the motioninjoy forum? They might be able to help you out better, but to be honest i haven't look at their forum.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


So far so good...











Are you going to use 5GHz for 24/7, or are you just testing the CPU? Until i saw this picture, i didn't realize how much HT affects the CPU temps at high OCs.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


HWiNFO really monitors it all. I find it's a great little prog. But I too use CPU-Z and realtemp in addition to it.


Do you know if HWiNFO can log temps and voltages, preferably in Excel?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


In regards to just the GTX 580 itself, it seems to be the perfect companion with Sandy Bridge!







Yeah, I think I still want more (Crysis 2 is not liquid smooth yet lol sigh, I'm so greedy), but this isn't bad at *all*.


Crysis 2 DX11 with max settings is smooth for me. Ive only had one or two major FPS drops for a few seconds. Here are some FPS results that i got:
http://www.overclock.net/14276470-post88.html
http://www.overclock.net/14290857-post92.html


----------



## TwoCables

When I said that it's not liquid smooth, I meant that I fell victim to thinking that upgrading from the GTX 470 to a GTX 580 was going to result in a constant framerate of like 50, 55 or maybe even 60.









60 FPS or higher is liquid smooth. An average of ~46 is not. I can feel a difference between ~45 and 60 FPS. Sure, I might not be able to _see_ it as much, but it certainly _feels_ different.


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*The Viper*

What are your best results with HT on/off, Vcore and temps?


still in the process of testing things, right now im working on 4.8, but my definition of stable is way different then alot of you guys running those 12 hour+blend tests. If I can run the apps and games i need to and no random BSODs thats pretty "stable" for my needs. I will do some P95 and LinX runs though but they will be short.

So right now im at [email protected] HT ON, Internal PLL disabled, game stable, app stable, and I did do a few LinX CPU runs(temps mid 70s). I doubt it would be 12hours blend stable though

Not sure if these SB chips are like the last generation chips when it comes to heat. My last chip (i7 920) could OC to the clouds as long as you kept temps under 80C, the 2nd it went over 80C youd get errors. So I try to run my LinX tests in the morning with that nice cold morning air being sucked into the CPU









Im thinking of trying for that 5.0ghz and possibly disabling HT to save some heat and Vcore, I would like to know myself if someone has tested HT ON and OFF at higher OCs (4.8 and above) to see the difference in Vcore and Temps.

Also I need to do a max multi test here pretty soon, hopefully tomm morning


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


When I said that it's not liquid smooth, I meant that I fell victim to thinking that upgrading from the GTX 470 to a GTX 580 was going to result in a constant framerate of like 50, 55 or maybe even 60.









60 FPS or higher is liquid smooth. An average of ~46 is not. I can feel a difference between ~45 and 60 FPS. Sure, I might not be able to _see_ it as much, but it certainly _feels_ different.


That's what overclocking is for.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


That's what overclocking is for.










Yeah, I'll get to it. Keep your shirt on, lady!









That's a Bugs Bunny reference.









I mean, I am still messing with my i5-2500K and I've only had the 580 installed for about a day and a half. Believe me, I want to overclock the 580, but I still want to play with my i5-2500K some more (I am the kind of person who needs to remain focused on one thing at a time).


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


The batch number is printed on the box, not the CPU.










Well, I don't have the box. As I've said, switched it with my friend. Only took it out of his system


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Well, I don't have the box. As I've said, switched it with my friend. Only took it out of his system










I know that you guys switched CPUs, but I was kinda hoping he kept the box and still had it when you guys switched.


----------



## TFL Replica

Does nobody use LinX for stress testing anymore?


----------



## neonleon79

Hi guys, hopefully someone can help
Built my sys a month ago an everythin workin fine up till 2 days ago. Got home, turned on my UPS (Sankek Blazer 1000w) and pushed my power button. Cue fizzling sound and dark smoke filling my case! Not good. Figured it had to be PSU so brought it back and demanded a new one. Being in Vietnam they gave me what looked like a recently repaired one and said it was new!! Not being able to argue I took it cos I at least wanted to test my sys to make sure nothing else was fried...
Got home, plugged in the mobo power an 24 pin connector and my graphics card. Said a little prayer and powered up. POST-ed fine, except, no keyboard was detected. Got to windows log-on and my mouse wouldn work either (My keyboard and mouse are USB). Plugged em out an into a diff plug but no go. I have put in the on-board USB 3 adapter so I tried that, and it worked.... So my 4 USB ports on the back of the MOBO, and the 2 on the top-front of my case are not working (The top-two might not be powered yet as i didn plug everythin in to my psu yet, some fans an maybe power for the top controllers,, not sure)...
Went in to bios an legacy usb is enabled, tried disabling, saving, enabling, but no go,,,,
Any help???


----------



## TwoCables

nawon72:

I have an update on my Crysis 2 performance. When I Alt+Tab to the desktop and then go back into the game, my performance ends up being much better - that is, much closer to what I was expecting!

So, whew.


----------



## neonleon79

didn really finish the last post.. sorry
so is anyone else havin any problems with their usb 2 ports?
seein as they were workin fine pre meltdown, could this still be a PSU problem?
thanks


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Hey guys, I'm looking at making the jump to SB. I'll probably be rocking the 2600K. After going Gigabyte for years, I'll be jumping on board the Asus train. There are 4 motherboards listed on the front page of this thread. I'm trying to figure out what the difference between the 4 of them is, and which one would be the best one for me to buy. Thanks for all your help guys!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus;14325659*
> Hey guys, I'm looking at making the jump to SB. I'll probably be rocking the 2600K. After going Gigabyte for years, I'll be jumping on board the Asus train. There are 4 motherboards listed on the front page of this thread. I'm trying to figure out what the difference between the 4 of them is, and which one would be the best one for me to buy. Thanks for all your help guys!


As far as overclocking ability goes, they're all the same except for the Deluxe. The Deluxe is for more extreme overclocking, such as when using sub-zero cooling like Liquid Nitrogen, or Dry Ice. Other than that, it really boils down to what features you need (like connectivity or something).


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus;14325659*
> Hey guys, I'm looking at making the jump to SB. I'll probably be rocking the 2600K. After going Gigabyte for years, I'll be jumping on board the Asus train. There are 4 motherboards listed on the front page of this thread. I'm trying to figure out what the difference between the 4 of them is, and which one would be the best one for me to buy. Thanks for all your help guys!


They're such great boards that it's almost impossible to go wrong. You are right to jump on board the ASUS train, Gigabyte and MSI have nothing to say. Even Asrock has done a better job than them. Go with whatever fits your budget, requirements and is available.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14320381*
> So far so good...


lol. lucky and congratulations for making it to 5 ghz!


----------



## pal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neonleon79;14325100*
> didn really finish the last post.. sorry
> so is anyone else havin any problems with their usb 2 ports?
> seein as they were workin fine pre meltdown, could this still be a PSU problem?
> thanks


A, I have similar problem with PS/2 keyboard, witch is not working, if I connect keyboard to PS/2 port. I must use PS/2 to USB hub so my keyboards is working.
Try connect some other device to that USB port, like Usb pen, GSM,.. and you will se, if it's the same.


----------



## robertftw

Hi.

I'm thinking of getting myself a Asus P8Z68-V Pro for my new PC. With that I was thinking of a Noctua NH-U9B SE2 as a CPU-cooler. However I'm a bit concerned that the CPU-cooler will cover one for the memory-slots. Does anyone have a experience of that cooler on that motherboard?

EDIT: I read in another forum that the motherboard takes around 16sec before BIOS shows up on the screen after boot. Is the solution metioned on the first page of this thread as the cool-boot?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14324049*
> I know that you guys switched CPUs, but I was kinda hoping he kept the box and still had it when you guys switched.


Does anybody care about batch numbers anymore? I thought there was no connection between batch numbers and overclocking anymore..

He may have the box, haven't asked him.

Back in 1998 when PII 300's I hunted for the right batch numbers/stepping, production week and where it was made. An example - Costa Rica Week 37 SL2W8 had the same L2 Cache (Not on the Core. Slot1 system. Running on half the speed of the core) as the PII 450, and could often overclock to 504MHz.

btw: Have not been able to make this 2600K 12 hours + Blend stable at 5GHz yet. I'm guessing I will have to manipulate the CPU PLL Voltage. I know it gets tricky at these speeds.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14326888*
> Does anybody care about batch numbers anymore? I thought there was no connection between batch numbers and overclocking anymore..
> 
> He may have the box, haven't asked him.
> 
> Back in 1998 when PII 300's I hunted for the right batch numbers/stepping, production week and where it was made. An example - Costa Rica Week 37 SL2W8 had the same L2 Cache (Not on the Core. Slot1 system. Running on half the speed of the core) as the PII 450, and could often overclock to 504MHz.
> 
> btw: Have not been able to make this 2600K 12 hours + Blend stable at 5GHz yet. I'm guessing I will have to manipulate the CPU PLL Voltage. I know it gets tricky at these speeds.


I have the same impression that batch numbers are nowhere near as important as they used to be. I actually got that impression right away when people were telling me that it's about the luck of the draw. I mean, I immediately felt like asking them something like, _"Well, what about batch numbers?"_


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14325975*
> lol. lucky and congratulations for making it to 5 ghz!


Well, I have not been able to make it 12 hours + Blend stable yet, in my usual Custom 6000MB 15 minute per FFT preset.

However, It would do almost 2 hours on 6000MB and 5 minute per FFT at Offset + 0.080 and Ultra High LLC. The strange thing is I tried Offset all the way up to + 0.100, and still not 12 hours + stable.

So this makes me believe I have to play with the CPU PLL Voltage. I've seen many who actually have to lower it to the 1.700v + range in order to get stability at 5GHz.

If this does not solve it, I will try upping the VCCIO a tad and/or try manual Vcore setting.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robertftw;14326451*
> Hi.
> 
> I'm thinking of getting myself a Asus P8Z68-V Pro for my new PC. With that I was thinking of a Noctua NH-U9B SE2 as a CPU-cooler. However I'm a bit concerned that the CPU-cooler will cover one for the memory-slots. Does anyone have a experience of that cooler on that motherboard?
> 
> EDIT: I read in another forum that the motherboard takes around 16sec before BIOS shows up on the screen after boot. Is the solution metioned on the first page of this thread as the cool-boot?


The problem is it first shows the bios screen, then the Marvell bios screen, then back to the bios screen and then Marvell again.

However, this does not happen if you have drives plugged into one of the Marvell ports. You should use the 6 native ports first anyway.

This is why, most people just disable the Marvell ports. Boot will be normal again. So conclusion - No problem.


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

Any news on what that extra heatsink in the EVO and Deluxe cools?

It is extended with a heatpipe from the VRM cooling, so it will help those a little anyway.

Also, when I look inside my P8P67 PRO system, I can imagine if I had a EVO or Deluxe, I wouldn't be able to see that nice heatsink anyway, since the cooler (TRUE 120 or even my CM Hyper 212+) would block the nice view between it and the graphics card.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14327294*
> *TwoCables*
> 
> Any news on what that extra heatsink in the EVO and Deluxe cools?
> 
> It is extended with a heatpipe from the VRM cooling, so it will help those a little anyway.
> 
> Also, when I look inside my P8P67 PRO system, I can imagine if I had a EVO or Deluxe, I wouldn't be able to see that nice heatsink anyway, since the cooler (TRUE 120 or even my CM Hyper 212+) would block the nice view between it and the graphics card.


I have to admit that while it was fun to admire while setting everything up and then again when I upgraded to a GTX 580, I am a little bit disappointed that I don't get to see enough of it through my window.

Although, I guess it's comforting to know that the VRM next to the rear ports/connectors has this extra heatsink working for it.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14327351*
> I have to admit that while it was fun to admire while setting everything up and then again when I upgraded to a GTX 580, I am a little bit disappointed that I don't get to see enough of it through my window.
> 
> Although, I guess it's comforting to know that the VRM next to the rear ports/connectors has this extra heatsink working for it.


Have any nice pictures of your P8P67 EVO system with the GTX 580 installed?

Also, I've changed the Club picture (The one below the Club Name in first post) from the P8P67 PRO to the P8P67 EVO. Since it has this nice extra heatsink, and since you have so many posts on OCN, it is also to honor you.


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14326888*
> Does anybody care about batch numbers anymore? I thought there was no connection between batch numbers and overclocking anymore..
> 
> He may have the box, haven't asked him.
> 
> Back in 1998 when PII 300's I hunted for the right batch numbers/stepping, production week and where it was made. An example - Costa Rica Week 37 SL2W8 had the same L2 Cache (Not on the Core. Slot1 system. Running on half the speed of the core) as the PII 450, and could often overclock to 504MHz.
> 
> btw: Have not been able to make this 2600K 12 hours + Blend stable at 5GHz yet. I'm guessing I will have to manipulate the CPU PLL Voltage. I know it gets tricky at these speeds.


My example is more recent. The overclocking capability of E8400s varied MASSIVELY depending on the batch number. I had a notoriously bad batch that could only barely manage 4GHz.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14327367*
> Have any nice pictures of your P8P67 EVO system with the GTX 580 installed?
> 
> Also, I've changed the Club picture (The one below the Club Name in first post) from the P8P67 PRO to the P8P67 EVO. Since it has this nice extra heatsink, and since you have so many posts on OCN, it is also to honor you.












You're too much.









Unfortunately, I've been too busy playing with my system that I forgot all about taking pictures. lol


----------



## turrican9

I have noticed that when using Offset Vcore sometimes the VID will default a bit higher, according to Core Temp, after I've rebooted Windows, been into bios and boot back again. This will result in a little bit higher Load Vcore, if the VID is a bit higher that is.

I've seen this several times. Also with my 2500K. It may be this only happens on these higher speeds. I think I will start using manual Vcore for the 4.8GHz - 5GHz range, to remedy this situation. I don't like it.


----------



## TwoCables

How much higher?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14327677*
> How much higher?


In this example the VID suddenly goes from 1.3711 to 1.3811 on load. And as you know, you add Offset on top of this.

I've seen this many times now, and I just don't like it.

Only thing I changed was the VCCIO from AUTO (1.050v) to 1.150v. But I don't think this has anything to do with it, as I've seen this before.

btw: When this happens, it is always one notch. 1.3611 to 1.3711 etc... As far as I can remember. But I cannot remember seeing it at 4.5GHz, only higher speeds.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14327720*
> In this example the VID suddenly goes from 1.3711 to 1.3811 on load. And as you know, you add Offset on top of this.
> 
> I've seen this many times now, and I just don't like it.
> 
> Only thing I changed was the VCCIO from AUTO (1.050v) to 1.150v. But I don't think this has anything to do with it, as I've seen this before.
> 
> btw: When this happens, it is always one notch. 1.3611 to 1.3711 etc... As far as I can remember. But I cannot remember seeing it at 4.5GHz, only higher speeds.


Does it seem to always seem to happen immediately?

It's making me want to log my vCore changes during a stress test.


----------



## TFL Replica

Why do you use offset anyway? Offset reminds me of budget Gigabyte boards that lacked an option to directly set any of the voltages.


----------



## beetlespin

It must be the chip. The ga-z68x-ud5 b3 also show a change VID on boot ups.


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Is there anyway to monitor GPU temps and adjust GPU fan speed through the asus suit ii utility?


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic;14327856*
> Is there anyway to monitor GPU temps and adjust GPU fan speed through the asus suit ii utility?


May I ask why you'd want to do that? ASUS have their own separate utility for ASUS cards and MSI Afterburner is still the best overall GPU monitoring/overclocking/fanspeed utility.


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14327888*
> May I ask why you'd want to do that? ASUS have their own separate utility for ASUS cards and MSI Afterburner is still the best overall GPU monitoring/overclocking/fanspeed utility.


I just built this computer and am getting to know the Asus suite II. So far I'm not overly impressed. Found it surprising that no GPU monitor was available and I get BSOD everytime I use the auto overclock utility. Figure I'll have to spend some time reading through this thread to figure out all the issues.


----------



## turrican9

The VID is not consistent. Suddenly it was 1.3761. And remeber, you add Offset to the VID. I'm going manual Vcore now.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Does anyone have any knowledge of the P8P67 Pro's RAM clearance with Prolimatech Megahalems? I'm not sure if its going to cover the RAM slot or not.


----------



## eiji-gravion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus;14327952*
> Does anyone have any knowledge of the P8P67 Pro's RAM clearance with Prolimatech Megahalems? I'm not sure if its going to cover the RAM slot or not.


Mine fits fine using the ram below in the two blue slots.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231445

The heatsink and fan itself have plenty of clearance it's the included fan clips that get really close and will touch the ram a little until you mess with the positioning of the clips a bit.


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Ok... now any idea for monitoring memory voltage/timings? I got used to the leet utility in EVGA which let's you monitor everything. I can't find anything in this Suite II and memory doesn't show up in CPU-z.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14327841*
> Why do you use offset anyway? Offset reminds me of budget Gigabyte boards that lacked an option to directly set any of the voltages.


For 3 reasons in random order:

Extremely low idle voltage
Extremely low idle clocks
Lower idle temps!
This should result in a longer life from the CPU than would otherwise be obtained by keeping the vCore at 1.384V or 1.392V 24/7 with the CPU clock at 4.8GHz 24/7 too. That means the temps are always higher as well.

On my first day overclocking Sandy Bridge, I went right for Manual Voltage because using Offset felt kinda like Auto. However, a few people (and a couple of guides) told me about using Offset and the rest is history.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic;14327918*
> I just built this computer and am getting to know the Asus suite II. So far I'm not overly impressed. Found it surprising that no GPU monitor was available and I get BSOD everytime I use the auto overclock utility. Figure I'll have to spend some time reading through this thread to figure out all the issues.


Yeah, you should see how bad "Smart Doctor" is for their graphics cards. I've never seen worse software in my life.

So, MSI Afterburner is truly the best and there is almost nothing that can beat it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic;14328110*
> Ok... now any idea for monitoring memory voltage/timings? I got used to the leet utility in EVGA which let's you monitor everything. I can't find anything in this Suite II and memory doesn't show up in CPU-z.


The "Memory" tab in CPU-Z shows the timings while CPUID's program called "HWMonitor" can show the voltage (but I can't guarantee that you will see the voltage - I used to with an older board, but not with the P8P67 EVO).


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14328129*
> For 3 reasons in random order:
> 
> Extremely low idle voltage
> Extremely low idle clocks
> Lower idle temps!
> This should result in a longer life from the CPU than would otherwise be obtained by keeping the vCore at 1.384V or 1.392V 24/7 with the CPU clock at 4.8GHz 24/7 too. That means the temps are always higher as well.
> 
> On my first day overclocking Sandy Bridge, I went right for Manual Voltage because using Offset felt kinda like Auto. However, a few people (and a couple of guides) told me about using Offset and the rest is history.
> 
> Yeah, you should see how bad "Smart Doctor" is for their graphics cards. I've never seen worse software in my life.
> 
> So, MSI Afterburner is truly the best and there is almost nothing that can beat it.
> 
> The "Memory" tab in CPU-Z shows the timings while CPUID's program called "HWMonitor" can show the voltage (but I can't guarantee that you will see the voltage - I used to with an older board, but not with the P8P67 EVO).


I have CPU-Z (version 1.52.2) and it shows nothing in the timings section.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic;14328195*
> I have CPU-Z (version 1.52.2) and it shows nothing in the timings section.


Then let's try CPU-Z 1.58:

http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.58-64bits-en.zip

http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.58-32bits-en.zip


----------



## turrican9

CPU-Z 1.57.1 and up is the minimum to show Sandybridge systems correctly, as far as I know.


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twocables;14328254*
> then let's try cpu-z 1.58:
> 
> http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.58-64bits-en.zip
> 
> http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.58-32bits-en.zip


thank you!!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic;14328329*
> thank you!!


You're very welcome!


----------



## turrican9

So now I'm using manual Vcore - 1.46v, LLC at ultra high at 5GHz. Gave me the same readings according to HWiNFO when Offset at + 0.080 - 1.440v - 1.472v under load. Mostly in the 1.456v and 1.456v range though. Both my recent attempts using Offset resulted in Error on Core 0 after a little over one hour with Blend Custom 6000MB and 5 minutes per FFT.

It has now gone 1 hour and five minutes using manual Vcore. Still going strong.

Spoke to soon. It failed.

Back to the drawing board.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14328461*
> So now I'm using manual Vcore - 1.46v, LLC at ultra high at 5GHz. Gave me the same readings according to HWiNFO when Offset at + 0.080 - 1.440v - 1.472v under load. Mostly in the 1.456v and 1.456v range though. Both my recent attempts using Offset resulted in Error on Core 0 after a little over one hour with Blend Custom 6000MB and 5 minutes per FFT.
> 
> It has now gone 1 hour and five minutes using manual Vcore. Still going strong.
> 
> Spoke to soon. It failed.
> 
> Back to the drawing board.


What are all of your settings?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14328491*
> What are all of your settings?


Same as the template you're using.

I'm trying mem at stock 1600 9-9-9-24-2t-1.5v instead of my usual 1600 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v (which have been tested okay at lower CPU speeds).

Then we will see if it passes much over an hour using 5 minute per FFT.


----------



## TFL Replica

I'm confused. Does manual vcore without LLC no longer work the way it used to (like on core 2 for example)?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14328526*
> Same as the template you're using.
> 
> I'm trying mem at stock 1600 9-9-9-24-2t-1.5v instead of my usual 1600 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v (which have been tested okay at lower CPU speeds).
> 
> Then we will see if it passes much over an hour using 5 minute per FFT.


Hmm, then maybe it's time to raise the VCCIO.









Or, use a higher VRM Frequency (like more than 350).

Or both.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14328527*
> I'm confused. Does manual vcore without LLC no longer work the way it used to (like on core 2 for example)?


Manual Vcore is just fine. Only difference between it and Offset, is that Offset also ramp down the Vcore when it clocks down the CPU.

Manual Vcore, it will stay at what you selected, even if the CPU downclocks. Anyway, there is not that much difference between Idle wattage. Since the CPU downclocks anyway.

I'm back to Offset again. It seems, even if the VID vary a little, I get the same readings in HWiNFO when under load.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14328545*
> Hmm, then maybe it's time to raise the VCCIO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or, use a higher VRM Frequency (like more than 350).
> 
> Or both.


Tried raising VCCIO, to no avail. But not the VRM Frequency. Will try it if my current attempt fails.


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Any of you tried out this quick guide to 4.8GHz?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265398-Official-ASUS-P8P67-Series-Overclocking-Guide-and-Information

I'm still downloading updates and other BS, but then I'm dying to start toying with OC'ing this sandy bridge 2500k. I'm shocked by what people seem to be getting so easily. Last time I OC'd, 4.2GHz was my top. Can't imagine getting 4.8 in 10 minutes.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14328563*
> Tried raising VCCIO, to no avail. But not the VRM Frequency. Will try it if my current attempt fails.


I forgot: what VCCIO values have you tried? This is kind of fascinating.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic;14328575*
> Any of you tried out this quick guide to 4.8GHz?
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265398-Official-ASUS-P8P67-Series-Overclocking-Guide-and-Information
> 
> I'm still downloading updates and other BS, but then I'm dying to start toying with OC'ing this sandy bridge 2500k. I'm shocked by what people seem to be getting so easily. Last time I OC'd, 4.2GHz was my top. Can't imagine getting 4.8 in 10 minutes.


That is the post I quoted in the second post of this thread


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14328576*
> I forgot: what VCCIO values have you tried? This is kind of fascinating.


When at AUTO it is 1.050v. I have tried all the way up to 1.200. Usually I try 1.150v.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic;14328575*
> Any of you tried out this quick guide to 4.8GHz?
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265398-Official-ASUS-P8P67-Series-Overclocking-Guide-and-Information
> 
> I'm still downloading updates and other BS, but then I'm dying to start toying with OC'ing this sandy bridge 2500k. I'm shocked by what people seem to be getting so easily. Last time I OC'd, 4.2GHz was my top. Can't imagine getting 4.8 in 10 minutes.


I used that one (well, this one, but it's the same article) in combination with this video:





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vBN-cBPs98[/ame[/URL]]

The guy in the blue shirt wrote the guide we linked.









I watched the video several times both before and after, and then I finally read that guide a few times. Afterward, I found it to be extremely easy to get 4.7GHz stable. I didn't try any other clocks; I just went straight to 4.7GHz.

After that, I went for 4.8GHz, and that was extremely easy too.

For both 4.7GHz and 4.8, all I had to do was copy all of the settings and only worry about changing like 2 or 3 of them. So Sandy Bridge overclocking has been simplified quite a bit (it's so easy, my grandma could do it)


----------



## TFL Replica

I'm going to see how far I can get on the stock cooler. Aftermarket cooler won't arrive for a while. I'm going to try 3.8GHz on stock voltage first.


----------



## turrican9

Update: When Offset, VID seems to vary a little bit when load. So nothing to worry about it seems. Readings are approx the same anyway.

So it may have nothing to do with rebooting after all.

However, the largest Vdroop (1.440v at lowest according to HWiNFO) seems to occur randomly. Blend has been going for 30 minutes now. And lowest until now is 1.448v. Usually it happens much earlier.

Or... I changed one thing since my last run.. Namely RAM from 1600 8-8-8-24-1t to 1600 9-9-9-24-2t. The last settings should stress the CPU less. Since the mem controller resides in CPU. So maybe that equals to lesser Vdroop..







Interesting...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14328595*
> When at AUTO it is 1.050v. I have tried all the way up to 1.200. Usually I try 1.150v.


Whoa! lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14328682*
> I'm going to see how far I can get on the stock cooler. Aftermarket cooler won't arrive for a while. I'm going to try 3.8GHz on stock voltage first.


Oh dude, that would actually be an awesome thing to document!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14328704*
> Update: When Offset, VID seems to vary a little bit when load. So nothing to worry about it seems. Readings are approx the same anyway.
> 
> So it may have nothing to do with rebooting after all.
> 
> However, the largest Vdroop (1.440v at lowest according to HWiNFO) seems to occur randomly. Blend has been going for 30 minutes now. And lowest until now is 1.448v. Usually it happens much earlier.


Hmm...

While idling, my VID in Core Temp is 1.3561V. Under load, it's 1.3611V.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Should I go with the P8P67 Pro REV 3.0, or 3.1?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14328796*
> Whoa! lol
> 
> While idling, my VID in Core Temp is 1.3561V. Under load, it's 1.3611V.


I edited the post. It has not dropped to 1.440 after I changed RAM timings. It always dropped to 1.440 before. Now it has not been lower than 1.448v.
Quote:


> Or... I changed one thing since my last run.. Namely RAM from 1600 8-8-8-24-1t to 1600 9-9-9-24-2t. The last settings should stress the CPU less. Since the mem controller resides in CPU. So maybe that equals to lesser Vdroop..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14328814*
> I edited the post


I hate cutting these things short, but I've been awake for 28 hours now and I think I just ran into a wall.

This has been an _extremely_ fun day.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14328848*
> I hate cutting these things short, but I've been awake for 28 hours now and I think I just ran into a wall.
> 
> This has been an _extremely_ fun day.


Get some sleep mate







The forum will not run Off while you're asleep. If so should happen, I will tie the forum with chains to a solid anchor for you


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus;14328798*
> Should I go with the P8P67 Pro REV 3.0, or 3.1?


3.1... I'm pretty sure all the 3.0s have been essentially recalled.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14328875*
> Get some sleep mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The forum will not run Off while you're asleep. If so should happen, I will tie the forum with chains to a solid anchor for you


It never has a chance to run off because it keeps getting stopped by an "internal server error".


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic;14328928*
> 3.1... I'm pretty sure all the 3.0s have been essentially recalled.


The 3.0s were the replacements for the ones that got recalled.

Not many people in the OCN community know about the 3.1s yet because they're very new.


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14328964*
> The 3.0s were the replacements for the ones that got recalled.
> 
> Not many people in the OCN community know about the 3.1s yet because they're very new.


Ah... I knew something got recalled. I picked up the 3.1.


----------



## TFL Replica

The only difference is that the 3.1 uses a cheaper USB 3 controller in an effort to save ASUS some money. There is no benefit for the customer and the NEC USB 3 controllers that are in rev 3.0 boards are quite superior. Bigger numbers are a great way to mislead the customer.


----------



## Subtly_in_your_Mind

I don't know if anyone else has had this happen to them, but I thought I'd enquire about it.

I had an ASUS P8Z68-V PRO motherboard that lasted for about 14 days before I got a VGA error and my motherboard had to be sent out to be replaced.

I'm expecting a replacement this week, but I'd just like to ask if there might be anything I'm doing wrong that caused this. I have an 850 watt PSU and the voltages were even across everything (I had a Crossfire setup, but I doubt pairing two HD Radeon 6950's had anything to do with it). Did I just get a bad board?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14329074*
> The only difference is that the 3.1 uses a cheaper USB 3 controller in an effort to save ASUS some money. There is no benefit for the customer and the NEC USB 3 controllers that are in rev 3.0 boards are quite superior. Bigger numbers are a great way to mislead the customer.


They are cheaper, but they are also supposed to be better and faster than the NEC controller. Any tests out yet?


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14329146*
> They are cheaper, but they are also supposed to be better and faster than the NEC controller. Any tests out yet?


Actually they're stated to be lesser or equal to the NEC controller with the old NEC drivers. The only benefit is the reduced cost. I'll post the link if I find it.


----------



## turrican9

Still fighting to get my 2600K 5GHz stable with HT-Off. I know my problem is not Vcore related. I've tried many combinations, including lowering CPU PLL to 1.700v (Made it more unstable). Also tried 1.7125v with no success. So now I'm trying 1.8250v to see where that brings me.

Getting a Sandybridge stable at 5GHz seems to be a hard task...

This is getting more and more interesting... I've found one FFT that causes problems. The 1344KB FFT always makes it error on one of the cores or BSOD. So now I've just consentrated in that one, and it fails fast, each time. I'm trying everything else than upping Vcore.

Update: The 1344KB FFT actually failed after equal short time even if I upped the Vcore by two notches! Very interesting!

Update2: The 1344KB FFT would not let me pass even if I upped the Vcore from 1.46v (Even though 1.46v seems to work for most other FFT's) up to 1.49v at 100 x50! I've downed multi to x49 now, and now it seems fine. So it will be very interesting when I try 102.1 x49 = 5GHz! I suspect this is somehow related to my CPU and the x50 multi.

Update 3: Quoted from the Sandy Stable Club:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14331060*
> I've actually isolated one very, very difficult FFT for my system. The 1344KB FFT. It seems my CPU will pass almost any FFT at 5GHz at 1.460v Vcore, LLC Ultra high, but not this particular FFT. I've even tried all the way up to 1.49v Vcore only running 1344KB - 1344KB and 6000MB. It fails fast. I've even tried 49 x102.1 to rule out the multi.
> 
> This is also true at lower speeds, this particular FFT requires alot of Vcore. If one run the usual Preset of 15 minutes per FFT, this particular FFT should show up after about 3 hours + according to my calculations.
> 
> I'm using this particular FFT at 4.9GHz right now and so far it seems good at about 1.432v Vcore. This is using + 0.060 Offset and LLC at Ultra high. + 0.040 Offset failed fast at this FFT. HT is disabled in all these tests. If it holds at 1.432v Vcore at 4.9GHz, and my CPU will not pass this particular FFT at 5GHz even at 1.48v - 1.49v (Fails fast on 1344KB - 1344KB but can go for hours on other FFT's with 1.46v Vcore.) Vcore, my CPU is not good for 5GHz.
> 
> I would like others to try this particular FFT, to see if they also find this one much harder than any other FFT. If so, we may have a breakthrough as to do a very fast test before starting the usual preset. This will save us ALOT of time!
> 
> Select Blend Custom and type in 1344 - 1344 and type in as much RAM as you can.
> 
> Update: It is doing fine at 1.432v Vcore and 4.9GHz. It will not at 5GHz and upto 1.49v Vcore. I've even tried about 4.995MHz, failed there also. So it seems I have some kind of wall close to 5GHz, but only with the 1344 - 1344 FFT.


----------



## Kand

Let it be known that I am finally on a quad core!

It's not complete yet, I'm to purchase a new case, get a proper heatsink and overclock it.
My VID I think is 1.161v.. Haven't really checked. And well.

The cable management? That's the best I can do without drilling holes through my 300, which, if I don't push through with my case upgrade, might be very likely. |3

PS. Sorry about the poor lighting, maybe I should purchase some translucent paper to put around my lamp.


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Wow... I just swapped over my old parts with the new Asus p867 pro and the 2500k processor, and I have Witcher 2 running at 60 FPS, on max setting, constantly without even over clocking. That's amazing. My EVGA 58 FTW with a 930 at 4.2GHz was only hitting 50 or so on average on the same game. I'm stunned. I've never seen a MOBO/CPU combo make this much difference without overclock. I can't imagine what this will do at 4.8.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic*


Wow... I just swapped over my old parts with the new Asus p867 pro and the 2500k processor, and I have Witcher 2 running at 60 FPS, on max setting, constantly without even over clocking. That's amazing. My EVGA 58 FTW with a 930 at 4.2GHz was only hitting 50 or so on average on the same game. I'm stunned. I've never seen a MOBO/CPU combo make this much difference without overclock. I can't imagine what this will do at 4.8.


Sandybridge was one of those 'big jumps' in technology you know


----------



## Ovlazek

Hi everyone. New to this thread so I'm not sure if this has come up yet but I DID do a search with no results.

I have the P67 Deluxe and am trying to make use of my Realtek LAN port. I believe I can set it to share my internet connection if I wire it up to another pc?

Has anyone here done this successfully, and if so, how do I go about doing it?

TIA


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ovlazek*


Hi everyone. New to this thread so I'm not sure if this has come up yet but I DID do a search with no results.

I have the P67 Deluxe and am trying to make use of my Realtek LAN port. I believe I can set it to share my internet connection if I wire it up to another pc?

Has anyone here done this successfully, and if so, how do I go about doing it?

TIA


Follow the instructions in this link for the Realtek LAN port: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/w...ection-Sharing


----------



## Ovlazek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14335175*
> Follow the instructions in this link for the Realtek LAN port: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-vista/Using-ICS-Internet-Connection-Sharing


Awesome. I was up and running in about 10 minutes. Thanks!
One question though. I notice that when the host computer is off, the second pc is disconnected. Is there a bypass possible so the host can be off?


----------



## Nethermir

i would imagine that there will be no sharing since the host is...off. what's the difference of ICS and using a router?


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovlazek;14335439*
> Awesome. I was up and running in about 10 minutes. Thanks!
> One question though. I notice that when the host computer is off, the second pc is disconnected. Is there a bypass possible so the host can be off?


It's the same with a router. If you turn that off all its clients are disconnected only the difference is that one does not usually turn a router off. If you want your Internet shared at all times then whatever you use for the job must be always on whether it's a fully blown PC or a small consumer grade router.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14335556*
> i would imagine that there will be no sharing since the host is...off. what's the difference of ICS and using a router?


While ICS is just a quick and easy solution that cover a wide variety of connection sharing scenarios having a PC do the job of a router (with software such as Untangle) in general allows for much more control, functionality and performance. Not everyone needs that level of power (unless you have a lot of clients).


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14317798*
> *PanagiotisT:*
> Anyway, here's why I'm posting today: my system is finally stable at 4.8GHz! My maximum temp was 72°C, and I think the maximum voltage was 1.392V (it might have been 1.400V) while it seemed to hover mostly at 1.384V while sometimes dipping down to 1.376V.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are my settings:
> 
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
> *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> *By All Cores:* 48
> *Internal PLL Voltage:* Enabled
> *Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
> *DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-29-1T
> *EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
> *Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
> *Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Phase Control:* Extreme
> *Duty Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 140%
> *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> *CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
> *DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000
> *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> *VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
> *CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
> *PCH Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
> *Active Processor Cores:* All
> *Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
> *Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
> *Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *CPU C1E:* Enabled
> *CPU C3 Report:* Auto
> *CPU C6 Report:* Auto
> 
> 
> I love it: 4.8GHz with air cooling.


Gratulations !

I am finnally stable with my settings, too. Running in 4,6Ghz Prime Stable. After 14,5h without any error in blend I stopped testing. Then I installed my 2 new Fans onto my H80 (2x enermax vegas trio 120mm) and tested another 5 hours without errors. It is running comfortably silent below 72° at a vcore of 1,376V, sometimes going slightly over 1,38V.

I will post screenshots of the 14h+ test later.

My settings are the same like quoted from TwoCables (Thx again for helping), except:

VCCIO: 1,15V
Offset Voltage: 0,020V
and, of course, Multiplier: 46

Perhaps I will run for 4,8Ghz soon.


----------



## Colin_MC

Hello
Is it worth it to update "bios" from 15.02 to 18.50? Theoretically it should improve stability...


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14332511*
> Sandybridge was one of those 'big jumps' in technology you know


It does appear so! I was worried about how gaming was going to work on the P67 given all this talk about "bottlenecking" in the GPU. I'm definitely not seeing anything even close to that. I'm pretty shocked to see a stock processor out performing one OC'd to 4.2 GHz. Also, I'm getting cooler temps with the 2500k at stock (28-30 degrees) than I was seeing with the i930 at 2.8 GHz stock (31-34).


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14329576*
> Still fighting to get my 2600K 5GHz stable with HT-Off. I know my problem is not Vcore related. I've tried many combinations, including lowering CPU PLL to 1.700v (Made it more unstable). Also tried 1.7125v with no success. So now I'm trying 1.8250v to see where that brings me.
> 
> Getting a Sandybridge stable at 5GHz seems to be a hard task...
> 
> This is getting more and more interesting... I've found one FFT that causes problems. The 1344KB FFT always makes it error on one of the cores or BSOD. So now I've just consentrated in that one, and it fails fast, each time. I'm trying everything else than upping Vcore.
> 
> Update: The 1344KB FFT actually failed after equal short time even if I upped the Vcore by two notches! Very interesting!
> 
> Update2: The 1344KB FFT would not let me pass even if I upped the Vcore from 1.46v (Even though 1.46v seems to work for most other FFT's) up to 1.49v at 100 x50! I've downed multi to x49 now, and now it seems fine. So it will be very interesting when I try 102.1 x49 = 5GHz! I suspect this is somehow related to my CPU and the x50 multi.
> 
> Update 3: Quoted from the Sandy Stable Club:


Did you manage to get this stable in the end?

Also didnt JJ say that out of 100 chips only 10 can do the jump to 5Ghz?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14337796*
> Did you manage to get this stable in the end?
> 
> Also didnt JJ say that out of 100 chips only 10 can do the jump to 5Ghz?


I hit a wall at 5GHz. Turns out it need a big jump in Vcore to pass some larger FFT's. So I never got it stable.

I have backed down to 4.9GHz now, and are close to finishing a 12 hours + run.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14329074*
> The only difference is that the 3.1 uses a cheaper USB 3 controller in an effort to save ASUS some money. There is no benefit for the customer and the NEC USB 3 controllers that are in rev 3.0 boards are quite superior. Bigger numbers are a great way to mislead the customer.


The 3.0 has a $20 off combo with the 2600K. Would it be worth me spending the extra $20 on 3.1?


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14337949*
> I hit a wall at 5GHz. Turns out it need a big jump in Vcore to pass some larger FFT's. So I never got it stable.
> 
> I have backed down to 4.9GHz now, and are close to finishing a 12 hours + run.


4.9Ghz is still a great clock! What kind of temps are you getting now with the lapped cooler?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden;14339121*
> 4.9Ghz is still a great clock! What kind of temps are you getting now with the lapped cooler?


Here, I've just submitted in the Sandy Stable Club


----------



## turrican9

I've found two 'golden' FFT's, at least for my CPU. It seems if it passes the 1344KB and the 1792KB FFT, it will pass every other FFT. So far it seems the 1792KB FFT is even more sensitive than the 1344KB FFT.

So by running each of these two for 15 minutes and using 6000MB I have found I am certain to be 12 hours + stable.

Update: I've just broken the 5GHz 'wall' with regards to the 1344KB FFT. It seems it needed Offset + 0.120. I've only tried + 0.100 in my last attempts. This gives a load Voltage of 1.488 - 1.504 with this particular FFT. So If I want, I can make a 12 hours + 5GHz stable run. However, I must tolerate temps in the 85c range... Not worth it, when I can manage 4.9GHz at Offset + 0.070


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


Gratulations !

I am finnally stable with my settings, too. Running in 4,6Ghz Prime Stable. After 14,5h without any error in blend I stopped testing. Then I installed my 2 new Fans onto my H80 (2x enermax vegas trio 120mm) and tested another 5 hours without errors. It is running comfortably silent below 72Â° at a vcore of 1,376V, sometimes going slightly over 1,38V.

I will post screenshots of the 14h+ test later.

My settings are the same like quoted from TwoCables (Thx again for helping), except:

VCCIO: 1,15V
Offset Voltage: 0,020V
and, of course, Multiplier: 46

Perhaps I will run for 4,8Ghz soon.


Thank you, Slimex! Of course, you're welcome too.









Anyway, I say go for 4.8GHz! You might even be able to do it with that core voltage!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


The 3.0 has a $20 off combo with the 2600K. Would it be worth me spending the extra $20 on 3.1?


Nope. The 3.1 revision is slightly inferior to the 3.0 revision.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Nope. The 3.1 revision is slightly inferior to the 3.0 revision.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*













Quote:



Originally Posted by *TFL Replica*


The only difference is that the 3.1 uses a cheaper USB 3 controller in an effort to save ASUS some money. There is no benefit for the customer and the NEC USB 3 controllers that are in rev 3.0 boards are quite superior. Bigger numbers are a great way to mislead the customer.


Yeah, I know it's not the kind of proof you were looking for, but this is what I am going by. I doubt he would make that up.

So, cheaper USB 3 controller = slightly inferior board.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Yeah, I know it's not the kind of proof you were looking for, but this is what I am going by. I doubt he would make that up.

So, cheaper USB 3 controller = slightly inferior board.


From what I've read over the articles they were actually able to make the same thing for cheaper. Which means NEC is overpriced and had little competition. I think what we really need is benchmarks for the controllers before anyone can actually say anything about them.


----------



## turrican9

btw: Someone mentioned the Rev. 3.1 has black PCB, whereas Rev. 3.0 P8P67 PRO has brown PCB.


----------



## The Viper

just realized that my board allows me to boot to BIOS with any extreme OC settings (at least in regards to CPU multi)...ie i booted to BIOS with a multi of 200x.

This is fantastic! It will make OCing so much easier...on my last mobo (gigabyte) you had to wait for the board to reset, if at all or clear CMOS and rinse and repeat.

On a side note, heres a really stupid question...does anyone know how to make AI Suite II not startup with windows...there doesnt appear to be any startup associated with it that can be unchecked in the startup options


----------



## eiji-gravion

This video shows differences between some usb controllers.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Viper*


just realized that my board allows me to boot to BIOS with any extreme OC settings (at least in regards to CPU multi)...ie i booted to BIOS with a multi of 200x.

This is fantastic! It will make OCing so much easier...on my last mobo (gigabyte) you had to wait for the board to reset, if at all or clear CMOS and rinse and repeat.

On a side note, heres a really stupid question...does anyone know how to make AI Suite II not startup with windows...there doesnt appear to be any startup associated with it that can be unchecked in the startup options


Unfortunately, AI Suite II must be uninstalled for it to stop starting with Windows.

I tried disabling the new services for it in Services.msc, but instead I get an error when Windows starts.

I even checked the Registry keys below, but there was nothing new:

Code:


Code:


HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\\SOFTWARE\\Wow6432Node\\Microsoft\\Windows\\CurrentVersion\\Run

Code:


Code:


HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\\SOFTWARE\\Microsoft\\Windows\\CurrentVersion\\Run

Code:


Code:


HKEY_CURRENT_USER\\Software\\Microsoft\\Windows\\CurrentVersion\\Run

So the only solution I could come up with was getting rid of it. To be honest, I don't miss it one bit.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eiji-gravion*


This video shows differences between some usb controllers.


Thanks for showing that video. Hopefully we see more benchmarks in the future. But according to that video, the 3.1 looks like a good choice.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


Thanks for showing that video. Hopefully we see more benchmarks in the future. But according to that video, the 3.1 looks like a good choice.


It's not that it's a bad choice, but it sounds like if USB 3 is a big deal to someone, then they may want to get the 3.0 board instead.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


It's not that it's a bad choice, but it sounds like if USB 3 is a big deal to someone, then they may want to get the 3.0 board instead.


Why would you say that if the test he did showed Asmedia to be faster?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


Why would you say that if the test he did showed Asmedia to be faster?


Because I was stupid and didn't watch the video.


----------



## The Viper

TwoCables: yeah I was afraid of that...only thing i really needed it for was to show Internal PLL disabled in windows.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Viper*


TwoCables: yeah I was afraid of that...only thing i really needed it for was to show Internal PLL disabled in windows.


Why? Don't you trust what the UEFI says?


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Why? Don't you trust what the UEFI says?










lol, no its not that...for proof of course


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Viper*


lol, no its not that...for proof of course


Proof for you, or proof for others? I mean if it's for others, then insert a USB flash drive and then press F12 in the UEFI to take a screenshot.


----------



## turrican9

I've just booted into Windows with Internal PLL Overvoltage disabled all the way up to x52... Not tried higher yet... Never thought it would boot Windows with it disabled at these higher multipliers...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I've just booted into Windows with Internal PLL Overvoltage disabled all the way up to x52... Not tried higher yet... Never thought it would boot Windows with it disabled at these higher multipliers...


Whoa! I thought the same thing!!

Go P8P67 Pro, go!


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14343451*
> Proof for you, or proof for others? I mean if it's for others, then insert a USB flash drive and then press F12 in the UEFI to take a screenshot.


for others, taking a bios screenshot wont prove that you booted into windows


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Viper;14343705*
> for others, taking a bios screenshot wont prove that you booted into windows












Good point.


----------



## turrican9

4.8GHz with HT on seems to need about 1.40v - 1.416v on full load for my 2600K... However, when testing with the 1344KB FFT now, it seems to get away with only about 1.344v - 1.360v at 4.7GHz and HT-On... Must say... nice CPU...

Also the fact that it will start at x56 multi (Did not manage to boot windows though. And not tried higher than x56). And that I've tested it with internal PLL Overvoltage disabled and booted Windows upto x52... Not tried higher yet...


----------



## tlovhak

I tried today to OC my 2500k with the p8p67 pro with 1.275 and 1.300 vcore. Both prime95 test failed after 20 min. Now trying with 1.330 vcore











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## turrican9

My previous 2500K, which I traded in this 2600K, needed ~1.368v Vcore for 4.5GHz. And it took closer to 1.450v Vcore for 4.7GHz. They all differ in how much Vcore they need. It's the luck of the draw


----------



## tlovhak

1.330 Seem to work fine for now. What AI setting do you recommended?

I set duty and Phase to extrem , the rest on auto. I'am not sure what are the ideal setting for a 4.5ghz OC


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlovhak;14344295*
> 1.330 Seem to work fine for now. What AI setting do you recommended?
> 
> I set duty and Phase to extrem , the rest on auto. I'am not sure what are the ideal setting for a 4.5ghz OC


I guess TwoCables will give you a template


----------



## TwoCables

I just figured out how to make AI Suite II stop starting with Windows (I had to do some careful Googling)! After following these instructions, it will always be on *your* terms unless you undo these changes. So if you have AI Suite II installed but you don't want it to start with Windows anymore, then follow these instructions:

Open Task Scheduler (in Vista and 7, open the Start Menu, type *task scheduler*, and then press Enter)
On the far left side, expand *Task Scheduler Library*
Select "ASUS"
In the middle, you'll see two Tasks named *"*ASUS AI Suite II Execute", and "ASUS DigiVRM Help"
Right-click them and choose "Disable" (you can select both by holding down either Shift or Ctrl and left clicking them)
Close Task Manager
So now AI Suite II will no longer start with Windows! The best part is that AI Suite II will *not* automatically undo these changes any time you open it, so now it's just like any _other_ program. You can also Shut Down or Restart while AI Suite II is running, and it will still *not* cause it to start with Windows.









However, there are still a bunch of processes running in the background! Fortunately, you can easily disable all of them and never have to worry about it! Here's how:

Open Services.msc (open the Start Menu, type *services.msc*, and then press Enter)
Look for the following services:
ASUS Com Service
ASUS HM Com Service
ASUS System Control Service

Change both "ASUS Com Service" and "ASUS HM Com Service" to *Manual*.
Change "ASUS System Control Service" to *Disabed*.
So now when you open AI Suite II, it will still be able to start both "ASUS Com Service" and "ASUS HM Com Service" (both of these start up a few other processes at the same time). I mean, if these were set to Disabled, then you'd get an error.









*Note:* every single process that gets started by these two services will continue running even after completely exiting AI Suite II. Fortunately, they do *not* automatically start with Windows! So if you wanted to be in _complete_ control and always stop them right after exiting AI Suite II, then go into Services.msc, right-click the two services we set to "manual", and then choose "Stop".







Although, you'll have to remember to do this every single time if you are a person like me who likes to keep everything under control. hehe


----------



## tlovhak

Guess I have some reading to do.

Still stable after one and a half hour


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlovhak;14344660*
> Guess I have some reading to do.
> 
> Still stable after one and a half hour


Nice graphics card. hehe









Anyway, I don't know how it will do, but let's see how your i5-2500K does with my 4.8GHz settings:

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* use the rated speed for your memory

*DRAM Timing Control:* use the rated timings for your memory

*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
*DRAM Voltage:* use the rated voltage for your memory

*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto

*Note:* that Offset Voltage gets me a Core Voltage in CPU-Z of about 1.384V - 1.392V while under full load in Prime95's Blend. So be cautious and adjust accordingly.


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

Maybe I should quote your template in the second post of this Club? It is a fine example of what settings you used for your 4.8GHz overclock, and others could easily find this and try in their systems.

Update: it's done...


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I just figured out how to make AI Suite II stop starting with Windows!


Very nice my friend, good job!


----------



## tlovhak

Thanks twocables, very interesting settings. I will definitely try it out. But for 4.5ghz do you recommend to do some adjustement?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*TwoCables*

Maybe I should quote your template in the second post of this Club? It is a fine example of what settings you used for your 4.8GHz overclock, and others could easily find this and try in their systems.

Update: it's done...


Oh no way! Haha you are too much, man. Thank you!









It's perfect, too! hehe That's awesome.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Viper*


Very nice my friend, good job!


You kind of inspired me to do it too! I mean, I wanted to find out if it showed the current setting for Internal PLL Overvoltage, so I decided that I would reinstall AI Suite II and take a look. However, I didn't want to have it starting with Windows again, so I decided to do some Googling to find out how to make it stop! I decided that if I could find out how to control whether or not it starts with Windows, then I would install it.

So obviously I learned how to do it, I installed AI Suite II, and then I took it much further by doing a bunch of testing to learn all of that other stuff in addition to the Task Scheduler tweaks!









Thanks to that, I am now able to leave AI Suite II installed without worrying about it.

Oh by the way: if AI Suite II shows the current setting for Internal PLL Overvoltage, then can you show it to me? I can't find it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlovhak*


Thanks twocables, very interesting settings. I will definitely try it out. But for 4.5ghz do you recommend to do some adjustement?


Aw come on! Try 48x.


----------



## tlovhak

I will try when My 2500k run 4.5 24/7 stable ;p. I might re-install my nh-d14 (I'am getting 60-63-66-60 @ 4.5ghz ) is 4.5 to 4.8 a BIG jump in heat ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *tlovhak*   I will try when My 2500k run 4.5 24/7 stable ;p. I might re-install my nh-d14 (I'am getting 60-63-66-60 @ 4.5ghz ) is 4.5 to 4.8 a BIG jump in heat ?  
I don't know; I went straight to 4.7GHz. The reason why I did that is because the video below shows the i7-2600K being overclocked straight from stock to 4.8GHz. So I figured that since the i5-2500K is 100MHz slower, I would just shoot for 4.7GHz instead of 4.8.

However, achieving 4.7GHz was too easy, so that's why I went for 4.8GHz. Although, that was almost too easy too, so I'm considering trying 4.9 now.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlovhak*


I will try when My 2500k run 4.5 24/7 stable ;p. I might re-install my nh-d14 (I'am getting 60-63-66-60 @ 4.5ghz ) is 4.5 to 4.8 a BIG jump in heat ?


Those temps are fine. If you have to up Vcore very much, that will add most of the heat.

I've found that if I can pass the 1344KB FFT and 1792KB FFT I will pass all others and be 12 hours + stable in my system. So I shorten down my testing by first running Blend using 1344KB -1344KB and 6000 MB for 15 minutes, if it passes I run 1792KB - 1792KB and 6000MB for 15 minutes. And if that passes I am certain it will handle a 12 hour + run using all FFT's at the 15 minute per FFT preset and 6000MB mem.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14344733*
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
> *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> *By All Cores:* 48
> *Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
> *Memory Frequency:* use the rated speed for your memory
> 
> *DRAM Timing Control:* use the rated timings for your memory
> 
> *EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
> *Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
> *Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Phase Control:* Extreme
> *Duty Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 140%
> *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> *CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
> *DRAM Voltage:* use the rated voltage for your memory
> 
> *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> *VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
> *CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
> *PCH Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
> *Active Processor Cores:* All
> *Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
> *Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
> *Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *CPU C1E:* Enabled
> *CPU C3 Report:* Auto
> *CPU C6 Report:* Auto
> 
> *Note:* that Offset Voltage gets me a Core Voltage in CPU-Z of about 1.384V - 1.392V while under full load in Prime95's Blend. So be cautious and adjust accordingly.


Funny enough, those are exactly the settings I've been using. +0.04v offset yields 1.400 to 1.408v for me. My chip's VID at 4.8GHz is 1.3661v, so vdroop is approximately 0.002v on average with Ultra High LLC. Stable as a rock.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmeeks;14346535*
> Funny enough, those are exactly the settings I've been using. +0.04v offset yields 1.400 to 1.408v for me. Stable as a rock.


Haha yeah! I love it!!

This is what I mean when I say that Sandy Bridge overclocking is extremely simple. At this point, I only care about 2 settings: the multiplier and the Offset Voltage. I might consider it to be 3 settings if I include the VCCIO voltage, and maybe 4 if I want to start playing with the BCLK for fine tuning! So I actually wish I could hide the rest of those settings because to me, most of them are "set it and forget it" type of settings.

It reminds me of overclocking with the EVGA 680i SLI, only it's a billion times better.


----------



## tlovhak

Erm. I'am getting way to much vcore with Load-Line Calibration AT Ultra high and to much V-drop with medium. for (4.5ghz) MIght set it at high and had a lot of vccio voltage I guess.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlovhak;14346645*
> Erm. I'am getting way to much vcore with Load-Line Calibration AT Ultra high and to much V-drop with medium. for (4.5ghz) MIght set it at high and had a lot of vccio voltage I guess.


What core voltages are you getting?


----------



## tlovhak

1.390 - 1.420 at ultra high

Edit:

I'am trying to get a 1.32-1.34 vcore using offset


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14346592*
> At this point, I only care about 2 settings: the multiplier and the Offset Voltage. I might consider it to be 3 settings if I include the VCCIO voltage, and maybe 4 if I want to start playing with the BCLK for fine tuning!


I'm still a little confused regarding what VCCIO voltage actually does. It doesn't seem to make any difference if I run it at 1.05 or 1.15!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlovhak;14346932*
> 1.390 - 1.420 at ultra high
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I'am trying to get a 1.32-1.34 vcore using offset


For 4.8GHz?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmeeks;14347073*
> I'm still a little confused regarding what VCCIO voltage actually does. It doesn't seem to make any difference if I run it at 1.05 or 1.15!


Many are finding that they can use a slightly lower vCore maintain stability by increasing the VCCIO a little.


----------



## tlovhak

No twocables , I'am trying 4.5 for now


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlovhak;14347433*
> No twocables , I'am trying 4.5 for now


You never confirmed that. Your last post to me was asking me if 4.5GHz to 4.8GHz is a big jump in heat. Just try 4.8GHz with this vCore and see what happens. I wouldn't recommend it if it were dangerous. After all, this makes me responsible for what happens.

If you don't feel comfortable with that, then decrease the Offset Voltage first by about +0.005V (one increment down).

Seriously: with that cooler and with that CPU, you have no reason not to try 4.7 or 4.8GHz. Your temps are extremely safe as well. If they weren't, all of us would be on your case about it.









I mean, this isn't like overclocking a Core2: just go for it!


----------



## tlovhak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14347521*
> You never confirmed that. Your last post to me was asking me if 4.5GHz to 4.8GHz is a big jump in heat. Just try 4.8GHz with this vCore and see what happens. I wouldn't recommend it if it were dangerous. After all, this makes me responsible for what happens.
> 
> If you don't feel comfortable with that, then decrease the Offset Voltage first by about +0.005V (one increment down).
> 
> Seriously: with that cooler and with that CPU, you have no reason not to try 4.7 or 4.8GHz. Your temps are extremely safe as well. If they weren't, all of us would be on your case about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean, this isn't like overclocking a Core2: just go for it!


Alright I'am at 4.8 with your settings now.

Running at 1.400 - 1408 vcore on prime95 , don't know if my chip will handle it ;p



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlovhak;14347635*
> Alright I'am at 4.8 with your settings now.
> 
> Running at 1.400 - 1408 vcore on prime95 , don't know if my chip will handle it ;p


Ooo.









1.400 to 1.408V is very safe. The 24/7 limit is approximately 1.425V, and the maximum is about 1.525V. Many don't care about the 1.425V and go beyond it without any problems.

However, keep decreasing the Offset Voltage in 0.005V increments until it shows obvious instability. After that, bump it back up 2 increments and test it.


----------



## tlovhak

What about my temp, is it normal to hit a max 77 with the noctua O_+. I have 1 very hot core the rest seem fine

Weird look at the temp difference: 65 68 70 51


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlovhak;14347726*
> What about my temp, is it normal to hit a max 77 with the noctua O_+. I have 1 very hot core the rest seem fine
> 
> Weird look at the temp difference: 65 68 70 51


It looks like Worker #4 in Prime95 stopped working (these settings are not stable).

Anyway, 77 seems a little high for that cooler (it's just about the best air cooler money can buy). It could be a loose installation, a lack of thermal paste, or a hot room where the computer is.


----------



## tlovhak

Yeah worker 4 stopped. Alright enough of this time to sleep.

Thanks you twocables.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlovhak;14347914*
> Yeah worker 4 stopped. Alright enough of this time to sleep.
> 
> Thanks you twocables.


You're welcome!

We'll get there. I promise. Maybe 4.7GHz, maybe 4.8GHz: but I can see now that we don't have to settle for 4.5 or 4.6GHz.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14340956*
> Thank you, Slimex! Of course, you're welcome too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I say go for 4.8GHz! You might even be able to do it with that core voltage!


Unfortunately not at that vcore, I tried it. I do not want temps above 71-72°C for 24/7 use, thats why I did not try to raise voltage for 4,8Ghz now. And my cooling setup is not able to handle my desired temps with more voltage.


----------



## wermad

I'm still having the sleep issue with the new mb. This one is a lot more stable than the first one I got. This only happens with oc over 4.5 and with any oc w/ pll overvoltage enabled. I have it disabled right now and my idle goes up to 350w from 225w. I'm also running a new cpu (old was a 2500k).

I'm wondering if my ram could be causing this, ??? I've always had good results with Patriot but this model is not in the Asus QVL. Would it worth it to change it? I typically don't oc my ram but I hate having to power off the system when it does not want to wake from sleep.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14348338*
> Unfortunately not at that vcore, I tried it. I do not want temps above 71-72°C for 24/7 use, thats why I did not try to raise voltage for 4,8Ghz now. And my cooling setup is not able to handle my desired temps with more voltage.


With 4.8GHz @ about 1.392V, I get a maximum of 72°C during Prime95's Blend test. That's actually an extremely *safe* temperature. The Tj. Max for these CPUs is 98°C, and that is when the CPU would either throttle itself down or turn itself off to prevent any possible damaged caused by that much heat.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14348919*
> I'm still having the sleep issue with the new mb. This one is a lot more stable than the first one I got. This only happens with oc over 4.5 and with any oc w/ pll overvoltage enabled. I have it disabled right now and my idle goes up to 350w from 225w. I'm also running a new cpu (old was a 2500k).


Internal PLL Overvoltage should be left disabled unless you're trying for 48x or more and can't boot, but have tried everything else:

J.J. at ASUS (their Senior Technical Marketing Specialist) says this about Internal PLL Overvoltage:
Quote:


> This option is specifically designed for D2/Retail Parts and allowing for higher multi overclocks especially when at or exceeding 48x. Additionally, this option can be used if you do not have it enabled and cannot boot with a higher multiplier. It is advised to try this option *after* you have tried all other standard options. This option is *not* for increasing stability of an OC that can already post and boot into an OS.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14348919*
> I'm wondering if my ram could be causing this, ??? I've always had good results with Patriot but this model is not in the Asus QVL. Would it worth it to change it? I typically don't oc my ram but I hate having to power off the system when it does not want to wake from sleep.


What voltage is your memory rated for?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14349058*
> Internal PLL Overvoltage should be left disabled unless you're trying for 48x or more and can't boot, but have tried everything else:
> 
> J.J. at ASUS (their Senior Technical Marketing Specialist) says this about Internal PLL Overvoltage:
> 
> What voltage is your memory rated for?


If I disable it, my idle is hovers over 100w more watts









I have this ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220538

When I got the my mb, newegg suggested this kit,







. For whatever reason, they have taken the "Designed for P67" and put p55 on it now







. In auto, it runs on 1.5v.

Thanks Two










edit: this one is on the QVL, I might pick this up: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14349101*
> If I disable it, my idle is hovers over 100w more watts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have this ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220538
> 
> When I got the my mb, newegg suggested this kit,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . For whatever reason, they have taken the "Designed for P67" and put p55 on it now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . In auto, it runs on 1.5v.
> 
> Thanks Two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: this one is on the QVL, I might pick this up: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303


The memory you have is rated for 1.65V. Get memory that's rated for 1.5V; it is for the safety of the CPU, so it's very important.

That G.SKILL memory is rated for 1.65V too, so I don't know why it's on the QVL.

*Edit:* Here's a set of Ripjaws X for $49.99 shipped: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231439

Anyway, what are the rest of your settings?


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14349058*
> With 4.8GHz @ about 1.392V, I get a maximum of 72°C during Prime95's Blend test. That's actually an extremely *safe* temperature. The Tj. Max for these CPUs is 98°C, and that is when the CPU would either throttle itself down or turn itself off to prevent any possible damaged caused by that much heat.


Do you remember the screenshots of my temperature curve showing, that turbo mode was switched off automatically a few times during tests while temps were at 74-75°C ? Core temps were at max 76°C after this test (read from core temp). I am still afraid of this phenomenon coming back when I hit higher temps.

I prefer silent setups and my 2x 120mm Enermax Vegas Trio (1700rpm) are a good compromise between the very silent but less powerful bequiet SilentWings USC (1500rpm) I used before and the very powerful but loud Corsair Stock fans (2600rpm).

When I get to full rpm with the vegas fans, I can keep my temp down at 70°C clocked at 4,6Ghz and vcore of 1,376V. 70°C is almost 5°C away from my mysterios downclocking phenomenon temp, so I was for now pretty satisfied with that. If I raised my vcore further, this would result in higher temps.

Would be better to find a solution for this downclocking thing first.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14349176*
> Do you remember the screenshots of my temperature curve showing, that turbo mode was switched off automatically a few times during tests while temps were at 74-75°C ? Core temps were at max 76°C after this test (read from core temp). I am still afraid of this phenomenon coming back when I hit higher temps.
> 
> I prefer silent setups and my 2x 120mm Enermax Vegas Trio (1700rpm) are a good compromise between the very silent but less powerful bequiet SilentWings USC (1500rpm) I used before and the very powerful but loud Corsair Stock fans (2600rpm).
> 
> When I get to full rpm with the vegas fans, I can keep my temp down at 70°C clocked at 4,6Ghz and vcore of 1,376V. 70°C is almost 5°C away from my mysterios downclocking phenomenon temp, so I was for now pretty satisfied with that. If I raised my vcore further, this would result in higher temps.
> 
> Would be better to find a solution for this downclocking thing first.


Hmm.... now that I got my temps up a bit, maybe I should run the AVX version of IBT to max my temps to see if this happens to me.

Although, I still wonder if there's some setting somewhere in your UEFI that's making it do this.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14349139*
> The memory you have is rated for 1.65V. Get memory that's rated for 1.5V; it is for the safety of the CPU, so it's very important.
> 
> That G.SKILL memory is rated for 1.65V too, so I don't know why it's on the QVL.
> 
> *Edit:* Here's a set of Ripjaws X for $49.99 shipped: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231439
> 
> Anyway, what are the rest of your settings?


Would this be better? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231430

For benchmarks, I run 48x 1.355v, pll overvoltage enabled (stability or crashes), speedstep off.

When I game, I have it @ 45x w/ 1.315v, pll disabled, speedstep on.

Right now I'm running everything in auto and 40x w/ pll overvoltage in auto and my idle is in the low 200w range, if I disable it, it will jump 75-100w. At this setting, I have no issues w/ sleep.

edit: which one is better, the one I linked or the one you did? Thanks


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14349215*
> Would this be better? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231430


Absolutely. It's even better than what I recommended because it's faster at basically the same timings!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14349215*
> For benchmarks, I run 48x 1.355v, pll overvoltage enabled (stability or crashes), speedstep off.
> 
> When I game, I have it @ 45x w/ 1.315v, pll disabled, speedstep on.
> 
> Right now I'm running everything in auto and 40x w/ pll overvoltage in auto and my idle is in the low 200w range, if I disable it, it will jump 75-100w. At this setting, I have no issues w/ sleep.
> 
> edit: I'll get the one you suggested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks again!


Well, I'm still curious to know what all of your settings are.


----------



## slimex

Could it be, that my downclocking(turbo off) issues have to do with my memory setup ?

I am using this modules:
http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=370

They are not listed on the ASUS QVL for this board, but the board is listed on the product page on the ram, so I was confident, that this would be a good match.

Is it possible, that my RAM voltage of 1,65V can cause such problems ? Furthermore this is a 2x4GB kit, which is less optimal than a 2x2GB kit for overclocking, I have heard.


----------



## TwoCables

I don't know about 2 x 4GB vs. 2 x 2GB, however I am indeed very curious about why they're claiming a 1.65V kit is designed for this.

For example, this is taken straight from the P8P67 EVO's manual:

_"According to Intel spec, DIMM voltage below 1.65V is recommended to protect the CPU."_


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14349259*
> Absolutely. It's even better than what I recommended because it's faster at basically the same timings!
> 
> Well, I'm still curious to know what all of your settings are.


@ 4.8+
By per core
Pll overrvoltage: enabled
LL calibration: ultra high
Phase and duty: extreme
speedstep: disabled
voltage: 1.355+
Everything else in auto.

I used the xs.org 2500k oc guide as a template for both my old 2500k and my new 2600k.

Im going to pickup the G.Skill ram, thanks again.


----------



## TwoCables

What is your VCCIO voltage right now? I just learned something that might help save you money.

Thanks to a recent post in another thread by pioneerisloud, I just learned that the DRAM Voltage and the VCCIO voltage should not be more than 0.50V apart from each other and that the default VCCIO voltage is 1.000V. So if your DRAM Voltage is 1.65V right now, then your VCCIO should be increased to at least 1.15000V, or perhaps even 1.15625V.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14349405*
> I don't know about 2 x 4GB vs. 2 x 2GB, however I am indeed very curious about why they're claiming a 1.65V kit is designed for this.
> 
> For example, this is taken straight from the P8P67 EVO's manual:
> 
> _"According to Intel spec, DIMM voltage below 1.65V is recommended to protect the CPU."_


Exactly the same is printed in my P8Z68 Deluxe manual. But there actually is room for interpretation. 1,649V would also be below 1,65V and 1,65V would therefore only be 0,001V higher than a recommended setting









Ok, I should stop splitting hairs







, I have heard and read very often, that 1,65V could lower OC potential and is the upper limit the cpu can cope with without taking damage over time.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14349587*
> Exactly the same is printed in my P8Z68 Deluxe manual. But there actually is room for interpretation. 1,649V would also be below 1,65V and 1,65V would therefore only be 0,001V higher than a recommended setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I should stop splitting hairs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I have heard and read very often, that 1,65V could lower OC potential and is the upper limit the cpu can cope with without taking damage over time.


Yeah, but thanks to a recent post in another thread by pioneerisloud, I just learned that the DRAM Voltage and the VCCIO voltage should not be more than 0.50V apart from each other and that the default VCCIO voltage is 1.000V. So if your DRAM Voltage is 1.65V right now, then your VCCIO should be increased to at least 1.15000V, or perhaps even 1.15625V.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14349617*
> Yeah, but thanks to a recent post in another thread by pioneerisloud, I just learned that the DRAM Voltage and the VCCIO voltage should not be more than 0.50V apart from each other and that the default VCCIO voltage is 1.000V. So if your DRAM Voltage is 1.65V right now, then your VCCIO should be increased to at least 1.15000V, or perhaps even 1.15625V.


Oh, thats interesting. My VCCIO Voltage is 1,15V right now, default value shown in uefi, while auto was set, was 1,05, could be that it was 1,047 or something like that.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14349634*
> Oh, thats interesting. My VCCIO Voltage is 1,15V right now, default value shown in uefi, while auto was set, was 1,05, could be that it was 1,047 or something like that.


Ah ha. So then your wiggle room is between 1.15000V and 1.20000V.







Increasing it up from 1.15V without exceeding 1.2V may help increase the stability and perhaps even allow you to use a lower core voltage.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14349644*
> Ah ha. So then your wiggle room is between 1.15000V and 1.20000V.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Increasing it up from 1.15V without exceeding 1.2V may help increase the stability and perhaps even allow you to use a lower core voltage.


Ah, I should try this next time I test. Are the 1,2V suitable for 24/7 use ?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14349652*
> Ah, I should try this next time I test. Are the 1,2V suitable for 24/7 use ?


I've been running 1.20v VCCIO and 1.70v VDIMM since the very first B3 boards came available in late March. No issues reported yet. I would try increasing it SLOWLY. You might also need a tad more vcore, it just depends on what voltages YOUR chip wants to get stable.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14349680*
> I've been running 1.20v VCCIO and 1.70v VDIMM since the very first B3 boards came available in late March. No issues reported yet. I would try increasing it SLOWLY. You might also need a tad more vcore, it just depends on what voltages YOUR chip wants to get stable.


Hey, this could be the way getting my stable clock up with same voltage (1,376V). I think I will try rising VCCIO in little steps and have another try with 4,8 Ghz. As described before, I'd like to keep the system as silent as possible, so keeping vcore down is a main goal for me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14349728*
> Hey, this could be the way getting my stable clock up with same voltage (1,376V). I think I will try rising VCCIO in little steps and have another try with 4,8 Ghz. As described before, I'd like to keep the system as silent as possible, so keeping vcore down is a main goal for me.


You might just also have a chip like mine, that's extremely vcore hungry. It all depends on your chip.









Mine takes 1.35v for 4.6GHz. 1.375v for 4.7. And 1.44v for 4.8GHz. As you can see, its quite the large jump in vcore needed. I can pass stable at 5.0GHz, with 1.50v. I just can't keep it cool enough on air, in the summer.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14349758*
> You might just also have a chip like mine, that's extremely vcore hungry. It all depends on your chip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine takes 1.35v for 4.6GHz. 1.375v for 4.7. And 1.44v for 4.8GHz. As you can see, its quite the large jump in vcore needed. I can pass stable at 5.0GHz, with 1.50v. I just can't keep it cool enough on air, in the summer.


OK, I think the needed vcores could be even higher, if you had a lower VCCIO voltage.

I am running 1,376V, 4,6Ghz over 14h stable (ended test after 14,5h or so). Could be that 4,7 would run stable with this settings, too. I hope that I will unlock more clock potential with VCCIO now.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14349791*
> OK, I think the needed vcores could be even higher, if you had a lower VCCIO voltage.
> 
> I am running 1,376V, 4,6Ghz over 14h stable (ended test after 14,5h or so). Could be that 4,7 would run stable with this settings, too. I hope that I will unlock more clock potential with VCCIO now.


It all depends on your luck of the draw with your CPU honestly.

Mine doesn't take to VCCIO for increases in core speed. For my particular chip, VCCIO only affects memory stability. But again, that's my personal chip. Yours MIGHT need a tad more VCCIO just to run stable, and it might let you decrease vcore too. It all just depends....


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14343545*
> I've just booted into Windows with Internal PLL Overvoltage disabled all the way up to x52... Not tried higher yet... Never thought it would boot Windows with it disabled at these higher multipliers...


What are you settings? I would love to boot into windows at 48x without PLL Overvoltage.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14349978*
> What are you settings? I would love to boot into windows at 48x without PLL Overvoltage.


Don't forget though that what works for one i5-2500K or i7-2600K may not work at all for another. So if you copy his settings exactly, then it still won't guarantee that it'll work exactly the same for your i7-2600K. Of course, it's always worth a shot.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


What are you settings? I would love to boot into windows at 48x without PLL Overvoltage.


I'm using very similar settings to *TwoCables* template.

This is not about settings. Each CPU will be different as to how high they can go with Internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled.

btw: Read through things that have been posted the last 6 - 7 hours in this thread. And about IBT/AVX, yes it will cause a higher load voltage VS Prime95 Blend, when LLC is at Ultra High. This is because IBT/AVX causes a larger wattage draw VS Prime95. And at these high LLC's, instead of a Vdroop on larger load, you get a higher Vcore.

Even though IBT/AVX adds more Wattage draw, and make the CPU run about 10c hotter VS Prime95 Blend, it is not a very good stability test. It's mostly good for testing cooling. I tend to stay away from IBT.


----------



## turrican9

My 4.8GHz HT-On 12 hour + Blend Custom 6000MB run.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You might just also have a chip like mine, that's extremely vcore hungry. It all depends on your chip.









Mine takes 1.35v for 4.6GHz. 1.375v for 4.7. And 1.44v for 4.8GHz. As you can see, its quite the large jump in vcore needed. I can pass stable at 5.0GHz, with 1.50v. I just can't keep it cool enough on air, in the summer.


Lol! You think that one is Vcore hungry?







My previous chip, the 2500K I traded in my current 2600K needed about ~1.368v for 4.5GHz at load, needed 1.400v (Probably 1.410v+ Never tested properly) for 4.6GHz and needed about ~1.450v Vcore under load for 4.7GHz Blend stability. And I never got it Blend stable at 4.8GHz.

The problem with yours is it does not scale well from about 4.7GHz to 4.8GHz. But below 4.8GHz you have fairly good Vcores. My new 2600K Scales well up to about 4.9GHz. 5GHz needs a huge Vcore bump to be Blend stable.

Luckily my 2600K is a fairly good one


----------



## TwoCables

turrican9:

I'm currently in the process of trying a much lower VCCIO, so can you update the OP to say "Auto" for now?







That is, at least until I figure out what setting I'm going to use.

If you're wondering just how low I want to go, I'm currently trying 1.06250V. However, I haven't tested this yet, so that's why I want to change the OP to "Auto" for now.

Thank you for everything!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


turrican9:

I'm currently in the process of trying a much lower VCCIO, so can you update the OP to say "Auto" for now?







That is, at least until I figure out what setting I'm going to use.

If you're wondering just how low I want to go, I'm currently trying 1.06250V. However, I haven't tested this yet, so that's why I want to change the OP to "Auto" for now.

Thank you for everything!


I always use Auto. It defaults to 1.050v. Reading about 1.047v. I think this is the default for Sandy. Going higher have not given me any better overclocks with regards to CPU and RAM.

However, when overclocking mem past 1600MHz it is suggested by many to up the VCCIO, if unstability occurs...

Will update...


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Hi All. I was hoping to tap all this expertise

I was planning on joining the club this weekend but I have run into a problem with my new P8Z68-Pro/2600k rig. I started testing for basic stability at stock timings and I am getting a slowdown / lock-up after about an hour of running Prime95 on blend. I see one or more of:

- mouse starts to stutter step or stops moving altogether.
- one or more programs (usually Core Temp or Real Temp) show 'program not responding' in the title bar.
- one of prime95's worker threads stops updating its log.
- trying to drag a window around the desktop is slow / stutters.
- Windows sometimes locks up altogether. Other times I can force a shutdown (no bsod though).

I've tried removing as many variables from my testing as possible.

- I swapped out my wireless KB and mouse for wired ones that I know work.
- I pulled the 2 gtx-580's and am using the on-board graphics.
- I pulled out my 4 x 4GB Vengeance and tried testing with just one stick in the A2 slot as Asus recommends. I tested 2 of the 4 sticks with the same problem.

I have a feeling it is RMA time but wanted to see if these symptoms sounded like something other than a bad mobo / cpu. Thanks.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;14356543*
> Hi All. I was hoping to tap all this expertise
> 
> I was planning on joining the club this weekend but I have run into a problem with my new P8Z68-Pro/2600k rig. I started testing for basic stability at stock timings and I am getting a slowdown / lock-up after about an hour of running Prime95 on blend. I see one or more of:
> 
> - mouse starts to stutter step or stops moving altogether.
> - one or more programs (usually Core Temp or Real Temp) show 'program not responding' in the title bar.
> - one of prime95's worker threads stops updating its log.
> - trying to drag a window around the desktop is slow / stutters.
> - Windows sometimes locks up altogether. Other times I can force a shutdown (no bsod though).
> 
> I've tried removing as many variables from my testing as possible.
> 
> - I swapped out my wireless KB and mouse for wired ones that I know work.
> - I pulled the 2 gtx-580's and am using the on-board graphics.
> - I pulled out my 4 x 4GB Vengeance and tried testing with just one stick in the A2 slot as Asus recommends. I tested 2 of the 4 sticks with the same problem.
> 
> I have a feeling it is RMA time but wanted to see if these symptoms sounded like something other than a bad mobo / cpu. Thanks.


Tried setting your RAM timings manual?

Try 1333 9-9-9-24-1.5v and set Command Rate to 2t instead of Auto.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14349425*
> What is your VCCIO voltage right now? I just learned something that might help save you money.
> 
> Thanks to a recent post in another thread by pioneerisloud, I just learned that the DRAM Voltage and the VCCIO voltage should not be more than 0.50V apart from each other and that the default VCCIO voltage is 1.000V. So if your DRAM Voltage is 1.65V right now, then your VCCIO should be increased to at least 1.15000V, or perhaps even 1.15625V.


Both are set to auto, but I'll check the figures tonight. My ram is running @ 533 so the default voltage is 1.502v. Thanks for the info, I had yet to buy the ram but I'll see if this can help


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14356584*
> Tried setting your RAM timings manual?
> 
> Try 1333 9-9-9-24-1.5v and set Command Rate to 2t instead of Auto.


I gave it a shot--same thing.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;14357652*
> I gave it a shot--same thing.


Tried to disable HT in your 2600K? Also try to Disable Internal PLL Overvoltage.

Also, make sure you try the latest bios for your mobo.


----------



## The Viper

Heh whats the deal with using manual voltage vs offset?

When I switched to manual voltage, in windows, the voltage wont throttle down when the CPU throttles down to 1.6


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Viper;14357901*
> Heh whats the deal with using manual voltage vs offset?
> 
> When I switched to manual voltage, in windows, the voltage wont throttle down when the CPU throttles down to 1.6


Some people use manual Vcore because they don't understand how Offset works, or they get Idle BSOD's when Offset. That is easily fixed by disabling C3/C6 anyway.

So no reason using manual Vcore, in my opinion.


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14357750*
> Tried to disable HT in your 2600K? Also try to Disable Internal PLL Overvoltage.
> 
> Also, make sure you try the latest bios for your mobo.


The BIOS is 0501 ... not sure I want to try the latest beta just yet. I'll give HT and overvoltage a try...thanks.


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14357935*
> Some people use manual Vcore because they don't understand how Offset works, or they get Idle BSOD's when Offset. That is easily fixed by disabling C3/C6 anyway.
> 
> So no reason using manual Vcore, in my opinion.


today i thought i may as well update to SP1 so i can LinX test with AVX...of course as soon as i do that idle blue screens abound, luckily i knew to disable C3 and C6, yet still idle crashing. So I went to manual voltage and still crashing at idle no matter what i do to C3 and C6.

So the ? is...why isnt the Vcore throttling down no matter how i have c3 and c6 set (auto, enabled, or disabled), and all other power options enabled...maybe i should update the Bios, Im still on the stock one that came with the board.

Luckily I created a restore point before i updated windows to SP1


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Viper;14358381*
> today i thought i may as well update to SP1 so i can LinX test with AVX...of course as soon as i do that idle blue screens abound, luckily i knew to disable C3 and C6, yet still idle crashing. So I went to manual voltage and still crashing at idle no matter what i do to C3 and C6.
> 
> So the ? is...why isnt the Vcore throttling down no matter how i have c3 and c6 set (auto, enabled, or disabled), and all other power options enabled...maybe i should update the Bios, Im still on the stock one that came with the board.
> 
> Luckily I created a restore point before i updated windows to SP1


Often, when C3/C6 are at Auto, I believe they are disabled. Point is that when these are disabled, the Idle Vcore will still drop, but not quite so much. It will be a tad higher VS when these are enabled.


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14358439*
> Often, when C3/C6 are at Auto, I believe they are disabled. Point is that when these are disabled, the Idle Vcore will still drop, but not quite so much. It will be a tad higher VS when these are enabled.


thats what im saying...the voltage isnt dropping at all, its staying exactly what i set it at


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Viper;14358453*
> thats what im saying...the voltage isnt dropping at all, its staying exactly what i set it at


Even if you use Offset? Manual should not drop, but Offset should.


----------



## Lord_Snow

Hi everyone, I bought an Asus P8Z68-V, and it seems to be working great so far. Just one questions, the red power-on LED stays on as long as the system is plugged in, and according to the manual it means that there is current going through..this is normal right?


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14358495*
> Even if you use Offset? Manual should not drop, but Offset should.


ok, offset does drop...but then i get idle crashes even with C3 and C6 disabled which all started happening when i updated to SP1...its really weird...prior to SP1 no BSOD at all


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Viper;14358552*
> ok, offset does drop...but then i get idle crashes even with C3 and C6 disabled which all started happening when i updated to SP1...its really weird...prior to SP1 no BSOD at all


How strange... Tried to disable C1 aswell?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord_Snow;14358517*
> Hi everyone, I bought an Asus P8Z68-V, and it seems to be working great so far. Just one questions, the red power-on LED stays on as long as the system is plugged in, and according to the manual it means that there is current going through..this is normal right?


If you're talking about when you turn off your system, but not the PSU switch then it's called standbypower. So it's normal.


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14358579*
> How strange... Tried to disable C1 aswell?


No i havent tried that yet...but id rather go back to pre-SP1 rather then having to disable C1...i really like running [email protected], lol, even though the power savings are tiny


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Viper;14358605*
> No i havent tried that yet...but id rather go back to pre-SP1 rather then having to disable C1...i really like running [email protected], lol, even though the power savings are tiny


I had no issues with SP1. But I have the PRO. You have the WS Revolution.

I've seen several people having hibernate problems with the WS Revolution, even if Internal PLL Overvoltage is disabled.


----------



## Lord_Snow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14358589*
> If you're talking about when you turn off your system, but not the PSU switch then it's called standbypower. So it's normal.


Thanks for the reply, it should also be on when the system is turned on right?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord_Snow;14358675*
> Thanks for the reply, it should also be on when the system is turned on right?


I have a green LED-diode in my P8P67 PRO that stays on when standby and when the computer is on.

But you have the P8Z68-V, and by looking at pictures, it does not look to have that same LED-Diode.

So you probably have a red LED instead..


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14358439*
> Often, when C3/C6 are at Auto, I believe they are disabled. Point is that when these are disabled, the Idle Vcore will still drop, but not quite so much. It will be a tad higher VS when these are enabled.


Besides what is mentioned above, does anyone know exactly what C3 and C6 do on LGA 1155?


----------



## Lord_Snow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14358731*
> I have a green LED-diode in my P8P67 PRO that stays on when standby and when the computer is on.
> 
> But you have the P8Z68-V, and by looking at pictures, it does not look to have that same LED-Diode.
> 
> So you probably have a red LED instead..


yeah its a red led with the power symbol on it. first build, very nooby here..


----------



## tlovhak

I think I have made some progress for my 4.5ghz Offset stable oc

Setting:

Loadline: ultra
phase C: extreme
duty C: extreme
cpu capabillity: 120%
Offset sign : -
Offset: 0.040

Vcore stay at 1.312 - 1.328 running blend test (Solid?)
Lowest temp : 57d
highest: 67d ( I still think there is something wrong with my nh-d14, will have to re-apply it if I want to go further )


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Both are set to auto, but I'll check the figures tonight. My ram is running @ 533 so the default voltage is 1.502v. Thanks for the info, I had yet to buy the ram but I'll see if this can help










Thank you!

When I use Auto, it seems to hover just below 1.000V. So I'm a little bit interested in testing with a manual setting to see how low I can have it set with my current settings for 4.8GHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I have a green LED-diode in my P8P67 PRO that stays on when standby and when the computer is on.

But you have the P8Z68-V, and by looking at pictures, it does not look to have that same LED-Diode.

So you probably have a red LED instead..


By the way, "LED" means "Light-Emitting Diode". So "LED-Diode" is redundant.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lord_Snow*


yeah its a red led with the power symbol on it. first build, very nooby here..


Yeah, that's definitely normal. The reason why they designed it like that is so that we can see it in the dark if need be (or, if there just isn't enough light to spot it quickly). I realize how silly that sounds, but my case is in a spot where the interior is _very_ dark when my system is off. So having that button lit up like that might help some day if I ever need to press it. Plus, it looks cool.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


By the way, "LED" means "Light-Emitting Diode". So "LED-Diode" is redundant.










Yeah, yeah, yeah







Then - LED/Diode









Here, I have a surprise for you









*>>The Official ASUS P8P67 EVO/TwoCables Edition Owners Club>>*


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Yeah, yeah, yeah







Then - LED/Diode









Here, I have a surprise for you









*>>The Official ASUS P8P67 EVO/TwoCables Edition Owners Club>>*


lol aw man, you're too much.


----------



## nawon72

I can't seem to get the By Per Core BIOS setting to work. I think i tried everything:








Link to pic.

Any ideas? I had C3/C6 disabled for testing so i could boot with the higher multis. But i left my OC settings the same(almost the same as TwoCables). Im gonna test the "Current" OC with C3/C6 enabled, and see if it makes a difference. Ill provide an update in 45min since i need to eat now.


----------



## TwoCables

nawon72: what is your setting for "CPU Current Capability"? If it isn't at 140%, then set it there now.


----------



## tlovhak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlovhak;14359660*
> I think I have made some progress for my 4.5ghz Offset stable oc
> 
> Setting:
> 
> Loadline: ultra
> phase C: extreme
> duty C: extreme
> cpu capabillity: 120%
> Offset sign : -
> Offset: 0.040
> 
> Vcore stay at 1.312 - 1.328 running blend test (Solid?)
> Lowest temp : 57d
> highest: 67d ( I still think there is something wrong with my nh-d14, will have to re-apply it if I want to go further )


Now running the 1344KB 15minutes test will do the 1792KB - 1792KB 6000mb if if it passed.


----------



## tlovhak

Both test passed EZ , so according to turrican9 I have at least 12hours prime95 stability.
What's is my next move ?

Find the lowest vcore possible for 4.5ghz? or Re-install my nh-d14 and move on to 4.7ghz ?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlovhak*


Both test passed EZ , so according to turrican9 I have at least 12hours prime95 stability.
What's is my next move ?

Find the lowest vcore possible for 4.5ghz? or Re-install my nh-d14 and move on to 4.7ghz ?










I would try a 12h+ blend test just to make sure turrican9's method also works for you. I'm also going to do a 12h+ blend test to see if it works for me.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


I would try a 12h+ blend test just to make sure turrican9's method also works for you. I'm also going to do a 12h+ blend test to see if it works for me.


What is your current setting for "CPU Current Capability"?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


nawon72: what is your setting for "CPU Current Capability"? If it isn't at 140%, then set it there now.


It was at 140%. Anyways look below for two exciting new discoveries(for me anyways).

*C3 and C6 - What do they do*









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


I can't seem to get the By Per Core BIOS setting to work. I think i tried everything:









Link to pic.

Any ideas? I had C3/C6 disabled for testing so i could boot with the higher multis. But i left my OC settings the same(almost the same as TwoCables). Im gonna test the "Current" OC with C3/C6 enabled, and see if it makes a difference. Ill provide an update in 45min since i need to eat now.


I have done so more tests, and this is what i found...







...

Disabling C3 and C6 also disables the By Per Core setting .
Disabling C3 and C6 causes your Vcore to be significantly higher than normal when under light load  n' .

Now are there enough reasons to use my method(look below)?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Quote:



Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


also, on later than 1606 bios (1704 and 1850) c3/c6 can/will often cause idle bsod's when overclocking and offset vcore is used.


I believe i found another way to stop the idle bsod without disabling c3, c6, or using manual voltage. I changed my llc from ultra high to high, and set the offset to 0.095(0.090 seems to bsod). Ive been using this for the last two days, and i havent got an idle bsod yet. Im not sure if this oc is stable, but it ran crysis 2 dx11 maxed for 12h no problem.


*Update:* I left my computer on over night(10h) without any programs running, and i didn't BSOD. So for me, this is another possible option for stopping the idle BSOD. turrican9, if your could test this out yourself and confirm this method works for you, then i think we have a winner. And if anyone else can help me confirm that it works, it would be appreciated.


I still haven't had an idle BSOD by using my method with 48x multi. But this does not necessarily mean it will work for you. So i recommend you try it, and if you still idle BSOD even when your 12h+ blend stable, then im afraid it doesn't work for you. If that happens, let me know and ill try to find a workaround.
*
Theories:*
Idle BSODs are caused when the CPU Turbo ramps up on one core, but isn't supplied enough voltage to maintain stability because C3 and C6 are "taking it away". As you can see in the supplied screenshots, when C3 and C6 are disabled, you get a much higher Vcore that doesn't fluctuate much.

PS - If anyone can ask an ASUS rep how C3 and C6 work, then we will have a definitive answer.


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime*


Hi All. I was hoping to tap all this expertise

I was planning on joining the club this weekend but I have run into a problem with my new P8Z68-Pro/2600k rig. I started testing for basic stability at stock timings and I am getting a slowdown / lock-up after about an hour of running Prime95 on blend. I see one or more of:

- mouse starts to stutter step or stops moving altogether.
- one or more programs (usually Core Temp or Real Temp) show 'program not responding' in the title bar.
- one of prime95's worker threads stops updating its log.
- trying to drag a window around the desktop is slow / stutters.
- Windows sometimes locks up altogether. Other times I can force a shutdown (no bsod though).

I've tried removing as many variables from my testing as possible.

- I swapped out my wireless KB and mouse for wired ones that I know work.
- I pulled the 2 gtx-580's and am using the on-board graphics.
- I pulled out my 4 x 4GB Vengeance and tried testing with just one stick in the A2 slot as Asus recommends. I tested 2 of the 4 sticks with the same problem.

I have a feeling it is RMA time but wanted to see if these symptoms sounded like something other than a bad mobo / cpu. Thanks.


It appears to me that you have a problem with your SSD. Update your OCZ Vertex3 Firmware to ver. 2.09 and your problem could be solved. I had exactly the same Issue. Also it would be best running the latest Intel sata drivers.
If this does not help, then you could try to disable LPM for your drives.

Quote from an Intel Guide to disable LPM:

_Link Power Management with IntelÂ® Rapid Storage Technology

IntelÂ® Rapid Storage Technology implements the Link power management (LPM) feature described by the Serial ATA specification to overcome the power demand of a high-speed serial interface, SATA and providing the capability of SATA at the minimum power cost. LPM, when used in conjunction with a SATA hard drive that supports this feature, enables lower power consumption. LPM was initially enabled by default on mobile platforms starting with ICH6M with IntelÂ® Matrix Storage Manager. Starting with ICH9R this feature has also been supported on desktop platforms with IntelÂ® Matrix Storage Manager 7.5 release but not enabled by default. Beginning with the IntelÂ® Rapid Storage Technology 10.0 release, LPM support is enabled by default on both mobile and desktop platforms. OEM's who wish to modify the default settings for LPM on their platforms can follow the instructions in the following section(s).

Instructions to disable/enable LPM

After system is setup with OS and IntelÂ® Rapid Storage Technology installed, follow the below instructions to modify the default LPM support.

NOTE: Beginning with the IntelÂ® Rapid Storage Technology 10.0 release, the registry keys are no longer populated in the Windows registry by default. The RST driver does not require the registry keys to be present to support the default settings.

1. Go to Start->Run
2. Type in RegEdit and hit the Enter Key.
3. Go to the below mentioned location to insert or configure the registry keys for LPM
NOTE: OEM's need to configure the LPM settings by port. Ports are numbered starting with zero (please refer the desired platform EDS for the number of ports supported on that platform)

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\\System\\CurrentControlSet\\Ser vic es\\iaStor\\Parameters\\Port0\\
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\\System\\CurrentControlSet\\Ser vic es\\iaStor\\Parameters\\Port1\\
&#8230;
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\\System\\CurrentControlSet\\Ser vic es\\iaStor\\Parameters\\Port5\\

4. Now add the following registry keys under the registry location mentioned in step3, if they are not available (These registry keys are not available by default, they can be added by using utomated scripts, .reg files, executable utilities, etc). If you find the below registry keys already available, you can modify the values for desired support. Values are modified on a port by port basis so modify all ports that you wish the changes to be supported on. **

"LPM"=dword: 00000001 {dword: 00000000->Disable; dword: 00000001->Enable} [default = Enabled]
"LPMSTATE"=dword: 00000000 {dword: 00000000->Partial; dword: 00000001->Slumber} [default = Disabled] (Note: the driver ignores this key when the LPM key'svalue is not set to 1. So when LPM value is 0, this value is N/A.)
"LPMDSTATE"=dword: 00000001 {dword: 00000000->Partial; dword: 00000001->Slumber} [default = Enabled]
"DIPM"=dword: 00000001 {dword: 00000000->Disable; dword: 00000001->Enable} [default = Enabled]

**Warning: If you edit the registry incorrectly, you can cause serious problems that may require you to reinstall your operating system. Intel does not guarantee that problems that are caused by editing the Registry incorrectly can be resolved. _

At the bottom of the first post on this page there are linked 2 reg files, which will do this for you. (I know the page is german, but the files will do for sure):
http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community...en-793649.html

I thought, this might be caused by my overclock, too. Sometimes I got a bsod, rebooted and the ssd wasnt found by the bios until a complete cold boot. That's how I got onto the right trail.


----------



## nawon72

I just noticed this:

Quote:



*CPU Spread Spectrum*: Modulates the processor clock to reduce radiated noise emissions. Disable if overclocking, as clock modulation will increase instability.


Link

Didn't someone here say to set it to enabled for increased stability or something? I had it on Auto before i heard that, and now it's disabled.


----------



## Eaglake

Something is definitely wrong.
I have BSODs every time I start to fold.
The PC is stock for more than 2 weeks (BIOS defaults) and it's crashing and pretty often and that starts to get on my nerves.
I know something's wrong with it.
















This is one of BSOD I get. There's also been an 01e and 07e BSOD


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Tried to disable HT in your 2600K? Also try to Disable Internal PLL Overvoltage.

Also, make sure you try the latest bios for your mobo.


With HT and Overvoltage disabled, I was able to run blend for 3 hours without a hitch. I'm going to try flipping HT back on and see where that gets me.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14365173*
> I just noticed this:
> Link
> 
> Didn't someone here say to set it to enabled for increased stability or something? I had it on Auto before i heard that, and now it's disabled.


Spread Spectrum should always be disabled when overclocking. It's been like that for years. Though I remember my Gigabyte X58 board use to have it hidden and enabled. Had to CTRL + F1 to show in BIOS and then disabled it thereafter.


----------



## Nethermir

this is not OC related but i just found these nice pictures on flickr.


----------



## eiji-gravion

Is the increased cpu current capability really necessary? I've had my 4.8 overclock stable for quite awhile now and it's still at 100%.

Bios is manual voltage 1.375 with internal pll overvoltage disabled.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eiji-gravion;14366356*
> Is the increased cpu current capability really necessary? I've had my 4.8 overclock stable for quite awhile now and it's still at 100%.
> 
> Bios is manual voltage 1.375 with internal pll overvoltage disabled.


It mainly helps when you go over 5GHz and really push the voltage.


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;14365995*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14357750*
> Tried to disable HT in your 2600K? Also try to Disable Internal PLL Overvoltage.
> 
> Also, make sure you try the latest bios for your mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> With HT and Overvoltage disabled, I was able to run blend for 3 hours without a hitch. I'm going to try flipping HT back on and see where that gets me.
Click to expand...

HT enabled and PLL Overvoltage disabled and things ran fine for 3 hours. Guess that means it was the overvoltage. Thanks turrican9! [+rep]

Has anyone else had problems with this and a stock 2600k?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;14369920*
> HT enabled and PLL Overvoltage disabled and things ran fine for 3 hours. Guess that means it was the overvoltage. Thanks turrican9! [+rep]
> 
> Has anyone else had problems with this and a stock 2600k?


Thanks man... I need a break here... I need to get drunk and think through a couple of things...

Glad it worked out for you


----------



## orlywutlol

Hi guys I'm as new as you can get with SB. Just got this rig up and running a few days ago. I'm looking for a modest 4.2ghz OC and to run my RAM it's rated speed. I have been skimming this thread and still have a few questions..

Will leaving most of the voltage values on AUTO overvolt and damage the cpu?

How do you figure out what CPU offset to use? And whats with the CPU offset bug that can set insane volts and fry your cpu?

And finally can someone explain to me the CPU Current Capability is? What does manually setting this do?

I presume something like this will get me a 4.2ghz OC.

Code:


Code:


Ai Tweaker

    Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
    BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
    Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
    By All Cores: [B]change to 42[/B]
    Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
    Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
    DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
    EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >

    CPU Ratio: Auto
    Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
    Turbo Mode: Enabled
    Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
    Long Duration Maintained: Auto
    Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
    Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
    Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

    Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
    VRM Frequency: Manual
    VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
    Phase Control: Extreme
    Duty Control: Extreme
    CPU Current Capability: [B]140% <<< What do I do with this?[/B]
    CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
    Offset Mode Sign: +
    CPU Offset Voltage: [B]0.040V  <<< Still a bit confused on CPU Offset. [/B]
    DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
    VCCSA Voltage: Auto
    VCCIO Voltage: Auto
    CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
    PCH Voltage: Auto
    CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >

    CPU Ratio: Auto
    Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
    Active Processor Cores: All
    Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
    Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
    Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
    Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
    Turbo Mode: Enabled
    CPU C1E: Enabled
    CPU C3 Report: Auto
    CPU C6 Report: Auto


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Spread Spectrum should always be disabled when overclocking. It's been like that for years. Though I remember my Gigabyte X58 board use to have it hidden and enabled. Had to CTRL + F1 to show in BIOS and then disabled it thereafter.


Im new to the overclocking scene, so i didn't know that. This is why i thought it should be enabled:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*



*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled


 And it shows that in the second post on this thread.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*


Will leaving most of the voltage values on AUTO overvolt and damage the cpu?


Ill start off by saying that most of your overclocking questions will be answered in the first few posts of this thread/club. Especially since your new to Sandy Bridge. Now to answer your questions.

I haven't heard of that happening, and when left on auto, i've only seen my voltages at stock. So i would say no.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*


How do you figure out what CPU offset to use? And whats with the CPU offset bug that can set insane volts and fry your cpu?


CPU offset info here. Info on the offset bug is in the first page of the thread, but here is the link.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*


And finally can someone explain to me what CPU Current Capability is? What does manually setting this do?


The following is taken from here. "*CPU Current Capability*: Increases the power threshold before over-current protection limits power (either by shut-off or throttling). We set this to 140% for all overclocking (processor cooling permitting)." So it allows more current to go your CPU when its required, which it is for overclocking. For 4.2GHz though, i don't think you will need it but i would change it to 140% just in case. It won't harm your CPU unless your cooling can't handle the heat output.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*


I presume something like this will get me a 4.2ghz OC.

Code:


Code:


...


Those settings should get you to at least 4.6GHz. 4.2GHz should only require stock settings, and possibly a few tweaks.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


It was at 140%. Anyways look below for two exciting new discoveries(for me anyways).

*C3 and C6 - What do they do*









I have done so more tests, and this is what i found...







...

Disabling C3 and C6 also disables the By Per Core setting .
Disabling C3 and C6 causes your Vcore to be significantly higher than normal when under light load  n' .

Now are there enough reasons to use my method(look below)?

I still haven't had an idle BSOD by using my method with 48x multi. But this does not necessarily mean it will work for you. So i recommend you try it, and if you still idle BSOD even when your 12h+ blend stable, then im afraid it doesn't work for you. If that happens, let me know and ill try to find a workaround.
*
Theories:*
Idle BSODs are caused when the CPU Turbo ramps up on one core, but isn't supplied enough voltage to maintain stability because C3 and C6 are "taking it away". As you can see in the supplied screenshots, when C3 and C6 are disabled, you get a much higher Vcore that doesn't fluctuate much.

PS - If anyone can ask an ASUS rep how C3 and C6 work, then we will have a definitive answer.


Interesting findings... I will look into this..

Edit: So you say if C3/C6 is enabled you can actually run two cores at 4.5GHz and two of them at 4.3GHz? I tried that earlier, and did not work. I thought this could be a cool thing, making a higher overclock by clocking one or two cores lower, or something like that.

I probably had disabled C3/C6 when I tried. Or they were Disabled when at the Auto setting. Very interesting









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


this is not OC related but i just found these nice pictures on flickr.


Very nice pictures







I will consider adding the last picture in first post of the Club


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14365173*
> I just noticed this:
> Link
> 
> Didn't someone here say to set it to enabled for increased stability or something? I had it on Auto before i heard that, and now it's disabled.


CPU Spread Spectrum should only be disabled if you want to start increasing the BCLK/PEG Frequency. Otherwise, there is nothing wrong with leaving it enabled (mine is enabled, and my system is rock-solid stable at 4.8GHz).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;14366200*
> Spread Spectrum should always be disabled when overclocking. It's been like that for years. Though I remember my Gigabyte X58 board use to have it hidden and enabled. Had to CTRL + F1 to show in BIOS and then disabled it thereafter.


With Sandy Bridge overclocking, CPU Spread Spectrum can be left enabled if you are leaving the BCLK/PEG Frequency at 100.0 MHz. So if you want to start increasing the BCLK/PEG Frequency, then disable CPU Spread Spectrum.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eiji-gravion;14366356*
> Is the increased cpu current capability really necessary? I've had my 4.8 overclock stable for quite awhile now and it's still at 100%.
> 
> Bios is manual voltage 1.375 with internal pll overvoltage disabled.


Do you see your full overclock with your full core voltage in CPU-Z while Prime95 is running?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14373498*
> Hi guys I'm as new as you can get with SB. Just got this rig up and running a few days ago. I'm looking for a modest 4.2ghz OC and to run my RAM it's rated speed. I have been skimming this thread and still have a few questions..
> 
> Will leaving most of the voltage values on AUTO overvolt and damage the cpu?


Fortunately, no.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14373498*
> How do you figure out what CPU offset to use? And whats with the CPU offset bug that can set insane volts and fry your cpu?


The CPU offset bug has been fixed with the newer UEFI versions. For example: I am using 1850 for the P8P67 EVO, and I do not have the bug.

The behavior was that when switching between two profiles where Offset is being used in both, the offset voltage would get cranked way up because it would add the two offset voltages together.

So if you had Profile 1 set for an offset of +0.070 and Profile 2 set for +0.075, then switching between the profiles would result in an offset of +0.145V! For me, +0.145V would result in a core voltage of 1.50 because my VID is about 1.3511 to 1.3611V (according to Core Temp). Fortunately, this higher voltage could be seen *before* pressing F10 and applying that voltage!

Now, it's not that 1.50V is dangerous, but some people were using much higher +Offsets which resulted in a *much* higher core voltage thereby resulting in an instant death.

Now, I never experienced the bug myself, but yet I still check my offset voltage when I switch profiles because I can't afford to lose my CPU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14373498*
> And finally can someone explain to me the CPU Current Capability is? What does manually setting this do?
> 
> I presume something like this will get me a 4.2ghz OC.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: [B]change to 42[/B]
> Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
> Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
> DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: [B]140% <<< What do I do with this?[/B]
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: [B]0.040V  <<< Still a bit confused on CPU Offset. [/B]
> DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto


With your cooling, I recommend just shooting straight for 4.7 or 4.8GHz. I'm serious! You could just copy my settings and you'd more than likely be absolutely fine. Sure, you'd probably have to adjust the Offset by 0.005V increments up or down, but that's about it!

I went straight to 4.7GHz without trying anything lower than that first, and it was easier than breathing.







Overclocking the 2500K to 4.2GHz is like taking an E8400 from 3.0GHz to 3.5GHz.

Anyway, regarding Offset: the core voltage you end up with generally depends on your VID (use Core Temp to see your VID). Core Temp tells me that my VID is 1.3511V to 1.3611V, and my core voltage under load according to CPU-Z ends up being about 1.392V and I sometimes see precisely 1.400V. Well, adding 0.040V to 1.3511V results in 1.3911V, and adding 0.040V to 1.3611V results in 1.4011V.

So if I used -0.040V instead of +0.040V, then I'd see 1.312V to 1.328V.

*Note:* if I use an Offset of "Auto", then I see core voltages of more than 1.45V. However, that's the ONLY "Auto" setting that overvolts a voltage.


----------



## TwoCables

*Update regarding my VCCIO testing:*

I tried a 12-hour run of Prime95's Blend with my VCCIO at 1.00000V, and it only lasted 4 hours and 47 minutes, and 38 seconds.

So I increased it to 1.02500V (3 increments up), but I haven't tested it yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13464107*
> *Official ASUS P8P67 Series Overclocking Guide and Information*
> 
> Quoted from a great thread on XtremeSystems by *illuminatiASUS*
> 
> *Click below to see hidden text!*
> [/spoiler]
> 
> *Click below to see hidden text/Pictures!*
> [/spoiler]


Can you change this so that it is taken from the thread below instead? http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110

The reason why I ask is because it's the original, and also because his username is "Juan Jose" on HardForum which I hope would make it clear for others that he is the same "JJ" in the Newegg TV videos.


----------



## Patrikc8

so i think im confusing myself,

my case has a USB 3.0 header for its two front usb 3 ports and im buying a p8p67 pro motherboard, does it have a usb 3 header on it??? im really hoping it does


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Patrikc8;14379422*
> so i think im confusing myself,
> 
> my case has a USB 3.0 header for its two front usb 3 ports and im buying a p8p67 pro motherboard, does it have a usb 3 header on it??? im really hoping it does


Yes it has a USB 3.0 header on the board.


----------



## ferencziffra

Hi guys. Just a question. I have the CM Storm Scout case and I put the motherboard in there today. Just wondering where should I plug the eSATA connector coming out of the front panel. One of the regular SATAs or the Marvell SATA in the middle of the board?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


*Update regarding my VCCIO testing:*

I tried a 12-hour run of Prime95's Blend with my VCCIO at 1.00000V, and it only lasted 4 hours and 47 minutes, and 38 seconds.

So I increased it to 1.02500V (3 increments up), but I haven't tested it yet.

Can you change this so that it is taken from the thread below instead? http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110

The reason why I ask is because it's the original, and also because his username is "Juan Jose" on HardForum which I hope would make it clear for others that he is the same "JJ" in the Newegg TV videos.











Yes, yes mate. I will update. But today I'm getting drunk. I need to think things through..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Yes, yes mate. I will update. But today I'm getting drunk. I need to think things through..


Are you celebrating something?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Are you celebrating something?


I have vacation now. But I still had to work a little (Share holder)....

But interesting question though...

The answer, yes... maybe I celebrate that I'm not a monster like that guy who killed all those persons down in Norway... And maybe I celebrate history and feelings... Frankly.. I don't know... I just know I need it...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I have vacation now. But I still had to work a little (Share holder)....

But interesting question though...

The answer, yes... maybe I celebrate that I'm not a monster like that guy who killed all those persons down in Norway... And maybe I celebrate history and feelings... Frankly.. I don't know... I just know I need it...


I think I know how you're feeling.

Perhaps you can celebrate that you're on vacation.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ferencziffra*


Hi guys. Just a question. I have the CM Storm Scout case and I put the motherboard in there today. Just wondering where should I plug the eSATA connector coming out of the front panel. One of the regular SATAs or the Marvell SATA in the middle of the board?


Hi








OP is doing the Viking thing tonight, so I'll reply









I'd say just plug it in to one of the regular SATA ports!
But, then go into the bios and enable "Hot-Swap" for the port you used


----------



## TwoCables

When you guys take screenshots of the UEFI, do you get giant black horizontal bars?

I get them every single time, and I have reached a point where I wish I could make it stop.

Help!


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


When you guys take screenshots of the UEFI, do you get giant black horizontal bars?

I get them every single time, and I have reached a point where I wish I could make it stop.

Help!










That's strange!

You do have it formatted FAT32


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, it's FAT32. My first few screenshots early on after overclocking to 4.7GHz were all perfect. Now every single screenshot ends up looking like this:



















I'm going to load the Optimized Defaults and then take some screenshots to see if they're better. Of course, I won't post them.


----------



## TwoCables

I'm still getting black bars.

I loaded optimized defaults, pressed F10, went right back in the UEFI and took some screenshots.

Then I loaded my current overclock profile, F10'd, went back into the UEFI, took some screenshots, and then went back to Windows.

I guess I'll just keep posting my plain text 'templates'.

Y'know what, though: I'd rather have this than a bad overclocker or something.







I mean, at least everything else works.


----------



## The Viper

lol, i think those black bars are cool man...i mean ur the only one who has them.

I just threw a usb stick on there, f12, no black bars, have u tried a different usb drive


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Viper*


lol, i think those black bars are cool man...i mean ur the only one who has them.

I just threw a usb stick on there, f12, no black bars, have u tried a different usb drive


Ooo, I forgot that I can try my mom's USB flash drive. I need a few minutes to find it and then test it.


----------



## TwoCables

I finally tried my mom's USB flash drive, and it works perfectly. :/

So I guess something is wrong with mine.


----------



## beetlespin

Better then the motherboard







.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *beetlespin*


Better then the motherboard







.


Or my CPU. hehe


----------



## Psycrow

I just bought this mobo and i was surprised with the new bios mode.
And the way it can autoclock and save power mode and stuff.

So far i like this mobo.









How do i become a memer of this club








I have a p8Z68 board

I run with turbo mode enable and have an idle system on 1600 mhz 0.984 v core with 38-40 temp using hyper212 plus cpu cooler. And on work with prime95 then i get 4214 mhz with 1.296 v core 62-65 temp
(consider its summer now and its hot )

I have the Intel 2500K sandy bridge 3.33 Ghz
with 6 ddr3 1600 mhz corsair
5870 ati ( soon i will make it crossfire because i use 3 samsung 24" screens
750 w psu zalman
Coolermaster hyper 212 plus ( soon with another fan so i have 2)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Psycrow*


I just bought this mobo and i was surprised with the new bios mode.
And the way it can autoclock and save power mode and stuff.

So far i like this mobo.









How do i become a memer of this club








I have a p8Z68 board

I run with turbo mode enable and have an idle system on 1600 mhz 0.984 v core with 38-40 temp using hyper212 plus cpu cooler. And on work with prime95 then i get 4214 mhz with 1.296 v core 62-65 temp
(consider its summer now and its hot )

I have the Intel 2500K sandy bridge 3.33 Ghz
with 6 ddr3 1600 mhz corsair
5870 ati ( soon i will make it crossfire because i use 3 samsung 24" screens
750 w psu zalman
Coolermaster hyper 212 plus ( soon with another fan so i have 2)


6GB? Did you put 3 sticks of memory in this board?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14377451*
> *Update regarding my VCCIO testing:*
> 
> I tried a 12-hour run of Prime95's Blend with my VCCIO at 1.00000V, and it only lasted 4 hours and 47 minutes, and 38 seconds.
> 
> So I increased it to 1.02500V (3 increments up), but I haven't tested it yet.


Im testing the same thing for my OC right now. With 1.05 VCCIO i BSOD in 2 hours, but with 1.15 i BSOD in 5-6 hours(other voltages slightly different). So now im going to test 1.15 VCCIO and see if i beat 2h.


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah! I went out and bought a new USB flash drive and now I can take perfect screenshots in the UEFI!

Oddly enough, I ended up buying the 8GB version of what I had before (4GB) because it was on sale for just $10!

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/PNY+-+Attach%26%23233%3B+8GB+USB+2.0+Flash+Drive/9737178.p?id=1218164033407&skuId=9737178

If it weren't on sale, then I would have gone with something completely different since the 4GB seems to be going out on me.


----------



## Sistum Id

My EK Supreme HF and tubing came in today from FrozenCPU







. I can't wait to get off work in 2 hours and get my water loop set back up and start messing with my 2600k and UEFI. I ordered a Sandy setup last week and forgot to order a 1155 water block









Also got an update of my GTX 580 RMA status from EVGA. Should be here Monday


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;14383390*
> That's strange!
> 
> You do have it formatted FAT32


Does it have to be formatted FAT32 or will NTFS work, too ?


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14388700*
> Does it have to be formatted FAT32 or will NTFS work, too ?


Why would you format a flash drive as NTFS anyway? The overhead makes it highly unsuitable for flash drives. If FAT32 does not meet your requirements (max file size etc...) use exFAT (AKA FAT64).


----------



## tomasrs4

Does anyone use Samsung F3 1TB HD103SJ hard drive with P8P67 PRO rev3.1/3.0? Do you experience any problems? I have the exact same issue as these people: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=95674 . This corsair hdd is getting replaced by corsair, but what do i do with my samsung?







Is it faulty, or is it incompatible?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomasrs4;14389868*
> Does anyone use Samsung F3 1TB HD103SJ hard drive with P8P67 PRO rev3.1/3.0? Do you experience any problems? I have the exact same issue as these people: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=95674 . This corsair hdd is getting replaced by corsair, but what do i do with my samsung?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it faulty, or is it incompatible?


I've got 2 of those in a RAID0, no issues at all. There's something else that you and the Corsair guy are both doing wrong. Not sure what though.

*Attention to everyone with these boards...*
This is just a fair warning. Guys, be very careful with these stupid things. My board broke yesterday, while swapping my 4x2GB RAM into 4x4GB. In order to get to my very first RAM slot, I had to GENTLY move my cooler out of the way ever so slightly. I mean I seriously wasn't putting much pressure at all on it. That's the only thing I can possibly think of that I could have done wrong. But it doesn't POST anymore after the switch. Tried my old RAM, one stick, everything. All of my parts work perfectly fine on a donor 1155 board at a local shop. So I know its the board.

Just figured I'd share with you guys. Apparently another guy locally did the same thing to his P8P67 board too. The guys at the shop claim that we both "micro cracked" the board, by pushing on our coolers, even though we were gentle.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14390006*
> I've got 2 of those in a RAID0, no issues at all. There's something else that you and the Corsair guy are both doing wrong. Not sure what though.
> 
> *Attention to everyone with these boards...*
> This is just a fair warning. Guys, be very careful with these stupid things. My board broke yesterday, while swapping my 4x2GB RAM into 4x4GB. In order to get to my very first RAM slot, I had to GENTLY move my cooler out of the way ever so slightly. I mean I seriously wasn't putting much pressure at all on it. That's the only thing I can possibly think of that I could have done wrong. But it doesn't POST anymore after the switch. Tried my old RAM, one stick, everything. All of my parts work perfectly fine on a donor 1155 board at a local shop. So I know its the board.
> 
> Just figured I'd share with you guys. Apparently another guy locally did the same thing to his P8P67 board too. The guys at the shop claim that we both "micro cracked" the board, by pushing on our coolers, even though we were gentle.


wow that kinda sucks. what version of the p8p67 board are you using? and by gently moving is it moving the cooler while screwed in?


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomasrs4;14389868*
> Does anyone use Samsung F3 1TB HD103SJ hard drive with P8P67 PRO rev3.1/3.0? Do you experience any problems? I have the exact same issue as these people: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=95674 . This corsair hdd is getting replaced by corsair, but what do i do with my samsung?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it faulty, or is it incompatible?


Did you try updating the firmware? http://www.samsung.com/global/business/hdd/faqView.do?b2b_bbs_msg_id=308


----------



## tomasrs4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;14390589*
> Did you try updating the firmware? http://www.samsung.com/global/business/hdd/faqView.do?b2b_bbs_msg_id=308


it's already newest


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14390006*
> I've got 2 of those in a RAID0, no issues at all. There's something else that you and the Corsair guy are both doing wrong. Not sure what though.
> 
> *Attention to everyone with these boards...*
> This is just a fair warning. Guys, be very careful with these stupid things. My board broke yesterday, while swapping my 4x2GB RAM into 4x4GB. In order to get to my very first RAM slot, I had to GENTLY move my cooler out of the way ever so slightly. I mean I seriously wasn't putting much pressure at all on it. That's the only thing I can possibly think of that I could have done wrong. But it doesn't POST anymore after the switch. Tried my old RAM, one stick, everything. All of my parts work perfectly fine on a donor 1155 board at a local shop. So I know its the board.
> 
> Just figured I'd share with you guys. Apparently another guy locally did the same thing to his P8P67 board too. The guys at the shop claim that we both "micro cracked" the board, by pushing on our coolers, even though we were gentle.


No offense but moving the cooler in any way, while it's screwed in, sounds like a really bad idea. I've been pretty rough with reinstalling my h60 a bunch of times and it's still ok.


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

I have updated the second post (Overclocking) linking to the original thread at HardOCP and quoted Juan_Jose, the original creator of that thread.

Thanks for letting me know this. I was not aware of it.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Spread Spectrum should always be disabled when overclocking. It's been like that for years. Though I remember my Gigabyte X58 board use to have it hidden and enabled. Had to CTRL + F1 to show in BIOS and then disabled it thereafter.


I have found something interesting. I thought for sure I had degraded my 2600K, since it would no longer be stable at previously tested stable Vcore and it would not boot windows no more when Internal PLL Overvoltage was disabled, like it used to do at x50 + multipliers.

*It turned out I had disabled the CPU Spread Spectrum feature, and that was causing this. After putting it back at Auto, all was fine again, like it used to be.

So for these boards, CPU Spread Spectrum should not be disabled.*


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I have found something interesting. I thought for sure I had degraded my 2600K, since it would no longer be stable at previously tested stable Vcore and it would not boot windows no more when Internal PLL Overvoltage was disabled, like it used to do at x50 + multipliers.

*It turned out I had disabled the CPU Spread Spectrum feature, and that was causing this. After putting it back at Auto, all was fine again, like it used to be.

So for these boards, CPU Spread Spectrum should not be disabled.*


I remember not being able to stabilize my E8400 OC, UNTIL I disabled spread spectrum. So many things about SB are the opposite of Core 2.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Okay guys one last question.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a P8P67-Pro board. But one thing that bothers me is the overwhelming amount of DOAs on newegg. I know, I know, newegg reviews aren't something I should take too seriously. but still, its a bit disconcerting still. Opinions?

I also picked up a binned 2600K from Patch here for $260, so I'm a happy man.


----------



## Psycrow

No i have order 2x1 at first and then later i wanted to order another 2x1 more so i had 4
but the shop was mistaken and sold me 2x2 for the same price







so i had 6 gb ddr3

2x1 and 2x2 - 6 bg total


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Okay guys one last question.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a P8P67-Pro board. But one thing that bothers me is the overwhelming amount of DOAs on newegg. I know, I know, newegg reviews aren't something I should take too seriously. but still, its a bit disconcerting still. Opinions?

I also picked up a binned 2600K from Patch here for $260, so I'm a happy man.


Their fine... Nothing to worry about. Very few people have posted about issues with their ASUS P8P67 motherboards in this club.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Psycrow*


No i have order 2x1 at first and then later i wanted to order another 2x1 more so i had 4
but the shop was mistaken and sold me 2x2 for the same price







so i had 6 gb ddr3

2x1 and 2x2 - 6 bg total


Lucky for you !


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Okay guys one last question.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a P8P67-Pro board. But one thing that bothers me is the overwhelming amount of DOAs on newegg. I know, I know, newegg reviews aren't something I should take too seriously. but still, its a bit disconcerting still. Opinions?

I also picked up a binned 2600K from Patch here for $260, so I'm a happy man.


Newegg reviews are almost worthless.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Okay guys one last question.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a P8P67-Pro board. But one thing that bothers me is the overwhelming amount of DOAs on newegg. I know, I know, newegg reviews aren't something I should take too seriously. but still, its a bit disconcerting still. Opinions?

I also picked up a binned 2600K from Patch here for $260, so I'm a happy man.


Check the reviews on the one I bought.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131771


----------



## pal

How is LucidVirtu working on P8Z68 Deluxe?
I saw other boards have dvi,vga, or hdmi outputs on motherboard, but Deluxe version do not have one.
If I turn Lucid ON(iGPU) will work this. In PCI-E I have installed HD6870 and connected to monitor, so if I turn iGPU on, will iGPU work in 2D (Windows) mode thru hd6870?
Or how is this working?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14390501*
> wow that kinda sucks. what version of the p8p67 board are you using? and by gently moving is it moving the cooler while screwed in?


Board was version 3.0 (B3 revision obviously), and yeah the cooler was still screwed in. I didn't move it very much at ALL. Probably no more pressure than the cooler does on its own every day anyway.


----------



## Sistum Id

I got my watercooling set up last night. I can't get rid of the F1 CPU FAN not found error. I ignored all fan related stuff in the bios and it still comes up. I now have it set to ignore F1 errors, but it still comes up when the bios is loading. I also went and flashed the latest bios from ASUS, still showing the error.

Any ideas on how to fix this?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sistum Id;14398116*
> I got my watercooling set up last night. I can't get rid of the F1 CPU FAN not found error. I ignored all fan related stuff in the bios and it still comes up. I now have it set to ignore F1 errors, but it still comes up when the bios is loading. I also went and flashed the latest bios from ASUS, still showing the error.
> 
> Any ideas on how to fix this?


Did you plug a fan into the CPU fan header? If you didn't and don't want to, then plug in a fan Y-splitter or fan extension cable into the CPU fan header and the message should go away. It worked for me when i wanted to try my NH-D14 as a passive heastsink. I used the Y-splitter that came with it.


----------



## L36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sistum Id;14398116*
> I got my watercooling set up last night. I can't get rid of the F1 CPU FAN not found error. I ignored all fan related stuff in the bios and it still comes up. I now have it set to ignore F1 errors, but it still comes up when the bios is loading. I also went and flashed the latest bios from ASUS, still showing the error.
> 
> Any ideas on how to fix this?


Select CPU fan speed, hit enter on it and select as ignore.


----------



## Sistum Id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14398163*
> Did you plug a fan into the CPU fan header? If you didn't and don't want to, then plug in a fan Y-splitter or fan extension cable into the CPU fan header and the message should go away. It worked for me when i wanted to try my NH-D14 as a passive heastsink. I used the Y-splitter that came with it.


I have a couple of case fans that are in other fan headers on the motherboard, I could plug anyone of those and it should work?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L36;14398211*
> Select CPU fan speed, hit enter on it and select as ignore.


Tried that, no go.

Also does this board have a temp sensor to plug a temp probe in? I can't find one.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14392956*
> *TwoCables*
> 
> I have updated the second post (Overclocking) linking to the original thread at HardOCP and quoted Juan_Jose, the original creator of that thread.
> 
> Thanks for letting me know this. I was not aware of it.


Whoa. You have a memory like a steel trap!









Thank you for letting me know. Of course, you are welcome!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14393022*
> I have found something interesting. I thought for sure I had degraded my 2600K, since it would no longer be stable at previously tested stable Vcore and it would not boot windows no more when Internal PLL Overvoltage was disabled, like it used to do at x50 + multipliers.
> 
> *It turned out I had disabled the CPU Spread Spectrum feature, and that was causing this. After putting it back at Auto, all was fine again, like it used to be.
> 
> So for these boards, CPU Spread Spectrum should not be disabled.*


The only time it's wise to disable CPU Spread Spectrum is if you want to start adjusting the BCLK in either direction.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14393278*
> I remember not being able to stabilize my E8400 OC, UNTIL I disabled spread spectrum. So many things about SB are the opposite of Core 2.


The reason why disabling Spread Spectrum was required back then is because we were overclocking the FSB (the BCLK). So since Sandy Bridge is basically the opposite where now we don't have to touch the BCLK at all, it's best to leave CPU Spread Spectrum enabled. However, if you wanted to make any adjustments to the BCLK in either direction above or below 100.0 MHz, then you should disable CPU Spread Spectrum for the same reason we had to disable it for FSB overclocking.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus;14394290*
> Okay guys one last question.
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger on a P8P67-Pro board. But one thing that bothers me is the overwhelming amount of DOAs on newegg. I know, I know, newegg reviews aren't something I should take too seriously. but still, its a bit disconcerting still. Opinions?
> 
> I also picked up a binned 2600K from Patch here for $260, so I'm a happy man.


Don't worry about it. The reason why it seems like there is a large amount of DOAs is because the board is _extremely_ popular. So the percentage of boards they sell that end up being DOA is still extremely small, except the amount of purchases overall is extremely large which naturally increases the amount of DOAs.

So your chances of getting a DOA are about what they always are.







Therefore, I say that you should just confidently place your order and enjoy it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14397299*
> Board was version 3.0 (B3 revision obviously), and yeah the cooler was still screwed in. I didn't move it very much at ALL. Probably no more pressure than the cooler does on its own every day anyway.


Which board did you have though?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Asus P8P67 Pro B3, Rev 3.0. It's in my system lists.


----------



## pal

I had that error to, becouse have H2O for cpu.
But in monitor option, first I didnt see. Under Cpu fan you must hit enter and put it on Ignore.
The first option after MB temperature.


----------



## TwoCables

F12 takes screenshots.


----------



## CPT Ethanolic

Having now used the P8P67 Pro plus 2500k processor for a week, I haven't even found a reason to overclock yet! With the dual 560ti's, I can't find a game that runs under 60FPS. With my old x58 and 930 processor, I had to OC to get that performance. I'm completely blown away by how well this MOBO/CPU works.


----------



## pal

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


F12 takes screenshots.










Yea, wright. Frogot about F12. But where are tan stored those screenshots?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pal*


Yea, wright. Frogot about F12. But where are tan stored those screenshots?


To take the screenshots, you have to have a USB drive plugged in formatted as FAT32.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CPT Ethanolic*


Having now used the P8P67 Pro plus 2500k processor for a week, I haven't even found a reason to overclock yet! With the dual 560ti's, I can't find a game that runs under 60FPS. With my old x58 and 930 processor, I had to OC to get that performance. I'm completely blown away by how well this MOBO/CPU works.


I can think of 2 reasons to overclock it: you have the 2500K in the P8P67 Pro.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I can think of 2 reasons to overclock it: you have the 2500K in the P8P67 Pro.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Don't worry about it. The reason why it seems like there is a large amount of DOAs is because the board is _extremely_ popular. So the percentage of boards they sell that end up being DOA is still extremely small, except the amount of purchases overall is extremely large which naturally increases the amount of DOAs.

So your chances of getting a DOA are about what they always are.







Therefore, I say that you should just confidently place your order and enjoy it!


This ^^^^

And knowing how many ASUS boards are sold VS Gigabyte boards makes me think...

You almost never see posts about problems that cannot be fixed via a few bios settings or something with regards to ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 boards.

Gigabyte on the other hand, which sell far, far less boards VS ASUS has many problem posts in here. That Boot-Cycle problem seems to be the biggest. And often they cannot be fixed, and RMA is the only solution.

I really feel these ASUS boards are solid boards, and a safe bet.

I think the most popular combo in here is the 2500K/ASUS P8P67 PRO combination. And there is a good reason for that...


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


This ^^^^

And knowing how many ASUS boards are sold VS Gigabyte boards makes me think...

You almost never see posts about problems that cannot be fixed via a few bios settings or something with regards to ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 boards.

Gigabyte on the other hand, which sell far, far less boards VS ASUS has many problem posts in here. That Boot-Cycle problem seems to be the biggest. And often they cannot be fixed, and RMA is the only solution.

I really feel these ASUS boards are solid boards, and a safe bet.

I think the most popular combo in here is the 2500K/ASUS P8P67 PRO combination. And there is a good reason for that...


MSI boards have the booting issue too (embarrassing for MSI since it even occurred in a P67 roundup review on TH). Just goes to show that all the "DUAL BIOS RAWWR!" they tout so much is just hollow marketing.


----------



## shanbcn

Which P67 Asus MB will be right for me? I dont want crossfire or sli in future and will be overcloking i5 2500k. I dont want maximum posible overlock. Just maximum stable enough overlock. Like 4.0 GHz overlock for i7 920 on 1356 MB, but for i5 2500k you can get it to 4.5ghz without much problem right?

And also which ram to get? 1600 or even better speed?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shanbcn*


Which P67 Asus MB will be right for me? I dont want crossfire or sli in future and will be overcloking i5 2500k. I dont want maximum posible overlock. Just maximum stable enough overlock. Like 4.0 GHz overlock for i7 920 on 1356 MB, but for i5 2500k you can get it to 4.5ghz without much problem right?


If you are certain you won't go Crossfire or SLI, then the ASUS P8P67 3.0 (The one we call 'Vanilla') is a good choice.

I think almost all 2500K's will do 4.5GHz pretty easy. A cheap aircooler like the CM Hyper 212+ will suffice for that, and even more.


----------



## jl_1978

I've been trying to overclock my 2500k with a Corsair A70 air cooler using the overclock settings given on the first page (except VCCIO = 1.15V). I also reduced the offset to +0.02. When I used +0.04 @4700MHz my Vcore was hitting almost 1.43V and my hottest cores were hitting 87C on the Intel Burn Test. Anyways, at +0.02, I passed 12 runs of Intel Burn Test on maximum, but Prime blend gave me a BSOD after about 2 hours. I tried reducing the clock to 4600MHz, and Prime still crashed after 8 hours. I reduced it again to 4500MHz and everything is stable. Even at 4500MHz and +0.02 offset, my Vcore still gets to almost 1.39V. Do I just have a bad CPU that needs higher voltages? Is 4500MHz likely my maximum?
Another question. At 4500MHz, my max temps on Prime blend were 61, 70, 70, 63. On Intel Burn, they were 71, 82, 82, 75. Does that sound right for the A70? I was expecting slightly lower temps.

Thanks!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jl_1978*


I've been trying to overclock my 2500k with a Corsair A70 air cooler using the overclock settings given on the first page (except VCCIO = 1.15V). I also reduced the offset to +0.02. When I used +0.04 @4700MHz my Vcore was hitting almost 1.43V and my hottest cores were hitting 87C on the Intel Burn Test. Anyways, at +0.02, I passed 12 runs of Intel Burn Test on maximum, but Prime blend gave me a BSOD after about 2 hours. I tried reducing the clock to 4600MHz, and Prime still crashed after 8 hours. I reduced it again to 4500MHz and everything is stable. Even at 4500MHz and +0.02 offset, my Vcore still gets to almost 1.39V. Do I just have a bad CPU that needs higher voltages? Is 4500MHz likely my maximum?
Another question. At 4500MHz, my max temps on Prime blend were 61, 70, 70, 63. On Intel Burn, they were 71, 82, 82, 75. Does that sound right for the A70? I was expecting slightly lower temps.

Thanks!


What's your room temp?


----------



## orlywutlol

How many of you are using manual vcore over offset and whats your reasoning? I did a quick 15 - 20min test with manual and it seemed like I could be more stable with less vcore over the offset. I could be wrong though?

Another question is how many of you are running at your full overclock with no ramp down with speed step or any of the power saving features?


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Sandybridge has officially been ordered, and I should see it by Monday. Thanks for helping me make my mobo decision. For those interested, I went with the pro rev 3.1. Apparently they're basically identical though.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Sandybridge has officially been ordered, and I should see it by Monday. Thanks for helping me make my mobo decision. For those interested, I went with the pro rev 3.1. Apparently they're basically identical though.


Nice, I love my 3.1. And according to the reviews the 3.1 should be faster on USB3 when using an SSD.


----------



## jl_1978

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


What's your room temp?


22C.

I was hoping to get 4.7GHz stable on my system, but it looks like I'm settling for 4.5GHz. Seems like others are able to run the same speed at much lower Vcore than me.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jl_1978*


22C.

I was hoping to get 4.7GHz stable on my system, but it looks like I'm settling for 4.5GHz. Seems like others are able to run the same speed at much lower Vcore than me.


You have a bad overclocker. Simple as that.

However, 4.5GHz is a nice 24/7 overclock anyway, so don't feel bad


----------



## shanbcn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


If you are certain you won't go Crossfire or SLI, then the ASUS P8P67 3.0 (The one we call 'Vanilla') is a good choice.

I think almost all 2500K's will do 4.5GHz pretty easy. A cheap aircooler like the CM Hyper 212+ will suffice for that, and even more.


Well i already got Prolimatech Megahalems so i can overclock it to 4.7ghz without much trouble right?

And which ram? DDR3 1600 should be enough?

And this is vanilla right?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131705

thanks


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shanbcn*


Well i already got Prolimatech Megahalems so i can overclock it to 4.7ghz without much trouble right?

And which ram? DDR3 1600 should be enough?

And this is vanilla right?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131705

thanks


You should be able to get pretty high on a Pro Mega.

This ram would be perfect for your board and low timings too. Extra bonus, it's on sale! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231445

And yes that is the vanilla board.


----------



## TFL Replica

Can anyone tell me what switching between Power Saving and Normal mode in the UEFI actually changes? Does it change anything that isn't available in "advanced" mode?


----------



## shanbcn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


You should be able to get pretty high on a Pro Mega.

This ram would be perfect for your board and low timings too. Extra bonus, it's on sale! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231445

And yes that is the vanilla board.


Thanks i will get that ram but not from Newegg since i live in Spain.

The site from where im getting the MB have price diffrence of just 12 euros between Asus P8P67 and Asus P8Z68-V. So i should get P8Z68-V anyway? Because its have integrated graphics card and can be helpfull in case the main card stopped working. Does it have any other advantge?

thanks


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TFL Replica*


Can anyone tell me what switching between Power Saving and Normal mode in the UEFI actually changes? Does it change anything that isn't available in "advanced" mode?


I think it's just a preset of the C states, not sure though, I usually run with advanced.


----------



## orlywutlol

Hey guys I have been doing some testing and decided to try a lower setting for LLC. I went from Ultra High down to Medium. Vcore went from 1.376v under load down to 1.304v. Lower vcore of course means lower temps. My load temps dropped a good 5-6c across the board. Before one of my cores always failed in prime95 after about a hour or so. I may be speaking too soon but as of right now I'm 45mins into it and yet to have an issue. Has anyone else tried this? Or could this just be a fluke?

I'm using TwoCables 4.8ghz template found in the first page. With the exception of the following..

By All Cores: 46
CPU offset Voltage: 0.035v


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14407731*
> Hey guys I have been doing some testing and decided to try a lower setting for LLC. I went from Ultra High down to Medium. Vcore went from 1.376v under load down to 1.304v. Lower vcore of course means lower temps. My load temps dropped a good 5-6c across the board. Before one of my cores always failed in prime95 after about a hour or so. I may be speaking too soon but as of right now I'm 45mins into it and yet to have an issue. Has anyone else tried this? Or could this just a fluke?
> 
> I'm using TwoCables 4.8ghz template found in the first page. With the exception of the following..
> 
> By All Cores: 46
> CPU offset Voltage: 0.035v


How strange... So you're saying Prime95 failed at 1.376v Vcore under load at LLC Ultra high, but is doing fine at a much lower Vcore, caused by a milder LLC??


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14408053*
> How strange... So you're saying Prime95 failed at 1.376v Vcore under load at LLC Ultra high, but is doing fine at a much lower Vcore, caused by a milder LLC??


Indeed! Very strange. It's still running as of right now coming up on 2 hours. I would have had a stopped worker by now.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14408128*
> Indeed! Very strange. It's still running as of right now coming up on 2 hours. I would have had a stopped worker by now.


I just tried this using my 4.7GHz preset. Using LLC at Ultra High and Offset at + 0.005. I tried dropping LLC to medium. Prime95 Blend failed at once.

Are you sure you're CPU is not downclocking or something? I have disabled C3/C6 and are using By Per Cores. (Not adjustable in OS)


----------



## munaim1

Hey turrican, club so far is looking fab, loving the first few posts, very informative!!! Keep it up bud


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14408186*
> Hey turrican, club so far is looking fab, loving the first few posts, very informative!!! Keep it up bud


Thanks mate







Glad to know you're happy with it


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14408176*
> I just tried this using my 4.7GHz preset. Using LLC at Ultra High and Offset at + 0.005. I tried dropping LLC to medium. Prime95 Blend failed at once.
> 
> Are you sure you're CPU is not downclocking or something? I have disabled C3/C6 and are using By Per Cores. (Not adjustable in OS)


Hmm I'm sure its not downclocking. I have my offset set to +0.035v though. Also I do have C3/C6 set to AUTO but I am using By All Cores. Not by per core. Will this make a difference?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14408215*
> Hmm I'm sure its not downclocking. I have my offset set to +0.035v though. Also I do have C3/C6 set to AUTO but I am using By All Cores. Not by per core. Will this make a difference?


I too will try By All Cores, C3/C6 at Auto and try dropping my LLC using the same Offset again, to see if I can replicate your results.


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14408242*
> I too will try By All Cores, C3/C6 at Auto and try dropping my LLC using the same Offset again, to see if I can replicate your results.


Alright. Well see what happens.. Could be a fluke. I bet if I stopped prime restarted the computer and tried again it would BSOD.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14408251*
> Alright. Well see what happens.. Could be a fluke. I bet if I stopped prime restarted the computer and tried again it would BSOD.


It failed at once again, in my setup. So something strange must be going on with your system...


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14408282*
> It failed at once again, in my setup. So something strange must be going on with your system...


Yeah I dont know what else to say. I'm going to stop it and restart. See what happens.

Here's a screen shot.


----------



## turrican9

*orlywutlol*

Try to use AiSuite II and look in 'Monitor' at what clock frequencies each core use under load


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14408356*
> *orlywutlol*
> 
> Try to use AiSuite II and look in 'Monitor' at what clock frequencies each core use under load


I dont have it installed. Ill install it now.

EDIT: Installed now. Each core is running at the full 100.0 x 46 (4.6ghz) and is at 100% load.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14408374*
> I dont have it installed. Ill install it now.
> 
> EDIT: Installed now. Each core is running at the full 100.0 x 46 (4.6ghz) and is at 100% load.


Then I don't understand how you could fail at a higher load Vcore using LLC at Ultra High...









Edit: What bios are you on? I'm at 1850 Beta


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14408619*
> Then I don't understand how you could fail at a higher load Vcore using LLC at Ultra High...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: What bios are you on? I'm at 1850 Beta


I dont understand either. I just recently updated to the 1850 Beta.


----------



## NRD

Just ordered a new i5 rig tonight with the P8P67 Pro as the base. Please add me







Can't wait to get it!


----------



## jamborhgini313

i bought a p8z68 v non pro version mobo. still unopened because im still trying to decide if its the right board? should i return it and get the pro? owners of p8z68 v i wanna know whats your experiences and opinions on the mobo


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


i bought a p8z68 v non pro version mobo. still unopened because im still trying to decide if its the right board? should i return it and get the pro? owners of p8z68 v i wanna know whats your experiences and opinions on the mobo












Only difference is the sata ports and Audio, apart from that it's pretty identical.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*











Only difference is the sata ports and Audio, apart from that it's pretty identical.


thanks for the chart. anyways, i've been hearing reviews that it doesn't support raid? because i need raid for my HDD's and am not quite yet ready for a SSD


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


This ram would be perfect for your board and low timings too. Extra bonus, it's on sale! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231445


I payed $100 for that ram back in late march, and it was $20 off







BTW, timings don't make much of a difference in benchmarks, and have nearly zero real world performance benefit(for SB anyways). I recently learned this AnandTech.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shanbcn*


Thanks i will get that ram but not from Newegg since i live in Spain.

The site from where im getting the MB have price diffrence of just 12 euros between Asus P8P67 and Asus P8Z68-V. So i should get P8Z68-V anyway? Because its have integrated graphics card and can be helpfull in case the main card stopped working. Does it have any other advantge?

thanks


Before you get any RAM for Sandy Bridge, i highly recommend giving this review a good read. You will see that low timings aren't worth extra money, and that 1600MHz is the best price/performance. But if you want a performance boost(quite small), then get 1866MHz, or 2133MHz RAM.

For the motherboard ask yourself this: Do i need/want those extra features? I personally would buy the Z68 Pro over my P67 Pro(but it wasn't out when i bought mine) for the Lucid Virtu, and integrated graphics. None are really needed for me, but the Lucid Virtu does give a slight performance boost(not sure if its worth the money) and i can still use my CPU's intregrated graphics when i don't have a discrete GPU(e.g. just sold GPU and waiting for new one to arrive, or RMA). Also, the Z68 has SSD caching which may or may not make a difference for you. It wouldn't help me because i don't have an SSD, and ill be buying one that is 240GB when it costs ~$300.


----------



## shanbcn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


I payed $100 for that ram back in late march, and it was $20 off







BTW, timings don't make much of a difference in benchmarks, and have nearly zero real world performance benefit(for SB anyways). I recently learned this AnandTech.

Before you get any RAM for Sandy Bridge, i highly recommend giving this review a good read. You will see that low timings aren't worth extra money, and that 1600MHz is the best price/performance. But if you want a performance boost(quite small), then get 1866MHz, or 2133MHz RAM.

For the motherboard ask yourself this: Do i need/want those extra features? I personally would buy the Z68 Pro over my P67 Pro(but it wasn't out when i bought mine) for the Lucid Virtu, extra phases, and integrated graphics. None are really needed for me, but the Lucid Virtu does give a slight performance boost(not sure if its worth the money) and i can still use my CPU's intregrated graphics when i don't have a discrete GPU(e.g. just sold GPU and waiting for new one to arrive, or RMA). Also, the Z68 has SSD caching which may or may not make a difference for you. It wouldn't help me because i don't have an SSD, and ill be buying one that is 240GB when it costs ~$300.


Diffrence between Asus P8Z68-V and Asus P8Z68-V PRO is 15 euros from where im buying. Now i think integrated graphics chip is nice features just in case your main card stopped working or you want to replace it.

I also got SSD 60gb for my OS. So which version should i chose? Pro o normal?

thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NRD*


Just ordered a new i5 rig tonight with the P8P67 Pro as the base. Please add me







Can't wait to get it!


Added. Welcome


----------



## TFL Replica

Just look at the amount of thought Asrock have put into their motherboards!
http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.as...xtreme4%20Gen3

Is ASUS about to get dethroned by its own child?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TFL Replica*


Just look at the amount of thought Asrock have put into their motherboards!
http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.as...xtreme4%20Gen3

Is ASUS about to get dethroned by its own child?


Wow... Like the Front USB 3.0 bracket with an SSD/HDD Rack. And 'C.C.O. provides the flexible option to adopt three different CPU cooler types, Socket LGA 775*, LGA 1155 and LGA 1156.'

Lot's of stuff here...


----------



## chippy1

I have had my Asus P8Z68-V just 3 days and so far had problems as when in windows it restarts it self after about 20 mins so will return this board and replace it with asrock my self.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chippy1*


I have had my Asus P8Z68-V just 3 days and so far had problems as when in windows it restarts it self after about 20 mins so will return this board and replace it with asrock my self.


I've had mine runnung fine for the last week...did you update to the newest bios and drivers?


----------



## jl_1978

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


You have a bad overclocker. Simple as that.

However, 4.5GHz is a nice 24/7 overclock anyway, so don't feel bad










Yeah, I don't mind 4.5GHz for 24/7. I'm able to get it stable with 1.35V (Offset to +0.005V). I'm just surprised that at 1.43V (Offset to +0.04V), Intel Burn Test can run on maximum for 12 iterations at 4.7GHz and 4.6GHz, but Prime fails both. I figured increasing the voltage that much should've been able to squeeze an extra 100MHz out


----------



## chippy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


I've had mine runnung fine for the last week...did you update to the newest bios and drivers?


Well it started from day 1 but have tried even the latest bios 0606 but this only happens when i enable the TPU switch, if i disable its fine.

Also tried all latest drivers.


----------



## chippy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


I've had mine runnung fine for the last week...did you update to the newest bios and drivers?


Do you have your Tpu switch enabled ?


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chippy1*


Do you have your Tpu switch enabled ?


I think...heres a pic, they are both pushed up. Also I have Bios 0501


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*


Hey guys I have been doing some testing and decided to try a lower setting for LLC. I went from Ultra High down to Medium. Vcore went from 1.376v under load down to 1.304v. Lower vcore of course means lower temps. My load temps dropped a good 5-6c across the board. Before one of my cores always failed in prime95 after about a hour or so. I may be speaking too soon but as of right now I'm 45mins into it and yet to have an issue. Has anyone else tried this? Or could this just be a fluke?

I'm using TwoCables 4.8ghz template found in the first page. With the exception of the following..

By All Cores: 46
CPU offset Voltage: 0.035v


Then I recommend using a lower Offset with LLC back to Ultra High. I mean if the higher core voltage is causing instability, then I think this is a better solution than staying with that high of an Offset for such a small overclock.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chippy1*


Well it started from day 1 but have tried even the latest bios 0606 but this only happens when i enable the TPU switch, if i disable its fine.

Also tried all latest drivers.


Have you changed any settings in the UEFI at all? If so, then what have you changed?


----------



## chippy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Then I recommend using a lower Offset with LLC back to Ultra High. I mean if the higher core voltage is causing instability, then I think this is a better solution than staying with that high of an Offset for such a small overclock.

Have you changed any settings in the UEFI at all? If so, then what have you changed?


Not changed any just left it at stock.


----------



## Sean Webster

When it shuts down does it shut down when while in use ex. playing a game or browsin the web? Or if you are watching a video or away from it? B/c it could be your windows power options...go to power options>change paln settings>advanced>Hard disk and make sure "Turn off hard disk after" is set to never.


----------



## liskawc

might inquire for some help please

a friend of mine (not me) has p8p67 le mobo with a 2600 chip in it (also 4G of ram and a low end gpu) and he is using it to gather a live feed from a camera via firewire. but he has a problem, the firewire only has a bandwidth of around 130Mbit/s which is roughly 1/3 of what it should have. He is running win xp sp3.

when he tries to up the sample rate on the camera (which is what he needs to do), the pc laggs and he doesnt get the needed data from the firewire port. note that this same camera worked on his older core2duo dual core (dunno which mobo or cpu tho) up to the firewire limit.

he did the basic troubleshooting (drivers, reconnecting the gpus, usb peripherals-mouse and keyboard, checking if the correct speed of firewire is set in registry) but he could not solve the problem

so i was hoping if anyone of you guys has similar problems with this board or is it just him? any advice or solutions?


----------



## chippy1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;14415710*
> When it shuts down does it shut down when while in use ex. playing a game or browsin the web? Or if you are watching a video or away from it? B/c it could be your windows power options...go to power options>change paln settings>advanced>Hard disk and make sure "Turn off hard disk after" is set to never.


My power option is on performance but have also disabled hard drives from turning off.
Will give a try and report back.


----------



## chippy1

I just been thinking about the problem and i dont think its the hard drives turning off because there set to turn off after 20 mins but some times it can be an hour before pc shut down and restarts.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chippy1;14416385*
> I just been thinking about the problem and i dont think its the hard drives turning off because there set to turn off after 20 mins but some times it can be an hour before pc shut down and restarts.


It might be the power supply.

So, what is the brand and model of it?


----------



## chippy1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14417480*
> It might be the power supply.
> 
> So, what is the brand and model of it?


Same one i was using in my I5 750 setup 650watt but if it was that why dosent it do it when TPU is disabled.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chippy1;14417658*
> Same one i was using in my I5 750 setup 650watt but if it was that why dosent it do it when TPU is disabled.


I do not know which PSU you had back then.

What is the brand and model number please?

You are getting random restarts, and so there's a chance that the PSU might be to blame. So please just tell me what I'm asking.


----------



## chippy1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14417697*
> I do not know which PSU you had back then.
> 
> What is the brand and model number please?
> 
> You are getting random restarts, and so there's a chance that the PSU might be to blame. So please just tell me what I'm asking.


This one

http://www.be-quiet.net/be-quiet.net/index.php?StoryID=31&ProductID=78&websiteLang=en


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chippy1;14418014*
> This one
> 
> http://www.be-quiet.net/be-quiet.net/index.php?StoryID=31&ProductID=78&websiteLang=en


I was just reading up on this TPU switch, and it turns out that enabling it is _supposed_ to automatically overclock the system a little bit. So I say just leave it disabled and overclock manually. I mean, let's disregard the fact that the system restarts after a while when it's enabled because it's much better to just overclock the system manually instead of trusting the board to do it for you. That's like building a system and then paying The Geek Squad to overclock it for you.

However, do you also have the EPU switch set to Enabled? If so, then disable it.


----------



## jamborhgini313

anyone having troubles with z68-v with ram slots? Mine would not post at all when placing the ram sticks in the recommended slots.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


anyone having troubles with z68-v with ram slots? Mine would not post at all when placing the ram sticks in the recommended slots.


Do you mean when the sticks were in the blue slots?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Do you mean when the sticks were in the blue slots?


yeah, thats what asus recommended but my rig never posted. only 1 stick on the 4th slot would post. then i tried the other one that didnt work on the same slot and it booted. right now im on the 3rd slot (black) and 4th slot (blue). idk if dual channel is even kicking in. I'm thinking of returning this board although its a very nice board


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


yeah, thats what asus recommended but my rig never posted. only 1 stick on the 4th slot would post. then i tried the other one that didnt work on the same slot and it booted. right now im on the 3rd slot (black) and 4th slot (blue). idk if dual channel is even kicking in. I'm thinking of returning this board although its a very nice board


I just thought of this: what is your memory's voltage rated for? If it is 1.65V, then the VCCIO must be no less than 1.15000V.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Its 1.65v. And I will try putting it at 1.15


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Its 1.65v. And I will try putting it at 1.15


Ok cool. I'll be here!

*Edit:* do you mean you're going to try putting the VCCIO at 1.15000V?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Yeah. Ok popped it in both blue slots, not posting. Same exact thing. Red led comes on, I run memok, it blinks and restarts a couple of times then the light stays on no post. Same with black slots just now


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Yeah. Ok popped it in both blue slots, not posting. Same exact thing. Red led comes on, I run memok, it blinks and restarts a couple of times then the light stays on no post.


Is the UEFI set to 1.65V for the DRAM Voltage and 1.15000V for the VCCIO now?

If so, then have you toggled either the physical EPU or TPU switches on the board? I mean, both should be set to Disabled (only the manual can tell you which way is enabled and which way is disabled).


----------



## jamborhgini313

How do I set the uefi volts?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


How do I set the uefi volts?


By going into the UEFI and setting them.

Are you using ASUS Suite II instead?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


By going into the UEFI and setting them.

Are you using ASUS Suite II instead?


Idk...I'm at the Advanced Options. I don't think I even have that suite thing but I looked everywhere for the UEFI thing in the Ai Tweaker tab but found nothing


----------



## TwoCables

In the Ai Tweaker in the UEFI, scroll down to display the part where VCCIO Voltage is located. Both DRAM Voltage and VCCIO Voltage are next to each other.

It doesn't have an adjustment for VCCSA, so this board handles it automatically. So we're fine for the VCCSA.


----------



## InfamousLegend

Hello everyone, here's to my first post in this thread. I would like to join the club but am afraid I have missed where the requirements are posted in that giant wall of text. I already have my Mobo and I'm simply waiting on parts until tomorrow. If pics are needed just say so, I have the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO motherboard.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Ok I set it to 1.65 and 1.15 for the vccio but same thing..this is annoying


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Ok I set it to 1.65 and 1.15 for the vccio but same thing..this is annoying


Do either of the sticks work in the first blue slot?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Do either of the sticks work in the first blue slot?


Nope. Only 3rd and 4th slot. I think im gonna exchange this for the Pro or something. I don't have alot of choices cause I got this at frys. It's either the P8Z68-V,Pro or MSI. No way I'm going for MSI


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Nope. Only 3rd and 4th slot. I think im gonna exchange this for the Pro or something. I don't have alot of choices cause I got this at frys. It's either the P8Z68-V,Pro or MSI. No way I'm going for MSI


ha, I don't blame you for avoiding MSI.

The P8PZ68-V Pro will impress you.

(yeah, I am basically saying that I think the first blue slot is dead)


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


ha, I don't blame you for avoiding MSI.

The P8PZ68-V Pro will impress you.

(yeah, I am basically saying that I think the first blue slot is dead)


It's weird the 1st black slot doesn't work either. It would have been the perfect board for me


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


It's weird the 1st black slot doesn't work either. It would have been the perfect board for me










Yeah, but once this is all over, you'll end up being very glad you went with an ASUS board for Sandy Bridge.


----------



## ShadowSkill

That is freaking hilarious! BOX PC! Epic win!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShadowSkill*


That is freaking hilarious! BOX PC! Epic win!


What are you talking about?


----------



## chippy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I was just reading up on this TPU switch, and it turns out that enabling it is _supposed_ to automatically overclock the system a little bit. So I say just leave it disabled and overclock manually. I mean, let's disregard the fact that the system restarts after a while when it's enabled because it's much better to just overclock the system manually instead of trusting the board to do it for you. That's like building a system and then paying The Geek Squad to overclock it for you.

However, do you also have the EPU switch set to Enabled? If so, then disable it.


Thanks for your help please could you suggest some overclocking setting please.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chippy1*


Thanks for your help please could you suggest some overclocking setting please.


Are you saying that it's working perfectly now?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Yeah, but once this is all over, you'll end up being very glad you went with an ASUS board for Sandy Bridge.


Fasho man I'm already liking the board. Overclocking is easy as hell and its very stable! Now just need a board that posts with dual channel ram


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Fasho man I'm already liking the board. Overclocking is easy as hell and its very stable! Now just need a board that posts with dual channel ram










No kidding!


----------



## chippy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Are you saying that it's working perfectly now?


No not at all i was just asking for some overclocking settings thats all.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chippy1*


No not at all i was just asking for some overclocking settings thats all.


Not until we get it working perfectly. I mean why should we put the carriage before the horse?

Now I still don't know the answers to my questions, so here's what I said again:

I was just reading up on this TPU switch, and it turns out that enabling it is supposed to automatically overclock the system a little bit. So I say just leave it disabled and overclock manually. I mean, let's disregard the fact that the system restarts after a while when it's enabled because it's much better to just overclock the system manually instead of trusting the board to do it for you. That's like building a system and then paying The Geek Squad to overclock it for you.

However, do you also have the EPU switch set to Enabled? If so, then disable it.


----------



## chippy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Not until we get it working perfectly. I mean why should we put the carriage before the horse?

Now I still don't know the answers to my questions, so here's what I said again:

I was just reading up on this TPU switch, and it turns out that enabling it is supposed to automatically overclock the system a little bit. So I say just leave it disabled and overclock manually. I mean, let's disregard the fact that the system restarts after a while when it's enabled because it's much better to just overclock the system manually instead of trusting the board to do it for you. That's like building a system and then paying The Geek Squad to overclock it for you.

However, do you also have the EPU switch set to Enabled? If so, then disable it.


EPU switch is disabled.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chippy1*


EPU switch is disabled.


So, are both EPU and TPU switches disabled right now?

(I know you want to get right to overclocking, but there's no point if your system isn't working perfectly - it's like building a house on quicksand or something)


----------



## chippy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


So, are both EPU and TPU switches disabled right now?

(I know you want to get right to overclocking, but there's no point if your system isn't working perfectly - it's like building a house on quicksand or something)


Yes both EPU and TPU disabled and no restarts.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chippy1*


Yes both EPU and TPU disabled and no restarts.


If it's definitely not restarting anymore, then you're free to overclock it. Otherwise, you should speak up now.


----------



## chippy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


If it's definitely not restarting anymore, then you're free to overclock it. Otherwise, you should speak up now.










If i leave both EPU and TPU disabled then it will not restart in windows at all but if i enable TPU it definetly will restart.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chippy1*


If i leave both EPU and TPU disabled then it will not restart in windows at all but if i enable TPU it definetly will restart.


Oh good.









I'm running on fumes right now, so the best advice I can contribute for now is to raise the multiplier (and only the multiplier) to your desired overclock. If it doesn't work, then it will need a little more core voltage.

My brain is about ready to pass out.


----------



## chippy1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Oh good.









I'm running on fumes right now, so the best advice I can contribute for now is to raise the multiplier (and only the multiplier) to your desired overclock. If it doesn't work, then it will need a little more core voltage.

My brain is about ready to pass out.










Ok will try and report back later as im at work right now.


----------



## InfamousLegend

Guys, I just got all my stuff from Newegg and I'm going to need some help putting this system together, all information on my rig is in my sig.

I'll setup the boxes to look all pretty and I'll upload a photo here in a minutes. Gotta scarf down some McDonalds too.


----------



## shanbcn

ASUS P8P67 133 euros, P8Z68-v 145 and P8Z68-v pro 163 euros. Considiring the prices i should go for P8Z68-v 145 euros?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfamousLegend;14427644*
> Guys, I just got all my stuff from Newegg and I'm going to need some help putting this system together, all information on my rig is in my sig.
> 
> I'll setup the boxes to look all pretty and I'll upload a photo here in a minutes. Gotta scarf down some McDonalds too.


Cool









My order of doing things is;

1. Put in the CPU. (when doing up catch, sounds like crushing eggs)








2. Install CPU cooler (I use blob of TIM about size of this smiley)







Plug in cooler fan to mobo








3. Fit Ram (On my mobo, Ram locks from one end only!)
4. Fit mobo into case using 9 screws (after fitting the IO shield and 9 standoffs first in the case)
5. Connect power switch, power indicator, HDD activity and reset switch leads. Case wires








6. SATA leads
7. USB leads
8. Power leads


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5;14428300*
> Cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My order of doing things is;
> 
> 1. Put in the CPU. (when doing up catch, sounds like crushing eggs)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Install CPU cooler (I use blob of TIM about size of this smiley)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plug in cooler fan to mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Fit Ram (On my mobo, Ram locks from one end only!)
> 4. Fit mobo into case using 9 screws (after fitting the IO shield and 9 standoffs first in the case)
> 5. Connect power switch, power indicator, HDD activity and reset switch leads. Case wires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6. SATA leads
> 7. USB leads
> 8. Power leads


I usually do RAM before CPU cooler. Just a habit but sometimes that's the only way to do it.


----------



## InfamousLegend

Already have Windows 7 Installing, at 24% on Expanding Windows Files. Should be up and running here in under and hour.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14428467*
> I usually do RAM before CPU cooler. Just a habit but sometimes that's the only way to do it.


I did fit my Ram first! But had to take it back off, to fit my cooler








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfamousLegend;14430193*
> Already have Windows 7 Installing, at 24% on Expanding Windows Files. Should be up and running here in under and hour.


Nice one


----------



## jamborhgini313

I went to frys today and I was thinking of exchanging my mobo for a new one. They didn't have any P8Z68's left. Guess I'll have to live with this board for a little bit


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shanbcn*


ASUS P8P67 133 euros, P8Z68-v 145 and P8Z68-v pro 163 euros. Considiring the prices i should go for P8Z68-v 145 euros?


Well, can you get the P8P67 Pro? If so, then what would it cost?

Either way, I'll just say that it really comes down to the features (it's more of a matter of practicality when considering good boards like these).


----------



## slimex

Hello!

ATTENTION TO ALL OWNERS OF P8Z68 DELUXE BOARD!!

The new BIOS ver. 0603 seems to recalibrate the CPU temp sensor. So I wondered, why my CPU stayed so cool all the time in AI Suite II after updating. Temp was about 5Â°C - 6Â°C lower than before (about 65Â°C instead of 70Â°C under load). A quick look at the core temps using Coretemp revealed, why. Core Temps were the same like before the update, fluctuating between 67Â°C and 73Â°C. So there must have been made changes to the behavior of this sensor.


----------



## TwoCables

Whoa. I finally disabled Full Screen Logo! lol Well, I disabled it once before but I didn't notice a difference. Although, I didn't really test it all that much either. I just kinda went, _"Meh. It feels the same I guess, so I'll leave it enabled because I like being reminded of what I have"_.

However, I disabled it again because I was bored and decided to find out if there really is a difference. Well, guess what: there *is*. The very first thing I noticed is that the UEFI loads much faster when pressing Del. It's a _fraction_ of the time.

On top of all that, my reboot time is 1Â½ or 2 seconds shorter now! I have a very tiny .vbs script that just restarts Windows and then loads immediately on startup and says "Your computer restarts in ## seconds". It used to sometimes say 26 and sometimes say 27, but now it always says 25. hehe









So, no more Full Screen Logo for me! Wow.

Y'know, I always used to just disable this out of habit with older systems, but I didn't do it with this one because of how different and faster it is. Oh well. Lesson learned, system improved.


----------



## Sistum Id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


anyone having troubles with z68-v with ram slots? Mine would not post at all when placing the ram sticks in the recommended slots.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Yeah. Ok popped it in both blue slots, not posting. Same exact thing. Red led comes on, I run memok, it blinks and restarts a couple of times then the light stays on no post. Same with black slots just now


Same thing happens to me as well.

I was doing some stress testing on the 2600k and went to the bathroom. I took the manual for some reading material. Scanned over some pages and noticed what Asus recommends for the ram slots.

I came back and switched them from the black slots to the light blue and no post. That red led would come on by the GPU slot. Manual says it's indicating a problem with the GPU. At the time, I had no video card and was using on board. Finally after 10 minutes, I got it to boot but only with the ram in the black slots.

I checked CPU-Z and it says it's in dual mode, any guesses why Asus recommends the blue over the black? Clearance issues with a cooler?


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Whoa. I finally disabled Full Screen Logo! lol Well, I disabled it once before but I didn't notice a difference. Although, I didn't really test it all that much either. I just kinda went, _"Meh. It feels the same I guess, so I'll leave it enabled because I like being reminded of what I have"_.

However, I disabled it again because I was bored and decided to find out if there really is a difference. Well, guess what: there *is*. The very first thing I noticed is that the UEFI loads much faster when pressing Del. It's a _fraction_ of the time.

On top of all that, my reboot time is 1Â½ or 2 seconds shorter now! I have a very tiny .vbs script that just restarts Windows and then loads immediately on startup and says "Your computer restarts in ## seconds". It used to sometimes say 26 and sometimes say 27, but now it always says 25. hehe










So, no more Full Screen Logo for me! Wow.

Y'know, I always used to just disable this out of habit with older systems, but I didn't do it with this one because of how different and faster it is. Oh well. Lesson learned, system improved.










Faster access to UEFI is good, I'll probably follow suit but I couldn't care less for boot times. It doesn't occur often enough for me.


----------



## turrican9

If it gives much faster access to bios by Disabling full screen logo then it's a win for me.


----------



## SolidForce

Still having sleep problems. Will never come back to Windows. Annoying to say the least.

-SF


----------



## Thalys

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


Hello!

ATTENTION TO ALL OWNERS OF P8Z68 DELUXE BOARD!!

The new BIOS ver. 0603 seems to recalibrate the CPU temp sensor. So I wondered, why my CPU stayed so cool all the time in AI Suite II after updating. Temp was about 5Â°C - 6Â°C lower than before (about 65Â°C instead of 70Â°C under load). A quick look at the core temps using Coretemp revealed, why. Core Temps were the same like before the update, fluctuating between 67Â°C and 73Â°C. So there must have been made changes to the behavior of this sensor.


Thanks for letting us know.


----------



## dlerch

Hey gang,

I've been a LGA775 user for about 2 years, p5q pro turbo with q9550. I'm getting fed up with the limitations of the board, having trouble getting to OC to 4.0ghz due to ram limitations. I am considering parting out my old 775 setup and opting for an i7 2600k build. So whats the deal with p67 and p68? Long term wise, which is better for upgrades and OC ability?

The equity in my cpu now is still pretty high, I can get 200 bucks for it easily. And my mobo and ram would sell as well for not a bad price, making my upgrade pretty cheap. (around 230 bucks or so if I sell some of my parts and spares on ebay)

So what should I do?

I'm thinking:

-ASUS P8P67 DELUXE (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67
-CORSAIR Vengeance 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
-Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W

i may even sell my gtx 260s off for like 60 bucks each and just get a gtx460, and maybe a 2nd one later for SLI.

So what is the best lga standard to get? 1155 seems to be the best bet at the moment.

Also will my Cooler master GT V6 clear the heat syncs of the NB and the ram I want? I want to OC to about 4.2 to 4.4. I do NOT want to deal with ram timings and voltages. I want a fairly easy breezy OC.

EDIT: Also p67 or z68? Not sure what to get...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14437808*
> Hey gang,
> 
> I've been a LGA775 user for about 2 years, p5q pro turbo with q9550. I'm getting fed up with the limitations of the board, having trouble getting to OC to 4.0ghz due to ram limitations. I am considering parting out my old 775 setup and opting for an i7 2600k build. So whats the deal with p67 and p68? Long term wise, which is better for upgrades and OC ability?
> 
> The equity in my cpu now is still pretty high, I can get 200 bucks for it easily. And my mobo and ram would sell as well for not a bad price, making my upgrade pretty cheap. (around 230 bucks or so if I sell some of my parts and spares on ebay)
> 
> So what should I do?
> 
> I'm thinking:
> 
> -ASUS P8P67 DELUXE (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67
> -CORSAIR Vengeance 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
> -Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W
> 
> i may even sell my gtx 260s off for like 60 bucks each and just get a gtx460, and maybe a 2nd one later for SLI.
> 
> So what is the best lga standard to get? 1155 seems to be the best bet at the moment.
> 
> Also will my Cooler master GT V6 clear the heat syncs of the NB and the ram I want? I want to OC to about 4.2 to 4.4. I do NOT want to deal with ram timings and voltages. I want a fairly easy breezy OC.


1155 is the way to go now. There are two popular chipsets for it- P67 and Z68. Only differences is that Z68 has a couple of extra features VS P67. You can read about them in the third post of this Club.

1155 have no Northbridge. Memcontroller ++ is integrated in the Core of Sandybridge CPU's.

Also, 1155 uses Dual channel mem and not triple channel. So no need for 3x4GB RAM. Go Dual only. Either 2 or 4 sticks.

Most popular boards seems to be the ASUS P8P67 PRO and ASUS P8Z68-V PRO. Deluxe versions has extra features not needed by most.

Also, 2500K is more popular VS 2600K. 2600K has Hyperthreading gives little gain other than folding or Video encoding.


----------



## dlerch

Thanks!

Here is a question for ya, does the p67 have voltage issues with ram like the old lga boards did? basically I could never run 4 slots of ram stable. Only two at a time.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14437981*
> Thanks!
> 
> Here is a question for ya, does the p67 have voltage issues with ram like the old lga boards did? basically I could never run 4 slots of ram stable. Only two at a time.


They work fine with 4 slots filled.

What I can tell you is that P5Q PRO Turbo you have is one of the most terrible boards for using 4 slots of RAM. I own that board myself.

I would suggest you buy 2x4GB of 1600 9-9-9-24-1.5v or 1600 8-8-8-24-1.5v RAM for Sandy. But there would be no problem going 4x4GB later down the road.

And remember, they recommend 1.5v RAM for Sandy.


----------



## turrican9

*dlerch*'

And by the way, If I were you I would try that GTX 260 SLI setup in a Sandy system. It will breath new life in those cards


----------



## ACHILEE5

Sandy Bridge, and the ASUS P8P67 Pro.
The choice of World Champions









Dirt 3, on-line time trial!


----------



## dlerch

Awesome, well I think I am sold. Last thing is, I want to make sure the heat-syncs of the ram don't touch my cooler. I want to run x4 of these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145346

Anyone have any troubles with massive heat syncs rubbing against the cm gt v6?

Yeah I'll hold off for a while before I sell them. They've stood the test of time for sure. main thing is, I want dx11 sometime down the road.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14438254*
> Awesome, well I think I am sold. Last thing is, I want to make sure the heat-syncs of the ram don't touch my cooler. I want to run x4 of these:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145346
> 
> Anyone have any troubles with massive heat syncs rubbing against the cm gt v6?
> 
> Yeah I'll hold off for a while before I sell them. They've stood the test of time for sure. main thing is, I want dx11 sometime down the road.


Looks to be problems










Source

Also, seems to be other problems...

http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/991105-v6-gt-p8p67-evo.html


----------



## turrican9

Found a cool comparison - *ASUS P8P67 5-Way Motherboard Roundup*


----------



## dlerch

Bummer, I really like my v6 gt. Oh well, what would you recommend? CM 212+ seems pretty popular. Can you run two 120s on it though? Or do you just run one?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14438478*
> Bummer, I really like my v6 gt. Oh well, what would you recommend? CM 212+ seems pretty popular. Can you run two 120s on it though? Or do you just run one?


CM 212+ is a very popular cooler and does it's job very well for the price they ask.

And yes, you can use one more 120mm for push/pull. Pretty pointless though, as it will maybe give you 1 or 2c drop on load. Not worth the added noise.

Also, with this cooler you can fill all RAM slots with Corsair Vengeance RAM.


----------



## dlerch

Thanks for the help. I am pretty much sold, still not convinced that I can get a stable OC with one click of a button. i will still probably rather OC manually. I've been reading about double posts/restarts. I'm also a little worried about the recall. Am I guaranteed to get a good one from newegg? I've never received a bad/doa product from them before. but a lot of the reviewers have been reporting problems.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14435055*
> Faster access to UEFI is good, I'll probably follow suit but I couldn't care less for boot times. It doesn't occur often enough for me.


I'm talking about reboot (or "restart") time, not the boot time. That's why I talked about the little .vbs script that tells me how long it takes for my computer to *re*start.

Besides, why would you *not* disable Full Screen Logo?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14435169*
> If it gives much faster access to bios by Disabling full screen logo then it's a win for me.


Amen!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14437808*
> Hey gang,
> 
> I've been a LGA775 user for about 2 years, p5q pro turbo with q9550. I'm getting fed up with the limitations of the board, having trouble getting to OC to 4.0ghz due to ram limitations. I am considering parting out my old 775 setup and opting for an i7 2600k build. So whats the deal with p67 and p68? Long term wise, which is better for upgrades and OC ability?


Concerning overclockability, it mostly depends on the CPU now. I mean, it's extremely different from socket 775.









Also, the only real reason for going with the 2600K over the 2500K is for HyperThreading. So if you aren't doing anything that takes advantage of it, then the 2500K is a much wiser purchase. Plus, the 2500K is usually $100 less than the 2600K.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14437808*
> The equity in my cpu now is still pretty high, I can get 200 bucks for it easily. And my mobo and ram would sell as well for not a bad price, making my upgrade pretty cheap. (around 230 bucks or so if I sell some of my parts and spares on ebay)
> 
> So what should I do?
> 
> I'm thinking:
> 
> -ASUS P8P67 DELUXE (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67
> -CORSAIR Vengeance 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
> -Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W
> 
> i may even sell my gtx 260s off for like 60 bucks each and just get a gtx460, and maybe a 2nd one later for SLI.
> 
> So what is the best lga standard to get? 1155 seems to be the best bet at the moment.
> 
> Also will my Cooler master GT V6 clear the heat syncs of the NB and the ram I want? I want to OC to about 4.2 to 4.4. I do NOT want to deal with ram timings and voltages. I want a fairly easy breezy OC.
> 
> EDIT: Also p67 or z68? Not sure what to get...


The P67 chipset is perfect for most of us while the Z68 chipset has a couple of features that you might be interested in. So compare, compare, compare.







Although, both chipsets are equal in terms of overclockability.

In regards to the specific motherboard: a motherboard like the P8P67 Deluxe is major overkill; it's best purchased by overclockers who plan on doing very extreme overclocking using sub-zero cooling. Even the plain P8P67 (not the LE, but just the plain P8P67) is said to be good enough for achieving 4.8GHz with air cooling!

Regarding your 260s: I recommend keeping them until you finish your upgrade to Sandy Bridge. I think you'll be surprised.







Plus, it will enable you to have a clearer idea of what graphics card you want to get (I'm assuming you will upgrade anyway just so you can take advantage of DX11).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14438254*
> Awesome, well I think I am sold. Last thing is, I want to make sure the heat-syncs of the ram don't touch my cooler. I want to run x4 of these:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145346
> 
> Anyone have any troubles with massive heat syncs rubbing against the cm gt v6?
> 
> Yeah I'll hold off for a while before I sell them. They've stood the test of time for sure. main thing is, I want dx11 sometime down the road.


Heatsink, not heat sync.









Anyway, 2 sticks are better than 4 for this very reason. For example: if I had purchased a kit that has 4 sticks in it, then I would not have been able to use all 4 of them because the Frio blocks the first black slot (the pushing fan blocks it). The heatspreader of these Ripjaws X series sticks is just high enough to be slightly in front of the fan that's pushing air through the Frio, and it's just _millimeters_ apart from it (in the first blue slot). So it's clear to me that even the shorter heatspreaders of the Ripjaws X are too high to have the first black slot populated.

So definitely get a 2-stick kit! Here's one that I highly recommend (this is not what I have):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231445

$59.99 shipped after the promo code, but it ends tomorrow!

This is a 2 x 4GB 1600MHz CL8 kit (1.5V!) of G.SKILL's Ripjaws X series with beautiful blue anodized heatspreaders that are perfect match to the blue heatsinks on these P8P67/P8Z68 boards. Their pictures do not do the color of these heatspreaders justice.

There's also this kit for $49.99 shipped that has the same specs, except with CL9 (this is currently a Shell Shocker):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428

These pics make the red heatspreaders look ugly, but they're beautiful in person. I have the 1866MHz version of this kit which has these red heatspreaders, and they're absolutely gorgeous. They even seem to be an excellent compliment to the blue heatsinks on the P8P67 EVO!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14439643*
> Thanks for the help. I am pretty much sold, still not convinced that I can get a stable OC with one click of a button. i will still probably rather OC manually.


Meh. I think every single one of us are overclocking manually (I don't know of anyone who is even using the software called ASUS Ai Suite II). After all, we are much better at overclocking than a machine.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14439643*
> I've been reading about double posts/restarts. I'm also a little worried about the recall. Am I guaranteed to get a good one from newegg? I've never received a bad/doa product from them before. but a lot of the reviewers have been reporting problems.


As long as you purchase a B3 (a.k.a. Rev. 3.0), then you'll get one.









I got my P8P67 EVO from Newegg, and it's working flawlessly!


----------



## turrican9

I think *dlerch* wants 16GB RAM, that's why he said 4 sticks...

8GB is plenty though..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14439834*
> I think *dlerch* wants 16GB RAM, that's why he said 4 sticks...
> 
> 8GB is plenty though..


Many people want 16GB while almost all of them only need 4 or 8 (some only need 2!).


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14439892*
> Many people want 16GB while almost all of them only need 4 or 8 (some only need 2!).


I've thought about going 16GB!









But, the only time I'd use 16GB of Ram, is when running Intel Burn test


----------



## turrican9

If one needed 16GB RAM for something... I wonder if it would suffice just using the Swap file on a SSD, since they are so fast. Of course, much slower VS RAM, but still much faster then a harddrive. Also the ability to write many things at the same time.


----------



## dlerch

Two Cables, you are awesome. You answered all my questions.

Those memory kits are nice, 2500k may work but I am a video editor. So HyperThreading is something I will more than likely utilize. Though saving 100 bucks is tempting. Also, when you are editing 4k or 2k raw footage, 16gb of ram is easily consumed.

Also not all the lower level P8P67 chip-sets have SLI support. I can use the SLI patch, though it was a nightmare getting it to work correctly with my p5q pro turbo, I'm sure it will work fine. I'm just curious if the patch causes instability. The pro and evo look pretty good, considering SLI support is a big seller for me. Even if I get a gtx 470 down the road I may want to pick up another because the price is right.

I'm going to stick with the 260s for now, i think that is good advice. I will eventually want dx11 support but it isn't a pressing need. Mainly I just want out of lga775 hell. So now I have some options. Ahhh decision time.

I'm embarrassed that I typed "heatsync." Generally I have pretty decent grammar, vernacular, and spelling. It's just one of those days. Where is my damn coffee!

Also, I plan to make this new rig a dual boot. One of my drives will have Lion on it, though I'm trying not to get ahead of myself. First thing first, get a stable OC with these parts.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14440046*
> If one needed 16GB RAM for something... I wonder if it would suffice just using the Swap file on a SSD, since they are so fast. Of course, much slower VS RAM, but still much faster then a harddrive. Also the ability to write many things at the same time.


Running full size page file here! And still have 30GB free on my OS SSD


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Two Cables, you are awesome. You answered all my questions.


Nah, OCN is awesome.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Those memory kits are nice, 2500k may work but I am a video editor. So HyperThreading is something I will more than likely utilize. Though saving 100 bucks is tempting. Also, when you are editing 4k or 2k raw footage, 16gb of ram is easily consumed.


Oh! Then by all means go for the 2600K. It will be fantastic for these uses with HyperThreading enabled!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Also not all the lower level P8P67 chip-sets have SLI support. I can use the SLI patch, though it was a nightmare getting it to work correctly with my p5q pro turbo, I'm sure it will work fine. I'm just curious if the patch causes instability. The pro and evo look pretty good, considering SLI support is a big seller for me. Even if I get a gtx 470 down the road I may want to pick up another because the price is right.

I'm going to stick with the 260s for now, i think that is good advice. I will eventually want dx11 support but it isn't a pressing need. Mainly I just want out of lga775 hell. So now I have some options. Ahhh decision time.


Plus, once you see the performance of the 260s with the upgrade to Sandy Bridge, you will have an even clearer idea of what you want to upgrade to because the performance will increase a bit!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


I'm embarrassed that I typed "heatsync." Generally I have pretty decent grammar, vernacular, and spelling. It's just one of those days. Where is my damn coffee!


hehe "...and please drop the vernacular". "Vernacular?! That's a _Derby_!"

2 points if you know what that's from.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Also, I plan to make this new rig a dual boot. One of my drives will have Lion on it, though I'm trying not to get ahead of myself. First thing first, get a stable OC with these parts.


Right on!


----------



## dlerch

Stooges, classic!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14440595*
> Stooges, classic!


hehehe 2 points!


----------



## Cosmic Collision

Hey guys, I've noticed since I've switched to offset voltage that when I run linx tests my vcore is higher than when I'm blend testing with prime. I know that I don't need the extra voltage since I've tested linx at the prime vcore using manual settings and it was stable with both.

What bios setting reflects this?


----------



## Zzari

New P8P67 Pro Rev 3.0 owner







2500k at 4.5GHz, loving the board!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cosmic Collision*


Hey guys, I've noticed since I've switched to offset voltage that when I run linx tests my vcore is higher than when I'm blend testing with prime. I know that I don't need the extra voltage since I've tested linx at the prime vcore using manual settings and it was stable with both.

What bios setting reflects this?


This is normal, however it could either be your LLC setting, or your C3 and C6 settings.


----------



## tryceo

Does the P8Z68-V motherboard have double post problems? Because the reviews on Newegg says they do, but the front page tells you how to fix it. I don't know if the fix will translate over to Z68.


----------



## SmellyMoot

Hello Overclock Community...

I have decided to write this thread simply due to the fact I am loosing my mind and am so frustrated that I have my newly built PC, which has been up and running for ONLY 1 month now... and now it doesn't even want to start up on me....

Last weekend on sunday I was gaming just simply playing Batman (cause I was bored) and decided to restart my computer... for no apparent reason but simply cause I felt like it... now I noticed on the restart that it was not the average and "NORMAL" restart... it had just shutdown... pretty damn fast after the logging off screen, and when I went to turn it back on.. it looked like for 1 split second it was going to start up, then BAM... shuts off completely it feels as though it has no juice in it to power... now I am running a P8P67 Mobo, and the LED on the motherboard is GREEN still.. it doesn't flash and it doesn't turn red either. it is GREEN.

I turned off the PSU, turned it back on and same thing.. unplugged the chord.. plugged it back in and same thing...

The case fans, CPU fan, and all of the LED's start up for less than one second but then shuts off completely it is literally less than 1 second... This is what Im running on this new PC i have just had for only 1 month.. NO DRAMA'S until now..

Case: 1 x Antec Twelve Hundred Full-Tower Gaming Case, Black - No PSU
- Advanced Cooling System

Power Supplie: 1 x OCZ 1000W Z Series - ATX 12V, EPS 12V, 135mm Fan, Modular Cables, SLI Ready, 80 PLUS Gold Certified
12xSATA, 6xPCI-E 6+2-Pin

Motherboard: 1 x ASUS P8P67-Evo B3 Motherboard
LGA1155, P67, 4xDDR3-2200, 3xPCI-Ex16 v2.0, 4xSATA-III, 4xSATA-II, 2xeSATA-II, RAID, 2xGigLAN, 8Chl-HD, USB3.0, Firewire, ATX

CPUs | Processor: 1 x Core i7 2600 Quad Core (3.40GHz - 3.80GHz Turbo, 850-1350MHz GPU) - LGA1155, 5.0 GT/s DMI, HTT, 8MB Cache, 32nm, 95W

Cooling: 1 x ThermalTake SpinQ CPU Cooler - 120.1mm Fan, 1600rpm, 28dBA

Memory - RAM: 1 x 8GB (2 x 4GB) PC3-12800 1600MHz DDR3 RAM - 9-9-9-24

Hard Drives - Internal: 1 x OCZ 120GB 2.5" Vertex 2 Solid State Disk
MLC, SATA-II Read 285MB/s, Write 275MB/s

CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Drive: 1 x 22x DVD+-RW Dual Layer DVD Burner

Video Card: 1 x Gigabyte GeForce GTX580 - 1536MB GDDR5 - (795MHz, 4008MHz)
384-bit, 2xDVI, 1xMini-HDMI, PCI-Ex16 v2.0, Fansink

Operating System: 1 x Microsoft Windows 7 - Professional - 64-Bit

I have done the Jumper thing for this motherboard, I have taken the battery out n waited abit put it back and almost everything has been taken out then back in... Ive swapped RAM sticks.. nothing.. GPU taken out and nothing still.. this is so frustrating.. I have paid $2,500 for this MACHINE without keyboard moniter and mouse and speakers.. and it hasn't even lasted me for one frikken month... Ive read on forums on what I can do I have pretty much done nearly everything I can comfortably do...

only thing is my PSU is a pretty damn good one.. but i dont really know if it normally starts ups traight away or it takes it about 2-3 seconds longer to start spinning but I took the case off to see if the fan starts spinning but it doesnt.. but it makes me think the green light on the motherboard tells me that power is being sent to the MoBo.. I dont know guys this is starting to do my head in... ive had to wait a week for this guy to come to my place to check it out but really its frustrating me cause ive spend so much money on it... sigh

do you think this failing of my PC could be due to overclocking? or stress testing? =\\


----------



## aeonsys

Good day, I have built an ASUS P8P67 Deluxe MB/i2500K CPU/8 Gb. system and would like to join this thread to read about how others are configuring and using this MB/CPU combination.

Thanks and regards,

Armand


----------



## Blackbass

Hey everyone. I'd like to join, just got the p8z68 deluxe and I'm looking forward to tinkering around with it. So add me please.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmellyMoot;14446013*
> Hello Overclock Community...
> 
> I have decided to write this thread simply due to the fact I am loosing my mind and am so frustrated that I have my newly built PC, which has been up and running for ONLY 1 month now... and now it doesn't even want to start up on me....
> 
> Last weekend on sunday I was gaming just simply playing Batman (cause I was bored) and decided to restart my computer... for no apparent reason but simply cause I felt like it... now I noticed on the restart that it was not the average and "NORMAL" restart... it had just shutdown... pretty damn fast after the logging off screen, and when I went to turn it back on.. it looked like for 1 split second it was going to start up, then BAM... shuts off completely it feels as though it has no juice in it to power... now I am running a P8P67 Mobo, and the LED on the motherboard is GREEN still.. it doesn't flash and it doesn't turn red either. it is GREEN.
> 
> I turned off the PSU, turned it back on and same thing.. unplugged the chord.. plugged it back in and same thing...
> 
> The case fans, CPU fan, and all of the LED's start up for less than one second but then shuts off completely it is literally less than 1 second... This is what Im running on this new PC i have just had for only 1 month.. NO DRAMA'S until now..
> 
> I have done the Jumper thing for this motherboard, I have taken the battery out n waited abit put it back and almost everything has been taken out then back in... Ive swapped RAM sticks.. nothing.. GPU taken out and nothing still.. this is so frustrating.. I have paid $2,500 for this MACHINE without keyboard moniter and mouse and speakers.. and it hasn't even lasted me for one frikken month... Ive read on forums on what I can do I have pretty much done nearly everything I can comfortably do...
> 
> only thing is my PSU is a pretty damn good one.. but i dont really know if it normally starts ups traight away or it takes it about 2-3 seconds longer to start spinning but I took the case off to see if the fan starts spinning but it doesnt.. but it makes me think the green light on the motherboard tells me that power is being sent to the MoBo.. I dont know guys this is starting to do my head in... ive had to wait a week for this guy to come to my place to check it out but really its frustrating me cause ive spend so much money on it... sigh
> 
> do you think this failing of my PC could be due to overclocking? or stress testing? =\


I had this same exact problem. I narrowed it down to the motherboard and now I'm RMAing it. Chances are, your problem is also the motherboard. I tried my PSU on another system and it lit up great.

My problem occurred when I installed a new heatsink on to the motherboard. It worked fine for a bit and then just died.


----------



## dlerch

Either RMA your motherboard, or try to put your stock cooler on. Good chance your SpinQ CPU Cooler mounting plate is installed incorrectly and is probably touching a solder point.


----------



## dlerch

Is anyone having any issues with RAM timings with this series? is the ram more or less plug and play with OC? I'm talking i7 2600k at 4.4ghz. I just dread RAM issues.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Is anyone having any issues with RAM timings with this series? is the ram more or less plug and play with OC? I'm talking i7 2600k at 4.4ghz. I just dread RAM issues.


Well, I am happy to report that I have had absolutely no problems so far.


----------



## Alex132

I find that the IMC of SB is a lot better than my old 965.
I can get to 1600Mhz stable now, whereas before I couldn't even touch it.


----------



## dlerch

Well what time of ram timings would you recommend? I'm tempted to get sofe sort of gksill CL9 set just to be safe


----------



## Alex132

RAM timings don't matter too much when gaming.
For price/performance I would recommend CL9 1600Mhz - 1866Mhz kit.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Well what time of ram timings would you recommend? I'm tempted to get sofe sort of gksill CL9 set just to be safe


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231445


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Well what time of ram timings would you recommend? I'm tempted to get sofe sort of gksill CL9 set just to be safe


*[bit-tech] The Best Memory for Sandy Bridge*

This article enabled me to confidently make an informed decision without being nervous about it.


----------



## AMD_Freak

What LLC setting are others using on the P67A UD5-b3 in the touch bios?
anyone have a SS of their settings in Touch bios they could post so I can kind of see the basic setups being old and this new fangled bios software Im kind of lost.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


*[bit-tech] The Best Memory for Sandy Bridge*

This article enabled me to confidently make an informed decision without being nervous about it.


Maybe you should mention that this review has been linked in the second post of this Club, for a long time


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*


What LLC setting are others using on the P67A UD5-b3 in the touch bios?
anyone have a SS of their settings in Touch bios they could post so I can kind of see the basic setups being old and this new fangled bios software Im kind of lost.


I think you're in the wrong thread.









However that's not to say that you are not welcome here, but we all own ASUS P8P67 and P8Z68 series boards.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Maybe you should mention that this review has been linked in the second post of this Club, for a long time











I could, but it's much easier for people to just stay right where they are and click.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I could, but it's much easier for people to just stay right where they are and click.










And what is that supposed to mean?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


And what is that supposed to mean?










It means I like to be convenient for people. Instead of telling them to go find it in the original post, I just do what I did because it's way more convenient (and I think it's friendlier).

It's nothing against the original post at all. People still see those things on their own, but some don't. So for those who don't, I just serve it up like that.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


It means I like to be convenient for people. Instead of telling them to go find it in the original post, I just do what I did because it's way more convenient (and I think it's friendlier).

It's nothing against the original post at all. People still see those things on their own, but some don't. So for those who don't, I just serve it up like that.










**Noted**


----------



## dlerch

Ah that's right, you are right two cables. For some reason I thought the ripsaw memory was CL5 but I was confused with some DDR2 stuff I bought last week, anyways I ordered it! I hope this goes better than my p5q pro turbo build.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I think you're in the wrong thread.









However that's not to say that you are not welcome here, but we all own ASUS P8P67 and P8Z68 series boards.

I could, but it's much easier for people to just stay right where they are and click.










I told ya im old cant even read where are my glasses... thats what happens when you hit the wrong tab.


----------



## jamborhgini313

I think I'm gonna take this motherboard back and hopefully get an exchange. I was gonna go get the V-Pro but i don't think its worth like an extra 40 bucks+ tax. Shame I love this mobo







I'll inform you what I'll end up with later


----------



## SmellyMoot




----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmellyMoot*


you don't think overclocking machine to 3.9-4ghz would have anything to do with this failure? I ran some stress tests with IntelBurn... and then also after that I restarted it and wouldnt turn on from there too... >.<


Please post all of your settings, and then we will begin diagnosing.

Yeah, I do mean *all* of them. If you take screenshots, then please open each one in Microsoft Paint and perform a "Save As" and save them in the .PNG format. This will significantly reduce their file size without sacrificing any of the image quality.

I need to see the following:

All of Ai Tweaker (if you take screenshots, then you will need 3 of them to get *all* of Ai Tweaker)
Ai Tweaker\\ DRAM Timing Control>
Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management>
Advanced\\ CPU Configuration>
I need to know each setting.

*Edit: *I already know your system specifications, however it's still very important that you add them to your signature for everyone else by doing this:

Click *User CP* on the black bar at the top of any page on here
Click *Edit System* over on the left
When you're finished, click *Save Changes*
There's no save confirmation, so just trust it.








From this point forward, your specifications will be in your signature for every post you make as well as every post you've _already_ made.


----------



## chippy1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14423864*
> Oh good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running on fumes right now, so the best advice I can contribute for now is to raise the multiplier (and only the multiplier) to your desired overclock. If it doesn't work, then it will need a little more core voltage.
> 
> My brain is about ready to pass out.


TwoCables I have now returned the board as asked to by the company that sold it me as they think its faulty as well.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chippy1;14467628*
> TwoCables I have now returned the board as asked to by the company that sold it me as they think its faulty as well.


Aw man.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Anybody happen to know the maximum allowed current / wattage on the motherboard's fan header for the CPU? This would be on the P8P67 Pro (dunno if it'd be different).

I'd look it up myself, but wouldn't know where to look.


----------



## orlywutlol

Hi guys I have been doing some testing for my current OC of 4.6ghz. My chip has a VID of 1.3611v for 4.6ghz.

Here's my bios settings when I was running prime and failing after 2 hours.
Quote:


> Ai Tweaker
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 46
> Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled
> Memory Frequency: *[2133]*
> DRAM Timing Control: *[11-11-11-30]*
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: *High*
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: *0.055V*
> DRAM Voltage: *1.5v*
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto


Prime95 blend would throw out a failed worker right around the 2 hour mark. Frustrated I broke my own rule and changed two different settings at once, I decided to try enabling PLL Overvoltage and I even knocked my RAM down to 1600. So far I have been running Prime for 3 1/2 hours with no issues.

Would enabling PLL Overvoltage have any benefit? Or was it likely running my RAM at 1600 that got me past that 2 hour mark? Is there any real benefit running the RAM at 2133 vs 1600? If so would I have to increase VCCIO Voltage from auto?


----------



## TwoCables

The only change I would make right now is LLC on Ultra High instead of High.

Although, that offset voltage is high. Aren't you getting a load voltage of over 1.40V with that Offset of 0.055V?


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14468258*
> The only change I would make right now is LLC on Ultra High instead of High.
> 
> Although, that offset voltage is high. Aren't you getting a load voltage of over 1.40V with that Offset of 0.055V?


I'll try LLC Ultra High and maybe knock down the offset voltage a bit. And no my vcore at load according to CPU-Z fluctuates between 1.352 - 1.360v.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14468310*
> I'll try LLC Ultra High and maybe knock down the offset voltage a bit. And no my vcore at load according to CPU-Z fluctuates between 1.352 - 1.360v.


Oh wait. That's because you're using an LLC of High instead of Ultra High. My fault!









So I guess I should give you a fair warning: 0.055V with LLC at Ultra High should result in a full load voltage of 1.40V or perhaps _slightly_ more (due to less vDroop).


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14468328*
> Oh wait. That's because you're using an LLC of High instead of Ultra High. My fault!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess I should give you a fair warning: 0.055V with LLC at Ultra High should result in a full load voltage of 1.40V or perhaps _slightly_ more (due to less vDroop).


Yep yep I was trying out the lower LLC with higher offset voltage approach.


----------



## pioneerisloud

It's okay guys, I found the answer to my own question.....


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14468347*
> Yep yep I was trying out the lower LLC with higher offset voltage approach.


Why?

(pardon my question, but maybe you learned something that I didn't)


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14468373*
> Why?
> 
> (pardon my question, but maybe you learned something that I didn't)


I read that _some_ have better luck with slightly lower temps under load somewhere. I forget where I should have bookmarked it.

EDIT: I just read that running my RAM at the full rated speed of 2133 may throw out rounding errors in Prime95. And that's exactly what's been happening to me. Some say raising the VCCIO Voltage slightly from Auto may compensate for it but may cause slightly higher load temps.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14468424*
> I read that _some_ have better luck with slightly lower temps under load somewhere. I forget where I should have bookmarked it.
> 
> EDIT: I just read that running my RAM at the full rated speed of 2133 may throw out rounding errors in Prime95. And that's exactly what's been happening to me. Some say raising the VCCIO Voltage slightly from Auto may compensate for it but may cause slightly higher load temps.


Ah, then I guess it's time I share this with you even though "YMMV" with Sandy Bridge in a very big way.

When I achieved stability at 48x, I went straight for a VCCIO of 1.15625 without trying anything else (I can't quite remember why). I mean damn: it was rock-solid stable, so I didn't want to disturb it. I also didn't know much about VCCIO.

Although lately I've been trying to see if I could get away with a significantly lower VCCIO. So I started off with a straight 1.00000V but it wasn't stable. I currently have it at 1.14375V because everything less has been unstable so far. lol







However, I have also had my VCCSA manually set to 0.92500V which is exactly where it sits when it's set to Auto - *and it was on Auto when my system was stable with a VCCIO of 1.15625!* lol So, that manual VCCSA setting might be affecting it too.









I'll be testing this VCCIO of 1.14375V in about 12-14 hours from now. If it's not stable, then I think I'll start testing to see if I need to balance my VCCSA and VCCIO in order to get a lower VCCIO. I mean geez: a VCCIO of 1.15V is for people with a DRAM Voltage at 1.65! lol


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14468550*
> Ah, then I guess it's time I share this with you even though "YMMV" with Sandy Bridge in a very big way.
> 
> When I achieved stability at 48x, I went straight for a VCCIO of 1.15625 without trying anything else (I can't quite remember why). I mean damn: it was rock-solid stable, so I didn't want to disturb it. I also didn't know much about VCCIO.
> 
> Although lately I've been trying to see if I could get away with a significantly lower VCCIO. So I started off with a straight 1.00000V but it wasn't stable. I currently have it at 1.14375V because everything less has been unstable so far. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, I have also had my VCCSA manually set to 0.92500V which is exactly where it sits when it's set to Auto - *and it was on Auto when my system was stable with a VCCIO of 1.15625!* lol So, that manual VCCSA setting might be affecting it too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be testing this VCCIO of 1.14375V in about 12-14 hours from now. If it's not stable, then I think I'll start testing to see if I need to balance my VCCSA and VCCIO in order to get a lower VCCIO. I mean geez: a VCCIO of 1.15V is for people with a DRAM Voltage at 1.65! lol


Hmm strange isnt it? A few days ago I changed my LLC to Medium just to see what would happen. [Didnt change anything else] I happened to have a much lower vcore under load due to this. I managed to run Prime for about 1 1/2 hours over a higher LLC setting. I may try raising the VCCIO voltage and see what that nets me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Two Cables:
The VCCIO voltage isn't ONLY for messing with DRAM voltage either. From my understanding of it, its your IMC's voltage.


----------



## orlywutlol

I have a question for you guys. Are any of you running a stable OC with lower vcore than what your VID is at x multiplier?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14468618*
> Hmm strange isnt it? A few days ago I changed my LLC to Medium just to see what would happen. [Didnt change anything else] I happened to have a much lower vcore under load due to this.


LLC is there to compencate the level of vdroop under load, so lowering the LLC setting would automatically increase vdroop thus showing a much lower vcore than intended. My advice is either use HIGH or Ultra HIGH to minimise the droop and maintain a voltage that is closest to what you set in the BIOS, generally Ultra high has worked best for Asus P67 mobos.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14468663*
> Two Cables:
> The VCCIO voltage isn't ONLY for messing with DRAM voltage either. From my understanding of it, its your IMC's voltage.


I wasn't thinking that it's only for messing with DRAM Voltage. I'm currently using it to help me get my stable 48x overclock back without needing to go all the way back up to 1.15625V (hopefully). Although, if I have to then I have to. However, I think it's because now I'm using a manual VCCSA of 0.925V instead of Auto.


----------



## SushiDragon

May I join?


----------



## nawon72

My CPU seems to have a terrible IMC. I can't even POST with 1866MHz when my CPU clocks and settings are stock, timings are 13-13-13-39-2T, VCCIO is 1.2V, and DRAM is set to 1.7V.

Any suggestions? I would really like to use 1866MHz for the boost in 3DMark11 Physics.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14468792*
> My CPU seems to have a terrible IMC. I can't even POST with 1866MHz when my CPU clocks and settings are stock, timings are 13-13-13-39-2T, VCCIO is 1.2V, and DRAM is set to 1.7V.
> 
> Any suggestions? I would really like to use 1866MHz for the boost in 3DMark11 Physics.


that can't be right, whats your stock timings and voltage?

EDIT:

Drop VCCIO back down to 1.1250v and try these timings and voltage:

9-9-9-27 2T @ 1.6v and obviously set it 1866mhz


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14468792*
> My CPU seems to have a terrible IMC. I can't even POST with 1866MHz when my CPU clocks and settings are stock, timings are 13-13-13-39-2T, VCCIO is 1.2V, and DRAM is set to 1.7V.
> 
> Any suggestions? I would really like to use 1866MHz for the boost in 3DMark11 Physics.


Might be the RAM too. Too hard to tell for sure. I hope not, as I think that's the same RAM I just bought (blue heatspreaders, 8-8-8-24, 1.50v for an 8GB kit right?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14468815*
> that can't be right, whats your stock timings and voltage?


Stock for my ram is 8-8-8-24-2T @1.5V. Link to the RAM i bought is here. I can boot at 1600MHz with the previously mentioned settings though:















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14468817*
> Might be the RAM too. Too hard to tell for sure. I hope not, as I think that's the same RAM I just bought (blue heatspreaders, 8-8-8-24, 1.50v for an 8GB kit right?


I believe you got the same ones as me.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14468849*
> Stock for my ram is 8-8-8-24-2T @1.5V. Link to the RAM i bought is here.
> 
> I believe you got the same ones as me.


Yup I did. Hopefully the RAM doesn't turn out to be a dud. I was hoping for 2133+ out of those with half decent timings.


----------



## orlywutlol

RealTemp says my VID for 4.6ghz is 1.3611v. Is it possible to get a stable OC with less volts than this?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14468903*
> RealTemp says my VID for 4.6ghz is 1.3611v. Is it possible to get a stable OC with less volts than this?


For 4.6GHz, _maybe_. Of course, it's always worth shooting for it.









While you're doing it, you could sing _"getting to know you...."_


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14468856*
> Yup I did. Hopefully the RAM doesn't turn out to be a dud. I was hoping for 2133+ out of those with half decent timings.


My dad has the same RAM as me, so maybe later ill try out his sticks in my system and see if it makes a difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14468903*
> RealTemp says my VID for 4.6ghz is 1.3611v. Is it possible to get a stable OC with less volts than this?


Don't trust RealTemp VID. Use CPU-Z instead.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14468849*
> Stock for my ram is 8-8-8-24-2T @1.5V.


I would try this:

Drop VCCIO back down to 1.1250v like I mentioned before and then try setting these timings:

9-9-9-27 2t @ 1.6v if that doesn't work try 9-10-9-27 2T with 1.6v


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14468948*
> I would try this:
> 
> Drop VCCIO back down to 1.1250v like I mentioned before and then try setting these timings:
> 
> 9-9-9-27 2t @ 1.6v if that doesn't work try 9-10-9-27 2T with 1.6v


Im off to eat, so ill ask a quick question before hand. Why does G.Skill use 28 for the tRAS, while all other manufactures use 27? I noticed this when i was looking for timings to try by searching NewEgg. I was looking for 1866MHz timings, and here is what i found:

1866 9-10-9-27-2T 1.5V Corsair, Mushkin
1866 9-10-9-28-2T 1.5V G.Skill


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14468940*
> My dad has the same RAM as me, so maybe later ill try out his sticks in my system and see if it makes a difference.
> 
> Don't trust RealTemp VID. Use CPU-Z instead.


For me, the VID in Real Temp is precisely the same as what I see in Core Temp.

I use Real Temp 3.67 and Core Temp 0.99.8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14469045*
> Im off to eat, so ill ask a quick question before hand. Why does G.Skill use 28 for the tRAS, while all other manufactures use 27? I noticed this when i was looking for timings to try by searching NewEgg. I was looking for 1866MHz timings, and here is what i found:
> 
> 1866 9-10-9-27-2T 1.5V Corsair, Mushkin
> 1866 9-10-9-28-2T 1.5V G.Skill


Yeah, and the XMP (which I set manually) uses 29. lol So yeah: wth?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14469045*
> Im off to eat, so ill ask a quick question before hand. Why does G.Skill use 28 for the tRAS, while all other manufactures use 27? I noticed this when i was looking for timings to try by searching NewEgg. I was looking for 1866MHz timings, and here is what i found:
> 
> 1866 9-10-9-27-2T 1.5V Corsair, Mushkin
> 1866 9-10-9-28-2T 1.5V G.Skill


Doesn't really matter in the slightest honestly. TRAS makes almost no difference at all in speed or stability until you start breaking high speeds. All of that RAM will likely tighten down to 24 TRAS easy enough.

The biggest timings are CAS, TRCD (actually makes the biggest difference on stability on SB from my testing), and Command Rate.


----------



## nawon72

I need to test a little more, but i think the culprit was the DRAM voltage. And of course i need to test the RAM for stability. Ill post again instead of updating when i get the new info.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Moar!!! Tighten them timings down, or up your speed to 2133.


----------



## dlerch

Yeah you had you DRAM Voltage way too high.

I have the same ram on the way here tomorrow with my new board and brand new i7. Can't wait.


----------



## orlywutlol

Hmm I wonder if I bumped my DRAM volts a notch or 2 I could run my RAM at its rated specs of 2133. Says its rated for 1.50v @ 2133 but I was getting rounding errors in Prime so I stuck to 1600 for the time being.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;14469660*
> Hmm I wonder if I bumped my DRAM volts a notch or 2 I could run my RAM at its rated specs of 2133. Says its rated for 1.50v @ 2133 but I was getting rounding errors in Prime so I stuck to 1600 for the time being.


Either that or VCCIO. Could have been your memory controller giving you the issues as well.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14469576*
> I need to test a little more, but i think the culprit was the DRAM voltage. And of course i need to test the RAM for stability. Ill post again instead of updating when i get the new info.


Nice one!! try 8-9-8-27 with a small voltage bump, 1.55v


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14469576*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to test a little more, but i think the culprit was the DRAM voltage. And of course i need to test the RAM for stability. Ill post again instead of updating when i get the new info.


Try 9-11-9-29-1T.







It probably won't work, but that's what my 1866MHz uses for stock timings!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14469593*
> Moar!!! Tighten them timings down, or up your speed to 2133.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14469669*
> Nice one!! try 8-9-8-27 with a small voltage bump, 1.55v


Are you nuts Im already having major stability issues with this memory OC. My computer is randomly freezing(so i restart), and it took me 10min just to get this post typed out. So a realistic OC would be 1866MHz 9-11-9-28-2T @1.5V, but hopefully i can tweak it to get better timings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14469715*
> Try 9-11-9-29-1T.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It probably won't work, but that's what my 1866MHz uses for stock timings!


Ill give it a shot, but with 2T to start out. But before i even do that, i want to see if i can get 2133MHz.

Right now I'm testing to see how high i can get my DRAM voltage(with XMP) before my OC fails.


----------



## dlerch

I like Intel Burn Test (IBT) better than prime 95. I will pass tests with flying colors on a relatively conservative OC with IBT, but then get a rounding error in prime95. Then just running my comp, running all my normal programs things are very stable. IBT also pushes the system a little harder too. Yet still can never get large FFTs to work in p95.

Are you raising fsb small increments at a time? If you are too aggressive you may get errors too.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


I like Intel Burn Test (IBT) better than prime 95. I will pass tests with flying colors on a relatively conservative OC with IBT, but then get a rounding error in prime95. Then just running my comp, running all my normal programs. IBT also pushes the system a little harder too.


That means that Prime95 Blend is superior. Think about it.









....unless you're talking about the Core2 Quad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Are you raising fsb small increments at a time? If you are too aggressive you may get errors too.


We don't have a FSB.







We have a BCLK though, but it's better to leave it at 100.0 MHz.


----------



## orlywutlol

Tried setting my ram to 2133 again. Changed VCCIO to 1.15v and DRAM to 1.52v. Got a rounding error after 56min.

I'm thinking just staying with 1600 and try tighter timings.

Any other suggestions?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Try 9-11-9-29-1T.







It probably won't work, but that's what my 1866MHz uses for stock timings!


What DRAM and VCCIO Voltage do you require for stability?

ATM, i can't even seem to get any stability with my memory OC. Even at 1866MHz 10-11-10-31-2T with 1.55V and 1.125VCCIO. So i need suggestions that don't involve increasing the DRAM voltage much more than 1.55V because it will instantly crash.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


What DRAM and VCCIO Voltage do you require for stability?

ATM, i can't even seem to get any stability with my memory OC. Even at 1866MHz 10-11-10-31-2T with 1.55V and 1.125VCCIO. So i need suggestions that don't involve increasing the DRAM voltage much more than 1.55V because it will instantly crash.


My memory isn't overclocked or tweaked at all. 9-11-9-29-1T @ 1866MHz with 1.5V is stock for me.


----------



## dlerch

Woops! My response was late and for some reason I thought I was in the p5q pro turbo club! Doh!


----------



## FreeWillzyx

In the process of setting up my P8Z68 Deluxe. Just leak testing and will boot her up in a few hours!


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Board arrived the other day. One thing I can say is, wow I've never had a board fight with me so hard like this one has. I was stuck up till 3:30 AM the night of the arrival with the damn red CPU light for no reason. Sometimes it would work, so I'd power down and try again and it wouldn't. This cycle repeated, and after screwing with it for hours, it finally worked. I was very close to raging and returning it for a Gigabyte. It finally worked, and seems to be doing okay, thankfully.

Also, is there a fix for the sleep bug too? That's rapidly getting irritating, as I almost always put my computer to sleep when I leave it for more than a few hours.


----------



## dlerch

What was the problem with your cpu? I have pretty much the same setup, same ram, just a deluxe not pro, and a dif graphics card setup? What were your problems in detail? I'm only asking because I am building mine tonight and through the weekend.


----------



## WhiteNinja

Hi all, first post here.









I also have a P8P67-PRO board (two actually, Rev 3 and Rev 3.1) and had some issues with it (still have).

The first issue has been cleared, I think. After running fine for a month, my system just didn't boot properly (1 long 3 short beeps, indicating no VGA detected). So, after the some trying and swapping around, I decided to get a new GPU (MSI GTX570). After installing everything, it worked fine.

But now, I have a new problem. I have two monitors, but after installing the new card and everything, only one Monitor was displaying something. I figured I uninstall the graphic drivers and re-install them. But now, after uninstalling the driver, I get no picture at all! POST will beep once, and the BOOT_DEVICE_LED stays on red. No picture on any of the monitors, tried both DVI outputs and different cables, even when just trying to run one monitor.

I have a feeling it is the Motherboard, though. I'll try using the Rev 3 version tomorrow, and see how that works. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


What was the problem with your cpu? I have pretty much the same setup, same ram, just a deluxe not pro, and a dif graphics card setup? What were your problems in detail? I'm only asking because I am building mine tonight and through the weekend.


I'mt not entirely sure what the cause of the problem was. It wouldn't POST, and would throw the red CPU LED light (check the manual for what I mean by that). After re-seating the ram, and CPU several times, it finally worked. My board might be flaky, and if I run into another issue like this, it's going straight back.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Board arrived the other day. One thing I can say is, wow I've never had a board fight with me so hard like this one has. I was stuck up till 3:30 AM the night of the arrival with the damn red CPU light for no reason. Sometimes it would work, so I'd power down and try again and it wouldn't. This cycle repeated, and after screwing with it for hours, it finally worked. I was very close to raging and returning it for a Gigabyte. It finally worked, and seems to be doing okay, thankfully.

Also, is there a fix for the sleep bug too? That's rapidly getting irritating, as I almost always put my computer to sleep when I leave it for more than a few hours.


I recommend flashing to the 1850 BIOS. Before doing that, load the optimized defaults first (F10 of course). After that, flash to 1850. After flashing, load the optimized defaults again.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteNinja;14480701*
> Hi all, first post here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have a P8P67-PRO board (two actually, Rev 3 and Rev 3.1) and had some issues with it (still have).
> 
> The first issue has been cleared, I think. After running fine for a month, my system just didn't boot properly (1 long 3 short beeps, indicating no VGA detected). So, after the some trying and swapping around, I decided to get a new GPU (MSI GTX570). After installing everything, it worked fine.
> 
> But now, I have a new problem. I have two monitors, but after installing the new card and everything, only one Monitor was displaying something. I figured I uninstall the graphic drivers and re-install them. But now, after uninstalling the driver, I get no picture at all! POST will beep once, and the BOOT_DEVICE_LED stays on red. No picture on any of the monitors, tried both DVI outputs and different cables, even when just trying to run one monitor.
> 
> I have a feeling it is the Motherboard, though. I'll try using the Rev 3 version tomorrow, and see how that works. Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Hi there mate









About that problem you have. Maybe you have faulty gfx card try swaping cards and then try.


----------



## SgtHop

Been a while since I posted in this thread, but I've encountered an unusual quirk since putting this board in my main rig. Every time I turn the computer on, I am unable to connect to the internet, despite the machine not being connected to the network in any way. Is there any part of the board that would cause that kind of interference.

Note, the interference is on WiFi.


----------



## TwoCables

I had to put my testing on hold this past week due to too many threats of severe thunderstorms. However, that threat ended a couple of days ago, so I have resumed my testing!

I originally started by lowering my VCCIO from 1.15625V to 1.000V, and also by manually setting my VCCSA to 0.925V. Unfortunately, it only lasted a little more than 4 hours in Prime95's Blend test.

_ (*Note:* I have not yet changed my VCCSA setting (not even through all of the history I'm about to describe below). So, it's still manually set to 0.925V.)_

So after failing after about 4 hours in Prime95, I tried 1.0500V. However, it only lasted a little more than 4 hours again (it even failed at the same spot).

Then I tried 1.1000V, and this time it lasted just over 6 hours!

However, then I became lazy and bumped it to 1.12500V without testing it. Although, I played Crysis 2 the next day and it crashed a few times which is the first time I've ever had _any_ problems with it!

So then I bumped it up to 1.14375V and Crysis 2 stopped crashing!

Today, I decided to be a little experimental by playing Crysis 2 with 1.13125V which is the next strap up from 1.12500V. The game never crashed, but it did have some very weird behaviors that are hard to describe.

So then I bumped it up to the next strap at 1.13750V, but the game kept acting weird in the same way. I decided that I probably corrupted the game save, so I did 2 things: I put the VCCIO back to 1.14375V and then I loaded a much earlier game save to guarantee that I didn't load a corrupted one due to this instability. After that, Crysis 2 played flawlessly.

I'm currently in the middle of taking a break from Crysis 2, so I think what I'm going to do now is try 1.13750V again and see how that goes. If it's smooth, then I'll try 1.13125V. However, 1.14375V seems to feel the most stable both in Crysis 2 and in Windows in general. Y'know what I mean?

This is fun.


----------



## tryceo

Can anyone help me on my p8p67 Deluxe? It seems like that my realtek internet port can't upload anything, while my intel port works just fine. This is really weird and I was thinking if anyone knows a way to fix this. I think it worked fine a couple of days ago, but now it is kinda bad.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tryceo*


Can anyone help me on my p8p67 Deluxe? It seems like that my realtek internet port can't upload anything, while my intel port works just fine. This is really weird and I was thinking if anyone knows a way to fix this. I think it worked fine a couple of days ago, but now it is kinda bad.


I hate the way my question sounds, but why are you trying to get the Realtek port to work?


----------



## tryceo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I hate the way my question sounds, but why are you trying to get the Realtek port to work?


I'm not. I just want to make sure that the product I buy isn't defective. If I do want to use dual LAN in the future, to like share my internet or w/e, I want to make sure it works.


----------



## TFL Replica

Dude your sig is hilarious. I haven't had any problems with my realtek LAN. Was it working before and suddenly not working after you installed new drivers?


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Alright, working on my OC. Man, sandy bridge really made OCing really easy mode.

Right now I'm sitting stable at 4.8 GHz, and 1.44 vCore, LLC extreme. Temps sit right at about 70, so I'm not concerned with them. Would it be possible to push this any higher, or should I stay at 4.8? Also, should I keep LLC extreme, or back it to high/ultra-high or even auto?

This has been a great support thread. I'm beginning to take back the not so nice things I said about it in frustration the other day...


----------



## munaim1

oops wrong thread.

*EDIT: *

I guess it wont hurt to ask here lol any of you guys using the Gskill eco 1.35v RAMS? These ones.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Alright, working on my OC. Man, sandy bridge really made OCing really easy mode.

Right now I'm sitting stable at 4.8 GHz, and 1.44 vCore, LLC extreme. Temps sit right at about 70, so I'm not concerned with them. Would it be possible to push this any higher, or should I stay at 4.8? Also, should I keep LLC extreme, or back it to high/ultra-high or even auto?

This has been a great support thread. I'm beginning to take back the not so nice things I said about it in frustration the other day...


Whoa. 1.44V vcore is usually more than necessary for this, especially with LLC on Extreme (which causes vRise).

Although, does it really need this much?


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Whoa. 1.44V vcore is usually more than necessary for this, especially with LLC on Extreme (which causes vRise).

Although, does it really need this much?


Technically, I guess it doesn't. But, OCN has burned the desire for more speed into my head.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Technically, I guess it doesn't. But, OCN has burned the desire for more speed into my head.


What voltage do you get in CPU-Z under full load?


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


oops wrong thread.

*EDIT: *

I guess it wont hurt to ask here lol any of you guys using the Gskill eco 1.35v RAMS? These ones.


I was going to buy those but they were overpriced in my area.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


What voltage do you get in CPU-Z under full load?


1.440 at full. I might just be stuck at 4.8, but pushing for 4.9 would be very nice, although I'm accepting the fact that voltages may just not allow it.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


oops wrong thread.

*EDIT: *

I guess it wont hurt to ask here lol any of you guys using the Gskill eco 1.35v RAMS? These ones.


I'm using these in my P8P67 vanilla board.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231461

Still doing the windows updates right now, with the new rig. I will have more info later.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TFL Replica*


I was going to buy those but they were overpriced in my area.


I sooo want them, CL7 1600mhz with only 1.35v, imagine what I could do with 1.7v


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


1.440 at full. I might just be stuck at 4.8, but pushing for 4.9 would be very nice, although I'm accepting the fact that voltages may just not allow it.


Whoa. So that's not allowing you to get 49x?

Do you have HT enabled or disabled?


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Whoa. So that's not allowing you to get 49x?

Do you have HT enabled or disabled?


Enabled. I haven't actually tried 4.9 yet. I'll try bumping it up and Prime95ing it again.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Enabled. I haven't actually tried 4.9 yet. I'll try bumping it up and Prime95ing it again.


Whoa! You're accomplishing this with HT enabled. hehe nice.

Although, you would be able to use a lower vcore if HT were disabled. Plus you would get lower temps and it would probably even make it become easy to reach 49x.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Whoa! You're accomplishing this with HT enabled. hehe nice.

Although, you would be able to use a lower vcore if HT were disabled. Plus you would get lower temps and it would probably even make it become easy to reach 49x.


Not sure if the trade off between 100MHz and HT is worth it for 24/7, tbh. But now that I think about it, 4.8 with HT is not too shabby I'd say.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Not sure if the trade off between 100MHz and HT is worth it for 24/7, tbh. But now that I think about it, 4.8 with HT is not too shabby I'd say.


What do you do with your rig? Do you do anything other than gaming? I mean, do you do things that take advantage of HT?


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Whoa! You're accomplishing this with HT enabled. hehe nice.

Although, you would be able to use a lower vcore if HT were disabled. Plus you would get lower temps and it would probably even make it become easy to reach 49x.


But then that kind of defeats the purpose of buying a 2600K, eh? (except for the added 2mb of l3 cache







)

On another note, I've got my 2600K stable at 5 with 1.440v with minimal effort (just bumped up voltage and adjusted llc to ultra high and enabled enter am pll voltage). So I guess I should play with it a bit more, eh?

---
- Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


But then that kind of defeats the purpose of buying a 2600K, eh? (except for the added 2mb of l3 cache







)


...

Everyone says that to me. However, that's why I asked him what he does with his computer.

It seems to me that more than half of the people who bought a 2600K on here don't even need HT and most of them ended up disabling it just so they could overclock better and get better gaming performance due to having it disabled.

It reminds me of the reason why any one of us would get Windows 7 Ultimate.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


On another note, I've got my 2600K stable at 5 with 1.440v with minimal effort (just bumped up voltage and adjusted llc to ultra high and enabled enter am pll voltage). So I guess I should play with it a bit more, eh?

---
- Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


Always. More MHz please, sir!


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


...

Everyone says that to me. However, that's why I asked him what he does with his computer.

It seems to me that more than half of the people who bought a 2600K on here don't even need HT and most of them ended up disabling it just so they could overclock better and get better gaming performance due to having it disabled.

It reminds me of the reason why any one of us would get Windows 7 Ultimate.

Always. More MHz please, sir!


You've got quite a valid point there. But what I don't get is why not just get a 2500K in the first place of you are going to disable HT anyway as it'll save you a $100. Then again sometimes people just like the fact that they have the beat possible. Me, I guess I'm one of the few who actually bought my rig with not gaming in mind, but instead with producing and video transcoding







I totally use the HT, but I fuess I got lucky enough to get a chip that can hit 5GHz with HT enabled without using an insane amount of voltage.

Hehe, I've gotten lazy since I got my rig in March and achieved the said overclock. Summer and the insane heat have been a real impedence and hindrance to my overclocking endeavors so I guess I got lazy







And I don't think the fact with uni starting in a week helps my case either. I don't wanna mess up my freshman year








But I guess I could always find some time I can spend overclocking some more!

--Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


You've got quite a valid point there. But what I don't get is why not just get a 2500K in the first place of you are going to disable HT anyway as it'll save you a $100.


Too many of the people who get the 2600K end up realizing that they have absolutely no use for HT. These are the same people who rush into a decision and just get what they think is the best of the best and then ask questions later.

So they just think _"Well, it has 100MHz faster stock speed, 2MB more cache, and HT. Therefore, it's far superior to the i5-2500K, so my decision is a no-brainer"_. Later, they realize _"Oh. I wasted my money because all I'm doing is gaming and watching YouTube videos. Man, why didn't I just ask OCN in the first place?"_

That's what I meant by how it reminds me of why many people bought Windows 7 Ultimate. It's like _"I don't want to do any thinking, so I'll just get Windows 7 Ultimate"_. Sigh.

Money wasters. It irritates me to no end.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


Then again sometimes people just like the fact that they have the beat possible. Me, I guess I'm one of the few who actually bought my rig with not gaming in mind, but instead with producing and video transcoding







I totally use the HT, but I fuess I got lucky enough to get a chip that can hit 5GHz with HT enabled without using an insane amount of voltage.


Exactly. You are one of those people that make me happy because you actually made an informed decision.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


Hehe, I've gotten lazy since I got my rig in March and achieved the said overclock. Summer and the insane heat have been a real impedence and hindrance to my overclocking endeavors so I guess I got lazy







And I don't think the fact with uni starting in a week helps my case either. I don't wanna mess up my freshman year







But I guess I could always find some time I can spend overclocking some more!

--Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


There's always room for dessert.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Does anyone know when the next official release (non-beta) bios is supposed to come out? I haven't touched my cpu since i stuck it at 4.5ghz and I'd really like to get down to some tweaking to where I can disable pll overvoltage (crappy chip, but still 4.5 shouldn't need that setting).

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Too many of the people who get the 2600K end up realizing that they have absolutely no use for HT. These are the same people who rush into a decision and just get what they think is the best of the best and then ask questions later.

So they just think _"Well, it has 100MHz faster stock speed, 2MB more cache, and HT. Therefore, it's far superior to the i5-2500K, so my decision is a no-brainer"_. Later, they realize _"Oh. I wasted my money because all I'm doing is gaming and watching YouTube videos. Man, why didn't I just ask OCN in the first place?"_

That's what I meant by how it reminds me of why many people bought Windows 7 Ultimate. It's like _"I don't want to do any thinking, so I'll just get Windows 7 Ultimate"_. Sigh.

Money wasters. It irritates me to no end.

Exactly. You are one of those people that make me happy because you actually made an informed decision.

There's always room for dessert.










This is totally true. No sense in spending extra money for unneeded features. Sometimes it's good to save money, you know?

Haha yeah, it's the only reason I upgraded from my phenom ii x4, because the phenom was far too slow for video transcoding and back then I read how the new SB procs were superior to its predecessors (Nehalem) in regards to transcoding and editing videos. I also dug up that the 2600K was close in performance to the mighty 98/90x, so obviously it was the beat option for me. Now, I totally am happy with my choice. Times waiting for my video to encode or transcode have seriously shrunk to the point of me justify the added $100 quite easily.

Now I guess it's time to get to tweaking this bad boy a bit more, eh?

---
- Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*


Does anyone know when the next official release (non-beta) bios is supposed to come out? I haven't touched my cpu since i stuck it at 4.5ghz and I'd really like to get down to some tweaking to where I can disable pll overvoltage (crappy chip, but still 4.5 shouldn't need that setting).

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


Is that because the beta has issues on your particular setup or just because you're simply against flashing to betas?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


This is totally true. No sense in spending extra money for unneeded features. Sometimes it's good to save money, you know?

Haha yeah, it's the only reason I upgraded from my phenom ii x4, because the phenom was far too slow for video transcoding and back then I read how the new SB procs were superior to its predecessors (Nehalem) in regards to transcoding and editing videos. I also dug up that the 2600K was close in performance to the mighty 98/90x, so obviously it was the beat option for me. Now, I totally am happy with my choice. Times waiting for my video to encode or transcode have seriously shrunk to the point of me justify the added $100 quite easily.

Now I guess it's time to get to tweaking this bad boy a bit more, eh?

---
- Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


It's like advanced alien technology, isn't it?


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TFL Replica*


Is that because the beta has issues on your particular setup or just because you're simply against flashing to betas?


I really don't want to mess with the betas at the moment, as I'm new to all of this and I don't have time right now to troubleshoot.

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


----------



## dlerch

Finished my build today, fresh OS install and no hickups. I first want to say that I LOVE my new Fractal XL case. It has by far the best cable organization options out of any case I've owned. It is also pretty much silent. I can't hear it at all, especially since I have it plugged into my TV and I sit 8 feet away on the couch. Fans are quiet and pull enough air to keep the case cool. I still need to clean up a few fan cables, but otherwise I love it. The board was a very easy install, recognized my 16gb of ripjaws ram with no need for tweaking. 212_ keeps my proc nice and cool. Idles around 28-30c with only one fan installed.

I'm running p95 all night at stock settings, so I will attempt a 4.0gHz OC tomorrow.

My one question is, my cheap MS wireless mouse doesn't work very well in the uefi bios. Not a huge deal because I've never had the luxury of mouse support in bios before. It just kinda hovers in the corner and it doesn't really work at all.

I've upped a few pics. I will take some more tomorrow during the day.

Cable organization attempt #1(having another go tomorrow to clean up fan cables)









mmmm


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


My one question is, my cheap MS wireless mouse doesn't work very well in the uefi bios. Not a huge deal because I've never had the luxury of mouse support in bios before. It just kinda hovers in the corner and it doesn't really work at all.


Is it plugged into a USB2.0 port??
As USB3.0 is only for storage, not mouse and keyboard


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


What do you do with your rig? Do you do anything other than gaming? I mean, do you do things that take advantage of HT?


Yes, I do. I fold, and do a lot of video transcoding. So unlike the people you were griping about, I did make an informed decision







At least, I think so.

Plus, I got this for $260 shipped from Patch here. Couldn't pass up that deal.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Is it plugged into a USB2.0 port??
As USB3.0 is only for storage, not mouse and keyboard










I can attest to this. I was wondering why my mouse wasn't working, and realized it was in a USB 3.0 port. Swapped it, works fine.


----------



## TFL Replica

That's odd because my laptop's wireless mouse works fine in its USB 3.0 port.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Finished my build today, fresh OS install and no hickups. I first want to say that I LOVE my new Fractal XL case. It has by far the best cable organization options out of any case I've owned. It is also pretty much silent. I can't hear it at all, especially since I have it plugged into my TV and I sit 8 feet away on the couch. Fans are quiet and pull enough air to keep the case cool. I still need to clean up a few fan cables, but otherwise I love it. The board was a very easy install, recognized my 16gb of ripjaws ram with no need for tweaking. 212_ keeps my proc nice and cool. Idles around 28-30c with only one fan installed.

I'm running p95 all night at stock settings, so I will attempt a 4.0gHz OC tomorrow.

My one question is, my cheap MS wireless mouse doesn't work very well in the uefi bios. Not a huge deal because I've never had the luxury of mouse support in bios before. It just kinda hovers in the corner and it doesn't really work at all.

I've upped a few pics. I will take some more tomorrow during the day.

Cable organization attempt #1(having another go tomorrow to clean up fan cables)









mmmm










Congrats with a very, very nice system! Now, remember to report back if this sytem kicks new life into your GTX 260 SLI setup









I'll add you to the list


----------



## dlerch

Thanks! Just woke up with only 6 hours of sleep. 6 hours of prime95 blend worked great without a hitch. I haven't installed any games yet, but I'll give that a shot today!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Thanks! Just woke up with only 6 hours of sleep. 6 hours of prime95 blend worked great without a hitch. I haven't installed any games yet, but I'll give that a shot today!


When you start overclocking to 4.5GHz +, I recommend you use *TwoCables* template in the second post of this Club







If unstable you just up Vcore until Prime95 Blend will pass.

Also, I've found that the 1344KB and 1792KB FFT's in Blend, is the hardest of them all. So if you can pass these two, 15 minutes each, you have a very good chance of hitting 12 hours + Blend stable.

Just hit 'Blend', then 'custom' and type in 1792 for min and 1792 for max. Let it run for at least 15 minutes. Then do the same with the 1344 FFT. Also, remember to type in more then 1600MB mem, since you have alot.


----------



## dlerch

Here is a question, would you recommend I just jump in and go for 4.5 right off the bat? I've heard that a lot of people get it with ease.

Also here is something interesting. All my ram settings are on auto, and I just looked at cpuz and my ram timings are ultra loose. Probably because I am running such a large quantity of ram right? Now I'm a little worried that I'm going to hit a wall because I am running so much, though I think it will be fine. A friend of mine runs 16gb and runs 4.5 easy.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Here is a question, would you recommend I just jump in and go for 4.5 right off the bat? I've heard that a lot of people get it with ease.

Also here is something interesting. All my ram settings are on auto, and I just looked at cpuz and my ram timings are ultra loose. Probably because I am running such a large quantity of ram right? Now I'm a little worried that I'm going to hit a wall because I am running so much, though I think it will be fine. A friend of mine runs 16gb and runs 4.5 easy.


I think all 2500K/2600K's will hit 4.5GHz pretty easy. However, it will vary alot from CPU to CPU as to how much Vcore they will need. If you have a really bad one, it may require 1.4v Vcore on full load for 4.5GHz. If you have a really good one, it may require only 1.25v Vcore for 4.5GHz. I think most will do it at 1.30v - 1.35v for 4.5GHz. I would start at 1.30v for 4.5GHz.

Please set RAM timings manual. It may be that you have to use Command Rate 2t for 16GB RAM. If you get problems with stability you could also try to up VCCIO. If that defaults to 1.050v you could try all the way up to 1.200v. But for now, leave that one at AUTO.

Also, I think your CM Hyper 212+ will be fine up to the 1.40v Vcore range with HT-On. HT adds alot of heat. I'm guessing 4.7GHz with HT-On (If you can manage that in the ~1.40v or a little lower Vcore range) will be the max temprature wise, for you cooling setup. If you disable HT you will get lower temps and probably get away with a lower Vcore for the same speed.

That said, these CPU's are so fast that some people don't even bother to overclock them, or they just stay with a medium/light overclock, like 4 - 4.5GHz range.


----------



## WhiteNinja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14488003*
> Hi there mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About that problem you have. Maybe you have faulty gfx card try swaping cards and then try.


Thanks!







Sorry for the late reply, been rather busy lately.

Anyway, I think the matter is cleared, at least on the Motherboard side. There is no problem with it. I just have this weird problem with the gfx card where I can't get a picture on my monitors via DVI, but the HDMI works. I'll jump over on the nvidia sub-forum and ask there for help.

Oh, if possible, sign me up to the club, please. Thanks!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteNinja;14496187*
> Oh, if possible, sign me up to the club, please. Thanks!


Added. Welcome to the Club


----------



## dlerch

Running 4.5ghz no problem, only thing is my temps are a little high...

I am going to re-apply some thermal paste and make sure I am covering the whole surface. If I want to get below 70c, should I turn off HT? Has anyone got decent temps wit HT on at 4.5gHz with my cooler? 212+

Core 2 got up to 78c so I stopped the test. Other cores were around 71c-72c.

Re-applying thermal paste now and I will report back to what my findings are.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14496456*
> Running 4.5ghz no problem, only thing is my temps are a little high...
> 
> I am going to re-apply some thermal paste and make sure I am covering the whole surface. If I want to get below 70c, should I turn off HT? Has anyone got decent temps wit HT on at 4.5gHz with my cooler? 212+
> 
> Core 2 got up to 78c so I stopped the test. Other cores were around 71c-72c.
> 
> Re-applying thermal paste now and I will report back to what my findings are.


What Vcore and what ambient temps did you have? I would say up to 80c for hottest Core is fine. However, if that was at only 1.30v Vcore at load, it was a tad high.


----------



## dlerch

With cpu voltage in offset mode at 0.040, I am getting around 1.36-1.38vcore under load. Is my offset too high? I'm sorta new to this offset thing.

It went up to 82c under load so again I stopped the test.

I'm gonna go see about the thermal compound.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14496537*
> With cpu voltage in offset mode at 0.040, I am getting around 1.36-1.38vcore under load. s my offset too high? I'm sorta new to this offset thing.
> 
> It went up to 82c under load so again I stopped the test.
> 
> I'm gonna go see about the thermal compound.


You can probably get away with a lower Vcore for 4.5GHz. Right now I'm trying - (minus Offset) 0.050 on my [email protected] Vcore is in the 1.300v range.

So if you want to use Offset and try out very low Vcores, you just select to use minus Offset instead of plus Offset.


----------



## turrican9

With 1.36 - 1.38v Vcore I think 82c is pretty normal, when HT-On with a CM 212 +.

However, with that Vcore, you may be able to hit 4.7GHz, or even 4.8GHz if you're lucky.

For 4.5GHz, as I've said, try 1.300v Vcore range. 4.5GHz is a very nice 24/7 speed with HT-On.


----------



## dlerch

Wow, just wow. This is the best processor I've ever owned. Testing 4.5gHz running 1792 FFTs with 14.5gb of ram, 1.3v core and solid at 71c. Still haven't even re-applied arctic silver thermal paste yet. I'm sure I will drop a few degrees when that happens.

I may even add a second fan to the 212+ and see what that does. Maybe a few case fans too.

This rig is fast, I am tempted to push it further but I really like the ease and I am content with the speed I have now. Maybe if I can significantly lower my temps, I might try and get 4.8-5.0ghz.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14496861*
> Wow, just wow. This is the best processor I've ever owned. Testing 4.5gHz running 1792 FFTs with 14.5gb of ram, 1.3v core and solid at 71c. Still haven't even re-applied arctic silver thermal paste yet. I'm sure I will drop a few degrees when that happens.
> 
> I may even add a second fan to the 212+ and see what that does. Maybe a few case fans too.
> 
> This rig is fast, I am tempted to push it further but I really like the ease and I am content with the speed I have now. Maybe if I can significantly lower my temps, I might try and get 4.8-5.0ghz.


I don't think you will get better temps by re-applying the paste. Your temps are where they should be









Also, adding a second fan is not worth it. I've tried it, and it barely gave me 1C lower temps on hottest core.

Really, 4.5GHz is plenty fast. I can do 4.8GHz HT-On. I hit 80C + for hottest cores when Blend. However, that is fine. But it's not worth it.

I think I will stick with 4.5GHz and HT-On. Haven't tried lower then the 1.300v Vcore range yet. Right now it hoovers in the 1.296 - 1.320 range. Hottest Core has hit 70C. I'm using the Silent Fan Profile, So fan has been up to 1600 rpm when Blend.

Keep in mind, I'm using a lapped TRUE 120 with CM 212+ fan and mounting. This setup is not that much better VS my CM 212+ heatsink. My TRUE 120 using standard Fan Profile with the 212+ fan will just about match a NH-D14 stock.

Spending money on anything better then the CM 212+ is just a waste of money in my opinion.


----------



## slimex

Hey guys,

I am finally stable at 4,8Ghz @ 1,392V.









Again thx to everyone helping. Hope I will post my complete BIOS settings soon.


----------



## dlerch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14496951*
> I don't think you will get better temps by re-applying the paste. Your temps are where they should be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, adding a second fan is not worth it. I've tried it, and it barely gave me 1C lower temps on hottest core.
> 
> Really, 4.5GHz is plenty fast. I can do 4.8GHz HT-On. I hit 80C + for hottest cores when Blend. However, that is fine. But it's not worth it.
> 
> I think I will stick with 4.5GHz and HT-On. Haven't tried lower then the 1.300v Vcore range yet. Right now it hoovers in the 1.296 - 1.320 range. Hottest Core has hit 70C. I'm using the Silent Fan Profile, So fan has been up to 1600 rpm when Blend.
> 
> Keep in mind, I'm using a lapped TRUE 120 with CM 212+ fan and mounting. This setup is not that much better VS my CM 212+ heatsink. My TRUE 120 using standard Fan Profile with the 212+ fan will just about match a NH-D14 stock.
> 
> Spending money on anything better then the CM 212+ is just a waste of money in my opinion.


I will keep that in mind. I guess the next step would be to concentrate on getting an SSD and ultimately new video cards down the road.

Ran 20 mins on blend with 1792 FFTs. 0 errors!

Running 1344 FFTs now. If it is solid at 20mins I am gonna install a few games and see how these gtx 260s perform.

EDIT: Also you probably won't even notice a performance gain between 4.5-4.8gHz. I'd rather ride below a little smoothly in the safe zone rather than lower the life of my chip.

Tomorrow I get started on my OSX Lion install.

EDIT 2: 1344 FFTs ran solid for 20 mins, good temps. Now I'm gonna go game!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14497014*
> I will keep that in mind. I guess the next step would be to concentrate on getting an SSD and ultimately new video cards down the road.
> 
> Ran 20 mins on blend with 1792 FFTs. 0 errors!
> 
> Running 1344 FFTs now. If it is solid at 20mins I am gonna install a few games and see how these gtx 260s perform.


I think you're new Sandy will really breath new life into your GTX 260 SLI setup









SSD should be your first priority









Also, another way to speed-test with Blend is to select custom, type in more RAM (Like you have done) and select 2 minutes per FFT instead of the usual 15 minutes per FFT.

However, as long as you pass that 1792KB FFT, it looks very strong. Not sure if that FFT will rule out RAM problems though. It will indicate if you're CPU has enough Vcore to play with.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14496986*
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am finally stable at 4,8Ghz @ 1,392V.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again thx to everyone helping. Hope I will post my complete BIOS settings soon.


Great man


----------



## turrican9

*dlerch*

Oh, forgot to mention... If you get any BSOD's on light load/idle but not full load, when using Offset Vcore, please disable C3/C6 under CPU settings. This will remedy that problem, by running a little higher Vcore at light load/idle.


----------



## dlerch

Maybe I can run some extended tests tonight. So far no crashes or anything. Ram seems pretty stable on all tests.


----------



## dlerch

Thanks for the heads up, no BSOD or crashes yet so I will hold off untill that happens. Sometimes when I reboot, the monitor doesn't come up. Then I have to unplug the cable and plug it back in to get a picture. Any way to remedy that? I'll search the first page for known problems.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14497367*
> Thanks for the heads up, no BSOD or crashes yet so I will hold off untill that happens. Sometimes when I reboot, the monitor doesn't come up. Then I have to unplug the cable and plug it back in to get a picture. Any way to remedy that? I'll search the first page for known problems.


Try to plug it in your other GTX 260 and see if that will remedy the situation.


----------



## dlerch

The only issue I have now is the sound is crackling. I think it is from my optical drive, it is plugged into a sata 3 port. What should I do to fix it?


----------



## jevon

I spent hours with the P8P67 i7-2600k OC tutorial and never could duplicate the author's settings to come up with a stable 4.7 OC @ 1.35 VCore. So, I fell back to the Asus auto tweaking utility.

The utility got me up to 4.7 with BCLK @103.0. Ran small FFTs for an hour without problem. Noticed that VCore was around 1.472 under load, which seemed high. Anyway, on reboot the OC failed.

I lowered BCLK to 102.0 and now it seems stable (FFTs for 2 hours without problem, OS loads fine, no BSODs playing 3D games). However my VCore is around 1.425 under load. Does this seem high?

BTW, the Antec Kuhler keeps temps around 75c under load with fans at 2100rpm.

Thanks.


----------



## dlerch

NM, I fixed it. It was the optical drive in the wrong port


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jevon;14499010*
> I spent hours with the P8P67 i7-2600k OC tutorial and never could duplicate the author's settings to come up with a stable 4.7 OC @ 1.35 VCore. So, I fell back to the Asus auto tweaking utility.
> 
> The utility got me up to 4.7 with BCLK @103.0. Ran small FFTs for an hour without problem. Noticed that VCore was around 1.472 under load, which seemed high. Anyway, on reboot the OC failed.
> 
> I lowered BCLK to 102.0 and now it seems stable (FFTs for 2 hours without problem, OS loads fine, no BSODs playing 3D games). However my VCore is around 1.425 under load. Does this seem high?
> 
> BTW, the Antec Kuhler keeps temps around 75c under load with fans at 2100rpm.
> 
> Thanks.


I'd go in the bios and change the BCLK to 100, and put the multi to 47.
Check what it set your Ram too, and sort that!!
1.425v is what some call the max 24/7 volts for SB, but you probably know that already









Yeah, I'd play with the multi, keeping an eye on the volts and temps


----------



## jevon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


I'd go in the bios and change the BCLK to 100, and put the multi to 47.
Check what it set your Ram too, and sort that!!
1.425v is what some call the max 24/7 volts for SB, but you probably know that already









Yeah, I'd play with the multi, keeping an eye on the volts and temps










Achilles ...

Yeah, getting up to 1.425 even temporarily w/stepping was a little worrisome for a first-timer. I followed your advice and lowered the BCLK to 100.0. Multi was already set at 47. DRAM speed and timings all ok at 1600 8-8-8-24 2T.

VCore @max load now down to 1.384, which seems pretty good, and temps now around 68-70c. Is this ok? Any other settings I can adjust to get the VCore down further without lowering the multi? I'd really like to stay at 47 if possible.

Thanks a lot for you help.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jevon;14500340*
> Achilles ...
> 
> Yeah, getting up to 1.425 even temporarily w/stepping was a little worrisome for a first-timer. I followed your advice and lowered the BCLK to 100.0. Multi was already set at 47. DRAM speed and timings all ok at 1600 8-8-8-24 2T.
> 
> VCore @max load now down to 1.384, which seems pretty good, and temps now around 68-70c. Is this ok? Any other settings I can adjust to get the VCore down further without lowering the multi? I'd really like to stay at 47 if possible.
> 
> Thanks a lot for you help.


Use the template posted below by *TwoCables*, appart from the multi and Vcore of course. Then run Prime95 Custom Blend. If you have 4GB RAM, then use the standard 1600MB test. If you have 8GB RAM, then type in 6000MB instead. And use 2 minutes per FFT instead of 15 minutes. This way you'll find out in a couple of hours if you are looking good. Then lower Vcore and run the same test again. Do this until you find the lowest possible stable Vcore.

After this, run Blend Custom, and again use most of your RAM and use the standard 15 minutes per FFT. Then let it run for 12 hours +. If you get Idle or light load BSOD's, then disable C3 and C6 under CPU settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14344733*
> 
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
> *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> *By All Cores:* 48
> *Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
> *Memory Frequency:* use the rated speed for your memory
> 
> *DRAM Timing Control:* use the rated timings for your memory
> 
> *EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
> *Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
> *Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Phase Control:* Extreme
> *Duty Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 140%
> *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> *CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
> *DRAM Voltage:* use the rated voltage for your memory
> 
> *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> *VCCIO Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
> *PCH Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
> *Active Processor Cores:* All
> *Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
> *Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
> *Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *CPU C1E:* Enabled
> *CPU C3 Report:* Auto
> *CPU C6 Report:* Auto
> 
> *Note:* that Offset Voltage gets me a Core Voltage in CPU-Z of about 1.384V - 1.392V while under full load in Prime95's Blend. So be cautious and adjust accordingly.


----------



## iLLGT3

I'm thinking of getting another XFX 6850 but I have a question, will the second gfx slot give me just as much performance as the main one? Isn't it like x8 or something?

My current PSU is a CoolerMaster GX 750W. Can that handle 2 6850's?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


I'm thinking of getting another XFX 6850 but I have a question, will the second gfx slot give me just as much performance as the main one? Isn't it like x8 or something?


the difference between 16x and 8x is minimal, I say go for it and enjoy CF


----------



## dlerch

yeah CF and SLI are awesome. Its a great way to stretch the life of you aging gpus and still get amazing performance. Windows gave my gtx260s a higher rating than my friends gtx480.


----------



## iLLGT3

Will 750W be enough? I'm thinking of selling this GX 750 and getting a Corsair 750/800W that will hopefully be modular.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


Will 750W be enough? I'm thinking of selling this GX 750 and getting a Corsair 750/800W that will hopefully be modular.


If it's a quality 750W, it should suffice.


----------



## iLLGT3

We'll see I guess haha. I still would like to have one of the modular Corsair ones.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


We'll see I guess haha. I still would like to have one of the modular Corsair ones.


When thinking about it, those HD6850's are very nice when it comes to power draw I believe. So it should be absolutely no problem with that Cooler Master 750W Powersupply


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


Will 750W be enough? I'm thinking of selling this GX 750 and getting a Corsair 750/800W that will hopefully be modular.


Not so sure about the quality of your unit but a good 650w would be more than enough with extra headroom. That said a quality 550w is perfect for CF 6850, they draw very little power and very similar (I think it's a little less actually) to 460s in terms of power consumtion. Something like these come to mind:

XFX 550w Core non modular *$50*

I don't know many modular 550w and if there are any.

or you could go for a 650w PSU like this:

Corsair TX650 V2  *$110* semi modular (I think)

Or a semi modular like mine (XFX XXX Edition)

Anyways these are some options for you if your looking to buy a PSU.


----------



## iLLGT3

I've got this Corsair HX 750 in my wishlist.

I assume it is semi-modular.


----------



## SgtHop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SgtHop*


Been a while since I posted in this thread, but I've encountered an unusual quirk since putting this board in my main rig. Every time I turn the computer on, I am unable to connect to the internet, despite the machine not being connected to the network in any way. Is there any part of the board that would cause that kind of interference.

Note, the interference is on WiFi.


Nobody? *******.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


My one question is, my cheap MS wireless mouse doesn't work very well in the uefi bios. Not a huge deal because I've never had the luxury of mouse support in bios before. It just kinda hovers in the corner and it doesn't really work at all.


Which USB port is it plugged into? Is it in a USB 2.0 port, or a USB 3.0 port?

If it is in a USB 3.0 port, then plug it into a USB 2.0 port. The manual explains why:

_"Due to USB 3.0 controller limitation, USB 3.0 devices can only be used under Windows OS environment and after the USB 3.0 driver installation"_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TFL Replica*


That's odd because my laptop's wireless mouse works fine in its USB 3.0 port.


That's because you're using it in an operating system. If your laptop had a UEFI, then your mouse would not work in it. You'd need to have it connected to a USB 2.0 port in order to use it in its UEFI (again, if it had one).

The manual for our motherboards says this:

_"Due to USB 3.0 controller limitation, USB 3.0 devices can only be used under Windows OS environment and after the USB 3.0 driver installation"_

That's why it works just fine for you in your laptop. Try using your mouse in your P8P67's UEFI with the mouse connected to a USB 3.0 port.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Running 4.5ghz no problem, only thing is my temps are a little high...

I am going to re-apply some thermal paste and make sure I am covering the whole surface. If I want to get below 70c, should I turn off HT? Has anyone got decent temps wit HT on at 4.5gHz with my cooler? 212+

Core 2 got up to 78c so I stopped the test. Other cores were around 71c-72c.

Re-applying thermal paste now and I will report back to what my findings are.


Did you apply paste in between the pipes? Here's what I mean:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

Also, what do you do with your computer? I mean, what else do you do besides gaming? Do you do anything that takes advantage of HyperThreading? Gaming doesn't, but there are things that do. If you don't, then disable it because it limits your overclocking potential, raises temperatures, and reduces gaming performance a little bit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


NM, I fixed it. It was the optical drive in the wrong port


The only SATA devices that should be connected to any of the SATA III ports are SATA III devices. Even then, I strongly recommend avoiding the navy blue SATA ports because they are controlled by the Marvell controller.

Check out my Onboard Devices Configuration to see what you may be able to disable:

http://home.comcast.net/~twocables/UEFI%20Screenshots/Advanced%20-%20Onboard%20Devices%20Configuration.png

http://home.comcast.net/~twocables/UEFI%20Screenshots/Advanced%20-%20Onboard%20Devices%20Configuration%202.png

http://home.comcast.net/~twocables/UEFI%20Screenshots/Advanced%20-%20Onboard%20Devices%20Configuration%20-%20Serial%20Port.png










Quote:



Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*


I've got this Corsair HX 750 in my wishlist.

I assume it is semi-modular.


Yeah, it is modular. If you want reassurance, then study Newegg's photos. Or, look at the description or look at the Specifications tab.

However, all you need is a quality 550W to 650W power supply to power a system that has two 6850s in it. Seriously. AMD recommends a 500W peak-rated power supply to handle a system that has just one 6850 in it, and any _quality_ power supply that I recommend is a _continuous_-rated unit. This means that a 550W continuous-rated unit has a larger capacity than any 550W peak-rated unit because the continuous-rated unit is able to continuously deliver 550W. A 550W peak-rated unit cannot continuously deliver 550W; on average, a 550W peak-rated unit might be able to continuously deliver 400 to 450W at best.

Either way, I sincerely hope you get rid of that Cooler Master GX. That thing is actually pretty terrible.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SgtHop*


Been a while since I posted in this thread, but I've encountered an unusual quirk since putting this board in my main rig. Every time I turn the computer on, I am unable to connect to the internet, despite the machine not being connected to the network in any way. Is there any part of the board that would cause that kind of interference.

Note, the interference is on WiFi.


I'm confused. I mean, you said it's not connected to the network. My first reaction is this: _"the reason why it's not working is because it's not connected. So, connect it to the network and it will work"_.

So, can you elaborate on how it's all hooked up and whatnot? Also, do you ever get access to the internet?


----------



## SgtHop

What I mean is that when I turn on the computer, the internet disconnects for all of my computers on WiFi, despite the fact that the computer I turn on is not connected to the network in any way. I come to this forum because it happened as soon as I put the Z68 in it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SgtHop*


What I mean is that when I turn on the computer, the internet disconnects for all of my computers on WiFi, despite the fact that the computer I turn on is not connected to the network in any way. I come to this forum because it happened as soon as I put the Z68 in it.


Ok. Now I understand it very clearly.

The only things I can think of that _might_ be causing this to happen are things like having the board's built-in Bluetooth enabled, or having the Spread Spectrums _disabled_ (CPU Spread Spectrum and VRM Spread Spectrum).


----------



## SgtHop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Ok. Now I understand it very clearly.

The only things I can think of that _might_ be causing this to happen are things like having the board's built-in Bluetooth enabled, or having the Spread Spectrums _disabled_ (CPU Spread Spectrum and VRM Spread Spectrum).


What would having the spread specturm disabled be doing that would interfere with my internet connection?


----------



## Tennobanzai

Here's a pic of my WS Rev with my old 580. Great board btw. I notice it uses slightly less voltage then my Pro


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SgtHop*


What would having the spread specturm disabled be doing that would interfere with my internet connection?


With Spread Spectrum enabled, it's supposed to block (or reduce?) EMI (Electro-Magnetic Interference). I believe that it's possible that EMI can interfere with the wireless network signal.

So if you have both disabled, then enable them. Or, at least enable CPU Spread Spectrum. Besides, the only reason for disabling it is if you want to adjust the BCLK.


----------



## SgtHop

Both are enabled, and there is no change. I'm on the wired now, and it's even affecting that. Realized that it's not really preventing me from connecting to the internet, just putting the latency through the roof.

On wired it's giving me like...80ms ping to a local machine, but on wifi, it was doing +500ms. Either way, this ain't cool, yo.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SgtHop*


Both are enabled, and there is no change. I'm on the wired now, and it's even affecting that. Realized that it's not really preventing me from connecting to the internet, just putting the latency through the roof.

On wired it's giving me like...80ms ping to a local machine, but on wifi, it was doing +500ms. Either way, this ain't cool, yo.


I don't know anything about the way Bluetooth works, but is it still enabled? Do you need it by chance?

I'm just trying to think of things that might cause interference in some way or another.


----------



## SgtHop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I don't know anything about the way Bluetooth works, but is it still enabled? Do you need it by chance?

I'm just trying to think of things that might cause interference in some way or another.


Oh, no, that was the first thing I turned off.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SgtHop*


Oh, no, that was the first thing I turned off.


Dammit.

Well I am all out of ideas. I mean, if you also have VRM Spread Spectrum enabled as well, then I can't think of anything else.


----------



## SgtHop

Yeah, both of them are enabled.

This just totally baffles me. I've never heard of anything like this happening. I don't even know what I'd google regarding it.


----------



## orlywutlol

Quick question.. I noticed I have to hold my power button down for about a 1/2 second before the system powers on. It's not quite instant on as I'm used to. Is this normal for the P8P67?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*


Quick question.. I noticed I have to hold my power button down for about a 1/2 second before the system powers on. It's not quite instant on as I'm used to. Is this normal for the P8P67?


Yeah it's normal, but you don't have to hold the button down until it turns on.







Just press it and then wait.

(try it)


----------



## SgtHop

Alright, I guess. Problem solved by moving the computer to the other side of the room.


----------



## TwoCables

Well, that's certainly the strangest thing I've ever seen so far regarding these boards.


----------



## jamborhgini313

I returned the z68-v for p67 pro and got some new vengeance ram. Hope I'm trouble free this time


----------



## SgtHop

And yes, it is very strange. Oh well, I wanted the computer to be on this side of the room anyways, just been lazy bout it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


I returned the z68-v for p67 pro and got some new vengeance ram. Hope I'm trouble free this time


Since I don't want to go sifting through the thread, I'll just straight up ask you, what sort of problems did you have with your Z68-V?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SgtHop*


And yes, it is very strange. Oh well, I wanted the computer to be on this side of the room anyways, just been lazy bout it.

Since I don't want to go sifting through the thread, I'll just straight up ask you, what sort of problems did you have with your Z68-V?


Ram capatability. It was a good board but my ram slots were doa or idk if its the ram I had earlier


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Ram capatability. It was a good board but my ram slots were doa or idk if its the ram I had earlier


Oh yeah, I remember now: it seemed like the first 2 slots (black and blue) were dead!


----------



## SgtHop

Huh. That sucks. Oh well, guess you got it squared away.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Ya its weird cause at my local frys, every asus mobo there was returned except for like 1 pro which I got and a evo. There was like 15 returned z68 pros


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Ya its weird cause at my local frys, every asus mobo there was returned except for like 1 pro which I got and a evo. There was like 15 returned z68 pros


Yeah, well these are also the most-purchased 1155 boards.


----------



## TwoCables

With my VCCIO at 1.13750V, Prime95 Blend only lasted a little more than 3 hours. So, I have decided to put VCCSA back to Auto and my VCCIO at 1.14375V for later testing. I'm beginning to think that using a manual setting for VCCSA at 0.925V instead of Auto might be the problem because I didn't use a manual setting until I began experimenting with my VCCIO, and I had a rock-solid stable overclock before.

Here are the settings I have always had with the exception of VCCSA and VCCIO due to the way I've been experimenting:

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-29-1T 
*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto

*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.14375V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto

My settings (or "template") that are posted in the OP right now show a VCCIO of "Auto". However, it should probably just say "1.15625V" because that's where I just carelessly stuck my VCCIO and then ended up easily exceeding 12 hours of Prime95's Blend test without any of the 4 workers failing (VCCSA was on Auto at that time). Although, *now *I have VCCSA back to Auto, and I'm going to see how low I can get my VCCIO (starting with 1.14375V). lol









With my VCCSA on Auto, I have a little feeling that I might be able to finally get my VCCIO as low as perhaps 1.10000V or so.







I'm kinda doubting it right now, but my goal is actually 1.00000V. lol

*Edit:* I had turrican change it to "Auto" in the OP when I began all of this experimenting.


----------



## blab8811

Add me please! I have the Pro!


----------



## turrican9

*SgtHop*

Maybe there was some magnetic interference from speakers or something? Sub-woofer or other speakers placed close to your system?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blab8811;14507362*
> Add me please! I have the Pro!


I'll add you in a moment. Welcome to the Club


----------



## TwoCables

Oh hey turrican!







I forgot to ask: when you couldn't get your system to pass 1344K, what did you have to do with your settings to get it to pass?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14507926*
> Oh hey turrican!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to ask: when you couldn't get your system to pass 1344K, what did you have to do with your settings to get it to pass?


I found by testing, that the most sensitive FFT's, those who needed the most Vcore to pass, was the 1344KB and 1792KB FFT's. 1792KB FFT was even worse than the 1344KB FFT.

My point was that I believe I have isolated the two worst FFT's in Blend. This way one can jump straight on these two FFT's and run them for a while to see if they will pass. If these two will pass, I have found that it is almost certain a regular 12 hours + run will pass with no problems.

So by isolatating the two worst, and pump Vcore until they pass for 15 - 30 minutes each, you have a very, very good chance of passing the regular preset. Other people have also confirmed my findings.

Keep in mind, this is only tested for Vcore related issues. Has not been tested as regards to other stability problems.

Point is saving time when testing overclocking.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14507977*
> I found by testing, that the most sensitive FFT's, those who needed the most Vcore to pass, was the 1344KB and 1792KB FFT's. 1792KB FFT was even worse than the 1344KB FFT.
> 
> My point was that I believe I have isolated the two worst FFT's in Blend. This way one can jump straight on these two FFT's and run them for a while to see if they will pass. If these two will pass, I have found that it is almost certain a regular 12 hours + run will pass with no problems.
> 
> So by isolatating the two worst, and pump Vcore until they pass for 15 - 30 minutes each, you have a very, very good chance of passing the regular preset. Other people have also confirmed my findings.
> 
> Keep in mind, this is only tested for Vcore related issues. Has not been tested as regards to other stability problems.
> 
> Point is saving time when testing overclocking.


I remember all that, but what I didn't remember is what you had to do to get past them.

So, all you had to do was increase the core voltage? Have you adjusted the VCCIO or even the VCCSA?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14507999*
> I remember all that, but what I didn't remember is what you had to do to get past them.
> 
> So, all you had to do was increase the core voltage? Have you adjusted the VCCIO or even the VCCSA?


Yes, increase Vcore. My testing has indicated that these two will require the most Vcore out of all FFT's. And especially the 1792KB FFT.

Edit: No, VCCIO and VCCSA has done nothing for me.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14508017*
> Yes, increase Vcore. My testing has indicated that these two will require the most Vcore out of all FFT's. And especially the 1792KB FFT.


Well, the interesting thing to me is that back before I started experimenting with VCCSA and VCCIO, I had VCCSA at Auto and VCCIO at 1.15625 and it was able to pass 12 hours of Prime95 (with the current settings in the OP, except for a VCCIO of 1.15625V).

So far, I haven't been able to get Prime95 to last more than ~3 to 6 hours while using a manual setting of VCCSA at 0.925V and a lower VCCIO. I started with a VCCIO of 1.0000V, and I even got all the way up to 1.14375V without ever changing the VCCSA from 0.925V, and Prime95 never lasted more than 6 hours. It was usually less.

So I'm kind of giving up on this experiment (it was just for fun anyway). As of right now, I put my VCCSA back to Auto, and I left my VCCIO at 1.14375V. I mean, I'm going to start lowering the VCCIO bit by bit until it's not stable for 12 hours in Prime95 while always leaving my VCCSA on Auto. I have a feeling that I'll discover that it was my manual setting of VCCSA at 0.925V holding me back the entire time. Or perhaps I really do need 1.15625V. I'll certainly find out over the course of the next few days or so!









This has been so fun that I haven't even _begun_ overclocking my GTX 580 yet, and I've had it for 3 weeks now!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14508132*
> Well, the interesting thing to me is that back before I started experimenting with VCCSA and VCCIO, I had VCCSA at Auto and VCCIO at 1.15625 and it was able to pass 12 hours of Prime95 (with the current settings in the OP, except for a VCCIO of 1.15625V).
> 
> So far, I haven't been able to get Prime95 to last more than ~3 to 6 hours while using a manual setting of VCCSA at 0.925V and a lower VCCIO. I started with a VCCIO of 1.0000V, and I even got all the way up to 1.14375V without ever changing the VCCSA from 0.925V, and Prime95 never lasted more than 6 hours. It was usually less.
> 
> So I'm kind of giving up on this experiment (it was just for fun anyway). As of right now, I put my VCCSA back to Auto, and I left my VCCIO at 1.14375V. I mean, I'm going to start lowering the VCCIO bit by bit until it's not stable for 12 hours in Prime95 while always leaving my VCCSA on Auto. I have a feeling that I'll discover that it was my manual setting of VCCSA at 0.925V holding me back the entire time. Or perhaps I really do need 1.15625V. I'll certainly find out over the course of the next few days or so!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been so fun that I haven't even _begun_ overclocking my GTX 580 yet, and I've had it for 3 weeks now!


I think that it depends very much on what RAM you have, and what speed/Volts it runs at, as to how high you need you're VCCIO. Mine is fine at AUTO (1.050v). Giving it more does nothing for me. Same with VCCSA. However, I'm at 1600 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v.

Vcore is the only thing helping me.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14508182*
> I think that it depends very much on what RAM you have, and what speed/Volts it runs at, as to how high you need you're VCCIO. Mine is fine at AUTO (1.050v). Giving it more does nothing for me. Same with VCCSA. However, I'm at 1600 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v.
> 
> Vcore is the only thing helping me.


Interesting.

Well, Juan Jose (maybe I should just call him "J.J." instead?) said that when the VCCIO is on Auto, the board tends to use more than is necessary. So I'm going to search for the lowest necessary VCCIO.

If I find that I get perfect stability even with a VCCIO of less than 1.00000V, then I may just stick it at 1.00000V and leave it.







Of course, if that happens, then I'm definitely never adjusting the VCCSA again. After all, it's not like I need to do any fine-tuning since I'm just doing simple overclocking as opposed to more complex, extreme overclocking.

It's just that I read that increasing the VCCIO can allow for a lower core voltage, and I'm already at 1.392-1.400V.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14508209*
> Interesting.
> 
> Well, Juan Jose (maybe I should just call him "J.J." instead?) said that when the VCCIO is on Auto, the board tends to use more than is necessary. So I'm going to search for the lowest necessary VCCIO.
> 
> If I find that I get perfect stability even with a VCCIO of less than 1.00000V, then I may just stick it at 1.00000V and leave it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, if that happens, then I'm definitely never adjusting the VCCSA again. After all, it's not like I need to do any fine-tuning since I'm just doing simple overclocking as opposed to more complex, extreme overclocking.
> 
> It's just that I read that increasing the VCCIO can allow for a lower core voltage, and I'm already at 1.392-1.400V.


In some systems it may allow a lower Vcore. I think it's very much related to the type of RAM/speed used. Certain RAM, at certain speeds can affect the overclocking potential of the CPU.. In these cases I'm sure that adjusting VCCIO can have a large impact on the Vcore. I've heard it's more common with really high speed RAM though. 1600MHz should usually not need any higher VCCIO than normal.

For my system, as I've said, did nothing. I've tested it. This is something each person must test for their setup.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14508264*
> In some systems it may allow a lower Vcore. I think it's very much related to the type of RAM/speed used. Certain RAM, at certain speeds can affect the overclocking potential of the CPU.. In these cases I'm sure that adjusting VCCIO can have a large impact on the Vcore. I've heard it's more common with really high speed RAM though. 1600MHz should usually not need any higher VCCIO than normal.
> 
> For my system, as I've said, did nothing. I've tested it. This is something each person must test for their setup.


Hmm. Then I wonder if my results are due to my memory being 1866MHz at stock.

Either way, I'm having a blast. hehe


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14508289*
> Hmm. Then I wonder if my results are due to my memory being 1866MHz at stock.
> 
> Either way, I'm having a blast. hehe


Yes, 1866 is considered above normal speed. So that could be it. We must not forget where the mem controller is located in a 1155 system









You may have gotten away with lower VCCIO if 2x2GB 1866 VS 2x4GB 1866 mem.

As a side note, anything over 1600 9-9-9-24 yields very little performance gain on Sandy. It is even hard to meassure the speed difference in benchmarks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14508331*
> Yes, 1866 is considered above normal speed. So that could be it. We must not forget where the mem controller is located in a 1155 system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may have gotten away with lower VCCIO if 2x2GB 1866 VS 2x4GB 1866 mem.
> 
> As a side note, anything over 1600 9-9-9-24 yields very little performance gain on Sandy. It is even hard to meassure the speed difference in benchmarks.


Yeah, but the bit-tech guide "The Best Memory For Sandy Bridge" showed me that 1866MHz CL9 is ever-so-slightly better than 1600MHz CL8.







Plus, the blue 2 x 4GB 1600MHz CL8 Ripjaws X was not in stock when I was finally ready to order.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14508368*
> Yeah, but the bit-tech guide "The Best Memory For Sandy Bridge" showed me that 1866MHz CL9 is ever-so-slightly better than 1600MHz CL8.


If you look at this test, the differences are so small that they could just aswell be only the margin of error








Quote:


> Even though there's merely a $34 price difference between the fastest and slowest memory tested today, I still don't believe there's any value in the more expensive memory kits on the Sandy Bridge platform. Once you have enough bandwidth (DDR3-1600 at a small $9-$10 price premium), there's just not enough of a performance increase beyond that to justify the additional cost, even when it's only $34 between 4GB kits. Once you jump to the 8GB kits, the price difference for CL9 DDR3-1600 is a mere $8, but it becomes much more pronounced at $92 to move to DDR3-2133. We simply can't justify such a price difference based on our testing.


----------



## pepejovi

So which one would you guys think is better for a 2500k?

ASRock Extreme4

or

Asus P8Z68-V?

Both cost 144€


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pepejovi;14508421*
> So which one would you guys think is better for a 2500k?
> 
> ASRock Extreme4
> 
> or
> 
> Asus P8Z68-V?
> 
> Both cost 144€


Well, This is the ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Owners Club, so what answer do you want ? LOL!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14508400*
> If you look at this test, the differences are so small that they could just aswell be only the margin of error


I know.









But, I studied that bit-tech article carefully and slowly and that was enough for me.







One of the reasons I studied it is because Newegg ran out of the blue 2 x 4GB 1600MHz CL8 Ripjaws X kits, and so I wanted to see what else I should look at. When I learned was that I could get the 1866MHz CL9 kit that I have for just $5 more and have ever-so-slightly superior performance for several things.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pepejovi;14508421*
> So which one would you guys think is better for a 2500k?
> 
> ASRock Extreme4
> 
> or
> 
> Asus P8Z68-V?
> 
> Both cost 144€


If you really do want a biased answer, then you're in the right place.









What kind of overclock do you want? Overclocking with air cooling doesn't need all that impressive of a motherboard. Even the plain old P8P67 would probably get the the same 4.8GHz I have now.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14508494*
> I know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I studied that bit-tech article carefully and slowly and that was enough for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons I studied it is because Newegg ran out of the blue 2 x 4GB 1600MHz CL8 Ripjaws X kits, and so I wanted to see what else I should look at. When I learned was that I could get the 1866MHz CL9 kit that I have for just $5 more and have ever-so-slightly superior performance for several things.


Yeah, here on the OCN, the word 'fast enough' is not common







The faster the better, even if it's ever so slightly faster


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14508536*
> Yeah, here on the OCN, the word 'fast enough' is not common
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The faster the better, even if it's ever so slightly faster


Amen, my OCN brother. hehe


----------



## pepejovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14508494*
> If you really do want a biased answer, then you're in the right place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of overclock do you want? Overclocking with air cooling doesn't need all that impressive of a motherboard. Even the plain old P8P67 would probably get the the same 4.8GHz I have now.


I should have put this information in the first post...

First thing i want from it is Overclocking ability, which most mobos have, second would be crossfire, as in 8x/8x or better PCI-E slots.

I'm probably going to overclock the 2500k as high as i reasonably can without going above the safe voltage limit and don't get too high temps.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pepejovi;14508629*
> I should have put this information in the first post...
> 
> First thing i want from it is Overclocking ability, which most mobos have, second would be crossfire, as in 8x/8x or better PCI-E slots.
> 
> I'm probably going to overclock the 2500k as high as i reasonably can without going above the safe voltage limit and don't get too high temps.


So then will it definitely be with air cooling?

If so, then I recommend either the P8Z68-V PRO, or the P8P67 Pro.

However, the Z68 chipset is not any more overclockable than the P67 chipset.


----------



## Smo

Hi guys,

I could use your help please - I'm trying to hit 4.8GHz on my i5 2500k with a P8P67 Pro B3 motherboard. Unfortunately I'm not having much luck! I followed TwoCables' settings here;

Quote:



Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 48
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: Use your memory speed
DRAM Timing Control: Use your timings as shown in the far-right column of CPU-Z's Timings Table in the SPD tab. Don't worry about "tRC".
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: Experiment in increments of 0.005V. I need 0.040V.
DRAM Voltage: 1.5000V
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: 1.14375V (although, start with Auto)
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto or Disabled
CPU C6 Report: Auto or Disabled


However, my machine simply will not boot with the multiplier set to x48. I even tried offset voltage at +0.080 and it still kept freezing on the Windows logo.

Right now I loaded Optimized defaults and only changed the multiplier to 44 and VRM Freq. to 350 (my old overclock) to get me booted. I've just loaded CPU-Z and I'm sat on 4.4GHz (it's not dropping to idle) and it says my vcore is 1.368-1.376v - that seems far too high for 4.4GHz doesn't it?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Hi guys,

I could use your help please - I'm trying to hit 4.8GHz on my i5 2500k with a P8P67 Pro B3 motherboard. Unfortunately I'm not having much luck! I followed TwoCables' settings here;

However, my machine simply will not boot with the multiplier set to x48. I even tried offset voltage at +0.080 and it still kept freezing on the Windows logo.

Right now I loaded Optimized defaults and only changed the multiplier to 44 and VRM Freq. to 350 (my old overclock) to get me booted. I've just loaded CPU-Z and I'm sat on 4.4GHz (it's not dropping to idle) and it says my vcore is 1.368-1.376v - that seems far too high for 4.4GHz doesn't it?


Try to enable Internal PLL Overvoltage


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Try to enable Internal PLL Overvoltage










Thanks - I'll reboot and enable PPL Overvoltage on top of TwoCable's settings and see what happens









*Edit: *Thanks for the heads up - my machine has finally booted with the multiplier at 48, CPU-Z is now showing;










I also realised that I forgot to set my memory timings after resetting the BIOS to default settings! Douche!

However it's not dropping to idle, is there a way to re-enable this please? I don't really want it running at 4.8GHz 24/7. So far the highest the vcore has hit (according to CPU-Z) is 1.416v, which I'm fairly pleased about!

Lastly, even though I've set my memory to DDR3-1600MHz in the BIOS, CPU-Z is showing a DRAM frequency of 800MHz, did I do something wrong?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Thanks - I'll reboot and enable PPL Overvoltage on top of TwoCable's settings and see what happens









*Edit: *Thanks for the heads up - my machine has finally booted with the multiplier at 48, CPU-Z is now showing;










I also realised that I forgot to set my memory timings after resetting the BIOS to default settings! Douche!

However it's not dropping to idle, is there a way to re-enable this please? I don't really want it running at 4.8GHz 24/7. So far the highest the vcore has hit (according to CPU-Z) is 1.416v, which I'm fairly pleased about!

Lastly, even though I've set my memory to DDR3-1600MHz in the BIOS, CPU-Z is showing a DRAM frequency of 800MHz, did I do something wrong?


What bios are you on? If older then 1704 bios, it takes awhile (couple of minutes) before it clocks down when you've entered Windows. However, it will clock instantly down if you give it load then unload again.

1704 and 1850 bios will clock it down the second you enter Windows.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


What bios are you on? If older then 1704 bios, it takes awhile (couple of minutes) before it clocks down when you've entered Windows. However, it will clock instantly down if you give it load then unload again.

1704 and 1850 bios will clock it down the second you enter Windows.


I'm on the latest (1850) - I updated about half an hour ago.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


I'm on the latest (1850) - I updated about half an hour ago.


Then go to control panel, power options and select 'balanced settings' instead of 'performance'.


----------



## jamborhgini313

You need to enable Speedstep, c1,c6 in the bios.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Then go to control panel, power options and select 'balanced settings' instead of 'performance'.


Genius! That's sorted it, thanks









I guess now all I can do is keep running Prime95 until I'm satisfied that the clock is stable! However if you'll forgive me I have one, and extremely stupid question which has probably been answered a billion times... what's the maximum vcore I should allow at this overclock? I understand 1.43/1.44 is considered the top end of safe?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


You need to enable Speedstep, c1,c6 in the bios.


Thanks for taking the time to reply mate, but those options are still enabled - it was the power settings in my Control Panel that were stopping the downclock.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Genius! That's sorted it, thanks









I guess now all I can do is keep running Prime95 until I'm satisfied that the clock is stable! However if you'll forgive me I have one, and extremely stupid question which has probably been answered a billion times... what's the maximum vcore I should allow at this overclock? I understand 1.43/1.44 is considered the top end of safe?


No one, really knows. But I believe the ASUS guy 'Juan Jose' said 1.425v in that Newegg UEFI presentation Video in the fist post of this Club. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

However, there are people who have been running for months at 1.500 + with no trouble.

Probably depends on the use...

Personally I will stay below 1.45v Vcore for 24/7. If you need much more then this it's not worth the overclock in my opinion.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


No one, really knows. But I believe the ASUS guy 'Juan Jose' said 1.425v in that Newegg UEFI presentation Video in the fist post of this Club. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

However, there are people who have been running for months at 1.500 + with no trouble.

Probably depends on the use...

Personally I will stay below 1.45v Vcore for 24/7. If you need much more then this it's not worth the overclock in my opinion.


Cheers - for now I'm at bang on 1.440v for 4.8GHz @ 69c running Prime95 Blend Test for 6 minutes. I had to up my offset to +0.065 to stop worker 2 from failing, which is where I'm at now.

If it proves to be unstable over 1.45v then I'll drop the multiplier down to 47.

...and as I type, worker 1 fails









I'll try offset +0.070 and see what happens. Pretty much last try though, I don't really want to go higher than that.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Cheers - for now I'm at bang on 1.440v for 4.8GHz @ 69c running Prime95 Blend Test for 6 minutes. I had to up my offset to +0.060 to stop worker 2 from failing, which is where I'm at now.

If it proves to be unstable over 1.45v then I'll drop the multiplier down to 47.

...and as I type, worker 1 fails









I'll try offset +0.065 and see what happens. Pretty much last try though, I don't really want to go higher than that.


Try Blend Custom and type in 1792KB for min. and max FFT sizes. Also type in 6000MB RAM if you have 8GB. The 1792KB FFT seems to be the hardest of them all in my findings. So if you can pass this one for 15 - 30 minutes alone, it is a very good indicator you will manage the regular 12 hours + Blend preset. But even there I recommend to type in about 6000MB mem if you have 8GB RAM.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Try Blend Custom and type in 1792KB for min. and max FFT sizes. Also type in 6000MB RAM if you have 8GB. The 1792KB FFT seems to be the hardest of them all in my findings. So if you can pass this one for 15 - 30 minutes alone, it is a very good indicator you will manage the regular 12 hours + Blend preset. But even there I recommend to type in about 6000MB mem if you have 8GB RAM.


Thanks for that - I'm literally just about to hit Ok on those settings. Bring on half an hour (I'm totally loving overclocking, I understand why people do it, the andrenaline and anticipation is awesome).

vcore is now hitting 1.448v, don't want to go higher, so fingers crossed I can reach half an hour on your custom settings.

Wish me luck!

*Edit: *Fail. Worker #2 gave up after a few seconds. So close to stability I can taste it, but do I push that extra bit of vcore? What a bugger. Not sure if I should...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Thanks for that - I'm literally just about to hit Ok on those settings. Bring on half an hour (I'm totally loving overclocking, I understand why people do it, the andrenaline and anticipation is awesome).

vcore is now hitting 1.448v, don't want to go higher, so fingers crossed I can reach half an hour on your custom settings.

Wish me luck!


As I've said, many people use 1.500v + and are still fine. You seem to have good cooling. All these 2500K/2600K's differ greatly in how much Vcore they will need for a certain speed. Mine will do 4.8GHz with HT ON in the 1.40 - 1.42V range, however I just keep it at 4.6GHz and about 1.33 - 1.35v Vcore. It's plenty fast for me. Some even don't bother to overclock them. They are insanely fast when compared to older generations.

Well then... Good luck







Be sure to report back to us


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


As I've said, many people use 1.500v + and are still fine. You seem to have good cooling. All these 2500K/2600K's differ greatly in how much Vcore they will need for a certain speed. Mine will do 4.8GHz with HT ON in the 1.40 - 1.42V range, however I just keep it at 4.6GHz and about 1.33 - 1.35v Vcore. It's plenty fast for me. Some even don't bother to overclock them. They are insanely fast when compared to older generations.

Well then... Good luck








Be sure to report back to us










I massively appreciate your input, so thanks for taking the time out to help me. It's definitely a dangerous game this, it's gambling I suppose!

I've been weak and caved, I upped the offset to +0.075 but have seriously promised myself that if it fails your custom settings this time, I will not push further.

4.6GHz is a good compromise, so I think if it does fail this test (I'm fairly sure it will) then I'll back the offset down to +0.040 and aim for a stable x46 multiplier instead.

*Edit: *Worker #2 failed again - I had a thought. Could the instability possibly be caused by the fact that CPU-Z is telling me that my vcore is constantly fluctuating? Would it be possible that manually setting my vcore to something like 1.448v could remedy the problem? If so, what settings would I need to 'undo' in order to achieve this?

Sorry for the millions of questions


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


I massively appreciate your input, so thanks for taking the time out to help me. It's definitely a dangerous game this, it's gambling I suppose!

I've been weak and caved, I upped the offset to +0.075 but have seriously promised myself that if it fails your custom settings this time, I will not push further.

4.6GHz is a good compromise, so I think if it does fail this test (I'm fairly sure it will) then I'll back the offset down to +0.040 and aim for a stable x46 multiplier instead.

*Edit: *Worker #2 failed again - I had a thought. Could the instability possibly be caused by the fact that CPU-Z is telling me that my vcore is constantly fluctuating? Would it be possible that manually setting my vcore to something like 1.448v could remedy the problem? If so, what settings would I need to 'undo' in order to achieve this?

Sorry for the millions of questions










You could also try upping VCCIO voltage to see if you can get a lower Vcore. VCCIO is safe all the way up to 1.200v. If this does not help, try more Vcore.

I had a 2500K that needed in the 1.44v Vcore range in order to be 4.7GHz Blend stable. And I never got 4.8GHz stable on it. So they all differ.


----------



## TwoCables

I'm about to reply. I need a moment.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Thanks - I'll reboot and enable PPL Overvoltage on top of TwoCable's settings and see what happens









*Edit: *Thanks for the heads up - my machine has finally booted with the multiplier at 48, CPU-Z is now showing;










I also realised that I forgot to set my memory timings after resetting the BIOS to default settings! Douche!

However it's not dropping to idle, is there a way to re-enable this please? I don't really want it running at 4.8GHz 24/7. So far the highest the vcore has hit (according to CPU-Z) is 1.416v, which I'm fairly pleased about!

Lastly, even though I've set my memory to DDR3-1600MHz in the BIOS, CPU-Z is showing a DRAM frequency of 800MHz, did I do something wrong?


Instead of using Internal PLL Overvoltage (which may or may not be required), let's try other avenues first. That's strongly recommended by the experts.

First, let's start increasing the VCCIO. For starters, let's go straight to 1.15000V just to see what happens (again, with Internal PLL Overvoltage disabled).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Then go to control panel, power options and select 'balanced settings' instead of 'performance'.


I'm using these settings, but yet mine still instantly downclocks and the voltage goes way down instantly upon idle:










This is an old screenshot (it is #4 of a total of 5), but these are always my settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


You need to enable Speedstep, c1,c6 in the bios.


C6 should be disabled when using an Offset voltage because if it's enabled, then BSODs are very likely while the system is idling. The same goes for C3.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Genius! That's sorted it, thanks










But not necessary (see my screenshot above). Make sure Enhanced Intel Speedstep and C1E are enabled with C3 and C6 on Auto. Also, make sure CPU Spread Spectrum is enabled. When I say "enabled", I don't mean "Auto".









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


I guess now all I can do is keep running Prime95 until I'm satisfied that the clock is stable! However if you'll forgive me I have one, and extremely stupid question which has probably been answered a billion times... what's the maximum vcore I should allow at this overclock? I understand 1.43/1.44 is considered the top end of safe?


For 24/7 use, approximately 1.425V is the maximum. For suicide runs, CPU-Z validations and benchmarks, the maximum can be about 1.525V or even a little higher.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Thanks for taking the time to reply mate, but those options are still enabled - it was the power settings in my Control Panel that were stopping the downclock.


I don't know about that...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Thanks for that - I'm literally just about to hit Ok on those settings. Bring on half an hour (I'm totally loving overclocking, I understand why people do it, the andrenaline and anticipation is awesome).

vcore is now hitting 1.448v, don't want to go higher, so fingers crossed I can reach half an hour on your custom settings.


1.448V? What is your CPU Offset Voltage set to?


----------



## Smo

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to reply!

I've just gone into my BIOS and made any changes to match your suggestions, so now PLL over voltage is disabled and the VCCIO is at 1.15000. C1E was on Auto but is now enabled.

My offset is currently at +0.075.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Firstly, thanks for taking the time to reply!

I've just gone into my BIOS and made any changes to match your suggestions, so now PLL over voltage is disabled and the VCCIO is at 1.15000. C1E was on Auto but is now enabled.

My offset is currently at +0.075.


+0.075 is large. Won't it work with less?

(you're very welcome, by the way!)


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

On the ASUS P8P67 series (Probably P8Z68 series too) you cannot disable the downclocking from bios. This is because if you disable C1 Speedstep in these boards, that will also disable Turbo.

So only in Windows it seems as when Power Options is on 'perfromance mode' some get stuck on full speed. May be some sub settings causing it. I think my system defaulted to 'Balanced mode'.

I've never heard that upping VCCIO voltage can remedy the need for Internal PLL Overvoltage? Many CPU's need this feature on at those higher multipliers. Though it will differ as to what multi from CPU to CPU.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*TwoCables*

On the ASUS P8P67 series (Probably P8Z68 series too) you cannot disable the downclocking from bios. This is because if you disable C1 Speedstep in these boards, that will also disable Turbo.

So only in Windows it seems as when Power Options is on 'perfromance mode' some get stuck on full speed. May be some sub settings causing it. I think my system defaulted to 'Balanced mode'.

I've never heard that upping VCCIO voltage can remedy the need for Internal PLL Overvoltage? Many CPU's need this feature on at those higher multipliers. Though it will differ as to what multi from CPU to CPU.


All I am hoping to do is follow J.J.'s recommendation of trying everything else first instead of going straight for Internal PLL Overvoltage.

Anyway, thank you for the heads up.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


+0.075 is large. Won't it work with less?

(you're very welcome, by the way!)


It would boot, yes. However worker #2 would always fail after a few minutes. At this time it was suggested that I should try some custom settings in Prime95 - I've been upping the offset since to try and survive around 30 minutes on those new settings.

Your suggestion of disabling PLL and increasing the VCCIO means I can now boot (which I couldn't before without PLL) but it fails the custom Prime settings in a few seconds.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


All I am hoping to do is follow J.J.'s recommendation of trying everything else first instead of going straight for Internal PLL Overvoltage.

Anyway, thank you for the heads up.


Don't mention it mate









Also, you must not forget that you have a fairly good 2500K. It will do 4.8GHz at a nice Vcore and it will do it with Internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled.

Many of these needs PLL Overvoltage option enabled for 48x multi and up.. in fact, I think that is more common than not. Also, some of these/many need alot more Vcore than yours.

As I've said, the 2500K I had, prior to this 2600K, it needed about 1.44v Vcore for 4.7GHz and never got it Blend stable at 4.8GHz. Was almost up to 1.5v Vcore. It also required PLL Overvoltage for 48x multi and up. And there was no way around it.

So keep this in mind, these CPU's differ alot.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


It would boot, yes. However worker #2 would always fail after a few minutes. At this time it was suggested that I should try some custom settings in Prime95 - I've been upping the offset since to try and survive around 30 minutes on those new settings.

Your suggestion of disabling PLL and increasing the VCCIO means I can now boot (which I couldn't before without PLL) but it fails the custom Prime settings in a few seconds.


Very interesting. So you could now boot at 48x with Internal PLL disabled, when upping VCCIO.

This did not work on my previous 2500K. Only goes to show how these CPU's/RAM combinations will differ as regards to what they respond to.


----------



## TwoCables

This must be why J.J. recommends trying everything else possible before enabling Internal PLL Overvoltage.









So now what's your vcore under load, Smo?


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Very interesting. So you could now boot at 48x with Internal PLL disabled, when upping VCCIO.

This did not work on my previous 2500K. Only goes to show how these CPU's/RAM combinations will differ as regards to what they respond to.


Exactly right - yeah. Unfotunately though the Mrs has put her foot down and I have been told to come to bed! I won't be able to continue with the overclock until I finish work tomorrow evening now (which sucks - I'm wide awake and determined to get this thing stable).

Thanks for all your help so far guys - I certainly wohldn't have been able to come this far without it. I'm looking forward to continuing this tomorrow.


----------



## turrican9

Now I wonder why sometimes my 2600K will no longer boot Windows at x50 multi + when CPU PLL disabled. Other times it will, but after a shutdown it may not. And when this happens it will also require a bit higher Vcore.

Maybe I should try and up VCCIO with this CPU







Just because my last one did not respond to it, this one may. These CPU's have built in NB, in many ways. So I'm not one bit surprised they differ alot..


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


This must be why J.J. recommends trying everything else possible before enabling Internal PLL Overvoltage.









So now what's your vcore under load, Smo?


As far as I remember it was 1.440v (down from 1.448v) but I'm in bed on my phone now unfortunately so can't check just yet - sorry!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Exactly right - yeah. Unfotunately though the Mrs has put her foot down and I have been told to come to bed! I won't be able to continue with the overclock until I finish work tomorrow evening now (which sucks - I'm wide awake and determined to get this thing stable).

Thanks for all your help so far guys - I certainly wohldn't have been able to come this far without it. I'm looking forward to continuing this tomorrow.


Awesome. We'll be here, and of course I hope to remember that you left off at 1.440V too.

Sleep well!


----------



## turrican9

Soon we can celebrate 3K posts in the Owners Club


----------



## Break

Hi folks, just got a p8z68 v-pro with my new pc.

I've got a problem with incorrect RAM frequency, wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue...

My ram is 1600mhz but with 'optimised defaults' in bios, it sets to 1333mhz. If I go into the bios and set it and 1600mhz manually (or even use the xmp setting) it changes to 1600 no problem and cpu-z confirms this but it has the bizzare effect of locking my cpu frequency to a constant 3.7Ghz.

Not sure if this is normal behaviour


----------



## jamborhgini313

Sigh* I ran ibt for 20 runs and it passed but when I play bfbc2 or prime95 blend it bsods with code 101


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Break*


Hi folks, just got a p8z68 v-pro with my new pc.

I've got a problem with incorrect RAM frequency, wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue...

My ram is 1600mhz but with 'optimised defaults' in bios, it sets to 1333mhz. If I go into the bios and set it and 1600mhz manually (or even use the xmp setting) it changes to 1600 no problem and cpu-z confirms this but it has the bizzare effect of locking my cpu frequency to a constant 3.7Ghz.

Not sure if this is normal behaviour










Even when you set the CPU multi manual?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Sigh* I ran ibt for 20 runs and it passed but when I play bfbc2 or prime95 blend it bsods with code 101


This is why Blend is the superior stability test for Sandybridge. I've said it many times, IBT, even with AVX enabled, is mostly good for heating the CPU up to unrealistic levels, but not very good at stability testing.

I only use Blend. And custom, typing in 6000MB. This way I have about 90% RAM use when running Blend.

I don't bother with IBT.


----------



## TwoCables

By the way, Break had his PC built by Aria.co.uk, he had a small issue, I had him load the optimized defaults, and so now this is where he's at.


----------



## munaim1

+rep to both cables and turrican for all the support and the amount of work they put into this fantastic club


----------



## Break

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14512979*
> Even when you set the CPU multi manual?


Sorry, i'm new to overclocking, im assuming you mean manually set the cpu multiplier?

Which particular option in the bios is this?

I just want the damn thing to run as it would normally







(1.6ghz to 3.7ghz).

Thanks


----------



## jamborhgini313

Idk how to get it prime stable I've tried everything. Longest while blending was like 25 mins then bso 101


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;14513138*
> Idk how to get it prime stable I've tried everything. Longest while blending was like 25 mins then bso 101


sorry if i've missed it, but what are your bios settings? 101 is usually vcore.


----------



## jamborhgini313

I've pumped like 1.52vcore and 1.875v pll. Right now its still blending tho.

Nope bsod. Fuuuuuuuuuu!


----------



## TheOctane

With my first self-built rig I choose....

The Asus P8P67 PRO!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, sounds like my board will be back in 7-10 business days (roughly). Tear...

They also said that 1.60a on the CPU fan header is safe. Still not sure I believe that, anybody else in here run over 1.0a worth of fans off the CPU fan header?


----------



## dlerch

Yes props to everyone who helped. This has to be the fastest and easiest build/OC I've ever attempted.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14512860*
> Awesome. We'll be here, and of course I hope to remember that you left off at 1.440V too.
> 
> Sleep well!


Cheers bud! On the commute to work already, always work, work, work.

I did some more reading and it's been suggested to me by another member to drop the multiplier and increase the BCLK, stating that it will require a lower voltage to become stable.

Would you say that this is accurate?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14514185*
> Well, sounds like my board will be back in 7-10 business days (roughly). Tear...
> 
> They also said that 1.60a on the CPU fan header is safe. Still not sure I believe that, anybody else in here run over 1.0a worth of fans off the CPU fan header?


Sad to hear that bud, hopefully you'll be up and running in no time.

Not sure about the fan header, sorry...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14516545*
> Cheers bud! On the commute to work already, always work, work, work.
> 
> I did some more reading and it's been suggested to me by another member to drop the multiplier and increase the BCLK, stating that it will require a lower voltage to become stable.
> 
> Would you say that this is accurate?


Not a good idea and not so sure about the less voltage but sandybridge overclocking is primarily done through the multiplier and NOT the BCLK.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14516566*
> Not a good idea and not so sure about the less voltage but sandybridge overclocking is primarily done through the multiplier and NOT the BCLK.


Thanks for replying - perhaps it's not a great idea then. Maybe I have 4.8GHz set in mind and am clutching at straws to achieve it! After all, my chip may not be capable of running it at a voltage I feel comfortable using.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14516615*
> Thanks for replying - perhaps it's not a great idea then. Maybe I have 4.8GHz set in mind and am clutching at straws to achieve it! After all, my chip may not be capable of running it at a voltage I feel comfortable using.


If it won't do it via multiplier only, it likely won't do it with adjusting the BCLK either.

I've toyed with mine though. Voltages stayed about the same, but raising BCLK up obviously will raise your RAM frequency too. In my opinion, that's the ONLY way to find the maximum stable clocks on everything, is by finding your limits on each part.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14516625*
> If it won't do it via multiplier only, it likely won't do it with adjusting the BCLK either.
> 
> I've toyed with mine though. Voltages stayed about the same, but raising BCLK up obviously will raise your RAM frequency too. In my opinion, that's the ONLY way to find the maximum stable clocks on everything, is by finding your limits on each part.


I had no idea it upped your RAM frequency too! I'm using 8GB (2x4GB) of G.Skill RipjawsX @ 8-8-8-24/1600MHz set in my BIOS with the RAM voltage at 1.50v - so could pushing the BCLK potentially cause an unstable clock on the memory?

I thought I might as well post what he said!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tept;14513536*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This could give you a baseline. I've seen a dozen different recommended safe voltage req's for these chips and I decided on a middle ground with a slight step to the left. 1.5v was someone, who made a very lengthy overclocking guide for Sandy Bridge, suggestion for the limit for max safe 24/7 voltage, this was the highest I found for safe daily use and 1 of the lowest I found was 1.4v. So I took a middle ground on that with the step, and chose 1.43v as my safemax and of course this depends on temps. You won't lose system idle with upping load line calibration. It might flucuate more than before but it won't just sit at max frequency the whole time.
> 
> Alot of cpu's dont like multipliers, a 44-45 multi and then tweaks to your bclk is what you wanna aim for. Seems BCLK requires less voltage than the hard multiplier. a 48 multi for me requires around 1.46v while I'm doing 4.770 right now @ 1.425v due to the high BCLK. And mine is about 10 runs of vantage, 5 of heaven, several games of SC2, 25 runs of Linx, 10 runs of IBT @ Very High, and 3hours of Prime95 blend stable.


----------



## slimex

Hi everyone,

Finally, as promised, here are the bios settings for my 17h+ custom blend stable overclock at 4,8Ghz. I will basically paste TwoCables' settings template, which is located on one of the first posts of this club, fill in the altered values and highlight them in green.

*Ai Tweaker*

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: *48*
Internal PLL Voltage: *Enabled*
Memory Frequency: *2133*
DRAM Timing Control: *CL 9 - 11 - 9 - 28 - 2T*
_(same like in X.M.P. except the 2T, which is 1T there)_
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: *140 Watt*
Long Duration Maintained: *32s*
_I set those values to prevent my system from clocking down (switching off turbo) frequently under load. Perhaps this has to do with the high RAM voltage of 1.65V_
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

*Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)*

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: *0.020V*
DRAM Voltage: *1.65V*
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: *1,15V*
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Auto

I am getting Vcores from 1.384V to 1.392V.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14517128*
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Finally, as promised, here are the bios settings for my 17h+ custom blend stable overclock at 4,8Ghz. I will basically paste TwoCables' settings template, which is located on one of the first posts of this club, fill in the altered values and highlight them in green.
> 
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: *48*
> Internal PLL Voltage: *Enabled*
> Memory Frequency: *2133*
> DRAM Timing Control: *CL 9 - 11 - 9 - 28 - 2T*
> _(same like in X.M.P. except the 2T, which is 1T there)_
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: *140 Watt*
> Long Duration Maintained: *32s*
> _I set those values to prevent my system from clocking down (switching off turbo) frequently under load. Perhaps this has to do with the high RAM voltage of 1.65V_
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)*
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: *0.020V*
> DRAM Voltage: *1.65V*
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: *1,15V*
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto
> 
> I am getting Vcores from 1.384V to 1.392V.


I wish my i5 would hit 4.8GHz stable at voltage like that! I'm trying to hit 4.8GHz with 1.440 at the moment, worker 1 keeps failing during a custom blend test. I'm hoping I can manage some further tweaking to get it somewhere around a similar voltage as you (if my chip allows).


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14517211*
> I wish my i5 would hit 4.8GHz stable at voltage like that! I'm trying to hit 4.8GHz with 1.440 at the moment, worker 1 keeps failing during a custom blend test. I'm hoping I can manage some further tweaking to get it somewhere around a similar voltage as you (if my chip allows).


Yes, it seems that I had a bit of luck with my chip. Have you already tried the settings supplied by twocables ? Perhaps it could help to raise vccio to 1,15V.

EDIT: Oh, pardon, I see, this is already at 1,2V


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14517231*
> Yes, it seems that I had a bit of luck with my chip. Have you already tried the settings supplied by twocables ? Perhaps it could help to raise vccio to 1,15V.
> 
> EDIT: Oh, pardon, I see, this is already at 1,2V


Yes I'm using TwoCables' template - he's been helping me try to sort this out. I've now upped VCCIO to 1.15000 which has brought my vcore down to 1.440 from 1.448, but I'm having to use a +0.070 offset :\


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14513048*
> +rep to both cables and turrican for all the support and the amount of work they put into this fantastic club


Thanks mate







Positive feedback from you is always appreciated very much









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOctane;14513942*
> With my first self-built rig I choose....
> 
> The Asus P8P67 PRO!


I'll add you to the list, also linking to your post with that picture









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14514960*
> Yes props to everyone who helped. This has to be the fastest and easiest build/OC I've ever attempted.


How is that GTX 260 SLI setup looking when powered by Sandy at 4.5GHz? Done some testing?









Some interesting info about Z68, Quoted below. Source.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tryceo;14518382*
> Here is something I have experienced. Z68 will require more voltage to become stable. On my P8P67 Deluxe, I could go 4.4GHz on 1.264v. On the P8Z68-V Pro, I needed 1.304v. I know this sounds weird, but I think it has something to do with the extra graphics processor in the CPU. I tried disabling it, and didn't install virtu and just used my GTX 570, but it still requires about 0.04v more to get stable.
> 
> The only reason I switched was because of the fact that I wanted to make sure the computer could sleep. The Z68 boards does this with a BIOS update, however the P8P67 doesn't (at least not for me). But I will probably switch back to the P8P67 Deluxe, since it will give me a better OC with less temps. Plus, the P8Z68 is only 12 phase vcore and 4 phase iGPU, while P8P67 is 16 phase vcore and 2 phase RAM. IMO, P8P67 is way better.


----------



## nicolasl46

Not overclocking related, but everytime I start my computer and boot into windows, my external HHDs auto play comes on. Its really annoying having to close that little window everytime my I turn on or restart my PC. If it makes a difference I'm using the USB 3.0 on the back.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;14520561*
> Not overclocking related, but everytime I start my computer and boot into windows, my external HHDs auto play comes on. Its really annoying having to close that little window everytime my I turn on or restart my PC. If it makes a difference I'm using the USB 3.0 on the back.


*How to Configure AutoPlay Settings in Windows 7*

Took me 1 second to find this on Google


----------



## gessay

How do I go about joining this club? I'm new to the site and had initial issues w/ my mobo, but it's back up and running and I'm starting the OC process.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


How do I go about joining this club? I'm new to the site and had initial issues w/ my mobo, but it's back up and running and I'm starting the OC process.


First you should add your system details here.

Other than that, you just state what mobo you have and that you wish to join the Club, and I'll add you


----------



## Smo

I've just been trying to stabilise my clock a little further. VCCIO is now set to 1.200v, LLC is at Extreme and offset is +0.075. I have managed to run turrican's custom Blend settings for 15 minutes but I'm not happy about the vcore - it peaked at 1.488v which is more than I'm comfortable with. Temps hit 74c maximum.

I'm assuming that the only thing I can do now is drop the offset voltage to +0.070, try the test again and basically keep going as low as I can until a worker fails?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


I've just been trying to stabilise my clock a little further. VCCIO is now set to 1.200v, LLC is at Extreme and offset is +0.075. I have managed to run turrican's custom Blend settings for 15 minutes but I'm not happy about the vcore - it peaked at 1.488v which is more than I'm comfortable with. Temps hit 74c maximum.

I'm assuming that the only thing I can do now is drop the offset voltage to +0.070, try the test again and basically keep going as low as I can until a worker fails?


Yeah, drop it until it fails.

Looks like you have a chip which is better suited for 4.7GHz or below. That's just the way it is. As I've said, these chips differ very much in how much Vcore they will need for a certain speed.

As I've also said, they are so fast that some people don't even bother to overclock them. Really, be happy with what you've got. A couple of hundred extra MHz will not give you any noticable difference









When playing Fallout 3, with lot's of mods, I had CPU-Z and Core Temp open on my seconadry LCD, and the Cores was barely loaded at all. In fact, CPU clocked down to 1600MHz all the time. These are so fast, that I've even heard people forcing them down to a constant 1600MHz and they didn't even notice any lower performance in games.


----------



## gessay

Ok specs are updated! will update them again once I am able to get a stable OC. I have the P8Z68-V Pro.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


Ok specs are updated! will update them again once I am able to get a stable OC. I have the P8Z68-V Pro.


Added. Welcome


----------



## Akehage

Anyone still have double posts all the time? And the windows-loggo freezing when starting? I get this error maybe 8 of 10 times. Dont really know why, waiting for new BIOS but seems that no one is coming. I have a stable OC regarding prime95-testings.
Have tryied the tips in the first page as well!


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akehage*


Anyone still have double posts all the time? And the windows-loggo freezing when starting? I get this error maybe 8 of 10 times. Dont really know why, waiting for new BIOS but seems that no one is coming. I have a stable OC regarding prime95-testings.
Have tryied the tips in the first page as well!


Turning off the Jmicron and Marvell controllers fixed the double boot for me. Yesterday I was getting the windows logo freezing at startup and it was due to a Driver issue. I had cleaned out my ATI drivers and for some reason windows didn't want to load the standard VGA drivers and was freezing at the logo screen like you stated.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


I've just been trying to stabilise my clock a little further. VCCIO is now set to 1.200v, LLC is at Extreme and offset is +0.075. I have managed to run turrican's custom Blend settings for 15 minutes but I'm not happy about the vcore - it peaked at 1.488v which is more than I'm comfortable with. Temps hit 74c maximum.

I'm assuming that the only thing I can do now is drop the offset voltage to +0.070, try the test again and basically keep going as low as I can until a worker fails?


I would reccommend running Ultra LLC because Extreme setting causes voltage spikes under load which is not a good thing. Drop the VCCIO back down to 1.125v and keep it there for now and slowly go up, it is safe to go *upto* 1.2v but doesn't mean that it's best to leave it there now lol.


----------



## turrican9

When regards to Windows boot-logo freezing I have found that at x50 + multipliers, it will boot Windows some times when Internal PLL Overvoltage is disabled. However, If I turn my system off and on again, I have to enable PLL overvoltage for it to boot Windows again. But for some reason, I can sometimes disable it again after a while.

When this occurs, my CPU also needs a tad higher Vcore then before, at least on 4.8GHz +. This I have now fixed by setting RAM to 1600 9-9-9-24-2t (stock) instead of 1600 8-8-8-24-1t. Now it will run at my usual Preset for 4.8GHz, no matter if I have turned system Off and ON again.

System will boot Windows up to x49 (At least x48. But I believe x49 also) with Internal PLL disabled. Even when this thing happen which require Internal PLL enabled at x50 and up.


----------



## Akehage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


Turning off the Jmicron and Marvell controllers fixed the double boot for me. Yesterday I was getting the windows logo freezing at startup and it was due to a Driver issue. I had cleaned out my ATI drivers and for some reason windows didn't want to load the standard VGA drivers and was freezing at the logo screen like you stated.


I have turned of the marvell, dont remember if the Jmicron is turned off. I was thinking that the freezes maybe is because I did install windows on the SSD when the HDD was also in the computer. Maybe some bootfiles have been placed wrong? will try to se when home if both Jmcron and marvell is disabled. 
any other solutions? Dont think it has something do do with the OC, but maybe some driver-issue.

Edit, just to be sure that we are talking about the same "double posts" The computer starts, then turn of itself and starts again. Not talking about the "extra bootscreens" that are appearing when having the controls enabled


----------



## Akehage

@ Turrican, I did not see your answer! I have x48 now, and have PLL enabled. Have the memory at stock (I think, maybe have them on 9.9.9.24.2, you think that setting them to 9.9.9.24.1 may solve it? 
Do you really think that I need higher voltage, already have 1.39v. And thats high enough. And no errors or BSOD when priming for 12+ hours.

And when windows logo is freezing I do a system restore and it works again. So dont really think it has something to do with the bios-setting?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akehage*


@ Turrican, I did not see your answer! I have x48 now, and have PLL enabled. Have the memory at stock (I think, maybe have them on 9.9.9.24.2, you think that setting them to 9.9.9.24.1 may solve it? 
Do you really think that I need higher voltage, already have 1.39v. And thats high enough. And no errors or BSOD when priming for 12+ hours.

And when windows logo is freezing I do a system restore and it works again. So dont really think it has something to do with the bios-setting?


Sounds like you have some other issues here. Tried a reinstall of Windows?


----------



## Akehage

Havent tryed that, dont want to install/unistall to much on the SSD. But have thoughts about doing a reinstall, maybe try to reformat both the SSD and the HDD, and unplug the HDD during windowsinstallation.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Yeah, drop it until it fails.

Looks like you have a chip which is better suited for 4.7GHz or below. That's just the way it is. As I've said, these chips differ very much in how much Vcore they will need for a certain speed.

As I've also said, they are so fast that some people don't even bother to overclock them. Really, be happy with what you've got. A couple of hundred extra MHz will not give you any noticable difference









When playing Fallout 3, with lot's of mods, I had CPU-Z and Core Temp open on my seconadry LCD, and the Cores was barely loaded at all. In fact, CPU clocked down to 1600MHz all the time. These are so fast, that I've even heard people forcing them down to a constant 1600MHz and they didn't even notice any lower performance in games.


You weren't kidding about the 4.7Ghz, my results are below









Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


I would reccommend running Ultra LLC because Extreme setting causes voltage spikes under load which is not a good thing. Drop the VCCIO back down to 1.125v and keep it there for now and slowly go up, it is safe to go *upto* 1.2v but doesn't mean that it's best to leave it there now lol.


Cheers for the advice bud - I dropped LLC to Ultra and my VCCIO is currently set at 1.500v.

Unfortunately my chip couldn't manage 4.8GHz at a voltage I considered acceptable... however, I have achieved a stable overclock at 4.7GHz which I'm very happy with!

It has currently survived 45 minutes of turricans extreme settings in the Prime95 Blend test at 1.432v which I am content with for 24/7 use.

Max temps are below, with my CPU fan speed locked at 75%;

Core 1 - 67c
Core 2 - 70c
Core 3 - 69c
Core 4 - 69c

Prime95 is still going and temps are sat at 64-66c across the board. I'd like to extend a big thanks to everyone who offered their advice and helped me get this far.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


You weren't kidding about the 4.7Ghz, my results are below









Cheers for the advice bud - I dropped LLC to Ultra and my VCCIO is currently set at 1.500v.

Unfortunately my chip couldn't manage 4.8GHz at a voltage I considered acceptable... however, I have achieved a stable overclock at 4.7GHz which I'm very happy with!

It has currently survived 45 minutes of turricans extreme settings in the Prime95 Blend test at 1.432v which I am content with for 24/7 use.

Max temps are below, with my CPU fan speed locked at 75%;

Core 1 - 67c
Core 2 - 70c
Core 3 - 69c
Core 4 - 69c

Prime95 is still going and temps are sat at 64-66c across the board. I'd like to extend a big thanks to everyone who offered their advice and helped me get this far.


Now you should do a 12 hours + Blend test, using the standard preset + 6000MB instead of 1600MB.

But before you do this, go see the Sandy Stable Club. Read the rules carefully, and make sure you're 12 hours + run is valid for submission there









Good luck


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*How to Configure AutoPlay Settings in Windows 7*

Took me 1 second to find this on Google










I do know how to configure auto play, and I don't want to change the way it works. My problem is that every time that I start my computer, it launches autoplay like if it is the first time I plug the drive into the USB port. If the drive is constantly plugged in, autoplay shouldn't come up. If you plug in a USB flash drive while the computer is on, its normal for autoplay to come up, but if the drive was there before turning on the computer, it shouldn't show up.


----------



## Break

Just playing about with my new i5/p8z68 for the first time.

After reading a couple of guides, I've done a very mild OC to 4Ghz







(don't really want or need more). The only thing I changed was multi to 40 and left vcore settings untouched.

With the 40 multi I get maximum temps: 56/59/58/59 and vcore of 1.248 to 1.256 (max).

Is everything okay here? Shall I just leave it as it is or is 1.256 a bit high for 4Ghz?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Break*


Just playing about with my new i5/p8z68 for the first time.

After reading a couple of guides, I've done a very mild OC to 4Ghz







(don't really want or need more). The only thing I changed was multi to 40 and left vcore settings untouched.

With the 40 multi I get maximum temps: 56/59/58/59 and vcore of 1.248 to 1.256 (max).

Is everything okay here? Shall I just leave it as it is or is 1.256 a bit high for 4Ghz?


you can probably go under 1.200v Vcore for only 4GHz. I don't see much point though.

Just enjoy it


----------



## Break

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


you can probably go under 1.200v Vcore for only 4GHz. I don't see much point though.

Just enjoy it










Okay, just to check though, say if I wanted it to stay at 1.200v, what would be the best option?

1. Cpu manual voltage @ 1.200v

2. Use the offset (would i use + or -? and how much? Don't fully understand this feature)

Thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Break*


Okay, just to check though, say if I wanted it to stay at 1.200v, what would be the best option?

1. Cpu manual voltage @ 1.200v

2. Use the offset (would i use + or -? and how much? Don't fully understand this feature)

Thanks


Best option would be to use Offset. You'd have to use - (minus) Offset to get below 1.200v Vcore. Try in the - (minus) 0.050 - 0.060 range.


----------



## GReid

Hello, Asus P8P67 Pro owner here, looking to join.
Thanks


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14511033*
> Lastly, even though I've set my memory to DDR3-1600MHz in the BIOS, CPU-Z is showing a DRAM frequency of 800MHz, did I do something wrong?


It's normal for DDR(double data rate) memory.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14508400*
> If you look at this test, the differences are so small that they could just aswell be only the margin of error











This is why i'm trying to OC my RAM to 1866MHz, but since i haven't come close to being stable ive given up on that temporarily.


----------



## jevon

Sending a few pics of my first build.

After a lot of fussing with the OC and disabling HT, it's stable at 47 x 100.0 with Offset +0.025. Vcore averages 1.392 and temps 68-70c at 100% load. I used multiple runs of Prime95 15-minute Blends at 1792 and 1333 with max DRAM, and also 10 runs of IBT at "Maximum" -- all with no errors. This is enough for me unless I start to see some instability.

I've run RailWorks2 (very cpu dependent) for hours @1920x1080 with all settings maxed and the system doesn't even breathe hard. Frames are off the chart. Temps stay around 40-43c. GPU never goes above 60c. My next tests will be with FSX once I finish hours reinstalling everything.

Of course I'm open to suggestions about other things to try. The few changes I made from TwoCables' template are in red.
Quote:


> Ai Tweaker
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: *47*
> Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
> Memory Frequency: *DDR3-1600MHz*
> DRAM Timing Control: *8-8-8-24-2T*
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: *130%*
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: *0.025V*
> DRAM Voltage: 1.5
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto


I'd like to thank you guys for all of the great information in this thread, and I'll be following it closely.

Can I also please be added to the membership list? Thanks a lot.


----------



## dlerch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14524409*
> Okay, just to check though, say if I wanted it to stay at 1.200v, what would be the best option?
> 
> 1. Cpu manual voltage @ 1.200v
> 
> 2. Use the offset (would i use + or -? and how much? Don't fully understand this feature)
> 
> Thanks


I would bump it to 4.5gHz with Hyper Threading enabled. Should be fairly easy to get it to there. I am pretty happy with my 4.5ghz OC, very fast and rock solid stable with decent temps too.


----------



## dlerch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jevon;14526370*
> Sending a few pics of my first build.
> 
> After a lot of fussing with the OC and disabling HT, it's stable at 47 x 100.0 with Offset +0.025. Vcore averages 1.392 and temps 68-70c at 100% load. I used multiple runs of Prime95 15-minute Blends at 1792 and 1333 with max DRAM, and also 10 runs of IBT at "Maximum" -- all with no errors. This is enough for me unless I start to see some instability.
> 
> I've run RailWorks2 (very cpu dependent) for hours @1920x1080 with all settings maxed and the system doesn't even breathe hard. Frames are off the chart. Temps stay around 40-43c. GPU never goes above 60c. My next tests will be with FSX once I finish hours reinstalling everything.
> 
> Of course I'm open to suggestions about other things to try. The few changes I made from TwoCables' template are in red.
> 
> I'd like to thank you guys for all of the great information in this thread, and I'll be following it closely.
> 
> Can I also please be added to the membership list? Thanks a lot.


Wouldn't a slightly lower clock of 4.5gHz with Hyper Threading enabled give you better performance? I dunno if I'm being bias or what, but I can multi task all day with 4 cores and 4 virtual running at 4.5. It took 5 minutes to set the uefi bios and tested solid. Seems like you would notice a better performance boost that way since the whole point of a 2600k is for HT. Otherwise you could have saved 100 bucks and just got a 2500k and run that at 4.7 with a sacrifice of smaller cache. Point being that, your .2gHz increase comes at a cost of disabling the coolest feature your cpu offers.

Just my two cents. You do have a very cool setup by the way, very clean and orderly. But I'd suggest you enabling HT and lowering your multi a few notches. I guarantee you that my rig at 4.5 with HT would out perform another at 4.7 without it. I tried it either or and I definitely gotta say Hyper threading is the SH**.


----------



## Break

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14528845*
> I would bump it to 4.5gHz with Hyper Threading enabled. Should be fairly easy to get it to there. I am pretty happy with my 4.5ghz OC, very fast and rock solid stable with decent temps too.


Yeh I tried that last night, this overclocking stuff is addictive









I just set the mult to 45 and observed what the bios did with voltage - at load it was at 1.304 - 1.320 (not bad I think) but after 40 mins of prime95 my temps were at 62/65/65/64 which are a little too hot for my liking. (btw can't enable ht as i have an i5)


----------



## Break

Every morning when I switch on my PC, I get that annoying CPU fan error. I noticed in windows my cpu fan idles at 450rpm, should I set it to 400 low limit in bios?

Would disabling the cpu fan thing have any negative effects on my computer?


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14529788*
> Every morning when I switch on my PC, I get that annoying CPU fan error. I noticed in windows my cpu fan idles at 450rpm, should I set it to 400 low limit in bios?
> 
> Would disabling the cpu fan thing have any negative effects on my computer?


Isn't the fan spinning at full rpm if Q-Fan is switched off?

Setting Low Limit should have no negative effects, just monitor temps after first boot in idle and under load.

I prefer to set a custom temp-rpm-curve in AI Suite


----------



## slimex

POST #3000









CONGRATULATIONS!!!


----------



## Break

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14529807*
> Isn't the fan spinning at full rpm if Q-Fan is switched off?
> 
> Setting Low Limit should have no negative effects, just monitor temps after first boot in idle and under load.
> 
> I prefer to set a custom temp-rpm-curve in AI Suite


Q-Fan is enabled, should I switch it off?


----------



## Colin_MC

Is it worth it to change from P67 Pro to Maximus Gene-Z? I don't need SLI/CF, and I'll sell Audigy 4 as there's some kind of X-Fi in this m-ATX board.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14529827*
> Q-Fan is enabled, should I switch it off?


If you switch it off, there will be no more fan speed regulation. You could put CPU Fan Speed Low Limit to ignore, but then there will be no warning if your fan is actually not spinning.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Colin_MC;14529931*
> Is it worth it to change from P67 Pro to Maximus Gene-Z? I don't need SLI/CF, and I'll sell Audigy 4 as there's some kind of X-Fi in this m-ATX board.


I would not change. The Sound Card on the GENE-Z is a normal Realtek sound chip with a nice X-Fi sticker. This is a Software driven solution to enable eax effects etc., but the audio quality is not better than with any common onboard sound chip.

If you need one of the Z68 features (SSD caching and lucid virtu igp virtualization) but do not care about the m-atx form factor I would rather buy a P8Z68 series board. If you need an m-atx board, the GENE-Z is not a wrong choice.


----------



## dlerch

Does anyone know of an extension for the usb 3.0 box that comes with the board? I want an extension because the cable on it i just two short for my case. It connects into the port correctly but there isn't enough header to run it behind the wall. Seeing as I spent almost 1000 on my system, it irks me that a near 10/10 cable managed build is being held back by a stupid 20 dollar front usb box.


----------



## TwoCables

The settings below only lasted 4 hours and 42 minutes in Prime95 Blend (failed 1792K):

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-29-1T
*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.14375V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto

A few weeks ago, these settings were rock-solid stable in Prime95's Blend test with the exception of the VCCIO being at 1.15625V. However, another difference is that I have Prime95's priority set to 7 (Prime95's default is 1). So either I really do need a VCCIO of 1.15625V, or maybe this is because I'm using 7 instead of 1. Whatever the case is, I am using 1.15625V now and I'll be starting a 12-hour test in a few hours. If it fails again, then I'll change Prime95's priority back to 1 and test again. Failing that, I don't know what I'll do because the VCCIO is the only other variable right now.

However, I'm still having fun.


----------



## Erper

@turrican

m8, add me up... system came today and just finished with instalation...


----------



## ZO6ssd

I have the P8Z68-V Pro MOBO, and am trying to connect my CoolerMaster Silent Pro M Power connector to the EATX 12v 8pin connector. The Power Supply provides two sets of double 4 pin connectors(female), but they won't reach the EATX 12v connector on the MOBO.
I don't see an extension that will fit...what do I use?


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZO6ssd;14532119*
> I have the P8Z68-V Pro MOBO, and am trying to connect my CoolerMaster Silent Pro M Power connector to the EATX 12v 8pin connector. The Power Supply provides two sets of double 4 pin connectors*(MALE)*, but they won't reach the EATX 12v connector on the MOBO.
> I don't see an extension that will fit...what do I use?


Are you trying to route the cable behind the motherboard?


----------



## ZO6ssd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;14532156*
> Are you trying to route the cable behind the motherboard?


Yes, straight line to EATX and the dual 4 pin PS will fit, but that doesn't seem correct. Behind MOBO and it won't reach, so need an extension?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZO6ssd;14532269*
> Yes, straight line to EATX and the dual 4 pin PS will fit, but that doesn't seem correct. Behind MOBO and it won't reach, so need an extension?


If you can buy from FrozenCPU, then I recommend this 12" extension cable:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7562/cab-114/12_8_Pin_EPS_Extension_Cable_-_8_Pin_to_44_Pin_CB-8M-8F.html?tl=g12c34s276&id=3wIdaHBu


----------



## nicolasl46

^ what twocables said is probably your best option. Now how are you routing the cable? Start behind the mobo tray, and then go through the hole behind the processor, and then over the motherboard and into the plug? Did you try flipping the PSU so the side that the cables come out is agaist the motherboard tray?


----------



## ZO6ssd

Ok TC, looks like that will work.

If I lift the MOBO looks like I could run it just beneath the MOBO..any problem with that?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZO6ssd*


Ok TC, looks like that will work.

If I lift the MOBO looks like I could run it just beneath the MOBO..any problem with that?


Do you think it would make it reach? I mean, is it worth the effort?


----------



## ZO6ssd

Ok....it reaches ok just laid it underneath...thanks all.


----------



## nicolasl46

Is not going to cause any problems, the cables are all insulated, so no worries. I'm glad it worked out for you.


----------



## Erper

ok guys... i think im having a problem managing bios...
idk is it problem with bios, and needs to be flashed for latest version...
but in bios, my mouse goes to left side of the screen and stays there...
even keyboard is acting weird... 
i tried even a wired keyboard and mouse and same thing...


----------



## jevon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlerch*


Wouldn't a slightly lower clock of 4.5gHz with Hyper Threading enabled give you better performance? I dunno if I'm being bias or what, but I can multi task all day with 4 cores and 4 virtual running at 4.5. 
<snip>
I guarantee you that my rig at 4.5 with HT would out perform another at 4.7 without it. I tried it either or and I definitely gotta say Hyper threading is the SH**.


Thanks, dlerch ...

My understanding is that most games do not benefit from HT and that you actually get more performance by disabling it. Or is this an urban myth?









Will I see better gaming performance with HT enabled? It's really about all I will ever do on this box.

Thanks.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


ok guys... i think im having a problem managing bios...
idk is it problem with bios, and needs to be flashed for latest version...
but in bios, my mouse goes to left side of the screen and stays there...
even keyboard is acting weird... 
i tried even a wired keyboard and mouse and same thing...


Are you using USB-2.0 for the mouse???
Because, USB-3.0 is for storage only


----------



## Erper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Are you using USB-2.0 for the mouse???
Because, USB-3.0 is for storage only










yep, using usb 2.0...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


yep, using usb 2.0...


So it's definitely connected to a USB 2.0 port for sure?


----------



## Erper

umm... yes


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


umm... yes


Sorry. I just had to be sure for myself that you didn't mean that you have a USB 2.0 mouse. After all, I'm not there in person so I have to ask dumb questions.


----------



## nawon72

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* XMP Profile #1

*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 46
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* 1600

*DRAM Timing Control:* 8-8-8-24-2T

*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.030V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5V

*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.11875V

*CPU PLL Voltage:* 1.71250

*PCH Voltage:* 1.05

*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Enabled

*CPU C6 Report:* Enabled
These settings failed P95 Custom blend(7168MB) after 7.9h. But it is an improvement from 1.05VCCIO which lasted 6.6h. So ill bump VCCIO up to 1.15 and see if it gives 12h+ stability. If it does, then ill drop it back to stock(1.05), and try 0.035V offset. Hopefully 0.035V offset also gives me 12h stability.

Do you think it is worth it to use and extra 0.1VCCIO in place 0f 0.005VCore at this multi? My load voltage is around 1.4V


----------



## turrican9

I will update the Club and celebrate the 3K posts... But right now I just have to get drunk and think over a few things..

See ya, good people..


----------



## Erper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Sorry. I just had to be sure for myself that you didn't mean that you have a USB 2.0 mouse. After all, I'm not there in person so I have to ask dumb questions.


 nah man, ur fine...
i found on internet that this mobo have a problem with wifi keyboard and mouse in bios...
its just mouse sticks to left side of the screen and thats it... in windows its fine
Problems


----------



## r3d33m3r

i got trouble deciding :/
i really want the z68, but it has no friggin PS/2 port... how am i gonna connect a future Filco Majestouch via PS/2 without adapters?

heck i've even try to go to Gigabyte or asrock z68 just to get that ps/2 port with the new z68.. btw i don't need ssd-caching, also virtue is of no interest to me


----------



## Erper

than go for pro or deluxe, but u will need to buy adapter...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r3d33m3r*


i got trouble deciding :/
i really want the z68, but it has no friggin PS/2 port... how am i gonna connect a future Filco Majestouch via PS/2 without adapters?

heck i've even try to go to Gigabyte or asrock z68 just to get that ps/2 port with the new z68.. btw i don't need ssd-caching, also virtue is of no interest to me


The P8Z68-M PRO has a PS/2 port.









However, if SSD Caching and Virtu are of no interest to you, then I highly recommend going with the P8P67 Pro.

I have a Majestouch working perfectly in the P8P67 EVO's PS/2 port.


----------



## Erper

i have few questions...
ive put my 3 hdds and front esata connection to light blue sata ports... 
would there be any difference in putting my os hdd into grey port..

how to turn on turbo boost in bios (if somehow i manage, i get cpu ration on 33)
do i have to do something about voltages

also, i switched tpu on... would that make any difference in Ocing...

thx


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


i have few questions...
ive put my 3 hdds and front esata connection to light blue sata ports... 
would there be any difference in putting my os hdd into grey port..


Only if you have a SATA III drive.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


how to turn on turbo boost in bios (if somehow i manage, i get cpu ration on 33)
do i have to do something about voltages

also, i switched tpu on... would that make any difference in Ocing...

thx


I don't have the time right now to answer anything but the question about the TPU switch: leave it disabled because it's more for automatic overclocking. I mean, you're on Overclock.net, so that switch is useless.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I will update the Club and celebrate the 3K posts... But right now I just have to get drunk and think over a few things..

See ya, good people..










Con gratz on 3k bud, well deserved. This club is the best P67 mobo club here on OCN.


----------



## nawon72

1.15VCCIO crashed on me during a game(BSOD 101), so im going to bump up Vcore to 0.035V and put VCCIO back to stock.


----------



## ionphoenix

i could find a way to disable the sleep mode..my monitor keeps sleeping after just a minute..then my cpu sleeps after 30 minutes i guess.. i already changed my power option but epic fail it still sleeps and turns off the monitor..it is irritating...


----------



## munaim1

***PLL VOLTAGE INFO***

I been recently testing something for the last few days and that is PLL voltage. In the first few instance I've find that lowering actually helps stability for some cpu's, now it seems that more and more are actually trying it and results have been great.

Just 2 hours ago I recommended fuloran1 who was having having stability issue's for last few days to try the following thing:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14537860*
> they are all on deafult I pressume?
> 
> What I want you to try is, decrease the PLL voltage to around 1.7/1.71v and test for stability and record what happens, then I want you to increase the PLL voltage to around 1.89v and again see what happens. The objective is to see whether or not your chip like high PLL or low PLL voltage, then we'll take it from there.


From having continous BSODS at the 7/8minute of the 1792 FFT he tried many things without success. He tried the above method and changed PLL voltage to 1.71v.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1;14538137*
> Ok, so now *I didnt get a bsod*, but a worker failed at 8 minutes. Raised pll to 1.89 and testing.


Progress!!!!! No bsod and worker failing can be an indication of near stability. Dropping the PLL certainly helped.

Here's another instance, Roksonixx kept failing the 1344 FTTs and then after trying the same thing:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roksonixx*
> it might just be pure luck but i've put my PLL voltage down to 1.7v and vcore down 4 notches and im 10 minutes into those bloody 1344 fft's ....
> 
> fingers crossed! if i can get this to work i'll update my "stable" score in your thread


After a few minutes:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roksonixx*
> i tried a few above 1.8 and down to 1.75, but i've just tried 1.7 and it's worked wonders...20 minutes into that damn test, with a nice low vcore now....
> 
> it's rather strange that a high voltage can throw things off, with vcore it doesnt matter if you're 0.01 or 0.1 above, it still works because it has "enough"
> 
> *i'd recommend putting 124 bsod's on your thread to "too much / to little PLL voltage", because that's certainly what's happened here*


Seems like PLL voltage does make a difference. *He could be right in saying error 124 could correspond to PLL voltage as apose to VTT (VCCIO) and vcore.* This is a good find.!!









I'll keep you guys posted on this


----------



## orlywutlol

I'll have to test out using a lower PLL votage. Does lower PLL = lower temps? My temps seem a bit high to me. I could be wrong though. 1.35v ish under load and under prime blend im in the 70-72c range but peaks at 75c on the hottest core.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*


I'll have to test out using a lower PLL votage. Does lower PLL = lower temps? My temps seem a bit high to me. I could be wrong though. 1.35v ish under load and under prime blend im in the 70-72c range but peaks at 75c on the hottest core.


could do, lower voltage = lower temps


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


could do, lower voltage = lower temps










Even if my VID @ 4.6ghz is 1.35v?


----------



## Break

Could anyone provide one of those 'Twocables templates' but for 4.4 - 4.5GHz?

I'm now at 4.5GHz after only changing the multiplier and nothing else. It seems stable so far, cpu-z sits at 1.312v and max temps after 2 hours of prime95 are 63/67/67/65.


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Break*


Could anyone provide one of those 'Twocables templates' but for 4.4 - 4.5GHz?

I'm now at 4.5GHz after only changing the multiplier and nothing else. It seems stable so far, cpu-z sits at 1.312v and max temps after 2 hours of prime95 are 63/67/67/65.


You can find this in one of the first posts of this thread, posted by turrican9.
Hmm, I think most of this settings are good for 4,4-4,5Ghz. You could lower offset voltage a bit, would try to start at 0.005V or 0.010V and go higher if it is not stable.
Another possibility is to raise VCCIO voltage, to get more stability without needing more vcore.

Looks like voltage is pretty ok for this frequency and temps are ok, too.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ionphoenix*


i could find a way to disable the sleep mode..my monitor keeps sleeping after just a minute..then my cpu sleeps after 30 minutes i guess.. i already changed my power option but epic fail it still sleeps and turns off the monitor..it is irritating...


Hey everyone: do you guys know the answer to this? It looks familiar to me, but I don't know the answer...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


***PLL VOLTAGE INFO***
I been recently testing something for the last few days and that is PLL voltage. In the first few instance I've find that lowering actually helps stability for some cpu's, now it seems that more and more are actually trying it and results have been great.

Just 2 hours ago I recommended fuloran1 who was having having stability issue's for last few days to try the following thing:

From having continous BSODS at the 7/8minute of the 1792 FFT he tried many things without success. He tried the above method and changed PLL voltage to 1.71v.

Progress!!!!! No bsod and worker failing can be an indication of near stability. Dropping the PLL certainly helped.

Here's another instance, Roksonixx kept failing the 1344 FTTs and then after trying the same thing:

After a few minutes:

Seems like PLL voltage does make a difference. * He could be right in saying error 124 could correspond to PLL voltage as apose to VTT (VCCIO) and vcore.* This is a good find.!!









I'll keep you guys posted on this










First, I have to satisfy my OCD: it's not "apose", but "opposed". The word "opposed" is a part of the word "opposite".









Anyway, this is incredibly weird timing. Just yesterday Ixel posted this thread:

*i7 2600K - Reasonable settings and temp?*

He's talking about lowering his CPU PLL Voltage down to 1.70V - 1.71V! I was going to mention this in here yesterday, but I wasn't entirely sure if it really applies yet. However, I guess it does!

So I think I'll be testing this soon.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Break*


Could anyone provide one of those 'Twocables templates' but for 4.4 - 4.5GHz?

I'm now at 4.5GHz after only changing the multiplier and nothing else. It seems stable so far, cpu-z sits at 1.312v and max temps after 2 hours of prime95 are 63/67/67/65.


Either way, for 4.4 to 4.5GHz, all that really needs to be changed is the multi and the core voltage.


----------



## jamor

Is this a great deal?

Corsair HX 650 + ASUS P8P67 = $219.38 - $20 Mail-in Rebate.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboD...t=Combo.705008


----------



## wonderlust

P8z68-V Pro owner, sign me up please!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Anyway, this is incredibly weird timing. Just yesterday Ixel posted this thread:

*i7 2600K - Reasonable settings and temp?*

He's talking about lowering his CPU PLL Voltage down to 1.70V - 1.71V! I was going to mention this in here yesterday, but I wasn't entirely sure if it really applies yet. However, I guess it does!

So I think I'll be testing this soon.


Wow didn't even see that thread, that's so wierd lol. I changed my pll right from the get go, forget where I read it but it worked very well for me, seems like its doing the same for others.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamor*


Is this a great deal?

Corsair HX 650 + ASUS P8P67 = $219.38 - $20 Mail-in Rebate.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboD...t=Combo.705008


Maybe. That's the P8P67 *LE* which I've never seen get recommended. Here's the comparison chart from the OP which might help to explain why it never gets anyone's recommendation:










The main problem I see is that it only has a 4+1 power design (I still don't know that means) which makes me think that the LE might not very good at overclocking.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


Wow didn't even see that thread, that's so wierd lol. I changed my pll right from the get go, forget where I read it but it worked very well for me, seems like its doing the same for others.


Yeah, it's almost like everyone is suddenly and simultaneously figuring this out!

Do you know if anyone is using a CPU PLL Voltage of 1.70 or 1.71 with a 4.8GHz overclock?


----------



## jamor

Good catch! Looks like my eyes aren't as good as I thought.

I couldn't figure out why it was so much cheaper but now that you pointed out LE with low VRM it totally makes sense.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamor*


Good catch! Looks like my eyes aren't as good as I thought.

I couldn't figure out why it was so much cheaper but now that you pointed out LE with low VRM it totally makes sense.


----------



## Break

Well 4 hours with prime 95 + 1 hour of crysis 2 is good enough stability for my 4.5GHz.









This thread was a great help even though in the end I only had to change ONE thing. Overclocking an i5 really is idiot proof.


----------



## TwoCables

I finally started testing with different CPU PLL Voltages by running Prime95 Custom @ 1344K with exactly 7GB of memory (7168MB). So far my results seem to be consistent with everyone's: 1.70V or 1.71V seems to be a sweet spot. However, I'm still having trouble getting 1344K to last more than 20 minutes; my goal is exactly 30.









After this, I'll test 48K because that seems to be a weak spot for me. I may even test 1792K as well just because it's another known weak spot.

Damn this is fun!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14545345*
> Well 4 hours with prime 95 + 1 hour of crysis 2 is good enough stability for my 4.5GHz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thread was a great help even though in the end I only had to change ONE thing. Overclocking an i5 really is idiot proof.


hehe


----------



## phantomgrave

P8P67 Vanilla owner here, I'd like to join.









Currently stress testing my 2500K @ 4.3Ghz with CPU-Z reporting 1.280V. I've been running P95 Blend test for about 25 minutes now with a 63C~ max temp on my of my cores (others are 56-58C.) Stable so far.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14544880*
> 
> Yeah, it's almost like everyone is suddenly and simultaneously figuring this out!
> 
> Do you know if anyone is using a CPU PLL Voltage of 1.70 or 1.71 with a 4.8GHz overclock?


There are quite a few with 4.8ghz overclocks in my stable club, however im in the process of getting everyone to post their bios sttings. Just recently created a new sheet for that. The club is doing quite well if I say so myself









I have one BIOS stting for a 4.7ghz overclock that uses 1.75PLL, cloudX, check it out, it should be under the BIOS templates section









*EDIT:*

There is over 20 submission around the 4.8ghz overclock, will take some time before I can gather the data.


----------



## Erper

so can anyone help me how to manage to go to bios with wireless keyboard and mouse...
i dont have wired keyboard, and when i plug wired mouse, and take out wireless set bios freezes


----------



## TwoCables

As I mentioned earlier, I had a goal of finally passing Prime95 Custom @ 1344K using 7168MB (exactly 7GB) of memory for 30 minutes. Well, after a bunch of trials and errors, I finally did it! I stopped my test at 33 minutes because I just couldn't wait any longer.









http://home.comcast.net/~twocables/33Minutes%21.png (1680 x 1050)

I'm sorry for forgetting to include my name in Notepad, but I was a little bit too excited. So, let's just go by the date and time on the Taskbar for now.









Anyway, what allowed me to do this was dropping my CPU PLL Voltage all the way down to 1.70000V which seems to run at 1.693V - 1.696V (that is, after testing several different CPU PLL Voltages).

Therefore, I think I'm going to submit these settings as rock-solid stable for my system:

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-29-1T
*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* 1.70000V
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14547689*
> Anyway, what allowed me to do this was dropping my CPU PLL Voltage all the way down to 1.70000V which seems to run at 1.693V - 1.696V (that is, after testing several different CPU PLL Voltages)












Bloody awesome!!! PLL voltage defintely makes a difference! This is an brilliant find









Mind if I quote your success in my pLL voltage info?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14547771*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bloody awesome!!! PLL voltage defintely makes a difference! This is an brilliant find
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind if I quote your success in my pLL voltage info?


Not yet!

I just reviewed my Results.txt file, and I just realized that I really *do* still have to test 1792K. It's hard to explain how I know, but I can just tell (it's very clear to me).

So, back to the drawing board.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14547896*
> Not yet!
> 
> I just reviewed my Results.txt file, and I just realized that I really *do* still have to test 1792K. It's hard to explain how I know, but I can just tell (it's very clear to me).
> 
> So, back to the drawing board.


woops, too late got excited and quoted it anyway







well if it did help with 1344 then it must do the same for 1792, I mean you said it, you've tested all the other PLL voltages and it didn't help but as soon as you tried 1.7v you got results and that's what it's all about. Slow but sure progression


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14547958*
> woops, too late got excited and quoted it anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well if it did help with 1344 then it must do the same for 1792, I mean you said it, you've tested all the other PLL voltages and it didn't help but as soon as you tried 1.7v you got results and that's what it's all about. Slow but sure progression


Aw, thank you for quoting me.









I had a feeling that this was the case. Although, I will test 1792K anyway just so there's no question. My goal is 30 minutes again (like before, I will have it set to run each FFT size for 15 minutes).


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14548027*
> Aw, thank you for quoting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a feeling that this was the case. Although, I will test 1792K anyway just so there's no question. My goal is 30 minutes again (like before, I will have it set to run each FFT size for 15 minutes).












I hope it works just the same as the 1344 did. Good luck







+rep for the PLL confirmation.


----------



## TwoCables

It didn't. It failed after 8 minutes.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14548168*
> It didn't. It failed after 8 minutes.


Bugger!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14548168*
> It didn't. It failed after 8 minutes.












try increasing the PLL voltage to 1.72v and see if that makes a difference, then try increasing the vcore a notch.


----------



## Smo

This PLL voltage is very interesting - so far by dropping it to 1.700v I've managed to decrease the vcore on my overclock (i5 2500k @ 4.7GHz) from 1.432 to 1.416v. I need to test it further but I can't really be bothered just now, I feel a quick gaming session coming before bed!


----------



## TwoCables

I did it! After that 8-minute failure, I went straight to a CPU PLL of 1.68750V, but it failed after 4 minutes. So then I went straight to *1.70625V* and it passed twice (30 minutes)!! Oh happy day!










I added Task Manager at the last second (as soon as I was happy with my results) in order to show that I really am practically using all of my memory. Unfortunately, I forgot that I had my name sitting in a Notepad document! So it's sitting right behind Task Manager in this screenshot. lol







Oh well.

Anyway, I think I'm done messing around now. Time to start overclocking my GTX 580!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14548841*
> I did it! After that 8-minute failure, I went straight to a CPU PLL of 1.68750V, but it failed after 4 minutes. So then I went straight to *1.70625V* and it passed twice (30 minutes)!! Oh happy day!


you sir awesome!!!! quote again??? lol thanks for all the hard work, this does take a little getting use, having to tweak the pll voltage for both 1344 and 1792, but you have proved that a small increase from 1.7v which was stable for 1344 became stable for 1792 aswell. PLL is key!


----------



## Smo

Well done for getting there in the end mate. I wish my chip would hit 4.8GHz @ 1.392v!

(Although to be honest, I don't really know what I'm doing







)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14548877*
> you sir awesome!!!! quote again??? lol thanks for all the hard work, this does take a little getting use, having to tweak the pll voltage for both 1344 and 1792, but you have proved that a small increase from 1.7v which was stable for 1344 became stable for 1792 aswell. PLL is key!


Thank you!!









I admit that I was shocked to find that all I really had to do was go from 1.70000V to 1.70625V. Although, this is one of three CPU PLL voltages in this range I *didn't* try when I was testing 1344K. I mean when I was testing 1344K, I also didn't try 1.71250V or 1.71875V. Instead, I tried 1.72500V, 1.73125V, 1.7375V, and finally 1.74375V! lol Geez.









So yeah, I'm definitely sticking with 1.70625V now! Wow!

Maybe I should start decreasing my VCCIO because it's currently at 1.15625V. Although, I'm not quite ready for that yet because I don't want to be my own buzzkill.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14548945*
> Well done for getting there in the end mate. I wish my chip would hit 4.8GHz @ 1.392v!
> 
> (Although to be honest, I don't really know what I'm doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thank you!!

What settings are you using as compared to these below? I mean, what settings of yours are different?

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-29-1T
*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* 1.70625V
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14549059*
> Thank you!!
> 
> What settings are you using as compared to these below? I mean, what settings of yours are different?


These are my settings;
Quote:


> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
> *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> *By All Cores:* *47*
> *Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
> *Memory Frequency:* *DDR3-1600MHz*
> *DRAM Timing Control:* *8-8-8-24-Auto*
> *EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
> *Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
> *Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Phase Control:* Extreme
> *Duty Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 140%
> *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> *CPU Offset Voltage:* *0.060V*
> *DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V
> *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> *VCCIO Voltage:* *1.1500V*
> *CPU PLL Voltage:* *1.7250V*
> *PCH Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
> *Active Processor Cores:* All
> *Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
> *Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
> *Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *CPU C1E:* Enabled
> *CPU C3 Report:* Auto
> *CPU C6 Report:* Auto


Which gives me;


----------



## TwoCables

Is 1792K the only one your system can't pass right now?

The reason why I drilled 1344K and 1792K is because they were the only two FFTs my system couldn't pass. However, I will still reluctantly attempt a 12-hour test with Prime95 Custom; I'll set it up to match Blend except I'll use 7168MB of memory. So I'll just click Custom and then change the amount of memory and go for it. If it passes all 12 hours or more (hopefully more, of course), then I'll know it's rock-solid stable (I am expecting it to fail hard). If it fails, then I'll drill whichever FFT failed.

(by the way, that's a beautiful wallpaper - I love how you have everything matching)


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14549480*
> Is 1792K the only one your system can't pass right now?
> 
> The reason why I drilled 1344K and 1792K is because they were the only 2 my system couldn't pass. However, I will still reluctantly attempt a 12-hour test with Prime95 Custom; I'll set it up to match Blend except I'll use 7168MB of memory. So I'll just click Custom and then change the amount of memory and go for it. If it passes all 12 hours or more (hopefully more, of course), then I'll know it's rock-solid stable (I am expecting it to fail hard). If it fails, then I'll drill whichever FFT failed.
> 
> (by the way, that's a beautiful wallpaper - I love how you have everything matching)


turrican9 said to me that using custom settings of;

Min FFT: 1792KB
Max FFT: 1792KB
Memory to Use: 6000MB

Was an extremely hard test to pass, and that if I managed to pass that at half an hour, my chip was very likely stable, and that I should then attempt a regular blend for ~12 hours. However I've tinkered since then in an attempt to pass the hardest test at ~30mins at 4.8GHz, but haven't managed it just yet. So I haven't tried a regular 12 hour pass.

I haven't tried any other tests.

Thanks for the desktop comment, I'm extremely anal about how my PC should be


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14549544*
> turrican9 said to me that using custom settings of;
> 
> Min FFT: 1792KB
> Max FFT: 1792KB
> Memory to Use: 6000MB
> 
> Was an extremely hard test to pass, and that if I managed to pass that at half an hour, my chip was very likely stable, and that I should then attempt a regular blend for ~12 hours. However I've tinkered since then in an attempt to pass the hardest test at ~30mins at 4.8GHz, but haven't managed it just yet. So I haven't tried a regular 12 hour pass.
> 
> I haven't tried any other tests.
> 
> Thanks for the desktop comment, I'm extremely anal about how my PC should be


hehe I can tell.







I like it!

Anyway, if I were to base my advice on my experience today, then I would have to recommend 1344K in addition to 1792K. However, I also see that you have 8GB memory, so why not use 7168MB?







7168 is exactly 7GB.

Anyway, have you ever tried a lower CPU Offset Voltage? If so, then what have you tried and what happens?


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14549599*
> hehe I can tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it!
> 
> Anyway, if I were to base my advice on my experience today, then I would have to recommend 1344K in addition to 1792K. However, I also see that you have 8GB memory, so why not use 7168MB?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7168 is exactly 7GB.
> 
> Anyway, have you ever tried a lower CPU Offset Voltage? If so, then what have you tried and what happens?


We have the exact same memory!

I'll give 1344k a try tomorrow after work (I really must go to bed, it's midnight and I have work in the morning) so thanks for that, I suppose it can't hurt!

Previously all the lower offsets have resulted in a worker failing, but in order to leave my offset alone I tinkered with the VCCIO and PLL instead to get where I am now. I suppose I can drop my offset by 0.005v and see what happens.

If a worker fails once I've done that, would the next logical step be to increase the VCCIO slightly? Say from 1.15000v to 1.15625v, and then try the blend again?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14549646*
> We have the exact same memory!
> 
> I'll give 1344k a try tomorrow after work (I really must go to bed, it's midnight and I have work in the morning) so thanks for that, I suppose it can't hurt!
> 
> Previously all the lower offsets have resulted in a worker failing, but in order to leave my offset alone I tinkered with the VCCIO and PLL instead to get where I am now. I suppose I can drop my offset by 0.005v and see what happens.
> 
> If a worker fails once I've done that, would the next logical step be to increase the VCCIO slightly? Say from 1.15000v to 1.15625v, and then try the blend again?


I don't know. My experience today leads me to believe that the CPU PLL voltage would need to be lowered just another strap or 2 from 1.72500V to 1.71875 or 1.71250V. Or perhaps even 1.70000V.


----------



## Micma

Please add me to the list!

I'm a proud new owner of an Asus P8Z68 deluxe motherboard.

Thanks
Micma


----------



## Blackbass

Add me, I have the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe. Love the board. I have it running at 4430MHz with no problems.


----------



## gessay

So i've been trying to get my system stable (for the sandy bridge stable club) @ 4.6 ghz over the past few days. The first few times I ran Prime it would 124BSOD and I increased the cpu manual voltage. At 1.325v Prime ran for 2 hours and then 124bsod. I increased voltage to 1.335v and it ran for 10 hours and again 124bsod. Prime95 log shows no failures. I'm wondering if it has something to do w/ the PLL or VCCIO instead of CPU voltage. throughout all the testing PLL was set to 1.75v and VCCIO at 1.175? any input would be appreciated. Should I keep upping the vcore or try something else?

the rest of my settings are as follows:

Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 46
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: DDR3-1333MHz
DRAM Timing Control: 8-8-8-24-2T
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Disabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Manual Mode
CPU Manual Voltage: 1.335V
DRAM Voltage: 1.5000V
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: 1.1750V
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.750V
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled

Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Disabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Disabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Enabled

__________________


----------



## jevon

Running Prime95 1792 and 1344 15-minute tests as I lower the Offset value. I've had a very solid 47x100.0 @Offset 0.015, but want to see how low I can go. I'm down to 1.3711 VID and Offset 0.010. I have HT disabled.

I'm noticing that Worker #4 seems to finish the tests almost 1 minute later than the other 3, and sometimes completes 1 less test during the run than the other 3. Could this be due to the CPU not getting enough power? Or is this within normal performance?

I have very little experience with Prime95, and it's probably a dumb question, but thought I toss it out.

Thanks.

Edit:
NM. Found the answer:

"Yes, it is normal. Windows decides what runs on what threads, and it can vary. Anything else running on a thread costs that thread CPU cycles, slowing down that worker just a tiny bit, and it adds up over time. The only thing that matters is if there is an error or the worker stops working."


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

Whats the opinion on LLC settings? I'm running on extreme, but I think I might back it down. What is everyone else running on? I backed it down to 4.6, but shooting for 4.8 again, with the newfound PLL lowering knowledge.


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Whats the opinion on LLC settings? I'm running on extreme, but I think I might back it down. What is everyone else running on? I backed it down to 4.6, but shooting for 4.8 again, with the newfound PLL lowering knowledge.


I believe I read somewhere on here not to put that on Extreme just leave it on Ultra High.


----------



## Cosmic Collision

is there a way to manually set cpu fan speed in the bios? all i'm seeing are the different profiles.

i noticed today that one of my fans makes a whirring noise every few seconds on the lower fan speeds when i boot up. my temporary fix is to run prime for a while then turn it off which seems to do the trick.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


So i've been trying to get my system stable (for the sandy bridge stable club) @ 4.6 ghz over the past few days. The first few times I ran Prime it would 124BSOD and I increased the cpu manual voltage. At 1.325v Prime ran for 2 hours and then 124bsod. I increased voltage to 1.335v and it ran for 10 hours and again 124bsod. Prime95 log shows no failures. I'm wondering if it has something to do w/ the PLL or VCCIO instead of CPU voltage. throughout all the testing PLL was set to 1.75v and VCCIO at 1.175? any input would be appreciated. Should I keep upping the vcore or try something else?


To be honest, I think a VCCIO of 1.175V is way more than is needed for your system because you only have 1333MHz memory.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


the rest of my settings are as follows:

Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 46
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: DDR3-1333MHz
DRAM Timing Control: 8-8-8-24-2T
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Disabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Manual Mode
CPU Manual Voltage: 1.335V
DRAM Voltage: 1.5000V
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: 1.1750V
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.750V
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled

Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Disabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Disabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Enabled

__________________


I strongly recommend enabling Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology, CPU Spread Spectrum, and C1E. With Sandy Bridge, the only time it makes sense to disable these is when you begin adjusting the BCLK. Otherwise, disabling them actually doesn't provide any benefits at all.

I also recommend setting C6 to Auto.









Regarding the VCCIO Voltage: I recommend leaving it on Auto for now since the overclock is small. However, I recommend playing with the CPU PLL Voltage because I thought it was pretty fun.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *jevon*


Running Prime95 1792 and 1344 15-minute tests as I lower the Offset value. I've had a very solid 47x100.0 @Offset 0.015, but want to see how low I can go. I'm down to 1.3711 VID and Offset 0.010. I have HT disabled.

I'm noticing that Worker #4 seems to finish the tests almost 1 minute later than the other 3, and sometimes completes 1 less test during the run than the other 3. Could this be due to the CPU not getting enough power? Or is this within normal performance?

I have very little experience with Prime95, and it's probably a dumb question, but thought I toss it out.

Thanks.

Edit:
NM. Found the answer:

"Yes, it is normal. Windows decides what runs on what threads, and it can vary. Anything else running on a thread costs that thread CPU cycles, slowing down that worker just a tiny bit, and it adds up over time. The only thing that matters is if there is an error or the worker stops working."


I concur. While I was playing with my CPU PLL Voltage today and drilling the 1344K and 1792K FFTs, I saw Worker #4 complete faster at first for the very first time, and I also saw it perform 1 less test than the other 3.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


Whats the opinion on LLC settings? I'm running on extreme, but I think I might back it down. What is everyone else running on? I backed it down to 4.6, but shooting for 4.8 again, with the newfound PLL lowering knowledge.


I think everyone is using Ultra High. Some people are experimenting, but Ultra High is the recommended setting because it does the best job at reducing vDroop the most. Extreme just causes vRise...


----------



## Erper

why is this mobo so buggy???
since i cant run settings from bio i tried from ai suite...
ive manage to put up to max performance and with some tunning... but when i open flash program on internet, i get warning that vcore is going up to 1.54v...
i had to restart, go to bios, somehow manage to press f5 for default and get back safely to windows...


----------



## TwoCables

If it's going up to 1.54V, then your voltage is on Auto.

However, I recommend not using Ai Suite II because your settings are only applied when Windows automatically launches Ai Suite II during startup. That means your settings are not actually saved in the UEFI (or rather, they're not saved to CMOS).

To see what I mean, make any change in Ai Suite II (like a voltage or something), apply it, reboot into the UEFI and then see if that setting was applied.


----------



## Erper

as i said, i would like to play with bios but cant since this bios doesnt like wireless keyboard and mouse... common problem... and idk how long would it pass until they sort this problem


----------



## Colin_MC

Please add me to the club. I own P8P67 Pro. 
2500K @ 5GHz with 1.42V, Prime and Linx Stable.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

TwoCables do you ever sleep?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*


TwoCables do you ever sleep?










I don't think so. I mean, I don't see anything about it in Event Viewer!


----------



## Boyboyd

What actually happens when the old b2 chipset problems kick in? I havent replaced mine yet and I think I'm starting to see symptoms.


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14555544*
> as i said, i would like to play with bios but cant since this bios doesnt like wireless keyboard and mouse... common problem... and idk how long would it pass until they sort this problem


Go to bestbuy and buy a wired keyboard and mouse. you have 30 days to return them for a full refund even if they are opened


----------



## gessay

I changed everything TwoCables had recommended. 11 and a half hours in and I got an error in prime95. no bsod tho. I'm getting closer. does this mean I should up the PLLv slightly?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14555544*
> as i said, i would like to play with bios but cant since this bios doesnt like wireless keyboard and mouse... common problem... and idk how long would it pass until they sort this problem


buy the cheapest corded kb and mouse and keep it for troubleshooting. always a good idea to have a back up


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14556019*
> I don't think so. I mean, I don't see anything about it in Event Viewer!


That's why he's called TwoCables. Once the first one runs out of energy, he just changes to the other one.


----------



## Break

Do you guys all use cpu-z for monitoring max vcore?

I downloaded HWmonitor and its reports slightly different voltages than cpu-z does


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14559442*
> Do you guys all use cpu-z for monitoring max vcore?
> 
> I downloaded HWmonitor and its reports slightly different voltages than cpu-z does


cpuz, hwmonitor...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gessay;14558125*
> I changed everything TwoCables had recommended. 11 and a half hours in and I got an error in prime95. no bsod tho. I'm getting closer. does this mean I should up the PLLv slightly?










Wow!

What is your CPU PLL Voltage right now?

Also, which FFT failed? Check the Results.txt file if you're not sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14559390*
> That's why he's called TwoCables. Once the first one runs out of energy, he just changes to the other one.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14559442*
> Do you guys all use cpu-z for monitoring max vcore?
> 
> I downloaded HWmonitor and its reports slightly different voltages than cpu-z does


Both CPU-Z and HWMonitor are identical except HWMonitor only shows two decimal places while CPU-Z shows 3. So for that reason, they will sometimes seem to be showing slightly different readings.

Both of these programs were created by the same developer.









So, I recommend sticking with CPU-Z.

(*edit:* although, I have noticed HWMonitor showing more than just _slightly_ different readings which leads me to believe that CPU-Z is somehow more accurate)


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14559933*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow!
> 
> What is your CPU PLL Voltage right now?
> 
> Also, which FFT failed? Check the Results.txt file if you're not sure.


I put it at what you told me to 1.7v. I'm gonna try another test tonight when i'm out of work, so any input would be helpful. I'm soo close to being at the 12hours stable mark. I'll have to check later as to which FFT failed.


----------



## Break

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14559933*
> Both CPU-Z and HWMonitor are identical except HWMonitor only shows two decimal places while CPU-Z shows 3. So for that reason, they will sometimes seem to be showing slightly different readings.
> 
> Both of these programs were created by the same developer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I recommend sticking with CPU-Z.
> 
> (*edit:* although, I have noticed HWMonitor showing more than just _slightly_ different readings which leads me to believe that CPU-Z is somehow more accurate)


Ok









During prime95, HWmonitor reported a voltage (spike?) of 1.36v but cpu-z was holding steady at 1.312v which I found strange hence my previous question. I've since changed the offset from 'auto' to +0.030 so hopefully this will prevent any further voltage spikes.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gessay;14560027*
> I put it at what you told me to 1.7v. I'm gonna try another test tonight when i'm out of work, so any input would be helpful. I'm soo close to being at the 12hours stable mark. I'll have to check later as to which FFT failed.


Aw man, I just looked at my old Results.txt files, and it looks like yours probably failed either the 40K FFT, the 1280K FFT, or the 56K FFT. I was hoping it was going to be either the 1792K FFT or the 1344K FFT, but those occur about 3 and 4 hours into the test (respectively). I mean, I didn't really know that until now.









Anyway, I recommend either increasing the core voltage a little, or increasing the CPU PLL Voltage to 1.70625V. However, only do one or the other because if you do both at the same time and it ends up easily exceeding 12 hours, then we won't know which adjustment did the trick. So just flip a coin and tweak.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14560127*
> Ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> During prime95, HWmonitor reported a voltage (spike?) of 1.36v but cpu-z was holding steady at 1.312v which I found strange hence my previous question. I've since changed the offset from 'auto' to +0.030 so hopefully this will prevent any further voltage spikes.


Oh cool. It should never be on Auto anyway.


----------



## dlerch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14555544*
> as i said, i would like to play with bios but cant since this bios doesnt like wireless keyboard and mouse... common problem... and idk how long would it pass until they sort this problem


I would just use a p2 keyboard to tweak your bios if you have one. If not, they are 10 bucks at any store really. i would not advise to do a softclock. it is never as stable and your OS doesn't enjoy changes made post bios.

I had the same issue with the wireless mouse/keyboard. Popped my p2 one and unplugged the wireless just for my bios tweak. Followed the instructions and got a solid OC first attempt.


----------



## TwoCables

PS/2, not p2.


----------



## turrican9

Added the following persons, by request, to the Club: *GReid, Erper, wonderlust, phantomgrave, Micma, Blackbass, Colin_MC* Welcome !









*Erper* You have the P8P67 PRO, right? Your system details confused me a little bit, but I seem to remember you bought the PRO

TwoCables: Great find on the PLL Voltage !


----------



## nezzarix

I was messing around with my Vcore Phase control and was actually able to lower my 4.6Ghz voltage to 1.288v by changing it from Extreme to Manual - Ultra Fast.

How does Ultra Fast compare to Extreme? Is it better/worse for the CPU/Motherboard? I've tried searching online but didn't find much about ultra fast.


----------



## Break

Twocables, after I set the manual offset I compared hwmonitor to cpu-z again and got this (prime95 running in background):










My cpu-z _never_ goes above 1.296 yet I got a random 1.33 from somewhere according to hwmon. Anything to be concerned about?

Oh, and could I be added to the club too please, turrican?


----------



## nezzarix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14561339*
> Twocables, after I set the manual offset I compared hwmonitor to cpu-z again and got this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cpu-z _never_ goes above 1.296 yet I got a random 1.33 from somewhere according to hwmon. Anything to be concerned about?
> 
> Oh, and could I be added to the club too please, turrican?


Those spikes happen under extremely high load. Prime95 doesn't really push the processor as far as people think. If you run Intel Burn Test then you should see the voltage spike to handle the extra stress. Nothing to worry about. Also, keep in mind that a 1.326 spike registers as 1.33v in hwmon.


----------



## Break

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezzarix;14561363*
> Those spikes happen under extremely load. Prime95 doesn't really push the processor as far as people think. If you run Intel Burn Test then you should see the voltage spike to handle the extra stress. Nothing to worry about. Also, keep in mind that a 1.326 spike registers as 1.33v in hwmon.


Ok thanks, I'll give intel burn test a go and see what happens.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14556100*
> What actually happens when the old b2 chipset problems kick in? I havent replaced mine yet and I think I'm starting to see symptoms.


Nobody? Because sometimes my raid array and my games SSD will randomly disconnect. Never happens to my media disk or the OS SSD which is on the supposedly unaffected SATA3 controller.


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14559933*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow!
> 
> What is your CPU PLL Voltage right now?
> 
> Also, which FFT failed? Check the Results.txt file if you're not sure.


--
Self-test 768K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 11:57:48 2011]
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.484208107, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Self-test 12K passed!
--

I'm almost positive it was the 12K that failed. I think all threads had finished w/ the 768K and moved on and then it failed. I'm gonna move the PLLv up a bit and do another test overnight


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gessay;14564755*
> --
> Self-test 768K passed!
> [Fri Aug 12 11:57:48 2011]
> FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.484208107, expected less than 0.4
> Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
> Self-test 12K passed!
> --
> 
> I'm almost positive it was the 12K that failed. I think all threads had finished w/ the 768K and moved on and then it failed. I'm gonna move the PLLv up a bit and do another test overnight


You're right that it's the 12K that failed. I can tell because it's underneath the error, so that tells me that there are only 3 lines "Self-test 12K passed!", and 4 lines of "Self-test 768K passed!" above it.









I have a ridiculously busy day tomorrow so I won't be here at all until like 24 hours from now.


----------



## nawon72

I've never had a worker fail or an error in P95(as far as i know), only BSODs. Is this normal? Today i looked at the results.txt for the first time and this is what i got:


Spoiler: results.txt



[Fri Aug 12 02:53:08 2011]
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 03:08:22 2011]
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 03:23:42 2011]
Self-test 720K passed!
Self-test 720K passed!
Self-test 720K passed!
Self-test 720K passed!
Self-test 720K passed!
Self-test 720K passed!
Self-test 720K passed!
Self-test 720K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 03:38:51 2011]
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 03:54:42 2011]
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 04:09:58 2011]
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 04:25:43 2011]
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 04:41:16 2011]
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 04:56:29 2011]
Self-test 1120K passed!
Self-test 1120K passed!
Self-test 1120K passed!
Self-test 1120K passed!
Self-test 1120K passed!
Self-test 1120K passed!
Self-test 1120K passed!
Self-test 1120K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 05:12:21 2011]
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 05:27:54 2011]
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 05:44:04 2011]
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 06:00:08 2011]
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 06:16:10 2011]
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 06:31:21 2011]
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 06:47:26 2011]
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 07:02:47 2011]
Self-test 1680K passed!
Self-test 1680K passed!
Self-test 1680K passed!
Self-test 1680K passed!
Self-test 1680K passed!
Self-test 1680K passed!
Self-test 1680K passed!
Self-test 1680K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 07:18:22 2011]
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 07:33:22 2011]
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 07:48:36 2011]
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 08:04:04 2011]
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 08:19:33 2011]
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 08:35:38 2011]
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 08:51:53 2011]
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 09:07:41 2011]
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 09:23:46 2011]
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 09:40:01 2011]
Self-test 2800K passed!
Self-test 2800K passed!
Self-test 2800K passed!
Self-test 2800K passed!
Self-test 2800K passed!
Self-test 2800K passed!
Self-test 2800K passed!
Self-test 2800K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 09:55:20 2011]
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 10:10:46 2011]
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 10:26:38 2011]
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 10:42:30 2011]
Self-test 3360K passed!
Self-test 3360K passed!
Self-test 3360K passed!
Self-test 3360K passed!
Self-test 3360K passed!
Self-test 3360K passed!
Self-test 3360K passed!
Self-test 3360K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 10:58:24 2011]
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 11:13:25 2011]
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 11:29:19 2011]
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 11:45:22 2011]
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 12:01:25 2011]
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 12:17:44 2011]
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 12:33:15 2011]
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 12:48:48 2011]
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 13:04:28 2011]
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 13:20:44 2011]
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 13:36:05 2011]
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 13:51:48 2011]
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 14:06:51 2011]
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 14:22:15 2011]
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 14:27:16 2011]
Self-test 40K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 14:37:59 2011]
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 14:43:09 2011]
Self-test 1280K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 14:53:00 2011]
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 14:58:09 2011]
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 15:08:21 2011]
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 15:14:00 2011]
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 15:24:00 2011]
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 15:29:37 2011]
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 15:39:11 2011]
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 15:45:04 2011]
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 15:55:03 2011]
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 16:00:53 2011]
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 16:10:19 2011]
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 16:16:14 2011]
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 16:26:23 2011]
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 16:32:25 2011]
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 16:41:24 2011]
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 16:47:41 2011]
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 16:57:24 2011]
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 17:03:41 2011]
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 17:13:41 2011]
Self-test 2240K passed!
Self-test 2240K passed!
Self-test 2240K passed!
Self-test 2240K passed!
Self-test 2240K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 17:19:54 2011]
Self-test 2240K passed!
Self-test 2240K passed!
Self-test 2240K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 17:30:12 2011]
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 17:35:17 2011]
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 17:45:19 2011]
Self-test 2400K passed!
Self-test 2400K passed!
Self-test 2400K passed!
Self-test 2400K passed!
Self-test 2400K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 17:50:25 2011]
Self-test 2400K passed!
Self-test 2400K passed!
Self-test 2400K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 18:00:20 2011]
Self-test 240K passed!
Self-test 240K passed!
Self-test 240K passed!
Self-test 240K passed!
Self-test 240K passed!
[Fri Aug 12 18:05:47 2011]
Self-test 240K passed!
Self-test 240K passed!
Self-test 240K passed!


So does this mean it failed on 240K?


----------



## TwoCables

Oh, because that's where it got cut off?

*Edit:* Whoa. It gives you a BSOD after about 15 hours. That kinda makes me want to see if I can somehow shoot for a 24-hour test. lol


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14565593*
> Oh, because that's where it got cut off?
> 
> *Edit:* Whoa. It gives you a BSOD after about 15 hours. That kinda makes me want to see if I can somehow shoot for a 24-hour test. lol


It got cut off at 240k, and Realtemp shows that i BSOD at 18:07. So im assuming it failed 240k.

I forgot to mentioned I got BSOD 124, so it may be related to PLL. Ill test this tonight for 24h since i won't be home till late tomorrow. Here are the settings is used in my recent 15.45h test:


Spoiler: 4.6GHz OC settings



*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* XMP Profile #1

*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 46
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* 1600

*DRAM Timing Control:* 8-8-8-24-2T

*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.035V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5V

*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.05V

*CPU PLL Voltage:* 1.71250

*PCH Voltage:* 1.05

*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Enabled

*CPU C6 Report:* Enabled



Based on the PLL findings, should i increase PLL to 1.725V? If i don't get a reply in an hour or two, ill just test with 1.725V(two notches up).

Edit: I'm doing these long P95 tests because this OC will be the equivalent of stock for me. It's something i can fall back on, and use in hot weather. But i might need to use a lower OC for it to work with the stock cooler as well. Anyone know how much voltage the stock heatsink can handle? Oh, and 1.35V is my limit for folding and what not.


----------



## Cwolfer

So I've got a bit of a problem...

mobo is installed. p8p67 ws rev. I can get to the bios easily. But whenever I need to restart/reset (changing settings, installing windows, etc), I have to clear the CMOS before it lets me start the comp again (when I hit the power button, it quickly cycles through the lights and whatever then powers down).

Clearing CMOS makes me lose my settings, meaning I'm never able to install windows or disable the bios settings that might fix this.

Any ideas?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14561339*
> Oh, and could I be added to the club too please, turrican?


Added. Welcome


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14567515*
> So I've got a bit of a problem...
> 
> mobo is installed. p8p67 ws rev. I can get to the bios easily. But whenever I need to restart/reset (changing settings, installing windows, etc), I have to clear the CMOS before it lets me start the comp again (when I hit the power button, it quickly cycles through the lights and whatever then powers down).
> 
> Clearing CMOS makes me lose my settings, meaning I'm never able to install windows or disable the bios settings that might fix this.
> 
> Any ideas?


Managed to gt through windows install and install the asus update utility. tried to update the bios. still makes me reset the cmos after every shut down (preventing me from "save and restart" any changes I make in the bios.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14567515*
> So I've got a bit of a problem...
> 
> mobo is installed. p8p67 ws rev. I can get to the bios easily. But whenever I need to restart/reset (changing settings, installing windows, etc), I have to clear the CMOS before it lets me start the comp again (when I hit the power button, it quickly cycles through the lights and whatever then powers down).
> 
> Clearing CMOS makes me lose my settings, meaning I'm never able to install windows or disable the bios settings that might fix this.
> 
> Any ideas?


Do you have anything connected to the three pin in the red box?


----------



## gessay

finally passed 12+ hours of testing. 4.6ghz and stable! thanks to everyone for all their help!


----------



## dlerch

congrats!


----------



## Break

Gah, thought I was stable @ 1.296v (4.5ghz) but got a bsod while watching a movie on MPC









By how much do you guys increase the offset after a bsod?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14569479*
> Gah, thought I was stable @ 1.296v (4.5ghz) but got a bsod while watching a movie on MPC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By how much do you guys increase the offset after a bsod?


try 0.005?


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14568078*
> Do you have anything connected to the three pin in the red box?


Yes, my radiator fan. why?


----------



## Cwolfer

Unplugging the fan from that slot fixed it! Noob mistake, and you are a God amongst men. +rep til your momma slaps ya.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14569811*
> Unplugging the fan from that slot fixed it! Noob mistake, and you are a God amongst men. +rep til your momma slaps ya.


Glad it helped you out bud - I made the same mistake with my first build!


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14569845*
> Glad it helped you out bud - I made the same mistake with my first build!


Will this address the RAM problem as well? Haven't tried it yet.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cwolfer*


Will this address the RAM problem as well? Haven't tried it yet.


I'm not convinced there was a problem with your RAM at all. Removing your plug from that header should have completely sorted it. However, if you haven't already - now that you've sorted this issue I would swap the CMOS jumper to be 100% sure that there aren't any phantom settings lurking, then boot it and continue as you would.


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14570144*
> I'm not convinced there was a problem with your RAM at all. Removing your plug from that header should have completely sorted it. However, if you haven't already - now that you've sorted this issue I would swap the CMOS jumper to be 100% sure that there aren't any phantom settings lurking, then boot it and continue as you would.


Adding the second stick of ram sticks me at code "F.F." and nothing happens :/

Edit: Got it past F.F. but now it's at "38."

Edit 2: Make that 45.

Edit 3: And now to 58.

All the while no display.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cwolfer*


Adding the second stick of ram sticks me at code "F.F." and nothing happens :/

Edit: Got it past F.F. but now it's at "38."


When you added the first stick, did you boot to BIOS and set the timings before adding the second?


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14570457*
> When you added the first stick, did you boot to BIOS and set the timings before adding the second?


No









I reset CMOS, plugged the stick in, and booted it up.

It's actually working now once I moved the 2nd stick out of the other blue slot and put it in the black slot.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cwolfer*


No









I reset CMOS, plugged the stick in, and booted it up.

It's actually working now once I moved the 2nd stick out of the other blue slot and put it in the black slot.


With a clear CMOS, plug a stick of RAM into slot A2 (blue one nearest the CPU) and boot the machine. Once in the BIOS, set the RAM timings and then save them. With the machine off, set the second stick of RAM into slot B2 (the other blue slot). Reset.

Your machine should be all good!


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


With a clear CMOS, plug a stick of RAM into slot A2 (blue one nearest the CPU) and boot the machine. Once in the BIOS, set the RAM timings and then save them. With the machine off, set the second stick of RAM into slot B2 (the other blue slot). Reset.

Your machine should be all good!


Thanks so much for all your help. So appreciated.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cwolfer*


Thanks so much for all your help. So appreciated.


No problem bud, it's what we're here for. I'm assuming now all is well and it's running as it should?


----------



## Break

Possible dumb question ahead...

I've noticed some graphics artefacts in some (older) games I played today. Could this at all be related to my cpu overclock?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Break*


Possible dumb question ahead...

I've noticed some graphics artefacts in some (older) games I played today. Could this at all be related to my cpu overclock?


Naahh.. It's either the Nvidia driver or the graphics card causing it.

By the way, be gentle with that GTX 570 and overclocking. They tend to have a weak Power Phase setup. Many of these cards have blown up from overvolting GPU and overclocking. Also, many people have destroyed them by overclocking the Video RAM too far.

I keep GTX 570 at stock now. It's fast enough


----------



## Break

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Naahh.. It's either the Nvidia driver or the graphics card causing it.

By the way, be gentle with that GTX 570 and overclocking. They tend to have a weak Power Phase setup. Many of these cards have blown up from overvolting GPU and overclocking. Also, many people have destroyed them by overclocking the Video RAM too far.

I keep GTX 570 at stock now. It's fast enough


I'll try re-installing the driver, hopefully that'll fix it.

I wonder if one of the bsod's during stress testing could have corrupted it?

Dont worry, I have no plans to OC my 570 which is why I got the SC edition... as you said, it's fast enough


----------



## Erper

i cant stop laughing... min temp 8c... heheheh


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


i cant stop laughing... min temp 8c... heheheh











Something is definitely wrong there. Also, look at the speed your running at! lol


----------



## Erper

^
u think..


----------



## Stabum

Hello guys,
I have 2 questions regarding SATA3 and SATA2 connections on my P8P67 Deluxe motherboard.
1) I'm going to buy a OCZ Vertex 3 SSD HD (SATA3) and 2 WD 1TB Caviar Black HDs + 2 DVD Burners (SATA2). I think it's obvious to connect the SSD on a Intel Sata3 Port.
Now where should I connect the 2 Caviar Black HDs? On the Marvell SATA3 Ports or on the SATA2 Intel Ports?
2) (related to the first one) a SATA3 HD can be connected to a SATA2 port?

I apologize because of my terrible english and I thank you all for your useful help


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14566530*
> It got cut off at 240k, and Realtemp shows that i BSOD at 18:07. So im assuming it failed 240k.


Well, either it failed 240K, or it could be some kind of coincidence that it just happened to fail during 240K. I dunno.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14566530*
> I forgot to mentioned I got BSOD 124, so it may be related to PLL. Ill test this tonight for 24h since i won't be home till late tomorrow. Here are the settings is used in my recent 15.45h test:
> 
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> 
> *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
> *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> *By All Cores:* 46
> *Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
> *Memory Frequency:* 1600
> 
> *DRAM Timing Control:* 8-8-8-24-2T
> 
> *EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
> *Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
> *Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Phase Control:* Extreme
> *Duty Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 140% (yeah, this was already red)
> 
> *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> *CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.035V
> *DRAM Voltage:* 1.5V
> 
> *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> *VCCIO Voltage:* Auto
> 
> *CPU PLL Voltage:* 1.71250
> 
> *PCH Voltage:* Auto (but I don't know of any reason to use any specific PCH Voltage)
> 
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
> *Active Processor Cores:* All
> *Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
> *Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
> *Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *CPU C1E:* Enabled
> *CPU C3 Report:* Auto or Disabled
> 
> *CPU C6 Report:* Auto Or Disabled


In the quote above, the red entries are what I strongly recommend changing. The biggest one is the Ai Overclock Tuner setting: it absolutely must be on Manual.

As for the rest:

I am recommending a Load-Line Calibration of Ultra High because that minimizes vDroop the most while avoiding vRise.
I am recommending a VCCIO Voltage of Auto because of how small your overclock is.
I'm recommending a PCH Voltage of Auto because I don't know of any reason to adjust this, especially for small overclocks like 4.6GHz.
I am recommending that C3 and C6 be set to either Auto or Disabled because it will help avoid BSODs while idling since you are using an Offset Voltage
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14566530*
> Based on the PLL findings, should i increase PLL to 1.725V? If i don't get a reply in an hour or two, ill just test with 1.725V(two notches up).


It may seem counter-intuitive, but the idea is to keep decreasing it. So I recommend trying 1.70625V next.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14566530*
> Edit: I'm doing these long P95 tests because this OC will be the equivalent of stock for me. It's something i can fall back on, and use in hot weather. But i might need to use a lower OC for it to work with the stock cooler as well. Anyone know how much voltage the stock heatsink can handle? Oh, and 1.35V is my limit for folding and what not.


I don't know the limits of the stock heatsink, but I also recommend not using it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14574414*
> i cant stop laughing... min temp 8c... heheheh


Hey, your clock speed is over 9000!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stabum;14576724*
> Hello guys,
> I have 2 questions regarding SATA3 and SATA2 connections on my P8P67 Deluxe motherboard.
> 1) I'm going to buy a OCZ Vertex 3 SSD HD (SATA3) and 2 WD 1TB Caviar Black HDs + 2 DVD Burners (SATA2). I think it's obvious to connect the SSD on a Intel Sata3 Port.
> Now where should I connect the 2 Caviar Black HDs? On the Marvell SATA3 Ports or on the SATA2 Intel Ports?
> 2) (related to the first one) a SATA3 HD can be connected to a SATA2 port?
> 
> I apologize because of my terrible english and I thank you all for your useful help


If the Caviar Blacks are both SATA 2 drives, then connect them to 2 of the SATA 2 ports.


----------



## Erper

something is wrong with coretemp....
real temp show "real temp"...
its 26c atm....
with 0.804vcore


----------



## Stabum

Quote:


> If the Caviar Blacks are both SATA 2 drives, then connect them to 2 of the SATA 2 ports.


What if the Caviar Black are Both SATA3?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stabum;14577427*
> What if the Caviar Black are Both SATA3?


If we really want to avoid the Marvell controllers, then 1 of them can be connected to the 1 remaining Intel SATA 3 port while the other can be connected to one of the 4 Intel SATA 2 ports. It'll be limited to SATA 2 specs, but that's ok.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stabum;14577427*
> What if the Caviar Black are Both SATA3?


Someone correct me if I'm wrong but no HDD can fully utilize sata2 even if it's rated sata3


----------



## Erper

can someone explain me few things...
im bit confused with sata connections and with usb3...

there is 6 sata ports on mobo, 4 are for sata 3, 2 for sata 6 and 2 for raid, right?
now, since i have 3 hdds and planing to take sata dvd rw, where should i plug that into...
also note that my case has front esata connection which i put in 1 out of that 4 sata 3 connections...
should i plug that case esata connection in some other hole..

also, there is few usb connections out the back of mobo, 2 of them are usb... what should be connected on it, printer... etc...


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14577779*
> can someone explain me few things...
> im bit confused with sata connections and with usb3...
> 
> there is 6 sata ports on mobo, 4 are for sata 3, 2 for sata 6 and 2 for raid, right?
> now, since i have 3 hdds and planing to take sata dvd rw, where should i plug that into...
> also note that my case has front esata connection which i put in 1 out of that 4 sata 3 connections...
> should i plug that case esata connection in some other hole..
> 
> also, there is few usb connections out the back of mobo, 2 of them are usb... what should be connected on it, printer... etc...


So this is how goes your SATA and RAID thing
2 x SATA 6Gbs ports that are gray
4 x SATA 3Gb/s ports that are blue
And they support Raid 0, 1, 5, 10

2 x SATA 6Gb/s ports Which is controlled by Marvel (you can only attach storage drives)

I think that you can connect any USB device to them.


----------



## Sevens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14568078*
> Do you have anything connected to the three pin in the red box?


Hello,
Can you say me what is this three pin for ?
Thanks


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevens;14578274*
> Hello,
> Can you say me what is this three pin for ?
> Thanks


It is the PWR_FAN connection, for a PSU fan.


----------



## Sevens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14578303*
> It is the PWR_FAN connection, for a PSU fan.


Okay thanks.


----------



## Erper

how to increase speed of copying big file from one hdd to another on thins mobo...
on p5q pro i had average of 70mb/s now i have 30 barely


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14578250*
> 2 x SATA 6Gb/s ports Which is controlled by Marvel (you can only attach storage drives)


You can't boot off of these two sata connections? I was planning on buying a SSD to use on one of those ports.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gessay;14578713*
> You can't boot off of these two sata connections? I was planning on buying a SSD to use on one of those ports.


If I believe right, I had problems with booting from those ports


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14578789*
> If I believe right, I had problems with booting from those ports


Damn! The manual doesn't really say anything. It says that the 6Gb/s top navy blue ports are for data drives only. I believe the 2 ports below it which are the 6Gb/s Gray ports are for bootable drives. If someone can please confirm or deny this fact it would be greatly appreciated before I go ahead and buy a SSD. If it's not true I'll be purchasing a PCIe drive instead.


----------



## KG363

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


*USB Device Over Current Status Detected*

Is it My Mobo or Keyboard


















*I have got it working now!*
I reset the bios! That didn't work!
I tried my keyboard on my laptop. It worked!
So I tried a different keyboard and my Rig booted!
So I went into the bios and did my settings!
Then I shut down and connected my M15 keyboard, and it booted









My keyboard is on USB3!
And I got a message in Windows (before the boot problem) (USB Device Over Current Status Detected) just after safe to removing a USB SD drive from my Front USB3 header!

So we are talking a USB thumb drive being removed causing chaos










I had the same problem and now nothing shows on my monitors and nothing shows on the LED code thing. Is it dead?


----------



## Erper

manual is useless and even info provided on asus forum is same....

@KG363
m8, i have same problem with my wifi keyboard and mouse... its stuck on left side of screen and cant move it...
i dont think they could do any more in bios for this....
my current bios is 1704 which they say its stable...


----------



## 1337Xero

What's the best p8p67 evo bios? Currently I have the 1502 bios.


----------



## nawon72

Does anyone know how many amps my fan headers can handle? Im thinking of using two AP181's on one fan header.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


can someone explain me few things...
im bit confused with sata connections and with usb3...

there is 6 sata ports on mobo, 4 are for sata 3, 2 for sata 6 and 2 for raid, right?
now, since i have 3 hdds and planing to take sata dvd rw, where should i plug that into...


If you have a total of 4 drives (3 hard drives and 1 optical), then plug all 4 into the four SATA 2 ports.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


also note that my case has front esata connection which i put in 1 out of that 4 sata 3 connections...


Which one? One of the 2 navy blue ports, or one of the 2 gray ports?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


also, there is few usb connections out the back of mobo, 2 of them are usb... what should be connected on it, printer... etc...


USB 3.0 devices should be connected to the USB 3.0 ports, and USB 2.0 devices should be connected to the USB 2.0 ports.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


You can't boot off of these two sata connections? I was planning on buying a SSD to use on one of those ports.


Avoid the navy blue (Marvell) ports if possible.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *1337Xero*


What's the best p8p67 evo bios? Currently I have the 1502 bios.


1850 (I'm not just biased either).

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...-ASUS-1850.zip


----------



## King Who Dat

any P8Z68 V-PRO owners out there ? I'd be grateful to anyone who feels like shooting me a pm giving their personal opinions/advice on it. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14585105*
> If you have a total of 4 drives (3 hard drives and 1 optical), then plug all 4 into the four SATA 2 ports.
> 
> Which one? One of the 2 navy blue ports, or one of the 2 gray ports?


ive connected esata in one of 4 light blue connections...
and sata dvd into gray one


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14587495*
> ive connected esata in one of 4 light blue connections...


Those are SATA 2 ports controlled by the Intel chipset.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14587495*
> and sata dvd into gray one


That's a SATA 3 port controlled by the Intel chipset.


----------



## Erper

^
i know... i mean, what difference would be to connect into sata 6 ports... if device is sata 6 ready it will work that way... if not it will work on native speed... that sata dvd is 1.5


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14587546*
> ^
> i know... i mean, what difference would be to connect into sata 6 ports... if device is sata 6 ready it will work that way... if not it will work on native speed... that sata dvd is 1.5


Connecting a SATA 1 or SATA 2 device to a SATA 3 port doesn't allow the device to go any faster.


----------



## Erper

^
i know.... thats what i said


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14587615*
> ^
> i know.... thats what i said


So then what are you asking or saying?


----------



## Erper

ive got confused at first when i saw 8 different ports...
4 for sata 3, 2 for sata 6 and marvel one...
thats why...
than after few guys posted the answer i figure out that no matter which connection devices will work on native speed


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14587650*
> ive got confused at first when i saw 8 different ports...
> 4 for sata 3, 2 for sata 6 and marvel one...
> thats why...
> than after few guys posted the answer i figure out that no matter which connection devices will work on native speed


Oh. Then please stop saying "SATA 3" when you mean SATA 2.

That's where I got confused. If you're going to use "3", then say it like this to avoid confusion: "SATA 3Gb/sec", or "SATA 3G" at the very least. Or, just say "SATA 2" and "SATA 3". Or, "SATA 3Gb/sec" and "SATA 6Gb/sec". Or, "SATA II" and "SATA III".

Saying "SATA 3" means "SATA 6Gb/sec" (SATA III).


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14587692*
> Should have, could have, would have, might have - not should of, could of, would of, or might of (you can also use should've, could've, would've, and might've)
> It's "Learn how to", not "learn to". There's a huge difference.
> SSDs are not hard drives. The term "hard drive" is short for "Hard Disk Drive" (HDD)
> "SSD" means "Solid State Drive", not "Solid State Disk".
> "Heatsink", not "sync"
> It's "lo and behold", not "low and behold". It means "look and behold!"
> It's "I saw", not "I seen". Or you can use "I've seen".


I just saw this. Hilarious!


----------



## turrican9

Very nice of *TwoCables* to share that Signature. Many, if not most people in here do not have English as their native language, including me.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14589726*
> Very nice of *TwoCables* to share that Signature. Many, if not most people in here do not have English as their native language, including me.


This.









That's actually the main reason why I created it.


----------



## Cwolfer

Having some ram problems...

The ram (g.skill sniper series 1600) works fine in:

CPU-Black-Blue-Black(RAM)-Blue(RAM)

It doesn't work with

CPU-Black-Blue(RAM)-Black-Blue

or

CPU-Black-Blue(RAM)-Black-Blue(RAM)

Both of the latter two give me error code 58 on the little diagnostic card thing and it just sits there.

Any ideas?

p8p67 ws revolution


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14589811*
> Having some ram problems...
> 
> The ram (g.skill sniper series 1600) works fine in:
> 
> CPU-Black-Blue-Black(RAM)-Blue(RAM)
> 
> It doesn't work with
> 
> CPU-Black-Blue(RAM)-Black-Blue
> 
> or
> 
> CPU-Black-Blue(RAM)-Black-Blue(RAM)
> 
> Both of the latter two give me error code 58 on the little diagnostic card thing and it just sits there.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> p8p67 ws revolution


Have you tried to boot your system via the Mem OK! button when using the two blue slots? Try that, and if it boots, set speed/RAM timings manually in bios.

If it does not boot, try and boot from a config that works, then set speed/timings manually, turn off system and put RAM in the two blue slots.

When two sticks, ASUS recommends the two blue slots.


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14589842*
> Have you tried to boot your system via the Mem OK! button when using the two blue slots? Try that, and if it boots, set speed/RAM timings manually in bios.
> 
> If it does not boot, try and boot from a config that works, then set speed/timings manually, turn off system and put RAM in the two blue slots.
> 
> When two sticks, ASUS recommends the two blue slots.


Haven't tried the Mem OK option, but the second option you proposed doesn't work for me.

Booted with a stick in the blue furthest to the right
Set speed/timings
Shut down
Put stick in other Blue
Powered up
Error 58


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14589860*
> Haven't tried the Mem OK option, but the second option you proposed doesn't work for me.
> 
> Booted with a stick in the blue furthest to the right
> Set speed/timings
> Shut down
> Put stick in other Blue
> Powered up
> Error 58


Then try and set a lower speed. Also, you could try upping RAM Voltage and/or VCCIO


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Very nice of *TwoCables* to share that Signature. Many, if not most people in here do not have English as their native language, including me.


Even if English is their native language many people make these mistakes.

I'm trying to run Prime95 FFT 1344 and it wont run. It just says to read stress.txt file, which I have no idea where that file is located.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


Even if English is their native language many people make these mistakes.

I'm trying to run Prime95 FFT 1344 and it wont run. It just says to read stress.txt file, which I have no idea where that file is located.


It's located in the same folder where you have Prime95 located.

Anyway, if all you are doing is trying to run 1344K, then looking at the Results.txt log won't show you anything you don't already know.


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


It's located in the same folder where you have Prime95 located.

Anyway, if all you are doing is trying to run 1344K, then looking at the Results.txt log won't show you anything you don't already know.










I have it installed right on the desktop and no such file exists?

I upped my RAM setting from 1333mhz to 1600mhz and wanted to run the 1792/1344 tests before going for a longer test.


----------



## Gastoncapo

hi guys i recently bought a new p8z68 deluxe mobo but im having issues with video output while on bios , it boots up fine ..code shows A3 which means is trying to boot off a hard drive..but i get no video on my screen..this happens occasionally, if i leave the pc off for about 5 minutes and turn it back on i do get video..and im able to log in to bios..etc..etc.. anybody came across this ? i haev tried several gpus and it does the same with all of them . i tried different rams such as 1333 and 1600 and it passes DRAM tests.

i have the following
2500k
nvidia gtx 295
patriot viper 1600ddr3
1k psu

thank you !


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gessay;14590251*
> I have it installed right on the desktop and no such file exists?
> 
> I upped my RAM setting from 1333mhz to 1600mhz and wanted to run the 1792/1344 tests before going for a longer test.


Prime95 doesn't get installed.

Is what have on the desktop a shortcut?


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Prime95 doesn't get installed.

Is what have on the desktop a shortcut?


No I have Prime95 application then 3 text files local,results and prime. I just tried to download the app again from the website and it didn't install stress.txt. When I type in 1344 and go to run it, it gives the message and then when I try to exit Prime it seems to lock the program up. The memory part of it stops but its still stressing my CPU to 100% load and I have to manually kill the process in the task manager. weird


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


No I have Prime95 application then 3 text files local,results and prime. I just tried to download the app again from the website and it didn't install stress.txt. When I type in 1344 and go to run it, it gives the message and then when I try to exit Prime it seems to lock the program up. The memory part of it stops but its still stressing my CPU to 100% load and I have to manually kill the process in the task manager. weird


Well, here are all of the files that I have:

license.txt
local.txt
prime.txt
prime95.exe
readme.txt
results.txt
stress.txt
undoc.txt
whatsnew.txt
Either way, though: stress.txt is kinda like a help file. The results.txt file is the one we should be concerned with.

Anyway, can you tell me what all of your settings are in your UEFI?


----------



## nezzarix

I still can't find any information on manual phase control. Ultra Fast seems to perform better than Extremely and allow lower voltages but I've only seen a few people use it. Anyone have any experience with it?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nezzarix*


I still can't find any information on manual phase control. Ultra Fast seems to perform better than Extremely and allow lower voltages but I've only seen a few people use it. Anyone have any experience with it?


Wow. I thought that someone would have had information on it by now.

How much lower did it enable you to go?


----------



## Erper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gastoncapo*


hi guys i recently bought a new p8z68 deluxe mobo but im having issues with video output while on bios , it boots up fine ..code shows A3 which means is trying to boot off a hard drive..but i get no video on my screen..this happens occasionally, if i leave the pc off for about 5 minutes and turn it back on i do get video..and im able to log in to bios..etc..etc.. anybody came across this ? i haev tried several gpus and it does the same with all of them . i tried different rams such as 1333 and 1600 and it passes DRAM tests.

i have the following
2500k
nvidia gtx 295
patriot viper 1600ddr3
1k psu

thank you !



try reseating your graphic card


----------



## nezzarix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Wow. I thought that someone would have had information on it by now.

How much lower did it enable you to go?


I am at 4.6Ghz with 1.288v. Before I needed 1.296v - 1.304v to be stable. It's not a big improvement but every bit helps.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nezzarix*


I am at 4.6Ghz with 1.288v. Before I needed 1.296v - 1.304v to be stable. It's not a big improvement but every bit helps.


Whoa! I just said something out loud that would get me an infraction! hehehe The cleaner version is "holy crap!"

So what are the rest of your settings?


----------



## nezzarix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Whoa! I just said something out loud that would get me an infraction! hehehe The cleaner version is "holy crap!"

So what are the rest of your settings?



Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual - 350
Phase Control: Manual - Ultra Fast
Duty Control: T.Probe
CPU Current Capability: 130%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
CPU Offset Voltage: -0.055
VVCIO: 1.1v
CPU PLL: 1.7250v
Ram Timings: 9-11-9-27
Command Mode: 1
Speedstep: Enabled
C1E: Enabled
C3/C6: Disabled

Actually discovered that Ultra Fast helps me while trying to stabilize 4.7Ghz.


----------



## TwoCables

omg.

That does it. I'm switching to Ultra Fast. lol Although, that means I have to test it. Ahem. Hmm..


----------



## nezzarix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


omg.

That does it. I'm switching to Ultra Fast. lol Although, that means I have to test it. Ahem. Hmm..


Best of luck! I really would like to find an explanation online as to the difference between Ultra fast and Extreme... I should probably try sending Asus an E-Mail...


----------



## turrican9

I just tried Ultra fast at 5GHz with HT Off. I needed Offset + 0.12 to pass 1344 and 1792 FFT's for 5GHz. I tried + 0.090 when Phase at Ultra Fast, and first worker failed after a few seconds. So I didn't bother trying more, since I wouldn't care if it would pass on a tad lower Vcore then before.

I've also tried lowering the PLL. And it seemed I had a sweetspot at 1.73125 Volts. It would need a tad lower Vcore VS lower or a little higher PLL.

However, this is not enough for me to bother more with it.


----------



## TwoCables

Oh! Then I wonder if this is a characteristic of the P8Z68 boards!


----------



## dlerch

Mine is still running stable as an Ox. Just wanted to thank everyone again for the help. This had to be the most easy process ever. Such an easy OC! I'm sure if I turned of HT, I could push it to 5.0gHz. Maybe with a better cooler perhaps.


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14589842*
> Have you tried to boot your system via the Mem OK! button when using the two blue slots? Try that, and if it boots, set speed/RAM timings manually in bios.
> 
> If it does not boot, try and boot from a config that works, then set speed/timings manually, turn off system and put RAM in the two blue slots.
> 
> When two sticks, ASUS recommends the two blue slots.


Tried using memOK!

Get either error code 38 or 58.

Anyone have any ideas?
Quote:


> Having some ram problems...
> 
> The ram (g.skill sniper series 1600) works fine in:
> 
> CPU-Black-Blue-Black(RAM)-Blue(RAM)
> 
> It doesn't work with
> 
> CPU-Black-Blue(RAM)-Black-Blue
> 
> or
> 
> CPU-Black-Blue(RAM)-Black-Blue(RAM)
> 
> Both of the latter two give me error code 58 on the little diagnostic card thing and it just sits there.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> p8p67 ws revolution


----------



## Erper

idk why but noone is payin attention about this...










if im trying to copy from one hdd to another, thats the speed of it....
and that was only 4.5gb file


----------



## hertz9753

I have both of my Snipers in the black slots(I have the 1.25v Snipers)

P8P67, I like to call it the *plain jane*


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14598567*
> idk why but noone is payin attention about this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if im trying to copy from one hdd to another, thats the speed of it....
> and that was only 4.5gb file


What kind of connection you have between those two machines?
Maybe your HDD is messed up an all you need is a defragmentation.

BTW When I copy files between my pc it's twice the speed and more


----------



## Erper

its one hdd with 3 partitions...
so moving files from first to third...
thats all...


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


idk why but noone is payin attention about this...










if im trying to copy from one hdd to another, thats the speed of it....
and that was only 4.5gb file


It may only be 4.5gb but its 40,000+ files! Try transferring just one file that's that size and see if it goes faster. Anytime you transfer a huge amount of files like that it's gonna slow down. I transfer people's information all day at work and see this all the time. What hdd are you using?


----------



## Smo

Here's my validation;

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1955611

Just started my 12 hour blend run.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14603818*
> Here's my validation;
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1955611
> 
> Just started my 12 hour blend run.


looking good







be sure to check my thread out, sandy stable club


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14603846*
> looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> be sure to check my thread out, sandy stable club


Douche! That's where I meant to post it!

*facepalm*


----------



## KG363

Just sent my P8P67 Deluxe out for RMA


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;14584734*
> Does anyone know how many amps my fan headers can handle?


Does anyone have an idea?

I recently plugged my AP181 fans into the chassis fan headers, and was amazed to find out they support voltage control! Am i the only one who didn't know this?


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gessay;14600897*
> It may only be 4.5gb but its 40,000+ files! Try transferring just one file that's that size and see if it goes faster. Anytime you transfer a huge amount of files like that it's gonna slow down. I transfer people's information all day at work and see this all the time. What hdd are you using?


as i said, its 1 hdd, 3 partitions...
hdd is westerdigital 640 gb, 16mb buffer...
i didnt have these problems on p5q pro


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14604678*
> as i said, its 1 hdd, 3 partitions...
> hdd is westerdigital 640 gb, 16mb buffer...
> i didnt have these problems on p5q pro


Then I recommend making a new thread about this in the Hard Drives & Storage forum. You might end up with the answer faster in there.


----------



## chemaz101

Iv just got my self a p8z68v pro with a 2600k. I was hoping to use the mobo to output just audio to my amp to use the HD audio (DTS hd etc). However the only way i seem to get the comp to recognise the intel audio, is to set iGP as the boot display device instead of my PCI-express card.

So my question really is how can i have the intel graphics enabled, so i can use hd audio, but have my nvidia 570 as the primary boot display and device?


----------



## stone2

Hi everyone,
I have an ASUS P8Z68-V Pro and have attained a 4.5oc but am a little concerned about the VID value in Core Temp. Could you please have a look at my settings and advise if I need to change anything.
Much appreciated.
Cheers


----------



## TwoCables

What is your concern regarding the VID? It looks like a normal VID to me.

Also, enable CPU Spread Spectrum.


----------



## stone2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14606334*
> What is your concern regarding the VID? It looks like a normal VID to me.
> 
> Also, enable CPU Spread Spectrum.


Oh, I was told by someone that my vid was a bit high, and what does CPU Spread Spectrum do?
Thanks for your help


----------



## Erper

is 1.28vcore too much for 41x100....


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stone2;14606439*
> Oh, I was told by someone that my vid was a bit high, and what does CPU Spread Spectrum do?
> Thanks for your help


It minimizes/reduces EMI (Electromagnetic Interference). The only time it should be disabled is if you decide to start adjusting the BCLK.

Anyway, Core Temp shows my VID fluctuating between 1.3511V and 1.3611V.

Who told you that your VID is a bit high?


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14604678*
> as i said, its 1 hdd, 3 partitions...
> hdd is westerdigital 640 gb, 16mb buffer...
> i didnt have these problems on p5q pro


I read that it was only 1 hdd hence me asking "what hdd"(singular) not "what hdds"(plural)

anyways, go to the WD site and download the Data Lifeguard Diagnostic test found here http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?groupid=608&sid=3&lang=en Run that to confirm whether or not the drive is failing. You can have a bad hdd and have it still be working, just not like it should be. This will rule out the possibility of it being a bad hdd and then you can look elsewhere for the answer to your problem.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gessay;14606694*
> I read that it was only 1 hdd hence me asking "what hdd"(singular) not "what hdds"(plural)
> 
> anyways, go to the WD site and download the Data Lifeguard Diagnostic test found here http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?groupid=608&sid=3&lang=en Run that to confirm whether or not the drive is failing. You can have a bad hdd and have it still be working, just not like it should be. This will rule out the possibility of it being a bad hdd and then you can look elsewhere for the answer to your problem.


honestly i even forgot about it... duuh...


----------



## stone2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14606685*
> It minimizes/reduces EMI (Electromagnetic Interference). The only time it should be disabled is if you decide to start adjusting the BCLK.
> 
> Anyway, Core Temp shows my VID fluctuating between 1.3511V and 1.3611V.
> 
> Who told you that your VID is a bit high?


See here: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners-109.html

Thanks


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stone2;14606736*
> See here: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners-109.html
> 
> Thanks


Oh him. I know who he is because I'm familiar with that guide.

He actually never said that your VID is too high. Actually, it looks to me like he barely even answered your question.

Like I said, Core Temp shows my VID fluctuating between 1.3511V and 1.3611V but yet everything is as smooth as butter over here. So, either we _both_ have high VIDs, or he didn't understand what you're asking (I thought that it was very clear, but English is also the only language I speak). I mean, he did not tell you whether or not 1.3611V is considered to be low, average, high, or very high or whatever. He just said some generic stuff that even *I* didn't really understand. I mean, saying _"VID is the stock voltage for the CPU, that shouldn't be very high at all."_ is not the same as saying _"VID is the stock voltage for the CPU, *and it shouldn't be as high as yours at all.*"







_

Although, he does point out the fact that lower VIDs don't always equate to easier overclocking (able to get a big overclock with a lower core voltage).


----------



## stone2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14606893*
> Oh him. I know who he is because I'm familiar with that guide.
> 
> He actually never said that your VID is too high. Actually, it looks to me like he barely even answered your question.
> 
> Like I said, Core Temp shows my VID fluctuating between 1.3511V and 1.3611V but yet everything is as smooth as butter over here. So, either we _both_ have high VIDs, or he didn't understand what you're asking (I thought that it was very clear, but English is also the only language I speak). I mean, he did not tell you whether or not 1.3611V is considered to be low, average, high, or very high or whatever. He just said some generic stuff that even *I* didn't really understand. I mean, saying _"VID is the stock voltage for the CPU, that shouldn't be very high at all."_ is not the same as saying _"VID is the stock voltage for the CPU, *and it shouldn't be as high as yours at all.*"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> 
> Although, he does point out the fact that lower VIDs don't always equate to easier overclocking (able to get a big overclock with a lower core voltage).










Very good answer, So I will enable CPU Spread Spectrum and be happy with my overclock.
Thanks again, I appreciate your help.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stone2;14606947*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very good answer, So I will enable CPU Spread Spectrum and be happy with my overclock.
> Thanks again, I appreciate your help.


You're quite welcome!!


----------



## SteamieHP

Hello guys, I haven't fully read the thread yet but I just wanna ask whether this motherboard is worth buying or not. Is there any problems you guys having with the motherboard?

I'm actually considering between this P8Z68-V pro and maximus IV gene-z. What makes the P8Z68-V pro better than the latter?

I really hope you guys can fill me up on this.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteamieHP;14609747*
> Hello guys, I haven't fully read the thread yet but I just wanna ask whether this motherboard is worth buying or not. Is there any problems you guys having with the motherboard?
> 
> I'm actually considering between this P8Z68-V pro and maximus IV gene-z. What makes the P8Z68-V pro better than the latter?
> 
> I really hope you guys can fill me up on this.


What kind of overclocking will you be doing? Will you be using air cooling, water cooling, or more extreme forms like liquid nitrogen (LN2), dry ice (DICE), phase change, etc.?

If you're going to be doing air or liquid cooling, then the Maximus IV Gene-Z is quite a bit of overkill.


----------



## SteamieHP

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


What kind of overclocking will you be doing? Will you be using air cooling, water cooling, or more extreme forms like liquid nitrogen (LN2), dry ice (DICE), phase change, etc.?

If you're going to be doing air or liquid cooling, then the Maximus IV Gene-Z is quite a bit of overkill.










Actually I'm quite new in this PC upgrade things. I'll be doing simple overclocking. I am not that hardcore though. I just need a system that can help me do 3D modelling, rendering etc. and yes, i do gaming.









I'll be doing air cooling for this upgrade. Is it way overkill? Originally I intended to get P8Z68-V pro, but after seeing the price between those two are almost identical, I shift my interest to the Maximus.

From what i know, the maximus 4 gene-z is good for overclocking but P8z68-V pro has more features am i right? .


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SteamieHP*


Actually I'm quite new in this PC upgrade things. I'll be doing simple overclocking. I am not that hardcore though. I just need a system that can help me do 3D modelling, rendering etc. and yes, i do gaming.









I'll be doing air cooling for this upgrade. Is it way overkill? Originally I intended to get P8Z68-V pro, but after seeing the price between those two are almost identical, I shift my interest to the Maximus.

From what i know, the maximus 4 gene-z is good for overclocking but P8z68-V pro has more features am i right? .


Oh, I forgot: the Gene-Z is a Micro ATX. Historically, Micro ATX boards are usually not as good at overclocking as Standard ATX boards.

So now that I remembered this, I am definitely recommending the P8Z68-V Pro over it.


----------



## SteamieHP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14610266*
> Oh, I forgot: the Gene-Z is a Micro ATX. Historically, Micro ATX boards are usually not as good at overclocking as Standard ATX boards.
> 
> So now that I remembered this, I am definitely recommending the P8Z68-V Pro over it.


Thanks for the heads up. but there are few questions that still got me thinking in comparison between these two boards. What is so special about the maximus IV gene-z? why the price is more expensive than the P8Z68-v pro? I did my research and found out that P8Z68-V pro has more features than the maximus.

Is is because of the maximus overclocking capabilities? or is it because the maximus way good looking than P8Z68-v pro? republic of gamers etc. ? I am so confused right now of which one to get.


----------



## TwoCables

Does the Maximus IV Gene-Z lack any features that you need? If both boards do not lack any of the features you need, then go with the P8Z68-V Pro because as you said, it costs less than the Maximus IV Gene-Z.


----------



## eternal7trance

I've been having the craziest time getting a working motherboard this time around. The first one Newegg shipped me wasn't sealed, but I thought that's how it came and it died in a week. The second motherboard also wasn't sealed and had fingerprints all over it. I tried to install it and that one didn't post at all. Now I'm on board number three and it's coming in today so lets hope it goes well.


----------



## cantdrive55

I've just gotten back an RMA'd P8P67 Pro (Rev 3.0) and went to upgrade the BIOS to v1850 and ran into a strange problem. I have a pair of 7200.12's in raid 0 but when I set to raid and try to boot, it says it doesn't detect any hard drives, although in the bios it does list the drives separately and even my raid volume. But it just does not detect them once it posts.

I tried dropping back to BIOS v1704 thinking thats at least a stable build but the same thing happens? I went back to 1502 and things are working just fine?

On my old board it was working just fine with 1850. Any ideas?


----------



## [TLK]Geek

Add me to the list! P8p67 Vanilla. 4g RipjawsX with a i5 2500K under water.

Currently at 4.5Ghz with -0.04 Offset ~ 1.31 vcore 10 pass IBT stable (Max), haven't had time to do Prime95 yet. I could run stable at 1.30 vcore on manual.

Hottest temp with IBT so far is 64C.

I think I might have a decent chip, hopefully I can toy with other voltages later when I go for 5 Ghz and keep it stable below 1.5 vcore


----------



## MadFerIt

Has anyone been having issues with eSata on the P8P67 Pro? I've updated my drivers using the JMicron drivers and I still can't get my eSata hard drive to be detected.


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cantdrive55*


I've just gotten back an RMA'd P8P67 Pro (Rev 3.0) and went to upgrade the BIOS to v1850 and ran into a strange problem. I have a pair of 7200.12's in raid 0 but when I set to raid and try to boot, it says it doesn't detect any hard drives, although in the bios it does list the drives separately and even my raid volume. But it just does not detect them once it posts.

I tried dropping back to BIOS v1704 thinking thats at least a stable build but the same thing happens? I went back to 1502 and things are working just fine?

On my old board it was working just fine with 1850. Any ideas?


In your bios do you have SATA Mode set to Raid Mode?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


I've been having the craziest time getting a working motherboard this time around. The first one Newegg shipped me wasn't sealed, but I thought that's how it came and it died in a week. The second motherboard also wasn't sealed and had fingerprints all over it. I tried to install it and that one didn't post at all. Now I'm on board number three and it's coming in today so lets hope it goes well.


The box mine arrived in wasn't sealed either. Neither was my EP45-UD3P or my EVGA 680i SLI.

Come to think of it, I've never had a sealed box for any computer part I've ever ordered or purchased locally.


----------



## Cyrilmak

Is anyone having issues with USB memory card readers? The memory card reader in my printer, and the memory card reader that's hooked up to a USB header both are not working. Windows Device manager shows them as portable devices, under disk drives, they show as generic sd card reader/ generic flash card reader, etc. But when I put an sd card, or a memory stick in either memory card reader, the drive letter will pop up in My Computer - but when you click on the drive it says that there's no disk in the drive! I'm going crazy with this.

If I reboot with the memory card in the reader, the card will show up fine and be accessable. But if I take out the card and put it back in, no dice - drive letter shows up, but says no disk in the device.

BIOS shows the memory card reader just fine too. As does the Control Panel - heck even the Disk manager in the admin tools shows the card reader letters too.

Oh to note: USB thumb drives work flawless !

Edit: Also if you right click the drive, you can click format and it shows up! Once you format it, you can access it, but just like before once you pull it out and put it back in - you can't access it.


----------



## henrygale

i used to see a red led coming from the optical out...but it is no longer lit up. what did that led signify? how do i get it back?


----------



## zidave

Can you put me on the list friend?










Asus P8P67 PRO rev 3.1 BIOS version 1850


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrilmak;14625005*
> Is anyone having issues with USB memory card readers? The memory card reader in my printer, and the memory card reader that's hooked up to a USB header both are not working. Windows Device manager shows them as portable devices, under disk drives, they show as generic sd card reader/ generic flash card reader, etc. But when I put an sd card, or a memory stick in either memory card reader, the drive letter will pop up in My Computer - but when you click on the drive it says that there's no disk in the drive! I'm going crazy with this.
> 
> If I reboot with the memory card in the reader, the card will show up fine and be accessable. But if I take out the card and put it back in, no dice - drive letter shows up, but says no disk in the device.
> 
> BIOS shows the memory card reader just fine too. As does the Control Panel - heck even the Disk manager in the admin tools shows the card reader letters too.
> 
> Oh to note: USB thumb drives work flawless !
> 
> Edit: Also if you right click the drive, you can click format and it shows up! Once you format it, you can access it, but just like before once you pull it out and put it back in - you can't access it.


Do you have a 2nd memory card to test this with, or just that one? It sounds like everything is installed correctly with it showing up fine in device manager under portable devices. I would try the obvious first, move all your data from your card to the computer, format the card and see how it works from there. This will rule out the possibility of having a corrupted card.

One trick you can try, is pull up device manager, uninstall everything under portable devices. Right-click portable devices and scan for hardware changes. This will re-install the drivers for the devices. good luck!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14623152*
> The box mine arrived in wasn't sealed either. Neither was my EP45-UD3P or my EVGA 680i SLI.
> 
> Come to think of it, I've never had a sealed box for any computer part I've ever ordered or purchased locally.


Yea the new one I recieved is fine. However now my cpu is bad.


----------



## cantdrive55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gessay;14622333*
> In your bios do you have SATA Mode set to Raid Mode?


Yup its set to RAID and the BIOS itself sees the pair of drives, its just once it posts and tries to boot, it lists "0 drives, 3 usb, 1 hub"


----------



## Cyrilmak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


Do you have a 2nd memory card to test this with, or just that one? It sounds like everything is installed correctly with it showing up fine in device manager under portable devices. I would try the obvious first, move all your data from your card to the computer, format the card and see how it works from there. This will rule out the possibility of having a corrupted card.

One trick you can try, is pull up device manager, uninstall everything under portable devices. Right-click portable devices and scan for hardware changes. This will re-install the drivers for the devices. good luck!


Yeah I did all that. Also I just tried my phone in mass storage mode - I get the letter, but it's not allowing me to browse the phone's card when in mass storage mode. When I put in Media Sync mode - I can view the card just fine. This seems to be effecting all mass storage stuff. This is really irking me. I have no idea what to do next.

Edit: Got sick and tired of it and reinstalled Windows. All is well again in Cyrilmakland.


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrilmak;14630250*
> Yeah I did all that. Also I just tried my phone in mass storage mode - I get the letter, but it's not allowing me to browse the phone's card when in mass storage mode. When I put in Media Sync mode - I can view the card just fine. This seems to be effecting all mass storage stuff. This is really irking me. I have no idea what to do next.
> 
> Edit: Got sick and tired of it and reinstalled Windows. All is well again in Cyrilmakland.


haha. a fresh reload always fixes things.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14627575*
> Yea the new one I recieved is fine. However now my cpu is bad.


Uh-oh. What do you mean?


----------



## hertz9753

I would like to join.









P8P67 vanilla. That is a folding rig with 2600k and a GTX 460 at 100%


----------



## crunkosaur

ASUS P8P67 WS Rev. Can i join


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14636998*
> Uh-oh. What do you mean?


Well I went through three P8P67 Pro boards. The first board was the one that was totally dead, didn't even have a power LED. The second one looked like it had been used so I assumed it was bad. Then the third board is completely new and when I did the memok button it would stop testing and flash on the CPU LED before turning off.

So somehow the first P8P67 Pro and 2500k both died.


----------



## christophermcne

Got me a P8P67 Pro, and I'm lovin it!


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14640014*
> Well I went through three P8P67 Pro boards. The first board was the one that was totally dead, didn't even have a power LED. The second one looked like it had been used so I assumed it was bad. Then the third board is completely new and when I did the memok button it would stop testing and flash on the CPU LED before turning off.
> 
> So somehow the first P8P67 Pro and 2500k both died.


LOL

You and I are an exclusive club...."Club user error"

I took my cpu to work today, just to make sure it was dead before I filed an rma with Intel.
I really didn't want to lose this cpu, low volter.

Anyway we stuck it in a Pro board at work, it friggin killed that board.
Now the cpu has scorch marks on the contacts









I so hate SB..


----------



## munaim1

Wow talk about bad luck, I've read your other threads and there's not much I can say apart from bad luck. I hope that you get this crap sorted once and for all and start enjoying sandy, that's only if you're willing to give it one last try.


----------



## dlerch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14645826*
> LOL
> 
> You and I are an exclusive club...."Club user error"
> 
> I took my cpu to work today, just to make sure it was dead before I filed an rma with Intel.
> I really didn't want to lose this cpu, low volter.
> 
> Anyway we stuck it in a Pro board at work, it friggin killed that board.
> Now the cpu has scorch marks on the contacts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I so hate SB..


Get a p8p67 deluxe

What caused your rig to fry? If it was user error, what did you do wrong.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14647999*
> Get a p8p67 deluxe
> 
> What caused your rig to fry? If it was user error, what did you do wrong.


I'll stick with the Pro since I can walk in and get a replacement board any time.
Not going to invest any money in a new Asus board until they get their bugged slabs of plastic fixed.

I turned it on..


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14649259*
> I'll stick with the Pro since I can walk in and get a replacement board any time.
> Not going to invest any money in a new Asus board until they get their bugged slabs of plastic fixed.
> 
> I turned it on..


I think it's your CPU. Since you took it to work and it fried another MB, maybe your PSU damaged the CPU at home.


----------



## l1o2l

How do we join the club? Do I need to take some pics?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grunion*


LOL

You and I are an exclusive club...."Club user error"

I took my cpu to work today, just to make sure it was dead before I filed an rma with Intel.
I really didn't want to lose this cpu, low volter.

Anyway we stuck it in a Pro board at work, it friggin killed that board.
Now the cpu has scorch marks on the contacts









I so hate SB..


I dunno how the first CPU and Motherboard died without me even overclocking it yet...lol

I already RMA'd the CPU to Intel. Hopefully they don't give me any problems because the CPU and stock fan were RMA'd in perfect condition. I even took a video.


----------



## qwwwizx

Hi all,

I just got me an Asus P8Z68-V Pro today. I seems to work alright, havent tryed OC yet, but hope to be able to reach 5.4-5.5 as I do with my MSI board. My question is:

Why are Asus AI tools showing temperatures that are completely wrong, or at least 10-15c to low? I mean, I got watercooling, but it shows that CPU temps is like 10c below ambient _and thats impossible_.

HWmonitor shows around 15c more than AI tools. Is it bad sensors, or do I need to push a button somewhere?


----------



## christophermcne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwwwizx;14653823*
> Hi all,
> 
> I just got me an Asus P8Z68-V Pro today. I seems to work alright, havent tryed OC yet, but hope to be able to reach 5.4-5.5 as I do with my MSI board. My question is:
> 
> Why are Asus AI tools showing temperatures that are completely wrong, or at least 10-15c to low? I mean, I got watercooling, but it shows that CPU temps is like 10c below ambient _and thats impossible_.
> 
> HWmonitor shows around 15c more than AI tools. Is it bad sensors, or do I need to push a button somewhere?


Exactly what cooling are you using? I have an H50 and I'm getting about 42c idle OC'd at 4.5Ghz. If you can manage 5.5Ghz I will give you a shiny nickel.


----------



## qwwwizx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christophermcne;14653843*
> Exactly what cooling are you using? I have an H50 and I'm getting about 42c idle OC'd at 4.5Ghz. If you can manage 5.5Ghz I will give you a shiny nickel.


You should upgrade that H50 with an Prolimatech Megahalems v. 2.

I go for 5.4GHz+, up to 5.5GHz. I could make 5.4GHz+ with the same CPU on my MSI P67a-GD65. I think the MSI was limited by its VRMs.

As cooling I use a 3x140mm rad (HW-Labs SR-1), with Prolimatech 140mm push fans, and Silverstone 141AP fans to pull and make ventilation to chipsets etc.

You can see it here:


















MSI benchmark with the same CPU:


----------



## slimex

Hi guys,

some time ago, I found my 4,8Ghz stable settings and since then I have been very happy with my overclock. It was 17h+ stable in Prime95 custom blend and I have played Crysis 2, Dirt 3 and Witcher 2 several hours without any problems.

Today I had my system suspend to ram. When I woke it up through keypress a few minutes later, I recognized, that It did not show anything. There was a beep combination and POST-Code EA shown on the boards display.
After cold booting it returned to its previous state. I think this is cause it is hybrid standby and the state is also saved to hard disk. When I try to suspend to disk I have exactly the same issue.

After loading the BIOS' optimal defaults, both suspend modes worked correctly. Afterwards I applied my OC'd settings and the problems returned.

These are my BIOS settings:

Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 48
Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
Memory Frequency: 2133
DRAM Timing Control: CL 9 - 11 - 9 - 28 - 2T
(same like in X.M.P. except the 2T, which is 1T there)
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
Long Duration Maintained: 32s
I set those values to prevent my system from clocking down (switching off turbo) frequently under load. Perhaps this has to do with the high RAM voltage of 1.65V
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.020V
DRAM Voltage: 1.65V
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: 1,15V
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Auto

I did not try to change anything by now. Has anyone had same issues and figured out, how to fix this ? I use suspend to ram from time to time, would be very nice if I also could use this feature on this (pretty new) system.

Last, but not least, I have exactly the same issue with my DELL XPS M1530 notebook (Core2Duo T7700 2,4Ghz) with the difference, that this bios is on standard values without OC. Before installing Win 7 (was delivered with vista x86), everything went well.

Perhaps I have a basic configuration problem ? Both are running Windows 7 x64 SP1.


----------



## qwwwizx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14655311*
> Hi guys,
> 
> some time ago, I found my 4,8Ghz stable settings and since then I have been very happy with my overclock. It was 17h+ stable in Prime95 custom blend and I have played Crysis 2, Dirt 3 and Witcher 2 several hours without any problems.
> 
> Today I had my system suspend to ram. When I woke it up through keypress a few minutes later, I recognized, that It did not show anything. There was a beep combination and POST-Code EA shown on the boards display.
> After cold booting it returned to its previous state. I think this is cause it is hybrid standby and the state is also saved to hard disk. When I try to suspend to disk I have exactly the same issue.
> 
> After loading the BIOS' optimal defaults, both suspend modes worked correctly. Afterwards I applied my OC'd settings and the problems returned.
> 
> These are my BIOS settings:
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
> Memory Frequency: 2133
> DRAM Timing Control: CL 9 - 11 - 9 - 28 - 2T
> (same like in X.M.P. except the 2T, which is 1T there)
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
> Long Duration Maintained: 32s
> I set those values to prevent my system from clocking down (switching off turbo) frequently under load. Perhaps this has to do with the high RAM voltage of 1.65V
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.020V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.65V
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: 1,15V
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto
> 
> I did not try to change anything by now. Has anyone had same issues and figured out, how to fix this ? I use suspend to ram from time to time, would be very nice if I also could use this feature on this (pretty new) system.
> 
> Last, but not least, I have exactly the same issue with my DELL XPS M1530 notebook (Core2Duo T7700 2,4Ghz) with the difference, that this bios is on standard values without OC. Before installing Win 7 (was delivered with vista x86), everything went well.
> 
> Perhaps I have a basic configuration problem ? Both are running Windows 7 x64 SP1.


I have seen this problem on 3 different computers now, and concluded that it was something related to the GFX, eventually Nvidia driver but never got it solved. I just disable hibernate.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwwwizx;14653823*
> Hi all,
> 
> I just got me an Asus P8Z68-V Pro today. I seems to work alright, havent tryed OC yet, but hope to be able to reach 5.4-5.5 as I do with my MSI board. My question is:
> 
> Why are Asus AI tools showing temperatures that are completely wrong, or at least 10-15c to low? I mean, I got watercooling, but it shows that CPU temps is like 10c below ambient _and thats impossible_.
> 
> HWmonitor shows around 15c more than AI tools. Is it bad sensors, or do I need to push a button somewhere?


I don't know what it is about Ai Suite II, but I have never seen it show correct temperatures. So, I recommend just uninstalling Ai Suite II (seriously) and only using Real Temp 3.67:

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667250

If you want to keep Ai Suite II installed but make it stop starting with Windows, then let me know. I can show you the trick! It's not as simple as it might sound, but it's still easy to do (because there are only a few simple steps involved).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14655311*
> Hi guys,
> 
> some time ago, I found my 4,8Ghz stable settings and since then I have been very happy with my overclock. It was 17h+ stable in Prime95 custom blend and I have played Crysis 2, Dirt 3 and Witcher 2 several hours without any problems.
> 
> Today I had my system suspend to ram. When I woke it up through keypress a few minutes later, I recognized, that It did not show anything. There was a beep combination and POST-Code EA shown on the boards display.
> After cold booting it returned to its previous state. I think this is cause it is hybrid standby and the state is also saved to hard disk. When I try to suspend to disk I have exactly the same issue.
> 
> After loading the BIOS' optimal defaults, both suspend modes worked correctly. Afterwards I applied my OC'd settings and the problems returned.
> 
> These are my BIOS settings:
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
> Memory Frequency: 2133
> DRAM Timing Control: CL 9 - 11 - 9 - 28 - 2T
> (same like in X.M.P. except the 2T, which is 1T there)
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
> Long Duration Maintained: 32s
> I set those values to prevent my system from clocking down (switching off turbo) frequently under load. Perhaps this has to do with the high RAM voltage of 1.65V
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.020V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.65V
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: 1,15V
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto
> 
> I did not try to change anything by now. Has anyone had same issues and figured out, how to fix this ? I use suspend to ram from time to time, would be very nice if I also could use this feature on this (pretty new) system.
> 
> Last, but not least, I have exactly the same issue with my DELL XPS M1530 notebook (Core2Duo T7700 2,4Ghz) with the difference, that this bios is on standard values without OC. Before installing Win 7 (was delivered with vista x86), everything went well.
> 
> Perhaps I have a basic configuration problem ? Both are running Windows 7 x64 SP1.


I don't know.


----------



## qwwwizx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I don't know what it is about Ai Suite II, but I have never seen it show correct temperatures. So, I recommend just uninstalling Ai Suite II (seriously) and only using Real Temp 3.67:

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=667250

If you want to keep Ai Suite II installed but make it stop starting with Windows, then let me know. I can show you the trick! It's not as simple as it might sound, but it's still easy to do (because there are only a few simple steps involved).

I don't know.










Ty for replying. I wondered if it was just me or a bug related to celcius.

I uninstalled all the IA suite tweaking and sensor tools. I think asus should remove these from download section to these board, cause it can end up in catastrope for people to get measurements that are so far from reality.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


----------



## henrygale

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henrygale*


i used to see a red led coming from the optical out...but it is no longer lit up. what did that led signify? how do i get it back?


anyone have any info? do your boards have a red light emanating from within the optical port?


----------



## fenderjaguar

Not really liking the P8Z68 m pro board...

Firstly, what's with the PCI ports coming back? They've sacrificed one of the pci express ports for it. Now it only has one pci express port at 16x and one at 4x (the p67 m pro was 8x 8x 4x, when using sli or xfire). Also, the 4x pci express port is at the bottom, so if you are using a true matx case, then you can pretty much forget about crossfire or sli, unless you somehow manage to find a single slot GPU nowadays. I dunno, maybe they just assume people aren't going to be using multiple gpus at all with a micro atx board?

They've also lost the heatsink just above the CPU socket. And they have made it so the sata ports are facing front, instead of at the side.

I'm sure the z68 m pro board brings other improvements though...


----------



## fenderjaguar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henrygale*


anyone have any info? do your boards have a red light emanating from within the optical port?


My board definitely still does that


----------



## fenderjaguar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *qwwwizx*


Ty for replying. I wondered if it was just me or a bug related to celcius.

I uninstalled all the IA suite tweaking and sensor tools. I think asus should remove these from download section to these board, cause it can end up in catastrope for people to get measurements that are so far from reality


My CPU temps read as 10 degrees lower than they actually were with ai suite.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ifference.html


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fenderjaguar*


Not really liking the P8Z68 m pro board...

Firstly, what's with the PCI ports coming back? They've sacrificed one of the pci express ports for it. Now it only has one pci express port at 16x and one at 4x (the p67 m pro was 8x 8x 4x, when using sli or xfire). Also, the 4x pci express port is at the bottom, so if you are using a true matx case, then you can pretty much forget about crossfire or sli, unless you somehow manage to find a single slot GPU nowadays. I dunno, maybe they just assume people aren't going to be using multiple gpus at all with a micro atx board?

They've also lost the heatsink just above the CPU socket. And they have made it so the sata ports are facing front, instead of at the side.

I'm sure the z68 m pro board brings other improvements though...


They probably did not try to make it equal or as good as the P8P67-M PRO because they already got the MAXIMUS IV GENE-Z in their Z68 M-ATX Lineup. So this one is probably something in-between the P8P67-M and P8P67-M PRO boards.


----------



## fenderjaguar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


They probably did not try to make it equal or as good as the P8P67-M PRO because they already got the MAXIMUS IV GENE-Z in their Z68 M-ATX Lineup. So this one is probably something in-between the P8P67-M and P8P67-M PRO boards.


Ah, I see.

That maximus IV gene-z looks pretty damn nice. And I was expecting it to cost a fortune, but it doesn't seem _that_ expensive...


----------



## turrican9

My most sincerely condolences goes to the family and those who knew *Syrillian*...

May he rest in peace..


----------



## turrican9

Added the following persons to the owners list: *[TLK]Geek, zidave, hertz9753, crunkosaur, l1o2l and InfamousLegend*

Welcome


----------



## dlerch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14663285*
> Added the following persons to the owners list: *[TLK]Geek, zidave, hertz9753, crunkosaur, l1o2l and InfamousLegend*
> 
> Welcome


Welcome to the bright side of easy breezy OCing fellas!


----------



## christophermcne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14663285*
> Added the following persons to the owners list: *[TLK]Geek, zidave, hertz9753, crunkosaur, l1o2l and InfamousLegend*
> 
> Welcome


I'm not on the list


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christophermcne;14665584*
> I'm not on the list


Added


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fenderjaguar;14661421*
> Not really liking the P8Z68 m pro board...
> 
> Firstly, what's with the PCI ports coming back? They've sacrificed one of the pci express ports for it. Now it only has one pci express port at 16x and one at 4x (the p67 m pro was 8x 8x 4x, when using sli or xfire). Also, the 4x pci express port is at the bottom, so if you are using a true matx case, then you can pretty much forget about crossfire or sli, unless you somehow manage to find a single slot GPU nowadays. I dunno, maybe they just assume people aren't going to be using multiple gpus at all with a micro atx board?
> 
> They've also lost the heatsink just above the CPU socket. And they have made it so the sata ports are facing front, instead of at the side.
> 
> I'm sure the z68 m pro board brings other improvements though...


Each model serves a purpose.









For example, I required a board that has at least one PCI slot but I did not need more than one PCI-E slot. Some people have absolutely no need for a PCI slot and need 2 or more PCI-E slots.

So, now it's easier than ever to buy based on features!


----------



## [TLK]Geek

So.... I updated my BIOS to 1704 from the original bios that it came with on my vanilla p8p67 and now my offset values have changed to what I used to have to put in to boot into windows.

Before update I could boot into windows with a +.005 offset @ 4.8Ghz.

PLL Overvoltage was enabled. When I loaded the cpu it would hover around 1.40 vcore.

Now after update it takes +.040 offset @4.8Ghz with PLL enabled, but still loads at 1.4 vcore or so...

Has anyone else encountered this issue? It seems strange since offset values work off of VID of the chip which shouldn't change with bios updates? correct?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *qwwwizx*


*snip*



Quote:



Originally Posted by *fenderjaguar*


My CPU temps read as 10 degrees lower than they actually were with ai suite.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ifference.html


And here likely is why(taken from here): 
1704 changelog:
- Improve S4 resume support under GPT boot configuration.
- Improve EPU support for new CPUs.
- Improve USB compatibility.
- Improve PCIE RAID card compatibility.
- Improve S3 resume support when using high frequency DRAM.
- Enable support of IRST 10.5.x.
*- Change CPU temperature display from Tjunction to Tcase.
*
I know the above is for the P67 PRO, but im pretty sure ASUS did this for their other boards. And like fenderjaguar said, the temperature change is approximately 10*C lower than the average temp other programs give.


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[TLK]Geek;14667097*
> So.... I updated my BIOS to 1704 from the original bios that it came with on my vanilla p8p67 and now my offset values have changed to what I used to have to put in to boot into windows.
> 
> Before update I could boot into windows with a +.005 offset @ 4.8Ghz.
> 
> PLL Overvoltage was enabled. When I loaded the cpu it would hover around 1.40 vcore.
> 
> Now after update it takes +.040 offset @4.8Ghz with PLL enabled, but still loads at 1.4 vcore or so...
> 
> Has anyone else encountered this issue? It seems strange since offset values work off of VID of the chip which shouldn't change with bios updates? correct?


Actually the VID is not a constant on these CPUs. Apparently the CPU can request VID changes based on load, temperature, etc... that's why you use offset for overclocking.


----------



## [TLK]Geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14674518*
> Actually the VID is not a constant on these CPUs. Apparently the CPU can request VID changes based on load, temperature, etc... that's why you use offset for overclocking.


That doesn't really explain how it took me .35 more offset after a bios update to load windows...

It also doesn't explain how with the same load and average temps how it took .60 more offset to be stable at 4.5Ghz after a bios update. The test load was the same, the temps were around the same. the only thing that changed was the bios..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[TLK]Geek;14667097*
> So.... I updated my BIOS to 1704 from the original bios that it came with on my vanilla p8p67 and now my offset values have changed to what I used to have to put in to boot into windows.
> 
> Before update I could boot into windows with a +.005 offset @ 4.8Ghz.
> 
> PLL Overvoltage was enabled. When I loaded the cpu it would hover around 1.40 vcore.
> 
> Now after update it takes +.040 offset @4.8Ghz with PLL enabled, but still loads at 1.4 vcore or so...
> 
> Has anyone else encountered this issue? It seems strange since offset values work off of VID of the chip which shouldn't change with bios updates? correct?


I don't know how to explain this, however I do have a question: why are you using Internal PLL Overvoltage?

(in case you're wondering, I, too need +0.40V to achieve 1.392V to 1.400V, however I've never known anything else because I flashed straight to 1850 before I even installed Windows)


----------



## [TLK]Geek

I have to use PLL Overvoltage to boot into windows at 48x multi o I freeze loading windows.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[TLK]Geek;14677291*
> I have to use PLL Overvoltage to boot into windows at 48x multi o I freeze loading windows.


Hmm. What are the rest of your settings?


----------



## [TLK]Geek

Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By Per Core
Core 1: 48
Core 2: 48
Core 3: 48
Core 4: 48
Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
Memory Frequency: 1600Mhz
DRAM Timing Control: 9-9-9-24-1T
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.005V
DRAM Voltage: 1.5V
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Auto

This was prior to installing the 1850 bios. After the 1850 bios I had to change the + offset to .040v to be able to boot into windows.

See why it doesn't make sense now? The only thing that changed was the bios. I thought to myself... hrmm I still haven't updated my bios I should do that. So I did. And then it fubarred both my unstable (just not tested) but bootable 4.8Ghz clock and my STABLE 4.5Ghz clock.

Any ideas?


----------



## TwoCables

Like I said, I know. I have 1850, and I also need +0.040V to get 1.392V to 1.400V. However, I also flashed directly to 1850 before doing anything once I finished upgrading to Sandy Bridge. So, I do not know whether or not I would have needed a lower offset with the stock BIOS.

That wasn't my concern. My concern is that there might be something else we can change to enable you to disable Internal PLL Overvoltage.

So, the first thing I want to look at are the memory timings: is 9-9-9-24-1T the same as what you see in the far-right column in CPU-Z's Timings Table on its SPD tab?


----------



## munaim1

Hey just though I'd get this piece of info on here, courtesy of Rellian and ALL credit to him:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/968053-official-sandy-stable-club-benchmarks-stable-300.html#post14658240

Regarding PLL voltage and a few other's.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14678024*
> Hey just though I'd get this piece of info on here, courtesy of Rellian and ALL credit to him:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/968053-official-sandy-stable-club-benchmarks-stable-300.html#post14658240
> 
> Regarding PLL voltage and a few other's.


Whoa. Now that's some good stuff right there!

Are you posting this in response to me bringing up Internal PLL Overvoltage a few minutes ago?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14678083*
> Whoa. Now that's some good stuff right there!
> 
> Are you posting this in response to me bringing up Internal PLL Overvoltage a few minutes ago?


Indeed it is and yeah kinda, it reminded me of his post and thought I have to share it with the club


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14678122*
> Indeed it is and yeah kinda, it reminded me of his post and thought I have to share it with the club


Oh. I mean, Internal PLL Overvoltage is quite different. So, I am just making sure that this distinction is made for [TLK]Geek's benefit.


----------



## Cyrilmak

Crap... wrong thread. lol.


----------



## [TLK]Geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14678235*
> Oh. I mean, Internal PLL Overvoltage is quite different. So, I am just making sure that this distinction is made for [TLK]Geek's benefit.


Yeah I've read all over that as well.... I"ll just keep experimenting when I have more time and see what I can come up with. Thanks for the help so far eveyrone


----------



## stone2

If you want to keep Ai Suite II installed but make it stop starting with Windows, then let me know. I can show you the trick! It's not as simple as it might sound, but it's still easy to do (because there are only a few simple steps involved).

Hi twocables,
yeah I'd like to know that as I use it from time to time but would likeit to stop starting with windows. And can I join?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stone2*


If you want to keep Ai Suite II installed but make it stop starting with Windows, then let me know. I can show you the trick! It's not as simple as it might sound, but it's still easy to do (because there are only a few simple steps involved).

Hi twocables,
yeah I'd like to know that as I use it from time to time but would likeit to stop starting with windows. And can I join?










I think it's:

Press the start button and type msconfig, go to the startup tab and look for AI Suite and untick


----------



## stone2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14658124*
> I don't know what it is about Ai Suite II, but I have never seen it show correct temperatures. So, I recommend just uninstalling Ai Suite II (seriously) and only using Real Temp 3.67:
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667250
> 
> If you want to keep Ai Suite II installed but make it stop starting with Windows, then let me know. I can show you the trick! It's not as simple as it might sound, but it's still easy to do (because there are only a few simple steps involved).
> 
> I don't know.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14693555*
> I think it's:
> 
> Press the start button and type msconfig, go to the startup tab and look for AI Suite and untick


Lol, yeah but there are a lot of references to the suite and instead of disabling all maybe twocables has a better option.
Thanks anyway


----------



## qwwwizx

Hi all,

I am doing a lot of benching, and have come to the sad fact that later bios-versions sucks, when it comes to getting the last drops of performance out of the system. Maybe compatibility and stability adjustments have been a priority for ASUS, which make good sense, but for my benching it is just not really important.

Do anyone know where I can get older BIOS's versions for my P8Z68v pro board?

I can get 05xx from ASUS website, but what I am looking for is something older, like 02xx, 03xx, 04xx to find the best for my system.

/qwwwixz


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stone2;14692790*
> Hi twocables,
> yeah I'd like to know that as I use it from time to time but would likeit to stop starting with windows. And can I join?


Absolutely! However, don't do this if you want to use AI Suite II to make changes to your overclock or something. The reason is because it applies the changes during the Windows startup. To see what I mean, make an adjustment to your overclock in AI Suite II and then reboot into the UEFI and look for that change.

So in other words, AI Suite II is very much like video card overclocking software: the changes are always applied every time Windows launches the software during startup.

After following these instructions, launching it will always be on *your* terms.









Open Task Scheduler (in Vista and 7, open the Start Menu, type *task scheduler*, and then press Enter)
On the far left side, expand *Task Scheduler Library*
Select "ASUS"
In the middle, you'll see two Tasks named *"*ASUS AI Suite II Execute", and "ASUS DigiVRM Help"
Right-click them and choose "Disable" (you can select both by holding down either Shift or Ctrl while selecting)
Close Task Manager
Now AI Suite II will no longer start with Windows! The best part is that AI Suite II will *not* automatically undo the changes you made in Task Scheduler when you open it, so now it's just like any _other_ program. You can also Shut Down or Restart while AI Suite II is running, and it will still *not* cause it to start with Windows.









However, there are still a bunch of processes that start with Windows and run in the background! Fortunately, you can change their behavior so that they don't start until you launch AI Suite II. Here's how:

Open Services.msc (open the Start Menu, type *services.msc*, and then press Enter)
Look for the following services:
ASUS Com Service
ASUS HM Com Service
ASUS System Control Service

Change *both* "ASUS Com Service" and "ASUS HM Com Service" to *Manual*.
Change "ASUS System Control Service" to *Disabed*.
So now when you open AI Suite II, it will start both "ASUS Com Service" and "ASUS HM Com Service". If these were set to Disabled, then you'd get an error.









*Note:* every single process that gets started by these two services will continue running even after completely exiting AI Suite II. So if you wanted to be in complete control and always stop them right after exiting AI Suite II, then go into Services.msc, right-click the two services we set to "manual", and then choose "Stop" right after exiting AI Suite II.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14693555*
> I think it's:
> 
> Press the start button and type msconfig, go to the startup tab and look for AI Suite and untick


Yeah, but Msconfig is not for permanent changes. It is nothing more than a diagnostic tool that is used to make temporary changes to root out the cause of a problem. Afterward, everything must be set back to normal.


----------



## eternal7trance

Intel does their RMA's fast! I shipped my processor out on Friday last week and now they are shipping it back with UPS 2 day so it will be here tomorrow. I'm excited because I'm tired of using the laptop. They didn't say anything about what happened so hopefully they are shipping a new one back.


----------



## wermad

I'm on the fence whether to switch to the MIVE(Z) or keep my ws revo









I know the rog boards are nice and fancy but I keep hearing the MIVE will handle my gpu setup better. I use to own a R3E, so I do have some experience with the rog boards. Same phase design I believe.

Thanks and + rep for helpful info.


----------



## TFL Replica

Anyone know if it's possible to update the USB 3 drivers on the P67 boards with drivers listed on the Z68 pages (all Renesas)?


----------



## 0megaR0uter

So far, I'm loving my P8P67 Pro


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0megaR0uter;14709070*
> So far, I'm loving my P8P67 Pro


What did you upgrade from? Noticed any better gaming performance VS previous system, even if using that 9800GTX +?


----------



## [TLK]Geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwwwizx;14694717*
> Hi all,
> 
> I am doing a lot of benching, and have come to the sad fact that later bios-versions sucks, when it comes to getting the last drops of performance out of the system. Maybe compatibility and stability adjustments have been a priority for ASUS, which make good sense, but for my benching it is just not really important.
> 
> Do anyone know where I can get older BIOS's versions for my P8Z68v pro board?
> 
> I can get 05xx from ASUS website, but what I am looking for is something older, like 02xx, 03xx, 04xx to find the best for my system.
> 
> /qwwwixz


I basically have experiences the same thing as you! Older Bioses seem to give me a better OC/lower Vcores at higher clocks. Seems pretty strange. I've only tried 1504/17xx/1850 and the 1504 is the most stable at higher OCs with less Vcore!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;14706311*
> Anyone know if it's possible to update the USB 3 drivers on the P67 boards with drivers listed on the Z68 pages (all Renesas)?


Get them here. I have an updated list of all of the latest drivers and BIOSes.


----------



## 0megaR0uter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


What did you upgrade from? Noticed any better gaming performance VS previous system, even if using that 9800GTX +?


Don't laugh, promise?

I went from a Dual Core *gasp* purchased machine.... A Gateway no less.... This was a few years back, I needed a new machine at the time (I'm talking pre World of Warcraft here)...

So to be perfectly honest, I sat down a few month back and started doing my homework... It came down to price and availability at my local store (micro center).

So I can say that playing Starcraft 2 is much more enjoyable on my P8P67Pro powered 5 ghz rig, than it was on my dual core gateway box that saw it's best days before I even purchased it.


----------



## stone2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Absolutely! However, don't do this if you want to use AI Suite II to make changes to your overclock or something. The reason is because it applies the changes during the Windows startup. To see what I mean, make an adjustment to your overclock in AI Suite II and then reboot into the UEFI and look for that change.

So in other words, AI Suite II is very much like video card overclocking software: the changes are always applied every time Windows launches the software during startup.

After following these instructions, launching it will always be on *your* terms.









Open Task Scheduler (in Vista and 7, open the Start Menu, type *task scheduler*, and then press Enter)
On the far left side, expand *Task Scheduler Library*
Select "ASUS"
In the middle, you'll see two Tasks named *"*ASUS AI Suite II Execute", and "ASUS DigiVRM Help"
Right-click them and choose "Disable" (you can select both by holding down either Shift or Ctrl while selecting)
Close Task Manager
 Now AI Suite II will no longer start with Windows! The best part is that AI Suite II will *not* automatically undo the changes you made in Task Scheduler when you open it, so now it's just like any _other_ program. You can also Shut Down or Restart while AI Suite II is running, and it will still *not* cause it to start with Windows.









However, there are still a bunch of processes that start with Windows and run in the background! Fortunately, you can change their behavior so that they don't start until you launch AI Suite II. Here's how:

Open Services.msc (open the Start Menu, type *services.msc*, and then press Enter)
Look for the following services:
ASUS Com Service
ASUS HM Com Service
ASUS System Control Service

Change *both* "ASUS Com Service" and "ASUS HM Com Service" to *Manual*.
Change "ASUS System Control Service" to *Disabed*.
So now when you open AI Suite II, it will start both "ASUS Com Service" and "ASUS HM Com Service". If these were set to Disabled, then you'd get an error.









*Note:* every single process that gets started by these two services will continue running even after completely exiting AI Suite II. So if you wanted to be in complete control and always stop them right after exiting AI Suite II, then go into Services.msc, right-click the two services we set to "manual", and then choose "Stop" right after exiting AI Suite II.









Yeah, but Msconfig is not for permanent changes. It is nothing more than a diagnostic tool that is used to make temporary changes to root out the cause of a problem. Afterward, everything must be set back to normal.


Wicked, Just the info I was looking for.







Bet I'm not the only one who finds this info helpful.
Thanks Twocables, now if I can only figure out why my nvidia display driver stops responding and recovering all would be sweet.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stone2*


Wicked, Just the info I was looking for.







Bet I'm not the only one who finds this info helpful.
Thanks Twocables, now if I can only figure out why my nvidia display driver stops responding and recovering all would be sweet.










You're very welcome!

Although, now you got me curious: which driver are you using? I mean, which version?


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Get them here. I have an updated list of all of the latest drivers and BIOSes.










Your thread is a goldmine. Repped.


----------



## stone2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


You're very welcome!

Although, now you got me curious: which driver are you using? I mean, which version?


Ha,ha. Oh no, don't you realise you're opening a can of worms








Well...if you insist. I'm running 280.26. I have done some research and seems this is a fairly common problem with fixes from reinstalling drivers to hardware, heat and psu problems. Im pretty sure all my hardware is fine and my suspicion is file corruption from system crashes and lockups during my overclock, although to be honest I'm really not sure.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stone2*


Ha,ha. Oh no, don't you realise you're opening a can of worms








Well...if you insist. I'm running 280.26. I have done some research and seems this is a fairly common problem with fixes from reinstalling drivers to hardware, heat and psu problems. Im pretty sure all my hardware is fine and my suspicion is file corruption from system crashes and lockups during my overclock, although to be honest I'm really not sure.


Did it begin after upgrading to 280.26?

Also, is there a possibility that Windows Update installed a Microsoft version of the driver behind your back?


----------



## stone2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Did it begin after upgrading to 280.26?

Also, is there a possibility that Windows Update installed a Microsoft version of the driver behind your back?


No, it was doing it before and checking driver, nvidia is firmly installed.
Lol, theres always something to fix with pc's and software. Guess thats why I'm an enthusiast.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stone2*


No, it was doing it before and checking driver, nvidia is firmly installed.
Lol, theres always something to fix with pc's and software. Guess thats why I'm an enthusiast.










Did it do it with 275.33?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stone2*


No, it was doing it before and checking driver, nvidia is firmly installed.
Lol, theres always something to fix with pc's and software. Guess thats why I'm an enthusiast.










If you're having problems with Nvidia drivers refer to my Review thread here:

*[REVIEW] - Comparison of a few of the latest Nvidia drivers inc* Xtreme-G*


----------



## stone2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Did it do it with 275.33?


 Because my vid card is new I've only ever had two drivers and if the one before 280.26 was 275.33 then yes.


----------



## Fguarezi

Hello, what better BIOS for P8Z68-V Pro?

Thank you.


----------



## slimex

Hi everyone,

In the last few weeks I had the following problem 2 times while booting:
BIOS showed a message, that overclocking failed and prompted for pressing F1 to get into setup.

After exiting setup without changing anything it booted up correctly. It could be, that this 2 times were after a hardware change, but I do not really remember.

Is this normal or should I consider changing bios options to fix this, if it occurs again ? The first time I thought, it could be cause of PLL overvoltage being off and I switched it on. The config is 17h+ prime 6gb custom stable and does not have any other stability problems.


----------



## hmar

Hi guys,

After years of computing on low rate computers, I have spend money on a "super







" computer (Asus P8Z68 Deluxe, Intel 2600k, 8Gb Patriot 1600 memory, 2TB raid0 WD disks + Intel SSD 120 GB (64Gb Irst, 48Gb boot), Asus Nvidia GTX580. Now I want to learn to get the most out of the beast.

rgds,

Hmar


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar;14718321*
> Hi guys,
> 
> After years of computing on low rate computers, I have spend money on a "super
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " computer (Asus P8Z68 Deluxe, Intel 2600k, 8Gb Patriot 1600 memory, 2TB raid0 WD disks + Intel SSD 120 GB (64Gb Irst, 48Gb boot), Asus Nvidia GTX580. Now I want to learn to get the most out of the beast.
> 
> rgds,
> 
> Hmar


Hi,

pretty nice rig. Those Sandy Bridge CPUs have great overclocking capabilities. I would suggest, that you grab TwoCables settings template from one of the first posts of this thread and config your bios according to this.

Afterwards you should try testing stability using Prime95 and do a torture test. Config: 8 threads, Blend or custom with 6000mb and all other values on default. If this test runs for a few hours, you get an idea if the system is stable or not. If the test runs 12h+ without any error, you can consider your system to be stable.

While testing you should monitor core temps using RealTemp, should not be too high (80°C or more), but opinions about temps differ.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fguarezi;14713987*
> Hello, what better BIOS for P8Z68-V Pro?
> 
> Thank you.


Welcome to OCN buddy









As for your question I don't know the best but the latest BIOS is 0606, which can be found here

Also please fill out your sys specs in here http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


----------



## Fguarezi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14718884*
> Welcome to OCN buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for your question I don't know the best but the latest BIOS is 0606, which can be found here
> 
> Also please fill out your sys specs in here http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


Thank you.

Want to know what bios is more stable overclock.

Sorry my English.

I'm from Brazil.


----------



## doc2142

Hi guys, What options I can turn off in bios to reduce the post loading screens. I get so many of them I was wondering if any of them are not needed. That will give me a lower boot time!

Thank you so much!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doc2142;14724816*
> Hi guys, What options I can turn off in bios to reduce the post loading screens. I get so many of them I was wondering if any of them are not needed. That will give me a lower boot time!
> 
> Thank you so much!


These.







Although, it does depend on you as well because you could be using some of these things (Note: I have the EVO, so you may see some different options):




























In addition, I recommend disabling Full Screen Logo in the Boot tab. If you do this, then I recommend holding down Del while the motherboard is rebooting to get into the UEFI. When the POST information disappears, you can let go of the Del key.


----------



## PB4UGO

hi all...i've had my p8p67 pro for about 4 months now on my first build...couldn't be happier.

i have since removed all the blue anodizing and covered/painted every port black. i hope you can forgive me









i suppose i could have just gotten a mobo that had the color scheme i went with, but i never even knew about modding until after i bought everything. So again, just introducing myself.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doc2142;14724816*
> Hi guys, What options I can turn off in bios to reduce the post loading screens. I get so many of them I was wondering if any of them are not needed. That will give me a lower boot time!
> 
> Thank you so much!


I disabled some things in BIOS to save time on boot but now I'm getting double boot


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14727621*
> I disabled some things in BIOS to save time on boot but now I'm getting double boot


What do you mean? Can you describe it in detail?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14727673*
> What do you mean? Can you describe it in detail?


Two cycles in the bios would be my guess.


----------



## Banjosancro

I found my way to this forum searching for a fix to the double posting issue on boot up.

The fix for me was to update to the latest BIOS and cleared the cmos as described early in this thread.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;14726842*
> hi all...i've had my p8p67 pro for about 4 months now on my first build...couldn't be happier.
> 
> i have since removed all the blue anodizing and covered/painted every port black. i hope you can forgive me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i suppose i could have just gotten a mobo that had the color scheme i went with, but i never even knew about modding until after i bought everything. So again, just introducing myself.


Please post pictures ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753;14728043*
> Two cycles in the bios would be my guess.


Yeah, I am figuring that; but I want him to tell me.


----------



## eternal7trance

I'm excited to finally have my computer up and running after all these RMAs I had to do.


----------



## doc2142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14726804*
> These.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although, it does depend on you as well because you could be using some of these things (Note: I have the EVO, so you may see some different options):
> 
> In addition, I recommend disabling Full Screen Logo in the Boot tab. If you do this, then I recommend holding down Del while the motherboard is rebooting to get into the UEFI. When the POST information disappears, you can let go of the Del key.


You rock man! THank you


----------



## dlerch

mine is still running strong. having a blast gaming and editing.


----------



## doc2142

Woot this board rocks! Check out my boot up time with SSD thanks to Two Cable suggestions!





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wET5kjQgyEQ&feature=player_embedded[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## VaporXtreme

hey how is the version 3.1 M8P67 Pro Mobo.

I heard they cheapened out on certain things. I mean will i hate the board now if i get it


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doc2142;14733943*
> Woot this board rocks! Check out my boot up time with SSD thanks to Two Cable suggestions!


Whoa. That's not bad at all. Your shut down time was rather long, but your startup time makes up for it quite a bit! I am especially referring to 0:38! Mine does not stop there! Instead, I see the logo form all the way and then it brings me to the desktop the very moment that the logo finishes forming. However, my restart time is a tiny bit shorter.


















This is a little script I found on the internet a long time ago called "Restart-Time.vbs". I think I found it here:

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/720-restart-time.html


----------



## PB4UGO

any idea when the next BIOS update for p8p67 pro is due? Getting close to 2 months on 1850.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;14737461*
> any idea when the next BIOS update for p8p67 pro is due? Getting close to 2 months on 1850.


It should have been out a long time ago. I heard rumors about a 19xx bios right after the 1850 Beta. So it is strange indeed.


----------



## King Who Dat

I just got in the p8p67 pro 3.1 b3. it's running fine, but I'm showing 60 degrees motherboard temp in speccy. the temp hasn't moved and I have sick airflow so I'm assuming it isn't reading correctly. can anyone tell me what to disable/enable to have all my fans running at max settings ? noise is not an issue for me. thanks.


----------



## Erper

i have pro 3.1...
as far i know there is no problem whatsoever


----------



## Rommers

Hi, there!!

I'm Jorge, from Chile. Looking for tips to learn how to OC, I found you, guys. I'd like to participate and be a part of this club.

Got a P8P67 Pro B3 + i5 2500k

About OCing, I know only the basics. That's why I'm here. I want to save some milivolts and degrees.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Break

I'm looking to buy a second GTX 570 this week.

I've never used SLI before, so for the z68 v-pro, is it just a case of plug n play? Any settings that need to be changed?

Also noticed that when using SLI, the PCI slots switch from x16 to x8/x8... is this a big deal?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14744953*
> I'm looking to buy a second GTX 570 this week.
> 
> I've never used SLI before, so for the z68 v-pro, is it just a case of plug n play? Any settings that need to be changed?
> 
> Also noticed that when using SLI, the PCI slots switch from x16 to x8/x8... is this a big deal?


yep just insert the card into the other PCI-E slot and your good to go, obviously after enabling SLI in NVCP. With the 8x config, the difference is minimal compared to 16x, so yeah no big deal.

Hope that helps


----------



## Break

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14745042*
> yep just insert the card into the other PCI-E slot and your good to go, obviously after enabling SLI in NVCP. With the 8x config, the difference is minimal compared to 16x, so yeah no big deal.
> 
> Hope that helps


Yep, thanks.


----------



## Fguarezi

Bios 0606.

[email protected] 1.32v PLL Overvoltage Disable, LLC Ultra, vcore Fixed.
Ripjaws X [email protected] 1.55v



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14727673*
> What do you mean? Can you describe it in detail?


Sorry that it took so long to answer, my parents forced me to go away for 3 days.

Thing is that I decided to disable some things in BIOS which I don't need would save me on boot time ( I ran restart time and it was 95 sec on almost fresh install of Windows)
I might be mistaken that I have dual boot but this is what I'm experiencing.
Before:
I push power button MB logo, something about Marvell, Boot menu (have multiple OS)
After:
Push power, MB logo, black screen, MB logo, Boot menu.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14748067*
> Sorry that it took so long to answer, my parents forced me to go away for 3 days.
> 
> Thing is that I decided to disable some things in BIOS which I don't need would save me on boot time ( I ran restart time and it was 95 sec on almost fresh install of Windows)
> I might be mistaken that I have dual boot but this is what I'm experiencing.
> Before:
> I push power button MB logo, something about Marvell, Boot menu (have multiple OS)
> After:
> Push power, MB logo, black screen, MB logo, Boot menu.


May I see screenshots of your Onboard Devices Configuration (just as thorough as mine if possible)?

Just in case, F12 takes screenshots and a USB flash drive is required.

Anyway, that's not a dual boot or anything. It sounds to me like maybe the Marvell ports are still enabled. If not, then it's something else which I believe I will recognize once I see your screenshots.

By the way, if you take screenshots using F12, then they get saved as 24-bit BMPs which result in large file sizes. So I recommend doing a Save As in Microsoft Paint and save them using the .PNG format. The high quality is retained, but the large file size isn't.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14753230*
> May I see screenshots of your Onboard Devices Configuration (just as thorough as mine if possible)?
> 
> Just in case, F12 takes screenshots and a USB flash drive is required.
> 
> Anyway, that's not a dual boot or anything. It sounds to me like maybe the Marvell ports are still enabled. If not, then it's something else which I believe I will recognize once I see your screenshots.
> 
> By the way, if you take screenshots using F12, then they get saved as 24-bit BMPs which result in large file sizes. So I recommend doing a Save As in Microsoft Paint and save them using the .PNG format. The high quality is retained, but the large file size isn't.


Thanks for the heads up for the *.BMP Would have uploaded them as they where









Anyways I'm going to post pictures in the morning, it's really late and this was a long day.

Added pictures of settings


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14753686*
> Thanks for the heads up for the *.BMP Would have uploaded them as they where
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways I'm going to post pictures in the morning, it's really late and this was a long day.
> 
> Added pictures of settings


Here are the things you might be able to disable. However, check with yourself because I am not the one using your computer.







Only you will know what can be disabled and what can't. Most of these are what I would disable because they are things I've already disabled because I am not using them:

Bluetooth Controller
JMB Storage Controller
JMB Storage OPROM
Display OptionRom in POST
Realtek LAN Controller
Serial Port
I think if you disable the JMB Storage Controller, then the POST time will be reduced right away.


----------



## TwoCables

Anyway, my post above is not why I came to this club thread today. About an hour ago, the following happened which was very new to me. So, I'm hoping it has happened to someone else because I would love to learn why it happened and possibly how to prevent it from happening again.

I was watching a YouTube video
The video reached its end
So I got up to go to the bathroom
I came back to find that the computer froze (for the first time ever)
I pressed the Reset button on my case
There was no POST at all (the monitor didn't even turn back on)
I pressed Reset again
Still no POST
I turned the system off
I turned the PSU off
I pressed the power button on my case a few times to discharge the capacitors
Tried again
Still no POST
I pressed the Clr CMOS button (I held it down)
The behavior of the startup attempt was different this time, but still no POST (so, the CMOS was indeed cleared which I later confirmed at the end of this whole thing)
I finally noticed that the boot device and VGA LEDs were lit up on the motherboard
I replaced my 580 with my 470
My system worked just fine, but I had to install the driver on top of itself.
I shut down
I put the 580 back in
Now my system is back to normal with my 580 in it and it all works fine.

So after all of that, I discovered that all I had to do was put my 470 in, turn the system on, get a successful boot, shut down, and put the 580 back in.

I would love to hear from someone who has experienced this and knows what happened and how to prevent it from happening again.


----------



## Arthur Hucksake

Updated to 1805 and is it just me, or is GPU usage more stable?

Seems to have fixed a crash problem I was getting with Deus Ex HR.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14760010*
> Here are the things you might be able to disable. However, check with yourself because I am not the one using your computer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only you will know what can be disabled and what can't. Most of these are what I would disable because they are things I've already disabled because I am not using them:
> 
> Bluetooth Controller
> JMB Storage Controller
> JMB Storage OPROM
> Display OptionRom in POST
> Realtek LAN Controller
> Serial Port
> I think if you disable the JMB Storage Controller, then the POST time will be reduced right away.


Thanks bud.








Now it boots a lot faster and the logo appears only once.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14761187*
> Thanks bud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it boots a lot faster and the logo appears only once.


Oh cool. You're welcome!


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14760106*
> Anyway, my post above is not why I came to this club thread today. About an hour ago, the following happened which was very new to me. So, I'm hoping it has happened to someone else because I would love to learn why it happened and possibly how to prevent it from happening again.
> 
> I was watching a YouTube video
> The video reached its end
> So I got up to go to the bathroom
> I came back to find that the computer froze (for the first time ever)
> I pressed the Reset button on my case
> There was no POST at all (the monitor didn't even turn back on)
> I pressed Reset again
> Still no POST
> I turned the system off
> I turned the PSU off
> I pressed the power button on my case a few times to discharge the capacitors
> Tried again
> Still no POST
> I pressed the Clr CMOS button (I held it down)
> The behavior of the startup attempt was different this time, but still no POST (so, the CMOS was indeed cleared which I later confirmed at the end of this whole thing)
> I finally noticed that the boot device and VGA LEDs were lit up on the motherboard
> I replaced my 580 with my 470
> My system worked just fine, but I had to install the driver on top of itself.
> I shut down
> I put the 580 back in
> Now my system is back to normal with my 580 in it and it all works fine.
> 
> So after all of that, I discovered that all I had to do was put my 470 in, turn the system on, get a successful boot, shut down, and put the 580 back in.
> 
> I would love to hear from someone who has experienced this and knows what happened and how to prevent it from happening again.


Which video card driver version did the above occur on?


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14760106*
> Anyway, my post above is not why I came to this club thread today. About an hour ago, the following happened which was very new to me. So, I'm hoping it has happened to someone else because I would love to learn why it happened and possibly how to prevent it from happening again.
> 
> I was watching a YouTube video
> The video reached its end
> So I got up to go to the bathroom
> I came back to find that the computer froze (for the first time ever)
> I pressed the Reset button on my case
> There was no POST at all (the monitor didn't even turn back on)
> I pressed Reset again
> Still no POST
> I turned the system off
> I turned the PSU off
> I pressed the power button on my case a few times to discharge the capacitors
> Tried again
> Still no POST
> I pressed the Clr CMOS button (I held it down)
> The behavior of the startup attempt was different this time, but still no POST (so, the CMOS was indeed cleared which I later confirmed at the end of this whole thing)
> I finally noticed that the boot device and VGA LEDs were lit up on the motherboard
> I replaced my 580 with my 470
> My system worked just fine, but I had to install the driver on top of itself.
> I shut down
> I put the 580 back in
> Now my system is back to normal with my 580 in it and it all works fine.
> 
> So after all of that, I discovered that all I had to do was put my 470 in, turn the system on, get a successful boot, shut down, and put the 580 back in.
> 
> I would love to hear from someone who has experienced this and knows what happened and how to prevent it from happening again.


I'm gonna guess that the freeze followed by the improper windows shutdown probably corrupted your video drivers and when you put in the 470 it loaded with the basic windows drivers. The real question is why did your computer freeze when watching youtube? try updating flash? running a virus scanner? I honestly wouldn't worry about it if it's the first time ever freezing.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14760106*
> Anyway, my post above is not why I came to this club thread today. About an hour ago, the following happened which was very new to me. So, I'm hoping it has happened to someone else because I would love to learn why it happened and possibly how to prevent it from happening again.
> 
> I was watching a YouTube video
> The video reached its end
> So I got up to go to the bathroom
> I came back to find that the computer froze (for the first time ever)
> I pressed the Reset button on my case
> There was no POST at all (the monitor didn't even turn back on)
> I pressed Reset again
> Still no POST
> I turned the system off
> I turned the PSU off
> I pressed the power button on my case a few times to discharge the capacitors
> Tried again
> Still no POST
> I pressed the Clr CMOS button (I held it down)
> The behavior of the startup attempt was different this time, but still no POST (so, the CMOS was indeed cleared which I later confirmed at the end of this whole thing)
> I finally noticed that the boot device and VGA LEDs were lit up on the motherboard
> I replaced my 580 with my 470
> My system worked just fine, but I had to install the driver on top of itself.
> I shut down
> I put the 580 back in
> Now my system is back to normal with my 580 in it and it all works fine.
> 
> So after all of that, I discovered that all I had to do was put my 470 in, turn the system on, get a successful boot, shut down, and put the 580 back in.
> 
> I would love to hear from someone who has experienced this and knows what happened and how to prevent it from happening again.


This could have been a hardware problem. A contact connection in the slot could have been less conductive cause of dust or dirt on the card, perhaps sweat. If this has been the case, It could be, that it became worse through thermal expansion of the card under load, so that the piece of dirt or whatever got into the right position to break the connection. If only 1 pin is disconnected, this can cause a freeze.

When I first got my P8Z68 Deluxe, I had a broken PIN in my PCIEx16 Slot #2. There was no POST when I put a card in this one and left Slot #1 empty, which is possible on my replaced (RMA) specimen.

Before RMA I fixed the PIN myself provisionally, bending it into right position with a knife. First everything ran well, but then it apparently lost contact and I had a freeze and It did not post afterwards until i bent the pin back again.

The sad thing about this is, that it took me 3 days of afterwork freetime to discover the problem, that kept my SLI from running.









Unfortunately from my vendor I only got back a functional board (and a G19 Keyboard, CM 200mm fan, which were broken, too) , not my life


----------



## Stuuut

Hey guys i just build my computer it has a asus p8z68-v pro in it and it seems it auto overclocked my cpu i5-2500k to 4.3 ghz now i know it has an option to automatically find the best overclock but is that the switch on the mobo or is there also such a setting in the bios? Because currently i don't really need this overclock so i want to remove it.

Greetings,
Stuuut


----------



## Lucas Lamer

Has anybody written up an overclocking guide for Z68 yet? I have my sig rig running at stock. Would like to have a good OC template to use as a starting point. Does Z68 work pretty much the same as P67? Could I just use somebody's P67 overclock as a starting point?


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stuuut*


Hey guys i just build my computer it has a asus p8z68-v pro in it and it seems it auto overclocked my cpu i5-2500k to 4.3 ghz now i know it has an option to automatically find the best overclock but is that the switch on the mobo or is there also such a setting in the bios? Because currently i don't really need this overclock so i want to remove it.

Greetings,
Stuuut


Hey, I think you should switch off the TPU switch on your board, which is responsible for the auto-overclock. You find it right of the ram, above the main power connector. 
Could be that there is auto overclocking applied, if you selected the "ASUS Optimal" profile in Standard View of the BIOS. Make sure that "Normal Mode" is enabled, if you don't want to overclock. If this does not help, you could load optimal defaults in advanced mode.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lucas Lamer*


Has anybody written up an overclocking guide for Z68 yet? I have my sig rig running at stock.  Would like to have a good OC template to use as a starting point. Does Z68 work pretty much the same as P67? Could I just use somebody's P67 overclock as a starting point?


The most I've read till now confirms, that overclocking on P67 and Z68 is pretty similar. Bios config options are almost the same. If you are looking for a starting point for overclocking, you should try to use TwoCables' template, which you can find in one of the first posts of this club.


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


Hey, I think you should switch off the TPU switch on your board, which is responsible for the auto-overclock. You find it right of the ram, above the main power connector. 
Could be that there is auto overclocking applied, if you selected the "ASUS Optimal" profile in Standard View of the BIOS. Make sure that "Normal Mode" is enabled, if you don't want to overclock. If this does not help, you could load optimal defaults in advanced mode.


Hey thnx for the answer







first time i've build a system of my own









Anyways 1 more question its nothing to do with my mobo but anyways 
With an overclock to 4.3 ghz i'm getting temps of 59c thoes are pretty decent temps right? My vcore is 1.3511 somebody told me thats pretty high and generates alot of heat, is that true?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TFL Replica*


Which video card driver version did the above occur on?


It is the modified Quadro driver 275.36, but this does not feel driver-related to me. I've had absolutely zero computer problems since July 11th (the day I upgraded to Sandy Bridge), and I've had 275.36 ever since then.

I'm using 275.36 because I can.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


I'm gonna guess that the freeze followed by the improper windows shutdown probably corrupted your video drivers and when you put in the 470 it loaded with the basic windows drivers. The real question is why did your computer freeze when watching youtube? try updating flash? running a virus scanner? I honestly wouldn't worry about it if it's the first time ever freezing.


It did not freeze while watching a YouTube video. Like I said, I was watching a video, the video reached its end, I got up to go to the bathroom, I came back, and that is when I discovered my system locked up. When I got up to go to the bathroom, my system was not locked up. I moved the mouse a tiny bit to watch the next video but then decided that I would just go relieve myself instead.

So, the reason why I got up to go to the bathroom is that the video ended. My system did not freeze during the video, nor did it freeze as a result of the video ending. It locked up at some point after I walked away.

Regarding updating Flash: I don't need to because it is always up to date thanks to Firefox.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


This could have been a hardware problem. A contact connection in the slot could have been less conductive cause of dust or dirt on the card, perhaps sweat. If this has been the case, It could be, that it became worse through thermal expansion of the card under load, so that the piece of dirt or whatever got into the right position to break the connection. If only 1 pin is disconnected, this can cause a freeze.

When I first got my P8Z68 Deluxe, I had a broken PIN in my PCIEx16 Slot #2. There was no POST when I put a card in this one and left Slot #1 empty, which is possible on my replaced (RMA) specimen.

Before RMA I fixed the PIN myself provisionally, bending it into right position with a knife. First everything ran well, but then it apparently lost contact and I had a freeze and It did not post afterwards until i bent the pin back again.

The sad thing about this is, that it took me 3 days of afterwork freetime to discover the problem, that kept my SLI from running.









Unfortunately from my vendor I only got back a functional board (and a G19 Keyboard, CM 200mm fan, which were broken, too) , not my life










This makes the most sense to me. I mean, it makes me wonder now if all I *really* had to do was reseat my 580.


----------



## Constantine85

Add me - I just built my first rig and own an ASUS P8P67 Pro --- loove it!


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stuuut*


Hey thnx for the answer







first time i've build a system of my own









Anyways 1 more question its nothing to do with my mobo but anyways 
With an overclock to 4.3 ghz i'm getting temps of 59c thoes are pretty decent temps right? My vcore is 1.3511 somebody told me thats pretty high and generates alot of heat, is that true?


I am running at 1,392 (set through offset voltage +0,02) and my highest core temp (read from realtemp) is 80Â°C (I think it was a hot summer day with "cool" indoor temp of 25Â°C, could be lower if i test again with 20Â°C).
It depends on which temperature you mean. AI Suite in newest version for example shows the so called Tcase temperature, which may not exceed 72,6Â°C according to the intel product page. the tcase temperature is about 10Â°C lower than the core temps. I think you should monitor core temps and values about 75Â°C to 82Â°C (highest ever reached) during prime are ok, but opinions differ on that. Why I do not try to keep them lower ? It's because I want my system to be silent.
During gaming (for example witcher 2, crysis 2) core temps never exceed 63Â°C on my system.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


This makes the most sense to me. I mean, it makes me wonder now if all I *really* had to do was reseat my 580.


You would laugh. Years ago I had a K7 System (Athlon XP 3200+, ASUS board, ATI Radeon 9700Pro with 128MB). One day the system hang multiple times while benchmarking using 3Dmark05. The next day it did no more POST. I removed CPU, Graphics Card and RAM from the board, cleaned all contact surfaces using lighter fuel and put them back onto the board. After this the system ran until I got it replaced (for about 1 additional year, would have ran much longer i suppose).


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


I am running at 1,392 (set through offset voltage +0,02) and my highest core temp (read from realtemp) is 80Â°C (I think it was a hot summer day with "cool" indoor temp of 25Â°C, could be lower if i test again with 20Â°C).
It depends on which temperature you mean. AI Suite in newest version for example shows the so called Tcase temperature, which may not exceed 72,6Â°C according to the intel product page. the tcase temperature is about 10Â°C lower than the core temps. I think you should monitor core temps and values about 75Â°C to 82Â°C (highest ever reached) during prime are ok, but opinions differ on that. Why I do not try to keep them lower ? It's because I want my system to be silent.
During gaming (for example witcher 2, crysis 2) core temps never exceed 63Â°C on my system.


Thoes are from Coretemp temperatures during Prime95 so i guess i'm alright.
I also played The Witcher 2 yesterday with high settings and temps didn't go above mid 40's

Anyways can i join the club??


----------



## ferencziffra

I'm glad to announce that my first build is complete, up and working like a charm. Specs in sig.







)


----------



## SixSide

Joinin da club boys.

Specs in sig, and prrof in my build log ^^


----------



## dbarry

The USB3 sockets attached to the 20 pin motherboard header appear to be dead. Power is there but I can't get anything to work from these sockets - USB stick, mouse, - nothing.

I'm aware that the third PCI-E slot can affect these ports but I've only got one graphics card installed, in the first slot.

It could be the adaptor provided with the motherboard or the motherboard itself. Before I remove it to check the connections, can anyone tell me if I'm missing something obvious in the BIOS or anywhere else please?

Does Device Manager look OK?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbarry;14784953*
> The USB3 sockets attached to the 20 pin motherboard header appear to be dead. Power is there but I can't get anything to work from these sockets - USB stick, mouse, - nothing.
> 
> I'm aware that the third PCI-E slot can affect these ports but I've only got one graphics card installed, in the first slot.
> 
> It could be the adaptor provided with the motherboard or the motherboard itself. Before I remove it to check the connections, can anyone tell me if I'm missing something obvious in the BIOS or anywhere else please?
> 
> Does Device Manager look OK?


Check this picture out. You should have USB 3 controller enabled and check if You have drivers installed for it.
Just checked you're board I guess that USB 3 Drivers installs with chipset update.
As for that Device manager looks almost the same except I don't have that first thingy in the list.
So I'm probably guessing it's just not enabled.


----------



## Leyth

Hey guys, I finally got my build together and am working on overclocking. I haven't overclocked in some time so things have changed a good bit. The turbo thing has thrown me off a good bit so I've been trying to stick closely to the guides. I used the settings provided in the original post. These settings have me at 4.8ghz at load with no issues with prime95. However, I've noticed that it fluctuates to the idle speed when I don't want it to.

Is there anyway to keep it at max speed? Maybe only when I'm gaming? Thanks ahead for your help.

Ai Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 48
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Auto


----------



## munaim1

Just thought I'd share with your guys:
Quote:


> ****IMPORTANT TIPS AND FINDINGS****
> 
> *Random / Idle BSODS & Tips*
> 
> 
> **If your sandybridge is giving you problems under light load or idle, then try disabling c3/c6, this usually applies to offset users, manual voltage users should try running C3 and C6 report on Auto.
> 
> A handful of users' have reported that even after priming 12hrs+ they have recieved random bsods, *this does not really indicate that it's unstable*.
> 
> The error codes are not 100% and are not ALWAYS correct, with that said, stress testing in your main OS is not a good idea. If possible get yourself a spare HDD and load up windows and run all your stress testing on that. The idea of having another HDD is so that when your running your stress testing, background processes are at a minimum and should help indicate the main source of bsods, disabling the internet connection is also a good idea, same with any type of antivirus. Just remember too many bsods in a OS can cause the OS to become unstable ie corrupted file systems etc. With that said, if you pass 12hrs once you should be able to pass again, however, this does not mean go OCD stress testing.
> 
> *In a situation where you are getting random bsods try the following:*
> 
> Try running C3 and C6 on AUTO with C1E and EIST Enabled.
> 
> Clear CMOS (quick way - take the baterry out), load saved stable overclock, fresh windows install with pretty much nothing installed, no internet connection, nothing just a prime blend run. With minimum processes running and windows services, it would ba clear indication of stability without other 'things' such as a driver error, windows update, internet connection causing bsod.
> 
> You could try the above or even a BIOS update, I stress that before you update, run stock setttings and then update the BIOS *(**Don't update the BIOS on an overclock setting, you could risk bricking the mobo*)
> 
> Try Enabling all power saving features - C1E, EIST C3 and C6.
> 
> Many have found that enabling SPREAD SPECTRUM reduces the voltage fluctuation.
> 
> Try using Manual voltage instead of Offset.
> 
> Go to control Panel/hardware and sound/power options and select High performance Mode.
> 
> Take the RAM out of the equation, underclock it if you have to and see whether or not it continues.
> 
> Try a fresh OS install on a spare HDD or something, remember as explained before, *too many bsods in the os = corrupt file system = unstable OS*
> 
> IF you have an SSD Read THIS, it might help solve your problems.
> 
> Run Prime on it's own and leave it!!!!
> 
> Flash video bsod/freezing? Read THIS (Disable Hardware Acceleration)
> 
> Hopefully some of these TIPS could help you against the dreaded IDLE/RANDOM BSOD and get your CPU stable. I'll add some more TIPS along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *IMPORTANT FINDINGS ABOUT SANDYBRIDGE*
> 
> *PLL Voltage etc - READ THIS & THIS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14786120*
> Just thought I'd let you guys know, I have been testing the PLL voltage further and found something quite amazing. With my current stable settings including the PLL voltage around 1.7v was stable as you can see from my submission to the club. For the last 10days or so I tried messing around with the PLL, I dropped it down to 1.4v and started going up, I kept on receiving the Error 124 and no boot up until I reached 1.55v and it passed both the 1344 and 1792 test along with a few hours of prime blend. My sweet spot is at 1.55v.
Click to expand...

*Slimex*, your issue with the video freeze could be down to the hardware acceleration. Under the random / idle BSOD & TIPS, check the last tip.


----------



## dlerch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyth;14788273*
> However, I've noticed that it fluctuates to the idle speed when I don't want it to.
> 
> Is there anyway to keep it at max speed? Maybe only when I'm gaming? Thanks ahead for your help.


As long as you are doing a cpu hungry task it will go to your OC setting. Do you really need a full load when you are afk? I wouldn't stress over it.


----------



## Leyth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlerch;14790453*
> As long as you are doing a cpu hungry task it will go to your OC setting. Do you really need a full load when you are afk? I wouldn't stress over it.


Game has just been stuttering a bit during league of legends. It can't be that CPU hungry, i just assumed that it was the CPU hopping in and out of turbo mode. What do you think?


----------



## k_t_tallica

Hi,everyone.

First, I'm Japanese.
So,My english is not good. Sorry

I built a PC one month ago.
Except for one point, PC is stable.
My PC fails to return from hibernation.
If you try to return from hibernation, the system does not start correctly.

To hibernate in the OS.
↓
Power off the system.
↓
Press the power button, try to boot the system.
↓
*****
The fan will start.
↓
Lights in order of CPU LED → DRAM LED.
↓
After off the DRAM LED, the CPU LED lights momentarily.
↓
The system is powered off.
*****
↓
The system will reboot and repeat inside *****.
Inside * is about 1 second.

I tried to disable Internal PLL Overvoltage.
But, the problem is not resolved.
What should I do?

Thank you for reading!


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leyth;14788273*
> Hey guys, I finally got my build together and am working on overclocking. I haven't overclocked in some time so things have changed a good bit. The turbo thing has thrown me off a good bit so I've been trying to stick closely to the guides. I used the settings provided in the original post. These settings have me at 4.8ghz at load with no issues with prime95. However, I've noticed that it fluctuates to the idle speed when I don't want it to.
> 
> Is there anyway to keep it at max speed? Maybe only when I'm gaming? Thanks ahead for your help.
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
> Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
> DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
> DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto


I encountered exactly the same issue.

Try this settings:

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
Long Duration Maintained: 32s

What RAM do you have ? Is it rated at 1,65V ? I think I have been the only one with this problem so far, because no one uses RAM with that high voltage. Turbo mode switched off every 2 minutes for about 30 sec and then got back on everytime I tested with Prime. With the new settings it ran for 17h+ without this issue.

*Edit: Please Monitor core temps under load when using this setting. I do not think that they will be higher, but you should assure yourself. I would not like to have advised you to fry your CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14789688*
> 
> *Slimex*, your issue with the video freeze could be down to the hardware acceleration. Under the random / idle BSOD & TIPS, check the last tip.


I think TwoCables got the issue. On my system, I do not have this problem.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k_t_tallica;14793377*
> Hi,everyone.
> 
> First, I'm Japanese.
> So,My english is not good. Sorry
> 
> I built a PC one month ago.
> Except for one point, PC is stable.
> My PC fails to return from hibernation.
> If you try to return from hibernation, the system does not start correctly.
> 
> To hibernate in the OS.
> ↓
> Power off the system.
> ↓
> Press the power button, try to boot the system.
> ↓
> *****
> The fan will start.
> ↓
> Lights in order of CPU LED → DRAM LED.
> ↓
> After off the DRAM LED, the CPU LED lights momentarily.
> ↓
> The system is powered off.
> *****
> ↓
> The system will reboot and repeat inside *****.
> Inside * is about 1 second.
> 
> I tried to disable Internal PLL Overvoltage.
> But, the problem is not resolved.
> What should I do?
> 
> Thank you for reading!


Hi,

Welcome to overclock.net. Do not worry about your English, I think there are many people here, who's native language is not english.

I am encountering a pretty similar problem. But my system will wake up to the hibernated state after a cold boot.

When I load the BIOS' optimal defaults the issue disappears. Unfortunately, my overclocking settings are not applied then, so I do not use hibernate since then. Perhaps I will investigate, which settings are responsible for that, soon.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Agreed with the above. Sadly, its just an odd bug that we've got, mine does the same thing. My best advice, disable hibernation and sleep modes. If you want to turn your computer off...use Shut Down instead. It's not like its really going to kill you waiting that extra 20 seconds to boot up.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Curious here (didn't edit my previous post because this is a different subject)....

What's the MAXIMUM safe voltage to use for a 24/7 stable rig? I'm hoping to shoot for 5GHz, but it'll take probably 1.52v or a little more to do so. Is that safe when using offset? What about if I plan to fold nearly 24/7 as well?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14794897*
> Curious here (didn't edit my previous post because this is a different subject)....
> 
> What's the MAXIMUM safe voltage to use for a 24/7 stable rig? I'm hoping to shoot for 5GHz, but it'll take probably 1.52v or a little more to do so. Is that safe when using offset? What about if I plan to fold nearly 24/7 as well?


J.J (Juan Jose from ASUS) says 1.425v is the max safe for 24/7, I believe, in the youtube video posted in first post of this Club





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vBN-cBPs98&feature=player_embedded[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14794937*
> J.J (Juan Jose from ASUS) says 1.425v is the max safe for 24/7, I believe, in the youtube video posted in first post of this Club


Ouch...I'm already over that. Looks like I'm going to have to stay at around 4.8-4.9 then.







Even if my temps are amazing...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14794954*
> Ouch...I'm already over that. Looks like I'm going to have to stay at around 4.8-4.9 then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if my temps are amazing...


There are people who have been running 1.5v + for months, without issue. However, don't know If these people fold 24/7. That would put it under strain for 24/7.


----------



## k_t_tallica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14794075*
> Hi,
> 
> Welcome to overclock.net. Do not worry about your English, I think there are many people here, who's native language is not english.
> 
> I am encountering a pretty similar problem. But my system will wake up to the hibernated state after a cold boot.
> 
> When I load the BIOS' optimal defaults the issue disappears. Unfortunately, my overclocking settings are not applied then, so I do not use hibernate since then. Perhaps I will investigate, which settings are responsible for that, soon.


Thank you for reply.

After the problem occurs, If I cut the main power system will not start properly.
After turning on power again and system start, system displays a message "Over Clocking Failed!!".
After displaying the BIOS setting screen by pressing F1, the system resumes from hibernation.

Unfortunately, the problem is not solved by loading optimal defaults.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k_t_tallica;14795522*
> Thank you for reply.
> 
> After the problem occurs, If I cut the main power system will not start properly.
> After turning on power again and system start, system displays a message "Over Clocking Failed!!".
> After displaying the BIOS setting screen by pressing F1, the system resumes from hibernation.
> 
> Unfortunately, the problem is not solved by loading optimal defaults.


Could be, that disabling Internal PLL Overvoltage causes the Overclocking Failed message, but I am not really sure. You should test stability using prime95's blend test for 12h+, to assure, that your OC is stable.

But I also saw this screen, perhaps even after trying to hibernate (Man, I should write a journal to remember such things







.) and my Prime test ran 17h+ without stopped workers.


----------



## eternal7trance

Basically, hibernate and sleep mode are usually terrible to use. If you are having a problem with them, it's best to just not use them.


----------



## Nethermir

quick question guys, asus p8p67 (rev 3.0) does not support sli right?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14797444*
> quick question guys, asus p8p67 (rev 3.0) does not support sli right?


Correct


----------



## k_t_tallica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14796188*
> Could be, that disabling Internal PLL Overvoltage causes the Overclocking Failed message, but I am not really sure. You should test stability using prime95's blend test for 12h+, to assure, that your OC is stable.
> 
> But I also saw this screen, perhaps even after trying to hibernate (Man, I should write a journal to remember such things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .) and my Prime test ran 17h+ without stopped workers.


My PC has passed the test of Prime95 for 24 hours.
My CPU clock is 3.7GHz. So,That is the only turbo boost.

When I change Memory Frequency settings [Auto] → [DDR3-1333MHz],PC has developed the same symptoms after Save&Reset.
The RAM may have been related.
But,My RAM passed Windows RAM Check. So,I'm going to run the Memtest85+


----------



## Sevens

Hello,
Is it dangerous to plug 3 fans cm megaflow 200mm on 1 fan header ?
I've seen somewhere that the fan header can handle 1A 12w 
1 fan = 0.16 A (Max 0.28 A) 3.36 W.
Its kinda close so im not sure if its safe and also i'm not sure if all the fan header can handle 1A.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevens*


Hello,
Is it dangerous to plug 3 fans cm megaflow 200mm on 1 fan header ?
I've seen somewhere that the fan header can handle 1A 12w 
1 fan = 0.16 A (Max 0.28 A) 3.36 W.
Its kinda close so im not sure if its safe and also i'm not sure if all the fan header can handle 1A.


Not sure if I understand you correctly but I wouldn't plug 3 fans on one 3pin fan header. I have pluged two fans to one header and they where alright. So my suggestion you can plug two to one and another to another or use a 3pin to molex adapter to connect all those fans.


----------



## Sevens

Yes you got it correctly








Well thanks for your answer,i guess i will play it safe with two fans on one fan header.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevens*


Hello,
Is it dangerous to plug 3 fans cm megaflow 200mm on 1 fan header ?
I've seen somewhere that the fan header can handle 1A 12w 
1 fan = 0.16 A (Max 0.28 A) 3.36 W.
Its kinda close so im not sure if its safe and also i'm not sure if all the fan header can handle 1A.


Yes, you can run 3 of THOSE fans safely off any one fan header. Just remember though, that the power will be split up between the 3 fans.

I've got 2 Delta's off my CPU fan header (1.0a), and they're 0.9a fans each.


----------



## Sevens

ok thanks for your feedback


----------



## gumby510

I have a p67 deluxe model, I just did a simple auto tune overclock of 4.3gz a couple days ago. I have been getting this +5 voltage warning as shown below. What does that mean and should I be concerned? Since I went the noob route by using the software how do I change it back? I want to learn and do it the right way in the bios. Also I have the coolest CPU in history as it shows I had a recorded Negative 122c









[08/31/2011 at 03:58 am] MotherBoard -60.0 Abnormal
[08/31/2011 at 05:45 am] CPU -63.0 Abnormal
[08/31/2011 at 05:46 am] CPU 25.0 Normal
[08/31/2011 at 08:57 am] MotherBoard -122.0 Abnormal
[08/31/2011 at 08:57 am] MotherBoard 33.0 Normal
[08/31/2011 at 03:59 pm] MotherBoard -128.0 Abnormal
[08/31/2011 at 03:59 pm] MotherBoard 33.0 Normal
[08/31/2011 at 08:48 pm] +5V 1.160 Abnormal
[08/31/2011 at 08:49 pm] +5V 5.200 Normal
[09/02/2011 at 06:18 am] Power fan 1 65444 Normal
[09/02/2011 at 10:20 am] Power fan 1 32518 Normal
[09/02/2011 at 06:19 pm] +5V 8.280 Abnormal
[09/02/2011 at 06:19 pm] +5V 5.160 Normal


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumby510;14803044*
> I have a p67 deluxe model, I just did a simple auto tune overclock of 4.3gz a couple days ago. I have been getting this +5 voltage warning as shown below. What does that mean and should I be concerned? Since I went the noob route by using the software how do I change it back? I want to learn and do it the right way in the bios. Also I have the coolest CPU in history as it shows I had a recorded Negative 122c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [08/31/2011 at 03:58 am] MotherBoard -60.0 Abnormal
> [08/31/2011 at 05:45 am] CPU -63.0 Abnormal
> [08/31/2011 at 05:46 am] CPU 25.0 Normal
> [08/31/2011 at 08:57 am] MotherBoard -122.0 Abnormal
> [08/31/2011 at 08:57 am] MotherBoard 33.0 Normal
> [08/31/2011 at 03:59 pm] MotherBoard -128.0 Abnormal
> [08/31/2011 at 03:59 pm] MotherBoard 33.0 Normal
> [08/31/2011 at 08:48 pm] +5V 1.160 Abnormal
> [08/31/2011 at 08:49 pm] +5V 5.200 Normal
> [09/02/2011 at 06:18 am] Power fan 1 65444 Normal
> [09/02/2011 at 10:20 am] Power fan 1 32518 Normal
> [09/02/2011 at 06:19 pm] +5V 8.280 Abnormal
> [09/02/2011 at 06:19 pm] +5V 5.160 Normal


Software can't be trusted. I mean, if your +5V were 1.160V, then your system wouldn't even be able to turn on. The same is true if it were 8.280V. So, I recommend ignoring it.









I also recommend uninstalling Ai Suite II and just do all of your overclocking in the UEFI. However, if you want to leave Ai Suite II installed but just make it stop starting with Windows, then follow the instructions below. Just remember that this will mean that you can no longer use it to make permanent changes because Ai Suite II applies all of your settings at Startup. To see what I mean, make a change in Ai Suite II and then look for the change in the UEFI: it won't be there.

So in other words, AI Suite II is very much like video card overclocking software: the changes are always (and only) applied every time Windows launches the software during startup.

After following these instructions, launching Ai Suite II will always be on *your* terms.

Open Task Scheduler (in Vista and 7, open the Start Menu, type *task scheduler*, and then press Enter)
On the far left side, expand *Task Scheduler Library*
Select "ASUS"
In the middle, you'll see two Tasks named *"*ASUS AI Suite II Execute", and "ASUS DigiVRM Help"
Right-click them and choose "Disable" (you can select both by holding down either Shift or Ctrl while selecting)
Close Task Manager
Now AI Suite II will no longer start with Windows! The best part is that AI Suite II will *not* automatically undo the changes you made in Task Scheduler when you open it, so now it's just like any _other_ program. You can also Shut Down or Restart while AI Suite II is running, and it will still *not* cause it to start with Windows.









However, there are still a bunch of processes that start with Windows and run in the background! Fortunately, you can change their behavior so that they don't start until you launch AI Suite II. Here's how:

Open Services.msc (open the Start Menu, type *services.msc*, and then press Enter)
Look for the following services:
"ASUS Com Service"
"ASUS HM Com Service"
"ASUS System Control Service"

Change *both* "ASUS Com Service" and "ASUS HM Com Service" to Manual.
Change "ASUS System Control Service" to *Disabed*.
So now when you open AI Suite II, it will start both "ASUS Com Service" and "ASUS HM Com Service". If these were set to Disabled, then you'd get an error.









*Note:* every single process that gets started by these two services will continue running even after completely exiting AI Suite II. So if you wanted to be in complete control and always stop them right after exiting AI Suite II, then go into Services.msc, right-click the two services we set to "manual", and then choose "Stop" right after exiting AI Suite II.


----------



## gumby510

Thanks Mr Cable will do! I only really need the software to control my fans until I get a controller installed. I was just messing around with the overclock part of it cause I got a new cooler. What does the 5 volt thing refer to anyway? When I saw neg 122c I knew that was BS. Just didn't know what the +5v was.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumby510;14803942*
> Thanks Mr Cable will do! I only really need the software to control my fans until I get a controller installed. I was just messing around with the overclock part of it cause I got a new cooler. What does the 5 volt thing refer to anyway? When I saw neg 122c I knew that was BS. Just didn't know what the +5v was.


You're welcome!

I don't know how to put it in my own words, so I'll just post this:

http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/722251-psu-voltages.html

Excerpt:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus2129;9200914*
> *
> +5V*
> *Nominal value:* 5.00V
> *Allowed voltage variation:* +/-5%, 4.75V - 5.25V
> *Preferred voltage variation:* +/-3%, 4.85V - 5.15V
> *Allowed ripple:* <50mV
> *Preferred ripple:* <30mV
> *Info:* The +5V rail used to be the primary power source, but has since fallen out of major use. Even though it isn't a major power source, many of the things it powers are vital, so it must be kept tightly regulated. It also powers external USB devices like keyboards and flash drives and such.
> *It powers:*
> Some motherboard chipsets
> Hard drive circuitry
> Optical drive circuitry
> Some fans
> Some PCI cards
> USB devices
> 
> *Further Reading*


----------



## gumby510

One last noob question for the night, I disabled everything thanks for that btw. How do I go back to stock with no overclock? Do I have to go into the bios and reset everything to default and restart? They have a profile setting that supposed to save what ever clock speed you set it at but it's a POS and doesn't work lol. My goal is to just bump my speed up to a 4.3 and I will be happy.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumby510;14804290*
> One last noob question for the night, I disabled everything thanks for that btw. How do I go back to stock with no overclock? Do I have to go into the bios and reset everything to default and restart? They have a profile setting that supposed to save what ever clock speed you set it at but it's a POS and doesn't work lol. My goal is to just bump my speed up to a 4.3 and I will be happy.


Before we revert back to stock, I have one question: what do you mean that the profile saving feature doesn't work? What happens when you try to use it, and what are the exact steps you're taking when you to try to use it?


----------



## munaim1

Just thought I'd share with your guys:
Quote:


> ****IMPORTANT TIPS AND FINDINGS****
> 
> *Random / Idle BSODS & Tips*
> 
> 
> **If your sandybridge is giving you problems under light load or idle, then try disabling c3/c6, this usually applies to offset users, manual voltage users should try running C3 and C6 report on Auto.
> 
> A handful of users' have reported that even after priming 12hrs+ they have recieved random bsods, *this does not really indicate that it's unstable*.
> 
> The error codes are not 100% and are not ALWAYS correct, with that said, stress testing in your main OS is not a good idea. If possible get yourself a spare HDD and load up windows and run all your stress testing on that. The idea of having another HDD is so that when your running your stress testing, background processes are at a minimum and should help indicate the main source of bsods, disabling the internet connection is also a good idea, same with any type of antivirus. Just remember too many bsods in a OS can cause the OS to become unstable ie corrupted file systems etc. With that said, if you pass 12hrs once you should be able to pass again, however, this does not mean go OCD stress testing.
> 
> *In a situation where you are getting random bsods try the following:*
> 
> Try running C3 and C6 on AUTO with C1E and EIST Enabled.
> 
> Clear CMOS (quick way - take the baterry out), load saved stable overclock, fresh windows install with pretty much nothing installed, no internet connection, nothing just a prime blend run. With minimum processes running and windows services, it would ba clear indication of stability without other 'things' such as a driver error, windows update, internet connection causing bsod.
> 
> You could try the above or even a BIOS update, I stress that before you update, run stock setttings and then update the BIOS *(**Don't update the BIOS on an overclock setting, you could risk bricking the mobo*)
> 
> Try Enabling all power saving features - C1E, EIST C3 and C6.
> 
> Many have found that enabling SPREAD SPECTRUM reduces the voltage fluctuation.
> 
> Try using Manual voltage instead of Offset.
> 
> Go to control Panel/hardware and sound/power options and select High performance Mode.
> 
> Take the RAM out of the equation, underclock it if you have to and see whether or not it continues.
> 
> Try a fresh OS install on a spare HDD or something, remember as explained before, *too many bsods in the os = corrupt file system = unstable OS*
> 
> IF you have an SSD Read THIS, it might help solve your problems.
> 
> Run Prime on it's own and leave it!!!!
> 
> Flash video bsod/freezing? Read THIS (Disable Hardware Acceleration)
> 
> Hopefully some of these TIPS could help you against the dreaded IDLE/RANDOM BSOD and get your CPU stable. I'll add some more TIPS along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *IMPORTANT FINDINGS ABOUT SANDYBRIDGE*
> 
> *PLL Voltage etc - READ THIS & THIS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14786120*
> Just thought I'd let you guys know, I have been testing the PLL voltage further and found something quite amazing. With my current stable settings including the PLL voltage around 1.7v was stable as you can see from my submission to the club. For the last 10days or so I tried messing around with the PLL, I dropped it down to 1.4v and started going up, I kept on receiving the Error 124 and no boot up until I reached 1.55v and it passed both the 1344 and 1792 test along with a few hours of prime blend. My sweet spot is at 1.55v.
Click to expand...


----------



## chillidog

HI ALL
forgive me if i have posted this in the wrong section,but the story go's this way.
got an asus p8z68-v pro and all the bits in my sig
now if i use the a1 suit 11 auto clock on fast i get around 4.3/4.4 inwhich is quite good.now using the extreme on autoclock i get 4.6 max inwhich is great
now the problem is i can run the pc all day playing games [email protected] and the temps seem to be ok.
But upon turning the pc on the next day i have lost the 4.6 and it reverts to 4.2
Now my understanding if you use the a1 suite 11 and do a autoclock it would save the settings.(if i misunderstand this pls tell me)but it does not make any difference wot i do. it all ways reverts back around the 4.2.
now my way of thinking if i could manual oc it this would stop this from happening.
BUT the only thing stoping me of doing this is i got no clue on o/cing manual
(ence autoclock)
so if anyone could help us to manual oc would be great

regards


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14808788*
> HI ALL
> forgive me if i have posted this in the wrong section,but the story go's this way.
> got an asus p8z68-v pro and all the bits in my sig
> now if i use the a1 suit 11 auto clock on fast i get around 4.3/4.4 inwhich is quite good.now using the extreme on autoclock i get 4.6 max inwhich is great
> now the problem is i can run the pc all day playing games [email protected] and the temps seem to be ok.
> But upon turning the pc on the next day i have lost the 4.6 and it reverts to 4.2
> Now my understanding if you use the a1 suite 11 and do a autoclock it would save the settings.(if i misunderstand this pls tell me)but it does not make any difference wot i do. it all ways reverts back around the 4.2.
> now my way of thinking if i could manual oc it this would stop this from happening.
> BUT the only thing stoping me of doing this is i got no clue on o/cing manual
> (ence autoclock)
> so if anyone could help us to manual oc would be great
> 
> regards


Before I start, it's "Ai Suite II" not "A1 Suite 11". It means "Artificial Intelligence Suite 2". ASUS is just trying to sound cool.

Anyway, here's something I discovered about Ai Suite II: it seems useless for true overclockers. The changes you make do not get applied to the UEFI. Instead, the software applies its settings during Windows startup in the exact same way video card overclocking software does (like MSI Afterburner). Therefore, I recommend uninstalling it and doing all of your overclocking directly in the UEFI itself. That way your changes will be REAL.


----------



## chillidog

thx for your reply
the a1 was a typing mistake but anyway.
by overclocking directly in the UEFI itself this would be doing it manually
and this is where i be stuck and i be just twiggleing my thumbs and banging my head against the wall.am ok building a pc up but thats it as i said my knowlege off oc is zero adjusting this and that


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14809016*
> thx for your reply
> the a1 was a typing mistake but anyway.
> by overclocking directly in the UEFI itself this would be doing it manually
> and this is where i be stuck and i be just twiggleing my thumbs and banging my head against the wall.am ok building a pc up but thats it as i said my knowlege off oc is zero adjusting this and that


Yeah, well you are on Overclock.net, you own one of the P8Z68 boards, and you're in the right thread for it.







So before you know it, you'll know so much that you'll be helping others and they will think you're an expert.







All you have to do is keep asking for help: it doesn't matter what your question is, just ask (any time, day or night).

Normally, I could help but I don't have enough time. I'm only here to check in and then I'm gonna be logged out for a while.


----------



## christophermcne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14808788*
> HI ALL
> forgive me if i have posted this in the wrong section,but the story go's this way.
> got an asus p8z68-v pro and all the bits in my sig
> now if i use the a1 suit 11 auto clock on fast i get around 4.3/4.4 inwhich is quite good.now using the extreme on autoclock i get 4.6 max inwhich is great
> now the problem is i can run the pc all day playing games [email protected] and the temps seem to be ok.
> But upon turning the pc on the next day i have lost the 4.6 and it reverts to 4.2
> Now my understanding if you use the a1 suite 11 and do a autoclock it would save the settings.(if i misunderstand this pls tell me)but it does not make any difference wot i do. it all ways reverts back around the 4.2.
> now my way of thinking if i could manual oc it this would stop this from happening.
> BUT the only thing stoping me of doing this is i got no clue on o/cing manual
> (ence autoclock)
> so if anyone could help us to manual oc would be great
> 
> regards


Im using that mobo's built in oc utility in the bios, and i have a stable and cool 4.4ghz. You might check that out before you start trying to oc manually.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


----------



## VaporXtreme

2 Cables above you stated the ppl voltage problem and fix... Is this a problem with all p67 and z68 boards is p67 and z68 just a utter mess?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VaporXtreme;14809591*
> 2 Cables above you stated the ppl voltage problem and fix... Is this a problem with all p67 and z68 boards is p67 and z68 just a utter mess?


I don't know.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevens;14800083*
> Hello,
> Is it dangerous to plug 3 fans cm megaflow 200mm on 1 fan header ?
> I've seen somewhere that the fan header can handle 1A 12w
> 1 fan = 0.16 A (Max 0.28 A) 3.36 W.
> Its kinda close so im not sure if its safe and also i'm not sure if all the fan header can handle 1A.


I had 3 of those fans running properly at one of the boards 3-pin fan headers (could've been CHA2), but I didn't feel safe with that for 24/7, so I connected them to a Scythe Kaze Server fan controller after only 1h. 2 of them are still connected parallel on one header, the other one is connected directly to a separate header now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumby510;14803942*
> Thanks Mr Cable will do! I only really need the software to control my fans until I get a controller installed. I was just messing around with the overclock part of it cause I got a new cooler. What does the 5 volt thing refer to anyway? When I saw neg 122c I knew that was BS. Just didn't know what the +5v was.


I have AI Suite still running cause of the CPU fan control and sometimes I use it for long time monitoring of CPU voltage and Tcase temperature. If you do not change any of the settings for example in the TPU section, it will not apply any settings and those from the UEFI stay applied. Or let's explain it another way: I did not recognize it to apply any settings over those configured in the UEFI.

I had voltage warnings like this 2 times, I think both was the 5V, being at 10+ or so. Another time my Case Temp reading went up to 128°C (from 37°C) and stayed there until reboot. I did not pay much attention to this as this could not have been real.


----------



## VaporXtreme

Two cables because im trying to decide what mobo to get AsRock z68 Fatal1ty Pro or Asus P6Z68-V Pro so im trying to choose the best


----------



## grunion

Up and running on the new proc and new board.

A2 is dead


----------



## VaporXtreme

Grunion what was your original board and processor and whats your new setup same thing


----------



## grunion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *VaporXtreme*


Grunion what was your original board and processor and whats your new setup same thing



Same, 2500k/P67 Pro









Don't know why I keep submitting myself to this torture.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *VaporXtreme*


Two cables because im trying to decide what mobo to get AsRock z68 Fatal1ty Pro or Asus P6Z68-V Pro so im trying to choose the best


Well, it's not a "problem" per se. It's just the way it is for some of us (again, it's not a problem at all).

I think it makes it a little more fun because it introduces another opportunity to do some tweaking which means it's another excuse to play with this awesome toy.


----------



## Robilar

My board is getting a little cramped...


----------



## grunion

Purrrty

And A1 just died, I love Asooooooose!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## turrican9

*Robilar*

That is one nice build


----------



## VaporXtreme

grunion

i love asus i mean i had problems in the past but for some reason there support is really good most of the time and they make nice products

I got my Blue build coming up cant wait

Robilar How is the H80 i was looking to get one. How much you oc and hows the temps


----------



## chillidog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


thx for your reply
the a1 was a typing mistake but anyway.
by overclocking directly in the UEFI itself this would be doing it manually
and this is where i be stuck and i be just twiggleing my thumbs and banging my head against the wall.am ok building a pc up but thats it as i said my knowlege off oc is zero adjusting this and that


BUMP


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


BUMP










You could try TwoCables' settings. You find them in one of the first posts of this club. After this, you should get Prime95 and make a torture test, best you choose blend with 4 threads. If this test runs without a stopping worker for 12h+, then consider your settings stable. You should do the test while not using the pc for other things, for example overnight.

You should also get real temp to monitor your core temps. If these are under 80Â°C all the time, that's ok, but there are several different opinions about highest temps.

If Windows will not boot, then try enabling Internal PLL Overvoltage

If it is not stable, you can try higher offset voltage (only get 1 step up and test afterwards, cause this will increase vcore and temps under load)

Another possibility to maintain a lower vcore ist to increase vccio voltage, but do not go higher than 1.15V please or 1.20 at maximum.

Last but not least, please do not change any overclocking related settings in ASUS' AI Suite, as they are applied during system startup and are not saved to your UEFI.

But best you first just try TwoCables' template and write about your prime results here to receive further help.


----------



## grunion

Well I went and grabbed another board, this one works.

New proc runs cooler, but needs more voltage.


----------



## gumby510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14804319*
> Before we revert back to stock, I have one question: what do you mean that the profile saving feature doesn't work? What happens when you try to use it, and what are the exact steps you're taking when you to try to use it?


Nothing happens when I click it I set up a stock one and saved one for the overclock I'm at now.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumby510;14813866*
> Nothing happens when I click it I set up a stock one and saved one for the overclock I'm at now.


Oh. Ai Suite II. Yeah, I hate to say it but I recommend uninstalling it and just relying entirely on the UEFI itself.

I've spent a great deal of time trying to get Ai Suite II to work for me in the same way that it works for Juan Jose at ASUS (he is their Senior Technical Marketing Director), but it keeps failing me. It looks like it's failing you too.

Besides, I hate the idea of this software because it works just like video overclocking software: it applies all of your setting during Windows startup. This means that none of your changes are permanently applied to the UEFI; instead, they just get applied when Windows loads Ai Suite II during Windows startup.

Therefore, I think Ai Suite II should only be used by people who are all on their own (that is, people who are *not* a member of Overclock.net or some other popular overclocking message board).


----------



## chillidog

ok guys did a little messing around re did the ai suite 11 auto clock on extreme. i let it run right through it did stop @ 4.7 and rebooted and then carry on oc but this time it was adjusting bclk only and it finished @4657mhz
something did feel a bit better than last time i got4.6
any way i rebooted into the bios and the setting was there @4.6 so i saved and exit.i checked in the ai suite again and the oc is still there so i rebooted again and checked and still got 4.6.but on previous times it allways reverted back to 4.2 ,so it seem my look was in so i did 2 prime95 test. the first one seem to go ok untill worker 3 [email protected] 9 but the other workers was ok.
then i rerun prime again and this time worker went straight through untill it stop at worker 18.so i presuming this is down to the temp on that core as it shows in realtemp to be hotest.

check it out

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb354/chillidog1/stresstest2.jpg

does 75 seem to hot or is that ok. i know i ran prime for around 20 mins.
but i read somewhere if you run prime95 more than 10 mins without shut down the oc would be ok .not sure if thats right or wrong?

but am going to see how long this auto oc last for before i be asking for manual oc
regards


----------



## billtetley

I think thats a bit hot. your on stock cooling right?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billtetley;14816963*
> I think thats a bit hot. your on stock cooling right?


no using h70 watercooler
must stress thats is only on one core others are about 3-5 degrees less.but compareing the temps on realtemp and a1 suite i get some diff temp readings but not much


----------



## gumby510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14816977*
> no using h70 watercooler


Tcase on our processors is 72.6 or something like that. I was running a h50 and my load temps on stock was 75C. With a mild overlock it went to 80c plus. I RMA'd that H50 and got a h100 and my temps went WAY down. Im in the 50's now at 4.3ghz. If you can fit the H100 in your case I would think about grabbing that.


----------



## chillidog

yes i did think about the h100
but before i built my system e-mailed corsair asking about the h70 with the 2500k chip and they said that the h70 is more capable even with oc.so i took their word for it


----------



## TwoCables

I'm sorry, but please stop saying a1 suite 11 (I don't know why, but it bugs me.







). It's Ai Suite II. There are no numbers in its name. It means "Artificial Intelligence Suite 2".

Ai Suite II.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumby510;14817021*
> Tcase on our processors is 72.6 or something like that. I was running a h50 and my load temps on stock was 75C. With a mild overlock it went to 80c plus. I RMA'd that H50 and got a h100 and my temps went WAY down. Im in the 50's now at 4.3ghz. If you can fit the H100 in your case I would think about grabbing that.


Yeah, but the tCase is not the maximum safe core temperature. The maximum safe core temperature is closer to 98°C because that's the Tj. Max.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14817065*
> I'm sorry, but please stop saying a1 suite 11 (I don't know why, but it bugs me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). It's Ai Suite II. There are no numbers in its name. It means "Artificial Intelligence Suite 2".
> 
> Ai Suite II.


sorry you did tell me befor,its me trying to be smart typing quick

so do think the temp is high or wot i had no kiss of death yet


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14817095*
> sorry you did tell me befor,its me trying to be smart typing quick


That confuses me because the '1' key is pretty far away from the 'i'.









Anyway, is there any way I can convince you to uninstall Ai Suite II and start doing all of your overclocking directly in the UEFI? To start with, you are free to use my settings that turrican9 graciously put in his OP of this thread. Actually, my current settings are slightly different from what he has in his OP because I now have a manual setting for VCCIO Voltage and CPU PLL Voltage instead of using Auto:


Spoiler: My stable 4.8 GHz settings



*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 48
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-11-9-29-1T
*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.040V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* 1.70625V
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto



You can use these settings and then if it's not stable, we can tweak certain things. For example, if this isn't stable, then you may need a different CPU Offset Voltage (core voltage). Or, you may need to set the VCCIO and the CPU PLL Voltages to Auto. Or, you may need to tweak other things. Either way, it can be a good start!

Regarding the temps: they are higher than I would expect for this overclock with that core voltage, but they're definitely not dangerous in the least bit. The maximum safe core temperature is closer to 98°C because that is the Tj. Max. (that's why Real Temp displays the distance to the Tj. Max).

Regarding 10 minutes of Prime95: that actually doesn't determine stability at all. In the old days with the previous generation Intel CPUs, 10 minutes of the Small FFTs test in Prime95 (not Blend!) was a great way to determine what your max temps will be during a good long run of Prime95. With Sandy Bridge, things have changed quite significantly: now we can determine our max Prime95 temps using Blend. In fact, the Small FFTs test is no longer useful even for determining stability!


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14817095*
> sorry you did tell me befor,its me trying to be smart typing quick
> 
> so do think the temp is high or wot i had no kiss of death yet


Mine was running up to 80°C on the hottest core while testing with Prime95 using a Corsair H80 water cooler. But my test lasted for over 17h with all workers running, until I stopped it manually. During gaming it never gets that high, mostly stays under 70°C.

I keep recommending not to use AI Suite II for overclocking. Before I knew how to do it the right way, I let AI Suite do an "Extreme" auto overclock for me. It made a few restarts, clocked the CPU higher and higher. At some point, it gave me the warning, that the temp was 95°C and I pulled out the AC cable to prevent it from going even higher. This teached me pretty enough not to try this again.

At this point I remembered the AI Overclocking functions of my ASUS A8N-SLI Premium Board (nforce4, for AMD Athlon64 / X2 processors). Back then (about 6 years ago) auto overclocking also resulted in high temperatures and system crashes.

I think those routines test until the system will no more boot or crash and adjust multi, bclk and vcore to extremely high values, no matter what effect this has on the cpus lifetime. After the final crash or boot failure they apply the highest running setting without further stability testing and sell it to the user as the best possible stable setting.

I again strongly recommend not to use the auto overclocking functions!


----------



## chillidog

OK REPORT BACK
right taken out ai suite
copied twocables template the only thing i did not changed is 48 by all cores i kept it for now @46
did a rerun of prime95 for the same time i did before and i great inprovement
prime passed on all cores.
realtemp is a bit inprovement on last test but core 3 was still bit hot than others coming in @74 instead of 75 LAST TIME
core 2&4 was 1 degee less than before @69 instead of 70
and core 1 just come [email protected] just one degree hotter
so it seems i just got one core thats going to run a bit hotter than others
boot up seems better without the prepost normally its boots then shuts then restarts into windows.
so many thx to twocables i know he have told me before about taking out ai suite but being a newbie to ocing i wasn't sure what to do
now i listen and you learn and i







him

am still runing prime in the back ground and so far ok


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14817807*
> OK REPORT BACK
> right taken out ai suite
> copied twocables template the only thing i did not changed is 48 by all cores i kept it for now @46
> did a rerun of prime95 for the same time i did before and i great inprovement
> prime passed on all cores.
> realtemp is a bit inprovement on last test but core 3 was still bit hot than others coming in @74 instead of 75 LAST TIME
> core 2&4 was 1 degee less than before @69 instead of 70
> and core 1 just come [email protected] just one degree hotter
> so it seems i just got one core thats going to run a bit hotter than others
> boot up seems better without the prepost normally its boots then shuts then restarts into windows.
> so many thx to twocables i know he have told me before about taking out ai suite but being a newbie to ocing i wasn't sure what to do
> now i listen and you learn and i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> him
> 
> am still runing prime in the back ground and so far ok










This is awesome.









What core voltage are you getting in CPU-Z while Prime95 is running?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twocables;14817955*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what core voltage are you getting in cpu-z while prime95 is running?


am getting: 1.384v

AM ON 5TH PASS OF PRIME AND STILL ALL OK
OVER 35 MINS AS PASSED
AND STILL TEMPS ARE OK
CORE1:69
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
MAX


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14818005*
> am getting: 1.384v
> 
> AM ON 5TH PASS OF PRIME AND STILL ALL OK
> OVER 35 MINS AS PASSED
> AND STILL TEMPS ARE OK
> CORE1:69
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> MAX


35 minutes is basically nothing.







12 hours is more solid.

Anyway, 73°C for 1.384V seems high to me. What is your room temperature right now? I mean, what's the approximate air temperature that your intake fans are pulling into the case? Is it cold, cool, comfortable, warm or hot? I mean, I would expect the H70 to perform better than this!


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14818111*
> 35 minutes is basically nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 12 hours is more solid.
> 
> Anyway, 73°C for 1.384V seems high to me. What is your room temperature right now? I mean, what's the approximate air temperature that your intake fans are pulling into the case? Is it cold, cool, comfortable, warm or hot? I mean, I would expect the H70 to perform better than this!


it is quite hot in here
@ a guess i would say around in the 80's
the pc sits in a corner on desk about 7-9 inchs away from the walls so i would expect the temps to be abit high


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14818151*
> it is quite hot in here
> @ a guess i would say around in the 80's
> the pc sits in a corner on desk about 7-9 inchs away from the walls so i would expect the temps to be abit high


Whoa. In that case, I'm impressed!


----------



## turrican9

*Constantine85* and *SixSide* added to the Club. Welcome !


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14818177*
> Whoa. In that case, I'm impressed!


forgot to say i reset realtemp a while ago and so far core 3 as maxed out @75
so two degees less than last time. so some inprovment


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14818318*
> forgot to say i reset realtemp a while ago and so far core 3 as maxed out @75
> so two degees less than last time. so some inprovment


Still, not bad for a room that hot.









Are you willing to attempt 48x? I'm kind of interested to see if 1.384V is enough with your CPU. It is for some, and it isn't for others.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14818327*
> Still, not bad for a room that hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you willing to attempt 48x? I'm kind of interested to see if 1.384V is enough with your CPU. It is for some, and it isn't for others.


am going to carrie on prime for a while and then i will try next step @4.7 and then 4.8
and see wot happens


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14818408*
> am going to carrie on prime for a while and then i will try next step @4.7 and then 4.8
> and see wot happens


do i only change the by all cores from 46 to 47 and keep the rest of settings in your template as they are?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14818551*
> do i only change the by all cores from 46 to 47 and keep the rest of settings in your template as they are?


Hopefully. I mean, every CPU is different so there is no guarantee that it will be stable. However, I predict that it should be quite stable at 47x and possibly even 48x.


----------



## VaporXtreme

does the newer motherboards the P8Z68-V Pro let you do the Asus APS return

http://service.asus.com/aps/

Also did everyone know that you can only do aps returns 1 time


----------



## chillidog

am on 4.7 never had that before so far ok
temps are at low @63
and on high @72 max
still run prime and ok

when i did use ai suite on auto clock using extreme it went to 4.7 and just rebooted and went back to previous auto oc. so this is a great improvement
so it shows that this ai suite is naff

so a big







to twocables again


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VaporXtreme;14818746*
> does the newer motherboards the P8Z68-V Pro let you do the Asus APS return
> 
> http://service.asus.com/aps/
> 
> Also did everyone know that you can only do aps returns 1 time


that only for the U.S.A NOWHERE ELSE


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14818791*
> am on 4.7 never had that before so far ok
> temps are at low @63
> and on high @72 max
> still run prime and ok
> 
> when i did use ai suite on auto clock using extreme it went to 4.7 and just rebooted and went back to previous auto oc. so this is a great improvement
> so it shows that this ai suite is naff
> 
> so a big
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to twocables again


You're welcome!

I can't remember whether or not I told you this before, but I went straight to 4.7 GHz when I overclocked my 2500K for the first time. After that, I went to 4.8 GHz and I've been there ever since.

Overclocking the 2500K to 4.7GHz is like overclocking the E8400 to about 3.8-3.9 GHz. I think overclocking the 2500K to 4.8GHz is like overclocking the E8400 to about 4.0GHz to maybe 4.1.


----------



## VaporXtreme

Chiilidog dont get mad honeslty i had a p67 sabertooth that went on the first day then the aps me another one with bent pins and they would do it again. They are ridiculous i get 5 answer one says its a 1 time offer other say its not


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14818819*
> You're welcome!
> 
> I can't remember whether or not I told you this before, but I went straight to 4.7 GHz when I overclocked my 2500K for the first time. After that, I went to 4.8 GHz and I've been there ever since.
> 
> Overclocking the 2500K to 4.7GHz is like overclocking the E8400 to about 3.8-3.9 GHz. I think overclocking the 2500K to 4.8GHz is like overclocking the E8400 to about 4.0GHz to maybe 4.1.


am glad i found this forum
and a big thumbs up to yous
i have now validated with cpu-z
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1983831

and prime still runing ok and temps even lower


----------



## Nethermir

thanks for answering my question turrican9!

now another question: do we have any definite fix regarding sleep mode? i use my computer every single day and i may need the sleep option soon


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14823662*
> thanks for answering my question turrican9!
> 
> now another question: do we have any definite fix regarding sleep mode? i use my computer every single day and i may need the sleep option soon


Why might you need it? I mean, I use mine every single day (I live at my computer), but I never use Sleep or Hibernation. I just turn my computer off every single time I know I'm going to be away from it for like an hour or more. Plus, Sleep (or Hibernation) was designed for laptops.


----------



## Nethermir

it's really more of a convenience issue since i dont want to open up all my programs all over again every time i need to step away for a an hour or two. i'll probably just have to leave my computer on instead.


----------



## The_Scottish_Alchemist

Add me please, just got my ASUS z68 Deluxe!


----------



## Julez007

Hey guys, Im using a p8z68 v pro and have overclocked a core i7 2600k to 4.5ghz on air. I was wondering if my temps are OK... on idle it's around 38c on each 4 core and under load goes to about 78c - 73c depending on outside temps.

Also when i look at the cpu-z it seems that it's almost always at 4.5ghz and i want it to go down to 1.6ghz while on idle and go up to 4.5 while on load. I seem to have forgotten which setting allows it to go down and up depending on load.


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;14826547*
> Hey guys, Im using a p8z68 v pro and have overclocked a core i7 2600k to 4.5ghz on air. I was wondering if my temps are OK... on idle it's around 38c on each 4 core and under load goes to about 78c - 73c depending on outside temps.
> 
> Also when i look at the cpu-z it seems that it's almost always at 4.5ghz and i want it to go down to 16ghz while on idle and go up to 4.5 while on load. I seemed to have forgotten which setting allows it to go down and up depending on load.


Temps are ok.

You have to activate Intel Speedstep Technology to have it clock down in idle.


----------



## Jalarebel

I would like to be added to the Z68 Deluxe membership please. I have a noob question... should I update my bios version although I am not having issues with the current version? If so, do I use the AI updater, flash drive or dos option?

I would also like to OC but again I am a noob... is there an OC101 link?

Thanks!


----------



## Julez007

Quote:


> Temps are ok.
> 
> You have to activate Intel Speedstep Technology to have it clock down in idle.


I have Intel Speedstep enabled but it seems to just stay at 4.5ghz after i started using these settings...

Ai Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 48
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Manual
CPU Voltage: 1.320V
DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Auto


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jalarebel;14826657*
> I would like to be added to the Z68 Deluxe membership please. I have a noob question... should I update my bios version although I am not having issues with the current version? If so, do I use the AI updater, flash drive or dos option?
> 
> I would also like to OC but again I am a noob... is there an OC101 link?
> 
> Thanks!


Welcome to OCN!

I updated my P8Z68 Deluxe, because I thought, that I could fix problems with my ssd, but it did not help and an SSD firmware update brought the solution. I have not seen any difference between my old BIOS Ver and the new one (0603). The main difference are several compatibility fixes and a Intel SATA Controller Firmware update. I think it would not hurt to update bios before overclocking.

I updated it using AI Update without having problems.

About Overclocking I would like to say one thing first. Please do not use the ASUS AI Suite Software to change OC settings and do NOT try the auto overclocking option.

Best you get TwoCables' settings (in one of the first posts of this club) and put them into your UEFI as a starting point.

You should get Prime95 to test your system stability. Run a Torture Test using Blend with 8 threads. If this runs without stopping workers for 12h+, consider your system to be stable. While testing monitor your core temps using RealTemp, they should stay below the mid 80s at maximum.

Also get CPU-Z to read the CPU Voltage.

How high you can get depends on your CPU. If the settings are not stable, then you could do the following things:

- Increase Offset Voltage, but please do not go more than 1-2 steps up until next test.

-Increase VCCIO Voltage, 1.15V would be a good start, but please stay under 1.2

-Lower Multiplier by 1

If Windows does not boot at all you could also try to Enable Internal PLL Overvoltage.

Wish you good luck with testing. You could report back about your results, and do not forget to post your values as well as Vcore, Core Temps


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;14826673*
> I have Intel Speedstep enabled but it seems to just stay at 4.5ghz after i started using these settings...
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
> Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
> DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Manual
> CPU Voltage: 1.320V
> DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto


Hmm, have you tried to use an offset voltage instead of manual voltage ? The way you configured it, Vcore will always stay the same and not get lower when clocked down by speedstep. But I do not know if this is why it does not go below 4,5Ghz. I assume your multi is 45, not 48, right ?
Perhaps we should wait for one of the real experts here to look over this, but until then you could try offset voltage.


----------



## slimex

Julez007, I see from your sig, that you are using windows Vista 32-Bit.

I have 2 suggestions:

1. 32-bit systems can only adress 3-4 GB of ram, you should choose a 64-bit operating system, because you got 8GB of RAM and I think you want to use them









2. Because you have to change anyway, then choose Windows 7. It performs significantly faster and has all features of Vista.


----------



## Stuuut

Hey i already asked it before but can you add me to the club??








Asus P8Z68-V Pro owner here


----------



## Julez007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;14826919*
> Julez007, I see from your sig, that you are using windows Vista 32-Bit.
> 
> I have 2 suggestions:
> 
> 1. 32-bit systems can only adress 3-4 GB of ram, you should choose a 64-bit operating system, because you got 8GB of RAM and I think you want to use them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Because you have to change anyway, then choose Windows 7. It performs significantly faster and has all features of Vista.


I should be getting windows 7 ultimate 64 in a week or so. But windows vista 32 bit seems to recognize all 8 gigs of ram... Or is it not being utilized by vista 32?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut;14827945*
> Hey i already asked it before but can you add me to the club??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus P8Z68-V Pro owner here


if for some reason you are not getting added, your post might have been buried and missed, send a pm to turrican9


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14829503*
> if for some reason you are not getting added, your post might have been buried and missed, send a pm to turrican9


Yeah figured that i'll wait out this try and if it didn't work i'll send him a PM


----------



## qwwwizx

Hi all,

I got a P8Z68V-Pro. In it I have 4pcs of 2 GB Corsair Dominator GT 2133 (9-10-9-24-2T) 1.65v memory modules.

My system is unstable when I run with all of them (8GB) @ XMP 2133Mhz. 
It gets stable when I run with all of them (8GB) @ 1866Mhz
Its completely stable when run 2 at the time (4GB) @ XMP 2133Mhz.

*Shouldnt I be able to run full speed with 4 modules in this board? *

Did anyone else experience this, and do anybody have a solution to this?

I test them by running Prime95 blend. When I run with all 4 dimms, the workers stops each by each within some minutes, and tell me to look in stress.txt. I also get different errors running super pi.

/qwwwizx


----------



## InFit

^^^try bumping the vicco voltage to about 1.1/1.2v,let us know how that works out .


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *qwwwizx*


Hi all,

I got a P8Z68V-Pro. In it I have 4pcs of 2 GB Corsair Dominator GT 2133 (9-10-9-24-2T) 1.65v memory modules.

My system is unstable when I run with all of them (8GB) @ XMP 2133Mhz. 
It gets stable when I run with all of them (8GB) @ 1866Mhz
Its completely stable when run 2 at the time (4GB) @ XMP 2133Mhz.

*Shouldnt I be able to run full speed with 4 modules in this board? *

Did anyone else experience this, and do anybody have a solution to this?


I got the same thing when I run my RAM at full speed I get BSOD
and when I clock them down then no problem. thought I think just need to buy a new set of rams that are actually SB compatible (although the ram I own are in the boards QVL)


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

HI!! I need to CLEAR CMOS but I see a hole in the back side of the CASE, how I'm supposed to clear it?


----------



## Stuuut

EDIT:
Ooops sorry misread your post :S


----------



## qwwwizx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *InFit*


^^^try bumping the vicco voltage to about 1.1/1.2v,let us know how that works out .


I tried to bump it to both 1.1v, 1.2v, 1.3v, with close to no results. I might be able to run like 5-10 sec longer before prime95 close the workers.

Funny enough I don't get BSODs, only workers that shutdown because of hardware faults.

I am on 0606 bios and heard about a later beta bios that is more compatible. The only problem is that all the links to that bios seems to be broken!


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster*


HI!! I need to CLEAR CMOS but I see a hole in the back side of the CASE, how I'm supposed to clear it?


I believe that design on that board should be similar as mine so at back of the case where is located back I/O ports on the plate should be label clr CMOS and right under there's little hole, You just put in there something thin and push. If you do it successfully PC should restart with default CMOS settings


----------



## Julez007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


Hmm, have you tried to use an offset voltage instead of manual voltage ? The way you configured it, Vcore will always stay the same and not get lower when clocked down by speedstep. But I do not know if this is why it does not go below 4,5Ghz. I assume your multi is 45, not 48, right ?
Perhaps we should wait for one of the real experts here to look over this, but until then you could try offset voltage.


Sorry if this is a stupid question, but if i want to use an offset voltage, how would i do that if i want the voltage at 1.320 voltage at max load? I am not familiar with the offset voltage...


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;14833613*
> Sorry if this is a stupid question, but if i want to use an offset voltage, how would i do that if i want the voltage at 1.320 voltage at max load? I am not familiar with the offset voltage...


set the multi to 40 and the offset to +0.05 and then load windows and run prime blend and see what voltage you get, continue upping the offset to your desired load voltage. then set your overclock to what you had it before.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster;14831641*
> HI!! I need to CLEAR CMOS but I see a hole in the back side of the CASE, how I'm supposed to clear it?


I use a toothpick. The actual button is very recessed inside of that hole. You will know you pressed it because you can feel it kinda 'click' a little bit when you push it.

However, the button must be held down for a moment (I'd hold it down for 5 seconds just for good measure).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;14833613*
> Sorry if this is a stupid question, but if i want to use an offset voltage, how would i do that if i want the voltage at 1.320 voltage at max load? I am not familiar with the offset voltage...


I recommend first setting the Load-Line Calibration to Ultra High in order to make it as easy as possible to calculate it. After that, go into Windows and open Core Temp. If it's displaying a VID that is like 1.3511V or something, then it's showing you a useful number. If it's showing a very low VID of like less than 1.1V, then you must put load on the CPU by running something that doesn't stop (like Prime95). Some people have to put load on their CPU in order to get Core Temp to display their VID.

Once you get Core Temp to show you your actual VID, make a mental note of it (or just write it down, or put it in Notepad). If it fluctuates at all, remember all of the VIDs you see. For example: mine fluctuates between 1.3511V and 1.3611V. Therefore, if I want about 1.400V, then I must use an Offset of +0.040V because 0.040 + 1.3611 = 1.4011. If I wanted a voltage lower than 1.3511V, then I would use a Minus Offset like -0.020V which would result in 1.3311V to 1.3411. Now, the actual voltages that get displayed by CPU-Z will be slightly different and they will also only have 3 decimal places, but still: this is how to do it.

This is actually quite easy, and I think you will agree with me once you begin doing it.


----------



## gumby510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster;14831641*
> HI!! I need to CLEAR CMOS but I see a hole in the back side of the CASE, how I'm supposed to clear it?


Also a paperclip works also if Your toothpick is to big.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumby510;14834098*
> Also a paperclip works also if Your toothpick is to big.


No comment.


----------



## Lord_Snow

Hi all,

I just bought an SSD (m4) and I am wondering about which SATA slot I should use, 6GB one?


----------



## Triig

Can you add me to the club as well









I just built my system and haven't tried any overclocking yet, but soon... I have learned a whole lot reading this thread already, and I'm sure I have a whole lot more to learn. I've been using :cough: MacPro :cough: for a long time, so it will be a big change going back to windows lol. I have no plans to get rid of my Apple though, just wanted a real gaming computer.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord_Snow;14835060*
> Hi all,
> 
> I just bought an SSD (m4) and I am wondering about which SATA slot I should use, 6GB one?


Connect it to one of the two white (or "gray") ports that are right next to the navy blue ports. Avoid the navy blue ports because they are controlled by the Marvell controller. The gray and light blue ports are controlled by the Intel chipset which is far better.

The white (or "gray") ports are SATA 3 (6 Gb/sec), and the light blue ports are SATA 2 (3 Gb/sec).


----------



## Julez007

Quote:


> I recommend first setting the Load-Line Calibration to Ultra High in order to make it as easy as possible to calculate it. After that, go into Windows and open Core Temp. If it's displaying a VID that is like 1.3511V or something, then it's showing you a useful number. If it's showing a very low VID of like less than 1.1V, then you must put load on the CPU by running something that doesn't stop (like Prime95). Some people have to put load on their CPU in order to get Core Temp to display their VID.
> 
> Once you get Core Temp to show you your actual VID, make a mental note of it (or just write it down, or put it in Notepad). If it fluctuates at all, remember all of the VIDs you see. For example: mine fluctuates between 1.3511V and 1.3611V. Therefore, if I want about 1.400V, then I must use an Offset of +0.040V because 0.040 + 1.3611 = 1.4011. If I wanted a voltage lower than 1.3511V, then I would use a Minus Offset like -0.020V which would result in 1.3311V to 1.3411. Now, the actual voltages that get displayed by CPU-Z will be slightly different and they will also only have 3 decimal places, but still: this is how to do it.
> 
> This is actually quite easy, and I think you will agree with me once you begin doing it.


Now i'm confused. cpu-z is showing core voltage at 1.328v and coretemp is showing vid at 1.3711v... Is this suppose to be the same? my offset value is -0.035 at 4.5ghz? which one should i use?


----------



## TwoCables

Please use Print Screen to take screenshots.

Core Temp is showing the VID, not the current voltage.


----------



## InFit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwwwizx;14832049*
> I tried to bump it to both 1.1v, 1.2v, 1.3v, with close to no results. I might be able to run like 5-10 sec longer before prime95 close the workers.
> 
> Funny enough I don't get BSODs, only workers that shutdown because of hardware faults.
> 
> I am on 0606 bios and heard about a later beta bios that is more compatible. The only problem is that all the links to that bios seems to be broken!


i got 2 things to say about this:

1) usualy when running 4 sticks of ram you need to bump the ram and vicco voltage...upping the vicco didnt help much and upping the ram "could" fix the prob but its not recommened cause you've reached the official limites....

2) you may have a faulty stick, so id advise to test your ram by pairs.. youll need to run memtest for about 6hours on each pair..if the app gives you errors, email corsair saying memtest is giving you errors,they ll rma without questioning.


----------



## DEEBS808

Can I join.Just bought one it should be here on tuesday.Plan on waiting for a few WCing parts to finish my loop.It should be up and running by the end of the week.Will also post pictures.Thanks


----------



## Kenji

So I'm doing a new build soon and I cant decide between the P8P67 Deluxe and the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe which is the best for Overclocking an i7-2600K on air to 4GHz and what ram to pair with it.


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji;14839445*
> So I'm doing a new build soon and I cant decide between the P8P67 Deluxe and the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe which is the best for Overclocking an i7-2600K on air to 4GHz and what ram to pair with it.


TBH overclocking a 2600k or 2500k isn't hard at all.... i can even press a button in the bios and it auto clocks to 4.3 GHz without doing anything.

I would go with Corsair Vengeance ram they are pretty good... what cooler are you getting because some will block your ram slots and then you will need to get LP ram (Low Profile) (only difference is the heatspreaders on top)


----------



## Kenji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut;14839484*
> TBH overclocking a 2600k or 2500k isn't hard at all.... i can even press a button in the bios and it auto clocks to 4.3 GHz without doing anything.
> 
> I would go with Corsair Vengeance ram they are pretty good... what cooler are you getting because some will block your ram slots and then you will need to get LP ram (Low Profile) (only difference is the heatspreaders on top)


Undecided on the cooler as well what would provide the best low temps?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji;14839516*
> Undecided on the cooler as well what would provide the best low temps?


That depends what you want a Tower cooler or a liquid cooling solution.
Best tower coolers are Noctua NH-D14 and Silver arrow.
As for liquid cooling you can buy Corsairs liquid cooling solution H80 or something more advanced XSPC rasa kit


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji;14839445*
> So I'm doing a new build soon and I cant decide between the P8P67 Deluxe and the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe which is the best for Overclocking an i7-2600K on air to 4GHz and what ram to pair with it.


The Deluxe models are actually major overkill if you're going to be doing air cooling - especially if your goal is only 4 GHz. The Deluxe models are designed more for people using sub-zero cooling (like liquid nitrogen, dry ice, etc.) to get extreme overclocks easily in excess of 5 GHz.

For the average air overclock, the P8P67 Pro or P8Z68-V Pro is more than enough.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


I believe that design on that board should be similar as mine so at back of the case where is located back I/O ports on the plate should be label clr CMOS and right under there's little hole, You just put in there something thin and push. If you do it successfully PC should restart with default CMOS settings


Thanks buddy I could clear cmos using that, apart from this.

I reached 2500k OC limited by stock cooling 4ghz with 1.175v , when I tried to reach 4.4ghz I tried to use 1.260v and it just get TOO warm, and I couldn't boot. In the BIOS screen I got 73celcious *** so I just left it with 4ghz :S any tweak for the stock cooling that could help me reach better temps or I'm just using too much voltage or dunno


----------



## Break

I just did a quick speed test on my three samsung F4 hard disks and I got different results for one of them. Two of the drives were 125mb/s read/write but the other one was 75mb/s read/write. Is this the difference between sata 3gb/s and 6gb/s?


----------



## XiZeL

P8Z68-V takes loNger to detect keyboard and mouse thant the time it takes to reach logon screen, has anyone had this issue?

using Stealseries XAI
and MS wirless Keyboard 2000


----------



## chillidog

i all
the 4.7 oc i did the other day worked for a day. upon the following morning when started the pc i had a blue screen,started into windows but a few files ie antivirus,bbc2 game did not want to start.it seems somewhere windows files got corupted. in the end i had to reinstall windows also flashed the bios to 0606.
reinstall everything apart from ai suite, manual oc with twocables template but change the 48 to 44 so now am running @ 4533mhz so far all seems to be ok .going to prime/temp later overnight and report back later then i might try again @4.6


----------



## Hackcremo

hey guys...i been running prime 95 BLEND nightly at 4.7 GHZ 2500K + p8p67pro but wake up this morning saw my screen lock ups..No BSOD but simply hang with no display on screen..i do manually restart it and check back prime log, it hang start from 3am (my time)..before sleep, i saw my temp hover around 75-80..if the flaw because of cpu must got BSOD but just lock ups, is this because of ram??


----------



## experience333

I would like to join. Here is my CPU-Z validation.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1987373


----------



## Julez007

so i ran prime95 last night on blend for 3 hours at 4.5ghz with 1.320vcore... temps were good, (max temp was 79 on load) but when i play my games it sometimes freezes and get's pixelated. I think it's my graphics card. Evga Gtx 470. I got the card from evga to replace a gtx 280 under warranty and i think they sent me a recertified gtx 470. when i talked to evga they said it might be my power supply. whats a good 12v rail monitor so i could check if it's my power supply?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XiZeL*


P8Z68-V takes loNger to detect keyboard and mouse thant the time it takes to reach logon screen, has anyone had this issue?

using Stealseries XAI
and MS wirless Keyboard 2000


Do you have them plugged into the USB 2.0 ports, or the USB 3.0 ports?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


i all
the 4.7 oc i did the other day worked for a day. upon the following morning when started the pc i had a blue screen,started into windows but a few files ie antivirus,bbc2 game did not want to start.it seems somewhere windows files got corupted. in the end i had to reinstall windows also flashed the bios to 0606.
reinstall everything apart from ai suite, manual oc with twocables template but change the 48 to 44 so now am running @ 4533mhz so far all seems to be ok .going to prime/temp later overnight and report back later then i might try again @4.6


Your BCLK is still at 103. I recommend changing it to 100.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


so i ran prime95 last night on blend for 3 hours at 4.5ghz with 1.320vcore... temps were good, (max temp was 79 on load) but when i play my games it sometimes freezes and get's pixelated. I think it's my graphics card. Evga Gtx 470. I got the card from evga to replace a gtx 280 under warranty and i think they sent me a recertified gtx 470. when i talked to evga they said it might be my power supply. whats a good 12v rail monitor so i could check if it's my power supply?


It could be the overclock. 3 hours of Prime95's Blend test is actually nowhere near enough to determine stability.

If it can pass 12 hours or more, then it should be safe to declare it stable.

Also, I honestly don't think it's your PSU.


----------



## Julez007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Do you have them plugged into the USB 2.0 ports, or the USB 3.0 ports?

Your BCLK is still at 103. I recommend changing it to 100.









It could be the overclock. 3 hours of Prime95's Blend test is actually nowhere near enough to determine stability.

If it can pass 12 hours or more, then it should be safe to declare it stable.

Also, I honestly don't think it's your PSU.


I will run it for atleast 12 hours and see if it's still stable. How do I check if it's the power supply?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


I will run it for atleast 12 hours and see if it's still stable. How do I check if it's the power supply?


It's unlikely that it's the PSU. Let's wait and see what happens with stress testing first.


----------



## Erper

is there any option in bios that will keep cpu on 4.5ghz speed... not to vary all the time


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14854295*
> is there any option in bios that will keep cpu on 4.5ghz speed... not to vary all the time


Yes, but there's no performance benefit from it.


----------



## Erper

ook...
is it safe to change BCLK/PEG from 100 for more, like 103, 105


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14854335*
> ook...
> is it safe to change BCLK/PEG from 100 for more, like 103, 105


Yeah, but doing so is usually reserved for trying to squeeze out a few more megahertz. Like let's say you can't get a multi of 50 to work no matter how hard you try and no matter who helps you. This is when you'd start increasing the BCLK with your multi at 49 so that you might have a chance of reaching 5 GHz wthout increasing the multi to 50. 103x49 is 5047 MHz.









If you do begin adjusting the BCLK, then disable CPU Spread Spectrum EIST, and C1E.


----------



## Erper

ok, thx...

ive set 4.2 in bios...
when i pressed oc he changed to 103 and 4.5 so i was thinking there is some advance in it...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14854398*
> ok, thx...
> 
> ive set 4.2 in bios...
> when i pressed oc he changed to 103 and 4.5 so i was thinking there is some advance in it...


It's just lazy. That's why we like to do it manually: we know how to keep the BCLK at 100. Unlike that automated thing, we don't need to increase the BCLK. We're awesome like that (this includes you).

So leave the BCLK at 100 and overclock manually. All you really should need to do is increase the multi and the core voltage.


----------



## Crabby654

Out of curosity for the P8P67 Pro which Sata ports would be good for using my C300 64Gb SSD (Sata III) and my 1TB Sata III?

I had heard in the past the Intel Sata 3 ports are much better than the Marvell ones, does this still hold true?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;14854935*
> Out of curosity for the P8P67 Pro which Sata ports would be good for using my C300 64Gb SSD (Sata III) and my 1TB Sata III?
> 
> I had heard in the past the Intel Sata 3 ports are much better than the Marvell ones, does this still hold true?


You want to be using the intel sata 3 ports (white ones) yes afaik the intel controller is better.


----------



## Crabby654

Alrighty thank you very much, just wanted to make sure I wasn't being completely silly


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;14855022*
> Alrighty thank you very much, just wanted to make sure I wasn't being completely silly


your welcome


----------



## Julez007

How do you print screen and post the pic in the forums?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;14860213*
> How do you print screen and post the pic in the forums?


You could use the Snipping Tool.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


How do you print screen and post the pic in the forums?


F12 in the UEFI. It requires a USB flash drive.

However, please open each UEFI screenshot in Microsoft Paint and perform a Save As using the *PNG* format. This preserves the image quality while resulting in a much smaller file size.

You can attach your screenshots to any post using the paper clip button on the toolbar above (here on OCN while you're creating a new post).


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


F12 in the UEFI. It requires a USB flash drive.

However, please open each UEFI screenshot in Microsoft Paint and perform a Save As using the *PNG* format. This preserves the image quality while resulting in a much smaller file size.


yeah for some reason I think because of my wirless keyboard and mouse, the damn F12 button doesn't work, same with the F2, not sure why. Might have to try with a standard PS/2 keyboard.


----------



## Julez007

Quote:



It's unlikely that it's the PSU. Let's wait and see what happens with stress testing first.


I did the 12hour blend test and it passed...









Now how do i check that it's not my power supply or graphics card.


----------



## chillidog

after the other day with corrupt windows and a flesh install of windows
manual oc to 4.5.
did prime for 9 hours no:4 worker stop with(FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4870605469, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected.)not sure wot this means but all others workers was happy to carrie on.
vcore at min @1.29 and @max 1.3
temps peaked @65 on core 3 in which was a great inprovement from 75 before i had the corrupt windows


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


I did the 12hour blend test and it passed...









Now how do i check that it's not my power supply or graphics card.


I'd say that you just did.


----------



## Hackcremo

stable OC my 2500K to 4.5..next target is 4.7..hope i can reach this with this procs..i have some Q, is it safe to boot up at 1.5V vcore..??


----------



## chillidog

QUESTION FOR TWOCABLES

my oc was taken from your template
Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 48
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: DDR3-1866MHz (left @1600mhz)
DRAM Timing Control: 9-11-9-29-1T
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
DRAM Voltage: 1.5000V (did not changed)? my mem pc3 [email protected] at [email protected]
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: 1.15625V
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.70625V
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Auto

the only thing i did not change is the memory setting as yours is higher than mine @ ddr3 1600 so due to lack of knowledge i left wot was showning the bios settings for the memory i have got.BUT changed everything else as shown in your template.could this be why i got prime error?.

if you could do an template for memory for 1600 i think mine runs @1.6
i would of throught that the following from you template
DRAM Voltage: 1.5000V
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: 1.15625V
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.70625V
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
i would need to be different settings to my mem if you know wot i mean.if so wot settings would i need to change and what to?


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> if you could do an template for memory for 1600 i think mine runs @1.6
> i would of throught that the following from you template
> DRAM Voltage: 1.5000V
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: 1.15625V
> CPU PLL Voltage: 1.70625V
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> i would need to be different settings to my mem if you know wot i mean.if so wot settings would i need to change and what to?


I'll throw in my half-of-cent since TwoCables seems to be gone! (weird I thought he was a computer always online)

But what you should do is check your ram physically (or where you bought it) and load the stock settings.

DRAM Voltage = if your ram says 1.6v, set it to 1.6v

VCCSA Voltage = Leave on auto

VCCIO Voltage = If your ram is on stock I'd recommend leaving this auto, I don't believe it effects CPU stability? I may be wrong

CPU PLL Voltage = I would leave this on auto unless you are going for a super aggressive OC (above 48x) and if you are then check this thread
out! http://www.overclock.net/14466483-post2250.html

PCH Voltage = Not sure what this does, but auto should be fine

CPU Spread Spectrum = Enabled is good for this.

Also make sure you find your Timings of your ram and go into the Ram Timings menu and adjust them properly, for some reason a lot of auto ram timings have them set super loose, EX: if you have 9-9-9 ram it might be auto at like 11-11-11 which happens to me ><

Hope this helps!


----------



## chillidog

HI CRABBY654

am sure twocables will show up soon.
i know the memory i got is geil black dragon gaming series
pc312800 1600mhz
cl 9-9-9-28
1.6V

4X2 GIG STICKS

now i think these figures are the trimings that you are talking about?

i also include my bios screen shots to show am sure someone will pick something up


----------



## Crabby654

Ok lets go through this 1 picture at a time. I'll start off by saying I am no means a pro at these motherboards or the new UEFI but I will suggest what has worked for my rig to get it stable.

Picture 1:

EPU Power Saving Mode = Disable this, there is also probably a jumper on your motherboard to change to physically disable it.

Picture 2:

C1E = Enabled (not auto)
C3 = Auto
C6 = Auto

Picture 4:

CPU Voltage = Manual Mode (if you are OCing your CPU and are sure what the stable VCore is then I would set this to manual and manually set the VCore, it should still fluctuate with the C states and speedstep enabled)

CPU Spread Spectrum = Enabled

Overall the timings look to be good if that is what the stock suggests. But I would follow Munaim1's guide to totally tho http://www.overclock.net/14466483-post2250.html


----------



## Arimis5226

I can join ur club nao? I'm new to the site, and have a P8Z68-V Pro MoBo.


----------



## Kastrup

I've got an Asus P8P67 Deluxe.. Can I join?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hackcremo;14863600*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stable OC my 2500K to 4.5..next target is 4.7..hope i can reach this with this procs..i have some Q, is it safe to boot up at 1.5V vcore..??


i think generally we would want to be below 1.5v. additional comment, looking at your picture, the temps seem to be too high, you are hitting 80c, 4.5 ghz @ 1.384v you may want to try to push the temps down.


----------



## Kastrup

I've got a question involving the ASUS P8P67 Deluxe and some Vengeance RAM... I really hope you can help me


----------



## Nethermir

@Kastrup just post your issue and im sure someone will answer right away


----------



## Hackcremo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14868068*
> i think generally we would want to be below 1.5v. additional comment, looking at your picture, the temps seem to be too high, you are hitting 80c, 4.5 ghz @ 1.384v you may want to try to push the temps down.


i aware of my temp also one think i noted, the core 0 is much much lower compared to core 1,2,3..i want to resit and repaste later..then compare and run prime again..if i can get all core run with the temp of core 0..then i still get some headroom to OC..


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kastrup;14868222*
> I've got a question involving the ASUS P8P67 Deluxe and some Vengeance RAM... I really hope you can help me


IT MIGHT BE BEST TO ASK THE QUESTION FIRST
on wot you need to know and that way you might get replies quicker


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

I got p8z68 as you see in my sig, I have TRUE 120 and I need an adapter to install it to my i5, will it fit PERFECTLY this adapter? I don't wont to buy it and can't be able to install it cuz of 1mm difference or something


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14866762*
> HI CRABBY654
> 
> am sure twocables will show up soon.
> i know the memory i got is geil black dragon gaming series
> pc312800 1600mhz
> cl 9-9-9-28
> 1.6V
> 
> 4X2 GIG STICKS
> 
> now i think these figures are the trimings that you are talking about?
> 
> i also include my bios screen shots to show am sure someone will pick something up


Hi, chilidog!

Here are things I recommend doing right now:

Change your BCLK/PCIE Frequency to 100
Disable Internal PLL Overvoltage
Disable EPU Power Saving Mode
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14866762*



Change CPU C1E to "Enabled"
Change CPU C6 Report to "Auto"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;14866762*



Set Load-Line Calibration to "Ultra High"
Set VRM Frequency to "Manual"
Set VRM Fixed Frequency Mode to "350"
Set Duty Control to "Extreme"
CPU Current Capability to "140%"
Change CPU Offset Voltage to a manual setting *instead* of "Auto" (using "Auto" makes it use way too much voltage). Start with 0.005V.
Change your VCCIO to 1.100V. This is because you have your DRAM Voltage set to 1.6. I mean, 1.6 minus 0.5 equals 1.1. So use a VCCIO of 1.100V.
Change CPU Spread Spectrum to "Enabled"

Ok, now regarding your memory, open CPU-Z and use the timings in the far-right column as shown in the example below (this is MY memory - yours will be different):










Enter all of the settings you see in yours into the UEFI. The box that contains "42" in this screenshot (yours may have a different number) is a value that is not in the UEFI, so ignore it.

Please make all of these changes as soon as possible.


----------



## Big-Pete

p8p67 pro Rev 3 for me


----------



## Infinite Jest

Are they going to release a non-beta BIOS revision any time soon?


----------



## PR-Imagery

Finally put my P8Z68 together. Pretty happy with it so far.


----------



## Amoniks

i am an owner of the P8P67-Deluxe







go to 5.6Ghz on 1.35v


----------



## coolhandluke41

@ TwoCables ..i don't get why you advise ppl to run 140% CPU Current Capability for such a low OC's and LLC Ultra High, it's just insane (you may want ultra under fixed for super high OC's but offset..you don't) the reason you found this combination to be successful "stable" is combination of both highest LLC/Current Capability (this way you won't freeze under light load and by pass the PPL overvoltage right ?)
quote;
Set Load-Line Calibration to "Ultra High" *(for 4.5~4.8 try medium,5.0+ high)*
Set VRM Frequency to "Manual"
Set VRM Fixed Frequency Mode to "350"
Set Duty Control to "Extreme"
CPU Current Capability to "140%" *(100% up to 4.8)*
Change CPU Offset Voltage to a manual setting instead of "Auto" (using "Auto" makes it use way too much voltage). Start with 0.005V...*(1.32~1.37v try +.01~.07<=keep bumping until you match fixed Vcore that you want +.02 is OK under offset for super stability)*
PPL Overvoltage *(Auto up to 4.8 or Enabled*

give it a shot ,you may like it

on the side note ; about CPU PPL voltage ..try to change this from default if you find your system unstable (when it seems like no matter how much juice you give system is still shaky )


----------



## shadow builder

Has anyone else had an issue with the +5Volt CHA_FAN2 header causing the fan connected it to it spin at a low RPM?

I have a 230mm front fan connected to this chassis fan header (HAF X) and the Asus Status monitor gives me alerts that it is spinning slow (450 rpm)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14874998*
> @ TwoCables ..i don't get why you advise ppl to run 140% CPU Current Capability for such a low OC's and LLC Ultra High, it's just insane (you may want ultra under fixed for super high OC's but offset..you don't)


The reason why I advise it is because 140% doesn't *do* anything. It just allows the CPU to pull as much power as it needs with absolutely no limit. It just raises the ceiling, so to speak. So, it is a "set it and forget it" kind of setting. There's nothing unsafe about using 140% unless you are on your own and are not seeking help.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14874998*
> the reason you found this combination to be successful "stable" is combination of both highest LLC/Current Capability (this way you won't freeze under light load and by pass the PPL overvoltage right ?)


I'm not using the highest LLC. I'm using Ultra High. The highest is Extreme which results in vRise.

I do not use Internal PLL Overvoltage.

To avoid BSODs and lock-ups while idling, set both C3 and C6 to either Auto or Disabled.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14874998*
> quote;
> Set Load-Line Calibration to "Ultra High" *(for 4.5~4.8 try medium,5.0+ high)*


Ultra High is about the best option because it reduces the vDroop the most while not allowing for any vRise. Using anything lower allows for more vDroop. Most people don't like vDroop, so that's why we use Ultra High.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14874998*
> Set VRM Frequency to "Manual"
> Set VRM Fixed Frequency Mode to "350"
> Set Duty Control to "Extreme"
> CPU Current Capability to "140%" *(100% up to 4.8)*
> Change CPU Offset Voltage to a manual setting instead of "Auto" (using "Auto" makes it use way too much voltage). Start with 0.005V...*(1.32~1.37v try +.01~.07<=keep bumping until you match fixed Vcore that you want +.02 is OK under offset for super stability)*


Instead of guessing, just do this:

Open Real Temp 3.67:

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667250

Click this until you see your VID:










Take your target voltage, and subtract your VID from it. My target voltage was 1.392V. So, 1.3561 subtracted from 1.392 equals 0.0359. Round that up, and you get 0.040. I am using an Offset of +0.040 right now, and my voltage under full load fluctuates between 1.392V and 1.400V. That's because I am using an LLC of Ultra High.

*Note:* You may need to put your CPU under load in order to get Real Temp to show you your actual VID.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14874998*
> PPL Overvoltage *(Auto up to 4.8 or Enabled*


Having it set to Auto means it is Enabled. Having it Enabled results in a slightly longer POST time. So that's what I see wrong with it. Do you like increasing your POST time for no reason? I know I don't.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14874998*
> give it a shot ,you may like it


Give what a shot? All of this?

No, but thank you anyway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14874998*
> on the side note ; about CPU PPL voltage ..try to change this from default if you find your system unstable


Actually, Internal PLL Overvoltage is more of a last-resort type of setting. It should only be enabled if you have exhausted all other recommended tweaks to get an unstable overclock to become stable.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14872079*
> Hi, chilidog!
> 
> Here are things I recommend doing right now:
> 
> Change your BCLK/PCIE Frequency to 100
> Disable Internal PLL Overvoltage
> Disable EPU Power Saving Mode
> 
> 
> Change CPU C1E to "Enabled"
> Change CPU C6 Report to "Auto"
> 
> 
> *Set Load-Line Calibration to "Ultra High"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set VRM Frequency to "Manual"
> Set VRM Fixed Frequency Mode to "350"
> Set Duty Control to "Extreme"
> CPU Current Capability to "140%"
> Change CPU Offset Voltage to a manual setting *instead* of "Auto" (using "Auto" makes it use way too much voltage). Start with 0.005V.
> Change your VCCIO to 1.100V. This is because you have your DRAM Voltage set to 1.6. I mean, 1.6 minus 0.5 equals 1.1. So use a VCCIO of 1.100V.
> Change CPU Spread Spectrum to "Enabled"
> 
> Ok, now regarding your memory, open CPU-Z and use the timings in the far-right column as shown in the example below (this is MY memory - yours will be different):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enter all of the settings you see in yours into the UEFI. The box that contains "42" in this screenshot (yours may have a different number) is a value that is not in the UEFI, so ignore it.
> 
> Please make all of these changes as soon as possible.


wow,just wow..no thank you ! some of us learn most of the tricks back in January
I'm not going to argue ,guess you learn this by reading "club"
hey if it works for you ,power to you:cheers:


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14875317*
> wow,just wow..no thank you ! some of us learn most of the tricks back in January
> I'm not going to argue ,guess you learn this by reading "club"
> hey if it works for you ,power to you:cheers:


No, I learned from more than just 1 source.

Where did you copy and paste that section from that you Quoted?

(by the way, a great deal of knowledge has been gained since January thanks to many people doing their own testing, trial & error!)


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14875317*
> wow,just wow..no thank you ! some of us learn most of the tricks back in January
> I'm not going to argue ,guess you learn this by reading "club"
> hey if it works for you ,power to you:cheers:


Troll.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14875337*
> No, I learned from more than just 1 source.
> 
> Where did you copy and paste that section from that you Quoted?


http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1012874-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-series-owners-352.html#post14872079
just trying to help ,to bad you took it the wrong way
sorry
Quote:


> (by the way, a great deal of knowledge has been gained since January thanks to many people doing their own testing, trial & error!)


you welcome
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753;14875387*
> Troll.


who's talking to you bud ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14875418*
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/1012874-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-series-owners-352.html#post14872079
> just trying to help ,to bad you took it the wrong way
> sorry


I wasn't _asking_ for help.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14875418*
> you welcome


I wasn't referring to you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14875418*
> who's talking to you budd ?


He's just making an observation. I honestly agree with him: it feels like all you want to do is troll me right now.


----------



## Kenji

Im deciding between the P8P67 and the P8Z68 Deluxe motherboards for my i7-2600K and 590GTX which would be best and easiest to OC on? Also need some great ram for the board any suggestions?

And last but not least a CPU cooler whats the best at the moment?


----------



## coolhandluke41

no you weren't ,someone else did..forget about it


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41;14875460*
> no you weren't ,someone else did..forget about it


Ok.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji;14875452*
> Im deciding between the P8P67 and the P8Z68 Deluxe motherboards for my i7-2600K and 590GTX which would be best and easiest to OC on? Also need some great ram for the board any suggestions?
> 
> And last but not least a CPU cooler whats the best at the moment?


Well the only difference between Z68 and P67 is that Z68 chipset can utilize CPU grapichs. So decide will you need them (faster rendering and such) or you don't
Good RAM would be Corsair Vengeance or Gskill Ripjaws-x

Best air coolers would be NH-D14 or Silver Arrow
Or corsair Hydro series like H80 (simple but effective CPU only watercooling)


----------



## TwoCables

The Z68 also has SSD Caching.


----------



## KG363

In a week it'll be a month since I sent my motherboard, which cost a small fortune to ship. I thought their RMA department was supposed to be good


----------



## Crabby654

I had a bit of a question. I am still fairly new to Intel chipsets.

In terms of performance gaining features is Z68 > P67?

I do notice a lot of people talk about SSD Caching but I am a bit unclear on what it is exactly.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;14877175*
> I had a bit of a question. I am still fairly new to Intel chipsets.
> 
> In terms of performance gaining features is Z68 > P67?
> 
> I do notice a lot of people talk about SSD Caching but I am a bit unclear on what it is exactly.


There's no performance difference, but SSD Caching can help with that. It's a feature where the SSD is literally used as the cache for a hard drive. This means the SSD is not a separate drive, but instead it means that the hard drive goes from having 16 MB, 32 MB, or 64 MB of cache to whatever the size is of the SSD (so, 64 GB, 128 gb, etc.). If I remember correctly, this also makes the hard drive seem just as fast as a solid state drive.

Although, this SSD Caching technology sounds like a temporary solution to me until larger SSDs are much more mainstream and are being sold at about 10¢ to 12¢ per gigabyte like many 500 GB hard drives instead of about $1.67 to $2.34 per gigabyte like many 120 GB solid state drives.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;14877175*
> I had a bit of a question. I am still fairly new to Intel chipsets.
> 
> In terms of performance gaining features is Z68 > P67?
> 
> I do notice a lot of people talk about SSD Caching but I am a bit unclear on what it is exactly.


Maybe this will explain things
Quote:


> Here's a simple explanation. SSD caching marries a conventional hard drive to a relatively small solid-state drive (SSD), with the most frequently-accessed data automatically placed on the SSD for fast access while the two drives appear to users simply as a single drive much like RAID 0. The functionality serves to bring users much of the speed benefit of SSDs but with the storage capacity and lower cost of traditional hard drives. Best of both worlds it seemed.


----------



## Crabby654

Ahh ok, thank you guys for the quick response!

I should have learned more about Intel chipsets before I bought everything a few months ago! But I figure maybe in a year or less I'll be buying a new mobo and an ivybridge probably.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;14877704*
> Ahh ok, thank you guys for the quick response!
> 
> I should have learned more about Intel chipsets before I bought everything a few months ago! But I figure maybe in a year or less I'll be buying a new mobo and an ivybridge probably.


Plus, I think that this is just a temporary technology while we wait for SSDs to become about as mainstream as today's 500 GB hard drives.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KG363;14876926*
> In a week it'll be a month since I sent my motherboard, which cost a small fortune to ship. I though their RMA department was supposed to be good


DAMN really? when I did the B2 to B3 swap it took 3 days including sending mine and receiving a new one.

I would get in contact with ASUS asap and find out what the hell is going on.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Any ETA on the next BIOS revision after 1850 beta?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KG363;14876926*
> In a week it'll be a month since I sent my motherboard, which cost a small fortune to ship. I thought their RMA department was supposed to be good


Where did you ship it?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14885002*
> Where did you ship it?


lol "will die soon"

now that all is well with your mobo and cpu, you should change it


----------



## KG363

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;14885002*
> Where did you ship it?


California I think


----------



## wrathling

hi all, anyone with much experience on the AI SUITE and monitoring like Probe II etc?

i received some weird alerts from it, and just questioning its reliability or if this is something to worry about.

examples from the Alert Log in Probe II:

[09.09.2011 at 08:55 am] CPU -1,0 Abnormal
[09.09.2011 at 08:56 am] CPU 27,0 Normal
[09.10.2011 at 04:12 am] Vcore 0,000 Abnormal
[09.10.2011 at 04:12 am] Vcore 0,976 Normal
[09.10.2011 at 04:53 am] +12V 0,096 Abnormal
[09.10.2011 at 04:53 am] +12V 12,192 Normal
[09.10.2011 at 05:21 am] Chassis fan 2 41990 Normal
[09.10.2011 at 07:19 am] +5V 0,000 Abnormal
[09.10.2011 at 07:20 am] +5V 5,040 Normal
[09.10.2011 at 09:12 am] +5V 0,000 Abnormal
[09.10.2011 at 09:13 am] +5V 5,040 Normal
[09.10.2011 at 11:54 am] MotherBoard -1,0 Abnormal
[09.10.2011 at 11:54 am] MotherBoard 31,0 Normal
[09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +12V 2,880 Abnormal
[09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +5V 0,000 Abnormal
[09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +12V 12,192 Normal
[09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +5V 5,000 Normal


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrathling;14887473*
> hi all, anyone with much experience on the AI SUITE and monitoring like Probe II etc?
> 
> i received some weird alerts from it, and just questioning its reliability or if this is something to worry about.
> 
> examples from the Alert Log in Probe II:
> 
> [09.09.2011 at 08:55 am] CPU -1,0 Abnormal
> [09.09.2011 at 08:56 am] CPU 27,0 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 04:12 am] Vcore 0,000 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 04:12 am] Vcore 0,976 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 04:53 am] +12V 0,096 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 04:53 am] +12V 12,192 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 05:21 am] Chassis fan 2 41990 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 07:19 am] +5V 0,000 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 07:20 am] +5V 5,040 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 09:12 am] +5V 0,000 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 09:13 am] +5V 5,040 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:54 am] MotherBoard -1,0 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:54 am] MotherBoard 31,0 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +12V 2,880 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +5V 0,000 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +12V 12,192 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +5V 5,000 Normal


Me and many others have experienced all those false alarms. I uninstalled it. HWiNFO 32/64 is a much better monitoring software.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;14885056*
> lol "will die soon"
> 
> now that all is well with your mobo and cpu, you should change it


6 months, still alive in 6 months and I'll change it








As for now, still one foot in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KG363;14886380*
> California I think


PM me the rma number if you want and I'll look into on Mon.


----------



## samuel002

Anyone has their 2500k clocked to 4.5ghz? I wanna clock it to 4.5.. as well since fall is coming..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;14889726*
> Anyone has their 2500k clocked to 4.5ghz? I wanna clock there as well since fall is coming..


4.5GHz should be easy. Use TwoCables template from the second post of this Club. Only change multi from x48 to x45, then find the lowest possible Vcore that will pass a 12 hours + run of Prime95 Blend.

If you can do the 1344KB and 1792KB FFT's for 15 minutes each, that is a good indication it will pass a regular 12 hours + run.


----------



## samuel002

Alright, but what are volts for 4.5ghz? like 1.3v? minimum? or higher?

and for prime95 I should use custom settings? and enter the numbers that you gave me?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;14890101*
> Alright, but what are volts for 4.5ghz? like 1.3v? minimum? or higher?
> 
> and for prime95 I should use custom settings? and enter the numbers that you gave me?


It will vary from CPU to CPU. Some can make 4.5GHz with only 1.25v, others needs as high as 1.4v for 4.5GHz. You will just have to find out what yours will require. 1.3v would probably be a good starting point though.


----------



## Nethermir

tried to push my cpu futher but i am already 1.416~ish on 4.7 ghz







(0.045v). is it still worth pushing? im thinking of just selling the cpu and get a new one.


----------



## samuel002

Oh alright.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14890245*
> tried to push my cpu futher but i am already 1.416~ish on 4.7 ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (0.045v). is it still worth pushing? im thinking of just selling the cpu and get a new one.


Really, not worth the hassle for a couple of hundred MHz extra. And even if you buy a new one, you could get unlucky and get an even worse one.

Yours is not that bad. These CPU's are so fast that some people don't even bother to overclock them because they cannot feel any difference beyond stock.


----------



## samuel002

Yeah I have it at stock for months I just want to learn how so I know later on.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14890283*
> Really, not worth the hassle for a couple of hundred MHz extra. And even if you buy a new one, you could get unlucky and get an even worse one.
> 
> Yours is not that bad. These CPU's are so fast that some people don't even bother to overclock them because they cannot feel any difference beyond stock.


yeah that's what i figured. i can run 12-hr prime on much lower vcore and i thought they're fine but i eventually needed 0.045v to be 24 hr stable. im sticking with the higher vcore. i guess ill just need to mess with my 6950 next


----------



## TheClap

I was wondering if you guys could help me reduce my temperatures. Im currently running at 4.5Ghz and with everything set to auto and while running Prime95 the CPU Voltage sits at about 1.36v. While stable, I think its a bit high so Im trying to reduce the voltage. Ive manually set the voltage to 1.290 and did a 2 hour Prime95 test and everything appeared stable.

Now Ive set the Core Voltage back to auto and the offset to - and the offset amount to .080 (I subtracted the VID shown in RealTemp from the voltage I was trying to get it to run at) and now it doesnt boot.

What gives?

EDIT: Ive changed the offset to .060 and itll boot now, but itll crash when I start IntelBurnTest.


----------



## Calistohelix

I have a P8Z68-V Pro with a i7-2600K that I just put together. I'm still a newbie overclocker for the most part. I OC'd my old C2Q Q6600 up to 2.9Ghz just playing with the FSB & VCore back in the day; and am not really familiar with the many many options afforded me at the moment.

At present, I have the CPU set to 4.2Ghz and set the VCore to 1.300v, and am running Prime95 as we speak to test for stability. The weird thing is that on post & in the bios, the CPU's clock is listed at ~3447 or something like that. The bulk of the voltage and other settings are at default, EPU & TPU are disabled.

What's really confusing me, is that CPUZ shows the voltage between 1.288-1.296v, while Core Temp is showing 1.3511v. The bios was showing 1.244 if I recall correctly.

Any advice on anything I'm misunderstanding, or tips for settings that I need to change?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14893535*
> I was wondering if you guys could help me reduce my temperatures. Im currently running at 4.5Ghz and with everything set to auto and while running Prime95 the CPU Voltage sits at about 1.36v. While stable, I think its a bit high so Im trying to reduce the voltage. Ive manually set the voltage to 1.290 and did a 2 hour Prime95 test and everything appeared stable.
> 
> Now Ive set the Core Voltage back to auto and the offset to - and the offset amount to .080 (I subtracted the VID shown in RealTemp from the voltage I was trying to get it to run at) and now it doesnt boot.
> 
> What gives?
> 
> EDIT: Ive changed the offset to .060 and itll boot now, but itll crash when I start IntelBurnTest.


it just means you need to keep adjusting that vcore. at 4.5 you will probably need to use + instead of -. just keep adjusting while using IBT (run maybe 10x), once you get that 'stable' then run prime95 for at least 12 hrs or leave it overnight.


----------



## TheClap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14894262*
> it just means you need to keep adjusting that vcore. at 4.5 you will probably need to use + instead of -. just keep adjusting while using IBT (run maybe 10x), once you get that 'stable' then run prime95 for at least 12 hrs or leave it overnight.


Well, when set to auto the mobo reduces the voltage (RealTemp reports a VID of 1.39ish and CPUZ says its getting 1.3ish) and I know it was stable at 1.295v.

Really, I just want lower idle temps, which I cant get with auto (auto gives it 1.04v at idle and I know Im stable as low as .928ish). I'll keep messing with it though.


----------



## Nethermir

i dunno why you are going for lower idle temps since idle temps mean nothing. im idling at 36F on the hottest core. you just need to be concerned with the load temps.


----------



## TheClap

Well it spends most of its time idling, and I think it may just be an OCD thing. I used to idle sub 30c when I was OCd to 4.3Ghz, but after increasing the multiplier to 45 I idle at about 35c.

I also noticed a 5c drop in load temps when I was at 1.295 so it would be kind of nice to get back there.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrathling;14887473*
> hi all, anyone with much experience on the AI SUITE and monitoring like Probe II etc?
> 
> i received some weird alerts from it, and just questioning its reliability or if this is something to worry about.
> 
> examples from the Alert Log in Probe II:
> 
> [09.09.2011 at 08:55 am] CPU -1,0 Abnormal
> [09.09.2011 at 08:56 am] CPU 27,0 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 04:12 am] Vcore 0,000 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 04:12 am] Vcore 0,976 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 04:53 am] +12V 0,096 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 04:53 am] +12V 12,192 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 05:21 am] Chassis fan 2 41990 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 07:19 am] +5V 0,000 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 07:20 am] +5V 5,040 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 09:12 am] +5V 0,000 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 09:13 am] +5V 5,040 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:54 am] MotherBoard -1,0 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:54 am] MotherBoard 31,0 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +12V 2,880 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +5V 0,000 Abnormal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +12V 12,192 Normal
> [09.10.2011 at 11:59 am] +5V 5,000 Normal


For every instance of "Abnormal", I can say this: if those values were true, then the system would not be able to turn on, much less _function_.









Unfortunately, software is unreliable like this - especially when it comes to those power supply voltages.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14894546*
> Well it spends most of its time idling, and I think it may just be an OCD thing. I used to idle sub 30c when I was OCd to 4.3Ghz, but after increasing the multiplier to 45 I idle at about 35c.
> 
> I also noticed a 5c drop in load temps when I was at 1.295 so it would be kind of nice to get back there.


I know you said everything is on Auto, but can you post all of your settings anyway? I'd like to see if I can simplify the changes just to get lower idle temps and maybe even lower load temps.

I'm very tired right now so I might not be able to help, however I also don't want to forget that you asked!


----------



## chillidog

ok update
i followed twocables input for manual oc adjusting the bits he reccomend
did prime for a while temps [email protected] on the highest core which was core 3
everything seem to be ok.untill the following morning got overclock failure on boot,windows did not want to start.so i had to revert back to defaults.
everything went back to norm.ran on auto defaults @4.2 for a while so i did another manual oc to instructions @[email protected] but again upon cold boot for some reason got high temp error (on boot up)so i reverted back to default and then ran auto oc again and stop @4.5
ran prime,realtemp,cpu-z.every thing seem to be ok @first got error message
(FATAL ERROR: Resulting sum was 6572782714493730, expected: 6511291970821162
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.)not sure what all this means but core 3 seem to be 5 degrees hoter than others.this was about 10-15 mins into prime.so i stop prime and then reran it.this time everything ran ok untill 1 hour got an error again but this time was.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.

so am not sure if all this is down to temp or what but always core 3 is the hottest out them all.
cpu-z showing [email protected]@ peak so am thinking is this the prob being a bit low OR have i got a bad chip?
any idea's lads


----------



## Rebel230

Hello, I am building my new system. I am using this:

Asus P8Z68 Deluxe BiOS 510 I believe
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB SSD Boot
WD Cavaiar black 1 Tb storage
PNY GTX 580 1.5 GB
16 Gb Corsair vengeance Ram
Corsair H100 liquid cooling
Corsair 600T white graphite case
Win 7 Home premium
LG Blu Ray drive

I literally just put the system together and for now I only attached the OCZ drive. I booted the system and it went through different cycles (it looked like it tried 2 different chipsets or something) where it said no drive detected. I looked in the bios and the only drive it sees in the LG blu ray drive. I left it at default hot plug disabled, and then hot plug enabled. Everything is brand new. I have never tried to use an SSD drive before, so I am totally lost.

Also, can someone explain to me (yes, as simple as possible) how I can flash the bios from 501 to 706 using a USB stick? Since I cannot get my ssd detected to install the OS I will try to flash the bios and see if that helps, but I dont know the proper way to do it with usb.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebel230;14897457*
> Hello, I am building my new system. I am using this:
> 
> Asus P8Z68 Deluxe BiOS 510 I believe
> OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB SSD Boot
> WD Cavaiar black 1 Tb storage
> PNY GTX 580 1.5 GB
> 16 Gb Corsair vengeance Ram
> Corsair H100 liquid cooling
> Corsair 600T white graphite case
> Win 7 Home premium
> LG Blu Ray drive
> 
> I literally just put the system together and for now I only attached the OCZ drive. I booted the system and it went through different cycles (it looked like it tried 2 different chipsets or something) where it said no drive detected. I looked in the bios and the only drive it sees in the LG blu ray drive. I left it at default hot plug disabled, and then hot plug enabled. Everything is brand new. I have never tried to use an SSD drive before, so I am totally lost.
> 
> Also, can someone explain to me (yes, as simple as possible) how I can flash the bios from 501 to 706 using a USB stick? Since I cannot get my ssd detected to install the OS I will try to flash the bios and see if that helps, but I dont know the proper way to do it with usb.


That's a solid build, but why you need 12gigs of ram?

Anyways in which ports you put your SSD and HDD? You should put them in Intel ports that are gray and blue.
Another thing, Sandforce based SSD have problems that will result BSODing


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebel230;14897457*
> Hello, I am building my new system. I am using this:
> 
> Asus P8Z68 Deluxe BiOS 510 I believe
> OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB SSD Boot
> WD Cavaiar black 1 Tb storage
> PNY GTX 580 1.5 GB
> 16 Gb Corsair vengeance Ram
> Corsair H100 liquid cooling
> Corsair 600T white graphite case
> Win 7 Home premium
> LG Blu Ray drive
> 
> I literally just put the system together and for now I only attached the OCZ drive. I booted the system and it went through different cycles (it looked like it tried 2 different chipsets or something) where it said no drive detected. I looked in the bios and the only drive it sees in the LG blu ray drive. I left it at default hot plug disabled, and then hot plug enabled. Everything is brand new. I have never tried to use an SSD drive before, so I am totally lost.
> 
> Also, can someone explain to me (yes, as simple as possible) how I can flash the bios from 501 to 706 using a USB stick? Since I cannot get my ssd detected to install the OS I will try to flash the bios and see if that helps, but I dont know the proper way to do it with usb.


now this might sound a stupid question but is the power supplie to the ssd drive cornected?
is the sata cable cornected?
have you cornected the sata cable to the correct slot on your board(check manual book)
have you ran and install all the drivers from your board disc?
i would check these silly things before you flash your bios.
when you do get the ssd working then flash.the flashing progress only take a few mins to do.you need to check your bios number first and then go to asus site and down load the update to a usb stick.
on mine i had to go into the bios and look for the bios flash progam(make sure your usb stick is in pc) go through the progress of finding your usb and then find the up date bios. highlight the file and press enter and then it will go through the produre of updating.

if you read your manual it should tell you the right way of doing this
but warning make sure that no power to the pc get turn off while updating the bios


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14897524*
> That's a solid build, but why you need 12gigs of ram?
> 
> Anyways in which ports you put your SSD and HDD? You should put them in Intel ports that are gray and blue.
> Another thing, Sandforce based SSD have problems that will result BSODing


16 gig of ram it says
thats alot of ram


----------



## Rebel230

I did it with only the SSD connected to one of the grey sata 3 ports. I have not connected the normal HDD yet. I have tried both grey ports and the SSD is not detected. I verified that it is connected to the power.


----------



## Rebel230

OK I was able to update the Asus bios to 706 with no problems. It still did not detect the OCZ vertex 3 drive. I used the same cable, power and port and connected the WD caviar black HDD and it picked it right up.

Is this a bad OCZ drive, or am I missing a setting?


----------



## ZO6ssd

Disconnect all SATA except the ssd to see if it is seen.

Does it show up in Device Manager? May need to add drivers.


----------



## turrican9

From now on, please send me a PM if you wanna join the Club, as it will be easier for me instead of keeping phase with all posts.

OP is updated with this information.

Thanks


----------



## Rebel230

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;14898919*
> From now on, please send me a PM if you wanna join the Club, as it will be easier for me instead of keeping phase with all posts.
> 
> OP is updated with this information.
> 
> Thanks


Ok, sorry about that.

When you say all sata, even the blu ray drive?


----------



## turrican9

*The_Scottish_Alchemist, Jalarebel, Stuuut, Arimis5226, Triig, DEEBS808, experience333 and Kastrup* added to the Club! Welcome people!









As I've said, I've changed OP. It now says that everyone who are to join this Club must send me a PM, ask to join and state what motherboard they have. This way there is lesser chance that I miss some posts from people asking to join.

If you cannot find your name on the list, and have asked to join earlier in the thread, please send me a PM, so I can add you









Thanks!


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rebel230*


OK I was able to update the Asus bios to 706 with no problems. It still did not detect the OCZ vertex 3 drive. I used the same cable, power and port and connected the WD caviar black HDD and it picked it right up.

Is this a bad OCZ drive, or am I missing a setting?


 i had a similar issue after updating bios. for some reason it set my ssd as the last boot option. so on bios (or uefi), check your boot priorities, make sure your ssd is set first or second.


----------



## TheClap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I know you said everything is on Auto, but can you post all of your settings anyway? I'd like to see if I can simplify the changes just to get lower idle temps and maybe even lower load temps.

I'm very tired right now so I might not be able to help, however I also don't want to forget that you asked!


Thanks, I appreciate it


































This is what Im trying to go for (although right now settings are as seen above):

















CPU Power Management Window:









And heres the CPU Configuration Windows:


----------



## Julez007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14903119*
> Thanks, I appreciate it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what Im trying to go for (although right now settings are as seen above):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU Power Management Window:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And heres the CPU Configuration Windows:


so these settings will go to 1600mhz?

because it seems that mine barely goes to 1600mhz while idling... once i start moving my mouse it kicks back up to 4500mhz.


----------



## TheClap

Yeah, I idle at 1600 and it basically only kicks to 4.5Ghz when Im gaming or stress testing.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebel230;14897457*
> Hello, I am building my new system. I am using this:
> 
> Asus P8Z68 Deluxe BiOS 510 I believe
> OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB SSD Boot
> WD Cavaiar black 1 Tb storage
> PNY GTX 580 1.5 GB
> 16 Gb Corsair vengeance Ram
> Corsair H100 liquid cooling
> Corsair 600T white graphite case
> Win 7 Home premium
> LG Blu Ray drive
> 
> I literally just put the system together and for now I only attached the OCZ drive. I booted the system and it went through different cycles (it looked like it tried 2 different chipsets or something) where it said no drive detected. I looked in the bios and the only drive it sees in the LG blu ray drive. I left it at default hot plug disabled, and then hot plug enabled. Everything is brand new. I have never tried to use an SSD drive before, so I am totally lost.
> 
> Also, can someone explain to me (yes, as simple as possible) how I can flash the bios from 501 to 706 using a USB stick? Since I cannot get my ssd detected to install the OS I will try to flash the bios and see if that helps, but I dont know the proper way to do it with usb.


What are all of your settings? When I say "all", I really mean it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14903119*
> Thanks, I appreciate it


Let's make these changes. The main reason for the following changes is to help a little bit with overclocking:

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*Internal PLL Overvoltage:* Disabled
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14903119*
> This is what Im trying to go for (although right now settings are as seen above):


You're very smart for using a manually-set Offset Voltage instead of Auto because an Auto offset voltage makes the voltage go much higher than it needs to be.

Let's try these changes:

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Duty Control:* Extreme
*CPU Current Capability:* 140% is safe because you're being helped by us!
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled (no real reason, but this ensures that it's always working)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14903119*
> CPU Power Management Window:


Hey, that's not the CPU Power Management area.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14903119*
> And heres the CPU Configuration Windows:


Let's disable Hyper-Threading unless you know you need it for certain things (there are no games that benefit from it right now). Hyper-Threading also increases temps and it slightly hinders gaming performance and overclocking potential.

Regarding the CPU Power Management: here's how I believe it should be configured for simple overclocks like ours:










I'm looking forward to your reply!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;14906388*
> so these settings will go to 1600mhz?
> 
> because it seems that mine barely goes to 1600mhz while idling... once i start moving my mouse it kicks back up to 4500mhz.


Wow. I haven't heard of this happening yet. Is your mouse connected to one of the USB 3.0 ports by chance? That's the only thing I can think of.


----------



## 0Amadeus0

Can I ask what is probably a stupid question?

I'm doing my first ever build here.

The mobo is Asus P8Z68- V PRO and i'm using a Noctua NH-D14 as my CPU cooler. The fans are 3 pin and the socket on the mobo is 4 pin.

Now according to the noctua FAQ you can just plug it in but there's a question mark on some mother boards controlling the fan speeds automatically.

I'm giving it a good google but i'm a bit unsure about the terminology here.

Do I need any special settings to use these fans?


----------



## Geeboi

The fans 3-pin connector will work fine,its just the pwm that won't work,need a 4-pin fan for the motherboard to control the fans.


----------



## 0Amadeus0

Hmm so I assume the fans will be going at 100% all the time then?

Maybe I should look into getting a fan controller that will take the 4 pwm signal and convert it.


----------



## Geeboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0Amadeus0;14909142*
> Hmm so I assume the fans will be going at 100% all the time then?


Yes,unfortunately.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0Amadeus0;14909142*
> Hmm so I assume the fans will be going at 100% all the time then?
> 
> Maybe I should look into getting a fan controller that will take the 4 pwm signal and convert it.


What fans are you using? Noctua fans are silent.
Anyways you say you have NH-D14 ... didn't you have a fan resistors @ 5V and 7V?
My noctua cooler came with to of one kind and two of other kind.


----------



## jaqob

What kind of times do you have before you see the bios/UEFI logo (for the first the first time) during boot? On mine P8P67 Pro, with a lot of stuff disabled, it takes about 15 seconds, which I find quite a lot.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaqob;14909577*
> What kind of times do you have before you see the bios/UEFI logo (for the first the first time) during boot? On mine P8P67 Pro, with a lot of stuff disabled, it takes about 15 seconds, which I find quite a lot.


ill echo what twocables said, post your settings and maybe we can find a thing or two to fix. on my pc, it takes about ~10 secs or so from pushing the power button up to my windows desktop.


----------



## 0Amadeus0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14909350*
> What fans are you using? Noctua fans are silent.
> Anyways you say you have NH-D14 ... didn't you have a fan resistors @ 5V and 7V?
> My noctua cooler came with to of one kind and two of other kind.


Well at the moment it's still in it's box but i've heard they're quiet.
I assumed at 100% they would make some noise though.

I could use the resistors true, but then I wouldn't be able to reach top speeds when needed.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaqob;14909577*
> What kind of times do you have before you see the bios/UEFI logo (for the first the first time) during boot? On mine P8P67 Pro, with a lot of stuff disabled, it takes about 15 seconds, which I find quite a lot.


15 seconds for me too. The reason why it takes this long is because it has to power on your stuff including your drives, then it has to _initialize_ your drives, and then prepare the system to perform the Power-On Self Test.

I think that this is normal, and I think the reason why you're noticing is because this board has a UEFI instead of a BIOS, and so you're kind of hyper-aware and are expecting it to be much faster.


----------



## jaqob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


ill echo what twocables said, post your settings and maybe we can find a thing or two to fix. on my pc, it takes about ~10 secs or so from pushing the power button up to my windows desktop.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


15 seconds for me too. The reason why it takes this long is because it has to power on your stuff including your drives, then it has to _initialize_ your drives, and then prepare the system to perform the Power-On Self Test.

I think that this is normal, and I think the reason why you're noticing is because this board has a UEFI instead of a BIOS, and so you're kind of hyper-aware and are expecting it to be much faster.


Here is a picture of my settings. Everything not shown is default. Bios version is 1704. The reason I think it takes to long time is that my old dell laptop is at the windows desktop before this motherboard even shows me the bios logo...

Booting with just the SSD (Crucial m4 128gb) installed does not change the time.

Timed the post state leds.

CPU_LED: On 0 sec Off 2 sec
DRAM_LED: On 2 sec Off 4 sec
VGA_LED: On 4 sec Off 8 sec
BOOT_DEVICE_LED: On 8 sec Off 15 sec
Windows Desktop ~22 sec

Nethermir, yours much be more or less instantaneous to reach the desktop in that time?

Edit: Why is my image resized?
Full size: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...ettingsdu.jpg/


----------



## Flyingtreks

Hi, Any of you guys enabling hot plug feature ? Apart from freezes any benefits to it ?


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm freezes?

I think I disabled mine because it kept showing the "removable hardware" tray icon and it annoyed the crap out of me.


----------



## Flyingtreks

lolz yea that icon.


----------



## Julez007

Quote:



Originally Posted by Julez007 View Post
so these settings will go to 1600mhz?

because it seems that mine barely goes to 1600mhz while idling... once i start moving my mouse it kicks back up to 4500mhz.
Wow. I haven't heard of this happening yet. Is your mouse connected to one of the USB 3.0 ports by chance? That's the only thing I can think of.


My mouse is not connected to usb 3.0... but here are my settings, maybe i missed something.


----------



## ASUSfreak

Count me in









And here are the settings I use to hit 5.2GHz (once for testing) and 5.0GHz for 24/7 Gaming

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...want-4ghz.html


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jaqob*


Here is a picture of my settings. Everything not shown is default. Bios version is 1704. The reason I think it takes to long time is that my old dell laptop is at the windows desktop before this motherboard even shows me the bios logo...

Booting with just the SSD (Crucial m4 128gb) installed does not change the time.

Timed the post state leds.

CPU_LED: On 0 sec Off 2 sec
DRAM_LED: On 2 sec Off 4 sec
VGA_LED: On 4 sec Off 8 sec
BOOT_DEVICE_LED: On 8 sec Off 15 sec
Windows Desktop ~22 sec

Nethermir, yours much be more or less instantaneous to reach the desktop in that time?

Edit: Why is my image resized?
Full size: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...ettingsdu.jpg/


Are you saying that you see the Windows desktop about 22 seconds after pressing the power button?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Hmm freezes?

I think I disabled mine because it kept showing the "removable hardware" tray icon and it annoyed the crap out of me.


That's solved by installing Intel's Rapid Storage Technology.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Are you saying that you see the Windows desktop about 22 seconds after pressing the power button?

That's solved by installing Intel's Rapid Storage Technology.










Hmm orly, I might need to try it. But are there benefits for having hot swap on? Someone said freeze fixes earlier?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Hmm orly, I might need to try it. But are there benefits for having hot swap on? Someone said freeze fixes earlier?


I have no idea.

Regarding RST: it will help improve performance a little too.


----------



## jaqob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Are you saying that you see the Windows desktop about 22 seconds after pressing the power button?


Yes. And of that time, 15 seconds are spent before POST.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jaqob*


Yes. And of that time, 15 seconds are spent before POST.


Yeah, same here. However, you see the desktop about 10 seconds before I do.


----------



## TheClap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14908854*
> Let's make these changes. The main reason for the following changes is to help a little bit with overclocking:
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> *Internal PLL Overvoltage:* Disabled
> You're very smart for using a manually-set Offset Voltage instead of Auto because an Auto offset voltage makes the voltage go much higher than it needs to be.
> 
> Let's try these changes:
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Duty Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 140% is safe because you're being helped by us!
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled (no real reason, but this ensures that it's always working)
> Let's disable Hyper-Threading unless you know you need it for certain things (there are no games that benefit from it right now). Hyper-Threading also increases temps and it slightly hinders gaming performance and overclocking potential.
> 
> Regarding the CPU Power Management: here's how I believe it should be configured for simple overclocks like ours:
> 
> I'm looking forward to your reply!


So I tried the things you suggested (although I left CPU Current Capacity at 130% since 140% is red and red is scary).

It boots and ran IBT (standard 5 pass, so nothing too major) but I didnt see a drop in temps which seems odd. And despite having the offset set to -.060 I CPUZ still reported the Core Voltage at 1.3something under heavy load.

While playing Red Orchestra 2 the CPU only hit 50c though so thats not too bad.


----------



## frandlv

Hi guys, sry i entered the club without an p8p67, but im from Argentina and i have an P8H67 mob with Intel 2500k micro.

I have problems with overclocking in the BIOS of my mother, because im not able to change the CPU Multiplier from 16-33!

i tried enable/disable most of the recommended options in the bios but no luck







, im still not able to change that f!"·"!Ckn cpu ratio above 33.......

Also tried with Turbo Evo soft, but this soft doesnt allow me to change the cpu ratio, only the BCLK and voltages...

my question is, my mother doesnt support edit the ratio value above the cpuid specifications, i mean values of the range 16-33¿?!¿!?¿

i want to reach 4ghz and i canttttttt!!!!

sry for my english!! tnx a lot


----------



## becandl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frandlv;14926295*
> Hi guys, sry i entered the club without an p8p67, but im from Argentina and i have an P8H67 mob with Intel 2500k micro.
> 
> I have problems with overclocking in the BIOS of my mother, because im not able to change the CPU Multiplier from 16-33!
> 
> i tried enable/disable most of the recommended options in the bios but no luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , im still not able to change that f!"·"!Ckn cpu ratio above 33.......
> 
> Also tried with Turbo Evo soft, but this soft doesnt allow me to change the cpu ratio, only the BCLK and voltages...
> 
> my question is, my mother doesnt support edit the ratio value above the cpuid specifications, i mean values of the range 16-33¿?!¿!?¿
> 
> i want to reach 4ghz and i canttttttt!!!!
> 
> sry for my english!! tnx a lot


You can't overclock the CPU on an H67 motherboard, only P67 and Z68 (for Sandy Bridge)


----------



## stupidolive

i'm an owner of p8z68 LE board and I'm having trouble adjusting as you guys suggest for 43x oc. is it b/c the board is LE that I cannot adjust the vcore manually and I can only use offset mode? also no VRM frequency...
thank you


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14924388*
> So I tried the things you suggested (although I left CPU Current Capacity at 130% since 140% is red and red is scary).


There is nothing unsafe about using 140% because you are not trying to do this by yourself. Instead, you're being wise and having others help you. Therefore, 140% is very safe. I know that it turns red, but ASUS programmed the UEFI to turn it red when you choose 140%.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14924388*
> It boots and ran IBT (standard 5 pass, so nothing too major) but I didnt see a drop in temps which seems odd.


I didn't really expect lower temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheClap;14924388*
> And despite having the offset set to -.060 I CPUZ still reported the Core Voltage at 1.3something under heavy load.


Then please post a screenshot of Real Temp 3.67 to show your VID.

To show the VID, click this button until the VID is displayed:










You will probably have to put some load on the CPU in order to get it to show your actual VID.


----------



## TheClap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


There is nothing unsafe about using 140% because you are not trying to do this by yourself. Instead, you're being wise and having others help you. Therefore, 140% is very safe. I know that it turns red, but ASUS programmed the UEFI to turn it red when you choose 140%.

I didn't really expect lower temps.

Then please post a screenshot of Real Temp 3.67 to show your VID.

You will probably have to put some load on the CPU in order to get it to show your actual VID.


Sorry about the huge, hopefully itll resize properly:









If it doesnt, RealTemp VID is 1.3961 and CPUZ is showing a vCore of 1.320 (which is as high as it went), so I guess its working. Temps are the same with or without hyperthreading oddly enough. I was really hoping for lower temps, as this is about (voltage and temp wise) what I was getting with auto settings (although I also had hyperthreading enabled when I was using auto).


----------



## TwoCables

Wow. 71Â°C with IBT at 1.320V is *very* good.


----------



## TheClap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14931194*
> Wow. 71°C with IBT at 1.320V is *very* good.


I guess Im just used to my E8400 which at 3.6Ghz on air cooling only hit 50c.

I got a little ballsy and dropped the offset down to -0.100 and the temps are _slightly_ lower (69c), but I only did 5 passes.

I thought lower voltage meant lower temperatures?

EDIT: I just want to add, thank you so much TwoCables for your help. Even if Im not seeing a temperature reduction, I know the lower voltages are prolonging the life of my CPU and I couldnt have done it without you.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheClap*


I guess Im just used to my E8400 which at 3.6Ghz on air cooling only hit 50c.


If you had the E8400 at 4.0 GHz, then you would have seen close to 70Â°C running IBT.







However, 70Â°C is still very safe.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheClap*


I got a little ballsy and dropped the offset down to -0.100 and the temps are _slightly_ lower (69c), but I only did 5 passes.

I thought lower voltage meant lower temperatures?


You only reduced the voltage by a tiny bit.







So I think a 2 degree drop is to be expected for this small of a voltage reduction.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheClap*


EDIT: I just want to add, thank you so much TwoCables for your help. Even if Im not seeing a temperature reduction, I know the lower voltages are prolonging the life of my CPU and I couldnt have done it without you.


You're very welcome!


----------



## Thalys

Here is my template for a safe cool and quiet i7 2600K 4,5GHz OC with HT enabled.









The system has ran Prime95 for more than 24hours with success.
The hottest core temp remains below 68Â°C (RealTemp).
Room temp approx 20Â°C.
VCore : approx 1.272V. (CPU-Z)

However TwoCables's template doesn't work for me even @4.5GHz; the system hangs at win7 boot time. I don't understand why !









Ai Tweaker
•Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual 
•BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0 
•Turbo Ratio: By All Cores 
•By All Cores: 45 
•Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled 
•Memory Frequency: 1600
•DRAM Timing Control: 9-9-9-24-2
•EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >
•CPU Ratio: Auto 
•Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled 
•Turbo Mode: Enabled 
•Long Duration Power Limit: Auto 
•Long Duration Maintained: Auto 
•Short Duration Power Limit: Auto 
•Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto 
•Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
•Load-Line Calibration: Auto 
•VRM Frequency: Auto 
•Phase Control: Extreme 
•Duty Control: T.Probe 
•CPU Current Capability: 100% 
•CPU Voltage: Offset Mode 
•Offset Mode Sign: + 
•CPU Offset Voltage: 0.010V 
•DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
•VCCSA Voltage: Auto 
•VCCIO Voltage: Auto 
•CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
•PCH Voltage: Auto 
•CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >
•CPU Ratio: Auto 
•Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled 
•Hyper-threading: Enabled 
•Active Processor Cores: All 
•Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled 
•Execute Disable Bit: Enabled 
•Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled 
•Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled 
•Turbo Mode: Enabled 
•CPU C1E: Enabled 
•CPU C3 Report: Auto 
•CPU C6 Report: Auto


----------



## texas_nightowl

Hello everyone! I'm a new P8Z68 board owner (the plain -V model). Received it Monday night and got it up and running just fine. Still stock while I get software loaded, add my second drive, etc. Here's a link to my build log thread:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-build-logs/1115640-corsair-400r-asus-p8z68-v-2500k.html

Now, the problem. Well, 2.

1. That stupid AI Suite package won't install. I only wanted it for the bios updater, but it won't install. I tried the "patcher" but even after, the AI Suite still won't install. I'll live without and just used a USB key for my BIOS update.

2. And this is the bigger problem...One of the pins on the USB 3.0 header was bent. Or at least, it is now. I have to admit when I was plugging everything in, I did not examine the pins on the USB 3 header, just plugged the cable in (my Corsair 400r does have 2xUSB3 front panel ports). Well, when I went to insert a USB key to copy the bios rom onto, one of them did not recognize anything. The other worked fine.

I used the USB3 to USB2 adapter to plug into one of the USB2 headers and both ports worked fine. So that's when I took a look (had to grab a flashlight!) and sure enough, bent pin.

I didn't have any needle nose pliers at home last night...at least that I could find. But I'll borrow a pair from work and try to straighten it tonight. I'm kinda sorta tempted to go ahead and RMA it (newegg) but on the other hand....if it will straighten and not snap off, then that is obviously easier.

Everything else has been great. I haven't OC'd yet, but updated bios, drivers, etc. and benchmarked my M4 SSD. I have a CM Hyper 212+ and in an ambient temp of 25c, my cores are idling at 32-33c (reported by Core Temp).

Anyway, I'll be hanging out here to figure out how to OC as I've never done it before. Probably a pretty mild/moderate OC as compared to some, but we'll see!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;14934485*
> Hello everyone! I'm a new P8Z68 board owner (the plain -V model). Received it Monday night and got it up and running just fine. Still stock while I get software loaded, add my second drive, etc. Here's a link to my build log thread:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-build-logs/1115640-corsair-400r-asus-p8z68-v-2500k.html
> 
> Now, the problem. Well, 2.
> 
> 1. That stupid AI Suite package won't install. I only wanted it for the bios updater, but it won't install. I tried the "patcher" but even after, the AI Suite still won't install. I'll live without and just used a USB key for my BIOS update.


Ai Suite II isn't really worth it, but here's how to get it to install (it's counter-intuitive)

Run the patcher first
Reboot (at least, I _think_ you have to reboot afterward)
Attempt to install Ai Suite II
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;14934485*
> 2. And this is the bigger problem...One of the pins on the USB 3.0 header was bent. Or at least, it is now. I have to admit when I was plugging everything in, I did not examine the pins on the USB 3 header, just plugged the cable in (my Corsair 400r does have 2xUSB3 front panel ports). Well, when I went to insert a USB key to copy the bios rom onto, one of them did not recognize anything. The other worked fine.
> 
> I used the USB3 to USB2 adapter to plug into one of the USB2 headers and both ports worked fine. So that's when I took a look (had to grab a flashlight!) and sure enough, bent pin.
> 
> I didn't have any needle nose pliers at home last night...at least that I could find. But I'll borrow a pair from work and try to straighten it tonight. I'm kinda sorta tempted to go ahead and RMA it (newegg) but on the other hand....if it will straighten and not snap off, then that is obviously easier.
> 
> Everything else has been great. I haven't OC'd yet, but updated bios, drivers, etc. and benchmarked my M4 SSD. I have a CM Hyper 212+ and in an ambient temp of 25c, my cores are idling at 32-33c (reported by Core Temp).
> 
> Anyway, I'll be hanging out here to figure out how to OC as I've never done it before. Probably a pretty mild/moderate OC as compared to some, but we'll see!


Yikes. I'd be in over my head on this one.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14934840*
> Yikes. I'd be in over my head on this one.


Well, I'm no expert with tools, but hopefully I'll be able to straighten it. I really don't want to have to send the board back to newegg and wait for them to process it and send me another. As long as the pin doesn't break when I try, I guess I should be OK.


----------



## bored7one4

I have a external WD hard drive plug in and it takes forever to boot up. I've notice when I detect it the the mother board boots up much faster and doesnt have that 10 sec bios screen. is there any way to fix this?

thanks.


----------



## Infinite Jest

So I've been living with a 4.5 Ghz OC with PLL Overvoltage turned on, something which I've dealt with, but the cold boot issues I've been having as well as the inability to go into sleep mode have brought me to the end of my rope. Using the basic OC options laid out here, I am unable to achieve anything over the mid 4.3Ghz range (can't hit anything over a x43 multiplier on each core with 100.0 BCLK), no matter what any of the other settings in the digi+vrm menu or any of the offsets are (using turbo, not a constant OC) with PLL overvoltage off. Basically, anything over that, I can't get past the windows animation to my login screen. Do I have a crappy chip or am I just missing something?

I've currently switched back to all defaults (pretty much everything auto except the BLCK at 100.0 and Core at x43, as well as a VRM freq. of 350) and have a rock solid 4.3Ghz.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bored7one4;14936367*
> I have a external WD hard drive plug in and it takes forever to boot up. I've notice when I detect it the the mother board boots up much faster and doesnt have that 10 sec bios screen. is there any way to fix this?
> 
> thanks.


When it's connected, does it show up anywhere in the Boot tab in the UEFI?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest;14936394*
> 
> I've currently switched back to all defaults (pretty much everything auto except the BLCK at 100.0 and Core at x43, as well as a VRM freq. of 350) and have a rock solid 4.3Ghz.


Do you need VRM @ 350
I'm currently at 4.2GHz at Stock settings, so far no problems.


----------



## Duknov007

My pc successfully ran Prime95 for 24 hours. I was wondering if it is safe to enable Intel Virtualization Technology now. It was disabled during my tuning phase. The system is at 4.5 GHz with an offset core (1.320 peak) voltage and all CPU C states set to "auto". I plan on running Linux in VMware. I would assume I can safely tick that option to "enabled."











Note that those temps were during a major heat wave with 100 degrees Fahrenheit+ temperatures outdoors (room was without ac and probably in the upper 80s).

Notable settings:
Internal PLL Overvoltage = Disabled
Load-Line Calibration = High
Phase Control = Extreme
Offset Mode Sign = -
CPU Offset Voltage = 0.005

Edit: This is not in relation to my sig rig. It will be listed under my systems.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;14936255*
> Well, I'm no expert with tools, but hopefully I'll be able to straighten it. I really don't want to have to send the board back to newegg and wait for them to process it and send me another. As long as the pin doesn't break when I try, I guess I should be OK.


Yeah, it did not go well....it was beyond repair before I even tried this evening.

Apparently I should have just gone to bed last night when I first found the problem instead of trying to straighten it with a tool that was not designed for the job and then trying to plug it back in. Because when I went in tonight, it was beyond repair ... ie. broken off.

So I guess I'm going to try my luck with a Newegg RMA.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bored7one4*


I have a external WD hard drive plug in and it takes forever to boot up. I've notice when I detect it the the mother board boots up much faster and doesnt have that 10 sec bios screen. is there any way to fix this?

thanks.


that's normal.


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;14940504*
> Yeah, it did not go well....it was beyond repair before I even tried this evening.
> 
> Apparently I should have just gone to bed last night when I first found the problem instead of trying to straighten it with a tool that was not designed for the job and then trying to plug it back in. Because when I went in tonight, it was beyond repair ... ie. broken off.
> 
> So I guess I'm going to try my luck with a Newegg RMA.


I ended up with a bent pin in my pcie 16x2 slot (the very last pin by its lonesome) when I was reseating my gpus. I fought with that sucker for 2 hours with a dental pick, a bent safety pin, and a sewing needle. In the end I got it to work again. Problem was, with the bent pin, the OS wasn't recognizing the GPU in the second slot. I would see fan speeds, but nothing else. Was wierd. After swapping stuff around and ruling out everything but the mobo being physically altered somehow, I noticed the pin. I'm glad I didn't have to RMA. Sorry to hear the bad luck with the usb pin. Those pins are far less flexible, for sure. Sucks to have to pull the mobo out and put everything back together again. Everytime I have to do it and I'm not upgrading something, my blood starts to boil. :/


----------



## tnblues

Hello I would like to join this club have I have asus z68 v pro Thanks


----------



## Julez007

I don't know if this has been brought up already... so forgive my ignorance. My bios is showing my cpu temp at 30c... asus suite II is showing it also at 30c.... core temp is showing 38c and realtemp also at 38c...

bios = 30c
asus suite II = 30c
coretemp = 38c
realtemp = 38c

ummmm.... which one should i consider accurate because im confused as hell...lol

The weird thing is i recently switched cpu coolers from cooler master n520 to corsair h80 and they both have the same idle temps on REALTEMP AND CORETEMP but under load the h80 is 10 degrees cooler...

p.s. can i join!?!

If i'm reading this correctly from the CORE TEMP website, it might not show temps lower than 30-40 degrees.?.?

Quote:



This is how the program works:

Intel defines a certain Tjunction temperature for the processor. This value is usually in the range between 85Â°C and 105Â°C. In the later generation of processors, starting with Nehalem, the exact Tjunction Max value is available for software to read in an MSR (short for Model Specific Register).
A different MSR contains the temperature data. The data is represented as a Delta in Â°C between current temperature and Tjunction.

So the actual temperature is calculated like this 'Core Temp = Tjunction - Delta'

The size of the data field is 7 bits. This means a Delta of 0 - 127Â°C can be reported in theory. In fact the reported temperature can rarely go below 0Â°C and in some cases (Core 2 - 45nm series) temperatures below 30Â° or even 40Â°C are not reported.


http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/howitworks.html


----------



## hmar

Hi,

I got my I7 2600K overclocked to 5.00GHz, (50x100) however core voltage is going up to 1.610V and with load tester and 8 threads temperatures are up to 81°, memory is at 1.2V.

Some advise please ?

hmar


----------



## Gastoncapo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar;14957835*
> Hi,
> 
> I got my I7 2600K overclocked to 5.00GHz, (50x100) however core voltage is going up to 1.610V and with load tester and 8 threads temperatures are up to 81°, memory is at 1.2V.
> 
> Some advise please ?
> 
> hmar


1.6v ??? holy cow!! its gonna blow up!!! start lowering you vcore to ..1.37 ..start from there..see how it goes.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gastoncapo;14957965*
> 1.6v ??? holy cow!! its gonna blow up!!! start lowering you vcore to ..1.37 ..start from there..see how it goes.


Or he can just put the multi up to 55 or so XD JK. Definitely set voltage to manual and drop it th 1.37 and go from there.


----------



## capitalj

Just a quick question: is it possible to use the onboard video + dual output from say a 560ti to have a three monitor setup? My friend's gigabyte board got fried and he wants to run three monitors without buying another GPU.

Thanks!

edit - so something like HDMI from the P8Z68 to the TV, then the 560ti with dual dvi for the monitors?


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

Hi there, Time to OC memory I saw few options on the AI-tab in my motherboard I wanted to increase mhz in memory manually but I found out that that it only give me to choose between the pre stablish profiles like 1600mhz-1866-2133, but nothing between them.

I have now my memories (check my rig) they are not low voltage version of 1.25. As I saw in many REVIEWS out there:



Any recommendation to jump it to 1866mhz, how to set it voltage, or timmings?


----------



## axerik5

Is this a fluke? Typically I give it 12hrs and consider it stable, but I had to go to work, which made a longer than expected test:










Wish I had stopped the test early, ignorance is bliss


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster*


Hi there, Time to OC memory I saw few options on the AI-tab in my motherboard I wanted to increase mhz in memory manually but I found out that that it only give me to choose between the pre stablish profiles like 1600mhz-1866-2133, but nothing between them.

I have now my memories (check my rig) they are not low voltage version of 1.25. As I saw in many REVIEWS out there:



Any recommendation to jump it to 1866mhz, how to set it voltage, or timmings?


Overclocking your memory could be fun, but you won't feel any real-world differences.

However, the best way to overclock your memory is to start increasing the BCLK. Although, try to stay below approximately 107 or 108. Fortunately, you may never need to go much higher than 105! As you change the BCLK, check the available memory clocks in the Memory Frequency menu.









If you want to do this, then first you have to disable the following to help with stability:

CPU Spread Spectrum
Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology
CPU C1E
Now of course you will likely need to increase the DRAM Voltage and you may need to loosen the timings a bit as well.


----------



## DEEBS808

Here is some pics.Need to work on it.Just wanted to finish it and get it going(first build).


----------



## paradoxum

hi

I have a P8P67 PRo v3 and in the manual it says the recommended ram configuration is slot 2 and slot 4 for two sticks of ram, i've always used slot 1 and 3, should I use slot 2 and 4 or does it not really matter?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;14967231*
> hi
> 
> I have a P8P67 PRo v3 and in the manual it says the recommended ram configuration is slot 2 and slot 4 for two sticks of ram, i've always used slot 1 and 3, should I use slot 2 and 4 or does it not really matter?


It matters for stability. Using slots 1 and 3 on these boards is exactly the same as using 2 and 4 on previous generation dual channel boards. Slots 2 and 4 are the main slots now.

This is an intentional design because the socket is closer to the memory slots now.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14967244*
> It matters for stability. Using slots 1 and 3 on these boards is exactly the same as using 2 and 4 on previous generation dual channel boards. Slots 2 and 4 are the main slots now.
> 
> This is an intentional design because the socket is closer to the memory slots now.


got it thanks


----------



## becandl

Just got my P8P67, and loving it! Gonna get overclocking soon.

Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;14962328*
> Overclocking your memory could be fun, but you won't feel any real-world differences.
> 
> However, the best way to overclock your memory is to start increasing the BCLK. Although, try to stay below approximately 107 or 108. Fortunately, you may never need to go much higher than 105! As you change the BCLK, check the available memory clocks in the Memory Frequency menu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to do this, then first you have to disable the following to help with stability:
> 
> CPU Spread Spectrum
> Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology
> CPU C1E
> Now of course you will likely need to increase the DRAM Voltage and you may need to loosen the timings a bit as well.


Thanks buddy,but if I only can go up to 105 BCLK I could only reach few MHz (1680) in memory OC, by the way I would like to set it with 1866mhz but I can't make it stable, I setted with 1.6500mV but I can't let it boot.

I thought that maybe Ocing memory I could have 1 FPS more while gaming or some more performance, in the daily use...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster;14968530*
> Thanks buddy,but if I only can go up to 105 BCLK I could only reach few MHz (1680) in memory OC, by the way I would like to set it with 1866mhz but I can't make it stable, I setted with 1.6500mV but I can't let it boot.
> 
> I thought that maybe Ocing memory I could have 1 FPS more while gaming or some more performance, in the daily use...


1 extra frame per second is not noticeable. Now 5 more? Maybe. 10 more? For sure, but not 1 more.

Anyway, every teeny tiny little adjustment to the BCLK changes what clocks you can choose from in the Memory Frequency menu. So make a tiny adjustment, check the Memory Frequency window. Make another tiny adjustment, check the Memory Frequency window. Keep doing this to see what I mean.







You'll find that you can seriously fine-tune the memory frequency in the tiniest of increments.

Anyway, if you want to just shoot straight for 1866, then you have to loosen the timings down to at least CL9 or CL10. For example, my 1866MHz memory is 9-11-9-29-1T *at stock*. So overclocking 1600MHz memory to 1866MHz might mean you'll need some slightly looser timings than that.

*Also*, try to keep your VCCIO Voltage no more than 0.5V apart from the DRAM voltage. So with a DRAM Voltage of 1.65V, the VCCIO Voltage may need to be 1.15V. All you have to do is subtract 0.5 from whatever DRAM Voltage you're trying to use. This isn't absolutely necessary, but it is recommended.


----------



## paradoxum

is version 1850 the latest for the B3 revision P8P67 board?

also my keyboard won't work on the windows login screen, it works fine in the bios and the lights on the keyboard are all on, but it just doesn't work at the login screen so I can't get in to windows :/

any ideas?

thanks


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


is version 1850 the latest for the B3 revision P8P67 board?

also my keyboard won't work on the windows login screen, it works fine in the bios and the lights on the keyboard are all on, but it just doesn't work at the login screen so I can't get in to windows :/

any ideas?

thanks


Yes that's the latest, thought it's been a while, Asus should have made a newer stable BIOS version.

Is your keyboard PS2 or USB... if it's USB try to connect to PS2
Have you installed all drivers?


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


Yes that's the latest, thought it's been a while, Asus should have made a newer stable BIOS version.

Is your keyboard PS2 or USB... if it's USB try to connect to PS2
Have you installed all drivers?


I used another keyboard to login and installed a bunch of drivers from the disc, works fine now. thanks


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

I've got a real solid x46 OC using TwoCables' original template (from the second post on this thread) and my p8z68v pro board and 2600k. The settings I've changed are:

By All Cores: 46 (versus 48)
DRAM timing: (2x 4GB corsair vengence @ 1600 9-9-9-24-2T)
Secondary Plane Current Limit: Auto (not listed in template)
CPU Offset Voltage: +0.010 (versus 0.040)
DRAM Voltage: 1.50
VCCSA Voltage: N/A (not list in my bios)

This has held up to 20 iterations of IBT @ very high stress level (4096MB) with Xtreme enabled as well as a 12 hour blend.

I'd like to try pushing this a little higher but I got repeated BSOD or Windows would fail to boot using the original template (x47 and x48, offset +0.040).

So what should I try next? Manually setting VCCIO? Pushing the offset higher?


----------



## szubster

Hi, I've got problem with my new P8P67 Pro.
I bought it two monts ago and haven't overclocked yet(beacouse of stock cooling, will try later).
And today while playing stalker my pc suddenly shut down and don't want to post again.
I already tried booting it with another psu, changed placing of RAM, removed and installed CPU ad GPU again and clearing CMOS.
The only led flashing is Standby Power LED. After pressing power button there is no reaction from system, except a little spin from GPU and CPU fan. They don't even make a whole turn and stop. It takes maybe a second.
Strange thing is that when I removed all cables from PSU and put them in again I forgot about the 12V CPU one. And the PC came alive, but the CPU LED was red and I couldn't POST... After inserting 12v CPU cable same again. Dead....
What else can I do? Is it MB or CPU?

P.S.
Sorry for my English...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szubster;14979787*
> Hi, I've got problem with my new P8P67 Pro.
> I bought it two monts ago and haven't overclocked yet(beacouse of stock cooling, will try later).
> And today while playing stalker my pc suddenly shut down and don't want to post again.
> I already tried booting it with another psu, changed placing of RAM, removed and installed CPU ad GPU again and clearing CMOS.
> The only led flashing is Standby Power LED. After pressing power button there is no reaction from system, except a little spin from GPU and CPU fan. They don't even make a whole turn and stop. It takes maybe a second.
> Strange thing is that when I removed all cables from PSU and put them in again I forgot about the 12V CPU one. And the PC came alive, but the CPU LED was red and I couldn't POST... After inserting 12v CPU cable same again. Dead....
> What else can I do? Is it MB or CPU?
> 
> P.S.
> Sorry for my English...


I can't speak from experience, but it sounds like the CPU died. It may have been defective from the start.

I recommend returning the CPU to the store saying that it is "defective".


----------



## szubster

It won't be so easy to return it to shop, because I bought in a wholesale, but I will go tomorrow to local shop and ask them to try it another MB.
If it won't work I see I will have to drive to the wholesale...


----------



## szubster

CPU works in another MB at my local shop. So it's the P8P67...


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szubster;14987293*
> CPU works in another MB at my local shop. So it's the P8P67...


That's bad. So off you go and RMA that thing
Anyways It would be interesting to know what was wrong with the board.


----------



## szubster

I think that something is making short circuits, PSU detects that and shuts the thing off. And this is probably something near CPU(because without 12V CPU cables PC "boots" but hangs with CPU LED).
Next thing that tells me that is that when I used my second PSU(something cheap) the lights on the board starts for a moment. Like some detector in the PSU have slower reaction.
Anyway tomorrow I will get it directly to the service and pray that they will replace it without that twoo week waiting...
Sadly in Poland there is no direct ASUS service for PC components and it almost always takes longer than should to replace stuff.


----------



## merwan

add me here, got a asus p8p67 pro! thanks


----------



## SmasherBasher

Is anyone having issues with enabling SLI on a P8P67-Evo? I can't seem to get it working.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;15008648*
> Is anyone having issues with enabling SLI on a P8P67-Evo? I can't seem to get it working.


What kind of issue's? Which driver are you using?


----------



## SmasherBasher

There's no SLI opton in NCP with the newest WHQL.


----------



## chillidog

ok let's start off 
did try the oc the way twocables template adjusting one or two things for my set up.i did get 4.7 ok for a while untill i was geting cold boot blue screens.so i went back down to ai suite auto clock @4.3 that seem to be ok for a while in the mean time did prime on both options but got 1 worker always on worker 3 and i keep getting this:FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
temps always seem to be ok max on 65-68
so i did intelburn test but that pass ok,so am not sure whats going on here
it always seem when i turn the pc off @night then when i turn the pc on the following day.
could this be down to ram,cpu,ssd,?
i can play games on full ok no problems with temps,etc.
i can really need some help to get us get @least 4.5 on manual oc and stable.
forgot to say when i get the bcod i restart the pc then i get windows error something on the line about windows repair then it come up with system retore.i go through the progress of this then windows starts back ok
i really don't know what is going on here.








tried contacting asus support and just get the run around


----------



## merwan

cant install ai suite ii, why is that? trying to update bios


----------



## claymanhb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *merwan*


cant install ai suite ii, why is that? trying to update bios


Probably a good thing as ai suite sucks. Just put the bios on a flash drive.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Arimis5226

AI suite is good for manually adjusting stuff in the OS (voltages/Mult) while you're trying to find sweet spots, but the auto OC options and 99% of the other features are garbage from my experience. Just sayin, it's a heck of a lot easier than reloading BIOS over and over again. I just adjust things until I crash, and then next reload, go back to my last good config. Is this bad?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


There's no SLI opton in NCP with the newest WHQL.


Did you get a prompt in the taskbar, something about SLI capable system?

I would recommend trying the 275.33 driver or hit the review button in my sig to find the 'best' one for you. Again what GPU's do you have?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arimis5226*


AI suite is good for manually adjusting stuff in the OS (voltages/Mult) while you're trying to find sweet spots, but the auto OC options and 99% of the other features are garbage from my experience. Just sayin, it's a heck of a lot easier than reloading BIOS over and over again. I just adjust things until I crash, and then next reload, go back to my last good config. Is this bad?


I don't see anything wrong with that.


----------



## Break

Quick question, I was considering getting a sound card for my PC but just realised it might not fit due to SLI.

You guys think this card: http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Sound+Cards/Creative+Sound+Blaster+X-Fi+Titanium+-+Fatal1ty+Professional+Series+7.1+Sound+Card+%2870SB088600000%29+?productId=43688 will fit between my 570s: http://postimage.org/image/2yvmz8t6s/ and run okay?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;15016736*
> Quick question, I was considering getting a sound card for my PC but just realised it might not fit due to SLI.
> 
> You guys think this card: http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Sound+Cards/Creative+Sound+Blaster+X-Fi+Titanium+-+Fatal1ty+Professional+Series+7.1+Sound+Card+%2870SB088600000%29+?productId=43688 will fit between my 570s: http://postimage.org/image/2yvmz8t6s/ and run okay?


could you not use the top slot PCIe x1?









Quote:


> 2 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8)
> 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, black) *1
> 2 x PCIe x1
> 2 x PCI


----------



## chillidog

just an update
i did some messing around and i think i have sorted out my problems out. so far i have oc @4.5 ran prime for 6 hours and no failed workers like i did last times.ran intellburn test 6 times on high and all reports come back as fine. also i have not yet had any cold boot or start ups bsod.temps seem to be ok max on real temp on core 3 is 70 the rest are 64.
as my luck change for good.vcore on 1.33.max
before my [email protected] always shown before in bios @1633 for some reason but now only showing [email protected]

is it too soon to







about time will tell


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;15016736*
> Quick question, I was considering getting a sound card for my PC but just realised it might not fit due to SLI.
> 
> You guys think this card: http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Sound+Cards/Creative+Sound+Blaster+X-Fi+Titanium+-+Fatal1ty+Professional+Series+7.1+Sound+Card+%2870SB088600000%29+?productId=43688 will fit between my 570s: http://postimage.org/image/2yvmz8t6s/ and run okay?


why do you need a sound card for?
your board has one built in


----------



## Break

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;15016802*
> could you not use the top slot PCIe x1?


I completely forgot about those mini PCIe slots, I think it would be fine in there. I wonder if it would affect the graphics cards in any way, like steal bandwidth or something.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15011566*
> ok let's start off
> did try the oc the way twocables template adjusting one or two things for my set up.i did get 4.7 ok for a while untill i was geting cold boot blue screens.so i went back down to ai suite auto clock @4.3 that seem to be ok for a while in the mean time did prime on both options but got 1 worker always on worker 3 and i keep getting this:FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
> Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
> temps always seem to be ok max on 65-68
> so i did intelburn test but that pass ok,so am not sure whats going on here
> it always seem when i turn the pc off @night then when i turn the pc on the following day.
> could this be down to ram,cpu,ssd,?
> i can play games on full ok no problems with temps,etc.
> i can really need some help to get us get @least 4.5 on manual oc and stable.
> forgot to say when i get the bcod i restart the pc then i get windows error something on the line about windows repair then it come up with system retore.i go through the progress of this then windows starts back ok
> i really don't know what is going on here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tried contacting asus support and just get the run around


It is actually a waste of time to do that repair because there is nothing to repair. The problem is caused by instability and nothing else, so that is why it doesn't find anything to repair. So from now on, just tell Windows to start normally when that happens.

*Important:* every single time that happens, I strongly recommend choosing Restart from within Windows once it is booted back up (that is, once it is booted back up after telling it to start normally from that black and white prompt at the beginning). If you don't, then you'll eventually run into worse problems.

Anyway, please post all of your current UEFI settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merwan;15012333*
> cant install ai suite ii, why is that? trying to update bios


I recommend avoiding Ai Suite II, but if you absolutely want to have it installed, then do this:

Attempt the installation.
Allow it to fail.
Run the so-called Patcher
I think it requires a reboot. So if it does, then reboot.
Re-attempt the Ai Suite II installation
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15016861*
> just an update
> i did some messing around and i think i have sorted out my problems out. so far i have oc @4.5 ran prime for 6 hours and no failed workers like i did last times.ran intellburn test 6 times on high and all reports come back as fine. also i have not yet had any cold boot or start ups bsod.temps seem to be ok max on real temp on core 3 is 70 the rest are 64.
> as my luck change for good.vcore on 1.33.max
> before my [email protected] always shown before in bios @1633 for some reason but now only showing [email protected]
> 
> is it too soon to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about time will tell


The reason it was showing as 1633 is likely because the BCLK was not at 100.

Anyway, 6 hours of Prime95 is actually not good enough.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15016892*
> why do you need a sound card for?
> your board has one built in


Any recommended sound card is going to be quite noticeably superior to the onboard audio. So it's not a matter of _needing_ a sound card, but it's a bit like the difference between onboard video and an actual video card.


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

Hi,

Has anyone had any success fitting the EK Mosfet waterblock to the P67 DELUXE?

I have a EK waterblock and don't want to let it goto waste so I'm looking for a P67 MOBO

I don't see a reason for it not fitting but EK says it wont fit because the board is a different design? It however does fit the EVO & PRO.

It will be a big disappointment if it doesn't fit as i will then need to settle for the EVO which is only $4 cheaper!


----------



## chillidog

just another update from last post.
so far everything is working as it should be:no cold boots,no bsod,etc
thx twocables for your replies for some reason the bclk was on 100.0 but reverts back to 103.0 don't ask why or how i got no answer for it as i always save the settings when exit the bios.
as to prime i did manage 11 hours and a great inprovement than befor.normally i would get an error on worker 3 as mentioned before.
so a run down prime95 for 11 hours and no errors.ran intelburn on very high about 5 times now and the reults came back ok. and the [email protected] max was 68.
all i done is changed one or two things in twocables template i took the chance and hoped and so far it as worked.
so am going to [email protected] for a week and see how it go's and then i will try for 4.6/4.7

i do highly recommend this forum for the help that people give out becouse by going to asus support you don't get an straight answer to your problem you just get the run around


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


just another update from last post.
so far everything is working as it should be:no cold boots,no bsod,etc
thx twocables for your replies for some reason the bclk was on 100.0 but reverts back to 103.0 don't ask why or how i got no answer for it as i always save the settings when exit the bios.


You're welcome!

I think it's being applied by Ai Suite II. So if you still have it installed, then I recommend uninstalling it as soon as possible.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


as to prime i did manage 11 hours and a great inprovement than befor.normally i would get an error on worker 3 as mentioned before.
so a run down prime95 for 11 hours and no errors.ran intelburn on very high about 5 times now and the reults came back ok. and the [email protected] max was 68.
all i done is changed one or two things in twocables template i took the chance and hoped and so far it as worked.
so am going to [email protected] for a week and see how it go's and then i will try for 4.6/4.7


To be honest, I don't see any reason why you can't just shoot straight for 4.7 GHz. Post all of your settings and we'll work on it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


i do highly recommend this forum for the help that people give out becouse by going to asus support you don't get an straight answer to your problem you just get the run around










I think that the reason why OCN is better is because we are truly very passionate about these things.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Hmm...I just noticed last night that my base clock is also set to 103 and even though I try to change it I couldn't. And, AI Suite wouldn't install for me, so it's not AI Suite doing it.


----------



## stariz

Hey guys, I recently built a PC with the P8Z68-V PRO and am having a problem with what appears to be the on-board sound. There is this faint static/high pitched beeping sound coming from my speakers at all times and is independent of any volume settings - it is present even when all sound is muted. It is not that loud, but it is enough to be really annoying. I originally suspected the speakers; however, the annoying sound is not present when I plug them into my laptop or my friends PC.

I tried installing the latest Realtek drivers but it made no difference. I tried all the audio jacks and muted all inputs/outputs in soundcard management with no success.

I then suspected a grounding loop and connected my PC to various mains in my apartment and at a friends place, but the sound was still there. I then figured I would take apart everything and assemble it outside my case one piece at a time, testing the speakers along the way. This proved useless as my minimal system with only the PSU, CPU, ram, boot drive, and stock fan (I swapped out my hyper 212+ to rule it out as well) still caused the background noise through my speakers. I also tried an alternate PSU on this minimal system with no success.

An interesting note is that when my cpu load is high, the noise goes away. For example, when I run prime95, the noise goes away completely and my speakers function normally. Also, if I change a setting in Realtek HD audio manager, the sound goes away while it reloads devices (normal sound/music is still audible during the reloading of devices phase so its not just a general mute of all sound).

The next thing I am going to try before I resort to getting a separate soundcard or something is to maybe change the CPU throttling settings. What do you think about this idea? considering that the sound seems to be present during idle, I could eliminate any power saving functions. My idle core voltage is ~0.9V atm which seems kind of low right?

What about flashing the new 0606 BIOS? I am currently using 0501. I didn't do this right away as I didn't want to risk being stuck with a BIOS error and not being able to go back to 0501.

And just to make my post even longer... I noticed something strange in the BIOS. One of my CHA_FAN monitors seems to be bugging out. It will randomly flash to max speed 19640RPM for a second then go back to its normal ~1015RPM. The fan is functioning normally on physical inspection though. I'm not to worried about this error though as it is inconsequential; the speaker static sound is about as annoying as it gets in terms of problems though.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

PS. This is all on stock speeds, I haven't started overclocking anything yet.


----------



## chillidog

as requested
set up for 4.6 so far a good and stable oc














































sorry their not in the correct order. one day i will work how to do it

test results with intelburn test etc:



















so far with messing around with these adjustments i have not had any bsod,no double boots,no cold start up errors etc ai is still installed but i have not touch it at all.i have gone from 4.5 yesterday to 4.6 today and all test came back ok.just core 3 was a bit hot @73.
so am going to run @4.6 for a few days now and then pump it up 4.7/4.8 may be.
oh by the way windows boot to windows 9.8 sec's


----------



## Seabass74

Thought I'd just say I just built my first build a week ago and this forum was just great for helping me with a couple problems I was having with my MOBO. So I thought I'd join! Next step is to try and OC a little!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seabass74;15028861*
> Thought I'd just say I just built my first build a week ago and this forum was just great for helping me with a couple problems I was having with my MOBO. So I thought I'd join! Next step is to try and OC a little!


welcome to OCN, nice rig you got there!!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15028654*
> as requested
> set up for 4.6 so far a good and stable oc


I recommend the following changes:

Duty Control to Extreme
CPU Current Capability to 140%. There's nothing harmful when using this setting because you are receiving help from others.
CPU Manual Voltage: please use a manual voltage and not "Auto". Try to avoid "Auto" core voltages!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15028654*


I recommend the following change:

Load-Line Calibration to High (not Ultra High or Extreme, but High)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15028654*


This looks perfect!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15028654*


Please disable Internal PLL Overvoltage as it is not providing any benefit. All it is doing right now is making your POST time about 1-2 seconds longer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15028654*


I recommend the following changes:

CPU C1E to Enabled
CPU C6 Report to Auto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15028654*
> sorry their not in the correct order. one day i will work how to do it
> 
> test results with intelburn test etc:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so far with messing around with these adjustments i have not had any bsod,no double boots,no cold start up errors etc ai is still installed but i have not touch it at all.i have gone from 4.5 yesterday to 4.6 today and all test came back ok.just core 3 was a bit hot @73.
> so am going to run @4.6 for a few days now and then pump it up 4.7/4.8 may be.
> oh by the way windows boot to windows 9.8 sec's


That voltage of 1.384V is exactly why a core voltage of Auto should not be used. This overclock absolutely does not need that much. It's not a dangerous voltage, but it's certainly overkill. This is how overkill it is: my CPU needs 1.384V at minimum to achieve stability 4.8 GHz!









Anyway, there's one more thing that I haven't told you yet and I apologize for it: Intel Burn Test is a giant waste of time. To make matters worse, 5 runs is not a test; it's just a really quick check on stability while you are in the middle of tweaking your overclock; it is never a final test.

Furthermore, I highly recommend Real Temp 3.67 which has been specifically designed for Sandy Bridge:

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667250

Finally, if you absolutely insist on using Intel Burn Test, then you have to use this one to get any kind of effectiveness:

http://gigaflopd.com/downloads/ibt/

Although, it requires Windows 7 with SP1. However, Prime95 does not require SP1 and it's more effective than IBT.









Anyway, please make all of those changes I listed above and let's see what happens. For the core voltage, we need to start somewhere, so let's try getting CPU-Z to show 1.336V under full load.


----------



## GOTFrog

Just wondering was looking at the P8Z68-v pro and the P8P67 pro. I don't think that ill be using the 2 main feature of the z68 will I regret going with the P67. How well does it OC a 2500k, trying to cut down cost or the wife wont let me buy even tho my rig is dead.

A bit Off topic but do I need 8gigs of ram or will I be good with just 4, I know with my rig never saw the need to have more than 4.

Thx

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog;15029663*
> Just wondering was looking at the P8Z68-v pro and the P8P67 pro. I don't think that ill be using the 2 main feature of the z68 will I regret going with the P67. How well does it OC a 2500k, trying to cut down cost or the wife wont let me buy even tho my rig is dead.
> 
> A bit Off topic but do I need 8gigs of ram or will I be good with just 4, I know with my rig never saw the need to have more than 4.
> 
> Thx
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk


You will be more than fine with the p67 and 4gb of ram is good too. People just have 8 or so b/c it is cheap now.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15029383*
> I recommend the following changes:
> 
> Duty Control to Extreme
> CPU Current Capability to 140%. There's nothing harmful when using this setting because you are receiving help from others.
> CPU Manual Voltage: please use a manual voltage and not "Auto". Try to avoid "Auto" core voltages!
> 
> I recommend the following change:
> 
> Load-Line Calibration to High (not Ultra High or Extreme, but High)
> 
> This looks perfect!
> 
> Please disable Internal PLL Overvoltage as it is not providing any benefit. All it is doing right now is making your POST time about 1-2 seconds longer.
> 
> I recommend the following changes:
> 
> CPU C1E to Enabled
> CPU C6 Report to Auto
> 
> That voltage of 1.384V is exactly why a core voltage of Auto should not be used. This overclock absolutely does not need that much. It's not a dangerous voltage, but it's certainly overkill. This is how overkill it is: my CPU needs 1.384V at minimum to achieve stability 4.8 GHz!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, there's one more thing that I haven't told you yet and I apologize for it: Intel Burn Test is a giant waste of time. To make matters worse, 5 runs is not a test; it's just a really quick check on stability while you are in the middle of tweaking your overclock; it is never a final test.
> 
> Furthermore, I highly recommend Real Temp 3.67 which has been specifically designed for Sandy Bridge:
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667250
> 
> Finally, if you absolutely insist on using Intel Burn Test, then you have to use this one to get any kind of effectiveness:
> 
> http://gigaflopd.com/downloads/ibt/
> 
> Although, it requires Windows 7 with SP1. However, Prime95 does not require SP1 and it's more effective than IBT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, please make all of those changes I listed above and let's see what happens. For the core voltage, we need to start somewhere, so let's try getting CPU-Z to show 1.336V under full load.


HI TWOCABLES
ok so how or what voltage do i need to start off with to get cpu-z to show 1.336v or do i just key in 1.336v in the manual core voltage box then save & exit?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog;15029663*
> Just wondering was looking at the P8Z68-v pro and the P8P67 pro. I don't think that ill be using the 2 main feature of the z68 will I regret going with the P67. How well does it OC a 2500k, trying to cut down cost or the wife wont let me buy even tho my rig is dead.


The P8P67 Pro is the most-recommended board for Sandy Bridge overclocking. How well it overclocks the 2500K will depend on the 2500K, but it is a very, very, very good board.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog;15029663*
> A bit Off topic but do I need 8gigs of ram or will I be good with just 4, I know with my rig never saw the need to have more than 4.
> 
> Thx
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk


4 GB is perfect right now.

The only reason why I have 8 GB is because I saw Crysis 2's _recommended_ system requirements being 8 GB of memory, but I've never seen my total memory usage exceed like 2.5 GB or so.

In other words, I could have easily gotten away with 4 GB and still had more than enough for Crysis 2 (that is, with it maxed out using DX11 and the High Res Textures).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15029930*
> HI TWOCABLES
> ok so how or what voltage do i need to start off with to get cpu-z to show 1.336v or do i just key in 1.336v in the manual core voltage box then save & exit?


Hey!









I don't know. All you have to do is try voltages that are slightly higher. You'll nail it after 3-4 tries. All you have to do is select a voltage, boot into Windows, open CPU-Z and Prime95 and then start Prime95. Each time you'll be able to see the full-load voltage and then you'll see whether or not you nailed it on that try.

It is easier than I am making it sound.


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;14977665*
> I've got a real solid x46 OC using TwoCables' original template (from the second post on this thread) and my p8z68v pro board and 2600k. The settings I've changed are:
> 
> By All Cores: 46 (versus 48)
> DRAM timing: (2x 4GB corsair vengence @ 1600 9-9-9-24-2T)
> Secondary Plane Current Limit: Auto (not listed in template)
> CPU Offset Voltage: +0.010 (versus 0.040)
> DRAM Voltage: 1.50
> VCCSA Voltage: N/A (not list in my bios)
> 
> This has held up to 20 iterations of IBT @ very high stress level (4096MB) with Xtreme enabled as well as a 12 hour blend.
> 
> I'd like to try pushing this a little higher but I got repeated BSOD or Windows would fail to boot using the original template (x47 and x48, offset +0.040).
> 
> So what should I try next? Manually setting VCCIO? Pushing the offset higher?


Bumping this since I didn't see any responses. The system mentioned above (not sig rig) freezes while booting windows (the four color windows thingy stops animating) at x47 but is happy as can be at x46. I've tried pushing the offset to +0.080 but no luck. So do I have a CPU that can't make it past x46? How far can I push the offset?


----------



## Sevens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stariz*


Hey guys, I recently built a PC with the P8Z68-V PRO and am having a problem with what appears to be the on-board sound. There is this faint static/high pitched beeping sound coming from my speakers at all times and is independent of any volume settings - it is present even when all sound is muted. It is not that loud, but it is enough to be really annoying. I originally suspected the speakers; however, the annoying sound is not present when I plug them into my laptop or my friends PC.

I tried installing the latest Realtek drivers but it made no difference. I tried all the audio jacks and muted all inputs/outputs in soundcard management with no success.

I then suspected a grounding loop and connected my PC to various mains in my apartment and at a friends place, but the sound was still there. I then figured I would take apart everything and assemble it outside my case one piece at a time, testing the speakers along the way. This proved useless as my minimal system with only the PSU, CPU, ram, boot drive, and stock fan (I swapped out my hyper 212+ to rule it out as well) still caused the background noise through my speakers. I also tried an alternate PSU on this minimal system with no success.

An interesting note is that when my cpu load is high, the noise goes away. For example, when I run prime95, the noise goes away completely and my speakers function normally. Also, if I change a setting in Realtek HD audio manager, the sound goes away while it reloads devices (normal sound/music is still audible during the reloading of devices phase so its not just a general mute of all sound).

The next thing I am going to try before I resort to getting a separate soundcard or something is to maybe change the CPU throttling settings. What do you think about this idea? considering that the sound seems to be present during idle, I could eliminate any power saving functions. My idle core voltage is ~0.9V atm which seems kind of low right?

What about flashing the new 0606 BIOS? I am currently using 0501. I didn't do this right away as I didn't want to risk being stuck with a BIOS error and not being able to go back to 0501.

And just to make my post even longer... I noticed something strange in the BIOS. One of my CHA_FAN monitors seems to be bugging out. It will randomly flash to max speed 19640RPM for a second then go back to its normal ~1015RPM. The fan is functioning normally on physical inspection though. I'm not to worried about this error though as it is inconsequential; the speaker static sound is about as annoying as it gets in terms of problems though.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

PS. This is all on stock speeds, I haven't started overclocking anything yet.


I've seen some people complaining about high pitch sound coming from their motherboard.
They fixed it by setting
the vcore in manual 1.20v
LLC(load line calibration) : high/ultra high.
phase control : extreme.
You can also try to put "cpu spread spectrum" on enabled


----------



## Sevens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime*


Bumping this since I didn't see any responses. The system mentioned above (not sig rig) freezes while booting windows (the four color windows thingy stops animating) at x47 but is happy as can be at x46. I've tried pushing the offset to +0.080 but no luck. So do I have a CPU that can't make it past x46? How far can I push the offset?


Do you have pll overvoltage enabled ?


----------



## merwan

ok on my box says asus p8p67 pro (rev. 3.0) and on asus website the 3.1

is it still ok to download drivers from the 3.1 rev? even bios?


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevens*


Do you have pll overvoltage enabled ?


I currently have it disabled as that seems to be what is recommended in general. I will try enabling it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stariz*


Hey guys, I recently built a PC with the P8Z68-V PRO and am having a problem with what appears to be the on-board sound. There is this faint static/high pitched beeping sound coming from my speakers at all times and is independent of any volume settings - it is present even when all sound is muted. It is not that loud, but it is enough to be really annoying. I originally suspected the speakers; however, the annoying sound is not present when I plug them into my laptop or my friends PC.

I tried installing the latest Realtek drivers but it made no difference. I tried all the audio jacks and muted all inputs/outputs in soundcard management with no success.

I then suspected a grounding loop and connected my PC to various mains in my apartment and at a friends place, but the sound was still there. I then figured I would take apart everything and assemble it outside my case one piece at a time, testing the speakers along the way. This proved useless as my minimal system with only the PSU, CPU, ram, boot drive, and stock fan (I swapped out my hyper 212+ to rule it out as well) still caused the background noise through my speakers. I also tried an alternate PSU on this minimal system with no success.

An interesting note is that when my cpu load is high, the noise goes away. For example, when I run prime95, the noise goes away completely and my speakers function normally. Also, if I change a setting in Realtek HD audio manager, the sound goes away while it reloads devices (normal sound/music is still audible during the reloading of devices phase so its not just a general mute of all sound).

The next thing I am going to try before I resort to getting a separate soundcard or something is to maybe change the CPU throttling settings. What do you think about this idea? considering that the sound seems to be present during idle, I could eliminate any power saving functions. My idle core voltage is ~0.9V atm which seems kind of low right?

What about flashing the new 0606 BIOS? I am currently using 0501. I didn't do this right away as I didn't want to risk being stuck with a BIOS error and not being able to go back to 0501.

And just to make my post even longer... I noticed something strange in the BIOS. One of my CHA_FAN monitors seems to be bugging out. It will randomly flash to max speed 19640RPM for a second then go back to its normal ~1015RPM. The fan is functioning normally on physical inspection though. I'm not to worried about this error though as it is inconsequential; the speaker static sound is about as annoying as it gets in terms of problems though.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

PS. This is all on stock speeds, I haven't started overclocking anything yet.


I have the same board (p8z68v pro) and use the integrated sound, but have not noticed any whine. The fact that the sound goes away (or the frequency gets too high to hear easily) does sound like a power 'leak'. I have also noticed the wierd RPM spikes on one of my fans. It is a 3 pin but is plugged into a 4 pin socket.

Upgrading your bios to 606 is strongly recommended as it includes an update to the Intel RST firmware. I had no problems with it although you need to be careful if you have a RAID configuration. After flashing the bios, make sure you don't allow windows to boot until you have re-enabled RAID. Also note that the RST update requires both the BIOS update and the latest RST drivers for windows. Both are available on the Asus site the last time I checked.


----------



## stariz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevens*


I've seen some people complaining about high pitch sound coming from their motherboard.
They fixed it by setting
the vcore in manual 1.20v
LLC(load line calibration) : high/ultra high.
phase control : extreme.
You can also try to put "cpu spread spectrum" on enabled


No luck... I'll try updating the BIOS as TooManyToys NotEnoughTime suggested.

Can a leak be fixed by a BIOS change though? I would have thought that it would be faulty circuitry or something.

I'm not using raid btw - using AHCI.


----------



## stariz

Reset CMOS, flashed 0606... speakers still make stupid sound. I have a P8Z68-V LE that I can test things on in a week or two (and then maybe send my V PRO back for testing... does that mean im out of the club while i'm using the v-le?







), but until then I don't know what else to test. If I just put in a separate sound card would the leak still be picked up? although I would probably want the root of the issue fixed as opposed to just avoiding it.


----------



## Sevens

Did you try with EIST/C1E/C3/C6 off ?


----------



## stariz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevens*


Did you try with EIST/C1E/C3/C6 off ?


Yes, this gets rid of the sound. The whining sound is completely gone with these speed stepping features off in any situation. What's strange though is any video on my screen causes the scratchy sound to happen - even the flash add on the main page of overclock.net causes the scratchy sound. I played a youtube vid on mute and I can hear it (the whining sound never happens though); just sitting on desktop or anywhere without video, there is no sound what so ever. Sound like video card problems? Although I was getting the sound with my card disconnected before running onboard graphics :S

It's very pleasant but I don't know how functional this fix is. I heard overclocks aren't very stable with these features disabled right? It was my intention to start overclocking once I had this issue resolved.


----------



## Sevens

You could check your dpc latency with dpc latency checker
There is some usefull info as well about audio drop-out etc...
You can have an overclock stable without these features,its just that some people report better results with them(c1e/eist) enabled.
The main problem of this "workaround" is the power wasted :/


----------



## stariz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevens*


You could check your dpc latency with dpc latency checker
There is some usefull info as well about audio drop-out etc...
You can have an overclock stable without these features,its just that some people report better results with them(c1e/eist) enabled.
The main problem of this "workaround" is the power wasted :/


Yah I would like to avoid any workaround if possible as the board is new, so it should work. Does anyone think I will get any love if I just RMA the board? I ask because I suspect it will pass all the tests they run on it and a leak is going to be hard to find.

I ran DPC latency checker; no problems there it seems.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *merwan*


ok on my box says asus p8p67 pro (rev. 3.0) and on asus website the 3.1

is it still ok to download drivers from the 3.1 rev? even bios?


The only difference in drivers is the USB 3.0 (ASMedia, NEC).

As for BIOSes, they're incompatible because of this. Don't even try.


----------



## chillidog

TWOCABLES
Hey! [IMG alt="smile.gif" said:


> https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
> 
> I don't know. All you have to do is try voltages that are slightly higher. You'll nail it after 3-4 tries. All you have to do is select a voltage, boot into Windows, open CPU-Z and Prime95 and then start Prime95. Each time you'll be able to see the full-load voltage and then you'll see whether or not you nailed it on that try.
> 
> It is easier than I am making it sound.


i have changed the settings you recommend and i have tried to input voltages from 1.27 up to 1.37 but i get bsod upon restarting . so i had revert back to my old settings.not sure what's wrong here.
but on my old settings everything seem to run ok.apart from the core voltage in cpu-z showing @max 1.38-1.40?


----------



## merwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;15035522*
> The only difference in drivers is the USB 3.0 (ASMedia, NEC).
> 
> As for BIOSes, they're incompatible because of this. Don't even try.


thank you for this. could have bricked my mobo with wrong bios file! rep+


----------



## Seabass74

I have a couple Questions. (Supernoob to Overclocking)

1) Should I update the BIOS even though my Rig is running smoothly?
2) Does the AI Suite II Auto overclock feature work well? I'm not trying to push my chip too far. 4.0-4.3 would be cool with me.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seabass74;15038276*
> I have a couple Questions. (Supernoob to Overclocking)
> 
> 1) Should I update the BIOS even though my Rig is running smoothly?
> 2) Does the AI Suite II Auto overclock feature work well? I'm not trying to push my chip too far. 4.0-4.3 would be cool with me.


1) If you realy feel the need to get a newer BIOS. although sometimes updating BIOS could make OC more stable.

2) If you want to do 4.0-4.3GHz you don't need Auto OC or whatever, just go to BIOS and type in your frequency. You can use stock settings up to 4.1GHz easly. (atleast for me, and if you're lucky you could use stock voltage with CPU current capability 120% and go 4.3)


----------



## Seabass74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15038671*
> 1) If you realy feel the need to get a newer BIOS. although sometimes updating BIOS could make OC more stable.
> 
> 2) If you want to do 4.0-4.3GHz you don't need Auto OC or whatever, just go to BIOS and type in your frequency. You can use stock settings up to 4.1GHz easly. (atleast for me, and if you're lucky you could use stock voltage with CPU current capability 120% and go 4.3)


Thanks, Ill give it a try this weekend!


----------



## paradoxum

can someone share some bios settings for overclocking an i5 2500k with a P8P67 Pro? just somewhere to start from, and what settings to enable/disable/set to auto etc


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15039222*
> can someone share some bios settings for overclocking an i5 2500k with a P8P67 Pro? just somewhere to start from, and what settings to enable/disable/set to auto etc


Check first threads, there should be OC template, some setting are very similar. except for voltages they are different for almost every CPU.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15039389*
> Check first threads, there should be OC template, some setting are very similar. except for voltages they are different for almost every CPU.


"first threads" = ??

anyway, i've been playing around and seem to be desktop stable at 5ghz @ 1.33vcore. how's that?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15039775*
> "first threads" = ??
> 
> anyway, i've been playing around and seem to be desktop stable at 5ghz @ 1.33vcore. how's that?


Looks like you have pretty low voltage. NICE but how stable it is?
Make a CPU-z validation for 4GHz Club








Here's the template.








Quote:


> *TwoCables* template for his stable Core i5 [email protected] overclock
> 
> Originally Posted by TwoCables
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
> Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
> DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
> DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto
> 
> Note: that Offset Voltage gets me a Core Voltage in CPU-Z of about 1.384V - 1.392V while under full load in Prime95's Blend. So be cautious and adjust accordingly.


----------



## paradoxum

should I use voltage offset instead of specifying the voltage? what's the difference?


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15040350*
> should I use voltage offset instead of specifying the voltage? what's the difference?


Offset voltage...that along with c1e support and intel speedstep allow for your cpu to down clock and use less voltage at idle. If it is manual then it won't use less voltage and it is just making heat for nothing.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


Offset voltage...that along with c1e support and intel speedstep allow for your cpu to down clock and use less voltage at idle. If it is manual then it won't use less voltage and it is just making heat for nothing.


I see, thanks. however if I use offset voltage and enable C1E then windows freezes upon loading the login screen, doesn't restart or anything just freezes. anything I can do? because i'd really prefer to use the down clock thing so it's not running at 5ghz all the time


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime*


Quote:



Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime*


I've got a real solid x46 OC using TwoCables' original template (from the second post on this thread) and my p8z68v pro board and 2600k. The settings I've changed are:

By All Cores: 46 (versus 48)
DRAM timing: (2x 4GB corsair vengence @ 1600 9-9-9-24-2T)
Secondary Plane Current Limit: Auto (not listed in template)
CPU Offset Voltage: +0.010 (versus 0.040)
DRAM Voltage: 1.50
VCCSA Voltage: N/A (not list in my bios)

This has held up to 20 iterations of IBT @ very high stress level (4096MB) with Xtreme enabled as well as a 12 hour blend.

I'd like to try pushing this a little higher but I got repeated BSOD or Windows would fail to boot using the original template (x47 and x48, offset +0.040).

So what should I try next? Manually setting VCCIO? Pushing the offset higher?


Bumping this since I didn't see any responses. The system mentioned above (not sig rig) freezes while booting windows (the four color windows thingy stops animating) at x47 but is happy as can be at x46. I've tried pushing the offset to +0.080 but no luck. So do I have a CPU that can't make it past x46? How far can I push the offset?


It depends on what core voltage the offset is giving you during full load (the voltage displayed by CPU-Z).

What voltage have you seen so far in CPU-Z while running something like Prime95? What was the Offset you were using at that time?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *merwan*


ok on my box says asus p8p67 pro (rev. 3.0) and on asus website the 3.1

is it still ok to download drivers from the 3.1 rev? even bios?


I would have to say no because even though all they supposedly changed is the USB 3.0 controller, there's no real way to know if they changed anything else. Plus, the BIOS for 3.1 will be expecting the different USB 3.0 controller.

Here's their page for Rev. 3.0:

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Int...155/P8P67_PRO/

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stariz*


Yes, this gets rid of the sound. The whining sound is completely gone with these speed stepping features off in any situation. What's strange though is any video on my screen causes the scratchy sound to happen - even the flash add on the main page of overclock.net causes the scratchy sound. I played a youtube vid on mute and I can hear it (the whining sound never happens though); just sitting on desktop or anywhere without video, there is no sound what so ever. Sound like video card problems? Although I was getting the sound with my card disconnected before running onboard graphics :S

It's very pleasant but I don't know how functional this fix is. I heard overclocks aren't very stable with these features disabled right? It was my intention to start overclocking once I had this issue resolved.


If you're not using onboard video, then I'd like to try and disable it or bypass it or something. I don't know what I'm doing, however this is what I would do first:

In the UEFI, navigate to Advanced > System Agent Configuration
Set "Initiate Graphic Adapter" to "PCIE/PCI"
Render Standy: I don't know what this is, but try "Disabled"
This may allow you to re-enable Enhanced Intel Speedstep and CPU C1E. C3 and C6 are not necessary, so they can be left disabled.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


i have changed the settings you recommend and i have tried to input voltages from 1.27 up to 1.37 but i get bsod upon restarting . so i had revert back to my old settings.not sure what's wrong here.
but on my old settings everything seem to run ok.apart from the core voltage in cpu-z showing @max 1.38-1.40?


So this was with every single change, including setting Load-Line Calibration to Ultra High?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Seabass74*


I have a couple Questions. (Supernoob to Overclocking)

1) Should I update the BIOS even though my Rig is running smoothly?


Nah. At least, I wouldn't.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Seabass74*


2) Does the AI Suite II Auto overclock feature work well? I'm not trying to push my chip too far. 4.0-4.3 would be cool with me.


I recommend just doing this directly in the UEFI because this Ai Suite II is kind of junk software in my opinion.

All you'd really need to do for this overclock is this:

Set Ai Overclock Tuner to Manual
Set Turbo Ratio to "By All Cores"
Set "By All Cores" to "43" (this will result in 4.3 GHz)
Set Internal PLL Overvoltage to "Disabled"
Choose your memory frequency from the Memory Frequency menu
Leave everything else the way it is for now and let's see what happens!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


should I use voltage offset instead of specifying the voltage? what's the difference?


To get started, you can use the Manual voltage instead of Offset. This will actually be helpful in figuring out what voltage you will ultimately need to get from an Offset for stability.

So let's say that you overclock and that you discover that you get the most stability with 1.392V under full load as displayed by CPU-Z. So then what you'd do after determining stability is you'd switch over to an Offset that results in 1.384V under full load.









It's easier than it sounds.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


So let's say that you overclock and that you discover that you get the most stability with 1.392V under full load as displayed by CPU-Z. So then what you'd do after determining stability is you'd switch over to an Offset that results in 1.384V under full load.









It's easier than it sounds.










ok, so with prime95 running and stable (so far, anyway, haven't run it for long) I get a voltage of 1.344 in cpu-z. what do I need to put as the offset voltage to get that under load?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


ok, so with prime95 running and stable (so far, anyway, haven't run it for long) I get a voltage of 1.344 in cpu-z. what do I need to put as the offset voltage to get that under load?


To find out, click this button in Real Temp until you see it display your VID:










_(this is Real Temp 3.67, which I highly recommend for all Sandy Bridge overclockers)_

You may need to have your CPU under full load in order for it to display your actual VID. Also, it will fluctuate a little bit. Mine fluctuates between 1.3511V and 1.3561V.

Once you discover what your VID is (which changes depending on which multiplier you are using), the Offset voltage to use is the difference between the VID and your target core voltage, which is 1.344V right now.

So if your VID is the same as mine at 1.3561V, then the difference between 1.3561 and 1.344 is 0.0121. The UEFI uses increments of 0.005V, so you'd use an Offset of either -0.010V to -0.015 (using the minus Offset sign instead of Plus).

*Note:* you may need to keep Load-Line Calibration at Ultra High for this to work as I described. Using lower LLC levels like Medium or High will require "larger" Offset values to make up for the vDroop.


----------



## paradoxum

I played around but 90% of the time it freezes on windows logo, even if I upped it to ultra high or increased the offset past what I calculated. i've got it set to 1.350v manual right now and it runs at 1500mhz when not under load, but the voltage stays at 1.350, is that okay?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


I played around but 90% of the time it freezes on windows logo, even if I upped it to ultra high or increased the offset past what I calculated. i've got it set to 1.350v manual right now and it runs at 1500mhz when not under load, but the voltage stays at 1.350, is that okay?


Can you boot with this voltage? If so, then yes.

Therefore, if you can boot with this voltage, we need to use an Offset that will result in this voltage.

However, both C3 and C6 need to be either Auto or Disabled.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Can you boot with this voltage? If so, then yes.

Therefore, if you can boot with this voltage, we need to use an Offset that will result in this voltage.

However, both C3 and C6 need to be either Auto or Disabled.


it's like I said though, I did use an offset that should have resulted in that voltage, it just kept freezing on windows logo. c3 and c6 are default still, which is auto.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


it's like I said though, I did use an offset that should have resulted in that voltage, it just kept freezing on windows logo. c3 and c6 are default still, which is auto.


What VID is Real Temp showing you?


----------



## paradoxum

I think I was going up from my offset when I should have been going down, it's at 0.020 now and seems to be ok.

something else I wanted to ask, is there any way to get the bios to boot faster? it shows the asus screen, flickers away, asus screen again, about 3 times before it actually starts windows, is there any way to speed that up?

thanks


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


I think I was going up from my offset when I should have been going down, it's at 0.020 now and seems to be ok.


What is the Offset Sign you are using?

Also, again: what is the VID that Real Temp is showing you?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


something else I wanted to ask, is there any way to get the bios to boot faster? it shows the asus screen, flickers away, asus screen again, about 3 times before it actually starts windows, is there any way to speed that up?

thanks


Disable the Marvell and JMB controllers inside of Advanced > Onboard Devices Configuration.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


What is the Offset Sign you are using?

Also, again: what is the VID that Real Temp is showing you?

Disable the Marvell and JMB controllers inside of Advanced > Onboard Devices Configuration.











wont the VID be different now that i'm using different voltage? right now it's 1.3611

also what is JBM? is it safe to disable it? I figure the marvell thing is for the hard drive sata ports?


----------



## FrostyGPU

just got a deluxe board couple of weeks ago







any recommendation on which BIOS to upgrade to I see there are some beta BIOS's on the site as well.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


wont the VID be different now that i'm using different voltage? right now it's 1.3611


The VID is not the current voltage. However, it should change depending on what multiplier you are using.

So your VID is 1.3611V. You want a voltage of 1.352V right? Therefore, the offset sign needs to be the minus sign, and your offset voltage needs to be about -0.010V.

However, this is provided that your LLC is on Ultra High.

If this fails, then you can increase the voltage by using -0.005V instead of -0.010V. Or alternatively, +0.005V (this would be using the Plus offset sign).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


also what is JBM? is it safe to disable it? I figure the marvell thing is for the hard drive sata ports?


If these were not safe to be disabled, then I would not allow myself to recommend disabling them.


----------



## lowirve

Sorry if this question has been asked before, but I am completely newbie to computer, and this is the first time I made my own desktop. I have been reading this thread for a while, and I notice on page 331 TwoCables showed some pics about how to speed up the booting. However, I have no idea how these hardware work, for example, what is Realtek lan controller? where should I use it? I know this question is newbie, and I don't expect anyone could explain this to me one by one. So I am just wondering where I can find info for these hardware. I have done some google, but couldn't find the right info I am looking for.

Thanks in advance, especially to TwoCables.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lowirve*


Sorry if this question has been asked before, but I am completely newbie to computer, and this is the first time I made my own desktop. I have been reading this thread for a while, and I notice on page 331 TwoCables showed some pics about how to speed up the booting. However, I have no idea how these hardware work, for example, what is Realtek lan controller? where should I use it? I know this question is newbie, and I don't expect anyone could explain this to me one by one. So I am just wondering where I can find info for these hardware. I have done some google, but couldn't find the right info I am looking for.

Thanks in advance, especially to TwoCables.


You're very welcome!

We have different motherboards, so you can ignore some of the things you saw in my screenshot, such as the Realtek LAN Controller.

From top to bottom in your motherboard's UEFI, here is what you have:

*HD Audio Controller* - this is the onboard audio
*Front Panel Type* - if you're using onboard audio, then it is very likely that you should leave this as "HD" just in case you want to use front panel audio on your case
*SPDIF Out Type* - it is likely that you're not using this
*Bluetooth Controller* - self-explanatory. If you're not using it, then you can disable it.
*PCI Express X16_3 slot (black) bandwidth *- Auto is the best setting
*JMB Storage Controller* - this is for eSATA
*JMB Storage OPROM* - I don't know.
*Display OptionRom in POST* - this displays some kind of information about the JMB controller during the motherboard's boot-up (the Power-On Self Test)
*Asmedia USB 3.0 Controller* - Disabling this disables the USB 3.0 ports
*Asmedia USB 3.0 Battery Charging Support* - Enabling this uses extra motherboard resources for charging USB 3.0 devices that have a rechargeable battery. The manual says the devices must comply with something called "the BC 1.1 regulation" which I know nothing about.
*Intel LAN Controller* - this is the ethernet port on your motherboard which you're probably using to provide internet access to your system
*Intel PXE OPROM* - I don't know, but I disabled mine to see what happens, and nothing happened. So disable yours.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrostyGPU;15043550*
> just got a deluxe board couple of weeks ago any recommendation on which BIOS to upgrade to I see there are some beta BIOS's on the site as well.


Well I'm using the latest beta BIOS and haven't seen any problems this far.


----------



## 0megaR0uter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15046960*
> Well I'm using the latest beta BIOS and haven't seen any problems this far.


+1 on the 1850 bios (I'm on a Pro version board though)... But so far no issues.


----------



## TwoCables

Same here. Beta with no problem!


----------



## chillidog

ok
done everything as to instructions (twocables)
prime95 for 9 hours all pass.
realtemp core's are 61.63.68.64 (core three allway's been hotter) than the other's.
cpu-z core voltage managed to get from from 1.384 down to 1.336v. a great inprovement.

and real temp is showing 1.3611 vid

this is @ 4.6 so far seems to be a great inprovement all round














lads for the help and info


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seabass74;15038276*
> I have a couple Questions. (Supernoob to Overclocking)
> 
> 1) Should I update the BIOS even though my Rig is running smoothly?
> 2) Does the AI Suite II Auto overclock feature work well? I'm not trying to push my chip too far. 4.0-4.3 would be cool with me.


i updated my bios to the new one 0606 and so far i have not seen any difference.









as to ai suite don't bother go into bios and select oc which will then autoclock around 4.3 stable


----------



## lowirve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15045750*
> You're very welcome!
> 
> We have different motherboards, so you can ignore some of the things you saw in my screenshot, such as the Realtek LAN Controller.
> 
> From top to bottom in your motherboard's UEFI, here is what you have:


Thx. You are always so nice.


----------



## Bigchrome

I'm running a P8Z68-V in my new build. Been gradually getting used to how different overclocking is on sandybridge but I think I have it down now. The problem is I can't get my 2500k to clock very well. I'm currently running 4.5ghz at 1.35v (1.325 under load) through 1.5hrs of linx (without AVX) but 4.8Ghz did not seem to want to stabilise at any reasonable voltage I tried.

Can anyone tell me if upgrading from the 0501 bios to the 0706 would help overclocking in any way or are there just minor bug fixes?


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevens*


Do you have pll overvoltage enabled ?


That was it: +Rep for you!

I thought I had a stable x48 but prime95 just errored out after 6 hours but I'm getting closer. Thanx!


----------



## owcraftsman

For P8Z68-V Pro users a new bios is out and works well. I flashed this AM and have been testing profiles. So far so good with 4.4 4.5 & 4.6 OCes appear to be as stable as before.

Source:

*BIOS 0706* released September 22, 2011
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...-ASUS-0706.zip

Release Notes
[ 0706 ]
----------------------
1. Fix FW54P PCI card compatibility issue
2. Fix the bug that the OEM activation version OS of window7 will hang at the "blue screen" if some graphics cards be installed in system.
3. Fix USB Keyboard 3R-FKB3010UBK can't work issue 
4. Fix Microsoft V1 receiver can't work issue 
5. Fix S3 can't resume if CPU PLL over voltage is enabled.
6. Fix the CPU and Chassis Fan speed will over the duty cycle setting range.
7. Fix CPU ratio always keep at lowest after S4 resume and AC power lost.
8. Improve DRAM compatibility.
9. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...Language=en-us

This BIOS should be posted on the Download site on September 24th.

Hope this helps!


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:



Quote:



Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:



Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyToys NotEnoughTime 
I've got a real solid x46 OC using TwoCables' original template (from the second post on this thread) and my p8z68v pro board and 2600k. The settings I've changed are:

By All Cores: 46 (versus 48)
DRAM timing: (2x 4GB corsair vengence @ 1600 9-9-9-24-2T)
Secondary Plane Current Limit: Auto (not listed in template)
CPU Offset Voltage: +0.010 (versus 0.040)
DRAM Voltage: 1.50
VCCSA Voltage: N/A (not list in my bios)

This has held up to 20 iterations of IBT @ very high stress level (4096MB) with Xtreme enabled as well as a 12 hour blend.

I'd like to try pushing this a little higher but I got repeated BSOD or Windows would fail to boot using the original template (x47 and x48, offset +0.040).

So what should I try next? Manually setting VCCIO? Pushing the offset higher?


Bumping this since I didn't see any responses. The system mentioned above (not sig rig) freezes while booting windows (the four color windows thingy stops animating) at x47 but is happy as can be at x46. I've tried pushing the offset to +0.080 but no luck. So do I have a CPU that can't make it past x46? How far can I push the offset?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


It depends on what core voltage the offset is giving you during full load (the voltage displayed by CPU-Z).

What voltage have you seen so far in CPU-Z while running something like Prime95? What was the Offset you were using at that time?




I guess that mass of questions didn't make total sense. I could never make it into Windows at x47/x48 so I don't know what my load voltage would be. The trick turned out to be _enabling_ PLL Overvoltage and then going back to your awesome template. I thought I had it stable at x48 with +0.065--passed prime95 1344 and 1792 FFTs @ 90% available memory with a vcore around 1.42--but she died about 6 hours into a full blend test.

I gonna try going to +0.070 but thats probably going to push my voltage and temperatures higher than I'd like for folding. I think I read in one of your posts that ~1.425v is the limit recommended for 24/7 @ 100% load?

Thanx!


----------



## I Am A Noob

Broke down today and purchased i5-2500k & P8P67.
Pretty sure I made the right choice. I don't want to mess with SLI in the future. Too much power draw and I wouldn't put up with the studdering.
Now i need a GPU to play with!


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I Am A Noob;15056529*
> Broke down today and purchased i5-2500k & P8P67.
> Pretty sure I made the right choice. I don't want to mess with SLI in the future. Too much power draw and I wouldn't put up with the studdering.
> Now i need a GPU to play with!


Congrats dude.
Well I can suggest a 560ti or 6950 about the same in performance. Good cards if you aren't uber gamer.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;15053266*
> I guess that mass of questions didn't make total sense. I could never make it into Windows at x47/x48 so I don't know what my load voltage would be. The trick turned out to be _enabling_ PLL Overvoltage and then going back to your awesome template. I thought I had it stable at x48 with +0.065--passed prime95 1344 and 1792 FFTs @ 90% available memory with a vcore around 1.42--but she died about 6 hours into a full blend test.
> 
> I gonna try going to +0.070 but thats probably going to push my voltage and temperatures higher than I'd like for folding. I think I read in one of your posts that ~1.425v is the limit recommended for 24/7 @ 100% load?
> 
> Thanx!


I have spent countless hours testing with Prime over multiple platforms, taking notes and discovering what tests effect what ever.

I know it takes a minimum of 10 hours to complete all available test Prime Blend has to offer.

The 160K test at 6 hours 14 minutes is very stressful and makes the most heat during the 10 hour loop of Prime blend. It seems useful for setting both total Vcore and also seems to be Ram voltage sensitive requiring more Vdimm to pass consistently for me anyway.

So there are three issues you need to deal with here heat not being the least of your concern.

It's important to note the failed test in Prime so you can come back to it and not waste a bunch of time but I'm almost certain this is the test you failed. Keep in mind you can choose the test from Prime to begin testing by selecting "Custom" and you can loop the test as well by as many times as you choose. I'd start with 4 loops as indicated below.










Your are on the right track bumping vcore but if you do plug in the 160k where you see 320k above and if the test fails try bumping vdimm and test again paying particular attention to your temps. If you have a temp gun watch your digi+ vrm/s

It may also be useful to enable Spread Spectrum. Keep in mind the memory controller is on die (proc) making the power it gets critical. Through my testing with this platform on the Asus board it seems the fellas who have written the bios paid particular attention to this parameter in the overclocked state and may well be a compliment/aid. Similarly MSI (I also have a Z68A-GD80 to play with) has there on implementation (intel SVID vs APS) where they have spent time shoring up the interface, you can choose the Intel spec or there own which seems to do better with higher clocks, so me thinks it's no coincidence.

GL and report back

I have posted up a spread sheet for this platform for anyone here who wants to use it to share bios settings. All I ask is that you only post settings that work but it is my hope it becomes a repository we all can use. I made a few entries so far and intend to add more soon and would like to see you all take advantage of it.
It is editable by all who have a link so Check it out >>> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApAbOXdu3nL3dEJ6U2hQd3RfNVRRMmxkbVFHSG5WdGc&hl=en_US#gid=0

_edit I should note in addition to the settings listed in the spread sheet I make the following changed to optimized defaults to avoid certain peculiarities of the bios such as dbl post over 100Blck, disappearing hard drive, and slow boots.
_

_Full screen (post) disabled_
_APM: PCIE enabled_
_J-Micron: Disabled_
_Marvel: Disabled_
_Setup Mode: Advanced_
_Raid mode + 1st boot device set & 2nd disabled_
_Opt. ROM: Keep Current (set boot drive & F10 first before you set this)_
_QFan: disable both CPU & Case_


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowirve;15050825*
> Thx. You are always so nice.


You're welcome!

Thank you for the encouraging compliment!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15051376*
> I'm running a P8Z68-V in my new build. Been gradually getting used to how different overclocking is on sandybridge but I think I have it down now. The problem is I can't get my 2500k to clock very well. I'm currently running 4.5ghz at 1.35v (1.325 under load) through 1.5hrs of linx (without AVX) but 4.8Ghz did not seem to want to stabilise at any reasonable voltage I tried.
> 
> Can anyone tell me if upgrading from the 0501 bios to the 0706 would help overclocking in any way or are there just minor bug fixes?


I don't know in regards to the BIOS version, but I do know one thing that I have learned during my time in this thread: Linpack is actually a waste of time, including Linpack with AVX (when I say "Linpack", I'm referring to both IntelBurnTest and LinX). The recommended test is Prime95's Blend test, or you can choose the Custom test to maximize the amount of memory it uses. So it would still be Blend, but with a custom amount of memory.

However, what are all of your UEFI settings right now?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;15053266*
> I guess that mass of questions didn't make total sense. I could never make it into Windows at x47/x48 so I don't know what my load voltage would be.


I'm sorry for the confusion. Looking back at my post, I think I was referring to when you used a multiplier of 46. It looks like I was distracted or something because I wasn't very clear about it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;15053266*
> The trick turned out to be _enabling_ PLL Overvoltage and then going back to your awesome template. I thought I had it stable at x48 with +0.065--passed prime95 1344 and 1792 FFTs @ 90% available memory with a vcore around 1.42--but she died about 6 hours into a full blend test.


So according to CPU-Z, are you getting 1.424V under full load using an Offset of +0.065V?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;15053266*
> I gonna try going to +0.070 but thats probably going to push my voltage and temperatures higher than I'd like for folding. I think I read in one of your posts that ~1.425v is the limit recommended for 24/7 @ 100% load?
> 
> Thanx!


You're welcome!

Regarding 1.425V: that's just what Juan Jose at ASUS ("JJ") says. He's their Senior Technical Marketing Director, but I don't know if he's just being conservative, or if he's speaking from experience, or if he's repeating something Intel told him. Either way, I guess I'm taking his word for it.


----------



## owcraftsman

Here is a handy template anyone can use to copy/paste when asking for overclocking help. Make changes to it reflecting your specs and help will be more relevant to your situation.

All you have to do to use it is quote this post then copy the template removing that which is not relevant when asking for help.

It is a copy of the Asus UEFI Ai Tweaker & Advanced pages found in all P67 H67 & Z68 UEFI bios pages. It was first used here at post #2441 but thanks goes to Asus for creating such a great bios.

Code:



Code:


** System Specs ** 
Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V Pro    Bios Ver: 0706
Processor: i7 2600k   Stepping: D2 
RAM: CMZ8GX3M2A Rated Sp/Cas: 1866C9 
GPU: GTX 580  SLI/CF: no
PSU: Corsair TX850w
Cooling: Air
OS: W7U x64 SP1

** Ai Tweaker **
Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 102.2
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 46
Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
Memory Freq: 1635
DRAM Timing Control: 9-10-9-24-CR2
EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
** Ai Tweaker\ CPU Management> **
CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
** Ai Tweaker\ (Digi+ VRM section) **
Load Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 130%
** Ai Tweaker\  (Voltage Section) **
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: Auto
DRAM Voltage: 1.50v
VCCSA Voltage: 1.06250v
VCCIO Voltage: 1.85000v
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.06000v
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
** Advanced\ CPU Configuration> **
CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled 
Intel Vitalization Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Auto
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Enabled


----------



## TwoCables

That's mine.

Although, I personally don't consider it a template. I think of it more as just a starting point of sorts.


----------



## alw71

Hay Lord's and Ladies I'm new here and ineed of some help on the subject of overclocking.... I don't know what to do, at all. I've looked at a fair few videis but they're sketchy at most.
After going through quite a few posts and not being able to find any tutorials on the matter I've decided to ask instead.
Could you please tell me on the best way to go about overclocking my soon to be recieved P8Z68 v pro motherboard and i5 2500k?
I only have one 4GB stick of vengeance blue. Should i get another stick too? I really didn't mean to rhyme that.
I would really appreciate any of your help even if it's only one post.
Thanks a million Adam.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15060214*
> That's mine.
> 
> Although, I personally don't consider it a template. I think of it more as just a starting point of sorts.


lol Actually it's all Asus fault, I wish I could say it was a copy n paste but I had printed this out from a post I read here, I just forgot where so I had to type it out. It has the pertinent setting to OC I thought about adding Advanced\ APM> If it's yours I hope you don't mind us using it, these templates are invaluable for discussion.

edit I found it post #2441 TY
Hey would you mind filling out/sharing your settings at the spread sheet I created
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApAbOXdu3nL3dEJ6U2hQd3RfNVRRMmxkbVFHSG5WdGc&hl=en_US#gid=0


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman;15058932*
> I have spent countless hours testing with Prime over multiple platforms, taking notes and discovering what tests effect what ever.
> 
> I know it takes a minimum of 10 hours to complete all available test Prime Blend has to offer.
> 
> The 160K test at 6 hours 14 minutes is very stressful and makes the most heat during the 10 hour loop of Prime blend. It seems useful for setting both total Vcore and also seems to be Ram voltage sensitive requiring more Vdimm to pass consistently for me anyway.
> 
> So there are three issues you need to deal with here heat not being the least of your concern.
> 
> It's important to note the failed test in Prime so you can come back to it and not waste a bunch of time but I'm almost certain this is the test you failed. Keep in mind you can choose the test from Prime to begin testing by selecting "Custom" and you can loop the test as well by as many times as you choose. I'd start with 4 loops as indicated below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your are on the right track bumping vcore but if you do plug in the 160k where you see 320k above and if the test fails try bumping vdimm and test again paying particular attention to your temps. If you have a temp gun watch your digi+ vrm/s
> 
> It may also be useful to enable Spread Spectrum. Keep in mind the memory controller is on die (proc) making the power it gets critical. Through my testing with this platform on the Asus board it seems the fellas who have written the bios paid particular attention to this parameter in the overclocked state and may well be a compliment/aid. Similarly MSI (I also have a Z68A-GD80 to play with) has there on implementation (intel SVID vs APS) where they have spent time shoring up the interface, you can choose the Intel spec or there own which seems to do better with higher clocks, so me thinks it's no coincidence.
> 
> GL and report back
> 
> I have posted up a spread sheet for this platform for anyone here who wants to use it to share bios settings. All I ask is that you only post settings that work but it is my hope it becomes a repository we all can use. I made a few entries so far and intend to add more soon and would like to see you all take advantage of it.
> It is editable by all who have a link so Check it out >>> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApAbOXdu3nL3dEJ6U2hQd3RfNVRRMmxkbVFHSG5WdGc&hl=en_US#gid=0
> 
> _edit I should note in addition to the settings listed in the spread sheet I make the following changed to optimized defaults to avoid certain peculiarities of the bios such as dbl post over 100Blck, disappearing hard drive, and slow boots.
> _
> 
> _Full screen (post) disabled_
> _APM: PCIE enabled_
> _J-Micron: Disabled_
> _Marvel: Disabled_
> _Setup Mode: Advanced_
> _Raid mode + 1st boot device set & 2nd disabled_
> _Opt. ROM: Keep Current (set boot drive & F10 first before you set this)_
> _QFan: disable both CPU & Case_


Thanks for all the great feedback. There is so much to overclocking that I have yet to comprehend







. I didn't think to note the FFT that caused the failure but will from now on.

I gave up on the x48 OC after it failed another blend test @ +0.070. I've reduced the multiplier to 47 and have made several runs with that. At +0.025, it passed FFT's 1344 and 1792 but just died during 720k. The other interesting thing is that I'm starting to think I have a 'weak' core. I consistenly see prime95 fail on logical core 1 or 2. I'll try your FFT recommendations with a higher offset and let you know.

And since you recommended it, what does spread spectrum do? And when you say 'vdimm', are you referring to the memory voltage? I have mine manually set to 1.5v because I'm running 8GB of Corsair Vengence.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman;15060856*
> lol Actually it's all Asus fault, I wish I could say it was a copy n paste but I had printed this out from a post I read here, I just forgot where so I had to type it out. It has the pertinent setting to OC I thought about adding Advanced\ APM> If it's yours I hope you don't mind us using it, these templates are invaluable for discussion.


It's in Post #2 of this thread, so of course I don't mind.







All I ask is that you make sure no one ends up thinking that it's your creation.

Regarding the inclusion of APM: the reason why I didn't include it is because I am keeping it as specific to overclocking as possible.


----------



## TwoCables

*TooManyToys NotEnoughTime:*

Please don't forget to reply to my post above. I have questions in it for you.


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15059447*
> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by TooManyToys NotEnoughTime
> I guess that mass of questions didn't make total sense. I could never make it into Windows at x47/x48 so I don't know what my load voltage would be.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry for the confusion. Looking back at my post, I think I was referring to when you used a multiplier of 46. It looks like I was distracted or something because I wasn't very clear about it.
Click to expand...

No problem--I'm getting old and am easily confused at times







.
Quote:


> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by TooManyToys NotEnoughTime
> The trick turned out to be enabling PLL Overvoltage and then going back to your awesome template. I thought I had it stable at x48 with +0.065--passed prime95 1344 and 1792 FFTs @ 90% available memory with a vcore around 1.42--but she died about 6 hours into a full blend test.
> 
> 
> 
> So according to CPU-Z, are you getting 1.424V under full load using an Offset of +0.065V?
Click to expand...

It was averaging 1.424, bouncing between 1.416 and 1.432 with VID between 1.3661 and 1.3711. HWMonitor reported a max 1.44v.
Quote:


> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by TooManyToys NotEnoughTime
> I gonna try going to +0.070 but thats probably going to push my voltage and temperatures higher than I'd like for folding. I think I read in one of your posts that ~1.425v is the limit recommended for 24/7 @ 100% load?
> 
> Thanx!
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome!
Click to expand...

In the end, my attempt at x48 @ 0.070 also failed during a blend run after passing 1344 and 1792. I've reduce the multiplier to 47 and am currently testing that at +0.030. As I mentioned to owcraftsman, I think I have a weak core. Prime95 almost always fails on virtual cpu 1 or 2.

On the other hand, my sig rig is much less voltage-hungry. I don't want to jinx myself but it looks to be happy with x48 @ +0.20--go figure.








Quote:


> Regarding 1.425V: that's just what Juan Jose at ASUS ("JJ") says. He's their Senior Technical Marketing Director, but I don't know if he's just being conservative, or if he's speaking from experience, or if he's repeating something Intel told him. Either way, I guess I'm taking his word for it.


If nothing else, we have to assume that he wouldn't want to fry all of his customers' CPU's


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

And on a slightly different subject, has anyone heard from turrican recently? I PM'ed him about adding me to the club listing but never heard back!?

me -->







<-- turrican


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;15061324*
> No problem--I'm getting old and am easily confused at times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> It was averaging 1.424, bouncing between 1.416 and 1.432 with VID between 1.3661 and 1.3711. HWMonitor reported a max 1.44v.
> 
> In the end, my attempt at x48 @ 0.070 also failed during a blend run after passing 1344 and 1792. I've reduce the multiplier to 47 and am currently testing that at +0.030. As I mentioned to owcraftsman, I think I have a weak core. Prime95 almost always fails on virtual cpu 1 or 2.
> 
> On the other hand, my sig rig is much less voltage-hungry. I don't want to jinx myself but it looks to be happy with x48 @ +0.20--go figure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If nothing else, we have to assume that he wouldn't want to fry all of his customers' CPU's


Do you have HyperThreading enabled? If so, then are you doing anything with your computer that takes advantage of it?

If not, then we can disable it and possibly increase the overclocking potential.


----------



## alw71

hello


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;15060899*
> Thanks for all the great feedback. There is so much to overclocking that I have yet to comprehend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I didn't think to note the FFT that caused the failure but will from now on.
> 
> And since you recommended it, what does spread spectrum do? And when you say 'vdimm', are you referring to the memory voltage? I have mine manually set to 1.5v because I'm running 8GB of Corsair Vengence.


You are welcome.

If enabled, the CPU Spread Spectrum acts to stabilize the frequency of the Dual Intelligent Processors 2 with Digi+ VRM (TPU & EPU). (short answer) note do not use when OCing BLCK

Yes vdimm= *V*oltage *D*ual *I*n Line *M*emory *M*odule
I have the same RAM and have had to use 1.65v to stabilize high clocks 4.8+


----------



## dlerch

Just coming by to report that my build is still stable. :-D


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;15061383*
> And on a slightly different subject, has anyone heard from turrican recently? I PM'ed him about adding me to the club listing but never heard back!?
> 
> me -->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <-- turrican


Hello, mate







I will add you and some other people in the next few days


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15061407*
> Do you have HyperThreading enabled? If so, then are you doing anything with your computer that takes advantage of it?
> 
> If not, then we can disable it and possibly increase the overclocking potential.


I fold with both systems so would prefer to leave hyperthreading enabled. And a x47 OC is not bad ... just not quite as fast as x48







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman;15061838*
> You are welcome.
> 
> If enabled, the CPU Spread Spectrum acts to stabilize the frequency of the Dual Intelligent Processors 2 with Digi+ VRM (TPU & EPU). (short answer) note do not use when OCing BLCK
> 
> Yes vdimm= *V*oltage *D*ual *I*n Line *M*emory *M*odule
> I have the same RAM and have had to use 1.65v to stabilize high clocks 4.8+


Gotcha. Well that's two more things I have to try next weekend.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15062740*
> Hello, mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will add you and some other people in the next few days


Ah ha, there he is!







Thats p8z68v pro owner (two of them now).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TooManyToys NotEnoughTime;15063447*
> I fold with both systems so would prefer to leave hyperthreading enabled. And a x47 OC is not bad ... just not quite as fast as x48
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Oh! Well then that means mine will always be bigger than yours!


----------



## Julez007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman;15060102*
> Here is a handy template you can copy/paste & change to your specs for sharing.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> ** System Specs **
> Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V Pro    Bios Ver: 0706
> Processor: i7 2600k   Stepping: D2
> RAM: CMZ8GX3M2A Rated Sp/Cas: 1866C9
> GPU: GTX 580  SLI/CF: no
> PSU: Corsair TX850w
> Cooling: Air
> OS: W7U x64 SP1
> 
> ** Ai Tweaker **
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 102.2
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 46
> Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
> Memory Freq: 1635
> DRAM Timing Control: 9-10-9-24-CR2
> EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
> ** Ai Tweaker\ CPU Management> **
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Tecnology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintened: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> ** Ai Tweaker\ (in the Digi+ VRM section) **
> Load Line Caliobration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 130%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: Auto
> DRAM Voltage: 1.50v
> VCCSA Voltage: 1.06250v
> VCCIO Voltage: 1.85000v
> CPU PLL Voltage: 1.06000v
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> ** Advanced\ CPU Configuration> **
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Tecnology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Auto
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Enabled


Thank you, whoever created these settings because i could not get over 4.5ghz until now...
















So i took these settings and used an offset of +0.025 to reach 4.7ghz. With Prime95 on blend test for 3hours and still counting my Core Voltage jumps from 1.392 - 1.384... My VID shows 1.3761 and my highest temps have been 70-75-77-71. The temps have gradually lowered because of idle temps getting lower and are now sitting around 65-70-73-68.

Do these settings look okay with these temps or do i need to change any of them? My Memory is set to 1910mhz at 9-11-9-27...


----------



## Shinigami~

I want to be added to this club!! I have a p8p67 Deluxe what do I have to do to be part of the club!?!?


----------



## pg_ice

Hi all

whats the problem with the Asus p8z68-v pro ?
it changes CPU voltage like an idiot

how do i disable that?
i want offset but not as mutch like this.
even if im running at 4.9Ghz this crappy board changes the v to 1.2v still staying at 4.9Ghz
if i start up prime it cant change up the V fast enough resulting in a blue screen.

low V is great in idle but the board cant handle the changes when overclocking.

Edit: problem solved
Disabeld C3/C6 state


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;15066493*
> Thank you, whoever created these settings because i could not get over 4.5ghz until now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i took these settings and used an offset of +0.025 to reach 4.7ghz. With Prime95 on blend test for 3hours and still counting my Core Voltage jumps from 1.392 - 1.384... My VID shows 1.3761 and my highest temps have been 70-75-77-71. The temps have gradually lowered because of idle temps getting lower and are now sitting around 65-70-73-68.
> 
> Do these settings look okay with these temps or do i need to change any of them? My Memory is set to 1910mhz at 9-11-9-27...


Those are settings I used and my system specs, they work for me I'm glad it helped as always each system varies rarely matching exact settings required but they can be a good starting point for testing stability.

The template is copied from the Asus UEFI bios Ai Tweaker and Advanced pages where all overclocking adjustments are made. If anyone is to be thanked it would be Asus. It was compiled 1st in this thread on this forum at post #2441 and repeated in post 2 by the OP. I typed it up from a printed copy of that post and placed the code tags on it to conserve space in the thread and no thanks is required. Although the screen capture tool (F12) while in the UEFI is fantastic it takes up a lot of space to post them up here and capture all relevant settings to offer peeps help with overclocking. The template captures all relevent settings in the minimal amount of space. All who want to use it are perfectly welcome in any way they see fit unless Asus objects which I doubt.

Your temps look fine with Real temp (77c max) but not Core Temp 98c is way to high for normal use what does Probe II say and what cooling are you using? Looks like you have a decent chip there mine requires a bit more voltage (on auto)







to be stable at that clock. I would make sure to run Prime Blend max memory for a minimum of 10 hours to insure stability. That is the amount of time it takes Prime to run a complete loop of all test.


----------



## alw71

Have i done something wrong?
I've posted a few questions now to be complately ignored!
I really dont want to be rude but i thought it was the whole point of joining a forum.
I can't believe noone has even replied to me or answered my question.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shinigami~;15067800*
> I want to be added to this club!! I have a p8p67 Deluxe what do I have to do to be part of the club!?!?


I want to be added too however I sent a PM. I see lots who posted to ask in the thread like you so I have too now. I see the OP said a few post back he will be added some more soon so me thinks it won't be to long before it's a done deal.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71;15060819*
> Hay Lord's and Ladies I'm new here and ineed of some help on the subject of overclocking.... I don't know what to do, at all. I've looked at a fair few videis but they're sketchy at most.
> After going through quite a few posts and not being able to find any tutorials on the matter I've decided to ask instead.
> Could you please tell me on the best way to go about overclocking my soon to be recieved P8Z68 v pro motherboard and i5 2500k?
> I only have one 4GB stick of vengeance blue. Should i get another stick too? I really didn't mean to rhyme that.
> I would really appreciate any of your help even if it's only one post.
> Thanks a million Adam.


So the thing of overclocking try with this template below
another thing I might not understand you correctly, but the thing you're trying to say is that, that you have one physical stick of ram. In that case it's not good you need another stick of the same to get better performance (dual channel)
Quote:


> TwoCables template for his stable Core i5 [email protected] overclock
> 
> Originally Posted by TwoCables
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
> Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
> DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
> DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto
> 
> Note: that Offset Voltage gets me a Core Voltage in CPU-Z of about 1.384V - 1.392V while under full load in Prime95's Blend. So be cautious and adjust accordingly.


----------



## alw71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15069520*
> So the thing of overclocking try with this template below
> another thing I might not understand you correctly, but the thing you're trying to say is that, that you have one physical stick of ram. In that case it's not good you need another stick of the same to get better performance (dual channel)


Thankyou very very much!


----------



## alw71

I managed to find a video of this connected to this site, here




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMZoWOpry40[/ame[/URL]]
There are however some differences. I dont know if anyone has time to compare what he says to the template posted here but it kind of worries me that the two guys sometimes contradict each other in having things enabled and disabled such as the setting for Internal PLL Voltage which is Disabled here but on the video he has it enabled. Is this a feature that i should worry about or down to prefrence?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71;15070353*
> 
> There are however some differences. I dont know if anyone has time to compare what he says to the template posted here but it kind of worries me that the two guys sometimes contradict each other in having things enabled and disabled such as the setting for Internal PLL Voltage which is Disabled here but on the video he has it enabled. Is this a feature that i should worry about or down to prefrence?


All system differ not only by components but by there individual abilities. What settings works for one may not work for another even with the exact same specs. These templates therefore are only for reference or in other words a starting point to begin overclocking. If they work for you the fine, but minor adjustment may be needed to make your system stable. You do that by stressing your system and insuring it can pass the test with out error in the accepted temperature ranges.
In regards to Internal PLL Voltage it is generally accepted that it is not needed below 4.6 GHz but that all depends on what your processor demand in order to be stable. It would be wise to read thoroughly the first 2 post found in this thread expanding all that applies to your components. It is quit thorough and well compiled collections of details found by users like yourself. Well worth spending a lot of time there which will answer a lot of you Qs. Kudos to the OP.


----------



## turrican9

Have added the following members to the Club:

*chillidog, Rebel230, 0megaR0uter, nepas, TooManyToys NotEnoughTime, merwan, DJDannyV, owcraftsman and Shinigami~*

Welcome!


----------



## Sean Webster

I just realized I'm not on the list lol.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


I just realized I'm not on the list lol.


I'll add you right now..


----------



## alw71

Ok cheers dude i will have a good look before any more questions.


----------



## TooManyToys NotEnoughTime

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Have added the following members to the Club:

*chillidog, Rebel230, 0megaR0uter, nepas, TooManyToys NotEnoughTime, merwan, DJDannyV, owcraftsman and Shinigami~*

Welcome!










Thanks!


----------



## orlywutlol

How is everyone's onboard audio? I seem to be having some quality issues. I have scratchy audio at times. It's not constant but very annoying.

*EDIT: *I was doing some testing and narrowed it down to the DTS bass enhancement technology. I disabled this and the crackling completely stopped.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15061407*
> Do you have HyperThreading enabled? If so, then are you doing anything with your computer that takes advantage of it?
> 
> If not, then we can disable it and possibly increase the overclocking potential.


You have been doing an excellent job of helping the SB newbies here the last few months, so i feel you deserve a +rep or two Keep it up!

*Edit:* I noticed a lot of the questions people have are the same thing over and over... I don't know where you get the patience


----------



## turrican9

Yeah, *TwoCables* is a fantastic contribution to both the OCN and this Club.







and +rep


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15076336*
> Yeah, *TwoCables* is a fantastic contribution to both the OCN and this Club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and +rep


So are you, this is fantastic club









Where have you been??


----------



## Maniak

Just got my board yesterday and now I'm officially with the cool kids.
First time trying an Asus board..definitely impressed with the lack of problems/issues.

Now to overclock!


----------



## Julez007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman;15069125*
> 
> Your temps look fine with Real temp (77c max) but not Core Temp 98c is way to high for normal use what does Probe II say and what cooling are you using? Looks like you have a decent chip there mine requires a bit more voltage (on auto)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to be stable at that clock. I would make sure to run Prime Blend max memory for a minimum of 10 hours to insure stability. That is the amount of time it takes Prime to run a complete loop of all test.


Probe II is 65c cpu max temp... my cooler is corsair h80. I dont know why core temps sometimes will go to 98c? with a question mark on it. so i use all four (cpuid hwmonitor, coretemp, realtemp, and asus probe II) to monitor temps.

Woke up this morning to see 14hour prime95 blend test with no errors

View attachment 230728


----------



## Sean Webster

So...I got 4.8GHz @1.36vcore...









I need a better cooler for 5+ runs now...









Any suggestions?


----------



## Julez007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;15079212*
> So...I got 4.8GHz @1.36vcore...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need a better cooler for 5+ runs now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?


what value do you have your multiplier at? maybe i should give it a try...


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;15079726*
> what value do you have your multiplier at? maybe i should give it a try...


I used TwoCables settings...so 48 multi, but the offset voltage is at -.005


----------



## Julez007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


I used TwoCables settings...so 48 multi, but the offset voltage is at -.05


What are your temps with that setting because i think my temps are already pretty high...


----------



## TwoCables

Reply incoming.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


What are your temps with that setting because i think my temps are already pretty high...


Mine are too...I hit 85 for a sec in Intel burn test so I'm not running any load apps till I get a better cooler, but it is stable at 1.36 for sure. Idle is about mid 30's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Reply incoming.










Haha!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


Thank you, whoever created these settings because i could not get over 4.5ghz until now...










I'm the one who created it, so you are very welcome! Although, what owcraftsman posted is quite an altered version. The original is in Post #2 of this thread.







So, try to use that one. Although, I personally do not consider it to be a "template". I don't _have_ a name for it, really. I just say that those are my settings that others can try. It really helps get the ball rolling.

Just in case the question comes up of how I know it's mine: I recognized it by this part of it: "(in the Digi+ VRM section)"

That proves to me that it is mine. Compare it to the original.

owcraftsman and I had a huge fight over this because he was trying to accuse me of some kind of plagiarism and told me that he will never give me credit for it, but instead he'll just give all of it to ASUS. That is why he's trying to say that all of the credit goes to ASUS when in fact I worked my ass off to end up at those settings and content that *he altered and is now taking credit for *(at least, the settings and content seen in Post #2 of this thread).

One of the problems I have with him is he posted his altered version and called it a "handy template".

So owcraftsman, I direct this part of my post at you: if you want to justify your side of the argument, then give us a template that doesn't have any settings in it. Yeah, that's right: make it blank! Remember, it will need to work for everyone!

Here's an example of a good template (an example of what I am talking about) as taken from the Gigabyte EP45-UD3 Series Owners Guide (which is really more of a club):

Code:


Code:


CPU = 
VID = 
Motherboard = 
BIOS Version = 
Ram =

MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)
Robust Graphics Booster .............: Auto
CPU Clock Ratio .....................: 
Fine CPU Clock Ratio.................: 
CPU Frequency .......................:

Clock Chip Control 
Standard Clock Control
CPU Host Clock Control...............: 
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) ............: 
PCI Express Frequency (Mhz) .........:

Advanced Clock Control
CPU Clock Drive......................: 
PCI Express Clock Drive..............: 
CPU Clock Skew.......................: 
MCH Clock Skew.......................:

DRAM Performance Control
Performance Enhance..................: 
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.)......: 
(G)MCH Frequency Latch...............: 
System Memory Multiplier ............: 
Memory Frequency (Mhz) ..............: 
DRAM Timing Selectable ..............:

Standard Timing Control
CAS Latency Time.....................: 
tRCD ................................: 
tRP..................................: 
tRAS.................................:

Advanced Timing Control
tRRD.................................: 
tWTR.................................: 
tWR..................................: 
tRFC.................................: 
tRTP.................................: 
Command Rate (CMD) ..................:

Channel A
Static tRead Value...................:

Channel B
Static tRead Value...................:

Motherboard Voltage Control

CPU
Load Line Calibration (LLC) .........: 
CPU Vcore............................: 
CPU Termination.....1.200V*..........: 
CPU PLL.............1.500V*..........: 
CPU Referen.........0.755V*..........:

MCH/ICH
MCH Core............1.100V...........: 
MCH Reference.......0.800V...........: 
MCH/DRAM Ref........0.900V...........: 
ICH I/O.............1.500V...........: 
ICH Core............1.100V...........:

DRAM
DRAM Voltage .........1.800V.........: 
DRAM Termination .....0.900V.........: 
Channel A Reference ..0.900V.........: 
Channel B Reference ..0.900V.........:

That is a true template. Isn't it beautiful?

Anyway, moving on.......

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*









So i took these settings and used an offset of +0.025 to reach 4.7ghz. With Prime95 on blend test for 3hours and still counting my Core Voltage jumps from 1.392 - 1.384... My VID shows 1.3761 and my highest temps have been 70-75-77-71. The temps have gradually lowered because of idle temps getting lower and are now sitting around 65-70-73-68.

Do these settings look okay with these temps or do i need to change any of them? My Memory is set to 1910mhz at 9-11-9-27...


Can you post all of your settings? I tried to create a true blank template, but during the process it became obvious to me that there are many variables that change based on other settings. So, it will be difficult to make a nice template that isn't too cluttered. The one I'm making right now is just nowhere near as uncluttered as the EP45-UD3 template above. Too many variables.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


You have been doing an excellent job of helping the SB newbies here the last few months, so i feel you deserve a +rep or two







Keep it up!


Thank you!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


*Edit:* I noticed a lot of the questions people have are the same thing over and over... I don't know where you get the patience










It would be different if we had people repeating their own questions even though they were already answered.

For example: let's say a guy comes in, asks his question, gets his answer, and then goes on his merry way. Let's say now that the next day he asks the same question again just as though he didn't already ask it. Well, let's say he does this 5-10 times in a row: if this were to happen, then I think I might lose my patience. Fortunately, each person is only asking their question one time. So, I feel that no one has the right to tell anyone that their question has been asked already. I think it's just plain rude and unnecessary and it makes the person who is asking feel like a jerk or like an idiot.

So even though I may be answering the same questions day after day after day after day, it doesn't bother me because those repeat questions are only being asked one time by each person who asks. Plus, it allows me to continually refine my answers. Or perhaps I should say that it allows me to continually clarify them and improve them. Over the course of time, the answers I keep repeating every single day keep getting better and better and better and better.

I am a musician (a drummer), and so I can use this analogy: it's like rehearsing a song over and over and over. I can still find ways to improve my drum parts in songs that I have played literally more than 10,000 times simply because I'm a human being. We are organic, and we're constantly changing second by second - including when it's practically undetectable. I could play a single song 500 times in one day, and I would have 500 different versions. Most of the differences would be small, but sometimes the differences are huge!

So it's the same with answering the same questions every single day: if I were to answer one question twice in the same hour from two different people, then both of my answers would be different from each other; they'd be roughly the same, but they'd still be different. If I were to answer the same question from two different people on two different days, then my two answers might be even more different from each other! Plus no two people ask the same question in the same way.

In other words, it's very organic by nature and so no two questions are the same.


----------



## Julez007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twocables*


can you post all of your settings? I tried to create a true blank template, but during the process it became obvious to me that there are many variables that change based on other settings. So, it will be difficult to make a nice template that isn't too cluttered. The one i'm making right now is just nowhere near as uncluttered as the ep45-ud3 template above. Too many variables.


Not sure if this is what you wanted but here it is... 
Attachment 230755Attachment 230756Attachment 230757Attachment 230758
Attachment 230759


----------



## Julez007

continued


----------



## Julez007

Final....


----------



## Julez007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;15079212*
> So...I got 4.8GHz @1.36vcore...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need a better cooler for 5+ runs now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?


I am trying a multi of 47 and bclk of 102.2 to get 4.8ghz and it booted up no problem... my only concern is doing too many prime95 tests... will this end up messing up my cpu?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


Not sure if this is what you wanted but here it is... 
Attachment 230755Attachment 230756Attachment 230757Attachment 230758
Attachment 230759


*Edit:* Oh you are awesome. I see additional screenshots! Although, the only thing I think I would change in the rest of the screenshots might be setting JMB Controller to Disabled. Although, I think it's used for eSATA.

_________________________________________________

Oh nice. Thank you!

Let's try these changes (in red) and see what we get:

*Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* *100.0*
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* *47*
*Internal PLL Voltage:* *Disabled*
*Memory Frequency:* *DDR3-2000MHz*
*DRAM Timing Control:* *Use the timings you see here in your copy of CPU-Z (yours are different from these)* 
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Extreme
*Duty Control:* *Extreme*
*CPU Current Capability:* *140% (this is safe because you're receiving help)
*
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.025V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.65V *(is your memory really rated for 1.65V? Review that same section of CPU-Z from above)*

*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* Auto
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* *Enabled*

*Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* *Enabled*
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto

Let's go for it!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;15080829*
> I am trying a multi of 47 and bclk of 102.2 to get 4.8ghz and it booted up no problem... my only concern is doing too many prime95 tests... will this end up messing up my cpu?


Follow what TwoCables tell you, and you shouldnt have a problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15080548*
> *snip*


I was mostly referring to the questions people ask that are already answered in the first 3 posts of the thread, such as idle BSOD, or double boot. Thats the only thing i wouldnt have the patience for, unless they mentioned that they tried it and it didnt work. The other questions i can completely understand because the answer for one person may not work for another.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15080864*
> Although, the only thing I think I would change in the rest of the screenshots might be setting JMB Controller to Disabled. Although, I think it's used for eSATA.


It is used for eSata.

Here is something i found that i thought was interesting. I was having problems with my 4.6GHz OC, and i wasnt sure what caused it. So i decided to start fresh using the setting ASUS recommends. The only things i did different that the recommended settings was i used offset +0.35V, and i used RAM timing of 9-9-9-28 instead of my XMPs 8-8-8-24. This voltage was what i used when my OC was perfectly stable. An overnight Prime95 custom blend with 7GB lasted 10.5h. Not quite enough for me, so i thought i would try changing the AI Overclock tuner from manual to XMP. I did this to see how long it would last using the RAMs rated timings so i would know where to go from there. Turns out it lasted 19h+, and im sure it would have gone forever if i didnt stop the test to use my computer So if you got the time, give this a try and see how it works for you. YMMV of course.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Follow what TwoCables tell you, and you shouldnt have a problem.


One can only hope. hehe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


I was mostly referring to the questions people ask that are already answered in the first 3 posts of the thread, such as idle BSOD, or double boot. Thats the only thing i wouldnt have the patience for, unless they mentioned that they tried it and it didnt work. The other questions i can completely understand because the answer for one person may not work for another.


But even then, I feel that everything I said still applies.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


It is used for eSata.


Thank you!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Here is something i found that i thought was interesting. I was having problems with my 4.6GHz OC, and i wasnt sure what caused it. So i decided to start fresh using the setting ASUS recommends. The only things i did different that the recommended settings was i used offset +0.35V, and i used RAM timing of 9-9-9-28 instead of my XMPs 8-8-8-24. This voltage was what i used when my OC was perfectly stable. An overnight Prime95 custom blend with 7GB lasted 10.5h. Not quite enough for me, so i thought i would try changing the AI Overclock tuner from manual to XMP. I did this to see how long it would last using the RAMs rated timings so i would know where to go from there. Turns out it lasted 19h+, and im sure it would have gone forever if i didnt stop the test to use my computer







So if you got the time, give this a try and see how it works for you. YMMV of course.


If you want to go further with this, then I recommend setting Ai Overclock Tuner back to Manual while manually setting your memory to the settings you find in your copy of CPU-Z in the section seen below:










I have my memory set to *all* of these specs (except for tRC of 42 because I don't have the ability to adjust tRC), and it's working very well. So I believe that most people should be able to use all of the settings they see when they open CPU-Z without any problems.


----------



## Julez007

Here are my mem timings and settings... are these ok with what shows on cpuz?

Ill try your settings right now and try to update tonight...


----------



## Julez007

I could not get it to boot past the windows load screen with the settings above, and I tried raising the voltage from +0.025 to 0.050 in increments of 0.005.

Is it bad to have the bclk at 102.2?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


I could not get it to boot past the windows load screen with the settings above, and I tried raising the voltage from +0.025 to 0.050 in increments of 0.005.

Is it bad to have the bclk at 102.2?


Your RAM may be unstable because BCLK also affects RAM clock speed. Change the BCLK to 100.0, then make sure your RAM is using its rated clock speed, timings, and voltage. Also, make sure VCCIO is on Auto. If that doesn't work, wait for TwoCables to assist you. Unlike TwoCables, i do sleep every now and then









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


Here are my mem timings and settings... are these ok with what shows on cpuz?


The timings are correct, but your clock speed it not. You RAM is rated for 2000MHz, but on Sandy Bridge that would be 1866MHz. So make sure you change it in the BIOS, as well as adjust the DRAM voltage to what your RAMs XMP uses.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


If you want to go further with this, then I recommend setting Ai Overclock Tuner back to Manual while manually setting your memory to the settings you find in your copy of CPU-Z in the section seen below:










I have my memory set to *all* of these specs (except for tRC of 42 because I don't have the ability to adjust tRC), and it's working very well. So I believe that most people should be able to use all of the settings they see when they open CPU-Z without any problems.


I don't know why i didn't think of this. Ill try it out tonight, and it should be able to run for 16h minimum, if it doesn't BSOD. BTW, is it possible to change the tRC with my mobo? I don't see it in the BIOS.

And one thing i forgot to previously mention was i got BSOD 124, even though i'm certain the problem was RAM related.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


Here are my mem timings and settings... are these ok with what shows on cpuz?

Ill try your settings right now and try to update tonight...


They match!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


I could not get it to boot past the windows load screen with the settings above, and I tried raising the voltage from +0.025 to 0.050 in increments of 0.005.

Is it bad to have the bclk at 102.2?


I don't know, but I just realized that there is no "DDR3-2000" in the UEFI; only 1866 and 2133. :/

Can you try the settings again except with "DDR3-1866" this time?

I'm only experimenting.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Your RAM may be unstable because BCLK also affects RAM clock speed. Change the BCLK to 100.0, then make sure your RAM is using its rated clock speed, timings, and voltage. Also, make sure VCCIO is on Auto. If that doesn't work, wait for TwoCables to assist you. Unlike TwoCables, i do sleep every now and then










I forgot how to sleep because I haven't been practicing.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


The timings are correct, but your clock speed it not. You RAM is rated for 2000MHz, but on Sandy Bridge that would be 1866MHz. So make sure you change it in the BIOS, as well as adjust the DRAM voltage to what your RAMs XMP uses.

I don't know why i didn't think of this. Ill try it out tonight, and it should be able to run for 16h minimum, if it doesn't BSOD. BTW, is it possible to change the tRC with my mobo? I don't see it in the BIOS.


No, and the funny thing is that even though it's listed in the XMP column in CPU-Z's SPD tab, it's grayed out and blank in the Memory tab. I'll never figure that one out.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


And one thing i forgot to previously mention was i got BSOD 124, even though i'm certain the problem was RAM related.


Hmm... I keep seeing people mention BSOD 124, but I still don't know what it usually means. I've just been too lazy to go look it up.


----------



## YGenHungarian

May I join?









P8P67-M


----------



## chillidog

i am geting a bit confused now.








i followed everything as to template apart from the ram in which mine is 1600
so i key in 1.6.cpu ratio is @ 46
ran prime for over 10hrs,real temp maxed out at 79.on full load it's showing 1.3611 vid and cpu-z shows core voltage @1.336,ran & played few games of bbc2 for 3 hrs with no probs everything seem ok and also ran intelburn on very high settings and that came back as passed untill the following morning turn pc on started to boot up and tried to get into windows then blue screen.
this alway happens the following morning/day from a cold boot.
how do i sort this problem out?
bit confused into why this is happening after all stress tests come back ok









HELP please


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *YGenHungarian*


May I join?









P8P67-M


Sorry mate, the Micro ATX series is not supported by this Club. However, you may feel free to post in this Club


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


So are you, this is fantastic club









Where have you been??










Thanks mate







Right back at you


----------



## Beiruty

P8Z68-V-Pro, 2600K at 4.6Ghz on 1.345v









I will have to add spec and official sig.









Please how to do so?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15084067*
> i am geting a bit confused now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i followed everything as to template apart from the ram in which mine is 1600
> so i key in 1.6.cpu ratio is @ 46
> ran prime for over 10hrs,real temp maxed out at 79.on full load it's showing 1.3611 vid and cpu-z shows core voltage @1.336,ran & played few games of bbc2 for 3 hrs with no probs everything seem ok and also ran intelburn on very high settings and that came back as passed untill the following morning turn pc on started to boot up and tried to get into windows then blue screen.
> this alway happens the following morning/day from a cold boot.
> how do i sort this problem out?
> bit confused into why this is happening after all stress tests come back ok:headscrat
> 
> HELP please


Are you using an Offset voltage? If so, then what are your current settings for "CPU C3 Report" and "CPU C6 Report"?

I'm not absolutely sure about the timing of these BSODs, but it could be caused by having both of these settings Enabled. Some even report problems with them both set to Auto even though my system is fine with them set to Auto. So, I would even go as far as to recommend setting them both to Disabled.

*Edit:* Also, what is your Load-Line Calibration setting?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15086946*
> Are you using an Offset voltage? If so, then what are your current settings for "CPU C3 Report" and "CPU C6 Report"?
> 
> I'm not absolutely sure about the timing of these BSODs, but it could be caused by having both of these settings Enabled. Some even report problems with them both set to Auto even though my system is fine with them set to Auto. So, I would even go as far as to recommend setting them both to Disabled.
> 
> *Edit:* Also, what is your Load-Line Calibration setting?


hi
offset [email protected] +
cpu c3 report=auto
cpuc6 report=auto

line calibration @ high

what doe's these cpu reports do?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15087333*
> hi
> offset [email protected] +
> cpu c3 report=auto
> cpuc6 report=auto
> 
> line calibration @ high
> 
> what doe's these cpu reports do?


I don't know how to describe them.









Since they are both set to Auto, let's change Load-Line Calibration to Ultra High. This will reduce the vDroop which could eliminate the BSODs.

*Note:* if you want to say "@mode +", then you can type it like this: +0.010


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beiruty;15086096*
> P8Z68-V-Pro, 2600K at 4.6Ghz on 1.345v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have to add spec and official sig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please how to do so?


You can do it here


----------



## turrican9

*TerrabyteX* added to the Club







Welcome


----------



## Beiruty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15088039*
> You can do it here


Done. Let us see a sig

Can I be an offical member of the club


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beiruty;15089723*
> Done. Let us see a sig
> 
> Can I be an offical member of the club


Added to the Club!

Welcome









Looks like the P8Z68-V PRO is a very popular mobo. Plenty of people in this Club are owners of it. In fact, looks like it's only beaten by the good old P8P67 PRO


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Hmm... I keep seeing people mention BSOD 124, but I still don't know what it usually means. I've just been too lazy to go look it up.


From what i know it could be 
Quote:



0x124 = increase/decrease vcore or QPI/VTT...have to test to see which one it is. If this happens in warmer weather, or in extended gaming, I'd be adding a fan to the NB area.


 But for SB the above recommendations don't seem to always work(for me anyways). It seems the cause of the 0x124 BSOD has yet to be solved.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I don't know how to describe them.









Since they are both set to Auto, let's change Load-Line Calibration to Ultra High. This will reduce the vDroop which could eliminate the BSODs.


I would recommend setting it to disable just to be safe. That way you will know for sure that it isn't causing you problems. Once you get your OC stable, you can set it to enabled or auto knowing that if a problem occurs, it is likely C3&C6 related.

Here are the results from the test i ran yesterday:








As you can see, it did even worse than the 9-9-9-28-2T test. So i believe this is further proof that using Manual could lead to instability on some systems such as mine. Interestingly, i got BSOD 101 this time. Care to test this yourself?
*
Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 46
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* 1600MHz

*DRAM Timing Control:* 8-8-8-24-2T

*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Optimized
*Duty Control:* T. Probe

*CPU Current Capability:* 120%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.035V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V

*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* Auto
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto
 *
*The difference between the above settings which failed in 7.5h, and the settings i used that lasted 16-19h on 3 tests is Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual is set to XMP.

PS: I won't be testing this any further for the next week or so since ill be OCing my GTX570 for BF3


----------



## Julez007

Quote:



Originally Posted by Julez007 View Post
I could not get it to boot past the windows load screen with the settings above, and I tried raising the voltage from +0.025 to 0.050 in increments of 0.005.

Is it bad to have the bclk at 102.2?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Your RAM may be unstable because BCLK also affects RAM clock speed. Change the BCLK to 100.0, then make sure your RAM is using its rated clock speed, timings, and voltage. Also, make sure VCCIO is on Auto. If that doesn't work, wait for TwoCables to assist you. Unlike TwoCables, i do sleep every now and then










I tried TwoCables settings and could not get it to post past windows log in with 100 bclk and a multi of 47. i raised offset voltage from +0.025 - 0.050 in increments of 0.005 with no luck.

what i meant by the 102.2 bclk is that i am stable with that setting at 4.7ghz for 14hours of prime blend test.

Is it bad to have the bclk at the setting of 102.2?


----------



## lowirve

If p8z68-v doesn't have the marvell controller, why does official website provide marvell controller driver? A mistake?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


I tried TwoCables settings and could not get it to post past windows log in with 100 bclk and a multi of 47. i raised offset voltage from +0.025 - 0.050 in increments of 0.005 with no luck.

what i meant by the 102.2 bclk is that i am stable with that setting at 4.7ghz for 14hours of prime blend test.

Is it bad to have the bclk at the setting of 102.2?


As far as i know, using a BCLK of 102.2 or any other settings isnt bad, but is generally harder to get stable. So as long as you are sure your RAM and CPU are stable with a BCLK of 102.2, then it is safe.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lowirve*


If p8z68-v doesn't have the marvell controller, why does official website provide marvell controller driver? A mistake?


I know that is what I was thinking. A first I was like oh it's for the eSata...it is marvell...but then I was like isn't the JMicron controller is for the eSata?

Anyone?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


I know that is what I was thinking. A first I was like oh it's for the eSata...it is marvell...but then I was like isn't the JMicron controller is for the eSata?

Anyone?


I see it in the storage section, but im not sure what it is. Ill try to google it after i eat.










*Edit:* Try giving this a read. Im off to eat, so i don't have time to read it.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15087463*
> I don't know how to describe them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since they are both set to Auto, let's change Load-Line Calibration to Ultra High. This will reduce the vDroop which could eliminate the BSODs.
> 
> *Note:* if you want to say "@mode +", then you can type it like this: +0.010


hi
ran prime for 11 hours and then just for an test ran intellburn on veryhigh settings on 15 runs and both stress tests all passed.realtemp maxed at 73 on core 3.

played bbc2 for 4 hrs and no problems their.
but the problem always seem to start from cold boot up the following morning i get bsod could be memory screen am not sure.i revert back to defaults settings and reran oc again and also reran prime,realtemps etc for 8 hrs all passed.
so i am puzzled into what's going on:headscrat:headscrat


----------



## lowirve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;15095148*
> I see it in the storage section, but im not sure what it is. Ill try to google it after i eat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Try giving this a read. Im off to eat, so i don't have time to read it.


This is for p8z68-v pro, not p8z68-v.


----------



## Sean Webster

So I got 5Ghz...








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2020019

And 5.3GHz...








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2019989


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


I tried TwoCables settings and could not get it to post past windows log in with 100 bclk and a multi of 47. i raised offset voltage from +0.025 - 0.050 in increments of 0.005 with no luck.

what i meant by the 102.2 bclk is that i am stable with that setting at 4.7ghz for 14hours of prime blend test.

Is it bad to have the bclk at the setting of 102.2?


When using a BCLK of 100.0 MHz with a multi of 47, did you select "DDR3-1866MHz" in the UEFI? If not, then select DDR3-1866MHz and try again.

I just want to see what happens.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


hi
ran prime for 11 hours and then just for an test ran intellburn on veryhigh settings on 15 runs and both stress tests all passed.realtemp maxed at 73 on core 3.

played bbc2 for 4 hrs and no problems their.
but the problem always seem to start from cold boot up the following morning i get bsod could be memory screen am not sure.i revert back to defaults settings and reran oc again and also reran prime,realtemps etc for 8 hrs all passed.
so i am puzzled into what's going on

















Did you change LLC to Ultra High as I suggested?

If not, then I recommend it.

If you did, then change C3 and C6 to Disabled.


----------



## pg_ice

double post


----------



## pg_ice

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


hi
but the problem always seem to start from cold boot up the following morning i get bsod could be memory screen am not sure


same problem here
whats up with those cold boots?

i can have a stable oc at 4.8ghz
then the day after it isnt stable even at 3.5ghz

some crackhead is messing with the bios over night i think









SO WHATS THE PROBLEM WITH THIS CRAPPY BOARD??


----------



## chillidog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pg_ice*


same problem here
whats up with those cold boots?

i can have a stable oc at 4.8ghz
then the day after it isnt stable even at 3.5ghz

some crackhead is messing with the bios over night i think









SO WHATS THE PROBLEM WITH THIS CRAPPY BOARD??


well am glad its not just me then








i have done everything that what was do to twocables template only adjusting the ram voltage to my spec it was all ok prime,intell burn etc all came back as passed.but always from an cold boot the problem starts.
been on asus support about this and they really don't won't to know or come back with an answer.

asus needs a good


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


well am glad its not just me then








i have done everything that what was do to twocables template only adjusting the ram voltage to my spec it was all ok prime,intell burn etc all came back as passed.but always from an cold boot the problem starts.
been on asus support about this and they really don't won't to know or come back with an answer.

asus needs a good










Did you change LLC to Ultra High as I suggested?

If not, then I recommend it.

If you did, then change C3 and C6 to Disabled.


----------



## turrican9

Wow... We are closing in on 4K posts for this Club!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Wow... We are closing in on 4K posts for this Club!


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Wow... We are closing in on 4K posts for this Club!










Winning!


----------



## Julez007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15080864*
> *Edit:*
> 
> Let's try these changes (in red) and see what we get:
> 
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* *100.0*
> *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> *By All Cores:* *47*
> *Internal PLL Voltage:* *Disabled*
> *Memory Frequency:* *DDR3-2000MHz*
> *DRAM Timing Control:* *Use the timings you see here in your copy of CPU-Z (yours are different from these)*
> *EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* Ultra High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Phase Control:* Extreme
> *Duty Control:* *Extreme*
> *CPU Current Capability:* *140% (this is safe because you're receiving help)
> *
> *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> *CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.025V
> *DRAM Voltage:* 1.65V *(is your memory really rated for 1.65V? Review that same section of CPU-Z from above)*
> 
> *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> *VCCIO Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
> *PCH Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* *Enabled*
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
> *Active Processor Cores:* All
> *Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
> *Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
> *Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *CPU C1E:* *Enabled*
> *CPU C3 Report:* Auto
> *CPU C6 Report:* Auto
> 
> Let's go for it!


I tried these settings with no luck...

But i did use the settings below and got it to work for 12 hours on prime95 blend test... all i changed was the bclk to 100 and multi to 47

Code:



Code:


** System Specs ** 
Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V Pro    Bios Ver: 0706
Processor: i7 2600k   Stepping: D2 
RAM: CMZ8GX3M2A Rated Sp/Cas: 1866C9 
GPU: GTX 580  SLI/CF: no
PSU: Corsair TX850w
Cooling: Air
OS: W7U x64 SP1

** Ai Tweaker **
Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 102.2
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 46
Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
Memory Freq: 1635
DRAM Timing Control: 9-10-9-24-CR2
EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
** Ai Tweaker\ CPU Management> **
CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
** Ai Tweaker\ (Digi+ VRM section) **
Load Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 130%
** Ai Tweaker\  (Voltage Section) **
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: Auto
DRAM Voltage: 1.50v
VCCSA Voltage: 1.06250v
VCCIO Voltage: 1.85000v
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.06000v
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
** Advanced\ CPU Configuration> **
CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled 
Intel Vitalization Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Auto
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Enabled

But i am having the double post thing on cold boots...lol


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;15107421*
> I tried these settings with no luck...
> 
> But i did use the settings below and got it to work for 12 hours on prime95 blend test... all i changed was the bclk to 100 and multi to 47
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> ** System Specs **
> Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V Pro    Bios Ver: 0706
> Processor: i7 2600k   Stepping: D2
> RAM: CMZ8GX3M2A Rated Sp/Cas: 1866C9
> GPU: GTX 580  SLI/CF: no
> PSU: Corsair TX850w
> Cooling: Air
> OS: W7U x64 SP1
> 
> ** Ai Tweaker **
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 102.2
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 46
> Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
> Memory Freq: 1635
> DRAM Timing Control: 9-10-9-24-CR2
> EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
> ** Ai Tweaker\ CPU Management> **
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> ** Ai Tweaker\ (Digi+ VRM section) **
> Load Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 130%
> ** Ai Tweaker\  (Voltage Section) **
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: Auto
> DRAM Voltage: 1.50v
> VCCSA Voltage: 1.06250v
> VCCIO Voltage: 1.85000v
> CPU PLL Voltage: 1.06000v
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> ** Advanced\ CPU Configuration> **
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Vitalization Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Auto
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Enabled
> 
> But i am having the double post thing on cold boots...lol


When you tried my settings using a BCLK of 100.0 MHz with a multi of 47, did you select "DDR3-1866MHz" in the UEFI? If not, then select DDR3-1866MHz and try again with the settings I recommended.

I think this is about the 3rd time I've mentioned this.


----------



## ocman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15102867*
> Wow... We are closing in on 4K posts for this Club!


Awesome gang!!!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15107719*
> When you tried my settings using a BCLK of 100.0 MHz with a multi of 47, did you select "DDR3-1866MHz" in the UEFI? If not, then select DDR3-1866MHz and try again with the settings I recommended.
> 
> I think this is about the 3rd time I've mentioned this.


It is the third time

BTW, I think you missed this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;15092209*
> Here are the results from the test i ran yesterday:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it did even worse than the 9-9-9-28-2T test. So i believe this is further proof that using Manual could lead to instability on some systems such as mine. Interestingly, i got BSOD 101 this time. Care to test this yourself?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: BIOS OC Settings
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Ai Tweaker*
> 
> *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
> *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> *By All Cores:* 46
> *Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
> *Memory Frequency:* 1600MHz
> 
> *DRAM Timing Control:* 8-8-8-24-2T
> 
> *EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
> *Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> *Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
> *Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> *Load-Line Calibration:* High
> *VRM Frequency:* Manual
> *VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
> *Phase Control:* Optimized
> *Duty Control:* T. Probe
> 
> *CPU Current Capability:* 120%
> *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> *CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.035V
> *DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V
> 
> *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> *VCCIO Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
> *PCH Voltage:* Auto
> *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> *Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
> *Active Processor Cores:* All
> *Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
> *Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
> *Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> *CPU C1E:* Enabled
> *CPU C3 Report:* Auto
> *CPU C6 Report:* Auto
> 
> 
> 
> *
> *The difference between the above settings which failed in 7.5h, and the settings i used that lasted 16-19h on 3 tests is Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual is set to XMP.
> 
> PS: I won't be testing this any further for the next week or so since ill be OCing my GTX570 for BF3


----------



## TwoCables

I have to admit that I don't feel up to testing it at this time. I'm focusing on other things.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15109752*
> I have to admit that I don't feel up to testing it at this time. I'm focusing on other things.


I'm going to assume that means you think my RAM instability issue could be true for others. I hope this works for other people, because if it does the same for them as it did for me, then everyone will be 24h+ stable on previously ~12h stable OCs.


----------



## slimex

Hey guys,

I get BSOD 124 while Prime testing (Custom Blend, 6000MB). The only thing I did, was switching off "Internal PLL Overvoltage", to get back the sleep mode capability. Now I can suspend, but the system is unstable. There have not been any worker errors in prime.

Here are my settings, as they were during my first test which ended with BSOD 124 after about 10-12h. Same settings with PLL Overvoltage enabled ran rock stable for 17h and an additional 12-13h.

*Ai Tweaker*

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 48
Internal PLL Overvoltage: *Disabled*
Memory Frequency: 2133
DRAM Timing Control: CL 9 - 11 - 9 - 28 - 2T
(same like in X.M.P. except the 2T, which is 1T there)
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >*

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
Long Duration Maintained: 32s
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

*Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)*

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.020V
DRAM Voltage: 1.65V
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: 1,15V
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

*Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >*

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Auto

I am getting Vcores from 1.384V to 1.392V.

After First BSOD 124 I adjusted "CPU PLL Voltage" to 1,70625V. Prime ran without errors until another BSOD after 14h.
Then I tried "CPU PLL Voltage" of 1,5V and got the same BSOD after about 5 hours.
At the moment, my system (at home) runs a test with CPU PLL Voltage back to 1,70625V and increased VCCIO Voltage of 1,15625. Not sure if this will succeed.

Can anyone give advice, how to get this stable without switching on "Internal PLL Overvoltage" ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


I'm going to assume that means you think my RAM instability issue could be true for others. I hope this works for other people, because if it does the same for them as it did for me, then everyone will be 24h+ stable on previously ~12h stable OCs.


To be honest, I really do mean that I'm not up to it right now. It's the weirdest thing for me to not be up to something like that, so maybe I'll come around soon. It's nothing bad, but I kinda go through phases like this (I'm the same way with everything).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


Hey guys,

I get BSOD 124 while Prime testing (Custom Blend, 6000MB). The only thing I did, was switching off "Internal PLL Overvoltage", to get back the sleep mode capability. Now I can suspend, but the system is unstable. There have not been any worker errors in prime.

Here are my settings, as they were during my first test which ended with BSOD 124 after about 10-12h. Same settings with PLL Overvoltage enabled ran rock stable for 17h and an additional 12-13h.

*Ai Tweaker*

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 48
Internal PLL Overvoltage: *Disabled*
Memory Frequency: 2133
DRAM Timing Control: CL 9 - 11 - 9 - 28 - 2T
(same like in X.M.P. except the 2T, which is 1T there)
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >*

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
Long Duration Maintained: 32s
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

*Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)*

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.020V
DRAM Voltage: 1.65V
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: 1,15V
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

*Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >*

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Auto

I am getting Vcores from 1.384V to 1.392V.

After First BSOD 124 I adjusted "CPU PLL Voltage" to 1,70625V. Prime ran without errors until another BSOD after 14h.
Then I tried "CPU PLL Voltage" of 1,5V and got the same BSOD after about 5 hours.
At the moment, my system (at home) runs a test with CPU PLL Voltage back to 1,70625V and increased VCCIO Voltage of 1,15625. Not sure if this will succeed.

Can anyone give advice, how to get this stable without switching on "Internal PLL Overvoltage" ?


What do the settings below do?

Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
Long Duration Maintained: 32s

I don't know anything about them. So, can you help me understand why you don't have them set to Auto?


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15110797*
> What do the settings below do?
> 
> Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
> Long Duration Maintained: 32s
> 
> I don't know anything about them. So, can you help me understand why you don't have them set to Auto?


This is set because of some random downclocking behavior I had, when this was on auto. Turbo mode was switched off automatically and got back on 30 seconds after.

I am using a RAM Voltage of 1,65V and a VCCIO Voltage of 1,15. Therefore I think the Auto config was too low for the power need of my cpu. Realtemp reports up to 120W under load.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


This is set because of some random downclocking behavior I had, when this was on auto. Turbo mode was switched off automatically and got back on 30 seconds after.

I am using a RAM Voltage of 1,65V and a VCCIO Voltage of 1,15. Therefore I think the Auto config was too low for the power need of my cpu. Realtemp reports up to 120W under load.


Oh, I think I remember you talking about this now.

It seems strange to me, but it's just like a friend of mine likes to say:_ "hey, as long as it works"_.


----------



## slimex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Oh, I think I remember you talking about this now.

It seems strange to me, but it's just like a friend of mine likes to say:_ "hey, as long as it works"_.










I have some doubt about this myself, but as you say, "as long as it works".
Unfortunately it is not easy to find someone clocking his ram 2133Mhz @ 1,65V. Otherwise I would eventually know if this is why it clocks down.

Do you have any advise regarding my BSOD 124 issues ?


----------



## turrican9

*PR-Imagery* added to the Club! Welcome!


----------



## slimex

Stable for 15,5h now, hope that VCCIO raise to 1,15625 solved the problem.


----------



## ZazzaZ

Hi, hope I'm posting in the right 3d...I'm planning on building a PC with the P8Z68 Deluxe and Asus Radeon HD 6950 EAH6950 DCII as vga card...since I'm planning on xfiring I was wondering if the two cards together will fit and if there'll be space enough for a cpu heatsink such as Thermalright Silver Arrow, just to name one. Thanks.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15110797*
> To be honest, I really do mean that I'm not up to it right now. It's the weirdest thing for me to not be up to something like that, so maybe I'll come around soon. It's nothing bad, but I kinda go through phases like this (I'm the same way with everything).


That's fine, it can wait. Just make sure you save a link to the post in notepad and put it on your desktop so you remember to do it when your ready. Also, make a note to PM when once you have done it, because i won't be checking the forum much now that the BF3 Beta is out


----------



## Sc4r3d

add me to the list, P8P67 Deluxe.. LOVE IT!


----------



## slimex

F**K! Again! BSOD 124 after 17,5h of Prime95 Custom Blend 6000MB. Will now raise VCCIO to 1,625 and start another Prime run.


----------



## rockstar900

Hello All,

I just brought an Asus P8Z68-V Motherboard and an Intel i5-2500K processor but I am unable to start Lucid virtu when I connect the VGA cable to PCI-E Graphics card (d-Mode) but it works well when I connect VGA to Motherboard (i-mode).

When I try to run Lucid-Virtu the error occurs *" No Intel HD Sandy bridge family Graphics Family device was found " 
*
I these made configuration to bios
1) iGpu for i-mode
2) PCI-E/PCI for d-mode

i also made this PCI/iGpu
But all this not worked well

The screen shot attached when I booted machine with PCI-E i.e. d-mode.


----------



## paradoxum

hey guys,
what drivers are essential from the DVD, and have any of them been updated since the DVD / where can I get the latest versions from?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


hey guys,
what drivers are essential from the DVD, and have any of them been updated since the DVD / where can I get the latest versions from?


Drivers you can download from Asus support
Essential would be chipset drivers, atleast for me and BIOS updates


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


Drivers you can download from Asus support
Essential would be chipset drivers, atleast for me and BIOS updates










well for example, the chipset file there is from 2010, is there no later version directly from Intel?
Edit: this looks like it might be the most recent http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Deta...and%20Examples

edit: also there are two USB drivers there, anyone know what the difference is, which one should I use?

do I need the intel rapid storage stuff, JMB thing, marvell drivers? (using an SSD in AHCI)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


well for example, the chipset file there is from 2010, is there no later version directly from Intel?


Actually, there is:

9.2.0.1030 from 4/21/2011

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


edit: also there are two USB drivers there, anyone know what the difference is, which one should I use?


If you are using any of the USB 3.0 ports, then you'd use the one that matches the name of the USB port in your Onboard Devices Configuration tab in your UEFI (probably Renesas, but double-check).

If you are not using any of the USB 3.0 ports, then you are free to disable them in the UEFI to free up system resources.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


do I need the intel rapid storage stuff, JMB thing, marvell drivers? (using an SSD in AHCI)


The JMB thing is for eSATA, and Marvell is for the navy blue SATA ports. So if you are not using either of those, then disable them in the Onboard Devices Configuration tab.

Intel Rapid Storage Technology is not necessary, but it does help with the general performance of your drives; so, I recommend it!


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Actually, there is:

9.2.0.1030 from 4/21/2011

If you are using any of the USB 3.0 ports, then you'd use the one that matches the name of the USB port in your Onboard Devices Configuration tab in your UEFI (probably Renesas, but double-check).

If you are not using any of the USB 3.0 ports, then you are free to disable them in the UEFI to free up system resources.









The JMB thing is for eSATA, and Marvell is for the navy blue SATA ports. So if you are not using either of those, then disable them in the Onboard Devices Configuration tab.

Intel Rapid Storage Technology is not necessary, but it does help with the general performance of your drives; so, I recommend it!


thanks

also correct me if i'm wrong but it seems like this is a more up to date version of the rapid storage thing too: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Deta...e=Drivers#help

this might be a more up to date LAN driver too: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Deta...18713&lang=eng


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


thanks

also correct me if i'm wrong but it seems like this is a more up to date version of the rapid storage thing too: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Deta...e=Drivers#help

this might be a more up to date LAN driver too: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Deta...18713&lang=eng


Oh yeah, I forgot that there's a newer version of Intel's RST! The same for the LAN driver.

Good catch.


----------



## slimex

Is there any benefit from flashing to bios ver. 0706 for P8Z68 Deluxe ? I do not have any compatibility problems right now. At least I did not recognize any.
And even if there is no benefit.....has anyone tested it with overclocked settings ? Would it hurt to install it ?


----------



## Zeromark

First of all Munaim thanks for the recommendation on the mobo + cpu combo, it was a blast!

And sorry to hear yours fried









Kinda happy, kinda disappointed.

I had a very ez time ocing the 2500k with this mobo. I had 5 ghz stable at vcore 1.44, life was good.

Then I plugged in new harddrives, or maybe it was the 150th BSOD as i pushed it further, but windows crapped out on me, and so did the harddrives. I couldn't reload windows for the life of me, but in the end It turned out I needed to reflash the BIOS, and update it.

Funny thing is with the most updated, most "stable" bios version. My 5.0 oc wasn't stable anymore.

Long story short, I'm happy because I currently have a solid OC of 4.8 ghz, at 1.36 vcore with temperatures <25 idle, and <60 full load.

Hour prime95, 20 inter burn test, running clean and cool. I think that for 24/7 I would rather keep my temps, and voltages like this, rather than the 4.950 ghz i recently had at 1.48 or so, at temps 70-75 tops.

Am I a wuss :?! I mean come on, ~60! I have 12 more degrees to burn

Really it also comes down to me wanting to actually use the computer, ahah.

I'm tired of having minor oc stability problems.


----------



## TFL Replica

Existing boards will be getting new UEFI updates with IB support. At least that will force them to upload something newer than 1850 beta. 3 months for a beta is just too much.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeromark;15134494*
> First of all Munaim thanks for the recommendation on the mobo + cpu combo, it was a blast!
> 
> And sorry to hear yours fried
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda happy, kinda disappointed.
> 
> I had a very ez time ocing the 2500k with this mobo. I had 5 ghz stable at vcore 1.44, life was good.
> 
> Then I plugged in new harddrives, or maybe it was the 150th BSOD as i pushed it further, but windows crapped out on me, and so did the harddrives. I couldn't reload windows for the life of me, but in the end It turned out I needed to reflash the BIOS, and update it.
> 
> Funny thing is with the most updated, most "stable" bios version. My 5.0 oc wasn't stable anymore.
> 
> Long story short, I'm happy because I currently have a solid OC of 4.8 ghz, at 1.36 vcore with temperatures <25 idle, and <60 full load.
> 
> Hour prime95, 20 inter burn test, running clean and cool. I think that for 24/7 I would rather keep my temps, and voltages like this, rather than the 4.950 ghz i recently had at 1.48 or so, at temps 70-75 tops.
> 
> Am I a wuss :?! I mean come on, ~60! I have 12 more degrees to burn
> 
> Really it also comes down to me wanting to actually use the computer, ahah.
> 
> I'm tired of having minor oc stability problems.


12 more degrees? You actually have 38 degrees to go before you reach the actual maximum safe core temperature (before it throttles itself down or turns itself off). 72 is just the tCase (it's 72.6), and the tCase is not the core temp. The tCase is measured on the outside of the finished CPU, right on the top on the same spot where we apply thermal paste.


----------



## Zeromark

Hey TwoCables (great name btw)
Can you send me a link with some proof of this? I swear I read max temp on the chip, is 72.6

Thanks


----------



## labbu63

hey guys seems that i found a problem with my Intel LAN not sure if it is driver or what but i have to uninstall driver then scan for hardware changes, and then it reinstalls the LAN drivers again until i do that i have this yellow triangle on my network but internet works fine with or without that triangle this happens each time the PC sleeps, shutdowns, or restarts.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeromark;15138199*
> Hey TwoCables (great name btw)
> Can you send me a link with some proof of this? I swear I read max temp on the chip, is 72.6
> 
> Thanks












Will this be enough of a proof?
Max temps on this bad boy is 98C we just don't feel comfortable with higher temps than 75C


----------



## turrican9

*Eaglake*

Tried HWiNFO 32/64 to see if you get same readings?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15138930*
> *Eaglake*
> 
> Tried HWiNFO 32/64 to see if you get same readings?


Sorry I might not get you, what readings? Temp., voltage? Well the frequency is gibberish i'm running 4.2GHz at stock voltages.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15139187*
> Sorry I might not get you, what readings? Temp., voltage? Well the frequency is gibberish i'm running 4.2GHz at stock voltages.


Sorry, I thought I saw Core 0 reading 98C! My misstake


----------



## labbu63

any help on my question guys? can't seem to get it solved


----------



## 179232

Anyone know if 1.3411v is too high for 4.3GHz?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ComradeNF*


Anyone know if 1.3411v is too high for 4.3GHz?


I would say yeah, you should be able to hit 4.5 /4.6ghz, have you tried increasing the multiplier and leaving vcore.

Like I said visit the Sandy Stable club where over 130 member's have provided details of their overclock. I compiled a spreadsheet with different sheets that has the data that may be useful to you. Come check it out.


----------



## morales.jacobj

Hi guys,

Can you please help me out. My Chassis Fan 1 header on the motherboard seems to not be providing enough voltage on my week old motherboard. I would like to know if you guys are seeing this issue or not.

I have two 200mm fans. One on Chassis 1, the other on Chassis 2. The chassis 1 fan reads around 490RPM while chassis 2 reads 741RPM. This is at idle.

If i remove the dynamic fan control option, chassis fan 1 will only increase to 700RPM while chassis fan 2 will go upwards off 1000RPM+. I have tried a 120MM on chassis fan 1 and it still runs terribly slow.

I am about to return the board and get a new one if this is not normal before my 15day period ends. So basically, do your motherboards give equal fan speed for chassis fan 1 and 2, or is this normal?

And yes, this is how it reads in the BIOS also, so its not an asus software issue. Also I have tried to remove chassis fan 2 to see if it was a voltage distribution issue, but #1 still reads the same.

On P8z68-V Pro motherboard.

Thanks guys!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zeromark*


Hey TwoCables (great name btw)
Can you send me a link with some proof of this? I swear I read max temp on the chip, is 72.6

Thanks


http://ark.intel.com/products/52210/...he-3_30-GHz%29

It says that the "T Case" is 72.6Â°C. The initial proof is in the term "T Case". The "case" is the metal part that you can see; the cores are inside. More proof follows after the following definition of "T Case".

On the old version of this Intel page I linked to you, they used to have a definition for it, and it was as follows (it used to be called the Thermal Specification, but now it's just "T Case"):

_"*Thermal Specification:* The thermal specification shown is the maximum case temperature at the maximum Thermal Design Power (TDP) value for that processor. It is measured at the geometric center on the topside of the processor integrated heat spreader.

For processors without integrated heat spreaders such as mobile processors, the thermal specification is referred to as the junction temperature (Tj). The maximum junction temperature is defined by an activation of the processor IntelÂ® Thermal Monitor. The Intel Thermal Monitor's automatic mode is used to indicate that the maximum TJ has been reached."_

Notice that it says in the first line _"maximum *case* temperature"_. Also notice that the Thermal Specification (which is now known as the "T Case") is measured "at the geometric center on the topside of the processor integrated heat spreader". This means it is measured at the same place where we apply thermal paste which means it is not measured at the cores.

So if the maximum case temperature is 72.6Â°C, then how hot do you suppose the cores would need to be in order to make the case become that hot? On average, about 20-25Â°C hotter!

The Thermaljunction Maximum (the Tj. Max) is the maximum safe temperature, and for the 2500K and 2600K it is 98Â°C. That is exactly 25.4Â°C hotter than the T Case.

Further proof: most people who are overclocking the 2500K and 2600K are exceeding 72.6Â°C without any problems whatsoever. This is because their temps are still very safe since they're still well below 98Â°C.

Finally: look at Real Temp. It shows the "Distance to TJ Max". The reason why it shows this is to be able to tell at a glace how far away you are from the maximum safe temperature as specified by Intel.

So if 72.6Â°C were the maximum safe core temperature, then most of us here would have killed our CPUs a long time ago.


----------



## Zeromark

Thanks Cables appreciate it.

Right now I'm getting BSODs not when im an hour deep into a stress test, but when i idle after it. I think i have to turn down all the power saving jazz.

Or maybe just go back to manual voltages.


----------



## Micke_2000

Hello everybody,

I came across this thread/club while searching a solution for my problem.

A couple of days ago I restarted my computer, and it wouldn't ever turn on again.
I have tried everything I can think of in order to make it boot, but it just won't.

It goes like this, when I power on there is a short burst of power going through and the fans all spin up during these milliseconds and then the power dies.

However if I unplug the 8-pin 12V connector the power stays on.
Also the board indicates power to the board at all times.

So I came across the voltage bug mentioned in the original post. Is this what happened here, are these symptoms typical?

I was pretty sure it was a faulty board before entering this thread, but now it might swell be the CPU that is faulty?

What do you guys think? Thanks!

Edit: Oh right, I forgot to update my system specs. I'm using a i5 2500K.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeromark;15145750*
> Thanks Cables appreciate it.
> 
> Right now I'm getting BSODs not when im an hour deep into a stress test, but when i idle after it. I think i have to turn down all the power saving jazz.
> 
> Or maybe just go back to manual voltages.


Believe it or not, all you have to do is change the settings for "CPU C3 Report" and "CPU C6 Report" to either "Auto" or "Disabled". I mean, if they're set to Enabled right now, then set them to Auto. If they're already set to Auto, then change them to Disabled.

As for CPU C1E and Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology and CPU Spread Spectrum, they should all be left set to Enabled.

Changing the setting for both C3 and C6 will cause the idle voltage to be slightly higher which will cause it to be just high enough to avoid BSODs while idling.


----------



## alw71

I have a p8z68 v pro and I've installed the 24 pin power to the mother board but the other end has a shorter connection with another 8 pin attached to it now do i leave that out of the power supply or plug it in?
Much appreciate any help thank you.
Sorry the power supply i have is an ax 850 thankyou.


----------



## paradoxum

quick question, when running Prime95 to test stability what option should I use? i've been using the "in place large TFFTS" (or whatever it is) because it says max power / heat.

thanks


----------



## Alex132

Use blend, it find the instability a lot faster than the other options.


----------



## 179232

Hey guys, just wanted to make sure my OC settings on my P8Z68 look good and that nothing is out of place. I am looking for the most stable possible voltages while still keeping my chip healthy for a long time.


----------



## paradoxum

1.3611 VID @ Prime95 100% Load
4.7GHz
1.260vCore manually set, but in cpu-z it goes up to 1.272

what offset (+/-) should I use for that?

also how do the temps look?










thanks


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15148514*
> 1.3611 VID @ Prime95 100% Load
> 4.7GHz
> 1.260vCore manually set, but in cpu-z it goes up to 1.272
> 
> what offset (+/-) should I use for that?
> 
> also how do the temps look?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


How are you getting such low voltage for such an overclock?
Is it 100% stable? And I mean like folding stable


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132;15148591*
> How are you getting such low voltage for such an overclock?
> Is it 100% stable? And I mean like folding stable


I don't know how stable it is yet, i'm just running prime95 until something happens.


----------



## Pavix

Can I be added?


----------



## 179232

Anyone know what tests I should run to find instability the fastest? By fast I mean that I want to find instability in under 30 minutes before I try a lower voltage.

I am at 4.5GHz right now, 1.296v. Intel Burn Test worked fine on maximum.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15148694*
> Anyone know what tests I should run to find instability the fastest? By fast I mean that I want to find instability in under 30 minutes before I try a lower voltage.
> 
> I am at 4.5GHz right now, 1.296v. Intel Burn Test worked fine on maximum.


try running the 1344 and 1792 FFT's via custom blend test, 15mins each should be good. Those are the hardest fft's on Sandybridge, however there not that reliable, so if it starts showing signs of inconsistancy, then just use standard blend test with 90% of your available RAM.


----------



## turrican9

*Pavix*

Added! Welcome!


----------



## samuel002

Anyone experience this problem? when i restart/start my comp i get a delay on the Logo Screen for about 10-30 seconds before it starts into windows or bios if i'm going into bios my system is stock.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15149293*
> Anyone experience this problem? when i restart/start my comp i get a delay on the Logo Screen for about 10-30 seconds before it starts into windows or bios if i'm going into bios my system is stock.


This began to suddenly happen? No Hardware changes or anything?


----------



## 179232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;15149007*
> try running the 1344 and 1792 FFT's via custom blend test, 15mins each should be good. Those are the hardest fft's on Sandybridge, however there not that reliable, so if it starts showing signs of inconsistancy, then just use standard blend test with 90% of your available RAM.


Can you take a picture of *exactly* what the custom Prime95 screen should look like with those values types in? Just want to make sure I am doing it right.


----------



## samuel002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149382*
> This began to suddenly happen? No Hardware changes or anything?


I only added a sound card yesterday and a M4 3 weeks ago.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15149405*
> Can you take a picture of *exactly* what the custom Prime95 screen should look like with those values types in? Just want to make sure I am doing it right.


6000MB since you have 8GB. And I would recommend 30 minutes instead of 15 minutes shown in the picture. After this, go for the 1792KB test. Also for 30 minutes. Just type 1792 instead of 1344 in both fields.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15149430*
> I only added a sound card yesterday and a M4 3 weeks ago.


Tried taking out the Soundcard?


----------



## samuel002

i'll do it right now.


----------



## 179232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149442*
> 6000MB since you have 8GB. And I would recommend 30 minutes instead of 15 minutes shown in the picture. After this, go for the 1792KB test. Also for 30 minutes. Just type 1792 instead of 1344 in both fields.


Thanks. I am running the test right now. Is it normal that my CPU doesn't get as hot in this test as in the blend test?


----------



## samuel002

Yeah, its the sound card... sigh dunno what happpened..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15149524*
> Thanks. I am running the test right now. Is it normal that my CPU doesn't get as hot in this test as in the blend test?


This is also a Blend test. The Difference is that you're just using one of the FFT's instead of all the different sizes. The bigger the FFT, the cooler the CPU will run, yet the 1344 and 1792KB FFT's seems to be more demanding for Sandybridge systems VS the smaller FFT's.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15149534*
> Yeah, its the sound card... sigh dunno what happpened..


Was it installed in the PCI-E 4x slot? If so, try to set it to 1x in bios


----------



## 179232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149550*
> This is also a Blend test. The Difference is that you're just using one of the FFT's instead of all the different sizes. The bigger the FFT, the cooler the CPU will run, yet the 1344 and 1792KB FFT's seems to be more demanding for Sandybridge systems VS the smaller FFT's.


Alright cool, thanks.

Just one thing, when I type 6000 into the memory field, it doesn't increase my RAM being used at all when I start the test, only my CPU load goes to 100%. I tried 5000MB as well with the same issue. Any ideas?


----------



## samuel002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149558*
> Was it installed in the PCI-E 4x slot? If so, try to set it to 1x in bios


I installed it to the PCI (blue one).


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15149578*
> Alright cool, thanks.
> 
> Just one thing, when I type 6000 into the memory field, it doesn't increase my RAM being used at all when I start the test, only my CPU load goes to 100%. I tried 5000MB as well with the same issue. Any ideas?


Try this gadget to look at your RAM usage..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15149593*
> I installed it to the PCI (blue one).


Then try the other blue PCI slot


----------



## 179232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149596*
> Try this gadget to look at your RAM usage..


I actually have that installed, and it shows 26%. Coretemp and Task Manager also only show 26%


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15149606*
> I actually have that installed, and it shows 26%. Coretemp and Task Manager also only show 26%


Make sure you use the latest version of Prime95. If you do, try and restart your system to see if that helps..


----------



## samuel002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149605*
> Then try the other blue PCI slot


----------



## turrican9

*Intense*, a P8Z68-V PRO owner, added to the Club! Welcome!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15149682*
> Now it happens when i restart through windows. >.<


Try and disable everything you do not use. Like Serial ports, Firewire, JMicron, Marvell etc.. to see if it could be some kind of IRQ problem..


----------



## 179232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149617*
> Make sure you use the latest version of Prime95. If you do, try and restart your system to see if that helps..


Still does not work after reboot. I'll try latest version of Prime and report back.

Blend seems to work fine though, as soon as I test with Blend RAM jumps very high.


----------



## samuel002

Should i disable my on-board sound through bios? and I have Jmicron,Marvell disabled like all the time.


----------



## 179232

Tried latest version, works now! Thanks man. Repped.

Also, can I join the club?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15149743*
> Tried latest version, works now! Thanks man. Repped.
> 
> Also, can I join the club?


You're quite welcome







And thanks









I've added you. Welcome!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15149734*
> Should i disable my on-board sound through bios? and I have Jmicron,Marvell disabled like all the time.


Yes, you should try that. Not wise to use more than one soundcard. That may be you problem.


----------



## 179232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149780*
> You're quite welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've added you. Welcome!


One quick question before I continue my OC session:

Is it normal that my core voltage jumps between 1.296v and 1.304v every couple of seconds while running Prime95? I just want to make sure my CPU won't wear out faster because of these small voltage jumps.


----------



## samuel002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149798*
> Yes, you should try that. Not wise to use more than one soundcard. That may be you problem.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15149802*
> One quick question before I continue my OC session:
> 
> Is it normal that my core voltage jumps between 1.296v and 1.304v every couple of seconds while running Prime95? I just want to make sure my CPU won't wear out faster because of these small voltage jumps.


Yes, it will vary a little bit with different load. Even if you use LLC at Ultra high. Perfectly normal


----------



## 179232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149821*
> Yes, it will vary a little bit with different load. Even if you use LLC at Ultra high. Perfectly normal


Perfect, thanks!

Just noticed you are from Norway btw. I was born and raised in Sweden for the majority of my life, and moved to the United States last year from Sweden.

Been to Norway plenty of times, I used to always go to Trysil for ski trips. Been to Tromso a few times as well.

Anyway won't get too off topic now. Thanks again for the help!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15149815*
> after disabling everything, exactly what you told me. after i exit bios i still get that hold time 10-30 seconds.. >.<


What soundcard?


----------



## samuel002

Asus Xonar DG 5.1 Sound card


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15149864*
> Asus Xonar DG 5.1 Sound card


Could not find anything on google.

But just a blind-shot.. Try this:

_go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down._


----------



## 179232

I got this on my 4th core after 12 minutes:

Fatal Error: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 4.0

Is this a voltage issue or a RAM issue?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15149966*
> I got this on my 4th core after 12 minutes:
> 
> Fatal Error: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 4.0
> 
> Is this a voltage issue or a RAM issue?


Try upping Vcore a couple of notches, and try again. What speed are you trying? 4.5GHz?


----------



## 179232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149975*
> Try upping Vcore a couple of notches, and try again. What speed are you trying? 4.5GHz?


Yeah, 4.5GHz with 1.296v. System never goes above 75 degrees either, so temps are not causing it. Could it be a RAM issue? The RAM is set to 1600Mhz, completely stock settings.

I'll try to raise my voltage a bit. 1.296v sounds like a lot though for 4.5GHz.

Should I set RAM to 1333MHz and then try, or try raising voltage first?


----------



## samuel002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15149935*
> Could not find anything on google.
> 
> But just a blind-shot.. Try this:
> 
> _go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down._


I tried that and this time i let it boot into windows and let it shutdown turned it back on after 20 seconds and i had to wait about 45 seconds until logo screen disappear.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ComradeNF*


Yeah, 4.5GHz with 1.296v. System never goes above 75 degrees either, so temps are not causing it. Could it be a RAM issue? The RAM is set to 1600Mhz, completely stock settings.

I'll try to raise my voltage a bit. 1.296v sounds like a lot though for 4.5GHz.

Should I set RAM to 1333MHz and then try, or try raising voltage first?


It's most certainly a Vcore issue. In fact, I had a 2500K that required about 1.37v Vcore full load in order to be Blend stable at 4.5GHz. Some even needs more. So yours needing a tad over 1.3v Vcore at full load is perfectly normal.

Also remember that your isolating the hardest FFT's now. 1792KB FFT is even harder VS 1344 FFT. So if you can pass these two, you have a very good chance of making the usual Blend preset for 12 hours +. If you havent tried these two FFT's first hand, you would probably have wasted hours and hours for the errors turning up in the usual preset. These two FFT's turns up after many hours when you run Blend the normal way.

As I've said, up the Vcore a notch or two and try again.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


I tried that and this time i let it boot into windows and let it shutdown turned it back on after 20 seconds and i had to wait about 45 seconds until logo screen disappear.


Do you have another computer to try out that soundcard? To find out if it's a faulty soundcard or a compatability issue..


----------



## 179232

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


It's most certainly a Vcore issue. In fact, I had a 2500K that required about 1.37v Vcore full load in order to be Blend stable at 4.5GHz. Some even needs more. So yours needing a tad over 1.3v Vcore at full load is perfectly normal.

Also remember that your isolating the hardest FFT's now. 1792KB FFT is even harder VS 1344 FFT. So if you can pass these two, you have a very good chance of making the usual Blend preset for 12 hours +. If you havent tried these two FFT's first hand, you would probably have wasted hours and hours for the errors turning up in the usual preset. These two FFT's turns up after many hours when you run Blend the normal way.

As I've said, up the Vcore a notch or two and try again.


Sounds good. I'm using offset voltage right now at -0.5. Should I set it to -0.4?

UEFI Bios is crazy, still not used to it


----------



## 179232

Oops, I meant -0.05

Sent from my GT-I9100


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ComradeNF*


Sounds good. I'm using offset voltage right now at -0.5. Should I set it to -0.4?

UEFI Bios is crazy, still not used to it










You are talking about - 0.050 and not - 0.5? right?


----------



## 179232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15150090*
> You are talking about - 0.050 and not - 0.5? right?


Yes, just corrected that above







. Trying -0.04 now.

Sent from my GT-I9100


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15150086*
> Oops, I meant -0.05
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100


Then try - 0.030


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15150102*
> Yes, just corrected that above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Trying -0.04 now.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100


-0.040 is to close.. You could fail due to fluctuations in Vcore. I would try - 0.030 or - 0.020


----------



## 179232

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Then try - 0.030


Alright, will try -0.03.

Also, where can I download memtest? I want to let that run tonight so I can make sure my new RAM is in good condition, I still have 13 days to return it.


----------



## samuel002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Do you have another computer to try out that soundcard? To find out if it's a faulty soundcard or a compatability issue..


Well the sound card works >.< and i dont have another computer to test it on >.<


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ComradeNF*


Alright, will try -0.03.

Also, where can I download memtest? I want to let that run tonight so I can make sure my new RAM is in good condition, I still have 13 days to return it.


http://www.memtest.org/


----------



## 179232

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


http://www.memtest.org/


Perfect, ty. Trying 1344 on -0.03 now. Will report back in an hour.

Sent from my GT-I9100


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


Well the sound card works >.< and i dont have another computer to test it on >.<


1850 beta bios? Maybe try older bios versions?


----------



## samuel002

I am using the beta bios i'll try 1704 then >.<


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15150194*
> I have the latest bios on this board. I dont think im using beta.


If so, maybe you should try the latest 1850 beta? Many people have been using it for months without issue..


----------



## samuel002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


If so, maybe you should try the latest 1850 beta? Many people have been using it for months without issue..


My bad I am using the beta bios for months i'll go ahead and try a older one.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


My bad I am using the beta bios for months i'll go ahead and try a older one.


I would suggest the retail 1502 or the beta 1606. I think the 1704 is very similar to the 1850 beta.


----------



## turrican9

*WC_EEND*, a P8P67 Deluxe owner added to the Club! Welcome!


----------



## samuel002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15150256*
> I would suggest the retail 1502 or the beta 1606. I think the 1704 is very similar to the 1850 beta.


Oh, but after removing the sound card I still get that hold time on the logo screen but its not that long...

Hope that I dont need to do a RMA


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


Oh, but after removing the sound card I still get that hold time on the logo screen but its not that long...

Hope that I dont need to do a RMA


How is your stability? Try taking out one stick of RAM. Try both sticks individual.

Edit: I see you have 4 sticks... Well... Then get to it.. You never know..

Edit2: Also try unplugging all USB devices appart from keyboard.


----------



## samuel002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15150449*
> How is your stability? Try taking out one stick of RAM. Try both sticks individual.
> 
> Edit: I see you have 4 sticks... Well... Then get to it.. You never know..
> 
> Edit2: Also try unplugging all USB devices appart from keyboard.


I only have 2 sticks and I just tested it with each sticks i can boot into windows no problem but i have to wait while since the hold time on the logo screen still.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


I only have 2 sticks and I just tested it with each sticks i can boot into windows no problem but i have to wait while since the hold time on the logo screen still.


Tried unplugging most of your USB devices?


----------



## samuel002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Tried unplugging most of your USB devices?


Yeah, tried everything still does it when i already took out the sound card.. Dunno how to fix it.. the system is stock since May and i never had a problem with it until yesterday.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


Yeah, tried everything still does it when i already took out the sound card.. Dunno how to fix it.. the system is stock since May and i never had a problem with it until yesterday.


Try taking out the cmos battery, short cmos for 15 minutes, then put the battery and jumper back and give it a new try..


----------



## samuel002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15150772*
> Try taking out the cmos battery, short cmos for 15 minutes, then put the battery and jumper back and give it a new try..


would it be my external hardrive causing the problem?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


would it be my external hardrive causing the problem?


Did you not try unplugging all USB devices appart from the keyboard?


----------



## samuel002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Did you not try unplugging all USB devices appart from the keyboard?


Yeah, forgot my external hardrive... My bad had alot of usb Xbox controller/mouse/webcam etc

this time i only had to wait 5 seconds.


----------



## samuel002

im like 75% sure that it's the external hardrive because in bios it creates 3rd boot option im guessing this is slowing down the boot time


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


im like 75% sure that it's the external hardrive because in bios it creates 3rd boot option im guessing this is slowing down the boot time


Yeah, it most likely was the issue..


----------



## samuel002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15151078*
> Yeah, it most likely was the issue..


Yeah im gonna try to install my sound back see the issue is solved

SOLVED!!! no problems with hold time!!! Thanks +rep!

I think the best club i ever joined on this site


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samuel002*


Yeah im gonna try to install my sound back see the issue is solved

SOLVED!!! no problems with hold time!!! Thanks +rep!

I think the best club i ever joined on this site










Great!









Thanks


----------



## alw71

On my sata power cable there are two sata conectors. Which one do i use? The end one or the one between the power and the end connector.Im trying to install my hard drive and then install my dvd drive. There are so many connectiors on the one lead. Sorry for being a dope.
P.s its a P8Z68 V Pro
and im installing AX850


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alw71*


On my sata power cable there are two sata conectors. Which one do i use? The end one or the one between the power and the end connector. Sorry for being a dope.
P.s its a P8Z68 V Pro
and im installing AX850


It won't matter. Both of them will work perfect.


----------



## alw71

Ok nice one. Btw im only installing one 6gb sata drive so is there an option i have to set in the bios instea of rade 0. Is it stripe or something?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alw71*


Ok nice one. Btw im only installing one 6gb sata drive so is there an option i have to set in the bios instea of rade 0. Is it stripe or something?


You just connect it to a white SATA 6Gbit connector and all should be fine. No need to set anything.


----------



## paradoxum

reposting;

1.3611 VID @ Prime95 100% Load
4.7GHz
1.275vCore manually set, but in cpu-z it shows to 1.272-1.280 (stays at 1.272 mostly but sometimes goes up to 1.280 for a second)

what offset (+/-) should I use for that?

also how do the temps look?










thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15152147*
> reposting;
> 
> 1.3611 VID @ Prime95 100% Load
> 4.7GHz
> 1.275vCore manually set, but in cpu-z it shows to 1.272-1.280 (stays at 1.272 mostly but sometimes goes up to 1.280 for a second)
> 
> what offset (+/-) should I use for that?
> 
> also how do the temps look?
> 
> thanks


I would try Offset: - (Minus) 0.080 to see where that brings you.

Your temps looks fine.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15152416*
> I would try Offset: - (Minus) 0.080 to see where that brings you.
> 
> Your temps looks fine.


thanks! the voltages in cpu-z are the same when set manually, except now it's mostly on 1.280 and flicks down to 1.272 for a second or two. seems to be running good









I've been trying to knock it up to 4.8ghz but I can't even get past the windows logo now, when the other day I was able to boot at 5ghz :/ all the other settings are using TwoCables template


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15152463*
> thanks! the voltages in cpu-z are the same when set manually, except now it's mostly on 1.280 and flicks down to 1.272 for a second or two. seems to be running good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been trying to knock it up to 4.8ghz but I can't even get past the windows logo now, when the other day I was able to boot at 5ghz :/ all the other settings are using TwoCables template


I've found that in my P8P67 PRO it will sometimes boot Windows with Internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled, when at x49 and up, but other times it needs to be enabled. Strangely enough...

So you should try and enable Internal PLL Overvoltage when going x48 + on the CPU multi.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15152489*
> I've found that in my P8P67 PRO it will sometimes boot Windows with Internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled, when at x49 and up, but other times it needs to be enabled. Strangely enough...
> 
> So you should try and enable Internal PLL Overvoltage when going x48 + on the CPU multi.


thanks, I got into windows enabling that. are there any downsides to having it enabled?
I guess now i'll keep testing if it's stable, up the voltage if needed then up the multi rinse/repeat to find the highest stable clock?

thanks again


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15152545*
> thanks, I got into windows enabling that. are there any downsides to having it enabled?
> I guess now i'll keep testing if it's stable, up the voltage if needed then up the multi rinse/repeat to find the highest stable clock?
> 
> thanks again


Only downside to having it enabled, as far as I know, is that hibernate will no longer work.

And yes, up the Vcore until it's stable.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15152563*
> Only downside to having it enabled, as far as I know, is that hibernate will no longer work.
> 
> And yes, up the Vcore until it's stable.


to increase it, do I change the offset from -0.080 to -0.075 from where I am at now?

thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15152623*
> to increase it, do I change the offset from -0.080 to -0.075 from where I am at now?
> 
> thanks


Yes, that is correct. However, if you were at the limit Vcore wise, when at 4.7GHz, you will probably need a bigger bump for 4.8GHz.

To calculate the Offset Vcore, you just look at the current VID (VID Can vary a little with CPU speed) and work from there.

Example: VID = 1.3611, if you set Offset to - 0.050 it would equal to about 1.3111. If you use Offset + 0.050 it would equal to about 1.4111.

You catch my drift? Pretty simple really. Of course you must have LLC at Ultra High or something to remedy the Vdroop. But looks like you already have it set.

Edit: But remember, at 4.8GHz you may get 1.3711 for VID. Then Offset - 0.050 would equal to 1.3211 instead


----------



## alw71

Do i have to install the extra two 3.0 usb connector onto the p8z68 board as it stretches right across it? Will it work with the back two on my 600t already?
Cheers, Ads!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71;15152758*
> Do i have to install the extra two 3.0 usb connector onto the p8z68 board as it stretches right across it? Will it work with the back two on my 600t already?
> Cheers, Ads!


No, you don't have to install those two extra ports. The two on the back of your mobo (Two blue ones) will still work just fine.


----------



## alw71

I have tried to put it in but when i thread it through the grommet as in the link i will provide it doesnt reach the port when i thread it back through the gromet below. How would i do this. I'm not going to put it in but i am curious how hes managed to do that.
http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/831636-official-corsair-graphite-club-342.html
Cheers Turrican9 btw


----------



## TwoCables

91 posts since my last post. I'll come back when I've had more sleep!


----------



## richardt

Is it better to o/c to 4.4ghz using default settings or twocables' settings?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *richardt*


Is it better to o/c to 4.4ghz using default settings or twocables' settings?


You could use two cables bios settings, however as every chip is different, your's may require more or less voltage than his, but it would probably be a good starting point. Just a note, his settings are for a 4.8ghz overclock, which you could try for aswell, providin that you have decent cooling.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *richardt*


Is it better to o/c to 4.4ghz using default settings or twocables' settings?


My settings are there as more of a starting point, to get the ball rolling. So the best settings are always your settings because what works for one guy won't necessarily work for another.


----------



## richardt

I see. Also, is it alright to leave llc on auto and use vcore - offset? I see that setting llc on high boosts up the vcore and temp and I have to run an offset of -0.03 to bring down everything. Wouldn't it be better to leave llc on auto or regular and do vcore offset from that?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *richardt*


I see. Also, is it alright to leave llc on auto and use vcore - offset? I see that setting llc on high boosts up the vcore and temp and I have to run an offset of -0.03 to bring down everything. Wouldn't it be better to leave llc on auto or regular and do vcore offset from that?


LLC helps eliminate the vdroop under load, not sure what setting it actually uses when it runs auto, therefore it'd be best to actually set it to a specific value/setting, in this case Ultra high or High would workj the best.

Using the negative offset allows you to reduce the vcore by decreasing from the VID, so if you need the voltage to be 1.355 under load and the VID shows 1.375, then you could use the negative offset and 0.020 to reduce it to 1.355v.


----------



## richardt

I ran prime95 on 44 x 100 with llc on high, c1e enabled, spread spectrum and pll ov. disabled. I get a VID of 3.661 but when I run cpuid with prime95 I get 1.28v-1.29v. I'm not sure how much better I can get with this. Vcore offset is -0.03. Will the extra lower vcore benefits be minimal? I get load temps of 66c and it runs at 30 - 40c on idle. Cooler is Noctua se2.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *richardt*


I ran prime95 on 44 x 100 with llc on high, c1e enabled, spread spectrum and pll ov. disabled. I get a VID of 3.661 but when I run cpuid with prime95 I get 1.28v-1.29v. I'm not sure how much better I can get with this. Vcore offset is -0.03. Will the extra lower vcore benefits be minimal?


if it's stable then yeah, ofcourse the lower the vcore the better it is.


----------



## munaim1

Go here and add you sig rig so that we know what your running:

http://www.overclock.net/specs.php

Once you fill it in, you won't have to do it again and it can be viewable by everyone everywhere in the forum.


----------



## richardt

What stress test do you recommend? I can leave my computer on overnight but if it crashes when I'm sleeping that will be such a waste of time as I can't wake up and increase the vcore and restart the test. On another note, I did half an hour of bf3 gaming and my video card jumped up to 76c load. It use to be under 70. The 4.4ghz is heating everything up.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *richardt*


What stress test do you recommend? I can leave my computer on overnight but if it crashes when I'm sleeping that will be such a waste of time as I can't wake up and increase the vcore and restart the test. On another note, I did half an hour of bf3 gaming and my video card jumped up to 76c load. It use to be under 70. The 4.4ghz is heating everything up.


I recommend running Prime blend (custom) with 90% of your available RAM. It is considered to be the best tester for sandybridge, a minimum of 12hours is preferred and maybe longer if you do folding etc.

Not so sure about ATI temps, but on my card I think it's max is something like 105c. So 76c for a gpu under load doesn't really seem like a lot, I wouldn't worry about it, you could always create a fan profile with MSI afterburner.

When you get a chance, have a little read at the Sandy Stable CLub, I've added a a few notes and there are a lot of info regarding sndybridge in the first post of the thread.

Link is in my sig just below









Hope that helps









One last thing, you can use the spreadsheet and the different sheets available to compare your overclock with other's, I've recorded temps, the type of cooling used, the voltage and overclock obtained. Im sure it'll help you compare with other's.


----------



## bradleyg5

I just got a P8P67 deluxe board and a 2500k. What I'm interested to know is if there have been any confirmed cases of chips dying that were running high but within spec voltages.

I read a lot of places stating 1.4 being the end of the safe 24/7 use but as far as I can tell this is completely based on nothing but fear.

I mean I understand the power and heat concerns, in that you don't want to waste power and running the chip near it's thermal limit could harm it. But with proper cooling I can't find any evidence that running under 1.52 will cause it to degrade more than a chip running 1.3

So has there been people who have wrecked chips? or noticed increased instability?


----------



## alw71

Can someone please tell me what cable i use to plug in the dvd drive and what port please? Its on the P8Z68 V Pro. I take its not the 6GB cable (grey) but the black cable that says sata? There are 4 light blue connections does it matter which one i chooseto connect the sata lead too?
Also which connection do i conect the hard disk too? Is it the gray ones or dark blue ones?
Also does it matter if i choose the top or bottom of the two.
I would really apreciate some help on this gents, thanks in advance.


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71;15159234*
> Can someone please tell me what cable i use to plug in the dvd drive and what port please? Its on the P8Z68 V Pro. I take its not the 6GB cable (grey) but the black cable that says sata? There are 4 light blue connections does it matter which one i chooseto connect the sata lead too?
> Also which connection do i conect the hard disk too? Is it the gray ones or dark blue ones?
> Also does it matter if i choose the top or bottom of the two.
> I would really apreciate some help on this gents, thanks in advance.


Connect the DVD drive to a sata 3 port using a 3gb cable (I'm assuming the black one, but it doesn't really matter). The DVD drive should plug into one of the light blue sata ports on the MoBo (preferable the top outboard connection, but once again, it really shouldn't matter). The connectors are numbered (you can read the numbers on the board), which will make it easier to ID what is what when you get to your bios.

You can connect the hard drive to the grey mobo connection, using the 6gb or 3gb cable. It doesn't really matter, as I don't think anything you have runs at Sata 6 (6gb).

As a breakdown, the dark blue connectors are for Sata 6 marvell products (I wouldn't use them unless you know a product supports them, but I don't know of anyone having any real issues using them anyways), the grey connectors are standard intel Sata 6, and then all the light blue connectors are Sata 3. Hope this helps!

Edit: It's okay to use a 3gb device on a 6gb port or cable, it's just not going to help the device go any faster. If you ever end up with a Sata 6 device, you're going to want to be sure you use the right port/cable in order to get that 6gb transfer rate. If you use a 3gb port for a 6gb device, the device can only go as fast as the port will allow.


----------



## lowirve

I get a problem about updating the bios. My current version is 0501. And I noticed that there are two new versions available now, 0606 and 0706. And 0606 is much larger than 0706. If I wanna update bios to the latest version, do i need to install 0606 then 0706, or I just need to install 0706. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Arimis5226

The 0606 and 0501 BIOS downloads also come with IRST. The 0706 only seems to come with the ROM file. I haven't updated to 0706 myself, but I would think you would want to update the BIOS in increments in order to keep IRST up to date. This is a good question though. Historically, you wouldn't have to install the other BIOS, but with the IRST requirements, that may be different. It wouldn't hurt to just do the 0606 update first, as it should only take a few minutes (be sure to follow the directions in the readme for updating IRST).


----------



## lowirve

I have already updated to 0706 directly. No problem right now. But through cpuz, i noticed my stock gpu memory is still 256MB(-238MB in cpuz), not 512MB as indicated in 0606. Does 0706 include update from 0606? Since I am using integrated graphic card now, I really want to increase the IGD share memory to 512MB.


----------



## james_k_p

Hey Experts,
New Guy here looking for some help. I'm at my wits end with my rig.

I'm about to disassemble my rig and ship my board off for a RMA with Asus, but I wanted to ask what you guys think. I was just reading more new egg reviews when some guy put that he had to google for his OC settings as the auto was too conservative and was getting "lockups". Well I googled, and it led me here.

This is my story. I built this system for video capping/editing/streaming. Since day one, I've had BSOD issues. I've figured out I had multiple issues going on.

#1 was the OCZ Solid3 SSD. It seems that on earlier firmware, it would crash. This was easy to figure out because when it locked/crashed, the hard disk light would be solid. After updating it's firmware, this issue had disappeared.

Crashes continued. So I updated the mb bios to 0606, updated all drivers, etc. Still get crashes. Ran memtest, no problems found.

I have the auto OC on nothing extreme, I think it auto tuned it to run at 4.4 on load. I'm not to much into OCing as I Just need this to work and I really don't care about tweaking the last couple hundred of mhz out of it.

After still thinking that MAYBE it was something still with the OCZ, I went ahead and bought an Intel 510 SSD, did a fresh install on it, fresh install of all latest drivers from asus website, boom...still a crash. That took the OCZ out of it. I moved the OCZ from the marvel controller to one of the 3gig ones, still crashes. (at one time I thought maybe something was screwy with marvell cause on the new install on the intel 510, the BSOD was with something "marvel" while it was running on that controller.

This weekend I did MORE research after I got this really weird error where explorer.exe seemed to have crashed (I'm guessing) as I got this "Failure to display security and shutdown options" when trying to do control/alt/del to get task manager up after all taskbars/menus disappeared. I had to power off to reboot. Someone on some thread said something about power, so I changed out the power supply this weekend to a brand new coolmax 700. It was running ok yesterday, than bam...bsod last night on ntfs.sys, then bam..another bsod this morning.

I'm ready to throw it out the f'ing window. I'm not sure what else to do with it. I do have a western digital 3tb external drive on it.

The only thing I haven't changed out really is the RAM and CPU..and of course, the board itself.

Could it be possible that the auto OC has the board tuned bad to where this is causing the BSODs? I'm totally frustrated and at my wits end. I hate to send the board back for a RMA as then my system will be down for 2 weeks.

I see this thread is almost 400 posts long, so no, I didn't scroll through the entire thing. If anyone has any input or advice about what you think of my issue, I'd appreciate it.

From what I can tell, you all have this motherboard and don't have this issue, so the board is obviously a good, high quality board. So at least that comforts me in getting a replacement. I look forward to your thoughts.

This is the beauty I get most of the time now and that I got this morning. This occured as I was muxing some video that encoded over night. Didn't crash while encoding, which is most cpu intensive.










James


----------



## Arimis5226

I don't believe you can flash a prior BIOS version using EZFlash. There may be a way to do it using bupdater, but I'm not sure that would be something you'd want to take on. I recommend contacting Asus directly and asking them about all of this.


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*











James



I would start a new thread for this problem. I have a feeling that this problem is/would take quite a while to straighten out. Right off the cuff, I'd guess there is some sort of driver conflict going on. Can you boot in safe mode without crashes? Have you tried a fresh windows install (no backups)? What does your event log for windows tell you? Are you doing anything in particular when it crashes? Do you have any cards in ANY of the PCIE slots? Maybe this will bring some new light to the problem.


----------



## lowirve

Thanks. You've helped a lot.


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arimis5226*


I would start a new thread for this problem. I have a feeling that this problem is/would take quite a while to straighten out. Right off the cuff, I'd guess there is some sort of driver conflict going on. Can you boot in safe mode without crashes? Have you tried a fresh windows install (no backups)? What does your event log for windows tell you? Are you doing anything in particular when it crashes? Do you have any cards in ANY of the PCIE slots? Maybe this will bring some new light to the problem.


Sure, I can boot into regular mode and run for hours..sometimes a few days before it crashes, so going into safe mode would be a breeze. I did the fresh install, on a fresh Intel SSD as mentioned in the post. I do have one card, a PCTV capture card that I use. That's it. But I've used this card in older system for years and never had an issue.

Being that capture cards are cheap, if any of you have one you are using with zero problems on this board, let me know. I'll go buy it. lol

When it happens is random. Sometimes when I'm just browsing the web. Somestimes when its sitting idle overnight while I'm in bed. Sometimes during intensive tasks just as encoding. Most of the time during these intensive tasks, it doesn't crash.

Nothing in the event logs, almost as if it didn't crash. (application and system under windows logs)

I'm tempted to just waste more money and buy a different motherboard and ditch this asus to be honest.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


Sure, I can boot into regular mode and run for hours..sometimes a few days before it crashes, so going into safe mode would be a breeze. I did the fresh install, on a fresh Intel SSD as mentioned in the post. I do have one card, a PCTV capture card that I use. That's it. But I've used this card in older system for years and never had an issue.

Being that capture cards are cheap, if any of you have one you are using with zero problems on this board, let me know. I'll go buy it. lol

When it happens is random. Sometimes when I'm just browsing the web. Somestimes when its sitting idle overnight while I'm in bed. Sometimes during intensive tasks just as encoding. Most of the time during these intensive tasks, it doesn't crash.

Nothing in the event logs, almost as if it didn't crash. (application and system under windows logs)

I'm tempted to just waste more money and buy a different motherboard and ditch this asus to be honest.


Are you using Offset Vcore? If so, try and disable C3/C6 states in bios. If these are Enabled, or for some reason at Auto, but enabled, and you're using Offset Vcore you will often get random BSOD's when overclocking..


----------



## turrican9

*james_k_p*

Instead of using Auto overclocking, try this template, originally posted by *TwoCables*, and added in the second post of this club by me. I have changed a few settings from the original template for you to try.

*Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 45
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: + (Try - if you're stable at current Vcore)
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.010V
 DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Disabled
CPU C6 Report: Disabled*


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Are you using Offset Vcore? If so, try and disable C3/C6 states in bios. If these are Enabled, or for some reason at Auto, but enabled, and you're using Offset Vcore you will often get random BSOD's when overclocking..


I don't even know what Offset Vcore is to be honest.

Is this an option in the bios? Can you explain and I'll see what it's set for, then make the bios changes you recommended.

Also, say I just want to totally turn off Overclocking, how do I do this?

Edit: Thanks so much for the template. That's all in the bios right? I'll make all those changes tonight when I get home from work.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


I don't even know what Offset Vcore is to be honest.

Is this an option in the bios? Can you explain and I'll see what it's set for, then make the bios changes you recommended.

Also, say I just want to totally turn off Overclocking, how do I do this?


Please make a printout of my last post, then enter bios and change settings to match that template.


----------



## turrican9

*james_k_p
*

Oh, and do not forget to check for stability using Prime95 Blend. Please visit *munaim1's* Sandy stable Club for instructions. *[] The Sandy STABLE Club []*


----------



## alw71

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arimis5226*


Connect the DVD drive to a sata 3 port using a 3gb cable (I'm assuming the black one, but it doesn't really matter). The DVD drive should plug into one of the light blue sata ports on the MoBo (preferable the top outboard connection, but once again, it really shouldn't matter). The connectors are numbered (you can read the numbers on the board), which will make it easier to ID what is what when you get to your bios.

You can connect the hard drive to the grey mobo connection, using the 6gb or 3gb cable. It doesn't really matter, as I don't think anything you have runs at Sata 6 (6gb).

As a breakdown, the dark blue connectors are for Sata 6 marvell products (I wouldn't use them unless you know a product supports them, but I don't know of anyone having any real issues using them anyways), the grey connectors are standard intel Sata 6, and then all the light blue connectors are Sata 3. Hope this helps!

Edit: It's okay to use a 3gb device on a 6gb port or cable, it's just not going to help the device go any faster. If you ever end up with a Sata 6 device, you're going to want to be sure you use the right port/cable in order to get that 6gb transfer rate. If you use a 3gb port for a 6gb device, the device can only go as fast as the port will allow.


Yes it did help me understand a little more. I just didn't want to stick it in the wrong port and blow my new machine up.
I got it working as I waited for a reply as I pulled all the cables out and started again including reseating the cpu and my H100, it then worked .
I don't know what was the matter with it but i put the drives in the exact same ports as I had in the first place.
Everything is running ok so far and I've heard that you should't change the bios if it's working ok so maybe in the future when I've wised up on overclocking and the use of the bios.
Thanks to anyone who has helped me and rep you !


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alw71*


Yes it did help me understand a little more. I just didn't want to stick it in the wrong port and blow my new machine up.
I got it working as I waited for a reply as I pulled all the cables out and started again including reseating the cpu and my H100, it then worked .
I don't know what was the matter with it but i put the drives in the exact same ports as I had in the first place.
Everything is running ok so far and I've heard that you should't change the bios if it's working ok so maybe in the future when I've wised up on overclocking and the use of the bios.
Thanks to anyone who has helped me and rep you !


I know the feeling. Been there myself. Sometimes reconnecting and/or reseating stuff will fix your problems. It's a good thing to remember if you have to troubleshoot later. Glad you got it sorted.


----------



## alw71

It took me over a day to work out how to put it all together and a half an hour to disasemble and re-asemble







.
Manuals were either non existant or very vague on instructions. ANyway its done now and all there is left to do is cable managment








Thanks for the patience!


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15162746*
> *james_k_p
> *
> 
> Oh, and do not forget to check for stability using Prime95 Blend. Please visit *munaim1's* Sandy stable Club for instructions. *[] The Sandy STABLE Club []*


Ok my friend. I made all the changes to the bios per the template, and am running the test now.

Here is the screenshot:










I'll let it run overnight or whatever you say to do next.

BTW, the C3/C6 states in bios were enabled/auto. I see some posts where people has bsod's and they went away after disabling those. Anyways, just giving more info.

Edit: Here is the test after 4 hours, no problems yet:


----------



## bgfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevens;15032520*
> I've seen some people complaining about high pitch sound coming from their motherboard.
> They fixed it by setting
> the vcore in manual 1.20v
> LLC(load line calibration) : high/ultra high.
> phase control : extreme.
> You can also try to put "cpu spread spectrum" on enabled


Hoping someone can help me with this. Before I begin let me state that you should treat me as a complete idiot because, when it comes to this sort of thing, I am!

I went into my bios to look for these options and didn't know where to look. I found LLC but there wasn't an option for "high" or "ultra high", just auto/enabled/disabled. I saw something that listed CPU core voltage (which is VCORE, right?) but it was just a monitor; there didn't seem to be any way to change it. Couldn't find phase control at all. I was able to enable cpu spread spectrum but that alone didn't seem to solve the problem.

Again, I'm pretty much ******ed when it comes to these things, so if someone could spell it out for me on how to change these settings (or fix it otherwise), my ears (and sanity!) would appreciate it.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15166283*
> Ok my friend. I made all the changes to the bios per the template, and am running the test now.
> 
> Here is the screenshot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let it run overnight or whatever you say to do next.
> 
> BTW, the C3/C6 states in bios were enabled/auto. I see some posts where people has bsod's and they went away after disabling those. Anyways, just giving more info.


If you get through 12 hours + with no errors, then you could try to lower Vcore.

Some of these chips can do 4.5GHz at 1.3v Vcore or even lower. Others need all the way up to 1.4v Vcore at load for 4.5GHz. Each chip is different. That's why I tried to give you a starting point somewhere in-between. Rest is up to you.


----------



## grunion

New unknown device showed up recently port_#0007 hub_#0004

How to fix?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;15167027*
> New unknown device showed up recently port_#0007 hub_#0004
> 
> How to fix?


According to this, it seems it has something to do with the Bluetooth drivers.
Quote:


> _Hey Bradford, I have been having the same problem for the last two days, but I just fixed it by installing the bluetooth drivers from the motherboard's CD.
> 
> The weird thing is that, as far as I remember, when I installed Windows 7 it recognized the bluetooth device. The only unrecognized device I had was the "PCI Simple Communications Controller" linked by staram5 above. However, when I decided to fix the "PCI Simple Communications Controller", I saw a new unrecognized device, the bluetooth. I don't know how it could possibly get screwed up if Windows had recognized it in the first place..._


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15167057*
> According to this, it seems it has something to do with the Bluetooth drivers.


Hmm it's not even enabled.


----------



## richardt

I have a question regarding VCORE and CVID. My CVID is currently running at 1.3711 and my vcore under Prime95 is 1.29 at 44 x 100 with llc on high,ppl and spread spectrum disabled, c1e enabled, vcore offset is -0.03. It crashed at -0.045 2 hours in, so, I changed it down and trying to get on the Sandy Stable Club.

Is the goal to bring vcore and CVID down? Is there any settings that affect CVID? I'm guessing if my computer failed on 44 x 100 with -.045 with cvid at 1.3661, I will never get cvid and vcore lower than that and have a stable computer on 100 x 44? How do you get vcore and cvid down and increase stability even if your cpu wants more voltage?

Also, I'm kind of confused between CVID and vcore. CVID would be the maximum voltage the cpu would get and vcore would be the one you see in cpuid under 100% load? I remember running prime95 and vcore was around 1.27 but when I played bf3 in window mode it will jump up to 1.31v under load, so, is the 1.27 meaning steady vcore and the 1.31v is some type of uncontrolled boost of voltage? Wouldn't it be 1.27 under 100% load regardless if I was playing a game or not?


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15166931*
> If you get through 12 hours + with no errors, then you could try to lower Vcore.
> 
> Some of these chips can do 4.5GHz at 1.3v Vcore or even lower. Others need all the way up to 1.4v Vcore at load for 4.5GHz. Each chip is different. That's why I tried to give you a starting point somewhere in-between. Rest is up to you.


Ok, I'll let it run through the night till morning which will be right around 14 hours.

But what exactly does this mean? I mean I'm guessing that my machine is "stable". And if it doesn't BSOD while doing this...but then starts it's normal crashing again while not under load, then what?

Do you think it could have been the fact that the c3 and c6 was enabled? And that is possibly won't bsod anymore?

What setting in the profile template you gave me exactly controls the vcore? I'm not sure how to lower it, or raise it for that matter.


----------



## TwoCables

Oh my god. There have been 129 posts since my last real post to this thread (here).

I apologize, but I'm just not interested in trying to go through 129 posts right now. If there's anything I missed, then please post a reply to me (click my Quote button on this post).

*james_k_p*:

If you are not using the "Offset" voltage, then it won't matter what your C3 and C6 settings are. I'm not entirely sure about my next statement here, but try disabling CPU Spread Spectrum. It seems to me like many people who have the Z68 chipset need to disable it for one reason or another.


----------



## james_k_p

Yes, it was set for offset before I made the template change, and still is per the template. I have now disabled the c's. Maybe this was my issue. I hope it was and is now fixed. If it crashes during the stress test or at any point again, I'll disable the CPU spectrum option.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15169869*
> Yes, it was set for offset before I made the template change, and still is per the template. I have now disabled the c's. Maybe this was my issue. I hope it was and is now fixed. If it crashes during the stress test or at any point again, I'll disable the CPU spectrum option.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


So, are you saying that you are currently using an Offset voltage?

What settings did you have for both CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report? Were they set to "Enabled" or "Auto"? Disabling them should guarantee that you will no longer get any BSODs or lock-ups while idling because the idle voltage is slightly higher.


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15169908*
> So, are you saying that you are currently using an Offset voltage?
> 
> What settings did you have for both CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report? Were they set to "Enabled" or "Auto"? Disabling them should guarantee that you will no longer get any BSODs or lock-ups while idling because the idle voltage is slightly higher.


I guess. I'm looking at this option in the bios:

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: + (Try - if you're stable at current Vcore)
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.010V
DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Thus is what I set per turrican, so does the "CPU voltage" option set to offset answer your question? It was that before, I guess the auto OC stuff set that as I've done nothing manually.

Before I set them to disabled, c3 was enabled, c6 was set to auto.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## james_k_p

Another question, is it considered idling when simply browsing the web?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


I guess. I'm looking at this option in the bios:

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: + (Try - if you're stable at current Vcore)
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.010V
DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Thus is what I set per turrican, so does the "CPU voltage" option set to offset answer your question?


I want you to be able to answer this for yourself so that you aren't so dependent on others:

Here's how you can tell:

"CPU Voltage: *Offset* Mode"
"*Offset* Mode Sign"
"CPU *Offset* Voltage"

I'm not trying to be hard or anything, but it's just that if someone asks you again, they might expect you to know based on what your settings are in your UEFI. So, this is how you can tell.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


It was that before, I guess the auto OC stuff set that as I've done nothing manually.


Wait, whoa, whoa, whoa. You've done nothing manually? What "auto OC stuff" are you talking about?

So then how do you know what any of your settings are right now?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


Before I set them to disabled, c3 was enabled, c6 was set to auto.


Having C3 set to Enabled was the culprit. You can set them both to Auto without any issues. This means that neither of them can be set to Enabled.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


Another question, is it considered idling when simply browsing the web?


No, but BSODs will still occur at such a low CPU usage if either C3 or C6 are set to Enabled.


----------



## james_k_p

Well I've set it manually now. On the previous page of this thread, the user turrican posted a "template" of what he wanted me to change. So I did per his instruction.

Before this, I never dared changing anything. The "OC stuff" is the ASus OC software that does the auto tuning. That is what set anything that was.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


Well I've set it manually now. On the previous page of this thread, the user turrican posted a "template" of what he wanted me to change. So I did per his instruction.

Before this, I never dared changing anything. The "OC stuff" is the ASus OC software that does the auto tuning. That is what set anything that was.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Oh ok.

The thing he is calling a "template" is actually taken from a Microsoft Word document I created in order to be able to easily share my settings with others in a clean-looking format (in the off chance that they might also work for them). At the time, I didn't have a USB flash drive so I couldn't take screenshots of my BIOS. After posting my settings a few times, turrican9 asked me if he could add it to Post #2 of this thread (which is his thread).

So I don't consider it to be a template.







Although, I guess it's not a bad starting point in order to get the ball rolling.


----------



## james_k_p

Sweet man, I appreciate you help. I'm actually in IT, I just never mess with OCing, and therefore I'm out of the loop on terminology that you guys use here.

It's frustrating that the auto OC tuning in the bios, or the asus software can configure your system in a way that causes bsod's.

I hope I never see another bsod. Knowing my luck, I'm sure it's not over lol. The stress test is still going into it's 7th hour now.

If I have no crash during this test, can I just leave it be or do I need to make some further adjustments to voltage or anything else. I'm not looking to make it faster or anything, I just want the bsod's to stop. I was about to RMA the board.

Thanks again, 
Jimbo

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


Sweet man, I appreciate you help. I'm actually in IT, I just never mess with OCing, and therefore I'm out of the loop on terminology that you guys use here.

It's frustrating that the auto OC tuning in the bios, or the asus software can configure your system in a way that causes bsod's.

I hope I never see another bsod. Knowing my luck, I'm sure it's not over lol. The stress test is still going into it's 7th hour now.

If I have no crash during this test, can I just leave it be or do I need to make some further adjustments to voltage or anything else. I'm not looking to make it faster or anything, I just want the bsod's to stop. I was about to RMA the board.

Thanks again, 
Jimbo

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Generally, there's nothing wrong with leaving everything the way it is if performing the recommended stress tests proves that it's stable. However, it's entirely up to you.

For example: everyone likes to overclock differently. Some guys like to gradually keep increasing the overclock while other guys like to jump straight to their goal and then see what happens. So the answer to "can I just leave it be" is different for everyone: it depends on what you want to do. However, it can also depend on your settings because what if your voltage is higher than it needs to be? Or what if you have some other setting set that doesn't really have to be set?

When I overclocked my 2500K for the first time, I jumped straight to 4.7 GHz using a manual voltage. Then I posted my settings and someone showed me the joy of using an Offset voltage. Soon after that, I found myself going for 4.8 GHz and then I found myself cleaning up my settings by tweaking things here and there to see what I needed as well as what I didn't need.

I am curious though: if you aren't looking to make it faster, than are you only doing this for the fun of it? I mean, that's why I overclock: "because I can!"


----------



## RainMotorsports

I am supposed to be ordering the P8Z68 V Pro in a few hours. I wanted to ask how widespread was the issue with 4 sticks of ram or was it more commonly idiot error or bad selection of memory?

Looking at Corsair Veangence.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


I am supposed to be ordering the P8Z68 V Pro in a few hours. I wanted to ask how widespread was the issue with 4 sticks of ram or was it more commonly idiot error or bad selection of memory?

Looking at Corsair Veangence.


What issue are people having?


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


What issue are people having?


Supposidly not being able to run 4 sticks. Alot of reviews mentioning gskill ripjaws but not which ones. They removed sticks from A2 and B2 and it worked fine. Just concerned since I intend to run all 4 slots. Since they failed to mention the exact ram they used I tend to write off these reviews until further information is given.

As I said I am going for the Corsair Veangence but anandtech's review they used a particular ripjawsx kit in 4 sticks and it worked fine even the newegg review has one P8z68 owner saying it was fine.

A bad board is a bad board it happens. Not too terribly worried if I have to exchange one. But since it was pointed out so close to ordering I thought I might ask some owners.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


Supposidly not being able to run 4 sticks. Alot of reviews mentioning gskill ripjaws but not which ones. They removed sticks from A2 and B2 and it worked fine. Just concerned since I intend to run all 4 slots. Since they failed to mention the exact ram they used I tend to write off these reviews until further information is given.

As I said I am going for the Corsair Veangence but anandtech's review they used a particular ripjawsx kit in 4 sticks and it worked fine even the newegg review has one P8z68 owner saying it was fine.

A bad board is a bad board it happens. Not too terribly worried if I have to exchange one. But since it was pointed out so close to ordering I thought I might ask some owners.


Well I haven't had an issue with 4sticks of ram although they are rated 1.65V and SB RAM voltages should be 1.5V +-10% and I'm a little bit concerned about burning IMC but other than that all is working


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Generally, there's nothing wrong with leaving everything the way it is if performing the recommended stress tests proves that it's stable. However, it's entirely up to you.

For example: everyone likes to overclock differently. Some guys like to gradually keep increasing the overclock while other guys like to jump straight to their goal and then see what happens. So the answer to "can I just leave it be" is different for everyone: it depends on what you want to do. However, it can also depend on your settings because what if your voltage is higher than it needs to be? Or what if you have some other setting set that doesn't really have to be set?

When I overclocked my 2500K for the first time, I jumped straight to 4.7 GHz using a manual voltage. Then I posted my settings and someone showed me the joy of using an Offset voltage. Soon after that, I found myself going for 4.8 GHz and then I found myself cleaning up my settings by tweaking things here and there to see what I needed as well as what I didn't need.

I am curious though: if you aren't looking to make it faster, than are you only doing this for the fun of it? I mean, that's why I overclock: "because I can!"










I am doing this because I wanted the best chip, which is overclockable. I do alot of video recording/encoding and I want a modest OC. It doesn't need to be on the edge, as I prefer stability. Cutting down encoding time helps.

Also I elected not to go with some EE cpu as this rig runs 24/7 and the sandy bridge are better on power and heat conservation.

As it stood before this, I'd almost want to take all OC off to try and eliminate the bsod. Hopefully we nipped it though.

Here is the test after 14 hours which I just stopped it:










So unless you guys have a recommendation to change something, I'll leave it be and see how it responds from this point forward.

In short, because I have a 2600K, I want SOME OC. But stability and elimination of bsod are more important. I'll report back in a few days if no bsod, or on the next one.


----------



## Chewy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


I am doing this because I wanted the best chip, which is overclockable. I do alot of video recording/encoding and I want a modest OC. It doesn't need to be on the edge, as I prefer stability. Cutting down encoding time helps.

Also I elected not to go with some EE cpu as this rig runs 24/7 and the sandy bridge are better on power and heat conservation.

As it stood before this, I'd almost want to take all OC off to try and eliminate the bsod. Hopefully we nipped it though.

Here is the test after 14 hours which I just stopped it:










So unless you guys have a recommendation to change something, I'll leave it be and see how it responds from this point forward.

In short, because I have a 2600K, I want SOME OC. But stability and elimination of bsod are more important. I'll report back in a few days if no bsod, or on the next one.


Nice overclock, although i am suprised at your temps with a nh-d14


----------



## james_k_p

So I guess that my temps are bad and I should back it down some?


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


Well I haven't had an issue with 4sticks of ram although they are rated 1.65V and SB RAM voltages should be 1.5V +-10% and I'm a little bit concerned about burning IMC but other than that all is working


Alright well hopefully I will have success. Hopefully I will be able to find wifi near work and get this ordered the second I pick up my paycheck!


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


Alright well hopefully I will have success. Hopefully I will be able to find wifi near work and get this ordered the second I pick up my paycheck!


I'm running 4 sticks of corsair vengeance (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820233144)
on a p8z68-v pro and I don't have any problems whatsoever (running at xmp settings).


----------



## turrican9

*james_k_p*

Now try lowering Vcore at 4.5GHz. Try Offset = - (Minus) 0.040. Run Prime95 again.

Edit:

*Juuhuuu!! I got post number 4000!!*


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*james_k_p*

Now try lowering Vcore at 4.5GHz. Try Offset = - (Minus) 0.040. Run Prime95 again.


And what will this accomplish? Get it running same speed with lower voltage to get cooler temps? Just curious what we're trying to do.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


And what will this accomplish? Get it running same speed with lower voltage to get cooler temps? Just curious what we're trying to do.


You're trying to find lowest possible Vcore (or close to that) for your current speed. Yes, it will give you lower temps, and also give an indication of how good of an overclocker your CPU is. If you can get 4.5GHz at closer to 1.3v Vcore, there is a good chance it will overclock to the 4.8GHz range at around 1.4v Vcore..


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


You're trying to find lowest possible Vcore (or close to that) for your current speed. Yes, it will give you lower temps, and also give an indication of how good of an overclocker your CPU is. If you can get 4.5GHz at closer to 1.3v Vcore, there is a good chance it will overclock to the 4.8GHz range at around 1.4v Vcore..


Thanks for explaining







. I'll make those changes tonight when I get home and let it run again overnight. I'm guessing if it can't handle the lower vcore, it will bsod?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


Thanks for explaining







. I'll make those changes tonight when I get home and let it run again overnight.


Before you do a overnight run, try running Blend Custom. Type in 1792KB and 1792KB. Let it run for at least 15 minutes. Then you have a somewhat indication that your overclock is reasonable stable.

Then you start the normal Blend test.

Reason? To save alot of time. I've found that the 1344KB and 1792KB FFT's are the most demanding FFT's, most likely to fail with Sandy. However, these FFT's are hours out in the test. That is why it is smart to run them before the regular Blend preset. 1792FFT is the most demanding of the two.

Edit: If it crashes, then up Vcore, try - 0.030 or - 0.020. If it goes through, you could try to lower it even more: - 0.060 or something. You catch my drift?


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Before you do a overnight run, try running Blend Custom. Type in 1792KB and 1792KB. Let it run for at least 15 minutes. Then you have a somewhat indication that your overclock is reasonable stable.

Then you start the normal Blend test.

Reason? To save alot of time. I've found that the 1344KB and 1792KB FFT's are the most demanding FFT's, most likely to fail with Sandy. However, these FFT's are hours out in the test. That is why it is smart to run them before the regular Blend preset. 1792FFT is the most demanding of the two.

Edit: If it crashes, then up Vcore, try - 0.030 or - 0.020. If it goes through, you could try to lower it even more: - 0.060 or something. You catch my drift?


Yep, I gotcha. I'll set the custom blend options both to 1792kb and do some 15 minute runs. Nice to learn from you guys. Good stuff.


----------



## samuel002

I followed Turrican9 "template" and my full load temp was 75,77,83,74


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15172773*
> So I guess that my temps are bad and I should back it down some?


They're not bad or dangerous, but it's just that he would expect lower temps with that beast of an air cooler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15175184*
> I followed Turrican9 "template" and my full load temp was 75,77,83,74


What core voltage are you getting under full load? Go by CPU-Z.


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15177480*
> They're not bad or dangerous, but it's just that he would expect lower temps with that beast of an air cooler


Yeah, that thing is a MONSTER. In all honesty, I probably need to take the fans off and clean it up a little. I have many pets and their hair gets up in there often requiring a little cleaning.


----------



## samuel002

about 1.4-1.43v when i had prime95 running.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15177749*
> about 1.4-1.43v when i had prime95 running.


Is this for 4.8 GHz, or did he give you different settings to use?


----------



## samuel002

no it was 4.5ghz the same settings he gave to James K p


----------



## TwoCables

Whoa. Then 1.4V to 1.43V is way too much for 4.5 GHz. I am using 1.392V to 1.400V for 4.8 GHz.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Hey guys, I was wondering I have a P8Z68-V motherboard and how do you exactly change the voltage? I tried changing the DRAM voltage to 1.6 but it didn't do anything at all, and under the DRAM voltages there's separate DRAM chAA chBB type and you can change the voltage on that.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*


Hey guys, I was wondering I have a P8Z68-V motherboard and how do you exactly change the voltage? I tried changing the DRAM voltage to 1.6 but it didn't do anything at all, and under the DRAM voltages there's separate DRAM chAA chBB type and you can change the voltage on that.


When you changed it to 1.6V, did you you type 1.6 and then press Enter afterward? Pressing Enter is required when typing values in manually.









So, use the "DRAM Voltage" field again.


----------



## james_k_p

Hey Guys, I'm back.

I got home to this beauty. Funny how it can run a stress test all night, but let it just sit all day with not much going on and bam.










Looks like disabling c3 and c6 didn't change my lovely random bsods. Instead of doing the tweaks you recommended, anything else I can do?

My gut is still telling me something is wrong with this board or something. Let me know what you think.

Would it be a good idea to just turn off all OCing? If so how do you do it? While waiting for someone to respond, I updated it the bios to 0707 which I would think sets it back to default. But I log in, put on prime95 and it still shows that it's running at 4.4ghz.

What if I just want it to run at it's stock 3.6?


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


When you changed it to 1.6V, did you you type 1.6 and then press Enter afterward? Pressing Enter is required when typing values in manually.









So, use the "DRAM Voltage" field again.


Yes, i did.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sniperslayer

hey guys, just wondering if anyone could inform me on the "TPU" switch?

automatic optimization of clock speeds?

i have the P8 Z68-VPRO running an i7 2600k, so if i switch this switch "on" will i have higher clock speeds automatically or how does this work


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sniperslayer*


hey guys, just wondering if anyone could inform me on the "TPU" switch?

automatic optimization of clock speeds?

i have the P8 Z68-VPRO running an i7 2600k, so if i switch this switch "on" will i have higher clock speeds automatically or how does this work


I believe so. Thanks for pointing this out. I actually had this "on" and it autoclocked it to 4.45ish.

So this answered my own question a few posts ago about how to put it back to stock speed so I can see if my bsod goes away.

I wonder if this also overrode the manual OC you guys had me to. Thoughts? Needless to say, I just shutdown and switched it off.


----------



## chillidog

hi all
haven't been on for a while been messing around and i think i have cracked it
prime,intellburn tests all passed over 14 hrs.temps max at 74

settings:
set on =manual
bclkfreg=100
tubo ratio=by all cores 
ratio= 4.6
internall pill=enabled
ddr3 freq=ddr 1600
epu power=disabled

cpu management
cpu ratio=auto
turbo mode =enabled
speedstep=enabled

digi +vrm

load line=extreme
vrm freq=auto
duty control=extreme
phase control=extreme
cpu current capability= 100%
cpu voltage=manual mode
cpu manual voltage= i set at 1.350
d ram=1.6
vccsa=1
vccsa voltage=1.1
vcc1o voltage=1.9
cpu spread=disabled

cpu configuration

cpu ratio =auto
intel thermal=disabled
active processor core=all
limited cpuid=disabled
executive disable bit=enabled
intell virt tech=disabled
turbo mode=enabled
enchanced intel speedstep=enabled
cpu cie=disabled
cpu c3 report=disabled
cpu c6 report=disabled

this are the settings i have tried so far all seem to work ok. no cold bsod's what so ever and no system retores message's etc.(considering i was getting bsod's every day from cold boot ups)
cpu-z core voltage at max is 1.35,realtemp at max was 74 on core 3 others cores where 64,68,69.

i prob could go 4.7 or 4.8? with these settings but am going to let it run for a few more days on 4.6.

not sure what others veiws are on these settings but all welcome to say as am still learning

when i get time i do screen prints of setting's


----------



## owcraftsman

Here is a spread sheet with settings that work on my V-Pro feel free to add your settings and I hope they help any who'd like to try them. My current 2600k chip is not a 5.0 chip and needs a higher vcore than some others but heat is tempered with my modded H70 w/ dual AP-15s so be careful not to over do it. If your proc exceeds 95c for any duration the CPU will throttle back it's clock which is a self protect feature.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApAbOXdu3nL3dEJ6U2hQd3RfNVRRMmxkbVFHSG5WdGc&hl=en_US


----------



## Arimis5226

Did the P8Z68-V Pro BIOS 0706 fix the sleep issue with PLL OV enabled for anybody?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee;15181424*
> Yes, i did.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Then what happened when you tried to set "DRAM Voltage" to 1.6V?

I know you said _"it didn't do anything at all"_, but what does that mean?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniperslayer;15183657*
> hey guys, just wondering if anyone could inform me on the "TPU" switch?
> 
> automatic optimization of clock speeds?
> 
> i have the P8 Z68-VPRO running an i7 2600k, so if i switch this switch "on" will i have higher clock speeds automatically or how does this work


The TPU switch is for people who want to have their system overclocked a little bit without having to do anything but flip a switch. So, it's for people who are all on their own (that is, people who are not a member of any overclocking community like Overclock.net).

Therefore, it's generally recommended to leave the TPU function turned off and overclock manually in the UEFI. After all, you're on Overclock.net

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15183777*
> I believe so. Thanks for pointing this out. I actually had this "on" and it autoclocked it to 4.45ish.
> 
> So this answered my own question a few posts ago about how to put it back to stock speed so I can see if my bsod goes away.
> 
> I wonder if this also overrode the manual OC you guys had me to. Thoughts? Needless to say, I just shutdown and switched it off.


You're right. When overclocking manually, the TPU function must be turned off as it will interfere.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15185511*
> hi all
> haven't been on for a while been messing around and i think i have cracked it
> prime,intellburn tests all passed over 14 hrs.temps max at 74
> 
> settings:
> set on =manual
> bclkfreg=100
> tubo ratio=by all cores
> ratio= 4.6
> internall pill=enabled


Help me remember: did we find that you absolutely require Internal PLL Overvoltage to be enabled for this 4.6 GHz overclock? I mean, having it enabled for just 4.6 GHz is usually unnecessary. I do recommend disabling it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15185511*
> ddr3 freq=ddr 1600
> epu power=disabled
> 
> cpu management
> cpu ratio=auto
> turbo mode =enabled
> speedstep=enabled
> 
> digi +vrm
> 
> load line=extreme


Please try a Load-Line Calibration setting of Ultra High. The 'Extreme' setting causes vRise!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15185511*
> vrm freq=auto
> duty control=extreme
> phase control=extreme
> cpu current capability= 100%
> cpu voltage=manual mode
> cpu manual voltage= i set at 1.350


If you use an Offset voltage, then it will adjust dynamically based on the CPU load which is *very* good for the longevity of the CPU. Do you want to try an Offset voltage? I can make it easy to achieve this same core voltage under load using an Offset voltage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15185511*
> d ram=1.6
> vccsa=1
> vccsa voltage=1.1
> vcc1o voltage=1.9


1.9V for VCCIO? (by the way, it's VCCIO, not VCC*1*O)

Is it really 1.9V? I know it's not, but I am just asking what setting you're using.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15185511*
> cpu spread=disabled
> 
> cpu configuration
> 
> cpu ratio =auto
> intel thermal=disabled


This should be enabled for the safety of the CPU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15185511*
> active processor core=all
> limited cpuid=disabled
> executive disable bit=enabled
> intell virt tech=disabled
> turbo mode=enabled
> enchanced intel speedstep=enabled
> cpu cie=disabled


CPU C1E should be enabled. The only time it makes sense to disable it is when adjusting the BCLK.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15185511*
> cpu c3 report=disabled
> cpu c6 report=disabled


I am happy to see that you have these disabled.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15185511*
> this are the settings i have tried so far all seem to work ok. no cold bsod's what so ever and no system retores message's etc.(considering i was getting bsod's every day from cold boot ups)
> cpu-z core voltage at max is 1.35,realtemp at max was 74 on core 3 others cores where 64,68,69.
> 
> i prob could go 4.7 or 4.8? with these settings but am going to let it run for a few more days on 4.6.
> 
> not sure what others veiws are on these settings but all welcome to say as am still learning
> 
> when i get time i do screen prints of setting's


Would it be better if I sent you a private message each time I reply to one of your posts?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arimis5226;15186738*
> Did the P8Z68-V Pro BIOS 0706 fix the sleep issue with PLL OV enabled for anybody?


Not sure what issue you are referring to but I have no issues resuming from sleep with PLL OV set to auto at 4.6 oc.

see line 6 settings here


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman;15186905*
> Not sure what issue you are referring to but I have no issues resuming from sleep with PLL OV set to auto at 4.6 oc.
> 
> see line 6 settings here


When Internal PLL Overvoltage is enabled, some people are having trouble resuming from Sleep Mode. When it's set to Auto, there's generally no problem.


----------



## Arimis5226

TwoCables, what are the dimensions of your neckbeard? I'm going to have to pick through it some time to see if I can get some good offset voltages going. Future post to follow.


----------



## james_k_p

Yeah, I think I'll let my system roll through the weekend at stock speeds. If it BSODs once, then it's going back. I'll keep you updated.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15187497*
> Yeah, I think I'll let my system roll through the weekend at stock speeds. If it BSODs once, then it's going back. I'll keep you updated.


I see you're using 16GB RAM. Maybe you need to up VCCIO? Mine defaults to 1.050 Volts. Try 1.150 or something.. Safe up to 1.200v as far as I know.


----------



## jacksknight

So im going to be going i7 2600k and im looking at this board.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131730

I wont get anything but asus, but i have heard that some new asus boards cant be adjusted in the bios. My buddy has one that you can only change the voltages through software..

Anything like that i should know about? thanks!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacksknight;15187583*
> So im going to be going i7 2600k and im looking at this board.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131730
> 
> I wont get anything but asus, but i have heard that some new asus boards cant be adjusted in the bios. My buddy has one that you can only change the voltages through software..
> 
> Anything like that i should know about? thanks!


Where did you get that information from?


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacksknight;15187583*
> So im going to be going i7 2600k and im looking at this board.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131730
> 
> I wont get anything but asus, but i have heard that some new asus boards cant be adjusted in the bios. My buddy has one that you can only change the voltages through software..
> 
> Anything like that i should know about? thanks!


I has that board! More OC options than anyone would ever really need. Make sure to update the BIOS when you get it (i'd do each update incrementally). You can find plenty of awesome help on this thread. The only other Asus boards I would go with over this would be the RoG boards, but they weren't in my price range at the time. Are you planning on SLI/Xfire?


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15187532*
> I see you're using 16GB RAM. Maybe you need to up VCCIO? Mine defaults to 1.050 Volts. Try 1.150 or something.. Safe up to 1.200v as far as I know.


I mean come on ASUS, shouldn't this thing just run at stock without crashing no matter what? I mean I hear you Turrican, but even if this would help, does ASUS expect every customer to have to perform tweaking for weeks to get it working right?


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15187712*
> I mean come on ASUS, shouldn't this thing just run at stock without crashing no matter what? I mean I hear you Turrican, but even if this would help, does ASUS expect every customer to have to perform tweaking for weeks to get it working right?


Have you gone back to defaults in your BIOS (by pressing F5, save and restart)? This should get you back to square one. If you're still crashing, reset CMOS, and reset BIOS to defaults again. If you're still crashing, there's got to be a hardware problem.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15187712*
> I mean come on ASUS, shouldn't this thing just run at stock without crashing no matter what? I mean I hear you Turrican, but even if this would help, does ASUS expect every customer to have to perform tweaking for weeks to get it working right?


Well, I agree. But are those mem sticks in you're mobo's QVL? (Qualified Vendors List). If so, are they listed as 16GB (4 sticks)?

Was just a suggestion. I find it strange that your system passed 12 hours Blend if RAM was unstable. However, I don't know how it would react if it needed more VCCIO


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15187782*
> Well, I agree. But are those mem sticks in you're mobo's QVL? (Qualified Vendors List). If so, are they listed as 16GB (4 sticks)?
> 
> Was just a suggestion. I find it strange that your system passed 12 hours Blend if RAM was unstable. However, I don't know how it would react if it needed more VCCIO


GRRRR! I was JUST looking at the QVL for his ram model number! Fact is, the exact model number F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL is nowhere in the QVL (unless I overlooked it). Here's a copy of the QVL.


----------



## james_k_p

Yep, those sticks are on the QVL in the manual. Oh I know turrican, I wasn't griping at you. Just at the situation I'm in. Sorry if you took it that way.

I'm totally frustrated.

Arimis, I just updated the bios to 0706 last night and all the settings I had were gone, so i'm guessing it put it back to defaults during that, so I left it. That's when I discovered I still had the TPU on as it was still Overclocking. AFter disabling this, I am now maxing out at the stock 3600 on load.

As I said, I'll let it run for several days and if it BSODs again, the mb is going back.

I'm willing to even buy different RAM if you guys have recommendation, as long as it doesn't have large heatsinks as the ripjaws I have BARELY fit under the giant noctua cooler.


----------



## jacksknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arimis5226;15187656*
> I has that board! More OC options than anyone would ever really need. Make sure to update the BIOS when you get it (i'd do each update incrementally). You can find plenty of awesome help on this thread. The only other Asus boards I would go with over this would be the RoG boards, but they weren't in my price range at the time. Are you planning on SLI/Xfire?


Im not really planning on sli at all, but who knows what i might do down the road.

Appreciate the advice!


----------



## james_k_p

I'm totally weirded out now. I could have SWORE I read the RAM on the QVL before I bought it. I always do my research. I remember doing as you did Arimis and not seeing it online, so I then went back to the manually, spotted it and said ok, just a screw up I guess.

But now that you're pointing it out again, I'm not finding it. I mean what?! Am I going crazy?


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15187847*
> Yep, those sticks are on the QVL in the manual. Oh I know turrican, I wasn't griping at you. Just at the situation I'm in. Sorry if you took it that way.
> 
> I'm totally frustrated.
> 
> Arimis, I just updated the bios to 0706 last night and all the settings I had were gone, so i'm guessing it put it back to defaults during that, so I left it. That's when I discovered I still had the TPU on as it was still Overclocking. AFter disabling this, I am now maxing out at the stock 3600 on load.
> 
> As I said, I'll let it run for several days and if it BSODs again, the mb is going back.
> 
> I'm willing to even buy different RAM if you guys have recommendation, as long as it doesn't have large heatsinks as the ripjaws I have BARELY fit under the giant noctua cooler.


I see F3-12800CL8D-8GBECO in the QVL, but not F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL (which is what you have). It Looks like you have the Ripjaws, but the QVL states ECO series.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231404

I'm not saying your ram isn't supported. You'd have to ask Asus directly. I'm just saying, like Turrican9, this could be a problem.


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arimis5226;15187917*
> I see F3-12800CL8D-8GBECO in the QVL, but not F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL (which is what you have). ILooks like you have the Ripjaws, but the QVL states ECO series.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231404
> 
> I'm not saying your ram isn't supported. You'd have to ask Asus directly. I'm just saying, like Turrican9, this could be a problem.


Well I never like to push anything, and if it isn't on the list, I wouldn't have ordered it. Gosh DArnnit!

I remember some guy somewhere saying he had these and they fit under the noctua cooler that I was ordering, so then I looked on the list, saw them, then ordered. So if they aren't on that list, that DEFINITELY could be the issue.

SOOOO my next question....what RAM are you guys using? LOL
And is it low profile enough to fit under my cooler? I'll order some today as soon as I settle on which ones to get.


----------



## james_k_p

Oh I see what I did now.

On the g.skill website, THEY are saying it's on the QVL:

http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=222

But ASUS isn't, weird.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15187954*
> Well I never like to push anything, and if it isn't on the list, I wouldn't have ordered it. Gosh DArnnit!
> 
> I remember some guy somewhere saying he had these and they fit under the noctua cooler that I was ordering, so then I looked on the list, saw them, then ordered. So if they aren't on that list, that DEFINITELY could be the issue.
> 
> SOOOO my next question....what RAM are you guys using? LOL
> And is it low profile enough to fit under my cooler? I'll order some today as soon as I settle on which ones to get.


You don't know yet if your mem is causing the BSOD. Even if they aren't on the QVL does not mean they will cause trouble.

As I've said, try to increase VCCIO first, since you're using 4 sticks..


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15187954*
> Well I never like to push anything, and if it isn't on the list, I wouldn't have ordered it. Gosh DArnnit!
> 
> I remember some guy somewhere saying he had these and they fit under the noctua cooler that I was ordering, so then I looked on the list, saw them, then ordered. So if they aren't on that list, that DEFINITELY could be the issue.
> 
> SOOOO my next question....what RAM are you guys using? LOL
> And is it low profile enough to fit under my cooler? I'll order some today as soon as I settle on which ones to get.


Yes, actually they have very different voltage/timing xmp settings now that I've looked at the specs. This could be a big issue. You're current ram at xmp is 1.5v @ 9-9-9-24-2N, but the ECO at xmp is 1.35v @ 8-8-8-24.

I use Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 (2 kits) for 16gb of ram, and I don't have any ram issues that I'm aware of. The QVL states support for 1 kit (8gb), so I assumed 2 kits would be fine. Like I said, no issues here so far, although I'm not sure that they wouldn't cause problems fitting with your cooler. I have a CM Hyper 212+, and it was a VERY tight job for me, but I managed. Didn't have to move the fans or anything in my case.

Edit: Once again, I'm not saying that your ram is the problem. I'm guessing that if you contacted Asus, they would tell you to install ram that is on the QVL, or else they cannot gaurantee thier product will work. I don't want to be blamed here if you go out and swap your ram, and the problem persists. I'm just saying it COULD be the problem.

ReEdit: Go poke around here and see what they say about cooler clearance and ram recs for you.
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/807307-heatsink-clearance-cpu-ram-will-my-2.html


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arimis5226;15188023*
> Yes, actually they have very different voltage/timing xmp settings now that I've looked at the specs. This could be a big issue. You're current ram at xmp is 1.5v @ 9-9-9-24-2N, but the ECO at xmp is 1.35v @ 8-8-8-24.
> 
> I use Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 (2 kits) for 16gb of ram, and I don't have any ram issues that I'm aware of. The QVL states support for 1 kit (8gb), so I assumed 2 kits would be fine. Like I said, no issues here so far.
> 
> Edit: Once again, I'm not saying that your ram is the problem. I'm guessing that if you contacted Asus, they would tell you to install ram that is on the QVL, or else they cannot gaurantee thier product will work. I don't want to be blamed here if you go out and swap your ram, and the problem persists. I'm just saying it COULD be the problem.


Nah, I wouldn't be mad. I've already bought some much other crap for this system that another $120 bucks wouldn't matter. I'd just sell the ripjaws on ebay I guess. I'm not sure the Corsairs will fit under my cooler though.

Anyone have these chips and the NH-D14 and can confirm they fit?


----------



## Arimis5226

Now that I'm looking at it, that G.Skill ECO ram looks beast. 1.32v? Wouldn't that be ideal for OCing, seeing as dram voltage is passed through the CPU, which could essentially put less stress on the CPU and keep the temps down?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231404
Thoughts?


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arimis5226;15188162*
> Now that I'm looking at it, that G.Skill ECO ram looks beast. 1.32v? Wouldn't that be ideal for OCing, seeing as dram voltage is passed through the CPU, which could essentially put less stress on the CPU and keep the temps down?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231404
> Thoughts?


I emailed g.Skill support asking them about this and what are their thoughts. I'll report back when I get a response.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Then what happened when you tried to set "DRAM Voltage" to 1.6V?

I know you said _"it didn't do anything at all"_, but what does that mean?


Sorry about that, like, it does not change the voltage to what I applied.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*


Sorry about that, like, it does not change the voltage to what I applied.


What are you using to check? I mean, are you going back into the UEFI to check it, or are you using software?


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


This makes me curious: do you know if either your TPU or EPU switch are in the On position? If so, then they will need to be in the Off position.


It was, but I turned it off last night after the last crash when I attempted to put everything back to stock speeds, which i did.

I heard back from G.Skill. This was their response:

"Dear Customer

The memory is compatible, but it can be difficult mixing two kits in the same computer. First, I would suggest testing each kit to make sure they can work on their own. Enable XMP so they can be configured properly in BIOS. Otherwise you will need to manually input DRAM Frequency, Timings, and Voltage.

If both kits work OK by themselves, put them together by having each kit in their own color slots. Instead of XMP, use manual settings. XMP will only work for a single kit.

Keep me posted on the results and we can work from there.

Technically for the Z68 motherboard, the RipJaws X series should be used. The RipJaws is for the older first generation P55 platforms.

Thank you
GSKILL SUPPORT"

I checked the RAM and they were what they should be. They were all sequential in number. I told them this:

"In the 1st slot, the number is 11230640214184 and 3rd slot (same color slots) is 1123064021483.
The 2nd slot is 1123064021486 and the 4th slot is 1123064021485."

I looked and I don't see this XMP or as he told me in a replay when I asked, "extreme memory profile" anywhere in the bios. Do you guys know where this is, or what it is called (assuming asus names it differently)?

I don't want to take 2 sticks out yet until it crashes again at stock speeds (if it does) That could be tonight, or in a few days.

I'm tempted to just order those X Series Ripjaws though since I know they'd fit. Check'em out:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...666CL9Q-16GBXL

Let me know what you guys think about that XMP option as it should be disabled when using 4 sticks. Thanks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


It was, but I turned it off last night after the last crash when I attempted to put everything back to stock speeds, which i did.


I was asking gtsteviiee. However, to avoid confusion: I had to edit my post and completely change my response because I noticed that he has his 2500K at 5 GHz. So if you go back and look at it and notice that it's very different, then that's why.

Anyway, it wasn't related to your situation at all. That's why I his post is quoted.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


I heard back from G.Skill. This was their response:

"Dear Customer

The memory is compatible, but it can be difficult mixing two kits in the same computer. First, I would suggest testing each kit to make sure they can work on their own. Enable XMP so they can be configured properly in BIOS. Otherwise you will need to manually input DRAM Frequency, Timings, and Voltage.

If both kits work OK by themselves, put them together by having each kit in their own color slots. Instead of XMP, use manual settings. XMP will only work for a single kit.

Keep me posted on the results and we can work from there.

Technically for the Z68 motherboard, the RipJaws X series should be used. The RipJaws is for the older first generation P55 platforms.

Thank you
GSKILL SUPPORT"

I checked the RAM and they were what they should be. They were all sequential in number. I told them this:

"In the 1st slot, the number is 11230640214184 and 3rd slot (same color slots) is 1123064021483.
The 2nd slot is 1123064021486 and the 4th slot is 1123064021485."

I looked and I don't see this XMP or as he told me in a replay when I asked, "extreme memory profile" anywhere in the bios. Do you guys know where this is, or what it is called (assuming asus names it differently)?


It's an option for "Ai Overclock Tuner" in the UEFI.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


I don't want to take 2 sticks out yet until it crashes again at stock speeds (if it does) That could be tonight, or in a few days.

I'm tempted to just order those X Series Ripjaws though since I know they'd fit. Check'em out:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...666CL9Q-16GBXL

Let me know what you guys think about that XMP option as it should be disabled when using 4 sticks. Thanks.


I don't know.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Going back into the UEFI.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*


Going back into the UEFI.


For "Ai Overclock Tuner", what option do you have selected right now? If you currently have "X.M.P." selected, then try Manual.


----------



## gtsteviiee

I have manual selected already.


----------



## james_k_p

Mine is set to auto, not manual nor XMP. It auto still using xmp some?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


Mine is set to auto, not manual nor XMP. It auto still using xmp some?


I don't know. The manual just says "Loads the optimal settings for the system". It sounds to me like "Auto" is not a desirable setting if you want to overclock at all.


----------



## james_k_p

Gotta give it to G.Skill support, they get back promptly.

They responded:

"Dear Customer

With all modules installed, you should input DRR3-1600 for DRAM Frequency.

Then in the timings section, tCL 9 - tRCD 9 - tRP 9 - tRAS 24

DRAM Voltage 1.50V.

Thank you
GSKILL SUPPORT"

So no auto nor xmp.

Now I have a question on this for you guys, will doing this OC it any? I thought it was running at 3.6 stock, but now when I check it on load, it's 3.8.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


Gotta give it to G.Skill support, they get back promptly.

They responded:

"Dear Customer

With all modules installed, you should input DRR3-1600 for DRAM Frequency.

Then in the timings section, tCL 9 - tRCD 9 - tRP 9 - tRAS 24

DRAM Voltage 1.50V.

Thank you
GSKILL SUPPORT"

So no auto nor xmp.

Now I have a question on this for you guys, will doing this OC it any? I thought it was running at 3.6 stock, but now when I check it on load, it's 3.8.


3.8 GHz is the stock turbo frequency for the 2600K. 3.4 GHz is where it starts.

Adjusting your memory will not change the CPU's clock. The only things that affect the CPU's clock are adjustments to the BCLK and the multiplier. If you change the BCLK,then your options in the DRAM Frequency menu change.


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15194782*
> 3Adjusting your memory will not change the CPU's clock. The only things that affect the CPU's clock are adjustments to the BCLK and the multiplier. If you change the BCLK,then your options in the DRAM Frequency menu change.


I don't know exactly what mechanism drives the TurboV EVO autotuning but setting the Dram voltage to it's nominal 1.5V overclocks my i7 2600K to 103*43,
setting the Dram voltage to 1.6V overclocks to 104.6*46. One thing particuliar:

Internal PLL must be enabled. Without, my machine doesn't boot not even at the "optimized settings" 103*43. Ennoying is the 2x reset at bootup.


----------



## stasio

New BIOS for ASUS P8P67 & P8Z68:

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/

Fix list basics are:
1) S3 resume with CPU PLL OV Enabled is patched - should work on most DRAM (cheaper ICs may have issues).
2) Ivy Bridge Support enabled.


----------



## hmar

That Asus ftp server is the sloooooowest I know, a whopping 10KB/sec







on a broadband connection (4GB/sec)


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio;15198246*
> New BIOS for ASUS P8P67 & P8Z68:
> 
> ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/
> 
> Fix list basics are:
> 1) S3 resume with CPU PLL OV Enabled is patched - should work on most DRAM (cheaper ICs may have issues).
> 2) Ivy Bridge Support enabled.


Thanks for the heads up Stasio I'll be giving 902 a try


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;15110334*
> Hey guys,
> 
> I get BSOD 124 while Prime testing (Custom Blend, 6000MB). The only thing I did, was switching off "Internal PLL Overvoltage", to get back the sleep mode capability. Now I can suspend, but the system is unstable. There have not been any worker errors in prime.
> 
> Here are my settings, as they were during my first test which ended with BSOD 124 after about 10-12h. Same settings with PLL Overvoltage enabled ran rock stable for 17h and an additional 12-13h.
> 
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Overvoltage: *Disabled*
> Memory Frequency: 2133
> DRAM Timing Control: CL 9 - 11 - 9 - 28 - 2T
> (same like in X.M.P. except the 2T, which is 1T there)
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
> Long Duration Maintained: 32s
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)*
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.020V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.65V
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: 1,15V
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto
> 
> I am getting Vcores from 1.384V to 1.392V.
> 
> After First BSOD 124 I adjusted "CPU PLL Voltage" to 1,70625V. Prime ran without errors until another BSOD after 14h.
> Then I tried "CPU PLL Voltage" of 1,5V and got the same BSOD after about 5 hours.
> At the moment, my system (at home) runs a test with CPU PLL Voltage back to 1,70625V and increased VCCIO Voltage of 1,15625. Not sure if this will succeed.
> 
> Can anyone give advice, how to get this stable without switching on "Internal PLL Overvoltage" ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;15115846*
> Stable for 15,5h now, hope that VCCIO raise to 1,15625 solved the problem.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;15121470*
> F**K! Again! BSOD 124 after 17,5h of Prime95 Custom Blend 6000MB. Will now raise VCCIO to 1,625 and start another Prime run.


Did not have any luck with all settings I tried. After this odyssey I set the settings I had before, which are similar to the listing in the first quote, except "Internal PLL Overvoltage", which I switched on again. This settings have been stable 17,5h+ and another 12h without Errors or BSODs.
Testing those "stabled" settings again resulted in a BSOD 124 after only 3-4 hours. Another test BSODed after about 12h.

Why is this no more stable ?







I really don't know and would appreciate every help anyone can give.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;15199149*
> Did not have any luck with all settings I tried. After this odyssey I set the settings I had before, which are similar to the listing in the first quote, except "Internal PLL Overvoltage", which I switched on again. This settings have been stable 17,5h+ and another 12h without Errors or BSODs.
> Testing those "stabled" settings again resulted in a BSOD 124 after only 3-4 hours. Another test BSODed after about 12h.
> 
> Why is this no more stable ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't know and would appreciate every help anyone can give.


Stop 124 is likely vcore or VTT +/- based on your template I would bump your offset to +0.040v and test again. Also it has been my experience enabling Internal PLL prove more stable when OCing the BLCK but may have benefits at higher multi I'd leave it disabled and consider using it if you fail again. It may also be a good idea to try running your memory at say 1600 same timings for the moment and see if that helps if you have success you may well be able to tighten the timings a bit. GL


----------



## RainMotorsports

Myne has arrived.

Curious what was the source for the club image? I am taking the same shot as we speak using my 35mm 1.8 to get the depth of field effect.


----------



## TFL Replica

Just downloaded BIOS 2001 for my board. It downloaded awfully slow at just 12KB/s.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar;15197966*
> I don't know exactly what mechanism drives the TurboV EVO autotuning but setting the Dram voltage to it's nominal 1.5V overclocks my i7 2600K to 103*43,
> setting the Dram voltage to 1.6V overclocks to 104.6*46. One thing particuliar:
> 
> Internal PLL must be enabled. Without, my machine doesn't boot not even at the "optimized settings" 103*43. Ennoying is the 2x reset at bootup.


All of this is because you're using ASUS Suite II's automatic overclocking feature. Generally, it's better to do it manually in the UEFI starting with a BCLK of 100.0 MHz and never changing it.









To be honest, I recommend uninstalling Ai Suite II unless you absolutely need it for something else.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;15110334*
> Hey guys,
> 
> I get BSOD 124 while Prime testing (Custom Blend, 6000MB). The only thing I did, was switching off "Internal PLL Overvoltage", to get back the sleep mode capability. Now I can suspend, but the system is unstable. There have not been any worker errors in prime.
> 
> Here are my settings, as they were during my first test which ended with BSOD 124 after about 10-12h. Same settings with PLL Overvoltage enabled ran rock stable for 17h and an additional 12-13h.
> 
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Overvoltage: *Disabled*
> Memory Frequency: 2133
> DRAM Timing Control: CL 9 - 11 - 9 - 28 - 2T
> (same like in X.M.P. except the 2T, which is 1T there)
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: 140 Watt
> Long Duration Maintained: 32s
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)*
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.020V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.65V
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: 1,15V
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto
> 
> I am getting Vcores from 1.384V to 1.392V.
> 
> After First BSOD 124 I adjusted "CPU PLL Voltage" to 1,70625V. Prime ran without errors until another BSOD after 14h.
> Then I tried "CPU PLL Voltage" of 1,5V and got the same BSOD after about 5 hours.
> At the moment, my system (at home) runs a test with CPU PLL Voltage back to 1,70625V and increased VCCIO Voltage of 1,15625. Not sure if this will succeed.
> 
> Can anyone give advice, how to get this stable without switching on "Internal PLL Overvoltage" ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;15115846*
> Stable for 15,5h now, hope that VCCIO raise to 1,15625 solved the problem.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;15121470*
> F**K! Again! BSOD 124 after 17,5h of Prime95 Custom Blend 6000MB. Will now raise VCCIO to 1,625 and start another Prime run.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimex;15199149*
> Did not have any luck with all settings I tried. After this odyssey I set the settings I had before, which are similar to the listing in the first quote, except "Internal PLL Overvoltage", which I switched on again. This settings have been stable 17,5h+ and another 12h without Errors or BSODs.
> Testing those "stabled" settings again resulted in a BSOD 124 after only 3-4 hours. Another test BSODed after about 12h.
> 
> Why is this no more stable ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't know and would appreciate every help anyone can give.


Pardon my confusion, but are you saying here that having Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled doesn't stabilize it like you once thought, or are you saying that enabling it is the only way to stabilize it?


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15208345*
> Pardon my confusion, but are you saying here that having Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled doesn't stabilize it like you once thought, or are you saying that enabling it is the only way to stabilize it?


I meant, that it did not stabilize it as I thought. After switching it on again I had the same setting, which once was stable. But it wasn't. I am now testing with it Enabled and Offset +0,04 instead of +0,02. When I left this morning, Prime already ran 9h. Hope it will prove stable, then I will try again disabling "internal PLL Overvoltage"


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimex*


I meant, that it did not stabilize it as I thought. After switching it on again I had the same setting, which once was stable. But it wasn't. I am now testing with it Enabled and Offset +0,04 instead of +0,02. When I left this morning, Prime already ran 9h. Hope it will prove stable, then I will try again disabling "internal PLL Overvoltage"


Oh, ok.

I'm looking forward to the results, whatever they may be!


----------



## Caliban86

Hi,

I have recently built my new rig with the P8Z68-V Pro as the foundation. I am happy with the purchase apart form two annoying niggles.

The first is the double cold boot issue and I will be trying the two fixes shown on the first page of this section. However, the advice is to first update the BIOS. Sound advice I am sure, but the last time i tried to flash my BIOS on an ASUS motherboard, i fried it and had to replace it. Therefore, I approach that task with some trepidation. The MOBO enables me to update the BIOS via USB, coolio, on the ASUS website there are multiple BIOS updates. Now for the noobatron quesiton 'Do I flash all the versions there in order, or just the newest entry in the list?

The second issue I am having, is that when I use my headset (stereo 3.5 mm connection to on board soundcard), i get horrible noise/screech every time i move my mouse, it also happens when I maximize and minimize a webpage, not to mention the noise it makes when i run BF3. Has anyone else had this issue and does anyone know any fixes. I have read some reference to Graphics Card issues (i have a 6950) but this did not happen with my previous rig with that card installed. Basically I have put a new mobo, i5 2500k and 8gb ram into my old machine with 750 W PSU and swapped the cables. Nothing else has changed.

I apologize for the noobiness of the questions and if I have missed the information elsewhere (i have searched this forum), but I would very much appreciate your wisdom in these matters.

Cheers!


----------



## RainMotorsports

Flash the latest bios.

Using USB ports that at any point cross the sound cabling or are near the cards are a common issue for noise. I cant use my laptops usb port near the audio jacks and enjoy the sound jacks at the same time. Just check that your avoiding this type of thing. If so then not sure what to tell you.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Caliban86*


Hi,

I have recently built my new rig with the P8Z68-V Pro as the foundation. I am happy with the purchase apart form two annoying niggles.

The first is the double cold boot issue and I will be trying the two fixes shown on the first page of this section. However, the advice is to first update the BIOS. Sound advice I am sure, but the last time i tried to flash my BIOS on an ASUS motherboard, i fried it and had to replace it. Therefore, I approach that task with some trepidation. The MOBO enables me to update the BIOS via USB, coolio, on the ASUS website there are multiple BIOS updates. Now for the noobatron quesiton 'Do I flash all the versions there in order, or just the newest entry in the list?


You can flash directly to the latest BIOS.

I personally recommending the built-in flashing utility that is right in the UEFI itself. It is located in the Tools tab.

I have no experience with this booting issue, so I don't know if it's a guaranteed fix. However, I will tell you one thing about flashing the BIOS: any saved profiles are lost because the entire BIOS (the entire UEFI) is replaced.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*

The second issue I am having, is that when I use my headset (stereo 3.5 mm connection to on board soundcard), i get horrible noise/screech every time i move my mouse, it also happens when I maximize and minimize a webpage, not to mention the noise it makes when i run BF3. Has anyone else had this issue and does anyone know any fixes. I have read some reference to Graphics Card issues (i have a 6950) but this did not happen with my previous rig with that card installed. Basically I have put a new mobo, i5 2500k and 8gb ram into my old machine with 750 W PSU and swapped the cables. Nothing else has changed.

I apologize for the noobiness of the questions and if I have missed the information elsewhere (i have searched this forum), but I would very much appreciate your wisdom in these matters.

Cheers!


I don't know what to do with this one.


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Caliban86*


The second issue I am having, is that when I use my headset (stereo 3.5 mm connection to on board soundcard), i get horrible noise/screech every time i move my mouse, it also happens when I maximize and minimize a webpage, not to mention the noise it makes when i run BF3. Has anyone else had this issue and does anyone know any fixes. I have read some reference to Graphics Card issues (i have a 6950) but this did not happen with my previous rig with that card installed. Basically I have put a new mobo, i5 2500k and 8gb ram into my old machine with 750 W PSU and swapped the cables. Nothing else has changed.


I've seen this issue occur on:

1)Old motherboards
2)Systems where the power input or case is not properly earthed

Try the following after having made sure that you have the latest drivers:

1)Press one of your hands against the body or screws of your case and see if you can still hear it
2)Mute and disable all unnecessary audio playback/recording devices (playback mic, aux, linein, etc...)
3)Try a different pair of headphones or try it on some speakers
4)If possible try again with a different video card in your PC
5)If all else fails consider a discrete audio card


----------



## Maseo

Hello Fellow overclockers!

After a lot of reading through, i've decided to subscribe here to there SB forums.

With 6 years of AMD behind me i've decided to up the ante and go with the famous SB platform, upgrading my 955BE to an i5 2500k. I've been overclocking allot the past years, always trying to squeeze out the last bit of performance where possible, so OC isn't a new thing for me.

Im trying to get that magical 5ghz barrier running stable, but this just seems to be impossible at this time. Benchmarking is possible, but a stable Prime95 isn't doable.

Im running 4.9ghz (49x100) with 1.47Vcore in the BIOS Prime95 stable, with everything on extreme, VRM @ 350hz, but voltages set Manually:

Ram: 1.475v - VCCSA: 0.9v - VCCIO: 1.05v - CPU PLL: 1.475v
(with the default PLL @ 1.8v it won't even do Prime and do a direct BSOD to 124. Found that out here)

Is there ANY way i could get this baby to run on lower vcore / higher OC, or am i just out of luck with this 2500k?









Cheers!


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Caliban86*


Hi,

I have recently built my new rig with the P8Z68-V Pro as the foundation. I am happy with the purchase apart form two annoying niggles.

The first is the double cold boot issue and I will be trying the two fixes shown on the first page of this section. However, the advice is to first update the BIOS. Sound advice I am sure, but the last time i tried to flash my BIOS on an ASUS motherboard, i fried it and had to replace it. Therefore, I approach that task with some trepidation. The MOBO enables me to update the BIOS via USB, coolio, on the ASUS website there are multiple BIOS updates. Now for the noobatron quesiton 'Do I flash all the versions there in order, or just the newest entry in the list?
Cheers!


I'm just curious of what you mean by "double cold boot". If you are literally talking about the pc shutting down, and then starting back up completely at a cold boot, then yes I've seen this problem a couple of times myself. I don't recall having the issue though once I updated the BIOS to 0706, but it didn't happen everytime, anyways. Just occasionally.

If you are talking about the Asus splash screen popping up 3 times during normal boot up, then that's a different issue. It's not rebooting, the splash screen is just interupted by the Marvell and JMB storage controller OPROM. You can disable these (and should if you don't use them) by going to the Advanced BIOS screen, selecting the Advanced tab, Onboard devices configuration, and disabling both (if you use them, but don't want to see the OPROM, disable OPROM).

Hope this post helps!


----------



## nekromantik

hi guys

do you think its worth spending a bit extra to get the Z68 V over the P67 Pro?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nekromantik*


hi guys

do you think its worth spending a bit extra to get the Z68 V over the P67 Pro?


Only if the Z68 V has something I need that the P8P67 Pro doesn't have.


----------



## nekromantik

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Only if the Z68 V has something I need that the P8P67 Pro doesn't have.


yeah im not sure if I will use Virtue as I dont do any video encoding and also if Im gonna get a SSD I will run it as OS drive and not for cache.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maseo*


Hello Fellow overclockers!

After a lot of reading through, i've decided to subscribe here to there SB forums.

With 6 years of AMD behind me i've decided to up the ante and go with the famous SB platform, upgrading my 955BE to an i5 2500k. I've been overclocking allot the past years, always trying to squeeze out the last bit of performance where possible, so OC isn't a new thing for me.

Im trying to get that magical 5ghz barrier running stable, but this just seems to be impossible at this time. Benchmarking is possible, but a stable Prime95 isn't doable.

Im running 4.9ghz (49x100) with 1.47Vcore in the BIOS Prime95 stable, with everything on extreme, VRM @ 350hz, but voltages set Manually:

Ram: 1.475v - VCCSA: 0.9v - VCCIO: 1.05v - CPU PLL: 1.475v
(with the default PLL @ 1.8v it won't even do Prime and do a direct BSOD to 124. Found that out here)

Is there ANY way i could get this baby to run on lower vcore / higher OC, or am i just out of luck with this 2500k?









Cheers!


If needing 1.47v Vcore for 4.9GHz, you probably need 1.5v + Vcore for 5GHz. However, if it scales badly it may need even more. 4.9GHz at 1.47v is not so bad anyway.

I had a 2500K that sucked about 1.44 - 1.45v Vcore in order for 4.7GHz to be stable. Never got 4.8GHz stable with it.

I don't see any magic setting for you to make it to 5GHz at lower Vcore. If using very high speed RAM, it may help to increase VCCIO though.

BTW: Welcome to the OCN


----------



## Caliban86

Thanks for the help all, I will give these a go over the weekend and report back. Luckily I do have a spare 4870 and a sound blaster in my parts box so at the least all the trouble shooting will keep me off the streets!


----------



## chillidog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Help me remember: did we find that you absolutely require Internal PLL Overvoltage to be enabled for this 4.6 GHz overclock? I mean, having it enabled for just 4.6 GHz is usually unnecessary. I do recommend disabling it.

i have tried disabling it,but i was still geting bsod from start ups.

Please try a Load-Line Calibration setting of Ultra High. The 'Extreme' setting causes vRise!

i did tried ultra high before

If you use an Offset voltage, then it will adjust dynamically based on the CPU load which is *very* good for the longevity of the CPU. Do you want to try an Offset voltage? I can make it easy to achieve this same core voltage under load using an Offset voltage.

1.9V for VCCIO? (by the way, it's VCCIO, not VCC*1*O)

Is it really 1.9V? I know it's not, but I am just asking what setting you're using.

i think at the time i type in wrong

This should be enabled for the safety of the CPU.

CPU C1E should be enabled. The only time it makes sense to disable it is when adjusting the BCLK.

I am happy to see that you have these disabled.

well after taking all your comments i did changed things to the way you mentioned.but i was still getting bsod's at start up.so i did some more messing around and and up dating ssd firmware so far since last post no bsod's at start up.and all tests came back ok.temps are much better.and vcore is much lower than before.
did some more prime test this afternoon so i can take pic's and also bios settings.am not going to say am 100% stable yet but it's been two days since last post, but am sure i am on my way there

Would it be better if I sent you a private message each time I reply to one of your posts?


----------



## nekromantik

im gonna be joining the club!!
Just placed order for i5 2500K and Asus P8P67 Pro with 8GB Mushkin Blackline LV RAM


----------



## Maseo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15213393*
> If needing 1.47v Vcore for 4.9GHz, you probably need 1.5v + Vcore for 5GHz. However, if it scales badly it may need even more. 4.9GHz at 1.47v is not so bad anyway.
> 
> I had a 2500K that sucked about 1.44 - 1.45v Vcore in order for 4.7GHz to be stable. Never got 4.8GHz stable with it.
> 
> I don't see any magic setting for you to make it to 5GHz at lower Vcore. If using very high speed RAM, it may help to increase VCCIO though.
> 
> BTW: Welcome to the OCN


Hmm isee! So it's just luck of the draw on order to get a 5ghz sample..

I can get into windows with 1.495Vcore with 5ghz, but benching it it goes up to 1.51~1.53, and even then I'm not sure of its prime stable.. Temps stay under 70c though with my WC setup.

Increasing VCCIO won't do much good. With these low voltages in running I feel saver in some way.

Thanks for the welcome!

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekromantik;15213784*
> im gonna be joining the club!!
> Just placed order for i5 2500K and Asus P8P67 Pro with 8GB Mushkin Blackline LV RAM


Looking forward to getting another P8P67 PRO owner in our Club!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maseo;15213819*
> Hmm isee! So it's just luck of the draw on order to get a 5ghz sample..
> 
> I can get into windows with 1.495Vcore with 5ghz, but benching it it goes up to 1.51~1.53, and even then I'm not sure of its prime stable.. Temps stay under 70c though with my WC setup.
> 
> Increasing VCCIO won't do much good. With these low voltages in running I feel saver in some way.
> 
> Thanks for the welcome!
> 
> Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


Yeah, overclocking Sandy is mostly about how far your particular CPU will go, as long as you have an okay overclocking mobo (Like yours).

Please remember, 5GHz is just a number


----------



## Maseo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15214072*
> Looking forward to getting another P8P67 PRO owner in our Club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, overclocking Sandy is mostly about how far your particular CPU will go, as long as you have an okay overclocking mobo (Like yours).
> 
> Please remember, *5GHz is just a number*


So is 69, but we all love to get that..









One thing i don't get though, is that when im away for a prolonged period of time, my screens are black, system is running, but wont turn on or do anything until i reset the system with the reset switch..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maseo;15214510*
> So is 69, but we all love to get that..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing i don't get though, is that when im away for a prolonged period of time, my screens are black, system is running, but wont turn on or do anything until i reset the system with the reset switch..


May be some compatability issues with Sleep mode and Internal PLL Overvoltage. I know there are issues with Hibernation and this feature enabled, so could just aswell have problems with regular sleep mode too.

However, the latest bios from ASUS are said to fix many of these issues. Not tried it yet though. You'll find it on their ftp (Not posted on their web page yet). You'll find ftp links for each mobo in the first post of this Club.


----------



## james_k_p

Hey Guys,

Since I've set the MB to the bios defaults after the 0706 bios update (is that what it was, I forget), then entering the manual ram numbers per G.Skill support, I have not had a bsod yet.

So I'm hoping by posting this will be the kiss of death and it will happen as I'm getting tired of waiting. lol

If it makes it through the entire weekend of the video recording and encoding I do each football sunday, then I suppose my mb isn't bad. It's a matter of the ram wasn't set right, or the OC.

The "auto" on the ram had it right over the 1.5v, something like 1.51 or whatever it was. Could that slight difference really cause bsods?

I'll report back after the weekend and if no issues, might re-do the OC settings from you Turrican as the last time I had that darn TPU switch on, so they didn't take affect anyways. Thanks again fellas.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15214630*
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Since I've set the MB to the bios defaults after the 0706 bios update (is that what it was, I forget), then entering the manual ram numbers per G.Skill support, I have not had a bsod yet.
> 
> So I'm hoping by posting this will be the kiss of death and it will happen as I'm getting tired of waiting. lol
> 
> If it makes it through the entire weekend of the video recording and encoding I do each football sunday, then I suppose my mb isn't bad. It's a matter of the ram wasn't set right, or the OC.
> 
> The "auto" on the ram had it right over the 1.5v, something like 1.51 or whatever it was. Could that slight difference really cause bsods?
> 
> I'll report back after the weekend and if no issues, might re-do the OC settings from you Turrican as the last time I had that darn TPU switch on, so they didn't take affect anyways. Thanks again fellas.


There is a 0902 bios for your board now. Dated yesterday. ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z68-V_PRO/


----------



## Maseo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15214545*
> May be some compatability issues with Sleep mode and Internal PLL Overvoltage. I know there are issues with Hibernation and this feature enabled, so could just aswell have problems with regular sleep mode too.
> 
> However, the latest bios from ASUS are said to fix many of these issues. Not tried it yet though. You'll find it on their ftp (Not posted on their web page yet). You'll find ftp links for each mobo in the first post of this Club.


I see.

Just flashed the 2001 BIOS. Doing a 49x100 Prime run with LOWER vcore then before! 1.45, and still running!!

Seems they did a good job fixing stuff with the 2001.

EDIT: nevermind what i said, it just 101'ed on me. Though, it did more runs in Prime95 before BSOD-ing
Try it if you can..!


----------



## Xraven771

can the ( Asus P8Z68-V PRO ) take this ram - http://www.ebuyer.com/262585-corsair-vengeance-8gb-2x4gb-ddr3-1866mhz-memory-kit-cl9-cmz8gx3m2a1866c9 or would any one suggest anything better/different


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15214691*
> There is a 0902 bios for your board now. Dated yesterday. ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z68-V_PRO/


Yep, I saw. I don't want to change anything else yet until the weekend passes. I don't want anymore variables. I know this probably has nothing to do with it, but it would make me reboot and I don't even want to do that. I want to run it until it crashes....or doesn't.


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraven771;15215421*
> can the ( Asus P8Z68-V PRO ) take this ram - http://www.ebuyer.com/262585-corsair-vengeance-8gb-2x4gb-ddr3-1866mhz-memory-kit-cl9-cmz8gx3m2a1866c9 or would any one suggest anything better/different


These are the 2 kits recommended by G.Skill's support if you want to go in that direction.
8gig kit: F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL

16gig kit: F3-10666CL9Q-16GBXL

I'm email their support directly if you want that brand and ask them. If they are half as good as g.skill's support, they'll get back to you with recommendations.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraven771;15215421*
> can the ( Asus P8Z68-V PRO ) take this ram - http://www.ebuyer.com/262585-corsair-vengeance-8gb-2x4gb-ddr3-1866mhz-memory-kit-cl9-cmz8gx3m2a1866c9 or would any one suggest anything better/different


am quite sure the answer to your question is yes


----------



## COOLMAN101

Hi, i was wondering if anyone is having the same issue as me:

My motherboard p8p67 evo is making a high pitched noise, coming from the CPU area...

It is really high frequency and it is slowly driving me insane, if anyone can offer some help or advice it would be wonderful!


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraven771;15215421*
> can the ( Asus P8Z68-V PRO ) take this ram - http://www.ebuyer.com/262585-corsair-vengeance-8gb-2x4gb-ddr3-1866mhz-memory-kit-cl9-cmz8gx3m2a1866c9 or would any one suggest anything better/different


I am running the 1600mhz version in the 16 gb kit form. Ought to work fine.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maseo;15215335*
> I see.
> 
> Just flashed the 2001 BIOS. Doing a 49x100 Prime run with LOWER vcore then before! 1.45, and still running!!
> 
> Seems they did a good job fixing stuff with the 2001.
> 
> EDIT: nevermind what i said, it just 101'ed on me. Though, it did more runs in Prime95 before BSOD-ing
> Try it if you can..!


Yeah, I flashed it a few hours ago. And it actually seems I can get away with a tad lower Vcore VS previous bioses









Testing with 1792KB FFT at 5GHz HT-Off now. Seems promising









Edit: Nope, I spoke too soon









Edit2: What I've found is that C3/C6 needed to be disable at both 4.5 and 5GHz, or else Windows would lock up once I reached the desktop.


----------



## samuel002

2001 bios? I don't see it on the motherboard section for the pro version


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15219526*
> 2001 bios? I don't see it on the motherboard section for the pro version


It's in the FTP: ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15219526*
> 2001 bios? I don't see it on the motherboard section for the pro version


I think people are finding them at Station-Drivers.com. I saw a thread earlier today informing everyone that the latest BIOSes are available at www.station-drivers.com. So, in a sense it's kind of like a pre-release of the official/final BIOS.


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15220235*
> I think people are finding them at Station-Drivers.com. I saw a thread earlier today informing everyone that the latest BIOSes are available at www.station-drivers.com. So, in a sense it's kind of like a pre-release of the official/final BIOS.


I got mine from here: ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67_DELUXE/P8P67-DELUXE-ASUS-2001.zip


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFL Replica;15220334*
> I got mine from here: ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67_DELUXE/P8P67-DELUXE-ASUS-2001.zip


Yeah I know, but he might be wondering how most people might be finding out about their existence.


----------



## samuel002

 deluxe bios works on pro?


----------



## RainMotorsports

I am having a lovely day. Machine keeps turning off on my after hours of idle or hours of running something. Gonna go single stick of ram and probably reinstall everything do some load testing after.


----------



## thinkingbeyondthesquare

Well this has been fun 

Under Ubuntu Linux 11.10 I have tried to get the Z68V-Pro to boot above the 46x multiplier. I've tried all of the suggestions in the list to no avail. Not to worry as I think that cpu temps may be an issue here in the summer anyway (often gets above 45C ambient).

Besides this being my workstation it also crunches Seti Workunits on the CPU and GPU - so its pretty much running at 95% to 100% all the time its on.

So since I cant go up I thought I would go down.... with voltage.

I've been using the the offset voltage as it seems to do the trick under all my other scenarios. I had started with a + 0.04V offset. (Note I had this up to +0.05V to try and get it to boot at 47x multiplier.)

Anyway I started to decrease the offset voltage. My initial benchmark was to reduce it until it didnt boot, then come up a couple of increments above that.

So at - 0.05V it didn't boot. I upped it to - 0.04V and it booted. I am now running Seti at full CPU usage, its the only way I can really push the computer under linux (I dont have all those fancy Windows tools - and the ones available for Linux dont push the CPU any where near as hard that Seti does!).

So now my Vcore is fluctuating between 1.31V and 1.32V, occasionally hitting 1.33V. This may not sound like allot, however before I started this little test it was hovering around the 1.4V to 1.41V level. So its a decent drop in power consumption.

I also noted that dropping Vcore also had DRAM voltage dropping. From the original of around 1.6V to a nice 1.525V.

So far all stable - we will see what transpires over the next few weeks.

Cheers


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002;15221576*
> deluxe bios works on pro?


Please check first post of this Club. Under the Club picture there are ftp links for each motherboard in the P8P67 and P8Z68 series supported by this ownersclub.

There you will find the 2001 bios for your board.

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67_PRO/

Example:


----------



## turrican9

*Doming0*, a P8Z68-V owner and *BZ1891*, a P8P67 PRO owner added to the Club!

Welcome!


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15210171*
> Oh, ok.
> 
> I'm looking forward to the results, whatever they may be!


With offset voltage +0.04 instead of 0.02 and "Internal PLL Overvoltage" enabled it has been stable 20h+, a point I never reached in the last few test, always being interrupted by this BSOD 124.
Now I am testing with "Internal PLL Overvoltage" disabled. Prime is already running for 10,5h, hope I will not have to stop it manually so soon. Could be, that I will break after 12h and delay the really long test for a few days because I really would like to play Rage a little more.


----------



## Xraven771

Whats best/difference ... Asus P8P67 Deluxe Rev3 or the Asus P8Z68-V PRO ?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraven771;15222792*
> Whats best/difference ... Asus P8P67 Deluxe Rev3 or the Asus P8Z68-V PRO ?


Main difference is that P8Z68-V PRO has the Z68 chipset. Onboard Video (Lucid Virtu) and SSD Harddrive Caching. You can read all about it in the third post of this Club.

The P8P67 Deluxe is based on the P67 chipset. Missing the above mentioned, but has a few other features since it is a Deluxe. So if the Z68 features are not important for you, the Deluxe would be the better one in other areas.

I should mention that there is a reason for the P8P67 PRO being so popular. It has all of the most important features from the P8P67 Series, and comes at a nice price.

You can compare features by looking at these links:

ASUS P8P67 PRO

ASUS P8P67 Deluxe

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO

Also look at these charts:


----------



## Maseo

Well Funny..

It seems that 50x is my multiplier wall. Whatever i do, i can't up it from there, and i need a HUUUGE Vcore boost to get it running at 5 ghz.

49x100 it is, now with a lowered vcore of 1.45 running OCCT - linpack for 9 hours.. Sufficient to say it's stable?

Real Temp says that max temps reached 61-70-70-65 somewhere this morning, and the minimum temps before start were 25-26-26-26 °C

Im happy


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maseo;15222919*
> Well Funny..
> 
> It seems that 50x is my multiplier wall. Whatever i do, i can't up it from there, and i need a HUUUGE Vcore boost to get it running at 5 ghz.
> 
> 49x100 it is, now with a lowered vcore of 1.45 running OCCT - linpack for 9 hours.. Sufficient to say it would be stable?


Yeah, mine also needs a big Vcore boost from 4.9 to 5GHz. Not worth it.

For stability testing Sandybridge you should use Prime 95 Blend, and type in a good deal of mem to use.

I have 8GB RAM, so I type in 6000MB.

Also, to quickly isolate if you have enough Vcore, the 1792KB FFT is excellent to use. Run it for 30 minutes with most of your mem. If you pass it, there is a very good chance you will pass the normal P95 Blend preset for 12 hours +. At least Vcore wise.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maseo;15222919*
> Well Funny..
> 
> It seems that 50x is my multiplier wall. Whatever i do, i can't up it from there, and i need a HUUUGE Vcore boost to get it running at 5 ghz.
> 
> 49x100 it is, now with a lowered vcore of 1.45 running OCCT - linpack for 9 hours.. Sufficient to say it's stable?
> 
> Real Temp says that max temps reached 61-70-70-65 somewhere this morning, and the minimum temps before start were 25-26-26-26 °C
> 
> Im happy


Do you have Internal PLL Voltage enabled?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


Do you have Internal PLL Voltage enabled?


As far as I can remember he was able to boot Windows at x50 and start stability testing, so it was most probably enabled.. Or else Windows would most likely just freeze on startup.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


As far as I can remember he was able to boot Windows at x50 and start stability testing, so it was most probably enabled.. Or else Windows would most likely just freeze on startup.


Yea true...im sleepy lol


----------



## jetpuck73

I just installed a P8P67 PRO and it does not boot, only light I get is the green led on the board. Do you think it is DOA?


----------



## turrican9

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *jetpuck73*   I just installed a P8P67 PRO and it does not boot, only light I get is the green led on the board. Do you think it is DOA?  
Make sure RAM sticks is inserted properly. I got fooled by this one time.

Here is a guide

Edit: Here is a better one, showing installation with the one Latch system, which the P8P67/P8Z68 series are using...


----------



## jetpuck73

I checked that and they are good, this is what I have

P8P67 PRO R3.1 LGA 1155 P67 ATX Intel Motherboard

XMS 8GB DDR3-1333 (PC3-10666) CL9 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit

Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750 Watt ATX Power Supply

HAF X Full Tower ATX Gaming Computer Case

Core i5 2500K LGA 1155 Boxed Processor

MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetpuck73*


I checked that and they are good, this is what I have

P8P67 PRO R3.1 LGA 1155 P67 ATX Intel Motherboard

XMS 8GB DDR3-1333 (PC3-10666) CL9 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit

Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750 Watt ATX Power Supply

HAF X Full Tower ATX Gaming Computer Case

Core i5 2500K LGA 1155 Boxed Processor

MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti


You should be using the two blue slots when using two sticks, according to the users manual.

If you are, and still no boot, try the two black slots. If still no boot, try one stick at a time, in different slots.

And if this does not work, try another video card if you have. If nothing works, try taking mobo out of it's case and start it this way, to isolate shorts or grounding problems.


----------



## jetpuck73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


You should be using the two blue slots when using two sticks, according to the users manual.

If you are, and still no boot, try the two black slots. If still no boot, try one stick at a time, in different slots.

And if this does not work, try another video card if you have. If nothing works, try taking mobo out of it's case and start it this way, to isolate shorts or grounding problems.


I have tried everything that you suggested all night and still nothing but just the green led on the board.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetpuck73*


I have tried everything that you suggested all night and still nothing but just the green led on the board.


Tried reseating your CPU?

Tried taking out cmos battery and shorten cmos for 15 minutes?

Tried another PSU?


----------



## jetpuck73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Tried reseating your CPU?

Tried taking out cmos battery and shorten cmos for 15 minutes?

Tried another PSU?


Yes

I will give that a shot, how do I shorten cmos?

Yes


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetpuck73*


Yes

I will give that a shot, how do I shorten cmos?

Yes


Turn off your system, turn off your PSU, then hold the power button for about 20 seconds to unload the power.

Take out the battery.

Then locate the cmos jumper on the board. Move it to pin 2-3 and let it stand there for 15 minutes.

Then install battery and move cmos jumper back to pin 1-2. Now try to fire up your system


----------



## jetpuck73

I still just get the green led on the board and the fans for the cpu spin for 1 second then nothing.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetpuck73*


I still just get the green led on the board and the fans for the cpu spin for 1 second then nothing.


And you've plugged in all cables from PSU, included the 8-pin power cable located near the CPU socket?


----------



## jetpuck73

Yes


----------



## Xraven771

so is the pro or the deluxe top of the range ?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xraven771*


so is the pro or the deluxe top of the range ?


I answered you here.


----------



## jetpuck73

I am just going to exchange it at Microcenter, thank you for your help. If the new one works I will let you know.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetpuck73*


I am just going to exchange it at Microcenter, thank you for your help. If the new one works I will let you know.


Yeah, good luck! And please let us know how it goes


----------



## Maseo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


As far as I can remember he was able to boot Windows at x50 and start stability testing, so it was most probably enabled.. Or else Windows would most likely just freeze on startup.


You sir, are correct









But whats the difference with OCCT vs Prima95 stability?

Small FTT's run fine, Blend however BSOD's the hell out of my system in a couple of minutes.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maseo*


You sir, are correct









But whats the difference with OCCT vs Prima95 stability?

Small FTT's run fine, Blend however BSOD's the hell out of my system in a couple of minutes.


Blend is the only real stability test for Sandybridge. It pushes mem and memcontroller (built-in the Sandybridge) Even if you're stable in Small FFT's, Linpack/IBT or OCCT, does not mean you're system is stable. It can crash when you're gaming or doing other somewhat heavy stuff.

If you're 12 hours + stable in Blend, you can be pretty sure you have a stable system.

Also, I highly recommend Disabling C3/C6, even if others say they are fine at Auto. They are not in my system, at least with the latest 2001 bios for my P8P67 PRO. If these are at Auto or enabled they can cause Idle BSOD's or freezing.

Edit: If you wanna proof to yourself and others, true stability, then head over to the *[] The Sandy STABLE Club []* and read the OP carefully. Then make a run for it.


----------



## munaim1

Hey bud, I've had a few kinda bring this to my attention a couple weeks ago and not sure whether or not this issue can be fixed by a BIOS update. I personally don't have an issue as im using an intel ssd, same as you.

JJ also explained how C states can have an effect on the sata performance, mainly sata III:

Quote:



Quick note regarding options that can affect subsystem performance
It is NOT advised to make adjustments to Cstates as this can considerably affect hard drive throughput performance ( *especially SATA6G SSD or Sandforce 2 based SSD* ). It is recommended that all CPU power configuration states be left on their default parameters. Overclocking tests have shown internally no increase in multiplier scaling when adjusting these values. * under special cases with high multi capable CPUs and synthetic high load applications ( Linx, Prime, Occt ) it may required C states to be disabled. This has generally only been confirmed for some 51-54 multi capable CPU's.


This is obviously an issue for those with high overclocks. I have upto this point advised to disable C3 and C6 reports due to idle random bsods when using offset voltage, otherwise they're left on auto (default).

Bit of info from the stable thread:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *error-id10t*


When I got my board, I read this too and thought 'what nonsense'.. or at least misinformation.

Owning a Vertex2 I can say that enabling C3 and C6 will slow it down (4k writes especially) and though the M4s on my current build are not affected to the same extent, the SATA throughput is not crippled by disabling C3 and C6. I only checked using AS-SSD and access times don't change either way, if you want I guess Anvil gives more information to prove this either way.

add: you can run 3DMark11 which shows smaller score if you enable C3 and C6 so it does have an impact (negative).



Quote:



Originally Posted by *FoLmEr*


Yup I can attest to the C3-C6 states lowering throughput of SSDs.

Below are some tests I did earlier with my previous SATA II SSD (Corsair Force120).

WITHOUT C3-C6 states:









WITH C3-C6 states:









The drop is even greater w/ SATA III.

As you can see, though, only my writes are getting handicapped, but at 216MB/s it's pretty fast anyway, so I guess it's only _almost_ a nobrainer. Other sysconfigs may yield different results, so you should test it yourself on your system altho generally I ALWAYS disable C-states while overclocking since I just don't see the need for them.


I believe folmer's testing was with 4.6ghz, but not 100% sure but if it is *then it kinda makes sense for all users that run sandforce based ssd's or sata III ssd's to disable C3 and C6 and that obviously means that they should use offset voltage and NOT manual.*

what do you make of it?


----------



## turrican9

*munaim1*

Hi, bud. I will look into this tomorrow. I'm to drunk to make something of this now.

Cheers!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15225020*
> *munaim1*
> 
> Hi, bud. I will look into this tomorrow. I'm to drunk to make something of this now.
> 
> Cheers!










cool


----------



## turrican9

*munaim1*

You must have done a great job, and be a very popular person, because you have gotten over 300 + REP's the last month or something?!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15225170*
> *munaim1*
> 
> You must have done a great job, and be a very popular person, because you have gotten over 300 + REP's the last month or something?!


lol thanks bud, been quite active and learnt a few things here and there and obviously taken the time to share my findings and help wherever possible.

Actually got all my REP in about 6/7 months lol I've only been here since Jan/Feb 2011, ignore the join date lol. Did I mention I got 2 stickies so far and the stable thread is quite popular, nearly 4.5k posts and over 200K replies!!!!!









Journey has definitely been going very well for me.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;15225230*
> lol thanks bud, been quite active and learnt a few things here and there and obviously taken the time to share my findings and help wherever possible.
> 
> Actually got all my REP in about 6/7 months lol I've only been here since Jan/Feb 2011, ignore the join date lol. Did I mention I got 2 stickies so far and the stable thread is quite popular, nearly 4.5k posts and over 200K replies!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Journey has definitely been going very well for me.


A great contribution to the OCN


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15225286*
> A great contribution to the OCN


Thanks, really appreciate it.


----------



## TwoCables

I have just disabled both C3 and C6 due to all of this talk about disabling C3 and C6 instead of having them set to Auto, and also because I had that strange lock-up back on August 30th (Post #3336). I mean, this talk about C3 and C6 right now is making me think that my system locked up because they were set to Auto.

*turrican9:* can you update Post #2 to reflect that I have C3 and C6 disabled? That part of the "template" should now say:

*CPU C3 Report:* Disabled
*CPU C6 Report:* Disabled

Thank you!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15225915*
> I have just disabled both C3 and C6 due to all of this talk about disabling C3 and C6 instead of having them set to Auto, and also because I had that strange lock-up back on August 30th (Post #3336). I mean, this talk about C3 and C6 right now is making me think that my system locked up because they were set to Auto.
> 
> *turrican9:* can you update Post #2 to reflect that I have C3 and C6 disabled? That part of the "template" should now say:
> 
> *CPU C3 Report:* Disabled
> *CPU C6 Report:* Disabled
> 
> Thank you!


Done.

Though I must say, this amongst a few other things was not your discovery. But I will give you the 'credit' of adding it to your 'Template'.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15225948*
> Done.
> 
> Though I must say, this amongst a few other things was not your discovery. But I will give you the 'credit' of adding it to your 'Template'.


Thank you!

Although, I know it isn't my discovery. I wasn't trying to say that it is. It's just that it occurred to me that since those settings are designed for using an Offset voltage, it might be best if C3 and C6 are showing as "Disabled" just in case.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15226014*
> Thank you!
> 
> Although, I know it isn't my discovery. I wasn't trying to say that it is. It's just that it occurred to me that since those settings are designed for using an Offset voltage, it might be best if C3 and C6 are showing as "Disabled" just in case.


I've said all along that C3/C6 should be Disabled when using Offset.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15226038*
> I've said all along that C3/C6 should be Disabled when using Offset.


Can I ask why offset is used rather than just specifying? I ask because I am new to the whole sandy bridge deal. Coming up from bus clocking C2D's.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15226154*
> Can I ask why offset is used rather than just specifying? I ask because I am new to the whole sandy bridge deal. Coming up from bus clocking C2D's.


Offset allows the voltage to dynamically adjust based on load which is very good for the longevity/life of the CPU.

For example, at full load my CPU uses 1.392V to 1.400V, but while idling it only uses 1.032V - 1.040V - 1.048V (that's the range I usually see). Additionally, it uses all kinds of different voltages in between because it does a very good job of dynamically adjusting based on the amount of load.

If I just use the Manual voltage, then it stays at 1.392V to 1.400V "24/7" - even while my system is idling.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Thanks cables. Ive run into something with the 0902 bios btw. It seems to like to stay at turbo speeds once its gotten there. Voltages to match. Other related things. Im going back to 0706.

EDIT - Uh oh can i go back? lol

Its in the case now:









Still looking for my extra stand offs. Fans are plugged in now but I am not tying anything down yet.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15226572*
> Thanks cables. Ive run into something with the 0902 bios btw. It seems to like to stay at turbo speeds once its gotten there. Voltages to match. Other related things. Im going back to 0706.


I wouldn't know what to do either.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15226572*
> EDIT - Uh oh can i go back? lol


I'm not sure; I haven't tried yet.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15226572*
> Its in the case now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still looking for my extra stand offs. Fans are plugged in now but I am not tying anything down yet.


Whoa. That's gonna look really nice when you're done!


----------



## RainMotorsports

I take it back (unless the bios half flashed and things are all of a sudden working) it is throttling. But defaults seem to also put turbo at 34 and control in ai to off. Once you set it to on and reboot its 37 both in bios and in ai. Not sure but does seem to have a little quirk.

Eitherway there is a downgrade method but you have to use both the ami flasher and ai.


----------



## paradoxum

why don't the CPU speeds match when not under load?


----------



## TwoCables

paradoxum:

I've never understood that either, but I think that it's because Real Temp 3.67 is a beta. So I have a feeling that if TechPowerUp ever gets around to finishing it, then it might be accurate in the final version. Fortunately, it doesn't have to be accurate because we have CPU-Z.


----------



## nawon72

Anyone know if BIOS 2001 is better for OCing than 1704?

And did anyone get the time to check this out:
quote=nawon72;15092209]
Here are the results from the test i ran yesterday:








As you can see, it did even worse than the 9-9-9-28-2T test. So i believe this is further proof that using Manual could lead to instability on some systems such as mine. Interestingly, i got BSOD 101 this time. Care to test this yourself?
*
Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 46
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* 1600MHz

*DRAM Timing Control:* 8-8-8-24-2T

*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Optimized
*Duty Control:* T. Probe

*CPU Current Capability:* 120%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.035V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V

*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* Auto
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto
 *
*The difference between the above settings which failed in 7.5h, and the settings i used that lasted 16-19h on 3 tests is Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual is set to XMP.[/quote]


----------



## nawon72

Anyone know if BIOS 2001 is better for OCing than 1704?

And did anyone get the time to check this out:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Here are the results from the test i ran yesterday:








As you can see, it did even worse than the 9-9-9-28-2T test. So i believe this is further proof that using Manual could lead to instability on some systems such as mine. Interestingly, i got BSOD 101 this time. Care to test this yourself?
*
Ai Tweaker*

*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 46
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* 1600MHz

*DRAM Timing Control:* 8-8-8-24-2T

*EPU Power Saving MODE:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

*Load-Line Calibration:* High
*VRM Frequency:* Manual
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350
*Phase Control:* Optimized
*Duty Control:* T. Probe

*CPU Current Capability:* 120%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.035V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V

*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* Auto
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Auto
*CPU C6 Report:* Auto
 *
*The difference between the above settings which failed in 7.5h, and the settings i used that lasted 16-19h on 3 tests is Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual is set to XMP.


----------



## turrican9

*nawon72*

I'm currently using the 2001 bios. Seems no better VS the 1850 beta for overclocking. Needing roughly same amount of Vcore for my certain speeds.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


Hey bud, I've had a few kinda bring this to my attention a couple weeks ago and not sure whether or not this issue can be fixed by a BIOS update. I personally don't have an issue as im using an intel ssd, same as you.

JJ also explained how C states can have an effect on the sata performance, mainly sata III:

This is obviously an issue for those with high overclocks. I have upto this point advised to disable C3 and C6 reports due to idle random bsods when using offset voltage, otherwise they're left on auto (default).

Bit of info from the stable thread:

I believe folmer's testing was with 4.6ghz, but not 100% sure but if it is *then it kinda makes sense for all users that run sandforce based ssd's or sata III ssd's to disable C3 and C6 and that obviously means that they should use offset voltage and NOT manual.*

what do you make of it?


This is very interesting. People with Sandforce SSD's should at least know about this. I will consider adding this information in the OP, or a link to your post.

Thanks for the information!

Edit: Added in the first post

Quote:



*Here is some interesting information posted by munaim1 about C3/C6 states and their relation to SATA performance. Especially with Sandforce SSD's. I'll just link to his post. Link*


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*nawon72*

I'm currently using the 2001 bios. Seems no better VS the 1850 beta for overclocking. Needing roughly same amount of Vcore for my certain speeds.


Thanks for your input.

Are you ever going to update this:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


_
*Try disabling C3/C6 states. This will hinder the CPU in ramping down the Vcore (as much?) when at idle/light load with Offset Vcore. (Will try this myself. Got a report it helped stability.)
*
_

You said you were going to try it yourself for a long, long time.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Thanks for your input.

Are you ever going to update this:

You said you were going to try it yourself for a long, long time.


I just noticed that as I was updating OP.

I have ran with C3/C6 disabled for a long time now, and will update OP accordingly. Thanks for reminding me


----------



## nawon72

Now if only one of the mods could remove the poll from the thread...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


Now if only one of the mods could remove the poll from the thread...


I've asked several moderators, never got any feedback. So I don't know if it's possible.

Anyway, I think I did the right thing by including the P8Z68 series. They are almost identical to the P8P67 series, appart from those two new features of the Z68 chipset.

Updated OP now:

Quote:



_
*Try disabling C3/C6 states. This will hinder the CPU in ramping down the Vcore (as much?) when at idle/light load with Offset Vcore. (Will try this myself. Got a report it helped stability.) Update! I have been using C3/C6 disabled for a long time now. Turns out these can cause idle BSOD's or freezing if they are at AUTO or ENABLED when overclocking. Me and others have confirmed it is best to leave these two Disabled when overclocking.

[*]Use manual Vcore setting instead of Offset.*
_


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*snip*


I just remembered something you should add. Disabling both C3 and C6 will make the *Turbo Ratio:* By Per Core BIOS setting useless, because the clock speed in the OS will not change based on the number of cores used.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


I just remembered something you should add. Disabling both C3 and C6 will make the By Per Core BIOS setting useless, because the clock speed in the OS will not change based on the number of cores used.


Done


----------



## nawon72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Done










I think this will make it a little more obvious what setting is being referred to:

Quote:



*Beware though, that when disabling both C3 and C6 the Turbo Ratio:** By Per Core function in bios will no longer work. *


----------



## RainMotorsports

Meh looks like im gonna need some one on one with my overclock. 4.4 was easy 4.5 took a little work. Cant really boot 4.6 yet no matter what i do.

Im off tomorrow if anyone has a little time. 4.5 Daily is fine for me but id like to get 5ghz if possible even if its 1 coring it for the validation lol.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;15234962*
> I think this will make it a little more obvious what setting is being referred to:


Fixed


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15233999*
> I've asked several moderators, never got any feedback. So I don't know if it's possible.


It's not. Even us seniors can only edit or open/close polls; a manager or webmaster (users marked Site Admin) is required if you want the poll completely removed.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;15237872*
> It's not. Even us seniors can only edit or open/close polls; a manager or webmaster (users marked Site Admin) is required if you want the poll completely removed.


Could you try and talk to a Site Admin about this? I really want it removed


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15237931*
> Could you try and talk to a Site Admin about this? I really want it removed


237000 views on this thread. That's a lot of people who are seeing an old and useless poll. Getting rid of it would definitely be a good idea in this case.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;15238032*
> 237000 views on this thread. That's a lot of people who are seeing an old and useless poll. Getting rid of it would definitely be a good idea in this case.


I was under under the impression that it can't be removed. I asked for a mod to do the same for one of my threads and this was the reply I got:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14182785*
> There's no way to delete the poll without deleting the entire thread.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;15238142*
> I was under under the impression that it can't be removed. I asked for a mod to do the same for one of my threads and this was the reply I got:


There must be a way. Had I known this, I would never have started a poll in this thread. It's useless and it takes up space.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15238186*
> There must be a way. Had I known this, I would never have started a poll in this thread. It's useless and it takes up space.


And its right at the top of the page, so its the first thing you see:doh:


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15237931*
> Could you try and talk to a Site Admin about this? I really want it removed


The webmasters are quite busy so I'll ask one of the managers. It might take from a few hours to a day or so (depending if they're on or not) to get it taken care of so be patient.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;15238245*
> The webmasters are quite busy so I'll ask one of the managers. It might take from a few hours to a day or so (depending if they're on or not) to get it taken care of so be patient.


Thank you sir!

Awaiting with patience to get this thing removed


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;15238245*
> The webmasters are quite busy so I'll ask one of the managers. It might take from a few hours to a day or so (depending if they're on or not) to get it taken care of so be patient.


I think its been up for four months, but im not sure when turrican asked to have it removed. So i think we can handle another week, or month.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;15238336*
> I think its been up for four months, but im not sure when turrican asked to have it removed. So i think we can handle another week, or month.


I asked to get it removed many months ago, but never heard back.


----------



## jcharlesr75

I'd like to be added, but im not to sure how to do screenshots in ubuntu, so when my next wu ends ill boot into windows and submit my crap. But whats in my sig is what i have folding 24/7.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcharlesr75;15238564*
> I'd like to be added, but im not to sure how to do screenshots in ubuntu, so when my next wu ends ill boot into windows and submit my crap. But whats in my sig is what i have folding 24/7.


Wrong club? Your sig shows a Gigabyte Z68 board


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15238367*
> I asked to get it removed many months ago, but never heard back.


Hmm, not sure who you asked... anyway The_Manual got back to me just now, it has to be done via the admin control panel (so indeed I can't do that) and he'll be able to do it in the morning.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;15239102*
> Hmm, not sure who you asked... anyway The_Manual got back to me just now, it has to be done via the admin control panel (so indeed I can't do that) and he'll be able to do it in the morning.












And I was told it couldn't be done in my thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14182785*
> There's no way to delete the poll without deleting the entire thread.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;15239102*
> Hmm, not sure who you asked... anyway The_Manual got back to me just now, it has to be done via the admin control panel (so indeed I can't do that) and he'll be able to do it in the morning.


I PM'ed a few mods several months ago. Can't remember who though. Think they must have forgotten all about it or something

Great! So now we finally get rid of that poll!









Thanks! I really appreciate this!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15239137*
> I PM'ed a few mods several months ago. Can't remember who though. Think they must have forgotten all about it or something
> 
> Great! So now we finally get rid of that poll!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I really appreciate this!


Indeed!!!!







It'll look so much better.

Im gonna request the same for my nvidia thread.


----------



## jcharlesr75

lmao, sorry wrong thread


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcharlesr75;15239369*
> lmao, sorry wrong thread


:heyyou:hehe


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15236293*
> Meh looks like im gonna need some one on one with my overclock. 4.4 was easy 4.5 took a little work. Cant really boot 4.6 yet no matter what i do.
> 
> Im off tomorrow if anyone has a little time. 4.5 Daily is fine for me but id like to get 5ghz if possible even if its 1 coring it for the validation lol.


What are all of your settings right now?


----------



## jetpuck73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15223273*
> Yeah, good luck! And please let us know how it goes


It was a bad board, got a GA-Z68XP-UD3. Thanks for all of your help!!!


----------



## turrican9

A few comments about the notorious 1344 and 1792KB FFT's.

When using Ultra High LLC the smaller FFT's makes the CPU hotter and push the highest Vcore. The larger ones, like the 1344KB and 1792KB FFT's runs much cooler and pushes a lower Vcore, yet these (Especially the 1792KBFFT) are always the ones (1792FFT) that fails in Prime 95 Blend when too low Vcore.

So going by this logic I will try to use LLC at high instead of Ultra High. This will cause the Vdroop to be larger when going with the smaller FFT's (Which is the easy ones for Sandybridge) and give a little higher Vcore to the large ones.

Simple logic.

Edit: And of course, I will compensate using higher Offset when going down to LLC High, to get about the same target Vcore VS LLC Ultra high.

BTW: I see the poll has not been removed yet


----------



## Sean Webster

P8Z68-V BIOS 801 released October 10, 2011: ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z68-V/P8Z68-V-ASUS-0801.zip

Release Notes
[ 0801 ]

1. Improve memory compatibility
2. Improve system stability
3. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

Who else finds this odd that it is 801...I just installed 902.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15247102*
> So going by this logic I will try to use LLC at high instead of Ultra High. This will cause the Vdroop to be larger when going with the smaller FFT's (Which is the easy ones for Sandybridge) and give a little higher Vcore to the large ones.
> 
> Simple logic.
> 
> Edit: And of course, I will compensate using higher Offset when going down to LLC High, to get about the same target Vcore VS LLC Ultra high.
> 
> BTW: I see the poll has not been removed yet


That's exactly why i'm using high instead of ultra high and also it helps with the votlage fluctuation that I get when using ultra high.

Here, I actually changed to high when I changed to offset a couple months ago but here is an example of what I mean: http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/1128825-12hrs-p95-means-stable-guess-again-2.html#post15114926

Contact Chipp to get the poll removed, I enquired about removing the poll in my nvidia driver review thread and was done in less than 5 minutes.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;15247917*
> Who else finds this odd that it is 801...I just installed 902.


Well where did you find the release notes? If its from their site I find it 0% odd since 902 isnt published yet. Might be on the ftp as a quick fix for a particular problem. Who knows. I am not familiar with their firmware testing but they might have a policy of waiting on no priority fixes to make sure theyre semi stable with a reference configuration.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15249749*
> Well where did you find the release notes? If its from their site I find it 0% odd since 902 isnt published yet. Might be on the ftp as a quick fix for a particular problem. Who knows. I am not familiar with their firmware testing but they might have a policy of waiting on no priority fixes to make sure theyre semi stable with a reference configuration.


Asus forum moderator in support. http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20111010174235070&board_id=1&model=P8Z68-V&page=1&SLanguage=en-us


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


That's exactly why i'm using high instead of ultra high and also it helps with the votlage fluctuation that I get when using ultra high.

Here, I actually changed to high when I changed to offset a couple months ago but here is an example of what I mean: http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post15114926

Contact Chipp to get the poll removed, I enquired about removing the poll in my nvidia driver review thread and was done in less than 5 minutes.











I have contacted Chipp now! Thanks for your suggestion! I just wanna get rid of this poll now!


----------



## noshibby

I'm having an issue with my board, I was running the 0509 bios then updates to the 0606 with the new intel rst, did all that properly then went to 0902. (I got 0902 from the asus site btw)

...my raid array disappeared and I don't know how to get it back without wiping the drives.

I'm thinking somehow I should be able to do a raid migration and it will show up Im just not sure how to go about doing this


----------



## turrican9

Yeaahh! The Poll is gone! Thanks to *Chipp*!

And thanks to *munaim1* for pointing me to *Chipp*!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noshibby*


I'm having an issue with my board, I was running the 0509 bios then updates to the 0606 with the new intel rst, did all that properly then went to 0902. (I got 0902 from the asus site btw)

...my raid array disappeared and I don't know how to get it back without wiping the drives.

I'm thinking somehow I should be able to do a raid migration and it will show up Im just not sure how to go about doing this


Have you tried Windows Disk Management and see if you could possibly rebuild the array from there?


----------



## chillidog

hi all
just an update as some may know that i have been having trouble with my oc's lately when i managed to oc up to 4.7 it all passed prime etc untill i come to restart the pc the following morning or so (cold starts) with bsods.
last time i throught i nailed it but it wasn't to be .
the good news now i have seem to found the problem out.it turn out to be my ssd .i changed over to my old ide drive reinstall windows and ran straight up to 4.7 the other day and so far not one bsod.prime ok temps are great and vcore well down.
the only down side is the speed of old drive (sata 2) well slow compare to the ssd.
just have to wait now for my replacement from crucial


----------



## noshibby

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Have you tried Windows Disk Management and see if you could possibly rebuild the array from there?


yeah it will make me format them as well


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Yeaahh! The Poll is gone! Thanks to *Chipp*!

And thanks to *munaim1* for pointing me to *Chipp*!












No problem bud, now thread looks 100% perfect.


----------



## Bigchrome

Strange that I encounter an issue, come here to post it, and almost the exact same thing is posted above me









I finally got some time to play around and stabilize 4.6ghz, took 1.4V to run LinX AVX but it finally did it. Switched off my pc and went to bed last night, came home from college today and fired it up and it repeatedly failed to get past the widows loading screen









I switched pll overvoltage back on and put pll voltage back to 1.8v and it got right back into windows.









Has anyone else encountered having a bulletproof (ish) overclock and have it not boot into windows after the pc spending some time off?

Edit:  I'm thinking something to do with C3/C6 states?

P.S. I'd love to be added as a memeber!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


hi all
just an update as some may know that i have been having trouble with my oc's lately when i managed to oc up to 4.7 it all passed prime etc untill i come to restart the pc the following morning or so (cold starts) with bsods.
last time i throught i nailed it but it wasn't to be .
the good news now i have seem to found the problem out.it turn out to be my ssd .i changed over to my old ide drive reinstall windows and ran straight up to 4.7 the other day and so far not one bsod.prime ok temps are great and vcore well down.
the only down side is the speed of old drive (sata 2) well slow compare to the ssd.
just have to wait now for my replacement from crucial











Damn.

Well, thank you for the update at least!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bigchrome*


Strange that I encounter an issue, come here to post it, and almost the exact same thing is posted above me









I finally got some time to play around and stabilize 4.6ghz, took 1.4V to run LinX AVX but it finally did it. Switched off my pc and went to bed last night, came home from college today and fired it up and it repeatedly failed to get past the widows loading screen









I switched pll overvoltage back on and put pll voltage back to 1.8v and it got right back into windows.









Has anyone else encountered having a bulletproof (ish) overclock and have it not boot into windows after the pc spending some time off?

Edit:  I'm thinking something to do with C3/C6 states?

P.S. I'd love to be added as a memeber!










Are you using an Offset voltage?

Either way, what do you have C3 and C6 set to?


----------



## Bigchrome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15255673*
> Damn.
> 
> Well, thank you for the update at least!
> 
> Are you using an Offset voltage?
> 
> Either way, what do you have C3 and C6 set to?


I'm using manual voltage with ultra high LLC. C3 and C6 are set to auto which worked before. As a test i dropped to my linx/prime multi hour stable 4.5ghz clock and put on prime, it crashed in less than a minute and then got to the bootscreen and hung when i turned it back on. Considering the possibility that i may have broken something now.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15257570*
> I'm using manual voltage with ultra high LLC. C3 and C6 are set to auto which worked before. As a test i dropped to my linx/prime multi hour stable 4.5ghz clock and put on prime, it crashed in less than a minute and then got to the bootscreen and hung when i turned it back on. Considering the possibility that i may have broken something now.


Oh crap!

Well, before I panic, can you post all of your settings?


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15252823*
> Strange that I encounter an issue, come here to post it, and almost the exact same thing is posted above me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got some time to play around and stabilize 4.6ghz, took 1.4V to run LinX AVX but it finally did it. Switched off my pc and went to bed last night, came home from college today and fired it up and it repeatedly failed to get past the widows loading screen
> 
> I switched pll overvoltage back on and put pll voltage back to 1.8v and it got right back into windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else encountered having a bulletproof (ish) overclock and have it not boot into windows after the pc spending some time off?
> 
> Edit: I'm thinking something to do with C3/C6 states?
> 
> P.S. I'd love to be added as a memeber!


1.8v is really high isn't it? my 4.7OC only takes 1.28v


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15257594*
> 1.8v is really high isn't it? my 4.7OC only takes 1.28v


That's the CPU PLL Voltage.







A core voltage of 1.8V would instantly fry the CPU (that is, if it's even possible to set it that high).


----------



## Bigchrome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15257586*
> Oh crap!
> 
> Well, before I panic, can you post all of your settings?


Sure thing! I'm in a lecture now so i'll have to wait a bit to post all my settings!

Ok, here they are:

Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 45/46
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled/Enabled
Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory

DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory

EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: T.probe
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Manual
1.42v
DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory

VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Auto
CPU C6 Report: Auto

To clarify; at 45 multi I never needed pll overvoltage before to be stable, now I need it just to boot.
46 without overvoltage won't boot, and with it will boot but fails prime almost instantly.
The only thing I'm not sure about there is turbo mode, I think I had it off at one point with my 4.5ghz stable setting, but having it on never stopped me booting anyway.


----------



## owcraftsman

@ Bigchrome I have a 2600k but At 4.6 & 100 BLK I only need *130%* CPU Current Capability: and have *Duty Control set to Extreme*. Try both and see how it goes. I also use offset voltage instead of manual but I would try the above 1st. You can see my settings in the link in my sig. I'm also wondering what memory you have and how you set it up.

In regards to your cold boot issue this was quit helpful to me as seen in post one of this thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
_Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I'll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.

First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), *enter UEFI BIOS -> go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function.* Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release._


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258027*
> Sure thing! I'm in a lecture now so i'll have to wait a bit to post all my settings!
> 
> Ok, here they are:


Whoa that was fast. Thank you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258027*
> Ai Tweaker
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 45/46
> Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled/Enabled
> Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
> 
> DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
> 
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: T.probe


I recommend Extreme for Duty Control. I don't know if it will help, but thankfully it won't hurt anything.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258027*
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Manual
> 1.42v


Whoa, this is a high core voltage for this overclock. However, can I assume you're trying to rule out vcore?

Also, 140% is safe. There's no good reason to lower it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258027*
> DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
> 
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Auto
> CPU C6 Report: Auto
> 
> To clarify; at 45 multi I never needed pll overvoltage before to be stable, now I need it just to boot.
> 46 without overvoltage won't boot, and with it will boot but fails prime almost instantly.
> The only thing I'm not sure about there is turbo mode, I think I had it off at one point with my 4.5ghz stable setting, but having it on never stopped me booting anyway.


Well, this is scary. Everything looks good to me right now. However, I suspect the memory, so I'll start with that (and I'll start simple for our benefit): which memory slots do you have your memory in right now?


----------



## Bigchrome

I used to use extreme for duty control but the PWMs were HOT and I found that it was still stable without!

That was how much Vcore I needed for LinX AVX. I used 1.375v set I think for 4.5ghz but 4.6ghz required 1.42 for certain, 1.38 BSOD 101'd straight away and 1.4 lasted 30 mins.

The memory is Gskill RipjawsX 8GB PC12800 9-9-9-24 and it's in slots *2+4* (the black ones I think). My heatsink obscures slot 1 so I've had it set up like this from day 1.

Got my 1155/6 hold-down kit from Swiftech last night and was looking forward to setting up watercooling today, starting to look like it'd be a waste of time now!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258668*
> I used to use extreme for duty control but the PWMs were HOT and I found that it was still stable without!


Whoa! I'm glad you discovered this! Perhaps I'm getting the same thing!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258668*
> That was how much Vcore I needed for LinX AVX. I used 1.375v set I think for 4.5ghz but 4.6ghz required 1.42 for certain, 1.38 BSOD 101'd straight away and 1.4 lasted 30 mins.


Damn. This sounds kind of depressing. I wonder if it's just a "bad" CPU (that is, it's not good enough for us).

Do you know if you still have time to return it? You can say it is "defective" without offering any more information other than "it just doesn't work properly... I borrowed a friend's 2500K and his works perfectly for me".







That way you can have a chance of getting a better overclocker.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258668*
> The memory is Gskill RipjawsX 8GB PC12800 9-9-9-24 and it's in slots *2+4* (the black ones I think). My heatsink obscures slot 1 so I've had it set up like this from day 1.


Damn. There goes that theory.

I was hoping that you had the memory in the black slots (you have them in the blue ones right now which is good) because that might have been a possible fix.


----------



## Bigchrome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15258697*
> Whoa! I'm glad you discovered this! Perhaps I'm getting the same thing!
> 
> Damn. This sounds kind of depressing. I wonder if it's just a "bad" CPU (that is, it's not good enough for us).
> 
> Do you know if you still have time to return it? You can say it is "defective" without offering any more information other than "it just doesn't work properly... I borrowed a friend's 2500K and his works perfectly for me".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That way you can have a chance of getting a better overclocker.
> 
> Damn. There goes that theory.
> 
> I was hoping that you had the memory in the black slots (you have them in the blue ones right now which is good) because that might have been a possible fix.


I was glad i did aswell! Just decided to throw a thermal probe in there to see what they were like and saw 55 degrees C+ on the heatsink









I would love to return the cpu because it's definitely a bad overclocker, but it would need to not work at stock or they would probably deny it. I've had it about 2-3 weeks only so it might be something to think about if it keeps erroring.

What worries me is that the settings were 99.9% stable and now won't even boot, that's a big change in a day! I'm thinking full cmos reset and start from scratch when I get home!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258791*
> I was glad i did aswell! Just decided to throw a thermal probe in there to see what they were like and saw 55 degrees C+ on the heatsink


Whoa. I don't know if that's good or bad, but it certainly doesn't sound good to me (although, I have no experience to draw from).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258791*
> I would love to return the cpu because it's definitely a bad overclocker, but it would need to not work at stock or they would probably deny it. I've had it about 2-3 weeks only so it might be something to think about if it keeps erroring.


From where did you buy it? I mean, will they only return it if they find that it's defective through their own testing?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258791*
> What worries me is that the settings were 99.9% stable and now won't even boot, that's a big change in a day! I'm thinking full cmos reset and start from scratch when I get home!


I guess that couldn't hurt. Although, you can try loading the Optimized Defaults first (F5) since that will be easier (no extra work trying to get the CMOS cleared).


----------



## Bigchrome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15258888*
> Whoa. I don't know if that's good or bad, but it certainly doesn't sound good to me (although, I have no experience to draw from).
> 
> From where did you buy it? I mean, will they only return it if they find that it's defective through their own testing?
> 
> I guess that couldn't hurt. Although, you can try loading the Optimized Defaults first (F5) since that will be easier (no extra work trying to get the CMOS cleared).


I think it's ok, but I can't know how much abuse the PWMs will stand up to so I want to be safe. I asked asus tech support and got one derp reply asking me what the temps were (after I told them) and then nothing else.

I bought it from Scan.co.uk, I reckon it'd be pretty lousy to return a chip just for being a bad overclocker but I'm still sorely tempted seeing as it's such a lemon.

I tried optimized defaults and couldn't boot afterwards but I only had about 5 mins to check this morning


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258935*
> I think it's ok, but I can't know how much abuse the PWMs will stand up to so I want to be safe. I asked asus tech support and got one derp reply asking me what the temps were (after I told them) and then nothing else.


Friggin' ASUS support...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15258935*
> I bought it from Scan.co.uk, I reckon it'd be pretty lousy to return a chip just for being a bad overclocker but I'm still sorely tempted seeing as it's such a lemon.
> 
> I tried optimized defaults and couldn't boot afterwards but I only had about 5 mins to check this morning


Before I bought my stuff, I told people here on OCN that I was going to buy my 2500K from Micro Center. Then I had a few different people recommend to me that if it turned out to be a bad overclocker, then I should return it claiming that it is defective so that I might have a chance of getting a better overclocker. It would be lousy, but it would work because Micro Center would just go "ok, here's your new one".

Anyway, now I see why you are ready to clear the CMOS.


----------



## RainMotorsports

I got myne from Microcenter. Not having much luck with it. 4.4 is easy stable really all you have to do is change the multiplier on myne but i changed a couple things tiny bit more vcore. 4.5 throw all the vcore and settings you want at it will crash in a minute under prime 95. Pretty much read the above settings here and been there done that.

Problem is there is really no such thing as a place getting the lower binned chips. Its is possible but if it was binned to be a 2500K... well. If intel did go through all the trouble to keep track of lower binned chips for shipping then could explain the awesome price.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15259793*
> I got myne from Microcenter. Not having much luck with it. 4.4 is easy stable really all you have to do is change the multiplier on myne but i changed a couple things tiny bit more vcore. 4.5 throw all the vcore and settings you want at it will crash in a minute under prime 95. Pretty much read the above settings here and been there done that.
> 
> Problem is there is really no such thing as a place getting the lower binned chips. Its is possible but if it was binned to be a 2500K... well. If intel did go through all the trouble to keep track of lower binned chips for shipping then could explain the awesome price.


I got mine from Micro Center and it's overclocking very well: 4.8 GHz, rock-solid stable, 1.392V to 1.400V under load.

So it really is just a gamble.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15259973*
> I got mine from Micro Center and it's overclocking very well: 4.8 GHz, rock-solid stable, 1.392V to 1.400V under load.
> 
> So it really is just a gamble.


Of course lol. I dont have time yet to really fiddle with myne and throw up settings versus results. I definitly want 4.5 because its a nicer number than 4.4 lol. But I will get around to it. Seems like there is atleast one super important transistor that doesnt like switching at 4.5 ghz or maybe its the whole lot who knows.

Hopefully my ivy bridge i7 next year will get me to the magic 5 just for kicks.


----------



## turrican9

*Bigchrome*, a P8Z68-V owner, *gab195* a P8P67 PRO owner and *CaPoX* a P8Z68-V PRO owner added to the Club

Welcome! 19 more members and we have 200 members in the owners list!


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p;15215479*
> Yep, I saw. I don't want to change anything else yet until the weekend passes. I don't want anymore variables. I know this probably has nothing to do with it, but it would make me reboot and I don't even want to do that. I want to run it until it crashes....or doesn't.


Hey Guys, I'm back. Just wanted to update you.

Last post, I had spoken with G.skill support and they gave me the settings to use for my ripjaws (F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL) that aren't technically on the VQL of asus, although g.skill says it should work.

Well after another bsod (and i'm running at stock speeds now), I removed 2 of the modules from slots 2 and 4 per g skill support and enabled xmp as it only works with one kit in it, and after about 12 hours it bsod.

I then took the other 2 modules and put them in 2 and 4 and removed the others from 1 and 3, got through most of the day, then while working on it capping some video sunday night, it happened again. I was using it and all of a sudden everything kinda locked, although I could move the mouse. I noticed the hard drive light was pegged, so I waited. After a few seconds it started blinking and stopped as whatever was going on finished, then I could move the windows around again and scroll on the webpage I was on...then BAM, bsod.

So I emailed G.Skill this and they are going to switch out my RAM with the F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL kit which is designed for z68 board (XMP certified ripjaws x series). Very nice of them. Very impressed with their support.

I sent them off last night, so I guess it will be late next week until I get them back and we'll see where I am. If BSODs continue, I guess the motherboard goes back.


----------



## turrican9

I never understood why I have those symptoms where sometimes Windows would boot with internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled at x50 + multipliers and suddenly If my system was turned OFF and ON again it needed Internal PLL enabled to boot Windows at those same multipliers.

Also, another funny thing is that my 2600K seemed to get away with lower Vcore in Prime95 Blend those times it would boot with Internal PLL Disabled at those higher multipliers. This lower Vcore also translated to lower multipliers. But suddenly after my system had been shut down it would need several notches higher Vcore.

This is with my ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0. In the end I just settled for a safe Vcore that I knew would be high enough, on a certain speed.

Anyone noticed the same symptoms?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *james_k_p*


Hey Guys, I'm back. Just wanted to update you.

Last post, I had spoken with G.skill support and they gave me the settings to use for my ripjaws (F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL) that aren't technically on the VQL of asus, although g.skill says it should work.

Well after another bsod (and i'm running at stock speeds now), I removed 2 of the modules from slots 2 and 4 per g skill support and enabled xmp as it only works with one kit in it, and after about 12 hours it bsod.

I then took the other 2 modules and put them in 2 and 4 and removed the others from 1 and 3, got through most of the day, then while working on it capping some video sunday night, it happened again. I was using it and all of a sudden everything kinda locked, although I could move the mouse. I noticed the hard drive light was pegged, so I waited. After a few seconds it started blinking and stopped as whatever was going on finished, then I could move the windows around again and scroll on the webpage I was on...then BAM, bsod.

So I emailed G.Skill this and they are going to switch out my RAM with the F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL kit which is designed for z68 board (XMP certified ripjaws x series). Very nice of them. Very impressed with their support.

I sent them off last night, so I guess it will be late next week until I get them back and we'll see where I am. If BSODs continue, I guess the motherboard goes back.


Hope all goes well for you







Be sure to let us know


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I never understood why I have those symptoms where sometimes Windows would boot with internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled at x50 + multipliers and suddenly If my system was turned OFF and ON again it needed Internal PLL enabled to boot Windows at those same multipliers.

Also, another funny thing is that my 2600K seemed to get away with lower Vcore in Prime95 Blend those times it would boot with Internal PLL Disabled at those higher multipliers. This lower Vcore also translated to lower multipliers. But suddenly after my system had been shut down it would need several notches higher Vcore.

This is with my ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0. In the end I just settled for a safe Vcore that I knew would be high enough, on a certain speed.

Anyone noticed the same symptoms?


Certainly wierd, is that with the new BIOS???


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


Certainly wierd, is that with the new BIOS???


That was with the 1850 bios. But the 2001 bios seems to require as much Vcore as the 1850 bios did those times I needed Internal PLL Enabled for x50 +.

Have not tested much with the 2001 bios yet.

Maybe this is some kind of PLL issue. Maybe I should try lowering PLL volts or something. I saw one guy running only 1.45v PLL on a P8P67 PRO.

Edit: Right now I booted Windows successfully at x50 with Internal PLL Disabled, using 2001 bios. Trying manual Vcore and PLL voltage at 1.45. Not experimentet much with this bios.

Edit 2: 4.8GHz HT ON seems harder to get Prime 95 Blend stable on 2001 bios VS 1850 Beta. It is failing on the same Vcore which was stable on 1850.


----------



## Eaglake

Wow! somehow I lost subscription to this club.
Anyways today I surfed the net went to Asus site and saw a BIOS update 2001 which should add compatibility with SB-E chips. So we will be able to use the new chips after all?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


Wow! somehow I lost subscription to this club.
Anyways today I surfed the net went to Asus site and saw a BIOS update 2001 which should add compatibility with IVY Bridge chips. So we will be able to use the new chips after all?


Fixed. SB-E is a different socket LGA 2011.


----------



## Bigchrome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15261495*
> I never understood why I have those symptoms where sometimes Windows would boot with internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled at x50 + multipliers and suddenly If my system was turned OFF and ON again it needed Internal PLL enabled to boot Windows at those same multipliers.
> 
> Also, another funny thing is that my 2600K seemed to get away with lower Vcore in Prime95 Blend those times it would boot with Internal PLL Disabled at those higher multipliers. This lower Vcore also translated to lower multipliers. But suddenly after my system had been shut down it would need several notches higher Vcore.
> 
> Anyone noticed the same symptoms?


These are the exact symptoms I noted a page back! I had been running 4600mhz bulletproof with pll overvoltage disabled and now I'm unable to boot at 4500 without it! Happened just by turning off and on again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15259030*
> Friggin' ASUS support...
> 
> Before I bought my stuff, I told people here on OCN that I was going to buy my 2500K from Micro Center. Then I had a few different people recommend to me that if it turned out to be a bad overclocker, then I should return it claiming that it is defective so that I might have a chance of getting a better overclocker. It would be lousy, but it would work because Micro Center would just go "ok, here's your new one".
> 
> Anyway, now I see why you are ready to clear the CMOS.


Tell me about it!

Ok so I did a cmos reset and found that the only setting to make an appreciable difference is PLL Overvoltage. Enabling it allowed me to boot at 45 multi again, and I ran 10 mins of LinX as a quick test. I reckon that having it enabled will mean I'll need even more voltage if I wanted 46 multi to work though.

One of my friends suggested the "9v battery trick" for my crappy cpu


----------



## paradoxum

helllo

so, is 1.27/8v overcock good at 4.7ghz? been running it for like a week now and it seems stable


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15267034*
> helllo
> 
> so, is 1.27/8v overcock good at 4.7ghz? been running it for like a week now and it seems stable


compare it with other's in the sandy stable club, link is in my sig


----------



## paradoxum

looks amazing to me.. most people seem to need 1.3v minimum
wonder how high I can clock it







? what is the max safe voltage I can try?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum;15267094*
> looks amazing to me.. most people seem to need 1.3v minimum
> wonder how high I can clock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? what is the max safe voltage I can try?


Have a little read at my last post in the thread lol









Hope that helps


----------



## thinkingbeyondthesquare

Hi Team

Proud owner of an overclocked Asus Z68V-Pro as per tag









Please add me to the group









Luvin it


----------



## RainMotorsports

Finally got 4.6 booted to a cursor lol. Think im pretty close to getting 4.5 truly stable.

Edit - or not damn. Flashed a bunch of test colors to the screen couldnt even post took a few tries to reset the cmos. Wonder what it didnt like lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bigchrome*


These are the exact symptoms I noted a page back! I had been running 4600mhz bulletproof with pll overvoltage disabled and now I'm unable to boot at 4500 without it! Happened just by turning off and on again.

Tell me about it!

Ok so I did a cmos reset and found that the only setting to make an appreciable difference is PLL Overvoltage. Enabling it allowed me to boot at 45 multi again, and I ran 10 mins of LinX as a quick test. I reckon that having it enabled will mean I'll need even more voltage if I wanted 46 multi to work though.

One of my friends suggested the "9v battery trick" for my crappy cpu










What is the "9v battery trick"?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paradoxum*


looks amazing to me.. most people seem to need 1.3v minimum
wonder how high I can clock it







? what is the max safe voltage I can try?


For 24/7 usage, about 1.425V. However, some people think that this is a slightly conservative figure and so some people are using closer to 1.5V 24/7.

What core voltage do you see right now in CPU-Z when you're running Prime95?


----------



## zambz

Hey guys, has anyone experienced one of the following symptoms with the P8Z68-V PRO board? These occur very intermittently here and are driving me crazy









As soon as you power on PC, screen is black, no POST. I can confirm the video card is giving out a signal because my monitor doesn't mention a lack of signal.
Just before Windows loads, when the cursor is blinking, it just blinks forever or the screen goes black at that point and the computer locks up
On the POST screen, keyboard is not detected (and we hear a beep) even though it's plugged in
Computer reboots itself just before Windows starts
I started thread http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post15258099 about this too.

But I thought I'd raise it in this thread with everyone's experience









Cheers
Zambz


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thinkingbeyondthesquare*


Hi Team

Proud owner of an overclocked Asus Z68V-Pro as per tag









Please add me to the group









Luvin it










Added! Welcome!


----------



## hmar

Me too, I would like to be part of this group.

I've tried to overclock my i7 2600k, but i don't get good results. My processor runs to hot with prime95 and voltages go as high as 1.56 V and 1.64 but with the settings below, my P8Z68 de luxe boots up with the multiplier on 51. Shall I make an inspection of state of the thermal compound paste, or is my I7 not a good overclocker ?

Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 43...51
Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
Memory Frequency: 1600

DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory

EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: auto
Offset Mode Sign : +
DRAM Voltage: 1.2V (1.5V -1.6V)

VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Disabled
CPU C6 Report: Disabled


----------



## TwoCables

Using Auto for a core voltage is the reason for the high voltage. The core voltage must be controlled manually, even when using the Offset voltage.

What VID does Real Temp 3.67 say you have? Look here:


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15278272*
> Using Auto for a core voltage is the reason for the high voltage. The core voltage must be controlled manually, even when using the Offset voltage.


I got this after 20 seconds,


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar;15279170*
> I got this after 20 seconds,


Ok, so your VID is 1.3761V. This is useful information that allows us to know what Offset to use in order to obtain the core voltage you want - especially when using an LLC of Ultra High.









So let's say that you want to try using 1.344V under full load with this overclock (which isn't a bad starting point for 4.5 GHz as you might even be able to use a lower core voltage than 1.344V). The difference between 1.3761 and 1.344 is 0.0321V, so that means you'd need to try an Offset of either -0.03V or -0.035V (round it both down _and up_ due to the 0.005V increments). So the Offset sign you need is the Minus sign instead of the Plus sign, so make sure you change it. If you use the Plus sign, then the voltage would become about 1.408V to 1.416V under load.

Go for it!


----------



## turrican9

Simple term = The VID you see on a certain speed + Offset, equal to the Vcore you get. But the load Vcore will of course depend on the LLC you choose.

Example: If you had a VID of 1.3611 at 4.5GHz and typed in + 0.020 Offset, you would get about 1.3811v Vcore under load... If LLC was at Ultra High. This will also differ according to different load.


----------



## RainMotorsports

I am glad we are on the topic. I think my current issue is voltage drop. I got 3.6 damn near booted last night but what I noticed under 4.5 load testing is the voltage is dropping way below where I want it.

At the moment the VID is 1.3661 and its manually set at 1.36 (this is just for 4.4 atm im folding right now). Load voltage is 1.336 to 1.344. Not bad and i cant remember wether I have the LLC to high or ultra high atm.

The thing was prime95 last night the voltage was dropping alot further. VRM frequency was at 350 to 370.

Dropping the PLL voltage has definitly been a success so far in the higher attempts.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15279391*
> I am glad we are on the topic. I think my current issue is voltage drop. I got 3.6 damn near booted last night but what I noticed under 4.5 load testing is the voltage is dropping way below where I want it.
> 
> At the moment the VID is 1.3661 and its manually set at 1.36 (this is just for 4.4 atm im folding right now). Load voltage is 1.336 to 1.344. Not bad and i cant remember wether I have the LLC to high or ultra high atm.
> 
> The thing was prime95 last night the voltage was dropping alot further. VRM frequency was at 350 to 370.
> 
> Dropping the PLL voltage has definitly been a success so far in the higher attempts.


What was your voltage during Prime95?


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15279410*
> What was your voltage during Prime95?


If I knew I would say. It was at like 2 this morning and im waiting on a long as F2H wu to complete at the moment.

I want to say it dropped around 1.32 from a manual setting of 1.39. With the PLL voltage drop it had been my most successful 4.5 so far. That is until 4.6 and a crash and then a bunch of funny colored screens later. Once again cant remember if the LLC was High or Ultra been running High most of the time.


----------



## lowirve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Break;14512961*
> Hi folks, just got a p8z68 v-pro with my new pc.
> 
> I've got a problem with incorrect RAM frequency, wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue...
> 
> My ram is 1600mhz but with 'optimised defaults' in bios, it sets to 1333mhz. If I go into the bios and set it and 1600mhz manually (or even use the xmp setting) it changes to 1600 no problem and cpu-z confirms this but it has the bizzare effect of locking my cpu frequency to a constant 3.7Ghz.
> 
> Not sure if this is normal behaviour


Sorry to bring this up again. But I met exactly the same problem with Break.

After setting Ram frequency to 1600 in bios (or even using the xmp setting), my cpu frequency is locked at 3.7Ghz even at idle. Besides, my cpu vcore is 1.3V in this setting, which is extremely high considering my cpu is not oced yet. I was told it might be because asus board is so "intelligent" that it would increase my vcore automatically to match 1600mhz. So I have to turn down the cpu vcore in bios manually to fix it. But I wonder if this is the reason, and there is any other method to fix this problem. Thanks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15279483*
> If I knew I would say. It was at like 2 this morning and im waiting on a long as F2H wu to complete at the moment.
> 
> I want to say it dropped around 1.32 from a manual setting of 1.39. With the PLL voltage drop it had been my most successful 4.5 so far. That is until 4.6 and a crash and then a bunch of funny colored screens later. Once again cant remember if the LLC was High or Ultra been running High most of the time.


Can you run Prime95 right now with CPU-Z open?


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15279643*
> Can you run Prime95 right now with CPU-Z open?


CPU-Z open voltage is set in bios to 1.350 manual but 1.360 in Ai, CPU-Z 1.368, Ai reads the same. Real Temp not under load has a VID of 1.2560.

CPU-Z 1.336 to 1.34 with Realtemp showing VID for 1.3661 and 1.3711

This has nothing todo with my settings for 4.5/4.6 though. I am trying to finish this work unit before i do anything today.

Rebooting to grab the settings i happen to have in for 4.4: LLC is high vrm is on auto at the moment since it wasnt really needing to be touched for 4.4.

Unless there is something to be gained here pretty pointless since this has nothing todo with last nights settings. Things like jacking the CPU current capability up happen for all that work.


----------



## TwoCables

Ok cool. When the WU is done, can you report what core voltage you see in CPU-Z with Prime95 running?


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15279791*
> Ok cool. When the WU is done, can you report what core voltage you see in CPU-Z with Prime95 running?


Yeah should be done in an hour or so. Big ass unit lol taking forever even at 4.4ghz.

I have an hour or two to mess with it today. Don't worry it wont take that long to crash it. I just felt like (while tired as all hell) if the voltage is dropping to 1.32 under prime95 at 4.5 that right there is my problem. But the PLL voltage seemed to help out with 4.6 more than anything before.

Ill let you know soon.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports;15279820*
> Yeah should be done in an hour or so. Big ass unit lol taking forever even at 4.4ghz.
> 
> I have an hour or two to mess with it today. Don't worry it wont take that long to crash it. I just felt like (while tired as all hell) if the voltage is dropping to 1.32 under prime95 at 4.5 that right there is my problem. But the PLL voltage seemed to help out with 4.6 more than anything before.
> 
> Ill let you know soon.


lol "big ass unit"

With an LLC of just High instead of Ultra High, I think that this much vDroop is to be expected.


----------



## chillidog

update:

from last post still no cold boots bsod's still on 4.7oc.i seem to nailed it
all running smooth and fast







vcore,temps are great


----------



## RainMotorsports

Ive started. Looks good so far. Set to 1.39 in bios CPU-Z at load is showing a solid 1.4 real temp vid is 1.3711. Was a dip to 1.392 now and then but that should be acceptable. Little higher than I want for 4.5 but trying to test stable and the ill back things down little by little.

Shots:
   

I messed up i had tried to save a new prime 95 image about 10 minutes in looks like i didnt.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


Ive started. Looks good so far. Set to 1.39 in bios CPU-Z at load is howing a solid 1.4 real temp vid is 1.3711. Was a dip to 1.392 now and then but that should be acceptable. Little higher than I want for 4.5 but trying to test stable and the ill back things down little by little.

Shots:
   

I messed up i had tried to save a new prime 95 image about 10 minutes in looks like i didnt.


Wow. No vDroop with Ultra High. That's not fair.







I get a little bit of vDroop with Ultra High.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Wow. No vDroop with Ultra High. That's not fair.







I get a little bit of vDroop with Ultra High.


Into the 8K tests now starting to see a little more 1.392 presence.


----------



## munaim1

*Rainmotorsport*

I would highly recommend setting the RAM to stock first before proceeding to overclock the cpu, or else you could probably get 124 error's that could infact relate to the RAM and you won't really be able to tell which is causing the instability, RAM or CPU.

Either set the Ai Tweaker to XMP and verifiy the settings are correct or you could set the RAM to it's stock settings manually.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


*Rainmotorsport*

I would highly recommend setting the RAM to stock first before proceeding to overclock the cpu, or else you could probably get 124 error's that could infact relate to the RAM and you won't really be able to tell which is causing the instability, RAM or CPU.

Either set the Ai Tweaker to XMP and verifiy the settings are correct or you could set the RAM to it's stock settings manually.










This.

You can copy all of the settings that you find in your copy of CPU-Z in this section of it (this is mine):


----------



## RainMotorsports

Well define stock. 1333 or the XMP profile which is 1600mhz. I actually didnt set it to XMP and didnt set it to 1600 because I thought you would say something about that lmao.

XMP-1600 800Mhz 9-9-9-24 41 2T 1.500v

I normally run at XMP wether its stock or 4.4.

8K is done into 10K. I am gonna let this go another 15 minutes. Have to goto work soon going to return it to 4.4 and leave it folding until tomorrow.

This is however the most stable so far. Main difference has once again been the PLL voltage. I am actually going to pop it to 46 in Ai and see if burns before i reset.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


Well define stock. 1333 or the XMP profile which is 1600mhz. I actually didnt set it to XMP and didnt set it to 1600 because I thought you would say something about that lmao.

XMP-1600 800Mhz 9-9-9-24 41 2T 1.500v

I normally run at XMP wether its stock or 4.4.

8K is done into 10K. I am gonna let this go another 15 minutes. Have to goto work soon going to return it to 4.4 and leave it folding until tomorrow.


To set the memory to stock, you can copy all of the settings that you find in your copy of CPU-Z in this section of it (this is mine):


----------



## RainMotorsports

Alright thanks for all the advice so far. 4.5 for 45 minutes without fail is the best so far. I dont feel like letting it run alone so resetting now. flipped 4.6 for a couple of minutes and 4.7 insta crashed. Figured id just check lol.

More tomorrow


----------



## Heat Miser

I just ran Intel Burn Test to see my temps.

Results:









I was watching CPU-Z, and my core speed only went up to 3512.1 MHz. Um........I thought it was supposed to boost up to 3.8 MHz. Can someone help me please?


----------



## fbmowner

Just got my p8 Z68 V-Pro in the other day! Still have a few more parts before i can get it all going!


----------



## WholeApple

Hello all...

Glad to be here, great forum.

Having an issue with the P8Z68 Deluxe. I have gotten it to over clock to 4.3Ghz overclock using the info from this forum and a Newegg video as I am new to the Sandy Brisge platform and the UEFI BIOS, otherwise I am old hat at this stuff.

Using an "alternate" OS so doing everything inside BIOS. I had it as I said once at 4.3 but it seems like every time I set the settings for an OC and save/restart, it simply loses it's settings and goes back to 3.4Ghz on reboot. Before I ever even get to an OS boot, the BIOS says 3.4.

Using a 2600K and 16GB of G-Skill 1866 RAM, with the latest (0706) and am quite simply a little stumped.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated, thanks.

Chris @ WholeApple


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WholeApple*


Hello all...

Glad to be here, great forum.

Having an issue with the P8Z68 Deluxe. I have gotten it to over clock to 4.3Ghz overclock using the info from this forum and a Newegg video as I am new to the Sandy Brisge platform and the UEFI BIOS, otherwise I am old hat at this stuff.

Using an "alternate" OS so doing everything inside BIOS. I had it as I said once at 4.3 but it seems like every time I set the settings for an OC and save/restart, it simply loses it's settings and goes back to 3.4Ghz on reboot. Before I ever even get to an OS boot, the BIOS says 3.4.

Using a 2600K and 16GB of G-Skill 1866 RAM, with the latest (0706) and am quite simply a little stumped.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated, thanks.

Chris @ WholeApple


Hey Chris! Welcome to Overclock.net!









What are all of your settings in Ai Tweaker (in the UEFI of course) right now?


----------



## Naked Snake

Hi guys im having a problem with my P8Z68-V Pro, sometimes while listening music in Winamp the sound stop 2 seconds like when hit the Pause button and then it starts again, i've read that it's a problem some people have but i did not read about anything to fix it :/ anyone knows about it or have the same issue? Thanks for any help.


----------



## alexman

Hey guys, I have a quick question regarding the P8P67 Pro:

Are the red USBs in the back capable of providing power (i.e. charging an iPod)? I'm asking this because I accidentally plugged in one of my external HDDs into one of the red USBs without realizing it -- kind of scared that it may have given it extra power than needed (FWIW, the external HDD gets its power from an electrical socket, not USB).

Thanks guys!


----------



## 0Amadeus0

Just put together my sig system with the p8Z68 V-Pro.
No pics yet as i've got to tidy up the wiring.

Is there a certain amount of time you should wait for everything to settle before overclocking? I've heard the TIM needs time to cure.


----------



## nekromantik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexman;15288995*
> Hey guys, I have a quick question regarding the P8P67 Pro:
> 
> Are the red USBs in the back capable of providing power (i.e. charging an iPod)? I'm asking this because I accidentally plugged in one of my external HDDs into one of the red USBs without realizing it -- kind of scared that it may have given it extra power than needed (FWIW, the external HDD gets its power from an electrical socket, not USB).
> 
> Thanks guys!


All USB sockets provide power. The different color ports are for USB 3 and USB 2


----------



## WholeApple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nekromantik*


All USB sockets provide power. The different color ports are for USB 3 and USB 2










Actually not quite accurate.

Blue= USB 3.0
Red= Powered (Higher Powered to charge iPad, etc.) USB 2.0
Black= USB 2.0

Actually was wondering, I read something about a hub hooked up causing issues, wonder if this could be the cause of my BIOS not holding its' settings?

Hmm the mystery goes on...

[email protected]


----------



## Arimis5226

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WholeApple*


Actually not quite accurate.
Actually was wondering, I read something about a hub hooked up causing issues, wonder if this could be the cause of my BIOS not holding its' settings?

Hmm the mystery goes on...

[email protected]


Hey Chris,
Have you verified your clock in windows using CPUZ? The Asus P8Z68-V Pro shows the stock clock settings for my 2600k. CPUZ in windows shows the actual clock. If you go into your advanced settings, AI Tweaker at the top, that should show your accurate target clock speed. I have only had issues with the BIOS not holding OC settings if windows failed to boot. Just out of curiousity, what version of the BIOS are you using?


----------



## combatflexo

I just used the auto OC in the Asus tweak ii within Windows and I was able to overclock to just under 4.5(4.496.x) with about 1.228V for the CPU. I wanted to know if anyone or if I should enabled the TPU switch on the mobo? its currently disabled. I'm fine with auto OC as my manual attempts caused a system freeze and a BSOD.


----------



## Arimis5226

I'm assuming you mean the Asus AI Suite II? I've heard of people having problems with this, and uninstalling AI Suite II and reinstalling straightened it out. I personally will use the AI Suite to make some quick adjustments, but I always change the voltage settings in the BIOS and save.


----------



## combatflexo

Yes, I was talking about the Asus AI Suite II. I haven't had any troubles with it so far and I think it's quite nice. This is all my firsts with OC'ing and a decent computer, so I'm glad I spent the extra money for once. My main concern was the TPU switch on mobo, but it looks like you can use either the TPU switch on the mobo or the Asus AI suite.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *combatflexo*


I just used the auto OC in the Asus tweak ii within Windows and I was able to overclock to just under 4.5(4.496.x) with about 1.228V for the CPU. I wanted to know if anyone or if I should enabled the TPU switch on the mobo? its currently disabled. I'm fine with auto OC as my manual attempts caused a system freeze and a BSOD.


enable it


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


enable it


Last i checked the tpu switch will just do another auto overclock. According to the user manual if you change settings after that it overides it. Basically stupid since there are 2 otherways to get it todo the same thing. TPU switch has been known to cause problems in the past and ASUS support has said to disable it. Up to you I have yet to mess with it.

In other news 8.5 hours in prime 95 so far at 4.5 Ghz.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


Last i checked the tpu switch will just do another auto overclock. According to the user manual if you change settings after that it overides it. Basically stupid since there are 2 otherways to get it todo the same thing. TPU switch has been known to cause problems in the past and ASUS support has said to disable it. Up to you I have yet to mess with it.

In other news 8.5 hours in prime 95 so far at 4.5 Ghz.


i had mine enabled since i built my rig in may and never had any trouble with it
my problems i was having was down to faulty ssd & part of windows being messed up in the end.but having said that i also questioned asus about tpu and the answer i got was to have enabled if oc over a certain oc speed.but this is asus support we are talking about as you don't get a straight answer from them anyway.

mine is enabled and stable at 4.7


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


mine is enabled and stable at 4.7


But did you change anything? If so its not really doing anything now.

Oh crap I found the best explanation for its existence:

Quote:



but actually the TPU (and EPU) switches are there for those unsure of how to use the BIOS, or, for those who arenâ€™t using a Windows OS.


I couldnt think of one until now. But yes if your not using windows you dont have Ai. It does keep you from having to use the efi. Interesting thought. Was kinda weird u had 3 ways todo exactly the same thing.

Toms just did a review on 4 different auto overclocking techs. All of them failed to do what they did manually. Asrock apparently got close at 4.6 ghz.


----------



## combatflexo

I read that toms article pretty good. There manual clocks where better then the auto clock, but I don't feel its significant enough for me to notice. They had the Asus up to 4.5 (I think) at 1.35V and I'm at 4.496.x with 1.228(maybe 1.28) so I'll take the slightly lower clock and voltage with auto. I still have to do some more tuning and may do some manual OC'ing after I run prime95 and check how the auto OC is doing.


----------



## RainMotorsports

My auto goes straight to 4.2 everytime. 4.4 is perfectly stable just flipping the multi on my chip.

Nothing wrong with settling for the Auto OC. Just watch out heard one guy had his voltage set to 1.5 using it. Keep an eye on it.

Got less than 2 hours left on my Prime 95 4.5 Ghz run


----------



## combatflexo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


My auto goes straight to 4.2 everytime. 4.4 is perfectly stable just flipping the multi on my chip.

Nothing wrong with settling for the Auto OC. Just watch out heard one guy had his voltage set to 1.5 using it. Keep an eye on it.

Got less than 2 hours left on my Prime 95 4.5 Ghz run


What will your total time be for your prime95 run?


----------



## Arimis5226

The AI suite II (from my experience) nearly always increases BCLK. Problem I had (using 4 slots, 16gb or ram) was that I could never get P95 stable using the auto-overclocking. I always ended up manually making changes (dramv and vccio), and before too long I was just manually doing the whole thing in BIOS. I'll use AI suite II to tweak initial voltage settings to check for stability, but after I get a good baseline to work with I start making changes in BIOS. Auto-OC just doesn't work for my rig. :/


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *combatflexo*


What will your total time be for your prime95 run?


I am just doing 12 hours. Doing more means I won't be here. Still some tuning todo so I might make a 24 hour run once i try and find the lowest voltage I can work with.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Well im done with my wait lol. Made the usual submissions to the usual clubs.

Here it is for the rest of you:
CPU-Z - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2044630

   

The cpu-z submission is after a reboot and slight voltage drop meant to get one before and messed up.

Off to work on lowering the voltages.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


Well im done with my wait lol. Made the usual submissions to the usual clubs.

Here it is for the rest of you:
CPU-Z - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2044630

   

The cpu-z submission is after a reboot and slight voltage drop meant to get one before and messed up.

Off to work on lowering the voltages.


at 4.5 and also using xmp your vcore is high at 1.38.

am at 4.7 using xmp ram voltage for mine is 1.60 my vcore is at 1.32 and the highest core temp at 67.

something is wrong somewhere


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


at 4.5 and also using xmp your vcore is high at 1.38.

am at 4.7 using xmp ram voltage for mine is 1.6 my vcore is at 1.32 and the highest core temp at 67.

something is wrong somewhere


1 i set the vcore to whatever I wanted it to be. Being high doesnt make it wrong just higher temps, less lifespan. 2 I am currently as of this moment running 1.37 and will drop it down even further tomorrow.

As far as ram goes 1.6 is out of spec 1.5 is normal though you can buy 1.65 ram all day long its just not XMP spec last i checked.

One chip might do 4.8 @ 1.35 and the next one might not. Every chip will clock differently and require different voltages. I have a turd and while it might be stable at 1.35 I am testing top down not the other way.

If i throw 1.4 at it and up the vrm and anything else you would like me todo 4.6 doesnt boot at all. Once again the transistors have variances in manufacturing. Your only as good as the weakest ones being used. I might get 4.6 worked out tweaking the pll some more but not alot of time in the day.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


As far as ram goes 1.6 is out of spec 1.5 is normal though you can buy 1.65 ram all day long its just not XMP spec last i checked.


this might help you


----------



## RainMotorsports

Just for you i waste some time. Failure to complete boot up and a quick BSOD later.

You cant hand someone settings for another processor sample. It just doesnt work like that. Unless of course that processor is of the same or higher quality.

Probably not even running the same bios which can affect things as well. I am on the ivy bridge bios 0902 havent felt like messing with the ami downgrade. As long as I have no issues dont really feel like messing about with doing it either.


----------



## crancko

Could you enter me into this club?

regards,

/crancko


----------



## chillidog

QUOTE:Just for you i waste some time. Failure to complete boot up and a quick BSOD later.

You cant hand someone settings for another processor sample. It just doesnt work like that. Unless of course that processor is of the same or higher quality.

Probably not even running the same bios which can affect things as well. I am on the ivy bridge bios 0902 havent felt like messing with the ami downgrade. As long as I have no issues dont really feel like messing about with doing it either.

well someone got out of the bed the wrong way
i throught i try to give some help, but it seem you don't need it, if so why post?

for your info am using the same bios 0902,same cpu in fact almost the same set up as you apart from the ram


----------



## RainMotorsports

Its just that I already explained no matter what is set here at the moment without exploring every PLL voltage. It will not boot at 4.6. I could write a guarantee at those settings this chip was not going to work on those settings.

I am just hoping that you understand that every chip that comes off every wafer even if it ends up being binned for 2500K's after testing will not necessarily perform the same. Even on the best level other variables come into effect. I might actually have a single pin in the socket not making good contact.

That is why I post. I took the time to stop [email protected] and punch in the settings even though I knew it would fail. I actually put forth the effort to show you what I knew to be true for this chip in my machine under the variables of my board sample and power supply. I believe we are having a discussion not an argument.


----------



## TwoCables

*chillidog:* RainMotorsports is correct. Unlike previous generation Intel CPUs, the overclocking potential is now mostly dependent on the physical CPU that you end up with. With previous generation CPUs, it was mostly dependent on how good the motherboard is. It's still important to have a good motherboard, but even the best of the best motherboards, cooling, memory and PSUs can end up being completely meaningless if the physical CPU someone ends up with is a "turd" as RainMotorsports put it.

You can build 100 different perfectly-identical 2500K air-cooled systems and end up with 100 completely different overclocking potentials. You would have a range where some might easily achieve 5GHz with this air cooling while others might not even be able to exceed 4.3 to 4.4GHz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0Amadeus0;15289426*
> Just put together my sig system with the p8Z68 V-Pro.
> No pics yet as i've got to tidy up the wiring.
> 
> Is there a certain amount of time you should wait for everything to settle before overclocking? I've heard the TIM needs time to cure.


It can depend: which TIM are you going to use?


----------



## n0ypi

quick question.. can the P8Z68-V Pro fit an SLI Asus GTX 570 DCII??


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15279272*
> Ok, so your VID is 1.3761V. This is useful information that allows us to know what Offset to use in order to obtain the core voltage you want - especially when using an LLC of Ultra High.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So let's say that you want to try using 1.344V under full load with this overclock (which isn't a bad starting point for 4.5 GHz as you might even be able to use a lower core voltage than 1.344V). The difference between 1.3761 and 1.344 is 0.0321V, so that means you'd need to try an Offset of either -0.03V or -0.035V (round it both down _and up_ due to the 0.005V increments). So the Offset sign you need is the Minus sign instead of the Plus sign, so make sure you change it. If you use the Plus sign, then the voltage would become about 1.408V to 1.416V under load.
> 
> Go for it!


I got a stable 4.5G with -0.020V, but I really should do something to these temps, RainMotorsTemps are 20° lower on the same conditions... Has someone an advise, I have a big cooler: Scyte Rasetsu...


----------



## alexman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WholeApple;15290199*
> Actually not quite accurate.
> 
> Blue= USB 3.0
> Red= Powered (Higher Powered to charge iPad, etc.) USB 2.0
> Black= USB 2.0
> 
> Actually was wondering, I read something about a hub hooked up causing issues, wonder if this could be the cause of my BIOS not holding its' settings?
> 
> Hmm the mystery goes on...
> 
> [email protected]


Happen to know if the red will provide power to something that doesn't require any additional power (i.e. an external HDD)?

Now I'm a bit worried!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar;15300720*
> I got a stable 4.5G with -0.020V, but I really should do something to these temps, RainMotorsTemps are 20° lower on the same conditions... Has someone an advise, I have a big cooler: Scyte Rasetsu...


The high temps might be caused by having HyperThreading enabled. So I recommend disabling it, but only if you don't need it. I'm not sure how much of a difference in temps this will make, but having HyperThreading enabled is known to raise temps.

Also, there are many many many other factors that affect the temperature. However, let's disable HT first.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexman;15300721*
> Happen to know if the red will provide power to something that doesn't require any additional power (i.e. an external HDD)?
> 
> Now I'm a bit worried!


There's no reason to worry about it.







I mean, the manual doesn't say anything about being cautious or anything like that.


----------



## RainMotorsports

When i call my cpu a turd im just hating on it. I had some high hopes but even on a great water cooler i cant run the voltage it would probably take to even approach 5 ghz with this sample. I would like to have been close. I came in expecting 4.5 at a minimum but on air it seems like im bumping against my limit. an extra 50mv doesnt even buy me a boot on 4.6.


----------



## roamin

im having an issue with my deluxe board. its boots and wont go past q code 06

anyone have any knowledge on what thats caused by?

i run a ocz vertex 3, gtx 580 sli, 2600k, corsair dominator gt's 8gb, 3 WD 7200rpm black.

tried disconnecting all devices besides the sli and cpu as there all watercooled. but tried different ddr sticks. removed all hard drives and so on.

problem i have is i cant even access bios. wont show the bios screen. also tried bios reset.

cheers


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin;15302378*
> im having an issue with my deluxe board. its boots and wont go past q code 06
> 
> anyone have any knowledge on what thats caused by?
> 
> i run a ocz vertex 3, gtx 580 sli, 2600k, corsair dominator gt's 8gb, 3 WD 7200rpm black.
> 
> tried disconnecting all devices besides the sli and cpu as there all watercooled. but tried different ddr sticks. removed all hard drives and so on.
> 
> problem i have is i cant even access bios. wont show the bios screen. also tried bios reset.
> 
> cheers


have you checked the user manual? what does it say about error code 06:thinking:


----------



## 0Amadeus0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15299408*
> It can depend: which TIM are you going to use?


I'm using the paste that came with my NH-D14 which is NT-H1.
Have to say they're rather generous with the amount they give you too.
Last time I bought some Arctic silver to fix my xbox it was a quarter of the amount.









Actually looking at the specs for the paste now it says
Quote:


> NT-H1 reaches its full performance extremely fast and doesn't require a longer "burn-in" time.


Think this is on the level or worth giving a system a few days to settle in?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15303053*
> have you checked the user manual? what does it say about error code 06:thinking:


It says "Microcode loading". I don't know what it means, but I know that "microcode" is very much related to the CPU. Like when I had an EVGA 680i SLI, the only way I could upgrade from an E2180 to an E8400 was by getting the latest BIOS for the sake of the new microcode for the 45nm CPUs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0Amadeus0;15303099*
> I'm using the paste that came with my NH-D14 which is NT-H1.
> Have to say they're rather generous with the amount they give you too.
> Last time I bought some Arctic silver to fix my xbox it was a quarter of the amount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually looking at the specs for the paste now it says
> 
> Think this is on the level or worth giving a system a few days to settle in?


If they say no burn-in time, then I'll believe it. Noctua has a major reputation to protect and maintain.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15303154*
> If they say no burn-in time, then I'll believe it. Noctua has a major reputation to protect and maintain.


Hell on the better end whats 1C after break in. I might worry if the difference between boot 1 and done is more than a couple. But not really.


----------



## 0Amadeus0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


If they say no burn-in time, then I'll believe it. Noctua has a major reputation to protect and maintain.










Cheers for that. I'll try the auto overclock first to get a taste then read up on how to manually do it for a more refined clock.


----------



## crazydj

Hey guys! I just build my i5 rig. My specs are below. The thing is that, the computer boots up normally on my spare 8500gt but i get 1 long and 3 short beeps when i use my gtx460. What gives? Not enough power?


----------



## iXVappzz649Xi

has the voltage bug been fixed ?


----------



## crazydj

I went to get a 650W PSU but i still get the same damn beeping errors! Help me guys!


----------



## roamin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


have you checked the user manual? what does it say about error code 06










 yeah i did. did you read my post? i asked what causes the issue, try reading what i wrote, have a think about it, than reply. dont just think ppl are lazy and stupid. your biggest mistake right there. ahhhhh i love it. clearly you think i am silly. but it seems you may be the silly one as your quick to judge something that you have no idea about.

try sitting back and learning.

what happened was i went into my bios and changed the boot priority and thats it. reboot. pc is now dead and stuck on error code 06. after many hours of finding nothing, i some how found this forum page/post with the same issue. here!

this is the last post in the thread. my exact problem.

Quote:



I had the exact same thing happen with my P8P67 Deluxe. Changed boot sequence and got the Q-Code 06.

On boot would not read DVD so could not use Windows installation disk.

After trying everything under the sun (and wasting a lot of time) I RMA'd the board.

Have been fine for a couple of months with new board. Have even changed boot sequence without bricking the machine.

. There are other posts around, including a YouTube video showing the same problem, so suggest you just contact Asus for replacement.

Good Luck


so i fixed it buy buying a ud4 while the asus gets RMA.


----------



## no1Joeno1

Got a P8Z68 Pro, can't change multiplier in Tweak AI. -.-

edit: Am I being blind?


----------



## crazydj

Hey guys

I have an urgent problem. I bought a new motherboard, CPU, RAM and PSU. The rest of the other parts are upgraded. To cut the long story short, i cannot even POST after i built the PC. I get 1 long, 3 short beeps, indicating a video error. I've tried 2 different graphics cards, a GTX460 and a 8500gt. Basically, i cannot get both of them to work or POST on my new rig and get the 1 long, 3 short beeps. I did manage to get only the 8500gt to work, but only 5% of the time. It had to be slightly slanted in the slot, with one part of the teeth fully inserted into the pci-e slow and another part to be slightly jutting out. Both the cards and proven and tested to work.

The specs are listed below:
*CPU: Intel i5 2500k
*Mobo: Asus P8P67
*RAM: 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (4GB x 2)
HDD: Segate 500GB SATA2
*PSU: Andyson 650W F650 80 Plus
GFX: ASUS ENGTX460 DirectCU TOP/2DI/1GD5

Note that those marked with an '*" are new. The rest are old but in complete working condition. I suspect the motherboard is faulty. Perhaps the pci-e slot? Need urgent help. Thanks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


Hey guys

I have an urgent problem. I bought a new motherboard, CPU, RAM and PSU. The rest of the other parts are upgraded. To cut the long story short, i cannot even POST after i built the PC. I get 1 long, 3 short beeps, indicating a video error. I've tried 2 different graphics cards, a GTX460 and a 8500gt. Basically, i cannot get both of them to work or POST on my new rig and get the 1 long, 3 short beeps. I did manage to get only the 8500gt to work, but only 5% of the time. It had to be slightly slanted in the slot, with one part of the teeth fully inserted into the pci-e slow and another part to be slightly jutting out. Both the cards and proven and tested to work.

The specs are listed below:
*CPU: Intel i5 2500k
*Mobo: Asus P8P67
*RAM: 8GB G-Skill RipJawX 1600MHz CL9 (4GB x 2)
HDD: Segate 500GB SATA2
*PSU: Andyson 650W F650 80 Plus
GFX: ASUS ENGTX460 DirectCU TOP/2DI/1GD5

Note that those marked with an '*" are new. The rest are old but in complete working condition. I suspect the motherboard is faulty. Perhaps the pci-e slot? Need urgent help. Thanks.


Unfortunately, I don't know. However, I do know that you had an HX520 which is more than enough and is also superior to this current PSU. I wouldn't overclock with that 650W unit at all.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WholeApple*


Actually not quite accurate.

Blue= USB 3.0
Red= Powered (Higher Powered to charge iPad, etc.) USB 2.0
Black= USB 2.0

Actually was wondering, I read something about a hub hooked up causing issues, wonder if this could be the cause of my BIOS not holding its' settings?

Hmm the mystery goes on...

[email protected]


So for USB 2.0 2.5" external drives should we connect them to the red ports or the black ports? Does it matter even though the red ones are higher powered?

In my motherboard's BIOS settings, there are three USB settings that can be changed.

1.) USB Legacy Support
2.) USB 3.0 Legacy Support
3.) EHCI Hand-off

I'm at Windows 7 x64, do I need to disable them all and help with boot times?

Would keeping the USB/USB 3.0 Legacy Support enabled still use the driver installed in Windows 7 or will it override and use the built-in USB drivers in the motherboard?

How about EHCI Hand-off?


----------



## gtsteviiee

I don't get this, what does PLL do? I set mine to 1.45v is that okay?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*


I don't get this, what does PLL do? I set mine to 1.45v is that okay?


I don't know, but yeah that's ok as long as it's stable.







After all, instability sucks.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Alright! thanks!


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*


I don't get this, what does PLL do? I set mine to 1.45v is that okay?


The PLL is what actually regulates the bclk or in the past the front side bus. Why dropping its voltage in the case of sandy bridge helps. Who freaking knows.


----------



## danttruong

here's my aus p8p67 pro


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *danttruong*


here's my aus p8p67 pro


hey dan, nice hardware! curious though, do you see much benefit having your PSU fan-up? no sarcasm intended...just seems like the PSU isn't getting any cool air the way you have it.

here's my P8P67 Pro. made some changes to it...among other things...

















i painted all the blue and white bits black, and dunked the heatsinks in Drano to get the natural aluminum back. i know...odd...could have just bought a different mobo. but i didn't


----------



## hertz9753

Antec 300 cases don't have vents in the bottom of the case.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hertz9753*


Antec 300 cases don't have vents in the bottom of the case.


ahh...well, neither do Lian Li A05NB's...didn't stop me from making some vents


----------



## danttruong

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PB4UGO*


hey dan, nice hardware! curious though, do you see much benefit having your PSU fan-up? no sarcasm intended...just seems like the PSU isn't getting any cool air the way you have it.

here's my P8P67 Pro. made some changes to it...among other things...

















i painted all the blue and white bits black, and dunked the heatsinks in Drano to get the natural aluminum back. i know...odd...could have just bought a different mobo. but i didn't










if i had psu faced down, i have to cut a hole on the bottom since there's no clearance between psu and case. I have 2 fans in front of the panel & one fan on side panel as intake fans so there should be enough cold air. My 2 graphic cards have exhaust air blowing out to the back so there shouldn't be a whole lot of exhaust air inside the case.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *danttruong*


if i had psu faced down, i have to cut a hole on the bottom since there's no clearance between psu and case. I have 2 fans in front of the panel & one fan on side panel as intake fans so there should be enough cold air. My 2 graphic cards have exhaust air blowing out to the back so there shouldn't be a whole lot of exhaust air inside the case.


fair'nuff! thanks for clarifying.


----------



## crazydj

I replaced my mobo at the shop i got it from. It now works fine. But the weird thing is that, why whenever i turn it on, my rig turns off, the on again and loads normally.

I turn it on.
It turns on.
It turns off by itself.
It turns on again after 4 seconds.
Its POSTs and boots normally.

Is this normal?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


I replaced my mobo at the shop i got it from. It now works fine. But the weird thing is that, why whenever i turn it on, my rig turns off, the on again and loads normally.

I turn it on.
It turns on.
It turns off by itself.
It turns on again after 4 seconds.
Its POSTs and boots normally.

Is this normal?


It's normal if it loads new settings you change in the BIOS. After some restarts, it will just turn on and proceed to Windows without turning off by itself. At least that's what happened to mine. Also, when you update BIOS, it will do the same weird behavior.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


I replaced my mobo at the shop i got it from. It now works fine. But the weird thing is that, why whenever i turn it on, my rig turns off, the on again and loads normally.

I turn it on.
It turns on.
It turns off by itself.
It turns on again after 4 seconds.
Its POSTs and boots normally.

Is this normal?


Has it done this more than just a few times in a row?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15315739*
> I replaced my mobo at the shop i got it from. It now works fine. But the weird thing is that, why whenever i turn it on, my rig turns off, the on again and loads normally.
> 
> I turn it on.
> It turns on.
> It turns off by itself.
> It turns on again after 4 seconds.
> Its POSTs and boots normally.
> 
> Is this normal?


This is also posted in the first post of this Club.

Double Boot at Post Fix:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* View Post
> Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I'll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.
> 
> First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
> From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.


----------



## turrican9

Added the following:

*Sc4r3d*, P8P67 Deluxe Owner
*hmar*, P8Z68 Deluxe Owner
*crancko*, P8Z68 Deluxe Owner
*imh073p*, P8P67 Vanilla Owner
*PB4UGO*, P8P67 PRO Owner

Welcome!


----------



## kevindd992002

Please add me as well


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15316608*
> Please add me as well


You've been added as a P8Z68-V owner, according to your system specs. Welcome!


----------



## crazydj

I need help!

When i try to install Win 7 on this rig, i get the error msg "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. the selected disk has an MBR partition table. On EFI systems, windows can only be installed on GPT disks"

Is this something to do with the BIOS settings?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15316696*
> I need help!
> 
> When i try to install Win 7 on this rig, i get the error msg "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. the selected disk has an MBR partition table. On EFI systems, windows can only be installed on GPT disks"
> 
> Is this something to do with the BIOS settings?


I think I recommended this before, but if I did and if it didn't work, then I apologize.

When you get here, click "Drive options (advanced)"
You will see this. With the correct drive selected, click these buttons in this order: "Delete", "New", "Format", "Next".
If this doesn't work, then I have one more thing to try.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15316621*
> You've been added as a P8Z68-V owner, according to your system specs. Welcome!


Thanks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15316696*
> I need help!
> 
> When i try to install Win 7 on this rig, i get the error msg "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. the selected disk has an MBR partition table. On EFI systems, windows can only be installed on GPT disks"
> 
> Is this something to do with the BIOS settings?


In the boot order of your BIOS settings make sure the Optical drive WITHOUT the UEFI label in its icon is the 1st boot priority. In this way, you boot into normal BIOS mode and not UEFI installation mode.

The error you're getting is normal because you are booted into UEFI Win7 installation mode. I suspect you're installing Win7 x64 since this UEFI mode wouldn't be enabled for x86 installations. As for me, I purposely used UEFI mode with a GPT partition so "been there done that"


----------



## no1Joeno1

Can anyone please help me?

In the BIOS it says I need to change the multiplier in my OS.










And in my OS there is no option to do so.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *no1Joeno1;15317332*
> Can anyone please help me?
> 
> In the BIOS it says I need to change the multiplier in my OS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in my OS there is no option to do so.


When you select 'By All Cores' in bios, I think AI Suite II will allow it's overclocking utility to run and change multi. I don't think you can change it manually from AI Suite II though.

Just use bios to set multiplier.


----------



## no1Joeno1

Lol it was on by all cores. I just realised I could type a number into the multiplier box in the bios though lol, it was on auto before.

edit: When I had that intel speedstep thing enabled or what ever it was when I first got my mobo it let me. :s


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15315739*
> I replaced my mobo at the shop i got it from. It now works fine. But the weird thing is that, why whenever i turn it on, my rig turns off, the on again and loads normally.
> 
> I turn it on.
> It turns on.
> It turns off by itself.
> It turns on again after 4 seconds.
> Its POSTs and boots normally.
> 
> Is this normal?


From the Faqs on the ASUS site:

FAQs

When I boot up my system, ASUS logo screen always pops up twice. Is there a way to stop it from doing that?
Page Tools

Solution
Please go to the Boot menu under BIOS, manually set Option ROM Messages to "Keep Current".


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15314194*
> So for USB 2.0 2.5" external drives should we connect them to the red ports or the black ports? Does it matter even though the red ones are higher powered?
> 
> In my motherboard's BIOS settings, there are three USB settings that can be changed.
> 
> 1.) USB Legacy Support
> 2.) USB 3.0 Legacy Support
> 3.) EHCI Hand-off
> 
> I'm at Windows 7 x64, do I need to disable them all and help with boot times?
> 
> Would keeping the USB/USB 3.0 Legacy Support enabled still use the driver installed in Windows 7 or will it override and use the built-in USB drivers in the motherboard?
> 
> How about EHCI Hand-off?


Anyone can help me with my questions here?


----------



## neonraver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15318887*
> Anyone can help me with my questions here?


I'd like to know this too. I have 2 USB 2.0 external HDs plugged into random ports in the back and when I hit the first BIOS splash screen I have to wait until the hard drives the spin up before the second splash screen comes up, the computer beeps and windows starts loading. Sometimes it takes ages. I've checked my boot options and the USB HDs are both at the bottom so I can't see why the BIOS had to wait for them to spin up before windows will load. I only use them for backup but it's easier to have them plugged in the whole time.


----------



## no1Joeno1

P8Z68-V PRO

Proof: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2048014

CPU-Z says my RAM speed is 11-11-11-28, but the RAM I have is rated at 9-9-9-24, should I do something about that lol?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *no1Joeno1;15320536*
> P8Z68-V PRO
> 
> Proof: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2048014
> 
> CPU-Z says my RAM speed is 11-11-11-28, but the RAM I have is rated at 9-9-9-24, should I do something about that lol?










That's not right.
I think you should adjust timings yourself, cause at those speeds timings are too lose.


----------



## PB4UGO

thanks for adding me turrican!


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PB4UGO*


thanks for adding me turrican!


Haha when you get a chance add me as well I never got around to asking.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PB4UGO*


thanks for adding me turrican!


You're quite welcome









Quote:



Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*


Haha when you get a chance add me as well I never got around to asking.


Added!


----------



## crazydj

Hey guys!

When i run both CPUZ and Speccy, it reads that my clock speed on load is 4326.9Mhz @ x42, Bus speed @103Mhz. When not on load, its 1648.4Hmz @ x16.

I'm more worried about it on load. 4326.9Mhz, @ x42, is this normal? I did not do any overclocks of anything, but i did select performance in BIOS setup. That's about it.

My temperatures range from about 40C to 60C+, all while still in desktop, surfing the net, etc. Like 1 minute ago it was 40C and now its 55C. Then it will go down again later. I am using the stock cooler and i am very sure it was installed properly and everything.

Speccy reports 70C when i am playing Age of Empires online. When i close it, it goes down to 50+ in an almost instant. When i was in BIOS just now, it was 65C. I set all my fan speed to turbo instead of standard.

What's the reason for the high clock speed reported in CPUZ and Speccy, as well as the crazy temp changes?


----------



## ocman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


Hey guys!

When i run both CPUZ and Speccy, it reads that my clock speed on load is 4326.9Mhz @ x42, Bus speed @103Mhz. When not on load, its 1648.4Hmz @ x16.

I'm more worried about it on load. 4326.9Mhz, @ x42, is this normal? I did not do any overclocks of anything, but i did select performance in BIOS setup. That's about it.

My temperatures range from about 40C to 60C+, all while still in desktop, surfing the net, etc. Like 1 minute ago it was 40C and now its 55C. Then it will go down again later. I am using the stock cooler and i am very sure it was installed properly and everything.

Speccy reports 70C when i am playing Age of Empires online. When i close it, it goes down to 50+ in an almost instant. When i was in BIOS just now, it was 65C. I set all my fan speed to turbo instead of standard.

What's the reason for the high clock speed reported in CPUZ and Speccy, as well as the crazy temp changes?


Hi crazydj, it's been a long time... how are you doing?

As for your CPU temps, I would strongly suggest you to install an aftermarket cpu cooler instead of the stock one.









It should be normal to see the increases in cpu freq and temps in your case.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ocman*


Hi crazydj, it's been a long time... how are you doing?

As for your CPU temps, I would strongly suggest you to install an aftermarket cpu cooler instead of the stock one.









It should be normal to see the increases in cpu freq and temps in your case.











Hey ocman!

Yeah, i'm fine thanks! How about you?







I finally replced my C2D rig with an i5. My family has been bugging me again and again that the computer is slow.









Anyway, the story was, i initially put my CM Hyper212+ on my mobo. Then it couldn't work. After that, i replaced the mobo but used the stock cooler because i was lazy to go through all that trouble to put on the cooler, then if the board doesnt work, take it off again, you know.

So i tested it bare, it worked, then i installed everything in the case, and here i am lazy to remove everything and put the cooler back on.

Hmm, after setting all my fans to turbo mode in BIOS, i get promising temps. Just below 50C. But whats up with my high clock speeds?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


Hey guys!

When i run both CPUZ and Speccy, it reads that my clock speed on load is 4326.9Mhz @ x42, Bus speed @103Mhz. When not on load, its 1648.4Hmz @ x16.

I'm more worried about it on load. 4326.9Mhz, @ x42, is this normal? I did not do any overclocks of anything, but i did select performance in BIOS setup. That's about it.

My temperatures range from about 40C to 60C+, all while still in desktop, surfing the net, etc. Like 1 minute ago it was 40C and now its 55C. Then it will go down again later. I am using the stock cooler and i am very sure it was installed properly and everything.

Speccy reports 70C when i am playing Age of Empires online. When i close it, it goes down to 50+ in an almost instant. When i was in BIOS just now, it was 65C. I set all my fan speed to turbo instead of standard.

What's the reason for the high clock speed reported in CPUZ and Speccy, as well as the crazy temp changes?


Best to do manual overclock and keep BCLK at 100MHz. Read the second post of this Club for info on overclocking.

It is very easy. You just type in BCLK and multi. Make sure RAM is at it's rated speed and timings. Rest is mostly just finding the minimum stable Vcore on a certain speed. Use Prime95 Blend for stability testing.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Best to do manual overclock and keep BCLK at 100MHz. Read the second post of this Club for info on overclocking.

It is very easy. You just type in BCLK and multi. Make sure RAM is at it's rated speed and timings. Rest is mostly just finding the minimum stable Vcore on a certain speed. Use Prime95 Blend for stability testing.


The thing is i set everything to default in BIOS, except for the main BIOS screen where you choose the 3 options. I went to choose the mode on the farthest right. The one with the flames.

The thing is that, is my CPUZ and speccy lying or are my clock speeds really 4.4Ghz?


----------



## KCOTT

wow, a lot of info in this thread

going to read up, just built my first pc with the p8z68-v pro board


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15324541*
> The thing is i set everything to default in BIOS, except for the main BIOS screen where you choose the 3 options. I went to choose the mode on the farthest right. The one with the flames.
> 
> The thing is that, is my CPUZ and speccy lying or are my clock speeds really 4.4Ghz?


Yup. Its that 'Turbo' setting in the main menu of the BIOS. Haha. When i set it to the middle option, my clocks are @ 3.3Ghz but i can feel the slowness!

So when i get this ASUS thing to auto overclock for me, is it safe? Like is it stable and stuff like that, besides the temps? I now set the fans to 'turbo' and my CPU temps are between 55 and 65C when playing games without the aircon turned on. Safe?


----------



## redalert

You can add me to the list P8Z68-V PRO
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2048760

Just wondering if anyone has installed BIOS 801?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *no1Joeno1;15317332*
> Can anyone please help me?
> 
> In the BIOS it says I need to change the multiplier in my OS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in my OS there is no option to do so.


Many of the ASUS products and the ASUS manuals have poor English. So it is not saying that you have to adjust it in the OS, but it's just saying that you can if you want to.

However, I personally recommend uninstalling ASUS Ai Suite II. I have found it to be useless. :/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar;15318423*
> From the Faqs on the ASUS site:
> 
> FAQs
> 
> When I boot up my system, ASUS logo screen always pops up twice. Is there a way to stop it from doing that?
> Page Tools
> 
> Solution
> Please go to the Boot menu under BIOS, manually set Option ROM Messages to "Keep Current".


For me, I stopped it by disabling the Marvell controller in Advanced > Onboard Devices Configuration. I also disabled the JMB controller and I also disabled Full Screen Logo which is in the Boot tab.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *no1Joeno1;15320536*
> P8Z68-V PRO
> 
> Proof: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2048014
> 
> CPU-Z says my RAM speed is 11-11-11-28, but the RAM I have is rated at 9-9-9-24, should I do something about that lol?


I do recommend manually setting your memory. Here's the best way to find out what your best specs are that should be absolutely 100% stable:

Check this part of your copy of CPU-Z (this one is mine):










Also, if you have 2 sticks, then they have to be in the blue slots. That's why my screenshot is on Slot #2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15322258*
> Hey guys!
> 
> When i run both CPUZ and Speccy, it reads that my clock speed on load is 4326.9Mhz @ x42, Bus speed @103Mhz. When not on load, its 1648.4Hmz @ x16.
> 
> I'm more worried about it on load. 4326.9Mhz, @ x42, is this normal? I did not do any overclocks of anything, but i did select performance in BIOS setup. That's about it.
> 
> My temperatures range from about 40C to 60C+, all while still in desktop, surfing the net, etc. Like 1 minute ago it was 40C and now its 55C. Then it will go down again later. I am using the stock cooler and i am very sure it was installed properly and everything.
> 
> Speccy reports 70C when i am playing Age of Empires online. When i close it, it goes down to 50+ in an almost instant. When i was in BIOS just now, it was 65C. I set all my fan speed to turbo instead of standard.
> 
> What's the reason for the high clock speed reported in CPUZ and Speccy, as well as the crazy temp changes?


The reason for the higher speed is because you chose Performance in the UEFI. This is overclocking for novices (and for people who are not on Overclock.net).

The temps are because you're using the Stock cooling. Fortunately, these temps are very safe. Unfortunately, I have absolutely no clue whatsoever if these temps can be considered normal for stock cooling with this automatic overclock that your motherboard has achieved. Although if I were to guess, then I would say that it sounds to me like the stock cooler is loose. So check it: if you can wobble or wiggle it, then it's way too loose. If it feels kinda like it's welded to the board, then maybe these temps are normal after all. So just check it and see what you got.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15322645*
> Hey ocman!
> 
> Yeah, i'm fine thanks! How about you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally replced my C2D rig with an i5. My family has been bugging me again and again that the computer is slow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, the story was, i initially put my CM Hyper212+ on my mobo. Then it couldn't work. After that, i replaced the mobo but used the stock cooler because i was lazy to go through all that trouble to put on the cooler, then if the board doesnt work, take it off again, you know.
> 
> So i tested it bare, it worked, then i installed everything in the case, and here i am lazy to remove everything and put the cooler back on.
> 
> Hmm, after setting all my fans to turbo mode in BIOS, i get promising temps. Just below 50C. But whats up with my high clock speeds?


When you install the Hyper 212 Plus, you will have to apply extra Thermal Interface Material in between the heatpipes like this (that is, before you apply any more past in addition to this):

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5

So the idea is to fill these gaps between the pipes first. After that, you just apply paste to the CPU (or even to the heatsink - it's up to you) as normal because once you fill these gaps, it's like you have converted it into a flat-based heatsink, more or less. That means when you're done filling the gaps, you're free to continue on by applying paste to either the CPU or to the heatsink just as though it is a flat-based version.

If you don't do this, then your temps will be much higher than expected for the Hyper 212 Plus.


----------



## xquisit

My sale is pending on my CPU+Cooler/Mobo/Memory.

I'm picking up a second 470, and I'm buying a new PSU.

I'm moving over to intel, and don't know if I should buy a z68 board now or wait one month and wait for deals!!!!!!!!!

BTW, someone made a post saying you can't downgrade from ASUS BIOS, is this true?


----------



## thinkingbeyondthesquare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15326421*
> Yup. Its that 'Turbo' setting in the main menu of the BIOS. Haha. When i set it to the middle option, my clocks are @ 3.3Ghz but i can feel the slowness!
> 
> So when i get this ASUS thing to auto overclock for me, is it safe? Like is it stable and stuff like that, besides the temps? I now set the fans to 'turbo' and my CPU temps are between 55 and 65C when playing games without the aircon turned on. Safe?


Hiya

As long as it stays below 75c you should be fine, anything over that and a beefier heatsink/fan is in order.

The system has auto overclocked itself when you selected the performance option in the bios.

I have mine running at a 46x speed (4.6Ghz), with a beefed up fan/head sink.... running the processor flat out, the temps are usually between 63c and 72c depending on ambient temps.

Your system should be fine









Cheers


----------



## TwoCables

But exceeding 75°C is still safe. 75°C is not a limit of any kind, but I think I hear what you're saying...


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15327461*
> But exceeding 75°C is still safe. 75°C is not a limit of any kind, but I think I hear what you're saying...


my sig rig is as such: i have run my mobo, cpu, and everything else i have into the ground, and everything has had a coat of paint, has been heated beyond belief, and mishandled, mistreated, lapped, fried, wired backwards, surged, watered, spit on, fallen off a desk, and declared "gay" by someone on another forum. but hey, it's Cocaine...and it renders video in 2x real time, and cleans up nicely.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xquisit;15327139*
> BTW, someone made a post saying you can't downgrade from ASUS BIOS, is this true?


Well I read somewhere you can. *This is not recommended* he did BIOS update and he got power loss in middle of update, when power was back on he started up PC and he got back stock BIOS.
Again I don't suggest you doing that and If you do so and mess up your board *I'm not responsible.*


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15327835*
> Well I read somewhere you can. *This is not recommended* he did BIOS update and he got power loss in middle of update, when power was back on he started up PC and he got back stock BIOS.
> Again I don't suggest you doing that and If you do so and mess up your board *I'm not
> responsible.*


Thanks :0

The new question is:

Which board is right for me?

I plan on using 2-3 SSDs, 2-3 HDDs. 2 470s. i5-2500k + ivy bridge + 3.0 GPU on the future. Which mobo is best for me (which company, etc)?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15327835*
> Well I read somewhere you can. *This is not recommended* he did BIOS update and he got power loss in middle of update, when power was back on he started up PC and he got back stock BIOS.
> Again I don't suggest you doing that and If you do so and mess up your board *I'm not responsible.*


Did he use the ASUS CrashFree BIOS 3 utility?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xquisit;15327846*
> Thanks :0
> 
> The new question is:
> 
> Which board is right for me?
> 
> I plan on using 2-3 SSDs, 2-3 HDDs. 2 470s. i5-2500k + ivy bridge + 3.0 GPU on the future. Which mobo is best for me (which company, etc)?


Well I would suggest Asus (I am a big fan) a Z68 Chipset and a GEN3 mobo
maybe a this one http://uk.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68_DELUXEGEN3/#specifications

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15327873*
> Did he use the ASUS CrashFree BIOS 3 utility?


speaking the truth I'm not quite shure


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15327887*
> Well I would suggest Asus (I am a big fan) a Z68 Chipset and a GEN3 mobo
> maybe a this one http://uk.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68_DELUXEGEN3/#specifications
> 
> speaking the truth I'm not quite shure :thinking


Much appreciated, what's the difference between the Deluxe and Pro version of the Gen3 board? (if the pro comes in Gen3, Im not sure)


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15327105*
> 
> The reason for the higher speed is because you chose Performance in the UEFI. This is overclocking for novices (and for people who are not on Overclock.net).
> 
> The temps are because you're using the Stock cooling. Fortunately, these temps are very safe. Unfortunately, I have absolutely no clue whatsoever if these temps can be considered normal for stock cooling with this automatic overclock that your motherboard has achieved. Although if I were to guess, then I would say that it sounds to me like the stock cooler is loose. So check it: if you can wobble or wiggle it, then it's way too loose. If it feels kinda like it's welded to the board, then maybe these temps are normal after all. So just check it and see what you got.
> 
> When you install the Hyper 212 Plus, you will have to apply extra Thermal Interface Material in between the heatpipes like this (that is, before you apply any more past in addition to this):
> 
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5
> 
> So the idea is to fill these gaps between the pipes first. After that, you just apply paste to the CPU (or even to the heatsink - it's up to you) as normal because once you fill these gaps, it's like you have converted it into a flat-based heatsink, more or less. That means when you're done filling the gaps, you're free to continue on by applying paste to either the CPU or to the heatsink just as though it is a flat-based version.
> 
> If you don't do this, then your temps will be much higher than expected for the Hyper 212 Plus.


Yeah, i double checked it before i installed it in the case. It's stuck in there alright. Like what you said, welded in there.

Yeah, i know. Overclocking for novices, but i really don't have much time to deal this rig right now. Its not mine actually, shared by the rest of the family and they NEED it. I actually wasted 3 days of my life settling this rig. Anyway, when my sis was booting it up, she got one error msg saying overclocking failed and restarted it. So yeah, i reverted it back to the normal setting and my temps and clocks are 'normal' now.

I know about the CM Hyper 212+ and the heatpipe thing. Thanks for the reminder anyway. When i got it to start the first time on the faulty mobo, i glanced in BIOS and saw that the CPU temps was about 36C. With a dual fan config haha. Now its about, 45+ with the stock cooler? It seems pretty small for a cooler though. Too small.

Anyway, i was just wondering. Perhaps electronics in my country are expensive? My P8P67 + i5 2500k costs about USD $372 (SGD $470). Its like a shopping centre with many many shops all selling all these PC stuff. How much is it really in the US, including/excluding shipping?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15327899*
> Yeah, i double checked it before i installed it in the case. It's stuck in there alright. Like what you said, welded in there.


Oh good. I forgot to ask though: what's the approximate temperature in your room there? I mean if you don't a thermometer, then I guess my question becomes: is it cold, cool, comfortable, warm, or hot? It sounds to me like it's either warm or hot in your room right now (based on your temps with the stock cooling).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15327899*
> Yeah, i know. Overclocking for novices, but i really don't have much time to deal this rig right now. Its not mine actually, shared by the rest of the family and they NEED it. I actually wasted 3 days of my life settling this rig. Anyway, when my sis was booting it up, she got one error msg saying overclocking failed and restarted it. So yeah, i reverted it back to the normal setting and my temps and clocks are 'normal' now.
> 
> I know about the CM Hyper 212+ and the heatpipe thing. Thanks for the reminder anyway. When i got it to start the first time on the faulty mobo, i glanced in BIOS and saw that the CPU temps was about 36C. With a dual fan config haha. Now its about, 45+ with the stock cooler? It seems pretty small for a cooler though. Too small.


Yeah, but these temps are extremely safe - even those load temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15327899*
> Anyway, i was just wondering. Perhaps electronics in my country are expensive? My P8P67 + i5 2500k costs about USD $372 (SGD $470). Its like a shopping centre with many many shops all selling all these PC stuff. How much is it really in the US, including/excluding shipping?


If I use Newegg, then the cost comes to be approximately $370 USD before shipping. Not bad!


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15328024*
> Oh good. I forgot to ask though: what's the approximate temperature in your room there? I mean if you don't a thermometer, then I guess my question becomes: is it cold, cool, comfortable, warm, or hot? It sounds to me like it's either warm or hot in your room right now (based on your temps with the stock cooling).
> 
> Yeah, but these temps are extremely safe - even those load temps.
> 
> If I use Newegg, then the cost comes to be approximately $370 USD before shipping. Not bad!


Yeah, its hot here. Like burning hot. Its about 32C (90F) today, and its considered VERY CLOUDY. When i turn on the air conditioner to 18C, i get about 45-50C playing Black Ops using the BIOS auto OC thingy.

USD $370 excluding shipping? Not bad. I normally have to drive up to the congested town area or take my motorcycle. You know how crazy traffic can get. Anyway, shipping from newegg is for EVERYTHING? How much roughly it would cost for a full system build?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15328106*
> Yeah, its hot here. Like burning hot. Its about 32C (90F) today, and its considered VERY CLOUDY. When i turn on the air conditioner to 18C, i get about 45-50C playing Black Ops using the BIOS auto OC thingy.
> 
> USD $370 excluding shipping? Not bad. I normally have to drive up to the congested town area or take my motorcycle. You know how crazy traffic can get. Anyway, shipping from newegg is for EVERYTHING? How much roughly it would cost for a full system build?


I have no idea because I've never priced a Sandy Bridge rig on Newegg. Plus, you can find items that have free shipping, and you can find items that don't have free shipping. Some items have very expensive shipping while others have cheap shipping. So I can't estimate, but I think it's only because I lack the experience. Although, I do know that my _entire system_ (like.... everything, not just what you see in my sig rig) would cost me close to $2300 USD or more if I were to travel through time and buy it all at once brand new.

Anyway, how the heck do you stay cool when your AC isn't on? I'd be sitting in just my underwear with a big fan blowing on me in that kind of heat! Although, I have a ton of settled dust I'd have to be mindful of, so I'd have a small fan on its lowest setting.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xquisit;15327895*
> Much appreciated, what's the difference between the Deluxe and Pro version of the Gen3 board? (if the pro comes in Gen3, Im not sure)


Well there is V-Pro Gen3 Motherboard from Asus and the difference isn't that big actually. Some I/O port differences, design difference and the biggest I've noticed that V-Pro has IGPU connectors and Deluxe doesn't


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15328453*
> Well there is V-Pro Gen3 Motherboard from Asus and the difference isn't that big actually. Some I/O port differences, design difference and the biggest I've noticed that V-Pro has IGPU connectors and Deluxe doesn't


Hmm, what's an IPGU connector used for?

Design, huh? I wonder which one looks best


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xquisit;15328491*
> Hmm, what's an IPGU connector used for?
> 
> Design, huh? I wonder which one looks best


That's DVI/VGA ports. Which you could use if you don't have or have broken your GPU and use them instead.
From my point of view the Deluxe looks pretty sexy I really like design, color scheme on my Deluxe it makes me


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15328545*
> That's DVI/VGA ports. Which you could use if you don't have or have broken your GPU and use them instead.
> From my point of view the Deluxe looks pretty sexy I really like design, color scheme on my Deluxe it makes me


I'll check it out, thanks for pointing out the differences. +REP


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Good day ...

I am currently in the market for the Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard but would like to know the height of the mosfet heatsinks as i would like 2 get an aftermarket cooler ...

Will the Coolermaster hyper or the deep cool gamer storm fit ?? ...


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15328133*
> I have no idea because I've never priced a Sandy Bridge rig on Newegg. Plus, you can find items that have free shipping, and you can find items that don't have free shipping. Some items have very expensive shipping while others have cheap shipping. So I can't estimate, but I think it's only because I lack the experience. Although, I do know that my _entire system_ (like.... everything, not just what you see in my sig rig) would cost me close to $2300 USD or more if I were to travel through time and buy it all at once brand new.
> 
> Anyway, how the heck do you stay cool when your AC isn't on? I'd be sitting in just my underwear with a big fan blowing on me in that kind of heat! Although, I have a ton of settled dust I'd have to be mindful of, so I'd have a small fan on its lowest setting.


Physical and mental conditioning my friend. I can take cold and heat anyday.

Anyway, something serious happened. When i set back my 'Normal' settings (The Middle button) in EZMODE, and i played back ops, a few mins into the game, my screen froze, like it tore here and there and the sound was a loud buzzing/electrical noise. Like high voltage electricity sounds. This happened twice just now.

In the morning, when i played unknowingly in the "Performance" mode (The rightmost button selection in eazy BIOS mode), there was no problems. So just now after the second time that happened in black ops, i set it back to the "Performance" mode, i could play black ops just fine and dandy.

What gives? Something is unstable somewhere?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15328664*
> Physical and mental conditioning my friend. I can take cold and heat anyday.
> 
> Anyway, something serious happened. When i set back my 'Normal' settings (The Middle button) in EZMODE, and i played back ops, a few mins into the game, my screen froze, like it tore here and there and the sound was a loud buzzing/electrical noise. Like high voltage electricity sounds. This happened twice just now.
> 
> In the morning, when i played unknowingly in the "Performance" mode (The rightmost button selection in eazy BIOS mode), there was no problems. So just now after the second time that happened in black ops, i set it back to the "Performance" mode, i could play black ops just fine and dandy.
> 
> What gives? Something is unstable somewhere?


Whoa. I wonder if that Standard button is changing settings to something that is unstable... well, it has to be otherwise this wouldn't happen.

Have you ever clicked and applied the settings from that middle button before?


----------



## no1Joeno1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15327105*
> Many of the ASUS products and the ASUS manuals have poor English. So it is not saying that you have to adjust it in the OS, but it's just saying that you can if you want to.
> 
> However, I personally recommend uninstalling ASUS Ai Suite II. I have found it to be useless. :/
> 
> For me, I stopped it by disabling the Marvell controller in Advanced > Onboard Devices Configuration. I also disabled the JMB controller and I also disabled Full Screen Logo which is in the Boot tab.
> 
> I do recommend manually setting your memory. Here's the best way to find out what your best specs are that should be absolutely 100% stable:
> 
> Check this part of your copy of CPU-Z (this one is mine):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, if you have 2 sticks, then they have to be in the blue slots. That's why my screenshot is on Slot #2.
> 
> The reason for the higher speed is because you chose Performance in the UEFI. This is overclocking for novices (and for people who are not on Overclock.net).
> 
> The temps are because you're using the Stock cooling. Fortunately, these temps are very safe. Unfortunately, I have absolutely no clue whatsoever if these temps can be considered normal for stock cooling with this automatic overclock that your motherboard has achieved. Although if I were to guess, then I would say that it sounds to me like the stock cooler is loose. So check it: if you can wobble or wiggle it, then it's way too loose. If it feels kinda like it's welded to the board, then maybe these temps are normal after all. So just check it and see what you got.
> 
> When you install the Hyper 212 Plus, you will have to apply extra Thermal Interface Material in between the heatpipes like this (that is, before you apply any more past in addition to this):
> 
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5
> 
> So the idea is to fill these gaps between the pipes first. After that, you just apply paste to the CPU (or even to the heatsink - it's up to you) as normal because once you fill these gaps, it's like you have converted it into a flat-based heatsink, more or less. That means when you're done filling the gaps, you're free to continue on by applying paste to either the CPU or to the heatsink just as though it is a flat-based version.
> 
> If you don't do this, then your temps will be much higher than expected for the Hyper 212 Plus.


Thanks, I'll try changing it to that.









Also GPU-Z says my graphics card is in PCI 2.0 x8 mode LOL.

edit: Could it be because of my soundcard? (X-Fi Titanium HD)


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15328729*
> Whoa. I wonder if that Standard button is changing settings to something that is unstable... well, it has to be otherwise this wouldn't happen.
> 
> Have you ever clicked and applied the settings from that middle button before?


I never touched anything in the BIOS except for the fan speed for the CPU. I got the Black Ops hang/tesla coil sound when i was on the standard, middle button setting. PC was slower but temps were fine.

I basically installed everything in the performance mode, games, programs etc., using that setting and tested everything to be OK except for the much higher temps.

Optimised --> Programs load slower. Black Ops hang, screen froze like it tore, sound very loud from speakers as if i hear live high voltage electricity.
Performance --> Black Ops loads faster, stable. Programs load much faster. Bad temps.

Could it be a bad board or anything that is incompatible, like the RAM or something?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15328784*
> I never touched anything in the BIOS except for the fan speed for the CPU. I got the Black Ops hang/tesla coil sound when i was on the standard, middle button setting. PC was slower but temps were fine.
> 
> I basically installed everything in the performance mode, games such, using that setting and tested everything to be OK except for the much higher temps.
> 
> Optimised --> Programs load slower. Black Ops hang, screen froze like it tore, sound very loud from speakers as if i hear live high voltage electricity.
> Proformance --> Black Ops loads faster, stable. Programs load much faster. Bad temps.
> 
> Could it be a bad board or anything that is incompatible, like the RAM or something?


But was that the first and only time you clicked Standard? I mean has it always been set to that third button until just now?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redalert;15327018*
> You can add me to the list P8Z68-V PRO
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2048760
> 
> Just wondering if anyone has installed BIOS 801?


Added! Welcome


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15328807*
> But was that the first and only time you clicked Standard? I mean has it always been set to that third button until just now?


Yes. It has always been set on the third button. Basically, before i installed windows, i went to peek in BIOS and selected the third button.

I went to install everything, OS, games, programs etc in this setting.

Then when i saw the temps, and i asked you guys about it, then i set it back to the regular, optimised one, and i got that problems in black ops.

I went to set it back to the third button again, and black ops and everything else works fine, less the higher temps.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain;15328650*
> Good day ...
> 
> I am currently in the market for the Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard but would like to know the height of the mosfet heatsinks as i would like 2 get an aftermarket cooler ...
> 
> Will the Coolermaster hyper or the deep cool gamer storm fit ?? ...


I'm not sure on height on those heatsinks but CM 212+ you can definitely fit and DeepCool Gamer Storm I'm not 100% sure but it should also fit


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Thanks for the reply Eaglake ... =)


----------



## turrican9

I've tried Hyper 212+ in my P8P67 PRO and it fits nicely. P8P67 PRO has the same height on VRM heatsinks VS P8Z68-V PRO.

I think these boards will fit most/if not all known and popular coolers out there.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

i really hope that is true ... i would hate to purchase a cooler and have it not fit ... my country is not big on returns ...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain;15329035*
> i really hope that is true ... i would hate to purchase a cooler and have it not fit ... my country is not big on returns ...


Just buy the 212+ if you wanna be certain


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15329056*
> Just buy the 212+ if you wanna be certain


I have read that sleeve bearing fans should not be mounted in the horizontal position ... and I ordered the Silverstone Raven 02-E White ... so I was worried that the hyper would be a bad choice ...


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain;15329082*
> I have read that sleeve bearing fans should not be mounted in the horizontal position ... and I ordered the Silverstone Raven 02-E White ... so I was worried that the hyper would be a bad choice ...


That's not a bad choice, if you are worried about sleeve bearing get a SSO bearing or ball bearing fans to cool your CM 212+


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Which fan would u recommend ?? ...

I was looking at the hyper + Excalibur fan ... but that will be the same price as the deepcool gamer storm ... so I am not sure which path i should take


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain;15329245*
> Which fan would u recommend ?? ...
> 
> I was looking at the hyper + Excalibur fan ... but that will be the same price as the deepcool gamer storm ... so I am not sure which path i should take


I think this is more on personal preference.
I personally like something quiet and that has good cooling potential so I use Noctua 120mm fan and CM sickleflow


----------



## Emissary of Pain

We don't get noctua in our country ... at least not that i have found ...

Would a 98mm cooler (from back to front of fan) fit on the asus board or will it block memory slots ... it is about 20mm deeper than the hyper 212+ ...


----------



## turrican9

Have posted a Newegg ASUS Z68 presentation video in the first post of this Club





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTsEOIyqXtg&feature=player_detailpage[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## nekromantik

am i right in thinking you leave TPU and EPU switches off if I am going to OC?


----------



## kevindd992002

Do we need to enable usb legacy support, usb 3.0 legacy support, and ehci hand-off in the bios for a windows 7 OS?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekromantik;15330168*
> am i right in thinking you leave TPU and EPU switches off if I am going to OC?


I never touched those switches in my P8P67 PRO, and I can overclock. So I assume they are Off, and should be for overclocking.


----------



## Julez007

Hello everyone, I'm using a Netgear wireless n300 pci adapter (wn311b) and it's always putting about 15% load on my cpu. It's keeping my cpu hot and not allowing it to throttle down even on idle speeds. I have updated to the latest drivers and when i uninstall the drivers it throttles back down. Is this normal?


----------



## nekromantik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15330206*
> I never touched those switches in my P8P67 PRO, and I can overclock. So I assume they are Off, and should be for overclocking.


yeah i thought it might interfere with OC but was wondering if anyone had it on and could OC. I will leave mine off though.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15330188*
> Do we need to enable usb legacy support, usb 3.0 legacy support, and ehci hand-off in the bios for a windows 7 OS?


I never touched any settings regarding USB in the bios. They should be fine the way they are. ehci hand-off?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15328839*
> Yes. It has always been set on the third button. Basically, before i installed windows, i went to peek in BIOS and selected the third button.
> 
> I went to install everything, OS, games, programs etc in this setting.
> 
> Then when i saw the temps, and i asked you guys about it, then i set it back to the regular, optimised one, and i got that problems in black ops.
> 
> I went to set it back to the third button again, and black ops and everything else works fine, less the higher temps.


All the more reason to start overclocking manually.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15330188*
> Do we need to enable usb legacy support, usb 3.0 legacy support, and ehci hand-off in the bios for a windows 7 OS?


Toggle their settings back and forth to find out which ones you need for your system. It's almost the only way sometimes.


----------



## 179232

Anyone know if the P8Z68-V will support Ivy Bridge and PCI-e 3.0?


----------



## Doming0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15331745*
> Anyone know if the P8Z68-V will support Ivy Bridge and PCI-e 3.0?


The P8Z68-V already supports PCIe 3.0 via the 0901 Bios update and yes they will support IvyBridge processors.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15331745*
> Anyone know if the P8Z68-V will support Ivy Bridge and PCI-e 3.0?


It'll support Ivy through a BIOS update (already been released I believe) however until the GEN3 Asus mobo's are available, no PCI-E 3.0 for Asus as of yet.

Here check this out: http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/PCIe3_Ready/


----------



## Doming0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;15331803*
> It'll support Ivy through a BIOS update (already been released I believe) however until the GEN3 Asus mobo's are available, no PCI-E 3.0 for Asus as of yet.
> 
> Here check this out: http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/PCIe3_Ready/


I could have sworn I saw PCI-E 3.0 support in one of the bios updates for the P8Z68-V... unless something changed.

Sry for the bad info.


----------



## 179232

Should I upgrade to the new BIOS right now then? I am using the rig below.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;15331959*
> Should I upgrade to the new BIOS right now then? I am using the rig below.


You don't have to if the one you're using now is working fine.

I always update when a new bios comes out. But there is a saying - Don't fix it if it ain't broke.

Strictly, you will only need it for Ivy-Bridge.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doming0;15331906*
> I could have sworn I saw PCI-E 3.0 support in one of the bios updates for the P8Z68-V... unless something changed.
> 
> Sry for the bad info.


It's something to do with PLX chipset implementation in the new GEN3 mobo's, im still learning about Ivy so maybe this'll help:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/1137173-sandy-bridge-e-ivy-bridge-discussion.html#post15235826


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*


We don't get noctua in our country ... at least not that i have found ...

Would a 98mm cooler (from back to front of fan) fit on the asus board or will it block memory slots ... it is about 20mm deeper than the hyper 212+ ...


I don't know how fan is mounted to CM212+ (maybe someone could help out) but if it's something similar to my mounting you can put the fan upwards so you don't have a clearance issues.


----------



## turrican9

Added support for the following motherboards:

*ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 Home (ftp) - ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 Home (ftp)
ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 Home (ftp)*


----------



## combatflexo

The stress test is underway using Asus AI Suite II auto tuner. 4.53 not to bad max temps on air cooling are 61 degrees one hour in. Would a 3-6 run of Prime95 be fine, or should I do the 12 hour run? I just don't want to leave it running the last 6 hours while I'm sleeping.

OH yeah, can I join your club?


----------



## crazydj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


All the more reason to start overclocking manually.










I don't really have the time to do that right now though. Anyway, if i just leave it in auto performance mode at 4.4Ghz with the stock cooler with the tropical temps at my place (~32C), will my CPU be okay in the long run?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *combatflexo*


The stress test is underway using Asus AI Suite II auto tuner. 4.53 not to bad max temps on air cooling are 61 degrees one hour in. Would a 3-6 run of Prime95 be fine, or should I do the 12 hour run? I just don't want to leave it running the last 6 hours while I'm sleeping.

OH yeah, can I join your club?


You should really do a 12 hours + run of Prime 95 Blend to be absolutely sure your system is stable.

Added to the Club. Welcome









Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


I don't really have the time to do that right now though. Anyway, if i just leave it in auto performance mode at 4.4Ghz with the stock cooler with the tropical temps at my place (~32C), will my CPU be okay in the long run?


You'll probably be fine.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


You'll probably be fine.


Its weird how my rig is more stable on Performance Mode than it is on Optimal in easy BIOS thing.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


Its weird how my rig is more stable on Performance Mode than it is on Optimal in easy BIOS thing.


Forgive me if I've asked already, but are your memory sticks in the blue slots? I mean, they're supposed to be.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Forgive me if I've asked already, but are your memory sticks in the blue slots? I mean, they're supposed to be.


Yup they are in the blue slots. I had to double confirm when i read the manual in that one.

Because normally the blue slots would be in DIMM 1 and DIMM 3 but in this board, the blue slots were in DIMM 2 and DIMM 4.


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

If you feel there are important information missing in the first posts of this Club, I would appreciate feedback from you and other members.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


Yup they are in the blue slots. I had to double confirm when i read the manual in that one.

Because normally the blue slots would be in DIMM 1 and DIMM 3 but in this board, the blue slots were in DIMM 2 and DIMM 4.


Oh, well that shoots down my theory.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*TwoCables*

If you feel there are important information missing in the first posts of this Club, I would appreciate feedback from you and other members.


I'm a bit sleepy right now to think about it, but I will keep this post in its own tab so I don't forget when I wake up (although, I won't be going to sleep for another 3-4 hours).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


It's something to do with PLX chipset implementation in the new GEN3 mobo's, im still learning about Ivy so maybe this'll help:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post15235826


Do you mean that even with a BIOS update to 0902, I cannot use PCIe 3.0 on my P8Z68-V board?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15336069*
> Do you mean that even with a BIOS update to 0902, I cannot use PCIe 3.0 on my P8Z68-V board?


Unfortunately no because the board physically doesn't have it.


----------



## combatflexo

I ran the stress test using Prime95 for over 3 hours and 1 of the workers(#4) came back with a fetal error after the self-test 32K pass, the other works continued to work just fine. Now what? Do I run the test again or attempt to adjust settings then run again? Also when running Prime95 is it safe to run overnight when there is no monitoring for 6+ hours?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatflexo;15336546*
> I ran the stress test using Prime95 for over 3 hours and 1 of the workers(#4) came back with a fetal error after the self-test 32K pass, the other works continued to work just fine. Now what? Do I run the test again or attempt to adjust settings then run again?


The settings in the UEFI must now be adjusted because if you run Prime95 again, then it will fail at roughly the same time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatflexo;15336546*
> Also when running Prime95 is it safe to run overnight when there is no monitoring for 6+ hours?


It's _very_ safe (and very recommended because it will enable you to run a 12-hour stress test).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15336402*
> Unfortunately no because the board physically doesn't have it.


So basically the update is useless?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15336586*
> The settings in the UEFI must now be adjusted because if you run Prime95 again, then it will fail at roughly the same time.
> 
> It's _very_ safe (and very recommended because it will enable you to run a 12-hour stress test).


Is OCCT safe to run overnight as well? AFAIK, Linpack (OCCT) is stressing CPUs hotter than Prime95 according to my other thread.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15336743*
> So basically the update is useless?


It's not useless to people who want to make their board compatible with Ivy Bridge.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15336743*
> Is OCCT safe to run overnight as well? AFAIK, Linpack (OCCT) is stressing CPUs hotter than Prime95 according to my other thread.


They all are.

This what we do, and people like us have been doing this for years.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15336791*
> It's not useless to people who want to make their board compatible with Ivy Bridge.
> 
> They all are.
> 
> This what we do, and people like us have been doing this for years.


Right. ASUS should remove the "support for PCIe 3.0" from the changelog of 0902 to avoid confusion.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15336817*
> Right. ASUS should remove the "support for PCIe 3.0" from the changelog of 0902 to avoid confusion.


If you dont have a Gen 3. Then from what i heard last with ivy bridge you will have possible support for x8 3.0 on the x16 slot.

This is coming from Gigabytes explanation in rebuttal to MSI.

If you have the GEN3 board that just came out then you have full support for x16 3.0.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I never touched any settings regarding USB in the bios. They should be fine the way they are. ehci hand-off?


Yes Sir, in my BIOS you can see EHCI hand-off default at disabled. What is it?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Yes Sir, in my BIOS you can see EHCI hand-off default at disabled. What is it?


Haven't looked for it in my bios yet.

I searched google and found this:

_
Quote:



EHCI stands for Enhanced Host Controller Interface. It is required for high-speed USB 2.0.


_

http://forums.techarp.com/bios-optim...-hand-off.html

So seems it should be enabled. Or should it? 'EHCI hand-off'? What does that mean? Anyone?


----------



## alw71

I want to use my PS3 controller with my PC and I'm told that i have to get a bluetooth 2.1 edr dongle. Do i have to get this as theres Bluetooth on the P8z68 v pro already.
How would i connect ? I really feel like I'm asking a stupid question I know.


----------



## neonraver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71;15344147*
> I want to use my PS3 controller with my PC and I'm told that i have to get a bluetooth 2.1 edr dongle. Do i have to get this as theres Bluetooth on the P8z68 v pro already.
> How would i connect ? I really feel like I'm asking a stupid question I know.


The motioninjoy Bluetooth drivers love messing with the onboard Bluetooth drivers (making them not work with anything else) so either get another dongle, or use the USB cable which to be honest is much easier to set up. That's what I do anyway and it works great


----------



## TwoCables

When in doubt about a setting (for example, EHCI Hand-off), just disable it and then see what happens.


----------



## alw71

I always find it hard to make L2 and R2 Work. I need for the special moves on pes








Plus i cant get the sticks to work properley either. Whats your config old chap if yot mind sharing? You use Xbu donox config ps3 or do you reconfig the whole thing on a custom set up. Cheers, nice Avatar btw dawg!


----------



## Akkarin

I can boot with Internal PLL enabled with C3/C6 enabled. But if I disable them, I do not boot. Just like if I disable all 3, I can not boot @ 5.0ghz. I have not checked to see if C3/C6 effect my 4.8 stability/bootability though. Any thoughts?


----------



## combatflexo

I was running prime95 for 2 hours and the it didn't have any errors, but in the Asus AI Suite II my mobo temp is 123 degrees C. I stopped the workers but I had a small error from the Asus suite saying "Motherboard centigrade..." something to that effect it closed before I could get the note, is my mobo toast now. The pc is still working and the CPU temperature never reached past 62 degrees C.

After shutting down and rebooting the mobo temp is 27 degrees C.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15341176*
> Haven't looked for it in my bios yet.
> 
> I searched google and found this:
> 
> http://forums.techarp.com/bios-optimization-guide-bog/23882-bios-ehci-hand-off.html
> 
> So seems it should be enabled. Or should it? 'EHCI hand-off'? What does that mean? Anyone?


I read in Google in another thread that if your OS support EHCI hand-off you should disable it. They say that Win7 supports it so I disabled it but I don't know for sure if that's correct.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15344456*
> When in doubt about a setting (for example, EHCI Hand-off), just disable it and then see what happens.


I tried disabling and enabling it and I don't see a difference in the OS environment?


----------



## crazydj

I was wondering, in the ezbios thingy, choosing the predefined 3 modes, 'Silent', 'Optimal' and 'Performance', the same as it being default?

Like i HAVE to choose one of the 3 options, then do my manual settings, or when i choose 'Load Default Settings' it totally bypasses the 3 options and uses my own/default settings.

Its because the 'Optimal' Setting is MORE UNSTABLE than the 'Performance' setting (Black Ops hangs, speakers play a high voltage electricity sound), but the performance setting is stable but sometimes give me an 'Overclocking failed' message in BIOS.

So what i did is load default settings, then i set the OC to Manual, leaving everything to AUTO but i changed the multiplier to 38x so that i would get 3.8ghz. Is this alright?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatflexo;15347306*
> I was running prime95 for 2 hours and the it didn't have any errors, but in the Asus AI Suite II my mobo temp is 123 degrees C. I stopped the workers but I had a small error from the Asus suite saying "Motherboard centigrade..." something to that effect it closed before I could get the note, is my mobo toast now. The pc is still working and the CPU temperature never reached past 62 degrees C.
> 
> After shutting down and rebooting the mobo temp is 27 degrees C.


This is another reason to uninstall that silly program. I think that if it really reached 123°C, then you'd know it because you'd have many problems right now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15348623*
> I read in Google in another thread that if your OS support EHCI hand-off you should disable it. They say that Win7 supports it so I disabled it but I don't know for sure if that's correct.
> 
> I tried disabling and enabling it and I don't see a difference in the OS environment?


Then disable it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj;15348828*
> I was wondering, in the ezbios thingy, choosing the predefined 3 modes, 'Silent', 'Optimal' and 'Performance', the same as it being default?
> 
> Like i HAVE to choose one of the 3 options, then do my manual settings, or when i choose 'Load Default Settings' it totally bypasses the 3 options and uses my own/default settings.
> 
> Its because the 'Optimal' Setting is MORE UNSTABLE than the 'Performance' setting (Black Ops hangs, speakers play a high voltage electricity sound), but the performance setting is stable but sometimes give me an 'Overclocking failed' message in BIOS.
> 
> So what i did is load default settings, then i set the OC to Manual, leaving everything to AUTO but i changed the multiplier to 38x so that i would get 3.8ghz. Is this alright?


No, because this is Overclock.net: go higher. hehe









So yeah, it's ok as long as you're ok with having a microscopic overclock.


----------



## Dropshock

Remove


----------



## Julez007

Few questions, if you guys don't mind enlightening me...

1.Does windows seven ultimate 64 effect stability? I ask because i have been stable at 4.7 with vista 32 and could not get past prime 95 at 4.8 longer than 30min until i upgraded to ultimate 64. I am currently on prime95 for 4hours on blend, trying for at least 12hours.

2. My VID is 1.3861v and vcore at 1.456v. Are these too high? My temps are 68.72.77.70 and have gone up as high as 83 but not for very long.

3. why would windows vista 32 be so much different than windows 64 in terms of stability for overclocking? Could it also be that i updated bios on mobo to the latest one?

4.How do i join >>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 (GEN3) Series Owners Club>>?

Any info would be much appreciated.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


Few questions, if you guys don't mind enlightening me...

1.Does windows seven ultimate 64 effect stability? I ask because i have been stable at 4.7 with vista 32 and could not get past prime 95 at 4.8 longer than 30min until i upgraded to ultimate 64. I am currently on prime95 for 4hours on blend, trying for at least 12hours.

3. why would windows vista 32 be so much different than windows 64 in terms of stability for overclocking? Could it also be that i updated bios on mobo to the latest one?


Depending on you knowledge this should be pretty obvious. But not for everyone and even I cant confirm 100% of this.

A 32 bit os will not make use of x86_64 instructions there for very likely not using many transistors that otherwise would be in use. Another less likely point is the data bus which is 64 bit is only being utilized at a 32 bit length. But the reason I think this is probably not even related is due to from what i remember 32 bit length data is padded to 64 bit for the sake of simplicity.

All it takes is one transistor out of millions not switching properly at the set frequency to bring the machine down.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


Few questions, if you guys don't mind enlightening me...

1.Does windows seven ultimate 64 effect stability? I ask because i have been stable at 4.7 with vista 32 and could not get past prime 95 at 4.8 longer than 30min until i upgraded to ultimate 64. I am currently on prime95 for 4hours on blend, trying for at least 12hours.

2. My VID is 1.3861v and vcore at 1.456v. Are these too high? My temps are 68.72.77.70 and have gone up as high as 83 but not for very long.


1.456V is a bit higher than the recommended 24/7 voltage, but is it at 1.456V at all times, or does it dynamically adjust according to the CPU usage (like, does it go down when the system is idle)?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


3. why would windows vista 32 be so much different than windows 64 in terms of stability for overclocking? Could it also be that i updated bios on mobo to the latest one?


I think that it might only be because of the BIOS update.


----------



## combatflexo

When prime95 errors out does it just stop processing those cores and/or just shutdown the pc if I have major errors? I want to stable my system but I don't want to screw up my cpu/mobo. So in theory my pc or prime should stop running or shutdown if any fetal errors occur such as overheating, or a prime95 worker receives an error on a core?

I'm assuming people run prime95 all the time to attempt to get there systems stable? I've ran it about 5 times already and haven't had great success(1 with fetal error on core 4, another with my stupid Asus suite error mobo overheat error) and a few where stable for an hour or two but didn't feel comfortable running for 6-16 hours before I could check it again.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alw71*


I want to use my PS3 controller with my PC and I'm told that i have to get a bluetooth 2.1 edr dongle. Do i have to get this as theres Bluetooth on the P8z68 v pro already. 
How would i connect ? I really feel like I'm asking a stupid question I know.


i don't think you need a 2.1 edr dongle your broad as already got bluetooth
just double click the bluetooth icon in the task bar.you will get a box pop up

click on the add device and just let it seach for your item and then follow instructions
but also make sure you have enabled bluetooth in the bios.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007;15350473*
> 4.How do i join >>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 (GEN3) Series Owners Club>>?
> 
> Any info would be much appreciated.


Added! Welcome!


----------



## nekromantik

add me please
I got the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *combatflexo*


When prime95 errors out does it just stop processing those cores and/or just shutdown the pc if I have major errors? I want to stable my system but I don't want to screw up my cpu/mobo. So in theory my pc or prime should stop running or shutdown if any fetal errors occur such as overheating, or a prime95 worker receives an error on a core?


It varies. If the voltage is too low, then your computer will either freeze or BSOD. If you encounter an error then increase your voltage a smidgen and retest.

That is why running Linpack (LinX, IntelBurnTest) is so much easier as you don't have to run it for 8-12 hours, you can do it for 25 passes using all RAM which comes out to 1-2 hours (more if you have 8GB+).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *combatflexo*


I'm assuming people run prime95 all the time to attempt to get there systems stable? I've ran it about 5 times already and haven't had great success(1 with fetal error on core 4, another with my stupid Asus suite error mobo overheat error) and a few where stable for an hour or two but didn't feel comfortable running for 6-16 hours before I could check it again.


First, don't use the Asus software.. it sucks. Second, if you're encounter temperature issues then I would opt for a better HSF or check that yours is seated correctly.

Just run it overnight or when you're going to school/work.


----------



## Julez007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


1.456V is a bit higher than the recommended 24/7 voltage, but is it at 1.456V at all times, or does it dynamically adjust according to the CPU usage (like, does it go down when the system is idle),


It went up. 11hours on prime95 and vid is at 1.4011 with vcore at 1.480. Are these ok? My temps have gone up to 87 until i turned on the air conditioner and is sitting on 73-82.

It passed 12 hours on prime95 blend

but when it's idling it's vid 1.0007 and vcore 1.040


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *combatflexo*


When prime95 errors out does it just stop processing those cores and/or just shutdown the pc if I have major errors? I want to stable my system but I don't want to screw up my cpu/mobo. So in theory my pc or prime should stop running or shutdown if any fetal errors occur such as overheating, or a prime95 worker receives an error on a core?


When a "worker" in Prime95 fails, that core stops being loaded and it just sits there idling. If two workers fail, then both of those cores just sit idling.

If the system locks up, then the entire system just sits there idling.

If you get a BSOD, then it will either reboot automatically and then just sit there at the desktop idling, or it will keep the BSOD up until you press the Reset button on your case. Either way, the system just sits there idling. Also, whether or not it automatically restarts depends on your setting in Windows.

In other words, there is no risk of screwing up your CPU or mobo.

If you want to know whether or not there's a risk of overheating, then run Prime95 for about 10 minutes: your maximum temperature during that time will be only about 1-3 degrees lower than the maximum temp during a 12-hour test.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *combatflexo*


I'm assuming people run prime95 all the time to attempt to get there systems stable? I've ran it about 5 times already and haven't had great success(1 with fetal error on core 4, another with my stupid Asus suite error mobo overheat error) and a few where stable for an hour or two but didn't feel comfortable running for 6-16 hours before I could check it again.


Prime95 is a program that's used to check how stable a system is at the current settings in the BIOS or UEFI.

It's like building a bridge and then putting a ton of weight on it to test the bridge's ability to be a bridge. Prime95 is that weight.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Julez007*


It went up. 11hours on prime95 and vid is at 1.4011 with vcore at 1.480. Are these ok? My temps have gone up to 87 until i turned on the air conditioner and is sitting on 73-82.

It passed 12 hours on prime95 blend

but when it's idling it's vid 1.0007 and vcore 1.040


Well, since it's idling like that, then I would say it's up to you. Personally, I wouldn't enjoy watching my load voltage go that high, but there are many who think I'm being a wimp.


----------



## crazydj

So do i say UEFI or BIOS? Can i still call it BIOS? Is it technically still called a BIOS? 4 years ago, when i was taking my GCE 'A' Levels in Computing, we called it BIOS. I wonder if they would have to change it to UEFI in a few years time...


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


So do i say UEFI or BIOS? Can i still call it BIOS? Is it technically still called a BIOS? 4 years ago, when i was taking my GCE 'A' Levels in Computing, we called it BIOS. I wonder if they would have to change it to UEFI in a few years time...










UEFI pertains more to the newer interface of the BIOS where a mouse can be used like the UI of a program...user friendliness and a nicer interface is the aim, but it's still a BIOS.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PB4UGO*


UEFI pertains more to the newer interface of the BIOS where a mouse can be used like the UI of a program...user friendliness and a nicer interface is the aim, but it's still a BIOS.


Technically, UEFI is UEFI and not BIOS. Crazydj's right that we should not call it BIOS anymore. UEFI is not mainly a "new interface of the BIOS". It is the new version of BIOS which provides some advantages over it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


So do i say UEFI or BIOS? Can i still call it BIOS? Is it technically still called a BIOS? 4 years ago, when i was taking my GCE 'A' Levels in Computing, we called it BIOS. I wonder if they would have to change it to UEFI in a few years time...










Juan Jose at ASUS ("JJ") called it "a BIOS replacement". It's essentially the next step. So now we have the BIOS and the UEFI.

BIOS is Basic Input/Output System, and UEFI is Unified Extensible Firmware Interface.


----------



## Simirath

Hello







I am using asus p8z68 v pro and i7 2600k at stock.

Can someone help me with overclocking my cpu to 4.8 ghz i bought Noctua NH-D14 and i updated bios but i am so afraid of making a mistake. I would be so happy if anyone with same build can tell me what to change @ bios. I checked guides but still i am afraid of applying changes until i find a person with same build.

I hope someone is kind enough to assist me with this, thank you.


----------



## wholeeo

Is it just me or are the UEFI these boards have more aesthetically appealing than the one the MIVE features? I'm having a hard time deciding between the P8Z68 Deluxe and the Maximus IV Extreme-Z. I'm really not a fan of EATX boards nor do I like where they placed the USB3 header on the MIVE,










What advantages does a MIVE have over the P8Z68D? I'd like to get a nice overclock with a 2600K with whichever board I choose.

Edit: Just noticed that the aesthetically appealing part of my rant is just the UEFI's EZ mode which both boards have.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo;15366792*
> Is it just me or are the UEFI these boards have more aesthetically appealing than the one the MIVE features? I'm having a hard time deciding between the P8Z68 Deluxe and the Maximus IV Extreme-Z. I'm really not a fan of EATX boards nor do I like where they placed the USB3 header on the MIVE,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What advantages does a MIVE have over the P8Z68D? I'd like to get a nice overclock with a 2600K with whichever board I choose.


If you want bigger e-peen go for ROG series board
for a good 2600k OC you can even get a Pro board and it'll do just fine.
It all comes down to, if you really need it, will you need all the special features and that sort of things.


----------



## kevindd992002

What's MIVE?


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15367343*
> What's MIVE?


Maximus IV Extreme


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekromantik;15359833*
> add me please
> I got the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1


I'll add you in a second! Welcome!









BTW: Also added, *Maniak*. Yet another P8P67 PRO 3.1 owner. Welcome!


----------



## nekromantik

cant wait to put my rig together.
sadly I missed the delivery of my Silver Arrow today so cant build until tomorrow.


----------



## MajoHeadTrauma

Am I good to join?


----------



## billythekid2012

i been looking at the driver up dates
like the chip set /storage
and there for the 79 boards
so is it safe to them on a none 79 board
thanks


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MajoHeadTrauma;15369586*
> Am I good to join?


I'll add you in a moment









Update: *stilllogicz* also added. Yet another P8Z68-V PRO owner. Welcome!


----------



## axerik5

Please add me when you get a chance.


----------



## Kenji

need some settings on an i7-2600K at 4.6GHz for the p8z68 V PRO. Im running a h100 water cooler so temps should not be too much of a problem.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*


i been looking at the driver up dates 
like the chip set /storage 
and there for the 79 boards
so is it safe to them on a none 79 board
thanks


There's no danger, but if the hardware is different enough, then the driver will just sit there doing nothing (that is, if it will even install). This means that if the hardware is different enough, then the driver will have nothing to drive/operate. That's provided that the driver even installs without saying _"Hey, I don't see the hardware that I am designed for, so therefore I will not install"_.

It would kinda be like me installing an ASUS Xonar driver for my XtremeGamer.


----------



## MajoHeadTrauma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15369666*
> I'll add you in a moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update: *stilllogicz* also added. Yet another P8Z68-V PRO owner. Welcome!


Thank you. It is a pleasure to join.


----------



## piskooooo

Can someone ITT help me with this?

http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/1146864-psu-bad-drivers.html

Thanks.


----------



## Kenji

Any fix for the BIOS Screen flashing twice before booting up on the Z68 PRo?


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji;15377954*
> Any fix for the BIOS Screen flashing twice before booting up on the Z68 PRo?


Is it because you get information about your disks, etc. configuration? Then this is probably the solution


----------



## Julez007

Does Intel Burn Test work just as good as Prime95?

I recently ran prime95 for 12 hours to see if i could get it stable at 4.8ghz. It passed.

But now i want to see if i can go higher and dont want to leave my comp on for another 12hours while on prime95.

So I tried Intel burn test for 20 passes at standard at 4.9ghz and it also passed. Is standard ok for memory or do i have to put it on maximum(im not overclocking my memory)?

Does this mean it's stable? Temps were pretty much the same on Prime95 and Intel burn.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji;15377954*
> Any fix for the BIOS Screen flashing twice before booting up on the Z68 PRo?


Yes, actually: disable the Marvell Storage Controller in Advanced > Onboard Devices Configuration. You may need to disable the JMB Storage Controller too, but wait and see first.


----------



## Morias

Hey all,

Just built a new PC, and as it's been a while since I last did it I'm sure that there's a silly answer to this one.

My problem is I don't have any control over the CPU_Fan on my P8Z68 Pro - it's running at 2000 rpm no matter what I do. I'm running a Corsair A70, and have both fans plugged into the CPU_Fan header via a 3 pin splitter.

So far the following has had no effect:
Changing the CPU_Fan profile in BIOS
Changing the CPU_Fan profile in AI suite
Using a User profile in AI suite
Using Speedfan

I've just flashed the BIOS to 0801 which I thought might have worked - but nope, still no control over the CPU fan speed.

Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## Thalys

In order to have a "dynamic" CPU-Fan active you'll need to use 4 Pins Fans I'm afraid.
With 3 Pins Fans it will run at full speed whatever the settings.


----------



## Morias

Hmpf, so the P8Z68 doesn't allow CPU fan speed changes through voltage regulation?

Not sure whether I'm more disappointed with the mobo, or whenther I blame the Corsair cooler for not being PWM regulated...


----------



## chillidog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morias*


Hmpf, so the P8Z68 doesn't allow CPU fan speed changes through voltage regulation?

Not sure whether I'm more disappointed with the mobo, or whenther I blame the Corsair cooler for not being PWM regulated...


have you fitted the low speed adapter's if am right in saying you should be able adjust the speed from 20000rpm to 16000 rpm by using these.
or you could use an third party fan controler (may be)


----------



## piskooooo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *piskooooo*


Can someone ITT help me with this?

http://www.overclock.net/power-suppl...d-drivers.html

Thanks.


I ran Prime95 again overnight and it bluescreened so I think I fixed the problem (unstable overclock, most likely just got lucky the first time).

*EDIT:* Okay no, it just happened again.

*EDIT 2:* Got a stable OC. Didn't have time to run Prime95 but I did 5 passes of Intel Burn Test on Maximum while I took a shower. If it crashes again I'm going to try changing the Sata cables. Last time my computer was repeatedly crashing I had a bad cable and that actually fixed it.


----------



## Morias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog;15383450*
> have you fitted the low speed adapter's if am right in saying you should be able adjust the speed from 20000rpm to 16000 rpm by using these.
> or you could use an third party fan controler (may be)


Tried them but still too noisy for my tastes. I've ordered a couple of 120mm Akasa Apache Ultra Silent Fans which have PWM control, just going to replace the fans on the A70 with these.


----------



## cjrulli

Does anyone know when the Gen3 series are due out? What is the major difference between Z68 and P67?


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjrulli;15387915*
> Does anyone know when the Gen3 series are due out? What is the major difference between Z68 and P67?


Very soon, I am not sure on the date exactly. As for the differences. You get ssd caching and intel quicksync and igpu out.


----------



## mgrman

Add me to the club please! Z68-V Pro here.


----------



## keyboard

A few posts back, someone asked if the Gen3 boards would be released, and someone replied that the boards would be released soon.

I thought that the current Z68 boards are Gen3 boards.









Are they not? Where could i get more information on these?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *keyboard*


A few posts back, someone asked if the Gen3 boards would be released, and someone replied that the boards would be released soon.

I thought that the current Z68 boards are Gen3 boards.









Are they not? Where could i get more information on these?


Gen3 boards will have "Gen3" in their name.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keyboard;15390018*
> A few posts back, someone asked if the Gen3 boards would be released, and someone replied that the boards would be released soon.
> 
> I thought that the current Z68 boards are Gen3 boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are they not? Where could i get more information on these?


Gen3 boards would have hardware support for PCIe 3.0.


----------



## keyboard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Gen3 boards would have hardware support for PCIe 3.0.


Any additional features other than it being able to support Ivy bridge processors and PCIe 3.0 support?


----------



## Thalys

Sandy Bridge CPU motherboards will be Ivy Bridge CPU compliant by a BIOS update (except for the PCIe 3.0 support wich mandatory requires a "GEN3" motherboard).
AFAIK all others features will be the same.


----------



## turrican9

Added to the Club:

*Sir_Frags_alot* - P8Z68 Deluxe Owner
*axerik5* - P8Z68-V Owner
*mgrman* - P8Z68-V PRO Owner

Welcome!


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjrulli*


Does anyone know when the Gen3 series are due out? What is the major difference between Z68 and P67?


They're already out.








http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?...9533aae00b0a51 (they had it in before NewEgg. Great store btw.)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131792
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131790
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131791

I just got the *P8Z68-V*. Please add me to the club. So what seems to be the most stable bios for this board? The 0801 one?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*


They're already out.








http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?...9533aae00b0a51 (they had it in before NewEgg. Great store btw.)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131792
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131790
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131791

I just got the *P8Z68-V*. Please add me to the club. So what seems to be the most stable bios for this board? The 0801 one?


Added! Welcome! You are member number 200!


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Woo!







Thanks for adding me.


----------



## hmar

Hi,

Sorry for question this: why a continuous 12 hour test with Prime95. Are there rapports of blue screens after 6 or 8 hours of test ? I had all my blue screens in the first two hours.

hmar


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hmar*


Hi,

Sorry for question this: why a continuous 12 hour test with Prime95. Are there rapports of blue screens after 6 or 8 hours of test ? I had all my blue screens in the first two hours.

hmar


Not just BSODs, but failed "workers" and even lock-ups.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*


They're already out.








http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?...9533aae00b0a51 (they had it in before NewEgg. Great store btw.)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131792
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131790
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131791

I just got the *P8Z68-V*. Please add me to the club. So what seems to be the most stable bios for this board? The 0801 one?


Ughhh, I just got the Deluxe 2 days ago.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wholeeo*


Ughhh, I just got the Deluxe 2 days ago.


Yours is the same exact board, minus the PCI Express 3.0 slots. Just do a comparison on Asus' website (same goes for their other boards vs. the new Gen3 versions).

That's the reason why I chose my P8Z68-V over the Gen3 variant. Plus, it was almost $40 cheaper. The hype over the PCI Express 3.0 cards that are coming up I don't think justifies going for a 3.0 board right now.


----------



## turrican9

This Club has reached it's limit of 200 members.

So I will not let in more people.

Edit: Lol! Just kidding!


----------



## Trippen Out

This thread is so full of stuff. its 112 pages at like 40+ post per page. so while im weeding through this im gonna ask a question here and there. first one is there a template for an i7 2600k oc. i saw the one two cables had but it was the 2500k.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


This thread is so full of stuff. its 112 pages at like 40+ post per page. so while im weeding through this im gonna ask a question here and there. first one is there a template for an i7 2600k oc. i saw the one two cables had but it was the 2500k.


I'd like to see this as well. Also, what are the norm vcores for 4.8ghz stable HT on.


----------



## turrican9

The template are the same for 2600K's.

There are no norms for Vcore. Each CPU differs, and each person have to test the Vcore needed for their overclock.


----------



## wholeeo

Well whats the recommended vcore limit and what would be considered a dud chip?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wholeeo*


Well whats the recommended vcore limit and what would be considered a dud chip?


J.J from ASUS says 1.425v Vcore is a good limit for 24/7. Intel says 1.52v Vcore max I believe.

A dud 2500K/2600K will need all the way up to 1.4v Vcore for 4.5GHz a good one will need 1.3v or lower for the same speed.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


The template are the same for 2600K's.

There are no norms for Vcore. Each CPU differs, and each person have to test the Vcore needed for their overclock.



I had a feeling you were going to say that. I think ill give it a go later tonight.

I just finally updated the bios. went from 1503 to 2001. hopefully its worth it. Also. i know this has been covered i just cant seem to find it right this second. but i can not get my speed to stay constant. ive already disabled the intel speedstep stuff. but i dont wanna sit at 1.6ghz when im idle. i would like my full speed all the time.

lastly has there been anything said about overclocking with virtaulization technology enabled.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


I had a feeling you were going to say that. I think ill give it a go later tonight.

I just finally updated the bios. went from 1503 to 2001. hopefully its worth it. Also. i know this has been covered i just cant seem to find it right this second. but i can not get my speed to stay constant. ive already disabled the intel speedstep stuff. but i dont wanna sit at 1.6ghz when im idle. i would like my full speed all the time.

lastly has there been anything said about overclocking with virtaulization technology enabled.


But there is absolutely zero performance loss with Sandy Bridge when it downclocks. It perfectly adjusts dynamically based on load.


----------



## kevindd992002

How much voltage is equal to one "notch" when increasing or decreasing voltages?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


How much voltage is equal to one "notch" when increasing or decreasing voltages?


0.005V for my motherboard.

I learned that from my manual.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15395743*
> 0.005V for my motherboard.
> 
> I learned that from my manual.


That's the same as using the +/- in the keyboard, right?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15397522*
> That's the same as using the +/- in the keyboard, right?


I can't remember. Try it and see.


----------



## kevindd992002

Is it normal for my motherboard to give out a 1.65V of VDIMM when set to Auto? My RAM modules are rated 1.5V.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15397881*
> Is it normal for my motherboard to give out a 1.65V of VDIMM when set to Auto? My RAM modules are rated 1.5V.


could it auto select 1.65v because you are using 4 dimms? Have you tried with only two RAM sticks?

Anyway, just try and set them manually to 1.5v and see if it's stable.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15397967*
> could it auto select 1.65v because you are using 4 dimms? Have you tried with only two RAM sticks?
> 
> Anyway, just try and set them manually to 1.5v and see if it's stable.


Ok. Initially, I had 2 dimms only but I did not notice what voltage it gave when in Auto mode.

Anyway, I cannot boot with the 4 dimms installed and set at their rated voltage/timings. I already tried setting VDIMM=1.65V and VCCIO=1.15V and nothing seems to be working. What could possibly be the error here?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398134*
> Ok. Initially, I had 2 dimms only but I did not notice what voltage it gave when in Auto mode.
> 
> Anyway, I cannot boot with the 4 dimms installed and set at their rated voltage/timings. I already tried setting VDIMM=1.65V and VCCIO=1.15V and nothing seems to be working. What could possibly be the error here?


Have you checked mobos QVL to see if your RAM is listed there? And if so, are they listed to be compatible in all slots


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15398174*
> Have you checked mobos QVL to see if your RAM is listed there? And if so, are they listed to be compatible in all slots


I just checked now and can't find my DIMMS listed in the list. Before buying these though, many OCN members recommended it to me. That's weird?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398288*
> I just checked now and can't find my DIMMS listed in the list. Before buying these though, many OCN members recommended it to me. That's weird?


Well, if they arent in the QVL, there are no guarantees..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398288*
> I just checked now and can't find my DIMMS listed in the list. Before buying these though, many OCN members recommended it to me. That's weird?


Then none of them checked the QVL for your motherboard.

Which memory do you have exactly?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15398324*
> Then none of them checked the QVL for your motherboard.
> 
> Which memory do you have exactly?


I have 2 kits of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231444

Is it very much important for RAM modules to be included in the QVL?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398367*
> I have 2 kits of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231444
> 
> Is it very much important for RAM modules to be included in the QVL?


They can work just fine even if their not listed in the mobos QVL, but as I've said, then there is no guarantee they will work correctly.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398367*
> I have 2 kits of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231444
> 
> Is it very much important for RAM modules to be included in the QVL?


Oh, that sheds a ton of light on this. Are you trying to use the 6-8-6-24 timings?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15398398*
> Oh, that sheds a ton of light on this. Are you trying to use the 6-8-6-24 timings?


Yes? Because they are the rated timings? Or it's not that simple?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398448*
> Yes? Because they are the rated timings? Or it's not that simple?


Using both of these kits together requires looser timings. It may also require 1.6V in addition to the looser timings, but try the looser timings *first*.

An example starting point can be 7-8-7-24-2T. If that doesn't work, then you may need to go with 8-8-8-24-2T. If that doesn't work, then 9-9-9-24-2T. If that doesn't work, then 9-10-9-28-2T.

6-8-6-24-2T is too tight unless you are only using one of the kits alone.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15398483*
> Using both of these kits together requires looser timings. It may also require 1.6V in addition to the looser timings, but try the looser timings *first*.
> 
> An example starting point can be 7-8-7-24-2T. If that doesn't work, then you may need to go with 8-8-8-24-2T. If that doesn't work, then 9-9-9-24-2T. If that doesn't work, then 9-10-9-28-2T.
> 
> 6-8-6-24-2T is too tight unless you are only using one of the kits alone.


Oh ok. I'll try that. No need to increase VCCIO?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398525*
> Oh ok. I'll try that. No need to increase VCCIO?


Let's wait and see. Stick to 1.5V DRAM Voltage, VCCIO on Auto, and let's just adjust the timings.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15398483*
> Using both of these kits together requires looser timings. It may also require 1.6V in addition to the looser timings, but try the looser timings *first*.
> 
> An example starting point can be 7-8-7-24-2T. If that doesn't work, then you may need to go with 8-8-8-24-2T. If that doesn't work, then 9-9-9-24-2T. If that doesn't work, then 9-10-9-28-2T.
> 
> 6-8-6-24-2T is too tight unless you are only using one of the kits alone.


Keeping VCCIO at Auto and setting VDIMM to 1.5V, I was able to boot at 8-8-8-24-2T. CAS7 was a no go. What would be my next step?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398780*
> Keeping VCCIO at Auto and setting VDIMM to 1.5V, I was able to boot at 8-8-8-24-2T. CAS7 was a no go. What would be my next step?


I don't know if there is one. It sounds to me like 8-8-8-24-2T is your optimal timing configuration.


----------



## turrican9

Those sticks are rated at 6-8-6-24 as a 2x2GB kit. Whole different story when running 4x2GB. And on top of this they were not listed in the QVL either.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15398812*
> I don't know if there is one. It sounds to me like 8-8-8-24-2T is your optimal timing configuration.


So increasing the voltage won't make my timings more tight?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15398841*
> Those sticks are rated at 6-8-6-24 as a 2x2GB kit. Whole different story when running 4x2GB. And on top of this they were not listed in the QVL either.


That's right.

If G.SKILL put 4 of these together as a kit, then they probably would have put "8-8-8-24" on the stickers.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398883*
> So increasing the voltage won't make my timings more tight?


I don't know. All you can do is try.


----------



## kevindd992002

Ok. Also, which is better 7-9-7-24 or 8-8-8-24?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15398945*
> Ok. Also, which is better 7-9-7-24 or 8-8-8-24?


I personally don't know, but I think that with Sandy Bridge there would be no noticeable real-world difference.


----------



## turrican9

Really, anything after 1600MHz 9-9-9-24 gives nothing but more syntetic performance on the Sandybridge platform.


----------



## kevindd992002

Ok. So it would not be wise to sell my 2 kits and get an 8GB (2x4GB) 1600MHz CAS7 kit?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15399019*
> Ok. So it would not be wise to sell my 2 kits and get an 8GB (2x4GB) 1600MHz CAS7 kit?


Only if you are into syntetic benchmarking.

You can just aswell run the chips you have at 1600 8-8-8-24. You will notice no difference anyway.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15399019*
> Ok. So it would not be wise to sell my 2 kits and get an 8GB (2x4GB) 1600MHz CAS7 kit?


Meh, no I don't think so.


----------



## turrican9

see for yourself here: *The Best Memory for Sandy Bridge*


----------



## TwoCables

Hey, that's the guide that made me feel comfortable buying the memory that I have and not tweaking it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15399039*
> Only if you are into syntetic benchmarking.
> 
> You can just aswell run the chips you have at 1600 8-8-8-24. You will notice no difference anyway.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15399041*
> Meh, no I don't think so.


Ok. Thanks for the info







Where does increasing VCCIO come into play?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15399079*
> Ok. Thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where does increasing VCCIO come into play?


Tweaking VCCIO can help if you're overclocking mem very far. No need to increase it if you're not having stability issues.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15399079*
> Ok. Thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where does increasing VCCIO come into play?


I think that this is a very good question because I don't kinow. I mean I need at least 1.15625V otherwise I have instability. I have 1.5V DRAM Voltage and I have a 2 x 4GB kit.

I sometimes wonder if it's because I have 8GB of 1866MHz memory with a 4.8GHz overclock... I don't know.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15399103*
> Tweaking VCCIO can help if you're overclocking mem very far. No need to increase it if you're not having stability issues.


When you say overclocking, are you referring to increasing the clock speed of the modules?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15399114*
> I think that this is a very good question because I don't kinow. I mean I need at least 1.15625V otherwise I have instability. I have 1.5V DRAM Voltage and I have a 2 x 4GB kit.
> 
> I sometimes wonder if it's because I have 8GB of 1866MHz memory with a 4.8GHz overclock... I don't know.


Most probably a combination.

I think that you may have to increase VCCIO from 1866MHz and up, but usually not at 1600MHz and lower.


----------



## turrican9

I just built a 2500K/Z68 Gene-Z combo for a friend.

And I noticed his system had considerable higher wattage draw on the CPU VS mine under load, at same Vcores. Even if I'm using a 2600K. I meassured Wattage draw with HWiNFO 64. I think it must have been at least 10 Watts higher on his system.

So this is most probably because of the integrated GPU utilized by the Z68? I have a P67. I also think temps were pretty high for the Vcore on his system. Probably because the higher wattage

Any thoughts?


----------



## neonraver

Hey guys, I'm having a problem. I updated the BIOS on my P8P67 Pro and now it won't downclock at idle. Speedstep is on. I am using EXACTLY the same settings as before and it won't change. Constantly at 4.7GHz and 1.3v. It used to run at 4.7GHz before at 1.296v and downclock itself and run at 0.9v when I wasn't pushing it. Temps are still low but I want speedstep to kick in.

I had it on offset voltage at + 0.025v before. Now the settings aren't working at all. Any ideas?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neonraver;15399993*
> Hey guys, I'm having a problem. I updated the BIOS on my P8P67 Pro and now it won't downclock at idle. Speedstep is on. I am using EXACTLY the same settings as before and it won't change. Constantly at 4.7GHz and 1.3v. It used to run at 4.7GHz before at 1.296v and downclock itself and run at 0.9v when I wasn't pushing it. Temps are still low but I want speedstep to kick in.
> 
> I had it on offset voltage at + 0.025v before. Now the settings aren't working at all. Any ideas?


Here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15400020*
> Check your power options in Windows and make sure it is not at Performance mode.
> 
> If it ain't try loading optimized default in bios, save and enter your settings again.


----------



## neonraver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Here


The performance mode thing did it. But I used performance mode before. Lame


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neonraver;15400082*
> The performance mode thing did it. But I used performance mode before. Lame


Mine has always been on 'Balanced'.


----------



## neonraver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Mine has always been on 'Balanced'.


The annoying thing is I can see what setting is causing it, but even when I change it to the same as what it is for balanced (minimum CPU power at 5%) it still stays at maximum.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


But there is absolutely zero performance loss with Sandy Bridge when it downclocks. It perfectly adjusts dynamically based on load.


its not about the performance its about the 24/7 e-peen.


----------



## Banga87

I just built my pc last night, tried to turn it on but im getting a red light boot_device_led :\\

Mobo = Asus P8Z68-V PRO


----------



## kevindd992002

I have exactly the same problem as neonraver here: http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post15399106 . When I overclock my CPU, CPU-Z shows my CPU frequency at 4.5GHz all the time. Changing back my settings to "Auto" in BIOS made Speedstep work again (reaches all the way down to 1.6GHz) but I lose the overclocking ability. What is wrong with this? I, too, updated to the latest BIOS beta version of my board 0902.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


its not about the performance its about the 24/7 e-peen.


You can't be serious.


----------



## CherryGarcia

Just set up my P8P67 PRO and I am noticing this issue with speedstep as well, the fix posted to enable balanced power mode rather than performance has fixed it for now.

Thanks guys.


----------



## Trippen Out

This is where i am at now. after reading a lot of info in this thread. My question is while running prime 95. about how far into it will have to go before you see the max temp your gonna hit period? this is a pic of my current test and the max temps ive hit so far, on average they seam to stay about 69c or so.

yeah i know its kinda hard to read


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CherryGarcia*


Just set up my P8P67 PRO and I am noticing this issue with speedstep as well, the fix posted to enable balanced power mode rather than performance has fixed it for now.

Thanks guys.


Ok. But AFAIK putting power options to high performance is recommended for desktop computers. So is this a common problem for ASUS boards? Because I have P8Z68 and still experience this problem.


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

Does anyone know if Ivy Bridge is _actually_ going to release at the end of the year?

Either way, I'm thinking the Gen 3 Z68 Deluxe version of these boards. Maybe I'll see y'all again later.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl*


Does anyone know if Ivy Bridge is _actually_ going to release at the end of the year?


Look here:

Quote:



Intel also stated that Ivy bridge is on target for a late Q4 "qualification for sale", which means that Intel will be begin shipping final products to its customers in the second half of the quarter. This will allow Intel to maintain its tick-tock cadence and keep the claim that a production shrink has been introduced in yet another uneven year (and so that it can state that its 22 nm chips were released in 2011). *Of course, that does not mean that you will be able to buy those chips in 2011. According to Otellini, first Ivy Bridge systems should become available in Spring 2012.*

Link: http://www.tomshardware.com/news/ivy...tor,13753.html



I'm really loving my P8Z68-V motherboard so far, especially the new bios design. Flashed it with 0801 before installing Windows. Smooth running so far.

The only flaw is their use of very thick thermal pads on the board. Not sure what quality they are, but I'll most likely replace those with some Fujipoly ones later on. Also, there seemed to be thermal tape on the chipset (it wasn't just tacky...it had adhesive on the side where it attached to the heatsink), which I replaced with some Phobya HeGrease Extreme.


----------



## hmar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


yeah i know its kinda hard to read


Wow, you are at the "dark site"







. Normally the stability test is a looong 12 hours.


----------



## MajoHeadTrauma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl;15404606*
> Does anyone know if Ivy Bridge is _actually_ going to release at the end of the year?


Maybe you will find this interesting.

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/news/report_dont_expect_ivy_bridge_march


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MajoHeadTrauma;15406205*
> Maybe you will find this interesting.
> 
> http://www.maximumpc.com/article/news/report_dont_expect_ivy_bridge_march


Aww
I was really looking forward to get IVY this year
On the other hand maybe I could finally get a new GPU for this beastie.

Sent using force mind trick from my SGS


----------



## iARDAs

Finally the correct thread.
Hey there folks.

I asked this questions in a wrong thread and asking them here again

I currently have a Asus p8Z68V-LE motherboard. It is coming tomorrow with my new desktop

I asked it in a different topic but i did not get answers.

Do you have the CD installed in your desktops? The CD that came with the motherboard?

Can i overclock the CPU safely with this software?

Is there a guide in this motherboard that explains how to overclock?

Thank you all in advance.


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs;15407401*
> Finally the correct thread.
> Hey there folks.
> 
> I asked this questions in a wrong thread and asking them here again
> 
> I currently have a Asus p8Z68V-LE motherboard. It is coming tomorrow with my new desktop
> 
> I asked it in a different topic but i did not get answers.
> 
> Do you have the CD installed in your desktops? The CD that came with the motherboard?
> 
> Can i overclock the CPU safely with this software?
> 
> Is there a guide in this motherboard that explains how to overclock?
> 
> Thank you all in advance.


The CD that comes with the mobo will have everything you could possibly want and more (included in ASUS AI Suite II). The AI Suite has 'Auto System Level Up" which gives you a stable 4.4GHz OC on a 2600K, plus BIOS has OC Tuner which is a BIOS based overclocking tool similar to the Auto-Tweaker, though I have no idea how well either works on a 2500K.

You won't find any guides in the manual about manually overclocking as ASUS won't take responsibility for things that may go wrong. There is a guide right here on OCN that should help though: http://www.overclock.net/intel-general/910467-ultimate-sandy-bridge-oc-guide-p67a.html

Good luck.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam;15407628*
> The CD that comes with the mobo will have everything you could possibly want and more (included in ASUS AI Suite II). The AI Suite has 'Auto System Level Up" which gives you a stable 4.4GHz OC on a 2600K, plus BIOS has OC Tuner which is a BIOS based overclocking tool similar to the Auto-Tweaker, though I have no idea how well either works on a 2500K.
> 
> You won't find any guides in the manual about manually overclocking as ASUS won't take responsibility for things that may go wrong. There is a guide right here on OCN that should help though: http://www.overclock.net/intel-general/910467-ultimate-sandy-bridge-oc-guide-p67a.html
> 
> Good luck.


Thank you. So your suggestion is basically install the latest software and overclock the CPU with it. I hope the interface is noob friendly.

If I can overclock safely to 4.0+ from the stock 3.0 than this should be enough for me. And it seems that the software can handle it.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar;15405656*
> Wow, you are at the "dark site"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Normally the stability test is a looong 12 hours.


yea but during that 12 hours you hit your peak temp and thats what im wondering was how long it takes to hit that temp. this way i will know that i dont have to worry about temps and can just let it do its thing.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs;15407686*
> Thank you. So your suggestion is basically install the latest software and overclock the CPU with it. I hope the interface is noob friendly.
> 
> If I can overclock safely to 4.0+ from the stock 3.0 than this should be enough for me. And it seems that the software can handle it.


Overclocking has never been easier
You can get 4.2GHz without bumping voltages (at least that's it in my case)
Just put the core multiplier 42 and BLCK @100MHz and "presto changio" you all set.
AI suites interface is quite understandable, easy to work with. But the auto OC feature should work also although I've never used it.


----------



## turrican9

*MercurySteam*

Added you to the Club! Welcome!









I'm posting your pictures here, because I can't link to my PM. Will add a link behind your nick pointing to this post and your pictures









*MercurySteam's ASUS P8Z68-V PRO system:*


----------



## kevindd992002

What is the default value of VCCIO when it is set to Auto in the BIOS?

When I clear the RTC RAM by using the jumper in the motherboard, I get "press F1 to recover settings" during POST. And when I press F1, it still has all settings and time intact. Is this normal? I expect it to lose all the settings, right? The only thing this happens is when I remove the actual CMOS battery. Is there some BOIS settings backup that kicks into place when I use the jumper?

Is it normal for the DRAM_LED to light up for about 2 seconds when you turn on the computer?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15408046*
> Overclocking has never been easier
> You can get 4.2GHz without bumping voltages (at least that's it in my case)
> Just put the core multiplier 42 and BLCK @100MHz and "presto changio" you all set.
> AI suites interface is quite understandable, easy to work with. But the auto OC feature should work also although I've never used it.


Thank you..

Actually now i have a better undestanding over OCing via BIOS but at first i might just go with this method.

Perhaps i will OC and change the voltage if i ever need it in the future.

But again, i might just do it tomorrow.

Sux to be undecided.


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trippen Out;15407886*
> yea but during that 12 hours you hit your peak temp and thats what im wondering was how long it takes to hit that temp. this way i will know that i dont have to worry about temps and can just let it do its thing.


I got mine between 2 and 3 hours testing. But normally when the temperatures are going to high the processor is trottling back. I have a lazy core 1, he is lagging some cycles, 4.6 is to high. My processor runs now 4.5, I can boot it on 5.1 (VCC = 1.640V) but than temps are going sky high. Proof of 12 hours Prime95:


----------



## SkillzKillz

Will the Asus P8P67 Pro support 22nm Ivy Bridge Processors? Also, will it be able to run full Pci-Express 3.0 in the future or will it be a gimped version?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkillzKillz;15410489*
> Will the Asus P8P67 Pro support 22nm Ivy Bridge Processors? Also, will it be able to run full Pci-Express 3.0 in the future or will it be a gimped version?


If I understand correctly we will be able to run IVY chips but we wouldn't be able to utilize all of it's new features for example PCI-E 3.0
On the other hand the newer Z68 chipset boards (some of them) and also the ones that have native support for PCI-E 3.0 will be able to run.
Correct me if I'm wrong but that's the way I understand this.


----------



## k0smo86

I have a 2600k and ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 on its way. Cannot wait!!


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar;15409306*
> I got mine between 2 and 3 hours testing. But normally when the temperatures are going to high the processor is trottling back. I have a lazy core 1, he is lagging some cycles, 4.6 is to high. My processor runs now 4.5, I can boot it on 5.1 (VCC = 1.640V) but than temps are going sky high. Proof of 12 hours Prime95:


nice i just finished an occt at 4.7 and 78 was my max temp with an hour of occt. im going to prime it later tonight


----------



## spritepr

Hi, this is my first post on the forums but I have been lurking around for a little while. I am currently working on a new build with an i5 2500 k and the P8Z68-V Pro motherboard. I was wondering if it would be ok to purchase 1.65 V ram?

I've been reading about how supposedly 1.65 v ram is at the top voltage range for SB and I have read a variety of opinions on it being safe/unsafe and am currently confused on what to accept as fact.

I'm currently looking at this set: http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=349260&CatId=10


Also read that some guy burned up his mobo by turning on the TPU switch/ used Auto-Overclock/ etc. Which method would be the most recommended for someone with low overclocking experience? I have only overclocked by raising the CPU multiplier and have pretty much no idea on what to set any of the other settings. I saw a guide to P67 overclocking on the P8P67 so I assume it should be the same on the P8Z68?

I would appreciate some opinions/help.

Thanks


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


I'm currently looking at this set: http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=349260&CatId=10



It's $15 cheaper here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820104246

_But_, I'd go with this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231460 any day over that Kingston.


----------



## piskooooo

Fixed my problem by getting the CPU/Mobo replaced (<3 Amazon, they replaced both in a day for free!). Everything is great now, sitting at 4.8GHz stable and might try to push 4.9 later.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


What is the default value of VCCIO when it is set to Auto in the BIOS?

When I clear the RTC RAM by using the jumper in the motherboard, I get "press F1 to recover settings" during POST. And when I press F1, it still has all settings and time intact. Is this normal? I expect it to lose all the settings, right? The only thing this happens is when I remove the actual CMOS battery. Is there some BOIS settings backup that kicks into place when I use the jumper?

Is it normal for the DRAM_LED to light up for about 2 seconds when you turn on the computer?


Anyobdy knows about this?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


This is where i am at now. after reading a lot of info in this thread. My question is while running prime 95. about how far into it will have to go before you see the max temp your gonna hit period? this is a pic of my current test and the max temps ive hit so far, on average they seam to stay about 69c or so.

yeah i know its kinda hard to read


It's so hard to read that I didn't even bother looking for longer than 2 seconds. I'm sorry for asking, but why do you have it like that if it is even hard for *you* to see/read?

Anyway, the maximum temp is only about 1-3 degrees higher than the max temp you see during a quick 10-minute run.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iARDAs*


Finally the correct thread.
Hey there folks.

I asked this questions in a wrong thread and asking them here again

I currently have a Asus p8Z68V-LE motherboard. It is coming tomorrow with my new desktop

I asked it in a different topic but i did not get answers.


But you only waited about 2 hours. Here on Overclock.net, it's better to wait 12-24 hours.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iARDAs*


Do you have the CD installed in your desktops? The CD that came with the motherboard?

Can i overclock the CPU safely with this software?

Is there a guide in this motherboard that explains how to overclock?

Thank you all in advance.


Here are my answers to the thread you posted in the Intel Motherboards forum:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post15412998

Here it is, copy/pasted:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iARDAs*


I will be receiving my desktop tomorrow.

It has a P8Z68V-LE motherboard...

1-) I believe there is a new bios update for this motherboard that was released 10th of this month. I doubt that my motherboard has that latest bios. First how can i check if it does or not and second how can i update my bios?


The BIOS version number is seen in the UEFI's "EZ Mode" right at the top just to the right of the big digital clock they have in there. It can also be seen in Advanced Mode in the "Main" tab.

If you want to update the BIOS, then it's very easily done using a USB flash drive and the built-in EZ Flash 2 Utility (in the UEFI, under the Tools tab).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iARDAs*


2-) Should i install everything in the CD?


No, because then you will end up with things you don't need or want.

However, I recommend installing newer versions directly from ASUS' website; but again, don't just get _everything_. Only download and install what you need.

For example: let's say that you won't be using the onboard audio. If that were to be the case, then you wouldn't install it (or even download it).

Or let's say that you're not going to be using USB 3.0 at all (or ever in the future). So then you would not install the USB 3.0 driver.

Or let's say that you will be using your own ethernet card instead of the onboard LAN jack. If that were to be true, then you would not install the "LAN" driver (the Realtek LAN driver).

Way too many people are just blindly installing absolutely everything and then they come back and complain that things are starting with Windows that they don't want; and usually want to know how they got there in the first place. Don't be one of those guys.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iARDAs*


3-) Can you guys easily overclock your GPU and CPU with the TPU ( The Ultimate Turbo Processor?)

Thanks in advance.


It's talking about the integrated GPU in the CPU, not your video card.









Besides, you're on Overclock.net, so I recommend doing all of your overclocking manually in the UEFI.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Hi, this is my first post on the forums but I have been lurking around for a little while. I am currently working on a new build with an i5 2500 k and the P8Z68-V Pro motherboard. I was wondering if it would be ok to purchase 1.65 V ram?

I've been reading about how supposedly 1.65 v ram is at the top voltage range for SB and I have read a variety of opinions on it being safe/unsafe and am currently confused on what to accept as fact.

I'm currently looking at this set: http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=349260&CatId=10


Also read that some guy burned up his mobo by turning on the TPU switch/ used Auto-Overclock/ etc. Which method would be the most recommended for someone with low overclocking experience? I have only overclocked by raising the CPU multiplier and have pretty much no idea on what to set any of the other settings. I saw a guide to P67 overclocking on the P8P67 so I assume it should be the same on the P8Z68?

I would appreciate some opinions/help.

Thanks


Using 1.65V memory is safe, but can you buy from Newegg? I mean if so, then you will have dozens of better choices among 1.5V memory.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


What is the default value of VCCIO when it is set to Auto in the BIOS?


Set it to Auto and find out.









I think the value you get when it's set to Auto may be determined by your DRAM voltage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


When I clear the RTC RAM by using the jumper in the motherboard, I get "press F1 to recover settings" during POST. And when I press F1, it still has all settings and time intact. Is this normal? I expect it to lose all the settings, right? The only thing this happens is when I remove the actual CMOS battery. Is there some BOIS settings backup that kicks into place when I use the jumper?


I don't know. However, all F1 is doing is _recovering_ settings. It's probably loading your previous values.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Is it normal for the DRAM_LED to light up for about 2 seconds when you turn on the computer?


Probably. I don't know.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


It's so hard to read that I didn't even bother looking for longer than 2 seconds. I'm sorry for asking, but why do you have it like that if it is even hard for *you* to see/read?


its a side affect of one the custom themes im running. i havnt taken the time to dig it out and change it so i can read it much better. but the temps were easy enough to read. since then ive backed it down a little bit. right now im at 4.7ghz stable. I used your template but ended up making a lot of changes. for the the cpu pll gimmick when turned on allows me to boot into windows at a much lower vcore and i think im only at .015 for my offset. other then that thanks for sharing the template.

i think 4.7 on a 24 dollar air cooler with a single fan isnt to bad. I cant wait to get some "real" cooling because ive already posted over 5ghz with the chip and im looking forward to see how far this board can push it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Set it to Auto and find out.









I think the value you get when it's set to Auto may be determined by your DRAM voltage.

What is "the RTC RAM"?

I don't know. However, all F1 is doing is _recovering_ settings. It's probably loading your previous values.

Probably. I don't know.


If set to Auto, would the VCCIO be higher if there are four sticks of RAM compared to just two sticks?

RTC RAM is Real Time Clock RAM. Based on my mobo's manual, that is where the CMOS date, time, and system setup parameters are saved.

When I press F1, where does it copy the "recovery settings" from?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


its a side affect of one the custom themes im running. i havnt taken the time to dig it out and change it so i can read it much better. but the temps were easy enough to read. since then ive backed it down a little bit. right now im at 4.7ghz stable. I used your template but ended up making a lot of changes. for the the cpu pll gimmick when turned on allows me to boot into windows at a much lower vcore and i think im only at .015 for my offset. other then that thanks for sharing the template.

i think 4.7 on a 24 dollar air cooler with a single fan isnt to bad. I cant wait to get some "real" cooling because ive already posted over 5ghz with the chip and im looking forward to see how far this board can push it.


Now try Real Temp 3.67 which is optimized for Sandy Bridge.









What core voltage were you getting in the "dark" screenshot you posted earlier?


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Now try Real Temp 3.67 which is optimized for Sandy Bridge.









What core voltage were you getting in the "dark" screenshot you posted earlier?



i dont remember. heres what i have now in my cpu-z

under load. its 1.376 - 1.384
4.7ghz 
100x47
i passed occt 1 hour with these settings.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


i dont remember. heres what i have now in my cpu-z

under load. its 1.376 - 1.384
4.7ghz 
100x47
i passed occt 1 hour with these settings.


Looks like very similar Vcore needed for my 2600K at 4.7GHz.. I've tested it almost 48 hours Prime95 custom 6000MB Blend stable at 4.7GHz, HT On and in the 1.384v Vcore range (+ 0.025 Offset and LLC Ultra High).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


i dont remember. heres what i have now in my cpu-z

under load. its 1.376 - 1.384
4.7ghz 
100x47
i passed occt 1 hour with these settings.


If you are getting 1.376V to 1.384V, then that must be what you had in that screenshot.

Not bad temps, I guess.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


If you are getting 1.376V to 1.384V, then that must be what you had in that screenshot.

Not bad temps, I guess.










i think the screen shot had 1.39 as the low end. i checked the real temp it gave me the same readings as speed fan so not much difference at least not enough for me to change monitoring programs. i also like my rain meter for speed fan as well. which can be seen on the pic i posted

edit:

the screens hot posted showed a 1.39 and it bounces to 1.41 or something like that. i was also running 47 x 103 which gave me 4.88 but the temps were just to much


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


i think the screen shot had 1.39 as the low end. i checked the real temp it gave me the same readings as speed fan so not much difference at least not enough for me to change monitoring programs. i also like my rain meter for speed fan as well. which can be seen on the pic i posted

edit:

the screens hot posted showed a 1.39 and it bounces to 1.41 or something like that. i was also running 47 x 103 which gave me 4.88 but the temps were just to much


What temps did you get at 47 x 103?


----------



## Fortunex

Just got my P8P67 Vanilla, and I'm really liking the EFI. I haven't really tried playing around with it yet, as I'm trying to get into diamond league in SC2 for the start of season 4 on monday, but I was just messing around, went into the EFI, set it to a 42x multi, hit the auto OC tuner, and now I've got a 4.326MHz turbo at 1.26v, max temps under IBT were 63* on my Hyper 212+, and my fans aren't even close to maxed out (gotta figure out how to change the fan speed profiles in the EFI, I'd like them to ramp up to 100% under load, not the 60-70% that they do now, and yeah I'm on the performance fan preset).

Having/had some issues with double/triple booting though, I flashed to the newest EFI and it seems to have gone away, but I've only restarted twice.

So anyway, EFI is great, auto overclock tuner is actually useful for me because this is my first Intel build and sandy bridge overclocking is a lot more complicated (or at least there's a lot more options) than AM3, and I don't have the time to learn everything ATM. Double/triple boots suck and kinda scared me at first, but I've fixed or will fix that. And having to install the LAN drivers from the CD sucks, used to it working out fo the box, but that's not a big deal. Overall very happy with the board.

Quick question: Is there any downside to only overclocking the turbo? It seems to stay at 4.3GHz as soon as there's any load over like 5%, which is good (don't want it fluctuating while I'm playing any games). Will the constant voltage/clock speed fluctations damage anything?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fortunex*


Just got my P8P67 Vanilla, and I'm really liking the EFI. I haven't really tried playing around with it yet, as I'm trying to get into diamond league in SC2 for the start of season 4 on monday, but I was just messing around, went into the EFI, set it to a 42x multi, hit the auto OC tuner, and now I've got a 4.326MHz turbo at 1.26v, max temps under IBT were 63* on my Hyper 212+, and my fans aren't even close to maxed out (gotta figure out how to change the fan speed profiles in the EFI, I'd like them to ramp up to 100% under load, not the 60-70% that they do now, and yeah I'm on the performance fan preset).

Having/had some issues with double/triple booting though, I flashed to the newest EFI and it seems to have gone away, but I've only restarted twice.

So anyway, EFI is great, auto overclock tuner is actually useful for me because this is my first Intel build and sandy bridge overclocking is a lot more complicated (or at least there's a lot more options) than AM3, and I don't have the time to learn everything ATM. Double/triple boots suck and kinda scared me at first, but I should be able to remedy that. Overall very happy with the board.

Quick question: Is there any downside to only overclocking the turbo? It seems to stay at 4.3GHz as soon as there's any load over like 5%, which is good (don't want it fluctuating while I'm playing any games). Will the constant voltage/clock speed fluctations damage anything?


The dynamic adjustments to the clock speed and core voltage is very very desirable and very safe. These Sandy Bridge CPUs do an _excellent_ (and perfect) job at it.

Regarding Sandy Bridge overclocking being complicated: believe it or not, it is actually very simple even though there are many options in the UEFI to adjust. For example: overclocking to 4.5 GHz is usually possibly by simply increasing the multiplier to 45 and increasing the core voltage just a little. So there is no downside to doing all of your overclocking with the multiplier unless you are one of those people who want it to be complicated (there are people who have complained that Sandy Bridge overclocking is too easy). If you ever decide that you want it to get more complicated, then start fine-tuning by increasing the BCLK in tiny increments.

Finally: what do you mean by double or triple booting? Is it turning off for a moment and then turning back on?


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


What temps did you get at 47 x 103?


80 81 before i stopped the test and let it cool down.

this is my latest cpuz i set the offset to .005. and it gives me 1.384 im trying to find an offset that will get me around 1.35-1.36

edit: i guess it doesnt matter because i got a 000124 code. so its probably vcore


----------



## Fortunex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


The dynamic adjustments to the clock speed and core voltage is very very desirable and very safe. These Sandy Bridge CPUs do an _excellent_ (and perfect) job at it.

Regarding Sandy Bridge overclocking being complicated: believe it or not, it is actually very simple even though there are many options in the UEFI to adjust. For example: overclocking to 4.5 GHz is usually possibly by simply increasing the multiplier to 45 and increasing the core voltage just a little. So there is no downside to doing all of your overclocking with the multiplier unless you are one of those people who want it to be complicated (there are people who have complained that Sandy Bridge overclocking is too easy). If you ever decide that you want it to get more complicated, then start fine-tuning by increasing the BCLK in tiny increments.

Finally: what do you mean by double or triple booting? Is it turning off for a moment and then turning back on?


It seems like it can be simple, but to really fine-tune, there's a lot more to do than on my AM3 rig.

And it'll power on, but won't POST, it'll just restart again after a couple seconds, and maybe a third time, before POSTing and continuing as usual. No error messages or anything. Seems to be a fairly common problem with P8P67 boards.


----------



## kevindd992002

What is the difference between the P8Z68-V Vanilla vs. the original one?


----------



## nekromantik

Yeah my Pro board powers on and then switches off and then starts again.
It dont do it 3 times however.


----------



## Fortunex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


What is the difference between the P8Z68-V Vanilla vs. the original one?


Vanilla means original/baseline, so the P8Z68-V _is_ the original/vanilla model. Unless I'm misunderstanding your question.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nekromantik*


Yeah my Pro board powers on and then switches off and then starts again.
It dont do it 3 times however.


I think it only did it 3 times after I went into sleep mode, it does/did it twice, otherwise.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


80 81 before i stopped the test and let it cool down.

this is my latest cpuz i set the offset to .005. and it gives me 1.384 im trying to find an offset that will get me around 1.35-1.36

edit: i guess it doesnt matter because i got a 000124 code. so its probably vcore


Those are still very safe temperatures though.

Was it 80-81 in IBT or Prime95?

If you want a lower core voltage, then use a negative offset.


----------



## spritepr

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*   It's $15 cheaper here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820104246

_But_, I'd go with this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231460 any day over that Kingston.  
Would this one be good enough:

  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TGJTRQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A27NB1DIW9JKG5

I am currently debating either buying that one or the one you linked me to since the cheapest shipping option for me at newegg is 2 day which would bring the price to around 81 dollars.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Would this one be good enough:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A27NB1DIW9JKG5

I am currently debating either buying that one or the one you linked me to since the cheapest shipping option for me at newegg is 2 day which would bring the price to around 81 dollars.


That memory you linked from Amazon.com is $49.99 shipped from Newegg:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231416


----------



## valkyrie743

i would go with corsair. ive used 5 of these kits in recent builds for people and never had issues with them. plus they are lower profile while are good if you have a big HSF.
.........................................................................................................................

can anyone provide me a picture of a P8P67-Pro with 2 480gtx's in sli (or 2 2-slot video cards in sli). i want to see the spacing between the cards. I plan on upgrading my computer with another 480gtx to sli (for battlefield 3) and i want to know if my second card will be right up against the first card or it will have a little room? Plus i use a standard PCI sound card (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102003) and would want to see if i would have to dump it and use the on board audio or buy a pci express 1x sound card.


----------



## iARDAs

@ Two cables...

Thank you so much for your time and answers. Being in this community in one day made me a better person in understanding the bios and the motherboard all together. My rig will be her in few hours and I am dying ot OC it... I learned how to use the EZ Flash utility easily via youtube. It really is a walk in the park. And i finally decided to overclock my CPU via the BIOS which is not such a hard feat as well since I am not going to be overclocking the CPU in insane levels.

Thank you for your time


----------



## dafour

Hmm what can i believe?

Bios temp says 25c for cpu ,coretemp says 35c ,hwmonitor also 25c.
Aida then again says 35c...

Got the cpu/mb/ram combo 3 days now and i'm still not sure about temps.I even have the CPUTIN temp always on 60c,low its 6c?

Anyone with these weird stuff?


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spritepr;15415746*
> Would this one be good enough:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TGJTRQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A27NB1DIW9JKG5
> 
> I am currently debating either buying that one or the one you linked me to since the cheapest shipping option for me at newegg is 2 day which would bring the price to around 81 dollars.


Notice the one I linked to you though for the same price on NewEgg. It's DDR3-*1866*, yet has the same voltage/timings.









Ouch $81 shipped? Are you in Canada or overseas?


----------



## turrican9

Glad to report we have another P8P67 EVO owner on the list. I welcome, *ZeusAudio*


----------



## Krully

I guess I should include myself in this club also.

Got the parts yesterday, all installed today.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krully;15418249*
> I guess I should include myself in this club also.
> 
> Got the parts yesterday, all installed today.


Added to the Club!







Also posted a link to your post


----------



## nekromantik

nice looking rig Krully.

Good case for cable management, my CM 690 is hard keep tidy ha ha


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekromantik;15418640*
> nice looking rig Krully.
> 
> Good case for cable management, my CM 690 is hard keep tidy ha ha


My CM Storm Scout is also extremely hard for Cable Management.

Will try some effort soon though. Other than this, it is an awesome case


----------



## nekromantik

my main cable issues is the 8 pin power connector.
the cable is not long enough to run around the back of the case so dangles near the SA heatsink towards the rear.


----------



## Krully

Thanks for the praises guys,

It's a great case for cables management and too look clean, but behind the mobo is a nightmare and sometimes hard to close. Still a damn fine case!
My old case was a thermaltake Armor A90 and uugh the pain! next time I'll get a full tower of some sort and try my luck with WC and all the bells and whistles.

The Z68 seems like a great toy to have some fun with. I'm not keen on trying out the Auto tune function that Asus supplied(heard bad things about it).

I am curious about something and this seems like a good place to ask.
I have found a mobo WC block at the Koolroom and was wondering if anyone has used it or could reccomend another one instead?
Link to OCN post.
Link to koolroom block.


----------



## kevindd992002

Does my motherboard have a backup BIOS? Because when I short the CLRTC jumper, it boots with the "press F1 to recover settings" and when I press that it shows all my settings again BEFORE shorting out that jumper. Even the time is retained. Shorting out that jumper should reset all settings (including time) right? The only time it resets everything is when I remove the CMOS battery. What is happening here?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15419312*
> Does my motherboard have a backup BIOS? Because when I short the CLRTC jumper, it boots with the "press F1 to recover settings" and when I press that it shows all my settings again BEFORE shorting out that jumper. Even the time is retained. Shorting out that jumper should reset all settings (including time) right? The only time it resets everything is when I remove the CMOS battery. What is happening here?


Based on what the manual says, it looks like this is only for recovering your previous settings.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15419334*
> Based on what the manual says, it looks like this is only for recovering your previous settings.


When you say "previous" how previous are those settings? Because the settings that are recovered are exactly the settings before I short out the jumper.


----------



## TwoCables

Well, what are you trying to accomplish? I mean, why are you trying to do this? What happened that made you want to do it?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15419363*
> Well, what are you trying to accomplish? I mean, why are you trying to do this? What happened that made you want to do it?


I upgraded my BIOS and I was accustomed since before that I clear my CMOS RAM after doing so. This is the first time I've noticed such behavior from my motherboard. Not that I'm saying something's wrong with it but I was curious why it's doing such.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15419383*
> I upgraded my BIOS and I was accustomed since before that I clear my CMOS RAM after doing so. This is the first time I've noticed such behavior from my motherboard. Not that I'm saying something's wrong with it but I was curious why it's doing such.


I don't know, but this is not necessary when updating the BIOS because it's not doing anything (nor _would_ it do anything actually). At the most, just load optimized defaults (press F5) before and after.


----------



## Trippen Out

I went to sleep about 130am last night. set it up for 4.7ghz and ran prime95 all night. its now basically 11am. when i started my ambient temps were 61f and now they are 74f. all night and the max temp hit was 82c. at these settings when i play combat arms i hit around 45c.

I'm pretty much thinking this is as far as i can go with this cooler and chip because of thermal limits. later today sometime ill post up my bios settings. maybe there's something i can try that i haven't though of yet that will let me lower the Vcore some more and maybe push a little high. from what i understand tho. I'm right at the normal average Vcore for 4.7 so who knows.










Guess i should post a screen shot that shows the start. or meh. ill just end the test. i know some people around here like 12 hours. but its football day and i wanna get a couple games of combat arms in before kick off. so i guess its my official unofficial stable over clock. ill back with an edit for the other picture

edit:

looks like it was 9 hours 4 minutes. i remember back in the day. you only needed 8hr of prime to be official


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15419402*
> I don't know, but this is not necessary when updating the BIOS because it's not doing anything (nor _would_ it do anything actually). At the most, just load optimized defaults (press F5) before and after.


Oh ok, didn't know that. Thanks for the info.

Do you know anything about updating the MEI firmware?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15419794*
> Oh ok, didn't know that. Thanks for the info.
> 
> Do you know anything about updating the MEI firmware?


The what?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15419797*
> The what?


The Intel Management Engine Interface firmware. We were talking about flashing it to a newer version on the asus z68 driver information thread. You can see your "ME Firmware version" on the details section of your BIOS.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15419931*
> The Intel Management Engine Interface firmware. We were talking about flashing it to a newer version on the asus z68 driver information thread. You can see your "ME Firmware version" on the details section of your BIOS.


Oh that. I don't know. I don't even remember what that's for. I remember seeing software for it get installed, I remember Googling it, and I remember uninstalling it based on what I learned. However, I don't remember what I learned; I just remember learning that I didn't need it...


----------



## turrican9

Finally fixed cable management in my CM Storm Scout. Very hard to hide cables in this case.

Sorry for the poor image quality. Only have a 2MPixel mobile phone.


----------



## spritepr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


That memory you linked from Amazon.com is $49.99 shipped from Newegg:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231416


"Additional fees may apply for shipments to APO/FPO, AK, HI and PR."

I live in PR and just for that I have to pay half the cost of the memory in shipping :/


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


"Additional fees may apply for shipments to APO/FPO, AK, HI and PR."

I live in PR and just for that I have to pay half the cost of the memory in shipping :/


Oh. I can't tell because your profile only says "United States".


----------



## spritepr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Oh. I can't tell because your profile only says "United States".


Sorry, I just changed it like two minutes ago, but technically that is still true.

Anyway is the only difference between this board and the older z68 the PCI 3.0 express slots?

P8Z68-V Pro GEN3


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Sorry, I just changed it like two minutes ago, but technically that is still true.

Anyway is the only difference between this board and the older z68 the PCI 3.0 express slots?

P8Z68-V Pro GEN3


I'm not sure where else to look for you. Might as well just stick with Amazon.

As far as those Gen3 boards, yeah from what I saw the pci-e 3.0 slots are the only differences. I was going to get the P8Z68-V/GEN3 version but ended up buying the P8Z68-V instead.


----------



## turrican9

I've added a alternative Club Signature in the first post of the owners Club. It goes like this:

*>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>*


----------



## spritepr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*


I'm not sure where else to look for you. Might as well just stick with Amazon.

As far as those Gen3 boards, yeah from what I saw the pci-e 3.0 slots are the only differences. I was going to get the P8Z68-V/GEN3 version but ended up buying the P8Z68-V instead.


Thanks for the info. As soon as I make a decision and have all the parts I will come back with some OC questions







.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Thanks for the info. As soon as I make a decision and have all the parts I will come back with some OC questions







.


You're welcome. Just don't ask me about oc'ing







I just tried a few things and ended up with bsod's. I'm sure others will be more informative.


----------



## dafour

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafour;15417886*
> Hmm what can i believe?
> 
> Bios temp says 25c for cpu ,coretemp says 35c ,hwmonitor also 25c.
> Aida then again says 35c...
> 
> Got the cpu/mb/ram combo 3 days now and i'm still not sure about temps.I even have the CPUTIN temp always on 60c,low its 6c?
> 
> Anyone with these weird stuff?


Some input on this?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet;15420576*
> You're welcome. Just don't ask me about oc'ing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just tried a few things and ended up with bsod's. I'm sure others will be more informative.


When would you usually get BSODs?


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


When would you usually get BSODs?


Right after the Windows splash screen. Didn't even get into the desktop. I posted in the other thread for our motherboards, asking if someone had a more comprehensive oc'ing and 'what to turn off in the bios' guide. I can't seem to find any good ones on google.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dafour*


Some input on this?


Here's what I experienced: The bios says one thing, Asus Suite II says another, CoreTemp says something else and RealTemp gives yet even other numbers. I gave up after trying all those.


----------



## vinter90

Hey, I'm totally new here, I found this site while searching Google.

I have major problems with my P8Z68-v Pro motherboard. I recently built my own computer (MSI GTX 570, Intel i5 2500k, 8GB RAM) and everything except the GPU is working. The card is plugged in, getting its electricity etc, but when I plug in the DVI cable I get no signal. At first I thought it was the GPU's fault, so I sent it back, but the company which I bought it from said it was working fine when they tested it. After that, I borrowed my brothers card (an older AMD card, HD 4600 series) and tried it in my computer, but his card didn't work either!

So I am quite positive it's the mobo that's acting wierd. I tried flashing to the most recent bios, but that didn't help. Is my motherboard broken? Can I do anything to fix it? Is this a known issue?

Help me please!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet;15420671*
> Right after the Windows splash screen. Didn't even get into the desktop. I posted in the other thread for our motherboards, asking if someone had a more comprehensive oc'ing and 'what to turn off in the bios' guide. I can't seem to find any good ones on google.
> 
> Here's what I experienced: The bios says one thing, Asus Suite II says another, CoreTemp says something else and RealTemp gives yet even other numbers. I gave up after trying all those.


Forgive me for not remembering, but how much help did you receive here in this thread? What kind of overclock were you trying?


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

Found a webshop here in Norway where the P8P67 EVO B3 was a little bit cheaper VS the P8P67 PRO B3, in the same webshop.

I'm tempted to buy a EVO for my second system.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*TwoCables*

Found a webshop here in Norway where the P8P67 EVO B3 was a little bit cheaper VS the P8P67 PRO B3, in the same webshop.

I'm tempted to buy a EVO for my second system.












Do it! Do it! Do it!

Do eet! hehe


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Forgive me for not remembering, but how much help did you receive here in this thread? What kind of overclock were you trying?


None actually.







I just went off SimpleTech's post here: http://www.overclock.net/15420559-post156.html where I quoted him. I tried for 4.7GHz following that mini guide.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*


None actually.







I just went off SimpleTech's post here: http://www.overclock.net/15420559-post156.html where I quoted him. I tried for 4.7GHz following that mini guide.


Oh. :/


----------



## spritepr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinter90*


Hey, I'm totally new here, I found this site while searching Google.

I have major problems with my P8Z68-v Pro motherboard. I recently built my own computer (MSI GTX 570, Intel i5 2500k, 8GB RAM) and everything except the GPU is working. The card is plugged in, getting its electricity etc, but when I plug in the DVI cable I get no signal. At first I thought it was the GPU's fault, so I sent it back, but the company which I bought it from said it was working fine when they tested it. After that, I borrowed my brothers card (an older AMD card, HD 4600 series) and tried it in my computer, but his card didn't work either!

So I am quite positive it's the mobo that's acting wierd. I tried flashing to the most recent bios, but that didn't help. Is my motherboard broken? Can I do anything to fix it? Is this a known issue?

Help me please!


Not an expert on this but did you try changing the card to another PCI-E 2.0 slot? Did you try testing the 570 on your brothers computer?


----------



## vinter90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Not an expert on this but did you try changing the card to another PCI-E 2.0 slot? Did you try testing the 570 on your brothers computer?


Yeah I tried putting it in the 2nd slot but that didn't work either. I can't try it in my brothers PC since it's not working atm. But I really think it's the motherboard that's broken. The card was working when the company I bought it from tested it. I just want to know if there's something I can do or is sending it back the only thing left to do?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinter90*


Yeah I tried putting it in the 2nd slot but that didn't work either. I can't try it in my brothers PC since it's not working atm. But I really think it's the motherboard that's broken. The card was working when the company I bought it from tested it. I just want to know if there's something I can do or is sending it back the only thing left to do?










Could it be your DVI cable? Try another DVI cable, or if you don't have one, try a VGA cable


----------



## vinter90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Could it be your DVI cable? Try another DVI cable, or if you don't have one, try a VGA cable


I tried with a VGA cable but that didn't work.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinter90*


I tried with a VGA cable but that didn't work.










Then could it be your monitor?


----------



## spritepr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinter90*


I tried with a VGA cable but that didn't work.










Try the mini hdmi connector? Pretty sure that card should have one. If all else fails try contacting ASUS/Vendor customer support.

Also thanks to everyone for the suggestions on the parts I have purchased them and they are currently on the way can't wait


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinter90*


I tried with a VGA cable but that didn't work.










Have you tried using onboard graphics?
Maybe there's a setting for discrete and onboard graphics configuration?


----------



## vinter90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Then could it be your monitor?


Nope I tried it in another moniter without any result.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


Have you tried using onboard graphics?
Maybe there's a setting for discrete and onboard graphics configuration?


Yeah the integrated graphics are working fine. I'm using them atm. But I've already tried some stuff in BIOS, like choosing PCI-E as first booting option etc. Don't know what else I can do?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinter90*


Nope I tried it in another moniter without any result.

Yeah the integrated graphics are working fine. I'm using them atm. But I've already tried some stuff in BIOS, like choosing PCI-E as first booting option etc. Don't know what else I can do?


Then you must RMA that board.


----------



## kevindd992002

What's special about the "EVO" boards?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


What's special about the "EVO" boards?


The P8P67 EVO fits in between the P8P67 PRO and P8P67 Deluxe boards. It has a few more features VS the PRO and a few less features VS the Deluxe.

Look at this chart










Other than the stuff listed in the chart, there are a few minor differences.


----------



## Erper

Hi guys, haven't been around lately...
I have bit wired problem and can't figure it out what is it.
Since Ive upgraded to p67 system I'm having weird problem when I'm doing multiple tasks. Let start with basics, when I want to unrar something, I have to wait for that to finish so I can start working on something else. Or when I copy cd to pc and open web browser web hangs out for few sec. Also if I'm not using second hdd it turns off itself.
I tried with different hdd since ive 3 of them and same thing happpen


----------



## maxmekker

I've been having some trouble getting my Maximus Gene-z z68 board running stable 
with my stuff( have a look at the signature) I'm on my second board, 3'd bunch of mem sticks.
vengenace tested on sabertooth card and ran the xmp profil with no problem. on my card it wont even boot. I've tried dominator and other vengeance sticks on sabertooth, running stable, insert on my gene-z, it wont even boot at xmp, and on all auto in bios, but mem speed set to 133, I can get lucky , ore it will give me the overklock fail. Setting things manuially ( volt speed timings) is no godd either.

Anyway, I'm getting the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO card as and ahead replacement for my gene-z. Anyone using the RED vengenance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9R on this board, ore can give me a head's up on other stick I can request to this board.
Corsair , Kingstone ore crucial( are the brands they have) , with xmp profil.

thanks a bunch.


----------



## turrican9

*Chuckclc*, a former AMD owner, and now a Intel 2500K/ASUS P8Z68-V Owner, added to the Club. Welcome!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


I've been having some trouble getting my Maximus Gene-z z68 board running stable 
with my stuff( have a look at the signature) I'm on my second board, 3'd bunch of mem sticks.
vengenace tested on sabertooth card and ran the xmp profil with no problem. on my card it wont even boot. I've tried dominator and other vengeance sticks on sabertooth, running stable, insert on my gene-z, it wont even boot at xmp, and on all auto in bios, but mem speed set to 133, I can get lucky , ore it will give me the overklock fail. Setting things manuially ( volt speed timings) is no godd either.

Anyway, I'm getting the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO card as and ahead replacement for my gene-z. Anyone using the RED vengenance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9R on this board, ore can give me a head's up on other stick I can request to this board.
Corsair , Kingstone ore crucial( are the brands they have) , with xmp profil.

thanks a bunch.


Calling it "motherboard" rather than "card" is more appropriate, just FYI, no offsense meant


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


I've been having some trouble getting my Maximus Gene-z z68 board running stable 
with my stuff( have a look at the signature) I'm on my second board, 3'd bunch of mem sticks.
vengenace tested on sabertooth card and ran the xmp profil with no problem. on my card it wont even boot. I've tried dominator and other vengeance sticks on sabertooth, running stable, insert on my gene-z, it wont even boot at xmp, and on all auto in bios, but mem speed set to 133, I can get lucky , ore it will give me the overklock fail. Setting things manuially ( volt speed timings) is no godd either.

Anyway, I'm getting the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO card as and ahead replacement for my gene-z. Anyone using the RED vengenance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9R on this board, ore can give me a head's up on other stick I can request to this board.
Corsair , Kingstone ore crucial( are the brands they have) , with xmp profil.

thanks a bunch.


I'm using the Black version of that excact same kit for my P8P67 PRO B3 board. No problems. I even run them at 1600 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v instead of it's rated XMP: 1600 9-9-9-24-2t-1.5v.

I think alot of people are using this set, only in different colours, for their ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 systems... Not heard of any incompatability problems yet.

I also built a MIVE Gene-Z system for a friend the other day, using those excact same red sticks. No problems at all. System was 100% Blend stable at 1600 9-9-9-24-1t (Yes I ran it at 1t instead of 2t).


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


Hi guys, haven't been around lately... 
I have bit wired problem and can't figure it out what is it.
Since Ive upgraded to p67 system I'm having weird problem when I'm doing multiple tasks. Let start with basics, when I want to unrar something, I have to wait for that to finish so I can start working on something else. Or when I copy cd to pc and open web browser web hangs out for few sec. Also if I'm not using second hdd it turns off itself. 
I tried with different hdd since ive 3 of them and same thing happpen


Go to power options and advanced power options and disable sleep for harddrives if you don't want it to sleep. Or set a longer time interval for it.

If you're trying to write multiple things to one harddrive at the same time, that will definetiely slow you down.

Harddrives are the biggest bottleneck there is for PC's. That is why more and more people buy SSD's for their OS isntall, installed programs and games.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I'm using the Black version of that excact same kit for my P8P67 PRO B3 board. No problems. I even run them at 1600 8-8-8-24-1t-1.5v instead of it's rated XMP: 1600 9-9-9-24-2t-1.5v.

I think alot of people are using this set, only in different colours, for their ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 systems... Not heard of any incompatability problems yet.

I also built a MIVE Gene-Z system for a friend the other day, using those excact same red sticks. No problems at all. Sytem was 100% Blend stable at 1600 9-9-9-24-1t (Yes I ran it at 1t instead of 2t).


Would 1T be better than 2T?


----------



## Erper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Go to power options and advanced power options and disable sleep for harddrives if you don't want it to sleep. Or set a longer time interval for it.

If you're trying to write multiple things to one harddrive at the same time, that will definetiely slow you down.

Harddrives are the biggest bottleneck there is for PC's. That is why more and more people buy SSD's for their OS isntall, installed programs and games.


ok, i understand option for power management, but sayin that on s775 i didnt have those problems that ive described


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


ok, i understand option for power management, but sayin that on s775 i didnt have those problems that ive described


What could it be then.. ?

Make sure your harddrives are plugged in the Intel native SATA Connectors.. The 4 light blue SATA2 and/or the 2 white Sata3 Connectors. Stay away from the Marvell (Navy Blue ones) until you used all other connectors.

Also, are you overclocking? If so, try setting all back to stock and see if the problem persists.

Also, have you ran memtest to check your RAM is Okay?


----------



## Erper

hdd and 1 sata dvd is in blue... the frond hdd connection is in connected into next sata...
as for marvel, they are free...
it is OC to 4.1 but it doesnt affect anything cause pc is idle most of the time...
ram is fine, no problems with it


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


hdd and 1 sata dvd is in blue... the frond hdd connection is in connected into next sata...
as for marvel, they are free...
it is OC to 4.1 but it doesnt affect anything cause pc is idle most of the time...
ram is fine, no problems with it


Software problem? Did you reinstall windows when upgrading from previous 775 system?


----------



## Erper

Yes I did , 3 times since July and still have same problem... I was thinking that psu might have some connection with it but can't be that sure.


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Calling it "motherboard" rather than "card" is more appropriate, just FYI, no offsense meant










Sure.Ore MB .At work, trying to be fast on the forums before my boss walks in on me









Thanks T9, I don't know why I'm struggeling so much, you maybe read my latest post at the vengeance tread ?

last 3 post's:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...closed-16.html

and the latest test I did over at a friends last week.
seemed like they did get a kick start after they were xmp'd in the sabertooth MB, but it lasted untill friday (all auto 1333 mem speed)

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post15381661


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


Sure.Ore MB .At work, trying to be fast on the forums before my boss walks in on me









Thanks T9, I don't know why I'm struggeling so much, you maybe read my latest post at the vengeance tread ?

last 3 post's:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...closed-16.html

and the latest test I did over at a friends last week.
seemed like they did get a kick start after they were xmp'd in the sabertooth MB, but it lasted untill friday (all auto 1333 mem speed)

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post15381661


Yes, I've read all those posts.

You have been very unlucky. Maybe you got a bad batch of MIVE Gene-Z boards... Did you update to the latest MIVE bios?

I flashed the latest 0706 MIVE Gene-Z bios on my friends motherboard, even before I installed Windows. It was totally flawless with that 2x4GB Red Corsair Vengeance Kit -1600 9-9-9-24-1t-1.5v. Keep in mind, I always set them manually. I never tried to select XMP, and have never done so.


----------



## kevindd992002

Why does ASUS Suite II Sensor software show the fan icon beside Chassis 2 as greyed out. Here's the pic:










What does it mean?


----------



## neonraver

Still having problems







I have managed to get my settings almost correct but I have one annying thing. When in idle my voltages jump all over the place. down to 0.9v, up to 1.32v. Now, they do stay down the bottom end most of the time but the weird thing is, in prime, my top voltage is 1.28v (I now have my CPU OCd to 4.5GHz). My idle temps fluctuate more than they used to too. Its not a massive problem, but its a bit annoying. Obviously speedstep is working, but should I be seeing such fluctuations?


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Yes, I've read all those posts.

You have been very unlucky. Maybe you got a bad batch of MIVE Gene-Z boards... Did you update to the latest MIVE bios?

I flashed the latest 0706 MIVE Gene-Z bios on my friends motherboard, even before I installed Windows. It was totally flawless with that 2x4GB Red Corsair Vengeance Kit -1600 9-9-9-24-1t-1.5v. Keep in mind, I always set them manually. I never tried to select XMP, and have never done so.


latest bios yes.I have a friend that built 4 machines with this mb , and recomended it to me. he knows it inside out, but lives a tad away from me so it's been mail help, but he ran out of ideas. Crossing my fingers for the new MB , and hoping it's not the cpu,but I have been all over it with a loupe many times and it's flawless. I have manually sat the timings and volt etc many times( as you can see in the post and pictures)but with no luck.

Strange thing is that on friday I sat the cpu to 4,2, and xmp profil 
on the sticks (9999242t 1600 1,5v) in bios(no auto tuning from ai suit) and it ran great, benchmark, crysis 2 and I let it stay on for many hours, and then I came back, surfed arround the net , and within minut's it shut down, restarted and came up with the 'overclock fail page'. Temps were fine . But if I remember correct, it's been several times it just shuts down during surfing, clicking the next ore back button on the browser. power is corsair 750w so it should be ok.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


latest bios yes.I have a friend that built 4 machines with this mb , and recomended it to me. he knows it inside out, but lives a tad away from me so it's been mail help, but he ran out of ideas. Crossing my fingers for the new MB , and hoping it's not the cpu,but I have been all over it with a loupe many times and it's flawless. I have manually sat the timings and volt etc many times( as you can see in the post and pictures)but with no luck.

Strange thing is that on friday I sat the cpu to 4,2, and xmp profil 
on the sticks (9999242t 1600 1,5v) in bios(no auto tuning from ai suit) and it ran great, benchmark, crysis 2 and I let it stay on for many hours, and then I came back, surfed arround the net , and within minut's it shut down, restarted and came up with the 'overclock fail page'. Temps were fine . But if I remember correct, it's been several times it just shuts down during surfing, clicking the next ore back button on the browser. power is corsair 750w so it should be ok.


So you never tried ruling out your PSU?


----------



## Erper

So any other sugestion beside software?????


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15435333*
> So you never tried ruling out your PSU?


Well I have faith in my psu. Corsair 750w, going strong for almot 3 years in my old pc, never once a BS ore crash.

but we fluked (fluke 125) it at load, messure 12,++v and 5,++v . I don't know if that matters, but my friend had it and we tried it.

But yeah, we did swopp out mine with his, Corsair 750w/tx and a ax.

same stuff, stable at all auto, mem speed set to 1066. no trouble, going 4 a week, but if I set mem speed to 1333. it will, either stay stable, for a week, and then suddenly restart, ore black screen.


----------



## grandpatzer

If I run X8 X8 X4 on three 6950 2gb and 5760*1080.

Would I see big performance hit?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxmekker;15437439*
> Well I have faith in my psu. Corsair 750w, going strong for almot 3 years in my old pc, never once a BS ore crash.
> 
> but we fluked (fluke 125) it at load, messure 12,++v and 5,++v . I don't know if that matters, but my friend had it and we tried it.
> 
> But yeah, we did swopp out mine with his, Corsair 750w/tx and a ax.
> 
> same stuff, stable at all auto, mem speed set to 1066. no trouble, going 4 a week, but if I set mem speed to 1333. it will, either stay stable, for a week, and then suddenly restart, ore black screen.


Tried moving your system to another room or something? Maybe there is something which gives electromagnetic interference or something nearby where you have your PC??


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxmekker;15437439*
> Well I have faith in my psu. Corsair 750w, going strong for almot 3 years in my old pc, never once a BS ore crash.
> 
> but we fluked (fluke 125) it at load, messure 12,++v and 5,++v . I don't know if that matters, but my friend had it and we tried it.
> 
> But yeah, we did swopp out mine with his, Corsair 750w/tx and a ax.
> 
> same stuff, stable at all auto, mem speed set to 1066. no trouble, going 4 a week, but if I set mem speed to 1333. it will, either stay stable, for a week, and then suddenly restart, ore black screen.


Do you have one 4-stick kit, or two 2-stick kits together?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grandpatzer;15437492*
> If I run X8 X8 X4 on three 6950 2gb and 5760*1080.
> 
> Would I see big performance hit?


Nahh... I don't think it would be noticeable high..


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Why does ASUS Suite II Sensor software show the fan icon beside Chassis 2 as greyed out. Here's the pic:

What does it mean?



Try speed fan.


----------



## dennyb

Been a while since I posted here but would like to run this OC by you guys. Please let me know if you think it is abnormal or needs something changed

44x100
Turbo enabled
manual mode
1.310 v BIOS
LLC= ultra high
load = 1.312v
temps @ load= 60/63C

Sound about right?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennyb*


Been a while since I posted here but would like to run this OC by you guys. Please let me know if you think it is abnormal or needs something changed

44x100
Turbo enabled
manual mode
1.310 v BIOS
LLC= ultra high
load = 1.312v
temps @ load= 60/63C

Sound about right?


Click on the Stable club and you can compare with other's.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


Click on the Stable club and you can compare with other's.


Thanks munaim...did that and it seems like I'm ok. I might be able to lower the volts a bit but if it runs without problems in everyday use ...I will let it be.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


I went to sleep about 130am last night. set it up for 4.7ghz and ran prime95 all night. its now basically 11am. when i started my ambient temps were 61f and now they are 74f. all night and the max temp hit was 82c. at these settings when i play combat arms i hit around 45c.

I'm pretty much thinking this is as far as i can go with this cooler and chip because of thermal limits. later today sometime ill post up my bios settings. maybe there's something i can try that i haven't though of yet that will let me lower the Vcore some more and maybe push a little high. from what i understand tho. I'm right at the normal average Vcore for 4.7 so who knows.










Guess i should post a screen shot that shows the start. or meh. ill just end the test. i know some people around here like 12 hours. but its football day and i wanna get a couple games of combat arms in before kick off. so i guess its my official unofficial stable over clock. ill back with an edit for the other picture

edit:

looks like it was 9 hours 4 minutes. i remember back in the day. you only needed 8hr of prime to be official












here are the bios screen shots. (in no particular order)




























































"cpu current capability" i am wondering i can lower that to 130 or 120 and if by doing so it might affect temps. Does anyone know if changing this value does lower temps?
Also any shots that are missing like im the ram area everything was set to auto except what you see defines in the screens above.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


here are the bios screen shots. (in no particular order)











Did you find that you need Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*












Did you find that the DRAM Voltage has to be at 1.53125V, or can you put it back to Auto?

You might be able to get slightly lower core temps if you lower the CPU PLL Voltage to approximately 1.70V. Try different values that hover around 1.70V if this doesn't work.

Also, I recommend enabling CPU Spread Spectrum unless a problem occurs when it is enabled.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*













Wow, do we have the same memory?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*












I forgot if I asked: do you need HyperThreading? Are you using Virtual Machines as well?

I recommend disabling both CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


"cpu current capability" i am wondering i can lower that to 130 or 120 and if by doing so it might affect temps. Does anyone know if changing this value does lower temps?
Also any shots that are missing like im the ram area everything was set to auto except what you see defines in the screens above.


Nah, you covered everything that matters!

I don't know if changing CPU Current Capability will make any difference to temps.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Did you find that you need Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled?

Did you find that the DRAM Voltage has to be at 1.53125V, or can you put it back to Auto?

You might be able to get slightly lower core temps if you lower the CPU PLL Voltage to approximately 1.70V. Try different values that hover around 1.70V if this doesn't work.

Also, I recommend enabling CPU Spread Spectrum unless a problem occurs when it is enabled.

Wow, do we have the same memory?

I forgot if I asked: do you need HyperThreading? Are you using Virtual Machines as well?

I recommend disabling both CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report.

Nah, you covered everything that matters!

I don't know if changing CPU Current Capability will make any difference to temps.


*

Did you find that you need Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled?*

_Yes_

*Did you find that the DRAM Voltage has to be at 1.53125V, or can you put it back to Auto? *

_I never used auto. i started at the default voltage for my ram. i probably can back it off and be fine. i was thinking of trying to tighten some of the timings up a little bit._

*You might be able to get slightly lower core temps if you lower the CPU PLL Voltage to approximately 1.70V. Try different values that hover around 1.70V if this doesn't work.*
_
I have explored this option as well_.

*Also, I recommend enabling CPU Spread Spectrum unless a problem occurs when it is enabled.
*_
Why do you suggest this. for higher overclocks it tends to help with it disabled. I also believe it was a factor of getting stable was for it to be disable_
*Wow, do we have the same memory?*

_I think so yes._

*I forgot if I asked: do you need HyperThreading? Are you using Virtual Machines as well?*

_Yes, i do a lot of video transcoding of big files 7-12gb in size and Yes, i run virtual box from oracle._

*I recommend disabling both CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report.*

_what are these and how do they affect stability ?_


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


*

Did you find that you need Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled?*

_Yes_


Aw damn. What happened when you disabled it?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


*Did you find that the DRAM Voltage has to be at 1.53125V, or can you put it back to Auto? *

_I never used auto. i started at the default voltage for my ram. i probably can back it off and be fine. i was thinking of trying to tighten some of the timings up a little bit._


Oh. Good idea. hehe









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


*You might be able to get slightly lower core temps if you lower the CPU PLL Voltage to approximately 1.70V. Try different values that hover around 1.70V if this doesn't work.*
_
I have explored this option as well_.


Aw man...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


*Also, I recommend enabling CPU Spread Spectrum unless a problem occurs when it is enabled.
*_
Why do you suggest this. for higher overclocks it tends to help with it disabled. I also believe it was a factor of getting stable was for it to be disable_


For Sandy Bridge, CPU Spread Spectrum only needs to be disabled when adjusting the BCLK. Otherwise, leaving it enabled is good (except for some Z68 boards because the BCLK otherwise sometimes drops down to 98 MHz).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


*Wow, do we have the same memory?*

_I think so yes._


Ooh, good.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


*I forgot if I asked: do you need HyperThreading? Are you using Virtual Machines as well?*

_Yes, i do a lot of video transcoding of big files 7-12gb in size and Yes, i run virtual box from oracle._


Ok cool.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


*I recommend disabling both CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report.*

_what are these and how do they affect stability ?_


When using an Offset voltage, having these set to Auto can sometimes result in lock-ups under low load conditions - although it's relatively rare. Having them enabled almost guarantees instability in low load conditions such as BSODs and lock-ups. So having them Disabled usually eliminates the chances of low-load instability altogether.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Aw damn. What happened when you disabled it?

Oh. Good idea. hehe









Aw man...

For Sandy Bridge, CPU Spread Spectrum only needs to be disabled when adjusting the BCLK. Otherwise, leaving it enabled is good (except for some Z68 boards because the BCLK otherwise sometimes drops down to 98 MHz).

Ooh, good.









Ok cool.

When using an Offset voltage, having these set to Auto can sometimes result in lock-ups under low load conditions - although it's relatively rare. Having them enabled almost guarantees instability in low load conditions such as BSODs and lock-ups. So having them Disabled usually eliminates the chances of low-load instability altogether.


when it was disabled i would post and then start to boot windows. but at a certain part of the boot up it would lock up and freeze everytime. by turning that on. i was able to successfully boot into windows and at a much lower vcore as well

as for the spread spectrum. i was indeed messing with the bclk i think that is why i had it set that way.

so far the system appears to be completely normal. even at idle.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trippen Out*


when it was disabled i would post and then start to boot windows. but at a certain part of the boot up it would lock up and freeze everytime. by turning that on. i was able to successfully boot into windows and at a much lower vcore as well

as for the spread spectrum. i was indeed messing with the bclk i think that is why i had it set that way.

so far the system appears to be completely normal. even at idle.


Yeah, Auto C3 and C6 worked for me for about 2 months and then my system locked up when it went down to idle at some random point, so I disabled C3 and C6 just in case that was the culprit. I think that it has only been about 1 month since then, so I don't know yet.

Anyway, BCLK tuning can be fun since it makes the overclocking a little more interesting, so yeah leave CPU Spread Spectrum disabled. hehe I have no idea of what changes when it's disabled except I think having it enabled is supposed to protect against EMI or something.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Yeah, Auto C3 and C6 worked for me for about 2 months and then my system locked up when it went down to idle at some random point, so I disabled C3 and C6 just in case that was the culprit. I think that it has only been about 1 month since then, so I don't know yet.

Anyway, BCLK tuning can be fun since it makes the overclocking a little more interesting, so yeah leave CPU Spread Spectrum disabled. hehe I have no idea of what changes when it's disabled except I think having it enabled is supposed to protect against EMI or something.



not to sure. but i am thinking of disabling hyper threading and seeing what i can get just with the 4 cores as well. just for fun.

edit:
this looks interesting. wonder if i could stable it out


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Tried moving your system to another room or something? Maybe there is something which gives electromagnetic interference or something nearby where you have your PC??


Nahh. Don't know what that could be. Same spot as my (here we go again ;8 ) old pc was at , and that never gave me a hard time. New mod arriving today. will build it asap. Also got a new hdd to get a fresh install. ( did that on the gene-z to, but that disk is 2 years.)


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Do you have one 4-stick kit, or two 2-stick kits together?


2x 4gig vengeance sticks.
Corsair Vengeance™ DDR3 1600MHz 8GB CL9Kit w/2x 4GB, CL9-9-9-24, 1.5V, Vengeance Red Heatspreader, 240 pin

http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=640646

if you have the time you can have a look here to see how I tested last week to se if my sticks were the problem, ore if it could be the psu ore the board.(3 post's in row)

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post15381661

It lasted 2 day's after the test at my friends house and then it suddenly rebooted again. , and gave me the overklock fail, all on auto, but mem speed set to 1333. If I stick with all auto and mem speed 1066, it's solid. No biggi for me, but everybody else is humming along at 1333 ore 1600 and clocking the cpu and having a good time.
New board will be here today, so I will get right on it build, so then we will se if the problems continue, ore maybe it's the cpu ore the psu.


----------



## Burke2000

Get me onto that list, cause I have an ASUS at home!
Nice laptop, but a bit too heavy.
But it can play vob.
http://vobplayer.org/


----------



## nekromantik

i just wanna get offset and PLL overvoltage correct.

currently I passed 11 hours of Prime with vcore of 1.25 manual and overvoltage on auto for 4.5ghz.

if I want to use offset so it lowers vcore when not needed do I need to reset my bios settings to see the default vcore and then add the offset to get it to 1.25? Also should I leave overvoltage on auto?

edit:

switched over voltage off and got offset to - 0.100.
on cpu-z while running prime my vcore is 1.248 - 1.256.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;15440572*
> Try speed fan.


But the Chassis 2 fan works. I'm just wondering why the fan icon is colored grey, does it have some meaning to it? Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## Trippen Out

Man im bummed out. i woke up this morning thinking sweet ive passed almost 9 hours of prime 95 at 5ghz on air(non hyperthreaded). then i look at the max temps which are perfectly good however i see that only 3 out of 4 cores are stressed. i look at prime and my core 0 failed with in 10 minutes while the other 3 cores ran perfectly fine all night long.


----------



## kevindd992002

So it's always recommended to disable the C3/C6 states when overclocking and using SSDs? I'll have an M4 soon and should it have higher throughput if these CPU power states are disabled?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


2x 4gig vengeance sticks.
Corsair Vengeance™ DDR3 1600MHz 8GB CL9Kit w/2x 4GB, CL9-9-9-24, 1.5V, Vengeance Red Heatspreader, 240 pin

http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=640646

if you have the time you can have a look here to see how I tested last week to se if my sticks were the problem, ore if it could be the psu ore the board.(3 post's in row)

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...l#post15381661

It lasted 2 day's after the test at my friends house and then it suddenly rebooted again. , and gave me the overklock fail, all on auto, but mem speed set to 1333. If I stick with all auto and mem speed 1066, it's solid. No biggi for me, but everybody else is humming along at 1333 ore 1600 and clocking the cpu and having a good time.
New board will be here today, so I will get right on it build, so then we will se if the problems continue, ore maybe it's the cpu ore the psu.


Wait a sec. Are you saying that you have two 2x4GB kits? 4 sticks in total?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nekromantik*


i just wanna get offset and PLL overvoltage correct.

currently I passed 11 hours of Prime with vcore of 1.25 manual and overvoltage on auto for 4.5ghz.

if I want to use offset so it lowers vcore when not needed do I need to reset my bios settings to see the default vcore and then add the offset to get it to 1.25?


Nope.

I recommend using a Load-Line Calibration of Ultra High, and then I recommend checking your VID in Real Temp by clicking this button:










Then find the difference between the VID and the core voltage that you want to achieve. When you find that difference, try different Offsets in that range.

For example: my VID is 1.3561V to 1.3611V (it flip-flops, which is normal) and the core voltage I want is 1.392V to 1.400V. The differences are 0.0309V/0.0359V - to 0.0389V/0.0439V. After experimentation using an LLC of Ultra High, I achieved my target core voltage by using +0.040V. Every CPU and motherboard is unique, so experimentation is required.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nekromantik*


Also should I leave overvoltage on auto?


Not with this overclock. I recommend leaving it Disabled. Generally, Internal PLL Overvoltage is intended for multipliers of like 48x or more if a system cannot boot. So if a system can boot with Internal PLL Overvoltage disabled, then it's not needed - not even on Auto.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


So it's always recommended to disable the C3/C6 states when overclocking and using SSDs? I'll have an M4 soon and should it have higher throughput if these CPU power states are disabled?


The only reason for disabling C3 and C6 is when using an Offset Voltage. Disabling C3 and C6 prevents the voltage from going too low while idling which ends up preventing BSODs or lock-ups while idling or while there's a very low load (again, only when using an Offset voltage).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15455553*
> Wait a sec. Are you saying that you have two 2x4GB kits? 4 sticks in total?
> 
> Nope.
> 
> I recommend using a Load-Line Calibration of Ultra High, and then I recommend checking your VID in Real Temp by clicking this button:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then find the difference between the VID and the core voltage that you want to achieve. When you find that difference, try different Offsets in that range.
> 
> For example: my VID is 1.3561V to 1.3611V (it flip-flops, which is normal) and the core voltage I want is 1.392V to 1.400V. The differences are 0.0309V/0.0359V - to 0.0389V/0.0439V. After experimentation using an LLC of Ultra High, I achieved my target core voltage by using +0.040V. Every CPU and motherboard is unique, so experimentation is required.
> 
> Not with this overclock. I recommend leaving it Disabled. Generally, Internal PLL Overvoltage is intended for multipliers of like 48x or more if a system cannot boot. So if a system can boot with Internal PLL Overvoltage disabled, then it's not needed - not even on Auto.
> 
> The only reason for disabling C3 and C6 is when using an Offset Voltage. Disabling C3 and C6 prevents the voltage from going too low while idling which ends up preventing BSODs or lock-ups while idling or while there's a very low load (again, only when using an Offset voltage).


How does Offset work? To my understanding, it simply adds/subtracts to the Auto value of the Vcore determined by the BIOS, right? I'm reading that many OCN overclockers are using Offset which supposed to produce better results than using manual?

With Offset, at what instance would the Vcore be very low when C3/C6 are enabled? And it is also already proven that disabling them would produce better SSD throughputs even though Offset is disabled, right?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15456309*
> How does Offset work? To my understanding, it simply adds/subtracts to the Auto value of the Vcore determined by the BIOS, right?


I don't know, but it looks to me like it really is simply added or subtracted to or from the VID as I described above.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15456309*
> I'm reading that many OCN overclockers are using Offset which supposed to produce better results than using manual?


I do not know whether or produces better results than using manual. All I have noticed so far is that we prefer Offset because it allows the core voltage to dynamically adjusted based on the load instead of being at the full voltage 24/7.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15456309*
> With Offset, at what instance would the Vcore be very low when C3/C6 are enabled?


Very low load and idle.

When C3 and C6 are enabled, the voltage goes as low as possible. With C3 and C6 disabled, this floor is raised a little bit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15456309*
> And it is also already proven that disabling them would produce better SSD throughputs even though Offset is disabled, right?


I really don't know. All I know is that Juan Jose ("JJ" at ASUS) said that disabling the C-States can reduce HDD and SSD performance on the SATA III ports. Here are his words:

_"In addition continued testing with Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled and D2 or retail parts have shown some benefits to CStates being disabled when approaching, at or exceeding a 50x multiplier. An important note to keep in mind is that disabling CStates can considerably affect HDD performance ( especially SATA6G ) Please keep this in mind when going for the highest level overclocks."

_Source: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15456340*
> I don't know, but it looks to me like it really is simply added or subtracted to or from the VID as I described above.
> 
> I do not know whether or produces better results than using manual. All I have noticed so far is that we prefer Offset because it allows the core voltage to dynamically adjusted based on the load instead of being at the full voltage 24/7.
> 
> Very low load and idle.
> 
> When C3 and C6 are enabled, the voltage goes as low as possible. With C3 and C6 disabled, this floor is raised a little bit.
> 
> I really don't know. All I know is that Juan Jose ("JJ" at ASUS) said that disabling the C-States can reduce HDD and SSD performance on the SATA III ports. Here are his words:
> 
> _"In addition continued testing with Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled and D2 or retail parts have shown some benefits to CStates being disabled when approaching, at or exceeding a 50x multiplier. An important note to keep in mind is that disabling CStates can considerably affect HDD performance ( especially SATA6G ) Please keep this in mind when going for the highest level overclocks."
> 
> _Source: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110


Ok.

1.) When does the CPU use its VID as Vcore? Only at stock voltage and when Vcore is set to Auto? Or does it always use VID as Vcore when set to Auto?

2.) Is the VID shown in RealTemp independent of Vdrop making it accurate as what is indicated in the BIOS?

3.) How will I know my "desired voltage" as a computation for the Offset value when VID is already known? Should I start by using Manual setting first in BIOS and determine my desired stable voltage at a certain Turbo Ratio?

4.) I was reading about the SSD/HDD throughput relation with C3/C6 states in the OP link and JJ says disabling it would be degrading to the performance of the drives but other users say otherwise. They even posted a screenshot of ATTO proving their claim. Which one of them is correct?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15456826*
> Ok.
> 
> 1.) When does the CPU use its VID as Vcore? Only at stock voltage and when Vcore is set to Auto? Or does it always use VID as Vcore when set to Auto?


Never, actually. It's just the VID and nothing more.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15456826*
> 2.) Is the VID shown in RealTemp independent of Vdrop making it accurate as what is indicated in the BIOS?


Some people need to put load on their CPU (like Prime95 Blend) in order to be able to see what their true VID is. I didn't have to, but some people do.

VID is not a current voltage of any kind. It's just the VID.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15456826*
> 3.) How will I know my "desired voltage" as a computation for the Offset value when VID is already known? Should I start by using Manual setting first in BIOS and determine my desired stable voltage at a certain Turbo Ratio?


You nailed it!

This is usually the best way to do it because it is the easiest way to focus on overclocking. Although, it really doesn't matter _that_ much; some people go straight to an Offset voltage and do all their overclocking all the way to the end with an Offset. I did it the other way: I used a Manual voltage until I was done setting up my overclock. Then when I was done, I switched to an Offset voltage and that was that.









The best part is that if I want to do any more tweaking, then I can just stay with an Offset voltage the entire time I perform any new tweaks to my overclock because all of my Offset adjustments will be very tiny.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15456826*
> 4.) I was reading about the SSD/HDD throughput relation with C3/C6 states in the OP link and JJ says disabling it would be degrading to the performance of the drives but other users say otherwise. They even posted a screenshot of ATTO proving their claim. Which one of them is correct?


They are probably both correct because every system is unique.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15456898*
> Never, actually. It's just the VID and nothing more.
> 
> Some people need to put load on their CPU (like Prime95 Blend) in order to be able to see what their true VID is. I didn't have to, but some people do.
> 
> VID is not a current voltage of any kind. It's just the VID.
> 
> You nailed it!
> 
> This is usually the best way to do it because it is the easiest way to focus on overclocking. Although, it really doesn't matter _that_ much; some people go straight to an Offset voltage and do all their overclocking all the way to the end with an Offset. I did it the other way: I used a Manual voltage until I was done setting up my overclock. Then when I was done, I switched to an Offset voltage and that was that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The best part is that if I want to do any more tweaking, then I can just stay with an Offset voltage the entire time I perform any new tweaks to my overclock because all of my Offset adjustments will be very tiny.
> 
> They are probably both correct because every system is unique.


Great, I'm learning









1.) If the system never uses the VID, why is it important for the computation of the Offset voltage then? I don't get it because the value determined by Realtemp is already "less Vdrop" and the desired value (determined through BIOS) has no Vdrop subtracted yet. So when you subtract Realtemp VID from BIOS desired value will that still be accurate computation from Offset? Sorry if my question is confusing, please tell me what you don't understand









2.) What is the base Vcore used to add/subtract the Offset voltage to/from? Is this value determined automatically by the system?

3.) Are non-Sandforce-based SSDs also affected by this C3/C6 issue?


----------



## maxmekker

TWO CABLE:
No sorry man, I have the 8 gig set, that's 2x 4gig sticks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15457246*
> Great, I'm learning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.) If the system never uses the VID, why is it important for the computation of the Offset voltage then? I don't get it because the value determined by Realtemp is already "less Vdrop" and the desired value (determined through BIOS) has no Vdrop subtracted yet. So when you subtract Realtemp VID from BIOS desired value will that still be accurate computation from Offset? Sorry if my question is confusing, please tell me what you don't understand


I think VID stands for Voltage Identification. It's nothing more than an ID.

Also, the desired core voltage is what you see in CPU-Z under full load, not the value you would enter into the BIOS using a Manual voltage (or "fixed voltage", as some might call it).

So, it's much simpler than I have made it sound so far.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15457246*
> 2.) What is the base Vcore used to add/subtract the Offset voltage to/from? Is this value determined automatically by the system?


The VID.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15457246*
> 3.) Are non-Sandforce-based SSDs also affected by this C3/C6 issue?


I don't know. All JJ said is that it can affect hard drive performance, especially on the SATA III ports. That's all I know. I mean, I honestly don't know any more than that about it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxmekker;15457411*
> TWO CABLE:
> No sorry man, I have the 8 gig set, that's 2x 4gig sticks.


Oh, so it's just a 2x4GB kit. Damn.

My theory was that if you had two dual channel kits as opposed to one dual channel kit (2 sticks from one package as opposed to 4 sticks from two different packages), then that would have been the culprit.

So, it looks like the issue you're having could be way out of my league.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15457456*
> I think VID stands for Voltage Identification. It's nothing more than an ID.
> 
> Also, the desired core voltage is what you see in CPU-Z under full load, not the value you would enter into the BIOS using a Manual voltage (or "fixed voltage", as some might call it).
> 
> So, it's much simpler than I have made it sound so far.


Got it, now I understand. At first I thought that the desired voltage was the one stated in the BIOS.

Is Vdrop consistent for any Vcore?

What is the maximum safe temperature that I should be aware of when pushing my CPU to the limits?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15457749*
> Got it, now I understand. At first I thought that the desired voltage was the one stated in the BIOS.
> 
> Is Vdrop consistent for any Vcore?


I don't know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15457749*
> What is the maximum safe temperature that I should be aware of when pushing my CPU to the limits?


About 98°C because that is the Thermaljunction Maximum (the "Tj. Max"). This is the temperature where the CPU would either throttle itself down or turn itself off in order to avoid damage.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15457826*
> I don't know.
> 
> About 98°C because that is the Thermaljunction Maximum (the "Tj. Max"). This is the temperature where the CPU would either throttle itself down or turn itself off in order to avoid damage.


Would you even personally run your system 24/7 close to that limit?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15458080*
> Would you even personally run your system 24/7 close to that limit?


No, but it would be impossible. The highest temp I can achieve is in IBT, and that goes over 80°C and Prime95 goes as high as 73°C. The highest temp I can get in Crysis 1 or 2 is about 68 or 69°C if I turn the fans all the way down on my Frio. I have aftermarket fans that can go as low as 800 RPM.

So there's nothing to worry about.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I won't personally pass over 85*C with mine with Prime95 (I never use IBT).

I can stress test 5.0GHz, 1.53v, and I never pass over about 81*C in Prime.









So yeah, just keep it under 85*C during Prime, and you'll be just fine. Folding on my chip (that loads at 81*C in Prime), the temperatures are about 65*C, which is MORE than safe.


----------



## maxmekker

TwoCables:

I got my p8z68 last night, and also BF3 in the mail. so instead of building I play'd some battlefield. should have been swopping out the board instead, hehe.

But I hope the p8z68 will give me a good time ahead like the p5b did. It's fun to tweak a little, but not 4 a month, and i'm not a hard core OC, so the Gene-z may have been a bitt over my head for my use. General gaming surfing and photo shop.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxmekker;15458528*
> TwoCables:
> 
> I got my p8z68 last night, and also BF3 in the mail. so instead of building I play'd some battlefield. should have been swopping out the board instead, hehe.
> 
> But I hope the p8z68 will give me a good time ahead like the p5b did. It's fun to tweak a little, but not 4 a month, and i'm not a hard core OC, so the Gene-z may have been a bitt over my head for my use. General gaming surfing and photo shop.


Yeah, I saw the UEFI: it looks very complicated. I mean, it looks like it could give people the impression that overclocking with that board is very difficult.


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15458652*
> Yeah, I saw the UEFI: it looks very complicated. I mean, it looks like it could give people the impression that overclocking with that board is very difficult.


Comming from the p5b+c2d6300 , OC now day's looks like childsplay compared to what it was before. If you just want a mild oc , the auto tuning will probaly work (for folks like me :-8 ) but setting up the the OC in bios don't look that hard anymore either, and with forums like this,help is always near.
I just want my system to be stable. and running stock speed on the cpu (ore it will turbo it self to 3,7 ) and 1066 on the mem to get it to boot is a bitt down I think, hehe.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;15430621*
> I have bit wired problem and can't figure it out what is it.
> Since Ive upgraded to p67 system I'm having weird problem when I'm doing multiple tasks. Let start with basics, when I want to unrar something, I have to wait for that to finish so I can start working on something else. Or when I copy cd to pc and open web browser web hangs out for few sec. Also if I'm not using second hdd it turns off itself.
> I tried with different hdd since ive 3 of them and same thing happpen


so any other suggestions


----------



## MercurySteam

Hey I was looking to ask, these new Gen3 mobos, isn't the only difference between them and the regular boards is that they support Ivy Bridge and PCIe 3.0 out of the box? I've heard that the boards just before the Gen3 ones can have all these features with a simple BIOS flash update, though apparently PCIe 3.0 won't work in SLI. Can anyone shed some light on this?


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*


Hey I was looking to ask, these new Gen3 mobos,* isn't the only difference between them and the regular boards is that they support Ivy Bridge and PCIe 3.0 out of the box?* I've heard that the boards just before the Gen3 ones can have all these features with a simple BIOS flash update, though apparently PCIe 3.0 won't work in SLI. Can anyone shed some light on this?


Yes, those are the only differences with these boards. And yes whatever motherboards say '22nm cpu ready' are Ivy-Bridge compatible with a bios flash. However, PCI-Express 3.0 will not 'work' (resorting back to 2.0 if you have a 3.0 card) if you don't have an Ivy Bridge cpu. But, "does it really matter?" is the question. 2.0 cards don't even utilize their full bandwidth, which has been talked to death about, so 3.0 seems more of a marketing gimmick now more than anything.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


Comming from the p5b+c2d6300 , OC now day's looks like childsplay compared to what it was before. If you just want a mild oc , the auto tuning will probaly work (for folks like me :-8 ) but setting up the the OC in bios don't look that hard anymore either, and with forums like this,help is always near. 
I just want my system to be stable. and running stock speed on the cpu (ore it will turbo it self to 3,7 ) and 1066 on the mem to get it to boot is a bitt down I think, hehe.


Much easier overclocking with Sandy when compared to older platforms.

Just use *TwoCables* template in the second post of this Club and work from there. You only need to concentrate on multi and Vcore. Otherwise, just set your RAM manually at spec and you're done.

Use Prime95 Blend for stability testing.


----------



## Trippen Out

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15458204*
> I won't personally pass over 85*C with mine with Prime95 (I never use IBT).
> 
> I can stress test 5.0GHz, 1.53v, and I never pass over about 81*C in Prime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, just keep it under 85*C during Prime, and you'll be just fine. Folding on my chip (that loads at 81*C in Prime), the temperatures are about 65*C, which is MORE than safe.


at full load with 1.53v and a passive heat sink you get 81c.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I won't personally pass over 85*C with mine with Prime95 (I never use IBT).

I can stress test 5.0GHz, 1.53v, and I never pass over about 81*C in Prime.









So yeah, just keep it under 85*C during Prime, and you'll be just fine. Folding on my chip (that loads at 81*C in Prime), the temperatures are about 65*C, which is MORE than safe.


Isn't it better to use IBT (Linpack) since it stresses the CPU more?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


No, but it would be impossible. The highest temp I can achieve is in IBT, and that goes over 80Â°C and Prime95 goes as high as 73Â°C. The highest temp I can get in Crysis 1 or 2 is about 68 or 69Â°C if I turn the fans all the way down on my Frio. I have aftermarket fans that can go as low as 800 RPM.

So there's nothing to worry about.


Ok.

1.) When you overclock the CPU, does it "scale" its clock speed in Windows according to load? Or it's just 1600MHz (courtesy of Speedstep) and the overclocked frequency?

2.) What setting of Spread Spectrum is recommended and why?

3.) Is VRM frequency always recommended to be set to 350 KHz?

4.) Is it recommended NOT to change BCLK?

5.) Why is "per core" setting not recommended by many? Does it affect the overclocking potential of the CPU?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Ok.

1.) When you overclock the CPU, does it "scale" its clock speed in Windows according to load? Or it's just 1600MHz (courtesy of Speedstep) and the overclocked frequency?

2.) What setting of Spread Spectrum is recommended and why?

3.) Is VRM frequency always recommended to be set to 350 KHz?

4.) Is it recommended NOT to change BCLK?

5.) Why is "per core" setting not recommended by many? Does it affect the overclocking potential of the CPU?


1) It's mostly going to be 1600Mhz and overclock. I do sometimes see odd numbers like 2.0GHz, 3.0GHz, etc. But for the most part those are the 2 you'll see.

2) Enabled. It's required for the downclocking to function correctly.

3) Yes, VRM Frequency should be 350Mhz for best results.

4) Yes / No. I was running 105MHz BCLK for my overclock. I just bought a SSD though, and I've heard that BCLK changes are tempramental with SSD's, so I'm back to 100MHz for now till I can test that. Feel free to toy with BCLK if you're bored...but if you have a SSD, use at your own risk.

5) Per core will just make things that much more difficult in testing.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Isn't it better to use IBT (Linpack) since it stresses the CPU more?


Not with Sandy Bridge. It's not better than Prime95, so all it really does it generate more heat for no reason.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Ok.

1.) When you overclock the CPU, does it "scale" its clock speed in Windows according to load? Or it's just 1600MHz (courtesy of Speedstep) and the overclocked frequency?


My frequency and core voltage dynamically adjust based on load. Although I think the CPU frequency is always either 1.6GHz (idle) or 4.8GHz. I mean, it seems that even a SMALL amount of load ramps it up to 4.8 GHz even though the core voltage adjusts to all sorts of different amounts based on the CPU load.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


2.) What setting of Spread Spectrum is recommended and why?


Enabled if you are not adjusting the BCLK, and disabled if you *are* adjusting it. Spread Spectrum has something to do with reducing EMI. Disabling it helps make BCKL overclocking easier because it frees up that system resource. Therefore, leave it enabled if you are leaving the BCLK at 100.0 MHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


3.) Is VRM frequency always recommended to be set to 350 KHz?


Using 350 allows for scaling to a multiplier of 50 and beyond without issues.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


4.) Is it recommended NOT to change BCLK?


It's absolutely up to you, but I prefer to leave the BCLK alone so that my memory stays at 1866MHz. Plus, it enables me to have an easy time overclocking. Adjusting the BCLK complicates this (but that is more fun for some people).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


5.) Why is "per core" setting not recommended by many? Does it affect the overclocking potential of the CPU?


Because it's not necessary. Some people prefer being able to individually adjust the cores, but not me. I don't have a reason to.

Besides, if I try to have a different multiplier for even *one* of my cores, then that makes stress testing much more complicated.


----------



## spritepr

Alright so I finally got my parts and got them set up but I have a couple of doubts/problems:

First of all I am getting the double/triple boot post problem a couple of people have been reporting and I remember hearing there was a fix for this but I thought this problem would go away with the new GEN3 boards.

Another thing I want to ask is if the following temps look normal as I remember my old AMD Phenom running around 27-28 at idle when OC'ed and I'm currently running my i5 stock and it seems to be a bit higher.

One last thing anyone know what that CPUTIN reading is? 60 C seems way to high.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Fortunex

I'm not sure if i5s actually run warmer or if the sensor is just in a different place, I think it's the latter, but it's normal to see temp readings quite a bit higher for i3/i5/i7 chips. My old Phenom 720 idled at 20 and P95d at 42, my i5 idles at 30-35 and P95s at 70-80 depending on my OC (still fiddling around). I don't think the i5 ACTUALLY runs twice as hot (sure doesn't feel like it putting my hand to the exhaust/on the heatsink).

So yes it's normal and nothing to worry about.

As for double/triple boot, enabling power on via PCI-E has lessened the frequency, but it still happens to me occasionally. Manually setting the ram frequency/timing profile is also supposed to help, but it didn't work for me.


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet;15460236*
> Yes, those are the only differences with these boards. And yes whatever motherboards say '22nm cpu ready' are Ivy-Bridge compatible with a bios flash. However, PCI-Express 3.0 will not 'work' (resorting back to 2.0 if you have a 3.0 card) if you don't have an Ivy Bridge cpu. But, "does it really matter?" is the question. 2.0 cards don't even utilize their full bandwidth, which has been talked to death about, so 3.0 seems more of a marketing gimmick now more than anything.


That's what I figured. Even if Nvidia/ATI release PCIe 3.0 cards, it won't matter since PCIe 2.0 speeds haven't even been saturated yet. I guess us without those 'Gen3' boards don't really have anything to worry about, plus the previous boards are cheaper anyway.


----------



## spritepr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fortunex;15467224*
> I'm not sure if i5s actually run warmer or if the sensor is just in a different place, I think it's the latter, but it's normal to see temp readings quite a bit higher for i3/i5/i7 chips. My old Phenom 720 idled at 20 and P95d at 42, my i5 idles at 30-35 and P95s at 70-80 depending on my OC (still fiddling around). I don't think the i5 ACTUALLY runs twice as hot (sure doesn't feel like it putting my hand to the exhaust/on the heatsink).
> 
> So yes it's normal and nothing to worry about.
> 
> As for double/triple boot, enabling power on via PCI-E has lessened the frequency, but it still happens to me occasionally. Manually setting the ram frequency/timing profile is also supposed to help, but it didn't work for me.


Thanks for the reply, forgot to mention room temp is around 24-25 degree. I live in Puerto Rico so I assume it's gonna be a little hotter.

EDIT:

Just played a round of BF3 and temps have stayed around 44-46 C so I guess I'm good for the moment. Get around 60 fps with everything on high and the textures on ultra. This processor is amazing even at stock speeds.


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam;15467237*
> I guess us without those 'Gen3' boards don't really have anything to worry about, plus the previous boards are cheaper anyway.


Right now on newegg, the Gen 3 version of the Asus P8Z68-V Pro is cheaper than the non gen3 by $10. Strange. I have one on the way.


----------



## spritepr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister;15468440*
> Right now on newegg, the Gen 3 version of the Asus P8Z68-V Pro is cheaper than the non gen3 by $10. Strange. I have one on the way.


That is pretty weird, I'm pretty sure the non-gen3 was 195 when I bought my gen3 on Sunday.


----------



## magic8ball88

Can I join the club? I have a P8Z68-v Pro/GEN3

I bought it before Newegg could notify me that it was available :3


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15462413*
> Not with Sandy Bridge. It's not better than Prime95, so all it really does it generate more heat for no reason.
> 
> My frequency and core voltage dynamically adjust based on load. Although I think the CPU frequency is always either 1.6GHz (idle) or 4.8GHz. I mean, it seems that even a SMALL amount of load ramps it up to 4.8 GHz even though the core voltage adjusts to all sorts of different amounts based on the CPU load.
> 
> Enabled if you are not adjusting the BCLK, and disabled if you *are* adjusting it. Spread Spectrum has something to do with reducing EMI. Disabling it helps make BCKL overclocking easier because it frees up that system resource. Therefore, leave it enabled if you are leaving the BCLK at 100.0 MHz.
> 
> Using 350 allows for scaling to a multiplier of 50 and beyond without issues.
> 
> It's absolutely up to you, but I prefer to leave the BCLK alone so that my memory stays at 1866MHz. Plus, it enables me to have an easy time overclocking. Adjusting the BCLK complicates this (but that is more fun for some people).
> 
> Because it's not necessary. Some people prefer being able to individually adjust the cores, but not me. I don't have a reason to.
> 
> Besides, if I try to have a different multiplier for even *one* of my cores, then that makes stress testing much more complicated.


Ok.

Why are there duplicate settings in the UEFI? Like EIST, it is available in CPU Power Management under AI Tweaker and also in CPU Configuration tab. Same as with Turbo Ratio. What will happen if I set my Turbo Ratio Multi in the CPU Configuration tab and not in AI Tweaker?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Alright so I finally got my parts and got them set up but I have a couple of doubts/problems:

First of all I am getting the double/triple boot post problem a couple of people have been reporting and I remember hearing there was a fix for this but I thought this problem would go away with the new GEN3 boards.


Are you saying that it turns off and on a few times before it boots up, or is it something different from that?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Another thing I want to ask is if the following temps look normal as I remember my old AMD Phenom running around 27-28 at idle when OC'ed and I'm currently running my i5 stock and it seems to be a bit higher.

One last thing anyone know what that CPUTIN reading is? 60 C seems way to high.











I don't know, but I recommend Real Temp 3.67 because it's optimized for Sandy Bridge and it's also less confusing.









http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=667250

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Ok.

Why are there duplicate settings in the UEFI? Like EIST, it is available in CPU Power Management under AI Tweaker and also in CPU Configuration tab. Same as with Turbo Ratio. What will happen if I set my Turbo Ratio Multi in the CPU Configuration tab and not in AI Tweaker?


I don't know, but in CPU Power Management leave EIST and Turbo Mode enabled and leave Turbo Ratio set to Auto.

In other words, these settings in this area of the UEFI are "Set it and forget it" settings.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I don't know, but in CPU Power Management leave EIST and Turbo Mode enabled and leave Turbo Ratio set to Auto.

In other words, these settings in this area of the UEFI are "Set it and forget it" settings.


And that goes for the same settings under CPU Configuration tab too?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


And that goes for the same settings under CPU Configuration tab too?


Basically, yep!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Basically, yep!


Ok then. What do you mean by CPUTIN in HWMonitor? I have it at high temps (60C) also.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Ok then. What do you mean by CPUTIN in HWMonitor? I have it at high temps (60C) also.


I never said anything about CPUTIN in HWMonitor.

Since you brought it up, I recommend just using Real Temp 3.67 to monitor temps. It's less confusing.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I never said anything about CPUTIN in HWMonitor.

Since you brought it up, I recommend just using Real Temp 3.67 to monitor temps. It's less confusing.


Sorry, wrong use of words. It should be what does CPUTIN represent in HWMonitor. Ok, I will try Real Temp 3.67 but I still insist on knowing about CPUTIN.

Thanks.


----------



## TwoCables

I don't know what CPUTIN is and to be honest I don't feel like I need to know.


----------



## acowboy

Hello, thought I would ask here first.
Noticed this board,ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 in NewEgg, but very little is been written about it except here.
I am a AMD user and have been for years, thought I might try out Intel now since the not so bright release of the BD processor.
I will couple this board with a i5 2500k, and cooling will be a H100 in a CM Sniper case.
Would this be a good choice on a first time Intel setup in your opinion..?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acowboy;15476124*
> Hello, thought I would ask here first.
> Noticed this board,ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 in NewEgg, but very little is been written about it except here.
> I am a AMD user and have been for years, thought I might try out Intel now since the not so bright release of the BD processor.
> I will couple this board with a i5 2500k, and cooling will be a H100 in a CM Sniper case.
> Would this be a good choice on a first time Intel setup in your opinion..?


That would be a fantastic choice, you certainly won't regret it


----------



## acowboy

Ty for the quick response, have so say was also looking at the Asus Sabertooth P67. But with IB around the corner will pull the trigger on the newer board.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magic8ball88;15468800*
> Can I join the club? I have a P8Z68-v Pro/GEN3
> 
> I bought it before Newegg could notify me that it was available :3


Added!







You are the first ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 owner to join, and also the first P8Z68/GEN3 owner to join this club!









Welcome!


----------



## k0smo86

Count me in! Got my ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 lastnight.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k0smo86;15478992*
> Count me in! Got my ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 lastnight.


Added! Welcome!


----------



## spritepr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15479021*
> Added! Welcome!


I have one too







:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spritepr;15479153*
> I have one too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Added! Welcome


----------



## spritepr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15471804*
> Are you saying that it turns off and on a few times before it boots up, or is it something different from that?


Here's a video I took of the boot sequence. I think it might have to do with the boot device. I just changed it from my DVD to my HD which I forgot to change once I installed windows and now it only boots twice. But I do manage to see a message from the Marvell Controller thing so I'm not sure if that's causing problems also:

[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]r1PtrqU5bww[/MEDIA]]

I also recently had some issues with the windows sound getting stuck in a loop which I guess has to do with the on-board audio fighting it out with my sound card so I disabled HD audio for the moment.

One last thing I just installed ASUS AI Suite II and CPU Temps are radically different when compared with Core Temp, (had problems running Real Temp kept complaining about a .dll that was right next to it, also tried placing it in SysWOW64 no dice):
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/641/captureixp.png/][IMG alt="captureixp.png"]http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/6111/captureixp.png[/IMG][/URL]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Thanks for all the help so far


----------



## keto

Just a quick hitter, what's the difference with the '-V' mobos?


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *keto*


Just a quick hitter, what's the difference with the '-V' mobos?


Here's what I think the major differences are for their Z68 boards:

The -V LX has 2 on-board usb 3.0 ports. The -V LE, -V & -V Pro have 4.

The -V LE, -V LX & -V have only 2 on-board Sata III ports, compared to the addtional 2 the -V Pro has (Marvell).

The - V and -V Pro have Intel nics, better power phase and additional heatsinks compared to the -V LE & -V LX.

The -V and -V Pro have 2 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8), compared to the -V LE & -V LX which have 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 / 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Here's a video I took of the boot sequence. I think it might have to do with the boot device. I just changed it from my DVD to my HD which I forgot to change once I installed windows and now it only boots twice. But I do manage to see a message from the Marvell Controller thing so I'm not sure if that's causing problems also:







That's not booting twice, believe it or not.

You can make it stop showing this ASUS logo "screen" twice by disabling Marvell Storage Controller in Advanced > Onboard Devices Configuration. You can also disable JMB Storage Controller if you are not using eSATA.

Also, you can shorten the POST time even more by disabling Full Screen Logo in the Boot tab. After that, change Post Report (a new option that appears) to 1 Second.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


I also recently had some issues with the windows sound getting stuck in a loop which I guess has to do with the on-board audio fighting it out with my sound card so I disabled HD audio for the moment.


I don't know for certain, but that sounds to me like it would fix it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


One last thing I just installed ASUS AI Suite II and CPU Temps are radically different when compared with Core Temp, (had problems running Real Temp kept complaining about a .dll that was right next to it, also tried placing it in SysWOW64 no dice):











Thanks for all the help so far










Yeah it's weird: for some reason, ASUS AI Suite II shows the temps being too low (unrealistically low). So, I never use AI Suite II. I don't even have it installed.

Regarding Real Temp, try Real Temp 3.67:

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=667250


----------



## keto

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*


Here's what I think the major differences are for their Z68 boards:

The -V LX has 2 on-board usb 3.0 ports. The -V LE, -V & -V Pro have 4.

The -V LE, -V LX & -V have only 2 on-board Sata III ports, compared to the addtional 2 the -V Pro has (Marvell).

The - V and -V Pro have Intel nics, better power phase and additional heatsinks compared to the -V LE & -V LX.

The -V and -V Pro have 2 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8), compared to the -V LE & -V LX which have 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 / 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode).


Thanks for that. I asked the wrong question LOL. It's the 'R' I'm curious about - local shop has 67's in 'Pro' and 'Pro-R', with a $5 difference...I can't pick out the difference.


----------



## spritepr

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *TwoCables*   That's not booting twice, believe it or not.

You can make it stop showing this ASUS logo "screen" twice by disabling Marvell Storage Controller in Advanced > Onboard Devices Configuration. You can also disable JMB Storage Controller if you are not using eSATA.

Also, you can shorten the POST time even more by disabling Full Screen Logo in the Boot tab. After that, change Post Report (a new option that appears) to 1 Second.

I don't know for certain, but that sounds to me like it would fix it.

Yeah it's weird: for some reason, ASUS AI Suite II shows the temps being too low (unrealistically low). So, I never use AI Suite II. I don't even have it installed.

Regarding Real Temp, try Real Temp 3.67:

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=667250  
Just tried disabling the Marvell controller and the computer would not load into windows no matter what I did. Had to reset to original settings. Thankfully I haven't changed to much yet. Is there any reason why windows would not boot when the controller is disabled?

My only HD is connected to the 6 GB/s Navy Blue SATA connectors on the board. Looking through the manual to see if I can find some info on the Marvell Controller thing.

EDIT:

Ok Real Temp is working now:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Gonna look into getting some better Thermal Paste soon. Is this any good:    http://www.amazon.com/DIAMOND-CARAT-GRAM-THERMAL-COMPOUND/dp/B0042IEVD8


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Gonna look into getting some better Thermal Paste soon. Is this any good: http://www.amazon.com/DIAMOND-CARAT-.../dp/B0042IEVD8


Wasn't a fan when I tried it. I currently use Phobya HeGrease and Gelid GC-3 Extreme. Both seem to be the same exact thing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *keto*


Thanks for that. I asked the wrong question LOL. It's the 'R' I'm curious about - local shop has 67's in 'Pro' and 'Pro-R', with a $5 difference...I can't pick out the difference.


lol No wonder why you didn't give me any rep for my hard work.





















lol I couldn't find the Pro-R on their website, however that "R" might stand for Revision 3.1

Some of the P67 chipset boards have that newer designated revision number.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Just tried disabling the Marvell controller and the computer would not load into windows no matter what I did. Had to reset to original settings. Thankfully I haven't changed to much yet. Is there any reason why windows would not boot when the controller is disabled?

My only HD is connected to the 6 GB/s Navy Blue SATA connectors on the board. Looking through the manual to see if I can find some info on the Marvell Controller thing.

EDIT:

Ok Real Temp is working now:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Gonna look into getting some better Thermal Paste soon. Is this any good: http://www.amazon.com/DIAMOND-CARAT-.../dp/B0042IEVD8


The Navy Blue ports are the Marvell ports. Switch to the white ports for SATA III and the light blue for SATA II.

I don't know how good or bad that thermal paste is.


----------



## spritepr

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*   Wasn't a fan when I tried it. I currently use Phobya HeGrease and Gelid GC-3 Extreme. Both seem to be the same exact thing.  
Did not manage to find the Phobya HeGrease on Amazon but I did find the other one:

  http://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Performance-GC3-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002P5W4RU

for $16.19 shipped

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *TwoCables*   The Navy Blue ports are the Marvell ports. Switch to the white ports for SATA III and the light blue for SATA II.

I don't know how good or bad that thermal paste is.







  
Guess that's why disabling it didn't work









Thanks for the replies so far


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spritepr*


Did not manage to find the Phobya HeGrease on Amazon but I did find the other one:

http://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Perfor.../dp/B002P5W4RU

for $16.19 shipped


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13...tl=g8c127s1491 $14.98 shipped. A little cheaper.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Hello everyone







got my Asus P8Z68-V Pro over the weekend.









I just realized that when my pc is off my wireless mouse is not charging. I tried searching the forums but no luck on the results. The closes I could find was 
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...en-pc-off.html

I was wondering have any of you had this experience with charging via usb when the system is off? If so how did you resolve it?

Edit:

Just wanted to note I did resolve my problem by using the method in the link I provided. After the post I realized I forgot to move the mouse to the USB 3.0 Port, so after plugging the mouse in the USB 3.0 I shutdown and put the mouse on the charging station while windows was shutting down and it is now charging while the PC is off


----------



## k0smo86

Can anyone lend me their settings on a stable overclock on Asus P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3 so I can use that as my starting point? Thanks!


----------



## thrgk

hey guys, i have the Asus p8p67 pro mobo now, if i upgrade to http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.as...P67%20Extreme6
which is 16+2 power phase, and currently my p8p67 pro is 12+2, will i get better overclocking ability, but a few 100mhz or no way?
Also, if there is a even better board, let me know. 
BTW, will they be releasing new mobos for ivy?


----------



## psyside

hey guys, sorry but i really cant read trough all of the tread, does anyone made comaprasion gen 3 vs gen 2 with same cards/system? if so, please point a link thanks!


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *k0smo86*


Can anyone lend me their settings on a stable overclock on Asus P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3 so I can use that as my starting point? Thanks!


Have you read this post. There's lots of great info and also a TwoCables template for ocing CPU up to 4.8GHz. Note that every CPU is different and you will probably will have to tweak voltages but the basic settings is all there.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk;15485217*
> hey guys, i have the Asus p8p67 pro mobo now, if i upgrade to http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=P67%20Extreme6
> which is 16+2 power phase, and currently my p8p67 pro is 12+2, will i get better overclocking ability, but a few 100mhz or no way?
> Also, if there is a even better board, let me know.
> BTW, will they be releasing new mobos for ivy?


It's difficult to say because it could be that your physical CPU is the limitation. :/


----------



## TerrabyteX

Can you guys help me on my problem ? i really am getting desperate about it . I updated my bios to 0801 again, reset CMOS, Hardware Reset and nothing. My PC powers on, goes thru boot led, cpu led, mem led, then at VGA led it stays on for 2 secs and my pc powers off, then powers on again and it goes to windows this time !

Check my thread and awsner me please


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyside;15485238*
> hey guys, sorry but i really cant read trough all of the tread, does anyone made comaprasion gen 3 vs gen 2 with same cards/system? if so, please point a link thanks!


http://www.overclock.net/15460236-post4687.html


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

Hi guys, how do I disable RAID 0 from BIOS in p8z68?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TerrabyteX;15487048*
> Can you guys help me on my problem ? i really am getting desperate about it . I updated my bios to 0801 again, reset CMOS, Hardware Reset and nothing. My PC powers on, goes thru boot led, cpu led, mem led, then at VGA led it stays on for 2 secs and my pc powers off, then powers on again and it goes to windows this time !
> 
> Check my thread and awsner me please


If this were happening to me, then I would be very stumped.

So, all I can recommend is to pull the 590 out and put it back in making extra sure that it has a perfect insertion.


----------



## SkillzKillz

In this table there is no checkmark under GPU for the Deluxe motherboard at the very bottom. What does this mean?


----------



## TerrabyteX

No integrated GPU support it means.

i will give it a try two cables but it worked fine before the bios update....and in bf3 my card is used 100% on both cores and i have no issues. Wierd i am stumped !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TerrabyteX;15487976*
> No integrated GPU support it means.
> 
> i will give it a try two cables but it worked fine before the bios update....and in bf3 my card is used 100% on both cores and i have no issues. Wierd i am stumped !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Oh wait a sec... this is probably that dual boot issue, but I don't remember what the fix is.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

Cof cof, sry but I dont remmember how to disable RAID 0 by bios, it was NOT marvell setup that the only thing I remmember...once again HELP


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster;15488124*
> Cof cof, sry but I dont remmember how to disable RAID 0 by bios, it was NOT marvell setup that the only thing I remmember...once again HELP


We aren't ignoring you. You see, it's just that no one has seen your post yet who can help. So be patient, my friend. You'll have an answer soon enough.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster;15488124*
> Cof cof, sry but I dont remmember how to disable RAID 0 by bios, it was NOT marvell setup that the only thing I remmember...once again HELP


For your Deluxe it's showing Marvell (dark blue sata ports) and Intel (white sata ports) for RAID setups. There has to be an option in the bios to disable the Marvell controller. As for the Intel, no idea as I haven't used it for RAID yet.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet;15488556*
> For your Deluxe it's showing Marvell (dark blue sata ports) and Intel (white sata ports) for RAID setups. There has to be an option in the bios to disable the Marvell controller. As for the Intel, no idea as I haven't used it for RAID yet.


There is. Advanced > Onboard Devices Configuration


----------



## psyside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet;15487601*
> http://www.overclock.net/15460236-post4687.html


ROFL i totally forgot about Ivy, sorry


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyside;15488715*
> ROFL i totally forgot about Ivy, sorry


No need to be sorry.


----------



## Fortunex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TerrabyteX;15487048*
> Can you guys help me on my problem ? i really am getting desperate about it . I updated my bios to 0801 again, reset CMOS, Hardware Reset and nothing. My PC powers on, goes thru boot led, cpu led, mem led, then at VGA led it stays on for 2 secs and my pc powers off, then powers on again and it goes to windows this time !
> 
> Check my thread and awsner me please


Sounds like the dual boot issue, go into your BIOS settings, look for "APM", set "Power on by PCI-e" to "enabled", and disable "Internal PLL Overvoltage". That stopped it for me.


----------



## TwoCables

Ah ha! That's the fix!

Just in case you can't find APM, it's in the Advanced tab, usually all the way at the bottom of all the choices.


----------



## turrican9

These things about the double boot issue, the Internal PLL Overvoltage issue, along with other things are posted in the first post of this club, and have been for a long time..

Example:

Quote:



*ASUS P8P67 series Double POST at Cold Boot Fix*
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I'll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.

First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.


----------



## TwoCables

But the first post is huge.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


But the first post is huge.


Not really, if you look past the members list, it is not that huge


----------



## PathOfTheRighteousMan

Got a deluxe.







see sig, etc

In for the win?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PathOfTheRighteousMan;15490225*
> Got a deluxe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see sig, etc
> 
> In for the win?


Sorry mate, this Club cannot accept members with more then 20 letters in their OCN name










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Kidding!







Welcome to the Club! Added!











/////////\\\\\\\\\///////\\\\\\\\\\////////\\\\\\\\\\//////////\\\\\\\\\


----------



## TerrabyteX

I disabled CPLL over-voltage. I also went to AI Overclock tuner and set it on auto from manual wich set my blk to 100.33 so i can have a normal multiplier ( x44 = 4414mhz before x43 = 4435 ) and i set my memory to 1866 it's xmp and now it's properly displayed. Wish ASUS would fix their stuff ! I can't use cpll overvoltage without getting a cold boot since i updated from 0501 to 0801.



I thought cold boot was fixed in the next bios update as Asus promised so i rulle dit out as a cause.....apparently not. thnanks !


----------



## TwoCables

Disabling CPU Spread Spectrum should enable you to use a BCLK of exactly 100.0 MHz.


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

A little off topic: What are your max load temps on that ASUS DirectCU II GTX 580?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15490578*
> *TwoCables*
> 
> A little off topic: What are your max load temps on that ASUS DirectCU II GTX 580?


That's a good question: I don't really know yet.

Worse yet, I haven't cleaned my system since July 11th (the day I put all these new parts in), so I'm a little bit afraid of generating heat now.









However back when my 580 was new, I kinda remember testing and being pretty impressed. I mean, I remember saying _"Wow. This air cooler really is awesome"._ It reminds me of the Twin Frozr II but a little bit better.


----------



## maxmekker

Hello folks, just swopped out my second Gene-z board wich still gave me memory error, to a p8z68v pro.
Quick build and a fresh w7 install and here I am, no error, bluescreen ore overklock fail page, nice.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

To access RAID you need to click CTRL + i on the start up after changing to RAID mode and there you can change the RAID composition (success)


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


Hello folks, just swopped out my second Gene-z board wich still gave me memory error, to a p8z68v pro.
Quick build and a fresh w7 install and here I am, no error, bluescreen ore overklock fail page, nice.


Nice man







The P8Z68-V PRO is a nice one









You actually get more board for the money VS the MIVE Gene-Z also. Even though the Gene-Z is cool and all that, you mostly pay for the ROG name, in my opinion.

However, now you should have had black or blue Corsair Vengeance RAM, as those red ones doesn't match the P8Z68-V PRO colour theme


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Nice man







The P8Z68-V PRO is a nice one









You actually get more board for the money VS the MIVE Gene-Z also. Even though the Gene-Z is cool and all that, you mostly pay for the ROG name, in my opinion.

However, now you should have had black or blue Corsair Vengeance RAM, as those red ones doesn't match the P8Z68-V PRO colour theme










bugger, did not think of that. hehe.

but , yeah, the gene-z was a friends recomendation, and It just was'nt for me. Seems the p8 is more my board 

while all is fresh , any 'must do' (all drivers are good ofcoz) 
bios is 0606.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


bugger, did not think of that. hehe.

but , yeah, the gene-z was a friends recomendation, and It just was'nt for me. Seems the p8 is more my board 

while all is fresh , any 'must do' (all drivers are good ofcoz) 
bios is 0606.


Get the latest bios and get a good 4.5 - 4.8GHz Prime95 Blend stable overclock, and you're pretty much set









That CM Hyper 212+ will handle about 1.4v full load Vcore. So 4.5GHz is a given, and if you have a good 2500K, then 4.7GHz - 4.9GHz could be done with that cooler. As long as you stay with Prime95, and stay away from that ridiculous LinX/IBT AVX enabled overkill test.


----------



## TwoCables

If we have a manual CPU PLL Voltage set, then what happens to the CPU PLL voltage if we have Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


If we have a manual CPU PLL Voltage set, then what happens to the CPU PLL voltage if we have Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled?


Actually, I've been thinking about this, or maybe not exactly this...

I think *Internal PLL Overvoltage* and *CPU PLL* Voltage are to different voltages (Two different functions).

Just look at their names...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Actually, I've been thinking about this, or maybe not exactly this...

I think *Internal PLL Overvoltage* and *CPU PLL* Voltage are to different voltages (Two different functions).

Just look at their names...


Oh good point. I guess this might mean that "PLL" doesn't always mean "CPU PLL". After all, why not call it CPU PLL Overvoltage?

I'm glad I asked! Thank you!


----------



## turrican9

Just wanna say I feel I did the right choice when going with the ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0 in the beginning of may...

I came from Q9650, skipped 1156 and 1366, and also waited out the faulty B2 revision P67 motherboards. Also, I did not bother to wait for Z68 (Did not really miss anything there).

Also, turns out these ASUS boards are probably among the best P67/Z68 boards when compared to other brands.

Only thing I regret a little bit is I didn't went with the P8P67 EVO. Not that I miss it's few extra features, but it was just a tiny bit more expensive VS the PRO, and it just has that extra little heatsink and those nice onboard lith-up Power and reset buttons









And yeah, I knew all along that AMD could never come up with anything better than Intel Sandy







And I was right


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Just wanna say I feel I did the right choice when going with the ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0 in the beginning of may...

I came from Q9650, skipped 1156 and 1366, and also waited out the faulty B2 revision P67 motherboards. Also, I did not bother to wait for Z68 (Did not really miss anything there).

Also, turns out these ASUS boards are probably among the best P67/Z68 boards when compared to other brands.

Only thing I regret a little bit is I didn't went with the P8P67 EVO. Not that I miss it's few extra features, but it was just a tiny bit more expensive VS the PRO, and it just has that extra little heatsink and those nice onboard lith-up Power and reset buttons









And yeah, I knew all along that AMD could never come up with anything better than Intel Sandy







And I was right










hehe you're my spiritual twin brother or something. Only, I upgraded directly from the E8400. Oh, and I also didn't intentionally wait out the B2 revision - it just happened that way (I got lucky).

However, with these 2 small exceptions, every statement in your post here hits home with me perfectly. It's weird!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


hehe you're my spiritual twin brother or something. Only, I upgraded directly from the E8400. Oh, and I also didn't intentionally wait out the B2 revision - it just happened that way (I got lucky).

However, with these 2 small exceptions, every statement in your post here hits home with me perfectly. It's weird!


Well, I actually didn't wait out the B2 boards when I think about it. They were only available for a short while before they were drawn back. And in those times I was happy with my [email protected], and defended it in any way I could.

When the P67 boards came back, in the form of the updated revision, I think I just had to have something new to play with. Was much back and forth before I finally ordered my first Sandy setup... So..









At the time I bought my P8P67 PRO, Gigabyte boards was also very popular. The last months or so, it seems Gigabyte is getting lesser and lesser interest in these forums. Seems like most are talking about ASUS boards. And I feel there is a reason for it...

ASUS simply have the most reliable, nice UEFI, overclocking and quality P67/Z68 boards out there now..


----------



## dennyb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Oh good point. I guess this might mean that "PLL" doesn't always mean "CPU PLL". After all, why not call it CPU PLL Overvoltage?

I'm glad I asked! Thank you!


So ,now I am asking you why you have internal PLL Voltage (Disabled) in your BIOS Template ? Would like to know the reason as I have mine on Auto and maybe I should not have it like that ?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennyb*


So ,now I am asking you why you have internal PLL Voltage (Disabled) in your BIOS Template ? Would like to know the reason as I have mine on Auto and maybe I should not have it like that ?


If you can boot Windows at your current multiplier with it Disabled, there is no reason to have it at AUTO or Enabled.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Well, I actually didn't wait out the B2 boards when I think about it. They were only available for a short while before they were drawn back. And in those times I was happy with my [email protected], and defended it in any way I could.

When the P67 boards came back, in the form of the updated revision, I think I just had to have something new to play with. Was much back and forth before I finally ordered my first Sandy setup... So..










Oh weird, this sounds similar to how it went down for me.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


At the time I bought my P8P67 PRO, Gigabyte boards was also very popular. The last months or so, it seems Gigabyte is getting lesser and lesser interest in these forums. Seems like most are talking about ASUS boards. And I feel there is a reason for it...

ASUS simply have the most reliable, nice UEFI, overclocking and quality P67/Z68 boards out there now..


Amen, brother!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dennyb*


So ,now I am asking you why you have internal PLL Voltage (Disabled) in your BIOS Template ? Would like to know the reason as I have mine on Auto and maybe I should not have it like that ?


Because both Auto and Enabled results in a slightly longer POST time by about 2-3 seconds. Plus, I don't need it (I think I'm lucky though).


----------



## dennyb

Well, I wanna be lucky like you







...so disabled it is


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;15492343*
> Well, I wanna be lucky like you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...so disabled it is


If you can reach 4.8 GHz without enabling it, then I think I'd consider you to be lucky like me.







I mean enabling it at 4.4 GHz is kinda silly to be honest.









Although, I don't know what the temps would be like with the Dark Knight.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15492398*
> If you can reach 4.8 GHz without enabling it, then I think I'd consider you to be lucky like me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean enabling it at 4.4 GHz is kinda silly to be honest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although, I don't know what the temps would be like with the Dark Knight.


The reason I had it on "Auto" (not enabled) is because the MB manual showed it "Auto" and I did not know anything about it.

My Temps are quite good with the DK. Low to mid 60's C... Max for 12 hours P 95.

I'm pretty happy with my 4.4 GHz as I don't do any intense operations on my rig. Download Bluray content and stream it to some flat screens is the most workout it gets. Yeah a pentium is all I need ,but I just like to play with them







....4.8


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb;15492540*
> The reason I had it on "Auto" (not enabled) is because the MB manual showed it "Auto" and I did not know anything about it.
> 
> My Temps are quite good with the DK. Low to mid 60's C... Max for 12 hours P 95.
> 
> I'm pretty happy with my 4.4 GHz as I don't do any intense operations on my rig. Download Bluray content and stream it to some flat screens is the most workout it gets. Yeah a pentium is all I need ,but I just like to play with them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....4.8


I mean I don't know what the temps would be for you at 4.8GHz.

All I really need is like the E2180 at stock because I don't really do anything with my system (OCN is as intense as it gets these days), but yet here I am overclocked to 4.8GHz for no good reason other than it's really fun to be saying _"4.8 GHz with air cooling!"_. hehe

Although, it becomes significantly less impressive when I reveal that I actually only have a 1.1GHz overclock because we are overclocking the Turbo Ratio which means my stock is 3.7GHz. :/ Still: 4.8GHz with air cooling! hehe


----------



## keto

Picked up a P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 today. All seems to be well with the install..excep...it doesn't want to recognize my GTX580, it's not in the device manager. I have PCIE/PCI first priority in bios.

*[EDIT] It was just a driver re-install required. I had plugged my RAID0 from the Gigabyte (below) to the ASUS, which worked fine but did take some driver tweaking/addition/deletion. Seems to be fine now.[/EDIT]*

Was dissatisfied with the Gibabyte board I had, the voltage handling and stability was poor, and, though I had done stability testing I was still seeing about 1 BSOD a week, always at idle...and, no, it wasn't the 'reduced vcore' issue, nor was it heat.

The UEFI bios took me a bit to get used to but I think I have it 95% figgered out at this point, didn't take long. Did have to plug my mouse in a different USB port but it did eventually recognize in bios.

*[EDIT] Ready to go, time to overclock this beast and change my sig. I also changed from a 2500K to a 2600K, just because I could. Hopefully it's a better clocker than the 2500K. [/EDIT]*


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keto;15492650*
> Picked up a P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 today. All seems to be well with the install..excep...it doesn't want to recognize my GTX580, it's not in the device manager. I have PCIE/PCI first priority in bios.
> 
> Was dissatisfied with the Gibabyte board I had, the voltage handling and stability was poor, and, though I had done stability testing I was still seeing about 1 BSOD a week, always at idle...and, no, it wasn't the 'reduced vcore' issue, nor was it heat.
> 
> The UEFI bios took me a bit to get used to but I think I have it 95% figgered out at this point, didn't take long. Did have to plug my mouse in a different USB port but it did eventually recognize in bios.


Please try and re-seat the GTX 580


----------



## keto

I do so like the 600T case, particularly for a) space and b) cable management. It's a touch ghetto wired because the case fan controller died, but Corsair was excellent about it, in 24 hrs I had a reply that they are shipping me a replacement. Dunno if I'm getting a case or a control module, they didn't specify lol. Also, I ran the USB3 plate up into the empty top drive bay and plugged in the case front USB3 controller to it.


----------



## turrican9

*keto*

Looks like a very nice case









I was just looking at this one:










Looks awesome!

I have a CM Storm Scout myself. Cable management was a pain.. But once done it looks great


----------



## dennyb

I have the Corsair 600 T SE and really like it. corsair makes great cases


----------



## kevindd992002

What VCore would be recommended for an initial 4.5GHz overclock?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15493533*
> What VCore would be recommended for an initial 4.5GHz overclock?


Hey, I've seen you somewhere before.









I would start at like 1.304V (as shown in CPU-Z). Then you can go up or down from there.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15493576*
> Hey, I've seen you somewhere before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would start at like 1.304V (as shown in CPU-Z). Then you can go up or down from there.


Everywhere, actually. lol!

Let me just confirm, the idle VCore in CPU-Z (at desired multi) is always lower than the one set in UEFI, right? Because of VDrop.

And VDroop makes the load VCore in CPU-Z always less than the idle VCore (at desired multi), correct?

Is it recommended to set PLL voltage initially at 1.7V?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Everywhere, actually. lol!


hehe









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Let me just confirm, the idle VCore in CPU-Z (at desired multi) is always lower than the one set in UEFI, right? Because of VDrop.


Yep!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


And VDroop makes the load VCore in CPU-Z always less than the idle VCore (at desired multi), correct?


Yes sir! Droopy voltage, but not droopy drawers!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Is it recommended to set PLL voltage initially at 1.7V?


I don't know, but I think it's a worth a shot.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


hehe









Yep!

Yes sir! Droopy voltage, but not droopy drawers!

I don't know, but I think it's a worth a shot.


With VDroop phenomenon, is idle voltage pertaining to the VCore voltage when it is idling at 1600MHz?

I set my UEFI to manual VCore of 1.3V now and the idle voltage seen in Win7 (at 1600MHz) is 1.304. That's higher than the one set in UEFI, so where is VDrop phenomenon kicking there?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


With VDroop phenomenon, is idle voltage pertaining to the VCore voltage when it is idling at 1600MHz?

I set my UEFI to manual VCore of 1.3V now and the idle voltage seen in Win7 (at 1600MHz) is 1.304. That's higher than the one set in UEFI, so where is VDrop phenomenon kicking there?


Hmm.. Which Load-Line Calibration setting are you using?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Hmm.. Which Load-Line Calibration setting are you using?


Ultra High. I set VCore voltage at UEFI to 1.305 now, rebooted and tried to go into UEFI again. I saw that the VCore voltage monitored there is 1.304/1.312.

I then went back to Win7 and fired up CPU-Z and I noticed that the idle voltage is 1.304/1.312 also. Correct me if I'm wrong but why am I seeing 0 VDrop here? I think that's bad because VDrop is there for protection from overshoot, right?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Ultra High. I set VCore voltage at UEFI to 1.305 now, rebooted and tried to go into UEFI again. I saw that the VCore voltage monitored there is 1.304/1.312.

I then went back to Win7 and fired up CPU-Z and I noticed that the idle voltage is 1.304/1.312 also. Correct me if I'm wrong but why am I seeing 0 VDrop here? I think that's bad because VDrop is there for protection from overshoot, right?


Hmm, sounds like your CPU likes to do a little bit of vRise with Ultra High. Can you try just "High" to see what it does?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Hmm, sounds like your CPU likes to do a little bit of vRise with Ultra High. Can you try just "High" to see what it does?


I think the monitor value seen in UEFI is approximately the same as the one in CPU-Z, is this correct? Because I've noticed that they roughly give the same value.

Here are my observations:

UEFI Monitor:

Extreme LLC - 1.296/1.304
Ultra High LLC - 1.304/1.312
High LLC - 1.296/1.304

CPU-z idle voltage:

Extreme LLC - 1.296/1.304
Ultra High LLC - 1.304/1.312
High LLC - 1.296/1.304

Isn't it weird that Ultra High produces even more idle voltage than Extreme?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


I think the monitor value seen in UEFI is approximately the same as the one in CPU-Z, is this correct? Because I've noticed that they roughly give the same value.

Here are my observations:

UEFI Monitor:

Extreme LLC - 1.296/1.304
Ultra High LLC - 1.304/1.312
High LLC - 1.296/1.304

CPU-z idle voltage:

Extreme LLC - 1.296/1.304
Ultra High LLC - 1.304/1.312
High LLC - 1.296/1.304

Isn't it weird that Ultra High produces even more idle voltage than Extreme?


Everything here must be 100% normal because that's how it is for you and it's working fine.









I didn't mess with Manual voltage enough to notice these things.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Everything here must be 100% normal because that's how it is for you and it's working fine.









I didn't mess with Manual voltage enough to notice these things.


Oh ok. Is having a 0 VDrop or even a reverse VDrop (CPUZ idle voltage higher than what is set in UEFI) good or bad?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Oh ok. Is having a 0 VDrop or even a reverse VDrop (CPUZ idle voltage higher than what is set in UEFI) good or bad?


I don't know if whether or not it should be considered good *or* bad. At least, I don't know yet.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


I don't know if whether or not it should be considered good *or* bad. At least, I don't know yet.


Ok. I guess I should bring up this concern in the Sandy Stable club.

I also don't understand why the reading of CPU-Z and the UEFI monitor are the same when I expected that they shouldn't be.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Ok. I guess I should bring up this concern in the Sandy Stable club.

I also don't understand why the reading of CPU-Z and the UEFI monitor are the same when I expected that they shouldn't be.


Well, both Sandy Bridge and 1155 motherboards are very different from previous generations.

So everything you're experiencing is probably perfectly normal. I mean, I am also considering that this is the first time in the past 3Â½ months (since the day I started paying attention to Sandy Bridge) that I've ever seen this brought up.


----------



## keto

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Everywhere, actually. lol!

Let me just confirm, the idle VCore in CPU-Z (at desired multi) is always lower than the one set in UEFI, right? Because of VDrop.

*No. I just got my ASUS board tonight, vcore set and CPUz read are the same - within .01v, you are focussing on .004-.01v which is too small to matter. Ignore fluctuations that small. On my cheaper Gigabyte board though, with much less built-up power regulation, I did see more drop. Also, I haven't tested this on the ASUS board yet, but, the higher my LLC level, the lower my idle vcore would be - it could be way under what was set in bios when I used a higher level LLC.*

And VDroop makes the load VCore in CPU-Z always less than the idle VCore (at desired multi), correct? *Depends on your LLC level. At middle levels, probably. At Extreme, I've load voltage +.020 or +.025*

Is it recommended to set PLL voltage initially at 1.7V?


I just re-upped my PLL to 1.8...to many variables changing at once, but I'm trying to get 4.8 right off the bat. at 1.7 I wasn't stable, but again I'm not necessarily pointing my fingers there. On my Gigabyte board I was fine at 1.710.

Now I have a question of my own...I switched out from a 2500K to a 2600K tonight...is the 2600K known to be hotter than the 2500K? I'm about 7-8C higher, and don't know whether that's because I changed out the thermal compound from stock on the H80 to AS5, or is it the nature of more cores running (which would be logical)?

The 2600 isn't a 'golden chip', oh well. Taking more vcore at 4.8 than my 2500 did, though only a small increment more.


----------



## SectorNine50

Hiya!
I'd like to join this club, if I may... I've got a P8P67 EVO!


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15491495*
> Get the latest bios and get a good 4.5 - 4.8GHz Prime95 Blend stable overclock, and you're pretty much set
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That CM Hyper 212+ will handle about 1.4v full load Vcore. So 4.5GHz is a given, and if you have a good 2500K, then 4.7GHz - 4.9GHz could be done with that cooler. As long as you stay with Prime95, and stay away from that ridiculous LinX/IBT AVX enabled overkill test.


nice. will stay at stock untill I'm sure it's stable. To many bad day's with the gene-z. And over the p5b c2d 6300 it's lightning fast 

ohh, can you add me to the list ? so I can wear the badge on honor


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SectorNine50;15495700*
> Hiya!
> I'd like to join this club, if I may... I've got a P8P67 EVO!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxmekker;15496312*
> nice. will stay at stock untill I'm sure it's stable. To many bad day's with the gene-z. And over the p5b c2d 6300 it's lightning fast
> 
> ohh, can you add me to the list ? so I can wear the badge on honor


Added you guys! Welcome to the Club!









*maxmekker:* Crossing my fingers for you having better luck with this board









Here are a couple of signatures to choose from:

*Main Signature -* *>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>*


PHP:


[B][I][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>[/URL][/I][/B]

*Main2 Signature -* *>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>*


PHP:


[B][I][URL="https://www.overclock.net/THREADs"]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>[/URL][/I][/B]


----------



## turrican9

It would be nice if you guys could post more pictures of your systems









I've ordered a camera now, so I will add pictures, other than those crappy mobilephone ones


----------



## crayneogeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keto;15494565*
> The 2600 isn't a 'golden chip', oh well. Taking more vcore at 4.8 than my 2500 did, though only a small increment more.


Turn off hyperthreading and your temps will go back to what they were on the 2500.


----------



## turrican9

No matter what, temps will vary from chip to chip. Even if they run the same Vcore, cooling and have the same ambients.

Each chip is different. Looks like a trend that the chips with the lowest VID (Usually the best overclockers) actually run hotter VS the ones with high VID (Usually the bad overclockers) when at the same Vcore.

But of course, disabling Hyperthreading in a 2600K will help temps greatly, and also will help achieving the same overclock at a lower Vcore VS HT-On.


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15490578*
> *TwoCables*
> 
> A little off topic: What are your max load temps on that ASUS DirectCU II GTX 580?


I have the same card. I overstressing it a bit







.

Here is a screenshot a little bit scaled. That upload limit









hmar


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar;15498432*
> I have the same card. I overstressing it a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Here is a screenshot a little bit scaled. That upload limit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmar


Wow! Nice temp for 922MHz and 1.1v on the GPU. Clearly that cooler is doing a great job!


----------



## keto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15497784*
> No matter what, temps will vary from chip to chip. Even if they run the same Vcore, cooling and have the same ambients.
> 
> Each chip is different. Looks like a trend that the chips with the lowest VID (Usually the best overclockers) actually run hotter VS the ones with high VID (Usually the bad overclockers) when at the same Vcore.
> 
> But of course, disabling Hyperthreading in a 2600K will help temps greatly, and also will help achieving the same overclock at a lower Vcore VS HT-On.


I've done so much reading, here and elsewhere, in the past month that I don't remember half of it (who am I kidding, I don't remember 15% of it). Is turning off HT normal course of action when OC 2600K?

Just experimenting along, I turned the system to 'Performance' in the first screen in bios, enabled XMP, left multis alone (and offset & LLC auto), and still ended up with a 4.4 overclock - nice! It scores higher in 3DM11 than 2500K did at 4.8....not 'the ultimate' benchmark I recognize, but as it's built to be primarily a gaming machine, I'll take that. Lots more tweaking to come, as leaving all that stuff on auto just goes against my grain







.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keto;15498837*
> I've done so much reading, here and elsewhere, in the past month that I don't remember half of it (who am I kidding, I don't remember 15% of it). Is turning off HT normal course of action when OC 2600K?
> 
> Just experimenting along, I turned the system to 'Performance' in the first screen in bios, enabled XMP, left multis alone (and offset & LLC auto), and still ended up with a 4.4 overclock - nice! It scores higher in 3DM11 than 2500K did at 4.8....not 'the ultimate' benchmark I recognize, but as it's built to be primarily a gaming machine, I'll take that. Lots more tweaking to come, as leaving all that stuff on auto just goes against my grain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If you disable HT the point of having a 2600K VS a 2500K would be gone, so no, I do not recommend it for other reasons then testing your highest overclock. For 24/7 overclock I would leave it on.

If going manual overclock I suggest you try *TwoCables* template, posted in the second post of this thread. Only things I would recommend you to change in contrast to that template is set your RAM manual to stock, speed/timings/volts and choose the multiplier and Vcore for your CPU.

Also use Prime95 Blend for 12 hours + to check for stability.


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15497130*
> It would be nice if you guys could post more pictures of your systems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've ordered a camera now, so I will add pictures, other than those crappy mobilephone ones


Sure, yet another exuse to fire up my brand new 60d.. 

But my pc is just boring. Nothing to write home about..


----------



## k0smo86

I have a question about PCI slots. I have a 9500GT just sitting around, I'd love to plug it in just to fold 24/7. If I put this in my mobo, will I lose any bandwidth or game performance? Should I just put it in the other PCI slot?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxmekker;15499090*
> Sure, yet another exuse to fire up my brand new 60d..
> 
> But my pc is just boring. Nothing to write home about..


Thanks! Posted a link behind your nick in the members list








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k0smo86;15499106*
> I have a question about PCI slots. I have a 9500GT just sitting around, I'd love to plug it in just to fold 24/7. If I put this in my mobo, will I lose any bandwidth or game performance? Should I just put it in the other PCI slot?


If you put it in the second PCI-E x16 slot and have the GTX 570 in the upper PCI-E x16 slot, both cards will use x8 instead of x16. But there will be almost no performance loss anyway.

BTW: Hope I can celebrate my coming 5K posts in this Club with you great people!


----------



## turrican9

*maxmekker*

I see you are in need of a new case... I've been looking at the Cooler Master Storm Enforcer today... Looks like a great case, and with a nice Window!













http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5nbVcayq8c[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## spritepr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15500427*
> *maxmekker*
> 
> I see you are in need of a new case... I've been looking at the Cooler Master Storm Enforcer today... Looks like a great case, and with a nice Window!


Wow looks great I'm in need of a new case and will definitively be looking at this one.


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15500427*
> *maxmekker*
> 
> I see you are in need of a new case... I've been looking at the Cooler Master Storm Enforcer today... Looks like a great case, and with a nice Window!


hehe. yeah, the lian li is boring, and a tad tight. Thanks for the heads up man.

Oh. side note. My computer keep faling a sleep  I went into power options and clicked the option that is turning off the hd/monitor after so and so while, but it still did it. Not sure I restarted since I'm updating my world of tanks game( 2 gig on a slow net) so that might be it if that's required.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


hehe. yeah, the lian li is boring, and a tad tight. Thanks for the heads up man.

Oh. side note. My computer keep faling a sleep  I went into power options and clicked the option that is turning off the hd/monitor after so and so while, but it still did it. Not sure I restarted since I'm updating my world of tanks game( 2 gig on a slow net) so that might be it if that's required.


I think the latest bios is supposed to remedy the sleep problem if Internal PLL Overvoltage option are enabled. But please keep it disabled if you don't need it (Under x48 multiplier for CPU).

BTW: This is my 5K post! Yeeahhh!!!


----------



## maxmekker

That's a lot of post man. cheers

bios, that would be the 0801 ore 0902. I see the date's, but the bios number, sometimes confusing. On the gene-z they listed one , and the next day it was beta, and another bios was released at the same time.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


That's a lot of post man. cheers

bios, that would be the 0801 ore 0902. I see the date's, but the bios number, sometimes confusing. On the gene-z they listed one , and the next day it was beta, and another bios was released at the same time.


The two latest, the ones who says 22nm CPU support have fixed the sleeping bug







But this bug only occurs if you have internal PLL overvoltage feature enabled







And only reason for that is if you cannot boot Windows at 48x multi +


----------



## hmar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I think the latest bios is supposed to remedy the sleep problem if Internal PLL Overvoltage option are enabled. But please keep it disabled if you don't need it (Under x48 multiplier for CPU).

BTW: This is my 5K post! Yeeahhh!!!










First of all Congratulations !!!























I have a bad boy then, he don't want to boot if Internal PLL Overvoltage is not from x45 on and hangs on the windows generic , however I can set the voltage to 1.4 - 1.5. I have a bad overclocker : VID=1.376V at 4.5 is not a good sign... 4.6Ghz







is the max until now, unless I should find something by manipulating VCCSA, VCCIO, PCH voltages...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15501437*
> The two latest, the ones who says 22nm CPU support have fixed the sleeping bug
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But this bug only occurs if you have internal PLL overvoltage feature enabled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And only reason for that is if you cannot boot Windows at 48x multi +


Do you mean that the 0801 also fixed the sleeping bug or just the 0902?


----------



## kevindd992002

For overclocking, is the P8Z68-V Pro better than the P8Z68-V considering it has more phases than the latter?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15506835*
> For overclocking, is the P8Z68-V Pro better than the P8Z68-V considering it has more phases than the latter?


Both are 16 phase boards according to Asus' website. All you "need" is a 10 phase board to get the most out of a SB chip. So either board is fine. It's features that are different.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15506835*
> For overclocking, is the P8Z68-V Pro better than the P8Z68-V considering it has more phases than the latter?


Here, look at this: http://www.overclock.net/15482553-post4719.html


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15506849*
> Both are 16 phase boards according to Asus' website. All you "need" is a 10 phase board to get the most out of a SB chip. So either board is fine. It's features that are different.


I guess I've misread the differences between both boards somewhere. Thanks!


----------



## alexman

Hey guys, got another question regarding the P8P67 Pro!

Long story short: got new RAM, somehow didn't place one of the two sticks in firmly which led to the CPU fan going 100% (least it sounded like it was going 100%). Is that supposed to happen if you accidentally do what I did?

If anything the RAM is working fine -- both sticks passed several tests of Memtest.


----------



## RainMotorsports

If the computer didnt post its likely it just defaulted to full speed to protect the cpu since the system was in a state of non function. Pretty normal.


----------



## Fortunex

Yeah, my fans whir up to max speed before my rig posts as well, then go down once the fan control kicks in. It's normal.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15506782*
> Do you mean that the 0801 also fixed the sleeping bug or just the 0902?


I suspect both of them have this issue fixed. I believe the latest bioses for the whole P8P67/P8Z68 series fixes the sleep issue when Internal PLL Overvoltage is enabled.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexman;15507154*
> Hey guys, got another question regarding the P8P67 Pro!
> 
> Long story short: got new RAM, somehow didn't place one of the two sticks in firmly which led to the CPU fan going 100% (least it sounded like it was going 100%). Is that supposed to happen if you accidentally do what I did?
> 
> If anything the RAM is working fine -- both sticks passed several tests of Memtest.


I had simmilar situation only my cpu fans always spin 100% (no pwm)
but that makes me wonder now.....did that led my EPS connector to melt? no ram damage whatsoever.

Sent using force mind trick from my SGS


----------



## SectorNine50

Hiya guys,
Been working on getting my 24/7 clockspeed sorted with the lowest possible voltage. I'm very conservative when it comes to 24/7 temps, so my goal was to keep the cores at around 60 max.

I think I pretty much got it dialed at the settings in the attached picture.

I had a conversation with TwoCables in another thread about LLC, and it was very helpful and informative. However, I noticed something about my voltages that was a little curious to me. They seem to swing from a range of 2.88v to 3.04v when under load.

I've folded for 12+ hours at these settings without an issue, I just thought it was curious that the range was so big, and was wondering if there is something I should be looking out for?

Oh, and ignore the memory timings, I haven't attacked those yet!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SectorNine50*


Hiya guys,
Been working on getting my 24/7 clockspeed sorted with the lowest possible voltage. I'm very conservative when it comes to 24/7 temps, so my goal was to keep the cores at around 60 max.

I think I pretty much got it dialed at the settings in the attached picture.

I had a conversation with TwoCables in another thread about LLC, and it was very helpful and informative. However, I noticed something about my voltages that was a little curious to me. They seem to swing from a range of 2.88v to 3.04v when under load.

I've folded for 12+ hours at these settings without an issue, I just thought it was curious that the range was so big, and was wondering if there is something I should be looking out for?

Oh, and ignore the memory timings, I haven't attacked those yet!










I guess you meant 1.288v - 1.304v.. This is perfectly normal. I'm guessing you use Ultra High LLC? Anyway, perfectly normal. Will vary a little with different load.


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I guess you meant 1.288v - 1.304v.. This is perfectly normal. I'm guessing you use Ultra High LLC? Anyway, perfectly normal. Will vary a little with different load.


Whoops, yeah that's what I meant... Haha

I'm actually on Medium LLC. Low-load voltages got too low on high, every once-in-a-while the system would 101 BSOD when idling. Moving it to medium and bumping up the offset one notch did the trick.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SectorNine50*


Whoops, yeah that's what I meant... Haha

I'm actually on Medium LLC. Low-load voltages got too low on high, every once-in-a-while the system would 101 BSOD when idling. Moving it to medium and bumping up the offset one notch did the trick.


You did disable C3 and C6, right?

Also, the way I see it LLC is adjusted mainly for the idle voltage only? I mean you can set LLC from Low to Ultra High and just adjust the Offset to get the same load voltage but the idle voltage goes higher when you go lower LLC, is this correct?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


Also, the way I see it LLC is adjusted mainly for the idle voltage only? I mean you can set LLC from Low to Ultra High and just adjust the Offset to get the same load voltage but the idle voltage goes higher when you go lower LLC, is this correct?



Why do you feel the need to confirm something of which I have taking the time to explain to you? If you don't understand then simily say so, this forum operates in a way where wrong info is not shared therefore I believe that the info that I share is from experience and research from I've obtained through reading and such and with honesty I try to explain things with the best of my ability.

http://www.overclock.net/15510134-post5092.html

Was there something that you didn't understand from that post?


----------



## keto

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


You did disable C3 and C6, right?

Also, the way I see it LLC is adjusted mainly for the idle voltage only? I mean you can set LLC from Low to Ultra High and just adjust the Offset to get the same load voltage but the idle voltage goes higher when you go lower LLC, is this correct?


Yes. Some might just adjust LLC to a lower level because they don't like the 'spike' at load on a higher level, but I don't see it that way, or at least haven't seen evidence that would make me think that way. I *know* load voltage is higher, but some have said it can spike - I haven't observed this or seen evidence of it posted, just general talk of it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1;15516053*
> Why do you feel the need to confirm something of which I have taking the time to explain to you? If you don't understand then simily say so, this forum operates in a way where wrong info is not shared therefore I believe that the info that I share is from experience and research from I've obtained through reading and such and with honesty I try to explain things with the best of my ability.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/15510134-post5092.html
> 
> Was there something that you didn't understand from that post?


Please don't get me wrong. I understand all your posts regarding the answers to my questions. I'm simply a curious person, many would consider it overthinking but I just want to know how things work. I'm a licensed Electronics Engineer in my country and I'm always into details with regards to these electronics stuff









I come up with more questions after reading answers from this thread, is that really not good in here?


----------



## carajito

Hello all, I just finished installing my new PC, is I7 with a P8Z68-V PRO mobo

The red led from BOOT_DEVICE_LED goes on and One beep. Anyone knows hot to fix this problem? I cant see nothing on my screen.
CPU LED off
MEM LED off
VGA LED off

I installed two EVGA gtx 470 SLI, 1 ssd SATA 3 and 2 HHD sata 2

I already cleared CMOS, Swap HHD's and SSd and nothing

What can I do ? Thanks


----------



## BYUSinger84

Is there a waiting period before I can send a PM? I wanted to join the list of owners.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BYUSinger84;15516541*
> Is there a waiting period before I can send a PM? I wanted to join the list of owners.


I reckon that you need at least 5/10 posts before you can send a PM, not sure. Read the rules


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BYUSinger84;15516541*
> Is there a waiting period before I can send a PM? I wanted to join the list of owners.


no "waiting period", just whenever user "turrican9" signs on...

and FYI, you don't have to manually type your rig info in your signature...there's a preset form you can fill out by clicking "User CP" at the top of this page and click "Add System".


----------



## kevindd992002

How different is "By All Cores" and "By Per Core"? Juan Jose recommended By Per Core in his guide in the OP.


----------



## TwoCables

I have a TON of catching up to do in this thread, but I need to reply right now to get this out of the way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15517079*
> How different is "By All Cores" and "By Per Core"? Juan Jose recommended By Per Core in his guide in the OP.


When you come up with new questions, ask the person who made the post that caused you to come up with new questions. Ask *them* for more information or clarification.

For example, if someone tells you something and if what they told you makes you have more questions, then ask that person. It's not good practice to go and confirm it with others behind their back. It's even worse to say _"Hey guys, John said this. Is it true?"_ Instead, ask the person (in my example, ask "John"). Or at the very least, don't use their name if you go trying to confirm their statement "behind their back". I mean, at the very least, just say _"I recently learned this from a different thread. Is it true?"_ However, it's still better to ask the person who said it for proof.

Anyway, the difference between By All Cores and By Per Core is simply this: if you use By Per Core, then you can get fancy and try using a different multiplier for each core (or for just one of the cores). If you don't care about being able to do that, then just use By All Cores.

The reason why Juan Jose recommend By Per Core is so that he could show everyone that this feature exists. After all, he is simultaneously trying to help sell the motherboard.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15517334*
> I have a TON of catching up to do in this thread, but I need to reply right now to get this out of the way.
> 
> When you come up with new questions, ask the person who made the post that caused you to come up with new questions. Ask *them* for more information or clarification.
> 
> For example, if someone tells you something and if what they told you makes you have more questions, then ask that person. It's not good practice to go and confirm it with others behind their back. It's even worse to say _"Hey guys, John said this. Is it true?"_ Instead, ask the person (in my example, ask "John"). Or at the very least, don't use their name if you go trying to confirm their statement "behind their back". I mean, at the very least, just say _"I recently learned this from a different thread. Is it true?"_ However, it's still better to ask the person who said it for proof.
> 
> Anyway, the difference between By All Cores and By Per Core is simply this: if you use By Per Core, then you can get fancy and try using a different multiplier for each core (or for just one of the cores). If you don't care about being able to do that, then just use By All Cores.
> 
> The reason why Juan Jose recommend By Per Core is so that he could show everyone that this feature exists. After all, he is simultaneously trying to help sell the motherboard.


Ok. Sorry for that, I hope it doesn't sound like me name-dropping again









Anyway, thanks for the info.


----------



## Krully

I'm looking at getting a sound card for my P8Z68-V Pro. My choices are these two:
ASUS Xense Premium Gaming Audio Set
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD

I was wondering if anyone here has had any problems with these cards with this mobo or if there is anything else I should consider before purchasing one of them?

I am currently running Sli, so would it be better to have it in the PCI-E x1 above my top GPU cards, in between them both or below in the PCI-E x4 slot?

Maybe a lame Question, but still trying to learn.

Pic included.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keto;15516071*
> Yes. Some might just adjust LLC to a lower level because they don't like the 'spike' at load on a higher level, but I don't see it that way, or at least haven't seen evidence that would make me think that way. I *know* load voltage is higher, but some have said it can spike - I haven't observed this or seen evidence of it posted, just general talk of it.


These "spikes" are so short in duration that no software will ever show it (or possibly even detect it). Besides, our motherboards are so good that they effortlessly and flawlessly protect our CPUs from these spikes.

Older, low-quality boards from previous generations just don't have what it takes to properly protect the CPU - even if there's an LLC option in the BIOS.

So with the boards we have, there's absolutely no worry.

Just in case you increase your LLC and see a higher core voltage: that's only vRise and it's safe.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15518133*
> These "spikes" are so short in duration that no software will ever show it (or possibly even detect it). Besides, our motherboards are so good that they effortlessly and flawlessly protect our CPUs from these spikes.
> 
> Older, low-quality boards from previous generations just don't have what it takes to properly protect the CPU - even if there's an LLC option in the BIOS.
> 
> So with the boards we have, there's absolutely no worry.
> 
> Just in case you increase your LLC and see a higher core voltage: that's only vRise and it's safe.


New term: vRise. What is it by definition? Exact opposite of vDrop?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15518232*
> New term: vRise. What is it by definition? Exact opposite of vDrop?


It's the exact opposite of vDroop.


----------



## keto

Ya, using a very high LLC level means load volts will be more than what's set in bios, that's vrise.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keto;15519371*
> Ya, using a very high LLC level means load volts will be more than what's set in bios, that's vrise.


I guess we don't like that, right?


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15515740*
> You did disable C3 and C6, right?
> 
> Also, the way I see it LLC is adjusted mainly for the idle voltage only? I mean you can set LLC from Low to Ultra High and just adjust the Offset to get the same load voltage but the idle voltage goes higher when you go lower LLC, is this correct?


No I didn't. Reason being, the second post in this thread references that disabling C3 and C6 may potentially cause HDD and SDD performance loss. I just corrected the low voltage at idle by using a lower LLC and a one-step-higher offset setting. Haven't had a BSOD since.

Plus, I like allowing the processor to go into a sleep and deep-sleep state.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BYUSinger84*


Is there a waiting period before I can send a PM? I wanted to join the list of owners.


Added you! Welcome!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


I guess we don't like that, right?


Well, it's safe and everything, but why allow it to result in vRise when one of the other LLC options can come very close to completely eliminating vDroop?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


Well, it's safe and everything, but why allow it to result in vRise when one of the other LLC options can come very close to completely eliminating vDroop?


And this option is Ultra High for ASUS boards, I suppose?


----------



## munaim1

Arghhhhhhh!!!!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


And this option is Ultra High for ASUS boards, I suppose?


Usually, but some are finding that High or Medium is the LLC option that achieves it. Experimentation is always absolutely necessary because each system is unique. Each motherboard is unique, each CPU is unique, etc.


----------



## turrican9

*munaim1*

You and others have had success by lowering the CPU PLL Voltage when overclocking. I remember something about a 'sweetspot'.

Well, I've had no change when lowering CPU PLL as long as I can remember.

But turns out I had little luck with LLC at High VS Ultra High, even though I compensatet my Offset to get about the same Vcore at load, LLC at High caused Blend to fail pretty fast...

That is until I began experimenting with lowering CPU PLL when LLC at High.. I've always tried lowering CPU PLL when LLC at Ultra High. And actually now it seems I've stabilized LLC High by lowering CPU PLL to 1.73125v...

Reason for me wanting High LLC VS Ultra High is to try and avoid BSOD's when C3/C6 are enabled.

So my question to you... Did you always use LLC at High when getting positive results from lowering CPU PLL, or did you also conduct this testing with LLC at Ultra High?


----------



## munaim1

not really, I've actually set the LLC accordingly to how the load vcore reacts to certain overclocks. Once I find the correct LLC I go onto the other voltages, I do believe I have set it to ultra high and test the pll, however since moving to High I've not made any changes apart from going to the offset voltage. My PLL was around 1.55v.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


not really, I've actually set the LLC accordingly to how the load vcore reacts to certain overclocks. Once I find the correct LLC I go onto the other voltages, I do believe I have set it to ultra high and test the pll, however since moving to High I've not made any changes apart from going to the offset voltage. My PLL was around 1.55v.


Well, turns out I still have no success with LLC at High.

Also, cannot manage to get my previous 4.8GHz overclock stable at previous tested Vcore. Difference is I use 2001 bios now, and 1850 when I submitted in the Sandy Stable Club.

However, even with the 1850 bios It sometimes could get unstable again at the same Vcore.

I'm switching to manual Vcore now and LLC at Ultra High. Hoping manul Voltage is more stable at these higher speeds.

4.7GHz is rock solid when using Offset though.

Edit: I've focused too much on Offset Vcore I believe..

Edit2: Actually seems I'm getting a more stable Vcore when using manual Vcore Ultra High LLC VS Offset Ultra High LLC. Same Vcore range, but seems it is not dropping so much when manual Vcore. This is at 4.8GHz....

Edit3: Just ignore all this. Seems I have had some strange problem related to CPU Spread Spectrum again. Was not stable at 4.7GHz anymore either. Disabled CPU Spread Spectrum, and now all seems better. Still testing..


----------



## BoomerM3

I recently completed a build of an ASUS P8Z68-V LX with an Intel I5 2400 (no alterations).

I seem to have an issue with my CPU fan or CPU temperature. Or maybe just strange readings. Without having altered any Bios settings, the fans seemed to create a vibration in the case.

The initial readings were: CPU temperature: 48C and fan speed: 1350-1400 RPM. I used the ASUS Suite for these measurements and verified them in the Bios. I then went into the Bios and changed the CPU Fan Profile from Standard to Silent. The CPU Q-Fan Control was enabled.

I then looked at the readings again. The CPU temperature: 32C and Fan speed: 1100-1140 RPM. Readings verified in the Bios and also with the ASUS Suite.

NO, there is no typo. When I reduced the fan speed, the temperature of the CPU dropped 16 degrees.

Different programs are reporting wildly different readings in normal working mode.

ASUS: CPU fan: 1100-1140 CPU temp: 32 C
Speed Fan: CPU fan: 1110-1140 CPU temp: 85 C
CPUID: CPU fan: 1130-49,663 CPU temp: 87 C
also reports core temps = 36 C

Which do I believe?

What is an OK range for the CPU temperature (I5 2500)?

Can I lower the CPU fan speed further with the hope of running quieter without overheating?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BoomerM3*


I recently completed a build of an ASUS P8Z68-V LX with an Intel I5 2400 (no alterations).

I seem to have an issue with my CPU fan or CPU temperature. Or maybe just strange readings. Without having altered any Bios settings, the fans seemed to create a vibration in the case.

The initial readings were: CPU temperature: 48C and fan speed: 1350-1400 RPM. I used the ASUS Suite for these measurements and verified them in the Bios. I then went into the Bios and changed the CPU Fan Profile from Standard to Silent. The CPU Q-Fan Control was enabled.

I then looked at the readings again. The CPU temperature: 32C and Fan speed: 1100-1140 RPM. Readings verified in the Bios and also with the ASUS Suite.

NO, there is no typo. When I reduced the fan speed, the temperature of the CPU dropped 16 degrees.

Different programs are reporting wildly different readings in normal working mode.

ASUS: CPU fan: 1100-1140 CPU temp: 32 C
Speed Fan: CPU fan: 1110-1140 CPU temp: 85 C
CPUID: CPU fan: 1130-49,663 CPU temp: 87 C
also reports core temps = 36 C

Which do I believe?

What is an OK range for the CPU temperature (I5 2500)?

Can I lower the CPU fan speed further with the hope of running quieter without overheating?


Please try out HWiNFO 32/64. Working excellent for most people.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Please try out HWiNFO 32/64. Working excellent for most people.


Ah yes, I've been using that for a while now and love it! lol


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sean Webster*


Ah yes, I've been using that for a while now and love it! lol


It really have all the monitoring you need. Excellent free program







Ai Suite II is not even worth installing with all it's false alerts and mediocre monitoring


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


It really have all the monitoring you need. Excellent free program







Ai Suite II is not even worth installing with all it's false alerts and mediocre monitoring










Haha, I have that installed too









I just got two warnings now that you mention it haha


----------



## BYUSinger84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;15516629*
> no "waiting period", just whenever user "turrican9" signs on...
> 
> and FYI, you don't have to manually type your rig info in your signature...there's a preset form you can fill out by clicking "User CP" at the top of this page and click "Add System".


I tried to send him a PM when he was on...hmmm. ok I'll try agian later.

As for my sig, I just copied and pasted from another forum. I'll setup the system though, that looks cooler. Thanks.


----------



## Z68 DELUXE MAN

Hi There, First time using this site and would like to know how to optimize asus p8z68 deluxe bios to boot faster without ssd??

Thanks


----------



## stasio

MAXIMUS-IV-GENE-Z-GEN3-ASUS-0402

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/Maximus_IV_GENE-Z_GEN3/MAXIMUS-IV-GENE-Z-GEN3-ASUS-0402.zip


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio;15527560*
> MAXIMUS-IV-GENE-Z-GEN3-ASUS-0402
> 
> ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/Maximus_IV_GENE-Z_GEN3/MAXIMUS-IV-GENE-Z-GEN3-ASUS-0402.zip


Wrong thread, maybe?


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15527835*
> Wrong thread, maybe?


The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/*GEN3* Series Owners Club


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio;15529052*
> The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/*GEN3* Series Owners Club


Yeah GEN3 for the P8Z68? Lol. If it were generally for GEN3 boards, why would it still list P8Z68/GEN3 when P8Z68 is already indicated by P8P67/P8Z68?


----------



## turrican9

If I did it this way: P8P67/P8Z68/GEN3 it would look as if P8P67 also had GEN3 revisions, and would just confuse.

That is why I have to use P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 in the naming.

Any better suggestions?

Also, If it is P8P67 or P8Z68 in the naming, it does not include the ROG boards or Sabertooth boards.

All boards supported by this Owners Club are listed in the top of the first post of this thread.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


If I did it this way: P8P67/P8Z68/GEN3 it would look as if P8P67 also had GEN3 revisions, and would just confuse.

That is why I have to use P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 in the naming.

Any better suggestions?

Also, If it is P8P67 or P8Z68 in the naming, it does not include the ROG boards or Sabertooth boards.

All boards supported by this Owners Club are listed in the top of the first post of this thread.


Thanks for clearing that up


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Z68 DELUXE MAN*


Hi There, First time using this site and would like to know how to optimize asus p8z68 deluxe bios to boot faster without ssd??

Thanks


I recommend disabling as much as you possibly can inside of Advanced > Onboard Devices Configuration. This includes the Marvell Storage Controller and JMB Storage Controller. The navy blue (darker blue) ports are the Marvell ports and the JMB Storage Controller is for eSATA.

Also, I recommend going into the Boot tab and disabling Full Screen Logo. Then a new option appears where you can choose from different settings where one of them is "1 Second". Choose "1 Second".









Also, set Internal PLL Overvoltage to Disabled. This shaves off another 2-3 seconds from the POST time.

That's all I can think of.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stasio*


The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/*GEN3* Series Owners Club










But it is not a P8P67 or P8Z68 board. This thread is only for P8P67 and P8Z68 series owners which is now including the Gen3 versions.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BYUSinger84*


I tried to send him a PM when he was on...hmmm. ok I'll try agian later.

As for my sig, I just copied and pasted from another forum. I'll setup the system though, that looks cooler. Thanks.


You've been added after your first post mate


----------



## turrican9

*disophisis*, a P8P67 WS Revolution Owner added to the Owners Club! Welcome!


----------



## FicmanS

New user checkin


----------



## Name Change

P8p67 pro 3.1 ftw.


----------



## turrican9

*FicmanS*, a P8P67 EVO Owner, *dezahp*, a P8P67 Deluxe Owner and *Name Change*, a P8P67 PRO 3.1 Owner added to the Club! Welcome!









BTW: Just got my new camera here. Learning to use it.. Here is a somewhat bad picture of my system, but still better than mobile pictures


----------



## Timotei

Hi. 
I have just built my first system in years after using a laptop for a long time. I have tweaked my Windows comfortably and applied a 4.6ghz manual overclock (I installed AIsuite II just to test the auto tuning which gave a BSOD at 4.6ghz during AIsuite's stress test. I will probably just uninstall the whole thing). I have only done a couple of 2 hour stress tests so far on different settings, but I will do the 12 hour test when I feel more confident about my settings.

I am now running in offset mode +0.020v at 1.360v-1.368v under Prime95 blend load and 0.960v-1.112v idle, but this is while using LLC of High instead of Ultra High. At Ultra High I can not set my offset lower than +0.020v because of idle BSOD (124) where Vcore goes down in the 0.8v region so if I use LLC at Ultra High I am stuck at Load Vcore at 1.382v-1.400v with Offset +0.020v. Now, it seems that the only ways for me to achieve the same result at Ultra High is to try and disable CStates 3 and 6 to get higher idle Vcore or just find the lowest set voltage and keep it at that, though I like the offset option more.

(4.6ghz got BSOD 124 at set Vcore of 1.350v while IDLE...!? If it was a random spike to 4.6ghz that caused it that's fine as 1.350v probably is too low for my chip, but if it was idle then I don't understand why I got a BSOD 124)

There are a lot of different statements about CStates floating around and it seemes they should be set to enabled or the SSD's might drop in performance. Some people though have said that they actually get better performance out of their SSD after disabling CStates as the CStates does not let them continuously perform at their maximum performance.

I basicly understand LLC, but what excactly are the downside of using LLC High instead of Ultra High?
Some say to set Phase Duty to Extreme already from 4.4ghz+ while ASUS recommends T.Probe below 4.8ghz. Will I benefit from the Extreme setting?
Are there anyone with very strong opinions or experiences with the CStates stuff?


----------



## maxmekker

Turrican, what type of camera did you get. ?


----------



## Velathawen

Hey guys, got a quick question:

If I use a full size cooler like one of the following, would the top PCI slot be blocked from use on a P8Z68-V Pro?

Cogage Arrow - 147mm 
Silver Arrow - 160mm

Thanks!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maxmekker*


Turrican, what type of camera did you get. ?


Just a simple one I think. This one.. http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=631514

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Velathawen*


Hey guys, got a quick question:

If I use a full size cooler like one of the following, would the top PCI slot be blocked from use on a P8Z68-V Pro?

Cogage Arrow - 147mm 
Silver Arrow - 160mm

Thanks!


If you're talking about the top PCI-E x16 slot, no I don't think they will block it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timotei;15552695*
> Hi.
> I have just built my first system in years after using a laptop for a long time. I have tweaked my Windows comfortably and applied a 4.6ghz manual overclock (I installed AIsuite II just to test the auto tuning which gave a BSOD at 4.6ghz during AIsuite's stress test. I will probably just uninstall the whole thing). I have only done a couple of 2 hour stress tests so far on different settings, but I will do the 12 hour test when I feel more confident about my settings.
> 
> I am now running in offset mode +0.020v at 1.360v-1.368v under Prime95 blend load and 0.960v-1.112v idle, but this is while using LLC of High instead of Ultra High. At Ultra High I can not set my offset lower than +0.020v because of idle BSOD (124) where Vcore goes down in the 0.8v region so if I use LLC at Ultra High I am stuck at Load Vcore at 1.382v-1.400v with Offset +0.020v. Now, it seems that the only ways for me to achieve the same result at Ultra High is to try and disable CStates 3 and 6 to get higher idle Vcore or just find the lowest set voltage and keep it at that, though I like the offset option more.


Hey, you're discovering the same thing that others here have discovered and have even told me about: using High instead of Ultra High can sometimes mean that C3 and C6 can be enabled.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timotei;15552695*
> (4.6ghz got BSOD 124 at set Vcore of 1.350v while IDLE...!? If it was a random spike to 4.6ghz that caused it that's fine as 1.350v probably is too low for my chip, but if it was idle then I don't understand why I got a BSOD 124)


I don't know how to help with this occurrence of BSOD 124.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timotei;15552695*
> There are a lot of different statements about CStates floating around and it seemes they should be set to enabled or the SSD's might drop in performance. Some people though have said that they actually get better performance out of their SSD after disabling CStates as the CStates does not let them continuously perform at their maximum performance.


JJ at ASUS says that when using high multipliers of like 50x or higher, "HD" performance can suffer - especially SATA III - if C3 and C6 are disabled (he means "hard drive", but he's probably using this as a generic term for both hard drives and solid state drives). However, he doesn't say that it will definitely suffer, but just that it's possible. So, I'm not surprised that some people are having better results with C3 and C6 disabled because it almost sounds like it's a Your Mileage May Vary situation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timotei;15552695*
> I basicly understand LLC, but what excactly are the downside of using LLC High instead of Ultra High?


None, as far as I know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timotei;15552695*
> Some say to set Phase Duty to Extreme already from 4.4ghz+ while ASUS recommends T.Probe below 4.8ghz. Will I benefit from the Extreme setting?


I don't know. I have even seen guides recommending T.Probe for 4.8GHz (that is, they don't even discuss changing it).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timotei;15552695*
> Are there anyone with very strong opinions or experiences with the CStates stuff?


I'm using an Offset voltage and Ultra High, and a couple of months ago I had C3 and C6 set to Auto. Well, one day I finally got an idle freeze. I mean, I was watching a YouTube video, the video ended, I had to go to the bathroom, so I got up and walked away. When I stood up, my system was already idling. When I got back, my system was locked up.

I disabled C3 and C6 and it's been fine ever since. Although, it was fine before that point too. Now, back then I didn't know about trying C3 and C6 at Enabled with LLC at High, but my system has been stable this way so I feel like I'd be wasting my time even though the process of tweaking some more would be fun.

Oh, and I don't have any SATA III drives. I also haven't done any Before & After testing to see if my drive performance was affected, but I also felt like testing wasn't worth my time since I felt like I had no choice but to disable C3 and C6.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15557157*
> Hey, you're discovering the same thing that others here have discovered and have even told me about: using High instead of Ultra High can sometimes mean that C3 and C6 can be enabled.
> 
> JJ at ASUS says that when using high multipliers of like 50x or higher, "HD" performance can suffer - especially SATA III - if C3 and C6 are disabled (he means "hard drive", but he's probably using this as a generic term for both hard drives and solid state drives). However, he doesn't say that it will definitely suffer, but just that it's possible. So, I'm not surprised that some people are having better results with C3 and C6 disabled because it almost sounds like it's a Your Mileage May Vary situation.
> 
> I'm using an Offset voltage and Ultra High, and a couple of months ago I had C3 and C6 set to Auto. Well, one day I finally got an idle freeze. I mean, I was watching a YouTube video, the video ended, I had to go to the bathroom, so I got up and walked away. When I stood up, my system was already idling. When I got back, my system was locked up.
> 
> I disabled C3 and C6 and it's been fine ever since. Although, it was fine before that point too. Now, back then I didn't know about trying C3 and C6 at Enabled with LLC at High, but my system has been stable this way so I feel like I'd be wasting my time even though the process of tweaking some more would be fun.
> 
> Oh, and I don't have any SATA III drives. I also haven't done any Before & After testing to see if my drive performance was affected, but I also felt like testing wasn't worth my time since I felt like I had no choice but to disable C3 and C6.


If I use High LLC and set C3 and C6 to Enabled, what do I get? I mean what is the purpose of C3 and C6 exactly?

When set to Auto, when does the system set it to Enabled and Disable?


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15554573*
> If you're talking about the top PCI-E x16 slot, no I don't think they will block it.


I am talking about the top PCI E X1 slot. Looking to fit an Essence STX there, but I am not sure if there is enough space left with a Cogage Arrow or Silver Arrow mounted.

In my current P67 Extreme 6 motherboard, the top PCI E X1 slot is blocked by my Cogage Arrow.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15557427*
> If I use High LLC and set C3 and C6 to Enabled, what do I get? I mean what is the purpose of C3 and C6 exactly?
> 
> When set to Auto, when does the system set it to Enabled and Disable?


When using an Offset voltage, having C3 and C6 set to Enabled results in a lower idle voltage than having them both Disabled. When using Auto, it's unpredictable (unless, of course, you're an Intel engineer or something).

Apparently, you can achieve a slightly higher idle voltage by using High instead of Ultra High. For some, this means that you can leave C3 and C6 enabled with no risk of idle freezes or BSODs while using an Offset voltage.

I have not tested this, so I'm still using Ultra High with both C3 and C6 disabled to avoid an idle freeze. Previously, I was using Auto.

Therefore, your mileage may vary. Experiment. Experimentation is always necessary.


----------



## SectorNine50

I'm personally using Regular LLC with C3 and C6 states enabled.

C3 and C6 are two different sleep states of the chip. You can basically call C3 the "deep sleep" state, and C6 the "deeper sleep" state.









(This isn't a SB chip, but it gives you an idea.)

Some info on C3:
Quote:


> C3 - Deep Sleep: Clock generator is off. The processor does not need to keep its cache coherent, but maintains other states. Some processors have variations of the C3 state (Deep Sleep, Deeper Sleep) that differ by how long it takes to wake the processor.


Quote:


> Deeper Sleep
> Works along with Intel® QuickStart Technology on Intel mobile processors. Deeper Sleep is a dynamic power management mode that delivers longer battery life. Deeper Sleep minimizes the power consumption of the CPU when it senses an extended period of inactivity by the user. It reduces power when idle and quickly restores the CPU to an active state as soon as the user resumes use of the system. It reduces processor voltage below the minimum operating voltage while preserving the processor state. Deeper Sleep is functionally identical to the Deep Sleep State but at a 66 percent lower voltage.


Source: http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-028739.htm

If you are having idle problems, C6 is probably the culprit as it is more aggressive in it's undervolting. However, as seen here, some people need both off. In theory, a lower LLC setting should bring up the idle voltage for the same load voltage, so that's another way as well (and is what I ended up doing).


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SectorNine50;15557746*
> I'm personally using Regular LLC with C3 and C6 states enabled.
> 
> C3 and C6 are two different sleep states of the chip. You can basically call C3 the "deep sleep" state, and C6 the "deeper sleep" state.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (This isn't a SB chip, but it gives you an idea.)
> 
> Some info on C3:
> 
> Source: http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-028739.htm
> 
> If you are having idle problems, C6 is probably the culprit as it is more aggressive in it's undervolting. However, as seen here, some people need both off. In theory, a lower LLC setting should bring up the idle voltage for the same load voltage, so that's another way as well (and is what I ended up doing).


I've been experimenting using High LLC instead of Ultra High LLC lately, in order to have C3/C6 enabled. So far so good.

BTW: We just passed 300 000 Views!


----------



## Jeffro422

Just grabbed an open box P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1 for $121 after promo code, can't wait to join the club!


----------



## Xyro TR1

Hah, I belong in this club now!

P8Z68 Deluxe
Pics


----------



## turrican9

Added *Altstadt* and *Xyro TR1* to the Club. Both are P8Z68 Deluxe Owners. Welcome!









*Altstadt's* system:










*Xyro TR1's* System:


----------



## chillidog

hi all
just want to say a big thanks for the info i got from this forum

i did some minor adjustments in the oc and now i can say am quite stable at 4.7 in which am quite happy with.no bsods what so ever since my last post
haven't been on for a while playing that game bf3 .if you play track us down

a big








to twocables &co


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chillidog*


hi all
just want to say a big thanks for the info i got from this forum

i did some minor adjustments in the oc and now i can say am quite stable at 4.7 in which am quite happy with.no bsods what so ever since my last post
haven't been on for a while playing that game bf3 .if you play track us down

a big








to twocables &co


Aw man, you're welcome.


----------



## Timotei

Thank you for the thorough reply, TwoCables (u got my first +rep).

About an hour ago I was writing a reply about my 5 hours and 30 minutes into Prime95 blend 4.5ghz at set Vcore at 1.335v with LLC Ultra High when I just got a BSOD 101. The others have only been 124, but both 124 and 101 means too low Vcore except that 124 can apply to qpi/vtt voltage too, right?

After this last BSOD I decided to go and build my house (e.g. my overclock) from the foundation and up instead of beginning at the second floor (my first manual attempt after Auto Tune got BSOD at 4.6ghz was to go for 4.7ghz







).

I started checking what the auto voltage values are when I set my BIOS back to the default settings, then I checked the values at 4.5ghz with all other settings on Auto. Considering those values and my earlier experimenting, the sweetspot for 4.5ghz on my chip seems to lie between 1.336v-1.344v. I decided to just go ahead and try to get my offset as close to this spot as possible. Now, with multiplier at 45, LLC High and Offset to -0.005, CPU-Z shows me this under load; 1.336v-1.344v







. Now it just remains to see wether this setting can survive a bit of idle time.

While I am typing this and watching CPU-Z, I am also discovering something quite interesting. Offset -0.005v actually seems to have a slightly higher idle Vcore than Offset +0.005v, contradicting what I have understood about Offset mode where the decrease in Vcore at "-" Offset should be parallell or close to parallell with the decrease you get under load while at "+" Offset the idle Vcore increases around 50% of the increase under load. This states that my -0.005 Offset should be around 0.0075v lower than my +0.005 Offset. Currently I am idling at 0.944v-1.064v and my +0.005 offset was idling at 0.856v-1.064v generally staying below 1.024v







. It might just be random as I did not monitor the +0.005 offset for more than 2 minutes, but if not...good for me. I will keep checking this out when I move back to 4.6ghz+ after this overclock have prooved itself stable at idle and in 12 hour Prime95 blend. I'll try to get a 4.8ghz stable overclock but then probably move back to this setting for daily use. This is fun!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timotei*


Thank you for the thorough reply, TwoCables (u got my first +rep).

About an hour ago I was writing a reply about my 5 hours and 30 minutes into Prime95 blend 4.5ghz at set Vcore at 1.335v with LLC Ultra High when I just got a BSOD 101. The others have only been 124, but both 124 and 101 means too low Vcore except that 124 can apply to qpi/vtt voltage too, right?


I'm still not sure, but I know others are more sure about these things, so I'm not worried.







We'll find out eventually.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timotei*


After this last BSOD I decided to go and build my house (e.g. my overclock) from the foundation and up instead of beginning at the second floor (my first manual attempt after Auto Tune got BSOD at 4.6ghz was to go for 4.7ghz







).

I started checking what the auto voltage values are when I set my BIOS back to the default settings, then I checked the values at 4.5ghz with all other settings on Auto. Considering those values and my earlier experimenting, the sweetspot for 4.5ghz on my chip seems to lie between 1.336v-1.344v. I decided to just go ahead and try to get my offset as close to this spot as possible. Now, with multiplier at 45, LLC High and Offset to -0.005, CPU-Z shows me this under load; 1.336v-1.344v







. Now it just remains to see wether this setting can survive a bit of idle time.

While I am typing this and watching CPU-Z, I am also discovering something quite interesting. Offset -0.005v actually seems to have a slightly higher idle Vcore than Offset +0.005v, contradicting what I have understood about Offset mode where the decrease in Vcore at "-" Offset should be parallell or close to parallell with the decrease you get under load while at "+" Offset the idle Vcore increases around 50% of the increase under load. This states that my -0.005 Offset should be around 0.0075v lower than my +0.005 Offset. Currently I am idling at 0.944v-1.064v and my +0.005 offset was idling at 0.856v-1.064v generally staying below 1.024v







. It might just be random as I did not monitor the +0.005 offset for more than 2 minutes, but if not...good for me. I will keep checking this out when I move back to 4.6ghz+ after this overclock have prooved itself stable at idle and in 12 hour Prime95 blend. I'll try to get a 4.8ghz stable overclock but then probably move back to this setting for daily use. This is fun!


Interesting findings!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


When using an Offset voltage, having C3 and C6 set to Enabled results in a lower idle voltage than having them both Disabled. When using Auto, it's unpredictable (unless, of course, you're an Intel engineer or something).

Apparently, you can achieve a slightly higher idle voltage by using High instead of Ultra High. For some, this means that you can leave C3 and C6 enabled with no risk of idle freezes or BSODs while using an Offset voltage.

I have not tested this, so I'm still using Ultra High with both C3 and C6 disabled to avoid an idle freeze. Previously, I was using Auto.

Therefore, your mileage may vary. Experiment. Experimentation is always necessary.


But the thing is, if I can get away with using High LLC and just increase Offset value in order to use C3 and C6, what advantage to I get with them?

I also understand why at idle with too low voltage, the system will usually hang? At idle, the clock speed of my CPU is 1600MHz and that can accommodate low voltage, right?

Why does a higher LLC produce lower idle voltage?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SectorNine50*


I'm personally using Regular LLC with C3 and C6 states enabled.

C3 and C6 are two different sleep states of the chip. You can basically call C3 the "deep sleep" state, and C6 the "deeper sleep" state.









(This isn't a SB chip, but it gives you an idea.)

Some info on C3:

Source: http://www.intel.com/support/process.../CS-028739.htm

If you are having idle problems, C6 is probably the culprit as it is more aggressive in it's undervolting. However, as seen here, some people need both off. In theory, a lower LLC setting should bring up the idle voltage for the same load voltage, so that's another way as well (and is what I ended up doing).


If we can get the same voltage (using Offset and adjusting accordingly) by using ANY level of LLC, what then is the advantage of LLC per se?


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


But the thing is, if I can get away with using High LLC and just increase Offset value in order to use C3 and C6, what advantage to I get with them?

I also understand why at idle with too low voltage, the system will usually hang? At idle, the clock speed of my CPU is 1600MHz and that can accommodate low voltage, right?

Why does a higher LLC produce lower idle voltage?

If we can get the same voltage (using Offset and adjusting accordingly) by using ANY level of LLC, what then is the advantage of LLC per se?


If you leave the voltage the same, and Raise LLC, the *load* voltage increases.

You can get the same load voltage with a higher vcore offset and a lower LLC setting. However, because the vcore offset is higher, your idle voltage is higher.

Think about it this way:
LLC affects the slope of the voltage graph based on load and vcore offset shifts the whole graph up or down.

LLC allows you to have a lower idle vcore with a higher load vcore, to the extent the chip allows it.


----------



## Timotei

There we go, image of my system. Didn't know how to put this in the join request message I sent, so here it is.


----------



## Rubble

Hey guys,
i have P8Z68-V PRO, you can kinda see from the pictures in this thread.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...00-rv02-e.html

I am having issues installing the software suite bundled with the motherboard, I've tried a fresh win7 install on a different hard drive with the downloaded software from asus.com and still the same problem. I've opened a ticket with asus and they told me that what I've tried is what they would have suggested. When i try running the install file windows prompts me for permission on an elevated action, after this it doesn't do anything. Have any of you had this problem, and if so what was the work around?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rubble*


Hey guys,
i have P8Z68-V PRO, you can kinda see from the pictures in this thread.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...00-rv02-e.html

I am having issues installing the software suite bundled with the motherboard, I've tried a fresh win7 install on a different hard drive with the downloaded software from asus.com and still the same problem. I've opened a ticket with asus and they told me that what I've tried is what they would have suggested. When i try running the install file windows prompts me for permission on an elevated action, after this it doesn't do anything. Have any of you had this problem, and if so what was the work around?


Tried turning off User Account Control?

Are you using any 3 party Antivirus/Firewall software? If so, try disabling it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timotei*


There we go, image of my system. Didn't know how to put this in the join request message I sent, so here it is.


Added! Welcome!







Also posted a link behind your nick in the members list, poiting to your post with your system pictures


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SectorNine50;15563984*
> If you leave the voltage the same, and Raise LLC, the *load* voltage increases.
> 
> You can get the same load voltage with a higher vcore offset and a lower LLC setting. However, because the vcore offset is higher, your idle voltage is higher.
> 
> Think about it this way:
> LLC affects the slope of the voltage graph based on load and vcore offset shifts the whole graph up or down.
> 
> LLC allows you to have a lower idle vcore with a higher load vcore, to the extent the chip allows it.


I actually understand what LLC does and what you said are all correct. So I just want to confirm this: LLC only affects the IDLE voltage because for ANY LLC level, you can have the same load voltage (by adjusting Offset value) but NEVER the same idle voltage. Is that correct analysis?


----------



## Timotei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rubble;15565741*
> Hey guys,
> i have P8Z68-V PRO, you can kinda see from the pictures in this thread.
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1155032-h100-rv02-e.html
> 
> I am having issues installing the software suite bundled with the motherboard, I've tried a fresh win7 install on a different hard drive with the downloaded software from asus.com and still the same problem. I've opened a ticket with asus and they told me that what I've tried is what they would have suggested. When i try running the install file windows prompts me for permission on an elevated action, after this it doesn't do anything. Have any of you had this problem, and if so what was the work around?


Hi, Rubble.
ASUS released a patch for previous issues with AI Suite II on the P67 motherboards. At first it didn't work for me, but when I copied the install files over to my primary drive the installer finally launched. This might or might not work for you as your problem is not identical to mine. And remember to launch as administrator.

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8P67&p=1&s=39&os=30&hashedid=Qx3PdnZI9Pq9BcIU


----------



## maxmekker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timotei;15564064*
> There we go, image of my system. Didn't know how to put this in the join request message I sent, so here it is.


seems like a nice clean build you got there.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15566508*
> I actually understand what LLC does and what you said are all correct. So I just want to confirm this: LLC only affects the IDLE voltage because for ANY LLC level, you can have the same load voltage (by adjusting Offset value) but NEVER the same idle voltage. Is that correct analysis?


yes that's correct.


----------



## chillidog

right my next step now is i am going to try 4.8 after my 4.7 oc been stable
so far i have tried 48 on 1.34,1.35,and now am trying 1.36v anything below this so far has failed prime on worker 1 within 4 mins. am 1hr into prime at the moment at 1.36v and so far ok. and temps are 61,63,67,63
but is 1.36v safe voltage for the average day use and game play?on an 2500k chip:headscrat:headscrat


----------



## RainMotorsports

Voltage safe hells yes. Been running myne [email protected] 24 hours a day at around 1.37 and 1.38 is regarded safe for those who would be caught trying to be safe.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwoCables*


When using an Offset voltage, having C3 and C6 set to Enabled results in a lower idle voltage than having them both Disabled. When using Auto, it's unpredictable (unless, of course, you're an Intel engineer or something).

Apparently, you can achieve a slightly higher idle voltage by using High instead of Ultra High. For some, this means that you can leave C3 and C6 enabled with no risk of idle freezes or BSODs while using an Offset voltage.

I have not tested this, so I'm still using Ultra High with both C3 and C6 disabled to avoid an idle freeze. Previously, I was using Auto.

Therefore, your mileage may vary. Experiment. Experimentation is always necessary.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*


yes that's correct.


How low of an IDLE voltage does 1600MHz need anyway? Or is it still different for any one system?


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15570191*
> How low of an IDLE voltage does 1600MHz need anyway? Or is it still different for any one system?


Seems to be different from system to system, based on what I've seen.


----------



## turrican9

I think 1600MHz needs a very low Vcore. Even lower than we see in every configuration. I think the problem is when it's ramping speed up and down, and the Vcore's in-between.


----------



## Timotei

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I think 1600MHz needs a very low Vcore. Even lower that we see in every configuration. I think the problem is when it's ramping speed up and down, and the Vcore's in-between.


That is the most logical explanation. All my BSODs have been 124 or 101. As far as I can tell they must be caused by idling as I have not messed with any voltages except Vcore. They seem quite random, but the ones that happened outside of Prime95 tests did all happen while I was doing some sort of light browsing/running spotify, skype etc. where there might have been spikes to 4.5ghz. The rest of the time my system seemed to be fine in the 0.8v region while not doing anything at all.


----------



## Rubble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


Tried turning off User Account Control?

Are you using any 3 party Antivirus/Firewall software? If so, try disabling it.


Haven't tried to disable user account control, I will as soon as i get home. I did have MSE, but when i did the re-install on a different hard drive i did not install MSE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timotei*


Hi, Rubble. 
ASUS released a patch for previous issues with AI Suite II on the P67 motherboards. At first it didn't work for me, but when I copied the install files over to my primary drive the installer finally launched. This might or might not work for you as your problem is not identical to mine. And remember to launch as administrator.

http://support.asus.com/download.asp...3PdnZI9Pq9BcIU


I will try this as well, thanks for your input, the monitoring suite i can live with out I use CPU-Z and their HW-Z (cant remember the name). To overclock i dont mind rebooting my system I have a fast second gen sandforce SSD. The one feature that I would like to see working is being able to look at my temps on my iphone, this way i dont have to worry about temps while gaming


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rubble*


Haven't tried to disable user account control, I will as soon as i get home. I did have MSE, but when i did the re-install on a different hard drive i did not install MSE


MSE should cause no trouble.

I'm getting drunk now. So do not count on more answers from me tonight


----------



## igloo

New asus p8z68-v/gen3 user here. Have a 2600k at 4.5g and test the stability now. Just want to say HI.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timotei*


That is the most logical explanation. All my BSODs have been 124 or 101. As far as I can tell they must be caused by idling as I have not messed with any voltages except Vcore. They seem quite random, but the ones that happened outside of Prime95 tests did all happen while I was doing some sort of light browsing/running spotify, skype etc. where there might have been spikes to 4.5ghz. The rest of the time my system seemed to be fine in the 0.8v region while not doing anything at all.


Certainly no expert here but I also had a problem with idle speed lock ups. Never a problem @ load. With help from a couple guys on OCN I was able to resolve the problem.

It came down to disabling the C3/C6 states and adjusting the offset and LLC to where I was able to pass prime 12 hrs and keep my lowest idle volts to about 1.00 volt. It occasionally drops to .992v but no further.

My offset is + 0.005 and my LLC is medium. Yours of course will vary but my 4.4 is now problem free.

Hope this helps someone


----------



## munaim1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


I'm getting drunk now. So do not count on more answers from me tonight


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


I actually understand what LLC does and what you said are all correct. So I just want to confirm this: LLC only affects the IDLE voltage because for ANY LLC level, you can have the same load voltage (by adjusting Offset value) but NEVER the same idle voltage. Is that correct analysis?


Different LLC values affect the full-load voltage which means that for each different LLC value, a different Offset or Manual voltage must be used to compensate (it doesn't matter if it's Offset or Manual).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*


How low of an IDLE voltage does 1600MHz need anyway? Or is it still different for any one system?


The reason why we get idle freezes and idle BSODs with an Offset voltage when C3 and C6 are disabled is that a small load on the CPU causes the clock speed to go all the way up (there is no in between like there is with the voltage), and so sometimes the voltage doesn't go up to a high-enough value to keep the full clock speed stable at a bigger overclock like mine.

So the reason why I got that one lock-up that I got was because when that YouTube video ended, my system went into a 100% idle state, but as it transitioned, the clock speed probably stayed at 100% while the voltage dropped too low thereby causing a lock-up. Disabling C3 and C6 would have prevented this, but I had it on Auto and I do not know what I was thinking.

So, it's not about how much voltage 1.6GHz needs. It's about preventing the voltage from going so low that it locks up or results in a BSOD due to the clock speed still being at 100%.


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*, I had a few things I wanted to post here. LLC and some other stuff... But I'm leaving it out right now, since I'm somewhat drunk


----------



## rp1

Hello All,

unfortunately - despite having tried and applied all 'fixes' - I can't get rid of the occasional dual boot issues. If internal PLC overvoltage is set to disabled, windows would not start, even BSOD from time to time on startup (altough the system is prime 95 blend stable, tried it for about 12 hours).

Also, if it doesn't double boot, sometimes it can take up to 30 seconds until the system gets to the very first post screen (large boot logo).

This is a fine board, but the issue is driving me nuts. I know this is not the best thread to ask this question, but can anybody possibly recommend me a board (maybe even of another brand) of similar capabilities and price-range like the *vanilla* p8p67?

I am seriously considering to RMA this one.

Thanks!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rp1*


Hello All,

unfortunately - despite having tried and applied all 'fixes' - I can't get rid of the occasional dual boot issues. If internal PLC overvoltage is set to disabled, windows would not start, even BSOD from time to time on startup (altough the system is prime 95 blend stable, tried it for about 12 hours).

Also, if it doesn't double boot, sometimes it can take up to 30 seconds until the system gets to the very first post screen (large boot logo).

This is a fine board, but the issue is driving me nuts. I know this is not the best thread to ask this question, but can anybody possibly recommend me a board (maybe even of another brand) of similar capabilities and price-range like the *vanilla* p8p67?

I am seriously considering to RMA this one.

Thanks!


When you say dual boot, do you mean it powers off and then powers back on?


----------



## chillidog

hi all just an update
so far prime for eight &half hours so far and no bsod
vcore is between 1.36/1.37 on cpu-z
temps have not gone above 68

finger cross


----------



## SectorNine50

Anyone know what the 3 pins are to the left of the 4 pin CPU header? Almost looks like another fan header, but I'm not sure.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SectorNine50*


Anyone know what the 3 pins are to the left of the 4 pin CPU header? Almost looks like another fan header, but I'm not sure.


I don't know what that's for, but it looks like it's nothing we need to worry about.


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15575513*
> I don't know what that's for, but it looks like it's nothing we need to worry about.


I was hoping that it might be another fan header, but it doesn't look like one. Would be nice to know though.


----------



## Kershek

Hi guys.

New P8P64 Pro and P8Z68-V Pro owner here. I just got a P8P64 Pro v3.0 board open box from Fry's for $166 - $10 MIR. I just found out there's a v3.1 version. What's the difference between the two? I can still return it if I need to.

Background/intro:
I got the P8P64 Pro as an upgrade to my main gaming machine which used to be an EVGA 680i with Q6600. The P8Z68-V Pro is for my Hyper-V server. I wanted to try the new RemoteFX with Sandy Bridge on the Hyper-V server. Unfortunately I couldn't get Intel's HD graphics drivers to install properly on Windows Server 2008 R2 so I now I have a GTX260 in there.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15572623*
> Different LLC values affect the full-load voltage which means that for each different LLC value, a different Offset or Manual voltage must be used to compensate (it doesn't matter if it's Offset or Manual).


But technically, for each LLC value you can get the same idle voltage by adjusting the Offset or Manual value. If that's the case what is the real purpose of LLC? I mean when you change the LLC, you just change another parameter (the VCore in this case) to have the same effect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15572623*
> The reason why we get idle freezes and idle BSODs with an Offset voltage when C3 and C6 are disabled is that a small load on the CPU causes the clock speed to go all the way up (there is no in between like there is with the voltage), and so sometimes the voltage doesn't go up to a high-enough value to keep the full clock speed stable at a bigger overclock like mine.
> 
> So the reason why I got that one lock-up that I got was because when that YouTube video ended, my system went into a 100% idle state, but as it transitioned, the clock speed probably stayed at 100% while the voltage dropped too low thereby causing a lock-up. Disabling C3 and C6 would have prevented this, but I had it on Auto and I do not know what I was thinking.
> 
> So, it's not about how much voltage 1.6GHz needs. It's about preventing the voltage from going so low that it locks up or results in a BSOD due to the clock speed still being at 100%.


Oh ok. And a small "enough" voltage can still run 100% clock speed for a split second without freezing up?


----------



## orlywutlol

I just realized theres a new bios out. Whats the verdict on the 2001 BIOS vs the 1850 beta?


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol;15576762*
> I just realized theres a new bios out. Whats the verdict on the 2001 BIOS vs the 1850 beta?


Isn't 2001 just 22nm support?


----------



## rp1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables;15573073*
> When you say dual boot, do you mean it powers off and then powers back on?


Exactly. And from time to time it takes very long for it to even get to the first bios screen.


----------



## Sharky[SVN]

happy new owner of P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 reporting in









i'm a little bit confused about all the overclocking options of this board

whats the best way to overclock CPU? Whats with the TPU switch, Ai overclock tuner, OC tuner, TurboV EVO auto tuning









can someone please briefly explain all this options to me


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sharky[SVN]*


happy new owner of P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 reporting in









i'm a little bit confused about all the overclocking options of this board

whats the best way to overclock CPU? Whats with the TPU switch, Ai overclock tuner, OC tuner, TurboV EVO auto tuning









can someone please briefly explain all this options to me


Best way is manually.

The TPU acts the same whether you use the physical switch or BIOS â€˜OC Tunerâ€™ utility

AI overclock tuner is auto overclocking

turbo V is in OS overclocking software


----------



## Sharky[SVN]

so do I disable TPU switch if overclocking manually?


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sharky[SVN]*


so do I disable TPU switch if overclocking manually?


Yup!


----------



## dujo11

Hi all.. i am proud owner of P8Z68-V Pro

But problems on start.. 4 days old MB and jack-sensing dunno works..
thy god for warranty :-D


----------



## Rubble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timotei*


Hi, Rubble. 
ASUS released a patch for previous issues with AI Suite II on the P67 motherboards. At first it didn't work for me, but when I copied the install files over to my primary drive the installer finally launched. This might or might not work for you as your problem is not identical to mine. And remember to launch as administrator.

http://support.asus.com/download.asp...3PdnZI9Pq9BcIU

I will try this as well, thanks for your input, the monitoring suite i can live with out I use CPU-Z and their HW-Z (cant remember the name). To overclock i dont mind rebooting my system I have a fast second gen sandforce SSD. The one feature that I would like to see working is being able to look at my temps on my iphone, this way i dont have to worry about temps while gaming


Well Timotei, I clicked on the link you provided me and was that it was for P8P67 boards. Right away i thought to myself that this isnt going to work, but i said "hell try it anyway, whats the worse thing that can happen?" So I downloaded the patch and installed it, Lo and behold it did not work, then i was a little sad and filled with dissapointment. Knowing that i was not going to be able to use this features.









I restarted Rubble Box and decided to run the install one last time, then out of nowhere it worked!









Thanks a lot Timotei!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rubble;15585434*
> Well Timotei, I clicked on the link you provided me and was that it was for P8P67 boards. Right away i thought to myself that this isnt going to work, but i said "hell try it anyway, whats the worse thing that can happen?" So I downloaded the patch and installed it, Lo and behold it did not work, then i was a little sad and filled with dissapointment. Knowing that i was not going to be able to use this features.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I restarted Rubble Box and decided to run the install one last time, then out of nowhere it worked!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot Timotei!


ASUS needs to provide better instructions and better understanding regarding this so-called "patch". You see, it's actually a tiny little program which requires a reboot in order for it to do what it does which is why rebooting worked.


----------



## alw71

Sorry to but in on any on going conversation but i thought this would be the best place on the forum to ask a question.
I've a p8z68 v pro and I'm a little concerned about it at the moment. I have an H100 as the cooler and have the fans attached to the pump rather than the board (is this a good idea) but recently on boot up it says cpu fan not found or running or something like that. This morning i tried to start it several times and it just wouldnt. I had a wiggle of the wire (the cpu wire that goes to the board at the top and started it and it worked. Maybee it is this but maybe it just decided to start again but it was ok last night when i switched it offand no one has moved it for it to have come loose. The connections felt fine even before wiggling it to see if it was loose. Maybee just coincidence. Do you think it could be a dodgy H100 or faulty board. I dont know how to go with this at all.
When i got it running i went into the bios and ( i couldnt make a screenshot sorry) and recorded these readings

CPU 98.6/37.0 MoBo 77.0/+25 and then cpu 1.208v 5v 5.08
3.3 3.76 12v 12.384v
These voltages i take are for the cores? Yes no? And temps for mobo and cpu.
I have it at stock and dont ooverclock yet but do these temperatures and voltages look ok for having just switched it on? It only took 5 minutes and the temps went up on cpu to 100.4/ 38 and on the mobo 78.8/ 26.0 deg.
I'd really appreciate any advice on this. Cheers.
Sorry for sloppy post.


----------



## turrican9

*TwoCables*

It seems my 2600K is very similar to your 2500K Vcore wise, when I disable HT. I get 4.8GHz at about ~1.384 - 1.408 (Mostly 1.400v) Vcore. Using High LLC instead of Ultra High. This way I can leave C3/C6 at Auto, since High LLC gives higher Idle Vcore VS Ultra High LLC. I just compensatet by typing in a higher Offset Value, to get about the same Load Vcore as Ultra High LLC gave me on a lower Offset.

It may be I have to increase my Vcore a little bit up. But looking promising so far.

There is a big difference in temps between HT-On and HT-Off.

I'm back to using my CM Hyper 212+ now. It has no trouble dealing with 4.8GHz and about ~1.4v Vcore as long as HT is Disabled. Seeing 77c for hottest Core when Prime95 Blend. Fan goes to about ~1700rpm max (Can go up to 1900rpm +). Using Standard Fan preset in bios.

another funny thing, that just proofs what has been said about CPU's that will reach high speeds on low Vcore's but they run hotter:

I built a MIVE Gene-Z/2500K setup for a friend of mine. It was also using the CM 212+. Only, his 2500K would do 12 hours + Blend stable at about ~1.37v Vcore. And as I've said, mine needs about ~1.4v Vcore when HT-Off. If I remember correctly I saw 82c + for hottest core on his CPU. A good deal hotter than mine. His was also configured with the Standard Fan preset. And I think I saw the fan up to 1700 - 1800rpm.


----------



## Sharky[SVN]

Joining the club, here's proof:

Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sharky[SVN]*


Joining the club, here's proof:

Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3




























Added! Welcome!


----------



## Xylian

A question about offset voltage.

I got my new P8Z68 Deluxe gen 3. I set the voltage to offset +0.040V and 4GHz, and when I booted up and looked at CPU-Z I could see the voltage was at 1.424V, which I assume is a bit too high for 4GHz









Any ideas as to why that is, or should I just stick to manual voltage?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xylian*


A question about offset voltage.

I got my new P8Z68 Deluxe gen 3. I set the voltage to offset +0.040V and 4GHz, and when I booted up and looked at CPU-Z I could see the voltage was at 1.424V, which I assume is a bit too high for 4GHz









Any ideas as to why that is, or should I just stick to manual voltage?


What LLC did you use? You know, when you type in Offset, it is the Voltage you add to the VID.

Example at 4.4GHz, your VID could be 1.3711. Then type in + 0.040, it would become about 1.4111v in Windows.

You have to experiment to find your sweet spot. You can also select negative Offset (-). Meaning if you had 1.3711v VID on a certain speed and typed in (-) negative Offset 0.040v, it would become about 1.3311v in Windows.

Please read the second post of this Club before asking these questions


----------



## Xylian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


What LLC did you use? You know, when you type in Offset, it is the Voltage you add to the VID.

Example at 4.4GHz, your VID could be 1.3711. Then type in + 0.040, it would become about 1.4111v in Windows.

You have to experiment to find your sweet spot. You can also select negative Offset (-). Meaning if you had 1.3711v VID on a certain speed and typed in (-) negative Offset 0.040v, it would become about 1.3311v in Windows.

Please read the second post of this Club before asking these questions










I wouldn't have asked if I hadn't read that post. Thanks for your answer though









How about this then?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xylian*


I wouldn't have asked if I hadn't read that post. Thanks for your answer though









How about this then?



















ASUS Ai Suite II is terrible for monitoring. It comes with all kinds of false alerts and stuff. I've uninstalled mine.

Instead use HWiNFO 32/64 for monitoring


----------



## Sharky[SVN]

whats your restart time? (use this script: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials...tart-time.html ) Mine is 34 seconds. I've disabled USB support, Marvell adapter, JMB storage controller, full screen logo and reduced time to 1s, disabled GUI boot in msconfig...and I think it's still a little bit slow, because I've read forums and some say they have reboot time under 25s

can anything else be disabled in BIOS for faster boot time?


----------



## owcraftsman

Other than minimizing startup items and tweaking windows for performance, Sure there is plenty you can change for starters anything set to auto like voltages and or memory timings, disable 1394 ports, set APM to PCIe if you have a sound card disable HD audio. If you have dual network ports disable one if not using the other, Disable fan speed control


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sharky[SVN]*


whats your restart time? (use this script: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials...tart-time.html ) Mine is 34 seconds. I've disabled USB support, Marvell adapter, JMB storage controller, full screen logo and reduced time to 1s, disabled GUI boot in msconfig...and I think it's still a little bit slow, because I've read forums and some say they have reboot time under 25s

can anything else be disabled in BIOS for faster boot time?


You're good, you can't get those times with this board, I get 34-35 sec as well.









Made another adjustment and I'm at 32-33sec now









And I have optimized the 5h!7 out of my OS and UEFI! LOL


----------



## pepejovi

Just ordered a P8Z68-V/GEN3 for 119,00â‚¬.

But I'm wondering, what is the difference between what i just ordered and the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3?

Also went for this memory: Hyper X Genesis 2x4GB, DDR3 1600MHz, CL9

I'll post proof for club membership once it gets here.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pepejovi*


Just ordered a P8Z68-V/GEN3 for 119,00€.

But I'm wondering, what is the difference between what i just ordered and the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3?

Also went for this memory: Hyper X Genesis 2x4GB, DDR3 1600MHz, CL9

I'll post proof for club membership once it gets here.


You can compare them by looking at their respective links in the top of the OP. Only a few differences. Like 2 more SATA ports on the PRO and some other small things.


----------



## pepejovi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


You can compare them by looking at their respective links in the top of the OP. Only a few differences. Like 2 more SATA ports on the PRO and some other small things.


The only main difference seems to be 2 more 6gb/s sata ports...


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SectorNine50*


Isn't 2001 just 22nm support?


From what I gather it seems that way. At least we can do a CPU swap later on down the road and still keep the mobo.


----------



## cabbie19

Hi all, looks like i'm all alone with the P8Z68V-lx board then








Here's a couple of system pic's although it is still under development so will have to update soon








Currently running at 4.7Ghz stable on prime95........


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cabbie19;15596378*
> Hi all, looks like i'm all alone with the P8Z68V-lx board then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of system pic's although it is still under development so will have to update soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently running at 4.7Ghz stable on prime95........


Nice, added a link to this post behind your nick in the members list









BTW: We can see you in the reflection from your front door in your case, in the lower picture. Did you notice that?


----------



## Bigchrome

I've seen this mentioned a few times throughout the thread but... is there any definitive fix to the following problem?

Have a 24hr stable oc. Turn the pc off and leave it for a while, takes two goes to boot and then when it does the bios has turned off pll overvolt and it won't make it into windows


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigchrome;15597362*
> I've seen this mentioned a few times throughout the thread but... is there any definitive fix to the following problem?
> 
> Have a 24hr stable oc. Turn the pc off and leave it for a while, takes two goes to boot and then when it does the bios has turned off pll overvolt and it won't make it into windows


Have you tried updating the BIOS or clearing the CMOS?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turrican9*


*TwoCables*

It seems my 2600K is very similar to your 2500K Vcore wise, when I disable HT. I get 4.8GHz at about ~1.384 - 1.408 (Mostly 1.400v) Vcore. Using High LLC instead of Ultra High. This way I can leave C3/C6 at Auto, since High LLC gives higher Idle Vcore VS Ultra High LLC. I just compensatet by typing in a higher Offset Value, to get about the same Load Vcore as Ultra High LLC gave me on a lower Offset.

It may be I have to increase my Vcore a little bit up. But looking promising so far.

There is a big difference in temps between HT-On and HT-Off.

I'm back to using my CM Hyper 212+ now. It has no trouble dealing with 4.8GHz and about ~1.4v Vcore as long as HT is Disabled. Seeing 77c for hottest Core when Prime95 Blend. Fan goes to about ~1700rpm max (Can go up to 1900rpm +). Using Standard Fan preset in bios.

another funny thing, that just proofs what has been said about CPU's that will reach high speeds on low Vcore's but they run hotter:

I built a MIVE Gene-Z/2500K setup for a friend of mine. It was also using the CM 212+. Only, his 2500K would do 12 hours + Blend stable at about ~1.37v Vcore. And as I've said, mine needs about ~1.4v Vcore when HT-Off. If I remember correctly I saw 82c + for hottest core on his CPU. A good deal hotter than mine. His was also configured with the Standard Fan preset. And I think I saw the fan up to 1700 - 1800rpm.


Whoa. I don't know what to say!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xylian*


A question about offset voltage.

I got my new P8Z68 Deluxe gen 3. I set the voltage to offset +0.040V and 4GHz, and when I booted up and looked at CPU-Z I could see the voltage was at 1.424V, which I assume is a bit too high for 4GHz









Any ideas as to why that is, or should I just stick to manual voltage?


To be very general, the Offset is calculated based on what your VID is combined with whichever LLC setting you are using (I recommend either Ultra High or High). The VID can be displayed by Real Temp when clicking this button:










Some people need to put load on their CPU in order to see their real VID, so if you have a VID that's way lower than mine (I mean like WAY lower), then run Prime95 or something.









However, it's best to use a Manual voltage first when overclocking. That way when you're "done" overclocking, you will know what core voltage you want to see in CPU-Z under full load. So what you do is you set your Offset in order to achieve that full load voltage that you found to be stable while using a Manual voltage.

So you could potentially end up using a negative Offset instead of a positive one. Experiment.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sharky[SVN]*


whats your restart time? (use this script: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials...tart-time.html ) Mine is 34 seconds. I've disabled USB support, Marvell adapter, JMB storage controller, full screen logo and reduced time to 1s, disabled GUI boot in msconfig...and I think it's still a little bit slow, because I've read forums and some say they have reboot time under 25s

can anything else be disabled in BIOS for faster boot time?


I love this little script. I've had it for about a year now.


















However, I am extremely anal retentive and OCD with my tweaking.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pepejovi*


The only main difference seems to be 2 more 6gb/s sata ports...


And the PRO has a USB 3.0 front panel bracket included.


----------



## Eaglake

haven't posted here a while.
I've got a problem. Yesterday I dropped my OC and put everything back on auto in BIOS.
So boots up everything is as it should, working, when I went to bed I put it in to sleep in the middle of night it somehow turned back on. tried to shutdown no response then I turned it off by 10 second power button thing. Today I turn it back on and it resumes from standby.
What is this and why?


----------



## psyside

Hey guys, what is the best BIOS for Z68 non gen3, Asus mobos? (Delux) thanks!


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15600489*
> And the PRO has a USB 3.0 front panel bracket included.


The PRO also has an Intel NIC.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SectorNine50*


The PRO also has an Intel NIC.


Well, I have the non-PRO and it has an Intel NIC also. So that doesn't make it as a "difference", I guess?


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;15612760*
> Well, I have the non-PRO and it has an Intel NIC also. So that doesn't make it as a "difference", I guess?


My mistake, didn't realize that the Z68 non-PRO boards had Intel NIC's as well. The non-PRO P67's have Realtek's.


----------



## JnLoader

Hello!

Just built my new comp and bought the P8Z68-V PRO Gen3 so add me to the list please








Feels really good to be back to Pc Gaming but need som help about setting up this mobo for the best but will look around here first before asking some questions









Take care!


----------



## pepejovi

What does the P8Z68-V GEN3 come with? As in accessories, How many SATA cables etc.?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pepejovi;15620144*
> What does the P8Z68-V GEN3 come with? As in accessories, How many SATA cables etc.?



User's manual
ASUS Q-Shield
2 x SATA 3Gb/s cable(s)
2 x SATA 6Gb/s cable(s)
1 x SLI bridge(s)
1 x Q-connector(s) (2 in 1)
SOURCE


----------



## pepejovi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *munaim1*



User's manual
ASUS Q-Shield
2 x SATA 3Gb/s cable(s)
2 x SATA 6Gb/s cable(s)
1 x SLI bridge(s)
1 x Q-connector(s) (2 in 1)
SOURCE











*swear word* (I already got a warning for swearing...) I need to start researching before instantly posting on OCN...

Thanks, repped.


----------



## Gadget_Guy

I guess you can now add me to the club!

Building a system now that features:

Asus P8z68-V Pro MB (Latest Bios)
4 X 4G Kingston KHX1600C9D3K2
2 X Gigabyte 560 Video Cards (SLI)
HAF 912 Case
Intel i7 2600k processor
OCZ ZX 850W Gold PSU
1TB WD Black HD
Kingston V100 SSD (64G) (flashed with latest firmware)
Corsair A70 CPU Heatsink

Using the SSD for Intel's Smart Response Technology.

Hopefully I will be able to afford a large SSD in the near future.

Just getting everything setup.

Going to run pretty much stock (No overclock).

I wouldn't mind getting some opinions on using the EPU and TPU switches.

Keeping in mind I am a newbie to overclocking and I want the machine to operate as stable as possible.

Thanks,

D.


----------



## brode09

New guy here. I just built a pc with the P8P67 LE mobo. I seem to have an issue with the x16 slot. It seems to just not work at all. The x4 slot works fine. Also, when I try to enter the bios, the cursor goes crazy and sticks to the top right of the screen. Again, I'm new here and I apologize if I posted this in the wrong area. Any help would really be appreciated.

Asus P8P67 LE
i5 2500k
Asus GTX 560
Seagate 6gb/s 500GB Hdd
(2x) 2gb Kingston HyperX DDR3 Ram










Edit: I did try updating Bios using a flash drive. It seemed to fix the crazy mouse issue until the next reboot.


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;15603569*
> haven't posted here a while.
> I've got a problem. Yesterday I dropped my OC and put everything back on auto in BIOS.
> So boots up everything is as it should, working, when I went to bed I put it in to sleep in the middle of night it somehow turned back on. tried to shutdown no response then I turned it off by 10 second power button thing. Today I turn it back on and it resumes from standby.
> What is this and why?


I had this happen a few months after every fresh install of Windows onto my old PC, so I disabled sleep permanently. Now on my x64 system, my PC won't even wake up after going to sleep. Stupid, huh?

EDIT: Flashing to a newer BIOS seems to have fixed the problem. The latest (902) however, reports CPU temps 10 degrees lower than they actually are in BIOS so you'll need to mess with the fan profiles in Fan X-pert to get your temps back to normal. The fix may have been introduced in an earlier version (706) and I don't think that version has the wrong temps bug so you could try that one instead.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> I had this happen a few months after every fresh install of Windows onto my old PC, so I disabled sleep permanently. Now on my x64 system, my PC won't even wake up after going to sleep. Stupid, huh?
> EDIT: Flashing to a newer BIOS seems to have fixed the problem. The latest (902) however, reports CPU temps 10 degrees lower than they actually are in BIOS so you'll need to mess with the fan profiles in Fan X-pert to get your temps back to normal. The fix may have been introduced in an earlier version (706) and I don't think that version has the wrong temps bug so you could try that one instead.


hmm a BIOS update? I'll try that thought I'm not sure if it'll work.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

I have a pretty basic question but it still eludes me ...

I am building a secondary sandy bridge setup just for lans and was wondering which would be better ...

P8z68-V Pro ... or the P8P67 Deluxe ...

All information would be greatly appreciated !! ...


----------



## keto

I think the only differences are dual LAN (Deluxe) and 2 more power phases (Deluxe). Unless you can use those features, go Pro. If you want something more portable, go GeneZ.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all ...
> I have a pretty basic question but it still eludes me ...
> I am building a secondary sandy bridge setup just for lans and was wondering which would be better ...
> P8z68-V Pro ... or the P8P67 Deluxe ...
> All information would be greatly appreciated !! ...


I have noticed that none of chipset Deluxe boards have iGPU ports
so Deluxe should have more back I/O ports such as USB and 2 LAN (intel and realtek)
if you don't need discrete graphics and have need for SSD caching then the Z68 is way to


----------



## HiLuckyB

Ok maybe you guys can help me out. Im looking at the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3, And I wanted to know if it can handle a i7 2600K overclocked as high as the chip will allow and 6990+6970 Trifire and a 9800GT for physx? Im just not sure if the motherboard is up to it. I know im going to be asking alot of the motherboard with everything I have









Thanks


----------



## MINE




----------



## KCOTT

Have an issue I'm trying to figure out.

I have the P8Z68-V PRO version of this board and I originally used the integrated graphics when I first built it until my GTX 460 came in. Then I uninstalled Intel's graphics drivers per the instructions of the new video card and have been using the nvidia driver/software since. I found my wife's old dell monitor that she doesn't use anymore so I wanted to set up a multiple monitor display. Since I only plan to use it for mainly as an equalizer/volume screen for my sound card, I wanted to run it off the VGA connection with the integrated graphics. I go to re-install the drivers but every time I get an error screen that says "This computer does not meet the minimum requirements for installing the software." I have the i7-2600k so I don't know what the deal is.

I know people are probably going to say why don't you just use the other DVI slot on the GTX 460 with a VGA converter, but for some reason when I do that with the other slot the screen is tinted green. I guess after some further research, it can only go analog on the first slot (which is already being used by my current screen).

Suggestions?


----------



## KCOTT

eh, I think I figured it out...just enabled iGPU in the bios


----------



## Tyreman

Just got the P8P67, i5 2500k, Ripjaws 1866's yesterday.
Hyper 212+(off my old '775)
Got sys up and running at 4005 for now and into about 10 hour of prime okay so far.
Its a nice bios:thumb:


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> I was wondering, in the ezbios thingy, choosing the predefined 3 modes, 'Silent', 'Optimal' and 'Performance', the same as it being default?
> Like i HAVE to choose one of the 3 options, then do my manual settings, or when i choose 'Load Default Settings' it totally bypasses the 3 options and uses my own/default settings.
> Its because the 'Optimal' Setting is MORE UNSTABLE than the 'Performance' setting (Black Ops hangs, speakers play a high voltage electricity sound), but the performance setting is stable but sometimes give me an 'Overclocking failed' message in BIOS.
> So what i did is load default settings, then i set the OC to Manual, leaving everything to AUTO but i changed the multiplier to 38x so that i would get 3.8ghz. Is this alright?


Guys!

I am getting this problem again. But this time, it happens when i am playing BF3 instead of Black Ops. It normally happens after i play for a few hours. The temps are all okay, always below 60'C on the stock cooler for the CPU and GFX .

The screen and PC basically hangs and there is a very loud "buzzing noise that sounds like high voltage electricity". The game sounds do not loop. Just this high frequency buzzing noise with the whole PC hanging. I just have to force restart and continue gaming as per normal.

In event viewer, i see Event 41, Kernal-Power. "The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly." Not really helpful, just telling me that there was a force restart.

Rig details are in my sig. Any ideas what could be wrong?


----------



## sniperslayer

regarding the bluetooth these motherboards have, is it possible to use a bluetooth car handsfree for use as a mic?

ie. using it over ventrillo for BF3, etc.?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniperslayer*
> 
> regarding the bluetooth these motherboards have, is it possible to use a bluetooth car handsfree for use as a mic?
> ie. using it over ventrillo for BF3, etc.?


I think you can, you just need to connect it.
At least I could stream music from PC to my phone, so I don't see problem.


----------



## Cuthroat12

Hello, I finished my build a while back but have been going back and forth about how to set up my hard drives etc. I think I must first note that I am a novice hardware enthusiast and can do quite a bit but I'm still a long ways away from being good at this. Originally I Installed an OCZ 60 GB SSD drive for my OS and 1 WD Black 1 TB (32 mb cache). I got sick of having to constantly move files around to keep storage open on the SSD and because my computer is built only for gaming (own an ASUS laptop for work), I deleted everything and started from scratch. This time I decided to go with 2 WD black 1 TB drives each set to RAID 0 and the SSD just as a drive for whatever game I was playing the most (when SSD drives evolve I will go for an OS drive but too annoying for me). I think I made the mistake of going the easy route though and I used Marvell's 3.0 6 GB/s SATA Navy Blue connectors and Drive Expert to set up the Raid 0, I hooked the SSD up to 1 of the 2 Intel 3.0 6 GB/s SATA mobo connectors to work as an independent drive. Works ok, I get decent read/write speeds but I just feel like I should have used Intel's 3 GB/s SATA connectors just because 1 WD Black 1 TB 7200 RPM HDD isn't going to exceed the 3 GB/s. I think my boot time is slow and I am also dealing with the famous post boot issue (I'm going to continue dealing with it now, until I have everything the way I want , then if it still exists I will worry about that issue). I wanted to disable Marvell's eSATA port as well and the two Marvell SATA 3.0 6 GB/s ports for now unless I need them in the future because I believe they slow down my boot time. This is a very small problem but is still bugging me. This may be a very stupid question but if I wanted to switch to the Intel ports and moved the SATA plugs from the Marvell STAT 3.0 6 GB/s NAVY BLUE connectors to the Intel 3 GB/s SATA connectors would I have to wipe the drives and re-install windows as well and mess with a bunch of RAID configurations?

In short, is it worth it? If I can do this I would be left with 2 Marvell 6 GB/s SATA ports for future use (disabled for now to boot faster) 1 Intel 6 GB/s SATA port for my docking bay on my tower, 1 Intel 6 GB/s SATA port for SSD drive, 2 Intel 3 GB/s SATA ports set up with the Raid 0, and 2 more Intel 3 GB/s ports for whatever (probably 1 DVD Writer and 1 spare). I will also disable Marvell's eSATA port because I don't use it and use a firewire port for WD 1 TB external used for backups (speed not too important but I do always strive for the best). I confused myself typing this, so any help is greatly appreciated. Below is my current build;

ASUS P8P67 DELUXE (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
PNY VCGGTX560TXPB GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K (currently clocked to 4.3 using x42 multiplier)
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9B
OCZ Solid 3 SLD3-25SAT3-60G 2.5" 60GB SATA III MLC (RUNNING GAMES)
(2) WD 7200 RPM 32 MB CACHE, this is set RAID 0 (MARVELL SATA 3.0 Ports 6 gb/s) for everything other than games
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply
Noctua NH-D14 120mm & 140mm SSO CPU Cooler


----------



## MercurySteam

Hey all, I discovered another issue with the 0902 BIOS version. Apart from the BIOS reading CPU temps 10 degrees lower than they actually are, sometimes when the PC shuts down, the active LEDs on the mobo (such as the TPU LED) and the light on my Razer Abysuss stay on. I know that this happens when I put the computer to sleep but it's annyoing when I shut the PC down and some lights stay on. Anyone else having this issue with 0902?


----------



## SectorNine50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> Hey all, I discovered another issue with the 0902 BIOS version. Apart from the BIOS reading CPU temps 10 degrees lower than they actually are, sometimes when the PC shuts down, the active LEDs on the mobo (such as the TPU LED) and the light on my Razer Abysuss stay on. I know that this happens when I put the computer to sleep but it's annyoing when I shut the PC down and some lights stay on. Anyone else having this issue with 0902?


Sounds like you have the USB charging feature enabled.


----------



## ltg2227

i didn't think about it at the time but when i got my P8Z68-V Pro board, the box wasn't sealed, like a piece of tape on one of the edges. Everything looks ok but just wondering if the board comes like this?


----------



## hmar

Well, I would refuse to accept it, the box need to be closed and sealed. Probably you got a repaired board, or one with a minor fault which could not be detected by a check, or a demonstration board.

hmar


----------



## hmar

Hi,

Where is everybody ? Since the new forum software is installed, this thread seemes to be nearly death...

hmar


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar*
> 
> Hi,
> Where is everybody ? Since the new forum software is installed, this thread seemes to be nearly death...
> hmar


i noticed that too...very low traffic in the last couple of days, all over the site.


----------



## Tyreman

Heres this one .....


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SectorNine50*
> 
> Sounds like you have the USB charging feature enabled.


Nope, AI Charger+ is disabled.


----------



## chillidog

yeah i have noticed as well since the forum upgrade to me it seems to gone down graded a bit,am a bit on the old fashion side why change things when
everything was ok before. too many adverts,the layout all seems to be all over the place.

what other place you talking about???


----------



## MINE

hey any different between ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 and the pro? Is this worth the extra 15-20$ or no? Also does this board use renesas usb controller ?


----------



## turrican9

This forum is a total mess now, in my opinion. that is one of the reasons I've not been very active here lately.

I simply do not like what I'm seeing here, and I've lost interest for the forum after the 'upgrade'. I 'struggle' just to write this, without getting 'sick'.

This is a total failure... Sorry OCN...


----------



## turrican9

I edited the first post to state that I'm not staying here... The fonts looked like **** after the edit. This place is dead for me..


----------



## MINE

Also do anyone know if the P8Z68-V GEN3 usb is on the north or southbridge ? random question


----------



## turrican9

What a ******* mess.. I'm lost for words... Destroying a great forum like the OCN by implementing this ****...


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> I edited the first post to state that I'm not staying here... The fonts looked like **** after the edit. This place is dead for me..


I can't say much for the "new" upgrade either. If it ain't broke...don't fix it !!


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> *james_k_p*
> 
> Now try lowering Vcore at 4.5GHz. Try Offset = - (Minus) 0.040. Run Prime95 again.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> *Juuhuuu!! I got post number 4000!!*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chewy*
> 
> Nice overclock, although i am suprised at your temps with a nh-d14


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Before you do a overnight run, try running Blend Custom. Type in 1792KB and 1792KB. Let it run for at least 15 minutes. Then you have a somewhat indication that your overclock is reasonable stable.
> Then you start the normal Blend test.
> Reason? To save alot of time. I've found that the 1344KB and 1792KB FFT's are the most demanding FFT's, most likely to fail with Sandy. However, these FFT's are hours out in the test. That is why it is smart to run them before the regular Blend preset. 1792FFT is the most demanding of the two.
> Edit: If it crashes, then up Vcore, try - 0.030 or - 0.020. If it goes through, you could try to lower it even more: - 0.060 or something. You catch my drift?


Hi Guys, I'm back after being away for a while. These quotes are from page 400-402 of when I was here asking for help. I kept having BSODs and you were helping me go through it all to figure out what was up.
In the end, it WAS the OCZ ssd I had that caused the BSOD eratically. They eventually fixed the bug that was in the sandstorm or whatever it's called controller's firmware and released a firmware update with the fix and I have not BSOD'ed since I'm happy to report.

So now I'm finally getting back into trying to OC it properly. I set all the bios settings back to the "template" that turrican told me about which didn't crash when I attempted these a while back, so I immediately went back to what he said above about running a custom blend with 1792 in both spots, also with - 0.040 for 15 minutes and have not BSOD'ed.

What do I need to change to push it up to 4.8ghz? Here is the screen shot of it going with the custom blend as I type this:



Thanks for the help!


----------



## james_k_p

Well I read twocables template on the first page and although with + 0.040 with a 48 by all cores, it worked and didn't lock up with a custom prime blend using 1792, It did bsod if I put the offset to -.

The voltage in cpu-z goes from 1.408 - 1.416. I'm guessing this is not good as it should be under 1.4 correct?

I went a changed the by all cores to 47 and it's getting the same voltages.

They stayed in the mid 1.350ish range with a I had it at 45.

Can I just leave it be or do I need to tweak something to get the voltage down a little? Thanks!


----------



## EventHorizon

Um, does the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.0 support wireless internet?

Mine can't detect networks anything but my laptop in the same room can.

I dled drivers from here:http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8P67&p=1&s=39&os=30&hashedid=Qx3PdnZI9Pq9BcIU


----------



## M3L4S

my 24/7 Setup for the 2500k @ offset - 0.050



cooled with the Noctua NH-D14


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EventHorizon*
> 
> Um, does the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.0 support wireless internet?
> Mine can't detect networks anything but my laptop in the same room can.
> I dled drivers from here:http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8P67&p=1&s=39&os=30&hashedid=Qx3PdnZI9Pq9BcIU


Lol. Do you know that your board doesn't have a wireless ethernet card by default?


----------



## dujo11

OK.. after 1 week new mobo arrived from service center... everything works fine...
But the thing is i get tems in load up to 96C , using stock cooler.. Any ideas?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dujo11*
> 
> OK.. after 1 week new mobo arrived from service center... everything works fine...
> But the thing is i get tems in load up to 96C , using stock cooler.. Any ideas?


Sounds like the cooler might of come lose, You should check it out because 96c can start to hurt the cpu if you run it to long at that tamp. Also what are you using to check the temps?


----------



## Jeffro422

Just wanted to come join the club!!



Got it open box from Newegg for $122
2600k is at 4.8 at 1.37v so far with ease


----------



## Erper

nice...


----------



## AlanR

Hi

Does the P8P67 Pro 3.1 board support PCI-Express 3.0? I know the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 and Maximus IV GENE-Z/GEN3 do but the following link seems to suggest the the P8P67 does also ... http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/PCIe3_Ready.

Thanks

Alan


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dujo11*
> 
> OK.. after 1 week new mobo arrived from service center... everything works fine...
> But the thing is i get tems in load up to 96C , using stock cooler.. Any ideas?


This happened to me when I removed my cooler and didn't reapply thermal grease when I reinstalled it. Either your cooler is faulty or your thermal application needs to be re-done.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dujo11*
> 
> OK.. after 1 week new mobo arrived from service center... everything works fine...
> But the thing is i get tems in load up to 96C , using stock cooler.. Any ideas?


Yep sounds like the cooler is loose. That is if you are not overclocking and at stock speeds that temp is way to high. However the proc has built in protection and it will start throttling down at about 98c. This is not full proof so you must be vigilant watching those temps. Most folks like to keep there Proc below 40c idle and no more than 85c 100% load with any given Overclock. It is somewhat determined by ambient temps but at stock speeds 25-38c idle 75-86c at 100% load with that stock cooler. If you are overclocking an Aftermarket cooler is an absolute must. Consider a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for a budget friendly solution and if money is no object consider a Thermalright Silver Arrow


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_k_p*
> 
> Well I read twocables template on the first page and although with + 0.040 with a 48 by all cores, it worked and didn't lock up with a custom prime blend using 1792, It did bsod if I put the offset to -.
> 
> The voltage in cpu-z goes from 1.408 - 1.416. I'm guessing this is not good as it should be under 1.4 correct?
> 
> I went a changed the by all cores to 47 and it's getting the same voltages.
> 
> They stayed in the mid 1.350ish range with a I had it at 45.
> 
> Can I just leave it be or do I need to tweak something to get the voltage down a little? Thanks!


1.4+ is to high for 4.7,4.8

for me i only use the xmp profile for my set up for 4.7 am geting 1.35/1.36v .
at 4.8 all i had to do is up the voltage manually to 1.38 and cpu-z shows 1.36-1.39.and my temps don't go above 69 on any cores.i found out if i need to up the ratio i had to up the voltage by 2v
i did hit the 5.0 but the voltage change means i had to pump the voltage to 1.42-1.43 and prime stable for 8 hrs.but to me i think 1.42/1.43 might be on the high side.but the temps are all well below 70

i have noticed that you got 16 gig of memory is their any reason for this? i had 16 gig i down graded to 8 gig becouse at first i had a lot of bsod's untill i went to 8 gig my oc went much better and temps well inproved.

any way am at 4.9 now with 1.38v and 24/7 stable for over 2 months now and the temps @ max and don't go over 69
i really think this is all down to using the xmp memory profile
i would check to see if your memory supports the xmp and am quite sure you will hit 5.0 easy with the 2600k chip and much better voltage:thumb:


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> This forum is a total mess now, in my opinion. that is one of the reasons I've not been very active here lately.
> I simply do not like what I'm seeing here, and I've lost interest for the forum after the 'upgrade'. I 'struggle' just to write this, without getting 'sick'.
> This is a total failure... Sorry OCN...


for any help to you turrican9 and to others who thinks the same i have pm ocn with my concerns about this new upgade lark.
i have viewed my concerns and mentioned that they have lost some top posters like your self & twocables and co leaving alot of newbies like myself who needed help and without your section i would'nt be where i am now with my oc.

am a bit on the old fashion side don't change things when running great in the first time.
personally i think this sad they have done this but it needs more to complain and voice their concerns about this forum set up now


----------



## owcraftsman

If they want to bow out just do it but don't blame the upgraded forum. They are doing what the have to to survive and continue at a high level. Sure it will take some getting used to and a few tweaks here and there but to run away crying like a baby seem a bit melodramatic.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Looks like ill be joining the club soon. I just order a P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 from amazon. Now I just need to make up my mind if I want to get a 2700K or just get a 2600K


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> Looks like ill be joining the club soon. I just order a P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 from amazon. Now I just need to make up my mind if I want to get a 2700K or just get a 2600K


If you don't care about Hyperthreading (which most of us don't), you should go for the best bang-for-the-buck i5-2500K and spend the extra money somewhere else







Just IMO, of course.


----------



## james_k_p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> 1.4+ is to high for 4.7,4.8
> for me i only use the xmp profile for my set up for 4.7 am geting 1.35/1.36v .
> at 4.8 all i had to do is up the voltage manually to 1.38 and cpu-z shows 1.36-1.39.and my temps don't go above 69 on any cores.i found out if i need to up the ratio i had to up the voltage by 2v
> i did hit the 5.0 but the voltage change means i had to pump the voltage to 1.42-1.43 and prime stable for 8 hrs.but to me i think 1.42/1.43 might be on the high side.but the temps are all well below 70
> i have noticed that you got 16 gig of memory is their any reason for this? i had 16 gig i down graded to 8 gig becouse at first i had a lot of bsod's untill i went to 8 gig my oc went much better and temps well inproved.
> any way am at 4.9 now with 1.38v and 24/7 stable for over 2 months now and the temps @ max and don't go over 69
> i really think this is all down to using the xmp memory profile
> i would check to see if your memory supports the xmp and am quite sure you will hit 5.0 easy with the 2600k chip and much better voltage:thumb:


Thanks for the response. I'm actually using the XMP profile now as I switched out the older regular Ripjaws from GSkill with what they recommended, the Ripjaw X's that is now updated in my profile. Per their instructions, I could and should use XMP, so that part is different from Twocable's settings. And with this, I was getting those voltages. I lowered it back down to 45 for now.

So you're saying I should try it with a manual voltage of 1.38 and forgo the offset? And see where that gets me?

Well, I'm pretty much using this machine only for video capping/encoding and things of that nature, and being RAM is so cheap now, I got the 16gbs. Matter of fact, the Ripjaw X kit I have now comes in a 16gb pack.
I had no idea that more RAM impacted temps.

In closing, you are currently using yours with the voltage manually set to 1.38? I may do that when I have more time this weekend and run more tests. Thanks!


----------



## EventHorizon

I can't get my mouse to work in my P8P67 UEFI. It's a G500 and I have the latest drivers (setpoint) installed.

Also, how can I control my 3 pin fans that are plugged into the mobo? Is there software I can use to do this?

One of my fans, (I think my coolit eco) is ******edly loud especially under "load" (never really exceed 60% CPU usage ATM). My define R3 is supposed to be quiet!


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If you don't care about Hyperthreading (which most of us don't), you should go for the best bang-for-the-buck i5-2500K and spend the extra money somewhere else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just IMO, of course.


I do some video editing thats why im going with the i7







Im coming from a i7 875K @4.329GHz, So a i5 seems like I would be going the wrong way in my mind







I sold my 875K and MB to my brother Because he needed an upgrade, And I was board with that setup anyways


----------



## spritepr

Hey guys its been a while since I last posted here but I want to OC my SB finally and was wondering if anyone has had good results with ASUS extreme setting in the UEFI or its auto overclock features in the AI suite software. I've read mixed opinions on both while looking for info so I'm not really sure if I should do a manual OC or just use one of these alternatives. I am looking to hit around 4.5 Ghz if possible on my Hyper 212+ or something around that area since I want a 24/7 stable OC for gaming/browsing etc.


----------



## chillidog

JAMES_K_P

QUOTED: Thanks for the response. I'm actually using the XMP profile now as I switched out the older regular Ripjaws from GSkill with what they recommended, the Ripjaw X's that is now updated in my profile. Per their instructions, I could and should use XMP, so that part is different from Twocable's settings. And with this, I was getting those voltages. I lowered it back down to 45 for now.

So you're saying I should try it with a manual voltage of 1.38 and forgo the offset? And see where that gets me?

Well, I'm pretty much using this machine only for video capping/encoding and things of that nature, and being RAM is so cheap now, I got the 16gbs. Matter of fact, the Ripjaw X kit I have now comes in a 16gb pack.
I had no idea that more RAM impacted temps.

In closing, you are currently using yours with the voltage manually set to 1.38? I may do that when I have more time this weekend and run more tests. Thanks!

you are welcome

this is my settings,the only difference you would see is the memory trimmings,and memory voltage in which xmp profile will auto change
I WOULD FOR GET THE OFF SET AND JUST GO WITH MANUAL VOLTAGE,START LOW AND WORK UP UNTILL STABLE
SINCE I WENT THE XMP WAY THE TEMPS ARE WELL LOW.WHEN I WENT 5.0 @1.42V TEMPS AT MAX REACHED 70 ONLY ON TWO CORE'S AND 68 ON THE OTHER CORES

ANYWAY THESE ARE MY SETTINGS AT THE MO AND 24/7 STABLE

AI TWEAKER

ai overclock tuner set at =xmp
xmp ddr3-1600 (your trimmings will be diff to mine) =9-9-9-24-2n=1.50v profile 1
bclk/pcie freq =100.0
turbo ratio =by all cores
by all cores (can adjust in os) AM SET AT 49 WHICH GIVES ME 4.9 O/C,(YOU MIGHT WANT TO START LOW SAY 4.6 OR 4.7 THEN WORK UP SLOWLY

INTERNAL PLL OVERVOLTAGE =ENABLED
MEMORY FREQ =DDR3-1600 MHZ (YOUR MIGHT BE DIFF)
EPU POWER SAVING MODE = DISABLED

CPU POWER MANAGEMENT

CPU RATIO =AUTO
ENCHANCED INTEL SPEEDSTEP TECH =ENABLED
TURBO MODE =ENABLED
EVERYTHING ELSE IN THIS SECTION ARE ON AUTO

DIGI + VRM

LOAD-LINE CALIBRATION =EXTREME
VRM FREQ= AUTO
PHASE CONTROL =EXTREME
DUTY CONTROL =EXTREME
CPU CURRENT CAPABILITY SET AT 120% THIS IS WHAT MY SETING IS AT (YOU MIGHT NEED TO EXPERIMENT WITH THIS IF YOU CAN'T GET PRIME STABLE) BUT JUST RISE UP A LEVEL

CPU VOLTAGE = MANUAL MODE
CPU MANUAL VOLTAGE (THIS IS WHERE YOU EXPERIMENT COMES IN) AM SET AT 1.340V , BUT THIS DEPENDS ON WHERE YOU ARE STARTING OFF FROM .SO LETS SAY YOU GOING FOR 4.7 I WOULD ENTER 1.335V AND PRIME 95 IF YOU GET BSOD'S RISE IT TO 1.340V RISE IT IN 0.5 UNTILL PRIME IS STABLE.

DRAM VOLTAGE = THIS IS AUTO CHANGED WHEN IN XMP MODE MINE IS ON 1.60000
VCCIO VOLTAGE = AUTO
CPU PLL VOLTAGE =AUTO
PCH VOLTAGE =AUTO
DRAM DATA REF VOLTAGE CHA =AUTO
DRAM CTRL REF VOLTAGE CHA =AUTO
DRAM DATA REF VOLTAGE CHB =AUTO
DRAM DATA REF VOLTAGE CHB =AUTO
CPU SPREAD SPECTRUM = DISABLED

ADVANCED SECTION

CPU CONFIG
CPU RATIO =AUTO
INTEL ADAPTIVE THERMAL MONITOR =DISABLED
ACTIVE PROCESSOR CORES = ALL
LIMIT CPUID MAXIMUM =DISABLED
EXECUTE DISABLE BIT= ENABLED
INTEL VIRTUALIZATION TECH = DISABLED
ENCHANCED INTEL SPEEDSTEP TECH =ENABLED
TURBO MODE=ENABLED

CPU C1E = DISABLED
CPU C3 REPORT = DISABLED
CPU C6 REPORT = DISABLED

HIT F10 SAVE AND EXIT

ONCE YOU GET A STABLE OC THEN GO BACK AND REDUCE THE VOLTAGE BY 0.5
UNTILL YOU GET A BSOD AND THEN RISE IT UP AGAIN.

I HOPE THIS WILL GIVE YOU SOME IDEA'S


----------



## chillidog

JAMES_K_P

QUOTED: Thanks for the response. I'm actually using the XMP profile now as I switched out the older regular Ripjaws from GSkill with what they recommended, the Ripjaw X's that is now updated in my profile. Per their instructions, I could and should use XMP, so that part is different from Twocable's settings. And with this, I was getting those voltages. I lowered it back down to 45 for now.

So you're saying I should try it with a manual voltage of 1.38 and forgo the offset? And see where that gets me?

Well, I'm pretty much using this machine only for video capping/encoding and things of that nature, and being RAM is so cheap now, I got the 16gbs. Matter of fact, the Ripjaw X kit I have now comes in a 16gb pack.
I had no idea that more RAM impacted temps.

In closing, you are currently using yours with the voltage manually set to 1.38? I may do that when I have more time this weekend and run more tests. Thanks!

you are welcome

this is my settings,the only difference you would see is the memory trimmings,and memory voltage in which xmp profile will auto change
I WOULD FOR GET THE OFF SET AND JUST GO WITH MANUAL VOLTAGE,START LOW AND WORK UP UNTILL STABLE
SINCE I WENT THE XMP WAY THE TEMPS ARE WELL LOW.WHEN I WENT 5.0 @1.42V TEMPS AT MAX REACHED 70 ONLY ON TWO CORE'S AND 68 ON THE OTHER CORES( ALSO I DON'T USE THE AI SUITE UNISTALL IT)

ANYWAY THESE ARE MY SETTINGS AT THE MO AND 24/7 STABLE

AI TWEAKER

ai overclock tuner set at =xmp
xmp ddr3-1600 (your trimmings will be diff to mine) =9-9-9-24-2n=1.50v profile 1
bclk/pcie freq =100.0
turbo ratio =by all cores
by all cores (can adjust in os) AM SET AT 49 WHICH GIVES ME 4.9 O/C,(YOU MIGHT WANT TO START LOW SAY 4.6 OR 4.7 THEN WORK UP SLOWLY

INTERNAL PLL OVERVOLTAGE =ENABLED
MEMORY FREQ =DDR3-1600 MHZ (YOUR MIGHT BE DIFF)
EPU POWER SAVING MODE = DISABLED

CPU POWER MANAGEMENT

CPU RATIO =AUTO
ENCHANCED INTEL SPEEDSTEP TECH =ENABLED
TURBO MODE =ENABLED
EVERYTHING ELSE IN THIS SECTION ARE ON AUTO

DIGI + VRM

LOAD-LINE CALIBRATION =EXTREME
VRM FREQ= AUTO
PHASE CONTROL =EXTREME
DUTY CONTROL =EXTREME
CPU CURRENT CAPABILITY SET AT 120% THIS IS WHAT MY SETING IS AT (YOU MIGHT NEED TO EXPERIMENT WITH THIS IF YOU CAN'T GET PRIME STABLE) BUT JUST RISE UP A LEVEL

CPU VOLTAGE = MANUAL MODE
CPU MANUAL VOLTAGE (THIS IS WHERE YOU EXPERIMENT COMES IN) AM SET AT 1.340V , BUT THIS DEPENDS ON WHERE YOU ARE STARTING OFF FROM .SO LETS SAY YOU GOING FOR 4.7 I WOULD ENTER 1.335V AND PRIME 95 IF YOU GET BSOD'S RISE IT TO 1.340V RISE IT IN 0.5 UNTILL PRIME IS STABLE.

DRAM VOLTAGE = THIS IS AUTO CHANGED WHEN IN XMP MODE MINE IS ON 1.60000
VCCIO VOLTAGE = AUTO
CPU PLL VOLTAGE =AUTO
PCH VOLTAGE =AUTO
DRAM DATA REF VOLTAGE CHA =AUTO
DRAM CTRL REF VOLTAGE CHA =AUTO
DRAM DATA REF VOLTAGE CHB =AUTO
DRAM DATA REF VOLTAGE CHB =AUTO
CPU SPREAD SPECTRUM = DISABLED

ADVANCED SECTION

CPU CONFIG
CPU RATIO =AUTO
INTEL ADAPTIVE THERMAL MONITOR =DISABLED
ACTIVE PROCESSOR CORES = ALL
LIMIT CPUID MAXIMUM =DISABLED
EXECUTE DISABLE BIT= ENABLED
INTEL VIRTUALIZATION TECH = DISABLED
ENCHANCED INTEL SPEEDSTEP TECH =ENABLED
TURBO MODE=ENABLED

CPU C1E = DISABLED
CPU C3 REPORT = DISABLED
CPU C6 REPORT = DISABLED

HIT F10 SAVE AND EXIT

ONCE YOU GET A STABLE OC THEN GO BACK AND REDUCE THE VOLTAGE BY 0.5
UNTILL YOU GET A BSOD AND THEN RISE IT UP AGAIN.

I HOPE THIS WILL GIVE YOU SOME IDEA'S


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> I do some video editing thats why im going with the i7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im coming from a i7 875K @4.329GHz, So a i5 seems like I would be going the wrong way in my mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sold my 875K and MB to my brother Because he needed an upgrade, And I was board with that setup anyways


Oh ok, goodluck then


----------



## Mercyflush64

We have an xbox in our house with a couple of wireless controllers and I'm about to get this M/B at the beginning of the month. I am curious if the bluetooth receiver will connect to an xbox 360 controller or will I have to buy another wireless controller made for windows?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> We have an xbox in our house with a couple of wireless controllers and I'm about to get this M/B at the beginning of the month. I am curious if the bluetooth receiver will connect to an xbox 360 controller or will I have to buy another wireless controller made for windows?


Xbox controllers are not bluetooth, That's the PS3's controller's that are bluetooth.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> Xbox controllers are not bluetooth, That's the PS3's controller's that are bluetooth.


Awww poop, was trynig to save a buck


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Awww poop, was trynig to save a buck


xbox 360 controllers are RF, lol.


----------



## dujo11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yep sounds like the cooler is loose. That is if you are not overclocking and at stock speeds that temp is way to high. However the proc has built in protection and it will start throttling down at about 98c. This is not full proof so you must be vigilant watching those temps. Most folks like to keep there Proc below 40c idle and no more than 85c 100% load with any given Overclock. It is somewhat determined by ambient temps but at stock speeds 25-38c idle 75-86c at 100% load with that stock cooler. If you are overclocking an Aftermarket cooler is an absolute must. Consider a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for a budget friendly solution and if money is no object consider a Thermalright Silver Arrow


i have removed cooler 3 times and every time changed grease..
Utilites used is Asus Suite and Core Temp....

Btw.. temp in idle 30C..
When i run Prime95 x64 Temp goes to 85C in 1 sec... 30 sec to 95.. didnt want to go higher..

Upgrading to latest BIOS. Give some results Core temp and Real temp stays at 88C for 15 min.. didnt waited longers... Asus utility says 85C..

So looks i'll need some good CPU cooler.. Any advice..
BTW i am using Corsair ram modules Venegance. they are a bit higher..

Does this one works fine SCYTHE Mugen3 SCMG-3000..
Or u guys reccomend something else in that price.. That one is arround 60$ here.. thats highest i'll go for cooler

Thx


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dujo11*
> 
> i have removed cooler 3 times and every time changed grease..
> Utilites used is Asus Suite and Core Temp....
> Btw.. temp in idle 30C..
> When i run Prime95 x64 Temp goes to 85C in 1 sec... 30 sec to 95.. didnt want to go higher..
> Upgrading to latest BIOS. Give some results Core temp and Real temp stays at 88C for 15 min.. didnt waited longers... Asus utility says 85C..
> So looks i'll need some good CPU cooler.. Any advice..
> BTW i am using Corsair ram modules Venegance. they are a bit higher..
> Does this one works fine SCYTHE Mugen3 SCMG-3000..
> Or u guys reccomend something else in that price.. That one is arround 60$ here.. thats highest i'll go for cooler
> Thx


If you have the CPU fan set to default it runs at a low RPM when underclocked to save power and takes time to ramp up during a load so the voltage spike is common but the stock cooler can't handle most overclocks over 4.5 without fail. I disable this auto fan profile in bios so it runs at 100% all the time which is helpful especially with the stock cooler. As I mentioned above an aftermarket cooler is highly recommended and I also linked to two coolers. (Cooler Master Hyper 212+ & Thermalright Silver Arrow ) either will work fine with you Vengance Memory & Board. That said even the Scythe would be a better option cooling but I'm not clear about clearance I look to their support pages to get your answer. . I would avoid and recommend not using the AI Suite to many bugs and an unreliable way to make changes to the bios. I use the manual settings in the bios and suggest you do the same. Use Core Temp, Real Temp or what I use (paid ver.) Aida 64 Extreme for your monitoring of the system.

edit: Also looking at you case I'm not sure it provides adequate ventilation and you might consider a more thermal efficient case.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> I was wondering, in the ezbios thingy, choosing the predefined 3 modes, 'Silent', 'Optimal' and 'Performance', the same as it being default?
> Like i HAVE to choose one of the 3 options, then do my manual settings, or when i choose 'Load Default Settings' it totally bypasses the 3 options and uses my own/default settings.
> Its because the 'Optimal' Setting is MORE UNSTABLE than the 'Performance' setting (Black Ops hangs, speakers play a high voltage electricity sound), but the performance setting is stable but sometimes give me an 'Overclocking failed' message in BIOS.
> So what i did is load default settings, then i set the OC to Manual, leaving everything to AUTO but i changed the multiplier to 38x so that i would get 3.8ghz. Is this alright?
> 
> 
> 
> Guys!
> 
> I am getting this problem again. But this time, it happens when i am playing BF3 instead of Black Ops. It normally happens after i play for a few hours. The temps are all okay, always below 60'C on the stock cooler for the CPU and GFX .
> 
> The screen and PC basically hangs and there is a very loud "buzzing noise that sounds like high voltage electricity". The game sounds do not loop. Just this high frequency buzzing noise with the whole PC hanging. I just have to force restart and continue gaming as per normal.
> 
> In event viewer, i see Event 41, Kernal-Power. "The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly." Not really helpful, just telling me that there was a force restart.
> 
> Rig details are in my sig. Any ideas what could be wrong?
Click to expand...

Hey guys!

I changed back my PSU from my Andyson 650W F650 80 Plus to my *Corsair HX520W*. I reseated the stock heatsink as well. My CPU temperature is about 75C (always below 80C) when i play BF3.

However, after replacing the PSU and reseating the stock heatsink, i still get the same problem where *"The screen and PC basically hangs and there is a very loud "buzzing noise that sounds like high voltage electricity". The game sounds do not loop. Just this high frequency buzzing noise with the whole PC hanging. Ctrl + Alt + Del/Esc does nothing. I just have to force restart and continue gaming as per normal."*

This has happened with Black Ops before when i was using the "Optimal Mode" in the UEFI "NOOB" mode but since went to advanced and OCed to a humble 3.6ghz and i do not get this anymore in Black Ops. Doing other stuff like surfing and word processing is okay. Just BF3 having this problem for now.

Help me please. Is this a BF3 error (which i highly doubt because i cannot do anything BUT force restart) or is there something wrong with my rig?


----------



## dujo11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If you have the CPU fan set to default it runs at a low RPM when underclocked to save power and takes time to ramp up during a load so the voltage spike is common but the stock cooler can't handle most overclocks over 4.5 without fail. I disable this auto fan profile in bios so it runs at 100% all the time which is helpful especially with the stock cooler. As I mentioned above an aftermarket cooler is highly recommended and I also linked to two coolers. (Cooler Master Hyper 212+ & Thermalright Silver Arrow ) either will work fine with you Vengance Memory & Board. That said even the Scythe would be a better option cooling but I'm not clear about clearance I look to their support pages to get your answer. . I would avoid and recommend not using the AI Suite to many bugs and an unreliable way to make changes to the bios. I use the manual settings in the bios and suggest you do the same. Use Core Temp, Real Temp or what I use (paid ver.) Aida 64 Extreme for your monitoring of the system.
> edit: Also looking at you case I'm not sure it provides adequate ventilation and you might consider a more thermal efficient case.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811160026

Thats my case.. also there are 2x120mm and 4x90mm vents for airflow all zalmans...

What i have done is that i have pull cooler out again and wipe with alcohol whole cpu and socket on mb.. now temps do not go over 80C..

Thermalright Silver Arrow is not aveliable in any store near me.. or in my country..

I will buy Scythe Mine 2 or Thermaltake Jing

But what i would want is 4pin connector to mb for auto RPM regualtion.. :-(

Thx for everything..


----------



## abdo_zoro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> hi all just an update
> so far prime for eight &half hours so far and no bsod
> vcore is between 1.36/1.37 on cpu-z
> temps have not gone above 68
> 
> finger cross


hi dude ,,,,,,could you please tell me exactly what settings did you use in bios


----------



## Cuthroat12

I agree, anyone know how to help with post #4975? Thanks


----------



## Jcoffin1981

I believe a lot of asus boards do this. It's a safety feature so you don't plug or unplug a card or port without disconnecting the power source first. I have forgotten a few times and remember at the last second when I see the light on.


----------



## HGooper

It seems that somehow Asus removed the bios 1850 for P8P67 Pro on their ftp site, is this bios bad or what?


----------



## chillidog

PLEASE SEE POST 5012


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abdo_zoro*
> 
> hi dude ,,,,,,could you please tell me exactly what settings did you use in bios


PLEASE SEE POST 5012:thumb:


----------



## FMullegun

I just bought a P8Z68 V. The only difference between this one and GEN3 is the PCIE 3.0 and Ivy Bridge compatability right?


----------



## owcraftsman

Here is the list of boards that will receive compatibility with the new 22nm die shrink for socket 1155. If I read it correctly your V and my V-Pro will both have support for them
http://promos.asus.com/US/Z68Gen3/index.htm

As far a PCIe 3.0 support that is what the G3 moniker stands for.


----------



## Nelly.

Has anyone owned a P8P67 and moved over to P8Z68?

I read a previous article on overclock.net that a P8P67 Deluxe overclocked better than a P8Z68 PRO by around 0.04V CPU volts for the same stable clock, can anyone confirm this?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1023238/asus-p8z68-deluxe-or-asus-p8p67-deluxe-v3/10#post_14518382
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tryceo*
> Here is something I have experienced. *Z68 will require more voltage to become stable. On my P8P67 Deluxe, I could go 4.4GHz on 1.264v. On the P8Z68-V Pro, I needed 1.304v.* I know this sounds weird, but I think it has something to do with the extra graphics processor in the CPU. *I tried disabling it, and didn't install virtu and just used my GTX 570, but it still requires about 0.04v more to get stable.*
> 
> The only reason I switched was because of the fact that I wanted to make sure the computer could sleep. The Z68 boards does this with a BIOS update, however the P8P67 doesn't (at least not for me). But I will probably switch back to the P8P67 Deluxe, since it will give me a better OC with less temps. Plus, *the P8Z68 is only 12 phase vcore and 4 phase iGPU, while P8P67 is 16 phase vcore and 2 phase RAM. IMO, P8P67 is way better.*


The difference was 0.04v quite significant if clocking stable beyond 1.4V or 1.36V, tempted to get a Asus P8P67 Deluxe or P8Z68 Deluxe as I am after a motherboard with offset as my current MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3) does not have this feature in the bios and only one setting for LLC.

The VID of this CPU even at 4.6GHz is 1.4111v so offset would really come in handy if I want to run it with power saving features enabled.

My other two 2500K's I can only muster 4.5GHz and 4.6GHz stable, maybe a new Asus P8 series board will clock those higher too? who knows . . . .
Quote:


> *2500K: Batch No: 3138A838*
> 4.9GHz = 1.408 load (prime95), 1.408v load (IBT 2.56) 1.424v idle. (Manual CPU Voltage = 1.43v BIOS)
> 4.9GHz = 1.400v load (prime95), 1.42v load (IBT 2.56), 1.01v to 1.06v idle. (Auto CPU Voltage)
> 4.8GHz = 1.336v load (prime95), 1.344v load (IBT 2.56) 1.352v idle. (Manual CPU Voltage = 1.36v BIOS)
> 4.7GHz = 1.296v load (prime95), 1.296v load (IBT 2.56) 1.312v idle. (Manual CPU Voltage = 1.32v BIOS)
> 4.6GHz = 1.384v load (prime95), 1.408v load (IBT 2.56) 1.01v to 1.06v idle. (Auto CPU Voltage)
> 4.6GHz = 1.280v load (prime95), 1.280v load (IBT 2.56) 1.296v idle. (Manual CPU Voltage = 1.30v BIOS)


----------



## owcraftsman

If Lucid Virtu was enabled this would account for the discrepancy and I've seen more of a difference than that with it enabled. However .004v is so small of a difference, but as you suggest .04v is significant, with an overclock that it's not uncommon to see that difference from one proc to the next. I know with Lucid Virtu enabled, my top OC was 4.6 at 1.345v and I could do 4.8 at that same voltage with it disabled. Keep in mind the GPU within the proc has it's own voltage settings and can also be overclocked.

For the record if your proc ain't up to it no mobo will help. I also have an MSI Z68A-GD80 and was able to get the same stable overclock with both boards same proc.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If Lucid Virtu was enabled this would account for the discrepancy and I've seen more of a difference than that with it enabled. However .004v is so small of a difference, but as you suggest .04v is significant, with an overclock that it's not uncommon to see that difference from one proc to the next. I know with Lucid Virtu enabled, my top OC was 4.6 at 1.345v and I could do 4.8 at that same voltage with it disabled. Keep in mind the GPU within the proc has it's own voltage settings and can also be overclocked.
> For the record if your proc ain't up to it no mobo will help. I also have an MSI Z68A-GD80 and was able to get the same stable overclock with both boards same proc.


But I think what he quoted above was a man using the "same" CPU but with different chipset boards and he got significant difference between VCore settings to get them stable.


----------



## Nelly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But I think what he quoted above was a man using the "same" CPU but with different chipset boards and he got significant difference between VCore settings to get them stable.


Correct, this is why I highlighted it so it would stand out more.

Hopefully someone who has switched from P67 to Z68 same model motherboards using the same processor can tell me overclocking difference in terms of voltages used.


----------



## energydream2007

Hay all. iv just ordered P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 and i see that there is Lucid Virtu feature on it but no iGPU (so how does it works?? the Virtu is really on? whats going on there) cause it can be nice to have a saving power heat and faster trsancoding and such . should i go with v-pro? (just for you to know i do have discrete gpu - GTX460). can someone plz explain about this?

oh and i also ordered 2600K! is it too much powerfull? should i get the 2500K and put the money on more ram? 8GB now vs 16GB. tnx for the help


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *energydream2007*
> 
> Hay all. iv just ordered P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 and i see that there is Lucid Virtu feature on it but no iGPU (so how does it works?? the Virtu is really on? whats going on there) cause it can be nice to have a saving power heat and faster trsancoding and such . should i go with v-pro? (just for you to know i do have discrete gpu - GTX460). can someone plz explain about this?
> oh and i also ordered 2600K! is it too much powerfull? should i get the 2500K and put the money on more ram? 8GB now vs 16GB. tnx for the help


IMO, go with the 2500K if you don't need hyperthreading (which most of us don't anyway). Hope that helps


----------



## Infinite Jest

Is there any reason I should update my bios from 1502 to a later version? The release notes on the two newer version seem pretty blah.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> I would like to make a members list, adding the Pro owners.
> 
> Hope for some members here


P8P67 WS Revolution (rev B3) owner here. Specs and BIOS profile are in my two page user album.

Interestingly enough my IBT temperatures are 10% higher than my Prime95 Blend (customized for maximum RAM use) were.

... because I need _more_ clubs to belong to...


----------



## iARDAs

An SLI bridge did not come in my Motherboard package.

How can I order an SLI bridge for my Asus p8z68v-le ?

Would any random SLI bridge do or should it be specific?


----------



## psupef2k

Hello all. P8Z68-V/GEN3 & 2500k owner here. I haven't built in 6 years, so any advice on a stable & safe OC for a 2500k on this board would be appreciated. I've played with it a bit already, and currently have my settings as listed below and at 4.4ghz...but I haven't done any stability testing yet, as I am not completely sure they are safe, but from what I've read, 4.5ghz for the 2500k isn't overly difficult to reach. Any thoughts or advice?

Full system specs:

ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3
i5 2500k @ TBD | Hyper 212 EVO
G.SKILL 4x2 8GB DDR3 1600 CL9-9-9-24 1.35v
MSI Lightning GTX580 | Corsair HX850 PSU
128GB Crucial M4 SSD | Corsair 600T White Edition

Current settings:


































Results (taken during windows 7 performance assessment):










windows score 7.6 went to 7.7 going from 43x to 45x. Idle clock goes to 1600mhz and voltage fluctuates between .96 and 1.150, usually staying below 1.1.

My main concern here is the CPU Aux voltage in the bottom right. Is that the CPU PLL voltage? That seems really high and I don't want to stress test at this speed if that number is dangerous. I have since disabled Interal PLL overvoltage in the settings, and manually set the PLL voltage to 1.5, but AIDA continues to read it at 2.032.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Good day all ...

I am hoping that someone could help me with some info ...

I am building a new lan rig and want 2 go SB again ... ... My main system at home is in my sig ... I use the P8Z68-V Pro ...

My Question is ...

How does the V- Pro compare to the EVO ... ... As much as I want to future proof with ivy bridge ... The evo is much cheaper than any gen 3 boards in my country and it has dual lan which would help me a lot !

All information greatly appreciated.

Regards.


----------



## XxJMatz675Xx

Does the P8Z68 LX suck i bought it i am looking for something reliable and nice im only overclocking to 4.0ghz and i use AMD graphic cards


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> An SLI bridge did not come in my Motherboard package.
> How can I order an SLI bridge for my Asus p8z68v-le ?
> Would any random SLI bridge do or should it be specific?


SLI bridges aren't included with the LE I'm afraid. I know that there are plenty of places on Ebay to get one, though Newegg also sells them for around $20.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> SLI bridges aren't included with the LE I'm afraid. I know that there are plenty of places on Ebay to get one, though Newegg also sells them for around $20.


Thank you for the response.

Would any SLI bridge do? Or do i need to purchase a specific one?

One last thing p8z68v-le is sli compatible right?

Makes me wonder why they did not put a SLI bridge in it.


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thank you for the response.
> Would any SLI bridge do? Or do i need to purchase a specific one?
> One last thing p8z68v-le is sli compatible right?
> Makes me wonder why they did not put a SLI bridge in it.


The LE might be able to do SLI, but the second card will only run at x4 which is why the board isn't recommended as a SLI board. I haven't seen any suggestion that the board is even SLI compatible so perhaps it's best to avoid SLI with this board.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> The LE might be able to do SLI, but the second card will only run at x4 which is why the board isn't recommended as a SLI board. I haven't seen any suggestion that the board is even SLI compatible so perhaps it's best to avoid SLI with this board.


Thank you

I did a huge mistaking purchasing this version.

Anyway whats done is done.

I will either go with a 590 instead of 570 SLI or wait for a top of the line 6xx card...

Besides the fact that SLI is not recommended, this mobo will be quite good for a single card setup i assume?


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Is there any reason I should update my bios from 1502 to a later version? The release notes on the two newer version seem pretty blah.


Anyone? I'd rather not flash a new BIOS unless there are significant improvements with any of the new releases.


----------



## energydream2007

hey OCN. needs some help here. iv just ordered P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 and i see that there is Lucid Virtu feature on it but the board dont use video outputs on it like lets say the v-pro. so how does it works?? the Virtu is really on? whats going on there. i cant seem to understand that.
should iv go with P8Z68-V PRO? cause it can be nice to have a saving power heat and faster trsancoding and such.
just for you to know i do have discrete gpu - GTX460.
can someone plz explain about all of this? tnx all


----------



## czhouchem

Hi all, I would like to build a new gaming desktop. 2500k and 6970 (probably will xfire in the future). Could you recommend a good z68 or p67 mobo for me? Thanks!


----------



## FDNY911

I would like to be added to this club but since Turrican9 is gone I guess I will just add my self lol

ASUS P8Z68-V/Gen3










I do not have my PSU yet (Tomorrow) So I can't run any programs like most of you did. I will as soon as its running.


----------



## modnub

purchased a p8p67 le recently! man asus customer service is horrible or just that one dude i spoke to


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thank you
> I did a huge mistaking purchasing this version.
> Anyway whats done is done.
> I will either go with a 590 instead of 570 SLI or wait for a top of the line 6xx card...
> Besides the fact that SLI is not recommended, this mobo will be quite good for a single card setup i assume?


I don't think I've ever seen a mobo that couldn't handle a single card setup









Just make sure you have room in your case and you'll be fine.


----------



## aliatgb

I am about to take the plunge and purchase a P8Z68-V/GEN3 board but wanted one question answered.

I want to use both the onboard video and my PCI-E video card together. I don't mean this new fangled way of doing it (Lucid Virtu feature), I mean I want to hook up 2 monitors to my PCI-E video card and 2 monitors to the onboard video card for a 4 monitor display. I know I can buy the new 6 series eyefinity cards and do this but I want to keep my old card until the 7 series cards are out and in the mean time I want to have 4 displays. Anyone have an answer?

I have been searching for hours to the answer of this question. I even browsed the P8Z68-V/GEN3 manual and could not find a definitive answer.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aliatgb*
> 
> I am about to take the plunge and purchase a P8Z68-V/GEN3 board but wanted one question answered.
> 
> I want to use both the onboard video and my PCI-E video card together. I don't mean this new fangled way of doing it (Lucid Virtu feature), I mean I want to hook up 2 monitors to my PCI-E video card and 2 monitors to the onboard video card for a 4 monitor display. I know I can buy the new 6 series eyefinity cards and do this but I want to keep my old card until the 7 series cards are out and in the mean time I want to have 4 displays. Anyone have an answer?
> 
> I have been searching for hours to the answer of this question. I even browsed the P8Z68-V/GEN3 manual and could not find a definitive answer.


I'm not entirely sure that you will be happy with the performance. Here's how another OCN member did it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1021966/solved-four-monitors-sandy-bridge-z68-plus-8800gt

Note that he had one monitor on the on-board DVI, one monitor on the on-board HDMI with a DVI adapter, and 2 monitors on his video card. The main monitor is served by his video card and the other three are expanded.

I'm not entirely sure if he's going to get game-quality framerates with this setup. You might PM him.


----------



## Petey

Just subscribed, And a few questions to a I5 2500k oc question. Just finished a build, and reviewed the first few pages, I was wondering if there were any limitations. I've read don't exceed 1.55 for voltage was wondering if temperatures are really good can you break that rule, as the same for x multiplier and fsb, is there any limit. Would appreciate any help. I love my new system don't want to break it.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Petey*
> 
> Just subscribed, And a few questions to a I5 2500k oc question. Just finished a build, and reviewed the first few pages, I was wondering if there were any limitations. I've read don't exceed 1.55 for voltage was wondering if temperatures are really good can you break that rule, as the same for x multiplier and fsb, is there any limit. Would appreciate any help. I love my new system don't want to break it.


1.55 vcore? Thats way high, Ive seen 1.4v for air cooling 24/7 and 1.45v for water cooling 24/7 And 1.52v MAX and I wouldn't use that unless I was benching a really high overclock.

For temps keep it under 85c as a max, But for me the max is 75c









Overclock with the multiplier not the FSB. You can try the to up the FSB, But it will most likely not work out.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Petey*
> 
> Just subscribed, And a few questions to a I5 2500k oc question. Just finished a build, and reviewed the first few pages, I was wondering if there were any limitations. I've read don't exceed 1.55 for voltage was wondering if temperatures are really good can you break that rule, as the same for x multiplier and fsb, is there any limit. Would appreciate any help. I love my new system don't want to break it.


That's a nice looking rig. (I took the photo out of your quote.)

The general consensus on temperature is that 95C is the highest that is "safe" to hit occasionally and that 100C is roughly where the Intel CPU circuitry self-regulates and throttles down to a lower frequency to cool things down. There is no hard and fast rule on this as TJmax can actually vary from chip to chip and is not published or accessible. My TJmax, from everything I could discern, is 98C but even that is just a guess. This article talks a great deal more about TJmax. http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/docs.php

Most people, with a few "extreme" over-clocking folks excluded, do not adjust the BCLK (which is essentially the FSB but is really the Base Clock frequency) at all. Those who do adjust it, typically stay below a 5% increase, as any more than that typically causes some rather serious stability issues. There's almost no need to adjust the BCLK in most scenarios.

That being said, Intel lists VID Voltage Range is 0.800V-1.375V and I know that some OCers feel quite safe at 1.45V with adequate cooling but.... 1.55V !?!?









Intel Data-Sheets say 1.40V max on page 23 too!

1.55V is awfully high, in my opinion, just like 98C is awfully high in my opinion.

Here's some information about my system. This may or may not help you:

Asus P8P67 WS Revolution Rev B3 BIOS 1402 09/20/2011
Intel i5-2500K
Air Cooled: ThermalRight Venemous-X RT
2x 4096 MB G.Skill PC3-12800 (800 MHz) DDR 3, F3-12800CL8-4GB clocked at XMP values of 8-8-8-24-2T 1.500V

Prime95 Blend (customized for 90% or more RAM used) for 18 hours 45 minutes: (no errors, no warnings)

Bus Speed: 100.0 MHz
Core Speed: 4.7000 GHz
Vcoremax: 1.352V
Tcoremax: 71C / 79C / 79C / 75C
Tmin: 19C / 19C / 19C / 19C ((Note: this is an unusually low Tmin, due to a short period of time that I had a window open and Tambient was 17C. Tmax values reflect Tambient = 25C))
Tambient: 25C
TJmax: ~98C

Intel Burn Test (Maximum Stress Level) 5 runs: (~127 GFlops, no errors ~702 seconds)

Bus Speed: 100.0 MHz
Core Speed: 4.7007 GHz
Vcoremax: 1.368V
Tcoremax: 77C / 87C / 88C / 83C
Tambient: 25C
Tmin: 28C / 28C / 28C / 28C
TJmax: ~98C
I personally do not want to go above 1.400V _ever_ and I also do not want to go above 80C for sustained periods of time. I'll point out that when I game, fold, or do any of my daily tasks on my PC that I rarely see temperatures above 65C and I only occasionally get spikes of 70C in extreme circumstances.

EDIT: Yes, both tests are run with the same settings. I have my core voltage regulating automatically with an offset of +0.025V and my multiplier is set at 47 for the 4.7GHz rating. My CPU will vary between 1.6GHz and 0.976V and 4.7GHz and 1.352V. Apparently the IBT really eats things up though, and makes my voltage go just a wee bit higher than Prime95 does for some reason. My BIOS settings are visible in my user photo gallery.

I built my system to run quietly and I could push my temperatures lower if I wanted to sacrifice near-silent computing at normal operation for slightly lower temperatures. (My loudest component, by far, is my GTX 580 when it's hitting its 85% fan-speed threshold during folding or heavy 3D gaming/benchmarking.)


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> 1.55V is awfully high, in my opinion, just like 98C is awfully high in my opinion.


This old guy was running his computerchip at 1.64 V, much to high... (post #2994). I have not a good overclocker, vid=1.371V. But the chip withstands high temperatures and voltages: at 5.1Mhz and 1.64V, temperatures are raising very fast with prime95 up to 98°C before downclocking, but I could run FS2004 for hours at that speed. Now I am overclocking to 4.7, but the chip is only very stable at 4.6 and 1.410V vcore, but going hot with prime95 (96°C) and air cooling. Until now I have no problems at 4.7 with Flight Simulator, my favorith passion.

hmar


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar*
> 
> This old guy was running his computerchip at 1.64 V, much to high... (post #2994). I have not a good overclocker, vid=1.371V. But the chip withstands high temperatures and voltages: at 5.1Mhz and 1.64V, temperatures are raising very fast with prime95 up to 98°C before downclocking, but I could run FS2004 for hours at that speed. Now I am overclocking to 4.7, but the chip is only very stable at 4.6 and 1.410V vcore, but going hot with prime95 (96°C) and air cooling. Until now I have no problems at 4.7 with Flight Simulator, my favorith passion.
> 
> hmar


1.410V and 4.6GHz sounds reasonable. 96C sounds like you need to do some work on your cooling solution as that's close to where the CPU will start throttling itself down. What heatsink and fan do you use and how is your case fan setup?


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> 1.410V and 4.6GHz sounds reasonable. 96C sounds like you need to do some work on your cooling solution as that's close to where the CPU will start throttling itself down. What heatsink and fan do you use and how is your case fan setup?


I did a bad choice for a Scyte Rasetsu, not that the cooler is bad but the case is closed at the site of the fan. I am not sure that I did a good job with the cooler paste too, it is aplied with an extremely thin layer. Thinking of replacing the Rasetsu by a Corsair H80.

hmar


----------



## Petey

It was just with a max liquid cooling, the chip plays a whole new role, I had prime 95 maxed with kombustor running, I know hard on the system, looked at system in AI suite all cores 4.5xx running. Reaching only 48 Celsius. The thing freaks me out. Im like for boost like air cooling, what 8ghz. The chip seems pretty complex though and I feel if I start trying to max it out, something inside is going to pop. To think 4.5 constant prime 95 running easy. Its a mind blower. I know every one can get 5ghz. but like your saying 90 + Celsius. How long do those cores stay at those speeds. The other thing, when speed of the cpu is screaming, at what ghz does it all becomes redundant like the processor is screaming and the components cant keep up.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> 1.410V and 4.6GHz sounds reasonable. 96C sounds like you need to do some work on your cooling solution as that's close to where the CPU will start throttling itself down. What heatsink and fan do you use and how is your case fan setup?
> 
> 
> 
> I did a bad choice for a Scyte Rasetsu, not that the cooler is bad but the case is closed at the site of the fan. I am not sure that I did a good job with the cooler paste too, it is aplied with an extremely thin layer. Thinking of replacing the Rasetsu by a Corsair H80.
> 
> hmar
Click to expand...

A thin layer is what you want. The purpose of thermal paste/grease is to fill in the pores of the metal on the cpu cover and on the heat sink surface, so that the two have a uniform connection. Think of it like putting a skim layer of concrete down over a rough asphalt roadway to make it super-smooth to drive on. That's all you want. Putting a large amount of thermal paste down is counterproductive.

I'd bring your OC down some until you get those temperatures to max out at 80 or so. That's just my own personal opinion though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Petey*
> 
> It was just with a max liquid cooling, the chip plays a whole new role, I had prime 95 maxed with kombustor running, I know hard on the system, looked at system in AI suite all cores 4.5xx running. Reaching only 48 Celsius. The thing freaks me out. Im like for boost like air cooling, what 8ghz. The chip seems pretty complex though and I feel if I start trying to max it out, something inside is going to pop. To think 4.5 constant prime 95 running easy. Its a mind blower. I know every one can get 5ghz. but like your saying 90 + Celsius. How long do those cores stay at those speeds. The other thing, when speed of the cpu is screaming, at what ghz does it all becomes redundant like the processor is screaming and the components cant keep up.


Your temperatures are great. Many people believe that there's a performance plateau in the 4.7GHz to 4.8GHz range for our CPUs. It's not that faster isn't better, it's just a case of diminishing returns when you consider voltage and heat. Considering your temperatures, as long as you can keep your voltage in check, you probably _could_ get into the 4.8 to 5.0 GHz range. That's impressive. 4.5 GHz is certainly "enough" (or more than enough) for most tasks anyhow.







The real latencies in a system are your controllers. Memory controllers, hard drive controllers, and so on. I think that the biggest bottleneck in computing is probably the memory controller. Hard drives used to be a bottle-neck but SSDs have changed that in many ways.

Frequencies don't get much higher, on a practical level, than what we're getting right now. There are five and ten year old CPUs that have the same frequencies as we have now. The difference is that our newest CPUs take advantage of multiple cores, streamlined architectures, more instruction sets, better power and thermal economy, and in some cases hyperthreading. Threading in general is where the advancements are being made now. Raw clock speed is becoming less important and architecture and instruction sets along with programs being written to be more multi-core efficient are where the big performance gains are. That's not to say that OC isn't a good thing. OC helps everything run faster and in multi-thread environments, you're running each thread faster. That's great, but it's slightly less relevant than it was back when there were only single core CPUs and most people were not running multi-cpu motherboards.


----------



## Petey

This may sound stupid, but are ssd HD on a latency set up, or do they rely on memory or cpu to configure that. Ive been trying to figure out the memory oc of the z68, as well. I know go and click your mhz, but with this cpu it has all changed, is there some kind of stepping for memory as well? I take a look at latencys in bios and it looks scary. just like I'll leave it alone. I couldnt tell how its running 2000 mhz. on the low voltage it does, then running 4 dimms of that, less than a year ago that was a wet dream. No matter what I did to memory it would crash getting anywhere near where it is now. I guess in short, How Do It Work.


----------



## elbubi

Hello guys, first post in here







(Left the "blue" side since Pentium Mmx but I'm back on the right road again...)

I've recently bought an Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 and a Corsair GT120, and I have one doubt:

Since I'm planning on using it as primary drive (and NO intention to use Intel Smart Response Technology), do I need to install Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver? I have no clue what its actual purpose really is...










Thanks in advance!!!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Petey*
> 
> This may sound stupid, but are ssd HD on a latency set up, or do they rely on memory or cpu to configure that. Ive been trying to figure out the memory oc of the z68, as well. I know go and click your mhz, but with this cpu it has all changed, is there some kind of stepping for memory as well? I take a look at latencys in bios and it looks scary. just like I'll leave it alone. I couldnt tell how its running 2000 mhz. on the low voltage it does, then running 4 dimms of that, less than a year ago that was a wet dream. No matter what I did to memory it would crash getting anywhere near where it is now. I guess in short, How Do It Work.


Z68 & P67, for that matter, systems will default to 1333 MHz no matter what sticks you buy, unless you manually set up in bios or use the XMP profile. If you use the XMP profile the memory should run at the mfg spec what ever that is. After setting XMP in bios saving a reentering the bios all recommended timings should be visible at which point you can jot that down and use to manually set up at given OC. Many who overclock and find stability do so with this method not leaving to chance auto settings from the bios. Many other will set the first four settings & Command rate, found on the memory module sticker, and voltage manually leaving the rest at auto. Since the memory controller is located on the proc using 4 dimm is a extra load and usually requires manually setting the timings and upping some voltages in order to run at rated specs ie Vdimm, PLL and SA. Some are luckier than other is this regard it all depends on the strength of the proc 1st and motherboard 2nd. That said there is no discernible difference in performance between 1333 and 2000 which is why many opt for lower priced memory and spend those hard earned dollars elsewhere like say on an SSD but if a large amount of available RAM is your game buy a matched set of four and your chances of success are much greater. I personally think 1600 sicks are the sweet spot and it's runs most high OCs (4.8-5.0) well/stable at that speed in 4 stick config which represents a good combo of value, speed and performance.


----------



## mastical

So Im trying to delete/clear OC profiles from my P67 Evo, I bought the board used and cant figure out for the life of me how to remove them.

Am i dumb or is this kind of tricky to do?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical*
> 
> So Im trying to delete/clear OC profiles from my P67 Evo, I bought the board used and cant figure out for the life of me how to remove them.
> 
> Am i dumb or is this kind of tricky to do?


Overwrite them with stock settings? I actually never saw a way to delete them myself either. I just overwrote them.


----------



## orlywutlol

Whats the general consensus on offset voltage vs manual? Any advantages over one or the other?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*
> 
> Whats the general consensus on offset voltage vs manual? Any advantages over one or the other?


Offset can help overall temps and the longevity of your chips life.


----------



## UnrulyCactus

Please add me to the list of owners of having a P8Z68-V LX !


----------



## orlywutlol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Offset can help overall temps and the longevity of your chips life.


I see, I was reading conflicting opinions that if you set your voltage to manual you can get a more stable OC with less voltage?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*
> 
> I see, I was reading conflicting opinions that if you set your voltage to manual you can get a more stable OC with less voltage?


Not the case, no matter what, your cpu requires a certain voltage to be stable, now the important part is how you give it that voltage. With manual it'll stay at those voltages no matter what, however with offset, it kinda bounces around according to the load, but if you set it correctly, then what you get with manual can be done with the offset method. it's just a matter of testing it out.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Overwrite them with stock settings? I actually never saw a way to delete them myself either. I just overwrote them.


Thanks, for some reason i didnt think of this


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Z68 & P67, for that matter, systems will default to 1333 MHz no matter what sticks you buy, unless you manually set up in bios or use the XMP profile. If you use the XMP profile the memory should run at the mfg spec what ever that is. After setting XMP in bios saving a reentering the bios all recommended timings should be visible at which point you can jot that down and use to manually set up at given OC. Many who overclock and find stability do so with this method not leaving to chance auto settings from the bios. Many other will set the first four settings & Command rate, found on the memory module sticker, and voltage manually leaving the rest at auto. Since the memory controller is located on the proc using 4 dimm is a extra load and usually requires manually setting the timings and upping some voltages in order to run at rated specs ie Vdimm, PLL and SA. Some are luckier than other is this regard it all depends on the strength of the proc 1st and motherboard 2nd. That said there is no discernible difference in performance between 1333 and 2000 which is why many opt for lower priced memory and spend those hard earned dollars elsewhere like say on an SSD but if a large amount of available RAM is your game buy a matched set of four and your chances of success are much greater. I personally think 1600 sicks are the sweet spot and it's runs most high OCs (4.8-5.0) well/stable at that speed in 4 stick config which represents a good combo of value, speed and performance.


Well, in my system my Ripjaws X sticks' BIOS/UEFI default clock speed is 1600MHz. Any explanation to this?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Z68 & P67, for that matter, systems will default to 1333 MHz no matter what sticks you buy, unless you manually set up in bios or use the XMP profile. If you use the XMP profile the memory should run at the mfg spec what ever that is. After setting XMP in bios saving a reentering the bios all recommended timings should be visible at which point you can jot that down and use to manually set up at given OC. Many who overclock and find stability do so with this method not leaving to chance auto settings from the bios. Many other will set the first four settings & Command rate, found on the memory module sticker, and voltage manually leaving the rest at auto. Since the memory controller is located on the proc using 4 dimm is a extra load and usually requires manually setting the timings and upping some voltages in order to run at rated specs ie Vdimm, PLL and SA. Some are luckier than other is this regard it all depends on the strength of the proc 1st and motherboard 2nd. That said there is no discernible difference in performance between 1333 and 2000 which is why many opt for lower priced memory and spend those hard earned dollars elsewhere like say on an SSD but if a large amount of available RAM is your game buy a matched set of four and your chances of success are much greater. I personally think 1600 sicks are the sweet spot and it's runs most high OCs (4.8-5.0) well/stable at that speed in 4 stick config which represents a good combo of value, speed and performance.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, in my system my Ripjaws X sticks' BIOS/UEFI default clock speed is 1600MHz. Any explanation to this?
Click to expand...

nope


----------



## SharpShoot3r07

Can anyone confirm if this heatink
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
will fit into this mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131771&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-

If you read the reviews for the heatsink the 4th review down says it wouldn't fit on a Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard. That mobo is the same layout as the P8P67 one I have


----------



## gsa700

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if this heatink
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
> will fit into this mobo
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131771&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-
> If you read the reviews for the heatsink the 4th review down says it wouldn't fit on a Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard. That mobo is the same layout as the P8P67 one I have


I can't imagine it not working. The only issue is the same as always: buy low profile ram so it fits under the heatsink fan....


----------



## SharpShoot3r07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsa700*
> 
> I can't imagine it not working. The only issue is the same as always: buy low profile ram so it fits under the heatsink fan....


Well the part I am thinking where the heatsink would hit is here (circled in red)


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> 1.410V and 4.6GHz sounds reasonable. 96C sounds like you need to do some work on your cooling solution as that's close to where the CPU will start throttling itself down. What heatsink and fan do you use and how is your case fan setup?


well, I have replaced my MOBO and the Scyte Rasetsu. First, why the MOBO ?. I got a cramp in my fingers while I placed the CPU back and it dropped in the CPU socket -> some contact springs were very badly plied and the CPU didn't start any more.
There was something terribly wong with my Rasetsu or its installation, the temps are now 20° LOWER, really !, with the Corsair H80.
At 4.7Gh temps are going now to 65° with prime95 running, with the Rasetsu temps were going to 98° and the CPU was trottling back.

hmar


----------



## gsa700

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> Well the part I am thinking where the heatsink would hit is here (circled in red)


It won't hit there. I have two of these motherboards and neither one was a problem at all. The memory will be taller than the vrm heatsink so you should be fine.


----------



## SharpShoot3r07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsa700*
> 
> It won't hit there. I have two of these motherboards and neither one was a problem at all. The memory will be taller than the vrm heatsink so you should be fine.


Thanks, any idea of a blue LED fan I can use to replace the stock fan?


----------



## Tradio

just a got a new Asus p8z68-v PRO mobo. I have an 120 GB SSD connected to the WHITE 6 GB sata port and 2 Western Digital HDDs (700 GB, 1TB respectively) connected to the LIGHT BLUE 3GB sata ports. I installed win 7 x64 on my SSD and it went fine. After that I connected both of my HDDs and now the computer hangs at the ASUS logo screen, wont boot into bios or windows - just hangs at the logo. In the BIOS, i have ACHI mode enabled and every HOT PLUG settings is set to ENABLED. So then I just tried plugging one of the HDDs (while leaving the SSD plugged in as well) I found out that the computer will when ONLY the 700 GB HDD is attached, but when I plug in the 1 TB hdd, the computer will boot past the logo. So I let the machine boot into windows with just the SSD attached. And then I connected both HDDs and windows recognized both and I was able to use both. So its a weird thing, ASUS bios wont boot or recognize my 1 TB drive but after i let it boot to windows, both HDDs work fine. All sata ports are working fine, i tested them. What could this be? Is there any BIOS setting I am not enabling? Only the 1 TB hdd is giving me issues, the 700GB works fine. anyone have any ideas what could be the problem?


----------



## dennyb

Check the SATA Configuration section in Advanced MENU to see if all of the SATA offerings are enabled.


----------



## Tradio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> Check the SATA Configuration section in Advanced MENU to see if all of the SATA offerings are enabled.


if you read my post you see that I did enable all ports and verified SATA is on


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tradio*
> 
> just a got a new Asus p8z68-v PRO mobo. I have an 120 GB SSD connected to the WHITE 6 GB sata port and 2 Western Digital HDDs (700 GB, 1TB respectively) connected to the LIGHT BLUE 3GB sata ports. I installed win 7 x64 on my SSD and it went fine. After that I connected both of my HDDs and now the computer hangs at the ASUS logo screen, wont boot into bios or windows - just hangs at the logo. In the BIOS, i have ACHI mode enabled and every HOT PLUG settings is set to ENABLED. So then I just tried plugging one of the HDDs (while leaving the SSD plugged in as well) I found out that the computer will when ONLY the 700 GB HDD is attached, but when I plug in the 1 TB hdd, the computer will boot past the logo. So I let the machine boot into windows with just the SSD attached. And then I connected both HDDs and windows recognized both and I was able to use both. So its a weird thing, ASUS bios wont boot or recognize my 1 TB drive but after i let it boot to windows, both HDDs work fine. All sata ports are working fine, i tested them. What could this be? Is there any BIOS setting I am not enabling? Only the 1 TB hdd is giving me issues, the 700GB works fine. anyone have any ideas what could be the problem?


I suggest reserving the SATA3 ports controlled by Z68 for SSDs and try to stay from the Marvell ports until you have to use them. Mechanical drives can't make use of SATA3 speeds so it's best to just use them with the SATA2 ports.


----------



## elbubi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbubi*
> 
> Hello guys, first post in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Left the "blue" side since Pentium Mmx but I'm back on the right road again...)
> I've recently bought an Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 and a Corsair GT120, and I have one doubt:
> Since I'm planning on using it as primary drive (and NO intention to use Intel Smart Response Technology), do I need to install Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver? I have no clue what its actual purpose really is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!!!


Anyone? Please...

Thanks in advance.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tradio*
> 
> just a got a new Asus p8z68-v PRO mobo. I have an 120 GB SSD connected to the WHITE 6 GB sata port and 2 Western Digital HDDs (700 GB, 1TB respectively) connected to the LIGHT BLUE 3GB sata ports. I installed win 7 x64 on my SSD and it went fine. After that I connected both of my HDDs and now the computer hangs at the ASUS logo screen, wont boot into bios or windows - just hangs at the logo. In the BIOS, i have ACHI mode enabled and every HOT PLUG settings is set to ENABLED. So then I just tried plugging one of the HDDs (while leaving the SSD plugged in as well) I found out that the computer will when ONLY the 700 GB HDD is attached, but when I plug in the 1 TB hdd, the computer will boot past the logo. So I let the machine boot into windows with just the SSD attached. And then I connected both HDDs and windows recognized both and I was able to use both. So its a weird thing, ASUS bios wont boot or recognize my 1 TB drive but after i let it boot to windows, both HDDs work fine. All sata ports are working fine, i tested them. What could this be? Is there any BIOS setting I am not enabling? Only the 1 TB hdd is giving me issues, the 700GB works fine. anyone have any ideas what could be the problem?
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest reserving the SATA3 ports controlled by Z68 for SSDs and try to stay from the Marvell ports until you have to use them. Mechanical drives can't make use of SATA3 speeds so it's best to just use them with the SATA2 ports.
Click to expand...

I absolutely agree and add, avoid using the jmicron and marvel ports and disable both in bios for faster boots if you must use them use optical drives only and avoid storage devices on those ports.

What is the model # of the 700 HDD? Maybe it needs a firmware update have you run diagnostics on it? what ever the mfg they all have tools that can be downloaded free to test the units functionality. Does the drive support all that you have enabled in bios? if not, that may cause a conflict which may well lead to replacing the drive or disabling features to correct the conflict. The good news is you found the source of your trouble let's hope there is a fix. Start with the firmware, then trouble shoot with mfg software and then try disabling hot swap etc in bios at which point you will have to determine for your self if the lost capabilities are worth the use if that drive.


----------



## `danny

After a day or so of use I noticed an annoying issue that seems to be plaguing other P8Z68 users. When I put the system to sleep or hibernate it goes down properly but for some reason I cannot wake it back up with a keyboard or mouse. When I press the power button on the front of the case the fans and everything turn on (monitor stays asleep) for a few seconds and then the system again goes to sleep. It will then wake and sleep repeatedly until I pull the power on the system and cold boot it. I have tried disabling the PLL overvoltage option in the EFI Bios however that has not helped at all. My P8Z68 board is a GEN 3 Deluxe with the latest stable UEFI version (0301). Anybody else on this site experience this and know of any fixes or workarounds?


----------



## gsa700

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> Thanks, any idea of a blue LED fan I can use to replace the stock fan?


Not specifically but make sure you get a high quality fan as it will be your most important fan in the system.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsa700*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> Thanks, any idea of a blue LED fan I can use to replace the stock fan?
> 
> 
> 
> Not specifically but make sure you get a high quality fan as it will be your most important fan in the system.
Click to expand...

Two good blue led fans however I'm partial to Gentle Typhoon AP-15 for HS & Rads less bling but big performance
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27150
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103060


----------



## Tradio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I absolutely agree and add, avoid using the jmicron and marvel ports and disable both in bios for faster boots if you must use them use optical drives only and avoid storage devices on those ports.
> What is the model # of the 700 HDD? Maybe it needs a firmware update have you run diagnostics on it? what ever the mfg they all have tools that can be downloaded free to test the units functionality. Does the drive support all that you have enabled in bios? if not, that may cause a conflict which may well lead to replacing the drive or disabling features to correct the conflict. The good news is you found the source of your trouble let's hope there is a fix. Start with the firmware, then trouble shoot with mfg software and then try disabling hot swap etc in bios at which point you will have to determine for your self if the lost capabilities are worth the use if that drive.


this is the exact drive giving me problems: http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Desktop-WD10EARS/dp/B002U1N95K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1322427348&sr=8-2

there is no firmware update, I ran the diagnostic tools and the drive is 100% healthy. I am only using the light blue (3 GB/s) sata ports and not the 6gb or the Marvell ports. I have ACHI mode enabled and I tested all sata ports on the board, tried different sata cables - they all are operational. Have no idea why this drive is not letting the mobo boot. As I stated, once I am in windows 7, I connect the drive it works flawless.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tradio*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I absolutely agree and add, avoid using the jmicron and marvel ports and disable both in bios for faster boots if you must use them use optical drives only and avoid storage devices on those ports.
> What is the model # of the 700 HDD? Maybe it needs a firmware update have you run diagnostics on it? what ever the mfg they all have tools that can be downloaded free to test the units functionality. Does the drive support all that you have enabled in bios? if not, that may cause a conflict which may well lead to replacing the drive or disabling features to correct the conflict. The good news is you found the source of your trouble let's hope there is a fix. Start with the firmware, then trouble shoot with mfg software and then try disabling hot swap etc in bios at which point you will have to determine for your self if the lost capabilities are worth the use if that drive.
> 
> 
> 
> this is the exact drive giving me problems: http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Desktop-WD10EARS/dp/B002U1N95K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1322427348&sr=8-2
> 
> there is no firmware update, I ran the diagnostic tools and the drive is 100% healthy. I am only using the light blue (3 GB/s) sata ports and not the 6gb or the Marvell ports. I have ACHI mode enabled and I tested all sata ports on the board, tried different sata cables - they all are operational. Have no idea why this drive is not letting the mobo boot. As I stated, once I am in windows 7, I connect the drive it works flawless.
Click to expand...

When you plug it in the WD10EARS and power on the system, do you go immediately in to bios and set the Intel 320 SSDto the initial (1st) boot device if not try that. Sometimes when you connect a new HDD it will jump to the top of this list unexpectedly. I even disable all other HDD/s and optical drives from the boot order to speed booting. Try that and report back.


----------



## lichking2011

Hi friends .
I want to know which one has a better performance for oc and gaming :
1 - asus z68-v pro
2 - asus p67 sabertooth
3 - asus p67 pro
And is the asrock z68 ext4 gen3 valuable than these ?
Thanks a lot .


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*
> 
> Whats the general consensus on offset voltage vs manual? Any advantages over one or the other?
> 
> 
> 
> Offset can help overall temps and the longevity of your chips life.
Click to expand...

I prefer automatic voltages using the enhanced Intel Speedstep with a small positive offset to stabilize my OC. I found mine by reading the wealth of knowledge on this forum and also from the advice given by Juan Jose (an Asus rep) over at the Hardforum I ended up using + 0.025V offset for 4.7 / 4.8 GHz and it seems to work well with my other settings. Your results may vary.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *orlywutlol*
> 
> I see, I was reading conflicting opinions that if you set your voltage to manual you can get a more stable OC with less voltage?
> 
> 
> 
> Not the case, no matter what, your cpu requires a certain voltage to be stable, now the important part is how you give it that voltage. With manual it'll stay at those voltages no matter what, however with offset, it kinda bounces around according to the load, but if you set it correctly, then what you get with manual can be done with the offset method. it's just a matter of testing it out.
Click to expand...

+1 for what munaim1 said. I have a very stable OC system (18+ hour OC in Prime95 blend, 10 iterations of Intel Burn Test, and also [email protected] 24 hours+ stable on advanced science) and I'm using Intel Speed Step so that my core frequencies are between 1.6 GHz (min) and 4.7 / 4.8 GHz (max) with my voltages between 0.976 V (min) and 1.352 / 1.400 V (max). I'm not yet 100% decided on keeping the 4.8 OC or going back to the 4.7 OC but both are working great with speedstep auto-voltages and the +0.025V offset.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Overwrite them with stock settings? I actually never saw a way to delete them myself either. I just overwrote them.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, for some reason i didnt think of this
Click to expand...

You're welcome.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tradio*
> 
> just a got a new Asus p8z68-v PRO mobo. I have an 120 GB SSD connected to the WHITE 6 GB sata port and 2 Western Digital HDDs (700 GB, 1TB respectively) connected to the LIGHT BLUE 3GB sata ports. I installed win 7 x64 on my SSD and it went fine. After that I connected both of my HDDs and now the computer hangs at the ASUS logo screen, wont boot into bios or windows - just hangs at the logo. In the BIOS, i have ACHI mode enabled and every HOT PLUG settings is set to ENABLED. So then I just tried plugging one of the HDDs (while leaving the SSD plugged in as well) I found out that the computer will when ONLY the 700 GB HDD is attached, but when I plug in the 1 TB hdd, the computer will boot past the logo. So I let the machine boot into windows with just the SSD attached. And then I connected both HDDs and windows recognized both and I was able to use both. So its a weird thing, ASUS bios wont boot or recognize my 1 TB drive but after i let it boot to windows, both HDDs work fine. All sata ports are working fine, i tested them. What could this be? Is there any BIOS setting I am not enabling? Only the 1 TB hdd is giving me issues, the 700GB works fine. anyone have any ideas what could be the problem?
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest reserving the SATA3 ports controlled by Z68 for SSDs and try to stay from the Marvell ports until you have to use them. Mechanical drives can't make use of SATA3 speeds so it's best to just use them with the SATA2 ports.
Click to expand...

I have a question for you about the Marvell controllers. I'm using a SATA 1.0 (1.5 GB/sec) optical drive (LITE-ON LH-20A1L-05) and a SATA 3.0 (6 GB/sec) HDD (WD2002FAEX). I'm not using a SSD nor am I using any other SATA devices. I'm using an Asus P8P67 WS Revolution motherboard, so I have a total of 4 SATA 2.0 (3 GB/s) and 4 SATA 3.0 (6 GB/s) ports. (There are two Intel and two Marvell for the SATA 3.0 ports.) I have the HDD on the Intel 6.0 GB/s port 1 and I have the optical drive on the Intel SATA 3.0 GB/s port.

Since I do have a SATA 3.0 (6 GB/s) HDD and Windows is already installed on it, with updated drivers, would it be better for me to disable the Marvell controller and run the HDD off of the Intel controller or would it be better for me to use the Marvell controller? I know that the Marvell controller does slow down boot times a little bit, since there is the Marvell BIOS loading screen but is there any advantage to using it over the Intel one?

I don't see any services or active processes associated with the Marvell controllers on my system but I do have the Marvell 91xx SATA 6G Controller and the Marvell RAID Console drivers installed and the pair of Storage Controllers is enabled. Is the Intel controller better than the Marvell controller? Why does my motherboard have a Marvell controller anyhow?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> I have a question for you about the Marvell controllers. I'm using a SATA 1.0 (1.5 GB/sec) optical drive (LITE-ON LH-20A1L-05) and a SATA 3.0 (6 GB/sec) HDD (WD2002FAEX). I'm not using a SSD nor am I using any other SATA devices. I'm using an Asus P8P67 WS Revolution motherboard, so I have a total of 4 SATA 2.0 (3 GB/s) and 4 SATA 3.0 (6 GB/s) ports. (There are two Intel and two Marvell for the SATA 3.0 ports.) I have the HDD on the Intel 6.0 GB/s port 1 and I have the optical drive on the Intel SATA 3.0 GB/s port.
> 
> Since I do have a SATA 3.0 (6 GB/s) HDD and Windows is already installed on it, with updated drivers, would it be better for me to disable the Marvell controller and run the HDD off of the Intel controller or would it be better for me to use the Marvell controller? I know that the Marvell controller does slow down boot times a little bit, since there is the Marvell BIOS loading screen but is there any advantage to using it over the Intel one?
> 
> I don't see any services or active processes associated with the Marvell controllers on my system but I do have the Marvell 91xx SATA 6G Controller and the Marvell RAID Console drivers installed and the pair of Storage Controllers is enabled. Is the Intel controller better than the Marvell controller? Why does my motherboard have a Marvell controller anyhow?


I would use the Intel ports and disable the marvel ports. There is a distinct difference in performance largely due to the fact that the Intel ports are native to the chip set vs a discrete chip that runs the marvel controller or jmicron for that matter. Not only are the marvel ports a marketing gimmick but for those who need the additional ports they are essential, because the Z68 chip set is maxed out at the 4 Sata II and 2 Sata III ports it's the only way to have additional ports on this platform.
Also I would unload the windows marvel driver and controller software to reduce unneeded overhead it is running and using resources whether you found it or not.


----------



## jagg111

Does anyone know what the differences are between the P8Z68 Gen3 Pro and Deluxe? I am looking to pick one up this week and want to know if the price difference is worth it.

As far as I can see the differences are the audio chipset, dual LAN, and a few more USB ports.

http://bit.ly/vLOitT


----------



## munaim1

What's happened to this thread? It use to be a lot more active.

Turrican?? TwoCables???


----------



## eternal7trance

Could be all the people that used to check it on tapatalk. They can't use this forum.


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *`danny*
> 
> After a day or so of use I noticed an annoying issue that seems to be plaguing other P8Z68 users. When I put the system to sleep or hibernate it goes down properly but for some reason I cannot wake it back up with a keyboard or mouse. When I press the power button on the front of the case the fans and everything turn on (monitor stays asleep) for a few seconds and then the system again goes to sleep. It will then wake and sleep repeatedly until I pull the power on the system and cold boot it. I have tried disabling the PLL overvoltage option in the EFI Bios however that has not helped at all. My P8Z68 board is a GEN 3 Deluxe with the latest stable UEFI version (0301). Anybody else on this site experience this and know of any fixes or workarounds?


I had this happen on my P8Z68V-Pro and fixed it by updating the BIOS. I'm pretty sure that it was fixed with the 0706 BIOS version and I recommend people updating to this version as 0902 causes my BIOS to read CPU temps 10 degrees colder than they actually are and some lights on my mobo stay on when the PC shuts down. I don't know if 0706 has these issues but 0902 sure does, though both fix the issue with being unable to wake your PC.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey guys ...

I just wanted to know how the Power Phases on the P8P67 Deluxe compare to the Extreme IV \ Extreme-Z as the ROG series has significantly less power phases ...

Could someone explain ??

All information greatly appreciated ...

Kind Regards.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey guys ...
> I just wanted to know how the Power Phases on the P8P67 Deluxe compare to the Extreme IV \ Extreme-Z as the ROG series has significantly less power phases ...
> Could someone explain ??
> All information greatly appreciated ...
> Kind Regards.


From what I have heard you need max 2 phases for each core so I see no problems with MIVE as it's 8+2


----------



## capflamme

Hello everyone!

Here is my system:

p8p67 evo
i7 2600k
ati radeon hd6950
2x4Gb corsair vangeance 1866Mhz 9-10-9-27 @1.5V = X.M.P
Thermaltake Toughpower
775 Watt

Today I was playing with OC under asusV evo:

BCLK: 106 MHz
turbo multiplier: 46x
Vcore: 1.37
all the other voltages at stock.
in the end:
cpu @ 4876MHz
[email protected]
The Vcard was at stock for voltages (1V) and core and mem freq.

so all in all a mind overclocking.

prime95 was stable for 1 hour without error, memtest86+ also. cpu temp was aroud 76°C and cores 78-88°C under full load. motherboard temp <30°C.
Then I tried a graphical benchmarch software which I don't remember the name at the moment (the one with a village with a dragon statue on an island in the air) to test another aspect of stabiltiy.
During the test the CPU multiplier stayed at idle (16x), so no big temp or load on the CPU, but after 30sec or so the PC shut down without any obvious reason, no automatic restart.
When I tried to start it by pressing the power button on the case, I could ear the fans run for a fraction of a second then nothing. Second attempt nothing at all not even the noise of the fans.
I switched the PSU off, waited, switched on and power on: same thing, the fans just start to turn a bit then stop. Second attempt, nothing at all.
I opened the case, re-switch off and on the PSU. Power on from the MB: Just a quarter of a turn from the fans. No CPU/DIMM/VGA/BOOT LEDs light up at all on the MB.
I removed the Vcard, the MB battery, cleared the CMOS several time, removed all the power cord except the ones that power the MB and it still the same, just the CPU fan turnning not even for a complete revolution.
The PSU looks okay the alimentation led is on.

I will try to power on the MB when I remove what is left on it (CPU and MEM).
What LED should light up first? the CPU one?
Do you thing I fried my MB? I don't really see what went wrong, I didn't do extreme overclocking and I was not even stressing the CPU when it happened.
So to me the problem come from the MB or the PSU, but I don't have any spare of these two to test.
What would be your guess?

Thanx for your answer ans sorry if it's not post in the good section.









EDIT: I removed the RAM. It doesn't change anything.
I checked the PSU with a multimeter by shorting green wire with a black on on the ATX power cord. As far as I can tell, the PSU is providing good voltages on the ATX and CPU power cord, but it's not underload, so it's not a proof that it's working proprely.
If I remove the powercord for the CPU (the 8 pin molex), the MB start and obvisouly throw a CPU led at me, as it's not powered.
Last thing: I removed the CPU and nothing at all happen, when I put the power. Is it normal, or the MB should start and light up the CPU led?
So now I doubt even more, maybe it's something wrong with the MB related to the CPU, maybe it's the CPU or the PSU that can not supply enough current to the CPU.

EDIT2: The PSU seems fine. The CPU powercord is able to light up a 20W halogen bulb, so the problem must be between the MB and CPU...how can I now which one is bad? I don't have any spare part for this...

Any input?


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capflamme*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> Here is my system:
> p8p67 evo
> i7 2600k
> ati radeon hd6950
> 2x4Gb corsair vangeance 1866Mhz 9-10-9-27 @1.5V = X.M.P
> Thermaltake Toughpower
> 775 Watt
> Today I was playing with OC under asusV evo:
> BCLK: 106 MHz
> turbo multiplier: 46x
> Vcore: 1.37
> all the other voltages at stock.
> in the end:
> cpu @ 4876MHz
> [email protected]
> The Vcard was at stock for voltages (1V) and core and mem freq.
> so all in all a mind overclocking.
> prime95 was stable for 1 hour without error, memtest86+ also. cpu temp was aroud 76°C and cores 78-88°C under full load. motherboard temp <30°C.
> Then I tried a graphical benchmarch software which I don't remember the name at the moment (the one with a village with a dragon statue on an island in the air) to test another aspect of stabiltiy.
> During the test the CPU multiplier stayed at idle (16x), so no big temp or load on the CPU, but after 30sec or so the PC shut down without any obvious reason, no automatic restart.
> When I tried to start it by pressing the power button on the case, I could ear the fans run for a fraction of a second then nothing. Second attempt nothing at all not even the noise of the fans.
> I switched the PSU off, waited, switched on and power on: same thing, the fans just start to turn a bit then stop. Second attempt, nothing at all.
> I opened the case, re-switch off and on the PSU. Power on from the MB: Just a quarter of a turn from the fans. No CPU/DIMM/VGA/BOOT LEDs light up at all on the MB.
> I removed the Vcard, the MB battery, cleared the CMOS several time, removed all the power cord except the ones that power the MB and it still the same, just the CPU fan turnning not even for a complete revolution.
> The PSU looks okay the alimentation led is on.
> I will try to power on the MB when I remove what is left on it (CPU and MEM).
> What LED should light up first? the CPU one?
> Do you thing I fried my MB? I don't really see what went wrong, I didn't do extreme overclocking and I was not even stressing the CPU when it happened.
> So to me the problem come from the MB or the PSU, but I don't have any spare of these two to test.
> What would be your guess?
> Thanx for your answer ans sorry if it's not post in the good section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I removed the RAM. It doesn't change anything.
> I checked the PSU with a multimeter by shorting green wire with a black on on the ATX power cord. As far as I can tell, the PSU is providing good voltages on the ATX and CPU power cord, but it's not underload, so it's not a proof that it's working proprely.
> If I remove the powercord for the CPU (the 8 pin molex), the MB start and obvisouly throw a CPU led at me, as it's not powered.
> Last thing: I removed the CPU and nothing at all happen, when I put the power. Is it normal, or the MB should start and light up the CPU led?
> So now I doubt even more, maybe it's something wrong with the MB related to the CPU, maybe it's the CPU or the PSU that can not supply enough current to the CPU.
> Any input?


Does your MB gives an error code? I dropped my CPU on the connector and some contact springs were badly plied which I didn't remark when I placed the CPU back. At startup the fans were running at full speed for a few seconds and were going to a "quite" regime, the Q-code was displaying "00" but nothing else was going on. The CPU refused to run due (a) bad ? or/and missing ? voltage level(s) or/and short circuit(s) ? of connections . In any case leds, the stop and reset button on the MB and the Q-code leds were lighting up. Later on when I replaced the MB, nothing seemes to be bad with the CPU.

hmar


----------



## pross

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone has tried the 402 bios here ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z68-V_PRO_GEN3/P8Z68-V-PRO-GEN3-ASUS-0402.zip is there a changelog anywhere and is it stable?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I would use the Intel ports and disable the marvel ports. There is a distinct difference in performance largely due to the fact that the Intel ports are native to the chip set vs a discrete chip that runs the marvel controller or jmicron for that matter. Not only are the marvel ports a marketing gimmick but for those who need the additional ports they are essential, because the Z68 chip set is maxed out at the 4 Sata II and 2 Sata III ports it's the only way to have additional ports on this platform.
> Also I would unload the windows marvel driver and controller software to reduce unneeded overhead it is running and using resources whether you found it or not.


Thanks. I've been using the Intel ports since day one, since I assumed that Intel ports on an Intel chipset board would be superior to Marvell controllers for the reason you mentioned. What I was not aware of was the Z68 chip maxing out at 6 ports. (I'm on a P68 board, but I guess the same applies.)

I've disabled the Marvell controller in the BIOS and I've noticed slightly faster boot times. I'll remove the Marvell driver and uninstall the Marvell software, then clean my registry out. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## capflamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmar*
> 
> Does your MB gives an error code?


the p8p67 evo doesn't have this feature. The CPU socket is fine from what I can see. I've tried to remove and put back the CPU a few times during my troubleshooting...with no luck.
Are the MB and PSU suppose to power on if there is no CPU installed on the MB ???
Because nothing happens on mine when I try this, but if the CPU is in position and I remove the 12V ATX CPU powercord, then the MB start and light the CPU led.

I've edited my previous mesage to update what I looked at.

Thx for the reply.


----------



## kevindd992002

What is the difference between these two fields (Boot Option Priority and Hard Disk BSS Priority) in a P8Z68-V/GEN3 BIOS/UEFI?

I see that you can set the boot prioirity in both but which is far more important?


----------



## ade42

Gday

I built my system a few months ago, all was good, everything worked fine!
Well today i was in bios changing the boot sequence as I never really set that up and was lazy and it was always not booting without me pressing F8 on each boot. Ok so I changed that and saved/boot and nothing, No Post beep, now on this board you have to wait some 10-40 seconds to hear the post beep, But now no beep and no signal out of GFX what so ever.

Ok so what have I done to attept to fix this?

Moved the Ram into each slot and tried every configuratuon.

Taken all cards out (including GFX) and tried Ram 'swapping' on a completly empty system

Disconnected all drives/media while doing the above

Tried 3 alt power supplies.

Took out the CPU and put it back in (why not)

disconnected Keyboard/mouse and all usb devices.

Turned the system on while pressing the 'MEMOK' swicth.

Tried the various MB switches in all positions

Ok so in my thinking ive not left anything out...

So what the hell could it be?

What I have if this helps (prob not)

Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 16G (4x4GB) DDR3
Asus GTX 570 PCI-E 2.0 1280MB DDR5 2x Dual-Link DVI 1x mini HDMI Fan
Intel Core i7 2600K Processor LGA1155 3.4GHz CPU
Asus P8P67V3 P67 4DDR3 D12PH 2400OC RAID GLAN PCIE16 2FW SA3 ATX STEP3
Antec ATX TruePower 750W

Thats all you really need to know, as its not the HDD or anything else!


----------



## capflamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ade42*
> 
> So what the hell could it be?


You didn't mention you try to clear the CMOS. did U?
You might give it a try by moving the appropriate jumpers (user manual) or pushing the clear CMOS button on the back panel if your board has one. Alternatively, you can also remove the battery from the MB and the powerplug for a few minutes.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ade42*
> 
> Gday
> 
> I built my system a few months ago, all was good, everything worked fine!
> Well today i was in bios changing the boot sequence as I never really set that up and was lazy and it was always not booting without me pressing F8 on each boot. Ok so I changed that and saved/boot and nothing, No Post beep, now on this board you have to wait some 10-40 seconds to hear the post beep, But now no beep and no signal out of GFX what so ever.
> 
> Ok so what have I done to attept to fix this?
> 
> Moved the Ram into each slot and tried every configuratuon.
> 
> Taken all cards out (including GFX) and tried Ram 'swapping' on a completly empty system
> 
> Disconnected all drives/media while doing the above
> 
> Tried 3 alt power supplies.
> 
> Took out the CPU and put it back in (why not)
> 
> disconnected Keyboard/mouse and all usb devices.
> 
> Turned the system on while pressing the 'MEMOK' swicth.
> 
> Tried the various MB switches in all positions
> 
> Ok so in my thinking ive not left anything out...
> 
> So what the hell could it be?
> 
> What I have if this helps (prob not)
> 
> Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 16G (4x4GB) DDR3
> Asus GTX 570 PCI-E 2.0 1280MB DDR5 2x Dual-Link DVI 1x mini HDMI Fan
> Intel Core i7 2600K Processor LGA1155 3.4GHz CPU
> Asus P8P67V3 P67 4DDR3 D12PH 2400OC RAID GLAN PCIE16 2FW SA3 ATX STEP3
> Antec ATX TruePower 750W
> 
> Thats all you really need to know, as its not the HDD or anything else!


If I've read correctly and understand what you ask this is a known issue when the Marvel controller is enabled which is notorious for extending the boot time as it seeks a bootable drive. If not needed I recommend disabling the jmicron & marvel ports. If you run out of ports and have the need for more use optical drives only on the marvel ports but you may still have slower boots your best bet is to trim your system to stay within the native ports. I even go so far as to disable all harddrives and optical drives as boot devices from the boot menu in the UEFI bios except the one I want to boot to. There are two places that need changes made boot order and boot devices so address both area then save and exit. There is one other area that needs to be changed go into UEFI bios (Advanced Mode) to the Advanced tab scroll down to APM and open then scroll dwn to Power on by PCIe, enable it and save and exit. This should correct your troubles. GL


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> There is one other area that needs to be changed go into UEFI bios (Advanced Mode) to the Advanced tab scroll down to APM and open then scroll dwn to Power on by PCIe, enable it and save and exit. This should correct your troubles. GL


Can you explain why you do this please? I'm curious and I'd like to know!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> There is one other area that needs to be changed go into UEFI bios (Advanced Mode) to the Advanced tab scroll down to APM and open then scroll dwn to Power on by PCIe, enable it and save and exit. This should correct your troubles. GL
> 
> 
> 
> Can you explain why you do this please? I'm curious and I'd like to know!
Click to expand...

No I'm not sure exactly why this works but it does on certain boards. It may not even be available with his P67. Why it is not default may lie in the fact that these procs have a GPU built in and some board have the ability to utilize this feature so it all depends on your setup/motherboard. These are complex boards that are geared for mutli use scenarios but that not unusal what remains constant is we all need to enabling and disable features and anything not need ie 1394 etc should be disabled if fast boots are your end game. Setting the PCIe to enabled lessens the confusion as the PC boots and I've been setting this as a tweak since NF2 chipset when we used PCI and or PCIe GPUs for the same reason. Selecting the correct device lessons the time it takes for the bios to decide for you I liken this to using Auto vs Manual the latter which is best.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> There is one other area that needs to be changed go into UEFI bios (Advanced Mode) to the Advanced tab scroll down to APM and open then scroll dwn to Power on by PCIe, enable it and save and exit. This should correct your troubles. GL
> 
> 
> 
> Can you explain why you do this please? I'm curious and I'd like to know!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No I'm not sure exactly why this works but it does on certain boards. It may not even be available with his P67. Why it is not default may lie in the fact that these procs have a GPU built in and some board have the ability to utilize this feature so it all depends on your setup/motherboard. These are complex boards that are geared for mutli use scenarios but that not unusal what remains constant is we all need to enabling and disable features and anything not need ie 1394 etc should be disabled if fast boots are your end game. Setting the PCIe to enabled lessens the confusion as the PC boots and I've been setting this as a tweak since NF2 chipset when we used PCI and or PCIe GPUs for the same reason. Selecting the correct device lessons the time it takes for the bios to decide for you I liken this to using Auto vs Manual the latter which is best.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I wonder if this is the source of the hardware issues I had when I was trying to get Ubuntu 11.10 to install.

(Note that it installed beautifully in my VMWare Player and I am running it inside of a Virtual Machine quite easily. It would flat-out hang after initializing USB devices. I also suspect that it may be the Intel SATA III controller. (Marvell is disabled.))

I'll go back and disable 1394, since I'm not using 1394. I haven't had any problems with having Power on by PCIe in whatever the default setting was but I'll experiment with it.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> No I'm not sure exactly why this works but it does on certain boards. It may not even be available with his P67. Why it is not default may lie in the fact that these procs have a GPU built in and some board have the ability to utilize this feature so it all depends on your setup/motherboard. These are complex boards that are geared for mutli use scenarios but that not unusal what remains constant is we all need to enabling and disable features and anything not need ie 1394 etc should be disabled if fast boots are your end game. Setting the PCIe to enabled lessens the confusion as the PC boots and I've been setting this as a tweak since NF2 chipset when we used PCI and or PCIe GPUs for the same reason. Selecting the correct device lessons the time it takes for the bios to decide for you I liken this to using Auto vs Manual the latter which is best.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the OP (ade42) say the board wouldn't even POST? You have to POST before you can get to the BIOS, right?

edit to id the op referred to.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the OP say the board wouldn't even POST? You have to POST before you can get to the BIOS, right?


Well, not the OP, but yeah, the guy with that problem couldn't get it to post. I just got sidetracked asking about the Marvell Controller and the PCIe on wake when owcraftsman mentioned it.

For the fellow with the board that appears to be unresponsive:

Check all cards tightly fitted, clear CMOS, pull battery, wait 3 minutes, clear CMOS again, POST.

It should be about that simple. If it still won't post, RMA the board.


----------



## elbubi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pross*
> 
> Hi all,
> Just wondering if anyone has tried the 402 bios here ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z68-V_PRO_GEN3/P8Z68-V-PRO-GEN3-ASUS-0402.zip is there a changelog anywhere and is it stable?


P8Z68-V-PRO-GEN3 BIOS 0402
1. Improve system stability
2. Support new CPUs


----------



## EmeraldICE

Just got my P8Z68/GEN3 this afternoon!! Such a sexy board.















Not building my new rig until the end of this month though, so all I can do is sit and look at it for now.


----------



## dartuil

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68V_LX/

Hello Im here to ask if someone have it or know if its a good board i need something not too expensive just too put a little cor i3 2300 or 2130.

Thx


----------



## BWG

Wow!

Subbed and read later when I have time!


----------



## iLLGT3

ONCE AGAIN, my ASUS P8P67 burns up and shoots flames just behind the 3rd memory slot IN THE SAME EXACT PLACE AS MY LAST ONE and the same build as before. I turned on my PC and bam. I'm done with this. I sucked it up last time and purchased an identical 3.0 revision thinking that maybe I had a bad board but no, clearly this seems to be a small trend with these. I'm not the only one who has had this problem.


----------



## dartuil

you right you're not the only one ...
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038055675
http://forums.hexus.net/motherboards/211245-asus-p8p67-pro-caught-fire.html

how asus cant let that happen these obo cost more than 100$


----------



## iLLGT3

I've had those bookmarked for awhile. I'm going to use them as proof this time around when I speak to them tomorrow. There is no reason for this.


----------



## afkingjay

hey, id like to join this club

p8p67 pro rev 3.1 owner


----------



## ade42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If I've read correctly and understand what you ask this is a known issue when the Marvel controller is enabled which is notorious for extending the boot time as it seeks a bootable drive. If not needed I recommend disabling the jmicron & marvel ports. If you run out of ports and have the need for more use optical drives only on the marvel ports but you may still have slower boots your best bet is to trim your system to stay within the native ports. I even go so far as to disable all harddrives and optical drives as boot devices from the boot menu in the UEFI bios except the one I want to boot to. There are two places that need changes made boot order and boot devices so address both area then save and exit. There is one other area that needs to be changed go into UEFI bios (Advanced Mode) to the Advanced tab scroll down to APM and open then scroll dwn to Power on by PCIe, enable it and save and exit. This should correct your troubles. GL


I can't get into bios whatsoever, Ive even left the system on for around 1hr (about 4 times) just too see, bnut no joy, nothing on screen, no boot beep, nothing..
Have cleared the cmos sevral timeas and shorted the battery too.
Id say its not this problem you are mentioning, I hate the marvel controller and at one stage had it disabled but its not the issue here unfortatly.

I 'breadboarded' (that what you kids call it today im told) the system, had nothing but the cpu in it and gone from there, everything powers up fine the MB not showing any errors, and it's only the standard board so no flashy error code displays, But it dosent do the double boot anymore, and it did that every boot, so that's prob a big hint rioght there.

I have taken the board back and will have to find a replacement as the wait time for ASUS is around 4-8 weeks, which kinda sucks....


----------



## dartuil

yes use this so they give you a new mobo i cant see how this mobo cant handle a 2500k
im starting to think asus mobo lost in quality


----------



## HiLuckyB

Here is my P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3










Can someone help me out with a working sig link? Alot of them seem to be bad after the website upgrade


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> Can someone help me out with a working sig link? Alot of them seem to be bad after the website upgrade


sure thing: try this one:

Code:



Code:


[center][b][URL="http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/916189-official-intel-p67-sandy-bridge-motherboard.html"]✰OCN's Official P6x OC Results[/URL] ✰[/b][/center]

Which will look like this:
*✰OCN's Official P6x OC Results ✰*

Except it will not do red colors in your sig.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> sure thing: try this one:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [center][b][URL="http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/916189-official-intel-p67-sandy-bridge-motherboard.html"]✰OCN's Official P6x OC Results[/URL] ✰[/b][/center]
> 
> Which will look like this:
> *✰OCN's Official P6x OC Results ✰*
> Except it will not do red colors in your sig.


Im trying to get a link working for this club but I can't get one to work, Unless im missing it somewhere


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> Im trying to get a link working for this club but I can't get one to work, Unless im missing it somewhere


I'm not sure if there is an "official" signature for this club. I don't see one in the OP's sig.

Found it:

Code:



Code:


[center][b][b][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/showthread.php?s=bd8d1313c09af4210eda3f9b5ad8a046&t=1012874]
>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>[/URL][/b][/center]

Which looks like this:
*
>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>*


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> I'm not sure if there is an "official" signature for this club. I don't see one in the OP's sig.
> Found it:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [center][b][b][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/showthread.php?s=bd8d1313c09af4210eda3f9b5ad8a046&t=1012874]
> >>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>[/URL][/b][/center]
> 
> Which looks like this:
> *
> >>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 Series Owners Club>>*


Thanks for finding it


----------



## capflamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*
> 
> ONCE AGAIN, my ASUS P8P67 burns up and shoots flames just behind the 3rd memory slot IN THE SAME EXACT PLACE AS MY LAST ONE and the same build as before.


Mine didn't exactly burned into flames, but it looks like it perspired a little bit...











What U think, toasted ?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*
> 
> ONCE AGAIN, my ASUS P8P67 burns up and shoots flames just behind the 3rd memory slot IN THE SAME EXACT PLACE AS MY LAST ONE and the same build as before. I turned on my PC and bam. I'm done with this. I sucked it up last time and purchased an identical 3.0 revision thinking that maybe I had a bad board but no, clearly this seems to be a small trend with these. I'm not the only one who has had this problem.


WOW again???!!!

Are you sure it's not something else? have you checked your PSU with a multimeter?


----------



## iLLGT3

It's apparently a memory problem. From what I've read and see from others' photos I would assume...

I'm thinking of getting a Sabertooth.. I will more than likely not buy another P8P67.


----------



## Overclockname

HI all,

Apologize if this has been asked/answered here already but this thread is 500+ pages long and for some reason this site is running reeeeeally slow on my old computer lately. (I would blame my computer before anythng else.....7.5 years old)

Just received my Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 today..

First thing I noticed was the box is not sealed in any way, and the static bag does not have any tape sealing it up either. All accessories are present and sealed. Should I be concerned it is a returned product or is it normal for the Asus box and bag to not be sealed?

Thanks


----------



## Aesir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclockname*
> 
> HI all,
> Apologize if this has been asked/answered here already but this thread is 500+ pages long and for some reason this site is running reeeeeally slow on my old computer lately. (I would blame my computer before anythng else.....7.5 years old)
> Just received my Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 today..
> First thing I noticed was the box is not sealed in any way, and the static bag does not have any tape sealing it up either. All accessories are present and sealed. Should I be concerned it is a returned product or is it normal for the Asus box and bag to not be sealed?
> Thanks


Mine came like that, and my Dad's board was the same way.

Also I just got this P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 a couple days ago so you can add me to the list!

My proof:


----------



## EmeraldICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclockname*
> 
> HI all,
> Apologize if this has been asked/answered here already but this thread is 500+ pages long and for some reason this site is running reeeeeally slow on my old computer lately. (I would blame my computer before anythng else.....7.5 years old)
> Just received my Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 today..
> First thing I noticed was the box is not sealed in any way, and the static bag does not have any tape sealing it up either. All accessories are present and sealed. Should I be concerned it is a returned product or is it normal for the Asus box and bag to not be sealed?
> Thanks


That's normal!







Mine just came yesterday and it was like that. All the other boards I've bought have been like that as well.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*
> 
> It's apparently a memory problem. From what I've read and see from others' photos I would assume...
> I'm thinking of getting a Sabertooth.. I will more than likely not buy another P8P67.


Memory problem? Care to link me to a couple threads so I could read up on it.

*I've ordered ton's of these boards, some of them where DOA or died unexpectedly but never caught fire or blew.
*
Did you use the same memory for all three mobo's? did you check the PSU? have you ever tried running it caseless?


----------



## iXAirCor325Xi

i guess now if i get the p8p67 3.1rev it will burst into flames now. I am worried about getting it


----------



## dartuil

asus get flames and gigabyte p67 get boot loop :/


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capflamme*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*
> 
> ONCE AGAIN, my ASUS P8P67 burns up and shoots flames just behind the 3rd memory slot IN THE SAME EXACT PLACE AS MY LAST ONE and the same build as before.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine didn't exactly burned into flames, but it looks like it perspired a little bit...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What U think, toasted ?
Click to expand...

Not sure if this could be the cause but this has caught me and fortunately I caught it in time but I did boot to windows before I discovered it and was able to shut down quickly get in to bios and make needed adjustments. This happened to me when making a change to the offset voltage forgetting to save and exit (F10) my Vcore shot up to 2.12v. You absolutley must pay close attention when making changes I use Aida Extreme's OSD which starts w/windows. If not certainly the PSU is suspect I would take it to a local shop for some thorough testing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by munaim1;13469291
> I think you should add this to the op. Handy peiece of info from my thread
> IMPORTANT INFO FOR ASUS P67 MOBO USERS
> 
> The member quoted below killed his sb chip through a bug in Asus's bios. It is apparent that switching between profiles mainly offset and manual) the voltage does somewhat get altered. As pointed out, this bug is very dangerous and I do always recommend checking settings before applying but nevertheless this bug should be a top priority for asus.
> 
> Here is the link to the actual thread. LINK


----------



## Mackem

I am worried now, I was going to buy the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1.


----------



## iXAirCor325Xi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> I am worried now, I was going to buy the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1.


i feel the same way not. I don't think this is wide spread. Also sometimes it can be human error which it is not on here but other people i saw online it was caused by human error


----------



## Mackem

Yeah, probably just gonna get the P8Z68-V/GEN3 on Monday along with my 2500K then all the parts are here! Your sig rig is extremely similar to mine; Got any tips on cable management with the 400R and tips for installing the Hyper 212 (I have the EVO but still). I was wondering just trivial stuff like should I install the backplate inside/outside the case, same goes for cooler etc.


----------



## iXAirCor325Xi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> Yeah, probably just gonna get the P8Z68-V/GEN3 on Monday along with my 2500K then all the parts are here! Your sig rig is extremely similar to mine; Got any tips on cable management with the 400R and tips for installing the Hyper 212 (I have the EVO but still). I was wondering just trivial stuff like should I install the backplate inside/outside the case, same goes for cooler etc.


with the corsair 400r the hole for the backplate is huge so just make sure u have the standoffs in right and nothing touching the board in the back that can cause problems and u will be able to put the cpu cooler on in the case


----------



## speedlever

I just built a 400r and the stand-offs were integral to the case. Personally, I would build the board outside the case, but this case has a lot of room to work with.


----------



## iXAirCor325Xi

the only integral part is the top other then that a pair of pliers will do. If the stuff u bought has already worked then do inside case if the stuff is all brand new i suggest like above to do outside. I can always do inside case because well my corsair 400R is modded with removeable Motherboard tray


----------



## boooboo

I would like to join the club. Can you add me please?
Thanks


----------



## chillar15

Does anyone have a definite answer as to whether a Thermalright Silver Arrow will allow me to use all 4 memory slots on my setup? Concerned that the hear spreader on the Corsair Vengeance is too tall to use with the Silver Arrow.

Intel 2600k
Asus P8Z68-v Pro/Gen 3
4x 4GB Corsair Vengeance
Cooler Master Stacker 830
2x GTX 560 Ti 1GB

Sorry if this has been answered before..researching and ordering my new rig from my phone since I haven't had power in almost 72 hours because of the wind storm in Socal.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillar15*
> 
> Does anyone have a definite answer as to whether a Thermalright Silver Arrow will allow me to use all 4 memory slots on my setup? Concerned that the hear spreader on the Corsair Vengeance is too tall to use with the Silver Arrow.
> 
> Intel 2600k
> Asus P8Z68-v Pro/Gen 3
> 4x 4GB Corsair Vengeance
> Cooler Master Stacker 830
> 2x GTX 560 Ti 1GB
> 
> Sorry if this has been answered before..researching and ordering my new rig from my phone since I haven't had power in almost 72 hours because of the wind storm in Socal.


The vengeance DIMM are notoriously tall. You may run into clearance issues. I suggest sending an e-mail to Thermalright and asking them specifically. From what I read in the documentation, you shouldn't have a problem with most RAM and that cooler. (The Venemous-X RT that I have does have clearance issues with some RAM like the Vengeance, but not others, like the Ripjaws from G.Skill.)

I'd phone the company.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boooboo*
> 
> I would like to join the club. Can you add me please?
> Thanks


I believe the OP has dropped out disturbed about the changes made with the forum. Not sure why that would be a problem and seems a bit childish, to me, but it is what it is. A forum moderator could take this over easily but as yet we have not seen this happen. You are not the first to request membership to fall on deaf ears. For the moment those of us that have hung in here welcome you. Don't hesitate to ask a question if you have one. If we don't know immediately we will figure it out together. IMHO WELCOME


----------



## speedlever

I have an odd problem with the new SB build running Win7/64. This replaced a Conroe system (E6600 on an Asus P5B-E). I built up the SB and did a plug and play HW install. It's worked pretty well thus far without having to reinstall Win7.

That being said, I have a Garmin Edge 305 (for cycling) that, when I plug it into a USB (rear) 2.0 port to d/l the data, it BSODs the computer pointing to a file named grmnusb.sys. It did not do this on the Conroe system. It BSODS about 80% of the time, if not more... which is to say not every time, but almost every time it will BSOD.

Any of you seen this behavior before?

I posted about this over on the Seven Forums and they told me the Garmin USB driver is not Win7/64 compatible. OTOH, Garmin says it is compatible... and my prior success running it on Win7/64 on the Conroe system is hard to deny.

My work around is to reboot the computer and connect the Edge in the process. If I shut down the computer, connect the Edge, then turn on the computer, it will BSOD and restart, then boot up ok and let me d/l the data. Weird that it survives a restart but not a cold boot.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Overclockname

Aesir and EmeraldICE: Thanks for the info. Glad to hear no sealing is normal.


----------



## Ahanasis

Hey men .

I have seen this question previously in this threat but no reply yet....

Will Thermalright Silver Arrow PWD fit the P8Z68/GEN3 Deluxe ??

Also do you recommend the Deluxe version over the P8Z68/GEN3 PRO ???

Thanks


----------



## boooboo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I believe the OP has dropped out disturbed about the changes made with the forum. Not sure why that would be a problem and seems a bit childish, to me, but it is what it is. A forum moderator could take this over easily but as yet we have not seen this happen. You are not the first to request membership to fall on deaf ears. For the moment those of us that have hung in here welcome you. Don't hesitate to ask a question if you have one. If we don't know immediately we will figure it out together. IMHO WELCOME


Well thanks anyway for the reply>


----------



## PROX1MI7Y

I've been reading through posts about the Marvel/JMicron Controllers but am still unsure about how to go about this. I have the P8Z68-V mobo

I've just installed a Samsung 830 SSD 64gb and clean installed etc. Im currently running that as my OS/Program drive and using my 1tb barracuda HDD as the data drive both connected to the sata III 6gb ports, with my optical drive connected to one of the 3gb/s sata slots. Should I still disable these controllers/ unload the drivers?

An additional annoyance I've been putting up with is the Splash Screen popping up twice whenever I restart/cold boot. Would doing the above resolve the issue?

Thanks ahead of time


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PROX1MI7Y*
> 
> I've been reading through posts about the Marvel/JMicron Controllers but am still unsure about how to go about this. I have the P8Z68-V mobo
> 
> I've just installed a Samsung 830 SSD 64gb and clean installed etc. Im currently running that as my OS/Program drive and using my 1tb barracuda HDD as the data drive both connected to the sata III 6gb ports, with my optical drive connected to one of the 3gb/s sata slots. Should I still disable these controllers/ unload the drivers?
> 
> An additional annoyance I've been putting up with is the Splash Screen popping up twice whenever I restart/cold boot. Would doing the above resolve the issue?
> 
> Thanks ahead of time


Sounds like all you need are the Intel ports based on the number of peripherals you mentioned and even the Sata II Intel ports are faster than the marvel Sata III ports so yes I would disable the Marvel ports in bios unload the drivers which will speed up your boot times.


----------



## PROX1MI7Y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Sounds like all you need are the Intel ports based on the number of peripherals you mentioned and even the Sata II Intel ports are faster than the marvel Sata III ports so yes I would disable the Marvel ports in bios unload the drivers which will speed up your boot times.


Thanks for the quick response! Will do so.

Will this resolve the dual splash screen at boot issue as well?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PROX1MI7Y*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Sounds like all you need are the Intel ports based on the number of peripherals you mentioned and even the Sata II Intel ports are faster than the marvel Sata III ports so yes I would disable the Marvel ports in bios unload the drivers which will speed up your boot times.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick response! Will do so.
> 
> Will this resolve the dual splash screen at boot issue as well?
Click to expand...

Yes it should if it is the marvel screen that is flashing by which it likely is.


----------



## MaStA819

I am following TwoCables settings on the original post exactly except I am running my 2500k at 4.6ghz (46 x 100).

I am able to use the negative offset voltage instead of positive. Currently I have it at - .04v and I am able to pass ten IBT tests at maximum stress level. The highest core voltage I see in CPU-Z is 1.336 v at full load which sounds good I guess. It just seems strange to me that I can take it negative in the offset voltage with being overclocked to 4.6 ghz when TwoCables uses + .04v to get to 4.8ghz. Is this normal?

I was running different settings that were stable, but I wasn't happy with my temps reaching 85C or so under full load with IBT. I noticed my voltage seemed a bit higher than I think it needed to be so I started reading this thread and came up with a way to lower my temps and still be stable (at least it seems so far).

I haven't been reading about computer stuff since I built this system so any input would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Jared


----------



## uniwarking

Hey guys, is it normal for the motherboard to show extreme temps? Like 123C? I have a P8P67 rev 3.1 board it it will display warnings fromt time to time... also shows in HWMonitor. Seems odd, don't think it's real.


----------



## PROX1MI7Y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes it should if it is the marvel screen that is flashing by which it likely is.


Thanks man + rep for you!


----------



## Tyreman

load line


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaStA819*
> 
> I am following TwoCables settings on the original post exactly except I am running my 2500k at 4.6ghz (46 x 100).
> I am able to use the negative offset voltage instead of positive. Currently I have it at - .04v and I am able to pass ten IBT tests at maximum stress level. The highest core voltage I see in CPU-Z is 1.336 v at full load which sounds good I guess. It just seems strange to me that I can take it negative in the offset voltage with being overclocked to 4.6 ghz when TwoCables uses + .04v to get to 4.8ghz. Is this normal?
> I was running different settings that were stable, but I wasn't happy with my temps reaching 85C or so under full load with IBT. I noticed my voltage seemed a bit higher than I think it needed to be so I started reading this thread and came up with a way to lower my temps and still be stable (at least it seems so far).
> I haven't been reading about computer stuff since I built this system so any input would be appreciated.
> Thank you,
> Jared


Depends on your settings
Using load line calibration
at max or high or reg?


----------



## MaStA819

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> Depends on your settings
> Using load line calibration
> at max or high or reg?


I am using the exact same settings as TwoCables on the original post of this thread other than mine is 46x100 and I am using the - .04v offset. So to answer your question my settings are like this.

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: -
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
DRAM Voltage: 1.5
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaStA819*
> 
> I am following TwoCables settings on the original post exactly except I am running my 2500k at 4.6ghz (46 x 100).
> 
> I am able to use the negative offset voltage instead of positive. Currently I have it at - .04v and I am able to pass ten IBT tests at maximum stress level. The highest core voltage I see in CPU-Z is 1.336 v at full load which sounds good I guess. It just seems strange to me that I can take it negative in the offset voltage with being overclocked to 4.6 ghz when TwoCables uses + .04v to get to 4.8ghz. Is this normal?
> 
> I was running different settings that were stable, but I wasn't happy with my temps reaching 85C or so under full load with IBT. I noticed my voltage seemed a bit higher than I think it needed to be so I started reading this thread and came up with a way to lower my temps and still be stable (at least it seems so far).
> 
> I haven't been reading about computer stuff since I built this system so any input would be appreciated.
> 
> Thank you,
> Jared


Note TwoCables setting CPU Current Capability: 140% if you are using this for the x46 multi it is no wonder you have higher than needed vCore try 130% for the lower clock and start from there. Lower voltage is always better and always depends on the proc it self. We all should try to tweak down our voltages and when templates are provided bare in mind they are only a starting points and your system will most certainly be different in what it actually needs for stability. Anything that end up less than what someone else needs is a plus and in the end means less heat, wear and tear on your system components. I'd also think you could run 1.65 VCCIO instead of the default 1.8v. Keep in mind here all the auto setting will likely be higher than actual required.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uniwarking*
> 
> Hey guys, is it normal for the motherboard to show extreme temps? Like 123C? I have a P8P67 rev 3.1 board it it will display warnings fromt time to time... also shows in HWMonitor. Seems odd, don't think it's real.


If you are speaking of the CPUTIN voltage from HWMonitor it is notorious for miss reporting however you would want to pay attention to the CPU Core Temps which normally report correctly. I just don't trust it when it already misreports stuff, I believe even Asus software (AISuite) misreports the same and I recommend not installing either on your system. I use Aida Extreme (paid ver) for monitoring and all reports accurately


----------



## Overclockname

Started my first build and hopefully this is newbie paranoia.........if not it's my first big mistake:

During installation of a cooler master hyper 212 EVO, the standoffs that the heat sink mounting bracket screws into turned slightly when I reached resistance on the screws. Thinking back they may have also turned a little when tightening the mounting plate nuts for the second time as I may not have adequately held the standoffs.

Consequently, as I am looking at where the bottom of the standoffs meet the top of the motherboard I am seeing a little white substance in places at the edge of standoffs. Touching it with a very small screwdriver I can move it and it has a "plasticky" feel to it. I am guessing it is some sort of coating from the motherboard that was roughed-up/scraped from the standoffs turning. I am hoping it is a coating from the bottom of the standoffs being squeezed out.

Is there concern for unwanted metal contact (bottom of standoff w/mobo) and shorting something out, or am I paranoid.....

Forgot to add its an Asus P8Z68-V pro/gen3


----------



## uniwarking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If you are speaking of the CPUTIN voltage from HWMonitor it is notorious for miss reporting however you would want to pay attention to the CPU Core Temps which normally report correctly. I just don't trust it when it already misreports stuff, I believe even Asus software (AISuite) misreports the same and I recommend not installing either on your system. I use Aida Extreme (paid ver) for monitoring and all reports accurately


Thanks for the response. Yes, I am seeing odd temps and fan speeds... which wasn't the case in the first week of ownership.

SYSTIN, CPUTIN, AUXTIN... all reporing 123C or 127C at random. Also, max RPM's on the fan speeds misreports at like 60,000 RPM and occasionally HWMonitor shows a fan that doesn't exist (at zero or around 30 RPM).

The only changes I've made since the build is installing the Asus Suite 2 software and installing a H100 cooler in place of a hyper 212+.

EDIT: Core temps are fine, looking at them in RealTemp at around 50C loaded (60 C intelburntest max).


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaStA819*
> 
> I am using the exact same settings as TwoCables on the original post of this thread other than mine is 46x100 and I am using the - .04v offset. So to answer your question my settings are like this.
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: -
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.5
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled


Try cpu current capability at 130%
Thats what I use


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uniwarking*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If you are speaking of the CPUTIN voltage from HWMonitor it is notorious for miss reporting however you would want to pay attention to the CPU Core Temps which normally report correctly. I just don't trust it when it already misreports stuff, I believe even Asus software (AISuite) misreports the same and I recommend not installing either on your system. I use Aida Extreme (paid ver) for monitoring and all reports accurately
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. Yes, I am seeing odd temps and fan speeds... which wasn't the case in the first week of ownership.
> 
> SYSTIN, CPUTIN, AUXTIN... all reporing 123C or 127C at random. Also, max RPM's on the fan speeds misreports at like 60,000 RPM and occasionally HWMonitor shows a fan that doesn't exist (at zero or around 30 RPM).
> 
> The only changes I've made since the build is installing the Asus Suite 2 software and installing a H100 cooler in place of a hyper 212+.
> 
> EDIT: Core temps are fine, looking at them in RealTemp at around 50C loaded (60 C intelburntest max).
Click to expand...

That's what I thought those temps are misreporting and notorious for making owners pull there hair out. I would ignore them. I forgot to mention the latest version of Real Temp and Core Temp report accurately on my V-pro B3 so they should work well as you have discovered for free software. I have found the AISuite 2 software buggie at best interfering with other software and in general not working. I recommend making changes to the bios manually and removing it from your system.


----------



## MaStA819

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Note TwoCables setting CPU Current Capability: 140% if you are using this for the x46 multi it is no wonder you have higher than needed vCore try 130% for the lower clock and start from there. Lower voltage is always better and always depends on the proc it self. We all should try to tweak down our voltages and when templates are provided bare in mind they are only a starting points and your system will most certainly be different in what it actually needs for stability. Anything that end up less than what someone else needs is a plus and in the end means less heat, wear and tear on your system components. I'd also think you could run 1.65 VCCIO instead of the default 1.8v. Keep in mind here all the auto setting will likely be higher than actual required.
> If you are speaking of the CPUTIN voltage from HWMonitor it is notorious for miss reporting however you would want to pay attention to the CPU Core Temps which normally report correctly. I just don't trust it when it already misreports stuff, I believe even Asus software (AISuite) misreports the same and I recommend not installing either on your system. I use Aida Extreme (paid ver) for monitoring and all reports accurately


Ok I set it to 130% and I still have the voltage at - .04v. Running IBT now at maximum to see how things turn out. Max volt I see in CPU-Z now is 1.336v still.

Should I try to lower the CPU Current Capability even more or leave it at 130% and keep lowering the offset voltage?

Also, I am from Cape Coral and graduated from Cape Coral High School in 2003. I'm in the Air Force now so I am currently in Michigan. Pretty cool seeing someone from the place I grew up though!

EDIT - Current Capability at 130% didn't visibly change anything. I turned the Load Line Calibration down to High and I got a blue screen shortly after testing since the voltage ran lower. I am running IBT now with - .045 v with the Load Line Calibration back on Ultra High. Should I put the LLC back to High and just raise the voltage some? What is the difference between running a higher LLC/lower voltage or lower LLC/higher voltage...either way you are still getting a higher voltage. I guess there may be less vDroop with a higher LLC. So which way is the best to have it? Seems the higher the LLC the higher your temperatures as well.


----------



## iLLGT3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Memory problem? Care to link me to a couple threads so I could read up on it.
> *I've ordered ton's of these boards, some of them where DOA or died unexpectedly but never caught fire or blew.
> *
> Did you use the same memory for all three mobo's? did you check the PSU? have you ever tried running it caseless?


My first P8P67 went right after using it about 4 hours. The second one lasted for a good 5-ish months. I recently bought a H80 and 8GB of Corsair Vengeance memory to replace my 4GB Corsair Vengeance memory. Both boards had used the 4GB kit. Upon upgrading to the 8, it happened again. When I installed this new 8GB memory, I did not take the mobo out of the case.. Just swapped the ram.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Memory problem? Care to link me to a couple threads so I could read up on it.
> *I've ordered ton's of these boards, some of them where DOA or died unexpectedly but never caught fire or blew.
> *
> Did you use the same memory for all three mobo's? did you check the PSU? have you ever tried running it caseless?
> 
> 
> 
> My first P8P67 went right after using it about 4 hours. The second one lasted for a good 5-ish months. I recently bought a H80 and 8GB of Corsair Vengeance memory to replace my 4GB Corsair Vengeance memory. Both boards had used the 4GB kit. Upon upgrading to the 8, it happened again. When I installed this new 8GB memory, I did not take the mobo out of the case.. Just swapped the ram.
Click to expand...

Sounding more and more like a user error I'm afraid.

How did you attach the motherboard to the case?
Did you use the standoffs?
Did you make sure that no extra standoffs where behind the motherboard, it probably has been shorting somewhere and caused the motherboard/s to die.
How many fans where connected to the motherboard?
Did you test your PSU? According to a lot of people, it's not a very good PSU - *How good is the Coolermaster GX 750*
Was the system overclocked?

Sorry but three motherboards in a row, doesn't sound right.

First thing I would probably do is get rid of that PSU and get something better.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PROX1MI7Y*
> 
> I've been reading through posts about the Marvel/JMicron Controllers but am still unsure about how to go about this. I have the P8Z68-V mobo
> I've just installed a Samsung 830 SSD 64gb and clean installed etc. Im currently running that as my OS/Program drive and using my 1tb barracuda HDD as the data drive both connected to the sata III 6gb ports, with my optical drive connected to one of the 3gb/s sata slots. Should I still disable these controllers/ unload the drivers?
> An additional annoyance I've been putting up with is the Splash Screen popping up twice whenever I restart/cold boot. Would doing the above resolve the issue?
> Thanks ahead of time


If I may make a suggestion... you might consider using the SSD as a cache drive via IRST for your 1TB Barracuda. 64GB is on the smallish size for an OS/program drive, imo.

I recently built a system with the P8Z68V and a 64GB Corsair M4 SSD with a 1TB Hitachi using IRST... and that system flies. It seems as fast as my 80GB SSD driven system.. and I wish I had a bigger SSD for OS/programs.

Anyway... just a thought.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iLLGT3*
> 
> My first P8P67 went right after using it about 4 hours. The second one lasted for a good 5-ish months. I recently bought a H80 and 8GB of Corsair Vengeance memory to replace my 4GB Corsair Vengeance memory. Both boards had used the 4GB kit. Upon upgrading to the 8, it happened again. When I installed this new 8GB memory, I did not take the mobo out of the case.. Just swapped the ram.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounding more and more like a user error I'm afraid.
> 
> How did you attach the motherboard to the case?
> Did you use the standoffs?
> Did you make sure that no extra standoffs where behind the motherboard, it probably has been shorting somewhere and caused the motherboard/s to die.
> How many fans where connected to the motherboard?
> Did you test your PSU? According to a lot of people, it's not a very good PSU - *How good is the Coolermaster GX 750*
> Was the system overclocked?
> 
> Sorry but three motherboards in a row, doesn't sound right.
> 
> First thing I would probably do is get rid of that PSU and get something better.
Click to expand...

+1 for that. I think munaim1 is on the right track here. Shorts in the motherboard due to contact with the case or a power supply with a bad voltage or current regulation circuit are the most likely culprits here, especially if you were not trying to OC at all and the motherboards were just dying in a stock condition. If you were trying to OC I'd say that it's not shorts or contact with the case shorting things out and that makes a fault in the PSU even more likely.

Consider switching PSU units. There are some good threads in the Power Supply forums where good brands are recommended.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On a completely unrelated topic I have been experimenting with the motherboard a bit more and moving farther away from automatic settings for most parameters while still leaving speedstep enabled.

I've been able to reduce my voltage _significantly_ with the same overclock and my temperatures have dropped as well.

I've disabled LLC (Load Line Calibration) and forced the PLL voltage to be 1.800V (stock setting) as opposed to letting it regulate automatically. When I disabled LLC I had to increase my offset, but I'm now stable 4.7 GHz at 1.300 V. It will spike to 1.312V when I use Intel Burn Test.

Furthermore, I went from 126 GFlops/s IBT (maximum memory use)on my first configuration, to 127 GFlops/s IBT (max mem.) on my second configuration and now I'm up to 128 GFlops/s IBT (max mem.) on this new setting. As I dig into the specs and really start playing with the settings, I'm learning quite a bit. I was actually able to get it to POST and run partway through Prime95 and IBT 4.7 GHz at only 1.200 V but I ended up getting error 101 BSODs (meaning I needed to increase my Vcore.) I got it stable at 1.285 V but I found that I actually had the best benchmarks in PCMark and the most GFlops/s in IBT by using 1.295 to 1.300 V.

I will post yet another BIOS profile update soon, after I verify that this meets my long-term stability criteria.

As an added benefit, IBT only hits 76C and I haven't gone over 68C while I've been finishing my folding WUs that I had left over. (I really shouldn't fold on an system that isn't verified for long-term stability, but I need to get these wu finished.)


----------



## xSociety

Just got my ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3. I have a weird issue:

It won't recognize my 6950 through HDMI, at all, but it works when using DVI/VGA. Tried my old 5770 and HDMI works fine with it,

Any ideas?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaStA819*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Note TwoCables setting CPU Current Capability: 140% if you are using this for the x46 multi it is no wonder you have higher than needed vCore try 130% for the lower clock and start from there. Lower voltage is always better and always depends on the proc it self. We all should try to tweak down our voltages and when templates are provided bare in mind they are only a starting points and your system will most certainly be different in what it actually needs for stability. Anything that end up less than what someone else needs is a plus and in the end means less heat, wear and tear on your system components. I'd also think you could run 1.65 VCCIO instead of the default 1.8v. Keep in mind here all the auto setting will likely be higher than actual required.
> If you are speaking of the CPUTIN voltage from HWMonitor it is notorious for miss reporting however you would want to pay attention to the CPU Core Temps which normally report correctly. I just don't trust it when it already misreports stuff, I believe even Asus software (AISuite) misreports the same and I recommend not installing either on your system. I use Aida Extreme (paid ver) for monitoring and all reports accurately
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I set it to 130% and I still have the voltage at - .04v. Running IBT now at maximum to see how things turn out. Max volt I see in CPU-Z now is 1.336v still.
> 
> Should I try to lower the CPU Current Capability even more or leave it at 130% and keep lowering the offset voltage?
> 
> Also, I am from Cape Coral and graduated from Cape Coral High School in 2003. I'm in the Air Force now so I am currently in Michigan. Pretty cool seeing someone from the place I grew up though!
> 
> EDIT - Current Capability at 130% didn't visibly change anything. I turned the Load Line Calibration down to High and I got a blue screen shortly after testing since the voltage ran lower. I am running IBT now with - .045 v with the Load Line Calibration back on Ultra High. Should I put the LLC back to High and just raise the voltage some? What is the difference between running a higher LLC/lower voltage or lower LLC/higher voltage...either way you are still getting a higher voltage. I guess there may be less vDroop with a higher LLC. So which way is the best to have it? Seems the higher the LLC the higher your temperatures as well.
Click to expand...

UH LLC and Lower Vcore is the way to go which translates in to a higher vcore at load and lower vcore at idle. My son graduated a few years before you we'll hold the fort down for ya till ya get back. God Bless and Thanks for your service


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> I've disabled LLC (Load Line Calibration) and forced the PLL voltage to be 1.800V (stock setting) as opposed to letting it regulate automatically. When I disabled LLC I had to increase my offset, but I'm now stable 4.7 GHz at 1.300 V. It will spike to 1.312V when I use Intel Burn Test.


What do you mean by disabled Load Line Calibration?

Ive been fighting my overclock for 3 days now. Right now im at 1.38v for 4.8GHz when running Intel Burn Test, But when I start play games or editing a video with Adobe Premiere I get spikes to 1.42v







Has anyone else seen this with there overclocks?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> I've disabled LLC (Load Line Calibration) and forced the PLL voltage to be 1.800V (stock setting) as opposed to letting it regulate automatically. When I disabled LLC I had to increase my offset, but I'm now stable 4.7 GHz at 1.300 V. It will spike to 1.312V when I use Intel Burn Test.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean by disabled Load Line Calibration?
> 
> Ive been fighting my overclock for 3 days now. Right now im at 1.38v for 4.8GHz when running Intel Burn Test, But when I start play games or editing a video with Adobe Premiere I get spikes to 1.4v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else seen this with there overclocks?
Click to expand...

I mean that I left LLC on "Standard" or the 0% setting, rather than the 50% high, 75% very high, or 100% extreme, or whatever Asus gives you in the BIOS. I can't quite remember the parameters right now, but I discovered that by reducing LLC to the smallest amount possible gave me much lower voltage at load, _slightly_ higher voltage at idle, although not much, and much lower temperatures and significantly faster calculation times in benchmarks. In fact, this current 4.7 GHz profile is performing as well as my past 4.8 GHz profile performed in terms of calculations in IBT Gflops/s or in [email protected] TPF, but it's considerably cooler and has lower Vcore as well.

From what I can tell, increasing the LLC parameter is a workaround for a volt-mod to reduce the effects of Vdroop and prevent your CPU from spiking Vcore during transients. It seems to be a great option for motherboards that don't have extremely high quality VRM phases and I've discovered that with my motherboard (and I'd assume the top-end motherboards in each line) that I don't need much LLC at all as Vdroop isn't nearly as much an issue with this board and PSU that I have. (The two are related, the best board in the world won't help you if your PSU is poor.)


----------



## R.D.BID

This may have been asked a thousand times already, but there are so many pages to go through in this thread. I appologize in advance.

Will the P8P67 Pro and Deluxe support three physical gpu's? If it can, what are the pro's and cons of such a set up on these boards.
Would you recomend a different board instead?


----------



## MaStA819

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> UH LLC and Lower Vcore is the way to go which translates in to a higher vcore at load and lower vcore at idle. My son graduated a few years before you we'll hold the fort down for ya till ya get back. God Bless and Thanks for your service


Ok great. So having - .045 v in the offset setting is normal for a 2500k @ 4.6ghz you think?

Also, you're very welcome for my service. I love what I do.

Thank you for your help,
Jared


----------



## kludger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> That being said, I have a Garmin Edge 305 (for cycling) that, when I plug it into a USB (rear) 2.0 port to d/l the data, it BSODs the computer pointing to a file named grmnusb.sys. It did not do this on the Conroe system. It BSODS about 80% of the time, if not more... which is to say not every time, but almost every time it will BSOD.
> Any of you seen this behavior before?
> I posted about this over on the Seven Forums and they told me the Garmin USB driver is not Win7/64 compatible. OTOH, Garmin says it is compatible... and my prior success running it on Win7/64 on the Conroe system is hard to deny.
> My work around is to reboot the computer and connect the Edge in the process. If I shut down the computer, connect the Edge, then turn on the computer, it will BSOD and restart, then boot up ok and let me d/l the data. Weird that it survives a restart but not a cold boot.
> Any thoughts?


I don't own this board yet, was researching for any problems, but I can tell you I have the same problem with my Garmin 305 and Win7/64 on my i7-920/Bloodrage, so it is definitely a known issue and really down to the crap USB drivers from Garmin. I've gave up trying to resolve it and just hope Garmin gets a clue and puts out an updated USB driver set sometime.

Anyhow no solution but just wanted to let you know it is not specific to this board, it is a common issue for the Win7/64 Garmin USB driver.


----------



## dartuil

hello ,

im planning to buy this:

cofre i5 2300
asus p8z68v le
hd 6870
4x2go of huh... corsair or g skill
but my question is is my 500w handle this well no oc plan atm


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> hello ,
> 
> im planning to buy this:
> 
> cofre i5 2300
> asus p8z68v le
> hd 6870
> 4x2go of huh... corsair or g skill
> but my question is is my 500w handle this well no oc plan atm


yes it will be fine and you can overclock that gpu as much as you want.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kludger*
> 
> I don't own this board yet, was researching for any problems, but I can tell you I have the same problem with my Garmin 305 and Win7/64 on my i7-920/Bloodrage, so it is definitely a known issue and really down to the crap USB drivers from Garmin. I've gave up trying to resolve it and just hope Garmin gets a clue and puts out an updated USB driver set sometime.
> Anyhow no solution but just wanted to let you know it is not specific to this board, it is a common issue for the Win7/64 Garmin USB driver.


Thanks kludger. I wish I could explain how it worked fine with the Conroe system on Win7/64 HP but has issues with the SB build.

It's been suggested that a reformat and W7/64 re-install might fix the issue. However, that brings its own issues (namely, reinstalling and tweaking all my programs).

I may temp install a spare HD I have and install Win7/64 on it to test that hypothesis if I have time over the holidays.


----------



## kludger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> Thanks kludger. I wish I could explain how it worked fine with the Conroe system on Win7/64 HP but has issues with the SB build.
> It's been suggested that a reformat and W7/64 re-install might fix the issue. However, that brings its own issues (namely, reinstalling and tweaking all my programs).
> I may temp install a spare HD I have and install Win7/64 on it to test that hypothesis if I have time over the holidays.


Yeah that sounds good, I would definitely just do it just as a trial as it is likely to not fix it, I've reinstalled my W7/64 two previous times for SSD upgrade and each time tried to hope the Garmin USB sync would work, but other than a few times where it worked fine and fooled me, eventually I get the BSD crash again, so reinstall in my case has not solved it, and when I googled I still see lots of other people with the same problem and no real solution.

Too bad as I am really happy with the Garmin 305 otherwise and have not felt the need to upgrade.


----------



## dartuil

which memory kit should i get :
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145345
price dont matter but performance









thx


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> which memory kit should i get :
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
> or
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145345
> price dont matter but performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx


There pretty much the same. There both 9-9-9-24 1.5v, Ive had good luck with G.SKILL


----------



## dartuil

woow crazy rip man how it run eyefiniity do u have vidz?
ill go with ripjaws X 1600 thx


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> woow crazy rip man how it run eyefiniity do u have vidz?
> ill go with ripjaws X 1600 thx


It runs Eyefinity pretty good, But a 2600K @4.9GHz and 6990+6970 Tri-Fire should








Right now I don't have any videos of it, But ill work on that









My brother has the 8GB Ripjaws X your looking at and they have been great. I have the 8-8-8-24 1.5v, And they have been great too. Im going to try overclocking them, And see if I can get them up to 1866 or higher if they will let me


----------



## dartuil

ill try to put mine too 8-8-8-24 i get 1600 because i want to try modding latency if possible


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> ill try to put mine too 8-8-8-24 i get 1600 because i want to try modding latency if possible


I'm running some XMP Ripjaws 2x4GB 1600 CL8 factory stuff that's great.

I'm going to do my best to get it down to CL7 timings or perhaps go above 1600 with CL8 timings if I can pull it off.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> I'm running some XMP Ripjaws 2x4GB 1600 CL8 factory stuff that's great.
> I'm going to do my best to get it down to CL7 timings or perhaps go above 1600 with CL8 timings if I can pull it off.


I think I remember reading that SB likes speed more then timings, But im sure it like low timings too


----------



## dartuil

so better is :
oced it to 1866 cl9 or 1600 cl7


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> so better is :
> oced it to 1866 cl9 or 1600 cl7


This might help http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/memory/2011/01/11/the-best-memory-for-sandy-bridge/


----------



## dartuil

thx man! needed something like that


----------



## pengs

Is this real life?
I think I've got 1.27 - 1.28v stable at 4.3GHz by just adjusting the multi and offset by -0.010. I guess that's a normal voltage to clock speed for most users but coming from a C2 955 that couldn't hit 3.7 without 1.47v, that's awesome









I've only ran about 30 minutes of prime, 2 hours of BF3 and a couple of cinebench runs so I might shoot my self in the foot. I tried using the ASUS oc presets for [email protected]'s but the voltage would shoot to 1.4+ in spurts which didn't set well with me.

Add meh! I love this board. Been running like a champ for 24 hours so far... and it looks brilliant. ASUS figured out how to use a color scheme? ...









Oh and uh, BF3. Just for the record on something that has had disagreements - my Phenom II x4 at 3.7 was choking my frame rate, not badly but it was the bottleneck 3/4th of the time. At the worst it choked me down to 45fps with my GPU usage around 65% (give or take) at that instance. The GPU now never comes off 98 - 99% usage - the 45fps area's are now 58+, same resolution, graphical options, nvidia drivers, ect. on both platforms. One instance of this CPU intensive area is in Caspian coming out of the RU base on the main dirt road looking over the field towards the US base on the left.
<3


----------



## dartuil

will ivy bridge have real 6cores?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> My brother has the 8GB Ripjaws X your looking at and they have been great. I have the 8-8-8-24 1.5v, And they have been great too. Im going to try overclocking them, And see if I can get them up to 1866 or higher if they will let me


I wouldn't expect more than 1720MHz out of them regardless of the timings. They don't OC well, but the Red ones(9-9-9-28-2T 1600MHz) should be able to do 1866MHz.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> will ivy bridge have real 6cores?


No ivy bridge will be 4 core i5, and 4 core with HT i7 just like SB. There is going to be a ivy bridge-E, Just like SB-E that will be 6 core.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> I wouldn't expect more than 1720MHz out of them regardless of the timings. They don't OC well, but the Red ones(9-9-9-28-2T 1600MHz) should be able to do 1866MHz.


Is that as far as you got with this ram? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231445


----------



## WiZARD7

I've just bought a P8Z68-V GEN3 mobo (+2500k, 8 gb Corsair Vengeance LP White -1.35V), I'm using my "old" Noctua NH-D14, with the 3 pin Noctua fans.
I tried controlling the fans in bios/windows utility, but it won't do anything, they are spinning at their max RPM, and it is a little loud.

What is the problem, how can I control them?

(on my old Gigabyte P35 the auto fan control worked fine...)


----------



## kcuestag

....ignore this....


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiZARD7*
> 
> I've just bought a P8Z68-V GEN3 mobo (+2500k, 8 gb Corsair Vengeance LP White -1.35V), I'm using my "old" Noctua NH-D14, with the 3 pin Noctua fans.
> I tried controlling the fans in bios/windows utility, but it won't do anything, they are spinning at their max RPM, and it is a little loud.
> What is the problem, how can I control them?
> (on my old Gigabyte P35 the auto fan control worked fine...)


Under cpu temp/mb temp

CPU Q fan [enabled]
CPU fan spd low limit [600rpm]
CPU fan profile [manual]
CPU fan maximum duty cycle [100%]
CPU fan minimum duty cycle[20%]

mine rams up and down with load this way hyper 212+ on pwm fans though, i don't use any software just cmos bios.


----------



## owcraftsman

The WS is a solid board and I'd say the OC is more dependent on the proc it self rather than the other way around. If anything I'd say the WS has a greater chance of better stability and longevity with it's higher copper content and thicker PCB. There is no doubt in my mind it's an upgrade vs the EVO.
In terms of GPU heat there is no avoiding the SLI profile power management which lowers the power profile of the 2nd card to conserve power when not in a 3D app. This accounts for majority of the discrepancy in heat other than the physics of heat rising making the top card run hotter. For example with my dual 580s at desktop browsing the internet, the main card runs 797cc 1594SC 1012mc 1.075v the secondary card runs at 50cc 101sc 67mc 0963v. The instant a full load 3D app like BF3, Heaven or 3DM11 etc are running both cards run at the rated spec (797/1594/1012) and temps normalize within +/- 3c top vs bottom. Both have exactly the same bios ver so no difference there in terms of power management so there is no wonder why the top card runs hotter. The best advice I can give in this regard would be to rotate cards periodically to even out the wear and tear. In any case I hope this helps.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> No ivy bridge will be 4 core i5, and 4 core with HT i7 just like SB. There is going to be a ivy bridge-E, Just like SB-E that will be 6 core.
> Is that as far as you got with this ram? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231445


That's as far as i seem to be able to get. But at that point, the high/low BCLK may be causing the "overclocking failed". A mod(Pioneerscloud, or something similar) also has this ram, and said he reached 1700 or so, while the red ones reach 1866, and 2133(i think).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uniwarking*
> 
> Hey guys, is it normal for the motherboard to show extreme temps? Like 123C? I have a P8P67 rev 3.1 board it it will display warnings fromt time to time... also shows in HWMonitor. Seems odd, don't think it's real.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> That's as far as i seem to be able to get. But at that point, the high/low BCLK may be causing the "overclocking failed". A mod(Pioneerscloud, or something similar) also has this ram, and said he reached 1700 or so, while the red ones reach 1866, and 2133(i think).


Yeah, pinoneerisloud is knowledgeable with the G. Skill RAM kits and you should ask him if you want good advices


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Bit random but does anyone know the RAL number or name for the blue heat sinks on the P8Z68-V/Gen3. I'd like to paint a few things to match it.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## WiZARD7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> Under cpu temp/mb temp
> CPU Q fan [enabled]
> CPU fan spd low limit [600rpm]
> CPU fan profile [manual]
> CPU fan maximum duty cycle [100%]
> CPU fan minimum duty cycle[20%]
> mine rams up and down with load this way hyper 212+ on pwm fans though, i don't use any software just cmos bios.


tried it also, but doesn't work








maybe can you try with some 3 pin fans?


----------



## hmar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Bit random but does anyone know the RAL number or name for the blue heat sinks on the P8Z68-V/Gen3. I'd like to paint a few things to match it.
> Thanks in advance.


Holding my defect P8Z68 board near my screen the blue likes more to RAL5024. You can find RAL-colors to compare here : http://www.darfen.co.uk/ral-colours.php. But color interpretation depends on representation on the screen and the texture of the surfaces.

hmar


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kludger*
> 
> Yeah that sounds good, I would definitely just do it just as a trial as it is likely to not fix it, I've reinstalled my W7/64 two previous times for SSD upgrade and each time tried to hope the Garmin USB sync would work, but other than a few times where it worked fine and fooled me, eventually I get the BSD crash again, so reinstall in my case has not solved it, and when I googled I still see lots of other people with the same problem and no real solution.
> Too bad as I am really happy with the Garmin 305 otherwise and have not felt the need to upgrade.


Very interesting that a reinstall didn't fix it.

I guess my Google-fu isn't as good as yours. I haven't found much online about the Edge 305 and Sandy Bridge incompatibilities. Do you know if other Garmin products have issues too?


----------



## Mkilbride

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131791

I was thinking of grabbing this over a cheaper board I was looking at. The Dual Ethernet thing looks cool, as I could use my computer as a router, I read. It has Bluetooth, whatever that is. IT has a PS/2 port, which is nice, for my mouse. Full support for SLi if I ever wanted to, room for my Sound card, additional cards, and custom cooler for my GPU eventually, perhaps.

4 3GB/s

4 6GB/s

4 USB 3.0

10 USB 2.0 seems excessive though, lol.

About the only issue I can nit-pick about the board is no Dr. Debug, which I really love, as it can help when you have an issue and can't boot up the comp.

Hmm.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157263

10$ cheaper, has a Dr.Debug, and more USB 3.0. Other than that, close.


----------



## xSociety

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 overclocked my 2500k to 4.2 with a click of a button. I would say that's pretty decent. Love this board so far even though it won't recognize my HD 6950 through HDMI.


----------



## afkingjay

Just curious, why does my cputin always run high. it usually is around 90c. when i game or prime it goes high. these are my temps after gaming. nothing else ever gets hot. asus Ai suite says everything is fine cpu temp is 28c right after the game



this is the only sensor to get hot

this is after prime


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> Just curious, why does my cputin always run high. it usually is around 90c. when i game or prime it goes high. these are my temps after gaming. nothing else ever gets hot. asus Ai suite says everything is fine cpu temp is 28c right after the game


My cputin just sits at 60c. I think it just doesn't read that sensor right.


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiZARD7*
> 
> tried it also, but doesn't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe can you try with some 3 pin fans?


some questions answered

Can I run Noctua fans on 4-pin PWM connectors and use my mainboard's automatic fan controller?
You can simply connect our fan's 3-pin connector to the 4-pin PWM sockets of today's mainboards so that the fourth pin that transmits the PWM signal is left blank (due to the shape of the connector, there's no danger of reversing polarity). Some mainboards (e.g. current Gigabyte models) are capable of controlling fans not only via PWM, but also by adjusting the supplied voltage. In some cases, this may require you to change BIOS options like "Fan Control Mode" from "PWM" to "Voltage" or "Analog". Please consult your mainboard's manual in this regard. However, some mainboards use an "auto" setting by default that automatically chooses PWM or voltage based regulation according to the connected fan. Automatically controlling the fan speed may not possible on mainboards that pulse the power rather than lowering the fan voltage.

So it may not be possible to be motherboard bios fan speed control with this cooler on some motherboards unless PWM fans?
Then its a manual rheostat or controller as no PWM fans

I did read an online review about the cooler and mentions adaptors for noise quietning and different air flows

Somebody using the cooler may chime in.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> Just curious, why does my cputin always run high. it usually is around 90c. when i game or prime it goes high. these are my temps after gaming. nothing else ever gets hot. asus Ai suite says everything is fine cpu temp is 28c right after the game
> 
> 
> 
> My cputin just sits at 60c. I think it just doesn't read that sensor right.
Click to expand...

+1 CPUTIN notoriously misreports with HWMonitor do ignore it and focus on core temps which all seem to be well within the acceptable range at 100% load based on your screen shots.


----------



## Mkilbride

Alright, guess I'm going with the Asrock Extreme 3 Gen 3.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Alright, guess I'm going with the Asrock Extreme 3 Gen 3.


I love the feature set on those boards but can't get past their lack of confidence in the board. It strikes me in a bad way they only offer a 1 year warranty when Asus is upping the standard warranty from 3 to 5 years on the Gen 3 boards. It's not that I keep a board more than a year it's what I've got when I go the sell it and what it's worth.


----------



## Stuuut

Hey guys i just found out that the TPU switch on my ASUS P8Z68V-Pro does this affect overclocking? Because i switched it to off and it seems my cpu needs alot less vcore now. Can anybody shed some light on this?


----------



## Mkilbride

Yeah, but the lack of a PS/2 ports on the Pro model makes it a no buy for me.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Hey guys i just found out that the TPU switch on my ASUS P8Z68V-Pro does this affect overclocking? Because i switched it to off and it seems my cpu needs alot less vcore now. Can anybody shed some light on this?


TPU is an auto tune feature that can be activated through AISuite II or the motherboard switch it couples with the auto tune or Overclocking feature to regulate system settings like voltages at idle and load to offer the user a stable overclock for dummies. I have found that those setting are typically more than what is required for my proc to handle that same load and is geared to work well for the majority of users who may have a lesser capable proc. It may be fine for those who have no patients to find the manual settings for stability but I recommend not using it or AISuite II for best results. Using it at 5.0 it raised my vCore over 1.5v and PLL at 1.85v when I only need 1.424 vCore and 1.65v PLL when set manually YMMV Higher voltages = Higher Temps and wear & tear so the choice here is obvious. It boils down to how much effort you want to put into it for me manual settings leaving nothing auto is FTW.


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> TPU is an auto tune feature that can be activated through AISuite II or the motherboard switch it couples with the auto tune or Overclocking feature to regulate system settings like voltages at idle and load to offer the user a stable overclock for dummies. I have found that those setting are typically more than what is required for my proc to handle that same load and is geared to work well for the majority of users who may have a lesser capable proc. It may be fine for those who have no patients to find the manual settings for stability but I recommend not using it or AISuite II for best results. Using it at 5.0 it raised my vCore over 1.5v and PLL at 1.85v when I only need 1.424 vCore and 1.65v PLL when set manually YMMV Higher voltages = Higher Temps and wear & tear so the choice here is obvious. It boils down to how much effort you want to put into it for me manual settings leaving nothing auto is FTW.


That was not what i meant... i had the switch to on but had a manual overclock running.
But it seems i was wrong it still needs about the same amount of vcore to be stable







damn my chip sucks... 1.416 vcore for a 4.5GHz overclock and more then 1.52vcore to get to 5GHz....


----------



## afkingjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> +1 CPUTIN notoriously misreports with HWMonitor do ignore it and focus on core temps which all seem to be well within the acceptable range at 100% load based on your screen shots.


Anyone know a good Temp reader.... should i ignore AI suite 2 or just UN install???... just dont want to fry my MB

also

1. systin... im guessing is the whole system temp???? this confuses me because this matches the temp ai suite and my bios shows for cpu temp????
2. cputin. Temp of the cpu cant be????
3.auxtin... no idea?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> +1 CPUTIN notoriously misreports with HWMonitor do ignore it and focus on core temps which all seem to be well within the acceptable range at 100% load based on your screen shots.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know a good Temp reader.... should i ignore AI suite 2 or just UN install???... just dont want to fry my MB
> 
> also
> 
> 1. systin... im guessing is the whole system temp???? this confuses me because this matches the temp ai suite and my bios shows for cpu temp????
> 2. cputin. Temp of the cpu cant be????
> 3.auxtin... no idea?
Click to expand...

I use Aida Extreme (paid ver) for monitoring worth every penny IMHO and I Love the OSD. I'm not sure which is which but Aida reports Core temps, plus two other CPU temps the CPU and CPU Package. I'm not sure where these sensors on located on die but I believe one is on the surface (IHS) and the other at the core center. Whether either of these is what HWMonitor is calling CPUTIN or AUXTIN I'm not sure but I'm sure Adia is reporting it correctly based on the stability of my system

Definitely ditch AISuite II

Aida 64 Extreme OSD


----------



## WiZARD7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> I did read an online review about the cooler and mentions adaptors for noise quietning and different air flows
> Somebody using the cooler may chime in.


thx, I've read it, and I have the low noise adaptors, but it would be much better, if a 180$ mobo and a 90$ cooler could work together normally, without using 5penny adaptors...


----------



## afkingjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I use Aida Extreme (paid ver) for monitoring worth every penny IMHO and I Love the OSD. I'm not sure which is which but Aida reports Core temps, plus two other CPU temps the CPU and CPU Package. I'm not sure where these sensors on located on die but I believe one is on the surface (IHS) and the other at the core center. Whether either of these is what HWMonitor is calling CPUTIN or AUXTIN I'm not sure but I'm sure Adia is reporting it correctly based on the stability of my system
> Definitely ditch AISuite II
> Aida 64 Extreme OSD


with your knowledge should i change my LLC, Phase Control, and Duty Control and CPU Current Capability or keep it at default settings? I see alot of guys doing this. Just not sure what this does, and when i Google this its not in lamens terms so I'm not sure what changing this would do... this is my First O.C

thanks a bunch

System specs as follows

p8p67 pro
2500k
corsair vengeance ram at xmp 1866
hyper 212 evo cooler

right now im at 100x4.7 epu disabled and offset =.035
LLC = stock
Phase Control = stock
Duty Control = Stock
CPU Current Capability = 100%


----------



## WiZARD7

I tried the Chassis Fan headers, on these headers I can easily control the fans speed. The only problem it is linked to the MoBo temperature, not the CPU, so it is not useful for the CPU fan...









It looks like, only PWM fan can be controlled. this suxx


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiZARD7*
> 
> I tried the Chassis Fan headers, on these headers I can easily control the fans speed. The only problem it is linked to the MoBo temperature, not the CPU, so it is not useful for the CPU fan...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like, only PWM fan can be controlled. this suxx


I disable fan control in bios which takes away temp as the controlling factor but set fans at 100% which is fine by me when I need to modulate I use a fan controller.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> with your knowledge should i change my LLC, Phase Control, and Duty Control and CPU Current Capability or keep it at default settings? I see alot of guys doing this. Just not sure what this does, and when i Google this its not in lamens terms so I'm not sure what changing this would do... this is my First O.C
> 
> thanks a bunch
> 
> System specs as follows
> 
> p8p67 pro
> 2500k
> corsair vengeance ram at xmp 1866
> hyper 212 evo cooler
> 
> right now im at 100x4.7 epu disabled and offset =.035
> LLC = stock
> Phase Control = stock
> Duty Control = Stock
> CPU Current Capability = 100%


Most OC's above 4.6 to 4.8 folks will set:
LLC to Ultra High,
Phase Control & Duty Control to Extreme,
& CPU Current Cap to 130%
the offset looks fine however it never hurts to see if it's stable at a lower offset if not possible you can always go back.

I have some of my setting listed on the spread sheet linked in my sig feel free to try what you see there and add your own.
Keep in mind I have the 2600k but they OC essentially the same only real difference is Hyperthreading and sometimes require a bit more vCore
If you are stable with the settings you listed that would be fine too however I suspect not.
FYI: My definition of stable is running Prime95 custom utilizing max memory for 10 hrs min which is how long it takes to run all available test within Prime.
I have 8GB memory installed and set Prime to use 6154GB memory sometimes I have to select a bit less to get it to run it all depends on how much the system is using at the time you start the test.
Certain test will raise the heat high just like Linx but other test stress lots of memory etc etc making Prime95 the best overall indicator of a stable system if you can pass all the test.


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiZARD7*
> 
> thx, I've read it, and I have the low noise adaptors, but it would be much better, if a 180$ mobo and a 90$ cooler could work together normally, without using 5penny adaptors...


Well I can't help that, thats why i use PWM's though. Anywho Looks like Noctura came out with PWM fans now though ....

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/news/noctua-announces-new-pwm-fans/


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiZARD7*
> 
> I tried the Chassis Fan headers, on these headers I can easily control the fans speed. The only problem it is linked to the MoBo temperature, not the CPU, so it is not useful for the CPU fan...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like, only PWM fan can be controlled. this suxx


You can use SpeedFan to control your fans even setting the GPU temps as basis.


----------



## WiZARD7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiZARD7*
> 
> I tried the Chassis Fan headers, on these headers I can easily control the fans speed. The only problem it is linked to the MoBo temperature, not the CPU, so it is not useful for the CPU fan...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like, only PWM fan can be controlled. this suxx


I was wrong, the Chassis fan headers are also controlled by CPU temperature, so it works...

But now I can't control my chassis fans...
Maybe I'll buy the new PWM Noctua fan (and it has a cable to control the other fan, so NH-D14 will be fine)


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> this is after prime


Does anyone know what the VIN6 is monitoring? On the screenshot you see it's been idling little below 1.0v but just like mine, it drops way down when pushed. When I use something like OCCT4 PSU test it goes all the way down to ~0.5v which is a fair drop.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> with your knowledge should i change my LLC, Phase Control, and Duty Control and CPU Current Capability or keep it at default settings? I see alot of guys doing this. Just not sure what this does, and when i Google this its not in lamens terms so I'm not sure what changing this would do... this is my First O.C+ LLC Medium (25%)
> + 0.040 offset[/B]
> 
> thanks a bunch
> 
> System specs as follows
> 
> p8p67 pro
> 2500k
> corsair vengeance ram at xmp 1866
> hyper 212 evo cooler
> 
> right now im at 100x4.7 epu disabled and offset =.035
> LLC = stock
> Phase Control = stock
> Duty Control = Stock
> CPU Current Capability = 100%
> 
> 
> 
> Most OC's above 4.6 to 4.8 folks will set:
> LLC to Ultra High,
> Phase Control & Duty Control to Extreme,
> & CPU Current Cap to 130%
> the offset looks fine however it never hurts to see if it's stable at a lower offset if not possible you can always go back.
> 
> I have some of my setting listed on the spread sheet linked in my sig feel free to try what you see there and add your own.
> Keep in mind I have the 2600k but they OC essentially the same only real difference is Hyperthreading and sometimes require a bit more vCore
> If you are stable with the settings you listed that would be fine too however I suspect not.
> FYI: My definition of stable is running Prime95 custom utilizing max memory for 10 hrs min which is how long it takes to run all available test within Prime.
> I have 8GB memory installed and set Prime to use 6154GB memory sometimes I have to select a bit less to get it to run it all depends on how much the system is using at the time you start the test.
> Certain test will raise the heat high just like Linx but other test stress lots of memory etc etc making Prime95 the best overall indicator of a stable system if you can pass all the test.
Click to expand...

Your advice is excellent, however I disagree with your recommendation of LLC and I explain why in detail below in each of my iterations of testing.

We also have different definitions of stability. Ten hours is *not* going to run every iteration of FFT within Prime95 if you use the 15 minute value for each test. The more tests you run, the more FFTs it will test. I began to compile a list using a Blend customized for 90% RAM use (which on my system is closer to 6975 MB memory being used) and I ran that Blend for 1 minute cycles. I got bored after 90 minutes and had recorded 89 distinct FFTs and had not yet reached any duplicate FFTs. If you extrapolate that out to the default 15 minutes per test, you'd have to run for 22.25 hours and you'd still not have a duplicate FFT. You would run through each type of FFT and probably get a statistically relevant sample but you're not going to hit them all until you're at or beyond the 24 hour mark.

Also the Prime95 tests change depending on if you increase the maximum size of the FFT. (I did not when I tested this.)


Spoiler: Each person's criteria for a stable system are different. Here are my criteria.



With all of that being said, my criteria for a "stable" system are 30+ iterations of Intel Burn Test on maximum (Linpack based, will give more thermal stress than Prime95 and will also force more Vdroop than Prime95 and give you a BSOD 0x0101 much faster than Prime95 will if your voltage is too low.) Following that, I immediately reset my temperature values in Real Temp (after recording them for reference) and I test a Prime95 blend customized to use the same amount of RAM Linpack was using. (This gives you a 95% use situation). I leave all other settings as the default Blend and I run this for at the very least 12 hours, but I prefer 18 or even 24 hours. This will catch BSOD 0x0124 memory over/under volt and/or cpu over/under volt that IBT is known to miss. After both tests, I will run a few PCMarks and 3DMarks and then just to make sure that I don't have any Northbridge or Southbridge controller issues that the other tests missed. If I've done any GPU OC I will run a FurMark (or OCCT or evga OCScanner, all use a FurMark variant) and stress the GPU as well as get a performance value from it to make sure that I'm not throttling at load.

And then I do a 24 or 48 hour folding run where I combine -smp #cores and a GPU fold simultaneously. It's actually possible to appear to be rock-solid stable on Prime95 and Linpack and yet still have errors due to OC. [email protected] will catch these errors, especially GPU errors or chipset/controller errors that other benchmarks and stress tests aren't as likely to catch.

The final test is gaming and every-day use!



I also chose to deviate and use a 140% power profile rather than 130% and can justify it with numbers. (Note that the peak power consumed didn't change, but the computational efficiency improved.) Doing this requires that you reduce CPU PLL voltage values though. (Reduce PLL volt from 1.8 down to as low as 1.5, then raise power limit to 140% and very carefully increase PLL until your peak power hits just at or slightly below the power limit throttle mark. There's more detail on that later.

I have some general statements to make and then I will back them up with data from my latest (and rather exhaustive) experimentation with offset mode over-clocking.

My sig-rig has my components but I'll list them quickly here:

P8P67 WS Revolution
i5-2500K
G.Skills Ripjaws (blue CL8) at XMP 1600 8-8-8-24-2 Two x 4 GB = 8 GB
Thermalright Venemous-X RT

I have similar specifications to the above poster. However, it is important to note, when looking at the temperatures I post, that my case and fan scheme are designed for the most quiet gaming possible in a rather outdated case that couldn't be any smaller without a micro ATX board design. My temperatures could be drastically improved in a more modern case with multiple 120mm and 140mm fans.

Here are my statements:

The least amount of LLC to stay stable is the most thermally and computationally efficient setting you will get.
The greatest amount of Current Capacity limitation you feel comfortable with is best to use. (I use 140%)
The lowest peak Vcore and VID values that you can get without having BSOD 0x0101 is the best.
The lowest Vdroop (minimum voltage at high load) that you can get BSOD 0x0101 or BSOD 0x0124 is the best.
Enabling Internal PLL Overvoltage (no settings associated with it) will help with booting into windows for your first OCs in case there is a problem with your board.
CPU PULL Voltage can be reduced to as little as 1.5000V and in fact, that's a good place to begin your OC at.
Disabling LLC, C3 and C6 reporting, and using a manual voltage will allow you even more efficient over-clocks than offset, but you lose the ability to throttle your cpu down during idle or low-use scenarios.

You will have a more efficient (in terms of GFlops, Prime95 cycle times, TPF if you fold, or benchmark points on a bench) if you follow the above advice and in some cases you may find that a 100 MHz lower CPU clock will out-perform the next highest multiplier in terms of GFlops if you follow this procedure carefully. (In my case, the performance gain was significant.)

Here is my experience with pseudo-stable and final-stable OC's beginning with the stock system.

*It's important to note that absolutely none of these changes were tried at random in large increments, nor did I change multiple parameters at once. I'm simply condensing all of my trial and error into the combinations that resulted in the initial linpack/IBT testing stability while watching maximum Vcore and Tcore so as not to exceed design parameters. Each iteration listed here is anywhere from one to fifteen iterations in real experimentation to reflect the multiple change combination shown.*


Spoiler: Stock Settings. Always start here at stock, and change each feature you are considering adjusting here independently while observing its effect on temperature, voltage, and power consumption before attempting to change them at elevated clock/voltage levels.



I started with stock settings and I found that my motherboard and CPU together performed as follows:
0.960 Vmin (This was a baseline to determine absolute minimum stable voltage at 1600 MHz)
3700 MHz (Clock speed)
7090 MB RAM (amount of memory assigned for IBT during maximum run)
1.248/1.240 Vpeak (peak voltage in IBT / Vdroop at full load in IBT)
60/68/68/66 (Tcore max temperatures by core, lower is better obviously)
174.001 s (calculation time at that memory amount, is only relevant if memory used is identical)
102.68 GFlops (measure of efficiency of the system, higher is better)

*All changes are made in bold face and are successive. meaning the changes in the previous test(s) apply to all subsequent tests as well, in other words, only new changes are noted. Values are not additive though, so a +0.25V does not reflect an addition of 0.25V onto the last value, but instead reflects that the value is +0.25V compared to stock.*





Spoiler: Disabling LLC



*+ 140% Temperature Capacity*
*+ LLC Regular (0%)*
7130 MB RAM
1.248/1.240 Vpeak/Vdroop
59/68/68/65
183.121 s
98.41 GFlops

As you can see, my thermal efficiency and voltages did not change, but my GFlops were reduced by a measurable amount. This change was to establish a baseline.





Spoiler: Changing to Current Capacity regulation



*+ 140% CPU Current Capacity*
7252 MB RAM
1.256/1.248 Vpeak/Vdroop
59/68/68/66
182.625 s
101.27 GFlops

Note that by switching from Temperature to Current regulation for the Power Limits, my GFlops returned to stock values. Voltages have increased, but thermals have not, probably due to Heat-Sink/Fan efficiency.





Spoiler: Enabling Internal PLL Over Voltage to guarantee booting into windows.



*+ Enable PLL O.V.*
7235 MB RAM
1.256/1.248 Vpeak/Vdroop
59/68/68/66
181.032 s
101.79 GFlops

No significant change here. This was to establish the effects of the changes on voltage in upcoming tests.





Spoiler: Reducing CPU PLL from 1.8 to 1.7 and adding a tiny fixed offset to prevent automatic offsetting.



*- CPU PLL 1.7000* (reduced to value of 1.7 from stock/auto value of 1.8000V)
*+ 0.005 Offset* (total value 0.005)
7248 MB RAM
1.264/1.248 Vpeak/Vdroop
59/69/68/66
181.97 s
101.55 GFlops

There are still no significant changes here, as I was attempting to establish a safe platform to begin my OC with. Voltages have increased some as have temperatures, but GFlops remain equivalent to stock values (as they should with a stock core clock.)





Spoiler: A stable 4.4 GHz OC using near-stock voltage and maintaining stock VID (VID undocumented.)



*+CPU 44* (a departure from the stock 37)
7234 MB RAM
1.272/1.256 Vpeak/Vdroop
64/74/74/71
154.8 s
119.02 GFlops

18.9% increase in CPU speed results in 15.9% GFlops. Note that Vpeak/Vdroop increased by 1.9% and 1.3% respectively. Thermals increased by 8.5% (maximum) over stock. This is an incredibly efficient overclock and many OC folks would stop right here, given that the 74C peak temp in IBT (the hottest test out there) is still 24C below TJMax and offers a huge margine of safety. Vcore is also a very comfortable value and the performance gain is quite close to the clock increase. The ratio of GFlops Gain vs Core Clock to acheive it is 84.1%





Spoiler: Jumping to 4.6 GHz OC and finding a slightly increased offset through trial and error.



*+CPU 46
+ 0.015 offset* (total value 0.015)
7224 MB RAM
1.288/1.264 Vpeak/Vdroop
67/76/77/73
150.115 s
122.48 GFlops

The results here indicate a 19.3% increase in GFlops at a 24.3% increase in clock speed. The ratio of GFlops gain vs core clock to achieve it is 79.4% Thermals increased over stock by 13.2% Voltages are 3.2% over stock.





Spoiler: Changing many parameters in a long string of iterations to reach 4.7 GHz IBT stable



*+ CPU 47
+ CPU PLL 1.5000
+ 0.055 offset*
7226 MB RAM
1.328/1.296 Vpeak/Vdroop
71/81/80/77
147.182 s
124.97 GFlops

Note that I did not jump right to these PLL and offset changes. Moving from 4.6 GHz to 4.7 GHz was not nearly as easy as jumping straight to 4.4 GHz from stock or letting the automatic regulations hit 4.6 GHz stable with minimal effort. This was the result of about 20 iterations of successive testing in order to get IBT stable at the lowest possible voltage values. It's safe to say, given the sharp increase in voltage required to hit a 47 stable multiplier that I hit a small voltage wall here.

I have gained 21.7% in GFlops over stock at a 27% clock increase. The ratio of Gflops to clock to achieve it is 69.5% Voltages are 6.4% over stock. Thermals are 19.1% over stock.





Spoiler: Concluding that a 4.8GHz was not a wall worth pushing through in terms of temperature or voltage or in terms of the -reduction- in CPU computational power.



*+CPU 48
+ LLC Medium (25%)
+ CPU PLL 1.4875
+ 0.060 offset
+Spread Spect. Off* (Spread Spectrum began to introduce random instability here and had to be disabled.)
7233 MB RAM
1.368/1.344 Vpeak/Vdroop
83/91/90/85
158.240 s
120.21 GFlops

I went on to test 4.8 GHz to see what sort of performance gains I could expect and to see how big my voltage wall was that I hit. (I know that this chip is 5.0 GHz capable but I hit an even bigger voltage wall at the 4.9 and again at the 5.0 GHz mark and the throttling due to excessive power consumption was so bad, that I considered 4.8 GHz to be a practical limit in terms of performance efficiency.

So I have a 9.6% voltage increase a massive 33.8% thermal increase with a totally unacceptable temperature here. I can get that temperature and voltage lower by reducing the CPU Current Capacity, but them I will throttle the GFlops sooner. In fact, you can see that I have a reduced GFlops in this test as compared to the prior test. There's definitely a wall here and it's not worth trying to overcome it.

So I returned to my last known value of 4.7GHz and attempted to increase its efficiency...





Spoiler: Optimizing 4.7 GHz for maximum computational performance. Note the significant performance gain over the previous 4.7 GHz clock, based on -disabling- elevated LLC values.



*- CPU 47
- LLC Regular (0%)
+ CPU PLL 1.50625
+ 0.060 offset*
7199 MB RAM
1.328 Vpeak / 1.296 Vdroop
143.819 s
127.1583 GFlops
74C 84C 85C 81C
145.8 W peak

As you can see, I've managed to gain an extra 2 GFlops over the previous 4.7 GHz run at the exact same voltages. I did this by increasing PLL slightly and increasing the offset slightly, which had almost no measurable effect on voltages but did impact power consumption and thermals. Voltages are increased by 6.4%, thermals by 25%, CPU clock speed is the same 27% increase but now the GFlops increase is 23.84% My GFlops to core clock ratio improved to 88.3%

In terms of performance to clock ratio, this is about the best it gets with an OC and voltages are very reasonable. Although the thermal increase is also 25%, proportionate to my computing power (GFlops) increase, if you take into account that I'm allowing 145.8 W peak vs 95W peak reference, that's a 53.5% increase in electrical power consumption with only a 25% increase in thermal value. This is what separates a good heat-sink/fan from an inferior one. This is also the point where the water cooling guys come in and tell me how water cooling is even better. (And water cooling is better; I just couldn't afford it.)

The problem is that I'm only BSOD 0x0101 stable here (min Vcore) and I am still going to experience Prime95 Large FFT failures and folding inaccuracy and I'll crash in BF3 as well all with BSOD 0x0124 values due to insufficient Vcore at Vdroop levels or due to wildly cycling transients exceeding VID due to large offset and quick unload. I tried increasing the 350MHz phase count to a higher value but I wasn't any more stable and instead just consumed more electrical power and generated more heat.





Spoiler: Developing the 4.7GHz optimized profile above for maximum stability in a 24/7 environment, and concluding that for -my- system a tiny LLC was needed, but could be optimized for efficiency to -almost- as good as without.



*- PLL Overvoltage Disabled (No need for it, as we boot into Windows (and Linux) just fine.
+ LLC Medium (25%)
+ 0.040 offset*
7178 MB RAM
1.344 Vpeak / 1.320 Vdroop
141.819 s
126.831 GFlops
75C 86C 85C 82C
145.8 W peak

26.5% thermal increase, 9.4% voltage increase, 27% clock increase, 23.5% GFlops increase, and my GFlops percent increase to Core percent increase is 87%. Compared to the last test, I'm slightly less efficient in terms of performance vs core, moderately less efficient in terms of temperatures, and substantially less efficient in terms of voltage. (50% less efficient than the previous test) This drastic reduction in voltage is not a very valid comparison though, as I'm

You'll notice that the peak voltage increased substantially over the last iteration as did the droop voltage. The increase to the peak voltage was a necessary evil in order to guarantee that Vdroop was >= 1.3200V. Any lower than 1.3200V on Vdroop and I would BSOD 0x0124. Now I could go with a LLC of 50% or 75% and bring Vpeak down to 1.328V while maintaining Vdroop >= 1.3200V but the problem with doing that is that my power consumption increased too rapidly with my 140% multiplier and I hit the current limit on the CPU, causing it to throttle down into the 120 to 122 GFlops range in IBT averages again. I could also reduce the CPU Current Limit to 130% or 120% and monkey with voltages but again, I had issues reaching the 126.5 to 127.0 GFlops range and in fact struggled to break 122.0 again.



So the above profile is what I settled on. It has almost as good of a peak GFlops as was previously recorded but is Prime95 Blend Customized for 97% RAM stable for 23 hours. (No screenshot for the sandy stable club updates as I didn't have enough memory to open the extra two or three instances of CPU-Z required and then print-screen. I tried, and I ran out of memory and got weird blank CPU-Z values until I closed the extra Windows and then the Real Temp were displayed again. In hindsight, I should have gone for only 92% memory not 97% memory. (I have my page-file disabled, so 8 GB is the max.)

Regardless, it's BF3 stable, 24/7 folding -smp 4 stable (on a 64 bit linux distro), IBT 25 iterations stable, and benchmark (Cinebench and PCMark) stable. I'm 3DMark stable too, not that a GPU bench should cause crashes, but it's possible.

My temperatures in BF3 are typically in the mid 50s to very low 60s with peaks at 65. (Temperatures are influenced by my GPU acting like a space-heater at this point.) In Prime95 they peak at 79C on the most intensive FFTs and remain a fairly constant 69 to 72C in most other instances. In 24/7 folding on the Linux distro, my peaks are currently 63/70/70/68 and this accomplishes my goal of being <= 70C for all daily operations. and to maintain at least a 10C margin of error from TJMax in the most aggressive heat-generating software out there. (IBT) I'll never hit Prime95 in-place small FFT or Linpack/IBT stress levels in the real world for more than a few seconds and even that's a stretch.

On a fixed voltage scheme, I can reach 5.0 GHz stable (albeit with high temperatures) and not have Vdroop issues. However, I don't like the idea of my core remaining in a higher voltage state 24/7 nor do I like the added fan noise or sensitivity to ambient temperature fluctuations.


----------



## sceptre155

Hey guys,

Building my first machine in 5 years and running into some issues. I've always overclocked in the past, but I'm running into a few issues that I'm not sure about.

System
I5-2500k
P8Z68 V-pro Gen3
16 gigs of corsair vengeance CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9B
PC3-12800 (1600MHz) SPD Speed1333Mhz SPD Latency9-9-9-24
Corsair TX850
Coolmaster 212 evo
Thermaltake level gt snow case
2 X 3870's
Corsair Force GT SSD 120 gigs.

I've run into intermediate Issues with getting red warning about the PCIE not being connected to the videocards. I have 6 different PCIE. I've found justt unplugging and reconnecting the pcie rebooting will fix the problem. Those ancient videocards don't use much power, I'm wondering if it sees the low voltage and assumes... I'm replacing these as soon as the ATI 7000's series comes out.

My main issue is trying to over clock this machine.

I've tried the bios, The TPU switch , And the Turbov Evo utility. All result in the same end. I actually just trying to select Performance in the basic Bios mode has the same problem.

The machine reboots.. 2-5 times then powers on, but I have no video signal. No beeps, All the LED"s on the MB are happy. I've let it sit for 20 minutes. Nothing.....

I have to jump the cmos to get back up and running. With the Turbov Evo, after jumping the CMos and going back into windows Turbov evo auto tuning starts to run again, but doesn't work. I should mention that manually changing the CPU multiplier in Turbov Evo does nothing. It won't stick and even tho is says im trying to run at 41 multiplier its not.

I've flashed to the latest bios..

I'm really at a loss.. In the old days when you hit clock speeds or whatever that wouldnt work. I'm used to blue screens... Getting stuck during posting Motherboard beeps etc.... I have no idea what this rebooting several times to a black screen means.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> I've run into intermediate Issues with getting red warning about the PCIE not being connected to the videocards. I have 6 different PCIE. I've found justt unplugging and reconnecting the pcie rebooting will fix the problem. Those ancient videocards don't use much power, I'm wondering if it sees the low voltage and assumes... I'm replacing these as soon as the ATI 7000's series comes out.
> 
> My main issue is trying to over clock this machine.
> 
> I've tried the bios, The TPU switch , And the Turbov Evo utility. All result in the same end. I actually just trying to select Performance in the basic Bios mode has the same problem.
> 
> The machine reboots.. 2-5 times then powers on, but I have no video signal. No beeps, All the LED"s on the MB are happy. I've let it sit for 20 minutes. Nothing.....
> 
> I have to jump the cmos to get back up and running. With the Turbov Evo, after jumping the CMos and going back into windows Turbov evo auto tuning starts to run again, but doesn't work. I should mention that manually changing the CPU multiplier in Turbov Evo does nothing. It won't stick and even tho is says im trying to run at 41 multiplier its not.
> 
> I've flashed to the latest bios..
> 
> I'm really at a loss.. In the old days when you hit clock speeds or whatever that wouldnt work. I'm used to blue screens... Getting stuck during posting Motherboard beeps etc.... I have no idea what this rebooting several times to a black screen means.
> 
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


You have 16 GB of RAM. Start by removing two of the DIMM so that you have a 4 GB DIMM in slots #2 and #4 with slots #1 and #3 empty.

See if that fixes the problem. Start with just one video card as well. Work on dual cards later.

Did you make sure to revert the BIOS to stock settings before you updated it? It's dangerous to update the BIOS while you're overclocked. You might try backing down to stock settings and then re-flashing the BIOS from stock settings (after removing two DIMM and one video card.)

From there, I'd suggest that you not mess with the automated OC Tuner or the AI Suite.

Instead, follow the outline I gave in the post right before yours....


----------



## sceptre155

Thank you for the quick reply.

I'll try yanking out some ram and 1 video card. And I was set to default Bios settings before I flashed. I'll try it again after I try the ram and video card. Is it possible that it's trying to output to the built in video port? Someone here at work just kinda through it out their.

I'll stick to just OC'ing in the bios. Just thought I'd try out the new fancy tools. Seems they haven't gotten any better over the years eh?

oh, and I haven't been able to boot to windows at all by changing any overclocking features. I always end up having to jump the cmos to get a video signal back.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> Thank you for the quick reply.
> 
> I'll try yanking out some ram and 1 video card. And I was set to default Bios settings before I flashed. I'll try it again after I try the ram and video card. Is it possible that it's trying to output to the built in video port? Someone here at work just kinda through it out their.
> 
> I'll stick to just OC'ing in the bios. Just thought I'd try out the new fancy tools. Seems they haven't gotten any better over the years eh?
> 
> oh, and I haven't been able to boot to windows at all by changing any overclocking features. I always end up having to jump the cmos to get a video signal back.


EDIT: You're welcome!

The Asus OC tweak in the BIOS clocks my CPU at 4.4 GHz and 1.34 Vcore. (I was able to achieve this same speed on stock voltages....)
Asus AI Suite II (when I played with it) clocked my CPU at 4.841 GHz and 1.44 Vcore (at load in Prime95, I wasn't even about to mess with IBT on it.) It was also giving me a 103BCLK to do it and it was de-clocking my memory on "Extreme"
And the Asus AI Suite II had my CPU at a more sane 100 x 47 with normal XMP memory profile at 1.39 Vcore.

I have no clue how stability was on any of them as I only used them as a litmus test.

Now I've managed to manually tweak for a 4.7 GHz with the same XMP profile at 1.344 Vcore (absolute max) and it's a more efficient clock that's bench-marking higher than previously. The AI Suite II was surprisingly good at what it did, it just put a bit too much voltage and power to the board for my tastes.

I tried them out just to see how they worked and they actually gave me a fairly good idea of what the card should be reasonably capable of without resorting to extreme measures but if you're using memory modules that aren't on a qualified vendor list or you're trying to populate 16 GB of RAM on there, you're going to run into issues.

My suspicion is the RAM. You may find that your system is much faster with only 8 GB of RAM installed. (And even with your page file disabled, I highly doubt that you are doing heavy enough 2D/3D rendering to actually use more than 8 GB of RAM.) I really try to talk people out of buying 16 GB DIMM solutions, especially if it's spread out over 4 DIMM. Our motherboards like it best if you populate half of the DIMM slots and choose a RAM amount that is the minimum (allowing for some overhead) for you to run all of your favorite games or applications (individually) along with your background processes and come within about 80% of capacity.

For example, with BF3 on Ultra at 1920x1200 and Origin, Steam, Skype, Trillian, 8 tabs in Firefox, CPU-Z, Real Temp, NVidia Monitor, Avast! Comodo, my Logitech wireless stuff, and all of the standard windows services running (I was deliberately bloating my system as much as possible) I managed to get my 8 GB of RAM up to about the 5.6 GB occupied mark. I had 2.4 GB to spare.

I'd actually be running 4 GB of RAM, but it's just not quite enough with the page file disabled after long sessions of BF3, so 8 GB it is.

16 GB would be an electrical load that would reduce my OC stability, reduce my memory throughput, cost me more money, generate more heat, put more stress on my motherboard controllers, and do absolutely _nothing for me_ unless I decided to fire up AutoDesk or SolidWorks and edit an absolutely monstrous 3d drawing or maybe render some insanely complex 3Dstudio or Maya stuff...


----------



## sceptre155

That makes total sense about the RAM. I figured I wouldn't be using most of it. But i never gave the rest of it much thought. Extra voltage etc..... I still have the ability to take the Ram back. I figured since it was fairly cheap, 100 bucks for 16 gigs I figured why not. Double checking my Ram on the QVL My dimms are on the list. But I notice it only talks about 2x4 8 gig capacities.

On a side note, I had read about turning the windows page file off. I figured with the SSD drive I wouldn't hardly notice.

I love the motherboard. The new bios is very nice. It sure is a whole lot easier to OC with then it was to make that dip switch board for the 300 Celeron a bazillion years ago







IT was kinda fun tho heheh

Oh and... If i take the 16 gigs back, maybe I'll just get faster ram. What's your opinion on that? The benchmarks I've seen don't show much of a increase. But is their a speed that helps with OC's? I'm not looking to OC to the extreme. I like to tinker around a bit. Most of the stuff I do is GPU dependent. But occasionally I'll do some encoding etc...


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> That makes total sense about the RAM. I figured I wouldn't be using most of it. But i never gave the rest of it much thought. Extra voltage etc..... I still have the ability to take the Ram back. I figured since it was fairly cheap, 100 bucks for 16 gigs I figured why not. Double checking my Ram on the QVL My dimms are on the list. But I notice it only talks about 2x4 8 gig capacities.


Bingo! Most boards don't like fully populated DIMMs and require overvoltage or underclocking to be stable with them. Also, considering you can get a nice 2x4 GB = 8 GB 1600 CL9 kit of Ripjaws or Vengeance for $30, I'd say $100 for 16 GB was not such a hot deal. In fact, for $45 or so you can get some nice 1600 CL8 ripjaws or vengeances. (More on that later.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> On a side note, I had read about turning the windows page file off. I figured with the SSD drive I wouldn't hardly notice.


I don't own a SSD but I was under the impression that if you have a SSD exclusively that Windows defaults to disable your page file (otherwise you wear your SSD out really fast) and if you have SSD + HDD that windows moves your page file to the HDD by default so as to not have constant read/writes to your SSD. Or maybe that's wrong... I know for sure that you are not supposed to defragment a SSD. Maybe Windows does use a pagefile on them but it distributes it over the SSD with the TRIM functions? I recall reading something about it but I'm too lazy to google right now.

It's a moot point if you disable your page file so I'm going to stop talking about SSDs before I say something wrong. I do know that too many write cycles kills them though and I highly doubt that you will need a page file or exceed your 8 GB of RAM planned limit. I haven't used a page file since Windows 98 SE on any system I've ever worked with except for when I had to edit satellite photographs that were at insanely high resolutions. (We had an entire hard drive dedicated as our page file for that stuff....)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> I love the motherboard. The new bios is very nice. It sure is a whole lot easier to OC with then it was to make that dip switch board for the 300 Celeron a bazillion years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IT was kinda fun tho heheh
> 
> Oh and... If i take the 16 gigs back, maybe I'll just get faster ram. What's your opinion on that? The benchmarks I've seen don't show much of a increase. But is their a speed that helps with OC's? I'm not looking to OC to the extreme. I like to tinker around a bit. Most of the stuff I do is GPU dependent. But occasionally I'll do some encoding etc...


As far as faster RAM goes, it doesn't really do a huge deal for you and you wouldn't notice it at all in every day use or in gaming. Where you will notice it is benchmarks and also in 24/7 folding on some of the heftier WUs, if you're into that sort of thing. It's a personal choice; it _is_ faster but it's definitely not faster per dollar in terms of a performance to price ratio. You pay quite a bit more for CL8 and you get a diminishing return from it.

That being said, I wouldn't go lower than 1600 CL9. Luckily, RAM is cheap.


----------



## Salty85

Hello, since its the owners club, love my new rig... if only skyrim on crossfire worked ;-)


----------



## sceptre155

Shad0wfax.... You sir are a genius. I ran home ...walked in the door did not pass go or collect 200 bucks. Gf was a bit miffed... lol Anyways went straight to my computer and yanked out the dimms in slot 1 and 3. And take a wild guess what happened next. BAMM !! 4300 mghz

It's the ram. You were right. I also noticed that just about all the over clocking features try and increase the ram speed, which casues Blue screens.But I can deal with blue screens... the reboots with no vga output was frustrating.

You've been a huge help. I need to run get some dinner and say hi to the GF before the lazor beams of death start burning holes....

I'm going to take the ram back and pick up some 1833 or something. We'll see what the prices are like... will probably be the deciding factor. Figure I have 100 bucks to spend on two dimms and put some money back in my pocket.

I want to take a more detailed look at the guide you posted.


----------



## Overclockname

Noticed on the ASUS website that there is a newer BIOS update for the P8Z68-v pro/gen3 that I have.

I have not yet completed my system or started it up yet, but: is it worth while to update the BIOS if there are no issues present? Or should I do like the manual says and _not_ update it (bios) unless I am having a problem. The process looks pretty straight forward using the "EZ Flash 2" and a usb drive from reading the manual. But then again, I'm a newbie and "don't know what I don't know."

And after reading Shad0wfax and sceptre's conversation, it looks like I'll be removing 2 of my RAM Dimms as well........Oh well. Live and learn...


----------



## sceptre155

Well in the old days, flashing a MB was iffy. If it froze in the middle of flashing it was usually a brick. I think its gotten alot better. I havent bricked anything in years. Usually I'll look at the release notes. If it isn't anything i care about I usually just skip it.

Running at 4.1 atm. mor eor less on stock settings minus turning up cpu increase to 110%.

I uninstalled the asus suit 2 stuff. And made all the bios changes in the ai tuning menu.

I'll run it at these speeds for a bit untill i get more time to play.

Any recommended Motherboard monitoring software folks like these days? I see a few at the begining of the thread. Just wondering which are more popular.


----------



## dennyb

HWINFO 64 program is very nice along with Real Temp 3.69.1 is what I use . Oh, and CPUZ of course


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> Shad0wfax.... You sir are a genius. I ran home ...walked in the door did not pass go or collect 200 bucks. Gf was a bit miffed... lol Anyways went straight to my computer and yanked out the dimms in slot 1 and 3. And take a wild guess what happened next. BAMM !! 4300 mghz
> 
> It's the ram. You were right. I also noticed that just about all the over clocking features try and increase the ram speed, which casues Blue screens.But I can deal with blue screens... the reboots with no vga output was frustrating.
> 
> You've been a huge help. I need to run get some dinner and say hi to the GF before the lazor beams of death start burning holes....
> 
> I'm going to take the ram back and pick up some 1833 or something. We'll see what the prices are like... will probably be the deciding factor. Figure I have 100 bucks to spend on two dimms and put some money back in my pocket.
> 
> I want to take a more detailed look at the guide you posted.


Hah, I'm glad that fixed it for you. It could have been any number of things, but RAM was simply the most likely. What you've stumbled upon in the "automated" overclocking features is one of the major flaws in them; they try to monkey with RAM timings too much and that's almost never a good idea. (The other flaw with the automated OC suites is that they tend to provide a bit too much voltage.) Not all DIMM are created equal either; you may get more performance from a 1600 CL8 than you would from a 1833 CL11. Furthermore, our SB mobos work really well with 1600 and often do not work well above that. Ivy Bridge is slated to go up to 2133 or even higher though.

If I were you, I'd say that you can go with some nice G.Skill Ripjaws 1600 CL9 for $30 and use the $70 to treat your girlfriend! (Or you can get some 1600 CL8 modules and treat her a bit less.







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclockname*
> 
> Noticed on the ASUS website that there is a newer BIOS update for the P8Z68-v pro/gen3 that I have.
> 
> I have not yet completed my system or started it up yet, but: is it worth while to update the BIOS if there are no issues present? Or should I do like the manual says and _not_ update it (bios) unless I am having a problem. The process looks pretty straight forward using the "EZ Flash 2" and a usb drive from reading the manual. But then again, I'm a newbie and "don't know what I don't know."
> 
> And after reading Shad0wfax and sceptre's conversation, it looks like I'll be removing 2 of my RAM Dimms as well........Oh well. Live and learn...


I think the 4 GB packages being available confuse many new purchasers and many new purchasers believe that "bigger is better" which is the case in most of what we do; unfortunately it's dead wrong for RAM. The truly extreme benchers who flagellate with liquid Nitrogen runs and such, typically use only 2 GB or 4 GB of RAM in 2 DIMM simply because it allows them the most headroom in overclocking and presents the least load to the memory controllers while still booting the OS and running their bench programs and such.

I tend to recommend 8 GB (2x4 GB) for a dual-channel motherboard and 6 GB or 12 GB (3x2GB or 3x4 GB) for a triple-channel board. (There are some boards out there with triple-channel that have 6 DIMM slots and again, it's best to populate half of them.)

As for updating your BIOS, I'd read all of the changelogs and consult with other users here before doing it. Once in a while an update will harm your performance. _Usually_ it's best to have the latest BIOS though. *Make sure you are not overclocked when you flash your BIOS and always flash from the EZFlash boot menu or the USBFlash from a boot. Never flash a BIOS from within the OS!* I can't emphasize that enough. Asus may provide you with a program to update your BIOS from within the OS and it may work for some people but it's also the number one cause of bricked motherboards! Avoid that like the plague and always use a USB flash drive and do it from a boot menu!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> Well in the old days, flashing a MB was iffy. If it froze in the middle of flashing it was usually a brick. I think its gotten alot better. I havent bricked anything in years. Usually I'll look at the release notes. If it isn't anything i care about I usually just skip it.
> 
> Running at 4.1 atm. mor eor less on stock settings minus turning up cpu increase to 110%.
> 
> I uninstalled the asus suit 2 stuff. And made all the bios changes in the ai tuning menu.
> 
> I'll run it at these speeds for a bit untill i get more time to play.
> 
> Any recommended Motherboard monitoring software folks like these days? I see a few at the begining of the thread. Just wondering which are more popular.


After uninstalling the Asus Suite II, make sure that you also clean up your registry and verify that the services for it have stopped as well. It likes to leave pieces of itself behind. If you're not too far into it, you might even consider a fresh OS install over your current one, just so that you know that you're clean. I'd recommend a fresh install, but I'm also a bit OCD when it comes to that.


----------



## Overclockname

Thanks guys. Good info.
Quote:


> Make sure you are not overclocked when you flash your BIOS and always flash from the EZFlash boot menu or the USBFlash from a boot. Never flash a BIOS from within the OS! I can't emphasize that enough


Yeah, after reading through the manual it looked like the "ez flash 2" was about the only way I was gonna attempt this, if at all. Seemed to be the least troublesome. I would do it first thing, before I "mess" with anything. Thanks for the warnings.

I'm also getting the impression, from reading here and other places, that I shouldn't bother installing most of the mobo software that came with it. Anything worthwhile in it at all?

I'm dead in the water until I get a new keyboard anyway. Slight oversight on my part: the only 2 keyboards in the house are PS/2 connection. The v pro/gen3 only has usb connection.......









Has anybody downloaded BIOS version 0402 for the v-pro/gen3? The good, the bad, the ugly about it?
The description says: "1. Improve system stability" and "2. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at:" Improve system stability is what intrigued me. I'm all about stable systems.... LOL

The "description" is all I find.


----------



## sceptre155

You're not kidding.... It left pieces all over the place. All of the directories etc... are still sitting in the program folders. Services look like they have stopped. I may just nuke it and start over. Seeing how it took like 10 minutes tops to install the first time. Think I'll make a image this time. Win7 64 bit took 30 gigs of HD space.... crazy. I'd love to find a slim install version. I've never really worried about it in the past, but now that i have a 120 gig ssd. I dont feel like loading it up with crap. Need to save room for some games









I'm going to give those programs DennyB sugested a shot first.

Ran into a BSOD after running for a hour or so @ 4300, same with 4100 and 3700. No heavy loads. Seems it may be video related. I notice some artifacts a split second before the crashes. Temps all see fine. CPU is running in the high 20's C by the time it reboots and i can get in the bios again. I'm still wondering about the ram. It's seen the sticks as 1333 a few times. I think I'll set the speed static in the bios and run it for a few.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclockname*
> 
> I'm also getting the impression, from reading here and other places, that I shouldn't bother installing most of the mobo software that came with it. Anything worthwhile in it at all?
> 
> Has anybody downloaded BIOS version 0402 for the v-pro/gen3? The good, the bad, the ugly about it?
> The description says: "1. Improve system stability" and "2. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at:" Improve system stability is what intrigued me. I'm all about stable systems.... LOL
> 
> The "description" is all I find.


I edited a few pieces of your post out of your quote so as to slim it down some and just reply to those that I am knowledgeable about.

Here is a list of the software on the Asus Installation CD that I found to be useful and/or necessary to install.


Intel_Chipset_*
Intel_LAN_*
NEC_USB3_*
Realtek_Audio_* (I only installed the drivers for this one, not the added software.)
I did not bother installing anything else from the Asus CDs on my second time around. (The first time around I installed everything possible.)
There's no need to install the Intel Rapid Storage Technology unless you are going to be using a RAID (or at least a striped array of some kind)
Also, you can disable the Marvell controller in your BIOS and avoid installing the Marvell software or drivers if you are not using 3 or more SATA III (6.0 gb/s) devices.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> You're not kidding.... It left pieces all over the place. All of the directories etc... are still sitting in the program folders. Services look like they have stopped. I may just nuke it and start over. Seeing how it took like 10 minutes tops to install the first time. Think I'll make a image this time. Win7 64 bit took 30 gigs of HD space.... crazy. I'd love to find a slim install version. I've never really worried about it in the past, but now that i have a 120 gig ssd. I dont feel like loading it up with crap. Need to save room for some games
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to give those programs DennyB sugested a shot first.
> 
> Ran into a BSOD after running for a hour or so @ 4300, same with 4100 and 3700. No heavy loads. Seems it may be video related. I notice some artifacts a split second before the crashes. Temps all see fine. CPU is running in the high 20's C by the time it reboots and i can get in the bios again. I'm still wondering about the ram. It's seen the sticks as 1333 a few times. I think I'll set the speed static in the bios and run it for a few.


Yeah, the un-install is not a clean un-install at all. The directories are orphaned and there are registry keys everywhere. The earlier versions even left services enabled but the later version disabled them (but didn't remove them). I think the latest version actually removes the service entries entirely. Either way, if you're not using it, it's bloat and it's a real pain in the rear to eliminate the orphans, even with CCleaner.

Real Temp and CPU-Z are the same programs that I use to monitor my temperatures and voltage and frequency respectively. HWInfo-64 is good, but I don't use it as it's redundant.

If your RAM is sticking at 1333 just set it to XMP for the RAM profile or manually set the frequency at 1600 and leave the timings on Auto and force the BIOS to accept it.


----------



## Papaace

Hello, i've found this awesome thread and thought i could post my problem here^^
I've got a Intel Core i5 2500k and for cpu cooling a Sycthe Mugen 3.
My Mianboard is a Asus P8Z68 V-GEN3 Board
For an hour i had a problem, my CPU went on 4,3 GHZ and the cores warmed up to 80-90 °c .
So i thought *** and rebooted.
Then my CPU when it does nothing is on 1648 mhz and all core have a tempature from 32 °C - 35°C .
Then i've downloaded prime 95 and started a stress test and then the temperature of my cores went to 80 °C again.
Wold be nice if someone can explain me what to do
I'm very sorry for my bad english


----------



## xSociety

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclockname*
> 
> Thanks guys. Good info.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you are not overclocked when you flash your BIOS and always flash from the EZFlash boot menu or the USBFlash from a boot. Never flash a BIOS from within the OS! I can't emphasize that enough
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, after reading through the manual it looked like the "ez flash 2" was about the only way I was gonna attempt this, if at all. Seemed to be the least troublesome. I would do it first thing, before I "mess" with anything. Thanks for the warnings.
> I'm also getting the impression, from reading here and other places, that I shouldn't bother installing most of the mobo software that came with it. Anything worthwhile in it at all?
> I'm dead in the water until I get a new keyboard anyway. Slight oversight on my part: the only 2 keyboards in the house are PS/2 connection. The v pro/gen3 only has usb connection.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anybody downloaded BIOS version 0402 for the v-pro/gen3? The good, the bad, the ugly about it?
> The description says: "1. Improve system stability" and "2. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at:" Improve system stability is what intrigued me. I'm all about stable systems.... LOL
> The "description" is all I find.
Click to expand...

Yea, I updated my BIOS with a flash drive and had zero problems with doing so.


----------



## speedlever

I know it's considered bad form, but I've had no issues updating BIOS from AI Suite II via a file on the HD or from the BIOS loader itself with a flash drive.

That being said, I'm finding that I regret loading all the crap that you get when you go to the d/l page and get everything for your new mobo.

I may end up doing a reinstall when time allows, just to clean out the junk.


----------



## chillar15

Can anyone recommend a good CPU cooler? I'm running a 2600k, Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3, and 4x4 GB Corsair Vengeance 1600 Mhz (inside a Cooler Master Stacker 830 case). I don't have a budget and I don't want to build a water cooling loop, but I need something that doesn't cover any of the RAM slots. So far all I can find to fit my needs is a Corsair H100 or Thermalright Archon Rev. A.

Anyone else have ideas? Can anyone confirm the Archon will fit the P8Z68-V without covering any RAM slots?

Thanks! Will rep anyone that can help me at all!


----------



## speedlever

I'm using a CM Hyper 212+ with dual fans. The intake fan is close to the first slot, but it works for me. If you have a really tall and wide HS on the ram in the first slot, it could interfere.

I have 2x4GB G..Skill 1333 and 2x2GB AData 1333 currently in my 4 slots.. I have a new set of 4x4GB G.Skill 1600 coming.


----------



## sceptre155

I have a cool master 212 evo. I did have a corsair vengeance chip in dimm one that I recently took out do to issues. But on a side note that cooler fit. Probably had a 3/16 gap left. You could always raise the fan a half inch or so. Can't see that changing the cooling much.


----------



## Overclockname

I as well am using the Cooler master hyper 212 EVO. I have the "low profile" version of the Corsair Vengeance in all four spots (for now). Bought the low profile after reading many reports of RAM not fitting under aftermarket coolers, so I got the LP to avoid any heartburn.

Looking at where my Ram in spot one ends compared to the bottom of the fan, I am guessing it would be close for a normal-height vengeance with the larger heat sink, but I don't have the measurement as to how much taller/wider they are. I will say it does not look as close as I thought it would be, and was a little disappointed that I bought the low profile (oh well, can add that noct. D14 now if need be). The EVO does not extend over the top of the first Dimm spot on my z68 v-pro/gen3, but it is close to the edge. As sceptre155 said, you could raise the fan up a little if need be. Looks like he may have the normal height Vengeance so he would be a better judge of it.

I have not read any bad things about the 212 EVO in my research.


----------



## Overclockname

Shad0wfax, X, Speed, and everyone else: Thanks for the info.


----------



## HeatGuyJ

hey guys, i've run into a bit of an issue.
I have seem to have gotten stability on my rig. running at 4.5ghz and 1.3v w/ CPU temps below 70 after multiple hours of p95.

Just wanting to know if anyone ever got a motherboard high temperature error from Asus Suite II. I was playing Skyrim and checking my temps.
GPU was at 68 C
CPU was at 51 C
But, Asus Suite gave me a warning saying my motherboard was 135 C. I don't know if this is a faulty sensor or if i need to get more cooling for the mobo.
Appreciate if anyone has had any experience with this and could let me know.


----------



## dennyb

Yes ...the Asus suite is very poor and gives lots of false data. most folks uninstall it and use apps such as Real Temp---Cpuz...and HWINFO for reliable data


----------



## sceptre155

I have a pic of the ram and CPU cooler installed. I'll try and post them in a bit. Formatting my drive ATM to clean off the asus suite crap.


----------



## HeatGuyJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> Yes ...the Asus suite is very poor and gives lots of false data. most folks uninstall it and use apps such as Real Temp---Cpuz...and HWINFO for reliable data


the thing is my cpuid hardware monitor showed the same temp. for the motherboard


----------



## skypix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Marvell is fine if you're running your back-up HDD's on it. Otherwise not really.


I've just built a P8Z68 V PRO/GEN 3 system with two Corsair Force GT 3 SSDs hooked up to the Intel SATA 3 and getting 525/580K write/read max on ATTO...when I plugged in two more SSD to the Marvell Sata 3 ports on the board, BSOD city, unstable as hell.









I'm in over my head with this board, but since I disconnected the Marvell again, system seems stable...no crashes in 2 hours...whereas I was getting them all over the place, couldn't even boot sometimes two or three times in a row. Marvell the culprit do you think? Is there no way I can use my SSD in those port? Are the ports good for anything, like regular HDD?

thanks!


----------



## darksandz93

Hey guys I have a quick question, my power supply only has a 4 pin power connector. Can i run the board with the 4 pin and use an adapter for another 4 pin? I do plan on overclocking


----------



## Aaranu

Hey guys just a quick question here. So ive got 2 video cards and a soundcard i have my 2 gpu's in the x16 slots so they are running at x8 each. MY soundcard is in the bottom x4 slot. Just confirming that they are running at 8x 8x and x4 (or 1x for the soundcard)


----------



## dennyb

@ HeatGuy

I can't say about the CPUID Hardware Info showing the same 135C MOBO temp.....but I do know that the Asus Suite is not at all reliable and will give high over volt warnings as well as high temp mobo warnings....and they are both false. I used it when my board was new and experienced the same as you. Other peeps have had the same problem.

I use this app and it is accurate

http://www.hwinfo.com/download64.html

The overclocking features the Asus Suite provides are not up to par either. The best way to a stable OC with these boards is with the "offset" method...and C3/C6 states "off". Turning those C states off eliminates too low of an idle voltage thus eliminating freeze ups @ idle.

Hope this is of value to you









edit: I am referring to the HWINFO Sensor Status app not the System Summary.


----------



## sceptre155

My understanding the Marvell controller is garbage and not recommended. I can't remember the exact details, but it actually has problems.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> My understanding the Marvell controller is garbage and not recommended. I can't remember the exact details, but it actually has problems.


Correct. I have that disabled in BIOS as well.


----------



## HeatGuyJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> @ HeatGuy
> I can't say about the CPUID Hardware Info showing the same 135C MOBO temp.....but I do know that the Asus Suite is not at all reliable and will give high over volt warnings as well as high temp mobo warnings....and they are both false. I used it when my board was new and experienced the same as you. Other peeps have had the same problem.
> I use this app and it is accurate
> http://www.hwinfo.com/download64.html
> The overclocking features the Asus Suite provides are not up to par either. The best way to a stable OC with these boards is with the "offset" method...and C3/C6 states "off". Turning those C states off eliminates too low of an idle voltage thus eliminating freeze ups @ idle.
> Hope this is of value to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I am referring to the HWINFO Sensor Status app not the System Summary.


Thanks for the tip. I started using HW Info now. Will continue to monitor to see how the temperatures look.
I actually didn't use AI Suite to overclock. I followed the oc.net official sandy bridge overclock thread. I guess now it's just time to uninstall AI Suite









I'll let you know if the temperature go out of whack again.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papaace*
> 
> Hello, i've found this awesome thread and thought i could post my problem here^^
> I've got a Intel Core i5 2500k and for cpu cooling a Sycthe Mugen 3.
> My Mianboard is a Asus P8Z68 V-GEN3 Board
> For an hour i had a problem, my CPU went on 4,3 GHZ and the cores warmed up to 80-90 °c .
> So i thought *** and rebooted.
> Then my CPU when it does nothing is on 1648 mhz and all core have a tempature from 32 °C - 35°C .
> Then i've downloaded prime 95 and started a stress test and then the temperature of my cores went to 80 °C again.
> Wold be nice if someone can explain me what to do
> I'm very sorry for my bad english


Stress tests at 80C aren't necessarily _bad._ You could invest in a better CPU cooler to keep temperatures lower. 98C is where the CPU turns itself down due to overheating. Most people consider 75 to 85C to be the maximum allowable during a stress test.

85C is a bit high for 4.3GHz but you probably are on stock heatsink and fan, so that's "normal" and nothing to worry about. Just don't try to overclock until you get a better heat-sink and fan.


----------



## Overclockname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> My understanding the Marvell controller is garbage and not recommended. I can't remember the exact details, but it actually has problems.


and from Dennyb:
Quote:


> Correct. I have that disabled in BIOS as well.


So...if you disable the marvell controller on a z68-v pro/gen3, which seems to be the thing to do (I believe Shad0wfax recommended it as well) does that mean you lose 2 of your 6.0 gb sata 3 connections, or can those be "converted" over to the intel controller? I was really hoping to use those other two 6.0's for my data HDD's.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclockname*
> 
> and from Dennyb:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Correct. I have that disabled in BIOS as well.
> 
> 
> 
> So...if you disable the marvell controller on a z68-v pro/gen3, which seems to be the thing to do (I believe Shad0wfax recommended it as well) does that mean you lose 2 of your 6.0 gb sata 3 connections, or can those be "converted" over to the intel controller? I was really hoping to use those other two 6.0's for my data HDD's.
Click to expand...

If you are going to run short of Sata connections then leave the Marvell ones enabled and use them for optical drives. My board has 4 light blue...2 light gray (white?) and 2 navy blue sata connections. The Navy blue ones are the supposed trouble makers and I have them disabled in BIOS and use "all" of the others as I have 6 tb of drive space.

edit: it is my understanding that no HDD or SSD can make full use of the lesser speed ports much less the 6gb ports...so ,not a loss of efficiency


----------



## sceptre155

Like Dennyb suggested, I believe that optical,drives are fine on the Marvell controller.


----------



## alancsalt

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2143102

http://3dmark.com/3dm06/16299070

Subbed.


----------



## dartuil

where is the sata marvell on the le model?
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68V_LE/#specifications


----------



## Tyreman

Isn't that board intels?
Z-68 3 and 6 G/ps


----------



## dartuil

yes its z68


----------



## MercurySteam

Hey guys. So the 0902 BIOS version on my mobo is causing my speakers to disconnect and reconnect randomly, causing audio cutouts for a couple of seconds. I'm really pissed off that I can't downgrade the BIOS either.

Any suggestions?

Someone actually started a thread about this issue: http://www.overclock.net/t/1031476/asus-p8z68-v-pro-realtek-audio-dialog-keeps-popping-up

EDIT: Turns out there's a new BIOS version: 1101

Should I bite the bullet and try to upgrade or not? I can't think of anything much worse than the previous BIOS update which is also causing the mobo to report CPU temps 10 degree lower than they actually are.


----------



## sceptre155

Cool master 212evo Corsair Vengeance.



I should mention I have the CPU fan raised about 1/4 of a inch. It does have room to go down but it's a pita.


----------



## dujo11

hi all..
Is it 65 C too hot for i5 2500k with Prime 64 loaded for 6 hours
with Sychte Katana 3000 at 1850 rpm. Fan can go up to 2600 rpm
On stock clock 3.7GHz (Turbo)


----------



## uniwarking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dujo11*
> 
> hi all..
> Is it 65 C too hot for i5 2500k with Prime 64 loaded for 6 hours
> with Sychte Katana 3000 at 1850 rpm. Fan can go up to 2600 rpm
> On stock clock 3.7GHz (Turbo)


65C should be fine... I personally wouldn't go above 75c for everyday use but thats just me. Many will tell you that you're good even into 80c territory.

If you plan to OC, I'd look into a better cooler.


----------



## dujo11

what i cant understand....
In Idle i have for core's 35 37 42 36 C..
with prime loaded 61 60 66 59 C after 6 hours and cooler at 70% rpm.. it is a bit loud at 100% rpm
Does MB bios has affect on Cpu core temps?
Because MB shows much lower temp... arround 58 C
Now most of peeps say they have 55c with prime95 loaded with same cooler.. ***? are they laying or what?
or i have bought really bad cpu?


----------



## BWG

I will not add anymore people or be active in this thread. I've lost my interest for the OCN after the Layout change.

You still mad? lol


----------



## skypix

Thanks for the several suggestions re the not-so-Marvellous dark blue thingies. I'll try the optical drive suggestion, that makes a lot of sense and I can set up my other two SSD and two 2 TB HDD to the available four light blue SATA 2 ports.

I've also swapped out my G Skill 16GB Ripjaws X mem (4x4GB) for two 8GB sticks that Crucial guarantees are compatible with the Pro/Gen 3 board...the only 8 GB sticks they recommend. Maybe that'll help too, I'm at wits end trying to figure out these random BSODs.

Thanks again for the thoughts, very helpful.


----------



## Tyreman

Make sure you have good case airflow as well.


----------



## chillidog

well personaly i don't think it's nothing to do with updating the bios,1101 will do nothing.
i had mine p8z68-v pro since march and i had no problems with this.have you checked all cornections are on right on the board etc
might be wrong but worth checking.have you checked the audio settings in the bios?


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skypix*
> 
> Thanks for the several suggestions re the not-so-Marvellous dark blue thingies. I'll try the optical drive suggestion, that makes a lot of sense and I can set up my other two SSD and two 2 TB HDD to the available four light blue SATA 2 ports.
> I've also swapped out my G Skill 16GB Ripjaws X mem (4x4GB) for two 8GB sticks that Crucial guarantees are compatible with the Pro/Gen 3 board...the only 8 GB sticks they recommend. Maybe that'll help too, I'm at wits end trying to figure out these random BSODs.
> Thanks again for the thoughts, very helpful.


According to the P8Z68-V Pro manual, the Marvell ports are for data drives only. (pg 2-23).


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> well personaly i don't think it's nothing to do with updating the bios,1101 will do nothing.
> i had mine p8z68-v pro since march and i had no problems with this.have you checked all cornections are on right on the board etc
> might be wrong but worth checking.have you checked the audio settings in the bios?


I assume this is aimed at me? Everything was fined until I updated to 0902. Plus an entire thread of people with the same issue can't all be wrong. Right?


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillar15*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good CPU cooler? I'm running a 2600k, Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3, and 4x4 GB Corsair Vengeance 1600 Mhz (inside a Cooler Master Stacker 830 case). I don't have a budget and I don't want to build a water cooling loop, but I need something that doesn't cover any of the RAM slots. So far all I can find to fit my needs is a Corsair H100 or Thermalright Archon Rev. A.
> Anyone else have ideas? Can anyone confirm the Archon will fit the P8Z68-V without covering any RAM slots?
> Thanks! Will rep anyone that can help me at all!


I just installed the 4x4GB DDR3-1600 G.Skill Ripjaws X ram. Hooked everything back up and... no POST. Great.

So I yanked the sticks in slots 0 and 2, connected power and it booted up into BIOS. I set the XMP profile and booted into windows just to make sure it would. Shut down and installed the other 2 sticks to bring it up to 16GB... powered up and POSTed normally. Weird how these electronic devices play with us at times.

Regarding the space issue, the G.Skill HS is a bit taller than the one on the AData it replaced. I moved the intake fan up about 1/4-3/8 inch just to make sure the fan and the ram weren't touching. I didn't think it would help that stick of ram to be subject to any continuous vibration. No issues.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> Hey guys. So the 0902 BIOS version on my mobo is causing my speakers to disconnect and reconnect randomly, causing audio cutouts for a couple of seconds. I'm really pissed off that I can't downgrade the BIOS either.
> Any suggestions?.


You can downgrade the BIOS if you think that's the cause or try 1101 like you mentioned.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629404

The downgrade method worked for me and others commenting there.


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> You can downgrade the BIOS if you think that's the cause or try 1101 like you mentioned.
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629404
> The downgrade method worked for me and others commenting there.


Did downgrading fix your issues? If so then what version did you downgrade to?


----------



## Rowey

Moving to 1155 over Christmas, picked up a P8Z68-V for my 2500K. Moving up from an EP45-UD3P and a Q8400, so Im hoping Im going to enjoy this upgrade.



Is there anything i should know before i start overclocking over christmas? BIOS updates, bugs etc.


----------



## BWG

Start here: http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/2490#post_14547852


----------



## aiken74

Hello,
I just bought an P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 and i'm having a SLi issue.

Impossible to have a SLI
Of course Samee card (ASUS GTX560TiX2)

It seems the second PCIE port don't work cause i don"t even see my card in my system.

I have try each card separatlyon port 1 they work!

I have try to boot with only one on port 2...No boot...unforrtunatly i cannot try port 3 because of the size of the card it does'nt fit.

Is there someting i have missed? i checked the entire BIOS without seeing any option to have the second port working.

Thanks for your help and reading my poor english









PS: rest of the PC seems ok Gold power supply 700W I72700K nothing incredible.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rowey*
> 
> Moving to 1155 over Christmas, picked up a P8Z68-V for my 2500K. Moving up from an EP45-UD3P and a Q8400, so Im hoping Im going to enjoy this upgrade.
> 
> Is there anything i should know before i start overclocking over christmas? BIOS updates, bugs etc.


You would definitely enjoy the upgrade as I did come from the same board as yours with a Q6600







Good luck!


----------



## Papaace

Hi is it normal with a core i5 2500k @ 4,3 ghz and a mugen 3 cpu cooler that in prime with blend test the temperature goes @ 75°C?


----------



## echohack

I get those temps at 4.6ghz and using 2600k. Whats the voltage you are using?


----------



## echohack

For anyone with the double boot problem, make sure your hard drive isn't connected to marvels sata. Use the intel sata (any below top) And go into bios and disable it. Worked for me


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Well, guess I'll start with "I'm new here". I just built a new build with a P8Z68-V-LE and a I5 2400k @3.1GHz. Instead of listing all the drives, etc. for now I can tell you I updated the BIOs to the latest (0805). Everything is working fine (haven't tried putting a couple of drives in raid yet, I'll do that later and probably have more problems from what I've been reading). The problem I am having that I want to fix first has to do with the GPU. I'm using the HDMI from the I5 to power my monitor. It's fine for text and a few other things but now I want to play some games and it's just not enough. Before I go buying a new graphics card I want to get my old one working first. It's a BFG 9800GT. I plug it in and hook it to my monitor and nothing. I mean I can't see anything, nothing from the either the card or the (switching back) HDMI. I probably don't have the BIOs set right. I'm not trying to use the Lucid Virtu, just trying to NOT use the I5 for graphics, just use my 9800GT. Any ideas as to what I'm screwing up on? As soon as I take the 9800GT board out of the MB the HDMI works fine. Do I have to use the Lucid Virtu just to use a graphics card? I should think not, so this noob is doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

I see a wealth of info here in the threads, but reading all of the posts is going to take awhile, but I'll eventually read it. Good stuff here..


----------



## skypix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> According to the P8Z68-V Pro manual, the Marvell ports are for data drives only. (pg 2-23).


So it does indeed, thanks, had overlooked that. Checking to make sure (section 3.5.6) that I have the Marvell controller properly configured, I may have overlooked that too.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aiken74*
> 
> Hello,
> I just bought an P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 and i'm having a SLi issue.
> Impossible to have a SLI
> Of course Samee card (ASUS GTX560TiX2)
> It seems the second PCIE port don't work cause i don"t even see my card in my system.
> I have try each card separatlyon port 1 they work!
> I have try to boot with only one on port 2...No boot...unforrtunatly i cannot try port 3 because of the size of the card it does'nt fit.
> Is there someting i have missed? i checked the entire BIOS without seeing any option to have the second port working.
> Thanks for your help and reading my poor english
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: rest of the PC seems ok Gold power supply 700W I72700K nothing incredible.


Just checking the basics.
You have gone into NVIDIA Control Panel and under "Set SLI and PhysX Configuration" you have checked/activated "Maximise 3D Performance" to enable SLI.
You have an SLI bridge fitted to the cards.

EDIT: Oh, you said GTX560Ti*X2*. If they have the same limitation as the GTX460X2, I seem to remember they could not do SLI even though the card had the SLI "finger". Can anyone confirm or refute?


----------



## aiken74

Tanks for ur reponse.

Of course basics are Checked, SLI Bridge Ok (as it seems well in place)

In My Nvidia panel i don"t have sLI and PHYsix, just Physix and so no other option to turn SLI on....

In pretty sure something is worng with their BIOS as it is the first !

For SLi with my cards i'm sure at 99.9% it's possible (SLI Certification on box)

I give me 3 days max to solve this else i'll buy a new motherboard cards and back this one


----------



## jamor

I really want to jump on the ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.1),

because it is $159 ($139) AMR and I definitely don't need Z68 because I have a 120 GB SSD and a dedicated GPU card.

Fits my bill.. Just enough VRM, usb 3.0 front and back, good cooling, and great features/ports.

My only concern is the newegg reviews are riddled with horror stories and the 1 star-reviews add up to almost 20% of the reviews.

Does someone own this and are the reviews just user error and bad drivers?

Someone convince me to jump!


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> Did downgrading fix your issues? If so then what version did you downgrade to?


I haven't experienced this problem. I just did it because there was a way and I wanted away from the 09xx BIOS at the time. I first downgraded to 07xx and then back up to 08xx. Of course since then the 08xx has disappeared so I've updated to 1101. No version has given me a problem you've described (since 04xx something).


----------



## sceptre155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Well, guess I'll start with "I'm new here". I just built a new build with a P8Z68-V-LE and a I5 2400k @3.1GHz. Instead of listing all the drives, etc. for now I can tell you I updated the BIOs to the latest (0805). Everything is working fine (haven't tried putting a couple of drives in raid yet, I'll do that later and probably have more problems from what I've been reading). The problem I am having that I want to fix first has to do with the GPU. I'm using the HDMI from the I5 to power my monitor. It's fine for text and a few other things but now I want to play some games and it's just not enough. Before I go buying a new graphics card I want to get my old one working first. It's a BFG 9800GT. I plug it in and hook it to my monitor and nothing. I mean I can't see anything, nothing from the either the card or the (switching back) HDMI. I probably don't have the BIOs set right. I'm not trying to use the Lucid Virtu, just trying to NOT use the I5 for graphics, just use my 9800GT. Any ideas as to what I'm screwing up on? As soon as I take the 9800GT board out of the MB the HDMI works fine. Do I have to use the Lucid Virtu just to use a graphics card? I should think not, so this noob is doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> I see a wealth of info here in the threads, but reading all of the posts is going to take awhile, but I'll eventually read it. Good stuff here..


Their isn't anything in the bios you should have to change that I know of that would stop you from posting just by adding another videocard. Have you tried the other pcie slots?

I assume you tested the videocard in something else to make sure it's good? I've seen dead cards cause the error you are seeing.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aiken74*
> 
> Tanks for ur reponse.
> Of course basics are Checked, SLI Bridge Ok (as it seems well in place)
> In My Nvidia panel i don"t have sLI and PHYsix, just Physix and so no other option to turn SLI on....
> In pretty sure something is worng with their BIOS as it is the first !
> For SLi with my cards i'm sure at 99.9% it's possible (SLI Certification on box)
> I give me 3 days max to solve this else i'll buy a new motherboard cards and back this one


Ah, I was thinking like two EVGA GTX 560 Ti 2Win. You have two seperate cards? Not a 2 in one?

I have the same mobo, and run gtx580 sli. The *"Maximise 3D performance"* option is in my nvidia control panel. That setting enables SLI.


----------



## michaelkariv

I'm new here. I am not an experienced in hardware, at least not to a degree I see in other people's posts.
Here is the problem.
I have a new system with P8Z68-V-Pro.
As I have a 27" DELL, on-board graphics did not support the max resolution, so I have additionally purchased GIGABYTE GV-NX86T256H GeForce 8600 GT 256MB 128-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 video card.
The problem, that I later traced to a card, was that USB3 ports worked only sometimes. I could not spot a pattern, not at first.
I got my MOBO replaced, by another one just like the first one.
That time USB3 did not work at all.
I took it back to the store, and USB3 worked there. So, being hardware-challenged person, I just bought new keyboard and mouse, made sure they worked in store, came back home, plugged it all in, USB3 does not work.
I then removed the graphics card, and connected VGA to the monitor.
All of a suddent USB3 works again.
So I installed another card, this time ASUS EN210 SILENT/DI/512MD3/V2(LP).
USB3 does not work.
Both cards were connected to the first (top) blue slot.
Both cards work fine video-wise.
I have installed the latest BIOS using ASUS suite's Update utility.
I have installed all the latest drivers, though it is not clear to me how drivers should make any difference, the USB3 working/not working is seen at the bios stage, before the OS booted.
Since for regular work resolution is more important then USB3, I'll have to install the card back, but I am very frustrated with having to wait longer when copying large files between USB3 external drive and my home and office machines.
Any idea what I should try?


----------



## Anraiki

USB3 is relatively new. I think you may need some drivers so that it can be backwards compatible or to get it to even work properly.

I myself am in a spiraling nightmare and hell.

The ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0 likes to *loop on me by resetting itself, sleeping, and shutting off.*

Even at simple moments when I am browsing the internet or making some updates on the Operating System, the computer would like to instantly shut off.

I have manage to get it to semi stable by setting the bios to certain settings:
Internal PLL Overvoltage is Disable
Power on Pci-E and Pci is Enabled

Yet I am still walking into a problem that continues to loop itself. It makes me quite depress as I have built computers before, and I do own a lesser version of the P8P67 Pro, which is the P8P67 (and completely stable!).

If anyone can relieve me by giving me some advice on trouble shooting, I will be in your debt!


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> I haven't experienced this problem. I just did it because there was a way and I wanted away from the 09xx BIOS at the time. I first downgraded to 07xx and then back up to 08xx. Of course since then the 08xx has disappeared so I've updated to 1101. No version has given me a problem you've described (since 04xx something).


Well on 0902 I'm getting; BIOS reading CPU temps 10 degrees lower than they actually are, LEDs on my mobo sometimes staying on after it's been powered off and of course the audio issue.

I don't suppose you're getting any of this on 1101?


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anraiki*
> 
> USB3 is relatively new. I think you may need some drivers so that it can be backwards compatible or to get it to even work properly.
> I myself am in a spiraling nightmare and hell.
> The ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0 likes to *loop on me by resetting itself, sleeping, and shutting off.*
> Even at simple moments when I am browsing the internet or making some updates on the Operating System, the computer would like to instantly shut off.
> I have manage to get it to semi stable by setting the bios to certain settings:
> Internal PLL Overvoltage is Disable
> Power on Pci-E and Pci is Enabled
> Yet I am still walking into a problem that continues to loop itself. It makes me quite depress as I have built computers before, and I do own a lesser version of the P8P67 Pro, which is the P8P67 (and completely stable!).
> If anyone can relieve me by giving me some advice on trouble shooting, I will be in your debt!


clear cmos load optimized defaults, save exit
then if you can get into windows check your power management options in windows and untick sleep the computer to get things going
If its not a fresh reload of windows say an old one then do a fresh install
Keep in mind specific bios settings will have to be set later such as disabling marvell controller if not using, disabling firewire if none etc., first boot device to be set your.. OS HD etc and your specific settings once you first get it smooth at optimized defaults


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> Their isn't anything in the bios you should have to change that I know of that would stop you from posting just by adding another videocard. Have you tried the other pcie slots?
> I assume you tested the videocard in something else to make sure it's good? I've seen dead cards cause the error you are seeing.


Hi and thanks for the answer. Yea, I've used the card in my other system for over a year and have had no problems, so the card is working. However I didn't change to the other pcie slot, so I'll do that today and try a few other things. I just don't understand why I wouldn't get a signal at all. And by that I mean I couldn't even see the boot or bios screen, nothing. Oh well, will try the other slot and see what happens. I'll get back to you all and let you know what I found out and if it works or not.

I've been reading a lot about the double boot here. So far I haven't had this problem (knock on wood...)... It's a interesting subject...: thumb:.


----------



## Sathirian

I will get some pictures up later today to join the club, but I have a question first. I bought a 2500k and an ASUS P8P67 yesterday at Fry's with a great deal. Came home, installed the CPU but when installing I heard a sound that I have never heard. It was like a weird sound like scratching a chalkboard. I have never heard that sound before. So I removed the CPU, and I saw this on it:


Anyone else have this problem? I have seen others with it, but I don't know why it would happen. I am thinking of exchanging both the CPU and motherboard this weekend.


----------



## Salty85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sathirian*
> 
> I will get some pictures up later today to join the club, but I have a question first. I bought a 2500k and an ASUS P8P67 yesterday at Fry's with a great deal. Came home, installed the CPU but when installing I heard a sound that I have never heard. It was like a weird sound like scratching a chalkboard. I have never heard that sound before. So I removed the CPU, and I saw this on it:
> 
> Anyone else have this problem? I have seen others with it, but I don't know why it would happen. I am thinking of exchanging both the CPU and motherboard this weekend.


Actually, that seems to be normal, its in teh design of the CPU bracket to hold the CPU on tight, mine did the same thing and I winched when I got it booted up, I guess the metal on the top there is meant to be slightly bruised when you snap the bracket on, since the bracket actually presses those 2 points of the CPU. About the sound, I would just turn on your PC, and LIGHTLY!!!! touch the fans on the case to see if that is the issue, I had a similar issue and it was a fan was catching the case or a cable. A small tap to stop a fan won't break them, but DON'T try with any CPU/GPU fan. heck if you have a GPU, remove it to see if the GPU fan is the issue, but don't touch or remove the CPU fan. Be careful putting the CPU fan back on too because you need new thermal paste.


----------



## Anraiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> clear cmos load optimized defaults, save exit
> then if you can get into windows check your power management options in windows and untick sleep the computer to get things going
> If its not a fresh reload of windows say an old one then do a fresh install
> Keep in mind specific bios settings will have to be set later such as disabling marvell controller if not using, disabling firewire if none etc., first boot device to be set your.. OS HD etc and your specific settings once you first get it smooth at optimized defaults


Pains me to say that I have done a few of those.

This is what I have done so far:

Disabled PLL Overvoltage (this one is critical but means either a limit to over-clocking of about 4.5GHz or no sleep mode recovery - this is an Intel chipset bug)
Disabled Marvel SATA controller (that was the one causing the "No Physical Disk" startup error message)
Disabled Serial controller
Set DRAM settings manually.
Enabled "spread spectrum"
Manually set BCLK to 100.0
Manually set Turbo Ratio to 43
Enabled power on by PCI and PCI-e
Enabled Hot Plugging for all SATA ports
Set a positive offset for CPU voltage of 0.060
Put the computer to "never sleep"

With these settings, I have made tremendous progress in stabilizing but *I still get random shut off at any time I am doing anything*: In the Bios, On Windows, During Boot; Everywhere at any moment.

I still think the problem lies in the Bios, but I do not know what else to configure.

I also have: switched Video Cards and Power Supplies. I do have the option to switch Ram but I am doubtful the problem is there.

+Rep, and thank you for trying to help.


----------



## dennyb

@Anraiki...The random shut offs while idle could be caused by the C3/C6 states being enabled...thus not giving you enough voltage at idle. Try turning them off

My BIOS Settings

4400 SETTINGS-12 HOURS
Ai tweaker

Ai OC Tuner.........Manual
BCLK/PCIE Freq......100
Turbo ratio..........B.A.C.
B.A.C. Adj in OS....44
Int PLL................Disabled
Mem Freq............DDR3-1600
IGPU Max Freq.......1450
EPU power saving....Enabled
EPU Setting.........Auto

OC Tuner
DRAM Timing Ctrl.
CPU Power Mgt.
CPU Ratio........Auto
EIST.............Enabled
Turbo............Enabled
.................Auto x 6

LLC.................Medium
VRM Freq............Auto
Phase Ctrl..........Extreme
Duty Ctrl...........T-Probe
CPU Current Cap.....130%
IGPU LLC............Auto
IGPU Current Cap....100%

CPU Voltage.........Offset Mode
Offset Sign.........+
CPU Offset Volts....0.010
IGPU Offset Sign....+
IGPU Offset volts...Auto
DRAM Voltage........1.500
VCCIO...............Auto
CPU PLL Voltage.....Auto
Remaining 6 Items...Auto

Advanced
CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio..................Auto
INTEL A.T.M................Enabled
Active Processor Cores.....All
Limit CPUID Max............Disabled
Execute Disable Bit........Enabled
INTEL Virt Tech............Disabled
EIST.......................Enabled
Turbo Mode.................Enabled
C1E........................Enabled
C3.........................Disabled
C6.........................Disabled

IDLE = 1.000/1.008
LOAD = 1.296/1.304/1.312...1.304 MOSTLY
LOAD TEMPS = 61/64/66/62 MAX....MOSTLY HIGH 50'S


----------



## iARDAs

Hey there everyone

I have a Asus P8Z68V-LE motherboard which is a quite good one. But unfortunately i can not SLI it because its not SLI approved.

SO i will be getting a new motherboard.

Could you guide me to a good SLI motherboard that is easy to OC.

Should i go for P8Z68V or v pro

or should i get a p8p67 motherboard?


----------



## truehighroller1

I figured I would post this in this thread as well since it seems to be more active and this is official thread







.

Ok so, this is my problem and I think I have it cornered here but would like a professionals help. I'm hoping some one here can maybe get me through this one or maybe get an Asus engineer to fix it for us. I'm having an issue with my chronos deluxe 240gb mushkin ssd that I just bought. To be more specific once I get to any random percent done under 50 on the expansion part of my Windows 7 install it fails and tells me that a file is missing or something along those lines.

I found this thread.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/294064-30-p8z68-2600k-intel-install-windows-64bit

Which made me think this is my issue as well. My reasoning for that assumption is that I've done just about every single possible thing to get this ssd working at this point which is what this guy did apparently too before figuring out the issue was the bios...

Am I having this issue because I need to upgrade my raid rom or what ever these two things are listed in the beginning of the thread?

[How-to] Update Intel ME Firmware
[How-to] Update Intel RAID Option ROM

Or do I need to wait for Asus to fix this issue with a BIOS update??

I'm good at working with PCs so I won't have any problems upgrading the raid or me roms if need be.

Thank you for your help ahead of time. Awesome job with this thread as well.

I have the following setup sorry,

Antec 1200 Case
Strong little fans on the vrms and memory.
Corsair 850W HTX or what ever the best one is.
Asus P8Z68 Deluxe \ Gen 3
2600K / Water Cooled = Big Setup, Plenty cool.
Corsair 8GB DDR3 2000 2 X 4GB Kit
Asus ATI 6970
Creative Xtreme Gamer
Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 240GB SSD
Barracuda 1TB Sata II
DVD Burner
Windows 7 Ultimate 64Bit

Update:

I called Asus and opened a trouble ticket with them in regards to the issue.
The tech had me try using the AHCI drivers from there website before the install on to the ssd and it failed as well with a file doesn't exist error message some percent through the extraction part of the install.

I can access the ssd fine in windows using my old raid 0 setup that I kept intact, thank god... So the SSD is fine.

I really wish some one would tell me about the me and raid rom update things mentioned in the beginning of this thread and if that's my issue or not.

Thanks again for any help with this issue.

Update:

Some one just suggested the media is bad. I went to Best buy and bought a new Blue Ray / DVD burner and even downloaded a new ultimate 64bit image from microsofts website and burnt a new DVD and it still fails with the same error message when expanding the files for installation.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceptre155*
> 
> Their isn't anything in the bios you should have to change that I know of that would stop you from posting just by adding another videocard. Have you tried the other pcie slots?
> I assume you tested the videocard in something else to make sure it's good? I've seen dead cards cause the error you are seeing.


Interestingly enough I tried the other pcie slot (blue) and it worked fine. I really don't understand this as both slots should work the same. Oh well, it works and the picture is outstanding again. Built in graphics on the CPU is a nice deal if you're only going to be doing text with some minor graphics (like maybe a pie chart) but when it comes to being able to see what you're missing, a dedicated graphics card is the only way to go. I should have just bought a p67. A lesson learned, but I will play with the Lucid Virtu next to see if it really will switch back and forth depending on the software you're running. I do have a lot of text type work to do everyday, but after that's done I want to see what's going on in a game and the games now have such amazing graphics. So I guess I'll be updating my old 9800GT very soon to a new Nvidia card.

Thanks for your help. I would have logically tried the next slot, but (as said) I don't understand why it wouldn't work in either slot. I know there's still a lot of bugs to be sorted out in these newer MB's and chipsets but I figured by now these things should be fixed with BIOs updates and drivers by this stage of the game. Thanks again for your help, it was much appreciated.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

*Truehighroller1:*

Question, are you trying to use the Intel Smart Response Technology with the SSD or just trying to use the SSD by itself?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> *Truehighroller1:*
> Question, are you trying to use the Intel Smart Response Technology with the SSD or just trying to use the SSD by itself?


SSD by it self as the boot drive for windows.


----------



## Anraiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> @Anraiki...The random shut offs while idle could be caused by the C3/C6 states being enabled...thus not giving you enough voltage at idle. Try turning them off
> 
> Advanced
> CPU Configuration
> C1E........................Enabled
> C3.........................Disabled
> C6.........................Disabled
> IDLE = 1.000/1.008
> LOAD = 1.296/1.304/1.312...1.304 MOSTLY
> LOAD TEMPS = 61/64/66/62 MAX....MOSTLY HIGH 50'S


These settings are magical. It stop the auto-shutting off so far. Tears to my eyes!

+REP! I will keep things updated should anything happen down the road.

[Edit] Speak of the Devil. It just magically reset itself







. However, it was still able to boot







. Going to try a fresh reformat of Windows and see if it persist.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> @Anraiki...The random shut offs while idle could be caused by the C3/C6 states being enabled...thus not giving you enough voltage at idle. Try turning them off
> My BIOS Settings
> 4400 SETTINGS-12 HOURS
> Ai tweaker
> Ai OC Tuner.........Manual
> BCLK/PCIE Freq......100
> Turbo ratio..........B.A.C.
> B.A.C. Adj in OS....44
> Int PLL................Disabled
> Mem Freq............DDR3-1600
> IGPU Max Freq.......1450
> EPU power saving....Enabled
> EPU Setting.........Auto
> OC Tuner
> DRAM Timing Ctrl.
> CPU Power Mgt.
> CPU Ratio........Auto
> EIST.............Enabled
> Turbo............Enabled
> .................Auto x 6
> LLC.................Medium
> VRM Freq............Auto
> Phase Ctrl..........Extreme
> Duty Ctrl...........T-Probe
> CPU Current Cap.....130%
> IGPU LLC............Auto
> IGPU Current Cap....100%
> CPU Voltage.........Offset Mode
> Offset Sign.........+
> CPU Offset Volts....0.010
> IGPU Offset Sign....+
> IGPU Offset volts...Auto
> DRAM Voltage........1.500
> VCCIO...............Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage.....Auto
> Remaining 6 Items...Auto
> Advanced
> CPU Configuration
> CPU Ratio..................Auto
> INTEL A.T.M................Enabled
> Active Processor Cores.....All
> Limit CPUID Max............Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit........Enabled
> INTEL Virt Tech............Disabled
> EIST.......................Enabled
> Turbo Mode.................Enabled
> C1E........................Enabled
> C3.........................Disabled
> C6.........................Disabled
> IDLE = 1.000/1.008
> LOAD = 1.296/1.304/1.312...1.304 MOSTLY
> LOAD TEMPS = 61/64/66/62 MAX....MOSTLY HIGH 50'S


One thing I've noticed is that all these K processors seem to OC differently. I think my case is limiting my cooling ability too. Here are my 44x OC settings for comparison. Note that I use a negative offset value. But my vCores seem slightly higher than yours.

** System Specs **
Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V Pro Bios Ver:1101
Processor: i5 2500k Stepping: D2
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600 XMP
GPU: None SLI/CF: no
PSU: Corsair HX520W
Cooling: Air CM Hyper 212+ dual fans
OS: W7HP x64 SP1

** Ai Tweaker **
Ai Overclock Tuner: X.M.P
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 44
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Freq: 1600
DRAM Timing Control: 9-9-9-24-2t
iGPU max freq: 1450
EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled

** Ai Tweaker\\ CPU Management> **
CPU Ratio: Auto
EIST: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled

** Ai Tweaker\\ (Digi+ VRM section) **
Load Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 100%
** Ai Tweaker\\ (Voltage Section)
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: -
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.025
DRAM Voltage: 1.50v
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled

** Advanced\\ CPU Configuration>
CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Vitalization Technology: Disabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Enabled
CPU C6 Report: Enabled

Temps: up to 81*C on LinX all ram
70*C on P95 small FFts
77*C on IBT
vCore: 0.672 to 1.352 spike
normal test load is 1.320-1.344v


----------



## Mercyflush64

Has anyone had issues after switching to a P8Z68-V with slower internet uploads? My uploading with my Gigabyte boad was always a steady 62kb and switching to this boards Intel chip I rarely get over 28kb.


----------



## Anraiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> @Anraiki...The random shut offs while idle could be caused by the C3/C6 states being enabled...thus not giving you enough voltage at idle. Try turning them off
> ...


The problem persist







.

I am going to go through one more reinstall and if it continues to persist, I guess I will ebay it off "as is" :\


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anraiki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> @Anraiki...The random shut offs while idle could be caused by the C3/C6 states being enabled...thus not giving you enough voltage at idle. Try turning them off
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> The problem persist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I am going to go through one more reinstall and if it continues to persist, I guess I will ebay it off "as is" :\
Click to expand...

The power supply is good?
latest bios? if it was flashed it was a good flash no issues?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I figured I would post this in this thread as well since it seems to be more active and this is official thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Ok so, this is my problem and I think I have it cornered here but would like a professionals help. I'm hoping some one here can maybe get me through this one or maybe get an Asus engineer to fix it for us. I'm having an issue with my chronos deluxe 240gb mushkin ssd that I just bought. To be more specific once I get to any random percent done under 50 on the expansion part of my Windows 7 install it fails and tells me that a file is missing or something along those lines.
> I found this thread.
> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/294064-30-p8z68-2600k-intel-install-windows-64bit
> Which made me think this is my issue as well. My reasoning for that assumption is that I've done just about every single possible thing to get this ssd working at this point which is what this guy did apparently too before figuring out the issue was the bios...
> Am I having this issue because I need to upgrade my raid rom or what ever these two things are listed in the beginning of the thread?
> [How-to] Update Intel ME Firmware
> [How-to] Update Intel RAID Option ROM
> Or do I need to wait for Asus to fix this issue with a BIOS update??
> I'm good at working with PCs so I won't have any problems upgrading the raid or me roms if need be.
> Thank you for your help ahead of time. Awesome job with this thread as well.
> I have the following setup sorry,
> Antec 1200 Case
> Strong little fans on the vrms and memory.
> Corsair 850W HTX or what ever the best one is.
> Asus P8Z68 Deluxe \ Gen 3
> 2600K / Water Cooled = Big Setup, Plenty cool.
> Corsair 8GB DDR3 2000 2 X 4GB Kit
> Asus ATI 6970
> Creative Xtreme Gamer
> Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 240GB SSD
> Barracuda 1TB Sata II
> DVD Burner
> Windows 7 Ultimate 64Bit
> Update:
> I called Asus and opened a trouble ticket with them in regards to the issue.
> The tech had me try using the AHCI drivers from there website before the install on to the ssd and it failed as well with a file doesn't exist error message some percent through the extraction part of the install.
> I can access the ssd fine in windows using my old raid 0 setup that I kept intact, thank god... So the SSD is fine.
> I really wish some one would tell me about the me and raid rom update things mentioned in the beginning of this thread and if that's my issue or not.
> Thanks again for any help with this issue.
> Update:
> Some one just suggested the media is bad. I went to Best buy and bought a new Blue Ray / DVD burner and even downloaded a new ultimate 64bit image from microsofts website and burnt a new DVD and it still fails with the same error message when expanding the files for installation.


No one? Argh, I really hoped some one would have the magic bullet. I'm trying Acronis to make an image to put it on the ssd now. Let's see if that works or not... Tell me if any one has a clue here, I don't







thanks.


----------



## marklin

Hi all,

From some days ago I have an Asus P8Z68-V GEN3 working like a champ along with a Sandy Bridge i2500K and G-Skill 2x4GB 1.25V. I love it. But there is an annoyance that is puzzling me. When I try to OC in offset mode, the vCore (CPU Voltage) reported by the bios (monitor) is always 0.05-0.06v lower than value read on Windows by CPU-Z or Monitor Windows Utility from Asus AI Suite II.

For example, if I set offset voltage to -70 mV ... After save BIOS (UEFI) & reboot the system (with a 41x CPU ratio), BIOS shows 1.142v-1.150v for CPU Voltage, while Windows CPU-Z or ASUS OC TurboV Monitor Utility show 1.202v-1.210v. And that difference, around 0.05v-0.06v, remains constant whatever offset voltage value is set in Bios.

On the other hand it seems that when I disable "CPU Power Management->Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology" in Bios, windows doesn't take into account & continue adjusting freq/volatge in basis on demand (from 16x to max CPU multiplier/ratio set). So it seems some few bios settings changes don't take effect under windows. However there is not problem to change them from Windows itself via Asus AI Suite II. Other Bios settings, the most, like max CPU ratio, when changed in Bios are coherently (same value) reported in Windows 7.

There is no problem too changing vCore value (CPU Voltage) from Windows with the utility ASUS OC TurboV. It changes with 100% accuracy.

Is it normal?. I have not found other P8Z68 GEN3 owners complaining about same issue. Can be my board faulty?. Can be an issue related at Windows & mother board drivers?

Any idea about or help is welcome!

Thank you in advance.

Mark


----------



## Danger72

New parts, lots of money (to me) and a big pain the the a.... Hoping for some help on this.

ALL brand new

MB: P8Z68-V Pro GEN3
CPU: i7 2600k
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-10666CL7D-8GBXH DDR3-1333 x4

Problem 1: MB will not post if I put ANY RAM in B1 or B2 slot, pressing memOK does not help no matter how many times I've tried it now. Any 2 sticks of RAM in A1/A2 and it's all fine. Putting even a single stick in B1 or B2, with and without any sticks in A1/A2 and it won't post.

Problem 2: maybe related to #1, I cannot get my rig above 3.4g I have followed the settings mentioned on here to get OC up to 4.8, hell I would even take 4 but after a save and exit it's still at 3.4

I'm not sure what I am doing wrong or if my board/cpu is in need of an RMA.

Other parts to consider, Asus GTX 560 GPU, 4 HDDs, 1 BR drive, 850W PSU (overkill I know), 6 Fractal whisper quiet fans.

Help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## sceptre155

truehighroller1,

So you have a single ssd 320 gig and windows fails around 50%? I wouldn't use the Marvell controller by the way. Ad using another drive works fine?
Have you tried chkdsk on the ssd?


----------



## sceptre155

Danger72,

Did you try slot 2 and 4 together? Bios is registering your ram ok.? Speed and voltage.?


----------



## dartuil

if my board do the same than u danger72 i go asrock








waiting it tomorrow everything work fine on my old pc if the z68 do issue i will try asrock dont want gigabyte (boot loop issue)


----------



## dennyb

For those of you who are having trouble setting up your SSD on the Asus boards...here is a thread that can give you the help you are after

http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-guide-optimization-for-ssds-hdds

Sean and a few other guys over there can assist you


----------



## Anraiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> The power supply is good?
> latest bios? if it was flashed it was a good flash no issues?


Power Supply is good. I got 4 that are: 800w, 700w, 500w, and 450w.

Bios at 2001 which is the latest. Good flash and same issues.

I am thinking the Video Card is not compatible so I am pulling straws here and am going to try and switch to a new card and see what happens once I install the driver.


----------



## Danger72

Quote:


> Did you try slot 2 and 4 together? Bios is registering your ram ok.? Speed and voltage.?


Yes, I've tried every combo I can think of, only sticks in A1 &/or A2 will all the board to post and then boot to Windows.

Bios registers any of the sticks of RAM as being alright, speed and voltage are also as they should be 1333 & 1.5v


----------



## dartuil

memory ports dead maybe alot of asus and gigabyte mobo has issues : asus shut down and memory issue, gigabyte boot loop crazy i dont know for asrock , and msi their mobo explodes with amd cpu :/


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anraiki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> The power supply is good?
> latest bios? if it was flashed it was a good flash no issues?
> 
> 
> 
> Power Supply is good. I got 4 that are: 800w, 700w, 500w, and 450w.
> 
> Bios at 2001 which is the latest. Good flash and same issues.
> 
> I am thinking the Video Card is not compatible so I am pulling straws here and am going to try and switch to a new card and see what happens once I install the driver.
Click to expand...

I've read through all your post and at this point you should use your P67 board with proc memory and hard drive ( w/ windows on it) from the Z board that has been shutting down randomly. As always it can be a tedious process of elimination to get to the root cause and this will eliminate the motherboard. If you no longer have the random shut downs I would RMA the motherboard. If you do then it's either the memory or proc so again go back to you known working system components with one of those at a time. My first option at that point would be the Proc and I would try that with the known good working components. The good news is unlike most you have the components sitting around the get the job done. I know it's a pain but you should be able to determine if it's working before you will have to reauthorize windows because of the motherboard change making it a bit less painful. GL


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> SSD by it self as the boot drive for windows.


Reason I asked was when installing a SSD and using the Smart Response Technology there is a specific sequence as to setting them up or it won't work. In your case the SSD should work as a regular drive without issues (even as a boot drive). I see someone suggested a thread to read, maybe that will help. Good luck!


----------



## Overclockname

Woo Hoo! Got my asus p8z68-v pro/gen3 and new/first build started up for the first time today. So far, knock on wood, so good.

Looked around bios for a bit just to get acquainted. I then went to the asus site and downloaded the new bios 0402 onto a usb drive (used different computer), and used the "ez flash 2" to install it on the new. It was easy and worked (as far as I know anyway LOL). Said it was successfull, so I'll believe it.

Going to install some drivers now, but some questions before I do it:

Downloaded (from asus) the intel chipset, real tek audio, and Intel LAN onto a usb flash drive. I am guessing they are the most current versions from the asus website? Or should I use the cd that came with the mobo for newer/better items?
Any issues using the usb vs the cd or direct download from internet? Don't have anti virus/firewall istalled on new comp. yet so I used old comp to download and scan.

May have seen double boot issue I read about somewhere, but it was during windows OS install, so I'll check at the next startup.

Thanks for everybody's help to date.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclockname*
> 
> Woo Hoo! Got my asus p8z68-v pro/gen3 and new/first build started up for the first time today. So far, knock on wood, so good.
> Looked around bios for a bit just to get acquainted. I then went to the asus site and downloaded the new bios 0402 onto a usb drive (used different computer), and used the "ez flash 2" to install it on the new. It was easy and worked (as far as I know anyway LOL). Said it was successfull, so I'll believe it.
> Going to install some drivers now, but some questions before I do it:
> Downloaded (from asus) the intel chipset, real tek audio, and Intel LAN onto a usb flash drive. I am guessing they are the most current versions from the asus website? Or should I use the cd that came with the mobo for newer/better items?
> Any issues using the usb vs the cd or direct download from internet? Don't have anti virus/firewall istalled on new comp. yet so I used old comp to download and scan.
> May have seen double boot issue I read about somewhere, but it was during windows OS install, so I'll check at the next startup.
> Thanks for everybody's help to date.


Check the drivers on the first page of this thread. Some may well be newer. Asus are not always that fast to put up third party drivers.

If marvell sata ports are enabled you may get what appears to be a double bios load, but is just the Marvell controller interrupting...


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Overclockname*
> 
> Woo Hoo! Got my asus p8z68-v pro/gen3 and new/first build started up for the first time today. So far, knock on wood, so good.
> Looked around bios for a bit just to get acquainted. I then went to the asus site and downloaded the new bios 0402 onto a usb drive (used different computer), and used the "ez flash 2" to install it on the new. It was easy and worked (as far as I know anyway LOL). Said it was successfull, so I'll believe it.
> Going to install some drivers now, but some questions before I do it:
> Downloaded (from asus) the intel chipset, real tek audio, and Intel LAN onto a usb flash drive. I am guessing they are the most current versions from the asus website? Or should I use the cd that came with the mobo for newer/better items?
> Any issues using the usb vs the cd or direct download from internet? Don't have anti virus/firewall istalled on new comp. yet so I used old comp to download and scan.
> May have seen double boot issue I read about somewhere, but it was during windows OS install, so I'll check at the next startup.
> Thanks for everybody's help to date.
> 
> 
> 
> Check the drivers on the first page of this thread. Some may well be newer. Asus are not always that fast to put up third party drivers.
> 
> If marvell sata ports are enabled you may get what appears to be a double bios load, but is just the Marvell controller interrupting...
Click to expand...

Better yet go *here* for the latest drivers


----------



## Overclockname

Thanks alancsalt and owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Check the drivers on the first page of this thread. Some may well be newer. Asus are not always that fast to put up third party drivers.
> If marvell sata ports are enabled you may get what appears to be a double bios load, but is just the Marvell controller interrupting...


Good point on the marvell. Thinking back I seem to remember a quick screen that mentioned "marvell controller" during the restarts. Per members advice here I planned on disabling the marvell sata anyway as I get further along.

Looks like asus is indeed behind on their website as the version numbers at the locations recommended are "later" than the numbers listed on the asus website.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Reason I asked was when installing a SSD and using the Smart Response Technology there is a specific sequence as to setting them up or it won't work. In your case the SSD should work as a regular drive without issues (even as a boot drive). I see someone suggested a thread to read, maybe that will help. Good luck!


I read that thread already and I shouldn't be having this issue according to their thread and what I've read else where as well so I left them alone for now. I've been trouble shooting it ever since. I've switched SSDs twice or rather I've tried three different SSDs and one of them is a Crucial M4. I kept it so now I have a Chronos Deluxe 240GB and the M4 240GB. The other one was a Kingston HyperX 240GB, same 2281 chipset as the Mushkin one I have still and it did the same thing.

They fail while expanding the windows 7 installation files stating that the file doesn't exist and it halts the installation. I swapped out the motherboard per asus's suggestion today as well and swapped out the cpu while I was at it " Figured I might get a better chip from it lol " and still, the same issue occurred. Neither one will let windows install to them lol.

I will push the CPU later to see if I got a winner this time







.

I can go in to great detail about what all I have tried at this point if you like but basically I've tried every single possible combination of changing configs and resetting the bios and taking everything out except for the cd rom and the ssd and just everything possible really. I've been just using the SSD and Burner when attempting the installs since the first time I tried that by the way just so you know that's not the issue.

I bought a new Blue Ray burner to make sure that it wasn't the issue. I burnt a new image from Microsoft's website that I paid them for of Windows Ultimate 64bit.

I've tried loading the driver for ahci even though I shouldn't need to and it still fails. I've done that before partitioning the drive and after and both have the same out come. I've tried IDE AHCI and Raid to no avail.

I bought Paragon and tried it and it stops communicating to the SSDs at about 87% of the way done roughly so I can't use OS to SSD or any other type of imaging program for that matter......

I'm swapping my memory out tomorrow it's the only thing left at his point. I haven't swapped the Sata6GB cable yet but it's the brand new one from ASUS so... Chances their are very very slim.. I hope that would be funny if it's been a defective brand new cable from asus, the whole time huh.







I highly doubt it but I will try it later as well at this point.

Tell me if I've missed anything lol. It's driving me insane not being able to just install windows to a damn ssd on this motherboard at this point.

I'm going to switch my cables out for new ones from the new motherboard box and switch my memory lanes as well to see if that helps or not right now.

Update:

Switching out the cables for new ones and switching the memory to different lanes didn't help either. I will swap the memory out tomorrow and at that point, I believe I've done every single thing I can possibly do on my side to remedy this issue. I'm thinking it will end up being my memory.

If it's not, then the ball will land in Asus's lap I would think unless some one here can think of something I've left out, something I'm missing.

Thanks for the help by the way. I need it this is driving me batty.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Reason I asked was when installing a SSD and using the Smart Response Technology there is a specific sequence as to setting them up or it won't work. In your case the SSD should work as a regular drive without issues (even as a boot drive). I see someone suggested a thread to read, maybe that will help. Good luck!
> 
> 
> 
> I read that thread already and I shouldn't be having this issue according to their thread and what I've read else where as well so I left them alone for now. I've been trouble shooting it ever since. I've switched SSDs twice or rather I've tried three different SSDs and one of them is a Crucial M4. I kept it so now I have a Chronos Deluxe 240GB and the M4 240GB. The other one was a Kingston HyperX 240GB, same 2281 chipset as the Mushkin one I have still and it did the same thing.
> 
> They fail while expanding the windows 7 installation files stating that the file doesn't exist and it halts the installation. I swapped out the motherboard per asus's suggestion today as well and swapped out the cpu while I was at it " Figured I might get a better chip from it lol " and still, the same issue occurred. Neither one will let windows install to them lol.
> 
> I will push the CPU later to see if I got a winner this time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I can go in to great detail about what all I have tried at this point if you like but basically I've tried every single possible combination of changing configs and resetting the bios and taking everything out except for the cd rom and the ssd and just everything possible really. I've been just using the SSD and Burner when attempting the installs since the first time I tried that by the way just so you know that's not the issue.
> 
> I bought a new Blue Ray burner to make sure that it wasn't the issue. I burnt a new image from Microsoft's website that I paid them for of Windows Ultimate 64bit.
> 
> I've tried loading the driver for ahci even though I shouldn't need to and it still fails. I've done that before partitioning the drive and after and both have the same out come. I've tried IDE AHCI and Raid to no avail.
> 
> I bought Paragon and tried it and it stops communicating to the SSDs at about 87% of the way done roughly so I can't use OS to SSD or any other type of imaging program for that matter......
> 
> I'm swapping my memory out tomorrow it's the only thing left at his point. I haven't swapped the Sata6GB cable yet but it's the brand new one from ASUS so... Chances their are very very slim.. I hope that would be funny if it's been a defective brand new cable from asus, the whole time huh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I highly doubt it but I will try it later as well at this point.
> 
> Tell me if I've missed anything lol. It's driving me insane not being able to just install windows to a damn ssd on this motherboard at this point.
> 
> I'm going to switch my cables out for new ones from the new motherboard box and switch my memory lanes as well to see if that helps or not right now.
> 
> Update:
> 
> Switching out the cables for new ones and switching the memory to different lanes didn't help either. I will swap the memory out tomorrow and at that point, I believe I've done every single thing I can possibly do on my side to remedy this issue. I'm thinking it will end up being my memory.
> 
> If it's not, then the ball will land in Asus's lap I would think unless some one here can think of something I've left out, something I'm missing.
> 
> Thanks for the help by the way. I need it this is driving me batty.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure exactly why you are having trouble but let me try and help. I doubt seriously it's your hardware giving you the trouble but I'm a bit unclear based on the conversation here what you are trying to do. You are talking about SSD caching when you mention Smart Response Technology. This is setup & handled through the IRST software which is installed after Windows installation to a standard mechanical hard drive. It augments the standard drive with an SSD using up to 64GB of it's space which you decide when setting it up through the IRST. AHCI or RAID mode is recommended *at the time of windows installation* if the end game is to use SSD caching. Switching to it after the fact is problematic at best. So I'm unclear as to what your ultimate goal is here, in other words.

However with a 240GB SSD I see no need to use that feature you would be much better off (faster) if you used that SSD on the Intel Sata III port and install windows to it using your mechanical drives for storage, temp files & Page files. SSD caching is cumbersome and problematic at best making it less than optimal given your hardware capabilities. I highly recommend this avenue for your hardware.

If you choose this route I recommend you start fresh, zero out the SSD, update it's firmware to the latest greatest and use a minimum Sata config, one optical drive and the SSD only at installation attaching other storage drives etc after windows installation. Let W7 do the work for your partitioning the SSD and avoid confusion by the min config.

Don't rule out a defective installation disk. Try cleaning it first but You can download and burn an iso of your specific OS and use your key to activate it as a work around if that's the case.

I'll be back late afternoon if you need more help and I can be of further assistance.


----------



## truehighroller1

@owcraftsman

Exactly. I just want to install windows 7 to the sd. I bought a brand new Blue Ray player and burnt a new iso image directly from Microsofts website.

I would like to add though that The DVD that I originally setup this installation of windows with " This is a Raid 0 Setup on the same motherboard " was fine and should still be fine to use but I played it safe and did that yes. I also bought 3 different SSDs and all three fail with the same error message.

I let Windows setup the hard drive the way it wants toi, I just said it wrong earlier I apologize for that t was late







.

I have been disconnecting all drives except for the SSD and Burner..

I tried having the burner on a few different ports and have been leaving the ssd where it is plugged in to a grey port.

Thank you for your help. I will report back as well about the memory swap..


----------



## Mercyflush64

Anyone else noticing slower upload speeds with this intel chipset? My downloads are nicer and less stuttering but the uploads are half as fast and I rarely hit my cap now when I used to sustain it with my gigabyte board.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I read that thread already and I shouldn't be having this issue according to their thread and what I've read else where as well so I left them alone for now. I've been trouble shooting it ever since. I've switched SSDs twice or rather I've tried three different SSDs and one of them is a Crucial M4. I kept it so now I have a Chronos Deluxe 240GB and the M4 240GB. The other one was a Kingston HyperX 240GB, same 2281 chipset as the Mushkin one I have still and it did the same thing.
> They fail while expanding the windows 7 installation files stating that the file doesn't exist and it halts the installation. I swapped out the motherboard per asus's suggestion today as well and swapped out the cpu while I was at it " Figured I might get a better chip from it lol " and still, the same issue occurred. Neither one will let windows install to them lol.
> I will push the CPU later to see if I got a winner this time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I can go in to great detail about what all I have tried at this point if you like but basically I've tried every single possible combination of changing configs and resetting the bios and taking everything out except for the cd rom and the ssd and just everything possible really. I've been just using the SSD and Burner when attempting the installs since the first time I tried that by the way just so you know that's not the issue.
> I bought a new Blue Ray burner to make sure that it wasn't the issue. I burnt a new image from Microsoft's website that I paid them for of Windows Ultimate 64bit.
> I've tried loading the driver for ahci even though I shouldn't need to and it still fails. I've done that before partitioning the drive and after and both have the same out come. I've tried IDE AHCI and Raid to no avail.
> I bought Paragon and tried it and it stops communicating to the SSDs at about 87% of the way done roughly so I can't use OS to SSD or any other type of imaging program for that matter......
> I'm swapping my memory out tomorrow it's the only thing left at his point. I haven't swapped the Sata6GB cable yet but it's the brand new one from ASUS so... Chances their are very very slim.. I hope that would be funny if it's been a defective brand new cable from asus, the whole time huh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I highly doubt it but I will try it later as well at this point.
> Tell me if I've missed anything lol. It's driving me insane not being able to just install windows to a damn ssd on this motherboard at this point.
> I'm going to switch my cables out for new ones from the new motherboard box and switch my memory lanes as well to see if that helps or not right now.
> Update:
> Switching out the cables for new ones and switching the memory to different lanes didn't help either. I will swap the memory out tomorrow and at that point, I believe I've done every single thing I can possibly do on my side to remedy this issue. I'm thinking it will end up being my memory.
> If it's not, then the ball will land in Asus's lap I would think unless some one here can think of something I've left out, something I'm missing.
> Thanks for the help by the way. I need it this is driving me batty.


Wow, this is strange. You seem to have done everything possible. I was going to suggest a firmware update to the Blu-Ray , but you said you put a new one in. Reason I said that was I recently burned a couple of movies on a RW disc and half way through both movies the disc decided not to play back anymore. I was playing the disc back on my home theater DvD which I've never had a problem playing back RW disc's from my computer. Did a firmware update and problem solved. Go figure.... Sometimes it's the smallest or easiest thing that makes everything else go south. But in your case I don't get it. I'm going to buy a SSD drive either before or after Xmas (probably after as prices really drop then) and will be doing the same with my setup, but using the "Intel Smart Response Technology" so I can speed up all of my hard drives. I hope I don't run into what it is that's happening to you.









If I have any thoughts on this I'll get back to you, but right now I don't see that you're doing anything others wouldn't do. And I doubt it's the SATA cable either. I used the ASUS cables also and they worked fine, but you never know, stranger things have happened....


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Anyone else noticing slower upload speeds with this intel chipset? My downloads are nicer and less stuttering but the uploads are half as fast and I rarely hit my cap now when I used to sustain it with my gigabyte board.


Just wanted to say that my up (and down) load speeds have remained the same from a very old setup to a new ASUS Z68 board. I assume your drop in speed is significant enough to wonder if it's the board, or chip set. Anyway, mines doing okay and for your reference I'm using cable Internet from Time Warner (Roadrunner). Same speeds now as before.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> snip
> I'm going to buy a SSD drive either before or after Xmas (probably after as prices really drop then) and will be doing the same with my setup, but using the "Intel Smart Response Technology" so I can speed up all of my hard drives. I hope I don't run into what it is that's happening to you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I have any thoughts on this I'll get back to you, but right now I don't see that you're doing anything others wouldn't do. And I doubt it's the SATA cable either. I used the ASUS cables also and they worked fine, but you never know, stranger things have happened....


I just setup a system similar to this on a P8Z68V/Core i5-2400 system. I used a 64GB Corsair M4 paired with a 1TB Hitachi drive and it is really fast... gives my 80Gb SSD/Win7/64 setup a run for the money.

I setup the BIOS as RAID... THEN installed Win7/64HP. Later in IRST I setup the cache drive.... which becomes invisible. The cache is tied to one drive, not all of them.

Edit: corrected Hitachi drive from GB to TB. Oops.


----------



## redalert

Im hoping someone can help me. I had to RMA my Asus P8Z68 V Pro now Asus wont cover it under warranty due to trace damage unless I give them a $150 to replace it and it will take them another 5-10 business days before they finish. Im currently using a P8P67 now, should I even bother with the Asus P8Z68 V Pro and pay another $150?


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redalert*
> 
> Im hoping someone can help me. I had to RMA my Asus P8Z68 V Pro now Asus wont cover it under warranty due to trace damage unless I give them a $150 to replace it and it will take them another 5-10 business days before they finish. Im currently using a P8P67 now, should I even bother with the Asus P8Z68 V Pro and pay another $150?


That sucks
Maybe just buy a new one locally.
I am in Canada but thats not much different than new price is it?


----------



## redalert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> That sucks
> Maybe just buy a new one locally.
> I am in Canada but thats not much different than new price is it?


they go around $200-250 at most places .


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redalert*
> 
> Im hoping someone can help me. I had to RMA my Asus P8Z68 V Pro now Asus wont cover it under warranty due to trace damage unless I give them a $150 to replace it and it will take them another 5-10 business days before they finish. Im currently using a P8P67 now, should I even bother with the Asus P8Z68 V Pro and pay another $150?


Tough call redalert. Did you cause the trace damage? All the same if you own the P8P67 you are now using I think I would just hold up for now and see what comes out in 2012. You would be buying "old" tech even tho it is a fine board. I have one myself but would be hard pressed to spend another 150 on it after already buying it once. Yeah, I would wait to get a newer model board next year.


----------



## redalert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> Tough call redalert. Did you cause the trace damage? All the same if you own the P8P67 you are now using I think I would just hold up for now and see what comes out in 2012. You would be buying "old" tech even tho it is a fine board. I have one myself but would be hard pressed to spend another 150 on it after already buying it once. Yeah, I would wait to get a newer model board next year.


I got a boot device LED error a couple weeks ago, I start disconnecting/connecting different hardware then I get a CPU LED error and a puff smoke comes from the back of the motherboard. The thing that really sucks is I gotta re install windows on my M4, Im currently using a different SSD atm. I know what I will be doing on Saturday reformatting again


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Just wanted to say that my up (and down) load speeds have remained the same from a very old setup to a new ASUS Z68 board. I assume your drop in speed is significant enough to wonder if it's the board, or chip set. Anyway, mines doing okay and for your reference I'm using cable Internet from Time Warner (Roadrunner). Same speeds now as before.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> I just setup a system similar to this on a P8Z68V/Core i5-2400 system. I used a 64GB Corsair M4 paired with a 1GB Hitachi drive and it is really fast... gives my 80Gb SSD / Win7/64 setup a run for the money.
> I setup the BIOS as RAID... THEN installed Win7/64HP. Later in IRST I setup the cache drive.... which becomes invisible. The cache is tied to one drive, not all of them.


I figured it out finally. Kind of derp on my side but kind of not at the same time. Three things.

1. Memory went south after the old, mother board overvolted it to 2 V.
2. ISO image keeps downloading corrupt from Microsoft. Working on resolving this issue some how....
3. Mushkin SSD is a dud, officially.

I'm running from my old 64bit Ultimate ISO now on the M4 drive. I installed the new terabyte Baracuda and I'm copying over file archives now to it. Then I will rip out the old 500GB drive and just have drum rolllll.... The SSD and one terabyte drive, until the Mushkin replacement gets here







. Then I will have two SSDs installed. I'm thinking about how to do this. I guess I could get the good ISO then install it on the mushkin one and use this one for apps or a back up drive.. something.

Any way, yep that was a good little adventure I had there. I decided to try to install to the terabyte drive and it failed with the same message at 11%. I knew at that point the disc even though I had burnt three new ones or four,, was bad.. I dug out my old one from the garbage and went to town on trying to install to the Chronos deluxe and it wouldn't even get picked up by the motherboard any more. I used the M4 and it went like a dream for me...

In other words I jumped the gun to early on the iso image from Microsoft. I did try to verify the Hash but I couldn't find it on the internet. I re downloaded it again through the Microsoft store but the iso version this time and it, verified at the end what the hash was and said it failed, twice now actually. I gave up for a night on that part.

I'm downloading battlefield 3 now!!


----------



## dartuil

Woow the 2300 is eally fast men my games stop lagging and freezing , i think my PSU liked it too less power needed.
In games my minimum fps are crazy


----------



## matty0610

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2151702

im in


----------



## dartuil

62° @ stock is ok or too hot i use cm tx3
when i game i went to 40 to 62 :/


----------



## Stianby

Hello gents, it's been too long!

After what nears three years of inactivity, i just yesterday bought myself some bits n' pieces.

Asus P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3
Intel Core i7 2700k
Some kingston 1600 mhz memory 8Gb's of it
A bluray drive + a liteOn dvd bruner..

From before:

Asus GTX 560Ti
Corsair HX 750

Now, i got quite good at clocking my old Q6600, maybe because Asus made it so damned easy, and maybe it was luck. But if i could ask you guys to point me in the direction of a good "how to" guide for clocking Core i7's on this board.
There are so many new parameters in the Bios.
Some look familiar, but . . . yeah, I'm getting old i guess.

Also I'm getting a double post on this board. .. funny..

Thankyou very very much for any help, I will be back to stay this time!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redalert*
> 
> Im hoping someone can help me. I had to RMA my Asus P8Z68 V Pro now Asus wont cover it under warranty due to trace damage unless I give them a $150 to replace it and it will take them another 5-10 business days before they finish. Im currently using a P8P67 now, should I even bother with the Asus P8Z68 V Pro and pay another $150?


Tuff luck there it happened to me when I damaged the socket on a 775 board one thing for sure it pays to be careful. One more thing to consider though I've seen reported here in the forums peeps are getting back from RMA Gen 3 boards as replacements which is an upgrade so it may well be worth the cost to end up with a Pro-V Gen 3 with full warranty in the end. One thing for sure you have nothing for your investment at this point at least they have offered you some salvation. GL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stianby*
> 
> Hello gents, it's been too long!
> 
> After what nears three years of inactivity, i just yesterday bought myself some bits n' pieces.
> 
> Asus P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3
> Intel Core i7 2700k
> Some kingston 1600 mhz memory 8Gb's of it
> A bluray drive + a liteOn dvd bruner..
> 
> From before:
> 
> Asus GTX 560Ti
> Corsair HX 750
> 
> Now, i got quite good at clocking my old Q6600, maybe because Asus made it so damned easy, and maybe it was luck. But if i could ask you guys to point me in the direction of a good "how to" guide for clocking Core i7's on this board.
> There are so many new parameters in the Bios.
> Some look familiar, but . . . yeah, I'm getting old i guess.
> 
> Also I'm getting a double post on this board. .. funny..
> 
> Thankyou very very much for any help, I will be back to stay this time!


I would head to the OP here in this thread tons of good info there to get you OCed right. Since it's no longer moderated I would take the time to read through this entire thread boring I know but tons of good tips throughout. GL


----------



## CattleCorn

Hey, can I be added to the club? Here's my P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3. I haven't started overclocking yet, but plan on doing so when I get some time. Thanks!


----------



## midimaxi

Hello,

i was lurking around for some time on this board and i found a lot of useful info here that helped me setup and overclock my ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe system with no problems so far... - thanks Turrican9 for organizing this ;-)
running i7 2600K @ 4.6MHz stable with no BSODs yet. temps are around 28-30C idle and around 60-63C under load with Corsair H80 cooler.

Anyway, I was wondering if this board can provide USB power when it's off? I've tried all ports and it seems like they only are powered when system is running. Is there anything in the BIOS that can be tweaked to enable this? I have the Logitech Performance MX wireless mouse that can be charged from the USB and my previous board was 680i which provided power to USB even when the system was off.

Thanks for any info! This is my first post here so please be gentle


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CattleCorn*
> 
> Hey, can I be added to the club? Here's my P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3. I haven't started overclocking yet, but plan on doing so when I get some time. Thanks!


The thread is no longer moderated by Turrican9 or anyone else but there are a few of us trying to keep it going. Let me be the first to welcome you. However you can still wear the tag in your sig which are located on the first page but your name will not be added to the list of owners.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midimaxi*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> i was lurking around for some time on this board and i found a lot of useful info here that helped me setup and overclock my ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe system with no problems so far... - thanks Turrican9 for organizing this ;-)
> running i7 2600K @ 4.6MHz stable with no BSODs yet. temps are around 28-30C idle and around 60-63C under load with Corsair H80 cooler.
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if this board can provide USB power when it's off? I've tried all ports and it seems like they only are powered when system is running. Is there anything in the BIOS that can be tweaked to enable this? I have the Logitech Performance MX wireless mouse that can be charged from the USB and my previous board was 680i which provided power to USB even when the system was off.
> 
> Thanks for any info! This is my first post here so please be gentle


I didn't do anything special to the bios or install the Asus Charge software and I get power from the rear top USB I/O ports but that's on a V-Pro 0902 bios .


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> The thread is no longer moderated by Turrican9 or anyone else but there are a few of us trying to keep it going. Let me be the first to welcome you. However you can still wear the tag in your sig which are located on the first page but your name will not be added to the list of owners.
> I didn't do anything special to the bios or install the Asus Charge software and I get power from the rear top USB I/O ports but that's on a V-Pro 0902 bios .


Have you had any thoughts about asking Turrican9 if you could take on the thread? You would be good at that if you had the inclination/time/energy. The first post can be transferred in such circumstances.


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> 62° @ stock is ok or too hot i use cm tx3
> when i game i went to 40 to 62 :/


When I push my 2600K (stock clock) to 100% load I usually get around 60 degrees, but that's only at full load. I think you should download Prime95 to see what temps you get at full load.


----------



## MercurySteam

Anybody using the 1101 BIOS on the P8Z68-V Pro? Can you report any issues?


----------



## chi09es

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> Anybody using the 1101 BIOS on the P8Z68-V Pro? Can you report any issues?


No issues nor improvement notable at all!


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chi09es*
> 
> No issues nor improvement notable at all!


I'm getting the issue with the Realtek audio manager disconnecting and reconnecting the audio device resulting in occasional sound cut-outs, and the mobo reading CPU temps 10 degrees lower than they actually are on 0902.


----------



## dujo11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MercurySteam*
> 
> I'm getting the issue with the Realtek audio manager disconnecting and reconnecting the audio device resulting in occasional sound cut-outs, and the mobo reading CPU temps 10 degrees lower than they actually are on 0902.


Only thing i've noticed are bit higher temp values.. Everything else is ok.. with 902 temp where lower about 5C.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> The thread is no longer moderated by Turrican9 or anyone else but there are a few of us trying to keep it going. Let me be the first to welcome you. However you can still wear the tag in your sig which are located on the first page but your name will not be added to the list of owners.
> I didn't do anything special to the bios or install the Asus Charge software and I get power from the rear top USB I/O ports but that's on a V-Pro 0902 bios .
> 
> 
> 
> Have you had any thoughts about asking Turrican9 if you could take on the thread? You would be good at that if you had the inclination/time/energy. The first post can be transferred in such circumstances.
Click to expand...

I would like to see this thread be moderated by the OP Tirrican9 or someone else too but I'm not clear the latter is even a possibility or that it should be. Maybe one of the forum moderators/administrator can chime in here but I think this can only be done by starting a new thread.

I personally do not have the time required to stay on top of the thread like it deserves but I thank you for your vote of confidence. However I intend to stick around for as long as I own the board and help those who are in need if I can. The plain truth of the matter is I could never fill the shoes of Tiriccan9 and what he/she has established here. Tiriccan9 has set the bar very high. The sheer size/volume and organization of collected knowledge, resources and shared experiences in this thread should never be undermined. It is a comprehensive guide but moreover it is a labor of love which I would never want to take credit for or be responsible for, in any way shape or form nor do I think I could do it near as well as it has been done. Only the OP deserves to honored in this regard.

I do not understand what the disconnect is but I wish there were someway to repair it. Furthermore I wish Tiriccan9 would clearly articulate in the OP the what where how and why for abandoning the peeps that supported this thread and let the chips fall where they may. To be clear, It's not that Tiriccan9 owes us that, it's that Tiriccan9 deserves to be heard for all the effort taken which has no doubt been to all our benefit. I'd also like to know where you are going because I'd like to follow you there.

It seems to me it would be mutually beneficial by all parties concerned to resolve their difference. You can not turn back a search result on one of these motherboards without a link back to this forum or this thread. That alone should be enough said in terms of this forum owing Tiriccan9 for the hard work but it's the work not yet done which makes this person a valuable resource that I would not want to loose if it where my forum.


----------



## Salty85

Can anyone help me with this issue? I noticed that my case LEDs and USB power remains on when the computer is off, is there any way to disable this feature? I have tried everything, AI charger is listed as disabled, but it always crashes when I try to change the setting, but shows disabled.


----------



## abosnowman

Hey guys I just purchased the P8Z68-V Pro (non Gen3) for my new build. Am I going to need to update the BIOS when I put everything together this week or should I keep what it has already? I don't know if you can tell what BIOS is on there without powering everything up but if it helps the board revision is 1.01. Any advice?


----------



## Sym_

Does anyone know how to get rid of the cpu fan error message? I get it everytime and it forces me to go into the bios, is there some way to make the mobo stop checking for it? My temps are more than desirable.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> I just setup a system similar to this on a P8Z68V/Core i5-2400 system. I used a 64GB Corsair M4 paired with a 1TB Hitachi drive and it is really fast... gives my 80Gb SSD/Win7/64 setup a run for the money.
> I setup the BIOS as RAID... THEN installed Win7/64HP. Later in IRST I setup the cache drive.... which becomes invisible. The cache is tied to one drive, not all of them.
> Edit: corrected Hitachi drive from GB to TB. Oops.


Thanks for the reply. I'm beginning to wonder if setting up a 'Intel Smart Response Technology' system is worth it or not. I can say the bigger the HD you use with it the better. Anyway, how do you like the Corsair? Any issues? Firmware instal issues? Thanks....


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I figured it out finally. Kind of derp on my side but kind of not at the same time. Three things.
> 1. Memory went south after the old, mother board overvolted it to 2 V.
> 2. ISO image keeps downloading corrupt from Microsoft. Working on resolving this issue some how....
> 3. Mushkin SSD is a dud, officially.
> I'm running from my old 64bit Ultimate ISO now on the M4 drive. I installed the new terabyte Baracuda and I'm copying over file archives now to it. Then I will rip out the old 500GB drive and just have drum rolllll.... The SSD and one terabyte drive, until the Mushkin replacement gets here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Then I will have two SSDs installed. I'm thinking about how to do this. I guess I could get the good ISO then install it on the mushkin one and use this one for apps or a back up drive.. something.
> Any way, yep that was a good little adventure I had there. I decided to try to install to the terabyte drive and it failed with the same message at 11%. I knew at that point the disc even though I had burnt three new ones or four,, was bad.. I dug out my old one from the garbage and went to town on trying to install to the Chronos deluxe and it wouldn't even get picked up by the motherboard any more. I used the M4 and it went like a dream for me...
> In other words I jumped the gun to early on the iso image from Microsoft. I did try to verify the Hash but I couldn't find it on the internet. I re downloaded it again through the Microsoft store but the iso version this time and it, verified at the end what the hash was and said it failed, twice now actually. I gave up for a night on that part.
> I'm downloading battlefield 3 now!!


Wow, who knew? It seems it's always something screwy, but you found it. I figured you'd get around to checking the memory and sure enough. And corruption from Microsoft?...lol... And Mushkin makes such good products, but then again it can happen to any companies hardware. Glad you found the main underlying cause of all this. You'll be a happy camper now that things are working as they should. Nice to hear a happy ending....!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I would like to see this thread be moderated by the OP Tirrican9 or someone else too but I'm not clear the latter is even a possibility or that it should be. Maybe one of the forum moderators/administrator can chime in here but I think this can only be done by starting a new thread.
> I personally do not have the time required to stay on top of the thread like it deserves but I thank you for your vote of confidence. However I intend to stick around for as long as I own the board and help those who are in need if I can. The plain truth of the matter is I could never fill the shoes of Tiriccan9 and what he/she has established here. Tiriccan9 has set the bar very high. The sheer size/volume and organization of collected knowledge, resources and shared experiences in this thread should never be undermined. It is a comprehensive guide but moreover it is a labor of love which I would never want to take credit for or be responsible for, in any way shape or form nor do I think I could do it near as well as it has been done. Only the OP deserves to honored in this regard.
> I do not understand what the disconnect is but I wish there were someway to repair it. Furthermore I wish Tiriccan9 would clearly articulate in the OP the what where how and why for abandoning the peeps that supported this thread and let the chips fall where they may. To be clear, It's not that Tiriccan9 owes us that, it's that Tiriccan9 deserves to be heard for all the effort taken which has no doubt been to all our benefit. I'd also like to know where you are going because I'd like to follow you there.
> It seems to me it would be mutually beneficial by all parties concerned to resolve their difference. You can not turn back a search result on one of these motherboards without a link back to this forum or this thread. That alone should be enough said in terms of this forum owing Tiriccan9 for the hard work but it's the work not yet done which makes this person a valuable resource that I would not want to loose if it where my forum.


I'm new here, but I too feel a bit sad that the thread isn't as popular as it once was. There are a lot of folks building with this series of AUSU mobo's and a little help is always appreciated in getting things going once the build is done. I understand not having the time to be a moderator, it takes a lot of time (which personally none of us really have). But hopefully the thread will be kept alive and more good questions & answers will help everyone that ventures by here.

I know I'll be around here for as much time as I can possibly squeeze into my schedule and thanks to all that read and contribute!


----------



## Anraiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I've read through all your post and at this point you should use your P67 board with proc memory and hard drive ( w/ windows on it) from the Z board that has been shutting down randomly. As always it can be a tedious process of elimination to get to the root cause and this will eliminate the motherboard. If you no longer have the random shut downs I would RMA the motherboard. If you do then it's either the memory or proc so again go back to you known working system components with one of those at a time. My first option at that point would be the Proc and I would try that with the known good working components. The good news is unlike most you have the components sitting around the get the job done. I know it's a pain but you should be able to determine if it's working before you will have to reauthorize windows because of the motherboard change making it a bit less painful. GL


Reporting back. So my initial deduction seems right. The Sandy Bridge does not seem to like a Video Card made in 2002-2004. After I installed the driver, it would give me the constant reset. Now, I switch cards, it is gone.

I will come back with more updates should it persist.


----------



## phenom01

Just got my rig up and running went from a stock AMD 965, 4gb, 4890, WD black raid-0. to the rig in my sig at 4.7ghz 1.37v currently only been up and running 1 day. I cant describe the sheer awesomeness. Its my first intel rig, first uefi, first ssd. All this sheer epicness combined makes me want to cry.


----------



## capflamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiZARD7*
> 
> I've just bought a P8Z68-V GEN3 mobo (+2500k, 8 gb Corsair Vengeance LP White -1.35V), I'm using my "old" Noctua NH-D14, with the 3 pin Noctua fans.
> I tried controlling the fans in bios/windows utility, but it won't do anything, they are spinning at their max RPM, and it is a little loud.
> What is the problem, how can I control them?
> (on my old Gigabyte P35 the auto fan control worked fine...)


3 pins fan don't have the rpm sensor. Speed adjustement for cpu fan is based on speed, so no possible adjustment with 3-pin fans, it always runs at max. You can plug your 3-pin cpu fan to the chassis fan plug. The chassis fan speed adjustment is based on voltage, so you your 3-pin cpu fan should be managed correctly by this plug. But then, you have to stick something else to the cpu fan plug otherwise your bios will always warn you about cpu fan problem.Thats what I did with my noctua 3-pin fan, and I pluged a chassis fan in the cpu fan plug, so the bios is happy.


----------



## ltg2227

Just wondering which LAN driver I should use from the Asus site???


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227*
> 
> Just wondering which LAN driver I should use from the Asus site???


Those are Intel drivers.







Doesn't your Crosshair IV Formula have a Marvell nic? Search for Marvell 8059 driver version 11.45.1.3 for the latest one.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*
> 
> Those are Intel drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't your Crosshair IV Formula have a Marvell nic? Search for Marvell 8059 driver version 11.45.1.3 for the latest one.


sorry about that, i built a new Intel system, so that is what i'm asking about. p8z68-pro mobo!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I would like to see this thread be moderated by the OP Tirrican9 or someone else too but I'm not clear the latter is even a possibility or that it should be. Maybe one of the forum moderators/administrator can chime in here but I think this can only be done by starting a new thread.
> I personally do not have the time required to stay on top of the thread like it deserves but I thank you for your vote of confidence. However I intend to stick around for as long as I own the board and help those who are in need if I can. The plain truth of the matter is I could never fill the shoes of Tiriccan9 and what he/she has established here. Tiriccan9 has set the bar very high. The sheer size/volume and organization of collected knowledge, resources and shared experiences in this thread should never be undermined. It is a comprehensive guide but moreover it is a labor of love which I would never want to take credit for or be responsible for, in any way shape or form nor do I think I could do it near as well as it has been done. Only the OP deserves to honored in this regard.
> I do not understand what the disconnect is but I wish there were someway to repair it. Furthermore I wish Tiriccan9 would clearly articulate in the OP the what where how and why for abandoning the peeps that supported this thread and let the chips fall where they may. To be clear, It's not that Tiriccan9 owes us that, it's that Tiriccan9 deserves to be heard for all the effort taken which has no doubt been to all our benefit. I'd also like to know where you are going because I'd like to follow you there.
> It seems to me it would be mutually beneficial by all parties concerned to resolve their difference. You can not turn back a search result on one of these motherboards without a link back to this forum or this thread. That alone should be enough said in terms of this forum owing Tiriccan9 for the hard work but it's the work not yet done which makes this person a valuable resource that I would not want to loose if it where my forum.


This almost broke my heart.









This means alot to me. Really...

However, I cannot take all the credit, a Club is only as good as it's Club members..

I think OCN lost alot of good members after the big forum change... Sad but true... Me and many others feel the forums have been ruined completely after the change...

Reading stuff like this have made me re-think... I will consider coming back... I have vacation in a few days, so will probably look at the first posts of this Club and try to fix what was broken by the forum-layout change.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I would like to see this thread be moderated by the OP Tirrican9 or someone else too but I'm not clear the latter is even a possibility or that it should be. Maybe one of the forum moderators/administrator can chime in here but I think this can only be done by starting a new thread.


I'm very clear on this because i have done it and OP the bold threads in my sig. Look after the GTX 460 club spreadsheets as well. A couple of them I took on because I thought those threads were too good to be allowed to die.

If the original op is agreeable, or even only if they gave been awol for a couple of months, a moderator can get you to do a new "placeholder post" which is moved to the first post position. That's how a thread changes OP/Thread Starter.

People can get "burn out" looking after threads. I can understand that.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227*
> 
> sorry about that, i built a new Intel system, so that is what i'm asking about. p8z68-pro mobo!










Then in that case, go to Intel's website and download the latest 16.7 drivers.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I'm very clear on this because i have done it and OP the bold threads in my sig. Look after the GTX 460 club spreadsheets as well. A couple of them I took on because I thought those threads were too good to be allowed to die.
> If the original op is agreeable, or even only if they gave been awol for a couple of months, a moderator can get you to do a new "placeholder post" which is moved to the first post position. That's how a thread changes OP/Thread Starter.
> People can get "burn out" looking after threads. I can understand that.


I've already made a statement at the previous page








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> This almost broke my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This means alot to me. Really...
> However, I cannot take all the credit, a Club is only as good as it's Club members..
> I think OCN lost alot of good members after the big forum change... Sad but true... Me and many others feel the forums have been ruined completely after the change...
> Reading stuff like this have made me re-think... I will consider coming back... I have vacation in a few days, so will probably look at the first posts of this Club and try to fix what was broken by the forum-layout change.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I'm beginning to wonder if setting up a 'Intel Smart Response Technology' system is worth it or not. I can say the bigger the HD you use with it the better. Anyway, how do you like the Corsair? Any issues? Firmware instal issues? Thanks....


I had problems corrupting the cache with improper shut downs. I definitely recommend you do your Overclocking to 100% stable before you build the cache otherwise it certain lt sped up the system with raptors I had attached at the time but even that takes quit a few hours and restarts to begin to become efficient and I suppose it gets better with the more time it used like using ready boot I think the two are very similar.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anraiki*
> 
> Reporting back. So my initial deduction seems right. The Sandy Bridge does not seem to like a Video Card made in 2002-2004. After I installed the driver, it would give me the constant reset. Now, I switch cards, it is gone.
> 
> I will come back with more updates should it persist.


Glad to hear you got it sorted









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*
> 
> Those are Intel drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't your Crosshair IV Formula have a Marvell nic? Search for Marvell 8059 driver version 11.45.1.3 for the latest one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry about that, i built a new Intel system, so that is what i'm asking about. p8z68-pro mobo!
Click to expand...

There is a P68Z68 M Pro which use the Realtek RTL8111E LAN Driver or V Pro which uses the Intel Gigabit Ethernet Driver: 16.7

tHE BEST PLACE TO GET THE MOST UP TO DATE DRIVERS FOR WHICH EVER BOARD YOU HAVE IS HERE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> This almost broke my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This means alot to me. Really...
> 
> However, I cannot take all the credit, a Club is only as good as it's Club members..
> 
> I think OCN lost alot of good members after the big forum change... Sad but true... Me and many others feel the forums have been ruined completely after the change...
> 
> Reading stuff like this have made me re-think... I will consider coming back... I have vacation in a few days, so will probably look at the first posts of this Club and try to fix what was broken by the forum-layout change.


I have created and moderated my own stickies over at EVGA forum so I definitely feel ya and very happy you are reconsidering!


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I had problems corrupting the cache with improper shut downs. I definitely recommend you do your Overclocking to 100% stable before you build the cache otherwise it certain lt sped up the system with raptors I had attached at the time but even that takes quit a few hours and restarts to begin to become efficient and I suppose it gets better with the more time it used like using ready boot I think the two are very similar.
> Glad to hear you got it sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a P68Z68 M Pro which use the Realtek RTL8111E LAN Driver or V Pro which uses the Intel Gigabit Ethernet Driver: 16.7
> tHE BEST PLACE TO GET THE MOST UP TO DATE DRIVERS FOR WHICH EVER BOARD YOU HAVE IS HERE
> I have created and moderated my own stickies over at EVGA forum so I definitely feel ya and very happy you are reconsidering!


I have the P8Z68-V PRO and thanks for the link, exactly what I needed!!!! +rep!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> This almost broke my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This means alot to me. Really...
> However, I cannot take all the credit, a Club is only as good as it's Club members..
> I think OCN lost alot of good members after the big forum change... Sad but true... Me and many others feel the forums have been ruined completely after the change...
> Reading stuff like this have made me re-think... I will consider coming back... I have vacation in a few days, so will probably look at the first posts of this Club and try to fix what was broken by the forum-layout change.


Sorry that I missed this. I too had a lot of second thoughts with huddler... but i'm thinking that the forum is more about members than format, and that I have to look at it from there, and not get too offput by the new layer of obstacles that progress has brought.

This thread has already been invaluable to me sorting my build, and is a credit to you. I too would hope you could continue.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Wow, who knew? It seems it's always something screwy, but you found it. I figured you'd get around to checking the memory and sure enough. And corruption from Microsoft?...lol... And Mushkin makes such good products, but then again it can happen to any companies hardware. Glad you found the main underlying cause of all this. You'll be a happy camper now that things are working as they should. Nice to hear a happy ending....!


Check this out o m f g. I believe I can lower the voltage right here. I like this spot but believe I can go higher with more vrm frequency and about the same voltage too. I have it set to high, for the Load Line. I went and got the Kingston Hyper X since I got everything working now after replacing everything lol. I went ahead and paid the little $5 extra for this chip and boy was it worth it.



I just noticed Core Temp displays the cpu as a 2600K lol. Silly Core Temp.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I'm beginning to wonder if setting up a 'Intel Smart Response Technology' system is worth it or not. I can say the bigger the HD you use with it the better. Anyway, how do you like the Corsair? Any issues? Firmware instal issues? Thanks....


The M4 came with the latest firmware. I'm very impressed by the IRST SSD cache drive paired with the Hitachi drive. In retrospect, I wonder if I should have gone for the Intel 20GB SLC SSD instead though.


----------



## gomjabar

Is there a way to set S1 sleep with this mobo? I have the LX version. I use S1 for garbage collection with my ssd drives in raid 0. Ive looked for this in the bios and have disable C3 and C6 but that still doesnt stop the computer from going to what appears to be S3 sleep whenever I try it. Thanks.


----------



## Danger72

RMA'd my board. Some bios setting kept resetting to default value when trying to overclock and could never get more than 2 sticks of RAM to work. I did manage to get A1 & B1 to work with RAM in it but to many quirks to keep the board. RMA'd the RAM as well. Looking at these two to replace the ones I RMA'd but can't decide which one.

Lower Voltage?
G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 Sniper SE 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 1.25V Memory Kit
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59978

or

Faster RAM?
G.SKILL F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR Sniper SE 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1866 CL9-10-9-28 1.5V Memory Kit
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59977


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danger72*
> 
> RMA'd my board. Some bios setting kept resetting to default value when trying to overclock and could never get more than 2 sticks of RAM to work. I did manage to get A1 & B1 to work with RAM in it but to many quirks to keep the board. RMA'd the RAM as well. Looking at these two to replace the ones I RMA'd but can't decide which one.
> Lower Voltage?
> G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 Sniper SE 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 1.25V Memory Kit
> http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59978
> or
> Faster RAM?
> G.SKILL F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR Sniper SE 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1866 CL9-10-9-28 1.5V Memory Kit
> http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59977


I would go for Corsair XMS memory. I have XMS 2000 CAS9 and it's running awesome. On that note every one.

New awesome spot for me. Turns out if I give the MB a little more VRM frequency I can go 5GHz and beyond.



Update:



This is a miracle happening to me right?? I'm shocked.


----------



## am dew1

I have a new system based on the P8Z68V-Pro/GEN3 board and I5-2500K. So far, I love it. Has anyone upgraded to the latest BIOS for this board (version 0402)? Shall I bother with updating?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danger72*
> 
> RMA'd my board. Some bios setting kept resetting to default value when trying to overclock and could never get more than 2 sticks of RAM to work. I did manage to get A1 & B1 to work with RAM in it but to many quirks to keep the board. RMA'd the RAM as well. Looking at these two to replace the ones I RMA'd but can't decide which one.
> 
> Lower Voltage?
> G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 Sniper SE 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 1.25V Memory Kit
> http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59978
> 
> or
> 
> Faster RAM?
> G.SKILL F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR Sniper SE 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1866 CL9-10-9-28 1.5V Memory Kit
> http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59977


I'd opt for either the 1866 9-10-9-28 or a 1600 8-8-8-24 1.5V kit.

The lower voltage stuff is very nice if you're interested in silent/green computing though. I guess it depends on your use. The lower voltage stuff will decrease the heat in your case some but it's negligible compared to an overclocked CPU or GPU.


----------



## Tyreman

New Bios for P8P67 rev.3.1..Bios 2103


----------



## shad0wfax

My WS Revolution 3.0 is still on 1402. I'd love a new BIOS if it improved anything for me.


----------



## Anraiki

Wah. This board is really problematic. Even though I own one, my newest one just like to be annoying.

The computer decided to just "turn itself back on" for some reason, and now is giving it's initial problem once more: reset, shut off, and loop again.


----------



## truehighroller1

Ok, highest I could get in to windows with. It was to hot for Intel Burn Test and not stable lol. I made it in to windows though lol. I believe with a better loop I could pull it off with better temps that is.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2156406


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anraiki*
> 
> Wah. This board is really problematic. Even though I own one, my newest one just like to be annoying.
> The computer decided to just "turn itself back on" for some reason, and now is giving it's initial problem once more: reset, shut off, and loop again.


Post your parts and settings..most likely a setting issue


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> The M4 came with the latest firmware. I'm very impressed by the IRST SSD cache drive paired with the Hitachi drive. In retrospect, I wonder if I should have gone for the Intel 20GB SLC SSD instead though.


Thanks, I am wondering about the smaller SSD also, but since the price factor on the 60 to 64gig SSD's are about all the same I will go with one of them, probably the Corsair. Thanks!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Ok, highest I could get in to windows with. It was to hot for Intel Burn Test and not stable lol. I made it in to windows though lol. I believe with a better loop I could pull it off with better temps that is.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2156406


WoW, seems now that everything is working you're on a 'high' with the build...lol....Glad everything worked out for you. I'll be getting a few more parts for my build after the big holiday this weekend, just don't know what to get first.  (Guess that depends on how much Santa makes the gift certificate for...lol...)


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Ok, highest I could get in to windows with. It was to hot for Intel Burn Test and not stable lol. I made it in to windows though lol. I believe with a better loop I could pull it off with better temps that is.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2156406


WoW I'm officially very jealous that's a great chip you got there. I was impressed at 1.352 at 5.0 but this makes me weep I want me sum.


----------



## dartuil

i really need one of these K cpu:








crazy oc


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> WoW, seems now that everything is working you're on a 'high' with the build...lol....Glad everything worked out for you. I'll be getting a few more parts for my build after the big holiday this weekend, just don't know what to get first.  (Guess that depends on how much Santa makes the gift certificate for...lol...)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> WoW I'm officially very jealous that's a great chip you got there. I was impressed at 1.352 at 5.0 but this makes me weep I want me sum.


Thank you Jae. I hope Santa is good to you this year as well







. God knows he was good to me.

owcraftsman, that's what I was thinking right. The Chip is the best I have seen any one talk about on the internet from my research.

Batch# 3123C143

I just got it at Micro center so these might very well be still floating around right now.
I was contemplating selling it but, nah lol. I will sell it for what I paid for it later down the road when I switch to 2011 or what ever comes next after it I suppose.

I can't wait to put the 2 Sandforce 2281 controller 240GB SSDs together in Raid 0














. New Egg should get back my Bad Mushkin tomorrow. I'm hoping I can talk them in to rushing it because I overnight-ed it when I bought it.

I'm sorry I'm rambling. I'm super! stoked! about the setup I landed in the long run. Thanks for the nod, and help guys.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Thanks, I am wondering about the smaller SSD also, but since the price factor on the 60 to 64gig SSD's are about all the same I will go with one of them, probably the Corsair. Thanks!


Keep in mind the bigger ones are likely going to be MLC instead of SLC SSDs. And for a cache drive, 20GB should be plenty.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> Keep in mind the bigger ones are likely going to be MLC instead of SLC SSDs. And for a cache drive, 20GB should be plenty.


Hi,
Good advice. The way I see it is the mlc is like a 2-story complex where the slc is a single complex. The slc should/will last longer than the mlc because of the single design. They (slc) are better controlled. (1-bit, 1-cell vs. mlc, 2-bits to 1 cell). (please correct if I'm wrong.) Anyway I don't have the capitol for a large SSD, at most it'll be between 64gig and 120gig. The good thing I read about the SSD slc's is they will last anywhere from 50 to 140 years, which will long outlast the other hardware in my setup...lol....

I'll probably end up mating a 64gig ssd with a 800 gig HD. This should be fine to house my OS and cache and speed up the HD. Now I'm wondering how long it'll take to start seeing results once it's up and running (meaning results of the HD being faster with the cache).


----------



## dartuil

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115083
do you guys thinks that xeon can go on my z68?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115083
> do you guys thinks that xeon can go on my z68?


Here's the page where it lists what processor's are compatible with your mobo (same mobo I have): http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68V_LE/#CPUS I didn't see the xeon listed so I doubt it will work, but check for yourself.

http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68V_LE/#CPUS


----------



## truehighroller1

My 2281 SF 240GB SSD Drives in Raid0.



Very happy with the results. This motherboard rocks out.


----------



## dartuil

what bios do you have ?
RCPilotJAE


----------



## Overclockname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I have a new system based on the P8Z68V-Pro/GEN3 board and I5-2500K. So far, I love it. Has anyone upgraded to the latest BIOS for this board (version 0402)? Shall I bother with updating?


Very first thing I did on my v-pro/Gen3 in my first new build was to update to BIOS 0402. Worked like a charm using the "ez flash 2" and a USB drive. I can't say if you'll see any major benefit from it as I never used the original BIOS. But it was easy to do and so far, as far as I can tell, it works fine. Disclosure: I'm a newbie at this computer building.


----------



## truehighroller1

The setup I have right now could break records with a couple more new GPU's in it I bet. Asus should sponsor me and give me some new stuff . I would love to see this thing on PHASE cooling. I can take the crown on some benchies with this bad boy. Funny thing is, I've always managed to get good CPUs. I'm destined to be an overclocking GOD!









I almost won a Gigabyte Overclocking contest awhile ago. People started entering who had phase units and knocked me out of it. I had a Q6600, I can't remember what I had for the overclock but it was the highest up until the end when the phase units joined and knocked me out lol.

God I was pissed lol. It was winter so I had my unit out side and the cables run in to the house lol.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> what bios do you have ?
> RCPilotJAE


Hi...First thing I did when I got the board up and running was to update it to the latest bios which is 0805. The ASUS boards have to be the easiest boards to update bios with. A push of a few keys and in less than a second it's updated.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> The setup I have right now could break records with a couple more new GPU's in it I bet. Asus should sponsor me and give me some new stuff . I would love to see this thing on PHASE cooling. I can take the crown on some benchies with this bad boy. Funny thing is, I've always managed to get good CPUs. I'm destined to be an overclocking GOD!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost won a Gigabyte Overclocking contest awhile ago. People started entering who had phase units and knocked me out of it. I had a Q6600, I can't remember what I had for the overclock but it was the highest up until the end when the phase units joined and knocked me out lol.
> God I was pissed lol. It was winter so I had my unit out side and the cables run in to the house lol.


OMG, that's funny. I'm near Buffalo, NY and it gets extremely cold here and one winter I was thinking the same thing, stick the build outside and go nuts. I think it was like -8 to -14F for a couple of days, I think that would have kept the CPU cold enough...lol...(especially with a couple feet of snow that would have built up on top of it...talk about water cooled...)


----------



## jamor

Do you guys know why some Drivers have TWO setup.exe's ?

USB 3.0 ASMedia Driver,
AI Suite II Driver,
Bluetooth Atheros AR3011:

AsusSetup.exe
Setup.exe

..

What is AsusSetup.exe?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> Do you guys know why some Drivers have TWO setup.exe's ?
> 
> USB 3.0 ASMedia Driver,
> AI Suite II Driver,
> Bluetooth Atheros AR3011:
> 
> AsusSetup.exe
> Setup.exe
> 
> ..
> 
> What is AsusSetup.exe?


Usually there's a setup file that will show the asus GUI and have a selection list that will link to other Asus setup files, such as one for drivers, one for the AI suite, one for USB 3.0, and so on. The other setup is the individual installer for the specific component in the directory you're in. (And this one is the one called by the first installer to run.)

That's been my experience with the Asus setups.


----------



## dartuil

what is your detailled rig RCPilotJAE


----------



## Ravynmagi

Having nothing but trouble with my new ASUS P8Z68-V board. About to RMA it, but wanted to see if maybe anyone had any ideas first.

i5 2500K and Corsair CMX8GX3M2B1600C9 (DDR3-1600 1.5v) installed.

First issue I noticed was legacy keyboard support not working. Even without any other USB devices plugged in the USB keyboard (and I tried 3 different ones) would sometimes not work.

Next issue the motherboard sensors seemed a bit goofy. Using Open Hardware Monitor, I noticed that sometimes and extra CPU temp sensor would show up. At first I figured it was the program. But it also seems like my CPU fan will slow down when this extra CPU sensor shows up, and so my real CPU core temps start rising due to the low CPU fan RPM. Made me afraid to Prime95 the motherboard because of this.

I dragged some icons onto my desktop. Later on I realized this icons were gone. If I look in the \Users\...\Desktop\ folder I could see those icons, they aren't hidden, but I don't see them on the desktop. Not sure if it's related to my motherboard issue, and didn't think much of at the time.

About every 2 or 3 reboots some of my USB devices would show up as new hardware again, even though they hadn't been unplugged. Even had one of my SATA hard drives show up again as a new device.

Sometimes one of the SATA drives wants to run a chkdsk when Windows starts up. And a large number of orphaned files are found (or so say the dialog). I've been using the drive with my previous motherboard and believe it's fine. And what is weird is every few reboots it'll come up again and again claim to find the exact same errors. Seems peculiar.

Also when I try to run some recently downloaded apps from a different hard drive, I get an error that the EXE file is not a valid WIndows program. If I redownload the file, it works fine. Seems curious.

And then things finally went south when logged in after a reboot and got a message from ASUS AI that there was an access violation error. I click OK and the app close. I tried to run another app and got another access violation error. I tried to uninstall ASUS Tools and got an Access Violation error. Some apps seem to work, while some don't. So I tried a system restore back a few hours. And still had the same problems.

So I thought maybe some of these issues are related to a bad OS install. I booted from my Windows 7 DVD and tried to reinstall, but for some reason not all my drives are showing up. However the one I need is there, so I tried to proceed only to get an error that I can't install WIndows do this drive. I deleted all the partitions on the drive and tried again and still can't install WIndows.

*sigh* Oh crap. I can't believe all these issues I'm having. I put my old P45 motherboard back in, with all the other same hardware (plus my Q9550 and DDR2 memory) and everything is back and running smooth. No USB issues, no more issues with any of my hard drives.

So is it just a bad board. Anything I could do?

The board has a BIOS version of 0301. I reflashed that same BIOS (it's the latest on ASUS's website). I reset the BIOS settings to factory defaults.


----------



## shad0wfax

@Ravynmagi

I would say that you have a bad motherboard or possibly are in dire need of a BIOS update that may not be available. Given that everything works wonderfully in your other motherboard, you can eliminate them as variables and know that it's either your motherboard or BIOS settings.

One thing you could do is try disabling everything possible in your BIOS and then adding one feature at a time to determine which element is unstable.

There is also the possibility that your RAM is incompatible with your new motherboard. Do you have any other RAM to test with? Is your RAM on the Qualified Vendor List for that motherboard?

If you can afford it, you might want to pick up the least expensive RAM available that is on the Qualified Vendor List (or borrow some if you can) to verify that it's not just an incompatibility issue. If it's not a RAM compatibility issue, then I'd fall back on a bad BIOS (or simply that there is no good BIOS available) or it's a bad motherboard.


----------



## Danger72

@Ravynmagi

I've got or had at the moment, a P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3 and I was having some issues with it. Didn't like any RAM in the B1 or B2 slots. Bios kept reverting some of the settings to default. Some of my HDD would show up as new devices after a reboot. I finally got fed up and RMA'd the board. Found out there was a broken pin on the board. Unfortunately I'm being blamed for the broken pin and I am currently waiting on what the decision will be regarding the board as I flatly refuse to pay ASUS $90 to fix the board as I am 100% sure I did not break the pin. Not sure how it got broken but I was way to careful to have done it myself.

You might want to check over the board CPU pins and see if any are bent or even broken. Either way you should RMA the board if all the hardware works on your old board.


----------



## turrican9

Trying to edit this thread... Is it not possible to choose text color without knowing the color code?? And is there no choice for fonts anymore?? This is ridiculous compared to the old forum...









I had alot of different colors for the different P8P67/P8Z68 owners in the members list, this new forum is making it hopeless for me.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Trying to edit this thread... Is it not possible to choose text color without knowing the color code?? And is there no choice for fonts anymore?? This is ridiculous compared to the old forum...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had alot of different colors for the different P8P67/P8Z68 owners in the members list, this new forum is making it hopeless for me.


Yeah the colorshere aren't so great. I noticed it the most in signatures where colors in the message itself would work but in signatures it's all default or blue.

EDIT: You can go to preferences and enable the Rich Text Format editing instead of the BB code format. This is a rainbow made in the rich text format editing mode and it worked ok. Size seems to work ok although I don't see a font method. Oh well.

You get the idea. it can be done. Just click on the preferences button right next to the search this thread and subscribe options.


----------



## alancsalt

In the plain text editor there is color next to size

You don't have to know the number. There are 147 color names are defined in the HTML and CSS color specification (17 standard colors plus 130 more)

like blue, green, red, yellow, purple, in basic colors and then variations like AntiqueWhite, CadetBlue, etc.

If you hit quote you'll see what I mean There is a list at...

http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colornames.asp

May be easier than looking up number codes(hexadecimal) at http://html-color-codes.com/ or using the Rich Text option. Once you use that you're stuck with it.


----------



## turrican9

Thanks guys... Working with the Rich text format now.. Not so bad at all... + REP for both


----------



## turrican9

Thanks guys... Working with the Rich text format now.. Not so bad at all... + REP for both 

wuups... double post.


----------



## truehighroller1

The guy having issues with his MB, yes RMA it if the pins are not bent...

On a side note I noticed that the 2600K I had, was only hitting 100% when preparing to load or warming up in IBT then when it would kick in all the Cores were hitting at random percentages and it never did hit 100%, under load.. This CPU hit's 100% like normal though.

I think the 2600K I had was a super freaking dud lol.

@ Jae:

I lived at an apartment with my family at the time. I lived on the second floor in a three story building. I had a back balcony it was~ perfect. It kept it from getting to wet from snow. I remember it got a little moister in it but it lives today, GA-P35-DQ6 setup with a Q6600, my friend owns it now.

I'm getting old fast lol.

Oh yeah, and why the hell is my signature not working?







Can some one please tell me how to and I will fix it.


----------



## mrboonmee

P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3
i7 2600K
Crucial M4 128g
G.Skill DDR3 1866 XMP #2

Win7 64 installed with only the SSD installed.

From the beep to seeing anything on the monitor about 20 seconds.

Runs perfectly other than the slow post thing.

Full Screen Logo: Disabled
Post Report: 1 Sec.
Boot option #1: Windows Boot manager

Advanced\Onboard Devices Config:

Marvell Storage Controller: Disabled
JMB Storage Controller: Disabled
Realtek LAN: Disabled
Intel PXE Option ROM: Disabled

Possible this has something to do with the EFI boot as opposed to MBR?

Willing to reinstall if it will boot normal with MBR, need to reset the SSD using DISKPART i think?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ravynmagi*
> 
> Having nothing but trouble with my new ASUS P8Z68-V board. About to RMA it, but wanted to see if maybe anyone had any ideas first.
> i5 2500K and Corsair CMX8GX3M2B1600C9 (DDR3-1600 1.5v) installed.
> First issue I noticed was legacy keyboard support not working. Even without any other USB devices plugged in the USB keyboard (and I tried 3 different ones) would sometimes not work.
> Next issue the motherboard sensors seemed a bit goofy. Using Open Hardware Monitor, I noticed that sometimes and extra CPU temp sensor would show up. At first I figured it was the program. But it also seems like my CPU fan will slow down when this extra CPU sensor shows up, and so my real CPU core temps start rising due to the low CPU fan RPM. Made me afraid to Prime95 the motherboard because of this.
> I dragged some icons onto my desktop. Later on I realized this icons were gone. If I look in the \Users\...\Desktop\ folder I could see those icons, they aren't hidden, but I don't see them on the desktop. Not sure if it's related to my motherboard issue, and didn't think much of at the time.
> About every 2 or 3 reboots some of my USB devices would show up as new hardware again, even though they hadn't been unplugged. Even had one of my SATA hard drives show up again as a new device.
> Sometimes one of the SATA drives wants to run a chkdsk when Windows starts up. And a large number of orphaned files are found (or so say the dialog). I've been using the drive with my previous motherboard and believe it's fine. And what is weird is every few reboots it'll come up again and again claim to find the exact same errors. Seems peculiar.
> Also when I try to run some recently downloaded apps from a different hard drive, I get an error that the EXE file is not a valid WIndows program. If I redownload the file, it works fine. Seems curious.
> And then things finally went south when logged in after a reboot and got a message from ASUS AI that there was an access violation error. I click OK and the app close. I tried to run another app and got another access violation error. I tried to uninstall ASUS Tools and got an Access Violation error. Some apps seem to work, while some don't. So I tried a system restore back a few hours. And still had the same problems.
> So I thought maybe some of these issues are related to a bad OS install. I booted from my Windows 7 DVD and tried to reinstall, but for some reason not all my drives are showing up. However the one I need is there, so I tried to proceed only to get an error that I can't install WIndows do this drive. I deleted all the partitions on the drive and tried again and still can't install WIndows.
> *sigh* Oh crap. I can't believe all these issues I'm having. I put my old P45 motherboard back in, with all the other same hardware (plus my Q9550 and DDR2 memory) and everything is back and running smooth. No USB issues, no more issues with any of my hard drives.
> So is it just a bad board. Anything I could do?
> The board has a BIOS version of 0301. I reflashed that same BIOS (it's the latest on ASUS's website). I reset the BIOS settings to factory defaults.


I'm thinking, bad mobo. Even with all the default settings and the driver disc that comes with it there shouldn't be any of the problems you're experiencing. I've read a few reviews where just one pin was bad and it pretty much made the mobo useless as it would do all sorts of strange things, some of which you describe. I know it's a PITA, but RMA the board and get a new one. I'll bet everything will work fine then. Good luck!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> @ Jae:
> I lived at an apartment with my family at the time. I lived on the second floor in a three story building. I had a back balcony it was~ perfect. It kept it from getting to wet from snow. I remember it got a little moister in it but it lives today, GA-P35-DQ6 setup with a Q6600, my friend owns it now.
> I'm getting old fast lol.
> Oh yeah, and why the hell is my signature not working?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can some one please tell me how to and I will fix it.


Funny you should say that, I'm still trying to get a signature with all my rigs stuff in it like I see in other posts. There's got to be a pre-setup quiz that you just fill out and then it shows up in your posts. They all look alike, that's why I say that. I'll try again.....sigh....


----------



## Karlz3r

Sign me up please!

Getting a P8Z68-V/GEN3 in 3 days!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> what is your detailled rig RCPilotJAE


ASUS P8Z68-V-LE
8 gigs Corsair Vengeance RAM (2x4GB @ 1600)
Cooler Master PS
I5 2400k @ 3.1GHz
2 - Seagate HD's @ 200 gigs each
1 - Seagate HD @ 800 gigs
1 - Fantom HD @ 2 Tera Bytes
1 - LiteOn DvD R/W
1 - Samsung DvD R/W
Case: NZXT M-59
An old 9800GT for graphics (better coming soon.....)
Windows 7 - 64bit
Monitor - ASUS VH222H

And all kinds of other stuff sitting around and will be buying more this coming week. Hoping to get either an SSD or new graphics card and will get a Corsair H60 or 80 water cooler for my processor.


----------



## dartuil

do you try the oc on 2400?


----------



## speedlever

i5-2400 is locked. You need a K processor to OC.

And speaking of sigs, I cannot seem to change what shows up in my system rig below a post. I can change it in my profile, but it doesn't change in the forums. I emailed the admin (or whoever the contact us person is) but got no reply.


----------



## abjectblitz

Is there anyway to force a P8Z68-V/ PRO -GEN3 bios onto a P8Z68-V/GEN3 (Non pro) ?

They released the new 0402 bios for the Pro but not for the non pro.

Pretty certain the bios would work as the only difference is the non pro has no marvel controller (even though it still has the option to disable it in bios.. lol).


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Just ordered an ASUS P8Z68V-PRO/GEN3. I'll be ordering the 2600K on payday this Thursday.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> do you try the oc on 2400?


If lucky you can take bclk to 107. That's about it AFAIK.


----------



## FPSDavid

I have a P8Z68-V and i5 2500k. I noticed that after overclocking to 4.8Ghz @ 1.415 voltage, the "speedstep" stuff doesn't seem to work...i know for sure its enabled. (CPU stays @ 4.8ghz even at idle). Is there any fix to this?

*UPDATE: I found another post that said to change "CPU C1E" in CPU Configuration from Auto to Enabled. Fixed now.*


----------



## dartuil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> If lucky you can take bclk to 107. That's about it AFAIK.


i just want a little 3.5 or 3.6ghz not more


----------



## Eaglesfan251

How do I join?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> How do I join?


Added!


----------



## alancsalt

Do P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3 owners get listed too?



http://www.hwbot.org/submission/2234550_


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Do P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3 owners get listed too?


Yes, they will. Do you have one?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Yes, they will. Do you have one?


What proof is needed? Willingly supplied. Added pic to previous post and bot link to best 3d11 score showing mobo in specs?

It's in Zagam in system specs below too....


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> What proof is needed? Willingly supplied. Added pic to previous post and bot link to best 3d11 score showing mobo in specs?
> It's in Zagam in system specs below too....


Added! Also with a link showing your picture!

For signature, copy and paste code below:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club]>>THE ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>[/URL]*


----------



## L36

Is the cold boot bug still present on P8Z68 boards with PLL over voltage enabled with the 1101 BIOS?
Thanks.


----------



## shad0wfax

Please add me to the *WS Revolution Rev B3* list please. 



It doesn't get much more valid than that. (And before you tell me that 30k ppd is too low and I should be getting 40k, I know, I was gaming while folding!)

EDIT: I was wearing the signature while you were gone, so now that you're back, I'd like to be all official and stuff.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Please add me to the *WS Revolution Rev B3* list please.
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't get much more valid than that. (And before you tell me that 30k ppd is too low and I should be getting 40k, I know, I was gaming while folding!)
> 
> EDIT: I was wearing the signature while you were gone, so now that you're back, I'd like to be all official and stuff.


Welcome!  You are added, and can now be an official member of the Club!


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Welcome!  You are added, and can now be an official member of the Club!


Yay, now I don't feel like a dirty ninja.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Added! Also with a link showing your picture!
> 
> For signature, copy and paste code below:
> 
> *http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club]>>THE ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>[/URL]*


Have to admit my sigspace is on the limit, and what to evict? Twill think on it......


----------



## dartuil

no p8z68v le on the list?

im lonely


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> no p8z68v le on the list?
> im lonely


Added!









Copy and paste for signature:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club]>>THE ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>[/URL]*


----------



## Sathirian

Add me please


----------



## HiLuckyB

Looks like I never got added
















http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2122423


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> Looks like I never got added
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2122423


Added! Welcome! Added with a link to this picture!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sathirian*
> 
> Add me please


Added! Welcome!


----------



## truehighroller1

Me too please.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Me too please.


Added!

Updated the Signature code.. This is the correct one.. :

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>[/URL]*


----------



## kdrxone

Hey everyone, got my 2500k yesterday with obviously the thread's mobo. The thing is beautiful.
However, would like some aid with OCing to 4.5 GHz, I have a noctua nh-d14 and got it to oc under 1.280v went 2 hrs in Prime and was absolutely fine. 60c under prime. Then my PC just shut down. No BSOD, nothing. Just shut down and only way to get it back up was turn power supply switch off and on. Then it was running fine again, same bios same everything. the PSU is a brand new TX650 v2 by Corsair. I've tried 140% Power Utilization in BIOS, i've just gone back to stock and its all good, played some BF3 (got same shut down when was OCed to 4.5ghz within 30 mins). I've looked around the bios, a lot of new settings, I come from p45 so please bear with me









Anything i should specifically look into? Cheers guys.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

As long as we're having a "Add me too, please" party...Would you be so kind as to also add me?

Thank you...


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Please add me to the *WS Revolution Rev B3* list please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't get much more valid than that. (And before you tell me that 30k ppd is too low and I should be getting 40k, I know, I was gaming while folding!)
> 
> EDIT: I was wearing the signature while you were gone, so now that you're back, I'd like to be all official and stuff.


Nope, sorry....Looks fake to me, got to do better to be valid....lol....(Just kidding, nice setup...)


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Truehighroller1....
Santa was pretty good to me. Got a Corsair H60 water cooler and a Patriot 60Gig SSD. Both are on their way and should be here Friday. So, Saturday I'll put the water cooler in and the SSD, but I'm still debating if I should go with the Rapid Storage Technology or just use the SSD as a boot drive along with a few programs I constantly use. I'd really like to try the IRST and see what it does and if I'd be happy with it. But this will take the better part of the day putting the OS back on and getting all the updates, then put my other stuff back on....you know, it takes a substantial amount of time to do all this. Either way, my processor will be cooler....









All:
Still trying to figure this one out if anyone knows about the PCIE slots. There's a black and a blue one. I tried my graphics card in the black slot first and it wouldn't even produce a picture. The machine would boot fine, etc; just no picture. Then I moved the card over to the blue slot where it seems to be working fine (with picture). What I don't understand is why it works in one slot and not the other. Arn't both slots basically the same and don't both support x16? Anyone?


----------



## splitpea

I just setup a 60gb SATA III SSD with IRST in my HTPC and am really surprised at how good it is. This is with a P8Z68-M Pro.

I have a desktop (P8Z68-V Pro) with two 120gb SSD in Raid 0 and I could swear the HTPC boots almost as fast as the desktop. I also play Skyrim on the HTPC and after running the game a few times it seems to have copied itself to the SSD cache, so that starts up super quick.

I say try the IRST first. It's less hassle than copying files back & forth between a HDD and SSD manually.


----------



## dartuil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> As long as we're having a "Add me too, please" party...Would you be so kind as to also add me?
> Thank you...


yeah one more p8z68v le owner


----------



## Karlz3r

Just finished with my computer's facelift.

Got the P8Z68-V/GEN3 today! I already requested to join a couple of pages ago (although I didn't have the mobo yet), perhaps I could be added now.









I just have to say the installation went nearly perfectly! I had to remount one of the Silver Arrow's fans from front to the back, because the huge fan in my Armor's sidepanel. I could squeeze the panel on, but it looked very bent and I just couldn't leave it that way.
The UEFI BIOS is definitely a HUGE step forward, I just love it!

I had my RAID-0 set up with my previous Maximus Formula and it worked like a charm after connecting it to this mobo - didn't even have to reinstall OS, just installed the new drivers.

Will be overclocking with this thing soon. At the moment - 4.33 GHz /1.32vCore (yeah, probably too much for the clock, but I won't be bothered with that right now).
Clickie

Blame Apple for the poor image quality.


----------



## turrican9

*RCPilotJAE and Karlz3r added to the Club! Welcome!*









Here is the Signature code, copy and paste if so wish:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>[/URL]*


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Truehighroller1....
> Santa was pretty good to me. Got a Corsair H60 water cooler and a Patriot 60Gig SSD. Both are on their way and should be here Friday. So, Saturday I'll put the water cooler in and the SSD, but I'm still debating if I should go with the Rapid Storage Technology or just use the SSD as a boot drive along with a few programs I constantly use. I'd really like to try the IRST and see what it does and if I'd be happy with it. But this will take the better part of the day putting the OS back on and getting all the updates, then put my other stuff back on....you know, it takes a substantial amount of time to do all this. Either way, my processor will be cooler....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All:
> Still trying to figure this one out if anyone knows about the PCIE slots. There's a black and a blue one. I tried my graphics card in the black slot first and it wouldn't even produce a picture. The machine would boot fine, etc; just no picture. Then I moved the card over to the blue slot where it seems to be working fine (with picture). What I don't understand is why it works in one slot and not the other. Arn't both slots basically the same and don't both support x16? Anyone?


Actually, the black slot is only a x4 slot. And as far as I know it shares resources with the USB 3.0 controller.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> Looks like I never got added
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2122423


I don't know how to get CPU-Z to recognize that I also have HD3000 graphics on my 2500k processor. I see it recognizes yours. I even updated from 1.58 to 1.59 and it still shows HD2000 graphics.

1.58
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2170355

1.59
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2170386


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> I don't know how to get CPU-Z to recognize that I also have HD3000 graphics on my 2500k processor. I see it recognizes yours. I even updated from 1.58 to 1.59 and it still shows HD2000 graphics.
> 1.58
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2170355
> 1.59
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2170386


Do not worry, this is just some kind of bug.. You have HD3000...

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1651621

http://www.overclock.net/t/1028858/2500k-integrated-graphics-question


----------



## turrican9

What... I just updated my ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0 bios from Beta 2001 (No longe shows as Beta on ASUS Hompage) to Official 2103 bios and now my 4x4GB of Corsair Vengeance 1600 9-9-9-24 RAM will only run at 1333 even if I select 1600 in the bios... What! They ran perfectly fine at 1600 9-9-9-24 with the 2001 (beta?) bios.

Hmm...

Edit: Flashed back to the 2001 bios, now everything is back to normal again. RAM is running at 1600. Luckily it was possible to flash back again.

Just goes to show that If it ain't broken, do not attempt to fix it.


----------



## dartuil

which one should i get :
http://www.materiel.net/alimentation-pour-pc/be-quiet-pure-power-l8-730w-72362.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341052


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> which one should i get :
> http://www.materiel.net/alimentation-pour-pc/be-quiet-pure-power-l8-730w-72362.html
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341052


Personally I only go for Corsair. Any of those is probably fine, but I would have to say Corsair one...


----------



## munaim1

Welcome back T, long time no chat!!! I see that you're back to posting lol I came back a few weeks ago after a 3/4 week 'break' still getting use to 'it' and not letting 'it' win









Nice to see you back on the scene!!!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome back T, long time no chat!!! I see that you're back to posting lol I came back a few weeks ago after a 3/4 week 'break' still getting use to 'it' and not letting 'it' win
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to see you back on the scene!!!


Hey, man  Nice to see you too 

I couldn't abandon the people here at the OCN, even if I did not like the new layout when compared to the old vBullentin, so I gave this a shot.. Trying to get used to this interface 

I'm really hoping they will go back to the old vBullentin though. I don't know, but it seems OCN have much less traffic VS the old layout?

Anyway, I will stick here for the sake of the people who are still in here


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Hey, man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to see you too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't abandon the people here at the OCN, even if I did not like the new layout when compared to the old vBullentin, so I gave this a shot.. Trying to get used to this interface
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really hoping they will go back to the old vBullentin though. I don't know, but it seems OCN have much less traffic VS the old layout?
> 
> Anyway, I will stick here for the sake of the people who are still in here


Indeed I felt exactly the same way, however it is nice to see that we can put these little differences aside and do what we do best and that is to help the community


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Truehighroller1....
> Santa was pretty good to me. Got a Corsair H60 water cooler and a Patriot 60Gig SSD. Both are on their way and should be here Friday. So, Saturday I'll put the water cooler in and the SSD, but I'm still debating if I should go with the Rapid Storage Technology or just use the SSD as a boot drive along with a few programs I constantly use. I'd really like to try the IRST and see what it does and if I'd be happy with it. But this will take the better part of the day putting the OS back on and getting all the updates, then put my other stuff back on....you know, it takes a substantial amount of time to do all this. Either way, my processor will be cooler....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All:
> Still trying to figure this one out if anyone knows about the PCIE slots. There's a black and a blue one. I tried my graphics card in the black slot first and it wouldn't even produce a picture. The machine would boot fine, etc; just no picture. Then I moved the card over to the blue slot where it seems to be working fine (with picture). What I don't understand is why it works in one slot and not the other. Arn't both slots basically the same and don't both support x16? Anyone?


I'm glad to here that you were rewarded this year as well







. I definitely love this MB. Kudos to Asus. I figured I was close enough to settled with this system so I took some pics. I didn't snap a pic of the inside though sorry







.

This is a pic of my setup, my 1200 case and my Frankenstein water cooling tower







. I notice that I forgot to plug in a fan on the front of my tower at the bottom







. I will go back and plug it back in snap a picture of the inside later.

The inside is way cleaner now all the hoses are out of it and all the wires to for all the fans for the radiator too for that matter. That's why I decided to take it all out and make a water cooling tower to hold everything. A hell, of alot neater now and, I have an end table now too







.



Inside, the water cooling tower. I went out and bought another radiator and another pump. My temps dropped 16C and opened some head room for a higher overclock. I ran out of anti kink on the last pump hose







.



Here is a pic of the masters spot







.



Here is what I'm settling on for my overclock at this point.



I seen that your question about the issue you were having was answered, that's a 4x mate.

Oh yeah and in that pic, that's me holding my new blanky that my wife's grandma gave to me on Christmas







. My wife thought it was funny to put it on our desktop.


----------



## dartuil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> which one should i get :
> http://www.materiel.net/alimentation-pour-pc/be-quiet-pure-power-l8-730w-72362.html
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341052


so i'll get the corsair but in model modular








tx 650m


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> which one should i get :
> http://www.materiel.net/alimentation-pour-pc/be-quiet-pure-power-l8-730w-72362.html
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341052


I think the ZT is the better one out of those three, however why are you going for a 650w+ unit for a single card? A quality 400w unit (Antec 430D for example) will run your rig just fine or a 500-550 for Crossfire. You could get a much better deal for a lower wattage PSU that'll work absolutely fine for your rig, however it's your money so it's up to you









ZT - Channel well

Be Quiet - HEC/Compucase

Corsair - SeaSonic

IIRC the modular TX650V2m is Channel well OEM.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> so i'll get the corsair but in model modular
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tx 650m


Good choice. I have their HX850W. It uses a 950 or 1000W insides, I can't remember any more been awhile. I found it out through some power supply review sites I found. That's why I bought this one so I would be future proof no matter how many video cards I get. I had a silverstone 750 before this one.


----------



## dboythagr8

Well...this thread is my last chance.

I've had an P8P67 Pro motherboard since April. All was well until the beginning of December. At that time I decided to get a Corsair 500R case, leaving behind my Silverstone FT02. When I put the motherboard in the case this problem started. The power button on the case will not turn on the computer. I have to flip the switch on my Corsair AX850 PSU to off. Once it's off the power button LED will quickly flash. Then I flip the switch back on, press power and the machine comes on. Every time it does this I get to the screen saying "Press F1 to recover BIOS". I do that, save settings, and continue to Windows log in screen.

Once the machine is on it is fine. It will stay on until I turn it off. Once it's shutdown though and after a span of approximately 3 minutes the machine is computer is unresponsive to the power button on my case. Anytime I press power within 3 minutes of a previous shutdown the machine will come on as usual.

During this journey I have purchased a new AX850 PSU. Same problem. I am on my 2nd Corsair 500R. Same problem. So this tells me that something is going on with the motherboard and not those two items. What am I to do here? Is the BIOS not retaining settings or something after 3 minutes thus not causing the machine to launch from a cold boot? I also upgraded the BIOS to the latest version.

I would really appreciate some help on this. I am about out of options and don't know what's going on. A RMA is the last action I want to take. It's just very frustrating sitting here with thousands of dollars worth of computer equipment that will not work properly.


----------



## kdrxone

Hey guys, going to try and OC 2500k these days to 4.5 ghz or so. Is going Manual my best bet with this motherboard?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Well...this thread is my last chance.
> I've had an P8P67 Pro motherboard since April. All was well until the beginning of December. At that time I decided to get a Corsair 500R case, leaving behind my Silverstone FT02. When I put the motherboard in the case this problem started. The power button on the case will not turn on the computer. I have to flip the switch on my Corsair AX850 PSU to off. Once it's off the power button LED will quickly flash. Then I flip the switch back on, press power and the machine comes on. Every time it does this I get to the screen saying "Press F1 to recover BIOS". I do that, save settings, and continue to Windows log in screen.
> Once the machine is on it is fine. It will stay on until I turn it off. Once it's shutdown though and after a span of approximately 3 minutes the machine is computer is unresponsive to the power button on my case. Anytime I press power within 3 minutes of a previous shutdown the machine will come on as usual.
> During this journey I have purchased a new AX850 PSU. Same problem. I am on my 2nd Corsair 500R. Same problem. So this tells me that something is going on with the motherboard and not those two items. What am I to do here? Is the BIOS not retaining settings or something after 3 minutes thus not causing the machine to launch from a cold boot? I also upgraded the BIOS to the latest version.
> I would really appreciate some help on this. I am about out of options and don't know what's going on. A RMA is the last action I want to take. It's just very frustrating sitting here with thousands of dollars worth of computer equipment that will not work properly.


Have you tried disconnecting the powerswitch cable from the motherboard and just try to start by shorting the two powerswitch pins? You can use a screwdriver or any metal piece to make this shorting. Just short the pins for one second and remove the metal piece you use. See if there are any difference between this VS using powerswitch from the 500R.

If this does not help, have you tried to change the cmos battery? You should also try using only two RAM sticks..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdrxone*
> 
> Hey guys, going to try and OC 2500k these days to 4.5 ghz or so. Is going Manual my best bet with this motherboard?


Read in the second post of this thread. You'll find pretty much all you need to know there.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Well...this thread is my last chance.
> 
> I've had an P8P67 Pro motherboard since April. All was well until the beginning of December. At that time I decided to get a Corsair 500R case, leaving behind my Silverstone FT02. When I put the motherboard in the case this problem started. The power button on the case will not turn on the computer. I have to flip the switch on my Corsair AX850 PSU to off. Once it's off the power button LED will quickly flash. Then I flip the switch back on, press power and the machine comes on. Every time it does this I get to the screen saying "Press F1 to recover BIOS". I do that, save settings, and continue to Windows log in screen.
> 
> Once the machine is on it is fine. It will stay on until I turn it off. Once it's shutdown though and after a span of approximately 3 minutes the machine is computer is unresponsive to the power button on my case. Anytime I press power within 3 minutes of a previous shutdown the machine will come on as usual.
> 
> During this journey I have purchased a new AX850 PSU. Same problem. I am on my 2nd Corsair 500R. Same problem. So this tells me that something is going on with the motherboard and not those two items. What am I to do here? Is the BIOS not retaining settings or something after 3 minutes thus not causing the machine to launch from a cold boot? I also upgraded the BIOS to the latest version.
> 
> I would really appreciate some help on this. I am about out of options and don't know what's going on. A RMA is the last action I want to take. It's just very frustrating sitting here with thousands of dollars worth of computer equipment that will not work properly.


So you've tried two PSUs two cases with the obvious plug and unplug of power, mount and unmount of mobo and you have the 8 pin CPU power attached right? Are you using the mobo stand off for your jumper connections and are you positive you have reset and pwr jumpers in the right place (see manual)?
try flipping the case pwr jumper 180 degrees if that doesn't work try removing mobo from case and place on your work bench as per usual take all precautions but set system up completely on your bench and see if all functions well on the out of the case. This sounds like a dead short to me possibly a stand off in the wrong place shorting out the mobo or a rear i/o shield not properly aligned. If using the on board on/off switch while on the bench it still doesn't work like it should I would RMA the motherboard.


----------



## dartuil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> I think the ZT is the better one out of those three, however why are you going for a 650w+ unit for a single card? A quality 400w unit (Antec 430D for example) will run your rig just fine or a 500-550 for Crossfire. You could get a much better deal for a lower wattage PSU that'll work absolutely fine for your rig, however it's your money so it's up to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZT - Channel well
> Be Quiet - HEC/Compucase
> Corsair - SeaSonic
> IIRC the modular TX650V2m is Channel well OEM.


yes but as i read the better are the corsair with channel well components
you wrong the OCZ have great wall conponents








thanks you allow me to know who is manufacturer


----------



## Mal De Ojo

Hi everybody,
I'm sorry if my post doesn't belong to this thread, but I'm probably in the right spot anyway.
I have some questions concerning the *Asus p8z68-v pro gen 3*.
Since I was an *Asus p8z68-v*







and I'll get this new model g3 as replacement because of all sort of issues (no post, no bios led, vga red blink among other failures), I'm wondering:

*1*. After some BIOS updating I was unable to get working the turbo feature functionality on my old mothercard (again8z68-v) which just disappear of the ASSus software interface. Is it working fine on this motherboard? I'm not an overclocker but sometimes I like to taste some improvements, especially while gaming.

*2.* I've noticed that I'll get two extra SATA 6 internal ports controlled by Marvell. I wanna do a clean installation of Win7 so I've bought my first SSD. Should I hook my SSD to these ports or to the Intel ones? I've even downloaded the manual already and it doesn't seem clear to me in this point. What I suppose to understand it's the fact that the motherboard support SATA 6GB INTEL so the Marvell are just additional, as if I want to install an extra SATA PCI on my mobo. Is that right?

*3*. A reason to purchase the z68 model was that wonderful Lucid functionality which just worked in the mind of some Asus Add department, not mine. I tried hard to get going either the software (LucidVirtu itself or some games and so on) or the hardware but it felt as the BIOS never got the right instructions (of course I change the BIOS settings, if you wonder). I'm running SLI so I have to conclude that LucidVirtu works but not under SLI configurations whatsover. You've got to choice wisely before purchasing a second graphic card. Asus, of course, will never warning about this fact. My question: how will I get the Lucid Virtu working on SLI on the Asus p8z68-V pro gen? Still impossible?

Thank you!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> I think the ZT is the better one out of those three, however why are you going for a 650w+ unit for a single card? A quality 400w unit (Antec 430D for example) will run your rig just fine or a 500-550 for Crossfire. You could get a much better deal for a lower wattage PSU that'll work absolutely fine for your rig, however it's your money so it's up to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZT - Channel well
> Be Quiet - HEC/Compucase
> Corsair - SeaSonic
> IIRC the modular TX650V2m is Channel well OEM.
> 
> 
> 
> yes but as i read the better are the corsair with channel well components
> you wrong the OCZ have great wall conponents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks you allow me to know who is manufacturer
Click to expand...

Apologies yeah, OCZ is great wall, I read up on it a few days ago and I forgot already


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Have you tried disconnecting the powerswitch cable from the motherboard and just try to start by shorting the two powerswitch pins? You can use a screwdriver or any metal piece to make this shorting. Just short the pins for one second and remove the metal piece you use. See if there are any difference between this VS using powerswitch from the 500R.
> 
> If this does not help, have you tried to change the cmos battery? You should also try using only two RAM sticks..


No I have not tried shorting the pins. Guess I'll try 2 sticks of RAM as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> So you've tried two PSUs two cases with the obvious plug and unplug of power, mount and unmount of mobo and you have the 8 pin CPU power attached right? Are you using the mobo stand off for your jumper connections and are you positive you have reset and pwr jumpers in the right place (see manual)?
> try flipping the case pwr jumper 180 degrees if that doesn't work try removing mobo from case and place on your work bench as per usual take all precautions but set system up completely on your bench and see if all functions well on the out of the case. This sounds like a dead short to me possibly a stand off in the wrong place shorting out the mobo or a rear i/o shield not properly aligned. If using the on board on/off switch while on the bench it still doesn't work like it should I would RMA the motherboard.


Yes I have the 8-pin power connected. The machine will come on, I just have to flip the switch on the PSU from off/on. When it's off the light on the power button will flash quickly. That's my clue that I've picked up that it will come on once the switch is flipped back on, and sure enough it does. It's like it gets power or a charge of some kind once I flip the PSU off (how else would the light flash quickly on the power button?) which lets it come on as usual when the switch is flipped back to on on my PSU. It also asks me to press F1 when it does come back on to go into the BIOS and recover settings or whatever. Every time.

I also don't have a work bench :/


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *splitpea*
> 
> I just setup a 60gb SATA III SSD with IRST in my HTPC and am really surprised at how good it is. This is with a P8Z68-M Pro.
> I have a desktop (P8Z68-V Pro) with two 120gb SSD in Raid 0 and I could swear the HTPC boots almost as fast as the desktop. I also play Skyrim on the HTPC and after running the game a few times it seems to have copied itself to the SSD cache, so that starts up super quick.
> I say try the IRST first. It's less hassle than copying files back & forth between a HDD and SSD manually.


Thanks for the encouragement. I think I'm going to try the IRST. From all the different posts I've read (here and elsewhere) it seems to work well. I've got a 60gig SSD coming and I'll pair it with a 800gig seagate I have. I can then attach my other hard drives and use them for storage of files I don't use but once in a great while (like a terabyte of movie files...lol...).


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Actually, the black slot is only a x4 slot. And as far as I know it shares resources with the USB 3.0 controller.


Thanks, that's what I thought. So how does one get the 16x blue slot to work with a graphics card? This is really bugging me that it works in one slot but not the other. I want to upgrade my graphics card but if it won't run in the higher 16x slot, why waste the $$? Shouldn't both slots work with any graphics card?

Also, thanks for the signature code. I feel so official now...lol...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I also don't have a work bench :/


You can set it up sitting on a cardboard box or cardboard sheet on a table, just basic isolation. People do this. Not necessarily a proper "test bench". It's just to test whether lack of isolation is the prob.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Thanks, that's what I thought. So how does one get the 16x blue slot to work with a graphics card? This is really bugging me that it works in one slot but not the other. I want to upgrade my graphics card but if it won't run in the higher 16x slot, why waste the $$? Shouldn't both slots work with any graphics card?
> Also, thanks for the signature code. I feel so official now...lol...


You say it does not work in the upper blue x16 slot? If so, you have a faulty motherboard or graphics card. You have a low-end LE board, but still the upper blue slot should be x16 and work as normal..


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> What... I just updated my ASUS P8P67 PRO 3.0 bios from Beta 2001 (No longe shows as Beta on ASUS Hompage) to Official 2103 bios and now my 4x4GB of Corsair Vengeance 1600 9-9-9-24 RAM will only run at 1333 even if I select 1600 in the bios... What! They ran perfectly fine at 1600 9-9-9-24 with the 2001 (beta?) bios.
> 
> Hmm...
> 
> Edit: Flashed back to the 2001 bios, now everything is back to normal again. RAM is running at 1600. Luckily it was possible to flash back again.
> 
> Just goes to show that If it ain't broken, do not attempt to fix it.


You just hit on another question I had....Mine is doing the same thing, although I never did get it to run at the 1600 (except turbo mode). I even changed it in the bios and it refuses to run at 1600, only 1333. But, if I put the bios in turbo mode it will run at 1600. I have the newest bios firmware too. I'm also using the Corsair Vengeance, only difference is 4x2 (8gigs total). So is this just a feature of the RAM itself (XMP) that it will run at 1600 in turbo and run in 1333 when in standard running mode?


----------



## turrican9

I don't know. It should run at 1600 when you select 1600. As I said, I flashed back to 2001 bios, and it was fine again.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> You say it does not work in the upper blue x16 slot? If so, you have a faulty motherboard or graphics card. You have a low-end LE board, but still the upper blue slot should be x16 and work as normal..


Here's something else I just thought of as to why it's not working in the blue 16x slot. It's a BFG 9800GT, but one that was made for low voltage and does not have the usual power connector that goes to it on the top of the card. Maybe that is making the difference. I believe I have another pcie graphics card kicking around here somewhere and will dig it up this weekend when I'm putting my xmas toys in the new build. I want to see if this is the case or not. Funny that the computer would boot, but nothing would show on the screen. I'm thinking the card and not the mobo as everything on the mobo has been 100% so far. Thanks for your thoughts on this....


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> You can set it up sitting on a cardboard box or cardboard sheet on a table, just basic isolation. People do this. Not necessarily a proper "test bench". It's just to test whether lack of isolation is the prob.


Ok thanks.

Another question about my situation. Does the fact that it makes me go into BIOS everytime I finally get my machine up ("Press F1 to something somethign...") via the methods in my previous posts indicate a problem with the CMOS battery? My settings are always back to normal whenever I go into the BIOS.

And if it is bad would that have anything to do with the cold boot problems I am having?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

WoW! You're going to town on that build. (I love the nightstand with the tower and fans...) Goes to show the mind will always find away to fix things. I've always wanted to play with a big water tower and cool everything that way, but for now I think I'll like the H60 CPU water cooler. I've read good things about it. I almost got the bigger unit (difference is one radiator is a bit thicker than the other and two fans vs one) but decided that this one will suffice for what I'm running. I'm sure it'll bring my CPU temps down too. I see yours is pretty darn good, running about 60c or a bit above (and I'm guessing that's under a big load). I like the Intel test program better than prime also. Seems the Intel drives the CPU a bit harder.

The IRST will be a real learning experience. I see the drive I bought needs to be firmware updated before I do anything. So I'll just plug it in under the AHCI first, format it, then update the firmware. Then I'll shut it all down and pull all the HD's off and set the SSD first and pair it with the 800 gig Seagate and set it to raid and put Windows 7 on it, then go from there. I am guessing this is the correct sequence from all I've read. We'll see if I have any major problems or not.

Great pix! As soon as I get the water cooling in and the drives setup I'll snap some pix also and post them. I love seeing the pix of others setups, maybe mine will look semi-good also....Right now my 'master station' is only in semi-dis-ray. (Meaning not so messy as it usually is...lol..... )


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Ok thanks.
> Another question about my situation. Does the fact that it makes me go into BIOS everytime I finally get my machine up ("Press F1 to something somethign...") via the methods in my previous posts indicate a problem with the CMOS battery? My settings are always back to normal whenever I go into the BIOS.
> And if it is bad would that have anything to do with the cold boot problems I am having?


If your BIOS settings are always going back to the defaults it sounds as though something is resetting the bios, which could be a problem with the battery not holding the last set of BIOS settings you put in, or something else is resetting them to the defaults.


----------



## Dwhite56

Are we still adding people? Look at my build at the bottom


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> If your BIOS settings are always going back to the defaults it sounds as though something is resetting the bios, which could be a problem with the battery not holding the last set of BIOS settings you put in, or something else is resetting them to the defaults.


Yeah, I think I mentioned that earlier... Anyway.. I'm getting drunk now.. Cheers.. Almost new year and stuff


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwhite56*
> 
> Are we still adding people? Look at my build at the bottom


Nothing shows up in your sig.. ?


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> If your BIOS settings are always going back to the defaults it sounds as though something is resetting the bios, which could be a problem with the battery not holding the last set of BIOS settings you put in, or something else is resetting them to the defaults.


Right but I guess what I'm asking is the cold boot issues that I am having, is that independent of the CMOS? In other words CMOS shouldn't have an impact on whether my machine boots or not when I press the power button?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> WoW! You're going to town on that build. (I love the nightstand with the tower and fans...) Goes to show the mind will always find away to fix things. I've always wanted to play with a big water tower and cool everything that way, but for now I think I'll like the H60 CPU water cooler. I've read good things about it. I almost got the bigger unit (difference is one radiator is a bit thicker than the other and two fans vs one) but decided that this one will suffice for what I'm running. I'm sure it'll bring my CPU temps down too. I see yours is pretty darn good, running about 60c or a bit above (and I'm guessing that's under a big load). I like the Intel test program better than prime also. Seems the Intel drives the CPU a bit harder.
> The IRST will be a real learning experience. I see the drive I bought needs to be firmware updated before I do anything. So I'll just plug it in under the AHCI first, format it, then update the firmware. Then I'll shut it all down and pull all the HD's off and set the SSD first and pair it with the 800 gig Seagate and set it to raid and put Windows 7 on it, then go from there. I am guessing this is the correct sequence from all I've read. We'll see if I have any major problems or not.
> Great pix! As soon as I get the water cooling in and the drives setup I'll snap some pix also and post them. I love seeing the pix of others setups, maybe mine will look semi-good also....Right now my 'master station' is only in semi-dis-ray. (Meaning not so messy as it usually is...lol..... )


I seen the tower that Zalman makes and figured why can't I do that. It makes everything allot cleaner on the inside with just two hoses in the case. The T.V. stand was just sitting in here not being used and it was kind of a cheapo but usable none the less. I hung our T.V. above our fireplace so we weren't using it at all any more. I tore it all apart and put the corner of it together like what you see there and just used it.

I'm sure you will be happy as well.


----------



## csm725

I am stuck on VGA LED when trying to boot, no signal, etc etc.
Any ideas?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I am stuck on VGA LED when trying to boot, no signal, etc etc.
> Any ideas?


Do you have another graphics card to try out?


----------



## csm725

I do but it would need to be pulled from another computer. Any idea what else I can do?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I do but it would need to be pulled from another computer. Any idea what else I can do?


What mobo? I see that P8P67 PRO is RMA (I Know it does not have diagnostic LED). Anyway, you said VGA-LED error. You have to try that other graphics card first.


----------



## csm725

Oh I got the new mobo 2 hours ago.


----------



## csm725

I have isolated the issue to the GPU. Thanks all.


----------



## Hengy

Hi Guys,

I very recently bought a Asus P8Z68 Deluxe (not GEN3) motherboard and Intel i5-2500K, upgrading from a Asus P5Q Deluxe. I'm really excited to get this rig up and running, and back into a usable form for gaming and media editing, and, of course, some overclocking!

My last rig (P5Q Deluxe and Intel Q9550) was overclocked to ~3.2GHz. That was pretty easy using the P5Q - just up the FSB. By no means was it a fast overclock, but it was simple - the voltage was on auto, and I could still use the EPU to save power.

I am looking to do something similar with my 2500k and p8z68 deluxe, but this board, and it's dizzying array of options, it nothing like my old p5q! I have searched around the internet and read what i could on how to overclock, and what the different options mean and do, but I still don't feel comfortable playing around with them.

My main goal is to overclock to a modest 3.8GHz range (with a higher turbo), but I don't want to fiddle around with static voltages - I would like to keep the power saving features active, mainly the EPU. All of the guides to overclocking with this combo use a non-auto voltage for the CPU. I would like to just up the multiplier, and compensate with a voltage offset. I'm just not comfortable doing this on my own yet.

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated! (and sorry for the long intro)

Thanks, Hengy


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hengy*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> I very recently bought a Asus P8Z68 Deluxe (not GEN3) motherboard and Intel i5-2500K, upgrading from a Asus P5Q Deluxe. I'm really excited to get this rig up and running, and back into a usable form for gaming and media editing, and, of course, some overclocking!
> My last rig (P5Q Deluxe and Intel Q9550) was overclocked to ~3.2GHz. That was pretty easy using the P5Q - just up the FSB. By no means was it a fast overclock, but it was simple - the voltage was on auto, and I could still use the EPU to save power.
> I am looking to do something similar with my 2500k and p8z68 deluxe, but this board, and it's dizzying array of options, it nothing like my old p5q! I have searched around the internet and read what i could on how to overclock, and what the different options mean and do, but I still don't feel comfortable playing around with them.
> My main goal is to overclock to a modest 3.8GHz range (with a higher turbo), but I don't want to fiddle around with static voltages - I would like to keep the power saving features active, mainly the EPU. All of the guides to overclocking with this combo use a non-auto voltage for the CPU. I would like to just up the multiplier, and compensate with a voltage offset. I'm just not comfortable doing this on my own yet.
> Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated! (and sorry for the long intro)
> Thanks, Hengy


Then you should read the second post of this thread  When you have done that, you are welcome to ask questions  Sandy is very simple to overclock VS the old 775


----------



## dartuil

i would like my 2300 touch 4ghz








but no you have to pay 40$ more for a 2500k







, it is more agressive than my old x6 1075t oc at 3.5ghz even at 2.8ghz








ill try the false oc at 3.5ghz


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Do not worry, this is just some kind of bug.. You have HD3000...
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1651621
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1028858/2500k-integrated-graphics-question


Thanks. Yeah, I know I have it. But am curious why CPU-Z picks up HD3000 on the i5-2600k but not on the i5-2500k.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Nothing shows up in your sig.. ?


Well, another one for Huddler, because I'm thinking Dwhite56 may not have worked out its pesky ways yet. It does show *at the bottom of his profile*

May not be obvious but - http://www.overclock.net/t/1188627/used-rigbuilder-to-make-my-rig-now-how-to-add-into-signature

I better have another coffee.


----------



## ecpeters

How do I join ?? Just got the P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 last month


----------



## dartuil

update your rip in profile


----------



## turrican9

*ecpeters* a P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 owner, and *Dwhite56*, a P8Z68-V PRO owner added to the Club! Welcome!

For Signature, copy and paste the code below:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>[/URL]*


----------



## Dwhite56

, I would post pictures, but I'm in the mountains with my laptop, so I will post them when I get back.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwhite56*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I would post pictures, but I'm in the mountains with my laptop, so I will post them when I get back.


And if you get the chance, put your rig in your sig...
Quote:


> May not be obvious but - http://www.overclock.net/t/1188627/used-rigbuilder-to-make-my-rig-now-how-to-add-into-signature


----------



## EmeraldICE

Does disabling C3 and C6 states mean I no longer get throttling while in offset mode?
I'm getting an 0x124 BSOD and read a guide that said turning C3 and C6 states off might help, but now I'm not getting throttling.









Edit - Nevermind. C1E was on auto. Just set it to enabled and now throttling is working again.

The guide also stated that it might be because of VCCIO voltage... any idea of a good voltage I should test? No clue what ranges are safe in that area.. never messed with it before.


----------



## nugget toes

Can you add me?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nugget toes*
> 
> Can you add me?


You're in! Welcome!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EmeraldICE*
> 
> Does disabling C3 and C6 states mean I no longer get throttling while in offset mode?
> I'm getting an 0x124 BSOD and read a guide that said turning C3 and C6 states off might help, but now I'm not getting throttling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - Nevermind. C1E was on auto. Just set it to enabled and now throttling is working again.
> The guide also stated that it might be because of VCCIO voltage... any idea of a good voltage I should test? No clue what ranges are safe in that area.. never messed with it before.


There is a guide in the second post of this thread. Very useful.


----------



## Danger72

Just an update, not that anyone really cares









RMA'd board is being replaced at no cost to me by NCIX and I should have a new one on Tuesday... Actually I am hoping it will be here tomorrow.

Rig will then be:
ASUS P8Z68-V Pro GEN3
i7 2600K
G.SKILL F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR Sniper SE 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1866 CL9-10-9-28 1.5V
Fractal Design R3 Black Case
x6 Fractal Design Silent Series 120MM Ultra Quiet Cooling Fan
BFG 850W PSU... no link because I can no longer find in on NCIX. I'm looking to replace it anyway with a Corsair Professional Series Gold AX650 650W after I get the H80

Will probably pick up the Corsair H80 next paycheque

Went to add the H80 to my wishlist and saw they were on sale... was going to try and do a pricematch but the H80 wasn't listed on Newegg.ca and the H70 was the same price so I just had to order one now


----------



## kdrxone

Count me in


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdrxone*
> 
> Count me in


Added!

*Signature, copy and paste code below*

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>[/URL]*


----------



## chillidog

right had some time to do some messing around.i hit 4.7,4.8,4.9 all prime stable and intell burn tested
then i pick up the courage to do 5.0 on intel burn all passed on 1.446 and i am so far 1 hr prime stable @ 1.45v.
do any one know the safe voltage MAX is

any way a pretty pic to look at


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> right had some time to do some messing around.i hit 4.7,4.8,4.9 all prime stable and intell burn tested
> then i pick up the courage to do 5.0 on intel burn all passed on 1.446 and i am so far 1 hr prime stable @ 1.45v.
> do any one know the safe voltage MAX is
> any way a pretty pic to look at


Nice number









With regards to max Vcore for Sandy, no one really knows. However, I believe Juan Jose from Asus said that about 1.4250v is a nice max for 24/7. I also believe Intel stated 1.52v for absolute max. Anyway, I've not heard of any documented proof of people destroying their Sandy because of too high Vcore.

I should think the Vcore you have would be fine, as long as you can keep your temps good for normal use.


----------



## acowboy

Almost done...
Going to get a Mushkin ssd
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226246
But do need to ask some advice on a CPU cooler...was looking at the Corsair H100..but any advice on another would be appreciated.
I know I don't need 16g of ram, but I had them so why not see if all the slots work..they do,very nice board.
Add me also..please


----------



## Mtemtko

This will do I hope


----------



## turrican9

*Mtemtko* and *acowboy* added to the Club! Welcome!

For Signature, Copy And Paste:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club]>>The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club>>[/URL]*

*acowboy:* *If you want max cooling two other options is Noctua D-14 or Thermalright Silver Arrow. Those are great Air-coolers, and probably as good as the Corsair H100.*

*If you want a cheaper cooler, that can handle a normal overclock, the Cooler Master 212+ is a bang for buck cooler. It will handle up to about 1.4v Vcore when Prime95 load.*


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Yeah, I think I mentioned that earlier... Anyway.. I'm getting drunk now.. Cheers.. Almost new year and stuff


A lowly low end Z68 mobo? I'd put the LE in the middle, but that's me. Just fun-ing with ya. And yes, I think you did mention that (above quote). I'm with you, let's just party, it's getting close to the new year and I'm getting too old to waste any life I have left. (I sound like I have one foot in the grave....lol...)


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I seen the tower that Zalman makes and figured why can't I do that. It makes everything allot cleaner on the inside with just two hoses in the case. The T.V. stand was just sitting in here not being used and it was kind of a cheapo but usable none the less. I hung our T.V. above our fireplace so we weren't using it at all any more. I tore it all apart and put the corner of it together like what you see there and just used it.
> I'm sure you will be happy as well.


Yea, very little makes me happy now a days. Just getting something to work the way it's supposed to makes me smile. Anyways, I've looked at the Zalman design also and thought that wouldn't be too hard to recreate and here you've done it. If I wasn't involved with what seems to be a million other things I'd have the time to make a project like that. So, I'll stick with the store bought stuff for now. I'll let you know how I make out with the new toys and will get some pix taken after done. Meanwhile, have a safe New Year!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danger72*
> 
> Just an update, not that anyone really cares
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RMA'd board is being replaced at no cost to me by NCIX and I should have a new one on Tuesday... Actually I am hoping it will be here tomorrow.
> Rig will then be:
> ASUS P8Z68-V Pro GEN3
> i7 2600K
> G.SKILL F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR Sniper SE 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1866 CL9-10-9-28 1.5V
> Fractal Design R3 Black Case
> x6 Fractal Design Silent Series 120MM Ultra Quiet Cooling Fan
> BFG 850W PSU... no link because I can no longer find in on NCIX. I'm looking to replace it anyway with a Corsair Professional Series Gold AX650 650W after I get the H80
> Will probably pick up the Corsair H80 next paycheque
> Went to add the H80 to my wishlist and saw they were on sale... was going to try and do a pricematch but the H80 wasn't listed on Newegg.ca and the H70 was the same price so I just had to order one now


Just so you know, we do care. I (for one) know what it's like to be waiting for parts or money to buy the parts. BTW, that's a good price on the H80 that NCIX has. I was going to go that route but felt I didn't have enough room in my case for the dual fans (I should have just put one fan on the outside of that case) so I opted for the H60. One feature I did like on Corsairs higher versions of their water coolers was the fact you could plug them into a interface they have and run some software showing all the graphics, stats, etc....until I saw the price of the interface and said, I really don't need this...lol...

Hang in there, everything will show up and work great for you.


----------



## dartuil

where do you buy your components menh?


----------



## Danger72

Quote:


> BTW, that's a good price on the H80 that NCIX has. I was going to go that route but felt I didn't have enough room in my case for the dual fans (I should have just put one fan on the outside of that case) so I opted for the H60.


I thought about both the H60 & H100 but I figured I would go in the middle of the road. I currently have this on my AMD board: *Tuniq Tower*, actually I have an older model but it's the same size. I figure if I can put that in my case, the H80 should be no problem. The difference will really be in getting that H80 in and out of the case as the Tuniq Tower is a real freaking pain in the ass getting in on and off the CPU if you need to. This is one of those coolers you put on the board BEFORE you put the board in your case...


----------



## turrican9

Cheers people


----------



## chillidog

am using an h70 100% recommend.
am on now 4.9 and the temps min is 63 and max is 70 across four cores.
on 5.0 the temps creap up @ min 65 to max 77 across four cores.so the h70 doe's the job.but the d14 is the best so people say


----------



## turrican9

People need alot of time to "consume" the new OCN. They lost alot of members after the change. I myself are coping with it step by step. I'm getting drunk and awaiting the new year.

Point is that in all honesty, OCN have themselves to thank, their arrogant behaviour (Not listening to all the loyal members) has made alot of people angry. But we'll see... I will stay here only because of the community and members. And because I was "asked" to make a "comeback".

Anyway, Strength And Honor for 2012 people! Cheers!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> People need alot of time to "consume" the new OCN. They lost alot of members after the change. I myself are coping with it step by step. I'm getting drunk and awaiting the new year.
> 
> Point is that in all honesty, OCN have themselves to thank, their arrogant behaviour (Not listening to all the loyal members) has made alot of people angry. But we'll see... I will stay here only because of the community and members. And because I was "asked" to make a "comeback".
> 
> Anyway, Strength And Honor for 2012 people! Cheers!


Right back at you. Damned fine OP. You do good.


----------



## turrican9

*alancsalt*, thanks... But the greatest members of the old OCN have still not shown up... The "Key" members who made it all what it was... I can only hope they show up...


----------



## csm725

Turrican, trust me, it's not just you that is only here for the community now.


----------



## shad0wfax

I don't even know why things changed. I didn't know that OCN existed until after the change to this site was made. I can say that I've been satisfied with the site overall. There are only a few things I'd like to see change and I know that they won't be changed already.


----------



## TahoeDust

This may have been talked about already, but has anyone had issues with saving OC profiles and then reloading them only to see some values have changes? Twice I have loaded a saved profile in the bios after BSOD and have seen the loaded value for vcore offset dangerously high. Like .8xx when it was saved at .07x. The value it loaded is not even in the range accepted in the bios. One time I caught it before save/reset, the other time I was greated with a vcore voltage warning and CPU temp warning before windows even loaded.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> This may have been talked about already, but has anyone had issues with saving OC profiles and then reloading them only to see some values have changes? Twice I have loaded a saved profile in the bios after BSOD and have seen the loaded value for vcore offset dangerously high. Like .8xx when it was saved at .07x. The value it loaded is not even in the range accepted in the bios. One time I caught it before save/reset, the other time I was greated with a vcore voltage warning and CPU temp warning before windows even loaded.


Not sure but this bug may be your problem I had it happen to me before 0902 bios came out so it may be beneficial to update your bios. Maybe someone with your board can chime in however see quote below. [Link] this was also linked in the OP here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> When swapping between profiles the offset voltage changes to .975
> 
> So 1.24v+.975v=2.215v
> 
> Happened to catch it last night before I saved and exited my 5ghz +.105 offset, the offset was actually at +.975v.
> Had I not checked...
> 
> So be careful and always double check the offset when switching saved profiles.


----------



## TahoeDust

That is a seriously dangerous bug. I wonder what kind of damage could have been done to my chip in that 20 seconds between startup and when I got the voltage set right, saved, and restarted.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> This may have been talked about already, but has anyone had issues with saving OC profiles and then reloading them only to see some values have changes? Twice I have loaded a saved profile in the bios after BSOD and have seen the loaded value for vcore offset dangerously high. Like .8xx when it was saved at .07x. The value it loaded is not even in the range accepted in the bios. One time I caught it before save/reset, the other time I was greated with a vcore voltage warning and CPU temp warning before windows even loaded.


Yeah I can re-produce this problem at will. It doesn't happen for me if I just change profile to another (but I always check).

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038199107#post1038199107


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Yeah I can re-produce this problem at will. It doesn't happen for me if I just change profile to another (but I always check).
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038199107#post1038199107


Also mentioned on first page of this thread. http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club#post_13464107


----------



## chillidog

ever throught of setting your own forum/web site up?there is quite a few free forum set ups and am sure you would get a load of us to follow you.
i know that some forum/web site are free but as you grow with members am sure people would chip in through paypal donation's for extra space.

just a throught
happy new year to yous all


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danger72*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, that's a good price on the H80 that NCIX has. I was going to go that route but felt I didn't have enough room in my case for the dual fans (I should have just put one fan on the outside of that case) so I opted for the H60.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about both the H60 & H100 but I figured I would go in the middle of the road. I currently have this on my AMD board: *Tuniq Tower*, actually I have an older model but it's the same size. I figure if I can put that in my case, the H80 should be no problem. The difference will really be in getting that H80 in and out of the case as the Tuniq Tower is a real freaking pain in the ass getting in on and off the CPU if you need to. This is one of those coolers you put on the board BEFORE you put the board in your case...
Click to expand...

I thought a lot about getting the H100 as it would be a perfect fit for my case (a M59-NZXT that has two fan cut outs on the top that would fit it perfectly) then decided I'm not really going to over clock this new build too much so I didn't need all that cooling. Anyway, I just got finished putting in the H60 and a SSD drive. The install is super easy on the H60. I ended up putting it in the back of the case, but turned the fan around so it would draw the air out rather than suck dust into the case. Then I took the fan that was already on the back and put it on the top of the case. Radiator wouldn't fit with the fan on the top, so I managed to move the fan over about an inch and mounted it through the many holes that are there. You can't even tell that I did this as the black screws match up rather nicely. Anyway as said it was easy to install and even though I haven't pushed the rig yet I can tell it's keeping the CPU almost 5C degrees cooler than it was. I want to get the SSD and IRST working before I see just how cool the H60 is over the stock Intel fan. The SSD was harder to figure out so far. I started up the machine and the drive wouldn't show in windows. Device manager, etc; was telling me it was there, but you couldn't see it. So, I did the drive management thing and once through that it showed up. Poor documentation on Patriot's part (a Pyro 60gig SSD). Most folks would never know to use the disk management to initialize the drive and have it show up in windows. That's more or less an experienced computer user knowledge as a regular user would have been pissed not knowing this nor having it in the docs of the drive (BTW, there is no docs with the drive, they just give you a nice sticker for the side of your computer that says, "Go Faster"....I think I'd rather have some sort of install guide than that.) Anyways, it's working 100% and it only took 30 seconds to update to the newest firmware, so all that is done. Now I'll start on making the SSD into a IRST (Intel Rapid Storage Technology) along with a 800 gig HD and we'll see what happens. Seems like a few others have had good luck with the IRST and the results they have been getting will be well worth it. I'll post again when that's finished along with some pix of the build.

So far I have to say the H60 was a good buy and they're on sale right now, just look around. It's a cheap, good way to have water cooling on your CPU without a lot of bother and headaches...

Also...Happy New Year....Going to go join Turrican9 in getting smashed now........


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> People need alot of time to "consume" the new OCN. They lost alot of members after the change. I myself are coping with it step by step. I'm getting drunk and awaiting the new year.
> 
> Point is that in all honesty, OCN have themselves to thank, their arrogant behaviour (Not listening to all the loyal members) has made alot of people angry. But we'll see... I will stay here only because of the community and members. And because I was "asked" to make a "comeback".
> 
> Anyway, Strength And Honor for 2012 people! Cheers!


I wasn't here when they changed formats, but what you said about not listening to their loyal followers is a big mistake on their part. I'm not surprised they lost a lot of good, knowledgeable folks over something like this. Sure they pay the bills on the server, etc; but when you have good people, it pays not to piss them off, as these folks are hard to find and keep coming back.

Oh well...Cheers 2012!!!


----------



## shad0wfax

*Don't forget to return to a stock and NOT overclocked BIOS setting before you flash/upgrade/update your BIOS. Very bad things can happen if you try to update your BIOS while you're still overclocked.*


----------



## TahoeDust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> *Don't forget to return to a stock and NOT overclocked BIOS setting before you flash/upgrade/update your BIOS. Very bad things can happen if you try to update your BIOS while you're still overclocked.*


Uh oh. I did this earlier today. What should I be on the lookout for?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> *Don't forget to return to a stock and NOT overclocked BIOS setting before you flash/upgrade/update your BIOS. Very bad things can happen if you try to update your BIOS while you're still overclocked.*
> 
> 
> 
> Uh oh. I did this earlier today. What should I be on the lookout for?
Click to expand...

If it POSTed after you did it, you're probably OK.

Sometimes you'll brick your BIOS.


----------



## TahoeDust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> If it POSTed after you did it, you're probably OK.
> 
> Sometimes you'll brick your BIOS.


Wow. Thanks for the heads up. I will not be doing that again.


----------



## turrican9

*Happy New Year people!!!*


----------



## Sean Webster

Happy new year!










LOL


----------



## csm725

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sean Webster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy new year!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL


Look who's talking...


----------



## turrican9

*csm725*

Tried the 2103 bios for your P8P67 PRO 3.1? Any feedback? I tried it, and it would not allow my 4x4GB 1600 Corsair Vengeance to run at 1600. They defaulted to 1333 even if I selected 1600 from the bios. So I went back to the 2001 bios (Which according to ASUS homepage is not beta anymore) and everything was okay again (1600 worked as usual).


----------



## csm725

I am using 2103 now (per Sean's instructions, I might add).
My 2x2GB are running at 1600 fine, I should have 4x4 RipX 1600MHz here sometime soon (a bit of an issue with the seller) and will keep you posted.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I am using 2103 now (per Sean's instructions, I might add).
> My 2x2GB are running at 1600 fine, I should have 4x4 RipX 1600MHz here sometime soon (a bit of an issue with the seller) and will keep you posted.


Thanks, but I reflashed the 2103 bios and now everything works. Previous flash it would not change any settings I selected strangely enough..


----------



## csm725

Ah. Cool. Yeah, I use 2103.


----------



## turrican9

BTW, I only run 4.4GHz now, with HT Disabled. Really, these CPU's are so blazing fast I do no longer see any need to push it to it's limit. I used to run it with a TRUE cooler, using 212+'s mounting bracket and fan, and push it to 4.8GHz with HT Enabled. Now I've just installed my 212+ cooler again. Honestly, these CPU's are fast enough even at stock.

I doubt anyone will see any difference from 4GHz to 5GHz. Except for a lot more noise and heat.


----------



## csm725

I am thrilled to see someone who thinks how I think. I run at 4.4GHz, nice and easy, nice and cool.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I am thrilled to see someone who thinks how I think. I run at 4.4GHz, nice and easy, nice and cool.


Another vote for 4.4Ghz....Low volts...low heat....and very fast.....never any problems


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> Another vote for 4.4Ghz....Low volts...low heat....and very fast.....never any problems


God that Corsair 600T SE is so nice







Happy with it?


----------



## ocman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> *Happy New Year people!!!*


*Happy New Year to The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club!!!*

*Cheers,*

*ocman **Official ASUS P5Q PRO Turbo/PRO/Turbo Owners Club***


----------



## munaim1

Happy New Year Everyone


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Happy New Year Everyone


Happy New Year Everyone Indeed! Thank you.


----------



## Astronomer

Add me in too please! I've been reading the forum for the past week. I just built the PC on the 26th. I thought I asked for the Pro board at the store on boxing day, but with the crush I guess neither of us noticed the mistake. No big whoop, it works fine


----------



## Astronomer

A shot of the behemoth:
ASUS P8Z68-V,
Intel i5-2500K
16Gb of Corsair XMS3 Classic low-profile RAM
CoolerMaster V6GT CPU cooler (reason for the low-profile memory)
CoolerMaster HAF X Case
PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 PSU
(CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 1200W is on order. The price was too good to pass up)
2x nVidia GTX 550 TI Video Cards in SLI
1x 1tb Hd; 1x 500Gb Hd (WD 7200 something-or-others)


----------



## Astronomer

One issue that I've had is that 3 times now, the motherboard sensor has suddenly shot up to 60°C. Normally it sits at 26°C. The CPU stays a cool 24°C and nothing else is showing odd behaviours or temperatures. Both Aida64 and AI Suite II report the same temperature. Is this just a glitch in the sensor? Where on the board is the sensor? Could this be a real temperature (I'm thinking unlikely, but...)? My BIOS version is 0902. At the time the temperature shot up the system was either idle or I was simply surfing the web. When gaming, the temperature of the board as reported never even comes remotely close to 60°C. Should I RMA the board? The reseller is also accepting in-store returns until January 6th

Thanks!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astronomer*
> 
> One issue that I've had is that 3 times now, the motherboard sensor has suddenly shot up to 60°C. Normally it sits at 26°C. The CPU stays a cool 24°C and nothing else is showing odd behaviours or temperatures. Both Aida64 and AI Suite II report the same temperature. Is this just a glitch in the sensor? Where on the board is the sensor? Could this be a real temperature (I'm thinking unlikely, but...)? My BIOS version is 0902. At the time the temperature shot up the system was either idle or I was simply surfing the web. When gaming, the temperature of the board as reported never even comes remotely close to 60°C. Should I RMA the board? The reseller is also accepting in-store returns until January 6th
> 
> Thanks!


I use 0902 and Aida64 and have not noticed the glitch you are referring to. It could be a background task so I'd keep a close eye on it if not I'd take advantage of an exchange before it to late the transition should be seamless unhook n hook backup. GL

Happy New Year All!!


----------



## speedlever

Ditto here. I also find that my voltages run lower with C3 and C6 enabled rather than in auto.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I am thrilled to see someone who thinks how I think. I run at 4.4GHz, nice and easy, nice and cool.
> 
> 
> 
> Another vote for 4.4Ghz....Low volts...low heat....and very fast.....never any problems
Click to expand...


----------



## dartuil

hello , can someone explain me what is the test this psu fail in :

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/beQuiet/PurePower_L8_730W/7.html

thanks i dont understand


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astronomer*
> 
> Add me in too please! I've been reading the forum for the past week. I just built the PC on the 26th. I thought I asked for the Pro board at the store on boxing day, but with the crush I guess neither of us noticed the mistake. No big whoop, it works fine


Added! Welcome!


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> hello , can someone explain me what is the test this psu fail in :
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/beQuiet/PurePower_L8_730W/7.html
> 
> thanks i dont understand


They tested the 3.3V tap on the PSU and loaded it at 50% and then spiked the load with a transient load. After the transient load was applied, the voltage output dropped below the acceptable threshold level on the 3.3V tap and therefore the PSU is considered to have poor voltage regulation and "fail" their test.

I have no idea what this has to do with the P8P67/Z68 club, but I answered the question anyways.


----------



## Birdyz

Can I be added to the club?

Just finished my build the other day and I own the P8Z68-V Pro/Gen 3.


----------



## Stianby

would you like to add me? need some other form of evidence?


----------



## Astronomer

Well, this is interesting: AI Suite just alerted me with a pop-up saying the motherboard was at 110°C. I have the sensor recorder on-screen and it's been a flat 24°C, with no huge spike showing. Thoughts?


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astronomer*
> 
> Well, this is interesting: AI Suite just alerted me with a pop-up saying the motherboard was at 110°C. I have the sensor recorder on-screen and it's been a flat 24°C, with no huge spike showing. Thoughts?


Uninstall AI Suite = WIN









Many user's have reported the same error, I would ignore it, just a bug.


----------



## ocman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astronomer*
> 
> Well, this is interesting: AI Suite just alerted me with a pop-up saying the motherboard was at 110°C. I have the sensor recorder on-screen and it's been a flat 24°C, with no huge spike showing. Thoughts?


Same thing... it's simply faulty programs (I've used PC Probe II)... use other programs like *CPUID Hardware Monitor* instead.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Astronomer*
> 
> Well, this is interesting: AI Suite just alerted me with a pop-up saying the motherboard was at 110°C. I have the sensor recorder on-screen and it's been a flat 24°C, with no huge spike showing. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Uninstall AI Suite = WIN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many user's have reported the same error, I would ignore it, just a bug.
Click to expand...

Agree^


----------



## Astronomer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocman*
> 
> Same thing... it's simply faulty programs (I've used PC Probe II)... use other programs like *CPUID Hardware Monitor* instead.
> 
> Agree^


Thanks for the info folks. Good to know. I'm still concerned a bit about the anomalous mobo temperature spikes. Both AI Suite and Aida64 registered spikes to exactly 60°C 3 times now. Still not sure if it's real or just a faulty sensor.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astronomer*
> 
> Well, this is interesting: AI Suite just alerted me with a pop-up saying the motherboard was at 110°C. I have the sensor recorder on-screen and it's been a flat 24°C, with no huge spike showing. Thoughts?


Yea, got to agree with everyone else and say, uninstall AI Suite. Not only the temps, but other parts of the program seems to be buggy. Stick with Core Temp, ADIA64, the ones that have been around for a long time and are proven to work well. If the MB ever hit 60c you'd have a place to cook breakfast in a pinch....







It could be possible that it's a faulty sensor. Don't rule it out. (yet)

Happy New Year to All ~!~


----------



## ocman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astronomer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ocman*
> 
> Same thing... it's simply faulty programs (I've used PC Probe II)... use other programs like *CPUID Hardware Monitor* instead.
> 
> Agree^
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info folks. Good to know. I'm still concerned a bit about the anomalous mobo temperature spikes. Both AI Suite and Aida64 registered spikes to exactly 60°C 3 times now. Still not sure if it's real or just a faulty sensor.
Click to expand...

I never once had a problem using other programs after uninstalling ASUS' programs







I believe same situation goes for others... what do you say? problem from sensor or from program(s)?

Hope these help!!!


----------



## yeahi

add me please have the ASUS P8Z68-V and i love it


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Astronomer*
> 
> Well, this is interesting: AI Suite just alerted me with a pop-up saying the motherboard was at 110°C. I have the sensor recorder on-screen and it's been a flat 24°C, with no huge spike showing. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, got to agree with everyone else and say, uninstall AI Suite. Not only the temps, but other parts of the program seems to be buggy. Stick with Core Temp, ADIA64, the ones that have been around for a long time and are proven to work well. If the MB ever hit 60c you'd have a place to cook breakfast in a pinch....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It could be possible that it's a faulty sensor. Don't rule it out. (yet)
> 
> Happy New Year to All ~!~
Click to expand...

+1 for Asus AI Suite II being buggy and reporting false things. It tried to tell me that my motherboard temperature was -35C at one instant and then +127C the next instant. It was actually 39C the entire time as measured by an IR thermometer and my Open HW Monitor. (Which is everything that HW Monitor is and then better.)

Also, when you uninstall AI Suite, make sure that you sweep your registry thoroughly and also delete the various installation folders that remain behind. The AI Suite leaves pieces of itself all over the place and does not uninstall cleanly.


----------



## Astronomer

Thanks Shad0wfax, good info. I'll uninstall it shortly.

I also think I know where the erroneous 60°C reading on my mobo and your 127°C came from. Check out the screenshot below from CPUID Hardware Monitor Pro. Both those values are the min/max for the CPUTIN. I'm betting that AI Suite II grabbed those values from that sensor (the 127°C was for a bare split second on mine). Now, next questions, what is CPUTIN and what's a normal temperature for it? I'm guessing North or Southbridge? BTW, AIDA64 shows my mobo at 27°C


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astronomer*
> 
> Thanks Shad0wfax, good info. I'll uninstall it shortly.
> 
> I also think I know where the erroneous 60°C reading on my mobo and your 127°C came from. Check out the screenshot below from CPUID Hardware Monitor Pro. Both those values are the min/max for the CPUTIN. I'm betting that AI Suite II grabbed those values from that sensor (the 127°C was for a bare split second on mine). Now, next questions, what is CPUTIN and what's a normal temperature for it? I'm guessing North or Southbridge? BTW, AIDA64 shows my mobo at 27°C
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Hiding your image in a spoiler to save space.


Yeah, that's where AI Suite was grabbing 127C from. It's definitely bogus.

I also have a temperature on my board that says current value 8.5C min value -1.5C and max value 18.5C. These values are physically impossible given that I have an ambient temperature of 26C right now. I just hide that sensor in Open Hardware Monitor.


----------



## Karlz3r

Guys, seems like I have an issue with the on-board audio of my P8Z68-V/GEN3.









Every now and then it disables and then enables the speakers that are connected to the rear port.
I just played BF3 for a while and about 4 times a hour my speakers stop working for a second and then the sound comes back.

I have the newest Realtek drivers installed.
Newest BIOS.
The speakers are Speedlink Serenity XXL 2.1 and they were working perfectly with my previous motherboard.

I have tried reconnecting the rear speakers, also connecting them to every other port, just in case.

The situation is basically the same as in here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1031476/asus-p8z68-v-pro-realtek-audio-dialog-keeps-popping-up

Anybody familiar with this problem?
What could I try to do (besides returning it and possibly getting another one with the same problem after 2 weeks)?



*Update:* I was looking at the Realtek software when it suddenly happened again. I saw the front audio getting connected for a second.
I have now unplugged the front connectors from the motherboard, thinking that this was actually an issue with my computer case.
So far it hasn't happened again, so it seems that I found the source of the problem.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> God that Corsair 600T SE is so nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy with it?


Sorry to be so long replying. Life got in the way







Yeah it is a great case. The quality is awesome ...it's roomy....cable management is the best







. When I first got it I thought it might need an additional case fan but it cools very well and does it quietly. I just love this rig


----------



## bodean

I've never had issues with AI Suite.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karlz3r*
> 
> Guys, seems like I have an issue with the on-board audio of my P8Z68-V/GEN3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every now and then it disables and then enables the speakers that are connected to the rear port.
> I just played BF3 for a while and about 4 times a hour my speakers stop working for a second and then the sound comes back.
> I have the newest Realtek drivers installed.
> Newest BIOS.
> The speakers are Speedlink Serenity XXL 2.1 and they were working perfectly with my previous motherboard.
> I have tried reconnecting the rear speakers, also connecting them to every other port, just in case.
> The situation is basically the same as in here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1031476/asus-p8z68-v-pro-realtek-audio-dialog-keeps-popping-up
> Anybody familiar with this problem?
> What could I try to do (besides returning it and possibly getting another one with the same problem after 2 weeks)?
> 
> *Update:* I was looking at the Realtek software when it suddenly happened again. I saw the front audio getting connected for a second.
> I have now unplugged the front connectors from the motherboard, thinking that this was actually an issue with my computer case.
> So far it hasn't happened again, so it seems that I found the source of the problem.


Holy crap I had the same issue with my non-Gen 3! http://www.overclock.net/t/1135428/audio-issue

I thought it was b/c i messed something up on the board!

It may be BIOS related. I had the system with an older BIOS at first and didn't have the issue. I updated and reinstalled and I started having the issue too!

I finally gave up and bought a sound card.

Let me know if you find a fix b/c I am giving this system to my dad without a sound card and don't want that crap popping up.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

I hope someone can help me out here ...

I have an Asus P8P67 Evo Motherboard and when I activate the TPU switch and switch my pc on ... it restarts itself then boots but my memory is changed back to 1333mhz and the overclock achieved is only 140mhz ...

Is this normal ?? ... Or is my 2500K, one of those bad overclocking chips ??

all information would be greatly appreciated

Kind Regards


----------



## Stianby

quick question:
iGpu on or off?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stianby*
> 
> quick question:
> iGpu on or off?


If this was directed at me ... The P67 Evo doesn't support iGPU ... or am I mistaken ??


----------



## chillidog

i throught that @ first untill i started to oc for the first time using the ai suite.then i had northing but trouble all the way
kept geting bsod's all the time,i throught it was me over overclocking the wrong way etc.untill twocables mention to unistall the ai suite software
and i never looked back.
it is now well knowned that the ai suite is very bugy.but might work ok for newbie's for their 1st time quick oc up to 4.3/4 but any thing over that is an no no
if you unistall make sure clean all traces of the software from your system.
since i have got rid off this software i have manage overclocking my system to 5.0 with no problems all 24hr stable

URL=http://www.overclock.net/image/id/1522027/width/600/height/525]







[/URL]


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all ...
> I hope someone can help me out here ...
> I have an Asus P8P67 Evo Motherboard and when I activate the TPU switch and switch my pc on ... it restarts itself then boots but my memory is changed back to 1333mhz and the overclock achieved is only 140mhz ...
> Is this normal ?? ... Or is my 2500K, one of those bad overclocking chips ??
> all information would be greatly appreciated
> Kind Regards


You dont have IGP on a P8P.

Seems little different from OC Tuner in bios, so only for the faint hearted overclocker anyway. Have you tried overclocking it to the guide done by that Asus rep. It's reproduced in the second post here and posted at HardOCP and XtremeSystems

Bios overclocking is the only real way to tell, from my POV.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

I seem to be having a problem ... if i change settings in the bios ... or if i flip the TPU switch to on ... my system boots then switches off without displaying any form of a post ... then switches back on and boots into windows ... sometimes it will restart like that 3 times ...

I think I have a faulty piece of hardware ...


----------



## Stianby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> If this was directed at me ... The P67 Evo doesn't support iGPU ... or am I mistaken ??


Well i thought that all 2nd gen Core i7's on the 1155 supported the built in graphics? Or am I mistaken? I was just wondering if most users have it on or off? It seems to be helping me with ingame FPS, when i turn on the virtu function..
Thx for the reply


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stianby*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> If this was directed at me ... The P67 Evo doesn't support iGPU ... or am I mistaken ??
> 
> 
> 
> Well i thought that all 2nd gen Core i7's on the 1155 supported the built in graphics? Or am I mistaken? I was just wondering if most users have it on or off? It seems to be helping me with ingame FPS, when i turn on the virtu function..
> Thx for the reply
Click to expand...

They do, but the P67 chipset does not, only H61, H67, and Z68 do. Even then some Z68 mobos do not have video out connections for some reason...o.0

Mine is off btw.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stianby*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> If this was directed at me ... The P67 Evo doesn't support iGPU ... or am I mistaken ??
> 
> 
> 
> Well i thought that all 2nd gen Core i7's on the 1155 supported the built in graphics? Or am I mistaken? I was just wondering if most users have it on or off? It seems to be helping me with ingame FPS, when i turn on the virtu function..
> Thx for the reply
Click to expand...

All the sandybridge cpu's have the igpu ... but my chipset does not support it ... that is how I understand it ...


----------



## kevindd992002

So how do you enable USB 3.0 Boost if you don't install AI Suite?


----------



## Overclockname

Hi folks,

"Intel Management Engine Driver:" Is that program needed or worthwhile to install?? I don't even see it listed on the Asus download site for the p8z68v-pro/gen3.

Thought I read somewhere that it only had to do with remote access or something like that......

Thanks


----------



## chillidog

if i can remember when you go through the install of ai suite from the motherboard disc, it will give you an option which program/software you want to install just tick box next to ASUS USB 3.0 Boost V1.02.06 for Windows XP/Vista/7 32bit & 64bit.

don't use the express option if i can remember.
BUT don't hold this against me i might or not be right on this


----------



## discoprince

hi, i have a 120gb SATA 3 SSD and a 6gb/s WD 1TB HDD both plugged into the intel sata 3 ports. I want to get a 60GB SSD to use as a cache for my HDD on my z68 asus.
My question is are the marvell sata 3 ports safe to use if i bump my HDD up to one of them and have two sata 3 SSD's on the intel ones?


----------



## am dew1

I have been following this forum since getting my new system with the P8Z68/V-Pro Gen3 board a month or so ago. A lot of great information here...thanks to everyone!

I see people asking to be added to the club...are there any benefits of being added or is being a member just mean you get your profile name added to the first page here?


----------



## bodean

Please add me to the club.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclockname*
> 
> Hi folks,
> "Intel Management Engine Driver:" Is that program needed or worthwhile to install?? I don't even see it listed on the Asus download site for the p8z68v-pro/gen3.
> 
> Thought I read somewhere that it only had to do with remote access or something like that......
> Thanks


The "Intel Management Engine Interface " is a part of the VPro technology of Intel.
This IMEI technology allows you to manage your pc remotely.
And is more designed for enterprise than home users.


----------



## Karlz3r

I was able to achieve 5.0 just for the validation today.

Here we go:


My first 5.0 GHz!

From now on I'm using 1.6 (0.86v)/4.0 (1.21v) GHz power saving for 24/7 usage.

I love this board!


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So how do you enable USB 3.0 Boost if you don't install AI Suite?


I install it by itself using the it's specific folder and setup.exe. It never works (for me) when I want to install / remove it via AI SUITE itself. For example..

D:\AISuite_II_V10216_XPVistaWin7\AISuite_II_V10216_X79_XPVistaWin7\USB 3.0 Boost - V1.02.06 (then just launch the setup.exe).

add: I do think you need AI SUITE though if that's what you're asking...it'll install it as part of it.


----------



## dennyb

Guys,this is bugging me. Maybe you can help. I have a total of 6 tb of drive space . All HDD (1- 500gb Samsung-7200 rpm......1- 1tb Samsung-7200 rpm .....3- 1.5tb, one green 2 high performance. My rig is set to high performance but I still get lag when I try to click on the drives. Sometimes they come up quickly sometimes not. Sometimes the folders on the drives are slow opening as well. All of the drives are close to being full but not in the red. I am thinking that the amount of data on them has caused them to lag ? Anyone have any ideas that may help ?

edit--example>>>click on recycle bin and it is very slow to respond some times. Other folders as well


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> Guys,this is bugging me. Maybe you can help. I have a total of 6 tb of drive space . All HDD (1- 500gb Samsung-7200 rpm......1- 1tb Samsung-7200 rpm .....3- 1.5tb, one green 2 high performance. My rig is set to high performance but I still get lag when I try to click on the drives. Sometimes they come up quickly sometimes not. Sometimes the folders on the drives are slow opening as well. All of the drives are close to being full but not in the red. I am thinking that the amount of data on them has caused them to lag ? Anyone have any ideas that may help ?
> 
> edit--example>>>click on recycle bin and it is very slow to respond some times. Other folders as well


Tried a defrag?


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Tried a defrag?


Yes I have . the computer runs very fast as far as doing work, it is just annoying that the drives do not respond quickly


----------



## chillidog

my set up now is @ 5.0 and all prime stable for 24hr use.temps for me is ok only one core reached 70c the rest is well in the 60's
this is using prime 95 and realtemp software and cpu-z

this might not work for everyone but it will help out for most.
if you don't want to go 5.0 all you have to do is reduce the core ratio ( let's say 4.9) and i know that for 4.9 my vcore voltage will work ok at 1.34 to 1.36v all this will depends on your cooling set up,but you's might be able to reduce the voltage abit more.only doing so by 0.5 incentments
also you might notice that am using xmp profile for me it works a treat.
one other thing in the 2nd picture you will see that the cpu manual voltage is at 1.43 i have now got it down to 1.41 to 1.42 not a big difference but it all helps.

DON'T FOR GET THIS IS ONLY A TEMPLATE FOR YOUS TO GO BY (BUT WORKS FOR ME) AND I WILL NOT BE HOLD RESPONSABLE.


----------



## am dew1

Please add me to the club...thanks!


----------



## am dew1

So, I decided to update the BIOS on my P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3 to version 0402 after setting to Optimized Defaults and saving the old 0302 version, which I had saved a few customized profiles to. However, I was surprised that after the update my customized profiles were gone. Is that normal? I ended up going back to 0302 so I did not have to try and remember my customizations.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> So, I decided to update the BIOS on my P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3 to version 0402 after setting to Optimized Defaults and saving the old 0302 version, which I had saved a few customized profiles to. However, I was surprised that after the update my customized profiles were gone. Is that normal? I ended up going back to 0302 so I did not have to try and remember my customizations.


Yeah it clears the profile, I found that out early on lol. Now if ever I want update the BIOS I just write them all down on a piece of paper before hand. Well now you know


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Yeah it clears the profile, I found that out early on lol. Now if ever I want update the BIOS I just write them all down on a piece of paper before hand. Well now you know


Well, ain't that the pits.







The only reason I decided to update the BIOS is that someone told me elsewhere on the web that the new BIOS would help in the relatively slow POST process. From what I saw in the few times I rebooted though, it did not seem to help.


----------



## chillidog

dennyb
am right of thinking in your sig under new system you have got 5 drives?
if am right of thinking running five drives with only 650 psu would slow your drive speed down.
the only way forward is to go ssd. and i would get a good graphics card then you will see much improve system about 50% better

i would think as well defrag your drives would take many hrs


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> dennyb
> am right of thinking in your sig under new system you have got 5 drives?
> if am right of thinking running five drives with only 650 psu would slow your drive speed down.
> the only way forward is to go ssd. and i would get a good graphics card then you will see much improve system about 50% better
> i would think as well defrag your drives would take many hrs


Yes, I have 5 drives and am presently using integrated graphics only. I also was wondering if I was underpowered with the 650....which is why I am not running my old 4830 graphics card thinking it would just need more power but with your scenario I would be better off using it ? My drives get defragged regularly with Iobit Smart Defrag.. I guess I will try the 4830 to see if it helps. Will report back


----------



## Stianby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> dennyb
> am right of thinking in your sig under new system you have got 5 drives?
> if am right of thinking running five drives with only 650 psu would slow your drive speed down.
> the only way forward is to go ssd. and i would get a good graphics card then you will see much improve system about 50% better
> i would think as well defrag your drives would take many hrs


Agree on that one, you will get surges from the psu under load. That will have an effect on performance. If all the drives are continually spinning, the load on the psu is quite heavy. I had the same problem, until i went from 620 to 850w psu, when i was running four mechanical harddrives.


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stianby*
> 
> Agree on that one, you will get surges from the psu under load. That will have an effect on performance. If all the drives are continually spinning, the load on the psu is quite heavy. I had the same problem, until i went from 620 to 850w psu, when i was running four mechanical harddrives.


Thanks also for your input







. I now have the 4830 installed and am now operating off of it. So far I am seeing a vast improvement when I click on my drives they open instantly and the folders in them do as well. Of course i will monitor them for a while to see if the love continues. +rep to all who contributed....dennyb

Munaim1---don't see a rep button for you but Thanks for helping:thumb:


----------



## chillidog

well am happy for you now:thumb:
but if it was me i would up grade to min 700 psu onwards if the $$ will allow.don't forget 5 hardrives,1 dvd drive,motherboard,keyboard and so on
will take it's toll on performace
not sure what type of work or stuff you use on these drives for.but if you not using any of them discornect the one you not using and then you should still see more performance


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stianby*
> 
> Agree on that one, you will get surges from the psu under load. That will have an effect on performance. If all the drives are continually spinning, the load on the psu is quite heavy. I had the same problem, until i went from 620 to 850w psu, when i was running four mechanical harddrives.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks also for your input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I now have the 4830 installed and am now operating off of it. So far I am seeing a vast improvement when I click on my drives they open instantly and the folders in them do as well. Of course i will monitor them for a while to see if the love continues. +rep to all who contributed....dennyb
> 
> Munaim1---don't see a rep button for you but Thanks for helping:thumb:
Click to expand...

Yeah unfortunately being Editor I lost my REP button lol.









I have 4 drives and an ssd and don't have the problem you face, maybe because I set the hard drive not to turn off after a particular time in the power options settings, like so, try that and let me know if it improves it:


----------



## turrican9

Added the following to the Club:

*Birdyz*, a P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 owner

*am dew1*, a P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 owner

*bodean*, a P8Z68-V/GEN3 owner

*Stianby*, a P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 owner

*yeahi*, a P8Z68-V owner

Welcome!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> I install it by itself using the it's specific folder and setup.exe. It never works (for me) when I want to install / remove it via AI SUITE itself. For example..
> D:\AISuite_II_V10216_XPVistaWin7\AISuite_II_V10216_X79_XPVistaWin7\USB 3.0 Boost - V1.02.06 (then just launch the setup.exe).
> add: I do think you need AI SUITE though if that's what you're asking...it'll install it as part of it.


So the USB 3.0 boost "package" from ASUS or from the OCN Driver thread contains the AI Suite itself?


----------



## dennyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Yeah unfortunately being Editor I lost my REP button lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4 drives and an ssd and don't have the problem you face, maybe because I set the hard drive not to turn off after a particular time in the power options settings, like so, try that and let me know if it improves it:


Thanks munaim1...It seems to be running like it should (quick response)







. I was already on high performance and never for sleep and display. I now have the advanced setting for hard drive set to "never" turn off as well. i think I'm gonna be fine now







Thanks to everyone who helped


----------



## HaZarD SFD

Can I join the club??


----------



## csm725

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Yeah unfortunately being Editor I lost my REP button lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4 drives and an ssd and don't have the problem you face, maybe because I set the hard drive not to turn off after a particular time in the power options settings, like so, try that and let me know if it improves it:


I didn't picture you as the kind of guy to have pink window tint...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaZarD SFD*
> 
> Can I join the club??


Added! Welcome!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I have been following this forum since getting my new system with the P8Z68/V-Pro Gen3 board a month or so ago. A lot of great information here...thanks to everyone!
> I see people asking to be added to the club...are there any benefits of being added or is being a member just mean you get your profile name added to the first page here?


Membership has it's benefits....They gave me the numbers for a winning lottery ticket and I'm still poor....Just kidding, you're right! But who doesn't want their name and rig in lights?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

I have a P8P67 Evo and would love to join the club ... How do I go about joining ...


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all ...
> I have a P8P67 Evo and would love to join the club ... How do I go about joining ...


Added! Welcome! 

Btw, your sig shows a P8Z68-V PRO.. ?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Added! Welcome!
> 
> Btw, your sig shows a P8Z68-V PRO.. ?


I have a Lan rig and a Permanent home rig ... just have not put both up ... cause apart from motherboard they are basically the exact same ... ... Evo in the LAN rig and Z68-V Pro in the home rig ...

<<just updated my Sig Rig to reflect both builds>>


----------



## Emissary of Pain

and ... Thank You for the add ...







...

Pity there is no group for my GFX Card ... lol


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> Thanks munaim1...It seems to be running like it should (quick response)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was already on high performance and never for sleep and display. I now have the advanced setting for hard drive set to "never" turn off as well. i think I'm gonna be fine now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone who helped


I was going to suggest a bios update but I see you already did and it's working fine now. I run 3 HD's, 1 SSD and a DvD all on 500 w PSU and I have no problems. The power lag will come into play, but I think you're fine with the 650 you have. If you put anymore on it, then I would consider uping the PSU.

For everyone...

Well, I tried the IRST and man it works! First off you have to remember you can only use the IRST on one hard drive with one SSD drive. I have a 60gig SSD mated to a 700 gig Seagate. You have to follow the Intel instructions to the letter and it'll work fine. You also need the latest IRST driver which can be had on the Microsoft web download page, version 10.8.0.1003. I've only had it on now for 3 days and the cache is just now building up. Holy speed, batman! My system boots in 20 seconds now. Outlook opens in 1 second flat. I've also had a couple games on and they too are now speeding up. It's interesting as one day they'll run normal, next a bit faster and in a few days they load and change levels, etc; in a blink of the eye. Also, with all I've read on the subject of IRST, don't use any bigger than a 60 Gig SSD or it's going to waste (unless you get a big SSD and then partition it down to different sizes and use about a 20-30 gig partition for the acceleration IRST of one hard drive). A common mistake a lot of folks think is that you can use a bunch of hard drives, you can't. It is limited to one hard drive and one SSD. But it is well worth the speed increase. And as the cache builds up program oads, etc; will get faster and faster.

Bottom line...Intel Rapid Storage Technology does works and it works well. So if you want to boost the speed of hard drive read and writes, this one actually works well.


----------



## HaZarD SFD

Thanks


----------



## neonlazer

Lovin this board!! Add me









































One day I will get around to moving that pump somewhere..i was hoping it would fit somewhere else without much fuss..well..it fussed


----------



## truehighroller1

Can I reply to anything yet lol?

Yay finally. I've been trying to reply to threads for days now and wasn't able to. Something happened with my account some how.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neonlazer*
> 
> Lovin this board!! Add me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One day I will get around to moving that pump somewhere..i was hoping it would fit somewhere else without much fuss..well..it fussed


Added! Nice System! Welcome!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Can I reply to anything yet lol?
> Yay finally. I've been trying to reply to threads for days now and wasn't able to. Something happened with my account some how.


Yes, I can see you


----------



## Argaios

Just picked up my new rig and would like to get it overclocked to 4.0 GHz. I have not had any luck with using the autotuning features... it doesn't find a stable configuration for some reason.

Rather than messing around... I would much rather leverage the experience of those on this forum.

*COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1
ASUS P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost)
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) (8-8-8-24, 1.5V)
CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850
CORSAIR Force Series GT 180GB SSD
ASUS ENGTX570 DCII/2DIS/1280MD5*

Latest UEFI BIOS (301 I believe).
Windows 7 64-bit OS

The system has been completely stable at stock settings for about a month... but I would like to say that I am running a 4.0GHz rig. I know it can go much higher... but 4.0Ghz would bring some bragging rights at the local LAN party and shouldn't bring an ounce of instability (which is very important).

Let me know what you think. Many thanks.


----------



## Karlz3r

Argaios, go to http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG and list your components up in there.









4.0 should be fairly easy. Mine is stable so far at 1.22vCore.
Make sure you keep your ram at default, because those sticks are known to not overclock well, which can cause instability.

The other thing is set your VDIMM to 1.5 manually, because SB isn't meant for maintaining high memory volt (1.5 VDIMM is the 24/7 safe limit).


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karlz3r*
> 
> Argaios, go to http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG and list your components up in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.0 should be fairly easy. Mine is stable so far at 1.22vCore.
> Make sure you keep your ram at default, because those sticks are known to not overclock well, which can cause instability.
> The other thing is set your VDIMM to 1.5 manually, because SB isn't meant for maintaining high memory volt (1.5 VDIMM is the 24/7 safe limit).


I've been running mine at the suggested 1.65v that my memory calls for. I'm not having any issues so far???


----------



## bodean

I would like to know if my settings for 4.3 are good also.


----------



## Argaios

Well here is what I did... I suspected the RAM was not overclocking well... so I reset all BIOS values to *optimized defaults*.

Then I simply changed the *AI Overclock* setting from Auto to Manual. Then I changed the *By All Cores* multiplier value from Auto to 42 (so the CPU would top out at 4200 MHz instead of the default 3800).

All other settings default (or Auto).... rebooted and no problem at all...

The memory settings need to stay auto (in my case) since the RAM doesn't take well to OCing (besides, the RAM is fast enough already).

The one thing I noticed though... the CPU temp went to 68 C (when playing BF3), which is about 6 C higher than normal but still within safe limits (at least from what I have read).

The Vcore fluxs between 1.320 and 1.328 V (monitoring using the ASUS Probe II tool. I am considering upgrading from the stock cooler to get a few more points off the CPU temp... but at this point I am happy.

I was only shooting for 4GHz, but safely hit 4.2GHz with very minimal changes.


----------



## Argaios

And the values with automatic power management enabled.... much better.


----------



## bigbadboogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morias*
> 
> Hmpf, so the P8Z68 doesn't allow CPU fan speed changes through voltage regulation?
> 
> Not sure whether I'm more disappointed with the mobo, or whenther I blame the Corsair cooler for not being PWM regulated...


I am running BIOS: P8Z68-V-PRO-GEN3-ASUS-0402

*I thought my fan controller for the CPU-fan was broken when i noticed this.* but it is probably the BIOS.
I have had Aus boards for as long as I can remember and 3-pin control has ALLWAYS been possible.

*I have my system setup as follows:* (positive pressure case - SS FT02)
CPU_Fan: 1*180mm intake fan - 3pin
CPU_Opt: 1*180mm intake fan - 3pin

Cha_Fan1: 1*180mm intake fan - 3pin
Cha_Fan2: 1*120mm outlet fan - 3pin

*When running Asus FanXpert (and speedfan) it works like follows:*
Chassifans can be varied
CPUfans can NOT be varied

*This MUST be a Bios bug.*
Both fan controllers reside on the same fan controller chip.
On the mobo the
- Cha_Fan1 is a 4-pin and Cha_Fan2 is a 3-pin but works both works with 3-pin fans (both are controlled).
- CPU_fan and Cpu_Opt connectors are both 4-pin

So if one works the other one should too.
I will write to asus about this and I propose you guys do to.
They need to release a new bios.

*Has anyone managed to get the CPU-fan control working with a 4-pin PMV even?*

*[EDIT] I have now sent an email to Asus to fix the BIOS and if possible make it possible to adjust each fan individually [EDIT]*

Best regads
Boogieman

ps
Opting for manual fan control is a big no no for me.
I dont want to fiddle with controls when i *think* i will load the cpu.
This should be automated since the possibility is there.
My old cans are all super quiet even though seriously overclocked (i.e. p4 [email protected] with super tight mem timings and Radeon HD2600XT with 2 chassi fans only...dead silent...can only hear the raidsetup clicking. Custom made cooling tunnels from foam and modified vents sure helped. Only cheap coolers like AC accelero S1 and some old tower cooler that got the worst rating....a tough nut to get working but when tunnels were done it kept the CPU tepm just as low (even lower) as my old zalman....only passively







)
ds


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

Just a quick question ...

I am sitting at 4.8ghz with a vCore of 1.4\1436v ... my offset is +0.100 ... ... my goal being the golden or semi golden 5Ghz+ ... ... what should my PLL be and how do I calculate it ?? ...

I have a rough idea what it is thanks to another user ... but it is still way over my head ...

All information would be greatly appreciated ...

Kind Regards.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dennyb*
> 
> Thanks munaim1...It seems to be running like it should (quick response)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was already on high performance and never for sleep and display. I now have the advanced setting for hard drive set to "never" turn off as well. i think I'm gonna be fine now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone who helped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to suggest a bios update but I see you already did and it's working fine now. I run 3 HD's, 1 SSD and a DvD all on 500 w PSU and I have no problems. The power lag will come into play, but I think you're fine with the 650 you have. If you put anymore on it, then I would consider uping the PSU.
> 
> For everyone...
> 
> Well, I tried the IRST and man it works! First off you have to remember you can only use the IRST on one hard drive with one SSD drive. I have a 60gig SSD mated to a 700 gig Seagate. You have to follow the Intel instructions to the letter and it'll work fine. You also need the latest IRST driver which can be had on the Microsoft web download page, version 10.8.0.1003. I've only had it on now for 3 days and the cache is just now building up. Holy speed, batman! My system boots in 20 seconds now. Outlook opens in 1 second flat. I've also had a couple games on and they too are now speeding up. It's interesting as one day they'll run normal, next a bit faster and in a few days they load and change levels, etc; in a blink of the eye. Also, with all I've read on the subject of IRST, don't use any bigger than a 60 Gig SSD or it's going to waste (unless you get a big SSD and then partition it down to different sizes and use about a 20-30 gig partition for the acceleration IRST of one hard drive). A common mistake a lot of folks think is that you can use a bunch of hard drives, you can't. It is limited to one hard drive and one SSD. But it is well worth the speed increase. And as the cache builds up program oads, etc; will get faster and faster.
> 
> Bottom line...Intel Rapid Storage Technology does works and it works well. So if you want to boost the speed of hard drive read and writes, this one actually works well.
Click to expand...

I really think you are referring to ISRT and not IRST. They are two different acronyms. The IRST software is needed to run ISRT. Just FYI


----------



## Epox

Can anyone please help me OC this configuration?

Asus P8Z68/GEN3/Deluxe
i5 2500K
Corsair Dominator 2x4GB 1600MHz, 9-9-9-24, 1.65V
SSD Corsair Force GT 120GB

I tried to do some settings but it wouldn't even load the BIOS anymore, scared me to death. I tried several things, small steps but only in basic features click that 3rd tab for OC, it will only give something like 150MHz more, really ridiculous.

Also I tried to install Asus Tweaker programs like AI suite or something, the Net version and the CD version do not work. I tried some patcher from another version board in the P8Z68 serie, nothing works... getting really desperate here

I want to know every setting that has to be done.
Thank you very much in advance!!

(CPU temp under windows atm around 30/34 degrees C)
(Graphics card GTX570)
(Coolermaster 850W Silent Pro M)
(Corsair casing)
(Windows 7 - 64bit)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Epox*
> 
> Can anyone please help me OC this configuration?
> Asus P8Z68/GEN3/Deluxe
> i5 2500K
> Corsair Dominator 2x4GB 1600MHz, 9-9-9-24, 1.65V
> SSD Corsair Force GT 120GB
> I tried to do some settings but it wouldn't even load the BIOS anymore, scared me to death. I tried several things, small steps but only in basic features click that 3rd tab for OC, it will only give something like 150MHz more, really ridiculous.
> Also I tried to install Asus Tweaker programs like AI suite or something, the Net version and the CD version do not work. I tried some patcher from another version board in the P8Z68 serie, nothing works... getting really desperate here
> I want to know every setting that has to be done.
> Thank you very much in advance!!
> (CPU temp under windows atm around 30/34 degrees C)
> (Graphics card GTX570)
> (Coolermaster 850W Silent Pro M)
> (Corsair casing)
> (Windows 7 - 64bit)


Set Ai Tuner to Manual,

Set Turbo multiplier to 43X

Set Memory Frequency to DDR3-1600

Set DRAM voltage to 1.65V (if that is the specified voltage)

If you want to retain C1E voltage changes, then leave Vcore Auto for now. You can offset this depending upon how stable the system is.

If you want to use a static voltage then set Processor voltage to manual and use 1.35V just as a starting point.

-Raja


----------



## j_syk

I'm using the P8P67 Deluxe Rev 3.0, if I can get added. Thanks for compiling some useful info about these boards here. I think I'll finally fix my double boot problem tonight!


----------



## Karlz3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I've been running mine at the suggested 1.65v that my memory calls for. I'm not having any issues so far???


Yes, SB chips can run with the VDIMMs at 1.65 and possibly even higher, but over 1.5 is not recommended by Intel. That's why the new ram sticks have significantly lower voltages. The older sticks were used for i7 systems.

Coupled up with having other volts high as well, people can burn their chips.


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

is the p8z68 a top of the line asus board i know its only matx i wont be overclocking or anything and only using 1 graphic card


----------



## Karlz3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> is the p8z68 a top of the line asus board i know its only matx i wont be overclocking or anything and only using 1 graphic card


The board is definitely high-end, but I don't see a reason to pay half more for a motherboard when you aren't going to use its functions?

It's not mATX, it's an ordinary ATX. The ROG GENE-Z board is mATX and carries about same functions.


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

i ment to put p8z68-m pro sorry


----------



## Karlz3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> i ment to put p8z68-m pro sorry


Why would you buy an overclocking motherboard if you're not planning to overclock on it?
It's almost twice the money, don't you feel sorry for your wallet?









Maybe you should look at the entry-mid range Z68 boards that Gigabyte has to offer.


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

My wallet is burnt from buying a house and my SR2 build Also gigabyte sucks with there boot loop


----------



## am dew1

I added a couple hard drives to my rig last night (P8Z68V-Pro/GEN3). What a shoddy design the way the SATA ports are laid out with their connectors facing towards the drive bays in the Antec 300 case, which makes connecting the SATA cables to the board's ports a significant challenge. Anyone have any tips?

Also, what would be the desired SATA ports for attaching these devices?

1 x 80 GB Sata II SSD (boot drive)
3 x 750 GB Sata II HDD
1 x SATA CD/DVD RW


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

i think having them face the hdd are the best.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I added a couple hard drives to my rig last night (P8Z68V-Pro/GEN3). What a shoddy design the way the SATA ports are laid out with their connectors facing towards the drive bays in the Antec 300 case, which makes connecting the SATA cables to the board's ports a significant challenge.


hahaha ... U should try connect them when your board is at 90 degrees in the raven case ... ... I have fairly large hands and less than 2 inches space between the sata ports and the AP fans in the bottom of the chassis


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> hahaha ... U should try connect them when your board is at 90 degrees in the raven case ... ... I have fairly large hands and less than 2 inches space between the sata ports and the AP fans in the bottom of the chassis


I think what I would have done if I had built my system (I bought it from a custom maker), I would have attached SATA cables to each port whether or not I was going to use them at the time or not, and then tucked away the un-used cables for retrieval later when additional drives were added.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

That isn't a bad idea ... but something I am really disappointed in with this chassis is the cable management ... there is little 2 no space 2 hide cables ... ... I guess they expect people 2 be able 2 go modular considering they buying a high end chassis ... but yeah ... not me ... and the Corsair 650w doesn't have only a few cables either ... lol ...

check my uploaded pictures ... u should be able 2 make out the sata cables and cable management


----------



## holcombrm

Just built a rig with a P8Z68-V/GEN3. Would love to be added.


----------



## Danger72

Quote:


> I would have attached SATA cables to each port whether or not I was going to use them at the time or not, and then tucked away the un-used cables for retrieval later when additional drives were added.


Heh, that's exactly what I did the other day putting my rig together. Two extra sata cables are connected and tucked away for future HDDs.


----------



## Karlz3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holcombrm*
> 
> Just built a rig with a P8Z68-V/GEN3. Would love to be added.


It's a great board!









By the way, fill in your system specifications here:
http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG


----------



## Stianby

can i please be added to the club?


----------



## skyline385

Guys, i just got my Corsair H60 Cooler and am getting these results with push-pull using Arctic Silver 5. Can anyone suggest me some possible optimizations ?? My comp runs 24/7 for 3-4 days at a stretch.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Can I reply to anything yet lol?
> Yay finally. I've been trying to reply to threads for days now and wasn't able to. Something happened with my account some how.


Sorry, I forgot to turn your replies back on. (Just kidding, I wonder where you went...) The IRST works great. Everyday programs load faster and faster. Some are faster than a blink of the eye now and I'm very impressed at this technology. Only thing with it is, it was meant for a low budget (which is good) meaning you don't need more than a 20-30 gig SSD. Since a 20GB SSD costs as much as a 60 or 64 that's the route I took. A 60gig SSD Pyro from Patriot. First thing I did was hook it into the system under AHCI mode and updated the firmware to the latest. Then I realized it wasn't showing in Windows under Drives. Had to go into the system and tell it there was a new drive there (disk management). It poped right up. Anyway, put it into raid (disconnected the SSD first) and installed Win 7 64bit on my 700 gig Seagate. Then I put the drivers I needed on, with the big one being the IRST driver from Intel. Plugged the SSD back in and It saw it right away as an accelerator and it bonded (for lack of a better word) to the 700 gig without any hassles or hickup's. I was surprised it went so smoothly. Updated Windows, drivers, etc; and sat back and used the computer as always. The next day I noticed the boot time getting faster and a couple of programs I use everyday where also loading faster. Now it take 20 seconds to boot (from power on) and the programs I've been using pop up in the blink of an eye. It's truly amazing.

I am glad I got the Pyro for $89 (after rebate) so it was money well spent (and having a gift card from Santa helped too)....I wouldn't get any bigger SSD for a cache as it would be wasted. Even Intel says any more than 60 gig is a waste. After format it was like 55gigs and I'm using the whole drive as a cache.

Put in the H60 water cooler and it is nice. I'm already going to mod it a bit. I've got it hooked up with the fan drawing air through it and out into the room. It needs more so I have a higher priced fan coming to put behind it so it'll have two fans (push/pull). That should take care of the extra 'Omph' it needs. They want you to draw air into it and I wasn't about to do that as the dust would just get sucked into the new build. By putting it the other way around it just doesn't draw enough air over the radaitor to cool it like it should. It works, but the temps could be lower. That's when I got the idea of a push/pull fan. I looked to see if the radaitor has screw holes drilled in the open side and it does.

Now I'm going to start playing with the graphics card and see why it didn't work in the 16x slot. I've been busy doing a zillion other things. Oh, I did manage to put one photo in my gallery. But as soon as I get the other fan I'll update it along with a few more pix. Oppsss, guess I talked your ear off...... Did you get that I7 to warp 9 yet?









One last thing, the SSD is a SATA 3 and the HD is a SATA 2 . (In case anyone was interested)...


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

Question i am building a m atx gaming rig for friend is the p8z68 m pro a reliable motherboard. he will only oc 2500k to 4.0ghz and only have 1 graphic card

Also i see the top of the motherboard does not have a cooler is that something i have to worry about?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I really think you are referring to ISRT and not IRST. They are two different acronyms. The IRST software is needed to run ISRT. Just FYI


No, I'm referring to IRST Intel Rapid storage technology.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> is the p8z68 a top of the line asus board i know its only matx i wont be overclocking or anything and only using 1 graphic card


Just a suggestion, but go the route I did. I decided what I needed the mobo to do, with the features I know I'd use and got a mid-range Asus P8Z68-V-LE (about $130). They have a LS version with even less features. Ausu's website has a compare check mark by the different boards so you can see the different features side by side to help.


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

Thanks im always worried that if you buy a motherboard that is below 150 it is a crap board


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> 
> Guys, i just got my Corsair H60 Cooler and am getting these results with push-pull using Arctic Silver 5. Can anyone suggest me some possible optimizations ?? My comp runs 24/7 for 3-4 days at a stretch.


All I can suggest is, do you need to run the CPU @ 4.6 24/7? If you can take it down a notch or two I'm sure you won't lose much performance and it'll run a lot cooler. The only other thing I could suggest is the H70. It has bigger radiator lines (a thicker core) for lack of a better way to describe it, the radiator is built a bit bigger in the guts to cool more efficiently. I have an H60 also and I'm also putting in the extra fan to run it in push/pull like you are, but I'm not overclocking (yet) so my temps (with one fan) are reasonable. Another possibility is the H100. Put that in and sell the H60 to cut some of your loss.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> Thanks im always worried that if you buy a motherboard that is below 150 it is a crap board


I know what you mean. Haven't had a bit of trouble with ASUS boards. About 4 different ones over 20 years now. I've found that even the lower priced boards are pretty tough and work great. I still think it all boils down to what you need the board to do and what features you need the most. I have to add a firewire port to mine which if I would have bought the board with it on, the board would have been almost two hundred bucks. I got a firewire card for twelve bucks and just stuck it in a open slot. A lot cheaper. Good luck!


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

Yea, I looked at feautres and it looks nice for oc to 4.0ghz because it wont stress the board parts and i only use 1 graphic card. i guess ill still shop around

im worried that the board wont be reliable and stuff


----------



## skyline385

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> All I can suggest is, do you need to run the CPU @ 4.6 24/7? If you can take it down a notch or two I'm sure you won't lose much performance and it'll run a lot cooler. The only other thing I could suggest is the H70. It has bigger radiator lines (a thicker core) for lack of a better way to describe it, the radiator is built a bit bigger in the guts to cool more efficiently. I have an H60 also and I'm also putting in the extra fan to run it in push/pull like you are, but I'm not overclocking (yet) so my temps (with one fan) are reasonable. Another possibility is the H100. Put that in and sell the H60 to cut some of your loss.


Isnt 68 deg.C under Prime95 at full laod reasonable, i mean my i5 stays at 45 under idle and around 55 for normal general load. If possible can someone help with BLCK frequency / Multiplier combination so that i can acheive around 4.6 with slightly better temperatures


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> 
> Guys, i just got my Corsair H60 Cooler and am getting these results with push-pull using Arctic Silver 5. Can anyone suggest me some possible optimizations ?? My comp runs 24/7 for 3-4 days at a stretch.


1: your blck/freg @ 105.0 is a no no

BCLK Base Clock - This is strictly a NO, anyone using base clock overclocking could/will cause damange to CPU/Mainboard. (Set manually to 100)

2: you be better off unistalling ai suite and do a manual oc with your blck/freg set @ 100.0
3:the h60 i would say you are at your max if you going to go fixed water cooling i would say h70 to h100 would be best but this depends if you got $$.

looking at your prime 95 you only ran it for 12 mins and your max core temp is at 66 i would expect that it would get much higher temps with longer prime test.

not sure what other people veiws are but this is what i recommend doing,the ai suite is known to be very buggy

just my veiw and pennys worth


----------



## Danger72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> Guys, i just got my Corsair H60 Cooler and am getting these results with push-pull using Arctic Silver 5. Can anyone suggest me some possible optimizations ?? My comp runs 24/7 for 3-4 days at a stretch.


Those temps are normal under full load. If your speedstep is enabled you should see the multiplier drop to 16 and your temps drop to about 26C when at idle.

I have the H8O and under full load with Prime95 I hit just under 80C with the multiplier at 49 with it sitting at 26-30C at idle.


----------



## chillidog

you be better of doing it manualy overclocking
as a guide see my post #5613
don't use ai suite
manualy set blck/freq to 100.0
doe's your memory support xmp? if so go that way
and then set turbo ratio to by all cores
and then set your core ratio for each core to say (46)or 4.7
and then set your cpu manual voltage to manual. and then set cpu manual voltage for starters @ 1.34
and then just follow the rast of the settings in my post,save and reboot and then prime 95 see how far you can go if ok for an hr you could then reduce the core voltage down by 0.5 at a time
or if prime fails just increase the vcore by 0.5 untill prime is stable you just got to find that ballance untill prime is stable and the temps is ok

in theory your set up should run ok like mine we more than less got the same set up.
all mine ocing @ 4.6 up to 5.0 is now 24/7 stable


----------



## skyline385

Guys, i dont use AI Suite for overclocking, i do it in BIOS itself. I use AI Suite for tweaking to check stability and finding the sweet spot. Thanks for your advice, and yes i will uninstall it. Also i did set my BLCK frequency to 100. However, i dont understand this. Without changing BLCK, how are the locked CPU's overclocked, cause most of the guides recommend overclocking by minor changes to the base clock frequency, yet here many tend to avoid it....

EDIT : My *CPU stops downclocking* once i overclock it. Under default settings, it downclocks without any problem, but as soon as i give a multiplier of 46, it stays contantly at 4600 MHz. Help someone, is it normal behavior (And yes, speedstep is enabled)

EDIT : Nevermind, Windows power settings was in High performance mode, setting it to balanced solves downclocking problem


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Just switched over from a 3 year old AMD board, I feel like I need to learn how to OC again.








Time to get reading.

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3


----------



## skyline385

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> Just switched over from a 3 year old AMD board, I feel like I need to learn how to OC again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to get reading.
> ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3


One thing i notice is that your RAMs are in A1 and B1 slots. ASUS says to use A2 and B2 slots in dual mode, just pointing it out, cant say whether it would make a difference....


----------



## Eaglesfan251

I noticed that in the manual too, I don't think it'll make a difference.


----------



## csm725

I think A2 B2 is dual channel. Just move the RAM over.


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Yeah, I will when I get done this P6904 WU it's working on.


----------



## csm725

Take advantage of the 6904 before the bigadv deadline shortage on the 16th


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> No, I'm referring to IRST Intel Rapid storage technology.


Well. you were referring to SSD cache in that post, right?


----------



## kevindd992002

Which of the AI Suite components is really necessary for our systems?


----------



## midimaxi

Computer just died! Doesn't want to power up at all. I press 'power' button on the case and or on the board and after short 'hissing' sound from my speakers nothing happens, nothing!








I've unplugged the power cord, waited for 5 min, then the same thing.
Only 'power' and 'reset' buttons are lit on the motherboard. Also there is a very short LED blink next to 'DRAM'. Tried removing RAM but with no luck.
Computer was working fine earlier today with no problems at all.
I'm completely lost since it doesn't even power up. Could it be PSU? Anyone heard such a thing? Any info is appreciated! Thx!


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midimaxi*
> 
> Computer just died! Doesn't want to power up at all. I press 'power' button on the case and or on the board and after short 'hissing' sound from my speakers nothing happens, nothing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've unplugged the power cord, waited for 5 min, then the same thing.
> Only 'power' and 'reset' buttons are lit on the motherboard. Also there is a very short LED blink next to 'DRAM'. Tried removing RAM but with no luck.
> Computer was working fine earlier today with no problems at all.
> I'm completely lost since it doesn't even power up. Could it be PSU? Anyone heard such a thing? Any info is appreciated! Thx!


Check this out.


----------



## midimaxi

yeah, i've tried everything by now... going to grab the new PSU tomorrow and see if it helps. can't believe i have to deal with this and possibly RMA this board...

one thing i haven't tried is to put CPU fan instead of water block (H80) that i have... maybe motherboard is thinking that there is no CPU fan installed, but it was working fine just a couple of hours ago...

thx for replying!


----------



## WickedTico

Finally a pic or two, please add me to the p8z68-v pro list


----------



## skyline385

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midimaxi*
> 
> yeah, i've tried everything by now... going to grab the new PSU tomorrow and see if it helps. can't believe i have to deal with this and possibly RMA this board...
> one thing i haven't tried is to put CPU fan instead of water block (H80) that i have... maybe motherboard is thinking that there is no CPU fan installed, but it was working fine just a couple of hours ago...
> 
> thx for replying!


If it thinks there is a no CPU fan, it clearly gives the error message during Boot-up. Also, the solution to this is to simply connect the Radiator fan to the CPU Fan slot. I own an H60 and the same had happened to me. But solution is quite simple. Try it as a last resort.....


----------



## csm725

You can disable the CPU Fan Error notifications in UEFI.


----------



## turrican9

Added the following:

*j_syk, P8P67 Deluxe Owner
holcombrm, P8Z68-V/GEN3 Owner
WickedTico, P8Z68-V PRO Owner*

*Stianby, you were added some time ago, check the list.*


----------



## skyline385

Hey turrican9

Add me here too....


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> Hey turrican9
> Add me here too....


Added!


----------



## Mtemtko

Meh.. I had an MSI p67 GD80, but then because of some ram recognizing issues with it, it got replaced by an p67 EVO, with the GD80 I could reach 4.6 ghz and 70-75 temps with around 1.295v on i5 2500k, whereas now with the EVO im getting 90-95c while playing BF3 with 4.0ghz and auto-voltage.. I tried reseating the heatsink, also removed old thermal paste and put in new.. nothing has changed.. this makes zero sense to me. I guess ill just remove AI suite because it keeps messing with my changes made in bios. Also how to remove the auto-voltage so it says still when on turbo?


----------



## Deano12345

Got a P8z68 Pro that should be here monday/tuesday and I'm ordering a 2600K on monday as well. Don't worry, I'll post loads of pictures


----------



## skyline385

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mtemtko*
> 
> Meh.. I had a MSI p67 GD80, but then because of some ram recognizing issues with it, it got replaced by an p67 EVO, with the GD80 I could reach 4.6 ghz and 70-75 temps with around 1.295v on i5 2500k, whereas now with the EVO im getting 90-95c while playing BF3 with 4.0ghz and auto-voltage.. I tried reseating the heatsink, also removed old thermal paste and put in new.. nothing has changed.. this makes zero sense to me. I guess ill just remove AI suite because it keeps messing with my changes made in bios. Also how to remove the auto-voltage so it says still when on turbo?


Check whether your TPU is off (It sometimes resets the changes in UEFI). Also disable Auto-Voltage in UEFI. It was giving 1.41V for 4.6Ghz i5-2500K which i am now running at 1.3V. Also, i dont understand what you mean in the end. If you want your CPU to permanently stay in Turbo mode, disable EPU in UEFI and change Windows Power Options to High performance. Then it wont downclock even while idle and maintain a constant voltage throughout.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> Yea, I looked at feautres and it looks nice for oc to 4.0ghz because it wont stress the board parts and i only use 1 graphic card. i guess ill still shop around
> im worried that the board wont be reliable and stuff


I'm sure it'll be reliable. Just do a lot of comparisons and you'll find what you need. Unfortunately I've been reading about a lot of problems with Gigabyte boards, but I believe they've worked out a lot of the problems now with bios updates. Even the ASUS boards had problems at first, but they seem to be fixed now also. One always takes a chance getting a bad board, it's just the nature of the beast. And usually it's not anyone's fault. These boards get shipped from overseas to the states in massive quantities and they get bashed about quite a bit. If there's a bad solder joint, or bad component on one it's bound to come lose and that usually explains a DOA board. Although it's been the policy of some distributors to sell open box returns and they look at it and say there's nothing wrong, but may have a bent pin in the CPU tray, etc; that they don't look at and re-sell the same bad board. Those are the places to stay away from. Always stick with a well known vendor that way if you have any problems in the first 30 days you can send it back for a new replacement. After all that one does get a good board and the reliability of that board to last & function a long time depends on the manufacture. Here's a thought....I was going to purchase a AsRock board then I read a bunch of reviews. Seems the way AsRock keeps costs down is to use a thinner layer board to mount the parts on. (That's just one thing I read over and over again). So right there instead of spending $130-150 on a board from them that had everything (including the kitchen sink on it) I chose to get the ASUS board because they still use as many layers on the boards to make it stronger even though it has a few less bells and whisle's (that I didn't really need anyway). Now (as you probably already know) AsRock is a company that formed as an off-shoot from ASUS. Guess some guys got together and said we can produce a board with more goodies on it and sell it cheaper than ASUS can. They did, but they cut corners that I believe will not make the board reliable through the years.

Morale of my story is to take some time and research the boards thoroughly after you've gotten it down to 2-3 boards your considering and read every review you can find on it. 99% of the time you'll end up with a very reliable board.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> Isnt 68 deg.C under Prime95 at full laod reasonable, i mean my i5 stays at 45 under idle and around 55 for normal general load. If possible can someone help with BLCK frequency / Multiplier combination so that i can acheive around 4.6 with slightly better temperatures


Oh yea, it's more than a reasonable temp at full load. I was just trying to think of a way to keep the temps down without making more adjustments. I see there's some more answers that you got (haven't read them yet) but maybe one will have the answer your looking for. Good luck!


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

Can i join the club for P8z68-v/gen3 pics are in sig


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> I noticed that in the manual too, I don't think it'll make a difference.


The way ASUS describes the way their RAM slots are is that if you use A1 & B1 you will not get dual channel. Dual channel is only available in A2 & B2. Don't actually know if this is true or not as I've not tried it. I just stuck my RAM in the A2 & B2 slots and in ADIA64 (and others) it came up as dual channel . Before you change it, it would be interesting if you would run CPU-Z or ADIA64 and see if it says Dual or not. Now you've all got me interested if ASUS is correct or not.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well. you were referring to SSD cache in that post, right?


No, I was referring to using a SSD as a cache mated to a hard drive under the Intel Rapid Storage Technology. Seems there's a lot of folks having trouble hooking this new 'technology' up and getting it to work. A few here have done it successfully (including me now). There was a lot of problems in not having the right driver for it too. Intel's latest IRST driver (10.8.---) straightens out a lot that was wrong and why it failed on a lot of boards. (Also some didn't even realize you needed the Z68 chip set to do this, they thought because it supported a I3-I5 or I7 it was available to them too.) There was a lot of bio's updates too that fixed things. And to top it all off it has to be installed in a certain order or it'll fail every time. I was writing to say that if you follow the Intel sequence (they have a new PDF about installation) don't use more than a 64GB SSD along with a HDD of 1.5tera bytes or less along with Intels latest IRST driver, it works and works well. And I just have it in the 'Enhanced' mode so far. There should be even more gains in the 'Maximized' mode. I'm just very impressed that one of the Intel technologies works like they say it's supposed too.







Lucid wasn't one of them (just an example.)


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midimaxi*
> 
> yeah, i've tried everything by now... going to grab the new PSU tomorrow and see if it helps. can't believe i have to deal with this and possibly RMA this board...
> one thing i haven't tried is to put CPU fan instead of water block (H80) that i have... maybe motherboard is thinking that there is no CPU fan installed, but it was working fine just a couple of hours ago...
> 
> thx for replying!


The H80 wouldn't cause that. Just plug the fan into the CPU fan slot and it'll work like it should with no error's. In fact the H60 comes with a 4 pin on the fan just for the CPU fan plug and the 3pin (coming off the pump) goes to any pwr fan (I use the chassis power fan plug for the pump). I would think that the H80 also comes with a 4 pin off the fan(s). Right?

Question, you said you pulled the RAM, but you didn't say if you have new RAM to replace it with. RAM would cause the system to act like this. But I'm more inclined to think it's the PSU. Try that (as you said) and let us know what happens....Good luck!


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

i remember that someone said turning of Marvell controller and disabling splash screen got rid of that. Thats if you not using that controller


----------



## lolvik

My turn!


----------



## dartuil

yes they advice to disable marvell to avoid bsod and double boot if i remember well


----------



## lolvik

Disableing the marvell-controller fixed my double boot at least.


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

good to hear that it fixed it


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> 
> 
> Guys, i just got my Corsair H60 Cooler and am getting these results with push-pull using Arctic Silver 5. Can anyone suggest me some possible optimizations ?? My comp runs 24/7 for 3-4 days at a stretch.


You've gotten plenty of good advice here on OCing etc and I don't want to take anything away from that however no one has mentioned your idle temps so I will. They are a bit high and should be in the mid to low 30c depending on you ambient temps vs the 42-46c reported in the screen shot. Unless you started Core temp after Prime95 had started I recommend you re-TIM and reset the CPU water block. Properly mounted I think you will see all temps fall a bit. GL


----------



## Danger72

Regarding the Corsair H80. Is it better to wipe the stock thermal compound and use Arctic Cooling or just leave the stock compound? I've got a tube of the Arctic Cooling MX-4 compound sitting around just in case I needed it. Haven't even opened the package yet. Currently idling at 24-29°C


----------



## Mieske666

Yes wipe it clean with alcohohol and use a drop of the artic stuff about the size of a rice. Not too much. In the middle of the cpu. It will spread out by itself under the pressure. Don't expect miracles day one give it a few days to totally spread. It's viscoce is pretty thick so it needs time to spread even.

Mieske


----------



## skyline385

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> You've gotten plenty of good advice here on OCing etc and I don't want to take anything away from that however no one has mentioned your idle temps so I will. They are a bit high and should be in the mid to low 30c depending on you ambient temps vs the 42-46c reported in the screen shot. Unless you started Core temp after Prime95 had started I recommend you re-TIM and reset the CPU water block. Properly mounted I think you will see all temps fall a bit. GL


yea that was because i was keeping it at a constant 4.62 GHz without any downclocking, so 42-46 is at 4.62Ghz with no load. I Changed it though, better to let it fall to1.6Ghz if i am gonna run it 24/7. Also the ambient temperature here is around 35, so cant expect better than that,

Thanks for the advice all


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> No, I was referring to using a SSD as a cache mated to a hard drive under the Intel Rapid Storage Technology. Seems there's a lot of folks having trouble hooking this new 'technology' up and getting it to work. A few here have done it successfully (including me now). There was a lot of problems in not having the right driver for it too. Intel's latest IRST driver (10.8.---) straightens out a lot that was wrong and why it failed on a lot of boards. (Also some didn't even realize you needed the Z68 chip set to do this, they thought because it supported a I3-I5 or I7 it was available to them too.) There was a lot of bio's updates too that fixed things. And to top it all off it has to be installed in a certain order or it'll fail every time. I was writing to say that if you follow the Intel sequence (they have a new PDF about installation) don't use more than a 64GB SSD along with a HDD of 1.5tera bytes or less along with Intels latest IRST driver, it works and works well. And I just have it in the 'Enhanced' mode so far. There should be even more gains in the 'Maximized' mode. I'm just very impressed that one of the Intel technologies works like they say it's supposed too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lucid wasn't one of them (just an example.)


You're giving me headaches, lol. Did you even read your mobo's manual?

YOU ARE REFERRING TO SSD CACHE. It is called "Intel Smart Response Technology". Please also read about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_Response_Technology . Thus the acronym ISRT.

That technology requires you to install Intel Rapid Storage Technology (IRST) in order to use it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Disableing the marvell-controller fixed my double boot at least.


What? What SSD are you using to have that fast bootup time?


----------



## csm725

Yeah.... what SSD? I get 13.119sec with my m4.


----------



## arcilux

I be joining. RAM won't be delivered til Monday so I can't get screenies, but I have the ASUS P8Z68 board in my rig


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Yeah.... what SSD? I get 13.119sec with my m4.


Wow, really? That's fast. In my laptop I get 25 secs. I haven't tried the M4 in my desktop though but I think it will be lower. Did you modify your startup programs as well?


----------



## TahoeDust

You can put me on the list. P8Z68 Deluxe


----------



## skyline385

Guys, can anyone tell me whether applying extra TIM has any adverse effects on cooling, because i kinda emptied almost half my tube of AS5







on my H60 cooling plate. Should i re-TIM it ????


----------



## TahoeDust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> Guys, can anyone tell me whether applying extra TIM has any adverse effects on cooling, because i kinda emptied almost half my tube of AS5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my H60 cooling plate. Should i re-TIM it ????


Yes. It can definitely have adverse effects on cooling. Clean up that mess with alcohol and reapply a rice size amount of TIM to the CPU heat spreader than install the H60.


----------



## SViper

Can i join to club?



BTW, using this platform impress me.. sow i sold my 1366 stuff..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> Guys, can anyone tell me whether applying extra TIM has any adverse effects on cooling, because i kinda emptied almost half my tube of AS5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my H60 cooling plate. Should i re-TIM it ????


Almost half?!!! Man, are you insane? You need an amount that is the size of the @ symbol on a standard keyboard.


----------



## skyline385

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Almost half?!!! Man, are you insane? You need an amount that is the size of the @ symbol on a standard keyboard.


Yea i know i went way overboard but my temps are fine i think (65 max @ 1.3V for 35 Ambient). Should i do it again coz temps seem fine ??


----------



## Mtemtko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> Check whether your TPU is off (It sometimes resets the changes in UEFI). Also disable Auto-Voltage in UEFI. It was giving 1.41V for 4.6Ghz i5-2500K which i am now running at 1.3V. Also, i dont understand what you mean in the end. If you want your CPU to permanently stay in Turbo mode, disable EPU in UEFI and change Windows Power Options to High performance. Then it wont downclock even while idle and maintain a constant voltage throughout.


Messed around abit and disabled the auto voltage, the temperatures are crazy high under prime at 4.4ghz, barely changes anything at all with 4ghz @1.16v..... As said before I was getting 1.295v 4.6gh 75-85c temps on prime95 with MSI p67 gd80 with the same cooler...


----------



## turrican9

Added the following:

*Crosby, P8P67 PRO Owner*

*XxVaptex467Xx, P8Z68-V/GEN3 Owner*

*lolvik, P8Z68 Deluxe /GEN3 Owner*

*arcilux, P8Z68-V Owner*

*TahoeDust, P8Z68 Deluxe Owner*

*SViper, P8Z68 Deluxe Owner*

Welcome!


----------



## skyline385

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mtemtko*
> 
> Messed around abit and disabled the auto voltage, the temperatures are crazy high under prime at 4.4ghz, barely changes anything at all with 4ghz @1.16v..... As said before I was getting 1.295v 4.6gh 75-85c temps on prime95 with MSI p67 gd80 with the same cooler...


Wow, its like Stock Cooling or even worse. You checked the TIM right ?? And whether its properly tightened cause it happened to me once....


----------



## Darylrese

In please with my P8Z68-V/GEN3


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> Yea i know i went way overboard but my temps are fine i think (65 max @ 1.3V for 35 Ambient). Should i do it again coz temps seem fine ??


If I were you I won't even think twice of re-doing your TIM







It would make your temps lower and of course that is better


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You're giving me headaches, lol. Did you even read your mobo's manual?
> YOU ARE REFERRING TO SSD CACHE. It is called "Intel Smart Response Technology". Please also read about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_Response_Technology . Thus the acronym ISRT.
> That technology requires you to install Intel Rapid Storage Technology (IRST) in order to use it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What? What SSD are you using to have that fast bootup time?


Ah ha! Now I have a headache...lol... Actually I think it was Intel that changed the wording to Intel Rapid Storage Technology and dropped the Intel Smart Response Technology. I will agree that the wikipedia has what you say it is, Intel Smart Response Technology, and the name before that was (pre-launch name) just "SSD Caching". I think they should have left well enough alone and kept it SSD Caching. How much easier is that? But NO!!! Intel has to have a long, fancy "technology" type name to make it look impressive, so they threw both the SRT & IRST in the mix to confuse everyone (not that I'm not already confused enough......) So, with my humble apologies I accept defeat and will now call it that thing that speeds up my hard drive....TTTSUMHD









On a lighter note I want my machine to boot in 7.55 seconds also. I thought I was doing fairly well with the "Thing that speeds up my hard drive_TTTSUMHD at 20 seconds (and that's just a cache...) That is quick!

Edit.... mobo manual?? What is that? I thought it was fire place kindling....


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danger72*
> 
> Regarding the Corsair H80. Is it better to wipe the stock thermal compound and use Arctic Cooling or just leave the stock compound? I've got a tube of the Arctic Cooling MX-4 compound sitting around just in case I needed it. Haven't even opened the package yet. Currently idling at 24-29°C


Speaking of this, I've read a few forums where they measured the performance of the H series water CPU coolers with the stuff that comes with it from the factory and a better thermal compound, such as Artic. The difference in all of them was about (or average) a half to one full degree lower temperature. So, seeing as it's an easy thing to take the unit off, clean the old stuff off with some Q-Tips and Isopropyl Alcohol I would say go for it. Remember when you put the water block back on the CPU to cross tighten the hold down screws. (In other words use a cris cross pattern, like when you tighten down lug nuts on a car wheel.) You'll get a more even distribution of pressure on the CPU and the compound will spread more evenly. (And for heavens sake don't use half the tube, just a small drop in the center of the CPU will do.)

Edit...Thought I'd add that my idling temps are 29-30*c. I have another fan coming (hopefully by tomorrow) and will be adding it to the H60 I have in a push/pull config. Right now I have the fan mounted inside the case before the radiator and it's pulling air through the case, radiator and then out. I don't feel this is enough air movement, hence buying the extra fan. Once installed I'll see what temps I getting and will post the differences (I'll run Prime or Intel's Burn test, with one fan, then the 2 fans and hopefully will see a good difference.)


----------



## Mercyflush64

I thought the club was dead and there were not going to be any new people added after the web site change. I would like to be added to the P8Z68-V section. Only photo I have right now is of my Sandy Stable club shot showing I hit 4.6ghz (Currently running 4.8ghz stable). Will add case phot later today after some added lighting.


----------



## midimaxi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midimaxi*
> 
> yeah, i've tried everything by now... going to grab the new PSU tomorrow and see if it helps. can't believe i have to deal with this and possibly RMA this board...
> one thing i haven't tried is to put CPU fan instead of water block (H80) that i have... maybe motherboard is thinking that there is no CPU fan installed, but it was working fine just a couple of hours ago...
> 
> thx for replying!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> Check this out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midimaxi*
> 
> Computer just died! Doesn't want to power up at all. I press 'power' button on the case and or on the board and after short 'hissing' sound from my speakers nothing happens, nothing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've unplugged the power cord, waited for 5 min, then the same thing.
> Only 'power' and 'reset' buttons are lit on the motherboard. Also there is a very short LED blink next to 'DRAM'. Tried removing RAM but with no luck.
> Computer was working fine earlier today with no problems at all.
> I'm completely lost since it doesn't even power up. Could it be PSU? Anyone heard such a thing? Any info is appreciated! Thx!


so just to wrap up this, the conclusion is: it was my PSU (Antec 850) that gave up on me. everything seems to be working now... thanks


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You're giving me headaches, lol. Did you even read your mobo's manual?
> YOU ARE REFERRING TO SSD CACHE. It is called "Intel Smart Response Technology". Please also read about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_Response_Technology . Thus the acronym ISRT.
> That technology requires you to install Intel Rapid Storage Technology (IRST) in order to use it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What? What SSD are you using to have that fast bootup time?


That may be partly my fault as I was misusing the IRST term myself.







Yes, in order to use SRT, you have to install IRST.

Argh. Acronyms.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> Guys, can anyone tell me whether applying extra TIM has any adverse effects on cooling, because i kinda emptied almost half my tube of AS5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my H60 cooling plate. Should i re-TIM it ????


Here's a Youtube video that graphically demonstrates TIM application methods and amounts.


----------



## Crosby

Hey Guys!

I'm new to this fourm and quite amateur. Thankfully there are people like yourselves that have done most of the work for me and who I can learn from. I recently upgraded to the 2500k and P8P67 Pro 3.1. I've read through these fourms (not the entire 500 pages) and checked some guides as well. Currently i've overclocked the chip to 4.5GHz and it seems stable enough, ran Prime overnight and no errors but did get a BSOD a few days ago while watching Skyrim... (might have been related to not reinstalling Afterburner though and my Gfx card probably overheated) Haven't had one for a few days. I have a couple of questions with my settings though, not sure if I should leave them be or tweak them as mine seem basic compared to other peoples.

So here are my settings, basically everything is set to default except:

Ai Overclock Tuner -XMP
BCLK/PEG Frequency - 100
By All Cores (Can Adjust In OS) - 45
CPU Voltage - Manual Mode
CPU Manual Voltage - 1.25v
DRAM Voltage - 1.5v
PLL - Disabled

Load Line - Auto
Phase Control - Standard
Duty Control - T Probe

From reading these fourms i'm wondering if I should make the following changes:

CPU Voltage - Offset
Offset - +0.020
Load Line - Ultra High
Phase Control - Extreme
Duty Control - Extreme

Currently my temps when running Prime 95 go up to about 67-71 Degrees.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> Guys, can anyone tell me whether applying extra TIM has any adverse effects on cooling, because i kinda emptied almost half my tube of AS5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my H60 cooling plate. Should i re-TIM it ????


You do realize that AS5 contains metal and is conductive? I hope that you didn't squeeze so much out that it bridges a circuit and fries your system.


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Yeah.... what SSD? I get 13.119sec with my m4.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What? What SSD are you using to have that fast bootup time?


Sorry, didnt see this till now ^^

I'm using a Corsair Performance Pro.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> That may be partly my fault as I was misusing the IRST term myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, in order to use SRT, you have to install IRST.
> Argh. Acronyms.


Actually, this is sorta confusing. Here are a couple of screenshots of IRST/SRT... and basically SRT is a function of IRST... or so it appears to me:


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crosby*
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> I'm new to this fourm and quite amateur. Thankfully there are people like yourselves that have done most of the work for me and who I can learn from. I recently upgraded to the 2500k and P8P67 Pro 3.1. I've read through these fourms (not the entire 500 pages) and checked some guides as well. Currently i've overclocked the chip to 4.5GHz and it seems stable enough, ran Prime overnight and no errors but did get a BSOD a few days ago while watching Skyrim... (might have been related to not reinstalling Afterburner though and my Gfx card probably overheated) Haven't had one for a few days. I have a couple of questions with my settings though, not sure if I should leave them be or tweak them as mine seem basic compared to other peoples.
> 
> So here are my settings, basically everything is set to default except:
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner -XMP
> BCLK/PEG Frequency - 100
> By All Cores (Can Adjust In OS) - 45
> CPU Voltage - Manual Mode
> CPU Manual Voltage - 1.25v
> DRAM Voltage - 1.5v
> PLL - Disabled
> 
> Load Line - Auto
> Phase Control - Standard
> Duty Control - T Probe
> 
> From reading these fourms i'm wondering if I should make the following changes:
> 
> CPU Voltage - Offset
> Offset - +0.020
> Load Line - Ultra High
> Phase Control - Extreme
> Duty Control - Extreme
> 
> Currently my temps when running Prime 95 go up to about 67-71 Degrees.


If you are 12 hrs Prime stable using max memory then I 'd say leave it be. It would be very important to isolate what caused your BSOD at this point before you proceed. The higher settings you suggest are a good place to start but I would add settting VRM Freq to 300-350 too, Understand the higher LLC, Phase and Duty controls will increase certain voltages which in turn increases heat and may not be necessary below 4.6. In there lies the rub generally when overclocking it's best to manually set when possible vs leaving auto especially voltages which tend to overvolted to serve the masses. For example it's known that Asus bios will overvolt VCCIO to 1.8v and many at or below 4.6 get away with 1.5 to 1.6v. Use search there are several post on this issue in these forums. Bottom line Asus makes it easy for most folks to OC easily but that doesn't translate to best practices in all cases. Auto settings tend to be higher than actually need if you have a good chip and it would appear you do, 1.25 vcore for a stable 4.6 OC is pretty good there are many who require more for the same. It's also important to understand what works for one may not work for all meaning every system is different. Now that you are on the OC bandwagon take a heavy dose of patients and learn what works best for your config. By all means experiment and in the end you will be rewarded with a highly efficient top performing rig.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Ah ha! Now I have a headache...lol... Actually I think it was Intel that changed the wording to Intel Rapid Storage Technology and dropped the Intel Smart Response Technology. I will agree that the wikipedia has what you say it is, Intel Smart Response Technology, and the name before that was (pre-launch name) just "SSD Caching". I think they should have left well enough alone and kept it SSD Caching. How much easier is that? But NO!!! Intel has to have a long, fancy "technology" type name to make it look impressive, so they threw both the SRT & IRST in the mix to confuse everyone (not that I'm not already confused enough......) So, with my humble apologies I accept defeat and will now call it that thing that speeds up my hard drive....TTTSUMHD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a lighter note I want my machine to boot in 7.55 seconds also. I thought I was doing fairly well with the "Thing that speeds up my hard drive_TTTSUMHD at 20 seconds (and that's just a cache...) That is quick!
> Edit.... mobo manual?? What is that? I thought it was fire place kindling....


ISRT was never dropped. ISRT is even newer than IRST.

Also, I want to ask a simple favor from you. Please refrain from double posting. Use the mutli-quote feature of this thred








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Sorry, didnt see this till now ^^
> I'm using a Corsair Performance Pro.


Wow, that is fast. What program do you use to measure bootup time? And did you tweak your system like disable startup program and such in order to have this kind of fast bootup? I have the Crucial M4 128GB and cannot boot this fast.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> Actually, this is sorta confusing. Here are a couple of screenshots of IRST/SRT... and basically SRT is a function of IRST... or so it appears to me:


Thanks for the picture.

@RCPilotJAE

Please see the picture for yourself if you do not want to believe me







lol.


----------



## turrican9

Added:

*Darylrese*, P8Z68-V/GEN3 Owner

*Mercyflush64*, P8Z68-V Owner

Welcome!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> That may be partly my fault as I was misusing the IRST term myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, in order to use SRT, you have to install IRST.
> Argh. Acronyms.


Perfectly okay. All I can say is it works!







However my complains are; since it was really made for a 20-30gb SSD, why are these drives just as expensive as their bigger brothers? Intel says it's a waste to use an SSD over 64gb (as that's what the software limits are anyway). The idea was to have a "cheap" way of speeding up your hard drive saves & loads for a reasonable price. They should sell a 20gb SSD for $40-$50 bucks and then it would be. But none does that. For the price of a bit under one hundred you can get a 60 or 64gb SSD. That's not keeping the cost down.

But that's not a bad complaint considering it works and works well. Now if they'd fix the Lucid Virtu.....


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

Whats wrong with lucid?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> ISRT was never dropped. ISRT is even newer than IRST.
> Also, I want to ask a simple favor from you. Please refrain from double posting. Use the mutli-quote feature of this thred
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, that is fast. What program do you use to measure bootup time? And did you tweak your system like disable startup program and such in order to have this kind of fast bootup? I have the Crucial M4 128GB and cannot boot this fast.
> Thanks for the picture.
> @RCPilotJAE
> Please see the picture for yourself if you do not want to believe me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.


Ah ha! Now I get it, the multi-quote. Of course I saw this after I already posted, but will do so in the future. Makes more sense and makes the board look better. (I'm an old man and my brain goes out to lunch a lot.)

So the ISRT wasn't dropped, it's newer! (Where would we be without Google in our lives?) Thanks.... And the last comment, I believe you. In fact I believe everyone here, doesn't make any sense to fib about things because when one gets caught he/she will never be believed again. It's like crying 'wolf'. (But I'll look at the picture because you took the time to put it up.)


----------



## am dew1

Is there any harm, other than using a little more power, in setting the Minimum Process State in Windows 7's Processor Power Management (PPM) to 75%, rather than the standard 5%? I like the way my system feels "faster" when doing non-CPU intensive things when set this way. I'm overclocked to 4.3 and with the PPM set to 75% and the system in an idle state, core #0 is at at 3.4 while cores# 1 thru 3 are at 1.6.

Thanks.


----------



## Deano12345

This arrived early, which would be great news, if I had my 2600K


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> 
> This arrived early, which would be great news, if I had my 2600K


Nice pic! I got lucky and got both of mine on the same day last week.


----------



## Mtemtko

I applied pressure on the heatsink while running prime95, the temps went from 90 to 70 right away, I shut down the whole thing, put out the heatsinks fan and tried to unscrew the bolts holding the cooler (ive done it before, dw) , they just won't move and I don't want to break anything, any ideas guys? the cooler is Arctic Cooling Freezer Xtreme Rev.2


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Wow, that is fast. What program do you use to measure bootup time? And did you tweak your system like disable startup program and such in order to have this kind of fast bootup? I have the Crucial M4 128GB and cannot boot this fast.


Hm, well, I'm using windows classic theme instead of aero.
Other than that it's not much. I even have a few start-up programs, like steam, spotify and afterburner.

Think I'll try a reboot with every start-up program shut off! I'll keep you updated.









EDIT;
Can't be bothered with a screen, but with some tweaking I got it down to 6.100 seconds, heh.
- And that's without disableing ESET, Steam and ActualMonitors.


----------



## holcombrm

Rig now in signature. Would still love to be added to the list.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Perfectly okay. All I can say is it works!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However my complains are; since it was really made for a 20-30gb SSD, why are these drives just as expensive as their bigger brothers? Intel says it's a waste to use an SSD over 64gb (as that's what the software limits are anyway). The idea was to have a "cheap" way of speeding up your hard drive saves & loads for a reasonable price. They should sell a 20gb SSD for $40-$50 bucks and then it would be. But none does that. For the price of a bit under one hundred you can get a 60 or 64gb SSD. That's not keeping the cost down.
> But that's not a bad complaint considering it works and works well. Now if they'd fix the Lucid Virtu.....


I think you are referencing the Intel 20GB SSD (larson creek) that goes for about the same price as the Corsair M4 64 GB SSD. The difference is SLC vs MLC. SLC being more desirable from certain perspectives, longevity being one of them. That being said, I've been running a MLC SSD for my OS/program drive (Intel X25M-80GB) for more than a year now. I'm not concerned about longevity.

Here's a current status report:


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> Nice pic! I got lucky and got both of mine on the same day last week.


I knew I wouldn't get both on the same day, was hoping to get the board tomorrow and the CPU on wednesday, now it looks like the CPU is gonna arrive thursday









What volts are you using through the CPU to get that clock BTW ?


----------



## Eaglesfan251

I didn't do an official overclock yet because I landed a big WU for folding. I just threw in some quick settings that would work, I think it's at 1.35v. I'm going to try for ~4.8GHz this weekend.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> I didn't do an official overclock yet because I landed a big WU for folding. I just threw in some quick settings that would work, I think it's at 1.35v. I'm going to try for ~4.8GHz this weekend.


Nice one, my OC'ing is going to have to wait a while though....Have to RMA my H100


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Nice one, my OC'ing is going to have to wait a while though....Have to RMA my H100


Damn that sucks, what's wrong with it?


----------



## atibbo69

Hey guys,

I have the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3

i5 2500k
xfx 5770
2x 4gb corsair vengeance
xfx 750pro psu
2tb western digital caviar green hdd
nzxt phantom

I just put this rig together today and everything looks good in the bios except when I try to boot windows I get the blue screen of death about 3 seconds into windows loading.
The hdd I'm using already has windows installed on it. I pulled it out of my old computer. This might be a problem?

The marvel connectors are the only ones that will recognize the drive. All the 6gb and 3gb intel sata connectors say no hard drive found.

I was going to try and re install windows on the drive but I realized my old dvd burner does not have sata, so I guess I have to buy a new one?









Any input appreciated.


----------



## Deano12345

The BSOD when loading windows is because the OS can't recognise what it's actually booting off, it can see a bootloader (which is why it will start to load) but it can't go any further, it's pretty common to happen when switching boards, it can even happen if you switch your SATA config from IDE (could be called compatibly mode too) ACHI. Your best bet is to re-install.

@eaglesfan : Theres a known issue with a particular batch of H100's that have rattles coming from the pump, mines one from the effected batch. Doesnt affect performance, just very annoying in a quiet system


----------



## atibbo69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> The BSOD when loading windows is because the OS can't recognise what it's actually booting off, it can see a bootloader (which is why it will start to load) but it can't go any further, it's pretty common to happen when switching boards, it can even happen if you switch your SATA config from IDE (could be called compatibly mode too) ACHI. Your best bet is to re-install.


Okay thank you, so is there anyway to get my old dvd burner to work with my new rig, or do I have to have a sata optical drive?


----------



## Eaglesfan251

And if you happen to be coming from an AMD board there will be driver issues. If that is in fact the case, boot into safe mode and uninstall AMD OverDrive. (This happened to me)

Yes, you need SATA.


----------



## atibbo69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> And if you happen to be coming from an AMD board there will be driver issues. If that is in fact the case, boot into safe mode and uninstall AMD OverDrive. (This happened to me)
> Yes, you need SATA.


Yeah I'm just going to re install windows.. Soon as mom goes to bed I'm going to steal her dvd sata drive from her computer and install windows lol...


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Yeah I'm just going to re install windows.. Soon as mom goes to bed I'm going to steal her dvd sata drive from her computer and install windows lol...


Good idea hahah.

Going to buy a NAS tomorrow I reckon, been meaning to get one for a while now and by storing my data (read : crap) on that, I can fit more games on my F3's


----------



## wongwarren

Add me


----------



## skyline385

Guys, Is there any need for increasing the CPU Current Capability at overclocks around 4.5-4.7 GHz . Also, if current is increased, then temperatures should rise as well, ryt? Does anyone here use the feature maxed out at 140%.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> Guys, Is there any need for increasing the CPU Current Capability at overclocks around 4.5-4.7 GHz . Also, if current is increased, then temperatures should rise as well, ryt? Does anyone here use the feature maxed out at 140%.


I use 140% at 4.8-5.0 and need it for stability however the heat and voltage required for my proc means I only use it for benching. For 4.6 I only need 130% voltages and temps are much more reasonable for 24/7. That said it all depends on what Vcore you need at those clocks. So answer to 1st Q = usually for stability 2nd Q = yes temps will rise 3rd Q = Yes for my proc 4.8^ YMMV

For me Stability = 12 hrs zero errors of Prime95 max memory and 20 passes IBT with temps below 80c (prefer lower) at 100% load.


----------



## Catscratch

Hey guys, I switched to Intel and went for the p8p67 EVO. Trying to figure out the system quirks, the system is running stock atm.

Quick info, if anyone wonders what that extra heatsink below cpu does on EVO and Deluxe, interestingly enough, it's the most warm heatsink on the board as far as i can sense with my hand


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> Whats wrong with lucid?


I (personally) didn't like it. The graphics where 'so-so, or just OK (before switching to a separate graphics card.) Regular working screens (IE: excel or word) are fine but as soon as you put a game on it will switch to the graphics card, but why bother having it go back and forth? I can't see the benefit in it. (Other than saving a penny in electricity. And that would take a long time to even save that penny.) So as far as what's wrong with it is I guess I thought it would be a worthwhile thing, but I just can't see the benefit in it. Unless I'm missing something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> I think you are referencing the Intel 20GB SSD (larson creek) that goes for about the same price as the Corsair M4 64 GB SSD. The difference is SLC vs MLC. SLC being more desirable from certain perspectives, longevity being one of them. That being said, I've been running a MLC SSD for my OS/program drive (Intel X25M-80GB) for more than a year now. I'm not concerned about longevity.
> Here's a current status report:


Yes, you are right. I didn't realize the one was a SLC. The SLC drives are more expensive vs the MLC. I looked all over for a cheap SLC and couldn't find one, but as far as the MLC drives go I believe they're perfecting them more and more each day and as you said, as far as reliability and longevity is concerned, it's not a concern. If these drives just hit the market I'd be worried, but not now. Seems to me the biggest fault with these drives is there's a ton of them that haven't been sold yet and they all have the oldest firmware on them. Most folks will buy them and say they're not working properly, swear at it a bit then send it back, when all it needs is the newer firmware. There's a lot of un-educated computer users out there. (And that's why I like these forums, you learn something new each day and you keep informed.) Have to ask, if yours is an 80 gig, and the IRST can use only 64, does the other 20 gigs go wasted (or did you partition the drive)? One last question, did the software you used for your picture come from Intel with the drive, or can I get it on their web site? I have 'Hard Disk Sentinel' but I don't like to keep it running 24/7, uses to many resources. The Intel one looks to be smaller and probably doesn't use so many resources.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> i5 2500k
> xfx 5770
> 2x 4gb corsair vengeance
> xfx 750pro psu
> 2tb western digital caviar green hdd
> nzxt phantom
> I just put this rig together today and everything looks good in the bios except when I try to boot windows I get the blue screen of death about 3 seconds into windows loading.
> The hdd I'm using already has windows installed on it. I pulled it out of my old computer. This might be a problem?
> The marvel connectors are the only ones that will recognize the drive. All the 6gb and 3gb intel sata connectors say no hard drive found.
> I was going to try and re install windows on the drive but I realized my old dvd burner does not have sata, so I guess I have to buy a new one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any input appreciated.


I see you have the answer, but yes, you have to reinstall windows.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Yeah I'm just going to re install windows.. Soon as mom goes to bed I'm going to steal her dvd sata drive from her computer and install windows lol...


You got the right answer! "Borrow" the SATA DvD drive from mom's computer, install windows then put her drive back. Good plan. But seriously, get yourself a new drive for your build. Check around and you'll find quality burners for $18. Eighteen bucks is not hard to swallow. Some even have free shiping (but you'll wait a week or more as they use the slowest possible snails to deliver it with. It's worth the extra few bucks to get it there in 3 days. Let us know how you make out. (Once windows is installed then get online and get a zillion updates...lol...) At last count I got 96 new updates after installing windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Hm, well, I'm using windows classic theme instead of aero.
> Other than that it's not much. I even have a few start-up programs, like steam, spotify and afterburner.
> Think I'll try a reboot with every start-up program shut off! I'll keep you updated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT;
> Can't be bothered with a screen, but with some tweaking I got it down to 6.100 seconds, heh.
> - And that's without disableing ESET, Steam and ActualMonitors.


Oh ok. How do you exactly and what do you use to measure your bootup time?


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. How do you exactly and what do you use to measure your bootup time?


I believe he is using Windows Boot Timer

http://www.planetsoft.org/

My SSD system boots in 17 seconds according to this utility.


----------



## incurablegeek

Background: My post on the http://www.overclock.net/t/947485/official-asus-maximus-iv-extreme-owners-club/1490#post_16152877
Quote:


> Making a decision:
> 
> 1) For my needs (no video editing, etc.) the i5-2500K seems to be the best bang for the buck
> 
> 2) Though a very well-respected friend (respected by me and super respected on OCN) thought the P8P67 PRO would be a better (cost saving) choice over the ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z LGA 1155 Intel Z68 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131760), the P8P67 Pro sure gets some skanky reviews.
> 
> Lingering question: One reviewer criticized the Maximus IV for its SATA orientation, saying it was quite awkward. I only buy Cooler Master HAF 932 cases, so I should not run out of room in my case but still ....
> 
> You all may have noticed that my chosen moniker is IncurableGeek. Well, to be completely honest, I do have some severe psychological problems in my always wanting bigger, faster and better. In short, I am a real tech junkie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that in mind, then, as well as my desire to be cost-effective, do you think the i5-2500K and the ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z LGA 1155 Intel Z68 are my two best choices.
> 
> Also, can I get by for the time being with CORSAIR XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 for a while?
> 
> SPARC_PWR, your recommendation of the 2500K over the 2600K makes a whole lotta sense. Thanks. Please understand that I have been out of the Intel world for some time now and as a result don't "speak the language too well.


Question: Do you (experienced) users of the P8P67 board agree with my close friend (reliable, trusted and very knowledgeable) that I have doggie poop for brains in wasting my money on the Maximus and should buy the P8P67 instead??

If you do indeed think there is no cost benefit in purchasing the Maximus (hellish expensive), which version of the P8P67 would you recommend?

(Please note: Although I purchased Intel exclusively from 1991-2002, I jumped ship to AMD because I thought I would be getting more bang for the buck. However, when AMD laid a rotten egg with its highly touted Bulldozer chip (overestimated the transistor count by 800 million!!!), I decided to return to Intel. As a result, I no longer have the vocabulary or the background to ask intelligent questions yet. So please forgive the Forest Gump newbie feeling in my above question.


----------



## Deano12345

You'll be fine with 8GB of RAM (for now







) and your friend is probably right. The Extreme is an awesome motherboard but with these SB CPU's there doesnt seem to be a huge amount of extra performance to be gained by going for a high end motherboard (for most people). As for recommendations on which P8 series board, why not go with one of the newer P8Z68 boards, the deluxe or pro versions would be my choice (and was







)


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. How do you exactly and what do you use to measure your bootup time?


Oh, right.
My bad. I'm using Windows Boot Timer, yes.

I'll give you a cookie if you beat my 6.1sec!


----------



## incurablegeek

Thanks Deano12345.

Re:
Quote:


> You'll be fine with 8GB of RAM (for now tongue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I'm accustomed to 16 GB of RAM but think I can get by with 8 for awhile

I would like you all to know that I am borderline suicidal, reading reviews and trying to determine which of these boards is "right". Not a criticism of Intel, but I never had this problem deciding on my AMD boards.









My needs:

1) No gaming
2) No graphics-intensive editing
3) Must run 2 28 inch and 1 22 inch monitors with my _Sapphire Radeon HD 5770 1 GB DDR5 2DVI/HDMI/DisplayPort PCI-Express Video Card 100283-3L_
4) Usually run 8-10 1 TB WD HDD's so lots of SATA ports a plus
5) Have 850 watt Seasonic PSU
6) Quality sound card to drive a 5-speaker system
7) Use only Corsair RAM and Noctua NH-D14 air cooling in CoolerMaster HAF-932 cases
8) Not an insane OC'r









9) Will use Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz

Now, ASUS must give the following (too many choices) just to befuddle simple-minded people like me: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/Intel_Z68

Trust me, I have read tons of reviews but am presently more lost and confused than ever!

*Please Help Me! I've Fallen and I Can't Get Up!*


----------



## Deano12345

The P/Z chipsets from my view, dont seem to support a large number of SATA ports, 8 seems to be about the average, usually

2xSATA 3 + 4x SATA 2 from the chipset
2xSATA 3 on a 3rd party chipset.

If you need more, you could always add in a card with more SATA ports on it

You can run a screen off the motherboard on the Z68 chipset if you so wished, and connect the other two to your GPU.

P8Z68 V-PRO has PCI and PCIE x1 slots for sound cards. Should suit you perfectly !


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Trust me, I have read tons of reviews but am presently more lost and confused than ever!
> *Please Help Me! I've Fallen and I Can't Get Up!*


I'm by no means an expert on this, but we are in almost the same boat. For my needs I've pretty much decided on the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0. But am kind of waiting on an open box deal. I've about changed my mind on the cpu though. Was thinking I7 2600k but have been reading about how the I5 2500k compares and am kind of leaning that way. I think a sale on one or the other will make up my mind for me. I do play around with video editing and some lite cad work, but having come from a E6700 just a few short months ago, it doesn't take much to impress me....

EDIT:
Are you using Eyefinity at all? Triple monitors and sometimes eyefinity has become a must for me at this point.


----------



## lolvik

I'm using 16gigs of RAM btw.
Only reason I have it is the fact that the prices are amazing these days.

Don't think I've ever used more than 5gigs or so at once.
Using 2.5gig as we speak, with windows 7 and a game + 10 panes in Firefox running.

And I was also playing around with the thought of the Maximus, but I went for the Deluxe due to the high amount of crap ratings on the Maximus-board @ Newegg, while the Deluxe has 98% 5 Stars or so.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> I'm using 16gigs of RAM btw.
> Only reason I have it is the fact that the prices are amazing these days.


Exactly, RAM is so cheap, why not have far too much. This is overclock.net after all.

The price is the reason I'm going for 32GB


----------



## Crosby

Hey Guys,

Just wanted your thoughts on quality of sound from P8p67-Pro onboard Realtek 892? Is it worth using a dedicated sound card with these boards or are the savings (extra work for the board) and quality difference minimal? I currently have an XiFi Xtremegamer card and was actually thinking of remving it and just using onboard... basically because I'm also trying to run Mac OSX on a seperate partition which does not support the XiFi but will support realtek 892.

I know this may be slightly off topic, but another great thing about the P8P67-Pro is because it is Mac Osx Lion friendly which I use for work.


----------



## incurablegeek

GeeWhiz, there is just not enough aspirin in the world sometimes!









It looks like a choice between:

1) ASUS P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS (*$269.99*: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131791&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo)

2) *ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS* (*$209.99*: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131790&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-RSSDailyDeals-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=4003003&SID=7e1lrb44v7zj)

Having read through and compared the specs for both the Deluxe and the Pro, I can honestly say that I see no difference in the boards - except for the price!

mathelm, thanks for revealing my ignorance on yet another subject.








Quote:


> EDIT:
> Are you using Eyefinity at all? Triple monitors and sometimes eyefinity has become a must for me at this point.


I haven't a clue what Eyefinity is, though I do know my video card (Sapphire Radeon HD 5770: http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Radeon-DisplayPort-PCI-Express-100283-3L/dp/B0035K6H2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326242740&sr=8-1) will support all 3 monitors (at least I think so) - and for screen/monitor switching I use Crystal Desktop.

Suggestions, anyone??


----------



## mathelm

Basically, eyefinity turns your 2,3-6 monitors into one screen. Unlike extended desktops which are each say 1920x1080, 2 monitors in eyefinity would be 3840x1080 and 3 would be 5940x1080 (minus the correction for the bezels between the screens).



EDIT:
In your case, like mine, you'll need a "active" displayport adapter ([email protected]) to make it work with 3 monitors, or one of your monitors needs to have a displayport unput (which most don't)...

btw, I couldn't find the diff between the deluxe and the pro either. I do know newegg had the pro for $189 openbox a couple weeks ago...

wait, does the deluxe have 2 network inputs?


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crosby*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> Just wanted your thoughts on quality of sound from P8p67-Pro onboard Realtek 892? Is it worth using a dedicated sound card with these boards or are the savings (extra work for the board) and quality difference minimal? I currently have an XiFi Xtremegamer card and was actually thinking of remving it and just using onboard... basically because I'm also trying to run Mac OSX on a seperate partition which does not support the XiFi but will support realtek 892.
> I know this may be slightly off topic, but another great thing about the P8P67-Pro is because it is Mac Osx Lion friendly which I use for work.


I am happy with the Realtek ALC892 onboard audio on my P8Z68V-Pro/GEN3 board. I don't do any critical listening but I do have my stereo attached to the rear output and it sounds quite good. I have seen some reviews comparing the Realtek ALC892 to other onboard audio and the Realtek always came up short but unless you're really doing critical listening on a good audio system, I doubt that you would hear the difference.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Yes, you are right. I didn't realize the one was a SLC. The SLC drives are more expensive vs the MLC. I looked all over for a cheap SLC and couldn't find one, but as far as the MLC drives go I believe they're perfecting them more and more each day and as you said, as far as reliability and longevity is concerned, it's not a concern. If these drives just hit the market I'd be worried, but not now. Seems to me the biggest fault with these drives is there's a ton of them that haven't been sold yet and they all have the oldest firmware on them. Most folks will buy them and say they're not working properly, swear at it a bit then send it back, when all it needs is the newer firmware. There's a lot of un-educated computer users out there. (And that's why I like these forums, you learn something new each day and you keep informed.) Have to ask, if yours is an 80 gig, and the IRST can use only 64, does the other 20 gigs go wasted (or did you partition the drive)? One last question, did the software you used for your picture come from Intel with the drive, or can I get it on their web site? I have 'Hard Disk Sentinel' but I don't like to keep it running 24/7, uses to many resources. The Intel one looks to be smaller and probably doesn't use so many resources.


I probably confused you. I have referred to more than one system in my posts here. I built a SB for myself using my old gear - case, psu, Intel X25-M 80GB SSD (with Win 7x64 already installed) and several existing mechanical HDs. I replaced the old Conroe system... mobo, cpu, hsf, and ram with the new SB gear (P8Z68V Pro, 2500k, CMA Hyper 212+ with dual fans, and 16 GB DDR3-1600 ram. This is running in AHCI mode, not raid. I did not have to reinstall Win7, but ideally I would have. Still, I've had very few issues with this setup and doubt it would be worth the time to do a re-install. Well, the OS reinstall would be relatively painless, but the program installs and tweaks would take f o r e v e r. I use the SSD for my OS and programs drive.

I then built a new PC for my MIL... new case, new psu, new everything except monitor, KB and mouse. It has a P8Z68V, 2400 cpu, 16GB DDR3-1333 ram, and CMA Hyper 212+ with dual fans with Win7x64. I installed a Corsair M4 64GB SSD for the cache drive mated to a 1 TB Hitachi drive with an additional 1TB drive, a single optical drive, and a media reader. This is configured as RAID and I setup the acceleration as enhanced, per the earlier screen shots about IRST and SRT. This system truly flies and runs cooler than my system. I'm almost jealous.









The reason I used the SSD as a cache drive was for performance purposes. I would have used a larger SSD for an OS and program drive for her, but the price of such a large SSD would not have been cost effective. My MIL would not know or care to be selective about keeping d/ls and misc files off the SSD. So I figured a large mechanical drive boosted by SRT would be the best compromise between performance and not worrying about where files get d/l to. If that makes sense.

So you can see that in that application, SRT uses the entire 64GB drive.

The pic you refer to was a screen shot of the Intel SSB toolbox. Here's a shot of the full window so you can see what it is:









I use FastStone Capture v5.3 for the screen shot and IMGUR for the pic hosting.


----------



## Deano12345

Deluxe has beefier power circuitry (I think) a Realtek gigabit ethernet port in addition to the Intel one and comes with a front panel 3.5" USB 3 'box'. IMO, not worth the extra money over the Pro/V-Pro

Also, guys, is it worth swapping out the TIM on the board, or does this mobo run cool enough ?


----------



## lolvik

Havent noticed much heat.
- Havent been touching it all too much either tho.


----------



## Stianby

No temperature issues here either...
But go easy on the cost/value differentials. It also comes down to preference. I went for the D'luxe to be all the more ready for 22nm, PCIe 3.0 and all . . .


----------



## Deano12345

Could have sworn I posted a reply. Stupid phone. Both the deluxe and pro are available in gen.3 from what I know. It completely comes down to your preference really !

And good to hear about the lack of temp issues, I might let him change the TIM on my graphics card while I get the new parts installed otherwise he'll hover around me hahah


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. How do you exactly and what do you use to measure your bootup time?


A stopwatch....(just being sarcastic.....) ((but not a bad idea, depends on where you start the watch from, I'd say as soon as you press the power button)) (((and I'm still being sarcastic, a bit)))....sorry...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incurablegeek*
> 
> Background: My post on the http://www.overclock.net/t/947485/official-asus-maximus-iv-extreme-owners-club/1490#post_16152877
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Making a decision:
> 1) For my needs (no video editing, etc.) the i5-2500K seems to be the best bang for the buck
> 2) Though a very well-respected friend (respected by me and super respected on OCN) thought the P8P67 PRO would be a better (cost saving) choice over the ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z LGA 1155 Intel Z68 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131760), the P8P67 Pro sure gets some skanky reviews.
> Lingering question: One reviewer criticized the Maximus IV for its SATA orientation, saying it was quite awkward. I only buy Cooler Master HAF 932 cases, so I should not run out of room in my case but still ....
> You all may have noticed that my chosen moniker is IncurableGeek. Well, to be completely honest, I do have some severe psychological problems in my always wanting bigger, faster and better. In short, I am a real tech junkie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that in mind, then, as well as my desire to be cost-effective, do you think the i5-2500K and the ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z LGA 1155 Intel Z68 are my two best choices.
> Also, can I get by for the time being with CORSAIR XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 for a while?
> SPARC_PWR, your recommendation of the 2500K over the 2600K makes a whole lotta sense. Thanks. Please understand that I have been out of the Intel world for some time now and as a result don't "speak the language too well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question: Do you (experienced) users of the P8P67 board agree with my close friend (reliable, trusted and very knowledgeable) that I have doggie poop for brains in wasting my money on the Maximus and should buy the P8P67 instead??
> If you do indeed think there is no cost benefit in purchasing the Maximus (hellish expensive), which version of the P8P67 would you recommend?
> (Please note: Although I purchased Intel exclusively from 1991-2002, I jumped ship to AMD because I thought I would be getting more bang for the buck. However, when AMD laid a rotten egg with its highly touted Bulldozer chip (overestimated the transistor count by 800 million!!!), I decided to return to Intel. As a result, I no longer have the vocabulary or the background to ask intelligent questions yet. So please forgive the Forest Gump newbie feeling in my above question.
Click to expand...

So welcome back to Intel (I like the Intel better than AMD for the reason you pointed out). I just wanted to say the I5 2500k is just as good a buy as the I7 (in my opinion) and why the heck I didn't spend the extra 30 bucks and get the i5 2500k over the i5 2400 is beyond me (I could have squeaked out 30 bucks more on my budget...oh well, now I have an excuse to upgrade to the i7 in the future....) And don't worry about being a tech junkie, I think we all are here. It's just a matter of who's got more money for more outrageous toys....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Deluxe has beefier power circuitry (I think) a Realtek gigabit ethernet port in addition to the Intel one and comes with a front panel 3.5" USB 3 'box'. IMO, not worth the extra money over the Pro/V-Pro
> Also, guys, is it worth swapping out the TIM on the board, or does this mobo run cool enough ?


Not worth going to the bother of changing the TIM. It's not going to gain you more than a hair of difference that will probably go unnoticed, anyway.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Speedlever:

Instead of the 'quote', thought I'd save some board space by just replying. Anyway, yes, it all makes a lot more sense to me now. I'm not confused anymore...lol... Thanks, and yes, it really does make more sense now. Also, thanks for the link to the Intel SSB Toolbox, interesting. Wish they made something like that for non-Intel SSD's. All I have to depend on is the Intel Rapid Storage Tech software. Use Faststone (v6.9) myself. Always thought it was one of the best screen dumps out there (and I've tried a lot of them, they just don't compare).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Oh, right.
> My bad. I'm using Windows Boot Timer, yes.
> I'll give you a cookie if you beat my 6.1sec!


Lol. So you got a golden Crucial M4?

EDIT: I just used that software now and I got 11.372 seconds with my LAPTOP, lol. When my second Crucial M4 arrives, we will see what my desktop can do to beat your score, hehe. Earlier, I was using the "Restart-Time" VBScript in measuring my boot time which is why I was so amazed with your scores. How does Windows Boot Timer measure anyway?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> A stopwatch....(just being sarcastic.....) ((but not a bad idea, depends on where you start the watch from, I'd say as soon as you press the power button)) (((and I'm still being sarcastic, a bit)))....sorry...
> So welcome back to Intel (I like the Intel better than AMD for the reason you pointed out). I just wanted to say the I5 2500k is just as good a buy as the I7 (in my opinion) and why the heck I didn't spend the extra 30 bucks and get the i5 2500k over the i5 2400 is beyond me (I could have squeaked out 30 bucks more on my budget...oh well, now I have an excuse to upgrade to the i7 in the future....) And don't worry about being a tech junkie, I think we all are here. It's just a matter of who's got more money for more outrageous toys....
> Not worth going to the bother of changing the TIM. It's not going to gain you more than a hair of difference that will probably go unnoticed, anyway.


Why be sarcastic?

You use multiquote and then followed by a double post again?


----------



## atibbo69

Hey guys, question,

Kind of a noob when it comes to setting up multiple hard drives..

I have the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3

I have 2 hard drives and I want one to run windows and the other I wanna be able to access through windows just to store movies, music and such. Like drag and drop into the 2nd hard drive kinda thing if possible.

I tired to mess with the bios settings but couldn't get the second hard drive to show up in windows.

Any help much appreciated.


----------



## aldesso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Hey guys, question,
> Kind of a noob when it comes to setting up multiple hard drives..
> I have the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> I have 2 hard drives and I want one to run windows and the other I wanna be able to access through windows just to store movies, music and such. Like drag and drop into the 2nd hard drive kinda thing if possible.
> I tired to mess with the bios settings but couldn't get the second hard drive to show up in windows.
> Any help much appreciated.


You shouldn't have to mess with the BIOS... it should recognize it no problem. How old is your HDD?


----------



## acowboy

I do have a question..are these temps ok..
PS...I love this board..


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Hey guys, question,
> Kind of a noob when it comes to setting up multiple hard drives..
> I have the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> I have 2 hard drives and I want one to run windows and the other I wanna be able to access through windows just to store movies, music and such. Like drag and drop into the 2nd hard drive kinda thing if possible.
> I tired to mess with the bios settings but couldn't get the second hard drive to show up in windows.
> Any help much appreciated.


Is the 2nd drive drive formatted? Does the drive show up on the SATA Configuration screen in BIOS?


----------



## Danger72

If its not showing up, it needs to be initialized and formatted.

See here: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/22069.aspx

and follow the instructions


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acowboy*
> 
> I do have a question..are these temps ok..


They are perfectly fine temps !


----------



## acowboy

Thank you for the reply.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Has anyone had issues with realtek onboard saying you have disconnected a device when you havent. Happens to me wether something is plugged in or not. If it happened when it wasnt plugged in and or had issues getting something to work when i plugged something in I would think it was the damaged port problem ASUS had on laptops but its not like that.

Has been going on ever since the first time I used it. Read around seemed like some driver versions are a problem or something. I updated to the latest cant be sure but I think it got worse which is a good sign.


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol. So you got a golden Crucial M4?


Nah
Using a Corsair Performance Pro


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Hey guys, question,
> Kind of a noob when it comes to setting up multiple hard drives..
> I have the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> I have 2 hard drives and I want one to run windows and the other I wanna be able to access through windows just to store movies, music and such. Like drag and drop into the 2nd hard drive kinda thing if possible.
> I tired to mess with the bios settings but couldn't get the second hard drive to show up in windows.
> Any help much appreciated.


Right click computer, then go to manage, disk management then you can format the new drive and assign a drive letter.


----------



## ranviper

Count me in! I have a p8p67 rev 3.0! I can take a CPU-Z screenshot of the mainboard or what have you if you need. =)


----------



## Crosby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If you are 12 hrs Prime stable using max memory then I 'd say leave it be. It would be very important to isolate what caused your BSOD at this point before you proceed. The higher settings you suggest are a good place to start but I would add settting VRM Freq to 300-350 too, Understand the higher LLC, Phase and Duty controls will increase certain voltages which in turn increases heat and may not be necessary below 4.6. In there lies the rub generally when overclocking it's best to manually set when possible vs leaving auto especially voltages which tend to overvolted to serve the masses. For example it's known that Asus bios will overvolt VCCIO to 1.8v and many at or below 4.6 get away with 1.5 to 1.6v. Use search there are several post on this issue in these forums. Bottom line Asus makes it easy for most folks to OC easily but that doesn't translate to best practices in all cases. Auto settings tend to be higher than actually need if you have a good chip and it would appear you do, 1.25 vcore for a stable 4.6 OC is pretty good there are many who require more for the same. It's also important to understand what works for one may not work for all meaning every system is different. Now that you are on the OC bandwagon take a heavy dose of patients and learn what works best for your config. By all means experiment and in the end you will be rewarded with a highly efficient top performing rig.


Hey Thanks for the tips. I forgot to mention that VRM Freq is currently set to 350 as well. Considering my setup is already stable I'm not sure higher LLC, Phase and Duty will give me any better rests and may just increase temps if I understand you correctly, I'll hold off on that unless there is a reason to increase. I am a bit confused when you speak of VCCIO as I know in my bios it is set to auto but beside that it shows a value of 1.050V, is this just an idle value that will increase under strain.. just curious a syou mention VCCIO on auto is usually about 1.8. Would using XMP have any affect on this value when set to auto?

Another thing I am confused about is how to set Offset correctly. It is my understanding is that Offset is basically a threshold so your Vcore will stay within that range, allowing it to decrease when the CPU is not under strain and therefore lowering temps compared to Vcore being at a fixed rate (1.250 in my case) and always using that voltage whether the CPU needs it or not. Let me know if I am way off here. Where I am confused is how to come up with your offset value. I thought I read in another fourm(which I can't seem to find again) that you would determine your starting offset value by subtracting your Overclocked VID and subtracting your Stock VID and use that as your offset value and tweak from there. I do not understand if you should be gathering these values when at idle or load. What I do know is that I seem to be stable at 1.250 manual voltage and when using offset of +0.020 it would increase my voltage over 1.250 and tempertures would increase. I'm assuming I should be able to lower the offset then by .005 to find the sweet spot. I dunno, the more I try and explain it the more I get confused. Could someone explain simply which value I should be using such as VID from stock Vcore and OC Vcore and whether it shoud be at idle or under strain. And once I find this should I subtract or what? Or should I just be happy with what I have?

When Overclocked using manual Voltage of 1.250 my idle Vid is .9957 and under load Vid is 1.3761. I think I may be confusing the VID with Vcore.... I need to do more reading.. any clarification would help and maybe a starting point.

One last question here if you haven't already skipped this post lol.. Does using Prime 95 blend test suffice for Overclock stability?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crosby*
> 
> See below.


1.} VCCIO on auto is usually about 1.8. Would using XMP have any affect on this value when set to auto?

Set the VCCIO on auto is usually about 1.8 setting, to 1.5 and leave it and no, it wouldn't affect that setting as it's automatically set independently and I noticed it's always 1.8. Anything under 1.5 will result in my chip locking up on me and not even booting up. 1.5 and everything is hunky dory.

The lowering of this setting essentially gets you a little more power because it lowers your power consumption as a total for the chip. This is how intel designed these things to throttle them selves back. Now that's not to say that you would actually benefit from this until a higher clock setting though it will lower temps a little I'm sure, maybe 2c, maybe.

2. I think







. }

Another thing I am confused about is how to set Offset correctly. It is my understanding is that Offset is basically a threshold so your Vcore will stay within that range, allowing it to decrease when the CPU is not under strain and therefore lowering temps compared to Vcore being at a fixed rate (1.250 in my case) and always using that voltage whether the CPU needs it or not. Let me know if I am way off here. Where I am confused is how to come up with your offset value. I thought I read in another fourm(which I can't seem to find again) that you would determine your starting offset value by subtracting your Overclocked VID and subtracting your Stock VID and use that as your offset value and tweak from there. I do not understand if you should be gathering these values when at idle or load.

What I do know is that I seem to be stable at 1.250 manual voltage and when using offset of +0.020 it would increase my voltage over 1.250 and tempertures would increase. I'm assuming I should be able to lower the offset then by .005 to find the sweet spot. I dunno, the more I try and explain it the more I get confused. Could someone explain simply which value I should be using such as VID from stock Vcore and OC Vcore and whether it shoud be at idle or under strain. And once I find this should I subtract or what? Or should I just be happy with what I have?

You are correct it lets your voltage go back down instead of it staying pegged at 1.25v all the time. I figured out on my own that offset is best to use no matter what people might say. I managed 5.5GHz using it so I think I can safely this.

It has different levels of strength you can use essentially via the LLC strength setting and the off set value combined. The lower setting you use the lower the voltage increments will be for any given value you decide to use. So say you use .020 and set LLC to low. It will only give you say "example here" 1.25v under load.

Set LLC to Medium and keep the .same 020 setting and you will see that now you're getting say, 1.3v under load.

I also noticed that once you start honing down your perfect lowest voltage core possible that it's best to use the medium setting instead of the say extreme setting like I see allot of people stating over and over again around on the net. The reason I say this is because at the medium setting you have more control over the voltage in smaller increments. As far as I could tell it didn't matter if I had to crank it up to say .230 using the LLC set to low as I was stable in windows just the same and at the same voltage I needed to be stable but I went up to medium and honed it in there to not see that red any more lol.

Ignore the VID thing yes it is the voltage core that is all. It's just terminology that's all.

Deep breath,.







Hope that helps your brain cool down a little. I wish some one would have brain dumped me like that too lol.


----------



## Favian

Hey guys I just purchased a p8z68 deluxe/gen 3 from newegg, can I join the club? I'm coming from an asrock z68 professional gen3. I decided to get a new board because the asrock is a piece of crap. It doesn't have very many options for stable overclocking, the bios is just horrible. My 2 amd hd 7970s cant even run stable at all if I push them a little so I'm going to try my luck with the asus which should be here in a couple of days.


----------



## mathelm

Has anyone ever bought from "Hardwareking.net"?

They've got the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO, Z68 ( not Gen3 I don't think) for $ 133.16 plus shipping.

and a I7 2600k for $ 256.26 boxed plus shipping.


----------



## Deano12345

2600K arrived there, just backing data up then swapping the boards out !


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crosby*
> 
> See below.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.} VCCIO on auto is usually about 1.8. Would using XMP have any affect on this value when set to auto?
> 
> Set the VCCIO on auto is usually about 1.8 setting, to 1.5 and leave it and no, it wouldn't affect that setting as it's automatically set independently and I noticed it's always 1.8. Anything under 1.5 will result in my chip locking up on me and not even booting up. 1.5 and everything is hunky dory.
> 
> The lowering of this setting essentially gets you a little more power because it lowers your power consumption as a total for the chip. This is how intel designed these things to throttle them selves back. Now that's not to say that you would actually benefit from this until a higher clock setting though it will lower temps a little I'm sure, maybe 2c, maybe.
Click to expand...

VCCIO is 1.8? I'm pretty sure you mean PLL voltage. With that amount of voltage to the memory controller, you'll likely fry your cpu. VCCIO default is usually around the 1.07v mark.


----------



## atibbo69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danger72*
> 
> If its not showing up, it needs to be initialized and formatted.
> See here: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/22069.aspx
> and follow the instructions


Awesome! Thank you so much, this helped me a ton!


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> VCCIO is 1.8? I'm pretty sure you mean PLL voltage. With that amount of voltage to the memory controller, you'll likely fry your cpu. VCCIO default is usually around the 1.07v mark.


That's right.

My MSI-board gave 1.34 IO by default...
Main reason why I got rid of it.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol. So you got a golden Crucial M4?
> EDIT: I just used that software now and I got 11.372 seconds with my LAPTOP, lol. When my second Crucial M4 arrives, we will see what my desktop can do to beat your score, hehe. Earlier, I was using the "Restart-Time" VBScript in measuring my boot time which is why I was so amazed with your scores. How does Windows Boot Timer measure anyway?
> Why be sarcastic?
> You use multiquote and then followed by a double post again?


I thought it was funny when I first read it. It was more a feeble attempt at humor than sarcastic. (With the stop watch you could get any desired speed, all depends on where you start it....) Actually no, I didn't get a double post, I meant to answer like that rather than cram all the post into the multi-quote reply. His post was rather large and all the 'multi's' I stuck in on that post would have been huge if I quoted his post too. So instead I tried to cut back a bit. It still looked like poop, can't win....lol...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Hey guys, question,
> Kind of a noob when it comes to setting up multiple hard drives..
> I have the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> I have 2 hard drives and I want one to run windows and the other I wanna be able to access through windows just to store movies, music and such. Like drag and drop into the 2nd hard drive kinda thing if possible.
> I tired to mess with the bios settings but couldn't get the second hard drive to show up in windows.
> Any help much appreciated.


Guess you already got a good answer (I'm always missing the good ones.) Anyway, I just ran into the same problem with a new SSD drive, but I also already knew about the drive management in windows. Not many know it is there until something like this comes along. Bet it works fine now...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Favian*
> 
> Hey guys I just purchased a p8z68 deluxe/gen 3 from newegg, can I join the club? I'm coming from an asrock z68 professional gen3. I decided to get a new board because the asrock is a piece of crap. It doesn't have very many options for stable overclocking, the bios is just horrible. My 2 amd hd 7970s cant even run stable at all if I push them a little so I'm going to try my luck with the asus which should be here in a couple of days.


I am so glad I didn't go with the AsRock as originally planned. I stuck with Asus and am happy. I was going to go AsRock for a few more 'bells & whistles' for the same amount of money, but after reading a few reviews about the thinner layer boards they use, I went back to Asus,

Anyone interested. I sent for another fan for my H60 so I'd have a push/pull system. I've been waiting a week for it to come and every time I looked at the UPS shipping it just said there was a label issued, but nothing else. So I called and asked about it....Opppsss, says the guy on the phone. Seems we made a shipping label and never shipped the packlage. (I had a couple other things in the order besides the fan.) So he shipped it 2nd day and it'll be here tomorrow. I checked with UPS and this time the package actually shipped with a delivery date of tomorrow, Friday. So, I guess the moral here is to check to make sure your package was actually shipped and not just a label was generated for it. Never had a problem like this before (and I've been buying from them for years & years. I guess this can happen to any big company. I'm surprised it doesn't happen more often.....(A bit off topic, but a good thing to know.)


----------



## uniwarking

Hey guys, any of you update to the latest 2103 BIOS? Pros/cons?


----------



## csm725

Ivy support. I am running 2013, no issues.


----------



## lolvik

What card is that BIOS for?
I can't find any new BIOS for the Deluxe Gen3 on asus.


----------



## Deano12345

Board installed, with crappy stock Intel cooler. It wasn't throttling down for a while, but it seems to have fixed itself. Temps are terrible with the stock cooler


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crosby*
> 
> See below.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.} VCCIO on auto is usually about 1.8. Would using XMP have any affect on this value when set to auto?
> 
> Set the VCCIO on auto is usually about 1.8 setting, to 1.5 and leave it and no, it wouldn't affect that setting as it's automatically set independently and I noticed it's always 1.8. Anything under 1.5 will result in my chip locking up on me and not even booting up. 1.5 and everything is hunky dory.
> 
> The lowering of this setting essentially gets you a little more power because it lowers your power consumption as a total for the chip. This is how intel designed these things to throttle them selves back. Now that's not to say that you would actually benefit from this until a higher clock setting though it will lower temps a little I'm sure, maybe 2c, maybe.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> VCCIO is 1.8? I'm pretty sure you mean PLL voltage. With that amount of voltage to the memory controller, you'll likely fry your cpu. VCCIO default is usually around the 1.07v mark.
Click to expand...

Yes that is correct I did mean CPU PLL not VCCIO my very bad and it can be tweaked down from the default 1.8v. I'm at 4.8 right now using 1.65v CPU PLL and completely stable.


----------



## Eaglesfan251

I'm currently OCing my 2600K, hopefully I can get to 4.8GHz with moderate temps. Currently running P95 @ 4.6GHz @ 1.375v.


----------



## Catscratch

Umm. Why does Asus set Turbo per CPU ? It runs, 1600 or 3700, nothing in between, single or multi threaded, it's 1600 on idle, 3700(all cores) when anything runs.

Setting Turbo per Core is even more fun. Now it's all over the place. Changing a lot. Even %1.0 cpu usage triggers a core to ramp up, thus idle temp fluctuates a lot. Turbo per CPU(all cores) doesn't do it at such low cpu usage.

Did not try AUTO yet. One more funny thing, when I choose RAM speed manually, It sets Turbo behavior to "Turbo per CPU" on its own








Running latest BIOS. And I have a problem with BIOS battery it seems. Power outage today and Bios reset to defaults.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes that is correct I did mean CPU PLL not VCCIO my very bad and it can be tweaked down from the default 1.8v. I'm at 4.8 right now using 1.65v CPU PLL and completely stable.


I figured you might have said the wrong one . That's why I quoted you on the way you said it so you would know what I was talking about. I couldn't remember the name of the setting for sure.


----------



## Corrupt




----------



## Eaglesfan251

I'm trying to get 4.7GHz at 1.40v but I can't get it stable, I think this is plenty of voltage for 4.7GHz. Prime runs for about 10 minutes then BSODs. Any suggestions?

AI Overclock Tuner - Manual
BCLK/PEG frequency - 100
Turbo Ratio - By All Cores
EPU Power Saving Mode - Disabled
VRM Frequency - 350
CPU Current Capability - 140%
CPU PLL Overvoltage - Enabled
Load-Line Calibration - Ultra High
Phase Control/Duty Control - Extreme
CPU Voltage - 1.40v
DRAM Voltage - Auto
VCCSA - Auto
VCCIO - Auto
CPU PLL Voltage - 1.6v
PCH Voltage - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - Enabled
CPU Ratio - Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor - Enabled
Active Processor Cores - All
Limit CPUID Maximum - Disabled
Execute Disable Bit - Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology - Disabled
Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology - Enabled
Turbo Mode - Enabled
CPU C1E - Enabled
CPU C3 Report - Auto
CPU C6 Report - Auto


----------



## Jim888

any one know if you use ssd Cacheing on a Z68 board if it reduces start up time

I've tried searching and all I can find is info on specific programs not on actual boot time of the computer.


----------



## lolvik

Best I can give you.


----------



## jjr007

Got my system together last week, and loving it, please add me to the club.


----------



## Deano12345

4GHz seems to be stable on the stock cooler with 1.15 volts and temps aren't too bad. Left it on prime overnight and temps are from 72-78. Finally sorted out the tempreture problems ! Now I want my H100 back


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> What card is that BIOS for?
> I can't find any new BIOS for the Deluxe Gen3 on asus.


http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68_DELUXEGEN3/#download Click on 'download' then when the page comes up put in your OS and it'll give you the bios update downloads. Hope this helped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Board installed, with crappy stock Intel cooler. It wasn't throttling down for a while, but it seems to have fixed itself. Temps are terrible with the stock cooler


Have to laugh, the Intel fan is the crappiest piece of junk I've ever seen. Years ago they weren't bad and they were pretty heavy and well built, now they just suck(for lack of a better word for them). I replaced mine with a H60 and it's the best sixty bucks I've ever spent. Although I didn't like having it pull air into the case (lots of dust) I turned the fan around so it draws air out. To me it seems there isn't enough of a air flow having it this way (even though the board will speed the fan up for more cooling when the cpu heats up) I went ahead and bought another fan and will mount it so it'll have a push/pull configuration and should ease my mind of having more air flow. I should have spent the extra bucks and got the H100 as my case is built to handle a two fan system like the H100 on the top of the case. But I'm totally satisfied with the H60. Sure beats Intel's flimsy cooler.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim888*
> 
> any one know if you use ssd Cacheing on a Z68 board if it reduces start up time
> I've tried searching and all I can find is info on specific programs not on actual boot time of the computer.


Yes, it does. I just put one on my build. Used a Patriot Pyro 60gig SSD along with a seagate 700 gig hard drive. My boot time is now 20 seconds. from power on. After you put the caching in, it takes a couple days for the cache to build up all the different programs, booting, etc. Once it builds up, wow! It's well worth it. Since the IRST uses raid to work you can then have three more drives (total of 5 the way I understand it) so I have two 200 gig drives in raid 1 and a DvD burner all on the system and everything is working great. Also I use Excel, Word, Access and Outlook and these all load in a second or less now. I am in the middle of three different games right now and now that the cache has built up on these games they are blazingly fast going from screen to screen to load a different level. Well worth using the IRST in a Z68 board, You won't be disappointed. One piece of advice though, if you have enough money to buy a big SSD (say 200+ gigs) then use it as your system drive and don't bother with the cache. This technology was made for a small SSD (no bigger than 64gigs and less if you can find one smaller) to speed up a big system drive. One member here has his SSD mated to a 1.5 terabyte drive. He's experiencing the same fast load and boot times I am.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> I'm trying to get 4.7GHz at 1.40v but I can't get it stable, I think this is plenty of voltage for 4.7GHz. Prime runs for about 10 minutes then BSODs. Any suggestions?
> AI Overclock Tuner - Manual
> BCLK/PEG frequency - 100
> Turbo Ratio - By All Cores
> EPU Power Saving Mode - Disabled
> VRM Frequency - 350
> CPU Current Capability - 140%
> CPU PLL Overvoltage - Enabled
> Load-Line Calibration - Ultra High
> Phase Control/Duty Control - Extreme
> CPU Voltage - 1.40v
> DRAM Voltage - Auto
> VCCSA - Auto
> VCCIO - Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage - 1.6v
> PCH Voltage - Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum - Enabled
> CPU Ratio - Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor - Enabled
> Active Processor Cores - All
> Limit CPUID Maximum - Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit - Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology - Disabled
> Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology - Enabled
> Turbo Mode - Enabled
> CPU C1E - Enabled
> CPU C3 Report - Auto
> CPU C6 Report - Auto


Did you try CPU Offset mode ? When you try it, disable c3 and c6 report.
Load Line Calibration looks too high thou.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Have to laugh, the Intel fan is the crappiest piece of junk I've ever seen. Years ago they weren't bad and they were pretty heavy and well built, now they just suck(for lack of a better word for them). I replaced mine with a H60 and it's the best sixty bucks I've ever spent. Although I didn't like having it pull air into the case (lots of dust) I turned the fan around so it draws air out. To me it seems there isn't enough of a air flow having it this way (even though the board will speed the fan up for more cooling when the cpu heats up) I went ahead and bought another fan and will mount it so it'll have a push/pull configuration and should ease my mind of having more air flow. I should have spent the extra bucks and got the H100 as my case is built to handle a two fan system like the H100 on the top of the case. But I'm totally satisfied with the H60. Sure beats Intel's flimsy cooler.


Tell me about it, I actually have a H100, but its going to be RMA'd next week so its not in the system at the moment. And yeah, my Q9550 cooler actually feels heavier than the 2600K boxed one


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Nah
> Using a Corsair Performance Pro


Lol, that explains the difference in speeds.


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol, that explains the difference in speeds.


Who made you think that I was using a M4? : D


----------



## Jim888

Hmm set it up, load times are for sure amazing... after a time or two

still not any change on boot after 2/3 times for me

I'm not sure about the only having 4 things hooked up...
I've got 2 500gb hd (one for os one for bk up)

a 1tb (media ect)

and then the SSD and a DVD/cd drive is this gonna cause a problem, if so could you cite your source?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Who made you think that I was using a M4? : D


I wasn't really so sure why I had that in mind. I got it mixed up with all the other benchmarks I've seen, I guess.


----------



## TahoeDust

I am having trouble installing Windows 7 64 in Raid 0. Can anyone help me out. I have 2 Vertex 3 60gb drives hooked up to the intel sata 3 ports. When I point the windows installation to the raid driver I get a message saying "To continue installation, use the Load Driver potion to install 32-bit and signed 64-bit drivers. Installing an unsigned 64-bit device driver is not supported and might result in an unusable Windows installation." I get this message with the AHCI/Raid drivers I downloaded from both intel and asus.

Anyone?

EDIT: Never mind. It always helps to RTFM.


----------



## Crosby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Another thing I am confused about is how to set Offset correctly. It is my understanding is that Offset is basically a threshold so your Vcore will stay within that range, allowing it to decrease when the CPU is not under strain and therefore lowering temps compared to Vcore being at a fixed rate (1.250 in my case) and always using that voltage whether the CPU needs it or not. Let me know if I am way off here. Where I am confused is how to come up with your offset value. I thought I read in another fourm(which I can't seem to find again) that you would determine your starting offset value by subtracting your Overclocked VID and subtracting your Stock VID and use that as your offset value and tweak from there. I do not understand if you should be gathering these values when at idle or load.
> What I do know is that I seem to be stable at 1.250 manual voltage and when using offset of +0.020 it would increase my voltage over 1.250 and tempertures would increase. I'm assuming I should be able to lower the offset then by .005 to find the sweet spot. I dunno, the more I try and explain it the more I get confused. Could someone explain simply which value I should be using such as VID from stock Vcore and OC Vcore and whether it shoud be at idle or under strain. And once I find this should I subtract or what? Or should I just be happy with what I have?
> You are correct it lets your voltage go back down instead of it staying pegged at 1.25v all the time. I figured out on my own that offset is best to use no matter what people might say. I managed 5.5GHz using it so I think I can safely this.
> It has different levels of strength you can use essentially via the LLC strength setting and the off set value combined. The lower setting you use the lower the voltage increments will be for any given value you decide to use. So say you use .020 and set LLC to low. It will only give you say "example here" 1.25v under load.
> Set LLC to Medium and keep the .same 020 setting and you will see that now you're getting say, 1.3v under load.
> I also noticed that once you start honing down your perfect lowest voltage core possible that it's best to use the medium setting instead of the say extreme setting like I see allot of people stating over and over again around on the net. The reason I say this is because at the medium setting you have more control over the voltage in smaller increments. As far as I could tell it didn't matter if I had to crank it up to say .230 using the LLC set to low as I was stable in windows just the same and at the same voltage I needed to be stable but I went up to medium and honed it in there to not see that red any more lol.
> Ignore the VID thing yes it is the voltage core that is all. It's just terminology that's all.
> Deep breath,.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps your brain cool down a little. I wish some one would have brain dumped me like that too lol.


So, if I am stable at 4.5Ghz using 1.250 Vcore and want to try Offset, would the goal be to reach as close to 1.250 under load while using offset. So for instance, when I first tried offset I went with +.020 with high LLC and under load it was reaching 1.36 vcore and temps were low 70's. To me staying there doesn't make sense as I am using +.1v to reach the same stability I was reaching at 1.250. So I decreased the offset to +.005 this time trying LLC at medium and under load the max vcore reached 1.304. It seems the only way I would limit the max vCore to around the 1.250 voltage is if I use a negative offset. Do I have the right idea here? The way I understand this is that if you have a stable OC using manual vcore of 1.250 and switch to offset then 1.250 or there abouts should be the peak of your threshold or offset, and the reason for the offset is so it would lower the voltage when not under full load, instead of being at 1.250 all the time. Is this correct and if so should I be going lower with my offset to reach 1.250 under load. I know at -.030 with med LLC i was reaching 1.272 under full load which is closer to my stable OC with manual vcore... am I on the right track here.. if so any suggestions? Shold i be increasing LLC or keeping it at medium?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crosby*
> 
> So, if I am stable at 4.5Ghz using 1.250 Vcore and want to try Offset, would the goal be to reach as close to 1.250 under load while using offset. So for instance, when I first tried offset I went with +.020 with high LLC and under load it was reaching 1.36 vcore and temps were low 70's. To me staying there doesn't make sense as I am using +.1v to reach the same stability I was reaching at 1.250. So I decreased the offset to +.005 this time trying LLC at medium and under load the max vcore reached 1.304. It seems the only way I would limit the max vCore to around the 1.250 voltage is if I use a negative offset. Do I have the right idea here? The way I understand this is that if you have a stable OC using manual vcore of 1.250 and switch to offset then 1.250 or there abouts should be the peak of your threshold or offset, and the reason for the offset is so it would lower the voltage when not under full load, instead of being at 1.250 all the time. Is this correct and if so should I be going lower with my offset to reach 1.250 under load. I know at -.030 with med LLC i was reaching 1.272 under full load which is closer to my stable OC with manual vcore... am I on the right track here.. if so any suggestions? Shold i be increasing LLC or keeping it at medium?


You can use the strength Regular for that voltage I believe. Don't forget you have from regular which does make a difference in voltage by the way all the way up to extreme and all the off set values to play with at each level.

Let's just for the sake of less confusion put this out there. The regular would be for say voltages of at a value of +0 for off set 1.115v top level that I would go with the regular setting for a high setting say +.195 1.38v.

With LLC set to Extreme for strength it would go more as follows for the same settings mentioned above on the offset value, +0 1.328v, +.195 which would probably fry what ever you have lol would probably hit around 1.9v.

I think that should help you see the picture better now. Everything in between the regular and the extreme will be varying voltage levels as well. Thus giving you access to any voltage you need and saving your chip in the long run which is worth it.


----------



## truehighroller1

derp, double post sorry..


----------



## atibbo69

Hey guys,

Is there anyway to check your ram for errors in the bios of the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN 3 ?

I get a BSOD at least once everyday randomly, and I think it it ram related.

On a side note, I have 8 gigs of Corsair Vengeance. How do I make it run at 1600mhz ?


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Is there anyway to check your ram for errors in the bios of the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN 3 ?
> I get a BSOD at least once everyday randomly, and I think it it ram related.
> On a side note, I have 8 gigs of Corsair Vengeance. How do I make it run at 1600mhz ?


Hit the boot selection key on startup (F2 I think, basically a screen that displays your boot options) and there's a memory diagnostic on that page, just run that.

You'll probably have to set the speed/ timings manually in the BIOS to get it to run at 1600Mhz


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Tell me about it, I actually have a H100, but its going to be RMA'd next week so its not in the system at the moment. And yeah, my Q9550 cooler actually feels heavier than the 2600K boxed one


You probably said at one time, but since my mind is mush I'll ask, why did you RMA the H100? They are really good units.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim888*
> 
> Hmm set it up, load times are for sure amazing... after a time or two
> still not any change on boot after 2/3 times for me
> I'm not sure about the only having 4 things hooked up...
> I've got 2 500gb hd (one for os one for bk up)
> a 1tb (media ect)
> and then the SSD and a DVD/cd drive is this gonna cause a problem, if so could you cite your source?


The boot will pick up speed, just takes awhile. I think it's because some things/setting or whatever are still changing and haven't really settled into the same routine over and over. Once it does the boot speed will pick up. Don't expect Mario Andrei type speeds, but a significant increase will be seen. You know, I'm going to try and find that again and mark down where I read it. I believe it was from Intel's web site where I read it. They said something like only 5 devices could be hooked up in the cache configuration. Well, I can vouch for the 5 as I have the SSD & a 700gig HHD, then two 200 gig HHD's in raid 1 and a DvD burner in the 5th port, so there's five. I do have another port, but nothing to plug into it to test this out. I'll try and find the article and will let you know where it is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Is there anyway to check your ram for errors in the bios of the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN 3 ?
> I get a BSOD at least once everyday randomly, and I think it it ram related.
> On a side note, I have 8 gigs of Corsair Vengeance. How do I make it run at 1600mhz ?


The Corsair Vengeance you have is probably the same as mine (Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9). I also have been trying to get it to run 1600. It keeps coming up as 1333. I've changed the setting in BIOs to 1600, but it still comes up as 1333. So I tried it in Turbo and sure enough it ran in 1600. I believe this has something to do with the XMS, that the 1600 speed is only for Turbo that does run the XMS. Now I don't believe that's right, the RAM should run at 1600 in any mode and not 1333. So I'm as confused as you in not understanding why this is happening. Hopefully someone will chime in that knows.


----------



## Catscratch

I suggest not using XMP. I had my ram on XMP and cpu was stock(offset mode, voltage auto). I had lotsa errors. Once I set ram timings, speed and voltage myself and set CPU to Manual Mode(Voltage Auto). I had no errors. I can even run memory below rated voltage, it's 1.6v but runs 1.575v stable(Just before it turns yellow)


----------



## lolvik

Anyone care to post their template for 4.7ghz +?
Preferably on the Deluxe gen/3
I know I can't copy/paste it, but there's so much more options on this board than on my old one, that I don't know where to start, heh.


----------



## Ticko311

havent checked the forums in a while, but i made a new build, and im an owner of a p8z68 deluxe/gen3 if this is still going on. Pictures in my rig setup sig thingy.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Anyone care to post their template for 4.7ghz +?
> Preferably on the Deluxe gen/3
> I know I can't copy/paste it, but there's so much more options on this board than on my old one, that I don't know where to start, heh.


How about everybody post their detailed settings? I know I use a list when OCing. I write down all bios setting ( with regard to OCing), and then all the changes as I go along. How else is there to keep up with it? Below is a good posting, that I think is also kind of what you're looking for:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> I'm trying to get 4.7GHz at 1.40v but I can't get it stable, I think this is plenty of voltage for 4.7GHz. Prime runs for about 10 minutes then BSODs. Any suggestions?
> AI Overclock Tuner - Manual
> BCLK/PEG frequency - 100
> Turbo Ratio - By All Cores
> EPU Power Saving Mode - Disabled
> VRM Frequency - 350
> CPU Current Capability - 140%
> CPU PLL Overvoltage - Enabled
> Load-Line Calibration - Ultra High
> Phase Control/Duty Control - Extreme
> CPU Voltage - 1.40v
> DRAM Voltage - Auto
> VCCSA - Auto
> VCCIO - Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage - 1.6v
> PCH Voltage - Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum - Enabled
> CPU Ratio - Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor - Enabled
> Active Processor Cores - All
> Limit CPUID Maximum - Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit - Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology - Disabled
> Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology - Enabled
> Turbo Mode - Enabled
> CPU C1E - Enabled
> CPU C3 Report - Auto
> CPU C6 Report - Auto


Maybe someone could start a thread with Motherboard w/bios version, CPU etc and detailed list of the bios settings. That would be a handy thread to search. Plus CPU-Z validation postings are worthless. For one, there's not enough detail to recreate the number, but I can keep this little AMD 3650 stable long enough at 5.0 Ghz to do a validation.


----------



## Impagliazzo

Would the P8P67 LE be an upgrade from my current mobo?

I got this cheapo mobo and I'm not happy with it. My DDR3-1600 can only be used as an 1333 and I can't up the multiplier of the processor.

Would I be able to get 4.0ghz with a P8P67 LE?


----------



## lolvik

I sure hope you got it *really* cheap!


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ticko311*
> 
> havent checked the forums in a while, but i made a new build, and im an owner of a p8z68 deluxe/gen3 if this is still going on. Pictures in my rig setup sig thingy.


Welcome!

You've done what I'm going for. I'm also going to get my hands on some blue sleeve, and have blue cables along side with the blue heatsinks and RAM.

However, what's the four wires above your 24pin?

Sorry for the double posts here. ><<


----------



## Impagliazzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> I sure hope you got it *really* cheap!


I was on a budget. Hardware here isn't that cheap. Now that I've got stuff to sell I can fund a better mobo and then also sell this current one.


----------



## Favian

I cant get the high definition audio device to work for some reason. I'm pretty sure that I hooked it up right but on device manager it just says "This device cannot start. (Code 10)". Anybody else having that problem?


----------



## Ticko311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Welcome!
> You've done what I'm going for. I'm also going to get my hands on some blue sleeve, and have blue cables along side with the blue heatsinks and RAM.
> However, what's the four wires above your 24pin?
> Sorry for the double posts here. ><<


its a fan connector. i have them hooked up to my radiator, but due to the nature of the mobo you can only control fan speed on the 4pin fan plugs on the mobo. the 3pins will show speed but you cant change it.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Welcome!
> You've done what I'm going for. I'm also going to get my hands on some blue sleeve, and have blue cables along side with the blue heatsinks and RAM.
> However, what's the four wires above your 24pin?
> Sorry for the double posts here. ><<


I believe that's a 4 pin case fan...



EDIT:

Ahhh... I was right...

btw.. I used a 3 pin external controller on my pump motor, but it's only a closed loop H60...


----------



## lolvik

Ah, ok.
That explains it.

I'm using a front-bay fan-controller myself.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> I don't advocate using offset, especially with the bug.
> But I use it because it hits my target voltage more closely than manual, go figure.
> With manual I have to set 1.45v-h llc to reach stability, droops to 1.39v when stressing.
> Offset gives me stability at 1.4v-h llc with droop at 1.384v.
> 
> That screams insufficient vcore.
> 
> Here are my 4.8 settings, this was 13hrs blend stable, 15hrs memtest stable.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Target CPU Turbo-Mode  Speed: 4800MHz
> Target DRAM Speed: 1866MHz/8-9-8-24 1T
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner      Manual
> BCLK/PEG Frequency      100.0
> Turbo Ratio             By All Cores
> By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) 48
> Internal PLL Overvoltage     Enabled
> Memory Frequency    DDR3-1866MHz
> EPU Power Saving Mode    Disabled
> 
> DIGI+ VRM
> 
> Load-Line Calibaration     High
> VRM Spread Spectrum     Enabled
> Phase Control     Optimized
> Duty Control    T.Probe
> CPU Current Capability    120%
> 
> CPU Voltage     1.248  Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign      +
> CPU Offset Voltage    0.070
> DRAM Voltage    1.56250
> VCCSA Voltage   .90
> VCCIO Voltage  1.0
> CPU PLL Voltage    1.71250
> PCH Voltage    1.0
> CPU Spread Spectrum    Auto
> 
> All are listed as manual requested voltages.
> 1502 bios btw.


Thanks for this. It will help me out a lot, something to start off with.


----------



## Danger72

Quote:


> Anyone care to post their template for 4.7ghz +?
> Preferably on the Deluxe gen/3
> I know I can't copy/paste it, but there's so much more options on this board than on my old one, that I don't know where to start, heh.


I am stable at 4.9, I just used the settings on post #2. I haven't tried tweaking the voltage just yet nor have I tried a higher OC.

P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 board


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danger72*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone care to post their template for 4.7ghz +?
> Preferably on the Deluxe gen/3
> I know I can't copy/paste it, but there's so much more options on this board than on my old one, that I don't know where to start, heh.
> 
> 
> 
> I am stable at 4.9, I just used the settings on post #2. I haven't tried tweaking the voltage just yet nor have I tried a higher OC.
> P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 board
Click to expand...

Lucky you then. : P
I couldn't even boot with it, heh.. ^^

I too get a more stable voltage with offset, but I still don't understand how it works..
How is the voltage one offsets from set? Would that be the VID at a given speed?


----------



## turrican9




----------



## Jim888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim888*
> 
> Hmm set it up, load times are for sure amazing... after a time or two
> still not any change on boot after 2/3 times for me
> I'm not sure about the only having 4 things hooked up...
> I've got 2 500gb hd (one for os one for bk up)
> a 1tb (media ect)
> and then the SSD and a DVD/cd drive is this gonna cause a problem, if so could you cite your source?


so I did this and am loving it, but am having a little bit of a problem (no function just form problems from what I can tell)

problem is listed here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1199448/intel-rst-problem-visual-only-from-what-i-can-tell#post_16182310

any help greatly appreciated


----------



## Deano12345

Anyone using 32GB of RAM on their boards ? I know its stupidly overkill but its cheap enough to do, so I'm looking into it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> You probably said at one time, but since my mind is mush I'll ask, why did you RMA the H100? They are really good units.


Pump is rattling, makes a sound almost like a hard drive writing sound. Cant fault the performance of the unit however


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Is there anyway to check your ram for errors in the bios of the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN 3 ?
> 
> I get a BSOD at least once everyday randomly, and I think it it ram related.
> 
> On a side note, I have 8 gigs of Corsair Vengeance. How do I make it run at 1600mhz ?


I have Corsair Vengeance Memory as well see my sig for model # I have zero problem running at 1333 1600 or 1833 it's rated spec. I always bump voltages to 1.65v in bios but other than that my board and bios defaults timings work well for all three speeds. When using XMP it auto clocks it up to 1866 with factory programmed specs completely stable up to a 4.7 oc over that I have to use 1600 or 1333 speeds. When at 1600 I leave default (auto) timings but switch to 1t command rated again completely stable. up to 5.0 oc.
To select the speed you want it's very easy. Go into bios to the AI Tweaker page Using your mouse click on Memory Frequency



When you click on it select from the drop down type menu the speed you desire just make sure your memory is up to the task see menu below



Choosing XMP profile is equally as easy from the AI Tweaker page click on AI overclock tuner and select XMP or manual from the menu



I would use the XMP profile with optimized defaults ( no overclock) and run either Memtest 86+ from a CD rom two or three complete passes or HCI design Memtest in windows (run two instances as described at site to 200 or 300% coverage) If you have no errors with either program you memory is fine otherwise I would RMA them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Anyone care to post their template for 4.7ghz +?
> Preferably on the Deluxe gen/3
> I know I can't copy/paste it, but there's so much more options on this board than on my old one, that I don't know where to start, heh.


I have provided a spreadsheet for peeps to share there OC template follow the link in my sig if people start using it it will benefit us all. I believe I have a 4.7 template there


----------



## lolvik

4.8ghz even.









Is there any difference on the Deluxe vs Pro cards clocking wise?


----------



## nossy23

Hi,

I'm in the process of trying to find the cause of my computer having random freezes. I never get a BSOD, nor are there any messages in the Event Viewer. I had a Gigabyte motherboard which had these issues, and last week I bought the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3, swapped the Gigabyte to Asus, did a clean Win 7 install. Same issue. My system:

- Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3
- 2600K CPU (no overclock)
- Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler
- 2 * 4 GB Gskill 1600 memory
- Pioneer DVD writer
- Crucial M4 256 Gig boot SSD (I had an Intel SSD, but I changed to this Crucial SSD last week. Did not solve problem)
- Western Black Caviar 2 TB HD
- 580GTX videocard (which I have swapped to a HD5870, but did not solve the problem)
- Corsair AX850 power supply (changed from two other types of Corsair power supplies)
- Noctua Casefans connected to Lamptron controller (so not connected to motherboard)
- Logitech Illuminated Keyboard (also tried another USB keyboard, and even a PS/2 keyboard)
- Razer Imperator 2012 mouse (also tried two other Logitech mouses)
- Auzentech Prelude swapped with Asus Essense STX, and right now onboard
- Wireless USB Stick (tried 2 different types)
- Win7 Home Premium 64bit

So basically everything has been changed one or more times except for:

- CPU
- Memory
- DVD writer
- WD Black Caviar 2TD HD (this is a secundary drive, SSD is boot)

I did run Memtest, but I guess it might not pick up all errors? Anyway, when my motherboard freezes, sometimes the power to the USB keyboard and mouse is also cut, sometimes not. The only way to get the system running again is cutting the power, and power on again. Most of the time the Q-Code stays at AA, however last time my system froze, I got the following code:

Code 02 AP initialization before mircocode loading

This code appeared after my system was working for a few hours with the AA code. I have tried to find more info on the Code 02 but I can't find it anywhere on the Asus website. Anybody can help me out a bit here?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> I suggest not using XMP. I had my ram on XMP and cpu was stock(offset mode, voltage auto). I had lotsa errors. Once I set ram timings, speed and voltage myself and set CPU to Manual Mode(Voltage Auto). I had no errors. I can even run memory below rated voltage, it's 1.6v but runs 1.575v stable(Just before it turns yellow)


Thanks, I'm going to play around with it some more and see what happens...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Impagliazzo*
> 
> Would the P8P67 LE be an upgrade from my current mobo?
> I got this cheapo mobo and I'm not happy with it. My DDR3-1600 can only be used as an 1333 and I can't up the multiplier of the processor.
> Would I be able to get 4.0ghz with a P8P67 LE?


Off hand I can't answer if it will go that high or not. I do (however) understand that parts in your part of the world can be very expensive (which has to suck). Anyway, is there a possibility of getting open box or refurbished mobo's? This might save you even more and you'd be able to get a higher level board. Can you have parts shipped from the US? Or does that cost an arm & a leg too? Just trying to figure out how to get you a better board without breaking the bank. Another solution would be to have a friend in the US buy, then ship you the board. 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ticko311*
> 
> its a fan connector. i have them hooked up to my radiator, but due to the nature of the mobo you can only control fan speed on the 4pin fan plugs on the mobo. the 3pins will show speed but you cant change it.


Why do they do this? I too find this a bit odd that they can't make all the fan connectors 4-pin.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Anyone using 32GB of RAM on their boards ? I know its stupidly overkill but its cheap enough to do, so I'm looking into it
> Pump is rattling, makes a sound almost like a hard drive writing sound. Cant fault the performance of the unit however


Can't fault you for getting 32GB's of RAM. RAM is at an all time low in price right now. It would be even cheaper if the Tsunami hadn't occurred. That screwed things up not only for electronics, but a lot of other neat stuff as well (cars, etc...). In fact some of the car dealers are just now starting to get in shipments of cars, but not in the quantity they're used to getting. Same goes for electronics, so as time marches on RAM will even be cheaper. Ah ha, I see why the RMA now, thanks. I think I read that a bunch went out with bad pumps on them, do you know this to be true or did you just get unlucky and get a faulty pump?

All...Finally got the 2nd fan in my H60. The screws I had didn't fit (figures) so I had to scramble to find some that did. Luckily I had some in my shop that did the trick. Temps are even cooler now. I will run some tests today (Prime & Intel's Burn) and see how much, but by just watching Core Temp I can tell I've lowered the temp by 2*c. The 2nd success is I finally got my graphics card to work in the black slot at x16. I couldn't get a picture unless I ran it in the blue slot and from the suggestion from some kind soul here I put the card back in the black slot to see if I could get it to work. Well, the screen was blank again. I could tell the machine booted and I switched the monitor through DVI, HDMI, & VGA. Nothing. Put it back in DVI and (since I couldn't see the screen) I just pressed the reset button (a damn good thing to have). This time a picture came up! Yeah! I tried a few settings (as it was stuck in it's lowest resolution) and when trying to get to the Nvidia control panel up it told me there was no Nvidia card in my system (but I had a picture). So I hit the reset button again and this time the picture came up in the same low resolution, but the Nvidia control panel worked! So I made the appropriate settings and everything seemed to work okay. I put CPU-Z up and sure enough the card was now running at x16. So go figure, if for some reason your card won't work in the 16x slot, just reset the machine a few times and for some odd reason it clears everything and it works like it should.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> All...Finally got the 2nd fan in my H60. The screws I had didn't fit (figures) so I had to scramble to find some that did. Luckily I had some in my shop that did the trick. Temps are even cooler now. I will run some tests today (Prime & Intel's Burn) and see how much, but by just watching Core Temp I can tell I've lowered the temp by 2*c.


I think their suppose to be #6-32 x 1.25 ( 1.25 depending on how thick your fan is). But push pull is the way to go. I have mine setup as sort of a push pull pull though. Years ago I was oppcessed with getting the PC heat out of the room, so with there being an unfinished stair well to the basement on the other side of the wall behind my desk, I ran a 4" dryer vent hose into the wall. I attach it to the rear of the PC (H60 ) via a modified exhaust vent housing from Lowes.
 With the flaps removed of course. Ran a 12v molex plug from the PC to a fan at the exhaust end ( which runs full speed all the time because I can't hear it). Volia... push pull-pull.....









I even have a second 4" hose run from the exhaust end back down (in the wall) to my feet under my desk so that during the winter (now) the hotter my PC gets, the toastier my feet get....


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> I think their suppose to be #6-32 x 1.25 ( 1.25 depending on how thick your fan is). But push pull is the way to go. I have mine setup as sort of a push pull pull though. Years ago I was oppcessed with getting the PC heat out of the room, so with there being an unfinished stair well to the basement on the other side of the wall behind my desk, I ran a 4" dryer vent hose into the wall. I attach it to the rear of the PC (H60 ) via a modified exhaust vent housing from Lowes.
> With the flaps removed of course. Ran a 12v molex plug from the PC to a fan at the exhaust end ( which runs full speed all the time because I can't hear it). Volia... push pull-pull.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even have a second 4" hose run from the exhaust end back down (in the wall) to my feet under my desk so that during the winter (now) the hotter my PC gets, the toastier my feet get....


I've pondered doing this my self but never have. I commend you sir for your hard work









@ Jae:

I'm using xmp fine. The issue is, which I've noticed this my self or faced this issue my self rather. If you switch cpus or memory and keep a overclock profile it will screw everything up when you use that said profile.. I had to reset my BIOS to get my memory stable after inadvertently, doing this my self..

I went ahead and cleared all the old profiles out by saving a default one to all of them so it wouldn't try loading any settings it self either if I failed an overclock..

I then set my memory to 1066 and tested it stable then cranked it right back up to 1950 and tested it again, stable, haven't looked back or had any more issues since.

I'm sitting at 4.9GHz or 47 x 104.6, 1.48v~.


----------



## polynomialc

im a bit late to the game here, but just did some upgrading to p8z68-v gen3, with 2600k hyper212 cooler 2-fans. after being longtime overclocker with amd 1090t, im very rusty in the intel oc settings. here is what i have so far, my goal is keep temps safe, keep ht on, dont need to max chip out since im on air cooling.

cpu voltage - 1.2
vccio voltage - auto (1.8)
cpu ppl voltage - auto (1.8)
pch voltage - auto (1.062)
cpu spreadspectrum - disabled
load line calibration - auto
vrm frequency - auto
phase control - extreme
duty control - t-probe

running at low starting point here of 4.2 ghz with 42x multiplier, idle temps in realtemp are 26c-30c idle. when in run 8 thread prime im getting up to 70's. also ive disabled all powersaving features, and disabled c1e. disabled internal ppl overvoltage, disabled c3/c6

looking for any advice for these settings , any obvious changes i should make etc?
also wondering about "anti surge support" setting and if most people have this enabled or disabled, system is plugged into surge power bar already. thanks for any info


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Anyone using 32GB of RAM on their boards ? I know its stupidly overkill but its cheap enough to do, so I'm looking into it
> Pump is rattling, makes a sound almost like a hard drive writing sound. Cant fault the performance of the unit however
> 
> 
> 
> Can't fault you for getting 32GB's of RAM. RAM is at an all time low in price right now. It would be even cheaper if the Tsunami hadn't occurred. That screwed things up not only for electronics, but a lot of other neat stuff as well (cars, etc...). In fact some of the car dealers are just now starting to get in shipments of cars, but not in the quantity they're used to getting. Same goes for electronics, so as time marches on RAM will even be cheaper. Ah ha, I see why the RMA now, thanks. I think I read that a bunch went out with bad pumps on them, do you know this to be true or did you just get unlucky and get a faulty pump?
Click to expand...

Yeah, there was a faulty batch that went out, mine is one of those. Happens with every company so I'm not too bothered to be honest. Their customer service has been excellent in dealing with it


----------



## kimmetje

Hi Everyone,

Hope you might be able to help me.

Unfortunately it's only after loitering on forums after purchasing parts that I've been advised that there may be a problem with some of my build.

I have ordered a NZXT Phantom 410 computer case, CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B Corsair Venceance Blue Ram, ASUS P8Z68-V-Pro Gen 3 motherboard, and an Intel 2500K processor.

I was wondering whether the above configuration would make it impossible to physically fit a Silver Arrow which I had been advised to order (and which unfortunately I have)

Will this create a problem - or am I panicking for no reason?

If so, would changing the Silver Arrow to a Frio do anything?

If neither of the above work, are there any alternatives to consider?

Thanks for your advice and help on this!

Kimmetje


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimmetje*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> Hope you might be able to help me.
> Unfortunately it's only after loitering on forums after purchasing parts that I've been advised that there may be a problem with some of my build.
> I have ordered a NZXT Phantom 410 computer case, CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B Corsair Venceance Blue Ram, ASUS P8Z68-V-Pro Gen 3 motherboard, and an Intel 2500K processor.
> I was wondering whether the above configuration would make it impossible to physically fit a Silver Arrow which I had been advised to order (and which unfortunately I have)
> Will this create a problem - or am I panicking for no reason?
> If so, would changing the Silver Arrow to a Frio do anything?
> If neither of the above work, are there any alternatives to consider?
> Thanks for your advice and help on this!
> Kimmetje


Not sure sure of the serial numbers, but is your RAM the one with the tall Vengence heat spreaders or the low profile version. I'd say the tall version may come into conflict if its used in the first slot, but should be fine in the second (and forth for the other module) slot. The Frio wouldnt cool quite as well but should fit fine. Other alternatives would be the Corsair H80 or H60.


----------



## kimmetje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Not sure sure of the serial numbers, but is your RAM the one with the tall Vengence heat spreaders or the low profile version. I'd say the tall version may come into conflict if its used in the first slot, but should be fine in the second (and forth for the other module) slot. The Frio wouldnt cool quite as well but should fit fine. Other alternatives would be the Corsair H80 or H60.


Thanks for the quick reply Deano,

It is indeed the ones with the tall heat spreaders, hence my hitting the panic button! My further research seems to suggest it's more likely than not going to create issues.

I'm reading more into the Corsair H60 option which seems to be more elegant than having a behemoth like the Silver Arrow and I can get it +/- the same price point from Amazon France. I think I might be tempted to send them back the Silver Arrow and then order the Corsair H60. Considering I'm planning only to do moderate OC using the Asus software, I figure the Corsair option should be more than sufficient.

I've researched this build for months and can't believe I'm getting cold feet and seeing mistakes a few days after purchasing the damn thing







.


----------



## Mercyflush64

You can always use a dremel tool to either cut or grind away a bit off of the heat spreaders so they will fit if returning them is not an option you want to take.


----------



## nossy23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nossy23*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm in the process of trying to find the cause of my computer having random freezes. I never get a BSOD, nor are there any messages in the Event Viewer. I had a Gigabyte motherboard which had these issues, and last week I bought the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3, swapped the Gigabyte to Asus, did a clean Win 7 install. Same issue. My system:
> - Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3
> - 2600K CPU (no overclock)
> - Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler
> - 2 * 4 GB Gskill 1600 memory
> - Pioneer DVD writer
> - Crucial M4 256 Gig boot SSD (I had an Intel SSD, but I changed to this Crucial SSD last week. Did not solve problem)
> - Western Black Caviar 2 TB HD
> - 580GTX videocard (which I have swapped to a HD5870, but did not solve the problem)
> - Corsair AX850 power supply (changed from two other types of Corsair power supplies)
> - Noctua Casefans connected to Lamptron controller (so not connected to motherboard)
> - Logitech Illuminated Keyboard (also tried another USB keyboard, and even a PS/2 keyboard)
> - Razer Imperator 2012 mouse (also tried two other Logitech mouses)
> - Auzentech Prelude swapped with Asus Essense STX, and right now onboard
> - Wireless USB Stick (tried 2 different types)
> - Win7 Home Premium 64bit
> So basically everything has been changed one or more times except for:
> - CPU
> - Memory
> - DVD writer
> - WD Black Caviar 2TD HD (this is a secundary drive, SSD is boot)
> I did run Memtest, but I guess it might not pick up all errors? Anyway, when my motherboard freezes, sometimes the power to the USB keyboard and mouse is also cut, sometimes not. The only way to get the system running again is cutting the power, and power on again. Most of the time the Q-Code stays at AA, however last time my system froze, I got the following code:
> Code 02 AP initialization before mircocode loading
> This code appeared after my system was working for a few hours with the AA code. I have tried to find more info on the Code 02 but I can't find it anywhere on the Asus website. Anybody can help me out a bit here?


So anybody knows what "Code 02 AP initialization before microcode loading" means? Is it a problem with the memory or the CPU?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> You can always use a dremel tool to either cut or grind away a bit off of the heat spreaders so they will fit if returning them is not an option you want to take.


I just did that for my 6970. My receipt went missing micro centers system.. I used my old 5870s vrm5 heat-sink which I had to dremel out a decent chunk of, and the spitfire which I didn't have to modify.

I had to modify the vrm5 to get it to be able to sit down all the way. It was hitting the mosfets. It's running cooler then ever without any fans. I put one big fan on them any way though







.


----------



## kimmetje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I just did that for my 6970. My receipt went missing micro centers system.. I used my old 5870s vrm5 heat-sink which I had to dremel out a decent chunk of, and the spitfire which I didn't have to modify.
> I had to modify the vrm5 to get it to be able to sit down all the way. It was hitting the mosfets. It's running cooler then ever without any fans. I put one big fan on them any way though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I was given another option that would save the RAM and that was to consider getting a Corsair H60. Considering I am only planning to do mild to moderate Overclocking this seems like the less inconvenient option, as I'd only have to replace one part rather than two... Otherwise I'd have gone with the just return it option as it would not have been too big a deal...


----------



## chillidog

if am right it's cpu.
try googling am sure you find your answer


----------



## kimmetje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> if am right it's cpu.
> try googling am sure you find your answer


Yes, am looking for a solution that allows me to cool my CPU, but have the issue that I took the Corsair Blue high fins, without realising that that choice was going to severely limit my CPU cooling options.


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi all,

my p8z68-v gen3 should be home in a few days, will go with the rig in my signature









I've seen Asus provides an almighty load of drivers and tools on their web site. I'd like to know:

- What MUST be installed: necessary drivers (eventually more up to date with respect to the ones in the box and/or on the asus web site)

- What can be skipped if not necessary ? e.g. JMicron SATA3 drivers ? Lucid Virtu (I don't care about being able to use both my 6850 and the iternal graphics, unless you convince me it's good to do so.

- What MUST be skipped







I've heard the AI Suite is a bit of bloatware, but maybe some individual components are still useful. Which ones ?

Thanks !

MaX.


----------



## lolvik

Skip the AI Suite at least..
Otherwise it depends.

Personally I don't have any USB3 devices, so I don't have those. Nor do I use the internal GPU, so I've skipped those as well.
Intel Smart Respons if you're not using it, Realtek-drivers if you have a network-card or a sound-card.

Could probably drop the JMicron drivers as well if you're going to use the marvell-ports.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> I think their suppose to be #6-32 x 1.25 ( 1.25 depending on how thick your fan is). But push pull is the way to go. I have mine setup as sort of a push pull pull though. Years ago I was oppcessed with getting the PC heat out of the room, so with there being an unfinished stair well to the basement on the other side of the wall behind my desk, I ran a 4" dryer vent hose into the wall. I attach it to the rear of the PC (H60 ) via a modified exhaust vent housing from Lowes.
> With the flaps removed of course. Ran a 12v molex plug from the PC to a fan at the exhaust end ( which runs full speed all the time because I can't hear it). Volia... push pull-pull.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even have a second 4" hose run from the exhaust end back down (in the wall) to my feet under my desk so that during the winter (now) the hotter my PC gets, the toastier my feet get....


That's what I ended up using, a 6x32 screw. Not the same or the thread is different. They fit, but not as good as they should which leads me to believe they maybe a metric screw. I'm going to email the company and find out what size they should be. With my luck the thread in the radiator is messed up now and I'll have to take it all apart and re-tap the four holes. Since I expect a build up of dirt over time, this summer maybe a good time for me to tear it down and do all this (and clean it all out). Meanwhile it's working like a champ and I'm glad I went with a 'higher priced' fan for the push/pull. It's a Aerocool Shark 15-blade with a 'fluid dynamic bearing' and they give you a voltage reduction cable with it in case the 12v runs it too fast. The reduction cable cuts it down to 7 volts I believe, nice if you don't need all the air flow. So now I know that a $15 fan can be better than the $3 or $4 dollar fans...lol...

Are you serious? You actually vented the heat outside? I think the feet warmer is a better option, or if you have a cat, they'd love it in the winter. (I have a Modern Siamese cat that loves to hug the heat registers in the winter...) Or one could make a small oven warmer and you could keep biscuits in there...lol...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I've pondered doing this my self but never have. I commend you sir for your hard work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Jae:
> I'm using xmp fine. The issue is, which I've noticed this my self or faced this issue my self rather. If you switch cpus or memory and keep a overclock profile it will screw everything up when you use that said profile.. I had to reset my BIOS to get my memory stable after inadvertently, doing this my self..
> I went ahead and cleared all the old profiles out by saving a default one to all of them so it wouldn't try loading any settings it self either if I failed an overclock..
> I then set my memory to 1066 and tested it stable then cranked it right back up to 1950 and tested it again, stable, haven't looked back or had any more issues since.
> I'm sitting at 4.9GHz or 47 x 104.6, 1.48v~.


Great, I had all the parameters set and was about to save & reboot when I said to myself, crap I haven't done a backup yet today so I skipped the save and didn't try it. I will now (and do a backup first) and see what happens, just didn't want to lose anything. An odd thing was when I finally got the x16 slot working it seemed to have reset more than the machine and the SSD cache had to build up again for booting & shutdown. But it only took about 4 reboots and it was back to its old speedy self again. I guess stranger things have happened. Thanks, will do and let you know if it works (it should).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Yeah, there was a faulty batch that went out, mine is one of those. Happens with every company so I'm not too bothered to be honest. Their customer service has been excellent in dealing with it


You're like me, if there's a bad batch or something that'll go wrong it usually happens to me or I get the bad bunch of parts.....sigh....It is good to hear Corsairs customer service is on the ball. I like them and the stuff they have and when I hear they care about their customers it makes me one for life.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> You can always use a dremel tool to either cut or grind away a bit off of the heat spreaders so they will fit if returning them is not an option you want to take.


Good call, I was going to suggest that myself. I don't know what I'd do without my Dremel (and the million different add-on's and parts I have for it). Makes the hardest job go easy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimmetje*
> 
> Yes, am looking for a solution that allows me to cool my CPU, but have the issue that I took the Corsair Blue high fins, without realising that that choice was going to severely limit my CPU cooling options.


I'll vouch for the H60 (or any of Corsairs coolers, memory, etc, etc.) Good quality. I have read some where or seen that they (or some other manufacture) has a water cooler for memory. (Or maybe in the near future if not out already.) It's the same princable as the CPU water coolers. They already have a graphics card cooler out so it just makes sense to follow with a memory stick cooler. Might solve the problem with out having to use the Dremel.


----------



## WhatIsHip

Hey guys, just finished my build with the P8z68, but I have a few questions. I'm using an SSD, and it sometimes takes a really really long time to clear the splash screen. We are talking minutes. Also right now the board is throwing the code 30, and randomly wakes it self up from sleep. Any ideas?

Also on bootup it flashes through a bunch of codes on the Debug. Then it settles on AA. is this normal?


----------



## lolvik

Yes, it should go through a number of codes on boot before it settles at AA, however, it should not act like you're describing.

Mind giving us the whole list of components?

Someone please correct me here though, the sleep-function is known to be somewhat buggy on Sandy Bridge(?)/this generation in general.
- Personally I can't comment on that, as I don't use the sleep function, and hardly ever shut my PC down.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> That's what I ended up using, a 6x32 screw. Not the same or the thread is different. They fit, but not as good as they should which leads me to believe they maybe a metric screw. I'm going to email the company and find out what size they should be. With my luck the thread in the radiator is messed up now and I'll have to take it all apart and re-tap the four holes. Since I expect a build up of dirt over time, this summer maybe a good time for me to tear it down and do all this (and clean it all out). Meanwhile it's working like a champ and I'm glad I went with a 'higher priced' fan for the push/pull. It's a Aerocool Shark 15-blade with a 'fluid dynamic bearing' and they give you a voltage reduction cable with it in case the 12v runs it too fast. The reduction cable cuts it down to 7 volts I believe, nice if you don't need all the air flow. So now I know that a $15 fan can be better than the $3 or $4 dollar fans...lol...


I'm pretty sure #6x32 are right, ( I took the ones that came with it to the hardware store) they aren't as tight as the ones that came with it, but they tighten down so... I've been looking for the little packs they came in to make sure, but can't seem to find them. Oh well, let us know what Corsair says...
btw, I actually used ones that were 1.5" long because that's what I had. Point is there are no tubes/fins between the 2 sides.
I used a 4 pin (PWM) Y cable spliter from newegg to power the 2 fans. Also Here's a good article on making your own "speed reducer" cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Are you serious? You actually vented the heat outside? I think the feet warmer is a better option, or if you have a cat, they'd love it in the winter. (I have a Modern Siamese cat that loves to hug the heat registers in the winter...) Or one could make a small oven warmer and you could keep biscuits in there...lol...


My office is on the south side of the house, so heat is an issue during the summer, and it makes a huge diff in both room and cpu temp....

Yea, I've been looking for one a those easy-bake oven cookbooks.... But with this 3650 I idle at about 29c (86) so not hot enough for cooking. Maybe when I get around to this new board and a I7 at say 5Ghz.....Then it'll be brownie time....









EDIT:

Don't know if they make a "old man" kit for you or not... will keep looking though, how much time do I have?....lol


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> That's what I ended up using, a 6x32 screw. Not the same or the thread is different. They fit, but not as good as they should which leads me to believe they maybe a metric screw. I'm going to email the company and find out what size they should be. With my luck the thread in the radiator is messed up now and I'll have to take it all apart and re-tap the four holes.


You'll probably find this a nit-picky point, but it is not a 6x32 screw, but a 6-32 screw. 6 gauge and 32 threads per inch. Not to be confused with 6/32" either.
Quote:


> The 6-32 is a UTS screw with a major thread diameter of 0.1380 inches and a tpi (threads per inch, imperial threads) of 32 tpi. It is by far the most common screw found inside computer cases and commonly appears in lengths of 0.15 and 0.25 in. Nearly every brand new computer case comes with a bag of these. They are used:
> 
> To fasten a power supply to the case
> To fasten a hard disk drive to the case
> To hold an expansion card in place by its metal slot cover
> To fasten case components to one another, like fans onto radiators.
> Usually, a 6-32 screw holds the main cover on the case. When it's not a 6-32, a larger 8-32 is the most likely alternative.
> 
> Of all the screws provided by computer case manufacturers, the 6-32 screw typically has the coarsest threading. They are almost always provided with a Phillips drive, accepting a #2 size tip (the larger of the two most common Phillips screwdriver tips). While a #1 size tip will drive the screw, it will be awkward to use and increases the risk of cam-out and damage to the screw head. They are less frequently provided with a hex head, even less with a pan head - a low disk with a chamfered outer edge. Because they are used in places where easy removal and replacement may be desirable (such as on the side panels of the PC case), they are frequently available as thumbscrews with oversized friction-gripped heads that can be removed with one's fingers rather than with tools.
> 
> 6-32 screws will fit into holes threaded for M3 screws (the second most common type of screw in PCs), but this will damage the finer M3 threading. Also, when 6-32 screws are screwed into brass M3-threaded motherboard standoffs, the threads tend to become "locked", and the entire motherboard must be removed to separate them. The same is true if a M3 is screwed into a 6-32 threaded hole.


Quote:


> The M3 screw is the second most common screw found in PCs. This is a metric screw, and just about every case manufacturer provides a package of M3 screws as well as 6-32's. Specifically, the screw type is M3-0.50, meaning the threads of the screws are 0.50 millimetres apart. These screws, like the 6-32 screws, also typically accept a #2 size Phillips screwdriver tip.
> 
> M3 screws are used for fastening optical disc drives and floppy drives. They will fit in 6-32-threaded holes, but their narrower diameter and finer thread pitch causes them to seat only loosely in the hole.
> 
> M3 screws are also the most common screw used to secure a motherboard to motherboard standoffs.
> 
> Of all the screws provided with PCs, M3s are usually identified by them having the finest thread pitch of all the screws provided.
> 
> 6-32 screws will strip the threads of M3-threaded holes. When the M3 hole is drilled into sheet metal (as on floppy and optical disc drives), a 6-32 screw that damages the threading will typically stay in the hole and can be removed fairly easily. When the M3 threading is into solid metal (such as a motherboard standoff), a 6-32 screw will get stuck before it can be screwed in all the way.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_case_screws


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> You'll probably find this a nit-picky point, but it is not a 6x32 screw, but a 6-32 screw. 6 gauge and 32 threads per inch. Not to be confused with 6/32" either.


Great info. I'm an engineer by training, so I like things nit picked. But now I have to find one of those screw packets, you've got me thinking (did I go with metric......)....


----------



## selluminis

Ho do I get added to the owners list?


----------



## lolvik

Start out by actually letting us know that you have a board


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Start out by actually letting us know that you have a board


Okay, I have the asus p8z68-v/gen3


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Or read the first post.


----------



## kevindd992002

I don't get it, why can't ASUS releases a new BIOS for the P8Z68-V/GEN3 that is the counterpart of the new BIOS which was released for the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> I'm pretty sure #6x32 are right, ( I took the ones that came with it to the hardware store) they aren't as tight as the ones that came with it, but they tighten down so... I've been looking for the little packs they came in to make sure, but can't seem to find them. Oh well, let us know what Corsair says...
> btw, I actually used ones that were 1.5" long because that's what I had. Point is there are no tubes/fins between the 2 sides.
> I used a 4 pin (PWM) Y cable spliter from newegg to power the 2 fans. Also Here's a good article on making your own "speed reducer" cable.
> My office is on the south side of the house, so heat is an issue during the summer, and it makes a huge diff in both room and cpu temp....
> Yea, I've been looking for one a those easy-bake oven cookbooks.... But with this 3650 I idle at about 29c (86) so not hot enough for cooking. Maybe when I get around to this new board and a I7 at say 5Ghz.....Then it'll be brownie time....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Don't know if they make a "old man" kit for you or not... will keep looking though, how much time do I have?....lol


Same here, they didn't tighten down as well as the ones that came with the H60, but did work. I see we have someone that knows a bit more about the screw (which is great) and this might confirm my belief it's a metric or I don't know the number of threads to the size screw. (Which of course I forgot to go to Corsairs site and ask, so I'm looking now as that has to be a common question). ((And found it, here's the answer: The screw thread and length are 6 x 32 x 1 1/4" #6 machine thread, 32 TPI (threads per inch), 1.25 inches in length. )) So "alancsalt" is correct 100%. And to answer the question of the packages, "Dubro" makes the packages. I was very heavily into RC Planes (hence the handle) at one time and built a lot (way too many) RC planes. Dubro makes a ton of the small parts and machined screws, etc; that I used to use and that's where I found that I had some without running to the hardware store. Although they fit, they still didn't feel like they fit 100% like the original. Anyway, since the radiator is built from Aluminum the threaded holes are very easy to strip or to get an 'off thread' to fit, but once taken out won't be the same putting them back. So when I do the first cleaning (in about 4+ months from now) I'll tap new threads and use the proper thread for the new tap so I don't continually mess things up worse.

I didn't know they made a splitter 4-pin cable...thanks, I will purchase one. I just plugged into an open chassis fan plug that I had (didn't want too, but did). This will (obviously) be much better.

At this point the length of time left is anyone's guess......I hope for my sake I have at least 20+ more years. But at the rate my poor body has been breaking down lately I fear there won't be much left of me, so hurry! ....lol....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> Yes, it should go through a number of codes on boot before it settles at AA, however, it should not act like you're describing.
> Mind giving us the whole list of components?
> Someone please correct me here though, the sleep-function is known to be somewhat buggy on Sandy Bridge(?)/this generation in general.
> - Personally I can't comment on that, as I don't use the sleep function, and hardly ever shut my PC down.


Like you, I have never shut down a computer that I've built until now. I decided with this build that I would use the sleep function and (hopefully) save some wear & tear on parts (and possibly save some electricity). Anyway, so far I have not had any problems with the sleep function (knock on wood). If the Sandy Bridge is buggy in this department I haven't seen it (nor have I read anything on it, but I do not doubt you). I can only say it seems to be working flawlessly for me (so far).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> You'll probably find this a nit-picky point, but it is not a 6x32 screw, but a 6-32 screw. 6 gauge and 32 threads per inch. Not to be confused with 6/32" either.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The 6-32 is a UTS screw with a major thread diameter of 0.1380 inches and a tpi (threads per inch, imperial threads) of 32 tpi. It is by far the most common screw found inside computer cases and commonly appears in lengths of 0.15 and 0.25 in. Nearly every brand new computer case comes with a bag of these. They are used:
> To fasten a power supply to the case
> To fasten a hard disk drive to the case
> To hold an expansion card in place by its metal slot cover
> To fasten case components to one another, like fans onto radiators.
> Usually, a 6-32 screw holds the main cover on the case. When it's not a 6-32, a larger 8-32 is the most likely alternative.
> Of all the screws provided by computer case manufacturers, the 6-32 screw typically has the coarsest threading. They are almost always provided with a Phillips drive, accepting a #2 size tip (the larger of the two most common Phillips screwdriver tips). While a #1 size tip will drive the screw, it will be awkward to use and increases the risk of cam-out and damage to the screw head. They are less frequently provided with a hex head, even less with a pan head - a low disk with a chamfered outer edge. Because they are used in places where easy removal and replacement may be desirable (such as on the side panels of the PC case), they are frequently available as thumbscrews with oversized friction-gripped heads that can be removed with one's fingers rather than with tools.
> 6-32 screws will fit into holes threaded for M3 screws (the second most common type of screw in PCs), but this will damage the finer M3 threading. Also, when 6-32 screws are screwed into brass M3-threaded motherboard standoffs, the threads tend to become "locked", and the entire motherboard must be removed to separate them. The same is true if a M3 is screwed into a 6-32 threaded hole.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The M3 screw is the second most common screw found in PCs. This is a metric screw, and just about every case manufacturer provides a package of M3 screws as well as 6-32's. Specifically, the screw type is M3-0.50, meaning the threads of the screws are 0.50 millimetres apart. These screws, like the 6-32 screws, also typically accept a #2 size Phillips screwdriver tip.
> M3 screws are used for fastening optical disc drives and floppy drives. They will fit in 6-32-threaded holes, but their narrower diameter and finer thread pitch causes them to seat only loosely in the hole.
> M3 screws are also the most common screw used to secure a motherboard to motherboard standoffs.
> Of all the screws provided with PCs, M3s are usually identified by them having the finest thread pitch of all the screws provided.
> 6-32 screws will strip the threads of M3-threaded holes. When the M3 hole is drilled into sheet metal (as on floppy and optical disc drives), a 6-32 screw that damages the threading will typically stay in the hole and can be removed fairly easily. When the M3 threading is into solid metal (such as a motherboard standoff), a 6-32 screw will get stuck before it can be screwed in all the way.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_case_screws
Click to expand...

I'll 2nd that I would rather hear from someone on nit-picking as this is why we post, to learn. Everyone has a bit more knowledge than someone else in a certain area, and in this case I'm glad to hear from you. See the above answer (to 'Mathelm') as I checked with Corsairs site on the dimensions.


----------



## WhatIsHip

Hey,
My build

Corsair 500r, i7-2700k, h100, Sapphire 6979 2gb, Seasonic x750 gold, Kingston hyperx t1, Kingston HyperX SSD, 160gb HDD.

I have shut it off and turned it on a few times since this post and it has been great, under 30 seconds full boot.

Greg


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Same here, they didn't tighten down as well as the ones that came with the H60, but did work. I see we have someone that knows a bit more about the screw (which is great) and this might confirm my belief it's a metric or I don't know the number of threads to the size screw. (Which of course I forgot to go to Corsairs site and ask, so I'm looking now as that has to be a common question). ((And found it, here's the answer: The screw thread and length are 6 x 32 x 1 1/4" #6 machine thread, 32 TPI (threads per inch), 1.25 inches in length. )) So "alancsalt" is correct 100%. And to answer the question of the packages, "Dubro" makes the packages. I was very heavily into RC Planes (hence the handle) at one time and built a lot (way too many) RC planes. Dubro makes a ton of the small parts and machined screws, etc; that I used to use and that's where I found that I had some without running to the hardware store. Although they fit, they still didn't feel like they fit 100% like the original. Anyway, since the radiator is built from Aluminum the threaded holes are very easy to strip or to get an 'off thread' to fit, but once taken out won't be the same putting them back. So when I do the first cleaning (in about 4+ months from now) I'll tap new threads and use the proper thread for the new tap so I don't continually mess things up worse.
> I didn't know they made a splitter 4-pin cable...thanks, I will purchase one. I just plugged into an open chassis fan plug that I had (didn't want too, but did). This will (obviously) be much better.
> At this point the length of time left is anyone's guess......I hope for my sake I have at least 20+ more years. But at the rate my poor body has been breaking down lately I fear there won't be much left of me, so hurry! ....lol....
> Like you, I have never shut down a computer that I've built until now. I decided with this build that I would use the sleep function and (hopefully) save some wear & tear on parts (and possibly save some electricity). Anyway, so far I have not had any problems with the sleep function (knock on wood). If the Sandy Bridge is buggy in this department I haven't seen it (nor have I read anything on it, but I do not doubt you). I can only say it seems to be working flawlessly for me (so far).
> I'll 2nd that I would rather hear from someone on nit-picking as this is why we post, to learn. Everyone has a bit more knowledge than someone else in a certain area, and in this case I'm glad to hear from you. See the above answer (to 'Mathelm') as I checked with Corsairs site on the dimensions.


Do you think the corsair screws are coated ( maybe a lite powder coating), which is what makes them tighter?

Was big into RC a few years back myself. Then bought a Heli. Had to get back into computers because it was soooo much cheaper...lol Course all the new electric ones have me itching to try my hand again. They seem to be a lot less complex and the work on them/fly them time ratio seems to have gone from about 50 to 1, to 2 to 1.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> Or read the first post.


Didn't really see anything on the first post other then the sig display.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Didn't really see anything on the first post other then the sig display.


You're not alone in that you could not find anything on how to get added. I posted a screen shot of CPU-Z showing I had a qualifying motherboard and was added shortly after.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Hello All, Just snagged the Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 from the egg last night for $162 shipped. I have been wrestling with my Intel DZ68BC board for 2 weeks now and I'm sick of the lack of functionality so I made the switch. Really exited to have the support from the Asus community. I was really struggling with help on my Intel board and I know that's because there are very few enthusiasts that use Intel extreme boards. Anyways happy to join the club. Do I need to submit anything to make it "official"?

Thanks!


----------



## turrican9

Added the following:

*holcombrm, P8Z68-V/GEN3
selluminis, P8Z68-V/GEN3
Jayjr1105, P8Z68-V/GEN3
Corrupt, P8Z68-V/GEN3
jjr007, P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
wongwarren, P8P67 PRO
ranviper, P8P67
Favian, P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3
Ticko311, P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3*

Welcome!


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Added the following:
> 
> *holcombrm, P8Z68-V/GEN3
> selluminis, P8Z68-V/GEN3
> Jayjr1105, P8Z68-V/GEN3
> Corrupt, P8Z68-V/GEN3
> jjr007, P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> wongwarren, P8P67 PRO
> ranviper, P8P67
> Favian, P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3
> Ticko311, P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3*
> 
> Welcome!


Thanks!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Hello All, Just snagged the Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 from the egg last night for $162 shipped. I have been wrestling with my Intel DZ68BC board for 2 weeks now and I'm sick of the lack of functionality so I made the switch. Really exited to have the support from the Asus community. I was really struggling with help on my Intel board and I know that's because there are very few enthusiasts that use Intel extreme boards. Anyways happy to join the club. Do I need to submit anything to make it "official"?
> Thanks!


Congratz on the price. Got mine a couple of weeks ago from new egg for 189.00. You are lucky. This is the best place to come and learn. These guys are all great with the info they share. Most of my Oc knowledge has come from these guys. Hopefully, I will be able to contribute sometime.....


----------



## Crosby

Hey Guys,

So using some of the advise from here I have been messing around with Offset. I tried a bunch of different offset values with varying LLC and here is what I found:

offset vcore temp LLC
+0.02 1.36 70 high
+0.10 1.34 70 high
+.010 1.31 67 med
+.005 1.31 66 med
-.010 1.288 69 med
-.030 1.28 70 med

The Temps are not 100% accurate as I only ran Prime for about 5 minutes because I wanted to see what vcore would be used under load with the different Offset values. I had achieved a stable system using 1.250 vcore with manual settings but didn't want to use that much voltage all the time when the computer was sitting idle (which it does often when I am streaming media)

I then settled on and offset of +.20 with LLC set at Auto (which I think in my case seemed to disableit.) Now my system runs at 0.98-1.0 Vcore when idle and 1.288 or so when under load. Prime 95 ran for 4 hours without errors with the follwoing settings.

AI Overclock Tuner - XMP
BCLK/PCIE - 100.0
Turbo Ratio - By All Cores
By All Cores - 45
Internal PLL Overvoltage - Disabled
Memory Frequency DDR-1600
EPU Power Saving Mode - Disabled
Digi + VRM
Load - Line Calibration - Auto (The results make me believe it was Regular or 0%)
VRM Frequency Mode - 350
Phase Control - Standard
Duty Control - T.Probe
CPU Current Capability - 100%
CPU Voltage - Offset +0.020
Dram Voltage - 1.5000
VCCSA Voltage - Auto
VCCIO Voltage - Auto
CPU PLL Voltage - 1.60
PCH Voltage - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - Auto
CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio - Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor - Enabled
Active Processor Cores - All
Limit CPUID Maximum - Disabled
Execute Disable Bit - Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology - Disabled
Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology - Enabled
Turbo Mode - Enabled
CPU C1E - Auto
CPU C3 Report - Auto
CPU C6 Report - Enabled

Any suggestions on what I could tweak at this point. I know many people have mentioned that auto settings seem to over compensate and to use manual settings when possible. Do you see somewhere I should change or test further? The test previous I used an offset of +.010 and received an error on one of the cores in Prime 95, the below screens are when I used the above settings (+0.020) I may try +0.015 to see if it makes a difference in the temps but I'm sure it wont make much diffeence. I also think I need to set my fans higher. The temps are a bit high and would like to get them down to 70 under load, not sure which settings to play with to acheive that though.... I also have the option of taking the limitator of my CPU fan (it had a small cable which limits the rpm which I originally installed as I didnt think I needed it running so fast and it was a bit loud)





As always I appreciate any and all help!


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Added the following:
> 
> *holcombrm, P8Z68-V/GEN3
> selluminis, P8Z68-V/GEN3
> Jayjr1105, P8Z68-V/GEN3
> Corrupt, P8Z68-V/GEN3
> jjr007, P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> wongwarren, P8P67 PRO
> ranviper, P8P67
> Favian, P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3
> Ticko311, P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3*
> 
> Welcome!


Please add me, posted a screenshot a bunch of pages back.


----------



## Megatronbomb

Add me please!


----------



## Kenji

I have had this board for about 5 months now with a 2600K I used the Easy- OC option to overlock the CPU in the UFEI Bios is there any down side to this? Its been running no load its at 1.6Ghz and Under its at 4.6GHz and solid as.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji*
> 
> I have had this board for about 5 months now with a 2600K I used the Easy- OC option to overlock the CPU in the UFEI Bios is there any down side to this? Its been running no load its at 1.6Ghz and Under its at 4.6GHz and solid as.


The downside to this is that these auto overclocking usually puts more voltage through your processor than what it really needs. Try to lower the voltage on your core. You would get much better temperatures.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji*
> 
> I have had this board for about 5 months now with a 2600K I used the Easy- OC option to overlock the CPU in the UFEI Bios is there any down side to this? Its been running no load its at 1.6Ghz and Under its at 4.6GHz and solid as.


Personally I found it uses a little too much vCore for my liking. Its definitely not a bad tool though


----------



## Kenji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The downside to this is that these auto overclocking usually puts more voltage through your processor than what it really needs. Try to lower the voltage on your core. You would get much better temperatures.


Temps at idle is 29C and under load 50C-60C


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji*
> 
> Temps at idle is 29C and under load 50C-60C


Try to lower the voltage, you'll be surprised.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> Do you think the corsair screws are coated ( maybe a lite powder coating), which is what makes them tighter?
> Was big into RC a few years back myself. Then bought a Heli. Had to get back into computers because it was soooo much cheaper...lol Course all the new electric ones have me itching to try my hand again. They seem to be a lot less complex and the work on them/fly them time ratio seems to have gone from about 50 to 1, to 2 to 1.


You know I didn't think of that but they may just be coated a bit. They might even be painted aluminum screws too. Either way they fit better. I'm going to see if Corsair will send out a set of their screws (hopefully for a modest price, like just the postage) and then compare them to others. I'll let you know on that. You were killing me with the videos. I started small too and worked my way up to the big boys. I started building and flying the 6-7 foot wing spans with gas engines at the end of my RC years. I tried one heli (spent a fortune on it) but just couldn't get the hang of it, so I stayed with the planes. And (like you) I had to switch hobbies as RC is way too expensive. My last 'hurrah' was to build a Jet (with the real jet engine) but I opted out at the last minute as there was no RC fields around me (for 50 miles) that had a blacktop runway, which is what you need for them to takeoff and land from. Glad I didn't spend the cash as I realized then (and too late) I had spent the better part of $100K (from a law suit I won) on toys that fly. Oh well, I had a lot of fun and now I'm back to square one, broke. But happy as hell!! I will buy one more and that's one of the electric heli's you describe. For about thirty/forty bucks you get a heli a child can fly, the radio, and all the nessesary components to make it fly all in one kit. And best of all you can fly them in the house and drive the cats nuts....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Hello All, Just snagged the Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 from the egg last night for $162 shipped. I have been wrestling with my Intel DZ68BC board for 2 weeks now and I'm sick of the lack of functionality so I made the switch. Really exited to have the support from the Asus community. I was really struggling with help on my Intel board and I know that's because there are very few enthusiasts that use Intel extreme boards. Anyways happy to join the club. Do I need to submit anything to make it "official"?
> Thanks!


I knew if I waited a bit longer I could have gotten a better board. They always have good sales after Christmas. $162 is excellent for that board (shipped too)! But I must say that so far I've been very happy with my P8Z68-V-LE. It has worked 100% out of the box (as my other, older Asus boards have). I've always had good luck with Asus mobo's. I almost switched to AsRock, but decided against it when I found out they use less layers in their boards and that's how they can cram more bells & whistles on them for cheaper than other manufactures. Even though I would have Gen3 and a few more ports (of different varieties) I certainly didn't need them. I don't think I'll be getting any gen3 graphics in the near future and the port I was lacking on this board was a fire wire in which I bought a card for fifteen dollars and stuck it in one of the many slots I'll never use. Anyway, good price and good board, you'll be happy and there's tons of info on it right here.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Please add me, posted a screenshot a bunch of pages back.


I added you a long time ago. Check the list.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The downside to this is that these auto overclocking usually puts more voltage through your processor than what it really needs. Try to lower the voltage on your core. You would get much better temperatures.


Being that I am new to overclocking since I picked up my system, I used the ASUS AI Suite to overlock the CPU on my P8Z68V-PRO/GEN 3 board with I5-2500K. I've got it running at 4.3 and am happy with that speed. When running Prime95's Blend test, CPU-Z shows the core voltage to be about 1.32v and my temps are in the low 60'sC.

I'm not exactly where/how to try lowering my voltage as you suggest. Currently, the *CPU Voltage* setting is set to "Offset Mode" with the *Offset Mode Sign* set to "+" and the *CPU Voltage Offset* set to "Auto".

Can you suggest how to tweak these or other related settings so my voltage might be less? I realize there could be many other factors involved, I was just hoping maybe for a simple suggestion on where to start.

Thanks.


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji*
> 
> I have had this board for about 5 months now with a 2600K I used the Easy- OC option to overlock the CPU in the UFEI Bios is there any down side to this? Its been running no load its at 1.6Ghz and Under its at 4.6GHz and solid as.


Really? 4.6ghz?
That's a nice auto-tune.
Mine got stuck at 4.34 or so. Kinda annoying that it clocks the BLCK instead of the multiplier alone though.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Being that I am new to overclocking since I picked up my system, I used the ASUS AI Suite to overlock the CPU on my P8Z68V-PRO/GEN 3 board with I5-2500K. I've got it running at 4.3 and am happy with that speed. When running Prime95's Blend test, CPU-Z shows the core voltage to be about 1.32v and my temps are in the low 60'sC.
> I'm not exactly where/how to try lowering my voltage as you suggest. Currently, the *CPU Voltage* setting is set to "Offset Mode" with the *Offset Mode Sign* set to "+" and the *CPU Voltage Offset* set to "Auto".
> Can you suggest how to tweak these or other related settings so my voltage might be less? I realize there could be many other factors involved, I was just hoping maybe for a simple suggestion on where to start.
> Thanks.


1.32v is a little high for only 4.3Ghz. I could hit 4.5 stable with 1.32. However that is still well within a safe range and not bad for using the AI suite software to OC. If you can maybe just set a negative offset and test stability from there.


----------



## mathelm

Must be those hacking idiots protesting that new law they were considering. Internet was down here (over at least 3 states) from a little after 5am till after 7am....

Edit:

I received an "update" email on this thread:

*"Quote: Originally Posted by munaim1

woah what's going on^^

Some people have hit the 'wrong buttons' "*

and it's not here now. Plus when I started this reply, there was a double row of page buttons.... must be global warming.....


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> 1.32v is a little high for only 4.3Ghz. I could hit 4.5 stable with 1.32. However that is still well within a safe range and not bad for using the AI suite software to OC. If you can maybe just set a negative offset and test stability from there.


Thanks Jay. So, in order to set a negative offset, would I just have to set *Offset Mode Sign* to "-" ?


----------



## fommof

Add me guys...proud owner of a ASUS P8P67 EVO (firmware 2103) here and loving it...


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Being that I am new to overclocking since I picked up my system, I used the ASUS AI Suite to overlock the CPU on my P8Z68V-PRO/GEN 3 board with I5-2500K. I've got it running at 4.3 and am happy with that speed. When running Prime95's Blend test, CPU-Z shows the core voltage to be about 1.32v and my temps are in the low 60'sC.
> I'm not exactly where/how to try lowering my voltage as you suggest. Currently, the *CPU Voltage* setting is set to "Offset Mode" with the *Offset Mode Sign* set to "+" and the *CPU Voltage Offset* set to "Auto".
> Can you suggest how to tweak these or other related settings so my voltage might be less? I realize there could be many other factors involved, I was just hoping maybe for a simple suggestion on where to start.
> Thanks.


I would go into the BIOS and change the mode to Manual Mode. Then I'll lower the voltage from there. AI Suite II once took my chip to 4788MHz but with a voltage of 1.496. I could run 4.7 no problem with just 1.37.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I would go into the BIOS and change the mode to Manual Mode. Then I'll lower the voltage from there. AI Suite II once took my chip to 4788MHz but with a voltage of 1.496. I could run 4.7 no problem with just 1.37.


OK -- thanks. I set the CPU Voltage setting to "Manual" and then entered 1.280 as the voltage. I'm running Prime95 blend test now but so far my temps are 2-3 degrees C less than what they were before. CPU-Z is reporting 1.280 V so I presume my setting stuck. I am still not sure what VID is...I see those values in HWInfo64 as being 1.366 V for all cores.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> OK -- thanks. I set the CPU Voltage setting to "Manual" and then entered 1.280 as the voltage. I'm running Prime95 blend test now but so far my temps are 2-3 degrees C less than what they were before. CPU-Z is reporting 1.280 V so I presume my setting stuck. I am still not sure what VID is...I see those values in HWInfo64 as being 1.366 V for all cores.


Your VID is what the chips stock v-Core is IIRC (Dont quote me on this, its 2.30 AM over here







)

Trying to decide weather I want to get a GTX580, HD7970 or wait for the next lot of nVidia GPU's. Decisions, decisions


----------



## Jayjr1105

Hey guys got my P8Z68-V Gen 3 in today and installed it and its working great but I have a question. I ran speccy and it's showing the mobo temp at 60c at idle. That seems pretty high to me but maybe its normal or a misread by speccy.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Hey guys got my P8Z68-V Gen 3 in today and installed it and its working great but I have a question. I ran speccy and it's showing the mobo temp at 60c at idle. That seems pretty high to me but maybe its normal or a misread by speccy.


What does the motherboard temp read in the BIOS ?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Your VID is what the chips stock v-Core is IIRC (Dont quote me on this, its 2.30 AM over here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Trying to decide weather I want to get a GTX580, HD7970 or wait for the next lot of nVidia GPU's. Decisions, decisions


Waiting for something new to come out is just dumb. New things are coming out all the time.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Waiting for something new to come out is just dumb. New things are coming out all the time.


Good point, I just like some of the extra features on the Nvidia cards, but the 7970 just has so much raw power over the 580


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> What does the motherboard temp read in the BIOS ?


22c haha. I guess speccy just sucks.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Waiting for something new to come out is just dumb. New things are coming out all the time.


Not always (but yes, most of the time). It's kind of like hunting, you've got to wait for the right time to pull the trigger....


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Your VID is what the chips stock v-Core is IIRC (Dont quote me on this, its 2.30 AM over here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Sorry, had to quote you









So, since my VID is 1.366v, does manually setting the core voltage in BIOS to 1.280 basically override that? If so, it seems that this would be a good setting since it's lower than the VID. Or am I missing something?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Sorry, had to quote you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since my VID is 1.366v, does manually setting the core voltage in BIOS to 1.280 basically override that? If so, it seems that this would be a good setting since it's lower than the VID. Or am I missing something?


Yes, setting your Vcore manually overrides the VID. Actually it is not overrided. VID is simply an ID that is made as a base voltage for computation for your Offset voltage. So don't mind VID if you're using manual control.

Hope that helps.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yes, setting your Vcore manually overrides the VID. Actually it is not overrided. VID is simply an ID that is made as a base voltage for computation for your Offset voltage. So don't mind VID if you're using manual control.
> Hope that helps.


Thanks Kevin...that does clear things up for me.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Thanks Kevin...that does clear things up for me.


No problem


----------



## kevindd992002

Why can't ASUS release a new BIOS for the P8Z68-V/GEN3 that would serve as the counterpart for the recently released BIOS for the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 board? I mean they are practically the same board which have a minimal difference but why can't ASUS update the BIOS for the non-pro?


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why can't ASUS release a new BIOS for the P8Z68-V/GEN3 that would serve as the counterpart for the recently released BIOS for the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 board? I mean they are practically the same board which have a minimal difference but why can't ASUS update the BIOS for the non-pro?


Progress. They want you to buy the newer and better edition. Sales and issues will dictate which version gets priority as well. It would seem that they should take the most fully loaded board and focus on that bios and then omit features to trickle down the series but I guess manufacturers haven't figured that out yet.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Progress. They want you to buy the newer and better edition. Sales and issues will dictate which version gets priority as well. It would seem that they should take the most fully loaded board and focus on that bios and then omit features to trickle down the series but I guess manufacturers haven't figured that out yet.


Why not the case for the non-gen3 boards?


----------



## pross

Disaster... RMA'd my H100 and got it back today. Swapped the intel cooler for the new H100 and now will not boot!

VGA led lights up, goes out, same with the RAM led. Fans all spin up and the HD. Thats it, nothing from the monitor and no power to USB...my keyboard usually lights up.

So have i killed it? Tried resetting the bios, reseating the CPU/RAM, tried 1 different sticks in different slots. Tried both gfx cards in all 3 slots. Think it could be the PSU?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pross*
> 
> Disaster... RMA'd my H100 and got it back today. Swapped the intel cooler for the new H100 and now will not boot!
> VGA led lights up, goes out, same with the RAM led. Fans all spin up and the HD. Thats it, nothing from the monitor and no power to USB...my keyboard usually lights up.
> So have i killed it? Tried resetting the bios, reseating the CPU/RAM, tried 1 different sticks in different slots. Tried both gfx cards in all 3 slots. Think it could be the PSU?


Everything plugged in properly? Do you have a modular PSU? If so, is everything plugged in tight? I've had mine come loose on me on numerous occasions.

Is something grounding out the CPU in the back of the MB? Say a new mount you used? I've had that happen to me before, it took me 3 days to figure it out..... I decided to pull everything out of the case and everything started working. I switched the mounting bracket and the issue went away. Some how it was touching some stuff anf grounding them out I have no clue how but it was.. Come to think of it, I believe it ended up being the sticky pad that was on it.

So many things I could ask these are the first things I start thinking of based off my experience.

Also eliminate the Power switch on the case, unplug it and short out the power pin with a screw driver being extremely careful not to ground any chips out or anything along those lines..


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pross*
> 
> Disaster... RMA'd my H100 and got it back today. Swapped the intel cooler for the new H100 and now will not boot!
> VGA led lights up, goes out, same with the RAM led. Fans all spin up and the HD. Thats it, nothing from the monitor and no power to USB...my keyboard usually lights up.
> So have i killed it? Tried resetting the bios, reseating the CPU/RAM, tried 1 different sticks in different slots. Tried both gfx cards in all 3 slots. Think it could be the PSU?


Being that it's just the cooler you've changed out, I would like to think it's got be something loose. Course I would try unplugging the cpu fans and anything else "new" to your setup. If that doesn't work I'd assume it had to be a bad connection at the cpu pins. Maybe pop the cmos battery out while I was reseating it again.


----------



## mathelm

A bit off topic, but I'm sure like me, many of you considered one of the Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z/GEN3 motherboards. I'm really interested in the ROG connect. Just wondering why you chose the P8P67/P8Z68 if you had considered the Maximus. The lack of pci slots kind of throws me, but I have no cards in them now so I think maybe I don't need them. Plus the ROG would give my dell laptop something to do. It's been feeling lonely lately. The 2 card version is only $179.99 at newegg.....




Thanks for any thoughts you have on the subject...


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> Must be those hacking idiots protesting that new law they were considering. Internet was down here (over at least 3 states) from a little after 5am till after 7am....
> Edit:
> I received an "update" email on this thread:
> *"Quote: Originally Posted by munaim1
> woah what's going on^^
> Some people have hit the 'wrong buttons' "*
> and it's not here now. Plus when I started this reply, there was a double row of page buttons.... must be global warming.....


I tend to think it's Global Warming.....lol.....Although I did write my Congresswoman about it. Maybe that did it??








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Your VID is what the chips stock v-Core is IIRC (Dont quote me on this, its 2.30 AM over here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Trying to decide weather I want to get a GTX580, HD7970 or wait for the next lot of nVidia GPU's. Decisions, decisions


If you can wait, I would. Then you can put the Gen 3 to use as the next generation should be that. On a different note, cheap people like myself will wait until the new generation of video cards to come out then buy the top card that was like $500 last week and is now $99....Seems to happen all the time. Heck I remember wanting a 9800GT so bad but it was like a few hundred bucks. Now I own one and it was well under a hundred..I don't think you'll have too long to wait either (and if it helps, I'll be waiting too so I can get the GTX580 for a hundred when the other stuff comes out...lol...)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why can't ASUS release a new BIOS for the P8Z68-V/GEN3 that would serve as the counterpart for the recently released BIOS for the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 board? I mean they are practically the same board which have a minimal difference but why can't ASUS update the BIOS for the non-pro?


Just as 'Mercyflush 64 said. The only other way they'll do it is if they get enough folks complaining about the same (wrong) thing and then they'll put out a new bios update to fix everyone's complaint. Other than those two things....forget it....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pross*
> 
> Disaster... RMA'd my H100 and got it back today. Swapped the intel cooler for the new H100 and now will not boot!
> VGA led lights up, goes out, same with the RAM led. Fans all spin up and the HD. Thats it, nothing from the monitor and no power to USB...my keyboard usually lights up.
> So have i killed it? Tried resetting the bios, reseating the CPU/RAM, tried 1 different sticks in different slots. Tried both gfx cards in all 3 slots. Think it could be the PSU?


If that's all you did was install the H100 this shouldn't be happening. I'm inclined to believe it's a short in the least likely place as does other members of the forum. Did you change or fix (or even play with) anything else on the board, or just put the H100 in and that's all? Did you take the CPU out and re-seat it or just followed the instructions and put the holder on the back of the board and tighten down the thumb screws in a Cris-cross fashion on top of the CPU? Did you take a couple of Q-Tips and some Isopropyl Alcohol and wipe off the old TIM, being careful not to drip any alcohol down into the CPU or pins? Plug the fan into the CPU 4-pin on the board and the lead from the radiator (actually the lead from the pump) into the power 3-pin on the mobo? After all that, and it's still not working I would guess a bad PSU. But that shouldn't be either if it was just working fine.


----------



## pross

Thanks for the suggestions.

Dont need a power button, there is a reset and a power switch on the mobo. I'm going to put the intel cooler back on tomorrow and give that a try, PSU isn't modular.


----------



## Jayjr1105

What is the best BIOS to use for the P8Z68-V Gen3 board. I think mine came with something dated 9-16-2011 if I remember correctly. I know the most current BIOS isn't always the best. Thanks

Edit: Nevermind, I just checked Asus support site and its only showing one possible BIOS 0301 dated Oct 10 2011. Odd there's only one BIOS release.


----------



## munaim1

*NOTE TO ALL FROM MUNAIM1: I WILL TEMPORARILY TAKE OVER THREAD UNTIL TURRICAN9 RETURNS*

Updated OP:

fommof

Added


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Good point, I just like some of the extra features on the Nvidia cards, but the 7970 just has so much raw power over the 580


Probably getting a next gen Nvidia myself.
Thinking about SLIing my 560ti 448, but, meh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> A bit off topic, but I'm sure like me, many of you considered one of the Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z/GEN3 motherboards. I'm really interested in the ROG connect. Just wondering why you chose the P8P67/P8Z68 if you had considered the Maximus. The lack of pci slots kind of throws me, but I have no cards in them now so I think maybe I don't need them. Plus the ROG would give my dell laptop something to do. It's been feeling lonely lately. The 2 card version is only $179.99 at newegg.....
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any thoughts you have on the subject...


I went for the Deluxe instead of the Maximus because of;
1. The price. The Maximus is expensive, at least in Norway.
2. Second, and perhaps foremost, the reviews at Newegg. The Maximus had/has a ton of bad reviews regarding everything from dead memory slots to DOA-cards, while the Deluxe (when I was buying at least), had none. Not a single review with less than 4 Eggs. - And the single 4 Egg-Review was something like a bent fan-connector or something silly like that.

Side note!
I finally got the balls to try and connect my 1000W PSU that I thought had died on me again, and it works!
- Finally I can actually enjoy my PC without using headphones! ^___^


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolvik*
> 
> I went for the Deluxe instead of the Maximus because of;
> 1. The price. The Maximus is expensive, at least in Norway.
> 2. Second, and perhaps foremost, the reviews at Newegg. The Maximus had/has a ton of bad reviews regarding everything from dead memory slots to DOA-cards, while the Deluxe (when I was buying at least), had none. Not a single review with less than 4 Eggs. - And the single 4 Egg-Review was something like a bent fan-connector or something silly like that.


This one (the micro board) is actually $75 less than the deluxe and the same price as the pro. 10-5 star and 1-4 star review. As of right now the high dollar Maximus actually has a slight edge on the Deluxe in the reviews. But I always figure that anything below 30% (adding the 1 and 2 star count) negative is a good item. I personally like a standard size ATX board, so the size is a minus for me, but not a deal breaker. The only real things that make this board interesting to me is the ROG, the game first intel network and the 5 4-pin fan connectors. But mainly the ROG....

I've been planning on the p8z68- pro/gen3 (which is the reason I've been reading this thread for the past week or two), and just happen to hear about the ROG stuff. Was just hopping to hear from some here like lolvik who considered the Maximus and chose the p8z68/7 instead, and why. Any educated guesses are also welcomed...

Thanks for the reply....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pross*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions.
> Dont need a power button, there is a reset and a power switch on the mobo. I'm going to put the intel cooler back on tomorrow and give that a try, PSU isn't modular.


Any updates?


----------



## Badwrench

Hello all, I just picked up a P8Z68-V-LE and am having some problems. At first it wouldn't post with onboard video, so I tried with my spare gpu. I reset the cmos after every attempt and change. All fans work, hdd spins up, led lights up. I reset one more time and went back to onboard and now I am getting a screen that says:

Warning! BIOS Recovery Mode has been detected. Please put the file "P8Z68VLE.ROM" into a removable usb media device, and reset computer.

This is new to me, as I am fairly new to computers. I have tried resetting the cmos again and am still getting the same message.

Any Ideas? Also, I am getting 2 short beeps when I hook up an mobo speaker.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Hello all, I just picked up a P8Z68-V-LE and am having some problems. At first it wouldn't post with onboard video, so I tried with my spare gpu. I reset the cmos after every attempt and change. All fans work, hdd spins up, led lights up. I reset one more time and went back to onboard and now I am getting a screen that says:
> Warning! BIOS Recovery Mode has been detected. Please put the file "P8Z68VLE.ROM" into a removable usb media device, and reset computer.
> This is new to me, as I am fairly new to computers. I have tried resetting the cmos again and am still getting the same message.
> Any Ideas? Also, I am getting 2 short beeps when I hook up an mobo speaker.


I'm not an expert, but that sounds like a failed bios update (ie. power off in the middle of it). Is it an open box or recertified motherboard?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> I'm not an expert, but that sounds like a failed bios update (ie. power off in the middle of it). Is it an open box or recertified motherboard?


Open box unfortunately. Was a great deal and now I know why. Any way to fix it, or do I just return it?


----------



## pioneerisloud

You could try to flash the BIOS, and see if that works. If that doesn't fix it, then I'd return it.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> You could try to flash the BIOS, and see if that works. If that doesn't fix it, then I'd return it.


I agree. btw, almost all of my stuff has been "open box" and I've yet to have a problem, so don't give up on them.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> I agree. btw, almost all of my stuff has been "open box" and I've yet to have a problem, so don't give up on them.


I will give it a run. Most of my stuff is used or open box as well. This is the first item that hasn't worked with a little fiddling.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> You could try to flash the BIOS, and see if that works. If that doesn't fix it, then I'd return it.


Still no go. I have the latest bios on a FAT32 formatted usb drive, but it just doesn't seem to be reacting to anything. I let it sit for an hour. Was this long enough? It just stays on the Warning screen with a flashing cursor.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> You could try to flash the BIOS, and see if that works. If that doesn't fix it, then I'd return it.
> 
> 
> 
> Still no go. I have the latest bios on a FAT32 formatted usb drive, but it just doesn't seem to be reacting to anything. I let it sit for an hour. Was this long enough? It just stays on the Warning screen with a flashing cursor.
Click to expand...

Sounds like it was definitely a busted BIOS flash then. You have 2 choices as I see it. RMA it with newegg, and see if they can send you back one that works or refund you. Or you can RMA it with Asus, and let them fix it. Your call really. Asus would easily fix it up for you, but its up to you at this point who you want to go through.


----------



## mathelm

I would also check the Asus forums to see if there's a certain procedure to flashing it or any kind of quick fix. Asus might could just send you a new bios chip. Also you might try different usb ports, I know some people have had issues with mice n such on certain ports when booting to bios.


----------



## Badwrench

Yeah, I am gonna try to RMA it. I got way too good of a deal to take it back.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> I would also check the Asus forums to see if there's a certain procedure to flashing it or any kind of quick fix. Asus might could just send you a new bios chip. Also you might try different usb ports, I know some people have had issues with mice n such on certain ports.


I am going to call Asus support in the morning to see what they can do. I already tried every usb port just in case.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> I would also check the Asus forums to see if there's a certain procedure to flashing it or any kind of quick fix. Asus might could just send you a new bios chip. Also you might try different usb ports, I know some people have had issues with mice n such on certain ports.
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to call Asus support in the morning to see what they can do. I already tried every usb port just in case.
Click to expand...

You'll have to pay to ship it to them (as always with RMA's). Expect about 2 weeks until you get the replacement (total). Asus's RMA process really isn't all that bad at all honestly.

And yes, definitely call them. I've found you always tend to get better support over the phone, so long as you're polite.


----------



## csm725

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> You'll have to pay to ship it to them (as always with RMA's). Expect about 2 weeks until you get the replacement (total). Asus's RMA process really isn't all that bad at all honestly.
> And yes, definitely call them. I've found you always tend to get better support over the phone, so long as you're polite.


I had the replacement at my US address 3 days after I called them (P8P67 Pro).


----------



## Jayjr1105

@ pioneerisloud, Nice to see you here in the SB forums, I remember you helping me overclock my Athlon 640


----------



## Katakis

*munaim1*

Thanks man. Means alot









Please remember to update the counter at the bottom of the members list









Again, thanks!


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Katakis*
> 
> *munaim1*
> 
> Thanks man. Means alot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember to update the counter at the bottom of the members list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, thanks!


Yeah will do, no problem









Happy to help and I hope for your swift return


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pross*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions.
> Dont need a power button, there is a reset and a power switch on the mobo. I'm going to put the intel cooler back on tomorrow and give that a try, PSU isn't modular.


I like the idea of the power button on the mobo...Anyway, any luck? What happened?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> *NOTE TO ALL FROM MUNAIM1: I WILL TEMPORARILY TAKE OVER THREAD UNTIL TURRICAN9 RETURNS*
> Updated OP:
> fommof
> Added


So, is Turrican9 away on another bender? (Just kidding, I know he like his booze.







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Hello all, I just picked up a P8Z68-V-LE and am having some problems. At first it wouldn't post with onboard video, so I tried with my spare gpu. I reset the cmos after every attempt and change. All fans work, hdd spins up, led lights up. I reset one more time and went back to onboard and now I am getting a screen that says:
> Warning! BIOS Recovery Mode has been detected. Please put the file "P8Z68VLE.ROM" into a removable usb media device, and reset computer.
> This is new to me, as I am fairly new to computers. I have tried resetting the cmos again and am still getting the same message.
> Any Ideas? Also, I am getting 2 short beeps when I hook up an mobo speaker.


I have this board. Just put it together right after the holidays. I had two issue's, first it had the oldest BIOS on it. I used their 'easy flash' (or whatever they call it) and flashed to the newest. No problems in flashing. Went smooth and I used a USB media device also. The 2nd problem was simular to yours in I couldn't get a screen from my Nvidia card. So I used the HDMI and the on board graphics to boot the system, etc. I could see what was going on. I then tried the graphics card in the blue slot (x2) and it worked fine. I then switched it over to the black slot (x16) and again I couldn't see a thing. Well I found that it needed to reboot several times before the card would finally kick in and work. Now it's working flawlessly.

I would suggest this....First make sure that you have all the latest drivers. The ones on the disk they give you are only enough to get the board to boot. Once you have your OS on, then get the latest drivers (they're right here on the board, just do a search for drivers and they have them all for every mobo out for Asus). If that doesn't work, I'm with the other guys. RMA either to New Egg or Asus, your choice. And I'm sorry to hear you're having a problem with a Asus board. It maybe the open box, it may not. Good luck!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I had the replacement at my US address 3 days after I called them (P8P67 Pro).


WoW...That's quick!


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> I like the idea of the power button on the mobo...Anyway, any luck? What happened?
> So, is Turrican9 away on another bender? (Just kidding, I know he like his booze.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> I have this board. Just put it together right after the holidays. I had two issue's, first it had the oldest BIOS on it. I used their 'easy flash' (or whatever they call it) and flashed to the newest. No problems in flashing. Went smooth and I used a USB media device also. The 2nd problem was simular to yours in I couldn't get a screen from my Nvidia card. So I used the HDMI and the on board graphics to boot the system, etc. I could see what was going on. I then tried the graphics card in the blue slot (x2) and it worked fine. I then switched it over to the black slot (x16) and again I couldn't see a thing. Well I found that it needed to reboot several times before the card would finally kick in and work. Now it's working flawlessly.
> I would suggest this....First make sure that you have all the latest drivers. The ones on the disk they give you are only enough to get the board to boot. Once you have your OS on, then get the latest drivers (they're right here on the board, just do a search for drivers and they have them all for every mobo out for Asus). If that doesn't work, I'm with the other guys. RMA either to New Egg or Asus, your choice. And I'm sorry to hear you're having a problem with a Asus board. It maybe the open box, it may not. Good luck!
> WoW...That's quick!


I would love to get the latest drivers, but I cant even get into bios. I have been on the phone with tech support and they are saying it is a corrupt bios. RMA time


----------



## selluminis

Anyone having issues with esata on the Asus P8Z68-v/Gen3? I cannot get my esata external to show up at all. When I connect USB 2.0 it works fine....Have all of the most recent sata drivers from intel....


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Anyone having issues with esata on the Asus P8Z68-v/Gen3? I cannot get my esata external to show up at all. When I connect USB 2.0 it works fine....Have all of the most recent sata drivers from intel....


eSATA is on JMicron controller I think (JMB).

1. check in the bios (advanced / onboard devices configuration), JMB controller must be "enabled"
2. load JMicron drivers (check on asus website or here)

MaX

P.S.
Got my one 2 days ago


----------



## lowirve

I hate to ask this again, but I am still confused about Internal PLL Voltage and CPU Spread Spectrum when I tried to oc my 2500k. Seems most of people are saying PLL could be disabled if I am not trying to oc to more than 45x. But when it comes to spread spectrum, some are saying turn it off, the other are saying keeping it enabled could make ocing better. Any conclusion on this?

Right now, I could oc my 2500k to [email protected] with both of them disabled.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> eSATA is on JMicron controller I think (JMB).
> 1. check in the bios (advanced / onboard devices configuration), JMB controller must be "enabled"
> 2. load JMicron drivers (check on asus website or here)
> MaX
> P.S.
> Got my one 2 days ago


JMB is enabled. Wondering if cable is bad or something. Worked a couple of days ago....


----------



## Deano12345

The bottom PCIE slot, enough bandwidth for a PhysX card ? Some Nvidia cards are getting cheap so I'm tempted to pick one up.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> The bottom PCIE slot, enough bandwidth for a PhysX card ? Some Nvidia cards are getting cheap so I'm tempted to pick one up.


To get x4 out of the slot you have to disable several things, but yeah it should be usable even at that bottleneck.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> I would love to get the latest drivers, but I cant even get into bios. I have been on the phone with tech support and they are saying it is a corrupt bios. RMA time


Ah, yes...That does present a problem. Just RMA... It's a great board and you'll like it a lot once it's right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Anyone having issues with esata on the Asus P8Z68-v/Gen3? I cannot get my esata external to show up at all. When I connect USB 2.0 it works fine....Have all of the most recent sata drivers from intel....


Isn't there something about the outboard eSATA shares one of the internal slots and you can't use both at the same time? (Just a thought.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> The bottom PCIE slot, enough bandwidth for a PhysX card ? Some Nvidia cards are getting cheap so I'm tempted to pick one up.


Yup, they are (and that's why I'll get a new one soon, let the prices keep falling.) This kind of indicates that they'll soon be coming out with the next generation of chips (gen3?) which will drive the prices even further down. But to answer your question, I agree the blue slot will have enough bandwidth for it.


----------



## atibbo69

I have the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3

And I downloaded the ASUS AI Suite utility, opened TURBO V EVO

hit auto tune button and now my 2500k is overclocked to 4.5ghz

was it supposed to be that easy??? :S


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Isn't there something about the outboard eSATA shares one of the internal slots and you can't use both at the same time? (Just a thought.)


That is what I thought, but my front esata does not work either and it is connected into one of the internal sata plugs directly. Plus, I think that only happens when there are 2 esata connectors on the i/o panel. I did not change any of the cables, except to unhook one of the Hdds and hook up a ssd to the sata III connector, and esata was working a couple of days ago. Wish I had another esata cable to try with out having to buy one.


----------



## selluminis

Now I am having another issue. The BT periphial device is not being installed for some reason.



I have installed all of the BT drivers. This only started after my most recent reformat. Not sure what this is.......


----------



## johnnybravo

Hello,

Just got all my stuff set up....May I join the Asus motherboard club?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2209443

JB


----------



## johnnybravo

I believe that is your Bluetooth device...You could download it here http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68VGEN3/#download

Your motherboard had built in Bluetooth. Hope this help.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybravo*
> 
> I believe that is your Bluetooth device...You could download it here http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68VGEN3/#download
> Your motherboard had built in Bluetooth. Hope this help.


Thanks for the help. I have already downloaded that driver. That is what is confusing me.... I can connect my phone via BT, but can only use the PC to control music. When I tried to transfer pics or anything, it will not work. This was working before I reformatted. Not sure what it going on...


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Thanks for the help. I have already downloaded that driver. That is what is confusing me.... I can connect my phone via BT, but can only use the PC to control music. When I tried to transfer pics or anything, it will not work. This was working before I reformatted. Not sure what it going on...


Maybe I will try to uninstall and reinstall...


----------



## speedlever

I use eSATA all the time on my P8Z68V-pro/1101. I have an external HD connected via eSATA. No issues at all.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Maybe I will try to uninstall and reinstall...


well, that did not work


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> I use eSATA all the time on my P8Z68V-pro/1101. I have an external HD connected via eSATA. No issues at all.


hoping i just have a bad cable.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybravo*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Just got all my stuff set up....May I join the Asus motherboard club?
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2209443
> 
> JB


Added, welcome to the club


----------



## lolvik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> I have the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> And I downloaded the ASUS AI Suite utility, opened TURBO V EVO
> hit auto tune button and now my 2500k is overclocked to 4.5ghz
> was it supposed to be that easy??? :S


Borderline sad, but yeah, it is. C:


----------



## atibbo69

Guys I used TwoCables template for his stable Core i5 [email protected] overclock

and when I reset my computer just freezes at the windows loading screen.

What should I do?

My 2500k is liquid cooled

Highest I can go is 4.5GHZ soon as I overclock to 4.6 or above it will freeze

Do I adjust the off set voltage higher? Right now I have it set to 0.030V for a 4.5GHZ OC


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Guys I used TwoCables template for his stable Core i5 [email protected] overclock
> and when I reset my computer just freezes at the windows loading screen.
> What should I do?
> My 2500k is liquid cooled
> Highest I can go is 4.5GHZ soon as I overclock to 4.6 or above it will freeze
> Do I adjust the off set voltage higher? Right now I have it set to 0.030V for a 4.5GHZ OC


Did you try PLL overvoltage = enabled?

Most SB chips don't go past 4.5 GHz with pll overvoltage disabled.

Without knowing your vid it is hard to predict if it is safe to go higher in offset mode wich you are in. It's better to first note the vid for a stable 4.5 GHz. And try to find you highest stable clock with vcore manually. After that it's just calculatating wich it could be in offset mode.

To get higher clockspeeds just put the vcore in where 4.5 GHz is stable and just go to 4.6. If that chrashes you need a little more vcore Don't take giant leaps rather take baby steps. Keep it below 1.4 Volt ish.. You don't want to burn the chip just for finding a stable high clockspeed now do you? Once you find out what the max safe is then you can start doing offset mode. Takes a while i know but this is the way to over clock a SB chip.

What speed are you aiming for. 4.5 GHz is a very nice clock speed if it's stable.

Remember no SB is the same so templates are a waist of time really!


----------



## atibbo69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Did you try PLL overvoltage = enabled?
> Most SB chips don't go past 4.5 GHz with pll overvoltage disabled.
> Without knowing your vid it is hard to predict if it is safe to go higher in offset mode wich you are in. It's better to first note the vid for a stable 4.5 GHz. And try to find you highest stable clock with vcore manually. After that it's just calculatating wich it could be in offset mode.
> To get higher clockspeeds just put the vcore in where 4.5 GHz is stable and just go to 4.6. If that chrashes you need a little more vcore Don't take giant leaps rather take baby steps. Keep it below 1.4 Volt ish.. You don't want to burn the chip just for finding a stable high clockspeed now do you? Once you find out what the max safe is then you can start doing offset mode. Takes a while i know but this is the way to over clock a SB chip.
> What speed are you aiming for. 4.5 GHz is a very nice clock speed if it's stable.
> Remember no SB is the same so templates are a waist of time really!


Okay I've been testing, lots of BSOD lol. I'm at 1.330V now

I have C3/C6 states enabled, LLC set to high and PLL enabled.

VID is 1.3711 v at 100% load on all cores -blend test prime95

Should I lower the volts?

*edit*

BSOD after 15 minutes of Prime95

So I upped the voltage to 1.340
VID is still 1.3711 v at 100% cpu usage


----------



## kevindd992002

Can anyone here with the Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3 board confirm that they also don't have the option to change the VCCSA voltage in the BIOS?


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Okay I've been testing, lots of BSOD lol. I'm at 1.330V now
> I have C3/C6 states enabled, LLC set to high and PLL enabled.
> VID is 1.3711 v at 100% load on all cores -blend test prime95
> Should I lower the volts?
> *edit*
> BSOD after 15 minutes of Prime95
> So I upped the voltage to 1.340
> VID is still 1.3711 v at 100% cpu usage


Finding the max is easier with c3/c6 disabled. First make it stable at 4.5 GHz with not too much LLC (normal or high). I have to say if the chip wants 1.3711 @4.5 for a vid is high. Probably the chip will not like doing much more as it is First find the vcore amount you need with LLC not too high. Try punching in the highest vid to start with and then slowly step down. Baby steps remember until the chip is not stable anymore. If you get a BSOD then up a notch again and voila you found a good indicator. Now subtract the vcore form the vid and you end up with a number. Keep this in mind. This could be the chips sweetspot for going higher then 4.5. Then step it it up a notch and so on. Keep on writing the difference between vid and real vcore. You need that number for calculating the offset later. And so on and so on. Takes a while but then you can get there.

Also read the first few posts of this thread. And don't send me private messages when you can easily post your questions here in the forum. Why you do that is beyond me?

Anyway good luck and if you have any other questions feel free to post them here in the forum.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Finding the max is easier with c3/c6 disabled. First make it stable at 4.5 GHz with not too much LLC (normal or high). I have to say if the chip wants 1.3711 @4.5 for a vid is high. Probably the chip will not like doing much more as it is First find the vcore amount you need with LLC not too high. Try punching in the highest vid to start with and then slowly step down. Baby steps remember until the chip is not stable anymore. If you get a BSOD then up a notch again and voila you found a good indicator. Now subtract the vcore form the vid and you end up with a number. Keep this in mind. This could be the chips sweetspot for going higher then 4.5. Then step it it up a notch and so on. Keep on writing the difference between vid and real vcore. You need that number for calculating the offset later. And so on and so on. Takes a while but then you can get there.
> Also read the first few posts of this thread. And don't send me private messages when you can easily post your questions here in the forum. Why you do that is beyond me?
> Anyway good luck and if you have any other questions feel free to post them here in the forum.


Why not do 45x already with UH LLC?


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why not do 45x already with UH LLC?


With LLC on max you will never know what your Vdroop is gonna look like. LLC is something to correct things later on not an option that should be on max SB is designed to handle Vdroop.


----------



## madchemist83

my vcore jumps to 1.440 even though I set it manual .. why?


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> my vcore jumps to 1.440 even though I set it manual .. why?


In idle or under load? Did you max out LLC?


----------



## Mieske666

Comeon guys. Without knowing conditions and settings it's impossible to answer any questions.


----------



## Alex132

Thought you guys might want to see something special;


Spoiler: fanboys lol



Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> Let me guess Fluke. You ONLY buy ASUS?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, this is my first ASUS motherboard (and soundcard), actually my first ASUS product. I had an MSI motherboard before this one.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> Why is that? Do note that I have to deal with ASUS GIGA MSI ECS JETWAY and some other random brand as part of work. and the quality of mobo and the features have slowly started to degrade with ASUS mobos. they arn't what they use to be.. And I think Nyt will agree with me on this. It seems that LONG term ASUS fans just buy asus as they believe its the best come hell or high water.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well.... I don't? And they aren't getting better/worse, they are staying pretty high-up and good quality. For example the records for graphics cards overclocks will always be a battle between the ASUS custom PCB cards and the MSI custom PCB cards. ATI or Nvidia.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> But as of late the Budget, Mid-Range and HIGH-END have been mediocre to say the least.. We've moved from selling ASUS as CHEAPY Budget Mobo, ASUS MID-Range, ASUS High end. to GIGA CHEAPYs, Mid-rage and high end.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Intel Budget - P8P67m, mid-range - ROG IVGENE-Z / P8P67 Pro, high-end - Maximus IV Extreme (Intel)
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> The EXTREME end aka the ROG and the Snipers are equal
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> WOAH GONNA STOP RIGHT THERE. At least the ROG has TASTEFUL design! No stupid guns / bullets on it. Matte-black and red = <3
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> in the fact that the ROG offers more features than the SNIPERS do. yet the Snipers are more liked by the OLD School over clockers that push that every little MHZ.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No? That would be boards like the Gigabyte X58 OC. The Snipers looks cheesy and aimed towards nothing more than 'gamers' IMO.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> Not the snazzy interface.. Must say that ASROCK has been coming up in the world after "Fatal1ty" moved in...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Their gold-caps do look nice~
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> I aint BIAS to GIGA. I'm BIAS to not buying over-priced under featured MOBOs. Yet I cannot comment further on this topic. Please create a NEW THREAD if you wish to continue this discussion...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You sound a bit biased AGAINST ASUS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not biased for them at all, I just wont say that they are worse than Gigabyte. When I wanted to purchase my 1155 motherboard I heard great things about Gigabyte, but at the end of the day I had only R2K to spend on a new motherboard. With this money I could have either got the P8P67 Pro (12+4 vrms IIRC) or the Gigabyte UD3 (blue PCB one with decent VRM count or black PCB one with very low PCB count) and it had a lot less features. So I chose the ASUS P8P67 Pro. I personally do not like Gigabyte's color-schemes and their prices were too high compared to ASUS at that time.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> I'd disagree. The MIVE is dominating top five positions in most benchmarks, and as for LGA 2011 not having OC specific boards?? Gigabyte has a UD7 out, there's the Asus RIVE...
> 
> Oh, and on a side note... You're going to degrade your CPU rapidly with that voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> Running 1.35v 4.5Ghz 24/7 or something, and I have never seen any SB degrading for 'normal' voltages (>1.52v). Also I was referring to boards like the X58 OC. A board designed for one purpose, to overclock.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168779*
> WOW, way da go biting my head off. sorry I mentioned it... Still doesnt change the fact that for the same features you pay MORE for a ASUS mobo than Gigabyte.
> And the GIGA EFI I have no comment on have not checked it out. But that would then push me in ASROCK direction.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> BIOS is boring, EUFI is nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly when I was switching to a new motherboard I thought it would be full of crap
> decals and things just made to make it look nice, but it really isnt that.
> I would say that it a very nicely labelled and laid-out BIOS that you can use the mouse in. Also the when the P67 boards were new ASUS had one of the best bang-for-buck features available! For R2K I got a very good VRM count (12+4), very low voltage / bclk fluctuation (not that I keep it on 'auto'), nice looks, bluetooth sync / overclock / monitor / monitor stats from phone anywhere (nice when I am folding on my rig and I am very far away from it), SLI/CrossfireX, MemOK! (love this for new RAM that doesnt boot), EPU, USB 3.0, etc.
> For a 'similar' price (R380 more) the UD4 comes with 12+4 VRM phases too, EPU(gigabytes form), Dual BIOS, USB 3.0, SLI/Crossfire and that is all.
> 
> From my point of view, why pay more for the Gigabyte board? They practically have the same things (apart from Bluetooth and MemOK!).
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> Take RAM for instance. His need for a MOBO was minimum of 10 Sata ports... 2 PCIE 16 and 2 PCIE 1.0. OH. not to forget the limit of ATX only not EL-ATX
> 
> Show me LGA2011 ASUS mobo that has that? None that I know of? (Sata ports is a MUST)
> The Alternative was the UD7, then the ASROCK. Which after alot of reading the ASROCK Extreme 9 was the better buy.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All 2011 boards seem to be EL-ATX (not sure about the few, but most with 10 SATA ports will be). Also if you want a board based only on SATA ports, then Gigabyte does seem to have more. But honestly, I would way rather pay less or get better features other the wanting one that HAS TO HAVE 10 SATA ports. You do get PCI-E SATA cards.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> But yeah, like I said, ASUS lovers only love ASUS.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And like I said I dont love ASUS, first time I bought from them. You just hate ASUS, and I am standing up for something them.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> I was a long tym ASUS lover from the 478 days. But to compare every Mobo listed in both ASUS and GIGA camp. the equivalent supporting featured mobo is 300-400 more expensive from ASUS than GIGA.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wat.
> 
> P8P67 Pro R2000/2100
> P67 UD4 R2300/R2400
> 
> P8P67-m Pro R1600/1700
> UD3R R1700/R1800
> 
> (all from Landmarkpc.co.za)
> 
> So ASUS seems to be cheaper and have more/same amount of features?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> DO NOTE. P67 has no onboard therefore has No relavance to me. I P67 in a way is going back a generation :/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Um ok? I can't see anything other than the iGPU that it lacks, mainstream-wise (but then get the Z68 series?)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> Question:
> Budget of +-1500 - HAS TO HAVE onboard
> Mid-Range of +-2100 - ONBOARD does not matter but 4x Sata 6G does
> HIGH of 2500+ - NO ONBOARD Best Price HIGH end.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> See above
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> But PLEASE PLEASE Make a new thread. I'd be glad to comment there. Also it will be short lived as I cannot post about the prices.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you want...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> Last question. Why is it that Nyt and Silverlight agree with me on the ASUS matter but everyone else has different opinion? Is it because Nyt and Silver dnt have ASUS mobos and the rest of you all do?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's because everyone has their own opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really cant see where you're getting Gigabyte having a great price/value from. The ASUS P8P67 Pro became hugely popular because of its low-price and high-feature count / performance.
Click to expand...


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> I have the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> And I downloaded the ASUS AI Suite utility, opened TURBO V EVO
> hit auto tune button and now my 2500k is overclocked to 4.5ghz
> was it supposed to be that easy??? :S


Did Asus AI Suite crash or act funny yet? I ask because it seems to me that 50% of the guys here vote that the AI Suite is buggy and not very useable (me too) and the other 50% have no problems with it. I've got to wonder if the design of some Asus boards differ greatly from others and it only works well on one and not another. They had good intentions on writing a program like this, but if it doesn't work right on 50% of the boards and the other 50% works well, that leaves me scratching my head. Is it poorly written or is it the boards design? Just downloaded the Ai Suite again and will try again. (I got so fed up with it the last time I not only cleaned it off my HHD's and registry, I erased the program too...) I'll let you know if I have any better luck this time around. You seem to be doing well with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> That is what I thought, but my front esata does not work either and it is connected into one of the internal sata plugs directly. Plus, I think that only happens when there are 2 esata connectors on the i/o panel. I did not change any of the cables, except to unhook one of the Hdds and hook up a ssd to the sata III connector, and esata was working a couple of days ago. Wish I had another esata cable to try with out having to buy one.


Hmmmm, well after reading this (and the other posts) it's got to be the cable. I was going to suggest re-installing every thing, but you did that and still no-go. I say try a new cable and if that doesn't solve the problem (and I hate saying this) maybe a small crack or bad solder joint on the mobo itself? But that doesn't make sense as it would be intermittent and it's not. There has to be something more that you did to have it stop working all of a sudden. Can you remember all the steps you took up until it quit working? (Another thought..) Maybe a defective SATA device?.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> well, that did not work


Did you do a new clean install?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Thought you guys might want to see something special;
> 
> 
> Spoiler: fanboys lol
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> Let me guess Fluke. You ONLY buy ASUS?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, this is my first ASUS motherboard (and soundcard), actually my first ASUS product. I had an MSI motherboard before this one.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> Why is that? Do note that I have to deal with ASUS GIGA MSI ECS JETWAY and some other random brand as part of work. and the quality of mobo and the features have slowly started to degrade with ASUS mobos. they arn't what they use to be.. And I think Nyt will agree with me on this. It seems that LONG term ASUS fans just buy asus as they believe its the best come hell or high water.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well.... I don't? And they aren't getting better/worse, they are staying pretty high-up and good quality. For example the records for graphics cards overclocks will always be a battle between the ASUS custom PCB cards and the MSI custom PCB cards. ATI or Nvidia.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> But as of late the Budget, Mid-Range and HIGH-END have been mediocre to say the least.. We've moved from selling ASUS as CHEAPY Budget Mobo, ASUS MID-Range, ASUS High end. to GIGA CHEAPYs, Mid-rage and high end.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Intel Budget - P8P67m, mid-range - ROG IVGENE-Z / P8P67 Pro, high-end - Maximus IV Extreme (Intel)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> The EXTREME end aka the ROG and the Snipers are equal
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> WOAH GONNA STOP RIGHT THERE. At least the ROG has TASTEFUL design! No stupid guns / bullets on it. Matte-black and red = <3
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> in the fact that the ROG offers more features than the SNIPERS do. yet the Snipers are more liked by the OLD School over clockers that push that every little MHZ.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No? That would be boards like the Gigabyte X58 OC. The Snipers looks cheesy and aimed towards nothing more than 'gamers' IMO.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> Not the snazzy interface.. Must say that ASROCK has been coming up in the world after "Fatal1ty" moved in...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Their gold-caps do look nice~
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168733*
> I aint BIAS to GIGA. I'm BIAS to not buying over-priced under featured MOBOs. Yet I cannot comment further on this topic. Please create a NEW THREAD if you wish to continue this discussion...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You sound a bit biased AGAINST ASUS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not biased for them at all, I just wont say that they are worse than Gigabyte. When I wanted to purchase my 1155 motherboard I heard great things about Gigabyte, but at the end of the day I had only R2K to spend on a new motherboard. With this money I could have either got the P8P67 Pro (12+4 vrms IIRC) or the Gigabyte UD3 (blue PCB one with decent VRM count or black PCB one with very low PCB count) and it had a lot less features. So I chose the ASUS P8P67 Pro. I personally do not like Gigabyte's color-schemes and their prices were too high compared to ASUS at that time.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> I'd disagree. The MIVE is dominating top five positions in most benchmarks, and as for LGA 2011 not having OC specific boards?? Gigabyte has a UD7 out, there's the Asus RIVE...
> Oh, and on a side note... You're going to degrade your CPU rapidly with that voltage.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Running 1.35v 4.5Ghz 24/7 or something, and I have never seen any SB degrading for 'normal' voltages (>1.52v). Also I was referring to boards like the X58 OC. A board designed for one purpose, to overclock.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *§~Sir.ÐJ.Neo~§;168779*
> WOW, way da go biting my head off. sorry I mentioned it... Still doesnt change the fact that for the same features you pay MORE for a ASUS mobo than Gigabyte.
> And the GIGA EFI I have no comment on have not checked it out. But that would then push me in ASROCK direction.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> BIOS is boring, EUFI is nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly when I was switching to a new motherboard I thought it would be full of crap
> decals and things just made to make it look nice, but it really isnt that.
> I would say that it a very nicely labelled and laid-out BIOS that you can use the mouse in. Also the when the P67 boards were new ASUS had one of the best bang-for-buck features available! For R2K I got a very good VRM count (12+4), very low voltage / bclk fluctuation (not that I keep it on 'auto'), nice looks, bluetooth sync / overclock / monitor / monitor stats from phone anywhere (nice when I am folding on my rig and I am very far away from it), SLI/CrossfireX, MemOK! (love this for new RAM that doesnt boot), EPU, USB 3.0, etc.
> For a 'similar' price (R380 more) the UD4 comes with 12+4 VRM phases too, EPU(gigabytes form), Dual BIOS, USB 3.0, SLI/Crossfire and that is all.
> From my point of view, why pay more for the Gigabyte board? They practically have the same things (apart from Bluetooth and MemOK!).
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> Take RAM for instance. His need for a MOBO was minimum of 10 Sata ports... 2 PCIE 16 and 2 PCIE 1.0. OH. not to forget the limit of ATX only not EL-ATX
> Show me LGA2011 ASUS mobo that has that? None that I know of? (Sata ports is a MUST)
> The Alternative was the UD7, then the ASROCK. Which after alot of reading the ASROCK Extreme 9 was the better buy.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All 2011 boards seem to be EL-ATX (not sure about the few, but most with 10 SATA ports will be). Also if you want a board based only on SATA ports, then Gigabyte does seem to have more. But honestly, I would way rather pay less or get better features other the wanting one that HAS TO HAVE 10 SATA ports. You do get PCI-E SATA cards.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> But yeah, like I said, ASUS lovers only love ASUS.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And like I said I dont love ASUS, first time I bought from them. You just hate ASUS, and I am standing up for something them.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> I was a long tym ASUS lover from the 478 days. But to compare every Mobo listed in both ASUS and GIGA camp. the equivalent supporting featured mobo is 300-400 more expensive from ASUS than GIGA.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wat.
> P8P67 Pro R2000/2100
> P67 UD4 R2300/R2400
> P8P67-m Pro R1600/1700
> UD3R R1700/R1800
> (all from Landmarkpc.co.za)
> So ASUS seems to be cheaper and have more/same amount of features?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> DO NOTE. P67 has no onboard therefore has No relavance to me. I P67 in a way is going back a generation :/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Um ok? I can't see anything other than the iGPU that it lacks, mainstream-wise (but then get the Z68 series?)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> Question:
> Budget of +-1500 - HAS TO HAVE onboard
> Mid-Range of +-2100 - ONBOARD does not matter but 4x Sata 6G does
> HIGH of 2500+ - NO ONBOARD Best Price HIGH end.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> See above
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> But PLEASE PLEASE Make a new thread. I'd be glad to comment there. Also it will be short lived as I cannot post about the prices.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you want...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oj0;168772*
> Last question. Why is it that Nyt and Silverlight agree with me on the ASUS matter but everyone else has different opinion? Is it because Nyt and Silver dnt have ASUS mobos and the rest of you all do?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's because everyone has their own opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really cant see where you're getting Gigabyte having a great price/value from. The ASUS P8P67 Pro became hugely popular because of its low-price and high-feature count / performance.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Very interesting...thanks...


----------



## madchemist83

Yes my LLC set to Extreme.


----------



## McAlberts

what is the reasoning for the two red usb ports on the back of my p8p67deluxe?

i know blue means 3.0 but i have never seen red ones before and was just kind of wondering if it was anything special.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McAlberts*
> 
> what is the reasoning for the two red usb ports on the back of my p8p67deluxe?
> i know blue means 3.0 but i have never seen red ones before and was just kind of wondering if it was anything special.


Those are usb2.0 ports 1 and two and E-Sata. Different colour but why i don't know either. The blue ones are indeed USB3.0.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Yes my LLC set to Extreme.


Is this under load or idle?

Without an overview of what you are doing i can't help you.


----------



## madchemist83

Ok so my LLC now set to Ultra High, CPu capability 120%, Phase control is optimized
vcore manual to 1.300V and I'm stable with 4.6Ghz ( VRm set to Auto)
I'm seeing 56C temps of off Asus sensor and 68C in Real Temp


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Ok so my LLC now set to Ultra High, CPu capability 120%, Phase control is optimized
> vcore manual to 1.300V and I'm stable with 4.6Ghz ( VRm set to Auto)
> I'm seeing 56C temps of off Asus sensor and 68C in Real Temp


Try to get it stable with less LLC and a bit more (just a bit!!) vcore. Use CPU-Z to measure the difference between idle and load (load as in linx with the latest linpack). You will see the vcore drop under load and increase when in idle. Don't worry this is totally normal and called vdroop. This is what you need to know when you want to use offset vcore. Wich is prefferable if you want a 24/7 overclock imo. You will see with a lesser LLC the vcore behaves much more like you want it to be under load. In idle it will get too much voltage but that is only bad for the electrical bill. That's where offset mode comes in handy.

BTW. I trust Realtemp in this case.


----------



## Mieske666

Most knowledge about how to overclock a Sandy Bridge processor like the i5 2500K or I7 2600K/2700K can be found in the first few pages of this thread. Read it please!!


----------



## madchemist83

what would be my TJ max cause that's where I'm seeing 68C on one of the cores (real temp)
my LLC set to ultra high and vcore is manual 1.296V
so if I put offset my vcore will go up and I'll be stable at 4.5 ghz with 1.360 vcore


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> what would be my TJ max cause that's where I'm seeing 68C on one of the cores (real temp)
> my LLC set to ultra high and vcore is manual 1.296V
> so if I put offset my vcore will go up and I'll be stable at 4.5 ghz with 1.360 vcore


TJmax is 95C so you have a good way to go. 68C is not bad at 4.6GHz under load. Not all cores will have the same temp. First you have to know ... (sigh again) what the vdroop will be with normal or high LLC. Overclocking this chip is rather easy but it will take some patience.


----------



## Mieske666

And see LLC as a patch for a design flaw. You need it but don't be too generous with it. It causes extra heat and extra powerconsumption.


----------



## madchemist83

I'll try to sta at 4.6 ghz for a bit. Looks stable so far.


----------



## klamen

Got a problem that just started and can't figure it out. Not overclocking yet (just enabled the Turbo so far), and everything was running fine on my P8Z68-V/GEN3 mobo. Bootup to Win7 was about 12 seconds, worked great for the past two days. Today, it went into sleep mode for about 4 hours. Came out of sleep mode just fine and quickly. However, on next power cycle, it sits at the Asus BIOS screen for about 2 minutes and won't allow entry into BIOS. Then it flashes, BIOS splash screen reappears, then goes to Windows about a minute later.

Once I got in, I disabled sleep mode in Win7 due to having a Sandisk SSD with the Sanforce, ran CrystalDisk that shows the SSD to be 100% healthy (that's where the OS is), and no problems reported anywhere in Windows. Turned off computer again, waited a minute, and same problem. Finally got into BIOS, and all the settings are exactly the way they were set up two days ago.

Figured the slowness of getting past bios screen and to the Windows login screen had something to do with the sleep mode it went into this morning. What do I need to look for to get my speed back to the way it was on bootup? I just can't figure it out, and figured somebody with this mobo must have had the same problem in the past. Thanks!


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McAlberts*
> 
> what is the reasoning for the two red usb ports on the back of my p8p67deluxe?
> i know blue means 3.0 but i have never seen red ones before and was just kind of wondering if it was anything special.


I think red signifies they have extra power (how can I say that without sounding cheesy hahah) for charging devices, not 100% sure though


----------



## swarm87

im thinking of getting a p8z68-v pro/ gen 3 for my build can i run my optical drives on the marvell controlled sata ports(asking because they are the top ones)? im asking because i have 3hdds(one staying in an e-sata external enclosure untill i get a massive backup drive when prices come back down)1ssd one bluray burner and one dvd burner. if not can some one reccomend me an order to put the drives in; is it bad for the chipset to populate all the sata ports?also i was going to use corsair CML16GX3M4A1600C9B do i have to do any thing special to make them stable

what im thinking of doing:
sdd:sata6g1
hdd1(400gb)-sata3g3
hdd2(1tb)sata6g2
asus dvd burner(top position in case): either sata6g_e1 or sata3g6
lg bluray writer(second position is case): either sata6g_e2 or sata 3g5


----------



## timpattinson

Hi,
Can i join?
P8Z68-V LE, i7 2600k (stock for now)


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klamen*
> 
> Got a problem that just started and can't figure it out. Not overclocking yet (just enabled the Turbo so far), and everything was running fine on my P8Z68-V/GEN3 mobo. Bootup to Win7 was about 12 seconds, worked great for the past two days. Today, it went into sleep mode for about 4 hours. Came out of sleep mode just fine and quickly. However, on next power cycle, it sits at the Asus BIOS screen for about 2 minutes and won't allow entry into BIOS. Then it flashes, BIOS splash screen reappears, then goes to Windows about a minute later.
> Once I got in, I disabled sleep mode in Win7 due to having a Sandisk SSD with the Sanforce, ran CrystalDisk that shows the SSD to be 100% healthy (that's where the OS is), and no problems reported anywhere in Windows. Turned off computer again, waited a minute, and same problem. Finally got into BIOS, and all the settings are exactly the way they were set up two days ago.
> Figured the slowness of getting past bios screen and to the Windows login screen had something to do with the sleep mode it went into this morning. What do I need to look for to get my speed back to the way it was on bootup? I just can't figure it out, and figured somebody with this mobo must have had the same problem in the past. Thanks!


Try booting with an usb drive. Not from boot from it just stick it in and do your usual stuff. See if that helps loading the bios faster. I had this issue with an older bios version.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swarm87*
> 
> im thinking of getting a p8z68-v pro/ gen 3 for my build can i run my optical drives on the marvell controlled sata ports(asking because they are the top ones)? im asking because i have 3hdds(one staying in an e-sata external enclosure untill i get a massive backup drive when prices come back down)1ssd one bluray burner and one dvd burner. if not can some one reccomend me an order to put the drives in; is it bad for the chipset to populate all the sata ports?also i was going to use corsair CML16GX3M4A1600C9B do i have to do any thing special to make them stable
> what im thinking of doing:
> sdd:sata6g1
> hdd1(400gb)-sata3g3
> hdd2(1tb)sata6g2
> asus dvd burner(top position in case): either sata6g_e1 or sata3g6
> lg bluray writer(second position is case): either sata6g_e2 or sata 3g5


Sure why not. The marvell controller isn't great but good enough for optical drives.


----------



## klamen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Try booting with an usb drive. Not from boot from it just stick it in and do your usual stuff. See if that helps loading the bios faster. I had this issue with an older bios version.


Mieske, that definitely works. In playing with the issue much of the night, I found the problem. My printers also go into a sleep or standby mode, but they have never caused issues before when connected to other computers. However, now the Canon i470d for some reason is causing the bios to have the problem I reported when it's in standby. Easiest fix I can figure out is just make sure to wake it up before turning on the computer going forward. I researched and couldn't find a way to get the i470d to stop going into its standby mode.

Anyways, glad to see my system issue has a fix to it. I'll post back after it runs for a while longer and I attempt to see what overclocking it gets me.


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi all,

my new rig is up and running (see my sig and here, all @ stock now), please add me as a (happy) P8Z68-V Gen3 owner









Couple of questions:

1. My case (Fractal Design Arc Midi) comes with 3 non-PWM (i.e. 3 pin) fans relied to a single knob fan controller. Out of curiosity, if I take the tachometer wire from one of the fan and connect it (only the tacho wire, not the other two) to the corresponding motheboard pin for a 3pin chassis fan, will the motherboard/any software detect the speed of the fan ?

2. It really hurts me to install the whole AISuite just for fan xpert (for the CPU fan only, as my case fan are attached to a controller). Any alternative (on top of speedfan) ?

Regards,


----------



## Maco88

Hi All,

I just purchased the ASUS P8P67 PRO motherboard B3 version. There is a link at ASUS (http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/Identify_B3_Motherboards/) showing the 5 different ways to identify that the board is an actual new B3 version that fixed the issue with the 3GB Sata connectors.

My concern here is that, the box itself has all the suggested "New P67 B3 Revision" printed on the box, but when i opened up the box, there was NO on-board sticker (New P67 B3 Revision) on the actual motherboard. (No 2 in the link above)

Therefore, do all boards definitely have to include this sticker inside the box sitting on the motherboard??? I am worried I've been slipped one of the affected boards and I don't want to have to complete my new PC build to check in the BIOS to see whether is a B3 Revision board or not.

Much thanks in advance.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> 1. My case (Fractal Design Arc Midi) comes with 3 non-PWM (i.e. 3 pin) fans relied to a single knob fan controller. Out of curiosity, *if I take the tachometer wire from one of the fan and connect it (only the tacho wire, not the other two) to the corresponding motheboard pin for a 3pin chassis fan, will the motherboard/any software detect the speed of the fan ?*


I would think so, but you probably won't know till you try.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> 2. *It really hurts me to install the whole AISuite just for fan xpert* (for the CPU fan only, as my case fan are attached to a controller). Any alternative (on top of speedfan) ?
> Regards,


It only takes up about 46 meg when running and almost zero cpu time so.....


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> It only takes up about 46 meg when running and almost zero cpu time so.....


Maybe, but the whole AISuite install is 300+ MB zipped, 99% of which I'll probably never use.

BTW, I just realized that I can go into the AISuite .zip and extract/install only individual tools. That's better









MaX.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klamen*
> 
> Mieske, that definitely works. In playing with the issue much of the night, I found the problem. My printers also go into a sleep or standby mode, but they have never caused issues before when connected to other computers. However, now the Canon i470d for some reason is causing the bios to have the problem I reported when it's in standby. Easiest fix I can figure out is just make sure to wake it up before turning on the computer going forward. I researched and couldn't find a way to get the i470d to stop going into its standby mode.
> Anyways, glad to see my system issue has a fix to it. I'll post back after it runs for a while longer and I attempt to see what overclocking it gets me.


Try to see if there is a newer BIOS version for your board. In my case it's 0902 and that fixed the waiting for USB during POST issue you seem to be having. Still posting is rather slow with these ASUS boards. Also a thing you can try is to pull out all USB connections except for mouse and keyboard offcourse. Go into bios and do a save and exit. Maybe it has something to do with remembering what USB devices to scan for.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> 2. It really hurts me to install the whole AISuite just for fan xpert (for the CPU fan only, as my case fan are attached to a controller). Any alternative (on top of speedfan) ?
> Regards,


Why not do it in the BIOS??


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I think red signifies they have extra power (how can I say that without sounding cheesy hahah) for charging devices, not 100% sure though


You are correct. Red is for the extra power or charging USB port. Blue is 3.0 USB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timpattinson*
> 
> Hi,
> Can i join?
> P8Z68-V LE, i7 2600k (stock for now)


When you get it going, use CPU-Z (or any other program that shows the mobo model) then take a screen shot of it and post it. Then we know you have the board officially. Example:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maco88*
> 
> Hi All,
> I just purchased the ASUS P8P67 PRO motherboard B3 version. There is a link at ASUS (http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/Identify_B3_Motherboards/) showing the 5 different ways to identify that the board is an actual new B3 version that fixed the issue with the 3GB Sata connectors.
> My concern here is that, the box itself has all the suggested "New P67 B3 Revision" printed on the box, but when i opened up the box, there was NO on-board sticker (New P67 B3 Revision) on the actual motherboard. (No 2 in the link above)
> Therefore, do all boards definitely have to include this sticker inside the box sitting on the motherboard??? I am worried I've been slipped one of the affected boards and I don't want to have to complete my new PC build to check in the BIOS to see whether is a B3 Revision board or not.
> Much thanks in advance.


That's a good question. If the board doesn't have the sticker on it you maybe able to take its serial number and go to the Asus web site and ask them if this one is a revised B3. (Try the forums.) They may also have a list of the serial numbers posted some where too. Other than that you'd have to hook the board up and see (and I know you don't want to do that). Give the site a try with the serial number and let us know.


----------



## Maco88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> You are correct. Red is for the extra power or charging USB port. Blue is 3.0 USB.
> When you get it going, use CPU-Z (or any other program that shows the mobo model) then take a screen shot of it and post it. Then we know you have the board officially. Example:
> 
> That's a good question. If the board doesn't have the sticker on it you maybe able to take its serial number and go to the Asus web site and ask them if this one is a revised B3. (Try the forums.) They may also have a list of the serial numbers posted some where too. Other than that you'd have to hook the board up and see (and I know you don't want to do that). Give the site a try with the serial number and let us know.


Thanks RCP, I will try what you suggested, though I believe the sticker is there for a reason, and it should have been there for the purpose intended. The package doesn't look like its been tampered with, though i will thoroughly go over it again, and check, may even give ASUS a call.

As I said, I could try it and throw everything together and check the BIOS, though I am not keen on taking it all apart again, then rebuilding it over again.


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> That's a good question. If the board doesn't have the sticker on it you maybe able to take its serial number and go to the Asus web site and ask them if this one is a revised B3. (Try the forums.) They may also have a list of the serial numbers posted some where too. Other than that you'd have to hook the board up and see (and I know you don't want to do that). Give the site a try with the serial number and let us know.


CPU-Z says Rev. = B3 on the southbridge line in the pic above. If it says B0/1/2, then you may have a (small) problem.

MaX.


----------



## Katakis

*How to check if you have a B3 P67*. Also posted in OP.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> my new rig is up and running (see my sig and here, all @ stock now), please add me as a (happy) P8Z68-V Gen3 owner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couple of questions:
> 
> 1. My case (Fractal Design Arc Midi) comes with 3 non-PWM (i.e. 3 pin) fans relied to a single knob fan controller. Out of curiosity, if I take the tachometer wire from one of the fan and connect it (only the tacho wire, not the other two) to the corresponding motheboard pin for a 3pin chassis fan, will the motherboard/any software detect the speed of the fan ?
> 
> 2. It really hurts me to install the whole AISuite just for fan xpert (for the CPU fan only, as my case fan are attached to a controller). Any alternative (on top of speedfan) ?
> 
> Regards,


My V-Pro only has 3 headers that monitor RPM out of 6 total fan headers. Yes the tach wire to one of those three headers should work and I use Adia 64 extreme edition OSD to monitor RPMs which picks up the three usable ports RPM levels with no users intervention. I would avoid the AI Suite and I disable smart fan in bios. If you need to moderate the fan RPMs I would use a dedicated fan controller. I hope that helps, GL


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> With LLC on max you will never know what your Vdroop is gonna look like. LLC is something to correct things later on not an option that should be on max SB is designed to handle Vdroop.


Why do you need to know the Vdroop anyways? You just want your load Vcore (in CPUZ) to be as close as possible to what you set in the BIOS without letting it spike over that value. UH LLC usually does this. I don't really understand what you mean?


----------



## Katakis

Edit: Wrong thread


----------



## munaim1

timpattinson and HornetMaX added to OP


----------



## KilgoreTrout XL

Hi everyone. I'm a new P8Z68-V LE owner and am having a horrible time with my first-ever build (TDRs every 15 min, BSOD (109) every 1 or 2 hrs., Witcher 2 plays (well) for 25 min. and then freezes the system). I wanted to see if you guys have any pointers. This is my setup, which is pretty nice when it decides to run:

i5 2500k
Asus P8Z68-V LE
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti OC
Corsair HX650
Win 7 (64)
Corsair 8GB (2x4) DDR3 1600 - CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9
NZXT H2 enclosure, added the optional 140mm fan on top, and my CPU temps were great when I tried to OC a little (only to 3.7 or so at first).

First, the guy who drew the instructions for that Cooler Master needs a good kick in the pants. After I finally figured it out, I installed it while the mobo was still installed (I was using the stock intel fan because the EVO arrived a few days later). The installation thus required me to put a hell of a lot of pressure on the board when locking down the criss-cross holding mechanism, which itself seemed to put even more pressure on my poor CPU. Long story short, I have a feeling it shouldn't have been that hard, and that I may have crush my CPU in the process. There were problems before that date, but they've gotten much worse since.

Second, I had to move the RAM from the A1 B1 slots to A2 B2 to get the 120 fan on the RAM side of the heatsink, and I noticed that that Corsair RAM *isn't* on ASUS's compatibility list, on which all Corsair DDR3 1600 ram is set at 1.65v. Mine is 1.50v. Is that a pretty big deal, or a possible cause of the BSODs?

Third, it seems like half the internet agrees that my Gigabyte card is a complete disaster, but now I'm wondering if I'm at fault due to the RAM or something I did when I installed the cooler. I guess I'm just wondering how likely that might be. Anyway, thanks. Hopefully I'll get this thing working eventually.


----------



## cluelessguy

Wondered if someone can help me.

Basically when I shut off my machine it takes quite a while to power down.

Then when I power on my machine it shows the windows shutting down screen, then the fans go crazy and it posts twice before finally booting up.

I'm using an Asus P8z68-V Pro Gen 3 and Windows 7 is installed on an SSD.

I'm currently overclocked.


----------



## mathelm

Your ram needs to use either A1 A2 or B1 B2... Not sure if this would cause a BSOD but it prevents you from having dual channel.

Lets pretend I didn't say that....lol


----------



## cluelessguy

The ram is running in dual channel.

I don't get a bsod, what happens when I press the power is it shows a static windows shutting down screen then posts twice before booting

edit: Ignore me you were replying to someone else


----------



## KilgoreTrout XL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> Your ram needs to use either A1 A2 or B1 B2... Not sure if this would cause a BSOD but it prevents you from having dual channel.


Wow, thanks. So one dimm goes in the black slot, one in the blue? I would never have guessed that.


----------



## csm725

Ummm no.
You use A2 and B2 for 2 slots of RAM.


----------



## mathelm

Did I get that bass akwards.... sorry, on medication for a cold here... little bit sleepy


----------



## cluelessguy

Wondering if someone can shut down their machine, and then start it (don't select restart in windows).

On my rig the first screen I see is the shut down screen when booting, does this happen to anyone else?

Also when shutting down it goes to the "windows shutting down" screen (as it should) but then the screen goes black and then it goes to the shut down screen again.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maco88*
> 
> Thanks RCP, I will try what you suggested, though I believe the sticker is there for a reason, and it should have been there for the purpose intended. The package doesn't look like its been tampered with, though i will thoroughly go over it again, and check, may even give ASUS a call.
> As I said, I could try it and throw everything together and check the BIOS, though I am not keen on taking it all apart again, then rebuilding it over again.


Wow, a ton of ways to know if it's B3 were posted right after mine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KilgoreTrout XL*
> 
> Hi everyone. I'm a new P8Z68-V LE owner and am having a horrible time with my first-ever build (TDRs every 15 min, BSOD (109) every 1 or 2 hrs., Witcher 2 plays (well) for 25 min. and then freezes the system). I wanted to see if you guys have any pointers. This is my setup, which is pretty nice when it decides to run:
> i5 2500k
> Asus P8Z68-V LE
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti OC
> Corsair HX650
> Win 7 (64)
> Corsair 8GB (2x4) DDR3 1600 - CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9
> NZXT H2 enclosure, added the optional 140mm fan on top, and my CPU temps were great when I tried to OC a little (only to 3.7 or so at first).
> 
> First, the guy who drew the instructions for that Cooler Master needs a good kick in the pants. After I finally figured it out, I installed it while the mobo was still installed (I was using the stock intel fan because the EVO arrived a few days later). The installation thus required me to put a hell of a lot of pressure on the board when locking down the criss-cross holding mechanism, which itself seemed to put even more pressure on my poor CPU. Long story short, I have a feeling it shouldn't have been that hard, and that I may have crush my CPU in the process. There were problems before that date, but they've gotten much worse since.
> Second, I had to move the RAM from the A1 B1 slots to A2 B2 to get the 120 fan on the RAM side of the heatsink, and I noticed that that Corsair RAM *isn't* on ASUS's compatibility list, on which all Corsair DDR3 1600 ram is set at 1.65v. Mine is 1.50v. Is that a pretty big deal, or a possible cause of the BSODs?
> Third, it seems like half the internet agrees that my Gigabyte card is a complete disaster, but now I'm wondering if I'm at fault due to the RAM or something I did when I installed the cooler. I guess I'm just wondering how likely that might be. Anyway, thanks. Hopefully I'll get this thing working eventually.


I have the same board (Asus P8Z68-V-LE) and haven't had a problem. It's been working flawlessly. Anyway, I've also heard the the Gigabyte 560 is very buggy but it should NOT do some of the stuff your saying it does (just some)...lol...First, use A2-B2 for your RAM and that will give you dual channel and everything should work okay in that respect. If you think it's not working (because it's not on the list) then use the Mem OK, that's what it's there for.. On the other problems, did this start doing this from day 1? If so it could be a number of things (which we can then break down and find out the problem). Also, did you update your BIO's to the latest 0805 ??? This might solve some of the problems, then we can go from there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> Your ram needs to use either A1 A2 or B1 B2... Not sure if this would cause a BSOD but it prevents you from having dual channel.
> Lets pretend I didn't say that....lol


Let's pretend you didn't say that, it's A2-B2...unless you have 4 sticks then it's all of them....lol...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> Did I get that bass akwards.... sorry, on medication for a cold here... little bit sleepy


Medication is great, but it sure does mess your head up...lol...(Don't worry about it, I make more dumb mistakes than I care to count....)


----------



## Katakis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> timpattinson and HornetMaX added to OP


Hi, mate.

Please remember to update the members counter







It's still at 266

It should show 270 members about now

Thanks!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> CPU-Z says Rev. = B3 on the southbridge line in the pic above. If it says B0/1/2, then you may have a (small) problem.
> MaX.


Yes, but the guy doesn't want to build the computer just to find out, so that's not an option. We're trying to find a way he can find out before he builds (which would be a good idea so he doesn't have to build everything then rip it all down.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cluelessguy*
> 
> Wondering if someone can shut down their machine, and then start it (don't select restart in windows).
> On my rig the first screen I see is the shut down screen when booting, does this happen to anyone else?
> Also when shutting down it goes to the "windows shutting down" screen (as it should) but then the screen goes black and then it goes to the shut down screen again.


What SSD drive are you using? Did you update the firmware on the SSD to the latest? Did you update the board's BIO's to the latest? Some SSD drives (when booting) hang the system for awhile (although they won't give the different screens you are getting), but what you're describing sounds a bit different.


----------



## cluelessguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Yes, but the guy doesn't want to build the computer just to find out, so that's not an option. We're trying to find a way he can find out before he builds (which would be a good idea so he doesn't have to build everything then rip it all down.)
> What SSD drive are you using? Did you update the firmware on the SSD to the latest? Did you update the board's BIO's to the latest? Some SSD drives (when booting) hang the system for awhile (although they won't give the different screens you are getting), but what you're describing sounds a bit different.


I'm using a crucial M4 ssd.

WHat's weird is even when shutting down it goes to the shutting down splash screen as normal with the round timer, then the screen goes black then it goes to the shutting down screen again but this time the round timer thing is static.

Then as soon as I boot up the first screen it goes to is the windows shutting down screen before proceeding to boot.

It's driving me insane


----------



## p3zjb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhatIsHip*
> 
> Hey guys, just finished my build with the P8z68, but I have a few questions. I'm using an SSD, and it sometimes takes a really really long time to clear the splash screen. We are talking minutes. Also right now the board is throwing the code 30, and randomly wakes it self up from sleep. Any ideas?
> Also on bootup it flashes through a bunch of codes on the Debug. Then it settles on AA. is this normal?


msconfig > boot tab
check 'No GUI boot'.


----------



## p3zjb

Can you add me to the list?

P8Z68-V/GEN3


----------



## KilgoreTrout XL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> then use the Mem OK, that's what it's there for.. On the other problems, did this start doing this from day 1? If so it could be a number of things (which we can then break down and find out the problem). Also, did you update your BIO's to the latest 0805 ??? This might solve some of the problems, then we can go from there.


I'll look into the memOk button (didn't know there was one) I ran each dimm separately through three rounds of memtest86 wth no errors though.

The famous GTX 560 ti OC "TDR" issue happened only twice in the first five days I had it. That was three weeks ago, and it has become progressively worse since. Repeated, frequent TDRs, BSOD (109), and freezes that require shutdowns in and out of applications and games. We're talking every 20 minutes, sometimes less.

CPU-Z states the BIOS is 0805.

I'm going to buy a card from Best Buy (and then take advantage of their return policy) to see if I can isolate the problem. The card was recommended in techreport's fall 2011 guide, but I wished that I had just googled the damn thing before I bought it.


----------



## SaltwaterCooled

Can I sign up? I've got a WS Revolution; not sure I have any really good shots yet but I will soon. Pics of my build are in my Shelby project log.


----------



## munaim1

p3zjb and saltwatercooled added.


----------



## Ticko311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Here are my 4.8 settings, this was 13hrs blend stable, 15hrs memtest stable.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Target CPU Turbo-Mode  Speed: 4800MHz
> Target DRAM Speed: 1866MHz/8-9-8-24 1T
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner      Manual
> BCLK/PEG Frequency      100.0
> Turbo Ratio             By All Cores
> By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) 48
> Internal PLL Overvoltage     Enabled
> Memory Frequency    DDR3-1866MHz
> EPU Power Saving Mode    Disabled
> 
> DIGI+ VRM
> 
> Load-Line Calibaration     High
> VRM Spread Spectrum     Enabled
> Phase Control     Optimized
> Duty Control    T.Probe
> CPU Current Capability    120%
> 
> CPU Voltage     1.248  Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign      +
> CPU Offset Voltage    0.070
> DRAM Voltage    1.56250
> VCCSA Voltage   .90
> VCCIO Voltage  1.0
> CPU PLL Voltage    1.71250
> PCH Voltage    1.0
> CPU Spread Spectrum    Auto
> 
> All are listed as manual requested voltages.
> 1502 bios btw.


just wanted to update...using these settings and im running 4.8 no problem super stable 12+ hours of prime blend! I am using the corsair vengeance memory and left it at 1600mhz didnt even need to go up to 1866.


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Let's pretend you didn't say that, *it's A2-B2*...unless you have 4 sticks then it's all of them....lol...
> Medication is great, but it sure does mess your head up...lol...(Don't worry about it, I make more dumb mistakes than I care to count....)


Yes, that and rightie tightie.... leftie loosie...


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I think red signifies they have extra power (how can I say that without sounding cheesy hahah) for charging devices, not 100% sure though


I did some looking around and the red ports should be able to power items that are plugged in even when the PC is off.


----------



## Montagar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I did some looking around and the red ports should be able to power items that are plugged in even when the PC is off.


Thanks for answering that question... I was looking for that info as well, but couldn't find anything in the manual.

P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 owner here, please add me to the list.


----------



## munaim1

^^^Added^^^


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montagar*
> 
> Thanks for answering that question... I was looking for that info as well, but couldn't find anything in the manual.
> P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 owner here, please add me to the list.


Beautiful!!!


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi all, another question concerning AI Suite: the Sensor recorder, where does it save the recorded files to ?

MaX.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why do you need to know the Vdroop anyways? You just want your load Vcore (in CPUZ) to be as close as possible to what you set in the BIOS without letting it spike over that value. UH LLC usually does this. I don't really understand what you mean?


This is important for offset mode. Sometimes when using too much LLC the voltage drop in idle is too large to be stable in idle. You can than use LLC to compensate for that in a controlled way.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cluelessguy*
> 
> I'm using a crucial M4 ssd.
> WHat's weird is even when shutting down it goes to the shutting down splash screen as normal with the round timer, then the screen goes black then it goes to the shutting down screen again but this time the round timer thing is static.
> Then as soon as I boot up the first screen it goes to is the windows shutting down screen before proceeding to boot.
> It's driving me insane


The way it's supposed to work is on boot it should go through a bunch of codes then settle on one (AA) and start the boot process. Shutdown should be normal. I'm now wondering if something is conflicting with another. I assume (hate that word) that your using the SSD as a normal system drive and your other hard drive(s) are just storage (or whatever) which the SSD is C: and the hard drives are D;, E:, etc. Are you using any of the drives in raid? Or are they all setup in AHCI (which is were it should be for the configuration your running)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KilgoreTrout XL*
> 
> I'll look into the memOk button (didn't know there was one) I ran each dimm separately through three rounds of memtest86 wth no errors though.
> The famous GTX 560 ti OC "TDR" issue happened only twice in the first five days I had it. That was three weeks ago, and it has become progressively worse since. Repeated, frequent TDRs, BSOD (109), and freezes that require shutdowns in and out of applications and games. We're talking every 20 minutes, sometimes less.
> CPU-Z states the BIOS is 0805.
> I'm going to buy a card from Best Buy (and then take advantage of their return policy) to see if I can isolate the problem. The card was recommended in techreport's fall 2011 guide, but I wished that I had just googled the damn thing before I bought it.


Yea, there's the memOK button and a LED light next to it to show if it worked or not. This is for memory that isn't on the Asus list and if it acts funny, or doesn't boot, the memOK button should make it ok to use. I don't think you're having any problems with the memory though. Yea, if you can do that with the graphics card, do it. I'd try for a different card just because of the bad reviews and bugs in the one you have. If the new one solves the problems (which I think it will) you'll end up keeping it and trying to off the GTX 560 on eBay.....lol....Good luck!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> Yes, that and rightie tightie.... leftie loosie...











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I did some looking around and the red ports should be able to power items that are plugged in even when the PC is off.


Yes, they should (haven't tried it though).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montagar*
> 
> Thanks for answering that question... I was looking for that info as well, but couldn't find anything in the manual.
> P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 owner here, please add me to the list.


Don't ya just love seeing all the parts in the boxes, then knowing all the fun you'll have putting all together? Excellent picture!


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Yes, they should (haven't tried it though).
> 
> Don't ya just love seeing all the parts in the boxes, then knowing all the fun you'll have putting all together? Excellent picture!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I didn't get the red ports to work that way for me but I'm thinking I have to configure something for it to work right and I'm to lazy to mess with it.

He has my power supply MB and monitor good choices.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I didn't get the red ports to work that way for me but I'm thinking I have to configure something for it to work right and I'm to lazy to mess with it.
> He has my power supply MB and monitor good choices.


Yeah, there's a whole 'ordeal' you have to go through to get power to those ports. I believe (but don't quote me) that the AI Suite software has something to do with the power also. Like you, I'm too lazy to find out because I have no use for the power ports. Maybe in the future....


----------



## Deano12345

Just realized I never submitted any screen shots, add me please when you get a chance







Got some of the HyperX Genesis RAM, just cause it was an awesome deal. Have 8GB now, and will be getting 8GB more.


----------



## Montagar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> ^^^Added^^^


Thank you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Beautiful!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Don't ya just love seeing all the parts in the boxes, then knowing all the fun you'll have putting all together? Excellent picture!


We are such geeks... I sat there looking at them, and thinking the exact same thing, this is going to be a blast... and it was!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I didn't get the red ports to work that way for me but I'm thinking I have to configure something for it to work right and I'm to lazy to mess with it.
> He has my power supply MB and monitor good choices.


I spent a good amount of time researching my choices, but it's always nice to hear/see others that have come to the same conclusions.









As to the red USB 2.0 ports, I couldn't find anything in the manual, but I did find this "official" ASUS comment...
Quote:


> These red USB 2.0 ports/eSATA port are the ones disabled when the third PCIe is in x4 mode.


It was in reference to the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO, but it's the identical "block" on the my P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 (BT, USB, eSATA)


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Just realized I never submitted any screen shots, add me please when you get a chance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got some of the HyperX Genesis RAM, just cause it was an awesome deal. Have 8GB now, and will be getting 8GB more.


Added. Welcome to the club


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Added. Welcome to the club


Thanks !

Just wondering guys, I have my ram at 1600 at the moment, 9-9-9-24 1T (screenshot above) if I'm overclocking, how far can I push the DRAM voltage ? The sticks are rated for 1.65 but I have them at 1.50 at the moment


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Added. Welcome to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks !
> 
> Just wondering guys, I have my ram at 1600 at the moment, 9-9-9-24 1T (screenshot above) if I'm overclocking, how far can I push the DRAM voltage ? The sticks are rated for 1.65 but I have them at 1.50 at the moment
Click to expand...

1.65v is the max safe for this board.


----------



## cluelessguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> The way it's supposed to work is on boot it should go through a bunch of codes then settle on one (AA) and start the boot process. Shutdown should be normal. I'm now wondering if something is conflicting with another. I assume (hate that word) that your using the SSD as a normal system drive and your other hard drive(s) are just storage (or whatever) which the SSD is C: and the hard drives are D;, E:, etc. Are you using any of the drives in raid? Or are they all setup in AHCI (which is were it should be for the configuration your running)?


Yeah ssd is c drive, hdd is d drive. Running in achi mode.

I even unplugged psu, reset cmos, then when I plugged psu back in and booted up it still showed windows shutting down screen with the fans going nuts.

The machine doesn't shut down, it simply shows a static "windows shutting down" screen, which isn't normal as I don't have that on my laptop running windows 7.

It is bugging the hell out of me.


----------



## KilgoreTrout XL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Yea, if you can do that with the graphics card, do it. I'd try for a different card just because of the bad reviews and bugs in the one you have. If the new one solves the problems (which I think it will) you'll end up keeping it and trying to off the GTX 560 on eBay.....lol....Good luck!


I picked up an EVGA GTX 560 on the way home from work and installed it, swept drivers, reinstalled drivers, and gave it a go. It crashed within 40 seconds (new record!).

So, in desperation, I moved the sound card closer to the CPU, and installed the old card (GTX 560 Ti OC) into the gray PCI slot. Per the specs: 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, black)". Originally I had had it in the blue one (1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (blue)).

And, oh my god, my PC was finally working. I cranked Witcher 2 up to ultra settings and played with chrome, fiirefox, IE, and MS Word running in the background, and after 1.5 hrs it _still_ hadn't crashed. I let it run for another hour too, and still A-OK.

I quickly woke my roommate up to tell him the good news, and my roommate quickly told me to get the hell out of his room.

Anyway, I'm really happy to have finally got it working, but what do you guys think? Just a faulty PCI slot on my motherboard? Or is there something about the blue slot that isn't compatible with the GTX 560 Ti?


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cluelessguy*
> 
> Yeah ssd is c drive, hdd is d drive. Running in achi mode.
> I even unplugged psu, reset cmos, then when I plugged psu back in and booted up it still showed windows shutting down screen with the fans going nuts.
> The machine doesn't shut down, it simply shows a static "windows shutting down" screen, which isn't normal as I don't have that on my laptop running windows 7.
> It is bugging the hell out of me.


Honestly, it sounds like time for a complete reinstall to me.

Do a basic install with the service pack and all current updates, but leave out you video drivers (or any other special drivers). This gives you a basic install that you could apply to most any rig (changing the key if you're not transferring it). Then do a drive image. That way you'll have a good restarting point for most any future changes you make to your rig. Then install all your drivers and do another image. This gives you a good reset point for your current rig as it sits. Then install all the software you "must have" and do a third. That will give 3 good points to return to if you have issues in the future ( which everybody does). I'm running vista on this machine, but I've heard that it's a simpler process on windows 7 (something to do with a thumb drive). I have 3 images of mine (15 to 20gb each), because it takes about a day to get the install with all the service packs and the 100 plus updates installed.


----------



## cluelessguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> Honestly, it sounds like time for a complete reinstall to me.
> Do a basic install with the service pack and all current updates, but leave out you video drivers (or any other special drivers). This gives you a basic install that you could apply to most any rig (changing the key if you're not transferring it). Then do a drive image. That way you'll have a good restarting point for most any future changes you make to your rig. Then install all your drivers and do another image. This gives you a good reset point for your current rig as it sits. Then install all the software you "must have" and do a third. That will give 3 good points to return to if you have issues in the future ( which everybody does). I'm running vista on this machine, but I've heard that it's a simpler process on windows 7 (something to do with a thumb drive). I have 3 images of mine (15 to 20gb each), because it takes about a day to get the install with all the service packs and the 100 plus updates installed.


I've re-installed twice, same issue.

WHat's weird is even if I remove the psu cable and then plug it back in, when I boot the windows shutting down screen shows and then it boots up as normal.

One thing I've noticed is it doesn't do it until the nvidia drivers are installed.

Before nvidia drivers are installed on boot the screen will be black, however the fans are still really loud initially.

Are the fans normal?

HAs anyone heard of my problem before?

It does it without fail every time, I shut down, then when I boot up a static "windows shutting down" screen before booting up.

What happens is with nvidia drivers : Shut down, Power on, fans go nuts, "windows shutting down" screen, bios splash screen then boot.

Without nvidia drivers : Shut down, Power on, fans go nuts, black screen, bios splash screen, boot.


----------



## cluelessguy

Also one more thing when powered up the power switch is lit up, and the reset switch is that normal?


----------



## mathelm

I think all the asus MB's go wide open on the PWM fans at statup.

I wish I could offer more, but be patient, the experts will chime in here soon enough.


----------



## Mieske666

How does your system boot without PSU?


----------



## cluelessguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> How does your system boot without PSU?


lol

Sorry what I meant was even if I remove the psu cable AND then plug it back in the same "windows is shutting" down screen appears before posting


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline385*
> 
> 
> 
> Guys, i just got my Corsair H60 Cooler and am getting these results with push-pull using Arctic Silver 5. Can anyone suggest me some possible optimizations ?? My comp runs 24/7 for 3-4 days at a stretch.


Sure, here's a quick and dirty list that should help you out:


Ditch the Asus OC utility and OC manually from the BIOS. The Asus utility is fairly easy to use but it's infamous for doing things like using too much voltage and setting BCLK above 100.
Speaking of BCLK, leave it at 100. Yours is at 105 and you've got an OC of about 4.6 GHz because it's using a multiplier of 44 with that 105 BCLK. Instead, set your BCLK to 100 then...
... with BCLK at 100, try out a multiplier of 47 instead of 46. This will give you 4.7 GHz instead of the 4.620 that you have currently. If it's unstable, back down to 46 and leave it at that, but my guess is that if it's stable at a 105 BCLK with a 44 multiplier that it's going to be stable at 100 BCLK with a 47 multiplier.
Your temperatures look fine and so does your voltage. You may be able to manually tune your OC for slightly less voltage or you may be able to increase the voltage and get more out of your OC that way. I wouldn't be surprised if you can get to 4.8 or 4.9 GHz on that setup.


----------



## swarm87

stupid question but can you use the tpu and epu switches at the same time? also whats the average "idiot button" overclock on a 2600k


----------



## avidan36

hello everybody i new here

i dont steel dont have any of the board on list to be a member but i want to buy one of them.

i want the P8Z68 DELUX and i have some Questions about the virtue function

if i buy the delux version could i use the graphic core of the I7 cpu for one application and the cpu itself for the other normal stuff?

i meen the use IGPU for encding video and the CPU is working with other heavy programs.

the board do not have video output anf someone told that can be done with the virtue option. (he want to sel me his board P8Z68 DELUX)

please help me in this issue.

thanks.


----------



## madchemist83

I have p8z68 deluxe gen3 please add me


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Sure, here's a quick and dirty list that should help you out:
> 
> Ditch the Asus OC utility and OC manually from the BIOS. The Asus utility is fairly easy to use but it's infamous for doing things like using too much voltage and setting BCLK above 100.
> Speaking of BCLK, leave it at 100. Yours is at 105 and you've got an OC of about 4.6 GHz because it's using a multiplier of 44 with that 105 BCLK. Instead, set your BCLK to 100 then...
> ... with BCLK at 100, try out a multiplier of 47 instead of 46. This will give you 4.7 GHz instead of the 4.620 that you have currently. If it's unstable, back down to 46 and leave it at that, but my guess is that if it's stable at a 105 BCLK with a 44 multiplier that it's going to be stable at 100 BCLK with a 47 multiplier.
> Your temperatures look fine and so does your voltage. You may be able to manually tune your OC for slightly less voltage or you may be able to increase the voltage and get more out of your OC that way. I wouldn't be surprised if you can get to 4.8 or 4.9 GHz on that setup.


Yeah 4.8+ is well within reach with a H60


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cluelessguy*
> 
> Yeah ssd is c drive, hdd is d drive. Running in achi mode.
> I even unplugged psu, reset cmos, then when I plugged psu back in and booted up it still showed windows shutting down screen with the fans going nuts.
> The machine doesn't shut down, it simply shows a static "windows shutting down" screen, which isn't normal as I don't have that on my laptop running windows 7.
> It is bugging the hell out of me.


What slot do you have the graphics card plugged into, the blue or black?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KilgoreTrout XL*
> 
> I picked up an EVGA GTX 560 on the way home from work and installed it, swept drivers, reinstalled drivers, and gave it a go. It crashed within 40 seconds (new record!).
> So, in desperation, I moved the sound card closer to the CPU, and installed the old card (GTX 560 Ti OC) into the gray PCI slot. Per the specs: 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, black)". Originally I had had it in the blue one (1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (blue)).
> And, oh my god, my PC was finally working. I cranked Witcher 2 up to ultra settings and played with chrome, fiirefox, IE, and MS Word running in the background, and after 1.5 hrs it _still_ hadn't crashed. I let it run for another hour too, and still A-OK.
> I quickly woke my roommate up to tell him the good news, and my roommate quickly told me to get the hell out of his room.
> Anyway, I'm really happy to have finally got it working, but what do you guys think? Just a faulty PCI slot on my motherboard? Or is there something about the blue slot that isn't compatible with the GTX 560 Ti?


The graphics card will not run in full x16 mode unless it's plugged into the black slot. The blue slot will hold it to x2 (possibly x4) but that's it. I'm thinking that since you moved the card the drivers now are acting the way they should and everything is good. The slot coloring on the boards maybe different (I don't know) but they sound to be the same blue/black that I have. I had an issue that my graphics card wouldn't let me see anything unless it was plugged into the lesser blue slot, but after sticking it in the black slot I found the machine had to be re-booted a couple of times and then it recognized it and stepped up to the full x16. On the room mate thing, he just doesn't understand geeks, shoot him....lol...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cluelessguy*
> 
> I've re-installed twice, same issue.
> WHat's weird is even if I remove the psu cable and then plug it back in, when I boot the windows shutting down screen shows and then it boots up as normal.
> One thing I've noticed is it doesn't do it until the nvidia drivers are installed.
> Before nvidia drivers are installed on boot the screen will be black, however the fans are still really loud initially.
> Are the fans normal?
> HAs anyone heard of my problem before?
> It does it without fail every time, I shut down, then when I boot up a static "windows shutting down" screen before booting up.
> What happens is with nvidia drivers : Shut down, Power on, fans go nuts, "windows shutting down" screen, bios splash screen then boot.
> Without nvidia drivers : Shut down, Power on, fans go nuts, black screen, bios splash screen, boot.


"Mathelm" is correct, the fans should go into full speed when booting up and then settle down as soon as the machine reaches boot. Something is conflicting with the software somewhere. That's why I ask what color slot you have the graphics card plugged into. Just like the above problem, his machine now acts correctly now that the card is in the correct slot. It seems like you've done everything else, so try switching the slots and see what happens. I just found that while running a little program I have that lets you enable No Sleep or disable it and your machine goes back to sleeping at the appropriate times, that little software interferes with O&O Defragger and won't let it run, but turn it off and the defragger runs like always. So I'm thinking that maybe one driver might be using a memory spot that another program is using and hence all the weird stuff. (Or it just maybe the slot placement).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avidan36*
> 
> hello everybody i new here
> i dont steel dont have any of the board on list to be a member but i want to buy one of them.
> i want the P8Z68 DELUX and i have some Questions about the virtue function
> if i buy the delux version could i use the graphic core of the I7 cpu for one application and the cpu itself for the other normal stuff?
> i meen the use IGPU for encding video and the CPU is working with other heavy programs.
> the board do not have video output anf someone told that can be done with the virtue option. (he want to sel me his board P8Z68 DELUX)
> please help me in this issue.
> thanks.


Lucid Logix Virtu is what you're looking for. What it does is enable the graphics processing of the CPU to do work like word processing, excel spread sheets, low graphic processes such as that. Now when the Lucid Virtu takes over it will switch from the low end CPU to a graphics card and let the graphics card do the heavier duty work, such as graphically intense games. And yes, your CPU will do other jobs while also showing you non-graphically intense programs. You could be editing or watching a video on the CPU while also working with other programs. But when you need more graphics power, it will then switch to your graphics card so it does the heavy graphics stuff. In my opinion this is not such a great thing. A graphics card will do all of the work and then some. BUT, if you can not afford a graphics card for your build, just using the CPU graphics would be fine (to a point) without the need for a graphics card. (But games wouldn't look very good.) You don't need Virtu to do that. You only need the Virtu when you are using the CPU graphics and a graphics card together. (Or if you use a graphics card by itself, you don't need Virtu either.)


----------



## KilgoreTrout XL

Cool. I checked all over the place too and there's really nothing in the manual, and nothing I could find on the net, to tell the first-time builder, who is basically learning as he goes (me), where to put the video card if you're only using one. Honestly, I only put it in the blue slot because it was further away from the power supply, and I figured that the card would have better airflow in that position.

Water under the bridge now though. And I can finally start tinkering with overclocking the CPU! Cheers.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KilgoreTrout XL*
> 
> Cool. I checked all over the place too and there's really nothing in the manual, and nothing I could find on the net, to tell the first-time builder, who is basically learning as he goes (me), where to put the video card if you're only using one. Honestly, I only put it in the blue slot because it was further away from the power supply, and I figured that the card would have better airflow in that position.
> Water under the bridge now though. And I can finally start tinkering with overclocking the CPU! Cheers.


The manuals actually do point out what slot your cards should go in. The problem is they assume a person building a computer knows a bit more and just points out the graphic speeds of each slot. A person with building knowledge will instantly know but a person who is a first time builder and just wants to get things done without any research can have problems. This is why you will read a lot of bad reviews on products sold on Newegg.

Be thankful that you are already a step well ahead of most people by finding this site and not afraid to ask questions. Once you build your own system there is no turning back, the bug has bit you.


----------



## KilgoreTrout XL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> The manuals actually do point out what slot your cards should go in. The problem is they assume a person building a computer knows a bit more and just points out the graphic speeds of each slot.


Heh- the moment I clicked "submit" on that comment I knew that a response like this would be right around the corner.

It certainly has been an incredibly frustrating and time-consuming process, but it is really satisfying to see it run properly now.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KilgoreTrout XL*
> 
> It certainly has been an incredibly frustrating and time-consuming process, but it is really satisfying to see it run properly now.


People have it so easy now with websites like this to ask for help. I have been tearing apart and building computers since before the internet was a household commodity. Back when hard drives were as big as a PSU and you were considered rich to have one as big as 20 megabytes, my Vic-20 had a cassette backup. The only way to really learn all you can about a build is trial and error. I lost count on how many times I formatted my computers trying to tweak things. Even now I still jump into things and have to do it all over several times before I get it right. There is always a forum thread on how to do something better and more efficient. Golden rule is to just have fun and enjoy what you built yourself.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> People have it so easy now with websites like this to ask for help. I have been tearing apart and building computers since before the internet was a household commodity. Back when hard drives were as big as a PSU and you were considered rich to have one as big as 20 megabytes, my Vic-20 had a cassette backup. The only way to really learn all you can about a build is trial and error. I lost count on how many times I formatted my computers trying to tweak things. Even now I still jump into things and have to do it all over several times before I get it right. There is always a forum thread on how to do something better and more efficient. Golden rule is to just have fun and enjoy what you built yourself.


Can you post a template of your bios with stable setting at 4.8? I have same CPU and Board. I had it running stable, then I reverted to stock settings to install and tweak a new SSD. I think I wrote something down wrong and I am not stable anymore. Not sure what I missed. Would like to compare settings.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Can you post a template of your bios with stable setting at 4.8? I have same CPU and Board. I had it running stable, then I reverted to stock settings to install and tweak a new SSD. I think I wrote something down wrong and I am not stable anymore. Not sure what I missed. Would like to compare settings.


On the very first page of this thread scroll down and you will see TwoCables 4.8ghz template (Post # 2 "Overclocking"). The only thing that I changed was the AI Overclock Tuner to XMP and the CPU Offset Voltage to .020 instead of the .040 in the template and it gave me a steady voltage of 1,384 while stress testing.

I idle at 1.024 and oddly the CPU rarely kicks in above idle while I am playing the games I frequent so the voltage really doesn't concern me as I am water cooled anyway. I usually sit at 29c.


----------



## madchemist83

All I did is raise multi, llc and cpu capacity


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> On the very first page of this thread scroll down and you will see TwoCables 4.8ghz template (Post # 2 "Overclocking"). The only thing that I changed was the AI Overclock Tuner to XMP and the CPU Offset Voltage to .020 instead of the .040 in the template and it gave me a steady voltage of 1,384 while stress testing.
> I idle at 1.024 and oddly the CPU rarely kicks in above idle while I am playing the games I frequent so the voltage really doesn't concern me as I am water cooled anyway. I usually sit at 29c.


got it. i think I could stair at my bios all day and figure out what I forgot to change. Thanks.


----------



## avidan36

thanks RCPilotJAE

it was very helpful your reply.its will be smart to but Z68 board when a new chipset it so close come out??

i see intel road map and the Z77 family chipset is newer but i dont now if they will have virtu..

i read in other forums that the virtu was uniqe to the z68 board is it right?

if it right i buy this board anyway.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avidan36*
> 
> thanks RCPilotJAE
> 
> it was very helpful your reply.its will be smart to but Z68 board when a new chipset it so close come out??
> 
> i see intel road map and the Z77 family chipset is newer but i dont now if they will have virtu..
> 
> i read in other forums that the virtu was uniqe to the z68 board is it right?
> 
> if it right i buy this board anyway.


Yes Z77 will support Lucid Virtu and will more than double the graphics power of Z68 plus it will support three displays without a discrete GPU



source: http://www.nordichardware.com/news/69-cpu-chipset/44758-ivy-bridge-models-detailed-hd-4000-graphics-and-77w-tdp.html


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KilgoreTrout XL*
> 
> Cool. I checked all over the place too and there's really nothing in the manual, and nothing I could find on the net, to tell the first-time builder, who is basically learning as he goes (me), where to put the video card if you're only using one. Honestly, I only put it in the blue slot because it was further away from the power supply, and I figured that the card would have better airflow in that position.
> Water under the bridge now though. And I can finally start tinkering with overclocking the CPU! Cheers.


As 'Mercyflush64' pointed out, it is. But like said, they expect that you know a bit more than the average bear when it comes to those manuals. And really all the manual says is the blue is x2,x4 and the black is x16. Has to be in the black slot as that's the full x16 slot there is. So, I agree if it wasn't for these forums I think we'd all be lost. There's stuff I'm learning everyday.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avidan36*
> 
> thanks RCPilotJAE
> it was very helpful your reply.its will be smart to but Z68 board when a new chipset it so close come out??
> i see intel road map and the Z77 family chipset is newer but i dont now if they will have virtu..
> i read in other forums that the virtu was uniqe to the z68 board is it right?
> if it right i buy this board anyway.


See the post by "owcraftsman" right below your last post. He explains it rather well with a picture. But no, it's not unique to the Z68. As for new chip sets the X79 seems to be the next generation that is already on the market and more to come. Good luck!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> People have it so easy now with websites like this to ask for help. I have been tearing apart and building computers since before the internet was a household commodity. Back when hard drives were as big as a PSU and you were considered rich to have one as big as 20 megabytes, my Vic-20 had a cassette backup. The only way to really learn all you can about a build is trial and error. I lost count on how many times I formatted my computers trying to tweak things. Even now I still jump into things and have to do it all over several times before I get it right. There is always a forum thread on how to do something better and more efficient. Golden rule is to just have fun and enjoy what you built yourself.


...lol... I remember those days. The Vic 20 and a tape drive, man you where cooking! Then the C64 came out and the 5.25" drive, WOW! Then we stepped up to a 56K modem and thought that was impressive. And after that I went to the Amiga and got burned when they closed their doors, but oh well. At least I had a taste of multi-tasking before PC's ever thought of it. Talk about memories....And you are so right, just have fun and enjoy what you build. Even if it doesn't work the first time, you learn a ton of good stuff fixing it. And of course, thank God for the Internet, these forums and a bunch of good guys that like to talk about their experiences, right or wrong. Not to mention the help from others. I have an interesting thing happening with my drives that I can't explain, so I'll be posting for help too. Got to get off this thing right now, so I'll post it later. In the meantime, thanks for the memories....


----------



## cluelessguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> "Mathelm" is correct, the fans should go into full speed when booting up and then settle down as soon as the machine reaches boot. Something is conflicting with the software somewhere. That's why I ask what color slot you have the graphics card plugged into. Just like the above problem, his machine now acts correctly now that the card is in the correct slot. It seems like you've done everything else, so try switching the slots and see what happens. I just found that while running a little program I have that lets you enable No Sleep or disable it and your machine goes back to sleeping at the appropriate times, that little software interferes with O&O Defragger and won't let it run, but turn it off and the defragger runs like always. So I'm thinking that maybe one driver might be using a memory spot that another program is using and hence all the weird stuff. (Or it just maybe the slot placement).


Just to clarify, my gpu should be in the black slot which is the third slot down (furtherst away from the cpu)?

I currently have my gpu plugged into the blue slot (nearest the cpu), I've always connectred gpus to slot nearest cpu.

My board is a P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3

Description of slots is first one:

PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16_1 slot (single at x16 or dual atx8/x8 mode) *I have mine plugged into this one*

PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16_2 slot [gray] (at x8 mode)

PCIe 2.0 x16_3 slot [black] (at 4x mode compatible with PCIe x1 and x4 devices)

I put my gpu in first one because black one says at 4x mode whereas blue one nearest cpu says at x16

edit: Well I can't even put my gpu in the bottom slot because it won't fit due to the other connections


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cluelessguy*
> 
> Just to clarify, my gpu should be in the black slot which is the third slot down (furtherst away from the cpu)?
> I currently have my gpu plugged into the blue slot (nearest the cpu), I've always connectred gpus to slot nearest cpu.
> My board is a P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3
> Description of slots is first one:
> PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16_1 slot (single at x16 or dual atx8/x8 mode) *I have mine plugged into this one*
> PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16_2 slot [gray] (at x8 mode)
> PCIe 2.0 x16_3 slot [black] (at 4x mode compatible with PCIe x1 and x4 devices)
> I put my gpu in first one because black one says at 4x mode whereas blue one nearest cpu says at x16
> edit: Well I can't even put my gpu in the bottom slot because it won't fit due to the other connections


Leave it where it is. It's the right slot. (single @ x16 PCI express lanes).

Greetz,


----------



## Mieske666

Have you got the intel inf drivers installed? Seems to me there is something wrong there.. If not install. If so try to reïnstall those. chipset drivers


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> ...lol... I remember those days. The Vic 20 and a tape drive, man you where cooking! Then the C64 came out and the 5.25" drive, WOW! Then we stepped up to a 56K modem and *thought that was impressive*. And after that I went to the Amiga and got burned when they closed their doors, but oh well. At least I had a taste of multi-tasking before PC's ever thought of it. Talk about memories...



*Commodore 64*
_Introduced: January 1982
Released: September 1982
How many: ~17 million
Price: US $595.
CPU: MOS 6510, 1MHz
Sound: SID 6581, 3 channels of sound
RAM: 64K
Display: 25 X 40 text
320 X 200, 16 colors max
Ports: TV, RGB & composite video
2 joysticks, cartridge port
serial peripheral port
Peripherals: cassette recorder
printer, modem
external 170K floppy drive
OS: ROM BASIC_

What do ya mean "Thought"? It was impressive. Had my own little BBS back then with a dedicated phone line (didn't everybody?). I can still remember the first cd-rom I saw, I think the guy paid $1200 bucks for it (circa 1991 I think).

btw, came across my old Amiga 500 not too long ago. Sadly it would not get past the bios post and of course not worth fixing...


*Commodore Amiga 500*
_Announced: January 1987
Price: $699.99
CPU: Motorola 68000 @ 7.14 MHz
RAM: 512K stock, 8Meg max.
Display: 16 colors at 640 X 400
4096 colors at 320 X 200.
Ports: Parallel, serial, floppy
RGB, RF, composite video
Stereo audio, joysticks
System bus
Storage: Internal 880K 3.5-inch floppy.
OS: AmigaDOS 1.34
"Workbench" GUI
_


----------



## cluelessguy

I'm pretty sure I do.

WHat are the ones you linked to for?

Windows 7 64bit P8Z68-V PRO GEN 3 yeah?


----------



## Mieske666

The chipset drivers are for the Z68 and earlier. Generic so one size fits all







Indeed win64.


----------



## KilgoreTrout XL

Weird. My manual says to do the exact opposite.

"1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (blue) *1
1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, black) *1
In single VGA card mode, use the PCIe 2.0 x16_1 slot (blue) for a PCI Express graphics card to get better performance. "

I do have the P8P67-V LE that not many others seem to have though.

I was one of the lucky few with a c128, which only differed from the c64 in that you had to type "go 64" or something after you turned it on.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> On the very first page of this thread scroll down and you will see TwoCables 4.8ghz template (Post # 2 "Overclocking"). The only thing that I changed was the AI Overclock Tuner to XMP and the CPU Offset Voltage to .020 instead of the .040 in the template and it gave me a steady voltage of 1,384 while stress testing.
> I idle at 1.024 and oddly the CPU rarely kicks in above idle while I am playing the games I frequent so the voltage really doesn't concern me as I am water cooled anyway. I usually sit at 29c.


Okay I used twocables' template and made a few changes to work for my CPU(in bold). However, I am not stable unless I keep C3 and C6 disabled. Then speedstep does not seem to be working.

Ai Tweaker

• Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
• BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
• Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
• By All Cores: 48
• Internal PLL Voltage: *Enabled*
• Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
• DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
• EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

• CPU Ratio: Auto
• Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
• Turbo Mode: Enabled
• Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
• Long Duration Maintained: Auto
• Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
• Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
• Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

• Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
• VRM Frequency: Manual
• VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
• Phase Control: Extreme
• Duty Control: Extreme
• CPU Current Capability: 140% (Before getting an SSD, I was able to keep this at 130%)
• CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
• Offset Mode Sign: +
• CPU Offset Voltage: *0.10V*
• DRAM Voltage: *1.5v*
• VCCSA Voltage: Auto
• VCCIO Voltage: Auto
• CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
• PCH Voltage: Auto
• CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >

• CPU Ratio: Auto
• Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
• Active Processor Cores: All
• Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
• Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
• Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
• Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
• Turbo Mode: Enabled
• CPU C1E: Enabled
• CPU C3 Report: Disabled
• CPU C6 Report: Disabled



I do not understand how it could be so different. I was able to leave C3 and C6 enabled before. I wonder if I got a crappy chip???


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KilgoreTrout XL*
> 
> Weird. My manual says to do the exact opposite.
> "1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (blue) *1
> 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, black) *1
> In single VGA card mode, use the PCIe 2.0 x16_1 slot (blue) for a PCI Express graphics card to get better performance. "
> I do have the P8P67-V LE that not many others seem to have though.
> I was one of the lucky few with a c128, which only differed from the c64 in that you had to type "go 64" or something after you turned it on.


Yeah what's the confusion? It's the same isn't it? The blue one is the closest to the CPU right? Is better for shorter latencies altough it won't matter too much. It's got 16 lanes.

Your black one is a x16PCI express slot with only 4 lanes activated. I don't understand your confusion?


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> 
> I do not understand how it could be so different. I was able to leave C3 and C6 enabled before. I wonder if I got a crappy chip???


Are you not stable in load or in idle with c3/6 disabled?


----------



## Mercyflush64

Speedstep can be fixed in Windows by choosing a balanced power option. This will allow the CPU to throttle down.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cluelessguy*
> 
> Just to clarify, my gpu should be in the black slot which is the third slot down (furtherst away from the cpu)?
> I currently have my gpu plugged into the blue slot (nearest the cpu), I've always connectred gpus to slot nearest cpu.
> My board is a P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3
> Description of slots is first one:
> PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16_1 slot (single at x16 or dual atx8/x8 mode) *I have mine plugged into this one*
> PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16_2 slot [gray] (at x8 mode)
> PCIe 2.0 x16_3 slot [black] (at 4x mode compatible with PCIe x1 and x4 devices)
> I put my gpu in first one because black one says at 4x mode whereas blue one nearest cpu says at x16
> edit: Well I can't even put my gpu in the bottom slot because it won't fit due to the other connections


You have yours in the correct slot. What's confusing here is your board is backwards from the P8Z68-V-LE, in this board the black slot is closest to the CPU and is @x16. The blue slot is not. On your board the blue slot is closest to the CPU and is @x16 (correct one for you) and your black slot is the slower slot. No wonder everyone is confused








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*
> 
> 
> *Commodore 64*
> _Introduced: January 1982
> Released: September 1982
> How many: ~17 million
> Price: US $595.
> CPU: MOS 6510, 1MHz
> Sound: SID 6581, 3 channels of sound
> RAM: 64K
> Display: 25 X 40 text
> 320 X 200, 16 colors max
> Ports: TV, RGB & composite video
> 2 joysticks, cartridge port
> serial peripheral port
> Peripherals: cassette recorder
> printer, modem
> external 170K floppy drive
> OS: ROM BASIC_
> What do ya mean "Thought"? It was impressive. Had my own little BBS back then with a dedicated phone line (didn't everybody?). I can still remember the first cd-rom I saw, I think the guy paid $1200 bucks for it (circa 1991 I think).
> btw, came across my old Amiga 500 not too long ago. Sadly it would not get past the bios post and of course not worth fixing...
> 
> *Commodore Amiga 500*
> _Announced: January 1987
> Price: $699.99
> CPU: Motorola 68000 @ 7.14 MHz
> RAM: 512K stock, 8Meg max.
> Display: 16 colors at 640 X 400
> 4096 colors at 320 X 200.
> Ports: Parallel, serial, floppy
> RGB, RF, composite video
> Stereo audio, joysticks
> System bus
> Storage: Internal 880K 3.5-inch floppy.
> OS: AmigaDOS 1.34
> "Workbench" GUI
> _


I just knew you where going to do the picture thing. Brings back fond memories (and that of my small computer store that sold exclusively Amiga & Commodore). ((Which lasted 6 years and we did very well until that dammed Mall opened down the street with such places as CompUSA in it and all the small computer stores in the area went belly up within a year or so including me.)) But that's okay as I had fun, turned a great profit in those 6 years and learned a ton about video and editing, drawing, multi-tasking, etc, etc. And you are spot on, some of the prices of the 'modern, future' items such as the CD-Rom and even one of the first cell phones (that I had in my car) were priced out of sight. My cell was looked just like a regular wall telephone only mounted flat and I had to pick up the receiver and it had a coiled cord to the base. Man, can you imagine that today? The cops would bust you in a heart beat...lol...Sorry to hear the 500 wouldn't post. Probably one of the chips. I remember something about one of the smaller chips that wasn't too expensive would constantly burn out in those things. Easy to fix and a quick $50 to the store.......Arrrgggg, brings back the memories. Those were great times. Remember the video toaster?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KilgoreTrout XL*
> 
> Weird. My manual says to do the exact opposite.
> "1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (blue) *1
> 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, black) *1
> In single VGA card mode, use the PCIe 2.0 x16_1 slot (blue) for a PCI Express graphics card to get better performance. "
> I do have the P8P67-V LE that not many others seem to have though.
> I was one of the lucky few with a c128, which only differed from the c64 in that you had to type "go 64" or something after you turned it on.


I have the same board and as above the black slot is the X16 slot and the blue one is the X4. It's backwards from the other Asus boards. I like this board. It has everything I wanted on it (except a firewire port, which I bought a $15 card with 4 Firewire ports on it and stuck it in). And since it had everything I wanted on it and was very inexpensive I went for it. I'm glad I did. Almost went with a higher priced board and almost went with an AsRock, but I'm glad I didn't. The only thing I think I'll miss out on is maybe the Gen3 in the future. But that's okay as when everyone is spending $500 bucks on a new video card with Gen3 capabilities, I'll be buying one that was going for 500 bucks, for less than a hundred...lol...and that's just the way it is with video cards. So I feel like I didn't lose a thing by getting an intermediate board.

Anyway, just to be clear, the black slot will be the better slot for a single GPU as it'll handle a full 16 lanes, the blue will not. In the P8Z68-V-LE mobo.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> I have the same board and as above the black slot is the X16 slot and the blue one is the X4. It's backwards from the other Asus boards. I like this board. It has everything I wanted on it (except a firewire port, which I bought a $15 card with 4 Firewire ports on it and stuck it in). And since it had everything I wanted on it and was very inexpensive I went for it. I'm glad I did. Almost went with a higher priced board and almost went with an AsRock, but I'm glad I didn't. The only thing I think I'll miss out on is maybe the Gen3 in the future. But that's okay as when everyone is spending $500 bucks on a new video card with Gen3 capabilities, I'll be buying one that was going for 500 bucks, for less than a hundred...lol...and that's just the way it is with video cards. So I feel like I didn't lose a thing by getting an intermediate board.
> Anyway, just to be clear, the black slot will be the better slot for a single GPU as it'll handle a full 16 lanes, the blue will not. In the P8Z68-V-LE mobo.


That is confusing. And a bad design decission IMO. This is then only for the P8Z68-V-LE? Because i'm 100% sure on mine (P8Z68-V) it's the slot nearest to my cpu and it's very blue


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:
Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE* 

You have yours in the correct slot. What's confusing here is your board is backwards from the P8Z68-V-LE, in this board the black slot is closest to the CPU and is @x16. The blue slot is not. On your board the blue slot is closest to the CPU and is @x16 (correct one for you) and your black slot is the slower slot. No wonder everyone is confused








[...]


> Anyway, just to be clear, the black slot will be the better slot for a single GPU as it'll handle a full 16 lanes, the blue will not. In the P8Z68-V-LE mobo.


Good catch.

This brings up a good point about never giving advice based on color, Slot Number, or even physical location as each manufacturer uses a different scheme and some manufacturers have different schemes within brand lines.

I see this often when installing DIMMs but not quite as often when using PCIe slots.

The long and short of it is that we should be reading the manual for every single model number and revision before we install our product or give advice based on number, color, or physical orientation on the board; there is no standard between manufacturers and often no standard within a manufacturers product lines.

It isn't usually too bad on PCIe slots unless you're trying to choose between SLI boards but I've seen this issue show up in some extremely confusing instances for installing RAM.

DIMMs can get crazy, as some manufacturers take the 1, 2, 3, 4 orientation and tell people that slots 1 and 3 are the best pair or that slots 2 and 4 are the best pair (this is the case on my board). They color code them red black red black or blue white blue white or some other scheme and tell users to install in like colors. Other manufacturers think that this is confusing and counter-intuitive so they take the extra step to make it easy for users; they take a 1, 2, 3, 4 physical orientation where slots 2 and 4 are preferred and then rearrange it in a 2, 4, 1, 3 configuration, rename the slots to 1, 2, 3, 4 and then tell users to use slots 1 and 2 first then use slots 3 and 4 for additional pairs. I've also seen them rearrange it in a 1, 3, 2, 4 configuration and then renumber the slots 4, 3, 2, 1 and tell users to install into slots 1 and 2. They are always color coded, but the colors aren't consistent. Asus likes to use blue and white on many of their products (but not the ROG stuff, which is usually red and black) but some Asus boards use white as the preferred DIMM pairing and some boards use blue as the preferred pairing. I've also seen them number the slots as DIMM 0, 1, 2, and 3 and tell users to install in 0 and 2 or 1 and 3.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> That is confusing. And a bad design decission IMO. This is then only for the P8Z68-V-LE? Because i'm 100% sure on mine (P8Z68-V) it's the slot nearest to my cpu and it's very blue


I'm sitting here looking at a LE, and it's exactly the same as the other z68. The 16x is blue and closest to the cpu.

RCPilotJAE, check your board again...

Look here too http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131773


----------



## avidan36

Hay RCPilotJAE

i see your repaly.i now and the link is broken.

in the P8Z68 i have 2 PCI legacy (the old interface)

this is main reason i Considering this board.

one is very expansive sound card and tow is a video captor from pinnaclle

the newer chiper will support PCI or i just take the P8Z68.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Are you not stable in load or in idle with c3/6 disabled?


It ran all night on prime 95 with them enabled. When I came out this morning one of the cores had stopped working. That tells me it was not quite stable and needed a little extra juice. However, my system then crashed and would not even load Windows again until I disabled c3 and c6. Now, with them disabled it is running fine. Prime has been going for at least 6 hours with no issue. I guess I do not really fully understand what c3 and c6 are and why they would effect an OC.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Speedstep can be fixed in Windows by choosing a balanced power option. This will allow the CPU to throttle down.


I do have it on high performance. I will switch it tonight. Thanks.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I do have it on high performance. I will switch it tonight. Thanks.


I've found balanced performance isn't really fixing SpeedStep completely. The CPU will just switch directly from 16x to whatever you have the By All Core or By Per Core set to.

With the Turbo ratio set to auto, high performance or balanced performance work as they should, and SpeedStep will scale through all multipliers between 16x and the turbo multiplier.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> I've found balanced performance isn't really fixing SpeedStep completely. The CPU will just switch directly from 16x to whatever you have the By All Core or By Per Core set to.
> With the Turbo ratio set to auto, high performance or balanced performance work as they should, and SpeedStep will scale through all multipliers between 16x and the turbo multiplier.


The price we pay for overclocking...


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> I'm sitting here looking at a LE, and it's exactly the same as the other z68. The 16x is blue and closest to the cpu.
> RCPilotJAE, check your board again...
> Look here too http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131773


Good i seem to be not so insane after all... pfewww.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> It ran all night on prime 95 with them enabled. When I came out this morning one of the cores had stopped working. That tells me it was not quite stable and needed a little extra juice. However, my system then crashed and would not even load Windows again until I disabled c3 and c6. Now, with them disabled it is running fine. Prime has been going for at least 6 hours with no issue. I guess I do not really fully understand what c3 and c6 are and why they would effect an OC.


You are in offset mode with LLC to the max. This might give you the voltages you calculated maybe. But don't you read the first pages of a thread? It's stated in this thread. In offset mode with a cpu that's let's say just normal. Remember this CPU is designed for vdroops at stock speeds. You need i think a little higher offset and a little lower LLC for keeping it stable at idle. Anyways no one seems to read anymore. It's really a simple overclocking platform. On air with the right chip you can easily get to 4.8 Ghz


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> The price we pay for overclocking...


Agreed, totally worth it, but...

It does say something that either ASUS or the P67/Z68 platform is unable to overclock and still maintain correct functionality of SpeedStep. I'm wanting to switch over to Z68 for client's builds, but after many months of testing, I'm just not sure. P55 was solid as a rock...

That, and I'm slightly annoyed w/ ASUS at the moment because this GEN 3 I settled on for my personal build came with a defective PCIe x16_1 slot. A BSOD 119 every few days. The PCIe x16_2 works perfectly though (at x8 only of course), so I'll RMA as soon as I find a board I want to replace it with, hopefully very soon.


----------



## Mieske666

Maybe i should put it this way.

With a vcore set manually the voltage will be the most stable anyhow.

When in offset mode you allow the cpu to ask for a voltage which it will then get the best as the mainboard can. Under load the mainboard cannot deliver what is being asked and the voltage drops... This is called Vdroop. At stock this shouldn't be a problem the chip is designed to handle that. We overclock so that changes. We change the conditions the chip has to operate in. Then laws of physics kick in and here we are. No serious overclocker running for gold will use offset mode anyways. To unpredictable. For a 24/7 overclock it makes kinda sence though. It allows the CPU to relax and might lengthen it's life span. Altough we don't know that.

Now in offset mode we can predict what the vdroop will be because we can measure that during load. We punch in a offset depending on what the CPU asks (vid) If we keep LLC neutral it will drop. Now we punch in a higher number (Offset not LLC) and.. Yeah the overclock works under load. And idle should be stable. But we need to be energy efficient. So we want to tune idle voltage as well. There LLC is somewhat qiurky but a handy tool. We increase that just one step and everything changes. Not so much drop under load and less overvoltage during idle. This is where beauty is.

It's a song of fine tuning these two elements your mainboard and CPU offer you. You will need to take baby steps and if you do you will find harmony. The i5 and i7 K series are at stock very good performers as it is. There is at this moment little reason to ask for more because the software and games don't ask for much more. I do too overclock. I have mine stable at 4K5 in offset mode the way i described. Stable in a sence i did prime 95 for 24 hours, Linx 24 hours and idle is always good, most of the time the system is idle.

Asus and others build LLC in with overclockers in mind.....


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Agreed, totally worth it, but...
> It does say something that either ASUS or the P67/Z68 platform is unable to overclock and still maintain correct functionality of SpeedStep. I'm wanting to switch over to Z68 for client's builds, but after many months of testing, I'm just not sure. P55 was solid as a rock...
> That, and I'm slightly annoyed w/ ASUS at the moment because this GEN 3 I settled on for my personal build came with a defective PCIe x16_1 slot. A BSOD 119 every few days. The PCIe x16_2 works perfectly though (at x8 only of course), so I'll RMA as soon as I find a board I want to replace it with, hopefully very soon.


I agree with you that you want to see on an i7 2600K 3400MHz for normal operation. And you know it never did also not at stock. The tech works fine even when overclocking. Download Realtemp. There is a utility in there that can detect multipliers. This will give you an insight CPU-Z doesn't report. If you overclock per core it will even show that.

For the rest it seems you have bad luck. Succes with the RMA. The first board i recieved had bended cpu pins. And they claim it's my fault. I just lifted off the plastic socket cap....


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> The tech works fine even when overclocking. Download Realtemp. There is a utility in there that can detect multipliers. This will give you an insight CPU-Z doesn't report. If you overclock per core it will even show that.
> For the rest it seems you have bad luck. Succes with the RMA. The first board i recieved had bended cpu pins. And they claim it's my fault. I just lifted off the plastic socket cap....


Except it doesn't work fine when overclocked, that's what I'm saying. I'm specifically referring to what appears in Realtemp. When Turbo is set to Auto, Realtemp will display the full range of incremental multipliers, and CPU-Z will concurrently display the full range of voltages. This is SpeedStep functioning correctly.

When Turbo is set to By All Cores or By Per Core for overclocking, Realtemp and CPU-Z do not display the full range. SpeedStep is not functioning correctly. The multiplier in Realtemp will jump directly from 16x to the Turbo multiplier, and in CPU-Z the voltage will jump the same. No in between.

It's not really bad luck either, I build a lot of systems, there's always a fairly consistent amount of defects. That's the nature of QA, you learn to live with it, but it's still annoying when it's for your own rig


----------



## atibbo69

add me please --> ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Maybe i should put it this way.
> With a vcore set manually the voltage will be the most stable anyhow.
> When in offset mode you allow the cpu to ask for a voltage which it will then get the best as the mainboard can. Under load the mainboard cannot deliver what is being asked and the voltage drops... This is called Vdroop. At stock this shouldn't be a problem the chip is designed to handle that. We overclock so that changes. We change the conditions the chip has to operate in. Then laws of physics kick in and here we are. No serious overclocker running for gold will use offset mode anyways. To unpredictable. For a 24/7 overclock it makes kinda sence though. It allows the CPU to relax and might lengthen it's life span. Altough we don't know that.
> Now in offset mode we can predict what the vdroop will be because we can measure that during load. We punch in a offset depending on what the CPU asks (vid) If we keep LLC neutral it will drop. Now we punch in a higher number (Offset not LLC) and.. Yeah the overclock works under load. And idle should be stable. But we need to be energy efficient. So we want to tune idle voltage as well. There LLC is somewhat qiurky but a handy tool. We increase that just one step and everything changes. Not so much drop under load and less overvoltage during idle. This is where beauty is.
> It's a song of fine tuning these two elements your mainboard and CPU offer you. You will need to take baby steps and if you do you will find harmony. The i5 and i7 K series are at stock very good performers as it is. There is at this moment little reason to ask for more because the software and games don't ask for much more. I do too overclock. I have mine stable at 4K5 in offset mode the way i described. Stable in a sence i did prime 95 for 24 hours, Linx 24 hours and idle is always good, most of the time the system is idle.
> Asus and others build LLC in with overclockers in mind.....


Thanks for all of that info. As far as reading all of the posts, I skim most of it as I do not have a lot of free time, but agree more people should read everything first. Looks like I was able to get stable.


----------



## chillidog

am just looking at your vcore for 4.8 @1.448v seem bit high
but their again if it stable and your temps looks good.have you tried reducing the vcore?or try 4.9 with the same vcore setting
my guess for 4.8 you should get down aleast 1.36/38v
am on 5.0 @ 1.42v and my temps are 64 min-68 max on full load


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Except it doesn't work fine when overclocked, that's what I'm saying. I'm specifically referring to what appears in Realtemp. When Turbo is set to Auto, Realtemp will display the full range of incremental multipliers, and CPU-Z will concurrently display the full range of voltages. This is SpeedStep functioning correctly.
> When Turbo is set to By All Cores or By Per Core for overclocking, Realtemp and CPU-Z do not display the full range. SpeedStep is not functioning correctly. The multiplier in Realtemp will jump directly from 16x to the Turbo multiplier, and in CPU-Z the voltage will jump the same. No in between.
> It's not really bad luck either, I build a lot of systems, there's always a fairly consistent amount of defects. That's the nature of QA, you learn to live with it, but it's still annoying when it's for your own rig


Weird with my system it works just fine....


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> am just looking at your vcore for 4.8 @1.448v seem bit high
> but their again if it stable and your temps looks good.have you tried reducing the vcore?or try 4.9 with the same vcore setting
> my guess for 4.8 you should get down aleast 1.36/38v
> am on 5.0 @ 1.42v and my temps are 64 min-68 max on full load


I also think the vcore is a little high. But the temps are very reasonable. I would also try to get it lower though.


----------



## Deano12345

I'll just leave this here


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I'll just leave this here


It says in your sig that you have XMS memory, but those in the picture are HyperX memory??


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> It says in your sig that you have XMS memory, but those in the picture are HyperX memory??


I updated my sig, but I must have not saved it or something, I do actually have the HyperX now, the XMS was my old kit


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> It says in your sig that you have XMS memory, but those in the picture are HyperX memory??
> 
> 
> 
> I updated my sig, but I must have not saved it or something, I do actually have the HyperX now, the XMS was my old kit
Click to expand...

Sometimes it takes up to 24 hours to update your sig rig.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> That is confusing. And a bad design decission IMO. This is then only for the P8Z68-V-LE? Because i'm 100% sure on mine (P8Z68-V) it's the slot nearest to my cpu and it's very blue


I've got egg on my face, the slot closest the CPU on the LE is BLUE. It is the other board (the deluxe gen3) that is the other way around. Sorry, I have my bad moments sometimes. Anyway, I just got that $30 9800GT today and plugged it in (the BLUE slot...lol) and it's working perfectly at x16.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Good catch.
> 
> This brings up a good point about never giving advice based on color, Slot Number, or even physical location as each manufacturer uses a different scheme and some manufacturers have different schemes within brand lines.
> 
> I see this often when installing DIMMs but not quite as often when using PCIe slots.
> 
> The long and short of it is that we should be reading the manual for every single model number and revision before we install our product or give advice based on number, color, or physical orientation on the board; there is no standard between manufacturers and often no standard within a manufacturers product lines.
> 
> It isn't usually too bad on PCIe slots unless you're trying to choose between SLI boards but I've seen this issue show up in some extremely confusing instances for installing RAM.
> 
> DIMMs can get crazy, as some manufacturers take the 1, 2, 3, 4 orientation and tell people that slots 1 and 3 are the best pair or that slots 2 and 4 are the best pair (this is the case on _my board_). They color code them red black red black or blue white blue white or some other scheme and tell users to install in like colors. Other manufacturers think that this is confusing and counter-intuitive so they take the extra step to make it easy for users; they take a 1, 2, 3, 4 physical orientation where slots 2 and 4 are preferred and then rearrange it in a 2, 4, 1, 3 configuration, rename the slots to 1, 2, 3, 4 and then tell users to use slots 1 and 2 first then use slots 3 and 4 for additional pairs. I've also seen them rearrange it in a 1, 3, 2, 4 configuration and then renumber the slots 4, 3, 2, 1 and tell users to install into slots 1 and 2. They are _always_ color coded, but the colors aren't consistent. Asus likes to use blue and white on many of their products (but not the ROG stuff, which is usually red and black) but some Asus boards use white as the preferred DIMM pairing and some boards use blue as the preferred pairing. I've also seen them number the slots as DIMM 0, 1, 2, and 3 and tell users to install in 0 and 2 or 1 and 3.


I agree 100%. This whole color deal just screwed me up something fierce. Why does the same manufacture put slots one way on a board then turn around and make it the opposite way on another (in the same chip family)?? That's just asking for trouble (and I just stepped right into it.) As you pointed out they do it with the DIMMs all the time and very true, they say 1,2,3,4 put yours in this way it's okay, but if you put it in another way, well you get more. Then on either the board one step up (or down) had different colors and confuses the heck out of everyone. It just happened about 20 pages back (here). And if you think the colored coded DIMM slots are nuts, now there's a couple manufactures coloring the actual memory sticks and calling it this or that. Case in point, Corsair. I like Corsair poroducts, but they have a different color for each Vengeance memory stick they have. So someone has red, the next blue the next black. Is this supposed to signify the better memory or to be pretty and match the color coding of the mobo? Crazy....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> I'm sitting here looking at a LE, and it's exactly the same as the other z68. The 16x is blue and closest to the cpu.
> RCPilotJAE, check your board again...
> Look here too http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131773


With egg, mud and something else we won't talk about, all over my face. You are correct. This different color coding of the slots, the dimms, the dimm slots, etc; is getting out of hand. Here's the Asus link to the LE and it shows you're right. http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68V_LE/#specifications
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Good i seem to be not so insane after all... pfewww.


You are not insane. Everything else is....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345*
> 
> I updated my sig, but I must have not saved it or something, I do actually have the HyperX now, the XMS was my old kit


Think that's bad, yesterday I lost 3 or 4 emails that I know where there. The other gentleman I was talking to, well, it happened to him too. Only thing I could think of is something crashed here and they used the only backup they had which lost a couple of things here and there. Arn't computers fun?....


----------



## Mieske666

Lol!!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> I also think the vcore is a little high. But the temps are very reasonable. I would also try to get it lower though.


That is what is killing me. Everyone else is getting great vcore settings and I am really high. I even tried to set it to 1.45 manually and it crashed hard. I am not sure what else to do adjust to keep the vcore down. LLC, VICCO (or whatever it is)?????? I am still new to overclocking. I will just have to sit and read more I guess. Any suggestions would be great...

I looks like I should set the vcore lower and adjust the LLC....


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> ...lol... I remember those days. The Vic 20 and a tape drive, man you where cooking!


Whoaaa, the Vic-20 ! Who can't remember the Turbo Loader ? Or aligning the recorder's head ?

At the time, I made a memory expansion for the vic-20, it was top class: Selectable 8Kb / 16Kb AND reset button !!

Prior to the vic-20, I've also been playing with a spectrum and zx-81. Guess I'm plain old









MaX.


----------



## madchemist83

Try bringing ur llc down


----------



## R.D.BID

Hello everyone, I'm hoping to tap into your infinite wisdom and have you help me with a few questions.

I'm going to be building a new system soon and I'm wonding a few things about the p8p67 deluxe.

1. Can this board run 3 physical GPU's and do it well?
2. Does anyone use the bluetooth feature on this board? If so, what do you use it for? Also, can you use it with a smartphone and any way to use your phone as a remote for media center funtions?
3. Ivy Bridge wil be compatable with this board? If so, only a BIOS update is needed?
4. Is looking for a board with PCIe 3.0 necessary?
5. Does anyone use the dual gigabit lan feature? If so, how do you like it?

Thanks for taking the time to reply! +rep


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R.D.BID*
> 
> Hello everyone, I'm hoping to tap into your infinite wisdom and have you help me with a few questions.
> I'm going to be building a new system soon and I'm wonding a few things about the p8p67 deluxe.
> 1. Can this board run 3 physical GPU's and do it well?
> 2. Does anyone use the bluetooth feature on this board? If so, what do you use it for? Also, can you use it with a smartphone and any way to use your phone as a remote for media center funtions?
> 3. Ivy Bridge wil be compatable with this board? If so, only a BIOS update is needed?
> 4. Is looking for a board with PCIe 3.0 necessary?
> 5. Does anyone use the dual gigabit lan feature? If so, how do you like it?
> Thanks for taking the time to reply! +rep


If you are going to get an 1155 board, I think you should look at the p8z68-v/gen3, pro/gen3, or delux/gen3. If you are going to spend the money at this point these are more "future proof". The gen 3 boards support pcie 3.0 and ivy bridge CPU. You have to have both to unlock the pcie3. This is the next gen stuff coming out starting in April, I think... I have ran to GPU in SLI + a GPU for Physx. It looks like the z68 boards combine the best of both worlds from the P67 and H series boards.

As far as the blue tooth I have played around with it on my board, and I assume it will be the same on the p67 board. However, I did not see anything about controling the whole system. All I have done so far is transfer files, play music, and used the blue tooth power remote. This allows you to connect, via blue tooth, and OC the PC using the turbo OC feature. You just press a button and it changes stuff in bios. Not really useful that I saw. You can also monitor voltages and temps on your phone via that same service.

I am not sure if IVY bridge will be compatible with these boards or not. Will usually have a Gen 3 after the model number. It does not appear that they are.

I would def get one, at this point, that can support pci 3 unless you want to pay another 189+ for a new board in a year or so.

Have not used dual gigabit. I think there is somthing called teaming that some how uses both ports to improve bandwidth.... Sounds cool.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *R.D.BID*
> 
> Hello everyone, I'm hoping to tap into your infinite wisdom and have you help me with a few questions.
> I'm going to be building a new system soon and I'm wonding a few things about the p8p67 deluxe.
> 1. Can this board run 3 physical GPU's and do it well?
> 2. Does anyone use the bluetooth feature on this board? If so, what do you use it for? Also, can you use it with a smartphone and any way to use your phone as a remote for media center funtions?
> 3. Ivy Bridge wil be compatable with this board? If so, only a BIOS update is needed?
> 4. Is looking for a board with PCIe 3.0 necessary?
> 5. Does anyone use the dual gigabit lan feature? If so, how do you like it?
> Thanks for taking the time to reply! +rep
> 
> 
> 
> If you are going to get an 1155 board, I think you should look at the p8z68-v/gen3, pro/gen3, or delux/gen3. If you are going to spend the money at this point these are more "future proof". The gen 3 boards support pcie 3.0 and ivy bridge CPU. You have to have both to unlock the pcie3. This is the next gen stuff coming out starting in April, I think... I have ran to GPU in SLI + a GPU for Physx. It looks like the z68 boards combine the best of both worlds from the P67 and H series boards.
> 
> As far as the blue tooth I have played around with it on my board, and I assume it will be the same on the p67 board. However, I did not see anything about controling the whole system. All I have done so far is transfer files, play music, and used the blue tooth power remote. This allows you to connect, via blue tooth, and OC the PC using the turbo OC feature. You just press a button and it changes stuff in bios. Not really useful that I saw. You can also monitor voltages and temps on your phone via that same service.
> 
> I am not sure if IVY bridge will be compatible with these boards or not. Will usually have a Gen 3 after the model number. It does not appear that they are.
> 
> I would def get one, at this point, that can support pci 3 unless you want to pay another 189+ for a new board in a year or so.
> 
> Have not used dual gigabit. I think there is somthing called teaming that some how uses both ports to improve bandwidth.... Sounds cool.
Click to expand...

The P67 Boards are also Gen3, and also support Ivy Bridge.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Try bringing ur llc down


Ahh! I think it is on auto. Now I see what you are saying. That will give me way too much.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> The P67 Boards are also Gen3, and also support Ivy Bridge.


I thought so, but they do not have pcie 3.0.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131701


----------



## xFk

I have the rev 3.1 pro version and my board and/or pci slots are messed up. basically when i put in my video card(s) in those slots i must force the card towards the back of the case to screw in the pci slot screws. its about 3mm off from the screw holes and i have to apply some decent force to get the screw holes to line up. i just had a 580 lightning xe go bad on me and im wondering if this could be the cause. also, can i rma the board over this issue?


----------



## MooMoo

How I can fix that I can take BIOS screenshots to my memory stick? It says that its not connected but I can still update my BIOS with it


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xFk*
> 
> I have the rev 3.1 pro version and my board and/or pci slots are messed up. basically when i put in my video card(s) in those slots i must force the card towards the back of the case to screw in the pci slot screws. its about 3mm off from the screw holes and i have to apply some decent force to get the screw holes to line up. i just had a 580 lightning xe go bad on me and im wondering if this could be the cause. also, can i rma the board over this issue?


You sure it is not a case orientation issue? Is it possible that your case has the mounting holes for the mobo placed incorrectly? Have you had any other boards in this case?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> You sure it is not a case orientation issue? Is it possible that your case has the mounting holes for the mobo placed incorrectly? Have you had any other boards in this case?


I think his case is bent like mine was. I have an antec 1200 and it was bent like this as well. I just brute force bent it back in to shape.

I'll add that I believe I bent mine moving it the wrong way etc.. who knows really. It happened to me though.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Ahh! I think it is on auto. Now I see what you are saying. That will give me way too much.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Try bringing ur llc down


Okay, I just set the pll voltage to 1.6 manual. I also set the current capability to 130 instead of 140%. Windows booted and is sitting at 1.440 for vcore. I also changed the offset to .05 instead of .1. Before with pll on auto and c3 and c6 enabled, it would not even boot and that offset setting. Do you suggest I set the vcore manually and then play with the pll voltage? Going to prime95 it and go to bed. Hopefully it will not crap out on me and then I can have an idea of where to go from here.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Okay, I just set the pll voltage to 1.6 manual. I also set the current capability to 130 instead of 140%. Windows booted and is sitting at 1.440 for vcore. I also changed the offset to .05 instead of .1. Before with pll on auto and c3 and c6 enabled, it would not even boot and that offset setting. Do you suggest I set the vcore manually and then play with the pll voltage? Going to prime95 it and go to bed. Hopefully it will not crap out on me and then I can have an idea of where to go from here.


I suggest you stay in offset mode and start playing with LLC in relation to the amount of offset. Remember that not every Sandy Bridge is the same. Some request more vcore via VID and that is again related to what the offset vcore will be.


----------



## MooMoo

I also have problem to get this "CPU Fan Error" message off, on startup, because my CPU fan is connected on my fan controller. I've searched from BIOS but havent found anything. Is there way to turn it off? Its anonying to wait 1-2sec more because of stupidness


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Ahh! I think it is on auto. Now I see what you are saying. That will give me way too much.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Try bringing ur llc down
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Okay, I just set the pll voltage to 1.6 manual. I also set the current capability to 130 instead of 140%. Windows booted and is sitting at 1.440 for vcore. I also changed the offset to .05 instead of .1. Before with pll on auto and c3 and c6 enabled, it would not even boot and that offset setting. Do you suggest I set the vcore manually and then play with the pll voltage? Going to prime95 it and go to bed. Hopefully it will not crap out on me and then I can have an idea of where to go from here.
Click to expand...

It's been my experience the pll voltage adjustment has no effect on heat and or lowering of amount of vcore required for a given OC. Rather, I have found it is helpful to increase it, from 1.8v when overclocking the block above 104 other than that we all know lower is better, if stable, so most will lower to 1.6 or what ever rather than the 1.8v stock with that rule of thumb in mind but I think it has very little to do with your situation. You are well aware that every chip is different mine takes 1.424v at 4.8 to be stable and I too wish it was better but it is what it is. You could try incrementally lowering the + value for offset until you reach instability so you know you have tweaked it to the lowest possible value. You could also try lowering your LLC from Ultra High to High from where you are right now and test that. Keep it mind using the offset mode is somewhat of an automatic solution where vcore is set based on need. As it was mentioned earlier the manual mode may be a better solution for you. If you want the power saving features which offset mode is a part of you might consider trying a different PSU. It has been documented some PSU are to blame and incompatible. There is a potential you could stay right where you are with C3 & 6 enabled with a different one. For the moment and with your current PSU you may be well served by using the manual vcore way and disabling all power saving features. This would give you the best chance to get that vcore, albeit static, down to it's lowest level. GL


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> I also have problem to get this "CPU Fan Error" message off, on startup, because my CPU fan is connected on my fan controller. I've searched from BIOS but havent found anything. Is there way to turn it off? Its anonying to wait 1-2sec more because of stupidness


1st of all I recommend dumping the AI Suite II software it's buggy at best beyond that go to the UEFI bios under the Monitor tab and disable CPU Q-Fan Ctrl and Chassis Q-Fan Ctrl, this will leave both at a static 100% and the error message will go away. If you need to attenuate the speeds use a dedicated fan controller.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Okay guys here's a problem I'm having that I haven't found an answer for (yet). I'm using the IRST with a SSD & a 700Gig hard drive (Raid 0). No problems. Then I have 2 more drives (both identical drives) hooked up as raid 1, the D: drive. The problem is that these drives seem to be shutting on and off, acting like they go into sleep mode the second they're not used. This happens so fast it won't even play a video without having to start up, read some data in, then shut down while that data plays and it keeps going this way. I turned on the write-back cache to these drives and it seemed to help a bit, but they're still turning on and off, fast. Even though I'm using the D: drives in raid 1, they are only for storage but it's quite annoying when it has to start the drive(s) every 3 or 4 seconds to read some data and then shut down right after it does (as if to go to sleep) and then start up, read in some more data and kick it out and this process goes over and over again. Any ideas as to what's going on?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> It's been my experience the pll voltage adjustment has no effect on heat and or lowering of amount of vcore required for a given OC. Rather, I have found it is helpful to increase it, from 1.8v when overclocking the block above 104 other than that we all know lower is better, if stable, so most will lower to 1.6 or what ever rather than the 1.8v stock with that rule of thumb in mind but I think it has very little to do with your situation. You are well aware that every chip is different mine takes 1.424v at 4.8 to be stable and I too wish it was better but it is what it is. You could try incrementally lowering the + value for offset until you reach instability so you know you have tweaked it to the lowest possible value. You could also try lowering your LLC from Ultra High to High from where you are right now and test that. Keep it mind using the offset mode is somewhat of an automatic solution where vcore is set based on need. As it was mentioned earlier the manual mode may be a better solution for you. If you want the power saving features which offset mode is a part of you might consider trying a different PSU. It has been documented some PSU are to blame and incompatible. There is a potential you could stay right where you are with C3 & 6 enabled with a different one. For the moment and with your current PSU you may be well served by using the manual vcore way and disabling all power saving features. This would give you the best chance to get that vcore, albeit static, down to it's lowest level. GL


I found that pll does not do much, so I set it back to auto. I lowered the LLC to high and tried all steps between .05 to .1 for the offset value. It all failed while LLC was on high. Looks like I am stable where I am at. Going to try stepping down the off set while in u. high LLC mode. Next weekend I will try manually setting the vcore. However, when I first started OC'ing I had tried setting vcore to 1.45 and that failed. I tries 1.45 - 1.47 and failed every time. I think that I am as good as I can get with these settings. Temps are good. I will messs with manually setting vcore some more next weekend.

Thanks for the help evey one. I think I got a bad chip or need a new PSU....


----------



## EightBallCrnPkt

The Front Panel USB 3.0 box takes up my 3.0 connector on the board. My Case (Corsair Carbide Series 500R) has two 3.0's on it's front panel. Is it possible to add a type of board extension OR where can I find a cable that connects to one of the back panel 3.0 slots, goes thru the inside of the case and connects to the front panel USB 3.0 connector?

Thanks!


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I found that pll does not do much, so I set it back to auto. I lowered the LLC to high and tried all steps between .05 to .1 for the offset value. It all failed while LLC was on high. Looks like I am stable where I am at. Going to try stepping down the off set while in u. high LLC mode. Next weekend I will try manually setting the vcore. However, when I first started OC'ing I had tried setting vcore to 1.45 and that failed. I tries 1.45 - 1.47 and failed every time. I think that I am as good as I can get with these settings. Temps are good. I will messs with manually setting vcore some more next weekend.
> Thanks for the help evey one. I think I got a bad chip or need a new PSU....


You probably just hit the max for your chip. That doesn't make it a bad chip. It's the fastest midrange CPU ever!! It might not be a golden pick but not many have these..

I never tried beyond 4.5GHz with mine. I'm very happy where it is for a stable 24/7 overclock.

Maybe it's time to add me to the club?















The tool i use.... don't laugh







for quick checking if the overclock is stable. And believe it or not is the open source edition of Freespace 2. If the overclock isn't right it crashes with a BSOD after 5-10 minutes or so. You guys should try it. Link to hard-light


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> You probably just hit the max for your chip. That doesn't make it a bad chip. It's the fastest midrange CPU ever!! It might not be a golden pick but not many have these..
> I never tried beyond 4.5GHz with mine. I'm very happy where it is for a stable 24/7 overclock.
> Maybe it's time to add me to the club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool i use.... don't laugh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for quick checking if the overclock is stable. And believe it or not is the open source edition of Freespace 2. If the overclock isn't right it crashes with a BSOD after 5-10 minutes or so. You guys should try it. Link to hard-light


Oh, I am def happy with this OC and think I could get up 5GHZ. I think some of my voltage issues might be from the fact that my PSU may not be most efficient. But, the system works great. This cpu and mobo are the best I have owned for sure.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Slightly off-topic question but how do you install Lucid Virtu? Is there something special you have to do, My install always errors out.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Oh, I am def happy with this OC and think I could get up 5GHZ. I think some of my voltage issues might be from the fact that my PSU may not be most efficient. But, the system works great. This cpu and mobo are the best I have owned for sure.


4.8Ghz was it not? That aint bad at all







some lesser beings might consider you lucky even


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Slightly off-topic question but how do you install Lucid Virtu? Is there something special you have to do, My install always errors out.


Enable the iGPu in bios. For safety of it working connect your monitor at the mainboard. Install the intel graphic drivers and those of the video card. Then once you done that. Install Virtu. But i have to say i din't ever had a clue why to use it in the first place. It doesn't save any energy. And the extra processing you could achieve is for transcoding video in low quality....


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Enable the iGPu in bios. For safety of it working connect your monitor at the mainboard. Install the intel graphic drivers and those of the video card. Then once you done that. Install Virtu. But i have to say i din't ever had a clue why to use it in the first place. It doesn't save any energy. And the extra processing you could achieve is for transcoding video in low quality....


Lucid keeps crashing, so I uninstalled it this morning. Besides, it only save about 2 watts vs not having it at all.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> 4.8Ghz was it not? That aint bad at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some lesser beings might consider you lucky even


4.8 is sweet. I am very happy with this OC.


----------



## Erper

just a quick question...
is it possible on new bios to overclock memory at the same time as cpu...
cause if i setup cpu to 4.8ghz, and my stock memory on 1600 its fine, but if i set up on 4.8 and 1866mhz system wont post...


----------



## chillidog

this might help others out
all works a treat 24/7 stable
this is a reply post i did a few weeks ago:http://www.overclock.net/t/1194475/asus-p8z68-v-pro-i5-2500k-overclock-5-0-info


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> this might help others out
> all works a treat 24/7 stable
> this is a reply post i did a few weeks ago:http://www.overclock.net/t/1194475/asus-p8z68-v-pro-i5-2500k-overclock-5-0-info


This is 24/7 stable? Dude do you know how these tiny components in your chip wil suffer? Don't be surprised if it will give you a few blue screens and when they will start increasing.

Not my bussiness.. so i bud out.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> just a quick question...
> is it possible on new bios to overclock memory at the same time as cpu...
> cause if i setup cpu to 4.8ghz, and my stock memory on 1600 its fine, but if i set up on 4.8 and 1866mhz system wont post...


These CPUs, at least the K series, are meant to be OC'd using the multiplier. I think you have to change the bclock and dram settings to achieve oc on memory. From what I have seen, it is better to leave your RAM at stock clocks and tighten up the timings anyways.....


----------



## Erper

so by changing volts and memory setting u can achive higher speed that stock speed on ram, right???
i thought to leave cpu on 4ghz maybe and increase ram speed...

btw my timing are 9-9-9-24-1t...
what would be good timings for stock speed keeping in mind to leave speed on 1600mhz


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> so by changing volts and memory setting u can achive higher speed that stock speed on ram, right???
> i thought to leave cpu on 4ghz maybe and increase ram speed...
> btw my timing are 9-9-9-24-1t...
> what would be good timings for stock speed keeping in mind to leave speed on 1600mhz


Now, you are starting to get out of my real of knowledge. I had tried Oc RAM and failed miserbly. I would look to see if there is a forum thread on OC'ing/improving timings on your particular memory. GL....


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Now, you are starting to get out of my real of knowledge. I had tried Oc RAM and failed miserbly. I would look to see if there is a forum thread on OC'ing/improving timings on your particular memory. GL....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> so by changing volts and memory setting u can achive higher speed that stock speed on ram, right???
> i thought to leave cpu on 4ghz maybe and increase ram speed...
> btw my timing are 9-9-9-24-1t...
> what would be good timings for stock speed keeping in mind to leave speed on 1600mhz


What do you want to achieve with that? Intel processors are not so sensitive for that.. a 1 procent increase in memory bandwith is all you will ever achieve. Not worth while the trouble IMO. But Intel processors are more sensitive for bandwith increase than in in timings. Low timings don't matter that much. Bandwith does...


----------



## Mieske666

BTW if you start overclocking.... Do leave mem settings safe. That is stock of the mainboard. Don't even think about changing anything in mem till you have a stable overclock on CPU. Overclocking a SB i5 or I7K might be easy but not that easy. You will want to now where it goes wrong somehow right? If you start with overclocking everything there is just no way of knowing.

Read the start of this thread once your done reading this!!







and stop asking questions that have been answered before


----------



## Chubrock

Hi, I would like to join P8Z68 V-Pro as I just completed my 1st build
Thanks,


----------



## madchemist83

try raising ram voltage .. it helps to stabilize oc


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Hey guys! I have had my i5 2500k and ASUS p8z68-v Pro/Gen3 for about a week now. just found the club I know absolutly NOTHING about how to overclock this chip, or what most of the settings do lol. I have manged to get an overclock going and wanted to see what you guys think

First pic is just after IBT finished 20 back to back runs on the maximum RAM setting. CPU Speed is @ 4.7Ghz w/ 1.360v set in the BIOS. Ambiant temp's at the time where 23.3c(74f).



Right after the stress test I did a Cinebench 11.5 run @ the same settings and ambient temps. Results.



So, how dose my set up stack up?? I'll have some pics of the mobo and set up as soon as I get ahold of a digi camera. If I have to I can take some with my cell phone but they will suck Thanks!


----------



## Mieske666

Pretty well i guess. But you haven't given us anything. And cinebench isn't really the best bench you can offer us.

But welcome...


----------



## Mieske666

Do you have some form of extreme cooling?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Pretty well i guess. But you haven't given us anything. And cinebench isn't really the best bench you can offer us.
> But welcome...


What would be a better "offering"?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Do you have some form of extreme cooling?


Not by any means. Silver Arrow, ICD7 TIM, 2x San Ace 1011's and a positive pressure case flow set up.


----------



## Mieske666

Your better offering could be a CPU under load. For what's it's worth wer are the same in cooling. But give us not only idle screenies... ? That's a bit lame to be honest.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Your better offering could be a CPU under load. For the what we are are the same in cooling. But give us not only idle screenies... ? That's a bit lame to be honest.


Sorry, I'm in the habbit of not taking snips while in the middle of a bench or stresstest. one moment though.


----------



## Mieske666

I should grant you that


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Here you go, While running Prime95 on blend. I have some BF3 action planned tonight with a friend. After the death and dismay I will let it run prime for an extended amount of time. 8 hours or more. I'll post a snip tomorrow of the finished run. This is just a taste lol


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> BTW if you start overclocking.... Do leave mem settings safe. That is stock of the mainboard. Don't even think about changing anything in mem till you have a stable overclock on CPU. Overclocking a SB i5 or I7K might be easy but not that easy. You will want to now where it goes wrong somehow right? If you start with overclocking everything there is just no way of knowing.
> Read the start of this thread once your done reading this!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and stop asking questions that have been answered before


i dont like your attitude, ok...
i said i was asking quick question about it, ok...
creep...
my cpu is already OCed to 4.8 but since this bios is improvement to old one i just wanted to check is it possible...


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Here you go, While running Prime95 on blend. I have some BF3 action planned tonight with a friend. After the death and dismay I will let it run prime for an extended amount of time. 8 hours or more. I'll post a snip tomorrow of the finished run. This is just a taste lol


You should move all the app screens. They get in the way of your desktop pic... JK









System looks really good, but only if you are stable at load. Go to the first page of this thread and get the specific details on what exactly you need for the tests and screen shots.


----------



## madchemist83

hey erper what temps u getting ? at 4.8 Ghz ? on ibt?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> This is 24/7 stable? Dude do you know how these tiny components in your chip wil suffer? Don't be surprised if it will give you a few blue screens and when they will start increasing.
> Not my bussiness.. so i bud out.


hey Mieske666

you got that right mate quote:Not my bussiness.. so i bud out:thumb:

if you like to know my system runs just fine on the settings i have shown 24/7 without any bsod's at all.i play most games but mainly bf3 all maxed out without any problems i have been known to play bf3 6-7hrs a day and if i was going to have any bsods it would of happen during these times.








like i have said not all 2500k chips will get over 4.8 +
but this is a template for some newbie's to start from and get a feel of ocing and adjust the settings as and when they need to

so mieske666 if i was you just stick to your music production only


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi all, a Bluetooth question: do you think it's possible to connect a smartphone to the PC (I have a p8z68-v gen3) over bluetooth and have the phone use the PC's internet connection ?

I'm positive I can do it with a wifi connection between phone and PC, I'm not sure if using an usb cable (but I don't have it so I dont care) and I'm unable to get it done via bluetooth.

If I open the bluetooth settings, in the Share tab, I have the option "Allow bluetotth devices to use your modem to connect to the internet or to send a fax", but the option is grayed out ...

MaX.


----------



## jacksknight

Hey guys a little help if you could.

What version of these boards should i get for 200 or less? Also is the pro version better than the vanilla version?

And Which board would be the best for OCing and gaming?

Thanks alot!

EDIT:

Oh yeah sticking with the p67 series, i dont think i need the p68.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacksknight*
> 
> Hey guys a little help if you could.
> What version of these boards should i get for 200 or less? Also is the pro version better than the vanilla version?
> And Which board would be the best for OCing and gaming?
> Thanks alot!
> EDIT:
> Oh yeah sticking with the p67 series, i dont think i need the p68.


if you can, microcenter had a deal right now. If you guy an i5 2500k for 179.99+tax you also get $50 off any compatible mobo. Not sure if you need the CPU too, but that is how I got my board for cheap


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> hey erper what temps u getting ? at 4.8 Ghz ? on ibt?


Its around 72-75...
I think thats prety good considering its only h50 on it..
I saw couple guy running it on higher temps with h60 and h80


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Hi all, a Bluetooth question: do you think it's possible to connect a smartphone to the PC (I have a p8z68-v gen3) over bluetooth and have the phone use the PC's internet connection ?
> I'm positive I can do it with a wifi connection between phone and PC, I'm not sure if using an usb cable (but I don't have it so I dont care) and I'm unable to get it done via bluetooth.
> If I open the bluetooth settings, in the Share tab, I have the option "Allow bluetotth devices to use your modem to connect to the internet or to send a fax", but the option is grayed out ...
> MaX.


I don't know why you would want to do this when you can connect directly to your wifi modem. I had mine connected to my wifi and it actually gets me worse speeds. When I disable the connection with my phone it then pops up to my 3g speed, Connected to the modem all I get is a regular phone speed. For the longest time I was mad at buying a 3g phone and paying for a service I never got until I reset my phone and it came alive with speed. No more waiting 5 minutes for a simple webpage to appear. Nope, I would not bother to connect this way unless you don't have a 3/4g capable phone.


----------



## paradoxum

I can't update my P8P67 PRO B3 revision bios. it's on "1850" now, and the latest seems to be 2103, but when I try to update it says file check failed or something like that. the file is fine it's not corrupt or anything, but it just won't accept it - why?


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> I don't know why you would want to do this when you can connect directly to your wifi modem. I had mine connected to my wifi and it actually gets me worse speeds. When I disable the connection with my phone it then pops up to my 3g speed, Connected to the modem all I get is a regular phone speed. For the longest time I was mad at buying a 3g phone and paying for a service I never got until I reset my phone and it came alive with speed. No more waiting 5 minutes for a simple webpage to appear. Nope, I would not bother to connect this way unless you don't have a 3/4g capable phone.


Not sure you've understood my issue.

I want my phone to use my PC's internet connection, this over bluetooth. I don't want to do the opposite (connecting my PC to the internet via my phone's modem over 3G).

My phone has no wifi, so connecting my phone straight to my PC over wifi is not an option.

The bluetooth connection works fine, I can transfer files, sync the phonebook etc. But I can't allow my computer's "modem" to be used by the phone: the option is there in Win7 Bluetooth properties/settings, but it's grayed out.

Maybe it's just the BT protocol that doesn't allow this, no idea.

MaX.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EightBallCrnPkt*
> 
> The Front Panel USB 3.0 box takes up my 3.0 connector on the board. My Case (Corsair Carbide Series 500R) has two 3.0's on it's front panel. Is it possible to add a type of board extension OR where can I find a cable that connects to one of the back panel 3.0 slots, goes thru the inside of the case and connects to the front panel USB 3.0 connector?
> Thanks!


Yes, there's cables you can buy to run from the mobo to the front 3.0 USB ports. Try New-Egg or Tigerdirect and if not found there then http://www.xoxide.com/ will have it. (They even have a cable to go from the back slots to the front.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Slightly off-topic question but how do you install Lucid Virtu? Is there something special you have to do, My install always errors out.


Have you enabled it in your BIOS, then installed the software?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chubrock*
> 
> Hi, I would like to join P8Z68 V-Pro as I just completed my 1st build
> Thanks,


Easy to join, take a snapshot of your screen running something like CPU-Z (which will show that you are indeed running that mobo). Post the pix (or screen shot) and they'll add you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> i dont like your attitude, ok...
> i said i was asking quick question about it, ok...
> creep...
> my cpu is already OCed to 4.8 but since this bios is improvement to old one i just wanted to check is it possible...


I should mind my own business, but it's that a lot of folks ask the same overclocking questions over and over again and recently there's been a lot of posts that say to go to the beginning of this thread and you'll find 98% of the answers there. Not to mention we all get a little cranky sometimes..







Please ignore it and I'll shut up and mind my own now....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> I can't update my P8P67 PRO B3 revision bios. it's on "1850" now, and the latest seems to be 2103, but when I try to update it says file check failed or something like that. the file is fine it's not corrupt or anything, but it just won't accept it - why?


That's odd. Have you gone into your BIO's and then did the update from there? You'll need a USB memory stick. Put the update on the stick, then boot into your BIO's and run the program to update. Should work like a charm.


----------



## xFk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xFk*
> 
> I have the rev 3.1 pro version and my board and/or pci slots are messed up. basically when i put in my video card(s) in those slots i must force the card towards the back of the case to screw in the pci slot screws. its about 3mm off from the screw holes and i have to apply some decent force to get the screw holes to line up. i just had a 580 lightning xe go bad on me and im wondering if this could be the cause. also, can i rma the board over this issue?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> You sure it is not a case orientation issue? Is it possible that your case has the mounting holes for the mobo placed incorrectly? Have you had any other boards in this case?


Well, the 1st case i had the board in had the same problem and then i sold the case to my brother. When i puts his mobo/video card in it lined up perfectly. now with my new case i am having the same issue, so i have to assume it the mobo at this point.


----------



## madchemist83

I have same temps too








Only I have to run mine on high rpm.r


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

ok, so lastnight's BF3 escipade's took longer than expected. and this morning I was using the PC for more stuff. over an hour ago I started prime to run the 8 hour test. Its been running over an hour while i surf the web..I don't even notice its running. room temp is 70f/21c. Prime is still running as I post this. Will post full results tonight


----------



## Erper

you look good....
keep us informed of temps and crashes if they occur


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> you look good....
> keep us informed of temps and crashes if they occur


They should be fine. So far I have ran IBT for 40 pass's strait though on the maximum setting. Went fine temps are much much cooler with prime lol.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Not sure you've understood my issue.
> I want my phone to use my PC's internet connection, this over bluetooth. I don't want to do the opposite (connecting my PC to the internet via my phone's modem over 3G).
> My phone has no wifi, so connecting my phone straight to my PC over wifi is not an option.
> The bluetooth connection works fine, I can transfer files, sync the phonebook etc. But I can't allow my computer's "modem" to be used by the phone: the option is there in Win7 Bluetooth properties/settings, but it's grayed out.
> Maybe it's just the BT protocol that doesn't allow this, no idea.
> MaX.


That is where I misunderstood that your phone does not have wifi. Connection through bluetooth varies by the phone. I don't get all of the options available to me with AI Suite II on my Android and what it does allow is pretty much useless so I disable bluetooth. You may try the Asus forums as well for an answer or to post your question.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Coming up on the 5 hour mark!I'll post when stability has been confirmed. How long do you intel guys run prime95? for my AMD's I would do an 8 hour run and call it done. Is 8 enough for Intel stability? or should I let it go longer? Thanks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Coming up on the 5 hour mark!I'll post when stability has been confirmed. How long do you intel guys run prime95? for my AMD's I would do an 8 hour run and call it done. Is 8 enough for Intel stability? or should I let it go longer? Thanks.


I always run 12 hours (minimum) of custom Prime95 blend (forcing all but 1GB of RAM usage).


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I always run 12 hours (minimum) of custom Prime95 blend (forcing all but 1GB of RAM usage).


gerrr. I didn't force all but one gig of RAM usage..should I start it over?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I always run 12 hours (minimum) of custom Prime95 blend (forcing all but 1GB of RAM usage).
> 
> 
> 
> gerrr. I didn't force all but one gig of RAM usage..should I start it over?
Click to expand...

If you want to make sure your IMC and RAM are stable...yeah.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> If you want to make sure your IMC and RAM are stable...yeah.


gerrrr.....I'll restart the test tonight when I go to bed.. been stuck serfing the web for 4 hours already lol. I'll be able to post results tomorrow. But I know the memory is stable. Passed countless runs on IBT on maximum just fine
Thanks.

EDIT/UPDATE: ok. Started the new prime run, Should be done in around 12 hours I'll post a screen when its complete. Thanks Pioneerisloud.


----------



## madchemist83

honestly 8 hrs or 12 hrs or 1000000000 hrs of Prime not gonna show you anything ... pc will not all of a sudden crap out at 11:59:59
I say 20 IBT on almost max is enough for general stability


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> honestly 8 hrs or 12 hrs or 1000000000 hrs of Prime not gonna show you anything ... pc will not all of a sudden crap out at 11:59:59
> I say 20 IBT on almost max is enough for general stability


Yea. With my AMD's I would always use 20-40 runs of maximum IBT for proof of stability. But this won't bother me too much. Idon't feel like playing Bf3 tonight so I started the custom blend prime about an hour ago. Been serfing the net while it runs. been at 100% CPU usage and 89-90% RAM usage. temps are fine. serf's the net and watch's movie's like a champ while priming lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> honestly 8 hrs or 12 hrs or 1000000000 hrs of Prime not gonna show you anything ... pc will not all of a sudden crap out at 11:59:59
> I say 20 IBT on almost max is enough for general stability


Except that IBT doesn't stress test SB. I've passed 500 runs of IBT on maximum, only to fail 30 seconds into Prime. All IBT does is get things hot, that's it.

And I have had Prime runs fail at 9-10 hours in or so, and they'll give me random blue screens doing simple tasks. If I pass 12 hours, I never have a problem at all.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Except that IBT doesn't stress test SB. I've passed 500 runs of IBT on maximum, only to fail 30 seconds into Prime. All IBT does is get things hot, that's it.
> And I have had Prime runs fail at 9-10 hours in or so, and they'll give me random blue screens doing simple tasks. If I pass 12 hours, I never have a problem at all.


check.

So far. I have ran a few 30min-4 hour prime sessions, lots of IBT on maximum(80 or so runs, 40 of them back to back). along with A LOT of Skyrim and BF3 in the last week. all at the same settings I'm on now. Not a single problem yet but we will have confirmation tomorrow morning.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Except that IBT doesn't stress test SB. I've passed 500 runs of IBT on maximum, only to fail 30 seconds into Prime. All IBT does is get things hot, that's it.
> And I have had Prime runs fail at 9-10 hours in or so, and they'll give me random blue screens doing simple tasks. If I pass 12 hours, I never have a problem at all.
> 
> 
> 
> check.
> 
> So far. I have ran a few 30min-4 hour prime sessions, lots of IBT on maximum(80 or so runs, 40 of them back to back). along with A LOT of Skyrim and BF3 in the last week. all at the same settings I'm on now. Not a single problem yet but we will have confirmation tomorrow morning.
Click to expand...

Well, stability is always subjective. If its stable enough for you, then its stable enough. The biggest problem with unstable machines is the random blue screens, and the eventual corruption of Windows.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Well, stability is always subjective. If its stable enough for you, then its stable enough. The biggest problem with unstable machines is the random blue screens, and the eventual corruption of Windows.


true. However, I did ask you guys what was needed to prove stability by tomorrow morning we will know for sure if it is or is not stable thanks for the tips


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Except that IBT doesn't stress test SB. I've passed 500 runs of IBT on maximum, only to fail 30 seconds into Prime. All IBT does is get things hot, that's it.
> And I have had Prime runs fail at 9-10 hours in or so, and they'll give me random blue screens doing simple tasks. If I pass 12 hours, I never have a problem at all.


This. I ran 100 runs of IBT on my 2500K at 4.6 and it passed, but not so long into a League of Legends game, my system BSOD'ed with 124 code, theen I get another BSOD of code 001 after restarting the game with a slight bump in vCore .Bumped up the vCore about four times with 0.05V intervals to finally get it stable with 12 hours of Prime Large FFT. Will test again with Small FFT and Blend.


----------



## MGF Derp

Can I join?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> Can I join?


cannot see pic

Also, as proof of stability we require 1000000000000 hours of prime. 250165476876168 runs of IBT on stupid high uber ultra maxium along with your 1st,2nd and 15th child.

lol. Totaly joking


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> cannot see pic
> Also, as proof of stability we require 1000000000000 hours of prime. 250165476876168 runs of IBT on stupid high uber ultra maxium along with your 1st,2nd and 15th child.
> lol. Totaly joking


But can you see the pic though? I can get a photo of the board later. OCing right now and dont want to stop


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> But can you see the pic though? I can get a photo of the board later. OCing right now and dont want to stop


I cannot. Its too small and I cannot click on it. what clock speeds are you testing?


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> But can you see the pic though? I can get a photo of the board later. OCing right now and dont want to stop


Upload the pic to this site. That way he can see it full size (click on it).


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

add me plz
ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3


----------



## MGF Derp

Better? Testing BCLK. Got it to 105 in that CPU-Z. Going to try 106. Didnt like 107. And chip does at least a 50x so thats something.


----------



## madchemist83

I don't know if you wan to change BCLK .. it's not recommended for SB.
Just up ur multi and voltage


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 1st of all I recommend dumping the AI Suite II software it's buggy at best beyond that go to the UEFI bios under the Monitor tab and disable CPU Q-Fan Ctrl and Chassis Q-Fan Ctrl, this will leave both at a static 100% and the error message will go away. If you need to attenuate the speeds use a dedicated fan controller.


Did you even read what I said?
My CPU Fan IS Connected to dedicated fan controller...
Even when I turn those Q-fan stuff off, it wont go away, and I already had them off.
And I know that AI Suite II is sucky&buggy, dont even have it installed.
Any better info?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> ]
> Better? Testing BCLK. Got it to 105 in that CPU-Z. Going to try 106. Didnt like 107. And chip does at least a 50x so thats something.


I can see the pics now

Update on my situatuion too I just woke up and prime95 has been running all night on custom blend using all but one gig or RAM. we are at the 11hour mark. At around 6 I'll post the final pic of prime running Woot!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> They should be fine. So far I have ran IBT for 40 pass's strait though on the maximum setting. Went fine temps are much much cooler with prime lol.


I also suggest staying away from IBT since it is not that reliable for stress testing. And yes it will just give you +10°C load temps as compared to Prime.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

DONE! 12 hours of custom Blend using 89-90% of my 8 gig kit. hung out at 6.96-7.11Gb used. So, here is the proof.
First pic has prime still running after 12 hours, You can see RAM usage and CPU usage, along with the clock speed and the current voltage in CPU-z. OHW also sow's the CPU load, and the CPU core temps. You can also see the CPU wattage, and the Vcore my CPU peaked at while taking the test.


The next pic I changed CPUZ to the main board for proof of mobo Prime is still running.


Can I please please please call it stable now lolol







I also wanna join the club, this board rocks socks! Thank you guys for the tips on stress testing my new i5 2500k







was a fun night.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Did you even read what I said?
> My CPU Fan IS Connected to dedicated fan controller...
> Even when I turn those Q-fan stuff off, it wont go away, and I already had them off.
> And I know that AI Suite II is sucky&buggy, dont even have it installed.
> Any better info?


Cant say Ive used it outside Silent and Turbo but had no issues with the Ai crap for fan control. Everything but the cpu fan is on a controller though. What Ai is truly bad about other then being cruddy when the cpu is loaded is it tells you random crap about your temps and voltages which arent even true according to the app itself. I turned those notices off.

As to your problem ill take a look later im headed to bed.


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> I don't know if you wan to change BCLK .. it's not recommended for SB.
> Just up ur multi and voltage


True SB doesnt like upped BCLK, but that doesn't mean you cant do it. Gotta squeeze evey last Mhz out of it. Also does anyone know how to get this motherboard to stop yelling at me when I put the voltage over 1.54? That would help alot.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> True SB doesnt like upped BCLK, but that doesn't mean you cant do it. Gotta squeeze evey last Mhz out of it. Also does anyone know how to get this motherboard to stop yelling at me when I put the voltage over 1.54? That would help alot.


get rid of the AI suite program lol


----------



## poly359

Hi, id like to join the club, i have an Asus P8 Z68-v / Gen3 Motherboard on my Pack-A-Punch Rig


----------



## paradoxum

Am I ok to run at 4.7GHz / 1.28v 24/7?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> Am I ok to run at 4.7GHz / 1.28v 24/7?


I'm running 4.7 at 1.360v 24/7. I think your good. lol.


----------



## kraze

I've read that these mobos tend to burn and kill CPUs too. How often does it happen/how severe is it?
Want to know if it's worth risking buying Asus mobo on P67 chipset now


----------



## swarm87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kraze*
> 
> I've read that these mobos tend to burn and kill CPUs too. How often does it happen/how severe is it?
> Want to know if it's worth risking buying Asus mobo on P67 chipset now


where'd you read that? was planning on getting a p8z68-v pro/gen 3 but if this is true.....


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kraze*
> 
> I've read that these mobos tend to burn and kill CPUs too. How often does it happen/how severe is it?
> Want to know if it's worth risking buying Asus mobo on P67 chipset now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swarm87*
> 
> where'd you read that? was planning on getting a p8z68-v pro/gen 3 but if this is true.....


I did a great deal of reading about mobo's before I bought my p8z68-v pro/gen3 last week. The mobo was HIGHLY recommended by OCN members. I never once heard of them tending to "burn and kill" CPU's, or I would have gotten the ASRock x68 extreme 4 gen3 lol.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> Can I join?


Yes, you can join, but it has to be a Casher's Check for $1,000,000.00 payable to me......








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> 
> Better? Testing BCLK. Got it to 105 in that CPU-Z. Going to try 106. Didnt like 107. And chip does at least a 50x so thats something.


Better, but take the screen shot of just CPU-Z (if your program allows it)...Then it'll be bigger and easier to view. (BTW, did you send the check yet?)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poly359*
> 
> Hi, id like to join the club, i have an Asus P8 Z68-v / Gen3 Motherboard on my Pack-A-Punch Rig


What you do is take a screen shot of CPU-Z and post it..Showing the model of your board. .Like this (example)...


----------



## munaim1

Finally updated the OP (20+ pages to go through), welcome new club members


----------



## Danger72

ALT + PRINTSCRN will give you a screenshot of JUST the window that is in focus.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> honestly 8 hrs or 12 hrs or 1000000000 hrs of Prime not gonna show you anything ... pc will not all of a sudden crap out at 11:59:59
> I say 20 IBT on almost max is enough for general stability
> 
> 
> 
> Except that IBT doesn't stress test SB. I've passed 500 runs of IBT on maximum, only to fail 30 seconds into Prime. All IBT does is get things hot, that's it.
> 
> And I have had Prime runs fail at 9-10 hours in or so, and they'll give me random blue screens doing simple tasks. If I pass 12 hours, I never have a problem at all.
Click to expand...

That's because it takes nearly 18 hours with our SB chips to hit every FFT that Prime95 has before it begins to recycle FFT lengths if you're doing a blend test or a custom blend test and you leave the FFT time at 15 minutes. There are 72 FFT lengths P95 will test and at 15 minutes... do the math. 

If you want a quick and dirty rough guess stability test, you can reduce the FFT times to 1 minute and then allow P95 to run for 72 (more like 85 due to some weird core latency balance issues) to cycle through each FFT a minute at a time. There are two FFT lengths that stress the SB in ways that seem to cause the most errors: 1344 and 1792 and you won't hit both of those in a 2 or 3 hour blend test unless you change the FFT time.

So I'm going to have to agree with pioneerisloud: IBT gets things hot and is a rough indicator of maximum power consumption and can be very useful for watching maximum Vdroop and also tuning your voltage as low as possible for a given clock and seeing what sort of impact that has on GFlop/s performance. I know that at my previous 4.7 GHz OC, I was hitting some internal throttles (remaining at 4.7 GHz though) and my GFlop/s were much lower than they are now, with a reduced core voltage. IBT helped me tune that aspect of my OC.

However, for stability, IBT was darned near worthless, as the *only* things I've found to truly test stability were an 18 hour Prime95 Custom Blend using 95% of my RAM (and hitting on every FFT length for 15 minutes) and then 24/7 SMP folding.

I thought I was stable at 4.8 GHz. I wasn't truly stable until I backed down to 4.7 GHz. Then I tuned my voltage and LLC to as low as possible to remain stable and have the most power-efficient performance possible, which increased my GFlop/s, my benchmark scores, and my PPD on Folding.


----------



## lolvik

Running 48x myself at the moment.
Haven't bothered stress testing tbh..

It's been fine running 24/7, gaming, movies, browsing, whatever for three weeks or so now.

I did have a lockup during my screen saver last night apperently though, I just can't be assed. ):

Quote:


> And I have had Prime runs fail at 9-10 hours in or so, and they'll give me random blue screens doing simple tasks. If I pass 12 hours, I never have a problem at all.


Honestly think that's more in your head than anything else.

How do I disable ALL throttling btw?
Atm I'm getting 16x idle, and 48x load.


----------



## KilgoreTrout XL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> I've got egg on my face, the slot closest the CPU on the LE is BLUE. It is the other board (the deluxe gen3) that is the other way around. Sorry, I have my bad moments sometimes. Anyway, I just got that $30 9800GT today and plugged it in (the BLUE slot...lol) and it's working perfectly at x16.


So, by using my "fix" of putting the video card (GTX 560 Ti) in the black slot, x2 speed? I haven't noticed any reduction in visual quality/framerates afterwards. I'll check CPU-Z and GPU-Z when I get home to see what they say, though I'm hesitant to mess with it. It's been stable for a while now and I don't want to return to the world of repeated bluescreens.


----------



## porksmuggler

The black slot is x4 on the LE. You have the same issue I have on the GEN3, a defective x16 slot.

x4 is good for a theoretical 2GB/sec, compared to 8GB/sec on x16. If you're not going to RMA, I guess there's not much point in worrying about it though...

but here's a recent article on the bottleneck for a faster 7970:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5458/the-radeon-hd-7970-reprise-pcie-bandwidth-overclocking-and-msaa


----------



## FourDoor

Hi guys, I am building my first ever rig since back in the 486dx days and was looking for a little advice as I get up to speed with all of the current hardware thats out. The PC will primarily be used for picture editing with Photoshop and Lightroom with some gaming thrown in on the side. I already picked up an i7-2600k as well as a Corsair H100 for some cooling. I narrowed down my search to the P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 and P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 boards as I wanted PCI 3.0 and a GEN3 board. I need this PC to last me at least 4-5years and was looking for a little direction.

Current Components Selected:

Motherboard: P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 or P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
CPU: i7-2600k
CPU Cooling: Corsair H100
GPU: Will be waiting for the GTX 680 to be released
RAM: 16GB Vengeance unless someone has a better recommendation
SSD: 256GB M4
Power Supply: NZXT HALE90 1000W
CASE: NZXT Phantom

If I go with the PRO GEN3, I can use the onboard video for the next month or 2 while I await the new Nvidia cards to be released (apparently Photoshop runs better on cuda). If I go with the DELUXE GEN3 then I'd have to buy a cheaper hold over card that will last me a couple of months that I can hopefully reuse in another PC.

Outside of the lack of onboard video capabilities, what other features/advantages does the DELUXE has over the PRO model that should make me choose the DELUXE model over the PRO? This will also be my first time delving into over clocking so I'm not quite sure what to look out for in the different boards yet.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FourDoor*
> 
> If I go with the PRO GEN3, I can use the onboard video for the next month or 2 while I await the new Nvidia cards to be released (apparently Photoshop runs better on cuda). If I go with the DELUXE GEN3 then I'd have to buy a cheaper hold over card that will last me a couple of months that I can hopefully reuse in another PC.
> Outside of the lack of onboard video capabilities, what other features/advantages does the DELUXE has over the PRO model that should make me choose the DELUXE model over the PRO? This will also be my first time delving into over clocking so I'm not quite sure what to look out for in the different boards yet.


The GEN3, and Pro GEN3 have onboard video via the CPU. You mentioned wanting PCIe 3.0, so be aware, you must have not just a PCIe 3.0 motherboard, but also a PCIe 3.0 video card, and an Ivy Bridge processor.

Otherwise, with the 2600K you have, all three boards are PCIe 2.0 x16 single card, or x8 for SLI/CrossFire

*edit* more info:
http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/PCIe3_Ready


----------



## FourDoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> The GEN3, Pro GEN3, and Deluxe GEN3 all have onboard video via the CPU. You mentioned wanting PCIe 3.0, so be aware, you must have not just a PCIe 3.0 motherboard, but also a PCIe 3.0 video card, and an Ivy Bridge processor.
> Otherwise, with the 2600K you have, all three boards are PCIe 2.0 x16 single card, or x8 for SLI/CrossFire
> *edit* more info:
> http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/PCIe3_Ready/


Sorry I wasn't clear. I primarily wanted the PCIe3 and GEN3 for future upgrade paths in the future into Ivy Bridge. I would love to wait a few more months for Ivy bridge to come out but I need a new PC now and the 2600k recently went on sale which pushed me to purchase. I know I am purchasing and building at a time where new cards and processors are just around the corner so I figured it would be a good time to choose a board that would let me upgrade later without too much hassle. In my eyes, I could always upgrade video cards, RAM, and CPUs easily but not so much with the motherboard which is why I'm having a hard time deciding between the 2 boards.

The Deluxe GEN3 does not have DVI/VGA/HDMI and would require me to pick up a new video card right away.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FourDoor*
> 
> Hi guys, I am building my first ever rig since back in the 486dx days and was looking for a little advice as I get up to speed with all of the current hardware thats out. The PC will primarily be used for picture editing with Photoshop and Lightroom with some gaming thrown in on the side. I already picked up an i7-2600k as well as a Corsair H100 for some cooling. I narrowed down my search to the P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 and P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 boards as I wanted PCI 3.0 and a GEN3 board. I need this PC to last me at least 4-5years and was looking for a little direction.
> 
> Current Components Selected:
> 
> Motherboard: P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 or P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> CPU: i7-2600k
> CPU Cooling: Corsair H100
> GPU: Will be waiting for the GTX 680 to be released
> RAM: 16GB Vengeance unless someone has a better recommendation
> SSD: 256GB M4
> Power Supply: NZXT HALE90 1000W
> CASE: NZXT Phantom
> 
> If I go with the PRO GEN3, I can use the onboard video for the next month or 2 while I await the new Nvidia cards to be released (apparently Photoshop runs better on cuda). If I go with the DELUXE GEN3 then I'd have to buy a cheaper hold over card that will last me a couple of months that I can hopefully reuse in another PC.
> 
> Outside of the lack of onboard video capabilities, what other features/advantages does the DELUXE has over the PRO model that should make me choose the DELUXE model over the PRO? This will also be my first time delving into over clocking so I'm not quite sure what to look out for in the different boards yet.


*On the RAM:*

You're wasting your money, electricity, and potentially hurting your OC performance if you install 4 DIMMs for 4x4GB = 16GB of RAM.

You're going to get better performance from a faster 2x4GB = 8GB of RAM in a dual-channel motherboard. I can give you a very lengthy explanation on why this is, but the long and short of it is that completely filling the DIMM slots with RAM puts a heavier load on your memory controller, introduces more latency into your system, and causes your system to under-clock your RAM and/or reduce your RAM timings.

I suggest that you go with a 1600 or 1833 set of RAM in a 2 module configuration. Unless you are editing extremely large image files (in Maya for example) , working with autoCAD (or some other autodesk product), or doing heavy video editing in 3d studio max, or something else that requires gobs of system memory, then you do not need 16 GB of RAM, will never use 16GB of RAM and will only be hurting your performance if you install 4 memory modules in your motherboard.

With RAM, more is not always better. Even going with 2x8GB = 16 GB of RAM in just 2 DIMMs (if you can afford it) will put a heavier load on your memory controller due to the number of chips on each DIMM.

The ideal amount with modern games and Windows 7 (or even Vista), while still allowing plenty of headroom for future applications is between 4 GB and 8 GB of system RAM. For me, 6 GB was ideal, but since DIMMs come in 1, 2, 4, and 8 GB configurations, I went with 2x4 = 8.

The extreme overclockers setting world records usually go with 2x1 = 2 GB because they can get insanely fast frequencies and timings out of it and because it puts such a low draw on the voltage and current regulation circuits that it gives them the extra tiny bit of performance they need at the extreme benching they're doing. The reason for that is the same as the principles I described above.

If you want a more detailed explanation or "proof" of it, let me know and I can digress into a lengthy discussion about it. Otherwise, take the layman's explanation I just gave and order yourself 2x4 GB of high performance RAM and know that you've got a faster system than if you go with 16 GB.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FourDoor*
> 
> If I go with the PRO GEN3, I can use the onboard video for the next month or 2 while I await the new Nvidia cards to be released (apparently Photoshop runs better on cuda). If I go with the DELUXE GEN3 then I'd have to buy a cheaper hold over card that will last me a couple of months that I can hopefully reuse in another PC.
> Outside of the lack of onboard video capabilities, what other features/advantages does the DELUXE has over the PRO model that should make me choose the DELUXE model over the PRO? This will also be my first time delving into over clocking so I'm not quite sure what to look out for in the different boards yet.
> 
> 
> 
> The GEN3, Pro GEN3, and Deluxe GEN3 all have onboard video via the CPU. You mentioned wanting PCIe 3.0, so be aware, you must have not just a PCIe 3.0 motherboard, but also a PCIe 3.0 video card, and an Ivy Bridge processor.
> 
> Otherwise, with the 2600K you have, all three boards are PCIe 2.0 x16 single card, or x8 for SLI/CrossFire
Click to expand...

If the main criterion for your motherboard choice is overclocking then the most important feature you can look at is the reliability of the VRM circuitry. Voltage (and current) regulation will make a significant difference in how high you can take a clock and remain stable. "Cheap" motherboards typically have poor VRM, perform just fine at stock speeds, but will be unstable at even moderate overclocks. The relatively high end boards or mid-range boards from reputable manufacturers will do well at mild to even high overclocks and the top of the line enthusiast or extreme boards are usually only worth the extra money if you get lucky on a CPU that can take full advantage of their performance.

Both the Deluxe and the Pro are good boards.

This thread, http://www.overclock.net/t/916189/official-intel-p67-z68-motherboard-comparison-list-oc-results , will give you a better idea of what the detailed differences are between the Deluxe and Pro.

A link to the spreadsheet is here: https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0AoXai57oo6AGdHJNSXNXVUNqbHZoTlZjblV2cVJUTlE&w=291&h=2175

The deluxe is the better of the two boards for overclocking and is priced accordingly.

Both boards are single PCIe x16 or dual SLI PCIe x8. The pro has one additional standard PCI slot (not PCIe or PCIe x4). The pro has HDMI/VGA/DVI out and the deluxe does not. The deluxe has 2 extra SATA 6.0 Gb ports for a total of 4 (the 2 extra are from the Marvell controller) and also has 2 LAN ports, whereas the pro has only 2 SATA 6.0 Gbs ports and 1 LAN port.

The Deluxe has 2 USB 3.0 and 8 USB 2.0 and the Pro has 3 USB 3.0 and 6 USB 2.0

*The deluxe has 16 phase VRM and the Pro has 12 Phase VRM* and that's where the deluxe is truly superior to the pro.


----------



## stevman17

I have a question guys and gals. I have this optical drive. I was wondering if I could use it as an "external drive" by plugging it into my power eSATA port. Is this possible? If so, what cable would I need?

The reason I would like to do this is because all of my 5.25" bays are currently taken up by a fan and a fan controller. So, I would like to be able to use my burner without running cables from inside my case.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FourDoor*
> 
> Sorry I wasn't clear. I primarily wanted the PCIe3 and GEN3 for future upgrade paths in the future into Ivy Bridge. I would love to wait a few more months for Ivy bridge to come out but I need a new PC now and the 2600k recently went on sale which pushed me to purchase. I know I am purchasing and building at a time where new cards and processors are just around the corner so I figured it would be a good time to choose a board that would let me upgrade later without too much hassle. In my eyes, I could always upgrade video cards, RAM, and CPUs easily but not so much with the motherboard which is why I'm having a hard time deciding between the 2 boards.
> The Deluxe GEN3 does not have DVI/VGA/HDMI and would require me to pick up a new video card right away.


Ah, then there's no reason to get the Deluxe honestly, unless you need dual Gigabit LAN or a PS/2 port, and are willing to go without the onboard video (which defeats the primary purpose of Z68.

There's also very little difference between the GEN3 and Pro GEN3, except for a 1394a bracket and a couple extra SATA 6GB/s on the Pro.

Shad0wfax is incorrect about the phases, they all use 16 phase VRM


----------



## FourDoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> If the main criterion for your motherboard choice is overclocking then the most important feature you can look at is the reliability of the VRM circuitry. Voltage (and current) regulation will make a significant difference in how high you can take a clock and remain stable. "Cheap" motherboards typically have poor VRM, perform just fine at stock speeds, but will be unstable at even moderate overclocks. The relatively high end boards or mid-range boards from reputable manufacturers will do well at mild to even high overclocks and the top of the line enthusiast or extreme boards are usually only worth the extra money if you get lucky on a CPU that can take full advantage of their performance.
> 
> Both the Deluxe and the Pro are good boards.
> 
> This thread, http://www.overclock.net/t/916189/official-intel-p67-z68-motherboard-comparison-list-oc-results , will give you a better idea of what the detailed differences are between the Deluxe and Pro.
> 
> A link to the spreadsheet is here: https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0AoXai57oo6AGdHJNSXNXVUNqbHZoTlZjblV2cVJUTlE&w=291&h=2175
> 
> The deluxe is the better of the two boards.
> 
> Both boards are single PCIe x16 or dual SLI PCIe x8. The pro has one additional standard PCI slot (not PCIe or PCIe x4). The pro has HDMI/VGA/DVI out and the deluxe does not. The deluxe has 2 extra SATA 6.0 Gb ports for a total of 4 (the 2 extra are from the Marvell controller) and also has 2 LAN ports, whereas the pro has only 2 SATA 6.0 Gbs ports and 1 LAN port.
> 
> The Deluxe has 2 USB 3.0 and 8 USB 2.0 and the Pro has 3 USB 3.0 and 6 USB 2.0
> 
> _*The deluxe has 16 phase VRM and the Pro has 12 Phase VRM*_ and that's where the deluxe is truly superior to the pro.


Thank you... (off to read the other thread) I'm not looking for an extreme overclock as this PC will be on 24/7 and be primarily used for editing but the 16phase VRM you had noted helps push me towards that Deluxe model (even though it will require me borrowing or buying a temporary video card in the meantime).


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FourDoor*
> 
> Thank you... (off to read the other thread) I'm not looking for an extreme overclock as this PC will be on 24/7 and be primarily used for editing but the 16phase VRM you had noted helps push me towards that Deluxe model (even though it will require me borrowing or buying a temporary video card in the meantime).


Again, all 3 use the same 16 phase VRM, 12 for the CPU, and 4 for the iGPU...


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Shad0wfax is incorrect about the phases, they all use 16 phase VRM


Then the spreadsheet that's posted in the thread I linked is incorrect. I'm sorry for relaying incorrect information, but I did so based on prior faulty information on this site!










He wasn't wrong, and thus neither was I.



Deluxe: DIGI+ VRM 16+2

Pro: DIGI+ VRM 12+2

The Deluxe, and the WS Revolution (that I have) have 16+2 VRM phases rather than 12+2.

The Asus Extreme has even more.

I'll also point out that the extra LAN controller, the Intel controller they're including with the WS Revo and the Deluxe, is a very high quality LAN controller that is compatible with just about every hardware specification for virtual machines under the sun. It's not a cheap controller and that contributes more to the price than folks might realize. It's irrelevant for most people, but if you're concerned about Linux/UNIX/BSD and VM compatibility, then that may be a definite selling point for you on the deluxe (or ws revo)


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Then the spreadsheet that's posted in the thread I linked is incorrect. I'm sorry for relaying incorrect information, but I did so based on prior faulty information on this site!


No offense meant, not trying to bust your chops







I totally agree w/ your explanation of memory usage, and in general the higher end boards have better power delivery, it's just not the case for these late model ASUS Z68 boards.


----------



## FourDoor

@shad0wfax Regarding the RAM:

I will be editing RAW image files from my DSLR. I'm not quite sure how Lightroom and Photoshop handles it when I import images from a shoot but I have done all day shoots and filled up 16GB SD cards thus far that I want to be able to load, sort, and edit through without much issue. I will also be delving into 1080P video editing in the near future with Premiere which I thought might be able to take advantage of 16GB of RAM more than anything else I run. I'm sure it's not as intensive as modeling/rendering with some of the other pro apps but I always thought more RAM was better for these types of situations.

Your explanation about 2dimms and 8GB being faster makes sense. However, with what I have planned above, do you believe I will be hitting the limit if I only went with 8GB? Is there a significant enough difference in speed that I will actually see 8gb vs 16gb in daily use (outside of benchmarking)?

Thanks in advance...









EDIT: Man you guys move fast! LOL

Can someone explain the additional benefits of a secondary LAN port on the DELUXE? I may delve into some VMWare in the future (as a quick hobby/test) but primarily for now, this new rig will be connected to a gigabit router that is also connected to my HP Microserver which will be housing my media and running backups on WHS2011.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Then the spreadsheet that's posted in the thread I linked is incorrect. I'm sorry for relaying incorrect information, but I did so based on prior faulty information on this site!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense meant, not trying to bust your chops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I totally agree w/ your explanation of memory usage, and in general the higher end boards have better power delivery, it's just not the case for these late model ASUS Z68 boards.
Click to expand...

Hehehe, except you were wrong afterall. The deluxe claims to have 16+2 VRM where the Pro has 12+2 VRM. See my ninja-edit above with photo from Asus' website. (Not that I'm busting your chops either, I just hate making mistakes, even inadvertant ones.)


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Hehehe, except you were wrong afterall. The deluxe claims to have 16+2 VRM where the Pro has 12+2 VRM. See my ninja-edit above with photo from Asus' website. (Not that I'm busting your chops either, I just hate making mistakes, even inadvertant ones.)


Wrong again, you're looking at the wrong boards







We are discussing the GEN3 Z68 boards.

All 3 also have the Intel LAN, stop while you're ahead









http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68_DELUXEGEN3/#specifications
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68V_PROGEN3/#specifications
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68VGEN3/#specifications


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FourDoor*
> 
> @shad0wfax Regarding the RAM:
> 
> I will be editing RAW image files from my DSLR. I'm not quite sure how Lightroom and Photoshop handles it when I import images from a shoot but I have done all day shoots and filled up 16GB SD cards thus far that I want to be able to load, sort, and edit through without much issue. I will also be delving into 1080P video editing in the near future with Premiere which I thought might be able to take advantage of 16GB of RAM more than anything else I run. I'm sure it's not as intensive as modeling/rendering with some of the other pro apps but I always thought more RAM was better for these types of situations.
> 
> Your explanation about 2dimms and 8GB being faster makes sense. However, with what I have planned above, do you believe I will be hitting the limit if I only went with 8GB? Is there a significant enough difference in speed that I will actually see 8gb vs 16gb in daily use (outside of benchmarking)?
> 
> Thanks in advance...


Even editing RAWs in your DSLR, Photoshop is not going to have any issue with 8 GB of RAM unless you are editing images that are over 6 GB each in file size. (Maybe you work for the USGS and you're editing raw satellite imagery, for example).

Photoshop will use the following:


CS4, CS5, 32 bitWindows 32 bit1.7 GBCS4, CS5, 32 bitWindows 64 bit3.2 GBCS4, CS5, 64 bit*Windows 64 bitAs much RAM as you can fit in your computerCS4, 32 bitMac OS3 GBCS5, 32 bitMac OS2.1 GBCS5, 64 bitMac OSAs much RAM as you can fit in your computer

* 64-bit Photoshop is not officially supported on 64-bit Windows XP, but it should run.

By default, Photoshop will use 70% of available RAM, so if you have Windows 7 64 bit, no other applications running other than typical power user/gamer apps in the background, you're going to have ~ 1 GB used by the system and 7 GB free if you're on a 8 GB setup. Photoshop will then use 70% of your remaining 7 GB of RAM, which works out to around 6.4 GB of RAM. You can assign Photoshop to use more or less RAM if you wish to.

Now, if you're doing an edit on a 3 GB image file (which is incredibly large and I doubt that your DSLR is using satellite lenses or spy-plane lenses in the 120+++ MegaPixel range) then you may very well need that 6 GB of RAM. If you're editing four image files that are 3 GB RAW files each and you're trying to merge them into a single panorama or something, then you may need as much as 32 GB of RAM (or much more) to do it smoothly. When Photoshop runs out of memory with the 70% of available system memory it will use your hard drive (or maybe your USB 2.0 readyboost drive if you're using one) as a Virtual Memory area and that will make your HDDs thrash and chug and the program will run slowly.

However, the largest files that I'm familiar with in DSLR cameras are in the 14 to 16 MB range in RAW format. Photoshop isn't even going to sneeze at having a few dozen of those open for editing at once.

Then again, if you have 16 GB worth of 8 to 14 MB individual RAW files from a photoshoot and you're wanting to perform a batch conversion on all of them at once, you might be able to make a case for 16 GB of memory but I suspect that the 8 GB system, with the proper limitations on how many files to process simultaneously, will outperform the 16 GB system which may process more files simultaneously but perform the processing significantly slower on each file as you're going to be CPU limited in this scenario and not RAM limited.

So I suppose you need to find out what your maximum memory use in Photoshop is (Working Set) under a worst case scenario and then select the system RAM accordingly. I suspect that you're not dealing with large enough files to choke your system at 8 GB of RAM nor are you editing that many files at once. However, you may be batch-converting that many files at once and that's a situation where you'll need to monitor your system resources carefully and determine what's best for you.

I'm not convinced that in your situation the 16 GB will make any difference at all. Again, you're simply not dealing with large enough file sizes to matter, I don't think.


----------



## FourDoor

Thanks. My current RAW files are only around 18mb each right now. A typical shoot yields less than a 100 pics for me that need to be batched white balanced together during import. So it will be less than 2GB that will be processed at the same time. More than likely, it will be batched processed in 2 or 3 different groups so it looks like I'll be more than OK with PS and 8GB of RAM. The out of the norm shoots that will fill up 16GB cards too will be batched processed in sections so it's not like all 16GB will be loaded in memory all at once.

And in regards to the 16 vs 20 phases, the comparison chart on Asus website does note 16 for both the Z68 DELUXE and PRO boards.
ASUS Digital Power Design :
- Industry leading Digital 16 Phase Power Design
(12 -phase for CPU, 4 -phase for iGPU)
- ASUS DIGI+ VRM Utility

So I guess then the main difference between the DELUXE and PRO Z68 board for my situation is the extra LAN port and the onboard video. I guess what will help me decide finally then is if I could find a friend to loan me a decent card for the next month or 2 or find a good enough deal on a card that I can re-use on another system when the GTX 680 gets released. If not, then the Z68 PRO/GEN3 will be what i'm picking up this week.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 1st of all I recommend dumping the AI Suite II software it's buggy at best beyond that go to the UEFI bios under the Monitor tab and disable CPU Q-Fan Ctrl and Chassis Q-Fan Ctrl, this will leave both at a static 100% and the error message will go away. If you need to attenuate the speeds use a dedicated fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you even read what I said?
> My CPU Fan IS Connected to dedicated fan controller...
> Even when I turn those Q-fan stuff off, it wont go away, and I already had them off.
> And I know that AI Suite II is sucky&buggy, dont even have it installed.
> Any better info?
Click to expand...

Now Now don't get testy Yes I read your post but there could be another fan plugged into the CPU fan header besides your actual CPU fan. As stated by many other AiSuite II give false errors and readings I have no crystal ball that tells me you know that. I feel your pain but it's not my fault I'm just trying to help. If disabling CPU Q-Fan didn't get rid of the error message I'd say you need to update your bios. This has worked for others. GL.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Now Now don't get testy Yes I read your post but there could be another fan plugged into the CPU fan header besides your actual CPU fan. As stated by many other AiSuite II give false errors and readings I have no crystal ball that tells me you know that. I feel your pain but it's not my fault I'm just trying to help. If disabling CPU Q-Fan didn't get rid of the error message I'd say you need to update your bios. This has worked for others. GL.


Well, there is no other fan plugged in. But I'll try updating BIOS because I just saw that there is newer version out







Thanks

EDIT: BIOS update didn't help


----------



## RainMotorsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FourDoor*
> 
> Thanks. My current RAW files are only around 18mb each right now. A typical shoot yields less than a 100 pics for me that need to be batched white balanced together during import. So it will be less than 2GB that will be processed at the same time. More than likely, it will be batched processed in 2 or 3 different groups so it looks like I'll be more than OK with PS and 8GB of RAM. The out of the norm shoots that will fill up 16GB cards too will be batched processed in sections so it's not like all 16GB will be loaded in memory all at once.


Well remember the images are decompressed into memory so an 18mb picture is MUCH larger than 18 MB raw's are losslessy compressed. For 12 Mp probably expecting 36 to 72 mb an image in memory depending on if your working in 8 bit editing mode or 16.

I got my 16GB Corsair 1600 because it was 100 bucks and ive seen 8 in use when using Adobe Media Encoder but cant say I bother checking for anything else since i at this point never have to worry.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> DONE! 12 hours of custom Blend using 89-90% of my 8 gig kit. hung out at 6.96-7.11Gb used. So, here is the proof.
> First pic has prime still running after 12 hours, You can see RAM usage and CPU usage, along with the clock speed and the current voltage in CPU-z. OHW also sow's the CPU load, and the CPU core temps. You can also see the CPU wattage, and the Vcore my CPU peaked at while taking the test.
> 
> The next pic I changed CPUZ to the main board for proof of mobo Prime is still running.
> 
> Here is a pic just a second or two after I haled the test. 12 hours and 1 min with no issue's or errors.
> 
> Can I please please please call it stable now lolol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also wanna join the club, this board rocks socks! Thank you guys for the tips on stress testing my new i5 2500k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was a fun night.


Too bad you have not stumbled across this thread yet.

http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/0_100

You could have joined 2 clubs today.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RainMotorsports*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FourDoor*
> 
> Thanks. My current RAW files are only around 18mb each right now. A typical shoot yields less than a 100 pics for me that need to be batched white balanced together during import. So it will be less than 2GB that will be processed at the same time. More than likely, it will be batched processed in 2 or 3 different groups so it looks like I'll be more than OK with PS and 8GB of RAM. The out of the norm shoots that will fill up 16GB cards too will be batched processed in sections so it's not like all 16GB will be loaded in memory all at once.
> 
> 
> 
> Well remember the images are decompressed into memory so an 18mb picture is MUCH larger than 18 MB raw's are losslessy compressed. For 12 Mp probably expecting 36 to 72 mb an image in memory depending on if your working in 8 bit editing mode or 16.
> 
> I got my 16GB Corsair 1600 because it was 100 bucks and ive seen 8 in use when using Adobe Media Encoder but cant say I bother checking for anything else since i at this point never have to worry.
Click to expand...

FourDoor: You're going to be fine with 8 GB then and have no real need for 16 GB, thus, you should get the highest performance 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) package that your motherboard lists on the vendor hardware qualified list (with whichever BIOS version they state as being preferred) and stick with that. Memory timings aren't quite as important as memory frequency, so don't stress OCing your memory or goofing too much with your timings. 8 GB of 1833 or fast 1600 will out-perform any 16 GB solution that's anywhere near the same price range.

RainMotorSports: Yeah, even in a 18 MB RAW format opened in Photoshop, he's going to have to do a great deal of multiple file crunching to use up the full 6.X GB that Photoshop will reserve for system use.

Media Encoder is a different story. If FourDoor had said that he was doing heavy video encoding work then I'd be suggesting that he take a serious look at his memory use and that 16 GB may be called for in some cases of video editing and encoding. However, many of the Adobe products will gobble up as much memory as you allow them to; if you were to install 128 GB of RAM in a 64 bit OS then Photoshop will happily reserve 70% of that for image processing. (LOL)

In general:

It has been my experience that > 8 GB of RAM is useful if you're using Maya, 3DSMax, CAD/CAM software, some types of high-demand video encoding, SolidWorks, running a database server, or editing GB+ (or even TB+) satellite images. Obviously, it can be important in an enterprise environment for any number of purposes.

For the majority of gamers and enthusiasts, those who chose 16 GB over 8 GB did so because they got a good deal on the 16 GB package for just a few bucks more (good marketing), because the number looked bigger and seemed more impressive to post in their system signature (good marketing), or because their friends or other folks on the internet thought that it was necessary (thanks to good marketing) and talked them into it. Some gamers did so because they fall into the category where they frequently use 7.2 to 8.0+ GB of RAM and thus a 8 GB solution was not practical and in a dual-channel environment the next logical jump is 16 GB, which may be overkill for them, but it's the smallest that meets their needs. Those folks in that category should probably have chosen a triple-channel motherboard and gone with 12 GB of RAM, unless they're actually using 10.8 GB+ of memory, in which case fully populating dual-channel at 16 GB is probably better than fully populating triple-channel at 24 GB. This is because, if you have a triple-channel board, that's an entirely different story, as you're going to want to have 3 DIMMs installed and you're going to end up with 3 GB (3x 1 GB) , 6 GB (3x 2 GB), or 12 GB (3x 4 GB) installed for the best throughput.

In my case, 6 GB would be perfect for the type of gaming and general application work that I do on my PC, as I would almost never need to dip into a page file and my maximum memory use is right around 5.6 GB. However, as I'm dual-channel, 4 GB meant that I'd be thrashing on my HDD fairly often and 8 GB meant that I'd never need to dip into my pagefile. Thus, 8 GB is my sweet spot for performance on a more standard dual-channel board.


----------



## RainMotorsports

Yeah I also built my system as a 5 year system so in 5 years 16GB is going to be phone ram







(Probably more like 6 but anyways)


----------



## madchemist83

in five years u'll have that much built in in ur sunglasses that will have smartphone built in into them


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KilgoreTrout XL*
> 
> So, by using my "fix" of putting the video card (GTX 560 Ti) in the black slot, x2 speed? I haven't noticed any reduction in visual quality/framerates afterwards. I'll check CPU-Z and GPU-Z when I get home to see what they say, though I'm hesitant to mess with it. It's been stable for a while now and I don't want to return to the world of repeated bluescreens.


When I had my card in the black (x4) slot, I didn't notice a difference either. But now it's in the blue slot and GPU-Z & CPU-Z & Adia Extreme tells me it now at x16. I still haven't actually seen a visual difference, but there has to be. Guess my old eyes and brain can't keep up with what's going on visually, but the programs tell me different...lol...I don't blame you for not wanting to return to the blue screen world. I'm wondering if this is just inherent in the card you have. I didn't read it all, but when I skimmed some of the articles on it, seemed as though it's got problems that can't be resolved (unless you use it for target practice with a shotgun) and buy a new and different card for your machine. And I know that can be difficult too as money doesn't grow when you plant it. But I'd leave it alone for now and in the future (I'd wait a month or two) when all these next generation cards come out, the ones that are like $400-500 now will drop to a hundred and will be the best buy out there. That's what I'm waiting for myself and it'll be worth the wait.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevman17*
> 
> I have a question guys and gals. I have this optical drive. I was wondering if I could use it as an "external drive" by plugging it into my power eSATA port. Is this possible? If so, what cable would I need?
> The reason I would like to do this is because all of my 5.25" bays are currently taken up by a fan and a fan controller. So, I would like to be able to use my burner without running cables from inside my case.


Yes, you could, but I don't think the e/SATA port will power the drive, you'd have to run power to it separately (which really isn't that big a deal). In fact you can take any of these wall plug-in power supplies that put out 12v to power it with. (This is if you don't want to use the power off your PSU, which you could also run a cable from to power the drive.) And lastly you could buy an external on sale and use it. I bought a Samsung USB burner for something like 25 bucks awhile ago. It was on sale. Nice too, one USB cable takes care of data and power. I was even thinking of getting the Blu-Ray burner version as they're cheap now too, but an internal is still cheaper so I'll probably go that route. Hope that helped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> in five years u'll have that much built in in ur sunglasses that will have smartphone built in into them


...That's funny and so true, but I'll be the kill-joy and say hopefully this will come true if we're not all gone off the planet by then....YIKES!









BTW...Everyone...There's a NEW version of Core Temp out (and a 64 bit version as well). From them or Majorgeeks you can get the download.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> FourDoor: You're going to be fine with 8 GB then and have no real need for 16 GB, thus, you should get the highest performance 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) package that your motherboard lists on the vendor hardware qualified list (with whichever BIOS version they state as being preferred) and stick with that. Memory timings aren't quite as important as memory frequency, so don't stress OCing your memory or goofing too much with your timings. 8 GB of 1833 or fast 1600 will out-perform any 16 GB solution that's anywhere near the same price range.
> 
> RainMotorSports: Yeah, even in a 18 MB RAW format opened in Photoshop, he's going to have to do a great deal of multiple file crunching to use up the full 6.X GB that Photoshop will reserve for system use.
> 
> Media Encoder is a different story. If FourDoor had said that he was doing heavy video encoding work then I'd be suggesting that he take a serious look at his memory use and that 16 GB may be called for in some cases of video editing and encoding. However, many of the Adobe products will gobble up as much memory as you allow them to; if you were to install 128 GB of RAM in a 64 bit OS then Photoshop will happily reserve 70% of that for image processing. (LOL)
> 
> In general:
> 
> It has been my experience that > 8 GB of RAM is useful if you're using Maya, 3DSMax, CAD/CAM software, some types of high-demand video encoding, SolidWorks, running a database server, or editing GB+ (or even TB+) satellite images. Obviously, it can be important in an enterprise environment for any number of purposes.
> 
> For the majority of gamers and enthusiasts, those who chose 16 GB over 8 GB did so because they got a good deal on the 16 GB package for just a few bucks more (good marketing), because the number looked bigger and seemed more impressive to post in their system signature (good marketing), or because their friends or other folks on the internet thought that it was necessary (thanks to good marketing) and talked them into it. Some gamers did so because they fall into the category where they frequently use 7.2 to 8.0+ GB of RAM and thus a 8 GB solution was not practical and in a dual-channel environment the next logical jump is 16 GB, which may be overkill for them, but it's the smallest that meets their needs. Those folks in that category should probably have chosen a triple-channel motherboard and gone with 12 GB of RAM, unless they're actually using 10.8 GB+ of memory, in which case fully populating dual-channel at 16 GB is probably better than fully populating triple-channel at 24 GB. This is because, if you have a triple-channel board, that's an entirely different story, as you're going to _want_ to have 3 DIMMs installed and you're going to end up with 3 GB (3x 1 GB) , 6 GB (3x 2 GB), or 12 GB (3x 4 GB) installed for the best throughput.
> 
> In my case, 6 GB would be _perfect_ for the type of gaming and general application work that I do on my PC, as I would almost never need to dip into a page file and my maximum memory use is right around 5.6 GB. However, as I'm dual-channel, 4 GB meant that I'd be thrashing on my HDD fairly often and 8 GB meant that I'd never need to dip into my pagefile. Thus, 8 GB is my sweet spot for performance on a more standard dual-channel board.


Great info. I wish I had known this a few months back when I built my SB and bought 4x4GB of 1600 DDR3 ram. Oh well.


----------



## gooface

Could someone post their bios settings that they used to achieve 4.5ghz please? (ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 &2500k)


----------



## madchemist83

How bout Deluxe gen 3 instead? Should be pretty similar


----------



## wilkinsb01

new result with my new asus toy


----------



## gooface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> How bout Deluxe gen 3 instead? Should be pretty similar


yeah that would work, I have an issue with my board right now though I cant get the thing to post with a videocard plugged into it

but when I use the onboard DVI out on the motherboard it works, but when I use the PCIE card (7970 or a x1650) the fans go all full blast and it beeps once and doesnt post and does nothing.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I'm hiding my own quote of myself inside of a spoiler to save space!
> 
> 
> 
> FourDoor: You're going to be fine with 8 GB then and have no real need for 16 GB, thus, you should get the highest performance 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) package that your motherboard lists on the vendor hardware qualified list (with whichever BIOS version they state as being preferred) and stick with that. Memory timings aren't quite as important as memory frequency, so don't stress OCing your memory or goofing too much with your timings. 8 GB of 1833 or fast 1600 will out-perform any 16 GB solution that's anywhere near the same price range.
> 
> RainMotorSports: Yeah, even in a 18 MB RAW format opened in Photoshop, he's going to have to do a great deal of multiple file crunching to use up the full 6.X GB that Photoshop will reserve for system use.
> 
> Media Encoder is a different story. If FourDoor had said that he was doing heavy video encoding work then I'd be suggesting that he take a serious look at his memory use and that 16 GB may be called for in some cases of video editing and encoding. However, many of the Adobe products will gobble up as much memory as you allow them to; if you were to install 128 GB of RAM in a 64 bit OS then Photoshop will happily reserve 70% of that for image processing. (LOL)
> 
> In general:
> 
> It has been my experience that > 8 GB of RAM is useful if you're using Maya, 3DSMax, CAD/CAM software, some types of high-demand video encoding, SolidWorks, running a database server, or editing GB+ (or even TB+) satellite images. Obviously, it can be important in an enterprise environment for any number of purposes.
> 
> For the majority of gamers and enthusiasts, those who chose 16 GB over 8 GB did so because they got a good deal on the 16 GB package for just a few bucks more (good marketing), because the number looked bigger and seemed more impressive to post in their system signature (good marketing), or because their friends or other folks on the internet thought that it was necessary (thanks to good marketing) and talked them into it. Some gamers did so because they fall into the category where they frequently use 7.2 to 8.0+ GB of RAM and thus a 8 GB solution was not practical and in a dual-channel environment the next logical jump is 16 GB, which may be overkill for them, but it's the smallest that meets their needs. Those folks in that category should probably have chosen a triple-channel motherboard and gone with 12 GB of RAM, unless they're actually using 10.8 GB+ of memory, in which case fully populating dual-channel at 16 GB is probably better than fully populating triple-channel at 24 GB. This is because, if you have a triple-channel board, that's an entirely different story, as you're going to _want_ to have 3 DIMMs installed and you're going to end up with 3 GB (3x 1 GB) , 6 GB (3x 2 GB), or 12 GB (3x 4 GB) installed for the best throughput.
> 
> In my case, 6 GB would be _perfect_ for the type of gaming and general application work that I do on my PC, as I would almost never need to dip into a page file and my maximum memory use is right around 5.6 GB. However, as I'm dual-channel, 4 GB meant that I'd be thrashing on my HDD fairly often and 8 GB meant that I'd never need to dip into my pagefile. Thus, 8 GB is my sweet spot for performance on a more standard dual-channel board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great info. I wish I had known this a few months back when I built my SB and bought 4x4GB of 1600 DDR3 ram. Oh well.
Click to expand...

There's an easy solution to that: remove a DIMM from Slot 1 and Slot 3 (or Slot 2 and Slot 4, depending on what your motherboard indicates is the preferred pair) and see if your system is any faster at things like PCMark or folding or Prime95 with 90% of memory used in a memory intensive test.

You can then sell the extra two DIMMs, cannibalize them for another rig, or re-install them into your main system depending on what results you get.


----------



## icor1031

What is the difference between GEN 3 and the others?

Thanks.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> 
> Better? Testing BCLK. Got it to 105 in that CPU-Z. Going to try 106. Didnt like 107. And chip does at least a 50x so thats something.


the 2500k chip will go well over the 5.0 on 100.0 bclk if you got a good chip.it's recommended not to change the bclk pass 100.0 for reasons and am sure you will find them out soon or later


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icor1031*
> 
> What is the difference between GEN 3 and the others?
> 
> Thanks.


The B3 revision chipset resolves a problem in the Intel 6 series chipset that caused some SATA 3.0 GB/s ports to degrade over time leading to poor i/o performance or outright failures. This degradation and/or failure damaged some SSDs in a few isolated cases as well. The problem was in the Cougar Point chip and they had an immediate stop-shipment on all of the boards containing the chip.

Rev B3 was the solution to the recall notice and most owners of the older boards got free B3 upgrades under warranty.

While everything I said is true about Revision B3 vs Revision 2 and prior, when it applies to the P68 and H68 boards, this has *nothing to do with your question, as your question refers to GENERATION 3 boards featuring the latest Ivy Bridge* *support and PCIe 3.0 Support.*

I'm sorry for completely screwing this up and diverting you off onto a tangent that was meaningless. I've corrected it in the following posts, but felt that it was important to correct here as well, by striking through the statements that don't truly have anything to do with your question (even though they're true about older boards).

The strikethrough text does not apply to GEN 3 and again, I apologize for screwing up. (That's what I get for posting at the wee hours of the morning.)


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> 
> Better? Testing BCLK. Got it to 105 in that CPU-Z. Going to try 106. Didnt like 107. And chip does at least a 50x so thats something.
> 
> 
> 
> the 2500k chip will go well over the 5.0 on 100.0 bclk if you got a good chip.it's recommended not to change the bclk pass 100.0 for reasons and am sure you will find them out soon or later
Click to expand...

Says who? I rock a raised BCLK....have since March of last year. My SSD doesn't like it over about 104 though....on my mech drives (before I got a SSD), I was good up to 106.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Says who? I rock a raised BCLK....have since March of last year. My SSD doesn't like it over about 104 though....on my mech drives (before I got a SSD), I was good up to 106.


Generally 105 or lower BCLK is going to work decently well. But you're better off at 52 x 100 (or 51 x 100) than you would be at 49 x 105 in most cases. Memory is affected by the BCLK and as you discovered, so are SATA 3 gb and 6 gb devices (especially the latter).

I can't think of a situation where a system would be stable at 49x105 = 5145 and unstable at 52x100 = 5200 as if you're that close to the ragged edge of stability, you're better of stepping down a notch to 51x100 = 5100 anyhow.

With the current architecture, I just don't see the point to a BCLK change at all, especially in your case with such a nice running CPU.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Says who? I rock a raised BCLK....have since March of last year. My SSD doesn't like it over about 104 though....on my mech drives (before I got a SSD), I was good up to 106.
> 
> 
> 
> Generally 105 or lower BCLK is going to work decently well. But you're better off at 50 x 100 than you would be at 48 x 104.5 in most cases. Memory is affected by the BCLK and as you discovered, so are SATA 3 gb and 6 gb devices (especially the latter).
> 
> I can't think of a situation where a system would be stable at 49x105 = 5145 and unstable at 52x100 = 5200 as if you're that close to the ragged edge of stability, you're better of stepping down a notch to 51x100 = 5100 anyhow.
> 
> With the current architecture, I just don't see the point to a BCLK change at all, especially in your case with such a nice running CPU.
Click to expand...

RAM tweaking.







I'm at DDR3-2200 with 103.1 BCLK, and 4.95GHz on my CPU. Looks like my sig rig magically changed back to my old 100 BCLK runs...weird.

The point of doing it is to get the absolute MOST out of your hardware that you can.


----------



## icor1031

Does this mean if I buy a non-gen 3 right now, that it will already be updated and safe?

Thanks.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131729
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> The B3 revision chipset resolves a problem in the Intel 6 series chipset that caused some SATA 3.0 GB/s ports to degrade over time leading to poor i/o performance or outright failures. This degradation and/or failure damaged some SSDs in a few isolated cases as well. The problem was in the Cougar Point chip and they had an immediate stop-shipment on all of the boards containing the chip.
> 
> Rev B3 was the solution to the recall notice and most owners of the older boards got free B3 upgrades under warranty.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icor1031*
> 
> Does this mean if I buy a non-gen 3 right now, that it will already be updated and safe?


*No.* You will need to purchase a Revision B3 board or purchase a factory retro-fitted Rev 2 board that has been certified as Rev B3 upgraded from the manufacturer. (There are a few out there that are like this.) If there is any doubt at all about what you're buying, just buy a Rev B3.

This will teach me to post at the wee hours of the morning without reading carefully.

*GEN 3* *is fine*, and isn't at all affected by the recall on the P68/H68 Revision 2 CougarPoint stuff and has *nothing* to do with Rev B3.

I screwed up and read your post as "not revision 3" vs "not generation 3" and those are two very different things. I've addressed this in later posts but felt that it was very important to strike through my erroneous message here and correct it here as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> RAM tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at DDR3-2200 with 103.1 BCLK, and 4.95GHz on my CPU. Looks like my sig rig magically changed back to my old 100 BCLK runs...weird.
> 
> The point of doing it is to get the absolute MOST out of your hardware that you can.


Ah, you caught me as I was editing! Heheh! I understand the concept of getting the most out of your system.

What sort of gains have you seen from the faster RAM? I've not really seen much difference (with what I'm doing) when I toyed around with clocking my 1600 up to 1833 on my system.

Can you accomplish the same RAM speeds at 50x100 with other settings in the RAM, or is the extra 3.1% on the BCLK the only way to do it for you?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> How bout Deluxe gen 3 instead? Should be pretty similar


Surely B3 and Gen3 are different things. Isn't B3 a stepping above the P8P67 ones with the faulty sata?

Doesn't Gen3 mean P8Z68 PCIe 3.0 ready?


----------



## icor1031

Holy moly.
The V version I posted above doesn't even support SATA 3 RAID.
And the pro / gen 3 is $200.

Mate, know of any other boards that are any good?
ASROCK seems to have issues similar to my current ASROCK board.
Gigabyte reviews showed problems with SATA RAID or SATA 3, boot loop issues.









EDIT:

Funny, the Rev. 3 PRO just went on sale (MIR, actually.)
I've seen "a lot" of bad reviews about asus, primarily their customer support.

Do you think I'll be fine?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> *No.* You will need to purchase a Revision B3 board or purchase a factory retro-fitted Rev 2 board that has been certified as Rev B3 upgraded from the manufacturer. (There are a few out there that are like this.) If there is any doubt at all about what you're buying, just buy a Rev B3.


----------



## madchemist83

Hm strange seems like igpu interfering with ur gpu. Try disabling it in bios


----------



## blinkyuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> The B3 revision chipset resolves a problem in the Intel 6 series chipset that caused some SATA 3.0 GB/s ports to degrade over time leading to poor i/o performance or outright failures. This degradation and/or failure damaged some SSDs in a few isolated cases as well. The problem was in the Cougar Point chip and they had an immediate stop-shipment on all of the boards containing the chip.
> 
> Rev B3 was the solution to the recall notice and most owners of the older boards got free B3 upgrades under warranty.


*No, No, No*









GEN3 supports PCI3.0 with an Ivy Bridge Processor when they come out.

If the difference in cost isn't much I would plump for GEN3 as it provides more flexibility in future and may aid the resale value of your board.

The Rev B3 issue is something separate and didn't affect the Z68 boards as Intel had resolved the issue before Z68 was launched. I would think it would be unlikely that anywhere reputable would still have any non-B3 boards.


----------



## Harzach

Hi all -

New to the site and to system building in general. Just "completed" (sure...) my first real build and I'm very happy with it. I do a lot of audio editing by trade, as well as a fair amount of flight simming. Looking forward to unlocking the potential of this mobo!

Harzach


----------



## gooface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Hm strange seems like igpu interfering with ur gpu. Try disabling it in bios


I just have PCIE\PCI enabled, thats where it should be right?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface*
> 
> I just have PCIE\PCI enabled, thats where it should be right?


I just disabled mine. You don't really need it. If you have a good graphics card just use it by it self. That's just my two cents though.,

Also yes, that is the correct value you should have selected.


----------



## shad0wfax

EDIT: I have corrected my posts by striking through the misleading/erroneous text and I also sent icor1031 a PM to make sure that he is aware of my error.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> How bout Deluxe gen 3 instead? Should be pretty similar
> 
> 
> 
> Surely B3 and Gen3 are different things. Isn't B3 a stepping above the P8P67 ones with the faulty sata?
> 
> Doesn't Gen3 mean P8Z68 PCIe 3.0 ready?
Click to expand...

Gen 3 is fine, and has none of the Rev 2 issues from the year+ older P68/H68 boards. I made a mistake.

I read what he wrote as "not rev 3" instead of "not gen 3" which is a serious mistake and led him down a path of confusion. I've fixed my posts.

Thank you and blinkyuk for catching my error so quickly. +rep for catching it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icor1031*
> 
> Holy moly.
> The V version I posted above doesn't even support SATA 3 RAID.
> And the pro / gen 3 is $200.
> 
> Mate, know of any other boards that are any good?
> ASROCK seems to have issues similar to my current ASROCK board.
> Gigabyte reviews showed problems with SATA RAID or SATA 3, boot loop issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Funny, the Rev. 3 PRO just went on sale (MIR, actually.)
> I've seen "a lot" of bad reviews about asus, primarily their customer support.
> 
> Do you think I'll be fine?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> *No.* You will need to purchase a Revision B3 board or purchase a factory retro-fitted Rev 2 board that has been certified as Rev B3 upgraded from the manufacturer. (There are a few out there that are like this.) If there is any doubt at all about what you're buying, just buy a Rev B3.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I got confused on Gen 3 vs Rev 3.

Any Gen 3 board is going to be fine, as blinkyuk corrects me on in the below quote.

Sorry about that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blinkyuk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> The B3 revision chipset resolves a problem in the Intel 6 series chipset that caused some SATA 3.0 GB/s ports to degrade over time leading to poor i/o performance or outright failures. This degradation and/or failure damaged some SSDs in a few isolated cases as well. The problem was in the Cougar Point chip and they had an immediate stop-shipment on all of the boards containing the chip.
> 
> Rev B3 was the solution to the recall notice and most owners of the older boards got free B3 upgrades under warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> *No, No, No*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GEN3 supports PCI3.0 with an Ivy Bridge Processor when they come out.
> 
> If the difference in cost isn't much I would plump for GEN3 as it provides more flexibility in future and may aid the resale value of your board.
> 
> The Rev B3 issue is something separate and didn't affect the Z68 boards as Intel had resolved the issue before Z68 was launched. I would think it would be unlikely that anywhere reputable would still have any non-B3 boards.
Click to expand...

Alright, sorry, I was just having flashbacks of Revision 3 and getting confused when he asked about Gen 3. And you're correct, the Rev B3 thing had nothing to do with the Z boards, it was the P68 and H68 boards that it affected.

So I eat my words.

I have, however, seen older revision 2 boards that have been repaired and re-chipped to be B3 compliant being sold in a scattering of places that don't do high sales volume. I've never seen a revision 2 board that hasn't been repaired for sale since the recall.

Sorry about that. I goofed.

Thank you for catching this; I should have caught it, but I'm glad that you did. +rep for catching it


----------



## fredfred2

I've been using my P8Z68V-PRO since October and it just died... What to do? The outlet I bought it from is no longer in business, and ASUS said that I should take it back. I can't.

The wierd thing is that I was running it completely stock out of the box, using the basic VGA port. a network cable, a couple of GB of RAM with a small 40GB SATA HDD and a basic DVD drive. The CPU fitted was the i7-2600k which is still ok. NO OVERCLOCKING! PSU is also still perfect. I have no idea why it stopped working.

I was writing an email and it froze then the screen went black. Since then no PC. I'm writing this on a nasty little EEPC thing. Urghh!

I miss my Z68.... It was the best, fastest responding PC I've ever had.

Any ideas anyone what I should do to get out of this predicament?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredfred2*
> 
> I've been using my P8Z68V-PRO since October and it just died... What to do? The outlet I bought it from is no longer in business, and ASUS said that I should take it back. I can't.
> 
> The wierd thing is that I was running it completely stock out of the box, using the basic VGA port. a network cable, a couple of GB of RAM with a small 40GB SATA HDD and a basic DVD drive. The CPU fitted was the i7-2600k which is still ok. NO OVERCLOCKING! PSU is also still perfect. I have no idea why it stopped working.
> 
> I was writing an email and it froze then the screen went black. Since then no PC. I'm writing this on a nasty little EEPC thing. Urghh!
> 
> I miss my Z68.... It was the best, fastest responding PC I've ever had.
> 
> Any ideas anyone what I should do to get out of this predicament?


Call Asus and RMA it under Asus' warranty service. Insist on a RMA number and don't even bring up the retailer merchant being out of business; that has no bearing on Asus warranty service. You get no POST beep at all? You say the PSU is perfect, so I'm assuming that you tested the PSU on another PC?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wilkinsb01*
> 
> new result with my new asus toy


I see someone likes Portal II....I've played it like 3 times now and I'm portaled out....lol...Good game, makes you think. Another one you may like is Q.U.B.E. (Quick Understanding of Block Extrusion)...Very similar, but very different at the same time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icor1031*
> 
> What is the difference between GEN 3 and the others?
> Thanks.


Gen3 supports PCI3.0 with an Ivy Bridge Processor. What that basically means is when the next generation of video cards (Generation 3) comes out you'll be able to run this hardware without updating anything. (Don't hold your breath waiting though, just my opinion.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredfred2*
> 
> I've been using my P8Z68V-PRO since October and it just died... What to do? The outlet I bought it from is no longer in business, and ASUS said that I should take it back. I can't.
> The wierd thing is that I was running it completely stock out of the box, using the basic VGA port. a network cable, a couple of GB of RAM with a small 40GB SATA HDD and a basic DVD drive. The CPU fitted was the i7-2600k which is still ok. NO OVERCLOCKING! PSU is also still perfect. I have no idea why it stopped working.
> I was writing an email and it froze then the screen went black. Since then no PC. I'm writing this on a nasty little EEPC thing. Urghh!
> I miss my Z68.... It was the best, fastest responding PC I've ever had.
> Any ideas anyone what I should do to get out of this predicament?


Before it died did you update the BIO's? Is there anywhere on the board you can see poor soldering like cold joints, (not shiny) or maybe cracks anywhere. Usually a freeze and then a black screen would indicate a problem or error with the OS. Will it boot, not boot, but come on? Meaning will it appear to turn on, but then doesn't boot?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface*
> 
> I just have PCIE\PCI enabled, thats where it should be right?


Try disabling the igpu monitor as well. Has to be that or a bad card. Also, make sure the main video is set to pcie/pci. I forget where it was. Want to say in advanced. If that does not work, then you may have either a bad card or pcie slot. Try other slots to see if they work.


----------



## madchemist83

No it's something like intel virtualization. I'll look it up tonite on my board


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredfred2*
> 
> I've been using my P8Z68V-PRO since October and it just died... What to do? The outlet I bought it from is no longer in business, and ASUS said that I should take it back. I can't.
> The wierd thing is that I was running it completely stock out of the box, using the basic VGA port. a network cable, a couple of GB of RAM with a small 40GB SATA HDD and a basic DVD drive. The CPU fitted was the i7-2600k which is still ok. NO OVERCLOCKING! PSU is also still perfect. I have no idea why it stopped working.
> I was writing an email and it froze then the screen went black. Since then no PC. I'm writing this on a nasty little EEPC thing. Urghh!
> I miss my Z68.... It was the best, fastest responding PC I've ever had.
> Any ideas anyone what I should do to get out of this predicament?


My DIMM B slots (both) have stopped working. The RAM works just fine on either of the DIMM A slots and I've tried them one by one. Anyhow, when I contacted ASUS about RMA that's what they told me too, take it to the retailer which is going to be a PITA with no mobo for god knows how long for their testing and then requesting RMA and mailing etc etc.

Anyhow, as suggested above I might just email them back saying nope.. want to deal direct with ASUS as it's their process and board which at least should remove few days.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> My DIMM B slots (both) have stopped working. The RAM works just fine on either of the DIMM A slots and I've tried them one by one. Anyhow, when I contacted ASUS about RMA that's what they told me too, take it to the retailer which is going to be a PITA with no mobo for god knows how long for their testing and then requesting RMA and mailing etc etc.
> Anyhow, as suggested above I might just email them back saying nope.. want to deal direct with ASUS as it's their process and board which at least should remove few days.


I'd stick to your guns and deal with ASUS directly. Either way you'll be without a board for awhile (and that's got to suck) but I think you're right in it'll chop a few days off the whole ordeal. ASUS tends to be fairly fast with turn a rounds on fixing boards.


----------



## fredfred2

@ shad0wfax and error-id10t

Thanks guys. I've done what you suggested: I've filled in their online 'returns' form so now I wait. This is what I wrote if it helps anyone else in the future:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

This PC is one of four identical systems all networked together. The other three systems still work perfectly. This system was used for database management, in an office environment. The operating environment is clean, dry and dust free. There is low humidity and the climate is controlled. No fluids were near the system.

The system was operating without a single failure for approx 1500 hours. Failure was at approx 2PM GMT. 26 January 2012. Outside weather conditions were fine, sunny and dry.

There were no high power RF sources or any other significant EMI nearby.

The system was completely standard, with NO OVERCLOCKING.

The power supply was working perfectly.

There were NO power surges or other events at the time of failure.

The CPU, Memory, HDD, Monitor, USB devices, Hub and Power supply that were connected to this motherboard are still working perfectly; They were tested in a different P8Z68V-PRO motherboard.

Devices from a working motherboard were inserted into the failed unit to isolate if the motherboard or the inserted components were at fault. Inserting working components into the motherboard did not change the status of the system. It didn't work with new components.

Original installation was correctly performed using anti static mats on the bench, anti static wrist bands and a clean work environment. I have been assembling PCs for over 25 Years. I used to work for AMD as an engineer.

Symptoms:
I was reading email and the screen froze. Then a second later the screen went black and the PC powered down. It would not restart even after complete power cycling.

The heatsink on the Z68 chip became >>very<< hot once it was powered up again after failure. So hot that the ASUS label 'melted' and fell off. I powered off and detached the removable spring loaded heatsink to check what had happened to the chip, but there was no visible problem. I reattached the heatsink using fresh thermal compound (as recommended on ASUS web site). Powered up, but there was no change.

The board will not power up and run through POST. Only the power and reset buttons illuminate on the PCB. The CPU fan will not power up. The motherboard is completely dead. It is my guess that the Intel Z68 chip has gone 'latch-up'. It is unclear why this has happened as the Intel Z68 device is a modern MOS based semiconductor.

Page one of one. EOF. Report by fredfred2 M Eng (hons). Dip Eng. MSIA. CIEE. MOD3


----------



## blinkyuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> EDIT: I have corrected my posts by striking through the misleading/erroneous text and I also sent icor1031 a PM to make sure that he is aware of my error.
> 
> Gen 3 is fine, and has none of the Rev 2 issues from the year+ older P68/H68 boards. I made a mistake.
> 
> I read what he wrote as "not rev 3" instead of "not gen 3" which is a serious mistake and led him down a path of confusion. I've fixed my posts.
> 
> Thank you and blinkyuk for catching my error so quickly. +rep for catching it
> 
> Sorry, I got confused on Gen 3 vs Rev 3.
> 
> Any Gen 3 board is going to be fine, as blinkyuk corrects me on in the below quote.
> 
> Sorry about that.
> 
> Alright, sorry, I was just having flashbacks of Revision 3 and getting confused when he asked about Gen 3. And you're correct, the Rev B3 thing had _nothing_ to do with the Z boards, it was the P68 and H68 boards that it affected.
> 
> So I eat my words.
> 
> I have, however, seen older revision 2 boards that have been repaired and re-chipped to be B3 compliant being sold in a scattering of places that don't do high sales volume. I've never seen a revision 2 board that hasn't been repaired for sale since the recall.
> 
> Sorry about that. I goofed.
> 
> Thank you for catching this; I should have caught it, but I'm glad that you did. +rep for catching it


Not a problem, we all goof from time to time. I've +repped you for this reply and going back and correcting your posts.

Although I am new here I have used a lot of different forums over the years...


----------



## Rubble

Anyone know where i can find a blue colored PCB SLI bridge for my p8z68 v-pro? I lost the flexible one that came in the box (i just moved) and i would like to replace it with a PCB blue so it would match my motherboard. and i didnt like the way the flex one moved around so i wanted to make it PCB but i am unsure of the spacing.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rubble*
> 
> Anyone know where i can find a blue colored PCB SLI bridge for my p8z68 v-pro? I lost the flexible one that came in the box (i just moved) and i would like to replace it with a PCB blue so it would match my motherboard. and i didnt like the way the flex one moved around so i wanted to make it PCB but i am unsure of the spacing.


Doesn't gigabyte make the blue ones?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blinkyuk*
> 
> Not a problem, we all goof from time to time. I've +repped you for this reply and going back and correcting your posts.
> 
> Although I am new here I have used a lot of different forums over the years...


Oh hey, thanks for that. Honestly, I couldn't in good conscience not make a point of correcting my errors. The person I responded to also saw my PM and responded there, so he isn't confused by my errors anymore.

All is well in the P67 / Z68 world again!

On a side note, I'm curious about the performance gains in the PCIe 3.0 vs PCIe 2.0 technology. I know that x16 vs x8 didn't make much of a difference at all in terms of SLI performance, but I'm wondering how the gen 3 stuff is going to turn out.


----------



## Jonnykiv

Hey all, I jumped ship from AMD, leaving my Phenom II x2 555 BEhind ( see what I did there!? ), and have gone straight to an Asus P8P67-M Pro along with currently running a Pentium G840 cpu (until next month when I have more money). I built my dad a desktop using my spare parts and left overs.

SO, yaay im officially a P8P67 owner, lol XD


----------



## Jonnykiv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> On a side note, I'm curious about the performance gains in the PCIe 3.0 vs PCIe 2.0 technology. I know that x16 vs x8 didn't make much of a difference at all in terms of SLI performance, but I'm wondering how the _gen_ 3 stuff is going to turn out.


Legend has it that it doubles the bandwidth of currently existing PCIe 2.0, or so I heard.


----------



## smbell

I just finished getting my P8Z68-Gen3 up and running tonight with a 2600K and 16GB of vengeance memory. I transitioned my HDs and SSD over from a dual xeon system. It's crazy how much faster this is than my dual 5410s.

I wasn't planning to overclock it right away, but I was poking around in the BIOS and hit the OC tuner by mistake and it auto overclocked itself to 4.5ghz. I ran some stress tests and everything seems GTG! Oh well, can't put it back to stock now







.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smbell*
> 
> I just finished getting my P8Z68-Gen3 up and running tonight with a 2600K and 16GB of vengeance memory. I transitioned my HDs and SSD over from a dual xeon system. It's crazy how much faster this is than my dual 5410s.
> I wasn't planning to overclock it right away, but I was poking around in the BIOS and hit the OC tuner by mistake and it auto overclocked itself to 4.5ghz. I ran some stress tests and everything seems GTG! Oh well, can't put it back to stock now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Are you sure about your autotuned overclock settings? Hows your BLCK? Be sure that it isnt too high, it might break something.
I know that overclocked feeling, dont want to go back


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smbell*
> 
> I just finished getting my P8Z68-Gen3 up and running tonight with a 2600K and 16GB of vengeance memory. I transitioned my HDs and SSD over from a dual xeon system. It's crazy how much faster this is than my dual 5410s.
> I wasn't planning to overclock it right away, but I was poking around in the BIOS and hit the OC tuner by mistake and it auto overclocked itself to 4.5ghz. I ran some stress tests and everything seems GTG! Oh well, can't put it back to stock now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Don't ya just hate it when it overclocks itself and then you can't make yourself turn it back?...lol....


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> I know that overclocked feeling, dont want to go back


And I do as well! I'm not a gamer but I do a little bit of video rendering/encoding so I decided to OC my P8Z68/V-Pro/GEN 3 I5-2500K system when I got it a few months back and I have not been able to turn back to the stock settings.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonnykiv*
> 
> Legend has it that it doubles the bandwidth of currently existing PCIe 2.0, or so I heard.


It's all right here:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5458/the-radeon-hd-7970-reprise-pcie-bandwidth-overclocking-and-msaa


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonnykiv*
> 
> Legend has it that it doubles the bandwidth of currently existing PCIe 2.0, or so I heard.


It will not double the bandwidth if you are using a pcie 2.0/2.1. It will only work a an ivy bridge CPU and a pcie 3.0 card. I have a feeling that you were just saying it will be faster than what we are running now, but want to make sure....


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jonnykiv*
> 
> Legend has it that it doubles the bandwidth of currently existing PCIe 2.0, or so I heard.
> 
> 
> 
> It will not double the bandwidth if you are using a pcie 2.0/2.1. It will only work a an ivy bridge CPU and a pcie 3.0 card. I have a feeling that you were just saying it will be faster than what we are running now, but want to make sure....
Click to expand...

It doesn't look like it's going to matter at all for me. I'm on a boar*d* that can do tri-sli PCIe 2 x8 or quad Crossfire PCIe 2 x8 and the difference between that and a PCIe 3 (or a dual x16) setup is negligible.

Hardware innovations on motherboards for the sake of hardware innovations and no real gain to be seen from any existing graphics cards... *yawn*

EDIT: I'm on a board, not a boar. It would be rather odd if I were riding a pig that could do tri-SLI, now wouldn't it?


----------



## madchemist83

True story.
Even current GPUs can not fully saturate PCI 2.0 bus .. or for that matter SSDs can not saturate SATA 3
Also I don't see many people dropping SB for IB and new GPu just for extra 5% of gain in real life performance.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> True story.
> Even current GPUs can not fully saturate PCI 2.0 bus .. or for that matter SSDs can not saturate SATA 3
> Also I don't see many people dropping SB for IB and new GPu just for extra 5% of gain in real life performance.


2500K and GTX 580 is just great for me. In some ways, it would have been nice to get one of the 3 GB 580s instead of the 1.5 GB 580s, as games are headed in that direction.

My plan for upgrades is to buy a second 580 or possibly do some horse-trading and get a 3 GB version of the 580 and add a second one of those 3 GB versions later. I'll get far more performance doing that than I ever would going to Ivy Bridge or playing with PCIe 3.0 hardware.

In my case, dropping SB to go for IB would be worth it, if I wanted to do it, as I'd be going from i5-2500K to i7-3770K which would be a very significant leap in performance. However, if I already had an i7-2600K or i7-2700K it would not be worth going from SB to IB at all. (My motherboard supports IB, so it would be an easy switch.)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Yea. I planned on seeing how well my i5 would handle Xfire/SLI and eyefinity/surround. as long as my FPS is 50-60 I don't care much about the rest. I'm pretty sure for most gamer's that IB is going to be a waste of time for now. the cost to performance will be out of whack. I'll put money on the i5 staying the Gamer's Choice CPU for a while.


----------



## swarm87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yea. I planned on seeing how well my i5 would handle Xfire/SLI and eyefinity/surround. as long as my FPS is 50-60 I don't care much about the rest. I'm pretty sure for most gamer's that IB is going to be a waste of time for now. the cost to performance will be out of whack. I'll put money on the i5 staying the Gamer's Choice CPU for a while.


unless hyperthreading comes back into style, and from what ive seen over on the amd 7000 thread it seems to be


----------



## Jonnykiv

I have a quick nooby question about my motherboard. Which slots would I be best putting the memory into? A1 and B1 (both black) or A1 and A2?


----------



## selluminis

Probably going to pick up another core 448 classified if I can find 1... Instead of a new cpu and gpu.


----------



## swarm87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Probably going to pick up another core 448 classified if I can find 1... Instead of a new cpu and gpu.


newegg still has classifieds with arkham city for ~$310 shipped


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonnykiv*
> 
> I have a quick nooby question about my motherboard. Which slots would I be best putting the memory into? A1 and B1 (both black) or A1 and A2?


It's not in your M-Pro manual, but like the regular P8P67, ASUS recommends A2 & B2 (blue slots) for better "compatibility".


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonnykiv*
> 
> I have a quick nooby question about my motherboard. Which slots would I be best putting the memory into? A1 and B1 (both black) or A1 and A2?


You should have the memory in A2 & B2. This will ensure the memory is running at dual channel. If you put it in the other slots, it won't be at dual channel.

Edit...Oppss, didn't see the above post. Same answer....


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> You should have the memory in A2 & B2. This will ensure the memory is running at dual channel. If you put it in the other slots, it won't be at dual channel.
> Edit...Oppss, didn't see the above post. Same answer....


That's incorrect, it's dual channel either way A1 & B1 *OR* A2 & B2.

ASUS recommends A2 & B2 for compatibility


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> You should have the memory in A2 & B2. This will ensure the memory is running at dual channel. If you put it in the other slots, it won't be at dual channel.
> Edit...Oppss, didn't see the above post. Same answer....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's incorrect, it's dual channel either way A1 & B1 *OR* A2 & B2.
> 
> ASUS recommends A2 & B2 for compatibility
Click to expand...

That is true.

ASUS also recommends A2/B2 because with some large CPU coolers the A1 DIMM may be blocked.


----------



## d3v0

Okay I have read all of the guides posted up here, especially interesting to me are the C3/C6, but thats another matter. I have enabled the following:

P8Z68 V- Pro with 2x4gb DDR3 1600mmhz at 1.25v (low voltage sniper)

*blck:* 100
*multi:* 48
*vcore*: 1.4v-425v
(when using offset, I use +.05 for the same load vcore)
*LLC:* Ultra high (testing with "high" for offset voltage idle crash fix)
*PLL overvoltage* on
*PLL* 1.6-1.8v (tried them all)
*VCCIO:* 1.1v

EMU disabled.
C3/C6(Tried disabled with offset, enabled with manual vcore)
CIE, speedstep, spread spectrum, on.
CPU to 140%
Phase and duty: extreme
VRM: manual - 350

Getting crashes 3 hours into Prime 95 blend(standard). Also getting crashes in 3dmark vantage between GPU and CPU tests. Temps are good, vcore matches in cpu-z what I have in bios.

I have wiggled the PLL from 1.6-1.8v to no avail. I have reduced ram to 1333mhz to no avail. I have tried VCCIO set to 1.1v. I have tried disabling C3/C6 (and using offset instead of manual vcore) to no avail. *What am I missing?*

Also got an idle crash. So I went in and reduced LLC to high and bumped the offset by .02. testing idle now.


----------



## madchemist83

Have u tried increasing ram voltage. Sometimes it helps stability.


----------



## d3v0

how high can I go with a set of 1.25v ram? up to 1.6?


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Okay I have read all of the guides posted up here, especially interesting to me are the C3/C6, but thats another matter. I have enabled the following:
> P8Z68 V- Pro with 2x4gb DDR3 1600mmhz at 1.25v (low voltage sniper)
> *blck:* 100
> *multi:* 48
> *vcore*: 1.4v-425v
> (when using offset, I use +.05 for the same load vcore)
> *LLC:* Ultra high (testing with "high" for offset voltage idle crash fix)
> *PLL overvoltage* on
> *PLL* 1.6-1.8v (tried them all)
> *VCCIO:* 1.1v
> EMU disabled.
> C3/C6(Tried disabled with offset, enabled with manual vcore)
> CIE, speedstep, spread spectrum, on.
> CPU to 140%
> Phase and duty: extreme
> VRM: manual - 350
> Getting crashes 3 hours into Prime 95 blend(standard). No matter what. Temps are good, vcore matches in cpu-z what I have in bios.
> I have wiggled the PLL from 1.6-1.8v to no avail. I have reduced ram to 1333mhz to no avail. I have tried VCCIO set to 1.1v. I have tried disabling C3/C6 (and using offset instead of manual vcore) to no avail. *What am I missing?*
> Also got an idle crash. So I went in and reduced LLC to high and bumped the offset by .02. testing idle now.


Try starting with a run with fewer manual settings, without messing with PLL, VCCIO, C3/C6, or CPU Current Capability, like Juan_Jose recommends here:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110

Try at a 45 multi and work your way up, this eliminate variables before messing with the finer tweaks.


----------



## d3v0

I should have mentioned it starting out that I started at 4.3ghz and worked my way up from there, following the guide and starting to edit settings manually as I failed to get stability on at 1.3v past 4.5ghz. Thats how I ended up where I am. This chip has been stable at 4.8 before in another rig. Hoping to get there again!


----------



## madchemist83

1.6 probably not.
No just add a little bit (smallest possible)
I found that my 2500k is more stable with a bit raised voltage .. I have 1.5v sticks


----------



## d3v0

okay. I have tried at 1.5 and it didnt help. Ill back down to 1.35v and see whats up.

otherwise, I will have to start all over again. Crashing at after rock solid stable for 3 hours (browsing, watching HD movies, etc while running prime 95 blend for three hours, i go to switch a tab and bang, 0x124. so random. I have decided to enabled C3/C6 (I have a 520mb/s read SSD) and just use manual vcore. Running 1.43v now. Temps are fine in a well-ventilated case. I just want the random bsods to go away! (and join the stable sandy club)


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> so random. I have decided to enabled C3/C6 (I have a 520mb/s read SSD) and just use manual vcore. Running 1.43v now. Temps are fine in a well-ventilated case. I just want the random bsods to go away! (and join the stable sandy club)


You should bench ATTO with & without C3/C6, there's mixed reports of the impact on SSD performance.

You think those BSODs are random, I had one every 3-14 days due to a defective PCIe x16_1 slot, and of course that was the last thing I had on the list to troubleshoot as a possible issue.


----------



## d3v0

Well, I went to that hardforum post on the last page. Redid all my settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



ALL bios values to *Auto* except:
*Multi:* 48x
*Cpu Vcore:* 1.425v (manual)
*LLC:* ultra high
*Memory freq:* DDR3 1600 (timings stock)
*dram voltage* 1.35v
*VRM frequency:* 350
*Phase/Duty Control:* extreme
*PLL overvoltage:* enabled



Again, rock solid stable for hours of prime blend, then BSOD 0x124 crashes if idle. I am researching further into the fixes mentioned in the OP.

Edit: the fixes there appear only to be relevant when using offset voltage. I am using manual


----------



## truehighroller1

I think your ram is failing on you now and that's the cause of the BSOD's. Just a guess. I had to switch mine out the other day and I had it for a week.


----------



## d3v0

Hmm. Interesting idea. Ram is from another member on the forum and was running up until last week at its stock rated speeds timing and voltage. But who knows. I can run a memtest I suppose - maybe that would flesh out any issues?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Hmm. Interesting idea. Ram is from another member on the forum and was running up until last week at its stock rated speeds timing and voltage. But who knows. I can run a memtest I suppose - maybe that would flesh out any issues?


Yeah I kept getting errors running intelburntest trying to overclock a little more. I couldn't for the life of me get anything stable. Switched out the memory and issue solved.


----------



## d3v0

Well, currently I dropped it to 1333mhz so we will see if it makes a difference. (sitting at 3hrs/5mins stable P95 again - and counting.) also bumped vcore up to 1.435v . Temps are good, about 70c.

Last night I played DiRT 3 for about 3 hours with no issues. Obviously no stability test, but a real world kind of test too. It really does appear to be one of those random idle/bsod issues described when using offset voltage, but I'm using manual!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> That's incorrect, it's dual channel either way A1 & B1 *OR* A2 & B2.
> ASUS recommends A2 & B2 for compatibility


That's incorrect, Asus recommends that A2-B2 be used when using just 2 sticks of memory, 4 doesn't matter. It's in the manual. Page 1-16 of the P8Z68-V-LE manual sates, "Two DIMM's (dual channel operation) use A2_B2."
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> That is true.
> ASUS also recommends A2/B2 because with some large CPU coolers the A1 DIMM may be blocked.


Thank you. (A second reason.)


----------



## ccjet84

I am running a P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 w/ 2500k. Has been running great for a month or so, but recently it has begun to freeze on cold boot. I get the ASUS Bios screen, then nothing - it just hangs. Most times it will boot properly after powering down, however i've had to do it 2x lately. Is there a known issue/solution for this?

FYI, running a mild overclock -40x multiplier all other settings stock.


----------



## madchemist83

I have random startup static. It's seems like an issue with video. Static - blue screen, static - blue screen. Sometimes it loads to win sometimes it just gets stuck on static. Any thoughts?


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> That's incorrect, Asus recommends that A2-B2 be used when using just 2 sticks of memory, 4 doesn't matter. It's in the manual. Page 1-16 of the P8Z68-V-LE manual sates, "Two DIMM's (dual channel operation) use A2_B2."
> Thank you. (A second reason.)


You don't know what you're talking about, and Alex132 was agreeing with me. it's dual channel either way A1 & B1 *OR* A2 & B2

*edit* and beyond that we aren't even discussing your LE, Jonnykiv was asking about his board, the M-Pro.


----------



## d3v0

Crashed again after 5:15. I am going to take the advice of the above poster and put my ram in the correct slots, I believe I have them in A1_B1.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Crashed again after 5:15. I am going to take the advice of the above poster and put my ram in the correct slots, I believe I have them in A1_B1.


Yep, it's A2 & B2 recommended by ASUS for the Pro.

and since RCPilotJAE depends on the manual to understand dual channel, that's page 2-11:

"2 DIMMS: Supports two (2) modules inserted into either the blue or the black slots as one pair of Dual-channel memory configuration."


----------



## d3v0

I pulled it out to verify, yep its A2_B2 and I am testing again









Can I just say, that at 1.44v and 4.8ghz, my H50 is keeping this below 70c? How awesome is that

Edit: I am having random display driver crashes during prime 95 testing. Theres no way the sig rig is outdoing my seasonic 610W unit.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonnykiv*
> 
> I have a quick nooby question about my motherboard. Which slots would I be best putting the memory into? A1 and B1 (both black) or A1 and A2?


As many others have already posted correctly, I won't go into too much detail, but this does bear repeating, since it trips up so many new installers.

READ THE MANUAL!!!

Each manufacturer is different from others, with colors, labeling, and physical layout on the board.

Many manufacturers will have variations between their own model lines in color or even numbering schemes and physical layout.

READ THE MANUAL!!!

MY Asus P8P67 WS Revolution (rev. B3) uses blue and black colors and uses labeling of A1, B1, A2, B2 and recommends installing into slots B1 A2 and B2 as the preferred slots, which are BLUE black.

EDIT: Strike-through correction from B1 to A2 and black to blue. See how easy it is to screw up when going by memory and not reading the manual? I should have read the manual before I posted!

Manufacturers have been known to use 0, 1, 2, 3 /// 1, 2, 3, 4 /// 0,2,1,3 /// 1,3,2,4 /// a,b,c,d /// a1, a2, b1, b2 /// a1, b1, a2, b2 and so on, as layouts and labeling. The order, color, labels.... it's all subject to change and there's no substitute for reading the manual.

Always verify during your POST that your BIOS is reporting "dual-channel mode" (or "triple-channel mode") to make sure that you didn't goof!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> As many others have already posted correctly, I won't go into too much detail, but this does bear repeating, since it trips up so many new installers.
> 
> READ THE MANUAL!!!
> 
> Each manufacturer is different from others, with colors, labeling, and physical layout on the board.
> 
> Many manufacturers will have variations between their own model lines in color or even numbering schemes and physical layout.
> 
> READ THE MANUAL!!!
> 
> MY Asus P8P67 WS Revolution (rev. B3) uses blue and black colors and uses labeling of A1, B1, A2, B2 and recommends installing into slots B1 and B2 as the preferred slots, which are black.
> 
> Manufacturers have been known to use 0, 1, 2, 3 /// 1, 2, 3, 4 /// 0,2,1,3 /// 1,3,2,4 /// a,b,c,d /// a1, a2, b1, b2 /// a1, b1, a2, b2 and so on, as layouts and labeling. The order, color, labels.... it's all subject to change and there's no substitute for reading the manual.
> 
> Always verify during your POST that your BIOS is reporting "dual-channel mode" (or "triple-channel mode") to make sure that you didn't goof!


Wow! The manual for my P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 recommends A2 and B2 which are blue. So these P8 boards are not all the same.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> As many others have already posted correctly, I won't go into too much detail, but this does bear repeating, since it trips up so many new installers.
> 
> READ THE MANUAL!!!
> 
> Each manufacturer is different from others, with colors, labeling, and physical layout on the board.
> 
> Many manufacturers will have variations between their own model lines in color or even numbering schemes and physical layout.
> 
> READ THE MANUAL!!!
> 
> MY Asus P8P67 WS Revolution (rev. B3) uses blue and black colors and uses labeling of A1, B1, A2, B2 and recommends installing into slots B1 and B2 as the preferred slots, which are black.
> 
> Manufacturers have been known to use 0, 1, 2, 3 /// 1, 2, 3, 4 /// 0,2,1,3 /// 1,3,2,4 /// a,b,c,d /// a1, a2, b1, b2 /// a1, b1, a2, b2 and so on, as layouts and labeling. The order, color, labels.... it's all subject to change and there's no substitute for reading the manual.
> 
> Always verify during your POST that your BIOS is reporting "dual-channel mode" (or "triple-channel mode") to make sure that you didn't goof!
> 
> 
> 
> Wow! The manual for my P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 recommends A2 and B2 which are blue. So these P8 boards are not all the same.
Click to expand...

Crap, I had a typo. See how easy it is to mess up?

It's A2 and B2 for the WS Revo.... (which, after cracking my case to look are the BLUE slots, not black)

There's a lesson for me: Read my own manual AND look at my hardware before I even post, because memory won't serve me well!


----------



## Mieske666

Tjeez don't get crazy guys and galls... It's not that hard A and B are a couple destined for dual channel







Happy marriage







But yeah Asus recommends using the A2 an B2 slots on every board they did for the Z68 series. When using only two slots that is. There is the Fact that Sandy Brifge doesn't overclock so well with all banks filled. And that no chip is the same. But A1 and B1 filled is also dual channel.

Is there need for a sticky or a guid on this?


----------



## kimmetje

Has anyone had much luck getting the Asus AI Suite II to actually work? Can't seem to get my new build to like the software much. It installs, reboots, but then there is nothing to show for it. Tried the patch but no change either.


----------



## Mieske666

Don't use AI suite please...


----------



## Mieske666

Offcourse is you want go ahead but we generally advise to not use it. Read the guides at the first page and let them help you!


----------



## madchemist83

Whats wrong with asus suite? Works fine for me. I hate speedfan it's buggy as hell.
Anyways does anyone have any idea about statics on the screen before bios ?


----------



## dg2500k

I am new here, just bought refurbished Asus P8P67 Extreme for $88 shipped, pop my new shiny 2500K at first stock speed, then upward to 4.8ghz running solid and stable, this cpu can hit 5.0 but too much vcore and temp.

Mobo with BIOS 2103 no issues at all, I heard lots of ppl have issues cold boot etc...but not on 2103 anymore i guess.


----------



## d3v0

I hate you. Kidding of course, thats an awesome setup already.

been burning up my pc all weekend to get 4.8 stable. crashes every 3-5 hours

currently stable at 1.5v PLLv and running....lets see if it lasts overnight









edit: CRASH 0x124

Next: 1.525v PLLv - and testing


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Whats wrong with asus suite? Works fine for me. I hate speedfan it's buggy as hell.
> Anyways does anyone have any idea about statics on the screen before bios ?


IMO asus suite is bloatware. I use the bios for controlling the fanspeeds en realtemp for temp monitoring.

That static sometimes in startup i have that too. No idea why or how to solve it....


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> You don't know what you're talking about, and Alex132 was agreeing with me. it's dual channel either way A1 & B1 *OR* A2 & B2
> *edit* and beyond that we aren't even discussing your LE, Jonnykiv was asking about his board, the M-Pro.


I guess then all these others don't know what their talking about either. And since *you* quoted from a manual first, I just did the same. So you can have the board to yourself, I won't be back.


----------



## I Am The Stig

I use the p8z68-v/gen 3 mobo, can i still use the same ocing guide as the p8p67?


----------



## madchemist83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> IMO asus suite is bloatware. I use the bios for controlling the fanspeeds en realtemp for temp monitoring.
> That static sometimes in startup i have that too. No idea why or how to solve it....


Is ur gpu oced? I think its gpu. I'll try to clear cmos and revert to factory settings and see if that helps.


----------



## Mieske666

No my GPU is @stock Tried those things like cmos reset and even battery remove to no avail. It only happens ocassionaly. And i found that the SATA connections are a bit tricky. The BIOS is more likely to make mistakes is the connectors aren't pushed on tight.


----------



## psychrage

Just picked up a P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3 and i7 2600k last week. No overclocking yet. Waiting on my XSPC Raystorm to come in.

I'll admit, I was an AMD Fanboy, and I know this is beating a dead horse here, but they really dropped the ball with bulldozer.


----------



## Mieske666

I like AMD fine... But i want the best CPU for my money. In this place and time that is Intel. But i waited for buying my system too see what Bulldozer was going to be.It failed especially for audio processing. So after a Q6600 now a 2600K.


----------



## FourDoor

Can I just say how lame it is that the H100 backplate needs a freakin washer for it to seat properly on my Z68 Pro/Gen3? Without putting a washer in the back between the board and the backplate, the double sided mounting screws are loose and wobly on the board!

Are the Asus Z68 boards thinner than most other factory board or is this an H100 issue?


----------



## Mieske666

Not that i know off. Are you sure you didn't overlook something?


----------



## FourDoor

Not that I can see. This blog post in from the Phantom thread shows that he had the same issues with his Asus Rampage III board.

http://darkgreenguitarist-tech-blog.blogspot.com/2011/10/problems-installing-corsair-h100-in.html

I'm guessing that this is more of an H100 design issue than the board itself


----------



## Mieske666

Yeah you must be right.... Bit weird because Asus boards are the most used i think.


----------



## dg2500k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> I hate you. Kidding of course, thats an awesome setup already.
> been burning up my pc all weekend to get 4.8 stable. crashes every 3-5 hours
> currently stable at 1.5v PLLv and running....lets see if it lasts overnight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: CRASH 0x124
> Next: 1.525v PLLv - and testing


Did you check with this link at http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet ?

Seems to me 1.55 to 1.70 stable for PLLv

By the way located at Swissvale/Edgewood there









(I couldn't send you pm due limit reached daily allotment of 2 private messages per day)


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> I guess then all these others don't know what their talking about either. And since *you* quoted from a manual first, I just did the same. So you can have the board to yourself, I won't be back.


Using the same size sticks of ram in A1/B1 is dual channel, as is A2/B2. If you populate A1/B2, you will have single channel. Also, if you populate A1/A2 you will have single channel and so on. In either case you will have the aggregate memory, but not operating in dual channel mode. This for most modern mobos. So to operate in dual channel mode your ram needs to be in either A1/B1 or A2/B2. Asus recommends using A2/B2 for best results if only using 2 sticks of ram.

You can easily prove what is right by populating the board in various ways and see how it's reported at POST or in CPU-Z.

Here's an excellent tutorial in the world of motherboard channel architecture and it explains the concepts pretty well.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Everything-You-Need-to-Know-About-the-Dual-Triple-and-Quad-Channel-Memory-Architectures/133/1


----------



## sighnbox

Ok every one what would you go with Asus P8Z68 Gen 3 Pro or Delux version with i7 2600K or go Asus P9X79 Deluxe, Intel X79, S 2011 and i7 3930K Enthusiast Unlocked, S 2011, Sandybridge-E, Six Core, 3.2GHz the first load coming to £250 CPU and boards £130 pro and £180 delux or £450 odd for the 3930K and £268 for the board .....so around £430 verses £718 would it be worth it ??? I dont do gameing just video and photo editing.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> Using the same size sticks of ram in A1/B1 is dual channel, as is A2/B2. If you populate A1/B2, you will have single channel. Also, if you populate A1/A2 you will have single channel and so on. In either case you will have the aggregate memory, but not operating in dual channel mode. This for most modern mobos. So to operate in dual channel mode your ram needs to be in either A1/B1 or A2/B2. Asus recommends using A2/B2 for best results if only using 2 sticks of ram.
> You can easily prove what is right by populating the board in various ways and see how it's reported at POST or in CPU-Z.
> Here's an excellent tutorial in the world of motherboard channel architecture and it explains the concepts pretty well.
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Everything-You-Need-to-Know-About-the-Dual-Triple-and-Quad-Channel-Memory-Architectures/133/1


Thanks, I was actually thinking about linking that same article. I think RCPilotJAE got mixed up from the start about how dual channel works (along with a few other things like ISRT and the PCIe slots).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> The way ASUS describes the way their RAM slots are is that if you use A1 & B1 you will not get dual channel. Dual channel is only available in A2 & B2. Don't actually know if this is true or not as I've not tried it. I just stuck my RAM in the A2 & B2 slots and in ADIA64 (and others) it came up as dual channel . Before you change it, it would be interesting if you would run CPU-Z or ADIA64 and see if it says Dual or not. Now you've all got me interested if ASUS is correct or not.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dg2500k*
> 
> Did you check with this link at http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet ?
> Seems to me 1.55 to 1.70 stable for PLLv
> By the way located at Swissvale/Edgewood there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I couldn't send you pm due limit reached daily allotment of 2 private messages per day)


Awesome, should get a beer or something sometime.

And regarding that post, yeah thats exactly what prompted me to test with the low PLL voltages. Really hoping to have some luck in that 1.55-1.7v sweet spot. But I am doing due diligence and testing a large range of voltages.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> Using the same size sticks of ram in A1/B1 is dual channel, as is A2/B2. If you populate A1/B2, you will have single channel. Also, if you populate A1/A2 you will have single channel and so on. In either case you will have the aggregate memory, but not operating in dual channel mode. This for most modern mobos. So to operate in dual channel mode your ram needs to be in either A1/B1 or A2/B2. Asus recommends using A2/B2 for best results if only using 2 sticks of ram.
> You can easily prove what is right by populating the board in various ways and see how it's reported at POST or in CPU-Z.
> Here's an excellent tutorial in the world of motherboard channel architecture and it explains the concepts pretty well.
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Everything-You-Need-to-Know-About-the-Dual-Triple-and-Quad-Channel-Memory-Architectures/133/1


I recently added 8 GB (2 x 4GB) of RAM to my system into A1/B1. This new RAM is essentially the same RAM as I have in A2/B2 with the exception that the new RAM has large heat sinks and supposedly is better for overclocking. Is there any advantage to putting the new (better?) RAM into A2/B2 and moving the older RAM to A1/B1?

Here is what I have:

A1/B1: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104242
A2/B2: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104173


----------



## madchemist83

Terrible choice. Sell all of ur ram and get a proper one, just two sticks. U know what's wrong? Voltage is. For sb u want 1.5v ram. Both of ur kits run at 1.65v. Also 2 sticks will run faster then 4.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Terrible choice. Sell all of ur ram and get a proper one, just two sticks. U know what's wrong? Voltage is. For sb u want 1.5v ram. Both of ur kits run at 1.65v. Also 2 sticks will run faster then 4.


^lolwut?

I have the t1 sticks in his comment and they run just fine i have them undervolted at 1.6v at xmp rated speeds although i would just run with two sticks no need for 4.


----------



## madchemist83

It might damage cpu in a long run. 1.65v is top for sb.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> It might damage cpu in a long run. 1.65v is top for sb.


^









i know 1.65v is top for sb but damaging the cpu?


----------



## I Am The Stig

So I used TwoCable's template for 4.8ghz, but when I check CPU-Z, I still get this:



Is there something I'm missing here? I'm using the P8Z68/GEN 3 btw.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I Am The Stig*
> 
> So I used TwoCable's template for 4.8ghz, but when I check CPU-Z, I still get this:
> (snip)
> Is there something I'm missing here? I'm using the P8Z68/GEN 3 btw.


^SB's idle at 16x multiplier you will have to run prime 95 (or other intense cpu tasks) to see it on full load(what you set the turbo multiplier at).


----------



## madchemist83

Proof will be in year when ur pc craps out. But you won't care cause you'll just get another one. Now what is the point in 1.65v ram? You can't even increase voltage if you need to oc..


----------



## dg2500k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I Am The Stig*
> 
> So I used TwoCable's template for 4.8ghz, but when I check CPU-Z, I still get this:
> 
> Is there something I'm missing here? I'm using the P8Z68/GEN 3 btw.


Go Power Option in Control Panel

Select High Performance power plan will stay 4800 all the times.

Select Balanced to back down 1600 switch 4800 when run prime95, games etc...

Hope it help


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Terrible choice. Sell all of ur ram and get a proper one, just two sticks. U know what's wrong? Voltage is. For sb u want 1.5v ram. Both of ur kits run at 1.65v. Also 2 sticks will run faster then 4.


Thanks for the feedback. I have read many conflicting things about 1.5v vs 1.65v DRAM voltage for these setups...not sure who to believe any more. In any case, I reduced DRAM voltage to 1.5 in BIOS and all seems stable so far and I am running Prime95 at this very moment.

As for populating all the slots, I'm sure you're probably right that having only 2 sticks will be faster, but I'm willing to sacrifice a tiny bit of speed for not having to worry about running out of RAM while editing video as I do. And again, there are a lot of theories about whether or not you will run out of RAM with 8GB except in very unusual circumstances. It's a wacky hi-tech world out there with lots of varying opinions and theories to say the least.


----------



## madchemist83

Looks good. Yeah u might need all 16 if u do video editing.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Looks good. Yeah u might need all 16 if u do video editing.


I just noticed this in CPU-Z...it shows my RAM as PC3-10700. I was under the impression that it was PC3-12800. Is that due to the fact that I have 4 sticks? Or am I not understanding something? (quite possible!)


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dg2500k*
> 
> Did you check with this link at http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet ?
> Seems to me 1.55 to 1.70 stable for PLLv
> By the way located at Swissvale/Edgewood there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I couldn't send you pm due limit reached daily allotment of 2 private messages per day)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, should get a beer or something sometime.
> 
> And regarding that post, yeah thats exactly what prompted me to test with the low PLL voltages. Really hoping to have some luck in that 1.55-1.7v sweet spot. But I am doing due diligence and testing a large range of voltages.
Click to expand...

I too, recently discovered the wonders of reduced PLL. I'm operating this 4.9 GHz (stable so far) OC with a PLL = 1.550V. It wouldn't POST at 1.500V but it's operating wonderfully at 1.550V. I previously had it at 1.700V and my thermals were higher at 4.9 GHz than I'd have liked. The 1.700V PLL worked great at my 4.7 GHz OC though.

I'm happy that I'm still learning new things about my system, even as I read these threads. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Terrible choice. Sell all of ur ram and get a proper one, just two sticks. U know what's wrong? Voltage is. For sb u want 1.5v ram. Both of ur kits run at 1.65v. Also 2 sticks will run faster then 4.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I have read many conflicting things about 1.5v vs 1.65v DRAM voltage for these setups...not sure who to believe any more. In any case, I reduced DRAM voltage to 1.5 in BIOS and all seems stable so far and I am running Prime95 at this very moment.
> 
> As for populating all the slots, I'm sure you're probably right that having only 2 sticks will be faster, but I'm willing to sacrifice a tiny bit of speed for not having to worry about running out of RAM while editing video as I do. And again, there are a lot of theories about whether or not you will run out of RAM with 8GB except in very unusual circumstances. It's a wacky hi-tech world out there with lots of varying opinions and theories to say the least.
Click to expand...

The Sandy Bridge design maximum voltage is 1.650V for RAM. Most manufacturers are making 1.500V DIMMs to cooperate more nicely with SB and there are even a few ultra low 1.250V solutions available.

There's nothing wrong with using 1.650V DIMMs in a Sandy Bridge in some situations, but the 1.50V is a more common alternative now that works well in nearly all situations.

According to Intel, *V DIMM - VTT <= 0.500V* is the design specification.

VDIMM = Memory voltage

VTT = VCCIO = QPI = Voltage for the integrated memory controller and PCI-E controller.

*Intel's VTT Max value is 1.05 +/- 3%* which yields a 1.080V absolute maximum, although some people report going as high as 1.250V safely. (Others have gone higher but some have reported long-term problems.)

So with the Intel default values of 1.050V for VTT, and with the delta between V DIMM and VTT needing to be 0.500V or less, you get VDIMM - 1.05 <= 0.500V Therefore VDIMM <= 1.550V *This is where people come up with 1.50V for Sandy maximums.*

So it's a bit more of a confusing answer. 1.650V is fine for DIMM as long as your VTT is 1.150V or higher. But Intel normally limits VTT to 1.050V, which results in memory limited to 1.550V and manufacturers remaining at 1.500V for a factor of safety.

I hope that helps clear things up.


----------



## d3v0

Couldnt get anything to pass with 4.8ghz. Been notching up since 1.5v PLL and now at 1.675, I am passing 1792 ffts and 1342. Now its time to prime my submission for sandy stable and run her all day!


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Couldnt get anything to pass with 4.8ghz. Been notching up since 1.5v PLL and now at 1.675, I am passing 1792 ffts and 1342. Now its time to prime my submission for sandy stable and run her all day!


It has been my recent experience that so long as you get the PLL high enough to POST and boot into your OS, that further increases in PLL have no positive impact on stability, but instead only increase the heat generated and the power consumed.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> I too, recently discovered the wonders of reduced PLL. I'm operating this 4.9 GHz (stable so far) OC with a PLL = 1.550V. It wouldn't POST at 1.500V but it's operating wonderfully at 1.550V. I previously had it at 1.700V and my thermals were higher at 4.9 GHz than I'd have liked. The 1.700V PLL worked great at my 4.7 GHz OC though.
> 
> I'm happy that I'm still learning new things about my system, even as I read these threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Sandy Bridge design maximum voltage is 1.650V for RAM. Most manufacturers are making 1.500V DIMMs to cooperate more nicely with SB and there are even a few ultra low 1.250V solutions available.
> 
> There's nothing wrong with using 1.650V DIMMs in a Sandy Bridge in _some_ situations, but the 1.50V is a more common alternative now that works well in nearly all situations.
> 
> According to Intel, *V DIMM - VTT <= 0.500V* is the design specification.
> 
> VDIMM = Memory voltage
> VTT = VCCIO = QPI = Voltage for the integrated memory controller and PCI-E controller.
> 
> *Intel's VTT Max value is 1.05 +/- 3%* which yields a 1.080V absolute maximum, although some people report going as high as 1.250V safely. (Others have gone higher but some have reported long-term problems.)
> 
> So with the Intel default values of 1.050V for VTT, and with the delta between V DIMM and VTT needing to be 0.500V or less, you get VDIMM - 1.05 <= 0.500V Therefore VDIMM <= 1.550V *This is where people come up with 1.50V for Sandy maximums.*
> 
> So it's a bit more of a confusing answer. _1.650V is fine for DIMM as long as your VTT is 1.150V or higher._ But Intel normally limits VTT to 1.050V, which results in memory limited to 1.550V and manufacturers remaining at 1.500V for a factor of safety.
> 
> I hope that helps clear things up.


But, how much should My VTT (VCCIO) be when my ram is 1.25v, running 1.35v in bios?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> But, how much should My VTT (VCCIO) be when my ram is 1.25v, running 1.35v in bios?


The VDIMM - VTT only needs to be less than or equal to 0.500V.

There's nothing wrong with having VDIMM at 1.250V and VTT at the default 1.050V and having the "delta" be 0.200V instead of 0.500V. 0.500V is just the max delta.

I recommend that you have your VTT between 1.000V and 1.100V. Some people have gone as high as 1.250V for stability in some situations and other people have actually found that reducing it to 0.900V can help if their DIMMs are low power or slow frequency (high latency) units.

Generally, the higher the RAM frequency and the tighter the latency (often called CL or CAS) responds better with a slightly increased VTT, but that's not always the case.

VTT is only something you fine-tune in your OC to get your memory stable at your desired frequency after you've solved CPU stability issues. Typically, Vcore is where the bulk of your OC adjustments are made and many OCers have no need to adjust VTT from the stock 1.050V value.


----------



## KuuFA

@shad0wfax thanks for clearing that up!

@madchemist83 .....seriously you say a false statement, I ask for proof and you don't have proof so why even comment about something you have only heard but do not solidly know..... I based my memory purchase due to this review and price. (i managed to grab this memory kit for $40 usd brand new).

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-vengeance-crucial-ballistix-kingston-hyperX,2907.html
^I Know Tom's isn't well regarded on OCN but give it a read it's pretty nice.


----------



## madchemist83

You'll have to put in ram timings manually.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> You'll have to put in ram timings manually.


This is most likely true.

SPD will default to the most conservative settings in both cases if you mix and match DIMMs on a motherboard and sometimes SPD will get it right. However, SPD is not infallible and your system may still have stability issues with mixed DIMMs, so manual settings are more likely to be consistent.


----------



## madchemist83

It's not a false statement. It's what majority of people say. We learn on our mistakes. How do you think people came up with all those guides and possible solutions? If that ram works for u .. Great . It's just u can't tell how it's gonna affect cpu life in the long run cause cpu only been out for about a year.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> I too, recently discovered the wonders of reduced PLL. I'm operating this 4.9 GHz (stable so far) OC with a PLL = 1.550V. It wouldn't POST at 1.500V but it's operating wonderfully at 1.550V. I previously had it at 1.700V and my thermals were higher at 4.9 GHz than I'd have liked. The 1.700V PLL worked great at my 4.7 GHz OC though.
> 
> I'm happy that I'm still learning new things about my system, even as I read these threads.
> 
> The Sandy Bridge design maximum voltage is 1.650V for RAM. Most manufacturers are making 1.500V DIMMs to cooperate more nicely with SB and there are even a few ultra low 1.250V solutions available.
> 
> There's nothing wrong with using 1.650V DIMMs in a Sandy Bridge in some situations, but the 1.50V is a more common alternative now that works well in nearly all situations.
> 
> According to Intel, *V DIMM - VTT <= 0.500V* is the design specification.
> 
> VDIMM = Memory voltage
> 
> VTT = VCCIO = QPI = Voltage for the integrated memory controller and PCI-E controller.
> 
> *Intel's VTT Max value is 1.05 +/- 3%* which yields a 1.080V absolute maximum, although some people report going as high as 1.250V safely. (Others have gone higher but some have reported long-term problems.)
> 
> So with the Intel default values of 1.050V for VTT, and with the delta between V DIMM and VTT needing to be 0.500V or less, you get VDIMM - 1.05 <= 0.500V Therefore VDIMM <= 1.550V *This is where people come up with 1.50V for Sandy maximums.*
> 
> So it's a bit more of a confusing answer. 1.650V is fine for DIMM as long as your VTT is 1.150V or higher. But Intel normally limits VTT to 1.050V, which results in memory limited to 1.550V and manufacturers remaining at 1.500V for a factor of safety.
> 
> I hope that helps clear things up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> This is most likely true.
> 
> SPD will default to the most conservative settings in both cases if you mix and match DIMMs on a motherboard and sometimes SPD will get it right. However, SPD is not infallible and your system may still have stability issues with mixed DIMMs, so manual settings are more likely to be consistent.


Sorry but that VDIMM-VTT difference limit of 0.5V does not apply to SB. You can ask munaim about this one and he will say the same.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Sorry but that VDIMM-VTT difference limit of 0.5V does not apply to SB. You can ask munaim about this one and he will say the same.


----------



## d3v0

Passed 1344 and 1792 with 1.675 PLLv and 1.435 vcore, but failed a 12 hour prime standard blend. So frustrating!


----------



## Dholby5150

Add me to the list pls


----------



## bodean

Is there anything I need to do , to enable PCI Express 3.0?
Just got an ATI 7970 video card which uses PCI Express 3.0
I'm running a P8Z68-V Gen3 mb.


----------



## Mieske666

Uhh yeah you need to pop in an Ivy Bridge processor... Ohh wait there are not out yet


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks

I currently have an Asus p9z68v-le motherboard

I have my 590 on the 16x slot

I will be recieving a sound card soon

I will insert it in the 4x slot but i believe i have to disable the onboard sound via the bios after uninstalling the drivers from windows.

Where can i disable onboard audio on the UEFI?

When i plug my soundcard do i have to enable anything on the UEFI?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Sorry but that VDIMM-VTT difference limit of 0.5V does not apply to SB. You can ask munaim about this one and he will say the same.


Thanks for clarifying. Sorry for the confusion. (I hate it when I make mistakes!)

I knew that 1.650V was the limit for Sandy Bridge memory controllers, as I stated. I mistakenly thought that the VDIMM - VTT <= 0.50V applied to SB. The VDIMM-VTT delta applies to the older Lynnfield i5/i7 and Xeon 34XX series microprocessors. It was, and still is true for Lynnfields, but it's not true for the Sandy Bridge!

So I did more digging to find out why all of the newer DDR3 is 1.500V and not 1.650V anymore, even though 1.650V is the maximum for most SB motherboards. The answer that I found was in the JEDEC DDR3 SDRAM Standards. JEDEC are the folks who set the global standards for semiconductors and they set the DDR3 SDRAM standard to 1.500V, so most of what's sold now is 1.500V because of JEDEC not Sandy Bridge.


----------



## madchemist83

Interesting. But what about 1.25v sticks? Can u crank it up to 1.6v ? And have it run at 2100mhz?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madchemist83*
> 
> Interesting. But what about 1.25v sticks? Can u crank it up to 1.6v ? And have it run at 2100mhz?


From what I've seen of the 1.25V low voltage DIMMs, they're geared toward moderate performance and very high electrical and thermal efficiency. I doubt that there is much OC headroom in an ultra-low voltage DIMM. You'll find more OC headroom in the 1.50V DIMMs, most likely.

I suppose that there are some factory 1.65V DIMMs that are ultra-high speed, like 2133, and if your motherboard is compatible with them, you may even get better performance from those units in a stock condition than you would overclocking a 1600 speed.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Is there anything I need to do , to enable PCI Express 3.0?
> Just got an ATI 7970 video card which uses PCI Express 3.0
> I'm running a P8Z68-V Gen3 mb.


I think its already enabled to use PCI-E 3.0 than 2.0, but you can check your BIOS settings.


----------



## MooMoo

Woops, double post


----------



## Deltrus

Posting to request to join the club.







I have had a vanilla P8P67 B3 revision motherboard since mid-March 2011.







I did at one point have it OC'd to 4.5GHz however it has been at a calm 4.0GHz for a while now since I have not been gaming or folding very hardcore as of late.

Here's just a quick picture for reference.











http://imgur.com/Q2uFh


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> I think its already enabled to use PCI-E 3.0 than 2.0, but you can check your BIOS settings.


No it's ready to use PCI-E 3.0 but you need an Ivy Bridge processor to be able to use PCI-E 3.0.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Is there anything I need to do , to enable PCI Express 3.0?
> Just got an ATI 7970 video card which uses PCI Express 3.0
> I'm running a P8Z68-V Gen3 mb.


"At the high end the results are not surprising. In our informal testing ahead of the 7970 launch we didn't see any differences between PCIe 2 and PCIe 3 worth noting, and our formal testing backs this up. *Under gaming there is absolutely no appreciable difference in performance between PCIe 3 x16 (16GB/sec) and PCIe 2 (8GB/sec).* Nor was there any difference between PCIe 3 x8 (8GB/sec) and the other aforementioned bandwidth configurations.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5458/the-radeon-hd-7970-reprise-pcie-bandwidth-overclocking-and-msaa

and more here:

*"The results couldn't be any clearer: the HD 7970 doesn't benefit in any way from a PCI-E 3.0 link to the CPU."*

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/49646-amd-radeon-hd-7970-3gb-review-21.html


----------



## psychrage

Looking to join the club. I've got the P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3.

Does anyone know of a chipset waterblock for the deluxe board?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> "At the high end the results are not surprising. In our informal testing ahead of the 7970 launch we didn't see any differences between PCIe 2 and PCIe 3 worth noting, and our formal testing backs this up. *Under gaming there is absolutely no appreciable difference in performance between PCIe 3 x16 (16GB/sec) and PCIe 2 (8GB/sec).* Nor was there any difference between PCIe 3 x8 (8GB/sec) and the other aforementioned bandwidth configurations.
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/5458/the-radeon-hd-7970-reprise-pcie-bandwidth-overclocking-and-msaa
> and more here:
> *"The results couldn't be any clearer: the HD 7970 doesn't benefit in any way from a PCI-E 3.0 link to the CPU."*
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/49646-amd-radeon-hd-7970-3gb-review-21.html


It is not going to do anything until you get an ivy bridge CPU..... Why are people even bothering testing it?


----------



## madchemist83

Seriously.


----------



## d3v0

Uhhh what matters is whether it saturates the 8gb/s bus, no? is the ivy bridge REALLY going to unlock so much GPU speed that it goes from not being able to saturate the 8gb/s bandwidth to being able to? I dont think so. Maybe a 7990 dual chip.

Either way, of course the ivy is needed to unlock the actual PCI-e 3.0 function, but its not even necessary - yet.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> "At the high end the results are not surprising. In our informal testing ahead of the 7970 launch we didn't see any differences between PCIe 2 and PCIe 3 worth noting, and our formal testing backs this up. *Under gaming there is absolutely no appreciable difference in performance between PCIe 3 x16 (16GB/sec) and PCIe 2 (8GB/sec).* Nor was there any difference between PCIe 3 x8 (8GB/sec) and the other aforementioned bandwidth configurations.
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/5458/the-radeon-hd-7970-reprise-pcie-bandwidth-overclocking-and-msaa
> and more here:
> *"The results couldn't be any clearer: the HD 7970 doesn't benefit in any way from a PCI-E 3.0 link to the CPU."*
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/49646-amd-radeon-hd-7970-3gb-review-21.html
> 
> 
> 
> It is not going to do anything until you get an ivy bridge CPU..... Why are people even bothering testing it?
Click to expand...

And it's not going to make any statistically significant difference with an Ivy Bridge CPU either.


----------



## d3v0

Stable at 4.8ghz, cant wait to get my siggy updated


----------



## psychrage

I've searched and searched on this, can't seem to figure this out. My CPU runs at 3.4GHz full time instead of auto stepping down to 1.6GHz at idle. The only thing set manually in my BIOS is ram speed/timings.
Windows Power Settings currently set to Balanced. What do I need to do to get it step down at idle?

Also, once overclocked, is it advised to leave whichever setting on or off?

Coming from the AMD camp it was always advised to leave Cool N' Quiet off.

Thanks


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage*
> 
> I've searched and searched on this, can't seem to figure this out. My CPU runs at 3.4GHz full time instead of auto stepping down to 1.6GHz at idle. The only thing set manually in my BIOS is ram speed/timings.
> Windows Power Settings currently set to Balanced. What do I need to do to get it step down at idle?
> Also, once overclocked, is it advised to leave whichever setting on or off?
> Coming from the AMD camp it was always advised to leave Cool N' Quiet off.
> Thanks


make sure speed step is enabled....


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Stable at 4.8ghz, cant wait to get my siggy updated


Nice:thumb:


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Stable at 4.8ghz, cant wait to get my siggy updated


Nice


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> And it's not going to make any _statistically significant_ difference with an Ivy Bridge CPU either.


Lol, that is most likely going to be the case......


----------



## psychrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> make sure speed step is enabled....


Thanks selluminus. Speedstep was enabled. However, I did a default settings reset, and redid my ram speed / timings. Now it throttles down like it should.


----------



## alexman

Hey guys, have two questions!

1. Is it normal to see the red lights turn on during the boot sequence when loading up, say, Windows? For instance, the top red light turns on, then some other red light, then ends off with the one near the VGA. They don't flash or anything, but rather just a solid light then turns off.

2. In the BIOs, the red light near the SB heatsink turns on. Once out of the BIOs, it turns off.

I'm 99% sure that the stuff I'm seeing is normal. I'm just making sure that I didn't mess around a little too much in the BIOs!

Thanks!


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexman*
> 
> Hey guys, have two questions!
> 1. Is it normal to see the red lights turn on during the boot sequence when loading up, say, Windows? For instance, the top red light turns on, then some other red light, then ends off with the one near the VGA. They don't flash or anything, but rather just a solid light then turns off.
> 2. In the BIOs, the red light near the SB heatsink turns on. Once out of the BIOs, it turns off.
> I'm 99% sure that the stuff I'm seeing is normal. I'm just making sure that I didn't mess around a little too much in the BIOs!
> Thanks!


Im not pretty sure, but I think so because that's happens to mee too and everythings fine


----------



## psychrage

Mine does that as well. Its normal.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexman*
> 
> Hey guys, have two questions!
> 1. Is it normal to see the red lights turn on during the boot sequence when loading up, say, Windows? For instance, the top red light turns on, then some other red light, then ends off with the one near the VGA. They don't flash or anything, but rather just a solid light then turns off.
> 2. In the BIOs, the red light near the SB heatsink turns on. Once out of the BIOs, it turns off.
> I'm 99% sure that the stuff I'm seeing is normal. I'm just making sure that I didn't mess around a little too much in the BIOs!
> Thanks!


Yes this is normal. I believe the one near the top has to do with CPU check and then the one by the PCIe has to do with checking the PCIe slot. These are just process lights. Almost like when a mobo has the digital read out showing what step of the posting process you are in. That would be found on the higher end boards like the pro or deluxe.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage*
> Thanks selluminus. Speedstep was enabled. However, I did a default settings reset, and redid my ram speed / timings. Now it throttles down like it should.


I find I need to have either C3 or C6 enabled for SS to work and the CPU throttle down. I am on High Performance settings though, not balanced.


----------



## alexman

Thanks for the answers, guys. Much appreciated!

+Reps!


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *psychrage*
> Thanks selluminus. Speedstep was enabled. However, I did a default settings reset, and redid my ram speed / timings. Now it throttles down like it should.
> 
> 
> 
> I find I need to have either C3 or C6 enabled for SS to work and the CPU throttle down. I am on High Performance settings though, not balanced.
Click to expand...

Unless I am mistaken, C1E is all that is required or speedstep. C3 and C6 should be for advanced types of suspend modes. You should still be able to speedstep and sleep your PC in C1E mode.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> I find I need to have either C3 or C6 enabled for SS to work and the CPU throttle down. I am on High Performance settings though, not balanced.


That is your problem. you are on high performance. That happened to me too. Set it to balanced.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> I find I need to have either C3 or C6 enabled for SS to work and the CPU throttle down. I am on High Performance settings though, not balanced.
> 
> 
> 
> That is your problem. you are on high performance. That happened to me too. Set it to balanced.
Click to expand...

Better yet, get out of the basic BIOS and stick to the advanced BIOS and forget ever messing with Asus presets again!


----------



## zerozed

Hi guys and gals,
I'm newbie in overclocking and I just got my first Intel SB CPU. I got a quick question regarding 2600K OC, is it normal to be able to rise the multiplier on all setting at auto. I just reached 45x100 without touching anything else except the multiplier. I noticed in CPU-Z that the VCORE is raising automatically. I was running few days @ 4.3GHz with VCORE 1.29. I just rised the multiplier @ 45 and now is running stable with VCORE 1.32, running Prime95 stable for 2 hours









P.S.
MB: Asus P8Z68-V PRO /GEN3


----------



## KuuFA

usually leaving all the voltages on auto usually pushes more volts than needed so you should try to lower it one step at a time and see if you can get it stable


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerozed*
> 
> Hi guys and gals,
> I'm newbie in overclocking and I just got my first Intel SB CPU. I got a quick question regarding 2600K OC, is it normal to be able to rise the multiplier on all setting at auto. I just reached 45x100 without touching anything else except the multiplier. I noticed in CPU-Z that the VCORE is raising automatically. I was running few days @ 4.3GHz with VCORE 1.29. I just rised the multiplier @ 45 and now is running stable with VCORE 1.32, running Prime95 stable for 2 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.
> MB: Asus P8Z68-V PRO /GEN3


I tried that once. It is a bad idea. I read from an "Asus Rep" that you should leave it in auto. He was selling how easy it is to OC with these boards. It gave way to much vcore than was needed. I would use off set mode and start with a low number and work up until stable. Or try manually setting it. Just do not use auto.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> usually leaving all the voltages on auto usually pushes more volts than needed so you should try to lower it one step at a time and see if you can get it stable


Agreed!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Better yet, get out of the basic BIOS and stick to the advanced BIOS and forget ever messing with Asus presets again!


For sure. I figured that would given for anyone going to OC.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Thanks for clarifying. Sorry for the confusion. (I hate it when I make mistakes!)
> 
> I knew that 1.650V was the limit for Sandy Bridge memory controllers, as I stated. I mistakenly thought that the VDIMM - VTT <= 0.50V applied to SB. The VDIMM-VTT delta applies to the older Lynnfield i5/i7 and Xeon 34XX series microprocessors. It was, and still is true for Lynnfields, but it's not true for the Sandy Bridge!
> 
> So I did more digging to find out why all of the newer DDR3 is 1.500V and not 1.650V anymore, even though 1.650V is the maximum for most SB motherboards. The answer that I found was in the JEDEC DDR3 SDRAM Standards. JEDEC are the folks who set the global standards for semiconductors and they set the DDR3 SDRAM standard to 1.500V, so most of what's sold now is 1.500V because of JEDEC not Sandy Bridge.


No worries, glad to be of help








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Unless I am mistaken, C1E is all that is required or speedstep. C3 and C6 should be for advanced types of suspend modes. You should still be able to speedstep and sleep your PC in C1E mode.


You are correct on this








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> That is your problem. you are on high performance. That happened to me too. Set it to balanced.


No, that's not his problem. Please set your computer to High Performance. Set C3 and C6 to DISABLED and set both C1E and Speedstep to ENABLED (NOT AUTO). With this, you will notice that Speedstep will work even if you are on High Performance. I know because this was once my problem.


----------



## zerozed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I tried that once. It is a bad idea. I read from an "Asus Rep" that you should leave it in auto. He was selling how easy it is to OC with these boards. It gave way to much vcore than was needed. I would use off set mode and start with a low number and work up until stable. Or try manually setting it. Just do not use auto.
> Agreed!


I see, thanks for the heads up. I'll dig a bit more in BIOS then


----------



## wongnog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> That's incorrect, it's dual channel either way A1 & B1 *OR* A2 & B2.
> ASUS recommends A2 & B2 for compatibility


I suspect my A2 slot is defective. My CPU cooler is small enough that I can fit my DIMM in the black A1 & B1 slots. Even though A2 & B2 are "recommended", is there no difference between the black slots?


----------



## Mieske666

It should be fine like that. A2 & B2 are the reccomended ones and could theoretically be more stable but what you do now should just work. Maybe do a memtest to be sure.


----------



## wongnog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> It should be fine like that. A2 & B2 are the reccomended ones and could theoretically be more stable but what you do now should just work. Maybe do a memtest to be sure.


I can't seem to get my memory stable in dual channel mode. My memory is *Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 8GB 2X4GB PC3-10666 DDR3-1333 9-9-9-24 Dual Channel Memory Kit*, and I get IntelBurnTest failures on High stress level after the 2nd run. Both DIMMS seem to be fully stable when installed on their own in either A1 or A2, but are unstable in A1/B1 or A2/B2. My motherboard is the P8Z58-V Pro, and I have BIOS 0902. I'm running on the lowest overclock possible (100x35) with most settings at optimized defaults except:

CPU Voltage = auto
PLL Overvoltage = disabled
Load line calibrtion = ultra high
Phase control = optimized
CPU current capability = 140%

Haven't done a MEMTEST yet but are there some BIOS settings I should try to get a stable dual channel mode?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongnog*
> 
> I can't seem to get my memory stable in dual channel mode. My memory is *Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 8GB 2X4GB PC3-10666 DDR3-1333 9-9-9-24 Dual Channel Memory Kit*, and I get IntelBurnTest failures on High stress level after the 2nd run. Both DIMMS seem to be fully stable when installed on their own in either A1 or A2, but are unstable in A1/B1 or A2/B2. My motherboard is the P8Z58-V Pro, and I have BIOS 0902. I'm running on the lowest overclock possible (100x35) with most settings at optimized defaults except:
> CPU Voltage = auto
> PLL Overvoltage = disabled
> Load line calibrtion = ultra high
> Phase control = optimized
> CPU current capability = 140%
> Haven't done a MEMTEST yet but are there some BIOS settings I should try to get a stable dual channel mode?


This is the same thing that's happening with my Sager NP8130 laptop. What could cause RAM kits producing errors (during stability test) when used in dual channel but are error-free when tested individually or use them at single channel?


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> This is the same thing that's happening with my Sager NP8130 laptop. What could cause RAM kits producing errors (during stability test) when used in dual channel but are error-free when tested individually or use them at single channel?


There's several different causes, but wongnog needs to run Memtest first in each configuration. Start with dual channel A2/B2 (assuming errors), then try one stick at a time in A2 (assuming no errors), then finally try one stick at a time in B2 (this ones critical if the others produce the assumed results).

Most likely, it could be a defect on the board in channel B, or one of the sticks is defective, but you will need Memtest to test further. It could end up being a memory compatibility issue with this memory on this board, but you need to rule out defects first.

*edit* obviously ensure the memory is operating at its recommended timings and voltage in the bios


----------



## Mieske666

Yes i was gonna suggest that. And also test with one channel for stability in daily useage. And indeed the best is to test this at stock...


----------



## Mercyflush64

It may be a silly thing on my part to mention but an easily overlooked issue......did you double check that the bios is running your ram at the correct voltage?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> No, that's not his problem. Please set your computer to High Performance. Set C3 and C6 to DISABLED and set both C1E and Speedstep to ENABLED (NOT AUTO). With this, you will notice that Speedstep will work even if you are on High Performance. I know because this was once my problem.


I had C1E and Speedstep enabled (not auto) and had high performance on. C3 and C6 are disabled. It did not work until I changed it from high to balanced. Unless there is some other setting that I have set incorrectly.


----------



## HornetMaX

OMG









Just wanted to give a go to overclocking my 2500k on a p8z68-v gen3. Not that I really need it, but what the hell, if it's doable ...

Being a lazy man, I gave the Asus auto-overclock (from bios, no AI Suite crap) a chance: 1 click = 4.327 Ghz with a CPU-Z Vcore (under load) of 1.328V.

Just to put a bit more effort in it, I manually modified some stuff: Bclk to 100.0 (it was 103.0), multiplier 45, manual vcore 1.340V. No 12hrs blend test yet (I'll run it asap), but I pass the 1344 and 1792 (a few minutes each). Case fans (Fractal Design Arc Midi) are at minimum speed (40%) and the Thermalright Macho fan goes to 1030 RMP max (fan max is 1300 RPM).

Geez, that was hard. Not.

Is it that simple ?

MaX.

P.S.
I noticed that at idle the CPU was going down to 1.6Ghz: it was not the case before (with Asus default settings). Funky !


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> OMG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to give a go to overclocking my 2500k on a p8z68-v gen3. Not that I really need it, but what the hell, if it's doable ...
> 
> Being a lazy man, I gave the Asus auto-overclock (from bios, no AI Suite crap) a chance: 1 click = 4.327 Ghz with a CPU-Z Vcore (under load) of 1.328V.
> 
> Just to put a bit more effort in it, I manually modified some stuff: Bclk to 100.0 (it was 103.0), multiplier 45, manual vcore 1.340V. No 12hrs blend test yet (I'll run it asap), but I pass the 1344 and 1792 (a few minutes each). Case fans (Fractal Design Arc Midi) are at minimum speed (40%) and the Thermalright Macho fan goes to 1030 RMP max (fan max is 1300 RPM).
> 
> Geez, that was hard. Not.
> 
> Is it that simple ?
> 
> MaX.
> 
> P.S.
> I noticed that at idle the CPU was going down to 1.6Ghz: it was not the case before (with Asus default settings). Funky !


CPU idling down to 1.6 GHz is normal, that's the Enhanced Intel Speedstep function working correctly. (along with C1E state enabled). Switching the BCLK to 100 is a solid plan.

Your core voltage sounds awfully high for that frequency. That's what I run for a 4.7 GHz OC. If the automated settings for 4.3 GHz gave you 1.328V then you should be fine at 1.328V at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz. (They seriously overvolt in the automated settings.)


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> CPU idling down to 1.6 GHz is normal, that's the Enhanced Intel Speedstep function working correctly. (along with C1E state enabled).


I know. The funny thing is that with Asus default settings (prior to auto-OC), this was not happening: speedstep enabled, but cpu-z shows the cpu is always @ 3.3Ghz. Strange ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Your core voltage sounds awfully high for that frequency. That's what I run for a 4.7 GHz OC. If the automated settings for 4.3 GHz gave you 1.328V then you should be fine at 1.328V at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz. (They seriously overvolt in the automated settings.)


If I set the manual Vcore at 1.320V or 1.330V, I fail the 1344 test after a few seconds.

The automated setting however was using the offset mode vcore, with the offset value set to "Auto". 1.320V / 1.328V is what I had in CPU-Z under load with these automated settings.

I didn't change anything with respect to the auto-OC beside what said above (bclk, multiplier and manual vcore). Didn't touch the current capability (100%), Phase control (auto) nor VRM frequency (auto).

That said, if these simple settings pass the 12hrs blend, then I'm not sure I'll chase a lower vcore: 1.368V is well withing what's considered safe, right ?

BTW, at 4.5GHz, my VID is 1.371V

MaX.


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Better yet, get out of the basic BIOS and stick to the advanced BIOS and forget ever messing with Asus presets again!


No presets here. Running an easy 44x OC with -0.015v offset. I ran some tests a while back on the SS issue and enabling/disabling/auto C states. I'll have to dig up my notes (if possible) to see what I did.

... does some searching...
Ah yes... back in post 267, I posted: "I have learned that it doesn't matter if EIST is enabled, speed step is disabled until I enable any of the C options... C1E, C3 report, or C6 report. If I leave them in auto, it stays in turbo. All I need to do is change any one of those from auto to enabled and the EIST works as expected."

Furthermore, I think I found that for whatever reason, I got lower voltages with C3 and C6 enabled.

Looks like I didn't exactly remember what I did 2 months ago.


----------



## Fever

i have been using my p8z68-v/gen3 for about a week, so far so good


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> There's several different causes, but wongnog needs to run Memtest first in each configuration. Start with dual channel A2/B2 (assuming errors), then try one stick at a time in A2 (assuming no errors), then finally try one stick at a time in B2 (this ones critical if the others produce the assumed results).
> Most likely, it could be a defect on the board in channel B, or one of the sticks is defective, but you will need Memtest to test further. It could end up being a memory compatibility issue with this memory on this board, but you need to rule out defects first.
> *edit* obviously ensure the memory is operating at its recommended timings and voltage in the bios


With my laptop, I already ruled out everything. I tested each stick individually using all four DIMM slots and they were error-free. The ONLY time it produces errors is when I use both sticks in dual-channel configuration.

I'm running the sticks on stock configuration because the BIOS of my laptop has no options to set voltage and timings. My RAM modules are rated JEDEC 16000MHz 1.5V CL9. My laptop is a Sandy Bridge laptop with a 2670QM CPU.

What else could cause this? I already RMA'd the kits but the brand new replacement kit that I received was also having the same results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I had C1E and Speedstep enabled (not auto) and had high performance on. C3 and C6 are disabled. It did not work until I changed it from high to balanced. Unless there is some other setting that I have set incorrectly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fever*
> 
> i have been using my p8z68-v/gen3 for about a week, so far so good


Then I think you have other settings that were set incorrectly. Many members here have the same settings as mine and they get Speedstep working properly. FYI, using Balanced instead of High Performance would probably sacrifice a little bit of SSD performance.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Then I think you have other settings that were set incorrectly. Many members here have the same settings as mine and they get Speedstep working properly. FYI, using Balanced instead of High Performance would probably sacrifice a little bit of SSD performance.


I am doing a system revision next weekend. Going to mod case, etc. I will mess with it then. Thanks for the info.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I am doing a system revision next weekend. Going to mod case, etc. I will mess with it then. Thanks for the info.


No problem. Good luck mate!


----------



## wongnog

Wow turns out one of my DIMMs is riddled with errors, over 10000 in 40 sec of memtest. Time to see how good mushkin's lifetime warranty is!


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> If I set the manual Vcore at 1.320V or 1.330V, I fail the 1344 test after a few seconds.
> 
> The automated setting however was using the offset mode vcore, with the offset value set to "Auto". 1.320V / 1.328V is what I had in CPU-Z under load with these automated settings.
> 
> I didn't change anything with respect to the auto-OC beside what said above (bclk, multiplier and manual vcore). Didn't touch the current capability (100%), Phase control (auto) nor VRM frequency (auto).
> 
> That said, if these simple settings pass the 12hrs blend, then I'm not sure I'll chase a lower vcore: 1.368V is well withing what's considered safe, right ?
> 
> BTW, at 4.5GHz, my VID is 1.371V
> 
> MaX.


1.368 Vcore is a perfectly fine voltage for the 2500K. The "safe" 24/7 "user limit" most people believe in is around 1.410 Vcore or 1.420 Vcore.

You can bump the current capability up to 140% and you'll get much more performance out of your OC in terms of flop/s and, in theory, you won't have to change any other settings. (It just removes some throttles that are safe to remove and are holding back your CPU.) I have my current capability at 140% even when I'm at 4.9 GHz and 1.406 Vcore. It's also normally best to put Phase Control to Extreme and VRM frequency to Manual 350. This would probably solve your blue-screen problems and allow you to get a higher OC frequency with the same settings or else use a lower Vcore with the same OC frequency.

My VID at 4.7 GHz and 100% load on all cores is considerably higher than your VID and yet I'm at a lower voltage than you and stable at a higher frequency. Again, my guess is that there's plenty more room in your OC if you try out the above tweaks.


----------



## polloloko

Hello guys,I post my config of my I5 2500K with Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3,is use for 24/7 and no agressive OC.

With Cpu-z the voltaje at 100% was 1,368-1,37 +-

*Offset mode + 0,060
*LLC Medium
*CPU Current Capability 100%
*CPU Ratio 47
*SpeedStep Enable
*CPU C1E Enable
*CPU C3 Enable or Disabled?
*CPU C6 Ebable or Disabled?


----------



## Fever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Then I think you have other settings that were set incorrectly. Many members here have the same settings as mine and they get Speedstep working properly. FYI, using Balanced instead of High Performance would probably sacrifice a little bit of SSD performance.


what you mean? im running on stock speeds and my new build came to me tested and pre-settings already done via my retailer..

also which settings are you using atm? and where is that balanced / high performance settings exactly?


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> With my laptop, I already ruled out everything. I tested each stick individually using all four DIMM slots and they were error-free. The ONLY time it produces errors is when I use both sticks in dual-channel configuration.
> I'm running the sticks on stock configuration because the BIOS of my laptop has no options to set voltage and timings. My RAM modules are rated JEDEC 16000MHz 1.5V CL9. My laptop is a Sandy Bridge laptop with a 2670QM CPU.
> What else could cause this? I already RMA'd the kits but the brand new replacement kit that I received was also having the same results.


Provide the exact model of the laptop and memory. You have ruled out defects in the memory and board channels, but there are plenty of other reasons. Memory compatibility, BIOS version, issue with the memory size (single sided vs dual sided), etc.


----------



## psychrage

4.8GHz @ 1.336V Using Offset - 0.60
Its IBT stable up to 20 runs. It is not yet Prime stable. Though it does seem to not mind being undervolted.



And a couple pictures of the rig. Going to be mounting some Yate Loons in push/pull up top. Just finished sleeving them today. Split loop for CPU and graphics.







Thanks guys.


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> 1.368 Vcore is a perfectly fine voltage for the 2500K. The "safe" 24/7 "user limit" most people believe in is around 1.410 Vcore or 1.420 Vcore.
> 
> You can bump the current capability up to 140% and you'll get much more performance out of your OC in terms of flop/s and, in theory, you won't have to change any other settings. (It just removes some throttles that are safe to remove and are holding back your CPU.) I have my current capability at 140% even when I'm at 4.9 GHz and 1.406 Vcore. It's also normally best to put Phase Control to Extreme and VRM frequency to Manual 350. This would probably solve your blue-screen problems and allow you to get a higher OC frequency with the same settings or else use a lower Vcore with the same OC frequency.
> 
> My VID at 4.7 GHz and 100% load on all cores is considerably higher than your VID and yet I'm at a lower voltage than you and stable at a higher frequency. Again, my guess is that there's plenty more room in your OC if you try out the above tweaks.


Thanks shad0wfax fro the help !

First, my 4.5GHz @ 1.340V manual Vcore BSODed me after 15min gaming (cod4). on the bright side, the automatic 4.3GHz setting (1.328V vcore, offset mode, set to auto) allowed me to play fine 3+ hours.

So I'll go with your suggestion tonight: 140% current, Phase control Extreme, VRM frequency 350 manual.

Should I also set Duty Control extreme, LLC medium and Spread spectrum disabled (seen in your BIOS settings) ?

I'm a bit confused about the Vcore offset mode setting: with the auto-OC it is now in offset mode, but the offset value is "auto".
What does this mean ? Supposing this setting is stable, how do I compute the equivalent value of offset assuming I want to get rid of the "auto" setting ?

Or should i just forget about the offset mode at the moment, make it stable, let's say, at 4.5GHz @ 1.340V manual and try to reduce the Vcore from there in manual mode ?

MaX.


----------



## zerozed

Sorry if my question is noobish. I OCed my CPU @ 4.5GHZ with manual vcore 1.28, so far stable with prime. But it constantly runs with this vcore even when speedstep is enabled and automatically underclocks itself @ 1.6GHz. Am I missing something?


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerozed*
> 
> Sorry if my question is noobish. I OCed my CPU @ 4.5GHZ with manual vcore 1.28, so far stable with prime. But it constantly runs with this vcore even when speedstep is enabled and automatically underclocks itself @ 1.6GHz. Am I missing something?


Thats completly normal, its that function which name I just forgot









You can get your volts down with that idle 1.6GHz by using offset voltage instead of manual voltage.


----------



## zerozed

But in this case I'm ending with vcore= 1.32 under load. And I can see that my CPU can run on 1.29 with manual.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Thats completly normal, its that function which name I just forgot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get your volts down with that idle 1.6GHz by using offset voltage instead of manual voltage.


I have a similar situation in that I set the manual vcore to 1.28v. What would be a good starting point using offset voltage instead?


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage*
> 
> 4.8GHz @ 1.336V Using Offset - 0.60
> Its IBT stable up to 20 runs. It is not yet Prime stable. Though it does seem to not mind being undervolted.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I hid your pictures in a spoiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple pictures of the rig. Going to be mounting some Yate Loons in push/pull up top. Just finished sleeving them today. Split loop for CPU and graphics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys.


Intel Burn Test seems to be more tolerant of under-voltage and excessive Vdroop than Prime95. I believe that is because IBT simply Linpacks your CPU into an ultra-high load state and holds it there with little power transients but Prime95 Blend has constant power transients as FFT lengths change asynchronously. Due to Prime95 Blend's constantly changing FFT lengths, you encounter many more load/unload transients and expose instability that is not commonly caught with IBT. My Prime95 Blend stable voltages are consistently 0.010 to 0.020 higher than IBT "stable" initial values.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I hid my own quote in a spoiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.368 Vcore is a perfectly fine voltage for the 2500K. The "safe" 24/7 "user limit" most people believe in is around 1.410 Vcore or 1.420 Vcore.
> 
> You can bump the current capability up to 140% and you'll get much more performance out of your OC in terms of flop/s and, in theory, you won't have to change any other settings. (It just removes some throttles that are safe to remove and are holding back your CPU.) I have my current capability at 140% even when I'm at 4.9 GHz and 1.406 Vcore. It's also normally best to put Phase Control to Extreme and VRM frequency to Manual 350. This would probably solve your blue-screen problems and allow you to get a higher OC frequency with the same settings or else use a lower Vcore with the same OC frequency.
> 
> My VID at 4.7 GHz and 100% load on all cores is considerably higher than your VID and yet I'm at a lower voltage than you and stable at a higher frequency. Again, my guess is that there's plenty more room in your OC if you try out the above tweaks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks shad0wfax fro the help !
> 
> First, my 4.5GHz @ 1.340V manual Vcore BSODed me after 15min gaming (cod4). on the bright side, the automatic 4.3GHz setting (1.328V vcore, offset mode, set to auto) allowed me to play fine 3+ hours.
> 
> So I'll go with your suggestion tonight: 140% current, Phase control Extreme, VRM frequency 350 manual.
> 
> Should I also set Duty Control extreme, LLC medium and Spread spectrum disabled (seen in your BIOS settings) ?
> 
> I'm a bit confused about the Vcore offset mode setting: with the auto-OC it is now in offset mode, but the offset value is "auto".
> What does this mean ? Supposing this setting is stable, how do I compute the equivalent value of offset assuming I want to get rid of the "auto" setting ?
> 
> Or should i just forget about the offset mode at the moment, make it stable, let's say, at 4.5GHz @ 1.340V manual and try to reduce the Vcore from there in manual mode ?
> 
> MaX.
Click to expand...

The 140% current, extreme phase control, and manual VRM at 350 should get you all the way to 5.0 GHz, assuming the rest of your system can handle that frequency, should you ever decide to push that far.
I also use the Duty Control Extreme and recommend that as well.

LLC Medium is a value that I came up with on my own. Using this value requires more positive offset (or less negative offset) and/or more turbo voltage additions, but results in less power being consumed by the VRM circuitry as well as the CPU itself in most situations. I discovered that a high turbo boost (or high offset) voltage along with a relatively low LLC at 4.7 GHz gave me higher benchmarks and more Flop/s than a High or Ultra High LLC with a much lower offset (or turbo boost) gave me. I discovered that on High or Ultra-High I would hit silent throttle limits and it would harm long-term benchmark performance. This is something you'll have to experiment with on a case-by-case basis and note that my rationale for using this value was based entirely on Flop/s benchmark performance to minimize throttling.

Spread Spectrum disabled is also something that you have to experiment with on a case-by-case basis. Always disable it or enable it; never let it use automatic mode. Many users have reported that enabling it is the key to reaching 4.8 - 5.2+ GHz clock speeds and that with Spread Spectrum disabled the higher clocks were not attainable. I have seen no difference with it enabled or disabled in terms of my system stability, so I disabled it, as it's one less load on the motherboard that way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerozed*
> 
> Sorry if my question is noobish. I OCed my CPU @ 4.5GHZ with manual vcore 1.28, so far stable with prime. But it constantly runs with this vcore even when speedstep is enabled and automatically underclocks itself @ 1.6GHz. Am I missing something?


Speedstep being enabled is what allows the CPU to clock itself automatically between 1.6 GHz and your 4.5 GHz setting, depending on CPU load. This is normal behavior.

Since you chose a manual voltage, your voltage will always be the vcore that you set of 1.280. If you use an offset value, then the voltage will be automatic and will vary with load. The higher the offset, the higher voltage will be, and you adjust the offset so that your peak voltage is where you desire it to be for stability. However, too high of an offset will cause your idle voltage to remain high. You could instead use a smaller positive (or even a negative) offset and then use a turbo boost voltage (which is always positive) to force your minimum voltage at idle to the lowest stable value that you desire while still maintaining the highest voltage as the minimum stable voltage at load.

Your other option is to keep your current manual settings at 1.280V 24/7 and not save as much power.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Thats completly normal, its that function which name I just forgot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get your volts down with that idle 1.6GHz by using offset voltage instead of manual voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a similar situation in that I set the manual vcore to 1.28v. What would be a good starting point using offset voltage instead?
Click to expand...

That depends on your LLC value, and what your other BIOS settings are. Guessing without knowing the rest of your system details would not be wise. You can look at the BIOS settings I posted above to get an idea. Note that a positive offset of 0.045 resulted in the same peak voltages and stable load voltages for me as the negative offset of 0.030 combined with the turbo boost of 0.124. The negative offset with turbo boost voltage simply shifted the minimum voltage from 1.000V down to 0.920V. (I do not get bluescreens at idle, but some may if their Vcore drops this low.)


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I have a similar situation in that I set the manual vcore to 1.28v. What would be a good starting point using offset voltage instead?


This is the speed step feature. I would set the off set to + and then something like .025 and go from there. If stable then lower until unstable. Opposite if unstable at .025.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> This is the speed step feature. I would set the off set to + and then something like .025 and go from there. If stable then lower until unstable. Opposite if unstable at .025.


Thanks. I did as suggested and then ran Prime95 for a bit and all was stable. I then dropped the offset to .015 and all seems OK so far. I do see now that my idle Vcore is low...varies in the .7xx to .9xx range per CPU-Z and tops out at 1.312 during Prime95 blend test. I guess you trade off a little higher voltage during full OC for a consistently low voltage when idle....makes sense. I don't do things to fully OC my system a lot so this should be good.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> This is the speed step feature. I would set the off set to + and then something like .025 and go from there. If stable then lower until unstable. Opposite if unstable at .025.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I did as suggested and then ran Prime95 for a bit and all was stable. I then dropped the offset to .015 and all seems OK so far. I do see now that my idle Vcore is low...varies in the .7xx to .9xx range per CPU-Z and tops out at 1.312 during Prime95 blend test. I guess you trade off a little higher voltage during full OC for a consistently low voltage when idle....makes sense. I don't do things to fully OC my system a lot so this should be good.
Click to expand...

As I learned not too long ago, you can increase your idle voltage to your desired value using offset. (Mine is stable at around 0.920 Vcore on idle.) And then you can use the turbo boost voltage to increase your load voltages to meet demand at high loads. This way you don't have to trade off high voltage at full OC.


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> The 140% current, extreme phase control, and manual VRM at 350 should get you all the way to 5.0 GHz, assuming the rest of your system can handle that frequency, should you ever decide to push that far.
> 
> I also use the Duty Control Extreme and recommend that as well.
> 
> LLC Medium is a value that I came up with on my own.
> 
> Spread Spectrum disabled is also something that you have to experiment with on a case-by-case basis.


I've duplicated most of your profile (as seen here), except the manual CPU PLL voltage (left it on auto).

At x45, offset +0.050V and +0.030V pass a quick 1344/1792 prime95, while offset +0.010V crashes after a few seconds.

I let a custom blend run the night (x45, offset +0.030V) but it failed somewhere.

Noob inside: I didn't set realtemp to log to a file, so I don't know when it failed, as I've found the PC restarted, already in Windows. Anyway, it failed after more than 3 hours. Maybe I can see time (and failure code) via the memory dumps done by Windows.

I've just started another one at +0.040V. Starting to think that the Auto-OC was not that bad









MaX.


----------



## zerozed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> As I learned not too long ago, you can increase your idle voltage to your desired value using offset. (Mine is stable at around 0.920 Vcore on idle.) And then you can use the turbo boost voltage to increase your load voltages to meet demand at high loads. This way you don't have to trade off high voltage at full OC.


At first I set the offset at +0.005 and the result in cpu-z was 1.32 under load, 1.00 V when idle. I got similar results when I leave everything on auto and just rising the multiplier.
Now I set the offset at -0.005 and I got 1.31 under load and 0.991 V when idle. Do you know what value is stable for this CPU when idle ? Should I continue to drop the offset ?


----------



## Mieske666

This is different on every SB chip you can drop the offset till it's not stable in idele and then one or two notches up. Also with LLC you can have some control over Idle vcore. The lower the LLC the more vcore in idle you will have. This at the cost of vdrops under load. You will have to play around with those settings. But finding the right valeus for LLC and offset makes the chip stable under both conditions while minimizing power usage. It's worth it IMO.


----------



## HornetMaX

I passed 12hrs blend at x45, +0.040V offset (Vcore = 1.360V under load).

See this post.

If it can stand 4hrs of cod4, it's all good for me
















Thanks shadowfax.

MaX.


----------



## zerozed

Is there a reason why Vcore is dropping while testing with Prime?
Yesterday I set offset (-0.020) and my PC booted normally @ 4.5GHz . I noticed on cpu-z, while windows was booting, vcore 1.27 - 1.30, on idle was 0.967. My PC was totally stable for hours playing Battlefield, running 3dmark, browsing with vcore @ 1.27 - 1.29. While I finally decided to test with Prime noticed that the vcore started at first with 1.27 - 1.26 then in next 1 hour was constantly dropping, until 1.25 - 1.24 V when my Windows finally gave me BSOD. Is this a normal behavior with Prime? I have 16Gigs of RAM and I set on Prime to use 11 or 12 of them.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerozed*
> 
> Is there a reason why Vcore is dropping while testing with Prime?
> Yesterday I set offset (-0.020) and my PC booted normally @ 4.5GHz . I noticed on cpu-z, while windows was booting, vcore 1.27 - 1.30, on idle was 0.967. My PC was totally stable for hours playing Battlefield, running 3dmark, browsing with vcore @ 1.27 - 1.29. While I finally decided to test with Prime noticed that the vcore started at first with 1.27 - 1.26 then in next 1 hour was constantly dropping, until 1.25 - 1.24 V when my Windows finally gave me BSOD. Is this a normal behavior with Prime? I have 16Gigs of RAM and I set on Prime to use 11 or 12 of them.


That would be Vdroop kicking in, and it's normal behavior with the Intel Core series CPUs. The greater the load, the more the core voltage tends to drop. (Changing your LLC value can reduce the amount it drops by, or you can increase the offset voltage or manual voltage or turbo voltage to counteract Vdroop, if the droop causes you bluescreens. If the droop isn't causing you bluescreens, there's no reason to mess with voltages.)


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> The 140% current, extreme phase control, and manual VRM at 350 should get you all the way to 5.0 GHz, assuming the rest of your system can handle that frequency, should you ever decide to push that far.
> 
> I also use the Duty Control Extreme and recommend that as well.
> 
> LLC Medium is a value that I came up with on my own.
> 
> Spread Spectrum disabled is also something that you have to experiment with on a case-by-case basis.
> 
> 
> 
> I've duplicated most of your profile (as seen here), except the manual CPU PLL voltage (left it on auto).
> 
> At x45, offset +0.050V and +0.030V pass a quick 1344/1792 prime95, while offset +0.010V crashes after a few seconds.
> 
> I let a custom blend run the night (x45, offset +0.030V) but it failed somewhere.
> 
> Noob inside: I didn't set realtemp to log to a file, so I don't know when it failed, as I've found the PC restarted, already in Windows. Anyway, it failed after more than 3 hours. Maybe I can see time (and failure code) via the memory dumps done by Windows.
> 
> I've just started another one at +0.040V. Starting to think that the Auto-OC was not that bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaX.
Click to expand...

*Ah, I've changed my profile to a more efficient setup. Here's the link to my new set-up:*

http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/7240#post_16449965

The PLL voltage is usually not necessary to tweak, but I actually reduced mine clear down to 1.550V in the above link and had good results with it. I've actually booted into the OS at 5.2 GHz now, can run 5.0 GHz stable (but with 89-92C temperatures in IBT / Prime Small FFT that I'm not at all comfortable with) and I'm working on an efficient and low-temp 4.9 GHz profile, if I can get it 18 hour Prime95 custom blend stable.

Do check my new settings though for a more efficient model.

Also, you can check to see where your tests failed by consulting the Prime95 folder and looking for the file "results.txt" where you will find the last successful FFT lengths tested.

Then you can check this list of all FFT lengths that a Prime 95 Blend test will run on an i5:



Spoiler: This is a list of all FFT lengths that will be tested on an i5 in Prime95 Blend




640K
8K
720K
12K
800K
16K
960K
24K
1120K
32K
1200K
48K
1344K
64K
1536K
80K
1680K
96K
1792K
128K
2048K
160K
2304K
224K
2560K
256K
2800K
320K
3072K
384K
3360K
448K
3584K
512K
576K
672K
10K
768K
14K
896K
20K
1024K
28K
1152K
40K
1280K
56K
1440K
72K
1600K
84K
1728K
112K
1920K
144K
2240K
192K
2400K
240K
2688K
288K
2880K
336K
3200K
400K
3456K
480K
3840K
560K
4096K




Most Sandy Bridge seem to have trouble with the 1344 and 1792 lengths, which are tested in that time period. However, on my machine, it's the test #60 at 2688K that will cause me to fail usually, and that doesn't happen until around the 15 hour mark at the default 15 minute time frame.

If you're going to leave the default time to run each FFT at 15 minutes, it will take you about 17.5 to 18 hours to finish all FFT lengths in a Blend test (assuming that there aren't core imbalances.)

If you shorten the time to 10 minutes per FFT length, you can test all of them in about 12 hours, again assuming no core imbalances.

If you're looking for a quick and dirty OC test, just to see if your latest setting is moderately stable, you can shorten the time to test each FFT to 1 minute and after around 70 minutes you should be done.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fever*
> 
> what you mean? im running on stock speeds and my new build came to me tested and pre-settings already done via my retailer..
> also which settings are you using atm? and where is that balanced / high performance settings exactly?


My comment was directed selluminis.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Provide the exact model of the laptop and memory. You have ruled out defects in the memory and board channels, but there are plenty of other reasons. Memory compatibility, BIOS version, issue with the memory size (single sided vs dual sided), etc.


Sager NP8130 with Kingston HyperX 2x4GB 1600MHz CL9 Plug-and-Play kit. So you suggest I try with a different RAM?


----------



## FourDoor

I got my Pro/Gen3 (i7-2600k and H100) up and running this weekend and using the onboard video at the moment as I'm waiting for the new Nvidia cards to be released. The board is hooked up via HDMI to DVI convertor to monitor 1 and straight DVI for monitor 2 and the board is on it's stock settings for now as I load the PC up with my software.

Well anyways, I started to notice random pixels flicker on the screen when using Lightroom to edit my photos. I first thought it could be the monitor but the blinking pixels change depending on the photo being edited.

The temps all seemed normal on the cores and the mobo so I don't know what could be causing it. The only thing I can think of is that the HDMI to DVI convertor is faulty as I just did notice the flickering only on monitor 1

Any thoughts? Has anyone seen this before?


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Sager NP8130 with Kingston HyperX 2x4GB 1600MHz CL9 Plug-and-Play kit. So you suggest I try with a different RAM?


Check out this thread, post #17 in particular. Issues with 2x4GB kits and/or the HyperX.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/568595-request-owners-sager-np8130-50-factory-bios-dump-afu-2.html


----------



## zerozed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> That would be Vdroop kicking in, and it's normal behavior with the Intel Core series CPUs. The greater the load, the more the core voltage tends to drop. (Changing your LLC value can reduce the amount it drops by, or you can increase the offset voltage or manual voltage or turbo voltage to counteract Vdroop, if the droop causes you bluescreens. If the droop isn't causing you bluescreens, there's no reason to mess with voltages.)


Thanks man, that fixed the problem!
Take a look 1 hour + with prime and the OC is stable with current settings, offset = (-0.025) & LLC = medium


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerozed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> That would be Vdroop kicking in, and it's normal behavior with the Intel Core series CPUs. The greater the load, the more the core voltage tends to drop. (Changing your LLC value can reduce the amount it drops by, or you can increase the offset voltage or manual voltage or turbo voltage to counteract Vdroop, if the droop causes you bluescreens. If the droop isn't causing you bluescreens, there's no reason to mess with voltages.)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man, that fixed the problem!
> Take a look 1 hour + with prime and the OC is stable with current settings, offset = (-0.025) & LLC = medium
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I hid your picture in a spoiler link to save space.
Click to expand...

You're welcome.

That looks great. Voltages and temperatures are about what I'd expect at 4.5 GHz. I also prefer the Medium LLC, as I can keep my offset magnitude smaller, still idle down low at 0.920 Vcore, and yet my maximum load (and overshoot) voltages are quite mild. I've found that a Medium LLC is a bit more electrically (and thermally) efficient as well a bit more efficient at processing speed (Flop/s) at a given frequency than using a higher value of LLC is. I was able to use Medium LLC all the way up through 4.9 GHz but when I went for 5.0, 5.1, and 5.2 GHz I needed a higher value of LLC to combat Vdroop. (And my temperatures were too hot to make 5.1 or 5.2 GHz worthwhile. Perhaps if I were water-cooled...)

You can adjust your negative LLC even lower to reduce your idle voltage further, but be careful not to get bluescreens at idle. If you need more voltage at your maximum load, use the turbo voltage adjustment, as it's always positive. Kudos for going with offset mode!


----------



## General121

Hey guys, Id like to be added to the list! Recently got this after two defaulty ASRock boards...Hopefully Ill use the OC Guide







Meanwehile, heres pics and evidence of stock nub settings and nub gpu


----------



## R.D.BID

I'm curious about the CPU temps being reported by ASUS Fan Xpert vs. Core Temp's reporting.

Core Temp seems to be about 10 C higher than what Fan Xpert reports. Which temp should I believe?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R.D.BID*
> 
> I'm curious about the CPU temps being reported by ASUS Fan Xpert vs. Core Temp's reporting.
> Core Temp seems to be about 10 C higher than what Fan Xpert reports. Which temp should I believe?


Don't use the asus software......


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R.D.BID*
> 
> I'm curious about the CPU temps being reported by ASUS Fan Xpert vs. Core Temp's reporting.
> Core Temp seems to be about 10 C higher than what Fan Xpert reports. Which temp should I believe?


Core temp and if you keep using FanXpert (I do) then just make sure you adjust the fans to cover the right temp range (considering that 10 degree difference).


----------



## R.D.BID

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Core temp and if you keep using FanXpert (I do) then just make sure you adjust the fans to cover the right temp range (considering that 10 degree difference).


Ok, thanks for the input. Any idea why there is so much discrepancy between the two?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R.D.BID*
> 
> Ok, thanks for the input. Any idea why there is so much discrepancy between the two?


Since Core2 duos, I think, anyway since there have been multiple cores, temperatures have not been measured directly, but inferred from DTS sensors. DTS sensors don't actually read temperature, but measure distance to throttling. Throttling is assumed to match tjmax, and all lower temperatures are inferred from a gradient which gives "temps" that are least accurate at idle and can be 10c out. Core temps are therefore just an approximate guide, and most accurate at high temps.

Your actual cpu temp (as opposed to core temp) might be more accurate, but I'm not even sure proper temperature sensors are used.

ChickenInferno wrote a good thread on this, for those interested enough.

The Truth about Temperatures and Voltages
Quote:


> Intel has stated that the DTS sensors are designed for Throttling and Shutdown protection, are more accurate at very high temperatures, become unreliable below 50c, and should be disregarded at Idle. Intel has also stated that Tjunction Max values vary between individual cores, and have a "range" or target value that can be as much as +/- 10c due to variables such as sensor "slope" error, which is especially pronounced on 45nm parts. This highlights the reason why Tjunction Max Values are rounded to the nearest 5c, such as 85c or 100c, while Tcase Max values are instead precise numbers to the tenths of a degree, such as the Q6600 B3 at 62.2c


http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/250157-29-q6600-tjmax-right

Big difference between Tcase and Tj Max remember too.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R.D.BID*
> 
> Ok, thanks for the input. Any idea why there is so much discrepancy between the two?


FanXpert is using the bios readings. I do not know why but all of the software driven sensors read about 10c higher than in your bios. This is not just with Asus boards but was also the same with my Gigabyte board. I was using an e84oo with the Gigabyte and those chips are notorious for having bad sensors. It would never read anything below 44c in real temp and other software. In fact some software upgrades had a 15c offset option so you could match what your bios reads.

Right now core temp is showing me running at 27c but when I reboot the bios shows me 19c.


----------



## psychrage

When can I be in the club?


----------



## Montagar

Has anyone been able to get SpeedFan to control the fans on any of the P8Z68 mobos? I know that they are not in the list of supported boards, but just wanted to check to see if anyone has been able to get it to work. SpeedFan works fine controlling my GPU fan (HD6950), but I wanted to have it control all of the fans (the ones that are able to be controlled, of course







).


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> FanXpert is using the bios readings. I do not know why but all of the software driven sensors read about 10c higher than in your bios. This is not just with Asus boards but was also the same with my Gigabyte board. I was using an e84oo with the Gigabyte and those chips are notorious for having bad sensors. It would never read anything below 44c in real temp and other software. In fact some software upgrades had a 15c offset option so you could match what your bios reads.
> Right now core temp is showing me running at 27c but when I reboot the bios shows me 19c.


Ever since I flashed to 0902 my BIOS has been reading CPU temps 10 degrees lower than they actually are. This is a pain cause I need FanXpert to change CPU fan RPMs accordingly and so I had to set a custom fan profile. Really wish they would fix this.


----------



## FourDoor

Can I be part of the club too (Asus Z68 Pro/Gen3)?










Phantom (12) by Roque Images, on Flickr

Now time to read and learn how to OC this bad boy because I've never overclocked before in my life!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montagar*
> 
> Has anyone been able to get SpeedFan to control the fans on any of the P8Z68 mobos? I know that they are not in the list of supported boards, but just wanted to check to see if anyone has been able to get it to work. SpeedFan works fine controlling my GPU fan (HD6950), but I wanted to have it control all of the fans (the ones that are able to be controlled, of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


I tried to get it to work, but it did not seem to do anything.


----------



## Rothe31

I'm in....working on OC my i7 and getting the proper tests....trying to get over the 5ghz hump....proving ot be a little more difficult!


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rothe31*
> 
> I'm in....working on OC my i7 and getting the proper tests....trying to get over the 5ghz hump....proving ot be a little more difficult!


I hit 4.7 easily with my i5. 4.8 was not too bad, and 4.9 was a bit of a challenge. I spent quite a long time getting 5.0 and when I did figure 5.0 out, I also nailed 5.1 and 5.2 (but the 5.1 and 5.2 ran too hot to be useful to me).

It's strange sometimes. I thought for sure that I had hit a wall at 4.9 and that I'd never even get into Windows at 5.0. But then I was looking at my voltages and thinking that I had plenty of headroom left and that it should be possible. I made a few extremely minor tweaks and suddenly it was a breakthrough.

Overclocking sure is strange sometimes! What sort of voltages are you at?


----------



## swarm87

was reading through my manual(p8z68-V pro gen 3) while waiting for my psu to arrive and was just wondering if theres any difference in the auto overclock between using ai suite or the tpu switch? what method is better im only looking for a very mild clock increase(~4.3ghz)


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swarm87*
> 
> was reading through my manual(p8z68-V pro gen 3) while waiting for my psu to arrive and was just wondering if theres any difference in the auto overclock between using ai suite or the tpu switch? what method is better im only looking for a very mild clock increase(~4.3ghz)


I think that you'd be best off learning the BIOS and getting a 4.3 GHz manually. For that matter, you can probably expect 4.5 or 4.6 GHz at low voltages and temperatures with minimal effort. (It could be as simple as twenty seconds worth of BIOS changes to get 4.7 GHz even. In my case, it was literally that easy, although I spent quite a bit more time making my OC more efficient.)

The physical TPU switch on the board uses the exact same procedure as the "OC Tuner" setting enabled in the BIOS itself. I'm only guessing that the TPU switch and the BIOS level OC Tuner use the same "Standard" OC Tuner methods that are found in the AI Suite II. If I recall from when I played with the settings, the TPU/OCTuner and the lowest level AI Suite II OC Tuner both produced the same frequencies and voltages. I assume they came to those settings by the same methods. The AI Suite II also has an "extreme" OC Tuner that goes a bit beyond what the standard AI Suite II OC profile was.

The AI Suite is generally regarded as a poor program in most circles here. My own opinion of the AI Suite was that it gave me false readings, false warnings, took up too many system resources, and was using too much voltage for a given frequency. I decided to uninstall it and found that it left parts behind in the services, the registry, and on the HDD. It was not easy to completely remove from the system, despite it "uninstalling" correctly.

Again, you'd probably be better off learning the BIOS and doing a manual overclock. I never recommend using the AI Suite II, as I feel it is bloated.

That being said, if you still want to use the AI Suite, it will do a decent job of automatically overclocking your system, but you could probably do a better job in the BIOS.


----------



## Mercyflush64

The stock defaults with the turbo switched on gets you 4.3


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> The stock defaults with the turbo switched on gets you 4.3


That depends on the BIOS and CPU. My 2500K goes from 3.3 to 3.7 in default turbo mode, but I can hit 4.4 GHz on "stock" voltages with a bit of manual tweaking in the BIOS.


----------



## draceel

p8z68-v pro gen3 ... prime95 running for 2 hours so far


----------



## General121

Can someone add me to the list? Is the manager still active?


----------



## dootinbob

Sign me up too..


----------



## jhebi

Hi sorry newbie on this site.

I just finished building my pc

Case : Coolmaster Storm
CPU: i7 2600K
Mb: P8Z68-V LX
Video Card: HD6850 Radeon
Power Supply: OCZ ZS series 550W
Memory: 16GB DDR3-1333 (PC3-10600) CL9 U-DIMM (Crucial Ballistix)
Hard Drive: OCZ Agility 3 120GB

I am having a huge probem with booting time. It takes forever about 30 seconds on power on and also when trying to restart, my pc wont restart I need to power off and power on again

I try to disable the internal PLL and also enable the PCi slot but no success. any other guide that could help my booting time

Thanks

Ale


----------



## psychrage

Set your boot drive, disabled the Marvell SATA controller, and the JMB storage controller. Also, disable the PXE OPROM option


----------



## Stu-Crossfire

Hi guys, Z68 owner here too.
I have done 5.2ghz on my i2600K so far and still playing every night.


----------



## eNkrypt

Z68 Owner here








http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/4045119


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Check out this thread, post #17 in particular. Issues with 2x4GB kits and/or the HyperX.
> http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/568595-request-owners-sager-np8130-50-factory-bios-dump-afu-2.html


The thing is that the Kingston HyperX memory kits talked about in that thread pertains to "XMP" kits that don't work with laptops (at that time the JEDEC standard for 1600MHz for those HyperX kits was not yet released). What I have now is the new PnP HyperX memory kit; PnP means plug and play or in other words JEDEC 1600MHz. So my problem is kind of different with the one discussed there.


----------



## jhebi

Thanks, but I can't fin on my BIOS options. Maybe my motherboard model doesn't have those options?

Anything else I could do. Thanks


----------



## jhebi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhebi*
> 
> Thanks, but I can't fin on my BIOS options. Maybe my motherboard model doesn't have those options?
> Anything else I could do. Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage*
> 
> Set your boot drive, disabled the Marvell SATA controller, and the JMB storage controller. Also, disable the PXE OPROM option


----------



## ROKA

Hello Guys I am a owner of P8Z68 Deluxe Gen/3. I have been getting some weird issues with the board.
AI Suit II keeps warning me for low motherboard temperature. It indicates the temp is 40 for few hours and then suddenly BOOM it gives me a warning message saying that my Motherboard temperature is -35C. It warns me at 0.C and then keeps warning me. Also saids my CPU temp is below 0.C once in a while.Does this mean my Sensor Recorder has a problem?.I would appreciate your advice guys. Thanks!!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROKA*
> 
> Hello Guys I am a owner of P8Z68 Deluxe Gen/3. I have been getting some weird issues with the board.
> AI Suit II keeps warning me for low motherboard temperature. It indicates the temp is 40 for few hours and then suddenly BOOM it gives me a warning message saying that my Motherboard temperature is -35C. It warns me at 0.C and then keeps warning me. Also saids my CPU temp is below 0.C once in a while.Does this mean my Sensor Recorder has a problem?.I would appreciate your advice guys. Thanks!!


You shouldn't use the built in ASUS software to monitor temps. Uninstall that part of the AI suite and use somthing like OpenHardwareMonitor or Hardware Monitor. ASUS temp monitor software is always buggy and give's all kinds of crazy readings.


----------



## ROKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> You shouldn't use the built in ASUS software to monitor temps. Uninstall that part of the AI suite and use somthing like OpenHardwareMonitor or Hardware Monitor. ASUS temp monitor software is always buggy and give's all kinds of crazy readings.


So I guess I dont have to worry about these readings? I should Uninstall AI Suit II.....


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROKA*
> 
> So I guess I dont have to worry about these readings? I should Uninstall AI Suit II.....


yea. I would uninstall anything in AI suit II your not going to use and use one of the hardware monitors I recommended above. 40c is a normal temp IMO, but the dropping down to an insane low temp all the sudden is a glitch. It did it on my rig too.


----------



## ROKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> yea. I would uninstall anything in AI suit II your not going to use and use one of the hardware monitors I recommended above. 40c is a normal temp IMO, but the dropping down to an insane low temp all the sudden is a glitch. It did it on my rig too.


Thanks for the assurance man. I will use the programs that you have recommended me!!.


----------



## RedStapler

Hi guys... I'm going to be ordering my Asus P8Z68 board tonight or tomorrow and having it overnighted. I have had my eyes on the P8Z68 VPro Gen3 for a while now, but when I went to Frys tonight, they didn't have them in stock. So I started considering my alternatives, and thought I'd ask here if anyone could easily explain the differences (in one or two sentences) between the v-pro and the v-le or the v. I'm considering a cheaper board if I don't need all the features of the pro, but they don't make it easy to understand what, exactly, makes the pro better than the others. Thanks in advance, and just FYI, I +rep like mad.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedStapler*
> 
> Hi guys... I'm going to be ordering my Asus P8Z68 board tonight or tomorrow and having it overnighted. I have had my eyes on the P8Z68 VPro Gen3 for a while now, but when I went to Frys tonight, they didn't have them in stock. So I started considering my alternatives, and thought I'd ask here if anyone could easily explain the differences (in one or two sentences) between the v-pro and the v-le or the v. I'm considering a cheaper board if I don't need all the features of the pro, but they don't make it easy to understand what, exactly, makes the pro better than the others. Thanks in advance, and just FYI, I +rep like mad.


I have the the v/gen3 model. Was going to go with the pro but did not want to pay extra for some of the nicer features. Main differences between the v and pro are the clear cmos button in the i/o panel. I have done many bad oc on the v model board and have never had to reset cmos. So I did not see the point in that. Also, the pro has the nice diagnostics read out that shows you a number that corrisponds to a boot process. This would be useful if you have bad hardware and are having issues posting. I took that gamble and so far have not needed it. Also, the pro came with a front USB 3.0 bracket. The v does not. My case has this already, so I did not need that. It also has a reset button on the PCB along with the Power button where as the v model only has the power button. Those where about the only differences. I am not sure about the LE model. I do not think it has pcie 3.0 support. Not sure on that. You need to also make sure you are getting the P8Z68P-V/Gen3 board and not just the regular P8Z68-V.

Hope this helps....


----------



## RedStapler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I have the the v/gen3 model. Was going to go with the pro but did not want to pay extra for some of the nicer features. Main differences between the v and pro are the clear cmos button in the i/o panel. I have done many bad oc on the v model board and have never had to reset cmos. So I did not see the point in that. Also, the pro has the nice diagnostics read out that shows you a number that corrisponds to a boot process. This would be useful if you have bad hardware and are having issues posting. I took that gamble and so far have not needed it. Also, the pro came with a front USB 3.0 bracket. The v does not. My case has this already, so I did not need that. It also has a reset button on the PCB along with the Power button where as the v model only has the power button. Those where about the only differences. I am not sure about the LE model. I do not think it has pcie 3.0 support. Not sure on that. You need to also make sure you are getting the P8Z68P-V/Gen3 board and not just the regular P8Z68-V.
> Hope this helps....


+rep









Thank you so much, that REALLY helps me decide a lot. The only thing I've noticed tha tyou didn't mention is that it seems that the v may not support Sata 6 in RAID but I'm not 100% sure on that. I know the board does have some raid support, but it may not cover the sata 6 ports. Newegg's information is ambiguous. I'm really kinda leaning toward the V.... as long as I'm not losing any OC capacity.


----------



## dootinbob

Hey all new build and everything is great except rig boots into american megatrend bios instead of windows. i Already did all of the double boot fixes, which worked by the way. Plz help to boot directly to windows. SSD is saved achi and 1st boot priority. BTW running 4500mhz 1.3 volt and 62c max in prime. thx site..


----------



## Stu-Crossfire

Hi guys,
I also have a P8Z68-VPro/Gen 3 and have a problem with it that I hope you guys can help me with.

If I have to shut down wiondows, it takes forever to post.
The screen goes blank as usual, then the Asus Bios screen appears and it sits there doing nothing for between 3 and 4 minutes, then suddenly, hard disk light flashes and it loads windows up as fast as ever. usually about 10 seconds.

I have tried resetting bios to defaults and it hasnt helped. Could this board have developed a fault?

It was fine when I first got it, bar having a wierd sequence of booting three times, but that was fixed by disabling the marvel and and ESATA controllers.

*Basic spec as follows:*
i72600K
16GB DDR 3
2x 7970 in X-Fire.
OCZ 240GB SSD
XFX 1250w PSU
Win 7 ultimate 64bit

* I have made a seperate topic about this too *


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedStapler*
> 
> +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much, that REALLY helps me decide a lot. The only thing I've noticed tha tyou didn't mention is that it seems that the v may not support Sata 6 in RAID but I'm not 100% sure on that. I know the board does have some raid support, but it may not cover the sata 6 ports. Newegg's information is ambiguous. I'm really kinda leaning toward


That is a good question. I do not mess with raid, yet, so I am not sure. I think the v has 2 less sata 3 Ports too. But from what I under stand, the extra Ports suck anyway as they are Marvell, or whatever, instead of Intel.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stu-Crossfire*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I also have a P8Z68-VPro/Gen 3 and have a problem with it that I hope you guys can help me with.
> If I have to shut down wiondows, it takes forever to post.
> The screen goes blank as usual, then the Asus Bios screen appears and it sits there doing nothing for between 3 and 4 minutes, then suddenly, hard disk light flashes and it loads windows up as fast as ever. usually about 10 seconds.
> I have tried resetting bios to defaults and it hasnt helped. Could this board have developed a fault?
> It was fine when I first got it, bar having a wierd sequence of booting three times, but that was fixed by disabling the marvel and and ESATA controllers.
> *Basic spec as follows:*
> i72600K
> 16GB DDR 3
> 2x 7970 in X-Fire.
> OCZ 240GB SSD
> XFX 1250w PSU
> Win 7 ultimate 64bit
> * I have made a seperate topic about this too *


Have you tried updating bios?


----------



## Stu-Crossfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Have you tried updating bios?


It shipped with the latest one installed (0402)


----------



## Br0k3nLiNk

Do i qualify?









Have to admit my upgrade, from an Asus P5N32e-SLi Plus with my Q6600 running at a reasonable 3.0GHz, was unreal. These new i5/i7's are rapid









Like the Z68 chipset too, hackintosh seems to work as a second OS.


----------



## Stu-Crossfire

New BIOS for P8Z68-V/GEN3 3101

1.Improve system stability.
2.Improve memory compatibility.
3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

*Enable support for Intel Next Gen 22nm Processor E1 stepping (available from BIOS 3012)


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I have the the v/gen3 model. Was going to go with the pro but did not want to pay extra for some of the nicer features. Main differences between the v and pro are the clear cmos button in the i/o panel. I have done many bad oc on the v model board and have never had to reset cmos. So I did not see the point in that. Also, the pro has the nice diagnostics read out that shows you a number that corrisponds to a boot process. This would be useful if you have bad hardware and are having issues posting. I took that gamble and so far have not needed it. Also, the pro came with a front USB 3.0 bracket. The v does not. My case has this already, so I did not need that. It also has a reset button on the PCB along with the Power button where as the v model only has the power button. Those where about the only differences. I am not sure about the LE model. I do not think it has pcie 3.0 support. Not sure on that. You need to also make sure you are getting the P8Z68P-V/Gen3 board and not just the regular P8Z68-V.
> Hope this helps....


Oh my God! I didn't know that there were differences between the -V and -V Pro in terms of the buttons in the motherboard itself. I Using the comparison sheet in ASUS' website, it only gave me the idea of more USB ports for the -V Pro and the included USB3.0 bracket. Had I known that there were extra buttons in the motherboard of the -V Pro, I would've gotten that board instead. Now I'm sad because I feel that the CMOS reset button is worth it


----------



## RedStapler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Now I'm sad...


----------



## Glottis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stu-Crossfire*
> 
> New BIOS for P8Z68-V/GEN3 3101
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Improve memory compatibility.
> 3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
> *Enable support for Intel Next Gen 22nm Processor E1 stepping (available from BIOS 3012)


Nice, also same update for PRO. Anyone flashed? I had some instabilities running my Corsair ram at 1600 (only 1333 was stable) maybe this will fix it.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh my God! I didn't know that there were differences between the -V and -V Pro in terms of the buttons in the motherboard itself. I Using the comparison sheet in ASUS' website, it only gave me the idea of more USB ports for the -V Pro and the included USB3.0 bracket. Had I known that there were extra buttons in the motherboard of the -V Pro, I would've gotten that board instead. Now I'm sad because I feel that the CMOS reset button is worth it


Yeah, but with this bios, it seems that you do not need it. In the past,with other mobos, I have needed it badly. Now, when it will not post, it restarts and then loads what seems to be the last stable bios settings. It is awesome.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Glottis*
> 
> Nice, also same update for PRO. Anyone flashed? I had some instabilities running my Corsair ram at 1600 (only 1333 was stable) maybe this will fix it.


Going to this week when I do my new build....


----------



## swarm87

hopefully i'll post a pic this weekend when i get a new phone as i just finished my build with a z68-v pro gen 3.

but right now im a little worried and wasn't sure if this was an issue with the uefi or the fan itself. my cpu cooler is a coolermaster hyper 212 evo with a stock fan that runs 600-2000RPM +/-10%. my fan is running at 575-589 rpms at stock clocks with 23c cpu temp @ idle, but i get a 4 beep post error about the fan speed is this just a uefi setting than i cna change or should i be worried and get a new fan?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swarm87*
> 
> hopefully i'll post a pic this weekend when i get a new phone as i just finished my build with a z68-v pro gen 3.
> but right now im a little worried and wasn't sure if this was an issue with the uefi or the fan itself. my cpu cooler is a coolermaster hyper 212 evo with a stock fan that runs 600-2000RPM +/-10%. my fan is running at 575-589 rpms at stock clocks with 23c cpu temp @ idle, but i get a 4 beep post error about the fan speed is this just a uefi setting than i cna change or should i be worried and get a new fan?


I think this is something you can change in the bios. I want to say it is under CPU config. There are fan profiles and the minimum is 600 RPM. I would switch it to 550. Check your max fan RPM and see how close it is to 2000 RPM, but the fan should be okay if you temps are good.


----------



## alancsalt

I think it's under "monitor" in the "Advanced" bios...well, that's where you can tell it to ignore cpu fan speed if you're water cooled anyway...


----------



## toblossomblue

I'll post a couple pics of my board.


Yes I know I have a bunch of colors running around, I am just happy it's running. I will re-do my attempt at cable management.
I'm also wondering about updating the BIOS to 3101. The only problem I have is the double post. In the Bios it says Revision B3. I'm setting up a FAT32 flash drive for screenshots.


----------



## Stu-Crossfire

Ok... the update... will leave it in here as well as other topic as it may one day save someone a real headache.
Was up until 3am messing around with this damned machine.

*Tried as follows.*


Various bios boot and speed settings.
Nothing connected but processor and 1 stick of ram.
Reset Bios With power off (Clr Jumper) so bios back to default.
Flash in new bios 3101
Strip Mobo of ram, CPU and Power connections to ensure connection integrity.
All failed.








As a last resort, I took the battery out of the mobo for 20mins even though the clrclk had been resetting the bios settings to default as expected.

Result = FIXED! Go figure? For whatever reason, the clrclk jumper was obviously NOT resetting the whole firmware and I must have had some form of corruption somewhere.

phew.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stu-Crossfire*
> 
> Ok... the update... will leave it in here as well as other topic as it may one day save someone a real headache.
> Was up until 3am messing around with this damned machine.
> *Tried as follows.*
> 
> Various bios boot and speed settings.
> Nothing connected but processor and 1 stick of ram.
> Reset Bios With power off (Clr Jumper) so bios back to default.
> Flash in new bios 3101
> Strip Mobo of ram, CPU and Power connections to ensure connection integrity.
> All failed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a last resort, I took the battery out of the mobo for 20mins even though the clrclk had been resetting the bios settings to default as expected.
> Result = FIXED! Go figure? For whatever reason, the clrclk jumper was obviously NOT resetting the whole firmware and I must have had some form of corruption somewhere.
> phew.


It throws the memory timing settings way off. It has happened to me on my Deluxe Gen 3 here that I'm running on now. I haven't seen a single BIOS update yet here.


----------



## ROKA

Hi Everyone!! I recently bought GTX560TI MSI Twin Frozer II and P8z68 Deluxe Gen/3 MB. I love the performance and quality that it gives me, however I have been facing couple problem with the graphics. When I am using computer for web browsing and even when it's idle, the screen gets distorted out of all the sudden. When this happens I can't control my computer and I end up turning the power off to reboot. I built this new pc 2 month ago, and this distortion problem happened about 8 times. I dont know if its a graphic card problem or motherboard problem.

I would appreciate some help. Thanks for reading. Good day brothas!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROKA*
> 
> Hi Everyone!! I recently bought GTX560TI MSI Twin Frozer II and P8z68 Deluxe Gen/3 MB. I love the performance and quality that it gives me, however I have been facing couple problem with the graphics. When I am using computer for web browsing and even when it's idle, the screen gets distorted out of all the sudden. When this happens I can't control my computer and I end up turning the power off to reboot. I built this new pc 2 month ago, and this distortion problem happened about 8 times. I dont know if its a graphic card problem or motherboard problem.
> 
> I would appreciate some help. Thanks for reading. Good day brothas!


Did you delete all old drivers and do a clean GPU driver install? Did you overclock the GPU any? If you did a clean driver install and did not overclock then Check temps of the card to see if its overheating. After that I would start thinking about RMA'ing the card.


----------



## shad0wfax

That looks like either a bad video card or perhaps a bad PCIe slot. The latter is highly unlikely. I think that you're looking at a video card RMA as posted above.


----------



## ROKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Did you delete all old drivers and do a clean GPU driver install? Did you overclock the GPU any? If you did a clean driver install and did not overclock then Check temps of the card to see if its overheating. After that I would start thinking about RMA'ing the card.


Yes I did a reinstall on GPU drivers and No I have not overclocked my GPU. The temp is idle 37 and max 69. I think I I should RMA the card. thanks for your opinion.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROKA*
> 
> Yes I did a reinstall on GPU drivers and No I have not overclocked my GPU. The temp is idle 37 and max 69. I think I I should RMA the card. thanks for your opinion.


Yea, I think RMA would be the best bet. That sucks man sorry to hear that.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Have you tried to re-seat the card in it's slot or try a different one just to eliminate the fact it could be your motherboard. Possibly even try the card in a different machine first so you can really narrow down the issue. Believe it or not a lot of price increases on computer products is RMA's that aren't necessary. It has been years and several generations of video cards ago but I saw similar looking distortion on my screen and it was the back part of my card that wasn't down in the slot all the way.


----------



## psikofunkster

Please i need help from the experts!

First of all i don't overclock i don't know how to do it and i've never done it.

I have an issue with my P8P67 PRO (Rev 3.1). Mouse (wireless) but mainly keyboard (wired) (both Microsoft) are not detected during the cold boot from time to time, i suspect the BIOS is the one to blame i have the latest version, what can i do?

Both are USB.

Please help! is the MOBO faulty?

Also when i turn on the PC from time to time a long beep takes place and a message during posting (no keyboard detected). Sometimes happens sometimes not.

PS/2 ports didn't work for me, when im using them NOTHING gets recognized (and yes i turned off the PC before plugging them).


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikofunkster*
> 
> Please i need help from the experts!
> First of all i don't overclock i don't know how to do it and i've never done it.
> I have an issue with my P8P67 PRO (Rev 3.1). Mouse (wireless) but mainly keyboard (wired) (both Microsoft) are not detected during the cold boot from time to time, i suspect the BIOS is the one to blame i have the latest version, what can i do?
> Both are USB.
> Please help! is the MOBO faulty?
> Also when i turn on the PC from time to time a long beep takes place and a message during posting (no keyboard detected). Sometimes happens sometimes not.
> PS/2 ports didn't work for me, when im using them NOTHING gets recognized (and yes i turned off the PC before plugging them).


Have you updated the drivers?


----------



## psikofunkster

yes, however the issue happens during the cold boot (POST) not later.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikofunkster*
> 
> yes, however the issue happens during the cold boot (POST) not later.


What BIOS revision are you on? It may be as simple as updating your BIOS, depending on what changes have been made.

Another thing to check out are the USB settings in your Asus BIOS. Let me get you a screenshot.


----------



## psikofunkster

currently I have the latest 2103 yesterday i gave a try to the prior one....same results.

Im seriously thinking about buying another MOBO, maybe the P8Z68 V PRo (GEN3)? or should i try another brand?

BTW im having the same issue with two mobos same model same revision.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikofunkster*
> 
> currently I have the latest 2103 yesterday i gave a try to the prior one....same results.
> 
> Im seriously thinking about buying another MOBO, maybe the P8Z68 V PRo (GEN3)? or should i try another brand?
> 
> BTW im having the same issue with two mobos same model same revision.


Here's the screenshot for the USB configuration. Check to make sure yours is the same.


----------



## psikofunkster

Hi Shadow, sadly is exactly the same (default one).


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikofunkster*
> 
> Hi Shadow, sadly is exactly the same (default one).


Crap. Have you tried moving the USB devices to a different USB port (perhaps a different Root Hub?)

Also, I just re-read your post and saw that you mentioned an intermittent issue with long beeps in the BIOS. Tell me more about that single long beep you get in the POST sometimes. Is it a continuous long beep or is it a single long beep followed by a single short beep?

If it's a continuous beep, it could be a power supply issue, a short, or a loose expansion card. If it's a long beep followed by a short beep it could be an issue with the motherboard itself.

You may actually have a power supply problem or a short between your motherboard and the case. (Maybe a bad stand-off?)


----------



## psikofunkster

No, i haven't tried another hub but i've tried the USB3.0 ports....same results.

It's a short beep message appears: "No Keyboard Detected".

The strange thing is that the same issue happens with other mobo (same model) different case, PSU, mouse and keyboard. The PS/2 ports (keyboard and mouse) doesnt' work (when they're plugged).


----------



## KuuFA

which ports are you using? I found that only the top ports for my board boot with bios the other 2 near the NIC don't work lol...


----------



## psikofunkster

Port 1 USB 2.0 for keyboard
Port 2 USB 2.0 for mouse.

If i use the PS/2 ports nothing gets recognized.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikofunkster*
> 
> Port 1 USB 2.0 for keyboard
> Port 2 USB 2.0 for mouse.
> 
> If i use the PS/2 ports nothing gets recognized.


Huh... Do you have any spare PS/2 or USB keyboards or mice laying around that you can test with? It'd be a shame to RMA the motherboards if the real culprits are your keyboard and mouse themselves. On the other hand, if it happens with the other keyboards and mice, it could be an issue with the motherboard or potentially a short in your rear I/O panel mount.

Honestly, I suspect the mouse/keyboard, given that it happened with two different motherboards.


----------



## psikofunkster

Well it happened with two different motherboards but the mice and the keyboards were different too....



my guess is that the mobos are faulty or is a BIOS issue.

Do you think i will have the same issues with the P8z68-V PRO/GEN3? what about the Intel DZ68BC or the EVGA Z68 SLI? i'm not rich but i can't think in something else to resolve my problem.

The sandy bridge issue....the revision boards.... all these issues makes me suspect about my problem...


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikofunkster*
> 
> Well it happened with two different motherboards but the mice and the keyboards were different too....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I hid your pic in a spoiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my guess is that the mobos are faulty or is a BIOS issue.
> 
> Do you think i will have the same issues with the P8z68-V PRO/GEN3? what about the Intel DZ68BC or the EVGA Z68 SLI?


Alright, if it's happening with other USB devices and other motherboards... I guess it's probably the board. That stinks. 

The Z68 Pros have a great reputation. EVGA has always had an excellent reputation for their graphics and my guess is that they make a very solid motherboard too. I have no personal experience with EVGA motherboards, but I've heard good things. I'd pick between the Asus Pro and the Evga.


----------



## psikofunkster

OK, thanks, think im gonna try to find tomorrow that z68 model...


----------



## -SE7EN-

add me in. p8z68-v gen3


----------



## RedStapler

Please add!









Officially...

OH, and if it isn't obvious, it's a P8Z68-V/Gen3


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedStapler*
> 
> Please add!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Officially...


I want 3 GB of video RAM on my 580 also! Boohoo!

Heh. Well, at least I've got a nice clocking 580.


----------



## RedStapler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> I want 3 GB of video RAM on my 580 also! Boohoo!
> 
> Heh. Well, at least I've got a nice clocking 580.


It is insane. *every* setting on Batman Arkham City at max runs beautifully smoothly at 1900x1200. Very wonderful card. I bought the pre-overclocked one for an extra fifty - yes, I realize that was totally unnecessary. The regular one wasn't in stock the day I ordered and I wasn't gonna wait.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedStapler*
> 
> It is insane. *every* setting on Batman Arkham City at max runs beautifully smoothly at 1900x1200. Very wonderful card. I bought the pre-overclocked one for an extra fifty - yes, I realize that was totally unnecessary. The regular one wasn't in stock the day I ordered and I wasn't gonna wait.





Spoiler: Not quite on topic with motherboards, so hiding my response in a spoiler!



It wasn't a waste for you, actually. The Ultra Classifieds are hand-binned for performance / overclock potential. They're a cut above the Classifieds. I don't own Batman AC, but I'm able to play BF3 on ultra at 1920x1200 and I rip through Skyrim seamlessly even with a ton of mods and more ugrids and draw distance.

I'm waiting to see what the kepler cards are like on release. If they're good and they overclock well, I'll buy a kepler with 3 GB of RAM and sell my current GTX 580. If they don't perform as well as I'd like, I'll buy a GTX 580 Ultra Classified, like you did, and sell this 580. I'm folding stable at 934.5 MHz core / 1869 MHz shader / 2138 MHz memory / 1.150V / 75C and I'm gaming stable up at 962 / 1924 / 2277 / 1.150 but I'd really like to have 3 GB of RAM on the card. The price has come down considerably already. The other option would be to wait until the second phase of Kepler cards come out.



Oh yeah, this is a motherboard thread.









My motherboard can easily handle a dual or triple SLI... Maybe I'll SLI two 580 3GB cards or two high-memory keplers!


----------



## toblossomblue

Well I decided to update my Bios anyway. The mobo voltages would not stay stable. They kept swinging back and fourth from 127 to 27 back again, after the update it seemed to stop being wild. This must of been the stability issue mentioned in the changelog. After the Bios update my CPU seemed to get 2-3 degrees hotter. The temps before were 35-36c and after update went to 38-39c


----------



## selluminis

Finally got my system back together. Now, it keeps stopping when it makes the boot device check. Nothing has changed from when I took it a part. I have a ssd connected to the sata3. I have tried everything. Different cables, tried connecting to different sata Ports, even the sata2. Even if I unplug it still does not work. It will not make it past the boot device check.

update, the problem is it is not detecting a fan connected to the CPU fan connector. This is not letting me boot past bios. How do I disable that?

NM, figured it out. Had to tell the system monitor to ignore the CPU fan.


----------



## KingT

Asus has removed *Additional Turbo Voltage option* from new *3101 BIOS* for *P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3* !!!

CHEERS..


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Asus has removed *Additional Turbo Voltage option* from new *3101 BIOS* for *P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3* !!!
> CHEERS..


What fore? glad I have not updated yet.


----------



## munaim1

*Apologies to all for awaiting entry to 'club' I have been quite busy lately and not had the chance to add everyone. I will be making some changes to the OP, rather than manually adding each and everyone (which can be a daunting task at times) I have opted for something much simpler, a spreadsheet where you fill in the form and enter your own details. this is currently in progress and should hopefully be working by the end of the weekend.









I will however be reviewing the entries to make sure that you have followed the rules, those that haven't will be removed.

Thank you.*


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> *Apologies to all for awaiting entry to 'club' I have been quite busy lately and not had the chance to add everyone. I will be making some changes to the OP, rather than manually adding each and everyone (which can be a daunting task at times) I have opted for something much simpler, a spreadsheet where you fill in the form and enter your own details. this is currently in progress and should hopefully be working by the end of the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will however be reviewing the entries to make sure that you have followed the rules, those that haven't will be removed.
> Thank you.*


What are the proper rules? I hadnt seen them when I looked.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Thought it might be helpful to you guys to post a BIOS template on my 4.7Ghz run.
Here is the link. It's posted in the Sandy Stable thread.

Please feel free to ask me anything and I'm also up for suggestions. I'm sure there is room for fine tuning.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Asus has removed *Additional Turbo Voltage option* from new *3101 BIOS* for *P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3* !!!
> CHEERS..


ASUS just put another one up today, 3201

*edit*

its 3202 for the PRO/Gen 3, and 3201 for the V/GEN3


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> ASUS just put another one up today, 3201
> *edit*
> its 3202 for the PRO/Gen 3, and 3201 for the V/GEN3


Dose this new bios put it back? not going to upgrade if I dont have to as my stability has been perfect so far.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> ASUS just put another one up today, 3201
> *edit*
> its 3202 for the PRO/Gen 3, and 3201 for the V/GEN3
> 
> 
> 
> Dose this new bios put it back? not going to upgrade if I dont have to as my stability has been perfect so far.
Click to expand...

I didn't update to the latest WS Revo BIOS either. My system works great where it is and there are no changes in the new BIOS that make it worth updating for, so I will not update. I've been bitten by over-eager BIOS updates before and I won't make that mistake again.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> I didn't update to the latest WS Revo BIOS either. My system works great where it is and there are no changes in the new BIOS that make it worth updating for, so I will not update. *I've been bitten by over-eager BIOS updates before and I won't make that mistake again*.


If it ain't broke don't try to fix it.


----------



## Jayjr1105

P8Z68-V-GEN3 BIOS 3201
1.Improve system stability.

2.Improve memory compatibility.

3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

* Enable support for Intel Next Gen 22nm Processor E1 stepping MP version CPU (available from BIOS 3012).

They really do make it tempting "more stability this, improved compatibility that" but I think I'm going with the "if it's not broke, don't fix it" policy


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> P8Z68-V-GEN3 BIOS 3201
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 
> 2.Improve memory compatibility.
> 
> 3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
> 
> * Enable support for Intel Next Gen 22nm Processor E1 stepping MP version CPU (available from BIOS 3012).
> 
> They really do make it tempting "more stability this, improved compatibility that" but I think I'm going with the "if it's not broke, don't fix it" policy


I hate it when they are deliberately vague like that. Obviously, if you have memory that's not on the QVL for the first BIOS version but is on the QVL for the updated BIOS, then going with the newer BIOS might be useful. Obviously, if you're buying a SBe or IB CPU then the BIOS update would be useful.

But "Improve system stability." HOW? Specifically what was changed and in what circumstances is stability improved? That's the kind of thing that annoys me and makes me feel the same as you do; if it ain't broke don't fix it.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stu-Crossfire*
> 
> Ok... the update... will leave it in here as well as other topic as it may one day save someone a real headache.
> Was up until 3am messing around with this damned machine.
> *Tried as follows.*
> 
> Various bios boot and speed settings.
> Nothing connected but processor and 1 stick of ram.
> Reset Bios With power off (Clr Jumper) so bios back to default.
> Flash in new bios 3101
> Strip Mobo of ram, CPU and Power connections to ensure connection integrity.
> All failed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a last resort, I took the battery out of the mobo for 20mins even though the clrclk had been resetting the bios settings to default as expected.
> Result = FIXED! Go figure? For whatever reason, the clrclk jumper was obviously NOT resetting the whole firmware and I must have had some form of corruption somewhere.
> phew.


I'm running into something similar, successfully updated to 3201, cleared CMOS before and after. Board would boot to bios 1st time only, then loops over and over if a graphics card is installed (never makes it to the bios). Boots to windows using the onboard iGPU, but still won't enter the bios setup again (delete key does nothing).

Tried to go back to the 0301, says that bios is outdated, so went to the 3101, cleared and defaults before and after, but same issues as 3201. I've never had a single issue with bios updates before from ASUS, but this is bad. Looks like I'm using the iGPU until I can get a replacement board. Unless someone knows a trick to get it back to 0301 where I had no bios problems.


----------



## DavidEngel

Add me please


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> I'm running into something similar, successfully updated to 3201, cleared CMOS before and after. Board would boot to bios 1st time only, then loops over and over if a graphics card is installed (never makes it to the bios). Boots to windows using the onboard iGPU, but still won't enter the bios setup again (delete key does nothing).
> 
> Tried to go back to the 0301, says that bios is outdated, so went to the 3101, cleared and defaults before and after, but same issues as 3201. I've never had a single issue with bios updates before from ASUS, but this is bad. *Looks like I'm using the iGPU until I can get a replacement board. Unless someone knows a trick to get it back to 0301 where I had no bios problems.*


Revert / Downgrade to older BIOS Asus motherboard: This works; I've done it before.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629404

EDIT: I used a better link that is more up to date.

EDIT 2: *DO NOT BE OVERCLOCKED WHEN FLASHING THE BIOS, ESPECIALLY USING THE AI SUITE FROM WITHIN THE WINDOWS OS.*

Unfortunately, there's no way around using the AI Suite II for this method. Most of us dislike the AI Suite II and it's usually a bad idea to flash a BIOS from within windows. But in this case, the AI Suite II OS level BIOS flash saves our bacon.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> Revert / Downgrade to older BIOS Asus motherboard: This works; I've done it before.
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629404


Thanks for the link, I figured it would take a workaround since they updated the ME firmware version from 3101 on...

Some others are experiencing the exact same issues, just a warning:

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=1&model=P8Z68-V%20PRO/GEN3&id=20120221233443634&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

I may wait a bit to see if ASUS resolves the issues. This isn't my only rig, and this is the board with a defective PCIe x16_1 slot anyway. My luck the newer bios would have an issue with having the only graphics card in the PCIe x16_2 slot, lol.

*edit*
more on the ME version issue:

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?s=14960286a4062043135585f9a99301f0&p=1038424489&postcount=5331


----------



## LukaTCE

Asus don't send bios chip for free ?? how bad support from asus is that ? (so gigabyte dual bios is best ?)
I didn't had any problem updating from 0301 to 3101 to 3201 loaded defualt from usb in case maybe u had in usb3 ?


----------



## EVILNOK

Add me to the club please. I have the ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN 3. 0301 BIOS work fine so I won't update just yet. Just got all my parts and got everything put together a few days ago:


----------



## KingT

LoL Asus has put out two BIOS versions in just few days for P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3..

I see that a lot of people ended up with bad flash or some sort of problem when updating to 3101 version (Luckily not me,I had no problems)..

Also Asus has *removed Additional Turbo voltage* option from 3101 version which is really stupid..

I won't be upgrading to *3202 BIOS* just yet,since I have no need for it, I will wait for later versions..

CHEERS..


----------



## wickedout

I guess this is the thread I need to master my mobo for overclocking. So I'm in as of today! Vcore is a little high for me but I'm still trying to master that soon enough once I learn the bios! Thanks!


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I guess this is the thread I need to master my mobo for overclocking. So I'm in as of today! Vcore is a little high for me but I'm still trying to master that soon enough once I learn the bios! Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I hid your picture in a spoiler link.


If you aren't trying to overclock your RAM deliberately, then I would start by reducing BCLK to 100. You could probably increase your multiplier to 47 with the same settings and still be stable. The K sku Sandys don't really need any kind of a BCLK tweak unless you're trying to tweak your memory.

Did you come to these settings with the AI Suite II or one of the automated BIOS level overclock features? If so, then there's probably room for improvement in the multiplier and/or a reduction in core voltage.

1.400V seems awfully high for 4.6-4.7 GHz, but it's not going to hurt the board and every CPU is different; that might just be what yours requires but most of the Ks seem to be OK at 4.6 to 4.7 at lower core voltages. 1.36 to 1.38 is probably more "average" at those clock speeds.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> If you aren't trying to overclock your RAM deliberately, then I would start by reducing BCLK to 100. You could probably increase your multiplier to 47 with the same settings and still be stable. The K sku Sandys don't really need any kind of a BCLK tweak unless you're trying to tweak your memory.
> 
> Did you come to these settings with the AI Suite II or one of the automated BIOS level overclock features? If so, then there's probably room for improvement in the multiplier and/or a reduction in core voltage.
> 
> 1.400V seems awfully high for 4.6-4.7 GHz, but it's not going to hurt the board and every CPU is different; that might just be what yours requires but most of the Ks seem to be OK at 4.6 to 4.7 at lower core voltages. 1.36 to 1.38 is probably more "average" at those clock speeds.


How do you lower the core voltages? I'll lower my BCLK to 100. All I did was increase my multiplier.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> How do you lower the core voltages? I'll my BCLK to 100. All I did was increase my multiplier.


Ah, so you're on automatic settings.

Well, there are several tips and tricks that seem to help many. You are welcome to look at the link to my BIOS profile to see what worked for me. The values that you use may need to be different to work for you.

On your Asus board, here are the recommended starting points for key items:

VRM Frequency: Manual

VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350 kHz

Phase Control: Extreme

Duty Control: Extreme

CPU Current Capability: 140% (yes, it's a "red" value, no it won't hurt your system)

CPU Voltage: Offset Mode (Or manual mode if you prefer not to allow your voltages to reduce at lower frequencies by using enhanced intel speedstep mode)

CPU Offset Voltage: (Somewhere between -0.030 and +0.030 V is usually good here. You adjust this until your idle voltage at 1.6 GHz is as low as possible without giving you blue screens. Somewhere between 0.900V and 1.100V is usually good for an idle voltage.)

Then go to the CPU Power Management area.

Additional Turbo Voltage: (Change from Auto to some value manually so that your voltage at load is as low as possible without causing blue screens. This may take quite a bit of tweaking to get to.)

Lastly, there's the LLC, or Load Line Calibration. I would say that for a 4.6 to 4.7 GHz overclock that this should probably be Medium or High in your PC. The lower the value the better. If you can use Regular (which is no LLC) that's ideal, but you may not be able to.

Increasing LLC will cause all of your voltages and temperatures at load to increase, so as you increase LLC you'll need to decrease the positive offset voltage (or increase the value of the negative offset voltage) and decrease the amount of additional turbo voltage so that your target voltage at-load is the stable value and that your idle voltage is the same as your previous stable value. How much LLC to use depends on how much voltage "droop" you are getting at load vs how much voltage overshoot is happening during load transients.

Sometimes VCCIO requires a slight bump to keep memory stable.

The other manually set voltages you see in my profile, such as reduced CPU PLL voltage, are tweaks I made after I got stable and they simply lowered my temperatures some but were not critical to overclock stability.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> LoL Asus has put out two BIOS versions in just few days for P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3..
> I see that a lot of people ended up with bad flash or some sort of problem when updating to 3101 version (Luckily not me,I had no problems)..
> Also Asus has *removed Additional Turbo voltage* option from 3101 version which is really stupid..
> I won't be upgrading to *3202 BIOS* just yet,since I have no need for it, I will wait for later versions..
> CHEERS..


We know they removed it, did they add it back with the other BIOS version though?


----------



## wickedout

When I start up my rig it gives me an error about not having any cpu fan. When I have my H100 right on top of the CPU. How do you get rid of that error?


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> When I start up my rig it gives me an error about not having any cpu fan. When I have my H100 right on top of the CPU. How do you get rid of that error?


In the Bios(advanced). where you monitor the speed of your Fans, on the CPU fan, select Disabled or N/A


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norlig*
> 
> In the Bios(advanced). where you monitor the speed of your Fans, on the CPU fan, select Disabled or N/A


No go on that. Still showed up in start up boot. The only things that could be disabled were CPU-Q fan control/Chassis Q fan control. Thanks anyways!


----------



## EVILNOK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> No go on that. Still showed up in start up boot. The only things that could be disabled were CPU-Q fan control/Chassis Q fan control. Thanks anyways!


I had that just today. In advanced in the UEFI go to monitor. About halfway down it was CPU fan lower limit or minimum limit, can't remember exactly. I set mine to 500. It was at 600 and my fan RPM was 596rpm on start up so I got the error. Once I set it to 500 I haven't had any issues. Or you can just disable it altogether. Check to see what your CPU fan is spinning at on start up and just lower the limit to something below that.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVILNOK*
> 
> I had that just today. In advanced in the UEFI go to monitor. About halfway down it was CPU fan lower limit or minimum limit, can't remember exactly. I set mine to 500. It was at 600 and my fan RPM was 596rpm on start up so I got the error. Once I set it to 500 I haven't had any issues. Or you can just disable it altogether. Check to see what your CPU fan is spinning at on start up and just lower the limit to something below that.


But the thing is I have no fans connected to my mobo. I have a H100 and those fan speeds are connected to the Corsair.


----------



## EVILNOK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> But the thing is I have no fans connected to my mobo. I have a H100 and those fan speeds are connected to the Corsair.


Did you try it after selecting disable under CPU fan lower limit? It seems like that should work as it wouldn't detect if a fan is spinning or not.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> But the thing is I have no fans connected to my mobo. I have a H100 and those fan speeds are connected to the Corsair.


In UEFI bios, under Monitor, CPU Fan Speed, set to Ignore.


----------



## ZeGermans750

Hey everyone, registered just to ask this question:
Will this RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231315
Fit with a Noctua NH-D14 on this board? Thanks for any help!


----------



## EVILNOK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeGermans750*
> 
> Hey everyone, registered just to ask this question:
> Will this RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231315
> Fit with a Noctua NH-D14 on this board? Thanks for any help!






Heres another on a p67 ASrock board and they fit:


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeGermans750*
> 
> Hey everyone, registered just to ask this question:
> Will this RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231315
> Fit with a Noctua NH-D14 on this board? Thanks for any help!


It should just fine. I use the silver arrow (similar size to D-14) this board and ripjaws. fit's fine.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> In UEFI bios, under Monitor, CPU Fan Speed, set to Ignore.


Fixed. Now it goes to my post and then my sign on screen. I don't even see the American Megatrends anymore. How do I make the ASUS post screen appear longer then a 1 second?


----------



## psikofunkster

Guys with all due respect your video cards are crazy!! me i still have my old 9500GT.....







of course i'm not a gamer.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> In UEFI bios, under Monitor, CPU Fan Speed, set to Ignore.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed. Now it goes to my post and then my sign on screen. I don't even see the American Megatrends anymore. How do I make the ASUS post screen appear longer then a 1 second?
Click to expand...

Go in the advanced mode of your bios to the boot tab set the logo screen to disabled then change the default 5sec for the post to appear. Some slow starting monitors fail to display the post but for a brief sec as you suggest. Try extending the time or even setting it to stop there until you press the escape key. GL


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Go in the advanced mode of your bios to the boot tab set the logo screen to disabled then change the default 5sec for the post to appear. Some slow starting monitors fail to display the post but for a brief sec as you suggest. Try extending the time or even setting it to stop there until you press the escape key. GL


I have disable the ASUS full screen now. Now it works and gives me a little time to decide to hit the bios or pass on it. Thanks again.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> *Apologies to all for awaiting entry to 'club' I have been quite busy lately and not had the chance to add everyone. I will be making some changes to the OP, rather than manually adding each and everyone (which can be a daunting task at times) I have opted for something much simpler, a spreadsheet where you fill in the form and enter your own details. this is currently in progress and should hopefully be working by the end of the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will however be reviewing the entries to make sure that you have followed the rules, those that haven't will be removed.
> 
> Thank you.*


In the process of adding a spreadsheet in the OP where member's can add themselves, it will almost be identical to what I have done with Turricans other threads here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1051733/the-official-intel-core-i5-2500k-i5-2550k-i7-2600k-i7-2700k-amd-buttkickers-owners-club
http://www.overclock.net/t/1051664/the-official-corsair-vengeance-owners-club

Unfortunately this one is taking a little longer than expected, hopefully should be done later tonight. Thank you all for your patience.


----------



## porksmuggler

I'm leaving this here for others having issues with the P8Z68 series and certain video cards. I've sent ASUS the following, just waiting for a reply:

_All BIOS settings optimal default, NO OC ever.

BIOS 0301 - 4850X2 in PCIe x16_1 results in BSOD. 4850X2 in PCIe x16_2 functions correctly.

BIOS 3201 - 4850X2 in either PCIe x16_1 or PCIe x16_2, PC will not post (boot loop). iGPU and other discrete GPUs function correctly.

4850X2 functions correctly in all other systems._

It seems to be a problem with the PCIe implementation or a compatibility issue, though I'm not ruling out defective motherboards. Here are several other threads mentioning video cards that function correctly on other boards, but do not on this series:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/332865-33-asus-p8z68-gen3-detect-asus-hd6950-dcii
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/302466-30-p8z68-detect-sapphire-6850
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20120115023503820&board_id=1&model=P8Z68-V%2fGEN3&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
http://www.overclock.net/t/1208640/asus-p8z68-v-pro-gen3-wont-post-with-dedicated-gpu


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Please Ignore the Date/Year on the pictures. Everytime i change the batteries i have to reset date and got lazy last time.
Would like to Join. I have a :
Mobo = Asus Z68 Deluxe Gen3
Ram = Vegenance 16Gb (4 x 4Gb) at 1600 (1.5v) (C. Lat. = 9. 9. 9. 24
CPU = Intel I7 2700k (Currently at stock 3.5Ghz at 1.12 v but will get to overclocking later
HDD = Western Dig. Cav. Black. 500 Gb internall SATA III 6Gb/s / 32 cache. (also have 2 - 2Tb Western Dig. External Hard Drives for storage)
Case = NZXT Phantom (new model with usb 3.0 etc..)
GPU = EVGA Hydro Copper 2 GTX 580 (3Gb)
PSU = Silent Pro Gold Series 1200W Modular
Vantec Nexstar SE Dual SSD Front Bay Holder (soon to get 2 SSD for it)
Lambtron FC 2 6 Channel Fan Controller (one of the only ones that will control the Scyther 5400rpm fans properlly)
SOON TO BE ADDED: Antec Veris Elite Multimedia station thingy.
LiteOn BlueRay Burner
LG DVD burner
1 UV Light

Cooling:

Dazmode STORM D5 VARIO 8-24V Pump
Black Ice GT Stealth 360 Radiator - Blue
EK-CoolStream RAD XTC (140) - Single 140mm Radiator
Feser Tube UV Hose - 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD - White - UV Blue
All fittings are Bitspower Fittings 1/2" ID - 3/4"OD
Koolance CPU-370 Performace CPU Water Block
(3of them)Scythe Gentle Typhoon Black Edition 5400RPM 150.1CFM @ 50db Fan
FrozenQ Fusion Reservoir Rev.6 UV Blue - 250mm
Fluid XP+ Ultra Non-Conductive 32 oz. Liquid Cooling Fluid - UV Invisible Blue
BGears B-Blaster 140mm x 25mm 1800RPM High Speed Fan
NZXT Sentry 2 5.25" Fan Controller / Touch Display / Temperature Monitor - Black (not using anymore as need 30-35+ Watts per a channel for Scythe 5400rpm fans. this only has 10

Also bought already and soon to add XSPC 360 Performace rad to my loop.

This is the first computer i've ever built let alone a liquid cooled one.
let me know what you think.
Temps so far (haven't tweeked yet) 27*C idle for CPU and mobo is 26*C (Ambient room temp is 24) 100%load temp = 55 forcpu and 30 for mobo
can't wait to add the new thick rad to it.

Cheers. Lucky13.










Roll'em high, shoot'em low.


----------



## munaim1

*UPDATE TO CLUB*

*
Few hours later, I managed to transfer all the entries from the OP into a spreadsheet I managed to complete it. After submitting an entry with the form, the spreadsheet will update automatically and entries will go into correct sheet according to Motherboard type. Pretty self explanatory







*

The following info will be added to the OP:
Quote:


> *Kindly post your validation / proof here FIRST then fill in the FORM and link the post as proof.*
> 
> *Right click and copy link address of your post:
> 
> *
> 
> *Should be something like this http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/6560#post_16560723. Alternatively post a CPU-Z validation but make sure it is the same as your OCN username.*


*Spreadsheet should be available in the next couple of minutes*









*EDIT:*

Finally All done









I will change the colour and stuff later on, spruce it up a little but for now we have a working spreadsheet!!!!


----------



## Geeboi

Heres mine



old pic of when i was building


----------



## jhebi

Could someone help me with the settings on Mb: P8Z68-V LX, so the boot process doesn't lag.

It takes forever to windows 7 to come out.

I have boot option to my hard drive, but still take so long to restart my pc

Thanks


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhebi*
> 
> Could someone help me with the settings on Mb: P8Z68-V LX, so the boot process doesn't lag.
> It takes forever to windows 7 to come out.
> I have boot option to my hard drive, but still take so long to restart my pc
> Thanks


More information is need to help you. Please fill out your rig information as well so others may get you the information that you require.


----------



## Norlig

Seems my submission isnt in the updated sheet, so here is a new validation











pictures in Signature


----------



## alancsalt

Well, Munaim1 is looking after the thread for Turrican9, but I don't know if he'd have access to the first page to do member updates. I suspect you may have to wait for the return of turrican9 for that.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Well, Munaim1 is looking after the thread for Turrican9, but I don't know if he'd have access to the first page to do member updates. I suspect you may have to wait for the return of turrican9 for that.


I do have the ability to edit the OP, however I have been very very busy these last few weeks and have not had a chance to add members to the original list. I have indeed made some changes to the OP and have added a form and a spreadsheet where members can easily add themselves. More info is available in my previous post:

Quote:


> *Update to club*
> 
> *
> After a few hours later, I managed to transfer all the entries from the OP into a spreadsheet I managed to complete it. After submitting an entry with the form, the spreadsheet will update automatically and entries will go into correct sheet according to Motherboard type. Pretty self explanatory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> The following info will be added to the OP:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Kindly post your validation / proof here FIRST then fill in the FORM and link the post as proof.*
> 
> *Right click and copy link address of your post:
> 
> *
> 
> *Should be something like this http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/6560#post_16560723. Alternatively post a CPU-Z validation but make sure it is the same as your OCN username.*
> 
> 
> 
> I will change the colour and stuff later on, spruce it up a little but for now we have a working spreadsheet!!!!
Click to expand...


----------



## wickedout

Hi everyone. This board is very solid. Pretty glad I got it.

The only thing I don't like is I truly believe all boards over $175 should have a CMOS/Reset button on them. I mean come on, you pay a premium for a good solid product so the company producing them should be able to add some of those features that make the experience way worth it.

Great board otherwise. Doesn't have the bells and sexiness as my ASRock E4 G3 had.

Here's a photo shot of the board in my rig!


----------



## jhebi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> More information is need to help you. Please fill out your rig information as well so others may get you the information that you require.


I just finished building my pc

Case : Coolmaster Storm
CPU: i7 2600K
Mb: P8Z68-V LX
Video Card: HD6850 Radeon
Power Supply: OCZ ZS series 550W
Memory: 16GB DDR3-1333 (PC3-10600) CL9 U-DIMM (Crucial Ballistix)
Hard Drive: OCZ Agility 3 120GB

This is my build, thanks


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhebi*
> 
> I just finished building my pc
> Case : Coolmaster Storm
> CPU: i7 2600K
> Mb: P8Z68-V LX
> Video Card: HD6850 Radeon
> Power Supply: OCZ ZS series 550W
> Memory: 16GB DDR3-1333 (PC3-10600) CL9 U-DIMM (Crucial Ballistix)
> Hard Drive: OCZ Agility 3 120GB
> This is my build, thanks


With those components you must have set something up incorrectly because you should be inside windows very fast. Take a look at Sean's SSD setup guide and see if that helps you out on that end.

If it is taking forever from the on button to get past the post then you have a bios setup that is incorrect and it is searching for things that are not present.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> I do have the ability to edit the OP, however I have been very very busy these last few weeks and have not had a chance to add members to the original list. I have indeed made some changes to the OP and have added a form and a spreadsheet where members can easily add themselves. More info is available in my previous post:


Good trick. I won't ask 'cause I've got enough to update already.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhebi*
> 
> I just finished building my pc
> Case : Coolmaster Storm
> CPU: i7 2600K
> Mb: P8Z68-V LX
> Video Card: HD6850 Radeon
> Power Supply: OCZ ZS series 550W
> Memory: 16GB DDR3-1333 (PC3-10600) CL9 U-DIMM (Crucial Ballistix)
> Hard Drive: OCZ Agility 3 120GB
> This is my build, thanks


Feed that into rigbuilder, top right of this page, then go to your signature in the "My Profile" page (link is up top) and add the list you created in Rigbuilder to your sig. That way everyone can always check what you have as the posts roll on, and you post in other threads...


----------



## swarm87

i have a emi stupid qiestion. i have a esata/usb2.0 capable external hard drive would it be better to use the included internal to esata adapter(i have a few still open on the motherboard) to use the z68 chipset sata controller or should i use the esata port already on the motherboard?


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swarm87*
> 
> i have a emi stupid qiestion. i have a esata/usb2.0 capable external hard drive would it be better to use the included internal to esata adapter(i have a few still open on the motherboard) to use the z68 chipset sata controller or should i use the esata port already on the motherboard?


It's not going to make much of a difference. You are talking microseconds in difference that you would never in your lifetime distinguish. If your cabling around the motherboard port is cluttered and it would be neater to use an adapter from the internal port go for it but then again you will have an unsightly cable that is hard to hide because they are rarely long enough to do properly.

My personal choice here would be to use the built in port in the back unless you need it for some odd reason connected to your front case. I use mine in the rear and actually only turn it on when I need to access those drives because they will also draw power from your PSU.


----------



## SunSonik

Hi! Can i join to the club?


----------



## swarm87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> It's not going to make much of a difference. You are talking microseconds in difference that you would never in your lifetime distinguish. If your cabling around the motherboard port is cluttered and it would be neater to use an adapter from the internal port go for it but then again you will have an unsightly cable that is hard to hide because they are rarely long enough to do properly.
> My personal choice here would be to use the built in port in the back unless you need it for some odd reason connected to your front case. I use mine in the rear and actually only turn it on when I need to access those drives because they will also draw power from your PSU.


its an externally powered drive that i use on a regular basis(still fiddling with cable management of extra power cables with my haf932 and the only place i can seem to fit them is in the bottom of the hdd bay) i was just wondering what controller was more reliable


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SunSonik*
> 
> Hi! Can i join to the club?


Of course, have a go at filling in the Form which should be available in the OP.


----------



## Mieske666

Not good editted below..


----------



## Mieske666

The table for viewing who is already part of the club is not showing correctly in IE9. You can't select beyond a few mobo's the rest is too much to the right and never shows so you can't select P8Z68-V for instance. Just thought i'd inform you.

Regards,
Mieske


----------



## am dew1

EDIT: Ditto above...I'm at 1366x768 resolution and using Firefox 10. Removing the right bar helped some but still can't see all the links.


----------



## Norlig

you two need higher resolution monitors


----------



## snipekill2445

Hey guys. I'n looking at buying a P8Z68 for Ivy or Sandy bridge. First of all, will Ivy Bridge work on the Z68 Chipset? Also, how well can you overclock with this board?

Is it great value for money, does it stay cool, What is the power delivery like?

All answers are appreiciated, and I decided to post here cause I thought you guys would know best


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Hey guys. I'n looking at buying a P8Z68 for Ivy or Sandy bridge. First of all, will Ivy Bridge work on the Z68 Chipset? Also, how well can you overclock with this board?
> Is it great value for money, does it stay cool, What is the power delivery like?
> All answers are appreiciated, and I decided to post here cause I thought you guys would know best


I ordered my ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 Motherboard + Crucial M4 128GB. They should be here by this weekend... to answer your questions, based on my review readings...

Yes it will support Ivy, it overclocks very well. power delivery is very good and low vdroop from my readings and also seems to stay cool.

I have a few questions for people who already own the z68 chipset version...

1) Do you turn EPU/TPU off/on? What are the benefits/flaws with these features?
2) Should I put my new SSD on the Marvel or the Intel ports?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> I ordered my ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 Motherboard + Crucial M4 128GB. They should be here by this weekend... to answer your questions, based on my review readings...
> Yes it will support Ivy, it overclocks very well. power delivery is very good and low vdroop from my readings and also seems to stay cool.
> I have a few questions for people who already own the z68 chipset version...
> 1) Do you turn EPU/TPU off/on? What are the benefits/flaws with these features?
> 2) Should I put my new SSD on the Marvel or the Intel ports?


1) I don't use them.
2) You would be silly to not use the intel port's for your SSD and or main drive(s).


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> The table for viewing who is already part of the club is not showing correctly in IE9. You can't select beyond a few mobo's the rest is too much to the right and never shows so you can't select P8Z68-V for instance. Just thought i'd inform you.
> 
> Regards,
> Mieske


Thanks for letting me know, in "preference" setting which is located at the top of every thread, set the page width like so and let me know how it works for you:



I'll add instructions in the OP if it does the job well


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> I have a few questions for people who already own the z68 chipset version...
> 1) Do you turn EPU/TPU off/on? What are the benefits/flaws with these features?
> 2) Should I put my new SSD on the Marvel or the Intel ports?


Well I dont have z68 board but P8P67 is kinda similar

1) I've overclocked so you would turn EPU (that is power saving stuff) off if overlcloking too and I've read reviews about using that EPU and it didnt seem very power saving, TPU is that turbo thing, which turbos your cpu little bit. Both of them are unuseful when overclocking cpu.
2) To Intel because its better.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Hey guys. I'n looking at buying a P8Z68 for Ivy or Sandy bridge. First of all, will Ivy Bridge work on the Z68 Chipset? Also, how well can you overclock with this board?
> Is it great value for money, does it stay cool, What is the power delivery like?
> All answers are appreiciated, and I decided to post here cause I thought you guys would know best


Correct me if I'm wrong but Ivy will be compatible with all Z68 boards, Gen3 just means it will support PCIe 3.0?
As far as overclocking goes, these boards will let you hit 5.0+ if your chip can take it. Phase count for the CPU is 12 I believe.
Value is pretty good, there is an Asrock board for $130 that will let you go to 5.0 as well but you will receive more community support buying an Asus.
I bought the P8Z68-V Gen3 and I have zero regrets. Hope this helped.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know, in "preference" setting which is located at the top of every thread, set the page width like so and let me know how it works for you:
> 
> I'll add instructions in the OP if it does the job well


Thanks, but I had already tried setting those things that way and it did not help.


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know, in "preference" setting which is located at the top of every thread, set the page width like so and let me know how it works for you:
> 
> I'll add instructions in the OP if it does the job well


Yeah that helps if i maximise my browser. I am fwiw @1680x1050 on a dual 19" screen and the monitors are big enough for my needs. I can see the P8Z68-V now. Still not all models show. Wich is too bad. It helps me for now but others will have this problem too i guess.

Anyways thank you very much.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but Ivy will be compatible with all Z68 boards, Gen3 just means it will support PCIe 3.0?
> As far as overclocking goes, these boards will let you hit 5.0+ if your chip can take it. Phase count for the CPU is 12 I believe.
> Value is pretty good, there is an Asrock board for $130 that will let you go to 5.0 as well but you will receive more community support buying an Asus.
> I bought the P8Z68-V Gen3 and I have zero regrets. Hope this helped.


It depends on when you purchased your board and what bios version that it came with. I got my board in early December and it had a bios version that was already Ivy compatible. Older boards just need to flash the bios IF they are going to get a new Ivy CPU.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Yeah that helps if i maximise my browser. I am fwiw @1680x1050 on a dual 19" screen and the monitors are big enough for my needs. I can see the P8Z68-V now. Still not all models show. Wich is too bad. It helps me for now but others will have this problem too i guess.
> 
> Anyways thank you very much.


Can you not see these buttons? this is on IE9:



I've just tested this and it's working fine for me.

*EDIT:*

Just realised it's probably because of you resolution, unfortunately it's difficult to cater everyone's needs, however I'll see what I can do to make it more accessible to everyone.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Can you not see these buttons? this is on IE9:
> 
> I've just tested this and it's working fine for me.
> *EDIT:*
> Just realised it's probably because of you resolution, unfortunately it's difficult to cater everyone's needs, however I'll see what I can do to make it more accessible to everyone.


Nope, cannot see those buttons. I am sure it is a resolution thing. I would think a real easy solution would be to put a line break about half way across the line of links.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Nope, cannot see those buttons. I am sure it is a resolution thing. I would think a real easy solution would be to put a line break about half way across the line of links.


Could you post a screenshot so I can see please.


----------



## munaim1

Content coming soon.....


----------



## munaim1

res


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Could you post a screenshot so I can see please.


Sure thing.


----------



## drizzzzzzzle

Looking to get in.


----------



## alancsalt

For the spreadsheet, "stacking" the header text for each column and reducing column width as well as overall spreadsheet width, wouldn't that fix it?


----------



## wickedout

Hi there. What a night last night! Had my rig stable and all of sudden it stopped working. I got it back up and running this morning. I thought I had a bad mobo.

My rig wouldn't not boot into windows 7 for some reason. So I was lost trying to figure it out. First I thought it was the video card again failing on me. But that wasn't the case. I thought it was the ram and that wasn't the case. I thought it could have been my SSD not functioning correctly.

In the end I changed out the SATA cable to my SSD and HDD. And walla it worked. I had a bad SATA cable. So I did a fresh install of Win 7 and my rig is back to normal for now. By the this board is very easy to understand and use. I really like it. Having it less then a week and it's been not bad.


----------



## wickedout

I also noticed that when raising the multiplier over 36 turbo mode gets disabled. Any reason for this?


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I also noticed that when raising the multiplier over 36 turbo mode gets disabled. Any reason for this?


Because its gets over turbo multiplier? Change turbo multiplier?


----------



## MarKeR

Join the club please guys


----------



## essanbee

Rock Stock...



For now. Gonna try to get into Sandy Stable Club soon...


----------



## Mieske666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Can you not see these buttons? this is on IE9:
> 
> I've just tested this and it's working fine for me.
> *EDIT:*
> Just realised it's probably because of you resolution, unfortunately it's difficult to cater everyone's needs, however I'll see what I can do to make it more accessible to everyone.


Could be but my resolution is hardly off standard. I don't see the scroll button eiter.. I don't wanna make a fuss about it. But i may have a work around for you.

Why don't you just put the the the links in a spreadsheet so the thing is scrollable? Just like the spreadsheet itself. That scales just fine. And seems easy enough from where i sit to implement. That way you have a nice scrollbar independant of resolution







I don't know if that's possible but it sounds logical to me.

Than again it's not that important so thank you so much for taking your time









Regards,
Mieske.


----------



## wickedout

I have a quick question. In my device manager it's states I'm missing a driver. Other devices...unknown devices. Any idea of what it could be? I downloaded all the Intel drivers and other drivers for my rig. Just can't figure that one out!


----------



## Mieske666

Could be the Intel Management interface driver. In short MEI. If that's not it we need more info.. If it is that.. That driver is more a dummy driver so don't worry too much about it if is only that.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Could be the Intel Management interface driver. In short MEI. If that's not it we need more info.. If it is that.. That driver is more a dummy driver so don't worry too much about it if is only that.


Solved it. I disabled the BT in the BIOS. And for some strange reason it wouldn't recognize my IPOD. In the end I figured it out. Thanks!


----------



## Geeboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Could be but my resolution is hardly off standard. I don't see the scroll button eiter.. I don't wanna make a fuss about it. But i may have a work around for you.
> Why don't you just put the the the links in a spreadsheet so the thing is scrollable? Just like the spreadsheet itself. That scales just fine. And seems easy enough from where i sit to implement. That way you have a nice scrollbar independant of resolution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if that's possible but it sounds logical to me.
> Than again it's not that important so thank you so much for taking your time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Mieske.


Go into your profile and then edit account details then under forum preferences,check the boxes next too "view forums full width",and "Hide right column in forum threads"then you should see more of the spreadsheet.


----------



## Mieske666

You must have missed something







No worries though.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geeboi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mieske666*
> 
> Could be but my resolution is hardly off standard. I don't see the scroll button eiter.. I don't wanna make a fuss about it. But i may have a work around for you.
> Why don't you just put the the the links in a spreadsheet so the thing is scrollable? Just like the spreadsheet itself. That scales just fine. And seems easy enough from where i sit to implement. That way you have a nice scrollbar independant of resolution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if that's possible but it sounds logical to me.
> Than again it's not that important so thank you so much for taking your time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Mieske.
> 
> 
> 
> Go into your profile and then edit account details then under forum preferences,check the boxes next too "view forums full width",and "Hide right column in forum threads"then you should see more of the spreadsheet.
Click to expand...

When visiting here on my laptop which has 1280x800 native res I have the same issue even after applying the two preference settings but if you press and hold the Ctrl key and use the mouse scroll to zoom out it will reveal what you need. GL


----------



## Twistacles

I just wanted to come here to tell you all to stay the hell away from the p8p67 series. I've never owned a more horrible and troublesome motherboard.

Backtrack to january 9th~ when the Sandy Bridges first come out. I order a p8p67 deluxe: everything works fine! Until it dies two weeks later. No problem, I thought. This happens. RMA'd it.

The one I got back was dead on arrival. Rma'd Again.

Third board had a defective top GPU slot, 2 ram slots didn't work but I figured...who cares? It's been over a month and a half that I cant use my CPU, I'll deal with it.

Fast forward a year and the second gpu slot dies aswell. I'm forced to run my PC OUTSIDE MY CASE because I cant fit my gpu into the third slot. Rma... AGAIN...

Get my FOURTH ... supposedly 'tested' board:

TOP gpu slot still doesnt work, but at least the second one does!
two ram slots STILL dont work.
Heck, I don't even know if it boots into windows yet because I didn't have time to mess around with the sata wires trying to get it to see my HDDs.

Worst. Board. Ever. Holy ****. I can't believe ASUS is associated with this product


----------



## Jayjr1105

Sounds like they were just sending you back the same board over and over again just doing firmware wipes or something like that each time.


----------



## Twistacles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Sounds like they were just sending you back the same board over and over again just doing firmware wipes or something like that each time.


Not even o_o

I had the p8p67 PRO orginally, echanged through NCIX.ca, they gave me another PRO that couldve been the same one. Then I switched to a DELUXE so it HAD to be a new one, which worked ISH~ for a year. Now this one cant be the same since they did an advance rma...meaning I actually have both currently in my possession.

I also have a friend who has the p8 deluxe and hes about to do his 2nd rma.

edit: and before someone points to other peripherals... I've tested literally every other piece for failure. I've swapped multiple sets of ram, gpus, powersupplys.. heck ive even changed cases to see if there was a short circuit


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twistacles*
> 
> I just wanted to come here to tell you all to stay the hell away from the p8p67 series. I've never owned a more horrible and troublesome motherboard.
> 
> Backtrack to january 9th~ when the Sandy Bridges first come out. I order a p8p67 deluxe: everything works fine! Until it dies two weeks later. No problem, I thought. This happens. RMA'd it.
> 
> The one I got back was dead on arrival. Rma'd Again.
> 
> Third board had a defective top GPU slot, 2 ram slots didn't work but I figured...who cares? It's been over a month and a half that I cant use my CPU, I'll deal with it.
> 
> Fast forward a year and the second gpu slot dies aswell. I'm forced to run my PC OUTSIDE MY CASE because I cant fit my gpu into the third slot. Rma... AGAIN...
> 
> Get my FOURTH ... supposedly 'tested' board:
> 
> TOP gpu slot still doesnt work, but at least the second one does!
> two ram slots STILL dont work.
> Heck, I don't even know if it boots into windows yet because I didn't have time to mess around with the sata wires trying to get it to see my HDDs.
> 
> Worst. Board. Ever. Holy . I can't believe ASUS is associated with this product


That's strange. You either have the worst luck of anyone on the planet or you have some serious faults in your power supply, wiring, or some other nasty gremlin on your end.

There are literally thousands of users with P8P67 boards operating trouble-free. I'm very pleased with my P8P67 WS Revolution Rev. B3 and we have the same CPU at similar clock speeds.

Your 12 GB of RAM confuses me though. Is that some funky 2 x 6GB thing I'm unaware of, or did you install three 4 GB modules in the board? If you currently have 3 x 4GB modules installed, that may be a source of problems. (I doubt that it would cause dead PCIe slots, but it may account for other issues.)


----------



## selluminis

I just redid my system build and realized my EPU switch was in the on position this whole. What could this be doing to voltages? Could it be the reason I am seeming to have way higher voltages than other people with the same OC? I think I set EPU to disabled in the bios. Shouldn't that have taken care of EPU?


----------



## Schmuckley

p8p67 pro with bios 1502..is about the most solid option for an 1155 motherboard there is


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schmuckley*
> 
> p8p67 pro with bios 1502..is about the most solid option for an 1155 motherboard there is


My board with latest bios is solid as Mount Everest with my chip at 4.6.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Yea, I thought everyone raved about p8p67 boards? If the z68 had not been released that's what I would be running.


----------



## shad0wfax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I just redid my system build and realized my EPU switch was in the on position this whole. What could this be doing to voltages? Could it be the reason I am seeming to have way higher voltages than other people with the same OC? I think I set EPU to disabled in the bios. Shouldn't that have taken care of EPU?


From http://support.asus.com/FAQ/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=Maximus%20IV%20Extreme&p=1&s=39&os=29&hashedid=A&no=96E6BED6-54BF-E7EE-7407-655061E60FC0

(This is the Maxiumus Extreme IV, but it should apply to all motherboards by Asus that have the EPU switch in that series.)

The difference between the EPU switch, BIOS EPU option, and EPU under AiSuite II is as follows:


EPU Switch: Once enabled, it will enable EPU option in BIOS and default to auto mode.
BIOS EPU option: There are options to select the level of power saving (lowering Vcore voltage when the loading drops). Both the BIOS option and EPU switch will no effect the performance. However, the stability of high level power saving depending on the quality of the CPU and DRAM.
EPU under AiSuite II: There are 3 modes to choose from: AUTO (dynamic change multiplier and Vcore based on CPU load), High Performance (EPU OFF), and Max power saving (Drop CPU multiplier to lowest multiplier with the relative VID).

You can benefit from the combined result of the BIOS option and AiSuite II software. If AiSuite II is not installed, it will work as AUTO mode.

So it's my understanding that the EPU switch on the motherboard controls the motherboard components such as VRM, and that by enabling it, it enables it in the BIOS and sets the BIOS to automatic mode. If you were then to disable it in the BIOS, it should actually disable it overall and the switch becomes meaningless.

I also don't recommend using AiSuite II at all; I simply kept it in the quote for posterity's sake.


----------



## wickedout

As of tonight this board I have from ASUS is been more than surprising me. I mean I was using a ASRock E4 G3 board before this one. I might have to make my ASRock mobo be back up if this ASUS board goes south. I'm really pleased with it. Still a lot more to learn about getting OC'd and using low vcore with a good clock speeds. Thanks again to those who told me this board would not disappoint.


----------



## anuclearbomb

Hi guys, I would just like to ask if p67 sabertooth has the function to turn off the computer when its CPU fan fails?
Currently I am on water cooling and I would hate to have a dead CPU due to the pump, which is connected to the CPU fan plug.
I dont see this option in BIOS and i think I did accidentally turned the pump to 0 RPM in windows before and nothing happened....


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shad0wfax*
> 
> From http://support.asus.com/FAQ/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=Maximus%20IV%20Extreme&p=1&s=39&os=29&hashedid=A&no=96E6BED6-54BF-E7EE-7407-655061E60FC0
> (This is the Maxiumus Extreme IV, but it should apply to all motherboards by Asus that have the EPU switch in that series.)
> 
> _The difference between the EPU switch, BIOS EPU option, and EPU under AiSuite II is as follows:_
> 
> _EPU Switch: Once enabled, it will enable EPU option in BIOS and default to auto mode._
> _BIOS EPU option: There are options to select the level of power saving (lowering Vcore voltage when the loading drops). Both the BIOS option and EPU switch will no effect the performance. However, the stability of high level power saving depending on the quality of the CPU and DRAM._
> _EPU under AiSuite II: There are 3 modes to choose from: AUTO (dynamic change multiplier and Vcore based on CPU load), High Performance (EPU OFF), and Max power saving (Drop CPU multiplier to lowest multiplier with the relative VID)._
> _You can benefit from the combined result of the BIOS option and AiSuite II software. If AiSuite II is not installed, it will work as AUTO mode._
> 
> So it's my understanding that the EPU switch on the motherboard controls the motherboard components such as VRM, and that by enabling it, it enables it in the BIOS and sets the BIOS to automatic mode. If you were then to disable it in the BIOS, it should actually disable it overall and the switch becomes meaningless.
> 
> I also don't recommend using AiSuite II at all; I simply kept it in the quote for posterity's sake.


Okay, that makes sense. Thanks.


----------



## Yodums

Hey guys...

New P8Z68 owner with a 2500K. Quick question regarding overclocking with the multiplier: Will the BIOS and Windows system properties never show the overclocked speed? I overclocked my chip to 4.8 GHz using the guide in the first page, but only CPU-Z shows my overclocked speed, and the Windows and BIOS still show I'm at 3.3 GHz.

Thanks.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yodums*
> 
> Hey guys...
> New P8Z68 owner with a 2500K. Quick question regarding overclocking with the multiplier: Will the BIOS and Windows system properties never show the overclocked speed? I overclocked my chip to 4.8 GHz using the guide in the first page, but only CPU-Z shows my overclocked speed, and the Windows and BIOS still show I'm at 3.3 GHz.
> Thanks.


Maybe you did something wrong there? You need to do something with your computer to get it rise to your overclocking speed because of idling thing, try to use some prime95 there.

Sorry my bad. You are all right, they dont show it.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yodums*
> 
> Hey guys...
> New P8Z68 owner with a 2500K. Quick question regarding overclocking with the multiplier: Will the BIOS and Windows system properties never show the overclocked speed? I overclocked my chip to 4.8 GHz using the guide in the first page, but only CPU-Z shows my overclocked speed, and the Windows and BIOS still show I'm at 3.3 GHz.
> Thanks.


BIOS will still recognize the speed as 3.3 as will Windows because this is the stock clock of the chip. Your *turbo* speed is 4.8 which only kicks in on demand thus why windows and bios is showing 3.3. Perfectly normal


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anuclearbomb*
> 
> Hi guys, I would just like to ask if p67 sabertooth has the function to turn off the computer when its CPU fan fails?
> Currently I am on water cooling and I would hate to have a dead CPU due to the pump, which is connected to the CPU fan plug.
> I dont see this option in BIOS and i think I did accidentally turned the pump to 0 RPM in windows before and nothing happened....


I'm not familiar with the Sabertooth bios but from fiddling with several P67 & Z68 boards I have not seen one that will auto shut down the board at a particular preset temperature. I actually haven't seen that since NF2 939 boards.

However Intel has a fail safe system and your sandy bridge CPU will throttle at about 92c before any permanent damage is done. When it throttles the system shuts down immediately. I have seen it work personally but highly recommend avoiding get your proc that hot very often. Suffice to say your fears are taken care of by Intel.


----------



## Ziver

I'm using "P8Z68 V PRO" . Yesterday i upgrade the mobo's bios to 3203. Firstly every things was fine then while i playing game pc suddenly freeze and i cant enter the window. I tried somethings but i cant successful. Then i decided to reinstall to win. Reinstall windows everything was fine until trying insall my soundcard driver, when i tried install soundcard driver pc freeze and i cant enter the windows again. But when i remove to soundcard everything normal again , and onboard soundcard working perfect with games and other things too.

Why i cant use my own Soundcard ?

*Creative X-Fi Extreme Music*
*P8Z68 V PRO @ 3203*

|| Intel i7 2600K @ 4.8Ghz @ 1.35v @ ThermalRight Ultra 120 Extreme || Asus P8Z68 V-PRO || 8 GB Gskill Sniper @ 1600MHz || CoolerMaster CosMoS " S " ||Sapphire 7970 || BenQ XL 2410T || 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 Max IOPS || 2x Samsung HD502HJ F3 500GB Raid 0 , WD Caviar Green 2 TB || Enermax Infiniti 720W || Creative X-Fi Extreme Music||

Sorry for my bad english


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> I'm using "P8Z68 V PRO" . Yesterday i upgrade the mobo's bios to 3203. Firstly every things was fine then while i playing game pc suddenly freeze and i cant enter the window. I tried somethings but i cant successful. Then i decided to reinstall to win. Reinstall windows everything was fine until trying insall my soundcard driver, when i tried install soundcard driver pc freeze and i cant enter the windows again. But when i remove to soundcard everything normal again , and onboard soundcard working perfect with games and other things too.
> 
> Why i cant use my own Soundcard ?
> 
> *Creative X-Fi Extreme Music*
> *P8Z68 V PRO @ 3203*
> 
> || Intel i7 2600K @ 4.8Ghz @ 1.35v @ ThermalRight Ultra 120 Extreme || Asus P8Z68 V-PRO || 8 GB Gskill Sniper @ 1600MHz || CoolerMaster CosMoS " S " ||Sapphire 7970 || BenQ XL 2410T || 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 Max IOPS || 2x Samsung HD502HJ F3 500GB Raid 0 , WD Caviar Green 2 TB || Enermax Infiniti 720W || Creative X-Fi Extreme Music||
> 
> Sorry for my bad english


Do you have a Gen3 board? are you sure it's 3203 bios? What PCIe slot are you using? is it enabled in bios? What OS are you using? Has your product been classified as 'End of Service Life' by Creative? It may be time to replace, your motherboard if Gen3 should have 3202 bios see here (click to open spoiler under your specific board), depending on how many PCIe slots you are using you may need to enable the third slot in bios, and OS support for W7 is weak at best from Creative there drivers are problematic at best so you should consider modded drivers if you can find them. GL


----------



## Ziver

I have first version of V-Pro not GEN3. And my soundcard using old PCI slot







I tried official and Modded driver, both gave me a same problem. I think i must change my soundcard :S


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> I'm using "P8Z68 V PRO" . Yesterday i upgrade the mobo's bios to 3203. Firstly every things was fine then while i playing game pc suddenly freeze and i cant enter the window. I tried somethings but i cant successful. Then i decided to reinstall to win. Reinstall windows everything was fine until trying insall my soundcard driver, when i tried install soundcard driver pc freeze and i cant enter the windows again. But when i remove to soundcard everything normal again , and onboard soundcard working perfect with games and other things too.
> Why i cant use my own Soundcard ?
> *Creative X-Fi Extreme Music*
> *P8Z68 V PRO @ 3203*
> || Intel i7 2600K @ 4.8Ghz @ 1.35v @ ThermalRight Ultra 120 Extreme || Asus P8Z68 V-PRO || 8 GB Gskill Sniper @ 1600MHz || CoolerMaster CosMoS " S " ||Sapphire 7970 || BenQ XL 2410T || 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 Max IOPS || 2x Samsung HD502HJ F3 500GB Raid 0 , WD Caviar Green 2 TB || Enermax Infiniti 720W || Creative X-Fi Extreme Music||
> Sorry for my bad english


You can try disabling "Onboard AUDIO" in bios. It can also be called "Onboard HD Audio" in bios. Disable it and then try installing your Creative sound card.


----------



## Catscratch

Darn, I mentioned my P8P67 EVO is on RMA. It seems it's not avail here anymore, in fact, even pro is not avail only Deluxe. So it's gonna be price equilavent, either P8Z68-V or P8P67 Sabertooth :/


----------



## am dew1

I just discovered something interesting with my P8Z68V-Pro/GEN3 system. I wanted to get into Windows 7 "Safe Mode" last night so I restarted Windows and then repeatedly pressed F8 during POST. What came up was an ASUS "Boot Disk Option" dialog. I pressed ENTER and continued to press F8 but Windows 7 loaded in normal mode....I never got the screen which allows you to choose Safe Mode as a boot option.

I do have a Crucial M4 SSD as my boot drive so Windows does load up very fast, so maybe that is why this happens?

Any ideas or suggestions on how to get around this? I know I can set Windows to automatically boot into Safe Mode, but I am concerned that there may come a day when I can't load Windows for some reason and need to try Safe Mode.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I just discovered something interesting with my P8Z68V-Pro/GEN3 system. I wanted to get into Windows 7 "Safe Mode" last night so I restarted Windows and then repeatedly pressed F8 during POST. What came up was an ASUS "Boot Disk Option" dialog. I pressed ENTER and continued to press F8 but Windows 7 loaded in normal mode....I never got the screen which allows you to choose Safe Mode as a boot option.
> I do have a Crucial M4 SSD as my boot drive so Windows does load up very fast, so maybe that is why this happens?
> Any ideas or suggestions on how to get around this? I know I can set Windows to automatically boot into Safe Mode, but I am concerned that there may come a day when I can't load Windows for some reason and need to try Safe Mode.


you have to press F8 after splash screen ,right before your windows load


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> you have to press F8 after splash screen ,right before your windows load


Yea, but with an SSD which starts Windows so fast, that can be a challenge.


----------



## coolhandluke41

sorry ,i didn't mean "windows splash" but between logo/bios post screen and windows splash screen


----------



## MooMoo

Or just press the F8 continuously when starting your computer, hard drive doesnt affect on it


----------



## dajposkakac

The way I do it if by accident I get into boot menu is press enter to select the OS drive and almost at the same time start pressing F8.
Usually works.


----------



## alucardx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Yea, but with an SSD which starts Windows so fast, that can be a challenge.


since my p8z68 likes to stop detecting my keyboard randomly, i have a similar problem. to get into safe mode, I must use msconfig in Windows, goto the Boot tab, and enable safe boot at the bottom. Remember to turn this off when you're done or it will keep booting into safe mode.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardx*
> 
> since my p8z68 likes to stop detecting my keyboard randomly, i have a similar problem. to get into safe mode, I must use msconfig in Windows, goto the Boot tab, and enable safe boot at the bottom. Remember to turn this off when you're done or it will keep booting into safe mode.


Thanks everyone for the suggestions. It seems like I have tried all of them but will try again.

*UPDATE*: I have a USB keyboard and in BIOS I had 'Legacy USB Support' set to DISABLED, so I tried enabling it and that did the trick. After getting the ASUS Boot Options, I press ENTER then immediately press F8 repeatedly, then I get the MS boot option screen.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. It seems like I have tried all of them but will try again.
> *UPDATE*: I have a USB keyboard and in BIOS I had 'Legacy USB Support' set to DISABLED, so I tried enabling it and that did the trick. After getting the ASUS Boot Options, I press ENTER then immediately press F8 repeatedly, then I get the MS boot option screen.


I was having this exact same issue. I found that you have to be right on with the F8 press. If you press it right after the bios logo it will go into the boot menu. I did a 3 or 4 count and finally got it, but it was a pain. I like the MSconfig idea. Guarantees that you make it into safe mode.


----------



## guitarmageddon88

Ok, so I switched from my 64gb m4 and 1tb storage drive combo to just one 256gb m4 since all my stuff fits on there anyways. Now, when I boot up, I get that windows boot option screen that has four "windows 7" options to select for bootup. My motherboard is an asus p8z68 deluxe. I did the install with the storage drive in the loop, so maybe the bios is looking there too getting confused? But now when I pull that drive out with this new 256gb drive installed, a message pops up after post that says "select proper boot device" or something like that. And if I were to go into the bios and manually select a boot device (the 256gb ssd) it gives me that error. Any ideas?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarmageddon88*
> 
> Ok, so I switched from my 64gb m4 and 1tb storage drive combo to just one 256gb m4 since all my stuff fits on there anyways. Now, when I boot up, I get that windows boot option screen that has four "windows 7" options to select for bootup. My motherboard is an asus p8z68 deluxe. I did the install with the storage drive in the loop, so maybe the bios is looking there too getting confused? But now when I pull that drive out with this new 256gb drive installed, a message pops up after post that says "select proper boot device" or something like that. And if I were to go into the bios and manually select a boot device (the 256gb ssd) it gives me that error. Any ideas?


You have to set boot device as well as "BBs boot priority" or something like that. It is on the same menu as the boot device menu. There should be a 1,2,or3rd choice. Set the 256gb M$ as the first device and that should solve it.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I was having this exact same issue. I found that you have to be right on with the F8 press. If you press it right after the bios logo it will go into the boot menu. I did a 3 or 4 count and finally got it, but it was a pain. I like the MSconfig idea. Guarantees that you make it into safe mode.


I have my boot logo disabled to try and save a few seconds of boot time, but you may be right about having to be right on with the F8 press. And yes, the MSCONFIG option works for sure, but I like to be prepared for when Windows may not boot for some reason, which makes that option obsolete.


----------



## h00ahj

Hello everyone! I am a one week old owner of a ASUS P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 with a i7 2600k. I'm very proud of my purchase but I have a few questions if anybody else is experiencing the same thing.. From the moment you press the power on button on the case does it take a second or two for the PC to power up? I never experienced this before, for all my other motherboards I've used as soon as I pressed the power on button the computer turns on right away, but with this board it takes a second or two to power up.. Is that normal? Also.. when it powers up it takes a while for post to come up even with SATA controllers disabled, is this normal also? And one last thing sometimes when I try to get into BIOS/UEFI after pressing the DELETE key to get in, the computer restarts in an endless loop.. it doesnt happen all the time but sometimes when I try to get into UEFI it happens.. has anybody experiences any of these issues? I'll appreciate any responses! thanks!

I ran memtest86+ and it came back with no errors thank goodness. I also ran prime95 for a while to max the computer out and it was stable no crashes or anything temps dont go higher then 55c..


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardx*
> 
> since my p8z68 likes to stop detecting my keyboard randomly, i have a similar problem. to get into safe mode, I must use msconfig in Windows, goto the Boot tab, and enable safe boot at the bottom. Remember to turn this off when you're done or it will keep booting into safe mode.


This was never an issue for me on P8P67 EVO but this temporary Gigabyte z68ap-d3 has a notorious annoyance that it detects keyboard too late that I can't enter BIOS ! So there are worse case scenarios


----------



## General121

Guys we gotta post fast. Page 666


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h00ahj*
> 
> Hello everyone! I am a one week old owner of a ASUS P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 with a i7 2600k. I'm very proud of my purchase but I have a few questions if anybody else is experiencing the same thing.. From the moment you press the power on button on the case does it take a second or two for the PC to power up? I never experienced this before, for all my other motherboards I've used as soon as I pressed the power on button the computer turns on right away, but with this board it takes a second or two to power up.. Is that normal? Also.. when it powers up it takes a while for post to come up even with SATA controllers disabled, is this normal also? And one last thing sometimes when I try to get into BIOS/UEFI after pressing the DELETE key to get in, the computer restarts in an endless loop.. it doesnt happen all the time but sometimes when I try to get into UEFI it happens.. has anybody experiences any of these issues? I'll appreciate any responses! thanks!
> 
> I ran memtest86+ and it came back with no errors thank goodness. I also ran prime95 for a while to max the computer out and it was stable no crashes or anything temps dont go higher then 55c..


I recommend you read through the first few post in this thread there is a ton of advice on speeding up your boot time. Like disabling logo show, JMB & Marvel Storage Controllers, setting PCIe boot to enabled but all that is based on your components & current bios settings If you'd like to share a bit more info maybe I could be of more help.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Guys we gotta post fast. Page 666


Switch to a larger post count per page and problem solved I show page 134 besides the devil is afraid of my savior.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Switch to a larger post count per page and problem solved I show page 134 besides *the devil is afraid of my savior.*


Yes!


----------



## 271973

Hi guys

I'm having some trouble with my Antec Kuhler H2O 620's fan when using ASUS's AI Suite on my P8Z68-V PRO GEN3. I clicked 'Test' and it ran and is showing 1300-1400RPM as ALL of the % for the CPU fan profile.

Anyone know if this is normal? Might be better placed at the Kuhler thread, but trying to rule out it being an AI Suite quirk!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I'm having some trouble with my Antec Kuhler H2O 620's fan when using ASUS's AI Suite on my P8Z68-V PRO GEN3. I clicked 'Test' and it ran and is showing 1300-1400RPM as ALL of the % for the CPU fan profile.
> 
> Anyone know if this is normal? Might be better placed at the Kuhler thread, but trying to rule out it being an AI Suite quirk!


If you read around the forums you will see many saying not to use the AI Suite II and after trying it my self I uninstalled all the Asus Utility software. Nothing seemed to work 100% and I had nothing but trouble I should has listened to what others were saying. I control from within bios by disabling if I need finer control I'll use a dedicated fan controller. That said there are peeps using the CPU fan headers with PWM fans and having great success but I'm pretty sure that through the bios and not using the Utility. GL


----------



## bodean

Should we enable speedstep technology in our bios?
I am manually overclocked to 4.3 ghz, but want it to run at a lower setting when the overclock is not needed (ie. when not gaming).


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Should we enable speedstep technology in our bios?
> I am manually overclocked to 4.3 ghz, but want it to run at a lower setting when the overclock is not needed (ie. when not gaming).


Whoa, how many of you are there? LOL. Yes, that will allow it to "step down" to lower clocks while not loading the CPU. Also, lowers vcore.









Keep an eye on it though, if you have not allowed for it, it could make your OC unstable and you may have to make a couple small adjustments.


----------



## LuminatX

p8p67 pro owners, new bios came out the other day.
BIOS 2302.

(unless im too late on posting this ahha)


----------



## Tyreman

Yes 2302 doesn't say what it addressed other than stability(?)
I am running it here on vanilla board.


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If you read around the forums you will see many saying not to use the AI Suite II and after trying it my self I uninstalled all the Asus Utility software. Nothing seemed to work 100% and I had nothing but trouble I should has listened to what others were saying. I control from within bios by disabling if I need finer control I'll use a dedicated fan controller. That said there are peeps using the CPU fan headers with PWM fans and having great success but I'm pretty sure that through the bios and not using the Utility. GL


So If i completely uninstall the AI Suite, will my USB Boost and TurboV EVO still function correctly?


----------



## VARJAG

Hello everyone.
I just bought Asus p8z68-v/gen3 and i5-2500k. After upgrading lo latest BIOS and loading "optimized defaults" settings I installed Win7 and noticed something fishy going on. Speedstep was behaving very weird. It would downclock i5-2500k from stock 3.3Ghz to 1.6Ghz at idle,which is normal, but then when I started loading CPU with applications it's frequency(multiplier) was jumping like crazy, starting at 1.6Ghz and going 1.7Ghz 2.1Ghz 2.5Ghz 2.8Ghz 3.1Ghz and finally 3.3Ghz at more or less serious load. After I saw that I went into bios, Turned AI to X.M.P and disabled Turbo mode, EPU power saving mode, C3 and C6 states. Leaving IEST and C1E enabled. Now it's clearly less "jumpy" but still goes to 2.1\3Ghz on occasion. Is it because C1E is still enabled? I do not completely understand C1E purpose so some help would be appriciated on tips about making my CPU go from 1.6Ghz at idle straight to 3.3Ghz at load.

I have a couple more questions but that's after someone will answer the above


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VARJAG*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> I just bought Asus p8z68-v/gen3 and i5-2500k. After upgrading lo latest BIOS and loading "optimized defaults" settings I installed Win7 and noticed something fishy going on. Speedstep was behaving very weird. It would downclock i5-2500k from stock 3.3Ghz to 1.6Ghz at idle,which is normal, but then when I started loading CPU with applications it's frequency(multiplier) was jumping like crazy, starting at 1.6Ghz and going 1.7Ghz 2.1Ghz 2.5Ghz 2.8Ghz 3.1Ghz and finally 3.3Ghz at more or less serious load. After I saw that I went into bios, Turned AI to X.M.P and disabled Turbo mode, EPU power saving mode, C3 and C6 states. Leaving IEST and C1E enabled. Now it's clearly less "jumpy" but still goes to 2.1\3Ghz on occasion. Is it because C1E is still enabled? I do not completely understand C1E purpose so some help would be appriciated on tips about making my CPU go from 1.6Ghz at idle straight to 3.3Ghz at load.
> I have a couple more questions but that's after someone will answer the above


Its just the power saving options. They will downclock the CPU and voltage base on how your using it. its fine. Some time's you might have to dissable the power saving options to get a stable OC but that is how it works.


----------



## VARJAG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Its just the power saving options. They will downclock the CPU and voltage base on how your using it. its fine. Some time's you might have to dissable the power saving options to get a stable OC but that is how it works.


But how exactly do I turn all the power saving options off? what are they except EPU/C3/C6??? Should I turn C1E off as well? It's just that I want to leave Speedstep enabled so my CPU would go straight from 1.6GHz idle to 3.3Ghz load with nothing in between.

Also should I disable Intel Thermal monitor??? What is that exactly??


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VARJAG*
> 
> But how exactly do I turn all the power saving options off? what are they except EPU/C3/C6??? Should I turn C1E off as well? It's just that I want to leave Speedstep enabled so my CPU would go straight from 1.6GHz idle to 3.3Ghz load with nothing in between.
> Also should I disable Intel Thermal monitor??? What is that exactly??


That minor step in between is totally trivial. If you only need 1.6, then you get 1.6. if you need more, you get more, but only as much as you need. It will keep temps down, and lower the voltage needed for your CPU to idle happy. If you want to turn them off, then just disable them. Some one correct me if I'm wrong but you either have your CPU down clock how it wants or you don't. No in between. If you want to disable them just disable them in the BIO. I personally leave them on and love them.

EDIT: I dont know what the termal monitor is, I leave it on, I think it's for the overheat protection.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If you read around the forums you will see many saying not to use the AI Suite II and after trying it my self I uninstalled all the Asus Utility software. Nothing seemed to work 100% and I had nothing but trouble I should has listened to what others were saying. I control from within bios by disabling if I need finer control I'll use a dedicated fan controller. That said there are peeps using the CPU fan headers with PWM fans and having great success but I'm pretty sure that through the bios and not using the Utility. GL
> 
> 
> 
> So If i completely uninstall the AI Suite, will my USB Boost and TurboV EVO still function correctly?
Click to expand...

Yes I would completely avoid the Suite software especially EVO. There is an auto tune feature accessible in the bios the EVO software is merely a switch to turn it on. So if you must use it there is no need to install the software. Software Overclocking is extremely unreliable. Settings like voltages tend to be on the high side so they work for the masses which in turn keeps your temps higher than necessary and decreases life span IMHO. In regards to the USB 3.0 Boost you can download the full product software package at your Asus product page and avoid the AI Suite complete package for installing it. Go to this page Look for USB 3.0 Boost Full Package Version V1.00.05 just click on download then expand the USB tab.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VARJAG*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> I just bought Asus p8z68-v/gen3 and i5-2500k. After upgrading lo latest BIOS and loading "optimized defaults" settings I installed Win7 and noticed something fishy going on. Speedstep was behaving very weird. It would downclock i5-2500k from stock 3.3Ghz to 1.6Ghz at idle,which is normal, but then when I started loading CPU with applications it's frequency(multiplier) was jumping like crazy, starting at 1.6Ghz and going 1.7Ghz 2.1Ghz 2.5Ghz 2.8Ghz 3.1Ghz and finally 3.3Ghz at more or less serious load. After I saw that I went into bios, Turned AI to X.M.P and disabled Turbo mode, EPU power saving mode, C3 and C6 states. Leaving IEST and C1E enabled. Now it's clearly less "jumpy" but still goes to 2.1\3Ghz on occasion. Is it because C1E is still enabled? I do not completely understand C1E purpose so some help would be appriciated on tips about making my CPU go from 1.6Ghz at idle straight to 3.3Ghz at load.
> I have a couple more questions but that's after someone will answer the above


I remember that this isn't the behavior before the updated BIOS, right? I remember that Speedstep only throttles the CPU clock speed from 1.6GHz and back to 3.3GHz with no in betweens. Can someone confirm this?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VARJAG*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> I just bought Asus p8z68-v/gen3 and i5-2500k. After upgrading lo latest BIOS and loading "optimized defaults" settings I installed Win7 and noticed something fishy going on. Speedstep was behaving very weird. It would downclock i5-2500k from stock 3.3Ghz to 1.6Ghz at idle,which is normal, but then when I started loading CPU with applications it's frequency(multiplier) was jumping like crazy, starting at 1.6Ghz and going 1.7Ghz 2.1Ghz 2.5Ghz 2.8Ghz 3.1Ghz and finally 3.3Ghz at more or less serious load. After I saw that I went into bios, Turned AI to X.M.P and disabled Turbo mode, EPU power saving mode, C3 and C6 states. Leaving IEST and C1E enabled. Now it's clearly less "jumpy" but still goes to 2.1\3Ghz on occasion. Is it because C1E is still enabled? I do not completely understand C1E purpose so some help would be appriciated on tips about making my CPU go from 1.6Ghz at idle straight to 3.3Ghz at load.
> I have a couple more questions but that's after someone will answer the above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember that this isn't the behavior before the updated BIOS, right? I remember that Speedstep only throttles the CPU clock speed from 1.6GHz and back to 3.3GHz with no in betweens. Can someone confirm this?
Click to expand...

I use EPU max power saving mode and prefer the stepping to conserve power. With the 1101 bios it runs at either x16 or x46 with little to no jumping in between. If you want/need the multi and vcore static you'll need to set Speedstep, EPU, C1E C3 & C6 all need disabled. It has worked this way since 702 bios for me not sure if the current 3203 works the same and have been seeing a steady rash of complaints with it so I may be passing on it all together.

edit: grammar


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I use EPU max power saving mode and prefer the stepping to conserve power. With the 1101 bios it runs at either x16 or x46 with little to no jumping in between. If you want/need the multi and vcore static Speedstep, EPU, C1E C3 & C6 all need disabled. It has worked this way since 702 bios for me not sure if the current 3203 works the same and have been seeing a steady rash of complaints with it so I may be passing on it all together.


What do you mean by static speedstep?


----------



## VARJAG

Well I enabled C1E and EIST, C3/C6 are on auto which I think is disabled by default(or should I disable them manually??). And then I made turbo mode run at 4Ghz, when I loaded to Windows it was all good, but Vcore was around 1.33 which is ridiculously high for this clock speed... so I manually found a value of 1.15v which works like a charm at 4Ghz, running Prime95 right now and no errors as of now, just passed first self-test without errors, also my CPU temperature is peaking at 50C while it's about 20-22C in my room. Now I need to calculate offset mode so Speedstep can drop Vcore as well as core speed. And CPU multiplier stopped jumping all over the place, now it's straight 1.6Ghz to 4Ghz.

Now my question is about Load Line calibration, I left it on auto for now since this is a very low overclock, or should I use High/Extreme? And SpreadSpectrum enabled or disabled??? I've read tonnes of guides on overckloking I5-2500k but in every one it seems SpreadSpectrum is defferent, is there something like a single opinion on SpreadSpectrum enabled or disabled???

Also in all guides I see people using AI Tuner on MANUAL. Why is that better then X.M.P option???


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VARJAG*
> 
> Also in all guides I see people using AI Tuner on MANUAL. Why is that better then X.M.P option???


X.M.P. Is an overclock profile, with manual you can set your memory mhz & timings to default or keep them auto.


----------



## VARJAG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> X.M.P. Is an overclock profile, with manual you can set your memory mhz & timings to default or keep them auto.


Thanks for the explanation. But since it's a low overclock it sits pretty at 1600Mhz and 9-9-9-24-2T timings and 1.5v. and I'm happy with it so will still use XMP until I need to overclock my CPU higher.

I'm seeing my Bus Speed jumping a little bit, it's not 100Mhz at all times, somethimes it's 99.9 or 100.1, is it normal or should I tweak something for it to be 100Mhz at all times?


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VARJAG*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation. But since it's a low overclock it sits pretty at 1600Mhz and 9-9-9-24-2T timings and 1.5v. and I'm happy with it so will still use XMP until I need to overclock my CPU higher.
> I'm seeing my Bus Speed jumping a little bit, it's not 100Mhz at all times, somethimes it's 99.9 or 100.1, is it normal or should I tweak something for it to be 100Mhz at all times?


Yeah, that is normal









I saw your signature, You can also put your system information to this OCN Rigbuilder: http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG Its alot nicer


----------



## jcniest5

Enlisting myself as a Proud owner of a Deluxe/Gen3 board.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2241706


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I use EPU max power saving mode and prefer the stepping to conserve power. With the 1101 bios it runs at either x16 or x46 with little to no jumping in between. If you want/need the *multi and vcore static* Speedstep, EPU, C1E C3 & C6 all need disabled. It has worked this way since 702 bios for me not sure if the current 3203 works the same and have been seeing a steady rash of complaints with it so I may be passing on it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean by static speedstep?
Click to expand...

My grammar was bad there I should have used a period or comma between static and speedstep sorry for the confusion, however Static means it's fixed or stationary with little to no fluxuation. I use the static method, some call it manual, to know what my offset should be. Every chip is different and it's important to know the minimum stable vcore to achieve a given clock. When using power saving features that includes the low vcore at idle as well as the high at load. Although at 4.0 and under LLC is not as important it plays a roll in terms of how much vdroop there is so most do not use auto and leave it to chance. For example I need ultra high LLC with an offset of -0.010 to remain stable at 4.6 or a x46 multi. If I use High LLC the vdroop at idle drops below the minimum to remain stable which for my proc is about .992 - 1.0 which can cause idle time BSODs conversely it (ultra High ) puts my load vcore to 1.344 (w/ -0.010 offset) which when using manual/static vcore is the minimum I need to be 100% stable for my proc I think it should be obvious using the static method first is necessary if you want to use the power saving features for no other reason but to know what your target voltages need to be. I hope this makes sense to you and it helps. LMK

edit grammar daaaaaaa....

FYI when using the power saving features in offset mode I enable C1E and leave C3 & C6 on auto the opposite is true when using the static/manual mode where I disable all.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VARJAG*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation. But since it's a low overclock it sits pretty at 1600Mhz and 9-9-9-24-2T timings and 1.5v. and I'm happy with it so will still use XMP until I need to overclock my CPU higher.
> I'm seeing my Bus Speed jumping a little bit, it's not 100Mhz at all times, somethimes it's 99.9 or 100.1, is it normal or should I tweak something for it to be 100Mhz at all times?


Disable spread spectrum in the BIOS. That will lock the bclock at 100.0


----------



## wickedout

How do you raise the turbo in the BIOS? Screen shot to show me how it's done may help me big time with my overclock. I'm currently stable at 4.7 GHz but would like to go higher. Thanks in advance.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hi Everyone How can i join?
I own a Asus z68 Deluxe Gen3 motherboard
I have a link to my CPUID Validation is that good or?
also some pics i posted back on page 657.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2283583


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> How do you raise the turbo in the BIOS? Screen shot to show me how it's done may help me big time with my overclock. I'm currently stable at 4.7 GHz but would like to go higher. Thanks in advance.


Your question does not make sense. If you are at 4.7 you know how unless you used the auto OC in which case it would likely be between 4.3 and 4.6 not 4.7. You are also not likely to be on auto vcore at 4.7 so you must know it takes more vcore for 4.8. So I'm guessing you would like to see if your system will step/scale like the default 3.4 to 3.8. You are likely have your system set to auto turbo mode now with By all core and selected x47 for you current clock which is a departure from the baked in (defaullt) Intel Turbo mode which is By per core. I too have wondered and experimented with that method of overclocking. From my experience it was problematic at best and difficult to know what all Intel uses to make it stable but it doesn't hurt to experiment. I went back to offset By all core method because it did not scale as expected and was not stable. In any case YMMV and Illustrated below is how to do it. Once you have selected "By Per Core" for turbo mode you then have to select each cores multi individually.





I found that under 100% load it rarely scaled above 4.7 with similar settings and occasionally went up to 4.8 with single threaded apps never all the way to the top of 4.9 not matter what settings I used. This was a disappointment to me and unless I missed something I'm not sure how to correct it. I think this is why many have opted to lower there clocks to 4.6 even when 5.0 is easily attainable. The higher clocks are not required for most of the demands we throw at it so why shorten the life with higher voltages and thermals and risk instability. again it doesn't hurt to experiment and YMMV.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

just got this board and was wondering if anyone could explain to me exactly what primary/secondary current plane limits are/do?


----------



## Britt007

Hi,

I've got a Asus P8Z68 Deluxe Motherboard with 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 memory @ 1648MHz

My problem is OC my memory, I've read people getting it to 2000MHz but not sure how to get it there, below are pictures of my BIOS setup.

I've tried setting the memory frequency to 1922MHz, timings to 9-10-9-27 and voltage to 1.65 but with no luck, I'd appreciate advice if this is achievable.

Thank you.


----------



## BVM




----------



## BVM

I think I may have set up my SATA and RAID all wrong. I have my SSD & optical drive in the top 2 SATA ports, my RAID 0 in the two grey ports and my back up drive in one of the lower 4 ports. I ended up using ctrl + i to set up my RAID using the Intel hardware. I am thinking maybe I should have put the RAID drives in the top to ports (Marvell) and my SSD in one of the grey SATA ports. Yes/No?


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BVM*
> 
> I think I may have set up my SATA and RAID all wrong. I have my SSD & optical drive in the top 2 SATA ports, my RAID 0 in the two grey ports and my back up drive in one of the lower 4 ports. I ended up using ctrl + i to set up my RAID using the Intel hardware. I am thinking maybe I should have put the RAID drives in the top to ports (Marvell) and my SSD in one of the grey SATA ports. Yes/No?


No, they are kinda bad, use Intel instead.


----------



## BVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> No, they are kinda bad, use Intel instead.


Should I move the SSD off the Marvell controller down to the lower 4 SATA ports then?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BVM*
> 
> Should I move the SSD off the Marvell controller down to the lower 4 SATA ports then?


Your SSD should be on the Intel controller for best performance.


----------



## BVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Your SSD should be on the Intel controller for best performance.


I moved my WD CB 1TB's to SATA E1/E2 and set the RAID 0 back up. My SSD is now on the Intel SATA 3 connector. (grey). My raid 0 performance took a hit in write performance:

Before:

(crystalmark 64bit)
223.5 /210.7
50.92 / 110.6
0.791 / 2.331
3.326 / 2.485

now
224.8 / 134.3
54.90 / 85.42
0.800 / 2.050
3.282 / 2.347

*note this is normal "real world" config, AV etc all on. Just like you'd use to browse the web etc.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BVM*
> 
> I moved my WD CB 1TB's to SATA E1/E2 and set the RAID 0 back up. My SSD is now on the Intel SATA 3 connector. (grey). My raid 0 performance took a hit in write performance:
> Before:
> (crystalmark 64bit)
> 223.5 /210.7
> 50.92 / 110.6
> 0.791 / 2.331
> 3.326 / 2.485
> now
> 224.8 / 134.3
> 54.90 / 85.42
> 0.800 / 2.050
> 3.282 / 2.347
> *note this is normal "real world" config, AV etc all on. Just like you'd use to browse the web etc.


Make sure you have all hardware monitor programs that might poll the SSD for temps and re run the test. The Intel Controller should net more performance than the marval controller.


----------



## raisethe3

I am contemplating on getting the P8P67 EVO or Deluxe. Is there any big differences between the two?

Thanks for all your input.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Anyone else with a P8Z68 Deluxe Gen3 motherboard with a I7 2700k
that has a good and stable overclock and voltage for 4.5Ghz and 4.7Ghz..
i tryed 4.5Ghz at 1.34 to 1.36 volts..couldn't really get it stable.
just wondering what other people have their voltage and overclock at?

i idle at 19*C at 4.5 and 1.35V
and am 38 to 40*C at full load.
but everyone once in a while i get the dredded blue screen. maybe one hour maybe 3..but it happens.
turned it back to 3.6 and 1.12 for now as i know that is solid as a rock.


----------



## EVILNOK

So the top 2 6GB sata ports are the marvell ports? and the bottom 4-3GB ports are the Intel? I've had my SSD in the top 6GB port. I also have a 1TB drive for games and a 250GB drive for pictures. Those drives are on the 3GB ports. So if I'm not using a RAID set up would I still benefit any from moving the SSD down to 1 of the 3GB ports? Sorry for all these questions I've read a lot about people having issues with Marvell ports using RAID and am kind of confused.Here is the AS SSD benchmark with my SSD in the 6GB port:


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVILNOK*
> 
> So the top 2 6GB sata ports are the marvell ports? and the bottom 4-3GB ports are the Intel?


I think its vice versa, but you can check it from your mobo manual.

EDIT: I think you dont even have marvell ports there







...
I checked it from ASUS site "Intel® Z68 chipset :
2 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), gray
4 x SATA 3Gb/s port(s), blue
Support Raid 0, 1, 5, 10
Support Intel® Smart Response Technology on 2nd generation Intel® Core™ processor family
JMicron® JMB362 controller : *3
1 x eSATA 3Gb/s port(s), red"


----------



## EVILNOK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> I think its vice versa, but you can check it from your mobo manual.
> EDIT: I think you dont even have marvell ports there...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I checked it from ASUS site "Intel® Z68 chipset :
> 2 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), gray
> 4 x SATA 3Gb/s port(s), blue
> Support Raid 0, 1, 5, 10
> Support Intel® Smart Response Technology on 2nd generation Intel® Core™ processor family
> JMicron® JMB362 controller : *3
> 1 x eSATA 3Gb/s port(s), red"


I have the ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 and I've read and re-read my mobo manual trying to find some mention of Marvell ports. Even in the UEFI BIOS there is no Marvell options. and the asus website spec tab only lists the JMicron® JMB362 controller. I guess mine doesn't even have Marvell ports? That the only conclusion I can come to. EDIT-Doh just saw your edit. Now I don't feel as stupid. I kept telling myself "there has to be Marvell ports here somewhere, you're doing it wrong!" lol.


----------



## dartuil

my mobo still dont have ivy bridge bios


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> I am contemplating on getting the P8P67 EVO or Deluxe. Is there any big differences between the two?
> Thanks for all your input.


So no one here knows?


----------



## EVILNOK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> So no one here knows?


\

The only real difference I see is it looks like the deluxe has 2 more USB 2.0 ports than the EVO. Maybe someone who has owned them can elaborate a little more.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

i need some serious help from you guys. i just got a p8z68-v/gen3 and I cannot get it to hold ANY overclock, not even 100 mhz. Is there something I'm missing? is there a single specific bios setting thats keeping my 2600k at stock?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> i need some serious help from you guys. i just got a p8z68-v/gen3 and I cannot get it to hold ANY overclock, not even 100 mhz. Is there something I'm missing? is there a single specific bios setting thats keeping my 2600k at stock?


clear CMOS and reload "factory defaults" then see if you can use the OC scan tool in the BIOS to OC the chip. Just click on it and it will restart the PC. let it do its thing and then go into windows and see if it gave you an OC or not... That was what I did first time around my chip...then I started to play with the individual settings.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

i'll reset cmos now. did you have the same issue with not being able to OC?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> i'll reset cmos now. did you have the same issue with not being able to OC?


No. For fear of not doing it right I let it do it for me out of curiosity. This was my first intel and it was mind blowing looking at all the neat and new settings in the BIOS for the i5 lol. Untill I was able to learn about each setting I didn't trust myself to do it.I rocked the Auto OC for a day so then I found




 and followed blindly( still had no idea about some of the settings and how the would affect the chip) with the exception of the power saving settings. It worked perfectly stable. However I was able to push even further after TONS of reading and learning...still perfecting it lulz.

EDIT: changed wording so some parts made where in english lulz.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

the thing is i'm not really new to this, my gaming rig is at 4.8 and has been for over a year, and i was at a stable 5.2 on my other mobo until one of my VRM's fried, so now its out for RMA.

I reset the cmos, and nothing. I even left everything at stock (3.4 norm, 3.7 turbo). At 100% cpu usage, it stays at 3.4. something is not right....


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> the thing is i'm not really new to this, my gaming rig is at 4.8 and has been for over a year, and i was at a stable 5.2 on my other mobo until one of my VRM's fried, so now its out for RMA.
> I reset the cmos, and nothing. I even left everything at stock (3.4 norm, 3.7 turbo). At 100% cpu usage, it stays at 3.4. something is not right....


Post screens of your BIOS settings please.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 47
Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
Memory Frequency: auto
DRAM Timing Control: auto
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: 47
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: disabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: 220
Long Duration Maintained: 32
Short Duration Power Limit: 220
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Manual
CPU Voltage: 1.35v
DRAM Voltage: auto
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: 1.19375
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: disabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: 47
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Disabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Disabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Disbled
CPU C3 Report: Disabled
CPU C6 Report: Disabled


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 47
> Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
> Memory Frequency: auto
> DRAM Timing Control: auto
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> CPU Ratio: 47
> *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: disabled*
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: 220
> Long Duration Maintained: 32
> Short Duration Power Limit: 220
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Manual
> CPU Voltage: 1.35v
> DRAM Voltage: auto
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: 1.19375
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: disabled
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> CPU Ratio: 47
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Disabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Disabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Disbled
> CPU C3 Report: Disabled
> CPU C6 Report: Disabled


That's not right? I'll keep looking and see if anything else strike's me as odd.

Egnore that, your seem to be running with all the power options off.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> So no one here knows?


Why do you want the P67 chip set? I would suggest the z68 delux/gen3 model if you are going to fork out the money at this point....


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 47
> Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
> Memory Frequency: auto
> DRAM Timing Control: auto
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> CPU Ratio: 47
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: disabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: 220
> Long Duration Maintained: 32
> Short Duration Power Limit: 220
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Manual
> CPU Voltage: 1.35v
> DRAM Voltage: auto
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: 1.19375
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: disabled
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> CPU Ratio: 47
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Disabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Disabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Disbled
> CPU C3 Report: Disabled
> CPU C6 Report: Disabled


Do you really need that high VCCIO?


----------



## Stu-Crossfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 47
> Internal PLL Voltage: Enabled
> Memory Frequency: auto
> DRAM Timing Control: auto
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> CPU Ratio: 47
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: auto
> Long Duration Maintained: auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: auto / offset / 0.040v
> CPU Voltage: 1.35v N/A
> DRAM Voltage: auto
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: 1.10
> CPU PLL Voltage: 1.80v
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: disabled
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> CPU Ratio: 47
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Enabled
> CPU C6 Report: Enabled


Try my edits above.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVILNOK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> I think its vice versa, but you can check it from your mobo manual.
> EDIT: I think you dont even have marvell ports there...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I checked it from ASUS site "Intel® Z68 chipset :
> 2 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), gray
> 4 x SATA 3Gb/s port(s), blue
> Support Raid 0, 1, 5, 10
> Support Intel® Smart Response Technology on 2nd generation Intel® Core™ processor family
> JMicron® JMB362 controller : *3
> 1 x eSATA 3Gb/s port(s), red"
> 
> 
> 
> I have the ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 and I've read and re-read my mobo manual trying to find some mention of Marvell ports. Even in the UEFI BIOS there is no Marvell options. and the asus website spec tab only lists the JMicron® JMB362 controller. I guess mine doesn't even have Marvell ports? That the only conclusion I can come to. EDIT-Doh just saw your edit. Now I don't feel as stupid. I kept telling myself "there has to be Marvell ports here somewhere, you're doing it wrong!" lol.
Click to expand...

not that you have not came to the same conclusion but I would add you should continue to use the Sata III 6g Intel port with that SSD

for best performance to answer your original Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> i need some serious help from you guys. i just got a p8z68-v/gen3 and I cannot get it to hold ANY overclock, not even 100 mhz. Is there something I'm missing? is there a single specific bios setting thats keeping my 2600k at stock?
> 
> 
> 
> clear CMOS and reload "factory defaults" then see if you can use the OC scan tool in the BIOS to OC the chip. Just click on it and it will restart the PC. let it do its thing and then go into windows and see if it gave you an OC or not... That was what I did first time around my chip...then I started to play with the individual settings.
Click to expand...

You will get serious help with OCing your board by reading the 1st three post in this thread. Once you have done so you will realize Overclocking the P67 or Z68 boards is mainly changing the CPU multi and not the Block. There will be other associated changes to the bios that you will need to make which are also illustrated there. Once you have a grasp on the methodology if you have trouble don't hesitate to ask and we will help.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Why do you want the P67 chip set? I would suggest the z68 delux/gen3 model if you are going to fork out the money at this point....


I have a 2550k with no IGPU, so what's the point of the z68?? I have a dedicated graphics and going to be playing high-end gaming anyways.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> I have a 2550k with no IGPU, so what's the point of the z68?? I have a dedicated graphics and going to be playing high-end gaming anyways.


True, but the z68 combines everything from the igpu side and the dedicated graphics side. Also, are those boards supporting PCIe 3.0 ?

That is the main reason. Although, that may not matter. In which case go for it. Was just wondering. To me it seems that the z68 boards are more future proof. Of course in high end pc building that does not mean much.

Also, this link should take you to a side by side comparison of the 2 boards I believe you were asking about originally....

http://usa.asus.com/Compare/

Good luck on making your choice.

At quick glance, the deluxe appears to have a few less features, but newer tech. Not sure. Just glanced at it.


----------



## Jayjr1105

More Z68 boards will be ivy compatible I believe plus they have Gen 3 PCI-e


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> More Z68 boards will be ivy compatible I believe plus they have Gen 3 PCI-e


But wasn't there a review comparison between PCI 3.0 vs the PCI 2.0? There wasn't much difference at all.

@selluminis- Just looked at the links, great comparison break down. Overall I am heading for the EVO. Thanks to you and everyone for the help. Will place my order!









Rep+ to all those to help made my decisions! +++1


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> But wasn't there a review comparison between PCI 3.0 vs the PCI 2.0? There wasn't much difference at all.
> @selluminis- Just looked at the links, great comparison break down. Overall I am heading for the EVO. Thanks to you and everyone for the help. Will place my order!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rep+ to all those to help made my decisions! +++1


They did a comparison, but until you have an ivy chip in the board the pcie 3 will not be active. Once the ivy chips come out, I bet there will be a difference. As far as how much of a difference we will actually be able to see, who knows. I still think it was better to be ready, just in case it is bad ass. Then I do not have to fork out another 200 for a new mobo.

I really wish ASUS would get away from the Blue coloring on these boards too. LOL. Would rather see all black. Something that would go with anyones set up.


----------



## selluminis

Okay, not sure what the hell is going on here. I installed a second GPU. Ever since, my sound card does not appear to be working. I have the creative wrath head set. It works fine. I have removed it. I have disabled all of the nvidea audio. I have uninstalled the onboard sound card and reinstalled it. Cannot figure it out. Any ideas?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> I have a 2550k with no IGPU, so what's the point of the z68?? I have a dedicated graphics and going to be playing high-end gaming anyways.


Z68 OCs MUCH better and much easier


----------



## wickedout

Today I got my USB 3.0 up and running. Just added in my USB 3.0 adapter to my board. Walla works great.


----------



## Name Change

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Z68 OCs MUCH better and much easier


No they don't, you shouldn't notice a difference in OC ability of Z68 and P67.. Only difference you should notice is the cpu and the quality of the mobo you bought
be it P67 or Z68..


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Z68 OCs MUCH better and much easier


mm lol? rationale that.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Z68 OCs MUCH better and much easier


Huh? Really? How so?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Name Change*
> 
> No they don't, you shouldn't notice a difference in OC ability of Z68 and P67.. Only difference you should notice is the cpu and the quality of the mobo you bought
> be it P67 or Z68..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Z68 OCs MUCH better and much easier


They basically have the exact same bios. Will both OC the same.

LOL, I think I used a P67 template for my current OC.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Z68 OCs MUCH better and much easier


In my particular case, no 124 errors with P8P67, and a big battle with them with my P8Z68.... Not saying that's true for everyone though.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> In my particular case, no 124 errors with P8P67, and a big battle with them with my P8Z68.... Not saying that's true for everyone though.


Every board and chip will OC differently too.


----------



## BVM

I was wondering if it would be wise to remove my 2nd GPU (a GT220 running physX) and just let the Lucid chip do its thing switching between integrated and discrete graphics (GTX 460 1gb)? Suggestions?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BVM*
> 
> I was wondering if it would be wise to remove my 2nd GPU (a GT220 running physX) and just let the Lucid chip do its thing switching between integrated and discrete graphics (GTX 460 1gb)? Suggestions?


You might be better just letting the 460 do it all. I would make changes and see what gives best results. Try just the 460. Try the 460 with lucid. Try it with the current set up. Compair results. Use a test like heaven.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Depends what you are using your computer for and what you are using most often.
if you are stirctly looking things up on the internet, or using word programs etc.. (mainly any program that DOES NOT directly need a DirectX call) then i would use LUCID VIRTU and discrete gtx 460.
If you are a gamer (like i am) you might just want to leave LUCID off and go solo with the discrete or just keep both the GTX and GT in there.

LUCID VIRTU pretty much creates 2 drivers and switches between them.. one for no directx calls and one for directx calls...
but i would def. run perforance tests just to make sure..what works for some might not work for others...

I'm strictly running only off of my GTX 580 hydro copper 2 as i have had nothing but problems with LUCID.
but i don't believe this is the case with most people.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Depends what you are using your computer for and what you are using most often.
> if you are stirctly looking things up on the internet, or using word programs etc.. (mainly any program that DOES NOT directly need a DirectX call) then i would use LUCID VIRTU and discrete gtx 460.
> If you are a gamer (like i am) you might just want to leave LUCID off and go solo with the discrete or just keep both the GTX and GT in there.
> LUCID VIRTU pretty much creates 2 drivers and switches between them.. one for no directx calls and one for directx calls...
> but i would def. run perforance tests just to make sure..what works for some might not work for others...
> I'm strictly running only off of my GTX 580 hydro copper 2 as i have had nothing but problems with LUCID.
> but i don't believe this is the case with most people.


There is a video out there that shows if you have a really weak gpu doing physx it will actually hamper the framerate as it creates a bottle neck. I will see if I can find it. The GT in this was not mentioned, so I cannot tell how it will perform. That is why I suggested running the tests.

Let me see if I can dig up that video.


----------



## tr4zz0id

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2291591

P8Z68-V LE


----------



## Dunx2011

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2291716

P8Z68-V Pro


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dunx2011*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2291716
> 
> P8Z68-V Pro


Please use the form in the OP. Thank you.


----------



## selluminis

Here is that video about physx GPUS.






Also, anyone have an ideas about my audio issues above?


----------



## Dunx2011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Please use the form in the OP. Thank you.


Sorry made a hash of the first form have submitted it again


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Here is that video about physx GPUS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, anyone have an ideas about my audio issues above?


Auto PCI Expressx16_3 slot (Black) bandwidth should be set to Auto by default and work fine because it defaults to X1 mode however you may need to play with it because if it default to X4 mode USB devices may become disabled especially if attached to a 3.0 port and manually selecting x1 may produce a better result. Assuming everything is set to auto and you are using PCIe_1 & PCIe_2 for SLI and no other PCIe device is attached to PCIe_3 default settings should be fine. For that matter there should be no need to disable Nvidia Audio unless you have an HDMI cable attached and don't want to pass audio so again default Nvidia driver setting should be fine for your setup the same would be true for Realtek you simply should not need to augment there settings. However I would go into your Headphone properties click the advanced tab and uncheck "Allow application to take exclusive control of this device" click apply then OK. All that said I would bet your in-game audio needs a bit of tweaking. *While in-game* alt+tab out to desktop then left click on the speaker icon in the notification area of the task bar in the resulting dialog left click Mixer in the resulting dialog scroll right and left and check all sliders there will likely be a slider which is game specific that is set to low or muted. Try that and see if it helps. GL


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Auto PCI Expressx16_3 slot (Black) bandwidth should be set to Auto by default and work fine because it defaults to X1 mode however you may need to play with it because if it default to X4 mode USB devices may become disabled especially if attached to a 3.0 port and manually selecting x1 may produce a better result. Assuming everything is set to auto and you are using PCIe_1 & PCIe_2 for SLI and no other PCIe device is attached to PCIe_3 default settings should be fine. For that matter there should be no need to disable Nvidia Audio unless you have an HDMI cable attached and don't want to pass audio so again default Nvidia driver setting should be fine for your setup the same would be true for Realtek you simply should not need to augment there settings. However I would go into your Headphone properties click the advanced tab and uncheck "Allow application to take exclusive control of this device" click apply then OK. All that said I would bet your in-game audio needs a bit of tweaking. *While in-game* alt+tab out to desktop then left click on the speaker icon in the notification area of the task bar in the resulting dialog left click Mixer in the resulting dialog scroll right and left and check all sliders there will likely be a slider which is game specific that is set to low or muted. Try that and see if it helps. GL


Thanks for the responce. I have already checked all of that...







I have completly uninstalled the headset drivers and dis con it. The PCI slots are all set to run as they should. I forgot to mention that I was an ID10T and did not discharge my mobo and left the power plugged in when I installed the new card. Thinking back, I heard a couple of pops in the speakers as I was working on it. I have a feeling that I may have blown something. I will double check all of this tonight.


----------



## MooMoo

Oww man my eyes, they messed up the font in BIOS after I updated to 2302 from 2103


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Here is that video about physx GPUS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, anyone have an ideas about my audio issues above?


What kind of power supply do you have running?
what ports are you running the SLI or crossfire at? (1 and 2 i'm assuming)
and audio port in 3 i'm assuming?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

I have a P8Z68 Deluxe GEN/3 motherboard and was
wondering if anyone has taken the stock heatsinks off
and placed full liquid cooling setup on their motherboard (including z68 chipset)
If so was the end result worth the extra hassle..
i have an extra 360 XSPC Performance Rad with 3 Triebwerk (3000 rpm , 210c) fans
and was either going to save it for another build or add it to my current (as i will be adding and extra
hydro copper 2 (3g) to my current rig in the not so distant future and was wondering if my current cooling loop can take it.).

my current loop consists of a 360 radiator (3 scythe 5400 rpm fans) with a 140 performance rad (1800 rpm fan)
cooling my 2700k and gtx 580 hydro copper 2.

i'm currently at CPU = 19*C idle and 50 at 100%load
mobo is 26*C to 30*C for the most of the time no matter what.
at 4.5ghz at 1.35v


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I have a P8Z68 Deluxe GEN/3 motherboard and was
> wondering if anyone has taken the stock heatsinks off
> and placed full liquid cooling setup on their motherboard (including z68 chipset)
> If so was the end result worth the extra hassle..
> i have an extra 360 XSPC Performance Rad with 3 Triebwerk (3000 rpm , 210c) fans
> and was either going to save it for another build or add it to my current (as i will be adding and extra
> hydro copper 2 (3g) to my current rig in the not so distant future and was wondering if my current cooling loop can take it.).
> my current loop consists of a 360 radiator (3 scythe 5400 rpm fans) with a 140 performance rad (1800 rpm fan)
> cooling my 2700k and gtx 580 hydro copper 2.
> i'm currently at CPU = 19*C idle and 50 at 100%load
> mobo is 26*C to 30*C for the most of the time no matter what.
> at 4.5ghz at 1.35v


From what I can tell there is no need to cool this mobo with water at all, unless your situation/overclock are very extreme. I am also doing a water loop and plan on cooling the board just for giggles, I am pushing 5.0 with no ill effect on nothing but air..I just want the bling lulz. I have been looking at blocks for my mobo and have only found one set that "should" work.

These or These mind you you can buy each of the parts separate too. These are the only one's advertising to fit our z68 board I have found. Heatkiller says that the p68 blocks work for our z68 but no other company says that and others say that z68 blocks will not fit a z68 board so I don't know. I'm very intrested if anyone know of other blocks though.


----------



## munaim1

For those having issue's viewing the entire spreadsheet, I have added a direct link to it


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> What kind of power supply do you have running?
> what ports are you running the SLI or crossfire at? (1 and 2 i'm assuming)
> and audio port in 3 i'm assuming?


Sli in 1 and 2. Using on board audio.


----------



## Daffie82

Hi Guys

Got a little question.
I am using a P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 with Bios 3101 in combination with i5 2500K cooled by Scythe Mugen 2 Rev B
I am using the auto overclock feature of the board which puts the bus speed to 103mhz and the multiplier to 42 which gives me a max turbo mode of 4,3 Ghz
Is it perfectly safe and stable to just increase the multiplier (without changing any other setting) from 42 to 44 to reach a turbo mode of 4,5 Ghz ?

Any help is very much appreciated !!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Hi Guys
> Got a little question.
> I am using a P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 with Bios 3101 in combination with i5 2500K cooled by Scythe Mugen 2 Rev B
> I am using the auto overclock feature of the board which puts the bus speed to 103mhz and the multiplier to 42 which gives me a max turbo mode of 4,3 Ghz
> Is it perfectly safe and stable to just increase the multiplier (without changing any other setting) from 42 to 44 to reach a turbo mode of 4,5 Ghz ?
> Any help is very much appreciated !!


I would read through the threads here to find the answer to that. Lots of very use ful info. Generally, when you oc past the turbo you will have to make changes. I think you have to be in manual anyway to even start ocing.

It is apparent that you have little XP with this product. Read up before you do anything else.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Hi Guys
> Got a little question.
> I am using a P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 with Bios 3101 in combination with i5 2500K cooled by Scythe Mugen 2 Rev B
> I am using the auto overclock feature of the board which puts the bus speed to 103mhz and the multiplier to 42 which gives me a max turbo mode of 4,3 Ghz
> Is it perfectly safe and stable to just increase the multiplier (without changing any other setting) from 42 to 44 to reach a turbo mode of 4,5 Ghz ?
> Any help is very much appreciated !!


Don't use auto overclock, its bad. Change BLCK back to 100mhz and set your multipliers to where you want them.
"Is it perfectly safe and stable to just increase the multiplier" Doing like that, you leave voltage to auto and it tends to overvoltage itself and by that it makes more heat (too much heat = dead cpu) so I would suggest you to put offset voltage or manual there.

This is good info where to start reading: http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet


----------



## dartuil

hello how can i enable the onboard gpu?


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> hello how can i enable the onboard gpu?


From your BIOS. You also should got manual there.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Has anyone experimented running multi monitor set ups with a combo of discrete GPU and the onboard GPU? Thinking about moving my second lower rez monitor to it to remove some strain from my GPU while gaming. Would it be worth it in a non eyefinity/surround set up? I use the second monitor only to watch movies or surf the net, never anything to demanding.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Don't use auto overclock, its bad. Change BLCK back to 100mhz and set your multipliers to where you want them.
> "Is it perfectly safe and stable to just increase the multiplier" Doing like that, you leave voltage to auto and it tends to overvoltage itself and by that it makes more heat (too much heat = dead cpu) so I would suggest you to put offset voltage or manual there.
> This is good info where to start reading: http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet


Thanks for the info
The auto overclock feature of my board is not so bad from what I have read on the internet.
It changed the voltage to offset but it did change the BLCK to 103mhz.

I have found a thread on the net to overclock to 4.5Ghz in a few simple changes and it worked.
BLCK 100mhz now, multiplier 45 and voltage to 1.350.
Still have to check in prime95 if it holds up and after that I can try and lower the voltage.

Any settings i should definately check for my motherboard apart from the obvious ones like blck, multiplier, cpu and ram voltage, ram timings ?

Also, I do not have the latest BIOS version (using the one before that, there were 2 fast releases from asus). Should I upgrade to the latest anyway?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

I have a P8Z68 Pro with a 2600K. Right now I have a 6 hour stable overclock under prime95 at 5.016GHz. I know there must be something messed up, I know turbo mode is disabled, but other than that, I cant figure out why my CPU is stuck running at 5GHz. My idle is staying higher because of this.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> I have a P8Z68 Pro with a 2600K. Right now I have a 6 hour stable overclock under prime95 at 5.016GHz. I know there must be something messed up, I know turbo mode is disabled, but other than that, I cant figure out why my CPU is stuck running at 5GHz. My idle is staying higher because of this.


Check your power options in windows and make sure it is set to balanced.


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Windows power options hasn't changed. I keep it on High Performance. I just recently today did this overclock manually in bios instead of AI's automatic overclocking. I just can't get it to slow down! lol


----------



## dodgers2213

hey guys, i'm new here. Just built a phantom PC with an Asus p8Z68 v Pro Gen 3 board with an i5 2500k. Well I spent a lot of time building it, had a few heart attacks, but almost everything is working great. Installed drivers which took a long time for a fresh install of windows (asus website, intel chipset, nvidia 560ti drivers, etc).
I am having a problem though. It seems Windows is having trouble recognizing my USB flash drives (to transfer over data from my old computer). I tried for a few hours looking for fixes (power down computer, unplug from PSU, wait, plug PSU and power on. Tried disabling power options that disable usb ports). I'm hoping i can get some help

My mouse and keyboard are USB and work find, and in different plugs including in USB 3.0 ports, but when i try to plug in a flash drive windows can't recognized device (code 43 in device manager)


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

I'm not entirely sure what fixed my issue, but I reconfigured the system so my turbo boost multiplier was x48, disabled C3 and C6 and now I can go as low as 1.6 Ghz and max to 5.019Ghz. Temps are much better now.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Has anyone experimented running multi monitor set ups with a combo of discrete GPU and the onboard GPU? Thinking about moving my second lower rez monitor to it to remove some strain from my GPU while gaming. Would it be worth it in a non eyefinity/surround set up? I use the second monitor only to watch movies or surf the net, never anything to demanding.


Is that even possible? I've though not, dunno then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Thanks for the info
> The auto overclock feature of my board is not so bad from what I have read on the internet.
> It changed the voltage to offset but it did change the BLCK to 103mhz.
> I have found a thread on the net to overclock to 4.5Ghz in a few simple changes and it worked.
> BLCK 100mhz now, multiplier 45 and voltage to 1.350.
> Still have to check in prime95 if it holds up and after that I can try and lower the voltage.
> Any settings i should definately check for my motherboard apart from the obvious ones like blck, multiplier, cpu and ram voltage, ram timings ?
> Also, I do not have the latest BIOS version (using the one before that, there were 2 fast releases from asus). Should I upgrade to the latest anyway?
> Thanks for the help.


You could get that voltage even lower, its individual how much voltage you need, every chip is little different.
You should reset your settings to default and then change those settings to get overclock, because maybe auto OC left some settings there and there could come problems later, if you havent done that yet.
You don't have to upgrade your BIOS if you dont have any problems, but I would upgrade it to the little newer (if you have same mobo as I do, then I would upgrade it to the second latest '2103' because newest haves messed up font and someones have problems with it), dont know what motherboard you have, fill your system info here http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> You could get that voltage even lower, its individual how much voltage you need, every chip is little different.
> You should reset your settings to default and then change those settings to get overclock, because maybe auto OC left some settings there and there could come problems later, if you havent done that yet.
> You don't have to upgrade your BIOS if you dont have any problems, but I would upgrade it to the little newer (if you have same mobo as I do, then I would upgrade it to the second latest '2103' because newest haves messed up font and someones have problems with it), dont know what motherboard you have, fill your system info here http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG


Thanks for your advice.
I have my rig filled in, you can see it under my profile (I think).
I have an ASUS p8z68-V Pro Gen3, running BIOS 3101, while 3202 is the latest one.
I have noted down the most important settings of my overclock.
I would appreciated if you could look at it and share your advice (keeping in mind the hardware I am using ofcourse)
i5 2500K with Scythe Mugen 2 Rev B.

- load-line calibration : high (50%)
- vrm freq : auto
- phase control : extreme
- duty control : T.Probe
- cpu current cap : 100%
- cpu voltage : manual to 1.350
- dram voltage : 1.50000
- all other voltages (including cpu pll voltage) : AUTO
- multiplier : 45
- blck : 100
- ram timings : filled in timing of my ram (9-9-9-24-2T)
- ram speed : manually set to DDR31600 (speed of my ram)
- enhanced intel speedstep tech : enabled
- turbo mode : enabled
- high precision timer : enabled
- intel adaptive thermal monitor : enabled
- cpu c1e : auto
- cpu c3 report : auto
- cpu c6 report : enabled
- CPU Spread Spectrum : auto

Any feedback on these settings where I can still improve is very welcome!
I know I can still lower voltage probably, but first I would like to have all others things setup correctly.


----------



## owcraftsman

No time like the present I thought would share my 13.5hr Prime stable 4.6 overclock. It's not a huge OC but takes full advantage of the power saving features the board has to offer with a medium grade overclocking 2600k. There are many procs out there that take less voltage to accomplish the same thing but there are many more of us who'll have to use my setting or higher voltage to accomplish the same thing. These same setting will likely work with a 2500k as well however you will not have hyper-threading. All relevant settings are listed below and a screen shot for proof. I think I'll head over to the Sandy Stable club to join.

*** System Specs ***

Asus P8Z68-V Pro Bios Ver: 1101

Cooling: XSPC RayStorm, & Dual Bay Res w/DDC 355,

TFC 240 X-Changer, PrimoChill Red 1/2"IDx3/4"OD tubing,

Distilled Water w/silver coil, & 2x GT-AP-15 fans (Pull)

Top Mount RAD in HAF 932 Advanced 3.0 case

OS: W7U x64 SP1

*** Ai Tweaker ***

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual

BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100

Turbo Ratio: By All Cores

By All Cores: x46

Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled

Memory Freq: 1600

DRAM Timing Control: 9-9-9-24-CR1

EPU Power Saving Mode: Enabled

EPU Setting Mode: Max Power

*** Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management> ***

CPU Ratio: Auto

Enhanced Intel Speed Step Tecnology: Enabled

Turbo Mode: Enabled

Long Duration Power Limit: Auto

Long Duration Maintained: Auto

Short Duration Power Limit: Auto

Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto

Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

*** Ai Tweaker\ (in the Digi+ VRM section) ***

Load Line Calibration: Ultra High

VRM Frequency: 350

Phase Control: Extreme

Duty Control: Extreme

CPU Current Capability: 140%

CPU Voltage: Offset Mode

Offset Mode Sign: ( - )

CPU Offset Voltage: 0.010

DRAM Voltage: 1.65000v

VCCIO Voltage: 1.10000v

CPU PLL Voltage: 1.60000v

PCH Voltage: Auto

CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled

*** Advanced\ CPU Configuration> ***

CPU Ratio: Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled

Hyper-Threading: Enabled

Active Processor Cores: All

Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled

Execute Disable Bit: Enabled

Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled

Turbo Mode: Enabled

CPU C1E: Enabled

CPU C3 Report: Disabled

CPU C6 Report: Disabled


----------



## owcraftsman

sorry dbl post


----------



## Catscratch

My P8P67 Evo is back from RMA and it's supposed to be fixed. Up and running as it should at the moment. I don't know how they fixed USB 2.0 ports and Realtek ethernet port but they are working fine now.

The bios is back to 1502. And weird XMP profile properly works now, normally i would get random instability requiring cutting power and restarting. This time I'm not updating Bios unless I run into problems which is the original method of updating bios or drivers.

btw, I forgot about cpu-z validation and all that stuff. Here:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2295255


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Thanks for your advice.
> I have my rig filled in, you can see it under my profile (I think).
> I have an ASUS p8z68-V Pro Gen3, running BIOS 3101, while 3202 is the latest one.
> I have noted down the most important settings of my overclock.
> I would appreciated if you could look at it and share your advice (keeping in mind the hardware I am using ofcourse)
> i5 2500K with Scythe Mugen 2 Rev B.
> - load-line calibration : high (50%)
> - vrm freq : *auto <-- to manual 350*
> - phase control : extreme
> - duty control : *T.Probe <--- Extreme*
> - cpu current cap : *100% <--- 140%*
> - cpu voltage : *manual to 1.350 <--- if you want, you could mess with that and get it lower, same time temps would drop, or if you dont want to keep it all the time that high voltage, use offset*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - dram voltage : 1.50000
> - all other voltages (including cpu pll voltage) : AUTO
> - multiplier : 45
> - blck : 100
> - ram timings : filled in timing of my ram (9-9-9-24-2T)
> - ram speed : manually set to DDR31600 (speed of my ram)
> - enhanced intel speedstep tech : enabled
> - turbo mode : enabled
> - high precision timer : enabled
> - intel adaptive thermal monitor : enabled
> - cpu c1e : *auto <--- enabled*
> - cpu c3 report : *auto <--- enabled*
> - cpu c6 report : enabled
> - CPU Spread Spectrum : enabled
> Any feedback on these settings where I can still improve is very welcome!
> I know I can still lower voltage probably, but first I would like to have all others things setup correctly.


That seems otherwise fine but I would change those which I've bolded in black.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Thanks for your advice.
> I have my rig filled in, you can see it under my profile (I think).
> I have an ASUS p8z68-V Pro Gen3, running BIOS 3101, while 3202 is the latest one.
> I have noted down the most important settings of my overclock.
> I would appreciated if you could look at it and share your advice (keeping in mind the hardware I am using ofcourse)
> i5 2500K with Scythe Mugen 2 Rev B.
> - load-line calibration : high (50%)
> - vrm freq : auto -> *manual : 350*
> - phase control : extreme -> *Optimized + EPU changed from disabled to enabled and set to auto*
> - duty control : T.Probe -> *extreme*
> - cpu current cap : 100% -> *110%*
> - cpu voltage : manual to 1.350 -> *Offset - 0,030*
> - dram voltage : 1.50000
> - all other voltages (including cpu pll voltage) : AUTO
> - multiplier : 45
> - blck : 100
> - ram timings : filled in timing of my ram (9-9-9-24-2T)
> - ram speed : manually set to DDR31600 (speed of my ram)
> - enhanced intel speedstep tech : enabled
> - turbo mode : enabled
> - high precision timer : enabled
> - intel adaptive thermal monitor : enabled
> - cpu c1e : auto
> - cpu c3 report : auto
> - cpu c6 report : enabled
> - CPU Spread Spectrum : auto
> Any feedback on these settings where I can still improve is very welcome!
> I know I can still lower voltage probably, but first I would like to have all others things setup correctly.


Sorry to quote myself but I am trying to learn fast here








I have read that setting cpu voltage to offset mode will keep the voltage low when idle.
So I have changed some settings to reflect this (changes marked in bold).
In Core Temp I saw my VID at 1.3711 V So I set Offset to -0,030 to reach around 1.340 voltage.

I ran prime95 blend test for about 45 minutes and here are some readings with HWiNFO :
- clocks between 4.499,3-4.501,2 mhz
- temp gets to 64 degrees max
- vcore fluctuates between 1,312v - 1,328v
- cpu pll is constant @ 1,800 V
- DDR constant @ 1,500 V
- CPU Package power fluctuates between 85,623W - 90,704W

When idling speed drops to 1600mhz and core voltage fluctuates between 0,936V - 0,960V

Are these readings any good? And are there still BIOS settings which are wrong or could be altered to something better?
remember I am happy with my 4,5 Ghz overclock, no need to go further. Just want to make sure everything is set up as best as possible.

Thx in advance for any feedback !


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> That seems otherwise fine but I would change those which I've bolded in black.


THX ALOT for your reply !
Seems our posts have crossed abit !








Can you check my new post please? As you can see I already did some changes you requested








Only real difference is the EPU setting and the phase control setting. I changed it like this because I have read in owcraftsman's post (same page) this will save power, but ofcourse please correct if I am wrong or if this makes no sense.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Sorry to quote myself but I am trying to learn fast here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have read that setting cpu voltage to offset mode will keep the voltage low when idle.
> So I have changed some settings to reflect this (changes marked in bold).
> In Core Temp I saw my VID at 1.3711 V So I set Offset to -0,030 to reach around 1.340 voltage.
> I ran prime95 blend test for about 45 minutes and here are some readings with HWiNFO :
> - clocks between 4.499,3-4.501,2 mhz
> - temp gets to 64 degrees max
> - vcore fluctuates between 1,312v - 1,328v
> - cpu pll is constant @ 1,800 V
> - DDR constant @ 1,500 V
> - CPU Package power fluctuates between 85,623W - 90,704W
> When idling speed drops to 1600mhz and core voltage fluctuates between 0,936V - 0,960V
> Are these readings any good? And are there still BIOS settings which are wrong or could be altered to something better?
> remember I am happy with my 4,5 Ghz overclock, no need to go further. Just want to make sure everything is set up as best as possible.
> Thx in advance for any feedback !


Well those readings look good. Did you read that VID when you had no OC, it should do when you dont have any overclock in, but if it works, then there should be no problem








Im not really sure about "-vrm freq, phase control, duty control, cpu current cap" stuff, I've just read that 'everyone' else had it that way and it worked on me. Not sure about EPU, everybody set it disabled and when I've read reviews about EPU it seems useless (~doesn't save power at all) anyway.
Theres rep button too


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Well those readings look good. Did you read that VID when you had no OC, it should do when you dont have any overclock in, but if it works, then there should be no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not really sure about "-vrm freq, phase control, duty control, cpu current cap" stuff, I've just read that 'everyone' else had it that way and it worked on me. Not sure about EPU, everybody set it disabled and when I've read reviews about EPU it seems useless (~doesn't save power at all) anyway.
> Theres rep button too


Thanks alot for your help again +rep








I have read the VID when I already had OC I am afraid








Should I save my current settings to profile, go back to default and check the VID again?
cpu current cap I'll just leave at 110%, bit worried about unneeded high temps if setting to 140%

Any other experienced people around here know something more about the phase control settings in combination with EPU ?
I guess I will just leave it at optimized and EPU to enabled on auto mode for now, unless someone thinks it is bad ofcourse









EDIT: forgot to ask : should I update my BIOS to latest version? Using 3101 atm...
EDIT 2: spread spectrum is set now to AUTO, not to enabled like I said earlier. I guess AUTO is fine also?


----------



## dodgers2213

is it possible for my new rig to have fried all my usb devices? because all of a sudden, all my computers are not recognizing devices that used to work. The 3 following things that worked are now not recognizable to any computers in my house: A corsair flash voyager 16gb usb 3.0 (brand new), some sandisk 2 GB flash, and even my USB charger for my phone (charges but cant be used as data drive)

all 3, that went into my new rig, now do not work on my old computer, a lenovo all in one m90z with windows 7 pro, or my parents Gateway with windows 7 home premium.

I tried plugging all the the devices into my freaking xbox as well and not a goddamn thing. seriously what the hell is going on


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Thanks alot for your help again +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have read the VID when I already had OC I am afraid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I save my current settings to profile, go back to default and check the VID again?
> cpu current cap I'll just leave at 110%, bit worried about unneeded high temps if setting to 140%
> Any other experienced people around here know something more about the phase control settings in combination with EPU ?
> I guess I will just leave it at optimized and EPU to enabled on auto mode for now, unless someone thinks it is bad ofcourse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: forgot to ask : should I update my BIOS to latest version? Using 3101 atm...


If it runs fine and you dont have too high temp (and you dont) you are fine with it, but you maybe could cut it lower. Don't get scared if it doesnt boot when you cut it too much, then just bump it little bit til you are stable








You dont have to update your BIOS, unless you have some troubles with it, if you do update you should first read if someone else haves troubles with that new update (like system wont boot anymore). But to me these "1.Improve system stability.
2.Improve memory compatibility.
3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: " looks nice and I would update it. Nothing special but I personally like stuff updated


----------



## wickedout

Are these good temps for my overclock with this board? I used Intel burn test at max.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Are these good temps for my overclock with this board? I used Intel burn test at max.


I think yes, I get sameish, about 3c more plussed on my temps with that voltage. And im using mighty Thermalright Ultra 120


----------



## wickedout

I'm using the Corsair H100 and seems to do the job well.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> If it runs fine and you dont have too high temp (and you dont) you are fine with it, but you maybe could cut it lower. Don't get scared if it doesnt boot when you cut it too much, then just bump it little bit til you are stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You dont have to update your BIOS, unless you have some troubles with it, if you do update you should first read if someone else haves troubles with that new update (like system wont boot anymore). But to me these "1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Improve memory compatibility.
> 3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: " looks nice and I would update it. Nothing special but I personally like stuff updated


Thanks again for your help.
Have you read my ''edit 2'' about spread spectrum ?
Thx !


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Are these good temps for my overclock with this board? I used Intel burn test at max.


It looks like you took a screen shot in between a run when the temps dip down in the 60's. Temps are kind of high for 4.7 and an H100 cooler to be honest. What is your LLC set at? Extreme LLC will cook your cpu pretty good during IBT's.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Check your power options in windows and make sure it is set to balanced.


No, don't change that to Balanced. Keep it on High Performance. Look at your motherboard settings and set them in this way:

Intel Speedstep: Enabled

CPU C1E: Enabled

CPU C3 Report: Disabled

CPU C6 Report: Disabled

NOTE: Make sure to change to "ENABLED" not "AUTO". This has been a problem for a couple of users for a long time already. I had the same problem initially.


----------



## chillidog

personlly i think your temps are a bit high for 4.7
if you can try lowering your core voltage down abit. for 4.7 you should be around 1.36-1.38.may be lower
ie am running 24/7 on 4.9 at 1.40 and my temps are on highest 74 for a 2500k. i have run 5.0 at 1.44 and the temp went up to 76-78 at max
all ran ok on a h70


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> It looks like you took a screen shot in between a run when the temps dip down in the 60's. Temps are kind of high for 4.7 and an H100 cooler to be honest. What is your LLC set at? Extreme LLC will cook your cpu pretty good during IBT's.


That shot was taken at full speed! It's 1.40 vcore and it's stable. I could most likely raise my clock up to 5.0 GHz. but my temps would go up and so would my vcore. 1.40 is a safe vcore imo! It's stable and that's all that matters!


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> That shot was taken at full speed! It's 1.40 vcore and it's stable. I could most likely raise my clock up to 5.0 GHz. but my temps would go up and so would my vcore. 1.40 is a safe vcore imo! It's stable and that's all that matters!


Actually its not in full speed, its chaning the run to another and it spikes down, thats why the temps drop.
To others there is also that maximum temp down there









Its also all about the chip, I need atleast that 1.4v to get 4.7GHz. So it doesnt look high to me.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> That shot was taken at full speed! It's 1.40 vcore and it's stable. I could most likely raise my clock up to 5.0 GHz. but my temps would go up and so would my vcore. 1.40 is a safe vcore imo! It's stable and that's all that matters!


I understand it looks like it's full speed but with the Intel Burn Test there are small segments in between runs that the cpu looks like its at 100% but the temps drop down to somewhere in the 60's. Run the test again and watch Real Temp carefully. You will see during the heart of a run it will crank up to the 80's in temperature. You can make IBT more efficient by adjusting your LLC to medium or high, using less offset voltage and more "additional turbo voltage"


----------



## Mercyflush64

IBT is such an extreme test that it should not be used as a comparison benchmark. Nobody in the everyday world will ever push their system to the limits this test uses and you could actually do some permanent damage if you go into it and your system is not setup and cooled properly. Other testing is ok for showing a stable setup for bragging rights on the internet but the real test is to just use your system and if you crash then adjust accordingly. I have never had a BSOD outside of stress testing in my everyday operations. That tells me I have a stable setup., not what a generic testing software tells me.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> That shot was taken at full speed! It's 1.40 vcore and it's stable. I could most likely raise my clock up to 5.0 GHz. but my temps would go up and so would my vcore. 1.40 is a safe vcore imo! It's stable and that's all that matters!


you asked if yor temps was ok with your oc,i replied to say that to me your temps seem to be on the high side for 4.7oc .it is possible to lower your vcore a bit more to get your temps down only if your system will take it.
but on another note: using ibt you will get higher temps anyway.have you tried prime? you should find that with prime your temps will show lower .
when i did mine oc @5.0 i could be stable using ibt but failed on prime .
but i have also noticed you only ran 5 runs you should try at least 10


----------



## alancsalt

I though it was LinX that was too brutal, and that IBT was a tamer version of linpack? Ah well, in normal use you won't get up to the temperatures stress testers can get you to, and they are still only a guide rather than a guarantee. You can pass stress tests and then bsod at idle later....sometimes a particular program can bring on a crash. If you had never installed it you would never encounter the problem....


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> You can make IBT more efficient by adjusting your LLC to medium or high, using less offset voltage and more "additional turbo voltage"


Where and how is this "additional turbo voltage" being shown on my ASUS motherboard?
Thx !


----------



## chillidog

totally agree with you on IBT is such an extreme test
this is just a sample i ran ibt on high and 10 runs it took 4 mins to finish and the temps maxed out at 87 on one core and then did prime test and ran that at 9 mins 34 sec's and the max temp reached at that time was 76
it just show the differnce between the two stress programs ibt is more brutal than prime


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Where and how is this "additional turbo voltage" being shown on my ASUS motherboard?
> Thx !


It should be under CPU power management settings in the BIOS. Some newer BIOS revisions of the P8Z68 boards had that option removed for whatever reason so If you don't see it, don't bother with it until a new BIOS release brings it back. Heard a few stories of people bricking boards trying to get that option back after a newer BIOS flash removed it.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> It should be under CPU power management settings in the BIOS. Some newer BIOS revisions of the P8Z68 boards had that option removed for whatever reason so If you don't see it, don't bother with it until a new BIOS release brings it back. Heard a few stories of people bricking boards trying to get that option back after a newer BIOS flash removed it.


One failure of the rollback method here, attributed to changed uefi, but what about this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chi09es*
> 
> Yes, you can hot swap in windows, although it would be better to startup in dos and use bupdater. (make a bootable dos strartup disk on flash drive)
> Also you can buy a pre-programmed BIOS chip for your board on ebay. Cost 10-15 $. (the bios chip is a small pdip8 located next to the light blue Marvell Sata port and can simply lifted out with the use of small screwdriver.
> Best option is to buy an EEPROM programmer that supports the bios chip. (Winbond W25Q64BVAIG) E.G. the SEEPROM. This gives you the option to upgrade, downgrade bios at will and experiment with changing modules without the risk of bricking your bios.
> chi09es.


----------



## selluminis

If I am switching to a different motherboard, is there any way to do it with out having to reinstall windows? Basically, every time I have change motherboards, I have had to install windows over again.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> It should be under CPU power management settings in the BIOS. Some newer BIOS revisions of the P8Z68 boards had that option removed for whatever reason so If you don't see it, don't bother with it until a new BIOS release brings it back. Heard a few stories of people bricking boards trying to get that option back after a newer BIOS flash removed it.


Thanks alot +rep !,
I dont have the option on my BIOS (3101)
Is this option back on in BIOS 3202 ? Somebody could check this please?


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> If I am switching to a different motherboard, is there any way to do it with out having to reinstall windows? Basically, every time I have change motherboards, I have had to install windows over again.


There are ways around it. If you switch to a similar chipset board for example z68 to another z68 you may not have to reinstall a thing other than re-activating Windows. You can also use driver sweeper and completely wipe your system of all drivers (drivers are what typically cause blue screens after a motherboard swap) then reload them when you use the new motherboard. AMD has it easy on this subject... you can basically swap out any AMD board as long as you are using AHCI and never have to worry about problems. Unfortunately Intel has less universal drivers for chipset, NIC, etc.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> There are ways around it. If you switch to a similar chipset board for example z68 to another z68 you may not have to reinstall a thing other than re-activating Windows. You can also use driver sweeper and completely wipe your system of all drivers (drivers are what typically cause blue screens after a motherboard swap) then reload them when you use the new motherboard. AMD has it easy on this subject... you can basically swap out any AMD board as long as you are using AHCI and never have to worry about problems. Unfortunately Intel has less universal drivers for chipset, NIC, etc.


Cool. I will check it out. +rep.


----------



## diecast

I just bought the following:

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Intel i5 2500K
Crucial M4 64GB SSD

Which will go in a HAF 922 with Corsair 520HX.

I have a couple questions. I want to overclock to around 4.5GHz and will be running Ubuntu Linux.

Should I first install Windows 7 on an extra HDD and do some break-in tests on the overclocking?

The Asus software won't be available in Linux so is this going to be a problem when overclocking and throttling down or is that all set in the UEFI and doesn't need software to manage?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diecast*
> 
> I just bought the following:
> ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> Intel i5 2500K
> Crucial M4 64GB SSD
> Which will go in a HAF 922 with Corsair 520HX.
> I have a couple questions. I want to overclock to around 4.5GHz and will be running Ubuntu Linux.
> Should I first install Windows 7 on an extra HDD and do some break-in tests on the overclocking?
> The Asus software won't be available in Linux so is this going to be a problem when overclocking and throttling down or is that all set in the UEFI and doesn't need software to manage?


Most of ASUS's pre packaged software is useless. I don't use it. The BIOS handles the overclocking and the throttling down at least for the CPU. GPU's need some sort of program to tweak the settings. I far as I know there is no reason to even load windows if you want to run ubuntu. There are stress test's and everything you need for that OS.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Is this option back on in BIOS 3202 ? Somebody could check this please?


Seems the option is NOT back on BIOS 3202 !
Source : http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f219/asus-p8z68-v-gen3-p8z68-v-pro-gen3-p8z68-deluxe-gen3-intel-z68-810782-192.html#post18506017


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diecast*
> 
> I just bought the following:
> ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> Intel i5 2500K
> Crucial M4 64GB SSD
> Which will go in a HAF 922 with Corsair 520HX.
> I have a couple questions. I want to overclock to around 4.5GHz and will be running Ubuntu Linux.
> Should I first install Windows 7 on an extra HDD and do some break-in tests on the overclocking?
> The Asus software won't be available in Linux so is this going to be a problem when overclocking and throttling down or is that all set in the UEFI and doesn't need software to manage?


Get this.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146089


----------



## kristink041180

Hi everyone I am new to OverClock.net but I have a few issues with my new build. I will try to give as much specs as possible:

Case: Corsair Carbide 400R
Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500k
Graphics: EVGA Geforce GTX 550 Ti
Memory: 8GB (I will get the model later)
HD: Western Digital WD1002FAEX 1TB Caviar Black Hard Drive - 1TB, 7200RPM, 64MB, SATA 6Gbs
SSD: OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-60G 2.5" 60GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
CPU Cooler: Artic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
PSU: Silverstone Strider Gold 80 Plus

I seem to be having several issues with my system. One seems to be I can't install Linux. It seems to get as far as detecting USB devices and just sits there after that doing nothing at all.

The second issue is with USB3. I had plugged two devices into the rear USB3 and neither one got drivers installed properly until I plugged them into USB2 Ports. Also my front USB3 ports have major issues

When I plug a new device in the front USB3 ports and it hasn't been used yet then my system just sits there and hangs. If I force a shutdown (hold power) and then turn it back on with device plugged in then it gets recognized no issue. Anyone have any ideas on these issues?


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kristink041180*
> 
> Hi everyone I am new to OverClock.net but I have a few issues with my new build. I will try to give as much specs as possible:
> Case: Corsair Carbide 400R
> Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3
> CPU: Intel Core i5-2500k
> Graphics: EVGA Geforce GTX 550 Ti
> Memory: 8GB (I will get the model later)
> HD: Western Digital WD1002FAEX 1TB Caviar Black Hard Drive - 1TB, 7200RPM, 64MB, SATA 6Gbs
> SSD: OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-60G 2.5" 60GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
> CPU Cooler: Artic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
> PSU: Silverstone Strider Gold 80 Plus
> I seem to be having several issues with my system. One seems to be I can't install Linux. It seems to get as far as detecting USB devices and just sits there after that doing nothing at all.
> The second issue is with USB3. I had plugged two devices into the rear USB3 and neither one got drivers installed properly until I plugged them into USB2 Ports. Also my front USB3 ports have major issues
> When I plug a new device in the front USB3 ports and it hasn't been used yet then my system just sits there and hangs. If I force a shutdown (hold power) and then turn it back on with device plugged in then it gets recognized no issue. Anyone have any ideas on these issues?


Have you installed newest drivers? Updated BIOS?


----------



## kristink041180

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Have you installed newest drivers? Updated BIOS?


I updated the BIOS a week ago but I only just updated the USB3 drivers and the JMICRON drivers about an hour ago


----------



## nawon72

Ive been getting random idle BSOD 1-2 weeks after i got my new memory and OCed it. The last BSOD occured ~30min after leaving idle before going to bed, but the minidump didn't save. The other BSOD also occured while I left the computer on idle overnight, but I can't recall how long it was before the BSOD happened. There have been 4 BSOD in 2 weeks, 3 of which were 0x00000050, and one was 0x0000000a.



Spoiler: BIOS Settings



Going off of memory.

*Ai Tweaker*


*Ai Overclock Tuner: Auto*
*Turbo Ratio: By All Cores*
*By All Cores: 46*
*Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled*
*Memory Frequency: 1600*
*DRAM Timing Control: 9-9-9-28-2T*
*EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled*

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio: Auto*
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled*
*Turbo Mode: Enabled*
*Long Duration Power Limit: Auto*
*Long Duration Maintained: Auto*
*Short Duration Power Limit: Auto*
*Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto*
*Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto*

*Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)*

*Load-Line Calibration: High*
*VRM Frequency: Auto*
*VRM Spread Spectrum: Disabled*
*Phase Control: Optimized*
*Duty Control: T.Probe*
*CPU Current Capability: 120%*
*CPU Voltage: Offset Mode*
*Offset Mode Sign: +*
*CPU Offset Voltage: 0.035V*
*DRAM Voltage: 1.5V*
*VCCSA Voltage: Auto*
*VCCIO Voltage: 1.1V*
*CPU PLL Voltage: Auto*
*PCH Voltage: Auto*
*CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled*

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio: Auto*
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled*
*Active Processor Cores: All*
*Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled*
*Execute Disable Bit: Enabled*
*Intel Virtualization Technology: Enabled*
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled*
*Turbo Mode: Enabled*
*CPU C1E: Enabled*
*CPU C3 Report: Disabled*
*CPU C6 Report: Disabled*

*Note:* The last BSOD was with the following settings:

*Ai Tweaker*


*Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual*
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0*
*Turbo Ratio: By All Cores*
*By All Cores: 46*
*Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled*
*Memory Frequency: 1866*
*DRAM Timing Control: 9-9-9-27-1T 7**tWCL*
*EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled*

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*

*CPU Ratio: Auto*
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled*
*Turbo Mode: Enabled*
*Long Duration Power Limit: Auto*
*Long Duration Maintained: Auto*
*Short Duration Power Limit: Auto*
*Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto*
*Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto*

*Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)*

*Load-Line Calibration: High*
*VRM Frequency: Auto*
*VRM Spread Spectrum: Disabled*
*Phase Control: Optimized*
*Duty Control:* *T.Probe*
*CPU Current Capability: 120%*
*CPU Voltage: Offset Mode*
*Offset Mode Sign: +*
*CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V*
*DRAM Voltage: 1.35V*
*VCCSA Voltage: Auto*
*VCCIO Voltage: 1.075V*
*CPU PLL Voltage: Auto*
*PCH Voltage: Auto*
*CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled*

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*

*CPU Ratio: Auto*
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled*
*Active Processor Cores: All*
*Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled*
*Execute Disable Bit: Enabled*
*Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled*
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled*
*Turbo Mode: Enabled*
*CPU C1E: Enabled*
*CPU C3 Report: Disabled*
*CPU C6 Report: Disabled*

*Note2*: The latter settings are P95 14.8GB 9h stable, SuperPi 32M stable, P95 14.8GB 4096-32768 12h stable.



My guess is it might have something to do with VCCIO, because of the SB BSOD codes, and It seems to help a lot with getting 2133 SuperPi 32M stable. By alot i mean 1.15 seems less stable than 1.175.

I can attach the minidumps or any other info that may help with solving this problem.

*Edit:* It happened again after i left my computer to go eat. BSOD 50

*Edit2:* BSOD 50 happened again the next day. This is getting annoying.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kristink041180*
> 
> Hi everyone I am new to OverClock.net but I have a few issues with my new build. I will try to give as much specs as possible:
> Case: Corsair Carbide 400R
> Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3
> CPU: Intel Core i5-2500k
> Graphics: EVGA Geforce GTX 550 Ti
> Memory: 8GB (I will get the model later)
> HD: Western Digital WD1002FAEX 1TB Caviar Black Hard Drive - 1TB, 7200RPM, 64MB, SATA 6Gbs
> SSD: OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-60G 2.5" 60GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
> CPU Cooler: Artic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
> PSU: Silverstone Strider Gold 80 Plus
> I seem to be having several issues with my system. One seems to be I can't install Linux. It seems to get as far as detecting USB devices and just sits there after that doing nothing at all.
> The second issue is with USB3. I had plugged two devices into the rear USB3 and neither one got drivers installed properly until I plugged them into USB2 Ports. Also my front USB3 ports have major issues
> When I plug a new device in the front USB3 ports and it hasn't been used yet then my system just sits there and hangs. If I force a shutdown (hold power) and then turn it back on with device plugged in then it gets recognized no issue. Anyone have any ideas on these issues?


You know, I had that issue with mine. Tried plugging in mouse and keyboard and they would not work. I passed it off as some type of compatibility issue. Will have to do some testing.


----------



## swarm87

i have a set of CML16GX3M4A1600C9B vengeance and i was wondering if i want my ram to run at the speed its supposed to(1600 vs 1333) do i have to do anything other than telling the uefi to run the ram @1600 instead of auto?


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swarm87*
> 
> i have a set of CML16GX3M4A1600C9B vengeance and i was wondering if i want my ram to run at the speed its supposed to(1600 vs 1333) do i have to do anything other than telling the uefi to run the ram @1600 instead of auto?


That should do the trick yes, you can also put in the first 5 timings in the bios manually just to be sure. For me it is : 9-9-9-24-2T but I changed it to 1T for better performance. Works perfectly ! I did the change from 2T to 1T after reading a review about the memory where they said it was possible and gave better performance.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> There are ways around it. If you switch to a similar chipset board for example z68 to another z68 you may not have to reinstall a thing other than re-activating Windows. You can also use driver sweeper and completely wipe your system of all drivers (drivers are what typically cause blue screens after a motherboard swap) then reload them when you use the new motherboard. AMD has it easy on this subject... you can basically swap out any AMD board as long as you are using AHCI and never have to worry about problems. Unfortunately Intel has less universal drivers for chipset, NIC, etc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Cool. I will check it out. +rep.


I can say that even P67 <-> Z68 is compatible even with different brand. Asus P8P67 EVO <-> Gigabyte Z68AP-d3. I never installed anything other than Onboard Sound(one is 5.1 the other 7.1) and USB 3.0 drivers(controllers were different) And activating Windows.


----------



## polynomialc

i thought CPU Spread Spectrum: was always suppost to be disabled, also maybe not worth it to oc that memory, usually the gains are so low not worth doing.
you say your left your pc for a while then it crashed, maybe windows going into some power saving mode, u have profile setup? im not an expert though still learning ocing on this board myself. im running a lesser oc on my board 4.3 at 1.27v ht on. only other settings might be off, phase control maybe to extreme, instead of optimised and possibly, internal ppl voltage on,Load-Line Calibration ultra high, i could be wrong


----------



## Drakensanger

Hi all!

This is my first time posting here, and i wish that the occasion was happier.

I have a problem with my setup. Today I bought the following items:

MB: Asus PZ68 PRO/GEN3,
CPU: i2500k,
RAM: 2x4 GB Patriot Viper Extreme 2133 MHz,
VGA: Sapphire 6950,
PSU: Seasonic 520GP
old:
Silicon Power SSD (old Win7 install on it)
HDD WD (old Ubuntu install on it)

And it is all packed into my old Antec nine hundred case.

I was considering purchasing Gigabyte mobo GA Z68XP-UD3P, but after I heard about Gigabyte boot loop problems I went with this one.

I spent the entire day connecting, cable managing and whatnot only to find out that the damn thing won't power on. Well, sort of...

First time I tried to turn on my new rig, it restarted three times (all case and CPU fans started spinning, then stopped), then the screen said: "Found new CPU, 2500 k and Press F1 to enter setup", which I did.

After that I found myself in UEFI bios, from where I have chosen "boot sequence" or "boot priority" (don't remember which one exactly) option. After that I was offered a choice to boot into Win7 or Ubuntu. (I have 2 OS, one on my SSD (Win 7), and one on my HDD (Ubuntu).

So far, so good... I pressed Enter and...

...and then my PC just turned itself off, and I can't turn it on. It's not responding to anything. RAM LED is lit green, and power and reset buttons on MoBo are also lit (red/green).

I tried case buttons, motherboard buttons, clearing CMOS, removing battery, disconnecting PSU connectors, combining RAM modules/slots... I simply don't know what to do, because other than those 3 leds my MoBo is not showing any signs of life.

Please help me solve this problem! I'm sorry if i sound desperate, that is probably because I am desperate.

Thanks in advance and greetings from an disappointed OC-er.


----------



## KingT

Set manually RAM speed to 1600MHz, set manually timings and RAM voltage..

If you get it to POST then go in OS and test stability with Prime 95 CUSTOM 1344K > 1344K ,6000MB of RAM for test and at least 30 minutes..

If it passes then reboot to BIOS and set RAM to 2133MHz, set timings and RAM voltage also add some VCCIO voltage..

Also you can try out that MeM OK button on the motherboard for memory compatibility issues,it automatically loads optimal timings,speed and voltage for RAM..

Refer to your User guide for MeM OK button testing procedure..

CHEERS..


----------



## Drakensanger

@KingT

Thank you very much for such a fast reply.

Unfortunately, I cant do any of those things because my PC is not responding. Not a beep, not a single fan spin, nothing.

If there weren't those three LED's I would have thought that the MoBo is dead.

i tried MemOK several times (once and for several seconds), but nothing. RAM LED is always on (green), and PC won't power up.

Any other ideas?


----------



## paradoxum

quick question;
when increasing the offset voltage past + or - 0.060 the text goes red, why?
I need to increase it in order to *decrease* the voltage.. but it still goes red. is there a danger?


----------



## Drakensanger

Big update:

I wasn't lazy so I disassembled my rig, placed everything onto my desk and reconnected it, only difference is that this time I was using my retired PSU, an Antec TP Trio 650W, and, to my suprise, everything worked. I started only with MoBo+CPU+RAM, and then continued adding my SSD, HDD and VGA, and every time it successfully powered on and made into Win. (...knock on wood...).

It is somewhat odd that 650W Antec PSU, in use since year 2007. can awake my rig and Seasonic, completely new 520W PSU is a potential troublemaker. I don't know where is the problem because it should be more than enough for my current rig.

Although, because I've modded my case, I was using 8-pin PSU extension cord, so that I can place it behind the MoBo tray. Maybe this was causing the problem, even though I was using hi-quality sleeved Bitphoenix extension cord.

Thanks again KingT

I'll be back tomorrow with an update.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drakensanger*
> 
> Big update:
> I wasn't lazy so I disassembled my rig, placed everything onto my desk and reconnected it, only difference is that this time I was using my retired PSU, an Antec TP Trio 650W, and, to my suprise, everything worked. I started only with MoBo+CPU+RAM, and then continued adding my SSD, HDD and VGA, and every time it successfully powered on and made into Win. (...knock on wood...).
> It is somewhat odd that 650W Antec PSU, in use since year 2007. can awake my rig and Seasonic, completely new 520W PSU is a potential troublemaker. I don't know where is the problem because it should be more than enough for my current rig.
> Although, because I've modded my case, I was using 8-pin PSU extension cord, so that I can place it behind the MoBo tray. Maybe this was causing the problem, even though I was using hi-quality sleeved Bitphoenix extension cord.
> Thanks again KingT
> I'll be back tomorrow with an update.


a 520 psu is very very bare min.these day's even with your 650w .
with your set up
MB: Asus PZ68 PRO/GEN3,
CPU: i2500k,
RAM: 2x4 GB Patriot Viper Extreme 2133 MHz,
VGA: Sapphire 6950,
Silicon Power SSD (old Win7 install on it)
HDD WD (old Ubuntu install on it)

you would need at the most a 700 upwards.try this link and work out how much power supplie you would need:http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/Power


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> a 520 psu is very very bare min.these day's even with your 650w .
> with your set up
> MB: Asus PZ68 PRO/GEN3,
> CPU: i2500k,
> RAM: 2x4 GB Patriot Viper Extreme 2133 MHz,
> VGA: Sapphire 6950,
> Silicon Power SSD (old Win7 install on it)
> HDD WD (old Ubuntu install on it)
> you would need at the most a 700 upwards.try this link and work out how much power supplie you would need:http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/Power


Not exactly true..

A Seasonic 520W M12 II BRONZE is a good PSU,it can run his rig easily..

It has 480W in 12+V rail (40A) and *his rig wouldn't pull more than 350W*..

I have *2500K @ 4.5GHz* and *GTX480 OC'd @ 831/1025MHz* and I run it on *3.5 year old Cooler Master Real Power M620* which has *516W on 12V+ rail* (43A)..

I have thrown everything on it from Furmark,3DMark 11,Heaven, OCCT PSU torture test (GPU + CPU combined) and it was rock solid..

Maybe *Drakensanger* has faulty PSU but Seasonic 520 S12 II is quite capable of running his rig,,

CHEERS..


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polynomialc*
> I thought CPU Spread Spectrum: was always suppost to be disabled, also maybe not worth it to oc that memory, usually the gains are so low not worth doing.
> you say your left your pc for a while then it crashed, maybe windows going into some power saving mode, u have profile setup? im not an expert though still learning ocing on this board myself. im running a lesser oc on my board 4.3 at 1.27v ht on. only other settings might be off, phase control maybe to extreme, instead of optimised and possibly, internal ppl voltage on,Load-Line Calibration ultra high, i could be wrong


Back when i was very active in this club, the general consensus was to leave CPU spread spectrum on unless you are OCing BCLK. It makes the BCLK fluctuate to reduce EMI, so i could cause instability with a high BLCK.

Yes the gains are quite low(0.1%-6%), but i really don't want to run them at the terrible timings of 11-11-11-30 2T

I have the opposite of power saving setup in my windows settings.

Phase control is unlikely because of the BSOD error codes i received. Internal PLL OV is not needed and shouldn't be used unless it is impossible for you to boot at the higher multis(46+). LLC Ultra High would be the opposite of what i should use if i was getting idle BSOD. Using it lowers the offset voltage required for stabilty, and therefore lowers the idle voltage. In the past, it has given problems with idle BSOD.

Ill be posting my problem in the Sandy Stable club to see if someone there might know.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polynomialc*
> 
> i thought CPU Spread Spectrum: was always suppost to be disabled, also maybe not worth it to oc that memory, usually the gains are so low not worth doing.
> you say your left your pc for a while then it crashed, maybe windows going into some power saving mode, u have profile setup? im not an expert though still learning ocing on this board myself. im running a lesser oc on my board 4.3 at 1.27v ht on. only other settings might be off, phase control maybe to extreme, instead of optimised and possibly, internal ppl voltage on,Load-Line Calibration ultra high, i could be wrong


I think Spread spectrum is mainly used for overclocking with b clock instead of the multi. If oc'ing with a K chip, it should not make a difference. Some people find themselves stable with it disabled and some with it enabled. I have not seen that it makes a difference.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> quick question;
> when increasing the offset voltage past + or - 0.060 the text goes red, why?
> I need to increase it in order to *decrease* the voltage.. but it still goes red. is there a danger?


The red notifies about warning, that you could break something with that high voltage or something like that. But in this case that offset 0.060 shouldn't be high, because I have +0.075 set in mine and it shows it as yellow, if i put it more it turns to purple then to red. Don't know why it turns to red. What BIOS version you have? And how is your other voltages?


----------



## raisethe3

^^^I thought all voltage increments are .005??


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Did you read that VID when you had no OC, it should do when you dont have any overclock in


Hi MooMoo

I am planning on upgrading my BIOS which means my settings will reset to default so I could check the VID settings when I dont have any overclock in.
The best way to do this is just load optimized defaults in BIOS, go into windows and read the VID from the program Coretemp for example.
And what does this VID value tell me then when I am figuring out the perfect offset value ?

Thanks alot for your help !


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Hi MooMoo
> I am planning on upgrading my BIOS which means my settings will reset to default so I could check the VID settings when I dont have any overclock in.
> The best way to do this is just load optimized defaults in BIOS, go into windows and read the VID from the program Coretemp for example.
> And what does this VID value tell me then when I am figuring out the perfect offset value ?
> Thanks alot for your help !


I maybe remember it wrong way on that old post. You have to calculate the VID from manual voltage and your desired multi. I quoted some info here:
Quote:


> Once you know what vcore you require under load, using cpu-z you can work out the offset by using the VID. When running your cpu under load to read vcore, you can do the same to read the VID. That can be achieved by running prime with cpu-z and realtemp. The difference between the load voltage in cpu-z and the VID you see in realtemp is the offset amount you're looking for.
> 
> For example if your VID is 1.3875 under load and your cpu-z vcore under load is 1.4275, the offset will be a positive amount from the VID, so it'll be +0.040 (1.3875 + 0.040 = 1.4275)
> 
> If the VID is 1.3875 and your cpu-z vcore is lower, say 1.3675, the offset will be a negative value of from the VID, which is -0.020 (1.3875 - 0.020 = 1.3675)


Rep is always welcome


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> a 520 psu is very very bare min.these day's even with your 650w .
> with your set up
> MB: Asus PZ68 PRO/GEN3,
> CPU: i2500k,
> RAM: 2x4 GB Patriot Viper Extreme 2133 MHz,
> VGA: Sapphire 6950,
> Silicon Power SSD (old Win7 install on it)
> HDD WD (old Ubuntu install on it)
> you would need at the most a 700 upwards.try this link and work out how much power supplie you would need:http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/Power


I'm starting to sound like a broken record saying this but... A quality 500 watt power supply will power *ANY* CPU + single GPU system on the market with room for overclocking. A 6950 will draw 200 watts and an i5 2500K will pull slightly over 100. Thats 300 watts in worst case scenario, realistically while gaming you're looking at around 275 real usage... how does that justify a 700 watt power supply? Simple, It doesn't.


----------



## sorceror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kristink041180*
> 
> I seem to be having several issues with my system. One seems to be I can't install Linux. It seems to get as far as detecting USB devices and just sits there after that doing nothing at all.


I ran into the same problem with Xubuntu 11.10 x64. Setting the "acpi=off" boot option allowed startup to complete. At that point I installed, made sure the kernel was updated, and it was then able to boot Linux off the hard drive without any special boot options.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> I'm starting to sound like a broken record saying this but... A quality 500 watt power supply will power *ANY* CPU + single GPU system on the market with room for overclocking. A 6950 will draw 200 watts and an i5 2500K will pull slightly over 100. Thats 300 watts in worst case scenario, realistically while gaming you're looking at around 275 real usage... how does that justify a 700 watt power supply? Simple, It doesn't.


The key word in your quote is a "quality" PSU. Something a lot of people forget is that it is not just the wattage but your manufacturer that makes a difference, Different power can go to different rails, the components can be inferior, your home electrical can also come into play.


----------



## raxf

The back blue usb 3.0 ports on my mobo(P8Z68) wont detect my external hard drive?They detect my mouse and keyboard though.Any fix for this?


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raxf*
> 
> The back blue usb 3.0 ports on my mobo(P8Z68) wont detect my external hard drive?They detect my mouse and keyboard though.Any fix for this?


Make sure you install the usb 3.0 drivers. Sometimes they will work with legacy stuff like keyboards and mice but won't power on hard drives.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> I maybe remember it wrong way on that old post. You have to calculate the VID from manual voltage and your desired multi. I quoted some info here:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Once you know what vcore you require under load, using cpu-z you can work out the offset by using the VID. When running your cpu under load to read vcore, you can do the same to read the VID. That can be achieved by running prime with cpu-z and realtemp. The difference between the load voltage in cpu-z and the VID you see in realtemp is the offset amount you're looking for.
> For example if your VID is 1.3875 under load and your cpu-z vcore under load is 1.4275, the offset will be a positive amount from the VID, so it'll be +0.040 (1.3875 + 0.040 = 1.4275)
> If the VID is 1.3875 and your cpu-z vcore is lower, say 1.3675, the offset will be a negative value of from the VID, which is -0.020 (1.3875 - 0.020 = 1.3675)
> 
> 
> 
> Rep is always welcome
Click to expand...

Thanks !
+ Rep - very good info !


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> I'm starting to sound like a broken record saying this but... A quality 500 watt power supply will power *ANY* CPU + single GPU system on the market with room for overclocking. A 6950 will draw 200 watts and an i5 2500K will pull slightly over 100. Thats 300 watts in worst case scenario, realistically while gaming you're looking at around 275 real usage... how does that justify a 700 watt power supply? Simple, It doesn't.


simple the 700w will be plenty i agree on that.
a simple work out on his system set up in which you haven't included any sata drives,harddrives,fans,cd/dvd drives .would give him just under 400w and just giving him a small amount to work with oc. agree?
now if he wanted to go c/f and so on he be pushed.
a 700w or a true power 650 w would give him alot of leave way and a few $ more will last him for future upgrades if need be.by the way did some looking around the 6950 can draw anything from 250-280 watts on full load


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> I'm starting to sound like a broken record saying this but... A quality 500 watt power supply will power *ANY* CPU + single GPU system on the market with room for overclocking. A 6950 will draw 200 watts and an i5 2500K will pull slightly over 100. Thats 300 watts in worst case scenario, realistically while gaming you're looking at around 275 real usage... how does that justify a 700 watt power supply? Simple, It doesn't.


Remember HDDs and fans! + Other misc they need power too


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> simple the 700w will be plenty i agree on that.
> a simple work out on his system set up in which you haven't included any sata drives,harddrives,fans,cd/dvd drives .would give him just under 400w and just giving him a small amount to work with oc. agree?
> now if he wanted to go c/f and so on he be pushed.
> a 700w or a true power 650 w would give him alot of leave way and a few $ more will last him for future upgrades if need be.by the way did some looking around the 6950 can draw anything from 250-280 watts on full load


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Remember HDDs and fans! + Other misc they need power too


I'm not just spatting out numbers without any knowledge, research, or experience. I have a kill-a-watt meter at home and have done a lot of testing with it. My sig rig pulled a max of 420 watts while running Prime95 and Furmark at the *same time*. I also have a new system I just built that has a GTX 480 (A power hog) a phenom quad, fans, hard drives, etc. and it pulled 300w even running Heaven 2.5 benchmark. Systems just don't pull what people think they'll pull, especially with newer tech making everything more efficient and lets face it, PC building is expensive, why recommend the user spend $50 more than they have to when they can get a quality 550w for ~$50.

Edit: And remember, the power pulled from the wall needs multiplied by 85% thus lowering the power pull even more.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> I'm not just spatting out numbers without any knowledge, research, or experience. I have a kill-a-watt meter at home and have done a lot of testing with it. My sig rig pulled a max of 420 watts while running Prime95 and Furmark at the *same time*. I also have a new system I just built that has a GTX 480 (A power hog) a phenom quad, fans, hard drives, etc. and it pulled 300w even running Heaven 2.5 benchmark. Systems just don't pull what people think they'll pull, especially with newer tech making everything more efficient and lets face it, PC building is expensive, why recommend the user spend $50 more than they have to when they can get a quality 550w for ~$50.
> Edit: And remember, the power pulled from the wall needs multiplied by 85% thus lowering the power pull even more.


Here is Guru3D's power supply recommendation:

GeForce GTX 480

On your average system the card requires you to have a 650 Watt power supply unit.

GeForce GTX 480 in SLI

A second card requires you to add another 250 Watts. You need a 900+ Watt power supply unit if you use it in a high-end system (1 KiloWatt recommended if you plan on any overclocking).
For each other card (3-way SLI) that you add, just add another 250 Watts and 20A on the 12V rails as a safety margin. What would happen if your PSU can't cope with the load? Here are some pointers:

bad 3D performance
crashing games
spontaneous reset or imminent shutdown of the PC
freezing during gameplay
PSU overload can cause it to break down

please check link : http://www.geforce.com/Hardware/GPUs/geforce-gtx-480/specifications

the op doe's not need to take my advice or yours,he is his own person to make his mind up .time will tell if he needs to up his psu or not.

end of story.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> Here is Guru3D's power supply recommendation:
> GeForce GTX 480
> On your average system the card requires you to have a 650 Watt power supply unit.
> GeForce GTX 480 in SLI
> A second card requires you to add another 250 Watts. You need a 900+ Watt power supply unit if you use it in a high-end system (1 KiloWatt recommended if you plan on any overclocking).
> For each other card (3-way SLI) that you add, just add another 250 Watts and 20A on the 12V rails as a safety margin. What would happen if your PSU can't cope with the load? Here are some pointers:
> bad 3D performance
> crashing games
> spontaneous reset or imminent shutdown of the PC
> freezing during gameplay
> PSU overload can cause it to break down
> please check link : http://www.geforce.com/Hardware/GPUs/geforce-gtx-480/specifications
> the op doe's not need to take my advice or yours,he is his own person to make his mind up .time will tell if he needs to up his psu or not.
> end of story.


I'm running *OC'd GTX 480 @ 831/1025MHz* and *2500K @ 4.5GHz* on a *3.5 year old Cooler Master Real Power M620* which has *516W (43A) on 12V+ rail*..

It's ROCK SOLID in Furmark,3DMark 11, heaven, OCCT PSU Torture test (GPU + CPU combined) , games you name it..

OP's rig would not pull more than 350W at full lad (GPU + CPU combined) and his SeaSonic PSU has 480W on 12V+ rail and BRONZE certificate..

Also check OCN PSU forum and see for yourself that he doesn't need not even nearly 700W PSU for his rig..

CHEERS..


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> I'm running *OC'd GTX 480 @ 831/1025MHz* and *2500K @ 4.5GHz* on a *3.5 year old Cooler Master Real Power M620* which has *516W (43A) on 12V+ rail*..
> It's ROCK SOLID in Furmark,3DMark 11, heaven, OCCT PSU Torture test (GPU + CPU combined) , games you name it..
> OP's rig would not pull more than 350W at full lad (GPU + CPU combined) and his SeaSonic PSU has 480W on 12V+ rail and BRONZE certificate..
> Also check OCN PSU forum and see for yourself that he doesn't need not even nearly 700W PSU for his rig..
> CHEERS..


This


----------



## Drakensanger

Hello all again!

Unfortunately, it seems that I'll have to return my PSU to the shop because I suspect it is faulty. I have tried it in two different rigs and it seems it's a dud.

I've already sent them an email regarding this issue, and I am waiting for Monday morning to see what kind of response will I get. I suggested that I want to return this one and add the price difference to 620GP, but I wonder if maybe I should switch brands (maybe get an LC Power Metatron LC8650II or Chieftec CFT 650 14CS, because the price is similar to this one).

In the meantime, my Antec TP Trio alternative is going strong, all silent and reliable. But I need it for my other rig, not to mention that I have already promised that other setup to someone, so...

Everything is on hold 'till Monday.

PS

Also, I was mistaken about RAM LED being lit, it was TPU LED (what can I say, dark case, me nervous and tired, mistakes can happen...), and I've switched it off. But power and reset buttons/LEDs are still on when Seasonic is plugged in and connected to MoBo, and the system isn'powering on. Very confusing...


----------



## polynomialc

few questions still learning this board, ive been using 4.3 ht on 1.27v no offset.. and its been stable 4.3 on my 2600k air cooling hyper212. Im trying to venture into offset world here, using some of shad0wfax bios setting he posted up from page 725. normally i would prime around 60c, with my 1.27v. using offsets 0.030 Medium LLC CPU Current Capability 120%. i notice my vcore spikes to 1.328 and 1.336 in prime. way higher then when i used manual 1.27 obviously. temps go to around 65c. does this seem about right to most people? or is this way to high of vcore for 4.3ghz oc. just a bit nervous about these offset vcore changes any input would be great.

ok i feel like a real idiot, i had the .030 as a + instead of minus. now my vcore is maxing at 1.272


----------



## Cyrilmak

Just incase no one noticed, the P8Z68 Deluxe has a brand new BIOS download. Was put out a little while ago. Fixes are "System Stability" and "New CPU".


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrilmak*
> 
> Just incase no one noticed, the P8Z68 Deluxe has a brand new BIOS download. Was put out a little while ago. Fixes are "System Stability" and "New CPU".


There's a Deluxe, and then there's the Deluxe/Gen3...the Deluxe has five bios out, while the Deluxe/Gen3 is only on it's second. Now, has anyone tried this? I only ask because of the number of people who've complained about the latest Rog revision, voltages no longer available, and not being able to flash back to previous because of uefi revisions.....so has anyone updated a Deluxe/Gen3? Any problems?

The Deluxe/Gen3:
Quote:


> Version 3202
> Description P8Z68-DELUXE-GEN3 BIOS 3202
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 
> 2.Improve memory compatibility.
> 
> 3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
> 
> * Enable support for Intel Next Gen 22nm Processor E1 stepping MP version CPU.
> File Size
> 4,46 (MBytes) 2012.02.27 update


http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68_DELUXEGEN3/#download


----------



## Jayjr1105

Just a word to the wise... If you're stable and have no problems with your overclock I would say stay put on the BIOS you're on. I have the V-Gen3 board and I don't think I'll ever flash over top of what I have unless they claim a performance increase. They call them "test dummies" for a reason


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Just a word to the wise... If you're stable and have no problems with your overclock I would say stay put on the BIOS you're on. I have the V-Gen3 board and I don't think I'll ever flash over top of what I have unless they claim a performance increase. They call them "test dummies" for a reason


i hear what you're saying, but I'm thinking of putting Ivy in when it comes out...


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> i hear what you're saying, but I'm thinking of putting Ivy in when it comes out...


I'm running the new BIOS for the Deluxe Gen 3 and I'm getting 5.1GHz at 1.46v under load. Very rock stable. I was running 5.1 at 1.488v before with the old one. Also if you download it, it's big.maybe it's the default size but I thought it was only 4MB but, I suppose it could be because of it havig two chips aboard? None the less it's a good BIOS. My weird shadow thingies at the boot screen every so often seem to be gone as well. I say flash it.


----------



## 271973

I accidentally set a custom logo for my BIOS upgrade. Is there any way I can go back to the default ASUS logo?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> i hear what you're saying, but I'm thinking of putting Ivy in when it comes out...
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the new BIOS for the Deluxe Gen 3 and I'm getting 5.1GHz at 1.46v under load. Very rock stable. I was running 5.1 at 1.488v before with the old one. Also if you download it, it's big.maybe it's the default size but I thought it was only 4MB but, I suppose it could be because of it havig two chips aboard? None the less it's a good BIOS. My weird shadow thingies at the boot screen every so often seem to be gone as well. I say flash it.
Click to expand...

On 1101 now and no need to upgrade until it's time but I'm really looking forward to a 3770K in my rig even if I have to go z77 in the end I'm looking forward to the die shrink. 22nm


----------



## garikfox

For users with a P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3, I was wondering does your mobo take like 1/2 sec to turn the computer on once the PWR button is pressed ?

Probably not a big deal I was just wondering.


----------



## Geeboi

^^ i dont have the gen3,but mine does that too,press the button,pause,then hellooooo lol


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> I accidentally set a custom logo for my BIOS upgrade. Is there any way I can go back to the default ASUS logo?


Unless you can find the boot logo somewhere, then the only way will be to flash the BIOS and lose your settings. But it is recommended to turn off the logo since it speeds up the boot time. The only thing to remember is the key for opening the BIOS since it doesn't show it in the text that replaces the logo. You can find the settings to remove it in the section of the BIOS that allows you to change boot settings. If you can't find it, ill take a screenshot and circle the option.


----------



## dartuil

hello men i got issue my gpu is seen on a 4x pcie but im on my 16x blue port.
what can i do?


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> hello men i got issue my gpu is seen on a 4x pcie but im on my 16x blue port.
> what can i do?


Go into BIOS and check the bandwidth settings for PCIe.


----------



## dartuil

where?


----------



## MercurySteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> where?


Hate to say it, but there's a manual included with your board. I'm not exactly sure where it is, but it's in the same place you disable the Marvel ports (i think).


----------



## dartuil

yeah sorry man , the manual is there going to read it thanks


----------



## kevindd992002

So is the latest BIOS firmware for the P8Z68-V/GEN3 already stable as of this moment?


----------



## useport80

if i have a dedicated video card, should i or should i not keep the built in graphics gpu enabled in the bios? i know the pci-e card will take priority, but is there any purpose to keeping the intel hd 3000 gpu enabled? i just dont see a need to use lucid or use the intel hd3000 gpu at all if i have an ati hd 7970.

whats every1's thoughts about it?


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So is the latest BIOS firmware for the P8Z68-V/GEN3 already stable as of this moment?


I'm not moving from stock BIOS. Absolutely no reason to. Like I said earlier, until I see "performance gains" in the release notes, I'm staying put.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *useport80*
> 
> if i have a dedicated video card, should i or should i not keep the built in graphics gpu enabled in the bios? i know the pci-e card will take priority, but is there any purpose to keeping the intel hd 3000 gpu enabled? i just dont see a need to use lucid or use the intel hd3000 gpu at all if i have an ati hd 7970.
> whats every1's thoughts about it?


I personally would only keep the dedicated GPU on and leave LUCID off.
(i am running a EVGA GTX 580 Hydro copper 2 (3g) solely with LUCID off and
am running fine).
Although to sound proffesional i should say you should test first (first with only dedicated GPU then Dedicated GPU + built in GPU)
although i am no professional.lol..

LUCID creates 2 drivers - 1 for Directx calls (games etc..) and one for non directx calls (word programs etc..)
depending on your work load it will switch between these 2 drivers.
I have only had problems with LUCID so that's why i have left it off mainly (i believe during the driver switch something goes horribly wrong for me)
but if you see no need for it then don't use them.

my personal preference is to only use certain capabilities when they are needed.
system performance goes down then try to improve.
everything is working good - no need to improve..
pretty simple logic i know but it's easy to get carried away with computers and actually hinder your comp
rather than help.

each comp is differenct even if they have same components so always test test test.

just my 2 cents..but like i said i am far from a professional.. built my first rig about 2 months ago so i'm pretty new to this..


----------



## Jodiuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So is the latest BIOS firmware for the P8Z68-V/GEN3 already stable as of this moment?


My board shipped w/ 3202, but I don't even see that listed, lol. Maybe I should jump to 3203...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> The "Intel Management Engine Interface " is a part of the VPro technology of Intel.
> This IMEI technology allows you to manage your pc remotely.
> And is more designed for enterprise than home users.


Thanks, think I'll disable it for now.

Edit: The other one I'm sketch about's the USB 3.0 driver. We all know Asus doesn't keep up w/ their drivers. I checked the AS Media site, but couldn't find any download page. I'm looking for this:

Asmedia USB3.0 Controller Driver V1.14.1.0

The Asus version's from Nov of last year. So were about 3 other drivers I found related to Intel...and of course their were newer versions on Intel's Support page.


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks

where do i change my RAM FREQUENCY in bios?

I need to set it at 1600 mhz.

I have a Asus p8z68v-le


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> where do i change my RAM FREQUENCY in bios?
> 
> I need to set it at 1600 mhz.
> 
> I have a Asus p8z68v-le


In "Advanced" menu of bios, in "AI Tweaker", should have "Memory Frequency" about nine down from the top, if it's same as my Deluxe/Gen3?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> In "Advanced" menu of bios, in "AI Tweaker", should have "Memory Frequency" about nine down from the top, if it's same as my Deluxe/Gen3?


My UEFI is missing lots of features but yeah i know that place. Matter of fact my RAMS support 1600 mhz and i had selected this when I OCed my CPU. however in 3Dmark11 my rams were shown as 667 mhz.. I had a topic about this and one fellow said its normal and the other fellow said that i had my memory frequency at 1300 mhz...

I cant figure it out.


----------



## chillidog

download cpu-z

http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> download cpu-z
> http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html


Just did that

Under Memory y DRAM frequency is 800


----------



## alancsalt

DDR = Double Data Rate
CPUZ reports single data rate, which is half
So if CPUZ says 800 you are running at 1600


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> DDR = Double Data Rate
> CPUZ reports single data rate, which is half
> So if CPUZ says 800 you are running at 1600


Ahh good to know that 

Thank you


----------



## Jodiuh

Do you guys use TPU? Or Turbo?


----------



## varione

Hey, new to the thread. I just built my system over the last week and all has been running fine and smooth, currently running everything at stock clock/voltages. However, I loaded up HWiNFO64 today and each core's multiplier is being constantly changed. I have c1e/speedstep enabled and I understand what they do by changing multiplier/voltage during low usage. I have previously monitored voltage/multiplier through AIDA64 and cpu-z and the value remains relatively constant.

I have another system as a server (q6600, p35-ds3l) where c1e/speedstep is also enabled and loaded up HWiNFO there; the voltage and multipliers change, but much more infrequently, sometimes not changing for up to 10 seconds.

On my p8z68 v pro/gen3 and i5-2500k the multiplier and voltage are literally constantly changing, less than .1 seconds.

Any ideas on what the issue is here?


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *varione*
> 
> Hey, new to the thread. I just built my system over the last week and all has been running fine and smooth, currently running everything at stock clock/voltages. However, I loaded up HWiNFO64 today and each core's multiplier is being constantly changed. I have c1e/speedstep enabled and I understand what they do by changing multiplier/voltage during low usage. I have previously monitored voltage/multiplier through AIDA64 and cpu-z and the value remains relatively constant.
> I have another system as a server (q6600, p35-ds3l) where c1e/speedstep is also enabled and loaded up HWiNFO there; the voltage and multipliers change, but much more infrequently, sometimes not changing for up to 10 seconds.
> On my p8z68 v pro/gen3 and i5-2500k the multiplier and voltage are literally constantly changing, less than .1 seconds.
> Any ideas on what the issue is here?


nope no issue just new technology and power savings.


----------



## varione

nm


----------



## Fatality_

I have a question about the p8z68-v pro gen3. I just bought this board a couple weeks ago and my cpu seems hotter on this board then on my old board. On my MSI p67a gd53 my cpu idled at around 31 degrees 4.5ghz @ 1.29v. On my p8z68-v pro gen3 My cpu idles at around 35-38 degrees with the same spec. Now is there another option in the bios that this board has that my old one didn't have that would increase my temps?

I would really like to know so that i can fix it. Thanks for all the help









PS: this board is so much nicer then the msi one I had. I think I will only buy asus boards from now on


----------



## chillidog

depends on where you getting your temps from (progam) you will find that getting temp reading from the bios might be slightly different to using progams like core temp,realtemp,cpuid-monitor
on mine am idle around 32-34 using realtemp.but in the bios am at 32-35.if you can see where am coming from.also you could change the fan settings in the bios to turbo.and also depends on what else your bios settings you are using
if i have read your sig right the cooler you are using is at the bottom end for a fixed water cooler you could change it to a h70 on wards but this a just a suggestion only


----------



## BVM

When I put my computer to sleep and hit the space bar (or what ever key for that matter) the PC will shut off. I have to manually restart it and I always get the your computer did not shut down properly screen. It must be something in the wake by options in the BIOS maybe? I'd really appreciate some help on this problem.

Rig below


----------



## 271973

Anyone with a P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 using the onboard Bluetooth successfully?

There are few threads around the net that share an issue that seems to be related to upgrading the Intel drivers for the board that in turn stop the Bluetooth functioning.

There is also some suggestion that only a certain "type" of Bluetooth connection will work.


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> Anyone with a P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 using the onboard Bluetooth successfully?
> There are few threads around the net that share an issue that seems to be related to upgrading the Intel drivers for the board that in turn stop the Bluetooth functioning.
> There is also some suggestion that only a certain "type" of Bluetooth connection will work.


I used my one with no issues with a Samsung GT5233.
Now I have disabled it as I don't really need it.

MaX.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fatality_*
> 
> I have a question about the p8z68-v pro gen3. I just bought this board a couple weeks ago and my cpu seems hotter on this board then on my old board. On my MSI p67a gd53 my cpu idled at around 31 degrees 4.5ghz @ 1.29v. On my p8z68-v pro gen3 My cpu idles at around 35-38 degrees with the same spec. Now is there another option in the bios that this board has that my old one didn't have that would increase my temps?
> 
> I would really like to know so that i can fix it. Thanks for all the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: this board is so much nicer then the msi one I had. I think I will only buy asus boards from now on


It could be a couple things. #1 your mount of the HS may not be as good as the last mount. Pressure and TIM play a huge role in how well a HS performs. One rice size bead in the center of the Procs IHS and make sure to tighten with even pressure on all four post. Then you'll want about 40# of pressure on the proc for best results. Some HS are better at doing this than other hit up google for tips on your specific HS.

#2 less likely but it depends on your UEFI settings. As with any new build one of the first steps is setting Optimized defaults in bios before you begin tweaking and adjusting to your personal settings. This will enable by default most of the power saving features available on the Asus boards which allows the CPU multi and vcore to drop under low power demand conditions ie browsing etc. but more importantly produce less heat. Using manual vcore and power saving features off makes the multi and Vcore static and produces the highest idle time heat. As always you will want to check what all these settings are and not leave it to chance. You are obviously monitoring your temps but pay attention to Vcore low idle and load and compare that to what you had with the MSI board. Understand depending on what MSI bios or even the Asus bios you are using previous iterations uses a lower idle Vcore that were causing idle time BSOD and both mfg corrected that through bios updates. Before you proceed fill out your system spec so they appear every time you post so we can better help you when the need arises. Click on My Profile at the top middle of this or any forum page. GL and + my rep if this helps.


----------



## atibbo69

Question guys -

I have the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN 3 and recently when I booted it said "overclock failed"

And ever since then when I reset I don't get the ASUS bios screen. But if I hit delete I can still get into the bios but it's super zoomed in and I can't really see anything? It's strange... Anyone know what happened?


----------



## Drakensanger

Is all that I have to do to set my RAM from 1333 to 2133, to simply choose 2133 in UEFI? Is there no need to alter voltages, load profiles, or something similar?

You can see my RAM in my signature rig.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drakensanger*
> 
> Is all that I have to do to set my RAM from 1333 to 2133, to simply choose 2133 in UEFI? Is there no need to alter voltages, load profiles, or something similar?
> You can see my RAM in my signature rig.


You'd probably have to put your RAM volts up to 1.65v or nearest equivalent where it says DRAM Voltage....Patriot have more than one 2 x 4GB PC3-17000 RAM kit....PXD34G2133C11K, PXD38G2133C11K , and PXD34G2133ELK, not sure what the differences are, but all say 1.65v. Auto would probly set that anyway, but if you want to be sure....



If you are not overclocking the cpu then using XMP would probably do it.

Sounds like you should read a good Sandy Bridge overclocking guide?

Even though its for P8P67, it's the one that worked for me, written by an Asus rep...
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265398-Official-ASUS-P8P67-Series-Overclocking-Guide-and-Information


----------



## SLI_Maniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> You'd probably have to put your RAM volts up to 1.65v or nearest equivalent where it says DRAM Voltage....Patriot have more than one 2 x 2GB PC3-17000 RAM kit....PXD34G2133C11K, PXD38G2133C11K , and PXD34G2133ELK, not sure what the differences are, but all say 1.65v. Auto would probly set that anyway, but if you want to be sure....
> 
> If you are not overclocking the cpu then using XMP would probably do it.
> Sounds like you should read a good Sandy Bridge overclocking guide?
> Even though its for P8P67, it's the one that worked for me, written by an Asus rep...
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265398-Official-ASUS-P8P67-Series-Overclocking-Guide-and-Information


I'm having similar trouble. Anytime I change the RAM frequency in the UEFI to anything other than 1600, I can't post. Even with changing the voltage on the RAM to 1.65. Everything I've read about the RAM I have says that it should overclock pretty easily. Any other ideas?

BTW I read through the Sandy Bridge overclocking guide and still no help.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLI_Maniac*
> 
> I'm having similar trouble. Anytime I change the RAM frequency in the UEFI to anything other than 1600, I can't post. Even with changing the voltage on the RAM to 1.65. Everything I've read about the RAM I have says that it should overclock pretty easily. Any other ideas?
> BTW I read through the Sandy Bridge overclocking guide and still no help.


Your sig says 1600MHz ram, so no guarantee that would go higher. You can lower ram timings to something like 11-11-11-30, and try that, but really, why bother? The gains are only noticeable in benchmarks. For normal usage you wouldn't notice. Bit different for the other poster because he has 2133MHz RAM not performing for him as rated, and you expect your ram to perform as rated....

A cpu boost is much more noticeable.

Unless of course you're into HWbot and competitive benching?


----------



## Drakensanger

@ alancsalt

Thank you very much for the link, I'll look into it as soon as today.

I've noticed that my RAM works at 1333 MHz on 1.5 V, at 9-9-9-24. When I entered 2133 in UEFI, it operated on 1.65 V at 11-11-11-30.

Also, measured from CPU-Z, core voltages went from 0,952 V idle to 1,32 V idle, and multiplier changed to x37, only from setting 2133 MHz, and not touching anything else.

But I will read the material from the provided link first, and then I'll ask you guys if something is unclear.

EDIT: Oh yeah, my RAM is Viper Xtreme 2133 MHz PXD38G2133C11K

EDIT 2: Also, I know that it is not important OC-wise, but my CPU-Z (1.60 x64 version) recognizes my CPU graphics as Intel HD 2000, but it should be 3000. Software error, I presume?


----------



## varione

can too much of a negative offset for voltage be harmful? After -0.065 the text color turn to red in the bios.

currently running 4.5ghz @ -0.075 offset The -0.075 offset yields me 1.288-1.296v under load in cpu-z. VID for my chip at 4.5ghz is 1.3511


----------



## LuckyNumber13

I have a Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 mobo with an Intel I7 2700k processor.
i was wondering if anyone has a chart or has a link to a chart which
lists what other people have safely overclocked their processor to
(OC ratio and the voltage).

thanks.


----------



## essanbee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I have a Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 mobo with an Intel I7 2700k processor.
> i was wondering if anyone has a chart or has a link to a chart which
> lists what other people have safely overclocked their processor to
> (OC ratio and the voltage).
> thanks.


LN13 The Sandy Stable Club has such a chart, a Google spreadsheet on the first page of this link. Lots of GREAT info as well...

Sandy Stable


----------



## essanbee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *varione*
> 
> can too much of a negative offset for voltage be harmful? After -0.065 the text color turn to red in the bios.
> currently running 4.5ghz @ -0.075 offset The -0.075 offset yields me 1.288-1.296v under load in cpu-z. VID for my chip at 4.5ghz is 1.3511


Varione from what I understand the main problem with too much neg offset is that it may result in low-voltage BSODs when your CPU idles. I don't think it can hurt anything...


----------



## atibbo69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Question guys -
> I have the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN 3 and recently when I booted it said "overclock failed"
> And ever since then when I reset I don't get the ASUS bios screen. But if I hit delete I can still get into the bios but it's super zoomed in and I can't really see anything? It's strange... Anyone know what happened?


Anyone?


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Anyone?


Try hitting the "-" key several times.


----------



## NotAnotherHong

Does this work?


----------



## garikfox

Heres a little guide for the new people that are having trouble OC'ing.









You cant increase the CPU Ratio Multi past its base limit (2500K limit is 33) this is by ASUS design, The Turbo Mode "By Per Core or By All Cores" is what will set a specific Multi past 33, I'll explain how ASUS says to do it below and this is how I do it.

These below are my BIOS settings for 4.2GHz (2500K)

1. Change the CPU Multi to Max i.e: 33 (2500K)

2. Enable Turbo Mode but Disable Speedstep also Disable PLL Overvoltage.

3. Change Turbo mode to "By Per Core", type in 42 in all 4 boxes.

4. LLC Regular, phase Standard, AUTO VRM frequency, Disable VRM Spread Spectrum, CPU current 100%, T.Probe

5. Offset Voltage "Minus" - .005

6. Disable Spread Spectrum

7. Go into CPU advanced section and Disable Speedstep, Disable C1E and Disable the last two C states

This will give you a constant 4.2GHz for the system, Windows wont display 4.2GHz it will still say 3.30GHz, But the sytem is really running at 4.2GHz on all cores and it wont throttle at Idle.

Idle Voltage - 1.288v

Under full Load - 1.240v

FYI - If you want Windows to throttle down the CPU at Idle do this below.

1. Set Windows PWR management to "Balanced Mode" (this step is optional but I would set it just to be safe)

2. In BIOS set the Turbo mode to "By All Cores" type in 42 = 4200MHz for example

3. Set the actual CPU multi to what you want it to idle down to 16-33, 16 = 1600MHz, 33 = 3300MHz

4. Enable Speedstep, and Enable C1E


----------



## Mercyflush64

The default bios setting gives me 4.3ghz so you are actually underclocking. I don't know where you got your information for the max multiplier but it is not even close.


----------



## hacgumyu

I'm new to the board, but experienced in OC. my new sandy 2500k build with P8Z68V/GEN3 have trouble on RAM running past DDR 1333... I have the ripjaw x 1600 but won't boot at that default speed. anyone know what setting causing it, or it's my RAM or Board not compatible to each other?


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> The default bios setting gives me 4.3ghz so you are actually underclocking. I don't know where you got your information for the max multiplier but it is not even close.


On ASUS boards yes the base multiplier is limited to 16-33 (2500K) it even says this in BIOS, to get the rest of the multipliers we have to use Turbo (This is by ASUS design), Two ASUS Reps say this in two different forums this is how you OC the 2500K etc., is with the Turbo mode.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Two ASUS Reps say this in two different forums this is how you OC the 2500K etc., is with the Turbo mode.


don't believe eveything these reps tell you.they say that their asus ai suite 11 is there best software ever.but ask how many p8z68 users actually used it and and had so much trouble with it
then ask how many have unistalled this software?


----------



## owcraftsman

The max multi for K series procs is x57 and is an Intel spec. In Asus bios you have three choices. Auto, By Per Core and By All Cores. Auto = default Intel spec By Per Core you set each of the four cores to the desired multi and is more flexible. By all cores most commonly used to OC is as the title suggest. If you set x 48 all cores will be set to x48. Both Per Core and By All will overclock your proc. I see no indication one is better than the other but I have found that the Per Core doesn't always work as you might think when mixing multi IE setting x45 x46 x 47 & x48 you might think would allow the turbo to ramp up to x48 when under load like it does with the default but it actually only hits x46 and occasionally x47 and not the expected x48. Also stabilizing was problematic for me. Maybe it was a bad setting on my part but in the end I found By All to be easier to stabilize.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hacgumyu*
> 
> I'm new to the board, but experienced in OC. my new sandy 2500k build with P8Z68V/GEN3 have trouble on RAM running past DDR 1333... I have the ripjaw x 1600 but won't boot at that default speed. anyone know what setting causing it, or it's my RAM or Board not compatible to each other?


Check your voltage settings and the requirements of your memory.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> On ASUS boards yes the base multiplier is limited to 16-33 (2500K) it even says this in BIOS, to get the rest of the multipliers we have to use Turbo (This is by ASUS design), Two ASUS Reps say this in two different forums this is how you OC the 2500K etc., is with the Turbo mode.


Uh, no. I have a stable OC and all i did was use the standard 2600k/2500k guide that is sticky'd under oc guides. I have a p8z68-v gen 3. Very fast and simple even for first time ocer...


----------



## garikfox

With the new BIOS's and my model of board what I talked about is correct. (im on BIOS 3202 and my little guide I wrote is how I OC mine and it works perfectly, Its how ASUS says to do it and it works just as they described)

Your board/BIOS may differ


----------



## dartuil

Hello , men what would you do?
2700k and 22" monitor
or
SSD + 24" monitor?


----------



## SLI_Maniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> With the new BIOS's and my model of board what I talked about is correct. (im on BIOS 3202 and my little guide I wrote is how I OC mine and it works perfectly, Its how ASUS says to do it and it works just as they described)
> Your board/BIOS may differ


Nah man your getting misinformation. I'm running the same processor as you at a x47 multiplyer working at 1.37 volts and it registers under windows and CPU-Z just fine. I'd be more than happy to post a screenie if you'd like.

Check out the sandy stable club and look at the overclocking guide there to really start overclocking your processor. That guide helped me immensely when I first purchased this board. Link


----------



## SLI_Maniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> Hello , men what would you do?
> 2700k and 22" monitor
> or
> SSD + 24" monitor?


SSD, no question. Thats the best upgrade I've made to my PC.


----------



## dartuil

thanks man

here are my temperature on aircooling are they ok?



after bf3 time not idle


----------



## iARDAs

So will my Asus p8Z68v-le support the new ivy bridge CPUs?

I just got the latest bios too.

What would be the adventages of upgrading to a newer MOBO like z77?


----------



## Stu-Crossfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLI_Maniac*
> 
> SSD, no question. Thats the best upgrade I've made to my PC.


Agree 100%.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stu-Crossfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SLI_Maniac*
> 
> SSD, no question. Thats the best upgrade I've made to my PC.
> 
> 
> 
> Agree 100%.
Click to expand...

+1 more


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> So will my Asus p8Z68v-le support the new ivy bridge CPUs?
> 
> I just got the latest bios too.
> 
> What would be the adventages of upgrading to a newer MOBO like z77?


In terms of the Asus z77 boards there are plenty of upgrades and improvements.

TPU & EPU carried over and upgraded called Dual Intelligent Processors 3 or DIP3

Fan Expert 2 which gives greater control over your fans

WI FI GO

USB 3.0 boost

USB Bios Flashback

support for DTS Ultra PC II and DTS Connect

P8Z77-V PRO This full-sized ATX model features a 12 + 4 + 2 digital phase power design, three PCI-E x16 slots with 2-Way SLI / 2-Way CrossFireX / LucidLogix Virtu MVP support, DisplayPort/DVI/HDMI/VGA outputs, four USB 3.0 ports, two USB 3.0 headers, eight SATA connections, one Intel-powered GbE LAN port, 8-channel HD audio codec, etc. Single-band Wi-Fi 802.11n will also come standard, but Bluetooth support is missing on this model

The P8Z77 WS

VRM, with 16 + 4 + 2 digital phase power design

one click Asus SSD caching with an updated Marvel 88SE9128 controller

new PLX PCI-E Gen.3 switch for 4way SLI & CF on the WS model

You will not find all these improvements on all boards ie the V-Pro has no Bluetooth so choose wisely to suit your needs. The good news is there will be plenty of versions at various price points to suit most of us. Although I'd like to have a WS version its overkill for what I need or will invest to take advantage of all it's features. So too would be the ROG boards but it boils down to preference. One thing for sure I will be upgrading but after initial release and all the bugs get ironed out. In other words I'll likely upgrade to the 22nm proc (i73770k) first with my Z68 V-Pro then move up to a Z77.


----------



## Tyreman

here is with new bios


----------



## derfer

Should I go from 1850 to 2302? Noticed some people said they had stability issues but I wonder if that simply means the voltage settings respond differently so you need to tweak your overclock settings.


----------



## SLI_Maniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Should I go from 1850 to 2302? Noticed some people said they had stability issues but I wonder if that simply means the voltage settings respond differently so you need to tweak your overclock settings.


Idk if its the BIOS or not but I've had nothing but trouble since I've updated to 3202.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> In terms of the Asus z77 boards there are plenty of upgrades and improvements.
> 
> TPU & EPU carried over and upgraded called Dual Intelligent Processors 3 or DIP3
> 
> Fan Expert 2 which gives greater control over your fans
> 
> WI FI GO
> 
> USB 3.0 boost
> 
> USB Bios Flashback
> 
> support for DTS Ultra PC II and DTS Connect
> 
> P8Z77-V PRO This full-sized ATX model features a 12 + 4 + 2 digital phase power design, three PCI-E x16 slots with 2-Way SLI / 2-Way CrossFireX / LucidLogix Virtu MVP support, DisplayPort/DVI/HDMI/VGA outputs, four USB 3.0 ports, two USB 3.0 headers, eight SATA connections, one Intel-powered GbE LAN port, 8-channel HD audio codec, etc. Single-band Wi-Fi 802.11n will also come standard, but Bluetooth support is missing on this model
> 
> The P8Z77 WS
> 
> VRM, with 16 + 4 + 2 digital phase power design
> 
> one click Asus SSD caching with an updated Marvel 88SE9128 controller
> 
> new PLX PCI-E Gen.3 switch for 4way SLI & CF on the WS model
> 
> You will not find all these improvements on all boards ie the V-Pro has no Bluetooth so choose wisely to suit your needs. The good news is there will be plenty of versions at various price points to suit most of us. Although I'd like to have a WS version its overkill for what I need or will invest to take advantage of all it's features. So too would be the ROG boards but it boils down to preference. One thing for sure I will be upgrading but after initial release and all the bugs get ironed out. In other words I'll likely upgrade to the 22nm proc (i73770k) first with my Z68 V-Pro then move up to a Z77.


Hmm at the moment it seems wise for me to go on with my z68 since I will probably get a 690 when it is released... So i might just pass z77 for now unless PCI 3.0 makes a difference in the upcoming(?) 690.

So ivy bridge CPUs will never have trouble reaching full potential with z68 boards than right?


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLI_Maniac*
> 
> Idk if its the BIOS or not but I've had nothing but trouble since I've updated to 3202.


What kind of trouble ?

I havent had any trouble with 3202.

I got my Board 12days ago and it came with 3101, When I Installed it I upgraded to 3202.


----------



## derfer

Are 2302 and 3202 equivalent?


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Are 2302 and 3202 equivalent?


No, 3202 is for Z68 and 2302 is for P67. But they are both newest BIOSes for the boards.


----------



## hacgumyu

anyone know what happened to P8Z68V/GEN3 3201 Bios? After I flashed from 0301 to 3201, i can't adjust the CPU Ratio or Turbo Setting. Now i'm locked at 33 multiplier max for my 2500K, which is stock. No overclocking at all from the bios. I read somewhere people said the new bios makes people to use Turbo to overclock, but how?


----------



## Jodiuh

*cross posting from the 2600K thread*

Core Temp lists something as VID, but 1.28 seems a bit...wrong? Also, thanks Core Temp for installing Yahoo Toolbar despite my unchecking it. :/










Temps seem to vary from one program to another, so who knows which one's right. They also seem extremely high given an ambient temp of 24C in a Corsair 550D on a Venomous X w/ a 1200 RPM Scythe SFLEX E. I suppose this could be the voltage, but everything is stock in my BIOS. I changed nothing.

Here's some pictures of my BIOS settings. Hoping someone can shed light on this.


































Also, is there a simple OC guide for Sandy Bridge?


----------



## KalashNK

My validation


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hacgumyu*
> 
> anyone know what happened to P8Z68V/GEN3 3201 Bios? After I flashed from 0301 to 3201, i can't adjust the CPU Ratio or Turbo Setting. Now i'm locked at 33 multiplier max for my 2500K, which is stock. No overclocking at all from the bios. I read somewhere people said the new bios makes people to use Turbo to overclock, but how?


Yeah you have to use the Turbo mode to OC.

For me I use a Constant 4.2ghz with no throttling so I have to use CPU Ratio set at 33, then you set Turbo Mode to "By Per Core" all 4 boxes at 42

Then Disable Speedstep, Disable C1E and I also Disable the last two Cstate boxes.


----------



## Drakensanger

Hello all!

I'm back, and I have questions









I was playing with OC this morning, trying to hit stable 4,5 GHz for 24/7, you can see my BIOS settings below:

AI Overclock tuner > Manual
Turbo ratio > All Cores in OS
Core Values > x45
Internal PLL overvoltage > Enabled
OC Tuner > Cancel
Loadline calibration > Extreme
VRM > Auto
Phase control > Extreme
Duty control > Extreme
CPU voltage > Manual
CPU manual voltage > 1.350
DRAM Voltage > 1.65

It's working nicely, but I've noticed that when the CPU is under load, core voltage (measured with CPU-Z) is 1.385 V, and when the CPU is idle core voltage remains roughly the same, around 1.344 V.

When idle, multiplier changes to x16, speedstep is enabled, but core voltage remains high.

Is there a way to fix this?


----------



## hacgumyu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Yeah you have to use the Turbo mode to OC.
> For me I use a Constant 4.2ghz with no throttling so I have to use CPU Ratio set at 33, then you set Turbo Mode to "By Per Core" all 4 boxes at 42
> Then Disable Speedstep, Disable C1E and I also Disable the last two Cstate boxes.


The problem is, I don't see turbo mode where i can select "BY PER CORE"... i only have Turbo Mode --> Enabled... can you tell me under which tab i can find it, i will try to look for it again.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Yeah you have to use the Turbo mode to OC.
> For me I use a Constant 4.2ghz with no throttling so I have to use CPU Ratio set at 33, then you set Turbo Mode to "By Per Core" all 4 boxes at 42
> Then Disable Speedstep, Disable C1E and I also Disable the last two Cstate boxes.


Why did ASUS decide to do this? So overclocking is completely different now compared to the previous BIOS versions?


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drakensanger*
> 
> Hello all!
> I'm back, and I have questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU voltage > Manual
> 
> When idle, multiplier changes to x16, speedstep is enabled, but core voltage remains high.
> Is there a way to fix this?


Change that to offset which will allow volts to drop.


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hacgumyu*
> 
> The problem is, I don't see turbo mode where i can select "BY PER CORE"... i only have Turbo Mode --> Enabled... can you tell me under which tab i can find it, i will try to look for it again.


It should be in the AI Tweaker menu, another user here lost his Turbo also after updating his BIOS, You might have to CLR CMOS and then once back in the BIOS click Load Optimized Defaults.

The other user though was never able to get his Turbo back i.e: Turbo "By Per Core" "By ALL Cores", which is devestating


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why did ASUS decide to do this? So overclocking is completely different now compared to the previous BIOS versions?


No idea I think it sucks









Yeah to OC you have to use the Turbo Ratios

For a Constant OC you use "By Per Core" - Disable Speedstep, Disable C1E = No Throttling

For the OC to Throttle use "By All Cores" - Enable Speedstep, Enable C1E


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drakensanger*
> 
> Hello all!
> I'm back, and I have questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was playing with OC this morning, trying to hit stable 4,5 GHz for 24/7, you can see my BIOS settings below:
> AI Overclock tuner > Manual
> Turbo ratio > All Cores in OS
> Core Values > x45
> Internal PLL overvoltage > Enabled
> OC Tuner > Cancel
> Loadline calibration > Extreme
> VRM > Auto
> Phase control > Extreme
> Duty control > Extreme
> CPU voltage > Manual
> CPU manual voltage > 1.350
> DRAM Voltage > 1.65
> It's working nicely, but I've noticed that when the CPU is under load, core voltage (measured with CPU-Z) is 1.385 V, and when the CPU is idle core voltage remains roughly the same, around 1.344 V.
> When idle, multiplier changes to x16, speedstep is enabled, but core voltage remains high.
> Is there a way to fix this?


As "error-ID10t" pointed out, Thats because you set a manual voltage, You have to use Offset mode. Try Offset "Minus" -.04

If the minus is to high at idle then the system will BSOD since IDLE volts will also be -.04, Probably wont be a problem with LLC at Extreme though


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> No idea I think it sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah to OC you have to use the Turbo Ratios
> For a Constant OC you use "By Per Core" - Disable Speedstep, Disable C1E = No Throttling
> For the OC to Throttle use "By All Cores" - Enable Speedstep, Enable C1E


So it's totally different from the old BIOSes wherein you just use by all cores and fiddle with one turbo ratio?


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So it's totally different from the old BIOSes wherein you just use by all cores and fiddle with one turbo ratio?


And this my friends is why you don't upgrade a bios without fully understanding the changes that were implemented.

Everyone is so worried about future proofing for the new chips and video cards without even considering that if you are so concerned about this looooong before they come out that you would probably be ready to get a new motherboard by then anyway.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> And this my friends is why you don't upgrade a bios without fully understanding the changes that were implemented.
> Everyone is so worried about future proofing for the new chips and video cards without even considering that if you are so concerned about this looooong before they come out that you would probably be ready to get a new motherboard by then anyway.


So what then is the answer to my question?


----------



## SLI_Maniac

Just a heads up for anyone thinking to upgrade to 3202.... DON'T DO IT!!!!!

Gave me nothing but issues, tried to downgrade the BIOS, still had all sorts of issues, thinking they were software related, I reinstalled windows 7.

After the install, the computer rebooted and stopped posting, tried clearing CMOS, resetting jumpers, and testing each memory stick as well as reseating the CPU. No avail. So, my board is currently being RMA'd and hopefully I'll get a good board in a week or two. 3202 bios is junk, stay away!!!!


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLI_Maniac*
> 
> Just a heads up for anyone thinking to upgrade to 3202.... DON'T DO IT!!!!!
> Gave me nothing but issues, tried to downgrade the BIOS, still had all sorts of issues, thinking they were software related, I reinstalled windows 7.
> After the install, the computer rebooted and stopped posting, tried clearing CMOS, resetting jumpers, and testing each memory stick as well as reseating the CPU. No avail. So, my board is currently being RMA'd and hopefully I'll get a good board in a week or two. 3202 bios is junk, stay away!!!!


I am guessing this only for the z68 chipsets right? I have the P67 chipset so I don't if would make a difference or all they all affected the same way?


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> I am guessing this only for the z68 chipsets right? I have the P67 chipset so I don't if would make a difference or all they all affected the same way?


When i had my z68 i had the 3202 bios and never had a problem..... lol....


----------



## Phenomanator53

proof of ownership: 

also the reason for the image to be ******ed is becasue im running two screens of different resolutions.


----------



## Phenomanator53

i think i did it wrong to prove i own one


----------



## Phenomanator53

on the first page i dont get it how to prove, someone help?


----------



## Jodiuh

My board shipped w/ that one, lol!


----------



## jdbishop

Hey everyone just wanted to see if I could join your little club.

For validation there is my CPU-Z validation that I own a P8Z68-V GEN3 board


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> I am guessing this only for the z68 chipsets right? I have the P67 chipset so I don't if would make a difference or all they all affected the same way?


P67 and Z68 have different BIOSes. So you are right.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> P67 and Z68 have different BIOSes. So you are right.


Yeah, I have the ASUS P8P67 EVO mobo coming soon for my new build. Already have a brand new in unopen box 2550k sitting in my closet doing nothing since Feb.


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So what then is the answer to my question?


ASUS says on how to OC is with the Turbo Ratios.

i.e:

For a Constant OC (No Throttling) - You use "By Per Core" = Disable Speedstep / Disable C1E

For the OC to Throttle in OS at Idle - You use "By All Cores" = Enable Speedstep / Enable C1E

And the only reason why you cant downgrafe BIOS from 3101/3202 to a previous BIOS is that these BIOS's contain the new 8.x.x ME firmware


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> ASUS says on how to OC is with the Turbo Ratios.
> i.e:
> For a Constant OC (No Throttling) - You use "By Per Core" = Disable Speedstep / Disable C1E
> For the OC to Throttle in OS at Idle - You use "By All Cores" = Enable Speedstep / Enable C1E
> And the only reason why you cant downgrafe BIOS from 3101/3202 to a previous BIOS is that these BIOS's contain the new 8.x.x ME firmware


Hmmm, isn't that the same OC process with the old BIOS version?


----------



## garikfox

Im not sure mine came with the 3101 BIOS then upon installation I upgraded to 3202.


----------



## IEATFISH

Picked up this board last week along with a new SSD and 2600k and it has been great. However, when I put the system in sleep mode, the fans don't turn off. Everything else goes to sleep except the fans. Any ideas?


----------



## raisethe3

IEATFISH, I never heard/seen your board. You really meant ASUS P8*Z*68-V GEN3 instead of the "X" right?


----------



## IEATFISH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> IEATFISH, I never heard/seen your board. You really meant ASUS P8*Z*68-V GEN3 instead of the "X" right?


You are correct, sir. Fixed. Thanks!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Im not sure mine came with the 3101 BIOS then upon installation I upgraded to 3202.


Well, I can tell you that it's the same process with the initial BIOS version. I was confused when you said it was different, lol. Maybe different from old generation CPUs, yes.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Silly question but i'm a first time comp. builder
and am not sure if this makes a difference.
I have a blueray/dvd burner and an extra dvd multi write/read.
Does it matter which ports i plug them into.. 3gb/s or 6gb/s?
i have a asus z68 deluxe gen3 mobo.
they are both relatively on the cheaper end of read/write blueray and dvd but
was wondering if the data transfer from disk to hard drive and vice versa would be affected.


----------



## The Avenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IEATFISH*
> 
> Picked up this board last week along with a new SSD and 2600k and it has been great. However, when I put the system in sleep mode, the fans don't turn off. Everything else goes to sleep except the fans. Any ideas?


I would try to play with the power options from the bios. Like disabling C3/C6. Or play a little with the power options in Windows. Try to set the power plan to balanced if it's at High performance.

Alternatively you could try another bios revision.


----------



## IEATFISH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Avenger*
> 
> I would try to play with the power options from the bios. Like disabling C3/C6. Or play a little with the power options in Windows. Try to set the power plan to balanced if it's at High performance.
> Alternatively you could try another bios revision.


Thanks, I actually just figured it out. I had to disabled Internal PLL Voltage. I'm not overclocked at the moment so I have no idea if I will need that later but for now that took care of it.


----------



## The Avenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IEATFISH*
> 
> Thanks, I actually just figured it out. I had to disabled Internal PLL Voltage. I'm not overclocked at the moment so I have no idea if I will need that later but for now that took care of it.


I thought of that too actually. Some need it enabled for x47 - x48 multi and up. If windows freezes for no reason when going x48 + you just try to enable PLL again


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLI_Maniac*
> 
> Just a heads up for anyone thinking to upgrade to 3202.... DON'T DO IT!!!!!


when i did mine i had no problems with it .
i have now been using 3203 for a good while with no problems
am sure your problem is down to you not the bios:thumb:


----------



## Kirock7

The registration for the club is quite confusing (and I thought I was savvy! Ha!)
Don't laugh... but does this qualify me to be a contributing member:


----------



## Mercyflush64

I still don't get people that upgrade a working bios just because there is a new release out. Ivy bridge and PCI 3 has been implemented in all bios versions since the gen 3 boards have been released. If you have a functioning system there is no need to upgrade unless you change hardware that is not on the current compatible list.

Funny thing is if you go through this thread from the beginning you will see very few people have had actual issues with these boards. Mostly it is from lack of experience and knowledge in what they are doing and overlook one small detail. The people with all of the problems are those who blindly upgrade their bios and don't read the detailed changes.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Silly question but i'm a first time comp. builder
> and am not sure if this makes a difference.
> I have a blueray/dvd burner and an extra dvd multi write/read.
> Does it matter which ports i plug them into.. 3gb/s or 6gb/s?
> i have a asus z68 deluxe gen3 mobo.
> they are both relatively on the cheaper end of read/write blueray and dvd but
> was wondering if the data transfer from disk to hard drive and vice versa would be affected.


As far as I know blu-ray burners isnt SATA III yet, so its your choice where to put them because theres no difference on speeds, if you have free SATA III (6Gb/s) why not to plug it there? But dont put it there instead of hdd









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> I still don't get people that upgrade a working bios just because there is a new release out. Ivy bridge and PCI 3 has been implemented in all bios versions since the gen 3 boards have been released. If you have a functioning system there is no need to upgrade unless you change hardware that is not on the current compatible list.
> Funny thing is if you go through this thread from the beginning you will see very few people have had actual issues with these boards. Mostly it is from lack of experience and knowledge in what they are doing and overlook one small detail. The people with all of the problems are those who blindly upgrade their bios and don't read the detailed changes.


Haven't you though that some ppl like to have all updated and if you are going to change something in the future, you have it updated?


----------



## SLI_Maniac

One of the changes for the updates said better stability. Sounds like a reason to upgrade to me.


----------



## fommof

Yes but the term "better stability" is way too abstract imho...i wish that the companies would mention real details about what exactly they have changed/improved/added per bios update...

For this reason personally i am staying with 2103 until i have to deal with a very specific problem that i know that the 2302 or any future bios will solve it or until i know exactly what the term "better stability" or any other abtract description hides behind it...


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> I still don't get people that upgrade a working bios just because there is a new release out. Ivy bridge and PCI 3 has been implemented in all bios versions since the gen 3 boards have been released. If you have a functioning system there is no need to upgrade unless you change hardware that is not on the current compatible list.
> Funny thing is if you go through this thread from the beginning you will see very few people have had actual issues with these boards. Mostly it is from lack of experience and knowledge in what they are doing and overlook one small detail. The people with all of the problems are those who blindly upgrade their bios and don't read the detailed changes.


it as nothing to do with people have lack of experience & knowledge
if a new update bios comes out and states there is a improvement of one or a few things etc you are going to go and update.
like the 3203 it states that

P8Z68-V-PRO BIOS 3203

1.Improve system stability.

2.Improve memory compatibility.

3.Support new CPUs.
Enable support for Intel Next Gen 22nm Processor E1 stepping MP version CPU.:
if it going to inprove my set up ( in which it doe's) i will use it.just like any graphic cards ,ssd and so on .if there are new firmware,bios,etc and it going to inprove your system you be stupid for not to update.
i amit there are people out there that are **** scared to do any bios updates just in case they mess up and they go onto forums to say extact thing you have said quoteI still don't get people that upgrade a working bios just because there is a new release out).
don't get me wrong am not saying your one of them but it's these type of comments that will put newbies of from learning etc


----------



## munaim1

*Update: Unfortunately Turrican9 will not be returning to OCN, I have therefore taken over the thread until further notice.

Aside from overclocking etc, If you have any issues, please don't hesitate to contact me.

Thank you*


----------



## LordThundar

Here's my club submission proof:

CPU-Z Validation link:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2318279

Enjoy....


----------



## ucode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Ivy bridge and PCI 3 has been implemented in all bios versions since the gen 3 boards have been released.


What Ivy Bridge? Did they have at the time a stepping rev E1 cpu to try? Do you really expect that E1, which AFAIK should be the production chip, works with those older BIOS when they have explicitly had to make an E1 update. Does the cpu support page show any Ivy Bridge cpu's?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> If you have a functioning system there is no need to upgrade unless you change hardware that is not on the current compatible list.


Sometimes new features are added. There was the memory remap feature that was added, how could you turn down such a great feature that lets you disable memory remapping so you get to use less memory. LMAO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Funny thing is if you go through this thread from the beginning you will see very few people have had actual issues with these boards. Mostly it is from lack of experience and knowledge in what they are doing and overlook one small detail.


You mean like all of a sudden 100MB disappearing when flashing to a 3 something BIOS when the reality is Windows does not report usable memory less than the full amount until you have at least 100MB reserved for the system. So the new BIOS uses a little more hardware reserved memory and crosses the 100MB threshold, big deal.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> The people with all of the problems are those who blindly upgrade their bios and don't read the detailed changes.


Let's be honest here, there's usually not a real lot to read. Less details, less questions for users to bug the service center with.


----------



## jaydubb

Im still having really slow boot after disabling jmicron, the logo screen, and press f1 error..on a cold boot, screen stays black for about 7 seconds before it shows my raid confirguration and then goes to american megatrends screen. I have the p8z68-v gen3 board. Im overclocked at 4.5 ghz and i have pll voltage enabled. Any advice? Thanks in advance


----------



## IEATFISH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaydubb*
> 
> Im still having really slow boot after disabling jmicron, the logo screen, and press f1 error..on a cold boot, screen stays black for about 7 seconds before it shows my raid confirguration and then goes to american megatrends screen. I have the p8z68-v gen3 board. Im overclocked at 4.5 ghz and i have pll voltage enabled. Any advice? Thanks in advance


I haven't enabled any RAID features on my board but that may play a big part. Have you ever used the board before setting up RAID?


----------



## jaydubb

Hmm, no i havent. Ill try that. I use raid for the intel srt. I just love how fast my hdd is now because of it


----------



## jaydubb

Ok disabling pll voltage did the job


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey can i join your lil club









Got my Asus P8Z68-V PRO-GEN3 yesterday


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> it as nothing to do with people have lack of experience & knowledge
> if a new update bios comes out and states there is a improvement of one or a few things etc you are going to go and update.
> like the 3203 it states that
> P8Z68-V-PRO BIOS 3203
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Improve memory compatibility.
> 3.Support new CPUs.
> Enable support for Intel Next Gen 22nm Processor E1 stepping MP version CPU.:
> if it going to inprove my set up ( in which it doe's) i will use it.just like any graphic cards ,ssd and so on .if there are new firmware,bios,etc and it going to inprove your system you be stupid for not to update.
> i amit there are people out there that are **** scared to do any bios updates just in case they mess up and they go onto forums to say extact thing you have said quoteI still don't get people that upgrade a working bios just because there is a new release out).
> don't get me wrong am not saying your one of them but it's these type of comments that will put newbies of from learning etc


Exactly







It's just the way it is. If there's a newer BIOS update, people tend to have that urge to upgrade especially when seeing those "improvements" in the changelog.


----------



## psikofunkster

Somebody has had this issue: _the Z68 chipset which looses the "Intel® 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family Thermal Control_


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikofunkster*
> 
> Somebody has had this issue: _the Z68 chipset which looses the "Intel® 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family Thermal Control_


http://forums.aida64.com/index.php?/topic/568-windows-7-system-device-not-detected-until-aida64-is-run/

Apparently it does not show unless needed or activated....


----------



## psikofunkster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> http://forums.aida64.com/index.php?/topic/568-windows-7-system-device-not-detected-until-aida64-is-run/
> Apparently it does not show unless needed or activated....


you're very kind alancsalt, many thanks, one worry less....


----------



## sebastimau

Joining up

Here is the validation link:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2322084


----------



## Glottis

I'm having lots of lag in multiplayer games (Battlefield 3, TF2, CSS, you name it) with my P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3. I pinpointed it down to built in Intel 82579V LAN. Once I plugged cable into my old DLink PCI LAN card all games were lag free. I have latest drivers of everything, my computer is very clean both software and hardware. Anyone else have this lag problem? This sucks so much, with my old Gigabyte mobo I had lots of integrated LAN problems, and now with Asus too.


----------



## raisethe3

Anyone know if the EVO supports 3-way SLI/Crossfire? Because I see it says 8x/8x/4x PCI Ex16 support.

I should have my board this week (according to the seller).

Thanks guys, can't wait to join the club!!!


----------



## Glottis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Glottis*
> 
> I'm having lots of lag in multiplayer games (Battlefield 3, TF2, CSS, you name it) with my P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3. I pinpointed it down to built in Intel 82579V LAN. Once I plugged cable into my old DLink PCI LAN card all games were lag free. I have latest drivers of everything, my computer is very clean both software and hardware. Anyone else have this lag problem? This sucks so much, with my old Gigabyte mobo I had lots of integrated LAN problems, and now with Asus too.


UPDATE: Fixed the issue by installing latest driver from Intel website instead of Asus website (the one on Asus gave me troubles with install process, which resulted in problems mentioned above).


----------



## LuckyNumber13

I was wondering if anyone had this issue i currently had.
I started my comp and when it got to the windows load screen (windows logo glowing etc.) it freezes.
even in every type of safe mode, debugging mode etc.. it would not load. (would stop at classpnp.sys
while loading in safe mode....alot of other people have had this issue also and blame classpnp.sys but
i believe that just happens to be the last driver/system file loaded before loading/opening windows as
after i fixed comp i checked using safe mode and classpnp.sys is the last one before it loads ok so i don't belive that is
the problem.
I couldn't even do a system restore, format the drive and reinstall..i even tryed using my windows xp to format and install and
still couldn't..
i believe there was an error between the communication between the motherboard (asus z68 Deluxe Gen3) and the hard drive (WD Cav. Black 500 Gb -- 6Gb/s). Corrupt driver?
neways i fixed it by updating my mobo (Which i oh so did not want to do) and kept trying restores on different SATA ports.
eventually (after 50 trys already..why it worked this time i do not know) i got a system startup scan/fix and
it worked.

Has anyone else come accross this issue? if so how did you fix it? if fixed mine just not sure how lol..want to
know in case happens in future again.


----------



## MaStA819

Could someone possibly help me with this mini dump? I started receiving this a couple months ago after getting a new SSD. I RMA'd the SSD (Crucial M4) thinking it was causing it. I received a new one today and still receive the same blue screen. The blue screen is random. It happens sometimes at idle, while browsing the web, and playing games. I ran memtest with no errors as well. I've set the BIOS to defaults and still have blue screens, etc. I've tried the latest Intel network driver and the network driver from the ASUS cd and both give me the errors. It is just weird because sometimes I can go a day or two without a blue screen and sometimes I get several in one day.

I called ASUS and they gave me some bs about if it posts and boots then it isn't the motherboard. I don't buy that obviously because I know things can _work_, but still be faulty. Right now I'm at the point of RMA'ing the motherboard, but I figured I would seek assistance from the great member base of this forum and see if someone can shed a little more light on it.

I'm running no overclock again right now over the next couple days to see if I get any blue screens. I don't know why that would cause the blue screens since I ran Prime 95 for over 10 hours with no issues and the only thing I changed when I started noticing the blue screens was the SSD from a Vertex 2 to a Crucial M4.

Quick run down of my computer is below:
ASUS P8P67 Pro 3.0
Intel 2500k
G.Skill 8GB ram
Corsair TX750 PSU

Thank you for any help you can provide,
Jared
Quote:


> Microsoft (R) Windows Debugger Version 6.2.8229.0 AMD64
> Copyright (c) Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.
> 
> Loading Dump File [C:\Windows\Minidump\040912-7300-01.dmp]
> Mini Kernel Dump File: Only registers and stack trace are available
> 
> Symbol search path is: SRV*C:\Symbols*http://msdl.microsoft.com/download/symbols
> Executable search path is:
> Windows 7 Kernel Version 7601 (Service Pack 1) MP (4 procs) Free x64
> Product: WinNt, suite: TerminalServer SingleUserTS
> Built by: 7601.17727.amd64fre.win7sp1_gdr.111118-2330
> Machine Name:
> Kernel base = 0xfffff800`02e18000 PsLoadedModuleList = 0xfffff800`0305c650
> Debug session time: Mon Apr 9 20:46:48.161 2012 (UTC - 4:00)
> System Uptime: 0 days 1:37:47.409
> Loading Kernel Symbols
> ...............................................................
> ................................................................
> ...........................................
> Loading User Symbols
> Loading unloaded module list
> .........................
> TRIAGER: Could not open triage file : C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Kits\8.0\Debuggers\x64\triage\oca.ini, error 2
> TRIAGER: Could not open triage file : C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Kits\8.0\Debuggers\x64\winxp\triage.ini, error 2
> *******************************************************************************
> * *
> * Bugcheck Analysis *
> * *
> *******************************************************************************
> 
> Use !analyze -v to get detailed debugging information.
> 
> BugCheck 1000007E, {ffffffffc0000005, fffff880015237ba, fffff880031bd708, fffff880031bcf60}
> 
> *** WARNING: Unable to verify timestamp for epfwwfp.sys
> *** ERROR: Module load completed but symbols could not be loaded for epfwwfp.sys
> TRIAGER: Could not open triage file : C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Kits\8.0\Debuggers\x64\triage\modclass.ini, error 2
> Probably caused by : NETIO.SYS ( NETIO!NetioCompleteCloneNetBufferListChain+9a )
> 
> Followup: MachineOwner
> 
> 2: kd> !analyze -v
> *******************************************************************************
> * *
> * Bugcheck Analysis *
> * *
> *******************************************************************************
> 
> SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED_M (1000007e)
> This is a very common bugcheck. Usually the exception address pinpoints
> the driver/function that caused the problem. Always note this address
> as well as the link date of the driver/image that contains this address.
> Some common problems are exception code 0x80000003. This means a hard
> coded breakpoint or assertion was hit, but this system was booted
> /NODEBUG. This is not supposed to happen as developers should never have
> hardcoded breakpoints in retail code, but ...
> If this happens, make sure a debugger gets connected, and the
> system is booted /DEBUG. This will let us see why this breakpoint is
> happening.
> Arguments:
> Arg1: ffffffffc0000005, The exception code that was not handled
> Arg2: fffff880015237ba, The address that the exception occurred at
> Arg3: fffff880031bd708, Exception Record Address
> Arg4: fffff880031bcf60, Context Record Address
> 
> Debugging Details:
> 
> TRIAGER: Could not open triage file : C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Kits\8.0\Debuggers\x64\triage\modclass.ini, error 2
> 
> EXCEPTION_CODE: (NTSTATUS) 0xc0000005 - The instruction at 0x%08lx referenced memory at 0x%08lx. The memory could not be %s.
> 
> FAULTING_IP:
> NETIO!NetioCompleteCloneNetBufferListChain+9a
> fffff880`015237ba 488b01 mov rax,qword ptr [rcx]
> 
> EXCEPTION_RECORD: fffff880031bd708 -- (.exr 0xfffff880031bd708)
> ExceptionAddress: fffff880015237ba (NETIO!NetioCompleteCloneNetBufferListChain+0x000000000000009a)
> ExceptionCode: c0000005 (Access violation)
> ExceptionFlags: 00000000
> NumberParameters: 2
> Parameter[0]: 0000000000000000
> Parameter[1]: 0000000000000000
> Attempt to read from address 0000000000000000
> 
> CONTEXT: fffff880031bcf60 -- (.cxr 0xfffff880031bcf60)
> rax=fffffa8008a863b0 rbx=fffffa8006e36160 rcx=0000000000000000
> rdx=0000000000001000 rsi=00000000fffffe0d rdi=fffff880031bd900
> rip=fffff880015237ba rsp=fffff880031bd940 rbp=fffffa800807e000
> r8=fffff78000000320 r9=0000000000000002 r10=fffff88002f65e80
> r11=fffffa800808a5e0 r12=0000000000000000 r13=0000000000000000
> r14=0000000000000000 r15=0000000000000000
> iopl=0 nv up ei ng nz na pe nc
> cs=0010 ss=0018 ds=002b es=002b fs=0053 gs=002b efl=00010282
> NETIO!NetioCompleteCloneNetBufferListChain+0x9a:
> fffff880`015237ba 488b01 mov rax,qword ptr [rcx] ds:002b:00000000`00000000=????????????????
> Resetting default scope
> 
> CUSTOMER_CRASH_COUNT: 1
> 
> DEFAULT_BUCKET_ID: NULL_DEREFERENCE
> 
> PROCESS_NAME: System
> 
> CURRENT_IRQL: 0
> 
> ERROR_CODE: (NTSTATUS) 0xc0000005 - The instruction at 0x%08lx referenced memory at 0x%08lx. The memory could not be %s.
> 
> EXCEPTION_PARAMETER1: 0000000000000000
> 
> EXCEPTION_PARAMETER2: 0000000000000000
> 
> READ_ADDRESS: GetPointerFromAddress: unable to read from fffff800030c6100
> GetUlongFromAddress: unable to read from fffff800030c61c0
> 0000000000000000 Nonpaged pool
> 
> FOLLOWUP_IP:
> NETIO!NetioCompleteCloneNetBufferListChain+9a
> fffff880`015237ba 488b01 mov rax,qword ptr [rcx]
> 
> BUGCHECK_STR: 0x7E
> 
> LAST_CONTROL_TRANSFER: from fffff88001515336 to fffff880015237ba
> 
> STACK_TEXT:
> fffff880`031bd940 fffff880`01515336 : 00000000`00000000 fffffa80`06e36030 00000000`00000000 fffff880`031bd900 : NETIO!NetioCompleteCloneNetBufferListChain+0x9a
> fffff880`031bd9b0 fffff880`01897256 : fffffa80`06e36030 fffffa80`0a218c90 fffffa80`0a218c90 fffffa80`06e36100 : NETIO!NetioDereferenceNetBufferList+0x86
> fffff880`031bd9e0 fffff880`04607018 : fffff880`0460c7e0 fffffa80`06e36160 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 : fwpkclnt!FwpsDereferenceNetBufferList0+0xaa
> fffff880`031bda30 fffff880`0460c7e0 : fffffa80`06e36160 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 fffff880`0460c7e0 : epfwwfp+0x7018
> fffff880`031bda38 fffffa80`06e36160 : 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 fffff880`0460c7e0 fffff880`0460705a : epfwwfp+0xc7e0
> fffff880`031bda40 00000000`00000000 : 00000000`00000000 fffff880`0460c7e0 fffff880`0460705a 00000000`00000000 : 0xfffffa80`06e36160
> 
> SYMBOL_STACK_INDEX: 0
> 
> SYMBOL_NAME: NETIO!NetioCompleteCloneNetBufferListChain+9a
> 
> FOLLOWUP_NAME: MachineOwner
> 
> MODULE_NAME: NETIO
> 
> IMAGE_NAME: NETIO.SYS
> 
> DEBUG_FLR_IMAGE_TIMESTAMP: 4ce79381
> 
> STACK_COMMAND: .cxr 0xfffff880031bcf60 ; kb
> 
> FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: X64_0x7E_NETIO!NetioCompleteCloneNetBufferListChain+9a
> 
> BUCKET_ID: X64_0x7E_NETIO!NetioCompleteCloneNetBufferListChain+9a
> 
> Followup: MachineOwner


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> Anyone know if the EVO supports 3-way SLI/Crossfire? Because I see it says 8x/8x/4x PCI Ex16 support.
> I should have my board this week (according to the seller).
> Thanks guys, can't wait to join the club!!!


I take it, no one knows the answer to this?


----------



## Mister Duke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> I take it, no one knows the answer to this?


No, it's a 2-way SLI/Crossfire mobo. 3-way SLI requires a secondary nVidia chipset.


----------



## chillidog

MaStA819
just an idea but i did sone digging around and came up with this.
have you tried doing a full memtest if so only run one stick at a time and see what happens?
your c4 ssd is the firmware up to date i know that a while ago they had problems with old firmware?
are you running a full microsoft copy of os? not copied
check and make sure all your drivers are up to date
i have also found that people have had this trouble and found that it was down to psu on its way out
also people had this problem with faulty memory slots,not seated properly etc.its worth trying these things out before you rma.

am no expert but this is what i digged up over the net and is only a suggestion of possibilities


----------



## MaStA819

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> MaStA819
> just an idea but i did sone digging around and came up with this.
> have you tried doing a full memtest if so only run one stick at a time and see what happens?
> your c4 ssd is the firmware up to date i know that a while ago they had problems with old firmware?
> are you running a full microsoft copy of os? not copied
> check and make sure all your drivers are up to date
> i have also found that people have had this trouble and found that it was down to psu on its way out
> also people had this problem with faulty memory slots,not seated properly etc.its worth trying these things out before you rma.
> am no expert but this is what i digged up over the net and is only a suggestion of possibilities


Thank you for the reply.

I have ran a full memtest and let it do several passes with no errors. I can try running it with one stick at a time even though I'm not sure that would help much with it passing with both installed.

Firmware on my SSD is up to date.

My OS cd is an ISO burned from my school's MSDNAA website that I have been using since Windows 7 was released. I've had no issues with it in the past.

Drivers are all up to date and are the newest out.

I will test my PSU with a multimeter and see how it is doing.

Someone on another forum stated that it seems like ESET Nod32 Antivirus and Firewall was causing the issue or at least it referenced one of its files. I uninstalled it for now, but I don't understand how that could be causing a problem since I've been using it for years with no issue until I replaced my OCZ SSD with a Crucial M4.

This just sucks...


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mister Duke*
> 
> No, it's a 2-way SLI/Crossfire mobo. 3-way SLI requires a secondary nVidia chipset.


Ahh..I see. Ok, thanks for replying.


----------



## LittleMike

Hey guys,

New here, but I'd like to join the club.

CPU-Z validation here:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2327642

Actually, I think it qualifies me for a few clubs!









-Little Mike


----------



## ThaSpacePope

*P8Z68-V Pro/Gen 3: USB 3.0 Header ports (USB3_34) still work even with PCIx16_3 (black) occupied. Anyone confirm this?*

I have a haf x and my front panel directly plugged into the 20 pin mobo header as per the manual, pages 2-12, 2-13, 2-2.

Just for kicks today I plugged something into my blue 3.0 ports and windows crashed. I chuckled a bit but upon reboot, the device I plugged into it (a game pad using usb 2.0) is now working fine! The manual clearly states that if the PCIx16_3 is occupied ( have an amd 6450 in there) that the mobo header is disabled (even if the x16_3 slot is run in x1 mode)

But clearly it isn't. Can anyone confirm this is manual misprint, or something?

Also, just out of curiosity, does anyone know if I use intel hd3000 graphics on my i5-2500k, it uses any pci-e lanes?


----------



## paradoxum

p8p67 pro; does anyone know why my clock speed is fixed at my overclock speed? I want it to only use the OC speed under load, I have speedstep and .. I forgot what it was, the other thing that sounds like speedstep enabled but it's not clocking down when not under load - any ideas?

edit: changing C1E to Enabled instead of Auto did it.


----------



## paradoxum

I have a strange problem.

I'm trying to use SpeedStep, but my PC is freezing and BSODing when it is cool. That's right, when my PC has not been running for a couple of hours and cools down, if I turn it on and use SpeedStep, it will freeze and / or BSOD.

If I run my PC for a couple hours using a fixed overclock, then reboot and change back to enabling SpeedStep, it will run fine now that it has "warmed up".

*** is going on?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> I have a strange problem.
> 
> I'm trying to use SpeedStep, but my PC is freezing and BSODing when it is cool. That's right, when my PC has not been running for a couple of hours and cools down, if I turn it on and use SpeedStep, it will freeze and / or BSOD.
> 
> If I run my PC for a couple hours using a fixed overclock, then reboot and change back to enabling SpeedStep, it will run fine now that it has "warmed up".
> 
> *** is going on?


Idle time BSOD can come from a few causes not the least of which is to low idle time Vcore. If you are overclocked you may need to bump LLC. If not OCing, did you set optimized defaults in your bios when you 1st setup the machine, are currently on the latest bios or what ver? It may also depend on your current Windows power/performance settings and how you setup your "C" states in bios. Then there's software and or a corrupt windows installation or update that could cause BSODs. Bottom line it's hard to pin point what may be your issue based on what we know so far. Try telling us what you've done so far, what your system specs are, what recent changes, new build, old build, windows ver. current bios setting and last but not least what you've tried so far.

edit: I see some answers in your sig and that's a good start so I know W7 64 your gear etc now for the rest of the story. How did you setup speedstep??


----------



## Lutsk92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mister Duke*
> 
> No, it's a 2-way SLI/Crossfire mobo. 3-way SLI requires a secondary nVidia chipset.


Aw, damn it, not the answer I was looking for.. So I may have a third GTX SC 580 coming up soon but still am with P8P67 Deluxe. What's the best solution? Which MoBo should I go for 3-Way?
I know i'm in the wrong thread but hey, help a brother out. ^^


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutsk92*
> 
> Aw, damn it, not the answer I was looking for.. So I may have a third GTX SC 580 coming up soon but still am with P8P67 Deluxe. What's the best solution? Which MoBo should I go for 3-Way?
> I know i'm in the wrong thread but hey, help a brother out. ^^


I just found that Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3 does support 3-way and is based on the P67 chipset. I know you're probably only wanting to stick with ASUS, but as far from my researching (using google), I found that ASUS P8P67 WS Revolution is the only board that supports it from its on P67 lineup. Otherwise, we either have to switch to X79 or reverse back to X58.

Hope this helps.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Idle time BSOD can come from a few causes not the least of which is to low idle time Vcore. If you are overclocked you may need to bump LLC. If not OCing, did you set optimized defaults in your bios when you 1st setup the machine, are currently on the latest bios or what ver? It may also depend on your current Windows power/performance settings and how you setup your "C" states in bios. Then there's software and or a corrupt windows installation or update that could cause BSODs. Bottom line it's hard to pin point what may be your issue based on what we know so far. Try telling us what you've done so far, what your system specs are, what recent changes, new build, old build, windows ver. current bios setting and last but not least what you've tried so far.
> 
> edit: I see some answers in your sig and that's a good start so I know W7 64 your gear etc now for the rest of the story. How did you setup speedstep??


I have to enable C1E state to get speedstep working, if left on Auto or Disable it doesn't work despite speedstep being Enabled.

I am on the latest bios and after updating I did a total reset of the settings / pulled the battery etc.

I tried the other 2 C-state options on auto and disabled and enabled, same thing, freezing when my PC is cold using speedstep.


----------



## alancsalt

There's the WS server board in the Asus family with the added latency of the Nvidia chip that enables it, or the new 77 chipset Gigabyte G1 Sniper uses some other chip to enable it..


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Idle time BSOD can come from a few causes not the least of which is to low idle time Vcore. If you are overclocked you may need to bump LLC. If not OCing, did you set optimized defaults in your bios when you 1st setup the machine, are currently on the latest bios or what ver? It may also depend on your current Windows power/performance settings and how you setup your "C" states in bios. Then there's software and or a corrupt windows installation or update that could cause BSODs. Bottom line it's hard to pin point what may be your issue based on what we know so far. Try telling us what you've done so far, what your system specs are, what recent changes, new build, old build, windows ver. current bios setting and last but not least what you've tried so far.
> 
> edit: I see some answers in your sig and that's a good start so I know W7 64 your gear etc now for the rest of the story. How did you setup speedstep??
> 
> 
> 
> I have to enable C1E state to get speedstep working, if left on Auto or Disable it doesn't work despite speedstep being Enabled.
> 
> I am on the latest bios and after updating I did a total reset of the settings / pulled the battery etc.
> 
> I tried the other 2 C-state options on auto and disabled and enabled, same thing, freezing when my PC is cold using speedstep.
Click to expand...

Could be the board and then again the proc. Take your proc in to a local shop and have them check it out on another mobo. If the proc works properly there I would RMA the mother board otherwise the proc. GL


----------



## dartuil

hello men do you use HDD shut down when they are in a idle time?
cause when my samsung 103sj get up it make a noise


----------



## IEATFISH

I just tried to pair my Jawbone Jambox with my motherboard bluetooth and it was a huge delay and very choppy. I had up to date drivers and everything. I ended up using an older bluetooth dongle I had and it works fine. Anyone had issues with bluetooth on their boards?


----------



## Molybdenum

I picked up a Asus P9Z68-Deluxe for cheap because it had a couple bent pins (about 5), fixed those and it seems to be working








However, I'm having a hard time OCing. I've updated my bios to the latest (3203), but I can't seem to boot into windows with any multiplier higher than 45 (45 works, 46+ doesn't). I don't have PLL overvoltage on, because it seems like this is only needed for 4.8+, if even, but I can't even get 46x to load into windows. They stop after W7 does its swirl thing, sometimes I get a 124 BSOD, but usually not. I like to use sleep, so I'd rather avoid PLL if I can. (It also isn't the best for the chip, correct?)
I've tried varying my multiplier around 46, 47,48, various vcore (1.38, 1.39, 1.40, 1.41, 1.43) and offset +0.04 or 0.06, as well as combinations of ultra-high LLC, high LLC, C3/C6 enabled or disabled and nada. I've been able to boot 47x and 48x once or twice and was able to check VID in Realtemp but, I can't remember if this was before or after I updated bios (likely before), and now I can't seem to get back there.
Any tips for OCing on this Asus board? I followed TwoCables's guide in the OP, but I can't boot into windows with the 48x, and even 47 or 46 don't work with the same settings. I had a lower end MSI board before and was at 4.4, would like to push that a little higher now that I can control vccio and such. (And not capped at 1.35 vcore)

And this stupid deluxe board doesn't have any video out







I liked using the iGPU for a 3rd monitor. Guess those days are gone. But I do have two LAN/ethernet ports









edit: double post, sorry, dumb laptop.

edit2: I seem to having a little more success with XMP mode rather than manual. I'll keep tinkering


----------



## Molybdenum

Accidental double post, sorry. If this one could be deleted, that would be great!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> I picked up a Asus P9Z68-Deluxe for cheap because it had a couple bent pins (about 5), fixed those and it seems to be working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, I'm having a hard time OCing. I've updated my bios to the latest (3203), but I can't seem to boot into windows with any multiplier higher than 45 (45 works, 46+ doesn't). I don't have PLL overvoltage on, because it seems like this is only needed for 4.8+, if even, but I can't even get 46x to load into windows. They stop after W7 does its swirl thing, sometimes I get a 124 BSOD, but usually not. I like to use sleep, so I'd rather avoid PLL if I can. (It also isn't the best for the chip, correct?)
> I've tried varying my multiplier around 46, 47,48, various vcore (1.38, 1.39, 1.40, 1.41, 1.43) and offset +0.04 or 0.06, as well as combinations of ultra-high LLC, high LLC, C3/C6 enabled or disabled and nada. I've been able to boot 47x and 48x once or twice and was able to check VID in Realtemp but, I can't remember if this was before or after I updated bios (likely before), and now I can't seem to get back there.
> Any tips for OCing on this Asus board? I followed TwoCables's guide in the OP, but I can't boot into windows with the 48x, and even 47 or 46 don't work with the same settings. I had a lower end MSI board before and was at 4.4, would like to push that a little higher now that I can control vccio and such. (And not capped at 1.35 vcore)
> And this stupid deluxe board doesn't have any video out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked using the iGPU for a 3rd monitor. Guess those days are gone. But I do have two LAN/ethernet ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: double post, sorry, dumb laptop.
> edit2: I seem to having a little more success with XMP mode rather than manual. I'll keep tinkering



http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265398-Official-ASUS-P8P67-Series-Overclocking-Guide-and-Information

So many opinions, but this worked for me on P8P67 Pro and P8z68 Deluxe/Gen3.......


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> I picked up a Asus P9Z68-Deluxe for cheap because it had a couple bent pins (about 5), fixed those and it seems to be working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, I'm having a hard time OCing. I've updated my bios to the latest (3203), but I can't seem to boot into windows with any multiplier higher than 45 (45 works, 46+ doesn't). I don't have PLL overvoltage on, because it seems like this is only needed for 4.8+, if even, but I can't even get 46x to load into windows. They stop after W7 does its swirl thing, sometimes I get a 124 BSOD, but usually not. I like to use sleep, so I'd rather avoid PLL if I can. (It also isn't the best for the chip, correct?)
> I've tried varying my multiplier around 46, 47,48, various vcore (1.38, 1.39, 1.40, 1.41, 1.43) and offset +0.04 or 0.06, as well as combinations of ultra-high LLC, high LLC, C3/C6 enabled or disabled and nada. I've been able to boot 47x and 48x once or twice and was able to check VID in Realtemp but, I can't remember if this was before or after I updated bios (likely before), and now I can't seem to get back there.
> Any tips for OCing on this Asus board? I followed TwoCables's guide in the OP, but I can't boot into windows with the 48x, and even 47 or 46 don't work with the same settings. I had a lower end MSI board before and was at 4.4, would like to push that a little higher now that I can control vccio and such. (And not capped at 1.35 vcore)
> And this stupid deluxe board doesn't have any video out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked using the iGPU for a 3rd monitor. Guess those days are gone. But I do have two LAN/ethernet ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: double post, sorry, dumb laptop.
> edit2: I seem to having a little more success with XMP mode rather than manual. I'll keep tinkering


It's your vrm frequency. You need to set it to 400 or a little more maybe 420. I wrestled with this for a day probably my self and changed that setting and I was amazed at how easily I could keep going higher after that.

Did this after finding that out.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2171804


----------



## swarm87

does anyone know if there's a way to use the iGPU and the pcie gpu at the same time(cant find it in the bios)? im asking because i just learned that my video card(gtx 570SC) cannot bitstream hd audio via the hdmi port and i can not seem to find a way to decode dts-hd master audio with windvd11 pro.


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Hi guys







I've p8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3. My problem is about HDDs. I've 4 disks and all of them are Sata 3 - 1TB

2 of them on Intel, and 2 of them on Marvel. And on marvel's looks like USB SCSI disks?? And looks like they're slow





What must I do? And I'm not sure these are on marvel or intel slots...


----------



## [T]yphoon

does anyone know if the Intel Core i5 3570k (Ivy Bridge) work on a Asus P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3?
because mine just does a reboot loop with RAM








without RAM it doesnt do a reboot loop but wont show anything (already tried it without the gpu)


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[T]yphoon*
> 
> does anyone know if the Intel Core i5 3570k (Ivy Bridge) work on a Asus P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3?
> because mine just does a reboot loop with RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> without RAM it doesnt do a reboot loop but wont show anything (already tried it without the gpu)


You will have to test the cpu in another machine some how.

It will never post without memory in it.


----------



## EventHorizon

Anybody with a P8P67 Pro know if you can control 3-pin fans? I've downloaded fan xpert but I can't seem to get it to control my fans.

Also, I hear you can't plug it into the 4 pin header?


----------



## Molybdenum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EventHorizon*
> 
> Anybody with a P8P67 Pro know if you can control 3-pin fans? I've downloaded fan xpert but I can't seem to get it to control my fans.
> 
> Also, I hear you can't plug it into the 4 pin header?


3 pin headers can't be controlled, the 3 pins are for +12 V, ground, and the tachometer (measures RPM), only a 4 pin fan can be controlled. The 4th pin is for 'pulse width modulation', or controlling the speed of the fan. You'll need a 4-pin PWM fan plugged in in order to control it; you can't plug a 3-pin fan into the 4 pin controller and use PWM.
If you want to control the speed on your 3 pin fans, your options are to get a fan controller (uses resistance), set up a resistor, or run the fan on 5 V or 7 V from the PSU if you want it slower/quieter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up a Asus P9Z68-Deluxe for cheap because it had a couple bent pins (about 5), fixed those and it seems to be working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, I'm having a hard time OCing. I've updated my bios to the latest (3203), but I can't seem to boot into windows with any multiplier higher than 45 (45 works, 46+ doesn't). I don't have PLL overvoltage on, because it seems like this is only needed for 4.8+, if even, but I can't even get 46x to load into windows. They stop after W7 does its swirl thing, sometimes I get a 124 BSOD, but usually not. I like to use sleep, so I'd rather avoid PLL if I can. (It also isn't the best for the chip, correct?)
> I've tried varying my multiplier around 46, 47,48, various vcore (1.38, 1.39, 1.40, 1.41, 1.43) and offset +0.04 or 0.06, as well as combinations of ultra-high LLC, high LLC, C3/C6 enabled or disabled and nada. I've been able to boot 47x and 48x once or twice and was able to check VID in Realtemp but, I can't remember if this was before or after I updated bios (likely before), and now I can't seem to get back there.
> Any tips for OCing on this Asus board? I followed TwoCables's guide in the OP, but I can't boot into windows with the 48x, and even 47 or 46 don't work with the same settings. I had a lower end MSI board before and was at 4.4, would like to push that a little higher now that I can control vccio and such. (And not capped at 1.35 vcore)
> And this stupid deluxe board doesn't have any video out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked using the iGPU for a 3rd monitor. Guess those days are gone. But I do have two LAN/ethernet ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: double post, sorry, dumb laptop.
> edit2: I seem to having a little more success with XMP mode rather than manual. I'll keep tinkering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265398-Official-ASUS-P8P67-Series-Overclocking-Guide-and-Information
> 
> So many opinions, but this worked for me on P8P67 Pro and P8z68 Deluxe/Gen3.......
Click to expand...

Great read, thanks a bunch. Sounds like I fall into the larger range of crappier chips, thanks for the info!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up a Asus P9Z68-Deluxe for cheap because it had a couple bent pins (about 5), fixed those and it seems to be working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, I'm having a hard time OCing. I've updated my bios to the latest (3203), but I can't seem to boot into windows with any multiplier higher than 45 (45 works, 46+ doesn't). I don't have PLL overvoltage on, because it seems like this is only needed for 4.8+, if even, but I can't even get 46x to load into windows. They stop after W7 does its swirl thing, sometimes I get a 124 BSOD, but usually not. I like to use sleep, so I'd rather avoid PLL if I can. (It also isn't the best for the chip, correct?)
> I've tried varying my multiplier around 46, 47,48, various vcore (1.38, 1.39, 1.40, 1.41, 1.43) and offset +0.04 or 0.06, as well as combinations of ultra-high LLC, high LLC, C3/C6 enabled or disabled and nada. I've been able to boot 47x and 48x once or twice and was able to check VID in Realtemp but, I can't remember if this was before or after I updated bios (likely before), and now I can't seem to get back there.
> Any tips for OCing on this Asus board? I followed TwoCables's guide in the OP, but I can't boot into windows with the 48x, and even 47 or 46 don't work with the same settings. I had a lower end MSI board before and was at 4.4, would like to push that a little higher now that I can control vccio and such. (And not capped at 1.35 vcore)
> And this stupid deluxe board doesn't have any video out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked using the iGPU for a 3rd monitor. Guess those days are gone. But I do have two LAN/ethernet ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: double post, sorry, dumb laptop.
> edit2: I seem to having a little more success with XMP mode rather than manual. I'll keep tinkering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's your vrm frequency. You need to set it to 400 or a little more maybe 420. I wrestled with this for a day probably my self and changed that setting and I was amazed at how easily I could keep going higher after that.
> 
> Did this after finding that out.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2171804
Click to expand...

Thanks, I tried 400 and 420, but still couldn't boot with anything higher than x45 (no PLL), guess I just haev a bad chip. Ah well. Thanks for the idea, and that's an awesome OC


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[T]yphoon*
> 
> does anyone know if the Intel Core i5 3570k (Ivy Bridge) work on a Asus P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3?
> because mine just does a reboot loop with RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> without RAM it doesnt do a reboot loop but wont show anything (already tried it without the gpu)


Where in the heck did you get one







To my knowledge they have not been released yet. I intend to get a 3770k for my V-Pro B3 and it will require a bios update that I do not need ATM so maybe try that. You lucky dog.....


----------



## EventHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> 3 pin headers can't be controlled, the 3 pins are for +12 V, ground, and the tachometer (measures RPM), only a 4 pin fan can be controlled. The 4th pin is for 'pulse width modulation', or controlling the speed of the fan. You'll need a 4-pin PWM fan plugged in in order to control it; you can't plug a 3-pin fan into the 4 pin controller and use PWM.
> If you want to control the speed on your 3 pin fans, your options are to get a fan controller (uses resistance), set up a resistor, or run the fan on 5 V or 7 V from the PSU if you want it slower/quieter.


Thanks for the tips, but I think you misunderstood me.

The mobo can regulate voltage going to the 3-pin headers, I just couldn't get the software to work.

Fixed after playing with it for awhile and now my 3-pin fans can be controlled via the software.

Also, I have a 3-pin fan plugged into the 4-pin CPU fan header but its getting a horrible buzzing noise. It doesn't even have the 4th pin, where does the noise come from?


----------



## General121

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i424/***eneral/cpuvalid.jpg


----------



## [T]yphoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *[T]yphoon*
> 
> does anyone know if the Intel Core i5 3570k (Ivy Bridge) work on a Asus P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3?
> because mine just does a reboot loop with RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> without RAM it doesnt do a reboot loop but wont show anything (already tried it without the gpu)
> 
> 
> 
> Where in the heck did you get one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To my knowledge they have not been released yet. I intend to get a 3770k for my V-Pro B3 and it will require a bios update that I do not need ATM so maybe try that. You lucky dog.....
Click to expand...

damn, so i need to buy a damn SB cpu just to update my BIOS?
i really need to complain to Asus about this jack *****
IB ready? no its not

btw, dutch webshops are selling the IB i5's


----------



## SgtHop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[T]yphoon*
> 
> damn, so i need to buy a damn SB cpu just to update my BIOS?
> i really need to complain to Asus about this jack *****
> IB ready? no its not
> btw, dutch webshops are selling the IB i5's


You probably got an old stock of the board. Only the newest ones would have the latest BIOS. If you got it from a shop, take it back to them and have them reflash the BIOS. If you got it online, get a refund and pick up a Z77 board which is designed for IB.


----------



## Nano5656

could use some help here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244487/cant-get-asus-p8z68-v-lx-to-recognize-any-hard-drives-in-bios-for-windows-7-install#post_17001248

getting ready to return board


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Here is my bios screen. I've 4 disks but I see only 2 ?





I did use 8 and 9



Is there a problem with this board?


----------



## SLI_Maniac

Check and make sure your Marvel and Intel SATA controllers are enabled. I had a similar issue.


----------



## Molybdenum

Yeah, especially check the marvel, those are labeled 8. I think the ports on 10 are native though, so if you switch to those (light gray), you'll be on the native support and be able to turn off marvel, which causes a screen to load on boot, then it kinda jumps back. It will load the asus screen, marvel screen, then back to the asus, then into windows. If you turn off the marvel, you can avoid this and get a little bit faster boot.


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

I never seen any marvel etc. when opening. And yes Marvel eneabled on bios. I see like this;



and bootup options



Ant the other thing; my system disk is marked one and I know I did conect to number 9 port



I can't see it on bios.



So this shows marvewl or Intel!?


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

And what are these OPROM things? Should I set to disabed or enabled?


----------



## garikfox

Enable the OPROM for Marvell, Disable JMB storage controller if your not using it

Make sure your Intel SATA is set too AHCI, not sure why your using IDE


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

No It's AHCI, just for screen shot.


----------



## garikfox

Ok, Everything looks fine to me, Just enable the OPROM for Marvell this will show you the controller status at bootup.

What problems were you having ? I dont see a problem with your pictures.


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Quote:


> Just enable the OPROM for Marvell this will show you the controller status at bootup.


But I can't see anything about Marvell on bootup!?? In normally, when bootup I must see 4 HDD right? I just see 2 HDD. I mean this picture



and found the Marvell ones in bootup menu. And there is an option called " Drive expert" for super speed.



But says "if you choose, all data will be destroyed"


----------



## garikfox

That top picture will only show whats attached to the Intel ports


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

I found this (changed something on boot menu) and could see Marvell discs with CTRL+M when boots up. But what are these? I checked one of them with "enter" and said "Erase raid config data" and I said ok, than asked "Are u Sure" than I didn't do anything















Sorry guys If I'm boring you, just want to learn


----------



## garikfox

Np, Thats the Marvell RAID config menu, you dont have to mess with it unless you want RAID on those two disks


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Thanks









My problem is, let me explain;

When I join a folder (connected to marvell ports) that has too many files, folders.. looks slow to show them. Takes 2-3 seconds. My old system was better with 4 HDDs. My new system is enough to work fast









Do you advice; if I carry my HDDs from Marvel to SATA 2 ports, will be better? Says sata3 6GB, but I don't feel like sata3.


----------



## garikfox

Just put all the Disks on the Intel ports and Disable the Marvell, thats what I would do if I was you


----------



## dartuil

men i can now buy a 2600k will not buy ivy bridge cause its 40$ too expensive is that ok?
2600k is enough


----------



## noblejose

Guys,
I am new to Overclocking! I have just completed my new rig,

Core i7-2600K (3.4-3.8GHz) stock, OC'd to 4.6GHz
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 1600
CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO
PowerSuppy: CORSAIR TX750 V2
Primary Drive: SSD, Samsung 830 Series 64GB
Data Drive: Seagate 1TB 7200RPM 64MB Cache
Backup Drives: Seagate 1TB and Transcend 620GB
Case: COOLER MASTER Storm Scout
DVD-RW: ASUS 24X
Display: 24" Samsung Full HD
UPS: Intex 1KVA dual battery

Now I have to try Overclock! I am not much familiar to Bios settings / V core adjustments. My Rams were running 1333 but I have changed it to XMP and now running 1600. The AI suite II looks promising but I don't know that is the perfect method to do OC.

I am using my system for Photoshop/ indesign/ illustrator and some Video Editing with Premiere and After Effects plus some web browsing and movies too. I am looking forward to do an OC which will boost the performance on demand, may be a 4.2 - 4.6 GHz. I am looking to auto down-clock while browsing / watching movies to reduce unnecessary power / heat. Will it be possible via 'auto tune' in AI Suite?? or do I need to do in Bios manually.

Thanks all experts!
-noble


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noblejose*
> 
> Guys,
> I am new to Overclocking! I have just completed my new rig,
> 
> Core i7-2600K (3.4-3.8GHz) stock, OC'd to 4.6GHz
> Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 1600
> CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO
> PowerSuppy: CORSAIR TX750 V2
> Primary Drive: SSD, Samsung 830 Series 64GB
> Data Drive: Seagate 1TB 7200RPM 64MB Cache
> Backup Drives: Seagate 1TB and Transcend 620GB
> Case: COOLER MASTER Storm Scout
> DVD-RW: ASUS 24X
> Display: 24" Samsung Full HD
> UPS: Intex 1KVA dual battery
> 
> Now I have to try Overclock! I am not much familiar to Bios settings / V core adjustments. My Rams were running 1333 but I have changed it to XMP and now running 1600. The AI suite II looks promising but I don't know that is the perfect method to do OC.
> 
> I am using my system for Photoshop/ indesign/ illustrator and some Video Editing with Premiere and After Effects plus some web browsing and movies too. I am looking forward to do an OC which will boost the performance on demand, may be a 4.2 - 4.6 GHz. I am looking to auto down-clock while browsing / watching movies to reduce unnecessary power / heat. Will it be possible via 'auto tune' in AI Suite?? or do I need to do in Bios manually.
> 
> Thanks all experts!
> -noble


*Do not* use auto oc or software (AI Suite) to OC. Use Lucid virtu d-mode for the best trascoding results i-mode saves a bit more power but at the expense of 3D performance. Use offset +/- Vcore method to OC, Intel Speedstep, EPU & C1E (disable C3 &C6) for power saving. This stuff has to be disabled so it should be working now unless you turned it off to OC. If on already you will note the proc multi drops to x16 (open an instance of CPUz) when you are browsing and so too does the Vcore and overall power demand. I use maximum power saving mode found in the AI Tweaker page when EPU is enabled and it works great for me. With 16GB memory consider if you have not already bumping VCCIO to 1.1v or (do not exceed 1.2v) more and thoroughly test your memory using HCI Design Memtest. XMP mode is fine (proven) but with your memory a spd profile exist to set manually to 1600 (AI Tweaker) with auto timings that will produce the same results and in many cases you can actually manually change the command rate to 1t (2t defaullt) when using 1.65v dimm & higher VCCIO which offers marginally better performance for the task you are looking at. Your obviously a tweaker so this may be appealing. Understand higher OCs require greater system overhead meaning a higher overall clock may be achievable but with the added overhead of using Lucid Virtu it may not be a practical idea. YMMV 4.6 is a modest OC and if you can get it all tuned in just right will probably be the most stable. I hope this helps GL


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Ok guys, I talked with technical service in my country. They said, check Advanced - Onboard Devices Conf. - Marvel Storage Controller and set it to AHCI. And I said there is no AHCI option !? Just "enabled" and "disabled" They said, must be there, otherwise your motherboard has a problem. We'll change it.

And checkid it;



and here found from another website, as you see there is an option for AHCI



anyone confirm that there is an AHCI opition for Marvel (deluxe gen 3) My bios is the latest one, 3202 ??


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> men i can now buy a 2600k will not buy ivy bridge cause its 40$ too expensive is that ok?
> 2600k is enough


yes, that is ok. sandybridges provide very good performance and to me, they are definitely worth it : )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Ok guys, I talked with technical service in my country. They said, check Advanced - Onboard Devices Conf. - Marvel Storage Controller and set it to AHCI. And I said there is no AHCI option !? Just "enabled" and "disabled" They said, must be there, otherwise your motherboard has a problem. We'll change it.
> And checkid it;
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here found from another website, as you see there is an option for AHCI
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone confirm that there is an AHCI opition for Marvel (deluxe gen 3) My bios is the latest one, 3202 ??


not sure why it is missing but have you updated your marvell drivers? Version 1.2.0.1002


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Except HDD performance, everything is ok. Really good motherbard









4600Mhz - 1.4V - 80C - Prime 95 is working (for now 13 Min.)


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Ok guys, I talked with technical service in my country. They said, check Advanced - Onboard Devices Conf. - Marvel Storage Controller and set it to AHCI. And I said there is no AHCI option !? Just "enabled" and "disabled" They said, must be there, otherwise your motherboard has a problem. We'll change it.
> And checkid it;
> and here found from another website, as you see there is an option for AHCI
> anyone confirm that there is an AHCI opition for Marvel (deluxe gen 3) My bios is the latest one, 3202 ??


It's available for me on V-Pro and should be on the Deluxe too. What Sata Mode are you in on the Advanced Sata Config Page? Caution making changes there. AHCI & RAID are interchangeable but switching to either of those from IDE may require a registry hack and or reinstall windows.


----------



## Phreshkhid

So Im at a lost, and I have no idea what to do anymore, I build my PC a few months ago. (Build in signature) And I always get random BSOD. I have updated all my drivers and BIOS from the ASUS site. Im getting to the point where I just want to replace the motherboard. Just want to make sure its the problem before I do. However I would like to fix the problem if I could. Any help would be great.
Attaching my minidump files from last BSOD
Thanks

I have the ASUS P8Z68-V

041812-12417-01.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreshkhid*
> 
> So Im at a lost, and I have no idea what to do anymore, I build my PC a few months ago. (Build in signature) And I always get random BSOD. I have updated all my drivers and BIOS from the ASUS site. Im getting to the point where I just want to replace the motherboard. Just want to make sure its the problem before I do. However I would like to fix the problem if I could. Any help would be great.
> Attaching my minidump files from last BSOD
> Thanks
> 
> I have the ASUS P8Z68-V
> 
> 041812-12417-01.zip 26k .zip file


are you over clocked


----------



## Phreshkhid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> are you over clocked


No not yet, I did just pick up a H80. I just want to get this figured out first

Thanks


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreshkhid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> are you over clocked
> 
> 
> 
> No not yet, I did just pick up a H80. I just want to get this figured out first
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

I can't read the dump on my laptop here. are these idle or load time BSODs or what are you doing when the BSODs happen


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Ok guys, I talked with technical service in my country. They said, check Advanced - Onboard Devices Conf. - Marvel Storage Controller and set it to AHCI. And I said there is no AHCI option !? Just "enabled" and "disabled" They said, must be there, otherwise your motherboard has a problem. We'll change it.
> And checkid it;
> 
> and here found from another website, as you see there is an option for AHCI
> 
> anyone confirm that there is an AHCI opition for Marvel (deluxe gen 3) My bios is the latest one, 3202 ??


Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver contains AHCI?


----------



## dafour

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreshkhid*
> 
> So Im at a lost, and I have no idea what to do anymore, I build my PC a few months ago. (Build in signature) And I always get random BSOD. I have updated all my drivers and BIOS from the ASUS site. Im getting to the point where I just want to replace the motherboard. Just want to make sure its the problem before I do. However I would like to fix the problem if I could. Any help would be great.
> Attaching my minidump files from last BSOD
> Thanks
> I have the ASUS P8Z68-V
> 
> 041812-12417-01.zip 26k .zip file


Try to disable CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report under CPU configuration.


----------



## noblejose

Hi all Experts! Here I am with my first Overclocking venture!
I have done AI auto tune in my mobo. Its running 4.4GHz under full load with BCLK automatically changed to 103 and multiplier 43. RAMs also overlocked a bit to 824 (824x2 = 1648) instead of XMP 1600. iGPU boost also enabled and high freq is increased to 1650 from 1150stock. CPU idles around 28C (ambient 28-30C), and around 64C under full load (Intel burn test).

But I heard that 'Auto Tune' is not a good idea to OC, and you should never change BCLK above its stock (100) ???

Please let me undo the autotune and change it manually, I think changing vCore to 1.3 and multiplier to 44 will do the trick, but how about that RAM OC and iGPU boost?? (I am running on intel GPU for the time being; so a bit boost will help). Thanks.


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

My Intel part;



and once I found here with CTRL+M


----------



## SLI_Maniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Except HDD performance, everything is ok. Really good motherbard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4600Mhz - 1.4V - 80C - Prime 95 is working (for now 13 Min.)


That temperature seems pretty high. Also I can pull off 1.33 for 4.6GHz so you may want to try and back down the voltage and see if you are stable. A quick way to test stability in Prime is to run custom 1344 and 1792 FFTs for 15 minutes each.


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

@ SLI_Maniac Thanks, I'll try


----------



## SLI_Maniac

Try to keep it under 75c while in prime95 to prevent the chip from degrading quickly. Also have you checked out the guide in the sandy stable club thread? Really helped me achieve my OC which is now at 4.9GHz


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Guys anybody confirm; do I have to change my board?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noblejose*
> 
> Hi all Experts! Here I am with my first Overclocking venture!
> I have done AI auto tune in my mobo. Its running 4.4GHz under full load with BCLK automatically changed to 103 and multiplier 43. RAMs also overlocked a bit to 824 (824x2 = 1648) instead of XMP 1600. iGPU boost also enabled and high freq is increased to 1650 from 1150stock. CPU idles around 28C (ambient 28-30C), and around 64C under full load (Intel burn test).
> But I heard that 'Auto Tune' is not a good idea to OC, and you should never change BCLK above its stock (100) ???
> Please let me undo the autotune and change it manually, I think changing vCore to 1.3 and multiplier to 44 will do the trick, but how about that RAM OC and iGPU boost?? (I am running on intel GPU for the time being; so a bit boost will help). Thanks.


check the front page on how to manually OC http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club . reset everything back and try to overclock one component at a time








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Guys anybody confirm; do I have to change my board?


have you updated to the latest marvell sata driver? http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68_DELUXEGEN3/#download


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Yes, but I can't see AHCI option in bios for Marvell. And technical service said there must be an option.

And my HDD performance are slow when I join a folder etc. But HD Tune says 120Mb etc.


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Ok guys, I solved the problem. Not about Marvel, Sata II or Sata III problem. The problem is about windows and apple's bonjour service. My windows is Turkish, so I don't know how can I explain. But I did stop Bonjour service... And now, it's perfect


----------



## Nethermir

wow that is weird. so the bonjour service prevents you from choosing the ahci on marvell?


----------



## Tradio

is it possible to use INTEL QUICK SYNC encoding while having a discrete GPU installed on the P8Z68-V PRO? If so, can someone please post instructions/link on how to exactly enable that

My understanding as is that Quick Sync is only available when using the onboard GPU but I also read that the z68 boards support Quick Sync when a GPU is installed. Is this true?


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Nothing about AHCI, motherboard or Marvell. Just bonjour ****









Because I went to techincal service and they said we'll change it. And they tested, no problem with motherboard. I just thought this is about windows problem, than tested and found this ****


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

I'm using real Temp. But ASUS Suite looks different. Which one is true?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> I'm using real Temp. But ASUS Suite looks different. Which one is true?


Neither. Both are approximations.

The boring reason why is in the way temperatures are "measured". Since core duo days there is no direct temp measurement. The dts sensors measure distance to throttling, not temp, and throttling is assumed to be TJmax. Everything below that is taken from an assumed temperature gradient that can be very inaccurate at idle. Temps under load are going to be more accurate. Until they "measure" temps differently, we're stuck with that.

That's my understanding of Unclewebb's explanation. He wrote Realtemp.
Quote:


> Intel never intended the DTS sensors to provide us with accurate temps, we can obviously read the data from them but the data they provide is to let us know how close the proc is getting to thermal shutdown. So they are mainly for fan speed control, and alerting of catastrophic cooling failure. But it is still nice to get a semi-accurate core temp to give us a decent idea how hot our procs are getting when we are trying to squeeze every little oz of Mhz from them


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?179044-Real-Temp-New-temp-program-for-Intel-Core-processors&p=2812536&viewfull=1#post2812536
Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by clicker666 View Post
> ... the TjMax may vary from processor to processor, is this correct?
> 
> 
> 
> There is nothing to prove that this is true or false at the moment. Personally I believe that TjMax is standardized across a process line so that all E8x00 dual core desktop processors with a CPUID of 0x10676 all use the same TjMax=95C. That assumption is what RealTemp is based on.
> 
> I think that if the factory is making 95C processors then each and every one is calibrated so that DTS=0 right at TjMax=95C. All of the 65nm mobile chips are documented to have a TjMax exactly equal to 100C and the new 45nm mobile chips are all set to exactly TjMax=105C so it doesn't make any sense to me that Intel would set all of the mobile chips to a fixed value but set all of the desktop chips to random TjMax values.
> 
> The (++) (--) feature is wide open to variables. For me, since the output from the DTS does not seem to be linear across the entire temperature range of the CPU, it provides me with the only way to make adjustments to idle temperatures to bring them more in line with measured temperatures as outlined in post#1. Without this adjustment, air cooled L2 processors either idle below ambient temperature which is impossible or you can use a TjMax=100C to cover up that problem and end up with them reporting that they are running far hotter than all of the other available Core2Duo processors. Neither solution is correct.
> 
> The Idle Calibration feature is just an approximation. It will never completely compensate for a DTS sensor that doesn't seem 100% accurate across the entire temperature operating range. It would be nice if a few users would try to calibrate as outlined in post #1 and report their findings. For me, my E6400 B2 needs a ++ calibration to keep it from reporting below ambient temperatures and my E8400 needs a -- calibration to bring it in line with my E6400. My CoreTemp testing which showed a 25C difference in idle temps between these two processors at the exact same core voltage, MHz and room temperature just doesn't make any sense. Real Temp idle readings should be within a degree or two now for these processors when calibrated.
Click to expand...

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?179044-Real-Temp-New-temp-program-for-Intel-Core-processors&p=2816252&viewfull=1#post2816252

That thread is all about real temp and temp measurement. A big read, but lets us know that truly accurate temp readings just aren't there, especially at idle.


----------



## noblejose

Thankyou all, I have reset my auto tune to stock clock in Bios and pushed manually to 4.4 with 44x Multiplier with 1.29v, running fine; idle at 33C (30C ambient) and 60s on Stress test. I have tried with 1.3 and 45x, booting to windows but crashed on Intel Burn Test. I have not changed any bios defaults other than these vCore and multiplier. Shoud i go for some more tweaks to get past 45x? is it worth taking risk to increase vCore? or just stay at sweet 4.4? what you think>?


----------



## Nethermir

for normal gaming/day to day use, 4.5 ghz is more than enough. if you are not doing any cpu heavy tasks, just set it at 4.5 ghz and work on your stability and temperature


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir*
> 
> *for normal gaming/day to day use, 4.5 ghz is more than enough.* if you are not doing any cpu heavy tasks, just set it at 4.5 ghz and work on your stability and temperature


Saying that a few years ago would have sound completely preposterous xD


----------



## El_Capitan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tradio*
> 
> is it possible to use INTEL QUICK SYNC encoding while having a discrete GPU installed on the P8Z68-V PRO? If so, can someone please post instructions/link on how to exactly enable that
> My understanding as is that Quick Sync is only available when using the onboard GPU but I also read that the z68 boards support Quick Sync when a GPU is installed. Is this true?


Just download and install the latest Virtu Software: http://www.lucidlogix.com/driverdownloads-virtu.html


----------



## El_Capitan

Hey everyone,
I have 4 ASUS P8Z68-V Pro non-GEN3 motherboards that overclock flawlessly (BIOS 3203). However, I just got a P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3 motherboard and it won't overclock, though the DRAM overclocks fine and the Vcore adjustments stick, just any overclocks do not. Could it just be the motherboard? BIOS = 3202.


----------



## Killermod1

Can I join the club?


----------



## exzited

hi i have a p8z68 - v/gen3

every morning when i wake up and turn on my comp it shows the windows flag for a split second then blue screen for a split second and goes back to the asus splash screen

how do i fix this?

ive run prime for 4 hours with my settings but it still seems to be unstable in the morning?

it looks like this

ASUS P8P67 series Double POST at Cold Boot Fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected];4712067
Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I'll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.

First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.


----------



## Killermod1

Thats happening with my Z68 board and I did as you said with no luck


----------



## steven88

Hello everybody, I'm hoping I can get an answer from you OCN gurus

I have a P8P67 Pro rev 3.1 and 2500k...its serving me great...currently its running at 4.8ghz and Vcore of 1.470...temps are fine, using a HAF X and Noctua NH-D14 really helps...its also prime 95 blend stable

I currently have the mobo settings to MANUAL Voltage versus Offset....I know manual voltage pretty much keeps a constant voltage no matter if idle or load...and offset lowers the volts in a low load or idle scenario....My question is, what exactly is the purpose of offset voltage? I have EIST, C1E, C3, C6 all enabled and MANUAL voltage....but when I open an instance of REALTEMP, it shows my temps going way down during a low load or idle scenario...shouldn't manual voltage keep my temps high, since its always running at a high voltage? If my temps are going down in idle, then isn't that the same as offset voltage? Except my voltage stays the same? What is the difference?

Thanks in advanced


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited*
> 
> hi i have a p8z68 - v/gen3
> 
> every morning when i wake up and turn on my comp it shows the windows flag for a split second then blue screen for a split second and goes back to the asus splash screen
> 
> how do i fix this?
> 
> ive run prime for 4 hours with my settings but it still seems to be unstable in the morning?
> 
> it looks like this
> 
> ASUS P8P67 series Double POST at Cold Boot Fix
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by [email protected];4712067
> Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I'll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.
> 
> First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
> From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.


Try the guide I posted here to help someone with similar issues


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited*
> 
> hi i have a p8z68 - v/gen3
> every morning when i wake up and turn on my comp it shows the windows flag for a split second then blue screen for a split second and goes back to the asus splash screen
> how do i fix this?
> ive run prime for 4 hours with my settings but it still seems to be unstable in the morning?
> it looks like this
> ASUS P8P67 series Double POST at Cold Boot Fix
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by [email protected];4712067
> Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I'll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.
> First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
> From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.


though not exact, it sounds similar to the jmb storage thingy. under the advanced tab -> bnboard devices configuration -> jmb storage controller -> disable the display "optionrom in post". might be worth a shot.


----------



## hanabie

Hello there,

I have currently encountered a new problem. I'm using ASUS P8Z68V LX PCIE 2.0
My old setup was running 6870CFX. I switched to sapphire 7970 OC.

1. When I installed my 7970 on the primary PCIE slot (blue color), there was no video signal and my mouse and keyboard did not light up. It looks like the power was sucked away by the pcie 8pin and 6 pin.

2. Then I tried to install my 7970 on the secondary PCIE slot (black color), the card ran fine and was tested with several games.

3. I then cleaned install amd driver and flashed new bios. Same issues on the blue slot with 8+6 pins

4. I tried to run 7970 on blue slot with 6+6 pins. This time, I had lights on my keyboard and mouse but no video signal.

5. I reinstalled one of my 6870 on the PCIE blue slot. No problem. The system booted.

6. The only thing I have not done was enable PCIE power under APM.

I don't think I have a crappy PSU. I'm using seasonic x750. I also kombustor my card for 30 minutes. no crash was shown.

HELP


----------



## exzited

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Try the guide I posted here to help someone with similar issues


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir*
> 
> though not exact, it sounds similar to the jmb storage thingy. under the advanced tab -> bnboard devices configuration -> jmb storage controller -> disable the display "optionrom in post". might be worth a shot.


alright trying both thanks!


----------



## Alexc

Picked up a P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 on a sale a few weeks ago to run it with an ivy processor. Now I'm getting worried that the bios can't support Ivy without an update. Are there any way I can see which version the board was shipped with without booting?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Hello everybody, I'm hoping I can get an answer from you OCN gurus
> 
> I have a P8P67 Pro rev 3.1 and 2500k...its serving me great...currently its running at 4.8ghz and Vcore of 1.470...temps are fine, using a HAF X and Noctua NH-D14 really helps...its also prime 95 blend stable
> 
> I currently have the mobo settings to MANUAL Voltage versus Offset....I know manual voltage pretty much keeps a constant voltage no matter if idle or load...and offset lowers the volts in a low load or idle scenario....My question is, what exactly is the purpose of offset voltage? I have EIST, C1E, C3, C6 all enabled and MANUAL voltage....but when I open an instance of REALTEMP, it shows my temps going way down during a low load or idle scenario...shouldn't manual voltage keep my temps high, since its always running at a high voltage? If my temps are going down in idle, then isn't that the same as offset voltage? Except my voltage stays the same? What is the difference?
> 
> Thanks in advanced


HI
i don't wont to be rude but 1.47v for 4.8 seems a bit to high,should be around at a guess at 1.38v-1.42v.i can get 5.1 oc at 1.41v and other's can get quite lower than that.while you are doing low load or idle your temps should be low.it's only when you do high load etc your temps will go up


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexc*
> 
> Picked up a P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 on a sale a few weeks ago to run it with an ivy processor. Now I'm getting worried that the bios can't support Ivy without an update. Are there any way I can see which version the board was shipped with without booting?


try using cpuid -CPU-Z should give you your motherboard version


----------



## Alexc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alexc*
> 
> Picked up a P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 on a sale a few weeks ago to run it with an ivy processor. Now I'm getting worried that the bios doesn't support Ivy without an update. Is there any way I can see which version the board was shipped with without booting?
> 
> 
> 
> try using cpuid -CPU-Z should give you your motherboard version
Click to expand...

I haven't got any processor so i can't boot. Is there any way to do it without?


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> HI
> i don't wont to be rude but 1.47v for 4.8 seems a bit to high,should be around at a guess at 1.38v-1.42v.i can get 5.1 oc at 1.41v and other's can get quite lower than that.while you are doing low load or idle your temps should be low.it's only when you do high load etc your temps will go up


yes I know its on the high side

but I am just wondering, is it bad to run manual voltage? The voltage never down clocks, its always constant...however, my processor core, does down clock and my temps coming soaring down


----------



## ASUSfreak

I put in manual voltage as well... since I just don't understand that offset mode stuff...

I read about it, I posted here about it, I even PM a moderator









I just still don't get it...

I'm 12h+ Prime stable on 4.6GHz @ 1.395V but that's on max temp (for me) --> 75-80°C

I can run games (so no stress test) at 5.0GHz @ 1.5V --> NEVER hit 60°C

So I know I could do better than 4.6GHz AND keep lower temps IF I understood the freaking offset mode


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexc*
> 
> Picked up a P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 on a sale a few weeks ago to run it with an ivy processor. Now I'm getting worried that the bios can't support Ivy without an update. Are there any way I can see which version the board was shipped with without booting?


Is it written in small print on the edge of the mobo, or between slots?


----------



## noblejose

I am running 44x with vCore offset mode: -0.095 (yes minus value). Idles around 30C with .90v and stress (Intel Burn Test) around 74C with vCore fluctuating around 1.26 - 1.30. Is it OK? I believe the offset negative value is a bit higher?? but I was trying to lower it to under volt when idle to reduce heat.

I found my 44x sweet spot at 1.29v manual, and then tried with offset mode. A smaller negative offset value (say -0.010) giving very high voltage spikes (around 1.38 for 44x!) so I decided to go lower and see... I don't see any BSOD in both stress and idle. Is there any problem with this very low ngative offset??


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noblejose*
> 
> I am running 44x with vCore offset mode: -0.095 (yes minus value). Idles around 30C with .90v and stress (Intel Burn Test) around 74C with vCore fluctuating around 1.26 - 1.30. Is it OK? I believe the offset negative value is a bit higher?? but I was trying to lower it to under volt when idle to reduce heat.
> 
> I found my 44x sweet spot at 1.29v manual, and then tried with offset mode. A smaller negative offset value (say -0.010) giving very high voltage spikes (around 1.38 for 44x!) so I decided to go lower and see... I don't see any BSOD in both stress and idle. Is there any problem with this very low ngative offset??


There's nothing wrong with using the lowest possible vcore my only concern would be idle time BSODs which you seem to have covered. The good news is if you ever do get an idle time BSOD bumping your - offset a couple ticks is a no brainier and you'd still be at a low vcore. I like to see 0.9125v idle vcore for my proc.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> HI
> i don't wont to be rude but 1.47v for 4.8 seems a bit to high,should be around at a guess at 1.38v-1.42v.i can get 5.1 oc at 1.41v and other's can get quite lower than that.while you are doing low load or idle your temps should be low.it's only when you do high load etc your temps will go up
> 
> 
> 
> yes I know its on the high side
> 
> but I am just wondering, is it bad to run manual voltage? The voltage never down clocks, its always constant...however, my processor core, does down clock and my temps coming soaring down
Click to expand...

well let's say that am been running on manual voltage for well over 6 months now at 1.40v for 4.9 oc and for 5.1 oc i needed to push the voltage to 1.42v but in cpu-z it shows 1.41v.and temps are much better than the offset
for memory an using xmp profile it seems to run much better than manual voltage input.but am all prime/intell burn stable 24/7 for both 4.9oc and 5.1 oc.


----------



## bodean

Not sure if this is monitor related, but when my computer goes to sleep, it has a hard time waking up from sleep (The monitor) The computer is on, but no display, and the power light just blinks (standby mode). Connected via HDMI
Have a 7970 video card, samsung Syncmaster t260hd monitor. Is there something I can check in my bios?
Have a p8z68 mb

Thanks.


----------



## Andrazh

I bumbed into a weird problem.

I installed new cooler on my graphics card and when i installed it back into my computer my screens were black and the standby light were blinking on screens. Tried only one screen. Same problem. Tried other PCI-e slot. Screen turns on and everything works normally. Try first slot. Again same problem. Figured i somehow damaged the slot. I tried my gtx 295 on first slot. It works. So slot works, card works. I don't know what could be the problem? I reset bios couple of times. Don't know what else to try? I really want it working in first slot cuz its 16x second is only 8x. I know there is not alot of diference but there is some and that counts.

I got Asus p8z68v gen3 and radeon 7950+1hdmi screen+1dvi screen.

Thank u in advance.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrazh*
> 
> I bumbed into a weird problem.
> I installed new cooler on my graphics card and when i installed it back into my computer my screens were black and the standby light were blinking on screens. Tried only one screen. Same problem. Tried other PCI-e slot. Screen turns on and everything works normally. Try first slot. Again same problem. Figured i somehow damaged the slot. I tried my gtx 295 on first slot. It works. So slot works, card works. I don't know what could be the problem? I reset bios couple of times. Don't know what else to try? I really want it working in first slot cuz its 16x second is only 8x. I know there is not alot of diference but there is some and that counts.
> I got Asus p8z68v gen3 and radeon 7950+1hdmi screen+1dvi screen.
> Thank u in advance.


Notice you have posted this in [Official] AMD Radeon HD 7950/7970 Owners Thread, Asus Z68 Series Information Thread, and The Official ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 & P8Z68/GEN3 Series Owners Club.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanabie*
> 
> Hello there,
> I have currently encountered a new problem. I'm using ASUS P8Z68V LX PCIE 2.0
> My old setup was running 6870CFX. I switched to sapphire 7970 OC.
> 1. When I installed my 7970 on the primary PCIE slot (blue color), there was no video signal and my mouse and keyboard did not light up. It looks like the power was sucked away by the pcie 8pin and 6 pin.
> 2. Then I tried to install my 7970 on the secondary PCIE slot (black color), the card ran fine and was tested with several games.
> 3. I then cleaned install amd driver and flashed new bios. Same issues on the blue slot with 8+6 pins
> 4. I tried to run 7970 on blue slot with 6+6 pins. This time, I had lights on my keyboard and mouse but no video signal.
> 5. I reinstalled one of my 6870 on the PCIE blue slot. No problem. The system booted.
> 6. The only thing I have not done was enable PCIE power under APM.
> I don't think I have a crappy PSU. I'm using seasonic x750. I also kombustor my card for 30 minutes. no crash was shown.
> HELP


few questions. have you updated the bios and drivers? have you configured mobo to boot to pcie? also, always use 8+6 pins.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Not sure if this is monitor related, but when my computer goes to sleep, it has a hard time waking up from sleep (The monitor) The computer is on, but no display, and the power light just blinks (standby mode). Connected via HDMI
> Have a 7970 video card, samsung Syncmaster t260hd monitor. Is there something I can check in my bios?
> Have a p8z68 mb
> Thanks.


this was an issue before with these asus boards. some said disabling internal pll overvoltage fixes it but i gave up trying to figure out how to put my computer to sleep lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrazh*
> 
> I bumbed into a weird problem.
> I installed new cooler on my graphics card and when i installed it back into my computer my screens were black and the standby light were blinking on screens. Tried only one screen. Same problem. Tried other PCI-e slot. Screen turns on and everything works normally. Try first slot. Again same problem. Figured i somehow damaged the slot. I tried my gtx 295 on first slot. It works. So slot works, card works. I don't know what could be the problem? I reset bios couple of times. Don't know what else to try? I really want it working in first slot cuz its 16x second is only 8x. I know there is not alot of diference but there is some and that counts.
> I got Asus p8z68v gen3 and radeon 7950+1hdmi screen+1dvi screen.
> Thank u in advance.


was your 7950 working before you installed a new cooler? bios/drivers updated?


----------



## bodean

I disabled the PLL overvoltage, to no avail.


----------



## Andrazh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir*
> 
> was your 7950 working before you installed a new cooler? bios/drivers updated?


Yes and it still works normally if i put it in second slot.


----------



## pushaz99

hello all,
been in few forums,but didnt get proper answer,and friend recommended this forum

Ok,heres the problem..
I have:
Asus P67 Pro (B3)
2600K
16Gb Corsair XMS3 (4x4gb)
Asus GTX570
SSD
2Tb WD Black

Now,to the problem...
I cleaned my pc from dust,as doing every few months,but today after i put all parts again pc didnt started,instead he gave me constant MemOK led
I did usual things - started with 1 ram stick..And after some time i find,that only last 2 ram slots working,if i put any memory stick in 1 or 2 slot - MemOK light is on.I can use last 2 mem slots without problem,but all 4 slots not working,no any of first 2 mem slots..Before i didnt have any problems..
Bios 2303
If need more info just say
Any help will be much appreciated


----------



## bodean

Whats the main difference between Normal mode, and ASUS Optimal mode? Right now I am normal, and hitting 4.2 OC with no issues.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> I disabled the PLL overvoltage, to no avail.


i guess the sleep issue still persists then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz99*
> 
> hello all,
> been in few forums,but didnt get proper answer,and friend recommended this forum
> Ok,heres the problem..
> I have:
> Asus P67 Pro (B3)
> 2600K
> 16Gb Corsair XMS3 (4x4gb)
> Asus GTX570
> SSD
> 2Tb WD Black
> Now,to the problem...
> I cleaned my pc from dust,as doing every few months,but today after i put all parts again pc didnt started,instead he gave me constant MemOK led
> I did usual things - started with 1 ram stick..And after some time i find,that only last 2 ram slots working,if i put any memory stick in 1 or 2 slot - MemOK light is on.I can use last 2 mem slots without problem,but all 4 slots not working,no any of first 2 mem slots..Before i didnt have any problems..
> Bios 2303
> If need more info just say
> Any help will be much appreciated


sounds like it is a slot issue. if those 2 slots are busted, i dont think there's much you can do. have you tried cleaning it thoroughly and blowing compressed air? also make sure you always hear the click when pushing down the sticks just to make sure they are seated properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrazh*
> 
> Yes and it still works normally if i put it in second slot.


i noticed there are quite a number of people having this problem but i havent seen any definitive fix because almost all of them rma'd their boards. maybe someone else here may have an answer. or you can also go to the asus forum and see if they have any solution http://vip.asus.com/forum/


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrazh*
> 
> I bumbed into a weird problem.
> I installed new cooler on my graphics card and when i installed it back into my computer my screens were black and the standby light were blinking on screens. Tried only one screen. Same problem. Tried other PCI-e slot. Screen turns on and everything works normally. Try first slot. Again same problem. Figured i somehow damaged the slot. I tried my gtx 295 on first slot. It works. So slot works, card works. I don't know what could be the problem? I reset bios couple of times. Don't know what else to try? I really want it working in first slot cuz its 16x second is only 8x. I know there is not alot of diference but there is some and that counts.
> I got Asus p8z68v gen3 and radeon 7950+1hdmi screen+1dvi screen.
> Thank u in advance.


Please don't cross post if you don't want to get in trouble here. You posted this multiple times. Just wait for an answer on one thread or make your own thread.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanabie*
> 
> Hello there,
> I have currently encountered a new problem. I'm using ASUS P8Z68V LX PCIE 2.0
> My old setup was running 6870CFX. I switched to sapphire 7970 OC.
> 1. When I installed my 7970 on the primary PCIE slot (blue color), there was no video signal and my mouse and keyboard did not light up. It looks like the power was sucked away by the pcie 8pin and 6 pin.
> 2. Then I tried to install my 7970 on the secondary PCIE slot (black color), the card ran fine and was tested with several games.
> 3. I then cleaned install amd driver and flashed new bios. Same issues on the blue slot with 8+6 pins
> 4. I tried to run 7970 on blue slot with 6+6 pins. This time, I had lights on my keyboard and mouse but no video signal.
> 5. I reinstalled one of my 6870 on the PCIE blue slot. No problem. The system booted.
> 6. The only thing I have not done was enable PCIE power under APM.
> I don't think I have a crappy PSU. I'm using seasonic x750. I also kombustor my card for 30 minutes. no crash was shown.
> HELP


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrazh*
> 
> I bumbed into a weird problem.
> I installed new cooler on my graphics card and when i installed it back into my computer my screens were black and the standby light were blinking on screens. Tried only one screen. Same problem. Tried other PCI-e slot. Screen turns on and everything works normally. Try first slot. Again same problem. Figured i somehow damaged the slot. I tried my gtx 295 on first slot. It works. So slot works, card works. I don't know what could be the problem? I reset bios couple of times. Don't know what else to try? I really want it working in first slot cuz its 16x second is only 8x. I know there is not alot of diference but there is some and that counts.
> I got Asus p8z68v gen3 and radeon 7950+1hdmi screen+1dvi screen.
> Thank u in advance.


I posted similar issues many pages back (post 6567), this board has issues with certain cards. I opened a technical inquiry with ASUS 2 months ago, they are providing no solution.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/6560#post_16564560


----------



## Andrazh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Please don't cross post if you don't want to get in trouble here. You posted this multiple times. Just wait for an answer on one thread or make your own thread.


I'm sorry but I really panicked.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> I posted similar issues many pages back (post 6567), this board has issues with certain cards. I opened a technical inquiry with ASUS 2 months ago, they are providing no solution.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/6560#post_16564560


It's weird because my card worked normally for a month then i took it out and in again and now its not working any more in the first slot=\

EDIT: I just updated motherboard BIOS and reinstall windows 7. The card works in second PCIe slot but still not in first. I'm so confused=\ What should i do?


----------



## error-id10t

Has the card got dual bios? Maybe flick the switch and see if it comes up and if yes then flick back to the old one and see if it's ok in the slot now...


----------



## Andrazh

Tried that also. When this card is in first slot it boots from onboard graphics. I have it now in my second slot that seems to be working perfectly.

I have another question. The slots run at 8x/8x when in cfx. First one runs at 16x when using single card. What about second slot when running a single card. Does it run at 16x or 8x?


----------



## tyranny12

Evening all,

Been reading through a massive number of threads now that I finally have a weekend to start OCing my new rig.
- P6Z68-V GEN3m 3291 BIOS
- 2500k
- 4 x G.Skill D3-12800CL9-2GBXL
- Air cooled, Noctua NH-U12P push-fan

Last (only) time I OC'd was my old E8400, so very rusty. Spent the last night and much of today running the system through steadily increasing voltages and Prime95 1344/1792 tests, to identify at what level I should start to find for running a full on blend test. I'm thinking I don't have all that high-clocking of a 2500k - although still fast - and want to make sure it's not just my lack of experience doing this.

Righto, started with manual voltages for the most of this. The below can be assumed to be constant for this discussion. Also assume that anything I say worked went through at least 20 min of 1344 and 20 min of 1792 at 96% memory usage. In some cases I've tested at 2688 as well.
Quote:


> C3 C6 Auto, EIST Enabled
> CPU Current Capability 140%
> Phase / Duty controls Extreme
> EPU Power Saving Disabled
> VRAM Frequency - Manual 350


PLL Overvoltage was enabled, but I confirmed it caused an issue recovering from sleep (thank you for ruining last night's blend test, power saving!) and disabled it. Now I get USB ports back when I return from sleep state!

After some lengthy testing, managed to get a 45x mult at 1.335 VCore (VID 1.3611). LLC was at Ultra-High, PLL 1.7, DRAM 1.5, VCCIO Auto. My actual values were around 1.328 at load.

While getting there, I had just finished reading Shadowfax's post on LLC. Matching up VCore's and VIDs, I established that by switching LLC to high, I needed an extra 0.15 VCore to maintain (since I don't have turbo-boost voltage adjustment in this BIOS version.) Tried playing with that, seemed to work. Mind you, I'm now at 1.35 VCore in BIOS, with 1.344 on idle and 1.328/1.320 on full load.

Wanted to see if I could get anything higher. This is where the fun began.

I *eventually* got a stable x46 multiplier on a BIOS set VCore of 1.39, with VCCIO at 1.09375 and PLL of 1.675. I couldn't get a stable build without the VCCIO and PLL changes, even at 1.39. That's right... I had to raise my VCore 0.04 for one multiplier increase. x47multis were still BSOD magnets. This is when I ran the (interrupted) overnight blend test. I was not happy at the massive VCore jump for one multiplier rise.

In the morning I encountered the USB issue and therefore ended up disabled PLL Overvoltage. This in turn destabilised the above stable x46 multiplier, which couldn't pass a 1792 20min test anymore. I determined through my notes that really, i was suffering from substantial Vdroop. Load voltage was still at 1.368, idle VCore at 1.384.

I went back to Ultra-High LCC, and could pass a 46x test with flying colours. Ultra-high did it's LCC job - idle and load were at 1.392 with mild fluctuations.

I attempted to use that for a 47x multiplier - no luck. Dropped the PLL to 1.6625 here as part of the testing.

Reading that using an offset (which I wanted to get to) would sometimes stabilise an edge case, I calculated my offset (+0.03 for 46x) and switched over.

That is stable at 46x. It is not stable at 47x, still, and 47x pushes loaded VCore up to 1.4/1.408 with it's slightly higher VID (1.3711 for me, whereas 46x is 1.3661). Also, is there a reason the CPU doesn't appear to be stepping down to x16 on idle now that I'm in offset mode?

Anyhow, what are your thoughts? Do I just have a proc that doesn't want to go above 46x? 1.39 VCore seems really high for 46x for me. Keep in mind I tested what appeared to be a stable 45x at 1.335 VCore! If I do my math right, according to my notes that means that at 45x I could run an offset of -0.03!

Current settings:
Quote:


> Offset mode, +0.03 VCore
> PLL at 1.6625
> VCCIO at 1.09375
> DRAM at 1.5
> Mult at 46x, giving a VID of 1.3661
> Observed VCore at 1.392 under load.
> Max temp of 70C on one core.


EDIT: And if it does appear 46x may be my best spot at present, any ideas on reducing VCore? Or is 1.3661 VID for 46x the writing on the wall as far as that goes?
EDIT2: Brain kicked in, answered a question for me. Struck it out, above.


----------



## porksmuggler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrazh*
> 
> It's weird because my card worked normally for a month then i took it out and in again and now its not working any more in the first slot=\


Not that weird, the board fails to recognize the card and goes into a boot loop with my 4850X2, but a couple times out of dozens of reboots it actually made it to the bios. I've tested the 4850X2 in multiple other rigs, works perfectly. I've also tested 4 other cards on this Z68, and they all work perfectly in either slot. It's a compatibility issue, and ASUS doesn't seem interested in looking into it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrazh*
> 
> Tried that also. When this card is in first slot it boots from onboard graphics. I have it now in my second slot that seems to be working perfectly.
> I have another question. The slots run at 8x/8x when in cfx. First one runs at 16x when using single card. What about second slot when running a single card. Does it run at 16x or 8x?


The 2nd slot will always run at 8x. PCIe 2.0 8x or PCIe 3.0 8x (if you have a Gen3, Ivy Bridge and a PCIe 3.0 vid card). It doesn't matter if the 1st slot is populated or not.


----------



## Andrazh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Not that weird, the board fails to recognize the card and goes into a boot loop with my 4850X2, but a couple times out of dozens of reboots it actually made it to the bios. I've tested the 4850X2 in multiple other rigs, works perfectly. I've also tested 4 other cards on this Z68, and they all work perfectly in either slot. It's a compatibility issue, and ASUS doesn't seem interested in looking into it.
> The 2nd slot will always run at 8x. PCIe 2.0 8x or PCIe 3.0 8x (if you have a Gen3, Ivy Bridge and a PCIe 3.0 vid card). It doesn't matter if the 1st slot is populated or not.


Thank you for ur answer. How did u fix ur problem?


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Hey guys, on my p8z68-v pro gen3 i recently upgraded from 0402 to 3202 bios and now my flashed 6950s no longer show video of any kind! If I flip the bios switch on my 6950s back to 6950 (I have reference cards) presto I get video out, but when using the 6970 bios I get no video out. Here is where it gets weirder: Windows boots right into my logon, but with NO video out. Since I can't downgrade my UEFI asus bios to previous version (learned that the hard way) anyone got any ideas?

Just to be clear: with 3202 I get no video out from my flashed 6970s which worked flawlessly prior to upgrading to 3202. I get no video anywhere - not even during bootstrap or bios, etc. . I could always spend $24 to get the old bios from asus, but hoping there is another way.


----------



## Petey

Well a shot in the dark, but go into the 2nd tab of bios then select pci and turn all lucid anything off except for 64mb memory, which is default. Dont run lucid with a 6970. It maybe trying to run gpu through your hdmi port on mobo. I've had it run like that its hard to tell unless you plug up to hdmi. I agree it allows you save your bios but wont let you revert to it, insane. But I'm still trying to figure out intel 4 G memory thing no notes any got the word?


----------



## Petey

Got a question, about shutting timing off. I was able to run my system with out a problem at 4.9 ghz. Not to brag but it tripped me out. I was just wondering what are the effects of running with timing off. I'm freaked I'm going to blow my cpu, so played a little while then turned it back on. My temps were like 28 c at AI Suite and 3202 bios temps seem screwy but like 32 c dont really know the accuracy of either. After new bios temps went crazy. No biggie just seems like AI suite is the accurate one, if there's word which to look at. After screwing with bios and looked at AI suite with cpu stable (no turbo Mode) running under 4.9 only on water, I was like freaked. I went through was able to run applications and do work with out a crash, after voltage was set right. Theres got to be some thing I'm not being told, so ran and had some fun then switched timing back on, thinking theres some fatal death waiting for me. Well the question is what are the side effects of doing this, and keeping system cool. I don't think temps went past 32 c and applications were flying, like click and a solid blink of the eye there up and running.
*Please don't turn off timing if your system isn't cold blooded, I don't know the effects just warning!*


----------



## bodean

any other suggestions to the Windows 7 / ATI 7970 / Sleep issue?


----------



## Petey

oh cool


----------



## Andrazh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porksmuggler*
> 
> Not that weird, the board fails to recognize the card and goes into a boot loop with my 4850X2, but a couple times out of dozens of reboots it actually made it to the bios. I've tested the 4850X2 in multiple other rigs, works perfectly. I've also tested 4 other cards on this Z68, and they all work perfectly in either slot. It's a compatibility issue, and ASUS doesn't seem interested in looking into it.
> The 2nd slot will always run at 8x. PCIe 2.0 8x or PCIe 3.0 8x (if you have a Gen3, Ivy Bridge and a PCIe 3.0 vid card). It doesn't matter if the 1st slot is populated or not.


This is my response from Asus:
Quote:


> Dear Valued Customer,
> 
> Both PCIe slots work at x16 speed if the other one is not occupied, if the other slot is occupied they work at x8 speed.
> 
> Please see if there is a new firmware for the graphics card avilable and try to upgrade your graphics card.
> 
> Issues which you reported were observed when one or more pins in the 1155 socket were damaged, please inspect the socket and make sure the CPU makes full contact with the pin array.
> 
> Attention! Please do not erease previous correspondence. Seeing full letter history helps to better diagnose the issue.


They said it works at 16x if the first slot is not occupied but in gpuz i can see it working @8x.

And that the problem is in CPU socket? Oo I haven't touched that in months.

EDIT: I have fixed my problem.

Sollution:
I reinstall CPU and it worked.


----------



## tyranny12

Right - in furtherance of the above, I went for a 12 hour burn-in of my P8Z68-V/GEN3 at the above (not optimal in my opinion) settings. This was just to establish a functioning baseline before I attempted to lower the voltage I need for a 46x multiplier.

At 11.5 hours, it restarted. I don't know why - there was no blue screen dump, serious error report, or anything to indicate Windows thought something was amiss. All worker processes were working fine. It was an unexpected restart, according to the event log, but other than that, no issues at all.

Any ideas what I can check to figure out what the error was and therefore respond?

P6Z68-V GEN3m 3291 BIOS
2500k
4 x G.Skill D3-12800CL9-2GBXL
Air cooled, Noctua NH-U12P push-fan

Offset mode, +0.03 VCore
PLL voltage at 1.6625
VCCIO v0ltage at 1.09375
DRAM at 1.5
Mult at 46x, giving a VID of 1.3661
C3 C6 Auto, EIST Enabled
CPU Current Capability 140%
Phase / Duty controls Extreme
EPU Power Saving Disabled
VRAM Frequency - Manual 350
PLL Overvoltage Disabled
Observed VCore at 1.392 under load.
Max temp of 73C on one core, averaged around 68C during the test.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tyranny12*
> 
> Right - in furtherance of the above, I went for a 12 hour burn-in of my P8Z68-V/GEN3 at the above (not optimal in my opinion) settings. This was just to establish a functioning baseline before I attempted to lower the voltage I need for a 46x multiplier.
> At 11.5 hours, it restarted. I don't know why - there was no blue screen dump, serious error report, or anything to indicate Windows thought something was amiss. All worker processes were working fine. It was an unexpected restart, according to the event log, but other than that, no issues at all.
> Any ideas what I can check to figure out what the error was and therefore respond?.


Maybe it was nothing to do with your overclock settings. Could have been a behind the scene update that required a system reboot.


----------



## tyranny12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Maybe it was nothing to do with your overclock settings. Could have been a behind the scene update that required a system reboot.


Considered that, but checked in the Event Log and the only update applied was to my AV program (the MS free one) about 3 hours before. WIndows Updates necessitating reboots all show log entries there. I have real-time scanning disabled during the testing, but allowed the program itself to remain in memory to prevent any instability caused by low-level drivers being missing. Also interesting that I apparently didn't disable system scans, and it ran a manual scan during the overclock test without causing any hiccups.

That being said, you could still be entirely correct. I both don't know if MS Essentials causes reboots like that (as this is my first time using it) and have only eliminated the most common source of reboots via looking in the log. Any third-party reboot would not show there, although it would show a 'system shutdown' message that was not present, indicating unexpected reboot.

The absence of a serious error message or a bug check event tells me it wasn't a blue screen, but it still was unexpected. It could even have been a power fluctuation, although those don't normally cause reboots, just pure power offs.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Hey guys, on my p8z68-v pro gen3 i recently upgraded from 0402 to 3202 bios and now my flashed 6950s no longer show video of any kind! If I flip the bios switch on my 6950s back to 6950 (I have reference cards) presto I get video out, but when using the 6970 bios I get no video out. Here is where it gets weirder: Windows boots right into my logon, but with NO video out. Since I can't downgrade my UEFI asus bios to previous version (learned that the hard way) anyone got any ideas?
> Just to be clear: with 3202 I get no video out from my flashed 6970s which worked flawlessly prior to upgrading to 3202. I get no video anywhere - not even during bootstrap or bios, etc. . I could always spend $24 to get the old bios from asus, but hoping there is another way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Petey*
> 
> Well a shot in the dark, but go into the 2nd tab of bios then select pci and turn all lucid anything off except for 64mb memory, which is default. Dont run lucid with a 6970. It maybe trying to run gpu through your hdmi port on mobo. I've had it run like that its hard to tell unless you plug up to hdmi. I agree it allows you save your bios but wont let you revert to it, insane. But I'm still trying to figure out intel 4 G memory thing no notes any got the word?


I believe I already tried that, but later tonight i'll give it another try. In any event, I appreciate your attempt. No one else has offered any solution across 3 forums including asus.


----------



## Petey

Better clarify, when I say Hdmi, I mean on the back of the mobo, NOT HDMI ON GPU or mini thing they like to use. I guess what happened is lucid is taking control of video and is routing to mobo hdmi. But when you get to windows run lucid software and config to run gpu as the primary, or something like that. Forgot all the details, I just remember it happened to me where gpu had no video, but if I switched monitor to hdmi which ran into the mobo, everything was running fine. It was freaky, I got scared, my **** is broken!!!! punch punch bloody knuckles embedded and accenting my designer pc.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Petey*
> 
> Better clarify, when I say Hdmi, I mean on the back of the mobo, NOT HDMI ON GPU or mini thing they like to use. I guess what happened is lucid is taking control of video and is routing to mobo hdmi. But when you get to windows run lucid software and config to run gpu as the primary, or something like that. Forgot all the details, I just remember it happened to me where gpu had no video, but if I switched monitor to hdmi which ran into the mobo, everything was running fine. It was freaky, I got scared, my **** is broken!!!! punch punch bloody knuckles embedded and accenting my designer pc.


I tried it but no luck. Unfortunately none of my monitors have hdmi so I can't really test the hdmi port back there. Its weird because this isn't a windows problem at all. I get no video from my flashed 6950 in 6970 mode, not even bootstrap text, yet the system boots like video is working no problerm. I suppose I could try booting into an ubuntu cd or something but I really doubt that would matter in the slightest.

I'm somewhat sure these issues are tied to the pcie 2.0 to pcie 3.0 conversion that comes with ivy bridge, which first got support in this bios. Coders at Asus overlooked something, namely the 6970s, somehow. I have hope that the next bios iteration will fix this before I go spending $24 to buy the old bios chip from asus.


----------



## Petey

check red light under gpu, that really tells if something is wrong. Could re-flash bios, wait never mind cant do that with 3203 bios update. Yea might have to use some dos boot, I went looking for that, or trying to boot from a flash drive, no luck. May Be Asus has a boot driver Where flash-drive would work. That would be cool, boot flash drive, and boom run bios. Yea I feel freaked I cant load bios to a previous saved version.


----------



## Petey

I initially though bios was screwed up cause I couldn't revert to a saved version. Then went here and saw its normal, or the bios its self, a little relief any ways. Well even if windows worked it wouldn't let you revert, They blocked it at the AI suite too. I feel like such a failure, a misfit a very naughty boy, cant do anything right, like revert a bios to a previous state. Dude it sucks when your very very bad.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Well at least there is a $24 way back. Some people on the Asus forums have confirmed that this issue is also on the p8p67 board bioses as well. Its some bug in the transition to ivy and pci-express 3.0. One of them even suggested that its a vendor flag. Since my MSI brand 6950 reference card is flashed with a sapphire 6970 bios that could possibly be it. Who knows. They found a solution which was to copy the stock 6950 bios and then just unlock the shaders. Not the ideal solution as with out the voltmod that comes with the 6970 bios the card wont overclock as high, but its SOMETHING. Will have to try it on my 6950s tomorrow.


----------



## psyside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Should I go from 1850 to 2302? Noticed some people said they had stability issues but I wonder if that simply means the voltage settings respond differently so you need to tweak your overclock settings.


Yes, post faster, and generally really stable, dunno about voltages etc tbh, didn't test my oc till now with it.


----------



## Petey

Yea intitally I got freaked, it appears that 3203 is in both P8Z68-V PRO and the P8Z68-V PRO 3.0 thinking they downloaded bios update to the wrong web page. It seemed weird that there was a number change 606 906 etc.
Thought merging bios was a increase of efficiency, and giving the consumer high grade product right away, I thought what the hell download.

Yea you probably need a driver for the 3.0 pci-e thing to work, I guess they did something different with the pins, could check into it with 6970 flashed to see if the problem may be with gpu and gpu bios. Might try doing a different manufactures or up dated flash to the gpu. Tech power up has some good gpu bios editing tools. Could check there, flash bios with almost stock bios.

In the wise words of the village elder, ancient philosophy of Confucius father Shu-Yug HO, Failure in the eyes of the enemy is success in combat, and When they attack blow them a kiss from your anus.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Is there a way to control fan RPM for PWm fans directly in the BIOS? Not the minimum speed but the overall speed.


----------



## Petey

Wow some thing new every day, set bios to defaults, then run EZ flash utilitys. I guess prevent system unstability, ez flash wont work untill at defaults. Then bupdater wont work with efui flash stick, cant change drive except for fat 32, anybody know manufacturer of a good flash stick, bupdater could come in handy. Jump mobo to mobo things get complicated.


----------



## psikofunkster

Hi,

I have a 1TB HDD and today i added a Corsair 60GB SSD in order to use intel rapid response technology.

Well i change my bios SATA config from AHCI to RAID then windows 7 didn't boot so i reinstalled it, and now i think everything is working fine still have some serious doubts hope some of you guys can help please.

01) After setting BIOS to RAID and starting installing windows 7 do i need to install any floppy raid drivers?

02) when i cold boot an intel response technology post message appears each time, is very annoying can it be deactivated?



Please note the above screen is NOT mine


----------



## Petey

I dont Know if you can raid a 60 gb ssd. I suppose 30 gb + 30 gb with some kind of software, but then its better to run it with sata 6 and I believe trim takes care of that so its allready in raid 0. You just need to put it on a sata 6 port with latest firm ware, then install your os to your ssd and use 1tb for dropping your files. You have to go to you tube to set up intel rapid response tech, the video's help.


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Is there a way to control fan RPM for PWm fans directly in the BIOS? Not the minimum speed but the overall speed.


If cpu fan q control is enabled

you could have fan profile at manual

cpu fan speed low limit ...400rpm

maybe cpu upper temp, when fan ramps up to full with pwm cpu fan lower the degrees sooner it comes up to full speed, i run it at 60 here ymmv

cpu fan maximum duty cycle ...........at 100 per cent

cpu lower temperature ....can input number here say 20 per cent

cpu minimum fan duty at 20 per cent.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Petey*
> 
> Yea intitally I got freaked, it appears that 3203 is in both P8Z68-V PRO and the P8Z68-V PRO 3.0 thinking they downloaded bios update to the wrong web page. It seemed weird that there was a number change 606 906 etc.
> Thought merging bios was a increase of efficiency, and giving the consumer high grade product right away, I thought what the hell download.
> Yea you probably need a driver for the 3.0 pci-e thing to work, I guess they did something different with the pins, could check into it with 6970 flashed to see if the problem may be with gpu and gpu bios. Might try doing a different manufactures or up dated flash to the gpu. Tech power up has some good gpu bios editing tools. Could check there, flash bios with almost stock bios.
> In the wise words of the village elder, ancient philosophy of Confucius father Shu-Yug HO, Failure in the eyes of the enemy is success in combat, and When they attack blow them a kiss from your anus.


I had success with simply using my 6950 bios with unlocked shaders. As I anticipated, my 6950 with unlocked shaders and only 1.1v is stuck at about 900mhz/1350mhz instead of the 930/145 I could get at 1.175 with the 6970 bios. Oh well. My power bill should be less because of this, at least until Asus fixes this issue, if ever. Luckily I have an htpc handy to just card the cards over to and do the flashing. Here's to hoping Asus releases something soon!


----------



## RedStapler

Have asked for some help stabilizing my OC over on the Sandy Stable club thread. Would really appreciate any good advice on what to do next, or whatever.


----------



## ChrisB1481

My P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 seems to have a strange boot problem. It used to boot normally with no problems, but other times it would boot and upon entering the bios it would freeze. Now I cant even boot into the bios or even display anything on screen. It will cycle through its normal boot sequence of CPU, Ram, VGA, then boot device, but now most of the time the VGA led will stay lit and display nothing, other times the boot device led will stay lit and display nothing, and other times the board will get through all the stages of booting but will once again display nothing. I tested my graphics card on another pc and it works fine. My monitor is receiving an input but it is just a blank black screen(My monitor shows a message "searching for signal" if nothing is running, but when I turn on my PC the message goes away but its just a blank screen). Im positive its a mobo problem, and these boards are apparently plagued with errors, so I guess Im going to have to RMA it to ASUS. But I thought Id just post here to see if anyone has any insight on this weird problem. Also before anyone says to clear the Cmos I have multiple times, and it hasnt changed anything.

Cpu: i5-2550k
Gpu: Evga gtx 480
Mobo: P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3
Ram: Gskill ripjaws x 1600 8gb
PSU: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 850w


----------



## ViTosS

Did you guys see the new BIOS available? 3207, I'm currently using 2303, should I upgrade? I have P8P67 Pro


----------



## GuitsBoy

Stay away from 3207. Its a major change and it is only half baked. Not ready for release. Too many bugs, and my system wouldnt boot off my SSD any more while it was set to RAID mode. I tried rolling back to 2302 with the AMI flash utility, then with AI updater, but no good. I got three reboots out of the motherboard then it went black, never to boot again. Had to replace it over the weekend, and my life has been hell. While i was fighting with the p8p67, i cleared the cmos and booted into windows once with the HD controllers in AHCI mode, and it wiped two of my raid 5 disks, destroying my array. Gonna take a week just to see if the recovery software finds anything.


----------



## EightBallCrnPkt

Quick question. It appears that this board 

ASUS P8Z77-V DELUXE doesn't have FireWire onboard.. Would using this case be a problem being as it has FireWire on the front?


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EightBallCrnPkt*
> 
> Quick question. It appears that this board
> ASUS P8Z77-V DELUXE doesn't have FireWire onboard.. Would using this case be a problem being as it has FireWire on the front?


You can't connect a wire from the case to a non existent plug so it would be a useless port on your case that many of us have. You don't have to hook up anything from your case other than the power/reset buttons if you want. If you need firewire then you can always get a card for it, if not then forget about it and you are good to go.


----------



## EightBallCrnPkt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> You can't connect a wire from the case to a non existent plug so it would be a useless port on your case that many of us have. You don't have to hook up anything from your case other than the power/reset buttons if you want. If you need firewire then you can always get a card for it, if not then forget about it and you are good to go.


Right, No I don't need to use the FireWire.. never have and honestly with USB 3 I don't think I ever will.. Thanks for the reply!


----------



## MooMoo

Hey guys 'n' gals, whats your highest temp on these motherboards?

Im getting max 37C when gaming/stress testing, it was max 33C before, but I changed TIM to MX-4 and I lost my GPU cooler (because one screw broken in when I was reseating it and I havent got my new socket mount from china), but I bet that rise is because of GPU cooler change to crappy stock one, so now that mobo chip doesnt get cooled nicely


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

New bios updates for z68 series

P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 BIOS 3304
For proper operation, please ensure to update Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver to version 10.8.0.1003 and BIOS to version 3304 before enabling Intel Smart Response Technology.

Update procedure for users needing Intel Smart Response Technology:
(1) Enter OS, and ensure Intel Smart Response Technology has been turned off under Intel Rapid Storage Technology interface.
(2) Install version Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver to version 10.8.0.1003.
(3) Reboot the system, and update BIOS to version 3304, then reboot.
(4) Enter the BIOS setup screen, press F5 to load BIOS default, then change the Intel SATA Port to RAID mode.
(5) Boot into OS, and re-enable Intel Smart Response Technology under Intel Rapid Storage Technology.

anyone tested?

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68_DELUXEGEN3/#download


----------



## MooMoo

Whow, theres update for P67 too, but Im afraid of troubles, which I saw that people had with Z68 BIOSes







So thats why Im thinking that they possible messed this too









Im also confused about this message on the download page: "_*Please update Bios twice when update from previous Bios version, then need *CLRTC.*_" What CLRTC means?


----------



## exzited

your suggestions fixed the bsod on post issue for 2 weeks, now its returned and i havnt touched a settings since then.

what should i do?


----------



## Rosencrantz

Updated to the new BIOS 3304 today and now I can get my previous OC with a little less voltage


----------



## Tyreman

Testing bios3304 currently


----------



## Type-R

Hellos!!.

I'm thinking about buying an Asus P8Z68-V GEN3 for my i5 2500K.

My question is, is a good motherboard? is recommended? or if it have any problems.

I was watching a video about the motherboard and had some problem.

This is the video:





I would like to know if it's a good or bad idea to buy it.

Thanks


----------



## Karlz3r

I'm not sure about the "PRO" version, but my non-PRO owned my 2500K to 5.0GHz, so I'm definitely happy with it.
And my 2500K isn't the best chip around.

If anything, the PRO version should be even better.


----------



## Type-R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Type-R*
> 
> Hellos!!.
> I'm thinking about buying an Asus P8Z68-V GEN3 for my i5 2500K.
> My question is, is a good motherboard? is recommended? or if it have any problems.
> I was watching a video about the motherboard and had some problem.
> This is the video:
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to know if it's a good or bad idea to buy it.
> Thanks


My mistake, It's non-PRO Motherboard

wrong video









Anyway, I want to know if it's a good MOB.


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Guys I've a problem with MY GPU OC settings. I'm not sure it's about OC. When I play Crysis 2 and BF3 GPU crashes. So I decided to make some torture tests. I did run 3D Mark 2011 in extreme mode 4 times. No rpb. Then I go more torture. I did run Prime95 and after 5 min (while prime was working) I did run 3D Mark 2011 in extreme mode and worked 4 times. Than I didn't close prime95 and did run Unigine Heaven 3 in extreme mode, no crashes. So worked almost 1 hour and no crahes. Both GPU and CPU worked full load. Also my rams OC 1940Mhz - 9.10.10.28 - 2T

With softwares (Sony Vegas, After Effects, Cubase, Nuendo and some 3D apps.) no problem. Can I say my PSU is ok? I'm using Thermaltake Toughpower XT 775W

My GPU - MSI Twin Frozr II HD 6950 (shaders unlocked)

I'm using at 950Mhz - Mem 1375Mhz - Voltage 1.250

I was using like this with my old system. (Phenom II x4 965 (4000Mhz) ) There was no problem.

I also installed MW3 and Black Ops, tested no problem. With hot pursuit no problem. I did install 12.4 driver.

BF3 and Crysis 2 still crashes.

What is your suggestion.

And after these tests, I'm happy with my motherboard









Edit : I did run prime95 and Furmark Bun test for 30 min again. There was no problem.


----------



## Karlz3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Type-R*
> 
> My mistake, It's non-PRO Motherboard
> wrong video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I want to know if it's a good MOB.


It's definitely the best one I've used so far. I absolutely love it! The UEFI BIOS is amazing as well!


----------



## truehighroller1

i've been running on the same P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 that I purchased at Micro Center running the same overclock, the same Raid 0 SSD config I have been from the get go. I'm on the 3304 BIOS now and it's stable. They upgraded the intel rapid storage raid bios finally, super stoked about that with my setup I'm running.


----------



## chika7ilo

Hello.
I have a question. I have p8z68 deluxe mbo, when i want to install AI Suite II i don't see the option for AI Charger+ 1.00.06.
My main problem is that i want to charge my Razer Mamba mouse and my iPhone over night.
I have managed to do it but then all things that i have connected to the usb and that have led light work.
My previous mbo from gigabyte charged the mouse and the phone without these problems. Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks.


----------



## Petey

can always activate charger 3.0 in bios, then if you feel up to it you'll see the tool icon in AI suite then its the bottom of list.
I have a question of my own, I don't know if its better asked here or over at the intel site. Physics and on chip GPU, in the new AI Suite there is overclocking features for IGPU will that increase physics as you overclock the on chip gpu. I was under the impression that IGPU max frequency has to do with on chip gpu memory speed. There for, match speed of memory with your graphix card and IGPU for physics. Am I, ok for thinking this way, considering your IGPU, INTERGRATED GPU will allways remain at 850 for gpu frequency in ai suite. Even while benchmark program is running 850 MHz will not change. Basically I don't know if I'm just lagging my graphics card down by even activating virtu and attempt O.C. ing my
I-GPU, Then does I-GPU even help with on the chips physics, or is just running solid GPU a better way to go.

I know blah blah so many words squished together, but I haven't found much information on this. Try and ask I guess


----------



## chika7ilo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Petey*
> 
> can always activate charger 3.0 in bios, then if you feel up to it you'll see the tool icon in AI suite then its the bottom of list.


I did not find any thing in bios for charging, only disable and enable Renesas USB 3.0 controller.


----------



## WX4SNO

Might as well add me to the club...not an overclocker...at least not yet!









ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Gen3


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WX4SNO*
> 
> Might as well add me to the club...not an overclocker...at least not yet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Gen3


You may not think so but if you even have stock settings from the bios the turbo is automatically turned on, so welcome to being an overclocker!


----------



## tarka

Hi everyone!! New to the gang with a P8Z68-V-GEN3, 8gb Kingston Hyper X Blu, Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro and a 2500k, woot!

I have a couple of problems though.

1 - CPU fan error which i seemed to have fixed by reducing the warning speed to 400rpm. Tried 500rpm but it didnt fix it.
2 - CPU fan speed is all over the shop in BIOS and PC Probe. Jumping randomly from 17500rpm right up to 56000rpm!!!!!! and then pc probe warning that speed is 0 every now and then. Obviously wrong but is there a fix for this?
3 - When building this new system I found my PSU only has a 4 pin conector for the cpu and this board needs an 8 pin. It all works fine and I will upgrade the PSU eventually but should I leave overclocking until I have upgraded?

Thanks in advance guys.

P.S loving all the info on here!!


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> Hi everyone!! New to the gang with a P8Z68-V-GEN3, 8gb Kingston Hyper X Blu, Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro and a 2500k, woot!
> I have a couple of problems though.
> 1 - CPU fan error which i seemed to have fixed by reducing the warning speed to 400rpm. Tried 500rpm but it didnt fix it.
> 2 - CPU fan speed is all over the shop in BIOS and PC Probe. Jumping randomly from 17500rpm right up to 56000rpm!!!!!! and then pc probe warning that speed is 0 every now and then. Obviously wrong but is there a fix for this?
> 3 - When building this new system I found my PSU only has a 4 pin conector for the cpu and this board needs an 8 pin. It all works fine and I will upgrade the PSU eventually but should I leave overclocking until I have upgraded?
> Thanks in advance guys.
> P.S loving all the info on here!!


1- You can turn off the cpu fan monitoring. Any little glitch can cause the bios to shut down your system as a fail safe.
2- This is the system throttling up and down from load and of course it will take the fan along with it to cool the CPU.
3- I would get the new PSU asap as this can cause you problems with your system. I believe those connectors are for your phase control power and that will have an effect on a stable overclock.

Don't worry too much about your CPU fan as long as it is from a quality manufacturer and is connected correctly. You shouldn't have to worry about it for a long time if you can keep the dust off of it. I let a few fans go and it slowed them down considerably, so bad that one seized.


----------



## tarka

Thanks for the reply. as for number 2, I can here that the system is at idle and the fan is a steady speed, also that the CPU is a steady 4% but the fan speed still indicates 17500 - 56000rpm. There is no way this fan could even spin at 56000rpm. Its definately a glitch or bug in the bios or something and would be really nice to fix.
I have read of others with the same problem but so far havent found a solution. Anyone have any ideas?

Oh, also another problem, after the ASUS boot screen, all goes black with a blinking curser at the top left for about 40 seconds before it goes to the windows screen. Any ideas?
It is a clean install of windows 7 on a Samsung F1 by the way.

Thanks guys


----------



## Mercyflush64

More than likely your bios is searching for hardware that is enabled but does not exist. Onboard sound, bluetooth etc. Check your bios and disable any of that which you don't need and it should bypass the auto check for it.


----------



## tarka

I havent installed the jmicron drivers from the CD so i just disabled it in bios. That seemed to fix the boot delay.
Here is a really noob question though







I just disabled the splash screen to speed up boot time but del doesnt enter the
bios anymore. Just some other options, lol.
How do i enter the bios without the splash screen please? pretty please?


----------



## tarka

Srry guys, been trying to sort this for hours. Trawled the net but no joy.

Question is:
After disabling the splash screen, which key gets me into BIOS?

tried all f keys, and its not del anymore either


----------



## Mercyflush64

As soon as you hear the beep I start pressing the del key, a lot of times it happens long before the splash screen or I miss it and it shoots into windows,


----------



## tarka

Ah ha! that could be where the problem lies as my case has no speaker (no beeps). Will give it a go


----------



## tarka

OK, all going well










Turned off jmicron and splash hugely improved boot times.
Setting Qfan profile to Turbo sorted all the fan problems (erratic readings, 0rpm warnings, cpu fan error f1 warning)

Only thing left for now is turn off marvel but I cant find it in the BIOS?

Thanks for all the help so far Mercy!!


----------



## learningisfun

Are these Bios Settings Safe?

Hello everyone my name is Peter and I have just finished building my first custom computer tower with great consideration and research. I did 2 months of everyday research before I finally ordered the parts. I had a friend put the the tower together. I am attempting to overclock this tower mildly to a stable 4.5ghz but have not been successful in running a 12hour custom prime95 blend at 1344 fft or 1792 fft with 90% of my ram being used, I can pass maybe about 3 hours of prime95 but not 12 hours.

I have the following computer setup

i7-2600k 3.4ghz - 3.8ghz turbo boost
Asus p8p67 evo motherboard
2 kits of 2x4 gig dimm modules, each kit volt recommended at 1.5v, 16 gigs of ddr3 1600 ram total , timings at 9-9-9-24-2t
nvidia gt 430 gpu
700watt coolermaster silent series psu
nzxt h2 case
noctua nh-d14 heatsink

I am seeking advice/knowledge on

A) if my bios settings are safe and within acceptable value (based on personal preference of course)
B) if you have any recommendations to some changes I should make to my bios, what changes should I make?

These are my BIOS settings..

Ai Overclock Tuner = Manual
BCLK/PCIE Frequency = 100.0
Turbo Ratio = By per core
All cores ratio limit = 45
internel pll overvoltage = Disabled
Memory frequency DDR3 = 1600mhz
EPU power saving mode = Disabled
enhanced intel speedstep technology = disabled (Saving power does not benefit me and my purposes for this computer, I need constant power
and a constant 4.5ghz overclock)
Load line Calibration = High
VRM Frequency = Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency mode = 350
Phase Control = Optimized
Duty Control = Extreme
CPU Current Capability = 130%
CPU Voltage = Offset Mode = CPU offset Voltage -0.020 <-- I see a lot of people use +0.05 offset etc, maybe I should too?
Dram Voltage = 1.55 <---is this enough for 16gigs of ram? its rated at 1.5v but thats for only 2 x 4 gig dimms, i put 2 sets in my dimm slots so im not sure how much i should put for voltage. When set at Auto it was 1.65v
VCCSA Voltage = 0.925
VCCIO Voltage = 1.15
CPU PLL Voltage = 1.54375
PCH Voltage = 1.02 <---- was on auto but I read somewhere It could be lowered without affecting stability. was at 1.045 so I lowered it a little.
CPU Spread Spectrum = Enabled
CPU Ratio = Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor= Enabled
Hyper-Threading = Enabled
Active Processor cores = All
Limit CPUID Maximum = Disabled
Execute Disable Bit = Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology = Disabled
Enhanced Speedstep technology = Disabled
Turbo Mode = Enabled
CPU C1E = Disabled
CPU C3 Report = Disabled
CPU C6 Report = Disabled

Now I have read lots and lots of threads/posts on safe/acceptable bios settings/values and have done lots of tweaking myself without asking for help, however I have not been successful in running a 12hour prime95 test without hours or BSOD's, so I graciously come to this forum and seek advice/help from more experienced overclockers.

How does my BIOS settings look to you? Would you change anything? if so, what would you change and what would you change the value to?


----------



## Karlz3r

Hello, Peter, welcome to the forums!

There are a couple of things in your post that caught my attention:

*Phase Control = Optimized*
You mentioned that it's not important for you to save power. Try changing this to Extreme, that could possibly help with the system stability.

*CPU Voltage = Offset Mode*
Check how much VCORE is *CPU-Z* showing for your CPU inside of Windows.
If you do the Prime95 test and one of the cores is falling far behind or failing, you might want to up the voltage.
If you are not saving power, you could change the VCORE adjusting to manual, so you could use your preferred voltage.
Make sure to adjust the VCORE accordingly after checking how much the motherboard is recommending for the current overclock (just make the needed adjustments later).

*Dram Voltage = 1.55 <---is this enough for 16gigs of ram? its rated at 1.5v*
If all 4 of the sticks are rated at 1.5, better run them at 1.5VDIMM. It's also better for Sandy Bridge (2600K) if you don't exceed 1.5VDIMM for 24/7 use.
It might not matter in the beginning if you exceed 1.5, but it probably will in the end. The memory controller is inside the CPU and according to common beliefs, over 1.5 stresses the CPU.
If you aren't planning to overclock your memory, increasing VDIMM is not necessary.


----------



## WX4SNO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> You may not think so but if you even have stock settings from the bios the turbo is automatically turned on, so welcome to being an overclocker!


I'm an OC'er for sure now...managed to get my i7-2600 to 4.12 GHz so far using this motherboard...will push it even further soon!









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2380118


----------



## Karlz3r

My old P4 machine was always at 600 MHz OC with stock voltage and stock cooler, from 2.4 to 3.0.








Push that 2600 and see if you can get 1 GHz OC, would be as a (safe) achievement and would also grant you better knowledge of overclocking.


----------



## learningisfun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karlz3r*
> 
> Hello, Peter, welcome to the forums!
> There are a couple of things in your post that caught my attention:
> *Phase Control = Optimized*
> You mentioned that it's not important for you to save power. Try changing this to Extreme, that could possibly help with the system stability.
> *CPU Voltage = Offset Mode*
> Check how much VCORE is *CPU-Z* showing for your CPU inside of Windows.
> If you do the Prime95 test and one of the cores is falling far behind or failing, you might want to up the voltage.
> If you are not saving power, you could change the VCORE adjusting to manual, so you could use your preferred voltage.
> Make sure to adjust the VCORE accordingly after checking how much the motherboard is recommending for the current overclock (just make the needed adjustments later).
> *Dram Voltage = 1.55 <---is this enough for 16gigs of ram? its rated at 1.5v*
> If all 4 of the sticks are rated at 1.5, better run them at 1.5VDIMM. It's also better for Sandy Bridge (2600K) if you don't exceed 1.5VDIMM for 24/7 use.
> It might not matter in the beginning if you exceed 1.5, but it probably will in the end. The memory controller is inside the CPU and according to common beliefs, over 1.5 stresses the CPU.
> If you aren't planning to overclock your memory, increasing VDIMM is not necessary.


I read your comments and appreciate it very much thank you Karl. If I set a manual Vcore to 1.32 should I then disable LLC since I would have a constant voltage? I feel like there is some key element that I am not understanding. If I remember correctly when I was experimenting with manual vcore even though I had set a manual Vcore of 1.315 it was at 1.34 until it was under load, once under 100% load it then would drop the Vcore to about 1.31-1.335 .. why does it supply higher voltage under less stress? I thought the more processes the CPU has to work would equal more power? It confuses me that the power being supplied actually decreases when it does more work.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WX4SNO*
> 
> I'm an OC'er for sure now...managed to get my i7-2600 to 4.12 GHz so far using this motherboard...will push it even further soon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2380118


You should be able to do much more than that. My 2500k gets 4.3ghz with basic bios settings and nothing altered by me.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *learningisfun*
> 
> I read your comments and appreciate it very much thank you Karl. If I set a manual Vcore to 1.32 should I then disable LLC since I would have a constant voltage? I feel like there is some key element that I am not understanding. If I remember correctly when I was experimenting with manual vcore even though I had set a manual Vcore of 1.315 it was at 1.34 until it was under load, once under 100% load it then would drop the Vcore to about 1.31-1.335 .. why does it supply higher voltage under less stress? I thought the more processes the CPU has to work would equal more power? It confuses me that the power being supplied actually decreases when it does more work.


Setting manually does not mean you wont need LLC. Load brings voltage drop/droop...more resistance I think, but someone more electron educated could tell you better.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Hey guys, After months of flawless performance my ASUS P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3 has failed me I think. Will not turn on, Red VGA light lights up solid on boot-up. I have changed the GPU, tried my onbaord IGU, moved GPU's to different slot, single stick of RAM, even tried the Mem-OK! button, re-seated the CPU and of course reset the CMOS(With the jumper method outlined in the user manual, and the "old fashion way").

I have tested the GPU, RAM, and PSU in my back up rig, all worked perfect. I'm almost certein that my mobo's BIOS corrupted, or the PCI slot's broke. I also have a mobo speaker but it isn't sounding any noise's or anything. The memory and CPU lights on the board light up for a second and then shut off as normal, hangs on the VGA light, its not blinking just says lit.

I have seared google about the "Red VGA light of doom" and have exhausted every suggestion in the threads that worked for some of the other people to no avail. Just thought I would ask the comunity if they have anything to add before I make an attempt to RMA my board... With my experiance with ASUS RMA I'm better off tossing this on in the trash can and buying an entire board new... but my OS is OEM and locked to the silly z68... not happy about this at all. Anyway thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.


----------



## Karlz3r

Khaotic, did you also have the PCI-E lane overclocked or did you have it at 100 MHz?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karlz3r*
> 
> Khaotic, did you also have the PCI-E lane overclocked or did you have it at 100 MHz?


The only overclock's on the system where CPU and GPU.

I did find a way to get it to POST and load windows! But in order to do this I have to turn it on and let is do its power on self test. All on board LED's act as they should until its time for the VGA self test light. It stays solid for about 5 min then all the sudden the normal chirp from the mobo speaker sounds and it loads the BIOS, followed by windows.

The above is the same result for my 6950 (locked or unlocked, stock or overclocked), 460GTX (both overclocked and stock) and my IGPU (only stock never bothered with OC'ing it).

So far I can't even find anything in the net about what this might mean. Thanks.


----------



## Karlz3r

I actually had a somewhat similar issue a couple days ago.

When I powered on my PC, it was terribly slow and basically froze in the beginning and it didn't enter to the OS.
I also noticed that a red LED was on the motherboard. I looked closely and it turned out to be HDD led.

I decided to power off my PC, pull the cable out and power on the PC again to release the power in the PSU.

I removed the CMOS battery and let the BIOS reset. Checked the HDD cables, disconnected and reconnected them.

After that everything was totally fine again, like nothing ever happened.

Hopefully you got some ideas form this post, but there are not that many logical solutions left, perhaps RMA the board?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Karlz3r*
> 
> Khaotic, did you also have the PCI-E lane overclocked or did you have it at 100 MHz?
> 
> 
> 
> The only overclock's on the system where CPU and GPU.
> 
> I did find a way to get it to POST and load windows! But in order to do this I have to turn it on and let is do its power on self test. All on board LED's act as they should until its time for the VGA self test light. It stays solid for about 5 min then all the sudden the normal chirp from the mobo speaker sounds and it loads the BIOS, followed by windows.
> 
> The above is the same result for my 6950 (locked or unlocked, stock or overclocked), 460GTX (both overclocked and stock) and my IGPU (only stock never bothered with OC'ing it).
> 
> So far I can't even find anything in the net about what this might mean. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karlz3r*
> 
> I actually had a somewhat similar issue a couple days ago.
> 
> When I powered on my PC, it was terribly slow and basically froze in the beginning and it didn't enter to the OS.
> I also noticed that a red LED was on the motherboard. I looked closely and it turned out to be HDD led.
> 
> I decided to power off my PC, pull the cable out and power on the PC again to release the power in the PSU.
> 
> I removed the CMOS battery and let the BIOS reset. Checked the HDD cables, disconnected and reconnected them.
> 
> After that everything was totally fine again, like nothing ever happened.
> 
> Hopefully you got some ideas form this post, but there are not that many logical solutions left, perhaps RMA the board?


Actually there are a few things you can do to speed boot before considering an RMA.


Enable Advanced Mode for bios
Avoid & Disable Jmicron ports
Avoid & Disable Marvel Ports
If you have and don't use other board features disable them as well ie: 1394
Enable Power on by PCIE in bios
reduce POST check time to 2 sec
disable fully screen logo show
make sure no usb 2.0 devices are plugged into 3.0 ports
make sure your boot drive is first in the boot order before you do the next one and while you there disable all other boot devices.
last but not least set Keep Current for the option ROM messages


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

I will try to refine my BIOS but I don't think this will help any. I might have to post a video to explain.The problem is the "Power on self test LED" for the VGA stick's. Once the VGA self power test light shuts off (about 3.5-5 min) it boots lightning fast, same as before. I just cant find any more info on what the lights activity might mean, or why it would hang up like that all the sudden. Even dose it with the built in IGPU too. I'll try disabling unneeded stuff in the BIOS and report back.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Ok, Wanted to report back. I was able to speed up the boot up time(maybe a second or two), but as I suspected speeding up the boot up time did nothing for the power on self test.


----------



## Karlz3r

It might be a long shot, but maybe a real technician from ASUS could explain the issue (certainly not the usual tech support).
Something definitely seems to be rotting on your board, Khaotic, I would just return the board if it's still under warranty.









__
owcraftsman, thanks for the suggestions. I only boot up my system once a day and it's usually pretty fast, so it doesn't bother me.

The problem is that one of the oldest parts in my system are the Samsung F1 drives, which have been in constant use for 5 years and they are both in RAID-0. I make monthly/(weekly) backups now, since I'm afraid that the drives are soon to be dead.

I have had weird issues with the drives before as well. They pop up every once in a while. Sometimes the storage manager in the boot up shows that an error has occurred on one or the other drive. HDTune although reports that there are no bad sectors on the RAID. Won't bother doing the health checks, because I would have to disconnect the drives and individually check them in another system.
Anyway - they work right now, so no reason to worry yet.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Having had to deal with ASUS's poor technical support and horrid RMA service I would like to exhaust EVERY option. If I have to RMA this board and it go's down like the last few RMA's have I'm better off saving myself the time and money and buy a new board(thinking about the ASRock z68's). Dealing with ASUS is a last ditch option. Thanks for the suggestion though.


----------



## GeforceGTS

figured I'd post this here too since most people will miss it in the other thread ;x

Some of you may remember the issue from last year that was fixed, it seems to be back in 3207, basically, I had two profiles with two different offsets of around + 0.075 and 0.065, when switching between the two it gave me an offset of +0.910 which would give me around 2.0v in windows?







I've switched offsets on this bios before and it's been fine so I'm not sure if there is another variable causing it but the problem is there so be carefull









http://www.overclock.net/t/1050057/warning-asus-p8p67-offset-voltage-bug

EDIT: just did it again to make sure it wasn't a one off..


----------



## Karlz3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Having had to deal with ASUS's poor technical support and horrid RMA service I would like to exhaust EVERY option.


I can't understand how things are that bad in the US. The biggest reseller here handles problematic products that are under warranty with ease.
I have returned a couple of things and gotten replacements a couple days later.

Does the warranty only work through the manufacturer over there? Over here everything is done by the reseller and there is nothing to worry about myself as a customer.


----------



## borisvodofsky

YO YO

New owner of asus z68 here

Anyone know how to Narrow the load voltage fluctuations.

I have the 2500k CPU at 4.8ghz stable

Load IBT, range is 1.33-1.352-1.360

Load small FTT Prime95, range is 1.328-1.336

As you can see 1.36 is much higher than 1.328.

Is there a way to tweak some settings narrow those fluctuations by some setting???


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borisvodofsky*
> 
> YO YO
> New owner of asus z68 here
> Anyone know how to Narrow the load voltage fluctuations.
> I have the 2500k CPU at 4.8ghz stable
> Load IBT, range is 1.33-1.352-1.360
> Load small FTT Prime95, range is 1.328-1.336
> As you can see 1.36 is much higher than 1.328.
> Is there a way to tweak some settings narrow those fluctuations by some setting???


That fluctuations is because of different software, IBT stress your CPU more than Prime95 and its completly normal.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karlz3r*
> 
> I can't understand how things are that bad in the US. The biggest reseller here handles problematic products that are under warranty with ease.
> I have returned a couple of things and gotten replacements a couple days later.
> Does the warranty only work through the manufacturer over there? Over here everything is done by the reseller and there is nothing to worry about myself as a customer.


Here in the state's the re seller's (newegg, Microcenter, ect) offer a 30 days no question's asked return, In some case's you have to pay a restocking fee. My board is around 6 months old so I have to RMA it with ASUS. In my experience with ASUS their tech support and RMA policy's suck. When its all said and done it costs about 25-30 bucks to ship a mobo back to ASUS(packing material's and the box must meet their "standards" or they will refuse your RMA and ship your mobo back). I have sent more than one board back to ASUS and been stiffed. IME Their products are great, their return policy's suck. If this had happend in the first 30 days I would have taken it back to Microcenter already. Their return policy's are amazing, but they only offer 30 days unless you buy an extended warranty package from them. ASUS offer's a 3 year (in some case's 5) warranty. Its this reason I would like to exhaust all other options before trying an RMA.

However nobody know's much of anything about these boards power on self test, so it look's like I'm sending it back.


----------



## Karlz3r

We have a return policy over here as well, we can return unopened or faulty products and there is no problem with getting the money back within the first 2 weeks I think.

Most components have a warranty of 1-3 years from the reseller, depending on the product. If I'm not mistaken, my Z68 board has 2 year warranty from the reseller and after that from ASUS.


----------



## borisvodofsky

Wha... which reseller did you get 2 years warranty from. I got mine at NCIX, they give you a week or something like that.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borisvodofsky*
> 
> Wha... which reseller did you get 2 years warranty from. I got mine at NCIX, they give you a week or something like that.


NCIX is where? Canada or US? He's in Estonia, Eastern Europe. I would say different consumer laws. It is a similar situation in Australia...most warranties are through the reseller. One exception I've encountered to that in Australia is Seagate.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karlz3r*
> 
> We have a return policy over here as well, we can return unopened or faulty products and there is no problem with getting the money back within the first 2 weeks I think.
> Most components have a warranty of 1-3 years from the reseller, depending on the product. If I'm not mistaken, my Z68 board has 2 year warranty from the reseller and after that from ASUS.


Most re-seller's here (best buy, Micro Center, ect) offer a basic "return policy". How long it last's differ's from place to place, some its as little as 2 weeks(14 days) while other's will give you 90 days(3 months) from date of sale. On top of that most Store's also offer you the chance to buy and "extended" warranty for an additional charge, micro center will ask you if you want their special warranty package at the check out counter. But I feel the price's are a bit to steep for my blood.


----------



## borisvodofsky

Can anyone comment on my voltage settings? I heard some ridiculous stories about 1.55 cpu pll voltage, which I think arn't even for sandybridge.

I am stable at these settings prime, IBT, daily use... But I'd like to lower some of these, but I am not sure as to which one can be lowered.









it's 48x, 1.36 peak in IBT, 1.33 peak in Prime 95


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borisvodofsky*
> 
> Can anyone comment on my voltage settings? I heard some ridiculous stories about 1.55 cpu pll voltage, which I think arn't even for sandybridge.
> 
> I am stable at these settings prime, IBT, daily use... But I'd like to lower some of these, but I am not sure as to which one can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's 48x, 1.36 peak in IBT, 1.33 peak in Prime 95


Many have had great success lowering CPU PLL which allows for a lower vcore when done together. Personally 1.55v CPU PLL is to low as evidenced when benching with my setup. My sweet spot is 1.65v CPU PLL which produces the best bench results and lowered the offset requirement too. Your proc may be different but I would play around with it and see what happens and of course test for stability after your changes. GL


----------



## borisvodofsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Many have had great success lowering CPU PLL which allows for a lower vcore when done together. Personally 1.55v CPU PLL is to low as evidenced when benching with my setup. My sweet spot is 1.65v CPU PLL which produces the best bench results and lowered the offset requirement too. Your proc may be different but I would play around with it and see what happens and of course test for stability after your changes. GL


hey thanks for the tip,, what is your final clock speed such that you're using 1.65v for pll


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borisvodofsky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Many have had great success lowering CPU PLL which allows for a lower vcore when done together. Personally 1.55v CPU PLL is to low as evidenced when benching with my setup. My sweet spot is 1.65v CPU PLL which produces the best bench results and lowered the offset requirement too. Your proc may be different but I would play around with it and see what happens and of course test for stability after your changes. GL
> 
> 
> 
> hey thanks for the tip,, what is your final clock speed such that you're using 1.65v for pll
Click to expand...

I've clocked my proc as high as 5.0 for benching. I run 4.6 24/7 with the 1.65v CPU PLL and -0.001 offset. but again YMMV


----------



## borisvodofsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I've clocked my proc as high as 5.0 for benching. I run 4.6 24/7 with the 1.65v CPU PLL and -0.001 offset. but again YMMV


I am currently running 48x offset -0.030, peak voltage IBT 1.36

I tried PLL voltage from 1.8 down to 1.6, Nothing seems to be happening whatsoever.

What did you mean, when you said balance between performance and heat.. My heat and performance doesn't seem to correlate with this voltage, which irks me, because why was it 1.8 by default??


----------



## Glottis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rosencrantz*
> 
> Updated to the new BIOS 3304 today and now I can get my previous OC with a little less voltage


sounds like placebo


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borisvodofsky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I've clocked my proc as high as 5.0 for benching. I run 4.6 24/7 with the 1.65v CPU PLL and -0.001 offset. but again YMMV
> 
> 
> 
> I am currently running 48x offset -0.030, peak voltage IBT 1.36
> 
> I tried PLL voltage from 1.8 down to 1.6, Nothing seems to be happening whatsoever.
> 
> What did you mean, when you said balance between performance and heat.. My heat and performance doesn't seem to correlate with this voltage, which irks me, because why was it 1.8 by default??
Click to expand...

Vcore directly effects heat of the proc the higher it is the higher temps will be. If a lower CPU PLL produces a lower stable Vcore your thermals will benefit. The road to lower Vcore for a given clock can be long an tedious but there's no doubt that CPU PLL plays a role in getting there. The 1.8v default CPU PLL is an Intel spec and may well be needed for some procs but I can tell you form 1st hand experience and having read accounts here by others that lowering has and dose work for many to lower Vcore requirements. If you lowered CPU PLL and not Vcore offset you would not notice a difference.


----------



## borisvodofsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Vcore directly effects heat of the proc the higher it is the higher temps will be. If a lower CPU PLL produces a lower stable Vcore your thermals will benefit. The road to lower Vcore for a given clock can be long an tedious but there's no doubt that CPU PLL plays a role in getting there. The 1.8v default CPU PLL is an Intel spec and may well be needed for some procs but I can tell you form 1st hand experience and having read accounts here by others that lowering has and dose work for many to lower Vcore requirements. If you lowered CPU PLL and not Vcore offset you would not notice a difference.


OHHHHH....... Yea, now that you spelled it out for me.. I get it... the concept is so counter-intuitive that MY BRAIN couldn't make the U turn, or more like a K turn


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> I tried PLL voltage from 1.8 down to 1.6, Nothing seems to be happening whatsoever.


The Intel spec says the minimum PLL is 1.71 V


----------



## borisvodofsky

Compromise then, I'm gonna use 1.725


----------



## ranviper

Love my asus board, but as of late it seems one of my pci express x1 slots and my front panel audio port header don't seem to work. Audi only comes from my left headphone on any head set I use, and I have replaces the actual front panel audio card more than once. And, my asus wireless card doesnt seem to work on my top pci express x1 slot.

Any ideas? Hardware failure?


----------



## Mercyflush64

If you haven't changed any hardware or moved any rear cabling then I would look at your hardware. If you have then you may be experiencing some driver conflicts and/or setup issues. You can try a product like Driver Sweeper and reinstall your drivers. This product is a good idea to have anyway if you update your graphics drivers when new releases come out.

I always have an old backup machine handy for testing hardware like this. Don't throw out those old parts!


----------



## Rosencrantz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Glottis*
> 
> sounds like placebo


And it was, yesterday the system failed after a few hours with Prime95 running xD


----------



## Mackem

I got a RMA replacement motherboard recently after my old one bummed out (Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3). My RAM was working fine before the replacement. I installed the new motherboard and everything and tried to boot my computer and the PC wouldn't boot. The DRAM_LED on my board was lit up. I quickly realised that my PC would only boot when the RAM is set to 1333MHz. If I try to use 1600MHz, the DRAM_LED is lit up and my monitor is just black (as though my PC isn't even on). I have tried a lot of things and I am the end of my tether. I have tried:


Using 1 DIMM and using them in different slots - Still won't work at 1600MHz
Updating the BIOS
Resetting all of the BIOS settings to default
Clearing the RTC RAM by moving the jumper

I just cannot fathom what is wrong when this exact RAM was running at 1600MHz a couple of weeks ago, I now get messages saying 'Overclocking failed!' and have to press F1 and set the RAM at 1333MHz so that my PC will actually boot. I also found out that when using the RAM in the black slots instead of the blue slots, the PC won't boot either but when I press the button near the DRAM_LED, this time it set the RAM at 1066MHz rather than 1333MHz. I just don't know what could be wrong?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> I got a RMA replacement motherboard recently after my old one bummed out (Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3). My RAM was working fine before the replacement. I installed the new motherboard and everything and tried to boot my computer and the PC wouldn't boot. The DRAM_LED on my board was lit up. I quickly realised that my PC would only boot when the RAM is set to 1333MHz. If I try to use 1600MHz, the DRAM_LED is lit up and my monitor is just black (as though my PC isn't even on). I have tried a lot of things and I am the end of my tether. I have tried:
> 
> Using 1 DIMM and using them in different slots - Still won't work at 1600MHz
> Updating the BIOS
> Resetting all of the BIOS settings to default
> Clearing the RTC RAM by moving the jumper
> I just cannot fathom what is wrong when this exact RAM was running at 1600MHz a couple of weeks ago, I now get messages saying 'Overclocking failed!' and have to press F1 and set the RAM at 1333MHz so that my PC will actually boot. I also found out that when using the RAM in the black slots instead of the blue slots, the PC won't boot either but when I press the button near the DRAM_LED, this time it set the RAM at 1066MHz rather than 1333MHz. I just don't know what could be wrong?


And your running the RAM on XMP profile?

I have to RMA my board to ASUS...not looking forward to that... to many z68 mobo's from ASUS are having faults IMO.


----------



## Mackem

Yep, running it on X.M.P, auto or inputting everything manually still won't let me run it at 1600MHz when it used to on the old board.


----------



## evil jerry

I have an Asus P8Z68 V-Pro in one of my builds.

Has anyone else had problems with there on board audio going out on this motherboard. I am using a slot soundcard right now to get me by but my on board sound card is making a buzzing sound threw my speakers. Could it be something like a grounding issue.

Thanks in advance guys


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> I have an Asus P8Z68 V-Pro in one of my builds.
> 
> Has anyone else had problems with there on board audio going out on this motherboard. I am using a slot soundcard right now to get me by but my on board sound card is making a buzzing sound threw my speakers. Could it be something like a grounding issue.
> 
> Thanks in advance guys


Assuming the same set of speakers produce different results that rules out the speakers and or it's cables. So yes maybe a grounding issue or faulty motherboard. I would get the mobo out of the case and on to the workbench to rule out a mobo to case issue or an I/O plate issue where improper alignment could cause this issue. You could try the same speaker set on a different machines onboard audio to be sure. Other than that it points to a mobo issue in which case unfortunately it's time to RMA. GL


----------



## polynomialc

updated to new bios 3402, glad to report no bricked mobo, everything working good so far.

P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 BIOS 3402
1.Improve Improve system stability.
2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at:


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Assuming the same set of speakers produce different results that rules out the speakers and or it's cables. So yes maybe a grounding issue or faulty motherboard. I would get the mobo out of the case and on to the workbench to rule out a mobo to case issue or an I/O plate issue where improper alignment could cause this issue. You could try the same speaker set on a different machines onboard audio to be sure. Other than that it points to a mobo issue in which case unfortunately it's time to RMA. GL


REPPPPPP+++++ thank you as that will help me alot this week. I am switching over to my other build this week so this motherboard will get some diagnosing. Now that I think of it it might be an I/O plate issue as my Lanboy the motherboard is Reverse ATX.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Well I heard back from ASUS tech support. They want me to contact their RMA department and file for an RMA. Not going to lie.. make's me very nervous. I will say their response time was great with memorial holiday and all. Wish me luck, I really do love this board to death, and it sill work's great as long as I do not shut the PC down.


----------



## CyberSRS

Hello!

Please, help me if you can... I would really appreciate it!

Well, I update the motherboard BIOS to the last version, 3402 and the Turbo Ratio or CPU Ratio is missing from the BIOS and
TurboV EVO application... I have tried to downgrade to the backup version and still missing.
I did use EZ Flash BIOS and Asus Updater application, both ways.
I also tried to Clear CMOS and change the CPU from i7 2600k to i5 2500k.
Btw, the motherboard is ASUS P8Z68-V PRO.


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> If you haven't changed any hardware or moved any rear cabling then I would look at your hardware. If you have then you may be experiencing some driver conflicts and/or setup issues. You can try a product like Driver Sweeper and reinstall your drivers. This product is a good idea to have anyway if you update your graphics drivers when new releases come out.
> I always have an old backup machine handy for testing hardware like this. Don't throw out those old parts!


I have tried different hardware, and different slots in the same mobo, with no resolve. Also tried changed cable placement, etc. I have re-installed the drivers multiple times, and also installed a fresh new copy of windows - still, no resolve. Same issues as before.


----------



## Infinite Jest

I noticed some mid-pitched electrical buzzing coming from around the I/O area of my p8p67 pro today. I ruled out the CPU and fans and it's not audible with the case closed, but is this something I should be worried about or just a noisy cap?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I noticed some mid-pitched electrical buzzing coming from around the I/O area of my p8p67 pro today. I ruled out the CPU and fans and it's not audible with the case closed, but is this something I should be worried about or just a noisy cap?


Probably not your problem, but I have had a faulty beep speaker with buzz which disappeared as soon as I replaced it. That would be a "best case" scenario....

Also some overclocked GPUs can emit noises.

If you put a piece of tubing to one ear and move the other end around the mobo you might be able to isolate it.


----------



## saffransnisse

QUOTE=
Hello!

Please, help me if you can... I would really appreciate it!

Well, I update the motherboard BIOS to the last version, 3402 and the Turbo Ratio or CPU Ratio is missing from the BIOS and
TurboV EVO application... I have tried to downgrade to the backup version and still missing.
I did use EZ Flash BIOS and Asus Updater application, both ways.
I also tried to Clear CMOS and change the CPU from i7 2600k to i5 2500k.
Btw, the motherboard is ASUS P8Z68-V PRO.

Hi there,

I also got strange behaviour from the update to 3402 from 3304. I lost my multiple, and my ability to set iGPU :/
When in contact with ASUS they only said, since I upgraded bios on my own risk i am pretty much screwed.

I asked them if I bios announced with stability improvements should contain something to remove prepaid functionality on my board?
They still refused to help and this will probably be my last ASUS motherboard ever. Anyone else with similar exprerience ?

//Saff


----------



## bodean

To those who are using Lucid Virtu Software, do you have 1 monitor or 2? I have a 7970 ATI video card, and never really thought there was a benefit to using this lucid virtu software. Is it worth using then for daily use on my PC? Why do you use it?
I just installed it, and noticed I get a popup saying "The catalyst control center is not supported by the driver version of your enabled graphics adapter." Not sure why I'm getting this


----------



## OldGeek

Having fun with my new rig. I have some remarks elsewhere about my AMD thoughts. Basically AMD has tossed in the towel and I tossed out AMD. The I5-2500K is a sweet processor. Am doing all of this to run a butter smooth Microsoft Flight Simulator X. There are some things that would be nice with the Z77 and Ivy Bridge but believe anything more and I move into diminishing returns for my purpose. Was able to OC at about 4.6GHz very stable (I consider 1 hr on P95 as much as I have patience for...not out for glory). Tonight used the ASUS TurboV EVO to see what it would do. Not half bad as it turns out. In fact just like my OC by hand. 4.620GHz. For me the interesting thing was that the BCLK was raised to 105 and all was cool. Speaking of fairly cool, ran the IBT and went no higher than 70C. Very pleased. Am going to see what TurboV EVO did to my system and see if I should go back and hand tune. I did note that the VCORE got to 1.4V which is high but not unheard of.



Now it is hand tuning time. This time got a nice OC 4.804GHz but VCore got up to 1.42V and temp to 77C all during IBT. About a minute after the IBT it locked up, so stepped it down.



After backing down, this is really the sweet spot 4.600GHz for my CPU. I know with some patience I can get back to 4.7 but it's late and I've run out of patience. This time the VCore was a more reasonable 1.35 and temp of 71 all during IBT.



Thought for the future, I left all the C states on which many dismiss. Guess I'm set in my ways but like to allow Intel and all their built in CPU features i.e. anti-toasting, Turbo etc., to stay on. Soon I'll make some "short" P95 runs and make sure all is still good.


----------



## dboythagr8

I have the Z68 Deluxe mobo and just got a GTX 690. The 690 is PCI-E 3.0, and on my mobo box it says that it is 3.0 ready, and so does GPU-Z under Bus Interface:



I thought I had to get an Ivy processor for PCI-E 3.0 to work on a Z68 mobo?


----------



## GeneO

You do


----------



## Mackem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> Yep, running it on X.M.P, auto or inputting everything manually still won't let me run it at 1600MHz when it used to on the old board.


Just to continue on this point, I've been fiddling around and it turns out that both of my DIMMs do not work at 1600MHz in the two slots closest to the CPU. I tried each DIMM, 1 at a time in the other two slots and it booted at 1600MHz just fine. Do you guys think it's the motherboard or RAM?


----------



## OldGeek

Decided to do a little more tweaking. I watch Vcore and CPU Package temp as shown by CPUID Hardware Monitor. Again with the IBT. Vcore 1.46v and CPU package temp 74C. No lockups ...yet... getting 4.7GHz.



May go for one more round...love this system!


----------



## Dmavs41

I have an Asus P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3 (bios version 3304) and everything is running fine, but the bios is giving me Q-code error A0. I was wondering if anyone else that owns the same board or similar fixed this problem. All of my settings are at stock.

specs:
i5 2500k
16GB RAM
P8z68 deluxe/Gen3
hyperx 120 gb ssd
gigabyte gtx 670

Thanks


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmavs41*
> 
> I have an Asus P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3 (bios version 3304) and everything is running fine, but the bios is giving me Q-code error A0. I was wondering if anyone else that owns the same board or similar fixed this problem. All of my settings are at stock.
> 
> specs:
> i5 2500k
> 16GB RAM
> P8z68 deluxe/Gen3
> hyperx 120 gb ssd
> gigabyte gtx 670
> 
> Thanks


If the system is not working you may need to set up your boot drive by making sure it's first in the order of boot devices otherwise this is what you should see for normal operation when the system is running. You will see a series of numbers flash while posting on the Debug LED it stops at A0 when the POST (Power On Self Test) has handed things over to the boot drive indicating you have past all test.


----------



## dboythagr8

Any reason why I should update to BIOS 3304 from 3302 on the PZ68 Deluxe?


----------



## brfield

CPU-Z Validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2400237
Pics after I get a new case


----------



## Greg03

Solved: at least for me!
I was also having problems with slow boot on my P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 with Ivy Bridge 3770K and Revodrive3 X2. Put in many hours of unsuccessful fiddling with msconfig, services.msc, event log, procmon, and various other tweaks I stumbled across. Finally, I tried disconnecting my two external USB3.0 drives. That was the problem. The long black screen following the windows logo disappeared and reboots went from 146 sec to 72 sec. Was able to correct the problem by re-installing the Asmedia USB3 drivers. Reboots are still inconsistent, but range from 72 to 89 sec. Much better than 146 sec. Also, Passmark score is up to 5346 (with x45 multiplier). (note that Revodrive adds some time to reboot, but is blazing fast after it kicks in.) Hope this helps.


----------



## dafour

Q : is the bug gone in the p8p67 bios 2302 where your oc profile offset is way over the set value?i'm on 2103 and i have it.
I'm reading alot of problems with the 3207 bios (audio disappearing and such) so i'm glad i read up first before flashing.


----------



## Dmavs41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If the system is not working you may need to set up your boot drive by making sure it's first in the order of boot devices otherwise this is what you should see for normal operation when the system is running. You will see a series of numbers flash while posting on the Debug LED it stops at A0 when the POST (Power On Self Test) has handed things over to the boot drive indicating you have past all test.


Thanks for the reply, it looks like the A0 error code comes up after upgrading the bios to 3202 and higher. I was also wondering if anyone has gotten a black screen after uninstalling their graphics card drivers. For some reason every time I uninstall my graphics drivers my screen goes black and I have to manually reset my desktop. I have the Intel integrated graphics card enabled along with the lucid software. Both are running the latest drivers. Could the graphics card be the problem?

Here is my 3dmark 11 score 8747 http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3633413 (i5 2500k @4.5ghz and gtx 670 at @ stock)

Thanks


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmavs41*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If the system is not working you may need to set up your boot drive by making sure it's first in the order of boot devices otherwise this is what you should see for normal operation when the system is running. You will see a series of numbers flash while posting on the Debug LED it stops at A0 when the POST (Power On Self Test) has handed things over to the boot drive indicating you have past all test.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply, it looks like the A0 error code comes up after upgrading the bios to 3202 and higher. I was also wondering if anyone has gotten a black screen after uninstalling their graphics card drivers. For some reason every time I uninstall my graphics drivers my screen goes black and I have to manually reset my desktop. I have the Intel integrated graphics card enabled along with the lucid software. Both are running the latest drivers. Could the graphics card be the problem?
> 
> Here is my 3dmark 11 score 8747 http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3633413 (i5 2500k @4.5ghz and gtx 670 at @ stock)
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

If I understand you correctly when you restart after an uninstall of GPU drivers and get back to desktop you loose your selected desktop theme/wallpaper for a blank black screen. You still have system tray etc but no wall paper right? I'm not sure why this happens but it has happened to me as well. I suspect it's a Nvidia driver routine issue because this has happened to me with IGP disabled. If the GPU was flawed you'd have no access visible to start menu or a right click context menu available to reset your theme/desktop it would just be blank and you'd have to use system restore to get back to a normal desktop. So if I read correctly what you are saying I think you are fine plus your 3DM11 score is in line with similar system so the GPU and driver appear to be functioning properly. It may be best to not uninstall the driver when updating opting for the driver routine built in to the new driver. In other word just run the new driver when updating and use the default routine vs the uninstall routine. GL


----------



## kakarotto87

Hello guys...
I'm having a big trouble with my Asus P8p67 LE...
All conectors are fine... all hardwares too... BUT

when I power on my computer its not booting...

its turn on and off quickly...

If I leave only one HDD, or SSD, or DVD RW it works fine.

I already updated to the latest bios from asus website.

If I turn it on with HDD + DVD RW, it dont boot... same with 2 HDD or HDD + SSD... It works only with 1 device, its very annoying...

Sorry for the bad english, i'm from Brazil and asking for your help...

Thanks


----------



## Dmavs41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kakarotto87*
> 
> Hello guys...
> I'm having a big trouble with my Asus P8p67 LE...
> All conectors are fine... all hardwares too... BUT
> when I power on my computer its not booting...
> its turn on and off quickly...
> If I leave only one HDD, or SSD, or DVD RW it works fine.
> I already updated to the latest bios from asus website.
> If I turn it on with HDD + DVD RW, it dont boot... same with 2 HDD or HDD + SSD... It works only with 1 device, its very annoying...
> Sorry for the bad english, i'm from Brazil and asking for your help...
> Thanks


Your PSU may be the problem. What brand is it and whats the advertised wattage?


----------



## Dmavs41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If I understand you correctly when you restart after an uninstall of GPU drivers and get back to desktop you loose your selected desktop theme/wallpaper for a blank black screen. You still have system tray etc but no wall paper right? I'm not sure why this happens but it has happened to me as well. I suspect it's a Nvidia driver routine issue because this has happened to me with IGP disabled. If the GPU was flawed you'd have no access visible to start menu or a right click context menu available to reset your theme/desktop it would just be blank and you'd have to use system restore to get back to a normal desktop. So if I read correctly what you are saying I think you are fine plus your 3DM11 score is in line with similar system so the GPU and driver appear to be functioning properly. It may be best to not uninstall the driver when updating opting for the driver routine built in to the new driver. In other word just run the new driver when updating and use the default routine vs the uninstall routine. GL


The black screen comes on immediately after the driver is uninstalled. I can't even see if the driver has uninstalled properly, the screen goes black and it goes to sleep mode afterwards. The only way to get back into windows is by restarting the desktop manually.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Would it be safe to run two Thermalright TY-140s via a pwm splitter (only one fan having the tach wire) from the cpu-control mobo header on a p8p67 pro? I do have a fan controller that supports PWM input but it would be much more convenient to have the CPU fans (which would be the two TY-140s in push/pull) directly driven by the header.

EDIT: I may have answered my own question. The manual says it supports up to 1 A and each fan pushes to .2 A @ 100% fan speed for a grand total of .4 A draw. I'm assuming I'm in the clear?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmavs41*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If I understand you correctly when you restart after an uninstall of GPU drivers and get back to desktop you loose your selected desktop theme/wallpaper for a blank black screen. You still have system tray etc but no wall paper right? I'm not sure why this happens but it has happened to me as well. I suspect it's a Nvidia driver routine issue because this has happened to me with IGP disabled. If the GPU was flawed you'd have no access visible to start menu or a right click context menu available to reset your theme/desktop it would just be blank and you'd have to use system restore to get back to a normal desktop. So if I read correctly what you are saying I think you are fine plus your 3DM11 score is in line with similar system so the GPU and driver appear to be functioning properly. It may be best to not uninstall the driver when updating opting for the driver routine built in to the new driver. In other word just run the new driver when updating and use the default routine vs the uninstall routine. GL
> 
> 
> 
> The black screen comes on immediately after the driver is uninstalled. I can't even see if the driver has uninstalled properly, the screen goes black and it goes to sleep mode afterwards. The only way to get back into windows is by restarting the desktop manually.
Click to expand...

You are still confusing me, "by restarting the desktop manually" do you mean you right click on the black screen and click refresh in the context menu or do you have to restart your system? Is it a hard reset or are you using Task manager or start menu to restart? how do you know it goes in to sleep mode? Your verbiage or lack there of is confusing me.


----------



## Dmavs41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> You are still confusing me, "by restarting the desktop manually" do you mean you right click on the black screen and click refresh in the context menu or do you have to restart your system? Is it a hard reset or are you using Task manager or start menu to restart? how do you know it goes in to sleep mode? Your verbiage or lack there of is confusing me.


I meant to say, that i have to hold the power button to restart the computer. This happens every time right after the driver has been uninstalled. I have to do this every time I uninstall a driver because the screen is black, and it is not getting a signal from the graphics card i think.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Ever notice that people with problems and have a few posts about it almost never fill out their rigbuilder info so the forum junkies can help out properly.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmavs41*
> 
> I meant to say, that i have to hold the power button to restart the computer. This happens every time right after the driver has been uninstalled. I have to do this every time I uninstall a driver because the screen is black, and it is not getting a signal from the graphics card i think.


I get this too, what I do is let it sit there afterwards for 5-10 seconds and then just press enter and it reboots. IMO it should bring back the desktop after the driver uninstalls but for me it doesn't - it's not hung or gone to sleep etc, it's done the job but you just can't see it.

After pressing enter it reboots and all is good. Installing the (new) driver works as expected.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Ever notice that people with problems and have a few posts about it almost never fill out their rigbuilder info so the forum junkies can help out properly.


Yep... so true... my biggest problem is my crystal ball it keeps freezing could be memory related but not sure I forgot. lol


----------



## ocococ

Apologize if this has been asked before...and I'm not even sure if this is the right thread to ask, but I'll do it anyway.

I'm on an old BIOS version1101 with a stable 4.8ghz (without HT) OC, and 4.7ghz (with HT). Have people run into issues where they couldn't get back to a previously stable OC after they upgraded to a newer bios? (specifically with this board and these BIOS updates)

Thanks!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocococ*
> 
> Apologize if this has been asked before...and I'm not even sure if this is the right thread to ask, but I'll do it anyway.
> 
> I'm on an old BIOS version1101 with a stable 4.8ghz (without HT) OC, and 4.7ghz (with HT). Have people run into issues where they couldn't get back to a previously stable OC after they upgraded to a newer bios? (specifically with this board and these BIOS updates)
> 
> Thanks!


I'm still on 1101 and have read reports here going both ways for good and for bad when peeps update to 3xxx bios. Understand Asus will not support you unless you have a problem with your board that they recommend the update for and advise you to update. Otherwise you are on your own if you choose to update. Best advice if it ain't broke don't fix it, if it is, give mother Asus a call and get there blessing.


----------



## Shinwei

Following the TwoCables template, I wasn't all that ambitious and only aimed for a 4.5ghz overclock.

Maybe this is a dumb question, but how come my offset voltage seems to be totally different from his?

He set his to +0.040 and he's getting 1.37 to 1.39 V.
I had to set mine to -0.050 to get 1.35V, and if I set it to 0.000 I get like 1.45V at max load in Prime95.

I'm using the 3402 BIOS.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shinwei*
> 
> Following the TwoCables template, I wasn't all that ambitious and only aimed for a 4.5ghz overclock.
> Maybe this is a dumb question, but how come my offset voltage seems to be totally different from his?
> He set his to +0.040 and he's getting 1.37 to 1.39 V.
> I had to set mine to -0.050 to get 1.35V, and if I set it to 0.000 I get like 1.45V at max load in Prime95.
> I'm using the 3402 BIOS.


Not every electronic component is the same. I get the same voltage by only using a +0.020 offset with the 4.8ghz template .


----------



## Shinwei

+0.020V is pretty close to the template's +0.040V, only a 0.020V difference.

I guess my question was:
Should I be worried that my setting is SO DIFFERENT from the template's?
Mine is -0.050V, which is a 0.090V difference!
Seems like a big difference to me.


----------



## Mercyflush64

I would wonder why you had to go that far of an extreme for a lower clock speed if all of the other settings match the template. Make sure you check everything and didn't overlook a minor detail.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shinwei*
> 
> He set his to +0.040 and he's getting 1.37 to 1.39 V.
> I had to set mine to -0.050 to get 1.35V, and if I set it to 0.000 I get like 1.45V at max load in Prime95.


Different LLC setting..?


----------



## She loved E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Different LLC setting..?


x2... higher settings will give you higher vcore under load.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shinwei*
> 
> Following the TwoCables template, I wasn't all that ambitious and only aimed for a 4.5ghz overclock.
> 
> Maybe this is a dumb question, but how come my offset voltage seems to be totally different from his?
> 
> He set his to +0.040 and he's getting 1.37 to 1.39 V.
> I had to set mine to -0.050 to get 1.35V, and if I set it to 0.000 I get like 1.45V at max load in Prime95.
> 
> I'm using the 3402 BIOS.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shinwei*
> 
> +0.020V is pretty close to the template's +0.040V, only a 0.020V difference.
> 
> I guess my question was:
> Should I be worried that my setting is SO DIFFERENT from the template's?
> Mine is -0.050V, which is a 0.090V difference!
> Seems like a big difference to me.


Hi.









What are all of your settings? I mean, can you make screenshots of each section? (press F12 in the UEFI in each section as well as in each scroll position while a USB flash drive is attached) Let's be 100% sure of what your settings are and then we'll go from there.


----------



## Catscratch

I'm getting sick of the random application crashes at start like CCC.exe, Desktop Composition, Netlimiter or even Explorer.exe and I'm not even overclocking.

No individual component seems to be at fault and I'm pointing the blame to C1E, Speedstep, Turbo Mode and C3&C6 reporting. I'm sick of them too. Why are there many. Intel has to dumb it up. AMD has only 2, Cool'n'Quiet (OS controlled) and Turbo Core (CPU Controlled). If you have thuban or BD, you just use Turbo Core because it contains CnQ and it's hardware controlled, means fastest speed/voltage changing.

I've been messing around with C1E C3 C6 , Turbo Mode and SpeedStep. I think I'll end up not using any of them soon. Just 3300 mhz all the time, screw Green Power.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

I got " CPU fan error " message on boot and starts always doing some BEEP sound I already got it disconnected the one that was stuck and I got the new one but connected to the 12v line not to the motherboard like the other one...

What should I change to stop hearing that sound on the boot screen?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster*
> 
> I got " CPU fan error " message on boot and starts always doing some BEEP sound I already got it disconnected the one that was stuck and I got the new one but connected to the 12v line not to the motherboard like the other one...
> What should I change to stop hearing that sound on the boot screen?


AFAIK, in the Monitor section of the bios you can either lower the "CPU Fan Speed Low Limit" if plugged into mobo, or set "CPU Fan Speed" to ignore if you're not.


----------



## tarka

OK, perhaps a totally laughable question here guys.

I have never overclocked before and was thinking about going for 4.7. At the moment I have just enabled the whatever its called in the bios on the noob screen (extreme mode or something) and under load it ramps up to 4.325. Is there really much performance gain in manually overclocking from the auto 4.325 to 4.7?
I would REALLY like to know what the benefits are as I see people here overclocking to 4.3 and think well whats the point, just enable the noob button and leave all the complicated stuff alone.
Would I really see much difference in the extra .375ghz?????


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> OK, perhaps a totally laughable question here guys.
> I have never overclocked before and was thinking about going for 4.7. At the moment I have just enabled the whatever its called in the bios on the noob screen (extreme mode or something) and under load it ramps up to 4.325. Is there really much performance gain in manually overclocking from the auto 4.325 to 4.7?
> I would REALLY like to know what the benefits are as I see people here overclocking to 4.3 and think well whats the point, just enable the noob button and leave all the complicated stuff alone.
> Would I really see much difference in the extra .375ghz?????


I personally don't know, however if you wanted 4.7 GHz, then it would be necessary to go back to stock, switch to Advanced Mode, and then overclock from stock to 4.7 GHz (which is actually very easy).

For me, it's just a neat feeling to have my system overclocked to 4.7 GHz because that's my limit unless I want to increase the voltage by a large amount for only 100 MHz higher. Plus, I love the number 11, and 4+7=11.  I don't know yet if there's any performance improvement between 3.6 to 3.7 GHz max (stock result of stock turbo) and straight 4.7 GHz, but I still keep it there because I love it.


----------



## tarka

Thanks for the reply..

I pretty much know how to do it now. I have read tons of info and watched plenty on youtube. I just dont know if it is worth it?
I mean, is the auto overclock of 4325ghz any different to acheiving that figure manually? If not, why do people bother manually going to say 4.0ghz? (obviously this is on an Asus P8Z68) Or is there a massive difference? In which case I am sold on the idea.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> Thanks for the reply..
> I pretty much know how to do it now. I have read tons of info and watched plenty on youtube. I just dont know if it is worth it?
> I mean, is the auto overclock of 4325ghz any different to acheiving that figure manually? If not, why do people bother manually going to say 4.0ghz? (obviously this is on an Asus P8Z68) Or is there a massive difference? In which case I am sold on the idea.


You're welcome!

From what I can tell, doing it all manually allows us to have full control over the voltage, the BCLK (I prefer to leave it at 100 MHz), and all of the other settings!  I'm a DIY type of person, so I prefer to do things manually when it's possible. I find it to be more fun and more satisfying than letting anything do the work *for* me.


----------



## alancsalt

It's "worth it" if you are interested in overclocking and/or benchmarking. Some ppls get a lot of pleasure from stretching their hardware to its limits.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> It's "worth it" if you are interested in overclocking and/or benchmarking. Some ppls get a lot of pleasure from stretching their hardware to its limits.


Push it until you see smoke!


----------



## tarka

So really what you are both saying is that its worth it if its your hobby and it interests you but performance wise there isnt much to be gained?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> So really what you are both saying is that its worth it if its your hobby and it interests you but performance wise there isnt much to be gained?


In my opinion, the performance gains are most noticeable in benchmarks, but for where I think you're coming from:

Was the performance gain from the auto-overclock noticeable to you? Did you find that improved the performance of the apps you use? Take it from there.


----------



## Mercyflush64

When I am playing a game or just fiddling with files and such, I can't tell the difference when my CPU is at it's stock setting or running at 4.8ghz, I honestly can't tell the difference other than looking at the numbers in a sensor program. It just isn't that noticeable to make the difference worth all of the time spent tweaking and stability testing. The only thing I ever saw the presence of money and time well spent was to water cool my cpu and gpu. The 25% temp drop alone was a godsend for the hot climate my computer is in.


----------



## azianai

just a heads up for people. it seems microcenter has started to clearance out their Z68 boards.
I went on their website and found a bunch of Z68 boards listed at openbox/clearance pricing.

Went to my local one yesterday and found a P8Z68-Deluxe/Gen3 for $139.96 with a $40.00 rebate.
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0378090

Popped the box open to check it, everything looked brand new, all accessories sealed, etc.
Checked the board itself, the socketcap wasn't even removed.
So all they did was convert it to openbox/clearance from new!

out the door after tax for $150, get the rebate back and it'll be $110.

Not bad for a board that retailed a few months back over $250.

They also had a Maximus IV-Z for $95 bucks, but it was board only, nothing else.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azianai*
> 
> just a heads up for people. it seems microcenter has started to clearance out their Z68 boards.
> I went on their website and found a bunch of Z68 boards listed at openbox/clearance pricing.
> Went to my local one yesterday and found a P8Z68-Deluxe/Gen3 for $139.96 with a $40.00 rebate.
> http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0378090
> Popped the box open to check it, everything looked brand new, all accessories sealed, etc.
> Checked the board itself, the socketcap wasn't even removed.
> So all they did was convert it to openbox/clearance from new!
> out the door after tax for $150, get the rebate back and it'll be $110.
> Not bad for a board that retailed a few months back over $250.
> They also had a Maximus IV-Z for $95 bucks, but it was board only, nothing else.


Wow. That's almost better than your avatar! hehe

Thank you for the heads up, azianai!


----------



## tarka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> In my opinion, the performance gains are most noticeable in benchmarks, but for where I think you're coming from:
> Was the performance gain from the auto-overclock noticeable to you? Did you find that improved the performance of the apps you use? Take it from there.


Thanks for all the replys. I hit auto overclock almost straight away after building the system so I couldnt say how it performs as stock. I think for now I will leave it as is until I get a better cooler as I have the freezer 7 pro with dodgy speed readings.

On another subject. I have a graphics card installed so should I have render standy on or off in the bios?
Thanks again guys


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> Thanks for all the replys. I hit auto overclock almost straight away after building the system so I couldnt say how it performs as stock. I think for now I will leave it as is until I get a better cooler as I have the freezer 7 pro with dodgy speed readings.


Can you put it back to stock, see how it feels for a few hours or a few days, and then go back for comparison?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> On another subject. I have a graphics card installed so should I have render standy on or off in the bios?
> Thanks again guys


I'm not sure. My personal choice would be Off. Then that might show whether or not it's needed.


----------



## Erper

hi guys
havent been here for long time..
i have question regard to my weird problem...
last summer ive upgraded mobo/cpu/ram but on old 500w psu...
even before on same psu i had bsods, not often but maybe once a month...
for the last 2-3 months i have them 3-5 times weekly so ive decied that maybe psu is failing so i went for new 750w...
but that didnt sort the problem...
any ideas what might be the problem in it cause i cant think of anything atm...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> hi guys
> havent been here for long time..
> i have question regard to my weird problem...
> last summer ive upgraded mobo/cpu/ram but on old 500w psu...
> even before on same psu i had bsods, not often but maybe once a month...
> for the last 2-3 months i have them 3-5 times weekly so ive decied that maybe psu is failing so i went for new 750w...
> but that didnt sort the problem...
> any ideas what might be the problem in it cause i cant think of anything atm...


Hi, Erper!

Are you using an Offset Voltage?

If so, then the usual solution is to disable CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report.


----------



## Erper

usually i set voltages manually and disable all C reports...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> usually i set voltages manually and disable all C reports...


Well that sucks because I was hoping we'd solve this in record time. hehe









So you're using Manual Mode instead of Offset Mode?


----------



## Erper

yep...
my manual voltages for 4.5 is usually 1.29-1.30V
so i left a bit space on 1.32V


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> yep...
> my manual voltages for 4.5 is usually 1.29-1.30V
> so i left a bit space on 1.32V


Are you using the navy blue SATA ports? I've heard those can cause problems like this too.


----------



## Erper

i do use them cause ive got new hdd so i wanted to try sata 3 options and check speeds...
u think that might cause some problems...
before i had connected 2hdd on dark blues and had bsods but not that often,...
any other idea


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> i do use them cause ive got new hdd so i wanted to try sata 3 options and check speeds...
> u think that might cause some problems...
> before i had connected 2hdd on dark blues and had bsods but not that often,...
> any other idea


The white ports are SATA 3. Or, are they full?


----------



## Erper

sorry my mistake...
ive just came home from night shift...
i use light blue and white, not navy ones...


----------



## TwoCables

Hmm.

Are the Navy Blue ports enabled, and is the Marvell driver/software installed for them? I don't know if that would do it, but it would be worth disabling them anyway to get faster boot times and reboot times.


----------



## Erper

Disabled, no driver instaled...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Disabled, no driver instaled...


Aw man.

Hmm. This is certainly a challenge. lol

I think this is a long shot, but if you have 2 sticks of memory, then are the in the blue or black slots?


----------



## Erper

Black...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Black...


Oh! This might be the culprit because the manual says 2 sticks are supposed to go in the blue slots.


----------



## Erper

Ok will try that later...
Any other ideas???


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Ok will try that later...
> Any other ideas???


Nope. I think I scraped the bottom of my barrel with that one. When I stick my head in there, I get a pretty cool reverb now.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Nope. I think I scraped the bottom of my barrel with that one. When I stick my head in there, I get a pretty cool reverb now.


Hehe...
Ill try swapping sticks to see would there be any result...
Thx for this....
Ive also read somewhere when u change ur psu that u have to put bios to default and than set up bios again


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Hehe...
> Ill try swapping sticks to see would there be any result...
> Thx for this....
> Ive also read somewhere when u change ur psu that u have to put bios to default and than set up bios again


I've never heard of that. Was that something someone here on OCN said?

Anyway, after you switch the sticks to the blue slots, is there anything that would normally trigger the BSOD? Or are we going to have to wait a few days?


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I've never heard of that. Was that something someone here on OCN said?
> 
> Anyway, after you switch the sticks to the blue slots, is there anything that would normally trigger the BSOD? Or are we going to have to wait a few days?


I dont think that ive read that here..
it was GOOGLE... hehe...

so far, no bsods....
but will still wait for changes


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> I dont think that ive read that here..
> it was GOOGLE... hehe...
> so far, no bsods....
> but will still wait for changes


It's all good. I'll try to remember that if you don't report any BSODs by next Saturday, then this must have been the solution.


----------



## Erper

had 2 bsods so far, since 3pm till now....
something is wrong...
also ive just checked voltage on ram since ive placed them in blue slots and they show 1.6V


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> had 2 bsods so far, since 3pm till now....
> something is wrong...
> also ive just checked voltage on ram since ive placed them in blue slots and they show 1.6V


Is there anything in the BSOD that might indicate what the problem is, such as a mention of a driver or something like that?


----------



## Erper

ive remembered the first number///
its 0x0000 (who knows how many 0) 124...

ive googled that and it said new hardware is installed...
but nothing new came in case beside psu but that happened before too..
also ive added 1.36Vcore to see what will happened


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> ive remembered the first number///
> its 0x0000 (who knows how many 0) 124...
> ive googled that and it said new hardware is installed...
> but nothing new came in case beside psu but that happened before too..
> also ive added 1.36Vcore to see what will happened


What clock speed is it at?


----------



## Erper

its 4.5


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> its 4.5


Oh. Then it may just need a higher core voltage, such as like what you entered. Still, keep the memory in the blue slots.









What core voltage are you getting under full load?


----------



## Erper




----------



## TwoCables

Oh ok. Well hey, maybe this is what it needed. We'll see.

I have to say that the "124" BSOD sounds familiar to me, like I think that to overclockers, it means a higher core voltage is needed.


----------



## Erper

idk ill see what will happen in next 2h...
if its bsod free that means he needed extra vcore...
if not, than back to square one


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> idk ill see what will happen in next 2h...
> if its bsod free that means he needed extra vcore...
> if not, than back to square one


If it BSODs again, then I recommend trying a little more core voltage. It may just need a little more than most 2500Ks need for 4.5 GHz.


----------



## Erper

well it was working 5ghz on 1.4V but just to test it out...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> well it was working 5ghz on 1.4V but just to test it out...


I know, but it still may need 1.36V or slightly more for 4.5 GHz in order to be perfectly stable.


----------



## Erper

ill keep an eye on it now... just to make sure is that possible current problem


----------



## replin

Hey I'm running sli on my P8P67 Evo. does the 2nd PCI slot not work at full power if I'm running SLI? The reason I ask is because I just bought a X-fi Prelude and installed it and I only get sound from my front left/right, center, and left side/rear surround speakers. I disabled in the bios usb 3.0, both lan controllers, onboard audio, via1394, etc.. Can anyone help?


----------



## PCWargamer

I am considering upgrading my BIOS from 3201 to either 3304 or 3402, but I am not sure that would be an improvement.

Is there any consensus yet on if 3304 or 3402 would be better for users than 3201? (for P8Z68-V/Gen3)

Thanks!


----------



## Glottis

If I remember correctly there was a critical bug in 3201, so you should update to 3202 or later. I am on 3202 for months and it's been super stable.


----------



## kevindd992002

Is it recommended to upgrade my board's BIOS to the latest version if I decide to overclock?


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I know, but it still may need 1.36V or slightly more for 4.5 GHz in order to be perfectly stable.


so far no bsods...
so 1.36V for 4.5Ghz


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Glottis*
> 
> If I remember correctly there was a critical bug in 3201, so you should update to 3202 or later. I am on 3202 for months and it's been super stable.


Thanks for your response. I have heard others also say that 3202 was good, but Asus only offers 3201, 3304, 3402 on their website for my P8Z68-V/Gen3 motherboard. I have 3201 now which I upgraded from the original BIOS the board came with.

3304 and 3402 are supposed to have improved board stability, but I have seen some complants about problems with 3402 on some forums. I was hoping someone on this forum would have some good advice about them from the shared experience found here.

What motherboard are you using with 3202? I wonder if it would work for my MB if 3201 has a bug of some kind.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is it recommended to upgrade my board's BIOS to the latest version if I decide to overclock?


It depends. Some BIOS is better than others. One always hopes the latest will bring improved stability, but some newer ones come with bugs. So, I like to know something about how they are working before just loading up the latest one. If I run into problems I will let others know too.

I will OC on whatever BIOS I have at the moment though to see what it does.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is it recommended to upgrade my board's BIOS to the latest version if I decide to overclock?


I think it really depends on your hardware that you are connecting to the board. Bios editions get upgraded for the rare bug or interface fix but mainly they do for updated hardware. All of my hardware was used well before I got my board and things ran just fine on the original shipped bios. If you have some conflicts I would try an upgrade, if not then leave it.


----------



## ViTosS

Hey guys, I have one *Asus P8P67 Pro* and always when I start up my PC it does a short beep sound, I did read the manual and there says if it does one short beep it means *''VGA detected''*, *''Quick boot set to disabled''* and *''No keyboard detected''*. The two first options are correct, but no keyboard detected? What?

Just want to know if this is normal and everyone's mobo make the beep sound too at the startup.

Thanks!


----------



## alancsalt

For as long as I can remember one short beep has always meant "ram successfully detected" to me, but regardless I take it as all booting correctly.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is it recommended to upgrade my board's BIOS to the latest version if I decide to overclock?


I recommend overclocking with the UEFI BIOS version that you have now and then seeing how it goes. This is just one of those "Your Mileage May Vary" situations.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> so far no bsods...
> so 1.36V for 4.5Ghz


Nice!

Keep the updates coming.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViTosS*
> 
> Hey guys, I have one *Asus P8P67 Pro* and always when I start up my PC it does a short beep sound, I did read the manual and there says if it does one short beep it means *''VGA detected''*, *''Quick boot set to disabled''* and *''No keyboard detected''*. The two first options are correct, but no keyboard detected? What?
> Just want to know if this is normal and everyone's mobo make the beep sound too at the startup.
> Thanks!


I don't get a short beep, but I also don't have a little speaker connected either (so I never hear anything). However, I always thought that 1 short beep usually means "everything is ok". The "No keyboard detected" part may mean "...or it may mean that there is no keyboard detected". I mean, it can't mean all 3 simultaneously because "VGA detected" sounds like a good thing, and "Quick boot set to disabled" sounds like a neutral message.


----------



## ocman

What's going on with turrican9 (the original thread starter)? Haven't seen him post for months...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocman*
> 
> What's going on with turrican9 (the original thread starter)? Haven't seen him post for months...


He is no longer on OCN.

That is all I am allowed to say.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Mine beeps after the bios is detected and right before I get the option for a few seconds to go into the it or just let it boot. Sounds normal to me.


----------



## alancsalt

Looking up single beep on startup...
Quote:


> The computer power-on self-test (POST) tests the computer to make sure it meets the necessary system requirements and that all hardware is working properly before starting the remainder of the boot process. If the computer passes the POST the computer will have a single beep


----------



## Erper

2 days no bsod...
so for conclusion

for 4.5Ghz
you need
1.36Vcore
to be stable


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> 2 days no bsod...
> so for conclusion
> 
> for 4.5Ghz
> you need
> 1.36Vcore
> to be stable


Well, some do and some don't.









Still, I'm very happy that the solution seems to have been simple so far. I admit I was concerned for a while there that this might be complicated.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, some do and some don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, I'm very happy that the solution seems to have been simple so far. I admit I was concerned for a while there that this might be complicated.


me too as i couldn't define exact problem...
thought might be something else, like mobo or cpu thats failing


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> 2 days no bsod...
> so for conclusion
> for 4.5Ghz
> you need
> 1.36Vcore
> to be stable


...

I got 4.5 stable on 1.29v a month ago, stable, as a novice OCer using a guide as a baseplate.


----------



## TwoCables

No two are identical.


----------



## Erper

just one quick question...
what sound card would be good to pair with this mobo...


----------



## kevindd992002

What will I be getting anyway if I update to the latest BIOS of my mobo?


----------



## Gamingnub

If you don't have a problem with the BIOS you're using right now, there's no need to update it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What will I be getting anyway if I update to the latest BIOS of my mobo?


This is what ASUS is saying

Quote:


> P8Z68-V/GEN3 BIOS 3402
> 
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> 
> 3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
> 
> P8Z68-V-GEN3 BIOS 3201
> 
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 
> 2.Improve memory compatibility.
> 
> 3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
> 
> * Enable support for Intel Next Gen 22nm Processor E1 stepping MP version CPU (available from BIOS 3012).


That's the best that I can do, but if it isn't broken, then don't fix it (or risk it).


----------



## kevindd992002

I want to keep everything updated. I'm an OC type of person. So if the latest BIOS has all positive reviews then I will go for it







I hope that people with the same board as mine can shed light on my question.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I want to keep everything updated. I'm an OC type of person. So if the latest BIOS has all positive reviews then I will go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that people with the same board as mine can shed light on my question.


Sometimes it's best to not update. I have 4 good examples:

First, my UEFI BIOS version. My system is working flawlessly, so I'm not going to disturb it.

Second, Firefox. I am still using Firefox 12 even though 13.01 is out. I keep the updates turned off so that I have full control over what gets installed and when. Recently, heard bad things about Firefox 13 which makes me happy that I prefer to keep automatic updates off.

Third: Shockwave Flash. I'm still using 11.1.102.63 because each new version above that results in me not being able to watch HD views (they just show up as nothing but green).

Fourth: my display driver. I'm still using NVIDIA Display Driver version 285.62 even though the latest is 301.42. Newer versions bring me problems that I currently don't have. Mine was released on October 24th, 2011 and everything is still working beautifully and perfectly.

In other words, why mess with perfection?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> It depends. Some BIOS is better than others. One always hopes the latest will bring improved stability, but some newer ones come with bugs. So, I like to know something about how they are working before just loading up the latest one. If I run into problems I will let others know too.
> I will OC on whatever BIOS I have at the moment though to see what it does.


Can you specify what probelms are there with the 3402 and which forums did you see those issues? I'm currently in the same boat as you but my board is still on the initial BIOS release (0401).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Sometimes it's best to not update. I have 4 good examples:
> 
> First, my UEFI BIOS version. My system is working flawlessly, so I'm not going to disturb it.
> 
> Second, Firefox. I am still using Firefox 12 even though 13.01 is out. I keep the updates turned off so that I have full control over what gets installed and _when_. Recently, heard bad things about Firefox 13 which makes me happy that I prefer to keep automatic updates off.
> 
> Third: Shockwave Flash. I'm still using 11.1.102.63 because each new version above that results in me not being able to watch HD views (they just show up as nothing but green).
> 
> Fourth: my display driver. I'm still using NVIDIA Display Driver version 285.62 even though the latest is 301.42. Newer versions bring me problems that I currently don't have. Mine was released on October 24th, 2011 and everything is still working beautifully and _perfectly_.
> 
> In other words, why mess with perfection?


I got you. From the 4 examples you gave, I personally am agreeing with the fourth one since I\m using 296.10 in my lapotp because 301.42 brings me BSODs where as 301.42 is very stable on my desktop. For the second example, I use Waterfox13 (Firefox 64-bit) so I can't comment on that. For the third example, yes I know about all these Flash issues but the latest one works best for me.

So ultimately, for the BIOS update for my board, as long as I know that the latest version don't have any critical bugs or problems I will still update to it







Besides, I haven't started overclocking my system yet so I'd better start OC'ing after updating the BIOS


----------



## TwoCables

The reason why I used the examples of Shockwave Flash and the NVIDIA drivers is because not everyone is experiencing the same problems that I am.

So I think that it's just like with the BIOS: just because people say a BIOS version has no problems, how do you know that it won't have problems with *your* system? After all, no two systems are truly identical.

I just don't want you to update and then come back saying that you have some problems that you didn't have before. I mean, I think that once you update, you can't go back.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The reason why I used the examples of Shockwave Flash and the NVIDIA drivers is because not everyone is experiencing the same problems that I am.
> 
> So I think that it's just like with the BIOS: just because people say a BIOS version has no problems, how do you know that it won't have problems with *your* system? After all, no two systems are truly identical.
> 
> I just don't want you to update and then come back saying that you have some problems that you didn't have before. I mean, I think that once you update, you can't go back.


Got your point.

Well yeah, but I want to update the BIOS mostly because I want an updated ME. It's just that from the several motherboards I've handled in my life I was always accustomed to updating it first to the latest version but I read reviews about that particular version first. Sorry, I know I have an Obsessive-Compuslive disorder on things


----------



## alw71

I have just wiped my hard drive after getting a virus. Now after reinstalling all drivers when my pc goes to sleep it wont come out of hybernation when I switch it back on.
I have a P8v68 pro and a caviar black HDD.
What should I have the boot device set too? I have to go into the bios and select windows boot manager to be able to sort the problem which deletes the windows restoration point I was at.
I have turned sleep off in Windows power settings and will see what happens when I get home.
Is there another setting on the mother board that i can change to sort this hybernation problem anyone?


----------



## alancsalt

I bought another Gainward GTX580 with EK block for tri-sli, because it was there and an OK deal really, before I twigged that my Z68 DeluxeGen3 third GFX slot was only x4. While I wait for the Maximus V release I'm going to install it anyway and see just how bad the "bottleneck"is. Has anyone here ever tried tri sli in a P8Z68?


----------



## ocman

I missed turrican9... he's definitely one of the active contributors in the OCN community! A hall of fame figure in my opinion!


----------



## chillidog

lots of the old timers don't post on here now since this forum was updated. alot liked the old system,my saying if it works don't mess about with it


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocman*
> 
> I missed turrican9... he's definitely one of the active contributors in the OCN community! A hall of fame figure in my opinion!


He is no longer a member of OCN. That is all I am allowed to say.


----------



## alw71

Shame no one ever activley contributes to helping people with problems then isnt it


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71*
> 
> Shame no one ever activley contributes to helping people with problems then isnt it


What makes you say that?


----------



## Rubers

Hi,

Just posting my proof =D

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2429319


----------



## Andrazh

Hi. I own an Asus p8z68v/gen3 mobo and i have encountered a problem.

I can't install asus suite. I run the exe file and then i have to allow install for 2-3 different exe files and then it says that asus suite is not responding... What can i do?

I have a fresh windows 7 x64 install. Can someone tell me what i need to enable in bios and what do i need to install to get the virtu MVP working?

I have 7950 and 2500k.

EDIT:
Ok i got asus suite II installed. But i can't get Virtu working. Any help?


----------



## BrotherJoseph

I updated my V-Pro BIOS from 1101 to 3402. I now get skipping/freezing in Windows, its more frequent when I watch videos or am playing games. It makes DayZ nearly unplayable as it freezes the game for 1-5 seconds at a time, sometimes in rapid succession. Enough time for a zombie to eat my brains.
I can't figure out what it is. I tried lowering my RAM speed, CPU clock, disabling/re-enabling IRST, raising/lowering voltage all to no avail.
I had planned on downgrading my BIOS back to 1101, but I have been reading that people are bricking their z68's by downgrading from a 3XXX BIOS.

Does anyone have advice on how I should proceed to fix this issue?

Please help me keep my brains.

UPDATE: I also noticed that the reset button doesn't work, and it no longer turns off completely. I have to hold the power button down. Also, sometimes when I turn it on it wont even get to post before shutting down. Awesome, Thank you so much Asus









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2429967


----------



## alw71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What makes you say that?


Because everytime i ask a question it never gets answered unless i kick up a fuss. It just gets glossed over and people carry on talking about another subject as if i wasnt there.
This has happened on every post i have ever made
This whole board is not very user friendly unless you contribute 4000 posts!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71*
> 
> Because everytime i ask a question it never gets answered unless i kick up a fuss. It just gets glossed over and people carry on talking about another subject as if i wasnt there.
> This has happened on every post i have ever made
> This whole board is not very user friendly unless you contribute 4000 posts!


Are you talking about just in this thread?

Or are you talking about threads you have created?


----------



## Karlz3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71*
> 
> Because everytime i ask a question it never gets answered unless i kick up a fuss. It just gets glossed over and people carry on talking about another subject as if i wasnt there.
> This has happened on every post i have ever made


This mostly happens when the issue is not commonly known, thus people will answer or discuss another problem - the one where they have the knowledge to answer.

If such things occur, I recommend a new topic to get your issue sorted out.









I'm having problems with my hard drives recently, but since they are old already, I should replace them soon. Just updated my 3201 bios to 3402 and updated all drivers. Hoping the drives will not die on me any time soon, because new ones cost a ton these days.








OC is still 0.88/1.6GHz idle and 1.20/4.0GHz load, so far so good.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karlz3r*
> 
> This mostly happens when the issue is not commonly known, thus people will answer or discuss another problem - the one where they have the knowledge to answer.
> If such things occur, I recommend a new topic to get your issue sorted out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having problems with my hard drives recently, but since they are old already, I should replace them soon. Just updated my 3201 bios to 3402 and updated all drivers. Hoping the drives will not die on me any time soon, because new ones cost a ton these days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OC is still 0.88/1.6GHz idle and 1.20/4.0GHz load, so far so good.


Glad to hear you were able to go from 3201 to 3402. Did you have any difficulties in going from 3201 to 3402? My Asus uploader in win7 and the EZ flash in BIOS noted problem/error and would not allow me to update. Asus tech said I would need to use the USB stick boot option to get around the error.

Also, is everything working good? I noted your idle and OC volts look the same where some have noted they needed higher volts for same clocks on 3402. Others have also noted stability issues. I hope yours is stable.


----------



## Rubers

^ I used the USB stick oiption myself. It seems a lot safer than having it done through windows. Too much can go wrong, imho. Whereas in the BIOS itself there isn't much happening.


----------



## Karlz3r

When I update the BIOS, I just put the BIOS file on my USB stick and use Asus EZ Flash 2 from the board's UEFI BIOS.
I've updated the BIOS twice already and never had a problem with it doing it this way.

OC is nicely stable, just like before. Haven't encountered any issues yet.


----------



## kevindd992002

I just updated my board's BIOS to 3402 and noticed that there's a new "memory remap feature" option. What does it exactly do? Do I keep it enabled (default) or disabled?

Also, I noticed that I'm still able to boot to my UEFI OS drive but the UEFI strip in the icon in Boot Priority is gone? Windows Boot Manager is also gone. Is this normal?


----------



## Rubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I just updated my board's BIOS to 3402 and noticed that there's a new "memory remap feature" option. What does it exactly do? Do I keep it enabled (default) or disabled?
> Also, I noticed that I'm still able to boot to my UEFI OS drive but the UEFI strip in the icon in Boot Priority is gone? Windows Boot Manager is also gone. Is this normal?


IIRC, Memory Remap is how much RAM to allocate to the onboard graphics? Disable it if you have a discrete GPU.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I just updated my board's BIOS to 3402 and noticed that there's a new "memory remap feature" option. What does it exactly do? Do I keep it enabled (default) or disabled?
> Also, I noticed that I'm still able to boot to my UEFI OS drive but the UEFI strip in the icon in Boot Priority is gone? Windows Boot Manager is also gone. Is this normal?


That has been there with every version of the BIOS on your board. You just must not have noticed.

It allows you to use more than 4GB of address space. by remapping some device spoace that usually sits at the 4GB boundary to higher addresses. If you do not enable it you will only see 4GB of your memory.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rubers*
> 
> IIRC, Memory Remap is how much RAM to allocate to the onboard graphics? Disable it if you have a discrete GPU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> That has been there with every version of the BIOS on your board. You just must not have noticed.
> It allows you to use more than 4GB of address space. by remapping some device spoace that usually sits at the 4GB boundary to higher addresses. If you do not enable it you will only see 4GB of your memory.


I'm 100% sure it was not an option for the initial BIOS version (0301), I have screenshots to prove it if you like







That goes for the initial BIOS version of the P8Z68-V non-gen3 boards as well (I had this mobo before).

This is what I noticed, with that option enabled I get "8.00GB (7.90 usable)" under Windows. With it disabled, I get "8.00GB (7.1 usable)". So I'm not sure why you said that with it disabled I will only see 4GB in my OS?


----------



## Rubers

Then with it enabled the board is reserving 100mb for the iGPU, whereas without it's using much more. Memory remapping is 100% the onboard GPU.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rubers*
> 
> Then with it enabled the board is reserving 100mb for the iGPU, whereas without it's using much more. Memory remapping is 100% the onboard GPU.


So how does it really work? When it is enabled, where does it get the difference of 800MB (7.90GB - 7.10GB)?


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm 100% sure it was not an option for the initial BIOS version (0301), I have screenshots to prove it if you like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That goes for the initial BIOS version of the P8Z68-V non-gen3 boards as well (I had this mobo before).
> This is what I noticed, with that option enabled I get "8.00GB (7.90 usable)" under Windows. With it disabled, I get "8.00GB (7.1 usable)". So I'm not sure why you said that with it disabled I will only see 4GB in my OS?


I know it has been there since 0402 - that is the BIOS I had when I got my board.

Well, it depends on the chipset and the maximum amount of memory it can support. The device drivers expect to be mapped to the upper 4GB of virtual address space and that address space is therefor unavailable to Windows. Remapping maps the physical memory it would have mapped to that virtual address range to virtual addresses at the top of the address space the chipset supports so you can then access all of your physical memory.


----------



## GeneO

Here is a diagram I once made on how I believe it works. Without the remapping the physical to virtual mapping is one to one contiguous so you loos that space.

An I could be wrong about the introduction of the remapping option in the BIOS. It seems like it was always there but I could be mistaken. When it wasn't I would have expected it would have been enabled by default.

BIOS Remapping.pdf 94k .pdf file


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Here is a diagram I once made on how I believe it works. Without the remapping the physical to virtual mapping is one to one contiguous so you loos that space.
> An I could be wrong about the introduction of the remapping option in the BIOS. It seems like it was always there but I could be mistaken. When it wasn't I would have expected it would have been enabled by default.
> 
> BIOS Remapping.pdf 94k .pdf file


Thanks. Maybe because you ahve the PRO version of my board which is why you had that feature even with the initial BIOS revision for your board? I don't know but I'm 100% sure that initially my board's BIOS didn't have that but then again I'm also not sure if it was enabled y default.

So in general, it is recommended to keep that enabled, right?


----------



## GeneO

Yes, correct.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Yes, correct.


Can you explain, in detail, the drawing that you've uploaded? What is virtual address space?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> On a 32-bit Microsoft Windows installation, by default, only 2 GB are made available to processes for their own use. The other 2GB are used by the operating system. On later 32-bit editions of Microsoft Windows it is possible to extend the user-mode virtual address space to 3 GB while only 1 GB is left for kernel-mode virtual address space by marking the programs as IMAGE_FILE_LARGE_ADDRESS_AWARE and enabling the /3GB switch in the boot.ini file.
> 
> On 64-bit Microsoft Windows, processes running 32-bit executables that were linked with the /LARGEADDRESSAWARE:YES option have access to 4 GB of virtual address space; without that option they are limited to 2GB. By default, 64-bit processes have 8TB of user-mode virtual address space; Linking with /LARGEADDRESSAWARE:NO artificially limits the user-mode virtual address space to 2 GB.
> 
> Allocating memory via system calls such as C's malloc implicitly maps bytes of the page file into the VAS. However, a process can also explicitly map file bytes.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virtual_address_space

Note that this can include Pagefile......


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Can you explain, in detail, the drawing that you've uploaded? What is virtual address space?


The operating system deals with virtual addresses. These are translated to physical addresses by the hardware (physical RAM, etc). You have the appearance of a contiguous address space that may be mapped non-contiguously to hardware addresses. The wikipedia reference is a good one.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> On a 32-bit Microsoft Windows installation, by default, only 2 GB are made available to processes for their own use. The other 2GB are used by the operating system. On later 32-bit editions of Microsoft Windows it is possible to extend the user-mode virtual address space to 3 GB while only 1 GB is left for kernel-mode virtual address space by marking the programs as IMAGE_FILE_LARGE_ADDRESS_AWARE and enabling the /3GB switch in the boot.ini file.
> On 64-bit Microsoft Windows, processes running 32-bit executables that were linked with the /LARGEADDRESSAWARE:YES option have access to 4 GB of virtual address space; without that option they are limited to 2GB. By default, 64-bit processes have 8TB of user-mode virtual address space; Linking with /LARGEADDRESSAWARE:NO artificially limits the user-mode virtual address space to 2 GB.
> Allocating memory via system calls such as C's malloc implicitly maps bytes of the page file into the VAS. However, a process can also explicitly map file bytes.
> 
> 
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virtual_address_space
> Note that this can include Pagefile......
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> The operating system deals with virtual addresses. These are translated to physical addresses by the hardware (physical RAM, etc). You have the appearance of a contiguous address space that may be mapped non-contiguously to hardware addresses. The wikipedia reference is a good one.


Thanks! So basically what situation would make it necessary to disable that memory remap feature of the BIOS?


----------



## alancsalt

That I don't know. Can't think of a situation, but the fact the option exists would seem to indicate it's possible.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks! So basically what situation would make it necessary to disable that memory remap feature of the BIOS?


I can't imagine any


----------



## alancsalt

Did a Google search...You might disable it to set up a ramdisk.

Also when installing hardware that wants to use system memory.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Did a Google search...You might disable it to set up a ramdisk.
> Also when installing hardware that wants to use system memory.


Hmmmm, but I can setup my RAMDisk without any problems whether it is enabled or disabled. How does that connect to RAMDisk?

So when I install hardware I should disable it first then enable it after? Weird.


----------



## alancsalt

That's not what I'm saying.

If you needed to do it, I expect it would be in the instructions for whatever disabling is needed for. It is an obscure setting not worth worrying about as far as I can tell.

Just leave it enabled, unless instructions for something you are installing or fixing say to disable.

Try Googling it if you're really interested.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Well I'm in a bit of a jam this time guys. Long story short, I had a super stable system with a 4.7 OC using a GTX 480 and I upgraded to a 7870 and it all went down hill from there. I attempted to flash my BIOS to the latest version on my P8Z68-V Gen3 and everything seemed to flash just fine but when I go into the BIOS for the first time after flashing, I save changes/reset and my system just sits there with fans running without doing squat!! I have to clear CMOS just to get back into my BIOS. The only change I'm trying to make is SATA changed to RAID because I use Intel SRT. Even only changing that the system still just sits there forever with fans running and no video.

Any insight, I'm really stumped on this one guys

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Well it looks like there was a special way to update the latest BIOS for people using Intel RST. Whoopsie on my part. Looks like I'm doing a fresh install


----------



## Jayjr1105

Edit: problem solved, I had to use the freeDOS utility to reflash the current BIOS and its working fine now.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Sorry to hijack the thread like this but it appears to be a well known issue according to Asus ROG forums... A lot of people who flashed the BIOS on several different P67/Z68/Z77 Boards are running into a problem where you cant boot the system with RAM speed higher than 1333 and the Turbo multi has disappeared. Anyone else ever hear of or experience this?

Source


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Sorry to hijack the thread like this but it appears to be a well known issue according to Asus ROG forums... A lot of people who flashed the BIOS on several different P67/Z68/Z77 Boards are running into a problem where you cant boot the system with RAM speed higher than 1333 and the Turbo multi has disappeared. Anyone else ever hear of or experience this?
> Source


Don't worry about hijacking this thread because this thread is basically a mini forum for owners of a P8P67/P8Z68 board. So, it's not possible to hijack it.

Anyway, I haven't run into this problem before and I haven't heard of it yet either, nor can I even think of any good possible causes. Although, I can think of dumb possible causes (but I'm probably being my own worst critic):


The memory may not be truly 100% compatible somehow.
The memory may be in the wrong slots (on the P8P67/P8Z68 boards, 2 sticks have to go in the blue slots)

However, I have my doubts that these are possible causes.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Don't worry about hijacking this thread because this thread is basically a mini forum for owners of a P8P67/P8Z68 board. So, it's not possible to hijack it.
> 
> Anyway, I haven't run into this problem before and I haven't heard of it yet either, nor can I even think of any good possible causes. Although, I can think of _dumb_ possible causes (but I'm probably being my own worst critic):
> 
> The memory may not be truly 100% compatible somehow.
> The memory may be in the wrong slots (on the P8P67/P8Z68 boards, 2 sticks have to go in the blue slots)
> 
> However, I have my doubts that these are possible causes.


Yeah, I'm pretty sure RAM is okay and it is in the correct slots, It was perfectly fine before the flash. There were a couple other users in the Asus forums reporting the exact same symptoms after what seemed to be a successful BIOS update/flash (missing turbo multi, system wont post with RAM higher than 1333 and in some cases a few other OC options completely missing)

I have downloaded the BIOS from different mirrors over a non-wifi connection, tried flashing 3 different times with same results. BIOS seems to be badly bugged or corrupt. If only you could flash to an older BIOS file this wouldn't even be an issue but *all* Asus methods of flashing forbid going to an outdated version. It's not like I have tri-SLI 680's or something, I can live with a stock 2500K until this debacle is resolved but it sure is annoying and time consuming.

My options at this point are... Bark someone's ear off tomorrow morning at Asus, buy the BIOS chip for my board for $15, wait for a fixed BIOS to be released, or the dreaded RMA.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Yeah, I'm pretty sure RAM is okay and it is in the correct slots, It was perfectly fine before the flash. There were a couple other users in the Asus forums reporting the exact same symptoms after what seemed to be a successful BIOS update/flash (missing turbo multi, system wont post with RAM higher than 1333 and in some cases a few other OC options completely missing)
> I have downloaded the BIOS from different mirrors over a non-wifi connection, tried flashing 3 different times with same results. BIOS seems to be badly bugged or corrupt. If only you could flash to an older BIOS file this wouldn't even be an issue but *all* Asus methods of flashing forbid going to an outdated version. It's not like I have tri-SLI 680's or something, I can live with a stock 2500K until this debacle is resolved but it sure is annoying and time consuming.
> My options at this point are... Bark someone's ear off tomorrow morning at Asus, buy the BIOS chip for my board for $15, wait for a fixed BIOS to be released, or the dreaded RMA.


Oh god I would love to be able to talk to JJ at ASUS about this and be like, "You guys put tons of effort into making your boards really awesome, so why do you make it impossible to flash the BIOS back to an older or previous version?"


----------



## Jayjr1105

I wonder if these are legit. Just might be worth paying $15 and be done with it. I just want to be assured they are an almost "certain fix"


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Yeah, I'm pretty sure RAM is okay and it is in the correct slots, It was perfectly fine before the flash. There were a couple other users in the Asus forums reporting the exact same symptoms after what seemed to be a successful BIOS update/flash (missing turbo multi, system wont post with RAM higher than 1333 and in some cases a few other OC options completely missing)
> I have downloaded the BIOS from different mirrors over a non-wifi connection, tried flashing 3 different times with same results. BIOS seems to be badly bugged or corrupt. If only you could flash to an older BIOS file this wouldn't even be an issue but *all* Asus methods of flashing forbid going to an outdated version. It's not like I have tri-SLI 680's or something, I can live with a stock 2500K until this debacle is resolved but it sure is annoying and time consuming.
> My options at this point are... Bark someone's ear off tomorrow morning at Asus, buy the BIOS chip for my board for $15, wait for a fixed BIOS to be released, or the dreaded RMA.


Is this specifically for the latest BIOS (3402) of our board? Well, I can boot my RAM at 1600. What do you mean by "turbo multi missing"?


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is this specifically for the latest BIOS (3402) of our board? Well, I can boot my RAM at 1600. What do you mean by "turbo multi missing"?


Yes 3402 and turbo multiplier missing means you can't overclock. It's acting as if I don't have a K series CPU. Just google "Asus turbo multiplier missing" and you'll see its a common issue after what appeared to be a successful BIOS flash. Others are missing some other OC settings as well like PLL voltage, etc. Luckily by looking up the issue I just toned my RAM (normally 1600 Mhz) down to 1333 and left everything else alone and I'm now able to boot into the system just without my 4.7 overclock


----------



## Jayjr1105

So, spoke with Asus support today and they revealed a way to go back to an older BIOS...
Quote:


> 1. Install Asus Update.
> 
> 2. In the Options menu of Asus Update, check the box "BIOS Downgradable" then hit Next.
> 
> 3. Download any BIOS from http://support.asus.com/download%20for%20the%20motherboard%20you%20are%20flashing.
> 
> 4. Unzip the file, run Asus Update and select "Update BIOS from File".
> 
> 5. Browse to the .ROM file and select open. Then hit the flash key.
> 
> Without the BIOS Downgradable checked you will see an error that says your current BIOS image is newer than the one you are trying to flash. I hope this helps some of you. We also have some BIOS's on our website that say you cannot downgrade the BIOS once you flash it.


I tried this but got an error saying "Sorry, this application only supports Asus motherboards".... Seriously Asus!???

I'm downloading the full AI suite atm and I'll try that version, The Asus update version I have now was just downloaded from Softpedia because I couldn't find it at first on Asus' website. If this doesn't work I'll either have to RMA or purchase one of the BIOS chips for $14.99. I may just opt for the BIOS chip just to avoid any downtime.


----------



## Jayjr1105

So I shot a fresh install of W7 on a spare hard drive I had lying around and I got the Asus update from the AI suite to run and install the older BIOS however I'm still missing turbo multi in the BIOS!!!??? Am I missing something simple??? I'm losing my mind over this!


----------



## TwoCables

Can you take a screenshot of what you're seeing? Press F12 while a USB flash drive is connected.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Can you take a screenshot of what you're seeing? Press F12 while a USB flash drive is connected.


Here is what it *should* look like...


Here is my current BIOS screen shot...

Notice I am missing *three* options (Turbo Ratio, By All Cores, And Internal PLL)

BTW, I have "successfully" flashed each version of the BIOS with the same result each time (missing the 3 settings). For some reason I cannot flash to the original 0301 BIOS file but the other 3 newer files will flash with the Asus update tool from windows. I even used the DOS update method thinking it would be better... I think I simply have a fried BIOS chip. Probably going to order one tonight *sigh*


----------



## Jayjr1105

So I found an Asus forum where a moderator said once a BIOS is flashed bad it stays bad. When you flash a BIOS on an Asus board it doesn't erase the previous ROM and load an whole new one. It simply changes a few things, so I'm pretty much limited to RMA or order a new BIOS chip (which I will be doing). $24 is worth zero downtime. My system boots, just can't overclock.

He said something interesting about how newer BIOS versions have 2 sets of code, one for SB and one for IB and it can really mess things up. Probably why I can't flash the original 0301 ROM which probably only had SB code.

Here is his post. He was also ticked at some guy complaining.
Quote:


> No, you do not understand what is happening here.
> You are talking about a "normal" bios
> The 3XXX bios are not normal
> After flashing you have TWO CPU microcode loaded at same time - Ivy Bridge and SandyBridge
> You are also UPGRADING not UPDATING the Intel MEI from version 7 to version 8 firmware - but ONLY for Ivy Bridge
> And since ASUS never mentions what a new bios is doing, it also updates other OROMS or UEFI features we cant even know about. And once a bios is flashed bad - it STAYS BAD!
> 
> If you want to argue with me, then I am done here
> I didnt type all that stuff just for you to ignore it.
> Your safest option now is buy a new chip from ASUS
> ASUS bios are locked, so to downgrade you need a flashing system that first erases the chip then writes the older bios.
> If it fails then you have a bricked mobo.


Again sorry for hijacking the thread, I hope others read this and learn what rule I should have gone by......... If it's not broke, don't fix it!


----------



## error-id10t

Seeing as you're going to get a new chip anyhow, have you tried this?

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629404

This did work pre-3xxx firmware, I used it when I wanted to go back from 0902 to 0706. Either way, if you feel like playing with what appears to be a dead chip that you'll replace anyhow, give it a go.

BTW: which forum are you quoting from?


----------



## Jayjr1105

Here is the forum I quoted from...
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=1&model=P8P67&id=20120531121014959&page=1&SLanguage=en-us


----------



## alancsalt

That bios pic, is it normally like that for non-K chips?


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That bios pic, is it normally like that for non-K chips?


Not sure, never owned one. My guess would be no. Even with a non K chip you should be able to mess with the turbo multiplier, just not turn it past 37. I truly believe the problem lies within that quote I posted from the Asus forum. I ordered the new chip anyways. I didn't specify which BIOS version I wanted when I ordered it so I assume I will be getting the most recent 3304. I just hope it's just as stable with my 4.7 oc.

Here was my original SS from when I had a stable 20 hour 4.7 run...


Looks like I should have shopped around first for a BIOS chip. My total with Asus was $25 with no returns allowed. $16 here on eBay with free shipping and returns accepted. Silly Asus


----------



## paradoxum

The manual says putting a IEEE 1394 cable into a USB header and vice versa on the mobo will damage it - can anyone explain in what way it will damage it, or if it even will? I had something plugged in the wrong header for like 6 months and no problems so far but just wanted to check I haven't done any permanent damage.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> The manual says putting a IEEE 1394 cable into a USB header and vice versa on the mobo will damage it - can anyone explain in what way it will damage it, or if it even will? I had something plugged in the wrong header for like 6 months and no problems so far but just wanted to check I haven't done any permanent damage.


You would have known after 6 minutes if you did any damage. As long as you corrected the problem I don't see an issue. Run some checks on your hardware that was connected, as long as everything works fine, you were lucky.


----------



## ViTosS

Anyone using the last bios? Are still there problems with tha BIOS? I heard some people saying problems and didn't upgrade. But I'm using 2303 and have problems to make SLI work


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> You would have known after 6 minutes if you did any damage. As long as you corrected the problem I don't see an issue. Run some checks on your hardware that was connected, as long as everything works fine, you were lucky.


Alright, sure. But can anyone explain, technically, WHY damage would be caused? incorrect voltage being sent over the wrong pins or something?


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> Alright, sure. But can anyone explain, technically, WHY damage would be caused? incorrect voltage being sent over the wrong pins or something?


Yes, if you look at the manual the wiring to the headers are different and in some cases can short out your plugged in hardware or the motherboard itself. I seriously do not know why any manufacturer uses a connector that looks almost identical but is wired differently. Some of your connections may draw power to run them and setup wrong can fry an expensive piece of hardware.


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Yes, if you look at the manual the wiring to the headers are different and in some cases can short out your plugged in hardware or the motherboard itself. I seriously do not know why any manufacturer uses a connector that looks almost identical but is wired differently. Some of your connections may draw power to run them and setup wrong can fry an expensive piece of hardware.


I see, thanks for the explaination.


----------



## awdrifter

I would like to join this club. I bought a Asus P8Z68-M Pro from an OCN member. This board is working great so far, I got my 2600k to 4.6ghz without issue.


Edit: Looks like my mobo is not on the list that qualifies for this club.


----------



## ViTosS

Hey guys is there anyone with Asus P8P67 Pro using the last BIOS without problems? This one: P8P67 PRO BIOS 3207


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awdrifter*
> 
> I would like to join this club. I bought a Asus P8Z68-M Pro from an OCN member. This board is working great so far, I got my 2600k to 4.6ghz without issue.
> 
> Edit: Looks like my mobo is not on the list that qualifies for this club.


I think it qualifies. It is a P8Z68 type board. I had/have one of those boards too for my 2500K which I ran/run 24/7 at 4.6GHZ. I have that in my kids gaming PC now. Good board. I could get the 2500K to 5GHZ on it (not stable though).

My new gaming system I use has a P8Z68-V/Gen3 using a 3770K at 4.6GHZ for 24/7. Another good board. Both my chips were/are just "OK" though compared to what some of the others have been able to do with their processor OCs. But overall I have been very happy with both the boards and chips! Very good and fast game-playing rigs! I expect you will enjoy your board and 2600K too.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I think it qualifies. It is a P8Z68 type board. I had/have one of those boards too for my 2500K which I ran/run 24/7 at 4.6GHZ. I have that in my kids gaming PC now. Good board. I could get the 2500K to 5GHZ on it (not stable though).
> My new gaming system I use has a P8Z68-V/Gen3 using a 3770K at 4.6GHZ for 24/7. Another good board. Both my chips were/are just "OK" though compared to what some of the others have been able to do with their processor OCs. But overall I have been very happy with both the boards and chips! Very good and fast game-playing rigs! I expect you will enjoy your board and 2600K too.


You OCd that 3770K with the Z68 board??? Most cant.


----------



## Erper

hi guys...

i have quick question...
how come when speedstep is enabled cpu speed is not dropping??
im kinda stuck on 4.5 all the time


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> hi guys...
> 
> i have quick question...
> how come when speedstep is enabled cpu speed is not dropping??
> im kinda stuck on 4.5 all the time


Likely another setting in the EFI that has it shut off. Have you disabled all C-states by chance? Is your windows power setting set to High Performance?


----------



## Erper




----------



## paradoxum

P8P67 Pro Drivers:

*Intel have new ethernet / lan drivers: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=18713*

Anything newer than v2.0.32.0 for NEC Electronics - USB 3.0 Host Controller Driver?

Or the Atheros Bluetooth Driver V7.2.0.65?
It looks like there might be on their website but I can't seem to download anything.
http://www.atheros.cz/atheros-bluetooth-drivers.php


----------



## gaul

anyone have link downgrade BIOS P8P67Pro rev 3.1 ?
im with 3207 (newest) got problem PCIX read / run 8x only

8x ( only )









this link http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629404, not working to my mobo









AFUWINx64 says *" BIOS does not support AFU "*


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> You OCd that 3770K with the Z68 board??? Most cant.


I thought they were supposed to support the 3570K and 3770K with a BIOS update. My Z68 does and it works fine and does OC enough. I still sometimes wonder though if a Z77 board would do any better OC, but I expect it would be the same as it has a lot to do with the Chip. I was able to get my 2500K to 4.6GHZ 24/7 and 5GHZ (unstable) on both the Asus P8Z68-M Pro and the Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3, so both boards did the same with that same chip. So I bet it would matter little if I got a Z77 board as far as OCing this 3770K chip I now own.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> You OCd that 3770K with the Z68 board??? Most cant.


Probably Asus already provide proper BIOS support.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I thought they were supposed to support the 3570K and 3770K with a BIOS update. My Z68 does and it works fine and does OC enough. I still sometimes wonder though if a Z77 board would do any better OC, but I expect it would be the same as it has a lot to do with the Chip. I was able to get my 2500K to 4.6GHZ 24/7 and 5GHZ (unstable) on both the Asus P8Z68-M Pro and the Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3, so both boards did the same with that same chip. So I bet it would matter little if I got a Z77 board as far as OCing this 3770K chip I now own.


Please post link to CPU-Z validation page.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Probably Asus already provide proper BIOS support.
> Please post link to CPU-Z validation page.


Sure. Here is my current 3770K at 4.6GHZ which is what I use 24/7. I got it to 4.7GHZ too, but did not like temps in high 90's. Also too much voltage and temps for 4.8GHZ with this chip.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2448023

ID : 2448023
Submitted by PCWargamer | Mon, 23 Jul 2012 07:11:49 +0200 | Validated by CPU-Z 1.61

I think most of the major boards makers have BIOS support for their Z68s now. Asus does for sure. My current BIOS is 3201 and it supports the IB.


----------



## kizwan

Thanks. This will clear things up.


----------



## fommof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> hi guys...
> i have quick question...
> how come when speedstep is enabled cpu speed is not dropping??
> im kinda stuck on 4.5 all the time


Make sure the C1E is set to "Enabled" (not Auto).


----------



## Erper

it is enabled...


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> it is enabled...


I see that you got it sorted clearly you are running at x16 and 1.016 vcore in your screen shot. Speed step is enabled by default so you can always get back there by setting optimized defaults in the EFI. Using manual voltage and turning off C-States can disable it from working. Windows power settings can also have an effect especially when enabling EPU in the EFI so sometimes it's hard to get to the bottom line why it's not working for folks. In any case I'm glad it's working for ya now. Enjoy


----------



## fommof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> it is enabled...


Sorry mate, i've missed your last (up to that time) post (#7356).

Glad you sorted it out.


----------



## Mackem

Having massive trouble with my RAM on my P8Z68-V/GEN3. If anyone can help, please take a look at this thread where it's more documented:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=107090

Thanks.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> Having massive trouble with my RAM on my P8Z68-V/GEN3. If anyone can help, please take a look at this thread where it's more documented:
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=107090
> Thanks.


It was your BIOS flash. I did the same thing last week. Updated my BIOS and my system was unstable with RAM any higher than 1333... I was also missing a few options under the AI tweaker menu. Can you take a couple SS of your AI Tweaker menu with F12 and post them here?


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I see that you got it sorted clearly you are running at x16 and 1.016 vcore in your screen shot. Speed step is enabled by default so you can always get back there by setting optimized defaults in the EFI. Using manual voltage and turning off C-States can disable it from working. Windows power settings can also have an effect especially when enabling EPU in the EFI so sometimes it's hard to get to the bottom line why it's not working for folks. In any case I'm glad it's working for ya now. Enjoy


i had to open H50 from cpu, change paste, reseat it so he could read temps properly and and sort vcore

But its kinda weird thing that different programs are showing different temps and clocks on cpu....
even before cleaning, bios was showing 33 temp comparing to realtemp in win where it was 43-45...

EDIT:

Ive done some tests again for 4.8GHZ
now mu question is...
if temps are too high on core 2-3 does that means that termal paste is not on them...
also
my offset is set to 0.040...
should i lower it...



TEST @4.5GHz

lower temp


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> i had to open H50 from cpu, change paste, reseat it so he could read temps properly and and sort vcore
> 
> But its kinda weird thing that different programs are showing different temps and clocks on cpu....
> even before cleaning, bios was showing 33 temp comparing to realtemp in win where it was 43-45...
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Ive done some tests again for 4.8GHZ
> now mu question is...
> if temps are too high on core 2-3 does that means that termal paste is not on them...
> also
> my offset is set to 0.040...
> should i lower it...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TEST @4.5GHz
> 
> lower temp


+

Your temps are on the edge meaning you don't want them any higher for any extended period of time.

Ranging from core to core is common and in your case I'd say it's not due to the mount of your water block.

Real Temp and Core Temp are trusted apps and both are reporting almost identical readings the third app there I'm not familiar with.

I would head the highest temp reported of any of the cores at any given time but understand your proc has a thermal throttle if it exceeds the limit Intel has set your proc will throttle back and or shut down to protect it self.

It's hard to say if +0.040 offset is to high it depends on your other settings in the EFI it would be easy for me to know if you had taken a screenshots while your system was under 100% load then I could have seen what the vcore was at the time. It's not to high if that what it takes to pass IBT you can always run it again with a lower offset to see if you can pass the test. I recommend running with higher memory usage (maximum) and at least 20 passes to consider your self thermally stable.


----------



## Erper

ok...
what ive tried is:
if i reduce current capability to 130% its not passing windows logo
if if leave CC to 140% and reduce offset to 0.035 same thing
if i put vcore manualy to 1.425 same thing
if i put vcore to 1.440 its booting up...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> But its kinda weird thing that different programs are showing different temps and clocks on cpu....
> even before cleaning, bios was showing 33 temp comparing to realtemp in win where it was 43-45...


Ever since duo-cores came in temps have not been measured directly, but inferred from distance to throttling. As far as Intel is concerned this is near enough. As a result no two temp programs are going to give you exact temps, and the temps at the top of the scale will be more accurate than lower temps. Maybe you could get truly accurate temps by using a probe, but the temps that progs give you are considered "near enough"

If you are particularly interested in this "Uncle Web" who made RealTemp explains it in this thread at Xtremesystems

Also see Chicken Inferno's post on The Truth about Temperatures and Voltages


----------



## TwoCables

In other words, Intel did not design these temp sensors for us to use as thermometers. They were only for the CPU's eyes only and therefore are only accurate in the higher ranges (like above 50°C). So, Intel essentially left us with no choice but to use what I consider to be rather crude methods of monitoring temperatures.

However, the difference between BIOS and Windows is another thing because the state of the CPU is different in the BIOS than it is in Windows.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> It was your BIOS flash. I did the same thing last week. Updated my BIOS and my system was unstable with RAM any higher than 1333... I was also missing a few options under the AI tweaker menu. Can you take a couple SS of your AI Tweaker menu with F12 and post them here?


Which BIOS did you use which caused the problem?


----------



## kizwan

I want to add little bit regarding CPU temp. CPU use Digital Thermal Sensor (DTS) to report core temperature. It is an offset from TJMax. TJMax is the maximum temperature before CPU protection mechanism kicked in, e.g. throttling. If CPU temp reached approximately 130C, it will trigger another signal which will shutdown the CPU to prevent catastrophic failure. Usually system designer will set this trip point lower, so it will shutdown earlier than that. For example TJMax = 98C, if CPU temp is 90C, that means it's 8C (DTS) away from TJMax. It's all about the distance between the core temp & TJMax.

Tj = DTS + TjMax(register)
* Tj is CPU temperature.
* DTS is read as negative number, e.g Tj = -8C + 98C = 90C

This is how software like RealTemp & Core Temp report CPU temperature.


----------



## Erper

So if those programs are reporting 90c on cpu its still safe temp but ib longer period will only reduce life of cpu...
Nice...
Ill post settings later today to see what do u think where could i squeze extra bit from it to reduce temp and increase speed...
Regards


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> So if those programs are reporting 90c on cpu its still safe temp but ib longer period will only reduce life of cpu...
> Nice...
> Ill post settings later today to see what do u think where could i squeze extra bit from it to reduce temp and increase speed...
> Regards


Bottom line higher vcore = higher temps have you tried lowering CPU PLL from the default 1.8 to say 1.6? It's a known tweak for lowering temps and in some cases the ability to lower Vcore and still be stable. A word of caution however do run some benchmarks (3DM11) to fine tune the pLL adjustments although the differences are minute I think it's an important step. I have seen reduced performance at the same core clock when setting CPU PLL to low. My sweet spot seems to be 1.65v on the V-Pro but YMMV.


----------



## Erper

EDIT:

Ive reduced Capability to 130%
and changed vcore from offset to 1.38..
so far i have 5c lower temp
also ive changed my cpu pll to 1.65

Before changing


After Chaniging


----------



## alw71

I dont mean to change the subject but can anyone tell me what Ai suite I should use? I have a copy with my motherboard but should i get the latest version?
One other thing is that i have Corsair Vengeance Memory 1666 or whatever do i have to change a setting in the Bios to get it at the higher frequency or whatever it is.
THanks for not stepping by this post .


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71*
> 
> I dont mean to change the subject but can anyone tell me what Ai suite I should use? I have a copy with my motherboard but should i get the latest version?
> One other thing is that i have Corsair Vengeance Memory 1666 or whatever do i have to change a setting in the Bios to get it at the higher frequency or whatever it is.
> THanks for not stepping by this post .


you dont OC you rig in windows, only bios to be stable... because as soon you reinstall win you will loose all those settings...
and one more thing
you dont want to OC you memory for more than it is


----------



## alw71

You miss understand me. I'm not trying to overclock. i just need to know if it will work at the higher settings (memory) straight out of the box at 1600 or is it just set t to 1333 and i have to change a setting to make it work . I heard you have to thats all.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71*
> 
> You miss understand me. I'm not trying to overclock. i just need to know if it will work at the higher settings (memory) straight out of the box at 1600 or is it just set t to 1333 and i have to change a setting to make it work . I heard you have to thats all.


You're right that it may not start out at 1600 MHz because the CPU's native support is DDR3 1066/1333. The best thing to do is check in the UEFI BIOS what it is initially set to. If it's at 1333 MHz, then all you'll have to do is change it to 1600 MHz. I mean, don't install Ai Suite just for this.

Besides, most of us don't even have it installed. It's just not needed.


----------



## alw71

The reason i ask about this is becasue theres always these services using the cpu up and im not even doing anything.
What are the drivers i need then? Just all the drivers you get in the first part of the cd and not that manager thing?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71*
> 
> The reason i ask about this is becasue theres always these services using the cpu up and im not even doing anything.
> What are the drivers i need then? Just all the drivers you get in the first part of the cd and not that manager thing?


If you're talking about Intel Management Engine, most people don't need it, so I recommend not installing it.

Which services are using the CPU?

Regarding the drivers: don't install anything you don't need.


----------



## alw71

aaHMSvc.exe is always ticking away atexcomSvc.exe also seems to be up ther all the time either using 1 or 2 percent.
seems even when I'm doing nothing theres lots of activity on my machine.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71*
> 
> aaHMSvc.exe is always ticking away atexcomSvc.exe also seems to be up ther all the time either using 1 or 2 percent.
> seems even when I'm doing nothing theres lots of activity on my machine.


I can't find any information at all on atexcomSvc.exe, but aaHMSvc.exe is a part of Ai Suite. If you don't want it running, then the only way to get rid of it is to uninstall Ai Suite.

Is that 1 or 2 percent noticeable?


----------



## alw71

Sorry its Atkexcom and its part of the suite. I'm just going to uninstall this suite and any overclocking that i might make in the future can be done through the bios i suppose. I dont know what the point of this suite is tbh.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Ever since duo-cores came in temps have not been measured directly, but inferred from distance to throttling. As far as Intel is concerned this is near enough. As a result no two temp programs are going to give you exact temps, and the temps at the top of the scale will be more accurate than lower temps. Maybe you could get truly accurate temps by using a probe, but the temps that progs give you are considered "near enough"
> If you are particularly interested in this "Uncle Web" who made RealTemp explains it in this thread at Xtremesystems
> Also see Chicken Inferno's post on The Truth about Temperatures and Voltages


so basically all new cpu temps are not shown correctly by programs and most of them make difference of 10C???


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71*
> 
> Sorry its Atkexcom and its part of the suite. I'm just going to uninstall this suite and any overclocking that i might make in the future can be done through the bios i suppose. I dont know what the point of this suite is tbh.


In my opinion, I feel that it's for people who want to do this alone instead of coming to places like Overclock.net.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> so basically all new cpu temps are not shown correctly by programs and most of them make difference of 10C???


The closer to tjmax the "more accurate'.... idle temperatures least accurate with some defying the laws of physics..... There can be other glitches too like "stuck" sensors..

10C sounds a bit extreme.... Is that the variation you have?


----------



## TwoCables

A difference of 10°C sounds to me like the Core2 series.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> A difference of 10°C sounds to me like the Core2 series.


My last CPU was an e8400 and was notorious for showing incorrect temps.


----------



## destrekor

[long-winded] Question:

So, I have this memory Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C 2x4GB 9-9-9-24-2T 1.5V (XMP DDR3-1600)
This particular memory is NOT on the QVL - the only Corsair DDR3-1600 memory is a 1.65V kit.

Since October 2011, I have been running this memory kit in my P8Z68 Deluxe, alongside my i7 2600K (which, up until recently, was at 4.8GHz).
BF3 absolutely loved this - every game I've tried has loved it (sometimes giving a mild headache thanks to the 560 Ti 2GB SLI / [2D] Surround setup)...

But I've been throwing every idea at the wall now that, as of mid-June, BF3 no longer plays nice with the rest of the kids. In fact, it hates everything about the playground at this point it seems.
I've upgraded to BIOS 3203, am currently running at 4.4GHz (with all the settings that previously allowed me to run stable at 4.8GHz), absolutely went insane with driver configurations, downgrades, upgrades, sidegrades, clean boots, disabling services, oh my.

I'm looking for a little assurance: my memory isn't to blame, right? (just by nature of it not being QVL)
BTW: It was tested to be OK in Memtest86 about a week ago.

I'd like to avoid 1.65V - is there anything that, all of a sudden, 1.5V isn't enough for this supposedly 1.5V-ready RAM? Might it need more juice? (1.55V wasn't preventing BF3 from hard-locking the system, mind you... didn't try 1.65V, however).

Oh, probably should have covered that: BF3 completely hard-locks, no visible errors.
On occasion, I can dig up logs that show a BCCode 117 (which is TDR). And yes, I've tried a few different Nvidia drivers (among a hoarde of other drivers tested or uninstalled, etc)

Now moving beyond memory - might there be a magic voltage that needs adjusted?
Would anything else lacking, in that regard, still lead to either no errors, or a 117 error (and still, I don't see any BSODs)?
I tried a VCCIO as high as 1.15V or thereabouts, but everything else has been left to Auto.


----------



## ramman949

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> [long-winded] Question:
> So, I have this memory Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C 2x4GB 9-9-9-24-2T 1.5V (XMP DDR3-1600)
> This particular memory is NOT on the QVL - the only Corsair DDR3-1600 memory is a 1.65V kit.
> Since October 2011, I have been running this memory kit in my P8Z68 Deluxe, alongside my i7 2600K (which, up until recently, was at 4.8GHz).
> BF3 absolutely loved this - every game I've tried has loved it (sometimes giving a mild headache thanks to the 560 Ti 2GB SLI / [2D] Surround setup)...
> But I've been throwing every idea at the wall now that, as of mid-June, BF3 no longer plays nice with the rest of the kids. In fact, it hates everything about the playground at this point it seems.
> I've upgraded to BIOS 3203, am currently running at 4.4GHz (with all the settings that previously allowed me to run stable at 4.8GHz), absolutely went insane with driver configurations, downgrades, upgrades, sidegrades, clean boots, disabling services, oh my.
> I'm looking for a little assurance: my memory isn't to blame, right? (just by nature of it not being QVL)
> BTW: It was tested to be OK in Memtest86 about a week ago.
> I'd like to avoid 1.65V - is there anything that, all of a sudden, 1.5V isn't enough for this supposedly 1.5V-ready RAM? Might it need more juice? (1.55V wasn't preventing BF3 from hard-locking the system, mind you... didn't try 1.65V, however).
> Oh, probably should have covered that: BF3 completely hard-locks, no visible errors.
> On occasion, I can dig up logs that show a BCCode 117 (which is TDR). And yes, I've tried a few different Nvidia drivers (among a hoarde of other drivers tested or uninstalled, etc)
> Now moving beyond memory - might there be a magic voltage that needs adjusted?
> Would anything else lacking, in that regard, still lead to either no errors, or a 117 error (and still, I don't see any BSODs)?
> I tried a VCCIO as high as 1.15V or thereabouts, but everything else has been left to Auto.


I have almost the exact same ram. But mine is CMX... Not CMZ. Mine has to be set to 1.65 to run. At any rate, I have the EXACT same problem man. BF3 freezes at random on me too. It can take 10 minutes or 2 hours. Or I can go all night with no issues. I have the P8P67 PRO version 1 with a I7 2600k, @ 4.5 all the time. My ram is at 1600 @ 1.65 and my video card is the asus GTX 570.

It seems that my card has issues with being under volted from what I have found on the internet. I used MSI after burner to bump my video cards voltage up some and it seems to have stopped. Others have told me this is a classic sign of a weak PSU. However my PSU has AMP rating of 53 and my card need 38 so Im not so sure its my PSU.

I know Bf3 does NOT like overclocking, so I might run my pc at stock speeds to see if that helps too. But one thing is for sure. You are not alone. It happens to a lot of us. It could very well be a buggy game. I mean, if it didnt before and now it is, either something on your end changed, or the update to the game is causing it.

Im starting to think its BF3 since all my other game run fine.

good luck.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> A difference of 10°C sounds to me like the Core2 series.


I know...
Ive searched for oced 2500k temps on 4.5 or 4.8 and range is between 31-39(40)c...


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> I know...
> Ive searched for oced 2500k temps on 4.5 or 4.8 and range is between 31-39(40)c...


For idle, thats what i get on 4.5GHz. I think around 35c mark. Dont remember.


----------



## Erper

again me...
quick question...
does anyone have any kind of problems after updating bios to latest version...

reason why im asking is next one...

i have my 2x4Gb Corsair where ive added this memory

it seems that it wont work together OCed


----------



## destrekor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramman949*
> 
> I have almost the exact same ram. But mine is CMX... Not CMZ. Mine has to be set to 1.65 to run. At any rate, I have the EXACT same problem man. BF3 freezes at random on me too. It can take 10 minutes or 2 hours. Or I can go all night with no issues. I have the P8P67 PRO version 1 with a I7 2600k, @ 4.5 all the time. My ram is at 1600 @ 1.65 and my video card is the asus GTX 570.
> It seems that my card has issues with being under volted from what I have found on the internet. I used MSI after burner to bump my video cards voltage up some and it seems to have stopped. Others have told me this is a classic sign of a weak PSU. However my PSU has AMP rating of 53 and my card need 38 so Im not so sure its my PSU.
> I know Bf3 does NOT like overclocking, so I might run my pc at stock speeds to see if that helps too. But one thing is for sure. You are not alone. It happens to a lot of us. It could very well be a buggy game. I mean, if it didnt before and now it is, either something on your end changed, or the update to the game is causing it.
> Im starting to think its BF3 since all my other game run fine.
> good luck.


I had tried so many things, it didn't seem like upping the GPU voltage had helped before - but it may have been a combination of multiple issues, so I might need to try again.

I knew about the GPU voltage typically needing to be bumped up with some cards for DX11 games, particular a system-stressing game like BF3. GPU BIOS updates were issues specifically because of BF3.
I had the voltage set to 1.050V in Afterburner (running a 950/1900/2004 clock), and that was just peachy for what, seven or eight months? Then bam, no fun for you!

I think I had tried that same voltage with reference/stock clocks (822/1645) somewhat recently and Campaign still locked up - but I think I need to try it again in MP.

Currently Afterburner is uninstalled, as I was investigating if any software/processes/drivers were conflicting and causing this issue - but I'd say I basically ruled out most software, still trying to determine if any drivers are responsible but it would be quite swell if it was fixed by a specific voltage needing raised.

I'm kind of bummed that I went through uninstalling and cleaning out all the Realtek audio drivers and going through a headache getting a good driver install for my old PCI X-Fi Fatal1ty card (sitting unused in my last build, I think that's the one still in my forum sig btw







), when it appears my specific hard-lock was NOT related to my onboard Realtek audio (which I had played with just all this while).

I have read that the recent updates to BF3 changed how some data is streamed and whatnot, so I have been curious if a specific voltage like VCCSA or VCCIO needs bumped up, especially since I am running with a SLI config. But I had been testing VCCIO at 1.15V or so, and it doesn't seem right that it would need to be any higher since I've seen many run stable at Auto, 1.05 or 1.10V.
Would 1.20V be too much? And I've read changing the VCCSA voltage isn't a good idea... am I misinformed, and does that need to be raised up?

While I don't plan to make my 2600K last for a decade, I don't want to stress it out to the point it dies in two years either. That, and I never needed to even think about touching those voltages before to remain stable, so I'm leery of raising voltages that don't seem necessary.


----------



## destrekor

An update:

I just played a full 1000 ticket BF3 CQ match flawlessly.

Sadly, I had to drop down to [basically] stock BIOS settings to achieve that feat.
(I didn't overvolt the GPU for this test)

This needs more investigation - I will not admit being forced to keep stock speeds just because BF3 is buggy.
"It's a better stress test than stress test apps" HA, I say. It's a good all-around stress, but something else either in my system or in the game code (possibly both) resulted in BF3 suddenly disliking my OC, when it worked great before.

To note: I did disable various things in BIOS, like onboard audio and unnecessary things like Marvel, the eSATA, BT, etc. I've had those disabled before but had to tweak the "stock" BIOS, also so my Intel RST array didn't freak out (set to RAID mode).
That, and set it to "XMP" so I could enable DDR3-1600.

1 20 minute match or so isn't good enough imho at all, the lesser settings might still be merely delaying the inevitable as opposed to fixing the issue.
But... with the BCCode 117 crashing (TDR crash/hard-lock), I still suspect it isn't ENTIRELY an OC issue - the OC might just be making a conflict somewhere stand out more readily after the BF3 update. Still likely a driver issue? A voltage issue somewhere else?

I really don't want to leave this on stock speeds. It's not a huge gain, but... the extra bit helps when running a 6060x1080 resolution. BF3 might not be the MOST CPU intensive game, but racing sims are and I can use the increased framerate for sure.

If you didn't catch it, I'm basically pleading for OC help.








Well, maybe... I still think the issue lays elsewhere.


----------



## benceh

Got a question guys!

I have an Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 with an i5 2500k at stock speed. And i would like to get a GTX 690. Do you think the setup would run smoothly?
I won't have PCIe 3.0 since i don't have an ivy bridge, will it be a problem with a GTX 690? I figured out i would have to overclock my 2500k soon for better performance, apparently there is a small auto overclocking feature on my motherboard no?? If yes, please guide me on how to do it xD.

If i get a GTX 690, and my current setup isn't fine, what should i upgrade too? Maybe get a Z77 motherboard?? as the chip of the GTX 690 will apparently run at a better performance on Z77 and X79 platforms.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> Got a question guys!
> I have an Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 with an i5 2500k at stock speed. And i would like to get a GTX 690. Do you think the setup would run smoothly?
> I won't have PCIe 3.0 since i don't have an ivy bridge, will it be a problem with a GTX 690? I figured out i would have to overclock my 2500k soon for better performance, apparently there is a small auto overclocking feature on my motherboard no?? If yes, please guide me on how to do it xD.
> If i get a GTX 690, and my current setup isn't fine, what should i upgrade too? Maybe get a Z77 motherboard?? as the chip of the GTX 690 will apparently run at a better performance on Z77 and X79 platforms.


If you have the cash, Sell 2500k+P8z68 and get the Z77 version and 3570k. If not, theres not much of a reason to. The PCI-e 2.0 VS PCI-e 3.0 isnt much of a difference, so performance loss will be at a minimum. Your rig would run smooth as butter and kick all butt. I wouldnt use any auto-OC. They always use too much Voltage.


----------



## benceh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> If you have the cash, Sell 2500k+P8z68 and get the Z77 version and 3570k. If not, theres not much of a reason to. The PCI-e 2.0 VS PCI-e 3.0 isnt much of a difference, so performance loss will be at a minimum. Your rig would run smooth as butter and kick all butt. I wouldnt use any auto-OC. They always use too much Voltage.


Alright thanks, hmm, aparently the GTX 690 doesn't even use the full bandwidth of a PCI-e 2.0. And compared to the PCI-e 3.0 it has between 0-4% more performance (which isn't really noticeable). So i think i will keep my rig like this with a GTX 690 and maybe within a few months get a X79 platform with a SB-E??
Would it be worth it?
From i5 2500k + P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 ----> (to) i7 3930K + P9X79 (didn't choose the exact one yet).

I only game, and i don't do any kind of editing whatsoever.


----------



## kizwan

Your current motherboard already PCIe rev 3.0 ready. What you can do is upgrade to Ivy Bridge CPU to get PCIe rev 3.0 support. For gaming i5-3570K is enough but I'd get 3770K instead. *PCWargamer* is running 3770K with P8Z68-V/Gen3 (non-PRO) board without any problem.

Other than PCIe rev 3.0 support, I can't see any gain you can get in gaming if you either upgrade to 3770K or 3930K+X79. Instead of upgrading the whole platform, better just upgrade the CPU to Ivy Bridge.


----------



## kevindd992002

Is it really recommended to upgrade to an Ivy Bridge CPU? Are they easily overclockable like the i5 2500k?


----------



## kizwan

Yeah, they are easily overclockable base on the posts I read in this forum. The only concern is heat. In my personal opinion, I don't recommend upgrading from i5-2500K to i5-3570K. If you want to upgrade better get 3770K instead. i5-2550K is still good. I'd stick with it unless you want to have newer tech that Ivy Bridge offer.


----------



## benceh

Easily overclockable or not, eventhough i have an i5 2500k i can't overclock it.. I really don't know how to play around with it and overclock it.
Even just to 4.0GHz. I even bought a CM evo 212 after market cooler, that i'm not even making the use of (it's already installed onto my cpu).
Okay, then i think i will upgrade my cpu to the i7 3770k and keep my current motherboard.
Anyone can help with the overclocking? i know its freakin easy, but i can't work it out.

EDIT: Actually, forget the i7 3770k... so many people got issues with this cpu and mobo combo.
3770k and p8z68 v pro gen3.
So i probably will upgrade both motherboard and cpu when i get the money. Or wait a bit more.


----------



## Erper

again me...
quick question...
does anyone have any kind of problems after updating bios to latest version...

reason why im asking is next one...

i have my 2x4Gb Corsair where ive added this memory

it seems that it wont work together OCed
Edited by Erper - 7/25/12 at 1:41pm View History


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> again me...
> quick question...
> does anyone have any kind of problems after updating bios to latest version...
> 
> reason why im asking is next one...
> 
> i have my 2x4Gb Corsair where ive added this memory
> 
> it seems that it wont work together OCed
> Edited by Erper - 7/25/12 at 1:41pm View History


Yes I have with same memory see sig on MIVE-Z with 3402 bios. No problems same memory on V-Pro with 1104. 1600 works fine on both boards but 1866 is problematic when Oced on the 3xxx bios. I will find a resolve, when I have time, and get back here. It does seem to be a problem with the 3xxx bios at least on my end. Let us know if you find something.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yeah, they are easily overclockable base on the posts I read in this forum. The only concern is heat. In my personal opinion, I don't recommend upgrading from i5-2500K to i5-3570K. If you want to upgrade better get 3770K instead. i5-2550K is still good. I'd stick with it unless you want to have newer tech that Ivy Bridge offer.


What is the advantage of the Ivy Bridge CPUs compared to the Sandy Bridge ones?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What is the advantage of the Ivy Bridge CPUs compared to the Sandy Bridge ones?


Not a whole lot really. PCIe 3.0 use, and thats about all I can think of off the top of my head.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What is the advantage of the Ivy Bridge CPUs compared to the Sandy Bridge ones?


(source: anandtech)
Quote:


> _Ivy Bridge has three new features for overclocking:-_
> 
> _The max CPU ratio is now 63x up from 57x_
> _You can now adjust CPU ratios without a reboot, just via a register write._
> _DDR3-2800 will be the maximum DRAM frequency._


And also PCIe 3.0 support & multiple 4K video playback.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is it really recommended to upgrade to an Ivy Bridge CPU? Are they easily overclockable like the i5 2500k?


When it comes to pure performance, I think it depends on you and what you want and/or need. For me, I wouldn't benefit enough from the performance gained by upgrading to Ivy Bridge, but other people might. It really depends.

From what I've read, clock-for-clock, a 3570K is noticeably a little faster and more powerful than a 2500K, but when a person is only concerned about the clock speed *number*, a 3570K would be disappointing because it tops out on air at around 4.5 GHz to 4.6 GHz. However, again, clock-for-clock, the 3570K is a little faster. So a 3570K at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz is like a 2500K at 4.7 or 4.8 GHz. Going further, clock-for-clock *and voltage-for-voltage*, Ivy Bridge's temps are higher than Sandy Bridge's. So the temps for Ivy Bridge at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz with whatever the voltage would be for that are higher than the temps for Sandy Bridge at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz with whatever voltage would be for *that*. However, again, and one last time: clock-for-clock, Ivy Bridge is a little faster.

So, Ivy Bridge overclocking is a little different. Some will contend that it's not different but a little inferior because the potential maximum overclock is lower, but these CPUs are still a little faster and more powerful than Sandy Bridge. So when I say that Ivy Bridge overclocking is different, I mean that the approach is different when one knows what to expect.

In other words, I think the expectation is to top out at about 4.5 to 4.6 GHz on air just like how Sandy Bridge tops out at around 4.7 to 4.8 GHz on air. Yes, some air coolers can allow Sandy Bridge to reach 5 GHz, but that isn't the average.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> Easily overclockable or not, eventhough i have an i5 2500k i can't overclock it.. I really don't know how to play around with it and overclock it.
> Even just to 4.0GHz. I even bought a CM evo 212 after market cooler, that i'm not even making the use of (it's already installed onto my cpu).
> Okay, then i think i will upgrade my cpu to the i7 3770k and keep my current motherboard.
> Anyone can help with the overclocking? i know its freakin easy, but i can't work it out.
> EDIT: Actually, forget the i7 3770k... so many people got issues with this cpu and mobo combo.
> 3770k and p8z68 v pro gen3.
> So i probably will upgrade both motherboard and cpu when i get the money. Or wait a bit more.


I can help you overclock. You are right that it's really easy, and I think I might be able to make it even easier.

Let's try these settings in the UEFI BIOS and go from there:


*Ai Tweaker: * Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
*Ai Tweaker: * BCLK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
*Ai Tweaker: * Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
*Ai Tweaker: * By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS): *45* (this will be 4.5 GHz because 45 x 100.0 is 4500)
*Ai Tweaker: * Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled (*Note:* enable this if Windows refuses to boot with these settings here)
*Ai Tweaker: * Memory Frequency: set this to whatever memory speed your memory is supposed to be at stock
*Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Max. Frequency: Auto
*Ai Tweaker: * EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* CPU Ratio: Auto
*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* Turbo Mode: Enabled
*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* all of the rest: Auto
*Ai Tweaker: * Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High (this should minimize vDroop to its least amount)
*Ai Tweaker: * VRM Frequency: Auto
*Ai Tweaker: * VRM Spread Spectrum: (this disappears when setting "Phase Control" to Extreme, and we will do that next)
*Ai Tweaker: * Phase Control: Extreme
*Ai Tweaker: * Duty Control: Extreme
*Ai Tweaker: * CPU Current Control Capability: 100%
*Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Load-Line Calibration: Auto
*Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Current Capability: 100%
*Ai Tweaker: * CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
*Ai Tweaker: * Offset Mode Sign: +
*Ai Tweaker: * CPU Offset Voltage: 0.005
*Ai Tweaker: * Everything else: Auto, except for CPU Spread Spectrum. CPU Spread Spectrum should be disabled for Z68 boards because having it enabled results in actual the BCLK being 99 MHz


*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU Ratio: Auto
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Active Processor Cores: All
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Turbo Mode: Enabled
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C1E: Enabled
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C3 Report: Disabled
*Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C6 Report: Disabled

Now, once all of these are set, there will only be two settings that we will need to tweak going forward (and so this is where it becomes easy):


*Ai Tweaker: *By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) (this is the multiplier, which will be set to 45 for now)
*Ai Tweaker: * CPU Offset Voltage

So really, overclocking Sandy Bridge mostly becomes a matter of adjusting only the multiplier and the voltage.







(I don't know yet if this applies to Ivy Bridge too) Unfortunately, it can only become this easy once you know what to do with all of these other settings! hehe

If these settings allow you to boot into Windows, then can you report back what your full-load voltage is as displayed by CPU-Z? For full load, I recommend running Prime95's Blend test for a few seconds.

Thanks, benceh!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> Got a question guys!
> I have an Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 with an i5 2500k at stock speed. And i would like to get a GTX 690. Do you think the setup would run smoothly?
> I won't have PCIe 3.0 since i don't have an ivy bridge, will it be a problem with a GTX 690? I figured out i would have to overclock my 2500k soon for better performance, apparently there is a small auto overclocking feature on my motherboard no?? If yes, please guide me on how to do it xD.
> If i get a GTX 690, and my current setup isn't fine, what should i upgrade too? Maybe get a Z77 motherboard?? as the chip of the GTX 690 will apparently run at a better performance on Z77 and X79 platforms.


I think you will be fine with the Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 and the 2500K for gaming. When I used the 2500K there was never a problem with any game as it is a very good gaming CPU that can more than handle any of the games out there today. The only issue would be the GPU, but if you are getting a GTX 690 you will have no problem with the board, 2500K, or GPU and will be able to handle any game much more than fine. Also, I do not think the PCI 2.0 to PCI 3.0 will be significant enough to matter.

I did change out my 2500K, though, for a 3770K when my kids needed a new CPU, and the 3770K worked fine on my Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 after a BIOS update (I'm using 3201). No problem at all. I would not spend the money for a Z77 unless you just really want one. Also, I would not advise you to get a Z79 when you already have a Z68 board that would work with a 3770K for a lot less money and be very close to the same performace, as both would be far more CPU than any game needs today.

So, in my opinion, you will be fine with the Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3, the 2500K, and the GTX 690, especially once you get the 2500K OC'ed.

Best wishes and good gaming!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> (source: anandtech)
> And also PCIe 3.0 support & multiple 4K video playback.


What is myltiple 4K video playback?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> When it comes to pure performance, I think it depends on you and what you want and/or need. For me, I wouldn't benefit enough from the performance gained by upgrading to Ivy Bridge, but other people might. It really depends.
> 
> From what I've read, clock-for-clock, a 3570K is noticeably a little faster and more powerful than a 2500K, but when a person is only concerned about the clock speed *number*, a 3570K would be disappointing because it tops out on air at around 4.5 GHz to 4.6 GHz. However, again, clock-for-clock, the 3570K is a little faster. So a 3570K at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz is like a 2500K at 4.7 or 4.8 GHz. Going further, clock-for-clock *and voltage-for-voltage*, Ivy Bridge's temps are higher than Sandy Bridge's. So the temps for Ivy Bridge at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz with whatever the voltage would be for that are higher than the temps for Sandy Bridge at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz with whatever voltage would be for *that*. However, again, and one last time: clock-for-clock, Ivy Bridge is a little faster.
> 
> So, Ivy Bridge overclocking is a little different. Some will contend that it's not different but a little inferior because the potential maximum overclock is lower, but these CPUs are still a little faster and more powerful than Sandy Bridge. So when I say that Ivy Bridge overclocking is different, I mean that the approach is different when one knows what to expect.
> 
> In other words, I think the expectation is to top out at about 4.5 to 4.6 GHz on air just like how Sandy Bridge tops out at around 4.7 to 4.8 GHz on air. Yes, some air coolers can allow Sandy Bridge to reach 5 GHz, but that isn't the average.
> 
> I can help you overclock. You are right that it's really easy, and I think I might be able to make it even easier.
> 
> Let's try these settings in the UEFI BIOS and go from there:
> 
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * BCLK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS): *45* _(this will be 4.5 GHz because 45 x 100.0 is 4500)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled _(*Note:* enable this if Windows refuses to boot with these settings here)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Memory Frequency: _set this to whatever memory speed your memory is supposed to be at stock_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Max. Frequency: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* CPU Ratio: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* Turbo Mode: Enabled
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* _all of the rest:_ Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High _(this should minimize vDroop to its least amount)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * VRM Frequency: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * VRM Spread Spectrum: _(this disappears when setting "Phase Control" to Extreme, and we will do that next_)
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Phase Control: Extreme
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Duty Control: Extreme
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Current Control Capability: 100%
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Load-Line Calibration: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Current Capability: 100%
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Offset Mode Sign: +
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Offset Voltage: 0.005
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Everything else: Auto, except for CPU Spread Spectrum. CPU Spread Spectrum should be disabled for Z68 boards because having it enabled results in actual the BCLK being 99 MHz
> 
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU Ratio: Auto
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Active Processor Cores: All
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Turbo Mode: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C1E: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C3 Report: Disabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C6 Report: Disabled
> 
> Now, once all of these are set, there will only be two settings that we will need to tweak going forward (and so this is where it becomes easy):
> 
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: *By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) _(this is the multiplier, which will be set to 45 for now)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Offset Voltage
> 
> So really, overclocking Sandy Bridge mostly becomes a matter of adjusting only the multiplier and the voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I don't know yet if this applies to Ivy Bridge too) Unfortunately, it can only become this easy once you know what to do with all of these other settings! hehe
> 
> If these settings allow you to boot into Windows, then can you report back what your full-load voltage is as displayed by CPU-Z? For full load, I recommend running Prime95's Blend test for a few seconds.
> 
> Thanks, benceh!


Thanks for the explanation









Now I wan to overclock my i5 2500K too but need some guidance as well. In the Sandy Stable thread, the PLL voltage is further tweaked, do you also do that?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What is myltiple 4K video playback?
> Thanks for the explanation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I wan to overclock my i5 2500K too but need some guidance as well. In the Sandy Stable thread, the PLL voltage is further tweaked, do you also do that?


I don't know how to describe what multiple 4K video playback is exactly, but it's multiple video playback of the 4K resolution:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution

It sounds impressive to me. 

For approximately 4.7 GHz and under, I wouldn't attempt adjusting the CPU PLL Voltage because the only benefits that I know of would be to possibly lower the core temps and/or possibly allow for a lower core voltage. I mean, the temps and voltage I have at 4.7 GHz are already so low that I have no interest in making any other adjustments, even if they could actually promise lower temps and voltages (as opposed to just saying "it might be possible").

Still, you can do it if you want, but I personally feel that it's not worth the time unless you want to make it possible to get lower temps and maybe even be able to use a lower core voltage. Now, when I had my 2500K at 4.8 GHz, I experimented with lowering my CPU PLL Voltage and I had some good success, but I put my CPU back down to 4.7 GHz because these days all I do is use Firefox and I check my e-mail with Microsoft Outlook. I also watch the occasional movie, but that's it. Fortunately, 4.7 GHz is extremely easy for my 2500K to achieve, so that's where it sits. Otherwise it would be at like 4.5 GHz or even stock.

So anyway, I recommend keeping it simple. However, if you want to play around with CPU PLL Adjustments, then I recommend starting at 1.700V and then experimenting with voltages above and below that until it is stable.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know how to describe what multiple 4K video playback is exactly, but it's multiple video playback of the 4K resolution:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution
> 
> It sounds impressive to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For approximately 4.7 GHz and under, I wouldn't attempt adjusting the CPU PLL Voltage because the only benefits that I know of would be to possibly lower the core temps and/or possibly allow for a lower core voltage. I mean, the temps and voltage I have at 4.7 GHz are already so low that I have no interest in making any other adjustments, even if they could actually promise lower temps and voltages (as opposed to just saying "it might be possible").
> 
> Still, you can do it if you want, but I personally feel that it's not worth the time unless you want to make it possible to get lower temps and maybe even be able to use a lower core voltage. Now, when I had my 2500K at 4.8 GHz, I experimented with lowering my CPU PLL Voltage and I had some good success, but I put my CPU back down to 4.7 GHz because these days all I do is use Firefox and I check my e-mail with Microsoft Outlook. I also watch the occasional movie, but that's it. Fortunately, 4.7 GHz is extremely easy for my 2500K to achieve, so that's where it sits. Otherwise it would be at like 4.5 GHz or even stock.
> 
> So anyway, I recommend keeping it simple. However, if you want to play around with CPU PLL Adjustments, then I recommend starting at 1.700V and then experimenting with voltages above and below that until it is stable.


Ok, but I think the 2500K is still one hell of a CPU









Yeah, we have the same views. It would be a lot of time to tinker with the PLL voltage and I don't have that luxury right now, lol.

What do you think is the most efficient multiplier nowadays for the 2500K? I do occasional gaming but will dive into it a bit more in the future when I buy (possibly) a GTX 660Ti to replace my GTX 560Ti GPU.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok, but I think the 2500K is still one hell of a CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, we have the same views. It would be a lot of time to tinker with the PLL voltage and I don't have that luxury right now, lol.
> What do you think is the most efficient multiplier nowadays for the 2500K? I do occasional gaming but will dive into it a bit more in the future when I buy (possibly) a GTX 660Ti to replace my GTX 560Ti GPU.


I don't know if there *is* a 'most efficient multiplier'. I just went with the highest overclock that I could with my Thermaltake Frio, and that was 4.8 GHz. Well, I probably could have done 4.9 GHz, but the increase in voltage I needed from 4.7 to 4.8 GHz made me assume that 4.9 GHz would have required over 1.45V, so I didn't attempt it.

In other words, just overclock it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know if there _*is*_ a 'most efficient multiplier'. I just went with the highest overclock that I could with my Thermaltake Frio, and that was 4.8 GHz. Well, I probably could have done 4.9 GHz, but the increase in voltage I needed from 4.7 to 4.8 GHz made me assume that 4.9 GHz would have required over 1.45V, so I didn't attempt it.
> 
> In other words, just overclock it.


Ok. Can you guide me from the start again on how to overclock?









I said to myself that my ultimate limit in temps would be 85C. So as long as I don't reach that temp while overclocking, I would increase the multiplier more and more


----------



## benceh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> If these settings allow you to boot into Windows, then can you report back what your full-load voltage is as displayed by CPU-Z? For full load, I recommend running Prime95's Blend test for a few seconds.
> 
> Thanks, benceh!


1/ Could you link me the download for Prime95 and CPU-Z please?? (Virus free)
2/ So i have to change all my settings on my P8Z68 V PRO/GEN3 motherboard just like above?
3/ I OC directly to 4.5? Or should i first go to 4.0 than 4.5?
4/ After the overclock which i will do on tuesday evening (when i get home) or wednesday morning, how can i run the tests and see if the OC is stable? What numbers should i transmit to you so you can tell me wether it is stable or not?
5/ I need more details on this part please:
_"Now, once all of these are set, there will only be two settings that we will need to tweak going forward (and so this is where it becomes easy):
[*] Ai Tweaker: By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) (this is the multiplier, which will be set to 45 for now)
[*] Ai Tweaker: CPU Offset Voltage"_
6/ If my system doesn't boot, what should i do? (incase).
7/ I have a cooler master evo 212 cpu cooler, is it enough for a 4.5-4.7GHz overclock??
8/ I hear some people saying you have to maintain and check once in a while the OC status, is it true?? I shut down my PC nearly everynight, and it is a sleep mode a few times a day (if this has any influence).

Thanks mate. Will be testing the overclocking by wednesday (not at home until tuesday evening).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. Can you guide me from the start again on how to overclock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I said to myself that my ultimate limit in temps would be 85C. So as long as I don't reach that temp while overclocking, I would increase the multiplier more and more


Actually, everything I said to Benceh in this post can apply to you as well because when it comes to overclocking, your board is the same as his. So, can you do everything I'm asking him to do?

Thank you, Kevin!


----------



## benceh

@TwoCables Check my last post on this thread please! Need some answer <3


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> 1/ Could you link me the download for Prime95 and CPU-Z please?? (Virus free)


Absolutely!

Prime95 for 32-bit Windows: ftp://mersenne.org/gimps/p95v277.win32.zip

Prime95 for 64-bit Windows: ftp://mersenne.org/gimps/p95v277.win64.zip

Source: http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/default.php

32-bit CPU-Z: http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.60.1-32bits-en.zip

64-bit CPU-Z: http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/1.60.1-64bits-en.zip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> 2/ So i have to change all my settings on my P8Z68 V PRO/GEN3 motherboard just like above?


Yep!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> 3/ I OC directly to 4.5? Or should i first go to 4.0 than 4.5?


It will be 4.5 GHz because the settings I am recommending include setting the multiplier to 45. So, go ahead and do that. It'll be alright.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> 4/ After the overclock which i will do on tuesday evening (when i get home) or wednesday morning, how can i run the tests and see if the OC is stable? What numbers should i transmit to you so you can tell me wether it is stable or not?


This will be something you can determine without anyone else's judgment by seeing whether or not your system can run Prime95's Custom Blend test for 14 hours or slightly more. 14 hours is how long it takes Prime95's Blend test to go through all 84 of its FFTs one time each (it may take a little longer than 14 hours, but it won't be more than 15 hours).

The reason for doing the Custom Blend test is so that you can tell Prime95 to use about 90 to 95% of your memory instead of the 1600 MB of the default Blend test. To do the Custom Blend test, just select Blend and then select Custom.

However, the first thing to do is just post what full-load (Prime95 Blend) core voltage you get with these settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> 5/ I need more details on this part please:
> _"Now, once all of these are set, there will only be two settings that we will need to tweak going forward (and so this is where it becomes easy):
> [*] Ai Tweaker: By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) (this is the multiplier, which will be set to 45 for now)
> [*] Ai Tweaker: CPU Offset Voltage"_


I'm saying that these are the only two settings that you will still need to come back to once in a while in order to keep tweaking the overclock (for example: to raise the clock speed or the core voltage).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> 6/ If my system doesn't boot, what should i do? (incase).


Enable Internal PLL Overvoltage. So if it boots, then leave it disabled.

If that doesn't work, then put it back to Disabled and increase the Offset Voltage until it boots.

If the motherboard won't boot (if it doesn't even get a chance to begin loading Windows), then we'll go from there, but this is a very unlikely event to occur with these settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> 7/ I have a cooler master evo 212 cpu cooler, is it enough for a 4.5-4.7GHz overclock??


Absolutely! This is actually why I'm recommending that we start at 4.5 GHz. I see no reason to start lower than that. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> 8/ I hear some people saying you have to maintain and check once in a while the OC status, is it true?? I shut down my PC nearly everynight, and it is a sleep mode a few times a day (if this has any influence).


I don't know what these people are saying, but I know one thing is for certain: if it's stable, then it's stable and you can use your computer however you want with peace of mind.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> Thanks mate. Will be testing the overclocking by wednesday (not at home until tuesday evening).


You're welcome!

Take all the time that you need.


----------



## benceh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The reason for doing the Custom Blend test is so that you can tell Prime95 to use about 90 to 95% of your memory instead of the 1600 MB of the default Blend test. To do the Custom Blend test, just select Blend and then select Custom.
> 
> However, the first thing to do is just post what full-load (Prime95 Blend) core voltage you get with these settings.


And how will i find the full load (prime95 Blend) core voltage that i get with the settings you posted?

Cheers for spending some extra time on my case.
I think 4.5GHz should be enough of OC for the Nvidia 600 series cards? And also for the normal performance.
If the temps are okay, should i push to 4.7GHz? (We'll talk about that later, will probably pm you by wednesday morning) rather than posting here if you don't mind. So check your Inbox!
Thanks again.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes I have with same memory see sig on MIVE-Z with 3402 bios. No problems same memory on V-Pro with 1104. 1600 works fine on both boards but 1866 is problematic when Oced on the 3xxx bios. I will find a resolve, when I have time, and get back here. It does seem to be a problem with the 3xxx bios at least on my end. Let us know if you find something.


`

when i pair my 2x4 with that extra 4 i can boot into OS but when i try to OC it just require restart after some time...
or its doing on its own...
now what im thinking that those sticks have to be on 16gb to work ok cause one slot is left opened


----------



## awdrifter

Question about the Asus AI Suite. I want to set different oc settings in Windows with the Turbo V, but it seems like I can't adjust the multiplier with it. I clicked ON and let it restart my comp, but after that it's still the same. Does anyone know what I need to set in Bios or AI Suite to allow it to change the CPU multiplier in Windows? Thanks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> And how will i find the full load (prime95 Blend) core voltage that i get with the settings you posted?


Have CPU-Z open while something like Prime95's Blend test is running.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> Cheers for spending some extra time on my case.


You're welcome!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> I think 4.5GHz should be enough of OC for the Nvidia 600 series cards? And also for the normal performance.


I think so, but this is always the judgment call of the end-user. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benceh*
> 
> If the temps are okay, should i push to 4.7GHz? (We'll talk about that later, will probably pm you by wednesday morning) rather than posting here if you don't mind. So check your Inbox!
> Thanks again.


I'd prefer that you post a message in this thread instead of sending me a private message because that way we may be able to benefit other members.

Anyway, I'd love to try 4.7 GHz, but for now let's wait and see what these settings for 4.5 GHz give us. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awdrifter*
> 
> Question about the Asus AI Suite. I want to set different oc settings in Windows with the Turbo V, but it seems like I can't adjust the multiplier with it. I clicked ON and let it restart my comp, but after that it's still the same. Does anyone know what I need to set in Bios or AI Suite to allow it to change the CPU multiplier in Windows? Thanks.


I'm not sure about this, but I think this needs the Intel Management Interface to be installed. *Edit:* I just tried it, and it turns out that I'm wrong. Mine doesn't save the settings either.

Why not do this directly in the UEFI BIOS instead?


----------



## awdrifter

I want to try set a higher oc setting that are only used for running emulator, for daily use 4.6ghz is more than enough, but I want to see if I can push 4.7-4.8ghz stable and use that setting only for emulators. If anyone knows how to enable that setting in Turbo V, please share. Thanks.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What is myltiple 4K video playback?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know how to describe what multiple 4K video playback is exactly, but it's multiple video playback of the 4K resolution:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution
> 
> It sounds impressive to me.


I can't explain any better than wikipedia. I did try playing 4K video on a first gen Intel Core processor & ATI 5870. With software acceleration it can play fine but when using hardware acceleration, the whole computer crashed. That is only one instance of 4K video.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I can't explain any better than wikipedia. I did try playing 4K video on a first gen Intel Core processor & ATI 5870. With software acceleration it can play fine but when using hardware acceleration, the whole computer crashed. That is only one instance of 4K video.


Hmmm, can you direct me to a link for a 4K resolution video?


----------



## TwoCables

An example of a 4K resolution video:






Click the cog wheel, and select "Original". This will result in the 4K resolution as opposed to a lower res like 1080p. When you're watching, pay attention to the details.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=4k+resolution&aq=f


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> When it comes to pure performance, I think it depends on you and what you want and/or need. For me, I wouldn't benefit enough from the performance gained by upgrading to Ivy Bridge, but other people might. It really depends.
> 
> From what I've read, clock-for-clock, a 3570K is noticeably a little faster and more powerful than a 2500K, but when a person is only concerned about the clock speed *number*, a 3570K would be disappointing because it tops out on air at around 4.5 GHz to 4.6 GHz. However, again, clock-for-clock, the 3570K is a little faster. So a 3570K at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz is like a 2500K at 4.7 or 4.8 GHz. Going further, clock-for-clock *and voltage-for-voltage*, Ivy Bridge's temps are higher than Sandy Bridge's. So the temps for Ivy Bridge at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz with whatever the voltage would be for that are higher than the temps for Sandy Bridge at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz with whatever voltage would be for *that*. However, again, and one last time: clock-for-clock, Ivy Bridge is a little faster.
> 
> So, Ivy Bridge overclocking is a little different. Some will contend that it's not different but a little inferior because the potential maximum overclock is lower, but these CPUs are still a little faster and more powerful than Sandy Bridge. So when I say that Ivy Bridge overclocking is different, I mean that the approach is different when one knows what to expect.
> 
> In other words, I think the expectation is to top out at about 4.5 to 4.6 GHz on air just like how Sandy Bridge tops out at around 4.7 to 4.8 GHz on air. Yes, some air coolers can allow Sandy Bridge to reach 5 GHz, but that isn't the average.
> 
> I can help you overclock. You are right that it's really easy, and I think I might be able to make it even easier.
> 
> Let's try these settings in the UEFI BIOS and go from there:
> 
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * BCLK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS): *45* _(this will be 4.5 GHz because 45 x 100.0 is 4500)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled _(*Note:* enable this if Windows refuses to boot with these settings here)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Memory Frequency: _set this to whatever memory speed your memory is supposed to be at stock_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Max. Frequency: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* CPU Ratio: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* Turbo Mode: Enabled
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* _all of the rest:_ Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High _(this should minimize vDroop to its least amount)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * VRM Frequency: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * VRM Spread Spectrum: _(this disappears when setting "Phase Control" to Extreme, and we will do that next_)
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Phase Control: Extreme
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Duty Control: Extreme
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Current Control Capability: 100%
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Load-Line Calibration: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Current Capability: 100%
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Offset Mode Sign: +
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Offset Voltage: 0.005
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Everything else: Auto, except for CPU Spread Spectrum. CPU Spread Spectrum should be disabled for Z68 boards because having it enabled results in actual the BCLK being 99 MHz
> 
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU Ratio: Auto
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Active Processor Cores: All
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Turbo Mode: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C1E: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C3 Report: Disabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C6 Report: Disabled
> 
> Now, once all of these are set, there will only be two settings that we will need to tweak going forward (and so this is where it becomes easy):
> 
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: *By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) _(this is the multiplier, which will be set to 45 for now)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Offset Voltage
> 
> So really, overclocking Sandy Bridge mostly becomes a matter of adjusting only the multiplier and the voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I don't know yet if this applies to Ivy Bridge too) Unfortunately, it can only become this easy once you know what to do with all of these other settings! hehe
> 
> If these settings allow you to boot into Windows, then can you report back what your full-load voltage is as displayed by CPU-Z? For full load, I recommend running Prime95's Blend test for a few seconds.
> 
> Thanks, benceh!


Have a concern with some settings. I reckon that last year you were recommending to start off with Manual voltage first and when you get the desired voltage already, then that's the time we go with Offset?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Have a concern with some settings. I reckon that last year you were recommending to start off with Manual voltage first and when you get the desired voltage already, then that's the time we go with Offset?


I'm getting the feeling that you don't trust me. That was almost a year ago.


----------



## TwoCables

lol now I'm watching 4k videos on YouTube. I have personally never seen video quality like this before, so I'm having fun.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm getting the feeling that you don't trust me. That was almost a year ago.


Oh no no Sir, please don't misunderstand me, I trust you completely







It's just that all these information are getting mixed up in my mind. I'm just always a curious person









1.) What disadvantage do I get if I disable spread spectrum for my Z68 board?

2.) Is it better to set VRM frequency to Auto instead of the old "350" value?

3.) How about for CPU current capability 100% vs. 140%?

4.) Also, with regards to the Offset voltage, so I just increase my CPU voltage by increasing the value of the Offset voltage itself?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> lol now I'm watching 4k videos on YouTube. I have personally never seen video quality like this before, so I'm having fun.


How do I know if the video I'm watching in youtube is a 4K video?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh no no Sir, please don't misunderstand me, I trust you completely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just that all these information are getting mixed up in my mind. I'm just always a curious person
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.) What disadvantage do I get if I disable spread spectrum for my Z68 board?


None, just an advantage because *enabling* it on Z68 boards seems to always cause the BCLK to go down to 99 MHz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 2.) Is it better to set VRM frequency to Auto instead of the old "350" value?


For 4.5 GHz through 4.7 GHz, yep! These motherboards are good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 3.) How about for CPU current capability 100% vs. 140%?


I'm using 100% for 4.7 GHz with no problems.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 4.) Also, with regards to the Offset voltage, so I just increase my CPU voltage by increasing the value of the Offset voltage itself


If the "Offset Mode Sign" is the *plus* sign (which it is in these settings), then increasing the Offset Voltage number/value increases the voltage. If the Offset Mode Sign is the *minus* sign, then increasing the Offset Voltage number/value will lower the voltage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How do I know if the video I'm watching in youtube is a 4K video?


From a post I made about 30 minutes ago (it was buried):

An example of a 4K resolution video:






Click the cog wheel, and select "Original". This will result in the 4K resolution as opposed to a lower res like 1080p. When you're watching, pay attention to the details.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=4k+resolution&aq=f

If you don't select "Original", then it won't be in 4K. This resolution of 4K is 4096 x 3072. In other words, it's 3072p!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> None, just an advantage because *enabling* it on Z68 boards seems to always cause the BCLK to go down to 99 MHz.
> 
> For 4.5 GHz through 4.7 GHz, yep! These motherboards are good.
> 
> I'm using 100% for 4.7 GHz with no problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the "Offset Mode Sign" is the *plus* sign (which it is in these settings), then increasing the Offset Voltage number/value increases the voltage. If the Offset Mode Sign is the *minus* sign, then increasing the Offset Voltage number/value will lower the voltage.
> 
> From a post I made about 30 minutes ago (it was buried):
> 
> An example of a 4K resolution video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click the cog wheel, and select "Original". This will result in the 4K resolution as opposed to a lower res like 1080p. When you're watching, pay attention to the details.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=4k+resolution&aq=f
> 
> If you don't select "Original", then it won't be in 4K. This resolution of 4K is 4096 x 3072. In other words, it's 3072p!


1.) Ok, will set Spread Spectrum to disabled









2.) So if I'm aiming for more than 4.7GHz, I should set VRM frequency to Manual and 350?

3.) So if I'm aiming for more than 4.7GHz, I should use 140% current capability?

4.) How will I know if I need a + or a - sign for Offset voltage?

God! The quality of 4K resolution is very very good!!!!







But the thing is that if I "show video info" by right-clicking the video, it just shows 2048x1536?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 1.) Ok, will set Spread Spectrum to disabled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.) So if I'm aiming for more than 4.7GHz, I should set VRM frequency to Manual and 350?


I don't know, but that's what I saw recommended here and it seems they're recommending it for ~4.8 GHz

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 3.) So if I'm aiming for more than 4.7GHz, I should use 140% current capability?


I don't know, but in the thread I linked above, they're recommending 100%. I no longer remember why I ever chose 140% 4.8 GHz in the first place. I can't find anything that recommends anything over 100% for 4.8 GHz!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 4.) How will I know if I need a + or a - sign for Offset voltage?


If +0.005V is too high, switch to the minus sign. If you were starting out with -0.005V and it turned out to be too low, then you'd switch to a plus sign.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> God! The quality of 4K resolution is very very good!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the thing is that if I "show video info" by right-clicking the video, it just shows 2048x1536?


Yeah, I think I'm addicted right now. That first video of that old guy and his little grand daughter blew me away from the very beginning with the detail of his shirt! When I saw that, I was hooked and now I'm watching like my 5th or 6th random 4K (3072p) video!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But the thing is that if I "show video info" by right-clicking the video, it just shows 2048x1536?


Oh, I didn't notice that before (I didn't check). That must be the highest people can get with monitors that are not fully capable of 4096 x 3072. Still, this is awesome.

*Edit:* I'm off to bed. I'll see you a round like a doughnut! tehehe Get it? A *round?*


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know, but that's what I saw recommended here and it seems they're recommending it for ~4.8 GHz
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110
> 
> I don't know, but in the thread I linked above, they're recommending 100%. I no longer remember why I ever chose 140% 4.8 GHz in the first place. I can't find anything that recommends anything over 100% for 4.8 GHz!
> 
> If +0.005V is too high, switch to the minus sign. If you were starting out with -0.005V and it turned out to be too low, then you'd switch to a plus sign.
> 
> Yeah, I think I'm addicted right now. That first video of that old guy and his little grand daughter blew me away from the very beginning with the detail of his shirt! When I saw that, I was hooked and now I'm watching like my 5th or 6th random 4K (3072p) video!
> 
> Oh, I didn't notice that before (I didn't check). That must be the highest people can get with monitors that are not fully capable of 4096 x 3072. Still, this is awesome.
> 
> *Edit:* I'm off to bed. I'll see you a round like a doughnut! tehehe Get it? A *round?*


Thanks, might have to experiment now with my overclocking. This is tough, lol.

Oh ok, that's probably the reason for the lower resolution. So Ivy Bridge is optimized for the 4K resolution, great!


----------



## Erper

You also have 8k video...
Now thats something


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks, might have to experiment now with my overclocking. This is tough, lol.
> Oh ok, that's probably the reason for the lower resolution. So Ivy Bridge is optimized for the 4K resolution, great!


It's not tough. Like I said, once you set all of those settings, there are only about 2 that you have to come back to. This means that once all of those settings are set, you really only have 2 settings for overclocking: the multiplier and the voltage. Some people might say that you may also end up wanting to adjust a couple of other things at some point, but I am just generalizing here.


----------



## gaul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gaul*
> 
> anyone have link downgrade BIOS P8P67Pro rev 3.1 ?
> im with 3207 (newest) got problem PCIX read / run 8x only
> 8x ( only )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this link http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629404, not working to my mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AFUWINx64 says *" BIOS does not support AFU "*


ANYONE PLZ ?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's not tough. Like I said, once you set all of those settings, there are only about 2 that you have to come back to. This means that once all of those settings are set, you really only have 2 settings for overclocking: the multiplier and the voltage. Some people might say that you may also end up wanting to adjust a couple of other things at some point, but I am just generalizing here.


Yeah, thanks. I will post any progress I might have here when they are already significant.


----------



## TwoCables

gaul: I think that no one is ignoring you, but it's that those who've seen your question so far don't have a clue. I'm one of them: I don't know what I'd do if I were in your shoes. Actually, I would probably make a new thread in order for my situation to get the highest visibility in order to maximize my chances for getting an answer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, thanks. I will post any progress I might have here when they are already significant.


Alright, that sounds good.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gaul*
> 
> ANYONE PLZ ?


just go to asus download older bios and try to flash it


----------



## gaul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> gaul: I think that no one is ignoring you, but it's that those who've seen your question so far don't have a clue. I'm one of them: I don't know what I'd do if I were in your shoes. Actually, I would probably make a new thread in order for my situation to get the highest visibility in order to maximize my chances for getting an answer.


my bad, thx
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> just go to asus download older bios and try to flash it


here :










it's say outdated


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, I was going to say that the reason you're trying to do this is because ASUS has made this difficult for us.


----------



## raisethe3

Gaul, why not post in the ASUS forums. Maybe the ASUS tech experts can help you out or even offer to replace a bios chip for you. Good luck.


----------



## destrekor

(I tried finding the answer to the following question throughout this thread, but could not find one)

I have the P8Z68 Deluxe, currently on BIOS 3203.
Is there any changes in this BIOS, any improvements, aside from the Intel RST? I do use RST for two RAID volumes split between two HDDs (and my boot SSD is on the Intel SATA ports).

I ask this, because I am running out of possible solutions to solve my BF3 hard-lockups. Even at stock clock speeds (CPU and GPU), I cannot play BF3 without the system locking up. Previously, I could play with everything OC'd and the system was stable (outside of BF3 crashing, the system was still stable as well). Between BF3 working well and BF3 causing hard-locks, nothing had changed other than some BF3 code (patch, plus Premium/CQ DLC in mid-June). That's when I upgraded from an earlier BIOS to 3203, and that brought no improvement.

So, does the latest BIOS offer any additional "stability improvements", and has anybody noticed any benefit?
Aside from raw performance stats, will the latest Intel RST offer anything else for me? Sure, increased read/write speeds might be nice (this is something the latest update offers, yes?), but if that's all I'd see, I'll hold off on the update until I can solve this BF3 hates me and hates life tantrum it's throwing.

Dropping my OC to stock did increase how long I could play BF3 until it finally gave up on me; before, I could maybe get between 1-10 minutes of play with my OC before a hard-lock, and without the OC it seemed I could get a half hour or more before a hard-lock.

That, and I get BCCode 117s (on rare occasion, I think Windows doesn't always get a chance to actually write a crash report), and it points blame to the Nvidia driver, but I've tried both the latest beta (304.79), the other betas, the most recent WHQL (301.42), and even 296.10 WHQL - nothing produced a hard-lock free gaming experience.

BTW, Windows Memory Diagnostic and MemTest86+, both running multiple passes, spit out zero errors (3 passes of WMD, 5 or 6 passes of MT86+).

I know y'all might not have an answer for the BF3 issue, but I'd at least like an answer to the BIOS question.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> (I tried finding the answer to the following question throughout this thread, but could not find one)
> I have the P8Z68 Deluxe, currently on BIOS 3203.
> Is there any changes in this BIOS, any improvements, aside from the Intel RST? I do use RST for two RAID volumes split between two HDDs (and my boot SSD is on the Intel SATA ports).
> I ask this, because I am running out of possible solutions to solve my BF3 hard-lockups. Even at stock clock speeds (CPU and GPU), I cannot play BF3 without the system locking up. Previously, I could play with everything OC'd and the system was stable (outside of BF3 crashing, the system was still stable as well). Between BF3 working well and BF3 causing hard-locks, nothing had changed other than some BF3 code (patch, plus Premium/CQ DLC in mid-June). That's when I upgraded from an earlier BIOS to 3203, and that brought no improvement.
> So, does the latest BIOS offer any additional "stability improvements", and has anybody noticed any benefit?
> Aside from raw performance stats, will the latest Intel RST offer anything else for me? Sure, increased read/write speeds might be nice (this is something the latest update offers, yes?), but if that's all I'd see, I'll hold off on the update until I can solve this BF3 hates me and hates life tantrum it's throwing.
> Dropping my OC to stock did increase how long I could play BF3 until it finally gave up on me; before, I could maybe get between 1-10 minutes of play with my OC before a hard-lock, and without the OC it seemed I could get a half hour or more before a hard-lock.
> That, and I get BCCode 117s (on rare occasion, I think Windows doesn't always get a chance to actually write a crash report), and it points blame to the Nvidia driver, but I've tried both the latest beta (304.79), the other betas, the most recent WHQL (301.42), and even 296.10 WHQL - nothing produced a hard-lock free gaming experience.
> BTW, Windows Memory Diagnostic and MemTest86+, both running multiple passes, spit out zero errors (3 passes of WMD, 5 or 6 passes of MT86+).
> I know y'all might not have an answer for the BF3 issue, but I'd at least like an answer to the BIOS question.


If you are having those problems than you are not the only one...
with latest bios i think there is so many bugs that they havent fixed or they fixed one but made another one..
with previous bios i had chance to OC my cpu up to 5.0ghz now i cant past even 4.8
also memory support or whatever they did is making some problems too...
i have my 8gb where i paired with another 4 same memory and as soon i OC cpu everything is working but not the way it should or im getting some bsods

they said improved stability
id say reduced


----------



## destrekor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> If you are having those problems than you are not the only one...
> with latest bios i think there is so many bugs that they havent fixed or they fixed one but made another one..
> with previous bios i had chance to OC my cpu up to 5.0ghz now i cant past even 4.8
> also memory support or whatever they did is making some problems too...
> i have my 8gb where i paired with another 4 same memory and as soon i OC cpu everything is working but not the way it should or im getting some bsods
> they said improved stability
> id say reduced


I looked up the screenshots I had taken to remember OC settings prior to upgrading to 3203, and it appears I was running on 0706.
I bought the mobo in October 2011, and that was what shipped with it. It was running great and stable with my 4.8GHz OC, but then June 15th or so BF3 starts producing hard-locks every time I play it.
I've basically ruled out "system instability" as the cause, for the most part, and updating the BIOS was one of the "well, maybe this will fix it..." hail mary fixes.

I don't really care to go that route again, since that introduces a small chance of failure and said failure would produce far more stress than I'd like to risk at this moment.
So for me, I don't think 3203 "broke" anything, but it just didn't fix whatever is making BF3 unhappy. I still think it's drivers, something, somewhere.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> I looked up the screenshots I had taken to remember OC settings prior to upgrading to 3203, and it appears I was running on 0706.
> I bought the mobo in October 2011, and that was what shipped with it. It was running great and stable with my 4.8GHz OC, but then June 15th or so BF3 starts producing hard-locks every time I play it.
> I've basically ruled out "system instability" as the cause, for the most part, and updating the BIOS was one of the "well, maybe this will fix it..." hail mary fixes.
> I don't really care to go that route again, since that introduces a small chance of failure and said failure would produce far more stress than I'd like to risk at this moment.
> So for me, I don't think 3203 "broke" anything, but it just didn't fix whatever is making BF3 unhappy. I still think it's drivers, something, somewhere.


BF3 is a fussy pig. That from someone who loves it. I run it on 580SLi/P8Z68 DeluxeGen3/i72600K. If I change GFX clocks or cpu clocks it doesn't seem to like it.


----------



## destrekor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> BF3 is a fussy pig. That from someone who loves it. I run it on 580SLi/P8Z68 DeluxeGen3/i72600K. If I change GFX clocks or cpu clocks it doesn't seem to like it.


Yeah, but it doesn't matter WHAT settings I run, it just doesn't work out, at all.

So something has to change, somewhere... I just can't figure out what that something is. A driver, a program, a piece of hardware, some obscure setting somewhere.

It used to work beautifully and stable for all-night sessions... now BF3 just looks at me, tells me to do unspeakable things, then refuses to continue the charade and stops everything.

I had the GPUs (on driver 302.24 beta) @ 950/1900/2004, with 1.050V, and my 2600K @ 4.8GHz, a shade under 1.40V, and the game ate it up and asked for seconds. Then after Premium/CQ, I had a few days of stable gaming. June 15th or 16th rolls around, and BF3 was like "you know what... actually, I hate everything about you. We're done, you and I." At that point, I went wild with driver updates, downgrades, BIOS tweaking, dropping OCs in steps, giving up the Realtek onboard and using my old X-Fi PCI card, new Mobo BIOS, eventually giving up ALL OCs, and then round after round of Driver Sweeper (and then Driver Fusion) alongside CCleaner to clear up some registry junk (I did that part carefully, mind you. It was a long time ago that I learned the pitfalls of even looking at a Registry the wrong way, spiteful bastard that one).

I'm just lost, annoyed, befuddled, and shades of angry at this point. I think I miss BF3 so much simply because it's now a case of "no, you cannot have this. Look, but don't touch."
Before June, it had been a few months since playing. That's also the thing I love about DLC - it'll give me time with an old game yet again - I rarely play games for month after month after month.
So, months without playing, I get back into it - but I am given only about a week of entertainment before the rug gets swept out from under me; I must fix this. If not to continue playing BF3 for another year, at least to receive sweet justice as I conquer this unsolved mystery.

That's what I hate the most - it's been over a month and it's a problem I have yet to figure out. I've been reaching out for help at a few forums, and so far nothing has really come of it.


----------



## Pittster

I had a similar thing happen with BF3 really early after release and my only fix was a Win 7 reinstall which is ridiculous but it did make BF3 99% stable since about November. Go figure


----------



## destrekor

Reinstall as in overtop of itself, or format and completely start over?

I've been kicking over the idea of the former, but if I have to resort to the later, I'll probably just install a second copy of Win7 (this msdn key seems to be good for a few installs) and make that a super squeaky clean Game OS installation.

When you reinstall Windows over itself (it's been years since I've done that btw), do you need to reinstall all drivers too? If so, I'll probably end up doing that. I know you have to grab Windows Updates again...


----------



## kizwan

Do you run any sensor monitoring tools when playing BF3? If yes, try not running such tools when playing BF3.


----------



## destrekor

Heh

That is among the insanely lengthy list of things I have done.

Various monitoring and OC tools either uninstalled or disabled (i.e. background process disable, services disabled, etc).
Basically running a cleanboot environment (haven't changed that throughout this "testing phase" that has lasted over a month now).


----------



## Pittster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> Reinstall as in overtop of itself, or format and completely start over?
> I've been kicking over the idea of the former, but if I have to resort to the later, I'll probably just install a second copy of Win7 (this msdn key seems to be good for a few installs) and make that a super squeaky clean Game OS installation.
> When you reinstall Windows over itself (it's been years since I've done that btw), do you need to reinstall all drivers too? If so, I'll probably end up doing that. I know you have to grab Windows Updates again...


Yeah I mean as in, Put Win 7 DVD in, boot from disk, format C: reinstall a fresh Win7.

Again its a bit of a last resort especially if you have lots of stuff on your C: drive


----------



## DizzlePro

i wanna join tha club http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2456315


----------



## squigly1

Hi all,

I have a P8Z68-V Pro motherboard with bios 706. Obviously I haven't kept up with bios updates. I noticed the latest is 3402. Can I upgrade directly to 3402? Yes or no toi direct upgrade, can someone link to a post outlining the correct steps in upgrading. After upgrade is complete I will swap out a vertex3 SSD for a crucial M4 and then do a new Win 7 install. Moving the Vertex3 to a laptop.

Any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## error-id10t

I wouldn't and I base that only on the fact that I didn't have any problems when I've updated each release, where-as there's been few others who've updated from ancient version to brand new and then had problems..

If I was you, I'd probably do 1101 first (last pre-3xxx) and then do each 3xxx one by one. But .. that's based on no science and in theory can increase the risk as you're flashing multiple times. That said, I've flashed 3402 probably 6 times now with all the various ROM updates with no problem.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> I wouldn't and I base that only on the fact that I didn't have any problems when I've updated each release, where-as there's been few others who've updated from ancient version to brand new and then had problems..
> If I was you, I'd probably do 1101 first (last pre-3xxx) and then do each 3xxx one by one. But .. that's based on no science and in theory can increase the risk as you're flashing multiple times. That said, I've flashed 3402 probably 6 times now with all the various ROM updates with no problem.


As for my case, I flashed my board from the initial BIOS release version (forgot the rev. number) to 3402 without any problems at all.


----------



## squigly1

I'm only experiencing a couple of issues and not sure upgrading the bios would help.
The two issue are:

1. After a reboot and opening IE it will, after a few minutes go not responding for a minute or so. I can't even ctrl+alt+del, or bring up task manager. I try but nothing happens. Once everything gets going again task manager opens and ctrl+alt+del works as it then shows the options screen.
2. I have an older MS keyboard, which is PS2 but I have a USB converter thingy (not sure the technical term for it), that I really like but can't get it to be recognized.

I'm thinking both are related to the OS and maybe the Vertex3.


----------



## sticks435

Hey all,

I did a couple of searches but couldn't find this. Does anyone know what the rating of the CHA_FAN headers is? It says in the manual that the CPU_1 is 12W, but wasn't sure about the chasis ones. I'm wanting to combine 3 fans with 8.28 Watts combined onto the header for about 3 weeks until I can get a fan controller.

Thanks!


----------



## awdrifter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awdrifter*
> 
> Question about the Asus AI Suite. I want to set different oc settings in Windows with the Turbo V, but it seems like I can't adjust the multiplier with it. I clicked ON and let it restart my comp, but after that it's still the same. Does anyone know what I need to set in Bios or AI Suite to allow it to change the CPU multiplier in Windows? Thanks.


Sorry about bumping my own post, but I just want to see if anyone had this problem and are able to solve it. Thanks.


----------



## Pittster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Hey all,
> I did a couple of searches but couldn't find this. Does anyone know what the rating of the CHA_FAN headers is? It says in the manual that the CPU_1 is 12W, but wasn't sure about the chasis ones. I'm wanting to combine 3 fans with 8.28 Watts combined onto the header for about 3 weeks until I can get a fan controller.
> Thanks!


Yeah 1 Amp which is W=VxI which is 12V x 1A = 12W

I run 3 fans of one header 0.56A and 2 200mm Fans off the other header 0.6A and havent had any issues


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awdrifter*
> 
> Sorry about bumping my own post, but I just want to see if anyone had this problem and are able to solve it. Thanks.


That BIOS is different than minr, but you have to go under Advanced settings..

EDIT: Not sure why you would want to or if its possible to edit OC settings while youre in Windows.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awdrifter*
> 
> Sorry about bumping my own post, but I just want to see if anyone had this problem and are able to solve it. Thanks.


You can't, at least not with Sandy Bridge. That was one of the advances with Ivy, was being able to change multipliers without having to reboot, IE in windows.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squigly1*
> 
> I'm only experiencing a couple of issues and not sure upgrading the bios would help.
> The two issue are:
> 1. After a reboot and opening IE it will, after a few minutes go not responding for a minute or so. I can't even ctrl+alt+del, or bring up task manager. I try but nothing happens. Once everything gets going again task manager opens and ctrl+alt+del works as it then shows the options screen.
> 2. I have an older MS keyboard, which is PS2 but I have a USB converter thingy (not sure the technical term for it), that I really like but can't get it to be recognized.
> I'm thinking both are related to the OS and maybe the Vertex3.



I'm not sure why this would happen. Can you try other browsers? I mean, if it only affects IE, then someone here on OCN may know what to do (unfortunately, I'd be lost).
There are two reasons I can think of for it not being recognized: the PS/2 to USB adapter may be for mice only (green adapters are for mice, purple are for keyboards). Or, the USB port you're trying to use is USB 3.0. That's all I can think of...

Getting back to #1, is your system overclocked at all?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awdrifter*
> 
> Sorry about bumping my own post, but I just want to see if anyone had this problem and are able to solve it. Thanks.


I don't mean to be rude, but just do it directly in the UEFI BIOS and stop trying to use Ai Suite II. I mean, it's not working for you, so the best thing to do is to stop trying to use it.


----------



## Mercyflush64

One mistake people make if he is using the USB 3.0 port is to make sure the driver for those ports is installed or it is nothing but a dead plug.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> One mistake people make if he is using the USB 3.0 port is to make sure the driver for those ports is installed or it is nothing but a dead plug.


But keyboards and mice don't work in the UEFI BIOS when connected to a USB 3.0 port. So even if it were possible to get them to work just fine in an operating system, they still won't work in the UEFI BIOS on a USB 3.0 port.

Therefore, it's best to just avoid connecting any mice or keyboards to any USB 3.0 ports.


----------



## Erper

HI guys
what do you think about

ASRock Fatal1ty Z77
Z77 Extreme6


----------



## destrekor

So, using this as a sounding board of sorts:

With 2x 560 Ti 2GB in SLI (currently: stock settings), on the P8Z68 Deluxe, with 2x4GB DDR3-1600 (XMP @ 1.5V), CPU at stock or OC'd: any particular voltages possibly needed to get rid of BCCode 117s (like the BSOD Stop code 116's)? I sometimes - and it's hit and miss - see that 117 TDR code in the error logs following a BF3-induced hard-lock (with image frozen on screen).

System and overclock had previously been most certainly stable for 7 or so months, with long BF3 sessions. Then, BF3 updates and that system, with no driver or hardware changes, starts throwing these hard-locks, typically in the first few minutes.
After dropping the OC, the hard-locks seem to be delayed, allowing me to play longer, but they still come if I game long enough... which seems to require a half hour or so with every at stock.

All individual component stress tests come back clean (Furmark, OCCT, Prime95, LinX, MemTest86+, Windows Memory Diagnostic). And I've seen nothing to suggest PSU is letting me down.

From what I've read, BF3's June updates changed the way streaming is handled, increasing how often data is moved between DRAM and VRAM.

Also, I play with a 6060x1080 resolution, so I imagine texture streaming like that might be rather stressful. Though of note, I could produce hard locks (at least, in Single Player/Campaign) with a single-monitor 1080p resolution (though, I think for one of my single-monitor tests, I disabled SLI... can't recall).

On this mobo, does it sound like changing VCCIO and/or PCH voltage would be a possible solution?

I will be testing the Nvidia 285.62 WHQL driver to see if drivers are indeed causing this issue - but previously, I had been using 301.24 since it's release with perfect stability in BF3. After these problems started happening, I began trying other drivers (all 300+ releases, and 296.10) and nothing has stopped these hard-locks.
Even if 285 solves it, I don't want to think of that as a "solution." One, that will hurt Diablo III and The Witcher 2 performance, and I've been loving the 300-series releases because they fixed allow me to play games in 1080p (one monitor) on the center monitor of my surround setup, without any performance loss. Sub-300 releases would require me to disable monitors and whatnot to get a game in the center monitor with full performance. It's much easier just setting surround mode whenever I want to play any game, be it in surround resolution or just on my center monitor.

Main question I'm looking to have answered: those pesky voltages








anything other advice/tricks are gravy


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> But keyboards and mice don't work in the UEFI BIOS when connected to a USB 3.0 port. So even if it were possible to get them to work just fine in an operating system, they still won't work in the UEFI BIOS on a USB 3.0 port.
> 
> Therefore, it's best to just avoid connecting any mice or keyboards to any USB 3.0 ports.


Or find a keyboard that was made in this century


----------



## squigly1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why this would happen. Can you try other browsers? I mean, if it only affects IE, then someone here on OCN may know what to do (unfortunately, I'd be lost).
> There are two reasons I can think of for it not being recognized: the PS/2 to USB adapter may be for mice only (green adapters are for mice, purple are for keyboards). Or, the USB port you're trying to use is USB 3.0. That's all I can think of...
> 
> Getting back to #1, is your system overclocked at all?


I haven't noticed the issue using Firefox but then again, I haven't opened Firefox first after reboots. I'll try and report back. As for the PS/2 to USB adapter, it is the purple for keyboard kind and worked at the office where i got it from. I'm definately not pluggin it into the USB 3.0 ports. I've tried all the 2.0 ports on the back and the two in the front. One other issue I neglectedty to mention is the back button in IE. I'm using IE8 as I didn't like IE9 when it first cma out so never updated. I will go IE9 when I swap SSD's and fresh install WIN 7. So I'm on a webpage, like here on page 747 and then goto page 748. If I click the back button it often does not change the page back. I have to click it multiple times and eventually the page goes back.

BTW, i5 2500k and currently not overclocking

Thanks


----------



## awdrifter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why this would happen. Can you try other browsers? I mean, if it only affects IE, then someone here on OCN may know what to do (unfortunately, I'd be lost).
> There are two reasons I can think of for it not being recognized: the PS/2 to USB adapter may be for mice only (green adapters are for mice, purple are for keyboards). Or, the USB port you're trying to use is USB 3.0. That's all I can think of...
> 
> Getting back to #1, is your system overclocked at all?
> 
> I don't mean to be rude, but just do it directly in the UEFI BIOS and stop trying to use Ai Suite II. I mean, it's not working for you, so the best thing to do is to stop trying to use it.


There are two reasons why I don't want to do that. First I don't need to push 4.7+ghz all the time, second it won't boot into windows if I use anything higher than 46x multi no matter what voltage I use. I think I'll have to push the blck to push the last 100-200mhz. In my previous rig I use Asrock OCTuner to have different settings for different purposes, so I'm trying to do this here. If what Sticks435 said is true, then I can't do anything about it anyways.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squigly1*
> 
> I haven't noticed the issue using Firefox but then again, I haven't opened Firefox first after reboots. I'll try and report back. As for the PS/2 to USB adapter, it is the purple for keyboard kind and worked at the office where i got it from. I'm definately not pluggin it into the USB 3.0 ports. I've tried all the 2.0 ports on the back and the two in the front. One other issue I neglectedty to mention is the back button in IE. I'm using IE8 as I didn't like IE9 when it first cma out so never updated. I will go IE9 when I swap SSD's and fresh install WIN 7. So I'm on a webpage, like here on page 747 and then goto page 748. If I click the back button it often does not change the page back. I have to click it multiple times and eventually the page goes back.
> Thanks


Wow. Then this is way over my head.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awdrifter*
> 
> There are two reasons why I don't want to do that. First I don't need to push 4.7+ghz all the time, second it won't boot into windows if I use anything higher than 46x multi no matter what voltage I use. I think I'll have to push the blck to push the last 100-200mhz. In my previous rig I use Asrock OCTuner to have different settings for different purposes, so I'm trying to do this here. If what Sticks435 said is true, then I can't do anything about it anyways.


Oh, then try enabling Internal PLL Overvoltage (directly in the UEFI BIOS). This setting has to be enabled when Windows won't boot at higher multipliers.

If that works, then you will finally be free to stop using Ai Suite II and get back to using the UEFI BIOS directly.


----------



## awdrifter

Thanks, I'll give that a try this weekend.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. Then this is way over my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, then try enabling Internal PLL Overvoltage (directly in the UEFI BIOS). This setting has to be enabled when Windows won't boot at higher multipliers.
> 
> If that works, then you will finally be free to stop using Ai Suite II and get back to using the UEFI BIOS directly.


When you say "when Windows won't boot at higher multipliers", how exactly would you describe that "Windows not booting" scenario?


----------



## Erper

what do you think about

ASRock Fatal1ty Z77
Z77 Extreme6


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> When you say "when Windows won't boot at higher multipliers", how exactly would you describe that "Windows not booting" scenario?


Oh, I mean "when Windows won't *start* at higher multipliers" (or "load" may be another word instead of "boot").

In other words, Windows looks like it's going to start up, but it doesn't even get past the animating loading logo. If that continues happening no matter how high you set the voltage or not matter what other changes you try, then it becomes time to enable Internal PLL Overvoltage. It's basically a "last resort" kind of option.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh, I mean "when Windows won't *start*at higher multipliers" (or "load" may be another word instead of "boot").
> 
> In other words, Windows looks like it's going to start up, but it doesn't even get past the animating loading logo. If that continues happening no matter how high you set the voltage or not matter what other changes you try, then it becomes time to enable Internal PLL Overvoltage. It's basically a "last resort" kind of option.


Ahh. So with that, Windows seems to be in an infinite restarting loop that's not even getting past the windows animation logo, correct?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ahh. So with that, Windows seems to be in an infinite restarting loop that's not even getting past the windows animation logo, correct?


I don't know. It just won't load. So if you switch to a higher multiplier and Windows won't load or boot or start up no matter what settings you adjust, then enable Internal PLL Overvoltage.


----------



## squigly1

Leaving the issues I have, which may resolve themselves with a new SSD drive and fresh install of a windows, let's get back to the bios. Should I upgrade to 3402 from 0706 and if so, should I do it in increments (like 0706 to 1101 to 3402 or whatever increments after 1101) or just go 0706 to 3402?

Thanks


----------



## awdrifter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know. It just won't load. So if you switch to a higher multiplier and Windows won't load or boot or start up no matter what settings you adjust, then enable Internal PLL Overvoltage.


For me the issue is it would be stuck at the glowing Windows logo screen. I'll try the PLL Overvoltage this weekend.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awdrifter*
> 
> For me the issue is it would be stuck at the glowing Windows logo screen. I'll try the PLL Overvoltage this weekend.


Aw, I have to wait that long? Can't you try it right now?


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squigly1*
> 
> Leaving the issues I have, which may resolve themselves with a new SSD drive and fresh install of a windows, let's get back to the bios. Should I upgrade to 3402 from 0706 and if so, should I do it in increments (like 0706 to 1101 to 3402 or whatever increments after 1101) or just go 0706 to 3402?
> Thanks


Dont go to the last bios... it seems to be buggy... atleast for me


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awdrifter*
> 
> For me the issue is it would be stuck at the glowing Windows logo screen. I'll try the PLL Overvoltage this weekend.


I have the same problem
But enabling pll will increase vcore alot...
Like for 4.8 he was up to 1.46 vcore with pll enabled


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> I have the same problem
> But enabling pll will increase vcore alot...
> Like for 4.8 he was up to 1.46 vcore with pll enabled


Is that with an Auto core voltage by chance?

Either way, there are really two options:


Enable Internal PLL Overvoltage so that you can overclock to that higher multiplier and also use Windows
Leave it disabled and stay at the lower overclock.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Is that with an Auto core voltage by chance?
> 
> Either way, there are really two options:
> 
> Enable Internal PLL Overvoltage so that you can overclock to that higher multiplier and also use Windows
> Leave it disabled and stay at the lower overclock.


No thats with offset or manual


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> No thats with offset or manual


Oh.

Then in that case, I would recommend staying at 4.7 GHz. I mean, I'd only recommend this to anyone who's experiencing the same core voltage increase.


----------



## Geezerman

Hello guys. Are there any known issues with using this ram:

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL10D-16GBXL

with the Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 ?

It's on for 80.00, that's a pretty good deal for 16GB.

Thanks


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geezerman*
> 
> Hello guys. Are there any known issues with using this ram:
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL10D-16GBXL
> with the Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 ?
> It's on for 80.00, that's a pretty good deal for 16GB.
> Thanks


It's not on the Qualified Vendor List, but my memory isn't on the list for my motherboard either and I have no problems. I built my system on July 11th of 2011 and it has been as stable as a mountain ever since.

Here's mine:

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 for $57.99 shipped

(the color looks different, but it's just a poor photo)

Actually, I am very curious: do you need 16 GB? Do you need 8 GB?


----------



## General121

I have that RAM @ 1333MHz. Quick question, off topic, is G Skill RMA good? Ive got one dead stick from a few months back :X


----------



## TwoCables

I don't know, but if that stick was dead out of the box, then I recommend RMA'ing with the store instead - especially if it was Newegg! I mean, if it was like that out of the box, then it's a "defective" product and therefore should be eligible for a free replacement.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know, but if that stick was dead out of the box, then I recommend RMA'ing with the store instead - especially if it was Newegg! I mean, if it was like that out of the box, then it's a "defective" product and therefore should be eligible for a free replacement.


"especially with Newegg" LOL. No offense to you, TwoCables, but Newegg is the WORST. EVER. The order was from them and its been very unsatisfactory dealings with them. Plus that would require me to have every last scrap of paper and original boxing so they can screw someone else over by sending them the bad stick









IIRC, G Skill RMA is good, is what I heard, but I dont remember if that was G skill or corsair the person was talking about.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> "especially with Newegg" LOL. No offense to you, TwoCables, but Newegg is the WORST. EVER. The order was from them and its been very unsatisfactory dealings with them. Plus that would require me to have every last scrap of paper and original boxing so they can screw someone else over by sending them the bad stick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IIRC, G Skill RMA is good, is what I heard, but I dont remember if that was G skill or corsair the person was talking about.


Your experience with Newegg is not the typical experience, and that is why I recommended it. I've *never* had a bad experience with Newegg. Most people who deal with Newegg that I know of are extremely happy with them.

Here's my first experience, which is my favorite because of how it went down: I had a brand new ASUS DVD/CD reader back in 2008. A few months after I ordered it, I noticed that a firmware update was available (I was bored that day), and so I attempted to update it. I followed the instructions slowly and carefully, but I bricked it.

So I called ASUS support. I didn't get anywhere with them even though I spent over an hour on the phone and only talked with one person. I was on hold for about 45 minutes.

So then I e-mailed Newegg because I didn't feel like being on the phone anymore. I explained the situation as honestly as I could telling them everything that I just told you, and they sent me a new one for free and allowed me to keep the bricked one. For all they knew, I could have been lying to them just to get a free one out of them.

The new one worked perfectly just as the other one did, it had the same firmware that the other one did, so I did not attempt to update it. I enjoyed that drive until the day I upgraded to a better one. I keep the dead one around to remind me of what Newegg did for me.

Some of my other awesome experiences are indirect. Every time I have told someone to call Newegg and request an RMA because their item arrived "defective" (this word has to be used), they ended up with a free replacement, complete with a prepaid shipping label for the return of the defective item. So that's why I'm asking that you do the same.

If you don't want to do that, then try it with G.SKILL. For all I know, you may have better luck. All I can say is that if the memory arrived to you dead, then say that it is "defective".


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Your experience with Newegg is not the typical experience, and that is why I recommended it. I've *never* had a bad experience with Newegg. Most people who deal with Newegg that I know of are extremely happy with them.
> 
> Here's my first experience, which is my favorite because of how it went down: I had a brand new ASUS DVD/CD reader back in 2008. A few months after I ordered it, I noticed that a firmware update was available (I was bored that day), and so I attempted to update it. I followed the instructions slowly and carefully, but I bricked it.
> 
> So I called ASUS support. I didn't get anywhere with them even though I spent over an hour on the phone and only talked with one person. I was on hold for about 45 minutes.
> 
> So then I e-mailed Newegg because I didn't feel like being on the phone anymore. I explained the situation as honestly as I could telling them everything that I just told you, and they sent me a new one for free and allowed me to keep the bricked one. For all they knew, I could have been lying to them just to get a free one out of them.
> 
> The new one worked perfectly just as the other one did, it had the same firmware that the other one did, so I did not attempt to update it. I enjoyed that drive until the day I upgraded to a better one.
> 
> Some of my other awesome experiences are indirect. Every time I have told someone to call Newegg and request an RMA because their item arrived "defective" (this word has to be used), they ended up with a free replacement, complete with a prepaid shipping label for the return of the defective item. So that's why I'm asking that you do the same.
> 
> If you don't want to do that, then try it with G.SKILL. For all I know, you may have better luck. All I can say is that if the memory arrived to you dead, then say that it is "defective".


Newegg certainly wont do that now. They refused my RMA because I threw away the original box and was making m pay for shipping when I said it was a DOA and Defective board. They outright refused to give me an RMA because I didnt have the original box. Seriously? Thats just nuts.
I went through ASRock for the RMA. Funny thing, what happened. The RMA board, through ASRock, came from Newegg, and not in the original box. The board they sent me looked used and was even worse than the first board ( first board had dead memory slots). RMAd again and asrock paid shipping. 3rd board has yet to be tested. Havent had time. But once it is, if its again defective...All hell is going to break loose.

Edit: How does a firmware update brick a DVD\CD reader? And how does one mess that up?

And look through reviews. There are tons of people who get DOA boards and have troubles RMAing. Ive bought a number of things from Microcenter. Every single thing worked from them. 100%. My order with newegg? Ordered half or 3/4 of my PC and most parts were defective or had noticeable damage.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Newegg certainly wont do that now. They refused my RMA because I threw away the original box and was making m pay for shipping when I said it was a DOA and Defective board. They outright refused to give me an RMA because I didnt have the original box. Seriously? Thats just nuts.
> I went through ASRock for the RMA. Funny thing, what happened. The RMA board, through ASRock, came from Newegg, and not in the original box. The board they sent me looked used and was even worse than the first board ( first board had dead memory slots). RMAd again and asrock paid shipping. 3rd board has yet to be tested. Havent had time. But once it is, if its again defective...All hell is going to break loose.


Fair enough.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Edit: How does a firmware update brick a DVD\CD reader? And how does one mess that up?


I don't know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> And look through reviews. There are tons of people who get DOA boards and have troubles RMAing. Ive bought a number of things from Microcenter. Every single thing worked from them. 100%. My order with newegg? Ordered half or 3/4 of my PC and most parts were defective or had noticeable damage.


Then Newegg is going downhill. The last time I dealt with them was in early July of 2011, and I had a 100% positive experience like I usually do.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Fair enough.
> 
> I don't know.
> 
> Then Newegg is going downhill. The last time I dealt with them was in early July of 2011, and I had a 100% positive experience like I usually do.


Yeah. My experience with them was around christmas time.


----------



## Mercyflush64

You need to understand that Newegg is a retailer and they need to follow RMA rules that are not only set by them but also the manufacturer of the product they sell. They get people that say the product does not work just so they can get a refund/credit after the period expires. They test every return and if it passes then they sell it as out of box product. Fry's and many other places have the same policy about electronics and it has been that way for years that you need to keep all of the original packing material and paperwork. Next time read their policies before you buy.

I have been buying stuff there on a regular basis for almost 5 years and have never once had an issue with a return because I keep all material until the warranty period with them expires. As for paying for you to ship a DOA, yes this stinks but it is because of all the false claims that they were forced to stop this and raise their shipping prices a few years ago as well. It isn't just one or two returns they get per day, it is that many UPS trucks filled with product. People with legitimate returns are the ones that suffer.

I can't tell you how many forum posts that I have seen just on this site alone admitting that they hooked something up incorrectly of had a leak, power surge etc. and made the statement that they would just RMA it back to Newegg. Just search Newegg and I'm sure you'll catch a few and the sad thing is they laugh about it and complain still that they had to pay for shipping. Everyone else is paying for these fools mistake in higher costs and changed policies.


----------



## squigly1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Dont go to the last bios... it seems to be buggy... atleast for me


Any other thoughts on this, as to which version to update to and whether do it in increments or not?

Thanks


----------



## Trippen Out

So these boards have been around for a while and so has this thread. with that said. has there been a favored version of "bios" yet. I'm currently still running an old ass one and am unsure if i should upgrade or not. I'm looking to break 5.ghz on the daily. So if there is a descent "bios" that is hitting the high numbers id like to know about it. Thanks.


----------



## chew63

Hopefully somebody can help me out....?

I was running great with a 2500k @ 4.7 ghz, but I was having some issues with multiple posts.

So I upgraded to the v. 3207 bios and now my overclock has gone way down. The Auto-Overclocker will only go up to 4.3ghz now.

Why is that?

Here are my specs:
p8p67 pro 3.1
2500k
2 x 4 GB corsair vengeance 1600


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chew63*
> 
> Hopefully somebody can help me out....?
> I was running great with a 2500k @ 4.7 ghz, but I was having some issues with multiple posts.
> So I upgraded to the v. 3207 bios and now my overclock has gone way down. The Auto-Overclocker will only go up to 4.3ghz now.
> Why is that?
> Here are my specs:
> p8p67 pro 3.1
> 2500k
> 2 x 4 GB corsair vengeance 1600


Well, I dont really suggest using auto-OCers. They overvolt a lot. Unneccesary power wasted. You changed the BIOS and that BIOS update could have done a number of things. Probably changed something, somewhere, that makes OCing harder. Roll back to the other BIOS id say.


----------



## chew63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Well, I dont really suggest using auto-OCers. They overvolt a lot. Unneccesary power wasted. You changed the BIOS and that BIOS update could have done a number of things. Probably changed something, somewhere, that makes OCing harder. Roll back to the other BIOS id say.


Thanks for the comments.

After a lot of searching, it seems that rolling back may be pretty difficult and in fact may not even undo some changes (like locking the RAM multiplier).


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chew63*
> 
> Thanks for the comments.
> After a lot of searching, it seems that rolling back may be pretty difficult and in fact may not even undo some changes (like locking the RAM multiplier).


that, I am unsure about. Maybe someone else can assist you with that.


----------



## Narmo23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chew63*
> 
> Thanks for the comments.
> After a lot of searching, it seems that rolling back may be pretty difficult and in fact may not even undo some changes (like locking the RAM multiplier).


Don't think you can rollback from that BIOs -- only real, 100%-working solution to "rollback" would be to buy a new BIOs chip.

Kind of sad that they haven't released a new BIOs considering the negativity it gathered


----------



## sumonpathak

So....can u guys add me?
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2126660

submitted the form too....


----------



## Erper

Little update
some pics after sorting cables








Cant wait for 6950 tomorrow


----------



## squigly1

In case anyone is interested I have decided to upgrade the bios in increments. I am now on 1101. I'll see how things go and then decided if I go next to 3203.

Unrelated to the update, but while in the bios I noticed the following temperatures and I'm wondering if they are high.

CPU: 91F/33C
MB: 89F/32C

I also noticed something called ME Version, which is currently at 7.1.10.1065. Is that the version it should be at and if not, how to update?

Thanks

PS Currenty not overclocking. I'll leave it for a few days.


----------



## Erper

Temps are fine


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squigly1*
> 
> In case anyone is interested I have decided to upgrade the bios in increments. I am now on 1101. I'll see how things go and then decided if I go next to 3203.


You should follow the instructions at BIOS download page. If it doesn't say you need to have a certain version before updating to newer version, you don't need to update BIOS in increments.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squigly1*
> 
> Unrelated to the update, but while in the bios I noticed the following temperatures and I'm wondering if they are high.
> CPU: 91F/33C
> MB: 89F/32C


Those temps are fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squigly1*
> 
> I also noticed something called ME Version, which is currently at 7.1.10.1065. Is that the version it should be at and if not, how to update?


If there is no special instruction at BIOS download page, you shouldn't worry with the ME version. FYI, ME version 8 is required for IVY Bridge support. Just follow the instruction at BIOS download page when updating BIOS.

If your computer operates without any problem, you don't need to update BIOS.


----------



## squigly1

Thanks guys,

As I stated previously I have a few issues that appear to be OS and/or Vertex 3 SSD related as ugrading the bios hasn't resolved them. I'm replacing the SSD and will do a fresh install of Win 7 but figured I may as well update the bios just in case. I probably could have gone bios 0706 to 3203 or 3402 directly but decided to move up by generation so 0706 to 1102, and then to 3xxx in case I decide to go to Ivy Bridge.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squigly1*
> 
> Thanks guys,
> As I stated previously I have a few issues that appear to be OS and/or Vertex 3 SSD related as ugrading the bios hasn't resolved them. I'm replacing the SSD and will do a fresh install of Win 7 but figured I may as well update the bios just in case. I probably could have gone bios 0706 to 3203 or 3402 directly but decided to move up by generation so 0706 to 1102, and then to 3xxx in case I decide to go to Ivy Bridge.


It would be great if you noted your OC's along the way to see if the different BIOS's effected it for better or worse.....and then share what you find out.....


----------



## squigly1

I haven't been overclocking in a while so unfortunately I have no reference. Before I try OC'ng with the newer bios I have a question about temperatues. The image below shows temperatures running Prime95 at stock speed. Are these OK? I remeber when I was OC'ng in the past the H60 fan noise was louder then with this test and obviously during this test louder than at idle. The H60 would also exhaust more heat than what exhausts during this test and much more than at idle. It makes sense, though I could live without the extra noise.



Thanks

Ok some more Prime95 pics with temps, this time overclocking.

4.0GHz


4.5GHz


Should I be concerned about the temps at 4.5GHz?


----------



## polynomialc

I have vertex3 issues also, lucky i dont use it as a bootdrive, its just an extra ssd for me. the drive sometimes shows up in windows, other times ill boot and the drive wont even show up. Vertex 3 is garbage , it will be my last product from ocz. if you have the money change your drives to intel, zero issues for me.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squigly1*
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> As I stated previously I have a few issues that appear to be OS and/or Vertex 3 SSD related as ugrading the bios hasn't resolved them. I'm replacing the SSD and will do a fresh install of Win 7 but figured I may as well update the bios just in case. I probably could have gone bios 0706 to 3203 or 3402 directly but decided to move up by generation so 0706 to 1102, and then to 3xxx in case I decide to go to Ivy Bridge.


My V3 works great as my boot drive boots from cold to desktop in 32 seconds Love It!

See screen for system details bios/firmware etc.


----------



## squigly1

My screens look much like yours owcraftsman, except for SSDLife where I'm on old firmware (202) which I'll update, and that mine is only 120GB. I'm swapping it our for a 128GB Samsung 830 and putting the Vertex in an older computer I gave to my mother.


Care to comment on my temps?

Thanks


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squigly1*
> 
> My screens look much like yours owcraftsman, except for SSDLife where I'm on old firmware (202) which I'll update, and that mine is only 120GB. I'm swapping it our for a 128GB Samsung 830 and putting the Vertex in an older computer I gave to my mother.
> 
> Care to comment on my temps?
> 
> Thanks


If you are on 202 that may well be your issue I would secure wipe and update the firmware before you pass it off.

Your temps are fine I see numbers like that all the time here in Florida with higher ambient temps.

TjMax for your proc is 98c meaning when it hits that temp it will throttle back vcore and eventually shut down if the temps don't lower. Intel bakes this fail safe feature into all there procs. The highest temp I saw from your screens was 78c which is far short of the TjMax so I think your OK as long as those temps were reached under 100% load like Prime95. Understand that the 100% load and temps of certain P95 test are extreme and you would rarely reach that under normal use scenarios even gaming you would rarely hit a 100% CPU load. I hope this helps.


----------



## sticks435

Agreed ^^^. I have my 2500K running at 4.5Ghz, and my temps were 63ish on core 0 and 4, and 74 or so on 1 and 2. Even under water when I ran prime95 tests they would spike up to 67 on the inner 2 cores, but running folding at home they have never hit 60.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Agreed ^^^. I have my 2500K running at 4.5Ghz, and my temps were 63ish on core 0 and 4, and 74 or so on 1 and 2. Even under water when I ran prime95 tests they would spike up to 67 on the inner 2 cores, but running folding at home they have never hit 60.


My temps of my i5 2500K have never gotten higher than 65C on air @ 4.5GHz!


----------



## squigly1

Thanks for the assistance all.

owcraftsman: I'm sure the firmware is part of the problems I'm experiencing. Windows is likely another part of it. I will be updating the firmware and secure wiping before installing it on the other computer. One of the bright sides to the swap to Samsung is I gain an extra 8GB of space. We'll see if new SSD and fresh Windows resolves the issues.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> My temps of my i5 2500K have never gotten higher than 65C on air @ 4.5GHz!


Yea, I think my vcore is a little high and the ambient temps are usually 23-26C. 75-79F. That and I only have to run my rans at 1000RPM


----------



## elbubi

Hello fellas!

Just one stupid tiny question.

Is there a way to power on system with double mouse click en p8z68 pro/gen3?

Kind Regards and thanks in advance!!!


----------



## Pittster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbubi*
> 
> Hello fellas!
> Just one stupid tiny question.
> Is there a way to power on system with double mouse click en p8z68 pro/gen3?
> Kind Regards and thanks in advance!!!


I think there is a wake up from mouse option?

Another question I currently have the following memory GSKILL 2x4GB 8-8-8-24 F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM

My Overclock has not adjusted the memory is running at 1600

If I add another kit so fill the spare 2 slots with 2 more sticks of 4gb Memory will I have issues with stability with my O/C??

Will i have to add some voltage??

In previous years with the 775 platform if you added more memory the controller had to work harder and your max O/C would suffer is this still the case.

If there are issues I might get 2x 8gb sticks but obviously this will cost more in the long run


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbubi*
> 
> Hello fellas!
> Just one stupid tiny question.
> Is there a way to power on system with double mouse click en p8z68 pro/gen3?
> Kind Regards and thanks in advance!!!


I know you can resume from sleep or hibernation with a single mouse click, so I would think you could power it on from a totally stopped state. Power on by PCI or PCI-E in the advanced/APM menu.


----------



## elbubi

Thanks for your kind answers! I'll try it when I get back home and let you know.

Kind Regards!

*EDIT*: Tried with pci/pci-e/rtm under apm menu and neither of them will allow to power on system with mouse/keyboard. Really miss that feature from my old giga mobo (lovin' my asus tough).

Kindest Regards and thanks once again for you help!


----------



## TwoCables

I have a problem with my sig rig, but I don't know what it is. Suddenly out of nowhere, I have an unknown device:



The last time I opened Device Manager was definitely less than a month ago (and probably even less than a couple of weeks ago) because I remember recently opening it to be able to accurately tell someone the name "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers" instead of trying to name it from memory. At that time, Device Manager was clean, otherwise I would have noticed this! I actually open device manager relatively regularly.


I haven't made any changes whatsoever to anything
I haven't installed anything recently.
*All* automatic updates of all possible types are disabled
I haven't connected anything to any part of my computer
As far as I can tell, my system is still functioning normally for everything I do - *even after disabling this unknown device*

Is there a way of finding out what this is? If so, then what needs to be done to find out what it is?

I will do my best to give you any information you need.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I have a problem with my sig rig, but I don't know what it is. Suddenly out of nowhere, I have an unknown device:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1013056/
> 
> The last time I opened Device Manager was definitely less than a month ago (and probably even less than a couple of weeks ago) because I remember recently opening it to be able to accurately tell someone the name "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers" instead of trying to name it from memory. At that time, Device Manager was clean, otherwise I would have noticed this! I actually open device manager relatively regularly.
> 
> [*] I haven't made any changes whatsoever to anything
> [*] I haven't installed anything recently.
> [*] *All* automatic updates of all possible types are disabled
> [*] I haven't connected anything to any part of my computer
> [*] As far as I can tell, my system is still functioning normally for everything I do - *even after disabling this unknown device*
> 
> Is there a way of finding out what this is? If so, then what needs to be done to find out what it is?
> 
> I will do my best to give you any information you need.


What is the Device ID of that Unknown Device? You can find that by right-clicking it and clicking properties.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What is the Device ID of that Unknown Device? You can find that by right-clicking it and clicking properties.


Thank you, Kevin. I see a long list of things to look at, but nothing that says "Device Id". Is there another name for it?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Thank you, Kevin. I see a long list of things to look at, but nothing that says "Device Id". Is there another name for it?


No worries man. Oh, I meant Hardware IDs.


----------



## ep45-ds3l

.. Intel Management Engine Interface.. Or The Bluetooth Driver..

Had the same problem when I reinstalled Win 7 on my SSD. Installed both drivers and rebooted.. Success..


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Thank you, Kevin. I see a long list of things to look at, but nothing that says "Device Id". Is there another name for it?


On the details tab of properties (Default at open is usually device description) click on the little downwards arrow at the right for a drop down menu of what's available. One of the choices should be Hardware IDs.

Probably what *ep45-ds3l* said...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ep45-ds3l*
> 
> .. Intel Management Engine Interface.. Or The Bluetooth Driver..
> Had the same problem when I reinstalled Win 7 on my SSD. Installed both drivers and rebooted.. Success..


Well, I hate to say it, but This ^.

It turned out to be Intel Management Engine Interface. Argh. lol

I should have known. About a month ago or maybe slightly less, I installed IMEI for the first time ever. My goal was to see if Ai Suite II needed it in order to make real changes to the UEFI BIOS. It didn't make a difference, so I immediately uninstalled IMEI. Now before doing all of that, I made sure to check and see if I had it installed. It wasn't, so I went ahead with the experiment.

I guess I haven't looked at Device Manager since that day because I certainly would have noticed this.

Anyway, here's some good news: even though I don't like having IMEI installed (it seems very unnecessary to me), I can have it installed without it actually doing anything that I'm aware of. I mean, it tried to start a new process that I have never seen before called "HeciServer.exe". So I looked for a new service in Services.msc and I found one called "Intel(R) Capability Licensing Service Interface", and I disabled it and now that new process is gone. Device Manager is still clean, so I'm happy. Life is back to normal now.

What a day. lol  I was scared that maybe a part of my beloved P8P67 EVO had died!

This makes me think that Windows 7 must have installed the driver without actually showing it in Programs and Features. I mean, I know Windows Update never installed it because I am very anal about what I allow that thing to install (and it's actually been disabled for over 6 months now anyway).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, I hate to say it, but This ^.
> 
> It turned out to be Intel Management Engine Interface. Argh. lol
> 
> I should have known. About a month ago or maybe slightly less, I installed IMEI for the first time ever. My goal was to see if Ai Suite II needed it in order to make real changes to the UEFI BIOS. It didn't make a difference, so I immediately uninstalled IMEI. Now before doing all of that, I made sure to check and see if I had it installed. It wasn't, so I went ahead with the experiment.
> 
> I guess I haven't looked at Device Manager since that day because I certainly would have noticed this.
> 
> Anyway, here's some good news: even though I don't like having IMEI installed (it seems very unnecessary to me), I can have it installed without it actually doing anything that I'm aware of. I mean, it tried to start a new process that I have never seen before called "HeciServer.exe". So I looked for a new service in Services.msc and I found one called "Intel(R) Capability Licensing Service Interface", and I disabled it and now that new process is gone. Device Manager is still clean, so I'm happy. Life is back to normal now.
> 
> What a day. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was scared that maybe a part of my beloved P8P67 EVO had died!
> 
> This makes me think that Windows 7 must have installed the driver without actually showing it in Programs and Features. I mean, I know Windows Update never installed it because I am very anal about what I allow that thing to install (and it's actually been disabled for over 6 months now anyway).


Yeah, Intel MEI was the first thing that crossed my mind but I had let you verify using the Hardware IDs (it should be the same as what I have). Anyway, nice to know you got it sorted


----------



## It6guru

I was wondering if anyone figured out an fix for the sleep issue yet. I have a P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3. I was reading around and thinking that updating the MEI OROM would fix the problem, but not exactly sure where to get the update from.


----------



## General121

Sleep issue? what issue?

Well, im probably answering my own question but sometimes when I set it to sleep I cant get it back awake no matter what. Have to kill it ; /


----------



## TwoCables

I'm not 100% sure, but I think that disabling Internal PLL Overvoltage is what solves the sleep issue.


----------



## It6guru

Already did that...doesn't work :/


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pittster*
> 
> I think there is a wake up from mouse option?
> Another question I currently have the following memory GSKILL 2x4GB 8-8-8-24 F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM
> My Overclock has not adjusted the memory is running at 1600
> If I add another kit so fill the spare 2 slots with 2 more sticks of 4gb Memory will I have issues with stability with my O/C??
> Will i have to add some voltage??
> In previous years with the 775 platform if you added more memory the controller had to work harder and your max O/C would suffer is this still the case.
> If there are issues I might get 2x 8gb sticks but obviously this will cost more in the long run


There's a moderate chance you won't be able to use 2 kits (even identical) on same speed. There are 4x4gb or 2x8gb kits. And with 4 ram sticks or 2x8gb sticks, you usually need a tad more ddr voltage. A bit more VCCIO voltage wouldn't hurt either. You'll have to try. However, if you can switch your rams for a 4 piece kit, you should for better chance at stability.


----------



## sorceror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thogar*
> 
> I just unplugged the whole front panel plug from my motherboard and it thinks that headphones are plugged into it still, so its not my front panel at all.


I've got the opposite problem. In Linux, the front headphone jack works. In Windows 7, it never detects that headphones are plugged in. Sometimes I like to use headphones and turn off the rear speakers (e.g. someone else using the TV downstairs) but this makes it an enormous pain. Anyone come across a simple way to resolve this?


----------



## raisethe3

Got a question for EVO owners, what's the best bios out right now? I am contemplating on updating the bios to see if its worth squeezing a bit more performance out my of 2550k.

Thanks y'all.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> Got a question for EVO owners, what's the best bios out right now? I am contemplating on updating the bios to see if its worth squeezing a bit more performance out my of 2550k.
> Thanks y'all.


Based on what I've seen in this thread so far, I recommend staying with the BIOS that you have right now because otherwise you could end up with nothing but problems. It looks to me like various owners of both the P8P67 and P8Z68 series who have a Sandy Bridge CPU end up with problems when they get a newer BIOS.

I am using 1850 and I am extremely happy with it. Only, I don't remember where I got it from: it's not on ASUS's website. However, I think it was the last BIOS released that did not yet support Ivy Bridge, and I think that the Ivy Bridge-supporting BIOS versions are the ones that introduce problems to Sandy Bridge owners. At least, that's what it seems like so far.

In other words, I think that if it's not broken, then don't fix it.


----------



## Deo Domuique

Guys, a fast advice would be appreciated.

I don't have 2500K, unfortunately; I've the simple i5 2500. So, I can only add 400Mhz.

What voltage would you suggest for 4100Mhz ( 3800 on all cores )?

On auto it gets ~1.290V. I've set -0.050 offset and it seems pretty stable. It now uses 1.224V on linx. Do you think it needs a little more? How can I tell if there's gonna be a problem ( besides obvious lockups etc )?

Also, is there a way to run the CPU at 4.1Ghz on all cores? I mean, not just when only one core is being used...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Guys, a fast advice would be appreciated.
> I don't have 2500K, unfortunately; I've the simple i5 2500. So, I can only add 400Mhz.
> What voltage would you suggest for 4100Mhz ( 3800 on all cores )?
> On auto it gets ~1.290V. I've set -0.050 offset and it seems pretty stable. It now uses 1.224V on linx. Do you think it needs a little more? How can I tell if there's gonna be a problem ( besides obvious lockups etc )?
> Also, is there a way to run the CPU at 4.1Ghz on all cores? I mean, not just when only one core is being used...


What did you use to overclock? I mean, did you use the UEFI BIOS, or did you use software? If you used the UEFI BIOS, then what exactly did you do in order to get this overclock?

If you used software, then what exactly did you do in order to get this overclock?


----------



## Deo Domuique

In BIOS I changed the AI Tuner from Auto to Manual and options appeared.

I found an image which shows exactly what I changed: http://media.bestofmicro.com/K/5/275477/original/asus_p8p67-pro_bios1.png

On that option, "by all cores" I set "41". I cannot more due to locked multiplier. If you scroll down there's the option for the voltage. I left it to Offset and below I set -0.050v.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> In BIOS I changed the AI Tuner from Auto to Manual and options appeared.
> I found an image which shows exactly what I changed: http://media.bestofmicro.com/K/5/275477/original/asus_p8p67-pro_bios1.png
> On that option, "by all cores" I set "41". I cannot more due to locked multiplier. If you scroll down there's the option for the voltage. I left it to Offset and below I set -0.050v.


The reason I asked is I'm confused: are you only getting one core to do 4.1 GHz?


----------



## Deo Domuique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The reason I asked is I'm confused: are you only getting one core to do 4.1 GHz?


Yes... Isn't the same on you? Like the normal Turbo... 3.3 default speed, 3.7 on turbo when only one core is being used and 3.4 max when all cores are being used...

I increased the default turbo ratio from 37 to 41 ( 3.8 on all cores, 3.9 three cores, 4.0 two cores and 4.1 one core ).

When you have your Turbo Ratio at 45 and you play a game which utilises all cores, isn't the speed at 4.2?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Yes... Isn't the same on you? Like the normal Turbo... 3.3 default speed, 3.7 on turbo when only one core is being used and 3.4 max when all cores are being used...
> I increased the default turbo ratio from 37 to 41 ( 3.8 on all cores, 3.9 three cores, 4.0 two cores and 4.1 one core ).
> When you have your Turbo Ratio at 45 and you play a game which utilises all cores, isn't the speed at 4.2?


No, for me it's always 4.7 GHz. I mean, it idles at 1.6 GHz, but any load puts it at 4.7 GHz.

Maybe this is the way the non-K CPUs behave.

If you want to show me what your settings are, then you can take screenshots in the UEFI BIOS by pressing F12 while a USB flash drive is connected.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Based on what I've seen in this thread so far, I recommend staying with the BIOS that you have right now because otherwise you could end up with nothing but problems. It looks to me like various owners of both the P8P67 and P8Z68 series who have a Sandy Bridge CPU end up with problems when they get a newer BIOS.
> 
> I am using 1850 and I am extremely happy with it. Only, I don't remember where I got it from: it's not on ASUS's website. However, I think it was the last BIOS released that did not yet support Ivy Bridge, and I think that the Ivy Bridge-supporting BIOS versions are the ones that introduce problems to Sandy Bridge owners. At least, that's what it seems like so far.
> 
> In other words, I think that if it's not broken, then don't fix it.


Thanks for that tip. I guess BIOS 1704 was the last good bios. Because according to ASUS site, the support for the 22nm started with 2001. But my mobo is at 2103 because I am using the 2550k that supports it. Guess I won't need to flash the BIOS then.

Thanks again.


----------



## error-id10t

I think you see most problems and you see other manufacturers having ran into them too was update from ME7 to ME8 on those BIOS updates. For some reason for the boards it failed to install correctly then had those problems but there's a way to fix that.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> I think you see most problems and you see other manufacturers having ran into them too was update from ME7 to ME8 on those BIOS updates. For some reason for the boards it failed to install correctly then had those problems but there's a way to fix that.


I have no clue what you're talking about? Was it directly at me or for some else on this thread?


----------



## error-id10t

Instead of saying stay back and don't update, I gave a reason why I believe problems have happened and that there's a tool that fixes it were it to happen to you.

So no it wasn't towards you and anyone who wants to stay with older BIOS can of course.

Google Intel ME and/or see what changed with the newer BIOS version.


----------



## stone2

Ok what tool would that be cause I just updated a stable 1101 bios to latest 3402 and am now having problems with installing igpu driver on a fresh windows 7.
Brought a new ssd and was time for a reinstall and bios update. Sure wish I had read some posts first but would think asus would have the bios sorted for an older platform as z68


----------



## error-id10t

Are you missing OC features (ie: you can set ratios etc) and iGPU option in BIOS? If yes then

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1038975709&postcount=779


----------



## stone2

Thanks for the link.
I'm not quite in that boat yet as I only have the prob of not being able to install the igpu drivers. Keep getting error "this computer does not meet the minimum requirements for installing this software ".

There seems to be all the usual options in the bios but how would I know if something is missing?
I have taken screen shots of the old bios and the new bios just seems to have some extra options.
I have enabled igpu in the bios by the way.

Any thoughts on why I get this error and does it have something to do with the intel mei driver which I got from asus


----------



## error-id10t

Make sure it's enabled in BIOS.. obvious I know, but maybe you haven't re-enabled after update.


----------



## dos659

Has anyone overclocked the i5 3570K on the P8Z68-V PRO with 3402 BIOS version? Because i need some advise on the settings for reaching 4.5 Ghz..


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dos659*
> 
> Has anyone overclocked the i5 3570K on the P8Z68-V PRO with 3402 BIOS version? Because i need some advise on the settings for reaching 4.5 Ghz..


Other than some basic OC guides and average volts for a certain clock, the deciding is all on you. Slowly raising the volts little by little. Average volts for 4.5ghz on a 3570K is around 1.2v I believe.


----------



## Deo Domuique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, for me it's always 4.7 GHz. I mean, it idles at 1.6 GHz, but any load puts it at 4.7 GHz.
> 
> Maybe this is the way the non-K CPUs behave.
> 
> If you want to show me what your settings are, then you can take screenshots in the UEFI BIOS by pressing F12 while a USB flash drive is connected.


Thanks, but sorry, I can't take Screenshot.

Generally, 3.8Ghz on all cores with 1.232 - 1.240V, do you think it is O.K.? Sounds it fine? As I said, I've set -0.050 offset and on BF3 for instance, the max average it uses is this voltage... If I let everything on AUTO it uses 1.272 - 1.290V for the same clocks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Thanks, but sorry, I can't take Screenshot.


Alright, that's ok.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Generally, 3.8Ghz on all cores with 1.232 - 1.240V, do you think it is O.K.? Sounds it fine? As I said, I've set -0.050 offset and on BF3 for instance, the max average it uses is this voltage... If I let everything on AUTO it uses 1.272 - 1.290V for the same clocks.


How are you getting 3.8 GHz? I mean, did you overclock it a little bit?

Either way, 1.232-1.240V is very very safe!


----------



## Deo Domuique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Alright, that's ok.
> 
> How are you getting 3.8 GHz? I mean, did you overclock it a little bit?
> 
> Either way, 1.232-1.240V is very very safe!


Nice, that's alll I wanted to know, thanks.

You know, the Default Turbo Ratio is 37 and I overclocked to 41 ( I can't more 'cause non-K version ).

I understand it might be a bit confusing for you, but I don't have the 'K' version. Turbo Ratio at 41 means 4100Mhz when only one core is being used. When all, it goes down to 3800Mhz. On default 37 it happens the same... 3700Mhz when one core is being used... when all, 3400Mhz.


----------



## bodean

Can someone on here point me in the right direction for updating my Intel Management Engine Firmware on my ASUS P8Z68-v/Gen 3 mb?
I've read there is a new version out, that is more windows 8 friendly and TRIM friendly.

Also, anyone with my MB have sucess in updating the ME firmware?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Can someone on here point me in the right direction for updating my Intel Management Engine Firmware on my ASUS P8Z68-v/Gen 3 mb?
> I've read there is a new version out, that is more windows 8 friendly and TRIM friendly.
> Also, anyone with my MB have sucess in updating the ME firmware?


http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1037864138&postcount=4578

http://www.overclock.net/t/1004219/official-asus-rog-maximus-iv-gene-z68-z68-gen3-owners-club/6320#post_18118190

Any help?


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1037864138&postcount=4578
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1004219/official-asus-rog-maximus-iv-gene-z68-z68-gen3-owners-club/6320#post_18118190
> Any help?


First link has outdated file, 2nd link looks good. Just need to find the most recent ME bios for my board I guess.

Not sure if this is the most recent/one I want http://www.station-drivers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=3974&p=15645#p15645


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> First link has outdated file, 2nd link looks good. Just need to find the most recent ME bios for my board I guess.
> Not sure if this is the most recent/one I want http://www.station-drivers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=3974&p=15645#p15645


*Hmmm, confusing... same name, but....*

Most recent that cites z68 is MEI_allOS_8.1.0.1248_1.5M_PV.exe 07/27/2012
Operating Systems:
Windows 7 (32-bit)*, Windows 7 (64-bit)*, Windows Vista 32*, Windows Vista 64*, Windows XP Home Edition*, Windows XP Media Center Edition*, Windows XP Professional x64 Edition*, Windows XP Professional*
This download is valid for the product(s) listed below.
Intel® Desktop Board DH61AG
Intel® Desktop Board DH61BE
Intel® Desktop Board DH61CR
Intel® Desktop Board DH61DL
Intel® Desktop Board DH61SA
Intel® Desktop Board DH61WW
Intel® Desktop Board DH61ZE
Intel® Desktop Board DH67BL
Intel® Desktop Board DH67CF
Intel® Desktop Board DH67CL
Intel® Desktop Board DH67GD
Intel® Desktop Board DH67VR
Intel® Desktop Board DP67BA
Intel® Desktop Board DP67BG
Intel® Desktop Board DP67DE
Intel® Desktop Board DZ68BC
Intel® Desktop Board DZ68DB
Intel® Desktop Board DZ68ZV

*But does not cite Windows 8 in the blurb.*

The ones that do say Windows 8 are Z77 MEI_allOS_8.1.0.1248_1.5M_PV.exe 08/03/2012
Operating Systems:
Windows 7 (32-bit)*, Windows 7 (64-bit)*, Windows 8, 32-bit*, Windows 8, 64-bit*, Windows XP Home Edition*, Windows XP Media Center Edition*, Windows XP Professional x64 Edition*, Windows XP Professional*
This download is valid for the product(s) listed below.
Intel® Desktop Board D33217CK
Intel® Desktop Board D33217GKE
Intel® Desktop Board DH77DF
Intel® Desktop Board DH77EB
Intel® Desktop Board DH77KC
Intel® Desktop Board DZ77BH-55K
Intel® Desktop Board DZ77GA-70K
Intel® Desktop Board DZ77RE-75K
Intel® Desktop Board DZ77SL-50K
Intel® Desktop Kit DC3217BY
Intel® Desktop Kit DC3217IYE

*But does not cite Z68 in the blurb.*


----------



## bodean

ME FW is different that what you posted. What you posted is OS software install, no?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> ME FW is different that what you posted. What you posted is OS software install, no?


Yes... Firmware, DOH! I haven't gone down that path.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Can someone on here point me in the right direction for updating my Intel Management Engine Firmware on my ASUS P8Z68-v/Gen 3 mb?
> I've read there is a new version out, that is more windows 8 friendly and TRIM friendly.
> Also, anyone with my MB have sucess in updating the ME firmware?


ME8.1 won't bring you TRIM.. what is your current version? You can update it using the link you attached yourself anyway and for now at least that's the newest I can find anywhere.

If you are interested in TRIM with RAID0 maybe try those new 11.5.4 RST drivers. They are not as good as 11.2 but are better than 11.5.0 - so if it doesn't bring TRIM then I'd suggest staying with 11.2. For Z77 boards this doesn't matter obviously as TRIM is there with any of those versions.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> ME8.1 won't bring you TRIM.. what is your current version? You can update it using the link you attached yourself anyway and for now at least that's the newest I can find anywhere.
> If you are interested in TRIM with RAID0 maybe try those new 11.5.4 RST drivers. They are not as good as 11.2 but are better than 11.5.0 - so if it doesn't bring TRIM then I'd suggest staying with 11.2. For Z77 boards this doesn't matter obviously as TRIM is there with any of those versions.


How were you able to tell that the 11.5 drivers are not as good as the 11.2?


----------



## aplayerg

I just had to get a new P8P67 mobo and would like to join!

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2507799


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How were you able to tell that the 11.5 drivers are not as good as the 11.2?


Just using Anvil bench.

The 11.5.4 drivers gave better results than either 12.0 or 11.5.0 (and supposedly doesn't have that memory leak either) while 11.2 drivers give better results than 11.5.4 (though this is just my setup in RAID0).


----------



## looks

anyone with P8P67 tried out the new bios 3509 (2012.09.07 update)? I'm still on 1850.


----------



## Deo Domuique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looks*
> 
> anyone with P8P67 tried out the new bios 3509 (2012.09.07 update)? I'm still on 1850.


I ran 20 mins linx, I played 30 mins BF3 with no problem so far.

If you try to update, watch out about how the process should be done, 'cause you know, one version needs double install ( v. 3207 ).

By the way, you better update, 'cause every bios released claim "system stability" and some other fixes. Unless the problems caused by the new CPU compatibility list etc... Then, maybe is better to stay with your old BIOS. I don't know. I've updated every BIOS released since I got the B1 revision with 0407-something and all in Windows with the ASUS-update.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looks*
> 
> anyone with P8P67 tried out the new bios 3509 (2012.09.07 update)? I'm still on 1850.


I wouldn't update because I've seen too many posts in this thread from people who have nothing but problems after updating to one of these newer BIOS versions. These are mostly people who still have Sandy Bridge.


----------



## looks

didn't update cause i heard of the "no sound" issue on later bios versions, just wanted to ask if 3509 was any good, guess I'll say on 1850 then, never had a problem with this version.


----------



## TwoCables

Exactly; if it's not broken, then don't fix it.  I'm still happily using 1850.


----------



## Deo Domuique

I don't know anything about no-sound issue, but I've a discrete sound card, not the integrated. I guess I avoided troubles by luck.


----------



## stone2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stone2*
> 
> Ok what tool would that be cause I just updated a stable 1101 bios to latest 3402 and am now having problems with installing igpu driver on a fresh windows 7.
> Brought a new ssd and was time for a reinstall and bios update. Sure wish I had read some posts first but would think asus would have the bios sorted for an older platform as z68


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stone2*
> 
> Thanks for the link.
> I'm not quite in that boat yet as I only have the prob of not being able to install the igpu drivers. Keep getting error "this computer does not meet the minimum requirements for installing this software ".
> There seems to be all the usual options in the bios but how would I know if something is missing?
> I have taken screen shots of the old bios and the new bios just seems to have some extra options.
> I have enabled igpu in the bios by the way.
> Any thoughts on why I get this error and does it have something to do with the intel mei driver which I got from asus


Just and update on what I did to over come my problem installing igpu.
I downloaded the latest mei driver from intels website and was getting the error when tying to install the igpu driver so I went to device manager and let that download the mei driver and then had no trouble installing the igpu driver. Weird!!! but all is working fine now.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stone2*
> 
> Just and update on what I did to over come my problem installing igpu.
> I downloaded the latest mei driver from intels website and was getting the error when tying to install the igpu driver so I went to device manager and let that download the mei driver and then had no trouble installing the igpu driver. Weird!!! but all is working fine now.


Come to think of it I don't think I have ever used the iGPU from intel's site directly. Been running what ever Driver's Windows 7 found for it lol.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Just using Anvil bench.
> The 11.5.4 drivers gave better results than either 12.0 or 11.5.0 (and supposedly doesn't have that memory leak either) while 11.2 drivers give better results than 11.5.4 (though this is just my setup in RAID0).


Oh ok. Wait, where did you see 12.0?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. Wait, where did you see 12.0?


It's a beta:

http://www.station-drivers.com/page/intel%20raid.htm

http://www.station-drivers.com/telechargement/intel/sata/intel_rst_12.0.01013beta(www.station-drivers.com).exe

It seems to me that this is usually the site where unpublished drivers are usually found (but this site isn't only about unpublished drivers).


----------



## drBlahMan

Is there anybody using an Ivy Bridge cpu with the P8Z68 DELUXE Gen3*?* If so, were there any problems*?*

Thanks in advance


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's a beta:
> 
> http://www.station-drivers.com/page/intel%20raid.htm
> 
> http://www.station-drivers.com/telechargement/intel/sata/intel_rst_12.0.01013beta(www.station-drivers.com).exe
> 
> It seems to me that this is usually the site where unpublished drivers are usually found (but this site isn't only about unpublished drivers).


Yup, I use that site extensively for my driver updates. Thanks.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Is there anybody using an Ivy Bridge cpu with the P8Z68 DELUXE Gen3*?* If so, were there any problems*?*
> Thanks in advance


I dont know anyone ding that, though im sure there are people out there doing it but theres is a certain bios update you need to make it work.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Is there anybody using an Ivy Bridge cpu with the P8Z68 DELUXE Gen3*?* If so, were there any problems*?*
> Thanks in advance


This is Ivy Bridge on P8Z68-V GEN3 board:-
http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/7360#post_17767947

You will need to update BIOS to support newer processors. Check out Asus support page for your motherboard.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> "Is there anybody using an Ivy Bridge cpu with the P8Z68 DELUXE Gen3? If so, were there any problems?
> Thanks in advance"


Yes, as *kizwan* notes, I have a Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 that I had a 2500K on it, and then when I bought the 3770K all I needed to do was upgrade my BIOS to one that supported the IB processors and it has worked fine. No problems at all.

My MB is running BIOS 3204 right now, but there are newer ones. First make sure your current BIOS is OK or not because if it does support IB, and it runs good for you already, then you may just want to stick with it and not risk the BIOS upgrade. If not, then look for the latest BIOS for your MB on the Asus site and it should work once you upgrade to it.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!


----------



## PCWargamer

@*General121* - I love you comments on why you do not like Apple/Macs! And totally agree....


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> @*General121* - I love you comments on why you do not like Apple/Macs! And totally agree....


thanks haha. Also, how was that jump from 2500k to 3770k?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> thanks haha. Also, how was that jump from 2500k to 3770k?


It was worth it. I loved the 2500k. Great chip. Still have it in the Kids' rig. I would not have gone from it to a 3570k, but going to the 3770k has been great for me. No diff in any games, but lots of fun with OC'ing the new chip and running benches and such!


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Good luck and let us know how it goes!


Thanks


----------



## Lionheart1980

*Add me as well!!.. i find this forum so helpful and detailed. Good work guys*.


----------



## superman2k2

Hello everyone I just build a new gamming rig and all is fine but I cant but my EVGA 550TI superclock cards into SLI mode. Nvidia control panel see both cards as seperate cards. I connected them one at at time they both work,Tried both PCIe slots both work, Tried 3 differant SLI bridges no go, Uninstalled and Reinstalled drivers still nothing . GPU-Z shows both cards but at the bottem it say SLI disabled.I was wondering if there is a setting or something in the bios or any idea would help. Please help me someone.

Rigg Setup
Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3
2x 550TI superclocked Bios 306.23
I5 2500k
4 GB memory
Antec EarthWatts EA-650 watt PSU
Window 7 64 bit


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superman2k2*
> 
> Hello everyone I just build a new gamming rig and all is fine but I cant but my EVGA 550TI superclock cards into SLI mode. Nvidia control panel see both cards as seperate cards. I connected them one at at time they both work,Tried both PCIe slots both work, Tried 3 differant SLI bridges no go, Uninstalled and Reinstalled drivers still nothing . GPU-Z shows both cards but at the bottem it say SLI disabled.I was wondering if there is a setting or something in the bios or any idea would help. Please help me someone.
> 
> Rigg Setup
> Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3
> 2x 550TI superclocked Bios 306.23
> I5 2500k
> 4 GB memory
> Antec EarthWatts EA-650 watt PSU
> Window 7 64 bit



You must first have identical graphics cards (one card first with drivers installed is best)
Sli bridge must be attached
You must go into NVCP and tick the box to enable SLI don't forget to scroll down to click apply followed by restarting the system for the changes to take effect.
For dual card SLI you must have cards in slot 2 & 5 (PCIe 2.0 x16_1 & PCIe 2.0 x16_2)

If this fails then reset bios to optimized defaults and try again to eliminate an errant bios setting.

If that fails safely remove one GPU then reboot. uninstall your GPU drivers followed by immediately booting in to safe mode to completely remove all Nvidia drivers and software. Use driver sweeper or similar> boot back into windows again and cancel any driver installations if possible and reinstall latest WHQL driver package > shut down install additional GPU in recommended slot w/sli bridge and boot to windows then run driver package again > reboot back to windows and enable SLI in NVCP if not already enabled make sure again to click apply and reboot for changes to take effect > report back your progress. GL


----------



## ExGreyFox

Hello,

Here is a question that I should have asked a long time ago. I am still curious to this day of what exactly went wrong. When I first built the system in my sig, I had a terrible time getting windows installed. Windows installation would skip important steps, it took forever to install windows. Once I made it into windows, I would BSOD like crazy while installing any of the drivers for my hardware. I was at a loss. Then I realized that I had installed my MSI 6970 in the PCIe x16_2 grey x8 mode slot of my mobo. I didn't think that this would have caused anything to go wrong but I went ahead and popped it into the PCIe x16_1 slot anyways. And to my surprise I was back into a stable crash free windows. At the time I was using the very first BIOS, 0301. Now I'm at 3402.

Shouldn't a single x16 PCIe card be able to run in the grey x8 slot?? I mean i know there will be some tiny performance loss because of it but to be so incredibly unstble because of it?? Can someone please enlighten me? I'm scared to plug my card in the grey slot to see if it still behaves the same way. Any ideas?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExGreyFox*
> 
> Hello,
> Here is a question that I should have asked a long time ago. I am still curious to this day of what exactly went wrong. When I first built the system in my sig, I had a terrible time getting windows installed. Windows installation would skip important steps, it took forever to install windows. Once I made it into windows, I would BSOD like crazy while installing any of the drivers for my hardware. I was at a loss. Then I realized that I had installed my MSI 6970 in the PCIe x16_2 grey x8 mode slot of my mobo. I didn't think that this would have caused anything to go wrong but I went ahead and popped it into the PCIe x16_1 slot anyways. And to my surprise I was back into a stable crash free windows. At the time I was using the very first BIOS, 0301. Now I'm at 3402.
> Shouldn't a single x16 PCIe card be able to run in the grey x8 slot?? I mean i know there will be some tiny performance loss because of it but to be so incredibly unstble because of it?? Can someone please enlighten me? I'm scared to plug my card in the grey slot to see if it still behaves the same way. Any ideas?


It could be a bad lane, but I dont see how a PCI lane would cause that...

Hey guys, ive got a question too. Do any of your guys PCs randomly lockup and play a "zzzzzzzz!!!" kind of noise into the audio (headphones or speakers)? I have put off this issue for a long time and need to address it. My CPU is OCd to 4.7GHz but has passed like 10-13hrs of prime95 and countless hours of folding. It appears to be random and happens in any game, not limited to one or two games.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> It could be a bad lane, but I dont see how a PCI lane would cause that...
> Hey guys, ive got a question too. Do any of your guys PCs randomly lockup and play a "zzzzzzzz!!!" kind of noise into the audio (headphones or speakers)? I have put off this issue for a long time and need to address it. My CPU is OCd to 4.7GHz but has passed like 10-13hrs of prime95 and countless hours of folding. It appears to be random and happens in any game, not limited to one or two games.


Most likely route I would take if I had that issue would be to put BIOS back to default and remove the OC - run at stock and see if the problem goes away or not. If not, reload MB drivers, particularly for the onboard sound (or sound board drivers if you have one). If that does not work, then other divers may need to be updated. Maybe reload Windows if all that fails. Last, it might just be a MB HW problem....


----------



## ExGreyFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> It could be a bad lane, but I dont see how a PCI lane would cause that...
> Hey guys, ive got a question too. Do any of your guys PCs randomly lockup and play a "zzzzzzzz!!!" kind of noise into the audio (headphones or speakers)? I have put off this issue for a long time and need to address it. My CPU is OCd to 4.7GHz but has passed like 10-13hrs of prime95 and countless hours of folding. It appears to be random and happens in any game, not limited to one or two games.


I think I have it down to this:From what I've read around, its a common issue when using just one GPU and sticking it in any slot not closest to the CPU. When you use the 2nd slot it places both slots at 8x (it assumes dual GPU).


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExGreyFox*
> 
> I think I have it down to this:From what I've read around, its a common issue when using just one GPU and sticking it in any slot not closest to the CPU. When you use the 2nd slot it places both slots at 8x (it assumes dual GPU).


Interesting *ExGreyFox*. *General121*, give this a try and let us know if it works. I'd like to know if it does. - thanks!


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Interesting *ExGreyFox*. *General121*, give this a try and let us know if it works. I'd like to know if it does. - thanks!


I cant fit that into that slot. It would hit my HDD








But I had my 450 there before I had my 670 and it still locked up randomly I believe.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I cant fit that into that slot. It would hit my HDD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had my 450 there before I had my 670 and it still locked up randomly I believe.


Darn. Well, try the sugestions I made prior to that idea. Wish that had fixed it though....(you could still dismount your HDD for a test - open your case and move HDD and connect cables/power with it laying to the side, and put GPU in proper slot, and see if that works)

Also, I think I have had your problem happen to me a couple of times when I had my GPUs OC'ed real high. When I brought the OCs down some, the problem went away. If your GPU is OC'ed, then try it at stock. In fact, try everything at stock before doing anything else and hope that fixes it!


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Darn. Well, try the sugestions I made prior to that idea. Wish that had fixed it though....(you could still dismount your HDD for a test - open your case and move HDD and connect cables/power with it laying to the side, and put GPU in proper slot, and see if that works)
> Also, I think I have had your problem happen to me a couple of times when I had my GPUs OC'ed real high. When I brought the OCs down some, the problem went away. If your GPU is OC'ed, then try it at stock. In fact, try everything at stock before doing anything else and hope that fixes it!


My GPU is at stock. It cant get 1200mhz stable, i think. Im a little discouraged to do that, its in an annoying but good spot haha


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> My GPU is at stock. It cant get 1200mhz stable, i think. Im a little discouraged to do that, its in an annoying but good spot haha


Ok. Then try putting the BIOS back to default and no cpu OC to see if that clears the problem. If not, then try moving the HDD (lay to side w/cables attached) to let the GPU into the first pci slot. Or try with your old GPU for awhile. If that does not work you can update and/or uninstall all the drivers and reinstall them. And last, but not funest, reinnstall windows. Unless you can find some better ideas or a cause to the specific problem on another web forum. If you can find a fix, let us know what it was!


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Ok. Then try putting the BIOS back to default and no cpu OC to see if that clears the problem. If not, then try moving the HDD (lay to side w/cables attached) to let the GPU into the first pci slot. Or try with your old GPU for awhile. If that does not work you can update and/or uninstall all the drivers and reinstall them. And last, but not funest, reinnstall windows. Unless you can find some better ideas or a cause to the specific problem on another web forum. If you can find a fix, let us know what it was!


I have done that all at one point. Hasn't changed anything. I can't do a new windows install on the hdd, too much work lol but the ssd install that I use mainly is under a month old. Still does it occasionally. Running at stock it still did it and drastically reduced ppd for folding lol


----------



## milcs

Hello everyone!
I have owned a P8P67 Pro for a while now and it suits all my needs great (which are not that fancy or demanding).
Lately I decided to mod a bit my machine, adding it some braided cables, fans, etc, etc...

So, I have a corsair H70 on top of my CPU. The pump is connected to the power fan connector and running at full speed all the time. I have to Akasa Apache Black on the radiator, connected to the 4-pin CPU fan connector. All this loop works great and both the pump and fans are controlled perfectly by the mother board.

The problem arrives when I start playing with the Chassis connectors. I bought 3 Akasa Apache black to put on the top of my case, pulling air in. These fans are PWM, so I decided to connect them on the Chassis1 fan connector (thinking they would be regulated similarly to the the same type of fans that I have connected to the CPU header). I then have a Noiseblocker PK3 and some corsair stocks (140mm) connected to the Chassis2 header. And this is my setup...

The problem I have is that the fans connected to the Chassis1 (the 4-pin header) are almost not spinning (spinning only at 200 rpm). If I connect them to the CPU header, they will turn at around 700rpm. Unfortunately, on the Chassis 1 header, they simply don't turn as I was expecting them to. Mind you, if I switch off fan control on Bios, they happily go at full blast. What is even more annoying is that I can't regulate the fans on Chassis1 and Chassis2 independently. Given the Noiseblocker PK3 can get really loud, this is really inconvenient.
Can anyone please help me? Am I doing something wrong? Can I do something to remedy this?

Help....









Kind regards,
M.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I have done that all at one point. Hasn't changed anything. I can't do a new windows install on the hdd, too much work lol but the ssd install that I use mainly is under a month old. Still does it occasionally. Running at stock it still did it and drastically reduced ppd for folding lol


New W7 on SSD removes that as possibility. Drivers updated and/or reinstalled removes that. New GPU in correct slot = no help removes that. Problem with both GPU most likely removes them. Maybe a bad MB? I don't have any ideas for help that you don't already know and/or have tried. Hope you can run into somebody who has more and better ideas than we do!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milcs*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I have owned a P8P67 Pro for a while now and it suits all my needs great (which are not that fancy or demanding).
> Lately I decided to mod a bit my machine, adding it some braided cables, fans, etc, etc...
> So, I have a corsair H70 on top of my CPU. The pump is connected to the power fan connector and running at full speed all the time. I have to Akasa Apache Black on the radiator, connected to the 4-pin CPU fan connector. All this loop works great and both the pump and fans are controlled perfectly by the mother board.
> The problem arrives when I start playing with the Chassis connectors. I bought 3 Akasa Apache black to put on the top of my case, pulling air in. These fans are PWM, so I decided to connect them on the Chassis1 fan connector (thinking they would be regulated similarly to the the same type of fans that I have connected to the CPU header). I then have a Noiseblocker PK3 and some corsair stocks (140mm) connected to the Chassis2 header. And this is my setup...
> The problem I have is that the fans connected to the Chassis1 (the 4-pin header) are almost not spinning (spinning only at 200 rpm). If I connect them to the CPU header, they will turn at around 700rpm. Unfortunately, on the Chassis 1 header, they simply don't turn as I was expecting them to. Mind you, if I switch off fan control on Bios, they happily go at full blast. What is even more annoying is that I can't regulate the fans on Chassis1 and Chassis2 independently. Given the Noiseblocker PK3 can get really loud, this is really inconvenient.
> Can anyone please help me? Am I doing something wrong? Can I do something to remedy this?
> Help....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind regards,
> M.


Maybe those fan voltages from the chassis are temp related when under BIOS fan control and your temps are not high enough for it to send the full current through, which we know the board can do when you turn off the BIOS fan control.


----------



## milcs

Hi and thank you for the answer!
I really doubt, because the exact same fan on the CPU_Fan works much faster, even if it is controlled under the bios and the temps it is reading!
I think there is a major problem with the Cha_Fan1 header (4-pin) controlling PWM fans. I read that it is not a PWM header and that it controlls fans by changing voltage. But why is it not controlling the PWM fans properly? They spin so slowly that sometimes they just stop...


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milcs*
> 
> Hi and thank you for the answer!
> I really doubt, because the exact same fan on the CPU_Fan works much faster, even if it is controlled under the bios and the temps it is reading!
> I think there is a major problem with the Cha_Fan1 header (4-pin) controlling PWM fans. I read that it is not a PWM header and that it controlls fans by changing voltage. But why is it not controlling the PWM fans properly? They spin so slowly that sometimes they just stop...


Are you connecting more than one Fan to a single header? The way I read your OP on this issue it seems like it. Have you tried another brand PWM fan? Do standard three pin fans spin properly from the same ports?


----------



## milcs

So, I am just connecting one fan (an Akasa Apache) at a time. I have three that I just bought to install on the top of my obsidian 800D and all of them behave the same. Hardly spinning when I connect them to the Cha_Fan1. I have two other Akasa Apache on the CPU_Fan and a 3 way PWM splitter. At the moment I have the 2 old fans plus one of the new, all running perfectly fine from that header (which is a PWM header).
More... I tried my 3 pin fans and they work perfectly fine on the Cha_Fan1 header. Intriguing to say the least... Anyone has a PWM on the Cha_Fan1?


----------



## flybuster20

today i bought a 60gb kingston ssd,so i hav to format previous 1tb HDD n after that reinstall OS on the new SSD,but the problem is..when i reboot,i cant boot installer from a usb devices eventhough i already change the boot device priority,somebody help me pls..im using asus p8z68-v pro/gen3 motherboard.. really wanna use that SSD


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flybuster20*
> 
> today i bought a 60gb kingston ssd,so i hav to format previous 1tb HDD n after that reinstall OS on the new SSD,but the problem is..when i reboot,i cant boot installer from a usb devices eventhough i already change the boot device priority,somebody help me pls..im using asus p8z68-v pro/gen3 motherboard.. really wanna use that SSD


Trying to remember...in EZ mode? When you select boot priority somewhere there are two listings for your USB device. You want the one that does not have UEFI in the name... is it that?

Darn, gave my P8Z68 to my son, so I cant look at it to check exactly.
Quote:


> It actually says UEFI SMI USB SMI is brand name Any FAT32 formatted USB drive in a UEFI bios is considered UEFI GPT - because the UEFI Win 7 O/S efi.sys is FAT32 So when inserting the FAT32 stick and booting to it and going into bios, TWO icons are created - UEFI and non UEFI. If you do a mouse rollover on EZ page you will see two HDD icons (USB is considered HDD),


Has to be EZ mode. Doesn't show in advanced. As far as I remember..yes, click boot priority there, on EZ mode screen..


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flybuster20*
> 
> today i bought a 60gb kingston ssd,so i hav to format previous 1tb HDD n after that reinstall OS on the new SSD,but the problem is..when i reboot,i cant boot installer from a usb devices eventhough i already change the boot device priority,somebody help me pls..im using asus p8z68-v pro/gen3 motherboard.. really wanna use that SSD


When your PC is booting.. try pressing F8 for boot options... you should be able to boot from USB there


----------



## replin

I have a P8P67 Evo and I run a separate watercooling loop for my 2600K with a triple 120mm rad and swiftech mcp655 pump, I use 1/2" ID tubing and running Yate Loon mediium speed fans. My temps have always been pretty decent i was getting max load of 60 degrees and ever since I upgraded to the new 3207 bios my temps have shot up a lot. I now see an excess of 90 degrees on full load. I recently replaced the thermal paste with Phobya HE grease and did the peadot and my temps went down a little but now they are back up to 90 degrees. I pretty much ran the auto oc utility and it shows 4.43 gigahertz and 103 bclk for my ram showing 1643 mhz. What is going on?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin*
> 
> I have a P8P67 Evo and I run a separate watercooling loop for my 2600K with a triple 120mm rad and swiftech mcp655 pump, I use 1/2" ID tubing and running Yate Loon mediium speed fans. My temps have always been pretty decent i was getting max load of 60 degrees and ever since I upgraded to the new 3207 bios my temps have shot up a lot. I now see an excess of 90 degrees on full load. I recently replaced the thermal paste with Phobya HE grease and did the peadot and my temps went down a little but now they are back up to 90 degrees. I pretty much ran the auto oc utility and it shows 4.43 gigahertz and 103 bclk for my ram showing 1643 mhz. What is going on?


BIOS issue. I have only done one BIOS update since I got my MB to 3201 because of the mixed results I have heard about such updates effects on OCs and temps. Try to find an updated BIOS, or Google search how to go back to your older BIOS if you don't really have to have it due to some other issues.


----------



## error-id10t

I wouldn't say BIOS issue with little to no information provided.

Plenty of people running that BIOS. Maybe check your volts seeing as you're using auto OC, but even then with your WC setup it shouldn't reach those temps so I'm going to assume there's something wrong there instead of BIOS.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> I wouldn't say BIOS issue with little to no information provided.
> Plenty of people running that BIOS. Maybe check your volts seeing as you're using auto OC, but even then with your WC setup it shouldn't reach those temps so I'm going to assume there's something wrong there instead of BIOS.


You may be right, but all he reports changing is the BIOS, and I have heard others note simular problems after changing only their BIOS - even though that same BIOS does work for others. So maybe not the BIOS, but if it was the only change he did really make, then I'd still start there if it were my system.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin*
> 
> I have a P8P67 Evo and I run a separate watercooling loop for my 2600K with a triple 120mm rad and swiftech mcp655 pump, I use 1/2" ID tubing and running Yate Loon mediium speed fans. My temps have always been pretty decent i was getting max load of 60 degrees and ever since I upgraded to the new 3207 bios my temps have shot up a lot. I now see an excess of 90 degrees on full load. I recently replaced the thermal paste with Phobya HE grease and did the peadot and my temps went down a little but now they are back up to 90 degrees. I pretty much ran the auto oc utility and it shows 4.43 gigahertz and 103 bclk for my ram showing 1643 mhz. What is going on?


It's not a good idea to let MB to OC your CPU.
You should check your settings in AI Tuner. I suspect that it has to do with high voltage on cpu and you should lower your blck to 100 as OCIng on SB happens only by changing multipliers


----------



## owcraftsman

I do not believe the bios is the reason for raised temps only maybe partially. On the other hand If you changed versions of Prime95 to that w/AVX instructions it could explain the modest temp jump you've described.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I do not believe the bios is the reason for raised temps only maybe partially. On the other hand If you changed versions of Prime95 to that w/AVX instructions it could explain the modest temp jump you've described.


As noted by *Egalack* and *owcraftsman*, I'd agree that auto OC and/or changing prime95 to v27.7+ (with AVX instruction set) could both be good reasons for higher temps. If these are not the reason, is there anything else different to your system?


----------



## Delazouch

I just built
Asus p8z68 with i5 3570k Ivy bridge, with 32gig men 2x quadro 2000 SLI linked (main point i brought the Asus Mobo)

i downloaded the latest bios flash from Asus then saved it to mem stick, then started the build of my new tower, when bios booted (I left it to loop for a few mins) then manual updated the bios via the EZ mode.

will confirm the Asus P8Z68 gen3 is still a good 3d rendering motherboard mid range


----------



## Dynastyy

joining Asus MOBO club

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2538844


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2538947


----------



## milcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milcs*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I have owned a P8P67 Pro for a while now and it suits all my needs great (which are not that fancy or demanding).
> Lately I decided to mod a bit my machine, adding it some braided cables, fans, etc, etc...
> So, I have a corsair H70 on top of my CPU. The pump is connected to the power fan connector and running at full speed all the time. I have to Akasa Apache Black on the radiator, connected to the 4-pin CPU fan connector. All this loop works great and both the pump and fans are controlled perfectly by the mother board.
> The problem arrives when I start playing with the Chassis connectors. I bought 3 Akasa Apache black to put on the top of my case, pulling air in. These fans are PWM, so I decided to connect them on the Chassis1 fan connector (thinking they would be regulated similarly to the the same type of fans that I have connected to the CPU header). I then have a Noiseblocker PK3 and some corsair stocks (140mm) connected to the Chassis2 header. And this is my setup...
> The problem I have is that the fans connected to the Chassis1 (the 4-pin header) are almost not spinning (spinning only at 200 rpm). If I connect them to the CPU header, they will turn at around 700rpm. Unfortunately, on the Chassis 1 header, they simply don't turn as I was expecting them to. Mind you, if I switch off fan control on Bios, they happily go at full blast. What is even more annoying is that I can't regulate the fans on Chassis1 and Chassis2 independently. Given the Noiseblocker PK3 can get really loud, this is really inconvenient.
> Can anyone please help me? Am I doing something wrong? Can I do something to remedy this?
> Help....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind regards,
> M.


Hello
Still trying to get people's input/own experience on the above problem.
Help me... pleaseee!
Cheers


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milcs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *milcs*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I have owned a P8P67 Pro for a while now and it suits all my needs great (which are not that fancy or demanding).
> Lately I decided to mod a bit my machine, adding it some braided cables, fans, etc, etc...
> So, I have a corsair H70 on top of my CPU. The pump is connected to the power fan connector and running at full speed all the time. I have to Akasa Apache Black on the radiator, connected to the 4-pin CPU fan connector. All this loop works great and both the pump and fans are controlled perfectly by the mother board.
> The problem arrives when I start playing with the Chassis connectors. I bought 3 Akasa Apache black to put on the top of my case, pulling air in. These fans are PWM, so I decided to connect them on the Chassis1 fan connector (thinking they would be regulated similarly to the the same type of fans that I have connected to the CPU header). I then have a Noiseblocker PK3 and some corsair stocks (140mm) connected to the Chassis2 header. And this is my setup...
> The problem I have is that the fans connected to the Chassis1 (the 4-pin header) are almost not spinning (spinning only at 200 rpm). If I connect them to the CPU header, they will turn at around 700rpm. Unfortunately, on the Chassis 1 header, they simply don't turn as I was expecting them to. Mind you, if I switch off fan control on Bios, they happily go at full blast. What is even more annoying is that I can't regulate the fans on Chassis1 and Chassis2 independently. Given the Noiseblocker PK3 can get really loud, this is really inconvenient.
> Can anyone please help me? Am I doing something wrong? Can I do something to remedy this?
> Help....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind regards,
> M.
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> Still trying to get people's input/own experience on the above problem.
> Help me... pleaseee!
> Cheers
Click to expand...

You can't do that with fans on pwm conector only one fan can use the pwm function. I think that's the issue. You can connect multiple fans via 3pin heather and then only one can have the yellow wire attached!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wuest3nFuchs*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2538947


Welcome


----------



## milcs

I realized that the Cha_Fan1 is not a PWM controlled header. Now I have 5 PWM running from 5 way splitter (fed by a molex) and it rocks!









Anyway, I have another problem. I have recently updated the bios on my Asus P8P6 PRO to the most recent version (ver.3207). I have had this computer since May last year and it has been working great since then. After the update, things starting failing left and right.
- Very often, I can't get my screen to switch back on after the screen turns off (being inactive, but not going into sleep or anything).
- I had a streak of BSOD.
- Worst, all of the sudden the computer started freezing (happened 3 times yesterday). Completely irresponsive...

Can anyone advise me on what to do? Did anyone have problems with the recent bios?
Thank you in advance


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milcs*
> 
> I realized that the Cha_Fan1 is not a PWM controlled header. Now I have 5 PWM running from 5 way splitter (fed by a molex) and it rocks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I have another problem. I have recently updated the bios on my Asus P8P6 PRO to the most recent version (ver.3207). I have had this computer since May last year and it has been working great since then. After the update, things starting failing left and right.
> - Very often, I can't get my screen to switch back on after the screen turns off (being inactive, but not going into sleep or anything).
> - I had a streak of BSOD.
> - Worst, all of the sudden the computer started freezing (happened 3 times yesterday). Completely irresponsive...
> Can anyone advise me on what to do? Did anyone have problems with the recent bios?
> Thank you in advance


Sad to say you are not the first person I have heard this from. Not always, and most of the time BIOS update works fine, but enough times to know there is an issue to make me concerned. I called Asus and they told me to only do so at my own risk (officially), but on the side the tech said better if I did not update unless I had a specific reason to do so as there is this risk. You can google how to reload your last known good BIOS, or see if there is another BIOS upgrade beyond the one you downloaded.

It is not easy to back out a Asus BIOSs, but if you want to replace a upgraded BIOS with an olderversion on a Asus MB, here is one link showing how:

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20110815053922523&board_id=1&model=P8P67+DELUXE&page=1&SLanguage=en-us


----------



## sticks435

Hey all, I've got a P8Z68-V Pro with bios 0802. When I check ASUS' website, that BIOS is no longer listed, so I'm wondering if it might have been a beta BIOS or something. I just put my CPU and GPU under water so I'm getting ready to really hammer it and was wondering what a good BIOS for that is.

Thanks!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Hey all, I've got a P8Z68-V Pro with bios 0802. When I check ASUS' website, that BIOS is no longer listed, so I'm wondering if it might have been a beta BIOS or something. I just put my CPU and GPU under water so I'm getting ready to really hammer it and was wondering what a good BIOS for that is.
> Thanks!


0804 was the initial BIOS at release. So you're using an older pre-release BIOS.







Expect lots of bugs.

I would update to 2103 at least.


----------



## error-id10t

Try the latest...? That's pretty darn old by now.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> 0804 was the initial BIOS at release. So you're using an older pre-release BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Expect lots of bugs.
> I would update to 2103 at least.


Yea, it's weird. On the website below, it goes from 0706 to 0902, doesn't even list 0801 (I mistyped it earlier). The thing is 0801 has a date of 8/15/2011, so it couldn't have been pre-release right? I think I might have used the bios updater in the AI Suit, so maybe that's how I got it.

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V%20PRO&os=30&hashedid=JjlGHLJGJPFfGCFA

I thought I read reports of people having issues with 3402.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Hey all, I've got a P8Z68-V Pro with bios 0802. When I check ASUS' website, that BIOS is no longer listed, so I'm wondering if it might have been a beta BIOS or something. I just put my CPU and GPU under water so I'm getting ready to really hammer it and was wondering what a good BIOS for that is.
> Thanks!
> 
> Yea, it's weird. On the website below, it goes from 0706 to 0902, doesn't even list 0801 (I mistyped it earlier). The thing is 0801 has a date of 8/15/2011, so it couldn't have been pre-release right? I think I might have used the bios updater in the AI Suit, so maybe that's how I got it.
> 
> http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V%20PRO&os=30&hashedid=JjlGHLJGJPFfGCFA
> 
> I thought I read reports of people having issues with 3402.


If you are doing well on your present BIOS I would stay with it. If you do end up with problems, then consider upgrading it. Going underwater should not cause any problem with your current BIOS. It is odd that your current 0802 is not listed anymore, yet 0706 and 0902 are, but the bottom line is, if your not having any problems, and you have no good specific reason to upgrade, then you are probably OK to stay with your current BIOS IMHO.

I upgraded my original 0XXX BIOS to 2301 when I needed to go from SB to IB to get the IB supported cpus to work on the Z68 MB. It was then my desire to upgrade from 3201 to 3402 to get "1.Improve system stability." (for when I OC and bench for fun) that started me doing forum searches on how that newer BIOS was working. I then found that although 3402 was fine for some people, that others were having various problems from higher vcores and higher temps to lower OC and less system stability. Too many for me to be comfortable with upgrading to it. I'm still on 3201 and my system is doing fine, so I'll stay on that until I have a good reason to switch. Also MHO. Others may have other thoughts on this matter.


----------



## kid781

add me in




sorry bad Quality image. Because i take the picture with my old smartphone BB


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Yea, it's weird. On the website below, it goes from 0706 to 0902, doesn't even list 0801 (I mistyped it earlier). The thing is 0801 has a date of 8/15/2011, so it couldn't have been pre-release right? I think I might have used the bios updater in the AI Suit, so maybe that's how I got it.
> http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V%20PRO&os=30&hashedid=JjlGHLJGJPFfGCFA
> I thought I read reports of people having issues with 3402.


I thought your board was the P8P67 PRO.







(glad I got some extra sleep today)

Yeah I would maybe try 3203. I had that with my P8Z68-V PRO and 2600K and didn't encounter any issues.


----------



## CyberShadow

Can someone share some light on this issue I'm having please. I swapped out my 2500k for the 3770k but it will not boot, come to find out I need a BIOS upate to run that cpu. Okay so I go to ASUS site and find the 3207 bios but then read that many are having several issues with it and all want to revert back to an older BIOS. Currently I have 2001 since I just installed Windows and raid 0 ssd's so now I'm just left with swapping out the i5 for the i7 but not sure on what BIOS to use. I have the EVO P8P67. What's the best move here guys??? Thanks!


----------



## error-id10t

If it doesn't work with that version and you don't want latest, then the only other BIOS that mentions CPU is 2302. Try that?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberShadow*
> 
> Can someone share some light on this issue I'm having please. I swapped out my 2500k for the 3770k but it will not boot, come to find out I need a BIOS upate to run that cpu. Okay so I go to ASUS site and find the 3207 bios but then read that many are having several issues with it and all want to revert back to an older BIOS. Currently I have 2001 since I just installed Windows and raid 0 ssd's so now I'm just left with swapping out the i5 for the i7 but not sure on what BIOS to use. I have the EVO P8P67. What's the best move here guys??? Thanks!


When you go from a SB to a IB, then you must update the BIOS to one that supports the IB processors. So you have no choice if you want to use an IB on that MB, and Asus has a table of what BIOS supports IB for your MB on their web site.

IMHO I see two ways for you to go:

1) either choose the latest BIOS and see how that goes - (normaly the best thing to do and will probably be fine, but never know for sure until you do, and it is not easy to downgrade an Asus BIOS)
2) choose the first supported IB BIOS for your MB. If it does not do well (bad vcore and temps or unstable system) then upgrade to the next BIOS and it will probably be better/fine. Stay at the first stable BIOS you find that does what you want it to do.

You could also look around the web for particular BIOSs for your MB that do well. And most of the time a BIOS upgrade will be fine. There have been some isuues, though, for a few which do bring out that there can sometimes be a problem with some BIOS upgrades, enough so that if you find a good one, then it is good to stay with it unless you have a good reason to upgrade. And there is always a small risk of bricking your MB if something goes real wrong, but normaly an upgrade should be fine, and you need a BIOS upgrade if you want your IB to work on that MB.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> If it doesn't work with that version and you don't want latest, then the only other BIOS that mentions CPU is 2302. Try that?


^^^
Yeah. What *error-id10t* said. (Missed that post)

If 2302 don't work, then try 3207.....


----------



## CyberShadow

Thanks guys I'm going to try that then, just wanted to make sure. By the way I also found this thread but not sure if its the same bios file off the ASUS site or if they are modified versions? Hardly ever update my bios unless need be so I'm fairly new to this. I do have a RAID setup so not sure if this is made with that in mind and I would benefit with this over the ASUS site one and if I'll need other updates to make it work which it seems I would. THANKS

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244232/dl-asus-p67-z68-bioss-with-updated-raid-rom


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberShadow*
> 
> Thanks guys I'm going to try that then, just wanted to make sure. By the way I also found this thread but not sure if its the same bios file off the ASUS site or if they are modified versions? Hardly ever update my bios unless need be so I'm fairly new to this. I do have a RAID setup so not sure if this is made with that in mind and I would benefit with this over the ASUS site one and if I'll need other updates to make it work which it seems I would. THANKS
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1244232/dl-asus-p67-z68-bioss-with-updated-raid-rom


Those are modified to a newer raid rom than the asus website ones.


----------



## CyberShadow

So being that I do have a RAID setup, would you recommend going with this one rather then the orginal version or will there be problems?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberShadow*
> 
> So being that I do have a RAID setup, would you recommend going with this one rather then the orginal version or will there be problems?


Have not tried this. Maybe do a bit of reading in that thread to see what the feedback is like from those who've tried them.


----------



## malmental




----------



## hardennoob

hey guys, this is my first post here and after searching the forums, i cant find an answer.

i recently formatted my hard drive and now my sound does not work. i cant enable my speakers as the realtek sound card automatically defaults as "Realtek Digital Output (Optical)"

the thing is, i dont even have a digital optical output, but just a regular 2.1 stereo speaker, which i plugged the cable into the lime green audio out on the rear. has anyone gone through this problem?

i tried using my headphones, earphones, and a spare computer speaker and i only get a hiss/static noise. the speaker option is greyed out on my control panel>sounds. i have the asus z68vpro gen 3.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hardennoob*
> 
> hey guys, this is my first post here and after searching the forums, i cant find an answer.
> i recently formatted my hard drive and now my sound does not work. i cant enable my speakers as the realtek sound card automatically defaults as "Realtek Digital Output (Optical)"
> the thing is, i dont even have a digital optical output, but just a regular 2.1 stereo speaker, which i plugged the cable into the lime green audio out on the rear. has anyone gone through this problem?
> i tried using my headphones, earphones, and a spare computer speaker and i only get a hiss/static noise. the speaker option is greyed out on my control panel>sounds. i have the asus z68vpro gen 3.


Verify you have all your drivers loaded. If they are, then uninstall them and re-install them. That's where I would start. Also, maybe verify the hardware and cables in the case.


----------



## hardennoob

yeah, i uninstalled the drivers, reinstalled, and tried the drivers from the asus website, and i still cant get the speakers to be detected.

i also made sure the jumper cables are secure. i see the audio equalizer going up and down under the optical default setting when i play music from pandora but i still get no sound.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hardennoob*
> 
> yeah, i uninstalled the drivers, reinstalled, and tried the drivers from the asus website, and i still cant get the speakers to be detected.
> i also made sure the jumper cables are secure. i see the audio equalizer going up and down under the optical default setting when i play music from pandora but i still get no sound.


So the windows sound controls do not see any output besides the optical output? How about the software that came with the sound card - same thing? Can you select headphones out from back (or front if you have them)? With my sound card, when I see the equalizer working but no sound to the speakers it is due to the software setup sending the sound to the wrong output - it seems you are saying that there is no other output option than optical.

Have you tried taking the sound card out and rebooting with it out and then re-installing it and rebooting so that the card gets reseated and the system can reload the drivers through seeing the new hardware?

Also, have you tried the MB integrated sound to see if it works now or not?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hardennoob*
> 
> yeah, i uninstalled the drivers, reinstalled, and tried the drivers from the asus website, and i still cant get the speakers to be detected.
> 
> i also made sure the jumper cables are secure. i see the audio equalizer going up and down under the optical default setting when i play music from pandora but i still get no sound.


Go to Control Panel > Sound click to open

the resulting dialog should appear.



To set Realtek HD Audio as default left click on it to highlight then left click the Set Default button then click apply followed by OK and close dialog. This should set the Realtek HD Audio as your default. You can return to this dialog and click on Realtek HD Audio then click on Configure for more option.

If this dialog does not appear as illustrated above please take a screen shot of yours and share it here with any and all details regarding audio setup that you have made. GL


----------



## hardennoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> So the windows sound controls do not see any output besides the optical output? How about the software that came with the sound card - same thing? Can you select headphones out from back (or front if you have them)? With my sound card, when I see the equalizer working but no sound to the speakers it is due to the software setup sending the sound to the wrong output - it seems you are saying that there is no other output option than optical.
> Have you tried taking the sound card out and rebooting with it out and then re-installing it and rebooting so that the card gets reseated and the system can reload the drivers through seeing the new hardware?
> Also, have you tried the MB integrated sound to see if it works now or not?


well the thing is i dont have a separate soundcard. i only have the onboard realtek souncard that came with the asus vpro gen 3 mb. i made sure in the bios, HD audio is enabled.

yes, youre correct. i do not see any output besides the optical output. i dont get how this can be possible if i dont have anything connected to the optical port.

i did a clean install by installing the newest realtek drivers found on page 1 of this thread. it didnt work and i also tried the drivers that came with my motherboard and i'm having the same issue where only the optical is selected.


----------



## hardennoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Go to Control Panel > Sound click to open
> the resulting dialog should appear.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1104014/
> 
> To set Realtek HD Audio as default left click on it to highlight then left click the Set Default button then click apply followed by OK and close dialog. This should set the Realtek HD Audio as your default. You can return to this dialog and click on Realtek HD Audio then click on Configure for more option.
> If this dialog does not appear as illustrated above please take a screen shot of yours and share it here with any and all details regarding audio setup that you have made. GL


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hardennoob*
> 
> well the thing is i dont have a separate soundcard. i only have the onboard realtek souncard that came with the asus vpro gen 3 mb. i made sure in the bios, HD audio is enabled.
> yes, youre correct. i do not see any output besides the optical output. i dont get how this can be possible if i dont have anything connected to the optical port.
> i did a clean install by installing the newest realtek drivers found on page 1 of this thread. it didnt work and i also tried the drivers that came with my motherboard and i'm having the same issue where only the optical is selected.


i tried to do what you've stated but the configuration option is greyed out on both optical options. i have no idea what to do...never had this problem before. my speakers are plugged in but the speakers are not being detected. i cant seem to make speakers the default audio.



here is a screen shot of my sound icon which shows the equalizer going up and down when audio is playing.


----------



## Jj333 33

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2365947
P8P67 Deluxe Rev B3


----------



## tarka

Hi Guys

I have the P8Z68-V GEN3. Bios version is 0301. I want to update it to the latest and need to know the easiest and safest way to do it please.
I have only ever done it once and I killed the chip and I would hate to do it to this board too.

Many thanks guys!!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> Hi Guys
> I have the P8Z68-V GEN3. Bios version is 0301. I want to update it to the latest and need to know the easiest and safest way to do it please.
> I have only ever done it once and I killed the chip and I would hate to do it to this board too.
> Many thanks guys!!


Download the BIOS file to a USB flash drive formatted in FAT or FAT32. Go into the UEFI and use EZ Flash 2. Simple as that.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> When it comes to pure performance, I think it depends on you and what you want and/or need. For me, I wouldn't benefit enough from the performance gained by upgrading to Ivy Bridge, but other people might. It really depends.
> 
> From what I've read, clock-for-clock, a 3570K is noticeably a little faster and more powerful than a 2500K, but when a person is only concerned about the clock speed *number*, a 3570K would be disappointing because it tops out on air at around 4.5 GHz to 4.6 GHz. However, again, clock-for-clock, the 3570K is a little faster. So a 3570K at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz is like a 2500K at 4.7 or 4.8 GHz. Going further, clock-for-clock *and voltage-for-voltage*, Ivy Bridge's temps are higher than Sandy Bridge's. So the temps for Ivy Bridge at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz with whatever the voltage would be for that are higher than the temps for Sandy Bridge at 4.4 or 4.5 GHz with whatever voltage would be for *that*. However, again, and one last time: clock-for-clock, Ivy Bridge is a little faster.
> 
> So, Ivy Bridge overclocking is a little different. Some will contend that it's not different but a little inferior because the potential maximum overclock is lower, but these CPUs are still a little faster and more powerful than Sandy Bridge. So when I say that Ivy Bridge overclocking is different, I mean that the approach is different when one knows what to expect.
> 
> In other words, I think the expectation is to top out at about 4.5 to 4.6 GHz on air just like how Sandy Bridge tops out at around 4.7 to 4.8 GHz on air. Yes, some air coolers can allow Sandy Bridge to reach 5 GHz, but that isn't the average.
> 
> I can help you overclock. You are right that it's really easy, and I think I might be able to make it even easier.
> 
> Let's try these settings in the UEFI BIOS and go from there:
> 
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * BCLK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS): *45* _(this will be 4.5 GHz because 45 x 100.0 is 4500)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled _(*Note:* enable this if Windows refuses to boot with these settings here)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Memory Frequency: _set this to whatever memory speed your memory is supposed to be at stock_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Max. Frequency: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* CPU Ratio: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* Turbo Mode: Enabled
> [*] *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management>:* _all of the rest:_ Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High _(this should minimize vDroop to its least amount)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * VRM Frequency: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * VRM Spread Spectrum: _(this disappears when setting "Phase Control" to Extreme, and we will do that next_)
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Phase Control: Extreme
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Duty Control: Extreme
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Current Control Capability: 100%
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Load-Line Calibration: Auto
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * iGPU Current Capability: 100%
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Offset Mode Sign: +
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Offset Voltage: 0.005
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * Everything else: Auto, except for CPU Spread Spectrum. CPU Spread Spectrum should be disabled for Z68 boards because having it enabled results in actual the BCLK being 99 MHz
> 
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU Ratio: Auto
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Active Processor Cores: All
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * Turbo Mode: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C1E: Enabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C3 Report: Disabled
> [*] *Advanced\ CPU Configuration>: * CPU C6 Report: Disabled
> 
> Now, once all of these are set, there will only be two settings that we will need to tweak going forward (and so this is where it becomes easy):
> 
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: *By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS) _(this is the multiplier, which will be set to 45 for now)_
> [*] *Ai Tweaker: * CPU Offset Voltage
> 
> So really, overclocking Sandy Bridge mostly becomes a matter of adjusting only the multiplier and the voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I don't know yet if this applies to Ivy Bridge too) Unfortunately, it can only become this easy once you know what to do with all of these other settings! hehe
> 
> If these settings allow you to boot into Windows, then can you report back what your full-load voltage is as displayed by CPU-Z? For full load, I recommend running Prime95's Blend test for a few seconds.
> 
> Thanks, benceh!


It's been a while since I have read this thread but in catching up this post caught my eye so I thought I would give a shot at overclocking my P8Z68V-PRO/GEN3 board with a 2500K a bit more.

With these settings while running Prime95 Blend test, according to CPU-Z, my core voltage varies between 1.376 and 1.384. My max temp according to Core Temp was about 70C....this is with a CM Hyper 212 cooler. Is that voltage OK?

Thanks!


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> It's been a while since I have read this thread but in catching up this post caught my eye so I thought I would give a shot at overclocking my P8Z68V-PRO/GEN3 board with a 2500K a bit more.
> With these settings while running Prime95 Blend test, according to CPU-Z, my core voltage varies between 1.376 and 1.384. My max temp according to Core Temp was about 70C....this is with a CM Hyper 212 cooler. Is that voltage OK?
> Thanks!


It's average. If it passes after 12 hours then try lowering it a few notches then retest.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> It's average. If it passes after 12 hours then try lowering it a few notches then retest.


To do that, would I increase the CPU Offset Voltage value up a notch? Currently, it's set at 0.005


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> To do that, would I increase the CPU Offset Voltage value up a notch? Currently, it's set at 0.005


That is if you need to increase vcore. The lower, change the CPU Offset Voltage to a *[ - ]*.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> That is if you need to increase vcore. The lower, change the CPU Offset Voltage to a *[ - ]*.


Got it. Since I only occasionally push my system to the limit, I think I will leave things as they are. The vcore voltage when idle varies between 1.000 and 1.048 which I think is fine.


----------



## malmental

that's an interesting clock, I go about mine slightly different.
curious to the final results.
(night rider unit)


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> that's an interesting clock, I go about mine slightly different.
> curious to the final results.
> (night rider unit)


So far, so good. Since my post, I did change the CPU Offset Sign to [ - ] and the CPU Offset Voltage value to .010 and now my core voltage is slightly lower and my under load temps also dropped a few degrees as a result.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> that's an interesting clock, I go about mine slightly different.
> curious to the final results.
> (night rider unit)
> 
> 
> 
> So far, so good. Since my post, I did change the CPU Offset Sign to [ - ] and the CPU Offset Voltage value to .010 and now my core voltage is slightly lower and my under load temps also dropped a few degrees as a result.
Click to expand...

funny that you say that..... I do a negative offset for my overclock..


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> funny that you say that..... I do a negative offset for my overclock..


I am also doing a negative offset. CPU Offset Sign = [ - ]

Or am I misunderstanding something?


----------



## malmental

correct.


----------



## -X3-

Love that board.


----------



## TwoCables

I'm so proud.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-*
> 
> 
> 
> Love that board.


nice job, even @ 4.3GHz I like the voltage..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm so proud.


----------



## rbhodges

I tried what TwoCables suggested but when I got to the step of stopping the ASUS Com Service and ASUS HM Com Service, the response was that it could not be stopped. I am logged on as administrator. What is wrong?

Richard


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rbhodges*
> 
> I tried what TwoCables suggested but when I got to the step of stopping the ASUS Com Service and ASUS HM Com Service, the response was that it could not be stopped. I am logged on as administrator. What is wrong?
> Richard


Try stopping them in reverse order. That is, stop ASUS HM Com Service first and then follow it with ASUS Com Service.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> nice job, even @ 4.3GHz I like the voltage..


Thanks, I'll try going higher, without raising the voltage too much.


----------



## malmental

here's a different approach on overclocking to 4.5GHz, I this time used an auto voltage with negative offset.
after reading the *hardforum guide on ASUS P67 boards* I took that guide and with my own edits came out with this:
(I'm gonna run it for a while and test her out)

i5-2500K - ASUS P8P67 WS Revolution B3 (nf200)

* auto volt
* hit multiplier to 45
* disable turbo boost
* disable speed spectrum - (some motherboards will disable turbo when speed spectrum is disabled)
* LLC - medium (x45 and below)
* Phase Control - optimized
* enable internal PPL overvoltage
* enable execute disable bit
* disable Intel Virtualization Tech
* disable CPUID Maximum
* disable overspeed protection
* CPU @ 120%
* CPU voltage - offset mode (-0.025)
* long and short duration times, set them both to 150...
* power saving features are auto: C1E, C3/C6, CPU EIST
* set hardware monitor | fans no less than 62.5%
* XMP RAM
* save and exit
* boot into windows

personal notes:
not a Prime95 fan, I prefer Aida64 Extreme..
CPU temp: idle @ 30C (package) / load @ 61C
CPU cooling: CM TX3 with dual 92mm fans (push/pull)
ambient (room) temps are 65-70F and case temp shows 22C.
artic silver 5 thermal paste.



general notes:
default voltage levels with multi up to x43: (1.24-1.26V)
multi x44 up to x47 voltage: (1.30 - 1.375v)

LLC - load line calibration
x45 = medium / x49 = high+


----------



## TwoCables

Just some random notes about all of the settings above:

Internal PLL Overvoltage only needs to be enabled if Windows is not starting at higher multipliers. So, if you disable it and Windows still starts, then you can leave it disabled.

Also, C3 and C6 should be disabled when overclocked with an Offset CPU Core Voltage because having them enabled allows the idle voltage to be too low which can result in BSODs or lock-ups when idling or under a very light load.

Intel Virtualization Tech only needs to be enabled if you are using VMWare (if you are running a Virtual Machine).

Spread Spectrum should be left enabled on P67, but disabled on Z68 and Z77 because having it enabled on Z68 and Z77 can result in the BCLK being 99.8 MHz.

Finally, I see no reason to have manual settings for the Long and Short duration times. I've had mine set to Auto since June 11th of 2011 with my 4.7 GHz overclock without any problems.


----------



## malmental

thanks for the input...
taking what you said and going to tweak a little more.

do not necessarily agree with the 'spread spectrum' and the P67 board though, I disable it too,
it has the same effect.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> thanks for the input...
> taking what you said and going to tweak a little more.
> do not necessarily agree with the 'spread spectrum' and the P67 board though, I disable it too,
> it has the same effect.


Mine is enabled, and my BCLK is still 100.0 MHz. So far, I have only seen it affect Z68 and Z77.

*Edit: * Oh, you have a Z68 board.


----------



## malmental

no, this is for my P67 WS Revolution board...
but yes I also have a Z68 board too.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> no, this is for my P67 WS Revolution board...
> but yes I also have a Z68 board too.


I'll try to remember. This is the first P67 board I've seen that gets its BCLK reduced to 99.8 MHz if Spread Spectrum is enabled!


----------



## malmental

made some changes...
went back to edit overclock settings post..


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> here's a different approach on overclocking to 4.5GHz, I this time used an auto voltage with negative offset.
> after reading the *hardforum guide on ASUS P67 boards* I took that guide and with my own edits came out with this:
> (I'm gonna run it for a while and test her out)
> i5-2500K - ASUS P8P67 WS Revolution B3 (nf200)
> * auto volt
> * hit multiplier to 45
> * disable turbo boost
> * disable speed spectrum - (some motherboards will disable turbo when speed spectrum is disabled)
> * LLC - medium (x45 and below)
> * Phase Control - optimized
> * enable internal PPL overvoltage
> * enable execute disable bit
> * disable Intel Virtualization Tech
> * disable CPUID Maximum
> * disable overspeed protection
> * CPU @ 120%
> * CPU voltage - offset mode (-0.025)
> * long and short duration times, set them both to 150...
> * power saving features are auto: C1E, C3/C6, CPU EIST
> * set hardware monitor | fans no less than 62.5%
> * XMP RAM
> * save and exit
> * boot into windows
> default voltage levels with multi up to x43: 1.24-1.26V
> multi x44 up to x47 voltage: 1.30 - 1.375v
> LLC - load line calibration
> x45 = medium / x49 = high+
> CPU temp: idle @ 30C (package) / load @ 61C
> CPU cooling: CM TX3 with dual 92mm fans (push/pull)


How did you get such low load temperatures with a 2500K at 4.5 with 1.375V under a TX3?! What temperature is your ambient?? What stress test did you run?? My chip is at 4.2 with 1.205V under a 212 Plus in push pull and I get 72C!


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> How did you get such low load temperatures with a 2500K at 4.5 with 1.375V under a TX3?! What temperature is your ambient?? What stress test did you run?? My chip is at 4.2 with 1.205V under a 212 Plus in push pull and I get 72C!


Uh, his temps are normal about, yours on the other hand, are rather high..My i5 2500k stock with a hyper 212+ (1 fan) gets ~30c idle, not higher than 60 max. with 4.7ghz, similar idle, 70c max while folding next to a gtx670. Try reseating and reapplying TIM. Dont use too much.

If I upgrade my CPU, i7 2700k or 3770k?


----------



## malmental

2500K @ 4.5GHz with 1.312V and not 1.375V.... big difference.
my CM TX3 has dual 92mm fans in push/pull.
ambient (room) temps are 65-70F and case temp shows 22C.
artic silver 5 thermal paste.

+1 to the re-apply and lessen the paste.

edit:
final edits made to previous overclock.
been benching, gaming and running idle with no issues..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> How did you get such low load temperatures with a 2500K at 4.5 with 1.375V under a TX3?! What temperature is your ambient?? What stress test did you run?? My chip is at 4.2 with 1.205V under a 212 Plus in push pull and I get 72C!


It sounds to me like you still have to put thermal paste in the gaps in between the exposed heatpipes like this:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5

After filling those gaps, you can go ahead and apply paste as you would with a flat-based heatsink.

If you don't do this, then you'll continue to get bad temps like this. Your temps are safe, but they should be maxing out in the 50s with your overclock and core voltage.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It sounds to me like you still have to put thermal paste in the gaps in between the exposed heatpipes like this:
> 
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5
> 
> After filling those gaps, you can go ahead and apply paste as you would with a flat-based heatsink.
> 
> If you don't do this, then you'll continue to get bad temps like this. Your temps are safe, but they should be maxing out in the 50s with your overclock and core voltage.


I did exactly that. My temperatures are low compared to others but his temperatures are just out of this world.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I did exactly that. My temperatures are low compared to others but his temperatures are just out of this world.


But if your core voltage according to CPU-Z is about 1.2V with an overclock of 4.2 GHz, then your temps should not be at 72. Instead, they should be in the 50s. I mean, I would expect 72 for Ivy Bridge, but not Sandy Bridge.

If you filled the gaps, then the only other thing I can think of is perhaps the heatsink isn't tightened down enough.


----------



## malmental

my i5-3570K @ 4.2GHz (1.216v) runs cooler than my 2500K...
I use the spread technique with thermal paste, not the pea size then drop heatsink..
as stated though my ambient (room) temps are probably lower than yours...

good-luck.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

I was wondering if this motherboard (z68 deluxe) includes a SSD of (4gb) to be used as caching or I'm just dreaming or cofused about this?


----------



## Mercyflush64

I have run into a strange issue with my board that I can't figure out. I recently relaced my gtx260 core216 with a gtx650ti. All I did was swap cards and now my computer is hosed. I made it into windows upon booting up and updated the drivers and when I rebooted that was the last I ever saw of windows. My board gave me the red death light by my memory sticks. I unplugged the power and tried again. It forced me into the bios and after a reboot all I got was the red light by the memory sticks again. I tried just one stick and got it to post after 3 or 4 tries and the same thing after a reboot. Red light again. Swapped the single sticks several times, tried both sticks and nothing. I tried the different (black) memory slots and got it to bios once. After this try I never got it to post again.

I tried slipping in my old video card and it was a no go. Tried onboard and nothing so it's not a card issue since it won't even get as far as posting. Tried the memory check button many times and nothing works. Is this some dead memory or has something gone wrong with my board. I don't have another system available to test either and see which is bad. I thought maybe static did a number on my memory but I never even came close to touching them, or the board for that matter.


----------



## malmental

have you cleared CMOS.?


----------



## Mercyflush64

Yes. One of the first things I tried. Luckily G,Skill memory has a lifetime warranty so if I narrow it down to that I can get it replaced. I just wanted to be sure that was the problem and not the motherboard.


----------



## malmental

a different set of RAM will eliminate / troubleshoot the issue and if the problem still occurs then motherboard..


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> a different set of RAM will eliminate / troubleshoot the issue and if the problem still occurs then motherboard..


That's the issue. I don't have the extra ram to check it out and I don't want to go out and buy a set and them not be the issue. Money is just too tight right now for the guessing game.

It's just really strange that I could get it to post a couple of times and then the error after the reboot. After another day of not even getting it to post I gave up and swapped out my motherboard for an older e8400 setup so I could at least have a working computer.


----------



## malmental

so the board is out of the case right now.?
look for any busted/blown caps.?
(I ask because now it won't even post..)


----------



## brfield

Intel Burn Test gets my temps at least 10 degrees higher than Prime95.

I am at 

It's stable at the moment but looking to lower my voltage to improve temps. I Have a Hyper 212 Evo.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> so the board is out of the case right now.?
> look for any busted/blown caps.?
> (I ask because now it won't even post..)


Board looks nice and clean. No fry marks at all. I'm hoping it is just the memory sticks or the board warning lights would not be set off. Fans and everything else hooked up to it still run. It just won't post past the red memory light of death.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster*
> 
> I was wondering if this motherboard (z68 deluxe) includes a SSD of (4gb) to be used as caching or I'm just dreaming or cofused about this?


Unfortunately, it doesn't:

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68_DELUXE/

The way this one works is it can use a solid state drive that you purchase and install as hard drive cache.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Intel Burn Test gets my temps at least 10 degrees higher than Prime95.
> I am at
> It's stable at the moment but looking to lower my voltage to improve temps. I Have a Hyper 212 Evo.


It's normal for IBT to make the core temps higher, but IBT shouldn't be used because this is really all it does for Sandy Bridge. Prime95's Blend test is the best stability test for these CPUs.

However, I see some problems:


The CPU's core voltage is significantly higher than it needs to be for this overclock
The BCLK is at 103.0 MHz, but it is better (and easier) to leave it at 100.0 MHz

How did you arrive at these settings?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> so the board is out of the case right now.?
> look for any busted/blown caps.?
> (I ask because now it won't even post..)
> 
> 
> 
> Board looks nice and clean. No fry marks at all. I'm hoping it is just the memory sticks or the board warning lights would not be set off. Fans and everything else hooked up to it still run. It just won't post past the red memory light of death.
Click to expand...

hope for the best, but all sticks of RAM tested bad, each one individually wouldn't boot.?


----------



## brfield

Using the default profile shown in the first post isn't stable for me, I'm trying to find a good 4.8 ghz, but I might have to settle for 4.5

Setting the offset to 0.050 doesn't even get me a stable clock at 4.8ghz.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Using the default profile shown in the first post isn't stable for me, I'm trying to find a good 4.8 ghz, but I might have to settle for 4.5
> Setting the offset to 0.050 doesn't even get me a stable clock at 4.8ghz.


But how did you arrive at the settings you have now? Did you enter all of them manually in the UEFI BIOS, or how did you do it?


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> But how did you arrive at the settings you have now? Did you enter all of them manually in the UEFI BIOS, or how did you do it?


It was a little bit of a combo of the auto OC just to test it and some manual bumps. I have changed it to

And that is stable.

Why it's at 99.9 MHz, IDK. I have it set to 100.0 in BIOS, but w/e


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> hope for the best, but all sticks of RAM tested bad, each one individually wouldn't boot.?


Yup, I tried both sticks by themselves and in all 4 slots and as soon as I turned it on the red light by the memory lit up and it would mot even give me any beeping at all. But if I turned it on with no sticks installed I would get the beeping telling me there was no memory installed.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> It was a little bit of a combo of the auto OC just to test it and some manual bumps. I have changed it to
> 
> And that is stable.
> Why it's at 99.9 MHz, IDK. I have it set to 100.0 in BIOS, but w/e


The settings in the OP are just a general starting point.

Why do you have the voltage that high?

Disabling Spread Spectrum will allow the BCLK to be at 100.0 MHz.

I recommend avoiding all automatic overclocking and doing everything manually directly in the UEFI BIOS.


----------



## brfield

I blue screen with anything under that voltage so far. I am trying to lower it one step at a time.

So far, I'm stable at 4.5 with my offset set to +0.030 V. Total voltage is 1.44 right now, Coretemp says my VID is 1.4111 V at this clock.

Now, I'm down to an offset of +0.020, creeping down.

Sorry for so many edits, keeping it current. ----

Upped to 4.6GHz at same offset. I'm trying.

Staying at 4.6GHz with an offset of .020 due to temps and stability. Thanks guys.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> I blue screen with anything under that voltage so far. I am trying to lower it one step at a time.
> So far, I'm stable at 4.5 with my offset set to +0.030 V. Total voltage is 1.44 right now, Coretemp says my VID is 1.4111 V at this clock.
> Now, I'm down to an offset of +0.020, creeping down.
> Sorry for so many edits, keeping it current. ----
> Upped to 4.6GHz at same offset. I'm trying.


Ouch. It seems to me that this 2500K is not a very good overclocker.

However, what are the rest of your UEFI BIOS settings? You can post screenshots by pressing F12 while a USB flash drive is connected. I recommend using Microsoft Paint to change the screenshots from .BMPs to .PNGs for the sake of our user-friendliness (thanks to Overclock.net's wonderful platform).


----------



## brfield

Those are my current, stable settings.


----------



## TwoCables

Wow. Thank you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*


For now, I recommend disabling Internal PLL Overvoltage because it's really only needed if Windows will not start at higher multipliers. So, if you disable it and Windows still starts, then you don't need it yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*


I see no changes that need to be made here. Very nice. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*


I see no changes that need to be made here either.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*


No changes needed. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*


Damn, I see no changes that need to be made here either. Very nice.

Perhaps this 2500K is just one of the many that were made that are voltage hungry. I look at buying these CPUs as a "luck of the draw" kind of thing.

Fortunately, your core temps are awesome (and very safe) for this core voltage! I mean, the mid 60's under Prime95 for 1.440V is awesome.


----------



## brfield

Thanks a lot. This one is better than the first one I had that I RMAd with Newegg when I got it. Stock clocks and cooler and I was hitting 80 degree temps, took off the cooler to find it had little dots on that were risen above the rest of the surface.

I might be back soon if I decide to go higher.


----------



## malmental

^
your RAM is it 1333 or specs @ 1600.?

I'd change the LLC to high and off of ultra.
phase control - optimized
*VRM fixed frequency - 350* (don't really care for that)
negative offset
disable turbo
*cpu ratio - auto* (what's going on here..) set it to x46
C1E and other C states - auto

for the sake of my amusement, try these changes, what happens.?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> ^
> *cpu ratio - auto* (what's going on here..) set it to x46


CPU Ratio is for non-turbo CPU Ratio. *brfield* already set the multiplier (x46) in "By All Cores" field (Turbo Ratio).


----------



## malmental

I saw that after the fact....
thanks..

got tired of going back and looking / editing...


----------



## TwoCables

Why should he disable Turbo Mode?


----------



## malmental

I do.... I know some don't...

regardless, his current settings and voltage is for that of an overclock above 4.8-4.9GHz maybe into the 5GHz zone.
for it to be running like that @ 4.6GHz is ridiculous.
even a 'bad' chip 2500K will run on less voltage then what he is presently on.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I do.... I know some don't...
> regardless, his current settings and voltage is for that of an overclock above 4.8-4.9GHz maybe into the 5GHz zone.
> for it to be running like that @ 4.6GHz is ridiculous.
> even a 'bad' chip 2500K will run on less voltage then what he is presently on.


He wants to achieve 4.8 GHz, so that's why I did not talk about the VRM Frequency being at 350.

Also, he is trying to lower the core voltage, but his CPU is showing signs that it's just not having it. Some 2500Ks are like that, but I've seen worse.

So, that's why I am not recommending many changes to his settings. They're already just about as good as they're going to get except for the changes I am recommending.


----------



## malmental

even @ 4.8GHz that's high voltage bad chip or not, I guess that's my opinion..
I haven't seen to many 'bad' chip or worse as you say, I'd be so pissed if I had one.
I understand not recommending to many changes, I agree.

Just those settings are for higher clocks than 4.8GHz, he needs to lessen the load..
phase control and LLC, bring then down a notch.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> even @ 4.8GHz that's high voltage bad chip or not, I guess that's my opinion..
> I haven't seen to many 'bad' chip or worse as you say, I'd be so pissed if I had one.
> I understand not recommending to many changes, I agree.
> Just those settings are for higher clocks than 4.8GHz, he needs to lessen the load..
> phase control and LLC, bring then down a notch.


I'm not going to recommend that yet because he is aiming for 4.8 GHz. He is slowly reducing the core voltage and his temps are amazing, so he might be able to do it.

I've been involved in this thread alone since June of 2011, and so I've seen lots and lots of 2500K owners pass through here.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> even @ 4.8GHz that's high voltage bad chip or not, I guess that's my opinion..
> 
> I haven't seen to many 'bad' chip or worse as you say, I'd be so pissed if I had one.
> 
> I understand not recommending to many changes, I agree.
> 
> Just those settings are for higher clocks than 4.8GHz, he needs to lessen the load..
> 
> phase control and LLC, bring then down a notch.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not going to recommend that yet because he is aiming for 4.8 GHz. He is slowly reducing the core voltage and his temps are amazing, so he might be able to do it.
> 
> I've been involved in this thread alone since June of 2011, and so I've seen lots and lots of 2500K owners pass through here.
Click to expand...

not arguing that, I made some edits listening to your advice.
I too have been around the block, just not so much OCN..
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/profile-644818.htm


----------



## brfield

It seems I really do have a power hungry chip. Anything above a multiplier of 46 at an offset of +.020 BSODs. I can't get my voltage below 1.4V at 4.6 GHz.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> It seems I really do have a power hungry chip. Anything above a multiplier of 46 at an offset of +.020 BSODs. I can't get my voltage below 1.4V at 4.6 GHz.


I didn't want to say it before, but I have to admit that my jaw dropped when I saw your VID. I was fearing that it was a bad sign because I heard that the VID is supposed to be the optimal core voltage for whatever multiplier you're at.

So for example: in one screenshot, your multiplier was 45 and your VID was 1.4011V. If what I heard is true, then this means your optimal CPU core voltage for 4.4 GHz (44 x 100.0 MHz) would be about 1.4V or more.


----------



## brfield

Well, this makes me want a new chip. I paid for unlocked and I want to use it lol. If I manually set the multiplier to 45 and let the bios do the voltage it ups it to 1.48.***


----------



## brfield

Got it to 1.4V at 4.5 GHz. This is insane. At 4.5GHz I should be in the mid to low 1.3xxx

I lowered my CPU PLL to 1.700V and my VID in CoreTemp is 1.4211V, but it's running under full load at 1.4V


----------



## TwoCables

There's a guy named Kevin who we sometimes see in this thread who, if I remember correctly, has a much worse 2500K than yours in terms of needing a relatively high core voltage. So, it could be worse.


----------



## brfield

Lol, I wonder if Intel will be graceful and replace it?


----------



## TwoCables

I honestly don't know one way or the other, so I won't comment.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Well, this makes me want a new chip. I paid for unlocked and I want to use it lol. If I manually set the multiplier to 45 and let the bios do the voltage it ups it to 1.48.***


sorry to hear it..
that's too how I would feel..

good call @ TwoCables


----------



## brfield

Looks like they will replace it, just have to ship it to them







A couple weeks without my baby.


----------



## TwoCables

Oh my god. I'd shrivel up if I had to go without my computer for that long.


----------



## brfield

This is my second rma 2500k. First one was Newegg. I have Halo 4 and Black ops 2 to hold me over.


----------



## malmental

this is the reason why I have two 'puters'...


----------



## TwoCables

I don't have enough physical space for 2.


----------



## malmental

a good notebook or netbook then for the system downtime.
or have enough spare parts to make a temporary fix..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> a good notebook or netbook then for the system downtime.
> or have enough spare parts to make a temporary fix..


But that would require physical labor!



Well, I do have an EP45-UD3P, an E8400, Tuniq Tower, good 1200 MHz DDR2 (G.SKILL Pi's! woot!), and enough hard drives to last a while. 

Oh, and of course I do have 2 cables around here somewhere.


----------



## General121

Well my 2500k isnt as voltage hungry but it is very annoying. On any mild or hard OC, well any OC at all, it can pass 12+ hours of prime95 once I have correct voltage, etc. Yet it randomly, from time to time, just freezes and some weird, impossible to describe sound comes out, of headphone or speakers.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Well my 2500k isnt as voltage hungry but it is very annoying. On any mild or hard OC, well any OC at all, it can pass 12+ hours of prime95 once I have correct voltage, etc. Yet it randomly, from time to time, just freezes and some weird, impossible to describe sound comes out, of headphone or speakers.


Are you using an Offset voltage?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Are you using an Offset voltage?


Manual. Except at default settings, which im at now, I used manual volts.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Manual. Except at default settings, which im at now, I used manual volts.


Damn. I wanted this to be easy.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Damn. I wanted this to be easy.


I dont actually really know. Silent (maybe Pro? edition) 700w. is what I believe it is.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I dont actually really know. Silent (maybe Pro? edition) 700w. is what I believe it is.


It must be. I finally decided to click it in your sig rig, and it says Silent Pro.

Maybe it's your wall outlet.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It must be. I finally decided to click it in your sig rig, and it says Silent Pro.
> 
> Maybe it's your wall outlet.


Haha, I doubt that. Though the extension power strip is probably old and very generic. My belief is that this chip does not clock well. For example, when testing OCs in P95..Every time it does not pass P95 it is because of core1 (naming convention of core0, core1, core2, core 3).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Haha, I doubt that. Though the extension power strip is probably old and very generic. My belief is that this chip does not clock well. For example, when testing OCs in P95..Every time it does not pass P95 it is because of core1 (naming convention of core0, core1, core2, core 3).


Oh wow. I can only imagine how frustrating and irritating that is. I don't know what else to say!


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh wow. I can only imagine how frustrating and irritating that is. I don't know what else to say!


Yes. Quite frustrating. Ive given up and am runnig stock. I might upgrade to an i7 3770k later and put this i5 2500k in a kitchen PC that, well, everything almost blew in one go, so the 2500k can go in an asrock that is sitting in there.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Yes. Quite frustrating. Ive given up and am runnig stock. I might upgrade to an i7 3770k later and put this i5 2500k in a kitchen PC that, well, everything almost blew in one go, so the 2500k can go in an asrock that is sitting in there.


Oh god, I thought you were going to say the kitchen sink!

I have to be thankful for one thing: overclocking to 4.7 GHz has shown me that for the way I use my computer, I see and feel no difference between stock and 4.7 GHz. So if suddenly my CPU was only good for stock, I would probably be ok with it knowing that there's no difference for me anyway.


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh god, I thought you were going to say the kitchen sink!
> 
> I have to be thankful for one thing: overclocking to 4.7 GHz has shown me that for the way I use my computer, I see and feel no difference between stock and 4.7 GHz. So if suddenly my CPU was only good for stock, I would probably be ok with it knowing that there's no difference for me anyway.


For me it was the simple fact that I know I paid to go higher and couldn't. Intel did accept the warranty replacement, by the way.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> For me it was the simple fact that I know I paid to go higher and couldn't. Intel did accept the warranty replacement, by the way.


Whoa. I am pleasantly surprised!


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Whoa. I am pleasantly surprised!


just a bit of good news for the day.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There's a guy named Kevin who we sometimes see in this thread who, if I remember correctly, has a much worse 2500K than yours in terms of needing a relatively high core voltage. So, it could be worse.


Are you referring to me?









I don't think my 2500K is that bad. I remember that I can set my multi to 45 below 1.4V vcore.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are you referring to me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think my 2500K is that bad. I remember that I can set my multi to 45 below 1.4V vcore.


I sure am! 

Man, I must have a bad memory because I remember it seeming to be worse than that.

Come to think of it, was it that it needs over 1.48V for 4.7 GHz or 4.8 GHz or something like that?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I sure am!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, I must have a bad memory because I remember it seeming to be worse than that.
> 
> Come to think of it, was it that it needs over 1.48V for 4.7 GHz or 4.8 GHz or something like that?


Mine needs 1.42v for 4.7GHz. With still having random lockups.


----------



## malmental

I wonder what batch of 2500K's had the most issues and is the high voltage on some the number one issue or not.?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I sure am!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, I must have a bad memory because I remember it seeming to be worse than that.
> 
> Come to think of it, was it that it needs over 1.48V for 4.7 GHz or 4.8 GHz or something like that?


Yeah, it was something like that for 4.8GHz. I haven't got it stable yet because I'm very busy doing other things but does high vcore only caused by the CPU itself? I'm having thoughts that the latest BIOS for my board has an effect, not entirely sure though.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, it was something like that for 4.8GHz. I haven't got it stable yet because I'm very busy doing other things but does high vcore only caused by the CPU itself? I'm having thoughts that the latest BIOS for my board has an effect, not entirely sure though.


It can be caused by either the CPU, the motherboard, or the BIOS. Other times, I think it can be a combination thereof.

However, I have seen others report in this thread that installing the latest BIOS resulted in their overclock needing a higher core voltage.

I don't know how to revert back to an older BIOS with these motherboards (if I remember correctly, ASUS made this very difficult).


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It can be caused by either the CPU, the motherboard, or the BIOS. Other times, I think it can be a combination thereof.
> 
> However, I have seen others report in this thread that installing the latest BIOS resulted in their overclock needing a higher core voltage.
> 
> I don't know how to revert back to an older BIOS with these motherboards (if I remember correctly, ASUS made this very difficult).


Being able to downgrade would be nice, but all to often companies make it a huge pain in the but. It really wouldn't surprise me at all.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It can be caused by either the CPU, the motherboard, or the BIOS. Other times, I think it can be a combination thereof.
> 
> However, I have seen others report in this thread that installing the latest BIOS resulted in their overclock needing a higher core voltage.
> 
> I don't know how to revert back to an older BIOS with these motherboards (if I remember correctly, ASUS made this very difficult).


It was hard to downgrade before but there is a tool now from coderush, IIRC, that makes this easy. How much higher of core voltage did you notice with the people that reported the same?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> It was hard to downgrade before but there is a tool now from coderush, IIRC, that makes this easy. How much higher of core voltage did you notice with the people that reported the same?


I don't remember; I just remember some of them reporting that they needed to increase their core voltage.


----------



## brfield

I'll have to look into the bios downgrade when I get my new cpu. Going for lowest voltage here.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It can be caused by either the CPU, the motherboard, or the BIOS. Other times, I think it can be a combination thereof.
> 
> However, I have seen others report in this thread that installing the latest BIOS resulted in their overclock needing a higher core voltage.
> 
> I don't know how to revert back to an older BIOS with these motherboards (if I remember correctly, ASUS made this very difficult).
> 
> 
> 
> It was hard to downgrade before but there is a tool now from coderush, IIRC, that makes this easy. How much higher of core voltage did you notice with the people that reported the same?
Click to expand...

Coderush's guide was what I was thinking too. Here's the link to coderush on downgrading the BIOS:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1039296628#post1039296628

I have heard from more than one person that their OC took more vcore after a BIOS upgrade. One of the reason I think coderush made this guide.


----------



## brfield

I am going to mount one of my case fans on my Hyper 212 Evo. It is a 3 pin connector, one of the fans that is on the side of an NZXT Phantom case. Is there a recommended spot on the board for this? And will I be able to configure the bios to see it as a CPU fan? I won't be able to check for a couple of weeks due to a cpu rma.


----------



## TwoCables

The only way for it to be recognized as a CPU fan is by connecting it to the "CPU_FAN" header. So, I recommend just studying the fan headers and connecting it to the one that you feel most comfortable with.


----------



## brfield

That works, I figured that would be it. Dumb that there's no way for it recognize 2 cpu fans this day and age. Want to set up a push-pull function with my cooler.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> That works, I figured that would be it. Dumb that there's no way for it recognize 2 cpu fans this day and age. Want to set up a push-pull function with my cooler.


The recognition begins at the header. I mean, the motherboard doesn't know where your fan is installed; it just knows which headers have fans connected to them, and each header has a specific designation. So if you connect a fan to the CPU_FAN header and then install it as a rear exhaust case fan, then it will still be seen as CPU fan due to which header it's connected to.

However, there's no right or wrong regarding what headers you use. What's important is that you know what's connected to what.


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The recognition begins at the header. I mean, the motherboard doesn't know where your fan is installed; it just knows which headers have fans connected to them, and each header has a specific designation. So if you connect a fan to the CPU_FAN header and then install it as a rear exhaust case fan, then it will still be seen as CPU fan due to which header it's connected to.
> 
> However, there's no right or wrong regarding what headers you use. What's important is that you know what's connected to what.


I get that. Just wanted a way for the mobo to recognize and control 2 cpu fans. Guess I'll use a chassis fan spot.
Will the fan ramp up with the other though if I use a chassis fan header?


----------



## Pittster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> I get that. Just wanted a way for the mobo to recognize and control 2 cpu fans. Guess I'll use a chassis fan spot.
> Will the fan ramp up with the other though if I use a chassis fan header?


Yes you only have 2 zones you can control speed with and thats CPU or CHASSIS I have 2 Fans on my CPU & CPU OPT headers, then I have 5 Fans running off my Chassis headers both zones have different fan curves, I also used y-splitters to get the 5 fans working cause 2 fans are 0-700 Rpm (200mm) and 3 are 0-1300rpm (120-140mm)


----------



## Ellis

I shall hopefully be joining this thread soon as I have bought a P8Z68-V (in fact, the GEN3 model, which I am oh so excited about as it will help me gain mega FPS with my GTX 460, clearly)

Anyway, Gigabyte appear to have messed up quite badly on their performance/overclocking models with the P67 and Z68 chipsets. I hear their Z77 boards are better but they're also far pricier than a similar model from any Z68 line, plus I have no plans to upgrade to Ivy so some features would be wasted.

It seems the Asus P8P67 and P8Z68-V (why the V anyway?) lines are tried and tested - I went for another Z68 model just to have that integrated graphics support there as a backup.

Look forward to receiving it and hopefully getting a proper stable overclock!


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> I shall hopefully be joining this thread soon as I have bought a P8Z68-V (in fact, the GEN3 model, which I am oh so excited about as it will help me gain mega FPS with my GTX 460, clearly)
> Anyway, Gigabyte appear to have messed up quite badly on their performance/overclocking models with the P67 and Z68 chipsets. I hear their Z77 boards are better but they're also far pricier than a similar model from any Z68 line, plus I have no plans to upgrade to Ivy so some features would be wasted.
> It seems the Asus P8P67 and P8Z68-V (why the V anyway?) lines are tried and tested - I went for another Z68 model just to have that integrated graphics support there as a backup.
> Look forward to receiving it and hopefully getting a proper stable overclock!


Does your mobo you're getting have a display port on it? My P8z68 Deluxe Gen3 doesn't have one, but it can access the iGPU. Lol


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Does your mobo you're getting have a display port on it? My P8z68 Deluxe Gen3 doesn't have one, but it can access the iGPU. Lol


Ha, weird. I guess the only use for it is Virtu then, although my current board requires that you have the display plugged into the motherboard's ports to use it.

The one I'm getting has DVI, VGA and HDMI.


----------



## brfield

Hmm, I haven't used virtu much, and that's what it's for. Literally everything but display outputs.


----------



## malmental

http://www.lucidlogix.com/
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/motherboards/2011/05/13/what-is-the-intel-z68-chipset/3


----------



## Faithh

Why doesn't Asus update the drivers for Windows 8? I haven't seen a new bios version since end May..

Did they stop supporting the z68 chipsets?


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Why doesn't Asus update the drivers for Windows 8? I haven't seen a new bios version since end May..
> Did they stop supporting the z68 chipsets?


I didn't even use many of the ASUS drivers - Windows Update installed a bunch for me which appeared to be newer than many of the ones on the ASUS site. But everything works great, no problems with any of the Windows 8 drivers here.

Also, do they need to update the UEFI? Mine's been rock solid.


----------



## TwoCables

Mine's been rock solid too, and I'm using a version that I can't find anymore: 1850. It's over a year old, but that actually doesn't mean I have to get a newer one.


----------



## Mercyflush64

The only drivers I saw on the website for windows 8 that needed an update that windows didn't already do was for the motherboard chipset, Everything else was current or not even needed anymore.


----------



## dafour

I'm having trouble with the Asmedia USB3 controller,
everytime i transfer big files (50gb+) the controller just stops working and i have to disable/enable the controller again,latest drivers installed.
Anyone who has this problem too and found a solution?


----------



## Mercyflush64

Are you running windows 8 because I had a similar problem when moving a large chunk of files to my USB storage. It stalled and I had to reboot and start again. Before the reboot it showed that no files were moved and after the reboot almost all of them were. Win8 still has a lot of bugs for what I use it for and wish that I would have just stuck with my stable 7.


----------



## dafour

I'm running Win8 atm but the problem is also on Windows 7.

Just did a test again with 40gb,suddenly it says it can't find the source file,Just loses connection.

Can someone try to duplicate this?


----------



## Ellis

Love this board so far. On my Gigabyte, I spent ages tweaking my overclock to get 4.5 GHz stable at 1.30 V, which then became unstable some months later. It had a dodgy BIOS, an even worse UEFI, and offset voltage was poor.

Now, after barely any tweaking at all I have 4.5 GHz stable with only ~1.265 V - offset works perfectly and so does everything else









It was really a great advert for how easy Sandy Bridge overclocking can be - I only had one crash in total and in terms of actual tweaking, I've barely done anything, it's just been time consuming because of the stress testing.


----------



## malmental

nice voltage if your running 4.5GHz @ 1.265v, very impressive.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> nice voltage if your running 4.5GHz @ 1.265v, very impressive.


Yeah I am, thanks


----------



## thinkingbeyondthesquare

Hi Team

New V3603 BIOS releases:

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8Z68-V%20PRO&p=1&s=39&os=8&hashedid=JjlGHLJGJPFfGCFA

Install went well for me









Cheers


----------



## brfield

Got my RMA back from Intel tonight!
Glad to say, put it in, booted up and I currently have stable clock of 4.5 GHz at 1.34V and I will work on getting the voltage down later. Then Go higher. I had a super hungry chip! Will have to look into downgrading BIOS, if it can help.

I realize I'm not doing long enough stability tests at this point, but just doing quick ones to test for immediate BSODs, I changed Offest Mode to -20 instead of +20 and my voltage is at 1.31V with a VID of 1.39 at 4.5GHz.


----------



## brfield

Is there a recommended BIOS? I'm on 3304


----------



## malmental

the latest BIOS..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> the latest BIOS..


What made you say that?

What are the changelogs for the latest BIOS?


----------



## TwoCables

I'm wondering the same thing because some P8P67/P8Z68 owners who update to the latest BIOS end up with problems of one kind or another.

So, I say that the recommended BIOS is the one that doesn't give you problems. I'm still using version 1850, and it's just about a full year and a half old. I don't care because everything is 100% problem free. I wouldn't update even if every last member on OCN told me to. I have no interest in disturbing it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm wondering the same thing because some P8P67/P8Z68 owners who update to the latest BIOS end up with problems of one kind or another.
> 
> So, I say that the recommended BIOS is the one that doesn't give you problems. I'm still using version 1850, and it's just about a full year and a half old. I don't care because everything is 100% problem free. I wouldn't update even if every last member on OCN told me to. I have no interest in disturbing it.


I think the problems you are referring to are for the BIOS versions that were released a few months back, right? The latest BIOS versions I'm referring to are the ones released just last week, I think?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I think the problems you are referring to are for the BIOS versions that were released a few months back, right? The latest BIOS versions I'm referring to are the ones released just last week, I think?


I probably am; I'm not paying attention to BIOS releases.


----------



## malmental

I am speaking of the latest BIOS...
I have the latest BIOS in my P8P67 WS Rev B3 and the second to last BIOS on my P8Z68-M Pro.
knock on wood but I have not had any issues and the IB recognition on the Z68 was flawless..


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm wondering the same thing because some P8P67/P8Z68 owners who update to the latest BIOS end up with problems of one kind or another.
> 
> So, I say that the recommended BIOS is the one that doesn't give you problems. I'm still using version 1850, and it's just about a full year and a half old. I don't care because everything is 100% problem free. I wouldn't update even if every last member on OCN told me to. I have no interest in disturbing it.


look at the change-logs, you might have some benefit from them...


----------



## Ellis

Well, my motherboard was running the original UEFI when I got it, so I thought I might as well update as it had been over a year since its release I believe. But there's now a new one out, and I'm not sure I want to update as everything works great as it is. It seems like that one is to enable Intel RST in Windows 8, but I've no interest in using that.


----------



## TwoCables

Intel Rapid Storage Technology can provide superior performance over the generic Microsoft driver.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Anyone see any reason to update to the recent 3603 BIOS on the P8Z68-V Gen3 board? I plan on dropping in a 3770K to replace my 2500K soon but I'm already on 3402 which supposedly supports Ivy already.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> Well, my motherboard was running the original UEFI when I got it, so I thought I might as well update as it had been over a year since its release I believe. But there's now a new one out, and I'm not sure I want to update as everything works great as it is. It seems like that one is to enable Intel RST in Windows 8, but I've no interest in using that.


I'm with you. Everything is working great with my P8Z68-V PRO GEN3 and I5-2500K combo, so I don't plan on upgrading the BIOS unless something changes that situation.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Intel Rapid Storage Technology can provide superior performance over the generic Microsoft driver.


Whoops, I was getting Rapid Storage Technology muddled up with Smart Response Technology, all these modern technologies!









I currently have RST installed and seemingly running fine, and looking again at the ASUS page it doesn't actually have a changelog - it just recommends you to update RST before installing that UEFI update.

That does happen to be the largest UEFI update for my board, though I've no idea if that's any indication of how much is added/changed - could just be inferior compression as I seem to remember them being supplied in some sort of archive file.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I'm with you. Everything is working great with my P8Z68-V PRO GEN3 and I5-2500K combo, so I don't plan on upgrading the BIOS unless something changes that situation.


We have a kind-of similar system


----------



## brfield

Well, I took the plunge and updated to the latest BIOS for the Deluxe/GEN3. It's fine for me.
Current OC:


BIOS is an offset of -0.020V and the CPU PLL Voltage is set to 1.7V. All C States are enabled currently, will see if it causes any problems.

----

Darn it, I think I messed up a setting somewhere, it won't idle back down to 1.6Ghz at idle.
Nevermind, there it goes.


----------



## Mercyflush64

I seriously have given up on my board and the Asus company. I installed a new 650ti card and booted into windows once. After the reboot I got a memory error and made it into the bios after a cmos reset. After that I never got it to post again with the horrid red light coming on by the memory almost instantly. Tried single sticks in all slots and nothing so I sent my memory out to RMA figuring this was the issue. Got new memory last night and same issue so that can't be the problem and going cray hoping it is not a CPU issue,

I have seen a lot of reviews lately about these boards failing with similar issue after a year )you always see bad reviews like this and rarely happy people). The bad thing is all of the customers that have had poor experiences dealing with the Aus RMA process and them wanting to charge for "broken" parts they seem to find even under warranty. I do believe I would rather put the money and time wasted into using this board as a frisbee and going rogue for a different company from now on after the steady decline in customer care over they past couple of years.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> I seriously have given up on my board and the Asus company. I installed a new 650ti card and booted into windows once. After the reboot I got a memory error and made it into the bios after a cmos reset. After that I never got it to post again with the horrid red light coming on by the memory almost instantly. Tried single sticks in all slots and nothing so I sent my memory out to RMA figuring this was the issue. Got new memory last night and same issue so that can't be the problem and going cray hoping it is not a CPU issue,
> 
> I have seen a lot of reviews lately about these boards failing with similar issue after a year )you always see bad reviews like this and rarely happy people). The bad thing is all of the customers that have had poor experiences dealing with the Aus RMA process and them wanting to charge for "broken" parts they seem to find even under warranty. I do believe I would rather put the money and time wasted into using this board as a frisbee and going rogue for a different company from now on after the steady decline in customer care over they past couple of years.


it could be punishment for buying a GTX 650 Ti instead of something better for it...









seriously though I hope you get it sorted.
can you link this issue that many speak of.?
thanks.


----------



## General121

Have you tried seating the gpu in another slot or without it even in the PC?


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> I seriously have given up on my board and the Asus company. I installed a new 650ti card and booted into windows once. After the reboot I got a memory error and made it into the bios after a cmos reset. After that I never got it to post again with the horrid red light coming on by the memory almost instantly. Tried single sticks in all slots and nothing so I sent my memory out to RMA figuring this was the issue. Got new memory last night and same issue so that can't be the problem and going cray hoping it is not a CPU issue,
> I have seen a lot of reviews lately about these boards failing with similar issue after a year )you always see bad reviews like this and rarely happy people). The bad thing is all of the customers that have had poor experiences dealing with the Aus RMA process and them wanting to charge for "broken" parts they seem to find even under warranty. I do believe I would rather put the money and time wasted into using this board as a frisbee and going rogue for a different company from now on after the steady decline in customer care over they past couple of years.


Just in the final stages of a similar situation.

I've got a P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 that's pretty much dead. It started with the loss of my top PCIe x16 slot. Contacted ASUS Support via the telephone and got an Advanced RMA right away. Fortunately I was still able to use my computer. Just had to move the GPU to the second PCIe slot. It took about 2 weeks for ASUS to locate another motherboard and then another week to arrive (due to the Thanksgiving holiday.)

I inspected the board and it looked like crap. The back of the motherboard was smudged and looked like something had been cleaned off of it plus there were fingerprints all over the back of it. The front was mostly clean, but the heatsinks had some unidentifiable gunk on them. It cleaned off easily enough, but still. And lastly the board was warped, bowing in a the back right near the center of the I/O bracket. But my thinking was that I didn't care what it looked like, as long as it worked. My thinking was optomistic. Couldn't get either of the top two PCIe x16 slots to recognize a graphics card. The only PCIe slot that would work was the bottom one.

So, tear everything down again and reinstall the original broken board. Go to fire it back up, won't post, Get a 55 error code. Eventually discovered that the A1 DIMM slot is now dead as well. But the system will boot and run with two sticks of RAM. Call up ASUS support again and inform them that their replacement board needs a replacement board.

I haven't written ASUS off completely, but this hasn't helped my confidence much. I don't have an issue with their customer support. I was always able to get in touch with them and the RMA handled quickly and without any hassle. But I'm not impressed with this board.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I'm with you. Everything is working great with my P8Z68-V PRO GEN3 and I5-2500K combo, so I don't plan on upgrading the BIOS unless something changes that situation.


Which BIOS version are you at?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Well, I took the plunge and updated to the latest BIOS for the Deluxe/GEN3. It's fine for me.
> Current OC:
> 
> BIOS is an offset of -0.020V and the CPU PLL Voltage is set to 1.7V. All C States are enabled currently, will see if it causes any problems.
> ----
> Darn it, I think I messed up a setting somewhere, it won't idle back down to 1.6Ghz at idle.
> Nevermind, there it goes.


Did upgarding to 3604 improve your core voltage overclocking?


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Did upgarding to 3604 improve your core voltage overclocking?


It seems to have, I did get better stability with a higher negative offset, (now at -0.030V iirc).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> It seems to have, I did get better stability with a higher negative offset, (now at -0.030V iirc).


Nice to hear that! I meant 3603, btw.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm wondering the same thing because some P8P67/P8Z68 owners who update to the latest BIOS end up with problems of one kind or another.
> 
> So, I say that the recommended BIOS is the one that doesn't give you problems. I'm still using version 1850, and it's just about a full year and a half old. I don't care because everything is 100% problem free. I wouldn't update even if every last member on OCN told me to. I have no interest in disturbing it.


+1


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Which BIOS version are you at?


0301


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> you always see bad reviews like this and rarely happy people).


That's human nature.


----------



## dominatorx

Has anyone tried virtu mvp on the z68 boards...


----------



## GeneO

Virtu MVP is not supported on the Z68 boards.


----------



## malmental

no but Lucid Virtu is, just not MVP..


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wuest3nFuchs*
> 
> Originally Posted by munaim1;13469291
> I think you should add this to the op. Handy peiece of info from my thread biggrin.gif
> IMPORTANT INFO FOR ASUS P67 MOBO USERS
> The member quoted below killed his sb chip through a bug in Asus's bios. It is apparent that switching between profiles mainly offset and manual) the voltage does somewhat get altered. As pointed out, this bug is very dangerous and I do always recommend checking settings before applying but nevertheless this bug should be a top priority for asus.
> Here is the link to the actual thread. LINK


very good to know !

THANKS !


----------



## dominatorx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> no but Lucid Virtu is, just not MVP..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Virtu MVP is not supported on the Z68 boards.


Actually I tried lucid mvp on my P8Z68-V PRO and it works flawlessly, but it is in an evaluation period of 30 days
Would the latest 3603 bios fix this issue or is mvp only licensed for the Z77
Note: I currently have the 3402 bios


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> no but Lucid Virtu is, just not MVP..


Virtu MVP is actually supported on Z68 boards but your limited to 30 days trial of the license. You can uninstall and reinstall every 30 days if you want. I even noticed that on my Asus Z68 Deluxe the new Bios v3603 refers to Virtu MVP features right on the iGpu setting page! Just no license in the dsdt tables to support it though so its a cruel joke!

Thanks Asus! So so funny!


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> no but Lucid Virtu is, just not MVP..
> 
> 
> 
> Virtu MVP is actually supported on Z68 boards but your limited to 30 days trial of the license. You can uninstall and reinstall every 30 days if you want. I even noticed that on my Asus Z68 Deluxe the new Bios v3603 refers to Virtu MVP features right on the iGpu setting page! Just no license in the dsdt tables to support it though so its a cruel joke!
> 
> Thanks Asus! So so funny!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dominatorx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> no but Lucid Virtu is, just not MVP..
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Virtu MVP is not supported on the Z68 boards.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Actually I tried lucid mvp on my P8Z68-V PRO and it works flawlessly, but it is in an evaluation period of 30 days
> Would the latest 3603 bios fix this issue or is mvp only licensed for the Z77
> Note: I currently have the 3402 bios
Click to expand...

thanks guys for the update...


----------



## alancsalt

Not just Asus. I don't think any Z68 boards are licensed.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Not just Asus. I don't think any Z68 boards are licensed.


That may be so but I read that Lucid is coming out with something called Virtu MVP Universal which will support all of the above.
I also read of a few people that tried to mod their bios dsdt tables with the license key with out any success to support MVP on Z68.

Right now I'm playing around with MVP though will have to uninstall and reinstall in 30 days. Bummer.


----------



## Stalwart

You guys are awesome. Thanks for having so much detailed info on this motherboard. I've used it to overclock my CPU nicely.

I have a dated P8P67 (E5940). I cannot find any info on it and I have a feeling it was the first edition of the motherboard. I remember when I bought it, there was news about faulty 6GB SATA ports. So far I've only been able to update my BIOS to version 2303 (release date 02/17/2012). Any attempt to update to a newer BIOS failed.

Code:



Code:


Motherboard Manufacturer: ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC.
Motherboard Model: P8P67
Motherboard Version: Rev 1.xx
BIOS Manufacturer: American Megatrends Inc.
BIOS Version: ACRSYS - 1072009
BIOS Release Date: 2012/02/17

On the bright side, I've been able to overclock my i5 2500K to 4.5Ghz.

Here's a screenshot of the temps via HW:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Yodums

Does anybody have a guess as to why my eVGA GTX680 isn't running at 16x in the first PCIE slot? I know the differences between 8x and 16x are negligible, but it's more about why my motherboard is acting wonky? Also, when the video card is in the first slot, it triggers the onboard Intel graphics to be detected by the OS, whereas in the second PCIE slot, it doesn't. Strange behaviour.

I've had it set in the BIOS to be the default, but I've also set it so I specified that the primary graphics controller is PCIE.

BIOS is 3603. This happened on 340x as well too.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yodums*
> 
> Does anybody have a guess as to why my eVGA GTX680 isn't running at 16x in the first PCIE slot? I know the differences between 8x and 16x are negligible, but it's more about why my motherboard is acting wonky? Also, when the video card is in the first slot, it triggers the onboard Intel graphics to be detected by the OS, whereas in the second PCIE slot, it doesn't. Strange behaviour.
> I've had it set in the BIOS to be the default, but I've also set it so I specified that the primary graphics controller is PCIE.
> BIOS is 3603. This happened on 340x as well too.


If you are just viewing it idle in GPU-Z then it will normally show the PCIe bus clocked to to an idle 8x or 1x sometimes. Most likely you are running full 16x while gaming. The on board intel graphics can be disabled in the BIOS to avoid the mixup unless you are using Lucid.


----------



## arfaad

My board randomly resets. Troubleshooted for days. 1 stick of bad RAM removed. Still reset. Updated BIOS - still reset. Board doesn't POST without a graphics card installed anymore - that one is new and surprising. When you do boot with the graphics card, there are no iGPU related settings. No options to change primary graphics adapter. It's pretty sucky.


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arfaad*
> 
> My board randomly resets. Troubleshooted for days. 1 stick of bad RAM removed. Still reset. Updated BIOS - still reset. Board doesn't POST without a graphics card installed anymore - that one is new and surprising. When you do boot with the graphics card, there are no iGPU related settings. No options to change primary graphics adapter. It's pretty sucky.


I would say go for the rma. That is a lot of strange behavior, and definitely not what you paid for.


----------



## arfaad

RMA will be as costly as buying a new board. (I'm not in the US)

Yea, this sucks


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arfaad*
> 
> RMA will be as costly as buying a new board. (I'm not in the US)
> Yea, this sucks


Asus doesn't have a regional support for your area? Ask them about a cross ship out advanced rma. You could pressure them to pay shipping charges if they don't want to, but I wouldn't count on it working.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yodums*
> 
> Does anybody have a guess as to why my eVGA GTX680 isn't running at 16x in the first PCIE slot? I know the differences between 8x and 16x are negligible, but it's more about why my motherboard is acting wonky? Also, when the video card is in the first slot, it triggers the onboard Intel graphics to be detected by the OS, whereas in the second PCIE slot, it doesn't. Strange behaviour.
> I've had it set in the BIOS to be the default, but I've also set it so I specified that the primary graphics controller is PCIE.
> BIOS is 3603. This happened on 340x as well too.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are just viewing it idle in GPU-Z then it will normally show the PCIe bus clocked to to an idle 8x or 1x sometimes. Most likely you are running full 16x while gaming. The on board intel graphics can be disabled in the BIOS to avoid the mixup unless you are using Lucid.
Click to expand...

It would be helpful to know your complete build mobo, gpu, USB 3.0 devices, drivers, OS, monitoring software etc. However I've never seen an idle state effect the PCIe bus but I suppose it's possible. I've checked on both builds in my sig below and they both have single GPUs that run at x16 even at idle although clock speeds & voltages do down clock at idle. I have no USB 3.0 devices attached or Virtu Installed and check this using GPUz. It's more likely you have another PCIe card installed in one of the other x16 slots or Virtu is installed or possible a USB3.0 device which is forcing the 8x operation. Even though 16x slots are backward compatible w/4x cards it would be best to install them in one of the 4x slots vs the 16x_2 PCIe or you will see the lanes limited like you have described. If you have no other card installed it may be mobo gpu or an errant bios setting. I will say this I have on board graphics enabled on both builds and a sound card on my V-Pro but it's installed in the 4x PCIe vs a 16x slot and still it doesn't exhibit the behavior you have encountered. In any case a bit more info would be helpful

For single card config x16 operation install in the 16x_1 slot and make sure nothing is in 16x_2 slot which shares the same IRQ. The USB 3.0_0 port & IGD also shares the same IRQ as 16x_1 & 16x_2 which if either are in use/enabled may cause the x8.

Bios opt you can try: (I use)

UEFI>Advanced>On board device Confg> PCIe x16_3 is set to [auto] (default)

UEFI>Advanced>APM>Power on by PCIe>[enabled] (manual set)

UEFI>Advanced>System Agent>Initiate Graphics Adapter>[PCIe/PCI] (manual set)

I should also note I do not have the Virtu software installed or running in the system. If you have Virtu installed and multi monitor support is enabled then make sure you are in D-Mode but this may be the reason for x8 since they share the same IRQ but I'm not sure.

GL I hope this helps


----------



## davidm71

Guys,

I was looking for info on how to update my usb3 firmware and I found this blog.http://pete.akeo.ie/2011/10/flashing-necrenesas-usb-30.html

Worth checking out!


----------



## Faithh

Anyone else encountering 0x124 bsod with the new bios 3603 on an asus p8z68-v pro gen3? It's only happening on idle.. I haven't had this issue with 3402


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Anyone else encountering 0x124 bsod with the new bios 3603 on an asus p8z68-v pro gen3? It's only happening on idle.. I haven't had this issue with 3402


It sounds to me like the idle voltage is going way too low. Do you have an Offset voltage set, or Manual?


----------



## Deo Domuique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Guys,
> I was looking for info on how to update my usb3 firmware and I found this blog.http://pete.akeo.ie/2011/10/flashing-necrenesas-usb-30.html
> Worth checking out!


From there I found the commands to flash it. It's a bit trickier with the latest firmwares, because it has 2 controllers that need to be flashed; while the previous firmwares did the job automatically...

I really thing BIOS flashing should be taking care of all the controllers on a M/B. Find and update yourself this, find and update yourself that... It's not even easy to find the firmwares in the first place. ASUS doesn't do the best job. P67 series is like it doesn't exist already for them.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Anyone else encountering 0x124 bsod with the new bios 3603 on an asus p8z68-v pro gen3? It's only happening on idle.. I haven't had this issue with 3402


No problems here. I have all C-states disabled but EIST enabled and I am using offset mode and have LLC disabled . 4..5 GHz @ 1.264V.

BTW, it seems odd to me but I have never, ever had a BSOD on this board in my many pushes to raise the frequency - I only get failures fft round-off or app stops responding. What has stopped me from going much higher is the limits of my cooler.


----------



## TwoCables

It's safe to enable C1E.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's safe to enable C1E.


Sure its safe and probably doesn't affect OC on a Sandybridge but there is more to it than that. It adversely affects my SSD performance. EIST alone works well. This is off the topic anyway - I was simply stating my settings that have given me no issues with any of the BIOS, including the latest.


----------



## TwoCables

Oh. I didn't know that C1E could be a problem for SSD performance.


----------



## malmental

my C1E is on auto...


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Anyone else encountering 0x124 bsod with the new bios 3603 on an asus p8z68-v pro gen3? It's only happening on idle.. I haven't had this issue with 3402


Do you have C3 and C6 disabled? When I had the 2500K I had to disable these two to prevent idle BSOD's.


----------



## brfield

IIRC, all of mine on are on auto. Using negative offset of 0.030 volts and got no random BSODs whether idle or load or when switching. 2500k @ 4.5GHz


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> No problems here. I have all C-states disabled but EIST enabled and I am using offset mode and have LLC disabled . 4..5 GHz @ 1.264V.


If you don't mind me asking, what do you have your offset voltage set to? I like that voltage at 4.5.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> If you don't mind me asking, what do you have your offset voltage set to? I like that voltage at 4.5.


I have the same voltage at 4.5GHz and my offset is set to -0.130V with ultra high LLC. I have very low idle voltages most of the time but I've never encountered any instabilities at idle that might point towards that.

I wouldn't just whack someone else's offset in, though - it will vary depending on the chip in question. Not saying you were planning on doing that, but just in case.


----------



## Catscratch

Hmm, i'm not sure about C3 but as long as you don't use SLEEP at all, you can disable C6 reporting. I have enabled HPET on windows 7 and disabled c6 reporting in bios, the OS response a bit better this way.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> I have the same voltage at 4.5GHz and my offset is set to -0.130V with ultra high LLC. I have very low idle voltages most of the time but I've never encountered any instabilities at idle that might point towards that.
> I wouldn't just whack someone else's offset in, though - it will vary depending on the chip in question. Not saying you were planning on doing that, but just in case.


Thanks -- this gives me a good idea. Currently, my offset voltage is -0.035 and I am at 1.336v so I will increment my offset voltage more towards your number and see how it goes.


----------



## rdpsfinest

Anyone having issues with Asus USB 3.0 Boost on Windows 8 ?

everytime I turn on turbo mode, AI Suite crashes.

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: APPCRASH
Application Name: AI Suite II.exe
Application Version: 2.0.0.0
Application Timestamp: 00000000
Fault Module Name: ntdll.dll
Fault Module Version: 6.2.9200.16420
Fault Module Timestamp: 505aaa82
Exception Code: c0000005
Exception Offset: 00061252
OS Version: 6.2.9200.2.0.0.256.103
Locale ID: 1033
Additional Information 1: 5861
Additional Information 2: 5861822e1919d7c014bbb064c64908b2
Additional Information 3: f3d5
Additional Information 4: f3d5be0cad2787556264647dc02181c3


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> If you don't mind me asking, what do you have your offset voltage set to? I like that voltage at 4.5.


-.035

And that core voltage is measured in CPU-Z under load (since I have LLC disabled, I get Vdroop on load).


----------



## SvnStrSlm

Hey guys. In case any one else was like me and too lazy to RMA their board back when the initial recall was made for the SATA 3.0 ports I would like to say that after just under two years the 3.0 ports have begun to fail. I received mine back in the begining of Feb 2011 and over the last month or so I was having issues with not being able to recover from sleep states and drives dissapearing from the OS and BIOS. If you still have one of these I was told my warranty is good until July 2014. I cant remember if that is when i registered it if at all. I mostly play MMORPGs and Stream movies to my PS3. I just hope I dont get shafted with some jenky replacement chip and they give me a new rev3 board.


----------



## NotAnotherHong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SvnStrSlm*
> 
> Hey guys. In case any one else was like me and too lazy to RMA their board back when the initial recall was made for the SATA 3.0 ports I would like to say that after just under two years the 3.0 ports have begun to fail. I received mine back in the begining of Feb 2011 and over the last month or so I was having issues with not being able to recover from sleep states and drives dissapearing from the OS and BIOS. If you still have one of these I was told my warranty is good until July 2014. I cant remember if that is when i registered it if at all. I mostly play MMORPGs and Stream movies to my PS3. I just hope I dont get shafted with some jenky replacement chip and they give me a new rev3 board.


 I have the P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3, and have been having troubles lately recovering from sleep state! I was unaware of any recalls...
I guess I better call ASUS....


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotAnotherHong*
> 
> I have the P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3, and have been having troubles lately recovering from sleep state! I was unaware of any recalls...
> I guess I better call ASUS....


The recalls were only for P67 and H67 chipset boards purchased shortly after the launch of Sandy Bridge as a platform. These were the B2 revision chipsets, which were quickly recalled and replaced with B3 versions. Your Z68 'board is totally unaffected.


----------



## TwoCables

First, B3 came along to fix the problems we had with B2. Gen 3 is after B3, so you're fine.

I think that if you're having issues, then this could be a sign of an unstable system.


----------



## Butternut101

how do i join this club?


----------



## Deo Domuique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Butternut101*
> 
> how do i join this club?


Pay 10€ at the entrance for start and then, you need a monthly subscription.


----------



## TwoCables

After that, you have to undergo the initiation.


----------



## owcraftsman

Lol you guys are bad initiation is to read every page of this thread you will be quized so bone up lol hint there are clues to join in the OP


----------



## TwoCables

After that, you'll have to undergo the spanking machine. Then following that, oh wait, I forgot. That's top secret. You're supposed to find out during the initiation.


----------



## malmental

video on youtube and news @ 11..


----------



## TwoCables

That reminds me: there's one particular part of the initiation that is illegal in 5 states here in the US. So, the media won't be allowed to show that part.


----------



## PCWargamer

but in the end it is all worth it because you will belong......


----------



## ViTosS

Can I update my current BIOS (2303) to the new one (3602) without problems? I have a P8P67 Pro and the latest BIOS (3207) brought a lot of problems to people, anyone using 3602 can confirm that it is stable and running good?

Thanks


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViTosS*
> 
> Can I update my current BIOS (2303) to the new one (3602) without problems? I have a P8P67 Pro and the latest BIOS (3207) brought a lot of problems to people, anyone using 3602 can confirm that it is stable and running good?
> Thanks


What's wrong with the one you're on?


----------



## TwoCables

I hope the answer is not "it's outdated". I'm still using a version that's over a year and a half old now. Come late spring, it'll be 2 years old! There's no way I'm giving this one up because everything is working perfectly for me.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I hope the answer is not "it's outdated". I'm still using a version that's over a year and a half old now. Come late spring, it'll be 2 years old! There's no way I'm giving this one up because everything is working perfectly for me.


To be fair, that's how I was until quite recently. I wouldn't actually go and check for BIOS updates and the like, but if I saw there was a new one then I would flash it. Then I had big motherboard issues (Gigabyte Z68







), bought a new one, had SSD issues from updating the firmware, and vowed not to update my stuff just because my version isn't the newest one. My SSD's always been fine on this firmware and I've had no issues with my motherboard since getting it (I did update it from the release BIOS though).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> To be fair, that's how I was until quite recently. I wouldn't actually go and check for BIOS updates and the like, but if I saw there was a new one then I would flash it. Then I had big motherboard issues (Gigabyte Z68
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), bought a new one, had SSD issues from updating the firmware, and vowed not to update my stuff just because my version isn't the newest one. My SSD's always been fine on this firmware and I've had no issues with my motherboard since getting it (I did update it from the release BIOS though).


Yeah, I've learned from my own experience lately that having the latest firmware, BIOS, driver, or software is not always absolutely necessary.


----------



## ViTosS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> What's wrong with the one you're on?


Nothing wrong







I was just looking for less vcore use in my OC maybe, and what is that ''gtx 680 hanging fixed''?


----------



## crazydj

Hey guys!

I finally made the effort to switch my stock cooler to my Hyper 212+ lying around. With its single fan configuration, i am getting 55 degrees on idle and 70 degrees on load while playing PlanetSide 2. My 2500k is overclocked to 3.6Ghz. Does this temperature seem normal or is there something wrong here?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I finally made the effort to switch my stock cooler to my Hyper 212+ lying around. With its single fan configuration, i am getting 55 degrees on idle and 70 degrees on load while playing PlanetSide 2. My 2500k is overclocked to 3.6Ghz. Does this temperature seem normal or is there something wrong here?


In my second rig I'm running a i7 2600k at 4.6GHz on the same cooler, it idles at 28-30c, and only hits 72c in prime95.

Sounds like you need to try a remount.


----------



## crazydj

I use cheap CoolerMaster IC Value V1 and i live in the tropics. Its endless summer here. Could this be the cause or i still need to do a remount or i need to do both a remount and new thermal paste?


----------



## kizwan

55C is way too high when idle. You should see at least between high 30s degrees to low 40s degrees in 31C to 35C ambient. I don't know whether CoolerMaster IC is good or not but can you get different TIM? Shin-Etsu maybe? Or maybe IC Diamond? Definitely you need to remount the cooler & make sure TIM is spread evenly.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I finally made the effort to switch my stock cooler to my Hyper 212+ lying around. With its single fan configuration, i am getting 55 degrees on idle and 70 degrees on load while playing PlanetSide 2. My 2500k is overclocked to 3.6Ghz. Does this temperature seem normal or is there something wrong here?
> 
> 
> 
> In my second rig I'm running a i7 2600k at 4.6GHz on the same cooler, it idles at 28-30c, and only hits 72c in prime95.
> 
> Sounds like you need to try a remount.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> I use cheap CoolerMaster IC Value V1 and i live in the tropics. Its endless summer here. Could this be the cause or i still need to do a remount or i need to do both a remount and new thermal paste?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 55C is way too high when idle. You should see at least between high 30s degrees to low 40s degrees in 31C to 35C ambient. I don't know whether CoolerMaster IC is good or not but can you get different TIM? Shin-Etsu maybe? Or maybe IC Diamond? Definitely you need to remount the cooler & make sure TIM is spread evenly.


*crazydj*, the 212 is a decent cooler. Ambient temps do matter if they are high were you live. Yet *HiLuckyB* and *kizwan* are correct that your idle temps are still too high and a remount is something you should try. I would also consider a better TIM and verify your application of it. Hope it works out.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> *crazydj*, the 212 is a decent cooler. Ambient temps do matter if they are high were you live. Yet *HiLuckyB* and *kizwan* are correct that your idle temps are still too high and a remount is something you should try. I would also consider a better TIM and verify your application of it. Hope it works out.


Yeah, i thought so too... The thermal conductivity of my CoolerMaster IC Value V1 is only >1.85 W/m-K as compared to 8.5 W/m-K for an Artic MX-4. Such a high difference. Used the pea method. So what's the best thermal paste in the market right now?


----------



## TwoCables

With the Hyper 212+, the exposed gaps in between the heatpipes must be filled with thermal paste like this:










After that, apply paste to the heatsink 'bars' that are located in between the pipes like you see here:










Source: http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5

If you don't do it this way, then your temps will always be very high.


----------



## owcraftsman

@ crazydj Indigo Extreme is the best but costly if you change mounts often. Best bang for the buck Phobya HEGrease IMHO

http://skinneelabs.com/2011-tim-results/


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Yeah, i thought so too... The thermal conductivity of my CoolerMaster IC Value V1 is only >1.85 W/m-K as compared to 8.5 W/m-K for an Artic MX-4. Such a high difference. Used the pea method. So what's the best thermal paste in the market right now?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1273567/best-thermal-paste-2012/60#post_18027163

Bit of debate there. Tried to get a Skinneelabs link, but the labs wouldn't load for me...so can't verify...
http://skinneelabs.com/2011-thermal-paste-review-comparison/


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I finally made the effort to switch my stock cooler to my Hyper 212+ lying around. With its single fan configuration, i am getting 55 degrees on idle and 70 degrees on load while playing PlanetSide 2. My 2500k is overclocked to 3.6Ghz. Does this temperature seem normal or is there something wrong here?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> @ crazydj Indigo Extreme is the best but costly if you change mounts often. Best bang for the buck Phobya HEGrease IMHO
> 
> http://skinneelabs.com/2011-tim-results/


The skineelabs links are dead for quite some time now, don't know why.

Regarding the best tim, two of the top contenders are PK-1 and MX-4.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I finally made the effort to switch my stock cooler to my Hyper 212+ lying around. With its single fan configuration, i am getting 55 degrees on idle and 70 degrees on load while playing PlanetSide 2. My 2500k is overclocked to 3.6Ghz. Does this temperature seem normal or is there something wrong here?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> @ crazydj Indigo Extreme is the best but costly if you change mounts often. Best bang for the buck Phobya HEGrease IMHO
> 
> http://skinneelabs.com/2011-tim-results/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The skineelabs links are dead for quite some time now, don't know why.
> 
> Regarding the best tim, two of the top contenders are PK-1 and MX-4.
Click to expand...

Those two are good. On the delidding thread we have been having very good results with Coollabotory Pro and Ultra, but they are best when on an IB and used between the die and IHS after delidding. Between the IHS and the HFS there are several good choices like those two above, and others. Just get something better than what you are using and remount. You should have better idle temps after that.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Those two are good. On the delidding thread we have been having very good results with Coollabotory Pro and Ultra, but they are best when on an IB and used between the die and IHS after delidding. Between the IHS and the HFS there are several good choices like those two above, and others. Just get something better than what you are using and remount. You should have better idle temps after that.


What is delidding?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Those two are good. On the delidding thread we have been having very good results with Coollabotory Pro and Ultra, but they are best when on an IB and used between the die and IHS after delidding. Between the IHS and the HFS there are several good choices like those two above, and others. Just get something better than what you are using and remount. You should have better idle temps after that.
> 
> 
> 
> What is delidding?
Click to expand...

On Ivy Bridge the IHS was not soldered on as with Sandy Bridge. This meant Intel used TIM inside between the die and the IHS. The glue holding the IHS on also created a gap between the die/TIM/IHS. The effect was very high temps when OCing IB's past 4.5GHz as vcore was increased. This made it tough to run an IB much beyond 4.7-4.8GHz before hitting TJMax temps.

But if you delid the IB by removing the IHS the Intel TIM and the glue, then the die is in direct contact with the IHS and you can add a better TIM between the die and IHS. If CL PRO or CL Ultra is used the avg. resulting temp dorp is around 20-30C. This allows the IB to run at and beyond 5GHz - like it always should have been able to do. Temp issues are gone, only vcore issues to worry about as you will hit very high voltage at higher OC before temps become an issue again.

We have lots of instructions and such on the thread for those interested in it. And lots of support. We also tried many different TIMs and ended up finding that the best for between the die and IHS was the CL PRO and CL Ultra. Many other good TIMs can be used between the IHS and HSF though besides them, although they are good there too.

Note - delidding only applies to IB and not SB chips. Also, you can check out some of my pics if interested.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> On Ivy Bridge the IHS was not soldered on as with Sandy Bridge. This meant Intel used TIM inside between the die and the IHS. The glue holding the IHS on also created a gap between the die/TIM/IHS. The effect was very high temps when OCing IB's past 4.5GHz as vcore was increased. This made it tough to run an IB much beyond 4.7-4.8GHz before hitting TJMax temps.
> But if you delid the IB by removing the IHS the Intel TIM and the glue, then the die is in direct contact with the IHS and you can add a better TIM between the die and IHS. If CL PRO or CL Ultra is used the avg. resulting temp dorp is around 20-30C. This allows the IB to run at and beyond 5GHz - like it always should have been able to do. Temp issues are gone, only vcore issues to worry about as you will hit very high voltage at higher OC before temps become an issue again.
> We have lots of instructions and such on the thread for those interested in it. And lots of support. We also tried many different TIMs and ended up finding that the best for between the die and IHS was the CL PRO and CL Ultra. Many other good TIMs can be used between the IHS and HSF though besides them, although they are good there too.
> Note - delidding only applies to IB and not SB chips. Also, you can check out some of my pics if interested.


Why is Intel so dumb to do that?









Yeah, I sure am interested in your pics. Where do I find them though?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> On Ivy Bridge the IHS was not soldered on as with Sandy Bridge. This meant Intel used TIM inside between the die and the IHS. The glue holding the IHS on also created a gap between the die/TIM/IHS. The effect was very high temps when OCing IB's past 4.5GHz as vcore was increased. This made it tough to run an IB much beyond 4.7-4.8GHz before hitting TJMax temps.
> But if you delid the IB by removing the IHS the Intel TIM and the glue, then the die is in direct contact with the IHS and you can add a better TIM between the die and IHS. If CL PRO or CL Ultra is used the avg. resulting temp dorp is around 20-30C. This allows the IB to run at and beyond 5GHz - like it always should have been able to do. Temp issues are gone, only vcore issues to worry about as you will hit very high voltage at higher OC before temps become an issue again.
> We have lots of instructions and such on the thread for those interested in it. And lots of support. We also tried many different TIMs and ended up finding that the best for between the die and IHS was the CL PRO and CL Ultra. Many other good TIMs can be used between the IHS and HSF though besides them, although they are good there too.
> Note - delidding only applies to IB and not SB chips. Also, you can check out some of my pics if interested.
> 
> 
> 
> Why is Intel so dumb to do that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I sure am interested in your pics. Where do I find them though?
Click to expand...

We think it has to do with going to the smaller size chips. Next gen chips may all be this way from now on as they get even smaller. Some problem with soldering them at some point it seems.

Pics can be accessed by hitting my name or avatar and looking at my profile for the picture section.


----------



## TwoCables

Or http://www.overclock.net/g/u/294209/PCWargamer/photosets/1/


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> We think it has to do with going to the smaller size chips. Next gen chips may all be this way from now on as they get even smaller. Some problem with soldering them at some point it seems.
> Pics can be accessed by hitting my name or avatar and looking at my profile for the picture section.


So they sacrifice temps in that way?

Thanks!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> We think it has to do with going to the smaller size chips. Next gen chips may all be this way from now on as they get even smaller. Some problem with soldering them at some point it seems.
> Pics can be accessed by hitting my name or avatar and looking at my profile for the picture section.
> 
> 
> 
> So they sacrifice temps in that way?
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yes, but the chips work just fine if the user stays within specs. But if you go beyond the specs and OC them, then you run into the temp problems - which are not a problem for the vast majority of the users, and so not a problem for Intel either. Not like there is a bunch of CPU competition these days....


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Or http://www.overclock.net/g/u/294209/PCWargamer/photosets/1/


Yeah. That's a better way to help him see them! Thanks *TwoCables*!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Yes, but the chips work just fine if the user stays within specs. But if you go beyond the specs and OC them, then you run into the temp problems - which are not a problem for the vast majority of the users, and so not a problem for Intel either. Not like there is a bunch of CPU competition these days....


But definitely a problem for OCN members


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I finally made the effort to switch my stock cooler to my Hyper 212+ lying around. With its single fan configuration, i am getting 55 degrees on idle and 70 degrees on load while playing PlanetSide 2. My 2500k is overclocked to 3.6Ghz. Does this temperature seem normal or is there something wrong here?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> @ crazydj Indigo Extreme is the best but costly if you change mounts often. Best bang for the buck Phobya HEGrease IMHO
> 
> http://skinneelabs.com/2011-tim-results/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The skineelabs links are dead for quite some time now, don't know why.
> 
> Regarding the best tim, two of the top contenders are PK-1 and MX-4.
Click to expand...

If true the site is dead it's a very sad day for enthusiast like us it would be a tremendous resource lost. Hopefully it's temporary like Martins went down for a while. It took a lot of prodding and poking to get him back and I'm so glad he did. It should go without saying it takes our support if we want non biased reports that we all benefit from. I was on the site just last week so something happened recently I have a message out to him and we'll see if I can get a response. Of course we are familiar with valuable resources taking a hiatus does TwoCables ring a bell. We are all glad he's back right? Hopefully this is temporary but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to show your support but I digress I was able to do a Google search in the mean time to pull up this following image of course we a lacking the entirety of the review but I can verify the results as I took the advice on the Phoyba HeGrease and have tried many of the top performers on the list over the years personally, it's an excellent TIM you will not be disappointed.



For a little larger image http://www.frozencpu.com/images/awards/Skinneelabs%20TIMOverallTempa.jpg

In any case I hope this helps you

*Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to all my friends here!!*


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If true the site is dead it's a very sad day for enthusiast like us it would be a tremendous resource lost. Hopefully it's temporary like Martins went down for a while. It took a lot of prodding and poking to get him back and I'm so glad he did. It should go without saying it takes our support if we want non biased reports that we all benefit from. I was on the site just last week so something happened recently I have a message out to him and we'll see if I can get a response. Of course we are familiar with valuable resources taking a hiatus does TwoCables ring a bell. We are all glad he's back right? Hopefully this is temporary but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to show your support but I digress I was able to do a Google search in the mean time to pull up this following image of course we a lacking the entirety of the review but I can verify the results as I took the advice on the Phoyba HeGrease and have tried many of the top performers on the list over the years personally, it's an excellent TIM you will not be disappointed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For a little larger image http://www.frozencpu.com/images/awards/Skinneelabs%20TIMOverallTempa.jpg
> 
> In any case I hope this helps you
> 
> *Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to all my friends here!!*


I just don't get it. My C2D E6600 running at 2.4Ghz stock with a ThermalTake Ruby Orb is running at 40 degrees idle with CM IC Value V1 thermal paste. My i5 2500k, which at stock, OCed to 3.6Ghz, 4.0Ghz and 4.4Ghz with a CM Hyper 212+ with the same CM IC Value V1 thermal paste runs at 52 degrees at idle, even though i re-sat the cooler using the pea and spread method and even added a pull fan into the equation. Basically, second fan added and filling in the gaps of the heatpipes yield no significant improvements. Is the Hyper 212+ cooler busted somehow or is something wrong with the chip? The E6600 should be giving higher temps compared to my i5, am i correct? I recall with my stock i5 cooler, it gives me 80 degrees on load while its about 60 degrees on idle.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> I just don't get it. My C2D E6600 running at 2.4Ghz stock with a ThermalTake Ruby Orb is running at 40 degrees idle with CM IC Value V1 thermal paste. My i5 2500k, which at stock, OCed to 3.6Ghz, 4.0Ghz and 4.4Ghz with a CM Hyper 212+ with the same CM IC Value V1 thermal paste runs at 52 degrees at idle, even though i re-sat the cooler using the pea and spread method and even added a pull fan into the equation. Basically, second fan added and filling in the gaps of the heatpipes yield no significant improvements. Is the Hyper 212+ cooler busted somehow or is something wrong with the chip? The E6600 should be giving higher temps compared to my i5, am i correct? I recall with my stock i5 cooler, it gives me 80 degrees on load while its about 60 degrees on idle.


Depends, of course ambient plays a role but so too does your case, vcore, fan and it's rpm and some use the wrong software to monitor their temps. If you are using the Asus supplied software it's known to be buggy. I would try Real Temp or Core Temp or my favorite (paid ver.) Adia 64 which are known to be more reliable. Still this does not explain the difference you are getting from one platform to another of course they are different but not to dissimilar in that you should be seeing comparable idle temps. I'd say it more likely your CPU that may be defective if we have not overlooked something and as you suggest the 212+ is not defective.There is one way you could test this theory. Is it possible for you to try the Orb on your 1155 proc? If not even the stock cooler would out perform the numbers you have reported have you tried it? In any case sorry for your troubles and I hope you find a resolve soon!


----------



## TwoCables

After filling in the gaps, add thermal paste like this:










Then, tighten it down really well.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> After filling in the gaps, add thermal paste like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, tighten it down really well.


Yep, did like that and turned down tight. I suspect the chip itself is faulty. It cannot be that the thermal paste is that bad right? And no, my ruby orb cannot fit a 1155.


----------



## General121

Is there a version of this club for the p8z77 series?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Yep, did like that and turned down tight. I suspect the chip itself is faulty. It cannot be that the thermal paste is that bad right? And no, my ruby orb cannot fit a 1155.


Well, where do you keep your system? I mean, is it in a deskhole, or is it sitting out in the open?


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, where do you keep your system? I mean, is it in a deskhole, or is it sitting out in the open?


Under a well very basic computer table, slightly raised, the top of the case is knee level. I can touch the whole sides and back of the case easily. The thing is that, i've used my 212+ on this exact case before on my C2D E6600 and the temps were much better than this i5 2500k, even at stock. The weird thing is that, my 2500k, at stock at 3.3Ghz or over clocked to 4.4Ghz, at idle and load, there is not much of a difference, only a few degrees. I get ~50+C at idle and ~70C at load.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Under a well very basic computer table, slightly raised, the top of the case is knee level. I can touch the whole sides and back of the case easily. The thing is that, i've used my 212+ on this exact case before on my C2D E6600 and the temps were much better than this i5 2500k, even at stock. The weird thing is that, my 2500k, at stock at 3.3Ghz or over clocked to 4.4Ghz, at idle and load, there is not much of a difference, only a few degrees. I get ~50+C at idle and ~70C at load.


Wow. What's the difference in the full-load core voltage (according to CPU-Z) between stock and 4.4 GHz?


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. What's the difference in the full-load core voltage (according to CPU-Z) between stock and 4.4 GHz?


Voltage at 100% load using prime95 is 1.424V @4.4Ghz.

Just downloaded core temp and real temp. Min temp is 37C. Max temp on load is 88C. Idle temps are around 40C to 45C. It was my monitoring program all along haha. But even if this is the case, isnt 40C at idle and 88C on load still too high for a 212+?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Voltage at 100% load using prime95 is 1.424V @4.4Ghz.
> Just downloaded core temp and real temp. Min temp is 37C. Max temp on load is 88C. Idle temps are around 40C to 45C. It was my monitoring program all along haha. But even if this is the case, isnt 40C at idle and 88C on load still too high for a 212+?


Why are you using 1.424v for 4.4GHz? I would drop it to at least 1.3v, then your temps will drop.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Voltage at 100% load using prime95 is 1.424V @4.4Ghz.
> Just downloaded core temp and real temp. Min temp is 37C. Max temp on load is 88C. Idle temps are around 40C to 45C. It was my monitoring program all along haha. But even if this is the case, isnt 40C at idle and 88C on load still too high for a 212+?


Ha, that's normal for 1.424V. That's a very high core voltage. Is that really what it needs for 4.4 GHz? I am used to seeing 4.4 GHz needing about 1.30 to maybe 1.35V under load.

What is the idle voltage?

(you're right that Core Temp and Real Temp are better)


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. What's the difference in the full-load core voltage (according to CPU-Z) between stock and 4.4 GHz?
> 
> 
> 
> Voltage at 100% load using prime95 is 1.424V @4.4Ghz.
> 
> Just downloaded core temp and real temp. Min temp is 37C. Max temp on load is 88C. Idle temps are around 40C to 45C. It was my monitoring program all along haha. But even if this is the case, isnt 40C at idle and 88C on load still too high for a 212+?
Click to expand...

Yes. I run prime95 on my 2500k OC'ed to 4.5GHz @ 1.36v and my temps are in the 55-65C range with ambient temps of around 25C.

Did your OC come from the auto OC? If so, that ends up with too much vcore every time. Try to lower your vcore to something between 1.3v to 1.38v or so for a 4.4GHz. Depends on your chip, of course, but 4.4GHz @ 1.424v is high and will result in high temps.

Also, what is your ambient temps? If they are high, then everything else will be higher for you in that environment.


----------



## TwoCables

I see another possible reason for 1.424V under load at 4.4 GHz: using an Offset voltage at the *Auto* setting.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Ha, that's normal for 1.424V. That's a _very_ high core voltage. Is that really what it needs for 4.4 GHz? I am used to seeing 4.4 GHz needing about 1.30 to maybe 1.35V under load.
> 
> What is the idle voltage?
> 
> (you're right that Core Temp and Real Temp are better)


No those aren't normal temps. I had an i5 2500k 4.7ghz @ 1.43v an my temps were Max 70c using a hyper 212+ and also had a gtx 670 running full load @ 70c (all of this testing was done by folding )


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I see another possible reason for 1.424V under load at 4.4 GHz: using an Offset voltage at the *Auto* setting.


You are correct.....

And I too am using a 212 for cooling.....


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> No those aren't normal temps. I had an i5 2500k 4.7ghz @ 1.43v an my temps were Max 70c using a hyper 212+ and also had a gtx 670 running full load @ 70c (all of this testing was done by folding )


Well, he lives in Singapore. As he put it, it's an "endless summer" there.


----------



## General121

Quote name="TwoCables" url="/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/7880#post_18894916"]
Well, he lives in Singapore. As he put it, it's an "endless summer" there.
[/quote] yes but I don't think there's going to be an 18c difference. My testing was in the summer which can get in 90s and humid here


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> No those aren't normal temps. I had an i5 2500k 4.7ghz @ 1.43v an my temps were Max 70c using a hyper 212+ and also had a gtx 670 running full load @ 70c (all of this testing was done by folding )
> 
> 
> 
> Well, he lives in Singapore. As he put it, it's an "endless summer" there.
Click to expand...

Was my thoughts too, which is why I would like to know his ambient temp. Yet it still seems he has too high of temps. Maybe the overly high vcore with very high ambients - Yet still, 40C to 45C temps for idle is a bit high even so. Need more info.....


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Is there a version of this club for the p8z77 series?


+1


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, he lives in Singapore. As he put it, it's an "endless summer" there.


Okay, okay... I went to follow TwoCables recommended template on the first page of the thread. (Can't thank you enough bro because of it, my loud buzzing, hanging problem when gaming was totally gone)

The thing is that, how do i reduce my core voltage and what should be my magic number? I followed your template exactly except for the clock speed and memory timings. If i am not wrong, the voltages are AUTO.

Idle voltage is at 1.032V.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Okay, okay... I went to follow TwoCables recommended template on the first page of the thread. (Can't thank you enough bro because of it, my loud buzzing, hanging problem when gaming was totally gone)
> The thing is that, how do i reduce my core voltage and what should be my magic number? I followed your template exactly except for the clock speed and memory timings. If i am not wrong, the voltages are AUTO.
> Idle voltage is at 1.032V.


Use a manually-set Offset. Using Auto is the reason why it's sitting at 1.424V under load at 4.4 GHz.

Try +0.005V first and then we'll go from there.

*Edit:* Alternatively, you can use a Manual voltage instead of Offset for now. That way, you can keep overclocking without continually having to readjust the Offset. I mean, it just becomes too much guesswork trying to babysit the Offset voltage every time you change the multiplier.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Use a manually-set Offset. Using Auto is the reason why it's sitting at 1.424V under load at 4.4 GHz.
> 
> Try +0.005V first and then we'll go from there.
> 
> *Edit:* Alternatively, you can use a Manual voltage instead of Offset for now. That way, you can keep overclocking without continually having to readjust the Offset. I mean, it just becomes too much guesswork trying to babysit the Offset voltage every time you change the multiplier.


Okay, so from your template, the CPU offset voltage from 0.040v i change it to 0.005v? What do i do after this?

And where is this AUTO setting which you talk about? I followed everything identical that you provided in your template.

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled


----------



## TwoCables

Well, you said all of your voltages are set to Auto, so I thought you meant that you had the Offset set to Auto too.

As I said in the post that has become the "template", you have to experiment with the Offset voltage. It is not a "one size fits all" thing. That +0.040V setting was giving me the voltage I needed for 4.8 GHz all of these settings were for 4.8 GHz for me). So, change yours to +0.005V and then we'll see what happens.

Also, the Offset is a calculation based on your VID. I can explain this later. For now, start with +0.005V and then we'll go from there.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, you said all of your voltages are set to Auto, so I thought you meant that you had the Offset set to Auto too.
> 
> As I said in the post that has become the "template", you have to experiment with the Offset voltage. It is not a "one size fits all" thing. That +0.040V setting was giving me the voltage I needed for 4.8 GHz all of these settings were for 4.8 GHz for me). So, change yours to +0.005V and then we'll see what happens.
> 
> Also, the Offset is a calculation based on your VID. I can explain this later. For now, start with +0.005V and then we'll go from there.


Hmm, setting to +0.005V gives me on load 1.400V with temperatures between 82C and 86C. At idle, the temps are still the same, between 40C to 45C and the voltage betwee. 0.992V and 1.080V. The temps are still too high right?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Hmm, setting to +0.005V gives me on load 1.400V with temperatures between 82C and 86C. At idle, the temps are still the same, between 40C to 45C and the voltage betwee. 0.992V and 1.080V. The temps are still too high right?


I'm afraid so. Maybe you're right that this 2500K is a bit defective (at least for overclocking). For what it's worth, you have my sympathy.

Still, these are safe temps.

Try a negative offset, like maybe -0.005V. It will lower the voltage just a little bit more. Keep "increasing" the negative offset more and more and more until it becomes obvious that your voltage is too low for stability.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm afraid so. Maybe you're right that this 2500K is a bit defective (at least for overclocking). For what it's worth, you have my sympathy.
> 
> Still, these are safe temps.
> 
> Try a negative offset, like maybe -0.005V. It will lower the voltage just a little bit more. Keep "increasing" the negative offset more and more and more until it becomes obvious that your voltage is too low for stability.


Ahh, that makes sense now. I thought the 0.005v was like a plus/minus kinda thing where it was some kinda threshold. Like 0.005v more or less than what it is rated at. I don't really get this. So with a negative sign, it will tend to 'reduce' the voltage when trying to achieve a higher clock speed instead of increasing it, as it should be logically?

Do you have a recommended range on how much should my voltages be on idle and on load? Like 100% load, voltage should be between 1.3v and 1.4v etc? So i can work out the best config for my rig.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Ahh, that makes sense now. I thought the 0.005v was like a plus/minus kinda thing where it was some kinda threshold. Like 0.005v more or less than what it is rated at. I don't really get this. So with a negative sign, it will tend to 'reduce' the voltage when trying to achieve a higher clock speed instead of increasing it, as it should be logically?


The Offset is either added to or subtracted from the VID of your current multiplier (each multiplier has its own VID). So, using a positive offset adds to the VID, and using a negative one subtracts from it. It really is just as simple as this. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Do you have a recommended range on how much should my voltages be on idle and on load? Like 100% load, voltage should be between 1.3v and 1.4v etc? So i can work out the best config for my rig.


Well, not really. Every CPU is different, so it's necessary to experiment. Although, I think the average core voltage needed for 4.4 GHz ranges between like 1.3V and 1.35V. Some CPUs need a little more than this, and some need a little less than this.

For now, I recommend using a Manual voltage instead of Offset until you're ready to finalize your overclock.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The Offset is either added to or subtracted from the VID of your current multiplier (each multiplier has its own VID). So, using a positive offset adds to the VID, and using a negative one subtracts from it. It really is just as simple as this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, not really. Every CPU is different, so it's necessary to experiment. Although, I think the average core voltage needed for 4.4 GHz ranges between like 1.3V and 1.35V. Some CPUs need a little more than this, and some need a little less than this.
> 
> For now, I recommend using a Manual voltage instead of Offset until you're ready to finalize your overclock.


Don't mind me asking, but what is a VID?

So far, running at at a negative offset of 0.005v gives me an average of 1.384v on load. The temps are still roughly the same, maybe 1 or 2 degrees lower, nothing significant. To tell you the truth, i am happy at this 4.4Ghz. My family uses this rig so i am more inclined to it being fast, stable and have low temps. I do not need it to be blazing fast anyway. So right now, i keep putting increasing the value of my negative offset until i reach the target range of 1.3v to 1.35v? Will this result in any unstability when using the PC, like all of a sudden it crashes or hangs because there is not enough voltage to the CPU?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Don't mind me asking, but what is a VID?


From what I've seen here on OCN, it's supposed to be the voltage that is needed in order to keep your CPU stable at the current multiplier. Core Temp and Real Temp both show the VID (click the little button a few times in Real Temp to see it). I recommend checking the VID while Prime95 is running because if your multiplier sits at 16 while it's idling, then you'd see the VID for the x16 multiplier instead of the VID for x44. Each VID has its own multiplier.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Don't mind me asking, but what is a VID?
> So far, running at at a negative offset of 0.005v gives me an average of 1.384v on load. The temps are still roughly the same, maybe 1 or 2 degrees lower, nothing significant. To tell you the truth, i am happy at this 4.4Ghz. My family uses this rig so i am more inclined to it being fast, stable and have low temps. I do not need it to be blazing fast anyway. So right now, i keep putting increasing the value of my negative offset until i reach the target range of 1.3v to 1.35v?


For now, that may be the easiest way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Will this result in any unstability when using the PC, like all of a sudden it crashes or hangs because there is not enough voltage to the CPU?


The only way to know if it's stable is by testing it with Prime95 in the ways that are commonly recommended. If you don't want to do that (or if you can't because the family keeps using the PC too often), then keep it at stock. If you don't test the stability, then you will regret it later on.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> From what I've seen here on OCN, it's supposed to be the voltage that is needed in order to keep your CPU stable at the current multiplier. Core Temp and Real Temp both show the VID (click the little button a few times in Real Temp to see it). I recommend checking the VID while Prime95 is running because if your multiplier sits at 16 while it's idling, then you'd see the VID for the x16 multiplier instead of the VID for x44. Each VID has its own multiplier.
> 
> For now, that may be the easiest way.
> 
> The only way to know if it's stable is by testing it with Prime95 in the ways that are commonly recommended. If you don't want to do that (or if you can't because the family keeps using the PC too often), then keep it at stock. If you don't test the stability, then you will regret it later on.


Had to set my offset to -0.040v. I get about 1.344. The temperature difference is nothing fantastic. Maybe about 4 degrees lower. Idle temps are the same. Oh well... haha. So does this mean that my chip requires less voltage to run but it creates alot of heat in the process? I need to try to find a way to understand this. Haha. And also, leaving it like this, will there be any negative side effects from a theoretical perspective? I don't have the time to really test it for long periods of time.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Had to set my offset to -0.040v. I get about 1.344. The temperature difference is nothing fantastic. Maybe about 4 degrees lower. Idle temps are the same. Oh well... haha. So does this mean that my chip requires less voltage to run but it creates alot of heat in the process? I need to try to find a way to understand this. Haha. And also, leaving it like this, will there be any negative side effects from a theoretical perspective? I don't have the time to really test it for long periods of time.


The only way to know is by testing the stability. If you don't want to do that or if you can't, then stay at stock.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The only way to know is by testing the stability. If you don't want to do that or if you can't, then stay at stock.


Oh well, i'll just leave it as it is for now. Until someone complains that the rig is unstable or something then i will just act on it. In your professional opinion, as it is, all the numbers are within safe specifications right?

Temps
Idle: 40 to 45C
Load: 80 to 85C

Voltages
Idle: 0.944 to 1.128V
Load: 1.338 to 1.352V

Offset: -0.040


----------



## malmental

my 'night rider' unit, P8P67 WS Rev B3
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2577517

Temps
Package: 29C / 55C
Cores
Idle: 25 to 28C
Load: 53 to 57C

Voltages
Idle up to 4.2GHz: 0.944 to 1.128V
Load: 1.288 to 1.320V

Offset: -0.040

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: medium
VRM Frequency: auto
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:
Phase Control: optimized
Internal PPL overvoltage: enable
Duty Control: thermal
CPU Current Capability: 120%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: -
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V
DRAM Voltage: 1.505
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: disabled


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Oh well, i'll just leave it as it is for now. Until someone complains that the rig is unstable or something then i will just act on it. In your professional opinion, as it is, all the numbers are within safe specifications right?
> Temps
> Idle: 40 to 45C
> Load: 80 to 85C
> Voltages
> Idle: 0.944 to 1.128V
> Load: 1.338 to 1.352V
> Offset: -0.040


I'd rather that you leave it at stock because you're only asking for trouble. One reason is that if it's unstable, then it's stressful on your hardware (not good). Another is that there's a risk of data corruption, and this can happen at any time to any file (or any group of files, etc.). To me, these are reasons enough to either leave it at stock, or tell everyone the computer is off-limits for a couple of days while you make absolutely sure that it's stable.

I think that you are better off leaving it at stock. Besides, do you notice a difference between stock and 4.4 GHz?


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'd rather that you leave it at stock because you're only asking for trouble. One reason is that if it's unstable, then it's stressful on your hardware (not good). Another is that there's a risk of data corruption, and this can happen at any time to any file (or any group of files, etc.). To me, these are reasons enough to either leave it at stock, or tell everyone the computer is off-limits for a couple of days while you make absolutely sure that it's stable.
> 
> I think that you are better off leaving it at stock. Besides, do you notice a difference between stock and 4.4 GHz?


Yup, the difference is quite significant especially when gaming. I actually have been following your template since last year, but since i was using the stock cooler, i only bumped it up to 3.6Ghz. But from 3.6 to 4.4Ghz, the difference is there man.Tried to go 4.6Ghz, but it just hung when loading windows. Oh well. Thank you so much for your help man! +rep.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Yup, the difference is quite significant especially when gaming. I actually have been following your template since last year, but since i was using the stock cooler, i only bumped it up to 3.6Ghz. But from 3.6 to 4.4Ghz, the difference is there man.Tried to go 4.6Ghz, but it just hung when loading windows. Oh well. Thank you so much for your help man! +rep.


You're welcome. Just remember, testing the stability is pretty much a requirement if you want it to be overclocked without any risks. If my computer were the family computer, then it would be at stock because my parents need to use their laptop on a daily basis.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You're welcome. Just remember, testing the stability is pretty much a requirement if you want it to be overclocked without any risks. If my computer were the family computer, then it would be at stock because my parents need to use their laptop on a daily basis.


Yeah, that i know. Reminds me back when i was younger with my Athlon XP. Now the BIOS is so simple. It automatically resets if there is an error and everything is so straightforward. Everything is AI controlled now and not manual. Back in my day, there was no other way to clear a bad BIOS setting other than resetting the CMOS jumper settings. Or hell, i just found out a few months back on OCN that the best way to prevent bacteria/algae from growing in WC loops was with silver and distilled water and not those colourful coolants were the best option. Or going into BIOS, writing down every possibility and testing for the best configuration. Now, i'm just too lazy, like what i did, just followed your template almost right up to the last digit.

Last year when i was building this i5 rig, i was amazed by how many colours there was in the BIOS and the ability to use the mouse to select options. Times have changed so fast man. Back when i was a kid, there was only 1 PC in the whole house and BIOS has only 2 colours. Now, everyone in the house has a laptop and a smartphone. Truth be told, the i5 i feel is under utilised. Its just being used for internet surfing. Of course, once in a while i would play games on it, but as i get older, rarely. So it came to a point where since i was the only heavy user, (mostly playing games on it), i would be the one encountering the problems. Even so, it happened only once or twice.

Sometimes i wonder how old are you guys and how you can keep up with technology moving so fast. Once in a while, friends come up to me and ask me about up to date PC stuff and i'll be stumped. For example, i only found out that there is a new socket, 2011 a few days ago. Haha. Time flies man...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Yeah, that i know. Reminds me back when i was younger with my Athlon XP. Now the BIOS is so simple. It automatically resets if there is an error and everything is so straightforward. Everything is AI controlled now and not manual. Back in my day, there was no other way to clear a bad BIOS setting other than resetting the CMOS jumper settings. Or hell, i just found out a few months back on OCN that the best way to prevent bacteria/algae from growing in WC loops was with silver and distilled water and not those colourful coolants were the best option. Or going into BIOS, writing down every possibility and testing for the best configuration. Now, i'm just too lazy, like what i did, just followed your template almost right up to the last digit.
> Last year when i was building this i5 rig, i was amazed by how many colours there was in the BIOS and the ability to use the mouse to select options. Times have changed so fast man. Back when i was a kid, there was only 1 PC in the whole house and BIOS has only 2 colours. Now, everyone in the house has a laptop and a smartphone. Truth be told, the i5 i feel is under utilised. Its just being used for internet surfing. Of course, once in a while i would play games on it, but as i get older, rarely. So it came to a point where since i was the only heavy user, (mostly playing games on it), i would be the one encountering the problems. Even so, it happened only once or twice.
> Sometimes i wonder how old are you guys and how you can keep up with technology moving so fast. Once in a while, friends come up to me and ask me about up to date PC stuff and i'll be stumped. For example, i only found out that there is a new socket, 2011 a few days ago. Haha. Time flies man...


I'm 33 years old, but I practically live on OCN. So, it's hard for me to miss much.  Not only that, but if it weren't for OCN, then I wouldn't know any of the things I know. I mean, before I joined OCN, I thought I was cool because I was 100% comfortable going into my little pre-built and upgrading things like the memory, the video card, hard drives, optical drives, adding a sound card, and, um, I think that covers it. I didn't dare consider replacing my CPU or motherboard because I didn't know anything about that, so it kind of scared me. Still, I still remember that every time I walked into the local CompUSA, I would drool a bit over all of the Do It Yourself parts. They had everything needed to build your own, but I didn't look into it because I didn't have my own money at the time.

My infantile knowledge also involved all things related to software and Windows. lol I mean, I really thought I knew something back then. Today, I feel like I don't know anything at all because I can see how much there is to know.

So yeah, I owe everything to OCN.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Use a manually-set Offset. Using Auto is the reason why it's sitting at 1.424V under load at 4.4 GHz.
> 
> Try +0.005V first and then we'll go from there.
> 
> *Edit:* Alternatively, you can use a Manual voltage instead of Offset for now. That way, you can keep overclocking without continually having to readjust the Offset. I mean, it just becomes too much guesswork trying to babysit the Offset voltage every time you change the multiplier.


You told me before to start with Offset and not Manual


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You told me before to start with Offset and not Manual


There's no harm in starting with an Offset voltage. It's just that I've since learned that it's easier to start with an Manual voltage. So if someone would prefer to start with an Offset voltage even though they know it would be easier to use a Manual voltage, then that's no problem.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You told me before to start with Offset and not Manual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's no harm in starting with an Offset voltage. It's just that I've since learned that it's easier to start with an Manual voltage. So if someone would prefer to start with an Offset voltage even though they know it would be easier to use a Manual voltage, then that's no problem.
Click to expand...

*TwoCables* is correct. Anyone can do it either way, but manual is considered better at finding your stable vcore as you can set a voltage that does not change and verify stability at that voltage. Then raise or lower it in a more controled way until you knew exactly what vcore was needed for the current OC you are trying for.

After that you can figure out what the offset needs to be and work towards getting that setting right knowing what vcore you are trying to hit to be stable.

You can end up at the same place by working through offsets, but it is a little more tricky to do so. Most OC'ers I know start with manual. I do to. Try it next time and see if you like it better too.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Oh well, i'll just leave it as it is for now. Until someone complains that the rig is unstable or something then i will just act on it. In your professional opinion, as it is, all the numbers are within safe specifications right?
> Temps
> 
> Idle: 40 to 45C
> 
> Load: 80 to 85C
> Voltages
> 
> Idle: 0.944 to 1.128V
> 
> Load: 1.338 to 1.352V
> 
> Offset: -0.040
> 
> 
> 
> I'd rather that you leave it at stock because you're only asking for trouble. One reason is that if it's unstable, then it's stressful on your hardware (not good). Another is that there's a risk of data corruption, and this can happen at any time to any file (or any group of files, etc.). To me, these are reasons enough to either leave it at stock, or tell everyone the computer is off-limits for a couple of days while you make absolutely sure that it's stable.
> 
> I think that you are better off leaving it at stock. Besides, do you notice a difference between stock and 4.4 GHz?
Click to expand...

*crazydj*, good to see that you could lower your voltage some and your temps at least a little by doing so.









a quick question though - _what are your ambient temps_? = What is your room temp for where the computer is running?

Also, _what is the idle temp when you are at stock_?

One further thing on stability testing. Best if you can do a good long run of prime95 to verify stability so that your system does not end up dying in the middle of something important and maybe currupting the OS or something else important as *TwoCables* has noted. But, that can take lots of time to do as you know.

So, a quick way to verify if your are stable enough to take the risk of not doing the prime run is to run some *IBT* (v2.54) default runs (10x) and also *Cinebench* (R11.5) all tests. These two programs can quickly find if you are too close to the edge of stability to keep taking the risk of data curruption.

They are on the web for free. Just google them. Download them. And try to run them on your system at the 4.4GHz at your lower vcore to see how it does. If they run, then you are probably OK and can even try lowering the vcore further to reduce temps more. If not, raise the vcore until they both can run all their tests.

These are not the same as prime stable, but at least you can have some sense as to your system stability in a much quicker way. And they are part of the battery of tests OC'ers do run to verify stability as no one program does it all.

But do try to run something. Otherwise you may end up having a much bigger and more time consuming problem if you want to enjoy the higher OC without any idea as to how stable your system is. We all know there is a difference in using the OC for gaming. But it needs to be stable or put back to stock. Or you may run into a bigger problem we hope you can avoid.

Or you can hope you are lucky and have it good enough!!! Maybe...


----------



## TwoCables

There's something else I thought of: what if a family member is in the middle of something extremely important and the computer locks up on them or gives them a BSOD, or suddenly restarts on them? What if that were to happen when you're not home? Can you agree that maybe it would be better if you left it at stock since there isn't enough time to give a true test of the system's stability?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There's no harm in starting with an Offset voltage. It's just that I've since learned that it's easier to start with an Manual voltage. So if someone would prefer to start with an Offset voltage even though they know it would be easier to use a Manual voltage, then that's no problem.


Actually last year you recommended me to start with Manual and I understood why. Then you were gone. When you came back, I asked for help again and you advised me to start with Offset. I asked why and you told me "don't ask, just trust me" (something along that thought)







So yeah, I don't understood why you recommended Offset recently to me, lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> *TwoCables* is correct. Anyone can do it either way, but manual is considered better at finding your stable vcore as you can set a voltage that does not change and verify stability at that voltage. Then raise or lower it in a more controled way until you knew exactly what vcore was needed for the current OC you are trying for.
> After that you can figure out what the offset needs to be and work towards getting that setting right knowing what vcore you are trying to hit to be stable.
> You can end up at the same place by working through offsets, but it is a little more tricky to do so. Most OC'ers I know start with manual. I do to. Try it next time and see if you like it better too.


If I start with Offset, won't it be the same as using Manual because they just both have fixed increments?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Actually last year you recommended me to start with Manual and I understood why. Then you were gone. When you came back, I asked for help again and you advised me to start with Offset. I asked why and you told me "don't ask, just trust me" (something along that thought)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, I don't understood why you recommended Offset recently to me, lol.
> If I start with Offset, won't it be the same as using Manual because they just both have fixed increments?


I don't know. I probably had the sense that you really, really, really, really wanted to use an Offset voltage and I probably had the sense that you didn't need to take the easier route of starting with a Manual voltage.

Besides, was there any harm done? I mean, really. It's in the past, my friend. 

Anyway, starting with Offset is not the same as Manual because each multiplier has a different VID and therefore you have to recalculate the Offset every time you adjust the multiplier. With a manual voltage, it's always the same regardless of the multiplier because it has no relation to the VID at all.

Now, if you were to jump straight to your target multiplier like I did (I jumped straight to 4.7 GHz), then starting with an Offset would be the best.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There's no harm in starting with an Offset voltage. It's just that I've since learned that it's easier to start with an Manual voltage. So if someone would prefer to start with an Offset voltage even though they know it would be easier to use a Manual voltage, then that's no problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually last year you recommended me to start with Manual and I understood why. Then you were gone. When you came back, I asked for help again and you advised me to start with Offset. I asked why and you told me "don't ask, just trust me" (something along that thought)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, I don't understood why you recommended Offset recently to me, lol.
Click to expand...

We are all learning more all the time and we try to help out people as best we can and from where they are at. I am sure *TwoCables* was doing his best to help you. I hope he did help and you thanked him for it at the time(?). And I expect he would try to help you again if you had a problem he thought he could help you with.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> *TwoCables* is correct. Anyone can do it either way, but manual is considered better at finding your stable vcore as you can set a voltage that does not change and verify stability at that voltage. Then raise or lower it in a more controled way until you knew exactly what vcore was needed for the current OC you are trying for.
> After that you can figure out what the offset needs to be and work towards getting that setting right knowing what vcore you are trying to hit to be stable.
> You can end up at the same place by working through offsets, but it is a little more tricky to do so. Most OC'ers I know start with manual. I do to. Try it next time and see if you like it better too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I start with Offset, won't it be the same as using Manual because they just both have fixed increments?
Click to expand...

You can. What I like about manual is you actually type in the vcore you want and it runs that vcore. And the vcore does not go up and down with speedstep freq changes. Nice and simple. At least I like it. You do not have to do it though. Offset method can work too. I have used both. You decide what's best for you.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know. I probably had the sense that you really, really, really, really wanted to use an Offset voltage and I probably had the sense that you didn't need to take the easier route of starting with a Manual voltage.
> 
> Besides, was there any harm done? I mean, really. It's in the past, my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, starting with Offset is not the same as Manual because each multiplier has a different VID and therefore you have to recalculate the Offset every time you adjust the multiplier. With a manual voltage, it's always the same regardless of the multiplier because it has no relation to the VID at all.
> 
> Now, if you were to jump straight to your target multiplier like I did (I jumped straight to 4.7 GHz), then starting with an Offset would be the best.


Nothing really, I just wondered why. Curiosity kills









Ahh gotcha on that. Thanks!


----------



## TwoCables

I prefer using an Offset voltage for the final overclock because that way it's not being powered by 1.376V when all my CPU is doing is idling (it's idling at a nice and low ~1.0V right now). However, I've learned during my time here on OCN that it's really best to use a Manual voltage while you are in the middle of finding your final overclock. After that, you can switch to an Offset and go get your game on.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Oh well, i'll just leave it as it is for now. Until someone complains that the rig is unstable or something then i will just act on it. In your professional opinion, as it is, all the numbers are within safe specifications right?
> 
> Temps
> Idle: 40 to 45C
> Load: 80 to 85C
> 
> Voltages
> Idle: 0.944 to 1.128V
> Load: 1.338 to 1.352V
> 
> Offset: -0.040
> 
> 
> 
> *crazydj*, good to see that you could lower your voltage some and your temps at least a little by doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a quick question though - _what are your ambient temps_? = What is your room temp for where the computer is running?
> 
> Also, _what is the idle temp when you are at stock_?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> One further thing on stability testing. Best if you can do a good long run of prime95 to verify stability so that your system does not end up dying in the middle of something important and maybe currupting the OS or something else important as *TwoCables* has noted. But, that can take lots of time to do as you know.
> 
> So, a quick way to verify if your are stable enough to take the risk of not doing the prime run is to run some *IBT* (v2.54) default runs (10x) and also *Cinebench* (R11.5) all tests. These two programs can quickly find if you are too close to the edge of stability to keep taking the risk of data curruption.
> 
> They are on the web for free. Just google them. Download them. And try to run them on your system at the 4.4GHz at your lower vcore to see how it does. If they run, then you are probably OK and can even try lowering the vcore further to reduce temps more. If not, raise the vcore until they both can run all their tests.
> 
> These are not the same as prime stable, but at least you can have some sense as to your system stability in a much quicker way. And they are part of the battery of tests OC'ers do run to verify stability as no one program does it all.
> 
> But do try to run something. Otherwise you may end up having a much bigger and more time consuming problem if you want to enjoy the higher OC without any idea as to how stable your system is. We all know there is a difference in using the OC for gaming. But it needs to be stable or put back to stock. Or you may run into a bigger problem we hope you can avoid.
> 
> Or you can hope you are lucky and have it good enough!!! Maybe...
Click to expand...

Probably *crazydj* doesn't have an equipment to monitor ambient temperature but I can give you. The ambient temperature during daytime is between 31C to 35C. So, it is _endless summer_ here. The idle temp 40C - 45C when idle is what I expected in this ambient (not really idle, probably while browsing + checking email, not heavy task). If case cooling is setup right, idle temp can go to high 30s degrees rather than low 40s. 80C to 85C also what I expected when under load. Without AC, these numbers are normal.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I prefer using an Offset voltage for the final overclock because that way it's not being powered by 1.376V when all my CPU is doing is idling (it's idling at a nice and low ~1.0V right now). However, I've learned during my time here on OCN that it's really best to use a Manual voltage while you are in the middle of finding your final overclock. After that, you can switch to an Offset and go get your game on.


Yes and while you are at Manual voltage you just have to subtract the vcore from the vid to obtain the needed offset, right?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yes and while you are at Manual voltage you just have to subtract the vcore from the vid to obtain the needed offset, right?


Or, subtract the VID from the vcore, depending on which one is lower.

However, if your Load-Line Calibration is set so that you get vDroop, then the Offset calculation won't be simple. To make it simple, raise the Load-Line Calibration setting so that there's no vDroop at all (or, very little of it without getting vRise).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Or, subtract the VID from the vcore, depending on which one is lower.
> 
> However, if your Load-Line Calibration is set so that you get vDroop, then the Offset calculation won't be simple. To make it simple, raise the Load-Line Calibration setting so that there's no vDroop at all (or, very little of it without getting vRise).


And that would be a load line calibration of Ultra High, right?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Probably *crazydj* doesn't have an equipment to monitor ambient temperature but I can give you. The ambient temperature during daytime is between 31C to 35C. So, it is _endless summer_ here. The idle temp 40C - 45C when idle is what I expected in this ambient (not really idle, probably while browsing + checking email, not heavy task). If case cooling is setup right, idle temp can go to high 30s degrees rather than low 40s. 80C to 85C also what I expected when under load. Without AC, these numbers are normal.


Thanks *kizwan*. That answers that question. Then he is probably good at idle. Just a little stability checking away with IBT and Cinebench for *crazydj* to be good to go.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And that would be a load line calibration of Ultra High, right?


Usually (at least from what I've noticed around here).


----------



## malmental

you guys....









first off a negative offset is easier than you guys make it seems with this overclocking talk.
and an ASUS board doesn't not need LLC @ ultra high for an overclock of only 4.7-4.8GHz..

ridiculous..


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> you guys....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> first off a negative offset is easier than you guys make it seems with this overclocking talk.
> and an ASUS board doesn't not need LLC @ ultra high for an overclock of only 4.7-4.8GHz..
> ridiculous..


about the llc, mine does require ultra high for stability on my 4.7ghz oc


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> you guys....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> first off a negative offset is easier than you guys make it seems with this overclocking talk.
> and an ASUS board doesn't not need LLC @ ultra high for an overclock of only 4.7-4.8GHz..
> ridiculous..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about the llc, mine does require ultra high for stability on my 4.7ghz oc
Click to expand...

I got my overclocking guide from an *ASUS tech via hardforum*, he clocked over 100 chips from different batches and summed up some facts.
this is direct from him:

(summary)
ASUS (P8 series)
i5-2500K - general voltage notes (P8P67) referenced:
default voltage levels with multi up to x43: 1.24-1.26V
multi x44 up to x47 voltage: 1.30 - 1.375v

(copy and paste)
Results are representative of 100 D2 CPUs that were binned and tested for stability under load; these results will most likely represent retail CPUs.
1. Approximately 50% of CPUs can go up to 4.4~4.5 GHz
2. Approximately 40% of CPUs can go up to 4.6~4.7 GHz
3. Approximately 10% of CPUs can go up to 4.8~5 GHz (50+ multipliers are about 2% of this group)
Additionally it is recommended to keep 「C1E」and「EIST」option enabled for the best overclock scaling. This is different than previous Intel overclocking expectations where the best scaling was with disabled power states or power management options.

Quick Note regarding Voltage Scaling - Internal binning of both D1 and D2 parts we discovered consistent voltage scaling patterns.
1. For K series parts, the stock voltage supplied will allow for consistent overclocking generally up to a multiplier of 43x. There is potential for the multi to be raised to 44x depending on the load induced. This default voltage range be approx 1.240 to 1.260 under load.
2. Increased range between 44 to 47x multipliers will generally require a voltage range between 1.30 to 1.375V with an LLC recommended setting of high to ultra high.
3. Increasing the range between 48 to 50x multiplier will generally require a voltage range between 1.40 to 1.500 with a LLC recommended setting of ultra high.
4. Increased range between 50 to 52 (52 generally considered peak max multiplier except for rare 54x parts) will generally require a CPU voltage range between 1.515 to 1.535V with LLC at Ultra High and potential fine adjustments to the CPU skew range.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110


----------



## malmental

maybe your ARE correct on the LLC setting, I apologize on that one though I would try high first and then see if it works.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> you guys....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> first off a negative offset is easier than you guys make it seems with this overclocking talk.
> and an ASUS board doesn't not need LLC @ ultra high for an overclock of only 4.7-4.8GHz..
> ridiculous..


We aren't saying that using or setting up an offset is difficult. We're just saying that it's easier to use a Manual voltage until you're ready to finalize your overclock. That way, you have one less thing to do during the overclocking process.

Regarding the LLC setting: I won't speak for anyone else, but I am not saying that my system needs it for 4.7 to 4.8 GHz. Initially, the only reason why I wanted to use Ultra High is that I found it reduces my vDroop down to almost nothing, and I came from an era of overclocking where this is very desirable. So, I think I was just going with what I knew and what I was comfortable with. I never thought to myself that I won't be able to stabilize my system with a lower LLC setting or even no LLC at all. When I was taught about the Offset voltage, I found a new and better reason for using Ultra High: the lack of vDroop makes calculating the Offset as easy as adding 1+1. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I got my overclocking guide from an *ASUS tech via hardforum*, he clocked over 100 chips from different batches and summed up some facts.


This guide is written by JJ who is the Senior Technical Marketing Director at ASUS. So, he's more or less a salesman. We here at OCN have much more combined experience than he'll ever have.  I'm not trying to be competitive with him or anything like that, I'm just saying that I think his guide is good, but we have come a long way since then.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I got my overclocking guide from an *ASUS tech via hardforum*, he clocked over 100 chips from different batches and summed up some facts.
> this is direct from him:
> (summary)
> ASUS (P8 series)
> i5-2500K - general voltage notes (P8P67) referenced:
> default voltage levels with multi up to x43: 1.24-1.26V
> multi x44 up to x47 voltage: 1.30 - 1.375v
> (copy and paste)
> Results are representative of 100 D2 CPUs that were binned and tested for stability under load; these results will most likely represent retail CPUs.
> 1. Approximately 50% of CPUs can go up to 4.4~4.5 GHz
> 2. Approximately 40% of CPUs can go up to 4.6~4.7 GHz
> 3. Approximately 10% of CPUs can go up to 4.8~5 GHz (50+ multipliers are about 2% of this group)
> Additionally it is recommended to keep 「C1E」and「EIST」option enabled for the best overclock scaling. This is different than previous Intel overclocking expectations where the best scaling was with disabled power states or power management options.
> Quick Note regarding Voltage Scaling - Internal binning of both D1 and D2 parts we discovered consistent voltage scaling patterns.
> *1. For K series parts, the stock voltage supplied will allow for consistent overclocking generally up to a multiplier of 43x. There is potential for the multi to be raised to 44x depending on the load induced. This default voltage range be approx 1.240 to 1.260 under load.*
> 2. Increased range between 44 to 47x multipliers will generally require a voltage range between 1.30 to 1.375V with an LLC recommended setting of high to ultra high.
> 3. Increasing the range between 48 to 50x multiplier will generally require a voltage range between 1.40 to 1.500 with a LLC recommended setting of ultra high.
> 4. Increased range between 50 to 52 (52 generally considered peak max multiplier except for rare 54x parts) will generally require a CPU voltage range between 1.515 to 1.535V with LLC at Ultra High and potential fine adjustments to the CPU skew range.
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110


Bold part, totally wrong about the default voltages. I have 40x multi on everything default, offset mode, it goes over 1.3v. Probably changed with bios updates.

More info: When c1e disabled, EIST and TURBO on, it idles at 1.328v with all cores at 4ghz. When C1E enabled, it idles 0.8-0.9v with all cores at 1600mhz. When it's on load, it ranges between 1.26-1.28v, in between speed changes, it can spike to 1.328v. So the MAX value of vcore on my OpenHardwareMonitor is always 1.328v.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> Bold part, totally wrong about the default voltages. I have 40x multi on everything default, offset mode, it goes over 1.3v. Probably changed with bios updates.


Well, he did say "generally".


----------



## malmental

none the less, not trying to argue as I have love for all my fellow ASUS P8 brethren..
just saying the guide works well for me and both my P8 boards including my Z77.

cheers.

edit:
only note about the 3570K and the 2500K difference in voltage is that with the 3570K of course your working with a lesser voltage.
I have found out personally that my 3570K on my (older and gone) P8Z68 ran my voltages more so like my 2500K
no matter manual or auto with - offset.
yes with a BIOS update Z68 run Ivy we all know but the voltages seem not the same when on a Z77 board, ran higher..

cheers again.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> none the less, not trying to argue as I have love for all my fellow ASUS P8 brethren..
> just saying the guide works well for me and both my P8 boards including my Z77.
> cheers.


Yeah, I mean that guide helped me too. I also used the Sandy Bridge Overclocking Newegg TV video and I think I also had a healthy serving of assistance from this thread too.


----------



## malmental

never saw the Newegg TV one, I'm gonna look it up now...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> never say the Newegg TV one, I'm gonna look it up now...


You don't have to look it up:






The actual overclocking in the UEFI part starts here:






It ends at


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> maybe your ARE correct on the LLC setting, I apologize on that one though I would try high first and then see if it works.


If you read almost all guides at OCN you will see that an LLC setting of Ultra High is generally recommended. Now if you get lockups at that setting, you can try lowering it to just High and then increasing your Offset to compesate.

@TwoCables, I don't understand how would the computation of Offset is affected by LLC? In the guide of munaim, you simply subtract (still) if you use High LLC compared to when using Ultra High.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If you read almost all guides at OCN you will see that an LLC setting of Ultra High is generally recommended. Now if you get lockups at that setting, you can try lowering it to just High and then increasing your Offset to compesate.
> @TwoCables, I don't understand how would the computation of Offset is affected by LLC? In the guide of munaim, you simply subtract (still) if you use High LLC compared to when using Ultra High.


I think that the more vDroop there is, the less straightforward the calculation is. I mean, the idea is to find the difference between the VID and the core voltage seen in CPU-Z while using a Manual voltage. When you find that difference, that's your offset. So that's what I mean when I say the more vDroop there is, the less straightforward the calculation is. If I were to switch my LLC to High from Ultra High, then I would have to adjust my offset. The problem is that it would be more guesswork because of the extra vDroop.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think that the more vDroop there is, the less straightforward the calculation is. I mean, the idea is to find the difference between the VID and the core voltage seen in CPU-Z while using a Manual voltage. When you find that difference, that's your offset. So that's what I mean when I say the more vDroop there is, the less straightforward the calculation is. If I were to switch my LLC to High from Ultra High, then I would have to adjust my offset. The problem is that it would be more guesswork because of the extra vDroop.


But then with High LLC, there would be more Vdroop so you will see that the VID in CPUZ will be lower. So just subtract the two values again and you get the Offset, straight calculation also. All the LLC does is shift the load line and doesn't change it from being a straight line. So simple subtraction is still intact regardless of the LLC setting. Please correct me if I' wrong here.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But then with High LLC, there would be more Vdroop so you will see that the VID in CPUZ will be lower. So just subtract the two values again and you get the Offset, straight calculation also. All the LLC does is shift the load line and doesn't change it from being a straight line. So simple subtraction is still intact regardless of the LLC setting. Please correct me if I' wrong here.


I would need to test it, but I'm not willing to disturb my settings.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I would need to test it, but I'm not willing to disturb my settings.


No worries, just stating what I read and think about it. And it should be noted that a lower LLC produces a more efficient overclock as far as power consumption is concerned.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> No worries, just stating what I read and think about it. And it should be noted that a lower LLC produces a more efficient overclock as far as power consumption is concerned.


How? Is this because the VRM isn't working as hard? Why is the power consumption lower with a lower LLC?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> maybe your ARE correct on the LLC setting, I apologize on that one though I would try high first and then see if it works.
> 
> 
> 
> If you read almost all guides at OCN you will see that an LLC setting of Ultra High is generally recommended. *Now if you get lockups at that setting, you can try lowering it to just High and then increasing your Offset to compensate.*
> 
> @TwoCables, I don't understand how would the computation of Offset is affected by LLC? In the guide of munaim, you simply subtract (still) if you use High LLC compared to when using Ultra High.
Click to expand...

exactly what I was thinking.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> How? Is this because the VRM isn't working as hard? Why is the power consumption lower with a lower LLC?


I habe to search again here who explained about that in a very detailed manner. Sorry, don't have any facts to back that up right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> exactly what I was thinking.


Sorry, I forgot to add. I meant lockups at idle ONLY.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I habe to search again here who explained about that in a very detailed manner. Sorry, don't have any facts to back that up right now.
> Sorry, I forgot to add. I meant lockups at idle ONLY.


If using an Offset voltage, idle instability is eliminated by disabling the C3 and C6 states.


----------



## General121

Have to redo my overclock once I'm done moving my rig into my new nzxt switch 810 and corsair ax750


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> How? Is this because the VRM isn't working as hard? Why is the power consumption lower with a lower LLC?
> 
> 
> 
> I habe to search again here who explained about that in a very detailed manner. Sorry, don't have any facts to back that up right now.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> exactly what I was thinking.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry, I forgot to add. I meant lockups at idle ONLY.
Click to expand...

I know what you meant / referring to..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> If using an Offset voltage, idle instability is eliminated by disabling the C3 and C6 states.


A lot of people disable those power saving states and they still experience idle instability. These are all documented in the Sandy Stable thread.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> A lot of people disable those power saving states and they still experience idle instability. These are all documented in the Sandy Stable thread.


Interesting. This is the first I've heard of it. Oh well.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Interesting. This is the first I've heard of it. Oh well.


Not lurking in the Sandy Stabe thread eh?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Not lurking in the Sandy Stabe thread eh?


Nah, I haven't felt drawn to that thread yet.


----------



## malmental

me neither..


----------



## bodean

Which ports on the P8Z68/v Gen 3 are the USB 3.0 ports?


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Which ports on the P8Z68/v Gen 3 are the USB 3.0 ports?


Blue ones.


----------



## malmental

+1


----------



## Jayjr1105

Anyone rocking an IB chip in any of these boards yet? I'm curious to know if any OC settings are way different than Sandy. Also, what was that Asus recommended static VRM frequency for sub 5.0 overclocks.. was is 350?


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Anyone rocking an IB chip in any of these boards yet? I'm curious to know if any OC settings are way different than Sandy. Also, what was that Asus recommended static VRM frequency for sub 5.0 overclocks.. was is 350?


Yeah, 350 is what I heard and what I'm using.


----------



## malmental

when I was running my 3570K on my Z68 I noticed the voltage ran slightly higher then on my current Z77 board
(in-between what I would call normal IB voltage on Z77 and SB on Z68)
but also I'm factoring a better BIOS and Digi-VRM system on my Z77.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> when I was running my 3570K on my Z68 I noticed the voltage ran slightly higher then on my current Z77 board
> (in-between what I would call normal IB voltage on Z77 and SB on Z68)
> but also I'm factoring a better BIOS and Digi-VRM system on my Z77.


We have gotten into this before. I think its just a flukie thing with your boards. My 3770K only needs 1.168v to pass IBT on max @ 4.4 with my Z68 board. And Asus z68 boards have the digi+ vrm feature as well.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> when I was running my 3570K on my Z68 I noticed the voltage ran slightly higher then on my current Z77 board
> (in-between what I would call normal IB voltage on Z77 and SB on Z68)
> but also I'm factoring a better BIOS and Digi-VRM system on my Z77.
> 
> 
> 
> We have gotten into this before. I think its just a flukie thing with your boards. My 3770K only needs 1.168v to pass IBT on max @ 4.4 with my Z68 board. And Asus z68 boards have the digi+ vrm feature as well.
Click to expand...

my (now gone) P8Z68-M Pro doesn't have the typical Digi-VRM, look it up.
so it's not a fluky thing with my boards, it's this one board in-particular.
which leads me to believe that any board without the Digi-VRM might have this issue.
I've looked into this..

i'm in the process of lowering my voltage now since I am on a better mobo.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> my (now gone) P8Z68-M Pro doesn't have the typical Digi-VRM, look it up.
> so it's not a fluky thing with my boards, it's this one board in-particular.
> which leads me to believe that any board without the Digi-VRM might have this issue.
> I've looked into this..
> i'm in the process of lowering my voltage now since I am on a better mobo.


Well of course if you take the same chip, OC it on a 6 phase (without the digi+ vrm) and then on a 12 phase board with digi+ It's going to clock better and need less voltage on the new Z77. You just eluded to the fact it might be a z68~z77 difference which is completely untrue (at least in my case).

Perfect example... I sold my 2500K to a friend who bought a budget 6 phase Gigabyte board. He needs to feed it 1.33v to get 4.3 stable where on my board I could get 4.5 stable with 1.32v easily.

People always talk about "All you need is 6 phase to get 5.0GHz, blah, blah, blah" But it clearly makes a big difference to have a solid board with minimum 8+ phase IMO.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> my (now gone) P8Z68-M Pro doesn't have the typical Digi-VRM, look it up.
> so it's not a fluky thing with my boards, it's this one board in-particular.
> which leads me to believe that any board without the Digi-VRM might have this issue.
> I've looked into this..
> i'm in the process of lowering my voltage now since I am on a better mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> Well of course if you take the same chip, OC it on a 6 phase (without the digi+ vrm) and then on a 12 phase board with digi+ It's going to clock better and need less voltage on the new Z77. You just eluded to the fact it might be a z68~z77 difference which is completely untrue (at least in my case).
> 
> Perfect example... I sold my 2500K to a friend who bought a budget 6 phase Gigabyte board. He needs to feed it 1.33v to get 4.3 stable where on my board I could get 4.5 stable with 1.32v easily.
> 
> People always talk about "All you need is 6 phase to get 5.0GHz, blah, blah, blah" But it clearly makes a big difference to have a solid board with minimum 8+ phase IMO.
Click to expand...

agree to that..


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Anyone rocking an IB chip in any of these boards yet? I'm curious to know if any OC settings are way different than Sandy. Also, what was that Asus recommended static VRM frequency for sub 5.0 overclocks.. was is 350?


I used a Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 for several months on my 3770K without any issues. Little to no difference in BIOS settings when I went to a Z77. Vcore about the same. Both boards could get it to 5.2GHz. Yes to the 350 setting too.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I used a Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 for several months on my 3770K without any issues. Little to no difference in BIOS settings when I went to a Z77. Vcore about the same. Both boards could get it to 5.2GHz. Yes to the 350 setting too.


If I may ask, why didn't you just stick with the Z68 board?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I used a Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 for several months on my 3770K without any issues. Little to no difference in BIOS settings when I went to a Z77. Vcore about the same. Both boards could get it to 5.2GHz. Yes to the 350 setting too.
> 
> 
> 
> If I may ask, why didn't you just stick with the Z68 board?
Click to expand...

No problem *Jayjr1105*. I wanted to play with a MSI MPower Z77, and then a Sabertooth Z77, for fun and to see if I could get better OCing results and bench scores.

I did with the MPower which was a great board for OCing, and not any difference with the Sabertooth - a dissapointment of a board.

Really, I would have been fine with the Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 if I was not wanting to play with other MBs. I still have it and will probably put it into another computer soon as it is a fine MB for gaming, OCing, and general use. No problem using it with a 3770K and 3570K, as I have tried it with both and it has worked just fine.

Note: BIOS setting between sandy and ivy is mainly a lower vcore for the ivy - most, if not all, other settings are the same IIRC.


----------



## malmental

nice little story, I can relate to that...








me, I just wanted a better board..


----------



## ucode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> the Sabertooth - a dissapointment of a board.


In what way did you find it disappointing?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucode*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> the Sabertooth - a dissapointment of a board.
> 
> 
> 
> In what way did you find it disappointing?
Click to expand...

Well *ucode*, I expected it to outperform my Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3. I had hoped for better bench scores for cpu, mem, ssd and system benches and higher OCs.

I did get better performance from the MSI MPower Z77 which improved in all the bench areas while also allowing for lower vcore per/CPU OC.

But the Sabertooth Z77 was around the same as my P8Z68-V/Gen3, so it was a disappointment. For the price, it should have done something better....









I'm not really saying it is a bad board though. Just not what I had hoped it should be and expected it to be for the price. Nice MB, but I will not buy one again when I can get the same performance from less expensive boards, and better performance from less expensive boards too! The MPower is ~$30 cheaper than a Sabertooth.


----------



## TwoCables

The only thing good about 'better' boards like the Sabertooth (at least, in terms of what I care about) is they're supposed to be better at overclocking.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Well *ucode*, I expected it to outperform my Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3. I had hoped for better bench scores for cpu, mem, ssd and system benches and higher OCs.
> I did get better performance from the MSI MPower Z77 which improved in all the bench areas while also allowing for lower vcore per/CPU OC.
> But the Sabertooth Z77 was around the same as my P8Z68-V/Gen3, so it was a disappointment. For the price, it should have done something better....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not really saying it is a bad board though. Just not what I had hoped it should be and expected it to be for the price. Nice MB, but I will not buy one again when I can get the same performance from less expensive boards, and better performance from less expensive boards too! The MPower is ~$30 cheaper than a Sabertooth.


I'm not sure what gave you that impression that the Sabertooth would give you better performance, there will be (often minor) overclocking differences between the motherboards but any performance differences will be unnoticeable in almost all cases.

I'd just recommend someone to get whatever board is known to be solid for overclocking (e.g. P8Z68) and then tailor it a bit more depending on which features you want (e.g. Pro, Deluxe, Gen3 etc.)


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Well *ucode*, I expected it to outperform my Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3. I had hoped for better bench scores for cpu, mem, ssd and system benches and higher OCs.
> I did get better performance from the MSI MPower Z77 which improved in all the bench areas while also allowing for lower vcore per/CPU OC.
> But the Sabertooth Z77 was around the same as my P8Z68-V/Gen3, so it was a disappointment. For the price, it should have done something better....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not really saying it is a bad board though. Just not what I had hoped it should be and expected it to be for the price. Nice MB, but I will not buy one again when I can get the same performance from less expensive boards, and better performance from less expensive boards too! The MPower is ~$30 cheaper than a Sabertooth.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what gave you that impression that the Sabertooth would give you better performance, there will be (often minor) overclocking differences between the motherboards but any performance differences will be unnoticeable in almost all cases.
> 
> I'd just recommend someone to get whatever board is known to be solid for overclocking (e.g. P8Z68) and then tailor it a bit more depending on which features you want (e.g. Pro, Deluxe, Gen3 etc.)
Click to expand...

Reviews. Reviews said the Sabertooth was very good OCer. Reviews said the MPower was a very good OCer. The reviews about the MPower were correct. Sabertooth, not as much.

But much of what you say *Ellis* is true in that there is little diff between most decent MBs these days and you can chose for features and still have decent OC performance. And the P8Z68-V/Gen3 has good features and OCs just fine, as does the Sabertooth.

But some boards are still better than others, and the MPower was one of them. I just thought the Sabertooth would be too. My mistake. I'm still using it and it is not a bad MB, I just noted that it was a disappointment as someone asked and I shared how I felt about it. No harm done.

Anyone can chose whatever board they like as the desire. My opinion is my own. You are welcome to yours. And I agree with you that anyone "get whatever board is known to be solid for overclocking (e.g. P8Z68) and then tailor it a bit more depending on which features you want (e.g. Pro, Deluxe, Gen3 etc.)". But I will still be looking for an above average MB next time I build a new system and it will not be a Sabertooth!


----------



## ucode

While "it's your opinion" it is good to get some feedback from someone who has used more than one make of board.









IMHO I can not help feel that with the earlier ASUS P67 boards, at least mainstream, were somewhat let down by their firmware support. Good firmware support may have made them "great boards" instead of "just another board" or worse. The question remains whether the other manufacturers were just as lacking or not, something which can only be answered by having tried several boards so is hard to quantify without deep pockets.

Although I have predominately been an "ASUS guy" I feel the time may have come to move on and try something else, so views such as yours are valuable to me. Thanks.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Reviews. Reviews said the Sabertooth was very good OCer. Reviews said the MPower was a very good OCer. The reviews about the MPower were correct. Sabertooth, not as much.
> But much of what you say *Ellis* is true in that there is little diff between most decent MBs these days and you can chose for features and still have decent OC performance. And the P8Z68-V/Gen3 has good features and OCs just fine, as does the Sabertooth.
> But some boards are still better than others, and the MPower was one of them. I just thought the Sabertooth would be too. My mistake. I'm still using it and it is not a bad MB, I just noted that it was a disappointment as someone asked and I shared how I felt about it. No harm done.
> Anyone can chose whatever board they like as the desire. My opinion is my own. You are welcome to yours. And I agree with you that anyone "get whatever board is known to be solid for overclocking (e.g. P8Z68) and then tailor it a bit more depending on which features you want (e.g. Pro, Deluxe, Gen3 etc.)". But I will still be looking for an above average MB next time I build a new system and it will not be a Sabertooth!


Sure, like I said the overclocking can and will differ between boards, sometimes in a big way and sometimes on a much smaller scale, but you said you expected better benchmark results from just switching motherboards, and that's not something you'll see too often (well, any difference that counts).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucode*
> 
> While "it's your opinion" it is good to get some feedback from someone who has used more than one make of board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMHO I can not help feel that with the earlier ASUS P67 boards, at least mainstream, were somewhat let down by their firmware support. Good firmware support may have made them "great boards" instead of "just another board" or worse. The question remains whether the other manufacturers were just as lacking or not, something which can only be answered by having tried several boards so is hard to quantify without deep pockets.
> Although I have predominately been an "ASUS guy" I feel the time may have come to move on and try something else, so views such as yours are valuable to me. Thanks.


Me? I've used one other board, I know that's not enough for me to say "and the best Z68 motherboard is..." but I have used another comparable Z68 board to this one.


----------



## pjBSOD

Hi guys,

My DataVac gets here tomorrow, so I'm going to be doing a full system clean and a brand new OS install with new drivers (might as well, it's been ~6 months). My question is, for the P8P67 PRO Rev 3.1, under Network drivers, it says this for the latest (aka Version 17.3.0.0):
Quote:


> Intel LAN Driver V17.3.0.0 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.(WHQL)
> Intel LAN Driver V17.3.0.0 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.(WHQL)
> 
> *Note: Please install NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection first before you update this driver.
> The URL of the Utility: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=22026


That may seem self-explanatory, but I'm confused. Should I install the PREVIOUS driver (aka Version 16.5.0.0) and then follow the above instructions, or should I just go straight to downloading the NVM update utility and then installing the newest version? I don't want to mess up and have to reinstall again, lol.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjBSOD*
> 
> Hi guys,
> My DataVac gets here tomorrow, so I'm going to be doing a full system clean and a brand new OS install with new drivers (might as well, it's been ~6 months). My question is, for the P8P67 PRO Rev 3.1, under Network drivers, it says this for the latest (aka Version 17.3.0.0):
> That may seem self-explanatory, but I'm confused. Should I install the PREVIOUS driver (aka Version 16.5.0.0) and then follow the above instructions, or should I just go straight to downloading the NVM update utility and then installing the newest version? I don't want to mess up and have to reinstall again, lol.


From the Intel site:
Quote:


> This utility resolves an issue where during system resume, the Intel® 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection erroneously reports the device id as an Intel® 82579LM Gigabit Ethernet Controller Network Connection, resulting in a Windows* Code 10 error and loss of network connection.
> 
> Not all systems with the Intel 82579V Network connection will see this problem. Systems using Microsoft Windows* 8 are more susceptible to the issue.
> 
> If you experience this error, Intel recommends that you update the non-volatile memory for your network connection by downloading and running the NVM Update Utility.


I would just download the newer version (17.4) of the driver from Intel here. It sounds like you're unlikely to encounter any issues with it, but if you do then you'll need to look into the NVM Update Utility.

ASUS don't update their download pages every time a new driver version is released, so I usually check the Intel site for my Intel components.


----------



## MooMoo

Yea, I suggest too that you go to Intel download section and download the newest drivers. That Intel® Driver Update Utility is handy


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjBSOD*
> 
> Hi guys,
> My DataVac gets here tomorrow, so I'm going to be doing a full system clean and a brand new OS install with new drivers (might as well, it's been ~6 months). My question is, for the P8P67 PRO Rev 3.1, under Network drivers, it says this for the latest (aka Version 17.3.0.0):
> That may seem self-explanatory, but I'm confused. Should I install the PREVIOUS driver (aka Version 16.5.0.0) and then follow the above instructions, or should I just go straight to downloading the NVM update utility and then installing the newest version? I don't want to mess up and have to reinstall again, lol.


I have the same board you do, I just installed the newest drivers on the website since I recently did a new OS install as well. Didn't need to do anything special, just went to asus support, found my board and installed the drivers.

Edit: I did this on Windows 8.


----------



## sinnedone

Hello All

I have a p8p67 pro rev 3.1 and need some help.

First of all im running bios 3207 and im thinking of trying the latest posted in November 3602.

Wanted to know peoples experiance with this board and bios combo, any issue or improvements?

There is only one thing that is making me think about trying it and the issue im having is this:

I use the DVI out to my computer monitor using an xfx 7870 and the hdmi out to my tv. When the hdmi cable is plugged in the asus boot logo doesnt show and monitor stays black. If I unplug the hdmi cable to my tv then the asus boot logo will show.

Anyone else have this issue?

Ive spoken with asus tech support and said they have seen cases like this but never really figured out why.,


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hello All
> I have a p8p67 pro rev 3.1 and need some help.
> First of all im running bios 3207 and im thinking of trying the latest posted in November 3602.
> Wanted to know peoples experiance with this board and bios combo, any issue or improvements?
> There is only one thing that is making me think about trying it and the issue im having is this:
> I use the DVI out to my computer monitor using an xfx 7870 and the hdmi out to my tv. When the hdmi cable is plugged in the asus boot logo doesnt show and monitor stays black. If I unplug the hdmi cable to my tv then the asus boot logo will show.
> Anyone else have this issue?
> Ive spoken with asus tech support and said they have seen cases like this but never really figured out why.,


Im pretty sure thats because the HDMI may be too slow when responding to the PC input to show an image. Just use another DVI if you can, IMO.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Well it took a while but ASUS is finally letting me send back my POS p8z68-v PRO/GEN3 mobo. Such a shame but if you have not bought this board already be warned. The RAM, CPU and VGA "Test" lite's do more harm than good. I hope asus sends me back a working board.

Wish me luck! Plan's of finally water cooling this system should be getting underway shortly.


----------



## GeneO

Go luck!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Well it took a while but ASUS is finally letting me send back my POS p8z68-v PRO/GEN3 mobo. Such a shame but if you have not bought this board already be warned. The RAM, CPU and VGA "Test" lite's do more harm than good. I hope asus sends me back a working board.
> Wish me luck! Plan's of finally water cooling this system should be getting underway shortly.


I have the board and got no problems with this, I have the non-PRO though. What do you mean by this "The RAM, CPU and VGA "Test" lite's do more harm than good." ???


----------



## malmental

that is a puzzling statement...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I have the board and got no problems with this, I have the non-PRO though. What do you mean by this "The RAM, CPU and VGA "Test" lite's do more harm than good." ???


ASUS refer's to them as Q-LED's for the CPU,RAM and VGA. I'm not sure I have a perfect understanding of it but the just is: When you power on the board it test's hardware before POST. Each Q-LED represents hardware checked. All hardware MUST pass this test before the board is allowed to POST.

Its a nifty idea but its a common problem(search google, read newegg review's) for the Q-LED's to fail working hardware(VGA in my case). This results in no POST at all in some case's. I lucked out. My VGA Q-LED only act's up as follow's: Turn on PC power(cold boot) VGA Q-LED lights up red for 3-5 min), Q-LED goes out, Mobo Speaker let out a single chirp and then post, few seconds later windows and a perfectly working PC..
Some people's system's flag their CPU's or RAM and won't move on to POST, ever.

My GPU work's perfect in other PC's. Other known working GPU's(including my 2500k's iGPU) trigger the Q-LED fail.. Updated BIOS yadda yadda. I'll admit that they don't "cause more harm than good" (over statement, sorry) but it seem's to be a weak link in this boards design after looking into it.

I'm not exactly sure what boards ASUS put this system on, or if its just this boards specific implementation of said system but it's a pain in the butt... I have a 5min + boot time on my sig rig









Other than that the board work's perfect.


----------



## KingT

My Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen 3 motherboard sometimes fails to boot from 1st try, it flags CPU LED.

It spins fans and etc but doesn't POST, does that for about 10 seconds then restarts and POST's without any issues.

I don't mind it a lot, it does that mainly on a cold boot maybe 1 in 10 powering up, so not a big deal (approx 10 sec delay).

*The biggest issue that I have is being unable to boot into OS with integrated HD3000 graphics* if I don't have a graphic card installed in PCIE x 16 slot.

If I don't have a graphic card installed then my board after POST cannot boot from HDD as somehow it fails to detect them or something and at the moment when it should start to boot to OS *IT JUST RESTARTS*, and repeat that in cycles.

If I install a graphic card then my system is able to boot with iGPU as primary device no problem at all..

It's just frustrating that I have to install some graphic card to be able to use my integrated graphics, that just does not make any sense









CHEERS..


----------



## pjBSOD

KingT, if you've already reset the CMOS updated the BIOS, call up Asus and ask for an RMA.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjBSOD*
> 
> KingT, if you've already reset the CMOS updated the BIOS, call up Asus and ask for an RMA.


I have tried everything, from updating BIOS to resetting CMOS but still cannot get my system to boot to OS with HD3000 graphics (if I don't have a graphic card installed in my system)..

It boots str8 up on HD3000 iGPU as primary device if I have some graphic card installed in PCIE 16x slot.









Maybe it has something to do with me using my 2 x 500GB HDDs in RAID 0 setup and somehow it has some sort of conflict with my system boot ability on HD3000.

Luckily I don't use onboard graphics so that doesn't affect me much but still it's darn stupid issue.

I have this board for 11 months now so I'm kinda turn off by the RMA option.

CHEERS..


----------



## davidm71

Hi,

Was wondering if anyone can please comment on if you need to do anything special to run 2133mhz ram with my P8Z68 deluxe? On my other board I have to raise vtt volts. Do I have to do the same here or are there any recommendations in bios settings?

Thanks.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Hi,
> Was wondering if anyone can please comment on if you need to do anything special to run 2133mhz ram with my P8Z68 deluxe? On my other board I have to raise vtt volts. Do I have to do the same here or are there any recommendations in bios settings?
> Thanks.


First you need a CPU that's capable of running 2133MHz RAM, not every 2500K or 2600K could do that without raising VCCIO voltage.

I run my Kingston HyperX Blu 1600MHz CL9 @ 2133MHz with standard 1.65V and 10-11-10-30 timings on my P8Z68-V Pro/Gen 3.

I didn't have to raise VCCIO voltage (memory controler voltage), so I left it on default 1.087V.

If you have Ivy Bridge CPU then it's almost guaranteed that you'll be able to run 21333MHz or higher because 3570K and 3770K do have better memory controller than 2500K/2600K..

You just set your RAM speed to 2133MHz, set your RAM voltage and timings to recommended specs of your memory kit.

CHEERS..


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> First you need a CPU that's capable of running 2133MHz RAM, not every 2500K or 2600K could do that without raising VCCIO voltage.
> I run my Kingston HyperX Blu 1600MHz CL9 @ 2133MHz with standard 1.65V and 10-11-10-30 timings on my P8Z68-V Pro/Gen 3.
> I didn't have to raise VCCIO voltage (memory controler voltage), so I left it on default 1.087V.
> If you have Ivy Bridge CPU then it's almost guaranteed that you'll be able to run 21333MHz or higher because 3570K and 3770K do have better memory controller than 2500K/2600K..
> You just set your RAM speed to 2133MHz, set your RAM voltage and timings to recommended specs of your memory kit.
> CHEERS..


Thanks for the comment. I'm mostly 95+ percent stable with my 2600K. I just want to be absolutely sure that I am as just once some games launcher crashed before I could play the game so I wonder. This only happened once. Seems stable. But I should be able to raise that one notch just to be safe?

Thanks.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> First you need a CPU that's capable of running 2133MHz RAM, not every 2500K or 2600K could do that without raising VCCIO voltage.
> I run my Kingston HyperX Blu 1600MHz CL9 @ 2133MHz with standard 1.65V and 10-11-10-30 timings on my P8Z68-V Pro/Gen 3.
> I didn't have to raise VCCIO voltage (memory controler voltage), so I left it on default 1.087V.
> If you have Ivy Bridge CPU then it's almost guaranteed that you'll be able to run 21333MHz or higher because 3570K and 3770K do have better memory controller than 2500K/2600K..
> You just set your RAM speed to 2133MHz, set your RAM voltage and timings to recommended specs of your memory kit.
> CHEERS..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the comment. I'm mostly 95+ percent stable with my 2600K. I just want to be absolutely sure that I am as just once some games launcher crashed before I could play the game so I wonder. This only happened once. Seems stable. But I should be able to raise that one notch just to be safe?
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

that's the CPU needing a tad bit more voltage, or could be the cause.


----------



## KingT

You shold test your RAM stability and the best way for that (even better than memtest program) is running *Prime 95 Custom test* with 4096K to 4096K size problem.

Run Prime 95 and first choose Blend then Custom in settings meni.

Then set the numbers as shown on the picture and click OK.

Run test for 2 hours if it shows no errors then your RAM is stable 100%.










CHEERS..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> You shold test your RAM stability and the best way for that (even better than memtest program) is running *Prime 95 Custom test* with 4096K to 4096K size problem.
> Run Prime 95 and first choose Blend then Custom in settings meni.
> Then set the numbers as shown on the picture and click OK.
> Run test for 2 hours if it shows no errors then your RAM is stable 100%.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


Is the 4096K FFT size a proven one to test mem stability?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> You shold test your RAM stability and the best way for that (even better than memtest program) is running *Prime 95 Custom test* with 4096K to 4096K size problem.
> Run Prime 95 and first choose Blend then Custom in settings meni.
> Then set the numbers as shown on the picture and click OK.
> Run test for 2 hours if it shows no errors then your RAM is stable 100%.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


I honestly almost clicked the "OK" in the image. I feel so dumb. lol...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Thanks for the comment. I'm mostly 95+ percent stable with my 2600K. I just want to be absolutely sure that I am as just once some games launcher crashed before I could play the game so I wonder. This only happened once. Seems stable. But I should be able to raise that one notch just to be safe?
> Thanks.


It's not good to just go by how stable it seems. You have to run the recommended stability tests. If a game launcher crashes, then it's probably very unstable.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's not good to just go by how stable it _seems_. You have to run the recommended stability tests. If a game launcher crashes, then it's probably very unstable.


Running the test now. I forgot that running ram at 2133mhz is an overclock and I always run stability tests when I overclock the cpu. In this case I just was under the assumption that SB chips can handle it for the most part. Might also fire up linx. That has always worked well for me. Thanks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Running the test now. I forgot that running ram at 2133mhz is an overclock and I always run stability tests when I overclock the cpu. In this case I just was under the assumption that SB chips can handle it for the most part. Might also fire up linx. That has always worked well for me. Thanks.


You're welcome. Although, I admit that I was under the impression that you hadn't tested your CPU overclock yet.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You're welcome. Although, I admit that I was under the impression that you hadn't tested your CPU overclock yet.


Thats because I'm running my cpu at stock right now. Don't feel it needs an overclock. This 2133mhz ram is relatively new. Put in 4x4gb (16gb total) corsair Platinums. Use to run 1600mhz ram before at stock voltages or auto settings.Really like the look of this ram. Totally dresses up your rig. Anyhow 15 min into priming and no errors so far. My stock Vccio volt is 1.050 according to Aida64. Tempted to raise it to 1.100 just to be safe.

Thanks.

Edit: Ignore the Classy mentioned in my Sig.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Thats because I'm running my cpu at stock right now. Don't feel it needs an overclock. This 2133mhz ram is relatively new. Put in 4x4gb (16gb total) corsair Platinums. Use to run 1600mhz ram before at stock voltages or auto settings.Really like the look of this ram. Totally dresses up your rig. Anyhow 15 min into priming and no errors so far. My stock Vccio volt is 1.050 according to Aida64. Tempted to raise it to 1.100 just to be safe.
> Thanks.
> Edit: Ignore the Classy mentioned in my Sig.


I have to agree with not needing to overclock the CPU. I just did it because I wanted to.  I didn't feel or notice any difference after overclocking.

I found the full-on Custom Blend test (that is, not adjusting the FFT size fields) worked very well for me to find that I needed to increase my VCCIO for DDR3 1866 - which is my stock speed. My VCCIO needed to be at 1.15625V. lol This is evidence that the memory controller in my 2500K isn't one of the better ones.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I have to agree with not needing to overclock the CPU. I just did it because I wanted to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't feel or notice any difference after overclocking.
> 
> I found the full-on Custom Blend test (that is, not adjusting the FFT size fields) worked very well for me to find that I needed to increase my VCCIO for DDR3 1866 - which is my stock speed. My VCCIO needed to be at 1.15625V. lol This is evidence that the memory controller in my 2500K isn't one of the better ones.


I've always like LinX to stress test. Prime 95 takes so long! About overclocking I really can't as my dual boot hackintosh is set to run at stock cpu clocks. I suppose I could but it would take some work to get the hackintosh working right at an overclock...

Whos Theodent BTW?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> I've always like LinX to stress test. Prime 95 takes so long! About overclocking I really can't as my dual boot hackintosh is set to run at stock cpu clocks. I suppose I could but it would take some work to get the hackintosh working right at an overclock...
> Whos Theodent BTW?


Theodent is a new toothpaste that will one day replace fluoride toothpastes. It began selling on January 1st of 2012. Fluoride is effective, but it's not safe. That's why you can't swallow "more than is used for brushing". If you do, then you have a medical emergency. Theodent is safe to swallow, even in large amounts. The active ingredient is derived from chocolate and it is more effective than fluoride, but the toothpaste does not taste like chocolate. It's just the standard minty flavor. Of course, they are in the process of working on a chocolate-flavored version.

Anyway, LinX is useless if it's not LinX with AVX. Even then, it's still not superior to Prime95 because they are just different. It's like trying to compare apples to oranges. This is especially true if you have Prime95 v27.7 build 2 because that version takes full advantage of the AVX instruction set.


----------



## davidm71

Passed priming two hours almost and no errors! Still going to bump up the vccio a notch..

Thanks.


----------



## TwoCables

You may not need to, but ok.


----------



## bodean

I've noticed sometimes when I first powerup my windows 8 machine, it turns on, but I get no display on my monitor (has happened with 2 monitors). I am using the latest beta ATI drivers for my card. The weird thing is, pressing delete i dont even get the bios to appear, just a black/dark monitor screen. I am wondering if repairing the bootloader could fix this? Anyone know how to repair the bootloader? I won't loose any of my data, will I?

After turning off, turning on the computer a few times, I finally get display and can get into windows 8, but it's annoying.

MB is an ASUS P8z68V/gen3 latest bios.

Also, I don't run raid, but run my SSD in AHCI mode.
When I go to my system tray, it shows intel RST service is not running. Is this normal for AHCI setup?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> I've noticed sometimes when I first powerup my windows 8 machine, it turns on, but I get no display on my monitor (has happened with 2 monitors). I am using the latest beta ATI drivers for my card. The weird thing is, pressing delete i dont even get the bios to appear, just a black/dark monitor screen. I am wondering if repairing the bootloader could fix this? Anyone know how to repair the bootloader? I won't loose any of my data, will I?
> After turning off, turning on the computer a few times, I finally get display and can get into windows 8, but it's annoying.
> MB is an ASUS P8z68V/gen3 latest bios.
> Also, I don't run raid, but run my SSD in AHCI mode.
> When I go to my system tray, it shows intel RST service is not running. Is this normal for AHCI setup?


Remove your side panel and try to boot. watch inside the case to see if a RED LED light's up. There is one by the CPU, RAM and VGA/PCI lanes.


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Remove your side panel and try to boot. watch inside the case to see if a RED LED light's up. There is one by the CPU, RAM and VGA/PCI lanes.


Yes the red led lights lite up


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Yes the red led lights lite up


Sorry bad post was bad. Each led should Blink once, then the mobo will POST(mobo speaker beaps). Next time it hang's check to see if one of those LED's are lit up solid.


----------



## bodean

Your saying if they stay red, its a bad post? Running the latest bios for my board.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Your saying if they stay red, its a bad post? Running the latest bios for my board.


If one of those LED's stay's lit solid red its the board detecting hardware failure.

I will let you know ahead of time not to panic if one of them stays lit. these boards have a quirk of detecting faulty hardware when its not faulty. My board set's of the VGA LED for a few min, Then allow's the board to post.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> I've noticed sometimes when I first powerup my windows 8 machine, it turns on, but I get no display on my monitor (has happened with 2 monitors). I am using the latest beta ATI drivers for my card. The weird thing is, pressing delete i dont even get the bios to appear, just a black/dark monitor screen. I am wondering if repairing the bootloader could fix this? Anyone know how to repair the bootloader? I won't loose any of my data, will I?
> 
> After turning off, turning on the computer a few times, I finally get display and can get into windows 8, but it's annoying.
> 
> MB is an ASUS P8z68V/gen3 latest bios.
> 
> Also, I don't run raid, but run my SSD in AHCI mode.
> When I go to my system tray, it shows intel RST service is not running. Is this normal for AHCI setup?


Somethings that might help:

Under "Boot" Menu

Disable Full screen logo

change Opt ROM Message to Keep Current

Boot Option #1 should be set to your actual boot drive.

Disable Boot opt #2

I set Post report delay to 3 sec but you can increase past the default of 6 sec if you are still not seeing the POST boot screen.

When this screen appears is when you tap the delete key. It is easy to miss the timing of the tap which would move on to booting windows and not go into the bios so be careful here to hit it at the right moment.

Also change the setup mode to Advanced if you have not done so already.

Under the "*Advanced*" Menu

go to "*On Board Devices*"

Disable the Marvel & JMB controllers (assuming they are not in use) (recommended)

disable anything else you do not use.

now go to the *"APM"* under Advanced

Enable Power on by PCIE (assuming you are using a discrete GPU)

These settings are not default and are known to decrease boot time and eliminate issues such as yours. No boot screen can also be a monitor issue as well and not related to motherboard, gpu or there drivers/bios. Extending the Post Report delay may help you see that screen but will slow the boot. Even if you don't see it, if you hit the delete key at the right moment you will get into bios. Some use a mini mother board speaker which will announce with one long beep when the board has entered in the POST sequence, signaling it's time to start tapping the delete key to enter bios. They also shorten that delay time for quicker boot times as they is no need really to see that screen with this method.

In any case I hope this helps!


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Somethings that might help:
> Under "Boot" Menu
> Disable Full screen logo
> change Opt ROM Message to Keep Current
> Boot Option #1 should be set to your actual boot drive.
> Disable Boot opt #2
> I set Post report delay to 3 sec but you can increase past the default of 6 sec if you are still not seeing the POST boot screen.
> When this screen appears is when you tap the delete key. It is easy to miss the timing of the tap which would move on to booting windows and not go into the bios so be careful here to hit it at the right moment.
> Also change the setup mode to Advanced if you have not done so already.
> Under the "*Advanced*" Menu
> go to "*On Board Devices*"
> Disable the Marvel & JMB controllers (assuming they are not in use) (recommended)
> disable anything else you do not use.
> now go to the *"APM"* under Advanced
> Enable Power on by PCIE (assuming you are using a discrete GPU)
> 
> These settings are not default and are known to decrease boot time and eliminate issues such as yours. No boot screen can also be a monitor issue as well and not related to motherboard, gpu or there drivers/bios. Extending the Post Report delay may help you see that screen but will slow the boot. Even if you don't see it, if you hit the delete key at the right moment you will get into bios. Some use a mini mother board speaker which will announce with one long beep when the board has entered in the POST sequence, signaling it's time to start tapping the delete key to enter bios. They also shorten that delay time for quicker boot times as they is no need really to see that screen with this method.
> In any case I hope this helps!


Thanks Ill give those a try! Any info on the Intel RST part of the question?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Thanks Ill give those a try! Any info on the Intel RST part of the question?


RST doesn't show as running straight away on startup. Normal.


----------



## ucode

Any ideas as to what BIOS option "SATA Device Type -> HDD /SSD" does and why only on 6Gb/s Intel ports?


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Thanks Ill give those a try! Any info on the Intel RST part of the question?


If that bothers you, you can go into services.msc and change IRST Startup type from Automatic (Delayed Start) to just plain Automatic. Not sure why it's set to a delayed start by default. Maybe it's that way to let other system services that are more important to load first?


----------



## malmental

good info


----------



## TwoCables

I have that service disabled because it's just a notification manager.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> If that bothers you, you can go into services.msc and change IRST Startup type from Automatic (Delayed Start) to just plain Automatic. Not sure why it's set to a delayed start by default. Maybe it's that way to let other system services that are more important to load first?


I'm not at home to check or provide details on this, but I am under the impression that you don't even need to be running the program that shows IRST in the Windows tray for IRST to be active. I disabled mine to save a few resources and I am sure that IRST is still running.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I have that service disabled because it's just a notification manager.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I'm not at home to check or provide details on this, but I am under the impression that you don't even need to be running the program that shows IRST in the Windows tray for IRST to be active. I disabled mine to save a few resources and I am sure that IRST is still running.


Probably both right however I like the option to email me with drive warrnings/errors. You can never be alerted too soon if your drive is on the fritz.


----------



## TwoCables

There are two aspects to IRST: the software and the driver. The software uses the driver, and I have the software disabled. 

If you're wondering how I know, I did two "before and after" benchmarks: I did the first one to see if there was any difference between msahci and iaStor, and the 2nd was to see if there was any difference after disabling the software and all related processes entirely. When I disabled the software so that I no longer have any IRST-related processes running, the better benchmark after iaStor remained the same.

There was another way for me to tell: when I switched from msahci to iaStor, my startup time was noticeably faster. My first clue was the Windows 7 loading animation was no longer able to finish.  After getting rid of all of the IRST-related processes, the Windows 7 loading animation was still unable to finish. So that tells me that the driver is still working its magic.


----------



## am dew1

Speaking of IRST, I decided to update mine to the latest version on Intel's website, but I ended up rolling it back because of errors I got in Windows Event viewer. Not sure why, the install seemed to go just fine.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Speaking of IRST, I decided to update mine to the latest version on Intel's website, but I ended up rolling it back because of errors I got in Windows Event viewer. Not sure why, the install seemed to go just fine.


Interesting. I'm still using 10.0.0.8 because all of the newer versions so far give me a longer startup time in Windows. With 10.0.0.8, the Windows 7 loading animation doesn't finish. With any newer version of IRST, it finishes and then spends a few extra seconds just sitting there.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Speaking of IRST, I decided to update mine to the latest version on Intel's website, but I ended up rolling it back because of errors I got in Windows Event viewer. Not sure why, the install seemed to go just fine.


I am not alone. Found this: http://communities.intel.com/thread/31847?start=0&tstart=0


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Interesting. I'm still using 10.0.0.8 because all of the newer versions so far give me a longer startup time in Windows. With 10.0.0.8, the Windows 7 loading animation doesn't finish. With any newer version of IRST, it finishes and then spends a few extra seconds just sitting there.


You should disable the loading "orbs" in W7. Just go to msconfig and check the box below...

shaves a few seconds off boot time


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> You should disable the loading "orbs" in W7. Just go to msconfig and check the box below...
> 
> shaves a few seconds off boot time


I know about that, but it makes no difference for my loading time. I've timed it before and after and it's exactly the same, right down to the second.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There are two aspects to IRST: the software and the driver. The software uses the driver, and I have the software disabled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're wondering how I know, I did two "before and after" benchmarks: I did the first one to see if there was any difference between msahci and iaStor, and the 2nd was to see if there was any difference after disabling the software and all related processes entirely. When I disabled the software so that I no longer have any IRST-related processes running, the better benchmark after iaStor remained the same.
> 
> There was another way for me to tell: when I switched from msahci to iaStor, my startup time was noticeably faster. My first clue was the Windows 7 loading animation was no longer able to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting rid of all of the IRST-related processes, the Windows 7 loading animation was still unable to finish. So that tells me that the driver is still working its magic.


Please correct me if I am wrong, but what I think you are saying here is that as far as performance goes, none of the IRST-related processes are needed. Not just the ones that put IRST in the Windows tray but the others as well?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Please correct me if I am wrong, but what I think you are saying here is that as far as performance goes, none of the IRST-related processes are needed. Not just the ones that put IRST in the Windows tray but the others as well?


Yep! You understood me correctly! I admit that I wasn't clear enough, but I'm a little sleepy at the moment. However, I just ate, so I have a little bit of extra energy to make this post. 

Here are three different keys I check in the Registry after installing anything (even video games - that way I don't break my habit), so if you would like to get rid of all of the IRST-related processes, then check these too:


HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run

I don't remember which key(s) contains the IRST-related stuff, but check all 3 and delete all IRST-related entries if you wish.

Of course, disable "Intel Rapid Storage Technology" in Services.msc.

When you reboot, you'll no longer have any extra processes running as it relates to the software, but the driver will still be working its magic.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yep! You understood me correctly! I admit that I wasn't clear enough, but I'm a little sleepy at the moment. However, I just ate, so I have a little bit of extra energy to make this post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are three different keys I check in the Registry after installing anything (even video games - that way I don't break my habit), so if you would like to get rid of all of the IRST-related processes, then check these too:
> 
> [*] HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
> [*] HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
> [*] HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
> 
> I don't remember which key(s) contains the IRST-related stuff, but check all 3 and delete all IRST-related entries if you wish.
> 
> Of course, disable "Intel Rapid Storage Technology" in Services.msc.
> 
> When you reboot, you'll no longer have any extra processes running as it relates to the software, but the driver will still be working its magic.


Thanks!!...this will be very helpful as I also like to make sure that I know exactly what a newly installed program may be running upon start up. Not that I did not know about these areas, rather it's nice to have them clearly documented.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Thanks!!...this will be very helpful as I also like to make sure that I know exactly what a newly installed program may be running upon start up. Not that I did not know about these areas, rather it's nice to have them clearly documented.


You're welcome! I recommend adding them to the Favorites menu in the Registry Editor too.  That's how I pulled them up just now. hehe


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You're welcome! I recommend adding them to the Favorites menu in the Registry Editor too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how I pulled them up just now. hehe


I have to admit, as many years as I have been using Regedit, I have never bothered to use the Favorites function but now I will start...thanks!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I have to admit, as many years as I have been using Regedit, I have never bothered to use the Favorites function but now I will start...thanks!


You're welcome. It's better late than never.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is the 4096K FFT size a proven one to test mem stability?


Bump!


----------



## GeneO

I don't know if anybody has proven anything along those lines. How would you? Make sure most of your memory is covered by a large memory setting and that you have a wide range of FFT and you loop over them all sufficiently.


----------



## ucode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm still using 10.0.0.8 because all of the newer versions so far give me a longer startup time in Windows. With 10.0.0.8, the Windows 7 loading animation doesn't finish. With any newer version of IRST, it finishes and then spends a few extra seconds just sitting there.


Roughly how long does the 1850 BIOS take to post? That is if you are still using it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> I don't know if anybody has proven anything along those lines. How would you? Make sure most of your memory is covered by a large memory setting and that you have a wide range of FFT and you loop over them all sufficiently.


But why 4096? Usually there is an observation on what makes a particular FFT size is most effective in stability testing of a particular parameter. This is the first I've heard of 4096 used for RAM stability testing. Usually it's 1344, 2688, and 1792 for CPU stability testing with 90% of available RAM. That alone can also test the stability of the RAM.


----------



## GeneO

Got me why somebody recommended that. I always do a large range of FFT sizes.


----------



## Ellis

TwoCables - you mention that you use an older version of IRST because the newer ones slow down boot. Does stopping the processes from loading at start fix the boot time, or do you have to use the older version of the driver too? I'm using 11.7 right now because I went ahead and installed the latest version after installing Windows most recently (mid-December).

My boot time is certainly not what it should be - I know that it's capable of moving from the 'Starting Windows' screen before the flag forms, but now it waits a few seconds after the flag forms.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Got me why somebody recommended that. I always do a large range of FFT sizes.


Here's that post:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/7990#post_19002178


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But why 4096? Usually there is an observation on what makes a particular FFT size is most effective in stability testing of a particular parameter. This is the first I've heard of 4096 used for RAM stability testing. Usually it's 1344, 2688, and 1792 for CPU stability testing with 90% of available RAM. That alone can also test the stability of the RAM.


Anyone still using memtest86 anymore? I thought that was the best way to test ram stability. In any case I bumped up the vccio volts to 1.08125v (suppose to be intels limit) just to be safe. Seems stable now.


----------



## arfaad

Hello guys, sorry for cutting any ongoing conversations. I need recommendations for a 1600Mhz 16GB Ram kit for my board. Looking to spend around 80 bucks.

This ram will be replacing the defective ram that is causing random resets during gaming. Thanks in advance


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arfaad*
> 
> Hello guys, sorry for cutting any ongoing conversations. I need recommendations for a 1600Mhz 16GB Ram kit for my board. Looking to spend around 80 bucks.
> 
> This ram will be replacing the defective ram that is causing random resets during gaming. Thanks in advance


Just curious, how do you know the current RAM is defective? Memtest? Are you wanting a 4 piece kit or 2?

Here is a 4 piece kit... and a Two

The 2 8GB sticks have $10 off promo code too, makes them $69 shipped!

I'm not partial to G.Skill, just happen to be on good sales. I'd also be okay with 10 other brands give or take. If you want to overclock RAM though, you can't go wrong with the popular Samsung low profile/low voltage kits. They are just ugly


----------



## arfaad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Just curious, how do you know the current RAM is defective? Memtest?


This is a good question.

Well it's a long story, but I was experiencing a random reset issue for the last two months of 2012. It was annoying and it happened under every possible scenario...idling in desktop, gaming, AND in the BIOS. I was so distraught, i thought my board or CPU was bad and i started researching boards.

I had tested each ram stick with memtest, then my exams started so i stopped troubleshooting. I gave my board a WD40 bath and left it down for a week.

After exams, i fixed the corrupted ME region of the BIOS and ran the machine with 1 stick. The board refused to boot with the other stick, but the weird thing is, that the stick i am currently running displayed an error within the first 5 minutes of the memtest i did earlier. Ansd the other stick that tested without error for 6 hours (then the system reset) was unbootable.

My longest uptime is 2 days 13 hrs since i started using one stick of ram. and i still get random resets but now i only get them during long gaming sessions. There is no overheating of anything else, to my knowledge. So I concluded that both sticks are bad. just that one of em is worse than the other.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arfaad*
> 
> This is a good question.
> 
> Well it's a long story, but I was experiencing a random reset issue for the last two months of 2012. It was annoying and it happened under every possible scenario...idling in desktop, gaming, AND in the BIOS. I was so distraught, i thought my board or CPU was bad and i started researching boards.
> 
> I had tested each ram stick with memtest, then my exams started so i stopped troubleshooting. I gave my board a WD40 bath and left it down for a week.
> 
> After exams, i fixed the corrupted ME region of the BIOS and ran the machine with 1 stick. The board refused to boot with the other stick, but the weird thing is, that the stick i am currently running displayed an error within the first 5 minutes of the memtest i did earlier. Ansd the other stick that tested without error for 6 hours (then the system reset) was unbootable.
> 
> My longest uptime is 2 days 13 hrs since i started using one stick of ram. and i still get random resets but now i only get them during long gaming sessions. There is no overheating of anything else, to my knowledge. So I concluded that both sticks are bad. just that one of em is worse than the other.


Very odd, but I still think you need to run several hours of memtest from a bootable disc/flash drive to verify. BTW, I had the corrupt BIOS ME thing as well. I ordered a new BIOS chip for $24 from Asus and it cleared it up. Word to the wise, don't try to flash while overclocked


----------



## malmental

where are you located, in the US.?


----------



## TwoCables

The Custom Blend test is the best stability test for Sandy and Ivy Bridge because it stresses the *entire* CPU, not just a part of it. It gets the cores and it gets the memory controller. The Large FFTs would focus on the memory controller the most, and the Small FFTs would focus on the cores the most. You can do the default Blend test, but then Prime95 would only be using 1600 MB of your memory; the Custom Blend test allows you to change that, and the recommended amount is about 90% of your memory.

The only time you want to focus on specific FFT sizes is when you know that specific FFT size keeps failing for you. So in other words: there are no shortcuts. Stop trying to take shortcuts, or stop trying to find them. They don't exist.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucode*
> 
> Roughly how long does the 1850 BIOS take to post? That is if you are still using it.


It takes mine exactly 15 seconds before Windows begins loading.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> TwoCables - you mention that you use an older version of IRST because the newer ones slow down boot. Does stopping the processes from loading at start fix the boot time, or do you have to use the older version of the driver too? I'm using 11.7 right now because I went ahead and installed the latest version after installing Windows most recently (mid-December).
> 
> My boot time is certainly not what it should be - I know that it's capable of moving from the 'Starting Windows' screen before the flag forms, but now it waits a few seconds after the flag forms.


The reason I got rid of those processes is they are unnecessary for me. They did not change my boot time at all (at least not that I can tell). I'm just very particular when it comes to what's necessary and what's not.

So, IRST version 10.0.0.1008 is the latest one that I can use. Anything newer results in a noticeably longer start time for Windows. With or without the unnecessary service and processes, my boot time is noticeably faster than it is with any newer version of IRST.


----------



## arfaad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Very odd, but I still think you need to run several hours of memtest from a bootable disc/flash drive to verify. BTW, I had the corrupt BIOS ME thing as well. I ordered a new BIOS chip for $24 from Asus and it cleared it up. Word to the wise, don't try to flash while overclocked


You didnt have to buy a new chip. There are ways that you can reflash just some regions of your BIOS. I was contemplating getting a new chip but then i stumbled on the FTK - Flash toolkit. Can be run in the windows environment. It was created by some russian guys.

It didnt explain the random reset issue, My ME region got corrupted and my onboard gfx stopped working after i flashed to the 3603 BIOS. reflashed to a previous version of the BIOS and then did the ME fix. Fixed it up like a charm.

My random reset issue HAS to be a memory issue. If it happens again i'll know for sure because I configured windows to do a complete crash dump upon system failure. Hopefully that works so i can debug it. But by then i may have already ordered new ram, in which case we'll know for sure if its time to call for a board/cpu funeral.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Anyone still using memtest86 anymore? I thought that was the best way to test ram stability. In any case I bumped up the vccio volts to 1.08125v (suppose to be intels limit) just to be safe. Seems stable now.


They say that Prime95 is also better in testing RAM stability compared to Memtest.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The Custom Blend test is the best stability test for Sandy and Ivy Bridge because it stresses the *entire* CPU, not just a part of it. It gets the cores and it gets the memory controller. The Large FFTs would focus on the memory controller the most, and the Small FFTs would focus on the cores the most. You can do the default Blend test, but then Prime95 would only be using 1600 MB of your memory; the Custom Blend test allows you to change that, and the recommended amount is about 90% of your memory.
> 
> The only time you want to focus on specific FFT sizes is when you know that specific FFT size keeps failing for you. So in other words: there are no shortcuts. Stop trying to take shortcuts, or stop trying to find them. They don't exist.
> 
> It takes mine exactly 15 seconds before Windows begins loading.
> 
> The reason I got rid of those processes is they are unnecessary for me. They did not change my boot time at all (at least not that I can tell). I'm just very particular when it comes to what's necessary and what's not.
> 
> So, IRST version 10.0.0.1008 is the latest one that I can use. Anything newer results in a noticeably longer start time for Windows. With or without the unnecessary service and processes, my boot time is noticeably faster than it is with any newer version of IRST.


So can Prime95 really be considered a RAM stability testing software too?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> They say that Prime95 is also better in testing RAM stability compared to Memtest.
> So can Prime95 really be considered a RAM stability testing software too?


I'm still not 100% sure. Although, when I was very new to OCN (in 2008) and trying to learn how to overclock on an E2180, I had people trying to get me to overclock my memory too. They said that I should use the Blend and Large FFTs tests to test my memory. That's all I remember. I never overclocked my memory because I just didn't have any interest in that part of overclocking, and I still don't - especially now with how fast my system is. I technically have absolutely no need to overclock anything, certainly not my memory.

Later on, HCi's MemTest was recommended to me if I ever wanted to overclock my memory, but I don't know much about it except that it runs in Windows and it is *not* just an error-checking program like Memtest86.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm still not 100% sure. Although, when I was very new to OCN (in 2008) and trying to learn how to overclock on an E2180, I had people trying to get me to overclock my memory too. They said that I should use the Blend and Large FFTs tests to test my memory. That's all I remember. I never overclocked my memory because I just didn't have any interest in that part of overclocking, and I still don't - especially now with how fast my system is. I technically have absolutely no need to overclock anything, certainly not my memory.
> 
> Later on, HCi's MemTest was recommended to me if I ever wanted to overclock my memory, but I don't know much about it except that it runs in Windows and it is *not* just an error-checking program like Memtest86.


Yeah I also used HCI's Memtest before because it was considered the best software for testing RAM stability in one website. And it detects errors pretty much faster than any other RAM stability software. I'm jut not 100% sure on this either.

I'm curious on the 4096K FFT that was said earlier though.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm curious on the 4096K FFT that was said earlier though.


I had looked at the post you quoted. I wouldn't get worked up over something posted on the Internet







IF the OP isn't responding it may be for a reason.


----------



## ucode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It takes mine exactly 15 seconds before Windows begins loading.


Thanks. Does that time include any USB devices/drives ?

For me 1850 took 23 seconds to get to the Windows loading stage but I recently tried 3602 and now that time is down to 10 seconds which although is not fantastic, is pretty good for an Asus I think lol. FWIW that is using RAID 11.6/11.2.


----------



## TwoCables

Kevin: I recommend literally reposting this post. Don't quote it and then say "bump", but instead, literally just post the contents one more time. It's possible that KingT missed it the first time.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucode*
> 
> Thanks. Does that time include any USB devices/drives ?
> 
> For me 1850 took 23 seconds to get to the Windows loading stage but I recently tried 3602 and now that time is down to 10 seconds which although is not fantastic, is pretty good for an Asus I think lol. FWIW that is using RAID 11.6/11.2.


I have no USB devices connected other than my keyboard and mouse. For that matter, I have no external devices in general connected other than my keyboard and mouse.

10 seconds is awesome. I saw a chart somewhere on the internet comparing the POST time of several motherboards, and 10 seconds was among the fastest!


----------



## alancsalt

I thought memtest was for checking your ram at stock to see if it is defective, while Prime 95 can test whether it is stably overclocked.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I thought memtest was for checking your ram at stock to see if it is defective, while Prime 95 can test whether it is stably overclocked.


Yeah, Memtest86 and Memtest86+ are just error-checking programs and not stability tests. HCi Design's MemTest is different and it runs in Windows and is supposedly the best stability test for memory. I don't know if that's true; this is just what I was told.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I thought memtest was for checking your ram at stock to see if it is defective, while Prime 95 can test whether it is stably overclocked.


Memtest86 that you run at boot is for determining if memory is defective, HCImemtest is run within windows to test memory stability at overclocked speed (best with multiple instances). Prime95 does similar, just takes longer (probably better, not really sure).


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I thought memtest was for checking your ram at stock to see if it is defective, while Prime 95 can test whether it is stably overclocked.


memtest is a measure of stability OC as well - not just stock. When you are running it with your system OC, it is going to exercise the memory and controller under those OC settings. So it is a good tool for OCing as well. Just another tool in your arsenal.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is the 4096K FFT size a proven one to test mem stability?


Yes 4096K custom test is the best for stress testing RAM and memory controller stability.
4096K is the biggest size problem available in P95 and so is the best suited for memory testing and memory controller loading.

I used to use MemTest Windows version for several hours and my system would pass error free, but then I tested it with P95 custom 4096K and it would get error in test.
After bumping RAM voltage or IMC voltage (VCCIO) then it would pass P95 Custom 4096K 2hrs test also.

That showed me that P95 Custom 4096K test is harder and better than MemTest and I have been using it for RAM testing for years now.

CHEERS.


----------



## arfaad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Yes 4096K custom test is the best for stress testing RAM and memory controller stability.
> 4096K is the biggest size problem available in P95 and so is the best suited for memory testing and memory controller loading.
> 
> I used to use MemTest Windows version for several hours and my system would pass error free, but then I tested it with P95 custom 4096K and it would get error in test.
> After bumping RAM voltage or IMC voltage (VCCIO) then it would pass P95 Custom 4096K 2hrs test also.
> 
> That showed me that P95 Custom 4096K test is harder and better than MemTest and I have been using it for RAM testing for years now.
> 
> CHEERS.


when doing a custom test, how much ram do you test? Do you use the total amount you installed?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arfaad*
> 
> when doing a custom test, how much ram do you test? Do you use the total amount you installed?


That's not possible because either it won't run, or the CPU load (and the core temps) will end up being very low because it's not working correctly. A balance has to be found, and this usually tops out at about 90% of your memory for most people. With effort, you can get it up to 95 or 96% of your memory. Although, you'd have to work hard, constantly testing back and forth to find that spot where if you increase it any higher, the CPU usage doesn't hit 100% and you notice lower core temps, and if you go any lower, it doesn't make the temps higher at all. It's the "ceiling".  It's also never precisely the same twice.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> I had looked at the post you quoted. I wouldn't get worked up over something posted on the Internet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IF the OP isn't responding it may be for a reason.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Yes 4096K custom test is the best for stress testing RAM and memory controller stability.
> 4096K is the biggest size problem available in P95 and so is the best suited for memory testing and memory controller loading.
> 
> I used to use MemTest Windows version for several hours and my system would pass error free, but then I tested it with P95 custom 4096K and it would get error in test.
> After bumping RAM voltage or IMC voltage (VCCIO) then it would pass P95 Custom 4096K 2hrs test also.
> 
> That showed me that P95 Custom 4096K test is harder and better than MemTest and I have been using it for RAM testing for years now.
> 
> CHEERS.


Interesting. Is 4096K Prime95 testing better than using HCI MemTest though?

And what settings do you use again for testing 4096K in Prime95?


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The Custom Blend test is the best stability test for Sandy and Ivy Bridge because it stresses the *entire* CPU, not just a part of it. It gets the cores and it gets the memory controller. The Large FFTs would focus on the memory controller the most, and the Small FFTs would focus on the cores the most. You can do the default Blend test, but then Prime95 would only be using 1600 MB of your memory; the Custom Blend test allows you to change that, and the recommended amount is about 90% of your memory.
> 
> The only time you want to focus on specific FFT sizes is when you know that specific FFT size keeps failing for you. So in other words: there are no shortcuts. Stop trying to take shortcuts, or stop trying to find them. They don't exist.
> 
> It takes mine exactly 15 seconds before Windows begins loading.
> 
> The reason I got rid of those processes is they are unnecessary for me. They did not change my boot time at all (at least not that I can tell). I'm just very particular when it comes to what's necessary and what's not.
> 
> So, IRST version 10.0.0.1008 is the latest one that I can use. Anything newer results in a noticeably longer start time for Windows. With or without the unnecessary service and processes, my boot time is noticeably faster than it is with any newer version of IRST.


Cheers TC, I may try going back to that version at some point then.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> Cheers TC, I may try going back to that version at some point then.


Cool. I hope it's the solution!


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Yes 4096K custom test is the best for stress testing RAM and memory controller stability.
> 4096K is the biggest size problem available in P95 and so is the best suited for memory testing and memory controller loading.
> CHEERS.


4096k isn't the largest FFT size in P95


----------



## TwoCables

Prime95 gave me the same impression that 4096K is the largest one because the Blend test ranges from 8K to 4096K while the other 2 don't go that high.

I don't know how to even begin to figure out what the largest FFT size is, unless it's done by making one up or something. I'm beginning to wonder how Prime95 really works now.


----------



## GeneO

Me too. I don't understand how it chooses the size when you give it a range of FFT sizes.
I think the maximum is pretty large.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Me too. I don't understand how it chooses the size when you give it a range of FFT sizes.
> I think the maximum is pretty large.


Yeah, I mean it's 4 GB, so passing that through the system a bunch of times must be pretty rough on the memory. I'm not willing to test it right now because I'm about to go to sleep, but, I wonder if it will do like 8192K - or really, anything that is entered and not just multiples of 8K. Up until now, I believed that it just kind of came with a set of FFTs. So now I'm wondering if that's not even the case. I mean, there are those of us saying, "Well yeah, the latest version of Prime95 has 82 FFT sizes in its Blend test". I don't know anymore. lol

Prime95 has just become a little bit mysterious to me.


----------



## Catscratch

I keep forgetting to mention a p8p67 evo quirk here.

My mobo does not accept 33x as multi anymore. The minimum is 34. I could enter 33 before but not after 3207 bios.

There's an i5 2550k (3.4 stock 3.8 turbo) model according to Intel ARK, maybe mobo is treating my 2500k as one


----------



## ucode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> I keep forgetting to mention a p8p67 evo quirk here.
> 
> My mobo does not accept 33x as multi anymore.


x33 is the HFM for 2500k. IOW the maximum non-turbo multi. If you want to set x33 then disable turbo (lowest turbo multi is x34 for 2500k) and set *CPU Ratio* under *Ai Tweaker\CPU management* from x16 to x33.


----------



## Catscratch

That doesn't make sense since I could do it prior to 3207 bios regardless of other options







Maybe it was a bug of some sort, even if I set 33, it was 34 in windows.


----------



## owcraftsman

Use HCI Design Memtest to test memory overclocked and or default timings before running Prime. Keep in mind with most of these boards anything over 1333 is overclocked. Because running a full round of available test in Prime 95 is a rather long process it's best to run it first to avoid any headaches over what may be the cause of a failure and it's not designed to test memory specifically even there documentation states "some" memory tested. I have no doubt both programs stress memory effectively enough to have confidence you have a stable system it just that HCI design memtest is much faster and eliminates a source of frustration when running Prime. Make sure to setup and run HCI properly by running two iterations as described on there web site for the free version. IMHO use the paid version I think I paid 5 or 6 bucks for it and it does all the setting up for you to get an effective test.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Use HCI Design Memtest to test memory overclocked and or default timings before running Prime. Keep in mind with most of these boards anything over 1333 is overclocked. Because running a full round of available test in Prime 95 is a rather long process it's best to run it first to avoid any headaches over what may be the cause of a failure and it's not designed to test memory specifically even there documentation states "some" memory tested. I have no doubt both programs stress memory effectively enough to have confidence you have a stable system it just that HCI design memtest is much faster and eliminates a source of frustration when running Prime. Make sure to setup and run HCI properly by running two iterations as described on there web site for the free version. IMHO use the paid version I think I paid 5 or 6 bucks for it and it does all the setting up for you to get an effective test.


I was running it with iterations=equals number of cores as suggested in one website. I thought this is the proper way?

So would it be better if I overclock my RAM and GPU first before the CPU?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Use HCI Design Memtest to test memory overclocked and or default timings before running Prime. Keep in mind with most of these boards anything over 1333 is overclocked. Because running a full round of available test in Prime 95 is a rather long process it's best to run it first to avoid any headaches over what may be the cause of a failure and it's not designed to test memory specifically even there documentation states "some" memory tested. I have no doubt both programs stress memory effectively enough to have confidence you have a stable system it just that HCI design memtest is much faster and eliminates a source of frustration when running Prime. Make sure to setup and run HCI properly by running two iterations as described on there web site for the free version. IMHO use the paid version I think I paid 5 or 6 bucks for it and it does all the setting up for you to get an effective test.
> 
> 
> 
> I was running it with iterations=equals number of cores as suggested in one website. I thought this is the proper way?
> 
> So would it be better if I overclock my RAM and GPU first before the CPU?
Click to expand...

All I can say is this is the way I do it which makes sense to me.


I take a new build and test all at optimized defaults to eliminate defective parts. I'll run HCI overnight and Prime 24 hrs (w/AVX) 24 hrs. then conclude with stressing my GPU where I'll use OCCT or any combination of software that stress the GPU at 100% and scans for artifacts at the same time 3-4 hours here should be sufficient.
If all goes well their I will move on to overclocking my memory to it's factory spec, for this example let's say it's a 1866 pair, I would engage the XMP mode one time only to record it's default timings top to bottom then use that to set manually in bios, furthermore I boost VCCIO and Vdimm slighty for insurance just in case I have a weak IMC proc., then test memory using HCI design Memtest. I usually run that until the slowest of the two iteration (usually the 2nd "all Remaining") 1 being (100%) of RAM and 2 (all remaining) reach a minimum of 200% coverage or overnight which is best. Paid version records all to a log, recording all errors short and long but continues to run, and is available even if the PC crashes to better diagnose the root cause. A quick look at their web site reveled they have a newer version, likely better, that I have not purchased yet but I purchased my version two years ago now. It may well be worth upgrading to but, I haven't yet, if I were you I would buy the current version and follow it's direction for best results.
Once I know my overclocked memory is stable at default CPU clocks I will move on to OC the proc unless I plan to OC my GPU at which point now is the time for that otherwise you are putting the cart before the horse. At this time I see no good reason to overclock my memory beyond it's rated specs as there is very little performance gain to be had beyond that w/o headaches.
Once I know my OCed GPU and Memory is rock solid at default CPU clocks it less likely they will be the root cause of an OC failure using Prime unless the failure is due to a voltage issue related to the proc itself. It's hard to rule any of that out of course but I'm saying it's less likely, as per usual you'll need to examine closely the failure to be sure. It's important to keep in mind by running your hardware overclocked it places a higher demand on the system bus in general including the IMC & chipset more specifically. Since these systems are designed to be overclocked typically their is a voltage or other bios parameter adjustment that can be made to effect a correction. Bottom line it's time to manual vcore overclock the proc using Prime. You'll need to understand what your low idle time x16 & high 100% laod vcore requirements are for a given clock. To determine this I typically use a custom blend w/max memory running 1344, 1792 & 2688 iterations say an hour each until I find the right voltages that pass.
Now that I'm completely stable running those three I move on to offset mode. To check my settings I'm looking for the voltages to register in windows that I noted before as a requirement for low x16 and high 100% load vcore. As you may know dropping below the stock low idle vcore can cause idle time BSODs which is why I've taken this opportunity to point it out again. Depending on your proc specifically this will effect certain parameters as set in the bios play around with your setting until you see what you are looking for. Once I see the right voltages or slightly higher I will begin by testing the same three different iteration with Prime over again until I pass them.
Now that I'm confident with voltages and temps it's time for a 24 hour max mem custom blend using all default iterations. Still there's no assurance you will pass but in most cases I'm very close at this point and only minor changes are in order. One thing for sure I'm not pulling my hair out trying to figure out what the problem is.

Once again nothing here is etched in stone, it's simply my method and it works for me. I hope this helps!

edit: corrected some spelling and grammar


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> All I can say is this is the way I do it which makes sense to me.
> 
> I take a new build and test all at optimized defaults to eliminate defective parts. I'll run HCI overnight and Prime 24 hrs (w/AVX) 24 hrs. then conclude with stressing my GPU where I'll use OCCT or any combination of software that stress the GPU at 100% and scans for artifacts at the same time 3-4 hours here should be sufficient.
> If all goes well their I will move on to overclocking my memory to it's factory spec, for this example let's say it's a 1866 pair, I would engage the XMP mode one time only to record it's default timings top to bottom then use that to set manually in bios, furthermore I boost VCCIO and Vdimm slighty for insurance just in case I have a weak IMC proc., then test memory using HCI design Memtest. I usually run that until the slowest of the two iteration (usually the 2nd "all Remaining") 1 being (100%) of RAM and 2 (all remaining) reach a minimum of 200% coverage or overnight which is best. Paid version records all to a log, recording all errors short and long but continues to run, and is available even if the PC crashes to better diagnose the root cause. A quick look at their web site reveled they have a newer version, likely better, that I have not purchased yet but I purchased my version two years ago now. It may well be worth upgrading to but, I haven't yet, if I were you I would buy the current version and follow it's direction for best results.
> Once I know my overclocked memory is stable at default CPU clocks I will move on to OC the proc unless I plan to OC my GPU at which point now is the time for that otherwise you are putting the cart before the horse. At this time I see no good reason to overclock my memory beyond it's rated specs as there is very little performance gain to be had beyond that w/o headaches.
> Once I know my OCed GPU and Memory is rock solid at default CPU clocks it less likely they will be the root cause of an OC failure using Prime unless the failure is due to a voltage issue related to the proc itself. It's hard to rule any of that out of course but I'm saying it's less likely, as per usual you'll need to examine closely the failure to be sure. It's important to keep in mind by running your hardware overclocked it places a higher demand on the system bus in general including the IMC & chipset more specifically. Since these systems are designed to be overclocked typically their is a voltage or other bios parameter adjustment that can be made to effect a correction. Bottom line it's time to manual vcore overclock the proc using Prime. You'll need to understand what your low idle time x16 & high 100% laod vcore requirements are for a given clock. To determine this I typically use a custom blend w/max memory running 1344, 1792 & 2688 iterations say an hour each until I find the right voltages that pass.
> Now that I'm completely stable running those three I move on to offset mode. To check my settings I'm looking for the voltages to register in windows that I noted before as a requirement for low x16 and high 100% load vcore. As you may know dropping below the stock low idle vcore can cause idle time BSODs which is why I've taken this opportunity to point it out again. Depending on your proc specifically this will effect certain parameters as set in the bios play around with your setting until you see what you are looking for. Once I see the right voltages or slightly higher I will begin by testing the same three different iteration with Prime over again until I pass them.
> Now that I'm confident with voltages and temps it's time for a 24 hour max mem custom blend using all default iterations. Still there's no assurance you will pass but in most cases I'm very close at this point and only minor changes are in order. One thing for sure I'm not pulling my hair out trying to figure out what the problem is.
> 
> Once again nothing here is etched in stone, it's simply my method and it works for me. I hope this helps!
> 
> edit: corrected some spelling and grammar


Great guide as always! I knew that it would be more sensible to overclock the RAM and GPU first before the CPU. There are many guides here saying otherwise.

One thing I don't understand is why you run only two iterations of HCI Design Memtest? What I did last time was to run 4 different iterations of it because I use a 2500K quadcore CPU. Wouldn't that make more sense? I remember that that was the directive to me in using this program.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Great guide as always! I knew that it would be more sensible to overclock the RAM and GPU first before the CPU. There are many guides here saying otherwise.
> 
> One thing I don't understand is why you run only two iterations of HCI Design Memtest? What I did last time was to run 4 different iterations of it because I use a 2500K quadcore CPU. Wouldn't that make more sense? I remember that that was the directive to me in using this program.


I bought my paid version of HCI a couple years ago Ver 2 I think and have not visited the site in as many years although I still use it. I see they have a new version and different instruction on how to use. My version you only ran 2 instances as recommended at that time. I see now what you are talking about reading in the new manual so I would follow the instruction to the letter as instructed for the current version like I mentioned above. I'm looking forward to trying the new version so thanks for the headsup.

In terms of overclocking methodology I'm not sure why folks would OC the proc first unless they view it as the only objective or only piece of hardware necessary to OC. The same folks think running there 1866 rated pair at 1866 as running it at default vs what it actually is at which is overclocked. This is why folks run into trouble and end up scratching their heads when things go wrong.


----------



## davidm71

Guys got a question maybe someone has experienced this before and can offer help. Every now and then while I'm typing something in a forum on a browser, Chrome or Firefox, the system will freeze for a split second and any key I typed is delayed. Interesting that the mouse still is working but can't selected anything on screen. Getting a little annoying...

Thanks.


----------



## GeneO

I have had graphics driver bugs do that to me. But I think there could other problems that could cause that.


----------



## davidm71

Had this problem for a while. May have to do a new fresh install one of these days. So annoying though.

Edit: This is on my P8Z68 Deluxe build. Not the one in my sig.

Thanks.


----------



## TwoCables

The only time that has ever happened to me is when I have a Live Feed in a separate tab here on OCN. The live feeds here on OCN update once every 30 seconds, so it would pause for a split second every 30 seconds.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I bought my paid version of HCI a couple years ago Ver 2 I think and have not visited the site in as many years although I still use it. I see they have a new version and different instruction on how to use. My version you only ran 2 instances as recommended at that time. I see now what you are talking about reading in the new manual so I would follow the instruction to the letter as instructed for the current version like I mentioned above. I'm looking forward to trying the new version so thanks for the headsup.
> 
> In terms of overclocking methodology I'm not sure why folks would OC the proc first unless they view it as the only objective or only piece of hardware necessary to OC. The same folks think running there 1866 rated pair at 1866 as running it at default vs what it actually is at which is overclocked. This is why folks run into trouble and end up scratching their heads when things go wrong.


No problem.

Hmmm, so anything higher than 1333MHz for SB is an overclocked RAM module already? My RAM kits (2 kits of 2x2GB) are rated 1600MHz CAS7. I can run them stable at 1600MHz but at CAS9 and at Auto VCCIO and 1.5 Vdimm. Usually for 4 RAM modules, what setting do you have increase? Only CAS latency?


----------



## pjBSOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Guys got a question maybe someone has experienced this before and can offer help. Every now and then while I'm typing something in a forum on a browser, Chrome or Firefox, the system will freeze for a split second and any key I typed is delayed. Interesting that the mouse still is working but can't selected anything on screen. Getting a little annoying...
> 
> Thanks.


Could literally be _anything_ (not trying to sound rude). Start paying attention to when it happens, what programs are going when it's happening, etc. It could very easily be a software and or driver issue. Doubt something like that is motherboard related, but obviously could be any form of hardware.

That has happened to me on several installs and it ended up being a video card driver issue likely mixed with hardware acceleration. I can't stand HWA and disable it in practically everything that it's enabled it. It has always caused a lot of bugs with my 5850.


----------



## ucode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> That doesn't make sense since I could do it prior to 3207 bios regardless of other options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it was a bug of some sort, even if I set 33, it was 34 in windows.


Lol unfortunately just because something worked that way in a previous BIOS doesn't mean it will work the same way in a new BIOS









Here's a shot with 3602.
IIRC before 3207 there use to be an "additional turbo voltage" setting but disappeared in 3207 then came back in 3602.


If a multi above the HFM is selected (HFM = 33 for 2500k) then notice how turbo remains enabled but grayed out. IOW turbo needs to be enabled for multi's above 33.


Now enter 33 and BIOS automatically disables turbo.


The result...


If you want x33 for some reason then that is one way you should be able to do it.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> No problem.
> 
> Hmmm, so anything higher than 1333MHz for SB is an overclocked RAM module already? My RAM kits (2 kits of 2x2GB) are rated 1600MHz CAS7. I can run them stable at 1600MHz but at CAS9 and at Auto VCCIO and 1.5 Vdimm. Usually for 4 RAM modules, what setting do you have increase? Only CAS latency?


Yes anything over 1333 is beyond default. All you have to do is set optimized defaults in bios with any dimm pair or 4x dimm population for that matter to see what a SB or Ivy defaults at on a Z68 chipset. it will generally default to 1333 or in some cases 1066. This is a platform limitation as evidenced by looking at a block diagram of the z68 platform. Note in the image below pulled from the Intel site where it clearly shows the default DDR3 1333.



It has been confused a bit by Motherboard Mfg because they list anything over 1600 as (OC) partly due, I suspect, to the fact none of these boards have trouble running the 1600 spec but in actuality 1333 is the default and you have to make a manual adjustment or engage the XMP mode to get anything over 1333 which is overclocking the systems memory.

I see no good reason to run your CAS 7 memory at CAS 9 even with all four dimm slots populated unless you have a very poor proc IMC which I doubt it's that bad. In most cases I have experimented with, all that's generally required to get running all four dimm slots at the modules rated spec is a vdimm & vccio bump and in very few cases a minor Vcore bump (not likely). I'll take 1.5v rated dimms and apply 1.65vdimm (generally accepted max vdimm most mfg's) (definitely Intel max vdimm spec for SB procs). Then I'll bump vccio to between 1.1 to 1.2(max) to achieve the desired results. Other than that I use the XMP default timings by enabling XMP mode one time for the sole purpose of taking note of the default timings for a given module so I can turn around and set those timings manually in bios. Occasionally I will also have to lower the command rate from 1t to 2t to run stably which all depends on the specific pairs you are using. To error on the safe side use 2t at first setup to avoid the headache as there is very little if any performance decrease with the setting. If you follow this advice I see no reason why they could not be running at the rated speed of your modules as long as they are identical pairs & same revision number. GL and let us know how it goes.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Had this problem for a while. May have to do a new fresh install one of these days. So annoying though.
> 
> Edit: This is on my P8Z68 Deluxe build. Not the one in my sig.
> 
> Thanks.


Ever tried those browsers without Hardware Acceleration ?


----------



## TwoCables

The reason for 1066/1333 being the default is that's the natively-supported DDR3 speeds for Sandy Bridge.

For example, see the "Memory Types" here: http://ark.intel.com/products/52210/Intel-Core-i5-2500K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz

It says "DDR3-1066/1333". However, not every motherboard will default faster memory than this down to either 1066 or 1333 because many motherboard are designed to default to something else like DDR3-1600.

Ivy Bridge's "Memory Types" says "DDR3-1333/1600".


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes anything over 1333 is beyond default. All you have to do is set optimized defaults in bios with any dimm pair or 4x dimm population for that matter to see what a SB or Ivy defaults at on a Z68 chipset. it will generally default to 1333 or in some cases 1066. This is a platform limitation as evidenced by looking at a block diagram of the z68 platform. Note in the image below pulled from the Intel site where it clearly shows the default DDR3 1333.
> 
> 
> 
> It has been confused a bit by Motherboard Mfg because they list anything over 1600 as (OC) partly due, I suspect, to the fact none of these boards have trouble running the 1600 spec but in actuality 1333 is the default and you have to make a manual adjustment or engage the XMP mode to get anything over 1333 which is overclocking the systems memory.
> 
> I see no good reason to run your CAS 7 memory at CAS 9 even with all four dimm slots populated unless you have a very poor proc IMC which I doubt it's that bad. In most cases I have experimented with, all that's generally required to get running all four dimm slots at the modules rated spec is a vdimm & vccio bump and in very few cases a minor Vcore bump (not likely). I'll take 1.5v rated dimms and apply 1.65vdimm (generally accepted max vdimm most mfg's) (definitely Intel max vdimm spec for SB procs). Then I'll bump vccio to between 1.1 to 1.2(max) to achieve the desired results. Other than that I use the XMP default timings by enabling XMP mode one time for the sole purpose of taking note of the default timings for a given module so I can turn around and set those timings manually in bios. Occasionally I will also have to lower the command rate from 1t to 2t to run stably which all depends on the specific pairs you are using. To error on the safe side use 2t at first setup to avoid the headache as there is very little if any performance decrease with the setting. If you follow this advice I see no reason why they could not be running at the rated speed of your modules as long as they are identical pairs & same revision number. GL and let us know how it goes.


The weird thing is that my mobo defaults to 1600 when I set it to Optimized Defaults.

After setting to XMP, populating all 4 DIMMs would not even let me boot my computer actually. But I will try your suggestions of increasing VCCIO and VDIMM and see how it goes. And yes my kits are all the same, two kits of the same type. My bad, they are actually 1600MHz 6-8-6-24-2N modules, so CAS6 rated. Can I still run them at CAS6?

When you say bump VCCIO between 1.1 to 1.2V, should I do a stability test per increment and go with the lowest voltage I could be stable at?

These are my kits: http://www.memoryc.com/computermemory/ddr3/4gbgskillddr3pc3128001600mhzripjawsxseriesforsandybridge68624dualchannelkit.html . They run at their rated spec when only 2 modules (1 kit ) is installed individually. But when you populate all 4 DIMMs, then I can't even boot at their rated spec.

Oh by the way, do you even use the Ai Tweaker\CPU Power Management tab when overclocking your CPU? Do you tinker with the CPU Ratio and Additional Turbo Voltage parameters?

EDIT: I have tried increasing VDIMM to 1.65V, VCCIO to 1.2V and set CAS settings to 6-8-6-24-2 and have problems booting the system again. When I set the CAS settings to Auto they default at 9-8-9-28-2, what seems to be the problem here?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The reason for 1066/1333 being the default is that's the natively-supported DDR3 speeds for Sandy Bridge.
> 
> For example, see the "Memory Types" here: http://ark.intel.com/products/52210/Intel-Core-i5-2500K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz
> 
> It says "DDR3-1066/1333". However, not every motherboard will default faster memory than this down to either 1066 or 1333 because many motherboard are designed to default to something else like DDR3-1600.
> 
> Ivy Bridge's "Memory Types" says "DDR3-1333/1600".


Like what I said above.


----------



## TwoCables

Like I said, not every motherboard will default to the CPU's native support. Ours happen to be designed so that they default to DDR3-1600.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> EDIT: I have tried increasing VDIMM to 1.65V, VCCIO to 1.2V and set CAS settings to 6-8-6-24-2 and have problems booting the system again. When I set the CAS settings to Auto they default at 9-8-9-28-2, what seems to be the problem here?


If you can't get it to boot with those volts then you have a problem.. sort of shot yourself in the foot with populating all 4 DIMMs for 8GB of RAM. If you need them to run at CAS9 to use them that's what you need, you're not losing much except the fact that you're not getting what you bought (obviously).


----------



## malmental

RAM will default to 1333MHz automatically on any Sandy Bridge chip
if you have 1600MHz RAM then it has to be set that way in the BIOS, XMP or manually.
so more times then not it will default to the native support of the CPU, I say (more than not) because I guess anything is possible.
but I have yet see a mobo (with SB chip) default to anything else but 1333MHz unless you have slower RAM..

I do have an IB (i3-3220) on a H67 board and it runs 1600MHz but had to be set because I had a SB (i3-2120) in there before.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> If you can't get it to boot with those volts then you have a problem.. sort of shot yourself in the foot with populating all 4 DIMMs for 8GB of RAM. If you need them to run at CAS9 to use them that's what you need, you're not losing much except the fact that you're not getting what you bought (obviously).


That's weird. But they do run at their rated specs when only 1 kit (2 modules) are running. So that means there are no problems with both kits.

I was also reading that this is a common case when you populate all 4 DIMMs, you have to lower the CAS from their rated settings. I thought this was pretty known here?

Where could be the problem then? Board? I've tried two different boards already with this setup, ASUS P8Z68-V and ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3; same results for both. What am I missing here?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> RAM will default to 1333MHz automatically on any Sandy Bridge chip
> if you have 1600MHz RAM then it has to be set that way in the BIOS, XMP or manually.
> so more times then not it will default to the native support of the CPU, I say (more than not) because I guess anything is possible.
> but I have yet see a mobo (with SB chip) default to anything else but 1333MHz unless you have slower RAM..
> 
> I do have an IB (i3-3220) on a H67 board and it runs 1600MHz but had to be set because I had a SB (i3-2120) in there before.


But me and TwoCables already said that our boards run at 1600MHz default. We have an SB chip.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That's weird. But they do run at their rated specs when only 1 kit (2 modules) are running. So that means there are no problems with both kits.
> 
> I was also reading that this is a common case when you populate all 4 DIMMs, you have to lower the CAS from their rated settings. I thought this was pretty known here?


Using lower CAS # Latency settings means you're using "tighter" timings. This is like overclocking. What you need to do is "loosen" the timings by using higher numbers. What are the exact stock specs for your memory sticks? What does CPU-Z show in that far-right column in the Timings Table on the "SPD" tab?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But me and TwoCables already said that our boards run at 1600MHz default. We have an SB chip.


Then that's the way that motherboard works. It is an H67 board after all, and H67 is not for overclocking. So, they have no good reason to make DDR3-1600 default to DDR3-1600.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Using lower CAS # Latency settings means you're using "tighter" timings. This is like overclocking. What you need to do is "loosen" the timings by using higher numbers. What are the exact stock specs for your memory sticks? What does CPU-Z show in that far-right column in the Timings Table on the "SPD" tab?
> 
> Yes I know that. This is why lower CAS-rated (faster timings) RAM modules are more expensive. As seen in my signature, the stock timings of my modules are 6-8-6-24-2N and yes that is what's in CPU-Z also. It's also what is written when you set the RAM to XMP.
> 
> What owcraftsman and error is pointing out is that my system is supposed to run at these CAS settings (CAS6) but with increased VDIMM and VCCIO voltages. It doesn't work on mine though.
> 
> Then that's the way that motherboard works. It is an H67 board after all, and H67 is not for overclocking. So, they have no good reason to make DDR3-1600 default to DDR3-1600.


What do you mean? I have a Z68 board.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> 
> 
> But me and TwoCables already said that our boards run at 1600MHz default. We have an SB chip.
Click to expand...

no.
it only actually defaults to 1333MHz if running at 1600MHz then it was set that way previously in the past..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> no.
> it only actually defaults to 1333MHz if running at 1600MHz then it was set that way previously in the past..


What do you mean?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Using lower CAS # Latency settings means you're using "tighter" timings. This is like overclocking. What you need to do is "loosen" the timings by using higher numbers. What are the exact stock specs for your memory sticks? What does CPU-Z show in that far-right column in the Timings Table on the "SPD" tab?
> 
> Yes I know that. This is why lower CAS-rated (faster timings) RAM modules are more expensive. As seen in my signature, the stock timings of my modules are 6-8-6-24-2N and yes that is what's in CPU-Z also. It's also what is written when you set the RAM to XMP.
Click to expand...

Oh. I was getting the impression that the stock timings were closer to 9-8-9-28-2 due to getting set that way with Auto. I looked at your sig, but I thought that you put them in there because you really want those timings or something. I didn't understand, so I apologize. I understand now.

In other words, all of this was giving me the impression that you had a backwards understanding of the timings. Lots of people do.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Using lower CAS # Latency settings means you're using "tighter" timings. This is like overclocking. What you need to do is "loosen" the timings by using higher numbers. What are the exact stock specs for your memory sticks? What does CPU-Z show in that far-right column in the Timings Table on the "SPD" tab?
> 
> Yes I know that. This is why lower CAS-rated (faster timings) RAM modules are more expensive. As seen in my signature, the stock timings of my modules are 6-8-6-24-2N and yes that is what's in CPU-Z also. It's also what is written when you set the RAM to XMP.
> 
> What owcraftsman and error is pointing out is that my system is supposed to run at these CAS settings (CAS6) but with increased VDIMM and VCCIO voltages. It doesn't work on mine though.
Click to expand...

What voltages have you tried?

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Using lower CAS # Latency settings means you're using "tighter" timings. This is like overclocking. What you need to do is "loosen" the timings by using higher numbers. What are the exact stock specs for your memory sticks? What does CPU-Z show in that far-right column in the Timings Table on the "SPD" tab?
> 
> Yes I know that. This is why lower CAS-rated (faster timings) RAM modules are more expensive. As seen in my signature, the stock timings of my modules are 6-8-6-24-2N and yes that is what's in CPU-Z also. It's also what is written when you set the RAM to XMP.
> 
> What owcraftsman and error is pointing out is that my system is supposed to run at these CAS settings (CAS6) but with increased VDIMM and VCCIO voltages. It doesn't work on mine though.
> 
> Then that's the way that motherboard works. It is an H67 board after all, and H67 is not for overclocking. So, they have no good reason to make DDR3-1600 default to DDR3-1600.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean? I have a Z68 board.
Click to expand...

I was referring to malmetal's H67 board.


----------



## owcraftsman

Honestly I've never had trouble running all 4 dimm slots populated at the rated OC spec.

Although I'm no familiar with the *F3-12800CL6D-4GBXH* memory unless one of the sticks are defective or incompatible with your board or you are doing something wrong you should be able to run 4 of them at rated speed.

Simple steps as follows If you do it in this order you should have no trouble.


With two sticks in your board in the proper dual channel 2 sticks config slots
turn on PC and enter bios.
Press F5 to set optimized defaults then F10 to save and exit.
Your memory should now be running 1333
Enter bios and verify
Now on the AI Tweaker Page go to AI overclock Tuner and set it to XMP then F10
Enter bios go AI Tweaker Page go to Dram Timing Control open and record on paper the top five entries on that page
go back to AI Tweaker main page to AI Overclock tuner again and select Auto then F10 to save and exit
Turn off machine and install the other two modules in the remaining two dimm slots
Turn On PC and enter bios
go to the AI Tweaker Page scroll to Memory Frequency select 1600
got to Dram Timing Control and manually set the top five timings as recorded earlier and leave all else auto
go back to AI Tweaker main page and scroll to DRAM Voltage and type 1.65
Now set VCCIO to 1.10625 then press F10 to save and exit

If the system freezes one of a few thing may be wrong. 1) You may need a different bios 2) You may have a defective module 3)Your proc may need more vccio do not exceed 1.2vccio under any circumstances if that or below doesn't work it's likely something else. 4) You might have a defective Proc 5) You may have a defective dimm slot or motherboard. 6) There may be a compatibility issue with your current hardware.

GSkill says they do not support combining two kits for 8GB and recommend buying an 8GB kit Likely good advice. Personally I'd stop fighting that memory.

However I dug out an extra set of Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M2A1866C9 and added them to my V-Pro today exactly as I illustrated above. I've been using this PC in my Home Theater at stock clocks for noise and temps. Then I slapped an Overclock on it of 4.6 and ran the newest HCI Design 4.0 Pro to a bit over 100% coverage to illustrate the ease in which these boards handle compatible memory.



Notable: Clearly the CPU is stressed in all 8 thread evenly. All I did was start an instance of the Pro version and the other four opened after I clicked ok on the prompt to do so. It automatically calculated the number of available cores hence the 4 additional windows/instances and each of the 5 instances at 3033MB each for a total of 15165 MB tested. I closed a few running apps to insure a nice cushion for the duration of the test which took approx 3 hrs to get to 100% coverage in all instances. I was quit impressed with the software and believe it will do nicely testing RAM.

Bottom Line it's just that easy with the right hardware.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> no.
> it only actually defaults to 1333MHz if running at 1600MHz then it was set that way previously in the past..
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Honestly I've never had trouble running all 4 dimm slots populated at the rated OC spec.
> Although I'm no familiar with the *F3-12800CL6D-4GBXH* memory unless one of the sticks are defective or incompatible with your board or you are doing something wrong you should be able to run 4 of them at rated speed.
> 
> Simple steps as follows If you do it in this order you should have no trouble.
> 
> With two sticks in your board in the proper dual channel 2 sticks config slots
> turn on PC and enter bios.
> *Press F5 to set optimized defaults then F10 to save and exit.*
> *Your memory should now be running 1333*
> Enter bios and verify
> Now on the AI Tweaker Page go to AI overclock Tuner and set it to XMP then F10
> Enter bios go AI Tweaker Page go to Dram Timing Control open and record on paper the top five entries on that page
> go back to AI Tweaker main page to AI Overclock tuner again and select Auto then F10 to save and exit
> Turn off machine and install the other two modules in the remaining two dimm slots
> Turn On PC and enter bios
> go to the AI Tweaker Page scroll to Memory Frequency select 1600


^
THIS...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh. I was getting the impression that the stock timings were closer to 9-8-9-28-2 due to getting set that way with Auto. I looked at your sig, but I thought that you put them in there because you really want those timings or something. I didn't understand, so I apologize. I understand now.
> 
> In other words, all of this was giving me the impression that you had a backwards understanding of the timings. Lots of people do.
> 
> What voltages have you tried?
> 
> I was referring to malmetal's H67 board.


Ah, nope I actually get the basic know-how of timings.

I've tried 1.65V VDIMM and 1.2V VCCIO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Honestly I've never had trouble running all 4 dimm slots populated at the rated OC spec.
> Although I'm no familiar with the *F3-12800CL6D-4GBXH* memory unless one of the sticks are defective or incompatible with your board or you are doing something wrong you should be able to run 4 of them at rated speed.
> 
> Simple steps as follows If you do it in this order you should have no trouble.
> 
> With two sticks in your board in the proper dual channel 2 sticks config slots
> turn on PC and enter bios.
> Press F5 to set optimized defaults then F10 to save and exit.
> Your memory should now be running 1333
> Enter bios and verify
> Now on the AI Tweaker Page go to AI overclock Tuner and set it to XMP then F10
> Enter bios go AI Tweaker Page go to Dram Timing Control open and record on paper the top five entries on that page
> go back to AI Tweaker main page to AI Overclock tuner again and select Auto then F10 to save and exit
> Turn off machine and install the other two modules in the remaining two dimm slots
> Turn On PC and enter bios
> go to the AI Tweaker Page scroll to Memory Frequency select 1600
> got to Dram Timing Control and manually set the top five timings as recorded earlier and leave all else auto
> go back to AI Tweaker main page and scroll to DRAM Voltage and type 1.65
> Now set VCCIO to 1.10625 then press F10 to save and exit
> If the system freezes one of a few thing may be wrong. 1) You may need a different bios 2) You may have a defective module 3)Your proc may need more vccio do not exceed 1.2vccio under any circumstances if that or below doesn't work it's likely something else. 4) You might have a defective Proc 5) You may have a defective dimm slot or motherboard. 6) There may be a compatibility issue with your current hardware.
> 
> GSkill says they do not support combining two kits for 8GB and recommend buying an 8GB kit Likely good advice. Personally I'd stop fighting that memory.
> 
> However I dug out an extra set of Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M2A1866C9 and added them to my V-Pro today exactly as I illustrated above. I've been using this PC in my Home Theater at stock clocks for noise and temps. Then I slapped an Overclock on it of 4.6 and ran the newest HCI Design 4.0 Pro to a bit over 100% coverage to illustrate the ease in which these boards handle compatible memory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notable: Clearly the CPU is stressed in all 8 thread evenly. All I did was start an instance of the Pro version and the other four opened after I clicked ok on the prompt to do so. It automatically calculated the number of available cores hence the 4 additional windows/instances and each of the 5 instances at 3033MB each for a total of 15165 MB tested. I closed a few running apps to insure a nice cushion for the duration of the test which took approx 3 hrs to get to 100% coverage in all instances. I was quit impressed with the software and believe it will do nicely testing RAM.
> 
> Bottom Line it's just that easy with the right hardware.


Thanks but as I've mentioned above I've already tried running the 2 kits individually at their rated spec and they boot just fine. I already set the timings and memory clock manually with their XMP-rated specs as instructed above. I even tried it with two different boards. I'm actually with the inital BIOS release for my board and this release is known to be the most stable for overclocking the CPU with Win7 so I refrain from updating as much as possible.

I have tried using 1.65V VDIMM and 1.2V VCCIO but the system just won't boot. Don't you think CAS6 with 4 populated DIMMs is just too much?

Yes, HCI Design Memtest is really a great software. I thought the program should run number of instances = number of threads? That's what I was doing manually with the free version, open 8 instances for 8 threads. In your case, why was it running 5 instances?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> ^
> THIS...


Well it's not, it is running at 1600MHz at default. I'm not lying here.


----------



## owcraftsman

@ Kevin I suggest you get some decent RAM what you have appears to work well as a 2x2GB kit but not combining two kits. Other folks with the same RAM have experienced the same thing. This is why I illustrated to you how easy it can be with a high quality module. I couldn't have been more simple or straight forward with the example. For you to continue to miss the point is beyond me but I wish you all the luck in the world discovering a solution.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> @ Kevin I suggest you get some decent RAM what you have appears to work well as a 2x2GB kit but not combining two kits. Other folks with the same RAM have experienced the same thing. This is why I illustrated to you how easy it can be with a high quality module. I couldn't have been more simple or straight forward with the example. For you to continue to miss the point is beyond me but I wish you all the luck in the world discovering a solution.


Oh ok, so a 2x4GB kit would be better? Actually, the kits I have are one of the best kits at their time. They were considered very very good overclockers.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm actually with the inital BIOS release for my board and this release is known to be the most stable for overclocking the CPU with Win7 so I refrain from updating as much as possible.


This here could actually be your problem, possibly. The updates BIOS versions may have more compatibility towards the RAM allowing you to use it how you want. Have you seen a lot more stability after you rolled back, considering it's the initial BIOS version it'd be missing a fair amount of 'fixes' (and new bugs you moved away from).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> This here could actually be your problem, possibly. The updates BIOS versions may have more compatibility towards the RAM allowing you to use it how you want. Have you seen a lot more stability after you rolled back, considering it's the initial BIOS version it'd be missing a fair amount of 'fixes' (and new bugs you moved away from).


Well, it is quite known for these motherboard that updating to the latest BIOS would require a significant increase in CPU Vcore to attain the same overclock. I did overclock with the latest BIOS and my CPU was Vcore hungry. I haven't tried yet with the initial BIOS release but I'm expecting it to need a significantly less Vcore.


----------



## TwoCables

I just had a thought: is your memory from before Sandy Bridge came out?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I just had a thought: is your memory from before Sandy Bridge came out?


Not at all. At the time of Sandy Bridge, it was one of the most recommended 2x2GB kit. Here's the product site: http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=352 and it is an SB-qualified kit because it uses 1.5V.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Not at all. At the time of Sandy Bridge, it was one of the most recommended 2x2GB kit. Here's the product site: http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=352 and it is an SB-qualified kit because it uses 1.5V.


Oh. You have two two 2 x 2GB kits. It's all coming back to me now. When you were shopping around for memory, did you look at any of the 4 x 2GB kits? Did you notice how the comparable 4 x 2GB kits had much looser timings than the comparable 2 x 2GB kits? What you have done is you essentially manually created one of G.SKILL's 4 x 2GB using y our two 2 x 2GB kits. That's why your timings default to looser ones, and that's why it works better with looser timings. I don't know why it works this way, but it just does. For as long as you keep both 2 x 2GB kits in your system, you have no choice but to use the looser timings.

If you don't believe me, look around and compare similar 2 x 2 GB and 4 x 2 GB kits. Each time you find kits with modules that look like they are identical, the 4 x 2GB kits always have the looser timings. Actually, you probably don't even have to worry about finding similar kits. You can probably just look at any Ripjaws X kit with 4 modules of 2GB each. I'm doing that right now, and all I'm seeing are timings like 9-9-9-24.

Here are a few examples:


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231493
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231325
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231514

I apologize for not remembering this sooner. This is the answer and explanation regarding why 6-8-6-24 does not work.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh. You have two two 2 x 2GB kits. It's all coming back to me now. When you were shopping around for memory, did you look at any of the 4 x 2GB kits? Did you notice how the comparable 4 x 2GB kits had much looser timings than the comparable 2 x 2GB kits? What you have done is you essentially manually created one of G.SKILL's 4 x 2GB using y our two 2 x 2GB kits. That's why your timings default to looser ones, and that's why it works better with looser timings. I don't know why it works this way, but it just does. For as long as you keep both 2 x 2GB kits in your system, you have no choice but to use the looser timings.
> 
> If you don't believe me, look around and compare similar 2 x 2 GB and 4 x 2 GB kits. Each time you find kits with modules that look like they are identical, the 4 x 2GB kits always have the looser timings. Actually, you probably don't even have to worry about finding similar kits. You can probably just look at any Ripjaws X kit with 4 modules of 2GB each. I'm doing that right now, and all I'm seeing are timings like 9-9-9-24.
> 
> Here are a few examples:
> 
> [*] http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231493
> [*] http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231325
> [*] http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231514
> 
> I apologize for not remembering this sooner. This is the answer and explanation regarding why 6-8-6-24 does not work.


Thank you! And I do believe you. Actually, I'm using these kits for more than a year now and have long accepted the fact that they will never run at CAS6 if they are ran together. The reason I brought this issue again is when I read about the ideas of owcraftsman that they "should" run at their rated specs regardless if they are individually installed or installed together.

6-8-6-24 for all 4 DIMM slots populated is just too much for the IMC in the CPU to handle. That's it, case closed









So would it be always better, in general, to just to with 2x4GB kits? Also, is it recommended to upgrade to 16GB from 8GB?


----------



## TwoCables

Editing. Accidental posting.

*Edit:* I forgot that I was trying to edit this post. Wow.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thank you! And I do believe you. Actually, I'm using these kits for more than a year now and have long accepted the fact that they will never run at CAS6 if they are ran together. The reason I brought this issue again is when I read about the ideas of owcraftsman that they "should" run at their rated specs regardless if they are individually installed or installed together.
> 
> 6-8-6-24 for all 4 DIMM slots populated is just too much for the IMC in the CPU to handle. That's it, case closed


I was thinking the same thing about the IMC. That has to be it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So would it be always better, in general, to just to with 2x4GB kits?


I'm not sure if there's a definitive answer for that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Also, is it recommended to upgrade to 16GB from 8GB?


Only if you need to.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I was thinking the same thing about the IMC. That has to be it.
> 
> I'm not sure if there's a definitive answer for that.
> 
> Only if you need to.


Yeah. Some say that using 2 modules only will put less strain on the IMC. That might be true but if you remember the OCN member pioneerisloud, he was the one who suggested to me to go with these kits as the 2 vs. 4 modules myth doesn't affect the SB chips too much. He even was able to overclock better with 4 modules. So I'm not sure if it would be wise to sell these kits and get a new 2x4GB kit as a replacement.

Usually, when FF is opened (it has tons of tabs) and my RAM usage is around 50% according to Task Manager. When do I consider that I'm in need of extra RAM?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah. Some say that using 2 modules only will put less strain on the IMC. That might be true but if you remember the OCN member pioneerisloud, he was the one who suggested to me to go with these kits as the 2 vs. 4 modules myth doesn't affect the SB chips too much. He even was able to overclock better with 4 modules. So I'm not sure if it would be wise to sell these kits and get a new 2x4GB kit as a replacement.


I guess if you could find a 2 x 4 GB kit that is DDR3-1600 with tighter timings then it might be worth it, but even then I doubt you'd notice or feel a difference.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Usually, when FF is opened (it has tons of tabs) and my RAM usage is around 50% according to Task Manager. When do I consider that I'm in need of extra RAM?


I personally don't know, but my gut feeling is maybe 80-85% because with 8 GB of memory, 80-85% leaves 1.6 or 1.2 GB free.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> ^
> THIS...


Quote:


> Well it's not, it is running at 1600MHz at default. I'm not lying here.


still do not believe it...
I think your wrong but without proof, let's agree to disagree..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> still do not believe it...
> I think your wrong but without proof, let's agree to disagree..


I think the P8P67 and P8Z68 series defaults all memory at DDR3-1600 if it's DDR3-1600 or higher. Mine is DDR3-1866 and it defaulted to 1600.


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think the P8P67 and P8Z68 series defaults all memory at DDR3-1600 if it's DDR3-1600 or higher. Mine is DDR3-1866 and it defaulted to 1600.


I'm pretty sure that's how my P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3 handles it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> still do not believe it...
> I think your wrong but without proof, let's agree to disagree..


I hope the other people who backed me up is enough proof for you


----------



## malmental

maybe so then...








I have to check my P8P67 WS Rev B3 and see if it does or not, I do not think it does.
I didn't bother checking my P8Z68 or P8Z77 because I just set it to XMP upon initial set-up..
rep +1 for you..

cheers.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> still do not believe it...
> I think your wrong but without proof, let's agree to disagree..
> 
> 
> 
> I hope the other people who backed me up is enough proof for you
Click to expand...

Maybe this is what is pointing to the real problem with those, possibly others, low latency Raptor X kits. That is to say those kits that default to 1600 which is not indicative/default to the platform. I produced the block diagram for the Z68 platform which clearly shows 1333 as the default on that I hope we don't disagree. It is an Intel spec not mine. All modules have speed data stored on them as well as XMP profiles so the modules will have values a system can default to at POST. So I can see where this is possible but it may well be pointing to how these modules need to be approached in terms of setup. I know all modules I have tried to date default to 1333 but I have not considered paying the premium for low latency kits as their is no real world performance gain to be had making lesser grade kits a better bang for the proverbial buck. I'm sure they will produce better bench results but not enough better to justify the cost. Money is better spent on SSDs for example. However back to the point, maybe we are going about this all wrong in terms of getting all four sticks up and running at their full potential. As I've stated before I always engage XMP mode to take notes of the factory preset & tested timings. When I do this I have noticed a difference between auto timings with two vs four sticks. Thankfully with the sticks I use they auto set to usable timings when using 2 or 4 sticks. Obviously the Raptor X sticks do not so shame on GSkill for this. I checked this, this AM to see what parameters changed in an effort to aid you to a possible solution. I have no idea or ability to check it for you since I don't have any of those modules to check it but you may want to try yourself.

Let me explain first how I went about this. I took two of the sticks proven to work at 1866 in 2x and 4x dimm slot population config in a CPU OCed environment as evidenced by the screen above post #8096. XMP mode two stick timings are 9-10-9-27-2-7-150-7280-10-7-35-7-5-8-32-32-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4. When I manually set all these timings and set memory freq to1866 two sticks run stable. When I add two sticks with the same timings all manually set the system will not boot. If I manually set the top five settings only leaving all else auto the system boots and memory runs stable. This points to Corsair doing their homework insuring the proper speed data for 4x these sticks is available. Kudos to Corsair for this. So I went in there this AM to see what if any difference there is in the timings as they are currently running. As you all know the current value of any given timing is illustrated even when set to auto so I jotted down the timings used for 4x4GB to compare with the 2x4gb XMP value which are: 9-10-9-27-2-7-150-7280-10-7-35-7-5-8-38-39-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4 the only differences highlighted in red. This illustrates to me the difference in the two kits one has speed data that works and the others (low latency RaptorX) do not. So in there may lie a resolve. The trick will be getting in to bios with all dimm slots populated to effect the proper changes on your Raptor X. To test my theory I manually input all timings using the current value instead of using auto as you will recall this failed to boot before but now with the two changes 32-32 to 38-39 the system boots fine and Memtest is running without errors all timings are manually set leaving nothing to chance or proper spd data being programed properly by the mfg.

So what are those two timings? 38 is the DRAM RTL (CHA) timing and 39 is the DRAM RTL (CHB) timing. (CHA) is +6 and (CHB) is +7. So my theory is you need to find the XMP vaule for all timings, input them manually with a +6 bump to (CHA) & +7 bump to (CHB). Again the trick will be how to get into bios with all four dimms to effect the change but at least you have some bearing to shoot for.

GL I hope this helps!


----------



## malmental

^
Quote:


> Maybe this is what is pointing to the real problem with those, possibly others, low latency Raptor X kits. That is to say those kits that default to 1600 which is not indicative/default to the platform. I produced the block diagram for the Z68 platform which clearly shows 1333 as the default on that I hope we don't disagree. It is an Intel spec not mine. All modules have speed data stored on them as well as XMP profiles so the modules will have values a system can default to at POST. So I can see where this is possible but it may well be pointing to how these modules need to be approached in terms of setup. I know all modules I have tried to date default to 1333


+1000


----------



## moystard

Hello everyone,

I have started overclocking my CPU yesterday, following partially the tutorial in the first post for my initial settings. With a 42x multiplier, everything is perfectly stable, however my vcore is a bit high while on full charge (1.4v). I have difficulties to understand how the offset mode works: my understanding is that the motherboard will try to guess the good vcore and can use the offset while on full charge. I set the offset to 0.04v but as I previously stated, 1.4v seems rather high for 4.2Ghz. What should I do from now on to optimise my o/c?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Maybe this is what is pointing to the real problem with those, possibly others, low latency Raptor X kits. That is to say those kits that default to 1600 which is not indicative/default to the platform. I produced the block diagram for the Z68 platform which clearly shows 1333 as the default on that I hope we don't disagree. It is an Intel spec not mine. All modules have speed data stored on them as well as XMP profiles so the modules will have values a system can default to at POST. So I can see where this is possible but it may well be pointing to how these modules need to be approached in terms of setup. I know all modules I have tried to date default to 1333 but I have not considered paying the premium for low latency kits as their is no real world performance gain to be had making lesser grade kits a better bang for the proverbial buck. I'm sure they will produce better bench results but not enough better to justify the cost. Money is better spent on SSDs for example. However back to the point, maybe we are going about this all wrong in terms of getting all four sticks up and running at their full potential. As I've stated before I always engage XMP mode to take notes of the factory preset & tested timings. When I do this I have noticed a difference between auto timings with two vs four sticks. Thankfully with the sticks I use they auto set to usable timings when using 2 or 4 sticks. Obviously the Raptor X sticks do not so shame on GSkill for this. I checked this, this AM to see what parameters changed in an effort to aid you to a possible solution. I have no idea or ability to check it for you since I don't have any of those modules to check it but you may want to try yourself.
> 
> Let me explain first how I went about this. I took two of the sticks proven to work at 1866 in 2x and 4x dimm slot population config in a CPU OCed environment as evidenced by the screen above post #8096. XMP mode two stick timings are 9-10-9-27-2-7-150-7280-10-7-35-7-5-8-32-32-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4. When I manually set all these timings and set memory freq to1866 two sticks run stable. When I add two sticks with the same timings all manually set the system will not boot. If I manually set the top five settings only leaving all else auto the system boots and memory runs stable. This points to Corsair doing their homework insuring the proper speed data for 4x these sticks is available. Kudos to Corsair for this. So I went in there this AM to see what if any difference there is in the timings as they are currently running. As you all know the current value of any given timing is illustrated even when set to auto so I jotted down the timings used for 4x4GB to compare with the 2x4gb XMP value which are: 9-10-9-27-2-7-150-7280-10-7-35-7-5-8-38-39-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4 the only differences highlighted in red. This illustrates to me the difference in the two kits one has speed data that works and the others (low latency RaptorX) do not. So in there may lie a resolve. The trick will be getting in to bios with all dimm slots populated to effect the proper changes on your Raptor X. To test my theory I manually input all timings using the current value instead of using auto as you will recall this failed to boot before but now with the two changes 32-32 to 38-39 the system boots fine and Memtest is running without errors all timings are manually set leaving nothing to chance or proper spd data being programed properly by the mfg.
> 
> So what are those two timings? 38 is the DRAM RTL (CHA) timing and 39 is the DRAM RTL (CHB) timing. (CHA) is +6 and (CHB) is +7. So my theory is you need to find the XMP vaule for all timings, input them manually with a +6 bump to (CHA) & +7 bump to (CHB). Again the trick will be how to get into bios with all four dimms to effect the change but at least you have some bearing to shoot for.
> 
> GL I hope this helps!


Thanks for the explanation again.

This maybe the case for your kits because they rated at CAS9 only. I think you would've experience the same if they were CAS6, but I don't think there are CAS6 rated 4GB modules and up.

Anyway, I've tried to do the same steps as you did. Here are the steps in order:

1.) Tried 2x DIMM, set to XMP and rebooted. Settings were DDR3-1600 6-8-6-24-2-5-88-6240-12-6-24-6-4-8-33/32-34/32-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4. In XMP mode, the top five timings are set manually by the system and all the rest are set to Auto. It is also weird that in this config, CHA D0=33, CHA D1=32, CHB D0=34, and CHB D1=32, is this normal?

2.) Keeping 2x DIMM, I set everything at Auto and rebooted. Settings were DDR3-1600 9-9-9-28-1-5-88-6240-12-6-24-6-4-8-35/32-36/32-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4.

3.) Tried 4X DIMM, I set everything at Auto and rebooted. Settings were DDR3-1600 9-9-9-28-2-5-88-6240-12-6-24-6-4-8-37/37-37/38-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4.

4.) Keeping 4X DIMM, set to XMP and rebooted. System doesn't want to boot.

5.) Kepping 4X DIMM, set to XMP and manually set 6-8-6-24-2 for top 5 timing values. System doesn't want to boot.

What else should I do for troubleshooting?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation again.
> 
> This maybe the case for your kits because they rated at CAS9 only. I think you would've experience the same if they were CAS6, but I don't think there are CAS6 rated 4GB modules and up.
> 
> Anyway, I've tried to do the same steps as you did. Here are the steps in order:
> 
> 1.) Tried 2x DIMM, set to XMP and rebooted. Settings were DDR3-1600 6-8-6-24-2-5-88-6240-12-6-24-6-4-8-33/32-34/32-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4. In XMP mode, the top five timings are set manually by the system and all the rest are set to Auto. It is also weird that in this config, CHA D0=33, CHA D1=32, CHB D0=34, and CHB D1=32, is this normal? for what GSkill wants I guess understanding what it mean is beyond me I know I did not see this w/my pairs.
> 
> 2.) Keeping 2x DIMM, I set everything at Auto and rebooted. Settings were DDR3-1600 9-9-9-28-1-5-88-6240-12-6-24-6-4-8-35/32-36/32-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4. must be the speed data settings I mentioned above.
> 
> 3.) Tried 4X DIMM, I set everything at Auto and rebooted. Settings were DDR3-1600 9-9-9-28-2-5-88-6240-12-6-24-6-4-8-37/37-37/38-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4. so you can get in to bios with all 4 dimm slots populated that's good can you get in to windows w/these setting?
> 
> 4.) Keeping 4X DIMM, set to XMP and rebooted. System doesn't want to boot.
> 
> 5.) Kepping 4X DIMM, set to XMP and manually set 6-8-6-24-2 for top 5 timing values. System doesn't want to boot. as I said Corsair did there homework and GSkill obviously has not so you won;t be able to count on there auto defaults
> 
> What else should I do for troubleshooting?


To test my theory I would go back to settings from 2 above and boot to bios. I will assume for the moment there is no OC on the proc and Ai Tuner is set to auto as well (not XMP) before you proceed.

Now set memory freq on the AiTweaker page to 1600 not auto

Then go into Memory Control and set these timings

6-8-6-24-2-5-88-6240-12-6-24-6-4-8-39-41-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4 leaving nothing on auto.

Now pray for the PC Gods to have mercy and press F10 to save and exit.

If that doesn't work then you may have to continue to play with those two settings Round Trip Latency (RTL) until you get it right or have exhausted all effort.

FYI: I took the highest of the two values for each of the RTL settings from the 2x XMP values listed above in item 1) and plugged in my theroy of +6 on the RTL (CHA) and +7 on theRTL (CHB) if you were wondering how I arrived at those numbers.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moystard*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have started overclocking my CPU yesterday, following partially the tutorial in the first post for my initial settings. With a 42x multiplier, everything is perfectly stable, however my vcore is a bit high while on full charge (1.4v). I have difficulties to understand how the offset mode works: my understanding is that the motherboard will try to guess the good vcore and can use the offset while on full charge. I set the offset to 0.04v but as I previously stated, 1.4v seems rather high for 4.2Ghz. What should I do from now on to optimise my o/c?


Check your LLC setting. Otherwise you can use negative offset. Overclocking means trial and error.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> To test my theory I would go back to settings from 2 above and boot to bios. I will assume for the moment there is no OC on the proc and Ai Tuner is set to auto as well (not XMP) before you proceed.
> Now set memory freq on the AiTweaker page to 1600 not auto
> Then go into Memory Control and set these timings
> 6-8-6-24-2-5-88-6240-12-6-24-6-4-8-39-41-1-3-3-3-1-4-3-3-4 leaving nothing on auto.
> Now pray for the PC Gods to have mercy and press F10 to save and exit.
> If that doesn't work then you may have to continue to play with those two settings Round Trip Latency (RTL) until you get it right or have exhausted all effort.
> 
> FYI: I took the highest of the two values for each of the RTL settings from the 2x XMP values listed above in item 1) and plugged in my theroy of +6 on the RTL (CHA) and +7 on theRTL (CHB) if you were wondering how I arrived at those numbers.


The theory didn't work for me







Just tried it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> All I can say is this is the way I do it which makes sense to me.
> 
> I take a new build and test all at optimized defaults to eliminate defective parts. I'll run HCI overnight and Prime 24 hrs (w/AVX) 24 hrs. then conclude with stressing my GPU where I'll use OCCT or any combination of software that stress the GPU at 100% and scans for artifacts at the same time 3-4 hours here should be sufficient.
> If all goes well their I will move on to overclocking my memory to it's factory spec, for this example let's say it's a 1866 pair, I would engage the XMP mode one time only to record it's default timings top to bottom then use that to set manually in bios, furthermore I boost VCCIO and Vdimm slighty for insurance just in case I have a weak IMC proc., then test memory using HCI design Memtest. I usually run that until the slowest of the two iteration (usually the 2nd "all Remaining") 1 being (100%) of RAM and 2 (all remaining) reach a minimum of 200% coverage or overnight which is best. Paid version records all to a log, recording all errors short and long but continues to run, and is available even if the PC crashes to better diagnose the root cause. A quick look at their web site reveled they have a newer version, likely better, that I have not purchased yet but I purchased my version two years ago now. It may well be worth upgrading to but, I haven't yet, if I were you I would buy the current version and follow it's direction for best results.
> Once I know my overclocked memory is stable at default CPU clocks I will move on to OC the proc unless I plan to OC my GPU at which point now is the time for that otherwise you are putting the cart before the horse. At this time I see no good reason to overclock my memory beyond it's rated specs as there is very little performance gain to be had beyond that w/o headaches.
> Once I know my OCed GPU and Memory is rock solid at default CPU clocks it less likely they will be the root cause of an OC failure using Prime unless the failure is due to a voltage issue related to the proc itself. It's hard to rule any of that out of course but I'm saying it's less likely, as per usual you'll need to examine closely the failure to be sure. It's important to keep in mind by running your hardware overclocked it places a higher demand on the system bus in general including the IMC & chipset more specifically. Since these systems are designed to be overclocked typically their is a voltage or other bios parameter adjustment that can be made to effect a correction. Bottom line it's time to manual vcore overclock the proc using Prime. You'll need to understand what your low idle time x16 & high 100% laod vcore requirements are for a given clock. To determine this I typically use a custom blend w/max memory running 1344, 1792 & 2688 iterations say an hour each until I find the right voltages that pass.
> Now that I'm completely stable running those three I move on to offset mode. To check my settings I'm looking for the voltages to register in windows that I noted before as a requirement for low x16 and high 100% load vcore. As you may know dropping below the stock low idle vcore can cause idle time BSODs which is why I've taken this opportunity to point it out again. Depending on your proc specifically this will effect certain parameters as set in the bios play around with your setting until you see what you are looking for. Once I see the right voltages or slightly higher I will begin by testing the same three different iteration with Prime over again until I pass them.
> Now that I'm confident with voltages and temps it's time for a 24 hour max mem custom blend using all default iterations. Still there's no assurance you will pass but in most cases I'm very close at this point and only minor changes are in order. One thing for sure I'm not pulling my hair out trying to figure out what the problem is.
> 
> Once again nothing here is etched in stone, it's simply my method and it works for me. I hope this helps!
> 
> edit: corrected some spelling and grammar


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> No problem.
> 
> Hmmm, so anything higher than 1333MHz for SB is an overclocked RAM module already? My RAM kits (2 kits of 2x2GB) are rated 1600MHz CAS7. I can run them stable at 1600MHz but at CAS9 and at Auto VCCIO and 1.5 Vdimm. Usually for 4 RAM modules, what setting do you have increase? Only CAS latency?


In the Intel Memory section of OCN, they say that VCCIO is VTT but NOT the IMC voltage. They say that VCCSA is the IMC voltage.

What do you think on this?


----------



## Catscratch

VCCSA is SystemAgent voltage which is NOT TO BE TOUCHED. At least for sandy and ivy.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> VCCSA is SystemAgent voltage which is NOT TO BE TOUCHED. At least for sandy and ivy.


Yes. The thing is that some say VCCIO is the IMC voltage and some say VCCSA is. You're one of those who say that VCCSA is NOT the IMC voltage.

This is what's confusing me.


----------



## Catscratch

VCCIO is the IO voltage. It's the voltage for the controller which controls what goes into cpu from outside, I/O Input Output. This covers both rams and PCI-E lanes.

VCCSA is about the BCLK, which is suggested to remain at 100.0 at all times, that's why you are not supposed to touch VCCSA either









I never read VCCSA being/confused for Memory Controller anywhere. You could, however confuse VCCSA with regular NB voltage like a FSB voltage in the old days. AMD still calls it NB voltage and CPU-NB for the IMC. So, VCCSA is tied to BCLK, as NB is tied to Base Clock/Freq on AMD. Might provide a bit stability if you are messing with BCLK, which many avoid (can cause data corruption), max is 0.975v


----------



## owcraftsman

Do either of you have the ability to ADJUST VCCSA in your bios?

I know I lost that ability when updating from the original bios release on z68 and moving from p67 to z68.

It's my understanding it has been removed from most bios (asus at least).

In an effort to help you understand what's happening all I know for sure it what I have seen happen on my own systems. I know vccsa adjust dynamically. For example at default setting/stock clocks either load or idle my vccsa voltage hovers around .0925 (the default). When I take the same system and set to run a 4.6 overclock it hovers at 1.111vccsa. I conclude it dynamically adjust. In an effort to understand why I had to tinker because there is no setting in my bios to effect a change of this parameter. After much consternation I know that adjusting the vccio has an effect on raising the SA voltage. Although electrically the *vccio effects the i/o range of the CPU pins it does not effect memory pins* which one would assume is the IMC. In there lies the source of confusion. Taken logically it would appear counter productive then to adjust the vccio to improve memory compatibility since it doesn't effect the memory pins however adjusting it directly effects the dynamics of the SA voltage which is in part the IMC which is why it's effective. I know it's complicated and I don't make it any easier by my inability to articulate it properly but do try to digest what I'm suggesting here. This explains why most feel the vccio is the IMC voltage when in actuality it is not. It also explains why adjusting vccsa, when available, has an adverse effect. It needs to be controlled by the Proc and hard setting it when it needs to be dynamic is overly complicated or impossible to nail down at best.

FYI: I use Adia64 (paid ver) to monitor vccsa and you can check for yourself the dynamic nature of the vccsa and the effects adjusting vccio has on it. I'm not trying to say vccio is the be all to end all in terms of fixing memory issues as it's not clear to me that other bios parameters don't have similar effects to the dynamic vccsa voltage not the least of which maybe PLL voltage adjustments and LLC settings all may play a role in someway. I'd have to do more testing to understand completely. What I do know is I used stock clocks vs overclocked settings as evidence so the latter involved changing PLL and LLC but the vccio adjustment was only needed when running all four dimm slots populated at memory & cpu overclocked speeds. Otherwise the auto setting for vccio and vccsa is adequate for most cpu overclocks and 2x dimm slot overclocked memory.

In any case, as always, I hope this helps!


----------



## kizwan

SB datasheet:-
VCCSA: System Agent (memory controller, DMI, PCIe controllers, and display engine) power supply

VCCSA not just for base clocks overclocking but also for memory frequencies overclocking.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> SB datasheet:-
> VCCSA: System Agent (memory controller, DMI, PCIe controllers, and display engine) power supply
> 
> VCCSA not just for base clocks overclocking but also for memory frequencies overclocking.


+1


VCCSA: Starting with the second-generation Core i processors ("Sandy Bridge"), the VTT voltage was renamed to VCCSA, and is called "system agent." It feeds the integrated PCI Express controller, memory controller, and display engine (i.e., the "2D" part of the graphics engine).
VCCIO: Available starting with the second-generation Core i CPUs ("Sandy Bridge"), this voltage is used for feeding all input/output (I/O) pins of the CPU, except memory-related pins. On CPUs that have this voltage, it is also used to feed the thermal control bus (PECI, Platform Environmental Control Interface).

source

*VccSA* - This is the voltage with controls the "System Agent" (new "uncore"). Since the L3 cache has been moved to the core, the only thing left on the System Agent that concerns us as overclockers is the integrated memory controller (IMC). It's already been discovered that the IMC on Sandy Bridge is quite robust, and usually won't need any additional voltage for speeds up to DDR3-2000 and possibly even higher. I found I needed about 1.15V for maximum potential when running very fast memory speeds. This may also be important with very high density DIMMs or when fully populating the DIMM slots on your motherboard. At this time, I would caution using any more than 1.2V on the VccSA.

*VccIO* - This is the voltage which controls the SA's IO. Many users and manufacturers are taking issue with my claims of the SA voltage being most important for IMC overclocking. While I cannot explain my personal results, they definitely go against the majority. With that being said, the motherboard manufacturers and many uses will tell you to only adjust the VccIO, and leave the VccSA alone&#8230;I'm recommending you try both, and see which works better for your CPU. My testing was difinitively VccSA reliant. At this time, I would caution using any more than 1.2V on the VccIO.

source

VCCSA
This has shown in internal testing not to improve overclocking, yet may still maintain the same level of stability while being lowered from its default value in order to keep the CPU cooler.
VCCIO
The adjustment of this voltage may help to slightly improve the overclocking capability of the IMC / DRAM, even though the default voltage is enough to run at a 2133MHz DRAM frequency. A 1.20v setting is more than adequate to maximize Memory overclocks in most cases.

*VCCSA/VCCIO* - On previous platforms (P55/X58) we had the Uncore to describe any part of the CPU that wasn't the actual core, so this would be the memory controller, PCIe and so on, Sandy Bridge CPUs have a different architecture, and with that comes a whole new bucket load of acronyms, VCCSA is the voltage for the "System Agent", which in a nutshell, is the Sandy Bridge equivalent of Uncore. VCCIO is the I/O voltage for the memory controller. Adjusting the VCCSA and VCCIO voltages can help at higher clocks with higher memory speeds and tighter timings, more on this later.

source

VCCSA
This has shown in internal testing not to improve overclocking, yet may still maintain the same level of stability while being lowered from its default value in order to keep the CPU cooler.
VCCIO
The adjustment of this voltage may help to slightly improve the overclocking capability of the IMC / DRAM, even though the default voltage is enough to run at a 2133MHz DRAM frequency. A 1.20v setting is more than adequate to maximize Memory overclocks in most cases

souce

*VCC/VCCIO/CPUIO*

It's CPU Input/Output (IO voltage terminals. This voltage work just like QPI/VVT/IMC and the default voltage is
1.05v but it needs to keep within 1.10 - 1.20v when your overclock beyond 4GHz, increasing this voltage also help
to *improve the stability* when 4 memory DIMMs occupied and its max speed (2133MHz). This high voltage
doesn't seem to affect overclocking.

*VCCSA*
This is "System Agent" voltage inside the CPU. Since Sandy Bridge's IMC (Integarated Memrory Controller) and
PCI-E controller are very robust therefore you don't really need high voltage to run your DDR3 at highest speeds.
The default voltage is 0.95v and it is not important to have it above the default value. It's best to keep it at default.

source

ult value. It's best to keep i

*VCCIO:* more commonly known at QPI/VTT voltage, this is the VTT voltage. Formally known as Processor Power for I/O it is the voltage for the integrated memory controller as well as the PCI-E controller. While Intel's Maximum is 1.05 +/- 3% = 1.08v, you can go higher, much higher. I would recommend staying below 1.2v for 24/7 use, but depending on the quality of the IMC on your chip, I have seen 2133 MHz done on as little at 1.1v. I used 1.12v for overclocking my Dominator 1600 MHz to 1866 MHz, and it did it without any problems. Do realize that this voltage contributes heat as well to the whole thermal package.

*VCCSA:* More commonly known as System Agent Voltage. Intel's maximum System Agent Voltage (Vccsa) is 0.971v and minimum is 0.879v. Stock is 0.925v. System Agent Voltage should NOT be touched, it is supposed to be a fixed voltage, and it powers many things that the VCC does not power. One of the most important is the Power Control Unit (PCU) which controls internal power allocation of the processor. This voltage is to be generated by a separate VRM than used for SVID. So on the P67A-UD7 this voltage is generated by a two phase buck analogue PWM, with 4 phases, this voltage and the VTT (Vccio) come from the same VRM(not surprisingly voltage read points are right next to each other as well).

source

Lots of conflicting statements here bottom line over and over agin bumping vcccio memory controller or not fixes memory compatibilty issues either at high speed or 4x dimm slot population.


----------



## error-id10t

I've read these last few pages with interest to see if someone can find a solution.

Now, neither of my Z68-V Pro or Z77-V boards have had both of these options, only VCCSA. I keep VCCSA at auto (0.925v) for my 2133Mhz CAS9 RAM but it only populates 2 DIMMs - XMP1 makes it a 2134Mhz while XMP2 makes it a 2132Mhz and both profiles set the 'memory controller' to 1.05v automagically.

When I download AIDA extreme trial, it shows my RAM volts at 1.625v (it's set to 1.65v in BIOS by the XMP profile) and VCCIO at 1.05V which appears to match the 'memory controller' volts value - however, if I up the VCCSA manually in BIOS then VCCIO in AIDA has gone up too. But because I cannot find VCCSA value in AIDA (?) I can't tell if it's 1:1.

Neither of these volts change under Prime Blend load or under idling.

Not a lot of helpful information, just figured I'd post what I see.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Do either of you have the ability to ADJUST VCCSA in your bios?
> I know I lost that ability when updating from the original bios release on z68 and moving from p67 to z68.
> It's my understanding it has been removed from most bios (asus at least).
> In an effort to help you understand what's happening all I know for sure it what I have seen happen on my own systems. I know vccsa adjust dynamically. For example at default setting/stock clocks either load or idle my vccsa voltage hovers around .0925 (the default). When I take the same system and set to run a 4.6 overclock it hovers at 1.111vccsa. I conclude it dynamically adjust. In an effort to understand why I had to tinker because there is no setting in my bios to effect a change of this parameter. After much consternation I know that adjusting the vccio has an effect on raising the SA voltage. Although electrically the *vccio effects the i/o range of the CPU pins it does not effect memory pins* which one would assume is the IMC. In there lies the source of confusion. Taken logically it would appear counter productive then to adjust the vccio to improve memory compatibility since it doesn't effect the memory pins however adjusting it directly effects the dynamics of the SA voltage which is in part the IMC which is why it's effective. I know it's complicated and I don't make it any easier by my inability to articulate it properly but do try to digest what I'm suggesting here. This explains why most feel the vccio is the IMC voltage when in actuality it is not. It also explains why adjusting vccsa, when available, has an adverse effect. It needs to be controlled by the Proc and hard setting it when it needs to be dynamic is overly complicated or impossible to nail down at best.
> 
> FYI: I use Adia64 (paid ver) to monitor vccsa and you can check for yourself the dynamic nature of the vccsa and the effects adjusting vccio has on it. I'm not trying to say vccio is the be all to end all in terms of fixing memory issues as it's not clear to me that other bios parameters don't have similar effects to the dynamic vccsa voltage not the least of which maybe PLL voltage adjustments and LLC settings all may play a role in someway. I'd have to do more testing to understand completely. What I do know is I used stock clocks vs overclocked settings as evidence so the latter involved changing PLL and LLC but the vccio adjustment was only needed when running all four dimm slots populated at memory & cpu overclocked speeds. Otherwise the auto setting for vccio and vccsa is adequate for most cpu overclocks and 2x dimm slot overclocked memory.
> 
> In any case, as always, I hope this helps!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> +1
> 
> VCCSA: Starting with the second-generation Core i processors ("Sandy Bridge"), the VTT voltage was renamed to VCCSA, and is called "system agent." It feeds the integrated PCI Express controller, memory controller, and display engine (i.e., the "2D" part of the graphics engine).
> VCCIO: Available starting with the second-generation Core i CPUs ("Sandy Bridge"), this voltage is used for feeding all input/output (I/O) pins of the CPU, except memory-related pins. On CPUs that have this voltage, it is also used to feed the thermal control bus (PECI, Platform Environmental Control Interface).
> source
> 
> *VccSA* - This is the voltage with controls the "System Agent" (new "uncore"). Since the L3 cache has been moved to the core, the only thing left on the System Agent that concerns us as overclockers is the integrated memory controller (IMC). It's already been discovered that the IMC on Sandy Bridge is quite robust, and usually won't need any additional voltage for speeds up to DDR3-2000 and possibly even higher. I found I needed about 1.15V for maximum potential when running very fast memory speeds. This may also be important with very high density DIMMs or when fully populating the DIMM slots on your motherboard. At this time, I would caution using any more than 1.2V on the VccSA.
> *VccIO* - This is the voltage which controls the SA's IO. Many users and manufacturers are taking issue with my claims of the SA voltage being most important for IMC overclocking. While I cannot explain my personal results, they definitely go against the majority. With that being said, the motherboard manufacturers and many uses will tell you to only adjust the VccIO, and leave the VccSA alone&#8230;I'm recommending you try both, and see which works better for your CPU. My testing was difinitively VccSA reliant. At this time, I would caution using any more than 1.2V on the VccIO.
> 
> source
> 
> VCCSA
> 
> This has shown in internal testing not to improve overclocking, yet may still maintain the same level of stability while being lowered from its default value in order to keep the CPU cooler.
> 
> VCCIO
> 
> The adjustment of this voltage may help to slightly improve the overclocking capability of the IMC / DRAM, even though the default voltage is enough to run at a 2133MHz DRAM frequency. A 1.20v setting is more than adequate to maximize Memory overclocks in most cases.
> 
> *VCCSA/VCCIO* - On previous platforms (P55/X58) we had the Uncore to describe any part of the CPU that wasn't the actual core, so this would be the memory controller, PCIe and so on, Sandy Bridge CPUs have a different architecture, and with that comes a whole new bucket load of acronyms, VCCSA is the voltage for the "System Agent", which in a nutshell, is the Sandy Bridge equivalent of Uncore. VCCIO is the I/O voltage for the memory controller. Adjusting the VCCSA and VCCIO voltages can help at higher clocks with higher memory speeds and tighter timings, more on this later.
> 
> source
> 
> VCCSA
> 
> This has shown in internal testing not to improve overclocking, yet may still maintain the same level of stability while being lowered from its default value in order to keep the CPU cooler.
> 
> VCCIO
> 
> The adjustment of this voltage may help to slightly improve the overclocking capability of the IMC / DRAM, even though the default voltage is enough to run at a 2133MHz DRAM frequency. A 1.20v setting is more than adequate to maximize Memory overclocks in most cases
> 
> souce
> 
> *VCC/VCCIO/CPUIO*
> It's CPU Input/Output (IO voltage terminals. This voltage work just like QPI/VVT/IMC and the default voltage is
> 
> 1.05v but it needs to keep within 1.10 - 1.20v when your overclock beyond 4GHz, increasing this voltage also help
> 
> to *improve the stability* when 4 memory DIMMs occupied and its max speed (2133MHz). This high voltage
> 
> doesn't seem to affect overclocking.
> 
> *VCCSA*
> 
> This is "System Agent" voltage inside the CPU. Since Sandy Bridge's IMC (Integarated Memrory Controller) and
> 
> PCI-E controller are very robust therefore you don't really need high voltage to run your DDR3 at highest speeds.
> 
> The default voltage is 0.95v and it is not important to have it above the default value. It's best to keep it at default.
> 
> source
> ult value. It's best to keep i
> *VCCIO:* more commonly known at QPI/VTT voltage, this is the VTT voltage. Formally known as Processor Power for I/O it is the voltage for the integrated memory controller as well as the PCI-E controller. While Intel's Maximum is 1.05 +/- 3% = 1.08v, you can go higher, much higher. I would recommend staying below 1.2v for 24/7 use, but depending on the quality of the IMC on your chip, I have seen 2133 MHz done on as little at 1.1v. I used 1.12v for overclocking my Dominator 1600 MHz to 1866 MHz, and it did it without any problems. Do realize that this voltage contributes heat as well to the whole thermal package.
> 
> *VCCSA:* More commonly known as System Agent Voltage. Intel's maximum System Agent Voltage (Vccsa) is 0.971v and minimum is 0.879v. Stock is 0.925v. System Agent Voltage should NOT be touched, it is supposed to be a fixed voltage, and it powers many things that the VCC does not power. One of the most important is the Power Control Unit (PCU) which controls internal power allocation of the processor. This voltage is to be generated by a separate VRM than used for SVID. So on the P67A-UD7 this voltage is generated by a two phase buck analogue PWM, with 4 phases, this voltage and the VTT (Vccio) come from the same VRM(not surprisingly voltage read points are right next to each other as well).
> 
> source
> 
> Lots of conflicting statements here bottom line over and over agin bumping vcccio memory controller or not fixes memory compatibilty issues either at high speed or 4x dimm slot population.


This is exactly the confusion I'm talking about.

I have the initial BIOS release on my board and I only have VCCIO as an option, nowhere can I find VCCSA. I read that updating the BIOS would show that VCCSA setting.

When looking for the highest overclock for the RAM, is it safe to just fix VCCIO to 1.2V, VDIMM to 1.7V, and VCORE to 1.4V (@45x CPU multi)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> I've read these last few pages with interest to see if someone can find a solution.
> 
> Now, neither of my Z68-V Pro or Z77-V boards have had both of these options, only VCCSA. I keep VCCSA at auto (0.925v) for my 2133Mhz CAS9 RAM but it only populates 2 DIMMs - XMP1 makes it a 2134Mhz while XMP2 makes it a 2132Mhz and both profiles set the 'memory controller' to 1.05v automagically.
> 
> When I download AIDA extreme trial, it shows my RAM volts at 1.625v (it's set to 1.65v in BIOS by the XMP profile) and VCCIO at 1.05V which appears to match the 'memory controller' volts value - however, if I up the VCCSA manually in BIOS then VCCIO in AIDA has gone up too. But because I cannot find VCCSA value in AIDA (?) I can't tell if it's 1:1.
> 
> Neither of these volts change under Prime Blend load or under idling.
> 
> Not a lot of helpful information, just figured I'd post what I see.


Hmmm, interesting that you only have VCCSA as an option.


----------



## Geezerman

OK, I have a question on a Asus P8z68-V Pro/Gen3 , i7-2600K, and this ram:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231311

I'm using slots A2 and B2. I got the ram back from Gskill for a RMA today. When installing one stick, it auto overclocks the ram to 1666. When I installed the 2nd stick, it would not boot . I figured the bios was setting the speed to 1666 and the ram or mobo could not handle it with 2 sticks. The mem light was flashing. I did the hold mem button down to have the bios reset the parameters, figuring it would set the speed lower for 2 sticks. but no go. I had to uninstall 1 stick, clear cmos, and manually set the speed to 1333, then insert the 2nd stick. It's now running OK at 1333.

Is this normal? I don't really care about overclocking this rig, but is something fishy with the ram slots here?

forgot to mention that AI overclock tuner was set to auto, so it should load the optimal settings, which for 1 stick was 1666, but for 2 is 1333 and selecting the XMP option is not available with this ram and board, according to Gskill, this ram is : "XMP Ready for 3rd Generation Intel Core Processors and Z77 platform"..


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> This is exactly the confusion I'm talking about..


When there is a confusion, I would refer to official documentation where in this case is the Intel's datasheet.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> When there is a confusion, I would refer to official documentation where in this case is the Intel's datasheet.


Yeah but owcraftsman already explained it very well, didn't he?


----------



## kizwan

Yes owcraftsman explained it very well. You probably missed my previous post here where I added another prove in a form of a screenshot of the Intel datasheet for 2nd generation Intel core processor. It should clear things up. Some guides based on (overclocker) experience & old information, that's where lies the confusion. What I'm trying to say is always go to the source to get correct information.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yes owcraftsman explained it very well. You probably missed my previous post here where I added another prove in a form of a screenshot of the Intel datasheet for 2nd generation Intel core processor. It should clear things up. Some guides based on (overclocker) experience & old information, that's where lies the confusion. What I'm trying to say is always go to the source to get correct information.


Oh ok. Got that, thanks for the tip mate


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> This is exactly the confusion I'm talking about.
> 
> I have the initial BIOS release on my board and I only have VCCIO as an option, nowhere can I find VCCSA. I read that updating the BIOS would show that VCCSA setting.
> 
> When looking for the highest overclock for the RAM, is it safe to just fix VCCIO to 1.2V, VDIMM to 1.7V, and VCORE to 1.4V (@45x CPU multi)?
> Hmmm, interesting that you only have VCCSA as an option.


BUMP!


----------



## snake eyes

Im having a issue with a system I just built.
here are the specs
Intel i7 3770
Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3
Kingston KHZ16C10B1RK2/ 16X Blue 8Gx2 Red
CM 420w Silent pro M2

the issue is one that a few other people have where the system will
start up
Fans spin up (CPU and System fan)
red cpu LED goes on 1 sec then off
red mem LED goes on one sec then off
cpu LED on then whole system off
then loops again
Nothing at all on screen or no beeps during this whole process.

I havent done anything yet... i.e. reset BIOS or CMOS or update BIOS as i dont have the means at hand... i will probably need to take it back to supplier for that.

this cycle happens even if I unplug EVERYTHING except the ram. if i remove the ram the system stays on, but still no beep or anything showing on screen.


----------



## General121

That sounds like a bad RAM stick, even though the system passed it. Try each stick 1 by 1, in the same slot every time, and if all 4 fail, also try them all in a different slot to see if that slot is dead.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snake eyes*
> 
> Im having a issue with a system I just built.
> here are the specs
> Intel i7 3770
> Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3
> Kingston KHZ16C10B1RK2/ 16X Blue 8Gx2 Red
> CM 420w Silent pro M2
> 
> the issue is one that a few other people have where the system will
> start up
> Fans spin up (CPU and System fan)
> red cpu LED goes on 1 sec then off
> red mem LED goes on one sec then off
> cpu LED on then whole system off
> then loops again
> Nothing at all on screen or no beeps during this whole process.
> 
> I havent done anything yet... i.e. reset BIOS or CMOS or update BIOS as i dont have the means at hand... i will probably need to take it back to supplier for that.
> 
> this cycle happens even if I unplug EVERYTHING except the ram. if i remove the ram the system stays on, but still no beep or anything showing on screen.


it's because you have an IB CPU on a Z68 board,
odds are you needed to update the mobo BIOS first (with a SB chip) then install the IB chip (3770).
for it to run properly.


----------



## snake eyes

I tried both RAM DIMMs in each slot individually... still the same issue.

alot of other threads/forums suggest the same thing... will see tomorrow if I can butcher one of the other machines, otherwise it needs to go back to suppliers and they must do it.


----------



## HaZarD SFD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> it's because you have an IB CPU on a Z68 board,
> odds are you needed to update the mobo BIOS first (with a SB chip) then install the IB chip (3770).
> for it to run properly.


100% the right answer. Also don't fray from dimm slots being bad on these boards.

I have run 4.2GHz for a year 24/7


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snake eyes*
> 
> I tried both RAM DIMMs in each slot individually... still the same issue.
> 
> alot of other threads/forums suggest the same thing... will see tomorrow if I can butcher one of the other machines, otherwise it needs to go back to suppliers and they must do it.


just get a SB chip and update the BIOS like I said earlier..


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

I'm about to FLASH my bios I got the bios from :

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8Z68%20DELUXE&os=30

But My question is about flashing bios from the BIOS it self using a USB stick like here:






But what is going to happen with the ssd cuz it will be in AHCI and I read that it should be in RAID mode or something... I dont want to full install windows 7 again







. If it could be a safe step by step I will be glad


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster*
> 
> I'm about to FLASH my bios I got the bios from :
> 
> http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8Z68%20DELUXE&os=30
> 
> But My question is about flashing bios from the BIOS it self using a USB stick like here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what is going to happen with the ssd cuz it will be in AHCI and I read that it should be in RAID mode or something... I dont want to full install windows 7 again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If it could be a safe step by step I will be glad


Why would it need to be in RAID mode? Just flash it. After flashing, go right back into the BIOS and make sure it's still in AHCI mode. If it's not, then switch it. If you need it to be in RAID mode, then make sure it's still in RAID mode before going back into Windows.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

Bios Flashed 100% success







ty for the advises, and tips before doing this task







I updated to the last one and looks cool!


----------



## Nagash

Hello all OCers

Last week I updated my windows with windows update, the day after when I was gonna turn the system on, it hangs on "starting windows" and the mouse and keyboard hangs aswell( the numlock is glowing even tho I turn it off)

so I thought maybe windows update made my system unstable so I try to load with fail-safe mode but it just hangs on classpnp.sys on all 3 different fail-safe modes.

By this time I thought the windows itself is corrupt so I try re installing, it load the files but then the screen turn black. I tried in my other computer and it works fine, By the time it goes black my mouse and keyboard just hangs aswell.

I have had this computer for a year now and this is my first problem.

I have tried all the USB ports, if I use USB3.0 the mouse and keyboard just turns off instead of hanging
I have tried all the different Sata ports
I have tried a different HDD
I have tried a different GPU
I have tried with 1 mem stick instead of both.
I have also tried clearing CMOS but problem remains.

Got the latest BIOS.

Please help me with this issue,

EDIT:

Forgot the speccs:

Asus P8Z68-V PRO GEN3
Intel i5 2500k
Asus geforce 560


----------



## davidm71

Sounds like either you got corruption from unstable memory or something or a virus.


----------



## Nagash

Well a virus before I even get into windows? sounds wierd?

Im about to try a different PSU can allso try with a different memory and see if it works.

EDIT:
Tried with a different PSU but problem remains

Tried with a different memory like post above suggested but problem remains.

So now I got 2 components left to check that is CPU and the motherboard.

So can it be the CPU that makes these issues? feels more like the motherboard but im no expert. Please assist me with this matter.

best regards


----------



## davidm71

Something like that happened to me once few years back. Windows update messed up probably because silently my overclock was not stable. Win update became corrupted and could not install updates or shut down cleanly. Only option was to reinstall fresh.


----------



## Nagash

Sad to hear it happen to you aswell. But as I stated in my first post, reinstall dosnt work, the screen is black for hours and keyboard and mouse hangs.

And since Ive tried different components its either the CPU or the motherboard itself. I havent removed the CPU from the motherboard since I placed it, so bent cpu pins shouldnt be the issue either.

Guess I have to buy a new motherboard =S


----------



## TwoCables

I don't understand. How can this be a hardware issue if it was caused by Windows Update?

Have you formatted and started over? Is that how you reinstalled Windows, by formatting and starting over?


----------



## davidm71

Can you at least run the windows installer? Making sure boot order in bios is cd drive before hard drive, if you can't get into the windows installer then you have a hardware problem maybe. Please elaborate.


----------



## kizwan

Nagash already did that. It failed too when trying to boot with the installer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagash*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all OCers
> 
> Last week I updated my windows with windows update, the day after when I was gonna turn the system on, it hangs on "starting windows" and the mouse and keyboard hangs aswell( the numlock is glowing even tho I turn it off)
> 
> so I thought maybe windows update made my system unstable so I try to load with fail-safe mode but it just hangs on classpnp.sys on all 3 different fail-safe modes.
> 
> 
> 
> *By this time I thought the windows itself is corrupt so I try re installing, it load the files but then the screen turn black. I tried in my other computer and it works fine, By the time it goes black my mouse and keyboard just hangs aswell.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have had this computer for a year now and this is my first problem.
> 
> I have tried all the USB ports, if I use USB3.0 the mouse and keyboard just turns off instead of hanging
> I have tried all the different Sata ports
> I have tried a different HDD
> I have tried a different GPU
> I have tried with 1 mem stick instead of both.
> I have also tried clearing CMOS but problem remains.
> 
> Got the latest BIOS.
> 
> Please help me with this issue,
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Forgot the speccs:
> 
> Asus P8Z68-V PRO GEN3
> Intel i5 2500k
> Asus geforce 560


----------



## Nagash

Okey will try to explain again.

Yes its wierd, but it has to be a hardware issue since I CANT reinstall windows, after the text "windows is loading files" you should get a screen where you choose your language you want to install, this screen never appears, the screen remains black. if I have my mouse and keyboard in USB3.0 the LED's stop glowing on the mouse and keyboard, If I have them in USB2.0 they glow but I cant turn off numlock or turn on ex. Caps.

Yes this happen after I did a windows update, I did move the computer to my other room, but I have reconnected everything to make sure it wasnt a loose cable or something.

It might be so that windows update dosent have anything to do with this, might just be a coincident. I wanted to mention it since it was the last thing I did before I turned it off, and before I did that everything worked fine.

And no its not a bad media or anything, tried the usb on my other computer and it can reinstall windows fine and the screen appears where you choose your language you want to install.

So either its the motherboard or the CPU, and I dont have spare parts to try these out, so wanted some opinions if its the motherboard or the CPU thats the issue.

EDIT:

I can see the CPU in the bios and everything looks fine, its at the normal clock speed and that, have heard that if you have CPU problems they might show up as Unknown CPU type or give you invalid values of the the clock, tho this might be older issues only.


----------



## Brizzol

i have a Asus p8p67 deluxe, can i join good sirs?


----------



## davidm71

Try a new hard drive? Is this a ssd drive? Regular? Try a new one.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brizzol*
> 
> i have a Asus p8p67 deluxe, can i join good sirs?


welcome aboard mate..


----------



## Nagash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Try a new hard drive? Is this a ssd drive? Regular? Try a new one.


Like before if you read my first post you see that ive already testet with a new harddrive. When I write I only got 2 components left to check I really mean Ive checked the others aswell.

Tried both ssd and a normal one, tried a friends ssd, same issues.

Its either the motherboard or CPU, NOTHING ELSE, all other components works in my other computer so please leave those and focus on either CPU or the motherboard.

Best regards


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagash*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Try a new hard drive? Is this a ssd drive? Regular? Try a new one.
> 
> 
> 
> Like before if you read my first post you see that ive already testet with a new harddrive. When I write I only got 2 components left to check I really mean Ive checked the others aswell.
> 
> Tried both ssd and a normal one, tried a friends ssd, same issues.
> 
> Its either the motherboard or CPU, NOTHING ELSE, all other components works in my other computer so please leave those and focus on either CPU or the motherboard.
> 
> Best regards
Click to expand...

Have you tried a different PSU I know you want to focus but I didn't see it mentioned and it's commonly overlooked. If you are sure it's CPU and or mobo and haven't checked the PSU. Take you proc and PSU to a local PC repair shop hopefully one you already have a relationship with but if not it's time to do so. Typically if you do business with them (buy stuff) they'll check things for free otherwise a small fee would be in order either way all that will be left if they are fine is to RMA the mobo. GL


----------



## Nagash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Have you tried a different PSU I know you want to focus but I didn't see it mentioned and it's commonly overlooked. If you are sure it's CPU and or mobo and haven't checked the PSU. Take you proc and PSU to a local PC repair shop hopefully one you already have a relationship with but if not it's time to do so. Typically if you do business with them (buy stuff) they'll check things for free otherwise a small fee would be in order either way all that will be left if they are fine is to RMA the mobo. GL


if you go back one page you see Ive posted that ive tried with a different PSU. But Ty anyway.


----------



## TwoCables

Nagash, your patience impresses me.


----------



## Nagash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Nagash, your patience impresses me.


Yeah I even impress myself







. It looks like I will go into the city tomorrow to buy a new motherboard if no heroes have awakened by then and help me shed some light on this black screen









Anyhow wanna thanks those who have tried so far =D

best regards


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagash*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Nagash, your patience impresses me.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I even impress myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It looks like I will go into the city tomorrow to buy a new motherboard if no heroes have awakened by then and help me shed some light on this black screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow wanna thanks those who have tried so far =D
> 
> best regards
Click to expand...

do you have this unit overclocked.?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagash*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Nagash, your patience impresses me.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I even impress myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It looks like I will go into the city tomorrow to buy a new motherboard if no heroes have awakened by then and help me shed some light on this black screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow wanna thanks those who have tried so far =D
> 
> best regards
Click to expand...

If you have no patients you picked the wrong hobby.

What monitor & connection type?

Have you tried different cable and or connection type to the monitor.? or even a different monitor.

pardon me if I missed that as well just ignore me and I'll go away lol


----------



## Nagash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> do you have this unit overclocked.?


No I dont, had it once, but cleared CMOS like half a year ago and didnt reapply the OC, was also a very very minor one









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If you have no patients you picked the wrong hobby.
> What monitor & connection type?
> Have you tried different cable and or connection type to the monitor.? or even a different monitor.
> pardon me if I missed that as well just ignore me and I'll go away lol


Can tell you patients I got







well the only thing I typed was that I have tried a different GPU, but also tried a different monitor and cable, same problem.

Guess ppl are running out of ideas, I did a long time ago :S


----------



## malmental

by default from all your troubleshooting it has to be the mobo, you'd think anyways...


----------



## Nagash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> by default from all your troubleshooting it has to be the mobo, you'd think anyways...


Ya guess so aswell, so anyone that can recommend another mobo?

ASUS P8Z77-V LX2 - ATX / Z77 maybe?

Anyhow wanna thank everyone that have helped me so far


----------



## davidm71

Stupid question but was wondering if you have tried a CMOS bios reset and taking out bios battery?


----------



## Nagash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Stupid question but was wondering if you have tried a CMOS bios reset and taking out bios battery?


Wrote it my first post I cleared the CMOS, and yes that was by removing the battery, thank you for your ideas and patience


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagash*
> 
> Wrote it my first post I cleared the CMOS, and yes that was by removing the battery, thank you for your ideas and patience


Sorry. Using a smart phone to make replies. Sounds like a bad motherboard as you've tried every thing. Interesting that when installing OSX onto that motherboard those symptoms are commonplace and dependent on bios settings and incompatible pci-e devices installed. Good luck.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagash*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> by default from all your troubleshooting it has to be the mobo, you'd think anyways...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya guess so aswell, so anyone that can recommend another mobo?
> 
> ASUS P8Z77-V LX2 - ATX / Z77 maybe?
> 
> Anyhow wanna thank everyone that have helped me so far
Click to expand...

Okay my last attempt then. Have you tried on board graphics? I know this is not your end game nor should it be with a discrete GPU in hand that works well in other systems but this would most certainly point to a defective mobo if that works.


----------



## Nagash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Okay my last attempt then. Have you tried on board graphics? I know this is not your end game nor should it be with a discrete GPU in hand that works well in other systems but this would most certainly point to a defective mobo if that works.


Well since Ive tried a different GPU card it should rule out the GPU, but sure can try the onboard graphics and see what happens


----------



## Nagash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Okay my last attempt then. Have you tried on board graphics? I know this is not your end game nor should it be with a discrete GPU in hand that works well in other systems but this would most certainly point to a defective mobo if that works.


Tried the onboard GPU, with the same results =(

I guess the mobo is dead. Gonna buy a new one today, ASUS P8Z77-V LX2 seems nice =)


----------



## am dew1

I currently have 16 GB (4x4) of Kingston HyperX Blue DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) that I've got running at 800 MHz CL9 9-9-9-27 at 1.65Von my P8Z68-VPro Gen3 board with I5-2500K. Will I be wasting my money if I were to replace them with these which Newegg has on sale right now for USD$80?

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900), which are rated at CL9 9-10-9-28 at 1.5V.

I am not a gamer but I do some video editing and video encoding. And also, if it makes any difference, I am OC'd to 4.5 with the I5-2500K

Thanks!


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I currently have 16 GB (4x4) of Kingston HyperX Blue DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) that I've got running at 800 MHz CL9 9-9-9-27 at 1.65Von my P8Z68-VPro Gen3 board with I5-2500K. Will I be wasting my money if I were to replace them with these which Newegg has on sale right now for USD$80?
> 
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900), which are rated at CL9 9-10-9-28 at 1.5V.


No waste, if you can sell your old 16GB for 75$. Yes otherwise









MaX.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I currently have 16 GB (4x4) of Kingston HyperX Blue DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) that I've got running at 800 MHz CL9 9-9-9-27 at 1.65Von my P8Z68-VPro Gen3 board with I5-2500K. Will I be wasting my money if I were to replace them with these which Newegg has on sale right now for USD$80?
> 
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900), which are rated at CL9 9-10-9-28 at 1.5V.
> 
> I am not a gamer but I do some video editing and video encoding. And also, if it makes any difference, I am OC'd to 4.5 with the I5-2500K
> 
> Thanks!


current RAM can't run @ 1.5V.?


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> current RAM can't run @ 1.5V.?


It can, yes...it's just rated at 1.65, and some say that is perfectly OK so I just run it at that. Should I lower it to 1.5, you think?


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> No waste, if you can sell your old 16GB for 75$. Yes otherwise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MaX.










I guess I had that coming. Strictly from a performance standpoint, what is your opinion?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> current RAM can't run @ 1.5V.?
> 
> 
> 
> It can, yes...it's just rated at 1.65, and some say that is perfectly OK so I just run it at that. Should I lower it to 1.5, you think?
Click to expand...

I would but that's just me........ seriously.
but if going to run it @ 1600MHz then see if it's stable at 1.5V, it might or might not be.
why I ask.? just being techie.

but back to the main point your already @ 1600 and that's really all you need.
yes my next kit will be 1866MHz but who knows when I'll get there, I'm on 1600 right now.
as stated and I have thought about the same path, sell your current set and for minimal expense upgrade.
if not then just wait for a reason.

my


----------



## TwoCables

1.65V is still safe. Yes, it's just about the highest safe voltage that should be used 24/7, but it's still safe.

I'm just bringing forward what I've learned during my time here on OCN.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagash*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Okay my last attempt then. Have you tried on board graphics? I know this is not your end game nor should it be with a discrete GPU in hand that works well in other systems but this would most certainly point to a defective mobo if that works.
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the onboard GPU, with the same results =(
> 
> I guess the mobo is dead. Gonna buy a new one today, ASUS P8Z77-V LX2 seems nice =)
Click to expand...

Sorry that didn't help but I'd like to hear back from you here if a mobo fixes the problem. Somehow, call it a gut feeling but me thinks it's something else.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> 1.65V is still safe. Yes, it's just about the highest safe voltage that should be used 24/7, but it's still safe.
> 
> I'm just bringing forward what I've learned during my time here on OCN.


I agree it runs and I know a few that do but SB really prefers or calls for 1.5v and I stick to that and maybe I'll try 1.35v next.
I basically was saying lower it just out of curiosity and then maybe see how high you can clock it on the 1.5v.
just the OCN in me is all, not suggesting that he is damaging his unit..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I agree it runs and I know a few that do but SB really prefers or calls for 1.5v and I stick to that and maybe I'll try 1.35v next.
> I basically was saying lower it just out of curiosity and then maybe see how high you can clock it on the 1.5v.
> just the OCN in me is all, not suggesting that he is damaging his unit..


During my time on here, I've learned that 1.65V is still safe. It's more of a recommended maximum, but it's still safe. That's all I remember though.


----------



## kizwan

Even Intel listed DDR3 memory @1.65V in their Compatible Memory for Intel Core i5/i7 processors. That enough to show 1.65V is "healthy".


----------



## Nagash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Sorry that didn't help but I'd like to hear back from you here if a mobo fixes the problem. Somehow, call it a gut feeling but me thinks it's something else.


Sorry to say your gut feeling was wrong









So a new motherboard *solved* the issue!, went for a p8z77.

Im problably gonna contact asus about this and send the old mobo back to them. And maybe they can find the issue. Would be nice to know what happen to the old one.

And once again thank you all for your help.

Over and out

Nagash


----------



## am dew1

Nagash -- Glad to hear you got the situation resolved even though you had to buy a new MB. I admire your patience and methodical approach to troubleshooting the issue.


----------



## malmental

I'm glad to say that I'm one of the few that called the mobo...








regardless, glad to hear your up and running chap.
good gaming to you...


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagash*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Sorry that didn't help but I'd like to hear back from you here if a mobo fixes the problem. Somehow, call it a gut feeling but me thinks it's something else.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to say your gut feeling was wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a new motherboard *solved* the issue!, went for a p8z77.
> 
> Im problably gonna contact asus about this and send the old mobo back to them. And maybe they can find the issue. Would be nice to know what happen to the old one.
> 
> And once again thank you all for your help.
> 
> Over and out
> 
> Nagash
Click to expand...

I'm glad my gut was wrong and you are back in the saddle again and enjoy the Z77. Asus has always been pretty good about RMAs to me. On the personal chat with ya side not so much. GL


----------



## Ellis

Anyone else have issues with sleep mode? It just wakes up by itself after no time at all. Sometimes maybe 10 minutes, other times 10 seconds.


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> I've noticed sometimes when I first powerup my windows 8 machine, it turns on, but I get no display on my monitor (has happened with 2 monitors). I am using the latest beta ATI drivers for my card. The weird thing is, pressing delete i dont even get the bios to appear, just a black/dark monitor screen. I am wondering if repairing the bootloader could fix this? Anyone know how to repair the bootloader? I won't loose any of my data, will I?
> 
> After turning off, turning on the computer a few times, I finally get display and can get into windows 8, but it's annoying.
> 
> MB is an ASUS P8z68V/gen3 latest bios.
> 
> Also, I don't run raid, but run my SSD in AHCI mode.
> When I go to my system tray, it shows intel RST service is not running. Is this normal for AHCI setup?


This is still happening. It will take 2 or 3 cold boots before I can get into Windows. I am wondering if I roll back to a previous bios this will fix it? Only cards I have are my ATI graphics card, and an ASUS XONAR Sound Card.
Suggestions?


----------



## Catscratch

Next time, see if any of these leds stay lit. Normally you should hear beeps but it's worth checking.


----------



## sinnedone

Can anyone here tell me how c1/c3/c6 in bios affect power options in windows?

Every giude i have seen as far as overclocking doesnt go much into details abou these.

Im about to start playing with my overclock again and just want low voltage/cpu speed on idle and full voltage at max cpu.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Can anyone here tell me how c1/c3/c6 in bios affect power options in windows?
> 
> Every giude i have seen as far as overclocking doesnt go much into details abou these.
> 
> Im about to start playing with my overclock again and just want low voltage/cpu speed on idle and full voltage at max cpu.


Then use an Offset core voltage, leave C1E enabled but C3 and C6 disabled. Also leave Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology enabled. This will give you what you are after and leaving C3 and C6 disabled will prevent lock-ups and/or BSODs while your system is either idling or under a very light load. This is the way I do it with no power-saving options 'enabled' in Windows and it works.

I also recommend a Load-Line Calibration setting of either Ultra High or High.


----------



## malmental

and I'm just the opposite, I leave them (C-states) enabled and my LLC is set to medium / - 040 offset.
2500K @ 4.5GHz / 1.296v..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> and I'm just the opposite, I leave them (C-states) enabled and my LLC is set to medium / .- 040 offset.
> 2500K @ 4.5GHz / 1.296v..


Then this must mean that Ultra High is too high of an LLC for an Offset voltage.


----------



## malmental

yes, negative offset. - 0.040

edit:
enabled or auto...


----------



## TwoCables

I know. I missed it originally.

So this must mean that Ultra High is too high for Offset voltages.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> yes, negative offset. - 0.040
> 
> edit:
> enabled or auto...


Enabled or auto what?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> and I'm just the opposite, I leave them (C-states) enabled and my LLC is set to medium / .- 040 offset.
> 
> 2500K @ 4.5GHz / 1.296v..
> 
> 
> 
> Then this must mean that Ultra High is too high of an LLC for an Offset voltage.
Click to expand...

good question..
I wouldn't know, I have it on (LLC5 = Ultra) on my ASRock Z68 board but not my ASUS.
they run entirely differently to me..


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> yes, negative offset. - 0.040
> 
> edit:
> 
> enabled or auto...
> 
> 
> 
> Enabled or auto what?
Click to expand...

C-states


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> good question..
> I wouldn't know, I have it on (LLC5 = Ultra) on my ASRock Z68 board but not my ASUS.
> they run entirely differently to me..


It's also a Z68 vs. P67. Still, it does have a different VRM.

I sure would like to test this out sometime though. I kinda miss having my idle voltage sitting under 1.0V.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> C-states


Oh, ok.

/leapfrog?  lol


----------



## malmental

the overclock settings I am speaking of primarily (C-states with -.040 offset) is my P8P67 WS Rev B3.
just to make sure were on the same page.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> the overclock settings I am speaking of primarily (C-states with -.040 offset) is my P8P67 WS Rev B3.
> just to make sure were on the same page.


I assumed that because this is the P8P67/P8Z68 series owners club. 

Thank you for making sure.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> good question..
> 
> I wouldn't know, I have it on (LLC5 = Ultra) on my ASRock Z68 board but not my ASUS.
> 
> they run entirely differently to me..
> 
> 
> 
> It's also a Z68 vs. P67. Still, it does have a different VRM.
> 
> I sure would like to test this out sometime though. I kinda miss having my idle voltage sitting under 1.0V.
Click to expand...

idle temps are sick.... I was using a TX3 with duals 92mm fans temporarily but now have a H620.
with case temps showing 22C and AS5 thermal paste I idle around 26-28C (package) and idle voltage is like 0.960v.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> idle temps are sick.... I was using a TX3 with duals 92mm fans temporarily but now have a H620.
> with case temps showing 22C and AS5 thermal paste I idle around 26-28C (package) and idle voltage is like 0.960v.


Well, my idle voltages are just a hair above 1.0V. It's just that I miss seeing that 0 in front of the decimal. hehe I started out with C3 and C6 on Auto but I had to disable them because I had a couple of lock-ups while idling.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Then use an Offset core voltage, leave C1E enabled but C3 and C6 disabled. Also leave Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology enabled. This will give you what you are after and leaving C3 and C6 disabled will prevent lock-ups and/or BSODs while your system is either idling or under a very light load. This is the way I do it with no power-saving options 'enabled' in Windows and it works.
> 
> I also recommend a Load-Line Calibration setting of either Ultra High or High.


Thanks, Gonna have to try that when I get my system back together.

Right now Im using a negative offset with I forget what llc and all c states enabled. Im at 4.2ghz @2.4v on a 2500k and want to see if i can get it stable and cool at 4.5ghz.

Is there anything online that explains what the c states do and how they interact with windows?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> idle temps are sick.... I was using a TX3 with duals 92mm fans temporarily but now have a H620.
> 
> with case temps showing 22C and AS5 thermal paste I idle around 26-28C (package) and idle voltage is like 0.960v.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, my idle voltages are just a hair above 1.0V. It's just that I miss seeing that 0 in front of the decimal. hehe I started out with C3 and C6 on Auto but I had to disable them because I had a couple of lock-ups while idling.
Click to expand...

I know exactly what you mean...









never BSOD. (jinx 1234678910)








as for the lock-ups, I got a few then raised the offset, then I gamed and got one or two, raised offset.
then ran AIDA64 and Prime, all good and (KNOCK ON WOOD)...







.
haven't crashed or any problems 24/7/365..

I also base my 3570K / P8Z77 off the same concept.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Thanks, Gonna have to try that when I get my system back together.
> 
> Right now Im using a negative offset with I forget what llc and all c states enabled. Im at 4.2ghz @2.4v on a 2500k and want to see if i can get it stable and cool at 4.5ghz.
> 
> Is there anything online that explains what the c states do and how they interact with windows?


http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110
Quote:


> Expectations regarding K series overclocking in general and on ASUS P67 motherboardsPrior to the recommendations on overclocking the K series, I am outlining our results to set expectations.
> The results below are based on the range of the CPU turbo multiplier when overclocking.
> Results are representative of 100 D2 CPUs that were binned and tested for stability under load; these results will most likely represent retail CPUs.
> 1. Approximately 50% of CPUs can go up to 4.4~4.5 GHz
> 2. Approximately 40% of CPUs can go up to 4.6~4.7 GHz
> 3. Approximately 10% of CPUs can go up to 4.8~5 GHz (50+ multipliers are about 2% of this group)
> Additionally it is recommended to keep 「C1E」and「EIST」option enabled for the best overclock scaling. This is different than previous Intel overclocking expectations where the best scaling was with disabled power states or power management options.
> Update specific to D2 and retail parts: Jan 11 2001
> As always ASUS strives to be at the forefront of performance and functionality offered by a quality bios. Keeping this in mind ASUS has been actively working in conjunction with Intel to optimize overclocking potential on ASUS P8P67 motherboards and K series CPUs. With the latest bios revisions ( 1000 series ) or 600 series for ROG specific optimizations have been made to the microcode and corresponding tables that relate to D2 and retail parts. These are improvement are in addition to general improvements in all respects. Present with this new build of the UEFI is a new option. This option / value is " Intel PPL Overvoltage" this option furthers multiplier scaling considerably.* In addition due to the increase in scaling more exotic forms of cooling cannot be used and will be needed under certain multiplier ranges and corresponding voltages. The general maximum range for the highest performing dual fan air based heastinks still remains 50x to 52x.
> 
> * Intel PPL Overvoltage ( for increased K series overclocking set to enabled )
> 
> Overall in our ongoing internal tests the maximum frequency now achievable ( under LN2 ) is 5.8GHz. At this time we do not have a compiled database to reference improvements in the overall scaling range or new % of CPUs able to hit 50+ multis. With that noted currently we are seeing generally a minimum of 2 multi to as much as 7 multi increases with this value enabled on applicable D2 and retail parts.
> Example
> A D2 sample with peak multiplier of 44 with PPL option enabled and corresponding voltage applied we have seen results of a stable 50 multiplier now able to post / boot and be held. ( previously without the PLL value the same CPU would failed to compelte a boot with a any multi exceeding 45 )
> In addition to the increase of the multiplier range a "side effect" is additional Vcore needed to compensate for maintained post/boot and stability tests. The new voltage level do not align with standard voltage scaling ( on CPU already able to hit / sustain comparable multipliers.
> Example
> Generally 4.8GHz stability can be achieved at 1.400 - 1.425 Vcore now with PLL enabled D2 parts exceeding their previous max multiplier the increase in voltage would be 1.425 - 1.450.
> It is important to note this option should generally only be used with D2 and retail parts NOT D1 parts. Internally we have partial results to indicate degradation of stability at previously reached multiplier values. Some internal testing has shown on limited samples that some improvement is possible (generally in the range of 1 multi possibly 2 )
> In addition continued testing with the PPL option enabled and D2 or retail parts have shown some benefits to CStates being disabled when approaching, at or exceeding a 50x multiplier. An important note to keep in mind is that disabling CStates can considerably affect HD performance ( especially SATA6G ) Please keep this in mind when going for the highest level overclocks.
> 
> Expectations regarding K series overclocking implementation options on ASUS motherboards - Using Speedstep or Not Using Speedstep
> 
> Quick Note on implementation of K series Turbo Multiplier control -
> While our Digi+ VRM option has extensive adjustments to voltages, multipliers and Bclk (such as .1 increments ex 106.8 or 108.1) one specific difference is noted below.
> With the latest bios revision ASUS motherboards have a high level of flexibility at customizing the efficiency and consistency of the overclock values set in the UEFI.
> It possible to overclock while keeping speedstep enabled and use the offset voltage method for Vcore increase this will provide the overall best in temperature and heatsink performance as well as generally efficiency and extension of the lifespan of the motherboards its components and the CPU. This is due to the Turbo Multiplier working and exucting ramping as Intel intended.
> Example leaving all CStates and Speedstep enabled will allow the CPU to idle down in Vcore and frequency ( 1600MHz ) and ramp up when under load to 4.8GHz when needed.
> Should there be interest in consistently maintain a desired clock frequency users can disable Speedstep and still keep Intel Turbo multiplier overclocking enabled.
> • Please note that overall disabling or adjustments of Speedstep or CStates do not affect overclocking range ( this is different than previous generations when power saving states were advised to be disabled when exceeding 3.8 to 4.0GHz ).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thanks, Gonna have to try that when I get my system back together.
> 
> Right now Im using a negative offset with I forget what llc and all c states enabled. Im at 4.2ghz @2.4v on a 2500k and want to see if i can get it stable and cool at 4.5ghz.
> 
> Is there anything online that explains what the c states do and how they interact with windows?


Use whatever offset needed that gets you the core voltage that keeps your system stable. So, the type of offset you're using (and the exact offset) is really for your information only.

Anyway, just a heads up: 4.5 GHz usually needs roughly 1.348-1.356V (about 1.35V).

I don't know if there's anything explaining C states and how they interact with Windows. I haven't looked that information up because it hasn't become something I need to know yet. I just keep my Windows set so that there's really no power-saving except for turning my monitor off.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Then use an Offset core voltage, leave C1E enabled but C3 and C6 disabled.


Just out of curiosity, what would be the reason(s) for disabling C1E? Seems like having low idle voltages is a good thing. Is it so the CPU is essentially always powered up and ready for top speed immediately?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what would be the reason(s) for disabling C1E? Seems like having low idle voltages is a good thing. Is it so the CPU is essentially always powered up and ready for top speed immediately?


Well, regardless; it's always ready for top speed immediately. These CPUs are very well-made in that respect.

As far as I know, I've only seen one reason for disabling C1E for Sandy or Ivy Bridge: to help with stability if you decide to start adjusting the BCLK. So as long as you leave the BCLK at 100.0 MHz, then you can leave C1E (and EIST) enabled.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thanks, Gonna have to try that when I get my system back together.
> 
> Right now Im using a negative offset with I forget what llc and all c states enabled. Im at 4.2ghz @2.4v on a 2500k and want to see if i can get it stable and cool at 4.5ghz.
> 
> Is there anything online that explains what the c states do and how they interact with windows?


Here are a few links explaining C-states (and other power management features):

http://impact.asu.edu/cse591sp11/Nahelempm.pdf

http://www.anandtech.com/show/2919/4

And the Intel Second Generation datasheet has a good definitive description (pre-Haswell) in the Power Management section:

http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/datasheets/2nd-gen-core-desktop-vol-1-datasheet.pdf


----------



## Catscratch

In general, C1E is for idle, C3 and C6 are for Sleep/Hibernation. If you never use Sleep/Hibernation like me, you can safely disable C3/C6. It's suggested to disable them in Offset mode because many people ran into BSODs when machine is idling or light load(web). However, there was some SSD issues in Offset mode and C3/C6 Disabled, i can't remember specifics.


----------



## GeneO

If you have an SSD and are running Intel IRST (at least on the Intel 6 chipset), having any of the C states enabled (including C1E) enabled can adversely affect your random write performance. I just use EIST and disable all of the C states in BIOS.


----------



## malmental

not running Intel IRST personally on any of my units.


----------



## Grof Luigi

Hi,

I'm wondering why Cpu-Z doesn't show the real voltage, only VID on my P8Z68-V/GEN3 on Windows 7, while on XP (in fact, server 2003) it does. It doesn't start if in its INI file the value "sensors" is 1.

Example:

Sensor=0 -> CpuZ starts
Sensor=1 -> CpuZ hangs

On Server2003 it doesn't care. It's dual boot with latest drivers for the corresponding OS.

I also noticed that MEInfo and MEI Update from the MEI package don't work on Win7 (hang with no response), while work normally on Serv2003. Does Win7 block the sensor interface (direct hardware access)?

GL


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> C3 and C6 are for Sleep/Hibernation. If you never use Sleep/Hibernation like me, you can safely disable C3/C6.


That is incorrect. C3 & C6 is one of the CPU sleep states. It's not for computer sleep/hibernation function. It is useful to bring down power consumption when idling. When CPU core doesn't have job, it will enter one of these states & this help reduced power consumption. For example, when CPU core enter C6 state, voltage is reduced to zero, hence the power consumption also zero.

For locked CPU (not overclockable), C3 & C6 states help CPU enter Turbo Boost. For unlocked CPU, it's useful for low power consumption when idling.


----------



## TwoCables

Alright, well now I have LLC set to Medium, C3 and C6 are enabled, and my Offset is +0.065V - and it used to be Ultra High, C3 and C6 disabled, and offset was +0.005V. My idle voltage is still sitting at just a hair over 1.0V, but it was below 1.0V when I was still increasing my offset up to +0.065V. The first offset I tried is +0.040V, then I went to +0.055V, and then I put it at +0.065V. When I reached +0.065V, my idle voltage became identical to what it was with Ultra High, +0.005V and C3 and C6 disabled.

I'm not sure if I'll keep this, but with the talk of how a lower LLC reduces VRM temps, I just might. I have the exact same idle and load voltages as before.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Alright, well now I have LLC set to Medium, C3 and C6 are enabled, and my Offset is +0.065V - and it used to be Ultra High, C3 and C6 disabled, and offset was +0.005V. My idle voltage is still sitting at just a hair over 1.0V, but it was below 1.0V when I was still increasing my offset up to +0.065V. The first offset I tried is +0.040V, then I went to +0.055V, and then I put it at +0.065V. When I reached +0.065V, my idle voltage became identical to what it was with Ultra High, +0.005V and C3 and C6 disabled.
> 
> I'm not sure if I'll keep this, but with the talk of how a lower LLC reduces VRM temps, I just might. I have the exact same idle and load voltages as before.


How were you able to achieve the same idle voltage for a lower LLC?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How were you able to achieve the same idle voltage for a lower LLC?


Like I said, by increasing the Offset to compensate. First I tried +0.040V, but it was too low. So I randomly tried +0.055V, and that was still too low. So, I randomly (again) chose +0.065V and that just happened to give me the exact same voltages as before with the lower LLC setting.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Like I said, by increasing the Offset to compensate. First I tried +0.040V, but it was too low. So I randomly tried +0.055V, and that was still too low. So, I randomly (again) chose +0.065V and that just happened to give me the exact same voltages as before with the lower LLC setting.


Well, I thought that when you lower LLC (you increase your Offset to compensate for the load voltage) the idle voltage will be higher? At least that's what's explained in the Sandy Bridge Stable Thread.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, I thought that when you lower LLC (you increase your Offset to compensate for the load voltage) the idle voltage will be higher? At least that's what's explained in the Sandy Bridge Stable Thread.


That's correct. Like I said, I did this so that I could experiment with enabling C3 and C6. So, I have C3 and C6 enabled right now. If I disable them, then my idle voltage will be higher than it is now which means that it would be higher than it was before when I had Ultra High, +0.005V, and C3 and C6 disabled.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> That's correct. Like I said, I did this so that I could experiment with enabling C3 and C6. So, I have C3 and C6 enabled right now. If I disable them, then my idle voltage will be higher than it is now which means that it would be higher than it was before when I had Ultra High, +0.005V, and C3 and C6 disabled.


Oh ok, so the C3 and C6 functions were the one who compensated for the idle voltage. Won't it affect SSD performance though?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, I thought that when you lower LLC (you increase your Offset to compensate for the load voltage) the idle voltage will be higher? At least that's what's explained in the Sandy Bridge Stable Thread.
> 
> 
> 
> That's correct. Like I said, I did this so that I could experiment with enabling C3 and C6. So, I have C3 and C6 enabled right now. If I disable them, then my idle voltage will be higher than it is now which means that it would be higher than it was before when I had Ultra High, +0.005V, and C3 and C6 disabled.
Click to expand...

I'd set yours to LLC to HIGH not medium and tweak it from there.
Phase Control: Optimized first then try higher level if needed.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok, so the C3 and C6 functions were the one who compensated for the idle voltage. Won't it affect SSD performance though?


I don't know one way or another. I haven't felt any difference, so I don't know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I'd set yours to LLC to HIGH not medium and tweak it from there.


Why? Am I taking a risk that I don't know about? I'd like to know because this is my baby.

Still, I'm getting precisely the same idle and load voltages I had before.

*Edit:* My phase control is at Extreme. Why Optimized first? I feel I may learn something valuable here. I admit that "Extreme" is beginning to sound like a setting for very big overclocks.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I'd set yours to LLC to HIGH not medium and tweak it from there.


Quote:


> Why? Am I taking a risk that I don't know about? I'd like to know because this is my baby.
> 
> Still, I'm getting precisely the same idle and load voltages I had before.
> 
> *Edit:* My phase control is at Extreme. Why Optimized first? I feel I may learn something valuable here. I admit that "Extreme" is beginning to sound like a setting for very big overclocks.


medium might be OK, I had to look and your at 4.7GHz, so stay there but if going up like 4.8 and above then high not medium.
as for phase control, getting it off extreme will lower voltage across the board, the same principal for the 4.5-4.7GHz range I stated for LLC.


----------



## kevindd992002

Do you guys never use "Additional Turbo Voltage"? It is similar to Offset but just affects the load voltage and not the idle voltage which is what we always want, right?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> medium might be OK, I had to look and your at 4.7GHz, so stay there but if going up like 4.8 and above then high not medium.
> as for phase control, getting it off extreme will lower voltage across the board, the same principal for the 4.5-4.7GHz range I stated for LLC.


Oh wow. Optimized it is then. 

Thank you, malmental!

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Do you guys never use "Additional Turbo Voltage"? It is similar to Offset but just affects the load voltage and not the idle voltage which is what we always want, right?


The P8P67 boards don't have that. Besides, I prefer to affect both: I want the lowest possible idle and load voltages.


----------



## malmental

impatiently awaiting your results TC..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh wow. Optimized it is then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, malmental!
> 
> The P8P67 boards don't have that. Besides, I prefer to affect both: I want the lowest possible idle and load voltages.


er

Is there a proof regarding the Optimized setting?

Ahh. But why would you want to affect both? You probably want the lowest possible idle and load voltage, yes, but if you increase the load voltage with Offset (in the process of looking for stability) you also increase the idle voltage. With the Additional Turbo Voltage setting, you just increase the load voltage while keeping the Offset to a minimum and thus the idle voltage is at a minimum as well.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Quick Note regarding Voltage Scaling - Internal binning of both D1 and D2 parts we discovered consistent voltage scaling patterns.
> 
> 1. For K series parts, the stock voltage supplied will allow for consistent overclocking generally up to a multiplier of 43x. There is potential for the multi to be raised to 44x depending on the load induced. This default voltage range be approx 1.240 to 1.260 under load.
> 2. Increased range between 44 to 47x multipliers will generally require a voltage range between 1.30 to 1.375V with an LLC recommended setting of medium to high to ultra high.
> 3. Increasing the range between 48 to 50x multiplier will generally require a voltage range between 1.40 to 1.500 with a LLC recommended setting of ultra high.
> 4. Increased range between 50 to 52 (52 generally considered peak max multiplier except for rare 54x parts) will generally require a CPU voltage range between 1.515 to 1.535V with LLC at Ultra High and potential fine adjustments to the CPU skew range.
> 
> Phase Control change to extreme - this value will allow for scaling to 50+ multi without issues
> Duty Control change to extreme - this value will for scaling to 50+ multi without issues.


I'm @ 4.5GHz and run my LLC at medium, since Two Cables is at 4.7GHz (posted above) is why I think (or thought) maybe high LLC is better.
and for phase control 4.5-4.7 is not an extreme overclock so optimized is the proper setting depending on how high of a clock.

edit:
I have tried both settings mention (phase control) and I have monitored the voltages both ways.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> impatiently awaiting your results TC..


The only changes that made any noticeable difference were enabling C3 and C6. My Kill A Watt reading went down by 14-15W!

At first I thought it was due to changing to Optimized. So I went back to Extreme; no change.

Then I thought it was due to using Medium instead of Ultra High. So, I went back to Ultra High with my Offset at +0.005V and C3 and C6 disabled (I didn't want idle lock-ups or BSODs). My power consumption went back up.

So then I figured it was due to disabling C3 and C6. So I went back to Medium, Optimized, +0.,065V, but I left C3 and C6 disabled and the power consumption remained higher.

After that, I enabled C3 and C6 and I saw that 14-15W drop again!

In other words, I'm keeping my LLC at Medium with my Offset at +0.065V so that I get to have C3 and C6 enabled. I realize that I could just experiment to see if I could get the same results with Ultra High, but I have also heard that lower LLC levels results in lower VRM temps. So, I'm fine with this. 

I just might change Duty Control too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> er
> 
> Is there a proof regarding the Optimized setting?
> 
> Ahh. But why would you want to affect both? You probably want the lowest possible idle and load voltage, yes, but if you increase the load voltage with Offset (in the process of looking for stability) you also increase the idle voltage. With the Additional Turbo Voltage setting, you just increase the load voltage while keeping the Offset to a minimum and thus the idle voltage is at a minimum as well.


Again though, the P8P67 boards don't have this setting.


----------



## malmental

what's your duty control setting.?

edit:
on my ASRock Z68 I have Additional Turbo Voltage on auto (turbo enabled)..
and to be honest without going back into my P8Z77-M Pro BIOS I'm not sure about the turbo setting if it's there.
I'd disable it first and run my clock then I would enabled and reset my clock to see what's better.
another note on the ASRock, the voltages ran lower with the turbo enabled ..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> what's your duty control setting.?


Well, up until about 30 seconds ago, it was Extreme. Now it's T. Probe.


----------



## kevindd992002

Yeah what about Duty Control setting, should it be the same as Phase Control?


----------



## TwoCables

According to the excerpt from the guide he posted, Extreme for both Phase Control and Duty Control may only be necessary for multipliers at 50 or above.


----------



## TwoCables

My only reason for choosing Ultra High for LLC and Extreme for Phase Control and Duty Control is from this video:






He overclocks the 2600K to 4.8 GHz which is like taking the 2500K to 4.7 GHz.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> what's your duty control setting.?
> 
> 
> 
> Well, up until about 30 seconds ago, it was Extreme. Now it's T. Probe.
Click to expand...











got your hardware monitor set (fans and temps settings).?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> My only reason for choosing Ultra High for LLC and Extreme for Phase Control and Duty Control is from this video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He overclocks the 2600K to 4.8 GHz which is like taking the 2500K to 4.7 GHz.


So which is which?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got your hardware monitor set (fans and temps settings).?


I control that stuff manually. Actually, I don't even need to worry about it these days because my sig rig has become an internet and e-mail machine. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So which is which?


What do you mean?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What do you mean?


I mean should Phase and Duty Control be set to Extreme or something lower?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> My only reason for choosing Ultra High for LLC and Extreme for Phase Control and Duty Control is from this video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He overclocks the 2600K to 4.8 GHz which is like taking the 2500K to 4.7 GHz.












he was just showing a quick overclock, a quick full power overclock. I think he was mainly showing off the power of the board itself more than anything.
briefly went through most but not all options like a Cliff Notes version.
plus he didn't take thee time to tweak it out.


----------



## GeneO

You might want try using EIST instead of or with the C-states. At idle not only will the voltage be lowered, but the frequency as well. I would think that keeping the frequency low at idle would also benefit the VRM.

I run EIST enabled , C-states disabled, LLC disabled @4.5 GHz. I have the windows power management set up so my frequency at idle is 2.2GHz instead of 1.6GHz. Raising the low frequency limit from 1.6 to 2.2 raises my idle voltage up a bit - from 0.926 to 1.02V. At full load I get 1.264V @ 4.5GHz stable, but medium loads can go up to 1.32V because there is less droop.

Just to follow up what you are looking at here. I set LLC to medium and adjusted my offset so under full load I am at the same voltage as with LLC off. My idle voltages were slightly lower: 0.992 instead of 1.02, so there is some effect there. Not enough for me to enable LLC for 24x7 - I'd rather not.

I have overclocked up to 4.7 and found I had to have some level of LLC above 4.5Ghz to be stable, but 4.5 is where the wall starts for me and I have to start cranking up the volts and temperature to where I am uncomfortable for 24x7.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What do you mean?
> 
> 
> 
> I mean should Phase and Duty Control be set to Extreme or something lower?
Click to expand...

(depending on your clock speed) - thermal which is lower..

edit:
I use EIST with the C-states.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I mean should Phase and Duty Control be set to Extreme or something lower?


According to this excerpt which malmental posted maybe 30 minutes ago, they should probably be set to Extreme if using a multiplier of 50 or higher:

Quote:


> Quick Note regarding Voltage Scaling - Internal binning of both D1 and D2 parts we discovered consistent voltage scaling patterns.
> 
> 1. For K series parts, the stock voltage supplied will allow for consistent overclocking generally up to a multiplier of 43x. There is potential for the multi to be raised to 44x depending on the load induced. This default voltage range be approx 1.240 to 1.260 under load.
> 2. Increased range between 44 to 47x multipliers will generally require a voltage range between 1.30 to 1.375V with an LLC recommended setting of medium to high to ultra high.
> 3. Increasing the range between 48 to 50x multiplier will generally require a voltage range between 1.40 to 1.500 with a LLC recommended setting of ultra high.
> 4. Increased range between 50 to 52 (52 generally considered peak max multiplier except for rare 54x parts) will generally require a CPU voltage range between 1.515 to 1.535V with LLC at Ultra High and potential fine adjustments to the CPU skew range.
> 
> *Phase Control change to extreme - this value will allow for scaling to 50+ multi without issues
> Duty Control change to extreme - this value will for scaling to 50+ multi without issues.*


This was written by JJ who's the guy in the video I posted. However, I believe he wrote this guide after he did that Newegg TV video, so I think that this guide represents some things he may have learned.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> You might want try using EIST instead of or with the C-states. At idle not only will the voltage be lowered, but the frequency as well. I would think that keeping the frequency low at idle would also benefit the VRM.
> 
> I run EIST enabled , C-states disabled, LLC disabled @4.5 GHz. I have the windows power management set up so my frequency at idle is 2.2GHz instead of 1.6GHz. Raising the low frequency limit from 1.6 to 2.2 raises my idle voltage up a bit - from 0.926 to 1.02V. At full load I get 1.264V @ 4.5GHz stable, but medium loads can go up to 1.32V because there is less droop.
> 
> Just to follow up what you are looking at here. I set LLC to medium and adjusted my offset so under full load I am at the same voltage as with LLC off. My idle voltages were slightly lower: 0.992 instead of 1.02, so there is some effect there. Not enough for me to enable LLC for 24x7 - I'd rather not.
> 
> I have overclocked up to 4.7 and found I had to have some level of LLC above 4.5Ghz to be stable, but 4.5 is where the wall starts for me and I have to start cranking up the volts and temperature to where I am uncomfortable for 24x7.


I have EIST and C1E enabled.


----------



## malmental

same guy really, wow that's weird.
your probably right about the timing of the video and then the thread posting.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> same guy really, wow that's weird.
> your probably right about the timing of the video and then the thread posting.


Well, the video was uploaded on January 11th of 2011 and his guide was posted on January 17th of 2011. I don't know when they recorded the Newegg TV video, but the date in his UEFI BIOS says December 23rd.


----------



## malmental

time for work guys (and gals if around), I'm on dreaded 'server duty' again tonight.
hopefully I can check back in a few hours from now.
gonna load up Win 8 on the workstation and yell at it and my manager all night about how much I hate it..









peace.


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, and I have to go to bed. I can't stay up for much longer.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, up until about 30 seconds ago, it was Extreme. Now it's T. Probe.


I figure T Probe would be best for the longevity of the VRM, same for Phase Control = Optimized. So if you can get a stable OC with either, that is what you should go with. I wish there were temperature probes on the VRM. I tried the various VRM settings at 4.5 GHz and found none really affected the OC stability or the CPU temps. Would be interesting to hear if the same is true @ 4.7GHz.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok, so the C3 and C6 functions were the one who compensated for the idle voltage. Won't it affect SSD performance though?


Regarding the C3/C6 states & their impact to SSD performance, I read some discussion on it in the other forum. The benchmark show the difference because CPU is not fully loaded. Let say you're working on something, definitely CPU is working on job(s) & therefore CPU is not entering C3/C6 states. So, the SSD performance shouldn't be effected even if C3/C6 enabled.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> I figure T Probe would be best for the longevity of the VRM, same for Phase Control = Optimized. So if you can get a stable OC with either, that is what you should go with. I wish there were temperature probes on the VRM. I tried the various VRM settings at 4.5 GHz and found none really affected the OC stability or the CPU temps. Would be interesting to hear if the same is true @ 4.7GHz.


I admit that I feel like I'm taking a chance based on what JJ said in that Newegg TV video. I mean, he took the 2600K to 4.8 GHz and to me that's like taking the 2500K to 4.7 GHz. Still, I have never tried Optimized or T. Probe for 4.7 GHz, so I figure it might be fun to see what happens. 

In the meantime though, I have to go to bed.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> (depending on your clock speed) - thermal which is lower..
> 
> edit:
> I use EIST with the C-states.


I'm aiming for 4.7 only because 4.8 for my CPU needs close to 1.5V already.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> According to this excerpt which malmental posted maybe 30 minutes ago, they should probably be set to Extreme if using a multiplier of 50 or higher:
> 
> This was written by JJ who's the guy in the video I posted. However, I believe he wrote this guide after he did that Newegg TV video, so I think that this guide represents some things he may have learned.


Oh ok, interesting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Regarding the C3/C6 states & their impact to SSD performance, I read some discussion on it in the other forum. The benchmark show the difference because CPU is not fully loaded. Let say you're working on something, definitely CPU is working on job(s) & therefore CPU is not entering C3/C6 states. So, the SSD performance shouldn't be effected even if C3/C6 enabled.


What do you suggest then, enabling them or disabling? I can't deduce from the information you've provided which setting is best.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Regarding the C3/C6 states & their impact to SSD performance, I read some discussion on it in the other forum. The benchmark show the difference because CPU is not fully loaded. Let say you're working on something, definitely CPU is working on job(s) & therefore CPU is not entering C3/C6 states. So, the SSD performance shouldn't be effected even if C3/C6 enabled.


I think it is because the C states are at a finer granularity in time. You don't see this effect with EIST for instance, which isn't fne grained. And also it doesn't affect sequential transfers because they are streaming and the state change overheads are small compared to the transfer times. I would still think that would mean small random transfers are affected whenever the processor load is low or medium. I will try and think of a good way to measure this.


----------



## ucode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Is there anything online that explains what the c states do and how they interact with windows?


Windows interacts with C-states, not the other way around. You might find in your BIOS that when disabling C3/C6 it says something like "Disable C3 Reporting". IOW C-states are not disabled, instead when the BIOS hands off to the OS it just doesn't inform it of the idle state(s). If Windows doesn't know about them then it doesn't use them.

Very basically, CPU core C1 stops the core clock, better known as "Halt", when all cores are at C1 state or higher and C1E is enabled then as well as stopping the clocks the voltage can be lowered to that of the LFM (VID that is associated with the lowest frequency mode, typically 1.6GHz for SNB/IVB). IIRC C3 also flushes L1/L2 and C6 additionally turns off supplies internally.

So when you think your CPU is idling at 1.6GHz it is most probably not running at all (0GHz). When you use software like cpu-z to measure frequency it needs to wake up the core(s) to read the registers. (catch 22). IIRC software such as Throttlestop and maybe Realtemp will show the time that the CPU spends in each C-State.

For using stepped turbo's you need the higher C-states enabled. For instance my 2500k gets quite hot for me at 4.6GHz with all 4 cores heavily loaded so I don't want to run 4 cores higher than that but if I'm only using one core it runs at 5.0GHz. For my P67/2500k no EIST, regular LLC (Intel spec) no C1E, C3/C6 reporting, -0.005V offset and 0.25V additional turbo voltage.

For LLC you might find this interesting http://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/5 and http://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/6


----------



## kevindd992002

If overclocking by altering the multiplier and setting it as "All Cores", do you still need to enable Turbo Mode? Isn't it a redundant setting since the CPU won't be using Turbo anyways or will it?


----------



## ucode

Any multi over 33 for your 2500k needs turbo enabled. If you set multi's in the BIOS above 33 then the BIOS should automatically enable turbo.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucode*
> 
> For LLC you might find this interesting http://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/5 and http://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/6


I've vouched for this in a thread a few weeks ago and I was bashed over and over saying that this review is very old and is not applicable to SBs and newer CPUs. Is this true or what? This just explains that a lower LLC is always better than a higher one.


----------



## ucode

Yes, it's old, that is true, although the specs may be different for later chips the principle remains the same.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What do you suggest then, enabling them or disabling? I can't deduce from the information you've provided which setting is best.


Except low/high power consumption when idle, you can enabled or disabled both states without any impact to the performance. This is what I meant. If you have locked CPU (non-K), then C3/C6 states does have an impact to the performance because they depend on them to enter Turbo Boost.

For unlocked CPU, the only time you can benefit from C3/C6 states disabled if your CPU locked up when idling (in overclock case).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucode*
> 
> Yes, it's old, that is true, although the specs may be different for later chips the principle remains the same.


So if I can be stable at 1.45V 4.7GHz Ultra High LLC and want to lower the LLC, which setting do you recommend and why?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Except low/high power consumption when idle, you can enabled or disabled both states without any impact to the performance. This is what I meant. If you have locked CPU (non-K), then C3/C6 states does have an impact to the performance because they depend on them to enter Turbo Boost.
> 
> For unlocked CPU, the only time you can benefit from C3/C6 states disabled if your CPU locked up when idling (in overclock case).


Is this confirmed already? The only time the SSD performance is affected is when the system is idle? When you use the SSD again (full load) then the performance is the same whether the c3/c6 states are enabled or disabled?


----------



## kizwan

Disabling C3/C6 states doesn't disabled idling. Your CPU still can idle. The only thing change when C3/C6 disabled is CPU do not enter C3/C6 states when idling.

When CPU going to deeper sleep states like C3 & C6, it will take longer time to become active (return to C0 state) but this is microscopic lag & unnoticeable (or rarely). Intel CPUs is great in this. I can't see why it can effect SSD performance but it does effect them & I did saw one or two benchmark show it is. Disabling C3/C6 states can improved SSD performance, so the only way to prevent CPU from entering C3/C6 states when C3/C6 enabled are by preventing the CPU from idling. I don't think HDD/SSD benchmark tool put enough load to CPU. So, run something in the background & run benchmark, see the result.

Unfortunately, I don't have SSD to provide any prove to you.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucode*
> 
> Any multi over 33 for your 2500k needs turbo enabled. If you set multi's in the BIOS above 33 then the BIOS should automatically enable turbo.


depends on motherboard..


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So if I can be stable at 1.45V 4.7GHz Ultra High LLC and want to lower the LLC, which setting do you recommend and why?
> Is this confirmed already? The only time the SSD performance is affected is when the system is idle? When you use the SSD again (full load) then the performance is the same whether the c3/c6 states are enabled or disabled?


It affects the performance when the system can enter these C states, that is when it is idle.You system enters these states frequently unless you are running a constant load like Prime 95 or something, which you rarely do. So yes it will affect your SSD performance. When I get time I will measure some transfers to see if I can prove this









I run LLC as low as I can or off just to protect against peak transients in voltage.


----------



## ucode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So if I can be stable at 1.45V 4.7GHz Ultra High LLC and want to lower the LLC, which setting do you recommend and why?


I don't recommend anything, why, because there are far too many variables. If you reduce LLC then expect to have to increase vcore setting in the BIOS but hopefully see that vcore becomes lower on full load. It is something you will have to experiment with and work out yourself.

VRM's will undershoot and overshoot with sudden big changes in load, all of them. How much will depend on how big that change is, the circuit design and quality of components. All VRM's should operate to Intel loadline specs or better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> depends on motherboard..


Not sure what you mean here but just to be clear turbo is a CPU feature and if bit 38 of MSR 0x1A0 is set (turbo disable) then the 2500k will not be running any multi's above 33.


----------



## malmental

not all motherboards operate that way and/or have those setting options, some motherboards let you disable turbo all together and some won't...
you attempting to teach me about the CPU and it's turbo feature gives me a chuckle....
















like I do not know what it is, c'mon son.....


----------



## ucode

My bad, lol.

In future I will assume everybody knows everything so no need to try and explain.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Disabling C3/C6 states doesn't disabled idling. Your CPU still can idle. The only thing change when C3/C6 disabled is CPU do not enter C3/C6 states when idling.
> 
> When CPU going to deeper sleep states like C3 & C6, it will take longer time to become active (return to C0 state) but this is microscopic lag & unnoticeable (or rarely). Intel CPUs is great in this. I can't see why it can effect SSD performance but it does effect them & I did saw one or two benchmark show it is. Disabling C3/C6 states can improved SSD performance, so the only way to prevent CPU from entering C3/C6 states when C3/C6 enabled are by preventing the CPU from idling. I don't think HDD/SSD benchmark tool put enough load to CPU. So, run something in the background & run benchmark, see the result.
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't have SSD to provide any prove to you.


Argue with the people above? They are saying that C3/C6 do affect SSD performance even when not idle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> It affects the performance when the system can enter these C states, that is when it is idle.You system enters these states frequently unless you are running a constant load like Prime 95 or something, which you rarely do. So yes it will affect your SSD performance. When I get time I will measure some transfers to see if I can prove this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I run LLC as low as I can or off just to protect against peak transients in voltage.


What then would be the advantage of using LLC if you want to keep it as low as possibe? And how do I determine "possible" in this scenario?

@malmental

Hope you can help me here.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Argue with the people above? They are saying that C3/C6 do affect SSD performance even when not idle.


You mean this:- (Please read again carefully)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> It affects the performance when the system can enter these C states, that is when it is idle. You system enters these states frequently *unless* you are running a constant load like Prime 95 or something, which you rarely do. So yes it will affect your SSD performance. When I get time I will measure some transfers to see if I can prove this


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucode*
> 
> My bad, lol.
> 
> In future I will assume everybody knows everything so no need to try and explain.


First reply from phone. At rim shop getting tire replaced.
Future correspondance between you and I can be on that level..
I'm glad we have come to an understanding..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You mean this:- (Please read again carefully)


You better learn to comprehend the word "unless". You are saying the same exact opposite as what GeneO's telling us.

GeneO says that most people frequently enter the idle states which is why C3/C6 will kick in and will affect SSD performance.

You are saying, on the other hand, that most of the time the CPU has "jobs" which makes it always in full load and so the C3/C6 settings don't have an effect.

Please correct me if my understanding of what you're saying is wrong. I'm really having a hard time reading your past-tensed words, sorry








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> First reply from phone. At rim shop getting tire replaced.
> Future correspondance between you and I can be on that level..
> I'm glad we have come to an understanding..


Hey mate, what do you think of my questions?


----------



## malmental

kevindd992... I'll be back soon to check it out. Hard on phone..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> kevindd992... I'll be back soon to check it out. Hard on phone..


No worries, I know how hard is it using a phone to navigate these full-of-info threads


----------



## malmental

I use LLC and see that the advantages of it under an OCing scenario outweigh the disadvantages..
(gives you more options to tweak)
LLC being enabled (to me) a more consistent voltage to be applied....
vDroop can be massive on some boards an to maintain stability enabling LLC is a must..

a 1 to 1 LLC produces more heat, simple as that.
so would I recommend LLC Level 1 to someone running a cheap air cooler? No, absolutely not, you have to have good cooling that's imperative.

a possible problem with LLC and load voltage is that CPU's need voltage even when they're not at full load, and that's where LLC can cause problems with the high levels of LLC.
LLC is boosting voltage under load situations, which could cause people to see that their load voltage is higher than it really needs to be if incorrectly set.
enter negative offset to help correct and/or change the LLC level and try again.

lowering voltage across the entire frequency/load range is what I like and you can only go so far with an offset without LLC.
*these are of course my own opinions.*

edit:
just found this breakdown of LLC and this guys thoughts.
Quote:


> Load-Line Calibration is a feature added to boards that allows the board to compensate for vDroop (voltage sag that might otherwise make your clock unstable) under times of load. Different "levels" of LLC apply different variations of compensation to your chosen vCore when load is applied to the processor. vDroop in itself (or whatever you want to call this), is a specification that was designed with longevity in mind, with that little bit of sag during high loads (assuming stock EVERYTHING), buying more time, and better temperatures with the chip used. It is extremely relevant to overclocking, as droop can make a potentially stable clock, crash.
> 
> That said, LLC can sometimes work better than it was intended to, and you end up with vBoost. Where the compensation will greatly overshoot the selected vCore, and can possibly damage or overheat the chip. Such extremes as +150mV are common with LLC set to its maximum compensation level. Use it with care.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I use LLC and see that the advantages of it under an OCing scenario outweigh the disadvantages..
> (gives you more options to tweak)
> LLC being enabled (to me) a more consistent voltage to be applied....
> vDroop can be massive on some boards an to maintain stability enabling LLC is a must..
> 
> a 1 to 1 LLC produces more heat, simple as that.
> so would I recommend LLC Level 1 to someone running a cheap air cooler? No, absolutely not, you have to have good cooling that's imperative.
> 
> a possible problem with LLC and load voltage is that CPU's need voltage even when they're not at full load, and that's where LLC can cause problems with the high levels of LLC.
> LLC is boosting voltage under load situations, which could cause people to see that their load voltage is higher than it really needs to be if incorrectly set.
> enter negative offset to help correct and/or change the LLC level and try again.
> 
> lowering voltage across the entire frequency/load range is what I like and you can only go so far with an offset without LLC.
> *these are of course my own opinions.*
> 
> edit:
> just found this breakdown of LLC and this guys thoughts.


Thanks. I do have a good cooler though. I'm near stability with 1.45V at 4.7GHz but if I want to be near stable at 4.8GHz I need to bump up Vcore to 1.5V. With that said, which LLC would be most suitable for me? Also, do I not need to run Phase and Duty Control to Extreme? How about C3 and C6 states that can possibly affect SSD performance too?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks. I do have a good cooler though. I'm near stability with 1.45V at 4.7GHz but if I want to be near stable at 4.8GHz I need to bump up Vcore to 1.5V. With that said, which LLC would be most suitable for me? Also, do I not need to run Phase and Duty Control to Extreme? How about C3 and C6 states that can possibly affect SSD performance too?


me, I would try this first just to see how it goes.
LLC - Medium possibly switching to high @ 4.8GHz and Duty Control - Thermal also possibly switching @ 4.8GHz
Phase - Optimized

as for C-States and SSD performance - I DO NOT REALLY KNOW to be honest bro...
I leave them enabled or on auto if (BIOS defaults) already have them set.
my units (all of them) have these settings and all have enter sleep mode at one time or another and came out / come out just fine, ready to roll.
I have yet to have an issue (knock on wood)..
as for the performance as in speed of the SSD (read/write) affected from C-States like first sentence, I don't know.

but now you have me curious..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucode*
> 
> Windows interacts with C-states, not the other way around. You might find in your BIOS that when disabling C3/C6 it says something like "Disable C3 Reporting". IOW C-states are not disabled, instead when the BIOS hands off to the OS it just doesn't inform it of the idle state(s). If Windows doesn't know about them then it doesn't use them.
> 
> Very basically, CPU core C1 stops the core clock, better known as "Halt", when all cores are at C1 state or higher and C1E is enabled then as well as stopping the clocks the voltage can be lowered to that of the LFM (VID that is associated with the lowest frequency mode, typically 1.6GHz for SNB/IVB). IIRC C3 also flushes L1/L2 and C6 additionally turns off supplies internally.
> 
> So when you think your CPU is idling at 1.6GHz it is most probably not running at all (0GHz). When you use software like cpu-z to measure frequency it needs to wake up the core(s) to read the registers. (catch 22). IIRC software such as Throttlestop and maybe Realtemp will show the time that the CPU spends in each C-State.
> 
> For using stepped turbo's you need the higher C-states enabled. For instance my 2500k gets quite hot for me at 4.6GHz with all 4 cores heavily loaded so I don't want to run 4 cores higher than that but if I'm only using one core it runs at 5.0GHz. For my P67/2500k no EIST, regular LLC (Intel spec) no C1E, C3/C6 reporting, -0.005V offset and 0.25V additional turbo voltage.
> 
> For LLC you might find this interesting http://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/5 and http://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/6


This Anandtech article does not apply to today's recommended motherboards. Pretty much all of today's recommended motherboards are not affected by this voltage spike even with high LLC settings because of the quality of the components on the motherboard (such as the VRM). Technology has come a long way since then. Yes, there are still boards that have parts that are so low in quality that it is a risk, but those boards aren't recommended to anyone anyway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I've vouched for this in a thread a few weeks ago and I was bashed over and over saying that this review is very old and is not applicable to SBs and newer CPUs. Is this true or what? This just explains that a lower LLC is always better than a higher one.


I was one of the people who showed you that it doesn't apply anymore because today's motherboards have such good components and parts on the PCB that there's no risk of this voltage spike, even with higher LLC settings. Technology has come a long way since then, and this is one of those ways.

Let me ask you this: is anyone reporting problems these days due to the voltage spike explained in that article? No, so that's even more evidence that it's no longer an issue. It hasn't been an issue since about a year after that article was published.

I used to post those two pages frequently back in the Core2 days, and I even kept doing it when socket 1366 came out. Eventually, some of the experts here on OCN stopped me and showed me how far technology has come and that it's no longer an issue because the voltage spike is suppressed (or stopped?) before it ever reaches the CPU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Except low/high power consumption when idle, you can enabled or disabled both states without any impact to the performance. This is what I meant. If you have locked CPU (non-K), then C3/C6 states does have an impact to the performance because they depend on them to enter Turbo Boost.
> 
> For unlocked CPU, the only time you can benefit from C3/C6 states disabled if your CPU locked up when idling (in overclock case).


Only if using an Offset voltage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So if I can be stable at 1.45V 4.7GHz Ultra High LLC and want to lower the LLC, which setting do you recommend and why?
> Is this confirmed already? The only time the SSD performance is affected is when the system is idle? When you use the SSD again (full load) then the performance is the same whether the c3/c6 states are enabled or disabled?


When C3 and C6 are set to Auto or Enabled, they only kick in when the CPU is idling. So when the CPU is not idling, C3 and C6 become disabled (in a sense), and thus they stop negatively affecting SATA performance (that is, if it's even true that the SATA performance is adversely affected when C3 and C6 are active, which only happens when the CPU is idling).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You better learn to comprehend the word "unless". You are saying the same exact opposite as what GeneO's telling us.
> 
> GeneO says that most people frequently enter the idle states which is why C3/C6 will kick in and will affect SSD performance.
> 
> You are saying, on the other hand, that most of the time the CPU has "jobs" which makes it always in full load and so the C3/C6 settings don't have an effect.
> 
> Please correct me if my understanding of what you're saying is wrong. I'm really having a hard time reading your past-tensed words, sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey mate, what do you think of my questions?


No, he's saying the same thing. Here's his post again, but with my changes in hopes of making it easier to understand:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Disabling C3/C6 states doesn't disable idling. Your CPU still can idle. The only thing that changes with C3/C6 set to Disabled is the CPU does not enter the C3/C6 states when it's idling.
> 
> When the CPU goes into the C3 and C6 states (the deeper sleep state, it will take longer to become active (to return to the C0 state) but this is microscopic lag & unnoticeable (or rarely noticeable). Intel CPUs are great at this, so most people never notice it. I don't see see why it can affect SSD performance, but it does and I did see one or two benchmarks proving it. So, disabling C3 and C6 prevents a reduction in SSD performance. With C3 and C6 enabled, the only way to prevent the CPU from entering the C3 and C6 states is by preventing the CPU from idling. I don't think HDD/SSD benchmark tools put enough load on the CPU to bring it out of an idle state. So, run something in the background like Prime95 & run your HDD/SSD benchmark to see the result.
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't have SSD to provide any prove to you.


There's one thing everyone is misunderstanding here: it's not that SSD performance is adversely affected; it's the SATA performance.

Anyway, what everyone is saying is this: when C3 and C6 are enabled, the only way they will have any affect on SATA performance is if the CPU is idling because that's when the C3 and C6 states are active. Fortunately, these two states are immediately deactivated as soon as there's any kind of load on the CPU at all. So, you'd have to run an SSD benchmark while the CPU is idling in order to see any adverse effects. I don't know if that's possible, but it sounds like it might be.

I'm not worried about it because I have C3 and C6 enabled and I feel absolutely no difference in my system's performance. This is because I'm an average user, and the average user is not going to have an idling CPU when using their SATA ports (such as for a hard drive, solid state drive, or optical drives). I mean, think about: what is your computer usually doing when your SATA ports are in use? It's usually doing something that requires the CPU. So, having C3 and C6 enabled should make absolutely no difference to the SATA performance for the average user.

Plus, by having C3 and C6 enabled, my system is now using 14-15W less than it was before.

Just for clarification: this has nothing to do with Sleep mode. It's the difference between the idle state and the loaded state.


----------



## malmental

Good call on the SATA being affected and not the SSD...
rep that..


----------



## TwoCables

The only thing that confuses me here is this is what Juan Jose at ASUS wrote in his overclocking guide (I edited it slightly to improve understanding):

Quote:


> In addition, continued testing with Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled on D2 or retail parts have shown some benefits to CStates being disabled when approaching, at, or exceeding a 50x multiplier. An important note to keep in mind is that disabling CStates can considerably affect HD performance ( especially SATA6G ) Please keep this in mind when going for the highest level overclocks.


So it sounds like he's saying that disabling C states (C3 and C6 included??) can "considerably affect" SATA performance. Notice that he says "especially SATA6G", which is SATA III. I'm not using my SATA III ports, so this may be why I'm not noticing any difference on way or the other.

However, also note that he said, "when approaching, at, or exceeding a 50x multiplier". I interpret this as maybe 49, 50, or higher, but I realize that even 47x can be considered "approaching" 50x. However, he then says to keep this in mind when going for the highest overclocks, and 47 isn't exactly one of the "highest". 48x is kind of the beginning of that.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> me, I would try this first just to see how it goes.
> LLC - Medium possibly switching to high @ 4.8GHz and Duty Control - Thermal also possibly switching @ 4.8GHz
> Phase - Optimized
> 
> as for C-States and SSD performance - I DO NOT REALLY KNOW to be honest bro...
> I leave them enabled or on auto if (BIOS defaults) already have them set.
> my units (all of them) have these settings and all have enter sleep mode at one time or another and came out / come out just fine, ready to roll.
> I have yet to have an issue (knock on wood)..
> as for the performance as in speed of the SSD (read/write) affected from C-States like first sentence, I don't know.
> 
> but now you have me curious..


Thanks. I will try this. I do use the Additional Turbo Voltage setting though. Are you familiar with this? It seems that there is a limit that no matter how high I increase this setting, the load core voltage remains the same.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> This Anandtech article does not apply to today's recommended motherboards. Pretty much all of today's recommended motherboards are not affected by this voltage spike even with high LLC settings because of the quality of the components on the motherboard (such as the VRM). Technology has come a long way since then. Yes, there are still boards that have parts that are so low in quality that it is a risk, but those boards aren't recommended to anyone anyway.
> 
> I was one of the people who showed you that it doesn't apply anymore because today's motherboards have such good components and parts on the PCB that there's no risk of this voltage spike, even with higher LLC settings. Technology has come a long way since then, and this is one of those ways.
> 
> Let me ask you this: is anyone reporting problems these days due to the voltage spike explained in that article? No, so that's even more evidence that it's no longer an issue. It hasn't been an issue since about a year after that article was published.
> 
> I used to post those two pages frequently back in the Core2 days, and I even kept doing it when socket 1366 came out. Eventually, some of the experts here on OCN stopped me and showed me how far technology has come and that it's no longer an issue because the voltage spike is suppressed (or stopped?) before it ever reaches the CPU.
> 
> Only if using an Offset voltage.
> 
> When C3 and C6 are set to Auto or Enabled, they only kick in when the CPU is idling. So when the CPU is not idling, C3 and C6 become disabled (in a sense), and thus they stop negatively affecting SATA performance (that is, if it's even true that the SATA performance is adversely affected when C3 and C6 are active, which only happens when the CPU is idling).
> 
> No, he's saying the same thing. Here's his post again, but with my changes in hopes of making it easier to understand:
> 
> There's one thing everyone is misunderstanding here: it's not that SSD performance is adversely affected; it's the SATA performance.
> 
> Anyway, what everyone is saying is this: when C3 and C6 are enabled, the only way they will have any affect on SATA performance is if the CPU is idling because that's when the C3 and C6 states are active. Fortunately, these two states are immediately deactivated as soon as there's any kind of load on the CPU at all. So, you'd have to run an SSD benchmark while the CPU is idling in order to see any adverse effects. I don't know if that's possible, but it sounds like it might be.
> 
> I'm not worried about it because I have C3 and C6 enabled and I feel absolutely no difference in my system's performance. This is because I'm an average user, and the average user is not going to have an idling CPU when using their SATA ports (such as for a hard drive, solid state drive, or optical drives). I mean, think about: what is your computer usually doing when your SATA ports are in use? It's usually doing something that requires the CPU. So, having C3 and C6 enabled should make absolutely no difference to the SATA performance for the average user.
> 
> Plus, by having C3 and C6 enabled, my system is now using 14-15W less than it was before.
> 
> Just for clarification: this has nothing to do with Sleep mode. It's the difference between the idle state and the loaded state.


My bad then, I was the one who misunderstood.

Thank you for this great explanation. So that means most of the time our system is not idling which means C3/C6 are disabled? Even when just browsing, our CPUs will go to full load, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The only thing that confuses me here is this is what Juan Jose at ASUS wrote in his overclocking guide (I edited it slightly to improve understanding):
> 
> So it sounds like he's saying that disabling C states (C3 and C6 included??) can "considerably affect" SATA performance. Notice that he says "especially SATA6G", which is SATA III. I'm not using my SATA III ports, so this may be why I'm not noticing any difference on way or the other.
> 
> However, also note that he said, "when approaching, at, or exceeding a 50x multiplier". I interpret this as maybe 49, 50, or higher, but I realize that even 47x can be considered "approaching" 50x. However, he then says to keep this in mind when going for the highest overclocks, and 47 isn't exactly one of the "highest". 48x is kind of the beginning of that.


This is really confusing. Now I just have to test it out myself









Oh by the way, somebody said here: www.overclock.net/t/754763/as-ssd-benchmark-thread/2760 that disabling C1E will also increase the 4K speeds of your SSD.

And also in the Sandy Stable thread, it was explained there that disabling C3/C6 produced better SSD benchmark results.

So there's really a lot of mixed comments going around here.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks. I will try this. I do use the Additional Turbo Voltage setting though. Are you familiar with this? It seems that there is a limit that no matter how high I increase this setting, the load core voltage remains the same.
> My bad then, I was the one who misunderstood.
> 
> Thank you for this great explanation. So that means most of the time our system is not idling


No. It's only idling when it's idling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> which means C3/C6 are disabled?


I think a better word might be "deactivated" because using the words "enabled" and "disabled" can cause anyone to think you're referring to the setting in the BIOS.

C3 and C6 are deeper sleep states for the CPU when it's idling. So if it's not idling, then it's not in the C3 and C6 states. It's like, when you are awake, you're not in your sleep state. If you're not at rest, then you're not in your rest state.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Even when just browsing, our CPUs will go to full load, right?


Well, I guess it would be a full load if what you're doing with your browser is just that demanding on the CPU. I mean, it's just like with you: if you go walking around, then is your body under full load? Not really.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> This is really confusing. Now I just have to test it out myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh by the way, somebody said here: www.overclock.net/t/754763/as-ssd-benchmark-thread/2760 that disabling C1E will also increase the 4K speeds of your SSD.
> 
> And also in the Sandy Stable thread, it was explained there that disabling C3/C6 produced better SSD benchmark results.
> 
> So there's really a lot of mixed comments going around here.


Well, I don't see, feel, or notice any difference, so I don't care.  My system pulls less power with C1E, C3 and C6 enabled, so that's good enough for me.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You better learn to comprehend the word "unless". You are saying the same exact opposite as what GeneO's telling us.
> 
> GeneO says that most people frequently enter the idle states which is why C3/C6 will kick in and will affect SSD performance.
> 
> You are saying, on the other hand, that most of the time the CPU has "jobs" which makes it always in full load and so the C3/C6 settings don't have an effect.
> 
> Please correct me if my understanding of what you're saying is wrong. I'm really having a hard time reading your past-tensed words, sorry


"You system enters these states frequently unless you are running a constant load like Prime 95 or something, which you rarely do."
In this statement: unless you're running "Prime95 or something" - or anything that use CPU processing power, e.g. loading/playing games, rendering, etc - CPU will idle & then CPU will enter C3/C6 states. In my understanding, the "which you rarely do" referring to "Prime 95 or something".

This is my version:-
"Disabling C3/C6 states can improved SSD performance, so the only way to prevent CPU from entering C3/C6 states when C3/C6 enabled are by preventing the CPU from idling. I don't think HDD/SSD benchmark tool put enough load to CPU. So, run something in the background & run benchmark, see the result."
By "run something" means run anything that load up CPU, preventing it from going to idling & therefore entering sleep states. At the same time run HDD/SSD benchmark, see if the number improves.

In my opinion, HDD/SSD benchmark software doesn't use a lot of processing power & when this happen some cores if not all will enter sleep states. Because of this you got poor result in benchmark. If you disabled C3/C6 states, you get better benchmark because even though the benchmark software doesn't use a lot of processing power, CPU doesn't enter C3/C6 states but it always ready to work (C1 state at least).

I don't know why C3/C6 states can cause poor SSD performance or to be exact poor benchmark result. I do know there's lag when transitioning from C3/C6 to "working" state (C0) but this is microscopic lag, unnoticeable. However, the lag probably enough to cause the SATA controller to "underperform". This is my understanding though.

Let see real world application. Unlike HDD/SSD benchmark software, real world application usually use CPU processing power. For example, when loading/starting games, it definitely use CPU processing power. CPU "wakes" from sleep states, SATA controller managed to "recover" & SSD performs as it should be. This is why many people claims they didn't noticed any difference in performance whether C3/C6 states disabled or enabled because SSD should perform as it should be. Unlike benchmark software, real world doesn't represent performance with numbers. That's why if you want see some numbers, running something in the background to keep CPU loaded & run benchmark.

Regarding "idle", don't confuse it with C3/C6. C3/C6 are CPU sleep states. CPU will idle either C3/C6 states are enabled or disabled. The only difference between the two is the latter CPU doesn't enter C3/C6 states.

English is my second language. I already tried my best.


----------



## TwoCables

And don't confuse the CPU's sleep states with Sleep Mode.


----------



## GeneO

The C states are called idle-states, not sleep-states, so should be referred to as idle-state.

To kizwan: whenever your CPU is to maxed out to 100%, it will be idling and enter c idle states. Real world is you don't run your CPU in a mode that it doesn't frequently idle. Also the lag is not unnoticeable - it is what causes the benchmark to get lower scores - so it is noticeable. It won't be as noticeable in real-world, but I bet it does. In any case, I will do some real world comparisons once I figure out how to do that


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There's one thing everyone is misunderstanding here: it's not that SSD performance is adversely affected; it's the SATA performance.


I agree but when SATA performance effected, it will impact SSD performance too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Anyway, what everyone is saying is this: when C3 and C6 are enabled, the only way they will have any affect on SATA performance is if the CPU is idling because that's when the C3 and C6 states are active. Fortunately, these two states are immediately deactivated as soon as there's any kind of load on the CPU at all. So, you'd have to run an SSD benchmark while the CPU is idling in order to see any adverse effects. I don't know if that's possible, but it sounds like it might be.


In my opinion, HDD/SSD benchmark tools doesn't use a lot CPU processing power. When it execute task, CPU wake up & do the job but since it doesn't use a lot of processing power, the job done fast & CPU will go back to into C3/C6 sleep states. This what effect the result.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Just for clarification: this has nothing to do with Sleep mode. It's the difference between the idle state and the loaded state.


C-states also known as CPU sleep states. The deeper the states like C3 or C6, the less power consumption. I don't have the detail for the other sleep states but in C6, CPU will save what it is working to memory & reduce the voltage to zero. C0 state is when CPU is working. Yes, they're not referring to computer sleep/hibernate mode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> And don't confuse the CPU's sleep states with Sleep Mode.


When did I confuse between the two? I even correcting someone in a couple pages back:-
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That is incorrect. C3 & C6 is one of the CPU sleep states. It's not for computer sleep/hibernation function. It is useful to bring down power consumption when idling. When CPU core doesn't have job, it will enter one of these states & this help reduced power consumption. For example, when CPU core enter C6 state, voltage is reduced to zero, hence the power consumption also zero.
> 
> For locked CPU (not overclockable), C3 & C6 states help CPU enter Turbo Boost. For unlocked CPU, it's useful for low power consumption when idling.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I agree but when SATA performance effected, it will impact SSD performance too.


That goes without saying it. It's less confusing to say "SATA performance" because this will not allow anyone to get the false impression that their hard drives will be unaffected.

So, SATA performance. Not SSD performance. It's less confusing and more accurate. Saying "SATA performance" tells everyone that anything connected to a SATA port can be affected. Saying "SSD performance" looks like it means that only SSDs are affected which is not true.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> C-states also known as CPU sleep states. The deeper the states like C3 or C6, the less power consumption. I don't have the detail for the other sleep states but in C6, CPU will save what it is working to memory & reduce the voltage to zero. C0 state is when CPU is working. Yes, they're not referring to computer sleep/hibernate mode.


Right, but as you know, there's something many people use that's called "Sleep Mode". What I'm saying is, we should not allow anyone to confuse this stuff with Sleep Mode. Do you know what I mean when I say "Sleep Mode"?

I mean, I know that they're also called sleep states, so all I'm doing is making sure no one confuses it with Sleep Mode. I like to keep things as clear as possible.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> When did I confuse between the two? I even correcting someone in a couple pages back:-


I'm not saying that you did. I'm just trying to make sure no one confuses it with Sleep Mode.


----------



## malmental

I also consider 4.8GHz to be the beginning of the next tier or level up in overclocking..
(4.4 - 4.7GHz) can be considered medium to high and (4.7 - 4.9GHz) high to ultra.
and (4.8 - 5.1GHz) then 5.2GHz and above for those 'special chips'...
(a little overlapping for the difference in chips, not every chip is the same..)

highest I have even been was 4.8GHz personally...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> That goes without saying it. It's less confusing to say "SATA performance" because this will not allow anyone to get the false impression that their hard drives will be unaffected.
> 
> So, SATA performance. Not SSD performance. It's less confusing and more accurate. Saying "SATA performance" tells everyone that anything connected to a SATA port can be affected. Saying "SSD performance" looks like it means that only SSDs are affected which is not true.


Hmmm... I see things differently. HDD already slow. It's hard to notice if it running slower than it regular slow.







SSD in the other hand fast. If it running slow, it easily to notice. This is just how I see them. Anyway, I agree, we should say SATA performance is effected. Less confusing to everyone.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm not saying that you _did. _ I'm just trying to make sure no one confuses it with Sleep Mode.


At first I did thought you didn't but when you repeat the second time I thought you did. Sorry.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> "You system enters these states frequently unless you are running a constant load like Prime 95 or something, which you rarely do."
> In this statement: unless you're running "Prime95 or something" - or anything that use CPU processing power, e.g. loading/playing games, rendering, etc - CPU will idle & then CPU will enter C3/C6 states. In my understanding, the "which you rarely do" referring to "Prime 95 or something".
> 
> This is my version:-
> "Disabling C3/C6 states can improved SSD performance, so the only way to prevent CPU from entering C3/C6 states when C3/C6 enabled are by preventing the CPU from idling. I don't think HDD/SSD benchmark tool put enough load to CPU. So, run something in the background & run benchmark, see the result."
> By "run something" means run anything that load up CPU, preventing it from going to idling & therefore entering sleep states. At the same time run HDD/SSD benchmark, see if the number improves.
> 
> In my opinion, HDD/SSD benchmark software doesn't use a lot of processing power & when this happen some cores if not all will enter sleep states. Because of this you got poor result in benchmark. If you disabled C3/C6 states, you get better benchmark because even though the benchmark software doesn't use a lot of processing power, CPU doesn't enter C3/C6 states but it always ready to work (C1 state at least).
> 
> I don't know why C3/C6 states can cause poor SSD performance or to be exact poor benchmark result. I do know there's lag when transitioning from C3/C6 to "working" state (C0) but this is microscopic lag, unnoticeable. However, the lag probably enough to cause the SATA controller to "underperform". This is my understanding though.
> 
> Let see real world application. Unlike HDD/SSD benchmark software, real world application usually use CPU processing power. For example, when loading/starting games, it definitely use CPU processing power. CPU "wakes" from sleep states, SATA controller managed to "recover" & SSD performs as it should be. This is why many people claims they didn't noticed any difference in performance whether C3/C6 states disabled or enabled because SSD should perform as it should be. Unlike benchmark software, real world doesn't represent performance with numbers. That's why if you want see some numbers, running something in the background to keep CPU loaded & run benchmark.
> 
> Regarding "idle", don't confuse it with C3/C6. C3/C6 are CPU sleep states. CPU will idle either C3/C6 states are enabled or disabled. The only difference between the two is the latter CPU doesn't enter C3/C6 states.
> 
> English is my second language. I already tried my best.


GeneO was saying that we don't frequently do Prime95 jobs so he was referring to idling frequently.

You said most of the time our processors do jobs.

How can these be the same?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I even correcting someone in a couple pages back:-


I never confused sleep with c3/c6.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> GeneO was saying that we don't frequently do Prime95 jobs so he was referring to idling frequently.
> 
> You said most of the time our processors do jobs.
> 
> How can these be the same?


Not to be rude or anything, but does it really matter?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I never confused sleep with c3/c6.


All I am doing is making sure no one confuses "sleep states" with "Sleep Mode".


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I also consider 4.8GHz to be the beginning of the next tier or level up in overclocking..
> (4.4 - 4.7GHz) can be considered medium to high and (4.7 - 4.9GHz) high to ultra.
> and (4.8 - 5.1GHz) then 5.2GHz and above for those 'special chips'...
> (a little overlapping for the difference in chips, not every chip is the same..)
> 
> highest I have even been was 4.8GHz personally...


I thought for 4.8GHz you would try Medium first?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Not to be rude or anything, but does it really matter?
> 
> All I am doing is making sure no one confuses "sleep states" with "Sleep Mode".


I don't if it matters to Kizwan. He started it.

Yes, that was actually directed to Kizwan because he "corrected" me when I never said anything about sleep.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I mean, I know that they're also called sleep states, so all I'm doing is making sure no one confuses it with Sleep Mode. I like to keep things as clear as possible.


They *are not* called sleep states. If they are it is by people using the wrong terminology, Don't propagate the misuse. The only things that are properly called sleep states are the S-states. Call them (low power) idle-states and their purpose is clear and any confusion goes away


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I thought for 4.8GHz you would try Medium first?


He's not talking about the LLC. He's just rating each overclock with a scale of like, Low, Medium, High, etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I don't if it matters to Kizwan. He started it.
> 
> Yes, that was actually directed to Kizwan because he "corrected" me when I never said anything about sleep.


Oh, so you're the "someone" who he corrected a few pages back.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> They *are not* called sleep states. If they are it is by people using the wrong terminology, Don't propagate the misuse. The only things that are properly called sleep states are the S-states. Call them (low power) idle-states and their purpose is clear and any confusion goes away


Tell that to Hardware Secrets:

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/611


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> He's not talking about the LLC. He's just rating each overclock with a scale of like, Low, Medium, High, etc.
> 
> Oh, so you're the "someone" who he corrected a few pages back.


Oh ok! Sorry about that.

Yup I sure am that someone.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> GeneO was saying that we don't frequently do Prime95 jobs so he was referring to idling frequently.
> 
> You said most of the time our processors do jobs.
> 
> How can these be the same?


When did I said most of the time our processors do jobs? Please direct me to which my post I said that. If any I'm just referring between benchmark & real world applications. I said I don't think HDD/SSD benchmark use a lot of CPU processing power. The result will not show the true performance of the SSD. In real world application, such as gaming, rendering, etc, they will use CPU processing power a lot & this allow SSD to perform as it should be.

When running benchmark, we usually run it without anything running in the background. Common sense since we don't want to screw the result. Again I said I don't think HDD/SSD benchmark use a lot of CPU processing power. The result will not show the true performance of the SSD. Then, run something in the background, at least preventing the CPU from idling & therefore not entering C3/C6 sleep states. At the same time run HDD/SSD benchmark & see the result. If I have SSD I will already doing this & share the result here. I'm eager to see the result.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I never confused sleep with c3/c6.


When did I said you confused between sleep & C3/C6?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I don't if it matters to Kizwan. He started it.
> 
> Yes, that was actually directed to Kizwan because he "corrected" me when I never said anything about sleep.


Are you pissed at me? So, you have two accounts at OCN? This is the person who I corrected a couple pages back. Are you Catscratch too?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/8210#post_19224195
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> In general, C1E is for idle, C3 and C6 are for Sleep/Hibernation. If you never use Sleep/Hibernation like me, you can safely disable C3/C6. It's suggested to disable them in Offset mode because many people ran into BSODs when machine is idling or light load(web). However, there was some SSD issues in Offset mode and C3/C6 Disabled, i can't remember specifics.
> 
> 
> 
> That is incorrect. C3 & C6 is one of the CPU sleep states. It's not for computer sleep/hibernation function. It is useful to bring down power consumption when idling. When CPU core doesn't have job, it will enter one of these states & this help reduced power consumption. For example, when CPU core enter C6 state, voltage is reduced to zero, hence the power consumption also zero.
> 
> For locked CPU (not overclockable), C3 & C6 states help CPU enter Turbo Boost. For unlocked CPU, it's useful for low power consumption when idling.
Click to expand...

If this become pissing contest, then I won't post in this thread anymore. I'm not a child but I don't want to create tension among us.

I've read C3/C6 & SSD issue since first generation Intel Core i processors. I have not see any benchmark result from 2nd generation aka Sandy Bridge. Also only some who share their result & some claims their SSD benchmark not effected at all but didn't share the benchmark result. Basically, there's a lot of chat on this but no one doing the test, as far as I know.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> When did I said most of the time our processors do jobs? Please direct me to which my post I said that. If any I'm just referring between benchmark & real world applications. I said I don't think HDD/SSD benchmark use a lot of CPU processing power. The result will not show the true performance of the SSD. In real world application, such as gaming, rendering, etc, they will use CPU processing power a lot & this allow SSD to perform as it should be.
> 
> When running benchmark, we usually run it without anything running in the background. Common sense since we don't want to screw the result. Again I said I don't think HDD/SSD benchmark use a lot of CPU processing power. The result will not show the true performance of the SSD. Then, run something in the background, at least preventing the CPU from idling & therefore not entering C3/C6 sleep states. At the same time run HDD/SSD benchmark & see the result. If I have SSD I will already doing this & share the result here. I'm eager to see the result.
> When did I said you confused between sleep & C3/C6?
> Are you pissed at me? So, you have two accounts at OCN? This is the person who I corrected a couple pages back. Are you Catscratch too?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/8210#post_19224195
> If this become pissing contest, then I won't post in this thread anymore. I'm not a child but I don't want to create tension among us.
> 
> I've read C3/C6 & SSD issue since first generation Intel Core i processors. I have not see any benchmark result from 2nd generation aka Sandy Bridge. Also only some who share their result & some claims their SSD benchmark not effected at all but didn't share the benchmark result. Basically, there's a lot of chat on this but no one doing the test, as far as I know.


Not pissed at all. I guess we just misunderstand each other. Stop, let's move on. I got you. Thanks.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Tell that to Hardware Secrets:
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/611


That dates back to 2008 (!







) and that is not the usage for current processors. hardwaresecrets isn't calling them sleep states but I think trying to describe what they do int terms that an average reader can understand.

Look at the Intel specs and other links I posted earlier in this thread. The C states occur under the G0 state, which is the working state. with C0 being the active state (also considered one of the idle states). The S states occur under the G1 State, which is the sleeping state.

Now. It may be that Intel is mixing it up again with Haswell









Anyhow it isn't that big of a deal


----------



## TwoCables

Can you show me the Intel specs and links you posted? I'm not challenging you, but I'd rather not have to go looking for it.


----------



## kizwan

I did quick run CrystalDiskMark benchmark on my laptop. Unfortunately I don't have SSD & Sandy Bridge computer. My laptop has quad core 1st gen Intel Core processor. There's only small variation with either C3/C6 states disabled or enabled. HDD not fast like SSD, so it doesn't show any difference I guess. What I can conclude from this is that my HDD performance is not effected. What I can show here is that CPU still entering C3/C6 states while benchmark is running which proved my point in my previous post.

The tool I use to monitor C-States is CState which was written by ThrottleStop author, unclewebb.

I did three sets of test:-
1) C3 & C6 states enabled
2) C3 & C6 states enabled - CPU loaded using IBT
3) C3 & C6 states disabled

This is picture for no. 1 showing CPU still entering C3 & C6 states while benchmark is running. CPU spent a lot of time in C6 though.


This one I ran IBT to prevent CPU from entering C3/C6 states.


I'm just showing how I ran the test, not about the scores. My scores meaningless because I don't have SSD.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Can you show me the Intel specs and links you posted? I'm not challenging you, but I'd rather not have to go looking for it.


I took the time to gather a few useful links and post them. If you can't be bothered t o go back a few pages to find it and learn something I can't. It is in the datasheet 1 for your processor.


----------



## unclewebb

RealTemp T|I Edition
http://www.overclock.net/t/1330144/realtemp-t-i-edition

I added C State monitoring to the latest version of RealTemp.

The bios on my Asus desktop board lets you pick and choose what C States the CPU uses so it should be easy to do some SSD comparison benchmarks.

Even during the middle of a SuperPI bench, individual cores will still be spending a big chunk of time in C6 if this is enabled.










When using C6, the software reported core voltage becomes a meaningless number. It doesn't matter if core voltage is high or low because 99% of the time, your individual cores will be in C6 getting close to 0 volts. When using C6 you can go with a fixed voltage and even a high multiplier when idle without any measurable difference in power consumption because your cores are in a low power state already.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> I took the time to gather a few useful links and post them. If you can't be bothered t o go back a few pages to find it and learn something I can't. It is in the datasheet 1 for your processor.


It would be significantly easier for you to find your post than it would be for me to find it because you're the one who posted it. Not only that, but I use the 100 Posts Per Page setting, and I also don't remember you posting it so I don't even have an approximate time or date of when you posted it! So, do you really expect me to sift through what could be a few hundred posts just to find it? If you really want me to see your post, then help me find it.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It would be significantly easier for you to find your post than it would be for me to find it because you're the one who posted it. Not only that, but I use the 100 Posts Per Page setting, and I also don't remember you posting it so I don't even have an approximate time or date of when you posted it! So, do you really expect me to sift through what could be a few hundred posts just to find it? If you really want me to see your post, then help me find it.


Come on now kids







is this the post?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Here are a few links explaining C-states (and other power management features):
> 
> http://impact.asu.edu/cse591sp11/Nahelempm.pdf
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/2919/4
> 
> And the Intel Second Generation datasheet has a good definitive description (pre-Haswell) in the Power Management section:
> 
> http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/datasheets/2nd-gen-core-desktop-vol-1-datasheet.pdf


----------



## owcraftsman

Took me 2 minutes to find the post 2 days ago. I'd say your are right GeneO... lazy

http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club/8200_50#post_19219468

All I did was click on your name then all post scroll down a bit and wala

@ unclewebb thanks for pointing to your update I missed it Thanks too for all you do.


----------



## TwoCables

Wow. You guys are rude. Maybe I should just stop posting in this thread.


----------



## malmental




----------



## TwoCables

I'm serious. I'm getting sick of this crap.

I'd appreciate some sincere apologies.


----------



## Nethermir

Lol malmental.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm serious. I'm getting sick of this crap.
> 
> I'd appreciate some sincere apologies.


I got nothing but love for ya TC...








I appreciate you sticking around...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I got nothing but love for ya TC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate you sticking around...


Be careful. You don't want to become friends with someone who's stupid and lazy.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I got nothing but love for ya TC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate you sticking around...
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful. You don't want to become friends with someone who's stupid and lazy.
Click to expand...

but you do not know me well enough to call me that....


----------



## geoxile

Can anyone help me out? A USB port powering an LED ambient lighting strip isn't shutting off when I shut off my PC through Windows. This didn't happen before yesterday so it happens rather suddenly. If I hold down the power button and do a hard shut down it turns off though. And I don't have the USB 3.0 battery charging feature enabled in BIOS, the LED strip isn't even using a USB 3.0 slot


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> but you do not know me well enough to call me that....


I didn't call you stupid and lazy. I'm saying that they called *me* stupid and lazy, and so I'm saying that you should be careful because they might laugh at you for liking me.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> but you do not know me well enough to call me that....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't call you stupid and lazy. I'm saying that they called _*me*_stupid and lazy, and so I'm saying that you should be careful because they might laugh at you for liking me.
Click to expand...

relax bro, I was joking....


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Can anyone help me out? A USB port powering an LED ambient lighting strip isn't shutting off when I shut off my PC through Windows. This didn't happen before yesterday so it happens rather suddenly. If I hold down the power button and do a hard shut down it turns off though. And I don't have the USB 3.0 battery charging feature enabled in BIOS, the LED strip isn't even using a USB 3.0 slot


ahh yes an issue....
let everyone relax and try and assist are ASUS P brethren..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> relax bro, I was joking....


I'm not taking offense to what you said.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> ahh yes an issue....
> let everyone relax and try and assist are ASUS P brethren..


Yeah, and don't call him stupid and lazy for not figuring this out on his own.


----------



## malmental

let's all try not too..... (though I haven't called any names and try to keep the peace..)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> let's all try not too..... (though I haven't called any names and try to keep the peace..)


I agree: you're a good example for some of the others in here.

It just pisses me off when someone is selfish while helping others. It's like, if you're going to be selfish, then just don't even bother trying to help people because your selfishness makes you rude.

Malmental, I've never seen you be selfish in the way I am talking about, so I commend you for that.

Anyway, let's help geoxile figure this out (if there's even a solution).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Can anyone help me out? A USB port powering an LED ambient lighting strip isn't shutting off when I shut off my PC through Windows. This didn't happen before yesterday so it happens rather suddenly. If I hold down the power button and do a hard shut down it turns off though. And I don't have the USB 3.0 battery charging feature enabled in BIOS, the LED strip isn't even using a USB 3.0 slot


How long have you had it?

Was there a Windows Update yesterday that may have included a driver for the USB controller?

This next one is a long shot, but is the light plugged in all the way?


----------



## owcraftsman

@ TC I hear if you try a snickers bar it helps

@ geoxile did you make any recent changes to your bios or update software or windows?

Stupid me I have made changes I didn't intend to make in bios before and if you always press F10 even a slip will be saved.

on my V-Pro my ports are always on even when shut down but I find that a good thing and USB 3.0 charging feature is not enabled either but those are front case panel USB 2.0 connected to mobo header


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> @ TC I hear if you try a snickers bar it helps


heh

You should have done it the way am dew1 did it: he posted it and decided to make it fun by joking around a little bit. The way you did it was rude because of your unnecessary (and rude) commentary. You're just as bad as Gene.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> How long have you had it?
> 
> Was there a Windows Update yesterday that may have included a driver for the USB controller?
> 
> This next one is a long shot, but is the light plugged in all the way?


The problem or the PC? The problem appeared yesterday. I installed some updates that were on the back burner for a while but they seemed like minor hotfixes to me


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> How long have you had it?
> 
> Was there a Windows Update yesterday that may have included a driver for the USB controller?
> 
> This next one is a long shot, but is the light plugged in all the way?


The problem or the PC? The problem appeared yesterday. I installed some updates that were on the back burner for a while but they seemed like minor hotfixes to me


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> The problem or the PC? The problem appeared yesterday. I installed some updates that were on the back burner for a while but they seemed like minor hotfixes to me


Oh, I meant the USB light. 

I have a bad feeling that one of those updates is the culprit.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> @ TC I hear if you try a snickers bar it helps
> 
> 
> 
> heh
> 
> You should have done it the way am dew1 did it: he posted it and decided to make it fun by joking around a little bit. The way you did it was rude because of your unnecessary (and rude) commentary. You're just as bad as Gene.
Click to expand...

I thought have a snicker for a diva was funny. Grow up big boy and stop airing your selfish personal grievances in this thread and stay on topic this is OCN not facebook no wonder you have 44K post. Some of us would rather not have to scroll through all this junk. I pointed to his post to be helpful and because you spent more time trying to make him look foolish than finding the post he mentioned, I was sick of reading it. Another thing I never called you stupid and don't see where GeneO did either. Your threat to leave here is childish and may point to the real problem but if I have an opinion I will make it any way I see fit within the rule of this forum.

*@ geoxile try system restore go back past the updates and see if this behavior goes away*


----------



## TwoCables

Then I'll break it down:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Took me 2 minutes to find the post 2 days ago. I'd say your are right GeneO... lazy


This comment was rude and unnecessary. Why did you say it? Why couldn't you have just said, "I may have found it" and left it at that? Does it bother you that I'm not perfect? What's the deal?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> All I did was click on your name then all post scroll down a bit and wala


This sounds like you think I'm stupid too.

Like the first comment, this one was unnecessary. All you had to do was post it up and say "Hey, I think I found it", and then I would have thanked you and that would have been the end of it. Can you see the difference here? There was no need for you to add these little comments in.

I mean, look at the way am dew1 handled it. He knows better than to make unnecessary comments like that.

Finally, I did not say that Gene called me stupid. Instead, he's just plain rude. If he would have done what am dew1 did, then there would have been absolutely no problem. Like you said, finding Gene's post was easy, so if it was so easy then Gene should have had no problem finding his post for me instead of being a jerk about it.

I'm getting sick of the piss-poor attitude of some of you on here. Take am dew1's lead and do things right. If you can't do that, then get out of the way and let someone else help who knows how to keep the peace.


----------



## error-id10t

wow, topic's gone little off topic but I do have a question. I went back to normal/stock settings to replicate what Kizwan did - CDM runs just fine and obviously C states kick in, much harder at times compared to others but when I try and do it with IBT, the computer froze instantly. This is stock, I've never tried it before so is that normal? I know my chip is a POS, just look at my Stable Sandy run but shouldn't it be able to run IBT at stock?


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It would be significantly easier for you to find your post than it would be for me to find it because you're the one who posted it. Not only that, but I use the 100 Posts Per Page setting, and I also don't remember you posting it so I don't even have an approximate time or date of when you posted it! So, do you really expect me to sift through what could be a few hundred posts just to find it? If you really want me to see your post, then help me find it.


Sorry I was snippy, I was running late this morning. Unfortunately the forum structure doesn't make it easier for me to find than anybody else. What I posted was in the last few days in response to the discussion here about C-state. I assumed you knew that - sorry.

It is easier for me just to get it from the Intel site









http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/2nd-gen-core-desktop-vol-1-datasheet.html

section 4, power management

BTW, note there is also an S0 "awake" state that is fully powered on that comes under G0-working that the C-states fall under. Under Haswell I believe they are going to introduce some "sub" S0 states and they call them sleep states, which muddies things a bit. They will be for "sort of" sleep states while the user is interacting with the system, which blurs the boundaries a bit.

Cheers


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Sorry I was snippy, I was running late this morning. Unfortunately the forum structure doesn't make it easier for me to find than anybody else. What I posted was in the last few days in response to the discussion here about C-state. I assumed you knew that - sorry.
> 
> It is easier for me just to get it from the Intel site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/2nd-gen-core-desktop-vol-1-datasheet.html
> 
> section 4, power management
> 
> Cheers


Whoa, thank you. I take back every negative thing I said. I apologize for allowing myself to have the wrong impression of you.

I accept your apology too, Gene!

So it seems they call them Processor Core / Package Idle States, and they say that when it's in the C3 state, it's in a Deep Sleep "processor state". C6 is a "Deep Power-down" processor state. So I guess on one hand you can call them Idle States, but on the other you can call them Sleep States.

Interesting stuff, and I like how this clarifies exactly what C1/C1E is too.


----------



## malmental

I feel the love in the room...


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> wow, topic's gone little off topic but I do have a question. I went back to normal/stock settings to replicate what Kizwan did - CDM runs just fine and obviously C states kick in, much harder at times compared to others but when I try and do it with IBT, the computer froze instantly. This is stock, I've never tried it before so is that normal? I know my chip is a POS, just look at my Stable Sandy run but shouldn't it be able to run IBT at stock?


Your chip POS or not should run IBT at default settings unless there is a bad setting other than default or in some cases I've heard of folks redownloading IBT from a different source and the trouble went away. If you set optimized defaults in bios and can not pass at least 20 passes of IBT you may have a defective proc.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Whoa, thank you. I take back every negative thing I said. I apologize for allowing myself to have the wrong impression of you.
> 
> I accept your apology too, Gene!
> 
> So it seems they call them Processor Core / Package Idle States, and they say that when it's in the C3 state, it's in a Deep Sleep "processor state". C6 is a "Deep Power-down" processor state. So I guess on one hand you can call them Idle States, but on the other you can call them Sleep States.
> 
> Interesting stuff, and I like how this clarifies exactly what C1/C1E is too.


I rushed out the door after posting this morning and got caught in a traffic jam anyhow - took me 20 minutes to traverse a mile because of some downed power lines.

But Arrggggh, no you can't call them sleep states. The S states are the sleep states, the C states are idle states irregardless of how they chose to describe the C3 idle-state.

The difference is that currently the sleep states the computer is not interactively being used and requires intervention to wake it up. The idle states the computer is interactively being used and don;t require anything to bring it into the active state.

Now that distinction is blurred with Haswell, where they have named some new low power interactive states as sleep states (but also refer to them as idle states). I would guess there might have been some internal disagreements on whether to call the sleep (S) or idle (C) states.


----------



## error-id10t

Ok thanks but hmmm lol it won't, can't help but laugh seeing as I knew it was bad .. appears it's even worse than I thought or maybe I've killed it enough during my use. It should last until next chipset/CPUs and I'll decide what to do then, if they're useless I'll just grab a cheap Ivy.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> wow, topic's gone little off topic but I do have a question. I went back to normal/stock settings to replicate what Kizwan did - CDM runs just fine and obviously C states kick in, much harder at times compared to others but when I try and do it with IBT, the computer froze instantly. This is stock, I've never tried it before so is that normal? I know my chip is a POS, just look at my Stable Sandy run but shouldn't it be able to run IBT at stock?


Well the C-states could be lowering your idle enough that it is unstable. Is IBT stable with the C-states disabled now?


----------



## GeneO

I performed an unsophisticated test of the affect of C-states on SSD performance within time constraints I have, My goal was to 1. Demonstrate that this isn't just and AS-SSD effect and 2. Crudely show its dependence on load. The effect isn't big in these test and that is not surprising as they are mixed read/write. FWIW









I really didn't do C-states off because I didn't want to keep going back and forth to the BIOS to change settings. Instead I ran P95 blend in one thread - that effectively removes idle states and is equivalent to turning them off. The P95 run is the base and labeled P95 (Base).

I ran Anvil with a 4k read./write mix with 2 threads (I also did a 6 thread run). I took 5 runs each and calculated the mean and standard deviation. Here are the loads I ran concurrent with Anvil:

P95 (base)
no P95
no P95 with Amazon prime video playing
no P95 with IE fish running in Chrome and Firefox. I have included a screenshot of what that load looks like)



I give the average MB/s and the sigma and what percent less the result is than with P95 load

P95 base (no C idle states, i.e. C0)
51.6 0.17
Idle load
47.0 1.09 (9.8% less)
Streaming Movie load
46.68 0 .65 (10.2 % less)
IE fish load
48.9 0.43 (5% less)

QD=6, P95 load
74.98 0.36
QD=6, idle load
78.52 0.19 (5.2% less)

Conclusion is that there is an effect even at moderately light loads. A movie playing had the same results as idle, but running something more compute intensive lessened the effect. The idle load shows a lot more variation than the P95 load (sigma of 1.09 vs 0.17), which is to be expected from the random-like occurrences of the idle-states kicking in.

Nothing to get your knickers in a knot I guess. If I ever get time I will try and find something more real-world.


----------



## sinnedone

Thank you all who have been discussing the c states these past couple of days. have helped alot.

I have another question.....

How can you accurately tell what your vrm temp is on a p8p67 pro rev 3.1 motherboard?

Is the "motherboard" temp in ai suite the vrm temp or some random point on the motherboard?

I am trying to get the airflow right in my case and want to see if it makes a difference in vrm temps.


----------



## GeneO

I believe the Motherboard temperature is measured on one of the MB controller chips, like the Nuvoton. It could be off chip - the CPU temperature measured by the Nuvoton must be off chip. So I guess random may be accurate.

I don't think there is any measure of the VRM temp on these boards - I wish.


----------



## sinnedone

So im going to have to get all touchy feely with my heatsinks then. lol









If I had one of those infrared thermometers it would probaly help. Might be a little to expensive just to try and get my airflow right though.


----------



## geoxile

I've had the lights for a while and I don't think I have any system restore points. I tried other USB ports ans they're all the same. It's just the LED strip that has a problem.


----------



## BLAMM0

hi, i have a P8Z68-V pro/gen3. wanted to ask if it also shows the post screen 2 times for you? it's a little annoying, because the pc would boot up faster, if it would be shown only once







thanks


----------



## sinnedone

you have to go into the bios and select "keep current" I believe in one of the post options on the second to last tab.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> hi, i have a P8Z68-V pro/gen3. wanted to ask if it also shows the post screen 2 times for you? it's a little annoying, because the pc would boot up faster, if it would be shown only once
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by [email protected];4712067
> Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I'll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.
> 
> First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
> From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to 'Advanced' tab -> go down to 'APM', press Enter -> enable the "Power on by PCIe." function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.


Also there's a false double post because of the Marvell (Which controls the two Navy Blue SATA connectors topmost on the board) controller which detects no harddrive and loops you back to the main screen, and then back to the Marvell screen yet again? If you don't use it you can disable it in bios. Same goes for the JMicron controller which handles the E-Sata at the back of the board. Under "Advanced" tab in UEFI.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> hi, i have a P8Z68-V pro/gen3. wanted to ask if it also shows the post screen 2 times for you? it's a little annoying, because the pc would boot up faster, if it would be shown only once
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Here's how to fix this (it's actually nothing to "fix", really)


Go into the advanced part of the UEFI as opposed to the EZ Mode.
Switch to the Advanced tab.
Select "Onboard Devices Configuration"
Disable "Marvell Storage Controller"
Disable "JMB Storage Controller"
Press F10 to save and exit.

Note: disabling the Marvell Storage Controller turns off the dark blue SATA ports. Disabling the JMB Storage Controller turns off the eSATA functionality. So, be careful.

I also recommend disabling the logo screen:


In the UEFI again, switch to the Boot tab
Disable "Full Screen Logo"
Press F10

Note: You'll need to practice holding down the Delete key in order to get back into the BIOS because the POST will be faster and it won't be as obvious regarding when to begin pressing Del. So, experiment and you'll find a spot where you really only need to hold it down for maybe 3-4 seconds.


----------



## geoxile

Well I'm running out of options. I just flashed to the latest BIOS and nothing's changed. The only thing I haven't tried is clearing the CMOS.

Edit: Not sure what I did but it's solved


----------



## BLAMM0

I tried disabling everything that isn't used, that included the marvel and the jmicron controllers, but I know, that I havent tried disabling the logo when disabling those controllers. A similar board I chose for my dads pc P8Z68-v or P8Z68-v lx, I don't remember now, but it certainly boots up faster than my more expensive motherboard







BIOS is latest, and thanks for the replies


----------



## kevindd992002

When Enabling C3 and C6 why do others put them at Auto and not Enabled?


----------



## malmental

I leave them or put them on 'auto'..
why, I dunno, so just let the operational control of the mobo do it.









I think they are enabled or on auto anyways are they not.?


----------



## General121

So I think this board( ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3) is very special








First three times I set to "optimized defaults" it was normal 3.3ghz 2500k. Then the next few times it sets it to like 3.6ghz. Now for awhile the 'optimized default' has been setting it to 4.3ghz. I looked in the settings..it sets the BCLK to 103







Yet I am having no issues - Is that normal??!


----------



## malmental

BLK has been reported to go up to 108-109 before and usually 'auto tune' features use the BLK
it's the DIY overclockers do not use the BLK that much, keep it @ 100 and just push the CPU multi.
but 103 from an 'auto tune' is actually quite common.

a few simple clicks in the BIOS and I bet for the voltage your 'auto tune' is giving you
we can clock it higher on less.
at least from everytime I have seen one...


----------



## General121

I gave up ocing lol. Either my chip is bad or the board sucks. With any oc now it requires more than most for 4.7ghz+ and when I even do a mild 4.5ghz with enough voltage, the system can randomly lock up or not bring the screen back up after I have turned the monitor off overnight


----------



## sinnedone

yup same here.

I tried auto tune once. It gage me like 4.2 on 1.4v with a 103 blck or something like that. I was like "NO" I dont think so.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> I tried disabling everything that isn't used, that included the marvel and the jmicron controllers, but I know, that I havent tried disabling the logo when disabling those controllers. A similar board I chose for my dads pc P8Z68-v or P8Z68-v lx, I don't remember now, but it certainly boots up faster than my more expensive motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BIOS is latest, and thanks for the replies


So are you saying that it's still showing the ASUS splash screen twice?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> When Enabling C3 and C6 why do others put them at Auto and not Enabled?


Because Auto is the default setting which means they're not changing the setting at all.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> So I think this board( ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3) is very special
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First three times I set to "optimized defaults" it was normal 3.3ghz 2500k. Then the next few times it sets it to like 3.6ghz. Now for awhile the 'optimized default' has been setting it to 4.3ghz. I looked in the settings..it sets the BCLK to 103
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yet I am having no issues - Is that normal??!


By chance did the EPU switch move to the enabled position. This has the same effect as enabling it in bios. Check the led associated with the EPU feature. You can refer to a clip from your manual below for more info and location.



edit: replaced image with correct mobo manual image


----------



## General121

I'll look but I do not think so


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Because Auto is the default setting which means they're not changing the setting at all.


So you recommend Enabled?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So you recommend Enabled?


To be honest, I don't know what the difference is between Auto and Enabled for C3 and C6. I guess I still recommend Enabled because at least then you know it's always enabled and ready to go.


----------



## kevindd992002

Ah. Thanks.


----------



## TwoCables

Of course, that doesn't necessarily mean that Auto means it's *not* always ready to go.


----------



## BLAMM0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> So are you saying that it's still showing the ASUS splash screen twice?
> 
> Because Auto is the default setting which means they're not changing the setting at all.


Yes it still does, well I'll try to disable those controllers and the logo screen now and see what happens


----------



## speedlever

Wow. Where was all this C states discussion when I was piddling with my P8Z68V-Pro (gen1) and i5-2500k about a year and a half ago?! I couldn't find anything at the time to help understand the C states.

IIRC, I left the C states enabled and run a negative offset (haven't messed with the settings in a loooong time). I also haven't upgraded the BIOS past 1101 either and run a very mild OC of 4.2. I have pretty low idle Vcore, if Open HW Monitor is showing accurate numbers. I did a lot of piddling on it at the time and there was a reason for my settings... which I've long since forgotten! I don't think my chip is in the top tier as I had trouble pushing it past a 4.5x OC.



Edit: I noted after posting that my sig shows a 4.4x OC. I changed to 4.2x a long time ago and haven't bothered to update the sig. Just in case anyone notes the discrepancy.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> Yes it still does, well I'll try to disable those controllers and the logo screen now and see what happens


I thought you said that you disabled the Marvell and JMB controllers already.


----------



## BLAMM0

I had in the past







like a year ago, checked yesterday, I think that my head forgot 1 small detail, one of the controllers wasn't disabled, now everything is fine


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> I had in the past
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like a year ago, checked yesterday, I think that my head forgot 1 small detail, one of the controllers wasn't disabled, now everything is fine


Oh cool.

Now for an even faster boot, I still recommend disabling Full Screen Logo. In addition, I recommend disabling Internal PLL Overvoltage because that eats up about 2-3 seconds too.


----------



## Daffie82

Quick question : are people here keeping all drivers/firmware up to date to the latest versions ??
talking about the ovious ones like audio/LAN and sata chipsets...

I have my PC now since march 2012 and everything is pretty up to date, but if you need to keep it really current you are updating like every 2 weeks...

Not sure if that is really needed, so thats why I'm seeking advice/experience from other users.
THX !


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Quick question : are people here keeping all drivers/firmware up to date to the latest versions ??
> talking about the ovious ones like audio/LAN and sata chipsets...
> 
> I have my PC now since march 2012 and everything is pretty up to date, but if you need to keep it really current you are updating like every 2 weeks...
> 
> Not sure if that is really needed, so thats why I'm seeking advice/experience from other users.
> THX !


No, because my system is working flawlessly. My BIOS is from 6-27-2011, my SATA driver is from 11-6-2010, my ethernet driver for my Intel port (the only one I use) is from 9-21-2010, and the list goes on. I see no good reason to update.

I also have Windows Update disabled.


----------



## Bytelove

I was looking to trying out Windows 8, my motherboard is P8P67 Deluxe. Is there something that doesn't work, like bluetooth for example. I've been checking the asus drivers page for my board. My understanding is I shouldn't be looking there for the latest drivers as they don't really update the information regularly. I have no problem sticking with W7, until there are stable drivers available. Could someone point out were I can get stable drivers for my board.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bytelove*
> 
> I was looking to trying out Windows 8, my motherboard is P8P67 Deluxe. Is there something that doesn't work, like bluetooth for example. I've been checking the asus drivers page for my board. My understanding is I shouldn't be looking there for the latest drivers as they don't really update the information regularly. I have no problem sticking with W7, until there are stable drivers available. Could someone point out were I can get stable drivers for my board.


Your best bet would be to go to windows.com click on "get started" then "can my PC run Windows 8" which will down load the Windows8-UpgradeAdvisor.exe. Run it. It will not only tell you what hardware is or is not supported but also your personal software. It appears to be very thorough. At that point you can decide if it's worth it to carry on depending on what you might have to live without. My old laptop didn't fair very well the modem and fingerprint reader on the hardware side and Asus Security protect Mgr, Acronis TIH & Proset wifi drivers etc on the software side were incompatible or no drivers found even my screen resolution was incompatible min of 1366x768 required. IN any case GL to you should be much better on your hardware.

Also keep in mind to get the main benefit IMHO of very fast boots you'll need a Z77 with a bios ROM that supports it Z68 will not do for this feature Secure boot requires firmware that supports UEFI v2.3.1 Errata B. Then if you don't have a touch screen monitor it may well not be worth the upgrade either at least that's my understanding others might want to chime in here.


----------



## kevindd992002

Using CPU-Z, how will I observe the idle voltage when the CPU is in the C3 and C6 states?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Using CPU-Z, how will I observe the idle voltage when the CPU is in the C3 and C6 states?


It's only possible to see the C3 state with CPU-Z (or any software, really) because it needs to keep the CPU 'awake' by constantly polling it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's only possible to see the C3 state with CPU-Z (or any software, really) because it needs to keep the CPU 'awake' by constantly polling it.


So just run CPU-Z and note the lowest voltage (while doing nothing) at idle that it records and that is my C3 idle voltage? For C6, the voltage is even lower but you cannot monitor it in any other way?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So just run CPU-Z and note the lowest voltage (while doing nothing) at idle that it records and that is my C6 idle voltage? For C6, the voltage is even lower but you cannot monitor it in any other way?


I believe this is correct, at least based on earlier posts (I think Gene made these posts, I'm not sure now).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I _believe_ this is correct, at least based on earlier posts (I think Gene made these posts, I'm not sure now).


Ok. How will you let the processor go to C6 then?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. How will you let the processor go to C6 then?


I guess by having nothing open that would be frequently using the CPU.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. How will you let the processor go to C6 then?


Whenever C3/C6 states are enabled, CPU will enter C3 or C6 when it not doing anything. Even when CPU is "working", not all cores are awake, some will enter C3/C6 states. The only time CPU doesn't enter C3 & C6 is when all cores are active or when C3/C6 states are disabled in BIOS. Go see my last post for an example. unclewebb also post an example in the same page.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unclewebb*
> 
> RealTemp T|I Edition
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1330144/realtemp-t-i-edition
> 
> I added C State monitoring to the latest version of RealTemp.
> 
> The bios on my Asus desktop board lets you pick and choose what C States the CPU uses so it should be easy to do some SSD comparison benchmarks.
> 
> Even during the middle of a SuperPI bench, individual cores will still be spending a big chunk of time in C6 if this is enabled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using C6, the software reported core voltage becomes a meaningless number. It doesn't matter if core voltage is high or low because 99% of the time, your individual cores will be in C6 getting close to 0 volts. When using C6 you can go with a fixed voltage and even a high multiplier when idle without any measurable difference in power consumption because your cores are in a low power state already.


So which idle voltage is important to avoid idle BSODs? Normal idle voltage, C3 idle voltage, or C6 idle voltage? I'm trying to keep my idle voltages as low as possible without having any BSODs while C3/C6 are enabled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Whenever C3/C6 states are enabled, CPU will enter C3 or C6 when it not doing anything. Even when CPU is "working", not all cores are awake, some will enter C3/C6 states. The only time CPU doesn't enter C3 & C6 is when all cores are active or when C3/C6 states are disabled in BIOS. Go see my last post for an example. unclewebb also post an example in the same page.


I can't find you example here? Can you direct me to it? Thanks.


----------



## kizwan

Idle voltage is whatever vcore when idle. As far as I know there's no such thing as "C3 idle voltage" or "C6 idle voltage".

So, your computer getting BSODs when C3/C6 enabled? If yes, then try increased the vcore. unclewebb explained very well why it doesn't matter if vcore is high or low when using C6.

Download & run the RealTemp T|I version (link in unclewebb's post). Click "C States" button to bring up the C States window.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Idle voltage is whatever vcore when idle. As far as I know there's no such thing as "C3 idle voltage" or "C6 idle voltage".
> 
> So, your computer getting BSODs when C3/C6 enabled? If yes, then try increased the vcore. unclewebb explained very well why it doesn't matter if vcore is high or low when using C6.
> 
> Download & run the RealTemp T|I version (link in unclewebb's post). Click "C States" button to bring up the C States window.


Hmmm, interesting. So why then would most systems, when using Offset, BSODs when C3/C6 are enabled? I wouldn't want to increase vcore because that would also increase my load vcore.


----------



## TwoCables

So then just keep C3 and C6 disabled.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> So then just keep C3 and C6 disabled.


Well, I want their power saving features? In my system, I can increase idle voltage while keeping load voltage constant through the use of Additional Turbo Voltage. With that, would increasing idle voltage solve the BSOD problem when C3 and C6 are enabled?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, I want their power saving features? In my system, I can increase idle voltage while keeping load voltage constant through the use of Additional Turbo Voltage. With that, would increasing idle voltage solve the BSOD problem when C3 and C6 are enabled?


C3 and C6 is only reducing my total system power draw by about 15W.

Anyway, I don't know. The only thing I can recommend is experimentation.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> C3 and C6 is only reducing my total system power draw by about 15W.
> 
> Anyway, I don't know. The only thing I can recommend is experimentation.


And that 15W difference is also evident when your CPU is fully loaded?

What makes my power consumption lower is when I use less LLC. But using less LLC makes my system stable at a higher load vcore than when using higher LLC, I don't know why.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And that 15W difference is also evident when your CPU is fully loaded?
> 
> What makes my power consumption lower is when I use less LLC. But using less LLC makes my system stable at a higher load vcore than when using higher LLC, I don't know why.


I'm only comparing my idle power draw before and after enabling C3 and C6 because that's where I was expecting to see a difference. I know that it's from enabling C3 and C6 because the only time I saw a reduction in my idle power draw is when enabling them regardless of my LLC setting.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm only comparing my idle power draw before and after enabling C3 and C6 because that's where I was expecting to see a difference. I know that it's from enabling C3 and C6 because the only time I saw a reduction in my idle power draw is when enabling them regardless of my LLC setting.


Ok. Do you know how these states affect the stability of the system?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Hmmm, interesting. So why then would most systems, when using Offset, BSODs when C3/C6 are enabled? I wouldn't want to increase vcore because that would also increase my load vcore.


I guess it all depends on the quality of the CPU and/or motherboard.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. Do you know how these states affect the stability of the system?


No, but I'm not worried about it. CPU-Z reports the same voltages with my new settings of Medium LLC, offset +0.065, C3 and C6 enabled. Before I had Ultra High, +0.005V, and C3 and C6 disabled. I always have EIST and C1E enabled.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I guess it all depends on the quality of the CPU and/or motherboard.


With lower LLCs, I can enable them without any problems though. The only downside is that my load vcore should be higher.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, but I'm not worried about it. CPU-Z reports the same voltages with my new settings of Medium LLC, offset +0.065, C3 and C6 enabled. Before I had Ultra High, +0.005V, and C3 and C6 disabled. I always have EIST and C1E enabled.


Then that simply means that C3 and C6 makes idle voltages lower. Because of you keep them disabled and go to a lower LLC, your idle voltages should definitely be higher because of the higher Offset setting to keep the load vcore fairly the same as when you were with higher LLCs.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> With lower LLCs, I can enable them without any problems though. The only downside is that my load vcore should be higher.


I would think that it's better to have lower load voltages than lower idle voltages. So, I would disable C3 and C6.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Then that simply means that C3 and C6 makes idle voltages lower. Because of you keep them disabled and go to a lower LLC, your idle voltages should definitely be higher because of the higher Offset setting to keep the load vcore fairly the same as when you were with higher LLCs.


Yeah, but my idle and load voltages are identical to what they were before according to CPU-Z. So the only things I think I changed are the idle power consumption and probably my VRM temps. One nice thing about lowering VRM temps is it can help increase (or achieve) system stability.

I forgot that I also have Phase Control set to Optimized, and Duty Control set to T. Probe. I used to have both set to Extreme.

There's one nice benefit that I got from all of these changes: I used to have weird and random brief performance hiccups while watching DVDs. Well, that has become a thing of the past with these new settings!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, but my idle and load voltages are identical to what they were before according to CPU-Z. So the only things I think I changed are the idle power consumption and probably my VRM temps. One nice thing about lowering VRM temps is it can help increase (or achieve) system stability.
> 
> I forgot that I also have Phase Control set to Optimized, and Duty Control set to T. Probe. I used to have both set to Extreme.
> 
> There's one nice benefit that I got from all of these changes: I used to have weird and random brief performance hiccups while watching DVDs. Well, that has become a thing of the past with these new settings!


Yeah but my point was that enabling c3 and c6 were the ones responsible for having your medium LLC idle voltages equal to your ultra high LLC idle voltages, correct?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah but my point was that enabling c3 and c6 were the ones responsible for having your medium LLC idle voltages equal to your ultra high LLC idle voltages, correct?


I think so, with a combination of my very different Offset.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah but my point was that enabling c3 and c6 were the ones responsible for having your medium LLC idle voltages equal to your ultra high LLC idle voltages, correct?


Have you tried getting help in here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/90

I used this thread basicly to get my nice and stable offset vcore.
Should be lot of knowledge in that thread


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think so, with a combination of my very different Offset.


Yeah.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Have you tried getting help in here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/90
> 
> I used this thread basicly to get my nice and stable offset vcore.
> Should be lot of knowledge in that thread


Do you have c3 and c6 enabled too? I have no problems getting stable when those are disabled.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Do you have c3 and c6 enabled too? I have no problems getting stable when those are disabled.


Can not say out of the top of my head, will check it when I'm home and let you know.
Will post all my settings so you can compare.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Can not say out of the top of my head, will check it when I'm home and let you know.
> Will post all my settings so you can compare.


Thanks. It's just that most people here recommend to disable those states when using Offset because that was the dissiminated info.


----------



## malmental

man been gone a few days and the C-States talk still goes on....
gonna go back and read and then drop my two cents..
I have a negative offset of -0.040, LLC medium and phase control set to optimized.
4.5GHz max voltage is 1.312v and lowest voltage is 0.960.
all C-States are auto or enabled.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> 4.5GHz max voltage is 1.312v and lowest voltage is 0.960.
> all C-States are auto or enabled.


You might want to check whether C States are really enabled or not when setting them to auto. On my computer, currently overclocked, with C3/C6 states set to auto, they're actually disabled. I didn't check with stock clock though. You can check them using RealTemp T|I version from a couple pages back. If they always 0% when idle, that means C3/C6 states are disabled.


----------



## unclewebb

As soon as you start overclocking, many motherboards disable the C States automatically. When using the bios AUTO setting, you will have no idea if they are enabled or not unless you do some testing with the RealTemp T|I Edition.

My opinion is that C3 and C6 get the blame for instability issues when the real problem is the offset voltages that are being used.

When using C3 and C6, use a fixed voltage. CPU-Z should report the same speed and voltage whether your CPU is idle or fully loaded. Users still have these beliefs that this will waste power, create extra heat when idle or cause unnecessary wear on their CPU. None of that is true when using C6.

When set up like this, your CPU will be getting its fixed voltage when it is in the C0 state working on a task and as soon as it finishes a task, it will immediately drop down to C6 where the voltage drops down to nearly zero. Your cores will rapidly transition back and forth between C0 and C6 and they will spend as little time as possible in all of the other intermediate C States. That is exactly what you want. When a task needs to be completed, you want the CPU core to quickly get into C0, work at full speed, get the task done and then get back into C6 as soon as possible. The faster your CPU works in C0, the bigger percentage of time it will be able to spend in C6, running cool and saving power. When using C6, you should also be using the Windows High Performance profile. Running a CPU slowly to save power is a myth.

Power Optimization - a Reality Check
http://www.cs.berkeley.edu/~krioukov/realityCheck.pdf


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unclewebb*
> 
> As soon as you start overclocking, many motherboards disable the C States automatically. When using the bios AUTO setting, you will have no idea if they are enabled or not unless you do some testing with the RealTemp T|I Edition.
> 
> My opinion is that C3 and C6 get the blame for instability issues when the real problem is the offset voltages that are being used.
> 
> When using C3 and C6, use a fixed voltage. CPU-Z should report the same speed and voltage whether your CPU is idle or fully loaded. Users still have these beliefs that this will waste power, create extra heat when idle or cause unnecessary wear on their CPU. None of that is true when using C6.
> 
> When set up like this, your CPU will be getting its fixed voltage when it is in the C0 state working on a task and as soon as it finishes a task, it will immediately drop down to C6 where the voltage drops down to nearly zero. Your cores will rapidly transition back and forth between C0 and C6 and they will spend as little time as possible in all of the other intermediate C States. That is exactly what you want. When a task needs to be completed, you want the CPU core to quickly get into C0, work at full speed, get the task done and then get back into C6 as soon as possible. The faster your CPU works in C0, the bigger percentage of time it will be able to spend in C6, running cool and saving power. When using C6, you should also be using the Windows High Performance profile. Running a CPU slowly to save power is a myth.
> 
> Power Optimization - a Reality Check
> http://www.cs.berkeley.edu/~krioukov/realityCheck.pdf


Hmmm, this is interesting. This could change all the explanations regarding power saving benefits of Offset.

In my case, why is it that when I enable C3 and C6 I immediately get a BSOD upon entering Windows? I'm using Offset and am stable when these two states are disabled. What is the relation of Offset to these two states?


----------



## malmental

after we all get to the bottom of this can we consider ourselves ASUS mobo masters...








this is really some educational crap going on.
rename this to the Ultimate ASUS mobo P8 thread.


----------



## sinnedone

lol

I too am amazed how my simple question about c states turned into a multipaged week long discussion.









Sad part is I havent had anytime to up my clock. Have to find out what my stable voltage for 4.5 onmy 2500k is first then I can start playing with offset mode again.


----------



## malmental

it is fun tuning or re-tuning clocks, especially after you learn about new tricks / techniques that might be beneficial.
just a learning process in general is cool.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> it is fun tuning or re-tuning clocks, especially after you learn about new tricks / techniques that might be beneficial.
> just a learning process in general is cool.


Couldn't agree more. And it takes a lot of patience when experimenting


----------



## sinnedone

A long process indeed.

Fun as well, so long your daughter doesnt start working on her school project only to get blue screened on an unstable overclock!


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Hmmm, this is interesting. This could change all the explanations regarding power saving benefits of Offset.
> 
> In my case, why is it that when I enable C3 and C6 I immediately get a BSOD upon entering Windows? I'm using Offset and am stable when these two states are disabled. What is the relation of Offset to these two states?


As I promised here are my settings for my offset usage (you can find the details in my sig)

Internal PLL overvoltage : Disabled
EPU power saving mode : Disabled
L-L Calibration : Regular
VRM Freq : Manual
VRM Freq mode : 350
Phase control : Optimized
Duty Control : T.Probe
CPU Current capability : 100%
CPU Offset : + 0,025 (lower will give BSOD)
DRAM voltage : 1.50000
VCCIO Volt : Auto
CPU PLL volt : 1.71250
Other voltages on auto
CPU spread spectrum : auto
CPU ratio : auto
Enhanced intel speedstep : enabled
turbo mode : enabled
turbo mode parameters all on auto
intel adaptive thermal monitor : enabled
active processor cores : all
limit CPUID max : disabled
execute disable bit : enabled
CPU C1E : Enabled
C3 : DISABLED
C6 : DISABLED
Intel virtualization technology : disabled
High precision timer : enabled

Reason for turning of C3 and C6 is it gave me about 1,5% more FPS in games and benches (really I did extensive testing both times with only these 2 settings differently)

Good luck !


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> As I promised here are my settings for my offset usage (you can find the details in my sig)
> 
> Internal PLL overvoltage : Disabled
> EPU power saving mode : Disabled
> L-L Calibration : Regular
> VRM Freq : Manual
> VRM Freq mode : 350
> Phase control : Optimized
> Duty Control : T.Probe
> CPU Current capability : 100%
> CPU Offset : + 0,025 (lower will give BSOD)
> DRAM voltage : 1.50000
> VCCIO Volt : Auto
> CPU PLL volt : 1.71250
> Other voltages on auto
> CPU spread spectrum : auto
> CPU ratio : auto
> Enhanced intel speedstep : enabled
> turbo mode : enabled
> turbo mode parameters all on auto
> intel adaptive thermal monitor : enabled
> active processor cores : all
> limit CPUID max : disabled
> execute disable bit : enabled
> CPU C1E : Enabled
> C3 : DISABLED
> C6 : DISABLED
> Intel virtualization technology : disabled
> High precision timer : enabled
> 
> Reason for turning of C3 and C6 is it gave me about 1,5% more FPS in games and benches (really I did extensive testing both times with only these 2 settings differently)
> 
> Good luck !


Oh ok. Other than that you can enable them without any BSODs?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks. It's just that most people here recommend to disable those states when using Offset because that was the dissiminated info.


I made my recommendation based off my own experience.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I made my recommendation based off my own experience.


It wasn't just you who recommended that. Almost all hits I get from a Google search recommend to disable C states when using Offset.

What Unclewebb is saying about using Fixed voltage instead of Offset voltage is very interesting and would like to understand more about it. Unclewebb, can you please enlighten us further on this?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> man been gone a few days and the C-States talk still goes on....
> gonna go back and read and then drop my two cents..
> I have a negative offset of -0.040, LLC medium and phase control set to optimized.
> 4.5GHz max voltage is 1.312v and lowest voltage is 0.960.
> all C-States are auto or enabled.


Do you also have Duty Control set to T. Probe?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unclewebb*
> 
> As soon as you start overclocking, many motherboards disable the C States automatically. When using the bios AUTO setting, you will have no idea if they are enabled or not unless you do some testing with the RealTemp T|I Edition.
> 
> My opinion is that C3 and C6 get the blame for instability issues when the real problem is the offset voltages that are being used.
> 
> When using C3 and C6, use a fixed voltage. CPU-Z should report the same speed and voltage whether your CPU is idle or fully loaded. Users still have these beliefs that this will waste power, create extra heat when idle or cause unnecessary wear on their CPU. None of that is true when using C6.
> 
> When set up like this, your CPU will be getting its fixed voltage when it is in the C0 state working on a task and as soon as it finishes a task, it will immediately drop down to C6 where the voltage drops down to nearly zero. Your cores will rapidly transition back and forth between C0 and C6 and they will spend as little time as possible in all of the other intermediate C States. That is exactly what you want. When a task needs to be completed, you want the CPU core to quickly get into C0, work at full speed, get the task done and then get back into C6 as soon as possible. The faster your CPU works in C0, the bigger percentage of time it will be able to spend in C6, running cool and saving power. When using C6, you should also be using the Windows High Performance profile. Running a CPU slowly to save power is a myth.
> 
> Power Optimization - a Reality Check
> http://www.cs.berkeley.edu/~krioukov/realityCheck.pdf


Thank you. I'll begin reading this in a little while.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Hmmm, this is interesting. This could change all the explanations regarding power saving benefits of Offset.


For me, it was to reduce the unnecessary extra wear that I assumed would be caused by using the fixed voltage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> In my case, why is it that when I enable C3 and C6 I immediately get a BSOD upon entering Windows? I'm using Offset and am stable when these two states are disabled. What is the relation of Offset to these two states?


Because your offset isn't high enough.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> As I promised here are my settings for my offset usage (you can find the details in my sig)
> 
> Internal PLL overvoltage : Disabled
> EPU power saving mode : Disabled
> L-L Calibration : Regular
> VRM Freq : Manual
> VRM Freq mode : 350
> Phase control : Optimized
> Duty Control : T.Probe
> CPU Current capability : 100%
> CPU Offset : + 0,025 (lower will give BSOD)
> DRAM voltage : 1.50000
> VCCIO Volt : Auto
> CPU PLL volt : 1.71250
> Other voltages on auto
> CPU spread spectrum : auto
> CPU ratio : auto
> Enhanced intel speedstep : enabled
> turbo mode : enabled
> turbo mode parameters all on auto
> intel adaptive thermal monitor : enabled
> active processor cores : all
> limit CPUID max : disabled
> execute disable bit : enabled
> CPU C1E : Enabled
> C3 : DISABLED
> C6 : DISABLED
> Intel virtualization technology : disabled
> High precision timer : enabled
> 
> Reason for turning of C3 and C6 is it gave me about 1,5% more FPS in games and benches (really I did extensive testing both times with only these 2 settings differently)
> 
> Good luck !


The VRM Frequency can be set to Auto. Using Manual with a setting of 350 is only really needed for higher multipliers. If you're still at 4.5 GHz, then this setting isn't making a difference.

You can disable CPU Spread Spectrum, especially if you have ever noticed your BCLK sitting at 99.8 MHz.

Based on what Unclewebb said, we may all be better off using a Manual voltage with C3 and C6 enabled.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> It wasn't just you who recommended that. Almost all hits I get from a Google search recommend to disable C states when using Offset.
> 
> What Unclewebb is saying about using Fixed voltage instead of Offset voltage is very interesting and would like to understand more about it. Unclewebb, can you please enlighten us further on this?


I know that it wasn't just me.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Do you also have Duty Control set to T. Probe?
> 
> Thank you. I'll begin reading this in a little while.
> 
> For me, it was to reduce the unnecessary extra wear that I assumed would be caused by using the fixed voltage.
> 
> Because your offset isn't high enough.
> 
> The VRM Frequency can be set to Auto. Using Manual with a setting of 350 is only really needed for higher multipliers. If you're still at 4.5 GHz, then this setting isn't making a difference.
> 
> You can disable CPU Spread Spectrum, especially if you have ever noticed your BCLK sitting at 99.8 MHz.
> 
> Based on what Unclewebb said, we may all be better off using a Manual voltage with C3 and C6 enabled.
> 
> I know that it wasn't just me.


Oh ok. What about for 47x, is the VRM frequency recommended to be set to Auto as well?

Yes, I'm actually modifying my Offset value now in order for me to use C3/C6 without BSODing.

Regarding LLC, why is that when I am on Medium LLC the max voltage when running IBT is lower than the max voltage when running Prime95? I'm trying to decrease my LLC and I seemingly can't understand why this is happening. I'll try to relay my stability settings:

I'm stable at 47x, UH LLC, and 1.44V. With UH LLC, I see 1.44V in both IBT and P95 tests.

When decreasing it to Medium LLC, I modify Offset and Additional Turbo Voltage in such a way that I see 1.44V again in P95, no problems there. But the problem is that when I run IBT, I see only around 1.32V which makes it unstable in IBT. My personal target is to pass both programs' stability tests.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. What about for 47x, is the VRM frequency recommended to be set to Auto as well?


From what I've seen, yes. I'm using Auto and it's fine. The "template" in the original post does not match my current settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yes, I'm actually modifying my Offset value now in order for me to use C3/C6 without BSODing.


Why not just set it to Manual like Unclewebb recommended? I would, but I need to clean out the interior of my computer before I do anything that generates heat (such as testing stability).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Regarding LLC, why is that when I am on Medium LLC the max voltage when running IBT is lower than the max voltage when running Prime95? I'm trying to decrease my LLC and I seemingly can't understand why this is happening. I'll try to relay my stability settings:


That's vDroop. The more intense the load, the further down the voltage droops. However, this does not mean that IBT is better than Prime95; it's just different.

This is easier to see with a Manual voltage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm stable at 47x, UH LLC, and 1.44V. With UH LLC, I see 1.44V in both IBT and P95 tests.


That's because there's much less vDroop (probably none).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> When decreasing it to Medium LLC, I modify Offset and Additional Turbo Voltage in such a way that I see 1.44V again in P95, no problems there. But the problem is that when I run IBT, I see only around 1.32V which makes it unstable in IBT. My personal target is to pass both programs' stability tests.


I think that this could be an argument for using a higher LLC setting. However, the higher the LLC setting, the hotter your VRM gets. The hotter your VRM gets, the greater the chances are of that causing instability.

I overclocked in the 2nd week of July of 2011 and I never tested my stability with Linpack (IBT, LinX, or others), yet my system has been working flawlessly this entire time.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> From what I've seen, yes. I'm using Auto and it's fine. The "template" in the original post does not match my current settings.
> 
> Why not just set it to Manual like Unclewebb recommended? I would, but I need to clean out the interior of my computer before I do anything that generates heat (such as testing stability).
> 
> That's vDroop. The more intense the load, the further down the voltage droops. However, this does not mean that IBT is better than Prime95; it's just different.
> 
> This is easier to see with a Manual voltage.
> 
> That's because there's much less vDroop (probably none).
> 
> I think that this could be an argument for using a higher LLC setting. However, the higher the LLC setting, the hotter your VRM gets. The hotter your VRM gets, the greater the chances are of that causing instability.
> 
> I overclocked in the 2nd week of July of 2011 and I never tested my stability with Linpack (IBT, LinX, or others), yet my system has been working flawlessly this entire time.


Oh ok. I'll try Auto for VRM frequrncy then. But how does the Auto mechanism of this work though? It might be setting it higher than 350 for all we know?

I might try Manual, yes, but wouldn't Offset plus C3/C6 enabled be better anyway? You get the best of both worlds with that, don't you? Unless there is really a good thing with using Offset? That's why I would appreciate if Unclewebb could expand on this topic more.

Just as I expected that IBT puts more load on the CPU which means more VDroop for the vcore when set to Medium LLC. That means overall your vcore voltages would be higher, that is if you want to be stable at IBT also. I get it that some people only want to be P95 stable.

Well, if lower LLCs do produce better stability then I'm expexting that for the same multiplier it can be stable at a lower vcore. Does that make sense?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. I'll try Auto for VRM frequrncy then. But how does the Auto mechanism of this work though? It might be setting it higher than 350 for all we know?


The part about the VRM Frequency setting is for Daffie82.

Anyway, I don't know the answer and I'm honestly not worried about it. I really don't see any reason to worry about it. If you can show me some reasons for concern, then I'll consider worrying about it. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I might try Manual, yes, but wouldn't Offset plus C3/C6 enabled be better anyway? You get the best of both worlds with that, don't you? Unless there is really a good thing with using Offset? That's why I would appreciate if Unclewebb could expand on this topic more.


He did, plus he posted the link to the PDF which probably explains it even better than he did. It's only 5 pages long and I'm planning on reading it when I have time.

After reading what he posted, I have the impression that a fixed voltage is far better. Read it again to see why.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Just as I expected that IBT puts more load on the CPU which means more VDroop for the vcore when set to Medium LLC. That means overall your vcore voltages would be higher, that is if you want to be stable at IBT also. I get it that some people only want to be P95 stable.


The lower the LLC setting, the more normal the vDroop behavior is. Higher LLC levels restricts vDroop more and more.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, if lower LLCs do produce better stability then I'm expexting that for the same multiplier it can be stable at a lower vcore. Does that make sense?


I don't know if anything should really be expected when it comes to overclocking.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The part about the VRM Frequency setting is for Daffie82.
> 
> Anyway, I don't know the answer and I'm honestly not worried about it. I really don't see any reason to worry about it. If you can show me some reasons for concern, then I'll consider worrying about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He did, plus he posted the link to the PDF which probably explains it even better than he did. It's only 5 pages long and I'm planning on reading it when I have time.
> 
> After reading what he posted, I have the impression that a fixed voltage is far better. Read it again to see why.
> 
> The lower the LLC setting, the more normal the vDroop behavior is. Higher LLC levels restricts vDroop more and more.
> 
> I don't know if anything should really be _expected_ when it comes to overclocking.


Ok. But personally, are you using Auto at 47x?

The pdf didn't work earlier. I'll try to access it again.

What do you mean by the vdroop behavior is more "normal"?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. But personally, are you using Auto at 47x?


Yep. Here are my current settings:

*Ai Tweaker*


*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 47
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-10-9-28-2T
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*


*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)


*Load-Line Calibration:* Medium
*VRM Frequency:* Auto
*Phase Control:* Optimized
*Duty Control:* T. Probe
*CPU Current Capability:* 100%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.065V
*DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V (I think this means I don't have a very good IMC)
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled (but Z68 boards are better with this disabled)

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*


*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Enabled
*CPU C6 Report:* Enabled

So yeah, everything's fine with these settings for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> The pdf didn't work earlier. I'll try to access it again.


If you continue having problems with the link, then I can provide you a link that works. I would just need to upload it first.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What do you mean by the vdroop behavior is more "normal"?


vDroop is a normal behavior. It's an intentional design. The higher the LLC level, the more restricted vDroop becomes (the less freedom it has to do what it's designed to do: droop under load). This is why Ultra High pretty much results in no vDroop: it's restricting it so much that it's almost right in the middle between vDroop and vRise. Using Extreme would give you vRise.

So using no LLC allows full normal vDroop behavior.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The VRM Frequency can be set to Auto. Using Manual with a setting of 350 is only really needed for higher multipliers. If you're still at 4.5 GHz, then this setting isn't making a difference.
> 
> You can disable CPU Spread Spectrum, especially if you have ever noticed your BCLK sitting at 99.8 MHz.
> 
> Based on what Unclewebb said, we may all be better off using a Manual voltage with C3 and C6 enabled.


Thanks for these tips, +rep
Will try and change those 2 settings, shouldnt effect my stability anyway I guess
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. Other than that you can enable them without any BSODs?


Yes I can, I did weeks of testing and using my PC with these 2 settings ENABLED.
I just disabled them for the little FPS gain in games


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Thanks for these tips, +rep
> Will try and change those 2 settings, shouldnt effect my stability anyway I guess


You're right, your stability will be unaffected.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yep. Here are my current settings:
> 
> *Ai Tweaker*
> 
> [*] *Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
> [*] *BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
> [*] *Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
> [*] *By All Cores:* 47
> [*] *Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
> [*] *Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
> [*] *DRAM Timing Control:* 9-10-9-28-2T
> [*] *EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled
> 
> *Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*
> 
> [*] *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> [*] *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> [*] *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> [*] *Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> [*] *Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
> [*] *Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
> [*] *Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
> [*] *Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto
> 
> *Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> [*] *Load-Line Calibration:* Medium
> [*] *VRM Frequency:* Auto
> [*] *Phase Control:* Optimized
> [*] *Duty Control:* T. Probe
> [*] *CPU Current Capability:* 100%
> [*] *CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
> [*] *Offset Mode Sign:* +
> [*] *CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.065V
> [*] *DRAM Voltage:* 1.5000V
> [*] *VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
> [*] *VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V (I think this means I don't have a very good IMC)
> [*] *CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
> [*] *PCH Voltage:* Auto
> [*] *CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled (but Z68 boards are better with this disabled)
> 
> *Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*
> 
> [*] *CPU Ratio:* Auto
> [*] *Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
> [*] *Active Processor Cores:* All
> [*] *Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
> [*] *Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
> [*] *Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
> [*] *Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
> [*] *Turbo Mode:* Enabled
> [*] *CPU C1E:* Enabled
> [*] *CPU C3 Report:* Enabled
> [*] *CPU C6 Report:* Enabled
> 
> So yeah, everything's fine with these settings for me.
> 
> If you continue having problems with the link, then I can provide you a link that works. I would just need to upload it first.
> 
> vDroop is a normal behavior. It's an intentional design. The higher the LLC level, the more restricted vDroop becomes (the less freedom it has to do what it's designed to do: droop under load). This is why Ultra High pretty much results in no vDroop: it's restricting it so much that it's almost right in the middle between vDroop and vRise. Using Extreme would give you vRise.
> 
> So using no LLC allows full normal vDroop behavior.


Thanks for the explanation. My current capability is at 130% right now. I'll try to change to 100 as well.

I'm mobile right now, I have to check that pdf when I get home.

Gotcha on the vDroop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Thanks for these tips, +rep
> Will try and change those 2 settings, shouldnt effect my stability anyway I guess
> Yes I can, I did weeks of testing and using my PC with these 2 settings ENABLED.
> I just disabled them for the little FPS gain in games


Oh ok. How high of an FPS gain again did you notice?


----------



## malmental

Duty Control - Thermal


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation. My current capability is at 130% right now. I'll try to change to 100 as well.


You're welcome!

I forgot to mention my change to 100%.  I couldn't find any guides anywhere that recommended anything above 100% for 4.7 to 4.8 GHz. So, I don't know why I was using 140%!

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm mobile right now, I have to check that pdf when I get home.


Ok cool.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> Duty Control - Thermal


Oh, that must be the same as T. Probe. Is your other option called "Current"? If so, then I'm right.


----------



## malmental

too early in the morning, I meant T. Probe...








not sure about the 'current', I have to go back and check.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> too early in the morning, I meant T. Probe...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure about the 'current', I have to go back and check.


Oh, I was beginning to think that the new BIOS had new names for some of the settings! So if you're using T. Probe, then the other setting is Extreme which is an even balance of current instead of temperature among the phases.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. How high of an FPS gain again did you notice?


1,5 %


----------



## TwoCables

Ah, the pursuit of performance!


----------



## TwoCables

I hope I'm not speaking too soon, but I think the recent changes I made to my settings has been a miracle cure for some problems I've been dealing with ever since I overclocked back in July of 2011. I mean, they aren't exactly problems that I would have associated with an unstable system! I just thought that it was Windows being buggy or something.

Problem #1: DVD playback would sometimes give me a little hiccup in performance where sometimes the audio would break up for maybe 1 whole second, or maybe I'd get a few pixels for about 1 whole second. This no longer happens.

Problem #2: If I paused a DVD and browsed the internet for too long, then my audio would stop working after a while. I use the traditional 'click' sound when I click links, so that's how I know. The usual way to fix this is to close both Firefox and Corel WinDVD and open then back up. Sometimes that doesn't work and I have to reboot.

Problem #3: This is similar to #2 and it has to do with MP3s. Twice a week, I listen to the archive of a bi-weekly 3-hour internet radio program because I don't like the idea of listening to it live and not being able to control it (pause, rewind, or especially skipping ahead). If I pause it and then start browsing the internet for a while, my audio will eventually quit working. Sometimes I can fix this by closing Firefox and opening it back up while leaving my MP3 player open. Other times I have to close my MP3 player too. However, sometimes I lose the ability to play any MP3s at all and my audio never comes back either. lol So that forces me to reboot. So far, it seems that this no longer happens! 

Problem #4: Sometimes the very first Windows sound that gets played on a fresh boot (such as the "traditional click sound" I mentioned above) takes a second or two to actually play. So in other words, the first sound after a fresh boot is always delayed. It seems that this no longer happens either!

*Here are the old settings in question:*

LLC: Ultra High

Phase Control: Extreme

Duty Control: Extreme

CPU Offset Voltage: +0.005V

C3 and C6: Disabled

*Here are my new settings*:

LLC: Medium

Phase Control: Optimized

Duty Control: T. Probe

CPU Offset Voltage: +0.065V

C3 and C6: Enabled

So, this just increased my stability quite a bit. lol However, my system was able to pass 24 hours of Prime95's Custom Blend test using about 90% of my memory. This is in Prime95 v27.7 build 2 as well! So, go figure. 

Sometime in the future I will be changing to a Manual voltage because of what unclewebb posted.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You're welcome!
> 
> I forgot to mention my change to 100%.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't find any guides anywhere that recommended anything above 100% for 4.7 to 4.8 GHz. So, I don't know why I was using 140%!
> 
> Ok cool.


Oh ok. By the way, are those new settings of yours gonna effect the stability of the IMC and affect RAM OCing in any way?

I accessed the pdf properly, time to read.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> 1,5 %


Ok, I can live with C3/C6 enabled and lose that 1.5% performance


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. By the way, are those new settings of yours gonna effect the stability of the IMC and affect RAM OCing in any way?


I have no clue. However, I want to guess that based on how much it's helping my system's stability, I feel this should have a positive effect for everything. Dare I say, I think my system feels just slightly snappier.


----------



## TwoCables

I forgot to say that I have VRM Spread Spectrum enabled. I don't know what difference that makes, but I used to have it disabled. It goes right underneath VRM Frequency which I have set to Auto.

*Edit:* It says in the BIOS "Enable to enhance system stability". So, I don't know, maybe I'll disable it after a few days here to see if this was what made the difference.


----------



## malmental

VRM spread spectrum - disabled


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> VRM spread spectrum - disabled


Oooo... try enabling it.


----------



## malmental

already have and I leave it disabled, voltage fluctuates too much with it enabled to me, I think it ran higher as well.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> already have and I leave it disabled, voltage fluctuates too much with it enabled to me, I think it ran higher as well.


Interesting. I'm seeing no difference in either the idle or Prime95 voltages between enabled and disabled. Are you thinking about CPU Spread Spectrum? Although, I haven't tested with CPU Spread Spectrum disabled.


----------



## malmental

no, CPU Spread Spectrum is disabled in mine as well.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> no, CPU Spread Spectrum is disabled in mine as well.


On all P67 boards, CPU Spread Spectrum does not need to be disabled. I've had mine enabled ever since I built my system and it's been working very well.


----------



## malmental

interesting, got link.?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> interesting, got link.?


No, but I know the following for a fact: on Z68 and Z77 boards, having CPU Spread Spectrum enabled usually results in the BCLK being 99.8 MHz. This doesn't happen to P67 boards, and therefore there's no good reason that I know of to disable CPU Spread Spectrum.


----------



## malmental

but why doesn't it happen to P67 boards, says who.?
I want to see the 'fact'..
not calling you out but I want to read / study for myself.
(or tell me what to Google.. LoL)

and I know about the Z series boards, I have both 68 and 77 boards.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> but why doesn't it happen to P67 boards, says who.?
> I want to see the 'fact'..
> not calling you out but I want to read / study for myself.
> (or tell me what to Google.. LoL)
> 
> and I know about the Z series boards, I have both 68 and 77 boards.


Every P67 owner I've ever met on this message board is proof. The same goes for every Z68 and Z77 owner. Every P67 owner who enables CPU Spread Spectrum has no problems with either their stability or the BCLK going down to 99.8 MHz. Every Z68 and Z77 owner I've ever met on this board needs to keep CPU Spread Spectrum disabled or else the BCLK can go down to 99.8 MHz and stay there. This is how I learned about it.

Try it for yourself. I see that you own both a P67 and Z77. The Z77 is very much like the Z68 in this respect.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Every P67 owner I've ever met on this message board is proof. The same goes for every Z68 and Z77 owner. Every P67 owner who enables CPU Spread Spectrum has no problems with either their stability or the BCLK going down to 99.8 MHz. Every Z68 and Z77 owner I've ever met on this board needs to keep CPU Spread Spectrum *DISABLED* or else the BCLK can go down to 99.8 MHz and stay there. This is how I learned about it.
> 
> Try it for yourself. I see that you own both a P67 and Z77. The Z77 is very much like the Z68 in this respect.


You missed a quite important word there in bold I believe


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> You missed a quite important word there in bold I believe


Ha, I've been awake for 22 hours now. So there. 

*Edit:* Damn, I should have fixed it first so that I could have just said, "What chyoo talkin' about Willis?!"


----------



## malmental

I'm good with the way my settings are, knock on wood my P67 unit is set and runs better than all the other units I have.
runs so good that if it's not broke then don't fix it mentality with this one.
I do not even go into my P67 BIOS that much to tinker with settings but I always leave it disabled, always in all boards.

when I upgrade that unit to Haswell I might play with it before I pack the board up for safe keeping.
(not selling my P67 WS Rev B3 NF200 when done with it..)


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Ha, I've been awake for 22 hours now. So there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Damn, I should have fixed it first so that I could have just said, _"What chyoo talkin' about Willis?!"_


Hehe, yeah you could have done that









By the way just now I changed both VRM and CPU spread spectrum to DISABLED for my board and also changed VRM Freq. to AUTO like you suggested


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Hehe, yeah you could have done that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way just now I changed both VRM and CPU spread spectrum to DISABLED for my board and also changed VRM Freq. to AUTO like you suggested


You can probably leave VRM Spread Spectrum enabled. I have mine enabled. The BIOS says to enable it to enhance system stability, so I did.  I don't know yet if it's the reason for my increased stability, so I'll have to disable it the next time I'm ready to find out (which could very well be tomorrow - I don't know).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Every P67 owner I've ever met on this message board is proof. The same goes for every Z68 and Z77 owner. Every P67 owner who enables CPU Spread Spectrum has no problems with either their stability or the BCLK going down to 99.8 MHz. Every Z68 and Z77 owner I've ever met on this board needs to keep CPU Spread Spectrum disabled or else the BCLK can go down to 99.8 MHz and stay there. This is how I learned about it.
> 
> Try it for yourself. I see that you own both a P67 and Z77. The Z77 is very much like the Z68 in this respect.


Then you haven't met me







In my Z68 board, turning CPU Spread Spectrum to ENABLED or DISABLED practically makes no difference at all. My BCLK is constant a 100MHz at either setting. Why is that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You can probably leave VRM Spread Spectrum enabled. I have mine enabled. The BIOS says to enable it to enhance system stability, so I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know yet if it's the reason for my increased stability, so I'll have to disable it the next time I'm ready to find out (which could very well be tomorrow - I don't know).


Hmmm, haven't read anything about VRM Spread Spectrum yet though. Have you seen any reference to this being enabled aside from what is stated in the BIOS that it enhances stability?


----------



## Daffie82

Here is something I found in another thread here on this forum :

"CPU Spread Spectrum: Modulates the processor clock to reduce radiated noise emissions. Disable if overclocking, as clock modulation will increase instability."
source:
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2787-Maximus-IV-GENE-Z-BIOS-Guide-Overclocking

Not much to find about VRM Spread spectrum though, most I see on google is to disable it...


----------



## kevindd992002

Me too, most say to disable VRM Spread Spectrum unless you are in a lab or something.


----------



## kevindd992002

Me too, most say to disable VRM Spread Spectrum unless you are in a lab or something.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Here is something I found in another thread here on this forum :
> 
> "CPU Spread Spectrum: Modulates the processor clock to reduce radiated noise emissions. Disable if overclocking, as clock modulation will increase instability."
> source:
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2787-Maximus-IV-GENE-Z-BIOS-Guide-Overclocking
> 
> Not much to find about VRM Spread spectrum though, most I see on google is to disable it...


rep that bro....
nice find and I knew I had it disabled for a reason..


----------



## TwoCables

Disabling CPU Spread Spectrum is only necessary for enhancing BCLK overclocking. If you're leaving it at 100.0 MHz, then there's no need to disable CPU Spread Spectrum. The BIOS itself even says that disabling it "might enhance BCLK overclocking ability" (but it doesn't say that it *will*).

Any guide that recommends disabling it while simultaneously recommending leaving the BCLK at 100.0 MHz is simply going by the way it used to be when all overclocking was done by overclocking the FSB. As some of you may remember, we had to disable Spread Spectrum, C1E and EIST in order to enhance FSB overclocking. The same is true for BCLK overclocking. Therefore, if you are not doing any BCLK overclocking, then there's no reason to disable these because it won't make any difference to your system's stability (because you're not touching the BCLK). Disabling CPU Spread Spectrum while leaving the BCLK at 100.0 MHz doesn't make any difference to your system's stability or your overclocking potential.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Disabling CPU Spread Spectrum is only necessary for enhancing BCLK overclocking. If you're leaving it at 100.0 MHz, then there's no need to disable CPU Spread Spectrum. The BIOS itself even says that disabling it "might enhance BCLK overclocking ability" (but it doesn't say that it *will*).
> 
> Any guide that recommends disabling it while simultaneously recommending leaving the BCLK at 100.0 MHz is simply going by the way it used to be when all overclocking was done by overclocking the FSB. As some of you may remember, we had to disable Spread Spectrum, C1E and EIST in order to enhance FSB overclocking. The same is true for BCLK overclocking. Therefore, if you are not doing any BCLK overclocking, then there's no reason to disable these because it won't make any difference to your system's stability (because you're not touching the BCLK). Disabling CPU Spread Spectrum while leaving the BCLK at 100.0 MHz doesn't make any difference to your system's stability or your overclocking potential.


But I thought that with Z68 boards keeping it enabled will produce a 99.8MHz BCLK?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But I thought that with Z68 boards keeping it enabled will produce a 99.8MHz BCLK?


Nothing has changed. Pretend that I added this in the post: "Of course, if you have the Z68 or Z77 chipset, then having CPU Spread Spectrum enabled can result in a BCLK of 99.8 MHz"

I guess I was just assuming that we all know this by now.


----------



## malmental

still, leave it disabled when overclocking...


----------



## GianPi988

Hi to all...

I have the p8p67 rev 3.0 and i want to try using Lucidlogix Virtu mvp 2.0. I don't know if anyone has alredy asked this question because of the hundreds of pages XD
So, can i use Virtu mvp 2.0 on P67 chipset? Or it requires z77 chipsets?


----------



## alancsalt

It was never licenced for P67 chipsets.


----------



## GianPi988

So it can't be used or it's not specifically programmed for p67 chipset but can be used?

EDIT: Ok can't be used just tried...XD


----------



## jevon

For the past few days I've been trying to achieve a stable offset overclock at 48 (BLCK=100) using TwoCables template with *a few exceptions* (note that I have HT disabled because the main app I use is FSX which doesn't give a hoot about hyperthreading):

Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 48
Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140% *(130%)*
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V *(0.030V)*
DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled *(Disabled)*

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Disabled
CPU C6 Report: Disabled

Note: that Offset Voltage gets me a Core Voltage in CPU-Z of about 1.384V - 1.392V
while under full load in Prime95's Blend. So be cautious and adjust accordingly.

I'm trying to achieve the OC as conservatively as possible, thus the slightly lower settings for Offset and CPU Current Capability

So far I've successfully run custom 1344/1792/2688 20-minute tests with Prime95 v27.9-64 and get the following results from RealTemp and CPU-Z:

*Load:*
VID 1.381 - 1.401
Vcore 1.416 - 1.432
Core temps: 74c - 77c

*Idle:*
VID 1.000 - 1.005
Vcore 1.032 - 1.040
Core temps: 31c - 35c

Anyway, I have a few questions:

1. How are the temps? (cooling = Antec Kuhler H2O 920)

2. How are the voltages? With a lower offset mine are higher than TwoCables'. Any settings I can change to further reduce volt requirements or is this simply a result of the characteristics of specific chips? Note: if I drop back to +0.025 offset I sometimes get freezes at the Windows login screen. Does this have anything to do with the Line Load Calibration setting? If I reduce LLC from Ultra High to High will I be more stable at idle? How would this impact power demands under load?

3. I've read about Max TDP (i7-2600k=95w) and that it doesn't have anything to do with the watts being used by the CPU under load, but I still don't understand it completely. During stress tests I'm seeing watt values from 94 - 120. Is this OK?

I realize I have more testing to do, but wanted to get these questions out of the way before I push the OC really hard.

Thanks.


----------



## Daffie82

jevon : I would ask advice here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/180


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jevon*
> 
> For the past few days I've been trying to achieve a stable offset overclock at 48 (BLCK=100) using TwoCables template with *a few exceptions* (note that I have HT disabled because the main app I use is FSX which doesn't give a hoot about hyperthreading):
> 
> Ai Tweaker
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
> BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
> Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
> By All Cores: 48
> Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled
> Memory Frequency: use the rated speed for your memory
> DRAM Timing Control: use the rated timings for your memory
> EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled
> 
> Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Long Duration Maintained: Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
> Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto
> 
> Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)
> 
> Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> VRM Frequency: Manual
> VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
> Phase Control: Extreme
> Duty Control: Extreme
> CPU Current Capability: 140% *(130%)*
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: +
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.040V *(0.030V)*
> DRAM Voltage: use the rated voltage for your memory
> VCCSA Voltage: Auto
> VCCIO Voltage: Auto
> CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
> PCH Voltage: Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled *(Disabled)*
> 
> Advanced\ CPU Configuration >
> 
> CPU Ratio: Auto
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
> Active Processor Cores: All
> Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
> Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
> Turbo Mode: Enabled
> CPU C1E: Enabled
> CPU C3 Report: Disabled
> CPU C6 Report: Disabled
> 
> Note: that Offset Voltage gets me a Core Voltage in CPU-Z of about 1.384V - 1.392V
> while under full load in Prime95's Blend. So be cautious and adjust accordingly.
> 
> I'm trying to achieve the OC as conservatively as possible, thus the slightly lower settings for Offset and CPU Current Capability
> 
> So far I've successfully run custom 1344/1792/2688 20-minute tests with Prime95 v27.9-64 and get the following results from RealTemp and CPU-Z:
> 
> *Load:*
> VID 1.381 - 1.401
> Vcore 1.416 - 1.432
> Core temps: 74c - 77c
> 
> *Idle:*
> VID 1.000 - 1.005
> Vcore 1.032 - 1.040
> Core temps: 31c - 35c
> 
> Anyway, I have a few questions:
> 
> 1. How are the temps? (cooling = Antec Kuhler H2O 920)
> 
> 2. How are the voltages? With a lower offset mine are higher than TwoCables'. Any settings I can change to further reduce volt requirements or is this simply a result of the characteristics of specific chips? Note: if I drop back to +0.025 offset I sometimes get freezes at the Windows login screen. Does this have anything to do with the Line Load Calibration setting? If I reduce LLC from Ultra High to High will I be more stable at idle? How would this impact power demands under load?
> 
> 3. I've read about Max TDP (i7-2600k=95w) and that it doesn't have anything to do with the watts being used by the CPU under load, but I still don't understand it completely. During stress tests I'm seeing watt values from 94 - 120. Is this OK?
> 
> I realize I have more testing to do, but wanted to get these questions out of the way before I push the OC really hard.
> 
> Thanks.



You can leave CPU Spread Spectrum enabled without any problems. I've had mine enabled even for 4.8 GHz with absolutely no problems whatsoever. There are only two reasons for disabling it:


Doing BCLK overclocking instead of just leaving it at 100.0 MHz
If you have a Z68 or Z77 chipset. With CPU Spread Spectrum enabled, the BCLK can end up at 99.8 MHz.


These days, I have CPU Current Capability at 100% because I saw absolutely no difference whatsoever from 140%. Also, none of the guides that I've personally looked at even mention this setting. I always see "100%" sitting there with no mention about why they're leaving it at 100%. So, I don't know why I started using 140%. I guess it's due to what the BIOS says about it, but based on my experience with this setting so far, I have to assume that this is for huge overclocks, like maybe 5 GHz or more.


Regarding running Prime95 and only focusing on just those FFT sizes: do more than just that. With an overclock like this, it's best to shoot for almost 24 hours (or slightly more if possible) of the Custom Blend test with about 90% of your memory entered into Prime95 (so that you don't have to be stuck with it only using 1600 MB). The only reason for focusing on specific FFT sizes is if you know that your system is failing those FFT sizes. So, you're actually shooting yourself in the foot by only testing those FFT sizes.


The core temps are excellent, especially for the core voltage you're getting


Your voltage is in a range where CPU degradation is more likely. So, just know that over the course of a year or two you *may* need to increase the voltage slightly or perhaps even lower the overclock a little.


You're right that each CPU is different. The same holds true for the motherboard, memory, etc. No two are perfectly identical.


I am under the assumption (until I'm corrected, which would be nice if there's a correction to be made) that the reason backing down to +0.025V results in freezes at the Windows login screen is your CPU is a bit voltage hungry.


If you reduce the LLC at all, then you will get more vDroop which means all of your voltages will be lower than they are now, and that means you would have to use a higher offset in order to compensate. I'm using Medium now instead of Ultra High, and this has made my system more stable. I explain it further below.


Max TDP refers to the amount of heat that 95W generates. TDP means "Thermal Design Power". So, I believe that this means the stock cooler is good up to 95W. I mean, have you seen how some aftermarket coolers talk about being able to cool up to so many watts? For example, the Thermaltake Frio says it can cool up to 220W. I'm not sure, but I think that this means my TDP is 220W with this heatsink. I think I'm wrong, so I'd like to know for sure if someone out there can tell me more about this.


Regardless of the above bullet point, I have never seen anyone concerned about how much power their CPU is pulling, so I believe that there are no maximum safe values. I mean, it seems to me that the only reason we have software that tries to tell us how many watts it's pulling may be for people who are trying to be as "green" as possible.

Now, here are my current settings. Anything in red is different from the "template" and are superior settings for me (I would actually like to have the "template" updated with these):

*Ai Tweaker*


*Ai Overclock Tuner:* Manual
*BLCK/PCIE Frequency:* 100.0
*Turbo Ratio:* By All Cores
*By All Cores:* 47
*Internal PLL Voltage:* Disabled
*Memory Frequency:* DDR3-1866MHz
*DRAM Timing Control:* 9-10-9-28-2T
*EPU Power Saving Mode:* Disabled

*Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >*


*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*Long Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Long Duration Maintained:* Auto
*Short Duration Power Limit:* Auto
*Additional Turbo Voltage:* Auto
*Primary Plane Current Limit:* Auto

*Ai Tweaker* (in the DIGI+ VRM section)


*Load-Line Calibration:* Medium
*VRM Frequency:* Auto
*VRM Fixed Frequency Mode:* 350 (this setting is unavailable when using Auto)
*VRM Spread Spectrum:* Enabled
*Phase Control:* Optimized
*Duty Control:* T. Probe
*CPU Current Capability:* 100%
*CPU Voltage:* Offset Mode
*Offset Mode Sign:* +
*CPU Offset Voltage:* 0.065V
*DRAM Voltage:* Auto (I no longer see a point in specifying 1.5V when Auto sets it to 1.5V anyway)
*VCCSA Voltage:* Auto
*VCCIO Voltage:* 1.15625V
*CPU PLL Voltage:* Auto
*PCH Voltage:* Auto
*CPU Spread Spectrum:* Enabled

*Advanced\ CPU Configuration >*


*CPU Ratio:* Auto
*Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor:* Enabled
*Active Processor Cores:* All
*Limit CPUID Maximum:* Disabled
*Execute Disable Bit:* Enabled
*Intel Virtualization Technology:* Disabled
*Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology:* Enabled
*Turbo Mode:* Enabled
*CPU C1E:* Enabled
*CPU C3 Report:* Enabled
*CPU C6 Report:* Enabled

Based on some things that unclewebb has said recently, I am planning on switching to a Manual voltage. However, first I need to get my lazy butt in gear and clean out the interior of my computer which is a huge project that may take me 3-4 hours because I have some very detailed cleaning that needs to be done. After that, I'll feel comfortable running stress tests (that is, generating heat).

Anyway, all of these changes has resulted in a system that's noticeably more stable. Now previously, my system was able to pass nearly 24 hours of Prime95 v.27.7 build 2's Custom Blend testing using about 90% of my memory. However, I was still having the following problems that I just figured were "just the way it is":

Problem #1: DVD playback would sometimes give me a little hiccup in performance where sometimes the audio would break up for maybe 1-2 second2, or sometimes I'd get a bunch of pixels on a part of the image for about 1-2 seconds. *This no longer happens.*

Problem #2: If I paused a DVD and browsed the internet for too long while it's paused, then my audio would stop working after a while (I use the traditional 'click' sound when I click links). The usual way to fix this is to close both Firefox and Corel WinDVD and open them back up. Sometimes that doesn't work and I have to reboot. *This no longer happens.*

Problem #3: This is very similar to problem described above in #2, but it has to do with MP3s. Twice a week, I listen to the archive of a bi-weekly 3-hour internet radio program because I don't like the idea of listening to it live and not being able to control it (pause, rewind, or especially skipping ahead). Due to it being 3 hours, I usually need a break here and there. So if I pause it and then start browsing the internet for a while, then my audio will eventually quit working (sometimes it happens nearly right away and sometimes not for like 10+ minutes). Sometimes I can fix this by closing Firefox and opening it back up while leaving my MP3 player open. Other times I have to close my MP3 player too. The worst is sometimes I lose the ability to play any MP3s at all and my audio never comes back either. lol So that forces me to reboot. *So far, it seems that this no longer happens! *

Problem #4: Sometimes the very first Windows sound that gets played on a fresh boot (I have the startup sound disabled) takes a second or two to actually play - such as the "traditional click sound" I use in Firefox. So, there's always a delay. *It seems that this no longer happens either!*

I'm not 100% sure exactly what changes increased my stability, but I think it's due to using Medium instead of Ultra High. I have two reasons to believe this:


I remember some people in this thread have told me that their system is more stable with a lower LLC setting.
I've had people tell me that using a lower LLC results in lower a temperature for the Voltage Regulator Module, and this usually results in increased stability.

My idle and load voltages using Medium with +0.065V ended up being identical to what they were back when I was using Ultra High with +0.005V, yet I have zero problems with C3 and C6 enabled now. In fact, I like having them enabled now because according to my Kill A Watt, my idle power dropped by about 15W.

I've recently learned that the Phase Control and Duty Control settings really only need to be set to Extreme for like 5 GHz or higher.

Last (and pretty much the least), I changed my memory's timings because I remember someone reporting a little increase in their stability when switching from 1T to 2T. However, I didn't notice any increase in my system's stability until after changing everything else. So, I'm considering maybe going back to 9-11-9-29-1T just for fun because of the numbers: you have 9, then you have 11, then you have 9 again, but then you have 29. 2+9 equals 11, so it's a string of special numbers.  4.7 GHz is special to me too now because 4+7 equals 11. I like the number 11. In fact, my mind is blown right now because it's 12:53 while I'm typing this and 1+2+5+3 equals 11!

I almost forgot: the VRM Frequency setting of "Manual" using 350 kHz is really only necessary for bigger overclocks like 5 GHz or more.

Anyway, I guess that's everything.


----------



## malmental

TwoCables - I need some of what you smokin' on up there in Minn...








Quote:


> 4.7 GHz is special to me too now because 4+7 equals 11. I like the number 11. In fact, my mind is blown right now because it's 12:53 while I'm typing this and 1+2+5+3 equals 11!


----------



## jevon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> jevon : I would ask advice here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/180


Daffie82, thanks for the link. I've started reading that thread.


----------



## jevon

TwoCables, thanks for that awesome reply. Admittedly I was working off of your template from last fall, and I really appreciate you posting your current one. The changes you've made give me a lot to work with, and your answers to my specific questions were really helpful.

I had another freeze at the Windows login screen this morning. This happens only on cold boots, and then only sporadically. Don't know if Ultra High LLC is a contributing factor, but I'm going to try stepping that down over the next few days to see if this resolves the issue. Seems like a good place to begin. I'd like to get the voltages down a bit. I've read reports from a lot of people who've reached 48 stable with under 1.4v, so that's my target now.

Thanks again.


----------



## General121

I hate hate hate the realtek drivers on this motherboard. They constantly say "device unplugged. Device plugged in. " and it's really annoying and can window me out of bf3, etc. Really freaking annoying and bad when flying a jet


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> TwoCables - I need some of what you smokin' on up there in Minn...


lol nah, I'm not into that sort of thing. This is just a little glimpse into my weird world. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jevon*
> 
> TwoCables, thanks for that awesome reply. Admittedly I was working off of your template from last fall, and I really appreciate you posting your current one. The changes you've made give me a lot to work with, and your answers to my specific questions were really helpful.
> 
> I had another freeze at the Windows login screen this morning. This happens only on cold boots, and then only sporadically. Don't know if Ultra High LLC is a contributing factor, but I'm going to try stepping that down over the next few days to see if this resolves the issue. Seems like a good place to begin. I'd like to get the voltages down a bit. I've read reports from a lot of people who've reached 48 stable with under 1.4v, so that's my target now.
> 
> Thanks again.


You're very welcome!

Regarding having freezes at the Windows login screen, try enabling Internal PLL Overvoltage. I remember learning that this setting can help if Windows isn't booting at higher multipliers, so maybe it can help for freezes too. Although, I do like the idea of using a lower LLC setting because your VRM is probably getting quite hot with this core voltage.


----------



## TwoCables

I just disabled VRM Spread Spectrum because it may have been causing a very weird audio problem where, if I keep my DVD paused while I am browsing the internet, then I sometimes suddenly get this really loud buzzing sound that sounds like some kind of alarm-clock that's stuck on one long solid alarm sound. It's almost like a fire alarm or something. I don't know how to explain it, but it's new and I am just thinking that maybe it's due to having VRM Spread Spectrum enabled.

The reason why I'm suspecting VRM Spread Spectrum is I've had CPU Spread Spectrum since July of 2011 with no problems, but I've only had VRM Spread Spectrum enabled for a little over a week.


----------



## GeneO

Maybe it isn't functioning properly. Spread spectrum should reduce interference, not create it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Maybe it isn't functioning properly. Spread spectrum should reduce interference, not create it.


I don't know if it's interference because the noise stops when I close WinDVD. I will be testing it every day though.


----------



## malmental




----------



## am dew1

OK, you all have got me addicted to squeezing every little bit of performance from my rig, so for the heck of it I decided to try and OC my RAM. I've got 4x4 of DDR3-1600 CL9 Kingston HyperX Blue which is XMP rated for 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V. So, I went into my P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3's bios and set the memory Frequency to DDR3-1866MHz and set the DRAM Timing Control to 9-10-9-28-2T. I save and reboot and I am pleasantly surprised that Win7 loaded just fine and my system seems just a little snappier. Am I dreaming?


----------



## kevindd992002

@TwoCables

What is your take on unclewebb's explanation of using Manual? Please explain as he stopped responding to my PM.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @TwoCables
> 
> What is your take on unclewebb's explanation of using Manual? Please explain as he stopped responding to my PM.


He's probably extraordinarily busy. He's a nice guy; he won't ignore you.

Right now, I lack the time and the mental capacity to try and explain it. So the only thing I can recommend for now is to re-read what he has posted here in this thread and re-read what he posted in our private message.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> He's probably extraordinarily busy. He's a nice guy; he won't ignore you.
> 
> Right now, I lack the time and the mental capacity to try and explain it. So the only thing I can recommend for now is to re-read what he has posted here in this thread and re-read what he posted in our private message.


Oh ok.

I did re-read all of the things he said and they all make sense to me until Forceman replied here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/170#post_19303445 which he also makes a point. Can you deduce the difference between their arguments?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok.
> 
> I did re-read all of the things he said and they all make sense to me until Forceman replied here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/170#post_19303445 which he also makes a point. Can you deduce the difference between their arguments?


I guess I can try. Like I said, I'm at a low mental capacity and I'm low on time:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Here's my thought on that. The CPU changes speeds in milliseconds - is that actually slower than it is going to wake up from C6? Any task that is going to take a measurable amount of time is going to cause the CPU to speed up - there is no "1 second" calculation that is going to happen at 1600 Mhz. Plus, if the core is asleep, then no processing at all can be done until it wakes up - the entire pipeline is idle until that point - so by the time the CPU can wake up and the pipeline can be filled it should already be at full speed.


My question to this would be: then why do we notice differences when we change memory timings? Memory timings are simply values in milliseconds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> We aren't talking about downclocking and down voting without C3/C6 (at least I'm not) so anything that is going to happen power saving wise is going to happen either way.


I see a ~15W drop to my idle power with C3 and C6 enabled.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I guess what it comes down to is, in the age when CPUs can change speeds hundreds (thousands?, millions?) of times a second, I can't see that there is any energy saving to be found by running it faster at idle. We're talking millivolts of difference here (actually even less, picovolts?), if anything.


If a CPU is changing speeds hundreds, thousands, or even millions of times per second, then those tiny millisecond delays can add up to being quite noticeable just like with memory timings. I mean, 1 whole second is 1,000 milliseconds. So, do the math. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I can support the argument that it is better to run fixed+C3/C6 than offset+disabled, but I'm not at all convinced that not downclocking/down volting is a good idea. I'm pretty sure unclewebb said in the other thread that he runs with EIST enabled, so he's downclocking.


I'd like unclewebb to respond to this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> If running full speed all the time is better, why didn't Intel make that the default? Why have they spent so much time and effort improving EIST to make it faster and more granular? Why develop Turbo Boost?


I think that it's not that running full speed is better, but that using a fixed voltage is better because if all cores are in the C6 state, then it's using 0.00V. I don't know if this is true, so I'll let unclewebb explain it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Yeah, thanks for the explanation.

I think Forceman means that he is running at Offset + C3/C6 enabled. He is not against using C3/C6 enabled. He is against preventing the CPU from downclocking/downvolting which really makes sense as well until unclewebb discusses it fully. I'm even confused if unclewebb lets his CPU downclock because some of his replies seem to be against downclocking and yet some are explaining that his CPU is downclocking. His EIST is enabled as well, only C1E is disabled.

I hope he can help us here. We are done how C3/C6 needs to be enabled for power savings. What is lacking now is if it's better to use Offset + downclocking/downvolting enabled, Offset + downclocking/downvolting disabled, Manual +downclocking enabled, or Manual + downclocking disabled.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, thanks for the explanation.


You're welcome!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I think Forceman means that he is running at Offset + C3/C6 enabled. He is not against using C3/C6 enabled. He is against preventing the CPU from downclocking/downvolting which really makes sense as well until unclewebb discusses it fully. I'm even confused if unclewebb lets his CPU downclock because some of his replies seem to be against downclocking and yet some are explaining that his CPU is downclocking. His EIST is enabled as well, only C1E is disabled.


Then his CPU is only downclocking and not downvolting. His focus is on not allowing the CPU to downvolt because he's recommending a fixed voltage.

Anyway, I admit that I was assuming that he had C1E disabled because C1E allows the CPU's voltage to drop while the CPU is idling (EIST only affects the clock speed somehow). The reason why it drops with an offset is the voltage it is constantly depending on what the VID is. Each multiplier has its own VID, and the VID for the x16 multiplier is very low and therefore results in a lower core voltage. For example, my VID for x16 is 0.9807V and so adding +0.065V to that results in about 1.032V to 1.048V (usually), and sometimes goes as high as 1.088V - all while idling.

I don't really know from personal experience yet if using a fixed voltage would make for faster transitions in and out of the idle state, but it's so fast already that I doubt that I'd notice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I hope he can help us here. We are done how C3/C6 needs to be enabled for power savings. What is lacking now is if it's better to use Offset + downclocking/downvolting enabled, Offset + downclocking/downvolting disabled, Manual +downclocking enabled, or Manual + downclocking disabled.


He's saying that it's best to use fixed with C3/C6 enabled. Based on his personal settings, it seems that he would also recommend EIST enabled with C1E disabled. I think he is trying to say that this minimizes the time it takes to go in and out of the idle state. Although, I don't know from experience yet if there's a noticeable real-world difference.


----------



## kevindd992002

With regards to having a fixed voltage, he is only referring to that because of ease of reaching stability when overclocking. He did not say this will affect the transition speed because of voltage.

When he says fast transition from idle to load, he is referring to keeping the CPU frequency at the highest load frequency, say, 4.7GHz. This is what I don't understand, why would letting it downclock to a lower frequency be detrimental to the average power consumption or speed of CPU operations.

His EIST is enabled because he cannot disable it in his motherboard. It keeps on getting enabled every after reboot even though he sets it at disabled. I'm not sure if his target is to disable both C1E and C6 which is why I would really love to get his side on this.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> With regards to having a fixed voltage, he is only referring to that because of ease of reaching stability when overclocking. He did not say this will affect the transition speed because of voltage.
> 
> When he says fast transition from idle to load, he is referring to keeping the CPU frequency at the highest load frequency, say, 4.7GHz. This is what I don't understand, why would letting it downclock to a lower frequency be detrimental to the average power consumption or speed of CPU operations.
> 
> His EIST is enabled because he cannot disable it in his motherboard. It keeps on getting enabled every after reboot even though he sets it at disabled. I'm not sure if his target is to disable both C1E and C6 which is why I would really love to get his side on this.


If he can't disable EIST, then I am willing to assume that he would disable it if he could. That way, he'd have a fixed voltage, EIST and C1E disabled, and C3 and C6 enabled. That way he would have it set up in the way that he wants. I mean, if he said that his motherboard won't allow him to disable EIST, then I would say that he probably wants to disable it - especially based on what he has been teaching us.

So, I don't think there's anything to be confused about: I think he would have EIST disabled if he could get it to stay disabled.

He would never disable C6 because one of his main points is to take full advantage of it.

Anyway, I have to go to bed because I have to be up in 6 hours from now. I apologize for leaving in the middle of this. I'll be back in maybe 12 hours or so. I'll probably still be pretty wiped out all day tomorrow too though due to not getting enough sleep tonight (I'm trying to make it possible to sleep very well tomorrow night).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> If he can't disable EIST, then I am willing to assume that he would disable it if he could. That way, he'd have a fixed voltage, EIST and C1E disabled, and C3 and C6 enabled. That way he would have it set up in the way that he wants. I mean, if he said that his motherboard won't allow him to disable EIST, then I would say that he probably wants to disable it - especially based on what he has been teaching us.
> 
> So, I don't think there's anything to be confused about: I think he would have EIST disabled if he could get it to stay disabled.
> 
> He would never disable C6 because one of his main points is to take full advantage of it.
> 
> Anyway, I have to go to bed because I have to be up in 6 hours from now. I apologize for leaving in the middle of this. I'll be back in maybe 12 hours or so. I'll probably still be pretty wiped out all day tomorrow too though due to not getting enough sleep tonight (I'm trying to make it possible to sleep very well tomorrow night).


Yeah I guess but what I don't understand is why downclocking is a disadvantage.

Sure, catch you later.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah I guess but what I don't understand is why downclocking is a disadvantage.
> 
> Sure, catch you later.


He's saying that there's no power-saving benefit to it because the CPU goes into the C6 state if C6 is enabled. According to him, being in the C6 state means the CPU is using 0.000V. Of course, you won't see this in CPU-Z because it has to keep the CPU awake in order to get information and keep displaying it continually.

So, I think I just figured it out: he's saying that it's pointless to have it downclock and downvolt if you have C3 and C6 enabled because it makes no difference in power saving while idling because the CPU is using 0.000V while in the C6 state. I don't know yet if this is true (that there's no difference), so I will not say yet that I feel he's correct. Let's experiment to find out. 

Unfortunately for him, he can't disable EIST. lol I bet he would if he could, and that's probably why he mentioned it.

Anyway, I think I'll log out for real this time. lol


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> He's saying that there's no power-saving benefit to it because the CPU goes into the C6 state if C6 is enabled. According to him, being in the C6 state means the CPU is using 0.000V. Of course, you won't see this in CPU-Z because it has to keep the CPU awake in order to get information and keep displaying it continually.
> 
> So, I think I just figured it out: he's saying that it's pointless to have it downclock and downvolt if you have C3 and C6 enabled because it makes no difference in power saving while idling because the CPU is using 0.000V while in the C6 state. I don't know yet if this is true (that there's no difference), so I will not say yet that I feel he's correct. Let's experiment to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately for him, he can't disable EIST. lol I bet he would if he could, and that's probably why he mentioned it.
> 
> Anyway, I think I'll log out for real this time. lol


Yeah that's what I thought about the first time. He's saying that even though you are using Offset, that idle voltage (close to 1.000V) will not be used anyway since because the CPU goes to close to 0.000V when at idle which is not seen in CPU-Z. But the thing is what if you are doing a long task that requires less than 100% CPU usage (let's say 25%) wouldn't running at 16000MHz and at 1.000V be better for power savings?

And what frequency does the CPU run at C6 state?

Lol, ok.


----------



## error-id10t

Moved this to the CPU thread instead.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I hate hate hate the realtek drivers on this motherboard. They constantly say "device unplugged. Device plugged in. " and it's really annoying and can window me out of bf3, etc. Really freaking annoying and bad when flying a jet


Simple : remove it from booting up with windows and your problem is gone.
Use Ccleaner or something, very easy to disable with that, or just msconfig ofcourse.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> OK, you all have got me addicted to squeezing every little bit of performance from my rig, so for the heck of it I decided to try and OC my RAM. I've got 4x4 of DDR3-1600 CL9 Kingston HyperX Blue which is XMP rated for 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V. So, I went into my P8Z68-V Pro/GEN3's bios and set the memory Frequency to DDR3-1866MHz and set the DRAM Timing Control to 9-10-9-28-2T. I save and reboot and I am pleasantly surprised that Win7 loaded just fine and my system seems just a little snappier. Am I dreaming?


I HIGHLY doubt you will notice this when logging back into Windows...
Overclocking memory hardly makes any noticable difference IMO


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> I HIGHLY doubt you will notice this when logging back into Windows...
> Overclocking memory hardly makes any noticable difference IMO


You are probably right but I'll take it. Not that this means a lot but my WEI score for RAM increased from 7.8 to 7.9 and both of the graphics scores increased from 6.4 to 6.5, so at least Windows thinks it's faster now.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> You are probably right but I'll take it. Not that this means a lot but my WEI score for RAM increased from 7.8 to 7.9 and both of the graphics scores increased from 6.4 to 6.5, so at least Windows thinks it's faster now.


Yeah my ram is also 7.8 at the moment @ 9-9-9-24-1T-1600 mhz (XMP settings) so that makes sense 
question is will you gain anything when raising the memory mhz but raising the timings with it ?
In other words : tight timings with xmp speed or overclocked xmp speed with looser timings ??

graphics scores are both 7.9 here by the way


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Yeah my ram is also 7.8 at the moment @ 1600 mhz so that makes sense
> graphics scores are both 7.9 here though


I'm using the i5-2500K's onboard graphics here.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah that's what I thought about the first time. He's saying that even though you are using Offset, that idle voltage (close to 1.000V) will not be used anyway since because the CPU goes to close to 0.000V when at idle which is not seen in CPU-Z. But the thing is what if you are doing a long task that requires less than 100% CPU usage (let's say 25%) wouldn't running at 16000MHz and at 1.000V be better for power savings?


I have EIST and C1E enabled but I never see anything other than 1600 and 4700 MHz. I mean, I see nothing in between. Therefore, I'd much rather have my CPU at 4700 MHz for any work the CPU has to do than 1600 MHz because it would be much faster. This is actually very similar to what unclewebb said.

In a little while, I think I'll test a fixed voltage with EIST and C1E enabled but with C3 and C6 still enabled. I'm using the High Performance Windows power plan, and so I just want to see how it behaves this way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And what frequency does the CPU run at C6 state?


In this context, "C6" is a state that any single core can enter into by itself. So you could have 3 out of 4 cores in C6 while the one remaining core is in C0 (fully awake and active). Now, if all 4 cores were to enter C6, then that would be a "Package C-State". At that point, I suppose this question could be worth trying to answer. However, even then I feel it doesn't matter because C6 is a "Deep Sleep" state.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I hate hate hate the realtek drivers on this motherboard. They constantly say "device unplugged. Device plugged in. " and it's really annoying and can window me out of bf3, etc. Really freaking annoying and bad when flying a jet


Are you open to trying the generic Microsoft driver? If so, then I recommend trying that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Simple : remove it from booting up with windows and your problem is gone.
> Use Ccleaner or something, very easy to disable with that, *or just msconfig ofcourse.*
> I HIGHLY doubt you will notice this when logging back into Windows...
> Overclocking memory hardly makes any noticable difference IMO


Msconfig is not for permanent changes. It is for diagnosing problems and then returning back to normal when the diagnosing is complete. It's better to just look in the Registry and in Services.msc because then you're actually *curing* the problem instead of just hiding it.

The Registry keys I recommend looking at are these 3:


HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Are you open to trying the generic Microsoft driver? If so, then I recommend trying that.


Nah, thats not needed.
Just disable these 2 :
HKLM:Run RTHDVCPL Realtek Semiconductor C:\Program Files\Realtek\Audio\HDA\RtkNGUI64.exe -s
HKLM:Run RtHDVBg_DTS Realtek Semiconductor C:\Program Files\Realtek\Audio\HDA\RAVBg64.exe /FORDTSUPTBT

last one probably not needed for your issue but I would disable it anyway.
You can do it manually in regedit or by using Ccleaner as I said earlier.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Nah, thats not needed.
> Just disable these 2 :
> HKLM:Run RTHDVCPL Realtek Semiconductor C:\Program Files\Realtek\Audio\HDA\RtkNGUI64.exe -s
> HKLM:Run RtHDVBg_DTS Realtek Semiconductor C:\Program Files\Realtek\Audio\HDA\RAVBg64.exe /FORDTSUPTBT
> 
> last one probably not needed for your issue but I would disable it anyway.
> You can do it manually in regedit or by using Ccleaner as I said earlier.


hehe you show-off. 

I mean, thank you!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I have EIST and C1E enabled but I never see anything other than 1600 and 4700 MHz. I mean, I see nothing in between. Therefore, I'd much rather have my CPU at 4700 MHz for any work the CPU has to do than 1600 MHz because it would be much faster. This is actually very similar to what unclewebb said.
> 
> In a little while, I think I'll test a fixed voltage with EIST and C1E enabled but with C3 and C6 still enabled. I'm using the High Performance Windows power plan, and so I just want to see how it behaves this way.
> 
> In this context, "C6" is a state that any single core can enter into by itself. So you could have 3 out of 4 cores in C6 while the one remaining core is in C0 (fully awake and active). Now, if all 4 cores were to enter C6, then that would be a "Package C-State". At that point, I suppose this question could be worth trying to answer. However, even then I feel it doesn't matter because C6 is a "Deep Sleep" state.


I bet you are using CPU-Z to monitor the CPU frequency which is why you can only see 1600MHz and 4700MHz. Use RealTemp to accurately see how the CPU frequency changes. EIST produces more granular CPU steps than C1E.

If you try disabling C1E and EIST, you would have to try this to confirm: http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/180#post_19318776 . I hope you can post your insights in that thread also.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I bet you are using CPU-Z to monitor the CPU frequency which is why you can only see 1600MHz and 4700MHz. Use RealTemp to accurately see how the CPU frequency changes. EIST produces more granular CPU steps than C1E.


Oh man, that's right I completely forgot about that. I'm still not used to thinking of Real Temp as something I can use to monitor this! lol Thank you for the reminder. Whew.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If you try disabling C1E and EIST, you would have to try this to confirm: http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/180#post_19318776 . I hope you can post your insights in that thread also.


I'm not really ready for that thread yet.

I think I'm going to try this right now, but I have one problem with unclewebb's recommendation: in order for me to keep my Medium LLC setting and still get my required full-load voltage of 1.376V, my low-load voltage (or "idle voltage") has to be way over 1.4V. So, that just seems to me like a bad thing to do. Although, I think I'll try it just this once.

Also, I wonder if unclewebb knows that there are two places in the BIOS where EIST can be toggled.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh man, that's right I completely forgot about that. I'm still not used to thinking of Real Temp as something I can use to monitor this! lol Thank you for the reminder. Whew.
> 
> I'm not really ready for that thread yet.
> 
> I think I'm going to try this right now, but I have one problem with unclewebb's recommendation: in order for me to keep my Medium LLC setting and still get my required full-load voltage of 1.376V, my low-load voltage (or "idle voltage") has to be way over 1.4V. So, that just seems to me like a bad thing to do. Although, I think I'll try it just this once.
> 
> Also, I wonder if unclewebb knows that there are two places in the BIOS where EIST can be toggled.


No worries









As unclewebb suggested, even though your idle voltage is very high as reported in CPU-Z effectively it will be close to 0.000V. Or you're just not too cozy in seeing that high of a voltage even though it is not really that voltage that is implemented? lol.

I think he knows that. Try to disable one setting and you will be surprised that the 2nd setting is also disabled







At least that's what it is doing on my board. Here's my testing results on that: http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/190#post_19323848


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> No worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As unclewebb suggested, even though your idle voltage is very high as reported in CPU-Z effectively it will be close to 0.000V. Or you're just not too cozy in seeing that high of a voltage even though it is not really that voltage that is implemented? lol.


No, I'm not comfortable with my low-load voltages being way higher than my full-load voltages. That is, my low-load voltage is way higher than my Prime95 voltage due to vDroop. I don't like that, so I'm not keeping it unless unclewebb can prove that things aren't what they seem and are actually much safer this way or something.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I think he knows that. Try to disable one setting and you will be surprised that the 2nd setting is also disabled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least that's what it is doing on my board. Here's my testing results on that: http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/190#post_19323848


Yeah, mine did it just now. lol I've never played with the EIST setting before - only with socket 775 back when it was necessary.

Anyway, I get the exact same MSR readout as you. Although, I did not know how to interpret it, so I'm glad you did because now I know that if your interpretation is correct, then bit 16 is set for me and EIST is actually enabled even though it says Disabled in the BIOS. lol

Don't you just love it when your computer lies to you?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, I'm not comfortable with my low-load voltages being way higher than my full-load voltages. That is, my low-load voltage is way higher than my Prime95 voltage due to vDroop. I don't like that, so I'm not keeping it unless unclewebb can prove that things aren't what they seem and are actually much safer this way or something.
> 
> Yeah, mine did it just now. lol I've never played with the EIST setting before - only with socket 775 back when it was necessary.
> 
> Anyway, I get the exact same MSR readout as you. Although, I did not know how to interpret it, so I'm glad you did because now I know that if your interpretation is correct, then bit 16 is set for me and EIST is actually enabled even though it says Disabled in the BIOS. lol
> 
> Don't you just love it when your computer lies to you?


If I have time later, I might use a voltmeter to measure the actual voltage of the CPU when it is in C6 state as proof that it will be close to 0.000V. Problem is where are the vcore pinouts for my board?

Lol, ok.

The ones shown in the program are hex digits. 1 hex digit is 4 bits, 2 hex digits are 8 bits and 1 byte. So from the right most part of one row you see a hex digit of 9 which translates to 1001 in binary and they represent bit[3] to bit[0]. SET means the binary equivalent is 1.

I think the EIST issue only happens with ASUS boards.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If I have time later, I might use a voltmeter to measure the actual voltage of the CPU when it is in C6 state as proof that it will be close to 0.000V. Problem is where are the vcore pinouts for my board?


It won't work because only individual cores will be in the C6 state. Sometimes 3 cores are in C6 while only one is in the full C0 state.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> The ones shown in the program are hex digits. 1 hex digit is 4 bits, 2 hex digits are 8 bits and 1 byte. So from the right most part of one row you see a hex digit of 9 which translates to 1001 in binary and they represent bit[3] to bit[0]. SET means the binary equivalent is 1.
> 
> *I think the EIST issue only happens with ASUS boards.*


Oh, well isn't that special?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It won't work because only individual cores will be in the C6 state. Sometimes 3 cores are in C6 while only one is in the full C0 state.
> 
> Oh, well isn't that special?


Well, what if all cores are at c6 state? Isn't the low power draw indicated in your kill-a-watt meter even though the voltage is high indicated in cpu-z a good reason?

Yes, it is indeed special


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, what if all cores are at c6 state?


I don't know yet when that would ever happen. So, I'll wait for unclewebb.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Isn't the low power draw indicated in your kill-a-watt meter even though the voltage is high indicated in cpu-z a good reason?


I saw that difference before switching to fixed with EIST and C1E supposedly disabled.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know yet when that would ever happen. So, I'll wait for unclewebb.
> 
> I saw that difference before switching to fixed with EIST and C1E supposedly disabled.


I hope he chimes in soon









What do you mean difference?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I hope he chimes in soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean difference?


The difference before and after I made all of those changes to my settings recently (the ones involving Ultra High down to Medium and enabling C3 and C6).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The difference before and after I made all of those changes to my settings recently (the ones involving Ultra High down to Medium and enabling C3 and C6).


Yes but when you use Manual vcore, you still have the same power consumption at idle right? That means that the voltage you are seeing in CPUZ is useless even though it is high. Now this is more of a psychological effect on you


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yes but when you use Manual vcore, you still have the same power consumption at idle right? That means that the voltage you are seeing in CPUZ is useless even though it is high. Now this is more of a psychological effect on you


I didn't check. I don't know why I didn't, so I'll try to check in a while.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, what if all cores are at c6 state?


Check MSR 0xE2 register, look at bit 2:0. If it set to 000b, then not possible all cores will go into C6 state because 000b means Package C-States Limit is set to C0/C1 states. I bet bit 15 is set (1) too which means no way OS can override the Package C-States Limit.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Check MSR 0xE2 register, look at bit 2:0. If it set to 000b, then not possible all cores will go into C6 state because 000b means Package C-States Limit is set to C0/C1 states. I bet bit 15 is set (1) too which means no way OS can override the Package C-States Limit.


Here's what I have for 0xE2:



I don't understand, what do you mean if it is set to 000b? Which one is 000b? If they cannot go into Package C6 state, then why can I usually see up to 98% package c6 states summary in realtemp?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Here's what I have for 0xE2:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand, what do you mean if it is set to 000b? Which one is 000b? If they cannot go into Package C6 state, then why can I usually see up to 98% package c6 states summary in realtemp?


For package C-state? Are you talking about the readings at the bottom or at the top? The readings at the top are for the individual cores and the readings at the bottom are for all 4 cores simultaneously.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> For _package_ C-state? Are you talking about the readings at the bottom or at the top? The readings at the top are for the individual cores and the readings at the bottom are for all 4 cores simultaneously.


I'm using the Realtemp T|I edition and I'm talking about the C-states at the bottom which says "Package C-state" and yes when I'm idle it reaches up to 98%.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm using the Realtemp T|I edition and I'm talking about the C-states at the bottom which says "Package C-state" and yes when I'm idle it reaches up to 98%.


Wow. How long does it take to do that?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. How long does it take to do that?


Not long, as soon as I'm idle? Isn't this behavior happening to you? AFAIK, unclewebb's system can go up to 99% fairly fast as well.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Here's what I have for 0xE2:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand, what do you mean if it is set to 000b? Which one is 000b? If they cannot go into Package C6 state, then why can I usually see up to 98% package c6 states summary in realtemp?


0x1E008407

Look at bit 2:0. Yours is 111b which means No package C-state limit. This means your CPU can enter package C-State (C1E/C3/C6).

There are Core C-States & Package C-States. The individual threads/cores entering C-States is called Core C-States. Package C-States means CPU enters the Package Cx state (x = 1/1E, 3 & 6) when at least one core is in Cx state & the other cores in Cx or lower power state. For example, CPU enters Package C3 state when at least one core is in C3 state & the other cores are in C3 state or lower power state.

I doubt you can measure voltage when CPU enter Package C6 state because CPU enter & exit C6 state pretty fast. I don't think any tools can measure it accurately.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Not long, as soon as I'm idle? Isn't this behavior happening to you? AFAIK, unclewebb's system can go up to 99% fairly fast as well.


While idling, my Package C State Percent for C6 hovers at about 45-50%. My Core C State is always in the 90s. This maybe the difference between the P67 and the Z68/Z77 chipset.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 0x1E008407
> 
> Look at bit 2:0. Yours is 111b which means No package C-state limit. This means your CPU can enter package C-State (C1E/C3/C6).
> 
> There are Core C-States & Package C-States. The individual threads/cores entering C-States is called Core C-States. Package C-States means CPU enters the Package Cx state (x = 1/1E, 3 & 6) when at least one core is in Cx state & the other cores in Cx or lower power state. For example, CPU enters Package C3 state when at least one core is in C3 state & the other cores are in C3 state or lower power state.
> 
> I doubt you can measure voltage when CPU enter Package C6 state because CPU enter & exit C6 state pretty fast. I don't think any tools can measure it accurately.


Ah, now I understand! You meant 111b as in 111 in binary! I thought b was a HEX digit. bit[15] is also set (1) so what does that mean, the OS cannot change C-states?

So what does Core-state summary signify in RealTemp?

So in order to be 100% C6 package state, then one core must be running C6 and the other three should run C6 or lower power state? And this is impossible to happen for our systems?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> While idling, my Package C State Percent for C6 hovers at about 45-50%. My Core C State is always in the 90s. This maybe the difference between the P67 and the Z68/Z77 chipset.


False alarm! I confirmed again and saw that the maximum Package C-state for C6 for my system is around 66% only. Sorry for giving the wrong info earlier, I swear I saw it reach 98% when I monitored it the other day but I could be wrong because so many things are crossing my mind regarding this power savings discussion


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ah, now I understand! You meant 111b as in 111 in binary! I thought b was a HEX digit. bit[15] is also set (1) so what does that mean, the OS cannot change C-states?


Can you help me understand by translating from your screenshot? I don't know these things yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So in order to be 100% C6 package state, then one core must be running C6 and the other three should run C6 or lower power state? And this is impossible to happen for our systems?


Package C-State means all cores. Core C-State means individual cores, never all of them at the same time. So if the the CPU is entering the C6 package c-state, then all of the cores are in C6.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> False alarm! I confirmed again and saw that the maximum Package C-state for C6 for my system is around 66% only. Sorry for giving the wrong info earlier, I swear I saw it reach 98% when I monitored it the other day but I could be wrong because so many things are crossing my mind regarding this power savings discussion


Yeah, I think you're asking more questions than you can handle. It's like your head is bursting at the seams and will soon explode with all of this information flying out like a tightly-packed can of worms! I mean, it's so bad that it's affecting your vision!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Can you help me understand by translating from your screenshot? I don't know these things yet.
> 
> Package C-State means all cores. Core C-State means individual cores, never all of them at the same time. So if the the CPU is entering the C6 _package_ c-state, then all of the cores are in C6.
> 
> Yeah, I think you're asking more questions than you can handle. It's like your head is bursting at the seams and will soon explode with all of this information flying out like a tightly-packed can of worms! I mean, it's so bad that it's affecting your vision!


Sure, in my screenshot the value is 0x1E008407. "0x" means that is in Hexadecimal. One hexadecimal digit is equal to 4 binary bits. You can search google on how to translate from hex to binary but the translation of 0x1E008407 is 0001 1110 0000 0000 1000 0100 0000 0111 in binary. Those are 32 bits all in all. The right most bit is the least significant digit and is bit[0]. Going from left to right you get bit[1] to bit[31] (or simply bit 31:1). SET means the value is 1. And RESET is 0. In my case, bit 2:0 are 111b (the b in the end means in binary form). That's it









Yeah, and if one core is in C6 and let's say the three others are in C7 then the CPU is still in Packacge C6 state if I understand correctly.

Lol, I think I just overlooked it but my brain is very used to handling several questions until it can fully process them all


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ah, now I understand! You meant 111b as in 111 in binary! I thought b was a HEX digit. bit[15] is also set (1) so what does that mean, the OS cannot change C-states?


It means bits 15:0 are locked, meaning OS can't overwrite them. Which also means in your case, Package C-State Limit (bit 2:0) will always 111b (No package C-state limit.), OS can't overwrite it. That's all. So, even if bit 15 is set, it means nothing to you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So what does Core-state summary signify in RealTemp?


I think that is just average percentage of amount of time individual cores spending in C-States.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So in order to be 100% C6 package state, then one core must be running C6 and the other three should run C6 or lower power state? And this is impossible to happen for our systems?


Yes for the first question but not the 100%. No for the second question. It is possible for your CPU to enter Package C-States because bit 2:0 of MSR 0xE2 is 111b (No package C-state limit).

I think unclewebb can give accurate answer but in my understanding, the percentage is the amount of time CPU spent in specific C-States at any given time. So, no way CPU will spent 100% in C6 state. You see the percentage fluctuate because CPU is rapidly entering & exiting C1E/C3/C6 states. This is my understanding though.


----------



## TwoCables

Omg, maybe I need more sleep because my head is spinning. I feel like it's Windows trying to be compatible with Mac.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It means bits 15:0 are locked, meaning OS can't overwrite them. Which also means in your case, Package C-State Limit (bit 2:0) will always 111b (No package C-state limit.), OS can't overwrite it. That's all. So, even if bit 15 is set, it means nothing to you.
> I think that is just average percentage of amount of time individual cores spending in C-States.
> Yes for the first question but not the 100%. No for the second question. It is possible for your CPU to enter Package C-States because bit 2:0 of MSR 0xE2 is 111b (No package C-state limit).
> 
> I think unclewebb can give accurate answer but in my understanding, the percentage is the amount of time CPU spent in specific C-States at any given time. So, no way CPU will spent 100% in C6 state. You see the percentage fluctuate because CPU is rapidly entering & exiting C1E/C3/C6 states. This is my understanding though.


I understand, thank you for these helpful insights mate









What is your take on C1E though? I can't see C1E state in RealTemp which is why I can't compare if the CPU is really spending significant time there if it is enabled in BIOS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Omg, maybe I need more sleep because my head is spinning. I feel like it's Windows trying to be compatible with Mac.


Hahahaha


----------



## TwoCables

Man, Kevin. You sure are doing this right. By the time you understand all the correct and definitive answers to all of your questions past and present, you could become OCN's most valuable member or something. lol


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Man, Kevin. You sure are doing this right. By the time you understand all the correct and definitive answers to all of your questions past and present, you could become OCN's most valuable member or something. lol


Lol, sorry about that. It's just me being a perfectionist on all this and me being the Electronics Engineer that I am, lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol, sorry about that. It's just me being a perfectionist on all this and me being the Electronics Engineer that I am, lol.


Well, wise men ask questions.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I understand, thank you for these helpful insights mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your take on C1E though? I can't see C1E state in RealTemp which is why I can't compare if the CPU is really spending significant time there if it is enabled in BIOS.


You're welcome.









In my test, I didn't see any difference between C1E enabled or disabled, if C3/C6 are enabled. CPU still fluctuating in both case. So, I leave/set it enabled.


----------



## error-id10t

Can someone explain why you guys see such a high use of Package C6 (*fixed*) state when I don't.

I know there's multitude of programs but for simplicities sake I'm using TS which allows most of it at once. When I open it up, I see Package C2 high, 80-90% while Package C6 (*fixed*) is 0.3%. That's it. Now the same program also tells me (greyed out) that my Package state limit is C2 which might be the answer here.

For what it's worth, MSR shows:

1E008403
= 00011110000000001000010000000011

add: yes I get the binary conversation explained earlier and I see mine is 011 but considering BIOS only has 1 option for Package State then why is mine different, especially if Unclewebb on his Z77-V Pro board supposedly get's Package C6 high too (I haven't seen him post this though)?


----------



## kizwan

Your bits 2:0 is 011b which mean "C6 retention". That's probably why you see C6 is fixed at 0.3% (or not 0% at all).


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Your bits 2:0 is 011b which means Package C-State Limit is set to "C6 retention". That's probably why you see C6 is fixed at 0.3%. I'm guessing C6 never 0% even when under load. Can you confirm this?


No, under load all C states and Package states go to 0.

This is what it looks like idling, if we're anal about it, it changes between 0.2% - 0.3% .. TS is not on, it's just monitoring. For what it's worth, I changed it to AUTO in BIOS and it disabled the whole thing. Unlike other ASUS boards apparently, I don't have specific options to limit / raise this.

Meh, just found it odd and figure I ask why the difference.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> No, under load all C states and Package states go to 0.
> 
> This is what it looks like idling, if we're anal about it, it changes between 0.2% - 0.3% .. TS is not on, it's just monitoring. For what it's worth, I changed it to AUTO in BIOS and it disabled the whole thing. Unlike other ASUS boards apparently, I don't have specific options to limit / raise this.
> 
> Meh, just found it odd and figure I ask why the difference.


That's weird indeed. It shows that your individual cores are in C6 90+% of the time so I'm assuming that your Package C6 state should be higher. I get mine as high as 66% when idle. Have you tried using RealTemp T|I edition?

Regarding TS, what will happen if those EIST and C1E checkboxes are checked?


----------



## error-id10t

Shows the same, don't think it's a program error considering TS picture also shows package C state limit - what does that show for everyone else? C2 or C6?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Shows the same, don't think it's a program error considering TS picture also shows package C state limit - what does that show for everyone else? C2 or C6?


Hmmm, that's weird. I'm going to post mine later because my system is on an IBT run right now.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Regarding TS, what will happen if those EIST and C1E checkboxes are checked?


When ticked, they're enabled & un-ticked will disabled them.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> When ticked, they're enabled & un-ticked will disabled them.


I guess this won't work with my system because as discussed earlier my C-state bits are locked?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I just disabled VRM Spread Spectrum because it may have been causing a very weird audio problem where, if I keep my DVD paused while I am browsing the internet, then I sometimes suddenly get this really loud buzzing sound that sounds like some kind of alarm-clock that's stuck on one long solid alarm sound. It's almost like a fire alarm or something. I don't know how to explain it, but it's new and I am just thinking that maybe it's due to having VRM Spread Spectrum enabled.
> 
> The reason why I'm suspecting VRM Spread Spectrum is I've had CPU Spread Spectrum since July of 2011 with no problems, but I've only had VRM Spread Spectrum enabled for a little over a week.


Yep, I'm replying to one of my posts. 

This is still happening and it's also affecting a paused MP3. So now I re-enabled VRM Spread Spectrum and disabled CPU Spread Spectrum. I'll keep testing. If it keeps doing it with CPU Spread Spectrum disabled, then I'll go back to my previous settings where I used to have Ultra High LLC, Phase Control and Duty Control set to Extreme, and C3 and C6 disabled.


----------



## malmental

smh, you guys gave me a headache...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I guess this won't work with my system because as discussed earlier my C-state bits are locked?


The lock bit only locked Package C-State Limit & I/O MWAIT Redirection Enable (I have no idea the second one is for). You should be able to enable/disable C1E & EIST through ThrottleStop.

You can see an example in this picture (from error-id10t's post), noticed the "Package C State Limit" button is grey out? That is the effect of the lock bit.


This is an example when the lock bit is not set. I can set the Package C-State Limit manually.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The lock bit only locked Package C-State Limit & I/O MWAIT Redirection Enable (I have no idea the second one is for). You should be able to enable/disable C1E & EIST through ThrottleStop.
> 
> You can see an example in this picture (from error-id10t's post), noticed the "Package C State Limit" button is grey out? That is the effect of the lock bit.


Oh ok. Then if I disable EIST with TS, my frequency will be fixed at 4.7GHz?

Also, what if C1E is disabled in BIOS can you still enable it in TS?

And what are C State Demotion?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. Then if I disable EIST with TS, my frequency will be fixed at 4.7GHz?


error-id10t already tested this earlier, CPU still fluctuates.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Also, what if C1E is disabled in BIOS can you still enable it in TS?


Yes.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> error-id10t already tested this earlier, CPU still fluctuates.
> Yes.


Oh, sorry I forgot. This was the program that he was tested. I just also tested it now and the frequency is still fluctuating.

Ok. When you open TS (without doing anything) and then the EIST and C1E are checked, does that mean that it detected that they are enabled in the system?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Shows the same, don't think it's a program error considering TS picture also shows package C state limit - what does that show for everyone else? C2 or C6?


Ahhh I see the problem here...... Your using Windows 8.









lol Just kidding.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. When you open TS (without doing anything) and then the EIST and C1E are checked, does that mean that it detected that they are enabled in the system?


They are always ticked by default which also means even though you disabled C1E in BIOS, it will enabled when you open TS. Anyway it just default behaviour of TS, you can untick or tick & press save, then TS will remember your selection when next time you run TS.


----------



## unclewebb

I noticed when testing today that selecting C1E, C3 or C6 seems to over ride the EIST selection. With EIST enabled or disabled, enabling any of the low power C States will let the multiplier go between the minimum and the maximum.

If EIST is disabled, the CPU will ignore any multiplier change requests in the MSR 0x199 IA_PERF_CTRL register. That's why ThrottleStop does not work correctly when EIST is disabled.. I usually just leave EIST enabled. The Asus bios leaves it enabled whether you select enabled or disabled and I use C6 to save power so the EIST state does not seem to be too important on unlocked Ivy CPUs.

I will try to add MSR 0xE2 - bits[2..0] to the RealTemp C States window for the next version. I think Intel changed the meaning of this register between some of the different Core i CPU versions so if you notice and inconsistencies between what ThrottleStop reports and what MSR 0xE2 shows then post or PM me an example. I lose track of all the forums I am in.

kevindd992002 - Sorry I couldn't keep up with all of your questions.
Ask me 1 or 2 a day so I still have some time left over to work on my projects.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unclewebb*
> 
> I noticed when testing today that selecting C1E, C3 or C6 seems to over ride the EIST selection. With EIST enabled or disabled, enabling any of the low power C States will let the multiplier go between the minimum and the maximum.
> 
> If EIST is disabled, the CPU will ignore any multiplier change requests in the MSR 0x199 IA_PERF_CTRL register. That's why ThrottleStop does not work correctly when EIST is disabled.. I usually just leave EIST enabled. The Asus bios leaves it enabled whether you select enabled or disabled and I use C6 to save power so the EIST state does not seem to be too important on unlocked Ivy CPUs.
> 
> I will try to add MSR 0xE2 - bits[2..0] to the RealTemp C States window for the next version. I think Intel changed the meaning of this register between some of the different Core i CPU versions so if you notice and inconsistencies between what ThrottleStop reports and what MSR 0xE2 shows then post or PM me an example. I lose track of all the forums I am in.
> 
> kevindd992002 - Sorry I couldn't keep up with all of your questions.
> Ask me 1 or 2 a day so I still have some time left over to work on my projects.


No worries but I do have a last concern here. I'm really trying to stay awake just to catch your answer







I hate the time difference because I live in a GMT+8 time zone which makes it 10:49AM here as of the moment. I usually sleep when you're awake and vice versa.

Regarding offset vs. fixed when we cannot stop the CPU from changing frequency. What is the frequency when the CPU is in C6?

Here's an example assuming C3/C6 are enabled for all cases:

1.) For fixed vcore (say 1.45V), it will be applied as the vcore from frequencies 3.3GHz up to 4.7GHz (max turbo multi).

2.) With offset vcore, the vcore will be lower for frequencies less than 4.7GHz because it adds/subtracts the offset value from the VID of each multi. The lower the multi, the lower the VID, the lower the effective vcore.

In that example, what is the disadvantage of using offset then aside from the difficulty in making it stable with C3 and C6 enabled?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> In that example, what is the disadvantage of using offset then aside from the difficulty in making it stable with C3 and C6 enabled?


Unclewebb, I would also like to ask the same question but in a different way: if I have C3 and C6 enabled, then can you say again why you recommend a fixed core voltage and a fixed multiplier instead of a dynamic voltage and multiplier? Or rather, why you recommend using a fixed voltage with EIST and C1E disabled if C3 and C6 are enabled? My reason for asking is I tried this, but I did not like the fact that CPU-Z was showing my idle and low-load voltages sitting way above 1.4V. I mean, I am preferring to use Medium LLC these days, so I guess another question I have is this: is it really sitting at 1.4V+ when my CPU is idling and under very low loads? I know that the more intense the load the lower the voltage droops under that load, and the lighter the load, the less vDroop there is and therefore the higher the voltage is. However, does it even matter if C3 and C6 are enabled with C1E and EIST disabled?


----------



## TwoCables

Unfortunately, disabling CPU Spread Spectrum wasn't the answer either. So now I'm going to go back to my old settings to see if that works.


----------



## kevindd992002

I don't know but I highly doubt that you're settings have something to do with your dvd playback. Try installing shark007 codecs.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I don't know but I highly doubt that you're settings have something to do with your dvd playback. Try installing shark007 codecs.


No, this problem surfaced after changing to those new settings that I liked so much. So I'm back to my old settings to see if the problem continues.

This affects MP3 playback in PotPlayer as well.


----------



## malmental

headache...


----------



## Erikk

I am new here at this forum. I have little problems with my OC. 2 Days ago I overclocked my 2500K with my corsair cooler to 4.5Ghz only with the multiplier. It was stable so I thought no problems. Then when I restart my system, I got the error from my bios "overclock failed, please press F1 to run setup". That was very weird, because it was stable. So I updated my bios from 0501 to 3603, maybe that will solve it. But then, the multiplier was locked and It won't get higher than 33, also not with +/-. I thought, that is the bios update. So now, I flashed my bios back to 0501, but I have the same problem. With CPU-Z I don't see weird things, and I have also cleared my CMOS. So maybe somebody know how to solve this problem?

Also the option by all cores is gone:


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, this problem surfaced after changing to those new settings that I liked so much. So I'm back to my old settings to see if the problem continues.
> 
> This affects MP3 playback in PotPlayer as well.


Oh ok. Let us know the outcome then.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. Let us know the outcome then.


Thank you. I hope I don't forget!


----------



## Erikk

Somebody that can help me?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erikk*
> 
> I am new here at this forum. I have little problems with my OC. 2 Days ago I overclocked my 2500K with my corsair cooler to 4.5Ghz only with the multiplier. It was stable so I thought no problems. Then when I restart my system, I got the error from my bios "overclock failed, please press F1 to run setup". That was very weird, because it was stable. So I updated my bios from 0501 to 3603, maybe that will solve it. But then, the multiplier was locked and It won't get higher than 33, also not with +/-. I thought, that is the bios update. So now, I flashed my bios back to 0501, but I have the same problem. With CPU-Z I don't see weird things, and I have also cleared my CMOS. So maybe somebody know how to solve this problem?
> 
> Also the option by all cores is gone:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erikk*
> 
> Somebody that can help me?


Did you clear CMOS when update BIOS from 0501 to 3603? Try re-flash again with the same version. Meaning if you currently on 0501, re-flash 0501 again. Same thing if you're on 3603, re-flash 3603 again. Make sure reset CMOS before re-flashing BIOS.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erikk*
> 
> Somebody that can help me?


It would be helpful for you to fill out your rig specs so they go with you with ever post. That said I was able to determine you have a V-Pro mobo and 2500k from your screen shot. I'd also like to know a few things like installed OS & drivers and how you down flashed your bios (all steps you took)?


Immediately I would try setting optimized defaults > save and exit (F10). Then take a screen shot of main page and initial Ai Tweaker page again and post up here. Setting Optimized Defaults is an important step to take before and after flashing your bios and commonly forgotten.
If that offers no change ie still lost multiplier option I would that battery out and clear cmos leave out overnight. Now replace battery and fire up the board you'll likely be faced with the F1 prompt again so click it go into bios and set date then time the optimized defaults and F10 to save and exit. Take screens of both pages again and post up here.
If that doesn't work it will have become obvious the flashing you performed prior to this was corrupted in which case you may need to RMA the board but first I would try to reflash your bios. It is also possible you did not completely remove the 3xxx bios which is causing the conflict. Meaning you may need to retake the steps to remove it again.
I use the same mobo and see no need to go above 1101 with a SB proc and if the above has no effect I recommend you try flashing twice to it (1101). After the second flash enter bios check that date and time is accurate and then set optimized defaults 1st before anything else the save & exit (F10). Now enter bios again and check to see if all is well again.

I've read where folks who proceed to an 3xxx bios have trouble reverting back because of the changes it makes so this is likely the root cause of your trouble at this point however it's TBD if you can get back to where you want to be. It may be easier to make due with a 3xxx bios but for the moment I will assume you correctly reverted back but may have missed something that is correctable with the steps above.

Please do what I've asked in the order I've indicated above as the order and instruction may change based on the screen shots you provide in step 1


----------



## Erikk

Thank you, for your help, I will try it.

My Specs:

I5 2500K
ASUS P8Z68-V Pro with bios 0501 current
Corsair 8GB DDR3 1600 kit
Corsair H80I
Windows 7 64-bit
Nvidia GTX 570

I have taken this steps for downgrade my bios

http://smarttechtips.blogspot.nl/2012/08/how-to-donwngrade-asus-bios.html

First I will clear my CMOS, set optimized defaults, take a screenshot and then reflash 0501.


----------



## Erikk

I have here pictures after load optimized defaults



I only set for the picture AI Overclock Tuner to manual so you can see more



EDIT:
I have reflashed my bios from 0501 to 0501, and with the rules that u said to me with the CMOS and Optimized Defaults, but it make no sense, can't change the multiplier.

And I think that I will update my bios to 1101. What is the best way method to do that, can I do it with AI Suite II and what should I do correct before and after?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erikk*
> 
> I have here pictures after load optimized defaults
> 
> 
> 
> I only set for the picture AI Overclock Tuner to manual so you can see more
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> I have reflashed my bios from 0501 to 0501, and with the rules that u said to me with the CMOS and Optimized Defaults, but it make no sense, can't change the multiplier.


Okay screen 1 clearly shows 0501 bios yet you still don't have all the options associated with it as evidenced by the 2nd screen.

Based on your comment I will assume you have already tried to reflash as kizwan suggested and set optimized defaults as I suggested and the screens are the results.

If so obviously the bios is fubar. Other than RMAing the board Your issue begs the question how are you flashing the bios and again what steps did you take to revert back to existing bios from 3xxx?


----------



## Erikk

I use this tutorial and took this steps to go back from 36XX to 0501 then to 0606. Same problem. Then I did this tutorial half to go back only to 0501.
http://smarttechtips.blogspot.nl/2012/08/how-to-donwngrade-asus-bios.html


----------



## Mrrad

Hello to everyone, I am posting this here because the "Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z" thread is pretty inactive now and I think this is a generic problem anyway... I just changed " initalate graphic adaptor to igpu and now i cant see the bios on bootup... It still boots into windows ok but displays nothing prior to this now. Have a hdmi to dvi adaptor on order hopefully this will allow me to access the bios.. I was advised to just reset the bios but am scared about losing my saved profiles.... can anyone give me some tips thanks......


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erikk*
> 
> I use this tutorial and took this steps to go back from 36XX to 0501 then to 0606. Same problem. Then I did this tutorial half to go back only to 0501.
> http://smarttechtips.blogspot.nl/2012/08/how-to-donwngrade-asus-bios.html


That should have worked and may be pointing to a bad rom chip which means you will have to RMA the board.

However if your game try the following as a last ditch effort to avoid RMA. I understand this is for P67 but this method is also known to work for your board as well.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629404

Here are some other links you may find helpful.

http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8Z68-V%20PRO/GEN3&os=&no=1722

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1037179438&postcount=2343

http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/8909-Make-A-bootable-USb-drive-For-Flashing-From-DOS


----------



## davidm71

Anyone try out the Intel Management Interface driver version 9.0.0.1287? Using version 8.x right now. Any benefit to upgrade?

Thanks


----------



## Tradio

have had a weird issue with my brand new ASUS P8Z68-V PRO (rig in my sig) for some reason the mobo will freeze right after the bios post (no windows 7 starting logo) when I have my secondary HDD plugged into sata port 2 (MY SSD is my OS Drive). The only way to get the machine to load windows is to disconnect the sata plug, let the machine boot into windows and then plug the sata HDD back in. Windows detects it fine and the drive works perfect. Its just for some real strange annoying reason that the mobo will freeze at start up when a hard drive is plugged into a certain port. Anyone have the same issue?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrrad*
> 
> Hello to everyone, I am posting this here because the "Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z" thread is pretty inactive now and I think this is a generic problem anyway... I just changed " initalate graphic adaptor to igpu and now i cant see the bios on bootup... It still boots into windows ok but displays nothing prior to this now. Have a hdmi to dvi adaptor on order hopefully this will allow me to access the bios.. I was advised to just reset the bios but am scared about losing my saved profiles.... can anyone give me some tips thanks......


Have you tried tapping the Delete key at POST. Depending on your monitor with an HDMI connection the screen start up is delayed to long to enable the initial view that you typically see at post yet it should go into bios and eventually present it on your monitor but will be delayed. I assume after you made the change to iGPU you are now connected to the mobo HDMI connection to your monitor HDMI port. Be sure your monitor is starting to the appropriate associated port or after tapping the delete key repeatedly at post try cycling through the input selection on your monitor to make sure you are on the right input and see if it's actually there and it missed detecting the active port.


----------



## Erikk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> That should have worked and may be pointing to a bad rom chip which means you will have to RMA the board.
> However if your game try the following as a last ditch effort to avoid RMA. I understand this is for P67 but this method is also known to work for your board as well.
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1629404
> 
> Here are some other links you may find helpful.
> 
> http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P8Z68-V%20PRO/GEN3&os=&no=1722
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1037179438&postcount=2343
> 
> http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/8909-Make-A-bootable-USb-drive-For-Flashing-From-DOS


Yes, but the downgrade is already done. I have now 0501 and I think I will update to version 1101. So my question is, what is the best method for that. Should I do it via usb flash or can I also do it via AI Suite II?


----------



## Mrrad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Have you tried tapping the Delete key at POST. Depending on your monitor with an HDMI connection the screen start up is delayed to long to enable the initial view that you typically see at post yet it should go into bios and eventually present it on your monitor but will be delayed. I assume after you made the change to iGPU you are now connected to the mobo HDMI connection to your monitor HDMI port. Be sure your monitor is starting to the appropriate associated port or after tapping the delete key repeatedly at post try cycling through the input selection on your monitor to make sure you are on the right input and see if it's actually there and it missed detecting the active port.


Im still using the gtx 570 dvi port, I will have an hdmi to dvi adaptor coming in a couple of days. Since the bios isn't showing anymore I'm surprised that the gtx 570 is detected at the end... I guess I will wait for the adapter hopefully the bios will show in the i5 2500k gpu output...Thanks


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tradio*
> 
> have had a weird issue with my brand new ASUS P8Z68-V PRO (rig in my sig) for some reason the mobo will freeze right after the bios post (no windows 7 starting logo) when I have my secondary HDD plugged into sata port 2 (MY SSD is my OS Drive). The only way to get the machine to load windows is to disconnect the sata plug, let the machine boot into windows and then plug the sata HDD back in. Windows detects it fine and the drive works perfect. Its just for some real strange annoying reason that the mobo will freeze at start up when a hard drive is plugged into a certain port. Anyone have the same issue?


Make sure to attach your, I assume 120GB Intel 320 SSD (OS drive) to the Sata 6G_1 port to ease the mobo detection but take a few additional steps for a faster boot.

make sure your boot drive is 1st in the boot order

make sure the marvel controller is disabled

and make sure to use "Keep current" for the "Option ROM Message" found on the Boot tab is selected.

Of course save and exit after making theses changes.

GL


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrrad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Have you tried tapping the Delete key at POST. Depending on your monitor with an HDMI connection the screen start up is delayed to long to enable the initial view that you typically see at post yet it should go into bios and eventually present it on your monitor but will be delayed. I assume after you made the change to iGPU you are now connected to the mobo HDMI connection to your monitor HDMI port. Be sure your monitor is starting to the appropriate associated port or after tapping the delete key repeatedly at post try cycling through the input selection on your monitor to make sure you are on the right input and see if it's actually there and it missed detecting the active port.
> 
> 
> 
> Im still using the gtx 570 dvi port, I will have an hdmi to dvi adaptor coming in a couple of days. Since the bios isn't showing anymore I'm surprised that the gtx 570 is detected at the end... I guess I will wait for the adapter hopefully the bios will show in the i5 2500k gpu output...Thanks
Click to expand...

Your quote, "I just changed " initalate graphic adaptor to igpu" If you switched to iGPU in bios then you will need to attach to a mobo video connection otherwise if you don't have any of those connections available to you at this time clear cmos to revert back to default which should initiate the discrete card again and wait til you have proper connections before changing again to the iGPU.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erikk*
> 
> Yes, but the downgrade is already done. I have now 0501 and I think I will update to version 1101. So my question is, what is the best method for that. Should I do it via usb flash or can I also do it via AI Suite II?


I recommend flash using usb flash in BIOS (ASUS EZ Flash 2).


----------



## Mrrad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Your quote, "I just changed " initalate graphic adaptor to igpu" If you switched to iGPU in bios then you will need to attach to a mobo video connection otherwise if you don't have any of those connections available to you at this time clear cmos to revert back to default which should initiate the discrete card again and wait til you have proper connections before changing again to the iGPU.


Yea I definitely screwed up here , looks like the gtx 570 is still detected at the last minute though,,, I'm tempted to reset cmos but worried about losing saved profiles but hdmi adapter will come tue.. ,,, Thanks


----------



## Erikk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I recommend flash using usb flash in BIOS (ASUS EZ Flash 2).


I have tried it, but doesn't work, still not able to change to multiplier higher than 33.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> and make sure to use "Keep current" for the "Option ROM Message" found on the Boot tab is selected.
> Of course save and exit after making theses changes.
> GL


Why is that?
What is the difference from the setting "Force Bios" ?
I have marvell also disabled on my board, should I also change "Option ROM Messages" to "keep current" and why ?

Thanks for explaining !


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> and make sure to use "Keep current" for the "Option ROM Message" found on the Boot tab is selected.
> Of course save and exit after making theses changes.
> GL
> 
> 
> 
> Why is that?
> What is the difference from the setting "Force Bios" ?
> I have marvell also disabled on my board, should I also change "Option ROM Messages" to "keep current" and why ?
> 
> Thanks for explaining !
Click to expand...

It shaves a bit of time off the post for me. For some it gets rid of the double post screen which is annoying at best with the marvel ctrl enabled. Unless for some reason you need the see the option ROM message or have your system delay looking for it at post why not? Force Bios I think will force the third party ROM message at post. This option goes way back and was introduced back in the NF2 days as was Keep Current any who I don't use Force Bios and prefer as fast a boot as possible which for me varies between 30-35 sec to a usable desktop from a cold start.


----------



## TwoCables

Omg. Do you guys remember how I said that I had my memory voltage set to Auto? I said that I believed the Auto setting was setting it to 1.5V, but I was wrong. It turns out it was setting it 1.65V - even when using the X.M.P. profile instead of Manual. I guess I was just assuming that it was setting it to 1.5V because that's what's in the SPD.

So, I have it manually set to 1.5V again. lol


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Omg. Do you guys remember how I said that I had my memory voltage set to Auto? I said that I believed the Auto setting was setting it to 1.5V, but I was wrong. It turns out it was setting it 1.65V - even when using the X.M.P. profile instead of Manual. I guess I was just _assuming_ that it was setting it to 1.5V because that's what's in the SPD.
> 
> So, I have it manually set to 1.5V again. lol


Lol. 1.65V isn't too high though but that is if you are overclocking the RAM. I know that you don't overclock the RAM modules so 1.5V is great


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol. 1.65V isn't too high though but that is if you are overclocking the RAM. I know that you don't overclock the RAM modules so 1.5V is great


lol yeah, I know that.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> lol yeah, I know that.


Yup, I just reitirated it, lol.


----------



## TwoCables

I'm kind of wondering now if that might have been the reason for some of my strange instabilities. I remember learning somewhere that sometimes a higher-than-necessary memory voltage can cause some instabilities.

I put my settings back down to Medium LLC, Phase Control to Optimized, Duty Control to T. Probe, Offset to +0.065V, and C3 and C6 enabled.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm kind of wondering now if that might have been the reason for some of my strange instabilities. I remember learning somewhere that sometimes a higher-than-necessary memory voltage can cause some instabilities.
> 
> I put my settings back down to Medium LLC, Phase Control to Optimized, Duty Control to T. Probe, Offset to +0.065V, and C3 and C6 enabled.


Regarding the Phase Control and Duty Control, I've read before in shadowfax's post that using Optimized and T. Probe, respectively, leads to CPU throttling for his system and IIRC his CPU was only at 4.7GHz (2500K). So I'm going to set mine at Extreme and VRM frequency to 350 again. I don't think T. Probe will be useful in my case also, because my ambient temp is higher than what you guys have so I don't want the motherboard automatically balancing due to temps.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> It shaves a bit of time off the post for me. For some it gets rid of the double post screen which is annoying at best with the marvel ctrl enabled. Unless for some reason you need the see the option ROM message or have your system delay looking for it at post why not? Force Bios I think will force the third party ROM message at post. This option goes way back and was introduced back in the NF2 days as was Keep Current any who I don't use Force Bios and prefer as fast a boot as possible which for me varies between 30-35 sec to a usable desktop from a cold start.


Thanks for the response, I changed it also to ''Keep current'' but can not say I noticed a faster boot. Although my boot is already very fast - around 30 sec also.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Regarding the Phase Control and Duty Control, I've read before in shadowfax's post that using Optimized and T. Probe, respectively, leads to CPU throttling for his system and IIRC his CPU was only at 4.7GHz (2500K).


Well for my 4,5 Ghz OC I dont have any problems with throttling while using the exact same settings...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Thanks for the response, I changed it also to ''Keep current'' but can not say I noticed a faster boot. Although my boot is already very fast - around 30 sec also.
> Well for my 4,5 Ghz OC I dont have any problems with throttling while using the exact same settings...


If there is a difference, then it would only be in the POST time.

I don't have any throttling problems either.


----------



## kevindd992002

Oh ok. Regarding the VRM frequency, isn´t it bad to leave it at Auto?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. Regarding the VRM frequency, isn´t it bad to leave it at Auto?


Here's what Juan Jose at ASUS said in his guide on [H]ard|Forum:

"Enter a value of 350. This is best for sustaining stability at multis of 48x or above. This is key especially for running unrealistic loading testing such as prime or LinX".

Earlier in the guide, he says this: "VRM Frequency change to 350 - this value will allow for scaling to 50+ multi without issues"

I haven't seen anything anywhere in any guide that gives the impression that using Auto is bad.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Here's what Juan Jose at ASUS said in his guide on [H]ard|Forum:
> 
> "Enter a value of 350. This is best for sustaining stability at multis of 48x or above. This is key especially for running unrealistic loading testing such as prime or LinX".
> 
> Earlier in the guide, he says this: "VRM Frequency change to 350 - this value will allow for scaling to 50+ multi without issues"
> 
> I haven't seen anything anywhere in any guide that gives the impression that using Auto is bad.


Yeah, I guess. But if a CPU (like mine) is voltage hungry and my target is 47x but the voltage required to make it stable at that multiplier is usually the same voltage that most of you guys require to make 48x, isn't my target requiring these settings necessary for 48x and above as mentioned by JJ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, I guess. But if a CPU (like mine) is voltage hungry and my target is 47x but the voltage required to make it stable at that multiplier is usually the same voltage that most of you guys require to make 48x, isn't my target requiring these settings necessary for 48x and above as mentioned by JJ?


He's only talking about the multiplier.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> He's only talking about the multiplier.


Ah but doesn't it make sense that the multiplier is related to the vcore? I mean come to think of it, almost all settings in the board are related to vcore.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ah but doesn't it make sense that the multiplier is related to the vcore? I mean come to think of it, almost all settings in the board are related to vcore.


I really don't know. I'm just going by what he said, and all I see is the mentioning of the multiplier.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Hey guys. Just wanted to drop by and say that I have sent my P8Z68-v Pro/GEN3 Mobo to ASUS for RMA yesterday, and I am left with a bad feeling about it all.
I bought the motherboard about a year ago, brand new. Within 6-8 months my VGA Q-LED light started holding up boot. This is a defect and has affected numerous boards with the QLED system implemented.

The reason I feel poorly about it is its a high end mobo, I spent $200 for the board(after tax's) and it didn't even make it 8 months before acting up. Now I just spent $25 on shipping and shipping materials to RMA it back to ASUS. Given this is the 3rd ASUS board to randomly fail in the last year I feel this is unfair treatment of a customer.

I didn't break any of these boards, all of them where more expensive high end models, Yet I am expected to pay the shipping and packaging charges to send them their faulty motherboards back. Instead they act like they are doing me a favor for allowing me to send my motherboard back.

How should I bring up to ASUS that I feel I'm being taken advantage of and feel they should compensate me for my time, money and having to suffer though the faulty use of their poorly designed boards.


----------



## TwoCables

As much as I hate possibly ruining someone's day, I would call them and talk to a manager about it. I think you're right that they should be paying for the shipping and shipping materials because it's not your fault the motherboard is defective.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> As much as I hate possibly ruining someone's day, I would call them and talk to a manager about it. I think you're right that they should be paying for the shipping and shipping materials because it's not your fault the motherboard is defective.


I'll look to see if I can find a tech service number to call and ask around. I've come to the conclusion that if they leave me holding the bill on this I will be selling off all remaining ASUS products in my collection and replacing with ASROCK or Gigabyte. Thank you for your input TwoCables, Always a joy


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I'll look to see if I can find a tech service number to call and ask around. I've come to the conclusion that if they leave me holding the bill on this I will be selling off all remaining ASUS products in my collection and replacing with ASROCK or Gigabyte. Thank you for your input TwoCables, Always a joy


ASUS owns ASRock. That's why it's *AS*Rock. 

Anyway, you're welcome!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> ASUS owns ASRock. That's why it's *AS*Rock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, you're welcome!


I thought that ASRock was an older subsidiary that split from ASUS? Good to know. Looks Like gigabyte it is lol.

EDIT: I think you might be mistaken. I had always known that ASRock was done by ASUS but years ago ASRock split for ASUSTEK. Pegatron Corperation, They(ASRock) have no affiliations with ASUS. Pegatron Corperation is a byproduct of ASUS's 2007 restructuring, Pegatron and ASUS are seprate.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I thought that ASRock was an older subsidiary that split from ASUS? Good to know. Looks Like gigabyte it is lol.


You might be right, actually. I'm not really sure. I thought I was sure, but maybe it's that they owned them at first but now they don't. I don't know.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You might be right, actually. I'm not really sure. I thought I was sure, but maybe it's that they owned them at first but now they don't. I don't know.


ASUS started ASRock, but in 2007 Asus split up into 3 independent company's. Asustek, Pegatron Corp, and some other weird asian named company I cannot remeber.

Pagatron Corp ended up with ASRock, While all 3 company's started from the same place They have been divided for years.
Atleast that's how I remeber it all going down, The wiki's are vauge at best though.

This might explain how/why ASrock became a top mobo Mfg is the last few years?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> ASUS started ASRock, but in 2007 Asus split up into 3 independent company's. Asustek, Pegatron Corp, and some other weird asian named company I cannot remeber.
> 
> Pagatron Corp ended up with ASRock, While all 3 company's started from the same place They have been divided for years.
> Atleast that's how I remeber it all going down, The wiki's are vauge at best though.
> 
> This might explain how/why ASrock became a top mobo Mfg is the last few years?


Yeah, that's what I read too just a few minutes ago. 

I would agree that this must be how ASRock has finally come around to making good motherboards. All they have to do now is start making higher quality manuals. The screenshots leave a lot to be desired!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I read too just a few minutes ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would agree that this must be how ASRock has finally come around to making good motherboards. All they have to do now is start making higher quality manuals. The screenshots leave a lot to be desired!


Yea, its complicated to sort out who owns who lol.

I will say I have had some great experiance's with ASRock boards. They are dirt cheap and offer great sets of feature's for the price. I payed $15 cash(no rebate) for my ASRock 880GM-LE FX and its been amazing for the price.

I will report back with ASUS response to my request about shipping costs. Would be a shame to send me to their competition, I buy a lot of ASUS stuff...


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone know if there is a newer compatibe version of the fan expert software other than whats listed in the downloads section for a P8P67 Pro rev 3.1?


----------



## brfield

So, after months of perfect stability, I have started to have BSODs with 0x124.
I disabled all my C States just to see, didn't help.
http://valid.canardpc.com/2721391

I don't want to have to lower my clock, my temps are fantastic. Is it a voltage thing? I tried raising the VSCIOO(I think that's what it's called) to a tad above 1.7V, and am trying that now.

edit:
Some of you may remember me, as I have done this whole process with help from you guys before (for which, I am very thankful). This just started out of nowhere.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> So, after months of perfect stability, I have started to have BSODs with 0x124.
> I disabled all my C States just to see, didn't help.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2721391
> 
> I don't want to have to lower my clock, my temps are fantastic. Is it a voltage thing? I tried raising the VSCIOO(I think that's what it's called) to a tad above 1.7V, and am trying that now.


It probably needs a higher core voltage because 1.336V for 4.5 GHz is a little on the low side for the 2500K.


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It probably needs a higher core voltage because 1.336V for 4.5 GHz is a little on the low side for the 2500K.


Is there still some debate about the C-States? Because with them disabled it seems my CPU refuses to go to idle clocks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Is there still some debate about the C-States? Because with them disabled it seems my CPU refuses to go to idle clocks.


That's because you have C1E disabled.

Are you using an Offset voltage?


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> That's because you have C1E disabled.
> 
> Are you using an Offset voltage?


Yes I am, currently set to -0.020V iirc.

If you remember my last chip was crazy voltage hungry, like 1.45V for for a 4.5GHz OC.
This one was an Intel RMA.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Yes I am, currently set to -0.020V iirc.
> 
> If you remember my last chip was crazy voltage hungry, like 1.45V for for a 4.5GHz OC.
> This one was an Intel RMA.


My memory isn't what it used to be, but I recognized your name immediately. 

What LLC setting are you using?


----------



## brfield

This should make it easier:
Don't know max file/post size, so the pics are at minimal quality via photoshop.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> This should make it easier:
> Don't know max file/post size, so the pics are at minimal quality via photoshop.


There isn't much of a maximum. The best thing to do with screenshots is save them in Microsoft Paint using the PNG format.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> This should make it easier:
> Don't know max file/post size, so the pics are at minimal quality via photoshop.


You can disable Internal PLL Overvoltage. After disabling this, you will probably notice that your POST time is shorter by about 2-3 seconds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*


Since your overclock is only at 4.5 GHz, you can make these changes without any adverse effects:


VRM Frequency: Enabled
Phase Control: Optimized
Duty Control: T. Probe
CPU Current Capability: 100%

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*


If you ever see in CPU-Z that your BCLK is sitting under 100.0 MHz (such as 99.8 MHz), then disabling CPU Spread Spectrum will fix it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*


Set C1E to Enabled, and C3 and C6 to Disabled.

If you're not using any virtual machines, then you can disable Intel Virtualization Technology.


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There isn't much of a maximum. The best thing to do with screenshots is save them in Microsoft Paint using the PNG format.
> 
> You can disable Internal PLL Overvoltage. After disabling this, you will probably notice that your POST time is shorter by about 2-3 seconds.
> 
> Since your overclock is only at 4.5 GHz, you can make these changes without any adverse effects:
> 
> [*] VRM Frequency: Enabled
> [*] Phase Control: Optimized
> [*] Duty Control: T. Probe
> [*] CPU Current Capability: 100%
> 
> If you ever see in CPU-Z that your BCLK is sitting under 100.0 MHz (such as 99.8 MHz), then disabling CPU Spread Spectrum will fix it.
> 
> Set C1E to Enabled, and C3 and C6 to Disabled.
> 
> If you're not using any virtual machines, then you can disable Intel Virtualization Technology.


Changes made, will stress test and play some games to let you know.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Changes made, will stress test and play some games to let you know.


These changes aren't going to get rid of the BSODs or improve stability or anything like that. I still say that I think you should try to use an Offset that gets you at least 1.352V while running Prime95.

So, slow down: we're not done yet.


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> These changes aren't going to get rid of the BSODs or improve stability or anything like that. I still say that I think you should try to use an Offset that gets you at least 1.356V while running Prime95.
> 
> So, slow down: we're not done yet.


I've got time. lol. Just making sure I am going okay with what I have at the moment.
Currently IBT is pushing the temps up to 80C, which isn't too bad for a Hyper 212 Evo I think. Temps are my main reason right now for keeping voltage as low as I can get it.

Also, part of the problem I think is the negative offset, as I have had BSODs happen at idle while I'm away, or overnight and such. Maybe a Vdroop problem?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> I've got time. lol. Just making sure I am going okay with what I have at the moment.


Those changes shouldn't affect stability because of how small the overclock is. It would be different if you were at 4.8 GHz, but then I wouldn't want to recommend Optimized or T. Probe because using Extreme for those 2 settings is really only needed for the bigger overclocks that approach 5 GHz.

So you can go ahead and increase the voltage by adjusting the Offset to a smaller negative integer, or even shift over to a positive Offset beginning with +0.005V (if the smaller negative integers don't work). The idea is to end up with at least 1.352V in CPU-Z while running Prime95.

Negative or positive offset, it doesn't matter. What matters is the resulting core voltage.


----------



## brfield

Coretemp is reporting a VID of 1.4V at 4.5GHz while running IBT, but the actual voltage at the moment is 1.328V
I will go into my bios in a few and change the offset.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Coretemp is reporting a VID of 1.4V at 4.5GHz while running IBT, but the actual voltage at the moment is 1.328V
> I will go into my bios in a few and change the offset.


The VID is not an actual voltage; it's just informational. It's supposedly the voltage that would be needed to keep that multiplier stable. Each multiplier has its own VID.

So in other words, I don't need to know what your VID is.  For that matter, you don't really need to know either. The only time it's really useful is when you want help calculating what your offset will need to be.


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The VID is not an actual voltage; it's just informational. It's supposedly the voltage that would be needed to keep that multiplier stable. Each multiplier has its own VID.
> 
> So in other words, I don't need to know what your VID is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For that matter, you don't really need to know either. The only time it's really useful is when you want help calculating what your offset will need to be.


I got that part, Basically how I calculate the offset is VID +/- the offset would theoretically be you voltage, right?


----------



## brfield

Also, would you say 4.5 GHz is usally about that point where you see diminishing returns in tems of voltage needed to reach stability? I ask because with my previous OC endeavours, after I tried to go past 4.5 GHZ I needed a lot more voltage, in the way of 1.4ish volts.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> I got that part, Basically how I calculate the offset is VID +/- the offset would theoretically be you voltage, right?


If you have absolutely no vDroop, then it would be a simple process of finding the difference between your idle voltage (while in Manual Mode) and VID. The difference is your Offset. However, the more vDroop there is, the less straightforward this calculation is.

That's really the only way I've ever found to calculate it. Without factoring in the idle voltage in Manual Mode, you may as well just stick to complete guesswork.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Also, would you say 4.5 GHz is usally about that point where you see diminishing returns in tems of voltage needed to reach stability? I ask because with my previous OC endeavours, after I tried to go past 4.5 GHZ I needed a lot more voltage, in the way of 1.4ish volts.


I believe that this can't be answered because it's different for each CPU.


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> If you have absolutely no vDroop, then it would be a simple process of finding the difference between your idle voltage (while in Manual Mode) and VID. The difference is your Offset. However, the more vDroop there is, the less straightforward this calculation is.
> 
> That's really the only way I've ever found to calculate it. Without factoring in the idle voltage in Manual Mode, you may as well just stick to complete guesswork.
> 
> I believe that this can't be answered because it's different for each CPU.


Well, so far Prime is stable with a voltage of 1.344V, but it's fluctuating between 1.328, 1.336, 1.344, and 1.352 volts.
So it seems that this offset is capable of allowing it to go to 1.352V, but the CPU just isn't pulling it all the time. It rarely gets to it, and when it does it's there for a fraction of a second.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> Well, so far Prime is stable with a voltage of 1.344V, but it's fluctuating between 1.328, 1.336, 1.344, and 1.352 volts.


What were the fluctuations before increasing the voltage?


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What were the fluctuations before increasing the voltage?


It pegged 1.336V with an occasional drop to 1.328V


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> It pegged 1.336V with an occasional drop to 1.328V


Wow. So then maybe you increased the voltage just enough. We'll see though.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. So then maybe you increased the voltage just enough. We'll see though.


FWIW, and I know that every chip is different, the CPU-Z voltage for my 2500K @ 4.5 under Prime95 load bounces between 1.336 and 1.344 with a negative offset of .035. So, it looks like you are very close.


----------



## brfield

At about 75 minutes of prime, stable. Now to play some ArmA 3.

Also, just bought a 7950 last night, gonna be awesome!


----------



## brfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> FWIW, and I know that every chip is different, the CPU-Z voltage for my 2500K @ 4.5 under Prime95 load bounces between 1.336 and 1.344 with a negative offset of .035. So, it looks like you are very close.


My offset prior to this was -.030V


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> My offset prior to this was -.030V


Every CPU is different, and it also depends on what your VID is for the multiplier you are trying to achieve and what your LLC setting is.


----------



## Qlix

System:
i5-3570k @ 3.8 stock voltages
P8P67-Pro BIOS 3602
4x2g GSkill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL
Corsair VX550
Corsair H55

Basically this board will not let me install 4 sticks at once anymore. I can put any combination of any 2 sticks into any 2 slots and the system will POST and read 1600mhz. If I add 2 more it will not POST and memOK! button cant even find the proper settings like it used to.

As of 2 days ago I was running @ 4.0 @ < 65c with all 4 sticks running @ 1600. I ran P95 blend for 2 days, when I stopped the test, I crashed. Have not been able to get 4 sticks running since.

I have tested each stick individually, I have tested all slots as reliably as I can (sets of 2 in each channel). I am at a loss.

I know there used to be an issue with cold booting and having the board misread timings and speeds. I do not have that issue with 2 sticks, the extra 2 sticks seem to be the issue.

Does anyone have any insight as to what may be happening? voltages dont matter, speeds dont matter, It simply will not accept 4 sticks. I have been through Asus forums over and over and cant find anyone with the same issue.

Any help is greatly appreciated as usual.

My Validation


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> So, after months of perfect stability, I have started to have BSODs with 0x124.
> 
> I disabled all my C States just to see, didn't help.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2721391
> 
> I don't want to have to lower my clock, my temps are fantastic. Is it a voltage thing? I tried raising the VSCIOO(I think that's what it's called) to a tad above 1.7V, and am trying that now.
> 
> 
> 
> It probably needs a higher core voltage because 1.336V for 4.5 GHz is a little on the low side for the 2500K.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. So then maybe you increased the voltage just enough. We'll see though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, and I know that every chip is different, the CPU-Z voltage for my 2500K @ 4.5 under Prime95 load bounces between 1.336 and 1.344 with a negative offset of .035. So, it looks like you are very close.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> My offset prior to this was -.030V
> 
> 
> 
> Every CPU is different, and it also depends on what your VID is for the multiplier you are trying to achieve and what your LLC setting is.
Click to expand...

+1 every chip being different.

2500K @ 4.5GHz on (1.288-1.312)v for me.


----------



## bodean

Has anyone noticed the download links no longer work on ASUS website?
I'm trying to access the download page for my MB, P8Z68 V/Gen3
When I try to access it, it just takes me to the product over view page, no download links. Can anyone else test their MB and see if you can access downloads?

http://www.asus.com/support is the site, I put in the model number, and it goes to product overview


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Has anyone noticed the download links no longer work on ASUS website?
> I'm trying to access the download page for my MB, P8Z68 V/Gen3
> When I try to access it, it just takes me to the product over view page, no download links. Can anyone else test their MB and see if you can access downloads?
> 
> http://www.asus.com/support is the site, I put in the model number, and it goes to product overview


Works for me. I input P8Z68 on that page and searched and that brought up a page where it showed the various P8Z68 boards and then I selected the P8Z68-V PRO link and that brought me to a page asking me for my OS.


----------



## bodean

Thanks, seems the download page again loads for me too.

Would appreciate if some of you could critique my overclock. I have an i7-2600K processor, OCed now on air only. Would like to get up to 4.4 or 4.5, as I don't feel I need to OC much more for what I do. What I want to make sure is, that when I am not doing something under heavy load (ie gaming) that it is running at a low setting and using less power, and these settings look alright. That is what I am running now, and mostly stable.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, seems the download page again loads for me too.
> 
> Would appreciate if some of you could criticque my overclock. I have an i7-2600K processor, OCed to 3.4GHZ on air only. Don't feel I need to OC any more for what I do. What I want to make sure is, that when I am not doing something under heavy load (ie gaming) that it is running at a low setting and using less power


I really hope you do the extra effort of rotating your pics, just an advice though


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, seems the download page again loads for me too.
> 
> Would appreciate if some of you could criticque my overclock. I have an i7-2600K processor, OCed to 3.4GHZ on air only. Don't feel I need to OC any more for what I do. What I want to make sure is, that when I am not doing something under heavy load (ie gaming) that it is running at a low setting and using less power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hope you do the extra effort of rotating your pics, just an advice though
Click to expand...


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by TwoCables
> 
> It probably needs a higher core voltage because 1.336V for 4.5 GHz is a little on the low side for the 2500K.


Nah, 1.336V for 4,5 Ghz for the 2500K is pretty standard, just look at my voltage for example.


----------



## TwoCables

I am disappointed that you guys criticized bodean for his photos instead of trying to help him. What has happened to this thread?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Has anyone noticed the download links no longer work on ASUS website?
> I'm trying to access the download page for my MB, P8Z68 V/Gen3
> When I try to access it, it just takes me to the product over view page, no download links. Can anyone else test their MB and see if you can access downloads?
> 
> http://www.asus.com/support is the site, I put in the model number, and it goes to product overview


Click the Support tab right next to "Gallery".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Thanks, seems the download page again loads for me too.
> 
> Would appreciate if some of you could critique my overclock. I have an i7-2600K processor, OCed now on air only. Would like to get up to 4.4 or 4.5, as I don't feel I need to OC much more for what I do. What I want to make sure is, that when I am not doing something under heavy load (ie gaming) that it is running at a low setting and using less power, and these settings look alright. That is what I am running now, and mostly stable.


You can take actual screenshots in the UEFI BIOS by pressing F12 while a USB flash drive is connected. They're saved as BMPs, so it's then best to change them to .PNGs in Microsoft Paint.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*


I don't see an overclock here. Where it says "By All Cores (Can Adjust in OS)", type *45* and press Enter.

No other changes need to be made here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*


I'll be recommending that you enable C3 and C6, so I recommend lowering the Load-Line Calibration to Medium.

The VRM Frequency does not need to be Manually set to 350 for only 4.5 GHz. This can be set to either Auto or Enabled. I recommend Enabled.

Phase Control doesn't need to be set to Extreme for only 4.5 GHz. I recommend Optimized.

Do not use "Auto" for an Offset. Start with *0.005* (press Enter after you type it in) and increase it as needed - *and it is likely that you'll need to increase it above +0.005V for 4.5 GHz with a Medium LLC*. This is a good thing.

No other changes need to be made here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*


Disable CPU Spread Spectrum because otherwise your BCLK might sit at about 99.8 MHz instead of 100.0 MHz. This only affects the "Z" chipsets, such as Z68 and Z77. P67 is not affected.

No other changes need to be made here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*


You can probably disable HyperThreading, especially if all you're doing is gaming. However, if you know without a doubt that you need it, then leave it enabled. Some benefits to disabling it are:


You don't need as high of a core voltage for the same overclock
You get lower core temps, even if you don't lower your core voltage
Your maximum overclock potential goes up
It's easier to achieve stability

Some people also report "jittery" gaming performance with HyperThreading enabled, so that's another good reason to keep it disabled.

Enable C1E, C3, and C6 (instead of having them set to Auto).

No other changes need to be made here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Nah, 1.336V for 4,5 Ghz for the 2500K is pretty standard, just look at my voltage for example.


No, during my time here on OCN, I've noticed that approximately 1.35V is about the average. Yes, there are variances up and down as you're experiencing with your system (because no two systems are perfectly identical), but the average is about 1.35V.


----------



## bodean

Twocables. Thanks for the great help . No worries on the pictures comments, I figured them out =)

A question. You said set CPU Offset voltage to 0.005. You said I probably will have to increase that. How will I know? System wont be stable? Also, you said i may need to increase it and thats a good thing. Why is that/ And how much should i be increasing it?

Upon setting your recommendations, Windows 8 boot ran into problems (clock_Watchdog_timeout)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Twocables. Thanks for the great help . No worries on the pictures comments, I figured them out =)


You're welcome!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> A question. You said set CPU Offset voltage to 0.005. You said I probably will have to increase that. How will I know? System wont be stable?


In one way or another, you'll notice instability. Like, Windows might not even be able to finish starting, or you might get lock-ups while using Windows, or you might get a BSOD, or you might have software problems or problems with Windows while trying to use it, or it might be stable enough to run Prime95 but it won't get very far. Things like that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Also, you said i may need to increase it and thats a good thing. Why is that/


The reason I said it that way is every time I tell someone that they need to increase their Offset, they express worry or concern about perhaps getting too close to some maximum safe Offset or something like that. There really is no maximum safe Offset because all that matters is what the resulting core voltage is.

So, I admit that I was kind of trying a new way of wording it. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> And how much should i be increasing it?


In increments of 0.005V, but you don't have to strictly stay to this increment. Sometimes you'll just have a feeling based on the results you're getting that a huge increment is needed so that you aren't wasting your time with the smallest increment of 0.005V.

Anyway, I'm using +0.065 to get 1.368V to 1.376V under full load with a Medium LLC. With Ultra High LLC, I need +0.005V. However, I wasn't able to have C3 and C6 enabled with the Ultra High LLC setting because then I would get idle lock-ups. With a Medium LLC, I can have C3 and C6 enabled with no problem and I also get a ~15W reduction in my idle power consumption! 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> And should I be running XMP profile or Set AI Overclock tuner to manual?


I've found no difference between the two (so far), so I would say that you don't have to use Manual.


----------



## bodean

Windows 8 didn't boot. A blue screen about clock frequency. Ill up the offset to .045 and try that


----------



## TwoCables

Ok cool.


----------



## bodean

Great. Im actually starting at 4300GHZ and see what it does before pushing to 4.5
I am running a temp program, but the temps with aftermark cooler (air) seem high, no? This is just sitting at desktop, not running apps. Not sure why it's a max OC, and not scaled down due to not doing anything. I will run Prime95 today and tonight and see what it reports also.


----------



## Qlix

Look
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Great. Im actually starting at 4300GHZ and see what it does before pushing to 4.5
> I am running a temp program, but the temps with aftermark cooler (air) seem high, no? This is just sitting at desktop, not running apps. Not sure why it's a max OC, and not scaled down due to not doing anything. I will run Prime95 today and tonight and see what it reports also.


Look at the CPU load... That's definitely not sitting at desktop not running anything. Is P95 running in the background?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Great. Im actually starting at 4300GHZ and see what it does before pushing to 4.5
> I am running a temp program, but the temps with aftermark cooler (air) seem high, no? This is just sitting at desktop, not running apps. Not sure why it's a max OC, and not scaled down due to not doing anything. I will run Prime95 today and tonight and see what it reports also.


Prime95 is likely running in the background. Clicking the X to close it only minimizes it. This behavior can be changed.


----------



## bodean

Damn, you're right. I turned it off, temps are now at 38C-40C.
Will the settings you mentioned above for me, scale the CPU down when Im not doing anything (ie. not run at 4.3GHZ unless needed)?
If not, how would I do that, and is it beneficial?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Damn, you're right. I turned it off, temps are now at 38C-40C.
> Will the settings you mentioned above for me, scale the CPU down when Im not doing anything (ie. not run at 4.3GHZ unless needed)?
> If not, how would I do that, and is it beneficial?


Well, haven't you noticed yet? Open CPU-Z or Real Temp (Real Temp is better for a more accurate reading of what the CPU is actually doing).


----------



## malmental

temps and voltage are slightly high to me.


----------



## TwoCables

I have to agree that the temps are a bit high for this voltage (1.368V) at only 4.3 GHz.

Which air cooler do you have?


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I have to agree that the temps are a bit high for this voltage (1.368V) at only 4.3 GHz.
> 
> Which air cooler do you have?


COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus


----------



## malmental

re-seat the Hyper 212+ and do not use the OEM paste that came with it....
AS5 or better in quality.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus


Oh, I thought so. Did you fill in the gaps between the exposed heatpipes with thermal paste first before you did more of a normal application? If not, then this is why your temps are higher than we are expecting.


----------



## bodean

I didn't put thermal past on the heat pipes, just on the flat part that touches the CPU.
Is this something I need to worry about or fix now? Or will it be ok if I leave it?


----------



## malmental

FIX IT NOW.!!!!!! do not wait when you now know your temps are running high.
even though your voltage is high, your temps are higher than the voltage should allow.
so re-seating the cooler is the first step..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> I didn't put thermal past on the heat pipes, just on the flat part that touches the CPU.
> Is this something I need to worry about or fix now? Or will it be ok if I leave it?


You do it like this:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5



















Then it spreads like this:










The black marks are where the CPU's corners are.

Thermal paste enables the heat to transfer from the CPU to the heatsink. By not having thermal paste in between these exposed heatpipes, you're not using that surface area and therefore there's no heat being transferred to those parts.


----------



## bodean

Thanks, Ill go buy some AS5 now and redo it. Those pics do help, but kind of contradict what AS recommends (which is a single line on the processor). Wondering, do I do both applications? Or just one?

http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Thanks, Ill go buy some AS5 now and redo it. Those pics do help, but kind of contradict what AS recommends (which is a single line on the processor). Wondering, do I do both applications? Or just one?
> 
> http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf


That's for solid, flat-base heatsinks, not HDTs. Apply it as shown in the pictures I posted above.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus


Just as a matter of reference, I also have this same cooler and my idle temp is about 35-38C and my 100% load temps vary between 57-62C. This is at 4.5 Ghz, 1.336-1.344V under load. Room temp is about 70F and I have an Antec 300 case.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
> 
> 
> 
> Just as a matter of reference, I also have this same cooler and my idle temp is about 35-38C and my 100% load temps vary between 57-62C. This is at 4.5 Ghz, 1.336-1.344V under load. Room temp is about 70F and I have an Antec 300 case.
Click to expand...

that idle temp would piss me off...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> that idle temp would piss me off...


It's probably not downclocking and downvolting.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's probably not downclocking and downvolting.


I'm not at home to verify but as I recall, my idle voltage varies between about 0.980v and 1.000v. I have C1E enabled and C3 and C6 disabled.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> that idle temp would piss me off...


What would would be a better target to shoot for?


----------



## malmental

I still have 2x i5 SB's running CM TX3 with dual 92mm fans and AS5 paste and ALL of them idle Package is around 29-31C
with the Cores 0-4 a few C's lower.

the i5 IB on a CM TX3 idles even lower..


----------



## malmental




----------



## TwoCables

My idle temps are always in the mid to upper 20s.


----------



## am dew1

I will post pics of my OC settings when I get home. I'm relatively new at OC'ing so maybe there are some things you guys can suggest that may help lower my idle temps. I will draw the line at unmounting/remounting my cooler...that thing was a pain in the rear to mount.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I will post pics of my OC settings when I get home. I'm relatively new at OC'ing so maybe there are some things you guys can suggest that may help lower my idle temps. I will draw the line at unmounting/remounting my cooler...that thing was a pain in the rear to mount.


when is the GPU coming.?


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> when is the GPU coming.?


No need for one...I don't do any gaming and the integrated HD3000 video is good enough for my needs.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> when is the GPU coming.?
> 
> 
> 
> No need for one...I don't do any gaming and the integrated HD3000 video is good enough for my needs.
Click to expand...

that hurts my head to hear....









man if your in the US then I will send you a GT 430 I have laying around just to get you off that iGP...
if interested then PM me, it will help your overclock as well getting off that iGP.


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, see if any of these leds stay lit. Normally you should hear beeps but it's worth checking.


Its the CPU light that stays RED


----------



## kevindd992002

@TwoCables

My comment to boodean was a form of constructive criticism, no need to be disappointed really.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @TwoCables
> 
> My comment to boodean was a form of constructive criticism, no need to be disappointed really.


No, I think it's my fault: I was still waking up.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, I think it's my fault: I was still waking up.


No worries


----------



## sinnedone

I would personally start with a fixed voltage setup to figure out what is the lowest stable voltage you can run at given frequency. Then whe you know that play with the offset feature.

As far as the idle temps, it depends on what your ambient temperature is. If its 30c then 38-40c idle isnt bad, now if ambient is around 25c then yes 38-40 at idle isnt great. Could hae to do with voltage not stepping down atidle as well.

I personally dont like AS5, it takes too long to set in and is thick to work with. Even after the burn in time it performs as well as the rest. MX4 has worked beter for me.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Just as a matter of reference, I also have this same cooler and my idle temp is about 35-38C and my 100% load temps vary between 57-62C. This is at 4.5 Ghz, 1.336-1.344V under load. Room temp is about 70F and I have an Antec 300 case.


My idle temps are a little lower than what I thought...


----------



## TwoCables

That's still too high for that idle voltage. It should be in the mid 20s.


----------



## malmental

I say 29-30C for idle is good enough...


----------



## TwoCables

At least the load temps are good.


----------



## am dew1

Here are my settings. I only included screens that I thought would be important for OC and temp purposes...if I left anything out, let me know. Suggestions welcome! And thank you!!


----------



## malmental

LLC - medium
CPU current capability - 130%

is your RAM 1.65v or 1.5v in it's specs, I see your running it @ 1.65v.?


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> LLC - medium
> CPU current capability - 130%
> 
> is your RAM 1.65v or 1.5v in it's specs, I see your running it @ 1.65v.?


Thanks Mal. RAM spec is 1.65v. I just manually set it to 1.55v...we'll see how that goes.


----------



## am dew1

Made recommended changes in addition to setting RAM voltage to 1.55v and Prime95 failed real quick. Changed RAM voltage back to AUTO, same thing.


----------



## malmental

change the LLC back and the put the RAM back to 1.5V...
is it 1.5V rated or 1.65V rated RAM.?


----------



## TwoCables

That's because you have to increase your voltage in order to compensate for the extra vDroop that you're getting with Medium LLC.


----------



## malmental

^
I forgot to mention that...


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> change the LLC back and the put the RAM back to 1.5V...
> is it 1.5V rated or 1.65V rated RAM.?


Before your post, I changed LLC to Ultra High (originally was Extreme) and so far Prime95 is testing OK. CPU-Z is alternating between 1.328v and 1.336v under full load.

My RAM is rated at 1.65v.


----------



## am dew1

I hate to stop here, but I have to. I'll set my RAM back to 1.5v sometime this weekend and see how it goes. To be continued...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*


Are you overclocking the iGPU? If so, then do you need to?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*


Changes I recommend:


Load-Line Calibration: Medium
VRM Spread Spectrum: Enabled
Increase the Offset voltage because the Medium LLC setting provides more vDroop

There's no reason or need to use anything other than 100% for the CPU Current Capability because your overclock is only 4.5 GHz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*



DRAM Voltage: manually enter what your memory's stock voltage is. You see, it's trying to use 1.66V right now.
Everything else is ok, but you probably don't really need to manually enter a CPU PLL Voltage for only 4.5 GHz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*


If these are the stock timings for your memory, then ok.  If not, then I can't be of much help because I have never gotten into memory overclocking.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*


This is all good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*


If you're not using any Virtual Machines, then you can disable Intel Virtualization Technology.

You can enable C3 and C6 because now your LLC is at Medium. You will also enjoy a lower idle power draw now.


----------



## TwoCables

I apologize, but I have to log out now. I have seriously run out of time.


----------



## kevindd992002

TwoCables, this might be interest to you:

VRM Spread Spectrum: Assigns enhanced modulation of the VRM output in order the peak magnitude of radiated noise into nearby circuitry. *This setting should only be used at stock operating frequency*, as the modulation routines can impact transient response.

I got it here: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?19186-ASUS-ROG-Maximus-V-Formula-UEFI-OC-Tuning-Guide


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I apologize, but I have to log out now. I have seriously run out of time.


No problem at all. I am away from my PC for most of the time now until Monday eve so I will address your latest questions and recommendations above then. Thanks.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I apologize, but I have to log out now. I have seriously run out of time.
> 
> 
> 
> No problem at all. I am away from my PC for most of the time now until Monday eve so I will address your latest questions and recommendations above then. Thanks.
Click to expand...

have you squared away later on today...


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> have you squared away later on today...










Thanks!


----------



## TwoCables

There's also this:

Quote:


> *All "Current Capability" settings:* A setting of 100% on all of these settings should be ample to overclock processors using conventional cooling methods. If pushing processors using Ln2 or other sub-zero forms of cooling then increase the current threshold to each voltage rail respectively. A setting of 140% should ensure OCP does not trip during benchmarks.


http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?19186-ASUS-ROG-Maximus-V-Formula-UEFI-OC-Tuning-Guide


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There's also this:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?19186-ASUS-ROG-Maximus-V-Formula-UEFI-OC-Tuning-Guide


Yes, but I would leave mine at 140% because that is practically just setting the limit. It is just a safety precaution where it would never pass 140%. If the actual current draw is less than 140% then that's fine because I'm not increasing it if I set it to 140%.


----------



## dboythagr8

I am trying to update the BIOS on my Pz68 deluxe motherboard...when I go into BIOS, EZ Flash 2, and choose the .ROM I get an "Image Integrity Check failed" message. I have re-downloaded the image 3 times from Asus website, and I've used two different USB sticks...What is going on here?


----------



## alancsalt

Might need a stick formatted in FAT or FAT32?

Oh, and my memory is a bit fuzzy on this, but is it bottom of EZ mode (?) your USB stick can show twice, once as UEFI, once as something else, and only one works for flashing .....(?)


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Might need a stick formatted in FAT or FAT32?
> 
> Oh, and my memory is a bit fuzzy on this, but is it bottom of EZ mode (?) your USB stick can show twice, once as UEFI, once as something else, and only one works for flashing .....(?)


Both USB sticks are formatted to FAT/FAT32

Not familiar with the second point of your post.

Edit: nvm it updated successfully. I guess I choose the non gen3 z68 deluxe and that's what I was getting that message.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Might need a stick formatted in FAT or FAT32?
> 
> Oh, and my memory is a bit fuzzy on this, but is it bottom of EZ mode (?) your USB stick can show twice, once as UEFI, once as something else, and only one works for flashing .....(?)
> 
> 
> 
> Both USB sticks are formatted to FAT/FAT32
> 
> Not familiar with the second point of your post.
> 
> Edit: nvm it updated successfully. I guess I choose the non gen3 z68 deluxe and that's what I was getting that message.
Click to expand...

Ok, useless now, but worth knowing
In EZmode if you click boot menu at bottom a fat usb stick shows twice, under its usual name, and again with uefi before its name - and that was useful flashing GPU card bios before there was NVflash that worked in Windows. You had to select the UEFI one for it to work as a boot device.

OK, end of senile ramble......


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Are you overclocking the iGPU? If so, then do you need to?


I am, but doing so not necessarily because I need to but just because things do seem snappier when I do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Changes I recommend:
> 
> [*] Load-Line Calibration: Medium
> [*] VRM Spread Spectrum: Enabled
> [*] Increase the Offset voltage because the Medium LLC setting provides more vDroop


Just to be sure I understand correctly, to increase the Offset voltage, would I actually increase the value in BIOS or decrease it? Right now I am using a *negative* offset sign with a voltage value of .045.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There's no reason or need to use anything other than 100% for the CPU Current Capability because your overclock is only 4.5 GHz.


OK
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> [*] DRAM Voltage: manually enter what your memory's stock voltage is. You see, it's trying to use 1.66V right now.
> [*] Everything else is ok, but you probably don't really need to manually enter a CPU PLL Voltage for only 4.5 GHz.


OK
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> If these are the stock timings for your memory, then ok.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not, then I can't be of much help because I have never gotten into memory overclocking.


Those are stock except the ACT Time of 24 -- spec is 27 but I decided to try 24 and it seems to be stable so I left it that way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> If you're not using any Virtual Machines, then you can disable Intel Virtualization Technology.


I do use a VM so I will leave that enabled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You can enable C3 and C6 because now your LLC is at Medium. You will also enjoy a lower idle power draw now.


OK

I really appreciate the advice from all. I know there are a couple things I have set that may affect my OCing (IGPU and RAM being OC'd) so I understand that things may be affected by them in an unknown way. If I need to set those things back to stock in order to stabilize things, I will .


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I am, but doing so not necessarily because I need to but just because things do seem snappier when I do.


Oh. I don't know how this affects CPU overclocking, but I'm sure we can work with it being overclocked. It might be similar to having HyperThreading enabled with the 2600K, only perhaps a bit "worse" than that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Just to be sure I understand correctly, to increase the Offset voltage, would I actually increase the value in BIOS or decrease it? Right now I am using a *negative* offset sign with a voltage value of .045.


To increase it, you'd use -0.040, -0.035, -0.030, -0.025, -0.020, etc. So if you kept increasing it and started getting into the positive offset sign, then you'd keep increasing it by using +0.005, +0.010, +0.015, +0.020, etc.

It's just the difference between a negative integer and a positive one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Those are stock except the ACT Time of 24 -- spec is 27 but I decided to try 24 and it seems to be stable so I left it that way.


Oh. I haven't tried this before. Does it make a noticeable difference in performance?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I really appreciate the advice from all. I know there are a couple things I have set that may affect my OCing (IGPU and RAM being OC'd) so I understand that things may be affected by them in an unknown way. If I need to set those things back to stock in order to stabilize things, I will .


It's fun for me to be able to help out.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh. I don't know how this affects CPU overclocking, but I'm sure we can work with it being overclocked. It might be similar to having HyperThreading enabled with the 2600K, only perhaps a bit "worse" than that.


I am leaving it alone until we think it may be causing a problem. So far, so good (read on for results).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> To increase it, you'd use -0.040, -0.035, -0.030, -0.025, -0.020, etc. So if you kept increasing it and started getting into the positive offset sign, then you'd keep increasing it by using +0.005, +0.010, +0.015, +0.020, etc.
> 
> It's just the difference between a negative integer and a positive one


Got ya. I ended up with a positive offset value of .015 (as I recall) in order to make the system stable after making the other changes you recommended.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh. I haven't tried this before. Does it make a noticeable difference in performance?


I would say that it makes a minimal noticeable difference, but it could easily be just my imagination.

Overall, I think things are pretty good now.







I will do some more load testing later, but I ran Prime95 for about 10 minutes and all went well, the system seems very stable and my idle temps have dropped to the high 20'sC to low 30'sC range and my load temps are 58-62C.. It's really hard to tell the exact idle temps because even the smallest background thing will cause the temp to jump, but when the system is completely idle as I can get it, the temp reads 29-30C, according to Core Temp, which I run in my System Tray all the time to monitor my general temp and CPU usage.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I am leaving it alone until we think it may be causing a problem. So far, so good (read on for results).


Ok cool. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Got ya. I ended up with a positive offset value of .015 (as I recall) in order to make the system stable after making the other changes you recommended.


As long as it works! 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I would say that it makes a minimal noticeable difference, but it could easily be just my imagination.


I admit that I was going to blame it on the Placebo Effect.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Overall, I think things are pretty good now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will do some more load testing later, but I ran Prime95 for about 10 minutes and all went well, the system seems very stable and my idle temps have dropped to the high 20'sC to low 30'sC range and my load temps are 58-62C.. It's really hard to tell the exact idle temps because even the smallest background thing will cause the temp to jump, but when the system is completely idle as I can get it, the temp reads 29-30C, according to Core Temp, which I run in my System Tray all the time to monitor my general temp and CPU usage.


10 minutes is nowhere near enough to declare stability. The minimum recommended is about 12 hours. The more, the better. To make it even better, make sure that you're using Prime95 v27.7 build 2 or higher so that it is taking advantage of the AVX instruction set (Windows 7 SP1 is required). To make that even better, use the Custom Blend test and set it to use about 90% of your installed memory.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> 10 minutes is nowhere near enough to declare stability. The minimum recommended is about 12 hours. The more, the better. To make it even better, make sure that you're using Prime95 v27.7 build 2 or higher so that it is taking advantage of the AVX instruction set (Windows 7 SP1 is required). To make that even better, use the Custom Blend test and set it to use about 90% of your installed memory.


I understand and thanks for the tip about updating my Prime95.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I understand and thanks for the tip about updating my Prime95.


You're welcome!


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I am leaving it alone until we think it may be causing a problem. So far, so good (read on for results).
> Got ya. I ended up with a positive offset value of .015 (as I recall) in order to make the system stable after making the other changes you recommended.


I noticed that the load voltage was running up to 1.360V. Is that something of concern as long as my load temps are OK or should I lower the voltage a bit?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I understand and thanks for the tip about updating my Prime95.


There is no reason not to use 27.9 which is the latest. No difference in torture testing compared to 27.7 build 2 as the maker says but why not just use the latest?

Also, it is relatively useless to run Prime95 for only 12 hours but of course many will disagree with that. Here's my thread for your reference: www.overclock.net/t/1353607/prime-95-27-7-or-27-9 . Basically, with the default 15 minutes per fft interval, it will take around 23 hours to finish all 80+ FFTs. So a safe run time would be 24 hours. If my CPU OC is borderline unstable I pretty much get a BSOD 101 almost always between the 12th hour and the 24th hour.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I noticed that the load voltage was running up to 1.360V. Is that something of concern as long as my load temps are OK or should I lower the voltage a bit?


The best thing to do is use the minimum voltage needed, and you'll discover what you need through stability testing. This is a safe voltage though.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> There is no reason not to use 27.9 which is the latest. No difference in torture testing compared to 27.7 build 2 as the maker says but why not just use the latest?


Thats why he said ''or later'' ;-)


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Thats why he said ''or later'' ;-)


Yes, he said 27.7 or higher. I was just reiterating that there is no reason not to use 27.9, that is all.


----------



## TwoCables

Kevin, the reason I said it that way is to make sure that anyone who reads it full understands that AVX support began with v27.7 build 2. That way anyone who has v27.7 build 2 would understand that they don't have to use 27.9 just to get AVX support. That is also why I said Windows 7 SP1 is required because SP1 introduced the ability for software to take advantage of the AVX instruction set. In no way was I saying that everyone should use 27.7 build 2. All I was saying is that if you have 27.7 build 2 in Windows 7 SP1, then you have full AVX support.

So please, when I say something like that, please don't question it or make statements like that. I always choose my words very carefully and so I always mean what I say, and I say what I mean. Besides, why would anyone go out and get v27.7 build 2 if they are upgrading from an older version? I didn't say anything that would make someone feel that they should get v27.7 build 2 even though 27.9 is available. Besides, the page below does not offer 27.7:

http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/default.php

It only offers 27.9. So really, you wasted your time here. That's why I didn't say anything similar to what you just said: it wasn't needed.

I apologize for being so blunt. I just felt I had to say something.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Kevin, the reason I said it that way is to make sure that anyone who reads it full understands that AVX support began with v27.7 build 2. That way anyone who has v27.7 build 2 would understand that they don't have to use 27.9 just to get AVX support. That is also why I said Windows 7 SP1 is required because SP1 introduced the ability for software to take advantage of the AVX instruction set. In no way was I saying that everyone should use 27.7 build 2. All I was saying is that if you have 27.7 build 2 in Windows 7 SP1, then you have full AVX support.
> 
> So please, when I say something like that, please don't question it or make statements like that. I always choose my words very carefully and so I always mean what I say, and I say what I mean. Besides, why would anyone go out and get v27.7 build 2 if they are upgrading from an older version? I didn't say anything that would make someone feel that they should get v27.7 build 2 even though 27.9 is available. Besides, the page below does not offer 27.7:
> 
> http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/default.php
> 
> It only offers 27.9. So really, you wasted your time here. That's why I didn't say anything similar to what you just said: it wasn't needed.
> 
> I apologize for being so blunt. I just felt I had to say something.


Oh no no no. I wasn't actually questioning it, Two Cables. You probably misunderstood. I got your point, I even posted that 27.7 build 2 and 27.9 were exactly the same in terms of stress testing. The bug updates for 27.9 were only for Prime numbers crunching. It was just my opinion to use 27.9 because it is the latest, other than that sorry for the misunderstanding.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

I'm having problems installing *BLUETOOTH drivers* cuz when installing the controllers it cant finish installing them cuz each one that tries to add fails to be recognized by the windows. Is it something that I should activate cuz I tried last version of drivers but its the same issue...


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh no no no. I wasn't actually questioning it, Two Cables. You probably misunderstood. I got your point, I even posted that 27.7 build 2 and 27.9 were exactly the same in terms of stress testing. The bug updates for 27.9 were only for Prime numbers crunching. It was just my opinion to use 27.9 because it is the latest, other than that sorry for the misunderstanding.


Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you're both right







because I did not hesitate to download and install v27.9


----------



## brfield

I have the P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 and just added in a Radeon HD 7950. I took my 560ti and put it in slot 5 which is PCIe 2.0_2 while I put my 7950 in Slot 2, naturally that being PCIe 2.0_1
I understand, no SLI or X-Fire, and I get that it is going to limit both to 8 lanes.
Now, I can't get my 560ti to support CUDA or PhysX







Does this require the use of Hybrid PhysX, and if so, where is the newest? All I can see is that it has been stopped.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brfield*
> 
> I have the P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 and just added in a Radeon HD 7950. I took my 560ti and put it in slot 5 which is PCIe 2.0_2 while I put my 7950 in Slot 2, naturally that being PCIe 2.0_1
> I understand, no SLI or X-Fire, and I get that it is going to limit both to 8 lanes.
> Now, I can't get my 560ti to support CUDA or PhysX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this require the use of Hybrid PhysX, and if so, where is the newest? All I can see is that it has been stopped.


My info might be a bit outdated but when I got my 6950 I played with using my 460GTX. At the time you were stuck with using hacked driver's and only PhysX could be enabled, it was kind of a joke and really really really unstable at best. When it was working the gain's in performance were minimal from a video gamer perspective. It was HIGHLY dependant on the cards used. Come combinations suposedly worked like butter, other's(like mine) not so well. I was cautioned about the "YMMV" part when I undertook the challenge.

Results might be better suited for someone who does some kind of actual work.. This was a little over a year ago too. I'ma warn you... This can-o-worms was a massive pain in the butt.. As far as I know Nvidia won't support the use of PhysX or CUDA while an AMD GPU is present.


----------



## kizwan

You need to run the nvidia as primary card if you want to use Physx. Or both cards are nvidia. Basically monitor connected to nvidia card (the one intended to run Physx) & set as primary display.


----------



## kevindd992002

What is the sole purpose of Physx?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You need to run the nvidia as primary card if you want to use Physx. Or both cards are nvidia. Basically monitor connected to nvidia card (the one intended to run Physx) & set as primary display.


Not totally true when I did it. My primary GPU was the 6950, you may be speaking of a different method though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What is the sole purpose of Physx?


PhysX is Nvidia's way of trying to dominate the gaming market and partially justify their higher cost. Its just a different way of GPU computing giving additional GPU horse power., but game's have to be designed to use physX. It does NOT work on all game's. The list of supported game's is actually pretty slim. The new batman's use it though. Also has some use's in more work based environment's but I don't know much about that.

Most people never use it though.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Not totally true when I did it. My primary GPU was the 6950, you may be speaking of a different method though
> PhysX is Nvidia's way of trying to dominate the gaming market and partially justify their higher cost. Its just a different way of GPU computing giving additional GPU horse power., but game's have to be designed to use physX. It does NOT work on all game's. The list of supported game's is actually pretty slim. The new batman's use it though. Also has some use's in more work based environment's but I don't know much about that.
> 
> Most people never use it though.


Oh ok. I hear that it helps with AA and similar eyecandy features? If you decide to use a dedicated card for Physx, does it need to be powerful also?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. I hear that it helps with AA and similar eyecandy features? If you decide to use a dedicated card for Physx, does it need to be powerful also?


Yea, its an eye candy thing.. as in only useful on higher end system's.

The power of the card is up for debate. There are pages and pages on what work's best.. honestly with your 670 its a total waste of time. It should be able to rape any physX enabled game.

Its pretty rare for some one to actually spend money on a dedicated physX card. The cash is better spent going full SLI. Most people (myself included) use old GPU we have sitting around.


----------



## malmental

EYE-CANDY..!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yea, its an eye candy thing.. as in only useful on higher end system's.
> 
> The power of the card is up for debate. There are pages and pages on what work's best.. honestly with your 670 its a total waste of time. It should be able to rape any physX enabled game.
> 
> Its pretty rare for some one to actually spend money on a dedicated physX card. The cash is better spent going full SLI. Most people (myself included) use old GPU we have sitting around.


Oh ok. Thanks. And I don't want any extra heat being dissipated into my system.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yea, its an eye candy thing.. as in only useful on higher end system's.
> 
> The power of the card is up for debate. There are pages and pages on what work's best.. honestly with your 670 its a total waste of time. It should be able to rape any physX enabled game.
> 
> Its pretty rare for some one to actually spend money on a dedicated physX card. The cash is better spent going full SLI. Most people (myself included) use old GPU we have sitting around.


Oh ok. Thanks. And I don't want any extra heat being dissipated into my system.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. Thanks. And I don't want any extra heat being dissipated into my system.


time for a custom water loop maybe?


----------



## brfield

For me it's just the ability to use Cuda enabled applications, and there's talk that ArmA 3 might go with PhysX. Although I believe it is the PhysX SDK they're using. Just kinda to keep it there as an option. Regardless I'm keeping my 560ti in the system for my older display.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I noticed that the load voltage was running up to 1.360V. Is that something of concern as long as my load temps are OK or should I lower the voltage a bit?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The best thing to do is use the minimum voltage needed, and you'll discover what you need through stability testing. This is a safe voltage though.


I had to increase the offset value to a positive offset value of .020 and now my load voltage goes as high as 1.370. Is that OK?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> time for a custom water loop maybe?


Not anytime soon









Here's my case:


----------



## kevindd992002

If I'm not using the iGPU and Lucid Virtu on my board, what does Render Standby do? Do I need it enabled or disabled?


----------



## malmental

disable...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> disable...


Why? What happens when you enable it even though you're not using the iGPU?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> disable...
> 
> 
> 
> Why? What happens when you enable it even though you're not using the iGPU?
Click to expand...

doesn't it tie (link) in with your RAM.?
having it enable and using it I know links with your RAM, as far as having it enabled but not using it I think still links.
I remember noticing my RAM was less and WEI score was low on one of my earlier set-ups,
I went back into BIOS and disabled everything about the iGPU and back in Windows I got all my RAM available and normal scores.

as for the exact details I do not remember since it was a time back but ever since I always disable them.
I guess check for yourself and see.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> doesn't it tie (link) in with your RAM.?
> having it enable and using it I know links with your RAM, as far as having it enabled but not using it I think still links.
> I remember noticing my RAM was less and WEI score was low on one of my earlier set-ups,
> I went back into BIOS and disabled everything about the iGPU and back in Windows I got all my RAM available and normal scores.
> 
> as for the exact details I do not remember since it was a time back but ever since I always disable them.
> I guess check for yourself and see.


Isn't that the Memory Remapping feature you are mentioning instead of the Render Standy feature? Both of these are loated in the same section in the BIOS.


----------



## malmental

no, that's not what I'm talking about...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> no, that's not what I'm talking about...


Well, where did you see an info that the render standby has something to do with RAM? I searched all over google and didn't find anything about that relation.


----------



## malmental

bottom line dude if your not using it then disable it...
I can look for documentation later when I get home.
but I'm speaking from my own eyes with a few of my older units when learning about BIOS and clocking.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> bottom line dude if your not using it then disable it...
> I can look for documentation later when I get home.
> but I'm speaking from my own eyes with a few of my older units when learning about BIOS and clocking.


Yes I understand. But the thing is that it is a power saving feature which means that keeping it enabled will be more on the safe side especially when you are not using iGPU, right? Because with it enabled, we are sure that the power consumption is kept to a minimum.


----------



## malmental

power saving feature meaning turn it off when not in use....


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> power saving feature meaning turn it off when not in use....


That is render standby which means that if turned on it enables standby. It's not directly enabling/disabling iGPU. I hope you get what my point.

EDIT: From this manual: http://www.manualowl.com/m/Asus/P8Z77-V-DELUXE/Manual/272709?page=104 it says it allows to reduce the power consumption of the iGPU when idle. I don't use the iGPU which means it is in idle mode. Disabling the render standby feature will not allow it to go to standby and there would be no reduction in power consumption.


----------



## malmental

looks like you just did the research to answer the question for both of us....
I still disable it anyways..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> looks like you just did the research to answer the question for both of us....
> I still disable it anyways..


Yes. I was just confused why you keep it disabled.


----------



## TwoCables

Well, why keep it enabled if you're not using the iGPU? Disable things you're not using. Y'know?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I had to increase the offset value to a positive offset value of .020 and now my load voltage goes as high as 1.370. Is that OK?


Yep! This is a little bit higher than what I was expecting you to need for only 4.5 GHz, but it's still ok. For everyday use, try to stay below approximately 1.42V.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yep! This is a little bit higher than what I was expecting you to need for only 4.5 GHz, but it's still ok. For everyday use, try to stay below approximately 1.42V.


OK kewl. So, in the end after all my tweaking, which started by my wanting to make my idle temps lower, I have "sacrificed" having lower idle/low load temps for higher load voltages, which seems like a good sacrifice to make since I don't push my system to the high/max load nearly as often as it just sits idle or loaded lightly. Makes sense to me.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> OK kewl. So, in the end after all my tweaking, which started by my wanting to make my idle temps lower, I have "sacrificed" having lower idle/low load temps for higher load voltages, which seems like a good sacrifice to make since I don't push my system to the high/max load nearly as often as it just sits idle or loaded lightly. Makes sense to me.


Oh, I thought we were stabilizing your system. I might have become confused along the way. Although, stability is the most important thing anyway once everything else is taken care of such as making sure temps and voltages are safe.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That is render standby which means that if turned on it enables standby. It's not directly enabling/disabling iGPU. I hope you get what my point.
> 
> EDIT: From this manual: http://www.manualowl.com/m/Asus/P8Z77-V-DELUXE/Manual/272709?page=104 it says it allows to reduce the power consumption of the iGPU when idle. I don't use the iGPU which means it is in idle mode. Disabling the render standby feature will not allow it to go to standby and there would be no reduction in power consumption.


I think you are making a thinking error here








You say because you don't use the iGPU it is in idle mode; I would guess that because you don't use it the iGPU is DISABLED and not in idle mode.
So this setting has no influence anyway I would say.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh, I thought we were stabilizing your system. I might have become confused along the way. Although, stability is the most important thing anyway once everything else is taken care of such as making sure temps and voltages are safe.


It's hard to keep up with the posts. My system was very stable before all this began but someone had suggested that my idle temps were a bit high and so then I posted my settings, which you and maybe someone else provided recommendations on. If you don't follow all that, no worries.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> It's hard to keep up with the posts. My system was very stable before all this began but someone had suggested that my idle temps were a bit high and so then I posted my settings, which you and maybe someone else provided recommendations on. If you don't follow all that, no worries.


hehe I think too that I'm allowing myself to be involved in too many threads at once.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> It's hard to keep up with the posts. My system was very stable before all this began but someone had suggested that my idle temps were a bit high and so then I posted my settings, which you and maybe someone else provided recommendations on. If you don't follow all that, no worries.


Did you figure out your lowest "fixed" voltage necessary for your overclock?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> looks like you just did the research to answer the question for both of us....
> I still disable it anyways..
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. I was just confused why you keep it disabled.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, why keep it enabled if you're not using the iGPU? Disable things you're not using. Y'know?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> I had to increase the offset value to a positive offset value of .020 and now my load voltage goes as high as 1.370. Is that OK?
> 
> 
> 
> Yep! This is a little bit higher than what I was expecting you to need for only 4.5 GHz, but it's still ok. For everyday use, try to stay below approximately 1.42V.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That is render standby which means that if turned on it enables standby. It's not directly enabling/disabling iGPU. I hope you get what my point.
> 
> EDIT: From this manual: http://www.manualowl.com/m/Asus/P8Z77-V-DELUXE/Manual/272709?page=104 it says it allows to reduce the power consumption of the iGPU when idle. I don't use the iGPU which means it is in idle mode. Disabling the render standby feature will not allow it to go to standby and there would be no reduction in power consumption.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you are making a thinking error here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You say because you don't use the iGPU it is in idle mode; I would guess that because you don't use it the iGPU is DISABLED and not in idle mode.
> So this setting has no influence anyway I would say.
Click to expand...

so I am right to disable it and it ties into RAM....


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> so I am right to disable it and it ties into RAM....


Nah dont think it ties into RAM...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1004219/officia-l-asus-rog-maximus-iv-gene-z68-z68-gen3-owners-club/2710#post_14930728

Has to do with iGPU, just a power saving feature for the iGPU.
But like mentionned before in this thread, if not using iGPU you can disable it I guess (which I just did)


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> so I am right to disable it and it ties into RAM....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah dont think it ties into RAM...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1004219/officia-l-asus-rog-maximus-iv-gene-z68-z68-gen3-owners-club/2710#post_14930728
> 
> Has to do with iGPU, just a power saving feature for the iGPU.
> But like mentionned before in this thread, if not using iGPU you can disable it I guess (which I just did)
Click to expand...

when you enable your iGPU (but maybe only counts when in use) does tie into RAM...
take your GPU out and run on the iGPU and check your RAM then..

edit for disclaimer:
Yoda has been off work today and visited the Land of Jah...








so I might not be in the correct frame of mind for memory if you know what I mean..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> I think you are making a thinking error here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You say because you don't use the iGPU it is in idle mode; I would guess that because you don't use it the iGPU is DISABLED and not in idle mode.
> So this setting has no influence anyway I would say.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> when you enable your iGPU (but maybe only counts when in use) does tie into RAM...
> take your GPU out and run on the iGPU and check your RAM then..
> 
> edit for disclaimer:
> Yoda has been off work today and visited the Land of Jah...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so I might not be in the correct frame of mind for memory if you know what I mean..


Yes, that is if you are using the iGPU. The original question was when the iGPU is not in use, which means that the render standby feature, whether disabled or enabled, is not tied to RAM







The memory remapping feature is what is tied to RAM.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Did you figure out your lowest "fixed" voltage necessary for your overclock?


No, I did not. What fixed voltage should I use as a starting point given that my stable load voltage now ranges from 1.360v-1.370v? This is using a postive offset value of .025 as I recall (not at home to check).

And then once I do find a good fixed voltage, how do you use that result to set either a negative or positive offset value?

Thanks.


----------



## sinnedone

What I "usually" do Is turn off all power saving features adnstart at a common ground. If you think 1.36 i stable voltasge for you start a little lower like 1.35 if all is stable there drop a little more and see how little volts it actually takes to run at desire speed. Once that has proven stable go back and start adding whatever power saving features you want and check for stability.

The offset totally depends on what the voltage is automaticly set to. Say you find that 1.34 is stable for you at 4.5, then see what auto voltage puts you at using the same stress tests and cpu-z. If its higher then go into bios and put in a slight negative offset.

Its time consuming and will probably take a couple of weeks to figure out if your taking your time and doing it right.

Take my 2500k. At 4.2ghz its stable at 1.24v. (didnt check if could go lower was being lazy) went back and turned on power saving features and played with my offset until I achieved a load voltage of 1.24v. Took a good 10 time getting in and out of bios and the first swettign was too steep of an offset drop and it wouldnt even post lol.

In my personal opinion, Starting off using offset and power saving features just make it harder to figure out what voltage you actually need and you never know if issues with your overclock are voltage related or poer saving feature related. Not to mention vdroop and a couple of other things.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> What I "usually" do Is turn off all power saving features adnstart at a common ground. If you think 1.36 i stable voltasge for you start a little lower like 1.35 if all is stable there drop a little more and see how little volts it actually takes to run at desire speed. Once that has proven stable go back and start adding whatever power saving features you want and check for stability.
> 
> The offset totally depends on what the voltage is automaticly set to. Say you find that 1.34 is stable for you at 4.5, then see what auto voltage puts you at using the same stress tests and cpu-z. If its higher then go into bios and put in a slight negative offset.
> 
> Its time consuming and will probably take a couple of weeks to figure out if your taking your time and doing it right.
> 
> Take my 2500k. At 4.2ghz its stable at 1.24v. (didnt check if could go lower was being lazy) went back and turned on power saving features and played with my offset until I achieved a load voltage of 1.24v. Took a good 10 time getting in and out of bios and the first swettign was too steep of an offset drop and it wouldnt even post lol.
> 
> In my personal opinion, Starting off using offset and power saving features just make it harder to figure out what voltage you actually need and you never know if issues with your overclock are voltage related or poer saving feature related. Not to mention vdroop and a couple of other things.


Thanks. This makes a lot of sense, but I am not sure what settings in BIOS are "power saving" features except for C1E, C3 and C6. Any others?


----------



## sinnedone

theres is some on the main overclocking tab. Im sorry I forget what they are called right now, but in the description when highlighted it will tell you something about power saving.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> No, I did not. What fixed voltage should I use as a starting point given that my stable load voltage now ranges from 1.360v-1.370v? This is using a postive offset value of .025 as I recall (not at home to check).


It depends on how much vDroop you have, and that depends on what your Load-Line Calibration setting is. Generally, Ultra High on P8P67 and P8Z68 boards results in the least amount of vDroop and it even eliminates it entirely on some motherboards. For me, it just reduces it to an absolute minimum but there's still a little bit. Using Extreme reverses vDroop and that's called "vRise" because the voltage rises under full load.

Really though, just experiment. If you're using Ultra High, then type in a Manual Voltage of 1.38V and go from there. If you're using High LLC, then type in 1.40V and go from there (you don't have to use 1.38 and 1.40V. I'm just using them as examples). If you get a voltage higher than you are looking for, then go back in the BIOS and lower it. Experiment. Overclocking is all about trial and error. It can't be done any other way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> And then once I do find a good fixed voltage, how do you use that result to set either a negative or positive offset value?


The Offset is either adding to or subtracting from the VID. So in order to figure out what your Offset needs to be, you have to find the difference between your idle voltage (while using a Manual Mode voltage) and the VID. Your VID will be displayed by Real Temp and Core Temp. In Real Temp, just click the button on the upper-right part of the Real Temp window. However, each multiplier has its own VID, so you absolutely must make sure that your multiplier is sitting at the overclocked value (e.g. 45, and for me it is 47). If it's sitting at 16, then you will see the VID for the x16.0 multiplier. To guarantee that it's sitting at your overclocked multiplier, just start Prime95 and then stop it when you're done looking at your VID. A quick way to stop Prime95 is by pressing Esc and then Enter. Sinnedone will say to disable C1E and Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology, but I see one problem with that: you could forget to enable it later.

The reason why you need to find the difference between the *idle* voltage and the VID instead of the full-load voltage and the VID is you have vDroop (or vRise, depending on your LLC setting). This means that if you were to use the difference between the full-load voltage and the VID, then your full-load voltage with the offset will droop down from the full-load voltage you had in Manual Mode due to using the difference between the full-load voltage and the VID. This is confusing, so you have to see it for yourself to understand.

For example: let's say that your idle voltage is 1.384V and your VID for 45 is hovering between 1.3511V and 1.3561V. The difference between 1.384V and 1.3561V is +0.0279V, and the difference between 1.384V and 1.3511V is +0.0329V. The available increments in the BIOS is 0.005V, so you have to do some rounding. Therefore, you would start with an Offset of +0.035V. If that results in a full-load voltage higher than what you want, then use +0.030V. If that's still too high, then use +0.025V. *Note:* Your idle voltage does not have to be 1.384V. I'm just using it as an example. The same goes for these offsets: they're just examples.

So of course, if your idle voltage while in Manual Mode is *lower* than your VID, then you would use a negative offset value in order to subtract whatever the difference is between the idle voltage and your VID. Again, the reason for using the difference between your idle voltage and the VID as opposed to using the full-load voltage is due to vDroop. You want it to "start" at that idle voltage before it droops under full load even though you'll never see it in Offset Mode. All you'll see is the full-load voltage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> The offset totally depends on what the voltage is automaticly set to. Say you find that 1.34 is stable for you at 4.5, then see what auto voltage puts you at using the same stress tests and cpu-z. If its higher then go into bios and put in a slight negative offset.


That's not how it works. Using an Auto offset voltage for 4.5 GHz could result in a full-load voltage of 1.4V, or even 1.45V. I explained exactly how it works above.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Thanks. This makes a lot of sense, but I am not sure what settings in BIOS are "power saving" features except for C1E, C3 and C6. Any others?


I respectfully disagree with sinnedone. The following 4 power-saving features called C1E, Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology, C3, and C6 can all be enabled without any problems. There is never a need to disable them for Sandy Bridge unless you want to start adjusting the BCLK. Regarding C3 and C6, these can be left enabled with no problems as long as you're not using too high of an LLC setting. I discovered that I have to have C3 and C6 disabled with Ultra High LLC, but I have no problems with Medium LLC. I like having C3 and C6 enabled because I enjoy a ~15W reduction in my power consumption according to my Kill A Watt.

Anyway, the reason why using a Manual Voltage can be superior is it makes overclocking easier because you don't have to babysit your offset setting each time you want to change the voltage. With Manual Voltage, you just change it and you're done (for the most part). Then, when you're all done setting up your overclock and testing for stability, you can switch to an Offset and call it Finished.


----------



## sinnedone

Im sorry I should have explained myself better. I did not mean to set voltage to offset then leave it auto, but to use the auto setings for voltage. I forget the terminology at this moment, but the way voltage is usually calculated that built into the chip.

I respectfully accept your disagreance. lol

When I was reserching overclocking and looked through various guides and videos this perticular method made the most sense as it eliminated alot of variables, which some say can affect and others say do not. It comes down to preferance really.









All in all I think we can both agree that finding the least required fixed voltage would be a prerequisite to offset mode no?

EDIT 400th post...not bad.







EDIT


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Im sorry I should have explained myself better. I did not mean to set voltage to offset then leave it auto, but to use the auto setings for voltage. I forget the terminology at this moment, but the way voltage is usually calculated that built into the chip.
> 
> I respectfully accept your disagreance. lol
> 
> When I was reserching overclocking and looked through various guides and videos this perticular method made the most sense as it eliminated alot of variables, which some say can affect and others say do not. It comes down to preferance really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all I think we can both agree that finding the least required fixed voltage would be a prerequisite to offset mode no?
> 
> EDIT 400th post...not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT


But that is not how the Offset voltage is found. The Offset is either adding to or subtracting from the VID. Naturally, you have to consider vDroop or vRise depending on what you're getting, and that's why you have to find the difference between the idle voltage in Manual Mode and the VID. I explained it above, so check it out. I feel that it is the easiest and most logical way to do it. It takes out almost all of the guesswork.

Anyway, yes it is easier to do everything with a Manual (or "fixed") voltage first and then switch to an Offset when you're finished.


----------



## am dew1

Thank you both for your great information and advice.







Since my system is stable right now, I'm not sure that I want to dive that deep into this since my load voltages and temps are OK.


----------



## brfield

Do the usb ports on the mobo have current protection for over voltage, shorts, or any other various power conditions? I'm building a 3 point led clamp for free track and don't have a fuse. If something dod go wrong, can the mobo protect itself, or do the usb ports have any kind of protection?


----------



## Deo Domuique

Guys, I'd like to ask...

On my P8P67 & i5 2500 ( not the 'K' version ), I overclocked +400Mhz; it's the limit I can give... That means, my CPU is running at 3800Mhz when all 4 cores are being used, and 4100Mhz when only one core is being used. Now, I gave -0.050 offset voltage and I'd really like to hear your opinion, because doing so, the idle voltage is now 0.950 - 0.0960V...

Do you think this voltage is enough for the 1600Mhz or I better increase it a bit?

Previously I had the offset voltage even at -0.065 because I didn't know it affects the idle clocks... I thought only when the CPU is running in full speed... Even at that low voltage got no problems, seemingly at least, but I eventually gave a little more when I learnt it affects the idle clocks, likewise.

P.S. I'm not talking for the voltage at full speed at all; only for the idle clocks I care to know whether 0.0950-60 is enough or not


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Guys, I'd like to ask...
> 
> On my P8P67 & i5 2500 ( not the 'K' version ), I overclocked +400Mhz; it's the limit I can give... That means, my CPU is running at 3800Mhz when all 4 cores are being used, and 4100Mhz when only one core is being used. Now, I gave -0.050 offset voltage and I'd really like to hear your opinion, because doing so, the idle voltage is now 0.950 - 0.0960V...
> 
> Do you think this voltage is enough for the 1600Mhz or I better increase it a bit?
> 
> Previously I had the offset voltage even at -0.065 because I didn't know it affects the idle clocks... I thought only when the CPU is running in full speed... Even at that low voltage got no problems, seemingly at least, but I eventually gave a little more when I learnt it affects the idle clocks, likewise.
> 
> P.S. I'm not talking for the voltage at full speed at all; only for the idle clocks I care to know whether 0.0950-60 is enough or not


If you're not seeing any idle instabilities, then it's enough. However, I will recommend using a Medium LLC setting so that you can also enable CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report if they aren't enabled already. I was previously using Ultra High, and I had idle instabilities due to using an Offset if C3 and C6 were enabled. With Medium, I no longer have problems with C3 and C6 enabled.


----------



## Deo Domuique

NIce to know it... Yes, I have it on "Medium" already, C3 and C6 enabled and Phase Control on "Optimised".

I'm not familiar with CPU overclocking... The idle instabilities you're talking about, are they similar to GPU's side-effects or should I be more careful in order to catch some more fine details?

Thank you, anyway!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> NIce to know it... Yes, I have it on "Medium" already, C3 and C6 enabled and Phase Control on "Optimised".
> 
> I'm not familiar with CPU overclocking... The idle instabilities you're talking about, are they similar to GPU's side-effects or should I be more careful in order to catch some more fine details?
> 
> Thank you, anyway!


For me, it was just lock-ups. Some people had BSODs too. So, I guess it's lock-ups or BSODs. I see now that I wasn't all that clear, so I'm glad you asked!


----------



## TwoCables

I just accidentally discovered how to get into Windows Safe Mode! No, this isn't what you think! lol

*Note:* This is for ASUS P8P67 Series motherboards, but it won't hurt to try this with your motherboard if you have been wondering how to get into Safe Mode.

Ok, so have any of you ever tried to get into Safe Mode with a P8P67 using F8 but it seemed impossible so you gave up? Yeah, I did - UNTIL NOW!

First, in order for this to work you need to copy one specific setting that I have been using ever since my first day with this motherboard (it's not the default setting for the P8P67 Series):


Go into the Advanced Mode in the UEFI BIOS
Go to the Boot tab
Change *Full Screen Logo* to Disabled

*Warning:* If you had yours enabled on your P8P67 Series, then if you want to get back into the UEFI, you must make sure you hold down Del (or Delete) as soon as you see the POST screen come up and then keep holding it down until the UEFI begins to load.

Anyway, here's how to get into Safe Mode, and you will see why you need Full Screen Logo disabled: the *instant* you see the POST screen *disappear*, press F8! That's all there is to it! If you press Delete, then you get the Windows boot menu! Slick, huh? 

About a year ago, I accidentally got into that Windows boot menu once (and only once) which allows you to press F8 after that to get to the other menu that you can use for getting into Safe Mode. To this day, I've been wondering how I did that. Well what happened just now is I was trying to get into the UEFI but for some reason I forgot why I was rebooting and by the time the POST screen was up it was too late but I tried to press Delete anyway. I just happened to press Delete immediately after the POST screen disappeared. I expected Windows to begin loading, but instead I got that Windows boot menu! So, being the curious geek that I am, I decided to try that again! It worked! So then I tried that again but I pressed F8 instead because I figured that this was the "window of opportunity" for pressing F8 too! Well, it worked!

So yeah, ever since July 11th when I turned this motherboard on for the first time, I've been thinking that getting into Safe Mode was no longer possible even though the manual says "Just press F8". I always said, "Uh, yeah right. It doesn't work, dude!" Well I'm happy to be reporting today that all you have to do is press F8 *immediately* after the POST screen disappears and you'll be able to get in!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I just accidentally discovered how to get into Windows Safe Mode! No, this isn't what you think! lol
> 
> _*Note:* This is for ASUS P8P67 Series motherboards, but it won't hurt to try this with your motherboard if you have been wondering how to get into Safe Mode._
> 
> Ok, so have any of you ever tried to get into Safe Mode with a P8P67 using F8 but it seemed impossible so you gave up? Yeah, I did - UNTIL NOW!
> 
> First, in order for this to work you need to copy one specific setting that I have been using ever since my first day with this motherboard (it's not the default setting for the P8P67 Series):
> 
> Go into the Advanced Mode in the UEFI BIOS
> Go to the Boot tab
> Change *Full Screen Logo* to Disabled
> *Warning:* If you had yours enabled on your P8P67 Series, then if you want to get back into the UEFI, you must make sure you hold down Del (or Delete) as soon as you see the POST screen come up and then keep holding it down until the UEFI begins to load.
> 
> Anyway, here's how to get into Safe Mode, and you will see why you need Full Screen Logo disabled: the *instant* you see the POST screen *disappear*, press F8! That's all there is to it! If you press Delete, then you get the Windows boot menu! Slick, huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About a year ago, I accidentally got into that Windows boot menu once (and only once) which allows you to press F8 after that to get to the other menu that you can use for getting into Safe Mode. To this day, I've been wondering how I did that. Well what happened just now is I was trying to get into the UEFI but for some reason I forgot why I was rebooting and by the time the POST screen was up it was too late but I tried to press Delete anyway. I just happened to press Delete immediately after the POST screen disappeared. I expected Windows to begin loading, but instead I got that Windows boot menu! So, being the curious geek that I am, I decided to try that again! It worked! So then I tried that again but I pressed F8 instead because I figured that this was the "window of opportunity" for pressing F8 too! Well, it worked!
> 
> So yeah, ever since July 11th when I turned this motherboard on for the first time, I've been thinking that getting into Safe Mode was no longer possible even though the manual says _"Just press F8"_. I always said, _"Uh, yeah right. It doesn't work, dude!"_ Well I'm happy to be reporting today that all you have to do is press F8 _*immediately*_ after the POST screen disappears and you'll be able to get in!


Lol, thanks for the info but here's actually an easier way:

When you hear the POST beep of your computer start pressing F8. After that you will be presented with the Boot Menu. Highlight your default boot drive and BEFORE you press Enter start pressing F8 repeatedly again. That will get you to safe mode.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol, thanks for the info but here's actually an easier way:
> 
> When you hear the POST beep of your computer start pressing F8. After that you will be presented with the Boot Menu. Highlight your default boot drive and BEFORE you press Enter start pressing F8 repeatedly again. That will get you to safe mode.


I don't have a beep. A little "PC speaker" is needed for that.

Besides, my way seems easier to me than that because I find it very easy to just kick back, relax, and wait for the POST 'screen' to disappear so that I can press F8. This way, I only press F8 once.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't have a beep. A little "PC speaker" is needed for that.
> 
> Besides, my way seems easier to me than that because I find it very easy to just kick back, relax, and wait for the POST 'screen' to disappear so that I can press F8. This way, I only press F8 once.


Oh ok, most cases have those but no pc speaker still can do.

Yeah, to each his own I guess.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok, most cases have those but no pc speaker still can do.
> 
> Yeah, to each his own I guess.


It's a visual: I watch, wait, and then press F8. It's awesome. All this time I thought, "Well, I guess ASUS really screwed this one up. lol"


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's a visual: I watch, wait, and then press F8. It's awesome. All this time I thought, _"Well, I guess ASUS really screwed this one up. lol"_


Lol, I thought about that initially too until I found a way of making safe mode prompt pop-up.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol, I thought about that initially too until I found a way of making safe mode prompt pop-up.


Yeah, and my way is pressing F8 for Windows right in that middle period between the POST 'screen' disappearing and Windows beginning to load. I have about a 1-second window which is actually a long time when you're sitting their waiting for it. I literally sit here all relaxed and when the POST screen goes away, I just press F8 and I get the Windows prompt that includes Safe Mode.

That way I don't have to do anything else like you described.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, and my way is pressing F8 for Windows right in that middle period between the POST 'screen' disappearing and Windows beginning to load. I have about a 1-second window which is actually a long time when you're sitting their waiting for it. I literally sit here all relaxed and when the POST screen goes away, I just press F8 and I get the Windows prompt that includes Safe Mode.
> 
> That way I don't have to do anything else like you described.


----------



## davidm71

I found an easier way to get into safe mode. It's the way I've been doing it for years now. Since I was always too slow on hitting the f8 key I used bcdedit utility to create a bogus multiboot menu. When windows boots your presented with a menu and I either press enter or wait to get into windows or f8 for safe mode. Easy. Also the wait time can be set to how many seconds you like.


----------



## TwoCables

I don't want to be presented with a menu every time Windows boots.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't want to be presented with a menu every time Windows boots.


Works for me and I don't mind it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Works for me and I don't mind it.


I still don't want one.

If a day were to ever come while I still have this motherboard where I can't get into Windows, then all I would have to do is press F8 one time right when the POST 'screen' disappears. It's extremely easy, so I don't have any reason to complicate it.  I mean, I otherwise never go into Safe Mode, so I don't need a boot menu or any other kind of extra thing to make it easier to get into Safe Mode. Besides, this is, again, extremely easy.


----------



## atibbo69

I searched but couldn't find anything but, does anyone know if you can get some aftermarket cooling options for the P8Z68-V Pro/Gen 3 ?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I still don't want one.
> 
> If a day were to ever come while I still have this motherboard where I can't get into Windows, then all I would have to do is press F8 one time right when the POST 'screen' disappears. It's extremely easy, so I don't have any reason to complicate it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean, I otherwise never go into Safe Mode, so I don't need a boot menu or any other kind of extra thing to make it easier to get into Safe Mode. Besides, this is, again, extremely easy.


I've tried your method and I have to agree that it was easier! Lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> I searched but couldn't find anything but, does anyone know if you can get some aftermarket cooling options for the P8Z68-V Pro/Gen 3 ?


For what component?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I've tried your method and I have to agree that it was easier! Lol.


----------



## atibbo69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I've tried your method and I have to agree that it was easier! Lol.
> For what component?


Anything? I guess the VRM heat sinks would be an obvious one


----------



## AdvanSuper

Has anyone experienced failing SATA ports?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*
> 
> Has anyone experienced failing SATA ports?


The only ones I'm aware of are the B2 motherboards. The B3 revision is the fix.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The only ones I'm aware of are the B2 motherboards. The B3 revision is the fix.


I'm on the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1, but have been experiencing HDD dropouts recently. I need to get some sata cables and see if anything changes I guess.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*
> 
> I'm on the P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1, but have been experiencing HDD dropouts recently. I need to get some sata cables and see if anything changes I guess.


Which SATA ports are you using?


----------



## Timotei

Hi!
I just suddenly decided to give my build a crack again so I just flicked through some pages on this thread after over a year of absence=p. You guys have figured out a lot of stuff about the c-states and how they relate to the SATA-ports, the offset voltage and the VRM since the last time I was here. Cool. Gonna enable them again I guess (I think what TwoCables concluded around pages 820-847 somewhere makes sense, and my only uncertainty is that he said he doesn't use SATA III ports wich I do use). I flashed my BIOS sometime in the spring 2012. Any very good reasons to do so again?

After a few minutes I noticed that some time after I was pleased with my 24/7 clock I had changed my power-plan without realising that it then set minimum freq. to 100% meaning the speedstep hasn't been working for a very long time=p. First misstep uncovered. Now I am gonna increase the clock a bit just to wipe the dust off and see where it goes=).


----------



## Timotei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Last (and pretty much the least), I changed my memory's timings because I remember someone reporting a little increase in their stability when switching from 1T to 2T. However, I didn't notice any increase in my system's stability until after changing everything else. So, I'm considering maybe going back to 9-11-9-29-1T just for fun because of the numbers: you have 9, then you have 11, then you have 9 again, but then you have 29. 2+9 equals 11, so it's a string of special numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.7 GHz is special to me too now because 4+7 equals 11. I like the number 11. In fact, my mind is blown right now because it's 12:53 while I'm typing this and 1+2+5+3 equals 11!
> 
> I almost forgot: the VRM Frequency setting of "Manual" using 350 kHz is really only necessary for bigger overclocks like 5 GHz or more.
> 
> Anyway, I guess that's everything.


Woah. I've been an 11 kinda guy forever=p. Gotta ramp it up to 4.7 ASAP!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timotei*
> 
> Woah. I've been an 11 kinda guy forever=p. Gotta ramp it up to 4.7 ASAP!


Wow, you're not kidding. On my end, you posted your other post above at 6:41 and both of these posts are on 4-16. So of course, that's 6+4+1 and 4+1+6. 

*Edit:* Omg, and I just posted this at 2:22.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow, you're not kidding. On my end, you posted your other post above at 6:41 and both of these posts are on 4-16. So of course, that's 6+4+1 and 4+1+6.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Omg, and I just posted this at 2:22.


And I am reading this a 2:27 so I guess I'm an eleven guy too!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> And I am reading this a 2:27 so I guess I'm an eleven guy too!


This is nuts! I clicked on this thread to see your reply right at 1:28. I love it.

Oh, and it did take me about a minute to make this reply. I had other things to say, but I didn't want to look *too* weird.


----------



## Durden

Hey everyone!
Its been a very long time since I've been on these boards (coming upto 2 years now!), and have happily been using my rig until I got bored lastnight and thought "Lets dip back into messing around with OC"

So I stupidly went ahead and upgraded my bios to the latest version 3602 (from 1704) before I did my research to find out latest stable releases. The update went fine for all intents and purposes but now I'm getting a message that reads along the lines of:

'Update the same BIOS version again to complete bios update and to boot up successfully when updating BIOS using "ASUS update" in the os, close all applications before continuing press F1 to continue'

on startup and I can't seem to access my bios from POST. I'm going to downgrade my bios back to version 1704 tonight (using http://smarttechtips.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/how-to-donwngrade-asus-bios.html) and start again.

Is there any particular version you guys recommend I should look to keep to?

Many thanks in advance


----------



## TwoCables

Meh, 1704 sounds fine to me. If it's not broken, then don't fix it.


----------



## Durden

Hey TwoCables your still around on these boards! Hope you've been well

You probably wont remember me but you helped me out a lot learning how to tweak the most out of my i5 2500k!

Would you say the link I posted is the best way of downgrading my bios?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Hey TwoCables your still around on these boards! Hope you've been well
> 
> You probably wont remember me but you helped me out a lot learning how to tweak the most out of my i5 2500k!
> 
> Would you say the link I posted is the best way of downgrading my bios?


Oh, I *thought* your name looked familiar!

I know almost nothing about downgrading the BIOS. :/


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh, I *thought* your name looked familiar!
> 
> I know almost nothing about downgrading the BIOS. :/


I thought I'd come out of retirement... that and there wasn't anymore DYI around the house









Been catching up a lot on the thread and have seen most people have now switched over to offsetting their voltages now (which makes sense for the idle times!). I just remember when using offset I use to get scary high voltages when under stress that I kept mine at a steady voltage just so I was 100% sure there would be no funny business. Are there any other quick pointers for an old guy?

I'm looking forward to go through the motions again with overclocking just need to brush up on my testing methods again... that's if I haven't bricked my mother board with a downgrade haha

Is it still the norm to run stress tests for 24hours a go?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> I thought I'd come out of retirement... that and there wasn't anymore DYI around the house
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been catching up a lot on the thread and have seen most people have now switched over to offsetting their voltages now (which makes sense for the idle times!). I just remember when using offset I use to get scary high voltages when under stress that I kept mine at a steady voltage just so I was 100% sure there would be no funny business. Are there any other quick pointers for an old guy?


It sounds to me like you had your Offset voltage set to Auto. The Auto setting is only for stock, not overclocking because as you noticed, it makes the voltages go *very* high when the CPU is overclocked.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> I'm looking forward to go through the motions again with overclocking just need to brush up on my testing methods again... that's if I haven't bricked my mother board with a downgrade haha
> 
> Is it still the norm to run stress tests for 24hours a go?


Yeah, pretty much. I like to recommend about 24 hours of Prime95's Custom Blend test so that you can tell it to use about 90% of your installed memory. Use the latest version because it takes advantage of the AVX instruction set which means it now stresses the *entire* CPU (in a sense):

http://mersenneforum.org/gimps/p95v279.win64.zip


----------



## Durden

Thank you, great advice as always!

I will let you know how I get on when I get home tonight. Is it sad to feel excited


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Thank you, great advice as always!
> 
> I will let you know how I get on when I get home tonight. Is it sad to feel excited


Maybe you're asking the wrong guy, but I think it's great to get excited about this stuff! After all, I'm a geek.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Maybe you're asking the wrong guy, but I think it's great to get excited about this stuff! After all, I'm a geek.


I've just been side tracked with RL and actually using the build to catchup on all the great series I've missed! This brush with death on the BIOS upgrade has got me into my build again. Was even looking at a few SSDs today as the next step and feeling gutted about the fact Sumsung F4's were bought out by Seagate... the geek in me has been repressed too long I say


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> I've just been side tracked with RL and actually using the build to catchup on all the great series I've missed! This brush with death on the BIOS upgrade has got me into my build again. Was even looking at a few SSDs today as the next step and feeling gutted about the fact Sumsung F4's were bought out by Seagate... the geek in me has been repressed too long I say


Omg, I didn't know that about the F4s! Wow.


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Hey guys, I recently have tried to SLI and it won't work. Someone had mentioned that it may be the mobo. Has anyone heard of this happening with this mobo? Details are in the link to my thread below.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1382082/560-ti-448-core-sli-problems/0_50#post_19773630


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Omg, I didn't know that about the F4s! Wow.


Yes I know!







My build was planned around later getting an SSD (when cheaper and been out for a while) and another F4 to stripe raid array as a backup solution. Now thats gone out the window unless I try the Seagate alternative... that even now has been discontinued too!! (since they're concentrating on 2.5" drives) Either way I've not heard many good stories regarding Seagate so may shy away from them.

So for the time being i was looking at SSDs to extend my storage woes for a little while until i figure out what to do with my HDD. It has re-ignited my thirst for this again though


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Yes I know!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build was planned around later getting an SSD (when cheaper and been out for a while) and another F4 to stripe raid array as a backup solution. Now thats gone out the window unless I try the Seagate alternative... that even now has been discontinued too!! (since they're concentrating on 2.5" drives) Either way I've not heard many good stories regarding Seagate so may shy away from them.
> 
> So for the time being i was looking at SSDs to extend my storage woes for a little while until i figure out what to do with my HDD. It has re-ignited my thirst for this again though


Oh man, I know that feeling. In a way, it's kind of like becoming alive again!


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh man, I know that feeling. In a way, it's kind of like becoming alive again!


So true! My work day is done so am going to rush home to get started







will keep you posted... if you don't hear from me itd be because the downgrade went badly and i'd have cried myself to sleep!!! haha


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> So true! My work day is done so am going to rush home to get started
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will keep you posted... if you don't hear from me itd be because the downgrade went badly and i'd have cried myself to sleep!!! haha


Well if I'm not here, then I *went* to sleep.  I have no regular sleep schedule, so I just kinda go when I need to.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well if I'm not here, then I *went* to sleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no regular sleep schedule, so I just kinda go when I need to.


Well on initial inspection none of my OC profiles have saved when I updated to the newer bios so will most definitely be trying (cheeckily) bend your ear on best practices again... if you are a awake of course









Wish me luck i'm going for the downgrade!!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Well on initial inspection none of my OC profiles have saved when I updated to the newer bios so will most definitely be trying (cheeckily) bend your ear on best practices again... if you are a awake of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish me luck i'm going for the downgrade!!


Wow, that's good to know because I have saved profiles too!

Anyway, I think I'm going to last about 3-4 more hours today and then I'll pass out. 

Good luck on the BIOS downgrade!


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Anyway, I think I'm going to last about 3-4 more hours today and then I'll pass out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck on the BIOS downgrade!


Thanks the Bios is now successfully downgraded! Now I have to go through the rigmarole of setting it all up again. Double Splash screen on startup and all. I feel like I'm back at school having to learn this stuff haha
Quote:


> Wow, that's good to know because I have saved profiles too!


It surprised me too! Pitty I never took any real notes on settings I previously had when running through so many tests. Ah well it'll be fun to try out what people have been upto now that they've learnt all they can out of the motherboard and processor. I know from my previous runs that the max I could get that I was happy with (voltage wise) was around 4.6 - 4.7GHz but am really excited to try out the offset way of overclocking!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Thanks the Bios is now successfully downgraded! Now I have to go through the rigmarole of setting it all up again. Double Splash screen on startup and all. I feel like I'm back at school having to learn this stuff haha
> It surprised me too! Pitty I never took any real notes on settings I previously had when running through so many tests. Ah well it'll be fun to try out what people have been upto now that they've learnt all they can out of the motherboard and processor. I know from my previous runs that the max I could get that I was happy with (voltage wise) was around 4.6 - 4.7GHz but am really excited to try out the offset way of overclocking!


It's easier to leave the voltage set to manual until the very, very, very end. Like, when you're all done tweaking and you're ready to get your game on, that's when you can switch over to the Offset and seal it up. 

So, about the two splash screens: disable the Marvell controller in *Advanced\ > Onboard Devices Configuration*. You may also need to disable the JMB Storage Controller. This one controls the eSATA ports.

After that, you can go to the Boot tab and disable Full Screen Logo. You may also see an option called "Post Report". Set that to "1 sec". If you have trouble getting into the BIOS after this, then just practice this: as soon as you see the POST information come up, press and hold Del.

If you ever need to get into Safe Mode, then do this: press F8 (just once is all it takes) as soon as the POST information disappears. You have about 1 whole second after the POST information disappears to press F8 before Windows begins loading.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> So, about the two splash screens: disable the Marvell controller in *Advanced\ > Onboard Devices Configuration*. You may also need to disable the JMB Storage Controller. This one controls the eSATA ports.
> 
> After that, you can go tothe Boot tab and disable Full Screen Logo. You may also see an option called "Post Report". Set that to "1 sec". If you have trouble getting into the BIOS after this, then just practice this: as soon as you see the POST information come up, press and hold Del.
> 
> If you ever need to get into Safe Mode, then do this: press F8 (just once is all it takes) as soon as the POST information disappears. You have about 1 whole second after the POST information disappears to press F8 before Windows begins loading.


Great advice once again my friend







If I remember rightly the Marell controller were the ports nobody used, as the Intel ones (blue) were better through put. I cant remember what the JMP Storage controller was for though, was that for RAID setups?

Either way its got the bios boot down to slower than I even had it haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's easier to leave the voltage set to manual until the very, very, very end. Like, when you're all done tweaking and you're ready to get your game on, that's when you can switch over to the Offset and seal it up.


So am I right in assuming you go about the overclock as you normally would and then once you have the correct voltage/speed set you then switch to offset mode and it somehow transfers that into those settings? Sorry if that was a silly Q just been reading up a lot to get a feel for it once more!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Great advice once again my friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember rightly the Marell controller were the ports nobody used, as the Intel ones (blue) were better through put. I cant remember what the JMP Storage controller was for though, was that for RAID setups?
> 
> Either way its got the bios boot down to slower than I even had it haha


The JMB controller is for eSATA.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> So am I right in assuming you go about the overclock as you normally would and then once you have the correct voltage/speed set you then switch to offset mode and it somehow transfers that into those settings? Sorry if that was a silly Q just been reading up a lot to get a feel for it once more!


Nope, you have to set it yourself. So you change to the Offset Mode and then you tell it what you want. It won't figure it out based on your Manual Mode setting.

I apologize for that huge delay. I decided to take a 10-minute nap and it turned into about 50 minutes. lol


----------



## Timotei

Club11's gonna become huge!

Durden, when you start toying around with the offset voltage, remember to keep notes of what increments gave you wich voltage outputs so that you can at some point find the sweetspot for your current clock while still keeping the cpu alive while idling with as low a voltage as possible. Don't be surprised if your first crash comes while idling or when you begin doing something after idling. If this happens your offset is either too low or your LLC too high (TC probably knows the excact offset increments required to compensate for one lower step of LLC though this might vary from chip to chip and board to board).

Have fun.


----------



## TwoCables

I don't, but I did learn recently that I can avoid having problems while idling by using a lower LLC. I was using Ultra High and I had to keep C3 and C6 disabled or else I'd have problems. I lowered my LLC to Medium and enabled C3 and C6 and now I have no problems while idling. Also, my Kill A Watt shows about a ~15W reduction in my idle power consumption.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Which SATA ports are you using?


All of them minus 1 port. They have been falling out except the intel ones for my Raid 0.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timotei*
> 
> Club11's gonna become huge!
> 
> Durden, when you start toying around with the offset voltage, remember to keep notes of what increments gave you wich voltage outputs so that you can at some point find the sweetspot for your current clock while still keeping the cpu alive while idling with as low a voltage as possible. Don't be surprised if your first crash comes while idling or when you begin doing something after idling. If this happens your offset is either too low or your LLC too high (TC probably knows the excact offset increments required to compensate for one lower step of LLC though this might vary from chip to chip and board to board).
> 
> Have fun.


Thank you for the tips Timotei. You earlier pointed me in the right direction too with the forum pages (820ish onwards) I've not started my Overclock yet as I just want to remind myself what each setting meant and what they affect (i'm a stickler for wanting to know how it all fits in haha)

Did you end up going with a different bios in the end? Since I've downgraded to my old bios (1704) I'm still contemplating if its worth going up to a newer one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't, but I did learn recently that I can avoid having problems while idling by using a lower LLC. I was using Ultra High and I had to keep C3 and C6 disabled or else I'd have problems. I lowered my LLC to Medium and enabled C3 and C6 and now I have no problems while idling. Also, my Kill A Watt shows about a ~15W reduction in my idle power consumption.


Last time I went through the process I started out by taking loads of notes but by the end of it you get a feel for what your builds capable of







The only notes I have on my last clock/voltage is on my signature build on this forum so may use that as a guild line of what I was able to max before.

The thing about overclocking 2nd time around i'm finding is that most of the guides/forums date back to when it came out and its a case of finding the most recent developments for the processor. Am enjoying it though


----------



## Deo Domuique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Guys, I'd like to ask...
> 
> On my P8P67 & i5 2500 ( not the 'K' version ), I overclocked +400Mhz; it's the limit I can give... That means, my CPU is running at 3800Mhz when all 4 cores are being used, and 4100Mhz when only one core is being used. Now, I gave -0.050 offset voltage and I'd really like to hear your opinion, because doing so, the idle voltage is now 0.950 - 0.0960V...
> 
> Do you think this voltage is enough for the 1600Mhz or I better increase it a bit?
> 
> Previously I had the offset voltage even at -0.065 because I didn't know it affects the idle clocks... I thought only when the CPU is running in full speed... Even at that low voltage got no problems, seemingly at least, but I eventually gave a little more when I learnt it affects the idle clocks, likewise.
> 
> P.S. I'm not talking for the voltage at full speed at all; only for the idle clocks I care to know whether 0.0950-60 is enough or not


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> If you're not seeing any idle instabilities, then it's enough. However, I will recommend using a Medium LLC setting so that you can also enable CPU C3 Report and CPU C6 Report if they aren't enabled already. I was previously using Ultra High, and I had idle instabilities due to using an Offset if C3 and C6 were enabled. With Medium, I no longer have problems with C3 and C6 enabled.


After a normal restart... My machine did not open again... M/B & CPU burnt. I can't be sure the so much negative offset caused this, but just saying... Be careful.

Now "unnecessarily" I went on Z77 and 3570K while I could easily wait for Haswell... damnit.

At least my PSU is going strong. It proves to be as good as I was hearing about.

PCI-e 3.0 my ass. My beloved i5 2500 gone... *sniff sniff*


----------



## TwoCables

What do you mean by "burnt"? Literally?

It was not caused by the offset because the offset is a means to an end, and that end is the voltage. It is a calculation based on the multiplier. So there are no safe or unsafe offsets, only safe or unsafe resulting voltages. So it doesn't matter how high or low the offset is if the resulting core voltage is safe.


----------



## Deo Domuique

Yes, literally... Both have been broken. As I said, certainly I can't be sure what happened, what caused this. I'm not saying the negative offset was the reason...

The fact is, I was getting exact numbers by putting -0.050. I mean, my VID at full speed was 1.3, and on idle 1.000+ while my pc was normally working at full speed with 1.200V ( 3.4Ghz ) and idle 1.000+. After the OC, it's working close to VID specs, 1.300 full and same idle. That's why I thought the 1.3V was too much for just 3800Mhz. Certainly the full speed voltage couldn't be the problem. But my idle dropped at 0.0950 and might caused malfunction.

I guess I was getting so 'exact' numbers because the OC was extremely low in the first place.

Anyhow, now I got the "K" version and I won't have this kind of problem again.

Incidentally, can I use both GPUs, integrated and discrete simulateneously? I don't mean both working together like LucidMVP and such crap, I'd just like to know if the changing between these 2 GPUs can be done "live" within Windows ( not in BIOS ), for instance...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Yes, literally... Both broken. As I said, certainly I can't be sure what happened, what caused this. I'm not saying the negative offset was the reason...
> 
> The fact is, I was getting exact numbers by putting -0.050. I mean, my VID at full speed was 1.3, and on idle 1.000+ while my pc was normally working at full speed with 1.200V ( 3.4Ghz ) and idle 1.000+. After the OC, it's working close to VID specs, 1.300 full and same idle. That's why I thought the 1.3V was too much for just 3800Mhz. Certainly the full speed voltage couldn't be the problem. But my idle dropped at 0.0950 and might caused malfunction.
> 
> I guess I was getting so 'exact' numbers because the OC was extremely low in the first place.
> 
> Anyhow, now I got the "K" version and I won't have this kind of problem again.
> 
> Incidentally, can I use both GPUs, integrated and discrete simulateneously? I don't mean both working together like LucidMVP and such crap, I'd just like to know if the changing between these 2 GPUs can be done "live" within Windows ( not in BIOS ), for instance...


Wait, you're going by the VID. What software were you using to look at the "VID"?


----------



## Deo Domuique

Uhm... Basically I wasn't looking closely to VIDs, I just mention the numbers which I got them from HWinfo.

In any case, now it happened and perhaps it was just a bad moment or something.

What hurts is that I don't see a practical reason to get Ivy bridge while you have Sandy bridge. Less power consumption? In 562 years I might cover the diffrence and start receiving the benefits


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Uhm... Basically I wasn't looking closely to VIDs, I just mention the numbers which I got them from HWinfo.
> 
> In any case, now it happened and perhaps it was just a bad moment or something.
> 
> What hurts is that I don't see a practical reason to get Ivy bridge while you have Sandy bridge. Less power consumption? In 562 years I might cover the diffrence


Those readings are not the core voltage. The VID is completely separate from the actual core voltage that's supplying power to the CPU. The core voltage in HWiNFO is the "Vcore" which is further down the page when looking at the sensors. For me, it's at the top of all the listed PSU voltages (which is a dumb place for it).

From now on, I recommend using CPU-Z for the core voltage.

I don't see a practical reason either, but it's faster clock-for-clock.


----------



## Deo Domuique

Yeah, I know what's the normal, current voltage... According to VCore or CPU-Z received the 0.0950 I was talking about. Both report almost the same readings.

Faster clock-for-clock doesn't mean anything to me... Will I be able to see a difference? A slight one, at least?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Yeah, I know what's the normal, current voltage... According to VCore or CPU-Z received the 0.0950 I was talking about. Both report almost the same readings.


But you see, they're not the same, One is the core voltage, and the other is the VID. The VID has nothing to do with the voltage that is being supplied to the CPU. It's basically an identifier telling you what voltage should be needed for that multiplier (including x16.0) in order to achieve stability. Every multiplier has its own VID. The offset is a calculation based on the VID, and so that's why the voltage can adjust so dynamically when using an Offset. It is constantly depending on what the multiplier's VID is - or we can say that it's depending on what the multiplier is.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deo Domuique*
> 
> Faster clock-for-clock doesn't mean anything to me... Will I be able to see a difference? A slight one, at least?


I personally don't know.


----------



## jestedsniper

Hey guys and gals, I need some quick info. Does anyone know the exact model of the temp sensor on this MoBo? i have searched and searched and can't find anything! Any ideas?


----------



## sinnedone

What exactly are you trying to do?

I asked not to long ago about where the motherboard temp sensor was located but no one knew. I was hoping it was vrm temps but no one was sure.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jestedsniper*
> 
> Hey guys and gals, I need some quick info. Does anyone know the exact model of the temp sensor on this MoBo? i have searched and searched and can't find anything! Any ideas?


Try Open Hardware Monitor for example. It should be able to detect the exact model of super I/O the motherboard used.


----------



## Timotei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jestedsniper*
> 
> Hey guys and gals, I need some quick info. Does anyone know the exact model of the temp sensor on this MoBo? i have searched and searched and can't find anything! Any ideas?


No idea at all, sry. Either file a support request with ASUS or try to find the partmanufacturer companies. Probably a long shot I guess.


----------



## Montagar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jestedsniper*
> 
> Hey guys and gals, I need some quick info. Does anyone know the exact model of the temp sensor on this MoBo? i have searched and searched and can't find anything! Any ideas?


For the P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3

SpeedFan lists it as Nuvoton NCT6776F


----------



## 8800Gamer

I believe my asus p8p67 deluxe b3 1606 bios is the root cause of my crashing. I checked psu voltages, all fine, gpu in game is fine, cpu stress test is fine, memory diagnostic test is fine, temps and voltages are fine. HDD temps are fine. The only other thing that leads me to believe is the mobo and I think it's some type of setting.

What happens is my pc sometimes freezes randomly only when idling, not when I'm browsing the web or when I'm gaming, when I go away for a few secs or a minute it sometimes freezes once a month or once every two months. Now I believe I had my voltage set to offset, with + and auto, so I changed it to manual and auto, and I will see if that is better. Stock CPU, but 1600mhz memory 8-8-8-24-1t.

any suggestions on this problem?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8800Gamer*
> 
> I believe my asus p8p67 deluxe b3 1606 bios is the root cause of my crashing. I checked psu voltages, all fine, gpu in game is fine, cpu stress test is fine, memory diagnostic test is fine, temps and voltages are fine. HDD temps are fine. The only other thing that leads me to believe is the mobo and I think it's some type of setting.
> 
> What happens is my pc sometimes freezes randomly only when idling, not when I'm browsing the web or when I'm gaming, when I go away for a few secs or a minute it sometimes freezes once a month or once every two months. Now I believe I had my voltage set to offset, with + and auto, so I changed it to manual and auto, and I will see if that is better. Stock CPU, but 1600mhz memory 8-8-8-24-1t.
> 
> any suggestions on this problem?


Auto? I hope it's not overclocked.

Anyway, this sounds to me like what has happened to many who are using an offset voltage. Which LLC setting are you using? Also, do you have C3 and C6 enabeld or disabled? Or are they set to Auto?


----------



## 8800Gamer




----------



## TwoCables

Oh, so LLC is set to Auto and C3 and C6 are set to Enabled. I think that if you went back to Offset and changed C3 and C6 to Auto, then everything would be fine.


----------



## 8800Gamer

so I should leave LLC at auto? go back to offset, but with what, just auto for offset?

c3 and c6 to auto also?

I'm just trying to get a stable stock first, no overclocking even though I OC'd before.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8800Gamer*
> 
> so I should leave LLC at auto? go back to offset, but with what, just auto for offset?
> 
> c3 and c6 to auto also?
> 
> I'm just trying to get a stable stock first, no overclocking even though I OC'd before.


Yes to everything. Except, don't use Auto for the offset when you begin overclocking.


----------



## 8800Gamer

LLC - Auto
CPU Voltage - Offset
Offset - Auto
C1E - Auto
C3 - Auto
C6 - Auto

I just set that in BIOS for stock. Should this stop random freezes at idle now?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8800Gamer*
> 
> LLC - Auto
> CPU Voltage - Offset
> Offset - Auto
> C1E - Auto
> C3 - Auto
> C6 - Auto
> 
> I just set that in BIOS for stock. Should this stop random freezes at idle now?


It should because C3 and C6 are set to Auto. These are usually the culprit for idle instabilities when using an offset.


----------



## 8800Gamer

But now it's not down clocking


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8800Gamer*
> 
> But now it's not down clocking


Oh I forgot: in Windows, open the Start Menu and type "*edit po*" for "edit power options and then press Enter. Press enter again to open "Change advanced power settings". Scroll down to "processor power management". Expand "Minimum processor state" and change it to 0% and clock OK.


----------



## 8800Gamer

I still did that, it's still not down clocking, it's running at a constant 3.7ghz.

I'm sure there's a way to have c1e working without crashing my PC


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8800Gamer*
> 
> I still did that, it's still not down clocking, it's running at a constant 3.7ghz.
> 
> I'm sure there's a way to have c1e working without crashing my PC


I guess you can change C1E to Enabled because it's on Auto right now. I'm curious about this too now.


----------



## 8800Gamer

LLC - Auto
CPU Voltage - Offset
Offset - Auto
C1E - CHANGED TO ENABLED BECAUSE AUTO DOES NOT DOWNCLOCK/THROTTLEDOWN/3.7ghz constantly
C3 - Auto
C6 - Auto


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8800Gamer*
> 
> LLC - Auto
> CPU Voltage - Offset
> Offset - Auto
> C1E - CHANGED TO ENABLED BECAUSE AUTO DOES NOT DOWNCLOCK/THROTTLEDOWN/3.7ghz constantly
> C3 - Auto
> C6 - Auto


Oh really?! Well, ASUS has some 'splainin' to do! Lucy! hehe

Weird. I would have though that having everything on Auto would do the trick.


----------



## 8800Gamer

I would think so too, but C1E on auto feels the same as if it was disabled. Enabled seems to be the only way to make my PC downclock. I believe that's what's been causing all these random freezes. I really like this mobo and CPU and I want to get to the bottom of this.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8800Gamer*
> 
> I would think so too, but C1E on auto feels the same as if it was disabled. Enabled seems to be the only way to make my PC downclock. I believe that's what's been causing all these random freezes. I really like this mobo and CPU and I want to get to the bottom of this.


I think you're right because if it's at 3.7 GHz but the voltage is less than 1.0V, then I can only imagine that the chances of having instabilities while idling increase quite a bit!


----------



## 8800Gamer

I'll let you know if these settings are idle stable. (I usually will get one freeze every so often if it's not)


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh really?! Well, ASUS has some 'splainin' to do! Lucy! hehe
> 
> Weird. I would have though that having everything on Auto would do the trick.


I've read previously on a guide that they say enable features you want to use.. but i'm with you you'd think the default state (auto) would be to enable the feature... again since its one of the main features on this processor!


----------



## kizwan

What "Auto" do, depends on the BIOS of course (up to system/BIOS designer). For example, on my board, when overclock, when set to Auto especially C states settings, they actually disabled. Didn't check what happen if running at stock clock though. "Enabled" any feature we want to use is a good advice.


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Hey guys, I'm going to try and start an RMA soon on my V PRO GEN3 because I can't SLI. Do you think I should sell the mobo when I get it back and upgrade to a Z77, or just keep it and hope it works?


----------



## 8800Gamer

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?269618-***Official***-Asus-Sabertooth-P67-Club-Discussion-Info!**

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1597847

What I read is that to try "Disabling C3/C6, but when I put auto on c1e, it disables it, I read asus made auto basically would disable it the whole time as a safety feature." I read another person changed the memory from "Auto" to "X.M.P."

Well my c1e is enabled, c3/c6 is both set to auto, which I know is probably disabled, since c1e auto was the same thing as disabled. It seems this was a very common problem. It hasn't crashed on me since saturday when I changed the bios settings

*EDIT*

I have been stable since last saturday, over a week, I think changing the settings fixed it so at least stock is stable now with 1600mhz memory.


----------



## Durden

So I've finally got the time to start my overclocking (the missus is away for two weeks!







)

From everything I've researched I've got these action plans:

CPU Current Capability - 140%
Phase and Duty Control - Extreme
EPU Power saving - Disabled
VRM Frequency - Manual - 350
C1E and Speedsteep - enabled
C3 and C6 on Auto

- Start everything on auto and multi set to 45 @ 1.25V working until stable
- Find out what LLC I need at stable VCore
- Then lower PLL Voltage to 1.40 and work my way up to stability again.
- Lower LLC and VCore a few more notches. And test stability
- Convert to Offset once stable and test again

Do you guys think this is a good way of going about it? Also I'm looking to grab an ssd soon and read that the C3 & C6 states have an impact on sata 3 performance. With that in mind should I try my overclock with these states enabled I'm advance to get them working/stable!

Also I've read alot about the 1344 (and 17xx can't remember exact!) custom blends as a quick test for stability. How long would I need to run these to just know quickly?! I use to run blend for 12hours previously


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> So I've finally got the time to start my overclocking (the missus is away for two weeks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> From everything I've researched I've got these action plans:
> 
> CPU Current Capability - 140%
> Phase and Duty Control - Extreme
> EPU Power saving - Disabled
> VRM Frequency - Manual - 350
> C1E and Speedsteep - enabled
> C3 and C6 on Auto
> 
> - Start everything on auto and multi set to 45 @ 1.25V working until stable
> - Find out what LLC I need at stable VCore
> - Then lower PLL Voltage to 1.40 and work my way up to stability again.
> - Lower LLC and VCore a few more notches. And test stability
> - Convert to Offset once stable and test again
> 
> Do you guys think this is a good way of going about it? Also I'm looking to grab an ssd soon and read that the C3 & C6 states have an impact on sata 3 performance. With that in mind should I try my overclock with these states enabled I'm advance to get them working/stable!
> 
> Also I've read alot about the 1344 (and 17xx can't remember exact!) custom blends as a quick test for stability. How long would I need to run these to just know quickly?! I use to run blend for 12hours previously


For only 4.5 GHz, you can leave Phase and Duty Control on Optimized and T. Probe. You can also leave VRM Frequency set to Auto and you can have VRM Spread Spectrum Enabled.

I heard the same thing about C3/C6 affecting SATA 3 performance, but I don't know if it's noticeable. Try changing between Enabled and Disabled. The Auto setting usually results in disabling them anyway.

The 1344 and 1792 K FFT tests are really only necessary if you know that your system is failing these particular FFT sizes. Fortunately, these are 2 of the most common FFT sizes to fail. I think there are a couple of others, but I'm not remembering which ones they are. Really, I recommend doing Custom Blend for 12-24 hours with the *only* settings change being that tell it to use about 90% of your memory. Make sure you're using at *least* Prime95 v27.7 or higher because v27.7 introduces AVX support! Although, AVX support is only going to function if you have Windows 7 *SP1*.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> For only 4.5 GHz, you can leave Phase and Duty Control on Optimized and T. Probe. You can also leave VRM Frequency set to Auto and you can have VRM Spread Spectrum Enabled.
> 
> I heard the same thing about C3/C6 affecting SATA 3 performance, but I don't know if it's noticeable. Try changing between Enabled and Disabled. The Auto setting usually results in disabling them anyway.
> 
> The 1344 and 1792 K FFT tests are really only necessary if you know that your system is failing these particular FFT sizes. Fortunately, these are 2 of the most common FFT sizes to fail. I think there are a couple of others, but I'm not remembering which ones they are. Really, I recommend doing Custom Blend for 12-24 hours with the *only* settings change being that tell it to use about 90% of your memory. Make sure you're using at *least* Prime95 v27.7 or higher because v27.7 introduces AVX support! Although, AVX support is only going to function if you have Windows 7 *SP1*.


Thank you once again TwoCables







I was able to get 4.5 working at 1.360V in the end. The rest I left to Auto apart from VRAM (1.5V) I left prime blend running this morning so fingers crossed my place is not burnt down and its running/passed.

Even though I have the VRM frequency and Phase/Duty control set to extreme right now I was going to try for a higher clock, would it still be worth lowering these if I were to try and go for 4.6?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Thank you once again TwoCables


You're welcome!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> I was able to get 4.5 working at 1.360V in the end. The rest I left to Auto apart from VRAM (1.5V) I left prime blend running this morning so fingers crossed my place is not burnt down and its running/passed.


lol I know the feeling all too well. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Even though I have the VRM frequency and Phase/Duty control set to extreme right now I was going to try for a higher clock, would it still be worth lowering these if I were to try and go for 4.6?


These won't need to be set to Extreme until you start pushing for 4.9 to 5.0 GHz and beyond.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> These won't need to be set to Extreme until you start pushing for 4.9 to 5.0 GHz and beyond.


Well I came back to a BSOD 101! No idea when it went though







reset the settings you've suggested and even lowered the LLC to high for now. Going to try 1.365 and see where it gets me!

Edit: instantly 101 BSOD'd going to up the VCore to 1.370.. If no luck once more should I start thinking about upping VCCIO or start using extreme settings to get stability?!

Edit once more... - should I maybe look to upstage my bios (what got me into trouble in the first place haha!) to a newer one too?!


----------



## sinnedone

downclock ram to 1333mhz to make sure that's not an issue or maybe try playing with pll?


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> downclock ram to 1333mhz to make sure that's not an issue or maybe try playing with pll?


Am currently on 1.375 and it seems to be ok for now.

What I did notice though is when placing my LLC to high and VCore to 1.370V under CPUZ under load it would only top 1.336V my VID under Real Temp was correctly showing 1.3711 so wonder if that's what caused my BSODs! Will keep you posted


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Well I came back to a BSOD 101! No idea when it went though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> reset the settings you've suggested and even lowered the LLC to high for now. Going to try 1.365 and see where it gets me!
> 
> Edit: instantly 101 BSOD'd going to up the VCore to 1.370.. If no luck once more should I start thinking about upping VCCIO or start using extreme settings to get stability?!
> 
> Edit once more... - should I maybe look to upstage my bios (what got me into trouble in the first place haha!) to a newer one too?!


What is the core voltage in CPU-Z when you're running Prime95?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Am currently on 1.375 and it seems to be ok for now.
> 
> What I did notice though is when placing my LLC to high and VCore to 1.370V under CPUZ under load it would only top 1.336V my VID under Real Temp was correctly showing 1.3711 so wonder if that's what caused my BSODs! Will keep you posted


The VID is not the actual voltage powering the CPU. It's just an informational number similar to the SPD data for memory.

1.336V is the actual core voltage, and 1.336V for 4.5 GHz is a bit on the low side. Increase it some more.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The VID is not the actual voltage powering the CPU. It's just an informational number similar to the SPD data for memory.
> 
> 1.336V is the actual core voltage, and 1.336V for 4.5 GHz is a bit on the low side. Increase it some more.


Sorry I've been responding back on my phone as my pc has been locked up







I meant to say the VID is showing that its set correctly to what I have in bios but under load (prime95) it's only hitting 1.360. So even with LLC set to ultra high there's no adverse affect to me putting the VCore higher because its lower under load right?

I think my last attempt is dying now too... It's about an hour in and everything but windows clock and prime95 are updating while CPUZ and RealTemp are locked. Stupid questing incoming but I'm guessing that not right?!


----------



## sinnedone

Sorry man I cant be of no insight on that. I am also working on my overclock at the moment as well. going for a simple 4.5ghz on my 2500k.

Quick question for anyone maybe more in the know then I am.

If I set power options in windows to "performance" and set min cpu speed to 5% the OS (windows 7) will bounce the blck around instead of the multiplyer. Now "balanced" power mode with the same exact settings as "performance" mode will simply adjust the multiplyer and leave the blck at 100. I have intel speed step enabled as well as c1e, c3 and c6 are disabled at the moment.

Is this an OS thing or changing settings in Bios will change the performace mode changing the blck? Is changing the blck by the os a bad thing?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Sorry I've been responding back on my phone as my pc has been locked up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I meant to say the VID is showing that its set correctly to what I have in bios but under load (prime95) it's only hitting 1.360. So even with LLC set to ultra high there's no adverse affect to me putting the VCore higher because its lower under load right?
> 
> I think my last attempt is dying now too... It's about an hour in and everything but windows clock and prime95 are updating while CPUZ and RealTemp are locked. Stupid questing incoming but I'm guessing that not right?!


But again, the VID is *not* the actual core voltage that's powering the CPU. It also has nothing to do with the voltage setting in the BIOS. The only place you need to look for the *actual* core voltage is in CPU-Z. You can also use HWMonitor, HWiNFO, etc. However, if you ever decide to use HWiNFO, then remember that the actual core voltage is listed *with the PSU voltages.*

To gain a better understanding of what the VID is, study this article:

http://www.overclock.net/t/665362/vid-voltage-identification-explained

The only possible adverse effect of using a higher LLC setting is the Voltage Regulator Module (VRM) gets hotter than it otherwise would. Sometimes this results in greater difficulty in achieving stability. For me, it's different: I switched from Ultra High to Medium and then I discovered that I could enable C3 and C6 while using an Offset voltage without having any lock-ups or BSODs while my computer is idling. If I have C3 and C6 enabled while using Ultra High, then I have idle instabilities like that and so therefore I have to disable them. The bad thing about disabling C3 and C6 is that "can considerably" affect SATA performance, especially SATA III. Source: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110 However, it only refers to "CStates".


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Sorry man I cant be of no insight on that. I am also working on my overclock at the moment as well. going for a simple 4.5ghz on my 2500k.
> 
> Quick question for anyone maybe more in the know then I am.
> 
> If I set power options in windows to "performance" and set min cpu speed to 5% the OS (windows 7) will bounce the blck around instead of the multiplyer. Now "balanced" power mode with the same exact settings as "performance" mode will simply adjust the multiplyer and leave the blck at 100. I have intel speed step enabled as well as c1e, c3 and c6 are disabled at the moment.
> 
> Is this an OS thing or changing settings in Bios will change the performace mode changing the blck? Is changing the blck by the os a bad thing?


As far as I've read you shouldn't change BLCK on Sandy Bridge processors. It's all multiplier based. There are some posts about changing BLCK to maybe get a higher clock but the max I've seen people even go/get is only 108.

How are you getting on with your clock?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> But again, the VID is *not* the actual core voltage that's powering the CPU. It also has nothing to do with the voltage setting in the BIOS. The only place you need to look for the *actual* core voltage is in CPU-Z. You can also use HWMonitor, HWiNFO, etc. However, if you ever decide to use HWiNFO, then remember that the actual core voltage is listed *with the PSU voltages.*
> 
> To gain a better understanding of what the VID is, study this article:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/665362/vid-voltage-identification-explained
> 
> The only possible adverse effect of using a higher LLC setting is the Voltage Regulator Module (VRM) gets hotter than it otherwise would. Sometimes this results in greater difficulty in achieving stability. For me, it's different: I switched from Ultra High to Medium and then I discovered that I could enable C3 and C6 while using an Offset voltage without having any lock-ups or BSODs while my computer is idling. If I have C3 and C6 enabled while using Ultra High, then I have idle instabilities like that and so therefore I have to disable them. The bad thing about disabling C3 and C6 is that "can considerably" affect SATA performance, especially SATA III. Source: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110 However, it only refers to "CStates".


Thanks for the link it'll guve me something to read up on while I'm staring at this screen haha

Upped the VCore to 1.375 and seems to be doing better. Will see! You'll laugh however when you hear that I've (and this is even before these recent changes... So since 2 years ago!) noticed that my CPU cooler fans were set to silent







I've always wondered why my load temps for such a small clock on this rig was nearing 70C! Since changed to Turbo and currently sitting around 63C


----------



## Durden

Sorry for the multi post my phone had a bit of a moment :s


----------



## Durden

Multi post by phone


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> As far as I've read you shouldn't change BLCK on Sandy Bridge processors. It's all multiplier based. There are some posts about changing BLCK to maybe get a higher clock but the max I've seen people even go/get is only 108.
> 
> How are you getting on with your clock?
> Thanks for the link it'll guve me something to read up on while I'm staring at this screen haha
> 
> Upped the VCore to 1.375 and seems to be doing better. Will see! You'll laugh however when you hear that I've (and this is even before these recent changes... So since 2 years ago!) noticed that my CPU cooler fans were set to silent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always wondered why my load temps for such a small clock on this rig was nearing 70C! Since changed to Turbo and currently sitting around 63C


What is the core voltage in CPU-Z?

So I mean, when you post what your new voltage is, report what it says in CPU-Z because that is the actual voltage that is powering the CPU.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What is the core voltage in CPU-Z?
> 
> So I mean, when you post what your new voltage is, report what it says in CPU-Z because that is the actual voltage that is powering the CPU.


Jumping from 1.360V and 1.376 at the moment.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> How are you getting on with your clock?


Well so far I believe Ive found my stable voltage for 4.5. It looks like 1.32v is what I need. Ive run prime 95 twice now fo 12:30 and 13 hours.

This was using manual mode with llc set to extreme and c3 c6 disabled. Everything pretty much on auto excep vrm duty I believe which was extreme and not tprobe phase is set to optimized .pll overvoltage is disabled . spread spectrum as well disabled.

Im starting to play around with offset again so it will probably be a few days of playing with llc and offset until I find the lowest stable settings again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The only possible adverse effect of using a higher LLC setting is the Voltage Regulator Module (VRM) gets hotter than it otherwise would.


Good to know, Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The bad thing about disabling C3 and C6 is that "can considerably" affect SATA performance, especially SATA III. Source: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110 However, it only refers to "CStates".


Hmmm Would leaving them on auto circumvent this? Any programs that You can use to test if performance is being affected?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Jumping from 1.360V and 1.376 at the moment.


Wow. This 2500K really *does* need a bit of vcore for 4.5 GHz! Did you say that your VID is 1.3711V with your multiplier at 45?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Well so far I believe Ive found my stable voltage for 4.5. It looks like 1.32v is what I need. Ive run prime 95 twice now fo 12:30 and 13 hours.
> 
> This was using manual mode with llc set to extreme and c3 c6 disabled. Everything pretty much on auto excep vrm duty I believe which was extreme and not tprobe phase is set to optimized .pll overvoltage is disabled . spread spectrum as well disabled.
> 
> Im starting to play around with offset again so it will probably be a few days of playing with llc and offset until I find the lowest stable settings again.
> Good to know, Thanks
> Hmmm Would leaving them on auto circumvent this? Any programs that You can use to test if performance is being affected?


According to others in this thread, Auto has been discovered to be equal to Disabled.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Well so far I believe Ive found my stable voltage for 4.5. It looks like 1.32v is what I need. Ive run prime 95 twice now fo 12:30 and 13 hours.
> 
> This was using manual mode with llc set to extreme and c3 c6 disabled. Everything pretty much on auto excep vrm duty I believe which was extreme and not tprobe phase is set to optimized .pll overvoltage is disabled . spread spectrum as well disabled.
> 
> Im starting to play around with offset again so it will probably be a few days of playing with llc and offset until I find the lowest stable settings again.


You've probably read this already but check the links from this out:
http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet

They talk about setting PLL voltage to around 1.4V and work your way up until you are stable again. If it works out lower than default they've seen that they can lower VCore as a result. It's what I've got planned next once I've got a stable build!

Also I think Auto CStates default to disabled not to sure though!

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. This 2500K really *does* need a bit of vcore for 4.5 GHz! Did you say that your VID is 1.3711V with your multiplier at 45?


Yeh VID is 1.3711 and multi at 45. It's set to 1.375 in bios too. I'm not sure if I have anything else set apart from VRAM at 1.5V LLC at Ultra High, PLL over voltage disabled CPU PLL Spread Auto and CStates enabled.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> You've probably read this already but check the links from this out:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet
> 
> They talk about setting PLL voltage to around 1.4V and work your way up until you are stable again. If it works out lower than default they've seen that they can lower VCore as a result. It's what I've got planned next once I've got a stable build!
> 
> Also I think Auto CStates default to disabled not to sure though!


There has been some talk in this thread lately regarding a discovery that using Auto is actually the same as using Disabled for some reason.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There has been some talk in this thread lately regarding a discovery that using Auto is actually the same as using Disabled for some reason.


Has there been any correlation to actual bios version?!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durden*
> 
> Has there been any correlation to actual bios version?!


If there is, then I don't remember anyone talking about it.

Besides, you will need C3 and C6 disabled when you switch to an Offset unless you use a Medium LLC. You might even be able to get away with High, but I haven't tried it yet. I just know that Ultra High requires me to disable C3 and C6 or else I get lock-ups while idling.


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> If there is, then I don't remember anyone talking about it.
> 
> Besides, you will need C3 and C6 disabled when you switch to an Offset unless you use a Medium LLC. You might even be able to get away with High, but I haven't tried it yet. I just know that Ultra High requires me to disable C3 and C6 or else I get lock-ups while idling.


That's very true! Lets start with a stable clock first then I can hopefully build from there!! an hour and half in so far so good... Fingers crossed









Edit: finally stable!

http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13234

Now to start playing with PLL and VCCIO!! Would you say those temps are ok?


----------



## turrican9

I'm back!









So much time has passed.... It's been a long time since I've been here, a very long time.... I will be contacting munaim1 to get moderation of this club back to my name again. I'm here for you guys.... I will do my best to show the spirit that startet this club, and even take it a step further...


----------



## Durden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> I'm back!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So much time has passed.... It's been a long time since I've been here, a very long time.... I will be contacting munaim1 to get moderation of this club back to my name again. I'm here for you guys.... I will do my best to show the spirit that startet this club, and even take it a step further...


Blast from the past!! (Well for me since I've only got back into these forums recently after a 2 year break)

Glad you're back and looking forward to seeing how this thread moves on


----------



## dominatorx

HEY Guyz,
I own a P8Z68-V PRO motherboard with 3603 bios
CPU - i7 2700k
GPU - GTX 580

My computer goes on standby perfectly, after I power it on and run it for sometime and then power it off, the USB devices still stay powered on.
If i do not put my computer on standby and then shut it down, it will power off all the USB devices.

Is anyone experiencing this problem?
Help would be greatly appreciated
Thank You


----------



## TFL Replica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> I'm back!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So much time has passed.... It's been a long time since I've been here, a very long time.... I will be contacting munaim1 to get moderation of this club back to my name again. I'm here for you guys.... I will do my best to show the spirit that startet this club, and even take it a step further...


Welcome back!


----------



## sinnedone

Have you looked for settings in the bios? I think there is something there about usb powered even when pc is off.


----------



## dominatorx

Hey sinnedone

I have checked the bios for this setting and it does not exist.

As I stated earlier:
"My computer goes on standby perfectly, after I power it on and run it for sometime and then power it off, the USB devices still stay powered on.

>>>If i do not put my computer on standby and then shut it down, it will power off all the USB devices."

This is what I dont understand


----------



## DeviloftheHell

hi, we have an p8p67 pro, after a restart the mb wont start just for a split second. psu seems fine starts up and all voltages are fine without anything plugged in, if the board plugged in the psu starts 12v rail goes up to 2.5volts then the psu shuts down. on the 8pin cpu connector i measure 5 ohms between ground and +12v. its shorted or somewhere a chip fried along the way?


----------



## malmental

I've been gone from this thread for a minute but I have to say that I have taught 'TwoCables' well..
I'm so proud of you young Jedi..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I've been gone from this thread for a minute but I have to say that I have taught 'TwoCables' well..
> I'm so proud of you young Jedi..


Hehehe thank you. It feels good, man.


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Anybody have any ideas on how to get rid of these errors on boot? Second one pops up after I click OK on the first.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody have any ideas on how to get rid of these errors on boot? Second one pops up after I click OK on the first.


When did this start happening?


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> When did this start happening?


When I tried to install either the chipset drivers or the management interface drivers after a fresh Windows install. Tried uninstalling and reinstalling both with no luck.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> When I tried to install either the chipset drivers or the management interface drivers after a fresh Windows install. Tried uninstalling and reinstalling both with no luck.


Hmm. I'm not sure if this will work, but let's try it anyway:


Open msconfig
Switch to the Startup tab
Look for anything that could be the culprit
When you find a possible culprit, disable it (this temporarily deletes its subkey out of the Registry)
Click OK and then reboot
If it turns out that this *was* the culprit, then go back into msconfig and re-enable it.
Hover over the location to find out exactly where it's located in the Registry
Go directly to that key in the Registry (leave msconfig open in the background)
In the right-hand pane of that key, look what might be the offending subkey
When you think you've found it, Alt+Tab back to msconfig
Disable the the culprit again as before and click Apply
Alt+Tab back to Regedit and press F5 to refresh it
You'll see one of the subkeys in the right-hand pane disappear
Now, re-enable it in msconfig and click Apply
Press F5 again in Regedit
Delete the subkey that reappears (or repeat the above steps to make sure you're deleting the right one)
Close Regedit and msconfig
Reboot

If this works, then I would recommend getting the chipset driver and management interface driver directly from Intel's site.


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Hmm. I'm not sure if this will work, but let's try it anyway:
> 
> Open msconfig
> Switch to the Startup tab
> Look for anything that could be the culprit
> When you find a possible culprit, disable it (this temporarily deletes its subkey out of the Registry)
> Click OK and then reboot
> If it turns out that this *was* the culprit, then go back into msconfig and re-enable it.
> Hover over the location to find out exactly where it's located in the Registry
> Go directly to that key in the Registry (leave msconfig open in the background)
> In the right-hand pane of that key, look what might be the offending subkey
> When you think you've found it, Alt+Tab back to msconfig
> Disable the the culprit again as before and click Apply
> Alt+Tab back to Regedit and press F5 to refresh it
> You'll see one of the subkeys in the right-hand pane disappear
> Now, re-enable it in msconfig and click Apply
> Press F5 again in Regedit
> Delete the subkey that reappears (or repeat the above steps to make sure you're deleting the right one)
> Close Regedit and msconfig
> Reboot
> If this works, then I would recommend getting the chipset driver and management interface driver directly from Intel's site.


Thanks for the reply. I looked around and didn't see anything that jumped out at me. I'll mess around with it more tomorrow.

I got those drivers from my mobo disk, I'll see if the site has some updated ones.

Thank you.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglesfan251*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I looked around and didn't see anything that jumped out at me. I'll mess around with it more tomorrow.
> 
> I got those drivers from my mobo disk, I'll see if the site has some updated ones.
> 
> Thank you.


I had a feeling it was from the CD. So yeah, I do recommend getting these drivers from Intel's site.


----------



## kizwan

I would check in Task Schedular. Disabled any Asus task(s) that point to "C:\Windows\Chipset" folder.


----------



## tarka

Hi there,

Heres a strange one, ive had this board (P8Z68-V/GEN3) and (i52500k) for quite some time now. I have never updated the bios which is version 0301 and just happened to be looking ant the CPU support page for this board on the Asus site. It says here (http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/list.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V&os=&hashedid=f0AT3LgZYgFPjNJ8) that the i52500k is only supported from bios version 0401. I don't seem to have any problems with it but wondered why this might be? Or if I should update to the latest bios urgently?

Thanks as always guys!!


----------



## WesFenlon

The USB 3.0 port on my first-gen Z68 board is so weird. I installed the drivers for it multiple times, updated my BIOS, did everything I could think of--and it simply doesn't recognize USB 3.0 drives when I plug them in. They light up, so they're clearly powered! Yet they don't show up in Windows. And the strangest part? USB 2.0 drives plugged into the port work juuuust fine.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> Heres a strange one, ive had this board (P8Z68-V/GEN3) and (i52500k) for quite some time now. I have never updated the bios which is version 0301 and just happened to be looking ant the CPU support page for this board on the Asus site. It says here (http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/list.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V&os=&hashedid=f0AT3LgZYgFPjNJ8) that the i52500k is only supported from bios version 0401. I don't seem to have any problems with it but wondered why this might be? Or if I should update to the latest bios urgently?
> 
> Thanks as always guys!!


I would also like to know about this since I have the same setup.

BUMP!


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I would also like to know about this since I have the same setup.
> 
> BUMP!


Same here, although as good as my system is running, I am not anxious to update my BIOS unless I hear some very good reasons to do so.


----------



## tarka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I would also like to know about this since I have the same setup.
> 
> BUMP!


Would really like to know the best course of action though


----------



## sinnedone

Odd question here and wondering if anyone has some insight.

I have a P8P67 PRO Rev. 3.1 board with a 2500k right now. I was thinking about possibly getting a 3770k in the future and wanted to know if this is one of the boards that supported pcie 3.0 with the right cpu?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Odd question here and wondering if anyone has some insight.
> 
> I have a P8P67 PRO Rev. 3.1 board with a 2500k right now. I was thinking about possibly getting a 3770k in the future and wanted to know if this is one of the boards that supported pcie 3.0 with the right cpu?


P67 will only support up to PCIe 2.0. Link


----------



## sinnedone

Thank you I realize the specs, but some asus p67 boards were ready for pcie3 when used with a certain cpu. I was wondering if my particular model was one of them.

*EDIT*

Looks like my particular board is not one of them according to the linked flyer

LINK




Anyone have any information other than this?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank you I realize the specs, but some asus p67 boards were ready for pcie3 when used with a certain cpu. I was wondering if my particular model was one of them.
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> Looks like my particular board is not one of them according to the linked flyer
> 
> LINK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any information other than this?


P8P67 Rev. 3.1 in the flyer. So, I'm guessing your PRO version should support too. The only way to know is to try it yourself. The prerequisite for PCIe 3.0 support are capable CPU & the PCIe connections are electrically PCIe 3.0 capable.

P67 only support PCIe 2.0 but the GPU is connected to PCIe lanes from CPU, not chipset. So, the only thing left is the PCIe connections must electrically PCIe 3.0 capable for PCIe 3.0 support.


----------



## sinnedone

Yeah I guess I'll find out if/when I upgrade to a 3770k.

Thanks for the help everyone.


----------



## TwoCables

I dunno, I would say that if the plain P8P67 is the only P8P67 board listed, then the rest are not PCI-E 3.0 ready. I mean, why did they list the P8Z68 Deluxe/Gen3 but not the other Gen3 boards? Or how about the other P8H67 boards? This tells me that the only ones that are PCI-E 3.0 listed really are only the ones listed.


----------



## am dew1

I just bought an ASUS Xonar DSX PCI-E X1 sound card for my P8Z68V-Pro/GEN3 and would appreciate any suggestions on which PCI-E slot to install it into. I have an EVGA Geforce GT 430 graphics card installed in the upper most (closest to the CPU) PCI-E x16 slot. None of the other PCI or PCI-E slots are populated. This is my first motherboard with PCI-E....what would be the best slot to install the ASUS sound card? Thanks!

EDIT: After closer inspection of the manual (I'm at work now), I see that there are just two slots that it will fit into...one just above and one just below the slot I have the video card installed in. I suppose now it comes down to which slot will be the best physical fit so as to not interfere with the video card.


----------



## sinnedone

Actually you can put it in any pcie slot regardless of length. Just check the manual because bandwidth gets split between certain slots so make sure its not going into one shared by your graphics card.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Actually you can put it in any pcie slot regardless of length. Just check the manual because bandwidth gets split between certain slots so make sure its not going into one shared by your graphics card.


This. All PCI-E slots are backwards compatible in this sense, meaning that 16x, 8x and 4x are all compatible with 1x cards.


----------



## visata

My PC worked fine for more than a year. Two days ago I started to notice some random mouse freezing. I could just do simple task like browsing and my mouse freezes for 1 second on random occasions. After a while it comes to the point where my mouse LEDS start flickering and I cannot move it anywhere. Keyboard becomes unresponsive too. I tried changing mouse USB ports but it kept flickering. When I clicked shutdown button, in some cases it shutdowned properly and sometimes my OS showed shutting down message, monitors turned off but coolers kept working (CPU + case). Miinidump was generated only once though it didn't seem to me like clean shutdowns many times (please check screenshot for more info).

Just for the record I didn't do any changes neither hardware nor software recently. The only change is environmental. It's pretty hot here but it freezing happens in the evening too.

What I tested so far:
- ran memtest and it didn't show any issues with my RAM (2 full tests passed without any errors)
- switched PSU from my other PC
- detached all USB devices and left only mouse + keyboard
- updated BIOS to the latest one (3603)
- resetted to default BIOS settings (I usually overcloack CPU to 3.8GHz)
- disabled bluetooth & plc overvoltage
- unplugged all HDDs and SSDs
- upgraded my SSD from Vertex 3 120gb to 240gb
- clean OS install (Win8)

The culprit could be CPU, GPU or motherboard. Could my CPU degrade in a year and half though I did only light overclocking from 3.4GHz to 3.8Ghz? My PC hang once when I was checking my BIOS settings. Could I assume that the culprit is my motherboard Asus P8Z68/GEN3 and I need RMA?

Please check attached screenshot for more detailed info about my system


Thank you for responses!


----------



## Fenixx2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *visata*
> 
> My PC worked fine for more than a year. Two days ago I started to notice some random mouse freezing. I could just do simple task like browsing and my mouse freezes for 1 second on random occasions. After a while it comes to the point where my mouse LEDS start flickering and I cannot move it anywhere. Keyboard becomes unresponsive too. I tried changing mouse USB ports but it kept flickering. When I clicked shutdown button, in some cases it shutdowned properly and sometimes my OS showed shutting down message, monitors turned off but coolers kept working (CPU + case). Miinidump was generated only once though it didn't seem to me like clean shutdowns many times (please check screenshot for more info).
> 
> Just for the record I didn't do any changes neither hardware nor software recently. The only change is environmental. It's pretty hot here but it freezing happens in the evening too.
> 
> What I tested so far:
> - ran memtest and it didn't show any issues with my RAM (2 full tests passed without any errors)
> - switched PSU from my other PC
> - detached all USB devices and left only mouse + keyboard
> - updated BIOS to the latest one (3603)
> - resetted to default BIOS settings (I usually overcloack CPU to 3.8GHz)
> - disabled bluetooth & plc overvoltage
> - unplugged all HDDs and SSDs
> - upgraded my SSD from Vertex 3 120gb to 240gb
> - clean OS install (Win8)
> 
> The culprit could be CPU, GPU or motherboard. Could my CPU degrade in a year and half though I did only light overclocking from 3.4GHz to 3.8Ghz? My PC hang once when I was checking my BIOS settings. Could I assume that the culprit is my motherboard Asus P8Z68/GEN3 and I need RMA?
> 
> Please check attached screenshot for more detailed info about my system
> 
> 
> Thank you for responses!


I have a similar problem, my mouse is a Corsair M60 USB 3.0, and since yesterday i have problems , the Mouse disconnect randomly from USB. i tried in USB 2.0 and 3.0 but it happens anyway, also i put the mouse in my notebook and it works without problems. In the Asus P8Z68-v/Gen3 it happens ONLY in the MOUSE and only when i lift it. Here a video of the problem




I have the mouse firware to the latest version, and the Asus with the 3603 Bios

Please help me.

What I tested so far: Update Usb 3.0 drivers
Update motherboard drivers(Chipset,etc)

My computer:

i5 3570k
sentey erp700-sm
Zotac 560ti
Asus P8z68-v/gen3

Greetings!


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Actually you can put it in any pcie slot regardless of length. Just check the manual because bandwidth gets split between certain slots so make sure its not going into one shared by your graphics card.


I ended up putting in the top slot closest to the CPU (slot PCIEx1_1) , which according to this table is shared with the SATA controller (in use) and PCI_1 (not in use). My grahics card is in slot PCIEx16_3. Does that seem OK? Things seem to be working fine.


----------



## visata

Could you please add the correct link to your video?


----------



## Fenixx2013

Fixed!


----------



## visata

Is this happening over a certain period like every 10 seconds non stop? Does your mouse unplug along with keyboard (can you type anything?)? Was there any case when your mouse didn't connect back? LEDs flashing?


----------



## tarka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> Heres a strange one, ive had this board (P8Z68-V/GEN3) and (i52500k) for quite some time now. I have never updated the bios which is version 0301 and just happened to be looking ant the CPU support page for this board on the Asus site. It says here (http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/list.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V&os=&hashedid=f0AT3LgZYgFPjNJ8) that the i52500k is only supported from bios version 0401. I don't seem to have any problems with it but wondered why this might be? Or if I should update to the latest bios urgently?
> 
> Thanks as always guys!!


Bump


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tarka*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> Heres a strange one, ive had this board (P8Z68-V/GEN3) and (i52500k) for quite some time now. I have never updated the bios which is version 0301 and just happened to be looking ant the CPU support page for this board on the Asus site. It says here (http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/list.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V&os=&hashedid=f0AT3LgZYgFPjNJ8) that the i52500k is only supported from bios version 0401. I don't seem to have any problems with it but wondered why this might be? Or if I should update to the latest bios urgently?
> 
> Thanks as always guys!!
> 
> 
> 
> Bump
Click to expand...

If it works great for you then no need to update the BIOS. If you decided to update the BIOS, please read the description for each BIOS carefully.

[EDIT]
The link you provided is for *P8Z68-V* not *P8Z68-V/GEN3*. For *P8Z68-V/GEN3* motherboard, the correct link is:-
http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/list.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V/GEN3&os=&hashedid=lUiebGYgCR9OAc31

This one show i5-2500k was supported since BIOS 0301. Thankfully you asked question first, if not you'll probably bricked your motherboard because updating using wrong BIOS file.


----------



## zefs

Question:

I got a P8Z68-V board, and I was wondering if GPU performance will be compromised if I use the bottom two PCIe slots? the x8 and x4 ones(grey and black).


----------



## NRD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zefs*
> 
> Question:
> 
> I got a P8Z68-V board, and I was wondering if GPU performance will be compromised if I use the bottom two PCIe slots? the x8 and x4 ones(grey and black).


You should be fine, you might lose an fps or two but that's it. I recently picked up a GTX 780 and have been competing in the Valley benchmark thread here on OCN. I run a gt240 as a secondary card to run my TV off of and because I am using up another pcie slot for it, it automatically makes my lanes for the 780 run in x8 mode with no ill effect. I took the gt240 out to run some benches and the changes were insignificant (78.1 FPS with x8 and 79.2 FPS with x16) so unless you're competing in a synthetic benchmark it shouldn't matter too much.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zefs*
> 
> Question:
> 
> I got a P8Z68-V board, and I was wondering if GPU performance will be compromised if I use the bottom two PCIe slots? the x8 and x4 ones(grey and black).


If you want to use the black one as x4, you won't be able to use either of the x1 slots or the 20 pin USB 3.0 header or the eSATA.. You can only use any of those if you operate the black as x1. They share the same lanes.


----------



## tarka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If it works great for you then no need to update the BIOS. If you decided to update the BIOS, please read the description for each BIOS carefully.
> 
> [EDIT]
> The link you provided is for *P8Z68-V* not *P8Z68-V/GEN3*. For *P8Z68-V/GEN3* motherboard, the correct link is:-
> http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/list.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=P8Z68-V/GEN3&os=&hashedid=lUiebGYgCR9OAc31
> 
> This one show i5-2500k was supported since BIOS 0301. Thankfully you asked question first, if not you'll probably bricked your motherboard because updating using wrong BIOS file.


Phew! well spotted and many thanks!! Nice not to have given a sarcastic response too


----------



## am dew1

I am currently overclocking my i5-2500K / P8Z68PRO-GEN3 to 4.5, but, and this may seem a little odd that I would want to do this, but if I want to no longer overclock and go back to stock CPU speed, shall I load 'Optimized Defaults' in BIOS and if so, are there any BIOS settings I should change or check after I do that so that I get as much speed, lowest possible temps, etc as possible while still not over-clocking? Of course, what I should have done was to save my BIOS settings before I started OC'ing but I did not. I will however be sure and save my OC settings in case I want to go back to them. Thanks in advance.


----------



## raisethe3

^^^I think clearing the CMOS will reset everything back to default.


----------



## sinnedone

Loading optimized defaults will do that for you.

After that you need to set your boot order, check board features, and probably set your ram timings. (the board usually sets them to 1333mhz no matter what)


----------



## TwoCables

Yep, loading the optimized defaults sets everything back to factory defaults. Everything (but you get to keep your saved BIOS profiles).


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yep, loading the optimized defaults sets everything back to factory defaults. Everything (but you get to keep your saved BIOS profiles).


where you been man...?


----------



## General121

I've hit "load optimized defaults " to get to default...but I don't go to default. Every time it goes up but for now, I'm at "default " and my 2500k boosts to 4.3 lol


----------



## malmental

clear CMOS and try it again..


----------



## General121

Well I don't mind it boosting to 4.3 as it is since it's not any hotter somehow than what it was before when it was actually at default


----------



## malmental

sounds like it's running on stock voltage boosting to 4.3GHz, that doesn't sound to bad to me..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> where you been man...?


lol I only post when I see a reason to post. I never have anything to add unless it's a response to another post.


----------



## malmental

haven't talked to you in a while...
I MISSED YOU MAN..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> haven't talked to you in a while...
> I MISSED YOU MAN..


Aw man.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> haven't talked to you in a while...
> I MISSED YOU MAN..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aw man.
Click to expand...

Last Thing You Ate Thread is gone down in content now, not as fun.
my P8P67 WS Rev B3 (knock on wood) is running perfectly.
so we don't cross paths as much.
you on Steam any.?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> Last Thing You Ate Thread is gone down in content now, not as fun.
> my P8P67 WS Rev B3 (knock on wood) is running perfectly.
> so we don't cross paths as much.
> you on Steam any.?


I'm not on anything but OCN and e-mail.

Anyway, that food thread was just not for me. lol I had my fun, but I just wasn't a good fit and I was also sick of being trolled.


----------



## malmental

back on topic....

I have been thinking of a reason to upgrade from my (P8P67 WS Rev B3) but I can't think of one.
the BIOS is updated so I can slap a 3770K in there and be done with it (looking for a 2700K really..)
it runs x16/x16 and I do not need or use SRT or Virtu.
2.0 x16/ = 3.0 x8/ so MEH on that aspect of it being a reason to upgrade.

since Hawsell is also = MEH
no reason to do anything unless it blows (knock on wood..)


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yep, loading the optimized defaults sets everything back to factory defaults. Everything (but you get to keep your saved BIOS profiles).


Do I need to "Load Optimized Defaults" on each screen or just once on any screen and that affects everything?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yep, loading the optimized defaults sets everything back to factory defaults. Everything (but you get to keep your saved BIOS profiles).
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to "Load Optimized Defaults" on each screen or just once on any screen and that affects everything?
Click to expand...

how's that GT 430 holding up for you.?


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> how's that GT 430 holding up for you.?


Just fine! Can't say I notice much difference between it and the integrated video, but the price was right, so I am not complaining.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> how's that GT 430 holding up for you.?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just fine! Can't say I notice much difference between it and the integrated video, but the price was right, so I am not complaining.
Click to expand...

When you make it big time just take me with you..


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> When you make it big time just take me with you..


Don't hold your breath or you will truly need that gas mask you have on in your avatar!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Do I need to "Load Optimized Defaults" on each screen or just once on any screen and that affects everything?


just once on any screen.

all settings will change to defaults.

after that set your ram timings either manually or through xmp (XMP causes issues for some) check your boot order and boot features save and exit and you should be good.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> just once on any screen.
> 
> all settings will change to defaults.
> 
> after that set your ram timings either manually or through xmp (XMP causes issues for some) check your boot order and boot features save and exit and you should be good.


Thanks everyone for your responses. Does anyone know of a template or listing of ALL the UEFI BIOS settings that I could use to note my current BIOS settings? I know I can take screen shots or save the settings to a profile in BIOS, but I am looking for a way to be able to refer to my old settings while in BIOS without having to first print all the screen shots.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Thanks everyone for your responses. Does anyone know of a template or listing of ALL the UEFI BIOS settings that I could use to note my current BIOS settings? I know I can take screen shots or save the settings to a profile in BIOS, but I am looking for a way to be able to refer to my old settings while in BIOS without having to first print all the screen shots.


The only way is by printing them, or by using another computer to display them for you while you're in the BIOS.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Thanks everyone for your responses. Does anyone know of a template or listing of ALL the UEFI BIOS settings that I could use to note my current BIOS settings? I know I can take screen shots or save the settings to a profile in BIOS, but I am looking for a way to be able to refer to my old settings while in BIOS without having to first print all the screen shots.


Take a picture with your cell phone. lol

I do that sometimes


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Take a picture with your cell phone. lol
> 
> I do that sometimes


Believe it or not I do not own a cell phone that has a camera, but I do have a digital camera...thanks for the idea!


----------



## delavan

My trusty 'ol P8P67 DELUXE REV 3 died on me a few day ago...
The SATA controller seems to be the issue. I got the red LED light lid for BOOT DEVICE...

I RMA'd it, the replacement board is on its way.

I chose this opportunity to start building a HASWELL platform, base on the ASUS Maximus VI HERO mobo... wish me luck!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delavan*
> 
> My trusty 'ol P8P67 DELUXE REV 3 died on me a few day ago...
> The SATA controller seems to be the issue. I got the red LED light lid for BOOT DEVICE...
> 
> I RMA'd it, the replacement board is on its way.
> 
> I chose this opportunity to start building a HASWELL platform, base on the ASUS Maximus VI HERO mobo... wish me luck!


I wish you good luck!


----------



## sticks435

What is BIOS version is everyone recommending for a p8Z68-v pro non Gen3? I'm getting ready to drop a 780 Classified in tonight or tomorrow and am running 0801 from like Aug 15 2011. I don't even see that version on the website anymore, so not sure what it was.


----------



## delavan

Just a quick follow up on my ASUS RMA. They sent me a brand new replacement P8P67 DELUXE board, complete with accessories. Really impressed...


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delavan*
> 
> Just a quick follow up on my ASUS RMA. They sent me a brand new replacement P8P67 DELUXE board, complete with accessories. Really impressed...


That's super fast! In one day? At least according to your post.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> That's super fast! In one day? At least according to your post.


I think he means that it's being shipped or sent, not that he already got the replacement.


----------



## Rewel

Hi there,

I just wanted to share my excitement about controlling the fans of my P8Z68 PRO/GEN3 mobo - finally. I tried hard for the Speedfan to work, but as someone else in this thread said there is no way. I installed FAN Xpert 2 from ASUS for newer mobos and it works perfectly comparing to BIOS control. Now I can have silent pc with 0 rpm of the chasis fans, when the rig is not under load! The only thing is that the utility does not recognize both chassis fans - they are detected and controlled as one. But this is ok in practice.

So, I dl the utility (Version 2.01.01) from ASUS support for P8Z77-V PRO, the new mobo with FAN Xpert 2. When installing I selected only the FAN Xpert 2 and Probe II.

Now in the AI Suite II there are two new items in the Tools menu. Enjoy!









Sorry for cross posting if any ...

Cheers!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rewel*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> I just wanted to share my excitement about controlling the fans of my P8Z68 PRO/GEN3 mobo - finally. I tried hard for the Speedfan to work, but as someone else in this thread said there is no way. I installed FAN Xpert 2 from ASUS for newer mobos and it works perfectly comparing to BIOS control. Now I can have silent pc with 0 rpm of the chasis fans, when the rig is not under load! The only thing is that the utility does not recognize both chassis fans - they are detected and controlled as one. But this is ok in practice.
> 
> So, I dl the utility (Version 2.01.01) from ASUS support for P8Z77-V PRO, the new mobo with FAN Xpert 2. When installing I selected only the FAN Xpert 2 and Probe II.
> 
> Now in the AI Suite II there are two new items in the Tools menu. Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for cross posting if any ...
> 
> Cheers!


Does this only work with PWM fans?


----------



## Rewel

I've got Fractal Define R4 and it seems to me that these two fans are not PWM type. The cables have only three wires.


----------



## jcniest5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delavan*
> 
> Just a quick follow up on my ASUS RMA. They sent me a brand new replacement P8P67 DELUXE board, complete with accessories. Really impressed...


Not in my case. They sent me my old board back, un-fixed. I don't know why they would do that. I sent it back and now waiting for the second (supposedly) replacement board. Very disappointed in their RMA service (this time). I've had good experience with Asus' RMA in the past, but my current one really sucks. I am hoping to get a good/working board this time.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcniest5*
> 
> Not in my case. They sent me my old board back, un-fixed. I don't know why they would do that. I sent it back and now waiting for the second (supposedly) replacement board. Very disappointed in their RMA service (this time). I've had good experience with Asus' RMA in the past, but my current one really sucks. I am hoping to get a good/working board this time.


Did you tell them what was wrong? At least explain it to them, and see if they can replicate the problem. If they can, then they should decide from there.


----------



## jcniest5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> Did you tell them what was wrong? At least explain it to them, and see if they can replicate the problem. If they can, then they should decide from there.


I told them exactly what the problem was, and that the board they sent me is doing the same thing, so it has to be my old board. I was told that a replacement/different board was sent, but heck, a new board shouldn't have the same problem as my old board, so I think they were lying. I've read many horror stories with Asus' RMA sending customers bad boards as RMA replacement, so I wasn't surprise, just disappointed.

FYI: The board is a Z68-Pro/Gen3.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcniest5*
> 
> I told them exactly what the problem was, and that the board they sent me is doing the same thing, so it has to be my old board. I was told that a replacement/different board was sent, but heck, a new board shouldn't have the same problem as my old board, so I think they were lying. I've read many horror stories with Asus' RMA sending customers bad boards as RMA replacement, so I wasn't surprise, just disappointed.
> 
> FYI: The board is a Z68-Pro/Gen3.


Check the serial number. It is on the box and on the board.


----------



## jcniest5

They changed the SN. I just got the second RMA back but I haven't had the time to test it yet. It is the same board I sent in because I marked it.


----------



## GeneO

That is despicable of them.


----------



## jcniest5

Glad to report that the new / second RMA replacement is working so far.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcniest5*
> 
> Glad to report that the new / second RMA replacement is working so far.


That's good news! You by chance know what was wrong with it in the first place?


----------



## wongwarren

Sent my P8P67 Pro for RMA on the 11th. Hope they send me a really good one.


----------



## malmental

I know I have said this before and probably recently but my P8P67 WS Rev B3 (NF200) is still bad-ass and gives me no reason to upgrade.
I do not use Virtu or SRT so no reason for a Z68 or Z77 board unless this one blows (knock on wood..)
I might even pop a 3770K in there to max it out if not a 2700K..


----------



## General121

But p67 doesn't allow you to oc the CPU or gpu I forget which


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> But p67 doesn't allow you to oc the CPU or gpu I forget which


GPU..


----------



## TwoCables

P67 doesn't have onboard video.


----------



## jcniest5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> That's good news! You by chance know what was wrong with it in the first place?


I'm using it now. And no, they never told me (and why would they?) what was wrong with the original board, nor the second. I think they sent me a replacement board that was bad. I sent it back in and they fixed it. Just hope it will would for good.


----------



## jcniest5

Latest drama to this board...it worked like a charm for a few days then just last night, it pooped on me again with the same/exact symptom. Contacting Asus again with the hope that this time, they will replace it instead of just fixing it. It seems whatever fix they did, it works only temporary. It's like a person with bad habit, whatever he learns at the counseling session, he acts on it a few days, then he goes back to his old self again. ARGGG!!!!!


----------



## turrican9

Just wanna let everyone know that I'm still using my ASUS P8P67 PRO B3/[email protected] for my main rig. I see no reason to upgrade. This system has been rock solid all the way from April 2011. System has been running almost 24/7 all this time. It's just amazing how stable and good it has been for me.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9*
> 
> Just wanna let everyone know that I'm still using my ASUS P8P67 PRO B3/[email protected] for my main rig. I see no reason to upgrade. This system has been rock solid all the way from April 2011. System has been running almost 24/7 all this time. It's just amazing how stable and good it has been for me.


Yeah, same here (since July of 2011). I like to think it's the motherboard.


----------



## malmental

I would say +1 to all the comments about your P8 and P8P67 specifically series boards but I started the praising...


----------



## Alex132

Been running at 5Ghz for over 2 years now on this board. So yeah, I love it.


----------



## malmental

i5-2500K @ (4.5/4.8)GHz
ASUS P8P67 WS REV (B3) NF200 (x16/x16)

this board has been through 3 case changes and 6 different GPU configurations
including 4 different SLI set-ups..

that's all there is to say from me really..


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, same here (since July of 2011). I like to think it's the motherboard.


Yeah, I remember you buying the P8P67 EVO and joining the club. Glad it still works great for you!







I also remember Alex123 with his P8P67 PRO


----------



## takt

Can anyone PM me or post a link to a current 3603 BIOS for the P8Z68-V Pro (non-gen3) with all the latest oproms? Some of the links in the other threads are dead







Thanks!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *takt*
> 
> Can anyone PM me or post a link to a current 3603 BIOS for the P8Z68-V Pro (non-gen3) with all the latest oproms? Some of the links in the other threads are dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z68-V_PRO/P8Z68-V-PRO-ASUS-3603-win7_8.zip

I don't know what you mean by having the latest OPROMs, but this is 3603 on the official site of the P8P67-V Pro (non-Gen3).


----------



## benjamen50

I'd just like to tell you guys that I have a P8Z68-V LX Rev B3.

PROOF: "http://valid.canardpc.com/6h9itx"


----------



## toblossomblue

Well I made a fubar with my board. I updated the bios to 3603 and then updated the asmedia usb3 firmware to the latest, now my front usb2 ports are dead. During windows 7 install screen my mouse doesnt work and my keyboard does. With 3603 my bios freeze up also which I tracked to to the keyboard. It does not matter which usb port I use. I hit any key on the keyboard during the "press Del to get to bios" and it locks up. I tracked it to the USB firmware. Disconnecting hdd's and only using a mouse, I made the options for text mode boot up. The screen reads: 2KB's, 2 Mice, 2Hubs. If I use keyboard at all in the UEFI/BIOS it locks up also. At this time the motherboard is using 3402 but still has the usb problems but UEFI/BIOS work. Anyway to revert the asmedia firmware?


----------



## takt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z68-V_PRO/P8Z68-V-PRO-ASUS-3603-win7_8.zip
> 
> I don't know what you mean by having the latest OPROMs, but this is 3603 on the official site of the P8P67-V Pro (non-Gen3).


Thanks for the link, but what I'm referring to is specifically:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1314760/asus-p8z68-v-pro-p8z68-v-pro-gen3-p8z68-v-gen3-bios-mods-with-updated-oproms/ ;
http://www.overclock.net/t/1244232/asus-asrock-msi-gigabyte-bioss-with-updated-raid-orom/ ;
and http://www.overclock.net/t/1391780/bios-mod-request-p8z68-v-pro-3603-with-all-latest-firmware/ .

These guys are modding their BIOSes to have the latest orom/oprom code.


----------



## wongwarren

Okay so I just got my replacement board back from Asus and I have a problem. Installed everything, tried booting it up, won't post. It randomly gives me one of two errors. Sometimes the VGA LED lights up and stays there, sometimes it's the DRAM LED that's doing so. Tried using the MemOK button and was able to get it to post for three times, but each time after posting it shuts down and restarts the whole process again. I'm positive that my graphics card is not broken. My RAM though I'm not so sure but I'm 99% positive that it's fine. This is a completely new board and it doesn't post. Suggestions?


----------



## malmental

curse them on the phone and then send it back.
just like they did to me they sent you a bad board.
ASUS has been going to 'poop' lately..


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toblossomblue*
> 
> Well I made a fubar with my board. I updated the bios to 3603 and then updated the asmedia usb3 firmware to the latest, now my front usb2 ports are dead. During windows 7 install screen my mouse doesnt work and my keyboard does. With 3603 my bios freeze up also which I tracked to to the keyboard. It does not matter which usb port I use. I hit any key on the keyboard during the "press Del to get to bios" and it locks up. I tracked it to the USB firmware. Disconnecting hdd's and only using a mouse, I made the options for text mode boot up. The screen reads: 2KB's, 2 Mice, 2Hubs. If I use keyboard at all in the UEFI/BIOS it locks up also. At this time the motherboard is using 3402 but still has the usb problems but UEFI/BIOS work. Anyway to revert the asmedia firmware?


I'm having similar issues on my Z68 Deluxe board. I've upgraded my usb3 and other firmwares so many times I have lost count. Lately every now and then my Keyboard and Mouse on the usb2 rear ports will blink on and off and not function. I've placed them on the USB3 ports and the keyboard and mouse now work. This happens upon loading Windows. Bios function is fine. Anyone have any ideas?

Thank you.


----------



## Erper

hi gang

quick question:
would psu 600-650w be enough for:
i7 2600k
z68 pro
6950/670gtx
2hdd
5 fans
corsair h55??


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> hi gang
> 
> quick question:
> would psu 600-650w be enough for:
> i7 2600k
> z68 pro
> 6950/670gtx
> 2hdd
> 5 fans
> corsair h55??


yes...
quality brand with the required pci-e plugs, stay away from too many adapters..


----------



## benjamen50

That'll definitely do


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> yes...
> quality brand with the required pci-e plugs, stay away from too many adapters..


I recommend you plug that rig to a killawatt power wattage meter and see how many watts its pulling. I just put together a new Haswell 4670k rig with just the mobo, two ssds, 1 hdd, and h100i water cooler and was astounded to see that it was pulling 125 watts at load! That's with like 5 fans one of which being a San Ace 38mm monster (volt reduced). With the 650 watt Seasonic Psu that theoretically has 525 watts left for video cards! Granted haswell has a lower power rating but you should be fine..


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> yes...
> quality brand with the required pci-e plugs, stay away from too many adapters..


i had in mind Corsair CX600m


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> yes...
> quality brand with the required pci-e plugs, stay away from too many adapters..
> 
> 
> 
> i had in mind Corsair CX600m
Click to expand...

SeaSonic M12II 620
but the Corsair would work I believe..


----------



## Erper

dont have seasonic here


----------



## malmental

the Corsair will be fine.
I linked the Seasonic because it's actually a few dollars cheaper on newegg.
my apologies..


----------



## Erper

all good...
current WIP


----------



## TwoCables

You could easily power that with a good 400-450W PSU. The CX600M is not a very good PSU and it's usually way overpriced for what you get (cheap Chinese capacitors rated for only 85°C, and a 600W rating that's only good up to an internal PSU temperature of 30°C).

What store(s) can you order from, and how much money do you have for a PSU?


----------



## Erper

could order from pixmania...

i dont want to go crazy on price as psu that ive mentioned in store is €99 and online is around €60-65...

i had xfx 750w before.. but .. had to sell that build...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> could order from pixmania...
> 
> i dont want to go crazy on price as psu that ive mentioned in store is €99 and online is around €60-65...
> 
> i had xfx 750w before.. but .. had to sell that build...


Does it have to be modular? The 450W XFX Pro Series Core Edition is much better than the CX600M (internally speaking), and it's only £58.98.

http://www.pixmania.co.uk/pc-tower-supply/xfx-proseries-450w-power-supply-unit-core-edition/21264173-a.html


----------



## Erper

dont have to be modular, i just gave example of it..
is this psu any good for OC??


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> dont have to be modular, i just gave example of it..
> is this psu any good for OC??


Yes, that's why I recommended it. I won't recommend a PSU on Overclock.net unless it's good enough to power a system that will be overclocked.

I can also recommend the 520W Antec High Current Gamer M, which is partially modular and sells for £68.00:

http://www.pixmania.co.uk/pc-tower-supply/antec-hcg-520m-520-w-pc-power-supply/12396954-a.html


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yes, that's why I recommended it. I won't recommend a PSU on Overclock.net unless it's good enough to power a system that will be overclocked.
> 
> I can also recommend the 520W Antec High Current Gamer M, which is partially modular and sells for £68.00:
> 
> http://www.pixmania.co.uk/pc-tower-supply/antec-hcg-520m-520-w-pc-power-supply/12396954-a.html


didnt mean to insult.. lol...

ill check that antec, it seem very good and price is around €80...

also was thinking to add:

http://www.pixmania.ie/pc-memory/g-skill-ripjawsx-series-2-x-4-gb-ddr3-2133-pc3-17000-cl11-pc-memory-f3-17000cl11d-8gbxl/17968010-a.html


----------



## TwoCables

The new editor that they gave to us here on OCN is not allowing me to do what I want, so a new post is coming. Oh my god I hate Huddler! Heh. Sorry. I have to vent.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> didnt mean to insult.. lol...
> 
> ill check that antec, it seem very good and price is around €80...
> 
> also was thinking to add:
> 
> http://www.pixmania.ie/pc-memory/g-skill-ripjawsx-series-2-x-4-gb-ddr3-2133-pc3-17000-cl11-pc-memory-f3-17000cl11d-8gbxl/17968010-a.html


How can I check the prices that you're seeing, such as €80?

Also, remember to look for the HCG-M. If it doesn't have the 'M', then it's not the same (then it's not modular).


----------



## Erper

any recomendation on good ram?

i had corsair venngance ddr3 1600mhz cl9...

is this any good??

never had chance to deal with g.skill, all the time corsair


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> any recomendation on good ram?
> 
> i had corsair venngance ddr3 1600mhz cl9...
> 
> is this any good??
> 
> never had chance to deal with g.skill, all the time corsair


Oh I don't know memory that much. You really ought to be posting these questions in the specific forums, such as Power Supplies and Intel Memory. Otherwise, you're severely limiting yourself.

Although, I have the DDR3 1866 kit that looks like that and I like it - but I haven't tried overclocking it.


----------



## Erper

offer send...
that memory and psu u recomended cost me €150 with promotional code


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> offer send...
> that memory and psu u recomended cost me €150 with promotional code


I didn't exactly recommend that memory. I recommend that you seek for help in the Intel Memory forum.

Although, does "offer send..." mean that you already paid?


----------



## Erper

well i know a guy who had the same memory and never had any issues with it...

and yes, ive put it in order









should arrive 3-5 days..
free delivery


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> well i know a guy who had the same memory and never had any issues with it...


Will you be overclocking it? Although, at DDR3-2133, I doubt it.

However, my concern is that, what if you could get better memory for less that you can easily overclock to 2133 MHz? I hear that Samsung makes some memory that people are affectionately calling "Wonder RAM". It doesn't have a cool physical appearance like the Ripjaws X Series, but I hear that it more than makes up for it in raw performance as well as overclocking performance.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Will you be overclocking it? Although, at DDR3-2133, I doubt it.
> 
> However, my concern is that, what if you could get better memory for less that you can _easily_ overclock to 2133 MHz? I hear that Samsung makes some memory that people are affectionately calling "Wonder RAM". It doesn't have a cool physical appearance like the Ripjaws X Series, but I hear that it more than makes up for it in raw performance as well as overclocking performance.


well if im not happy i can always sell it









never heard of that samsung ram, although i have been inactive from computer world for a year now so im starting again from scratch with this build...
had to sell last one cause i was out of work


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> well if im not happy i can always sell it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> never heard of that samsung ram, although i have been inactive from computer world for a year now so im starting again from scratch with this build...
> had to sell last one cause i was out of work


Usually, this Samsung memory is much cheaper and can easily be overclocked to 2133 MHz all the way from DDR3-1600 without breaking a sweat and it has superior performance as well.

Now, I'm not sure, but I *think* this is a kit of that memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096 I had this URL 'saved' in my Location Bar in Firefox, so it must be it. It certainly looks like it to me.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Usually, this Samsung memory is much cheaper and can easily be overclocked to 2133 MHz all the way from DDR3-1600 without breaking a sweat and it has superior performance as well.
> 
> Now, I'm not sure, but I *think* this is a kit of that memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096 I had this URL 'saved' in my Location Bar in Firefox, so it must be it. It certainly looks like it to me.


Check what guy in third post said...

Impossible to find... lol....


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Check what guy in third post said...
> 
> Impossible to find... lol....


Well really though, the whole point I'm trying to make is that there could be something even better than this Ripjaws X Series memory for either the same price or less. I guess I like to shop around for a few days first, at least. That's me though.


----------



## Erper

Well i wanted to go back to corsair but seeing that there is not much of a drifference in price plus i never owned g.skill i went for it...
And i knew so many guys having g.skill on ddr2 and never had a single problem.. maybe its just their luck


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Well i wanted to go back to corsair but seeing that there is not much of a drifference in price plus i never owned g.skill i went for it...
> And i knew so many guys having g.skill on ddr2 and never had a single problem.. maybe its just their luck


I'm not saying that Corsair would be better. I'm just saying, what if you could have ended up with even better memory for the same price or less?  It's not that you're going to be unhappy with it, but I love reducing my costs wherever and whenever possible - especially if I can get something even better.


----------



## Erper

ive just checked and gtx 670 require psu of 550w ...
would that antec 520 be enough for it??

This is the card ive been looking to add


----------



## malmental

I would only if it has the required plugs so you do not have to use adapters.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I would only if it has the required plugs so you do not have to use adapters.


psu have 2 6pin connectors for gpu

Link


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I would only if it has the required plugs so you do not have to use adapters.
> 
> 
> 
> psu have 2 6pin connectors for gpu
> 
> Link
Click to expand...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> ive just checked and gtx 670 require psu of 550w ...
> would that antec 520 be enough for it??
> 
> This is the card ive been looking to add


That's for peak-rated PSUs. A typical 550W peak-rated PSU is going to have a +12V capacity of up to 396A, or 33A. More than likely, it'll be a little lower, but probably no less than 30A, or 360W.

The 450W XFX Pro Series Core Edition has a +12V capacity of 408W (34A), and the 520W HCG-M's is 480W (40A). Both have much more than enough power.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> That's for peak-rated PSUs. A typical 550W peak-rated PSU is going to have a +12V capacity of up to 396A, or 33A. More than likely, it'll be a little lower, but probably no less than 30A, or 360W.
> 
> The 450W XFX Pro Series Core Edition has a +12V capacity of 408W (34A), and the 520W HCG-M's is 480W (40A). Both have much more than enough power.


It seems you know psu-s...

Haha...
Thx for help, again :-D
I cant wait to finish this setup...
Only screen is missing and "happy days" :-D


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> It seems you know psu-s...
> 
> Haha...
> Thx for help, again :-D
> I cant wait to finish this setup...
> Only screen is missing and "happy days" :-D


Happy Days?!  Do you mean the old T.V. show?

Anyway, you're welcome.

Yeah, some people would say that I know PSUs. hehe I know what I need to know so that I can help people make informed decisions and good purchases. Beyond that, I leave the more complicated stuff up to the experts, such as all of the fine details about what's inside and all that.


----------



## malmental

I guess I'm no help at all huh.?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I guess I'm no help at all huh.?


It's just that, PSU questions should be posted in the Power Supplies forum, not in threads like this.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's just that, PSU questions should be posted in the Power Supplies forum, not in threads like this.


thx for help, again







...

psu arrived, only ram left to come..
and ive changed my mind about gpu, will get saphire twin fan 7950 3Gb for $243.49


----------



## slimex

Hey guys,

I got 2x 4GB G-Skill 2133Mhz CL9 Modules running on my P8Z68 Deluxe for over 2 years now. I am considering an upgrade to 16GB. I do not really know which combination (4x4 or 2x8) or product i should use. Best would be to have 16 gigs running at 2133 CL9, but is there even a way to realize this ?

I would be grateful if anyone could give me some advice about specific modules or combinations to use here to get best speed and timings, while having my CPU running at 4,7 Ghz, as it does at the moment.

Thanks in advance


----------



## malmental

if your gaming primarily then no need for more than 8GB of RAM, anything more is a waste..


----------



## sg13040

Hello to all,

maybe it's a question that others have already done.

I have a MB Asus P8Z68-V PRO Gen3 Bios 3402 of 5/7/2012.

I have two partitions: one with Win XP and the other with Win 7, on the site in relation to my Asus MB, there are two BIOS updates: 1) Version 3603 (Only for WinXP & Vista) - 2) Version 3603 (Only for Win7 & Win8). If I wanted to do the update from 3402, which Bios should I download? considering that I have 2 partitions with different OS?

Also wondering if it is necessary to do the update and what differences there are between version 3402 and 3603.

thanks


----------



## slimex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> if your gaming primarily then no need for more than 8GB of RAM, anything more is a waste..


The question is not if this is a waste or not. This question I have already answered for myself. The question is how to realize it







.
Sometimes I run CAD programs that use 5-6GB for themselves. And I do not want to have to close browsers etc. to get them enough space to run without stuttering through paging.

But regarding gaming:
I think the memory requirement of games could also get higher, when the new consoles are released later this year. This would also apply to video memory requirements. But let's see if this happens and how much difference there will be


----------



## malmental

if doing all that then yes, you need more RAM...


----------



## sg13040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sg13040*
> 
> Hello to all,
> 
> maybe it's a question that others have already done.
> 
> I have a MB Asus P8Z68-V PRO Gen3 Bios 3402 of 5/7/2012.
> 
> I have two partitions: one with Win XP and the other with Win 7, on the site in relation to my Asus MB, there are two BIOS updates: 1) Version 3603 (Only for WinXP & Vista) - 2) Version 3603 (Only for Win7 & Win8). If I wanted to do the update from 3402, which Bios should I download? considering that I have 2 partitions with different OS?
> 
> Also wondering if it is necessary to do the update and what differences there are between version 3402 and 3603.
> 
> thanks


Someone who is able to give me an answer?

Th


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sg13040*
> 
> Someone who is able to give me an answer?
> 
> Th


usually you have info about what is new in latest bios...


----------



## sg13040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper*
> 
> usually you have info about what is new in latest bios...


my question is not dealt with the news of the new bios, that was an additional information.


----------



## benjamen50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sg13040*
> 
> my question is not dealt with the news of the new bios, that was an additional information.


I can answer that question for you. Both of those BIOS links are EXACTLY linked to the same link, they both are the same 3603 BIOS. So go ahead and flash at your own risk.

And what's new in the BIOS update? Probably PCI-E enhanced compatibility and increased system stability.


----------



## sg13040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> I can answer that question for you. Both of those BIOS links are EXACTLY linked to the same link, they both are the same 3603 BIOS. So go ahead and flash at your own risk.
> 
> And what's new in the BIOS update? Probably PCI-E enhanced compatibility and increased system stability.


Hello,

but if the bios are the same, because then there are two links with the indication of two different OS?

I'm having 2 partitions, XP and W7, I can take either one of the Bios?

Th


----------



## alancsalt

Does not matter which link you use as they both download the same file.


----------



## benjamen50

Alan is right, as I said both bios links are 1000% the same


----------



## sg13040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> Alan is right, as I said both bios links are 1000% the same


Maybe I got it. The BIOS is the same in both the links, the difference is that first you have to install the IRST driver related to the OS. So before doing the BIOS update, I have two installations of the IRST driver, one per partition. Once you install the two drivers, XP and W7, I can do the update of the Bios. Of course, since I do not have a SSD , I do not need to configure the HD as Raid. Correct? At this point I also wonder if, given the fact that I did not need the Raid, i must update the IRST driver?.

thanks


----------



## OldGeek

If you are not actually using IRST why upgrade the BIOS? I have seen nothing to suggest that the upgrade is anything more than just fixing IRST. So, stick with 3402 IF you are not running IRST. I would suggest that flashing BIOS is inherently risky and should only be done if the upgrade adds some functionality that you need or fixes some problem you have. So do you need 3603 or want 3603?


----------



## sg13040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldGeek*
> 
> If you are not actually using IRST why upgrade the BIOS? I have seen nothing to suggest that the upgrade is anything more than just fixing IRST. So, stick with 3402 IF you are not running IRST. I would suggest that flashing BIOS is inherently risky and should only be done if the upgrade adds some functionality that you need or fixes some problem you have. So do you need 3603 or want 3603?


thanks for the reply, it is as I thought, if the BIOS update (3402 -> 3603) provided various improvements, then it had to be done. Otherwise, only for IRST I, by the way, do not use, then, should not be done.


----------



## Erper

had a little play with my setup...
OCed to 4.5
temps seems ok


----------



## Algy

hi!
Yesterday I installed windows 8.1 on my p8z68-v pro and when i was looking for the drivers on the asus's web, i found my self that the chipset driver wasn't there at the chipset section, only the IMEI's driver showed up. Odd, because on windows 7 both were there. my question is: it's necesary to install only the IMEI's or do I need to search for the chipset driver too and install it?

thanx in advance


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Algy*
> 
> hi!
> Yesterday I installed windows 8.1 on my p8z68-v pro and when i was looking for the drivers on the asus's web, i found my self that the chipset driver wasn't there at the chipset section, only the IMEI's driver showed up. Odd, because on windows 7 both were there. my question is: it's necesary to install only the IMEI's or do I need to search for the chipset driver too and install it?
> 
> thanx in advance


I would just because I can.  That way you're not using the generic Microsoft driver.

http://downloadmirror.intel.com/20775/eng/infinst_autol.exe


----------



## Br0k3nLiNk

I have a question about my PC.

I have had Windows 7 on it for ages, moved to W8 a couple weeks/months ago. My USB3 controller on my board completely kills my PC.

If i plug a normal USB device into it, they behave erratically. Then i plug in a USB3.0 hard drive or something similar for data transfer and the PC goes all juddery, like i can move the mouse for about 1 second it will then stop for 2 and then come back for a second. This happens right up until i disconnect the device.

Is there anything i can do to stop this? Happened on Windows 7 and also Windows 8. Didnt contact ASUS because i was waiting to test Windows 8. I have also checked firmware and then updated drivers. Same issue.

If anyone knows how to sort this i'd be appreciative. Now i actually own USB3.0 devices its a bit of a pain i cant even use them lol....


----------



## Algy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I would just because I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That way you're not using the generic Microsoft driver.
> 
> http://downloadmirror.intel.com/20775/eng/infinst_autol.exe


ty for the answer. I've just installed that chipset driver u posted it (9.4.0.1026) with the IMEI ones on the asus's page for my mobo (Management Engine Interface V9.5.10.1658 for Windows Win8.1 64bit---(WHQL).(1.5M))

I hope that everything gonna be ok









ty TwoCables

edit: i was wondering where did u find that this chipset driver is the proper one, why this version and not other? because i searched a little and i found new ones too


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Algy*
> 
> ty for the answer. I've just installed that chipset driver u posted it (9.4.0.1026) with the IMEI ones on the asus's page for my mobo (Management Engine Interface V9.5.10.1658 for Windows Win8.1 64bit---(WHQL).(1.5M))
> 
> I hope that everything gonna be ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ty TwoCables
> 
> edit: i was wondering where did u find that this chipset driver is the proper one, why this version and not other? because i searched a little and i found new ones too


You're welcome.

The one I found is just one that Intel's download center said was the newest one. It's compatible with the P67 and Z68 chipset (Series 6).


----------



## Wabbit16

Hey guys

Are the VRM's known to be a bit weak on the P8P67-M Pro motherboards?

I know it does not have the Digi-VRM support, but I am struggling to get a stable overclock over 4.5GHz. I have an i5 2500K, multi at 45 and BCLK at 100, with a voltage offset of 0.004, LLC and EPU disabled, Internal PLL also off. Oh, and my Additional Turbo Voltage is 0.012 at the moment. This gives me a VCORE of 1.36V when under load. It runs like a charm at 4.5GHz, but 4.6GHz and it isn't stable at all, even after pumping up the voltage.

Would this be caused by the VRM's maybe? I could get it to 5GHz in the past but this was also about a year ago and I haven't tried since. I had it at 4GHz for the past year or so @ 1.3V, for what it's worth.


----------



## malmental

sounds like chip degradation..


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> sounds like chip degradation..


Would it happen with an overclock of 4GHz and voltages below 1.35V? I was under the impression it only happened if you had high voltages (1.4V+) for extended periods of time


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> sounds like chip degradation..
> 
> 
> 
> Would it happen with an overclock of 4GHz and voltages below 1.35V? I was under the impression it only happened if you had high voltages (1.4V+) for extended periods of time
Click to expand...

I thought you stated you ran it at higher clocks for a long period of time.?
My bad, I have to read your post again; it was morning time when I first did..


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I thought you stated you ran it at higher clocks for a long period of time.?
> My bad, I have to read your post again; it was morning time when I first did..


No worries









It was slightly higher, 300mhz more than what the turbo would have gotten me. My temps never went over 65 degrees C, and I had it running under a Hyper 212+ (fantastic cooler for the price IMHO).

Maybe I'm just imagining it...or I'm busy losing my touch


----------



## looks

may be a long shot but... has anybody upgraded P8P67's BIOS from 1850 to the latest 3602, if so, any advantages? thx


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looks*
> 
> may be a long shot but... has anybody upgraded P8P67's BIOS from 1850 to the latest 3602, if so, any advantages? thx


My brothers board was having wake from sleep issues the bios update fixed.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i have a few stupid questions i imagine.

has anyone replaced the vrm heatsinks with water blocks? if you have, how did you solve the heatpipe connected heatsink? i dont know if the nb/sb blocks fit or not.

does this block fit that area?
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p11460_MIPS-ASUS-P8P67-S-rie-Southbridge.html
it comes in this block kit
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p11832_MIPS-ASUS-P8P7-Kit-S-rie---Nickel-POM----dition-Limit-.html
im still looking for hole measurements.

ek claims their block may block pci-e cards, aka graphics cards. so they are stating it is for the pch chip cooling. anyone know whats going on?

*EDIT* - actually the same heatsink is on the P8Z68 Deluxe/GEN3 if anyone who has this mobo has tried.


----------



## awdrifter

Is there any special option that I need to enable for the eSATA port? I connected a HDD to the eSATA port, but it's not recognized in Windows, even after a restart. If anyone got the eSATA port to work please help. Thanks.


----------



## benjamen50

Mine is working but this is with a media dashboard that has a esata port I just plug it in and if works.


----------



## roguegeek

Can Haswell be used with the Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3 or is it strictly Ivy Bridge?


----------



## benjamen50

No... Z68-Z77 are all LGA1155. You need motherboard with like Z87 which is LGA1150 for haswell.


----------



## TwoCables

Just for the sake of clarity: the number in "LGA 1155" or "LGA 1150" refers to the number of metal (copper?) contact points in the socket and on the CPU.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> No... Z68-Z77 are all LGA1155. You need motherboard with like Z87 which is LGA1150 for haswell.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Just for the sake of clarity: the number in "LGA 1155" or "LGA 1150" refers to the number of metal (copper?) contact points in the socket and on the CPU.


and z68/p67 is mainly for sandy bridge. it doesnt have pci-e 3.0 (for the most part. some boards do have it) and memory can only reach 2133 speeds. sandy bridge doesnt support either of these i assume sb doesnt support faster ram.
z77 was designed for ivy bridge as the boards support higher speed memory and pci-e 3.0. sandy bridge run on them but they dont take advantage of newer chipset/board features.

where you been TwoC ? i havent seen you around for awhile. i assume youve been hanging out in the threads with cooler people? lol .. what bios are you running? im still on 2302. it seemed to help my overclocking the best.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> and z68/p67 is mainly for sandy bridge. it doesnt have pci-e 3.0 (for the most part. some boards do have it) and memory can only reach 2133 speeds. sandy bridge doesnt support either of these i assume sb doesnt support faster ram.
> z77 was designed for ivy bridge as the boards support higher speed memory and pci-e 3.0. sandy bridge run on them but they dont take advantage of newer chipset/board features.
> 
> where you been TwoC ? i havent seen you around for awhile. i assume youve been hanging out in the threads with cooler people? lol .. what bios are you running? im still on 2302. it seemed to help my overclocking the best.


I've been focusing on giving my drum set some much-needed and very overdue love, so I've been quite focused on drum-related stuff for the past few weeks.

I have BIOS 1850.


----------



## raisethe3

@pc-illiterate- What bios were you on previously before jumping on 2302? I am asking because I want to know if its worth flashing from the one I have now (BIOS 2103). Not that the current BIOS I am running is giving me any problems at all.

@TwoCables- Still on 1850, I see.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i was on 2103 actually. didnt see any positive or negative effects. i 'upgraded' because others were getting more stable clocks so i went for it. didnt help me from what i remember
my ram seemed to benefit not my 2500k


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i was on 2103 actually. didnt see any positive or negative effects. i 'upgraded' because others were getting more stable clocks so i went for it. didnt help me from what i remember
> my ram seemed to benefit not my 2500k


Ahh...okay then. I will just stick with my 2103. Thanks for the reply!


----------



## Nerull

Has anyone tried to run tri/quad fire on this board? im upgrading a bit and wanted to stick 3-4 double slot cards in there and was wondering if they would fit and have enough clearance for that?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nerull*
> 
> Has anyone tried to run tri/quad fire on this board? im upgrading a bit and wanted to stick 3-4 double slot cards in there and was wondering if they would fit and have enough clearance for that?


What board? We would need to know that first.


----------



## Nerull

P8Z68/GEN3


----------



## benjamen50

I'm pretty sure the p8z68 v-lx and higher models can SLI including Z77.


----------



## benjamen50

If I can use two graphics card with SLI bridge connector and boot to windows with Nvidia driver/settings showing 2x GTX gpus that must mean its SLI compatible or capable.


----------



## TwoCables

Guys, he's wondering if the cards would fit and have enough clearance.


----------



## pc-illiterate

this motherboard?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131792

sure 3 will fit. the middle card will be choked for air and the bottom card will run at most at x4 not x8 as the top 2 cards will.
summary: 3rd card is not worth buying and installing.


----------



## Nerull

yeah was just wondering about the clearances, the x4 doesnt matter cause it will just be used for alt coin mining, but i guess if its gonna be choked for air it would fry pretty quick.

thanks for the responses


----------



## speedlever

I'm having an issue rebuilding a P8z68V PC. My post is here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1042186/asus-z68-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-4-22/1330#post_21291460
but no responses yet. Perhaps I should have posted it in this thread instead.









I'd appreciate any ideas you might have.

Thanks.


----------



## benjamen50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedlever*
> 
> I'm having an issue rebuilding a P8z68V PC. My post is here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1042186/asus-z68-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-4-22/1330#post_21291460
> but no responses yet. Perhaps I should have posted it in this thread instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd appreciate any ideas you might have.
> 
> Thanks.


Well to me it looks like the motherboard battery is low, try replacing it.


----------



## speedlever

CMOS battery measured 3.256v. I checked a new one at 3.281v and replaced it. No change.

I pulled out all but one stick of ram. No change. I reconnected the original drive configuration, no change. I disconnected all drives with one stick of ram, no change.


----------



## benjamen50

If clearing the CMOS doesn't work as well, I'd say the motherboard is defective.


----------



## basilisk

Hi all,

I've got a problem which I'd really appreciate some help with.

After installing my new ASUS GTX760 graphics card my PC will no longer boot. It shows the mobo splash screen and beeps once like everything is ok, and then stops. After a short time it beeps again, and then after a bit longer it beeps once more and then reboots to an black screen with a flashing cursor at top left. It appears dead.
When the splash screen is showing the mobo status led BOOT_DEVICE_LED shows red (all other leds are off, including the graphics one). After the reboot the all status leds are off, so probably can't trust them ;-)

Interestingly, when the splash screen is showing the image itself only takes up a portion of the screen in middle and not the full screen. When the GTX460 is in the splash screen takes up the full screen.

After putting the old GTX460 back in, the PC boots up into windows no problems.

My mobo is an ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 (BIOS v3603 with garifox's trim enabled RAID OROM v12.7.0.1936), PSU is a thermaltake toughpower 750W. System disk is 2x Samsung 840 Pro256GB in RAID-0. I've tried removing all non-boot drives and soundcard and also resetting the BIOS to defaults with no but still no go.

I hope that I've made sense.
Has anyone seen this before? If so, what to do? Any help is appreciated.
I've contacted ASUS but so far no response.

Cheers


----------



## speedlever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> If clearing the CMOS doesn't work as well, I'd say the motherboard is defective.


I took a chance and ordered a new BIOS chip. That took care of the problem. Seems the 3603 BIOS on the Z68 needs a double flash which I didn't know at the time.


----------



## TwoCables

*Edit:* Nevermind.



Spoiler: My original post



Ever since I bought the P8P67 EVO, I've been using the USB 2.0 port below for my wired mouse:










Lately though, I've been having this weird issue where, when I am in Microsoft Paint trying to crop a screenshot, one or both of the following things happen:


During the Click & Drag technique for selecting a section of a screenshot for cropping, it will seem as though I accidentally let go of the mouse button for a split second.
During the Click & Drag technique for selecting a section of a screenshot for cropping, the drag will discontinue as though I let go of the mouse button and the section that was successfully selected will get magnified a little bit. It will sometimes also get dragged a few millimeters as well.

So, there's a weird malfunction. I even noticed it when trying to select a large wall of text once. However, I have never had any other noticeable problems with the performance of my mouse.

A few days ago, I suddenly decided that maybe the connection wasn't 100% secure, so I pushed on it to make sure it was. However, it didn't seem that it needed to be pushed in at all, but this still seemed to fix it. So, I figured that I discovered the problem and I was done.

The next day, the problem come back. So this time, I unplugged it and plugged it back in. That seemed to fix it and once again I thought that I was done.

The problem came back later that day, so I decided to switch to this USB port:










That was 2 days ago now, and the problem hasn't returned! Dare I say, I think the performance of my mouse is improved as well in ways that I didn't know needed improving. It just feels more accurate or something. It could be the placebo effect, but I don't know. I'm also noticing that my Autoscrolling is smoother. It used to be smooth with a slight hiccup-like jitter once every second or so. Now, it's liquid-smooth.

So, the reason why I'm posting is to ask a question: is this normal for the P8P67 series? Is it normal for one of the USB ports to begin going bad after a while? Or, could I have somehow put some dust in there at one point when plugging my mouse into it? Speaking of which, I did take the end of my vacuum hose and sealed it over these USB ports to suck out any possible dust that might be in there, but that didn't fix the problem. I did that early on in my troubleshooting of this problem.

Fortunately, the other USB 2.0 ports are still free, so if this one goes bad too for some reason, then I have 4 left. lol

*Edit:* Nevermind. The problem is persisting. I will try a different mouse.

*Edit #2:* Yep. It was the mouse. Damn. lol Oh well. I have a new mouse now!


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> if your gaming primarily then no need for more than 8GB of RAM, anything more is a waste..


Going through the thread and this caught my attention. I respectfully disagree. I've got 16gb of ram and with the AMD ramdrive utility copied my Skyrim folder into a 10GB ramdrive and wow! So much faster and smoother. If only I had more ram! Might go for 32gb!


----------



## inflatablemouse

Hey guys,

My MSI P67A-GD80 broke down one day (actually, on the very last day of its warranty with only 2 hours left to get it out of my system and bring it to the shop) and they couldn't trade it for the same board. The only thing they could offer me was this P8P67 EVO board. I suppose its a fair trade







.

Anyways. My i7 2600k was running stable at 4.8Ghz with 1.40v.


I don't want 4.8 back, I'd settle for 4.6 (that's what I was running before the MSI broke). But here's my problem.

Whatever I set in the BIOS, it always boots at 3.4. I click the OC Tuner, choose OK. It reboots and clicks twice and when I go back to the BIOS on every CPU info screen it says 3.4. The yellow text in the AI screen says target speed is 4.3 (or 4.6 if that's what I choose manually).

I'm not running Windows anymore I'm running Debian. In the OS I can check with cpufreqinfo. I run prime95 with 8 threads and temps never seem to get over 60 degrees with fans below 1200. To me that's another sign its not running at its configured speeds.

I'm at the latest BIOS version. I followed this guide:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110

I've tried after a full CMOS reset too.

Am I just being dim and doing it wrong?


----------



## pc-illiterate

dont click overclock tuner.
set you ai overclock tuner on auto or xmp
set your cpu multi in cpu power management.
set your voltages and offsets.
save and reboot.

and that isnt a great guide to follow. the best is munaim1's guide in the sandy stable club. will edit with a link

*EDIT* - heres the link.
http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/2240#post_14466483

good voltages guide that works for my evo and 2500k
http://www.overclock.net/t/910467/the-ultimate-sandy-bridge-oc-guide-p67a-ud7-performance-review#post_11945966

i started with sins voltages and didnt need to tweak anything,vccio set to 1.1v for 4 dimm of ram and pll at 1.7125v because i couldnt hit 1.71v

munaim1's guide does work better than the rog guide.


----------



## inflatablemouse

Thanks for the reply.

I've done all that. I only used the OC tuner button to see what it would do (I'd think that some automatic mode would always do something but it doesn't).

I'm familiar with general overclocking and munaim's guide, I'm on the superstable 4.8 list with the MSI board. he put me on there







.

I've made some screenshots I can post them if it helps.

I found out that if I disable speedstep it seems to work, but I don't think that should be required is it? It's currently set to 4.6 with speedstep enabled and cpufreq-info shows 3.4 as the maximum.


----------



## inflatablemouse

Argh. I overlooked the CPU Current Capability, I had left it set to 100%. I set it 140% and it's working now (finally).


----------



## Catscratch

Did anyone else notice the RESET led on EVO (and deluxe) after latest bios ? I clearly remember it being turning off, only red power button remained lid after boot. Now both red and green are lid all the time







(on the mobo)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> Did anyone else notice the RESET led on EVO (and deluxe) after latest bios ? I clearly remember it being turning off, only red power button remained lid after boot. Now both red and green are lid all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (on the mobo)


I don't have the latest BIOS. I'm still using 1850, and you're right: the Reset button *does* turn off. Funny.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't have the latest BIOS. I'm still using 1850, and you're right: the Reset button *does* turn off. Funny.


weird. and the asus splash screen goes too fast now. uber fast boot. could be related to disabling extra sata controllers thou. is there a test ram option , i never checked. that also slows boot process to allow easier setup access. right now i just keep pressing del from no signal to reach step in time.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> weird. and the asus splash screen goes too fast now. uber fast boot. could be related to disabling extra sata controllers thou. is there a test ram option , i never checked. that also slows boot process to allow easier setup access. right now i just keep pressing del from no signal to reach step in time.


Just press and hold Del. Actually, disable Full Screen Logo in the Boot tab in the UEFI BIOS. Then, wait for when the information and specs pop up during the POST. As *soon* as you see that, just begin pressing and holding Del until it disappears. As soon as it disappears, the UEFI BIOS is being loaded, and so you can let go of Del as soon as it disappears. That's a total of about 1-2 seconds.

*Edit:* It even says in the manual, "At power on, hold down the Del <Delete> key to enter the BIOS Setup."


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Just press and hold Del. Actually, disable Full Screen Logo in the Boot tab in the UEFI BIOS. Then, wait for when the information and specs pop up during the POST. As *soon* as you see that, just begin pressing and holding Del until it disappears. As soon as it disappears, the UEFI BIOS is being loaded, and so you can let go of Del as soon as it disappears. That's a total of about 1-2 seconds.


thanks, ill try next time i restart.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> thanks, ill try next time i restart.


You're welcome!

Now, I might not be around for a while here. I'm getting ready to clean my computer.


----------



## wrath6647

I recently watercooled my cpu and am in the process of overclocking it and came across this thread so like to join, here is a pic of my build with my p8z68 Deluxe/gen3




Along with a CPU-Z validation http://valid.canardpc.com/m0rq88


----------



## mksteez

Hello OCN, I currently have the P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 and was wondering if anybody is using it with a 3770K? any problem with using an Ivy with this board?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mksteez*
> 
> Hello OCN, I currently have the P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 and was wondering if anybody is using it with a 3770K? any problem with using an Ivy with this board?


As long as you have the latest BIOS, it should be problem-free.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mksteez*
> 
> Hello OCN, I currently have the P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 and was wondering if anybody is using it with a 3770K? any problem with using an Ivy with this board?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> As long as you have the latest BIOS, it should be problem-free.


I'm even running my P8P67 Pro with Ivy.


----------



## kurtnilsen

Anybody managed to get memory working at speeds over 2133 mhz? Just installed 3770k without problems, but ram still wont post over 2133....


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kurtnilsen*
> 
> Anybody managed to get memory working at speeds over 2133 mhz? Just installed 3770k without problems, but ram still wont post over 2133....


im pretty sure its a limitation of the p67 chipset just as the pci-e 3.0 isnt available except on z68 gen3 boards.

will edit when i find that info.

*EDIT* - lots of these threads and posts on the web
http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=70748

sb only does a mem divider of 1:8 and 2400mhz needs a 1:9 divider
what mobo do you have?


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im pretty sure its a limitation of the p67 chipset just as the pci-e 3.0 isnt available except on z68 gen3 boards.
> 
> will edit when i find that info.
> 
> *EDIT* - lots of these threads and posts on the web
> http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=70748
> 
> sb only does a mem divider of 1:8 and 2400mhz needs a 1:9 divider
> what mobo do you have?


Some of the asus P8P67 mobo's have pci 3.0 when the BIOS is updated (and combined with an ivy CPU of course)

http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/pcie3_ready/

http://www.overclock.net/t/1242118/asus-p8p67-deluxe-and-pci-e-3-0-question


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Some of the asus P8P67 mobo's have pci 3.0 when the BIOS is updated (and combined with an ivy CPU of course)
> 
> http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/pcie3_ready/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1242118/asus-p8p67-deluxe-and-pci-e-3-0-question


and as you read, they are not sli boards that have pci-e 3.0 support. the only sli mobos that support pci-e 3.0 are the z68 gen3 mobos. these mobos have the dual x8 pci-e lanes. and im sure but not positive it was only asus that did this. dont bring asrock out as a 'but another did do it' because asrock is asus.
i dont understand why true gamer boards didnt get what lower end gamer boards got. yes i know about the plx chip and pci-e lane switches but really, what the hell asus. you knew what intel was doing. did you do it because you knew high end p67 boards would need to be replaced if we wanted to take full advantage of sli pci-e3?


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> and as you read, they are not sli boards that have pci-e 3.0 support. the only sli mobos that support pci-e 3.0 are the z68 gen3 mobos. these mobos have the dual x8 pci-e lanes. and im sure but not positive it was only asus that did this. dont bring asrock out as a 'but another did do it' because asrock is asus.
> i dont understand why true gamer boards didnt get what lower end gamer boards got. yes i know about the plx chip and pci-e lane switches but really, what the hell asus. you knew what intel was doing. did you do it because you knew high end p67 boards would need to be replaced if we wanted to take full advantage of sli pci-e3?


Yes, i've read it. That's why I underlined 'some' and posted that link with it


----------



## TiezZ BE

DP


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kurtnilsen*
> 
> Anybody managed to get memory working at speeds over 2133 mhz? Just installed 3770k without problems, but ram still wont post over 2133....


I've always had stability issues with devices on the usb bus dropping out on 2133mhz on my Z68 board with all four banks full. Stable at 1333..


----------



## kurtnilsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im pretty sure its a limitation of the p67 chipset just as the pci-e 3.0 isnt available except on z68 gen3 boards.
> 
> will edit when i find that info.
> 
> *EDIT* - lots of these threads and posts on the web
> http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=70748
> 
> sb only does a mem divider of 1:8 and 2400mhz needs a 1:9 divider
> what mobo do you have?


I got the P8Z68 pro gen3.

Got a sandy bridge cpu before, and i got 2133mhz on the ram. Thought i would get 2400 when i switched to ivy, but that seems not to be the case :/


----------



## kurtnilsen

I have not seen this problem on my computer, but i only run with two memory sticks.


----------



## solafive

Hi, new to the overclocking deal and I followed this thread in setting my BIOS to exact copy. During testing my computer keeps freezing having to hit the reset button. I do notice the core temperature going up to 85c. Not sure what the issue might be and maybe experts here can help me figure this out.

Here is my system...

i5-2500k 3.30GHZ
Asus P8P67 pro
GSkill DDR3 1600 8GB
Nuctua NH-D14
Antec Earthwatts 650


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solafive*
> 
> Hi, new to the overclocking deal and I followed this thread in setting my BIOS to exact copy. During testing my computer keeps freezing having to hit the reset button. I do notice the core temperature going up to 85c. Not sure what the issue might be and maybe experts here can help me figure this out.
> 
> Here is my system...
> 
> i5-2500k 3.30GHZ
> Asus P8P67 pro
> GSkill DDR3 1600 8GB
> Nuctua NH-D14
> Antec Earthwatts 650


Setting it exactly the same is not the way to do it; this is a guide, nothing more. You have to experiment because no two parts are perfectly the same. Some require more voltage, others require less. Some suck at overclocking, some don't. The same goes for motherboards, memory, etc.: no two parts are perfectly identical. This is why it's called "the silicone lottery".

So, now that you've copied the settings exactly, it's time for you to play around until you get things working *for your system*. High temps probably means that the voltage is way too high. So, start there. I mean, no one, and I mean NO one can just copy someone's settings and be done. If that ever happens, then there's only one reason why: *luck*.


----------



## solafive

Thank you for the info. I will research more into it and tweak the settings.

Question for you, could the high temps be that I need to re-install cpu cooler with new thermal paste? Some were saying that the cpu cooler may not be sitting correctly? What are your thoughts on that?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solafive*
> 
> Thank you for the info. I will research more into it and tweak the settings.
> 
> Question for you, could the high temps be that I need to re-install cpu cooler with new thermal paste? Some were saying that the cpu cooler may not be sitting correctly? What are your thoughts on that?


That depends: what is CPU-Z saying your core voltage is while you're running Prime95? What is the clock speed?


----------



## solafive

I'm running one right now and as it sits, it's reading 1.408v

Temps are running at 75c ish


----------



## solafive

Sorry, clock speed is 4500


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, that voltage is way too high for 4.5.GHz.


----------



## norilink

HI
i would ask a question about upgrade the gpu, my motherboard is ASUS-Z68 Pro Gen3 , other PC component:
- cpu i7 2600K,
- ram G.skill 8 Gig,
- samsung ssd 265 pro hopefully i will buy new gpu 780ti or 880 at the end of this year








is my PC good to upgrade ? wouldn't bottleneck new gpu or i have to upgrade something else ?
thanks in advance


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norilink*
> 
> HI
> i would ask a question about upgrade the gpu, my motherboard is ASUS-Z68 Pro Gen3 , other PC component:
> - cpu i7 2600K,
> - ram G.skill 8 Gig,
> - samsung ssd 265 pro hopefully i will buy new gpu 780ti or 880 at the end of this year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is my PC good to upgrade ? wouldnt buttle nick new gpu or i have to upgrade something else ?
> thanks in advance


This thread is pretty much for discussions about the motherboard. If you want the best chance of getting the correct answer, then you will need to make a new thread. The best place for the new thread would probably be in Graphics Cards > NVIDIA: http://www.overclock.net/f/69/nvidia

My belief is that you won't have any bottleneck (the word refers to the skinny part of a bottle).


----------



## norilink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> This thread is pretty much for discussions about the motherboard. If you want the best chance of getting the correct answer, then you will need to make a new thread. The best place for the new thread would probably be in Graphics Cards > NVIDIA: http://www.overclock.net/f/69/nvidia
> 
> My belief is that you won't have any bottleneck (the word refers to the skinny part of a bottle).


thanks for correction


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norilink*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> This thread is pretty much for discussions about the motherboard. If you want the best chance of getting the correct answer, then you will need to make a new thread. The best place for the new thread would probably be in Graphics Cards > NVIDIA: http://www.overclock.net/f/69/nvidia
> 
> My belief is that you won't have any bottleneck (the word refers to the skinny part of a bottle).
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for correction
Click to expand...

You're welcome!


----------



## AdvanSuper

I've seen various posts in here regarding my issue, but no solid solution. I'm having an issue in which my keyboard and mouse drop out constantly whether they're plugged into USB 3.0 or 2.0 directly off the MOBO. This has been happening a lot more frequently and everything has been stable for over 2 years now. It will only happen with the keyboard and mouse though, even after swapping the keyboard for another it repeats itself. Everything else runs fine as it has since putting it together Jan 2012. I initially thought it was just an issue with my G110, but swapping the keyboard proved that was not it only thing I have not swapped is the mouse since it was plugged directly into the keyboard, so I assumed that was the culprit.


----------



## BLAMM0

My keyboard didn't like it being connected to a USB3.0 port, everything looks fine with a 2.0, did you try it?


----------



## chicobawa

Hello guys, I need your help. I have a p8z68-v PRO motherboard with windows 8.1 installed. im trying to install drivers but i cant.
i cant find my display adapter in device manager. and when i try to install my amd graphics card driver, it fails.
i really dont know what im doing or what questions i should ask. im just trying to install my AMD Radeon R9 270x video card.
i think i CAN install windows 8.1 using my motherboard but it cant install the drivers needed to run it properly.

Please reply asap... im thinking of downgrading to windows 7 if my motherboard really isn't windows 8.1 compatible.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chicobawa*
> 
> Hello guys, I need your help. I have a p8z68-v PRO motherboard with windows 8.1 installed. im trying to install drivers but i cant.
> i cant find my display adapter in device manager. and when i try to install my amd graphics card driver, it fails.
> i really dont know what im doing or what questions i should ask. im just trying to install my AMD Radeon R9 270x video card.
> i think i CAN install windows 8.1 using my motherboard but it cant install the drivers needed to run it properly.
> 
> Please reply asap... im thinking of downgrading to windows 7 if my motherboard really isn't windows 8.1 compatible.


Windows 8.1 isn't all that better than Windows 7. But honestly does AMD cards have drivers for for Windows 8.1?

What have you tried so far?


----------



## chika7ilo

Can someone tell me what for are the three pins (amrked on the picture, red circle) near the CPU fan connector on the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe MBO. And can i connect two fans with PWM on the CPU connector with a Y splitter for push pull air cooling.
Thanks.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chika7ilo*
> 
> Can someone tell me what for are the three pins (amrked on the picture, red circle) near the CPU fan connector on the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe MBO. And can i connect two fans with PWM on the CPU connector with a Y splitter for push pull air cooling.
> Thanks.


For the second question: yes.


----------



## chika7ilo

Thanks for the quick answer, i assumed that i could connect two fans, but wanted to go for sure.
For the first question i have even contacted Asus support but still no answer, i did not know that Asus support was so bad.
So the question is still stands , what are the three pins for.


----------



## BLAMM0

Anything about those pins in the manual ?


----------



## chika7ilo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> Anything about those pins in the manual ?


I could not find nothing in the manual.


----------



## chika7ilo

Contacted Asus support once again, since it has passed eight days from the first mail and still no answer.
Ether they don't wanna answer the question or is the support really so bad.


----------



## chika7ilo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chika7ilo*
> 
> Contacted Asus support once again, since it has passed eight days from the first mail and still no answer.
> Ether they don't wanna answer the question or is the support really so bad.


Got the answer this morning.

_Dear Sirs,
Sorry pending. The pins in the picture are for internal use ASUS development team motherboards. Consequently no practical value to the end user._


----------



## burtzz

Hey guys,

I have an Asus P8z68 pro gen3 with the latest bios. And Windows 8.1 installed in UEFI mode.

I got an issue while booting my PC.
I'm using an Sapphire r9 290 tri-x, which has a dual bios.
I've been using the legacy bios it seems.

I changed the bios switch to the UEFI version and tried to boot my PC, but it doesn't start.
I only get a black screen, not even reaching the motherboard "beep".

Any idea why this happen?

ty


----------



## pc-illiterate

what windows are you on burtzz?


----------



## kizwan

290 Tri-X don't have that button, it have switch instead (one side legacy & the other side UEFI). I think @burtzz need to set in the BIOS, under CSM section. Basically tell the BIOS to boot with UEFI for the GPU.


----------



## burtzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 290 Tri-X don't have that button, it have switch instead (one side legacy & the other side UEFI). I think @burtzz need to set in the BIOS, under CSM section. Basically tell the BIOS to boot with UEFI for the GPU.


Yes, its a switch.
I'm with windows 8.1

Are you talking about this option in bios?
https://communities.vmware.com/servlet/JiveServlet/showImage/2-2024945-19582/DSCF5295.JPG
I don't have a CSM option, I just have those options as you can see on the picture.

As shown on the image I got the same option selected, EFI compatible rom.

Could it be the problem?
As I just read;
EFI is different from UEFI, EFI is the previous standard and its the one supported by this motherboard.
Secure boot is not supported I think.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burtzz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 290 Tri-X don't have that button, it have switch instead (one side legacy & the other side UEFI). I think @burtzz need to set in the BIOS, under CSM section. Basically tell the BIOS to boot with UEFI for the GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, its a switch.
> I'm with windows 8.1
> 
> Are you talking about this option in bios?
> https://communities.vmware.com/servlet/JiveServlet/showImage/2-2024945-19582/DSCF5295.JPG
> I don't have a CSM option, I just have those options as you can see on the picture.
> 
> As shown on the image I got the same option selected, EFI compatible rom.
> 
> Could it be the problem?
> As I just read;
> EFI is different from UEFI, EFI is the previous standard and its the one supported by this motherboard.
> Secure boot is not supported I think.
Click to expand...

No, not that option. I forgot to check your motherboard. Your motherboard doesn't support Secure Boot. I was thinking something else when I suggest look for CSM options. CSM options allowed you to use legacy or UEFI rom for the devices.

About "EFI", actually your motherboard doesn't use that "EFI". Your motherboard have UEFI BIOS. The word used can be confusing but I can assure you, manufacturer use UEFI BIOS in PC.


----------



## burtzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> No, not that option. I forgot to check your motherboard. Your motherboard doesn't support Secure Boot. I was thinking something else when I suggest look for CSM options. CSM options allowed you to use legacy or UEFI rom for the devices.
> 
> About "EFI", actually your motherboard doesn't use that "EFI". Your motherboard have UEFI BIOS. The word used can be confusing but I can assure you, manufacturer use UEFI BIOS in PC.


Ok, so it means that without secure boot suport I cannot boot with the UEFI bios selected on my r9 290?

Edit: I just noticed there's a big red led coming from the card when trying to boot from uefi bios.
I can't find any info about a red led on this particular card


----------



## texas_nightowl

Can anyone help me out with controlling fans on a P8Z68-V? I've been hanging out in the water cooling forum because I have a Corsair H60. However, I'm looking at replacing multiple fans, not just the rad fan and I am confused about controlling them. The most often recommended fan is of course Scythe Gentle Typhoon and since there are some currently in stock, I am considering buying. But, they are 3 pin fans (AP-15).

Now, my understanding of my board buy be flawed, but what I think I know is:

CPU_FAN / CPU_FAN_OPT control only via PWM. So a 3-pin fan connected here would run at 100%, correct?
PWR_FAN1 / PWR_FAN2 have no control, PWM or voltage, so any fan connected here runs at 100%. (My H60 pump is currently connected to PWR_FAN1 for this reason.)
CHA_FAN / CHA_FAN2 are the only headers that allow voltage control (as well as PWM), so if I want to control a 3-pin fan, they need to connect here?
If I am not understanding that correctly, please do let me know.

Now, I'm looking at needing to setup 4 fans. 2 front intake, 1 on the H60 rad (pushing air thru to exhaust), 1 elsewhere (could be intake or exhaust depending on temps...probably intake).

That's 4 fans for 2 headers (CHA_FAN / CHA_FAN2) Is there a 3-pin splitter or Y cable that would allow me to place 2 fans per header?

Or do I run 2 of the fans at 100% on other headers and only have control of 2 fans?

Or do I just forget these magical GT AP-15's and get some PWM fans?

I don't want to mess with a dedicated fan controller. Seems overkill for just 4 fans...

Thanks for any help.


----------



## pc-illiterate

you can use a y-splitter and use the 2 chassis fan headers which are only voltage control.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you can use a y-splitter and use the 2 chassis fan headers which are only voltage control.


Thank you. So my basic understanding of the board was correct?

One question about CHA_FAN header...since it is 4-pin, will it still do voltage control if a 3-pin fan is connected? CHA_FAN2 is a 3-pin header so it is OK.


----------



## pc-illiterate

with that motherboard, and most others, all chassis fan headers are ONLY voltage control. the only pwm header is the cpu fan header.


----------



## texas_nightowl

I do have one more question...since it effects whether I order a 2 fan splitter or 3 fan splitter...how much power draw is supported by the CHA_FAN and CHA_FAN2 headers? I looked thru the manual and only found a reference to the CPU_FAN header (1 amp / 12 watts). Assuming I go with the AP-15's which is my current plan...can I run 3 off a single header?


----------



## pc-illiterate

i personally wouldnt run more than 2 fans off a single header. the amp draw on an ap-15 is low but the start-up draw is insanely high.


----------



## Silly Hats

Ok So I have an overwhelming issue I need help with.





my 2nd gpu WILL NOT go above 35c. I feel like it is not working, even in benchmark tests. Nothing,


----------



## Bear Man

is it time to move on from the P8Z68-V Pro/Gen 3 mobo to the X99 like the Deluxe or the Rampage V Extreme?

cheers


----------



## BLAMM0

What would be the gains ? I currently have the same board, planning on a video upgrade or a bigger ssd, maybe a whole cpu+ram+mb combo, but not soon for this one


----------



## pc-illiterate

the cost of ddr4 ram alone should be enough to cause pause to think on the x99 chipset. all memory has gotten expensive but the price of ddr4 is just, wow.


----------



## HaZarD SFD

Gelid makes a 1-4 splitter. It also has a Molex connector to compensate for the power draw.

I run a CM Hyper 212. I have the PWM control the 2x 120mm and the 1x 140mm fans so that they all force air out the back of the case at the same speed. Its a cheap option to control 3 fans from the CPU_FAN header.



http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=63


----------



## Cosworth

If I had known this club was here I'd have joined when I built this rig but as it stands I'm no longer eligible to join after a disagreement between a spare mouse and my board cause my mouse to blow and the board to follow the slow path to burn out city. It finally burnt out a couple of months ago and I've replaced it with an ASRock Z77 Extreme 11. I do still miss the old board as up until that point it had been completely reliable one of the best boards I had owned, it was the ASUS P8P67 Pro B3 Rev


----------



## polynomialc

just checked out asus site, shocked to find a new bios for this mobo

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8Z68V_PROGEN3/HelpDesk_Download/

P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 BIOS 3703
Improve system stability.

anyone tried it out? i just updated it, so far its all working good.


----------



## Bear Man

the new BIOS wasn't there last week when I checked

I wonder what sort of stability issues it fixes?


----------



## polynomialc

not sure, but it looks good that asus supports a product this long. Ive had this board for so many years.. and its still working great. Had zero stability issues, with previous bios, would be nice if they went into more detail


----------



## Bear Man

I just updated my BIOS to 3703 with no probs. most of the BIOS settings were intact but all the saved OC profiles were gone. it didn't matter much to me as I put in my 2500K back in the other day as I am selling the 3570K so I can put it towards ram for my X99-Deluxe mobo, then I can sell this mobo, CPU & ram







got a nice easy OC of 4.5, I tried 4.6 but the vCore hit 1.48 a couple of times, 4.5 is OK to me


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polynomialc*
> 
> not sure, but it looks good that asus supports a product this long. Ive had this board for so many years.. and its still working great. Had zero stability issues, with previous bios, would be nice if they went into more detail


It's common for ASUS to not provide detailed changelogs. For what its worth, all OROMs except for the RAID ORON (Intel GOP, LAN PXE, Intel GOP) in v3703 are already updated.

I hope that helps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear Man*
> 
> I just updated my BIOS to 3703 with no probs. most of the BIOS settings were intact but all the saved OC profiles were gone. it didn't matter much to me as I put in my 2500K back in the other day as I am selling the 3570K so I can put it towards ram for my X99-Deluxe mobo, then I can sell this mobo, CPU & ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got a nice easy OC of 4.5, I tried 4.6 but the vCore hit 1.48 a couple of times, 4.5 is OK to me


When you upgrade BIOSes, it's always recommended to restore to factory/optimized defaults (clear NVRAM) before AND after flashing. This prevents issues during the upgrade process.

SUDE NOTE: I'm very disappointed with ASUS though because they did not release the same BIOS for the non-pro version of that board (that's the one I use). I guess that's marketing coming into play.


----------



## Bear Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> When you upgrade BIOSes, it's always recommended to restore to factory/optimized defaults (clear NVRAM) before AND after flashing. This prevents issues during the upgrade process.
> 
> SIDE NOTE: I'm very disappointed with ASUS though because they did not release the same BIOS for the non-pro version of that board (that's the one I use). I guess that's marketing coming into play.


I'll have to remember that, thanks

wasn't there someone who modded BIOSes, he may be doing your model (Ket, I think his name is)

on a side note, talking about BIOSes, I will have to update my BIOS on the X99-Deluxe and I was wondering if I should update the BIOS before installing the OS? also, can I update the BIOS without ram, or won't the comp boot into the BIOS without it? it will take me a few weeks to get ram & I got my new mobo & CPU yesterday


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear Man*
> 
> I'll have to remember that, thanks
> 
> wasn't there someone who modded BIOSes, he may be doing your model (Ket, I think his name is)
> 
> on a side note, talking about BIOSes, I will have to update my BIOS on the X99-Deluxe and I was wondering if I should update the BIOS before installing the OS? also, can I update the BIOS without ram, or won't the comp boot into the BIOS without it? it will take me a few weeks to get ram & I got my new mobo & CPU yesterday


Glad I could be of help.

Are you talking about Garikfox who modifies the Intel RAID OROM of BIOSes?

No, RAM is needed to get past POST to update your BIOS UNLESS you have the ASUS USB Flashback feature wherein you just need the PSU to do a BIOS flash


----------



## Bear Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are you talking about Garikfox who modifies the Intel RAID OROM of BIOSes?
> 
> No, RAM is needed to get past POST to update your BIOS UNLESS you have the ASUS USB Flashback feature wherein you just need the PSU to do a BIOS flash


Ket or as I did a Google search, Ketxxx, he modded BIOSes for P5Qpro moboes & others https://www.google.com.au/search?q=ket&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=BRalVK_IMefBmAWsyoLgDg#q=ket+modded+bios&start=0 he has BIOS running through his veins, I think he has retired or something as he has no recent activity. maybe there is someone else who mods BIOSes now. maybe ASUS will release a non Pro version soon. I still wonder what the latest BIOS does?

no ram, no boot, bummer. plenty of wallabies where I live, no rams thou







I will just have to wait a few weeks; I just have to drink some beer while I wait







cheers


----------



## CJAPeterborough

I too have just updated to the 3703 on the Pro/Gen 3....however it is very easy to mod your own bios using the tools at the links below.

http://www.win-raid.com/t154f16-Tool-quot-UEFI-BIOS-Updater-quot-UBU.html

http://www.win-raid.com/t455f16-Guide-How-to-flash-a-modded-ASUS-or-ASRock-UEFI-BIOS.html

Asus is a bit tricky due to write protect settings and you have to use the biosflashback but I have successfully modded my Z77 Sabertooth this way


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CJAPeterborough*
> 
> I too have just updated to the 3703 on the Pro/Gen 3....however it is very easy to mod your own bios using the tools at the links below.
> 
> http://www.win-raid.com/t154f16-Tool-quot-UEFI-BIOS-Updater-quot-UBU.html
> 
> http://www.win-raid.com/t455f16-Guide-How-to-flash-a-modded-ASUS-or-ASRock-UEFI-BIOS.html
> 
> Asus is a bit tricky due to write protect settings and you have to use the biosflashback but I have successfully modded my Z77 Sabertooth this way


That's for just updating the OROMs and EFIs in the BIOS. If ASUS did something to "improve stability" on the new 3703 BIOS then we wouldn't have that improvement if we flash an old (but modified with the UBU tool) BIOS.


----------



## hardcook

Does anyone have any benchmark results for SSDs on the Marvel 6Gb controllers? I just installed two SSD with raid 0 (stripped) and recieced results much lower then the default stated for the drives even without raid. The speeds of one of these drives is up to 490 MB/s Sequential Read and up to 450 MB/s Sequential Write. However, I am getting around 380 MB/s Sequential Read and up to 145 MB/s Sequential Write AFTER raid 0 setup.



After benchmarking the drives individually, the results are very much the same:


----------



## pc-illiterate

out of curiosity, did you set them up in raid through windows? also, it is striped not stripped. just so ya know...


----------



## hardcook

I tried it a few different ways:

- Through native Marvel Ctr-M interface during POST.
- Through Windows
- Via an option in BIOS that allows you to configure SATA6g_e1/e2 for "speed mode" or something like that in the drive xpert mode menu which basically also creates a raid 0 for the marvel connected drives

The results from all were basically the same. .


----------



## pc-illiterate

cook, i found this on an intel forum. its a quoted post but i'll link the forum also.

4. Re: Marvell (RAID) SATA 6 Gb
Sunfox Acolyte
Sunfox Mar 11, 2011 2:53 AM (in response to fgaullier)

May I inquire why you actually want to use the Marvell controller? I can't see any good reason for it - your HDs may have an SATA3 interface, but they do not in any way benefit from using it.
The Marvell controller is generally crummy for anything beyond additional sequential transfer capability on single SSD drives versus SATA2... and the reduction in other performance areas generally makes up for it. *The Marvell can't even sustain full SATA3 speeds on a single port, never mind two, since it's only connected via a single PCIe lane, which means it maxes out at ~350MB/sec or so.*
If your concern was lack of trim for your SSD when hooked up to the controller in RAID mode, then Intel's new drivers now pass trim to SSDs that are on the RAID controller, but not part of a RAID array.

https://communities.intel.com/message/116579

that post tells why your raid is so slow.


----------



## hardcook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> cook, i found this on an intel forum. its a quoted post but i'll link the forum also.
> 
> 4. Re: Marvell (RAID) SATA 6 Gb
> Sunfox Acolyte
> Sunfox Mar 11, 2011 2:53 AM (in response to fgaullier)
> 
> May I inquire why you actually want to use the Marvell controller? I can't see any good reason for it - your HDs may have an SATA3 interface, but they do not in any way benefit from using it.
> The Marvell controller is generally crummy for anything beyond additional sequential transfer capability on single SSD drives versus SATA2... and the reduction in other performance areas generally makes up for it. *The Marvell can't even sustain full SATA3 speeds on a single port, never mind two, since it's only connected via a single PCIe lane, which means it maxes out at ~350MB/sec or so.*
> If your concern was lack of trim for your SSD when hooked up to the controller in RAID mode, then Intel's new drivers now pass trim to SSDs that are on the RAID controller, but not part of a RAID array.
> 
> https://communities.intel.com/message/116579
> 
> that post tells why your raid is so slow.


Thanks, this makes sense now!

Wow, does this mean I would get better results from a Raid 0 on two regular Intel SATA 3Gb/s (2 x 300MB/s speed = 600Mb/s total if striped) than two Marvel SATA 6Gb/s (PCIe lane max ~350MB/sec)?

If so, I guess I will go ahead and take off my two Raid 1 WD Green HDD's from the two 3Gb/s connections and put them on the Marvel since they wont reach 350MB/s anyway... and move the two SSD's tot he Intel 3GB/s.

BTW, I know I have two Intel SATA 6GB/s slots available but they are already used for my OS.


----------



## pc-illiterate

im one of the people who believe you cant tell a difference between 3g and 6g raided ssd speeds. an ssd is already fast. raided they are even faster. do you think you will be able to tell the difference between both speeds? maybe on a large file but it wont matter in my opinion.


----------



## hardcook

When opening files, I probably wont notice the difference. However, when I search though large folders of PDF files for some text, I'm hoping it would help me find what I need faster.

Anyway..... MUCH better on intel at 3Gb/s:


----------



## alw71

I have just moved my PC to my girlfriends in a different country for 2 months as I cant do without my PC fix and Ive installed it all in a new case. I brought all the parts rather than my massive 600T but now I am having trouble with the memory frequency.
Before I go any further I will tell you that I left my IO sheild on the back of my other case and was wondering could this affect the frequency somehow? Maybe some kind of static charge or short?
Now in the bios of (P8Z68 V pro) it was showing 1333 mhz when Id already in the past set it to xmp. Ive changed it back to xmp and its showing 1600 mhz as it should but when I load windows I run Speccy and cpuz and its onlz showing 799.9 -800.01 mhz (fluctuating). Im at a loss with what to do. Any Ideas?
P.s could the cpu be damaged or the seating on the board? I thought when I installed the cpu that the pins werent all perfectly lying to the side as they do. I had wrapped it up really really well in bubble wrap so maybe its just my imagination.
Help!!


----------



## Bear Man

the P8Z68 runs ram in dual channel so 800x2=1600, so that is fine; cheer up.

can you get another I/O plate from somewhere else like eBay?


----------



## alw71

Thanks alot for that! You saved me from dismantleing the whole thing again! How could you tell I was distressed?








I will try and find an IO shield too, maybe by messaging Asus if not Ebay etc. Thanks again!


----------



## Bear Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alw71*
> 
> How could you tell I was distressed?


new country, same old girlfriend (just joking) & the old faithful comp; I would be distressed too. the world can fall around me, just as long as it wasn't on my comp


----------



## prescotter

It runs DDR means Double Data Rate = DDR3-1600 (800Mhz)

Its not because of the dual channel, otherwhise Quad Channel would magicly run it at DDR3-3200?


----------



## alw71

Cheers dudes! I was just worried when i saw a few dodgy pins on my board wheer i seat he cpu and thought that could have something to do with it. New country same old dody gf your right







but you should see all the other women here man!! Wow!


----------



## Bear Man

close enough after a few beers


----------



## Daffie82

Question :

I want to make Wake-On-Lan work on my Windows 7 Enterprise.
But I am not able to so far








Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 is my board and I want to enable it on my Intel LAN.
I have set in BIOS PCI and PCI-E to ENABLED. Is there something else in BIOS I should change? Maybe some power state settings?
In the Intel LAN card properties I have everything relate to Wake-On-Lan enabled.
Thanks for the help


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Question :
> 
> I want to make Wake-On-Lan work on my Windows 7 Enterprise.
> But I am not able to so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 is my board and I want to enable it on my Intel LAN.
> I have set in BIOS PCI and PCI-E to ENABLED. Is there something else in BIOS I should change? Maybe some power state settings?
> In the Intel LAN card properties I have everything relate to Wake-On-Lan enabled.
> Thanks for the help


Have you set from BIOS Wake On Lan setting enabled too?


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Have you set from BIOS Wake On Lan setting enabled too?


Only settings I have in BIOS related to this is Wake from PCI/PCI-E
Both are enabled.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Only settings I have in BIOS related to this is Wake from PCI/PCI-E
> Both are enabled.


Oh, I remember wrong. I couldnt find any other option either. Are you sure that problem is on mobo? You also could try to put all the power on settings on, if it would help, then later on eliminate useless ones.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Oh, I remember wrong. I couldnt find any other option either. Are you sure that problem is on mobo? You also could try to put all the power on settings on, if it would help, then later on eliminate useless ones.


Those 2 options are about the only ones I can enable.
Do you see any other power on settings?


----------



## MooMoo

On my mobo I have Power on:
- PS/2 Keyboard
- PS/2 Mouse
- PCI
- PCI-E
- Ring
- RTC

No idea what that RTC does.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> On my mobo I have Power on:
> - PS/2 Keyboard
> - PS/2 Mouse
> - PCI
> - PCI-E
> - Ring
> - RTC
> 
> No idea what that RTC does.


I think that is to clear/reset the CMOS? My board is the EVO so I am not too certain.


----------



## pc-illiterate

rtc is real time clock. its for a power on alarm.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Real-time_clock_alarm
https://www.google.com/search?q=bios+power+on+rtc&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&channel=sb#rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&channel=sb&q=what+is+bios+power+on+rtc


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> On my mobo I have Power on:
> - PS/2 Keyboard
> - PS/2 Mouse
> - PCI
> - PCI-E
> - Ring
> - RTC
> 
> No idea what that RTC does.


I dont have power on Ring.
I do have power on RTC, but like already said it is for wake on alarm.
Anyway I think the problem lies with my ISP which has a build-in router on the modem. Port forwarding is possible on it and I checked that the needed ports are open. But I think the problem lies somewhere else.
No matter what I do I can not wake the PC with an app on my windows phone.
Tried both ''Wake on Lan'' and ''PC remote Pro''


----------



## kizwan

It should be called "Wake On Lan" in the BIOS, not other name. If you can't find it in the BIOS, try enabled WOL in the driver; go to Device Manager, find network adapter & open properties. Find Wake On Lan function & enable it. Put your computer to sleep/hibernate then test.


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It should be called "Wake On Lan" in the BIOS, not other name. If you can't find it in the BIOS, try enabled WOL in the driver; go to Device Manager, find network adapter & open properties. Find Wake On Lan function & enable it. Put your computer to sleep/hibernate then test.


Yep, it is enabled in driver settings in Device Manager.
But no go unfortunately


----------



## jeffreywhunter

Looking forward to the groups info...


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Guys, there is an option in bios called "Serial Port Configiration" -- What must be and what is it? There are 4 options, which one I've to choose?


----------



## Daffie82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daffie82*
> 
> Yep, it is enabled in driver settings in Device Manager.
> But no go unfortunately


problem solved, was some kind of setting in LAN driver settings, no idea which one because I changed quite alot of them.


----------



## norilink

can i control cpu fan speed from bios ?








i have EVGA Superclock cpu cooler its fan works at full speed that make high noise level even though no loads


----------



## pc-illiterate

cpu fan speed control is only pwm capable. if not a pwm fan, fan will run at 100% as you found out.


----------



## norcon6

Initial validation...


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Guys, there is an option in bios called "Serial Port Configiration" -- What must be and what is it? There are 4 options, which one I've to choose?


Disabled. Unless you are using old school COM port extra socket plugged into mainboard.


----------



## raisethe3

For some reason I know its late, but:



May I join?


----------



## burlaphite

Old thread + not sure if this is the right section but anyways

Had my p8z68 about 4 years now, was messing around with cable routing today and noticed some sort of liquid on part of the board.



Tried to wipe it and it just smeared, seems to be clear liquid. Could have been something I've spilled but I'm unsure if it could be the capacitor just above leaking (it does seem to be following gravity).

Any insight greatly appreciated









p.s. i'm using it right now and am not on fire yet so maybe it's fine


----------



## raisethe3

^^^From what I can tell in the picture, its nothing major. You state that you're using it now and have not approached any problems? If so, then you're good.


----------



## Catscratch

Odd, could be flux residue but that kinda thing is usually on the back of the motherboards or any boards. My P8P67 EVO has it all over on the back. But yours look a bit different, most flux residue look more dirtier. If the mobo works fine, you can leave it alone, if it's from the cap, you need to inspect more.

Example, z68 mobo


----------



## SkyeHack

__
https://flic.kr/p/wpJeji


----------



## Celcius

edit: wrong thread


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyeHack*
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/wpJeji


Very very nice! Wish I were half that good at cable management!


----------



## RushFudge

Sorry for the necro but.. We will not get driver support for Windows 10 right?


----------



## pc-illiterate

i certainly hope we get 'some' support. might be as simple as generic drivers also. im looking forward to dx12 but not win10...


----------



## RushFudge

On Windows 8.1, there is no bluetooth driver.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushFudge*
> 
> On Windows 8.1, there is no bluetooth driver.


If you can't find one at Asus, you can try station-drivers.

Win 10 should have all the drivers you need by default, even bluetooth software+driver. Likely only Intel MEI not included. If you want to install (latest) drivers anyway, you can check at Intel or station-drivers.


----------



## RushFudge

Thanks for the info! I was always looking at the manufacturers website for the drivers and I never use driver's pack because reasons. I just search on Google for the bluetooth's device ID and found the driver for Win 8.1.


----------



## BLAMM0

Hi all, are my usb ports going nuts or is it the OS? Whenever I plug my phone or an external optical drive to the USB 3.0ports, they dont function correctly... It's been a while, first I thought the devices are bad, but now I started doubting...
P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 Win 8.1 64bit.


----------



## gt3911

Hey,

I just did my first OS re-install after the original installation of this board a good few years ago.

Does anyone know of a better realtek driver than the one listed on the driver site? I seem to have a vague memory of using a different one but can't remember where or what. I do know my optical audio is not working anymore though









How are you Win10ers getting along?


----------



## TwoCables

Realtek has a website and you can download drivers from it.


----------



## mrsmiles

anyone know if the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe supports VT-d?


----------



## Zanzar

guys, i have a problem with my P8P67 Rev.3.0. I wanted to upgrade my pc with a seagate sshd ST2000DX001 but it didnt work. its not detected. i tried two disks and none worked. any known issues with sshd disks on this motherboard? i have latest bios installed.


----------



## TwoCables

None detected in the BIOS, or in Windows?


----------



## Zanzar

the first was detected sometimes in bios but never in windows.
the second i got after i returned the first one, never showed up in bios or windows. i have 2 other hdds and one ssd in the system. tried the sshd with cables and ports of all the other disks.

if i connect it via usb adapter, i see the disk in windows but when i try to initialize it with mbr or gpt, i only get a CRC error.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zanzar*
> 
> the first was detected sometimes in bios but never in windows.
> the second i got after i returned the first one, never showed up in bios or windows. i have 2 other hdds and one ssd in the system. tried the sshd with cables and ports of all the other disks.
> 
> if i connect it via usb adapter, i see the disk in windows but when i try to initialize it with mbr or gpt, i only get a CRC error.


I might be a bit off the tracks on this one, but is it Windows 8.1/10? Or is it Windows 7?

*Edit:* I have to log out, but what I was thinking of is this: if it's Windows 8.1/10, then you might need to choose Restart from within Windows due to the way that Windows shuts down (choosing Restart accomplishes what Shut Down doesn't, believe it or not). If that's not it, then I would say that this is over my head.

You see, Shut Down in Windows 8.1 is more like a Hibernation and it doesn't actually shut down Windows. So, I'm assuming that Windows 10 does it too.


----------



## Zanzar

well i tried it on a windows 7 pc and on a windows 8.1 pc. didnt work.
however a third pc (hp prodesk 490 g2) said right after the startup that there is a disk error and i should run diagnostic. but at diagnostic it just freezes.
i also tried seatools boot cd but the tool doesnt find the disk.
so i guess i am really unlucky with 2 damaged disk and returned the second one an hour ago.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrsmiles*
> 
> anyone know if the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe supports VT-d?


I don't have the motherboard but z68 chipset does support VT-d. However this doesn't mean P8Z68 Deluxe motherboard support it. I did take quick look in the BIOS I downloaded from Asus website & it does contain VT-d string in it. However this doesn't mean you have control over this setting. Too bad you have 3570k which doesn't support VT-d. If you can borrow 3570 from somewhere, you can see whether VT-d setting show up in the BIOS or not.

BTW, why do you want use VT-d?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zanzar*
> 
> well i tried it on a windows 7 pc and on a windows 8.1 pc. didnt work.
> however a third pc (hp prodesk 490 g2) said right after the startup that there is a disk error and i should run diagnostic. but at diagnostic it just freezes.
> i also tried seatools boot cd but the tool doesnt find the disk.
> so i guess i am really unlucky with 2 damaged disk and returned the second one an hour ago.


Aw crap. :/


----------



## caenlen

How many VRM's surround the CPU on the Asus Z68 Deluxe motherboard? I am looking at pictures and am not seeing any of the black squares.

Linustechtips said if your motherboard has 4 or less of the tiny black squares surround your cpu, the phase control is lower and its a lower quality board, the higher the better.

I have the Asus Z68 deluxe, but am not seeing the black squares anywhere near cpu... is this why its called Digi+ VRM? they aren't traditionally located in same places?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Here go bud

http://www.overclock.net/t/1042186/asus-z68-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-4-22#post_13874501

*EDIT* - sorry had the wrong link. i didnt realize sin didnt really get z68 boards in there...


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, the P8Z68 Deluxe has a 12+4 phase design, which should be expected because it's a high-end board (this board is a bit of a badass). The kind of low-quality board that Linus was talking about is like the kind that cost like $50. Y'know?


----------



## norilink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*
> 
> I've seen various posts in here regarding my issue, but no solid solution. I'm having an issue in which my keyboard and mouse drop out constantly whether they're plugged into USB 3.0 or 2.0 directly off the MOBO. This has been happening a lot more frequently and everything has been stable for over 2 years now. It will only happen with the keyboard and mouse though, even after swapping the keyboard for another it repeats itself. Everything else runs fine as it has since putting it together Jan 2012. I initially thought it was just an issue with my G110, but swapping the keyboard proved that was not it only thing I have not swapped is the mouse since it was plugged directly into the keyboard, so I assumed that was the culprit.


i have the same issue as this guy !!!








anyone got the solution pls ???


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norilink*
> 
> i have the same issue as this guy !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone got the solution pls ???


It sort of just went away after a while. Either that or I just stopped using certain ports for my devices I honestly don't remember.


----------



## norilink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*
> 
> It sort of just went away after a while. Either that or I just stopped using certain ports for my devices I honestly don't remember.


i have downgrade the BIOS and stopping bluetooth in the BIOS, hope this help solving this annoying thing
thanks 4 replay


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norilink*
> 
> i have downgrade the BIOS and stopping bluetooth in the BIOS, hope this help solving this annoying thing
> thanks 4 replay


I had the same problem once on my Z68 system. Turns out the ram was running too high of a frequency and had to drop it from 2133 to 1600mhz. Not like memory frequency has much performance impact on p67 or Z68 systems anyhow.


----------



## pc-illiterate

actually its the frequency that matters not the latencies on sb.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> actually its the frequency that matters not the latencies on sb.


I read as far as Z68 goes the frequencies don't matter much. Look it up.


----------



## pc-illiterate

yep, it was mainly the programs being used. since i of course cant remember where i read it 4 years ago, i'll change my stand. i wish i remembered what i read where about what...


----------



## norilink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> I had the same problem once on my Z68 system. Turns out the ram was running too high of a frequency and had to drop it from 2133 to 1600mhz. Not like memory frequency has much performance impact on p67 or Z68 systems anyhow.


my problem still exist , my RAM max frequency 1600 hz
please help !!!


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norilink*
> 
> my problem still exist , my RAM max frequency 1600 hz
> please help !!!


Slow down, what's the problem? Can't boot into Windows? System unstable after OC? What is it?


----------



## norilink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> Slow down, what's the problem? Can't boot into Windows? System unstable after OC? What is it?


my mouse randomly drops for less than second ! that happens usually while browsing or switch between chrome and desktop


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norilink*
> 
> my mouse randomly drops for less than second ! that happens usually while browsing or switch between chrome and desktop


What are using? USB Wireless Mouse? If so, have you tried a different port? Check the battery? Maybe its low?


----------



## norilink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> What are using? USB Wireless Mouse? If so, have you tried a different port? Check the battery? Maybe its low?


i just have used logitech G400 wired mouse all upper rear usb ports drops while front usb ports works flawlessly


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norilink*
> 
> i just have used logitech G400 wired mouse all upper rear usb ports drops while front usb ports works flawlessly


Have you tried with using a different mouse to see if the problem persist? Perhaps it could be faulty?


----------



## sniperslayer

hey Guys, i've got the P8Z68-V pro board, just recently upgraded my video card to the R9 390 and have been having some reliability issues on boot up etc.

most guys who have troubleshot the problem seem to go to updating the BIOS as a fix. However, when i go to the ASUS website, the only available updates/software are for windows 8.1 64 bit?

currently on 10 so not sure if it's worth the risk to try and use the 8.1 update? anyone have an answer for this? im pretty sure my bios has not been updated since building the computer 2.5/3 years ago


----------



## sniperslayer

Ttt if anyone has upgraded the bios while running windows 10


----------



## Ex0duS5150

Just wanted to Check in as its been a year since my last post I think.. I upgraded my Ram to 16 [email protected] and was having stability issues @4.7Ghz until I upped the VCCIO voltage to 1.175.. What lead me to this conclusion? Well I had remembered I read somewhere in these forums that adjusting this has something to do with the memory controller on the chip so I gave it a shot. I can say I am again 10Hrs Prime stable on the blend setting..

SLI'ed 780s @1240Mhz have kept this old rig in the game more than adequately.. Just Finished BO's III campaign at maxxed settings.. Ok volumetric lighting was off and no Extra Textures but everything else was at its maxxed setting..


----------



## Antrenman

Just bought a crapton of parts.

Including an ASUS P8P67

Soon, I'll join you guys.


----------



## Haabo

I guys, just signed up in hope some one here can help me.

I have an Asus p8p67 ws revolution, and recently bought a evga 980 gpu. After installation i get no picture, with a B2 error diagnostic from the motherboard. Switching back to my. Old 6970 works like a charm.

After talking to evga, i was Told to set boot option and csm to legacy in bios, but I cant for the life of me find Those options. I cant find anything about secure boot or any way to turn off uefi witcher. Ive got the latest bios installed for my motherboard, 2105.

I would be extremely appreciative if some one could help me in any way here.


----------



## basilisk

Hi Haabo,

This sounds like the problem I had when I replaced my 460 with a 760 (see post #9059).

I eventually got things to work by changing the BIOS setting "PCI ROM Priority" (under boot options in advanced mode) to "Legacy ROM". This option is not shown in my mobo's manual.

ASUS were no help for me.

I hope this helps you.

Cheers


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ex0duS5150*
> 
> Just wanted to Check in as its been a year since my last post I think.. I upgraded my Ram to 16 [email protected] and was having stability issues @4.7Ghz until I upped the VCCIO voltage to 1.175.. What lead me to this conclusion? Well I had remembered I read somewhere in these forums that adjusting this has something to do with the memory controller on the chip so I gave it a shot. I can say I am again 10Hrs Prime stable on the blend setting..
> 
> SLI'ed 780s @1240Mhz have kept this old rig in the game more than adequately.. Just Finished BO's III campaign at maxxed settings.. Ok volumetric lighting was off and no Extra Textures but everything else was at its maxxed setting..


I never knew who actually mentioned that trick first but that voltage setting is there for a reason right







Many ram manufacturers use that suggestion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antrenman*
> 
> Just bought a crapton of parts.
> 
> Including an ASUS P8P67
> 
> Soon, I'll join you guys.


P8P67 platform is not crap imho







Nonetheless, welcome to the club.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> I never knew who actually mentioned that trick first but that voltage setting is there for a reason right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many ram manufacturers use that suggestion.
> P8P67 platform is not crap imho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nonetheless, welcome to the club.


"crapton" is an expression meaning "a very large amount". The word "ton" is a part of the expression "crapton". Sometimes people will use "crapload" instead.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> "crapton" is an expression meaning "a very large amount". The word "ton" is a part of the expression "crapton". Sometimes people will use "crapload" instead.


Did you see "







"







Anyway, have fun with P8p67 folks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> Did you see "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, have fun with P8p67 folks.


Yes, but I also see that you're from Istanbul and so I didn't know if you were misunderstanding due to differences in slang or what. I also forgot how to read minds. :/


----------



## alw71

Hi, I'm in need of some help!
I've just taken out my H100 radiator and replaced it with a Noctua NH U9S and when I first bootted it it said new cpu detected so I went into the bios and just ran optimised defaults. Now on rebbot its stuck in a loop with a bsod saying SYSTEM THREAD EXCEPTION NOT HANDLED (IASTOR.SYS). Ive taken everything out of the motherbaord and stuck it back in one by one and I'm still getting the same thing. Is there a chance the sink isn't seated correctly? I don't know how but its the only thing I can think of. I've just taken the Cmos battery out while I write this and will put it back in. Whats my best option now.
All hardware was fine before the cooler change btw.


----------



## alw71

As expected


----------



## TwoCables

Hmm. Try making a new thread. This thread isn't active anymore. I'm only here because I'm still subscribed to it.


----------



## alw71

I got it sorted dude. Thanks btw.


----------



## Dassdardly

P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 - Which PCIe slot for x16?

I have a GTX980Ti but I'm not certain which PCIe slot it should be housed in for the best performance. The User Manual and what is printed on the P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 motherboard appear to contradict each other.

The BIOS Version 3802 I flashed after updating the OS from 8.1 to Windows X.

I'm currently using the 980Ti in the Blue Slot (2) as this is the only slot shown supporting PCIe 3.0 x16_1 if using 1 GPU card. There are, however, a lot of references to the Black slot (7) yet that is only marked PCIe 2.0 x16.

I have a 2500K CPU and the OS is Windows X .

It appears ASUS has shamefully abandoned Windows 10 support with this Motherboard. I would like all the features I purchased this board for to still be working with the latest Windows OS.

Thanks for your advice if an answer is forthcoming.


----------



## davidm71

The first slot is all you need. If you go sli it will drop to 8X. Windows 10 works fine for me on my P8Z68 Deluxe gen 1 and even figured out how to boot from an Intel 750 nvme drive!


----------



## Dassdardly

Thanks. Sorry, which colour or PCI slot number (from the uploaded pic) is your "first slot"?


----------



## TwoCables

The top slot is always the 'first' one. In this case, it's slot #2 as seen on that page in the manual.


----------



## Dassdardly

Thanks all. I thought I had the right slot but wasn't 100%.


----------



## norilink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norilink*
> 
> i have downgrade the BIOS and stopping bluetooth in the BIOS, hope this help solving this annoying thing
> thanks 4 replay


problem solved my mouse is faulty
sorry for confusion


----------



## truehighroller1

I have a good question. Can someone upgrade the BIOS on my P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 for me since I'm not that good at it?

I would like to be able to switch on PCIE 3.0 or Gen 3 and Asus stopped supporting me here with this board so they won't update the BIOS to give me the option to click in on manually like some of the more popular models of this board, the Premium.

I would greatly appreciate any help with this one seriously.

Everything in my signature is current hardware wise if curious.


----------



## pc-illiterate

you wont have real pci-e3 support until you have a cpu that supports pci-e3. you need at least ivy bridge.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I have a good question. Can someone upgrade the BIOS on my P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 for me since I'm not that good at it?
> 
> I would like to be able to switch on PCIE 3.0 or Gen 3 and Asus stopped supporting me here with this board so they won't update the BIOS to give me the option to click in on manually like some of the more popular models of this board, the Premium.
> 
> I would greatly appreciate any help with this one seriously.
> 
> Everything in my signature is current hardware wise if curious.


Even if you had an Ivy Bridge CPU, there is no need to be good at it. I don't think such a thing even exists. You just follow the instructions in the manual. I mean, it's really that easy.

Also, no one will be able to do it *for* you. All we would ever be able to do is, give you instructions to follow. So, you may as well just go by the manual's instructions.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Even if you had an Ivy Bridge CPU, there is no need to be good at it. I don't think such a thing even exists. You just follow the instructions in the manual. I mean, it's really that easy.
> 
> Also, no one will be able to do it *for* you. All we would ever be able to do is, give you instructions to follow. So, you may as well just go by the manual's instructions.


I have an i7 2700k. I just need someone with the skill set to mod a bios for this thing for me to update the code so i can have the option to enable gen 3 like the premium has the option of doing. Mine is the deluxe and the option is not in my bios at all. That or someone get me an updated uefi module inserted into this bios and I think that has the option to enable gen 3 or force it rather I should say, via the options.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I have an i7 2700k. I just need someone with the skill set to mod a bios for this thing for me to update the code so i can have the option to enable gen 3 like the premium has the option of doing. Mine is the deluxe and the option is not in my bios at all. That or someone get me an updated uefi module inserted into this bios and I think that has the option to enable gen 3 or force it rather I should say, via the options.


Your P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 is already a 3.0 PCIE motherboard (gen 3 stands for 3.0 PCIE support), but the problem is that your i7 2700K supports only 2.0 PCIE.

So modding a BIOS would not do anything as your current BIOS supports 3.0. It automatically changes from 2.0 to 3.0 depending on your GPU PCIE type or CPU.

The PCIE controller is built in CPU not in motherboard's chipset, so 2700K has 2.0 PCIE controller built in and no BIOS hack or motherboard swap will change it.

To get 3.0 PCIE you'd have to change your CPU to for example 3770K.

CHEERS..


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Your P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 is already a 3.0 PCIE motherboard (gen 3 stands for 3.0 PCIE support), but the problem is that your i7 2700K supports only 2.0 PCIE.
> 
> So modding a BIOS would not do anything as your current BIOS supports 3.0. It automatically changes from 2.0 to 3.0 depending on your GPU PCIE type or CPU.
> 
> The PCIE controller is built in CPU not in motherboard's chipset, so 2700K has 2.0 PCIE controller built in and no BIOS hack or motherboard swap will change it.
> 
> To get 3.0 PCIE you'd have to change your CPU to for example 3770K.
> 
> CHEERS..


It worked fine with the new amd cards because amd doesn't have a trigger to turn it off built in to their driver but Nvidia does.

Some mbs have a way to bypass it by switching it to gen 3 manually.

I want that option so why are you arguing with me about this?

Do you work at Asus? That would make total sense because they're just as helpful.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> It worked fine with the new amd cards because amd doesn't have a trigger to turn it off built in to their driver but Nvidia does.
> 
> Some mbs have a way to bypass it by switching it to gen 3 manually.
> 
> I want that option so why are you arguing with me about this?
> 
> Do you work at Asus? That would make total sense because they're just as helpful.


I'm just being helpful, sorry if that is disappointing you.

Simply you can't "turn on" option that your 2700K processor DOES NOT HAVE, motherboard is not your problem there.

2700K only has 2.0 PCIE controller, no "bypass" can help about that.

Look at 2700K specs and you'll see that it has only 2.0 PCIE support, scroll down to expansion options.

http://ark.intel.com/products/61275/Intel-Core-i7-2700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz

Get 3770K and you'll have 3.0 PCIE enabled (if your GPU is 3.0 device).

Also performance difference between 2.0 x 16 and 3.0 x 16 in real life gaming usage non existent. 2.0 x 16 slot has more than enough bandwidth for any single GPU card (including 980Ti or Fury X)

CHEERS..


----------



## kevindd992002

@truehighroller1

What is wrong with you? KingT's point is valid and was just trying to help. I didn't find his post with a hint of any arguing temperature and yet you came off with an offensive post? C'mon!


----------



## truehighroller1

I have an i7 2700k.

I just need someone with the skill set to mod a bios for this thing for me to update the code so I can have the option to enable gen 3 like the premium has the option of doing MANUALLY.

Mine is the deluxe and the option is not in my bios at all.

That or can someone get me an updated uefi module inserted into this bios? I think that it has the option to enable gen 3 or force it rather I should say, via the options.

It kicked into PCIE 3.0 Mode fine with the new amd cards because amd doesn't have a trigger to turn it off built in to their driver but Nvidia does.

Some mbs have a way to bypass it by switching it to gen 3 manually and that's what I am looking for.

Thank you for your time whomever has the skill set to do this for me.


----------



## TwoCables

Good lord. *You can't do that with a Sandy Bridge CPU because it's not possible.* You would absolutely need to have an Ivy Bridge CPU.

Ok?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Good lord. *You can't do that with a Sandy Bridge CPU because it's not possible.* You would absolutely need to have an Ivy Bridge CPU.
> 
> Ok?


I was able to do it fine with my other gpu's up to and including my 390x.

Ok?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I was able to do it fine with my other gpu's up to and including my 390x.
> 
> Ok?


Based on what everyone else is saying, I would bet that it wasn't *actually* supporting PCI-E 3.0. Sandy Bridge doesn't support it. It can't.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Based on what everyone else is saying, I would bet that it wasn't *actually* supporting PCI-E 3.0. Sandy Bridge doesn't support it. It can't.


That's an answer that makes more sense. It would still be nice for testing reasons, to have someone give me the option though considering the cheaper model of this MB from ASUS has the option built into it's BIOS menu.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> That's an answer that makes more sense. It would still be nice for testing reasons, to have someone give me the option though considering the cheaper model of this MB from ASUS has the option built into it's BIOS menu.


Ivy Bridge is still required for true support.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Ivy Bridge is still required for true support.


Got that part thank you. It would still be nice for testing reasons, to have someone give me the option though considering the cheaper model of this MB from ASUS has the option built into it's BIOS menu.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Got that part thank you. It would still be nice for testing reasons, to have someone give me the option though considering the cheaper model of this MB from ASUS has the option built into it's BIOS menu.


How can you test it when your CPU doesn't support it?

Also, I don't think I've ever heard of anyone creating a custom BIOS for a motherboard. For a video card, yes, that's easy. Modifying a motherboard's BIOS without screwing something up might be a bit out of reach.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> How can you test it when your CPU doesn't support it?
> 
> Also, I don't think I've ever heard of anyone creating a custom BIOS for a motherboard. For a video card, yes, that's easy. Modifying a motherboard's BIOS without screwing something up might be a bit out of reach.


Oh I thought I explained that part. It was working before just fine, with this new card it doesn't. I would like to be able to turn it back on for testing purposes.

http://forums.tweaktown.com/asus/50034-asus-p8z68-v-pro-gen3-bios-mod-including-how-instructions.html

Thank you


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Oh I thought I explained that part. It was working before with this new card it doesn't I would liek to be able to turn it back on for testing purposes. Thank you


Look:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandy_Bridge

So, regardless of whether you saw "PCI-E 3.0" in some program (like GPU-Z), it wasn't really working because it can't. The CPU doesn't have any way to support PCI-E 3.0.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Look:
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandy_Bridge
> 
> So, regardless of whether you saw it working, it wasn't really working because it can't. The CPU doesn't have any way to support PCI-E 3.0.


Not arguing with you about it. I want to test it myself.

Oh I thought I explained that part. It was working before just fine, with this new card it doesn't. I would like to be able to turn it back on for testing purposes.

http://forums.tweaktown.com/asus/50034-asus-p8z68-v-pro-gen3-bios-mod-including-how-instructions.html

Thank you


----------



## TwoCables

Make a new thread to ask. We're done here.

I should clarify something though: that new BIOS you mentioned that brings in support for PCI-E 3.0 is so that you can have PCI-E 3.0 support when you install an Ivy Bridge CPU. Without that BIOS, you wouldn't have PCI-E 3.0 support with an Ivy Bridge CPU installed. It does *not* give PCI-E 3.0 support to Sandy Bridge CPUs because Sandy Bridge CPUs are absolutely incapable of supporting PCI-E 3.0. I don't care what GPU-Z or any other program says. If it says that the bus interface is running at PCI-E 3.0, *then it's a misreading* because Sandy Bridge CPUs are unable to support it. There's nothing that can be done to make them support it.

Now, Sandy Bridge-E CPUs can have PCI-E 3.0 support brought in with a special BIOS update, but not regular Sandy Bridge CPUs.

*Edit:* Well, I guess you don't want an answer because if you did, then you would have made a new thread. Maybe you are just here to troll us and to piss us off. I can see that you're reloading this thread over and over. I know how to tell.


----------



## saint19

Thread cleaned.


----------



## truehighroller1

Ok I'll try again, now.

Quick recap: I was having issues with my system randomly locking up on me when it was saying that PCIE 3.0 was enabled and I had a 390x installed and I own this MB that this thread was created for.

I would like to be able to get a custom made updated BIOS for my P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 MB so that I can have the option to manually turn off and on the Gen 3 or PCIE 3.0 like the premium MB does.. I have an i7 2700k.

I understand that my i7 2700k doesn't support PCIE 3.0 so lets not talk about that part as I understand that, I really do.

Now, It was registering as PCIE 3.0 with the 390x because I'm guessing here AMD didn't realize it was causing issues for people and didn't implement a driver check if you will to turn it off when it's not properly supported by the CPU.

While nvidia told me that they did, and that's why their driver doesn't allow for it to kick in unless, you force it through the BIOS.

I then started looking into and even called ASUS support, into where the option is hidden in my BIOS to force it via nvidia supports suggestion. My MB was never given the option by Asus to manually control it but it is present on the other versions of this MB. I was told that via Asus support.

I would like to be able to switch it on, manually to see if I have issues again or not for testing purposes.

I looked into modding my BIOS and found this thread stating it is possible to do.

http://forums.tweaktown.com/asus/50034-asus-p8z68-v-pro-gen3-bios-mod-including-how-instructions.html

I was wondering if anyone here has the know how on modding BIOS and if so, if you could help me out with getting this done, please.

Considering this is the owners thread I figure this would be the best place to ask for help.

Thank you for your time anyone who helps.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Ok I'll try again, now.
> 
> Quick recap: I was having issues with my system randomly locking up on me when it was saying that PCIE 3.0 was enabled and I had a 390x installed and I own this MB that this thread was created for.
> 
> I would like to be able to get a custom made updated BIOS for my P8Z68 Deluxe Gen 3 MB so that I can have the option to manually turn off and on the Gen 3 or PCIE 3.0 like the premium MB does.. I have an i7 2700k.
> 
> I understand that my i7 2700k doesn't support PCIE 3.0 so lets not talk about that part as I understand that, I really do.
> 
> Now, It was registering as PCIE 3.0 with the 390x because I'm guessing here AMD didn't realize it was causing issues for people and didn't implement a driver check if you will to turn it off when it's not properly supported by the CPU.
> 
> While nvidia told me that they did, and that's why their driver doesn't allow for it to kick in unless, you force it through the BIOS.
> 
> I then started looking into and even called ASUS support, into where the option is hidden in my BIOS to force it via nvidia supports suggestion. My MB was never given the option by Asus to manually control it but it is present on the other versions of this MB. I was told that via Asus support.
> 
> I would like to be able to switch it on, manually to see if I have issues again or not for testing purposes.
> 
> I looked into modding my BIOS and found this thread stating it is possible to do.
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/asus/50034-asus-p8z68-v-pro-gen3-bios-mod-including-how-instructions.html
> 
> I was wondering if anyone here has the know how on modding BIOS and if so, if you could help me out with getting this done, please.
> 
> Considering this is the owners thread I figure this would be the best place to ask for help.
> 
> Thank you for your time anyone who helps.


1st let me ask you something.

How do you know that PCI-E 3.0 was working before?


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> 1st let me ask you something.
> 
> How do you know that PCI-E 3.0 was working before?


I kept having random crash issues with a 390x GPU which after months of trouble shooting, I was never able to get fixed until I switched to this 980ti.

Asus Support specifically it was one of their GPUs " I went through three of them ", kept stating this was a system issue on my side.

Now flash forward and I have no issues what so ever with this 980ti Lightning ok.

Now, Someone some where pointed out to me that I was running PCIE 2.0 now all of a sudden with this 980ti.

I remember thinking huh, that's odd. I've always been in PCIE 3.0 mode as long as I can remember with this MB with all of the AMD based GPUs that I've gone through with it.

I then called nvidia and they stated that they implemented at the driver level for this to happen with my CPU setup because it was causing issues for people and they identified it as stemming from exactly that and that I would have to force it thorough the BIOS if I wanted it to kick in again which is in their database, as a solution if needed on the customers side.

A way of side stepping their driver if you will.

It finally hits me, that's why I kept having sporadic issues with the 390x's, the whole time.

I called Asus and they stated that the MB is no longer supported but the tech support guy told me that on the premium and other models like this one at least one other one I would think besides the premium, they have the option to turn it on and off manually underneath one of the sub menus in the BIOS.

I looked with this tech support guy on the phone with me and it wasn't there as an option in my BIOS where he said it would be. He then stated that they just probably never added it to this MB as a ticker option if you will.

I've used modded BIOS in the past from the community maybe not here but I have in the past for other MBs.

I figured since I found that post where it can be done with instructions maybe someone here would have the ability to help me get this thing updated code wise a little.


----------



## KingT

Your system was always in 2.0 PCIE mode, with both 390X and 980Ti, doesn't matter what you think you saw in GPU-Z (GPU-Z like all software monitoring programs is not 100% accurate).

Once I saw in GPU-Z my GTX480 gpu running at over 1.5GHz







it was a bug , also with numerous CPUs I had processor speed at like 7GHz i CPU-Z etc.

PCIE controller is in CPU, therefore in your 2700K, and that processor has 2.0 PCIE controller, end of the story, it cannot run @ 3.0 no matter what motherboard you have, GPU installed or BIOS setting.

And also there's no performance difference between 2.0 x 16 and 3.0 x 16, you would have same gaming experience in both modes.

Just give up and stop wasting everybody's time, incl. yours.

CHEERS..


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Your system was always in 2.0 PCIE mode, with both 390X and 980Ti, doesn't matter what you think you saw in GPU-Z (GPU-Z like all software monitoring programs is not 100% accurate).
> 
> Once I saw in GPU-Z my GTX480 gpu running at over 1.5GHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it was a bug , also with numerous CPUs I had processor speed at like 7GHz i CPU-Z etc.
> 
> PCIE controller is in CPU, therefore in your 2700K, and that processor has 2.0 PCIE controller, end of the story, it cannot run @ 3.0 no matter what motherboard you have, GPU installed or BIOS setting.
> 
> And also there's no performance difference between 2.0 x 16 and 3.0 x 16, you would have same gaming experience in both modes.
> 
> Just give up and stop wasting everybody's time, incl. yours.
> 
> CHEERS..


It has nothing to do with performance. It's for trouble shooting reasons but, I've said that 3000 times now and you just like shouting at people apparently..

I'll see if I can use my old 7970 for a little while next time I get a chance and prove you wrong hopefully. Then I would like an apology for you being such a " nice " person towards me throughout this whole blessed experience ok?


----------



## TwoCables

The problem is, you're not listening and it has become very irritating. We have told you over and over and over and over and over. We have shown you official specifications that clearly show that the 2700K is incapable of PCI-E 3.0. We have explained it to you in numerous ways, yet no matter what we say, you refuse to accept the possibility that we know what we're talking about - and that is extremely rude. Most people would *accept* the education, but you keep spitting it back in our faces.

I can't wait to see your proof so that we can use it to prove to you that it's a false reading. I promise you that you will be apologizing to us and you will be saying that you stand corrected. Mark my words.


----------



## TwoCables

I have an idea, truehighroller1: go ask at Tom's Hardware.

Or, you could Google this. Maybe that would help you prove us wrong. Gasp. Go ahead: find proof that the 2700K is capable of supporting/providing PCI-E 3.0. I am challenging you. Will you accept this challenge?

If you accept this challenge and fail to prove us wrong, then you must agree to profusely apologize to us and to state that you stand corrected, and you must also agree to stop asking this question.


----------



## Disturbed117

OK, Let's be a bit more civil here guys.

As for the topic at hand, I know very little in regards to Intel, But i'm fairly certain that the 2700k is limited to PCI-E2.0. It however will be able to run cards which are PCI-E3.0 but only at PCI-E2.0 speeds.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disturbed117*
> 
> OK, Let's be a bit more civil here guys.
> 
> As for the topic at hand, I know very little in regards to Intel, But i'm fairly certain that the 2700k is limited to PCI-E2.0. It however will be able to run cards which are PCI-E3.0 but only at PCI-E2.0 speeds.


This is correct. All official specifications and documentations further support and prove that mainstream Sandy Bridge CPUs such as the 2700K are absolutely incapable of PCI-E 3.0.

So contrary to what some people might think, we do know what we are talking about. That's why we're talking.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> This is correct. All official specifications and documentations further support and prove that mainstream Sandy Bridge CPUs such as the 2700K are absolutely incapable of PCI-E 3.0.
> 
> So contrary to what some people might think, we do know what we are talking about. That's why we're talking.


Ok more civil thanks.

So my issue was it was running or, *so it said* and I kept having random crashes with every single 390x card I tried.

That's only thing that has changed.

How is that not an understandable assumption on my part?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Ok more civil thanks.
> 
> So my issue was it was running or, *so it said* and I kept having random crashes with every single 390x card I tried.
> 
> That's only thing that has changed.
> 
> How is that not an understandable assumption on my part?


I was civil the first time I told you that PCI-E 3.0 is impossible with the 2700K. I only became angry after having to repeat myself dozens of times. A person can only take so much of that.

This is the first time I've ever seen anyone reporting problems with the 390X with a mainstream Sandy Bridge CPU with this motherboard. So, maybe it was the driver. Who knows? Who cares though right? You're not having problems now and you have PhysX support too.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> When someone says they understand it shouldn't be or is not, possible multiple times while trying to explain their reasoning.
> 
> Perhaps you should just stop shouting for a minute and go what did you say was happening, that's odd.
> 
> It's not nice or civil to then have three friends come in and start shouting the same thing at the person and then some of the other things that were said, and you know it.
> 
> Please don't justify the treatment. There's no justification there.
> 
> Now you know why I want to try this. I wanted closure to the issue at this point or rather to know that's what happened.
> 
> Thanks.


I'm not shouting. I am talking to you. If I were shouting at you, then you'd know it.

You have been given the answer, and you've been given that answer dozens of times by multiple people. PCI-E 3.0 is absolutely impossible with mainstream Sandy Bridge CPUs. I don't care what you saw when you had AMD cards installed. Ok? I am absolutely sick and tired of repeating myself.

Sigh. I don't have any more patience for this. Google it and then you'll see. Make a new thread, and then you'll be given answers by others, and then you'll see.


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm not shouting. I am talking to you. If I were shouting at you, then you'd know it.
> 
> You have been given the answer, and you've been given that answer dozens of times by multiple people. PCI-E 3.0 is absolutely impossible with mainstream Sandy Bridge CPUs. I don't care what you saw when you had AMD cards installed. Ok? I am absolutely sick and tired of repeating myself.
> 
> Sigh. I don't have any more patience for this. Google it and then you'll see. Make a new thread, and then you'll be given answers by others, and then you'll see.


Ok more civil thanks.

*So my issue was it was running or, so it said PCIE 3.0 and I kept having random crashes with every single 390x card I tried.*

That's only thing that has changed.

How is that not an understandable assumption on my part?

Thank you for not yelling. If you were, I'm sure I would know









Nice guy here guys. Thanks man.


----------



## pc-illiterate

a motherboard is a pc component. they glitch. they lie.
you were not in pci-e3 mode. as has been stated repeatedly, the 2700k does NOT support pci-e3 only pci-e2 speeds. no matter what glitch was causing gpu-z, which is wrong so many times on so many things, to read pci-e3, it was not. you do not have an option to enable pci-e3 in the bios because it is impossible to enable on a sandy bridge processor. a sandy bridge processor (non enthusiast version chip) will never allow a pci-e3 card to run in pci-e3 mode because the chip lacks the hardware to do so.

basically lets just put things in perspective with an analogy.
you have a car. you want to fly your car to the moon. you cant. its a car.

read this quote and then maybe you can understand why you should be apologizing to everyone.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trumpet-205*
> 
> *I have seen a lot of questions regarding whether or not one's P67/Z68 motherboard supports PCI Express 3.0. To clear up the confusion I decided to take what I have written in the past and post it here with some editing.*
> 
> First PCI Express has the maximum of 16 lanes, whether this is PCI Express 2.0 or PCI Express 3.0. PCI Express 3.0 has doubled the performance of 2.0. On 2.0 each lane can do 1 GB/s; on 3.0 each lane can do 2 GB/s. Think of this as a freeway. No widening is done, but the speed limit has doubled. PCI Express that graphics card(s) use comes from the CPU itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _(See how PCI Express 2.0 x16 is wired directly to the CPU, CPU is 2nd Gen Sandy Bridge)._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _(Again, see how PCI Express is coming from the CPU directly)._
> 
> Sandy Bridge CPU has PCI Express 2.0 controller built inside.
> Ivy Bridge CPU has PCI Express 3.0 controller built inside.
> 
> So how come there is Gen3 motherboard going on? Why can't you just swap the CPU and have PCI Express 3.0? Answer to that is PCI Express switches. PCI Express switch is used to split a single 16 lanes into two 8 lanes. On motherboard that supports SLI setup, Nvidia mandates that both GPUs are to connect to the CPU directly. Since CPU itself can only supply a single 16 lanes, a gizmo called PCI Express switch is used to split it into two 8 lanes. This is from Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3 (a motherboard that supports SLI) manual, page 8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See how PCI Express switch sits between the slot and the CPU? This thing determines whether or not you are going to have PCI Express 3.0. Intel did not have any plan with PCI Express 3.0 when Sandy Bridge platform was first released. As a result motherboard manufacturers use PCI Express 2.0 switches on Gen2 motherboards. Which is why you cannot use PCI Express 3.0 on Gen2, because the switch, whom supposed to split x16 into two x8, doesn't support 3.0. Now take a look at GA-Z68A-D3-B3, a motherboard that does NOT support SLI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since it only has one x16 slot, all 16 lanes are connected to the CPU directly. No switch is used. Therefore when you install Ivy Bridge it will run at PCI Express 3.0.
> 
> In fact, on ASRock website,
> http://www.asrock.com/microsite/pcie3/overview.html
> 
> On ASUS website:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how motherboards from above either are Gen3, or that they don't support SLI (single x16 slot).
> http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/pcie3_ready/
> 
> *Summary:*
> 
> * When Sandy Bridge is used with any LGA1155 motherboard, it will always run at PCI Express 2.0. Always.
> 
> * When Ivy Bridge is used with motherboard that does not support SLI, it will run at PCI Express 3.0.
> 
> * When Ivy Bridge is used with P67/Z68 motherboard that does support SLI, it must says that it supports PCI Express 3.0 and/or Gen3 for it to support PCI Express 3.0. Otherwise it will run at 2.0.
> 
> _Keep in mind that some BIOS/UEFI allow you to set the speed of PCI Express. You still have to fulfill one of the condition above to use PCIe 3.0._
> 
> _PCI Express lanes coming from the chipset (x1 and x4) are still running at 2.0. It is the same with H77/Z75/Z77 chipset regardless of what CPU is used._
> 
> *Z77 motherboard only: If your motherboard has a PCI Express x4 slot wired to the CPU, it can only be used when Ivy Bridge is installed. The slot will be disabled when Sandy Bridge is used. Consult your motherboard manual/diagram to find out if it is wired to the CPU or the chipset.*


----------



## truehighroller1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> Ok more civil thanks.
> *
> So my issue was it was running or, so it said pcie 3.0 and I kept having random crashes with every single 390x card I tried.*
> *
> That's only thing that has changed.*
> *
> How is that not an understandable assumption on my part?*


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truehighroller1*
> 
> I kept having random crash issues with a 390x GPU which after months of trouble shooting, I was never able to get fixed until I switched to this 980ti.
> 
> Asus Support specifically it was one of their GPUs " I went through three of them ", kept stating this was a system issue on my side.
> 
> Now flash forward and I have no issues what so ever with this 980ti Lightning ok.
> 
> Now, Someone some where pointed out to me that I was running PCIE 2.0 now all of a sudden with this 980ti.
> 
> I remember thinking huh, that's odd. I've always been in PCIE 3.0 mode as long as I can remember with this MB with all of the AMD based GPUs that I've gone through with it.
> 
> I then called nvidia and they stated that they implemented at the driver level for this to happen with my CPU setup because it was causing issues for people and they identified it as stemming from exactly that and that I would have to force it thorough the BIOS if I wanted it to kick in again which is in their database, as a solution if needed on the customers side.
> 
> A way of side stepping their driver if you will.
> 
> It finally hits me, that's why I kept having sporadic issues with the 390x's, the whole time.
> 
> I called Asus and they stated that the MB is no longer supported but the tech support guy told me that on the premium and other models like this one at least one other one I would think besides the premium, they have the option to turn it on and off manually underneath one of the sub menus in the BIOS.
> 
> I looked with this tech support guy on the phone with me and it wasn't there as an option in my BIOS where he said it would be. He then stated that they just probably never added it to this MB as a ticker option if you will.
> 
> I've used modded BIOS in the past from the community maybe not here but I have in the past for other MBs.
> 
> I figured since I found that post where it can be done with instructions maybe someone here would have the ability to help me get this thing updated code wise a little.


Sorry for the late reply but I was busy.

Now, I now that you saw GPUZ information and say PCI-E 3.0 but trust me, that information is not always correct. Check this two pictures.

i5-2500k + 7970 Lightning



GPUZ show my GPU as PCI-E 3.0, non posible since the CPU only work in PCI-E 2.0

i7-3770k + Titan X



GPUZ show my GPU as PCI-E 1.1????, even, when this CPU and GPU are 3.0?

It is NON possible enable or disable PCI-E 3.0 since this depends of hardware and not software.

So, what was you problem? Pretty sure that was your GPU...nothing more can cause those problems that you was having.

Finally, you do not need to go to Tom's and ask the same, I will post the same answer and deleted the post that goes off topic too there.

*I will clean the thread again and I hope than this be the last time that I have to do it.*


----------



## truehighroller1

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19*
> 
> Sorry for the late reply but I was busy.
> 
> Now, I now that you saw GPUZ information and say PCI-E 3.0 but trust me, that information is not always correct. Check this two pictures.
> 
> i5-2500k + 7970 Lightning
> 
> 
> 
> GPUZ show my GPU as PCI-E 3.0, non posible since the CPU only work in PCI-E 2.0
> 
> i7-3770k + Titan X
> 
> 
> 
> GPUZ show my GPU as PCI-E 1.1????, even, when this CPU and GPU are 3.0?
> 
> It is NON possible enable or disable PCI-E 3.0 since this depends of hardware and not software.
> 
> So, what was you problem? Pretty sure that was your GPU...nothing more can cause those problems that you was having.
> 
> Finally, you do not need to go to Tom's and ask the same, I will post the same answer and deleted the post that goes off topic too there.
> 
> *I will clean the thread again and I hope than this be the last time that I have to do it.*






Key piece I think you guys are missing here.

*
I then called nvidia and they stated that they implemented at the driver level for this to happen with my CPU setup because it was causing issues for people and they identified it as stemming from exactly that and that I would have to force it thorough the BIOS if I wanted it to kick in again which is in their database, as a solution if needed on the customers side.

A way of side stepping their driver if you will.

It finally hits me, that's why I kept having sporadic issues with the 390x's, the whole time.*

Three different gpus? Three different gpus all the same issues?

Also I have no clue who toms
is im sorry.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Enough of that. It looks like there's a legitimate issue with the GPUs, and this is a mobo club so probably not the best place to ask, I would advise actually making a new thread in the AMD/ATI section about it.


----------



## alancsalt

This is Toms - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/

Members here aren't missing what you are saying. The problem is that you have been given incorrect and misleading information by tech support. Most of us have had trouble with lazy or poor tech support at some time. You have been given correct answers by a number of members now, and you will not get a different answer here no matter how you phrase it. PCIe 2 or 3 is not your problem or the cause of it. Please take Chunky_Chimp's advice and make a post in the AMD/ATI section describing the problem and ask what might be causing it.


----------



## TwoCables

I'd be willing to bet that it's a driver bug/quirk.


----------



## cstrike105

Hi. I am unable to login to Windows 10 after a reset of the software. Keyboard and mouse not recognized.


----------



## blogoverclock

BIOS DOWNGRADE P8P67 WS Revolution
How to recover the old bios

Tested with the P8P67 WS Revolution REV. 1.xx Motherboard from ASUS. There is a possibility these steps could also work for other P8X67 boards and even for other UEFI boards (all boards that use BUPDATER on DOS), but I cannot guarantee it will work on any of them.

Here the complete tutorial:

http://ovrclocking.blogspot.it/p/blog-page.html


----------



## truehighroller1

Both of you have stumbled across the most troll thread ever. Just go some where else and ask for help if you're smart. The last guy didn't even get a response from anyone.


----------



## turrican9

My Asus P8P67 PRO is still in my main PC after all these years and still running rock solid! It has been running almost 24/7 for all these years. Masterpiece of a board!


----------



## FiveManDown

Disclaimer I am a complete hardware noob but interested in learning. Had my machine for 2 years which I built myself with limited knowledge.

I want to start to mod and overclock it now in preparation for a new build in 1-2 years. So the plan is to make my learning on this older machine first.

I have this board P8Z68/GEN3 and I have the i7 2700k.

I just put a ZOTAC 980ti in there. I have put it in the bottom PCI-E slot, the black one. It says PCI-E_3 or similar I thought this meant it was a PCI-E 3 slot. Anyway I saw that my CHIP doesn't support PCI-3 anyway and it probably just means 3rd slot and not PCI-E 3.

I am learning already it seems.

So my question is this:

Is it ok to be in the black slot (The 3rd one) or is it better to be in the 1st or 2nd slot? Does it even matter?


----------



## TwoCables

It means that it's the 3rd slot. That's why the first two have "1" and "2" on them. Use the first slot for best results.


----------



## FiveManDown

Thanks man. I don't know if my card will fit there but I can try!

Cheers


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveManDown*
> 
> Thanks man. I don't know if my card will fit there but I can try!
> 
> Cheers


You're welcome!

If it doesn't fit in the physical location of the first slot, then we'll see how it goes in the 2nd and 3rd slots.


----------



## Matozan

Hi,

I have P8Z68-V PRO and I would like to install AI Suite II or AI Suite III on Windows 10 64-bit.
Is there a solution how to do it?

On ROG Forum was a solution but the forum is not working well and I can not ask/reply on the forum.
There was a modified Setup.exe which has allowed to start installation on such "old" Mobo as mine and on Win 10
but the link on a cloud service has expired.

Can somebody help me?


----------



## iStayLate

Alright, made an account to post this. Still on my p8p68-V GEN3, with an i7-2600K cpu running @4.600

I am trying to disable hyperthreading in BIOS (BIOS v.0301), to no avail. The option is there, and enabled, but greyed out. Any suggestions?

Also, I tried upgrading BIOS to the latest version on ASUS' website to see if anything would change, put it on a FAT32 formatted USB, inserted it before boot and went to E.Z. Flash 2. Found the .ROM-file, but the BIOS freezez when I press OK (when it asks me if I want to proceed with the upgrade). Tried several times.

Any input would be much appreciated, even though I know it's an old mobo and most probably have upgraded by now.


----------



## paolik65

Hi,

I own a old P8Z68 Deluxe (first model, not GEN3) and I would like to install a new Nvidia 980 Ti card (now I am using an Nvidia 680), but I am a bit scared.
I read so may post on the net stating that that this mainboard will not post with the new 980 Ti cards.
Since I don't want to throw out my money, I would like to know your opinion.
There is anyone who experience this combo succesfully and, if yes, with what brand of Nvidia 980 Ti ???
Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks.

Paolik65


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paolik65*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I own a old P8Z68 Deluxe (first model, not GEN3) and I would like to install a new Nvidia 980 Ti card (now I am using an Nvidia 680), but I am a bit scared.
> I read so may post on the net stating that that this mainboard will not post with the new 980 Ti cards.
> Since I don't want to throw out my money, I would like to know your opinion.
> There is anyone who experience this combo succesfully and, if yes, with what brand of Nvidia 980 Ti ???
> Any help will be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Paolik65


Check your BIOS ver. to see if anything really needs updating.

Not sure what's wrong with installing a new card nor does the brand of card really matters.

But if I were in your case, I would uninstall your current driver in your OS. Then restart the computer and shut down.

Take the old video card out and swap in the new card (make sure connections are in place and everything). Install the new drivers.

Reboot, and test it.

Or if you prefer to do it the safe way, you can start everything from scratch. That includes formatting and re-installing Windows. But before you do that, have the card installed first before you proceed with formatting Windows. I honestly don't think its the hardware that may pose problems, but the software. At times, manufacturer may not continue to support by updating the software. In that case, you may be out of luck.

Good luck.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paolik65*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I own a old P8Z68 Deluxe (first model, not GEN3) and I would like to install a new Nvidia 980 Ti card (now I am using an Nvidia 680), but I am a bit scared.
> I read so may post on the net stating that that this mainboard will not post with the new 980 Ti cards.
> Since I don't want to throw out my money, I would like to know your opinion.
> There is anyone who experience this combo succesfully and, if yes, with what brand of Nvidia 980 Ti ???
> Any help will be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Paolik65


Can you kindly provide any links that say this claim?


----------



## paolik65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Can you kindly provide any links that say this claim?


There are many links on the net about this issue:

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2683672/gtx-980ti-asus-p8z68-pro-issue.html
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2755796/980-post-asus-p8z68-pro-motherboard.html
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=73386
https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/844952/gtx-980ti-asus-p8z68-v-pro-issue/

I don't know if the issue is related just to a particular brand of 980Ti, since somone else reported success with Asus 980Ti and MSI 980Ti on old Asus P8Z68 mainboards.

But before investing my money I would like to be sure.

My BIOS is uptodated to the latest available version 0306 year 2012, since it is a P8Z68 Deluxe NOT GEN3.


----------



## paolik65

Hi again,

Has nobody of you tried successfully the new Nvidia 980Ti based cards on his old P8Z68 Gen1 mainboard ???

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paolik65*
> 
> Hi again,
> 
> Has nobody of you tried successfully the new Nvidia 980Ti based cards on his old P8Z68 Gen1 mainboard ???
> 
> Any help will be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


Your best bet is to ask ASUS Tech Support to find out. E-mail them.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paolik65*
> 
> Hi again,
> 
> Has nobody of you tried successfully the new Nvidia 980Ti based cards on his old P8Z68 Gen1 mainboard ???
> 
> Any help will be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


I don't know. I recommend making a new thread to ask this because this thread is pretty much dead.


----------



## paolik65

I have just installed a new MSI Nvidia 980Ti Gaming 6G successfully on my P8Z68 Deluxe NOT Gen3 with latest BIOS 0306 and it works well under Windows 7 and Under Linux Ubuntu.

No boot issues.

The most important thing is that the BIOS has absolutely to work in LEGACY ROM mode. NO EFI mode, since the GOP UEFI on NOT Gen3 P8Z68 mainboards is still broken and ASUS doesn't want to fix it.

Anyway the card is working well under my system with BIOS Legacy ROM option.

I hope this information will be useful for other people on the net.


----------



## raisethe3

^^^Glad to hear its working for you.


----------



## EastCoast

Is there any official word on win10 drivers for this board yet??

So far the z68 series get them but the P67 series have not.

Some have already tried with the P67 without win10 drivers and wasn't able to fully install win10. So whats the official word on that?


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EastCoast*
> 
> Is there any official word on win10 drivers for this board yet??
> 
> So far the z68 series get them but the P67 series have not.
> 
> Some have already tried with the P67 without win10 drivers and wasn't able to fully install win10. So whats the official word on that?


They dropped the support long time ago. I think they don't care. The hope is lost long time ago. Latest updates I see is from 2013.

Yea, it would be nice to have official updates for this board, but it works fine without them on Win10, atleast on mine.


----------



## EastCoast

I have read mix result with 8.1 drivers for win10. But those successful did full win installs not upgrades from 7 or 8.1. So what did you do to get win10 drivers???


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EastCoast*
> 
> I have read mix result with 8.1 drivers for win10. But those successful did full win installs not upgrades from 7 or 8.1. So what did you do to get win10 drivers???


He said that the board is working fine without Windows 10 drivers - at least for him.


----------



## zazzn

Hello all,

I noticed there is a BIOS update for the p8p67 -LE 3801. My question i'm having issues with using my P8P67 and 4 dimms of ram.

Now for about 5 years I've been packing the same setup, but recently I got an NVME-PCIE SSD and I installed it in slot 2 of the PCIE. (it's bandwidth limited but faster than sata 6g)

The issue is if the NVME drive is installed Dimm B2 will cause the red memory led to stay on during boot. If i pull out the ram it works fine.

I've tried other ram and moving the ram around in every combination, it seems its only if that dimm has ram and there is a card installed in to PCIE2.

I was wondering if flashing to 3801 would help because 3703 states " P8P67 LE BIOS 3703 Enhance compatibility with some PCIE device." which leads me to believe it may fix my issue.


----------



## EastCoast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I noticed there is a BIOS update for the p8p67 -LE 3801. My question i'm having issues with using my P8P67 and 4 dimms of ram.
> 
> Now for about 5 years I've been packing the same setup, but recently I got an NVME-PCIE SSD and I installed it in slot 2 of the PCIE. (it's bandwidth limited but faster than sata 6g)
> 
> The issue is if the NVME drive is installed Dimm B2 will cause the red memory led to stay on during boot. If i pull out the ram it works fine.
> 
> I've tried other ram and moving the ram around in every combination, it seems its only if that dimm has ram and there is a card installed in to PCIE2.
> 
> I was wondering if flashing to 3801 would help because 3703 states " P8P67 LE BIOS 3703 Enhance compatibility with some PCIE device." which leads me to believe it may fix my issue.


check this out:
https://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20131223070148670&board_id=1&model=P8P67+LE&page=1&SLanguage=en-us


----------



## zazzn

What the heck does that have to do with my problem? I'm not talking about sata at all?!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EastCoast*
> 
> check this out:
> https://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20131223070148670&board_id=1&model=P8P67+LE&page=1&SLanguage=en-us


----------



## zazzn

I've been running Win10 since the release of the insiders beta. Works great on my p8p67.

I had to use an older Marvell driver for the Marvell controller, also if you replace the USB 3.0 renesys driver with one form Win 7 or win 8, usb 3 will work faster it seems.

No issues with win 10 for me.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I noticed there is a BIOS update for the p8p67 -LE 3801. My question i'm having issues with using my P8P67 and 4 dimms of ram.
> 
> Now for about 5 years I've been packing the same setup, but recently I got an NVME-PCIE SSD and I installed it in slot 2 of the PCIE. (it's bandwidth limited but faster than sata 6g)
> 
> The issue is if the NVME drive is installed Dimm B2 will cause the red memory led to stay on during boot. If i pull out the ram it works fine.
> 
> I've tried other ram and moving the ram around in every combination, it seems its only if that dimm has ram and there is a card installed in to PCIE2.
> 
> I was wondering if flashing to 3801 would help because 3703 states " P8P67 LE BIOS 3703 Enhance compatibility with some PCIE device." which leads me to believe it may fix my issue.


Worst case scenario, nothing will change. EVO didn't get that bios so it seems to be a LE specific issue.


----------



## Catscratch

Btw, as I get lazy, i can't really find which voltage to raise a bit for 4 sticks of ram on p8p67 evo. VCCIO or VCCSA ? With the newer gens, it got a little fuzzy. Anyone here using 4 sticks of ram and had to raise any voltages ? It's a mismatched ram issue i know. I'm using 2 different kits. At first nothing was wrong but yesterday firefox crashed a lot and edge blue screened for memory_management for the first time on win10. So I raised dram voltage to 1.55v and vccio to 1.1v and it seems to be holding for now. Might also be a heating issue. The sticks get hot to touch, but you can keep touching at least.


----------



## benjamen50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> Btw, as I get lazy, i can't really find which voltage to raise a bit for 4 sticks of ram on p8p67 evo. VCCIO or VCCSA ? With the newer gens, it got a little fuzzy. Anyone here using 4 sticks of ram and had to raise any voltages ? It's a mismatched ram issue i know. I'm using 2 different kits. At first nothing was wrong but yesterday firefox crashed a lot and edge blue screened for memory_management for the first time on win10. So I raised dram voltage to 1.55v and vccio to 1.1v and it seems to be holding for now. Might also be a heating issue. The sticks get hot to touch, but you can keep touching at least.


VCCSA, which is the system agent voltage should help for more than two RAM sticks.

Might need to loosen RAM timings more if your memory is overclocked.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> VCCSA, which is the system agent voltage should help for more than two RAM sticks.
> 
> Might need to loosen RAM timings more if your memory is overclocked.


Yeah, there are a lot of sites on web that says vccio is the memory controller voltage and vccsa is not to be touched. Very fuzzy info around.

One of the few sources that say as you did : http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/understanding-all-voltage-configurations-from-the-motherboard/4/
Quote:


> *VCCSA*: Starting with the second-generation Core i processors ("Sandy Bridge"), the VTT voltage was renamed to VCCSA, and is called "system agent." It feeds the integrated PCI Express controller, memory controller, and display engine (i.e., the "2D" part of the graphics engine).
> *VCCIO*: Available starting with the second-generation Core i CPUs ("Sandy Bridge"), this voltage is used for feeding all input/output (I/O) pins of the CPU, except memory-related pins. On CPUs that have this voltage, it is also used to feed the thermal control bus (PECI, Platform Environmental Control Interface).


PS: Timings are not a problem right now, one kit is 8-9-8 1866, the slower kit is 9-10-9. I'm using them 10-11-10 @ 1.50-1.55v right now. I may try 9-10-9 @1.55 if vccio or vccsa gives me more stability


----------



## TwoCables

Wow. I had to increase VCCIO in order to stabilize my system, and I was told that I had to do that because I have DDR3-1866 memory instead of 1600 MHz memory. I haven't touched VCCSA.


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. I had to increase VCCIO in order to stabilize my system, and I was told that I had to do that because I have DDR3-1866 memory instead of 1600 MHz memory. I haven't touched VCCSA.










One of the most messed up topics of sandybridge platform. White paper clearly states vcssa as *System Agent (memory controller, DMI, PCIe controllers, and display engine) power supply*
VCCIO does not have a detailed description.
Quote:


> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2157-Maximus-IV-Extreme-Bios-Sandybridge-CPU-Overview-and-CPU-Overclocking-Guide
> VCCIO
> The adjustment of this voltage may help to slightly improve the overclocking capability of the IMC / DRAM, even though the default voltage is enough to run at a 2133MHz DRAM frequency. A 1.20v setting is more than adequate to maximize Memory overclocks in most cases.


But for ivybridge, VCCSA is the thing. Since the terminology is the same, how can intel have the same feature for different things 1 generation apart ? Weird because sandy boards also support ivy cpus








Quote:


> https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition
> 4) VCCSA is the voltage that helps facilitate memory overclocking on Ivy-E. DRAM voltage does too (obviously). Speeds over DDR3-2400 may require high levels of VCCSA if high density memory configurations are used. We have used up to 1.40V with 64GB of memory at speeds over DDR3-2400.


PS: As per intel spec, anything above 1333 is out of spec for Sandy. Even tight 1600 sticks, especially if all 4 slots are populated, may need voltage nudge.


----------



## TwoCables

Geez. Confusing. LOL

I noticed an improvement to my stability with my VCCIO at around 1.16-something. Today, I have it at 1.175 and it hovers between 1.178V and 1.187V.

Just now though, I set my VCCSA voltage to 1.0000V. The default was at 0.925V. I have been having some stupid annoying problems with minor things lately, so maybe this will help. Who knows. lol


----------



## zazzn

anyone have any idea how to override and flash with the LE bios? When I try form the UEFI interface it knows it's not the right bios. I'm work or upgrade at this stage. Anyone know where i can get a spare bios chip so I can flash it with the right firmware as a backup?


----------



## zazzn

**UPDATE**

Used AMI dos utility to flash and override the check id. I now have a brick. I only updated the bios image using AFUdos.exe.

Anyways, can't post anymore







was able to post once and even started booting windows, but a restart later, nothing. Cleared the CMOS nothing just powers on then powers off immediately.

Ordered a spare BIOS chip from Ebay, if that doesn't work anyone have a spare chip or anyone local in the SF bay area want to let me use their machine to flash my chip back? Just need to swap the bios chip when a machine is already running to flash it correctly. (yes done this before)

Also on the side of the PCI -NVME problem with the 4th Dimm slot, asus support gave me the big F YOU. trying to get them to fix it. They "Escalated" my case but the engineering team told them no dice. Which is BS since they have the 2 newer bios's for the P67 LE which is virtually the same as the plain P8P67 except for no bluetooth and the LE has a VIA IDE UDMA port for the people that like stone age HDD's.


----------



## raisethe3

^^^Wait, I am not understanding quite what you're saying. Are you saying you try to flash your bios using the utility? What is override check id? I assume you didn't flash your bios in Windows? Did you check if its the proper bios for your hardware?


----------



## zazzn

Use I used AFUdos.exe to flash and override putting the wrong BIOS on to see if it would resolve my ram issue. Many of the P8p67 bios's are very similar and should work. In my case it didn't.

**Update**

So I have a new chip from Ebay, and I still can't boot. the machine will power on, and immediately power off no beeps no sounds.

Any suggestions? I cleared the Cleared the CMOS, and installed the new chip but doesn't seem to work.

Also pulled the board out of the case, had no ram and nothing hooked up except CPU and CPU cooler pump/fan (H110i corsair) no dice.

So damn strange, will the MOBO shutdown if it detects no CPU fan? I'm wondering if the fans are reporting to the bios.

What's really strange is after I flashed the wrong Bios on purpose, I was able to boot one time until windows BSOD and then it hung at the Bios start screen. Colding booting the machine brought me into the situation i'm in now.

I guessing I killed it some how, but there was no smoke no flames no issues, and I figured a new good bios from Ebay would solve my problems. I guess not?


----------



## hucklebuck

I just acquired this mobo with a i7 2600k. I am reading up on it but 900+ pages is going to take some time.

Can somebody help me? It has bios version 1502. Should I update it to the latest? If not which bios is best?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I just acquired this mobo with a i7 2600k. I am reading up on it but 900+ pages is going to take some time.
> 
> Can somebody help me? It has bios version 1502. Should I update it to the latest? If not which bios is best?


Updating to the latest BIOS has proven to be a little risky in that, you could end up with greater difficulty overclocking. So, I don't think I would go for the *latest* BIOS, but maybe a slightly newer one. Which motherboard do you have? This thread is for the entire series.


----------



## hucklebuck

P8P67 evo


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> P8P67 evo


Oh wait, I think version 1502 is just fine actually. I'm sorry. I wasn't thinking. It's been a long time. I would say you're good to go.


----------



## hucklebuck

I installed Windows 7 and it worked for a day and got corrupt and won't boot, so I'm starting over. What are some good settings to go by in the bios. I was using the settings that the board came with. Or should I just load optimized default.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I installed Windows 7 and it worked for a day and got corrupt and won't boot, so I'm starting over. What are some good settings to go by in the bios. I was using the settings that the board came with. Or should I just load optimized default.


Optimized defaults, especially if the board is used. You might even want to just reset the CMOS completely.


----------



## davidm71

These boards are very hackintoshable. Recommend you give that a try.


----------



## moogleslam

Hi guys,

I bought the P8P67 Deluxe as soon as it came out, and inevitably ended up with the Cougar Point 3Gb SATA Port Issue. I used it for a couple of years with no issue, but eventually sent it back to ASUS for a replacement before the warranty ran out. New one arrived, I installed, and didn't think much of it.

Today I am losing my mind because I meant to do a search on these forums for my monitor PG348Q, but instead did a search for my motherboard P8P67. Anyway, I stumbled on this thread by accident, and was reminded about the SATA issue, and I saw you could verify you have a good board via CPU-Z. I've overclocked a lot of the years, so have run CPU-Z many times, but never thought to check this before. Anyway, I fired up CPU-Z, and my Stepping is B2. B2?!?!? ..... They sent me one back that isn't a B3?

Before I go yell at ASUS, is there a chance that they just repaired my old board, rather than replacing it? Can I verify that? What should I do?

Thanks


----------



## davidm71

I would just get a new motherboard. Way back when I didn't chance it and sold mine at a loss and got the Z68 model instead. Though if your not having issues don't worry about it.


----------



## Cerbul

Hi guys,

I will try to keep it as short as possible, though is a long and painful story.
Bought long ago an Asus P8Z68-V with an I5-2500k and 2x2gb corsair ram which I upgraded later to 2x4 gb Ram Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9. Obviously, not knowing what to do, I did not enable XMP profile but I left the ram running at 1600 mhz without enabling it. I also noticed that my usb3.0 slots turn off after a while and come back on after 1 or more seconds. I ended up using only the usb 2.0 slots. After a while my psu failed, leaving my GTX680 running with a single power cord. I replaced it with a Seasonic Gseries 650w which finally runs fine and most of the stuttering in CS GO disappeared. However, changing the psu didn't solve all the stuttering and hitreg issues, and I started to research is seriously, until I found the XMP profile problem. Most of the hitreg issues disappeared when I changed to XMP profile but I still had to put manually my ram at 1600 mhz from bios, even if XMP was showing clearly that it uses 9-9-9-24-2T at 1.5 volts. Ram voltage was showing 1.5 volts but it still doesn;t work correctly, according to the hitreg ingame which seems to be really sensible to this aspect. I then put my ram to test. Memtest didn;t show any errors at all no matter what slot I used and if I used them with 1600 mhz without xmp, 1300 mhz normal, or 1333 with xmp. No matter what I did no errors showed.

However, I went at work with my ram, and I used it in a computer which has an Asus p6TSE motherboard with an I7-920 processor, and it was showing also 1.3v voltage next to 1.5v in my bios when I selected XMP profile. I tested the ram back at home at 1.3v and it still felt the same. One thing though, even if I let the ram voltage on auto and was correctly selecting 1.5 volts as it stated on the dimm itself, I still could feel is not working as well as with putting manually 1.5 volts in there. Is almost as if the ram was not really keeping 1.5v unless I told him specifically to do so. And yes, it was showing 1.52-1.53 v but I doubt it is the problem. I then brought home from work 3 dims of TR3X6G1600C9 and I only used 2 for dual channel in testing. They are rated on the sticker as being 1.65v but my bios if I don't put this value manually in there, it will only use 1.5v. I must say that I got bios version 3603 on my Asus P8Z68, which according to asus website is the latest bios. I noticed that at 1.5v they were not working correctly. I upped the voltage to 1.65 manually and now I can say that cs go is running as close to perfection as I could ever felt in my entire life. However, the computer hangs like once every 8-48 house, so is pretty random. I should probably try the other dim, maybe one is unable to hold 1.65v.

The ram that I own (not the one from work), no matter what I did, it could not give the same results in cs go as the work ram could, and my guess would be that is either the XMP profile of this ram being incorrect, or maybe there are some timings/voltages that needs to be put manually, or I don;t even know what else to set in bios in order to make sure I get perfect hitreg in cs go. Something is definitely wrong, as I am extremely aware of how my hitreg should be and how the timings of the ram affect recoil recovery, movement recovery timings, and how the game feels when using one ram or the other.

Is there anyone kind enough to help me figure out what should be done to obtain correct results with my ram? What should I double check in bios settings, or what should be my secondary or tertiary settings on my ram timings when I am using this motherboard, or how should I configure it to allow my ram to run correctly and obtain similar hitreg as I obtain with the ram which I brought from work, and that I run at 1.65volts as stated on the dim itself instead of the default bios setting of 1.5 volts.
Please help...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cerbul*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I will try to keep it as short as possible, though is a long and painful story.
> Bought long ago an Asus P8Z68-V with an I5-2500k and 2x2gb corsair ram which I upgraded later to 2x4 gb Ram Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9. Obviously, not knowing what to do, I did not enable XMP profile but I left the ram running at 1600 mhz without enabling it. I also noticed that my usb3.0 slots turn off after a while and come back on after 1 or more seconds. I ended up using only the usb 2.0 slots. After a while my psu failed, leaving my GTX680 running with a single power cord. I replaced it with a Seasonic Gseries 650w which finally runs fine and most of the stuttering in CS GO disappeared. However, changing the psu didn't solve all the stuttering and hitreg issues, and I started to research is seriously, until I found the XMP profile problem. Most of the hitreg issues disappeared when I changed to XMP profile but I still had to put manually my ram at 1600 mhz from bios, even if XMP was showing clearly that it uses 9-9-9-24-2T at 1.5 volts. Ram voltage was showing 1.5 volts but it still doesn;t work correctly, according to the hitreg ingame which seems to be really sensible to this aspect. I then put my ram to test. Memtest didn;t show any errors at all no matter what slot I used and if I used them with 1600 mhz without xmp, 1300 mhz normal, or 1333 with xmp. No matter what I did no errors showed.
> 
> However, I went at work with my ram, and I used it in a computer which has an Asus p6TSE motherboard with an I7-920 processor, and it was showing also 1.3v voltage next to 1.5v in my bios when I selected XMP profile. I tested the ram back at home at 1.3v and it still felt the same. One thing though, even if I let the ram voltage on auto and was correctly selecting 1.5 volts as it stated on the dimm itself, I still could feel is not working as well as with putting manually 1.5 volts in there. Is almost as if the ram was not really keeping 1.5v unless I told him specifically to do so. And yes, it was showing 1.52-1.53 v but I doubt it is the problem. I then brought home from work 3 dims of TR3X6G1600C9 and I only used 2 for dual channel in testing. They are rated on the sticker as being 1.65v but my bios if I don't put this value manually in there, it will only use 1.5v. I must say that I got bios version 3603 on my Asus P8Z68, which according to asus website is the latest bios. I noticed that at 1.5v they were not working correctly. I upped the voltage to 1.65 manually and now I can say that cs go is running as close to perfection as I could ever felt in my entire life. However, the computer hangs like once every 8-48 house, so is pretty random. I should probably try the other dim, maybe one is unable to hold 1.65v.
> 
> The ram that I own (not the one from work), no matter what I did, it could not give the same results in cs go as the work ram could, and my guess would be that is either the XMP profile of this ram being incorrect, or maybe there are some timings/voltages that needs to be put manually, or I don;t even know what else to set in bios in order to make sure I get perfect hitreg in cs go. Something is definitely wrong, as I am extremely aware of how my hitreg should be and how the timings of the ram affect recoil recovery, movement recovery timings, and how the game feels when using one ram or the other.
> 
> Is there anyone kind enough to help me figure out what should be done to obtain correct results with my ram? What should I double check in bios settings, or what should be my secondary or tertiary settings on my ram timings when I am using this motherboard, or how should I configure it to allow my ram to run correctly and obtain similar hitreg as I obtain with the ram which I brought from work, and that I run at 1.65volts as stated on the dim itself instead of the default bios setting of 1.5 volts.
> Please help...


Wow. This one is over my head, but I am worried that I might be the only active person left in this thread, so I'll see what I can do.

In no specific order, let's just start with something simple I guess. Make sure the memory modules are in the blue slots.

If the memory *IS* in the blue slots, then I wonder if maybe something is wrong with the CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 kit. I mean, I wonder if it's just defective. It's on ASUS's memory support list for this motherboard, so we know that they tested it and found it to work perfectly, so I don't know.

I don't want to say too much more because I'm really not sure. I'm even wondering if it's something even weirder, like maybe you need to set a high VCCIO voltage (this is supposedly the voltage for the Integrated Memory Controller). I needed a high VCCIO voltage, but it's not because of the problems that you're facing. Instead, I needed a high VCCIO voltage because I couldn't get my CPU stable at 4.7-4.8 GHz no matter what and the good people in this thread at the time recommended a high VCCIO voltage. Mine is currently at 1.17500V. Back when I set this, I remember being told that 1.20V is the maximum recommended limit for 24/7 use, and I think I was told to start at around 1.15V and go from there - I think.

Beyond all this, I really don't know what else I can say or recommend or anything. I don't play CS:GO, so I don't really even know what you're talking about unfortunately. Like, I'd have to go learn what "hitreg" is.


----------



## Cerbul

I've been reading around that I need to keep all the settings that mean power saving off so that I make sure I get the maximum out of my rig and that I am not in a situation where the things I experience is a result of power saving features. Then I've been reading that is a good idea to not overclock my rig at all. However, even if I did test with the TPU switch off I was getting really poor results overall with my computer. Stuttering everywhere. I concluded that I need to keep TPU switch ON and disable turbo boost, disabled c-states.

However, I disabled automatic overclocking from bios, I kept BCLK on 100.0, ram at 1600 mhz manually and cpu at 3.7 ghz manually. I am not sure if I am wrong setting it at 3.7 ghz or not, but I don't seem to find any improvement in the ram compartment by setting it to default 3.3 ghz. (initially I thought it was reaching 3.7ghz in windows with turbo boost off and 3.3 ghz from bios, but I was wrong..)

Here are the voltages that I get from the AI Tweaker screen:

CPU Voltage: 1.15V (offset mode+) /1.148 alternating between those 2 values
Dram Voltage: 1.656 though I set it manually to 1.65 /alternating to 1.653V
VCCIO Voltage: 1.056V / 1.059
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.793V
PCH Voltage: 1.056V / 1.050V

I did put my ram into the blue slots, as recommended in the user manual.
I found reading a few threads that may need to up the VCCIO Voltage to 1.15 when using 1.65v ram.
I cannot say that anything improved yet, too early to tell. But what is strange is why 2 slots of the same ram, the corsair vengeance behave exactly the same, and neither gives errors with memtest.
Hit reg in cs go is hit registration. There is a debate regarding HPET modification to fix clock drift which is a deviation of the client clock which causes some inconsistencies in the way the server is handling your hits. Now the problem is that I now believe that if someone is using a different than default HPET configuration and gains better results then is a matter of hardware problems. I had that exact issue and I was able to get it back to having the default better by replacing my psu. Now the problems that remained have to do with how the game handles minor imperfections of the client clock which seems to have something to do with ram. The only way I could affect this aspect was messing around with ram, especially that I managed to make it very close to perfection by using a different set of ram modules. I will get a third set of ram modules and test with that ones too, to see if I get good results or not. But my guess is that it has something to do with how motherboard sets timings/voltages when a specific ram is present. Considering that it defaults to 1.5v no matter what modules I was using so far, it makes sense to beleive that there are more many settings that are not set correctly. However, the fact that my ram from home computer is rated 1.5v I felt confident assuming that it used correct settings. However, there is a strong chance that it was default to 1.5v and no other settings were correctly set. I would like to find someone else with this type of ram and telling me the settings it has.


----------



## Mikuni

Hi, I have a P8Z68-V Pro. Does anyone know if this mobo supports UEFI 2.3.1 with "EFI_STORAGE_SECURITY_COMMAND_PROTOCOL"?

Apparently this is required to make use of eDrive (hardware encryption in SSD with SED through Bitlocker), and I haven't been able to make it work after several days of trying everything I could find about this. My SSD is a Samsung 850 EVO.


----------



## d3v0

I am in the market for a ram upgrade, looking simply to go to the fastest configuration of 2x8. I have been hitting 95% ram utilization while streaming and its affecting performance (getting 40 frames per second playing borderlands 2, with a GTX 970!). Should I just grab a set of G.Skill or Corsair sticks at 2133? or is 2133 problematic with this old motherboard?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> I am in the market for a ram upgrade, looking simply to go to the fastest configuration of 2x8. I have been hitting 95% ram utilization while streaming and its affecting performance (getting 40 frames per second playing borderlands 2, with a GTX 970!). Should I just grab a set of G.Skill or Corsair sticks at 2133? or is 2133 problematic with this old motherboard?


It would be cheaper to go with DDR3-1866 and you really wouldn't be missing out on much because DDR3-1866 is kind of where the diminishing returns begin for Sandy Bridge.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/memory/2011/01/11/the-best-memory-for-sandy-bridge/1

The recommended amount of memory for Borderlands 2 is only 2 GB though.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It would be cheaper to go with DDR3-1866 and you really wouldn't be missing out on much because DDR3-1866 is kind of where the diminishing returns begin for Sandy Bridge.
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/memory/2011/01/11/the-best-memory-for-sandy-bridge/1
> 
> The recommended amount of memory for Borderlands 2 is only 2 GB though.


I only seem to have ram utilization issues while running instances of Xsplit broadcaster + chrome windows + discord app + X game. Sitting here now, it is at 64%.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> I only seem to have ram utilization issues while running instances of Xsplit broadcaster + chrome windows + discord app + X game. Sitting here now, it is at 64%.


Oh.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh.
> 
> Do you have a Page File?


I do have a pagefile, it is set at 8167MB.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> I do have a pagefile, it is set at 8167MB.


Well, you could spend money on a new kit or you could always just close everything before launching a game, especially Chrome.

*Edit:* I guess those other programs are needed if you want to stream. Still, how much memory is Chrome using on your computer?


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, you could spend money on a new kit or you could always just close everything before launching a game, especially Chrome.
> 
> *Edit:* I guess those other programs are needed if you want to stream. Still, how much memory is Chrome using on your computer?


I cant believe prices these days! I havent bought new components (besides gfx card) since Jan of 2013. Chrome is using alot, about 1-2GB with enough tabs open. Looks like Xsplit is taking up at least 0.5GB. I have basically 2GB free before opening a game.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> I cant believe prices these days! I havent bought new components (besides gfx card) since Jan of 2013. Chrome is using alot, about 1-2GB with enough tabs open. Looks like Xsplit is taking up at least 0.5GB. I have basically 2GB free before opening a game.


I would try closing Chrome and anything else that might be running that you really don't need.


----------



## skads

I have the P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 model, and finally looking to install win10. I have raid1 configured (no OS on them, OS will be re-installed on a separate SSD) , Im assuming if I install win10, it should not break my raid1 config? and Im assuming the Intel software can be installed easily afterwards to view the raid status from windows?

Any other tips going to win10 with this model?
much appreciated.


----------



## Cerbul

As I stated in the previous posts I have a P8Z68-V motherboard yet I find it really frustrating that every time I change a setting is BIOS my cs go game feeling changes. I had Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 ram which caused extremely poor bullet registration and bad recovery timings in cs go, yet the game feels closer to what it should feel like when using Corsair TR3X6G1600C9.

I also feel like game is totally wrong when using something other then 3,7 ghz on my i5-2500k.
I also feel like game is changing when toggling settings like pll overvoltage, cpu capability, cpu spread spectrum, xmp/1600 mhz at ram.
But no matter what settings I test, i can still feel that something is off. I bought a new cooler as my cpu was staying at 70 degrees on load, and now is at 55-58 on load.

Please, can anyone sugest some standard settings that will make this motherboard give correct capabilities like any other motherboard, cause the way it seems at the moment, every setting affects something and makes it non standard. Setting everything on default again is bad and is not compatible with this game, and since the game is so sensitive to those aspects, it makes the aiming inconsistent and timings for aiming recovery off, and I experience many other problems which should not be happening if this motherboard would provide correct data.

I know that I had my psu broken at some point and that it might have affected my motherboard, however, can anyone advice where to get a i5-2500k lga 1155 compatible motherboard that is new and working correctly? This in case that no one can sugest a set of settings for bios that will stabilize the motherboard.


----------



## hucklebuck

I am getting overheating issues all of a sudden with this MB and a I7 2600k. CPU temps are getting to 90. I am running xmp profile, so I changed it to optimized defaults and it still happens. I have an H60 cooling the cpu and in the bios it shows it's 4300 rpm's. Is it possible that this cooler is going bad somehow?

What is a decent air cooler for this MB cpu combo? I don't want to spend alot.


----------



## paulkemp

Hi pps. I got this mobo the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 used and are having huge issues getting it to boot. The issue is with the "mem ok" led blinking red. Machine is stuck in boot loop for eternity it seems like. I let it try for 30 mins last night. I have pressed the mem ok button when the machine is off. It starts up, but keeps on rebooting searching for the correct settings. If I take out all the RAM, it starts just fine. I have tried a combination of Hynix and Corsair ram to no avail.

I now have in my hand a single stick of Samsung RAM, M378B5273BH1-CF*9*, where M378B5273BH1-CF8 is actually supported follwing the QVL list. Im at work and have not tried this. I had my hopes for more than 4gb memory in this machine.

Ram tried:
4 x Hynix 4GB PC3-12800 DDR3- 1600MHz non-ECC
2 x Corsair Vengance DDR3 DRAM 1600MHz C9
Edit: 1x Samsung RAM mention above. Dont work either









None of the RAM tested are on the qualified vendor list, BUT that has never been a concern to me in the past. Not even with Macs! The 2x8 RAM is a bigger issue, as very few 8 gb's are suported if i follow the QVL.

*Troubleshooting steps:*
Pused RAM into slots hard several times. They click into place.
Booted machine w/o RAM: Boots ok.

Q: Do I really have to follow the QVLs with a magnifying glass to make the machine boot?!?
Q: Can it be something else? A dud mobo or some error on my part assembling? Note that machine boots w/o ram just fine.

*Intro*
I am making a plex server, mostly out of used parts (CPU, RAM and mobo, HDDs) Some equipment is mine (1/2 RAM, CPU, PSU) and some is bought for this project (mobo, 1/2 RAM). Only the cabinet is bought for this proeject.
Mobo ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
CPU Intel i7 3770

Lists:
QVL 8 GB ram.zip
QVL RAM.zip


----------



## paulkemp

I have to take an 2nd look at my socket, and clean it with some jewelry tools.







Wish me luck.


----------



## raisethe3

^^Good luck! Have you tried testing the board with 1 memory stick (closest to the cpu)? What do you get on your screen? It could be a dud, perhaps try an RMA? LMK.


----------



## paulkemp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> ^^Good luck! Have you tried testing the board with 1 memory stick (closest to the cpu)? What do you get on your screen? It could be a dud, perhaps try an RMA? LMK.


Yeah, in regards to ram, i have tried 3 different types. None of them are on the official QVL, but all within normal range of Mhz and timings. All in one slot. The A1 slot, is the first blue one, so not the closest one to the cpu. The 2nd closest.

Thats the thing, its gotten 2nd hand so a RMA is not possible :/


----------



## TwoCables

This is the risk you take when you buy memory that's not on the official list of supported memory. It could be that they tested the memory you have but found it to be incompatible. So, there are 2 reasons why memory wouldn't be on the list:

1. They tested it and found it to be incompatible

2. They haven't tested it yet


----------



## paulkemp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> This is the risk you take when you buy memory that's not on the official list of supported memory. It could be that they tested the memory you have but found it to be incompatible. So, there are 2 reasons why memory wouldn't be on the list:
> 
> 1. They tested it and found it to be incompatible
> 2. They haven't tested it yet


Yeah, but I've never experienced a machine that will not boot due to "unsupported" memory. Even on macs, that only have one type of mem on their QVL list, i had no issues with a low brand ram.

Some have told me that these Asus boards are very peculiar on what kind of ram it takes. But when looking through this thread, I dont find a lot of ppl that are having memory issues. So I dont know, it can be the mobo (or the socket) or the ram is actually not supported, just like the user manual say.


----------



## raisethe3

paulkemp, just try getting a memory that's on the official QVL. That way, you can narrow down what's wrong, it could be the board itself.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkemp*
> 
> Hi pps. I got this mobo the ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 used and are having huge issues getting it to boot. The issue is with the "mem ok" led blinking red. Machine is stuck in boot loop for eternity it seems like. I let it try for 30 mins last night. I have pressed the mem ok button when the machine is off. It starts up, but keeps on rebooting searching for the correct settings. If I take out all the RAM, it starts just fine. I have tried a combination of Hynix and Corsair ram to no avail.
> 
> I now have in my hand a single stick of Samsung RAM, M378B5273BH1-CF*9*, where M378B5273BH1-CF8 is actually supported follwing the QVL list. Im at work and have not tried this. I had my hopes for more than 4gb memory in this machine.
> 
> Ram tried:
> 4 x Hynix 4GB PC3-12800 DDR3- 1600MHz non-ECC
> 2 x Corsair Vengance DDR3 DRAM 1600MHz C9
> Edit: 1x Samsung RAM mention above. Dont work either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> None of the RAM tested are on the qualified vendor list, BUT that has never been a concern to me in the past. Not even with Macs! The 2x8 RAM is a bigger issue, as very few 8 gb's are suported if i follow the QVL.
> 
> *Troubleshooting steps:*
> Pused RAM into slots hard several times. They click into place.
> Booted machine w/o RAM: Boots ok.
> 
> Q: Do I really have to follow the QVLs with a magnifying glass to make the machine boot?!?
> Q: Can it be something else? A dud mobo or some error on my part assembling? Note that machine boots w/o ram just fine.
> 
> *Intro*
> I am making a plex server, mostly out of used parts (CPU, RAM and mobo, HDDs) Some equipment is mine (1/2 RAM, CPU, PSU) and some is bought for this project (mobo, 1/2 RAM). Only the cabinet is bought for this proeject.
> Mobo ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
> CPU Intel i7 3770
> 
> Lists:
> QVL 8 GB ram.zip
> QVL RAM.zip


My own experience with a 775 socket was adata which didn't run but they were on the qvl list att, they called it a memory***** Asus Maximus Formula SE !Then i changed it to a crucial kit which were the best in this time for not only on this board in terms of OC !! After them i wanted 8GB but only mushkin did that for me but weren't so good in terms of response time or even OC...it worked good but not as good as with the crucial's.

The experience i had with 4 or up to 5 1155 socket based Asus P8 boards was and is running good with crucial and kingston memory .
A bro of mine does a good job on nearly a few 100 pc's a month,he always claims that the memory is even sometimes a lottery but in favor of compatibility he said stay with kingston and your fine .

cheers fox


----------



## borderline13

Hi All,

Please help! Bought a ASUS P8P67 PRO recently and temporarily fitted a GT 640 graphics card to get it up and running and all was fine. Then I bought and fitted a HD 7870 but there was no video output and the VGA LED stayed lit. Thinking the card was faulty I returned it (shop later confirmed it was working). Then bought a R9 270X which worked perfectly and I was happy again. Used this for a while with no problems then happened to pick up a cheap GTX 960. Fitted this and no video and VGA LED lit again! Tried it in a couple of other computers and it worked fine. Fitted it to my second PCI-E slot and it worked albeit at x8 speed. Tried my son's HD 7850 in the first slot again and no video.

So, using the first PCI-E slot this is what happens:

BIOS reset each time and suitable power supplied to cards as needed

GT640 Works
HD7870 Not Working
R9 270X Works
GTX960 Not Working
HD7850 Not working

All cards work in other computers so no faults with them. I'd like to keep using the GTX960 in the x16 slot if possible.

Any Ideas?


----------



## TwoCables

What is the exact model of your power supply?


----------



## borderline13

Aero Cool Integrator 600W 80+ PSU


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borderline13*
> 
> Aero Cool Integrator 600W 80+ PSU


Well that's not bad. KitGuru seems to think it's ok: https://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/aerocool-integrator-600-watt-psu-review/7/

So the only question I can think of at the moment is, did you make sure each video card had the PCI-E connectors connected to the PSU? I apologize for asking such a basic question. I know that such basic questions can be a bit insulting to one's intelligence, but I feel it's good to get these things out of the way.


----------



## borderline13

The PSU should be OK as it was used when testing the cards in other computers too as it has the 6+2 and 6 pin connectors needed for the GTX960. And yes I did check the PCI-E connectors and once when trying the GTX960 in a machine that didn't have a 6+2 connector it politely reminded me on screen I hadn't plugged the power connectors in correctly but at least it had an output just using the 75watts from the PCI lane!

Using the GTX960, as I am now, it's performance is about 2-3% down on benchmark scores due to the PCI-E x8 I guess but it's frustrating not being able to use x16 and the position of the card now is not great for airflow. It's totally baffling me why some cards work and some don't. You'd think if the PCI-E lane was faulty it would act the same for all cards.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borderline13*
> 
> The PSU should be OK as it was used when testing the cards in other computers too as it has the 6+2 and 6 pin connectors needed for the GTX960. And yes I did check the PCI-E connectors and once when trying the GTX960 in a machine that didn't have a 6+2 connector it politely reminded me on screen I hadn't plugged the power connectors in correctly but at least it had an output just using the 75watts from the PCI lane!
> 
> Using the GTX960, as I am now, it's performance is about 2-3% down on benchmark scores due to the PCI-E x8 I guess but it's frustrating not being able to use x16 and the position of the card now is not great for airflow. It's totally baffling me why some cards work and some don't. You'd think if the PCI-E lane was faulty it would act the same for all cards.


Maybe there really aren't enough PCI-E lanes for those cards that aren't working, but I don't know what you can do to free them up.


----------



## Catscratch

Ackk, the blue usb3 slots on the back of my p8p67 evo restarted my pc today. Didn't recognize a usb and when I removed the stick, pooof.


----------



## gt3911

Okay guys please dont laugh at me too hard. My board has been an absolute dream over the years just doing what I need her to do.

However, this weekend I believe my gpu has began to fail on me. Short version as it's not really relevant here - I got a couple of screen cycles with driver had to restart popups in the system tray, which soon became more frequent and took 5mins plus to get back to action to lots of crazy colours on the screen, to now, well 10 mins ago where it seems to boot in 2 ways 1 trys to load nvidia drivers and i get black screen, 2 doesn't bother loading them, I get 800x600 res device manager shows it as not installed and the system works fine, no issues at all. No changes have occurred my end, apart from trying some older nvidia drivers to see if I could escape the issue. I feel like the way its got worse quickly is a gpu issue apparently when the driver isn't loaded or it's in safe mode half of the chipset is disabled which is why it works. As I wasn't prepared for this I'd rather avoid a re-install of windows as a last option. I've given my card to a friend to test, I'm hesitant this might just be the TDR issue.

Until then - I thought, hey! we have a OK onboard card, lets use that to get the files backed up / use the machine until testing is done. I plugged my monitor into the onboard DVI and was getting no display output. Very reluctantly I figured I neeeded to do a bios rest to try and get it to look at onboard. Still no luck. Until one time where I got output but missed the del button in time! weird it worked once? So I did a reset again, nothing.. repeat x10 output, missed it ha. 10x reset nothing. GRRR. I then thought forget the reset just power on/off

Oddly... 1 in 15avg tries gets me a output to my monitor? Do I need to set initiate graphic adopter to igpu only? after the resets it's on pci/igpu - there is no card in the system right now. I assumed it would default to onboard quite fine? Something I'm missing? Any ideas to help a noob out would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## d3v0

This week, I plug in my new in box, freshly delidded 3770K. Time to upgrade the sig with some more cores. Anyone ever overclock a 3770k on this board?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> This week, I plug in my new in box, freshly delidded 3770K. Time to upgrade the sig with some more cores. Anyone ever overclock a 3770k on this board?


Which board? This thread is for the entire series. If you mean the P8Z68V-PRO in your sig rig, then I think so, yeah. I think many have on here. It will need the latest BIOS though.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Which board? This thread is for the entire series. If you mean the P8Z68V-PRO in your sig rig, then I think so, yeah. I think many have on here. It will need the latest BIOS though.


Yes, I am running a P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 board, and have the most recent bios installed. Really excited to get started! Friday is the day. I wonder if there is much of a difference between ivy and sandy overclocking on this board, or if there are any particular settings I should look out for to help with stability, etc beyond what I would usually pay attention to with the 2500K.

Edit: Search function helps








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Really, I would have been fine with the Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3. No problem using it with a 3770K and 3570K, as I have tried it with both and it has worked just fine.
> 
> Note: *BIOS setting between sandy and ivy is mainly a lower vcore for the ivy - most, if not all, other settings are the same IIRC*.


^^ is what i wanted to see!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Yes, I am running a P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 board, and have the most recent bios installed. Really excited to get started! Friday is the day. I wonder if there is much of a difference between ivy and sandy overclocking on this board, or if there are any particular settings I should look out for to help with stability, etc beyond what I would usually pay attention to with the 2500K.
> 
> Edit: Search function helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^ is what i wanted to see!


Whether that's true depends on your particular Ivy Bridge CPU. Some require similar voltages to Sandy Bridge and will have similar temps. Others require much less voltage. You have to experiment, but I recommend being cautious and starting with a very low core voltage, like say roughly 1.15V for 4.5 GHz and then go from there.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Whether that's true depends on your particular Ivy Bridge CPU. Some require similar voltages to Sandy Bridge and will have similar temps. Others require much less voltage. You have to experiment, but I recommend being cautious and starting with a very low core voltage, like say roughly 1.15V for 4.5 GHz and then go from there.


Understood. Would your answer change at all if I told you it was delidded and stock TIM replaced with liquid metal?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Understood. Would your answer change at all if I told you it was delidded and stock TIM replaced with liquid metal?


No because that doesn't change what voltage the CPU requires.


----------



## d3v0

After a boatload of drama, I have it installed.

Lets get started. What do you guys use for stability testing nowadays? I heard P95 has fallen out of favor.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> After a boatload of drama, I have it installed.
> 
> Lets get started. What do you guys use for stability testing nowadays? I heard P95 has fallen out of favor.


Prime95 has only fallen out of favor with CPUs newer than Ivy Bridge because of the much higher temperatures. Nothing has changed for Sandy and Ivy Bridge.


----------



## d3v0

perfect. thus far I have worked my way up from 1.1v 4.0ghz to testing at 4.4ghz with 1.15v. Couldnt get past Bsods with anything less than 1.14 so far at 4.4ghz. Load temps are still under 70.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> perfect. thus far I have worked my way up from 1.1v 4.0ghz to testing at 4.4ghz with 1.15v. Couldnt get past Bsods with anything less than 1.14 so far at 4.4ghz. Load temps are still under 70.


70 isn't a limit though. What are your temps at 1.15V for 4.4 GHz?


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> 70 isn't a limit though. What are your temps at 1.15V for 4.4 GHz?


One core hits 68c, the rest are in the mid 60s.

As far as other settings, I am treating it like I did when I overclocked by SB 2500k. Everything on auto at first, then using BSOD numbers to try and figure out whats causing instability. Thus far, vcore is still helping. Everything is auto at the moment, except I have Speedstep off.


----------



## d3v0

Figured more people want results than minor explanations so, here we go!

*4.0Ghz @ 1.1v - Pass Prime95 blend for 10 mins (23c/59c)
4.2Ghz @ 1.1v - Pass Prime95 blend for 10 mins (28c/60c)
4.3Ghz @ 1.1v - Pass Prime95 blend for 10 mins (26c/62c)*
4.4Ghz @ 1.1v - BSOD 7F
4.4Ghz @ 1.11v - Post, failed to load windows
4.4Ghz @ 1.12v - Post, 0x000000A BSOD
4.4Ghz @ 1.13v - Fail Prime 95 blend after 10 seconds (25c/60c)
4.4Ghz @ 1.14v - BSOD 0x0000007F Prime95 Blend 5 minutes (25c/65c)
4.4Ghz @ 1.15v - Fail Prime95 Blend after 8 minutes (26c/68c)
*4.4Ghz @ 1.16 - Pass Prime95 Blend for 10 mins (26c/69c)*
4.5Ghz @ 1.16v - BSOD 0x0000001A in windows
4.5Ghz @ 1.17v - BSOD 0x00000019 in windows
4.5Ghz @ 1.18v - Fail Prime95 Blend after 20 seconds (26c/64c)
4.5Ghz @ 1.19v - Fail Prime95 Blend after 1:15 (25c/70c)
4.5Ghz @ 1.20v - Fail Prime 95 after 8:01 (25c/71c)
*4.5Ghz @ 1.21v - Pass Prime95 Blend for 10 mins (29c/72c)*
4.6Ghz @ 1.22v - Post, Windows Explore/programs stop responding
4.6Ghz @ 1.23v - Post, BSOD 0x0000001E
4.6Ghz @ 1.24v - Fail Prime95 blend after 30 seconds (28c/72c)
4.6Ghz @ 1.25v - Fail Prime95 blend after 5 seconds (28c/73c)
4.6Ghz @ 1.26v - BSOD 0x0000003B Prime 95 Blend 1 minute (28c/80c) - Temps exploded here when the second FFT test loaded, then calm back down to 75c. Showing peak.
4.6Ghz @ 1.27v - BSOD 0x0000003B Prime 95 Blend 2 minutes (27c/82c) - Same temp issue as above.
4.6Ghz @ 1.28v - BSOD 0x0000003B Prime 95 Blend 5 minutes (27c/85c) - Same temp issue as above. Average temps are 77 on the hottest core.
4.6Ghz @ 1.29v - Pass Prime 95 10:00, fail before 30:00 (program stopped working. (30c/86c)
*4.6Ghz @ 1.30v - Aida64 Extreme Pass 10 hours (30c/87c) Peak temps are 87+/-*

Aida64 Program detected throtling once or twice during the test. but as I have sat here watching it for an hour or so, nothing throttled.


----------



## pc-illiterate

10 minutes isn't enough to find out much of anything. All you find out is you can pass 2-3 ffts. You'll need to run a lot longer.
If aida64 sees throttling, you need more volts somewhere.


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, and Prime95 *Blend* is what's best for Sandy and Ivy Bridge. Even better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Figured more people want results than minor explanations so, here we go!
> 
> *4.0Ghz @ 1.1v - Pass Prime95 blend for 10 mins (23c/59c)
> 4.2Ghz @ 1.1v - Pass Prime95 blend for 10 mins (28c/60c)
> 4.3Ghz @ 1.1v - Pass Prime95 blend for 10 mins (26c/62c)*
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.1v - BSOD 7F
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.11v - Post, failed to load windows
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.12v - Post, 0x000000A BSOD
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.13v - Fail Prime 95 blend after 10 seconds (25c/60c)
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.14v - BSOD 0x0000007F Prime95 Blend 5 minutes (25c/65c)
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.15v - Fail Prime95 Blend after 8 minutes (26c/68c)
> *4.4Ghz @ 1.16 - Pass Prime95 Blend for 10 mins (26c/69c)*
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.16v - BSOD 0x0000001A in windows
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.17v - BSOD 0x00000019 in windows
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.18v - Fail Prime95 Blend after 20 seconds (26c/64c)
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.19v - Fail Prime95 Blend after 1:15 (25c/70c)
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.20v - Fail Prime 95 after 8:01 (25c/71c)
> *4.5Ghz @ 1.21v - Pass Prime95 Blend for 10 mins (29c/72c)*
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.22v - Post, Windows Explore/programs stop responding
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.23v - Post, BSOD 0x0000001E
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.24v - Fail Prime95 blend after 30 seconds (28c/72c)
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.25v - Fail Prime95 blend after 5 seconds (28c/73c)
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.26v - BSOD 0x0000003B Prime 95 Blend 1 minute (28c/80c) - Temps exploded here when the second FFT test loaded, then calm back down to 75c. Showing peak.
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.27v - BSOD 0x0000003B Prime 95 Blend 2 minutes (27c/82c) - Same temp issue as above.
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.28v - BSOD 0x0000003B Prime 95 Blend 5 minutes (27c/85c) - Same temp issue as above. Average temps are 77 on the hottest core.
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.29v - Pass Prime 95 10:00, fail before 30:00 (program stopped working. (30c/86c)
> *4.6Ghz @ 1.30v - Aida64 Extreme Pass 10 hours (30c/87c) Peak temps are 87+/-*
> 
> Aida64 Program detected throtling once or twice during the test. but as I have sat here watching it for an hour or so, nothing throttled.


I'm sorry to say it, but I agree with pc-illiterate. I was going to say so anyway. Prime95 is far better than Aida64. Prime95's "Blend" test is the best of the 3 presets, but if you select "Custom" while "Blend" is selected, then you get the very best possible stability test that we call "Custom Blend". With this, you choose how much memory Prime95 uses, and the best amount is equal to about 80 to 85% of your installed memory. For you, that would be 13,107.2 MB to 13,926.4 MB. Or we can just say 13000 to 14000MB. It doesn't have to be super exact. If your system can remain stable enough to avoid Prime95 errors or BSODs or lock-ups for the entire duration of the test (it should take 5-7 hours), then you can declare your system to be stable. However, you will have to know for sure that your system has done ALL of the FFTs. You'll see in the Prime95 log that it began to repeat the first FFT it did (it started over from the beginning).

The fact that it failed just before 30 minutes tells me that you still have a long way to go before you can declare your system to be stable.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Figured more people want results than minor explanations so, here we go!
> 
> *4.0Ghz @ 1.1v - Pass Prime95 blend for 10 mins (23c/59c)
> 4.2Ghz @ 1.1v - Pass Prime95 blend for 10 mins (28c/60c)
> 4.3Ghz @ 1.1v - Pass Prime95 blend for 10 mins (26c/62c)*
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.1v - BSOD 7F
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.11v - Post, failed to load windows
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.12v - Post, 0x000000A BSOD
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.13v - Fail Prime 95 blend after 10 seconds (25c/60c)
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.14v - BSOD 0x0000007F Prime95 Blend 5 minutes (25c/65c)
> 4.4Ghz @ 1.15v - Fail Prime95 Blend after 8 minutes (26c/68c)
> *4.4Ghz @ 1.16 - Pass Prime95 Blend for 10 mins (26c/69c)*
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.16v - BSOD 0x0000001A in windows
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.17v - BSOD 0x00000019 in windows
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.18v - Fail Prime95 Blend after 20 seconds (26c/64c)
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.19v - Fail Prime95 Blend after 1:15 (25c/70c)
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.20v - Fail Prime 95 after 8:01 (25c/71c)
> *4.5Ghz @ 1.21v - Pass Prime95 Blend for 10 mins (29c/72c)*
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.22v - Post, Windows Explore/programs stop responding
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.23v - Post, BSOD 0x0000001E
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.24v - Fail Prime95 blend after 30 seconds (28c/72c)
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.25v - Fail Prime95 blend after 5 seconds (28c/73c)
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.26v - BSOD 0x0000003B Prime 95 Blend 1 minute (28c/80c) - Temps exploded here when the second FFT test loaded, then calm back down to 75c. Showing peak.
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.27v - BSOD 0x0000003B Prime 95 Blend 2 minutes (27c/82c) - Same temp issue as above.
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.28v - BSOD 0x0000003B Prime 95 Blend 5 minutes (27c/85c) - Same temp issue as above. Average temps are 77 on the hottest core.
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.29v - Pass Prime 95 10:00, fail before 30:00 (program stopped working. (30c/86c)
> *4.6Ghz @ 1.30v - Aida64 Extreme Pass 10 hours (30c/87c) Peak temps are 87+/-*
> 
> Aida64 Program detected throtling once or twice during the test. but as I have sat here watching it for an hour or so, nothing throttled.


I wonder hows your airflow doing or is that H50 bad? When I had 2500k @4.5GHz with offset voltage spiking 1.4v sometimes (pretty bad lottery ticket) it was reaching only 64c with aida64. I got thermalright extreme ultra 120 cooling it with one noctua fan on it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> I wonder hows your airflow doing or is that H50 bad? When I had 2500k @4.5GHz with offset voltage spiking 1.4v sometimes (pretty bad lottery ticket) it was reaching only 64c with aida64. I got thermalright extreme ultra 120 cooling it with one noctua fan on it.


He's overclocking a delidded 3770K.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> He's overclocking a delidded 3770K.


Ohh, my bad. I thought 2500k as I saw it in his rig below.


----------



## d3v0

Hey guys! Yeah I am still working on stability testing. I am moving back over to Prime 95 blend for my tests and will hit custom, as you mentioned two cables.

I have not yet touched any of my other settings. I am considering a PLL voltage tweak to 1.7 and disabling C3 and C6 reports. I might re-enable speedstep as well. In each case, since temps are under 90, I feel ok going ahead and running Blend FFTs again. I was just concerned going over 1.3v would make me go too far over 90. Thus, why i ran Aida64. These are per core temps, not "package" temps. The package temp is higher, but the core temps are individually all lower than the package.

During gaming of course its in the mid 70s. One annoying thing. No matter what I set the settings to in the bios, cpu fan spins up to 1600RPM at full CPU Load. its noisy, way noisier than it was with my 2500k.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Hey guys! Yeah I am still working on stability testing. I am moving back over to Prime 95 blend for my tests and will hit custom, as you mentioned two cables.
> 
> I have not yet touched any of my other settings. I am considering a PLL voltage tweak to 1.7 and disabling C3 and C6 reports. I might re-enable speedstep as well. In each case, since temps are under 90, I feel ok going ahead and running Blend FFTs again. I was just concerned going over 1.3v would make me go too far over 90. Thus, why i ran Aida64. These are per core temps, not "package" temps. The package temp is higher, but the core temps are individually all lower than the package.
> 
> During gaming of course its in the mid 70s. One annoying thing. No matter what I set the settings to in the bios, cpu fan spins up to 1600RPM at full CPU Load. its noisy, way noisier than it was with my 2500k.


It's funny, I've been here since December of 2008 and I still don't know what "package" temp means.

I can tell from your results that 1.3V is very high for this CPU. So, if you've ever seen anyone saying 1.3V and up is kind of on the very high side for Ivy Bridge, they're talking about CPUs like yours.  Some Ivy Bridge CPUs require similar voltages to Sandy Bridge though. It's odd.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's funny, I've been here since December of 2008 and I still don't know what "package" temp means.
> 
> I can tell from your results that 1.3V is very high for this CPU. So, if you've ever seen anyone saying 1.3V and up is kind of on the very high side for Ivy Bridge, they're talking about CPUs like yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some Ivy Bridge CPUs require similar voltages to Sandy Bridge though. It's odd.


Yeah, I havent ever been one to hit the silicon lottery, so its okay. I was hoping for better, since I am trying to dredge another 3 years of life out of this platform. I think I still can, though 4.6ghz isnt great. I think with some more work I can be really solid here, even if its a little toasty. I could always find a few degrees by improving my fans.

I am not terribly concerned with 1.3v. I know its safe up this high, and with it being delidded I am not concerned with temps. Since we are about the pursuit of performance here, I need to spend more time under the hood finding better stability at 4.6ghz, hopefully without having to go to 1.31v.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Yeah, I havent ever been one to hit the silicon lottery, so its okay. I was hoping for better, since I am trying to dredge another 3 years of life out of this platform. I think I still can, though 4.6ghz isnt great. I think with some more work I can be really solid here, even if its a little toasty. I could always find a few degrees by improving my fans.
> 
> I am not terribly concerned with 1.3v. I know its safe up this high, and with it being delidded I am not concerned with temps. Since we are about the pursuit of performance here, I need to spend more time under the hood finding better stability at 4.6ghz, hopefully without having to go to 1.31v.


4.6 GHz is fairly good for Ivy Bridge, but almost average for Sandy Bridge.


----------



## d3v0

I might need better cooling.


----------



## d3v0

This may seem like a silly question, but for you guys running an AIO on your P8z68v Pro Gen3, or similar motherboard, you are connecting it in the upper right hand corner, correct?

Also, I have the fan that pushes air through my H50 plugged into the "CPU" slot and no matter what CPU Q-setting in the bios, it runs at extremely high speed and noise at higher loads. I am considering plugging it in elsewhere, or using the included fan controller that came with my R5. What fan connectors do you guys use, or what fan settings to make this thing less noisy.


----------



## Altracomp

Hey there...
So most AIO pumps should be run at full speed. You can adjust the speed percentage through bios if the noise bothers you but I would be cautious.
The P8Z68/GEN3 has 2 CPU fan headers... Use "CPU_FAN" for the rad fan/fans and "CPU_FAN_OPT" for the pump with speed set to 100% or at least 80%.

So have you checked your TIM application?


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## d3v0

This seems really important.

At the moment I have the H50 plugged into "PWR_FAN"

And both of my fans in push pull. One is in "CPU_fan" (pull) and the other is in "CPU_fan_opt" My fans are always blazing and annoying. What's up?

Edit: Figured it out. The main fain plugged into CPU_OPT is a three pin and since CPU_OPT is 4 pin, it automatically runs it at max power. Which was way too fast and loud. Since the H50 pump fan is a 3 pin also, I plugged it into CPU_OPT so that it always runs at max power. My push/pull fans are now connected to CPU_FAN and PWR_Fan1 and its less noisy. Temps are okay too. I will reapply TIM when I get my new fans. I managed to snag 3x brand new Fractal GP12's for $8 each.


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## taoo7777

Hello!

Please, can anybody share the latest modified bios 3802 for Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 with latest OROMs/LAN/VGA and NVMe?
3-4 years before I think I can make it by myself, but now I have no time to researching with 2 little babies... =)

Thank you VERY much!

Marry Christmas and happy New Year!!!


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## Lab Rat

Hi, I have a p8p67 evo an wanting to add an m2 960 evo card with adaptor, has anyone managed to accomplish this as a boot drive with/without modding the bios?

Cheers


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## d3v0

Cranked up the vcore to 1.46v, and the fixed CPU frequency to 500. Temps are still 65-70c. Perfectly stable now. No crashes when gaming for any game. Since it passed the latest version of prime 95 for 16 hours at a lower vcore, I am sure this thing is ready to rock for the next two years of its short life. I am still planning to tweak a couple of things, but I think changing my ram timing from 1T to 2T really helped sort it out.

I am also considering a future drop of PLL voltage from 1.7 to 1.5 and staying around there to see if ivy likes the lower vcore there, which I have heard it does.


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## waltdanger

d3v0 said:


> Cranked up the vcore to 1.46v, and the fixed CPU frequency to 500. Temps are still 65-70c. Perfectly stable now. No crashes when gaming for any game. Since it passed the latest version of prime 95 for 16 hours at a lower vcore, I am sure this thing is ready to rock for the next two years of its short life. I am still planning to tweak a couple of things, but I think changing my ram timing from 1T to 2T really helped sort it out.
> 
> I am also considering a future drop of PLL voltage from 1.7 to 1.5 and staying around there to see if ivy likes the lower vcore there, which I have heard it does.


Well I think my board is dying.

I've been trying to get UEFI to work with my video card (7870 Myst, which should support it). After flashing numerous video bioses and never getting past a black screen/unlit keyboard when EFI Option Rom was enabled in BIOS, I decided to give up. I reset my CMOS due to black screen problem, but it isn't showing my integrated graphics anymore (the menu option for IGFX is gone). I also noticed it now detects my 16GB of RAM as 8GB, and even worse, my 2500K has a LOCKED multiplier (won't let me set above 33, I was stable at 45 +0.060 votes for 6 years). It won't boot with no external video card (red light by the slot), and with it, the IGFX options in BIOS are gone.

I verified all sticks of RAM I have are functioning one-at-a-time (besides, it would be odd for 2 sticks to just die). But if all four are in, the red MemTest light comes on. The RAM also shows up in the SPD checker.

Not sure what to do. I have a P8Z68 Gen3 non-Pro. It sucks because it's not like they sell LGA1155 boards these days to replace it, even though my RAM and CPU are probably fine.

So now I went from 4.5Ghz and 16GB of RAM, to 3.3Ghz and 8GB. I even tried reflashing the current BIOS just in case, but that didn't help anything either. If anyone has ran into this problem and found a solution, I'd like to hear it.


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## waltdanger

d3v0 said:


> Cranked up the vcore to 1.46v, and the fixed CPU frequency to 500. Temps are still 65-70c. Perfectly stable now. No crashes when gaming for any game. Since it passed the latest version of prime 95 for 16 hours at a lower vcore, I am sure this thing is ready to rock for the next two years of its short life. I am still planning to tweak a couple of things, but I think changing my ram timing from 1T to 2T really helped sort it out.
> 
> I am also considering a future drop of PLL voltage from 1.7 to 1.5 and staying around there to see if ivy likes the lower vcore there, which I have heard it does.


Well I think my board is dying.

I've been trying to get UEFI to work with my video card (7870 Myst, which should support it). After flashing numerous video bioses and never getting past a black screen/unlit keyboard when EFI Option Rom was enabled in BIOS, I decided to give up. I reset my CMOS due to black screen problem, but it isn't showing my integrated graphics anymore (the menu option for IGFX is gone). I also noticed it now detects my 16GB of RAM as 8GB, and even worse, my 2500K has a LOCKED multiplier (won't let me set above 33, I was stable at 45 +0.060 votes for 6 years). It won't boot with no external video card (red light by the slot), and with it, the IGFX options in BIOS are gone.

I verified all sticks of RAM I have are functioning one-at-a-time (besides, it would be odd for 2 sticks to just die). But if all four are in, the red MemTest light comes on. The RAM also shows up in the SPD checker.

Not sure what to do. I have a P8Z68 Gen3 non-Pro. It sucks because it's not like they sell LGA1155 boards these days to replace it, even though my RAM and CPU are probably fine.

So now I went from 4.5Ghz and 16GB of RAM, to 3.3Ghz and 8GB. I even tried reflashing the current BIOS just in case, but that didn't help anything either. If anyone has ran into this problem and found a solution, I'd like to hear it.


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## waltdanger

waltdanger said:


> Well I think my board is dying.
> 
> I've been trying to get UEFI to work with my video card (7870 Myst, which should support it). After flashing numerous video bioses and never getting past a black screen/unlit keyboard when EFI Option Rom was enabled in BIOS, I decided to give up. I reset my CMOS due to black screen problem, but it isn't showing my integrated graphics anymore (the menu option for IGFX is gone). I also noticed it now detects my 16GB of RAM as 8GB, and even worse, my 2500K has a LOCKED multiplier (won't let me set above 33, I was stable at 45 +0.060 votes for 6 years). It won't boot with no external video card (red light by the slot), and with it, the IGFX options in BIOS are gone.
> 
> I verified all sticks of RAM I have are functioning one-at-a-time (besides, it would be odd for 2 sticks to just die). But if all four are in, the red MemTest light comes on. The RAM also shows up in the SPD checker.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what to do. I have a P8Z68 Gen3 non-Pro. It sucks because it's not like they sell LGA1155 boards these days to replace it, even though my RAM and CPU are probably fine.
> 
> So now I went from 4.5Ghz and 16GB of RAM, to 3.3Ghz and 8GB. I even tried reflashing the current BIOS just in case, but that didn't help anything either. If anyone has ran into this problem and found a solution, I'd like to hear it.


So I fixed my board. It was corruption related to the Intel Management Engine (Intel ME) part of the flash/bios image. Not fixable by just flashing the BIOS with EZFlash since that will maintain the current ME, but with some help from the resources on Win-RAID, I found a clean ME firmware image. I used the Intel Flash Image Tool to decomp the flash image into its parts, replaced the Intel ME binary with a clean binary, then rebuilt the image with my existing configuration and used a DOS boot USB stick to erase and flash the new image fully. Then after one last CMOS reset, it came back up and all the features of my chip are working again. Didn't mean to double post but it might help others who may run into this issue. 

The guide I followed is here


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## Wabbit16

waltdanger said:


> So I fixed my board. It was corruption related to the Intel Management Engine (Intel ME) part of the flash/bios image. Not fixable by just flashing the BIOS with EZFlash since that will maintain the current ME, but with some help from the resources on Win-RAID, I found a clean ME firmware image. I used the Intel Flash Image Tool to decomp the flash image into its parts, replaced the Intel ME binary with a clean binary, then rebuilt the image with my existing configuration and used a DOS boot USB stick to erase and flash the new image fully. Then after one last CMOS reset, it came back up and all the features of my chip are working again. Didn't mean to double post but it might help others who may run into this issue.
> 
> The guide I followed is here


Great stuff! Glad you managed to sort it out


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## d3v0

Hey guys,

I am curious about the PCI-E 3.0 x16 lanes. I have a 3770K so I have PCI-E 3.0.

I have a GTX 1080Ti in the top PCI-E x16 slot, for gaming and mining.

I have a GTX 970 in the second PCI-E x16 slot, for mining only.

Question 1:

Does using both for mining mean that they operate at x8/x8 even though they are not SLI?

Question 2:

Temps are much higher now on my 1080Ti. Can I place the GTX 1080ti in the bottom slot and the GTX 970 in the top slot and still get x16 for gaming with my GTX 1080ti? Thanks!


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## MooMoo

d3v0 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I am curious about the PCI-E 3.0 x16 lanes. I have a 3770K so I have PCI-E 3.0.
> 
> I have a GTX 1080Ti in the top PCI-E x16 slot, for gaming and mining.
> 
> I have a GTX 970 in the second PCI-E x16 slot, for mining only.
> 
> Question 1:
> 
> Does using both for mining mean that they operate at x8/x8 even though they are not SLI?
> 
> Question 2:
> 
> Temps are much higher now on my 1080Ti. Can I place the GTX 1080ti in the bottom slot and the GTX 970 in the top slot and still get x16 for gaming with my GTX 1080ti? Thanks!



Q1: Yes.
Q2: No, because you are dividing the PCI-E lanes with other device.

Your mobo manual also gives you lots of info


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## d3v0

I read the manual and it says x8/x8 of course for SLI, but I wasnt sure if it meant the same for mining.

Going to have to remove that GTX 970, since the x8 3.0 will bottleneck my GTX 1080ti for sure.


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## TwoCables

d3v0 said:


> I read the manual and it says x8/x8 of course for SLI, but I wasnt sure if it meant the same for mining.
> 
> Going to have to remove that GTX 970, since the x8 3.0 will bottleneck my GTX 1080ti for sure.



The motherboard doesn't know anything other than "the video cards are being used". It's not going to go, "Oh hey, the video cards are being used for mining. Well, that's different! I'll give x16/x16 then."


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## d3v0

Glad I got the clarification. 

Just to confirm, that means that no matter what activity I am doing, when there are two cards plugged in, they get 8x/8x?

I am, however, able to use the GTX 1080ti in the bottom slot and move the GTX 970 to the top, though, and use the 1080ti (at 8x) for gaming?


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## TwoCables

d3v0 said:


> Glad I got the clarification.
> 
> Just to confirm, that means that no matter what activity I am doing, when there are two cards plugged in, they get 8x/8x?
> 
> I am, however, able to use the GTX 1080ti in the bottom slot and move the GTX 970 to the top, though, and use the 1080ti (at 8x) for gaming?


I don't think the use of the cards dictates how many PCI-E lanes are available to them - or how many can be. I think that's where the confusion is coming from.


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## d3v0

Gotcha. Well, at least I will swap them so that my 1080 runs cooler. I have an intake on the bottom and my 970 runs alot cooler than the 1080ti at the moment.


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## 1di9

Hi everybody
I'm using my P8Z68-V motherboard and Core i5 [email protected],4Ghz cooled with a Scythe Zipang equipped with a Noctua 140mm fanrunning at 800-900 rpm. On full load with Prime95 (in place large FFTs) temperature is between 71-73° and Vcore is 1,322 - 324 V. 
Is temperature too high? I need to work on CPU voltage tryng to keep it low?


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## merlin__36

Hello, Asus family I have been using the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe/ GEN3 since early 2012 I am currently being torn between upgrading or pushing the limits. how have you all of you decided?


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## MooMoo

merlin__36 said:


> Hello, Asus family I have been using the Asus P8Z68 Deluxe/ GEN3 since early 2012 I am currently being torn between upgrading or pushing the limits. how have you all of you decided?


Depends what you do with your computer. I had [email protected] with p8p67 pro gen3 and I upgraded to 7700k. I would say it was definetly worth it to me, 2500k was bottlenecking me in few games, overall everything became snappier.


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## merlin__36

MooMoo said:


> Depends what you do with your computer. I had [email protected] with p8p67 pro gen3 and I upgraded to 7700k. I would say it was definetly worth it to me, 2500k was bottlenecking me in few games, overall everything became snappier.


I am noticing a Bottleneck on my CPU while clocked at 4.6ghz While trying to get fps between 160-240 on a FPS i have been playing. I see the CPU @ 100% while playing.

But i am ready to upgrade after Spending Over $2,000 on a Monitor and Video Card i want Smooth play!


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## MooMoo

merlin__36 said:


> I am noticing a Bottleneck on my CPU while clocked at 4.6ghz While trying to get fps between 160-240 on a FPS i have been playing. I see the CPU @ 100% while playing.
> 
> But i am ready to upgrade after Spending Over $2,000 on a Monitor and Video Card i want Smooth play!


That definetly helps. I recommend to upgrade to atleast 8700k  But beware, if you are heavily to overclocking, 7700k and 8700k (6700k maybe too) have poor TIM under IHS/poor seal, so temps tend to be a bit high. Nothing like it would be problem with stock clocks/mild overclock, but it's fixable with delidding. I settled to mild 4.6GHz overclock with my 7700k as I didn't see huge improvement like I saw with sandy bridge overclocking.


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## merlin__36

MooMoo said:


> That definetly helps. I recommend to upgrade to atleast 8700k  But beware, if you are heavily to overclocking, 7700k and 8700k (6700k maybe too) have poor TIM under IHS/poor seal, so temps tend to be a bit high. Nothing like it would be problem with stock clocks/mild overclock, but it's fixable with delidding. I settled to mild 4.6GHz overclock with my 7700k as I didn't see huge improvement like I saw with sandy bridge overclocking.



Yeah i was thinking 8700k or a Ryzen7 2700x


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## Leapo

Anyone have a modified BIOS for the P8Z68-V/GEN3 with a full set of updated OROMs that's confirmed working? Every link I've come across has been dead...

Edit 1: Managed to inject the latest available NVMe module on my own, and get it flashed without issue. Going to try natively booting from NVMe on this board soon!
Edit 2: And I'm now booting from a 1TB NVMe drive. Works perfectly


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## texas_nightowl

I'm starting to wonder if my P8Z68 is fatally wounded.

It was fine when I went to bed. I left the PC on.

When I came back this morning, no monitor, no usb keyboard, no usb mouse. They would not respond and the kb/mouse did not have "power".

I held my power button down to force shutdown the PC and then booted it back up. Still no keyboard, no mouse, no display...but, the PC is booting into windows. I have sound and get the welcome to windows sound. 

I have tried different USB ports.
I have powered down and unplugged it for 30 seconds and plugged back in, no change.
I have powered down and flipped the power switch on the back of the PSU, no change.
I have removed my 1080ti and plugged the monitor into the motherboard (hdmi), no change.

The PSU is newer than everything else. About 8 months old. Bought it when I bought the (used) 1080ti.

I'm planning on next unplugging my hard drives so it quits booting to windows and so I don't have to force shutdown the OS anymore.

Then removing the CMOS battery and/or resetting using jumpers.

Otherwise, I'm out of ideas.

So to sum up: no usb support, no display but system is booting to windows.

Time to suck it up and build a new pc?


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## Curleyyy

• Hi, I just got a replacement for my old ASUS Maximus V Gene that I was using with my i7 3770K 

• I now have the ASUS P8P67 (Rev1.02) as it says on the motherboard.

Q.1) The latest BIOS is v3602 from 2012, is there anything newer? 

Q.2) For the Maximus board we had a tool that would allow us to manually update the modules in the BIOS, does this work here?
(This is the thread) (https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?42298-Asus-Maximus-V-Gene-Bios-v1903-Updated-Modules)

• I've run through the motherboard, and have a stable clock similar to the Gene board, although there are some minor things.

Q.3) Is it still recommended to get the manually updated INF/Chipsets like I used to? I was previously using (v13.1.0.1058 (2014)) as that was most performant.
(This is the thread) (https://www.win-raid.com/t25f23-Which-are-the-quot-best-quot-Intel-AHCI-RAID-drivers.html)

• I have disabled USB3.0 / Onboard Audio / etc,... As I don't use them. 

Q.4) On the ASUS Support/Driver page it states that it has "Realtek LAN" is this true, or do we actually have an Intel LAN Chip? Can I use the Intel Driver?
Currently the only drivers I have installed are NVIDIA, UniXonar, C++/DX and then let Win10 handle the rest. (Win7 was a lot more different.)

Is there anything else I should know?

Thankyou!


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## d3v0

Hey yall!

By way of update, my Asus P8Z68 V-Pro Gen3 is STILL rolling, together with my delidded 3770k thats had 1.45v pushed through it at 4.7ghz for 2.5 years.

However, my swiftech H320x2 is making a ton of pump noise, unless the pump is running on minimum duty cycle. so far I have been able to set the BIOS that it stays at 800rpm until the CPU hits 70c. so at all times when running under 70c its whisper quiet.

sadly, at 1.45v 4700mhz, I often hit 70c while gaming. Is there any other way to manually set the bios to force the pump RPM to 800RPM even if the mobo detects the CPU hitting 70c? Thanks!


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## turrican9

Update. My Asus P8P67 PRO is still running strong. Still using the legendary i7 2600K overclocked to 4.5GHz. Through the years I've only changed the case fans, PSU, graphics card and added a few SSDs in my cooler master storm scout. Not because the PSU or fans were dead. Because I wanted a modular PSU, silent fans and more SSDs. 

It's incredible that a 9 and a half year old platform is still viable and running strong. I am happily gaming rather new titles like Borderlands 3. Bought a GTX 1070 a few years back and the i7 2600K overclocked to 4.5GHz is not a noteworthy bottleneck for this setup. Also using 16GB of Corsair vengeance. 16GB seems to be the sweet spot these days. Tried installing win10 back in 2017 and had the infamous freezing problems. So settled for Win8.1 because extended support for Win7 ending. Yesterday I tried Win10 again and it seems to be running fine thus far. Win10 has extended support to late october 2025. The ridiculous thing is that I'm not sure I will have upgraded my CPU and motherboard within 2025. 

In the event my motherboard or some RAM should die I'm not sure I will upgrade my platform. I may order replacements from ebay. LOL. Incredible setup. Legendary


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## Mikuni

turrican9 said:


> Update. My Asus P8P67 PRO is still running strong. Still using the legendary i7 2600K overclocked to 4.5GHz. Through the years I've only changed the case fans, PSU, graphics card and added a few SSDs in my cooler master storm scout. Not because the PSU or fans were dead. Because I wanted a modular PSU, silent fans and more SSDs.
> 
> It's incredible that a 9 and a half year old platform is still viable and running strong. I am happily gaming rather new titles like Borderlands 3. Bought a GTX 1070 a few years back and the i7 2600K overclocked to 4.5GHz is not a noteworthy bottleneck for this setup. Also using 16GB of Corsair vengeance. 16GB seems to be the sweet spot these days. Tried installing win10 back in 2017 and had the infamous freezing problems. So settled for Win8.1 because extended support for Win7 ending. Yesterday I tried Win10 again and it seems to be running fine thus far. Win10 has extended support to late october 2025. The ridiculous thing is that I'm not sure I will have upgraded my CPU and motherboard within 2025.
> 
> In the event my motherboard or some RAM should die I'm not sure I will upgrade my platform. I may order replacements from ebay. LOL. Incredible setup. Legendary


Same here but with an i5-2500K @ 4.3 Ghz, I could set it a bit higher but this allows to have my fans almost silent. I do miss some cores tbh for programming, virtual machines and other stuff besides gaming, but for the most part it's still a pretty fast machine. My 9 year old Corsair AIO still going as well.


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