# [Official] XSPC Rasa 750 RS/RX120/240/360 Kit Club



## mbudden

Welcome! Well it has seemed that these kits from XSPC have been getting pretty popular, so I had thought maybe I should make a little club. I took a look around and didn't see much of a club, other than the thread I created to tell users about it. So I decided why not make one, well kingofyo1 and I both decided. But basically this will be a thread where all the users who own/have owned the kit can throw their name on the list and maybe show case their kit. As this writing I do not own it, but it will be in my possession in hopefully a day. Feel free to post pictures, links, a review, videos etc.

*READ THE FAQ BEFORE POSTING*

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*XSPC Rasa 750 RS120 Kit*










*XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit*










*XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Kit*










*Unboxing*


You Tube





*Reviews:*

The Best Case Scenario

Overclock3D.net


You Tube





*Links:*
How to install the water block. (PDF)

*Modifications:*
AMD Backplate Mod

*FAQ*

*Where to Buy:*

US - FrozenCPU - RS240 Kit
FrozenCPU - RS360 Kit
Jab-tech - RS240 Kit
Jab-tech - RX240 Kit
Jab-tech - RX360 Kit
SVC - RS240 Kit
PerformancePC - RS120 Kit
PerformancePC - RS240 Kit
PerformancePC - RX240 Kit
PerformancePC - RX360 Kit

*To get 5% off your order from FrozenCPU, enter the discount code:*

Code:



Code:


[B]pcapex[/B]

*To get 5% off your order from Jabtech, enter the discount code:*

Code:



Code:


[B]facebook[/B]

UK - SpecialTech.co.uk - Rasa 450 RS120 Kit
SpecialTech.co.uk - RS240 Kit
SpecialTech.co.uk - RS360 Kit

Canada - Dazmode - Rasa 450 RS120 Kit
Dazmode - RS240 Kit
Dazmode - RX240 Kit
Dazmode - RS360 Kit
Dazmode - RX360 Kit

*Since everyone asks for before and afters. Here is some temps on some machines.*

GoodInk - i5 @ 4Ghz.
mbudden - E5300 @ 3.8Ghz.
jam3s - Q6600 @ 3.4Ghz.
sgilmore62 - i7-930 @ 4.3Ghz & 5970.
koven - 1090T @ 4.2Ghz w/ 1.5v

XSPC Watercooling Kit Users

https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0AszkUOwtQ31XdENMYUxNS3FndC1QXzJRQTN2MmhLN3c&w=95&h=300&single=true Google Spreadsheet

https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0AszkUOwtQ31XdE1rYVM0a3UxU2RCNUY2NURLQi0xOFE&w=95&h=300&single=true Google Spreadsheet

*ADD YOURSELF TO THE LIST!*








*XSPC Rasa 750 Owners Club*









Code:



Code:


[CODE][center]:Snorkle:[B][URL="http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/882408-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-240-a.html#post11546996"]XSPC Rasa 750 Owners Club[/URL][/B]:Snorkle:[/center]

[/CODE]

Made official by Bitemarks and bloodstains on 21/12/10


----------



## AgentHydra

I want to buy the RS240 kit so bad but I need a car first lol.


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## GoodInk

Stock RS240 vs Megahalems Rev.2
i5 750 running 4.0GHz(200x20)
CPUv: 1.425v
IMC/VTT: 1.2455v
CPU PLL: 1.802v

Running a Megahalems Rev.2 with two Gelid Silent 12 PWM fans @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores
Idle: 41°C
Max: 72.25°C









XSPC Rasa 240 kit only with stock fans running in pull, air coming from outside the case @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores(less than 24hrs cure time using AS5)
Idle: 35.5°C
Max: 60.5°C









In my Sniper before I modded my Scout.














































Scout before the upgraded GPU and RX120























































Upgraded with a RX120 and added a 5870 to the loop.


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## Balsagna

You took my idea! I was so going to do this in like 20min lol!.... Meanie

Edit: Add me to the list, I purchased it, sitting next to me, but I can't install it till after Xmas... it's my christmas present /sigh

----------------------------------------

Update 7-18-11

I'm going to be getting a new pump/res so I'll post up a picture while I can with it installed in my 800D with different tubing and new lights for my case...


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## kingofyo1

woot! and our club is created! Let me be the second to welcome anyone and everyone to the thread! if you have any questions or comments about the kits or even your own experiences feel free to post them!


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## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Balsagna* 
You took my idea! I was so going to do this in like 20min lol!.... Meanie

Edit: Add me to the list, I purchased it, sitting next to me, but I can't install it till after Xmas... it's my christmas present /sigh

adding now! you should take a pic of the box and post it so i have a pic link to post with your name








oh do you have the rs240 or 360?


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## fr0st.

I'll join in a bit, I need to buy mine first









Oh, just to let you know, There's a "" tag right before the first bolded word above the RS120 kit ​


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## Balsagna

RS 360, and I'm currently at my parents house, will be home after a bit... without the box of goodies :C

No camera with me..


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## mbudden

...
ugh.


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## Balsagna

I have the RS360 kit and not the RS240.. Just thought I'd point that out


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## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fr0st.* 
I'll join in a bit, I need to buy mine first









Oh, just to let you know, There's a "" tag right before the first bolded word above the RS120 kit ​
​
​
Sorry about that. Something wacky has been going on...








Fixed it though.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Balsagna* 
RS 360, and I'm currently at my parents house, will be home after a bit... without the box of goodies :C

No camera with me..









Feel free to post pics whenever you can.​


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## Balsagna

I sure will do!


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## armada10

Here's mine:


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## kingofyo1

alright, armada, you're added! nice rig btw


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## tuffstuff

add me up hopefully mine will come tomorrow if fedex gets it together since they said friday then saturday and now its apparently stuck in ohio.


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## kidwolf909

In with my RS240 kit... Wishing I had gotten an RX240, but alas, FrozenCPU didn't stock it and I wasn't familiar with Jabtech.


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## Bal3Wolf

Im planing to get the rx360 kit and a 700d case to put it in.


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## spoolindsm127

The RX240 with a thicker radiator probably performs similar to the RS360 right? Or will RS360 still provide slightly more performance?


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## rocstar96

I really want that RS240, Too bad its $210 here.


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## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tuffstuff* 
add me up hopefully mine will come tomorrow if fedex gets it together since they said friday then saturday and now its apparently stuck in ohio.

which kit did ya get?

Rocstar, have you thought about flat rate shipping, or is that still same price area?


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## mbudden

Sigh...


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## DullBoi

Please add, my pics are in the other thread


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## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DullBoi*


Please add, my pics are in the other thread










Will do


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## GoodInk

If you want my pics from the other thread added go ahead.


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## mbudden

I will be doing that.
Thought about that this morning


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## tuffstuff

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


which kit did ya get?

Rocstar, have you thought about flat rate shipping, or is that still same price area?


I got the RS240 Kit


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## thrasherht

I'm in with the 360 kit.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post11555570

take a look here, maybe you can help me.


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## brl3git

Add plox


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## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brl3git*











Add plox


added, all requests to be added have been and any applicable pic links have also been added to the spreadsheet. Remember if you wish to be added, just request it!


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## thrasherht

does anybody know if there is a barb you could buy that would screw into the fill port on the res? because that hole is huge compared to a G1/4 thread hole like what is used for the tubing. I want to setup a remote fill port on my setup.


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## Zmanster

Please add.

Edit: Bubbles you see in the tubes are gone. These pics were taken right after the build was finished.


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## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zmanster* 
Please add.

Edit: Bubbles you see in the tubes are gone. These pics were taken right after the build was finished.

what compression fittings did you use? if you don't mind me asking.


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## Zmanster

koolance and bitspower (black fittings)


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## GnookGnook

Count me in for it

It's not perfect but I'm proud of it.


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## wermad

I only have the pump/res and RX360, I don't qualify to be a member I think
















Great pump/res and the RX360 has been awesome


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## gdawg33

where can you get the rs120 kit at


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## avattz

Add me to the club!











I just finished installing this kit a few minutes ago, and I have to say that I am not disappointed with this kit. It is my first watercooling rig, and although I know I should of let it run without the actual computer components, I couldn't wait! Case is in "barebones" mode as I check for any leaks. I just love how the radiator hangs on the back, like some sort of computer "backpack" lol.

Anyone know how to remove the tubing from the barbs? Once I put them on, I could not get the tubing off no matter how much force I applied.


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## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zmanster*


koolance and bitspower (black fittings)


Thanks. What are the exact specs? Only thing I need.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *GnookGnook*


Count me in for it

It's not perfect but I'm proud of it.


Will be added.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I only have the pump/res and RX360, I don't qualify to be a member I think
















Great pump/res and the RX360 has been awesome










Post pics







we'll add you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gdawg33*


where can you get the rs120 kit at


Not too sure. Jabtech nor FrozenCPU sells it









Quote:



Originally Posted by *avattz*


Add me to the club!


Shall be done







looks good. 
I'm going to be piggy backing mine as well.


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## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avattz*


Add me to the club!











I just finished installing this kit a few minutes ago, and I have to say that I am not disappointed with this kit. It is my first watercooling rig, and although I know I should of let it run without the actual computer components, I couldn't wait! Case is in "barebones" mode as I check for any leaks. I just love how the radiator hangs on the back, like some sort of computer "backpack" lol.

Anyone know how to remove the tubing from the barbs? Once I put them on, I could not get the tubing off no matter how much force I applied.


yeah actually, if you have a little jewelers flathead you can use that to go under the end of the tubing, and pry it up a bit and just wiggle the tube off. Either that works, or just chop it off right past the barb if you got enough extra length on the tube


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## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Post pics







we'll add you.


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## kingofyo1

pics added, wermad. it looks good! I was thinking of modding mine for a drain and fill port later on, but I dont have the slightest clue as to where I'd add them :/


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## KoukiFC3S

About to order the RS240. Do I need to buy any other parts or am I good to go?


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## Zmanster

Exact specs of my XSPC or fitting?

RX240 rad and 5.25 res/pump.

Specs of the fittings are 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD


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## avattz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S* 
About to order the RS240. Do I need to buy any other parts or am I good to go?

The kits come with everything you need, except for the liquid. It's recommended that you get distilled water from your local grocery store, and a silver kill-coil or biocide.


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## wermad

I have the RX360 not the RS, can someone update the list for me please


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## kingofyo1

doing it nao. update will be seen on main spread in 5 mins


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## wermad

ty


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## kingofyo1

no problemo senor. keep the pics comin! oh and any more people you see around with rasa cooling of any sort, please feel free to invite them


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## wermad

I convinced my cousin to get his amd rig wc'd, the Rasa rs240 was my first suggestion.

I don't have new updates atm for my build, had to rma my 3rd card and I have yet to get a block for it









Other than that, the pump is uber silent on 7v and idles temps are about +1c for everything. So far this pump and the RX360 are cooling my cpu, mb, and two fermis quite nicely. Kinda debunked those skeptics about this pump and rad cooling my rig


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## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I convinced my cousin to get his amd rig wc'd, the Rasa rs240 was my first suggestion.

I don't have new updates atm for my build, had to rma my 3rd card and I have yet to get a block for it









Other than that, the pump is uber silent on 7v and idles temps are about +1c for everything. So far this pump and the RX360 are cooling my cpu, mb, and two fermis quite nicely. Kinda debunked those skeptics about this pump and rad cooling my rig










are you worried about burning out your pump early by putting that much load on it?


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## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


are you worried about burning out your pump early by putting that much load on it?


nope


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## mbudden

my kit will be here this morning !















finally lol


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## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 







my kit will be here this morning !















finally lol

didjagetit?didjagetit?didjagetityet?howboutnow?

lol make sure to post up as many pics as possible for all the people thinking about getting one, and videos too!


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## tuffstuff

went to install mine last and gotta wait now the 2nd scythe gt hits the ram clipes.









So I ordered up two yates loons that are 120x20 hoping they will fit otherwise I might just go external with the radiator.


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## thrasherht

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tuffstuff* 
went to install mine last and gotta wait now the 2nd scythe gt hits the ram clipes.









So I ordered up two yates loons that are 120x20 hoping they will fit otherwise I might just go external with the radiator.

what are you doing with the stock fans? do you have three of them, and are you willing to ship them to me if i pay for them?


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## Shane1244

I've been on the final stages of checkout several times, I keep backing out. Other than appearance, I have no other reason to justify the purchase yet.. My temps are already just fine.


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## mbudden

I blew my PSU.
Everything is on hold.
I knew I should have used the freaking Dell 200W PSU.
What happened was, I used my PSU from my sig.
And totally forgot the pump was on and plugged in the freaking LED to see how bright it was and ish.
The pump is silent so I forgot it was on


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## Balsagna

Man, you're getting set back after set back mbudden...

I still have to wait till Xmas for my 'secret gift' lol. I'm thinking about re-arranging my desk so I can put the PC on top of it and turn it sideways so I can stare at the sexiness of it....


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## Draggin

My random cat.








cool tubing color...








Dusty upside-down block.








dusty computersoraus 









that is all.

Oh yea, My stupid lil video.

  
 You Tube


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## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Balsagna*


Man, you're getting set back after set back mbudden...

I still have to wait till Xmas for my 'secret gift' lol. I'm thinking about re-arranging my desk so I can put the PC on top of it and turn it sideways so I can stare at the sexiness of it....


It just so happens... It didn't die.
My friend told me he did the same thing one time.
It "arched" ? He said just let it sit in the ON position and then wait ten minutes.
Worked perfectly.









All set up!
Didn't take any of the set up








Freaking stressing the whole time.
I'll make sure to take some in a bit. Making sure everything is set before I take pics









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Draggin*


...


Looks good


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## mbudden

Here we go.
Nothing too pretty.


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## thrasherht

I have a grand treat for you AMD fellows. 
My custom made stock backplate for the rase block.
drilled out the threads.








bolts fit through the holes now.








sleeves were too high so they came through the motherboard and stopped the nuts from tightening down. so i sanded them down.








Yay, they fit now.








backplate with bolts in place









well there you go. 
If you are wondering the drill bit was a 5/32 bit.


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## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Here we go.
Nothing too pretty.



































hey bud, im glad you finally got everything working!

Thrasher, your pics were added to the spreadsheet under link 2


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## thrasherht

I do believe that my post about the backplate should be linked to in the OP so that any of the AMD guys can see how to make their very own backplate for mounting. Because I know it pissed me off that it didn't have a backplate.


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## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thrasherht* 
I do believe that my post about the backplate should be linked to in the OP so that any of the AMD guys can see how to make their very own backplate for mounting. Because I know it pissed me off that it didn't have a backplate.

lol when i did mine, iw as like ***?!? where the hell is the backplate! at that point in time, i called fcpu and they told me that the amd fitting doesnt require one.. So i stole my old H50's backplate and used it with the black screws. I think it worked perfectly fine, so I kept it on there. I'll get mbud to add it in


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## thrasherht

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
lol when i did mine, iw as like ***?!? where the hell is the backplate! at that point in time, i called fcpu and they told me that the amd fitting doesnt require one.. So i stole my old H50's backplate and used it with the black screws. I think it worked perfectly fine, so I kept it on there. I'll get mbud to add it in

Yea I could have done that but I am using my modded h50 on my GFs computer(aka backup gaming rig). Plus i didn't trust the H50 backplate since it is plastic it wouldn't provide the support i needed. My mounting is putting a ton of pressure on my board, it was bowing before i put the backplate on.


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## tuffstuff

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thrasherht* 
what are you doing with the stock fans? do you have three of them, and are you willing to ship them to me if i pay for them?

I only have two. Also I might use them for the sides panel. If I don't I will let you know.


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## LuckY07

I'm very curious what temperatures everyone is getting with this kit. I'm wondering how it compares to the ECO c240. I hit about 53c on full load (stock settings) with my i7 875k.

I'm debating if I should get one of these kits in the 240 rad flavor.


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## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LuckY07* 
I'm very curious what temperatures everyone is getting with this kit. I'm wondering how it compares to the ECO c240. I hit about 53c on full load (stock settings) with my i7 875k.

I'm debating if I should get one of these kits in the 240 rad flavor.

There is some results at this link.
Scroll down a bit.
http://www.overclock.net/10841185-post1.html
mine and another user.


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## Bal3Wolf

heres more places have the kits should add it to the front page. And you can use coupon code facebook to get 5% off the order.

rs240
http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RS...t-pr-4753.html

rx240
http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX...t-pr-4779.html

rx360
http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX...t-pr-4780.html


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## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


well there you go. 
If you are wondering the drill bit was a 5/32 bit.


I did this for my EK Supreme LT as they don't come w/ a back-plate. Luckily, the stock mb back-plate was plastic so it was easy to drill







.

If you guys want a nice back-plate, EK sells its backplate (w/ rubber gasket), it should work as its designed for amd and intel mounts. Just a suggestion


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## Sean Webster

What are your temps like to any one that has an intel i7? Mine max at 75* at 4GHz. My rig is in my sig. Also i'll post up some pics soon to be added to the club!


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## wermad

idle 36-40c
load 58-63c (Intel Burn Test)

oc to 4.2 w/ 1.300v.


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## Sean Webster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


idle 36-40c
load 58-63c (Intel Burn Test)

oc to 4.2 w/ 1.300v.


Is your Hyperthreading on? Mine is.


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## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


What are your temps like to any one that has an intel i7? Mine max at 75* at 4GHz. My rig is in my sig. Also i'll post up some pics soon to be added to the club!










Seems hot my mega is cooler then that at 4ghz with ht on.


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## wermad

off, I have yet to play w/ that, most ppl say to leave it off. Ill try later to run it on.


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## Sean Webster

I just hit 68*-70* @4.2ghz w/ HT off @1.320v

Intel Burn Test for 5 runs/Maximum/8 threads


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## Bal3Wolf

lol im having 2nd thoughts on this kit now. These are my temps at 4ghz and 4.2ghz with ht add about 5-8c to it.


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## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


I just hit 68*-70* @4.2ghz w/ HT off @1.320v

Intel Burn Test for 5 runs/Maximum/8 threads


What are your ambient temps?


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 
What are your ambient temps?

SYSTIN = 25-27*C from HW Monitor
AUXTIN = 33-36*C
And at 4.2GHz with HT On I max at 78*,78*,75*, 75*@1.35v from core temp 0.99.8

Intel Burn Test for 5 runs/Maximum/8 threads

Also all power saving stuff is disabled including CPU TM Function
And i'm using the thermal paste that came with the kit. Lol


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SeanWebster* 
SYSTIN = 25-27*C from HW Monitor
AUXTIN = 33-36*C
And at 4.2GHz with HT On I max at 78*,78*,75*, 75*@1.35v from core temp 0.99.8

Intel Burn Test for 5 runs/Maximum/8 threads

Also all power saving stuff is disabled including CPU TM Function
*And i'm using the thermal paste that came with the kit. Lol*

That's your problem... lol


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## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SeanWebster* 
And i'm using the thermal paste that came with the kit. Lol

I think you just found your problem.


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## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 
That's your problem... lol









how do you do a 11 min ninja?


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 
That's your problem... lol

I think so too haha. What do you use and what would be the difference if i switched over?


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## GoodInk

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...=150&Itemid=62


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## Bal3Wolf

seanwebster you sure your pumps working right those temps even if the paste sucks you would think be lower i get those temps on air with any paste iv tried.


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## Sean Webster

I think so...the flow seems good.


----------



## spoolindsm127

^

How is your radiator mounted? Internal or external? And sorry if you had already mentioned that before..


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127* 
^

How is your radiator mounted? Internal or external? And sorry if you had already mentioned that before..

probly in the top of the case.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SeanWebster* 
I think so too haha. What do you use and what would be the difference if i switched over?

I use good ol' AS5 but I was thinking of buying some Shin Estu X23. But AS5 is doing the trick for me. Try new TIM and I bet you'll see lower temps.


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## Sean Webster

Ok I'm happy now! lol

I just remounted the cpu block and put on some different thermal paste (came with my hyper 212+) and actually put less on than before. I put too much before, now just a rice grain. Anyways, my temps dropped 8-10*







And now i'm going to get some artic silver 5 from my friend on monday, so i expect another 1-3* drop.
Also, thanks to all of you that helped. I'm posting pics soon.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SeanWebster* 
Ok I'm happy now! lol

I just remounted the cpu block and put on some different thermal paste (came with my hyper 212+) and actually put less on than before. I put too much before, now just a rice grain. Anyways, my temps dropped 8-10*







And now i'm going to get some artic silver 5 from my friend on monday, so i expect another 1-3* drop.
Also, thanks to all of you that helped and cared for my system. I'm posting picks soon.

I personally found the thermal paste that came with the kit is actually very good. But I didn't have a good cpu cooler to begin with, so im not sure about it compared to artic silver. I am glad you got it all working good.

Can't wait for pictures.


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## Jonesey I7

so wait, i have to make a backplate for the rs360 kit i just ordered????


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SeanWebster* 
Ok I'm happy now! lol

I just remounted the cpu block and put on some different thermal paste (came with my hyper 212+) and actually put less on than before. I put too much before, now just a rice grain. Anyways, my temps dropped 8-10*







And now i'm going to get some artic silver 5 from my friend on monday, so i expect another 1-3* drop.
Also, thanks to all of you that helped. I'm posting pics soon.

Sounds good man


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thrasherht* 
I personally found the thermal paste that came with the kit is actually very good. But I didn't have a good cpu cooler to begin with, so im not sure about it compared to artic silver. I am glad you got it all working good.

Can't wait for pictures.

as long as you don't over do it with the stock stuff, it will work OK, about 3-5C hotter thatn something good. Once you put too much on thought, you temps will go through the roof.


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## Sean Webster

Heres some pics! I got a Red White and Blue theme going and the Rasa RS 360 kit. Hope you like!


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
so wait, i have to make a backplate for the rs360 kit i just ordered????

Not if you have an Intel, it comes with everything you need, also double check your measurements on the tubing before you connect it and don't use a lot of thermal paste like I did.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SeanWebster* 
Heres some pics! I got a Red White and Blue theme going. Hope you like!

i REALLY like the clashing colors.
The white LED with the blue LED of the pump/res & the red fan LED.
I think they clash really well.









EDIT. snip the zip ties. lol


----------



## Sean Webster

Thanks! I know i need to cut them lol. Its just i had trouble with leaks with ****ty tubing from Home depot (cut the tube that came with the kit wrong). So i ordered more tubing and I left the zip tie legthened out there to tighten but i haven't yet, but i will soon.


----------



## GoodInk

Did anyone clear tubes frost over? I know mine did, I'm wondering if I didn't rinse the rad enough.


----------



## Sean Webster

Mine didn't but i think it is because i live in Florida








It never gets cold enough.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
so wait, i have to make a backplate for the rs360 kit i just ordered????


Quote:

Compatibility: AMD Sockets 939, 754, 940, AM2, AM3
Intel Sockets LGA1366, LGA1156, LGA775, 603, 604
*Requires mounting holes
Radiator Dimensions: 121x35x397mm (WxDxH)
Radiator Thread: 6-32
Pump Bay Res Dimensions: 149 x 100 x 85mm (WxDxH)
Pump performance: 750 lph
Delivery head: 1.8m
Voltage: 12V (4pin)
Fans: Low Noise 1700rpm 120mm Fan x3
Tubing Size: 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD
Included: Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock
Socket 775, 1366 and 1154 Backplates
Socket AM2 and AM3 mounting kit
X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir
5mm Blue LED with 4Pin Molex
RS360 Radiator
80mm to 120mm Radiator brackets
Low Noise 1700rpm 120mm Fan x3
120mm Fan Grill x3
2 Meters of Clear 7/16"ID Hose
G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6
Thermal Paste
So I think it don't come w/ a backplate for amd, either use your oem backplate, a cheap plastic one, or an alternative like the EK back plate. Any amd rasa kit users know if the kit includes a back plate for amd?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Any amd rasa kit users know if the kit includes a back plate for amd?

No. It does not.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 
No. It does not.

ty

edit; here's the ek backplate w/ rubber gasket, not bad for $10



http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26608


----------



## Coolio831

I can't wait till i order a 240mm kit.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SeanWebster* 
No, it comes with everything you need, just double check your measurements on the tubing before you connect it and don't use a lot of thermal paste.

But it doesn't come with a backplate for am3. I guess i'll be modding the stock backplate as the other member here was kind enough to show.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
But it doesn't come with a backplate for am3. I guess i'll be modding the stock backplate as the other member here was kind enough to show.










get the EK backplate, its $10 + $3 shipping, you'll get it asap since performance-pcs.com is in Florida too. specs:

Quote:

Supported sockets:
- Intel socket LGA 775
- Intel socket I7; LGA 1366
- Intel socket I5; LGA 1156

- AMD Socket 740
- AMD Socket 939
- AMD Socket 940
- AMD Socket AM2
- AMD Socket AM2+
- AMD Socket AM3
- AMD Socket Athlon 64
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26608

-or-

just mod the stock amd backplate.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Add me!!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SeanWebster* 
Ok I'm happy now! lol

I just remounted the cpu block and put on some different thermal paste (came with my hyper 212+) and actually put less on than before. I put too much before, now just a rice grain. Anyways, my temps dropped 8-10*







And now i'm going to get some artic silver 5 from my friend on monday, so i expect another 1-3* drop.
Also, thanks to all of you that helped. I'm posting pics soon.

So what are your temps now at 4ghz with ht and 4.2ghz with ht if you dont mind ?


----------



## steven937595

i use the bay resivoir in my haf-x with a 665-B pump. It's a very nice, space efficient res but it's quite hard to set up with no bubbles. as well as not being able to work on it in the drive bays just hope no leaks

been running it for a few months no probs


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
Add me!!!

Geeze. You must have wanted it bad. 28$ for shipping? LOL


----------



## Jonesey I7

yea, that's for USPS priority mail too!!. But i figured, what's $10 bucks to get it a day sooner ya know?


----------



## Jonesey I7

any brave and kind soul wanna do a "how to install segment" with pics and stuff on this thread for the water impaired? *blushes*


----------



## wermad

I read the instructions, its pretty comprehensive and thorough and I think there are some youtube vids too, and then there is ocn to answer your ?s too. good luck


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
I read the instructions, its pretty comprehensive and thorough and I think there are some youtube vids. good luck









pretty easy for Intel I hear, NOT SO MUCH for us AMD guys....







**should'a kept my 920**


----------



## mbudden

I wouldn't mind.... But I already have mine set up.
Maybe when I go clean the water.

Here is a pretty good video but for the RS120










You Tube


----------



## wermad

amd uses one less component, the backplate we've all been discussing, lol. thus its less and easier. use the stock amd backplate for now.

some pointers:
-install your cpu block, rad, and pump along w/ all other pc components. make sure that cpu block bracket for amd is tightened properly.
-DON'T power it on!
-take a few minutes to visualize how your going to route the tube. optional: use small paper sketches to document some of those ideas just in case.
-when you're ready, cut your tube and complete your loop.
-when the loop is complete, double or triple check your fittings and clamps.
-add water, jump-start your psu and power on the pump only and fans for testing.
-leak test for a few mins to several hours, its up to you. bleed any air and start adding water to fill the res as it lowers. I use a squeeze bottle to fill it since its already in the drive bay.
-if everything is good, power on your system,


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
Add me!!!



Post some pics once you get it


----------



## mbudden

Added some things to the OP.
Links to stores in UK & the US.


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
So what are your temps now at 4ghz with ht and 4.2ghz with ht if you dont mind ?

64*-66*C @4GHz @1.31250vcore
71*-74*[email protected] @1.35vcore

Also my heater went on while i was running the test and it blows directly towards the top of my case which sucks in the air from the top lol. Also my room is always 80*F -84*F
Next is 4.4GHz!


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
amd uses one less component, the backplate we've all been discussing, lol. thus its less and easier. use the stock amd backplate for now.

some pointers:
-install your cpu block, rad, and pump along w/ all other pc components. make sure that cpu block bracket for amd is tightened properly.
-DON'T power it on!
-take a few minutes to visualize how your going to route the tube. optional: use small paper sketches to document some of those ideas just in case.
-when you're ready, cut your tube and complete your loop.
-when the loop is complete, double or triple check your fittings and clamps.
-add water, jump-start your psu and power on the pump only and fans for testing.
-leak test for a few mins to several hours, its up to you. bleed any air and start adding water to fill the res as it lowers. I use a squeeze bottle to fill it since its already in the drive bay.
-if everything is good, power on your system,

Thank you very much, that is actually a perfect guide with the above videos. Couple questions, noob as they may be...

1. How to jump start the psu?
2. How to bleed the air?
3. How full to fill res?

NVM, watching the vids. Thanks guys!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 
Added some things to the OP.
Links to stores in UK & the US.

You should also add the rx240 and rx360 sence some people buy those for the better rads.


----------



## wermad

Its only a matter of time before XSPC offers a rasa kit w/ their RX480


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
Thank you very much, that is actually a perfect guide with the above videos. Couple questions, noob as they may be...

1. How to jump start the psu?
2. How to bleed the air?
3. How full to fill res?

NVM, watching the vids. Thanks guys!!

1. A 24 pin jumper comes in the kit.
2. well, shake the rad/res and bubbles will find their way out.
3. I filled mine to the top. But you could get away with less than that. You'll know. If you don't have enough, you'll hear the pump trying to suck in air.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
You should also add the rx240 and rx360 sence some people buy those for the better rads.

That's so much work


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
Thank you very much, that is actually a perfect guide with the above videos. Couple questions, noob as they may be...

1. How to jump start the psu?
2. How to bleed the air?
3. How full to fill res?

NVM, watching the vids. Thanks guys!!

oops I missed you there, sorry









1), as mentioned the kit has a jumper, or go ghetto fab, undo a medium/large paper clip into a "U" w/ one end a tad longer then the other, insert one into the green wire, there is only one, and the other into any black/ground.
2) Bleeding: this is what I do and it works great for me: don't top off your res leave about 1/4" of space and leave the fill port OPENED. As your leak testing, tap the tubes a bit and the rad and res. you'll see a lot of bubbles in the res and that's why its important to leave the fill port open. try not to rock your rig to avoid spilling water. keep filling the res as the water level drops due to escaping (bleeding) air.
3)Install dvd drive below the res to have access to that fill port. either use a small funnel or a squeeze bottle to add water as your bleeding air. I have some thing like this, the curve straw makes it easy to insert into the fillport and I just squeeze the amount i need


----------



## GoodInk

1. What he said
2. You do not need to leave the fill port open. Top off the res and let it run, then top off after the loop has filled up. The rest of the air will replace the water in the res and you might have to add very little water after the air has been worked out of the loop. Ether way will work but leaving the cap off is just asking for a spill. If you have a spare PSU, I would use that in the leak testing, above and away from any where water could get to it, in case you are very unlucky and do end up with a bad leak. Make sure everything is unplugged from the PSU but the pump, I for got my HDD's and let me tell you they got very warm.
3. Or a larger funnel and some hose.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 
1. What he said
2. You do not need to leave the fill port open. Top off the res and let it run, then top off after the loop has filled up. The rest of the air will replace the water in the res and you might have to add very little water after the air has been worked out of the loop. Ether way will work but leaving the cap off is just asking for a spill. If you have a spare PSU, I would use that in the leak testing, above and away from any where water could get to it, in case you are very unlucky and do end up with a bad leak. Make sure everything is unplugged from the PSU but the pump, I for got my HDD's and let me tell you they got very warm.
3. Or a larger funnel and some hose.

by leaving the fill port closed, your creating a pocket of closed of air, so any air trying to escape will push on the water first, the water will push up on the air, the air will push on the res wall. so a lot of circulating air will just continue to do so. its best to leave the fill port open when bleeding air, this creates an opening for the top air to push out and escape. Leaving it closed is like putting an upside down cup in a tank of water, that pocket of air left inside has no where to go and little to no space left for any more air. the opened fill port allows it to escape. basic stuff. leaving your fill port open will not cause any trouble as long as the pump is powered on and circulating. when your done or need to cut the power to the pump, close the fillport.

edit: I have had faster bleeds by leaving it open


----------



## wermad

double post!

once your loop is running properly and your temps are cool (pun intended), there will be a bit of air left. This is when you DO close it and let that small amount work its way out, occasionally bleed that out. so GoodInk has a good point post-install


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 




















B-E-A-UTIFUL rig if I do say so myself!!


----------



## Jonesey I7

On the review of this, he said the cpu block was "less than desired" flatness. Has anyone lapped theirs yet? Did you see any difference in temps??


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
On the review of this, he said the cpu block was "less than desired" flatness. Has anyone lapped theirs yet? Did you see any difference in temps??

I've been thinking about lapping both my CPU & possibly this WB. But that takes a lot of time... LOL


----------



## GoodInk

Yes it is very, very basic. The volume of air coming out of the loop will be replaced from the volume of water in the res, and the volume air coming in to the res will have room in the res because volume the water that left the res is equal to the volume of air that left the loop. Damn that is hard to type after a couple beers, lol. There will be no pressure gains or loses anywhere in the loop or the res. The only thing to be gained by leaving the fill port open is it is easier to add more water if needed, but it is not needed do to the size of the res. The size and the design of this res will keep any air that is left in the loop after topping it off after the first initial turn on of the pump. At the same time, the chances of knocking the case over and spilling water out of the res is very low. Now maybe with a smaller res were you have more volume in the loop than the res I would say yes so you can easily top it off as needed. Even in my case with the extra RX120 rad, GPU block, and tubing, I no trouble. Its all about volume not mass or density.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 
I've been thinking about lapping both my CPU & possibly this WB. But that takes a lot of time... LOL

This wb is not flat, it is higher in the middle. I be just by doing the wb you would gain a lot at least 5C but likely more if you are pushing the CPU really hard.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 
Yes it is very, very basic. The volume of air coming out of the loop will be replaced from the volume of water in the res, and the volume air coming in to the res will have room in the res because volume the water that left the res is equal to the volume of air that left the loop. Damn that is hard to type after a couple beers, lol. There will be no pressure gains or loses anywhere in the loop or the res. The only thing to be gained by leaving the fill port open is it is easier to add more water if needed, but it is not needed do to the size of the res. The size and the design of this res will keep any air that is left in the loop after topping it off after the first initial turn on of the pump. At the same time, the chances of knocking the case over and spilling water out of the res is very low. Now maybe with a smaller res were you have more volume in the loop than the res I would say yes so you can easily top it off as needed. Even in my case with the extra RX120 rad, GPU block, and tubing, I no trouble. Its all about volume not mass or density.

what he said too^^^









i was thinking that XSPC should have a nickel plated version, w/ plated brackets and only the top in acetal pom (or maybe acrylic too)


----------



## Bal3Wolf

And you need to add coupon code facebook for jabtech and i did your work for you lol 2 links are below for rx240 and rx360. Also you have a rs360 listed under jab-tech they dont sell them they only sell the rs240 rx240 and rx360.

http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX...-pr-4780.html#

http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX...t-pr-4779.html


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
double post!

once your loop is running properly and your temps are cool (pun intended), there will be a bit of air left. This is when you DO close it and let that small amount work its way out, occasionally bleed that out. so GoodInk has a good point post-install









LOL I spent so much time writing the other response, (I kept confusing my self with air in, water out, air back in, water back out) I missed this post.


----------



## Jonesey I7

My cpu is freshly lapped, i guess lapping the cpu block will be the first thing on my list to do when it gets here Tuesday. Lapped until razor blade test flat right?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
My cpu is freshly lapped, i guess lapping the cpu block will be the first thing on my list to do when it gets here Tuesday. Lapped until razor blade test flat right?

You should do a before and after on it. It would be nice to see what you gain from it. I'm guessing you will be doing this on your sig rig?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 
You should do a before and after on it. It would be nice to see what you gain from it. I'm guessing you will be doing this on your sig rig?

yes I will, and hey, on a side note. I'm thinking of picking up the EK full cover block for my 6870 cuz IT'S LOUD AS you know what. Do you think the pump could handle it, and still have great temps?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
yes I will, and hey, on a side note. I'm thinking of picking up the EK full cover block for my 6870 cuz IT'S LOUD AS you know what. Do you think the pump could handle it, and still have great temps?

Im running my sig rig and Im about to add a 3rd gpu block, the pump is still working like a champ! so a gpu block in the mix will be no issue.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Im running my sig rig and Im about to add a 3rd gpu block, the pump is still working like a champ! so a gpu block in the mix will be no issue.

That's what's up!! And all that from a supposed "weak" pump huh? lmao at some people
















Another noob question, thanks for putting up with them all guys.....the tubing is 7/16, but you can't get 7/16 barbs with the 6870 block. What do I do?


----------



## wermad

soften up the tube and it will fit over 1/2" barbs, makes a really tight seal too


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
That's what's up!! And all that from a supposed "weak" pump huh? lmao at some people
















Another noob question, thanks for putting up with them all guys.....the tubing is 7/16, but you can't get 7/16 barbs with the 6870 block. What do I do?

You don't even need 7/16 barbs, the tubing fits over 1/2 inch barbs perfectly, and you don't even have to heat it up or anything, it just slides over night and snug.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I am going to bed QUITE content with the days events. + rep to all that have helped me. I cannot WAIT until Tuesday....... adding the 6870 block to my order in the mourning before they send it out. Cheers guys, will keep you updated on events!!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
yes I will, and hey, on a side note. I'm thinking of picking up the EK full cover block for my 6870 cuz IT'S LOUD AS you know what. Do you think the pump could handle it, and still have great temps?

Yep, I have a 5870 EK block now plus a RX120 rad, and as wermad stated "the pump is still working like a champ!" The thing is I haven't seen a test on the new revision of this pump/res combo yet. They might have raised the head pressure on it and made it more quiet at the same time.


----------



## freakman300

I got a Rasa and a Razor for my 5870. My webcam sucks but its still proof, its with am3 mounting bracket (which I think looks better than the standard bracket). Didn't buy the kit, I wanted better parts, but XSPC waterblocks perform wonderfully, and they are priced well.

Ill get better pics when I get a camera.


----------



## ramenbuoy

matt give me a kit for my folding computer
p.s. call me baby

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 
Yep, I have a 5870 EK block now plus a RX120 rad, and as wermad stated "the pump is still working like a champ!" The thing is I haven't seen a test on the new revision of this pump/res combo yet. They might have raised the head pressure on it and made it more quiet at the same time.

Ever considered the EK mb block? this one is totally


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Ever considered the EK mb block? this one is totally











Yes I have, but my loop is maxed out as of now, I'm wishing I would have waited for the RX240 kit


----------



## Jonesey I7

just updated my order, got the EK full cover nickel block for my 6870 w/fittings as well!!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *freakman300* 
I got a Rasa and a Razor for my 5870. My webcam sucks but its still proof, its with am3 mounting bracket (which I think looks better than the standard bracket). Didn't buy the kit, I wanted better parts, but XSPC waterblocks perform wonderfully, and they are priced well.

Ill get better pics when I get a camera.

Will be added if not already









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ramenbuoy* 
matt give me a kit for my folding computer
p.s. call me baby

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk

haha. you wish.
give me your CPU first.


----------



## wermad

I decided to be merciful and upgrade my pump, so that means my trusty x20-750 will be for sale soon. Im going w/ a D5 + xspc D5 bay res, keeps the same look and will be able to handle my rig and upgrades







. I came to this conclusion after spending a few hours researching and getting the specs from this pump from XSPC's site, and it really is being asked too much for my rig tbh. Though Im really surprised it handle it quite well, maybe its a "Golden" pump


----------



## tuffstuff

I just wanna double check here before I do the loop this weekend.

U guys are going off the top fitting off the pump/res to rad in, then rad out to cpu in, cpu out to the bottom fitting on the pump/res right?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tuffstuff* 
I just wanna double check here before I do the loop this weekend.

U guys are going off the top fitting off the pump/res to rad in, then rad out to cpu in, cpu out to the bottom fitting on the pump/res right?

Pump Out to CPU In, CPU Out to Rad In, Rad Out to Pump In.
Once you get everything, you'll see how it goes.









It also says on the CPU block which is Out and which is In.


----------



## kingofyo1

oh, thas how you got it set up, matt? Mines going from rad>cpu>res/pump>rad


----------



## Jonesey I7

The "unwritten rule" if you will is pump/res>rad>cpu>pump/res.Insert gpu after cpu if you have it.... also states this at 12:52 in the video posted in this thread, part I.


----------



## wermad

rad placement has little difference in the loop. setup what ever uses less plumbing. if you plan on adding a gpu block, that should come after the cpu.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
oh, thas how you got it set up, matt? Mines going from rad>cpu>res/pump>rad


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
The "unwritten rule" if you will is pump/res>rad>cpu>pump/res.Insert gpu after cpu if you have it.... also states this at 12:52 in the video posted in this thread, part I.

Interesting. I just thought it was optimal this way.
Since the water will be pumped into the CPU block, then to the rad to cool water off, then back to the pump to be pumped back into the CPU block.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
rad placement has little difference in the loop. setup what ever uses less plumbing. if you plan on adding a gpu block, that should come after the cpu.

Mine uses a lot less plumbing than I thought. Still have about a good 12" piece left.







Not to mention perfect placement for a GPU block.


----------



## tuffstuff

a couple teasers here.










as it sits running leak test


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tuffstuff* 
a couple teasers here.

and one more question running the leak test part and i can feel the water going from the pump to the rad but after that it doesnt feel like any of the other tubes have water in them yet? Is that how its supposed to be or did I mess up.

I went from the back of the pump the top fitting to the rad>rad out cpu in>cpu out back to res

Should be fine.
I don't feel nothing in my hose returning to the Res.







But I can see it flowing into it.


----------



## mbudden

Oh. and pics








Did a bit of cable management.
Seems I knocked a few cables out of place...
Need to push them back again.

& added my UV tubes.








It looks really cluttered. But to be honest, it's not.


----------



## kingofyo1

hey matt, couple ideas if you're willing to listen as to the placement of those CCRTs... On the tube you have hanging behind your drive bays, you may want to consider putting it up top, possibly in the top/back of your case, and horizontal. Its just pulling attention from your unit otherwise... giggity... and on the other one, thats looks alright where it is, but is there any way you could hide it in the case vertically, to the right of your motherboard? just a couple little ideas to possibly help your case looks a bit ^^


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
hey matt, couple ideas if you're willing to listen as to the placement of those CCRTs... On the tube you have hanging behind your drive bays, you may want to consider putting it up top, possibly in the top/back of your case, and horizontal. Its just pulling attention from your unit otherwise... giggity... and on the other one, thats looks alright where it is, but is there any way you could hide it in the case vertically, to the right of your motherboard? just a couple little ideas to possibly help your case looks a bit ^^

I put one up on the right side of the motherboard and left the one on the ground. Not much UV going on in my case. But if I go UV tubing. I'm sure this would be optimal to lighten up all of my tubes









Thanks for the suggestion!


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 
I put one up on the right side of the motherboard and left the one on the ground. Not much UV going on in my case. But if I go UV tubing. I'm sure this would be optimal to lighten up all of my tubes









Thanks for the suggestion!

eh no prob ^^ your case is lookin good, and lighting can be a pain, I know


----------



## tuffstuff

ill try to get some better pics but i got my kit in tonight and its running great


----------



## Jonesey I7

How in the world do we drain this kit when needed?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
How in the world do we drain this kit when needed?

I figured when it comes to draining, i'll just pull the hose on my rad which is hanging on the back of my case and drain it from there. Simple


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 
I figured when it comes to draining, i'll just pull the hose on my rad which is hanging on the back of my case and drain it from there. Simple









I guess.... aren't these hoses dang near impossible to get off though?

edit: p.s....Mbudden, the rx360 kit now for sale at jab-tech. (Naturally, the day after i finish ordering my stuff)


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
I guess.... aren't these hoses dang near impossible to get off though?

edit: p.s....Mbudden, the rx360 kit now for sale at jab-tech. (Naturally, the day after i finish ordering my stuff)

Haha. Not that I know of. I just do some wiggling and it comes off. I don't see how everyone has a problem with it.









& I need to edit the OP.
I hate doing it because every time I do it. The forum messes it up, removing a lot of the formatting. Forcing me to go and reformat everything again. Annoying... LOL. I'll add it though


----------



## Jonesey I7

p.s.s......Mbudden, how you gonna have this great start to a great club, and not have it in your sig!?!?!?!?


----------



## mbudden

Idk what you're talking about


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
How in the world do we drain this kit when needed?

Just had to drain mine a while ago, I simply took trashcan and pulled the computer to the edge of the desk (made sure the rest of my components were protected)and cut the tube slightly on the bottom and let it drain for a little bit and then cut the tube all the way and let it drain.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lutro0* 
Just had to drain mine a while ago, I simply took trashcan and pulled the computer to the edge of the desk (made sure the rest of my components were protected)and cut the tube slightly on the bottom and let it drain for a little bit and then cut the tube all the way and let it drain.

Is your rad piggybacked? Did you cut it there?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 
Idk what you're talking about









Yea, me neither


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
Is your rad piggybacked? Did you cut it there?

Yes it is and yea that was the easiest spot to cut the hose, But I did a cut inside the case as well to drain some water that was just hangen out. I probably could have tilted the case to get it out but it is a ravenrv01 and I had no helping hands.









But the whole process was really easy. Although, I could not just wiggle the tubes off all the parts though like mbudden. I had to take an exacto knife and cut a small line in the tubing from the bottom of the barb up, making sure to just cut the tubing and not the barb. Then the tube comes right off.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


How in the world do we drain this kit when needed?


I can't pull my hoses, what I do it remove the CPU block and cut the hose.


----------



## [Adz]

I'm in








Going for a fully internal loop in an Antec 900 with the RS240 combo. 
I don't have proper photos yet, but here's a post with some from my case mod work log: link (test fitting section)
Don't add these to the spreadsheet, I'll have proper photos once I finish my mod (after xmas).


----------



## Jonesey I7

so I guess I should leave a little amount of extra tubing on each part with the anticipation that I will have to cut them somewhere at some point down the road huh, just to be safe?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[Adz]* 
I'm in








Going for a fully internal loop in an Antec 900 with the RS240 combo.
I don't have proper photos yet, but here's a post with some from my case mod work log: link (test fitting section)
Don't add these to the spreadsheet, I'll have proper photos once I finish my mod (after xmas).

Can't wait to see the finish product, its look good so far.


----------



## [Adz]

Thanks


----------



## kingofyo1

what made you decide to mount in the front instead of up top or around the back?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


what made you decide to mount in the front instead of up top or around the back?


I wanted it internal because it looks neater like that and also because I didn't realise that those silver metal pieces are what I needed to actually mount it so I thought I'd have to fabricate/buy another mount for it. If I had known what those pieces were for, I might have given up a long time ago and mounted it out the back.
As for up top, I did consider it. But then I found that half of it would line up fine with the 200mm fan in there, but the other half would just be pressed up against the metal in the case, which makes the fans notably louder. 
So I figured it's best to put it in the front where it has access to the most air and isn't being restricted by anything.

Also, a question about the loop order. Should it always be pump/res -> rad -> cpu -> pump/res? Because until reading this thread and watching the videos, I assumed that it would be pump/res -> cpu -> rad -> pump/res.


----------



## GoodInk

Most say the only thing that matters in loop order is that the res is before the pump. The water moves through the tubing too fast to really change temps that much.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Most say the only thing that matters in loop order is that the res is before the pump. The water moves through the tubing too fast to really change temps that much.


In that case, it'd probably be better if I go for pump/res->rad->cpu->pump/res on the grounds that it'll be neater.
Pathetic attempt at demonstrating, with Paint:


----------



## kingofyo1

soem say its best to have as little line in your loop as possible, others say its best to have the cpu right after the rad as first suggested. I have mine with longer lines, rad hanging out back, and my cpu is after the radiator, that way i get the cooler temps from post rad instead of having the water sitting in the res and then going straight to cpu before getting cooled off and sitting in the res some more


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


soem say its best to have as little line in your loop as possible, others say its best to have the cpu right after the rad as first suggested. I have mine with longer lines, rad hanging out back, and my cpu is after the radiator, that way i get the cooler temps from post rad instead of having the water sitting in the res and then going straight to cpu before getting cooled off and sitting in the res some more


I get what you mean. I guess I will be putting the rad before the cpu then


----------



## wermad

all liquid temps will equalize, there will be maybe a marginal difference of .01+/-, therefore, there is no difference if you place the rad before or after the block.. This dead-horse has been beaten quite extensively. I personally have tried both and there was no difference.

some wc tips typically shared among enthusiasts:

-cpu block goes first in a multi block setup
-use the least amount of tube/plumbing.
-The pump should be after the res, this really does not apply to the X20-750 tbh







but if you get a seperate pump and res in the future, keep this mind.

All of this I picked up reading countless of threads, debates, and reviews. these were my last two builds before the 800d wip one (within one year







):

1)


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*




















What kit is that!


----------



## wermad

Mountain Mods Extended Ascenion, $550 usd case, click on my second link to read that epic odyssey.

edit: my first build was a HAF 932 with two RS360 radiators inside







click on the last link to see that one.


----------



## ErBall

Well I just ordered an RX360 kit to go along with my incoming Corsair 800d that my gf ordered me for Christmas.

Sometimes I just love this time of year.


----------



## [Adz]

Girlfriend win.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ErBall* 
Well I just ordered an RX360 kit to go along with my incoming Corsair 800d that my gf ordered me for Christmas.

Sometimes I just love this time of year.









Sounds like a keeper







Wait what am I saying







lol


----------



## ErBall

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoodInk* 
Sounds like a keeper







Wait what am I saying







lol

All in good time.

Am i correct in saying the only difference between the two kits are the rads that come with them?


----------



## [Adz]

You'll also get an extra fan (+grille) and more screws with a 360


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ErBall* 
All in good time.

Am i correct in saying the only difference between the two kits are the rads that come with them?

Yea rads and fans and screws are only thing differt you have the rs240 rs360 rx240 rx360 and the differnce being the rads mainly and amount of fans.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Do you guys think the rs360 rad, with 6 75cfm fans p/p will be enough for my 6870 and cpu and the speeds in my sig? I wish i would have seen the rx360 kit before i ordered [email protected]!

Here's my VERY CRUDE NOVICE paint attempt at what I'm thinking to do


----------



## [Adz]

On a rear mount, will push fans really make much of a difference (except for the one inline with the rear exhaust hole in the case)? Looking at your picture, and from real photos of similar rear mounts, I wouldn't expect the bottom two (or maybe 1 depending on how many rear-exhaust holes your case has) to actually be able to push any air because it's near enough flush against the back of your case.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[Adz]* 
On a rear mount, will push fans really make much of a difference (except for the one inline with the rear exhaust hole in the case)? Looking at your picture, and from real photos of similar rear mounts, I wouldn't expect the bottom two (or maybe 1 depending on how many rear-exhaust holes your case has) to actually be able to push any air because it's near enough flush against the back of your case.

well, I have 3 extra fans.... two from my megahalems, and one i had zip tied in the hdd cage to help cool my video card. I figured, there is about 2-4 1/2 inches between the case and the rad, and if I already have the extra fans....?

Well, then what i will do is mount it higher, without the bottom push fan, put my mounts there, and the other two will be above the case, moving plenty air. Sounds good to me, how bout you?

Like so....


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
so I guess I should leave a little amount of extra tubing on each part with the anticipation that I will have to cut them somewhere at some point down the road huh, just to be safe?

I don't see how everyone has to cut theirs.
I just simply pull it off the barb. Not straight out, but off to the side and it pops off.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[Adz]* 
Girlfriend win.

This.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
well, I have 3 extra fans.... two from my megahalems, and one i had zip tied in the hdd cage to help cool my video card. I figured, there is about 2-4 1/2 inches between the case and the rad, and if I already have the extra fans....?

Well, then what i will do is mount it higher, without the bottom push fan, put my mounts there, and the other two will be above the case, moving plenty air. Sounds good to me, how bout you?

Like so....


4 inches sounds like just enough clearance, but I don't think 2 would be effective.

I'm assuming that you're using the Thermaltake Element G in your sigrig (just curious: red, blue, green or other?).








Using that picture for reference, if I'm understanding you correctly, you would have the bottom 120 section of the rad inline with the 120mm rear-exhaust vent, which would leave 2x120mm sections of the rad coming up behind the top of the case. In that case, you would be able to have 6 fans in p/p.

Mockup:









Edit: Damn, you edited yours with a picture before I posted xD


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[Adz]* 
4 inches sounds like just enough clearance, but I don't think 2 would be effective.

I'm assuming that you're using the Thermaltake Element G in your sigrig (just curious: red, blue, green or other?).








Using that picture for reference, if I'm understanding you correctly, you would have the bottom 120 section of the rad inline with the 120mm rear-exhaust vent, which would leave 2x120mm sections of the rad coming up behind the top of the case. In that case, you would be able to have 6 fans in p/p.

Mockup:









Edit: Damn, you edited yours with a picture before I posted xD

Oh yea, DUH, I wouldn't even have to leave off the bottom push fan as it WILL sit inline with the 140mm fan on the back. Thank you for helping my brain fart lol. Now I'm just scared that the 6 1/2 feet of tubing isn't going to be enough, as I didn't anticipate on needing any more, so I didn't order any extra. Anyone know if you can get proper tubing at maybe a hardware store or somewhere, as there are no water cooling pc stores here.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
Oh yea, DUH, I wouldn't even have to leave off the bottom push fan as it WILL sit inline with the 140mm fan on the back. Thank you for helping my brain fart lol. Now I'm just scared that the 6 1/2 feet of tubing isn't going to be enough, as I didn't anticipate on needing any more, so I didn't order any extra. Anyone know if you can get proper tubing at maybe a hardware store or somewhere, as there are no water cooling pc stores here.

No problem








Any tubing should do fine, as long as it's the right inner diameter and is thick enough (outer diameter). I recently bought aquarium tubing for my dad on eBay which I think would do the trick.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[Adz]* 
No problem








Any tubing should do fine, as long as it's the right inner diameter and is thick enough (outer diameter). I recently bought aquarium tubing for my dad on eBay which I think would do the trick.

Yea, but I dont wanna have to wait an extra minute when i get this kit, so I guess I'll have to find an aquarium store here in town.

Does anyone know if the metal mounts supplied with the kit to piggyback the rad can be screwed to fans and not the rad it'self?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
Yea, but I dont wanna have to wait an extra minute when i get this kit, so I guess I'll have to find an aquarium store here in town.

Does anyone know if the metal mounts supplied with the kit to piggyback the rad can be screwed to fans and not the rad it'self?

I doubt it. Doubt the fan could actually hold up the rad.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mbudden* 
I doubt it. Doubt the fan could actually hold up the rad.

Shoot!!! Then I guess it will be a 5 fan setup, the three supplied fans in pull on the back of the rad, and my two apevia's in push in the top two slots... leaving the bottom 120mm spot for the mounts. Even only having two pushing will warrant better performance than just the supplied 3 in pull right? I really don't mean to ask so many questions, but I've never watercooled and I don't want to make any mistakes.

*AND I REALLY APPRECIATE YOU GUYS EXPERTISE.*


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
Shoot!!! Then I guess it will be a 5 fan setup, the three supplied fans in pull on the back of the rad, and my two apevia's in push in the top two slots... leaving the bottom 120mm spot for the mounts. Even only having two pushing will warrant better performance than just the supplied 3 in pull right? I really don't mean to ask so many questions, but I've never watercooled and I don't want to make any mistakes.

*AND I REALLY APPRECIATE YOU GUYS EXPERTISE.*

I've never watercooled either, so don't trust me








But yeah, 3x Pull + 2x Push is better than just 3x Pull. I'm actually doing the same but minus 1 because I'm only using the 240 (so mine will be 2x Push, 1x Pull).


----------



## kingofyo1

true. if u can afford the extra it'll help if even minutely


----------



## avattz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7* 
Yea, but I dont wanna have to wait an extra minute when i get this kit, so I guess I'll have to find an aquarium store here in town.

Does anyone know if the metal mounts supplied with the kit to piggyback the rad can be screwed to fans and not the rad it'self?

If you use the long screws you can transfer the weight of the reservoir to the case, bypassing the fan entirely, and use the O-rings that came with the kit to counter the "torque" of the reservoir (place them between the metal mounts and the fan).

Not sure if you can squeeze the fan grill in between all that though...


----------



## J-Gamer_builder

Later if i have my system used for a while i 'll use this kit but i have apair of questions so please help


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J-Gamer_builder;11632281*
> Later if i have my system used for a while i 'll use this kit but i have apair of questions so please help


Fire away


----------



## Jonesey I7

Well, tomorrow is the BIG DAY!!! Got my computer prepped today.... removed punchouts for tubbing, put in my cathode, ripped my 6870 apart and got it cleaned up, re routed some cables in anticipation. Will have pics (HOPEFULLY) by the time I get off work.... (Yes, I will be doing my own stuff at work all day tomorrow :d)


----------



## [Adz]

<div class="quote-container"><span>Quote:</span>
<div class="quote-block">Originally Posted by <strong>Jonesey I7;11637976</strong> <br>
Well, tomorrow is the BIG DAY!!! Got my computer prepped today.... removed punchouts for tubbing, put in my cathode, ripped my 6870 apart and got it cleaned up, re routed some cables in anticipation. Will have pics (HOPEFULLY) by the time I get off work.... (Yes, I will be doing my own stuff at work all day tomorrow :d)</div>
</div>
Hope it goes well. Keep us updated


----------



## Jonesey I7

<div class="quote-container"><span>Quote:</span>
<div class="quote-block">Originally Posted by <strong>[Adz];11638048</strong> <br>
Hope it goes well. Keep us updated</div>
</div>
<br>
Will make sure to take a camera with me..... well, I'll try to make sure, I smoked pot for faaaaaaaaaaaar too long in life, and it catches up with me here and there lol <img alt="eek.gif" class="bbcode_smiley" src="https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/eek.gif">


----------



## Zaxbys

For a simple CPU loop will a 120 or 240 rad work better?


----------



## [Adz]

240 will give you better temps because there's a larger surface area for heat dispersion, but a 120 will probably more than enough for an E7200 (assuming you'll be using it on your sig-rig). But with an i7, I'd say go with the 240 simply because it'll give you better temps.

As was said in the video earlier in the thread, the only time a larger rad won't benefit you is when you're only a few degrees away from ambient temperatures, which would take a ridiculously large amount of radiators.

So in short: 240 will work better, but 120 might be sufficient


----------



## Jonesey I7

And my life NEVER FAILS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The butt wipes down at the post office must have KNOWN it was my birthday......... The stuff had a scheduled delivery date of YESTERDAY and these people STILL have not brought it today. I'm so pissed right now, that i'm not even mad anymore, I really just feel like crying.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11645721*
> And my life NEVER FAILS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The butt wipes down at the post office must have KNOWN it was my birthday......... The stuff had a scheduled delivery date of YESTERDAY and these people STILL have not brought it today. I'm so pissed right now, that i'm not even mad anymore, I really just feel like crying.










HAPPY B-DAY!!!!

yeah, shipping couriers seem to know when you need your package the most and delay it, damn party-poopers


----------



## Haseo461x

got mine installed last night in my new rig.. pics soon!

LOVE THIS THING


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11645721*
> And my life NEVER FAILS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The butt wipes down at the post office must have KNOWN it was my birthday......... The stuff had a scheduled delivery date of YESTERDAY and these people STILL have not brought it today. I'm so pissed right now, that i'm not even mad anymore, I really just feel like crying.


Happy birthday







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haseo461x;11647167*
> got mine installed last night in my new rig.. pics soon!
> 
> LOVE THIS THING


What sort of temps are you pulling?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haseo461x;11647167*
> got mine installed last night in my new rig.. Pics soon!
> 
> Love this thing










pics nao.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11645721*
> And my life NEVER FAILS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The butt wipes down at the post office must have KNOWN it was my birthday......... The stuff had a scheduled delivery date of YESTERDAY and these people STILL have not brought it today. I'm so pissed right now, that i'm not even mad anymore, I really just feel like crying.


Yep they did that to me on stuff i orderd lol made me so mad im waiting for it and boom didnt come. On another note im ordering my stuff this friday lol costing alot more then i orginaly planned but i think i will be happy.
Quote:


> jab-tech.com coupon facebook
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 CPU watercooling kit = $189.95
> Antimicrobial Silver Strip 8" Silver Strip = 4.95
> PrimoChill Black Steel Spring Hose Clamps for 5/8in.OD Tubing = $7.90
> XSPC RX240 - Dual 120mm high performance radiator = $65.95
> PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD = $16.00
> 
> Subtotal: $284.75
> Discount coupon Unset Coupon : $14.25
> Discounted subtotal: $270.50
> Shipping cost: $13.84
> Total: $284.34
> 
> frozencpu coupon PCAPEX
> EK Radeon HD 5870 VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acrylic (EK-FC5870) - 1 $99.95 $99.95
> Danger Den G 1/4" High Flow Thread Barb - 1/2" ID - 10 $2.49 $24.90
> Arctic Silver 5 (High-Density Silver Thermal Compound) - 3.5 Grams (AS5-3.5G) - $7.99
> 
> Item Total: $132.84
> Shipping: $9.07
> Tax: $0.00
> Subtotal: $141.91
> Discounts: -$6.64
> Grand Total: $135.27
> 
> Total Combined= 419.61


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11605939*
> oops I missed you there, sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1), as mentioned the kit has a jumper, or go ghetto fab, undo a medium/large paper clip into a "U" w/ one end a tad longer then the other, insert one into the green wire, there is only one, and the other into any black/ground.
> 2) Bleeding: this is what I do and it works great for me: don't top off your res leave about 1/4" of space and leave the fill port OPENED. As your leak testing, tap the tubes a bit and the rad and res. you'll see a lot of bubbles in the res and that's why its important to leave the fill port open. try not to rock your rig to avoid spilling water. keep filling the res as the water level drops due to escaping (bleeding) air.
> 3)Install dvd drive below the res to have access to that fill port. either use a small funnel or a squeeze bottle to add water as your bleeding air. I have some thing like this, the curve straw makes it easy to insert into the fillport and I just squeeze the amount i need


Where can I get a bottle like that??


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11649927*
> Where can I get a bottle like that??


I'm sure you could pick one up at the grocery store.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Where can I get a bottle like that??


I thk im just going to pickup a oil funnel from autozone to fill my loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Where can I get a bottle like that??


check out pharmacies too,


----------



## mbudden

I just used a water bottle that I cut in half. Worked perfect for me.

Edit. BTW. I always see a "Jab-Tech" come in here.
Is that actually someone from Jab-Tech?


----------



## wermad

hmm, possibly. I like them, they just have a limited selection of items







. best shipping prices and no tax for me


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


hmm, possibly. I like them, they just have a limited selection of items







. best shipping prices and no tax for me










I haven't bought from them before. Might check it out. I bought from FrozenCPU because they are in NY and it takes about one day for their stuff to get to me. I like to shop places where shipping is cheap & I can get stuff fast. Like Newegg.







Their warehouse is in NJ. Perfect


----------



## wermad

I get slammed w/ Cali tax w/ newegg, though shipping from their SoCal warehouse is super fast 1-2 days.


----------



## mbudden

Yeah. I could see how that could suck lol.


----------



## DiNet

Is there any legit review that contains:
OC'ed cpu to at least 4ghz (intel preferably, since it produces more heat then amd)
High end Air cooling


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Guess you can remove me from the list im not getting the kit now tho i am getitng the rx360 rad and rasa cpu block and a XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir for Laing DDC pump. I just decided to go with the stronger pump and drop the extra rad for now but have enugh pump power to add one later on.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiNet;11654699*
> Is there any legit review that contains:
> OC'ed cpu to at least 4ghz (intel preferably, since it produces more heat then amd)
> High end Air cooling


Not that I know of.
Unless someone wants to make a review.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11654733*
> Guess you can remove me from the list im not getting the kit now tho i am getitng the rx360 rad and rasa cpu block and a XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25" Reservoir for Laing DDC pump. I just decided to go with the stronger pump and drop the extra rad for now but have enugh pump power to add one later on.


either way you with all those parts, you got the kit, but then got an updated pump! you can still be on the spreadsheet and in the club sir lol


----------



## [Adz]

Would the RS240 handle a Q9650 OC'd to 4GHz AND a GTX470?
Edit: 3 fans - 2 push and 1 pull.


----------



## kingofyo1

did some new pics and some updating yesterday, at 4 am lol so here's how it turned out:


















































































in conclusion: i single sleeved just about everything that was non modular on the psu, and this week, i'll be doing the rest (molex, sata etc) to finish off the single sleeving look. Lemme know what ya think


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11657678*
> Would the RS240 handle a Q9650 OC'd to 4GHz AND a GTX470?


I would say no.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11657678*
> Would the RS240 handle a Q9650 OC'd to 4GHz AND a GTX470?
> Edit: 3 fans - 2 push and 1 pull.


RS240 would be cutting it kinda close, but it should handle the temps below max just fine


----------



## [Adz]

Thanks. I'll give it a try, if not, I'll add a 120 to the case floor.... Would that be enough extra?
Thinking about it, I could possibly put another 240 on the floor or do a rear-mount, but if a 120 would be enough...


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodink;11657716*
> i would say no.


rs360.


----------



## wheth4400

I have the 240 kit sitting under the tree.. I can't wait to get it in the computer and all setup!


----------



## kingofyo1

well, if adz gets the 120 to add to the loop with the 240, then it'll be equal to a rs360 lol just give a 240 a shot, and if its not enough then put in a 120 or another 240. problem solved lol


----------



## mbudden

Flush your rad before you throw it all together.
It seems like something weird is going on and something has contaminated my tubing...


----------



## [Adz]

Yep, that's what I plan to do. I'm just dreading the tube management.

Should I go:
a) res/pump -> Rad A -> CPU -> GPU -> Rad B -> res/pump
b) res/pump -> Rad A -> CPU -> Rad B -> GPU -> res/pump
c) res/pump -> Rad A -> Rad B -> CPU -> GPU -> res/pump
d) res/pump -> Rad A -> Rad B -> GPU -> CPU -> res/pump *AFAIK, CPU should always come first*
e) Other (please specify)









mbudden - speaking of flushing the rad - mine looks a rust colour on the inside. Obviously I can't see the colour too well, but I've not even used it yet.


----------



## mbudden

Hmm.
Res/Pump > CPU > Rad B > GPU > Rad A > Res/Pump ?
Idk lol


----------



## kingofyo1

Personally, I'd go res/pump>rad a>rad b>cpu>gpu>res/pump


----------



## Bal3Wolf

From what i been told the order of the loop does not matter the water temps will be the same after a few hrs.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11658066*
> Personally, I'd go res/pump>rad a>rad b>cpu>gpu>res/pump


With this waterblock, I have the following diagram:









If I'm not mistaken, it would be possible to have both the inlet and outlet at the top, right? So it doesn't have to go in at the top and out underneath.

If so, then I can do res/pump -> Rad A -> Rad B -> CPU -> GPU -> res/pump. Otherwise, after the GPU, the tube would have to come back on itself in a 180 to get to the res/pump which wouldn't be very good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11658054*
> Hmm.
> Res/Pump > CPU > Rad B > GPU > Rad A > Res/Pump ?
> Idk lol


That would work with a rear-mounted res, which is a possibility. With a floor mounted res, it would still be doable (assuming my assumptions about the waterblock that I stated above are correct), but not as pretty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11658143*
> From what i been told the order of the loop does not matter the water temps will be the same after a few hrs.


I don't often use my computer for hours on end xD The majority of the time, I'm only on it for less than half an hour before I put it to sleep and go do something else. That said, once I finish building it, I might actually sit at it for longer.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11658326*
> That would work with a rear-mounted res, which is a possibility. With a floor mounted res, it would still be doable (assuming my assumptions about the waterblock that I stated above are correct), but not as pretty.


The thing I worry about is your piping going up and then down, up and then down. From what I remember, it makes your pump work harder.


----------



## taylorb095

I received my XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Kit yesterday. The install went pretty well for the first time doing something like this. My question is, after looking at some other users install of the RS360 radiator mounted on the outside rear, I am wondering if I have installed it wrong. I have my barbs up top, will this present a problem? I am wondering if I should take it off and flip it around. I was also confused on which holes were in and out on this radiator.

Heres a pic of mine:









And heres a pic of 2 other users for comparison:

















Thanks for the help


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taylorb095;11658434*
> I received my XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Kit yesterday. The install went pretty well for the first time doing something like this. My question is, after looking at some other users install of the RS360 radiator mounted on the outside rear, I am wondering if I have installed it wrong. I have my barbs up top, will this present a problem? I am wondering if I should take it off and flip it around. I was also confused on which holes were in and out on this radiator.


Like I said above, I believe it makes your pump work harder when you're trying to have water pump upwards. That's why I installed my rad downwards so it isn't so tough on the pump. But that's me. The pump is good, I'd just like to have the least amount of resistance.


----------



## kingofyo1

^x2.. resistance is key here with water. the least resistance, the least extra work the pump has to do, which also means the longer it will last. extra strain will kill the hell out of a pump. If you can, flip your rad around so your barbs are at the bottom. On the radiator, there is no real In and Out ports, its all the same. I tested this a little bit before i put it all together. the only parts of your loop that have actual in and out ports, are the pump and the block


----------



## mm67

This is how a radiator is built, makes no difference to resistance if ports are up or down.


----------



## mm67

This is how a radiator is built, makes no difference to resistance if ports are up or down.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Day three after the "projected delivery date"......... STILL NO FREAGGIN LOOP!!!!!! I OFFICIALLY HAAAAAAAAAAAATE USPS!!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Call them maybe it got lost or somthing is it even in your town ?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;11658720*
> This is how a radiator is built, makes no difference to resistance if ports are up or down.


That's what I thought, but I also think that having it barbs up top would be better since it's going down first being helped by gravity, so it has some speed/momentum to help push it back up. Whereas with the barbs at the bottom, the pump has to do all the work to push it up and then gravity helps it down again on the other side.

At least, that's how it was explained to me at school using rollercoasters as an example.


----------



## mbudden

Added a Unboxing Video in the OP.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11658792*
> Added a Unboxing Video in the OP.


Cool its a nice kit im getting almost all the parts in it but i opted for primochill tubing and a mcp655 pump.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11658787*
> Call them maybe it got lost or somthing is it even in your town ?


THAT is another b-e-a-utiful part of this saga, Frozencpu skimped out on the fuggin 85 cents to put a GOD FORSAKEN TRACKING NUMBER ON IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11658849*
> Cool its a nice kit im getting almost all the parts in it but i opted for primochill tubing and a mcp655 pump.


Might need to pick me up some tubing.
I did read about this plasticization or whatever.
Seems to be something that happens to clear tubing.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11658873*
> THAT is another b-e-a-utiful part of this saga, Frozencpu skimped out on the fuggin 85 cents to put a GOD FORSAKEN TRACKING NUMBER ON IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


damn lol now you got me worryied ordering my water block from them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11658890*
> Might need to pick me up some tubing.
> I did read about this plasticization or whatever.
> Seems to be something that happens to clear tubing.


Lol yea but now i cant decide what color i want red, blue, black, or white. my case will be painted black my boards blue i was thinking the red would blend good with the black.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11658892*
> damn lol now you got me worryied ordering my water block from them.


Order jab tech or whatever the site is called, and you won't have to worry about the heart aches I have. They charged me 25 dollars to ship "2-3 day" priority mail..... it's day 6 with no tracking number, and still nada


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11658873*
> THAT is another b-e-a-utiful part of this saga, Frozencpu skimped out on the fuggin 85 cents to put a GOD FORSAKEN TRACKING NUMBER ON IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I used Fedex. It was the cheapest one on their list.
And it included a tracking number.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11658905*
> Order jab tech or whatever the site is called, and you won't have to worry about the heart aches I have. They charged me 25 dollars to ship "2-3 day" priority mail..... it's day 6 with no tracking number, and still nada


Oh im ordering 90% of my stuff from jab-tech but they dont carry the waterblock or have any dangerden high flow fittings in stock. And id call or email frozen cpu and ask for some refund on shipping for sure.
Quote:


> jab-tech.com coupon facebook
> 
> XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetel - 49.95
> Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12 VDC Pump Without speed controller - 69.95
> XSPC RX360 - Triple 120mm high performance radiator- 86.95
> XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25" Reservoir for Laing D5 - 49.95
> PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD - 8feet 12.80
> PrimoChill Black Steel Spring Hose Clamps for 5/8in.OD Tubing - 10 clamps 7.90
> Antimicrobial Silver Strip 8" Silver Strip - 4.95
> 1/2" T Line for 1/2" ID Tubing - Black - 0.99
> Enzotech FillPort - Matt Black - BNPH-ID1/2-G14 - 6.99
> 
> Subtotal: $302.32
> Discount coupon Unset Coupon : $15.14
> Discounted subtotal: $287.18
> Shipping cost: $13.73
> Total: $300.91
> 
> frozencpu.com coupon PCAPEX
> EK Radeon HD 5870 VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acrylic (EK-FC5870) - 1 $99.95 $99.95
> Danger Den G 1/4" High Flow Thread Barb - 1/2" ID - 10 $2.49 $24.90
> Arctic Silver 5 (High-Density Silver Thermal Compound) - 3.5 Grams (AS5-3.5G) - $7.99
> 
> Item Total: $132.84
> Shipping: $9.07
> Tax: $0.00
> Subtotal: $141.91
> Discounts: -$6.64
> Grand Total: $135.27
> 
> Total Combined = 436.18


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11658907*
> I used Fedex. It was the cheapest one on their list.
> And it included a tracking number.


The only reason I used usps was because they count saturday as a day in the 2-3 day bs sloooooooooowgin, and as I ordered on a Friday, the irony here, I wanted it asap. What a joke. It's so bad, I'm not even excited about this loop anymore.


----------



## LuckY07

I figured I should post this in here. I wasn't sure if the backplate on the rasa 750 would fit on my asus p7p55d-e motherboard due to the metal backing on the board with the 3 screws. Here is a picture of the back of my board, notice how my current backplate for the ECO c240 hits the top 2 screws.










I wasn't sure if this kit came with a backplate that would fit this board and/or risers to lift the backplate enough to clear the screws and plate?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckY07;11658954*
> I figured I should post this in here. I wasn't sure if the backplate on the rasa 750 would fit on my asus p7p55d-e motherboard due to the metal backing on the board with the 3 screws. Here is a picture of the back of my board, notice how my current backplate for the ECO c240 hits the top 2 screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't sure if this kit came with a backplate that would fit this board and/or risers to lift the backplate enough to clear the screws and plate?


go back to like pg. 5 or 6 or something, someone tells you how to use the stock amd backplate. Just drill out the holes with a 5/32 bit, and sand them down about 3/4 of the way down.

EDIT: *OH, duh, you're intel..... Good luck lol.*


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11658976*
> go back to like pg. 5 or 6 or something, someone tells you how to use the stock amd backplate. Just drill out the holes with a 5/32 bit, and sand them down about 3/4 of the way down.


He has a intel system lol amd backplate wont help him and it should fit on my i7 board it was same way for my mega tight but it worked.


----------



## LuckY07

I guess I might have to contact the company directly and ask them. I would assume you can simply get some kind of risers that will lift it up slightly but I'm not exactly sure if that would be recommended. Either that or use some sort of universal CPU backplate w/ the rasa 750..


----------



## wermad

use spacers, EK includes spacers for the 1156/1366 backplates. if you don't have any, use a bunch of metal washers and use one fiber/nylon washer for the ones that will contact your mb. good luck


----------



## mbudden

Why not use the little plastic washers that come in the AMD kit?


----------



## LuckY07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11659548*
> Why not use the little plastic washers that come in the AMD kit?


Which AMD kit are you referring to? The washers in the RASA 750 kit?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


With this waterblock, I have the following diagram:









If I'm not mistaken, it would be possible to have both the inlet and outlet at the top, right? So it doesn't have to go in at the top and out underneath.


Yes you can, that is how I have my 5870 with an EK block. For the 120 I would go with a thinker one like the RX or a second 240 thin style like the RS. Here are some temps of my rig. I have the RS240 intaking in the front as the second rad, and the RX120 blowing out the back as the first rad. Loop order is pump>RX120>CPU>GPU>RS240>Pump cooling an i5 750 at 4.0GHz 1.425V and the 5870 stock.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11660277*
> Yes you can, that is how I have my 5870 with an EK block. For the 120 I would go with a thinker one like the RX or a second 240 thin style like the RS. Here are some temps of my rig. I have the RS240 intaking in the front as the second rad, and the RX120 blowing out the back as the first rad. Loop order is pump>RX120>CPU>GPU>RS240>Pump cooling an i5 750 at 4.0GHz 1.425V and the 5870 stock.


Only time this would not be an option is using huge compression fittings, I've tried it before w/ 1/2x3/4. barbs are fine and dandy.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11659548*
> Why not use the little plastic washers that come in the AMD kit?


If this question is about mounting, because a backplate takes 10x the stress off your motherboard, and even the one review I found for this kit says " if used for any length of time, use a backplate"


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Yes you can, that is how I have my 5870 with an EK block. For the 120 I would go with a thinker one like the RX or a second 240 thin style like the RS. Here are some temps of my rig. I have the RS240 intaking in the front as the second rad, and the RX120 blowing out the back as the first rad. Loop order is pump>RX120>CPU>GPU>RS240>Pump cooling an i5 750 at 4.0GHz 1.425V and the 5870 stock.


Awesome, thanks









Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Only time this would not be an option is using huge compression fittings, I've tried it before w/ 1/2x3/4. barbs are fine and dandy.


Woah, glad you mentioned that. Just about to buy these... are they going to be too big?


----------



## wermad

those ek ones are good, though, just to be safe, send them an email, its their block and fittings, and they should have an answer for you. they reply really quick btw.


----------



## [Adz]

Thanks. I registered on their site and opened a ticket


----------



## Ivan TSI

Did anyone know where i can get this kit:

http://www.watercoolingshop.co.uk/XS...Kit_ASLZG.aspx

im looking to replace my H50 with this one.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

front page list sites that carry the rx and rs kits. Mainly jab-tech and frozencpu in the usa.


----------



## [Adz]

Okay, I've figured out what I'm going to do. 
I'm going to get an RX120 and mount it in the rear exhaust slot. That way, it's still all internal, and should be capable of handling my gpu and cpu. 
Loop order: Res/Pump -> RS240 -> RX120 -> CPU -> GPU -> Res/Pump.
Diagram:









That seem alright?


----------



## wermad

an alternative: res/pump>240>cpu>120>gpu>res/pump

though the rs 240 should be fine for both cpu and gpu imo


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


front page list sites that carry the rx and rs kits. Mainly jab-tech and frozencpu in the usa.


Yes but they don't carry the 450 kit (smaller resrvior/pump) only the 750 kit (dual-bay reservior pump) and i need to fit the rad in the front bay as an intake to get cold air since the gpu's leave the hot air inside the case and with the 750 reservior/pump that will be impossible.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Okay, I've figured out what I'm going to do. 
I'm going to get an RX120 and mount it in the rear exhaust slot. That way, it's still all internal, and should be capable of handling my gpu and cpu. 
Loop order: Res/Pump -> RS240 -> RX120 -> CPU -> GPU -> Res/Pump.
Diagram:









That seem alright?


One thing I'm not digging with my setup is, the RX120 covers the heat sinks on the MB and no air is getting to them. If you look at the pics of my setup on the first page you'll see what I mean. If you have the same problem, I would remove the MB shield and try to get positive pressure in the case. This way the air will move over the heat sinks and out the back.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


an alternative: res/pump>240>cpu>120>gpu>res/pump

though the rs 240 should be fine for both cpu and gpu imo


I would use that order too, the only reason I have mine the way I do is because of the tight space to route the tubing, it looks like I tied a knot with my tubing.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


an alternative: res/pump>240>cpu>120>gpu>res/pump

though the rs 240 should be fine for both cpu and gpu imo


Could also do that, might look a little neater, but the extra rad before the cpu should give me an extra few degrees, right? I don't intend to heavily OC the GPU anyway, so even if the RS240 could handle it, I'm happy to have that little bit extra. 
Also, reading around before I decided on watercooling, I pretty much found that it was "impossible" to have an all-internal loop in an Antec 900 without making sacrificing hard drives. I wanna have 2-rad, all internal loop and still have the option to mount as many hard drives as I want


----------



## wermad

have you bought the kit or rad already? if not, get the RX240, thats plenty enough and mount it externally on the back of the case.

Pump/res>cpu>gpu>>rad>res/pump


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


One thing I'm not digging with my setup is, the RX120 covers the heat sinks on the MB and no air is getting to them. If you look at the pics of my setup on the first page you'll see what I mean. If you have the same problem, I would remove the MB shield and try to get positive pressure in the case. This way the air will move over the heat sinks and out the back.

I would use that order too, the only reason I have mine the way I do is because of the tight space to route the tubing, it looks like I tied a knot with my tubing.










I see what you mean. Man, the RX is really thicker than I expected, and I was hoping to go for Push/Pull on that. 
I've got the 200mm fan up top, which should provide a little bit of outward airflow where the RX120 covers, but the UD3 boards generally hold their own when it comes to temperatures.

At the moment, I'm using Coolermaster R4's (90cfm model) with red LED's. Seeing as the RX120 is so thick, I don't think the R4 will be enough. What's the best fan to get that either has red or black blades with red or no LED's?
I know the Scythe GentleTyphoons are popular, but they've got white/grey blades that won't look right to me.

Edit: 
Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


have you bought the kit or rad already? if not, get the RX240, thats plenty enough and mount it externally on the back of the case.

Pump/res>cpu>gpu>>rad>res/pump


I've already got the RS240 kit, and I'm adamant on it being internal. Plus, I've already done a lot of mod-work to fit the RS240 internally at the front of the case. I'm just waiting for a reply from EK on those fittings, then I'm going to order them along with the RX120.


----------



## wermad

rx is really thick, you might have some clearance issues w/ your mb as mentioned before. if you must have the 2nd rad, go w/ the rs120, the design is the same as the rs240.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


Did anyone know where i can get this kit:

http://www.watercoolingshop.co.uk/XS...Kit_ASLZG.aspx

im looking to replace my H50 with this one.


Not too sure...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


front page list sites that carry the rx and rs kits. Mainly jab-tech and frozencpu in the usa.


I kind of edited the OP with a older version of it.
So I don't remember if those are all the links.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


rx is really thick, you might have some clearance issues w/ your mb as mentioned before. if you must have the 2nd rad, go w/ the rs120, the design is the same as the rs240.


Besides that it is much thicker and can cool a lot more


----------



## wermad

true, but since Adz is going for all internal, it really will be fighting for limited real-estate, unless you can fit it, the RX line up is 58mm thick btw, plus a 25mm fan for single or + 50mm for push/pull.


----------



## GoodInk

@ Adz
Would it be possible to remove the top 200mm fan and place up there? Or maybe a 140, Phobya makes a 200mm rad too.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...Yate_Loon.html


----------



## GoodInk

For fans check this thread out

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-thread.html


----------



## Electric

Which one is the best bang for the buck? 130, 240, or 360?
I plan on OC'ing my 980x to 4.5GHz on my Rampage III Formula.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Electric*


Which one is the best bang for the buck? 130, 240, or 360?
I plan on OC'ing my 980x to 4.5GHz on my Rampage III Formula.


240 for sure.


----------



## Electric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


240 for sure.


240 it is! Thanks for the fast reply


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


@ Adz
Would it be possible to remove the top 200mm fan and place up there? Or maybe a 140, Phobya makes a 200mm rad too.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...Yate_Loon.html


wow! you can get an RX360 for that money, hell thats just a few $10 off from an RX480. not worth it imo.

if you can fit the rx, go for it, if not, get the rs120 or a similar 120 rad.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


wow! you can get an RX360 for that money, hell thats just a few $10 off from an RX480. not worth it imo.

if you can fit the rx, go for it, if not, get the rs120 or a similar 120 rad.


----------



## taylorb095

So while I was screwing a fan on my radiator, my hand slipped with the screwdriver and it went straight into the radiator. After hooking it up, it leaks. ***








But, I went ahead and ordered a RX480 instead








Should be here next week


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *taylorb095*


So while I was screwing a fan on my radiator, my hand slipped with the screwdriver and it went straight into the radiator. After hooking it up, it leaks. ***








But, I went ahead and ordered a RX480 instead








Should be here next week


damn, that sucks, which one got killed?

Nice buy on the RX480


----------



## GoodInk

Just a heads up for anyone that wasn't on the other thread, I updated my pics on the first page from earlier posts.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taylorb095;11663474*
> So while I was screwing a fan on my radiator, my hand slipped with the screwdriver and it went straight into the radiator. After hooking it up, it leaks. ***
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I went ahead and ordered a RX480 instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be here next week


I that does suck, but nice choice on a replacement, just be more careful with this new one.


----------



## kona051

@goodink

Do you have the 240 rasa kit in your scout? if so would you beable to post pictures, i like the case cery much ,just not much room for a 240 rad, (easily)


----------



## GoodInk

Check the first page, I'm the 3rd post. It was pretty easy to make the 240 fit. You just have to cut the front off the case and use the front fan mount to attach it.


----------



## wermad

Well folks, I had a buyer lined up for my pump/res unit and he backed out today







. Anyways, I just placed the order for the 3rd gpu block. Soon we'll see how the x20-750 handles another block for a total of five







.

Im still planning to go w/ the D5 + XSPC bay res for it in a few weeks if possible and I can find a new home for the x20-750.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

The D5 + XSPC bay is what i am ordering now sence i decide to go mosty custom instead of the kit its a little higher but better in long term if i add more stuff to the loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11665348*
> The D5 + XSPC bay is what i am ordering now sence i decide to go mosty custom instead of the kit its a little higher but *better in long term* if i add more stuff to the loop.


That's my biggest concern with this pump. I'm sure I can find a good home for it, its a damn good lil pump ntl


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yep thats why i ended up droping the kit and going custom to have a faster pump when i add another rad and if i get another 5870.


----------



## DullBoi

Pew pew









Update, got a new Chassis + GTS 120 X-flow + EK-FC5850.









I love how the graphics card is completely silent now




























































Would one see a noticable increase if I went with a stornger pump and seperate reservoir?









42 degrees at full load


----------



## [Adz]

42 at full load is awesome, do you really need it to be lower than that?


----------



## AMOCO

Well I just bought my XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit,
Here is the Thread(Coming Back To Water):http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/890632-coming-back-water.html

I will post pictures when I receive the kit and pictures after installed.


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11667871*
> 42 at full load is awesome, do you really need it to be lower than that?


Oh er, i meant 42 for the GPU







65 for CPU


----------



## [Adz]

Oh, 65 still isn't bad. What CPU? (I did check your sig rig, couldn't tell







)
You could probably bring that down a bit more with another fan on the RX240.

I've just realised that my loop is going to be almost identical to yours in the loop order and blocks.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11668529*
> Oh, 65 still isn't bad. What CPU? (I did check your sig rig, couldn't tell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> You could probably bring that down a bit more with another fan on the RX240.
> 
> I've just realised that my loop is going to be almost identical to yours in the loop order and blocks.


His CPUz says i7 930 @ 4Ghz.


----------



## J-Gamer_builder

how do you make/join a "club"


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J-Gamer_builder;11668553*
> how do you make/join a "club"


To make one, you just create a thread that other people can join. And you really don't join, you just say "add me" lol and well. your in.

There really isn't no joining to be had


----------



## J-Gamer_builder

but how do you automaticly get that thing under your message, i post in this tread and i don't get tht thing under my message


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J-Gamer_builder;11668609*
> but how do you automaticly get that thing under your message, i post in this tread and i don't get tht thing under my message


LOL. Check the OP. There is a code you can enter into your signature.







You have to add it yourself.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11668541*
> His CPUz says i7 930 @ 4Ghz.


Lol, my bad. Didn't even look at that screenshot xD
A 930 at 4GHz at 65c is really not bad. Put another fan on the 240 before you consider getting a new pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J-Gamer_builder;11668609*
> but how do you automaticly get that thing under your message, i post in this tread and i don't get tht thing under my message


That's part of your signature, you can put anything you like in there. Click here to edit your signature.
Paste the following code into it to get the sig tag:


PHP:


[IMG alt="Snorkle.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/Snorkle.gif[/IMG][B][URL=http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/882408-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-240-a.html#post11546996]XSPC Rasa 750 Owners Club[/URL][/B][IMG alt="Snorkle.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/Snorkle.gif[/IMG]


----------



## J-Gamer_builder

ooh ok good it if i buyd my PC (and builded it) i gonna upgrade to :"XSPC X2OKIT750 RASA Dual WaterCooling Kit+Aqua-Computer Double Protect Ultra - Orange 1000ml+Artic silver cooling paste


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;11668108*
> Oh er, i meant 42 for the GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 65 for CPU


MMnnn I have close to the same setup as you, i5 [email protected] 4.0 and 5870, but under 3DMark06 my CPU is in the low 60's and GPU maxes at 50.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J-Gamer_builder;11668670*
> ooh ok good it if i buyd my PC (and builded it) i gonna upgrade to :"XSPC X2OKIT750 RASA Dual WaterCooling Kit+Aqua-Computer Double Protect Ultra - Orange 1000ml+Artic silver cooling paste


Just out of curiosity, how old are you and how much experience do you have with building computers?
Also, I wouldn't recommend going with that full kit. Firstly, it's better to use pure clear water and coloured tubing than clear tubing and coloured water. Secondly, 1000ml won't be enough. The reservoir alone holds 1050ml, so when you take into account the tubing and radiator, you'll need at least 1500ml, if not 2000ml to ensure that the entire loop has water running through it at full capacity. and no air.
And finally, you can get better thermal compound than Arctic Silver 5 nowadays.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11668701*
> MMnnn I have close to the same setup as you, i5 [email protected] 4.0 and 5870, but under 3DMark06 my CPU is in the low 60's and GPU maxes at 50.


Maybe the difference is due to ambients and case airflow?


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11668804*
> Just out of curiosity, how old are you and how much experience do you have with building computers?
> Also, I wouldn't recommend going with that full kit. Firstly, it's better to use pure clear water and coloured tubing than clear tubing and coloured water. Secondly, 1000ml won't be enough. The reservoir alone holds 1050ml, so when you take into account the tubing and radiator, you'll need at least 1500ml, if not 2000ml to ensure that the entire loop has water running through it at full capacity. and no air.
> And finally, you can get better thermal compound than Arctic Silver 5 nowadays.
> 
> Maybe the difference is due to ambients and case airflow?


This, the Blue Feser UV fluid I used caused blue gack to form inside the radiator. Dont use premix fluid!!! Distilled water and killcoil. Thats all









FYI, Ther is a big 200mm fan turning right above the RX240 Rad where i left out the second 120mm fan. comes standard with a Haf-X.









Cool then, sounds like my loop aint that bad







27.6 degrees ambient btw


----------



## J-Gamer_builder

Quote:


> Just out of curiosity, how old are you and how much experience do you have with building computers?
> Also, I wouldn't recommend going with that full kit. Firstly, it's better to use pure clear water and coloured tubing than clear tubing and coloured water. Secondly, 1000ml won't be enough. The reservoir alone holds 1050ml, so when you take into account the tubing and radiator, you'll need at least 1500ml, if not 2000ml to ensure that the entire loop has water running through it at full capacity. and no air.
> And finally, you can get better thermal compound than Arctic Silver 5 nowadays.


1) i'm 14
2) this wil be my first build
3) i know that this liquid isn't good and i'm looking for something else
4) what thermal compound do you sugest?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;11668909*
> This, the Blue Feser UV fluid I used caused blue gack to form inside the radiator. Dont use premix fluid!!! Distilled water and killcoil. Thats all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, Ther is a big 200mm fan turning right above the RX240 Rad where i left out the second 120mm fan. comes standard with a Haf-X.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool then, sounds like my loop aint that bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 27.6 degrees ambient btw


So I'm gonna be using distilled water, kill coil, and two drops of Mayhems dye. Surely two drops of this dye won't "gunk" my rad will it. I mean it's only two drops.

*EDIT* *MY WIFE IS GOING TO PICK UP MY STUFF AND IT'S ON THE WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!!!!!!*


----------



## Jonesey I7

double post.... also can someone here tell me the exact screws that come included for the fans so i can go to lowes and pick up a couple extra please?


----------



## [Adz]

Sorry, forgot to reply to these two earlier:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11662845*
> true, but since Adz is going for all internal, it really will be fighting for limited real-estate, unless you can fit it, the RX line up is 58mm thick btw, plus a 25mm fan for single or + 50mm for push/pull.


I put four 25mm fans back to back to check the clearance... I should be alright. Might be a little tight, but I've ordered it now so..







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11662886*
> @ Adz
> Would it be possible to remove the top 200mm fan and place up there? Or maybe a 140, Phobya makes a 200mm rad too.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12103/ex-rad-186/Phobya_Xtreme_200mm_Radiator_Silverstone_Cooler_Master_Yate_Loon.html


I had a look at that before I got this kit. It's a possibility, but I doubt the price/performance ratio on it, and the 200mm fan itself isn't actually any good for a rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J-Gamer_builder;11669024*
> 1) i'm 14
> 2) this wil be my first build
> 3) i know that this liquid isn't good and i'm looking for something else
> 4) what thermal compound do you sugest?


Watercooling on your first build... ballsy. Make sure you do a lot of research and ask for help if you need it.
With liquid, just get pure distilled water - local grocery stores should have, or maybe a car parts store (it's the same sort of water they put in car batteries).
Thermal compound - there are loads. Personally, I use OCZ Freeze, but I think the top compounds out there at the moment are Shin Etsu and MX-4.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11669113*
> So I'm gonna be using distilled water, kill coil, and two drops of Mayhems dye. Surely two drops of this dye won't "gunk" my rad will it. I mean it's only two drops.
> 
> *EDIT* *MY WIFE IS GOING TO PICK UP MY STUFF AND IT'S ON THE WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!!!!!!*


Any dye will mean you have to clean it out faster than you would with just pure water. I don't know how badly Mayhems will gunk up your loop, but I've been told that it's *always* better to use coloured tubing and clear water.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11669185*
> double post.... also can someone here tell me the exact screws that come included for the fans so i can go to lowes and pick up a couple extra please?


I wish I actually knew. I've had so much trouble figuring it. In the end, I just bought a pack of 40mm M3 socket cap screws from Fast-Lad, and they fit through the fans and into the rad. M4's also go through the fans, but not the rad.


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11669113*
> So I'm gonna be using distilled water, kill coil, and two drops of Mayhems dye. Surely two drops of this dye won't "gunk" my rad will it. I mean it's only two drops.
> 
> *EDIT* *MY WIFE IS GOING TO PICK UP MY STUFF AND IT'S ON THE WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!!!!!!*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11669185*
> double post.... also can someone here tell me the exact screws that come included for the fans so i can go to lowes and pick up a couple extra please?


I believe they are M4 thread 10mm long, dont quote me on the length though but its surely M4.

Two drops, nah dude, you'll be safe


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J-Gamer_builder;11669024*
> 1) i'm 14
> 2) this wil be my first build
> 3) i know that this liquid isn't good and i'm looking for something else
> 4) what thermal compound do you sugest?


1. Age is never a issue








2. Not bad








3. Just use distilled water with PT Nuke and/or a Kill Coil.
4. I use AS5. But I hear good things about Shin Etsu X23 and MX-4.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11669113*
> So I'm gonna be using distilled water, kill coil, and two drops of Mayhems dye. Surely two drops of this dye won't "gunk" my rad will it. I mean it's only two drops.
> 
> *EDIT* *MY WIFE IS GOING TO PICK UP MY STUFF AND IT'S ON THE WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!!!!!!*


Glad to hear it's coming








But I remember hearing you should put 4 drops. Not sure. It's actually quite neutral of a pH but when you add too much, it becomes slightly acidic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11669185*
> double post.... also can someone here tell me the exact screws that come included for the fans so i can go to lowes and pick up a couple extra please?


I'm not sure how long they are. But I know they are roughly an inch long.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11669478*
> I'm not sure how long they are. But I know they are roughly an inch long.


They have to be at least 30mm (1.2 inch) because the fans are 25mm and the screws have to go through that and the rad. I use 40mm and they go through the fan and a good distance into the rad too.


----------



## Lutro0

Thats what I have for now, sqeezed this in on my lunch break. Whatcha think?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;11670374*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what I have for now, sqeezed this in on my lunch break. Whatcha think?


It looks perfect








But I'll let the others decide as well.


----------



## [Adz]

Look alright. I think that using the official XSPC logo might look a bit better and perhaps the grey/blue colour scheme rather than black and white, but it's a good design.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*










Thats what I have for now, sqeezed this in on my lunch break. Whatcha think?


Looks good to me


----------



## J-Gamer_builder

looks awesome


----------



## kingofyo1

me likey! simple, yet effective







good job sir


----------



## wermad

XSPC uses #6-32 thread size in the US, outside they use M4, someone correct me if Im wrong on the non-us.

any one in the US. check out macmaster-carr, they have some sweet screws/bolts available if you wanna got different than what xspc gives you.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


XSPC uses #6-32 thread size in the US, outside they use M4, someone correct me if Im wrong on the non-us.

any one in the US. check out macmaster-carr, they have some sweet screws/bolts available if you wanna got different than what xspc gives you.


The rad is definitely not M4, and neither is the faceplate for the reservoir. M3 will fit the rad, though I think that 6-32 is the actual threading. For the faceplate, M3 is too small, M4 is too big.


----------



## wermad

wow, didn't know that they went w/ 6-32 outside of the us. +1


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


wow, didn't know that they went w/ 6-32 outside of the us. +1


I know the new v2 rx360 rads take differt screws then the old v1 im not sure about the other rads tho.


----------



## mbudden

What's the tube size that comes with the kit? 
Looking at getting some Primochill tubing.


----------



## [Adz]

7/8 id, 5/8 od
Edit: I went for this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82..._-_UV_Red.html


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


What's the tube size that comes with the kit? 
Looking at getting some Primochill tubing.


If you do get it from jab-tech and use the coupon facebook their is cheaper then frozencpu and perf pc it seems.


----------



## iSpark

I thought it was 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD tubing.
I hope so, I just ordered some. :\\


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


If you do get it from jab-tech and use the coupon facebook their is cheaper then frozencpu and perf pc it seems.


So the coupon is "facebook"? I'm thinking about ~3m of tubing would be enough. Maybe even ~2m.


----------



## wermad

amazon sells some for ~$16 for 10'


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


amazon sells some for ~$16 for 10'


Is it cheap stuff tho or a good brand.


----------



## mbudden

I'll check it out. 
Trying to decide if I want either UV Blue or Green...
Green looks way too bright. And I've heard Blue isn't that UV reactive.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iSpark*


I thought it was 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD tubing.
I hope so, I just ordered some. :\\


it is 7/16 by 5/8 but it really does not matter you would just have to buy differt barbs to fit it if you got differt sizes tho.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I'll check it out. 
Trying to decide if I want either UV Blue or Green...
Green looks way too bright. And I've heard Blue isn't that UV reactive.



Im going with white primo myself to class against the black in the case i orderd.


----------



## mbudden

But the website says this for the kit.

Quote:



2 Meters of Clear 7/16" Hose


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Yea it says Tubing Size: 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD that fits tight over 1/2 barbs is why its used.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Yea it says Tubing Size: 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD that fits tight over 1/2 barbs is why its used.


Interesting. So the barbs are 1/2" barbs? Then why does it state 1/4" somewhere?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

g1/4 thread 1/2 id

Quote:



G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Interesting. So the barbs are 1/2" barbs? Then why does it state 1/4" somewhere?



The "G-1/4" refers to the threading.


----------



## mbudden

Interesting. Thanks for that


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol i thk i learned to much about water and i dont even own it yet.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


lol i thk i learned to much about water and i dont even own it yet.


Haha. I know enough to get me by. But there is still some little things here and there that I still quite don't really know. hah.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol when i first started reading about stuff i was like oh crap buying a kit for sure to much to try to get right but its not really all that hard after a little research.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


lol when i first started reading about stuff i was like oh crap buying a kit for sure to much to try to get right but its not really all that hard after a little research.


True true. The reason why I bought a kit over a dedicated WC'ing loop is due to the fact that, I'm not really using top of the line hardware with like 1-2 GPU's. Just a simple CPU with a simple GPU. lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea i was set on the kit but then after people said the pump might not be very good when i start adding more stuff i figured id go custom to get the d5 pump. And get the extra rad later if i pickup another 5870 and block and the head presure was only 1.5m and my loop probly would be longer then that with 2 rads on top and bottom.


----------



## mbudden

Isn't the pump like 750lph? I would assume that's a pretty decent amount. I'd imagine if your adding crap tons of stuff, sure the pump would be your limiting factor sometime or another.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea 750lph but only 1.5m head preasure the d5 is like 1350 lph and 3m head presure.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


yea 750lph but only 1.5m head preasure the d5 is like 1350 lph and 3m head presure.


Interesting...
Head pressure?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


g1/4 thread 1/2 id


Oh, they're 1/2" barbs? I didn't realise that xD
No wonder they were so difficult to remove!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Interesting...
Head pressure?


Head pressure is, as far as I can tell, simply the amount of pressure the pump can push out. The greater the head pressure, the more blocks you can have and the longer your loop can be before it comes too much for the pump.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

From how i understand it its how long your loop can be sorta and how much can be in your loop adding resistance.

Quote:



Head pressure" on the other hand is more complicated. "Head" may be simply defined as any resistance to the flow of a pump. When pump manufacturers list the head pressure, they are referring to the vertical discharge pressure head. Described in very simple terms, a pump's vertical discharge "pressure-head" is the vertical lift in height (usually measured in feet of water) at which a pump can no longer exert enough pressure to move water. At this point, the pump may be said to have reached its "shut-off" head pressure. When you look at a flow curve chart for a pump, the "shut-off head" is the point on the graph where the curved line becomes horizontal as the flow rate at that point is zero. The higher a pump's head pressure, the more powerful the pump.


----------



## Jonesey I7

can someone tell me how far to tighten down the knuckled things on top of my cpu block??


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you talking about the barbs ? or the block mounting the board ?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Im talking about the top knuckle nuts used to mount the cpu block to the board. The last one's you put on.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ah cant help you on that as i dont have my stuff yet i would think it tells you somewhere most stuff it it dont say its hand tight.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11675094*
> Im talking about the top knuckle nuts used to mount the cpu block to the board. The last one's you put on.


idk with the AMD's but the Intel ones you tighten all the way.


----------



## Jonesey I7

anyone with the amd setup?


----------



## wermad

since the stock oem hsf hooks up really tight, I would recommend tighten it up gingerly, keep turning the thumbscrews until its becoming harder to turn gently, then make sure the block is tight, turn a bit more if needed. That's the strategy I use, I don't want to damage my mb.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Yea, so my temps really aren't that great :*( It's 73* in my house, 24*c and my idle temps are 32*c. Does it take time to level out temps or something, or is this the best I'm gonna get>?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Thats hot considering other amd setups iv seen you should be in the 60s did you apply enugh tim and get it on their good.


----------



## Jonesey I7

highest I see in linx with max memory is 45*c, which is acceptable. But wonder why my idle temps are a couple degrees higher than they should be? Maybe cause I have this 6870 in the loop too?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

load should be all your worried about remmber idles dont mean jack even on water cause no telling if the cpu is reporting idle right some times. Lol 45c seems killer good for your overclock and your probly pushing a tone of vcore.


----------



## [Adz]

Just out of interest, what temperatures are you hitting on your gpu?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11675566*
> highest I see in linx with max memory is 45*c, which is acceptable. But wonder why my idle temps are a couple degrees higher than they should be? Maybe cause I have this 6870 in the loop too?


Yep the GPU will do that, that is still really good max temps. Are you overclocking at all?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11675748*
> Yep the GPU will do that, that is still really good max temps. Are you overclocking at all?


4.3ghz, 1.475v in bios....llc raises to 1.51v under load. Max load temp actually just hit 47*c 20 passes of linx.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

What temps did you get on air befor ?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11675870*
> What temps did you get on air befor ?


at only 4.1ghz and 1.41v i was hitting 59*c in linx 10 passes. Now 4.35ghz 1.5vcore..... 49*c max temp 20 passes. Oh, 45*c max temp on 6870 20 min occt.







lovin the wata~~~~!!!!


----------



## wermad

amd cpu threshold is 62°c
*
* for the degree symbol "°", hold "alt" and enter these numbers: 0176*


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11676151*
> amd cpu threshold is 62°c
> *
> * for the degree symbol "°", hold "alt" and enter these numbers: 0176*


°







+ 1°Rep
*EDIT*
Dang now I'm wanting to go back and edit my posts with temps, lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11676210*
> °
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> + 1°Rep


Its a must for us water guys who discuss temps quite often (and the other cooling guys too







).


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11676237*
> Its a must for us water guys who discuss temps quite often (and the other cooling guys too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


I just programed it to one of my macro keys


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11676237*
> Its a must for us water guys who discuss temps quite often (and the other cooling guys too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


I generally just put c after the number, everyone knows what it means. But thanks nonetheless, I like knowing alt-codes. The ones I remember are Alt, 3, 13, 14, 0153 and 0169.


----------



## Jonesey I7

c°°L ....


----------



## Lutro0

Alt Code List ☺


----------



## Blostorm

Ordered mine. It's comming tommorow morning. Wish me luck..If I never come back with pictures, it's because it leaked and my house caugh on fire.


----------



## Jonesey I7

My back is so screwed up tonight from bending over all day working on my loop. Will put up some pictures FINALLY tomorrow op.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blostorm;11677060*
> Ordered mine. It's comming tommorow morning. Wish me luck..If I never come back with pictures, it's because it leaked and my house caugh on fire.


Surely leaking water would extinguish a fire?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11677096*
> My back is so screwed up tonight from bending over all day working on my loop. Will put up some pictures FINALLY tomorrow op.


I think it's safe to say we can all relate to your pain. Once, I took apart an old rig for a hard drive, spent hours on my knees over my rig fitting the drive in and sorting out my cable management (it was really bad). When I finally got up, my knees ached, my back hurt like hell and I had cuts all over my hands. Powered the rig up to check that hard drive... 10GB.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11677096*
> My back is so screwed up tonight from bending over all day working on my loop. Will put up some pictures FINALLY tomorrow op.


No pain, no gain! do it for the love of water


----------



## mtbiker033

I think the 240 kit rad would fit in the top of my case, can anyone confirm and also would the 240 kit be enough for a cpu only kit with the i7-950?


----------



## wermad

the 240 is good for your cpu, its actually able to handle another block too. your case specs says your top has two 140mm fans, does it offer holes for 120mm fans? even if it does, the spacing will be all screwed up unfortunately. try mounting it on the rear or customize your case to make it fit. good luck








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033;11677528*
> I think the 240 kit rad would fit in the top of my case, can anyone confirm and also would the 240 kit be enough for a cpu only kit with the i7-950?


----------



## mbudden

sounds like a lot of people getting the kit.
post any questions you may have. don't mind helping one bit.


----------



## kona051

what fans are you guys using?


----------



## [Adz]

I'm using CM R4's on my RS240... haven't decided what to use on my RX120


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kona051;11678690*
> what fans are you guys using?


Using the fans that come with it. They pull a good amount of air and are really silent. Might look at getting different ones later on.


----------



## urdeath007

I'm looking at getting the http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_Hot_Item.html#blank to go with this case. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133056

I've been looking into WCS for awhile now and after some research as well as looking at how to videos I've convinced myself that it's time to make the leap of faith persay. I'm going to look into compatibility but figured I'd post my info here to get feedback from current users, the experts!







Thanks in advance.


----------



## [Adz]

You need to fix your Frozen CPU link.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11679157*
> You need to fix your Frozen CPU link.


My apologies, I fixed it. I'm unsure where it'd be mounted case-wise. Like if it'd be outside/inside or bottom/top.


----------



## mbudden

Interesting.
It looks to me like you would need to put it on the outside.
Unless you can fit the 360 rad in there. Which I doubt it by the looks of the case.


----------



## urdeath007

Yeah I was having a hunch feeling that would be the case.







I'm looking at other OC.net threads related to this in hopes I can find info towards how some have mounted their rads/modified their case for their rads.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11679083*
> I'm looking at getting the http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_Hot_Item.html#blank to go with this case. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133056
> 
> I've been looking into WCS for awhile now and after some research as well as looking at how to videos I've convinced myself that it's time to make the leap of faith persay. I'm going to look into compatibility but figured I'd post my info here to get feedback from current users, the experts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


With very little modding it could be done easy. Just take the 2 the HDD bays out and put it on the floor. You may have to pull the main cage too, but there are lots of 5.25" bays so you could mount HDD's there.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11679605*
> With very little modding it could be done easy. Just take the 2 the HDD bays out and put it on the floor. You may have to pull the main cage too, but there are lots of 5.25" bays so you could mount HDD's there.


I was noticing that as I was just in the case measuring. Is it ok if I post about my system questions in this thread or should I be making a seperate thread for my questions? (rather new to the forums here & just wantin' to make sure so as not to do any wrong here.









I had already taken out the two HDD bays at the bottom of this case. My question about bottom mounting it is then I'd have the fans pushing air....out of the case downard?

I currently have a semi interesting setup where the fans blow air outwards but it's on an air vent that's blowing out cool air for this room & the case sits on it. The EVGA 480 OC n the system being air cooled keeps the room quite comfy.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11679083*
> I'm looking at getting the http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_Hot_Item.html#blank to go with this case. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133056
> 
> I've been looking into WCS for awhile now and after some research as well as looking at how to videos I've convinced myself that it's time to make the leap of faith persay. I'm going to look into compatibility but figured I'd post my info here to get feedback from current users, the experts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


i ordered mine yesterday morn and its already on its way here.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11679666*
> I was noticing that as I was just in the case measuring. Is it ok if I post about my system questions in this thread or should I be making a seperate thread for my questions? (rather new to the forums here & just wantin' to make sure so as not to do any wrong here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had already taken out the two HDD bays at the bottom of this case. My question about bottom mounting it is then I'd have the fans pushing air....out of the case downard?
> 
> I currently have a semi interesting setup where the fans blow air outwards but it's on an air vent that's blowing out cool air for this room & the case sits on it. The EVGA 480 OC n the system being air cooled keeps the room quite comfy.


Well are you going to cooling the GPU with it too? If not I would have it blowing out of the case, if you are I would try it both ways.


----------



## urdeath007

Well from the looks of your nice systems you've got more experience with this than myself. I'm hoping to find out by posting here. Haven't done WC before so dunno what all should be taken into mind/looked into before purchasing WC parts. I'm curious if the kit I linked would be able to handle the cpu + 480 GPU n possibly mobo loop? :S


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;11679686*
> i ordered mine yesterday morn and its already on its way here.


Post some pics, and are you going with red tubing?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11679751*
> Well from the looks of your nice systems you've got more experience with this than myself. I'm hoping to find out by posting here. Haven't done WC before so dunno what all should be taken into mind/looked into before purchasing WC parts. I'm curious if the kit I linked would be able to handle the cpu + 480 GPU n possibly mobo loop? :S


Fill out your system in your User CP, and let us know if you plan on overclocking and if so how much.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11679752*
> Post some pics, and are you going with red tubing?


no,going with red dye,when i had water cooling on my old rig.i used feser uv dye blue


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11679738*
> Well are you going to cooling the GPU with it too? If not I would have it blowing out of the case, if you are I would try it both ways.


Yeah I hope to be able to make it a full system loop including the 480 SC gpu.

I have a two n half week break coming this Friday between quarters so I'm hoping to get it all figured out as well as up & running before I'm back so that it's not problematic having the computer down for an extended period of time.


----------



## Blostorm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


no,going with red dye,when i had water cooling on my old rig.i used feser uv dye blue


I hope you know it clogs your block and void must warranties now ? Most companies will void your warranty if they see dye was used.

Just letting you know. Distilled water + silver/kill coil (or PT nuke but EK now does void warranty if you use PT nuke so if you ever add a gpu clock, you can't use pt nuke anymore)


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blostorm*


I hope you know it clogs your block and void must warranties now ? Most companies will void your warranty if they see dye was used.

Just letting you know. Distilled water + silver/kill coil (or PT nuke but EK now does void warranty if you use PT nuke so if you ever add a gpu clock, you can't use pt nuke anymore)


That's incredibly mind blowing to me. So let me get this straight...If I were to add Feser Blue UV to it, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/69...e_F1-0001.html it would void the warranty on the gpu!? Well that's incredibly disappointing if that is the case. That's an example of something I learned to tackle before diving into the WCS. Looks like I'll be digging up EVGAs stance on dyes as I was kinda hoping for blue uv in my loops but







if it voids warranty.


----------



## [Adz]

Not on the GPU, but on the GPU waterblock (especially if it's an EK waterblock). Unless your GPU manufacturer allows it, you probably voided your GPU warranty when you removed the stock cooler








EVGA shouldn't have a problem. Check your waterblock manufacturer's policy on dyes as that is far more significant here.

Get blue UV tubing instead.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *urdeath007*


Yeah I hope to be able to make it a full system loop including the 480 SC gpu.

I have a two n half week break coming this Friday between quarters so I'm hoping to get it all figured out as well as up & running before I'm back so that it's not problematic having the computer down for an extended period of time.


Fill out your system in your User CP, and let us know if you plan on overclocking and if so how much.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I see all over this forum "how much fun" it was to build the loops for their systems, yada yada yada......... AM I THE ONLY ONE WHO WAS SCARED ****LESS WHILE I WAS PUTTING THIS THING TOGETHER?!?!?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I got it all orderd cant wait to get it in and tackle putting it together.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I see all over this forum "how much fun" it was to build the loops for their systems, yada yada yada......... AM I THE ONLY ONE WHO WAS SCARED ****LESS WHILE I WAS PUTTING THIS THING TOGETHER?!?!?


Lol i probly will be but i dont have my stuff in so i dont gotta worry yet.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I got it all orderd cant wait to get it in and tackle putting it together.

Lol i probly will be but i dont have my stuff in so i dont gotta worry yet.


I think the scariest part was ripping my video card apart and putting the block on there. It was very fragile, and I'm like a bull in a china shop ya know....


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I think the scariest part was ripping my video card apart and putting the block on there. It was very fragile, and I'm like a bull in a china shop ya know....










Ah iv had video cards apart 100 times thats no worry to me just getting the block on perfect is my worry reading about it having standoffs you gota install.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Reseated my block with a bit less t.i.m..... knocked off a couple degrees. Ambients are 72f. 1.52v in bios + llc. This was under load. 48c max!!! LOVING WATER MORE AND MORE


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I see all over this forum "how much fun" it was to build the loops for their systems, yada yada yada......... AM I THE ONLY ONE WHO WAS SCARED ****LESS WHILE I WAS PUTTING THIS THING TOGETHER?!?!?


Only once I was about to turn the power on, lol


----------



## mbudden

Only once when I plugged in the LED while my PSU was running testing the pump.

& I knew your temps were too high.







Glad they lowered


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Only once when I plugged in the LED while my PSU was running testing the pump.

& I knew your temps were too high.







Glad they lowered


oh, only the load temps dropped, still idle at 33c no matter what. Its gotta be the video card in the loop.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


oh, only the load temps dropped, still idle at 33c no matter what. Its gotta be the video card in the loop.


Or you're close to ambient temperature?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Or you're close to ambient temperature?


ambients are 72f, so only 23c. can't be that.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

some cpus read idles wrong so you dont get the true idle from the cpu i know intels do they even state under 50c the temps might not be accurate.


----------



## Blostorm

So I just received mine. I have AMD so I changed the top for the AM3 top. Now, am I suposed to use any backplate to use with that AM3 kit ?

Edit: NVM, got it. No need of backplate.


----------



## fr0st.

I'm gonna buy the RX360 kit on Tuesday (Monday for you guys) from America and then wait on shipping to get it to my place, should take a while. It's like 8-10 days with the shipping I'm going for and it'll be in the middle of christmas. Ahwell, worth the wait







.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blostorm;11683805*
> So I just received mine. I have AMD so I changed the top for the AM3 top. Now, am I suposed to use any backplate to use with that AM3 kit ?
> 
> Edit: NVM, got it. No need of backplate.


No need for backplate. But you could always modify the stock backplate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11683809*
> I'm gonna buy the RX360 kit on Tuesday (Monday for you guys) from America and then wait on shipping to get it to my place, should take a while. It's like 8-10 days with the shipping I'm going for and it'll be in the middle of christmas. Ahwell, worth the wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .










Sounds good!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Cool frost and i can jab-tech ships fast atleast for me i orderd my parts at 11am they shipped it out at 1pm.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11680383*
> Not on the GPU, but on the GPU waterblock (especially if it's an EK waterblock). Unless your GPU manufacturer allows it, you probably voided your GPU warranty when you removed the stock cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA shouldn't have a problem. Check your waterblock manufacturer's policy on dyes as that is far more significant here.
> 
> Get blue UV tubing instead.


I updated my CP to include Rig information.

I can also admit that I'm also afraid jumping into the WCS just in regards to what process I'll be going through to add the GPU to the loop. Don't wanna bugger it up.

Well that's relieving, I was thinking EVGA was fine with it as on their forums I was reading that mostly you just need to keep what you take off if you're ever going to warranty it. So that's easy enough as I already have boxes of spare parts/cables/fans/etc. Dunno what gpu block I'm gonna get ... yet. :S


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11683944*
> Cool frost and i can jab-tech ships fast atleast for me i orderd my parts at 11am they shipped it out at 1pm.


Should take a bit longer when they have to ship it half way across the world


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea probly lol it might ship out fast just take longer to get to you lol.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11684158*
> I updated my CP to include Rig information.
> Well that's relieving, I was thinking EVGA was fine with it as on their forums I was reading that mostly you just need to keep what you take off if you're ever going to warranty it. So that's easy enough as I already have boxes of spare parts/cables/fans/etc. Dunno what gpu block I'm gonna get ... yet. :S


Well the RS360 should be able to handle that system, but temps might not be as cool as you like, but you will love how quiet the system is. If they are higher than your liking, you could add a RX120 to the loop or go for the RX360 kit to be safe. Measure first, the RX's are really thick.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11684316*
> Well the RS360 should be able to handle that system, but temps might not be as cool as you like, but you will love how quiet the system is. If they are higher than your liking, you could add a RX120 to the loop or go for the RX360 kit to be safe. Measure first, the RX's are really thick.


I'm planning on going with the RX360. I'm planning on returning from class to power down the system & see all possible space I'm able to squeeze out of it. As a previous poster recommended, could easily mount it on the bottom of the case but is there any downside to putting a res at the bottom of a case vs at the top of the case? :S

So I suppose that makes only two concerns that have me shaky going into this. The gpu & figuring where & how to fit the res in.

Whats the recommended GPU block/customer favorite here/suggestion for EVGA 480 SC?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11684158*
> I updated my CP to include Rig information.
> 
> I can also admit that I'm also afraid jumping into the WCS just in regards to what process I'll be going through to add the GPU to the loop. Don't wanna bugger it up.
> 
> Well that's relieving, I was thinking EVGA was fine with it as on their forums I was reading that mostly you just need to keep what you take off if you're ever going to warranty it. So that's easy enough as I already have boxes of spare parts/cables/fans/etc. Dunno what gpu block I'm gonna get ... yet. :S


i7 AND gtx 480? Don't know how well it will hold up, I'd get the rx360 with 6 fans push pull. THEN you'd be fine. Those are the two hottest parts around...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11684330*
> I'm planning on going with the RX360. I'm planning on returning from class to power down the system & see all possible space I'm able to squeeze out of it. As a previous poster recommended, could easily mount it on the bottom of the case but is there any downside to putting a res at the bottom of a case vs at the top of the case? :S
> 
> So I suppose that makes only two concerns that have me shaky going into this. The gpu & figuring where & how to fit the res in.
> 
> Whats the recommended GPU block/customer favorite here/suggestion for EVGA 480 SC?


Yep that was me that said put the rad on the bottom. I'm guessing you were meaning rad not res in your post. The only real problem is making sure it will have room to breath from under the case. You might have to look into feet or casters.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11684452*
> i7 AND gtx 480? Don't know how well it will hold up, I'd get the rx360 with 6 fans push pull. THEN you'd be fine. Those are the two hottest parts around...


A RX360 can easly handle that. The 480 has a TPD of a little over 300watts, so with a average 1,500 RPM fan that means he could be pulling about 200 more with the CPU and still stay with in a 10°C delta. Is he going to see 50°C on the CPU or GPU running Prime plus Furmark, no. Will his temps be just fine, yes.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11684452*
> i7 AND gtx 480? Don't know how well it will hold up, I'd get the rx360 with 6 fans push pull. THEN you'd be fine. Those are the two hottest parts around...


They do run on the hot side but it's also one of the many reasons bringing me to WC. I have the case pretty maxed as is with fans. Not much of a problem until 2am in the morning. I'll look into the push pull setup scenario then.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11684650*
> Yep that was me that said put the rad on the bottom. I'm guessing you were meaning rad not res in your post. The only real problem is making sure it will have room to breath from under the case. You might have to look into feet or casters.


Yeah I'm going to put the res/pump in the 5.25 bay area from what I've seen of others' setups. Where I work part-time has a metal fab shop so will see about that for lifting the case up a bit. I currently have a filter in a house cooling vent that I put my case above as it's always blowing chilling air that freezes my feet. ANYWAYS Yeah I can easily get the case raised up some. Figure it needs only 1-2 inches or more ya think?


----------



## wermad

an rx240 can handle an i7 + a gtx 480. of your planning sli in the future, get the rx 360 then.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11685585*
> an rx240 can handle an i7 + a gtx 480. of your planning sli in the future, get the rx 360 then.


I most definitely will be adding another card in the future. SLI ftw.
http://img411.imageshack.us/i/basiclayout.png/

That's the layout I have in mind currently. It's not my case there persay. It's an image of the same case just a product image so as less cluttered than my case currently. http://img411.imageshack.us/i/basiclayout.png/

Unlike in the picture, the bottom drive bays are still there....they'll be removed in the process.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11685585*
> an rx240 can handle an i7 + a gtx 480. of your planning sli in the future, get the rx 360 then.


I agree but it will not be quiet during gaming do to the fact you will have to run some high CFM fans. I wouldn't push it past 350-375 watts with just average CFM fans. The RX120 is good for about 200watts with a 1,500 rpm fan, and the RX360 is good for about 500watts with 1,500 rpm fans.


----------



## Balsagna

Almost Xmas and I can finally install my kit....

Although, I might need to buy some tools. I don't currently have my wrenches with me :\


----------



## wermad

you just a need some simple tools, mainly a #2 phillips head screwdriver and small needle nose pliers.


----------



## kingofyo1

so guess what guys? I was actually able to fit my RS360 rad INSIDE the case! I'll have pics up tomorrow.. spent a few hours tonight setting it up again, and doing all that mess. Looks good inside, but I dont know if it'll be worth the extra temps to keep it inside the case :/


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Balsagna*


Almost Xmas and I can finally install my kit....

Although, I might need to buy some tools. I don't currently have my wrenches with me :\\



Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


you just a need some simple tools, mainly a #2 phillips head screwdriver and small needle nose pliers.


I just screwed the barbs in hand tight. No leaks here...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


so guess what guys? I was actually able to fit my RS360 rad INSIDE the case! I'll have pics up tomorrow.. spent a few hours tonight setting it up again, and doing all that mess. Looks good inside, but I dont know if it'll be worth the extra temps to keep it inside the case :/


Might get a new case so I can actually have it inside the case. Would look a lot nicer.


----------



## urdeath007

Am I blind or is there really no Feser UV Blue tubing to be found to go with the rasa 360 kit? Specs say 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD size tubing but I don't find any Feser that matches. Whats recommended then to go w/ for UV Blue tubing vs having the uv blue dye?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11690598*
> Am I blind or is there really no Feser UV Blue tubing to be found to go with the rasa 360 kit? Specs say 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD size tubing but I don't find any Feser that matches. Whats recommended then to go w/ for UV Blue tubing vs having the uv blue dye?


Here is Primochill UV Blue.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c99/s809/list/p1/b46/PrimoChill-Tubing-716_ID_Tubing-Page1.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html

Tubing > Dye.
People report having the dye gunk up their system.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Here is Primochill UV Blue.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c9...ing-Page1.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html

Tubing > Dye.
People report having the dye gunk up their system.


^This.


----------



## mbudden

I'm going to be picking up some tubing myself. I think about 7-8 feet would be enough. I know that with the kit I got, we got about 3 meters of clear tubing which is about 9 feet. I had a foot left when it was all said and done. Still got to trim some more though.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I used dye.....period. I used mayhem's dye, about 6 drops total. What are the symptoms of a "gunked" system? How would I know if something was wrong?


----------



## [Adz]

Gunked systems are basically when you have residue all over your loop. If the residue is in your tubing, it's bad for flow. If it's in your waterblocks, it's extremely bad for flow and can mean you're not getting temps as good as you could. In your reservoir... not such a big deal, but given that the pump is also in the res, I'm not too sure if it's bad for the pump, but it certainly can't do any good for it.

As for how to tell - most people don't notice until they take their loops apart because that's when there's no water left in the system, so you can see where the coloured residue is.


----------



## LingLing1337

Which kit do I need for a CPU-only loop with a slim possibility of adding a graphics card block? For my sig rig. RS240 perhaps? Also, what fans should I use to keep it silent as possible? Gentle Typhoons?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LingLing1337*


Which kit do I need for a CPU-only loop with a slim possibility of adding a graphics card block? For my sig rig. RS240 perhaps? Also, what fans should I use to keep it silent as possible? Gentle Typhoons?


Yep, you got it. RS240 should serve you well. If you do go ahead an add a gpu waterblock, the RS240 should be able to handle it, but personally, I chose to play it safe and get an extra RX120 to add to the RS240.
Scythe GentleTyphoons are probably the best rad fans out at the moment too. Alternatives are the S-Flex and, if you don't mind the noise, some Delta fans.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I used dye.....period. I used mayhem's dye, about 6 drops total. What are the symptoms of a "gunked" system? How would I know if something was wrong?



BAD BAD BAD BAD

dyes will gunk the blocks gpu and cpu up and stain the lines the thing is as the pump moves water the dyes start to separte and end up in your blocks which raise your temps over time. When it happens you gota take the blocks completeing apart and clean them with a tooth brush and ketchup or other stuff.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


BAD BAD BAD BAD

dyes will gunk the blocks gpu and cpu up and stain the lines the thing is as the pump moves water the dyes start to separte and end up in your blocks which raise your temps over time. When it happens you gota take the blocks completeing apart and clean them with a tooth brush and ketchup or other stuff.


Does it take time to do so? I look in my lines and res and don't see any whatsoever "gunk" or even traces of gunk. This dye came highly recommended as to NOT gunk up the system.


----------



## mm67

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Does it take time to do so? I look in my lines and res and don't see any whatsoever "gunk" or even traces of gunk. This dye came highly recommended as to NOT gunk up the system.


It will take months for that gunk to buildup if it even does buildup, everybody doesn't seem to get it.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mm67*


It will take months for that gunk to buildup if it even does buildup, everybody doesn't seem to get it.


So it doesn't ALWAYS gunk up then? A quote from a review on Mayhem dye...

"Blue, red, purple, UV-yellow and yellow dyes were tested for 14 months and showed no deposits on the tubing and waterblocks, UV-pink dye left some deposits after 8 months, transparent (UV clear) showed no deposits during 18 months of testing. The dyes are compliant with EU and USA safety standards, all colors are safe for humans and animals, except for UV-pink, which is unsafe for animals. All dyes are environmentally friendly."

I use blue


----------



## Bal3Wolf

months or not it usualy happens and has been documented by lots of users and a pain to clean up later on. But jonesy you could be ok just watch your temps if you see them starting to get worse and your amb haset went up its probly gunk in your blocks. And jonesy i thk its funny your name says I7 but you have a amd.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11692455*
> months or not it usualy happens and has been documented by lots of users and a pain to clean up later on. But jonesy you could be ok just watch your temps if you see them starting to get worse and your amb haset went up its probly gunk in your blocks. And jonesy i thk its funny your name says I7 but you have a amd.


I started with the baddest i7 on ocn back last year when I joined, then I sold it to jktown and downgraded a little on the processor, upgraded highly on the video card as all I do is game.

Link to the sale thread with benches...
http://www.overclock.net/full-systems/751617-baddest-i7-920-ocn-1300-sold.html


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Yea that is a nice i7 lol i wish mine did that but 4200 on 1.31 aint bad.


----------



## urdeath007

So the good EVGA member I'm purchasing my gtx-480 ek acetel-nickel block from recommends replacing the "1.0mm and 1.5mm pads"

Not 100% sure on where these 1mm & 1.5mm pads are as on frozen cpu I find http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7863/thr-49/EK_Replacement_Liquid_Block_Thermal_Pad_60mm_x_50mm_x_05mm_.html thought it's not even the minimum pad size? Thoughts on that?


----------



## [Adz]

If you're going to be putting it together again, you'll to get new pads. Section 4 here tells you how thick each section needs to be. The 0.5mm won't be enough.
If you can't find it elsewhere, you could always buy directly from EK: http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/accessories/thermal-compounds/thermal-pads.html


----------



## urdeath007

Ordered my Rasa 360 kit. Busy for the day so cya all l8rs.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Updated pics...... FINALLY

Please excuse the crappy phone pics.


----------



## [Adz]

Nice fans









Temps?


----------



## DullBoi

Hi, to everyone wanting to use dye and UV/Colour fliuds.

This is what happened to my clear tubing after two weeks of Feser UV Blue.



In my update, Link 2, you can see Promachill UV Blue tubing, very sturdy and has a nice bending curve . No gunk neither, I had blue gunk form in my RX240 rad after just two weeks of use, imagine 2 months









No thanks.

Mbudden, go for a Haf-X if you dont mind a big case







You could always fit a 360mm rad in there and I am sure there is space for another 240mm









Its got lots of space


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11693144*
> Nice fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps?


Those top two muti colored ones were the ones on my mega, figured id put them to good use as they are exact cfm's as fans with kit. Temps at 4.3ghz at 1.52v bios +llc (1.56v under load)..... max temp 48c, 44c with window open. Max temp on 6870 1 hour occt..... 48c, max in game 2 hours bfbc2 43c.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;11693161*
> Hi, to everyone wanting to use dye and UV/Colour fliuds.
> 
> This is what happened to my clear tubing after two weeks of Feser UV Blue.
> 
> 
> 
> In my update, Link 2, you can see Promachill UV Blue tubing, very sturdy and has a nice bending curve . No gunk neither, I had blue gunk form in my RX240 rad after just two weeks of use, imagine 2 months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No thanks.
> 
> Mbudden, go for a Haf-X if you dont mind a big case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could always fit a 360mm rad in there and I am sure there is space for another 240mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its got lots of space


Guess i'll just have to watch my tubes. From what I'm reading, the UV dyes are the ones leaving A LOT of gunk in very short times, and feser dyes as a whole are pretty bad about it. All the reviews for feser say gunk is bound to happen sooner than later. HOWEVER, all the reviews for the NON uv mayhems say no gunk whatsoever, even after 18 months. Nonetheless I will be keeping a close eye on temps and tubes for any sign of junk gunk.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Updated pics...... FINALLY

Please excuse the crappy phone pics.








Nice thats gota be hard to sleep if you leave it on 24/7.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Nice thats gota be hard to sleep if you leave it on 24/7.


You know, I've always left my computer on 24/7........ until now. I feel like I want my pump to last as long as I keep the system, so I've started turning it off at night since I got the kit installed.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Those top two muti colored ones were the ones on my mega, figured id put them to good use as they are exact cfm's as fans with kit. Temps at 4.3ghz at 1.52v bios +llc (1.56v under load)..... max temp 48c, 44c with window open. Max temp on 6870 1 hour occt..... 48c, max in game 2 hours bfbc2 43c.










Awesome temps!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Guess i'll just have to watch my tubes. From what I'm reading, the UV dyes are the ones leaving A LOT of gunk in very short times, and feser dyes as a whole are pretty bad about it. All the reviews for feser say gunk is bound to happen sooner than later. HOWEVER, all the reviews for the NON uv mayhems say no gunk whatsoever, even after 18 months. Nonetheless I will be keeping a close eye on temps and tubes for any sign of junk gunk.


From what I can find, you should be fine with Mayhems. They might stain your tubing but shouldn't gunk it up. Feser are known to be really bad.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*









Awesome temps!

From what I can find, you should be fine with Mayhems. They might stain your tubing but shouldn't gunk it up. Feser are known to be really bad.


Yea, load temps are SWEEEEEEEEEEET, cannot get the idle temps down though!! I know they don't matter in the least, but they STAY at 32c-34c no matter what. And that's bios temp, not software. I should have done a before and after on the lapping of the cpu block.


----------



## wermad

regardless of how much dye you put in to your liquid, it'll still f***up something. Get lights or colored tube.


----------



## mbudden

Edited the Google Docs list.
If I forgot anyone. Do mention so.
Sorry having a bit of an off day.


----------



## mistax

RX360 Kit on its way with EK GPU block.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11694466*
> RX360 Kit on its way with EK GPU block.


kewl


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol my half rx kit is on the way rx360, rasa block, rasa rev for a d5 and clamps and tubing but the pump, gpu block and barbs haset shipped yet i hope they do monday.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;11693161*
> Mbudden, go for a Haf-X if you dont mind a big case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could always fit a 360mm rad in there and I am sure there is space for another 240mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its got lots of space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I was thinking HAF 912. But the thing is, they don't sell the HAF 912 Ultra here in the states. Only in Europe. Which is a major downer because the inside is painted black and instead of one tool-less they give you a bunch.

Maybe HAF 392, but from what I can see. It's the same deal. No black inside. My cheap-o Rosewill Blackbone comes all black and all & it was like 30$ shipped.

Just looking around. I don't need something as big as the HAF X though lol


----------



## Jonesey I7

I love my case....it's silent with as good of cooling as the haf's, all black, tooless, and water cooling friendly. Maybe not as water friendly as some, but water friendly enough for sure.


----------



## mbudden

The HAF 932 & 922 both offer a spot above on the case for 2x120MM fans... But I don't think it will be able to hold a 240 rad.


----------



## Jonesey I7

If it can house 2 120mm fans, then it can house a 240 rad, as it will be attached to the top through the fans?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11694897*
> If it can house 2 120mm fans, then it can house a 240 rad, as it will be attached to the top through the fans?


Hmm... True. I'm not sure. If not, I could always put it in the case at the bottom. Since I believe one of them has a spot for 2x120mm fans at the bottom. But then again, that'd mean that my PSU would have to be at the top.


----------



## [Adz]

Top-mounted psu









But just checking... do the screws go all the way through the RS240?? Last I tried, it gets most of the way through but doesn't come out the other side.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11695038*
> Top-mounted psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But just checking... do the screws go all the way through the RS240?? Last I tried, it gets most of the way through but doesn't come out the other side.


What do you mean screws going through? Do you mean putting the long screws all the way through the rad? You don't want to do that. It doesn't exactly kill anything but it can mess up fins, the screws only go about 1/4 past the metal once they thread in.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11695038*
> Top-mounted psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But just checking... do the screws go all the way through the RS240?? Last I tried, it gets most of the way through but doesn't come out the other side.


Nope.
I don't think they do.
Which screws? Fan?


----------



## [Adz]

Yeah, the fan screws. I tried it, just to see - I thought that if it did, I could get really long screws and go through the push fan, through the rad and out the other end through the pull fan as well. Didn't go all the way through

But speaking of fins, I noticed that my RS240 has some damaged fins - they're a little bent/warped. That's not going to be a problem is it?


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11695168*
> Yeah, the fan screws. I tried it, just to see - I thought that if it did, I could get really long screws and go through the push fan, through the rad and out the other end through the pull fan as well. Didn't go all the way through
> 
> But speaking of fins, I noticed that my RS240 has some damaged fins - they're a little bent/warped. That's not going to be a problem is it?


nO, itll only be a problem if all of them are bent restricting airflow. If only a couple of them are damaged, then no biggie


----------



## [Adz]

Sweet, thanks


----------



## porschedrifter

What an awesome kit. I love my XSPC x2o, still going strong for 3 years now? Easily cooling my x6 1090t @4.0GHz


----------



## kingofyo1

hey porsche, you wanna be entered into the spreadsheet for the club? you should post up some pics of the setup!


----------



## porschedrifter

I dont have a RASA though









and my setup is so ghetto


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porschedrifter;11695869*
> I dont have a RASA though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and my setup is so ghetto


Please tell me there's more than just zipties holding your res in place


----------



## mbudden

That's a crap ton of bubbles in your res.


----------



## porschedrifter

These were taken 3 years ago when I just put it together and filled it for the first time, bubbles are gone now. (also before my rx120)

Actually, what makes you think zip ties cannot securely hold a small res?

hahah yeah I have one long one going around the top brace bar of my case and two more going around the res itself, then the res sits on this metal tab that extends from the top of the slots on my case.

It's more than secure


----------



## [Adz]

Zipties alone simply cannot grip it enough to hold it like that, unless you've got them crossing (some going around it, some more going from top to bottom).


----------



## mbudden

Eh. If it's been working this way for 3 years. No need to change it.


----------



## porschedrifter

I had no other place to put it in my case, so the zip ties came in handy. I'm actually thinking of routing zip ties through the rear vent there, that is not being used or blocked by the rad anymore, and have it look more flush and eliminate the vertical zip tie going from the top cross bar.

It's great, I can move, tilt and sit my case all the way on it's side and the rad doesn't go anywhere.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11694855*
> I love my case....it's silent with as good of cooling as the haf's, all black, tooless, and water cooling friendly. Maybe not as water friendly as some, but water friendly enough for sure.


I like the case i got from a member on ocn modded rocket fish no water in it yet and i need to drill some holes to make cable managment easyer but here she is on air.


----------



## kingofyo1

i soooo almost bought that case... it was a great pickup you got there!


----------



## kingofyo1

Porche: hey if it works, dont knock it! it seems reasonable to me, especially if there's no other way to put it. Good setup man.

Matt, lets add him in as an honoree club member since he does have an xspc part in the loop


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11697128*
> i soooo almost bought that case... it was a great pickup you got there!


Yea its huge but pretty lightweight it weighs less then my antec 900 did with the stuff in it and for some crazy reason im 8c cooler then my antec 900 on my cpu. And this case only has 2 intake and 1 out guess it could be that its so big and the hot air is not building up. Can't wait till i get my water stuff in to install in it i hope to be really cool then.


----------



## townending

my 240mm kit is in the mail.


----------



## kingofyo1

sweet, town! let us know how it goes, and if you have any install questions or anything dont hesitate to post them here! oh yeah, and definitely post pics when you get done


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol so do i count part of the club or not i didnt buy a full kit lol but its pretty much a rx360 with upgraded pump and tubing.


----------



## townending

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11699399*
> sweet, town! let us know how it goes, and if you have any install questions or anything dont hesitate to post them here! oh yeah, and definitely post pics when you get done


yes, are the fans in this bundle decent or should i swap them for some yate loons


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11699413*
> lol so do i count part of the club or not i didnt buy a full kit lol but its pretty much a rx360 with upgraded pump and tubing.


I vote yes since you've been in here helping so much


----------



## spoolindsm127

Hey guys I am also thinking of buying this kit but can't seem to make up my mind regarding which radiator to choose. I will be running a i7-920 + GTX 470 loop (full-cover block).

Is it worth it to get the RS360 over the RS240?

What's better for my setup, a RS360 or RX240? I would much rather go with a newer, more compact radiator (RX240) but only if it can match the performance of a RS360 or possibly beat it. Or since I'm spending the extra cash for a RX rad should I just get a RX360? Or will that be overkill?

Would really appreciate anyone's advice on this. Thanks


----------



## Bal3Wolf

rx360 would be a good choice for a i7 and 470 sence they do dump alot of heat. And would give you room to add another 470 later on with a block. The rs360 would do the job to just not as cool temps. If you have room in your case to fit a rx360 they are 60mm thick with a fan your looking at 85mm atleast.


----------



## spoolindsm127

I will be externally mounting actually









But I have an older style case with the PSU on top, so I will have to offset the radiator downwards rather than upwards like most people. I have my case sitting on a stand so the radiator overhanging below is not a problem. But I would still rather have a 240 that doesn't overhang in-case I ever need to move the case around and put it on the floor.

What about for a i7-920 CPU only loop?

Thanks for the quick reply









P.S. Is anyone looking for 3 extra fans from the kit for push/pull?


----------



## [Adz]

For an i7-920 only, an RX120 will handle it, but I'd say an RS240 or RX240 will give you much more headroom.
That said, you seem to have a very low vCore so I wouldn't expect an RX120 to really struggle at all if you use push/pull with some decent fans.


----------



## Devildog_13

Hey guys, i figured this is the best thread to ask, if i get a rx360 kit then add a ek supreme HF (then sell the cpu block thats included in the kit) and get a ek chipset block, will that work well? I want to know because its going to be 450$ (including compression fittings and tubing and silver coil etc)$, almost the same price with a custom cpu only loop for about 400$. Thanks!

Also where can i get the rx360 kit besides jab-tech? Can't access the site because i'm in the Philippines (jab-tech is refusing my IP), but i can buy from a US store using my US card. Any other US online store i can go to? frozencpu, performance-pcs and sidewinder computers don't have the kit. HELP!


----------



## sidibali

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Devildog_13*


Hey guys, i figured this is the best thread to ask, if i get a rx360 kit then add a ek supreme HF (then sell the cpu block thats included in the kit) and get a ek chipset block, will that work well? I want to know because its going to be 450$ (including compression fittings and tubing and silver coil etc)$, almost the same price with a custom cpu only loop for about 400$. Thanks!

Also where can i get the rx360 kit besides jab-tech? Can't access the site because i'm in the Philippines (jab-tech is refusing my IP), but i can buy from a US store using my US card. Any other US online store i can go to? frozencpu, performance-pcs and sidewinder computers don't have the kit. HELP!










http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12..._Hot_Item.html

14 in stock


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


If you're going to be putting it together again, you'll to get new pads. Section 4 here tells you how thick each section needs to be. The 0.5mm won't be enough. 
If you can't find it elsewhere, you could always buy directly from EK: http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ac...rmal-pads.html


I'm hoping to find it at a site purchaseable with US$ as the EK site goes in english pounds from the looks of it? Well I will continue looking for a way to deal with this. Come Monday I get to start the annoying impatient wait to transfer paypal funds to get the EK gpu block. Same day will get mobo blocks.

Think that will wrap it all up though looks like I'll most likely be getting the parts week after christmas to assemble & get running. You'll be the first to know when I start getting parts in.


----------



## GoodInk

Hey guys something we really need to start asking people when recommending which kit to get, is fan noise.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog_13;11700450*
> Hey guys, i figured this is the best thread to ask, if i get a rx360 kit then add a ek supreme HF (then sell the cpu block thats included in the kit) and get a ek chipset block, will that work well? I want to know because its going to be 450$ (including compression fittings and tubing and silver coil etc)$, almost the same price with a custom cpu only loop for about 400$. Thanks!
> 
> Also where can i get the rx360 kit besides jab-tech? Can't access the site because i'm in the Philippines (jab-tech is refusing my IP), but i can buy from a US store using my US card. Any other US online store i can go to? frozencpu, performance-pcs and sidewinder computers don't have the kit. HELP!


No need to sell the rasa cpu block cause its a pretty decent block not a huge differnce in it and ek.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11700716*
> No need to sell the rasa cpu block cause its a pretty decent block not a huge differnce in it and ek.


Yes there is, the Rasa flows better, lol. Anyways I'm guessing he is going for looks.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


No need to sell the rasa cpu block cause its a pretty decent block not a huge differnce in it and ek.


hey whats the diff in temps between the mega you had and your current loop?


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


hey whats the diff in temps between the mega you had and your current loop?


I'd also like to know this. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


hey whats the diff in temps between the mega you had and your current loop?


Before with my mega, I was at 4.1ghz at 1.425v...59c max temps in linx. Video card on air at this oc, 78c max temps in game. NOW, 4.35ghz 1.56v.... 48c max temp 20 pass of linx, video card 1 hour occt.... 49c max!!

The only difference between my setup and the stock kit is the 6870 ek block, and I lapped my cpu block flat, not even to a complete mirror finish.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


hey whats the diff in temps between the mega you had and your current loop?


Dont have it yet its on order i should have it by this friday.


----------



## Devildog_13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sidibali*


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12..._Hot_Item.html

14 in stock


Im looking for the RX not RS.

If you guys say the rasa block is that good, ill take your word for it. Its now just a matter of where to find the kit!


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Devildog_13*


Im looking for the RX not RS.

If you guys say the rasa block is that good, ill take your word for it. Its now just a matter of where to find the kit!


Jab-tech is the only place with it that I know of.

ON a side note, just hit the buy button on daddy's last Christmas presents!!

The smaller ups is for my living room tv, everything else is for my baby.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Devildog_13*


Im looking for the RX not RS.

If you guys say the rasa block is that good, ill take your word for it. Its now just a matter of where to find the kit!


jabtech is only place sells the rx kits i thk and you can use coupon code facebook to get 5% off your order. They have decent prices to and good shipping prices i paid 9 bucks for 9 pounds of stuff and its ariving in 3 days thru fedex.


----------



## spoolindsm127

@Bal3Wolf

Thanks for your help and suggestions.

I have to make up my mind by the end of tonight as far as what kit I will be going with for CPU Only.

Corsair H70 for $83 shipped
XSPC Rasa RS240 Kit (+killcoil, t-fitting, stop plug) $145 shipped after 5% discount
XSPC Rasa RS360 Kit (+killcoil, t-fitting, stop plug) $165 shipped after 5% discount

Can anyone please share their personal experience if they have tried both the H70 and Rasa kit on a OCed i7-920?

Seriously someone just make the decision for me


----------



## mbudden

I thought about just getting the H70.
But ended up pulling the trigger on the RASA.


----------



## [Adz]

CPU only, I'd go for the RS240


----------



## spoolindsm127

mbudden

I read your thread where you were trying to decide between the Rasa and H70. I don't want to decide otherwise and end up regretting the H70.

[Adz]

I was thinking about the RS240. It's clear I'm looking for the best budget solution.

That's why I was having a hard time justifying paying almost double ($70 more) for the Rasa kit.

My i7 at sig clocks hits 75c after 100 passes of LinX on a True Cu. If the RS240 can drop temps by 10c then it's definitely worth it.

I wish the H70 wasn't on sale this would be a no brainer


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;11704060*
> mbudden
> 
> I read your thread where you were trying to decide between the Rasa and H70. I don't want to decide otherwise and end up regretting the H70.
> 
> [Adz]
> 
> I was thinking about the RS240. It's clear I'm looking for the best budget solution.
> 
> That's why I was having a hard time justifying paying almost double ($70 more) for the Rasa kit.
> 
> My i7 at sig clocks hits 75c after 100 passes of LinX on a True Cu. If the RS240 can drop temps by 10c then it's definitely worth it.
> 
> I wish the H70 wasn't on sale this would be a no brainer


Well that easy, wait until the H70 isn't on sale, lol


----------



## spoolindsm127

LOL I know right!

But I'm too impatient and want to upgrade before Christmas









You think there will be a significant difference in temp between a RS240 and RS360 in a CPU Only loop?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11704240*
> Well that easy, wait until the H70 isn't on sale, lol


----------



## urdeath007

I wouldn't go with the h70, no upgrade/expansion options.


----------



## spoolindsm127

What if upgrading/expansion is not really a main concern?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;11704469*
> LOL I know right!
> 
> But I'm too impatient and want to upgrade before Christmas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You think there will be a significant difference in temp between a RS240 and RS360 in a CPU Only loop?


No, the RS240 is more than enough for a CPU.


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11704561*
> No, the RS240 is more than enough for a CPU.


Even a space heater like my i7-920? I hit mid 80s with it on air at only 1.25v







Plus I think I got the worst mount ever with my True Cu


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;11704611*
> Even a space heater like my i7-920? I hit mid 80s with it on air at only 1.25v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus I think I got the worst mount ever with my True Cu


Yep, i5 750 @ 4.0 with 1.425v
Running a Megahalems Rev.2 with two Gelid Silent 12 PWM fans @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores
Idle: 41°C
Max: 72.25°C

XSPC Rasa 240 kit with stock fans running in pull, air coming from outside the case @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores(less than 24hrs cure time using AS5)
Idle: 35.5°C
Max: 60.5°C


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11704684*
> Yep, i5 750 @ 4.0 with 1.425v
> Running a Megahalems Rev.2 with two Gelid Silent 12 PWM fans @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores
> Idle: 41°C
> Max: 72.25°C
> 
> XSPC Rasa 240 kit with stock fans running in pull, air coming from outside the case @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores(less than 24hrs cure time using AS5)
> Idle: 35.5°C
> Max: 60.5°C


Thanks a lot for your help everyone, especially GoodInk









That's a great comparison there. Really shows what this kit is capable of. You dropped 12c under load with the Rasa kit, nice! And from reviews I have seen the Megahalems outperforms the True 120, so maybe I will see even a bigger difference.

Think I'm gonna pull the trigger on the RS240. Or I can go with the RS360 if someone is willing to buy the 3 fans from the kit from me







. I got GT-15s already that I will be using instead.


----------



## townending

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11704684*
> Yep, i5 750 @ 4.0 with 1.425v
> Running a Megahalems Rev.2 with two Gelid Silent 12 PWM fans @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores
> Idle: 41°C
> Max: 72.25°C
> 
> XSPC Rasa 240 kit with stock fans running in pull, air coming from outside the case @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores(less than 24hrs cure time using AS5)
> Idle: 35.5°C
> Max: 60.5°C


your vcore seems a bit high, i was able to hit 4.0 at 1.33


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *townending;11704928*
> your vcore seems a bit high, i was able to hit 4.0 at 1.33


Thanks for rubbing it in







I think I have one of the worse overclocking 750's out there.


----------



## B16T33

Hello everyone! I just ordered my RS240 last night and it should be hear no later than Wednesday. Unfortunately....I have to wait until Christmas to use it because it is part of the new rig I am building as a present to myself this holiday season









ss or it didn't happen









And the rig that is already hear and wrapped up under the Christmas tree waiting for me...









*Case* - Antec Twelve Hundred
*CPU* - Intel Core i7-950
*Mobo* - ASUS P6X58D Premium
*Memory* - CORSAIR XMS3 1600 6GB (3 x 2GB)
*Graphics* - 2x EVGA GTX 460 768 in SLI 800/2000
*HDD* - Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB
*SSD* - Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB SATA III
*PSU* - CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX
*CPU Cooling* - Soon to be XSPC Rasa 750 RS240


----------



## townending

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11705340*
> Thanks for rubbing it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have one of the worse overclocking 750's out there.


i feel bad now, have you tired going lower?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B16T33;11705579*
> Hello everyone! I just ordered my RS240 last night and it should be hear no later than Wednesday. Unfortunately....I have to wait until Christmas to use it because it is part of the new rig I am building as a present to myself this holiday season
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ss or it didn't happen
> 
> And the rig that is already hear and wrapped up under the Christmas tree waiting for me...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Case* - Antec Twelve Hundred
> *CPU* - Intel Core i7-950
> *Mobo* - ASUS P6X58D Premium
> *Memory* - CORSAIR XMS3 1600 6GB (3 x 2GB)
> *Graphics* - 2x EVGA GTX 460 768 in SLI 800/2000
> *HDD* - Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB
> *SSD* - Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB SATA III
> *PSU* - CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX
> *CPU Cooling* - Soon to be XSPC Rasa 750 RS240


Looks like someone didn't listen to our advice about not using UV dyes and go for UV tubing. Also, no PT Nuke or Silver Kill Coil?


----------



## B16T33

I heard about the uv die debate but I was in a rush and forgot to take it into consideration :/ And no I didn't get any additional additives because of what is posted on FrozenCPU about the fluid.









Additionally, doesn't it say yearly fluid changes are recommended with this product? It seems to me that this would have a major effect on the gunk buildup problem that everyone is complaining about...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *townending;11705583*
> i feel bad now, have you tired going lower?


Oh yeah, if you want to see all the settings, they are in the 3rd post on this thread.


----------



## mbudden

Oh. I didn't see you got fluid and not the dye. My bad. Not sure how the fluid holds up... Kill coil is usually recommended though. It's not really an additive. Just pure silver.


----------



## Balsagna

Buddy has the fluid and he just changes it out as he's supposed to around every 6months. Never an issue.

Most people that have problems are because they don't maintain their loops.

By the way mbudden - Friday/Saturday I should have pictures for you!


----------



## mbudden

Sounds good to me man







But that's in a week


----------



## Balsagna

I know. I took a picture of the fluid.. lol. I went ahead and got Feser Acid Green for now. Just for screenies and all that.


----------



## Jonesey I7

One last pic with some "mood lighting"


----------



## [Adz]

I think I need to get some CCFLs.


----------



## mbudden

Do so. They are great. Got two 12" ones off a user here for 3$ shipped, that's with a inverter too + a switch.


----------



## kingofyo1

well guys, i finalized my setup except for when i get my gpu block... Let me know what you think.. This is the last time i fix my backside wiring







i think it looks good personally, maximized my use of zip ties and electrical tape to blacken those poopy colored wires ^^


----------



## [Adz]

Nice. Know any particular brands that are good? I've got red UV tubing, so it makes sense to get red UV lighting too, but the only lights I've looked at all have reviews saying that they're pink.


----------



## mbudden

No such thing as red UV lights. UV light shows up as like a bluish-purple color. Do you mean red CCFL's?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11707212*
> well guys, i finalized my setup except for when i get my gpu block... Let me know what you think.. This is the last time i fix my backside wiring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think it looks good personally, maximized my use of zip ties and electrical tape to blacken those poopy colored wires ^^


I love it, our machines are freakishly alike, same mobo, same water kit, even our spot cools are mounted in the same spots lol.


----------



## kingofyo1

howd you mount your rs360 rad, jonesey? and whats your thoughts on the thermaltake case ya got?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11707270*
> No such thing as red UV lights. UV light shows up as like a bluish-purple color. Do you mean red CCFL's?


Could have sworn I saw something about red ccfl's that make uv reactive stuff like tubes glow.


----------



## kingofyo1

UV CCFL tubes will make UV tubing or UV dyes glow. it was probably a red UV CCFL you were thinking of


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11707351*
> howd you mount your rs360 rad, jonesey? and whats your thoughts on the thermaltake case ya got?


I LOVE my case, don't really know why. It's so sleek and sexy to me, but beauty may just be in the eye of the beholder.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11707270*
> No such thing as red UV lights. UV light shows up as like a bluish-purple color. Do you mean red CCFL's?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11707410*
> UV CCFL tubes will make UV tubing or UV dyes glow. it was probably a red UV CCFL you were thinking of


Now I'm confused.

And I can't find any cold cathodes that are red and specify UV.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11707489*
> Now I'm confused.
> 
> And I can't find any cold cathodes that are red and specify UV.


Really?

I typed Red CCFL into Google.
http://www.amazon.com/Logisys-CCFL-12in-Dual-Cathode/dp/B0002EXI6W]Amazon.com: Logisys CCFL 12in Dual Red Cathode: Electronics[/URL]


----------



## kingofyo1

lol matt, always quick with the typing ^^


----------



## mbudden

Bahahaha.
I'm a little quick.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11707512*
> Really?
> 
> I typed Red CCFL into Google.
> Amazon.com: Logisys CCFL 12in Dual Red Cathode: Electronics


Doesn't specify UV?
Or am I being really thick here and not realising that all CCFL's will make UV tubes glow?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11707573*
> Doesn't specify UV?
> Or am I being really thick here and not realising that all CCFL's will make UV tubes glow?


bingo!!!


----------



## Jonesey I7

Ok, now I'm sure I'm the one being thick, but watching my res for the last two days, the water level seems to be dropping. Now I don't have any leaks, is the water evaporating or what?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11707573*
> Doesn't specify UV?
> Or am I being really thick here and not realising that all CCFL's will make UV tubes glow?


Because you're asking for the color red. If you want red light, then you have to go Red CCFL. If you want UV light, then you have to go with a UV CCFL.

Red/Blue etc CCFL won't react with UV Tubing.
You need a UV CCFL to have it react.


----------



## kingofyo1

lol oh and jonesey i like your push pull config








those rainbow fans look pretty sweet ^^ love the lighting you got in there









oh yeah:
adz
http://www.sundialmicro.com/vizo-ccfluv-cold-cathode-light-300mm-uv_1969_1163.html

matt: can you PM a mod and try to make our club official please?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11707622*
> lol oh and jonesey i like your push pull config
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those rainbow fans look pretty sweet ^^ love the lighting you got in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh yeah:
> adz
> http://www.sundialmicro.com/vizo-ccfluv-cold-cathode-light-300mm-uv_1969_1163.html
> 
> matt: can you PM a mod and try to make our club official please?


yea yea yea, I been taking chit ever since I posted the first pics.... I had those fans on my mega and chose them because the case fans do a little multi color light show, they seemed right at the time. Plus they are dead silent, and push 70 cfm. Now I wish I would have just gotten some regular ol fans.


----------



## kingofyo1

... you said regular old?? WHAT MAKES REGULAR OLD ORIGINAL?!? your fans make your setup original!


----------



## urdeath007

Those are sexy pics. I have a simple question though that somehow I'm unable to see the answer to.

I have blue LEDs I have 2 Blue UVs with two 12" cathodes on each but I'm undecided on the best way to "mount" or stick them inside the case. They look identical to the ones you guys have in your cases. I'll see if I can find the product page of what I'm talking about but they're PC purpose UVs. I'd love to hear how you guys have done it. I've kinda just been eyeing the internals of my case wishing I had my kit so I could play surgeon.

I'm also getting prepared to make a frankenstein rig so I can access these forums while I'm doing the modifications/setup. Just goes to show how awesome you all are!







I have an AMD rig from when the 965 was new so figure I'll throw some parts that are around into it so I can use the net lmao.

I'd buy those extra fans if I knew a simple way to make em UV reactive.







Otherwise I have a motherboard box somewhere around here full of fans from my personal two rigs to ones I've put together for friends. Lol. More parts then I hope I need. I have heard of some people using blue laundry detergent to add a blue UV effect to plastic. Hmmm :goes to see whats in the cupboards:

BTW anyone have any other sites they'd recommend for purchasing WC parts for in the US/with US $? Still looking for a solution on purchasing the EK block pads.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11708053*
> Those are sexy pics. I have a simple question though that somehow I'm unable to see the answer to.
> 
> I have blue LEDs I have 2 Blue UVs with two 12" cathodes on each but I'm undecided on the best way to "mount" or stick them inside the case. I'd love to hear how you guys have done it. I've kinda just been eyeing the internals of my case wishing I had my kit so I could play surgeon.
> 
> I'm also getting prepared to make a frankenstein rig so I can access these forums while I'm doing the modifications/setup. Just goes to show how awesome you all are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an AMD rig from when the 965 was new so figure I'll throw some parts that are around into it so I can use the net lmao.
> 
> I'd buy those extra fans if I knew a simple way to make em UV reactive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I have a motherboard box somewhere around here full of fans from my personal two rigs to ones I've put together for friends. Lol. More parts then I hope I need. I have heard of some people using blue laundry detergent to add a blue UV effect to plastic. Hmmm :goes to see whats in the cupboards:


Mine is ghetto fabulous, but I used some mounting putty I had laying around my shop lol!


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11708148*
> Mine is ghetto fabulous, but I used some mounting putty I had laying around my shop lol!


If it works then that's all that matters right?!







Lol well that n maybe looking decent.







Though that'd be an ideal solution if you ask me.

Hmmm has anyone used external bays for HDDs or any preferred 5.25 to 3.5 drive bay converters. Looking at an external option for my HDDs or simply getting a 2tb if I can't find a way to make use of this 5.25 open space. I'm confident newegg will have yet another sale before the end of the year.


----------



## kingofyo1

zipties are a case modders best friend







take a look a page or two back at my pics, and you'll see what i mean ^^


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11707591*
> bingo!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11707612*
> Because you're asking for the color red. If you want red light, then you have to go Red CCFL. If you want UV light, then you have to go with a UV CCFL.
> 
> Red/Blue etc CCFL won't react with UV Tubing.
> You need a UV CCFL to have it react.


You two contradict each other. My brain explodes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11708322*
> Hmmm has anyone used external bays for HDDs or any preferred 5.25 to 3.5 drive bay converters. Looking at an external option for my HDDs or simply getting a 2tb if I can't find a way to make use of this 5.25 open space. I'm confident newegg will have yet another sale before the end of the year.


Nexus Doubletwin. I use them, they're pretty nice.


----------



## mbudden

Look.

Get UV Reactive tubing only works with UV Lights.
Which are these and look this color.










Those are the only lights that will work with UV Reactive tubing.
Regular CCFL lights will not work... such as.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11707622*
> matt: can you PM a mod and try to make our club official please?


Didn't see this.

Will do. I know just the mod


----------



## Blostorm

Just installed my kit. Was kind of easy to do and fun







. Had bubbles for like 2 mins and now it's all out. Doing the 24 hour leak test right now.

I went to the pet shop and asked for anti-algua thing and they said they don't have any. I used distilled water. Can I use something instead of PT NUKE ? It's not available here (shipping is too much) and there is no anti-algua here (stupid sellers).

I though myself I could just drain everytime I see algua. Anything else I can use and find easily?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11708523*
> Look.
> 
> Get UV Reactive tubing only works with UV Lights.
> Which are these and look this color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Okay, thanks. The UV tubes - is that purple glow always visible or is it out of naked eye spectrum?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blostorm;11708549*
> Just installed my kit. Was kind of easy to do and fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Had bubbles for like 2 mins and now it's all out. Doing the 24 hour leak test right now.
> 
> I went to the pet shop and asked for anti-algua thing and they said they don't have any. I used distilled water. Can I use something instead of PT NUKE ? It's not available here (shipping is too much) and there is no anti-algua here (stupid sellers).
> 
> I though myself I could just drain everytime I see algua. Anything else I can use and find easily?


Jewelry shop and get a strip of .999% Silver?
PT Nuke isn't something you pick up in a pet shop. lol


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11708566*
> Okay, thanks. The UV tubes - is that purple glow always visible or is it out of naked eye spectrum?


To the human eye, you see a purplish glow. It's just how the human eye sees the light.


----------



## Blostorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11708576*
> Jewelry shop and get a strip of .999% Silver?
> PT Nuke isn't something you pick up in a pet shop. lol


I said I can't get PT NUKE because of shipping costs to Canada


----------



## Bal3Wolf

LOl you know what really sucks my tubing,rad,cpu block, and rev wil come in tommor probly but the pump gpu block and barbs havet even shipped yet.


----------



## [Adz]

Downstairs, I have a pump sitting in the hallway. Been there for months. I had a look at it - it's designed for central heating. Has a head pressure of 6m, but only does something like 70lp/h.


----------



## kingofyo1

hows it powered, adz? 12v or more? 6m head pressure would be fine for cpu, gpu and maybe a mobo block or two.. take a look at the HP of something like the 350 and compare that to what you have. see how far down yours is. Chances are its probably not too bad off, which means yours is usable as long as you got the voltage required for it


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11709047*
> hows it powered, adz? 12v or more? 6m head pressure would be fine for cpu, gpu and maybe a mobo block or two.. take a look at the HP of something like the 350 and compare that to what you have. see how far down yours is. Chances are its probably not too bad off, which means yours is usable as long as you got the voltage required for it


Tho he said flow was only like 70lph that wouldnt cut it wont be fast enugh to cool and leave the block probly.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11708465*
> You two contradict each other. My brain explodes.
> 
> Nexus Doubletwin. I use them, they're pretty nice.


Where did ya purchased em? Just like going to trusted sites.









I'd like to know what the thoughts towards this site is. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com Trusted/liked/absolutely love-can't do without. Found a list of parts I can get all from that same site so figure it'd be a lot easier doing it that way. Just curious what others think of it/if they've used it.


----------



## Devildog_13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11703312*
> jabtech is only place sells the rx kits i thk and you can use coupon code facebook to get 5% off your order. They have decent prices to and good shipping prices i paid 9 bucks for 9 pounds of stuff and its ariving in 3 days thru fedex.


Thanks for that. The reason i asked where else i could get a kit is because jab-tech is refusing my IP. Might just get a relative in LA to purchase it and send it to me. Im in the Philippines btw. Also im still contemplating over a 400$ custom loop vs a 250$ rx360 kit+accessories.Thanks for the replies!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog_13;11709486*
> Thanks for that. The reason i asked where else i could get a kit is because jab-tech is refusing my IP. Might just get a relative in LA to purchase it and send it to me. Im in the Philippines btw. Also im still contemplating over a 400$ custom loop vs a 250$ rx360 kit+accessories.Thanks for the replies!


Yea i was having trouble making my mind up custom or rx360 i went with a custom with the rx360 with rasa block and rasa rev for a d5 pump.


----------



## taylorb095

Quick question, which are the in and out's on the back of the XSPC 750 pump/res?

Is the bottom barb on the left beside the power outlet the OUT? I think I got mine mixed up :O


----------



## urdeath007

Oy, here is yet another question tonight. From my understanding this would complete my loop but just so I don't mess ****e up I'll ask. :S

So with this "MB FullBoard" piece (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10432/ex-blc-730/EK_ASUS_X58_P6T_Series_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_-_Black_EK-FB_ASUS_X58_NickelAcetal.html) would then be all I need for my Asus P6T Deluxe V2 Mobo?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131365

My confusion is just partly due to still bit unsure as to what it's going onto on the board.

I was looking around for a few fittings for the blocks (the barbs...) anyways found a picture of a WCS case that looks impressive. One very busy WC loop imo. http://www.xoxidescripts.com.php5-3.dfw1-2.websitetestlink.com/httpdocs/viewimages.php?sku=11358&id=1252


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blostorm;11708771*
> I said I can't get PT NUKE because of shipping costs to Canada


... I just said you can't pick up PT Nuke in pet shops...
Not go pick some up online...









Anyways, like I said. Hit up a jewelery store.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taylorb095;11709621*
> Quick question, which are the in and out's on the back of the XSPC 750 pump/res?
> 
> Is the bottom barb on the left beside the power outlet the OUT? I think I got mine mixed up :O


In to the res is the one on the bottom of the Res. And the out of the res is the one that's attached to the pump.


----------



## B16T33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Oh. I didn't see you got fluid and not the dye. My bad. Not sure how the fluid holds up... Kill coil is usually recommended though. It's not really an additive. Just pure silver.


Do you still have to worry about the algae growth with this fluid


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B16T33*


Do you still have to worry about the algae growth with this fluid


Thats what silver does it stops stuff from growing in your loop.


----------



## mbudden

He didn't order a kill coil.


----------



## OmegaNemesis28

back in my days they didnt have these convenient, super cool kits.


----------



## kingofyo1

lol back in your day you had to use car parts, right? and yes these kits do come with 2m of tubing


----------



## fr0st.

^ 600th reply on this thread.


----------



## urdeath007

My question regarding this Mobo piece is in regards to tubing size

MB FullBoard Piece: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...kelAcetal.html

Motherboardhttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131365

On the Mobo piece it says 
Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2)
1 for the IN & OUT flow 
If the XSPC Rasa kit uses 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD tubing....What fitting size should be used with that

Found these hand dandy 5.25 to 3.5 bay converters when browsing the sidewinder site. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ak3saandideh.html Too bad they're currently sold out. Won't be making it onto my final WC parts purchase.









Rather sure it is though just wanting to make sure. Just like to be sure on these part purchases as they add up quickly. Thanks for all the help folks!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you need 1/2inch barbs the 7/16 5/8 fits over it snug.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


you need 1/2inch barbs the 7/16 5/8 fits over it snug.










. :que emberassment & lightbulb turning on.:

Thanks very much.


----------



## fr0st.

If I were you, I wouldn't go with mobo cooling, mostly it's for the bling and a P6TV2 'aint worth it really









Won't be able to buy WC'ing when I could (took a girl to the movies







), after Christmas now, this will built up the anticipation


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11709047*
> hows it powered, adz? 12v or more? 6m head pressure would be fine for cpu, gpu and maybe a mobo block or two.. take a look at the HP of something like the 350 and compare that to what you have. see how far down yours is. Chances are its probably not too bad off, which means yours is usable as long as you got the voltage required for it


I think it's 24v. I have no intention of using it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11709422*
> Where did ya purchased em? Just like going to trusted sites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to know what the thoughts towards this site is. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com Trusted/liked/absolutely love-can't do without. Found a list of parts I can get all from that same site so figure it'd be a lot easier doing it that way. Just curious what others think of it/if they've used it.


http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6594_Nexus-Double-Twin-HDD-decoupling.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taylorb095;11709621*
> Quick question, which are the in and out's on the back of the XSPC 750 pump/res?
> 
> Is the bottom barb on the left beside the power outlet the OUT? I think I got mine mixed up :O


The one next to the pump is the out - the pump pushes the water from there. The one in the bottom left is the inlet, where the water returns to the reservoir.


----------



## wermad

oooohh...lest see how the pump fairs now w/ a 3rd gpu block making it a total of FIVE blocks


----------



## spoolindsm127

^
Looking nice wermad







Can't wait to see how the pump holds up.

I just grabbed the RS360 kit









Please add me to the list! Thank you


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11718361*
> oooohh...lest see how the pump fairs now w/ a 3rd gpu block making it a total of FIVE blocks


I want


----------



## wermad

I'll be running IBT and Vantage tonight once I get off work


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11718515*
> I'll be running IBT and Vantage tonight once I get off work


Do you think you would be able to measure your flow rate? Or is that asking too much?


----------



## wermad

I have no tools for it, I know its piss poor considering the amount of pressure this pump has stock (I think its ~1.3m head). I'm already planning to purchase the D5 soon and Im only doing some handful of tests and little to no gaming.


----------



## B16T33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11710585*
> Thats what silver does it stops stuff from growing in your loop.


Yes I understand that. What I'm asking is if you still need the coil with this fluid due to the fact that it is not water...it is a fluid compound. Can any organisms even survive in this fluid?

ps sorry for the lengthened response time, been busy with holiday shopping and things


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11718659*
> I have no tools for it, I know its piss poor considering the amount of pressure this pump has stock (I think its ~1.3m head). I'm already planning to purchase the D5 soon and Im only doing some handful of tests and little to no gaming.


You don't need tools, just a 1 gallon jug, a funnel, and a helper to run the stop watch and pump if you can't feed the water fast enough.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11718815*
> You don't need tools, just a 1 gallon jug, a funnel, and a helper to run the stop watch and pump if you can't feed the water fast enough.


Ill give a try a this weekend.

Im kinda stumped on which pump & res combo:

I know the the DDC is the better than the D5 due to its greater head pressure but I don't like the looks of the XSPC dual bay res for it. But this combo is cheaper than the D5.

The D5 has greater flow rate, about 3/4 of the head pressure of the DDC and XSPC bay res looks just the the x20-750, something I really like about this unit's looks. Though this combo is a bit more than the DDC.

I'll think about this week







.


----------



## GoodInk

Well if you have good flow, you'll know after testing, why buy a new one?


----------



## wermad

this pump is being pushed harder than it was designed. correction, xspc rates the x20-750 @ 1.8m head, the DDC is rated at the whopping 6.1m, and the D5 3.1m. Due to the lower cost and higher pressure, I think the DDC will be a better choice. Though, Im going to research it a bit more...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I got some of my stuff in today and dang the rx360 is one huge rad lol i was gonna install it with my air but i cant even get it to fit in their with fans with my air cooler installed. I should get my pump gpu block and barbs wed or thursday and be set to setup my loop soon.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11719759*
> I got some of my stuff in today and dang the rx360 is one huge rad lol i was gonna install it with my air but i cant even get it to fit in their with fans with my air cooler installed. I should get my pump gpu block and barbs wed or thursday and be set to setup my loop soon.


Can't wait to see it, and some temps.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11719759*
> I got some of my stuff in today and dang the rx360 is one huge rad lol i was gonna install it with my air but i cant even get it to fit in their with fans with my air cooler installed. I should get my pump gpu block and barbs wed or thursday and be set to setup my loop soon.


I'm hoping my parts arrive at the same time otherwise I'm going to have a very busy week following christmas setting up the loop & making sure everything runs fine (going to make my 4.2 OC permanent when the loop is installed as I ran it for awhile but saw temps creep up so recorded settings until loop is setup).

Oh and the best part is I won't hear this whiny high pitched 480 SC fan noise anymore! At first it's not a problem but seeing as how I restart my computer about every 3rd or 5th day leaving it on to fold it becomes a rather annoying sound at 75-80% fan. que the offtone band playing loudly.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11719847*
> I'm hoping my parts arrive at the same time otherwise I'm going to have a very busy week following christmas setting up the loop & making sure everything runs fine (going to make my 4.2 OC permanent when the loop is installed as I ran it for awhile but saw temps creep up so recorded settings until loop is setup).
> 
> Oh and the best part is I won't hear this whiny high pitched 480 SC fan noise anymore! At first it's not a problem but seeing as how I restart my computer about every 3rd or 5th day leaving it on to fold it becomes a rather annoying sound at 75-80% fan. que the offtone band playing loudly.


The sound of my 6870 stock fan was more than 50% of the reason I bought water!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11719811*
> Can't wait to see it, and some temps.


Me to lol little nervous now that im starting to get parts in and i got a few issues to figure out like my top the person gave me a rad grill well all the holes are super big so none of the screws the rad came with can be used on it. But it will mount to the case itself just gota figure out how to attach the rad grill im thinking maybe some super glue in corners to hold it to the top opening in the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11719847*
> I'm hoping my parts arrive at the same time otherwise I'm going to have a very busy week following christmas setting up the loop & making sure everything runs fine (going to make my 4.2 OC permanent when the loop is installed as I ran it for awhile but saw temps creep up so recorded settings until loop is setup).
> 
> Oh and the best part is I won't hear this whiny high pitched 480 SC fan noise anymore! At first it's not a problem but seeing as how I restart my computer about every 3rd or 5th day leaving it on to fold it becomes a rather annoying sound at 75-80% fan. que the offtone band playing loudly.


Yea i run boinc on my ati card so i got the fan on 77% its pretty dang lound its gonna be a nice change with the water block on it tho i am gonna have alot of fans but i still think they will be much more quiet then the 5870s fan.

I just orderd these some black thumb scews i hope they come in by friday. Heres a photo of the rad grill this is why i need some larger screws.


----------



## wermad

what is the jab-tech discount code?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


what is the jab-tech discount code?


facebook


----------



## wermad

thanks


----------



## spoolindsm127

Hey wermad,

What kind of performance increase did you see by switching from the RS360 to RX360?

I ordered the RS360 kit for my i7-920 and GTX470 loop and am thinking maybe I should have spent the extra $40 for the RX360..


----------



## wermad

for a cpu and gpu loop, you'll see little to no difference. Reason I went w/ the rx360 is that Im running 5 total blocks all together w/ this one loop. Though my temps are about 5c more on my gpu(im running 3 gpu blocks, a cpu block, and a mb block together). My rs360 just ran two gtx 470 in my old build. If your planning on getting a second gpu later, then the RX360 is worth the extra cost. if you can't modify your order, just through in an rs240 to your rs360.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Yea i run boinc on my ati card so i got the fan on 77% its pretty dang lound its gonna be a nice change with the water block on it tho i am gonna have alot of fans but i still think they will be much more quiet then the 5870s fan.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


The sound of my 6870 stock fan was more than 50% of the reason I bought water!!


Yeah it's loud/annoying due to the rig being left on for a few days at a time between restarts. Even though this will essentially be removing 4 fans including the GPU fan I'll be adding 3 of those 120s that come with the kit. I'm sure they'll be noticeable but I kinda doubt they'll compare to the drone of a gpu fan above 75%.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127*


Hey wermad,

What kind of performance increase did you see by switching from the RS360 to RX360?

I ordered the RS360 kit for my i7-920 and GTX470 loop and am thinking maybe I should have spent the extra $40 for the RX360..


I too would like to know this lol.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Heck even me switchig from my antec 900 to this modded rocketfish case the sound is not even half as loud as it was in the antec and im still running 5 120mm fans and gpu fan only thing im not running now is the top 200mm. Lol when i go water i will be removing the 2 fans on my air cooler but adding the rad with 3 fans and sence i cant do a push pull im thinking of doing a thin washer setup to push the fans away from rad some like a thin shroud.


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


for a cpu and gpu loop, you'll see little to no difference. Reason I went w/ the rx360 is that Im running 5 total blocks all together w/ this one loop. Though my temps are about 5c more on my gpu(im running 3 gpu blocks, a cpu block, and a mb block together). My rs360 just ran two gtx 470 in my old build. If your planning on getting a second gpu later, then the RX360 is worth the extra cost. if you can't modify your order, just through in an rs240 to your rs360.


Phew this is what I was hoping to hear







. But seriously after thinking about it and doing some research I agree with you. The performance b/w the two should be similar, with the RX360 edging ahead only under extreme heat loads (e.g. 1.35v+). And even then the difference would be maybe 1c or 2c at most. And since I never plan to do SLI I think I made the right choice with the RS360.

Thanks for your input much appreciated


----------



## wermad

np


----------



## mbudden

On the road to officialness.


----------



## begjr2

noob question how do u join this group


----------



## mbudden

just by saying add me.


----------



## wermad

post pics of your rasa kit


----------



## begjr2

can u add me lol
i have the raza240 just installed today took awhile had to mod case and all have. no access to camera anymore daughter decided to see if she can flush it down the toilet
lol


----------



## begjr2

lol could u add me cant post pics daughter decided to flush camera down toliet the other day to see if it was goingto come out the water hose lol


----------



## begjr2

sorry for double post thought it didnt go through


----------



## AMOCO

You can add me to the club,I got the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit and,
Here are the Pictures:


----------



## CattleCorn

Hi guys. I'm currently running my sig rig i7 930 @ 4.01ghz 24/7 without a hitch, but I've gotten it up to 4.2ghz before, which I would run, if I could only keep the temps from shooting up.

Right now I'm thinking of switching cases (for better cable management and dual rad support) and getting an RX240 kit. Triple rad stuff is outside my price range and I don't want a massive tower.

My question is this: if I wanted to eventually put my GTX 480 on the same RX240 loop, is that going to cancel any temp gains I received from switching to water? In other words, is it too much to expect to be able to get reduce temps enough on my OC'd CPU and also cool the Fermi GPU with the RX240?

If you think my $350 (for case + kit) would be better spent elsewhere, I'd be open to suggestions, as well.


----------



## man00

I'm wondering do the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kits work well? After reading about 30 pages I'm not even sure we still talking about the item here or not. ANyone have some before and after temps results....thanks


----------



## mbudden

Check this first page of this thread, the OP at the bottom.
I need to link these into the OP of this thread.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/833863-xspc-rasa-750-rs240-rs360-universal.html

OH.

Btw. We are Official


----------



## [Adz]

Woo, official.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11726872*
> Check this first page of this thread, the OP at the bottom.
> I need to link these into the OP of this thread.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/833863-xspc-rasa-750-rs240-rs360-universal.html
> 
> OH.
> 
> Btw. We are Official


COOL, and a heads up, I posted my temps in the 3rd post plus all the pics from the other thread too. I hope it isn't too confusing. Maybe I should put in order of, temps, 1st set of pic, 2nd, 3rd?


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11726938*
> COOL, and a heads up, I posted my temps in the 3rd post plus all the pics from the other thread too. I hope it isn't too confusing. Maybe I should put in order of, temps, 1st set of pic, 2nd, 3rd?


yeah, that would work. WOOT officialness rocks!


----------



## wermad

Official


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidibali;11700572*
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_Hot_Item.html
> 
> 14 in stock


That is the RS kit, not the RX kit.

I can say the RS360 gives amazing temps though.


----------



## B16T33

Any suggestions on mounting location for a RS240 kit push/pull setup in an Antec 1200? I would say on the outside of the rear exhaust with fans mounted on the inside of the case and on the opposite side of the radiator.

EX: <≈≈≈fan|radiator|case|fan≈≈≈<

I'm not worried as much about appearance as I am efficiency


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B16T33;11730431*
> Any suggestions on mounting location for a RS240 kit push/pull setup in an Antec 1200? I would say on the outside of the rear exhaust with fans mounted on the inside of the case and on the opposite side of the radiator.
> 
> EX: <≈≈≈fan|radiator|case|fan≈≈≈<
> 
> I'm not worried as much about appearance as I am efficiency


Front inside or top inside


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B16T33;11730431*
> Any suggestions on mounting location for a RS240 kit push/pull setup in an Antec 1200? I would say on the outside of the rear exhaust with fans mounted on the inside of the case and on the opposite side of the radiator.
> 
> EX: <≈≈≈fan|radiator|case|fan≈≈≈<
> 
> I'm not worried as much about appearance as I am efficiency


If you're not using all the HDD bays, front of the case. Else, either inside or outside the rear exhaust. Whether it's inside or outside really won't make that much of a difference because, if you have it outside, any push fans will still be drawing air from the inside of the case via the rear-exhaust. So I'd go with inside on the rear exhaust.


----------



## B16T33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11730576*
> If you're not using all the HDD bays, front of the case. Else, either inside or outside the rear exhaust. Whether it's inside or outside really won't make that much of a difference because, if you have it outside, any push fans will still be drawing air from the inside of the case via the rear-exhaust. So I'd go with inside on the rear exhaust.


For the front mounting option, would you exhaust out the front then? It would seem silly to blow warm/hot air into your case

BTW thanks for the help


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B16T33;11730652*
> For the front mounting option, would you exhaust out the front then? It would seem silly to blow warm/hot air into your case
> 
> BTW thanks for the help


No, it would be an intake. It seems silly to push hot air in, yes, but remember, you're cooling with water now - the water needs the cold air from outside.
If you've got other stuff like the GPU which isn't watercooled, it can suffocate that a little, but that's what the side intake on the case door is for.


----------



## B16T33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11730782*
> No, it would be an intake. It seems silly to push hot air in, yes, but remember, you're cooling with water now - the water needs the cold air from outside.
> If you've got other stuff like the GPU which isn't watercooled, it can suffocate that a little, but that's what the side intake on the case door is for.


Ahh I see. Thanks for the insight. Do you have any suggestions on a water block for a GTX 460? I was looking around and found this to be my best option but it is quite pricey, keeping in mind that I would need two...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11858/ex-blc-818/EK_GeForce_460_GTX_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FC460_GTX_-_Acetal_Nickel_Hot_Item.html?tl=g30c87s143


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Hey one ? i flushed my rad out with dissiled water and it was leaking at the inlet and outlet but i was only using the plastic covers as i have no barbs yet they dont have any seals on them so i figure it would be normal for them to not hold water.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11731114*
> Hey one ? i flushed my rad out with dissiled water and it was leaking at the inlet and outlet but i was only using the plastic covers as i have no barbs yet they dont have any seals on them so i figure it would be normal for them to not hold water.


correct, the barbs have the seals to keep them water tight.


----------



## wermad

i had very little slag when I flushed my rx360


----------



## Bal3Wolf

ok then my rad is flushed out now the rev is ready to have the pump installed already put the silver coil in the rev. So now im waiting on my last 2 shipments screws to fix my rad to top of case and the pump/gpu block and barbs i probly get to put it together friday. Lol im gonna be scared when i have to take the pump apart and put it in my rev hope not to get anything wrong and fry the pump or cause leaks.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B16T33;11730934*
> Ahh I see. Thanks for the insight. Do you have any suggestions on a water block for a GTX 460? I was looking around and found this to be my best option but it is quite pricey, keeping in mind that I would need two...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11858/ex-blc-818/EK_GeForce_460_GTX_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FC460_GTX_-_Acetal_Nickel_Hot_Item.html?tl=g30c87s143


No problem.
The EK waterblock is the only one I know of to be honest, I'm getting the same one for my 470.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Looking around ek blocks seem to be the best for all type of cards.


----------



## wermad

EK blocks







, yeah, Im a fanboy


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


No problem. 
The EK waterblock is the only one I know of to be honest, I'm getting the same one for my 470.


Koolance make some too.
GTX 460
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...roduct_id=1063









GTX 470
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...roduct_id=1016


----------



## B16T33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Koolance make some too.
GTX 460
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...roduct_id=1063









GTX 470
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...roduct_id=1016










Oooo nice








I'll have to search around for some benchmark comparisons


----------



## wermad

tbh, the gtx 460 runs a lot cooler than the gtx 465/470/480 and adding water may not yield dramatic improvements in temps (unless you have crappy air flow to it). for example, my stock reference gtx 470 would kit 70-91Â°c at load, while under water they max out around 55c. what are your temps when you have your gtx 460 at load?


----------



## Jonesey I7

These pumps aren't suppose to be ABSOLUTELY silent are they? Mine makes the slightest "fish tank" sound, that you can clearly hear if you put your ear next to the machine. Should I send it back and get another, or is a tiny bit of noise expected.


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


These pumps aren't suppose to be ABSOLUTELY silent are they? Mine makes the slightest "fish tank" sound, that you can clearly hear if you put your ear next to the machine. Should I send it back and get another, or is a tiny bit of noise expected.


I would expect bubbly sounds for awhile to get all the air pockets completely out of the system depending on how long this is since you installed it? I might be wrong but going into building my own it's an expectation I have.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B16T33*


Any suggestions on mounting location for a RS240 kit push/pull setup in an Antec 1200? I would say on the outside of the rear exhaust with fans mounted on the inside of the case and on the opposite side of the radiator.

EX: <≈≈≈fan|radiator|case|fan≈≈≈<

I'm not worried as much about appearance as I am efficiency


So it would be for example 3 fans on the outside of the case pushing air in, then the case, then the radiator, followed by fans pulling the air in huh.

I appreciate the simple diagram to explain it. I'll see if I have enough room to do that on mine though I'll be experimenting with custom case feet height for some time. Though I think 6" will be the max I go if I can keep the case feeling secure & level.


----------



## wermad

mine does it too, its lack of vibration dampening material does not help much, though on a fan controller and lower voltage its uber silent.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*   These pumps aren't suppose to be ABSOLUTELY silent are they? Mine makes the slightest "fish tank" sound, that you can clearly hear if you put your ear next to the machine. Should I send it back and get another, or is a tiny bit of noise expected.  
I did get one that made a sound like HDD's and XSPC replaced it. Here is videos of the 2 pumps. I know its 2 different cases but the old pump sounded the same in both.

Old pump
  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIN9BC-pIh4


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


I did get one that made a sound like HDD's and XSPC replaced it. Here is videos of the 2 pumps. I know its 2 different cases but the old pump sounded the same in both.

Old pump
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIN9BC-pIh4

New pump
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VixuxaOLHBs


So I can't really tell, does the new one still make A LITTLE noise or is it completely silent>?


----------



## GoodInk

It just makes a hum noise.


----------



## wermad

its similar to a low burble+hum from the pump itself, my case fans drown it out or just switch to 7v and its dead quite.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

A little noise is probly going to come from all pumps.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


A little noise is probly going to come from all pumps.


yup


----------



## B16T33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


tbh, the gtx 460 runs a lot cooler than the gtx 465/470/480 and adding water may not yield dramatic improvements in temps (unless you have crappy air flow to it). for example, my stock reference gtx 470 would kit 70-91Â°c at load, while under water they max out around 55c. what are your temps when you have your gtx 460 at load?


I completely understand, yes. I just always have loved the look of a big loop with cpu and gpu being water cooled. Its very sexy IMO. The other reason why I would like to water cool the cards is to cut down the heat in the case so I could throw the radiator on the rear exhaust and do a window mod without worrying about losing the side intake fan.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/75...tml?tl=g42c353

And heres a smaller version installed...
(Picture by Monkey92)


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B16T33*


I completely understand, yes. I just always have loved the look of a big loop with cpu and gpu being water cooled. Its very sexy IMO. The other reason why I would like to water cool the cards is to cut down the heat in the case so I could throw the radiator on the rear exhaust and do a window mod without worrying about losing the side intake fan.


if you can afford it, go for it


----------



## B16T33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *urdeath007*


So it would be for example 3 fans on the outside of the case pushing air in, then the case, then the radiator, followed by fans pulling the air in huh.

I appreciate the simple diagram to explain it. I'll see if I have enough room to do that on mine though I'll be experimenting with custom case feet height for some time. Though I think 6" will be the max I go if I can keep the case feeling secure & level.


For a triple 120 radiator mounted in the front of the case, yes. The exact order of it is not completely crucial as long as you have fans on either side of the radiator all blowing in one direction and the radiator mounted securely lol.

What kind of 6" case feet are you looking at? links?


----------



## jam3s

I'm grabbing the XSPC Rasa RS360 kit on christmas day









I'll be proud to join the club

EDIT: I'm ordering from Dazmode.com

Any difference in the kit vs the one at jabtech/frozencpu?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

should be exact same kit tho dazmode is alot higher then frozen cpu but they are a canada company right.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11734152*
> should be exact same kit tho dazmode is alot higher then frozen cpu but they are a canada company right.


yeah they are









If i ordered from jabtech or frozencpu then I'd have to pay customs fees, not worth it IMHO.

The RS360 kit is $162 (IIRC).

I spoke to Daz and he said they have the RX360 but it is basically double the price of the RS360 RAD.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Crazy he charges double for the rx when on jabtech and frozen cpu thier only about 40-60 more for rx ones.


----------



## spoolindsm127

SVC (Silicon Valley Compucycle)

http://www.svc.com/r750rs240.html

Sale Price $124.99

In case you're ordering parts from there you can save on shipping.

mbudden I'm sure you'll add this to the first page


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11734216*
> Crazy he charges double for the rx when on jabtech and frozen cpu thier only about 40-60 more for rx ones.


actually he said 40 dollars more I just got his response.

I think 40 dollars is worth it IMO.

also instead of the kit fans I'm gonna order high speed yates.

Should I do push pull or just push or just pull?

Jam3s


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I dont thk you will have room to do push pull the rx360 is 59mm wide from top of case to bottom and with 1 25m fan thats going to be 84mm.


----------



## B16T33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11733484*
> if you can afford it, go for it


I'm thinking about it. I have like a $300-$400 budget and I don't know what to get. My rig that is being put together in 4 days is in my sig. Any ideas?


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11734245*
> I dont thk you will have room to do push pull the rx360 is 59mm wide from top of case to bottom and with 1 25m fan thats going to be 84mm.


oh. will it fit on the inside of my HAF though? like the top?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i dont own a haf case but i got a modded rocketfish and i just have enugh to do the rx360 and push fans my case is 24 inches tall.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11734313*
> i dont own a haf case but i got a modded rocketfish and i just have enugh to do the rx360 and push fans my case is 24 inches tall.


ok so i'll order 3 then. just in case. Wouldn't want to order 6 for push/pull if it won't fit.

Can anyone with a haf chime in? Could a HAF932 fit an RX360 and 6 fans in push/pull?


----------



## AMOCO

360 rad fits,here is mine:


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;11734374*
> 360 rad fits,here is mine:


scratch that.

That's an RS360, I want to do push/pull with an *RX*360


----------



## AMOCO

push/pull,2 fans on top and 3 mounted to the bottom,i need to get another fan.


----------



## wermad

the 932 can fit push/pull on any 360, I would know, I had one







. w/ an rx360, itll be a tight squeeze but it will make it


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11734548*
> the 932 can fit push/pull on any 360, I would know, I had one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . w/ an rx360, itll be a tight squeeze but it will make it


oh f yes. that's what I wanted to hear


----------



## killeraxemannic

quick question guys.... will the rasa 240 outperform the silver arrow at 4.0 ghz on my sig rig?


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic;11734879*
> quick question guys.... will the rasa 240 outperform the silver arrow at 4.0 ghz on my sig rig?


well man, you're talkign switching to a watercooler which offers alot of positives, versus an air cooler which is highly limited, and cannot be really upgraded minus fans or a lapjob.. I'd say it would, but it also depends on where you position the components, how much air you're getting through the radiator, what kind of air your'e getting through the radiator, etc etc. Alot of different items can influence how it performs, but overall I'd say yes it will outperform on cooling versus the silver arrow


----------



## kingofyo1

Ok here's a question for watercooling experts or just anyone with some knowledge of these sorts of things.. As some of you know, I've got my rad positioned up top, with my fans pushing air through the radiator, as well as the top 230s pulling out the top. Would I benefit more from switching the 230mm fans up top to push air in, and the 3 120mm fans to pull that same air through the radiator instead of having the warm case air go through the radiator? I know it'll be cooler on the radiator, but at the same time, I'll have alot more air going into my case, and it'll definitely be a positive pressure because unless i go into the side window and switch those 230s to pushing air out, they are pulling more air into the case. I'm kinda confused on the whole thing, but I know with as much as im doing folding, that cpu is getting a bit hotter than it was when the radiator was outside of the case. Thanks in advance for everyone who actually read through this paragraph lol


----------



## fr0st.

I wouldn't trust plastic fans to hold up an RX360 full of water :3
I'm just gonna go with push, MAYBE push pull if the fans that come with the kit are any good.

Anyone know the specs of the fans?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11735258*
> I wouldn't trust plastic fans to hold up an RX360 full of water :3
> I'm just gonna go with push, MAYBE push pull if the fans that come with the kit are any good.
> 
> Anyone know the specs of the fans?


Well the fans dont hold it up usualy the screws go thru the fans and attach to the rad atleast thats what i can do with my rx360 im not exacty sure what he was saying he wanted to do tho.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11735332*
> Well the fans dont hold it up usualy the screws go thru the fans and attach to the rad atleast thats what i can do with my rx360 im not exacty sure what he was saying he wanted to do tho.


i believe the fans that come with the kit are 1700 rpm 120mm Fans


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea they are but their still setup same way im just not sure exacty what king is asking if you use the 120s for pull you can run the screws thru the top of your case and then they go thru the fans and into the rad holes.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Hey guys/gals, I'm looking at getting the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit as soon as my boss (aka the wife) approves it







. I've just a got a question about the radiator & res/pump mounting.

I'm familiar with different ways getting the air out of the coolant system in a car, ie create a high point above the radiator and "burp" it (over simplified, I know). My idea is to install the kit in my HAF 932 case with the rad top mounted and the res/pump mounted in the lower two 5.25" bays. I plan on doing the final mounting of the radiator after I have "burped" the air out by making the radiator the low point and the res/pump the high point (above the cpu), will this cause any issues? Oh before I forget, this is all going in my sig rig that you can see below.

Thanks for all the help and I hope to be joining your group soon.

P.S. - I've put the shopping list below, short as it is. Since I live in Arizona and have had HUGE issues with not only dust but cat hair (my son's cat) recently, I've added the filter set as well.

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit
IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip
DEMCiflex Cooler Master HAF 932 Magnetic Dust / Fan Filter Set - 4 Piece


----------



## wermad

bleeding the air is simple just run your pump w/ the fillport on the res opened (don't top off the res yet). it bleeds pretty quick. though, a bit of air will still be there, that'll make its way out of the loop over time, just keep on eye on it, occasionally over the next few days open the res fill port and the last bit of air will bleed. I've had no trouble bleeding it from my fully installed setup. good luck


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11735666*
> yea they are but their still setup same way im just not sure exacty what king is asking if you use the 120s for pull you can run the screws thru the top of your case and then they go thru the fans and into the rad holes.


Oh, cool cool. Do those screws come with the kit?
It's hard do find something that doesn't come with the kit besides coolant :/


----------



## LoneWolf3574

@wermad - So the res being lower than the rad won't be a problem? That's a relief.

EDIT: Thank's for the tip on how to properly bleed the air out. Now just to get final approval from the wife and I'll be on my way to cooling with water


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11736354*
> Oh, cool cool. Do those screws come with the kit?
> It's hard do find something that doesn't come with the kit besides coolant :/


They should sence you sorta need them to hang the rad i got long screws and short with my rx360 rad for however i needed to use it and it uses 6/32 which are basic case screws im not sure about the rs240 and rs360 tho screw size.


----------



## Archer S

Hm im thinking of getting the 240 kit, but i dont have room for it in my case. Does anyone know if its possible to buy the kit with a different pup/res. or without a pump/res?

I don't want to have it external either


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11736369*
> So the res being lower than the rad won't be a problem? That's a relief.


no, eventually it will makes it way out. good tip is to tap your tubes to cause turbulence to aid bleeding the air.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you cant buy the kit without any of the parts sence its a kit but if you wanted to you could buy a differt pump and sell the one the kit comes with tho you dont have enugh rep to sell on ocn.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archer S;11736385*
> Hm im thinking of getting the 240 kit, but i dont have room for it in my case. Does anyone know if its possible to buy the kit with a different pup/res. or without a pump/res?
> 
> I don't want to have it external either


The rasa kits are pieced together from parts you can buy separately. The kit has everything you need to get started. If you don't want the pump, just buy everything separately, though its probable you'll end up paying more than a kit.


----------



## Archer S

yeah if i buy the kit i cant fit the res anywhere, and if i buy parts separately it ends up costing me too much


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archer S;11736439*
> yeah if i buy the kit i cant fit the res anywhere, and if i buy parts separately it ends up costing me too much


you dont have any open 5 1/2 drive bays in your case you only need 2 you have a 902 same as antec 900 basicly what you could do is take 1 of the fan bays out it takes up 3 then you could put the 2 bay rev in that spot and you take the mesh thing off it to cover up the extra hole. Im not sure where you would fit the rad tho the antec aint a real water cool friendly case for it internaly.


----------



## B16T33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11734922*
> Ok here's a question for watercooling experts or just anyone with some knowledge of these sorts of things.. As some of you know, I've got my rad positioned up top, with my fans pushing air through the radiator, as well as the top 230s pulling out the top. Would I benefit more from switching the 230mm fans up top to push air in, and the 3 120mm fans to pull that same air through the radiator instead of having the warm case air go through the radiator? I know it'll be cooler on the radiator, but at the same time, I'll have alot more air going into my case, and it'll definitely be a positive pressure because unless i go into the side window and switch those 230s to pushing air out, they are pulling more air into the case. I'm kinda confused on the whole thing, but I know with as much as im doing folding, that cpu is getting a bit hotter than it was when the radiator was outside of the case. Thanks in advance for everyone who actually read through this paragraph lol


Yes, you would benefit from that if you also switched the side panel fans as well. And the temps on your gpu should stay relatively the same due to the fact that most of its heat is being sucked away from it and out the side panel. Though the new setup will be pushing warm air into your case, the side fans drawing most to all of the graphics card's hot exhaust out the side should even it out. I see more positives doing this than negatives.

The whole positive and negative case pressure debate has being rolling on for a very long time and everyone kinda has their own opinion on it. There is a bit science behind it though most either do not comprehend it or do not take the time to think about it.


----------



## kingofyo1

b16, i seriously appreciate you taking the time to read my post. I ended up switching all 4 230s around, top 2 are on intake, side 2 are on exhaust(surprisingly easy to switch those on my case ^^) also put a 120 that i had pulling hot air off the back of my mobo cpu slot to exhaust on interior of case. I'm seeing temps a bit cooler, around 3-4c actually on load(folding smp 6 bigadv)


----------



## man00

I gave frozen cpu a call, ask about this setup in Antec 1200 they said it was a no go without some serious mods. Take it for what its worth..just passing that to you guys


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



you dont have any open 5 1/2 drive bays in your case you only need 2 you have a 902 same as antec 900 basicly what you could do is take 1 of the fan bays out it takes up 3 then you could put the 2 bay rev in that spot and you take the mesh thing off it to cover up the extra hole. Im not sure where you would fit the rad tho the antec aint a real water cool friendly case for it internaly.


Well i wanted to remove the drive bays and mount the rad vertically in there but then there is no room for the dual bay reservoir. if it was single bay it would fit perfect.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *man00*


I gave frozen cpu a call, ask about this setup in Antec 1200 they said it was a no go without some serious mods. Take it for what its worth..just passing that to you guys


Here's what I'm doing:

- Antec 900 
Dual bay res up top, RS240 mounted vertically below it as an intake.
You know that little half-bay piece of plastic with the Antec logo on it? I cut that off. I have a fan controller in that space, the RS240 above it and the dual bay res right up top. 
That just about fits. The hard drives are to be mounted on Nexus Doubletwin hard drive mounts which I've modified a bit (cut the front off so it's not hitting the rad). 
And that's in an Antec 900. A RS240 will fit without any mods in an Antec 1200. You will need a rad stand though - something like this: http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/WC...Black_413.html


----------



## DiNet

Hello,
What's different between RS and RX?
Planning on 360 kit, will it "hold" my cpu clocked at 4ghz and gtx470 clocked at 800 core @ 1.087v?
Anyone got any test results?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DiNet*


Hello,
What's different between RS and RX?
Planning on 360 kit, will it "hold" my cpu clocked at 4ghz and gtx470 clocked at 800 core @ 1.087v?
Anyone got any test results?










The RX is thicker and a higher performing rad depending on your setup. Your case can accommodate either, including either w/ push/pull fans.

Again, if your planning to add additional blocks (ie such fermi gpu(s) and blocks) then go for the RX, if your only going w/ a cpu and maybe one gpu block,, the RS360 will do the job quite well.

Im running a total of five blocks and this is pushing the performance envelope of the RX360.


----------



## DiNet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


The RX is thicker and a higher performing rad depending on your setup. Your case can accommodate either, including either w/ push/pull fans.

Again, if your planning to add additional blocks (ie such fermi gpu(s) and blocks) then go for the RX, if your only going w/ a cpu and maybe one gpu block,, the RS360 will do the job quite well.

Im running a total of five blocks and this is pushing the performance envelope of the RX360.


I'll have 2nd gtx in near future. CPU and 2 gpu's in loop.

What temps do you get on load? I don't want to go with water just because gpus tbh. With shipping i'll be over 300$ for rasa kit. And need also some coolant







So if cpu will stay at same temps as with d-14 i'd rather ditch 470 and get 570


----------



## wermad

If your planning to get two gtx 470 on water then go w/ the rx360 kit. though that would be the most, imo, the pump will handle. Im still running the x20-750 but Im upgrading soon to another pump to handle better my setup.

my temps w/ two fermis was 50-55Â°c, w/ three its 55-58Â°c running vantage.


----------



## DiNet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


If your planning to get two gtx 470 on water then go w/ the rx360 kit. though that would be the most, imo, the pump will handle. Im still running the x20-750 but Im upgrading soon to another pump to handle better my setup.

my temps w/ two fermis was 50-55Â°c, w/ three its 55-58Â°c running vantage.


Load temps on CPU?


----------



## wermad

ibt loads 56-60c w/ ht off oc to 4.2


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


ibt loads 56-60c w/ ht off oc to 4.2


that's pretty stellar, wermad.

I'm getting the RX360 kit as well. I can't wait


----------



## Bal3Wolf

well i got everything but the screws i need and i had a issue not sure if its going to be big or small with my gpu block the aceltel side wouldnt hold the caps i had to put a barb on that side but i tried to leak test and i didnt see any leaks.


----------



## wermad

which asus 5870 model do you have? did you use the cooling configurator?


----------



## B16T33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


b16, i seriously appreciate you taking the time to read my post. I ended up switching all 4 230s around, top 2 are on intake, side 2 are on exhaust(surprisingly easy to switch those on my case ^^) also put a 120 that i had pulling hot air off the back of my mobo cpu slot to exhaust on interior of case. I'm seeing temps a bit cooler, around 3-4c actually on load(folding smp 6 bigadv)


No problem man, glad I could help. Nice to hear everything worked out.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


which asus 5870 model do you have? did you use the cooling configurator?


No i ddint use that i got a refernce model v1 i got the v1 ek block this is the block i got tho. I also sent ek a support ticket telling them my problem and if it would be ok to run it the way i have it now.


----------



## mbudden

I want some pics


----------



## jam3s

just pulled the trigger on a XPSC RASA 750 RX360 Kit from dazmode.com.

What a great guy to deal with, he let me pay through electronic money transfer and he's shipping out tomorrow









I also ordered 6 yate loons D12SH-12 High Speeds, some silver kill coil, and some feser uv dye (green).

I can't wait to get it.

Can I has a cookie?

I mean can I join the club?









Jam3s


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11747356*
> feser uv dye (green).


i contacted xspc and they told me that feser uv active dye will void your warranty.just to let you know.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;11747396*
> i contacted xspc and they told me that feser uv active dye will void your warranty.just to let you know.


damn, what a waste of 5 bucks lol

is it really that bad?


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11742037*
> that's pretty stellar, wermad.
> 
> I'm getting the RX360 kit as well. I can't wait


It's even more stellar in the fact he has 3x400 series graphics cards in his loop too


----------



## valtopps

anybody want to sell there XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25” Bay Reservoir Pump send me a pm


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11747411*
> damn, what a waste of 5 bucks lol
> 
> is it really that bad?


they said it can crack the acrylic and make it leak,and also clog everything up.so i'm using colored tubing instead of dye.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11747422*
> It's even more stellar in the fact he has 3x400 series graphics cards in his loop too


hahahah kudos to wermad.









I too plan to WC my card, but gotta wait til my birthday








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;11747438*
> they said it can crack the acrylic and make it leak,and also clog everything up.so i'm using colored tubing instead of dye.


Wow. The only reason I like the dye is not for looks, but for leak testing purposes.

Guess I won't use it now.


----------



## AMOCO

next month i'm getting this for my loop:http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=965

i don't like my NB and SB temps,and i even replace the TIM when i installed my WC kit.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;11747486*
> next month i'm getting this for my loop:http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=965
> 
> i don't like my NB and SB temps,and i even replace the TIM when i installed my WC kit.


awesome









I only want to do CPU + GPU.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11747356*
> just pulled the trigger on a XPSC RASA 750 RX360 Kit from dazmode.com.


Are they from the US? Just wanting to know so I can add it to the OP.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11747782*
> Are they from the US? Just wanting to know so I can add it to the OP.


from good ol' canada.

They sell the RS120/240/360 and the RX360


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11747789*
> from good ol' canada.
> 
> They sell the RS120/240/360 and the RX360


I noticed. I had thought they were from Canada. I had seen somewhere on the page Canada, but couldn't find it in their "Contact" page.








I'll be adding them to the OP.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11747801*
> I noticed. I had thought they were from Canada. I had seen somewhere on the page Canada, but couldn't find it in their "Contact" page.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be adding them to the OP.


Wicked. I'll post back when I get my shipment on the 30th with the RX360 kit.

Should be funnnnnnnnnn.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11747816*
> Wicked. I'll post back when I get my shipment on the 30th with the RX360 kit.
> 
> Should be funnnnnnnnnn.










and don't forget to post pics.

Oh & updated the OP to add a place to buy in Canada


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11747862*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and don't forget to post pics.
> 
> Oh & updated the OP to add a place to buy in Canada


I will definitely post pics.

Should be real interesting to do 6 fans in push pull with how thick the RX360 is.

I will be mounting it on the top of my cooler master haf 932.

Thanks for updating OP. I was more than thrilled that I got a chance to buy watercooling in canada. Should be a good kit. Pump looks sweet.

AFAIK, they're the same kits as jabtech and frozencpu uses


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11747890*
> I will definitely post pics.
> 
> Should be real interesting to do 6 fans in push pull with how thick the RX360 is.
> 
> I will be mounting it on the top of my cooler master haf 932.
> 
> Thanks for updating OP. I was more than thrilled that I got a chance to buy watercooling in canada. Should be a good kit. Pump looks sweet.
> 
> AFAIK, they're the same kits as jabtech and frozencpu uses


Can't wait. I've been eye balling a HAF 932/922 case. Just didn't know how it would work with a rad inside. So I'll be on the look out







. I also added you into the OP.

Another thing for anyone in the thread, If there is anything I missed in the OP. Feel free to shoot me a PM or just comment and let me know. Sometimes I can forget some things.

OH! Also. If anyone wants to be so kind.







Take before and after temps just so everyone can get a feel for what it'd be like on their rig.


----------



## jam3s

Thanks mate









The HAF easily fit an MCR320QP, and should have no problems with the RS360/RX360.

The RX360 is just thicker, so it makes it hard to do push/pull, but I will be doing that









The case itself is massive though lol, so watch out


----------



## LoneWolf3574

HOLY COW!!! The wife didn't even ask how much I dropped on the kit as a whole, she just said yes. I ordered the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit earlier today (this morning I think, I work nights so it gets confusing sometimes) ETA is Dec. 27, 2010 via FedEX and after S&H it comes in at just under $221. I got the following thinking better to be safe than sorry (and no green dye, lol) -

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit
Feser Aqua Non Conductive Ultra Pure Water - 1000 ml
Feser Base Corrosion Blocker - 50ml
IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip
DEMCiflex Cooler Master HAF 932 Magnetic Dust / Fan Filter Set - 4 Piece

Since I've got an AMD setup, I'm not sure how comfortable I am with the idea of not having a backer plate behind the motherboard. I'm already planning on modding the old plate if I need to and/or replacing the long screws with another set, that will give me the same length to work with as the originals in order to keep the backer plate.

And so my first true step into water cooling begins





















:wheee:.


----------



## B16T33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11748193*
> And so my first true step into water cooling begins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :wheee:.


Same here:wave2: but on the 25th


----------



## Bal3Wolf

OK i got my water installed pretty good temps on my video card not so good on cpu 71c on linx at 4.2ghz with 1.33 vcore but i still got bubbles trying to get them all out. And i had the inlet and outlet setup wrong at first on my block so i had to fix that and it waset easy getting it back mounted with all the hoses in the case so the paste is probly all screwed up. I cant get the pump to make the wierd noise as much from shakinh my case so i thk im starting to get the bubbles out but i do need to try to fix the paste on the cpu block somehow. The really cold temps on the gpu tell me its probly not bubles raising the cpu temp at 1000mhz 1.162 im hititng like 40c on the video card and 61 on the vrms.


----------



## mbudden

Your contact on the CPU might be off or something. Because it shouldn't be that high. I'd say remount it and see if you get better. I luckily got it right my first try lol. So I'm happy for that.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea i just did lol didnt get much better but its a major pain to try to get it on perfect with the rad and stuff in the case. I did manage to run push pull on the rx360 by cm lol literaly i dont have 1cm or i cant take my ram out. Right now at 4.2ghz 1.33 vcore running ibt on max with 8 threads looks like im getting under 70c. Heres photos of my setup also wiring could be better i am tired lol so thats all it gets tonight.


----------



## fr0st.

Bal3Wolf, you could easily switch the tube coming out from the bottom of your graphics card block to coming out of the top next to the in tube, it would save some tubing.

All the same, nice rig.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I cant do that cause for some reason the cap wont thread onto the bottom one so i have to use a barb.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I cant do that cause for some reason the cap wont thread onto the bottom one so i have to use a barb.


I know mine came with spacers, it's a V2 though.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


I will definitely post pics.

Should be real interesting to do 6 fans in push pull with how thick the RX360 is.

I will be mounting it on the top of my cooler master haf 932.

Thanks for updating OP. I was more than thrilled that I got a chance to buy watercooling in canada. Should be a good kit. Pump looks sweet.

AFAIK, they're the same kits as jabtech and frozencpu uses










Please post pics, I'm looking at that case right now and wanting to put in a RX360 too.


----------



## valtopps

anybody want to sell there XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25” Bay Reservoir Pump send me a pm


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *valtopps*


anybody want to sell there XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25â€ Bay Reservoir Pump send me a pm


I think wermad is going to be upgrading his pump or might of already and might be selling his x20 750 might ask him.


----------



## tx-jose

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


i contacted xspc and they told me that feser uv active dye will void your warranty.just to let you know.


what is this warranty thing you speak of??? lol

nice setups guys!! Amazing what a budget liquid cooling system can do!!!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tx-jose*


what is this warranty thing you speak of??? lol

nice setups guys!! Amazing what a budget liquid cooling system can do!!!!


Probly the warranty on the block and res the dyes gunk up the block and stain the res and tubbing.


----------



## valtopps

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I think wermad is going to be upgrading his pump or might of already and might be selling his x20 750 might ask him.


thanks bud i sent him a pm


----------



## Jonesey I7

Just noticed this and am EXTREMELY puzzled.... If ek will void a warranty for dye, why the hell do they include uv fluid in their kit!!??!?!?!

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12367/ex-wat-163/Ek_H30_Supreme_HF_240_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_EK-KIT_H3O_-_Supreme_HF_240.html


----------



## wermad

its pt nuke /biocides that their "investigating", which is all a bunch of b.s. from them. Also, if they plan on including dyes in their void warranty criteria, they need to take down their own dyes and pics of loops with dyes. Not a smart move by ek.

Jab-tech is out of stock on the res I wanted to get, damn, gonna have to wait a bit longer


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose;11752913*
> what is this warranty thing you speak of??? lol
> 
> nice setups guys!! Amazing what a budget liquid cooling system can do!!!!


I would think they have at least a 1 year warranty on there parts.Say for example:My X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir Pump takes a crap 6 months from now & I have to RMA it & I had used dye in it(Which they could see cause of residue).They won't replace it.


----------



## mbudden

I didn't know EK made a kit.... Looks like that'll be for if I decide to make another rig


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;11754838*
> I would think they have at least a 1 year warranty on there parts.Say for example:My X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir Pump takes a crap 6 months from now & I have to RMA it & I had used dye in it(Which they could see cause of residue).They won't replace it.


i really hope thats not the case









I want to use green dye lol


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11755414*
> i really hope thats not the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to use green dye lol


Use something like this,That won't void the warranty:http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0245944


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;11755448*
> Use something like this,That won't void the warranty:http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0245944


ok haha thanks amoco


----------



## mrfajita

I got mine finally. It was a bit of pain to install in a first generation CM690, and I had to mod the top a little, but it fits! I have two Cooler Master fans that came with my V6GT in pull on the radiator, 25c idle and 55c IBT. The V6GT with the same fans gave me 32 or 33 degrees idle and 72c IBT.
Add me to the OP.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I wouldnt use any dyes to be on the safe side just use colored tubing if you want that and put the led in the bay res you can tell if its flowing by watching that.


----------



## AMOCO

Updated pictures:


















I put one of these in it:









Still have more work to go.It will get there.


----------



## mrfajita

A question about the block, how many turns should the nuts be twisted after the bolts are tightened all the way down? I don't want to kill my socket with too much mounting pressure. I turned the nuts down six turns


----------



## spoolindsm127

^
Looking good







I actually like the subtlety of the lights better









Are you running clamps on your hoses?

I've been reading about everyone saying how tight the hoses fit due to the barbs being 1/2" and the hose being 7/16".

Will I be able to get away without using hose clamps? It looks a lot cleaner that way plus if the hose does fit as tight as everyone is describing then I don't think the clamps are of any use. Any ideas?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11756031*
> I wouldnt use any dyes to be on the safe side just use colored tubing if you want that and put the led in the bay res you can tell if its flowing by watching that.


As much as we preach this, we really can't make convince all of 'em. So let 'em be...some will be back later with concerns about clogged loops, stains, etc, and will be here to help non the less


----------



## kingofyo1

so true, wermad.. I've given up on the preach because people still refuse to listen.. They'll see, then we can be the ones to say, "I toldja so." lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11756161*
> As much as we preach this, we really can't make convince all of 'em. So let 'em be...some will be back later with concerns about clogged loops, stains, etc, and will be here to help non the less


Yep atleast our loops will be clean and we dont have to take our blocks apart and replace tubing cause their stained. And wermad what temps do you get a 4200 with ht on i dont think im getting my rasa block on good cause im right at 70c in ibt at 4200 1.33 vcore with ht on.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11756223*
> Yep atleast our loops will be clean and we dont have to take our blocks apart and replace tubing cause their stained. And wermad what temps do you get a 4200 with ht on i dont think im getting my rasa block on good cause im right at 70c in ibt at 4200 1.33 vcore with ht on.


i haven't had the time to turn on ht. Im going to try this weekend, maybe oc to 4.0 w/ ht on and a bit more voltage. currently, it idles 36°c and loads 60°c


----------



## Bal3Wolf

And do you know if when you shake your case and the pump does not stir up the water anymore if that means the air is out of the loop for most part ?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;11756136*
> ^
> Looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually like the subtlety of the lights better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you running clamps on your hoses?
> 
> I've been reading about everyone saying how tight the hoses fit due to the barbs being 1/2" and the hose being 7/16".
> 
> Will I be able to get away without using hose clamps? It looks a lot cleaner that way plus if the hose does fit as tight as everyone is describing then I don't think the clamps are of any use. Any ideas?


Thank you,And yes I'm using the clamps that came with the kit.Well I bought this tubing :









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8278/ex-tub-435/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s809

And it is better than the tubing that came with the kit,Also the tubing over the barbs are tight fit.But I would still use some sort of clamps.


----------



## wermad

just to let you know, that looks pinkish under uv and more orange red than red under regular white light. I had that for my last build. uv stuff relly does not turn out to be what its said to be







, I don't use uv stuff anymore.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well after about 10 remounts of the block i cant seem to get them under 72c at 4.2ghz with ht on with 1.33 vcore. The gpu stays cold tho under 40c in furmark on gpu under 48c on the shader amd memory and under 60c on the vrms at 1000mhz.


----------



## wermad

idle?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

my idles are in high 30s to 40s on cpu this cpu never idles low even on air with super cold temps. I turned my rear fan back around to pull air out and i droped 3-5c and noticed the gpu when under 100% load adds about 5c to the cpu temp. Still miles ahead of air cooling im folding at 50c and running boinc same time at under 40c at 1000mhz on the gpu. On air my cpu hit 66-69c and gpu was always at 60c and vrms same.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11757479*
> Well after about 10 remounts of the block i cant seem to get them under 72c at 4.2ghz with ht on with 1.33 vcore. The gpu stays cold tho under 40c in furmark on gpu under 48c on the shader amd memory and under 60c on the vrms at 1000mhz.


Are you using that crappy white past that came with the kit?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrfajita;11756127*
> A question about the block, how many turns should the nuts be twisted after the bolts are tightened all the way down? I don't want to kill my socket with too much mounting pressure. I turned the nuts down six turns


I cranked mine all the way down.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11757760*
> Are you using that crappy white past that came with the kit?


No im using ic7 and i tried gelid gc-extreme iv remounted the cpu block about 10 times always same results.


----------



## wermad

im using ceramique


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ya i dont get it with my gpu temps so low the cpu should be much lower id think. No matter what i do the temps seem to be between 68-72c.


----------



## wermad

try turning off ht, do the temps change dramatically?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

about 10c cooler its wierd i fold at a much lower temp but ibt is not that much differt then when i was on air i thk id top out at 80c and 71c on this water.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Bal3Wolf, I'm going to ask a noob/dumb question on your problem so please bear with me, ok?







I noticed when reading the reviews on the RS240 kit, the cpu block inlet and outlet were mark, do you have them piped/tubed correctly? Other than that, and I'm just starting out with WC, all I can think of to suggest is taking apart your block and inspecting it's interior.


----------



## UKGC

Hi Guys,

I thought I would share with you what I have been up to with this kit. Fantastic solution for a novice and even experienced WC nuts







I have been following this thread ever since we got our test kit from WCUK and its nice to know we all share the same opinions.

Anyway, we have a 930 @ 4.2Ghz under a XSPC X20 750 Rasa 240 kit and under full load only hits low 70's.

Full Spec

ASUS SABERTOOTH X58
Intel i7 930 clocked to 4.2Ghz
6GB Corsair XMS3
Nvidia GTX460 1GB
60GB Corsair Force SSD
1TB Seagate Barracuda
Corsair 650TX
Coolermaster Cosmos S with outer Marble paint Job and inner black coat
XSPC X20 750 Rasa 240 Watercooling
Thermochill EC6 UV Blue Coolant
Black Anti kink coils
Black Cable Braiding
Xigmatek Crystal White Fans
All Black screws

and of course the bet bit, pictures!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UKGC*


Hi Guys,

I thought I would share with you what I have been up to with this kit. Fantastic solution for a novice and even experienced WC nuts







I have been following this thread ever since we got our test kit from WCUK and its nice to know we all share the same opinions.

Anyway, we have a 930 @ 4.2Ghz under a XSPC X20 750 Rasa 240 kit and under full load only hits low 70's.

Full Spec

ASUS SABERTOOTH X58
Intel i7 930 clocked to 4.2Ghz
6GB Corsair XMS3
Nvidia GTX460 1GB
60GB Corsair Force SSD
1TB Seagate Barracuda
Corsair 650TX
Coolermaster Cosmos S with outer Marble paint Job and inner black coat
XSPC X20 750 Rasa 240 Watercooling
Thermochill EC6 UV Blue Coolant
Black Anti kink coils
Black Cable Braiding
Xigmatek Crystal White Fans
All Black screws

and of course the bet bit, pictures!


It looks amazing!








I added you to the club & welcome to OCN.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574*


Bal3Wolf, I'm going to ask a noob/dumb question on your problem so please bear with me, ok?







I noticed when reading the reviews on the RS240 kit, the cpu block inlet and outlet were mark, do you have them piped/tubed correctly? Other than that, and I'm just starting out with WC, all I can think of to suggest is taking apart your block and inspecting it's interior.


Ya i got the out on pump going to inlet on cpu block then it goes out to gpu and gpu goes back to rad then rad goes to the res.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Ya i got the out on pump going to inlet on cpu block then it goes out to gpu and gpu goes back to rad then rad goes to the res.


Try putting your rad before your CPU, might reduce your temps by a few degrees.


----------



## wermad

Doors are on, idle temps are holding steady


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Try putting your rad before your CPU, might reduce your temps by a few degrees.


rad is befor the cpu sorta cause it goes rad to res then to cpu.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


rad is befor the cpu sorta cause it goes rad to res then to cpu.


I mean, put it directly before your cpu block, so it goes pump->rad->cpu.....etc.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I thought it was always suppose to be pump/res>rad>cpu>*gpu*>pump/res.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

well everyone i talk to says the order wont matter on temps your going to avg out over time. My 5870 stays cold under 40c gpu on furmark and under 55c on everything else on it.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


well everyone i talk to says the order wont matter on temps your going to avg out over time. My 5870 stays cold under 40c gpu on furmark and under 55c on everything else on it.


Then that i7 is just hot bro!! You said you topped out at 81c before, and now it's 71, which seems right to me. The water shaved 10c off, as to be expected. That's how much it shaved off my setup too.


----------



## wermad

rad placement don't matter, just find the order which uses less tube. block order does matter; the cpu is first, then everything else.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

guess i was just exspecting more lol tho when it comes to folding my temps have droped alot more i was hitting 66-69c and now it stays under 54c.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


rad placement don't matter, just find the order which uses less tube. block order does matter; the cpu is first, then everything else.


really?!?! My loop goes pump/res>rad>gpu>cpu>pump/res, and I couldn't be happier with the temps?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ya i need to maybe redo the loop not yet lol maybe when i got spare cash to order some more tubbing. If my cap for my gpu block woulda worked on the bottom i coulda cut out alot of that extra tubbing. I do have a d5 tho that has alot of head preasure and flow rate.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


really?!?! My loop goes pump/res>rad>gpu>cpu>pump/res, and I couldn't be happier with the temps?


amds don't shoot up that high and factor your ati doesnt produce a lot of heat, so in some cases, maybe such as yours it might vary slightly. but consider my setup, then one would definitely want to put the cpu first, especially since intels will be hotter.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Ya i need to maybe redo the loop not yet lol maybe when i got spare cash to order some more tubbing. If my cap for my gpu block woulda worked on the bottom i coulda cut out alot of that extra tubbing. I do have a d5 tho that has alot of head preasure and flow rate.











Ran 4.0 w/ ht on, 1.35v and IBT avg highest temp for all cores was ~66Â°C.

My gflops weren't that great w/ ht on btw


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol im at 4300 with 1.344 testing and my hottest was 72c im gonna test at 4ghz and see what happens.


----------



## wermad

yeah, the 930 were definitely binned a lot better than the 950. Im back to 4.2 w/ ht off and 1.300v.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

ok at 4ghz ht on 1.352 67 65 65 62 i guess maybe its working right you have more in your loop but if the rad can cool it that shouldn't matter. And going from 4200 to 4300 1.30 at 4.2 to 1.344 only made my temps go up 1c so i guess the blocks working right im getting some as5 from a friend today to to see if that helps.


----------



## mbudden

Updated the OP.
I added the graphic that Lutro0 was so kind to make for us


----------



## kingofyo1

dont forget about setting time of some 200 odd hours with that as5


----------



## Bal3Wolf

its gota be easyer then getting the ic diamond put on the water block right then getting it attached with the tubbing on it lol. More testing as i raise vcore my temps arent really going up much i cant say i could ever run 4322 with 1.37 vcore on air under 85-90c.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Couldn't resist throwing it out there, wish I still had my baby







If I had this kit back then, it would have done 5ghz EASY. That was with air only

4.616ghz 1.36vcore....









4.5ghz 1.34vcore....


----------



## kingofyo1

those things overclock sooo easily! wish i could get over 4.2 without having to bump past 1.5v >.<


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


those things overclock sooo easily! wish i could get over 4.2 without having to bump past 1.5v >.<


Trust me, that was one of the top 10 chips intel ever put out with a 920 badge on it.


----------



## valtopps

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UKGC*


Hi Guys,

I thought I would share with you what I have been up to with this kit. Fantastic solution for a novice and even experienced WC nuts







I have been following this thread ever since we got our test kit from WCUK and its nice to know we all share the same opinions.

Anyway, we have a 930 @ 4.2Ghz under a XSPC X20 750 Rasa 240 kit and under full load only hits low 70's.

Full Spec

ASUS SABERTOOTH X58
Intel i7 930 clocked to 4.2Ghz
6GB Corsair XMS3
Nvidia GTX460 1GB
60GB Corsair Force SSD
1TB Seagate Barracuda
Corsair 650TX
Coolermaster Cosmos S with outer Marble paint Job and inner black coat
XSPC X20 750 Rasa 240 Watercooling
Thermochill EC6 UV Blue Coolant
Black Anti kink coils
Black Cable Braiding
Xigmatek Crystal White Fans
All Black screws

and of course the bet bit, pictures!





























just a beautiful job but why didnt you put the rad the other way , there would be less tubing showing.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Trust me, that was one of the top 10 chips intel ever put out with a 920 badge on it.


And why in the world did you get rid of it?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ok i thk its safe to say i could never get this on air lol water owns.


----------



## k33stone

anyone got a suggestion for quieting down the pump noise? got this system together, love it all, but that humming noise is driving me crazy


----------



## Bal3Wolf

could be the air in your lines still shake the case a every few mins and see if it helps.


----------



## k33stone

ya i didnt spend much time with bleeding the loop


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKGC;11760910*
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I thought I would share with you what I have been up to with this kit. Fantastic solution for a novice and even experienced WC nuts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been following this thread ever since we got our test kit from WCUK and its nice to know we all share the same opinions.
> 
> Anyway, we have a 930 @ 4.2Ghz under a XSPC X20 750 Rasa 240 kit and under full load only hits low 70's.
> 
> Full Spec
> 
> ASUS SABERTOOTH X58
> Intel i7 930 clocked to 4.2Ghz
> 6GB Corsair XMS3
> Nvidia GTX460 1GB
> 60GB Corsair Force SSD
> 1TB Seagate Barracuda
> Corsair 650TX
> Coolermaster Cosmos S with outer Marble paint Job and inner black coat
> XSPC X20 750 Rasa 240 Watercooling
> Thermochill EC6 UV Blue Coolant
> Black Anti kink coils
> Black Cable Braiding
> Xigmatek Crystal White Fans
> All Black screws
> 
> and of course the bet bit, pictures!


I love that paint job


----------



## jam3s

Hey guys, got my RX360 kit.

Just to confirm: we go, PUMP/RES > RX360 > RASA CPU Block > Pump/Res correct?

I will be installing mine over the next few days

Here's a diagram of what I will be doing. I will mount the RAD with the inlet/outlet to the left side of my case to make it easier on me.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11763802*
> Hey guys, got my RX360 kit.
> 
> Just to confirm: we go, PUMP/RES > RX360 > RASA CPU Block > Pump/Res correct?
> 
> I will be installing mine over the next few days
> 
> Here's a diagram of what I will be doing. I will mount the RAD with the inlet/outlet to the left side of my case to make it easier on me.


Loop order doesn't affect temperatures, you can route it however you want too.


----------



## kingofyo1

as long as that bottom hole on the pump is going to the INLET of the cpu block, then the OUTLEt of cpu is going to rad, and then from rad back to the top port of the res, then yes!


----------



## kingofyo1

the radiator doesnt have a flow direction, but the block and the pump do. those are the only 2 things you gotta worry bout


----------



## jam3s

ok thanks. the kit didn't come with any directions so I"m going to assume that the outlet of the pump is the upper hole, and then inlet is the bigger, hole in the centre.

Also I'm assuming the inlet on the cpu block is the one on the left, with the outlet being the one on the right.

Please correct me if i"m wrong.


----------



## taftmcintosh

Add me to the club please!


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11764003*
> Add me to the club please!


Which kit do you have?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11763802*
> Hey guys, got my RX360 kit.
> 
> Just to confirm: we go, PUMP/RES > RX360 > RASA CPU Block > Pump/Res correct?
> 
> I will be installing mine over the next few days
> 
> Here's a diagram of what I will be doing. I will mount the RAD with the inlet/outlet to the left side of my case to make it easier on me.
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Turn the rad around so the inlet and outlet are closer to the pump/res - simply for shorter and neater tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11763868*
> ok thanks. the kit didn't come with any directions so I"m going to assume that the outlet of the pump is the upper hole, and then inlet is the bigger, hole in the centre.
> 
> Also I'm assuming the inlet on the cpu block is the one on the left, with the outlet being the one on the right.
> 
> Please correct me if i"m wrong.


There are three holes on the pump/res. There is the one on the top which has a black screw cap. That's the fillport. On the back, there are two holes - one in the bottom left and one in the centre right, directly in front of the black pump. The one in front of the pump is the outlet - the pump pushes the water out from there. The one in the bottom left is the inlet - the water returns to the reservoir through that hole.


----------



## jam3s

Ok thanks adz


----------



## Jonesey I7

I'm only gonna say this once so get your "I told you so's" in now.......... Retubing today with some 1/2id 3/4od, and when I took out the old tubing.........GUNK CITY. Just a weird film on the tubing so YES, THEY ARE RIGHT, DOOOOOOOOO NOOOOOOOOOOOT UUUUUUUUUUSE DYYYYYYYYYYYYYES. The end. K bye.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11764280*
> Ok thanks adz


No problem








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11764310*
> I'm only gonna say this once so get your "I told you so's" in now.......... Retubing today with some 1/2id 3/4od, and when I took out the old tubing.........GUNK CITY. Just a weird film on the tubing so YES, THEY ARE RIGHT, DOOOOOOOOO NOOOOOOOOOOOT UUUUUUUUUUSE DYYYYYYYYYYYYYES. The end. K bye.


I told you so


----------



## jam3s

Adz I'm having trouble mounting the res/pump in my Drive Bays in my HAF932

What do I do? just mod it?

Jam3s

EDIT: It fit in perfectly. NVM. lol


----------



## [Adz]

Glad you got it working. I've never seen a 932


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11764561*
> Glad you got it working. I've never seen a 932


haha thanks









Last n0_0b question of the day: which side is the push side of a fan?

Specifically, the Yate Loon DS12H-12


----------



## mbudden

Whatever side you feel the air pushing from.


----------



## spoolindsm127

Just got my RX360 kit today









Putting it together as we speak









I had a quick question for anyone using a MCW80..

Which port is inlet and which one is outlet? Or does it not matter? The instructions do not specify and are actually rather simple and a bit disappointing.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Jonesey I7

OK, I must be screwed. I replaced the 7/16 tubing with 1/2 tubing, and I ran it pump/res>rad>cpu>gpu>pump/res. When I filled it and turned it on, the water coming out of the res doesn't fill the tubing, only half full, and the out from the cpu block to the gpu also doesn't fill. What have I done? Is the pump not strong enough to run 1/2id tubing or what?

ANYONE. NOW IM SCARED LOL!!


----------



## Bastyn99

Hey guys, I have a question for you. Im really bored and I havent bought anything new in like half a year, and so I was thinking about maybe getting the RS240 kit, just for teh lulz, and ofc another case as the one i have now, Elite 335, is really not suited for WCing ^^. So I have two questions. 1: What would a good case for this be ? Is a HAF 922 any good for WCing or is there another case in the same pricerange thats better ? and 2: how easy would it be to change my CPU later ? could I do this without having to take anything in the loop apart and just remove the CPU block so I wouldnt have to leak test again ? Becuase Im probably getting a SB mobo/CPU next year.
thx in advance


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k33stone;11763453*
> anyone got a suggestion for quieting down the pump noise? got this system together, love it all, but that humming noise is driving me crazy


Hook it up to a fan controller. I have a two mode switch style: 7v and 12v, under 7v the pump and the fans are super quiet. the only thing more audible is the psu fan which drowns out the low noise coming from the pump and case/rad fans.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11764684*
> haha thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last n0_0b question of the day: which side is the push side of a fan?
> 
> Specifically, the Yate Loon DS12H-12


If you look at the casing out the fan, you'll find two arrows. One will show you the direction of the blades, the other will show you the direction of the airflow. When you put the fan on the radiator, if the airflow arrow is pointing to the radiator, it's in push. If it's away pointing away from the radiator, it's in pull.
Of course, you don't need special fans for push and pull, just in case you were wondering. Just move the fan to the opposite side if you want to switch from push to pull or vice versa.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11764807*
> OK, I must be screwed. I replaced the 7/16 tubing with 1/2 tubing, and I ran it pump/res>rad>cpu>gpu>pump/res. When I filled it and turned it on, the water coming out of the res doesn't fill the tubing, only half full, and the out from the cpu block to the gpu also doesn't fill. What have I done? Is the pump not strong enough to run 1/2id tubing or what?
> 
> ANYONE. NOW IM SCARED LOL!!


Not fully sure, but I'd say you don't have enough water? The pump should handle 1/2" ID tubes fine, so maybe you need to add more water to keep the loop in full flow all the time.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11765064*
> If you look at the casing out the fan, you'll find two arrows. One will show you the direction of the blades, the other will show you the direction of the airflow. When you put the fan on the radiator, if the airflow arrow is pointing to the radiator, it's in push. If it's away pointing away from the radiator, it's in pull.
> Of course, you don't need special fans for push and pull, just in case you were wondering. Just move the fan to the opposite side if you want to switch from push to pull or vice versa.
> 
> Not fully sure, but I'd say you don't have enough water? The pump should handle 1/2" ID tubes fine, so maybe you need to add more water to keep the loop in full flow all the time.


Res is completely full. Im retubing back the way i had it.... pumpres-rad-gpu-cpu-pumpres and HOPING it's ok.


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;11764951*
> Hey guys, I have a question for you. Im really bored and I havent bought anything new in like half a year, and so I was thinking about maybe getting the RS240 kit, just for teh lulz...


I recommend the Cooler Master 690 II Advanced. I don't own a HAF 922 so I can't say what its better at compared to the 690, but 690 II Advanced has:

All black interior
Supports 2x 240mm radiators (top must be thin and push or pull, bottom can be thick push or pull, or thin push/pull)
Free "Xdock" at the top.
10 fans support (IIRC).
$80 shipped from Amazon (2-day shipping free if you get a free Prime trial)
Here is my current setup, the case came yesterday so ignore the cable mess since I got tired lol.

I think you can fit a 360mm radiator at the top of this case without modding, but you'll lose a 5.25in bay and you can't place the third fan.


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;11765284*
> I recommend the Cooler Master 690 II Advanced. I don't own a HAF 922 so I can't say what its better at compared to the 690, but 690 II Advanced has:
> 
> All black interior
> Supports 2x 240mm radiators (top must be thin and push or pull, bottom can be thick push or pull, or thin push/pull)
> Free "Xdock" at the top.
> 10 fans support (IIRC).
> $80 shipped from Amazon (2-day shipping free if you get a free Prime trial)
> Here is my current setup, the case came yesterday so ignore the cable mess since I got tired lol.
> 
> I think you can fit a 360mm radiator at the top of this case without modding, but you'll lose a 5.25in bay and you can't place the third fan.


Thanks for your response, the 690IIA looks pretty good too, better for WC but worse for AC than the HAF it looks like ye ? and better cable management it looks like aswell. and about fitting a 360 rad and loosing 5.25'' bay, pff, who cares. Only time I use a DVD/CD Drive anyway is when installing my OS, what with the Steam and D2D and all. So the 690 actually looks like the better choice for WC. A bit less cheesy looking aswell 'mirite ?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Well, I think it's ok....I guess there is just a TON more air in the system this time, so much so that the out port on the rad will go half full, like it's not filling the rad completely ??


----------



## Jonesey I7

Come on now, where's all my dadgone club members at to help m3!!


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11765115*
> Res is completely full. Im retubing back the way i had it.... pumpres-rad-gpu-cpu-pumpres and HOPING it's ok.


Is it constantly full all the time, or does it dip during use?


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;11765388*
> Thanks for your response, the 690IIA looks pretty good too, better for WC but worse for AC than the HAF it looks like ye ? and better cable management it looks like aswell. and about fitting a 360 rad and loosing 5.25'' bay, pff, who cares. Only time I use a DVD/CD Drive anyway is when installing my OS, what with the Steam and D2D and all. So the 690 actually looks like the better choice for WC. A bit less cheesy looking aswell 'mirite ?


Well I thought you were going for water cooling, but this case should not be underestimated in the air-cooling arena, slap 10 fans on this and you got a turbine and it can handle large heat sinks (I've seen the Silver Arrow in one of these) but you lose a side fan slot. As for the internal 360mm you can actually put 2 fans on top of the radiator and the 3rd on the bottom, taking another 5.25in slot (for a total of 2) with it lol. You'll need spacers when mounting a 360mm since there is a piece of metal (about 1/8 inch) sticking out that you need to clear.

I've always been a fan of the 690s for its "simple" looks.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11765563*
> Is it constantly full all the time, or does it dip during use?


It went down alot, so I just refiled and it Kinda looks like it may be leveling out. The rad out no longer looks to only be half full anyway? This sucks


----------



## [Adz]

Yeah, the way I figure it is that the 1/2" ID tubing has a larger area (volume). To keep the loop full at all times, you need more water in there. Like, if you put in a new rad that holds a maximum 300ml of water at any point, you need an additional 300ml of water in the entire loop.
So it's basically the same as when you set up your loop the first time - leak test it and keep topping the water up as it dips down until it's constantly full.


----------



## kingofyo1

Jonesey, do you have the rad still externally mounted with the res of the radiator higher than the res/pump combo? that could be the issue. You need to raise the res/pump HIGHER than the rest of the components so it fills them up fully


----------



## Jonesey I7

Well, all is well that ends well. Even though to me it looks like my flow is really low, I shaved 2c of my max lol. Thanks guys I was terrified for a couple um...... HOURS.


----------



## mbudden

I like how when I get into this thread, I'm always near the end of peoples problems


----------



## [Adz]

Be proud, you started something great


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11765884*
> I like how when I get into this thread, I'm always near the end of peoples problems


Makes your life easier


----------



## Bal3Wolf

LOL well i had a big leak today my own fault lol i was cutting my tubbing shorter and i thought all the water was out so i moved the pc and tons of it came flowing out of the rad everything is ok tho. I changed the order of my loop and cut about a foot of tubbing out of it. I cant seem to get the paste just right with this block i was great doing it on air lol.

loop order
pump out to rad
rad to cpu in
cpu out to gpu
gpu out to res


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11766230*
> LOL well i had a big leak today my own fault lol i was cutting my tubbing shorter and i thought all the water was out so i moved the pc and tons of it came flowing out of the rad everything is ok tho. I changed the order of my loop and cut about a foot of tubbing out of it. I cant seem to get the paste just right with this block i was great doing it on air lol.
> 
> loop order
> pump out to rad
> rad to cpu in
> cpu out to gpu
> gpu out to res


So did your temps improve with less tubing, as I don't think the order could have done much?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

No my cpu temps are worse right now lol i cant seem the get the paste on good. But the gpu temps went down acrros the entire card.


----------



## kingofyo1

is the paste you're using decent? and does it require curing time? If you went for the AS5 and just put it on today, its not really gone through its paces enough to give you a decent temp yet


----------



## Bal3Wolf

using ic diamond and as5 only got good temps 1 time so far outa tons of remounts.


----------



## wermad

I just added a rice-grain size dab of AS Ceramique in the center. The pressure of the mounting made a good spread. Mine is not lapped.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11766609*
> using ic diamond and as5 only got good temps 1 time so far outa tons of remounts.


hmmm what method are you using to put the paste on?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol so far that haset worked for me ans spreading out as5 didnt either. Rice size in the center and even tried spreading out the as5 one time.


----------



## Jonesey I7

hmmm..... I don't know what to tell ya Bal3Wolf, except for maybe get some different paste like pk-1 or nt-h1. I use both of them, and it only took one try for each to get GREAT temps.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11766665*
> hmmm..... I don't know what to tell ya Bal3Wolf, except for maybe get some different paste like pk-1 or nt-h1. I use both of them, and it only took one try for each to get GREAT temps.


Me either and i dont thk it bubbles cause my pump stays quiet even if i move the case now and the gpu is staying cool under 40c on core 48-52 on vrms and under 50 on memory and shaders.


----------



## wermad

Shin Etsu x23 or Arctic Cooling MX3 are some alternatives.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

ok for future right now im broke lol so all i got is as5 ic diamon and some Shin-etsuMicrosi dont thk its the good stuff.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Are you putting enough pressure on the cpu?


----------



## wermad

go back to stock clocks and let the tim set in for a week. then crank up the oc and see what happens.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11766728*
> Are you putting enough pressure on the cpu?


Haha enugh i got them tight as they go my fingers got cuts from turning them lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11766740*
> go back to stock clocks and let the tim set in for a week. then crank up the oc and see what happens.


Im thinking the block is uneven maybe and thinking of maybe lapping my cpu and block.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11766757*
> Im thinking the block is uneven maybe and thinking of maybe lapping my cpu and block.


DEFINITELY lap that sucker, I didn't even install my loop until mine was razor test flat, and I'm pretty sure it made a BIG difference.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11766757*
> Haha enugh i got them tight as they go my fingers got cuts from turning them lol.
> 
> Im thinking the block is uneven maybe and thinking of maybe lapping my cpu and block.


Keep us posted


----------



## kingofyo1

Hmmm... You could try the shin etsu, I got some x23 with my FCPU purchase just to make sure I didnt have to use that silicone crap they throw into the xspc package


----------



## mbudden

Run to RadioShack and for like 8$ you can buy some AS5. Instead of waiting for the shin etsu to be shipped.


----------



## wermad

I think he has AS5.


----------



## kingofyo1

Yeah, he said he has the as5 and I think he said some ceramique and some older shin..


----------



## wermad

with all these remountings and tim applications, its gotta be either the block is making poor contact or its the cpu.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ok this time i used the gc-extreme little spread tool and spread out as5 all over the cpu then put a small dab in the center. Best temps im going to get probly 67-65-66-61 at 4.2ghz with ht. And i know as5 has a cure time and some bubbles will still leave so im not taking it apart anymore.


----------



## mbudden

Interesting... Same kind of temps you get with a H70... I highly doubt that's right.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I doubt a h70 will cool a i7 at 4200 with ht to 68c my mega couldnt do that and its on par with a h70. I hope the temps drop some more over time when air bleeds out and the paste cures.


----------



## mbudden

When I through mine together, I found little amount of bubbles in the tubing... But in the rad, it was a totally different story. Try shaking up the rad. I had massive amounts of bubbles in there.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Iv shook it alot lol my pump stays the same it wont make any loud noises like when bubbles come thru the loop.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11767566*
> When I through mine together, I found little amount of bubbles in the tubing... But in the rad, it was a totally different story. Try shaking up the rad. I had massive amounts of bubbles in there.


Ain't that the truth!! I thought my pump was broken, or my rad was clogged from the dye gunk, or SOMETHING, because the outlet of the rad was barely pushing enough water to fill it half way. In the end, it was MASSIVE air that took close to three hours to finally get all of it out.


----------



## charliehorse55

It sounds like you are using too much TIM... the trick is to use as little as possible (i mean, about 1/3 of the size of a grain of rice) and then turn your mounting pressure up to as high as you can get it with your hands.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliehorse55;11767640*
> It sounds like you are using too much TIM... the trick is to use as little as possible (i mean, about 1/3 of the size of a grain of rice) and then turn your mounting pressure up to as high as you can get it with your hands.


Lol iv tried little lot spread all but none lol.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11767660*
> Lol iv tried little lot spread all but none lol.


You already know what your problem is boss..... You need to lap that block. *And cpu in my opinion* I bet when you take it off and do the razor blade test you are dumb founded at how convex it is. Or is it concave? I can never remember


----------



## mbudden

I want to lap my CPU.
But I've heard by lapping your CPU. You create static electricity between the sandpaper and the heatpad that you're lapping. Don't want a lapped CPU that won't work


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you keep water on the sandpaper and iv lapped 5 cpus problem free.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11767699*
> You already know what your problem is boss..... You need to lap that block. *And cpu in my opinion* I bet when you take it off and do the razor blade test you are dumb founded at how convex it is. Or is it concave? I can never remember


I been thinking of that trying not to lol.


----------



## mbudden

Ah. So you don't dry lap? I always see people on Youtube dry lapping. None I have seen used water.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

iv never done it dry and never killed a cpu dry lapping is also hard to get a mirror finish.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I've lapped every cpu I can remember owning dry, but always wore a static wrist strap, and kept my foot on an old tower. I've never killed a cpu either. Wet sanding is too messy, and takes too long. Wet always took me hours, dry I can do in 45 mins or less.


----------



## townending

damn, i just spent 10 hours rebuilding my computer with a new watercooling loop

XSPC rs240 kit, with a 360mm radiator


----------



## Balsagna

Oh yes. It's Christmas, now I can finally install my XSPC RS360 kit!

Will have pics up Today/Tomorrow for you, Mbudden


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11766853*
> DEFINITELY lap that sucker, I didn't even install my loop until mine was razor test flat, and I'm pretty sure it made a BIG difference.


I'm with Jonesey on this Bal3Wolf. Everything I've read that you've done up to this point should have cleaned up your temps already and they haven't. Your block mounting surface must be the issue.

Based on what I'm hearing from you, I shall now LAP my block BEFORE installing, what's a few more hours before hand after having waited nearly a year before deciding to go to WC. I've already got a lapping kit from a Xigmatek HDT-S1283 air cooler that I lapped to a mirror finish before. I'll consider lapping my cpu as well, but I had a 955BE go bad on me back in February, so I was glad I hadn't lapped it then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11767699*
> You already know what your problem is boss..... You need to lap that block. *And cpu in my opinion* I bet when you take it off and do the razor blade test you are dumb founded at how convex it is. Or is it concave? I can never remember


Easy to remember - concave creates a cave (curves inward) and convex creates a hill (curves outward).


----------



## AMOCO

Well I got to looking at my rushed loop(Didn't think about it at the time that I got this kit).Because I was so excited when I got it.
So,now that I had a chance to evaluate the loop,I decided to change it.The main reason is when I get my motherboard waterblock all I will have to do is drop the block and put on 2 short pieces of tubing.
Basically I just put the rad with the barbs at the back of the tower.It's still inside at the top,But I just spun it 180 degrees.
I will post new pictures later today.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *townending*


damn, i just spent 10 hours rebuilding my computer with a new watercooling loop

XSPC rs240 kit, with a 360mm radiator


Pics man, PICS!!!


----------



## LocoJason

Figured I would add my 2 cents on these kits... and their being completely awesome, that is. I researched a lot before buying the XSPC kit. I could not find anything on the market even close to the same price/performance in water pc cooling; even if you custom assemble your own loop.

I've had some time this past week to play around with my RX360 kit. On air cooling my 965 could barely hit over 4ghz stable. With the RX360 kit it's now stable at 4.2ghz with 15C lower temps at full load.

Here's a couple tests/mods I did to see if there was an easy way to improve performance on this kit (there's not):

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...rformance.html


----------



## LocoJason

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Balsagna*


Oh yes. It's Christmas, now I can finally install my XSPC RS360 kit!

Will have pics up Today/Tomorrow for you, Mbudden


You won't be let down! I'm a water cooling fanboy now, for sure. You'll probably drop 10-15c or more off the temps you had with the H50.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I will NEVER go back to air, hell I will NEVER have anything less than this kit.... only bigger and MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAR!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

LOl ok now i can say i love water but now my pc cant keep my room warm lol. I usualy keep my window open and crap its 60f in my room today even folding and running boinc on my gpu the air coming out of the rad is hardly even warm. My water level droped some over night i guess i got rid of alot of bubbles.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


LOl ok now i can say i love water but now my pc cant keep my room warm lol. I usualy keep my window open and crap its 60f in my room today even folding and running boinc on my gpu the air coming out of the rad is hardly even warm. My water level droped some over night i guess i got rid of alot of bubbles.











Now it's our turn to say WE TOLD YOU SO!!!! I knew you had to have massive air in that thing, it took me 3 hours yesterday to get all mine out. And you have solid color tubing, so you couldn't even see if you still had problems. I STILL think you should lap both the block and the cpu, and I bet you'd lose another 3-5c.


----------



## man00

I thought about going with water, using this kit
Swiftech H20-320 Edge - PC Liquid Cooling 
But after thinking about it decided not to go that way. Possible leaks 
from seems like always adding new hardware. I still may go water but not for now. Looks like most seem happy so far


----------



## Protron

can the Rasa 360 kit push a cpu and gpu, looking to order me one soon


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protron;11772445*
> can the Rasa 360 kit push a cpu and gpu, looking to order me one soon


Absolutely!! It covers mine and then some.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11772429*
> Now it's our turn to say WE TOLD YOU SO!!!! I knew you had to have massive air in that thing, it took me 3 hours yesterday to get all mine out. And you have solid color tubing, so you couldn't even see if you still had problems. I STILL think you should lap both the block and the cpu, and I bet you'd lose another 3-5c.


well it was the cold temps for the large temp drop i closed my window and its went up to 60c lol. Gpu stays cold tho but yea i agree i thk im gonna have to break down and lap i just dread unhooking the block


----------



## wermad

Are you using PcProbeII?


----------



## vaughnsimon

Hi everyone, just wanted to let you know that I will be joining the club soon! I placed my order for the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 from FrozenCPU.com last night!


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaughnsimon;11774202*
> Hi everyone, just wanted to let you know that I will be joining the club soon! I placed my order for the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 from FrozenCPU.com last night!


welcome *soon* to the club m8.


----------



## spoolindsm127

Just finished putting in my RX360 kit







. My knees are broken (not literally). Not nearly as pretty as the other setups I've seen in this thread but nonetheless, what do you guys think?


----------



## kingofyo1

Actually, thats the way I had mine setup as external, but I have an rs 360 unit and no gpu cooler yet


----------



## spoolindsm127

I had originally ordered a RS360 kit, but went with the RX since I decided to add the GPU block.

Question: How long does it take on average for a setup like mine to bleed *completely?*

I have a bunch of tiny bubbles in the res and last part of the tubing in the loop. And I think because there's a bubble stuck in the pump it's a bit noisy as well. Like a humming/vibrating sound..


----------



## kingofyo1

couple few days, unless you have some vibrator or something pressed against the reservoir or if you hvae a fan with a broken blade, you could put that on the case somewhere to give it the vibrations. Thats what happened with mine, while i was putting everything back together one of the 200mm fan blades busted off but it kinda helps actually lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;11774610*
> Just finished putting in my RX360 kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My knees are broken (not literally). Not nearly as pretty as the other setups I've seen in this thread but nonetheless, what do you guys think?


You going to throw in the EK R3E full cover water block?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;11774610*
> Just finished putting in my RX360 kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My knees are broken (not literally). Not nearly as pretty as the other setups I've seen in this thread but nonetheless, what do you guys think?


Why have one push, 2 pull? And mount to it?? AND not use your third fan guard on the FAN >?!?!?!


----------



## Chalupa

I want to use one of the Rasa kit's for my cpu cooler. I plan on using Cooler Master's HAF 932 case. Is the Rasa RX360 the best one to go with?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa;11775224*
> I want to use one of the Rasa kit's for my cpu cooler. I plan on using Cooler Master's HAF 932 case. Is the Rasa RX360 the best one to go with?


I would think the rx will be 1-2 c cooler than the rs. But either will do you well with some push/pull on the fans.


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11774922*
> couple few days, unless you have some vibrator or something pressed against the reservoir or if you hvae a fan with a broken blade, you could put that on the case somewhere to give it the vibrations. Thats what happened with mine, while i was putting everything back together one of the 200mm fan blades busted off but it kinda helps actually lol


Hey thanks for the reply. Lol that's pretty funny actually, a broken fan actually turns out to help you.

I don't have anything of the sort so I guess I'll just have to wait..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11774960*
> You going to throw in the EK R3E full cover water block?


Man I wish I had the extra dough for it, as you know it costs over $170.

There was someone selling a used on on ebay. I missed the auction of course and it went for $50









I dropped about 5-6c on the IOH and ICH just from putting on the bigger northbridge heatsink that comes as optional with the R3E. And I'm sure the absence of the big ass copper true which was dissipating heat to near by components had also something to do with the lower temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11775029*
> Why have one push, 2 pull? And mount to it?? AND not use your third fan guard on the FAN >?!?!?!


Lol you don't know how long I had to think before deciding to do that.

About the one push and two pull, that was the only way I could get enough room between the radiator barbs and the hose opening in my case to fit the tubing. Or else using just the supplied brackets the radiator was too close, and the openings too high, and the hose would kink. Trust me, I almost went out and bought a Swiftech Radbox but couldn't because of Christmas. Then I came up with that idea, and honestly it works so I'm okay with it









The fan grill, yes I wanted to put it on! But there was not enough thread left on the screws to make it to the radiator. And even now the screws are in there just a couple of turns only









Overall I had to make some sacrifices as you can see. But I'm pleased with the results. Now I'm just waiting to completely bleed the system so I can get to benching


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ok im home now debating on lapping the cpu for starters then checking my temps see how they are and maybe lapping the block. Lol drives me nuts that the gpu temps dont pass 50c and my cpu temps should be lower i think.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11775728*
> Ok im home now debating on lapping the cpu for starters then checking my temps see how they are and maybe lapping the block. Lol drives me nuts that the gpu temps dont pass 50c and my cpu temps should be lower i think.


Just as comparison, my gpu idles at 30c, my cpu at 33c. My cpu loads at 48c, my gpu loads at 45c. They stay VERY close to one another, as one would think they should. But then again, I lapped both my cpu and block. And actually, 97% of the time, they are exactly the same, like when gaming for hours or the little bit of folding I do.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Yea i know intels put off more heat then amds but its just crazy for my gpu to idle at 26c and cpu idles at 22c on the tcase and 35 on lowest core. And cpu loads at 75c at 4200 1.31 vcore now in ibt and the gpu nothing passes 50c the gpu over time has started to get cooler cpu haset tho.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;11770516*
> Well I got to looking at my rushed loop(Didn't think about it at the time that I got this kit).Because I was so excited when I got it.
> So,now that I had a chance to evaluate the loop,I decided to change it.The main reason is when I get my motherboard waterblock all I will have to do is drop the block and put on 2 short pieces of tubing.
> Basically I just put the rad with the barbs at the back of the tower.It's still inside at the top,But I just spun it 180 degrees.
> I will post new pictures later today.


Update pics of Water cooling loop,(Reorganize):


----------



## backfire103

I got my RS360 kit together today. I did a leak down for about 6 hours an I'm still a little nervous about it. So far temps are great. The only issue is I have to order new fans as the ones I have don't reach to the case. I'm still debating if I want to move the rad inside the case but I'm getting pretty good temps where its at.


----------



## kingofyo1

amoco, I edited the spread sheet to add your 2nd set of pics, backfire, I added you in with the RS360 kit and your pics as well.


----------



## mbudden

You sneaky.... I was trying to add Amoco's second link...
and it was already there. LOL


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11777061*
> You sneaky.... I was trying to add Amoco's second link...
> and it was already there. LOL


ninja pleeease









once in a blue moon i actually do my job of updating ^^


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *backfire103;11776724*
> I got my RS360 kit together today. I did a leak down for about 6 hours an I'm still a little nervous about it. So far temps are great. The only issue is I have to order new fans as the ones I have don't reach to the case. I'm still debating if I want to move the rad inside the case but I'm getting pretty good temps where its at.


what are your temps looking like? Also, is that 570 loud?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11776961*
> amoco, I edited the spread sheet to add your 2nd set of pics, backfire, I added you in with the RS360 kit and your pics as well.


Oh Ok,Thank you.


----------



## kingofyo1

definitely welcome. with the 965 be, whats your temps?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I got good news and bad news and good news good news cpu surived the lap bad news i got 2 hot cores still good news i got 2 that are 15c cooler. Cpu was so effed up i spent hrs lappin the middled was sunk in so bad that it just wouldnt get lapped i finaly got it done and theirs some silver left on the edges but i was tired of lapping the thing lol. So i guess i just need to get the paste on it just right now and all 4 cores should be in the 60s on ibt.


----------



## mbudden

Hmm.... Makes me want to lap my CPU.
@4.2Ghz & 1.5V, I idle at 30C. But running IBT, I hit ~65C.
lol. Big difference from my normal OC at 3.95Ghz where it hits ~58C


----------



## [Adz]

All this temp and overclocking talk makes me jealous.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11778177*
> All this temp and overclocking talk makes me jealous.


It'll be here soon Adz, go to bed early at night, so the next day comes that much faster


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11778189*
> It'll be here soon Adz, go to bed early at night, so the next day comes that much faster


Lol, it's 7AM here. I've been up all night.
I've already got the entire kit, I've had it all since before this thread even started. I just can't put it together yet because I need to finish my case mod.


----------



## mbudden

Finish your case mod


----------



## GoodInk

Well guys, I was just taking some pics of my PC and realized that I have CPU block hooked up backwards. I want to switch it but I'm scared I won't have enough tubing.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11778337*
> Well guys, I was just taking some pics of my PC and realized that I have CPU block hooked up backwards. I want to switch it but I'm scared I won't have enough tubing.


i did the same thing when i first hooked up my block.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11778318*
> Finish your case mod


I'm working on it


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11777620*
> definitely welcome. with the 965 be, whats your temps?


I live in an up stairs apartment in Houston,So right now it's 30f outside.We have no heat on.And the ambient temps in my room are 70f.
And my idle temps are 29c & under load 48c.


----------



## thrasherht

I have a treat for you NZXT Fans and XSPC Users.
The phantom fits a 360mm Rad perfectly if you know how to mount it right.
You also have to move some cabling around, but isn't really that hard to move.
here is the Rad mounted in the top of the case using the 240mm Holes for one part, and new holes drilled for the end of the rad that is facing the front of the case.









here are the cables you have to move, see how they have to be moved to the fan hole inorder to be out of the way.









mounted


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I lapped my cpu which waset very flat but still having trouble getting really great temps these are the best i been able to get so far i guess their not bad considering it is a i7 and im cooling the gpu to. My room is fairly warm to probly about 77f.


----------



## fr0st.

Bal3Wolf, is HT on?
Are you using the stock fans?
Can you specify your situation?


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Well guys, I was just taking some pics of my PC and realized that I have CPU block hooked up backwards. I want to switch it but I'm scared I won't have enough tubing.


You can use the same tubing you are now. Drain the loop, disconnect the CPU block, rotate it 180 degrees and then reconnect the tubing. You will see a large difference in temperatures due to the injection plate design of the XSPC Rasa.


----------



## backfire103

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


what are your temps looking like? Also, is that 570 loud?


My temps are around 35c or so. Which is miles better than my old H50. As far as the 570 goes it very quiet. I cant hear it over the case fans even under load.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charliehorse55*


You can use the same tubing you are now. Drain the loop, disconnect the CPU block, rotate it 180 degrees and then reconnect the tubing. You will see a large difference in temperatures due to the injection plate design of the XSPC Rasa.


Well that will be true if I can get the tubing off with out having to make a cut, I do have some left over clear tubing that came with the kit that I can use too. I'm running 3 threads of prime+furmark right now trying to heat up the tubing as much as possible.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Am really debating on what to spend the rest of this $200 dollar gift card on from newegg. Have about $55 left, help me out guys. Shoot me some idea's


----------



## spoolindsm127

How bout some proper fans for that rad...


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Am really debating on what to spend the rest of this $200 dollar gift card on from newegg. Have about $55 left, help me out guys. Shoot me some idea's


Gentle Tyhpoons if they ever come back in stock at newegg.


----------



## backfire103

Quick question about my kill coil. It fell into the intake barb of my rad. Is it ok staying there or should I drain the system an move it. An if so what's the easiest way of draining it. thanks.


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *backfire103*


Quick question about my kill coil. It fell into the intake barb of my rad. Is it ok staying there or should I drain the system an move it. An if so what's the easiest way of draining it. thanks.


It _might _be adding some restriction to the loop depending upon its orientation.

Maybe watch the operating temperatures to see if it affects the loop adversely. If the blockage does makes things worse, drain the loop and remove/relocate the KillCoil.

I generally drain loops by removing the tubing form the pump intake and let the liquid empty into a small bucket.


----------



## backfire103

I dont think it is but ill keep an eye on it. Also draining it that way won't work for me because the pump is built into the res. thaks though.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Am really debating on what to spend the rest of this $200 dollar gift card on from newegg. Have about $55 left, help me out guys. Shoot me some idea's


stock up on differt thermal paste maybe always can use alot of that. On another note looks like my 4400mhz is stable with 1.41 vcore been folding on it for 7hrs now and pretty decent temps for the clock and volts used.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


stock up on differt thermal paste maybe always can use alot of that. On another note looks like my 4400mhz is stable with 1.41 vcore been folding on it for 7hrs now and pretty decent temps for the clock and volts used.











I guess you finally got it mounted how you want it huh? Are you still gonna lap the block too?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127*


How bout some proper fans for that rad...


what's wrong with the fans on it?


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11782017*
> stock up on differt thermal paste maybe always can use alot of that. On another note looks like my 4400mhz is stable with 1.41 vcore been folding on it for 7hrs now and pretty decent temps for the clock and volts used.


For a VCore of 1.41v those temps look amazing, congrats







. Seems you found the right paste for 24/7. What did you end up using, and what method did you use to apply it? (dot in center or rice grain method)

I'm still bleeding my loop and am a bit concerned with my temps. How much are temps affected by the bubbles in the res? Will the temps not drop until ALL the bubbles are out, even the multiple tiny ones in the res (esp adhering to underside of pump)?

I'm a first timer so have no idea how much of an affect bubbles have on temperature.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11782174*
> I guess you finally got it mounted how you want it huh? Are you still gonna lap the block too?


I lapped it alittle lol with it in the case i taped some wore out 1000 grit to glass and lapped it that way i noticed this block is bad about not cleaning all the thermal paste off. Seems a few laps gets it clean and it has better temps. And i dont thk im gonna take my pc apart for awhile lol my fingers are so sore from remounting the block.


----------



## Balsagna

And here you go, guys. Finally got to install the kit into my Antec 1200 (which was actually a *****)

Pictures right now aren't the best. Neither is my setup right now. I still have air bubbles and all that good stuff. I'm getting the Corsair 800D and will redo the whole loop anyways.

But without further ado.














































Last but not least: Overclocked to 4.0ghz on an Intel Core i7 920 and running Intel Burn Test @ Maximum Stress










Note* Yes I'm using Feser liquid. I'll be using Distilled, and this was just for show. Again, I'll be redoing the loop as I believe my results aren't the best at the moment.


----------



## mbudden

RS360 kit right?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna;11782609*
> 
> Last but not least: Overclocked to 4.0ghz on an Intel Core i7 920 and running Intel Burn Test @ Maximum Stress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note* Yes I'm using Feser liquid. I'll be using Distilled, and this was just for show. Again, I'll be redoing the loop as I believe my results aren't the best at the moment.


Those temps are great for the amount of voltage you're pumping through it, but 1.424v to get 4GHz on a 920???


----------



## ecaftermath

Yeah.,...thats some crazy vcore for 4ghz..you might want to try at least 1.3-1.32


----------



## Balsagna

I know, I was just pumping the voltage in to see what it's looking like. I was worried at first on the temps. At idle in bios I was at 37c

So I pumped voltage in to see what it would max out at. But thanks, glad it's not 'that' bad. I'll be tweaking it. I just literally installed it.









Anywho, off I go to lower the voltage.

EDIT: Yeah it's the RS360 kit. I have the Rad mounted in the front of the case. One thing that could be the problem is one of the RAD fan's don't work. I accidentally broke a wire on my Antec fans I had.....

Oops. But like I said, Corsair 800D soon


----------



## Balsagna

Alrighty. I lowered the voltage to 1.34 and am at 60-59-61-47

Much better


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna;11782707*
> I know, I was just pumping the voltage in to see what it's looking like. I was worried at first on the temps. At idle in bios I was at 37c
> 
> So I pumped voltage in to see what it would max out at. But thanks, glad it's not 'that' bad. I'll be tweaking it. I just literally installed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, off I go to lower the voltage.
> 
> EDIT: Yeah it's the RS360 kit. I have the Rad mounted in the front of the case. One thing that could be the problem is one of the RAD fan's don't work. I accidentally broke a wire on my Antec fans I had.....
> 
> Oops. But like I said, Corsair 800D soon


You would actually be suprised how well that rad holds up with only 2 fans going. LOL, I ran like that for a couple days before i realized my motherboard was limiting my fans to STOP. LOL.


----------



## [Adz]

Balsagna, are you sure the block is mounted properly - there's a 14c difference between your hottest and coldest core. Seems like either a) the block isn't mounted with equal pressure (or is in need of lapping); or b) bad sensor.


----------



## mbudden

I would suspect a bad mount.
I like how I got mine perfect the first try.


----------



## Balsagna

Hmm, I'm not sure. at idle, it's normal with the rest of the cores, and under load it verys. I think it's a sensor.

It was the same way with my Corsair H50. I thought it was a bad mount so I reseated 4-5x to nothing better.

I used the pea size and am sure I mounted it right. Then again.. I did use the paste it came with. I couldn't find my AS5


----------



## charliehorse55

Balsagna I would really try and replace that third radiator fan. Radiators are mainly limited by the amount of air that flows over them and thus if you are running 2 fans you really only have a 240mm radiator.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Balsagna*


Hmm, I'm not sure. at idle, it's normal with the rest of the cores, and under load it verys. I think it's a sensor.

It was the same way with my Corsair H50. I thought it was a bad mount so I reseated 4-5x to nothing better.

I used the pea size and am sure I mounted it right. Then again.. I did use the paste it came with. I couldn't find my AS5


Generally, if it's a bad sensor, it's the other way around - wildly off while idling, but pull up in line with the rest under load. Because of the way the sensor works, the hotter the core is, the more accurate the reading is. 
Apparently the TIM that comes with the kit is crap. Try to find the AS5 or something better if you have anything else.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charliehorse55*


Balsagna I would really try and replace that third radiator fan. Radiators are mainly limited by the amount of air that flows over them and thus if you are running 2 fans you really only have a 240mm radiator.


You just answered a question I'd forgotten to ask. I was wondering, in a purely hypothetical situation, if you had enough radiator surface area, could it be passively cooled (i.e. no fans).


----------



## mattlef

I've done a bit of searching, and i have a few questions for you guys that know this pump intmately.

I have the RS240 kit, so far temps are awesome, i5 750 @ 4.0 idles 32-35 loads in the 50's.

Basically, i'm looking to add two EK 460 blocks and a RX360 Rad as well as another res for aesthetics. Do you think this pump will be able to handle everything, or do you think i'd need to just get another pump with more then 1.5 head?


----------



## Balsagna

I'll redo the block when I get the 800D

Right now, I don't even see over 40c when gaming and after I lowered the voltage, I don't see over 62c. I'll play iwth it some more and find out for you guys.


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11783554*
> You just answered a question I'd forgotten to ask. I was wondering, in a purely hypothetical situation, if you had enough radiator surface area, could it be passively cooled (i.e. no fans).


You could get that to work. If you placed it outside of the case and placed it so that the radiator surface was vertical, the airflow caused by convection might be enough to cool your loop effectively.


----------



## Balsagna

Alrighty, here's and update after redoing the voltage and and maintaining 4ghz.









How does that look? Better?


----------



## ErBall

rx360 kit showed up the day before Christmas, and the GF got me an 800d for Christmas. All around win I say.


----------



## Balsagna

I didn't see the RX360 kit anywhere. I would of bought that instead. Going to get the 800D ordered tonight/tomorrow I think. I'm not sure if that's truly the case I want, though.

It's ugly imo, but a great water cooling case.


----------



## taftmcintosh




----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna;11786108*
> I didn't see the RX360 kit anywhere. I would of bought that instead. Going to get the 800D ordered tonight/tomorrow I think. I'm not sure if that's truly the case I want, though.
> 
> It's ugly imo, but a great water cooling case.


800 may be ugly, but inside its beautiful. Tons of space for equipment, plus the cable management is among the best. It has all the space for a 360 rad and even with a little mod, it'll fit a 480. If i had 250 to throw around, I'd get one immediately. Other options include a mountainmods case or lian li


----------



## mrfajita

Got my fans mounted in the case, pushing through the radiator. I never got added my last post, so add me to the OP.


----------



## JMCB

I have a 700D (with a 800D window) I'm about to put in a RASA 360 Kit. First time using a true water cooling setup (and not the H50). Wish me luck, all!


----------



## ErBall

rx360 kit was found at jab-tech.com


----------



## Balsagna

Good luck. I had the H50 and wasn't that happy.

Boy is there a difference now!


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;11786438*
> rx360 kit was found at jab-tech.com


Yeah, I didn't see it when I looked there. So I ordered the RS360 at FrozenCpu.

But for size and what it's doing, I doubt the RX rad would improve just the CPU much.


----------



## mbudden

I added some people to the list.
If anyone wants to throw up a before and after temps. I'll gladly add that to the OP. Since we only have my Pentium Dual Core and GoodInk's i5.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna;11785928*
> Alrighty, here's and update after redoing the voltage and and maintaining 4ghz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does that look? Better?


Looks good but you need to set the threads to 8 ibt does not do a good job at auto setting them and why does your tjmax say 96 ?


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11787454*
> I added some people to the list.
> If anyone wants to throw up a before and after temps. I'll gladly add that to the OP. Since we only have my Pentium Dual Core and GoodInk's i5.


thought I told ya already, but my before temps:

no load: 35c
load: 62c

now: no load 15-20c
load(100% folding) 30c


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11787639*
> thought I told ya already, but my before temps:
> 
> no load: 35c
> load: 62c
> 
> now: no load 15-20c
> load(100% folding) 30c


I want pics NAO.


----------



## kingofyo1

well i can provide nao pics but i cant provide any before pics :/


----------



## backfire103

I'm back with some more stupid questions. First off how often should the kill coil be changed. Second, should I purchase a fan controller/ temperature alarm. I don't know what the failure rate is on these pumps but id sure be upset if my i7 burned up. An last whats the best way to drain the system. Obviously because the pump inlet is at the bottom of the res, it cant be from there. Thanks.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *backfire103;11787863*
> I'm back with some more stupid questions. First off how often should the kill coil be changed. Second, should I purchase a fan controller/ temperature alarm. I don't know what the failure rate is on these pumps but id sure be upset if my i7 burned up. An last whats the best way to drain the system. Obviously because the pump inlet is at the bottom of the res, it cant be from there. Thanks.


No need to change the kill coil. It's a strand of silver. It will outlast you. LOL. As for the fans, I just have them plugged into my mobo. They are silent as can be. I hear the HDD more than the fans. I doubt the pump will go out on you. Even if it does by some miracle, don't you have a program like Core Temp running that will alert you when your CPU goes above a certain temp? I do. And best way, well, if you can just pop off a hose and let it go into a bowl or something.


----------



## kingofyo1

lol matt, I just had a thought. I'm pretty sure that my inlet/outlet on the pump are switched but I'm still getting good temps  or at least the cpu in/out are wrong... I guess it doesnt matter really, but I probably should switch it out when i get my gpu block in...


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11787904*
> lol matt, I just had a thought. I'm pretty sure that my inlet/outlet on the pump are switched but I'm still getting good temps  or at least the cpu in/out are wrong... I guess it doesnt matter really, but I probably should switch it out when i get my gpu block in...


Interesting... haha.
How'd you make that mistake?


----------



## kingofyo1

I made a good guess thinking that the bottom was the pump outlet, and that the one on the higher side of the rad was the res/pump inlet 

just used common sense, which apparently isn't so common anymore


----------



## mbudden

Yeah...
The higher barb on the Res is the Pump Outlet. The lower one is the Res Inlet. Did you get your hose connections on your CPU block correct at least?

My tubing has turned like a brownish color. Time to order some new tubing. It looks like it's the tubing itself. The water is perfectly clear.


----------



## Electric

I have a couple of questions about the 750 RS240 Kit.

*1.* This is most likely a stupid question, but isn't all I need after I buy the 750 RS240 kit is my TIM, the IandH silver Killcoil, and a gallon of distilled water?

I notice in the unboxing of the video that he had a bunch of Feser products too, like:
"Feser Corrosion Blocker"
"Feser Active UV Green Die"
"Feser Ultra Pure Water"

Do I need all these products in order for it to work or do I just need TIM, killcoil, and distilled water?

*2.* Also, the fans that it comes with, do I use those as case fans or where do I put them? I am currently using Cooler Master Megaflow Red LED Fans in my HAF 922, and those fans don't have a red LED. :/

*3.* Last question.. Is there a manual that comes with the XPSC rasa 750 RS240 kit? I would like to get an overview as to how everything works. I'm 14 and I've never set up a watercooling kit before..

Thanks!


----------



## Jonesey I7

Ok, just ordered six new 90cfm slipstream scythe fans, and I'm gonna shroud them all. Should drop another 2-5 degrees, AND get rid of the multi color garbage on the top of the rad. Will post results soon.


----------



## kingofyo1

wait the higher one is pump outlet?? then I got it correct! nvrmnd ^^ here's how mine's set up:


















thats right, right?


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;11788083*
> I have a couple of questions about the 750 RS240 Kit.
> 
> *1.* This is most likely a stupid question, but isn't all I need after I buy the 750 RS240 kit is my TIM, the IandH silver Killcoil, and a gallon of distilled water?
> 
> I notice in the unboxing of the video that he had a bunch of Feser products too, like:
> "Feser Corrosion Blocker"
> "Feser Active UV Green Die"
> "Feser Ultra Pure Water"
> 
> Do I need all these products in order for it to work or do I just need TIM, killcoil, and distilled water?
> 
> *2.* Also, the fans that it comes with, do I use those as case fans or where do I put them? I am currently using Cooler Master Megaflow Red LED Fans in my HAF 922, and those fans don't have a red LED. :/
> 
> *3.* Last question.. Is there a manual that comes with the XPSC rasa 750 RS240 kit? I would like to get an overview as to how everything works. I'm 14 and I've never set up a watercooling kit before..
> 
> Thanks!


question 1:all you need is good tim(shin etsu x23 or the sort) distilled, a kill coil and *optional* colored tubing
2:you attach them to the radiator however you'd like,aka push or pull. make sure they all face the same direction using the stickers
3.there is a *manual* but i use the term loosely.. that manual is CRAP! just ask us if you have any questions about it


----------



## mbudden




----------



## GoodInk

Well I just got done redoing my setup, and got the water flowing threw the CPU block properly now. I'm showing a about 5°C improvement over all including the GPU!. Plus before I had a fan rigged up on the top of my case blowing cool air in feeding the RX120 on the back. Now after a day of measuring, cutting, drilling and grinding, I have made room for the top fan to be mounted correctly and have it exhausting out the top, and I left the IO shield off to allow air movement. I really did this because the heat sinks behind the RX120 were getting pretty hot because of the lack of air movement. Sometime, I'll try flipping the top to intake and see if it helps.

Before










After


----------



## kingofyo1

dang you got to the picture before i could edit the second "inlet" to show "outlet"... please correct such a mess as I did ^^ no, but I dont understand why they would put the pumps inlet below its outlet?!? does that make sense to you? the water will be coming from the bottom, and if there isnt enough water (for some ungodly reason) then it'll run dry while having a half res left worth!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11788205*
> dang you got to the picture before i could edit the second "inlet" to show "outlet"... please correct such a mess as I did ^^ no, but I dont understand why they would put the pumps inlet below its outlet?!? does that make sense to you? the water will be coming from the bottom, and if there isnt enough water (for some ungodly reason) then it'll run dry while having a half res left worth!


The inlet pushes all the water to the front and it mixes after hitting the front of the res. And if your pump gets that low, well I think you have bigger problem than a pump not pushing water, besides that is what the window in the cover plate is for.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11788279*
> The inlet pushes all the water to the front and it mixes after hitting the front of the res. And if your pump gets that low, well I think you have bigger problem than a pump not pushing water, besides that is what the window in the cover plate is for.


ah alright, that kinda makes a bit more sense to me than I was thinking


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you know whats wierd the inlet and outlet are differt for the res for the d5 pump their switched from the one in the kit. Probly because way each pump sits inside it.

D5 pump res









X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir


----------



## fr0st.

1000th post!









I'm gonna order my kit soon, hold tight for pictures. Will probably be a couple weeks though :/


----------



## Bal3Wolf

cool im sorta happy with my setup i keep thinking my temps should be lower lol 75c or so on linx at 4400mhz 1.41 vcore but i am cooling my video card to.


----------



## fr0st.

Wow, those are pretty good temps Bal3Wolf, 1.41V is a lot for me, I run 4GHz HT on with about 1.225 IIRC. My 920 really does well with the V's I give it


----------



## mrfajita

Temps before, with Cooler Master V6GT, push pull (stock V6GT fans)
Idle: 34
IBT: 72

Temps after, with RS240, same fans doing push
Idle: 26
IBT: 60


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11788866*
> Wow, those are pretty good temps Bal3Wolf, 1.41V is a lot for me, I run 4GHz HT on with about 1.225 IIRC. My 920 really does well with the V's I give it


Ya i can run lower vcore for other clocks but right now im running 4.4ghz.

4.0 ht 1.24
4.2 ht 1.31
4.3 ht 1.37
4.4 ht 1.41

On another note will the bubbles ever 100% leave the res ?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11788894*
> Ya i can run lower vcore for other clocks but right now im running 4.4ghz.
> 
> 4.0 ht 1.24
> 4.2 ht 1.31
> 4.3 ht 1.37
> 4.4 ht 1.41
> 
> On another note will the bubbles ever 100% leave the res ?


I would say mine was 99.9% bubble free after about a month. That one that gets stuck under the hood of the pump intake takes awhile to get rid of.


----------



## mbudden

A month?
Mine took me like 2 days.

Most the bubbles were in my rad, rather than anywhere else in my loop.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol well i dont have clear tubbing so not easy to tell where my bubbles are other then the res. My pump wont make any noise now shaking the case tho i do see bubbles in the res on the silver coil and on the part the pump pulls water from so its not free of all the bubbles.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11789019*
> A month?
> Mine took me like 2 days.
> 
> Most the bubbles were in my rad, rather than anywhere else in my loop.


About 95% overnight, but in the res, they stick to the pump and under the hood thing on the pump inlet.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11789083*
> About 95% overnight, but in the res, they stick to the pump and under the hood thing on the pump inlet.


Yeah. Very true. I solved that by adding more water.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11789100*
> Yeah. Very true. I solved that by adding more water.


Lol im pretty much topped off i got maybe a few drops of water is all i could add lol.


----------



## fr0st.

Yeah I don't think I've ever been past 1.3V.
Sometimes I put it on auto voltage, over clock the frequency and then see what the voltage runs, then go like 0.2-0.1V less than that.

Highest I've ever been was 4.2GHz HT on, I went back to 3.8GHz because my Mega was stressing out a bit :/


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Balsagna*


Alrighty, here's and update after redoing the voltage and and maintaining 4ghz.









How does that look? Better?


Bump your vCore a notch or two. An i7 at 4GHz should be netting way more than 46GFlops. 
Temps are better though, much less deviation from the norm.


----------



## Unauthorized

I'm using the Rasa 750 kit with distilled water. Is it normal for the clear tubing to turn brownish-green? The distilled water in the reservoir is crystal clear.


----------



## kingofyo1

did you forget a kill coil or pt nuke? also do you have any of the discoloration at just the middle of the tubing or is it at the block as well?


----------



## mbudden

My tubing has turned brown as well. It's just the tubing... Blah. It's a sore to look at haha. Time to get better tubing


----------



## Unauthorized

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


did you forget a kill coil or pt nuke? also do you have any of the discoloration at just the middle of the tubing or is it at the block as well?


I'm using PTNuke. The discoloration is consistent throughout every inch of the tubing. I'll see if I can get a picture.


----------



## mbudden

Near my barbs. They are clearer than the middle of the tubing.
Someone posted earlier what the exact word is. But I forgot.


----------



## Jonesey I7

These should be good fans right? 6 in push pull with shrouds?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185059


----------



## mbudden

I was looking at these.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa2.html


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I was looking at these.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa2.html


gtalk convo links ftw ^^


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I was looking at these.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa2.html


My problem is I have to get them through the egg, cause I have a gift card balance I'm spending on them. So the one's I picked are good though right?


----------



## kingofyo1

yeah, scythes are good. The more cfm you can push, the better your temps will be as long as you have enough exhaust for it


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


gtalk convo links ftw ^^


You know what's goodie








Had to pass out last night man. Sorry for leaving you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


My problem is I have to get them through the egg, cause I have a gift card balance I'm spending on them. So the one's I picked are good though right?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


yeah, scythes are good. The more cfm you can push, the better your temps will be as long as you have enough exhaust for it


Basically what he said. Scythes are good.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


You know what's goodie








Had to pass out last night man. Sorry for leaving you.

Basically what he said. Scythes are good.


eh bro its all good. I passed around 3 myself, got tired of staring at non-updating pages and went to bed. ran outta intarwebz


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


My problem is I have to get them through the egg, cause I have a gift card balance I'm spending on them. So the one's I picked are good though right?


Very weak static pressure on the ones you picked.

Did you do a google search on them to see what their static pressure was exactly? From what I remember those fans had terrible static pressure = not good for radiators/heatsinks.

A sort of general rule of thumb I noticed with fans: The thinner the blades, the worse the static pressure is.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Bump your vCore a notch or two. An i7 at 4GHz should be netting way more than 46GFlops. 
Temps are better though, much less deviation from the norm.


Alrighty, I'll do that now and post my results. I'll also post before/after results for links to the kit


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127*


Very weak static pressure on the ones you picked.

Did you do a google search on them to see what their static pressure was exactly? From what I remember those fans had terrible static pressure = not good for radiators/heatsinks.

A sort of general rule of thumb I noticed with fans: The thinner the blades, the worse the static pressure is.


Can anyone confirm this? I can't seem to find the exact static pressure for these fans. All I can find everywhere is that " enthusists can get extra air flow with their static pressure feature" HELP

These fans will also be shrouded so they won't be RIGHT up against the rad, if that makes any difference.


----------



## wheth4400

Alright Christmas passed and I have got it installed. I changed my rad though from the RS240 to the RX240. Here is a pic during leak testing, I will try to get a better pic as well as a few more later.


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Can anyone confirm this? I can't seem to find the exact static pressure for these fans. All I can find everywhere is that " enthusists can get extra air flow with their static pressure feature" HELP

These fans will also be shrouded so they won't be RIGHT up against the rad, if that makes any difference.


Ok I forgot that you are looking at the 120mm version. Back when I was doing research on these I was actually looking at the 140mm ones. In the 140mm size the slip streams were terrible, but in 120mm they are not too bad.

Check this post out.

The ones you got are decent but as you can see the Gentle Typhoons (GT-15s) are wayy better in terms of noise/static pressure ratio.

The GT-15s are rated at 28db and the Slip-Streams at 33db. Quite a significant difference.

But you're limited to Newegg only. With a shrouded push/pull setup though you should be pretty good actually.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11792567*
> These should be good fans right? 6 in push pull with shrouds?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185059


Lol i like these fans i got one and those things can near lift off i would put it on my rad if it wouldnt look wierd with all black and 1 white lol.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999344&cm_re=fm121-_-11-999-344-_-Product


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11793678*
> Lol i like these fans i got one and those things can near lift off i would put it on my rad if it wouldnt look wierd with all black and 1 white lol.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999344&cm_re=fm121-_-11-999-344-_-Product


Yea, but I don't want 6 different rpm controllers hanging out in my case, and I don't wanna spend almost 20 dollars a piece, when I can get all 6 1900rpm slipstreams for the amount on my gift card. I just see allllllllllllllllll the reviews of them failing in less than 6 months, and THAT is what is worrying me now.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

If i was you id wait till the ultra kaze 3000 come in stock at newegg their in your budget to. You will need to pickup longer screws to attach them to your rad tho.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11793982*
> If i was you id wait till the ultra kaze 3000 come in stock at newegg their in your budget to. You will need to pickup longer screws to attach them to your rad tho.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054


Too loud, I think the one's I'm ordering will be perfect on cfm/noise/static pressure. I just worry about failure rates.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11794123*
> Too loud, I think the one's I'm ordering will be perfect on cfm/noise/static pressure. I just worry about failure rates.


if you worry bout failure rates, buy a few hundred extra ^^ may cost ya though >.>


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11793678*
> Lol i like these fans i got one and those things can near lift off i would put it on my rad if it wouldnt look wierd with all black and 1 white lol.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999344&cm_re=fm121-_-11-999-344-_-Product


I have two of those in a box, some day I have to try what they will do with my 120 rad.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Im using 1 for my intake fan pushing air right to my rad when its off my temps go up 2-3c.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

GAH!!! FedEX knocked on my door and drove away while I was in the restroom!!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

ouch they didnt leave the package ? here they leave them on our porch.


----------



## mbudden

Interesting... They drop the package and leave a little sticker on the window saying it has been delivered.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

The sticker FedEX left said that the shipper requires a signature for delivery. I've had NewEgg deliver via UPS a couple of thousand dollars worth of PC parts in a single go w/o any signature and I've had Dell deliver via FedEX a laptop w/o a signature. WHY OH WHY DO I GET TORTURED LIKE THIS, :'(


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;11788083*
> I have a couple of questions about the 750 RS240 Kit.
> 
> *1.* This is most likely a stupid question, but isn't all I need after I buy the 750 RS240 kit is my TIM, the IandH silver Killcoil, and a gallon of distilled water?
> 
> I notice in the unboxing of the video that he had a bunch of Feser products too, like:
> "Feser Corrosion Blocker"
> "Feser Active UV Green Die"
> "Feser Ultra Pure Water"
> 
> Do I need all these products in order for it to work or do I just need TIM, killcoil, and distilled water?
> 
> *2.* Also, the fans that it comes with, do I use those as case fans or where do I put them? I am currently using Cooler Master Megaflow Red LED Fans in my HAF 922, and those fans don't have a red LED. :/
> 
> *3.* Last question.. Is there a manual that comes with the XPSC rasa 750 RS240 kit? I would like to get an overview as to how everything works. I'm 14 and I've never set up a watercooling kit before..
> 
> Thanks!


everything you need is in the box, you only need to buy distilled water and a biocide of choice.
The tim that comes with the kit isn't that bad if you don't want to buy anything.
It doesn't come with a instruction manual, but if you have some common sense it will make sense if you just look at it and study everything.

You don't need corrostion blocker or dye.
The fans get mounted on the rad for air flow to cool the rad.

Just take your time with it and don't rush anything.


----------



## mbudden

Whaaaa? That makes no sense. I had Fedex Home or whatever they call it deliver it. Didn't need no signature.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Just go pick it up from fedex hub.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheth4400;11793386*
> Alright Christmas passed and I have got it installed. I changed my rad though from the RS240 to the RX240. Here is a pic during leak testing, I will try to get a better pic as well as a few more later.


Did you see any increase in performance switching to the rx from rs? How much if so?


----------



## wheth4400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11795089*
> Did you see any increase in performance switching to the rx from rs? How much if so?


I never hooked up the RS Rad, I knew i was getting the kit, and had the RX ordered and ready to put in from the get go. I can say however, I am extremely happy with the results I am getting.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I think I'm gonna order me an rx rad. Someone wanna buy the rs360 from me?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11795223*
> I think I'm gonna order me an rx rad. Someone wanna buy the rs360 from me?


I have heard you don't get that much performance gain if you aren't pushing the heat output of the RS rad. So unless you absolutely need it, i don't think it is worth it.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11795255*
> I have heard you don't get that much performance gain if you aren't pushing the heat output of the RS rad. So unless you absolutely need it, i don't think it is worth it.


Roger, money saved.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

YA unless your cooling alot of stuff you dont need a rx rad and the other upside to the rx rad is you can run slower fans on it to keep it cool.


----------



## Jonesey I7

quick question.......... I found a 450w ups in my shop. WHat would happen if I used it with my sig rig? I guess the question is, I know my system doesn't use 450w at idle, and that's the only time it would NEED the ups, as I wouldn't be gaming or anything during a power outage causing storm. But with my 850w power supply, will it overload it just being plugged in?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11796094*
> quick question.......... I found a 450w ups in my shop. WHat would happen if I used it with my sig rig? I guess the question is, I know my system doesn't use 450w at idle, and that's the only time it would NEED the ups, as I wouldn't be gaming or anything during a power outage causing storm. But with my 850w power supply, will it overload it just being plugged in?


it wouldn't overload at idle, but it is possible if you started using some more power, but im not sure if 450 watt is how much it can put out, or how much it can put out on battery. I am thinking that is how much it puts out on battery.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11796166*
> it wouldn't overload at idle, but it is possible if you started using some more power, but im not sure if 450 watt is how much it can put out, or how much it can put out on battery. I am thinking that is how much it puts out on battery.


It's rather old, here's the link. I can't tell if it's a ups or battery back up, or what the differences are.

http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=bk650mc

*edit* Ok, it's a battery back up, not a ups. SO that should be ok to use right? Maybe i should go to the ups part of the forum lol, I just rather talk to you guys.


----------



## mbudden

Don't know anything about a UPS's or battery back ups. So don't expect help from me haha.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11794979*
> Just go pick it up from fedex hub.


Only problem with that is I have to wait for it to get there. I'm telling ya, it seems like the guy took off like a bat outta hell after he stuck the note to my door. Two entrances to my neighborhood and he was gone in 60 seconds it seems, I couldn't even chase him down.


----------



## wermad

FedEx can be a douche some times









If any one wants to change their tube, go w/ Primochill Primoflex (black, white, clear, uv red, uv blue, & uv green)

Look for fan controllers w/ high wattage per channel. My Lamptron "Fan-Atic" supports upto 60w per channel, that's a slew of fans on one channel (Im going to sell this super cheap along w/ my trusty x20-750 pump/res, any one's interested pm me







).

Can't wait for payday at the end of this week: Scythe Kaze Master Pro fan controller, Swiftech MCP355, XSPC dual bay res for single DDC, kill.coil (yes, Im not running silver, I forgot to purchase it initially, Im still relying on the "microbial" properties lined inside of the Primochill tube, this will wear out some time in the future so its not as permanent as the silver).


----------



## Chalupa

What's the difference between the RS and RX kits? I want to buy one of the kits, but what to know what's best for me.


----------



## mbudden

First add your specs of your system so we know what you have.
Click here, to do so.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa;11796992*
> What's the difference between the RS and RX kits? I want to buy one of the kits, but what to know what's best for me.


The RX is has a thicker radiator which can dissipate more heat. If you're running a loop bigger than 1 CPU and 1 GPU, I'd go with an RX240 or higher.


----------



## Chalupa

I haven't ordered my system yet, but this is what I'm looking at. I plan on adding a second gpu at some point, but I can't afford that at this time.

Let's say I buy the RX360. What else will I need to buy with the kit?

Case - Cooler Master's HAF 932
Water Cooling -
Processor - Intel i7 2600k
Graphics Card - eVGA GTX 570
Motherboard - Gigabyte UD4
Memory -
Hard Drive - Samsung F3
Power Supply - Corsair AX750


----------



## mbudden

Basically a killcoil or PT nuke and distilled water. That's about it.
Everything comes with the kit. Tubing, fans, res/pump, and rad.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa;11796992*
> What's the difference between the RS and RX kits? I want to buy one of the kits, but what to know what's best for me.


the rad the rx is a thicker rad then the rs.

To wermad im using the primochill white tubbing its nice and you can do pretty good bends with it without it kinking.


----------



## Chalupa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11797185*
> Basically a killcoil or PT nuke and distilled water. That's about it.
> Everything comes with the kit. Tubing, fans, res/pump, and rad.


What would you recommend for me? I plan on ordering the RX360 from jab-tech.com.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

should add their silver coil and you would be set.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa;11797238*
> What would you recommend for me? I plan on ordering the RX360 from jab-tech.com.


What do you mean? I just use distilled water and a silver killcoil.







Simple and easy.


----------



## Chalupa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11797271*
> What do you mean? I just use distilled water and a silver killcoil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Simple and easy.


Maybe it's me, but I can't find a silvercoil at jab-tech.com.

And will this do the trick? http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-PC-Ice-With-UV-Green-Dye-Bomb-pr-3541.html


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa;11797385*
> Maybe it's me, but I can't find a silvercoil at jab-tech.com.
> 
> And will this do the trick? http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-PC-Ice-With-UV-Green-Dye-Bomb-pr-3541.html


Found it









http://www.jab-tech.com/Antimicrobial-Silver-Strip-pr-4530.html

You don't want to use dye in your loop, could gunk it up and could also void warranties.


----------



## Chalupa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11797405*
> Found it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Antimicrobial-Silver-Strip-pr-4530.html
> 
> You don't want to use dye in your loop, could gunk it up and could also void warranties.


Ah









There isn't another option for a cool looking tube?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa;11797423*
> Ah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There isn't another option for a cool looking tube?












http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html

the kit comes with ~3m's (9ft) of tubing.
I had over a foot left over.
It's not the greatest. I'm getting new tubing myself.


----------



## Chalupa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11797498*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html
> 
> the kit comes with ~3m's (9ft) of tubing.
> I had over a foot left over.
> It's not the greatest. I'm getting new tubing myself.


Yeah, I want to get the new tubing. So, you recommend around 9ft then? The kit I'm looking at supposedly only has 2 meters of tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa;11797385*
> Maybe it's me, but I can't find a silvercoil at jab-tech.com.
> 
> And will this do the trick? http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-PC-Ice-With-UV-Green-Dye-Bomb-pr-3541.html


They sell a silver strip, their site does not have have a pic for:
(under "additives", "Antimicrobial Silver Strip")

http://jab-tech.com/Antimicrobial-Silver-Strip-pr-4530.html


----------



## mbudden

I beat you there wermad


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11797626*
> I beat you there wermad












My work pc is sluggish, im lucky that I even have access to ocn, most sites are blocked


----------



## Balsagna

So how would you guys recommend emptying out the fluid? Unhooking a hose or using the res to drain?


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11797680*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My work pc is sluggish, im lucky that I even have access to ocn, most sites are blocked


Ditto, many sites are blocked for me as well.


----------



## Chalupa

How many inches of tubing do I need? The kit comes with only 2 meters.

mubudden said his kit came with 3 meters and he had about foot leftover. The RX360 kit comes with 2 meters (6ft). I want to use Primoflex's tubing instead. Should I go with 2 meters (6ft) or 3 meters (9ft)?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

they all come with 2 meters 6.5 feet it should be fine aslong as you dont waste any.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11797680*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My work pc is sluggish, im lucky that I even have access to ocn, most sites are blocked


There is always a way around it.... That's if you don't have a government job. Then I would not try it anyways.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna;11797780*
> So how would you guys recommend emptying out the fluid? Unhooking a hose or using the res to drain?


That's what I will be doing. Unhooking a hose and letting it drain into a bowl or something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa;11798206*
> How many inches of tubing do I need? The kit comes with only 2 meters.
> 
> mubudden said his kit came with 3 meters and he had about foot leftover. The RX360 kit comes with 2 meters (6ft). I want to use Primoflex's tubing instead. Should I go with 2 meters (6ft) or 3 meters (9ft)?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11798257*
> they all come with 2 meters 6.5 feet it should be fine aslong as you dont waste any.


Ah. My bizzle. I thought it was 3m's. I guess it's 2m's. & I had a foot left over. Plus more because I didn't cut off a lot of the excess. I just wanted the loop together haha.


----------



## Chalupa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11798334*
> There is always a way around it.... That's if you don't have a government job. Then I would not try it anyways.
> 
> That's what I will be doing. Unhooking a hose and letting it drain into a bowl or something.
> 
> Ah. My bizzle. I thought it was 3m's. I guess it's 2m's. & I had a foot left over. Plus more because I didn't cut off a lot of the excess. I just wanted the loop together haha.


So 7-8 feet should be more than enough then?

Also, I forgot to ask. Why do I want that Silvercoil?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa;11798406*
> So 7-8 feet should be more than enough then?
> 
> Also, I forgot to ask. Why do I want that Silvercoil?


Eh. Just get 2m's. 6ft. You should have enough.









Taken from Petra's Tech Shop.
Quote:


> iandh's KillCoils are approx. 1.3g of pure *anti-algae/antimicrobial ass kickery* in the form of 0.999 fine silver! The tightly wound helical shape (about 11.4mm OD) lends itself to easy insertion into tubing and many reservoirs while, at the same time, being just large enough to prevent passing through fittings and into your cooling components.


The bold sums it up.


----------



## wermad

6 ft is plenty for a cpu only loop (even w/ a gpu), unless you have a unique setup that requires more. If you have a seamstress measuring tape (or just use some rope/string and measure that), use that to plan your loop.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i used probly 7 feet and im running cpu and gpu and i added a tline with some tubbing to make a drain line which is a waste of time lol when i tried to drain it my rad held all its fluid till i moved my pc and it spilled out in my case lol.


----------



## leochen

I want to buy the RS240 kit so bad but I need a car first lol.


----------



## Jonesey I7

REALLY depends on how and where you're mounting your rad. If it's externally mounted like mine, it took almost 8 1/2 - 9 ft to do. But I also cool gpu as well as cpu.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

That is true alot of how much you need goes into how your case is setup and where your planning on putting the rad. Im lucky the person befor me modded the case i bought so it can fit a 360 on top and 240 on bottom and a 120 in the rear without me doing any extra work.


----------



## Jonesey I7

p.s..... I ended up buying these.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835200028

They actually beat the slipstreams down in every aspect of the game, static pressure, cfm, noise, and durability. Just didn't want to take anymore chances with sleeve bearings, and hey, they blue will match QUITE well....


----------



## Bal3Wolf

your joking lol you was worried about syth id be 1000x more worried about getting dead rosewill fans lol they are a cheap brand. You woulda been better off getting cheap yate loons from jab-tech then buying somthing else on newegg.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


your joking lol you was worried about syth id be 1000x more worried about getting dead rosewill fans lol they are a cheap brand. You woulda been better off getting cheap yate loons from jab-tech then buying somthing else on newegg.


I've owned about 7 different rose's, and none have every died or been doa. They were the best I could find after hours of searching the egg and comparing. And aren't the yate loons sleeve bearing fans too?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i had a psu from them and it didnt last long lol i woulda sold the giftcard and got yateloons for 3.60 a fan.


----------



## Jonesey I7

well I just cancelled it lol. I'll trade you my gift card, which has approx. $53 and change from Egg, for $40 paypal.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

These are the fans id get 4 eggs on 450 people buying them Scythe SY1225SL12SH
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185060


----------



## urdeath007

jeez guys broke 100 pages since my last visit.

Got my rasa kit today along with my other purchases....minus a gpu block for my 480.

I'm currently mentally debating starting now or waiting what could be week(s) as I look at a possible PSU rma along with a gpu rma due to the CM 1000 SilentPro has been on the low side. Not giving nearly enough power to the computer. So here I am debating it all.

-A.) **** it do it now
-B.) Wait until all RMA business is done & a possible step-up via evga to a 580 :S (I must admit to curiosity to if it's possible to receive a part back from them then put it through step-up. Curious but perhaps someone has heard if it is. :S meh)
-C.) Set it up now w/o water just loops n all to wait to see how the RMA goes then put everything in w/ a gpu n gpu block
-D.) Just go sleep n put all these boxes out of sight for a day.

Oy.

Can't help but debate it as I have the remainder of this week, minus work, until courses start again. During which I'll be too busy & requiring the computer to be able to do this until next break in Feb.







So I'm leaning to just doing this & moving my OS drive n psu at the end of it all to my older rig so I can still use a computer. Blah mental debate.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


These are the fans id get 4 eggs on 450 people buying them Scythe SY1225SL12SH
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185060


I've used one as a fan for my heatsink originally then as a case fan. They move lots of air but the static pressure isn't that great. Still, they're a quality fan for the price IMO, I'd buy more if I needed to replace any 120mm case fans.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I thk jonesy is gonna sell the gift card and get yate loons from jab-tech i know my yate loon highs are pushing a ton of air with them in push pull on my rad.


----------



## Jonesey I7

bump lol


----------



## kingofyo1

lol jonesey...

In other news, no leaks since changing the loop to add the water block which i cant use but come the 30th i'm going to grab an evga gtx 460 768 for 175 from best buy


----------



## KGIXXER7

my kit should be here tomorrow, but will have to wait for the new 800 D coming on tuesday. Def alot of good info in here for installing the kit

looking forward to joining the club


----------



## Jonesey I7

So, anyone of my fellow club member want to take advantage of a $12 dollar profit? I have a newegg gift card that will have $54 and some change on it at SOME point today (HURRY UP NEWEGG!!) and I'll let one of you guys have it for $42 paypal? Pm me.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

so you used the gift card then canceled it they might give it back to you in paypal if your lucky. It normaly newegg 3 days to refund also.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11807051*
> so you used the gift card then canceled it they might give it back to you in paypal if your lucky. It normaly newegg 3 days to refund also.


it was not charged, only ordered as I ordered late, and cancelled within 10 mins. And I used my credit card, as the funds weren't scheduled to hit the gift card until today


----------



## jam3s

so I sucessfully set up my RX360 kit.

Gaming temps are 26, 26, 21, 24 idle and 34, 34, 28, 33 c load.

This is at stock 2.4GHz at 1.31v.

With linX 20 passes temps are 28, 28, 23, 27 idle and 47, 47, 43, 43 load



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## urdeath007

anyone mind reposting that video of the person setting up the rasa 360 kit. I know I saw it somewhere but I must be blind as I'm not finding it.

In other news I started modifying my case to get the rad in snug n already got the pump/res in after some tweaking to the case. The sliders were a few mm to long inside the 5.25 bay area so I had to file em back a ways so that it wouldn't trouble the pump/res.

I have quite the accumulating pile of fans now I've noticed. Figure I'll use 3 of em to make it a pushpull config so I don't have to have a bag just of fans after this n don't have to buy any for the time being. Lol.


----------



## Jonesey I7

pg 7 i believe


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11807144*
> so I sucessfully set up my RX360 kit.
> 
> Gaming temps are 26, 26, 21, 24 idle and 34, 34, 28, 33 c load.
> 
> This is at stock 2.4GHz at 1.31v.
> 
> With linX 20 passes temps are 28, 28, 23, 27 idle and 47, 47, 43, 43 load
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


hey James, you should post some pics of your setup so we can add em to the spreadsheet


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11808089*
> hey James, you should post some pics of your setup so we can add em to the spreadsheet


ok,









Pics on the way


----------



## Sainesk

is there any better kit in this price range to get as an introduction to water cooling?

i'm thinking of the RS120, does it at least out perform a H70?

and apart from the kit all I would need is a killcoil/distilled water right? where can I find those?

edit: would these work, I think i'm too lazy to go looking around in stores







killcoil, water (yep, i'm in canada)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11808228*
> is there any better kit in this price range to get as an introduction to water cooling?
> 
> i'm thinking of the RS120, does it at least out perform a H70?
> 
> and apart from the kit all I would need is a killcoil/distilled water right? where can I find those?


the RS kits from xspc are probably some of the best water coolers for the price, i would say go with the RS240, you will be glad you did.


----------



## kingofyo1

heck you could even fit a rs360 in that case easily if you wanted to.


----------



## urdeath007

Hey so I've been taking it slow due to some distractions.

Anyways for the Southbride & Northbridge block it only specifies putting thermal pad on the southbridge. Kinda surprised but just figured I'd ask to see what I can find out. I have an EK nickel + acetel piece.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11808285*
> heck you could even fit a rs360 in that case easily if you wanted to.


the only reason i recommended the rs240 instead of the rs360 is because he seems to want to save a little case on the whole deal, and an RS240 would be great for just a cpu.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11808313*
> Hey so I've been taking it slow due to some distractions.
> 
> Anyways for the Southbride & Northbridge block it only specifies putting thermal pad on the southbridge. Kinda surprised but just figured I'd ask to see what I can find out. I have an EK nickel + acetel piece.


even if the directions don't say to put TIM on a block, you really should. Was there TIM on the stock heatsink? If so, then yea just put a dab on there.


----------



## urdeath007

blah. :S They supplied me with thermal pad .5mm enough to split a small square on both bridges by cutting the pad in half. So I'm debating doing just that. All the mobo had on the heatsinks was thermal padding on both. :O In the meantime I have 3 pcs of thermal paste rolling around now that I've been derailed, sidetracked and distracted over the course of the day. So now to locate the buggers.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11808508*
> blah. :S They supplied me with thermal pad .5mm enough to split a small square on both bridges by cutting the pad in half. So I'm debating doing just that. All the mobo had on the heatsinks was thermal padding on both. :O In the meantime I have 3 pcs of thermal paste rolling around now that I've been derailed, sidetracked and distracted over the course of the day. So now to locate the buggers.


I would do a test fit with paste and see if it spreads. If not use the pad.


----------



## urdeath007

Will do. Found one of my thermal pastes. 1 out of 4 (3 were supplied with parts, 2 from this recent purchase). Thoughts on using Artic Silver over what comes with these parts? I'm going to use some of the stuff that came w/ it anyways for test fit just because. Anyways taking photos along the way.

Other than that. Note to self: Don't put Thermal Paste on top of your computer as it will blend into your computer n you won't notice it.







True story though.


----------



## townending

Finally got around taking pictues:


----------



## urdeath007

from the looks of it most users have just mounted their xspc cpu bracket on so that the letters are readable/horizontal. In being towards the back & out towards the front.

Or what is the common preference for ease of use on tubing/eye appealing. For test fitting I put it on as state above. :S


----------



## JMCB

I think I may have a problem. I have my watercooling set up as follows:

Res/Pump > CPU block > Rad > Back to Res/Pump

Is this going to cause a problem?

Also, with the tubing that comes in the kit, do you think I could substitute it with 3/4inch ext ID and 1/2in in ID, and use the same barbs? I was at the hardware store and noticed that the tubing there was much clearer, and I thought about getting it. Also, for the res, I had a hard time getting it in the 700D case, so much that it is stuck. What would be the best way to drain the bastard, since I can't just yank on a tube.


----------



## [Adz]

There's no problem with that loop order. The normal is to have the rad before the cpu block, but it doesn't make much of a difference. 
1/2" ID tubes will work since the barbs supplied are 1/2", but you'll need to fasten them with clips or zip ties etc.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JMCB*


I think I may have a problem. I have my watercooling set up as follows:

Res/Pump > CPU block > Rad > Back to Res/Pump

Is this going to cause a problem?

Also, with the tubing that comes in the kit, do you think I could substitute it with 3/4inch ext ID and 1/2in in ID, and use the same barbs? I was at the hardware store and noticed that the tubing there was much clearer, and I thought about getting it. Also, for the res, I had a hard time getting it in the 700D case, so much that it is stuck. What would be the best way to drain the bastard, since I can't just yank on a tube.


Any tubing with 1/2in ID will work with the supplied barbs.

just so you know a tubing has OD and ID, which stands for Outer diameter and Inter diameter. Just thought I would educated you on that.
with the res and pump together it really doesn't matter how the loop is ordered, as long as you have the water going in the inlet on the cpu block and out the outlet.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Should stick with the 7/16 5/8 sence it seals tight on 1/2 barbs tho makes it less of a worry for a leak.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I replaced the 7/16 tubing with 1/2 tubing, and I sprung a small leak on first turn on. Then I bought the metal clamps that seal with a flat head screw driver. Now no leaks, and much better flow. And it looks better IMO, those big fat tubes running around. D)

P.S..... i got my new tubing from home depot as well, out of the plumbing department. It is soooooooooooooo much better at anti kink than the stock stuff it's not even funny, can make clear 90degree bends, and no kink whatsoever.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

same with primochill its antikink.


----------



## JMCB

Add me to the club...


----------



## B16T33

Add me to the list









Sorry for the terrible quality shots, d5000 is nonoperational atm..


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B16T33*


Add me to the list









Sorry for the terrible quality shots, d5000 is nonoperational atm..


where's the pull on your "push/pull"? All that air for a water cooled pc.... tisk tisk tisk.


----------



## urdeath007

Is it http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ that accepts "facebook" as a discount code or if not what is one for them before I grab my EK Nickel & Acetal gpu block? Had someone I was gonna buy one from but the seller backed out so looking at $130 vs $75 for a new one.

Got it setup once but will be trying other approaches to mounting the radiator & the push/pull fans til I get the block. I just simply don't want to have to deal with removing the liquid from the loop when it arrives.

Thanks for your time & consideration. Will put up pics when the loop is complete & I start playing with UV lighting.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

jab-tech acepts facebook they dont sell much in blocks tho. Frozencpu has a coupon code tho they might have the block.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

What do you know, FedEX actually read the sign I put on my door "I work nights and sleep days. Please call xxx-xxxx if making a delivery needing a signature or for emergencies". They still needed a signature though.

I'm setting things up right now but have 3 things to take care of or ask questions about first;

To do - modify an old backplate for installing the cpu block. I'm not comfortable with just 4 screws holding it against my mobo
Question - Has anybody lapped the cpu block and, most importantly, has it made ANY difference. I know I said I'd do it earlier, but after reading somebody who did a nonscientific comparison said it made no difference, I have wonder if it is worth my time.
Question - I noticed a number of people running the hoses to the back of their case (especially you HAF932 guys), why? Does it matter? I haven't run the hose yet, so I can still change it if I want.
After all this is done, I should be ready to do a Prime95 burn in the next couple of days.









EDIT: Just did a razor blade check of the cpu waterblock surface, less than a single hair width of light came through and smooth as a baby's bottom (that's less than 5 thousands of an inch for those who don't know or less than a cigarette paper in width). I'd call that damn good and say that I got real lucky with probably one of the flattest blocks off the line given all the convex ones I keep reading about.


----------



## B16T33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


where's the pull on your "push/pull"? All that air for a water cooled pc.... tisk tisk tisk.










Two other fans should be here tomorrow. But yea I do have a lot more fans than i need for the setup, but I like the color scheme with the blue LEDs too much









I still have some cable management left to do and havnt even begun with the heatshrink tubing yet...But hey, I would rather have work yet to be done than nothing to do


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B16T33;11813668*
> Two other fans should be here tomorrow. But yea I do have a lot more fans than i need for the setup, but I like the color scheme with the blue LEDs too much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have some cable management left to do and havnt even begun with the heatshrink tubing yet...But hey, I would rather have work yet to be done than nothing to do


Customization of a rig is never really "done". It's merely postponed for $ reasons.









Also thank you Bal3Wolf for answering yet another of my questions & quite quickly too. Thanks!









I totally forgot that if you give them a reseller rating you get a discount.







Two orders from them already so used one of my codes. Down to 107.35. Glad to have that done. (their shipping price costs more vs other sites & arrives later than other orders placed later. Will get back to that later after sleep & work. TTYL, n have a gnite.


----------



## fr0st.

I'm about to buy mine, it's near the start of the week for the US so it should be shipped out by the end of the week and get to my place in Australia within the next week, hopefully.

I just saw that I had 150$ worth of compression fitting in my cart, so I'm now just going to get barbs to save myself some cash.

RX360, here I come!









Also, is there any downfalls to mounting the Rasa block so the inlet is on top vertically?


----------



## Gothic-Yoshi

Im buying my kit in bout a week does anyone know the OD of the tubes that come with this kit as i was going to buy sum compression fittings, iknow the ID is 7/16th's thx


----------



## Raji8

How hard is a install with these kits? And is the pump of good quality/is it going to burn out in 2 days like the one DD slim pump (don't remember the name) that came with the WC in my PC resulting in me needing to put the stock AMD HSF on this 955....

Also opinions on quality, ease of install, important information etc. is always welcome. Thanks guys (and possibly girls?)


----------



## mbudden

Install? Easy as pie. Pump is of good quality.
Mine has been running 24/7 since I installed it. And it's running perfectly fine.

When you order the kit and have everything infront of you. Everything is pretty much self explanatory.







But if you find yourself having questions, feel free to ask.


----------



## Raji8

Alright man, thank you very much. I will be sure to ask plenty of questions should I need too









Edit: Where'd you get your kit from? FrozenCPU or somewhere else?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11813666*
> What do you know, FedEX actually read the sign I put on my door "I work nights and sleep days. Please call xxx-xxxx if making a delivery needing a signature or for emergencies". They still needed a signature though.
> 
> I'm setting things up right now but have 3 things to take care of or ask questions about first;
> 
> To do - modify an old backplate for installing the cpu block. I'm not comfortable with just 4 screws holding it against my mobo
> Question - Has anybody lapped the cpu block and, most importantly, has it made ANY difference. I know I said I'd do it earlier, but after reading somebody who did a nonscientific comparison said it made no difference, I have wonder if it is worth my time.
> Question - I noticed a number of people running the hoses to the back of their case (especially you HAF932 guys), why? Does it matter? I haven't run the hose yet, so I can still change it if I want.
> After all this is done, I should be ready to do a Prime95 burn in the next couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just did a razor blade check of the cpu waterblock surface, less than a single hair width of light came through and smooth as a baby's bottom (that's less than 5 thousands of an inch for those who don't know or less than a cigarette paper in width). I'd call that damn good and say that I got real lucky with probably one of the flattest blocks off the line given all the convex ones I keep reading about.


Looks like I missed your post.

I believe someone has lapped their CPU block. But they also lapped their CPU and said it gave them 6C difference, but he also said that his CPU was really convex/concave, can't remember. As for hoses running out of the case, that's because they probably back mounted their rad and hoses need to be run outside








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raji8;11815410*
> Alright man, thank you very much. I will be sure to ask plenty of questions should I need too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Where'd you get your kit from? FrozenCPU or somewhere else?


I bought it from FrozenCPU because they are in NY and I'm in PA. Took only a day to get here... But they sent me the RS360 instead of RS240. Took only a day for them to ship out a new one for me.

There is also a discount code on the OP.









EDIT: I also added whomever requested to be added.
If you have a question and you have been skipped over, bump it. I'll get to it


----------



## Balsagna

The only downside of the kit is it doesn't come with instructions, but like stated, it's really self explanatory.

When I set mine up. I first installed the barbs in everything, mounted the pump and Rad where I needed them to go. Installed the back plate and CPU block.

Attached the hoses and make sure that they were a little longer to avoid any kinks (The tubing that came with the kit isn't the best in my opinion)

filled er up, let er bleed and leak test and wala. The pump in the res seems to be working just fine and I can't even hear mine at all!


----------



## Raji8

Question, since this kit doesn't come with any fluid do I just buy say Feser One and then fill the loop with that? Or something similiar...


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raji8;11815583*
> Question, since this kit doesn't come with any fluid do I just buy say Feser One and then fill the loop with that? Or something similiar...


Eh. You could...

I just used Distilled water. Make sure you pick up PT Nuke or a Silver KillCoil to add to your loop to prevent algae growth


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna;11815495*
> wala.


Voila. x)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffstuff;11578937*
> went to install mine last and gotta wait now the 2nd scythe gt hits the ram clipes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered up two yates loons that are 120x20 hoping they will fit otherwise I might just go external with the radiator.


Was this the RS240 + 25mm fans?


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gothic-Yoshi;11815247*
> Im buying my kit in bout a week does anyone know the OD of the tubes that come with this kit as i was going to buy sum compression fittings, iknow the ID is 7/16th's thx


I'm like 80% sure it's 3/4OD. I'll look it up.

EDIT: Can't find it where I thought I saw it before? Are you looking to get compression fittings are something?


----------



## mbudden

5/8th OD.


----------



## xSalvation

Dont know if its been asked yet but what is the difference between the RS360 and the RX360.

Also how would the 360 with 6 3k Ultra Kaze's compare to a NH-D14 with 2 3k Ultra Kaze's


----------



## mbudden

RX rads are thicker than the RS rads. Meaning it will be able to cool more if you decide to add more components.

& I'm not too sure.


----------



## xSalvation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11816496*
> RX rads are thicker than the RS rads. Meaning it will be able to cool more if you decide to add more components.
> 
> & I'm not too sure.


OK that justifies the price.

Ive gotten 2 answers so far for the latter question; one said it was about the same, another said 5-10c cooler.

Also i wonder if the RX360 would fit into the top of my HAF X


----------



## mbudden

Well, the rad dimensions are this.

125mm x 58.5mm x 410mm (LxWxH)

Now add the height of 2x 120x35mm fans. (Not sure what Ultra Kaze heights are)
and then take some measurements inside your case and see if they fit.

I know someone has a HAF X. Not sure if they have the RS360/RX360 case though.

EDIT: No one has it in the HAF X from what I can see. Everyone either has a HAF 922 or a HAF 932.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11606453*
> And you need to add coupon code facebook for jabtech and i did your work for you lol 2 links are below for rx240 and rx360. Also you have a rs360 listed under jab-tech they dont sell them they only sell the rs240 rx240 and rx360.
> 
> http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-CPU-watercooling-kit-pr-4780.html#
> 
> http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX240-CPU-watercooling-kit-pr-4779.html


Still have 101 pages of posts to read but if I am repeating this info, please forgive me.

I am about to order from Jab-Tech and was going to go for the RS240 kit. When I went to add it to the cart I see it has an option to it so I checked it out. You can upgrade the RS240 kit to a RS360 kit for only $20 more (total $149). So muich fore the internal install. Going external install with the RS360. Just waiting for Jab-Tech to answer a question for me and I will be ordering shortly.

Will request my inclusion into the club here shortly. Thanks to all for the posts and pix. Has helped me to take the plunge. Wish I could rep you all in just one click... let's see what Uncle Kah here can do about that.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11816812*
> Still have 101 pages of posts to read but if I am repeating this info, please forgive me.
> 
> I am about to order from Jab-Tech and was going to go for the RS240 kit. When I went to add it to the cart I see it has an option to it so I checked it out. You can upgrade the RS240 kit to a RS360 kit for only $20 more (total $149). So muich fore the internal install. Going external install with the RS360. Just waiting for Jab-Tech to answer a question for me and I will be ordering shortly.
> 
> Will request my inclusion into the club here shortly. Thanks to all for the posts and pix. Has helped me to take the plunge. Wish I could rep you all in just one click... let's see what Uncle Kah here can do about that.


Jab-Tech doesn't sell the RS360 from what I know. But if there is an option, then so be it. I'd just contact them first before you make the purchase.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11816837*
> Jab-Tech doesn't sell the RS360 from what I know. But if there is an option, then so be it. I'd just contact them first before you make the purchase.


That's what I am doing seeing that everyone (on this forum and elsewhere) seem to say the same... no RS360 at Jab-Tech.

Will advise upon receipt of their answer.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11816991*
> That's what I am doing seeing that everyone (on this forum and elsewhere) seem to say the same... no RS360 at Jab-Tech.
> 
> Will advise upon receipt of their answer.


Sounds good







If not and you're content on getting the RS360. FrozenCPU does sell it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11817250*
> Sounds good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not and you're content on getting the RS360. FrozenCPU does sell it.


Yep... but since I am in Puerto Rico, looking at the cheapest possible shipping cost. No carrier wants to come here by ground service for some odd reason... :-(

So, If I get the RS360, the Indigo TIM and the silver coil I should be good to go once I buy some distilled water locally, right?

I know that the Indigo may be a bit expensive but my ambient temps in the summer here are upwards of 87*F (+/-31*C) constant with the hottest part of the summer averaging 90*F (32*C) easily. Have had a real hard time keeping decent temps in the summer time.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11817250*
> Sounds good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not and you're content on getting the RS360. FrozenCPU does sell it.


Here is the "official" response to my query on the RS360 kit at Jab-Tech...

"_Victor,

The only difference between the RS240 and RS360 kit is the Radiator, Additional Fan and fan grill. So we're currently just switching the rad, and adding the fan and grill.

John
JAB Computers
www.jab-tech.com_"

Just add $20 to the RS240 pricing at this time.

I feel an update coming up!!!


----------



## mbudden

Very interesting


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11813666*
> What do you know, FedEX actually read the sign I put on my door "I work nights and sleep days. Please call xxx-xxxx if making a delivery needing a signature or for emergencies". They still needed a signature though.
> 
> I'm setting things up right now but have 3 things to take care of or ask questions about first;
> 
> To do - modify an old backplate for installing the cpu block. I'm not comfortable with just 4 screws holding it against my mobo
> Question - Has anybody lapped the cpu block and, most importantly, has it made ANY difference. I know I said I'd do it earlier, but after reading somebody who did a nonscientific comparison said it made no difference, I have wonder if it is worth my time.
> Question - I noticed a number of people running the hoses to the back of their case (especially you HAF932 guys), why? Does it matter? I haven't run the hose yet, so I can still change it if I want.
> After all this is done, I should be ready to do a Prime95 burn in the next couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just did a razor blade check of the cpu waterblock surface, less than a single hair width of light came through and smooth as a baby's bottom (that's less than 5 thousands of an inch for those who don't know or less than a cigarette paper in width). I'd call that damn good and say that I got real lucky with probably one of the flattest blocks off the line given all the convex ones I keep reading about.


I did a post about that earlier in the thread.
http://www.overclock.net/11585144-post62.html
there you go. should be exactly what you need.


----------



## mistax

=( i might be in a jifffy my plans to buy rx 360 + ek 470 block might not come to fruitation. Lacking funds right now. Any good alternative to watercooling atm the run the 970. Havent put the system together yet.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11818829*
> =( i might be in a jifffy my plans to buy rx 360 + ek 470 block might not come to fruitation. Lacking funds right now. Any good alternative to watercooling atm the run the 970. Havent put the system together yet.


Budget?

If you still plan on WC'ing then the full XSPC kits (~$130-$200).

If you are thinking air... I can recommend the Thermaltake FRIO. I am happy with it from an AC'ing point of view. Works great with my 1090T. Not sure about the 970 (which I believe is a 140W CPU, right?) but it should work just as good. Reasonably priced. If you still plan on WC'ing later on it won't hurt as much setting it aside as a back up cooling unit. It is presently helping me reach 4Ghz.


----------



## mistax

I could get the RS360 kit for 150 and than wiat for the 470 block. or get a rx360.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Bought...

Just acquired:

RS360 @ $149.95
Indigo Extreme TIM @ $17.95
8" Silver Coil @ $4.95

"Facebook" discount @ -$8.65

Shipping @ $27.95

Total hit: $192.15

Will submit pictures later on upon receipt so I can be officially inducted into the XSPC Rasa club.


----------



## LocoJason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11815463*
> Looks like I missed your post.
> 
> I believe someone has lapped their CPU block. But they also lapped their CPU and said it gave them 6C difference, but he also said that his CPU was really convex/concave, can't remember. As for hoses running out of the case, that's because they probably back mounted their rad and hoses need to be run outside


I lapped both my 965 BE CPU and rasa waterblock to a mirror shine. This took an entire package of 1500 grit and one very sore arm to do.

The rasa waterblock was FAR from flat, relatively convex but not extreme. It did have a couple substantial "dimples" in it that I noted during sanding.

The CPU was mildly concave. it took a lot less time than the waterblock.

Net difference was 0. Or at least it was not measurable. That was both a before/after comparison using the same conditions and looking at average temps since then.

I was using was is arguably 'the best' TIM currently available both before and after. For my rig, lapping was a waste of time and I would not recommend it to others.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocoJason;11819641*
> I lapped both my 965 BE CPU and rasa waterblock to a mirror shine. This took an entire package of 1500 grit and one very sore arm to do.
> 
> The rasa waterblock was FAR from flat, relatively convex but not extreme. It did have a couple substantial "dimples" in it that I noted during sanding.
> 
> The CPU was mildly concave. it took a lot less time than the waterblock.
> 
> Net difference was 0. Or at least it was not measurable. That was both a before/after comparison using the same conditions and looking at average temps since then.
> 
> I was using was is arguably 'the best' TIM currently available both before and after. For my rig, lapping was a waste of time and I would not recommend it to others.


This happened to me on my venerable 965BE and my previous air cooler. Swapped for the FRIO I now have and got better results without lapping the cooler. I decided that this time around with the 1090T, I would leave the CPU and the WB as is. Way too much work with no results.

NOTE: I am not saying that it does not work. I am basically saying that you need to do it right. Have seen way to many reports of lappers lowering temps by 1-3*C. I think that for that kind of drop, not worth it. Now, a 6C drop??? That's a whole different ball game there!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11818829*
> =( i might be in a jifffy my plans to buy rx 360 + ek 470 block might not come to fruitation. Lacking funds right now. Any good alternative to watercooling atm the run the 970. Havent put the system together yet.


You might be able to go with the rs360 kit and cool the gpu some users with it and i7 would need to chime in on their temps.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Bought...

Just acquired:

RS360 @ $149.95
Indigo Extreme TIM @ $17.95
8" Silver Coil @ $4.95

"Facebook" discount @ -$8.65

Shipping @ $27.95

Total hit: $192.15

Will submit pictures later on upon receipt so I can be officially inducted into the XSPC Rasa club.










Congrads! Try to take some before and after screen shots of your temps, as we really need more of those for the OP, and pics of the build


----------



## Jonesey I7

FINALLY got my yate loon high speeds ordered from Petra's today, should be here Friday. Already cut some 3in screws down to size today to mount them and the shrouds as well....... SUPER EXCITED. 2C OFF HERE I COME!!!


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raji8;11815583*
> Question, since this kit doesn't come with any fluid do I just buy say *Feser One* and then fill the loop with that? Or something similiar...


No. Many times no.
Use distilled water, and coloured tubes. Feser *will* gunk up your loop (and possibly void warranties on your blocks, especially EK).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSalvation;11816464*
> Dont know if its been asked yet but what is the difference between the RS360 and the RX360.
> 
> Also how would the 360 with 6 3k Ultra Kaze's compare to a NH-D14 with 2 3k Ultra Kaze's


I'd say you're looking at anywhere between 5-10c cooler with a 360 rad. I base that on the fact that, on average, the kit gets 10-15c cooler than a H70/H50, which is on par with some of the top air coolers like Megahelems and Silver Arrow. The D14 tops the mega and silver arrow by a few degrees, and add in consideration for the 3k Ultra Kazes and you're looking around 5-10c cooler with 360 kit than the D14.

Actually, given that you're tripling the number of fans, I'd say an easy 10c, possibly even 15c if you go for the RX.


----------



## thrasherht

@Mbudden You should really put my post in the OP since I know a lot of the AMD guys want a backplate for their waterblock.

http://www.overclock.net/11585144-post62.html
Link for reference.


----------



## mbudden

I keep forgetting. Thanks for reminding me


----------



## jam3s

Hey mbudden and all you guys. Here's an update of my setup after putting all of it together last couple of days.

Idle *24, 24, 20, 24* load *51, 51, 46, 46* in LinX 50 passes high memory

This is with a overclock to 3.2GHz and my GTX 470 running at 800/1600/837



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here are some pics of my setup. Sorry about the light quality. On the one pic of my pump/res you can see my 8" silver kill coil lol



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## kingofyo1

pics added to spreadsheet sir


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


pics added to spreadsheet sir


thank you, kind sir


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


I did a post about that earlier in the thread.
http://www.overclock.net/11585144-post62.html
there you go. should be exactly what you need.


All I did was ream the holes and left the studs raised

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


No. Many times no. 
Use distilled water, and coloured tubes. Feser *will* gunk up your loop (and possibly void warranties on your blocks, especially EK).


I believe he's talking about the water and not the dye which will gunk up everything. I'd also recommend a good anticorrosive.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574*


All I did was ream the holes and left the studs raised

I believe he's talking about the water and not the dye which will gunk up everything. I'd also recommend a good anticorrosive.


I don't know. I went on the feser website... God that voice is creepy.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I'm here to testify that the dye, even only one or two drops like I had, will gunk VERY VERY quickly. I had mayhem's deep blue for less than 10 days, decided to replace the 7/16 with 1/2 tubing, and it was already muggy!! STAY AWAY FROM DYE'S AAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNDDDDDDDD COLORED FLUIDS


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I'm here to testify that the dye, even only one or two drops like I had, will gunk VERY VERY quickly. I had mayhem's deep blue for less than 10 days, decided to replace the 7/16 with 1/2 tubing, and it was already muggy!! STAY AWAY FROM DYE'S AAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNDDDDDDDD COLORED FLUIDS


yeah, after i heard like 3 people say that, I threw away the feser 1 uv dye that I bought for like 4.99


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


yeah, after i heard like 3 people say that, I threw away the feser 1 uv dye that I bought for like 4.99


Smart man. More than I can say for some that will STILL use the stuff on a hope and a dream that it won't happen to them.


----------



## kingofyo1

but science says that for one or two out of thousands, it wont happen to them ^^


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Smart man. More than I can say for some that will STILL use the stuff on a hope and a dream that it won't happen to them.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


but science says that for one or two out of thousands, it wont happen to them ^^


hahah, so, OT: how does everyone like my loop









I get P15xxx in Vantage and 17009 in 3DMark06 at 3.2GHz


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11823657*
> hahah, so, OT: how does everyone like my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get P15xxx in Vantage and 17009 in 3DMark06 at 3.2GHz


looks good. You do realize the res goes in the computer with the tubing facing into the computer.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Hokay, add me, the system is put together and I'm gonna give it a few days to settle in. Looks as though I used up the last of my good TIM (MX-3) so all I got left is the Thermalright, Prolimatech, and BARELY enough AS5 to do the job. The AS5 is old enough that I doubt it's working fully.

Pix below include a before and four after.

EDIT: MX-4 on order from NewEgg.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11823673*
> looks good. You do realize the res goes in the computer with the tubing facing into the computer.


funny, mine only goes in with the tubing facing outwards









actually, on second thought I probably could get it the other way

But I like it









Haha


----------



## xSalvation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11820506*
> I'd say you're looking at anywhere between 5-10c cooler with a 360 rad. I base that on the fact that, on average, the kit gets 10-15c cooler than a H70/H50, which is on par with some of the top air coolers like Megahelems and Silver Arrow. The D14 tops the mega and silver arrow by a few degrees, and add in consideration for the 3k Ultra Kazes and you're looking around 5-10c cooler with 360 kit than the D14.
> 
> Actually, given that you're tripling the number of fans, I'd say an easy 10c, possibly even 15c if you go for the RX.


Thanks for the reply......Now I just need to find a way to get it to fit........

58.5 for the rad
2x 38 for fans
maybe shrouds.....Nah

134.5mm in total

doubt that will fit....... Maybe i could get some smaller fans or the RS......Time to crunch some numbers


----------



## LocoJason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11820456*
> FINALLY got my yate loon high speeds ordered from Petra's today, should be here Friday. Already cut some 3in screws down to size today to mount them and the shrouds as well....... SUPER EXCITED. 2C OFF HERE I COME!!!


Man, I don't want to kill your excitement but you essentially have the same setup as me. 2 degrees maybe. Don't count on it. I just added 3 2000RPM pusher fans to mine and dropped a constant 1c under load. I then built a shroud for both sides out of cardboard as a test and dropped another 1c. The kicker is that with just the 3 medium speed pullers and the shroud (no pushers) it performed just as well as push/pull without the shroud (dropped 1 degree). So in terms of noise and efficiency, a shroud is a better deal than 3 more fans. Your results may vary, but give it a shot and see what you come up with.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocoJason;11824242*
> Man, I don't want to kill your excitement but you essentially have the same setup as me. 2 degrees maybe. Don't count on it. I just added 3 2000RPM pusher fans to mine and dropped a constant 1c under load. I then built a shroud for both sides out of cardboard as a test and dropped another 1c. The kicker is that with just the 3 medium speed pullers and the shroud (no pushers) it performed just as well as push/pull without the shroud (dropped 1 degree). So in terms of noise and efficiency, a shroud is a better deal than 3 more fans. Your results may vary, but give it a shot and see what you come up with.


But that's where we differ.... 1c off is win, 2c off is supreme victory. I'm already super temped, I want SUPERMAN temps!!!







48c max in linx 20 pass at my sig speeds.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11823440*
> I'm here to testify that the dye, even only one or two drops like I had, will gunk VERY VERY quickly. I had mayhem's deep blue for less than 10 days, decided to replace the 7/16 with 1/2 tubing, and it was already muggy!! STAY AWAY FROM DYE'S AAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNDDDDDDDD COLORED FLUIDS


Bal3Wolf and moi have been preaching this. Sometimes, you learn the hard way, so did I







Another example for those contemplating or currently running dyes/premixed. just say no to them and say yes to distilled + silver


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11824349*
> Bal3Wolf and moi have been preaching this. Sometimes, you learn the hard way, so did I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another example for those contemplating or currently running dyes/premixed. just say no to them and say yes to distilled + silver


Yea lol iv told people 100 times already in last 2 weeks get yourself some uv or colorer tubing if you want colors. And on another note i finaly cleaned up my wireing it looks alot cleaner i might try to clean up a little more but dont see anything else i can do.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11822221*


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11824453*


yeah, I know.

I mounted it with the outlet and inlet facing outwards out of the case since I also mounted the rad with the barbs (inlet and outlet) to the right (if you're looking horizontally)


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11824451*
> Yea lol iv told people 100 times already in last 2 weeks get yourself some uv or colorer tubing if you want colors. And on another note i finaly cleaned up my wireing it looks alot cleaner i might try to clean up a little more but dont see anything else i can do.


Repaint or vinyl it
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g44/c495/s1333/list/p1/DIYMod_Parts-Vinyl_Film-Carbon_Fiber_-_Black-Page1.html

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_V7oOtchgB0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_V7oOtchgB0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_V7oOtchgB0[/ame[/URL]]

Clean it, lol

You could cut some holes for the cables.


----------



## wermad

I totally F-ed up my vinyl on my psu, only decent part was the side you see from the window


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11824578*
> Repaint or vinyl it
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g44/c495/s1333/list/p1/DIYMod_Parts-Vinyl_Film-Carbon_Fiber_-_Black-Page1.html
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_V7oOtchgB0
> 
> Clean it, lol
> 
> You could cut some holes for the cables.


I see what you marked im gonna fix the wire at the bottom by rotating the fan but im not really looking to do any holes sence i dont wanna remove my rad sence it was a major pain to get it in.


----------



## ecaftermath

Someone's telling me this is better than the Rasa 750 RX360 kit and I want more people to tell me it's not!!
Quote:


> EK-Supreme HF - Plexi Rev 2.0 - Universal CPU Water Block EK-Supreme HF Plexi water block [EK-Supreme HF R2 - Plexi] - $72.99 : DazMode, Canadian PC Water Cooling and Modding Store $73
> Slim Triple 120mm Radiator XSPC RS360 Slim Triple 120mm Radiator XSPC RS360 [RS360] - $54.99 : DazMode, Canadian PC Water Cooling and Modding Store $55
> EK-DCP 4.0 High Performance Water Pump EK-DCP 4.0 [EK-DCP 4.0] - $59.99 : DazMode, Canadian PC Water Cooling and Modding Store $60
> EK-Reservoir Combo for DCP 4.0 Pump Only EK-Reservoir Combo DCP 4.0 [Combo DCP 4.0] - $37.99 : DazMode, Canadian PC Water Cooling and Modding Store $38
> 1/2 ID Tubing - High Flow Barb - Silver High Flow Barb 1/2 ID tubing [1212-S] - $2.69 : DazMode, Canadian PC Water Cooling and Modding Store x 6 $16
> Pre-cut pack 2.5m (8.2 ft) 1/2ID WHITE / UV BLUE Feser Tube UV Hose 1/2ID-3/4OD [Tube Blister 1/2 White] - $16.99 : DazMode, Canadian PC Water Cooling and Modding Store $17


----------



## wermad

the Supreme HF is a bit better than the Rasa block, though the ek looks helluva lot better than the xspc imo. The rest of the stuff if pretty good. if your planning to add your gpu to the mix, definitely go w/ the Rs360 Rasa kit, if your adding more blocks, go w/ the RX360 kit.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11824716*
> I see what you marked im gonna fix the wire at the bottom by rotating the fan but im not really looking to do any holes sence i dont wanna remove my rad sence it was a major pain to get it in.


How about a large sheet of acrylic? Cover it all up, plus I don't think I have seen anyone doing it.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=46154&catid=442

Quick chop


----------



## wermad

I got this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120312923454&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ecaftermath;11824775*
> Someone's telling me this is better than the Rasa 750 RX360 kit and I want more people to tell me it's not!!


Well it has a better CPU block, and stronger pump, but smaller rad. RX360 performs great with low-mid speed fans. What about fans? Do you have some or buying some? What are you wanting to cool? Would I say its better, yeah if you aren't overloading your rad, but its $60 more, maybe more if you need fans.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ecaftermath;11824775*
> Someone's telling me this is better than the Rasa 750 RX360 kit and I want more people to tell me it's not!!


IT'S NOT!!! Just look at all the results in this thread, and of course pricepoint aswell put's our kits Miles above the rest, with MUCH room for expansion in the future.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11824960*
> How about a large sheet of acrylic? Cover it all up, plus I don't think I have seen anyone doing it.
> 
> http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=46154&catid=442
> 
> Quick chop


Not sure maybe eventualy but id rather spend money on more parts then stuff to cover up a few wires lol that i never see unless i take photos of it.

Heres the revisied version with the front fan wire gone.


----------



## urdeath007

Curious what others have used to solve the problem of having to move their PSU to the bottom of the case.

Problem: Where to insert the powercord into your computer.

I don't have room to run it through any other back spot besides the whole left by the area where the PSU is meant to be mounted where I instead put my push&pull n rad setup.

EDIT: Upon further investigation of frozencpu, I came across a simpler solution. Saves time & money vs custom fab one. One less thing to deal with. Link.
I figure I'll have to modify it or come up with an inventive way to mount it though that doesn't bother me. It will also decrease the height of the combined push/pull & rad w/ filters on the outside fans.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11820830*
> @Mbudden You should really put my post in the OP since I know a lot of the AMD guys want a backplate for their waterblock.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/11585144-post62.html
> Link for reference.


Added to the OP.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11823696*
> Hokay, add me, the system is put together and I'm gonna give it a few days to settle in. Looks as though I used up the last of my good TIM (MX-3) so all I got left is the Thermalright, Prolimatech, and BARELY enough AS5 to do the job. The AS5 is old enough that I doubt it's working fully.
> 
> Pix below include a before and four after.
> 
> EDIT: MX-4 on order from NewEgg.










Added to the list.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11825097*
> IT'S NOT!!! Just look at all the results in this thread, and of course pricepoint aswell put's our kits Miles above the rest, with MUCH room for expansion in the future.


I replied to your PM


----------



## urdeath007

Had to get the rig up & running so I could start work on some 3d modeling. So here I am at 2:25 AM saying it's up & running w/o any more bubbles.

I have one question though, anyone care to explain their first time emptying the system? lol thanks just want a headsup. Was skittish due to tired & a quiet environment for the evening....lol the pump freaked me out when it went on the first time idk why.

Will post pics of the current setup tmro or the next day when I get time. Work work work. TYVM everyone for your help. TTYL...sleep :zombie:


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11824349*
> Bal3Wolf and moi have been preaching this. Sometimes, you learn the hard way, so did I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another example for those contemplating or currently running dyes/premixed. just say no to them and say yes to distilled + silver


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11824451*
> Yea lol iv told people 100 times already in last 2 weeks get yourself some uv or colorer tubing if you want colors. And on another note i finaly cleaned up my wireing it looks alot cleaner i might try to clean up a little more but dont see anything else i can do.
> 
> http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4388/case1w.jpg


And me!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11827203*
> lol the pump freaked me out when it went on the first time idk why.


That happens to me when I switch anything on for the first time xD


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11826296*
> Curious what others have used to solve the problem of having to move their PSU to the bottom of the case.
> 
> Problem: Where to insert the powercord into your computer.
> 
> I don't have room to run it through any other back spot besides the whole left by the area where the PSU is meant to be mounted where I instead put my push&pull n rad setup.
> 
> EDIT: Upon further investigation of frozencpu, I came across a simpler solution. Saves time & money vs custom fab one. One less thing to deal with. Link.
> I figure I'll have to modify it or come up with an inventive way to mount it though that doesn't bother me. It will also decrease the height of the combined push/pull & rad w/ filters on the outside fans.


Post some pics, that way we can see what you have done.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11826296*
> Curious what others have used to solve the problem of having to move their PSU to the bottom of the case.
> 
> Problem: Where to insert the powercord into your computer.
> 
> I don't have room to run it through any other back spot besides the whole left by the area where the PSU is meant to be mounted where I instead put my push&pull n rad setup.
> 
> EDIT: Upon further investigation of frozencpu, I came across a simpler solution. Saves time & money vs custom fab one. One less thing to deal with. Link.
> I figure I'll have to modify it or come up with an inventive way to mount it though that doesn't bother me. It will also decrease the height of the combined push/pull & rad w/ filters on the outside fans.


I got a set designed for my case through them, a little spendy imo, but worth it in the long run I hope. An important thing to note is that the magnets holding these in place are not very strong, I managed to knock one of the filters off several times moving my case around and/or bumping it.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

When yals res got mosty bubble free was it hard to tell if you even had water in it lol i cant see any water but my temps are great now lol. 46-48c folding they were at 54. Huge bubble came to my res it probly was size round bubble gum you get outa the quarter machines.


----------



## [Adz]

Quick question - for those of you with vertically mounted rads, did you leak test with the fans on the rad or without? Just wondering, if there's a leak at the rad, could it possibly screw up a fan if the water gets into it.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i leak tested with all 6 on mine top of my case most likely if you leak it will be at the barbs wont hit any fans.


----------



## Balsagna

I'm going to retake pics in a couple days and repost and edit one of my first posts in the thread.

Just a heads up, I'll be sure to let you guys know, though.


----------



## [Adz]

I'll be mounting mine vertically with the fittings at the top (I'm using compression fittings), so if there is a leak at the fittings, it'd drip right onto the fans...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you could only put some fans on it or none when you leak test it does not really need fans for leak testing sence you wont have your motherboard powerd on.


----------



## [Adz]

Thought as much. Thanks


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11828353*
> Thought as much. Thanks


Just be carful when you do put the fans on and dont punction any of the lines in the rad when you screw in the fans.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

ARGH!!! Why does it seem this stuff pops up all the time with me. I tried running Prime95 and found my Logical Core #2 is lagging, tried 3 times on 3 reboots. Other than that, the temperature seems to be a bit high as well. On air my temperatures used to be ambient +6C at idle and they were ambient +12C just before I installed my XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit.

Now that I'm WC, my temperatures are similar to what I was getting with a Prolimatech MegaShadow with two Panaflo FBA12G12U1BX in push/pull at about 2000rpm. Right now I'm at 1200rpm with the kit fans and ambient +12C (or 34C) atm.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11828365*
> Just be carful when you do put the fans on and dont punction any of the lines in the rad when you screw in the fans.


What I'll do is a leak test without the fans for a number of hours, then add the fans on and continue the test.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11829392*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ARGH!!! Why does it seem this stuff pops up all the time with me. I tried running Prime95 and found my Logical Core #2 is lagging, tried 3 times on 3 reboots. Other than that, the temperature seems to be a bit high as well. On air my temperatures used to be ambient +6C at idle and they were ambient +12C just before I installed my XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit.
> 
> Now that I'm WC, my temperatures are similar to what I was getting with a Prolimatech MegaShadow with two Panaflo FBA12G12U1BX in push/pull at about 2000rpm. Right now I'm at 1200rpm with the kit fans and ambient +12C (or 34C) atm.


Idle's don't matter, it's load's that count. Those were pretty damned good delta's for air :S


----------



## Gothic-Yoshi

Hai im ordering my kit in about a week, i live in GB so i was gonna order from specialtech.co.uk. The jit is 147 pound on there but its out of stock so i looked at jabtech and used the discount code and it comes to 188 dollars wich works out o be roughly 122 pounds do u think it is worth the hastle and will there be any hidden charges??


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gothic-Yoshi;11829613*
> Hai im ordering my kit in about a week, i live in GB so i was gonna order from specialtech.co.uk. The jit is 147 pound on there but its out of stock so i looked at jabtech and used the discount code and it comes to 188 dollars wich works out o be roughly 122 pounds do u think it is worth the hastle and will there be any hidden charges??


Doubt there will be hidden charges. Just find out if they ship to GB first. I've heard nothing but good things about Jab-Tech


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11829600*
> Idle's don't matter, it's load's that count. Those were pretty damned good delta's for air :S


Heh, those were my idle temps. Last time I tested with Prime95 x64, my load temp was ambient +23C.


----------



## Gothic-Yoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11829641*
> Doubt there will be hidden charges. Just find out if they ship to GB first. I've heard nothing but good things about Jab-Tech


Yh they do ship to GB thts why the shipping is so high (65$) usually 10$ for u americans







maybe i could put another rs120 rad in there will it be worth the difference


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gothic-Yoshi;11829674*
> Yh they do ship to GB thts why the shipping is so high (65$) usually 10$ for u americans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe i could put another rs120 rad in there will it be worth the difference


I would have thought the shipping would be a little bit high. But I say go for it, even if it's not needed much know. Could always use it for future expansion


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574*









ARGH!!! Why does it seem this stuff pops up all the time with me. I tried running Prime95 and found my Logical Core #2 is lagging, tried 3 times on 3 reboots. Other than that, the temperature seems to be a bit high as well. On air my temperatures used to be ambient +6C at idle and they were ambient +12C just before I installed my XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit.

Now that I'm WC, my temperatures are similar to what I was getting with a Prolimatech MegaShadow with two Panaflo FBA12G12U1BX in push/pull at about 2000rpm. Right now I'm at 1200rpm with the kit fans and ambient +12C (or 34C) atm.


Do you get the lag with the HT off? I know it can lower you GFlops/sec using IBT. You might want to try setting Prime to 8 threads to see if that will even the load out over the cores. As far as temps go, the Mega with high speed fans can keep up with WCing up to a point and I'm guessing you never got your OC to that point. For my i5 750 3.8 temps are almost the same as my 4.0 temps on water. This tells me that my OC is not limited by heat. But when I had my Mega there was a 16Â°C difference from 3.8 to 4.0 and I was limited to 3.8 because of heat. The more you OC your CPU the more you will see the WC pull away from the Mega.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ok... While I wait for my kit to arrive, I have some questions.

- I was thinking about buying some cheap, "disposable" plastic tubing at my local Home Depot to leak test the set up first OUTSIDE of the case. What I was thinking about was installing all the barbs and make sure they are properly seated/tightened. I would basically be taking them out of the equation once I install everything inside the case in its final position and run a second leak test using the supplied tubing. Probably more work but it's also more peace of mind.

- Would teflon tape be advisable on the threads of the barbs? (basic plumbing principles kicking in here)

- Since I will be cooling only the CPU for now and the RS360 will be mounted on the back of the case (externally) - should I look to make the whole set up as "linear" as possible between the radiator, the block and the reservoir? This also begs the question - should I eliminate the back exhaust case fan now since I will have the radiator on the other side of that exhaust?

- RAD ---> CPU ---> PUMP/RESV ---> back to RAD seems to have heated water accumulate in the reservoir (adding heat to the case?) while RAD ---> PUMP/RESV ---> CPU ---> back to RAD seems to have all of the heated water on the outside of the case mostly. Make sense? (I read that it seems like it does not make any noticeable difference but want to make sure on my thinking). Also, does having the RAD on the outside help to cool faster/more? I tend to think it would.


----------



## kingofyo1

Linearity is good, and teflon tape is good if you so choose. it is by no means necessary for operation though. The way you're thinking of setting it up, outside for primary leak test is not necessary either, a good 5-10 psi of pressure will be enough to stop them from leaks. Make sure the supplied O-rings are in place on the barbs. As far as external radiator set up, that is how mine was initially done, then I moved it inside the case, as I found I had the necessary room after all. Do not eliminate the back exhaust case fan, you'll have a positive case pressure if you do that, and you wont have the normal flow of air either. No matter how you set up the loop, the temperature will acclimate itself the same as any other way you set up the loop. Dont worry about that IMO. Also, having the radiator outside the case does help it cool faster, as you're running cooler air through the radiator thereby lowering the temperature of the water faster than if it was inside the case.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


Linearity is good, and teflon tape is good if you so choose. it is by no means necessary for operation though. The way you're thinking of setting it up, outside for primary leak test is not necessary either, a good 5-10 psi of pressure will be enough to stop them from leaks. Make sure the supplied O-rings are in place on the barbs. As far as external radiator set up, that is how mine was initially done, then I moved it inside the case, as I found I had the necessary room after all. Do not eliminate the back exhaust case fan, you'll have a positive case pressure if you do that, and you wont have the normal flow of air either. No matter how you set up the loop, the temperature will acclimate itself the same as any other way you set up the loop. Dont worry about that IMO. Also, having the radiator outside the case does help it cool faster, as you're running cooler air through the radiator thereby lowering the temperature of the water faster than if it was inside the case.


Gracias amigo... Now... all I need to do is make the US Postal Service work FASTER!!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574*









ARGH!!! Why does it seem this stuff pops up all the time with me. I tried running Prime95 and found my Logical Core #2 is lagging, tried 3 times on 3 reboots. Other than that, the temperature seems to be a bit high as well. On air my temperatures used to be ambient +6C at idle and they were ambient +12C just before I installed my XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit.

Now that I'm WC, my temperatures are similar to what I was getting with a Prolimatech MegaShadow with two Panaflo FBA12G12U1BX in push/pull at about 2000rpm. Right now I'm at 1200rpm with the kit fans and ambient +12C (or 34C) atm.


First check to see if anything is hogging cpu power when you run prime. And it will take days to get all your bubbles out i had 1 just came out after 3-4 days of my loop running it was a huge one looks to droped my temps 5-6c.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothic-Yoshi*


Hai im ordering my kit in about a week, i live in GB so i was gonna order from specialtech.co.uk. The jit is 147 pound on there but its out of stock so i looked at jabtech and used the discount code and it comes to 188 dollars wich works out o be roughly 122 pounds do u think it is worth the hastle and will there be any hidden charges??


Wait for specialtech to get it back in stock. I'm in the UK too and I ordered from Frozen CPU.... Customs charges made it more expensive than buying in from SpecialTech, and delivery took forever too. Given that VAT will be going up to 20% at the end of tomorrow, there's no way it'll even get to the UK let alone clear customs before the increase. 
Not worth the hassle. VAT will bump it up by 20% and then they tack on an additional Â£10-15 "handling fee".


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Wait for specialtech to get it back in stock. I'm in the UK too and I ordered from Frozen CPU.... Customs charges made it more expensive than buying in from SpecialTech, and delivery took forever too. Given that VAT will be going up to 20% at the end of tomorrow, there's no way it'll even get to the UK let alone clear customs before the increase. 
Not worth the hassle. VAT will bump it up by 20% and then they tack on an additional Â£10-15 "handling fee".


Ouch you uk guys get reamed bad no wonder most of your jobs pay good you gota pay for the pillows to sit on


----------



## mbudden

We are talking about this in "The Folders' Lounge" right now lol.


----------



## KGIXXER7

got mah kit, now I just gotta put it in the new case


----------



## mbudden

MMM, Nikon D3000. yummy pics.


----------



## Balsagna

Wow. See if you can use those for the main picks, mbudden


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Bubbles are so evil i had one size of a ping pong ball in my res and my temps folding droped from 54 to 46 at about 74amb even. I cant belive i didnt get it out befor now iv moved my pc layed it every direction on all 100 times tapped on hoses and rad and res lol. Im thinking it was in my pump cause it seems my flow is faster now.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7*


got mah kit, now I just gotta put it in the new case




















Quote:



Originally Posted by *Balsagna*


Wow. See if you can use those for the main picks, mbudden


I vote for pic #2.

Well, I might keep my pump a little longer (and maybe add ram blocks






































































)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Pix #2... Not sure what we are voting on but it sure looks nice.


----------



## wermad

it just needs a bit of photoshop or the like to spruce it up and add the club's name


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11830575*
> Do you get the lag with the HT off? I know it can lower you GFlops/sec using IBT. You might want to try setting Prime to 8 threads to see if that will even the load out over the cores. As far as temps go, the Mega with high speed fans can keep up with WCing up to a point and I'm guessing you never got your OC to that point. For my i5 750 3.8 temps are almost the same as my 4.0 temps on water. This tells me that my OC is not limited by heat. But when I had my Mega there was a 16°C difference from 3.8 to 4.0 and I was limited to 3.8 because of heat. The more you OC your CPU the more you will see the WC pull away from the Mega.


It's an AMD, no HT








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11832275*
> First check to see if anything is hogging cpu power when you run prime. And it will take days to get all your bubbles out i had 1 just came out after 3-4 days of my loop running it was a huge one looks to droped my temps 5-6c.


The temps aren't what's bothering me, bubbles everywhere atm I get. It's the single core lagging consistently behind the other 3 and the increased temps when I look back at it. I remounted my Mega around Thanksgiving thinking the TIM had gone bad and it was hard but that solved nothing and this is the first time I thought about it since then as it has been rather hectic for the last month or more.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea bubbles are a pain i hd a big one leave my system that droped my temps last night. And no mater what i do i cant seem to get anymore out i thk i still got some big ones messing with my temps. They were staying steady here at 46c folding then they jumped to 50c for no reason room temp didnt change it droped lol.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11829392*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ARGH!!! Why does it seem this stuff pops up all the time with me. I tried running Prime95 and found my Logical Core #2 is lagging, tried 3 times on 3 reboots. Other than that, the temperature seems to be a bit high as well. On air my temperatures used to be ambient +6C at idle and they were ambient +12C just before I installed my XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit.
> 
> Now that I'm WC, my temperatures are similar to what I was getting with a Prolimatech MegaShadow with two Panaflo FBA12G12U1BX in push/pull at about 2000rpm. Right now I'm at 1200rpm with the kit fans and ambient +12C (or 34C) atm.


I don't want to be an Ass here, but, don't say logical core when you are talking about an AMD, they don't have logical cores so to speak.

an AMD cpu has 4 physical cores for a quad core, so there are no logical cores. A logical core is a core that is viewed as a separate core in windows but isn't actually a physical core by itself.

I have no idea why you are having issues with your core "lagging"


----------



## kingofyo1

I'd say personally, that if your core is "lagging" then you may have a "bad core" and I'd suggest turning the core off in bios and see if that fixes the lag issues you're having. It may also drop your temps slightly as a side effect


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11833804*
> I'd say personally, that if your core is "lagging" then you may have a "bad core" and I'd suggest turning the core off in bios and see if that fixes the lag issues you're having. It may also drop your temps slightly as a side effect


This.

If that is the case I would suggest contacting AMD about a replacement, if it is still fairly new.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna;11832789*
> Wow. See if you can use those for the main picks, mbudden


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11833320*
> I vote for pic #2.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11833506*
> Pix #2... Not sure what we are voting on but it sure looks nice.


Not sure where the voting came from. Look like wermad started it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11833647*
> it just needs a bit of photoshop or the like to spruce it up and add the club's name


I'll have to PM Lutro0, he's the one that made the current one. I need to throw up that it was done by him. Put some kind of like recognition to it.







He's a nice guy and made the current one.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Majo!!! (Just realized you are in Spain)...

I think we are just expressing how much we liked the pictures. the pictures do make justice to the XSPC brand. If you told me that those pix came from a magazine I personally would believe it!

No disrespect to the designer of the club's logo is intended.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11833785*
> I don't want to be an Ass here, but, don't say logical core when you are talking about an AMD, they don't have logical cores so to speak.
> 
> an AMD cpu has 4 physical cores for a quad core, so there are no logical cores. A logical core is a core that is viewed as a separate core in windows but isn't actually a physical core by itself.
> 
> I have no idea why you are having issues with your core "lagging"










Got ya and you're not, correcting incorrect terminology benefits everyone in the long run.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11833937*
> This.
> 
> If that is the case I would suggest contacting AMD about a replacement, if it is still fairly new.


I'm a technician by years of training and nature, so I troubleshoot first then repair/replace







. Old force of habit you could say.

But yeah, looks like I've got a core gone bad for whatever the reason may be. Temps dropped to 33C (ambient +11C) at idle and 41C (ambient +19C) at load after turning off the bad core in the BIOS. Not sure if that's because there's one less core or what though.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11834286*
> Majo!!! (Just realized you are in Spain)...
> 
> I think we are just expressing how much we liked the pictures. the pictures do make justice to the XSPC brand. If you told me that those pix came from a magazine I personally would believe it!
> 
> No disrespect to the designer of the club's logo is intended.


I'm not from Spain. Good ol' US of A. But I am Spanish though.








I changed mine because Z from the [email protected] section changed hers to Brazil. I'm waiting for her to notice. I would absolutely LOVE to visit Palma de Mallorca







from what I have seen. It's SO beautiful.

& No disrespect taken.







I just want whatever the group wants.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11834365*
> I'm not from Spain. Good ol' US of A. But I am Spanish though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I changed mine because Z from the [email protected] section changed hers to Brazil. I'm waiting for her to notice. I would absolutely LOVE to visit Palma de Mallorca
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from what I have seen. It's SO beautiful.
> 
> & No disrespect taken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just want whatever the group wants.


HAha you do know Z is male not female lmao. And places in spain are nice i watch house hunters some times the houses over thier are insane all stone work that looks like wood work its so detailed.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11834416*
> HAha you do know Z is male not female lmao. And places in spain are nice i watch house hunters some times the houses over thier are insane all stone work that looks like wood work its so detailed.


orly? i keep asking. but no one will give me a straight answer... sigh...
and !!!! i know. ugh. wish i lived in a different time sometimes..


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11834505*
> orly? i keep asking. but no one will give me a straight answer... sigh...
> and !!!! i know. ugh. wish i lived in a different time sometimes..


Haha yea its like a on going joke so many people think hes a she cause of pink text or his avatar lol.


----------



## KGIXXER7

hahaha...Thanks guys...I was just messing around and found that piece of black plexi, and thought it would look nice for the surface.


----------



## R-Type

Hey guys, I normally stay over on the [H]ardforum but registered to comment on this thread (after reading all 125 pages of it







).

I purchased the RS360 kit from Frozen CPU and will be modding it into the top of my vintage V1000B for my Sandy Bridge build. This will include a 6970 and eventually a second so I want to add a 120 rad in the rear exhaust as well in order to provide some extra headroom. Because I am going all internal on this build, I don't really want the RX120 as it will cover the VRM area but I can't find anyone selling the RS120. Could someone point me to a US retailer for the RS120 or recommend an alternate slim radiator?

Thanks!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11834349*
> But yeah, looks like I've got a core gone bad for whatever the reason may be. Temps dropped to 33C (ambient +11C) at idle and 41C (ambient +19C) at load after turning off the bad core in the BIOS. Not sure if that's because there's one less core or what though.


To me it sounds like it is time for.....*drum roll*......an upgrade. woo.









6 core time? I would do it if you can find one for a good price.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R-Type;11834972*
> Hey guys, I normally stay over on the [H]ardforum but registered to comment on this thread (after reading all 125 pages of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I purchased the RS360 kit from Frozen CPU and will be modding it into the top of my vintage V1000B for my Sandy Bridge build. This will include a 6970 and eventually a second so I want to add a 120 rad in the rear exhaust as well in order to provide some extra headroom. Because I am going all internal on this build, I don't really want the RX120 as it will cover the VRM area but I can't find anyone selling the RS120. Could someone point me to a US retailer for the RS120 or recommend an alternate slim radiator?
> 
> Thanks!


tada
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=27123
Im not sure about the color though. lol.
Welcome to the forum.
You should be able to find any information you can possibly want here.
EDIT: Oh here is the black one.
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RS120-BLACK-pr-4553.html


----------



## R-Type

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11835035*
> tada
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=27123
> Im not sure about the color though. lol.
> Welcome to the forum.
> You should be able to find any information you can possibly want here.


Thanks for the quick reply, that thing is very... blue.

I'm also surprised its only $6 cheaper than the RX120 over at frozen cpu, is $50 the standard price? How does the RS120 compare to something like an MCR120 or Black Ice SR1?

EDIT: You ninja edited on me, the jaba price is much more in line with what I was expecting. How is performance compared to Swiftech and Black Ice?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R-Type;11835089*
> Thanks for the quick reply, that thing is very... blue.
> 
> I'm also surprised its only $6 cheaper than the RX120 over at frozen cpu, is $50 the standard price? How does the RS120 compare to something like an MCR120 or Black Ice SR1?


yea check my previous post, black version with a cheaper price tag.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

haha nice i wonder if my mcp655 pump could push 3 rads 360 top 120 back and 240 bottom that would be some insane rad space.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11835145*
> haha nice i wonder if my mcp655 pump could push 3 rads 360 top 120 back and 240 bottom that would be some insane rad space.


I don't see why it wouldn't that pump is pretty powerful. I guess you would have to ask the other guys about it.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i dont thk id need all that but would be easy to setup with a rad befor every part lol.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11835333*
> i dont thk id need all that but would be easy to setup with a rad befor every part lol.


bal3, you'z crazeh!

I would at the very least (for me, run another rx240 rad) for my GTX470.

However I'm going to see how it does all on one loop


----------



## thrasherht

This makes me want to possibly get a 120mm rad for the rear of my case. but im not sure it would make a difference.

I am thinking first I should get a second video card and put them under water.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11835650*
> bal3, you'z crazeh!
> 
> I would at the very least (for me, run another rx240 rad) for my GTX470.
> 
> However I'm going to see how it does all on one loop


How loud are those yates on your rad? Insanely or bearable?


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11835758*
> How loud are those yates on your rad? Insanely or bearable?


actually, you'd be surprised, my 6 high speed yates in push/pull it's very tolerable.

My GTX 470 fan at 100% is actually louder than all 6 fans lol









I get 61c on hottest core at 3.4GHz running 1.4v with Intel Burn Test

I'm pretty impressed.


----------



## Coolio831

I ordered my Kit this morning! XSPC Rasa 240mm


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11835789*
> actually, you'd be surprised, my 6 high speed yates in push/pull it's very tolerable.
> 
> My GTX 470 fan at 100% is actually louder than all 6 fans lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get 61c on hottest core at 3.4GHz running 1.4v with Intel Burn Test
> 
> I'm pretty impressed.


Same for me my yates are quieter then my fm121 fan lol its louder then all my yates combined. When my fm121 is not on i hardly even hear my yates.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11835789*
> actually, you'd be surprised, my 6 high speed yates in push/pull it's very tolerable.
> 
> My GTX 470 fan at 100% is actually louder than all 6 fans lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get 61c on hottest core at 3.4GHz running 1.4v with Intel Burn Test
> 
> I'm pretty impressed.


Geez, I would hope so. The fan on this 6870 at 100%???? FORGET about it, I couldn't take that noise for more than 5 mins, and was half the reason I got water in the first place lol.


----------



## KGIXXER7

I figured I would post up some quick pics in here for your judgement...how does this look to you guys?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11835789*
> My GTX 470 fan at 100% is actually louder than all 6 fans lol


That's not really saying much







I had the 470 running at 100%... I could hear it clearly downstairs. My sister thought someone had left the tap running in the bathroom.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11836613*
> I figured I would post up some quick pics in here for your judgement...how does this look to you guys?


Ummmmm......














why do you have tubing taped to your video card?

I really hope this was a joke.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11836633*
> That's not really saying much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the 470 running at 100%... I could hear it clearly downstairs. My sister thought someone had left the tap running in the bathroom.


hahahah that's hilarious!


----------



## KGIXXER7

hahaha...I thought about explaining that...I have a gtx 580 ftw Hydro copper that will be hereon wednesday(factory water cooled) and am just planning a bit where it will be, and I am just using the clear tubing as mock up, and will use my black or blue tubing for the real thing.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11836688*
> hahaha...I thought about explaining that...I have a gtx 580 ftw Hydro copper that will be hereon wednesday(factory water cooled) and am just planning a bit where it will be, and I am just using the clear tubing as mock up, and will use my black or blue tubing for the real thing.


haha, totally makes sense now.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11836613*


Is that a custom shroud? I've never seen an ATI card with a blue section









Also, as for your tubing, it looks good, but is there a particular reason you're putting the GPU inlet on the underside? Can't you put both the inlet and outlet top-side, for neater and shorter tubing?


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11836729*
> Is that a custom shroud? I've never seen an ATI card with a blue section
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, as for your tubing, it looks good, but is there a particular reason you're putting the GPU inlet on the underside? Can't you put both the inlet and outlet top-side, for neater and shorter tubing?


Yeah I took the 5770's apart and painted them

I do beleive I will be able to put them both on the top side, just kinda over shooting just in case(don't have the card yet).

link to the card..
http://www.evga.com/PRODUCTS/enlarge.asp?PN=015-P3-1589-AR&I=7


----------



## KGIXXER7

Posting from my machine, i will snap more pics in the morning. No leaks as of yet, seems to be running smooth.


----------



## urdeath007

I promise I'll add pics soon as i find the darn rechargable bat. pack charger for my camera.






























I've experimented with mounting on bottom n on top (inside of case). I'm going to experiment with mounting it on the back when the darn gpu block arrives & i have time to do that.


----------



## Lee17

Sry if you already answer to my question but... I will ask here :

Did I will see a huge difference between the RS240 and RS360 Kit? It will cool a Sandy Bridge i5-2500k. I know i isn't release yet but... you can give me an answer









Thanks Lee


----------



## kingofyo1

yes you will see a difference. not necessarily huge depending on where you put the radiator. Will cool sandy bridge with the right top on the block


----------



## Lee17

I'm better with the RS360? Or I can save money and get the RS240? I want to get the advantage of watercooling and beat most of the air tower (and H50/70).

Where should i put rad... wait... I will be on a tech bench









Thanks


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lee17*


I'm better with the RS360? Or I can save money and get the RS240? I want to get the advantage of watercooling and beat most of the air tower (and H50/70).

Where should i put rad... wait... I will be on a tech bench









Thanks










If you're going for CPU only, an RS240 will do. 
If you're going to add a GPU block too, go for an RX240 or an RS360. 
If you have multiple GPU blocks, go for an RS360 or RX360.


----------



## Lee17

Ok thanks, so only the RS240







since i have plan, if I want to watercool my GPU, to make a 2nd loop









Thanks guy







Maybe get and SSD now!


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lee17*


Ok thanks, so only the RS240







since i have plan, if I want to watercool my GPU, to make a 2nd loop









Thanks guy







Maybe get and SSD now!


No problem. Which SSD are you looking to get?


----------



## Lee17

Maybe a C300 64Gb, but not sure if it will fit in my budjet (it is not really fix now)


----------



## KGIXXER7

some pics of it in the new rig...


----------



## KGIXXER7

I may use another bay cover and try and get the card reader cover better, but it will do for now.


----------



## kingofyo1

is that a whole kit or just the block? and which kit if indeed it is one


----------



## Bal3Wolf

This is driving me nuts me off my temps go back and forth 4-5c swing for no reason like last night 78f in here i was at 52-54c folding today its 56-58c same room temp.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7*


some pics of it in the new rig...











AMAZING.
I love it.
I am totally going to have my sister take some pictures of my computer with her D80.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


This is driving me nuts me off my temps go back and forth 4-5c swing for no reason like last night 78f in here i was at 52-54c folding today its 56-58c same room temp.


How quickly are they swinging? over the course of a few minutes or a few seconds? maybe a bad temp probe?


----------



## Sainesk

if you properly install and leak test what are the odds of a leak still developing?

sorry, new to wc...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

just ranadom it seem i probly can open my res and the temps will drop again.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sainesk*


if you properly install and leak test what are the odds of a leak still developing?

sorry, new to wc...











very little unless your inside your computer and knock a tube loose or put a hole in one.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


just ranadom it seem i probly can open my res and the temps will drop again.

very little unless your inside your computer and knock a tube loose or put a hole in one.


If you did a good job, then exactly what he said.
Just make sure all the clamps are tight and you never have to worry.


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


is that a whole kit or just the block? and which kit if indeed it is one


Whole kit...XSPC Rasa RX360 from jab tek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


AMAZING.
I love it.
I am totally going to have my sister take some pictures of my computer with her D80.


Thanks thrash, it's fun taking pics of something new


----------



## Sainesk

okay so I went with the RS240 and it came out to $186 shipped (from dazmode) with a Kill Coil and a "Feser Aqua - Bi-Distilled Uber Pure Water" (lol "uber" pure...). 
I'm excited to get my first wc kit.

is the thermal paste it comes with any good or should I use something else?


----------



## KGIXXER7

I used some arctic silver I had, and I ordered some others but they aren't here yet. I would def buy some rather than use what they supply.


----------



## urdeath007

Yeah I'd purchase 1 tube of artic silver. I purchased mine early December when I knew I would be making the swap. I now have a few tubes of this plain/stock stuff I won't use with my rigs but will see if theres a use for it later or not.

If not I'm close buds w/ this PC Shop head "mechanic" who I usually turn in stuff left over from stuff I've done in return for a fan or a new wire runner n such small things. Turned in two stock HSs n got a HDD for my other rig that's been MIA for close to a year. Since I took the HDDs from it for my new rig (I don't like file transferring lol).


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;11843727*
> Yeah I'd purchase 1 tube of artic silver.


already have some lying around







, I know it's no indigo xtreme but if it's better than what comes with the kit I guess i'll use that...

thanks for all the help guys, i'm sure i'll need some more when the kit arrives, maybe


----------



## Jonesey I7

Well, my little project is done. Fans and shrouds mounted, no leaks ( thank you Jesus ) and sure nuff, dropped 2c off max load temps consistently. And you guys were right, these fans don't make that much noise at all, I was expecting MUCH worse. While I was in the case, I rigged two of the multi color 120mm's to the front of the case and removed the 220mm that moved like zero air.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11843383*
> okay so I went with the RS240 and it came out to $186 shipped (from dazmode) with a Kill Coil and a "Feser Aqua - Bi-Distilled Uber Pure Water" (lol "uber" pure...).
> I'm excited to get my first wc kit.
> 
> is the thermal paste it comes with any good or should I use something else?


I really hope you realize you just payed a ton of money for distilled water.
anyway. Congratulations on the kit, the paste that comes with it isn't that bad, I used it for a while and it worked beautifully.


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11845448*
> I really hope you realize you just payed a ton of money for distilled water.


Yea I do, but it saves me a trip to the store, until I need to change it anyway...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11845562*
> Yea I do, but it saves me a trip to the store, until I need to replace it anyway...


Sir, I think you win the laziest water cooler ever award.


----------



## thrasherht

I just talked to my sister about a photoshoot for my computer and she said she can work me in.
I need to clean up my case and make sure it is finger print and dust free.


----------



## KGIXXER7

thats the hardest part...can't wait to see em thrash


----------



## thrasherht

yea, I am excited to.
She is a professional photographer, and I get pretty much full access to her skills, because I am her tech guy.
I just setup a RAID box for her storage solution.
Sans digital dual bay box, with 2x 2tb WD Green drives, in Raid 1.


----------



## KGIXXER7

pays to know people, and have IOU's


----------



## thrasherht

Yes, this is true.
But she is also my sister, and we live with our parents.


----------



## [Adz]

Nice to know people with professional skills


----------



## thrasherht

Oh yea, it rocks.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ambientreflections
here is her porfolio.


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11846058*
> Oh yea, it rocks.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/ambientreflections
> here is her porfolio.


took a bit to get through all the pages but those were just awesome...all were great but some were just







( in a good way)


----------



## thrasherht

Yea, she is pretty amazing with her camera. She has a real talent for it.


----------



## Jude188

Sorry if its already been covered... but it is a long thread...








Will the RX240 fit in the top of a CM 690 II?
Thanks!


----------



## kingofyo1

well I did a bit of case modding today, and she aint too pretty but I got a window put in my case.. Had issues with the epoxy not being tall enough for the window catch a grip on the case with the U channel on it, so I had to take the U channel out, and I'm left with nasty edges.. Dunno how the other guys do it, but meh.. I wanna redo it but don't have the cash right now to get another acrylic window


----------



## Spykerv

Has one experience leaking? I'm still on the edge of getting the rasa rs240


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spykerv;11848007*
> Has one experience leaking? I'm still on the edge of getting the rasa rs240


I know there have been leaks with WCing, but I haven't seen a single person have a leak with the rasa kits. I have been following the thread since the first post.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spykerv;11848007*
> Has one experience leaking? I'm still on the edge of getting the rasa rs240


Not that we know of lol with careful planning and judgement nothing will happen


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11847988*
> well I did a bit of case modding today, and she aint too pretty but I got a window put in my case.. Had issues with the epoxy not being tall enough for the window catch a grip on the case with the U channel on it, so I had to take the U channel out, and I'm left with nasty edges.. Dunno how the other guys do it, but meh.. I wanna redo it but don't have the cash right now to get another acrylic window


window + double sided tape and u chan = win.

try that out


----------



## mistax

:_( need more moneyz oh im stuck with a h70


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11848130*
> :_( need more moneyz oh im stuck with a h70


You should mod your H70, put new tubing with a swiftech micro res.


----------



## kingofyo1

Uh its epoxy'd so... yeah and no double sided tape available at the moment. Also accidentally got epoxy on the window and I hope I can razor it off :/


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11848148*
> Uh its epoxy'd so... yeah and no double sided tape available at the moment. Also accidentally got epoxy on the window and I hope I can razor it off :/


ouch

well. pulled the trigger on a rs240 kit from jab earlier today.

where do i put the silver coil at?


----------



## kingofyo1

Coil goes in res


----------



## thrasherht

i totally want to put a coil inside on of the tubes, that would be kinda cool.
You could just shove it into the inlet tube that comes into the res, so incase it does come unlogged it would just go back into the res.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well guys i thk i might of figured out my temp problem i had my rear fan as intake and im thinking sence its against the wall it could be pulling in hot air making my temps go up. And i put some zip ties on my tubing sence i couldnt get the clamps i orderd over most of the tubing once it was on the 1/2inch barbs.


----------



## kingofyo1

Zips work well. They're commonly used on vacuum tubes for turboed engines


----------



## KGIXXER7

nice bald, that could do it...5 post's away from 10k


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11848376*
> Zips work well. They're commonly used on vacuum tubes for turboed engines


Yea not neeeded proly but better safe then wet.


----------



## kingofyo1

What size tubing over what size barbs


----------



## Bal3Wolf

7/16 5/8 over 1/2 barbs.


----------



## kingofyo1

No need for ties man. Those are stable as hell


----------



## Spykerv

any reason to choose compression fittings from bitspower vs just clamp and xspc barbs? I'm really worried about leaks, also I plan on getting some primochill white tubing (1 meter) and black tubing (1 meter).


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea lol i got some for other stuff so said why not it cant hurt lol.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spykerv;11848503*
> any reason to choose compression fittings from bitspower vs just clamp and xspc barbs? I'm really worried about leaks, also I plan on getting some primochill white tubing (1 meter) and black tubing (1 meter).


just get the 7/16 5/8 tubing over 1/2 barbs they make a great seal no leaking to get them off you gota cut them off even they are so tight.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spykerv;11848503*
> any reason to choose compression fittings from bitspower vs just clamp and xspc barbs? I'm really worried about leaks, also I plan on getting some primochill white tubing (1 meter) and black tubing (1 meter).


Eh not really. Looks I guess


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11848511*
> just get the 7/16 5/8 tubing over 1/2 barbs they make a great seal no leaking to get them off you gota cut them off even they are so tight.


the kit includes that right?

"2 Meters of Clear 7/16" Hose
G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6"

or am i mistaken?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea it does the guy was going to buy tubing he needed to know to get 7/16 by 5/8 to fit the barbs included in the kit.


----------



## Kick

ohh cool.

paranoid about leakage.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;11848580*
> ohh cool.
> 
> paranoid about leakage.


I thk we all are at first but as you run your loop you get more and more confortable about it like my first day i couldnt sleep i kept getting up looking at my water level lol.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11848615*
> I thk we all are at first but as you run your loop you get more and more confortable about it like my first day i couldnt sleep i kept getting up looking at my water level lol.


i would so do that. idk, its like an obsession. haha


----------



## Spykerv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;11848580*
> ohh cool.
> 
> paranoid about leakage.


I'm extremely scared.


----------



## kingofyo1

No need yo be. As long as your fitting gs are tight then no worries


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Just ordered my rasa 240 kit and immediately following the submit order a rush of 'is it here yet' came over me LOL, Looking forward to getting rid of this HyperN520


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11848615*
> I thk we all are at first but as you run your loop you get more and more confortable about it like my first day i couldnt sleep i kept getting up looking at my water level lol.


that was last night for me lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spykerv;11848667*
> I'm extremely scared.


thats good, it means you will be cautious and double check everything...I was to all last night but it went very smooth, and didn't have a lick of trouble
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11848731*
> Just ordered my rasa 240 kit and immediately following the submit order a rush of 'is it here yet' came over me LOL, Looking forward to getting rid of this HyperN520


do you have it yet?


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

No i keep checking the mail but no Luck... Hoping it doesn't take the 5 days to arrive...


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11848803*
> No i keep checking the mail but no Luck... Hoping it doesn't take the 5 days to arrive...


every day you hope it comes early, then on delivery day I swear I hear the delivery guy 100 times lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jude188;11847373*
> Sorry if its already been covered... but it is a long thread...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will the RX240 fit in the top of a CM 690 II?
> Thanks!


Yes it does


----------



## jamborhgini313

Ordered the RS360 from frozen 2 days ago. Claims to be 3-5 days of shipping but when I track it, it saids estimated delivery: Jan 7. Fedex sucks


----------



## Bal3Wolf

ouch i got my stuff from jab-tech and sidewindercomputers in 2 days on both sites.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


ouch i got my stuff from jab-tech and sidewindercomputers in 2 days on both sites.


Me too, they got my stuff here, technically, in 1 full day. It left Indiana on Monday at 4am, and was at my shop Tuesday at 10:30, but that was with usps priority mail.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Maybe because I live on the other side of the US. NY-CA

My package is now stuck in OH...


----------



## Reload_X

the 240 rad can fit in the front of a tt element t?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spykerv*


any reason to choose compression fittings from bitspower vs just clamp and xspc barbs? I'm really worried about leaks, also I plan on getting some primochill white tubing (1 meter) and black tubing (1 meter).


I've got the EK Compression fittings. They look nicer (to me), but the barbs will do the job fine.


----------



## lightsout

Anyone got the 240 in a cooler master storm scout?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Anyone got the 240 in a cooler master storm scout?


Yes:

Quote:




Model Number SGC-6000-KKN1-GP
Available Color Black
Material Steel, ABS Plastic, Mesh bezel
Dimensions (D)566.6 x (W)254.6 X (H)551 mm
(D)22.3 x (W)10 x (H)21.7 inch
Net Weight 10.6 kg / 23.42 lb
M/B Type Micro-ATX/ATX
5.25" Drive Bay 5 Exposed (without the use of exposed 3.5 inch Drive Bay)
3.5" Drive Bay 5 Hidden
1 Exposed (converted from one 5.25 inch Drive Bay)
Cooling System 
Front: 200x30mm Blue LED Fan x 1 (500 - 1000rpm, 17 - 23 dBA)
Top: 200x30mm Blue LED Fan x 1 (500 - 1000rpm, 17 - 23 dBA)
(can be swapped for two 120mm fans or *120x240mm Radiator*)
Rear: 120x25mm Standard Fan x 1 (1200rpm, 17 dBA)
(can be swapped for 90mm fan or 80mm fan)
Bottom: Supports 140mm Fan x 1 or 120mm Fan x 1 w/ Dust Filter (optional)
Side: Supports 200x30mm Fan x 1 (optional)
120x25mm Fan x 2 (optional)
Expansion Slots Standard x 7, Special x 1
I/O Panel USB2.0 x 4; IEEE1394 x 1; eSATA x 1; Mic x 1; HD Audio+AC'97 x 1 
Power Supply Standard ATX PS2 / EPS 12V (optional)


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reload_X*


the 240 rad can fit in the front of a tt element t?


Looks like it does, does your hdd cage come out completely?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Yes:


Thats actually the sniper, similar but not the same. I went to the page on there for the scout and it doesn't say that same info. Not sure where i would put it in my case.

Not really interested in mounting it outside of the case.


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Anyone got the 240 in a cooler master storm scout?


check out the storm scout case club for info

EDIT: looks like you're either going to have 120mm radiators or mod the top of the case to fit the 240

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...cout-i-ii.html


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;11853601*
> check out the storm scout case club for info
> 
> EDIT: looks like you're either going to have 120mm radiators or mod the top of the case to fit the 240
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/525009-official-coolermaster-storm-scout-i-ii.html


Will do.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Did anyone installed a RS 240 kit on a Lancool Dragonlord K62?


----------



## UnFeX3

Here is my RS240 in my red antec 902 add me







:


----------



## KGIXXER7

Welcome Fex







nice rig


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnFeX3;11854161*
> Here is my RS240 in my red antec 902
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> [/URL]
> [URL=http://www.plaatjesupload.nl/bekijken/3367772.html][IMG alt="1293899975-640.jpg"]http://www.plaatjesupload.nl/bekijk/2011/01/01/1293899975-640.jpg[/URL]
> [URL=http://www.plaatjesupload.nl/bekijken/3367780.html][IMG alt="1293900111-390.jpg"]http://www.plaatjesupload.nl/bekijk/2011/01/01/1293900111-390.jpg[/URL][/QUOTE]
> 
> Nice setup. Just a quick question - seeing as you've got the res at the top, how did you fill it? Did you leave enough slack on the tubing to pull the res forward, or something else?


----------



## JMCB

What paste comes w/ the kit?


----------



## mbudden

Crappy paste. Recommended to buy some other paste.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMCB;11854794*
> What paste comes w/ the kit?


Paste of internet-addicted virgins.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMCB;11854794*
> What paste comes w/ the kit?


I comes with a ceramique type paste.
I used it for a while.


----------



## UnFeX3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11854774*
> Nice setup. Just a quick question - seeing as you've got the res at the top, how did you fill it? Did you leave enough slack on the tubing to pull the res forward, or something else?


Yes, the tubes are quite loose.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnFeX3;11855652*
> Yes, the tubes are quite loose.


Cool, thanks for the info. I'm planning to do the same with mine too, but I'm going for an all-internal setup, so the rad has to be at the very top of the case.


----------



## jam3s

I love my XSPC kit, besides the fact that I mounted the res/pump the wrong way


----------



## Gigalisk

SO, i was thinking about grabbing one of these for Project tenebris...question.

How big is the resbay? From the Pictures, it looks like its 2U.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11856820*
> SO, i was thinking about grabbing one of these for Project tenebris...question.
> 
> How big is the resbay? From the Pictures, it looks like its 2U.


it occupies a 5.25" Bay
Quote:


> - Dimensions: 149 x 100 x 85mm (WxDxH)


----------



## whoadude

I just got my 360 kit and was excited to install it over the holiday, but found that my radiator/fan screws are missing! Has this happened to anyone else?


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whoadude;11856907*
> I just got my 360 kit and was excited to install it over the holiday, but found that my radiator/fan screws are missing! Has this happened to anyone else?


oh man that sucks, I got exactly 12 screws


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11856874*
> it occupies a 5.25" Bay


takes up 2 bays.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whoadude;11856907*
> I just got my 360 kit and was excited to install it over the holiday, but found that my radiator/fan screws are missing! Has this happened to anyone else?


it uses 6/32 screws basic case screws but depending how you mount it you dont want them to be to long so you dont go thru a important part of the rad.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

From what ive heard this kit does not come with a backplate for the CPU block? Is it possible to use my backplate from my current cooler(hyperN520)? I dont know if I have the stock backplate...


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11856946*
> takes up 2 bays.


my bad, I meant two bays lol


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11856952*
> From what ive heard this kit does not come with a backplate for the CPU block? Is it possible to use my backplate from my current cooler(hyperN520)? I dont know if I have the stock backplate...


This is true and many of us are not comfortable applying pressure JUST to the motherboard. thrasherht was good enough to post the mod he made a few pages back (pg 7). I found it after I had made mine, I just didn't sand down the posts on mine. Other than that, it's the same as his.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11856952*
> From what ive heard this kit does not come with a backplate for the CPU block? Is it possible to use my backplate from my current cooler(hyperN520)? I dont know if I have the stock backplate...


I did a backplate mod for the AMD mounting using a stock backplate.

http://www.overclock.net/11585144-post62.html
there is the link, it is also in the OP for the club.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11857027*
> This is true and many of us are not comfortable applying pressure JUST to the motherboard. thrasherht was good enough to post the mod he made a few pages back (pg 7). I found it after I had made mine, I just didn't sand down the posts on mine. Other than that, it's the same as his.


The problem is I dont believe I have the stock backplate, I have the plate that came with my hyperN cooler.. I assume they all work relatively the same? Just evens out the pressure correct?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11857069*
> The problem is I dont believe I have the stock backplate, I have the plate that came with my hyperN cooler.. I assume they all work relatively the same? Just evens out the pressure correct?


Correct, just make sure no metal is touching the delicates of the back of the mobo


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11857079*
> Correct, just make sure no metal is touching the delicates of the back of the mobo


For reference I used my Tuniq backplate for mounting the waterblock, they're the same (the one that came with the waterblock and the tuniq back plate)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11857069*
> The problem is I dont believe I have the stock backplate, I have the plate that came with my hyperN cooler.. I assume they all work relatively the same? Just evens out the pressure correct?


It isn't so much as evening out the pressure as it is taking the pressure being applied to the CPU and giving it something to push against, which prevents the motherboard from getting bent/bowed.

yea i just took the stock backplate and drilled out the screw holes with a drill press.
If your hyper backplate has the right sized threads to let the bolts through then use that.
You could also drill it out, but I wouldn't advise destroying it incase you want to use the cooler on something else.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

If you Google "Backplate AMD CPU Socket AM3" you get a buttload of results, so modding a backplate you currently have becomes a non-issue.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11857205*
> If you Google "Backplate AMD CPU Socket AM3" you get a buttload of results, so modding a backplate you currently have becomes a non-issue.


Yes, that is why I wasn't worried about modding a stock plate, they are easy to get your hands on.
Plus some of those backplates are plastic, so they won't prevent the board from bowing under the pressure.
You want a solid metal backplate like I used for mine.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11857729*
> Yes, that is why I wasn't worried about modding a stock plate, they are easy to get your hands on.
> Plus some of those backplates are plastic, so they won't prevent the board from bowing under the pressure.
> You want a solid metal backplate like I used for mine.


Absolutely, the stock back plate is king shiat for this kit!


----------



## kingofyo1

For the Guy who asked about the Rad screws they are in the Rad box in a cardboard package that's very small. Check again


----------



## KGIXXER7

yeah true, I almost dismissed them as junk, but looked twice and found the screws


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11856953*
> my bad, I meant two bays lol


Werd...next paycheck...iBuy.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11859094*
> Werd...next paycheck...iBuy.


yayyyyyyyyy! the XSPC kit is sickkkk


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11858887*
> yeah true, I almost dismissed them as junk, but looked twice and found the screws


Lol i did the same with my silver coil sence it was just in a piece of cardboard.


----------



## ErBall

leak testing my new rig.


----------



## KGIXXER7

awesome erball...what tubing brand did ya go with?


----------



## ErBall

Tubing is primochill 7/16 and I replaced the barbs with bitspower 1/2 barbs. I obviously added an EK block as well.


----------



## Gigalisk

Hey can the 750 kit support proc w/ 2 vidcards in loops?


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gigalisk*


Hey can the 750 kit support proc w/ 2 vidcards in loops?


If you got the RX360 kit, sure.
You'd be on the limits of the pump however. There was someone (wermad) who ran 5 blocks and 2 rads off of it though.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Lol i did the same with my silver coil sence it was just in a piece of cardboard.


Mine was in a little tube... Strange lol.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


If you got the RX360 kit, sure.
You'd be on the limits of the pump however. There was someone (wermad) who ran 5 blocks and 2 rads off of it though.


This.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I got mine from jab-tech they sell a silver strip that you coil yourself.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11864240*
> I got mine from jab-tech they sell a silver strip that you coil yourself.


my coil was actually a coil, it came in a clear tube with a lid on it.


----------



## Jonesey I7

hey bal3, could I use the dual res I already have, and just replace the pump inside it with a 655b? Or is the one you got somehow different?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11864345*
> hey bal3, could I use the dual res I already have, and just replace the pump inside it with a 655b? Or is the one you got somehow different?


No the pumps mount differtly you would have to get the d5 res about 50 bucks and 50-60 for the mcp 655 b pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11864251*
> my coil was actually a coil, it came in a clear tube with a lid on it.


From jab-tech ?


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11864497*
> No the pumps mount differtly.


although, the MCP-655 pump is a great pump.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11864507*
> although, the MCP-655 pump is a great pump.


Yea its performing good in my loop hard to get all the bubbles out way it mounts inside the bay res.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11864497*
> From jab-tech ?


Jab sells them as just strips of silver don't they?

IandH @ frozencpu.com(Where I assumed he purchased) sell them in bottles coiled up already.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea jab sells a 8 inch and 12 inch you coil as large or small yourself


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11864507*
> although, the MCP-655 pump is a great pump.


Yeah i have that Swifty pump in my Sig Rig...2 years and going strong!


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11865772*
> Yeah i have that Swifty pump in my Sig Rig...2 years and going strong!


It's pretty powerful too. I loved my old one, now I have the H20 pump/res


----------



## ckybam3

if I got a rs360 could I put a gpu loop on it (with the existing cpu ofc)? I am wondering if the pump could handle a cpu and gpu loop. cant find the rx anywhere for a decent price.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

jab-tech has the rx360 its 40 bucks more then the rs360 worth it cause the rad is alot bigger. and yes the pump can handle a gpu and cpu.


----------



## Spykerv

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=105157
o_o
O_O
0__________________0


----------



## [Adz]

I looked through the first few posts and thought "lol, this guy is either crazy or high".
Then I look through the rest of the first page and though "Woah... he's both"
But damn, that looks kinda awesome. Gonna go look through the rest now.


----------



## mbudden

If it works.... It works?!?


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spykerv;11867395*
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=105157
> o_o
> O_O
> 0__________________0


good god


----------



## nugget toes

on xspc water now, add me


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11867614*
> good god


lmaooo


----------



## urdeath007

Found my rchg. btry. stuff n will take a few blah pics. I've kinda made up in my mind what I'm going to change to it.

Currently I have just the CPU on the loop right now. idles around 30c while under 75% load with folding it's at 50c. That's just the cpu on the loop. I'm not sure what the water temp is at yet as I haven't set everything up til my gpu block arrives.

I'm considering putting the H50 back on so as to put the gpu on the loop & mobo because despite the now 9 fans running + my huge sidecase fan the gpu fan insists on being at 80% which is an annoying decibel level this 480 fan makes. So soon as that block arrives that ****er is going on water to ease noise pollution. I'll try everything on the same wat[/LIST]er loop for a little while to see what 75% load temps are.

I think why my H50 wasn't yielding results was due to ****tay tim which I want to try it w/ artic silver since I've got enough to make the test seem worthwhile.

So the changes I'm probably going to make are as follows. Thoughts?

H50 + artic silver
gpu block & mobo on wc loop
put radiator on back outside of case
put on filter material outside of fans
=test period of two weeks.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11866042*
> jab-tech has the rx360 its 40 bucks more then the rs360 worth it cause the rad is alot bigger. and yes the pump can handle a gpu and cpu.


so if the pump can handle it could the rs cool a gpu and cpu if i wasnt putting a ton of heat through both? I am wondering cuz I am pondering if I want to buy it.


----------



## [Adz]

Finally got through to the end of that thread...








3 comments:

1) 2v+ on the CPU... Makes me cringe. I wasn't into hardware so much back in 06, so I've always been using much lower volts. Nowadays, they don't even use 2v for DICE runs.
2) He watercooled his PSU, made an awesome res/window, and even made his own anti-kink coils!! He's like the MacGyver of watercooling!
3) About the overclock:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



That would have broken my heart. All that work for a measly .11GHz more than what he had on air cooling... That would hurt like hell.


----------



## incurablegeek

Hope you guys don't mind if I hang out on your thread. I am not at all knew to building my own rigs, but am a complete neub when it comes to water cooling.

Only one question: How do you decide on the XSPC Rasa 750 as opposed to other liquid cooling kits.

The rig I desire to liquid cool: AMD 1090T 6-Core, Asus CrossHair IV Formula board, 16 GB Corsair RAM and enough TB's of storage to hold the Library of Congress.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11868139*
> so if the pump can handle it could the rs cool a gpu and cpu if i wasnt putting a ton of heat through both? I am wondering cuz I am pondering if I want to buy it.


I have the rx360 rad with a mcp655-b pump and my gpu and cpu are cooled good. And you have a cooler running cpu then me so the 750 pump should do fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incurablegeek;11868300*
> Hope you guys don't mind if I hang out on your thread. I am not at all knew to building my own rigs, but am a complete neub when it comes to water cooling.
> 
> Only one question: How do you decide on the XSPC Rasa 750 as opposed to other liquid cooling kits.
> 
> The rig I desire to liquid cool: AMD 1090T 6-Core, Asus CrossHair IV Formula board, 16 GB Corsair RAM and enough TB's of storage to hold the Library of Congress.


So far rasa is only one with realy good parts for a price thats not thru the roof.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incurablegeek;11868300*
> Hope you guys don't mind if I hang out on your thread. I am not at all knew to building my own rigs, but am a complete neub when it comes to water cooling.
> 
> Only one question: How do you decide on the XSPC Rasa 750 as opposed to other liquid cooling kits.
> 
> The rig I desire to liquid cool: AMD 1090T 6-Core, Asus CrossHair IV Formula board, 16 GB Corsair RAM and enough TB's of storage to hold the Library of Congress.


It's better than a H50/H70 setup, cheaper than buying all the parts individually (simpler too for newbies), and offers great performance and flexibility since the kits are available in a range of configurations.

10TB of HDD space?


----------



## kingofyo1

hey guys, checking in again.. Putting my 460 under water, but not sure which cooler block to grab for it :/ the koolace one looks good, and I've read it performs alright. Anything better, and do the mounts differ between 460s or is it all the same?


----------



## ErBall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11868739*
> hey guys, checking in again.. Putting my 460 under water, but not sure which cooler block to grab for it :/ the koolace one looks good, and I've read it performs alright. Anything better, and do the mounts differ between 460s or is it all the same?


Your gonna put a 100$ plus waterblock on a card that practically costs the same?


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:


> It's better than a H50/H70 setup, cheaper than buying all the parts individually (simpler too for newbies), and offers great performance and flexibility since the kits are available in a range of configurations.


Very compelling argument. Thanks!

For me mentioning the H50 is tantamount to vulgarity. I have done about 5-7 installs, failed every time, bent pins on my 6-core, so I'm throwing the %@&%# thing out the window. I'll probably go with another Tuniq Tower (heresy here I know) but I need to repair my damaged confidence since I am also setting up (learning curve) two SSD's.
Quote:


> 10TB of HDD space?


Ah, right now something over 9 TB but if you are saying that you have 10TB or above, I will order more. My OCD does not permit defeat!


----------



## kingofyo1

well a card that cost me 176 post tax, yes.. I wanna overclock it further than i can on air, and I need the water to do it. Which block should I go with, the koolace or EK?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;11868753*
> Your gonna put a 100$ plus waterblock on a card that practically costs the same?


This is why I didn't buy a WB for my 8800GT.


----------



## ErBall

sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, but i finally got it all up and running.

Consists of:
XSPC Rasa RX360 kit
Primochill 7/16
Bitspower 1/2 barbs
EK FC gtx570 block

Temps are pretty good, the GPU maxes out at a whopping 42c, cpu at stock bounces around 55c-ish.


----------



## KGIXXER7

sweet erBall...looks good


----------



## ErBall

I like it, now i just want there to be a good full cover mobo block.


----------



## kingofyo1

the 460 will be around for a long time hopefully, which means i wont have to upgrade for a couple years to get something 2x better for same price. I may as well get a block now and put it under.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11868795*
> well a card that cost me 176 post tax, yes.. I wanna overclock it further than i can on air, and I need the water to do it. Which block should I go with, the koolace or EK?


Id go with ek on avg thier blocks are the best for all cards.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11868937*
> Id go with ek on avg thier blocks are the best for all cards.


I'll be getting an EK full cover for my GTX 470 sometime soon. Kinda wish I didn't blow so much money on games lol.

EK ftw


----------



## Jonesey I7

I LOVE MY EK BLOCK!!!! This thing is easy to install, performs magically, and looks cool as chit!!


----------



## ErBall

Quick temp test, just ran IBT @ max @ 4ghz @ 1.3v and the hottest core @ 71c?

How does that fare?


----------



## RushMore1205

im very happy this kit, came out becasue this helps bring more people into the watercooling market, and sure drives the competiotion to lower their prices on block etc.

this is a great kit i have used it in 3 customer builds now


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Whats your amb that sounds about right might drop some once all the bubbles are gone.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11864497*
> From jab-tech ?


No.








From frozencpu.
speaking of which I need to get a few parts from there for my wooden xbox mod.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;11869482*
> Quick temp test, just ran IBT @ max @ 4ghz @ 1.3v and the hottest core @ 71c?
> 
> How does that fare?


Heres my temps at 4300 1.35 vcore i have the rx360 rad tho.


----------



## chano305

Hi all,

I'm toying with the idea of getting a Rasa RS240 kit for my rig, and I was wondering if anyone can supply the dimensions for the screw mounts of the 240 rad? I'm trying to find out if I'll be able to mount it to the top of my HAF 922 without modding it. I know the dimensions for the rad itself, I'm looking for dimensions of the screw holes (center to center hopefully).

Help-a-noob







much appreciated!


----------



## ErBall

I have the rx360 rad too, perhaps a remount is needed.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;11869640*
> I have the rx360 rad too, perhaps a remount is needed.


Maybe it took me a ton of trys to get my mount perfect i tried like 50 times till i got it right lol and i lapped my cpu also.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;11869631*
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm toying with the idea of getting a Rasa RS240 kit for my rig, and I was wondering if anyone can supply the dimensions for the screw mounts of the 240 rad? I'm trying to find out if I'll be able to mount it to the top of my HAF 922 without modding it. I know the dimensions for the rad itself, I'm looking for dimensions of the screw holes (center to center hopefully).
> 
> Help-a-noob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> much appreciated!


I know their 6-32 Case and Fan Screws but not sure how long they go thru the fans and just a little on the rad.


----------



## thrasherht

Everybody should go check out my xbox mod that i have in my sig. it is super sweet, and if i could watercool it, i totally would.
why does it have to be locked to overclocking.


----------



## sgilmore62

I ordered the RX240 kit from Jabtech awhile ago, plan on getting a GPU block and another rad soon. Wonder how hard it would be to swap out the pump for a mcp655?

Wanted to mount the RX240 vertically on my case door but realized this rad with fans is going be too thick by about a half inch -- going to hit my video card. Oh well, I can put the second rad on the door when I get it. Should get my kit middle of the week or so, can't wait to replace my Noctua HSF. The Noctua performs well but it's ugly. Been wanting to watercool my GPU for awhile even though the Accelero extreme cooler works pretty well.


----------



## wheth4400

Sprry for the delay in pics, been having too much fun OC'ing under water, but alas here are the other pics as promised.

















































EDIT:
I never put the add me in either of my posts lol


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11869695*
> I ordered the RX240 kit from Jabtech awhile ago, plan on getting a GPU block and another rad soon. Wonder how hard it would be to swap out the pump for a mcp655?
> 
> Wanted to mount the RX240 vertically on my case door but realized this rad with fans is going be too thick by about a half inch -- going to hit my video card. Oh well, I can put the second rad on the door when I get it. Should get my kit middle of the week or so, can't wait to replace my Noctua HSF. The Noctua performs well but it's ugly. Been wanting to watercool my GPU for awhile even though the Accelero extreme cooler works pretty well.


what are you doing with the noctue stuff?


----------



## ErBall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11869660*
> Maybe it took me a ton of trys to get my mount perfect i tried like 50 times till i got it right lol and i lapped my cpu also.


I know my cpu needs lapped, its FAR from flat. In the same breath, my gpu puts out a fair amount more heat than yours as well. I also have low cfm fans @ only 7v. So it could all be the same in the end perhaps.

I'm still pleased.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11869695*
> I ordered the RX240 kit from Jabtech awhile ago, plan on getting a GPU block and another rad soon. Wonder how hard it would be to swap out the pump for a mcp655?
> 
> Wanted to mount the RX240 vertically on my case door but realized this rad with fans is going be too thick by about a half inch -- going to hit my video card. Oh well, I can put the second rad on the door when I get it. Should get my kit middle of the week or so, can't wait to replace my Noctua HSF. The Noctua performs well but it's ugly. Been wanting to watercool my GPU for awhile even though the Accelero extreme cooler works pretty well.


You can replace the pump but you wont be able to use the res/pump you can buy a d5 res that you can put the mcp655 in tho.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11869712*
> what are you doing with the noctue stuff?


Wasn't planning on doing anything with it. Why, do you want it?


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheth4400;11869706*
> Sprry for the delay in pics, been having too much fun OC'ing under water, but alas here are the other pics as promised.


Nice wheth









black and blue is nice


----------



## wheth4400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11869797*
> Nice wheth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> black and blue is nice


Thanks, I kind of like it myself lol. I am thinking about getting the MB water block and adding it to the loop. Just not sure if the loop can handle the extra block, and if the rad can handle the extra heat.


----------



## sgilmore62

Can you post some temps wheth4400?


----------



## wheth4400

I am seeing 42/43 load temps with a 4.2GHZ OC on my X6.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11869732*
> You can replace the pump but you wont be able to use the res/pump you can buy a d5 res that you can put the mcp655 in tho.


Thx for the reply, can you mount the X2O 750 in any orientation? i was thinking of mounting it vertically in a different location than the drive bay in a horizontal orientation. I don't like how the tubes go across the case with pump/res in drive bay. Would rather have pump/res on left side of case and have shorter more consolidated tubing.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I dont thk that will work might cause the pump to suck in alot of air.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheth4400;11869891*
> I am seeing 42/43 load temps with a 4.2GHZ OC on my X6.


That sounds pretty good, my I7-930 idles in low 40's @4.3Ghz and 1.35 CPU voltage with my DH-9F.


----------



## wheth4400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11869897*
> Thx for the reply, can you mount the X2O 750 in any orientation? i was thinking of mounting it vertically in a different location than the drive bay in a horizontal orientation. I don't like how the tubes go across the case with pump/res in drive bay. Would rather have pump/res on left side of case and have shorter more consolidated tubing.


I would imagine it would work as long as there was more than enough fluid in there. However it would be a pita to fill, and pita to drain, and not to mention there high chance of air entering the pump.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11869946*
> That sounds pretty good, my I7-930 idles in low 40's @4.3Ghz and 1.35 CPU voltage with my DH-9F.


What load temp with my rx360 rad my i7 at 4.3 1.35 volts hits right at 71c in ibt. And my 5870 tops out at 40c on core and in 50s on vrms at 100% load.


----------



## sgilmore62

My DH-9F tops out low 70's IBT but ambient is lower than what it is in the summer. My 5970 cores stay pretty cool with Furmark, etc. with Accleroxtreme but VRM's get too hot. I can run my 5970 920/1250 stable with voltage @1.1625/1.15

When I get a GPU block and another rad want to flash vbios to higher clocks/voltages so I don't have to mess with software overclocks.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol you get good temps already your 930 must be a cool chip.


----------



## sgilmore62

My case is facing a drafty sliding glass door lol. I did run it at 4.2 stable with low 70's max this past summer, though.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Hey, how much should I sell my pump/res and rad for? Putting it up for sale, club member get first dibs if you want to upgrade from your 240.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


My case is facing a drafty sliding glass door lol. I did run it at 4.2 stable with low 70's max this past summer, though.


Ah lol my room stays around 75-80f now sence heat is on.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Hey, how much should I sell my pump/res and rad for? Putting it up for sale, club member get first dibs if you want to upgrade from your 240.


check prices on jab-tech and sidewindercomputers as they seem to be cheapest places and take like 10-20% off the price shipped would be fair.


----------



## sgilmore62

I keep it between 65-70 in the winter and 70-75 in summer. My parents keep their house warm like yours in the winter. Have to crack open a window in the bedroom when I visit them lol.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Hey, how much should I sell my pump/res and rad for? Putting it up for sale, club member get first dibs if you want to upgrade from your 240.


 Are you upgrading your pump/res rad or going back to air?


----------



## chano305

Sorry to double post it but can anyone help me out with the RS240 rad mounting dimensions? I assume the two fan mountings are the standard 10.5cm center-to-center dimension, but my concern is the center-to-center dimension of adjacent fan mountings (in other words the small dimension in between where the 2 fans ago, what is the dimension between those 2 mounting holes?). The mounts on my case are about 1.8cm center-to-center.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


Are you upgrading your pump/res rad or going back to air?


upgrading (as usual lol) Gonna pick up a mcp655 variable and xspc dual res made for it and a Gtx Xtreme Black Ice 360 rad.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chano305*


Sorry to double post it but can anyone help me out with the RS240 rad mounting dimensions? I assume the two fan mountings are the standard 10.5cm center-to-center dimension, but my concern is the center-to-center dimension of adjacent fan mountings (in other words the small dimension in between where the 2 fans ago, what is the dimension between those 2 mounting holes?). The mounts on my case are about 1.8cm center-to-center.


fans are pretty much touching each other atleast its how it is on my rx360.


----------



## man00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11869993*
> What load temp with my rx360 rad my i7 at 4.3 1.35 volts hits right at 71c in ibt. And my 5870 tops out at 40c on core and in 50s on vrms at 100% load.


are you happy with those temps?


----------



## chano305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11870395*
> fans are pretty much touching each other atleast its how it is on my rx360.


Is there any way you could measure the dimension between the two closest screws? This is pretty much what decides if I get the kit or not :S


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Just line up 2 or 3 120mm fans and thats how the screws line up.


----------



## KGIXXER7

by a quick measure it looks like 15mm to me from center screw to center screw.


----------



## Haseo461x

add me


----------



## Reload_X

can somebody tell the width of rad+fan please im too drunk to search the thread


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reload_X*


can somebody tell the width of rad+fan please im too drunk to search the thread


 RX or RS? The RX is 2.3 inches(58.5mm) thick without the fan. The RS is 1.38(35mm) inches without.


----------



## ckybam3

Does the kit come with screws to do push pull and mount it all in the same thing? or does it only support fans on one side? God I am so tempted watercooling at 200 or less is just like....cant say no....must....need to keep h50 to save money......damn u rasa


----------



## Bal3Wolf

It only comes with enugh for push or pull but what i did was put 2 screws in each fan and that works fine.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11871117*
> Does the kit come with screws to do push pull and mount it all in the same thing? or does it only support fans on one side? God I am so tempted watercooling at 200 or less is just like....cant say no....must....need to keep h50 to save money......damn u rasa


Lol, you won't regret it. The lower end RASA kits, like the RS240 will outperform that H50 by 10C-15C. Not to mention you can upgrade your parts later in the future. Also, the screws you can get at any local hardware store.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7*


some pics of it in the new rig...


Which kit do you have?

& I added a bunch of people to the list. Please check and see if I added you, if not. Do let me know so I can fix that. Another thing, when you post pictures. Make sure that you post which kit you have. It makes it a little bit easier


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


& I added a bunch of people to the list. Please check and see if I added you, if not. Do let me know so I can fix that. Another thing, when you post pictures. Make sure that you post which kit you have. It makes it a little bit easier










I should be receiving my RS360 kit this week (fingers crossed)...









Do I get a "Receiving Soon" add-in???


----------



## jak3z

I keep trying to find someone who will bring the kit to Spain


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I should be receiving my RS360 kit this week (fingers crossed)...









Do I get a "Receiving Soon" add-in???


Added









Quote:



Originally Posted by *jak3z*


I keep trying to find someone who will bring the kit to Spain


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jak3z*


I keep trying to find someone who will bring the kit to Spain










Send me 2 round trip tickets (wife won't let me go alone!) and I will hand carry it for you!!! Door delivery for free if you want.


----------



## jak3z

Not funny =(


----------



## chano305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7*


by a quick measure it looks like 15mm to me from center screw to center screw.


hmph, if it fits its gonna be real tight, the mount holes on my case are channels versus simple holes so there is a little wiggle room. We'll see.

I asked on another thread but I'll ask again here for more direct experience: would the Rasa RS240 kit be enough to cool a i7-930 at 3.6 GHz and a stock GTX 580? Or would I need to add more rad?

I was told it'd be enough even further overclocking the cpu and gpu. What I'm looking for is a quieter pc (so they also recommended GT 15s). What do you guys think?


----------



## Spykerv

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Finally got through to the end of that thread...








3 comments:

1) 2v+ on the CPU... Makes me cringe. I wasn't into hardware so much back in 06, so I've always been using much lower volts. Nowadays, they don't even use 2v for DICE runs.
2) He watercooled his PSU, made an awesome res/window, and even made his own anti-kink coils!! He's like the MacGyver of watercooling!
3) About the overclock: That would have broken my heart. All that work for a measly .11GHz more than what he had on air cooling... That would hurt like hell.


Dude it was heart breaking.. But man he is amazing!! Gotta meet this guy, even if he lives in Croatia and I'll never see him. He should start classes on how to water cool.

Also has anyone besides slappa tried the sloshbox mod which he discovered? 
He put the rad of his h50 in ice in a cooler and got lower temps ? Makes me wanna install a box and fill with ice inside my HAF whenevr I start my pc, and submerge my rad in it. It be completely silent and colder? Is that possible??


----------



## Liighthead

*crosses fingers * should have a DC 750 Kits 360.

trying to work out where to mount it...
got a centrion 590 








that ^
was thinking about mounting it on the top. but would be external. ( i dont mind to much )

thoughts?

or i have a nzxt vulcan lol.. but dont think would be our 2 fit it in. with the 2 x 5.25bay pump/rez combo thing :] ... well got a idear, but dont have the money to mod it ;D that much


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


*crosses fingers * should have a DC 750 Kits 360.

trying to work out where to mount it...
got a centrion 590 
that ^
was thinking about mounting it on the top. but would be external. ( i dont mind to much )

thoughts?

or i have a nzxt vulcan lol.. but dont think would be our 2 fit it in. with the 2 x 5.25bay pump/rez combo thing :] ... well got a idear, but dont have the money to mod it ;D that much


 I would make a cutout in the top and mount it either internally or on top externally. If you don't mind it being outside the case, external is better.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


I would make a cutout in the top and mount it either internally or on top externally. If you don't mind it being outside the case, external is better.


mmm well it aint fitting between the mobo n top. so yeh ontop its going onside xD

thatll be the best place you reakon? then i can add some more fans later on if wanted to ontop :] 







the 3 fans it comes with. ontop or on inside xD

ahhh work it out when get here i spose lol carnt wait ;D


----------



## sgilmore62

I think mounted vertically on the side or back is preferable to horizontal because it's easier to bleed the air out of the rad. afaik it's not possible to bleed air out in a horizontal config, it comes out when it comes out.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incurablegeek;11868783*
> Ah, right now something over 9 TB but if you are saying that you have 10TB or above, I will order more. My OCD does not permit defeat!


I have 11GB

Lol jk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11872791*
> *crosses fingers * should have a DC 750 Kits 360.
> 
> trying to work out where to mount it...
> got a centrion 590
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that ^
> was thinking about mounting it on the top. but would be external. ( i dont mind to much )
> 
> thoughts?
> 
> or i have a nzxt vulcan lol.. but dont think would be our 2 fit it in. with the 2 x 5.25bay pump/rez combo thing :] ... well got a idear, but dont have the money to mod it ;D that much


That case has plenty of mod potential. Here's what I'm seeing:
Res/pump sitting on top of the case at the front.
Brushed, black anodised aluminium box around the top, sides and back of the res, sealing on to the case.
Either have the back coming down at an angle so the tubing is covered, or leave the tubing exposed. I'd personally cover the tubing, because then it allows you to cover the LEDs you're going to put in it.
Of course, LEDs! So you put two red LEDs in it, and you have the XSPC faceplate on. What I didn't mention is that the aluminium box you have around the res has an intricate design cut out, or maybe even just very sharp line patterns. Those cutouts glow beautifully when the LEDs are on.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11872876*
> I think mounted vertically on the side or back is preferable to horizontal because it's easier to bleed the air out of the rad. afaik it's not possible to bleed air out in a horizontal config, it comes out when it comes out.


mmmm bleed then mount? lol might mount on back. but it would have to sit a fair bit back away from the case. for cables ect lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11872926*
> 
> That case has plenty of mod potential. Here's what I'm seeing:
> Res/pump sitting on top of the case at the front.
> Brushed, black anodised aluminium box around the top, sides and back of the res, sealing on to the case.
> Either have the back coming down at an angle so the tubing is covered, or leave the tubing exposed. I'd personally cover the tubing, because then it allows you to cover the LEDs you're going to put in it.
> Of course, LEDs! So you put two red LEDs in it, and you have the XSPC faceplate on. What I didn't mention is that the aluminium box you have around the res has an intricate design cut out, or maybe even just very sharp line patterns. Those cutouts glow beautifully when the LEDs are on.


lol tbh i dont really like lights. being that my comp is on 99% of the time. so can get annoying during the night.

but yeah i agree they look pretty sweet with it in their ;D

if its all sealed. the tube would pretty much be parrell wouldnt it? going from rez to cpu and back to rad.
( going to add my gpu in their someday. but dont think will be in this case lol )

if it hung out the back. one tube would goto the cpu. other to the rez at the front. hidden behind would be the tube from the rad ( if u know what i mean >.< )

but yeah idk if would like it out the back compaired to the top xD ( being picky? lol )

not sure :/


----------



## thrgk

looks like u put it all around, not where i put my h70 one tho, so have to remove my 230mm fan at the top?
Also does this seem right, im at 4.3ghz at 1.49 volts HT off and seems this is as high as i can get stable with i7 950
PS how did u get ur i7950 at 4.2 with the volts around 1.28 man?


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk;11873981*
> looks like u put it all around, not where i put my h70 one tho, so have to remove my 230mm fan at the top?
> Also does this seem right, im at 4.3ghz at 1.49 volts HT off and seems this is as high as i can get stable with i7 950
> PS how did u get ur i7950 at 4.2 with the volts around 1.28 man?


1. 99% sure if u remove the 230mm fan on top there'll be 2 x 120mm spaces for fans. or with a h70 you could mount on rear exhaust fan.

2. who are you asking about the i7 950 about?

3. different chips get different ocs... some cant get 4ghz.. some can ect..

4. 1.49 seams a fair bit to high lol


----------



## chano305

So opinions? Will a RS240 kit cope with a i7-930 and a GTX 580?


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;11874168*
> So opinions? Will a RS240 kit cope with a i7-930 and a GTX 580?


dont know TO much bout wcing.. but pretty sure it wont...

just the i7 yeah, but not both :]


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;11874168*
> So opinions? Will a RS240 kit cope with a i7-930 and a GTX 580?


You may want to read a couple pages back to make sure BUT I believe that you would need the RX240 or any of the 360 series rad's in order to effectively cool both the CPU and a GPU. Your best (and safest) bet is to go with a 360.


----------



## thrgk

OK just got BSOD STOP CODE 0X3B. Also when i lower VCORE i crash more.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk;11874347*
> OK just got BSOD STOP CODE 0X3B. Also when i lower VCORE i crash more.


you gotta keep you vcore below 1.375V ( i belive ) for the i7 950..
or youll do damage to your cpu lol...
soooo... your choice


----------



## thrgk

When I lowerrd it to 1.30 I can't boot tho and my CPU is cool at 1.48


----------



## Liighthead

lower ur cpu oc... or itll start killing your cpu,,,, what eva lol


----------



## thrgk

so i can oc to 4ghz? even if my temp is ok?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;11874168*
> So opinions? Will a RS240 kit cope with a i7-930 and a GTX 580?


Nope. You'd be pushing the limits of an RX240, let alone an RS240. An RS360 would probably be just enough, but ideally, you'd be using an RX360.
If space is a concern, use multiple rads (RX240 + RX120) or mount externally.


----------



## thrgk

wait Adz, so does rasa RX 360 liquid cool cpu and gpu? or just cpu?


----------



## KGIXXER7

just CPU, but you could add a water block to your gpu and it would work fine


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk;11874903*
> wait Adz, so does rasa RX 360 liquid cool cpu and gpu? or just cpu?


Both...

Edit - But you would need to get the extra GPU water block, tubing, etc. The kit only comes for the CPU.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Ok, just did my taxes.......... and i'm getting back......... !!$9,050!! I'm feeling a super upgrade coming.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk;11874903*
> wait Adz, so does rasa RX 360 liquid cool cpu and gpu? or just cpu?


It depends on the GPU and CPU.
Here's a rough outline I posted a few days ago
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11842056*
> If you're going for CPU only, an RS240 will do.
> If you're going to add a GPU block too, go for an RX240 or an RS360.
> If you have multiple GPU blocks, go for an RS360 or RX360.


Running a combination of an i7-930 and GTX580 on an RS240 makes me a little uneasy, since they both put out a decent amount of heat.

With an RX360, you could do both CPU and GPU.


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11875081*
> Ok, just did my taxes.......... and i'm getting back......... !!$9,050!! I'm feeling a super upgrade coming.










...noice


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk;11873981*
> looks like u put it all around, not where i put my h70 one tho, so have to remove my 230mm fan at the top?
> Also does this seem right, im at 4.3ghz at 1.49 volts HT off and seems this is as high as i can get stable with i7 950
> PS how did u get ur i7950 at 4.2 with the volts around 1.28 man?


Check your inbox, sent you a rough guide to oc the 950
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11874399*
> you gotta keep you vcore below 1.375V ( i belive ) for the i7 950..
> or youll do damage to your cpu lol...
> soooo... your choice


no, 1.375v is not any limit, checkout the 4.0 club an a lot of members are running higher voltages w/ super fast oc's. "thrgk" is running a bit too much voltage. Hopefully he joins the Rasa club soon and have nice temps w/ a nice oc.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Sandy Bridge, crossfire 6970's, Asus p67 board of some sort, 3 28' monitors, and whole new water setup for it. 2 weeks and the project begins.


----------



## Gigalisk

I'm about to pull the trigger on this, but i need some ideas on where to mount this on an Antec 1200...anybody done it yet? I'm figuring to post the rad on the rear two fans, and screw the fans onto the rad from the inside, then the res pump goes in the 2 CD bays above the 3 fans. I have seen that setup with the Swiftech Ultima kit on a 1200.


----------



## DiNet

So many owners and still no decent benchmarks/reviews?


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11875129*
> Sandy Bridge, crossfire 6970's, Asus p67 board of some sort, 3 28' monitors, and whole new water setup for it. 2 weeks and the project begins.


very nice jonsey


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11875129*
> Sandy Bridge, crossfire 6970's, Asus p67 board of some sort, 3 28' monitors, and whole new water setup for it. 2 weeks and the project begins.


Unless you really really need an upgrade, I'd stick it out with what you have until Ivy-bridge. Just another 12 months or so.

Come to think of it... if all goes well, I'll be sticking with Yorkfield until Rockwell (2014).


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11869667*
> Everybody should go check out my xbox mod that i have in my sig. it is super sweet, and if i could watercool it, i totally would.
> why does it have to be locked to overclocking.


The mod looks interesting. You can't watercool it? Why?
std - http://www.xspc.biz/xbox360.php & slim - http://www.xspc.biz/xbox360slim.php
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11875081*
> Ok, just did my taxes.......... and i'm getting back......... !!$9,050!! I'm feeling a super upgrade coming.


How did you manage that?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11875146*
> I'm about to pull the trigger on this, but i need some ideas on where to mount this on an Antec 1200...anybody done it yet? I'm figuring to post the rad on the rear two fans, and screw the fans onto the rad from the inside, then the res pump goes in the 2 CD bays above the 3 fans. I have seen that setup with the Swiftech Ultima kit on a 1200.


Which rad? Since you said the two exhaust fans, I'm assuming the 240, so RX or RS?
You can easily put it the front as an intake and still have 1 drive bay left. You could also put it as the exhaust as you already mentioned, but unless you have an aversion to an externally mounted rad, you'd get better performance if you mount it out the back.


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11875251*
> How did you manage that?


said he found 5 kids he didn't know he had?


----------



## chano305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11875091*
> Running a combination of an i7-930 and GTX580 on an RS240 makes me a little uneasy, since they both put out a decent amount of heat.
> 
> With an RX360, you could do both CPU and GPU.


Dang, charliehorse had recommended the RS240 kit for me, and I was largely trusting in him and hoping it'll work. How about if I added a 120 RAD at the bottom of my case? I'm trying to keep everything internal without modding the case, as I don't have any tools for cutting.

opinions? I can't fit a 360 without modding, and I dont know if a RX240 will fit


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiNet;11875177*
> So many owners and still no decent benchmarks/reviews?


If you want some temp comparisons, check the OP for links. What are you wanting to know?


----------



## wermad

the RX240 should fit in the 922, I have seen 922 members mod the case to accept a 360 rad


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiNet;11875177*
> So many owners and still no decent benchmarks/reviews?


There are links to temp comparisons on the OP. And anything you want to know we can answer. Something like the stock fans will very from person to person. The reason they push a good amount of air, but at full speed some people like me think they make too much noise, but others think they are just fine. So ask away.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;11875285*
> Dang, charliehorse had recommended the RS240 kit for me, and I was largely trusting in him and hoping it'll work. How about if I added a 120 RAD at the bottom of my case? I'm trying to keep everything internal without modding the case, as I don't have any tools for cutting.
> 
> opinions? I can't fit a 360 without modding, and I dont know if a RX240 will fit


charliehorse55 knows a lot more than me, I'd trust his advice.
But an RS240 to cool and i7-930 AND and GTX580... doesn't seem right to me. It'd really be pushing the limits

If you go for a RS240 combined with an RX120, that would probably be sufficient.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11875342*
> the RX240 should fit in the 922, I have seen 922 members mod the case to accept a 360 rad


Measure... with my deceased MSI 790FX-GD70 I would not have had clearance over the RAM. I believe with my ASUS now I might just have it now but I ordered based on the MSI mobo anyway. With the RX I believe you need to have at least 3.5" between the top of the case (if you are top mounting) and the RAM clips. This included the radiator plus a 25mm width fan.


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11875268*
> Which rad? Since you said the two exhaust fans, I'm assuming the 240, so RX or RS?
> You can easily put it the front as an intake and still have 1 drive bay left. You could also put it as the exhaust as you already mentioned, but unless you have an aversion to an externally mounted rad, you'd get better performance if you mount it out the back.


DEFINITELY have no probs with an ext. mounted rad. Have you seen my SigRig?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;11875285*
> Dang, charliehorse had recommended the RS240 kit for me, and I was largely trusting in him and hoping it'll work. How about if I added a 120 RAD at the bottom of my case? I'm trying to keep everything internal without modding the case, as I don't have any tools for cutting.
> 
> opinions? I can't fit a 360 without modding, and I dont know if a RX240 will fit


I'm running a RS240+RX120 in my sig rig. My i5 750 is running at [email protected] I'm not at home right now to post temps, but I'll post some once I get home.


----------



## chano305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11875358*
> charliehorse55 knows a lot more than me, I'd trust his advice.
> But an RS240 to cool and i7-930 AND and GTX580... doesn't seem right to me. It'd really be pushing the limits
> 
> If you go for a RS240 combined with an RX120, that would probably be sufficient.


My concern with fitting the RX240 is that there is a mobo heatsink just above the cpu socket, that I'm unsure whether I'll interfere with the rad. I'm fairly certain the mount holes will align, but that is another minor concern.

I had started a thread asking for recommendations for my rig, saying that I don't want major overclocks or amazing temps. I just want my system to be considerably quieter, and decent temps. Charliehorse recommended this, saying it'd be enough even if I OCed my cpu to 4.0 ghz and my gpu to 850, though he did recommend GT 15s to replace the stock fans.

I just like asking around as much as I can. What do you guys think?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11875358*
> charliehorse55 knows a lot more than me, I'd trust his advice.
> But an RS240 to cool and i7-930 AND and GTX580... doesn't seem right to me. It'd really be pushing the limits
> 
> If you go for a RS240 combined with an RX120, that would probably be sufficient.


Well I wouldn't plan on OC'ing with it. It would probably cool about as good a stock cooling but much quiter.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11875276*
> said he found 5 kids he didn't know he had?












Back on topic here. I just ran Prime95 x64 for 1hr 4min (all 4 cores) and got an avg of 51C @ 3.7Ghz (18.5 multi) with an ambient of 21.5C (there was a 1C rise over the hour). Previously on air with no OC, 47C @ 25.6C ambient (about a 3C rise over the hour). The only mistake I made is that I didn't crank the fans up during the first 5 minutes (got a fan controller on the rad fans now).

Interesting note, I shut down the computer overnight and the 3rd physical core started working normally after I started the test run. If ya'll remember I was having issues with the 3rd core lagging severely behind the others.

Now the interesting news, NewEgg shipped my MX-4 Dec. 30 and it's still in California. Slow boat from China maybe or possibly a pack mule from Columbia?

"Your item departed a shipping partner facility at 7:54 am on December 31, 2010 in CARSON, CA 90746. Information, if available, is updated periodically throughout the day. Please check again later.

Detailed Results:
Departed Shipping Partner Facility, December 31, 2010, 7:54 am, CARSON, CA 90746
Arrived Shipping Partner Facility, December 30, 2010, 5:00 pm, CARSON, CA 90746
Picked Up by Shipping Partner, December 30, 2010, 5:00 pm, ROWLAND HEIGHTS, CA 91748"


----------



## Gigalisk

@ [adz] - One thing i didnt note when you asked me that question is that there are 2 different Rads i can get with the kit...the 2x, or the 3x. The 3x i could post in the place of the 3 fans in the front of the Antec 1200, the 2x, as i said earlier, i can post on the back exhaust port. If i add a 580 (or 2) to the loop, the 2x is out of the question.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11875409*
> DEFINITELY have no probs with an ext. mounted rad. Have you seen my SigRig?











In that case, external mount would be better than running inside at the exhaust since the ambient temperatures will be lower and you'll get better airflow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11875410*
> I'm running a RS240+RX120 in my sig rig. My i5 750 is running at [email protected] I'm not at home right now to post temps, but I'll post some once I get home.


The only problem with comparing the i5-750 to the i7-930 is that the i5-750 has a much lower TDP of 95w, while the i7-930 is at 130w. The i7 will naturally produce more heat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;11875424*
> My concern with fitting the RX240 is that there is a mobo heatsink just above the cpu socket, that I'm unsure whether I'll interfere with the rad. I'm fairly certain the mount holes will align, but that is another minor concern.
> 
> I had started a thread asking for recommendations for my rig, saying that I don't want major overclocks or amazing temps. I just want my system to be considerably quieter, and decent temps. Charliehorse recommended this, saying it'd be enough even if I OCed my cpu to 4.0 ghz and my gpu to 850, though he did recommend GT 15s to replace the stock fans.
> 
> I just like asking around as much as I can. What do you guys think?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11875448*
> Well I wouldn't plan on OC'ing with it. It would probably cool about as good a stock cooling but much quiter.


^Pretty much what he said. With just an RS240, it'll run it at stock, but as soon as you start OCing, it won't be enough. I'm almost certain it won't be enough to handle a 4GHz OC on the CPU as well as an 850 on the GPU (though I don't know much about GPU overclocking).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11875554*
> @ [adz] - One thing i didnt note when you asked me that question is that there are 2 different Rads i can get with the kit...the 2x, or the 3x. The 3x i could post in the place of the 3 fans in the front of the Antec 1200, the 2x, as i said earlier, i can post on the back exhaust port. If i add a 580 (or 2) to the loop, the 2x is out of the question.


If you go with the RX360, the best place you could mount it is at the front as an intake. The only catch is that you'll have no space for drives, except perhaps a slimline dvd drive.
If you look at this photo for an example (I've just pulled it off google).









There are a total of twelve 5.25" bays. One 120mm slot takes up three 5.25" bays.

The top two will be used by the dual bay res/pump.
The rad will occupy 3x120mm slots - a total of nine 5.25" bays. BUT don't make the same mistake I did with my 900. The inlet and outlet extend the length of the rad by another half-height 5.25" bay. Meaning the rad occupies a total of nine and a half 5.25" bays.

Add 2 bays from the res/pump + 9.5 bays from the rad and you have a total of 11.5 bays out of 12 used.
If you go for the RX, there's no way you can mount the hard drives in their natural position. If you go for the RS, and get Nexus Doubletwin hard drive mounts, you'd have to cut one side of them but it'd leave you enough space to just about fit a hard drive behind the rad. You wouldn't be able to put a fan on the side where the hard drive is though. And there's no way you'll get a DVD drive to fit.

If you get a 580, you're right, a 240 will be out of the question. An RS360 would probably just about do it with a bit of a struggle. If you get two 580s, you need an RX360, or two RX240s.

Actually, thinking about it, if you have two RX240s - one as an intake, and the other either external or an exhaust that *should* be sufficient for a cpu + dual-gpu loop


----------



## Jonesey I7

Can someone tell me if this will work with ek blocks? I'm getting another 6870 and ek block in a week or two, and need a way to connect them together, and this is all i can find. It says only with koolance blocks, but the threads are the same so it should work fine correct? Anyone else use these? And how are they connected to the cards?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9343/koo-178/Koolance_Dual_VID_Connector_-_Adjustable_2-3_Slot_Spacing_CNT-VDA34.html?id=QRuphzCu&mv_pc=652

These are the blocks I use.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12280/ex-blc-847/EK_Radeon_HD_6870_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-FC6870-Nickel.html?id=QRuphzCu&mv_pc=1425


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11875847*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...Actually, thinking about it, if you have two RX240s - one as an intake, and the other either external or an exhaust that *should* be sufficient for a cpu + dual-gpu loop


Good call, however, if i had 2x RX240 rads, do you think the pump/res has enough head to push the amount of water needed?

Hell of a job doing the legwork for me...i'm almost positive i'm getting this. I'll stick with 2x rad for now to feel out the rating for 1 proc and then maybe a GPU. iRep+ Adz, good job.

Gigalisk
(Forward Deployed)


----------



## KGIXXER7

just did a quick OC to 4ghz at 1.275v...idles are at 39-40, and at full load in the begining temps were 66, and after 10 passes IBT very high and 8 threads it didn't go over 69.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11876674*
> just did a quick OC to 4ghz at 1.275v...idles are at 39-40, and at full load in the begining temps were 66, and after 10 passes IBT very high and 8 threads it didn't go over 69.


cool







, my 950 running ibt or vantage stays around 60c


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;11876317*
> Good call, however, if i had 2x RX240 rads, do you think the pump/res has enough head to push the amount of water needed?
> 
> Hell of a job doing the legwork for me...i'm almost positive i'm getting this. I'll stick with 2x rad for now to feel out the rating for 1 proc and then maybe a GPU. iRep+ Adz, good job.
> 
> Gigalisk
> (Forward Deployed)


No problem








As for pump head, it'd be a little on the high side, but the pump can handle it. On a scale of 1 to 10 - 1 being a total breeze, 10 being very close to blowing the pump up and 5 being the average - I'd rate a CPU + Dual GPU + Dual Rad loop at around 8.
It's more than average, but it's not going to kill the pump.


----------



## wermad

pump only has 1.8m meters of head, pretty low for a more than two blocks and two rads. hence why im switching to the ddc, that has 4.5m meters of head pressure (nominal @ 12v), the D5 3.1m.


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11876725*
> cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , my 950 running ibt or vantage stays around 60c


from your build thread I see you have push pull on your 360 right?, I have 3 more fans coming in tomorrow...wasn't sure what to do with them so I may try push pull ghetto rigging and see how that works for me. give me something to do while I am laid up still


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11876794*
> pump only has 1.8m meters of head, pretty low for a more than two blocks and two rads. hence why im switching to the ddc, that has 4.5m meters of head pressure (nominal @ 12v), the D5 3.1m.


Me too, gonna pick up the mcp655b variable speed version with the dual xspc res, and getting the gtx xtreme black ice 360 rad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11876892*
> from your build thread I see you have push pull on your 360 right?, I have 3 more fans coming in tomorrow...wasn't sure what to do with them so I may try push pull ghetto rigging and see how that works for me. give me something to do while I am laid up still


push/pull definitely helps, you can squeeze it all inside or mount them on top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11876901*
> Me too, gonna pick up the mcp655b variable speed version with the dual xspc res, and getting the gtx xtreme black ice 360 rad.


The "B" runs @ the 3rd speed option on the standard vario model, I read a review of the X20-750 pump and its rally close to the mcp B. So I would spend a bit more and get the vario model imo


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11877006*
> The "B" runs @ the 3rd speed option on the standard vario model, I read a review of the X20-750 pump and its rally close to the mcp B. So I would spend a bit more and get the vario model imo


B-model actually seems to be same as speed 4 of Vario model and at least according to this test there is hardly any performance difference between settings 4 and 5 : http://www.dazmode.com/_Reviews/2010/FLOWTEST.htm


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;11877372*
> B-model actually seems to be same as speed 4 of Vario model and at least according to this test there is hardly any performance difference between settings 4 and 5 : http://www.dazmode.com/_Reviews/2010/FLOWTEST.htm


Thats what i read the -b runs speed 4 and vario has the extra speed 5 which is really noisy and flow rate aint the problem with the x20/750 its head preasure the mcp655 has 10m of it and if i recall 1300 lph also. My mcp655-b runs 4200-4400 rpms anyone with a normal one on speed 5 compare to that and we could tell if it really goes alot slower.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;11877372*
> B-model actually seems to be same as speed 4 of Vario model and at least according to this test there is hardly any performance difference between settings 4 and 5 : http://www.dazmode.com/_Reviews/2010/FLOWTEST.htm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11877581*
> Thats what i read the -b runs speed 4 and vario has the extra speed 5 which is really noisy and flow rate aint the problem with the x20/750 its head preasure the mcp655 has 10m of it and if i recall 1300 lph also. My mcp655-b runs 4200-4400 rpms anyone with a normal one on speed 5 compare to that and we could tell if it really goes alot slower.


good looking out, yup speed #4, my bad


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Yea i found it on ocn lol it has more head presure then sites are listing it at.
Quote:


> MCP655 variable = 13.5' max head pressure at setting 5
> MCP655 B = 11.1' max head pressure (MCP655 at setting 4)


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/227625-fyi-swiftech-response-mcp655-vs-mcp655.html


----------



## Jonesey I7

I'm gonna get the mcp355 with the xspc top to combine the best of both worlds. 20m head pressure, and almost the same flow with the xspc top.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11877735*
> I'm gonna get the mcp355 with the xspc top to combine the best of both worlds. 20m head pressure, and almost the same flow with the xspc top.


Why not get the bay res it increases its flow and presure i was told.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11877756*
> Why not get the bay res it increases its flow and presure i was told.


I don't see a bay res for the 355, only the 655? Has to be from frozencpu too.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11877788*
> I don't see a bay res for the 355, only the 655? Has to be from frozencpu too.


They have them and id look at jab-tech and http://www.performance-pcs.com their stuff is much cheaper then frozencpu usualy. I will update this when i find it.

http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic-Dual-5.25-Reservoir-for-Laing-DDC-BayRes-One-pr-4549.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_665&products_id=25767


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11877826*
> They have them and id look at jab-tech and http://www.performance-pcs.com their stuff is much cheaper then frozencpu usualy. I will update this when i find it.


I have 10% off and free priority mail shipment with next order at frozen.

The only one I see is a dual 355 res?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11877788*
> I don't see a bay res for the 355, only the 655? Has to be from frozencpu too.


Dual Bay, dual DDC, split compartments:


Dual Bay, dual DDC, single compartment (comes w/ plug for single pump setup):









Dual Bay, single DDC (what I'm hopefully getting soon):


----------



## Bal3Wolf

only one frozen has is the dual one and for your info a ddc is a 355 pump and d5 is a 655 pump.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9542/ex-res-154/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_-_DDC_Dual_Pump_Dual_Split_Reservoirs_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Clear_DDCBAYTWO.html?tl=g30c97s168


----------



## wermad

jab-tech has the dual ddc single compartment one and single ddc one

ppcs and koolertek also have the single ddc one and the dual ddc split compartment one's too.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

He has a coupon at frozen cpu tho and free shipping probly planning on getting his new rad and pump from their to save money. Each side of the dual bay is separate so you could run 1 pump no problem and even add another later if you needed it.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11877939*
> He has a coupon at frozen cpu tho and free shipping probly planning on getting his new rad and pump from their to save money. Each side of the dual bay is separate so you could run 1 pump no problem and even add another later if you needed it.


Yea, but what a waste of space as I'm only gonna use one. One side empty, and only half the res space for the one I use. Don't know how much this would increase flow either, whereas the xspc top for the 355 does MONSTER improvements.


----------



## wermad

I was thinking of getting two ddc, using the xspc dual top as I hear it gives a big boost, a bay reservoir.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11877999*
> Yea, but what a waste of space as I'm only gonna use one. One side empty, and only half the res space for the one I use. Don't know how much this would increase flow either, whereas the xspc top for the 355 does MONSTER improvements.


You do know flow wont help temps a ton if your pump aint having trouble keeping up. Your rad and air temp play a bigger factor and fans on the rad the 355 pump has less flow then the 655 but it has more head presure.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11878018*
> You do know flow wont help temps a ton if your pump aint having trouble keeping up. Your rad and air temp play a bigger factor and fans on the rad the 355 pump has less flow then the 655 but it has more head presure.


Exactly why I was gonna get the top instead of the bay res. It has 20m head pressure, and with the top, it increases the flow a chit ton. I'm gonna have cpu and 2x gpu blocks, with a big azz black ice radiator. I would think I need pressure more than flow, and if pressure is good, with the added flow I would think that would be what I want right? I'll have the coolest radiator possible with 6 high rpm yates p/p with shrouds.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11586196*
> lol when i did mine, iw as like ***?!? where the hell is the backplate! at that point in time, i called fcpu and they told me that the amd fitting doesnt require one.. So i stole my old H50's backplate and used it with the black screws. I think it worked perfectly fine, so I kept it on there. I'll get mbud to add it in


I'm using the asetek backplate, same as H50's, will i have to do any drilling to the backplate?

My kit should be here thursday or friday.


----------



## Kahbrohn

ARRIVED!!!!

My RS360 kit arrived today. Will start planning things out. Will have before/after temp tests.

More to come.


----------



## KGIXXER7

Sweet Kahbrohn


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831;11878067*
> I'm using the asetek backplate, same as H50's, will i have to do any drilling to the backplate?
> 
> My kit should be here thursday or friday.


kit comes with a backplate. It comes with everything needed to cool your cpu.


----------



## ErBall

I think I have a very minor leak. It looks like the top of my waterblock is wet around the inlet barb. I can't feel any moisture, but it most certainly looks the part.

I'm pretty pissed as I have to disassemble it all and redo it. Whats gonna be the easiest way to drain my loop? Here is a pic of how its run.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Soooo I'm so anxious to get this kit that I have my computer completely disassembled and ready to go... think its still 4days out on shipping though LOL. So, should I lap my cpu and re-TIM my GPU while I have it apart? or does this yield little results.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11879545*
> Soooo I'm so anxious to get this kit that I have my computer completely disassembled and ready to go... think its still 4days out on shipping though LOL. So, should I lap my cpu and re-TIM my GPU while I have it apart? or does this yield little results.


if you cpu isnt flat already then it will yeild results. how big is dependent on how well you do it and to what grit you go to. its an art basically.

I have never lapped a cpu but have done 2x heatsinks now and both times it was 4degree or more. (6 on the h50).

I dont know a single person to lap a gpu but I just did a reseat on mine and both the chip and the heatsink was perfectly flat (i checked







).

you could still do a clean and reseat of the gpu. What about a total clean of the case or maybe take the whole thing down and paint or something? theres always something to do with a comp.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11879582*
> if you cpu isnt flat already then it will yeild results. how big is dependent on how well you do it and to what grit you go to. its an art basically.
> 
> I have never lapped a cpu but have done 2x heatsinks now and both times it was 4degree or more. (6 on the h50).
> 
> I dont know a single person to lap a gpu but I just did a reseat on mine and both the chip and the heatsink was perfectly flat (i checked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> you could still do a clean and reseat of the gpu. What about a total clean of the case or maybe take the whole thing down and paint or something? theres always something to do with a comp.


For the GPU i was thinking just reseating, no lapping. Think ill tackle these tonite... get the highest grit automotive sandpaper to finisher off. Thanks for the reply


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11879614*
> For the GPU i was thinking just reseating, no lapping. Think ill tackle these tonite... get the highest grit automotive sandpaper to finisher off. Thanks for the reply


I've always used 400,600,800,1000,1500,2000,2500 30 reps each way, 4 full rotations on each.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Hey, what all cases fit 360mm rads up top?


----------



## taftmcintosh

Been using a siphon to drain my loop


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


I think I have a very minor leak. It looks like the top of my waterblock is wet around the inlet barb. I can't feel any moisture, but it most certainly looks the part.

I'm pretty pissed as I have to disassemble it all and redo it. Whats gonna be the easiest way to drain my loop? Here is a pic of how its run. 










You might not have to redo it just push the tubing on tight and put a few wire ties around it then watch and see if it leaks any With paper towels handy


----------



## taftmcintosh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Hey, what all cases fit 360mm rads up top?


you need an extra inch or more up top to accomadate the barbs but any case with nearly 400 mm of room on the top panel will work


----------



## sgilmore62

Started breaking my rig down for the XSPC Rasa RX240, gonna redo my cable management anyway. Got my NZXT sleeved extensions today. Could fit a 360 up top but my power supply is up there too so the RX240 gonna be a tight squeeze.


----------



## ErBall

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


You might not have to redo it just push the tubing on tight and put a few wire ties around it then watch and see if it leaks any With paper towels handy


That part is tight, it looks like its BARELY seeping up from the connection between the block and the barb. I really do mean barely. The system has been running for well over 30 hours now and its still only leaves the surrounding area with a very small area that looks moist.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

You know mine did this but i thought it might been a little baby oil i used to try to get the clamps on. I wiped it up and havet seen any more tho i would maybe try tighting up the barb a little.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Hey, what all cases fit 360mm rads up top?


Corsair 800/700D
Cooler Master HAF 932/932BE/X

there might be others but I can't think of any more atm


----------



## JMCB

Is there a backplate for sand bridge yet or can you use the 1156 backplate?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

rocketfish lol if you find one and mod it it could fit a 480 up top with the right cuts.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11881072*
> rocketfish lol if you find one and mod it it could fit a 480 up top with the right cuts.


You can mod a 480 to the top of the 800/700D too:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtc89;11865577*


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ya 700d is what i was gonna get when mircocenter had it for 200 shipped but it went off sell befor i could get the cash together.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coolio831*


I'm using the asetek backplate, same as H50's, will i have to do any drilling to the backplate?

My kit should be here thursday or friday.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ckybam3*


kit comes with a backplate. It comes with everything needed to cool your cpu.


The kit does not come with an AMD backplate (Intel, yes). The coolant & biocide must be purchased separately, I would recommend getting a corrosion blocker as well. As far as an AMD backplate goes, thrasherht was good enough to post the mod he made a few pages back (pg 7). I found it after I had made mine, I just didn't sand down the posts on mine. Other than that, it's the same as his.

Link


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


You can mod a 480 to the top of the 800/700D too:


Those push pull on the rad, or just push?


----------



## wermad

its another members rig, it does look like only a pull configuration.


----------



## Jonesey I7

getting my 800d among other things in two weeks and counting.... Wermad, can I fit a black ice up top with push pull?

EDIT: answered myself, enlarge first pic and you can see the top fans too. yay!!

Well, his rad is alot thinner than the one I want too, I guess I may have to put the pull fans outside the case up top huh?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


getting my 800d among other things in two weeks and counting.... Wermad, can I fit a black ice up top with push pull?

EDIT: answered myself, enlarge first pic and you can see the top fans too. yay!!

Well, his rad is alot thinner than the one I want too, I guess I may have to put the pull fans outside the case up top huh?


lol, your right







, it'll be a tight squeeze, but it will make it, I need space, so I mounted my pulls on top


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


getting my 800d among other things in two weeks and counting.... Wermad, can I fit a black ice up top with push pull?

EDIT: answered myself, enlarge first pic and you can see the top fans too. yay!!

Well, his rad is alot thinner than the one I want too, I guess I may have to put the pull fans outside the case up top huh?


when i did research befor i recall finding that it would have 108mm of space with fans so it will depend how thick the rad is.


----------



## Jonesey I7

rad is 53mm, and fans equal 50mm, should fit PERFECTLY. I'm so fuggin excited, AGAIN.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you got ram thats not super tall also so tht might help.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


you got ram thats not super tall also so tht might help.


I'm in there like freakin swimwear bud!!! Oh how I cannot wait. Come on 6th so I can file!!!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

cool lol you gonna drop a few grand on computer stuf flol.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


cool lol you gonna drop a few grand on computer stuf flol.


Yea, I think total only comes up to just under $2000, but I'll get some back as I'm selling my pump/res, rad, case, and monitor I have now. So probably $1600-$1700 total. Gotta love tax season, 4 kids, and the only one who works. I get it ALLLLLLLLLLL back, and then some. I did my taxes today, I think I'm getting somewhere around $9100.


----------



## kingofyo1

holy crap thats a new car! or a little devil with a sandy bridge/bulldozer totally maxed on full watercooling and everything with still 5k to spare


----------



## thrasherht

I <3 my super tall ram.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


I <3 my super tall ram.


















Lol i think my pi ram might be taller


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Lol i think my pi ram might be taller










well if it is double height, then possibly.

Kingston T1 series ram is almost double height ram.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea pi ram is tall lol.


----------



## thrasherht

ummm, I don't know, it looks pretty close.
But i think the t1 series is taller.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11882809*
> holy crap thats a new car! or a little devil with a sandy bridge/bulldozer totally maxed on full watercooling and everything with still 5k to spare


I'm only spending 1700 on my computer stuff. I'm buying the wife some "enhancements" *wink wink*, a new CA king bed, front loader washer and dryer, rebel camera w/ 25-250mm lens, and then all my stuff. Will still have about $1000 to put in the bank.


----------



## kingofyo1

oh chit... she gets all these enhancements to do her work around the house with and all you get is some lousy computer parts? bah humbug!


----------



## Kahbrohn

At least a bottle of Jack Daniels man!


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11886925*
> At least a bottle of Jack Daniels man!


NO, NO, NO..... I'm a TERRIBLE drinker, which is why I had to stop a long time ago. Her enhancements are really a gift to me ya know!! 38d's are ALWAYS welcomed at my house.

ON a side note, can anyone tell me if the mcp355 they offer at frozen is the ddc 3.25 version?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11887108*
> NO, NO, NO..... I'm a TERRIBLE drinker, which is why I had to stop a long time ago. Her enhancements are really a gift to me ya know!! 38d's are ALWAYS welcomed at my house.
> 
> ON a side note, can anyone tell me if the mcp355 they offer at frozen is the ddc 3.25 version?


i lost my left kidney due to drinking,had cancer on it.all i can think what might have caused it was all them years of heavy drinking.


----------



## mbudden

There is the good reason why if I drink, I drink moderately. Not get plastered all on the floor like my friends do. I know it's fun and all. (It's not like I haven't done it) But the effects on your body aren't worth it.


----------



## thrasherht

make sure you find a good doctor for the "enhancements" so they look and feel real. otherwise they won't be any fun at all.


----------



## Jonesey I7

ANyone know the difference between the ddc 3.2 and 3.25? Is there a benefit from one to the other?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11887319*
> ANyone know the difference between the ddc 3.2 and 3.25? Is there a benefit from one to the other?


about .05.








sorry i had to.
I have no idea what the difference is.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11887336*
> about .05.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry i had to.
> I have no idea what the difference is.


----------



## Lutro0

All done.


----------



## mbudden

Oh wow. Lutro0 they look awesome








Will update the OP in a bit


----------



## KGIXXER7

crappy pic but I got my 580 in today, and hooked up


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11888642*
> crappy pic but I got my 580 in today, and hooked up


Broken image

Edit: Wierd.. works now I've quoted it, but not before. Looks cool.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11888569*
> Oh wow. Lutro0 they look awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update the OP in a bit


Thanks man! Glad to help.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Has anyone lapped the block on this with before after temps? I've read some reviews that have noted there can be a little variance on flattness. If not and anyone else is intrested then I will do a write up, if its a dumb idea then let me know as well LOL


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11888763*
> Has anyone lapped the block on this with before after temps? I've read some reviews that have noted there can be a little variance on flattness. If not and anyone else is intrested then I will do a write up, if its a dumb idea then let me know as well LOL


I lapped my block as it was MAJOR not flat, but did it as soon as the kit arrived therefore no before and after. BUT I get monster temps for my massive oc, so I can only assume it helped, but how much I do not know. Lapping=FTW!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11887319*
> ANyone know the difference between the ddc 3.2 and 3.25? Is there a benefit from one to the other?


the DDC3.1 is the firs version (aka 350), DDC3.2 is the revised version, slight more head pressure, more flow, some can over-volt to 18v, and some say a bit noisier (aka mcp 355), DDC 3.5 newest and more pressure and flow (aka mcp 35x, has a revised top for better performance and g1/4 threads, also more expensive. DDC 3.1/3.2 do better w/ an aftermarket top.

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp350.asp

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp355.asp

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp35x.asp


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11888796*
> I lapped my block as it was MAJOR not flat, but did it as soon as the kit arrived therefore no before and after. BUT I get monster temps for my massive oc, so I can only assume it helped, but how much I do not know. Lapping=FTW!!!


I'm thinking about doing a before/after.. Do my first contribution to the forum... Seems intresting to me I guess.. One thing I'm not sure on is will Shin-Etsu be fully cured after a day? I dont wanna have to run the computer for 300hrs to do bench temps.


----------



## mbudden

Perfect. Updated the OP with Lutro0's pictures









Big thanks to him!


----------



## ckybam3

lutro0s what text is that your using for the main page? thats freakin sexy


----------



## KGIXXER7

It is called EpoXY histoRy

http://www.dafont.com/search.php?psize=m&q=epoxy


----------



## JMCB

I posted this earlier in this thread, but no replies. Anyone know if the XSPC block that comes with the kit has an available sandy bridge backplate, or will the socket 1156 backplate fit?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JMCB*


I posted this earlier in this thread, but no replies. Anyone know if the XSPC block that comes with the kit has an available sandy bridge backplate, or will the socket 1156 backplate fit?


XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetal
High Performance and Easy Installation
- Designed for Multi Core CPU's
- High Performance Copper Base 50x50x4mm
With Over 1200 Copper Pins
- Pins Precision Cut to 0.25mm
- CNC Cut Acetal Top
- G1/4" Threads
- Compatible with Most Compression Fittings
- Supports Sockets LGA775, 1156 and 1366

Supplied with mounting hardware, 775, 1156 and 1366 backplates, allen key, and thermal paste.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

it dont sandy bridge aint even out yet so you wont find any blocks supporting it yet probly.


----------



## rancor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JMCB*


I posted this earlier in this thread, but no replies. Anyone know if the XSPC block that comes with the kit has an available sandy bridge backplate, or will the socket 1156 backplate fit?


I heard they did not change the mounting from 1156 to 1155 so it should fit.

Edit: it was in one of the videos from OC3D here.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ckybam3*


lutro0s what text is that your using for the main page? thats freakin sexy


EpoXY histoRy And Viper Nora? Cant remember.

And isnt the font in your avatar called pinion? -edit- Its Avalon Quest! Man, havent seen that one in a while.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7*


It is called EpoXY histoRy

http://www.dafont.com/search.php?psize=m&q=epoxy


<3 Da Font.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rancor;11890584*
> I heard they did not change the mounting from 1156 to 1155 so it should fit.


This.


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


EpoXY histoRy And Viper Nora? Cant remember.

And isnt the font in your avatar called pinion? -edit- Its Avalon Quest! Man, havent seen that one in a while.

<3 Da Font.










da is the best


----------



## ErBall

So I just came home to the sound of my pump grinding. Its making a noise like something is caught in the pump, and its SUPER obnoxious.

Any ideas?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


So I just came home to the sound of my pump grinding. Its making a noise like something is caught in the pump, and its SUPER obnoxious.

Any ideas?


kill coil not caught up is it?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


So I just came home to the sound of my pump grinding. Its making a noise like something is caught in the pump, and its SUPER obnoxious.

Any ideas?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


kill coil not caught up is it?


My kill coil couldn't fit if it wanted to...


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


So I just came home to the sound of my pump grinding. Its making a noise like something is caught in the pump, and its SUPER obnoxious.

Any ideas?


air trapped? mine made an usual noise once, stopped it, drained it, refilled it, and it was gone.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just ordered my mcp355 and XSPC bay res for it, do I still qualify as a member? (Im selling my x20-750). How about making this the "XSPC Rasa kit and XSPC Water Cooling components club"


----------



## ErBall

I let it go for a while and it seems to have quieted down quite a bit, hopefully its all gone. I was so frustrated i violently shook my town and quite a few bubbles appeared from the rad, so that was useful.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;11891998*
> I let it go for a while and it seems to have quieted down quite a bit, hopefully its all gone. I was so frustrated i violently shook my town and quite a few bubbles appeared from the rad, so that was useful.


Air that has gotten trapped. Just let it run, keep an eye on temps and an ear out for any more strange noises, and take a video with you phone if it happens again so we can hear it.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;11891998*
> I let it go for a while and it seems to have quieted down quite a bit, hopefully its all gone. I was so frustrated i violently shook my *town* and quite a few bubbles appeared from the rad, so that was useful.


Dang, bet the residents didn't appreciate having their town shook violently. I know they don't like that in Cali. Sorry, I couldn't resist









My MX-4 just showed up today so I just did a remount, hopefully I'll see some better results.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;11891998*
> I let it go for a while and it seems to have quieted down quite a bit, hopefully its all gone. I was so frustrated i violently shook my town and quite a few bubbles appeared from the rad, so that was useful.


Sounds like air i know my temps were sorta crappy till one huge bubble came out and the pump is silent now cant even tell its on.


----------



## Jonesey I7

um.............................................................................. bump!! Wake up boys


----------



## kingofyo1




----------



## rickyman0319

i am wondering is kit with the x20-750 (pump & resvior combo) powerful enough to add one or 2 gpu wateblock.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Need a water block for my belly button...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319;11899417*
> i am wondering is kit with the x20-750 (pump & resvior combo) powerful enough to add one or 2 gpu wateblock.


Hey Ricky... I know that it is more than good for the CPU and 1 GPU. I believe I recall reading here that it will handle 2 GPU's as well. What you need to consider is the rad size. I believe you will need to consider the RS (preferably the RX) 360 rad if you go 2 GPU's..


----------



## Ballz0r84

Add me,here my 120 kit,

















In my case,


















Very happy with the kit!
CPU only at the moment,will expand when major hardware upgrade is.


----------



## rickyman0319

where do you read the article about the pump or the kit? that it can handle 2 gpu with the cpu block?


----------



## fr0st.

Don't worry ricky, it can handle it.
Wermad ran the pump effectively with 3 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, a motherboard block, RX360 and a 120mm rad too IIRC.

It can handle your load









(Man, I really drop Wermad's name a lot on this thread :/)


----------



## kingofyo1

heh he's getting popular aint he


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11899563*
> Don't worry ricky, it can handle it.
> Wermad ran the pump effectively with 3 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, a motherboard block, RX360 and a 120mm rad too IIRC.
> 
> It can handle your load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Man, I really drop Wermad's name a lot on this thread :/)


There you go Ricky... Frost read the 164 pages of posts faster than I did...


----------



## sgilmore62

FEDEX is supposed to be delivering my RX240 kit today, can't wait to put it together and test it







Ordered a XSPC 5970 block and some black Primochill tubing a few minutes ago. Hopefully the pump/res can handle it and 1 RX240 is enough.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Just in case someone might be interested, I'm now selling my cpu mobo ram res/pump rad and 6 yates with shrouds, and figured I'd let my home town club get first dibs. Links to both.

http://www.overclock.net/main-components/907311-golden-x4-965be-m4a89gtd-pro-usb3.html

http://www.overclock.net/cooling-products/905205-xspc-dual-bay-res-pump-combo.html


----------



## PulkPull

This is still a large WIP. I need to receive and finish adding the fans to make all push/pull on both rads, and I need to sleeve all my wires (I plan to completely sleeve my PSU black). The kit is the rx360, with a few upgrades. Check my build log link in my sig for a ton more pics, temps, a build issues.


IMG_1130 by ColeKristy, on Flickr


IMG_1116 by ColeKristy, on Flickr


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11899563*
> Don't worry ricky, it can handle it.
> Wermad ran the pump effectively with 3 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, a motherboard block, RX360 and a 120mm rad too IIRC.
> 
> It can handle your load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Man, I really drop Wermad's name a lot on this thread :/)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11899784*
> heh he's getting popular aint he


hehe...I think the max this pump can do and survive a while is cpu, gpu (two is ok), and one or two medium rads or a large rad. Its got good flow rate but its low pressure means the more blocks and rads the more restriction and the more it has to work. In terms of life expectancy this can be affected and end the pumps life short. and I only have one rad (rx360) atm. plans are either mod the top for a 480 or add a 240 at the bottom.

I've already ordered a DDC 3.2 (aka mcp355) to handle my rig and future upgrades.


----------



## GAMERIG

this is awesome!, this easily catch their attention! 120 rad kits kick H50/70 kits!


----------



## sgilmore62

Got my RX240 kit installed, it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Temps are fluctuating a bit, is that normal? 4.3Ghz 1.35 volts mid thirties idle hottest core 60 running Wprime stability test. Got a XSPC 5970 block and some black Thermochill tubing coming with a few more sleeved cables.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I know those of you with these kits sorta got a res like mine im having a wierd issue if i put the cap on when the pumps off the water stays full. But if i take it off the water drops half a inch and wont go back up unless i stop the pump and take the cap off and put it back on.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11907200*
> I know those of you with these kits sorta got a res like mine im having a wierd issue if i put the cap on when the pumps off the water stays full. But if i take it off the water drops half a inch and wont go back up unless i stop the pump and take the cap off and put it back on.


I'm thinking it has something to do with pressure, I could be wrong tho


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11907200*
> I know those of you with these kits sorta got a res like mine im having a wierd issue if i put the cap on when the pumps off the water stays full. But if i take it off the water drops half a inch and wont go back up unless i stop the pump and take the cap off and put it back on.


Thats air escaping.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11907222*
> I'm thinking it has something to do with pressure, I could be wrong tho


^^^this, air pressure relieved and escaping.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11907625*
> Thats air escaping.
> 
> ^^^this, air pressure relieved and escaping.


So know the question is -

Bleed with the cap on or off???


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11907625*
> Thats air escaping.
> 
> ^^^this, air pressure relieved and escaping.


Yea but thier should be no air pressure when its off and the res is sitting full. And wierd thing im not sure if this causes it or not but when i run it with cap off i was hitting 53c with cap on befor power its only hitting 50c. My pmp is not as noisty now also if i have the cap on when its off and power it up like it was befor.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11907715*
> Yea but thier should be no air pressure when its off and the res is sitting full. And wierd thing im not sure if this causes it or not but when i run it with cap off i was hitting 53c with cap on befor power its only hitting 50c. My pmp is not as noisty now also if i have the cap on when its off and power it up like it was befor.


your pump is messing w/ you, it don't like you


----------



## Bal3Wolf

that it is lol i didnt have any issues till i got the bright idea to maybe change the loop and that didnt go well i had water all over my board lol cleaned it up and glad it all works lol. Lol im still not sure what way is right with pump on or off to put the fill cap on. If i put it on while the pumps on i wont be able to fill it all the way up or it would overflow when i took it back off.


----------



## boostinsteve

I will be joining the club here shortly as well. Mine should be here tomorrow or Friday. Looking forward to making the jump to WC.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11907811*
> that it is lol i didnt have any issues till i got the bright idea to maybe change the loop and that didnt go well i had water all over my board lol cleaned it up and glad it all works lol. Lol im still not sure what way is right with pump on or off to put the fill cap on. If i put it on while the pumps on i wont be able to fill it all the way up or it would overflow when i took it back off.


I just recalled you have the D5 + xspc bay res


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11907855*
> I just recalled you have the D5 + xspc bay res


yea i didnt have this problem befor lol.


----------



## taftmcintosh

Mother of god ive had a bad night. Got new right angle fittings and some elbows so i could route my tubing a different way. ...........The fittings just leaked like crazy it took forever to set things up the way i had it. Was having trouble getting the fluid out of my tubing. Finally got everything setup. Luckily i had bought some backup tubing just in case. Turns out they were supposed to send o-rings. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7959/ex-tub-387/Primochill_G_14_Threaded_Elbow_Barb_-_12_ID_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c407s1030

Threading: G 1/4"
Barb: 1/2" ID Tubing
Material: Polypropylene
Included: *Rubber O-Ring*

I used the orings from the barbs that come with the kit and they didnt work at all. I am pretty pissed for whatever reason but i guess its my fault for not looking into the o-ring issue more.

On the plus side, while at best buy last night I found a 800 watt corsair power supply marked at 72.99. It was cheaper than the 600 watt models they had on display i was very happy.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11907929*
> Mother of god ive had a bad night. Got new right angle fittings and some elbows so i could route my tubing a different way. ...........The fittings just leaked like crazy it took forever to set things up the way i had it. Was having trouble getting the fluid out of my tubing. Finally got everything setup. Luckily i had bought some backup tubing just in case. Turns out they were supposed to send o-rings. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7959/ex-tub-387/Primochill_G_14_Threaded_Elbow_Barb_-_12_ID_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c407s1030
> 
> Threading: G 1/4"
> Barb: 1/2" ID Tubing
> Material: Polypropylene
> Included: *Rubber O-Ring*
> 
> I used the orings from the barbs that come with the kit and they didnt work at all. I am pretty pissed for whatever reason but i guess its my fault for not looking into the o-ring issue more.
> 
> On the plus side, while at best buy last night I found a 800 watt corsair power supply marked at 72.99. It was cheaper than the 600 watt models they had on display i was very happy.


wow a corsair unit at BB?

Nice find


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11907929*
> Mother of god ive had a bad night. Got new right angle fittings and some elbows so i could route my tubing a different way. ...........The fittings just leaked like crazy it took forever to set things up the way i had it. Was having trouble getting the fluid out of my tubing. Finally got everything setup. Luckily i had bought some backup tubing just in case. Turns out they were supposed to send o-rings. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7959/ex-tub-387/Primochill_G_14_Threaded_Elbow_Barb_-_12_ID_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c407s1030
> 
> Threading: G 1/4"
> Barb: 1/2" ID Tubing
> Material: Polypropylene
> Included: *Rubber O-Ring*
> 
> I used the orings from the barbs that come with the kit and they didnt work at all. I am pretty pissed for whatever reason but i guess its my fault for not looking into the o-ring issue more.
> 
> On the plus side, while at best buy last night I found a 800 watt corsair power supply marked at 72.99. It was cheaper than the 600 watt models they had on display i was very happy.


good god!!! stay away from those, I had them, the threads are TOO long and they also caused a lot of leaks for my first wc setup, get some metal fittings.


----------



## |WD-40|

Add me, I have a Rasa 750














































I'm going to be moving the rad to the inside top of my case here in the next few months when I take it apart for cleaning. I am also going to swap out the original barbs and tubing with new 1/2" ID 3/4" or 5/8" OD tubing and compression fittings.

For anyone looking into theses kits, buy one without hesitation.

It brought my i7 930 @ 4.0GHz load temps running 20 passes of LinX at 25000 problem size down from 97, 96, 92, 89 (C) on a Thermalright TRUE 120 to 86, 84, 79, 78 (C).


----------



## taftmcintosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11908051*
> good god!!! stay away from those, I had them, the threads are TOO long and they also caused a lot of leaks for my first wc setup, get some metal fittings.


I wont make that mistake again the threads were insanely long you are right. Not sure how the radiator would be picking up fluid with them installed anyways. I am still curious about the o rings they would have sent with the kit. But luckily those fittings were only a few bucks. I did waste tons of tubing though







.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11908127*
> I wont make that mistake again the threads were insanely long you are right. Not sure how the radiator would be picking up fluid with them installed anyways. I am still curious about the o rings they would have sent with the kit. But luckily those fittings were only a few bucks. I did waste tons of tubing though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


don't feel too bad, I had a big leak when I used one of those on the outlet of my old pump







.

My best advised, avoid using angled fittings as best as possible. if you must try 45° fittings they are less restrictive than 90° fittings. check out sidewinder, they have a four pack of 45° for $15, try using no angled fittings first, if you must, try one 45°+ a barb, if not, try two 45° for a 90° setup and add a barb.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fero45g14th1.html


----------



## taftmcintosh

Those would have worked well, thanks for the link, ill put some thought into using those in the future.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol i really gota stop messing with stuff once i get it working trying to make it better lol. Now my temps are worse but i got air in my lines now i guess where they were all out befor. Tho i did clean it up some the wires are probly as good as they ever gonna get unless i buy stuff to try to hide them.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11908855*
> lol i really gota stop messing with stuff once i get it working trying to make it better lol. Now my temps are worse but i got air in my lines now i guess where they were all out befor. Tho i did clean it up some the wires are probly as good as they ever gonna get unless i buy stuff to try to hide them.


Can you tell the difference with the MX-4? I used the MX-4 instead of the stuff that came with the kit but don't really have anything to compare it to. I think there is three tubes that came with it lol.

I'm running LinX 25,000 problems at 4.1Ghz and it is maxing at 60C at the moment.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

the stuff kit came with sucked and as5 and icd didnt fare to well either the best stuff so far was the little bit of shin-etsu cheaper paste. I orderd me some shin-etsu x23 tho on skin labs it was shown to be 2nd best for water blocks.


----------



## sgilmore62

I wonder what size the barbs are on the Kingston HyperX H2O?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104214&cm_re=kingston_hyperx_h20-_-20-104-214-_-Product


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

has anyone mounted this in a phantom case with an AMD platform? I cant get my radiator to fit with the 200mm fans up top...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

It looks like they are saying to use 1/4 heres a screen shot from thier pdf on the ram.


----------



## sgilmore62

So it would need an adapter for those 1/4 inch fittings?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Probly and be a waste to cool it back when i had my ocz ram that worked as water or air cooling them with water only got you 25-50mhz extra over air.


----------



## sgilmore62

This guy says he was running it at 2200Mhz and I don't think he was watercooling it.

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/kingston_hyperx_h20/7.htm


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Just get dominators and get the MIPS ramcooler that covers the top


----------



## kingofyo1

well I was going to put my 460 under water, but the block I got is for a reference 460 and my card is a non ref. I'm going to have to figure something out here, and I dont know what to do! If im correct, there's only one full coverage block made for non ref 460s and its made by EK..


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11909437*
> This guy says he was running it at 2200Mhz and I don't think he was watercooling it.
> 
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/kingston_hyperx_h20/7.htm


Yea but usualy i7s have trouble running 2000mhz much less 2200 lol.


----------



## Coolio831

So my kit is coming in tomorrow morning. I picked out the 240kit. I gotta say I'm pretty excited, but do i have to remove the mobo from the case to install those long screws that the water block sits on?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Im not sure about amd but i know intel you gota install the backplate i dont thk it comes with the amd backplate but some people use other heatsinks backplates.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11909961*
> Im not sure about amd but i know intel you gota install the backplate i dont thk it comes with the amd backplate but some people use other heatsinks backplates.


I'm gonna use the backplate off my Asetek.


----------



## Brissmas

If anyone was looking to buy these kits in Australia id reccomend Gammods. They stock the RS120 kit, RS240 kit, RS360 kit (sold out atm), RX240 kit and the RX360 kit.
Ill be buying from them and will post pics up when i get it.
Link: www.gammods.com.au


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brissmas;11910314*
> If anyone was looking to buy these kits in Australia id reccomend Gammods. They stock the RS120 kit, RS240 kit, RS360 kit (sold out atm), RX240 kit and the RX360 kit.
> Ill be buying from them and will post pics up when i get it.
> Link: www.gammods.com.au










i orded the last of the RS360 kits like 2 days ago ( shipped yesterday )

carnt wait D: gotta wait 5 days dammit


----------



## mbudden

This thread goes by too quickly lol. If I missed anyone. Let me know.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


...



Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


...



Quote:



Originally Posted by *|WD-40|*


...


Added.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


This thread goes by too quickly lol. If I missed anyone. Let me know.

Added.


Haha yea i probly got 50 posts in this thread alone maybe more.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11910354*
> Haha yea i probly got 50 posts in this thread alone maybe more.


Me too, if not 100!! B.T.W.....getting back to my i7 roots!!!!!! Found a 3849B018 motherboard ram combo I'm buying today.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


well I was going to put my 460 under water, but the block I got is for a reference 460 and my card is a non ref. I'm going to have to figure something out here, and I dont know what to do! If im correct, there's only one full coverage block made for non ref 460s and its made by EK..


XSPC makes a Rasa universal gpu block, EK also makes one, both are based on their cpu blocks (Rasa cpu & Supreme hf)


----------



## The Sandman

Before I take the plunge into WC'ing I'm liking what I see with this Rasa setup and have PM'd a few 1090T owners researching what all it will take to keep this AMD chip (CPU only) under control when OC'd to 4.1 and above. Needless to say there's still some unanswered questions. Hope I can get some input while I continue to read through this thread. I'm looking at running this in my present case (NZXT M59, sig rig) which has accommodations for a top mounted dual radiator (external according to the web site specs). It also has two inlets into the case up high on the back panel. See pics here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146058

For starters I'd like to go top mount internal (if possible) but don't know if there's any cons to doing so, or if this case is in need of some modding before hand due to the mesh type air passages (actually several pierced round holes for either 2 x 140mm or 2 x 120mm fans). Could these be left intact and incorporated into the build? Is there a difference between the horizontal and vertical mounting and how it affects cooling?.

Also looking for input on which setup to use, the RS or RX. Can I assume the 240 will be sufficient? Also is a flow meter necessary for CPU cooling only? I have 2 AP GT-15's which I'll be donating to the project but once again not sure which configuration works better, push or pull maybe it'll need both? All together at this point I'm just trying put a system together on paper and way out the cost factor by using a Rasa system and this case, or having to replace the case and spend more $$$'s on a Noctua air cooler (which won't fit into this case). It also would appear to continue to OC higher will require WC'ing at some point so why wait is how I'm seeing it lol.

To give you an idea I'm currently setting at 4043 MHz, Vcore 1.4v, and max CPU socket load temp is 57c with ambient of 19c. Mobo and NB temps aren't any problem and I'm not looking to WC graphics. Any and all suggestions are welcome and appreciated.


----------



## wermad

wc a thuban is no sweat, thubans run much cooler than the denebs, and 4.0+ it should be no issue for the rasa kit. If your only thinking about wc the cpu, then go w/ the RS240, if your looking to add your gpu, go w/ the RX240, keep in mind the rx is much ticker than the RS, though since you're going external, I would not see any issues with either one.

tbh, the popularity of these kits should be enough justification to get one if your thinking of going water. its fun & you great temps especially with oc.


----------



## Blameless

Ordered the RX360 the other day, should be here soon.

Plan on using it to cool my 970 at around 4.2GHz and my GTX 480 (with an MCW80).


----------



## wholeeo

Can someone post their 5.25 Bay X20 reservoirs installed on a 700d/800d... I'm a bit concerned about how it would look. Also can it just be pushed a bit more into the case so I can use the bay covers to cover the whole thing up?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo;11917526*
> Can someone post their 5.25 Bay X20 reservoirs installed on a 700d/800d... I'm a bit concerned about how it would look. Also can it just be pushed a bit more into the case so I can use the bay covers to cover the whole thing up?












check out my build log, click the link below









EDIT: i don't have pics w/ the front on, Ill get some in just a moment.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo;11917526*
> Can someone post their 5.25 Bay X20 reservoirs installed on a 700d/800d... I'm a bit concerned about how it would look. Also can it just be pushed a bit more into the case so I can use the bay covers to cover the whole thing up?


Possibly. Someone did that to their case, I can't remember where in this thread.


----------



## ShaCanX

Add me!!!
Got the RS240 kit from Frozencpu its my first wc build definitely a work in progress...


----------



## cogsworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaCanX;11917622*
> Add me!!!
> Got the RS240 kit from Frozencpu its my first wc build definitely a work in progress...


I'm in love with those SATA cables! DO WANT! Where did you snag them from?


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaCanX;11917622*
> Add me!!!
> Got the RS240 kit from Frozencpu its my first wc build definitely a work in progress...


Would be cool if you somehow changed the blue led to a red one.


----------



## ShaCanX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cogsworth;11918330*
> I'm in love with those SATA cables! DO WANT! Where did you snag them from?


The red cables are actually regular stock cable and the blue are actually UV cables i snagged form Newegg. the trick is to pigtail them around a screw driver which reduces the length to a quarter and gives them the rad spring look
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo;11918389*
> Would be cool if you somehow changed the blue led to a red one.


Yeah, am thinking about it but will be upgrading to sandy bridge soon and am planning to fix the lighting and tubing colors after I get my mobo and proc.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11917561*
> 
> check out my build log, click the link below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: i don't have pics w/ the front on, Ill get some in just a moment.


Any luck with the picture?


----------



## jamborhgini313

My RS360 Kit came in today. God it took Fedex 1 week to ship from east to west coast. Well probably put it together tomorrow or something!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo;11919288*
> Any luck with the picture?


sorry, almost forgot, I was about to take out the pump since I sold it. here you go:


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11919414*
> My RS360 Kit came in today. God it took Fedex 1 week to ship from east to west coast. Well probably put it together tomorrow or something!


That is kinda funny. I had to get my RS360 kit pump replaced and XSPC shipped me a new pump, UPS took less then 48 hours to ship it from Hong kong to michigan.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11919460*
> sorry, almost forgot, I was about to take out the pump since I sold it. here you go:


Thanks, I hate it. Can it be pushed in some more so that the bay covers can hide it? Also, would this be good enough for 2 570s and a CPU loop or maybe CPU and chipset loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo;11919623*
> Thanks, I hate it. Can it be pushed in some more so that the bay covers can hide it? Also, would this be good enough for 2 570s and a CPU loop or maybe CPU and chipset loop.


yes, but you'll have to secure somehow or just wedge something to secure it. the face plate adds a tiny bit, are you that concern w/ it not being flush 100%?









yes, this kit will work w/ two gpu, I would recommend an RX360 or RS360 to cool your cpu and sli gpu. good luck


----------



## backfire103

Few more questions for you guys. I want to redo my rad an move it to the inside of my case, where is the best place to buy colored tubing? Also I'm going back to college soon and taking my rig with me, is it best to transport the machine full or should I drain the loop an refill it when I get there. Thanks.


----------



## Liighthead

hey. which screws go where? lol its 2 per fan? my rs360 kit come with 8 screws...

i is confused. was going to mount ontop of my centrion 590. but carnt work out dam screws ( proably easy but bloody hot today xD like 1/2 dead )


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


yes, but you'll have to secure somehow or just wedge something to secure it. the face plate adds a tiny bit, are you that concern w/ it not being flush 100%?









yes, this kit will work w/ two gpu, I would recommend an RX360 or RS360 to cool your cpu and sli gpu. good luck










I just don't like how it doesn't match the front panel of the 700D/800D. I currently have no drives installed just for the sake of keeping the look. I'm getting the RX360 Rad with a Swiftech block and now the X20 res/pump. Hopefully it stomps my H70.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wholeeo*


I just don't like how it doesn't match the front panel of the 700D/800D. I currently have no drives installed just for the sake of keeping the look. I'm getting the RX360 Rad with a Swiftech block and now the X20 res/pump. Hopefully it stomps my H70.


you can always go phantom style, but that requires some modding.

are you getting a swiftech cpu block? the rasa block & ek supreme HF are much better.

edit: how about this res and add a DDC pump (a much better pump than the x20-750). I have one pending delivery w/ an mcp355 pump.


----------



## man00

Had my kit installed for couple of days now, to be 100% honest I don't see that much temp decrease. Maybe 5C from zalman CNPS10X Quiet. I will run it for a while see if it grows on me. I'm not OC that much right anyway running I7-950 @ 3.8ghz temp in the 
mid 60's


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11920077*
> you can always go phantom style, but that requires some modding.
> 
> are you getting a swiftech cpu block? the rasa block & ek supreme HF are much better.
> 
> edit: how about this res and add a DDC pump (a much better pump than the x20-750). I have one pending delivery w/ an mcp355 pump.


The CPU block has me a bit confused, how much better is it than the swiftech? I was told the difference between the top 5 blocks are like half a degree, to go by the looks of it. I personally think the Switftech looks better


----------



## Bal3Wolf

the ek is the best block out right now its about 3c better then the rasa.


----------



## wermad

technically, the kryos HF has the best thermal performance, but overall, I think the supreme hf is the best. plus it includes both amd and intel brackets.

edit: Im an EK fan







, lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *man00*


Had my kit installed for couple of days now, to be 100% honest I don't see that much temp decrease. Maybe 5C from zalman CNPS10X Quiet. I will run it for a while see if it grows on me. I'm not OC that much right anyway running I7-950 @ 3.8ghz temp in the 
mid 60's


You might try a few more mounts i hit like 70c with a 5870 in my loop running 4.2ghz 1.32 vcore And like 77 if i run 4400 with 1.41.


----------



## man00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11920266*
> You might try a few more mounts i hit like 70c with a 5870 in my loop running 4.2ghz 1.32 vcore And like 77 if i run 4400 with 1.41.


For sure I need to remount I had to remove it once already. I'm running 1.9v
I forgot to remove the plastic off the sink first time..heh


----------



## wholeeo

1.9, ***?


----------



## fr0st.

Hello once again









I'm going to pull the trigger as soon as John of Jab-Tech gets a 5970 block back in from someone who's sending it back in supposedly unopened, should be soon as we last talked a while ago. I'll be sure to post pics and perhaps do a mini build-log.

So excited









Quote:



Originally Posted by *man00*


For sure I need to remount I had to remove it once already. I'm running 1.9v
I forgot to remove the plastic off the sink first time..heh


1.9V! Why! Turn it down man! Turn it down!
What CPU do you have and what are you aiming for? Put the voltage on Auto, look it up in CPU-Z then go down from that a couple 0.1's.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11920332*
> Hello once again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to pull the trigger as soon as John of Jab-Tech gets a 5970 block back in from someone who's sending it back in supposedly unopened, should be soon as we last talked a while ago. I'll be sure to post pics and perhaps do a mini build-log.
> 
> So excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.9V! Why! Turn it down man! Turn it down!
> What CPU do you have and what are you aiming for? Put the voltage on Auto, look it up in CPU-Z then go down from that a couple 0.1's.


If your gonna have a i7 and 5970 in a loop id get the rx360 for sure to cope with all that heat.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Installed my Rasa Kit today







No Leaks as of now, and almost all the air bubbles out... One tube isn't letting the bubbles go, but time will help I'm sure, can't wait to see my temps.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Might try tilting the case foward that helped a ton on my d5 with a xspc res and shake it.


----------



## man00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


Hello once again









I'm going to pull the trigger as soon as John of Jab-Tech gets a 5970 block back in from someone who's sending it back in supposedly unopened, should be soon as we last talked a while ago. I'll be sure to post pics and perhaps do a mini build-log.

So excited









1.9V! Why! Turn it down man! Turn it down!
What CPU do you have and what are you aiming for? Put the voltage on Auto, look it up in CPU-Z then go down from that a couple 0.1's.


My bad..1.19* ..showing 1.176 in cpuz


----------



## Jonesey I7

golden 920.... OFFICIALLY BOUGHT and will be in the mail tomorrow. Main rig will be down for approx. 3 weeks waiting for taxes to post, and then for all the new parts to arrive. Will be on the old trusty (yea right, MUCH HATE) cough cough dell until it's back up. Will keep everyone posted, and think I'm gonna do a build log this time around as I'll have a new Canon Rebel Ti2!!


----------



## Liighthead

congrats!









:/ i carnt get the rez/pump combo into my nzxt vulcan ffs... D:


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


golden 920.... OFFICIALLY BOUGHT and will be in the mail tomorrow. Main rig will be down for approx. 3 weeks waiting for taxes to post, and then for all the new parts to arrive. Will be on the old trusty (yea right, MUCH HATE) cough cough dell until it's back up. Will keep everyone posted, and think I'm gonna do a build log this time around as I'll have a new Canon Rebel Ti2!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


golden 920.... OFFICIALLY BOUGHT and will be in the mail tomorrow. Main rig will be down for approx. 3 weeks waiting for taxes to post, and then for all the new parts to arrive. Will be on the old trusty (yea right, MUCH HATE) cough cough dell until it's back up. Will keep everyone posted, and think I'm gonna do a build log this time around as I'll have a new Canon Rebel Ti2!!


4.5ghz with ht off i thought it was with ht you should be able to get ht for just a few notches more tho.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


4.5ghz with ht off i thought it was with ht you should be able to get ht for just a few notches more tho.


I can, but 10c less and better gaming performance in BFBC2, the only game I play is the culprit for no ht. HT only needs 1.35v

Oh chit, I guess I better get the lapping station ready for Monday at work too. *LOVES TO LAP*


----------



## Coolio831

did i get sent the wrong water block? It looks alot like the X shape i see on all intel systems, amd system have a square waterblock. do i need to take my block apart and add the black square plate.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coolio831*


did i get sent the wrong water block? It looks alot like the X shape i see on all intel systems, amd system have a square waterblock. do i need to take my block apart and add the black square plate.


yes, it's the 4 little screws on top of the block and you use the included little allen wrench to remove them. You don't actually take the "waterblock" apart, just separate the block from the plate and replace with the rectangular one.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I can, but 10c less and better gaming performance in BFBC2, the only game I play is the culprit for no ht. HT only needs 1.35v

Oh chit, I guess I better get the lapping station ready for Monday at work too. *LOVES TO LAP*


Ah well i run folding so ht for me is a must lol plus it makes doing tons of stuff at once lag free.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I can, but 10c less and better gaming performance in BFBC2, the only game I play is the culprit for no ht. HT only needs 1.35v

Oh chit, I guess I better get the lapping station ready for Monday at work too. *LOVES TO LAP*


I think im going to run my system for a little bit and them lap it, really interested to see what I can get from lapping!!


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


yes, it's the 4 little screws on top of the block and you use the included little allen wrench to remove them. You don't actually take the "waterblock" apart, just separate the block from the plate and replace with the rectangular one.


thxs!

How long will u be up? I'll be up allnight putting this thing together. I have no clue wat im doing but i'll manage.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coolio831*


thxs!

How long will u be up? I'll be up allnight putting this thing together. I have no clue wat im doing but i'll manage.


LOL, i really might be up all night too as I'm so uber excited about my find and buy.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


LOL, i really might be up all night too as I'm so uber excited about my find and buy.


Gratz, What you come across?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coolio831*


thxs!

How long will u be up? I'll be up allnight putting this thing together. I have no clue wat im doing but i'll manage.


Haha way i was when i put my loop together i started like 6pm and around 8am i was done and couldn't sleep i hd to keep getting up and make sure it waset leaking lol.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


If your gonna have a i7 and 5970 in a loop id get the rx360 for sure to cope with all that heat.


Yeah, I'm getting the RX360. Using my TriCools on about 1000-1500RPM so I can push some air through and still have it be quiet. I might get something else later, but I do love me some red fans.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *man00*


My bad..1.19* ..showing 1.176 in cpuz


Oh, 1.19V? Not bad. I'm running 1.2V for 3.8GHz myself on air. I just picked a nice round number and left it.

Which kit do you have?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i hope you dont have antec tricools those things have no static preasure it seems get some yate loons and put them on a fan controler.


----------



## Liighthead

so pretty much gave up on useing the nzxt vulcan... so now comps on a box till get a new case haha

anyways add me?







testing for leaks atm

lol going from a scyth 3k rpm fan to this... Daemmm quite xD carnt hear it ( well with 1 fan in. guess 3 fans be the same? lol )

now to find a case... proably make something xD haha idk what.. tech bench maby?


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

There is a bunch of bubbles in my Res, that pretty normal? there all tiny, but everywhere...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

its normal shake the case and let it run they will go away tilting it back and forth can help to.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


There is a bunch of bubbles in my Res, that pretty normal? there all tiny, but everywhere...


nar its drops of water ontop of the rez. no bubblez :] shaked the poop out of it a few times..

water level is bout 5mm below the top of the rez atm.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


i hope you dont have antec tricools those things have no static preasure it seems get some yate loons and put them on a fan controler.


Yeah, I know.

I'm getting all my stuff from jab-tech. I was gonna shop at Performance PC's but they don't have any Rasa kits, which is a pretty big let down becuase they owe me a pair of Red Cathodes on my next order.

What is good static pressure, in mm/h20?
I have some R4's (90CFM ones, not 69) and they have a little over 3mm/h20.
Tri-Cools have 2.5mm/h20.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

remmber coupon code facebook at jab-tech and sidewindercomputers have great prices to. Those 2 stores when i got my parts had the cheapest parts and best shipping rates of all stores i found.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

So quick opinion here, better to push air or pull it through the RAD? Right now I can only push... ill have to do some case customization to set up push pull


----------



## Bal3Wolf

depending on fan speed 1000-1500 pull 1500-2000 push.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Im using the fans that were supplied with the rs240 kit


----------



## Bal3Wolf

thier 1700rpm i thk might be better in push experiment and find out.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


remmber coupon code facebook at jab-tech and sidewindercomputers have great prices to. Those 2 stores when i got my parts had the cheapest parts and best shipping rates of all stores i found.


Yeah I'm going to order 3 high speed YL's from jab's. D12SH's. Good, No?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea thats what im running 6 of them becarful the fan blades do break easy but they work well if you dont hit them with stuff lol. Like my big fingers and hands.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Alright when you flush out and clean the parts, do you use warm distilled water? And do I need to clean the block, Res and tubing also?


----------



## fr0st.

I try not to stick parts of my anatomy near blades spinning over 1000RPM.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Alright when you flush out and clean the parts, do you use warm distilled water? And do I need to clean the block, Res and tubing also?


 The reason for flushing the radiator is in case there is any debris, like left over flux from manufacturing or anything. Obviously you can see the tubing is clean, wouldn't hurt to rinse the block but I didn't. I just used hot tap water on my radiator in the kitchen sink. Filled and drained it three times shaking it up in between.


----------



## man00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11921885*
> Yeah, I'm getting the RX360. Using my TriCools on about 1000-1500RPM so I can push some air through and still have it be quiet. I might get something else later, but I do love me some red fans.
> 
> Oh, 1.19V? Not bad. I'm running 1.2V for 3.8GHz myself on air. I just picked a nice round number and left it.
> 
> Which kit do you have?


the $124.95 kit


----------



## Jonesey I7

Saying good bye is so hard....


----------



## fr0st.

Mid 60's isn't bad for a dual rad. Those temps you were getting with air are, or were rather, really good.


----------



## man00

For my use I couldn't see having anything more than a rs240 rad. Even when stressing the CPU the rad is cool in fact even the coolant hoses aren't warm. Think I'll run a test without the fans running
see if there is any difference in temps


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *man00;11924444*
> For my use I couldn't see having anything more than a rs240 rad. Even when stressing the CPU the rad is cool in fact even the coolant hoses aren't warm. Think I'll run a test without the fans running
> see if there is any difference in temps


This makes me wonder...

The Crosshair IV mobo has point to connect temp sensors. Would/Could it be safe to somehow insert a temp sensor into the out coolant hose from the CPU and then have the ability to read this temp?

Just curious.


----------



## man00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11924583*
> This makes me wonder...
> 
> The Crosshair IV mobo has point to connect temp sensors. Would/Could it be safe to somehow insert a temp sensor into the out coolant hose from the CPU and then have the ability to read this temp?
> 
> Just curious.


Maybe in the reservoir


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11923408*
> The reason for flushing the radiator is in case there is any debris, like left over flux from manufacturing or anything. Obviously you can see the tubing is clean, wouldn't hurt to rinse the block but I didn't. I just used hot tap water on my radiator in the kitchen sink. Filled and drained it three times shaking it up in between.


Alright I was thinking of using distilled to flush things out but I guess hot tap water will do.


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11845574*
> Sir, I think you win the laziest water cooler ever award.


meh, the mailman didn't bother knocking/ringing yesterday so I have to go to the store anyway to pick it up







I tried yesterday but the mailman wasn't back yet and I found out distilled water costs like $2 for 4L at Pharmaprix









anyway, is there anything I should remember apart from flushing radiator, bleed, leak test?

and is it okay to attach directly to an amd motherboard without doing that original backplate mod?


----------



## sgilmore62

I didn't use the grills that came with the fans, not because I was too lazy but thought would reduce fan noise, improve air flow and look better.



Mounted my res/pump in the bottom drive bay in case of any accidents it wouldn't leak on my SSD's.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11924262*
> Saying good bye is so hard....


maybe I missed it but why are you saying goodbye/


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11926467*
> maybe I missed it but why are you saying goodbye/


To my just recently bought golden 965be, my ram, and my motherboard.

Bought new stuff in my sig though. So not sooo hard to let go.


----------



## kingofyo1

ah kk


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Yay I'm seeing 13C drop in temps from my hyper-N520







31C Prime load at 3.4 vs 46C hyper, 37C prime load at 3.9 (201x19.5) vs 59C hyper


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *man00;11924678*
> Maybe in the reservoir


Have thought about that but I was more interested in seeing the water temp upon exit from the cpu water block (hottest point IMO).

I'll play with that idea. Haven't started to install my kit yet.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11926257*
> I didn't use the grills that came with the fans, not because I was too lazy but thought would reduce fan noise, improve air flow and look better.
> 
> Mounted my res/pump in the bottom drive bay in case of any accidents it wouldn't leak on my SSD's.


Your pc is freakin awesome, however your photography skills are lacking. No offense (im horrible too).


----------



## Coolio831

I got the rad mounted inside the case with the right screws i think, but its just hanging there by the threads.. I'm afraid to screw it all the way in, one screw had no resistances and wanted to go all the way through. The res of the screws only go half way till i meet resistance, so i stop so i won't puncture anything.

I plumed the system, added fluid and had a small like on the inlet port of the res, its fixed now.. The system has been leak testing for 3 to 5 hours now, am i fine?


----------



## KGIXXER7

you won't think you are fine for the next few days lol...but you should be


----------



## Coolio831

I'll leak test for another hour or so, then put it back together.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11927352*
> Your pc is freakin awesome, however your photography skills are lacking. No offense (im horrible too).


Yeah lol, I'm only as good as my cameras auto focus. I set it on auto then point and shoot


----------



## TARRCO

Ordering this lot on my next pay


















You proud?
















This will be going into my 600T and replacing my H50..










360 rad uptop (modded) and 240 rad at the front.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11926531*
> To my just recently bought golden 965be, my ram, and my motherboard.
> 
> Bought new stuff in my sig though. So not sooo hard to let go.


I felt the same way when I sold my 955BE, Asus Crosshair IV Formula + EK block, but once I got my intel setup, I was no longer sad


----------



## Coolio831

I need help, beer is useless.. Uh i canht remember if i had the ac97 cable plugged in or not.. by the looks of it, i don't need it? I'm stucked here and can't move on.


----------



## KGIXXER7

I just used the HD audio...ac97 is for somethign older correct?


----------



## wermad

that's for the front i/o panel (mic & headphones). plug some headphones, if you get sound, your good, if you get no sound, check the plug.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11928827*
> I just used the HD audio...ac97 is for somethign older correct?


yeah its the old stuff, i think.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11928827*
> I just used the HD audio...ac97 is for somethign older correct?


My thoughts exactly.


----------



## KGIXXER7

from wiki...
In 2004 AC'97 was superseded by Intel High Definition Audio (HD Audio)

and guess what year it was developed?


----------



## mbudden

Alright. So. I decided to make my rad look better while piggy backing on my case. Gave me an excuse to flush my loop. It seems like the tubing turned brown, not anything in my loop. So if anyone's tubing turns brown... Just know it's the tubing and some algea etc in your loop. I'll take a pic later. I also cut some excess hose off









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11926257*
> I didn't use the grills that came with the fans, not because I was too lazy but thought would reduce fan noise, improve air flow and look better.


Added








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11928850*
> that's for the front i/o panel (mic & headphones). plug some headphones, if you get sound, your good, if you get no sound, check the plug.


Strange... Mine doesn't work. I just hid the Headphone/Mic cord in my case because I plugged it in.... Didn't work.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I also took out all my stuff today, as I sold and shipped most of it away. But Looking at the tubing now, it LOOKS as if there is gunk, BUT there really isn't. It's just tiny particles of water and looks hazy. I bet that's what I thought the "gunk" was when I took out the mayhem's dye too.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831;11927758*
> I got the rad mounted inside the case with the right screws i think, but its just hanging there by the threads.. I'm afraid to screw it all the way in, one screw had no resistances and wanted to go all the way through. The res of the screws only go half way till i meet resistance, so i stop so i won't puncture anything.
> 
> I plumed the system, added fluid and had a small like on the inlet port of the res, its fixed now.. The system has been leak testing for 3 to 5 hours now, am i fine?


anyone??

what screws i use to mount the fans to the rad? From the looks where i mount the fans to the rad, theres fins rignt behind it, so do i not go past those fins?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831;11929344*
> anyone??
> 
> what screws i use to mount the fans to the rad? From the looks where i mount the fans to the rad, theres fins rignt behind it, so do i not go past those fins?


I can't remember which one's I used l0l. I put shrouds on mine almost instantly and had to cut new screws. Sorry bro.


----------



## mbudden

Long screws. The only ones that will go in through the thickness of the fan then into the rad.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11927352*
> Your pc is freakin awesome, however your photography skills are lacking. No offense (im horrible too).


OK, what do you think of this one?


----------



## ShaCanX

While leak testing my kit I noticed a small leak at the res at the point where the power cable entered the res on route to the pump...










fortunately I had some pvc cement lying around applied a thin coating and it seems to be holding.









still a bit worried though. Anyone else had this issue?

Edit: @mbudden Come on bud add me already!


----------



## Sainesk

yay, I got my dazmode order with cheapest shipping option before my ncix one even shipped even though I ordered them at the same time... + daz even threw in a free health potion drink









can someone answer these ?s for me? thanks
Quote:


> is there anything I should remember apart from flushing radiator, bleed, leak test?
> 
> and is it okay to attach directly to an amd motherboard without doing that original backplate mod?
> 
> is it okay for the pump to be on about the same level as the cpu block or should it be lower?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Pump usualy should be highest thing in the system but it should be ok sence it built in a res. And yea flush the rad then leak test and get the air out without your motherboard or stuff pluged in jumpstart the psu by putting a paper clip in the green and black wire.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

I would use a backplate...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaCanX;11929865*
> While leak testing my kit I noticed a small leak at the res at the point where the power cable entered the res on route to the pump...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fortunately I had some pvc cement lying around applied a thin coating and it seems to be holding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still a bit worried though. Anyone else had this issue?
> 
> Edit: @mbudden Come on bud add me already!


email XSPC cs, I've heard of some ppl actually having leaks there. good luck


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Lol this thread is jumping tonight i bet 50 post in the last hr.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11929370*
> I can't remember which one's I used l0l. I put shrouds on mine almost instantly and had to cut new screws. Sorry bro.


thxs, i'll be installing the fans, then mount gpu's


----------



## ShaCanX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


I would use a backplate...


Probably would be best to use a backplate however I am currently using mine without the backplate and its working fine, will be changing the board within a month so didnt see the need to install one.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


email XSPC cs, I've heard of some ppl actually having leaks there. good luck











So far the fix I did seems to be holding so am just watching it atm. hopefully I wont have to send it back.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaCanX;11930145*
> Probably would be best to use a backplate however I am currently using mine without the backplate and its working fine, will be changing the board within a month so didnt see the need to install one.
> 
> So far the fix I did seems to be holding so am just watching it atm. hopefully I wont have to send it back.


Backplate mod is in the OP.
I made it.


----------



## ShaCanX

^^ Yeah its a great mod I am lazy to do it since I will only be using this board for a few more weeks.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*


^^ Yeah its a great mod I am lazy to do it since I will only be using this board for a few more weeks.










Well you should really do it with your new board, or are you getting intel?

Because when your crank down those bolts on the block it bows the board quite a bit, which is why i didn't want to use the H50 backplate, it doesn't really provide support.


----------



## ShaCanX

Yes am hoping to get an intel 2500k thankfully I heard that the 1156 backplate included with the rasa block will work on those board.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*


Edit: @mbudden Come on bud add me already!


Added. I'm sorry.
& If anyone else needs to be added, or have their pics added. Let me know


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11930497*
> Added. I'm sorry.
> & If anyone else needs to be added, or have their pics added. Let me know


Can you add me? I'm using RASA rad and RASA res.


----------



## ErBall

It appears that I am the unlucky one that has gone and received a defective pump. I have tried everything under the sun to get this thing to quiet down, yet I still get a good amount of grinding noise when the pump is on. It sounds like a HD that is going bad.

I will be sending the pump/res back to jab-tech and hopefully they can send me a new one asap.

My temps have been AWESOME, especially on my videocard (@800 core 43c loads). With my i7 @ 4.2ghz with 1.35v and a fully loaded fermi videocard my system never sees more than 68c on the hottest core. This has all been accomplished with low cfm fans @ 5v. Because of watercooling alone, I may just skip sandy bridge.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

sounds like air in your loop i got a tip from a member here to put a dab of dish soap in the loop to get bubbles out and it did help me.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*


Can you add me? I'm using RASA rad and RASA res.










Specify so I can add you. Not sure what rad or what res.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


It appears that I am the unlucky one that has gone and received a defective pump. I have tried everything under the sun to get this thing to quiet down, yet I still get a good amount of grinding noise when the pump is on. It sounds like a HD that is going bad.

I will be sending the pump/res back to jab-tech and hopefully they can send me a new one asap.

My temps have been AWESOME, especially on my videocard (@800 core 43c loads). With my i7 @ 4.2ghz with 1.35v and a fully loaded fermi videocard my system never sees more than 68c on the hottest core.


Interesting. As I mentioned earlier. I redid the piggy back of my rad and changed the fluid. I got the same kind of noise, sounded like a dying IDE drive. But after a while. It just stopped. Now it's back to being silent. I do assume it was the massive amount of air bubbles. But then again, it shouldn't take your rig forever for bubbles to dissipate.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;11930573*
> It appears that I am the unlucky one that has gone and received a defective pump. I have tried everything under the sun to get this thing to quiet down, yet I still get a good amount of grinding noise when the pump is on. It sounds like a HD that is going bad.
> 
> I will be sending the pump/res back to jab-tech and hopefully they can send me a new one asap.
> 
> My temps have been AWESOME, especially on my videocard (@800 core 43c loads). With my i7 @ 4.2ghz with 1.35v and a fully loaded fermi videocard my system never sees more than 68c on the hottest core. This has all been accomplished with low cfm fans @ 5v.


DONT DO IT.
don't send it back, just contact XSPC they will send you a new pump for free.

I had a broken pump also and they XSPC shipped me a pump for free, didn't even have to send back the old one. so save your money and don't go through jabtech.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11930583*
> sounds like air in your loop i got a tip from a member here to put a dab of dish soap in the loop to get bubbles out and it did help me.


that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Put too much and you have more bubbles then before.


----------



## ShaCanX

Hey, I had the same issue when I installed mine on Monday but it has quieted down since I first installed it. I attributed the noise to bubbles in in the loop/pump. I can still hear the grinding noise if I put my ear very close to it but generally my case fans are louder.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Put too much and you have more bubbles then before.


yea very little when i did i saw bubbles coming to top of res and poping then i got smart idea to put more lol. I see bubbles if i shake up my case but then they go away almost soon as they show up and already alot less of them sence last night and im opening my res up every few days to let air out.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11930685*
> yea very little when i did i saw bubbles coming to top of res and poping then i got smart idea to put more lol. I see bubbles if i shake up my case but then they go away almost soon as they show up and already alot less of them sence last night and im opening my res up every few days to let air out.


You know opening your res is completely pointless, you aren't letting air out, because any air in the loop will be replaced by water in the res, and the volumes are equal, so opening it does absolutely nothing.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11930709*
> You know opening your res is completely pointless, you aren't letting air out, because any air in the loop will be replaced by water in the res, and the volumes are equal, so opening it does absolutely nothing.


Lol tell tht to my loop cause i have had to do that cause im getting wierd presure if i put my fill cap on with it off water stays at the top of the res and if i put it on with pump on it is about half a inch lower. From what iv been told when you open the fill cap it lets the air out and it will hold more water thats the entire point of getting rid of air bubbles.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Lol tell tht to my loop cause i have had to do that cause im getting wierd presure if i put my fill cap on with it off water stays at the top of the res and if i put it on with pump on it is about half a inch lower. From what iv been told when you open the fill cap it lets the air out and it will hold more water thats the entire point of getting rid of air bubbles.


Hot air expands.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol yes but what about when it waset cooling anything ?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11930813*
> lol yes but what about when it waset cooling anything ?


the pump makes heat, I put a pump one time with a tube connecting the inlet and outlet, and without about 2 hours the whole res felt hot.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Yea but i dont thk your understanding i put the cap on with the pump off the water level stays at the top if i undo the cap it drops.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


the pump makes heat, I put a pump one time with a tube connecting the inlet and outlet, and without about 2 hours the whole res felt hot.


mines been on for 14 ish hours leak testing. gonna put on rig soon...

but for atleast 1/2 of that i didnt have any fans on. and it was no where neer hot lol


----------



## mbudden

.... My res isn't hot at all?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea my res is cold if i dont have a load on gpu and cpu when i do its luke warm.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I'm still gonna be in the club right, kinda grandfathered in? I'll still have the xspc block and res, but the pump and rad are upgraded. That still ok mbudden?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I'm still gonna be in the club right, kinda grandfathered in? I'll still have the xspc block and res, but the pump and rad are upgraded. That still ok mbudden?


LOl im in the club and i just have a rasa block and rasa rad.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


yea my res is cold if i dont have a load on gpu and cpu when i do its luke warm.


Interesting. I'm going to run my IBT for a while and see if my res gets warm. I know when I'm running on load, I put my hand on the air coming off the rad and it's warmer.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I'm still gonna be in the club right, kinda grandfathered in? I'll still have the xspc block and res, but the pump and rad are upgraded. That still ok mbudden?










Psh. I don't mind one bit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


LOl im in the club and i just have a rasa block and rasa rad.


Same with you. Don't mind at all. I don't think anyone else minds that you're here. You guys are a big help


----------



## rancor

Another new member with an RX360 kit to add!!


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Just ordered some new fans (Aerocool Sharks) with a bit more rpm and static pressure







. It would seem that I can't get the full 1700 +/- 10% rpm out of these stock fans, for whatever reason they peak out around 1400rpm even on a fan controller. Plus, I've got a 140mm case fan that is weak even on a fan controller as well.









I gotta say, even though this is my first attempt at WC and I'm used to a lower average idle temp (ambient +10C vs +15C), load temps with a 10% OC are nice at 51C (or ambient +29C) compared to what I was getting before (~ ambient +35C).


----------



## mbudden

Added


----------



## kingofyo1

Jonesey, the club is for people who own kits, parts or whatever lol


----------



## boostinsteve

Got mine on. I couldn't get much out of 940 though. I think it is starting to go downhill due to all of the abuse it has seen. Got it back to where I had it initially air cooled though. 3.5 Ghz at 1.45V. The thing is giving up the ghost quickly. I am about due for a hardware update though.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11930857*
> mines been on for 14 ish hours leak testing. gonna put on rig soon...
> 
> but for atleast 1/2 of that i didnt have any fans on. and it was no where neer hot lol


Lord, I must be an idiot then........... I "leak tested" mine for all of 5 minutes, had one small leak at the inlet of the res/pump, bought some metal screw tight clamps, replaced them all, leak tested 5 mins again. Done. HOoked up equipment and started oc'ing like a mad man.


----------



## mbudden

I didn't leak test. Threw mine together and prayed it didn't leak


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I didn't leak test. Threw mine together and prayed it didn't leak










I don't think we're dumb or crazy....... I think we have cahones.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I didn't leak test. Threw mine together and prayed it didn't leak











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I don't think we're dumb or crazy....... I think we have cahones.











Im still paranoid and leak test for 10 mins, if all is good, I power on the whole rig.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Just had a light go off in my head, what do you guys think.

I had AWESOME temps with this block, and I had my barbs horizontal. I have noticed that the people that are only getting "meh" temps all have theirs vertical. Do you think it could make a difference?!?!


----------



## mbudden

I have to admit. I did run some water through the res to look for leaking like the others did. Only because my HDD was under the res. Didn't want all my ish lost. lol.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Just had a light go off in my head, what do you guys think.

I had AWESOME temps with this block, and I had my barbs horizontal. I have noticed that the people that are only getting "meh" temps all have theirs vertical. Do you think it could make a difference?!?!


Hmm. I don't know... That's sort of interesting... It seems that only the AMD guys have their WB's vertical. Not the Intel guys.


----------



## rancor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11931091*
> Added


Thanks mbudden!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11931166*
> Just had a light go off in my head, what do you guys think.
> 
> I had AWESOME temps with this block, and I had my barbs horizontal. I have noticed that the people that are only getting "meh" temps all have theirs vertical. Do you think it could make a difference?!?!


I am getting ~71C load temps with Linx at 4GHz 1.37v. Does that sound good or bad?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11931178*
> Hmm. I don't know... That's sort of interesting... It seems that only the AMD guys have their WB's vertical. Not the Intel guys.


that's my point.... granted the amd's put off much less heat.... but not taking the final number as the performance point, but rather how much cooler it is vs. air. And not many intel member are as excited about temps as the amd guys are. Possible for someone to do a comparison just to blow the light out, as if there is even a 1c difference for the better.....







I just wonder if the water being helped through the block, kind of "falling" through instead of being completely "forced" through COULD make a difference.


----------



## ShaCanX

^^ Guilty as charged looks better vertical for amd.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rancor*


I am getting ~71C load temps with Linx at 4GHz 1.37v. Does that sound good or bad?


That's a little high for that kind of volts. Did you get a good seat on the motherboard? What is your ambient temps? You should be down near the 60C's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


that's my point.... granted the amd's put off much less heat.... but not taking the final number as the performance point, but rather how much cooler it is vs. air. And not many intel member are as excited about temps as the amd guys are. Possible for someone to do a comparison just to blow the light out, as if there is even a 1c difference for the better.....







I just wonder if the water being helped through the block, kind of "falling" through instead of being completely "forced" through COULD make a difference.


That's interesting. Not too sure about that. I'd love to try it. But I got a perfect seat on the chip the first time







don't want to have to mess it up to try again.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


That's a little high for that kind of volts. Did you get a good seat on the motherboard? What is your ambient temps? You should be down near the 60C's.

That's interesting. Not too sure about that. I'd love to try it. But I got a perfect seat on the chip the first time







don't want to have to mess it up to try again.


Well, If no one else gets it done in the next two weeks.... I'll be the tester for you guys with my new setup. But I won't have it all completed until close to the 30th. I really think it's something to think about though.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Well, If no one else gets it done in the next two weeks.... I'll be the tester for you guys with my new setup. But I won't have it all completed until close to the 30th. I really think it's something to think about though.


I wouldn't mind doing it. But I don't have no TIM. I'd have to purchase some more lol.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Can someone tell this smart idiot something very simple that I simply cannot remember how to do. How do I take a link, still make it go where it's suppose to go, but rename it to what I want it to say?


----------



## ErBall

Ok, after having the grinding pump noise for quite some time I finally decided to go violent on my rig and picked it up and shook it voilently for about 10 mins, and powered her back on.

The long and short of it is that my pump noise has MOSTLY gone away. Still there, but I have to really listen to hear it.

I'm still going to contact XSPC and see if I can't get a new pump. I want to switch tubing to all black anyways, so it would be a good chance to do that.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Can someone tell this smart idiot something very simple that I simply cannot remember how to do. How do I take a link, still make it go where it's suppose to go, but rename it to what I want it to say?


who are you calling an idiot?
and you might want to retype that post, it makes no sense at all.


----------



## mbudden

(URL="www.google.com")*www.google.com*(/URL)

[ replaces )

what i bolded. is the part you change the name.


----------



## rancor

My ambients should be around 68F and I thought I got a good seat but i could try to reseat it this time horizontal.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


Ok, after having the grinding pump noise for quite some time I finally decided to go violent on my rig and picked it up and shook it voilently for about 10 mins, and powered her back on.

The long and short of it is that my pump noise has MOSTLY gone away. Still there, but I have to really listen to hear it.


your pump will continue to make a noise, but it will sound like a fish tank pump. that's about it.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rancor*


My ambients should be around 68F and I thought I got a good seat but i could try to reseat it this time horizontal.


It seems that IBT and LINX run the processor harder than you'd see in Prime95.

Try Prime95 and see what kind of temps you get.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


who are you calling an idiot?
and you might want to retype that post, it makes no sense at all.


Um... I'm calling myself the smart idiot for one. two, you must be reading it wrong as it makes perfect sense for what I'm trying to do. Easy killa


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Um... I'm calling myself the smart idiot for one. two, you must be reading it wrong as it makes perfect sense for what I'm trying to do. Easy killa










I was just really confused about the whole thing.


----------



## rancor

With prime 95 small FFTs 2 cores at 65C and and the other 2 cores at 63C. Folding bigadv i get around 60C average. I also have my QPI/DRAM at 1.325V if that affects the temps much.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rancor*


With prime 95 small FFTs 2 cores at 65C and 2 cores at 63C, Folding bigadv i get around 60C. I also have my QPI/DRAM at 1.325V if that affects the temps much.


Looks perfect to me. I have my voltage at 1.5V's on my E5300. Folding -SMP, I get 50C. With IBT/Linx I get ~60C since IBT runs hotter. So you should be just about right.


----------



## Liighthead

my rasa 750 ( 360 kit) setup :]


----------



## rancor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Looks perfect to me. I have my voltage at 1.5V's on my E5300. Folding -SMP, I get 50C. With IBT/Linx I get ~60C since IBT runs hotter. So you should be just about right.


Ok thanks, to me it looked good coming from my Mega its about a 10-15C drop with that voltage glad it looks good to someone else too.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


my rasa 750 ( 360 kit) setup :]


Looks good & added you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rancor*


Ok thanks, to me it looked good coming from my Mega its about a 10-15C drop with that voltage glad it looks good to someone else too.


Yeah. My temps were lower when I was at 4Ghz. But that was 1.45V. Higher voltage = higher temps.


----------



## Coolio831

Aside from the leak on the res..

*WOW!*

Lowered my times by about 10C or so, I'll have to search in my archives and see if i can pull up numbers with the Asetek LCLC 120mm. The Asetek did pretty well when i had my 550BE unlocked-x4. This XSPC kit is just amazing!

I'll post a pic of it running P95, at stock clocks right now.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## mbudden

It must be freezing in your room.... Or your slush boxing your rad...


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


It must be freezing in your room.... Or your slush boxing your rad...


It's cold outside , not in my room. My windows are shut.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coolio831*


It's cold outside , not in my room. My windows are shut.


haha nice temps. but yeh whats the temps like outside? xD


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


haha nice temps. but yeh whats the temps like outside? xD


If you look to the top right of the pic, thats the temp outside in C.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coolio831*


It's cold outside , not in my room. My windows are shut.


So you're saying it's not below 14C in your room? Might want to try another temp application. You can't go below ambient room temperature in water cooling. It's impossible.

Try CoreTemp or Real Temp. There is no way you're getting 14C.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


So you're saying it's not below 14C in your room? Might want to try another temp application. You can't go below ambient room temperature in water cooling. It's impossible.

Try CoreTemp or Real Temp. There is no way you're getting 14C.


I forgot add 12C to that....


----------



## sgilmore62

Heres my temps running prime95 with real temp



Ran LinX for awhile and stopped it but this is about what I got earlier for 20 passes.


----------



## Baldy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


So you're saying it's not below 14C in your room? Might want to try another temp application. You can't go below ambient room temperature in water cooling. It's impossible.

Try CoreTemp or Real Temp. There is no way you're getting 14C.



The core temp sensors on the X6 chips are inaccurate. Look at the CPU socket temp for a more accurate reading.


----------



## jamborhgini313

I'm such a idiot. I just installed my kit and I messed the flow of the liquid. It went from Res to Rad tocblock and to Res lol **** should I worry too much? And there seems to be lots of bubbles and the pump makes noises


----------



## mbudden

You should be fine. I know someone on here had that set up.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


I'm such a idiot. I just installed my kit and I messed the flow of the liquid. It went from Res to Rad tocblock and to Res lol **** should I worry too much? And there seems to be lots of bubbles and the pump makes noises


That's how it SHOULD be run if I'm reading right.

pump/res> radiator > cpu > pump/res right?


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


I'm such a idiot. I just installed my kit and I messed the flow of the liquid. It went from Res to Rad tocblock and to Res lol **** should I worry too much? And there seems to be lots of bubbles and the pump makes noises


 I set my Rasa RX240 up out from res/pump to rad to CPU block back to res/pump. Isn't that the usual way? I was pleasantly surprised at how quiet the pump was when I first got it, could barely here it running except when an air bubble passed through it.

I think it's a bad sign if you get a noisy pump that it isn't going to last long. The fans on the rad are kinda loud though but they are running at 1600 rpms.


----------



## Jonesey I7

yes that's the correct order.... but in reality order doesn't truly matter a bit.


----------



## wermad

no more X20-750 pump, just pulled her out and prepping her for sale. can't wait for my mcp355 to come in









I will miss the contemporary looks of it. I could have gone with the mcp655 plus the xspc bay res for it to keep the looks, but I went w/ the higher pressure DDC 3.2. Function over form wins this round


----------



## LoneWolf3574

I know I'm jumping back a few pages here, but the reason I did a vertical vs. a horizontal wasn't for aesthetics. I don't know how correct my thinking is here, but even though a pump is pushing the water through the block, hot water rises and cold water falls. So I figured, even though it's a short distance, the placement of the block in a vertical orientation would be helpful in the long run. Again, I don't know how correct this line of thought is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11931385*
> I wouldn't mind doing it. But I don't have no TIM. I'd have to purchase some more lol.


SVC has MX-4 for $11.99 with free shipping atm. Wish I had seen that before I got mine through NewEgg, I could have saved about $5.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11933154*
> no more X20-750 pump, just pulled her out and prepping her for sale. can't wait for my mcp355 to come in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will miss the contemporary looks of it. I could have gone with the mcp655 plus the xspc bay res for it to keep the looks, but I went w/ the higher pressure DDC 3.2. Function over form wins this round


why didnt you get the xspc bay for the 355 ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11933796*
> why didnt you get the xspc bay for the 355 ?


yes I did











+ mcp355


----------



## jamborhgini313

Ok new update. So apparently that order started giving me BSOD's because my temps were reading 85c at stock 2.66ghz. I tried my 4ghz OC and it instanly shuts down. So I changed the flow to Res/Pump>CPU In>In Rad>In Res/Pump. Its slightly better but I still get high ass temps? I mean even at stock 2.66ghz i'm idling at 50c which is ridiculous. Now if I prime95 it the temps go from 50c to 95c in 5 seconds. Idk what I did. Pretty frustrating tonight lol I spent almost 5 hours installing this **** and the results are poop


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11933858*
> Ok new update. So apparently that order started giving me BSOD's because my temps were reading 85c at stock 2.66ghz. I tried my 4ghz OC and it instanly shuts down. So I changed the flow to Res/Pump>CPU In>In Rad>In Res/Pump. Its slightly better but I still get high ass temps? I mean even at stock 2.66ghz i'm idling at 50c which is ridiculous. Now if I prime95 it the temps go from 50c to 95c in 5 seconds. Idk what I did. Pretty frustrating tonight lol I spent almost 5 hours installing this **** and the results are poop


are you using the stock tim? I would go aftermarket tim for an i7, reseat the block too.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you got the tubing going to the inlet on the cpu block right. Heres how i ran my loop below but loop order should not mater make sure your pump is working and your block is on good. And your only using distilled water and a silver/kill coil.

pump/res out to rad
rad to cpu
cpu to gpu
gpu to tp pump in


----------



## jamborhgini313

I had it in this order the 1st time I did it.

Res/Pump> Radiator>CPU OUT then CPU IN> Res/Pump
That gave me the constant BSODs because my CPU thermal thingy kicked in and protected itself

Now I reordered to this
Res/Pump> CPU IN then CPU Out> Rad>Res/Pump
Slightly better but still crazy temps. 50c idle at stock 2.66ghz i7. Will BSOD right away when I OC because the temps high.

And No, i didn't use stock TIM that came with it. I used some Shin-Etsu


----------



## Bal3Wolf

well first time you had it really screwed up and your using the out on the pump to cpu in right.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11933915*
> I had it in this order the 1st time I did it.
> 
> Res/Pump> Radiator>CPU OUT then CPU IN> Res/Pump
> That gave me the constant BSODs because my CPU thermal thingy kicked in and protected itself
> 
> Now I reordered to this
> Res/Pump> CPU IN then CPU Out> Rad>Res/Pump
> Slightly better but still crazy temps. 50c idle at stock 2.66ghz i7. Will BSOD right away when I OC because the temps high.
> 
> And No, i didn't use stock TIM that came with it. I used some Shin-Etsu


are you running stock voltage? how much tim did you use?


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11933858*
> Ok new update. So apparently that order started giving me BSOD's because my temps were reading 85c at stock 2.66ghz. I tried my 4ghz OC and it instanly shuts down. So I changed the flow to Res/Pump>CPU In>In Rad>In Res/Pump. Its slightly better but I still get high ass temps? I mean even at stock 2.66ghz i'm idling at 50c which is ridiculous. Now if I prime95 it the temps go from 50c to 95c in 5 seconds. Idk what I did. Pretty frustrating tonight lol I spent almost 5 hours installing this **** and the results are poop


Try reseating the cpu block?

its not the kit its the way its been mounted. their way to high temps lol


----------



## jamborhgini313

Yes, Pump Out to CPU In
As for the TIM, I'm gonna try and reapply and reseat block but gonna do that tomorrow. Been screwing around with this thing since 6PM and now its midnight


----------



## Bal3Wolf

what kit do you have again ? im thinking you got bad flow even with a crappy mount the temps should be lower.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11933981*
> what kit do you have again ? im thinking you got bad flow even with a crappy mount the temps should be lower.


thats true...

maby something stuck in rad? lol or somewhere pump not working properly ?


----------



## kingofyo1

flush eerything again, reseat block again, make sure the pump is actually working also.. big one there


----------



## EzKiLl

Hi, Just got my XSPC Rasa RS240 all set up. Where do I sign? ; )


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11933979*
> Yes, Pump Out to CPU In
> As for the TIM, I'm gonna try and reapply and reseat block but gonna do that tomorrow. Been screwing around with this thing since 6PM and now its midnight


First step in situations like this is to always "assume" you did something wrong and re do it all over again. Take the "human error" out of the equation. Good call on re-seating and such.

Also... What TIM are you using? If you used the stock, try to get a better quality TIM just for giggles and assured improved heat transfer. The stock TIM (if applied properly) would bring your temps down anyway but while your at it, if re-seating works, you could help improve the temps even more. Few $$$ for a degree or two less temp on your CPU is worth it in my opinion.

Tap the rad while running to make sure all of the bubbles are out. After reading several posts and seeing the pictures, I decided to externally mount on the rear. I want all that air to rise within the rad over to the outlet port. I may be overreacting by saying that top mount will just make it harder to get the bubbles out but when I saw a pix with the rad facing down I said "Hmmm... air rises within a liquid. if the ports are facing down, could I be trapping the air inside the rad?" BUT AGAIN, THAT'S JUST ME THINKING.

Check all your tubing. Any kink's or bends? You may feel that a certain bend is not going to affect anything but in the small world of that pump, it could mean a lot.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Rise and shine lol. Ok Gonna try reapply some Tim. I use shin etsu btw..gonna see how it goes


----------



## Jonesey I7

Has anyone used the indigo extreme? How complicated is it to use, does it indeed cool the absolute best, how long to "burn in" and would you recommend it over mx-4? Thinking about getting some with the order this week, but I'm not sure about it.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;11933763*
> SVC has MX-4 for $11.99 with free shipping atm. Wish I had seen that before I got mine through NewEgg, I could have saved about $5.


SVC usually has really cheap TIM. I'm surprised with how low they sell TIM's. I just pick up AS5 from Radio Shack. It's like 8$ and can be picked up locally without having to pay for shipping.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11933915*
> I had it in this order the 1st time I did it.
> 
> Res/Pump> Radiator>CPU OUT then CPU IN> Res/Pump
> That gave me the constant BSODs because my CPU thermal thingy kicked in and protected itself
> 
> Now I reordered to this*
> Res/Pump> CPU IN then CPU Out> Rad>Res/Pump*
> Slightly better but still crazy temps. 50c idle at stock 2.66ghz i7. Will BSOD right away when I OC because the temps high.
> 
> And No, i didn't use stock TIM that came with it. I used some Shin-Etsu


I have mine like this. Works fine for me.You might have just got a bad seat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EzKiLl;11934729*
> Hi, Just got my XSPC Rasa RS240 all set up. Where do I sign? ; )


You will be added in a sec








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11936510*
> Has anyone used the indigo extreme? How complicated is it to use, does it indeed cool the absolute best, how long to "burn in" and would you recommend it over mx-4? Thinking about getting some with the order this week, but I'm not sure about it.


I haven't. But I've watched some videos online of people that have and they say it does an amazing job over regular TIM's.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Reseating and reapplying paste did the trick. Although when I prime I get mid 70's for my 920. I have it at 4ghz at 1.34v. Normal temps for that kind of voltage?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11936876*
> Reseating and reapplying paste did the trick. Although when I prime I get mid 70's for my 920. I have it at 4ghz at 1.34v. Normal temps for that kind of voltage?


Yes, a tiny bit high, but normal.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11936876*
> Reseating and reapplying paste did the trick. Although when I prime I get mid 70's for my 920. I have it at 4ghz at 1.34v. Normal temps for that kind of voltage?


C0 or D0?


----------



## jamborhgini313

D0


----------



## wermad

you have ht on or off?


----------



## jamborhgini313

HT Is on


----------



## armada10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11936876*
> Reseating and reapplying paste did the trick. Although when I prime I get mid 70's for my 920. I have it at 4ghz at 1.34v. Normal temps for that kind of voltage?


What's your ambient temp?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Idk but its pretty cool I have the AC on


----------



## mbudden

That might be the reason. Your temps are usually higher with HT on.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Seem right?


----------



## Liighthead

^ which kit u got?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Rs360


----------



## Josh154

Hey guys, so my friend just built a new rig. He's got a 980x with a gtx 580 and he has a haf x. Now he is a complete noob and has never overclocked and he said he wants me to help him get his 980x to 4.0 and stable. Well i first told him we need to upgrade his cpu cooling cause he's only running the stock HSF with his 980x







So i was thinking the rasa kit would be great.

Would the rs 240 kit work good for his 980x only at 4.0ghz? Or should he get the rx 240? He doesn't have much left to spend cause he's 16 also and his rig puts mine to shame









Also will the rs240 mount at the top of the haf x? It would be nice to have it mounted internally at the top of possible. Is this a problem with the haf x?


----------



## mbudden

I would get the RX240 just to be on the safe side. And yes, it will fit on the top of the HAF X. I believe they have a slot for the rad up there too.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11938049*
> 
> 
> Seem right?


What is ambient temperature in your room? Higher ambient temps will give higher load temps.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;11938049*
> 
> 
> Seem right?


Temps are a little high probly should be closer to low 70s but your room temp and vcore and cpu flatness can all play a factor.


----------



## Josh154

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11938665*
> I would get the RX240 just to be on the safe side. And yes, it will fit on the top of the HAF X. I believe they have a slot for the rad up there too.


Alright cool thanks man! Ill be sure to let him know to get the rx240 instead. If he does decide to get it ill have him post pics once we have it all built


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Josh154;11938936*
> Alright cool thanks man! Ill be sure to let him know to get the rx240 instead. If he does decide to get it ill have him post pics once we have it all built


What is his budget? maybe he should stick with a good air cooler? you can get 4.0 on air with i7s


----------



## mbudden

Water > Air


----------



## jamborhgini313

Well back to playing with the loop


----------



## taftmcintosh

I currently have my block mounted like the amd users. Ive tried it several different ways with no noticeable changes in temp. Was just easier to plumb in that manner for me.


----------



## Jonesey I7

And just as quick as I bought it, I just sold it locally for $135 dollars more, which is exactly how much more I needed to get the 2600k.























I couldn't resist.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Josh154*


Hey guys, so my friend just built a new rig. He's got a 980x with a gtx 580 and he has a haf x. Now he is a complete noob and has never overclocked and he said he wants me to help him get his 980x to 4.0 and stable. Well i first told him we need to upgrade his cpu cooling cause he's only running the stock HSF with his 980x







So i was thinking the rasa kit would be great.

Would the rs 240 kit work good for his 980x only at 4.0ghz? Or should he get the rx 240? He doesn't have much left to spend cause he's 16 also and his rig puts mine to shame









Also will the rs240 mount at the top of the haf x? It would be nice to have it mounted internally at the top of possible. Is this a problem with the haf x?


Glad to know rich parents are spoiling their kids.
Hopefully he doesn't turn out to be a jerk like all the other spoiled kids I know of. *thinks of highschool and the popular click*


----------



## mbudden

Wait. What?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


And just as quick as I bought it, I just sold it locally for $135 dollars more, which is exactly how much more I needed to get the 2600k.





















I couldn't resist.


wait you just sold your rasa kit for 135 dollars more then you paid for it?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


wait you just sold your rasa kit for 135 dollars more then you paid for it?
























No no, I sold my 965be, mobo and ram yesterday.... Then I bought a golden i7, mobo, and ram yesterday for GREAT price here. THEN today I sold the i7, mobo and ram locally for $135 more than I bought it for, which gives me enough to get the 2600k that I reallllllllllllly wanted anyway.


----------



## KGIXXER7

sweet jonsey


----------



## boostinsteve

Finished up with the install today. Really digging the water way of cooling things. I get very little rise in temp from unloaded to loaded. However, my 940 is going. Running prime95, it won't pass no matter what I do. I keep getting hardware failures on 3 of the 4 cores. Guess it will be time for a bulldozer with the tax refund this year.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Josh154*


Hey guys, so my friend just built a new rig. He's got a 980x with a gtx 580 and he has a haf x. Now he is a complete noob and has never overclocked and he said he wants me to help him get his 980x to 4.0 and stable. Well i first told him we need to upgrade his cpu cooling cause he's only running the stock HSF with his 980x







So i was thinking the rasa kit would be great.

Would the rs 240 kit work good for his 980x only at 4.0ghz? Or should he get the rx 240? He doesn't have much left to spend cause he's 16 also and his rig puts mine to shame









Also will the rs240 mount at the top of the haf x? It would be nice to have it mounted internally at the top of possible. Is this a problem with the haf x?


hafx. fit a 360 rad? if so illd go with that.. bit better temps :] 
and iff needed you can always push/pull. but 360 rad should do it.


----------



## GoodInk

Heads up GT 15's are in stock at Koolertek
http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...5-184p1390.htm


----------



## sgilmore62

Got home from work a little while ago and my XSPC 5970 block and Primochill tubing was sitting in front of my door. Don't really have the gumption to do much with it at the moment.


----------



## mbudden

Do it. Do it.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11945917*
> Do it. Do it.


Theres some buggered up spots on the fittings threads that doesn't inspire the kind of confidence that makes me want to attach my GPU to it without leak testing it first. The overall quality isn't very inspirational as a matter of fact. Hopefully it will cool my 5970 better than the Accelero Xtreme once the buggered up spots are straightened out.


----------



## sgilmore62




----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11946412*


Thats normal gpu blocks arent mirror like cpu ones my ek was same way kinda like swirls just clean it up and put it on way it says.


----------



## mbudden

Doesn't look like there is anything wrong to me.


----------



## Jonesey I7

That block looks good to me too.


----------



## wermad

Yup, all three of my gpu blocks have a minor swirl, can't really notice them too much since they are nickel plated, but the copper ones look like that. its from the machining.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11948876*
> Yup, all three of my gpu blocks have a minor swirl, can't really notice them too much since they are nickel plated, but the copper ones look like that. its from the machining.


This. Even when you lap a CPU to perfection, you're going to get micro scratches that you can't remove. It's just how things are.


----------



## Sainesk

newbie question, what are the fan grills for?

and is this how it's supposed to go?

top of case
rad
fans pulling air downwards through rad
grills

?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sainesk*


newbie question, what are the fan grills for?

and is this how it's supposed to go?

top of case
rad
fans pulling air downwards through rad
grills

?


In a nutshell... depending on the install you do, to prevent fingers and such getting into the rotating blades. Internal installs would not be such a big deal since no one I know uses the grills to cover fans in an enclosed system. If you install externally though... little fingers, cat tails, etc. would be a concern and that's when the grills come in handy.

Bottom line - to cover EXPOSED fans. For example I will be installing my rad externally. I will use the grills for protect my cat's tail.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ok... question. I am planning my install, checking tube lengths and such. I will be using the Indigo Extreme TIM which requires a "reflow" of the TIM between the CPU and the water block. For an effective reflow I must place the case on it's side during a "burn in" process. My question is this - How safe would this be with a full reservoir??? Does the reservoir prevent liquid from coming out of the fill hole? The pump and all fans will be turned off during the reflow process (under stock settings).


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


In a nutshell... depending on the install you do, to prevent fingers and such getting into the rotating blades.


oh, yay I guess I can skip that then









and these little black doughnut shaped things, do they go between the case and rad for cushioning?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sainesk*


and these little black doughnut shaped things, do they go between the case and rad for cushioning?


If they are the rubber o-rings that are packed with the 4 aluminum "Z" shaped brackets... I believe they are used to isolate the rad vibrations as liquid flows through it when installed using the brackets. I suppose you could use then to isolate the rad on an internal install as well if you are not going to use the brackets. Just need to keep an eye out on the screw lengths and such. If you need longer screws, make sure you get some that do not go puncturing the rad in any way.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Ok... question. I am planning my install, checking tube lengths and such. I will be using the Indigo Extreme TIM which requires a "reflow" of the TIM between the CPU and the water block. For an effective reflow I must place the case on it's side during a "burn in" process. My question is this - How safe would this be with a full reservoir??? Does the reservoir prevent liquid from coming out of the fill hole? The pump and all fans will be turned off during the reflow process (under stock settings).


I would be more worried about the pump sucking air. You could run it with out the pump/res mounted.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *GoodInk*   I would be more worried about the pump sucking air. You could run it with out the pump/res mounted.  
The pump is off during the heating process.    
 Reflow Process  



 
 Here is a video showing the method. The idea is to build up heat between the CPU and the WB so the TIM "melts" and flows in between filling all the gaps and such.

Good call on the air in the pump though... I do have to start things up at a specific point.


----------



## Sainesk

last question I think, hows the block supposed to mount on AMD? (I think my kit came with the AMD mounting backplate...)

would it be like in my picture, bolt - nut - spring - block - washer? or am I an idiot


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


The pump is off during the heating process. Reflow Process Here is a video showing the method. The idea is to build up heat between the CPU and the WB so the TIM "melts" and flows in between filling all the gaps and such.

Good call on the air in the pump though... I do have to start things up at a specific point.


Scary stuff, but the fill cap should be fine with out leaking.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sainesk*


last question I think, hows the block supposed to mount on AMD? (I think my kit came with the AMD mounting backplate...)

would it be like in my picture, bolt - nut - spring - block - washer? or am I an idiot










Nooooo, that's no amd backplate, that's the amd bracket that goes on the front, the rasa kits do not come w/ amd backplate. check the op (opening post), there is a guide on how to convert your mb stock amd back retaining bracket and use it w/ the rasa cpu block.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Nooooo, that's no amd backplate, that's the amd bracket that goes on the front, the rasa kits do not come w/ amd backplate. check the op (opening post), there is a guide on how to convert your mb stock amd back retaining bracket and use it w/ the rasa cpu block.


here is a pic of it on my amd:


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11950768*
> last question I think, hows the block supposed to mount on AMD? (I think my kit came with the AMD mounting backplate...)
> 
> would it be like in my picture, bolt - nut - spring - block - washer? or am I an idiot


Bolt-Nut-Spring-Washer... as in image #4 of the install "manual" (even though it is Intel instructions, should be the same for AMD install - just switch the plates. The idea is that once installed, you can use that nut to increase the pressure of the block onto the CPU.


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11950962*
> Nooooo, that's no amd backplate, that's the amd bracket that goes on the front, the rasa kits do not come w/ amd backplate. check the op (opening post), there is a guide on how to convert your mb stock amd back retaining bracket and use it w/ the rasa cpu block.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;11950980*
> here is a pic of it on my amd:


oh, *facepalm*

thanks for that pic, so it goes from the back: bolt - mobo - nut - spring - block with the thing I thought was a backplate







- washer?

is it the screws on the side or the ones on the copper part I have to unscrew (or both) to change to the amd bracket? edit: actually it's probably the black ones on top...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11950881*
> Scary stuff, but the fill cap should be fine with out leaking.


I know... but plenty of install videos and that's the procedure to follow. We will see and I better see some damn good results! Will have my Sham-Wow (Vince FTW!) underneath just in case.


----------



## Kahbrohn

What you thought was a back plate actually installes like this:










Using the modified motherboard back plate (Post #62) and you will be set...


----------



## Kahbrohn

(Double post... sorry)


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sainesk*


oh, *facepalm*

thanks for that pic, so it goes from the back: bolt - mobo - nut - spring - block with the thing I thought was a backplate







- washer?

is it the screws on the side or the ones on the copper part I have to unscrew (or both) to change to the amd bracket? edit: actually it's probably the black ones on top...


yeah it comes with 4 long screws with nuts and plastic washers,i have some small metal washers i used to,
screws go thru the back of mobo and this is how i did it:screw>metal washer>plastic washer>put thru mobo>plastic washer>metal washer>nut.
then the waterblock slids over the 4 screws,then i used another metal washer>plastic washer>spring>finger nut.
when tightening down waterblock turn all finger nuts equally.


----------



## DullBoi

Got a small update on my rig



























I know its a mess, but I didn't have those solid fittings to go between GPU blocks and its summer here and it gets 41 degrees celcius outside and about 34-36 in my room, thus the random fans in the middle and the bottom to cool the mobo, whilst folding ofc







Case stays closed 24/7









EK FC5970 + EK FC5850 + RS240 Rad + Black Ice GTS X-flow 120 + XSPC Rasa CPU Block and 2.4 metres of UV tubing all running from the XSPC X20 750 pump/res combo that came with the original kit









Folding temps are not to shabby with the extra heat from the 5970









https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?...en&output=html

Chow.


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


*hafx. fit a 360 rad?* if so illd go with that.. bit better temps :] 
and iff needed you can always push/pull. but 360 rad should do it.


Says so in the specs and since I have such a case I can assure you it'll fit a 360 rad np, 480 would need some modding









Got a 240 in mine


----------



## sgilmore62

Got my XSPC GPU block and black tubing installed. Ran Furmark extreme burnin benchmark and stability test and GPU cores are maxing at 36C stock clocks. Gonna bump up the voltages and clocks to see how it does. VRM's are max 40C in Furmark at stock so far...


----------



## KGIXXER7

lookin good sgilmore, I don't think I could ever go back to a non WC card now...I have been spoiled.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7*


lookin good sgilmore, I don't think I could ever go back to a non WC card now...I have been spoiled.


thx KGIXXER7, your rig looks awesome. I ordered that same black OCZ RAM cooler you have because I liked how it looked in the pic of your rig.


----------



## KGIXXER7

thanks, yeah that was the only one that I found that was black and blue.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Ok, now I have a quandry and want your opinions.

I was just given a 1600w amp, two 1200w 15"in woofers, and another 200w amp for my 6x9's. Obviously, I'm gonna have to get it all installed now, which will run about $400 after all is said and done.

All that really doesn't matter, what does matter is this question. Would you...

A. Go with my original plan to pick up another 2 23" asus monitors for eyefinity, another 6870 w/ ek block for crossfire and not get the stuff installed in the car. OR would you...

B. Keep my single 6870, forget the two monitors and pick up like a 42" for super size single monitor, and have enough to install all of the above equipment in my trunk?

Opinions please and thanks.


----------



## kingofyo1

car audio in my opinion is overrated. excess bass has proven more detrimental to your ears health than any video card and eyefinity ^^


----------



## KGIXXER7

you do any gaming jonesey?

if it were me I would go with #1

I never liked that big of screen sitting that close to me, but I wouldn't use eyefinity either...I would just have the 2 other monitors for the extra programs, music, etc etc etc.

or do you travel/commute alot in your car and like to have nice music? I am more of a 2 10" woofer enclosure, or 1 12" sub for a nice sound...thats just me though


----------



## kingofyo1

dullboi and sgil have been added to the spreadsheet nao.. Matt, you been slackin


----------



## Jonesey I7

I game alot, but only play one game BFBC2. I do drive to work and back each day, that's it. I just figured these things were given to me, I might as well use them.


----------



## KGIXXER7

free is good


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11953522*
> dullboi and sgil have been added to the spreadsheet nao.. Matt, you been slackin


Never. I added the past 5 people. You sir. Have been slackin


----------



## kingofyo1

lolol ok whatevs buddy







hows the folding going for ya?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11953835*
> lolol ok whatevs buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hows the folding going for ya?


Wow. Thanks for mentioning that. Just checked HFM and noticed a GPU WU had failed. "Unstable Machine" but my 6 other WU's I've completed were just fine.... How strange. Caught a 6701. Having to grind through that... lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Hes lacking he needs to bump it up to catch me .....


----------



## mbudden

LOL. there's only so much i can do with this little chip








already at 4.2Ghz @ 1.5V
& my 8800GT is almost hitting 1900 shaders. lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

true lol i got 3 rigs folding i7 4300mhz e5300 4000mhz q6600 3000mhz and 2 8800gt.


----------



## kingofyo1

im just on my bigadv x6, 460(soon to be upped to an msi cyclone 460 1gb with waterblock, already purchased will ship tomorrow) and ummm sometimes ps3 lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea i just started bigadv on my i7 ence it stable now and if you see stuff without letters ometime my kb i going nut lol. Look like it ill take 60-65 hr for me to finish the bigadv.


----------



## kingofyo1

yep, your s key is on the fritz, bal3. 60-65 is just about right.. I think mine finishes in a total of right under 3 days


----------



## Bal3Wolf

hmm even better then i thought when getting a % done every 32min so that would be 3200mins to complete it which is 53hrs. so hen i got no down time i hould get some nice time.


----------



## Sainesk

almost done just leak testing and bleeding, no leaks yet







the reservoir/pump, I can fill that to the top right?


----------



## mbudden

Not all the way to the top. Or you will have spilling water. Ask me how I know lol. Leave a little air from the top. I tried filling mine to the top top top haha


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11954630*
> Not all the way to the top. Or you will have spilling water. Ask me how I know lol. Leave a little air from the top. I tried filling mine to the top top top haha










little air as in how deep the black plastic cap screws in or even less?


----------



## Klaufi

Hey guys,
New to WC'ing and i´m finishing up an order for RS360 from FrozenCPU..

What do you reccomend buying besides the kit?

What do you think, 8-10ft of tubing? (Need colored tubes..)

And some questions about additives:
After reading the old version of this thread ive decided to leave out color (was going to take this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5789/ex-liq-42/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_-_UV_Electric_Blue.html)..
And going for colored tubes..

Anyone know how this Utopia stuff works out?
IandH Silver KillCoils: Do i need more than one?
IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal PC Coolant Additive: Do you recommend this along with KillCoil or is the kill coil enough??

Anything else tou think i should buy?


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11954630*
> Not all the way to the top. Or you will have spilling water. Ask me how I know lol. Leave a little air from the top. I tried filling mine to the top top top haha


ask me how I know too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11954708*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> little air as in how deep the black plastic cap screws in or even less?


from front panel view I keep mine about 1/4 inch down.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11954708*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> little air as in how deep the black plastic cap screws in or even less?


Meh. Idk. I just leave a little bit of air. no need to fill it to the top. As long as there is enough for the pump to pump water and not air.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klaufi;11954825*
> Hey guys,
> New to WC'ing and i´m finishing up an order for RS360 from FrozenCPU..
> 
> What do you reccomend buying besides the kit?
> 
> What do you think, 8-10ft of tubing? (Need colored tubes..)
> 
> And some questions about additives:
> After reading the old version of this thread ive decided to leave out color (was going to take this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5789/ex-liq-42/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_-_UV_Electric_Blue.html)..
> And going for colored tubes..
> 
> Anyone know how this Utopia stuff works out?
> IandH Silver KillCoils: Do i need more than one?
> IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal PC Coolant Additive: Do you recommend this along with KillCoil or is the kill coil enough??
> 
> Anything else tou think i should buy?


2m's would be fine. That's how much comes with the kit. (6ft)
No. You just need one KillCoil. No need for drops if you're going with the Silver. As it does the same thing.

I personally use silver kill coil. Working fine for me


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klaufi;11954825*
> Hey guys,
> New to WC'ing and i´m finishing up an order for RS360 from FrozenCPU..
> 
> What do you reccomend buying besides the kit?
> 
> What do you think, 8-10ft of tubing? (Need colored tubes..)
> 
> Anyone know how this Utopia stuff works out?
> IandH Silver KillCoils: Do i need more than one?
> IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal PC Coolant Additive: Do you recommend this along with KillCoil or is the kill coil enough??
> 
> Anything else tou think i should buy?


are you just doing you CPU, or do you putting a GPU in the loop to?

might want to fill out you system specs here..http://www.overclock.net/specs.php

so we know what equipment you are running


----------



## Klaufi

Quote:


> 2m's would be fine. That's how much comes with the kit. (6ft)
> No. You just need one KillCoil. No need for drops if you're going with the Silver. As it does the same thing.
> 
> I personally use silver kill coil. Working fine for me


So the standard RS360kit + 6ft of tubing + KillCoil + http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7015/ex-liq-94/Feser_Aqua_Non_Conductive_Ultra_Pure_Water_-_1000_ml_FA-0054.html

Should be enough? No corrosion blocking additive or anything..

Well, if that's all you think i'll need then i´m ordering now..

Btw, distilled water is hard to get to since i live in Iceland, do you recommend taking more then one liter of that Feser stuff?
I reckon this system must take somwhere between 750ml-1l and i would need to flush it..

And yh, last question, anything else you think i should add for maintenance or something, because i dont just run to the store to stuff related to watercooling, i'd like to order everything i might need in one order..^^

Sorry for the question flow and thanks for the fast response btw!


----------



## Klaufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11954910*
> are you just doing you CPU, or do you putting a GPU in the loop to?
> 
> might want to fill out you system specs here..http://www.overclock.net/specs.php
> 
> so we know what equipment you are running


For starters i'll only be doing my Cpu, but thinking of adding a block to my GTX460 in the next weeks/months, customs taxes here are a killer when ordering stuff like this, cant regulate to myself buying the vga block at 70% price of the full kit..

Will be filling out my spec in a minute!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11954554*
> almost done just leak testing and bleeding, no leaks yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the reservoir/pump, I can fill that to the top right?


Yea dont fill to top i did same and ended up having it all over my hardrives lol and in my case.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klaufi;11954971*
> So the standard RS360kit + 6ft of tubing + KillCoil + http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7015/ex-liq-94/Feser_Aqua_Non_Conductive_Ultra_Pure_Water_-_1000_ml_FA-0054.html
> 
> Should be enough? No corrosion blocking additive or anything..
> 
> Well, if that's all you think i'll need then i´m ordering now..
> 
> Btw, distilled water is hard to get to since i live in Iceland, do you recommend taking more then one liter of that Feser stuff?
> I reckon this system must take somwhere between 750ml-1l and i would need to flush it..
> 
> And yh, last question, anything else you think i should add for maintenance or something, because i dont just run to the store to stuff related to watercooling, i'd like to order everything i might need in one order..^^
> 
> Sorry for the question flow and thanks for the fast response btw!


I'm sure you could pick up distilled water some where. You sure that you can't pick it up at a grocery store or anything? But I picked up a Gallon of Distilled. (3.8L's) and I was able to get two uses out of it with not sure how much remaining. Not sure if a liter will do. But I'm not too certain. You don't really need anything else.

Distilled Water (Fesser) + Rasa Kit + Kill Coil. And you should be all set.


----------



## sgilmore62

Uninstalled ATI drivers and used driversweeper in safe mode then reinstalled drivers because GPU-Z wasn't reading temps correctly and wasn't reporting 2nd GPU clocks.

VRM temps max 79C running Furmark extreme burnin benchmark 1920x1080 924/1250. Wonder if I should get some thicker/better thermal pads for the VRM's?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

that seems hot but you do only have a rx240 and a i7 in the loop right. My 5870 hit right at 68c with it at 1.35 and furmark and i thk i didnt get it mounted just right.


----------



## mbudden

I know nothing about ATI cards







sorry.


----------



## Klaufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11955040*
> I'm sure you could pick up distilled water some where. You sure that you can't pick it up at a grocery store or anything? But I picked up a Gallon of Distilled. (3.8L's) and I was able to get two uses out of it with not sure how much remaining. Not sure if a liter will do. But I'm not too certain. You don't really need anything else.
> 
> Distilled Water (Fesser) + Rasa Kit + Kill Coil. And you should be all set.


Reason for why it's hard to get a hold of is that our flowing sink water (needed the english word







) is so clean that we hardly have use for distilled, i could use "sink water" on this like i did on my Xbox360, but i want this to be perfect..


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Thanks for all the help everyone







Here she be!









By blkdoutgsxr at 2011-01-09









By blkdoutgsxr at 2011-01-09









By blkdoutgsxr at 2011-01-09









By blkdoutgsxr at 2011-01-09


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klaufi;11955162*
> Reason for why it's hard to get a hold of is that our flowing sink water (needed the english word
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) is so clean that we hardly have use for distilled, i could use "sink water" on this like i did on my Xbox360, but i want this to be perfect..


The English word for "flowing sink water" would be "tap water"







just for future reference.







and I could imagine it being all clean and pure. But the problem is, there is still impurities in tap water. Even if it's Mountain Spring Water. Distilled water you pick up from the store is usually distilled twice to get rid of the baddies.

But I'd say pick up 2L's. One to make sure you have enough, and two. If you have extra, you don't have to pay for shipping on a liter of it if you need to do a flush later on.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11955188*
> Thanks for all the help everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here she be!


What kit is it? So I can add you if you haven't been added already


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

RS240 from frozen


----------



## Klaufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11955204*
> The English word for "flowing sink water" would be "tap water"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just for future reference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I could imagine it being all clean and pure. But the problem is, there is still impurities in tap water. Even if it's Mountain Spring Water. Distilled water you pick up from the store is usually distilled twice to get rid of the baddies.
> 
> But I'd say pick up 2L's. One to make sure you have enough, and two. If you have extra, you don't have to pay for shipping on a liter of it if you need to do a flush later on.


Thanks for the english lesson









I already put 2l in cart and am browsing to see if i find anything else interesting on frozen before i checkout


----------



## mbudden

@kingofyo1 lol those ones that you said you added earlier, they were already in the list silly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11955241*
> RS240 from frozen


Added.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klaufi;11955266*
> Thanks for the english lesson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already put 2l in cart and am browsing to see if i find anything else interesting on frozen before i checkout


No problem







I know English isn't everyone's first language. So I don't mind helping out









You'll find tons of things, don't go overboard


----------



## Bal3Wolf

remmber coupon code on the first page also to save some money.


----------



## Klaufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11955324*
> remmber coupon code on the first page also to save some money.


Yh, thanks, just noticed !


----------



## kirb112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11547984*
> Stock RS240 vs Megahalems Rev.2
> i5 750 running 4.0GHz(200x20)
> CPUv: 1.425v
> IMC/VTT: 1.2455v
> CPU PLL: 1.802v
> 
> Running a Megahalems Rev.2 with two Gelid Silent 12 PWM fans @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores
> Idle: 41°C
> Max: 72.25°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC Rasa 240 kit only with stock fans running in pull, air coming from outside the case @ 23°C ambient temp/ave of all 4 cores(less than 24hrs cure time using AS5)
> Idle: 35.5°C
> Max: 60.5°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my Sniper before I modded my Scout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scout before the upgraded GPU and RX120
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upgraded with a RX120 and added a 5870 to the loop.


What do you have securing your hard drives in this setup?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kirb112;11955344*
> What do you have securing your hard drives in this setup?


Please snip out the picture code when quoting a big picture post like that please...


----------



## Jonesey I7

My monitor!!! aaaahhhh


----------



## Bal3Wolf

crybabys







my 24inch didnt mind neither did my 10mbit cable sence i fixed my keyboard stuff is loading better lol i thk my keyboard had keys stuck making crap slower.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kirb112;11955344*
> What do you have securing your hard drives in this setup?


They are attached to the case and I used the screws and o-rings that cam with the kit.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11955470*
> crybabys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 24inch didnt mind neither did my 10mbit cable sence i fixed my keyboard stuff is loading better lol i thk my keyboard had keys stuck making crap slower.


What if I was using my notebook? I would have died


----------



## Bal3Wolf

haha that would be funny i hear you now cussing the screen.


----------



## mbudden

It probably would have froze. I'd have to restart it or something. But thank god I'm on my desktop.


----------



## Sainesk

Any tips for bleeding? Having a hard time getting all the air bubbles...


----------



## mbudden

I just disconnected a hose from my rad and let it drain.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11955903*
> I just disconnected a hose from my rad and let it drain.


To bleed it?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11955889*
> Any tips for bleeding? Having a hard time getting all the air bubbles...


Let it run and shake or tilt the case lol dont listen to bud he read it wrong thats to drain it lol.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11956025*
> To bleed it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11956032*
> Let it run and shake or tilt the case lol dont listen to bud he read it wrong thats to drain it lol.












this is what i get for having multiple tabs open and doing multiple things at once. lol


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11956059*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is what i get for having multiple tabs open and doing multiple things at once. lol


bahahahah! nice one mbudden









So anyone wanna donate two EK 470 blocks to me? Haha I'm gonna be broke next month if I do end up buying them lmao


----------



## Bal3Wolf

haha and donate me a 5870 with a ek block to


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11956155*
> haha and donate me a 5870 with a ek block to


hahaha where are those freebies?! ahha


----------



## Jonesey I7

On a side note, wth is going on with Newegg>?? Can someone else go and make sure it's not something wrong with this p.o.s. i'm using please.


----------



## mbudden

Newegg looks perfectly fine to me on my computer...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

newegg works fine here to maybe you should try ie or firefox.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11956453*
> newegg works fine here to maybe you should try ie or firefox.


It was the video driver for this crappy azz Dell. Updated, problem gone. And yes Bal3, I did sell the 920 mobo and ram, even after all the shiat I talked.

But hey, I made almost $150 bucks more than what I bought it for.


----------



## wermad

picked up an RX240 from a fellow ocn member, now gotta mod my corsair for it


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11956646*
> It was the video driver for this crappy azz Dell. Updated, problem gone. And yes Bal3, I did sell the 920 mobo and ram, even after all the shiat I talked.
> 
> But hey, I made almost $150 bucks more than what I bought it for.


lol and you will kick yourself if you get a crappy 2600k that wont do atleast 4500.


----------



## Sainesk

Man, no problems during leak testing but as soon as I moved my case from the table to the floor I get a leak between a barb and pump in. Rig wasn't on but I'm pretty demoralized...  gonna work on it tomorrow


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

So what seems to be the best fan setup for this kit? I don't know if it was due to poor testing methods but having push/pull doesn't seem to be noticeably cooler?


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11957306*
> Man, no problems during leak testing but as soon as I moved my case from the table to the floor I get a leak between a barb and pump in. Rig wasn't on but I'm pretty demoralized...  gonna work on it tomorrow


That is kinda scary for me... I can't see into my computer (no plexiglass)


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;11957306*
> Man, no problems during leak testing but as soon as I moved my case from the table to the floor I get a leak between a barb and pump in. Rig wasn't on but I'm pretty demoralized...  gonna work on it tomorrow


Thats wierd my rig has been moved turned upside down shaked you name it and haset sprung a leak other then when i pull a tub off and its the one i didnt drain lol.


----------



## fr0st.

2000th post









I want John from Jab-tech to e-mail me back saying he has the 5970 block so I can order


----------



## logan666

just wondering witch way is the inlet and outlet on the res/pump 4 the rxpc rs360 kit im just about 2 install it in my raven 2 and also iver got some pure pc coolant stuff is that ok ive got 940ml would that b suffient?? plus can i use silver with it aslo cheers


----------



## wermad

outlet is the metal one, inlet is the port on the acrylic wall.


----------



## logan666

sweet cheers dood


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11957615*
> sweet cheers dood


np


----------



## Liighthead

would the rasa 750 kit be alright with
the 360 rad + 240 rad + gpu block + cpu block? :] the pump be alright with that on it


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11957974*
> would the rasa 750 kit be alright with
> the 360 rad + 240 rad + gpu block + cpu block? :] the pump be alright with that on it


Should be alright. I wouldn't add anything past that though if you want to keep flow up.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11957980*
> Should be alright. I wouldn't add anything past that though if you want to keep flow up.


mmmm how well would just the 360 rad cool a i5 750 + 460? oced


----------



## wermad

the rs should be fine, the rx should have plenty of upgrade (sli gtx







)


----------



## logan666

so ive got my raven2 wc now i order the rs360 kit but wen i opened it it was the rx360 kit they sent the wrong 1 lol














il post up pocs 2morra im room temp is around 28 degrees my i5 is idleing at 45 does that seem ok ??? 1 fan is not working on the rad tho i gotta check it out 2morra


----------



## Liighthead

^ haha win









and yeh 1 fan on my rs360 wasnt working as well


----------



## Klaufi

Well, order placed and payed for a RS360!

Can't wait!

Hope it'll be here by this week!


----------



## KGIXXER7

couple pics :cheers


----------



## ELPCU

RX360 Kit.

I bought Hose and other minor things seperately but still.




























I wonder why my temp doesn't go down, so possbly there will be change som but still, here is my system.


----------



## mbudden

Added







200pages and 49 users.


----------



## ELPCU

I dunno why my system's temp is not better than H50(sigh).


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ELPCU*


I dunno why my system's temp is not better than H50(sigh).


Try reseating your block, your temps should be way better then an H50.


----------



## mbudden

Either a bad mount or there is bubbles somewhere in the loop.


----------



## ELPCU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Try reseating your block, your temps should be way better then an H50.


Thanks. I will try it this weekend. 
I don't have enough time to deal with my computer during weeks.


----------



## ELPCU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Either a bad mount or there is bubbles somewhere in the loop.


I guess bad mount. I may need to redo the CPU mount.
Maybe I want to stress my GPU so I can make sure it is bad CPU mount.
In the pic, there is some bubble but those are removed now.


----------



## man00

Had mine for little over a week now, everything is okay besides the res/pump water leaks from the fill cap if case is tilted, now pump is starting to make odd noise and rattling sounds may be on the way out...


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Either a bad mount or there is bubbles somewhere in the loop.


Bubbles. DEFINITELY bubbles. I had that issue because my res was tilted, and the air turbulence from the top of the res was making it into the loop somehow. It was making my temps stupid high.

@ man00 - see if you can find an O-ring the size of your res cap. This is a must, because it will not only seal the fillcap, but it will keep you from screwing it on too tight to the point where you fracture the material.


----------



## taftmcintosh

If you have bubbles in radiator or block that will cause it for sure. Have you bled your loop yet?


----------



## logan666

heres my rs360 kit that i got but turned out they sent me the rx360 kit


----------



## mbudden

I'll add you when this site gets it's ish together.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I'll add you when this site gets it's ish together.


yeah I was noticing the same thing yesterday









The site was particularly slow and I got the 500 Error


----------



## ELPCU

Well, I don't think its due to bubble, because this is my third time to pour the water in(leakage test with distilled water x2 + pouring real coolant(1:1 mix of distilled water : Feser One Blue))
, and each time I pour my coolant, I tried to take out bubble as much as I can, and I also check my temp, but there was problem.

In fact, my picture was taken during I opened the reservor cap for taking out huge bubble. I also tilted and shake my case as well after I closed my reservor.

However, I can tilt and shake again, I will do that when I go home; there is no problem with tilting millions times. If this bubble problem, I would be more glad, because then I don't need to take coolant out and place my CPU block again.

By the way, thank for all comments


----------



## Sainesk

looks like my leak was just a tightness issue with the barb, but gonna keep an eye on it...

does it look okay?


----------



## ELPCU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sainesk*


looks like my leak was just a tightness issue with the barb, but gonna keep an eye on it...

does it look okay?










For me, it seems okay.

RASA kit has really tight barb + hose.

If you installed correctly and use clamps to tighten it, then there should be no problem unless you tried to take out or something physical force.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ELPCU*


Well, I don't think its due to bubble, because this is my third time to pour the water in(leakage test with distilled water x2 + pouring real coolant(1:1 mix of distilled water : Feser One Blue))
, and each time I pour my coolant, I tried to take out bubble as much as I can, and I also check my temp, but there was problem.

In fact, my picture was taken during I opened the reservor cap for taking out huge bubble. I also tilted and shake my case as well after I closed my reservor.

However, I can tilt and shake again, I will do that when I go home; there is no problem with tilting millions times. If this bubble problem, I would be more glad, because then I don't need to take coolant out and place my CPU block again.

By the way, thank for all comments


Your picture looks like you have a 90 degree fitting on your rad and you have a GPU plus that T-fitting creating a good bit of restriction in your system. The pump probably can't handle the restriction, if you could do away with the 90 degree fittings it might help. Are there 2 90 degree fittings on the rad?


----------



## ELPCU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


Your picture looks like you have a 90 degree fitting on your rad and you have a GPU plus that T-fitting creating a good bit of restriction in your system. The pump probably can't handle the restriction, if you could do away with the 90 degree fittings it might help. Are there 2 90 degree fittings on the rad?


Oh, there is one 90deg fitting for rad, but one more 90 degree fitting for pump/reservor, and Yes, one T-fitting to make another 90 turn.

Is that slow flow down a lot?


----------



## mbudden

Very much so.


----------



## ELPCU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Very much so.


Hmm. I see. Anyway, thanks for advises.
I may need to reduce 90 deg turn as much as possible or add another pump....

Is it okay to run different kinds of pump with another pump?
I mean does using both mcp-655 with X2O 750 pump is okay?


----------



## Gigalisk

Oh yeah...i dont use em...if i need bent fittings i use 45 swivels (Koolance).

About filling your system, once you have enough to run the pump without stopping to put more water in, just keep it running until you have it filled to where you like. Then you need to RUN THe SYSTEM WITH THE RES CAP OFF until the fizz goes away. You'll see what i'm talking about once you have the res filled. Leave enough room so that the cap doesnt displace the water, or else you're gonna have to clean up some coolant when you finaly close the res.

Hope that helps.

Gigalisk
(Forward Deployed)


----------



## Jonesey I7

Ordered my Mobo and Ram today, those and my 2600k will be here Thurs. So atleast my computer will be functional with the old air cooler I have until I can get the rest of my new stuff on the 30th.


----------



## boostinsteve

OK, I am officially addicted to WC'ing. This is rediculous, I spend free time now just looking on frozencpu for more blocks and such to add to another loop. I am thinking I will do another seperate loop for my chipset and GPU's.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve;11963770*
> OK, I am officially addicted to WC'ing. This is rediculous, I spend free time now just looking on frozencpu for more blocks and such to add to another loop. I am thinking I will do another seperate loop for my chipset and GPU's.


Welcome to the Dark Side. See? We do have cookies!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11964065*
> Welcome to the Dark Side. See? We do have cookies!


naaa you got it wrong we are the cold side


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11957263*
> lol and you will kick yourself if you get a crappy 2600k that wont do atleast 4500.


Nah, I'll sell it for $20 bucks less than what I paid for it, and try try try again til I get a great one.








On top of that, I decided against crossfire and the eyefinity setup.... just keeping the card I have, getting a good sized tv for a monitor. ALso just gonna get the mcp655-b, no need for the big boy as I'm just gonna be cooling the 2600k and the one 6870. THEREFORE, I can go nearly silent on the fans and keep the noise below audible levels now. Oh yea, and just gonna get the RX360 too.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11964774*
> Nah, I'll sell it for $20 bucks less than what I paid for it, and try try try again til I get a great one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On top of that, I decided against crossfire and the eyefinity setup.... just keeping the card I have, getting a good sized tv for a monitor. ALso just gonna get the mcp655-b, no need for the big boy as I'm just gonna be cooling the 2600k and the one 6870. THEREFORE, I can go nearly silent on the fans and keep the noise below audible levels now. Oh yea, and just gonna get the RX360 too.


Lol and im looking at upgrading my loop to this stuff in a few months it will give me 720 rad space should make it cooler on the cpu when i get my 2nd 5870.

XSPC RX240 - Dual 120mm high performance radiator 66.95
XSPC RX120 - Single 120mm high performance radiator 47.95
Dangerden High Flow G 1/4 Fittings - 1/2" 4x 10.00
PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD 5feet 8.00

Subtotal: $132.90
Discount coupon :$6.65
Discounted subtotal: $126.25
Shipping cost: $11.12
Total: $137.37


----------



## wermad

new pump and res


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11965805*
> new pump and res


Cool i like the look of that better then the one for 655.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11962028*
> heres my rs360 kit that i got but turned out they sent me the rx360 kit


you've been added


----------



## logan666

mmm i just come home from work n the bit where the power lead cums out on the res has a little leak its not even dripping how how i fix that id have 2 pull my whole loop part


----------



## mbudden

You could either contact XSPC to have them replace it. Or hit the hardware store and buy some silicone.


----------



## logan666

yeh i was thinking silicone


----------



## wermad

wow, another case where its leaking on the power harness. mine was fine and dandy. hmmm, someone should fyi xspc, might be some quality control issues here.


----------



## logan666

hey guys my room temp is 30 degrees hot as hell my i5 @4gz idle is around 40-45 n load is still the same as my h70 at about 70 does this seem right ??? i was expecting a lower temp but i think i should have stayed with my h70


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Sounds like you dont have your block mounted good and if the rooms hot the water can only do so much. And idles realy mean nothing as most intel cpus dont even read them correct.


----------



## logan666

ill try reseat it soon then


----------



## Bal3Wolf

LOl dang 4ghz is temping im folding at 40-43c with my gpu never passing 45c.


----------



## logan666

mmm well ive reseated my cpu block and my idle temp is 45 n load is around 68 im kinda dissapointed with this kit i should have stayed with the h70


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11967566*
> mmm well ive reseated my cpu block and my idle temp is 45 n load is around 68 im kinda dissapointed with this kit i should have stayed with the h70


What kind of TIM are you using and how are you applying it? you could always try lapping your block, I've heard of some people getting pretty amazing results from this.


----------



## ELPCU

I fixed my problem.

Oh my god. It was sooo noob mistake I simply palmface x1000.
I didn't take off the last layer of wrap at CPU block.
When I seat my block, I saw the first wrap and...
'Oh, it seems I need to remove it just before putting CPU block'
and didn't find there is an extra wrap.

PALMFACE!

[email protected] full load temp max 48C with LinX test.
I need to overclock back to 4.0ghz or more.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

haha good one i know after getting my air out im able to run 4200 at 45c folding on tcase lol it is around 70f in my room tho.


----------



## logan666

eh theres 2 layers lol ??? ive taking 1 layer off the bottom of the block ???


----------



## ELPCU

I mean, there is first wrap and another layer.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELPCU;11968059*
> I mean, there is first wrap and another layer.


I thk he means like the wrap that was on the entire block then theirs a thin cover you peel off the copper part of the block.


----------



## logan666

mmm i jst pulled off the plastic on the bottom of the cpu block thats all there is isnt it on the bottom???


----------



## logan666

ah yeh i pulled that off lol how did u miss that lol


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11967566*
> mmm well ive reseated my cpu block and my idle temp is 45 n load is around 68 im kinda dissapointed with this kit i should have stayed with the h70


What is your ambient? Those temps do seem a bit high.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11968389*
> What is your ambient? Those temps do seem a bit high.


I remmber him saying 30c or 86f so his ambs are really hot lol.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11968391*
> I remmber him saying 30c or 86f so his ambs are really hot lol.


Ahhh... Didn't read that far back. Sorry. Had that temp here day before yesterday and I was hitting something like 35/55 (idle/load) but he uses an Intel cpu which do run a tad hotter than AMD. I can't say other than TIM and how it is applied.


----------



## TARRCO

Finnaly got my RS360 kit


















I'll post more pics up later









*Idle -* 32 - 27 - 32 - 27

*Load -* 42 - 43 - 49 - 46


----------



## logan666

hows this look room temp is 28 degrees also my setup is res/pump-cpu-rad-res/pump is that right


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11968431*
> hows this look room temp is 28 degrees also my setup is res/pump-cpu-rad-res/pump is that right


Dude, I get like half your temps and I'm only use 2 low speed fans, somethings not right.

Ive got myne like this pump/res - rad - cpu - pump/res - rad etc.


----------



## logan666

is yours oced???


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11968469*
> is yours oced???


3.4ghz...


----------



## KillerBeaz

lol there is gonna be a temp difference between 4ghz and 3.4ghz


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TARRCO;11968450*
> Dude, I get like half your temps and I'm only use 2 low speed fans, somethings not right.
> 
> Ive got myne like this pump/res - rad - cpu - pump/res - rad etc.


Well what is your amb temps that plays a big factor i with my i7 [email protected] 1.32 vcore with ht im only hititng around 65c tops right now but my amb is low 70s And you 2 might have differt kits also. And your running 600mhz slower and alot less vcore im sure. Logan i wouldnt say their all that bad for your amb temps 28c is hot lol and even water needs cool amb to excel now if you was on air you would be hitting 80c problly.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11968431*
> hows this look room temp is 28 degrees also my setup is res/pump-cpu-rad-res/pump is that right


From what I have seen (when I was tempted to switch to Intel), those are "good" air numbers. Of course, not sure what ambients other ppl had though.

- Check/correct any kinks
- Make sure you are using a good TIM and not "overdoing it" (doubt you are if you were getting better results with the H70)
- Internal/external rad install?
- What fans do you have installed and what config? (push, pull, push/pull)
- Are the fans taking the hot air from the case and passing it through the rad?

I am planning on rad-cpu-pump-res and was told that between your set up and what I plan on - the difference will be minimal (i think 1/2*C was mentioned). I will be installing the rad externally so I am taking every advantage I can to cooling.


----------



## logan666

my temps r prolly fine i was just expecting more tho this kit is not really any better than my h70 i had


----------



## KillerBeaz

those are w/in 1 or 2 C of my temps w/ 1.4v on my h50, what fans are on your rad?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well you should be getting better with a rx360 but im guessing your amb are playing a large factor hot air going in cant cool the rad down very much. When you guys say you got better temps you need to realise he has some hot ambs lol.


----------



## TARRCO

My ambient is 24 degrees atm.

And I've only got 2 fans on my 360 rad.. My idle temps are worse then my H50 but my load temps are abour ~12c better then my H50....

Here's some better pics...

*Before*










*After -*


----------



## logan666

this is my setup all fans are blowing downwards except the bottom left its an intake 4 the hdds


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TARRCO;11968544*
> My ambient is 24 degrees atm.
> 
> And I've only got 2 fans on my 360 rad.. My idle temps are worse then my H50 but my load temps are abour ~12c better then my H50....


24c vs 28c is a big differnce lol 75f to 82f im at 73f or 22c and my load folding are in low 60s and 46-48c on tcase with the rx360 with my [email protected] with 1.32 vcore HT ON.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11968559*
> this is my setup all fans are blowing downwards except the bottom left its an intake 4 the hdds


Do you have any intake fans giving the rad fresh air ? Also looks like those videocards are dumping heat into your rad ?


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11968560*
> 24c vs 28c is a big differnce lol 75f to 82f im at 73f or 22c and my load folding are in low 60s and 46-48c on tcase with the rx360 with my [email protected] with 1.32 vcore HT ON.


It's meant to hit 39 tomorrow in the day, I'll post what temps I get then.


----------



## logan666

yeh the top 120 is bringing down cool air i just pulled my rad outta the case it made no diff in temps


----------



## KillerBeaz

you guys must be rich w/ your ambients at 75-80F (or your parents pay for it)... i got the thermostat set to a cool 62F


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBeaz;11968586*
> you guys must be rich w/ your ambients at 75-80F (or your parents pay for it)... i got the thermostat set to a cool 62F


Nahh man, in Australia atm it's like 20 billion degrees in the day then at night it gets to like -10, gotta love summer







(sucks really tbh)

I see you have UK 3000k rpm fans on your H50, so did I


















Beast of a ******* fan <3


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBeaz;11968586*
> you guys must be rich w/ your ambients at 75-80F (or your parents pay for it)... i got the thermostat set to a cool 62F


winter time here lol my windows open and its like 26f out we keep the heat down on 65 and i block off the heat vents in my room cause the computer does the heating 2 of them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11968580*
> yeh the top 120 is bringing down cool air i just pulled my rad outta the case it made no diff in temps


Something is just not right even when my room was 80f i was still only getting in the 70s with my i7 and ht which is atleast 10c hotter then your cpu and i have a gpu in my loop to. My best guess is your not getting the block mounted good i know mine took alot of trys to get on good.


----------



## logan666

mmm yeh ill try resaet 2morra im from australia aswell


----------



## KillerBeaz

lol I love them, my roommate in the dorms get's so pissed when he tries to sleep and it sounds like a vacuum cleaner is constantly running... he just couldn't fathom that a fan so small could do any real damage to a finger, he sure was wrong (yes, alcohol was involved







)


----------



## Bal3Wolf

And what paste are you using the stuff comes with the kit sucked for me so did as5 and icd the paste i found works good is shin-etsu x23.


----------



## KillerBeaz

the only good thing about the winter is the great temps (its 3F here) and driving in the snow


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11968527*
> Well you should be getting better with a rx360 but im guessing your amb are playing a large factor hot air going in cant cool the rad down very much. When you guys say you got better temps you need to realise he has some hot ambs lol.


True but the same amb's would have played a number on the H50/70's as well. With a larger "cooling" surface with the RX360 there should be a drop in those numbers... laws of physics I guess... but I flunked physics in school anyways.









I vote TIM/seating as being the culprit here... or weak pump?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11968632*
> True but the same amb's would have played a number on the H50/70's as well. With a larger "cooling" surface with the RX360 there should be a drop in those numbers... laws of physics I guess... but I flunked physics in school anyways.


Ya i thk they are a factor but not the real cause cause iv had my ambs in the 80s and still got better temps then hes getting. Im thinking its the block mounting or paste hes using.


----------



## TARRCO

Here's my load temps after 20 min of prime.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

looks like your cpu is at stock lol.


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11968720*
> looks like your cpu is at stock lol.


Oh wow it is too haha







hang on brb, must of lost overclock when reseated cpu?

Edit- Alrighty then, looks like my cpu is staying at stock, can't get my oc stable again :S


----------



## logan666

lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TARRCO;11968734*
> Oh wow it is too haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hang on brb, must of lost overclock when reseated cpu?
> 
> Edit- Alrighty then, looks like my cpu is staying at stock, can't get my oc stable again :S


lol this is why i love my asus board and its overclock profiles i have 4000,4200,4300,4400 all saved that are confirmed stable so i can load any of those and know their good to go.


----------



## logan666

how noisy is the pump meant to be??? mine makes alil bit of noise


----------



## KillerBeaz

most of the pump noise I've heard is from rattling


----------



## logan666

yeh mine sounds like its rattling


----------



## mbudden

TARCO. added you.
& mine makes no rattling. i just hear the tiny noise of the pump pumping.


----------



## premonition08

here's mine. my first water cooled pc
still doing lots of reading about water cooling
using distilled water and silver coil


----------



## Gigalisk

Guys, make sure that you're securing those pumps. Also that rattling you might hear could be bubbles. It is possible to have 1 or 2 stuck in ur pump without knowing.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11968882*
> how noisy is the pump meant to be??? mine makes alil bit of noise


If it sounds like a HHD going bad, then you may have a noisy pump. I had one and it was driving me nuts. I contacted XSPC, they said it was noisy but it was fine to use but if I wanted they would send me a new one. Let it run for a couple weeks to make sure you don't have air trapped in the pump and if it is still making noise, pull the pump/res out and run it outside the case to make sure it isn't the case rattling. If it still makes noise outside the case then I would check in to getting it replaced.


----------



## Kahbrohn

What is the best method to free the pump of bubbles? Let it run? Tap on the reservoir it is installed in?


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

Just ordered the XSPC kit and discovered this thread. I'm sure all the information I need is in here so I apologize for the lack of searching but I do have a couple of questions.

-I will be installing this kit in my Cooler Master Storm Scout. Based off this picture, I'd like to duplicate this setup, Unless there is a better setup for this case.
View attachment 189434

-I've been reading it is recommended to flush the loop before installing it. I imagine this is done outside of the case, correct? Also, what is the best "flushing" method and what should I use?

-Again, with the lack of research before I purchased, I bought the kit with Feser UV Acid Green coolant. Jeff from FrozenCPU.com said this coolant will work just fine but I've read here that Feser Ultra Pure water is the way to go with the help of additives. Am I at any risk or disadvantage running the UV Acid green coolant?

- How do I prevent or remove air bubbles?

-Last but not least, any words of wisdom or tricks for installing this kit. Possibly some decent youtube tutorial videos out there? I'd search but youtube is blocked at work. Thanks for reading!

One more thing. I occasionally attend LAN parties and I often transport my PC. Am I taking a HUGE risk doing so with a water loop? Should I drain the coolant before hand?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11970110*
> What is the best method to free the pump of bubbles? Let it run? Tap on the reservoir it is installed in?


Tilting the case and/or shaking it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11970752*
> Tilting the case and/or shaking it.


Not good. I know when I do this with Mrs. Kah... she grumbles a lot. (j/k)

Thanks... wanted that tid bit on hand in the event I ran into that issue. I hope to do my install this weekend. Already have my "before" temp readings to compare against. Did a nice 6 hr. 23 min. Prime95 run this morning using my present air cooler. At 4 Ghz, 1.4V I maxed at 53*C with an average of 78*F (25-26*C).

I know... "_Kah, that's not bad for air!_" By this afternoon and with the temp increase of the afternoon, that run would get to about 57*C (or more) easily. If this were summer here, UFFFFFFF! So, I require more cooling if I want to get to that 4.1 Ghz. mark... or beyond.


----------



## Smykster

Okay it's finally done! First of, a shot of the loop itself, then we have a pic of my max temps after a few runs of IBT on air(74c), followed by a shot of temps after wcing with them same OC(55c). 20 degree overall difference. I also bought an XSPC Razor 5870 waterblock with the loop as well. Staying nice and cool.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda;11970742*
> Just ordered the XSPC kit and discovered this thread. I'm sure all the information I need is in here so I apologize for the lack of searching but I do have a couple of questions.
> 
> -I will be installing this kit in my Cooler Master Storm Scout. Based off this picture, I'd like to duplicate this setup, Unless there is a better setup for this case.
> View attachment 189434
> 
> -I've been reading it is recommended to flush the loop before installing it. I imagine this is done outside of the case, correct? Also, what is the best "flushing" method and what should I use?
> *Flush the radiator by putting a 1/2 distilled vinegar and 1/2 warm/hot water mix in it and shaking vigorously a few times till all the sediment is out of it*
> 
> -Again, with the lack of research before I purchased, I bought the kit with Feser UV Acid Green coolant. Jeff from FrozenCPU.com said this coolant will work just fine but I've read here that Feser Ultra Pure water is the way to go with the help of additives. Am I at any risk or disadvantage running the UV Acid green coolant?
> *THROW AWAY THE COOLANT OR RETURN IT! DO NOT USE IT! only run distilled water and a kill coil or PT nuke in your loop. Feser has been known to cause pump damage by blocking up the pump from breaking down which will most certainly happen.*
> - How do I prevent or remove air bubbles?
> *remove air bubbles by tapping or shaking the case after filling it up with water. As the bubbles disperse the res and loop, you'll need to add more water until you reach right under the top of the res.*
> -Last but not least, any words of wisdom or tricks for installing this kit. Possibly some decent youtube tutorial videos out there? I'd search but youtube is blocked at work. Thanks for reading!
> *Theres really no need for tutorials lol. Basically remember that if you're looking at the barb side of the res/pump, the rightmost barb is your pump's OUTLET and the upper left one is the pumps INLET. Keep this in mind and run the OUTLET to your cpu block's INLET(stated on the block itself) then from the OUTLET of the cpu block to the radiator(does not have any markings to distinguish inlet and outlet on radiator) then from radiator to the INLET (high left side) of reservoir.*
> One more thing. I occasionally attend LAN parties and I often transport my PC. Am I taking a HUGE risk doing so with a water loop? Should I drain the coolant before hand?


*just make sure to tighten down the cap, and if you have a ton of distilled water you can drain but keep in mind you'll have bubbles in the loop once again upon refilling. Always happens, cant get around it lol*


----------



## logan666

which is the inlet and outlet on res?? the top right is the outlet yeh??? and bottom left is inlet???


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11972863*
> which is the inlet and outlet on res?? the top right is the outlet yeh??? and bottom left is inlet???


The fitting connected straight to the pump is outlet, the inlet goes into the lower one on the res


----------



## kingofyo1




----------



## Metalcrack

I don't have a temp problem, but these prices and this thread is going to be bad for my wallet. 240 looks nice for my NZXT Beta Evo!


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalcrack;11972962*
> I don't have a temp problem, but these prices and this thread is going to be bad for my wallet. 240 looks nice for my NZXT Beta Evo!


Hey you can't think of it like that, gotta just say 'hey this is the same cost as a Night Out with friends'. Keeps the excuses flowing for buying more (un)neccesary parts


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11972863*
> which is the inlet and outlet on res?? the top right is the outlet yeh??? and bottom left is inlet???


the part with the silver piece protruding from the res is the outlet.


----------



## Klaufi

Hey guys, 
I'm looking for some suggestions on fan position..

I'm getting the Rs360 and will be mounting the radtior internally on the top of my 3R Systems R910 case..










Currently i have one 120mm fan in the front bottom sucking in air, one 120mm below the psu sucking out, and my psu and gtx460 blowing out..

Wouldnt the best soloution be three fans below the radiotor "pulling"?

Would i lose much if i would put the fans on top of the radiator in a push setting?

I want the fans on top (sitting between the case and rad) for the looks of it (mod contest) looks better when looking on top of the case, and i'm trying to skip buying 3 more fans to do a push/pull setup..

So one bottom front sucking in, 3 top blowing in(push or pull setup) and then the gpu and psufan plus the rear 120mm blowing out, does it sound ok?

Since i'm asking, do i gain that much with push/pull at low ambient temps?


----------



## Elite-

Finally decided to take pictures of my rig with the XSPC Rasa Kit installed. Add me!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elite-;11974422*
> Finally decided to take pictures of my rig with the XSPC Rasa Kit installed. Add me!


GRRRR, i hate image shack, you have to click to many damn times just to see the pictures.

Nice rig by the way.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smykster;11972031*
> Okay it's finally done! First of, a shot of the loop itself, then we have a pic of my max temps after a few runs of IBT on air(74c), followed by a shot of temps after wcing with them same OC(55c). 20 degree overall difference. I also bought an XSPC Razor 5870 waterblock with the loop as well. Staying nice and cool.


NICE!!! Now... exchange that HDT-S1283 you show in your sig for the new hardware installed!


----------



## Elite-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11974477*
> GRRRR, i hate image shack, you have to click to many damn times just to see the pictures.
> 
> Nice rig by the way.


Thanks


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elite-;11974844*
> Thanks


I wanted an 800D, but I was really put off by the plainness of it and the price.
I like my Phantom, it has alot of style to it. I find the 800D a little too simplistic for me.

Plus i want to do this to my side panel
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/9254/img0408n.jpg

source:
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/907952-nzxt-phantom-window-alternative.html


----------



## Elite-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11974868*
> I wanted an 800D, but I was really put off by the plainness of it and the price.
> I like my Phantom, it has alot of style to it. I find the 800D a little too simplistic for me.
> 
> Plus i want to do this to my side panel
> http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/9254/img0408n.jpg
> 
> source:
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/907952-nzxt-phantom-window-alternative.html


I also like the Phantom, its a pretty sweet case. The white just makes it look really good. You set your rig up just perfect it looks really nice.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elite-;11974893*
> I also like the Phantom, its a pretty sweet case. The white just makes it look really good. You set your rig up just perfect it looks really nice.


which picture are you looking at? lol. i don't remember putting my phantom pictures up on OCN, they are on my facebook though.

My case is the black version.


----------



## Elite-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11974903*
> which picture are you looking at? lol. i don't remember putting my phantom pictures up on OCN, they are on my facebook though.
> 
> My case is the black version.


Ohh wow I miss read your post lol. I thought those were your pictures of your phantom you posted.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11974868*
> I wanted an 800D, but I was really put off by the plainness of it and the price.
> I like my Phantom, it has alot of style to it. I find the 800D a little too simplistic for me.
> 
> Plus i want to do this to my side panel
> http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/9254/img0408n.jpg
> 
> source:
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/907952-nzxt-phantom-window-alternative.html


the 800D is form following function, hence why its simplistic design.


----------



## logan666

heres my temps overclocked and at stock semm ok ???


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elite-;11974968*
> Ohh wow I miss read your post lol. I thought those were your pictures of your phantom you posted.


Oh no, haha. I want to do that to my side panel.










there is mine. Crappy picture, i know.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11975008*
> heres my temps overclocked and at stock semm ok ???


I'm guessing you have your GPUs in the loop to? If that is just your CPU that seems really high for the RX360.


----------



## logan666

yeh its just the cpu


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11975300*
> yeh its just the cpu


I was running cooler with a 750 @ 4.0 with 1.425v when I just had my RS240. With a RS240 and RX120 same overclock and a 5870 I'm running cooler. Double check you have the inlet and exit right on the wb. What TIM are you using? How much and how did you spread it? Have you tried to reseat the wb? Did you tighten the wb all the way or part way? I just looked at you build, it looks like you could be pulling hot air off your GPU's, try flipping your fans to intake.


----------



## logan666

its not the gpus ive got the rad out of the case now and it made no diffrence ???


----------



## logan666

ok ive just turned all fans off on the rad it made no diff in temps at all


----------



## un-nefer

Is the pump actually pumping water around the loop? Do you have a flow meter/indicator?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11975611*
> its not the gpus ive got the rad out of the case now and it made no diffrence ???


When you put the cpu block on, did you tighten each corner a little at a time or one all the way then the next one, ect?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer;11975733*
> Is the pump actually pumping water around the loop? Do you have a flow meter/indicator?


You can pinch the tube too to find out if there is good flow.


----------



## logan666

alil each time is the water in the res meant 2 move at all the water in mine is still as ???


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11975855*
> alil each time is the water in the res meant 2 move at all the water in mine is still as ???


If you pinch the tubing with the pump running, you should here the water force its way through.


----------



## logan666

nope dont hear nothing


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11976132*
> nope dont hear nothing


Can you here the pump, it should make a humming sound


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11976186*
> Can you here the pump, it should make a humming sound


A very soft humming noise. But me, I hear my GPU's caps squeeling away. lol


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11976206*
> A very soft humming noise. But me, I hear my GPU's caps squeeling away. lol


Well quit folding, lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Id say somthing wrong with the pump then might be faulty and flows so low thats why you got bad temps.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11976221*
> Well quit folding, lol


Or get a ATI card, since they don't squeel.
But then I couldn't fold or have stable drivers.








two downsides.


----------



## taftmcintosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11976245*
> Or get a ATI card, since they don't squeel.
> But then I couldn't fold or have stable drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> two downsides.


My drivers are stable, big misconception friend.


----------



## un-nefer

Might also be a blockage in the rad or the block. Did you flush the rad before using it?


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11976245*
> Or get a ATI card, since they don't squeel.
> But then I couldn't fold or have stable drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> two downsides.


If I don't OC my 580 I can't hear the squeal...but if I OC the slightest...it is there.

but I will gladly take that over the last couple years of AMD driver failure I have had


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11976330*
> If I don't OC my 580 I can't hear the squeal...but if I OC the slightest...it is there.
> 
> but I will gladly take that over the last couple years of AMD driver failure I have had


From what I read, Nvidia uses a different style capacitors than AMD/ATI does. I don't mind it, but some days when I'm having a headache. Boy does it make me want to smash things.

I had a bad experience with ATI. And I don't want to go back, I like knowing everything is stable with Nvidia drivers. just how I want it to be.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11976245*
> Or get a ATI card, since they don't squeel.
> But then I couldn't fold or have stable drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> two downsides.


Don't start with the drivers thing, because I don't think ATI/AMD have killed cards with their drivers. But yes folding on them sucks.


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11976353*
> From what I read, Nvidia uses a different style capacitors than AMD/ATI does. I don't mind it, but some days when I'm having a headache. Boy does it make me want to smash things.
> 
> I had a bad experience with ATI. And I don't want to go back, I like knowing everything is stable with Nvidia drivers. just how I want it to be.


I'm with ya


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11976263*
> My drivers are stable, big misconception friend.


Mine are to lol i really havet had any driver issues in a long time and under water my ati card loves 1000mhz/1300mhz.


----------



## taftmcintosh

We are also both from kentucky! But yeah no issues here, and ive been using both brands for many many years.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11977079*
> We are also both from kentucky! But yeah no issues here, and ive been using both brands for many many years.


How much snow did you get here in bardstown looks like 2-3 inches.


----------



## Jonesey I7

So my chit just got delayed, AGAIN. Listed on the UPS site " adverse weather conditions [x] " and the delivery date has disappeared. Everything was suppose to be here tomorrow. :*( And what's even more f'ed up is it's perfect weather in Memphis TN where it's shipping from?!?!

http://beta.weather.com/weather/today/USTN0325


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11977647*
> So my chit just got delayed, AGAIN. Listed on the UPS site " adverse weather conditions [x] " and the delivery date has disappeared. Everything was suppose to be here tomorrow. :*( And what's even more f'ed up is it's perfect weather in Memphis TN where it's shipping from?!?!


It's snowing in 49 states including Hawaii. Maybe that's why?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11977714*
> It's snowing in 49 states including Hawaii. Maybe that's why?


Lol, not here, and not there.... check the link.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11977714*
> It's snowing in 49 states including Hawaii. Maybe that's why?


hehe, it is snowing like crazy here. Drifting time for me.









94' bravada
AWD for the win. I love the snow with my car. It may be a junker, but it is a master drifting machine on snow.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11977763*
> hehe, it is snowing like crazy here. Drifting time for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 94' bravada
> AWD for the win. I love the snow with my car. It may be a junker, but it is a master drifting machine on snow.


Same here.
But RWD for the win








I love my truck. But it does become kind of scary when you have little weight in the back


----------



## Kahbrohn

Only drifting I'll be doing this weekend is mowing the lawn... sheeezzzz... wives and their honey-do lists....


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11977821*
> Same here.
> But RWD for the win
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my truck. But it does become kind of scary when you have little weight in the back


I am completely put off by RWD, it sucks in snow.

My car I can floor the car from a dead stand still and go in a straight line, and barely have to touch the steering wheel.

plus with RWD you can't do this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=rCghztqc2M0#t=72s


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11977889*
> I am completely put off by RWD, it sucks in snow.
> 
> My car I can floor the car from a dead stand still and go in a straight line, and barely have to touch the steering wheel.
> 
> plus with RWD you can't do this.


Oh no. Trust me. I know it sucks.
But it's easy to drift, if you know how to control it with the gas.
Brakes aren't worth two sense in snow.

& that's true. That does make me jelly. But I have just as much fun


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11977930*
> Oh no. Trust me. I know it sucks.
> But it's easy to drift, if you know how to control it with the gas.
> Brakes aren't worth two sense in snow.
> 
> & that's true. That does make me jelly. But I have just as much fun


yea you can't use brakes in snow, and i know RWD can have fun, but you just don't get that joy of having your front tires pulling on you, gives you a different kind of control.


----------



## logan666

i redid my loop this time went res-rad-cpu-res temps are still the same not alil worse i dont know wats wrong with this maybe the pumps ****ed but im about 2 put the h70 bk in


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Sounds lke you got a faulty pump contact xspc they are good about replacing stuff from other members that had issues.


----------



## mbudden

Wait. So what's going on? I just read a few pages back you have a little bit of rattling. What's the problem?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11978691*
> Wait. So what's going on? I just read a few pages back you have a little bit of rattling. What's the problem?


His temps suck big time, he rerouted his loop, his temps still suck big time. He's putting the h70 back on









I personally think he has mad air that isn't let out, or a terrible mount on the cpu with too much/little t.i.m.

Just ask Bal3wolf how many times he had to remount to get it right. And how long it took to get all the air out, EVEN WHEN you think it's all out.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11978733*
> His temps suck big time, he rerouted his loop, his temps still suck big time. He's putting the h70 back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally think he has mad air that isn't let out, or a terrible mount on the cpu with too much/little t.i.m.
> 
> Just ask Bal3wolf how many times he had to remount to get it right. And how long it took to get all the air out, EVEN WHEN you think it's all out.


Yea but dont thk thats his problem cause he pinches the tubing and say it feels like no flow so sounds like the pump is screwed.

One more thing tho the molex make sure the wires are in spots for 12 volts not 5.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11978657*
> Sounds lke you got a faulty pump contact xspc they are good about replacing stuff from other members that had issues.


wow, another faulty pump, what the heckityheck


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11978657*
> Sounds lke you got a faulty pump contact xspc they are good about replacing stuff from other members that had issues.


they sent me a new pump without question and i didn't have to send back the old pump, or pay for the new one.


----------



## taftmcintosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11977615*
> How much snow did you get here in bardstown looks like 2-3 inches.


In booneville ive got about 6 inches of snow, and still snowing at the moment. It stays on here in the mountains.


----------



## logan666

my temps are no better than my h70 i had


----------



## logan666

ive got the pump connected to a molex on the psu ??


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11978772*
> In booneville ive got about 6 inches of snow, and still snowing at the moment. It stays on here in the mountains.


dang it stoped here about 2pm.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11978800*
> ive got the pump connected to a molex on the psu ??


make sure the pump wires are connected to the black and yellow wires from the PSU and not the black and red wires.

You should email XSPC and tell them your pump is getting little to no flow, they will send you out a new pump pronto. my replacement pump arrived in less then 2 days.


----------



## taftmcintosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11978780*
> my temps are no better than my h70 i had


My 240 rs kit performs waaaay better than the h70 it cant be working correctly or you have tons of bubbles in the loop


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11978826*
> make sure the pump wires are connected to the black and yellow wires from the PSU and not the black and red wires.
> 
> You should email XSPC and tell them your pump is getting little to no flow, they will send you out a new pump pronto. my replacement pump arrived in less then 2 days.


This^^^

The red wire on the molex harness is 5.5v. I heard this pump don't like running under 7v. The yellow is 12v.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;11978733*
> His temps suck big time, he rerouted his loop, his temps still suck big time. He's putting the h70 back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally think he has mad air that isn't let out, or a terrible mount on the cpu with too much/little t.i.m.
> 
> Just ask Bal3wolf how many times he had to remount to get it right. And how long it took to get all the air out, EVEN WHEN you think it's all out.


Hopefully he applied TIM very lightly and not much. Having either too little or too much will cause bad temps. Not to mention having a bad mount will do that as well. I know you know that, but yeah.

What TIM are you using? If you're using the stuff that came with the kit. It's not the greatest TIM in the world.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11978759*
> Yea but dont thk thats his problem cause he pinches the tubing and say it feels like no flow so sounds like the pump is screwed.
> 
> One more thing tho the molex make sure the wires are in spots for 12 volts not 5.


Hmm. He doesn't have to pinch the tubing to feel it vibrating which indicated flow. Hopefully he's touching the write tube coming out of the loop. It should be vibrating indicating there is flow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11978760*
> wow, another faulty pump, what the heckityheck


I'm sure there is always a bad batch.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11978772*
> In booneville ive got about 6 inches of snow, and still snowing at the moment. It stays on here in the mountains.


Got about 4 inches of snow up here in Central PA.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;11978780*
> my temps are no better than my h70 i had


You should have better temps than the H70.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11978826*
> make sure the pump wires are connected to the black and yellow wires from the PSU and not the black and red wires.
> 
> You should email XSPC and tell them your pump is getting little to no flow, they will send you out a new pump pronto. my replacement pump arrived in less then 2 days.


What he said.

Just contact XSPC and let them know and they will send you a new one. From all the people that had to get a replacement, I've heard nothing but good things about their CS. Yes. It's a PITA. But hey, it happens sometimes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11978829*
> My 240 rs kit performs waaaay better than the h70 it cant be working correctly or you have tons of bubbles in the loop


Bubbles are a PITA and are not avoidable, unless you prefill and use disconnects.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11978848*
> This^^^
> 
> The red wire on the molex harness is 5.5v. I heard this pump don't like running under 7v. The yellow is 12v.


I think (I think) I had this exact problem, my pump just stopped running a week ago, I unplugged it, and made sure it was plugged in properly









Now it's running fine no problems


----------



## logan666

wot wires on th psu theres on the molex connectors???


----------



## wermad




----------



## logan666

ive pluged in the molex connector on the res it has 2 cables goin 2 the molex harness a blue and red 1 ive got it pluged straight into the long flat black modular cablre from the psu???


----------



## Kick

molex would fit one way unless u jam it in...so why mention the molex problem? im sure he has enough common sense to put it in right.

EDIT:

Btw, putting the 1156 backplate onto the ASUS p67 mobo ( i think all of the p8p67 versions ) isnt do able without taking the springs out of the screws which would influence the tension and create pretty bad temps. the mounting and backplate on the p67 would screw up the backplate.

either need longer screws or take the springs out.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;11979126*
> molex would fit one way unless u jam it in...so why mention the molex problem? im sure he has enough common sense to put it in right.


Because some people have had the wires pulled out and put them back in the wrong spot putting the pump in 5v instead of 12.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11979144*
> Because some people have had the wires pulled out and put them back in the wrong spot putting the pump in 5v instead of 12.


This^^^


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11979144*
> Because some people have had the wires pulled out and put them back in the wrong spot putting the pump in 5v instead of 12.


This.

Mine wasn't in very securely. I actually had to pull the pin out and pry the little metal things open a bit more.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11979212*
> This.
> 
> Mine wasn't in very securely. I actually had to pull the pin out and pry the little metal things open a bit more.


why I convert mine to 3-pin fan connector, plus I can hook it up to a controller to vary the speed and thus noise. I did the same for my DDC 3.2.


----------



## mbudden




----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11979318*
> Interesting. For a second there I thought you had meant that you hooked it via 3pin fan connector to your mobo. >.<


You could lol the pump does not draw alot the startup draw on it tho might be to much.


----------



## wermad

you could do that, the mb is design to accept 3 (or 4 pwm) connectors. I like my fan controller, I have all fans hooked up and can just switch to 7v to run in silent mode


----------



## fr0st.

@ mbud on last page.

M-m-m-m-multi post!

Sorry, I couldn't resist









I hope I don't get a bad batch with my pump, I'm ordering from US to Aus so RMA organisation would be a hassle. I'm sure there's a Oceania rep for XSPC, somewhere...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


@ mbud on last page.

M-m-m-m-multi post!

Sorry, I couldn't resist









I hope I don't get a bad batch with my pump, I'm ordering from US to Aus so RMA organisation would be a hassle. I'm sure there's a Oceania rep for XSPC, somewhere...


just email XSPC they ship out of hong kong, which is closer to you then they are to the US, so they should send you a new pump no problem. plus it is free and you get to keep the old pump to mess with.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


just email XSPC they ship out of hong kong, which is closer to you then they are to the US, so they should send you a new pump no problem. plus it is free and you get to keep the old pump to mess with.


Cool-cool. (Yes, double cool.)
Thanks for the info


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


Cool-cool. (Yes, double cool.)
Thanks for the info










yea i got my kit with a cracked pump, so i emailed and they mailed me one, it took just under 48 hours from the time it was scanned in hong kong.
picture for reference to my cracked pump.


----------



## fr0st.

Nice. That's pretty good customer support.
I had to RMA my 5970 3(!!!!!) times, I had to pay for shipping each time. It's a fairly big box...

'least XSPC let me fiddle around with the broken part









Oh, and I almost forgot, What's the best way to check the flow without a flow meter on non see-through tubing?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11980089*
> Nice. That's pretty good customer support.
> I had to RMA my 5970 3(!!!!!) times, I had to pay for shipping each time. It's a fairly big box...
> 
> 'least XSPC let me fiddle around with the broken part


well if you look at the paper in the box when you get the replacement, it says the cost is 20 dollars for the pump, so for them it isn't worth it to make you send them one back, just easier to send a new one to you. they would lose money if they had to pay for more then that. they also have no use for a broken pump anyway, can't really fix it since the acrylic is sealed.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11980102*
> well if you look at the paper in the box when you get the replacement, it says the cost is 20 dollars for the pump, so for them it isn't worth it to make you send them one back, just easier to send a new one to you. they would lose money if they had to pay for more then that. they also have no use for a broken pump anyway, can't really fix it since the acrylic is sealed.


Ahhhhh, true.
Smart cookie this one. Pay attention kids.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11980106*
> Ahhhhh, true.
> Smart cookie this one. Pay attention kids.


haha, thanks. I am actually going to use that extra pump i have since it works just fine with an H50 mod i have. going to add it to the h50 loop to see if that increases performance, along with a second h50 rad in the loop too. will be interesting.


----------



## fr0st.

I really should rep you...
You did help me...
like 5 times...

+rep for you, my good sir!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11980151*
> I really should rep you...
> You did help me...
> like 5 times...
> 
> +rep for you, my good sir!


glad I could be of service.









listen up now children:teaching:

haha i wanted to do that.


----------



## fr0st.

Haha, good times.

I really do with that the 5970 block would get a move on and get back to Jab-Tech so I can buy it cheaper becuase it's pre-owned, but I hate to e-mail people constantly.

-Is it in yet?
-Is it?
-Huh, is it?
-Common, tell me.


----------



## wermad

you talking about the xspc 5970 block?


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11980275*
> you talking about the xspc 5970 block?


Yessir. Why?.... *stares*


----------



## wermad

yeah, jab-tech had that thing for $70, I haven't seen in a while, so I was thinking it was on clearance. Its not even listed and to have a email sent with stock notification. I've seen quite a few used 5970 blocks from a few manufacturers in the fs thread.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11980367*
> yeah, jab-tech had that thing for $70, I haven't seen in a while, so I was thinking it was on clearance. Its not even listed and to have a email sent with stock notification. I've seen quite a few used 5970 blocks from a few manufacturers in the fs thread.


Yeah I e-mailed John himself, he said the last one they were stocking was sold to someone that didn't want it or something, he was a little vague on the reason. He said they were sending it back and depending on the condition he would sell it to me with a lower price, I said that whatever the price was on the site was fine. That was end of December. Still waiting >.>


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11980394*
> Yeah I e-mailed John himself, he said the last one they were stocking was sold to someone that didn't want it or something, he was a little vague on the reason. He said they were sending it back and depending on the condition he would sell it to me with a lower price, I said that whatever the price was on the site was fine. That was end of December. Still waiting >.>


Maybe he got it back and it waset in good shape to resell. Might re email him to see and look at another place to get one.


----------



## fr0st.

Yeah I was just aiming to buy everything from the one place, and Jab's have pretty darn cheap prices.

How's the Heatkiller block, anyone know?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

for cpu they are suppose to be some of the best but the ek supreme is the best and the rasa blocks are close to each no worse then a few C. If i was you id get a ek 5970 block i love mine on my 5870 works great and yea jab has great prices and with the coupon code facebook their even better.


----------



## Kick

anybody reported running the rasa block with SB yet?
curious to see how they mounted the block on due to backplate issues


----------



## fr0st.

I meant for the 5970, not the CPU.

Okay, so, just so I know. What's a good static pressure?
1mm, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm/h2o. I know 4 is the best but which is reasonable. My R4's (90CFM ones, not 69) have 3mm/h2o. My Tri-Cools have a little less then that, is that okay?


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda*


Just ordered the XSPC kit and discovered this thread. I'm sure all the information I need is in here so I apologize for the lack of searching but I do have a couple of questions.

-I will be installing this kit in my Cooler Master Storm Scout. Based off this picture, I'd like to duplicate this setup, Unless there is a better setup for this case.
Attachment 189434
-I've been reading it is recommended to flush the loop before installing it. I imagine this is done outside of the case, correct? Also, what is the best "flushing" method and what should I use?

-Again, with the lack of research before I purchased, I bought the kit with Feser UV Acid Green coolant. Jeff from FrozenCPU.com said this coolant will work just fine but I've read here that Feser Ultra Pure water is the way to go with the help of additives. Am I at any risk or disadvantage running the UV Acid green coolant?

- How do I prevent or remove air bubbles?

-Last but not least, any words of wisdom or tricks for installing this kit. Possibly some decent youtube tutorial videos out there? I'd search but youtube is blocked at work. Thanks for reading!

One more thing. I occasionally attend LAN parties and I often transport my PC. Am I taking a HUGE risk doing so with a water loop? Should I drain the coolant before hand?


No need to drain the loop before transporting, reason for mounting the radiator outside was the there isn't enough space to mount it up top (between mobo top and case top) for the radiator and fans.

Go with colour tubing and pure distilled water + kill coil, but feser clear will work









Will add the drill size and grommet size pictures when i get home.

Cheers


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


anybody reported running the rasa block with SB yet?
curious to see how they mounted the block on due to backplate issues


Backplate issues?

Doesn't 1155 use the same mounting hole size as the 1156?










think there is a youtube video in the news section from 2 days ago









Should be the same as a lynfield mount


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DullBoi*


Backplate issues?

Doesn't 1155 use the same mounting hole size as the 1156?










think there is a youtube video in the news section from 2 days ago









Should be the same as a lynfield mount


It def is the same


----------



## Kick

its same hole, but due to the stock backplate on my asus p67 pro mobo, it interferes with the 1156 backplate for the rasa block.

only way i got my block onto my cpu was to take the springs out of the screws- which i am sure made my temps worst, but at least the block is on it...


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


its same hole, but due to the stock backplate on my asus p67 pro mobo, it interferes with the 1156 backplate for the rasa block.

only way i got my block onto my cpu was to take the springs out of the screws- which i am sure made my temps worst, but at least the block is on it...


See if you could half/3/4 cut those springs with a wire cutter to improve pressure


----------



## fr0st.

I feel like I'm missing something... (besides a 5970 waterblock







)


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


I meant for the 5970, not the CPU.


Koolertek has the xspc 5970 block for $69

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...e-204p2317.htm


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


I feel like I'm missing something... (besides a 5970 waterblock







)




Just 2 fittings? the barbed fittings they come with (qty 6) will all be 7/16


----------



## mxthunder

Hey guys, I just ordered this kit, it will be my first water cooling experience. 
Just had a quick question. After reading through many pages of this thread, I read that you have to clean out all the components before installation, even when they are new. Is this true, and how should I clean them out? With soap and water?


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


Hey guys, I just ordered this kit, it will be my first water cooling experience. 
Just had a quick question. After reading through many pages of this thread, I read that you have to clean out all the components before installation, even when they are new. Is this true, and how should I clean them out? With soap and water?


It's really only the radiator. I suggest using a 50/50 mixture of boiling water and vinegar. Pour it into the radiator so it's about 1/2 full, then reseal the end caps using the little white plugs that come with it. Then pick up the radiator with oven mitts on (as it will get VERY hot) and shake it quickly. Then after about 30 seconds drain it all into the sink.

You just want to remove any flux and machine oils left over from the manufacturing process.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


I feel like I'm missing something... (besides a 5970 waterblock







)



If you mean that you received the kit and do not see the silver coil, look for what appears to be a loose piece of cardboard. It looks more like it was just thrown in there. It will be taped on one side while the other side is the fold of the carton.

I actually threw it out thinking it was a filler or something. When I saw it was missing, I thought of that cardboard and looked for it and there it was.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


Just 2 fittings? the barbed fittings they come with (qty 6) will all be 7/16


I thought the kit came with the types of barbs I ordered (six of them) and 7/16th tubing to give an ultra tight seal. Anyone confirm/deny this?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


If you mean that you received the kit and do not see the silver coil, look for what appears to be a loose piece of cardboard. It looks more like it was just thrown in there. It will be taped on one side while the other side is the fold of the carton.

I actually threw it out thinking it was a filler or something. When I saw it was missing, I thought of that cardboard and looked for it and there it was.


Oh, no. That's my shopping cart. I have the inkling I'm missing something so I wanted to get a double check from someone here on OCN.


----------



## kingofyo1

it comes with 6 1/2" barbs. 2 for res, 2 for rad and 2 for cpu. Also comes with 10ft (i think) of 7/16 clear tubing


----------



## DullBoi

7/16 to fit real snug onto the 1/2"


----------



## taftmcintosh

I literally cant pull this tubing off the barbs, its on there so tight i have to cut it off to remove.


----------



## kingofyo1

I have to wrangle with it to get it off, and its primochill 7/16 which is kinda looser than the 7/16 stock stuff, and even then i have to usually chop it off >.<


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11982748*
> I literally cant pull this tubing off the barbs, its on there so tight i have to cut it off to remove.


lightly apply a heat gun or a hair dryer on low setting to soften up the tube.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliehorse55;11982319*
> It's really only the radiator. I suggest using a 50/50 mixture of boiling water and vinegar. Pour it into the radiator so it's about 1/2 full, then reseal the end caps using the little white plugs that come with it. Then pick up the radiator with oven mitts on (as it will get VERY hot) and shake it quickly. Then after about 30 seconds drain it all into the sink.
> 
> You just want to remove any flux and machine oils left over from the manufacturing process.


thank you!


----------



## ELPCU

O.C.ing to 4.2ghz... I wants 4.4~4.5.. but I think I need to spend some time to do this.


----------



## sgilmore62

Got an OCZ RAM cooler today, one of the blue led's doesn't work. Matches my XSPC Rasa kit though lol.


----------



## Blameless

I've had my RX360 kit for a few days now, and I'm having some issues:

CPU temps are not as good as I was expecting. They are less than 10C better than the NH-D14 that was on here before. Could this be due to loss of flow from the addition of a MCW80 GPU block? I realize the MCW80 is known to be restrictive, but I would have thought the pump could have handled the addition of a single one better.

Pump is still noisy. It's not horribly loud, but it's a distinct and annoying sound, like a fan with a bad ball bearing. Could bubbles be causing this particular sound, or is the pump junk?

Also, overall build quality of the components in this kit seem mediocre. The radiator is very delicate, and any time anything harder than plastic touches it, some paint comes off. Additionally, it only came with four screws to mount the RAD, and the heads on them were so small that they were barely holding the RAD in place. I had to go digging for a dozen more usable screws to get it secured to my liking. The socket 1366 mounting hardware is disappointing as well. The back plate doesn't even fit on my board (I'm using one from a TRUE) and the screws used to tighten the WB don't move smoothly, even with only a little compression on the spring.


----------



## taftmcintosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;11986055*
> I've had my RX360 kit for a few days now, and I'm having some issues:
> 
> CPU temps are not as good as I was expecting. They are less than 10C better than the NH-D14 that was on here before. Could this be due to loss of flow from the addition of a MCW80 GPU block? I realize the MCW80 is known to be restrictive, but I would have thought the pump could have handled the addition of a single one better.
> 
> Pump is still noisy. It's not horribly loud, but it's a distinct and annoying sound, like a fan with a bad ball bearing. Could bubbles be causing this particular sound, or is the pump junk?
> 
> Also, overall build quality of the components in this kit seem mediocre. The radiator is very delicate, and any time anything harder than plastic touches it, some paint comes off. Additionally, it only came with four screws to mount the RAD, and the heads on them were so small that they were barely holding the RAD in place. I had to go digging for a dozen more usable screws to get it secured to my liking. The socket 1366 mounting hardware is disappointing as well. The back plate doesn't even fit on my board (I'm using one from a TRUE) and the screws used to tighten the WB don't move smoothly, even with only a little compression on the spring.


What are your current temps? Is the oc in your signature the one your currently using? The pumps when working correctly are nearly silent, if its noisy chances are you have tons of bubbles or its not working correctly. Bad pumps are easily replaced by them, and it is an entry level water cooling kit after all. The actual hardware performs well when setup correctly.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11986342*
> What are your current temps? Is the oc in your signature the one your currently using? The pumps when working correctly are nearly silent, if its noisy chances are you have tons of bubbles or its not working correctly. Bad pumps are easily replaced by them, and it is an entry level water cooling kit after all. The actual hardware performs well when setup correctly.


My pump isn't slient, but it works good and gives great flow. Wonder if i have a bad pump.


----------



## ELPCU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;11986055*
> I've had my RX360 kit for a few days now, and I'm having some issues:
> 
> CPU temps are not as good as I was expecting. They are less than 10C better than the NH-D14 that was on here before. Could this be due to loss of flow from the addition of a MCW80 GPU block? I realize the MCW80 is known to be restrictive, but I would have thought the pump could have handled the addition of a single one better.
> 
> Pump is still noisy. It's not horribly loud, but it's a distinct and annoying sound, like a fan with a bad ball bearing. Could bubbles be causing this particular sound, or is the pump junk?
> 
> Also, overall build quality of the components in this kit seem mediocre. The radiator is very delicate, and any time anything harder than plastic touches it, some paint comes off. Additionally, it only came with four screws to mount the RAD, and the heads on them were so smal
> l that they were barely holding the RAD in place. I had to go digging for a dozen more usable screws to get it secured to my liking. The socket 1366 mounting hardware is disappointing as well. The back plate doesn't even fit on my board (I'm using one from a TRUE) and the screws used to tighten the WB don't move smoothly, even with only a little compression on the spring.


I doubt bubbles

I am using RASA kit(but changed hose to 1/2" ID), cooling 5850, and having 3 90 degree turns. My full-load temp at 4ghz differs 20~25C degree than my old H50. Yes, NH-D14 is better than H50, but still. I think temp should be better.


----------



## ELPCU

Oh, I also had 12 screws for my rad. RX360 kits


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELPCU;11986418*
> Oh, I also had 12 screws for my rad. RX360 kits


I'll post up my temps for blameless to see. I feel like my RX360 kit performs admirably.

I'll edit my post with the results of 20 passes of IBT with High memory selected.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliehorse55;11982319*
> It's really only the radiator. I suggest using a 50/50 mixture of boiling water and vinegar. Pour it into the radiator so it's about 1/2 full, then reseal the end caps using the little white plugs that come with it. Then pick up the radiator with oven mitts on (as it will get VERY hot) and shake it quickly. Then after about 30 seconds drain it all into the sink.
> 
> You just want to remove any flux and machine oils left over from the manufacturing process.


Best suggestion! I followed it this afternoon and.........








[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Either metal shavings or steel wool debris... Clean it out a couple times.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;11986055*
> I've had my RX360 kit for a few days now, and I'm having some issues:
> 
> CPU temps are not as good as I was expecting. They are less than 10C better than the NH-D14 that was on here before. Could this be due to loss of flow from the addition of a MCW80 GPU block? I realize the MCW80 is known to be restrictive, but I would have thought the pump could have handled the addition of a single one better.
> 
> Pump is still noisy. It's not horribly loud, but it's a distinct and annoying sound, like a fan with a bad ball bearing. Could bubbles be causing this particular sound, or is the pump junk?
> 
> Also, overall build quality of the components in this kit seem mediocre. The radiator is very delicate, and any time anything harder than plastic touches it, some paint comes off. Additionally, it only came with four screws to mount the RAD, and the heads on them were so small that they were barely holding the RAD in place. I had to go digging for a dozen more usable screws to get it secured to my liking. The socket 1366 mounting hardware is disappointing as well. The back plate doesn't even fit on my board (I'm using one from a TRUE) and the screws used to tighten the WB don't move smoothly, even with only a little compression on the spring.


Id say bad mount or air or pump not working right i dont have a full rx360 kit but i have the rasa block and rx360 rad cooling my cpu and gpu cpu at 4.2ghz never passes 70c on ibt and gpu never passes 40c on the core and in low 50s on vrms.


----------



## wermad

hmmm, I just flushed my rx360 with a bit of distilled when I got it, pretty much clean all the way through


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11986947*
> hmmm, I just flushed my rx360 with a bit of distilled when I got it, pretty much clean all the way through


It really depends. It seems to be total luck as to whether you get a nice clean radiator or a dirty flux filled one.


----------



## wermad

actually, the three RS360 in my previous build and the RX360 were all very clean...got all of them from Jab-tech


----------



## sgilmore62

I didn't filter the water when emptying out the rinse water to see if mine had anything in it. Heres a ss of 4.3 @1.375V with a 5970 in the loop.

Blameless are you talking about "only" 10C minimum idle temps lower or 100% load 10C lower? I had a Noctua also and my idle temps are "only" about 10C lower but my load temps are much better. It's all about the load temps.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11986342*
> What are your current temps?


Loading in the upper 70s C. Ambient is about 25C right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11986342*
> Is the oc in your signature the one your currently using?


Yes, though I'm making some adjustments as it's not stable anymore (I think less air flow over the board is causing issues). NH-D14 did keep the system stable at these settings, even though the CPU was 8-10C warmer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11986342*
> The pumps when working correctly are nearly silent, if its noisy chances are you have tons of bubbles or its not working correctly. Bad pumps are easily replaced by them, and it is an entry level water cooling kit after all.


This one definitely isn't silent, even after isolating it from any other potential sources of vibration (I can hold it in my hand and it makes the same grinding noise).

Should I contact XSPC directly for a replacement?


----------



## taftmcintosh

Other people have had replacements shipped to them free of charge without even having to return the pump in some cases. I suggest you take a look at that.


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;11987633*
> Loading in the upper 70s C. Ambient is about 25C right now.
> 
> Should I contact XSPC directly for a replacement?


Those temperatures are crap, probably cause by a bad pump. Contact XSPC directly for a replacement. It should sound like this:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW4qHp-w17k[/ame]


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;11987254*
> Blameless are you talking about "only" 10C minimum idle temps lower or 100% load 10C lower? I had a Noctua also and my idle temps are "only" about 10C lower but my load temps are much better. It's all about the load temps.


My idle temps are actually about 20C lower (and I realize they don't mean much).

Load temps are only 8-10C lower.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taftmcintosh;11987660*
> Other people have had replacements shipped to them free of charge without even having to return the pump in some cases. I suggest you take a look at that.


Replacements from who, XSPC direct?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;11987691*
> My idle temps are actually about 20C lower (and I realize they don't mean much).
> 
> Load temps are only 8-10C lower.
> 
> Replacements from who, XSPC direct?


Yes, just go the website and contact CS and they will mail one right out.

I got mine in under 48 hours from the time it was scanned in hong kong.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliehorse55;11987662*
> Those temperatures are crap, probably cause by a bad pump. Contact XSPC directly for a replacement. It should sound like this:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW4qHp-w17k


Thanks for the recording.

Mine still as some bubbles around it (and probably in it), but the noise is reminiscent of a muffled coffee grinder, so it's probably broken.

Oddly enough, even though the CPU temps are not good, my GPU temps are great. I'm loading at 60C (in FurMark/OCCT) with 1.138v and 900MHz on my GTX 480. So, im not entirely sure the pump is responsible for temperatures.

I guess I'll find out when I get a replacement.


----------



## GoodInk

Good pump

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VixuxaOLHBs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VixuxaOLHBs"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VixuxaOLHBs[/ame[/URL]]

Bad pump

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIN9BC-pIh4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIN9BC-pIh4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIN9BC-pIh4[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;11987756*
> Thanks for the recording.
> 
> Mine still as some bubbles around it (and probably in it), but the noise is reminiscent of a muffled coffee grinder, so it's probably broken.
> 
> Oddly enough, even though the CPU temps are not good, my GPU temps are great. I'm loading at 60C (in FurMark/OCCT) with 1.138v and 900MHz on my GTX 480. So, im not entirely sure the pump is responsible for temperatures.
> 
> I guess I'll find out when I get a replacement.


I'd actually expect slightly lower GPU temperatures, maybe 55C load? Was that 60C taken while the CPU was under load as well?


----------



## KGIXXER7

When 100% on both CPU and GPU for many hours, I stay around 68c cpu, and 48c GPU full load.


----------



## thrasherht

you guys keep talking about cleaning out your rad, makes me want to tear down my loop to make sure. agh.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11987846*
> Good pump
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VixuxaOLHBs
> 
> Bad pump
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIN9BC-pIh4


Looks like I've got a bad pump, thanks for the comparison.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliehorse55;11987857*
> I'd actually expect slightly lower GPU temperatures, maybe 55C load? Was that 60C taken while the CPU was under load as well?


11 threads LinX.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11987895*
> you guys keep talking about cleaning out your rad, makes me want to tear down my loop to make sure. agh.


only if your water is not clear or if there is debris in the loop. remove the faceplate off the res and monitor the res while the loop is in full swing.

edit: if your not using dyes/premixed ^^^...if you are, then just check for debris.


----------



## mbudden

You guys go threw threads quick.







I bet there's someone in the past pages I need to add lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11988519*
> You guys go threw threads quick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet there's someone in the past pages I need to add lol


Work harder







it does fly usulay a full 2 pages in a couple hrs.


----------



## KGIXXER7

switch to 40 post's per page


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;11988714*
> switch to 40 post's per page


I have mine on 100 posts to per page i was on 40 and just upped it lol. On another note i tweaked my i7 and got it a little lower vcore on 4300 and 4200.


----------



## mbudden

i like 10 per page. i hate going into some 56k warning threads and someone with 40 posts.... it'd be like ***. lol less loading


----------



## jam3s

mbudden i'm gonna provide a screenshot of my temps for all to see so they can make an informed decision on whether or not they want to invest in the RX360 kit.

Will post up soon, just doing 20 runs of IBT at 3700MB of memory with a Q6600 @ 3.4GHz at 1.4v

EDIT: Here it is!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## kingofyo1

really james? boxxy background? harrumph.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11989585*
> really james? boxxy background? harrumph.


hehehehehe, I love the girl's eye shadow. Me thinks it's hawt


----------



## kingofyo1

*NO! NO! NO!*










edit: P.S.- I could do this all day


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11989702*
> *NO! NO! NO!*
> 
> edit: P.S.- I could do this all day


I know who goes on 4chan.









hey boxxy is hot. don't be hating.


----------



## kingofyo1

only underage for 4 more months btw ^_^ and its memebase.com not 4chan.. /b/ got some messed up stuff  i've learned my lesson on visiting 4chan

listen to this:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16JutKkzXLU[/ame]


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11989844*
> only underage for 4 more months btw ^_^ and its memebase.com not 4chan.. /b/ got some messed up stuff  i've learned my lesson on visiting 4chan


haha, I want her to be my slave. I mean wife


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;11989844*
> only underage for 4 more months btw ^_^ and its memebase.com not 4chan.. /b/ got some messed up stuff  i've learned my lesson on visiting 4chan


LOL. of course.

if you are young, then you should find her hot, she is.

4chan can have some really funny stuff that can be used nicely for posting in threads and making the noobs rage.


----------



## kingofyo1

n00b rage=troll gold!










oand I'm fairly young @ 24


----------



## fr0st.

You all seen the new boxxy vid?
She's not hot anymore.
I died a little inside, even though I never supported her.


----------



## kingofyo1

links nao?

edit: found it, wow.. without drugs and makeup she's really not that much of a coked out skank?


----------



## fr0st.

Yeah she's just a normal person really.

Makes me sad though.


----------



## mbudden

So off topic


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


Yeah she's just a normal person really.

Makes me sad though.


:/ I miss her on drugs. such a fun person back then.. Yeah, kinda saddening. I wonder what happened to her that was so bad? 4chan stalkers wearing guy fawkes masks standing outside her window with signs?

Matt, don't worry.. This is us trying to pass the time until someone actually posts a question we should answer ^^


----------



## fr0st.

True.

I'm probably gonna go with custom loop now, I've persuaded myself to have a 500/550$ budget (including shipping) rather then a 400/450$ one.

I'll still hang around in these parts of the woods, it's good fun here.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


you all seen the new boxxy vid?
She's not hot anymore.
I died a little inside, even though i never supported her.


link!


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11990837*
> True.
> 
> I'm probably gonna go with custom loop now, I've persuaded myself to have a 500/550$ budget (including shipping) rather then a 400/450$ one.
> 
> I'll still hang around in these parts of the woods, it's good fun here.


why not just buy certain parts at a time, like new res and pump to start with, as the xspc rad and block are very good still


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;11990891*
> link!


Boxxy Fanclub in my sig. Last page.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


link!


/watch?v=FZrYDwLjbtE

Edited link. That's the real channel, not an re-upload.

A little question, for mounting a rad to a case through a fan, what screw would be needed?
30mm long M4 screw? Is that long enough/right size?


----------



## logan666

ok guys so most of u know ive been getttin bad temps with my kit ive just done the cpu loop and im gettin around 70 dergrees max on ibt ive recored my pump and uploaded it on utube can u tell me is this how its meant to sound thanks







u mite have to turn ur volume all the way up

  
 You Tube


----------



## mbudden

That's how it should sound. A slight hum. But idk what you did, but it sounded way worse near the end.


----------



## logan666

i put my fone right next to it


----------



## thrasherht

yea that pump is kinda bad, but it should still be pumping.


----------



## wermad

Frost, you getting the xspc 5970 block from Koolertek?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


n00b rage=troll gold!

oand I'm fairly young @ 24


you said you were young, 24 isn't young, how are you not legal?


----------



## logan666

so should i get anther pump ???


----------



## Blameless

Quote:



Originally Posted by *logan666*


ok guys so most of u know ive been getttin bad temps with my kit ive just done the cpu loop and im gettin around 70 dergrees max on ibt ive recored my pump and uploaded it on utube can u tell me is this how its meant to sound thanks







u mite have to turn ur volume all the way up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbIj5ymzcGM


That's exactly how mine sounds.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


if you are young, then you should find her hot, she is.


What would age have to do with it?


----------



## thrasherht

ITS OK.
I have solved the debate once and for all.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


ITS OK.
I have solved the debate once and for all.


Sorry the bot had a few nuts loose when you asked it he came to its senses


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Frost, you getting the xspc 5970 block from Koolertek?


Nope, I'm going to get a bunch of stuff from P-PC's.

THREAD: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...rt-please.html


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


Nope, I'm going to get a bunch of stuff from P-PC's.

THREAD: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...rt-please.html


can't see the pic using my work pc







, ill check it when I get home


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


can't see the pic using my work pc







, ill check it when I get home










Why are you asking?

Thanks for the info links and help


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


Why are you asking?

Thanks for the info links and help










I saw your post about waiting for a block from jab-tech.


----------



## logan666

so wot do u guys think i should do.... get anther pump ???


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I saw your post about waiting for a block from jab-tech.


Thanks for the interest then









Quote:



Originally Posted by *logan666*


so wot do u guys think i should do.... get anther pump ???


Doesn't sound broken to me, just sounds like it's vibrating against your case walls.
Could be wrong though, I've never had that pump so I wouldn't know completely.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *logan666*


so wot do u guys think i should do.... get anther pump ???



I thk its been said mutiple times contact xspc and tell them your pumps not working right and they will ship you a new one.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;11992453*
> I thk its been said mutiple times contact xspc and tell them your pumps not working right and they will ship you a new one.


This.

If you think there is a problem, then ask for a replacement. You could have inquired about getting another one yesterday and you could have had it by early next week. But now since it's Thursday, you'll probably end up getting it by late next week. Contact XSPC and they will send you a replacement pump. It's that simple.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;11990947*
> A little question, for mounting a rad to a case through a fan, what screw would be needed?
> 30mm long M4 screw? Is that long enough/right size?


M4 is too big, M3 is a bit iffy - sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. 6-32 works. I went for 40mm though, because it has to go through the case metal, a 25mm fan and then into the rad.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11994131*
> This.
> 
> If you think there is a problem, then ask for a replacement. You could have inquired about getting another one yesterday and you could have had it by early next week. But now since it's Thursday, you'll probably end up getting it by late next week. Contact XSPC and they will send you a replacement pump. It's that simple.


X2...

But I agree with what Frost said as well. Make sure that what you are hearing is not just the vibration of the pump/res combo against your case. No matter how good a pump is it will always vibrate some. Once you have confirmed this is not the problem then contact XSPC and get a replacement.


----------



## Khaotik55

Can someone tell me if the RX360 rad fits on the inside top of a HAF-932?


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaotik55;11997115*
> Can someone tell me if the RX360 rad fits on the inside top of a HAF-932?


indeed it does. I'm running the RX360 in my HAF 932. You'll be able to do Push/Pull as well


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaotik55;11997115*
> Can someone tell me if the RX360 rad fits on the inside top of a HAF-932?


From what I believe, the HAF 932 allows for a 240 rad. But I have seen people mount a 360 rad on top.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11997162*
> From what I believe, the HAF 932 allows for a 240 rad. But I have seen people mount a 360 rad on top.


360 will fit just fine


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11997162*
> From what I believe, the HAF 932 allows for a 240 rad. But I have seen people mount a 360 rad on top.


922 = 240. Could install a 360 but need to mod quite a bit since one fan would be obstructed. Also, the RX rad would bue a bit of a problem with normal 25mm fans. The fans would be over the RAM. Not sure if you could install FANS (externally)-CASE-RAD (internally) and have sufficient room. I shied away from this idea because I would be pushing rhe hot air off the rad into the case itself.

932 & X = 360


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11997172*
> 360 will fit just fine










thanks for confirming that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11997214*
> 922 = 240. Could install a 360 but need to mod quite a bit since one fan would be obstructed.
> 
> 932 & X = 360


You too. I was under the impression that both the 932 & 922 only allowed the 240. Thanks


----------



## Khaotik55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11997159*
> indeed it does. I'm running the RX360 in my HAF 932. You'll be able to do Push/Pull as well


CPU
Q6600 G0 SLACR 3.4GHz @ 1.4v

Why, why, why... WHY.

I have a P4 heatsink at 1.6V for over a year now, I went back to 3.2GHZ last month but I said screw it and came back, now you're sitting at 1.4v with that setup? Why...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaotik55;11997252*
> cpu
> q6600 g0 slacr 3.4ghz @ 1.4v
> 
> why, why, why... Why.
> 
> I have a p4 heatsink at 1.6v for over a year now, i went back to 3.2ghz last month but i said screw it and came back, now you're sitting at 1.4v with that setup? Why...


xspc rx360 ftw???


----------



## tsm106

Do you guys think a rx120 w/ a GT AP14 can handle a ek FC4890 waterblock? It's just a gpu only block, mcp350 w/ a bp mini tank/res top. I just need to buy some barbs to piece it together from extra gear. From skinnee's review it should handle a 230w to 300w load with a delta range of 10c to 15c. But in real world terms, I've not clue.

Anyone ever run a rx120 with a hot gpu only before?


----------



## Khaotik55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;11997286*
> xspc rx360 ftw???


I'm just curious as to why jam3s is running at a measly 1.4v at 3.4GHZ on his Q6600 when he has an RX360.

I mean GEEZUZ, I run my Q6600 @ 3.6GHZ with 1.6v. Sure it hits 83C during Prime, but you can't break a Q6600.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaotik55;11997318*
> I'm just curious as to why jam3s is running at a measly 1.4v at 3.4GHZ on his Q6600 when he has an RX360.
> 
> I mean GEEZUZ, I run my Q6600 @ 3.6GHZ with 1.6v. Sure it hits 83C during Prime, but you can't break a Q6600.


hehe, I have a brutal board at the moment the Asus P5K. It can't even hold 1.4v while under load.. waiting for my 780i to be shipped to me in hopes that it doesn't have awful vdroop.

I would go higher than 3.6GHz if I could, for now I'm stuck at 3.4Ghz at 1.4v ish


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaotik55;11997318*
> I'm just curious as to why jam3s is running at a measly 1.4v at 3.4GHZ on his Q6600 when he has an RX360.
> 
> I mean GEEZUZ, I run my Q6600 @ 3.6GHZ with 1.6v. Sure it hits 83C during Prime, but you can't break a Q6600.


Ahhh... My bad. I misunderstood! Hehehehe...


----------



## Jonesey I7

Well, my chip finally got here today, but now my board and ram are snowed in. *Go figure* So hopefully tomorrow I can have a functioning pc again, although using an x300 video card and old air cooler until my new water gear comes on the 30th


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;11997403*
> hehe, I have a brutal board at the moment the Asus P5K. It can't even hold 1.4v while under load.. waiting for my 780i to be shipped to me *in hopes that it doesn't have awful vdroop*.
> 
> I would go higher than 3.6GHz if I could, for now I'm stuck at 3.4Ghz at 1.4v ish


I hate to break it to you... but it's really bad. I had the XFX 780i, and I had to pencil mod it to sort out the vDroop. There's no BIOS LLC control so it has to be done with a pencil mod.


----------



## mbudden




----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11999287*
> I hate to break it to you... but it's really bad. I had the XFX 780i, and I had to pencil mod it to sort out the vDroop. There's no BIOS LLC control so it has to be done with a pencil mod.


Lol i tried to talk him outa getting a nforce chipset







he wouldnt listen to me. He shoulda got a p45 and used the sli hack patch.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Lol i tried to talk him outa getting a nforce chipset







he wouldnt listen to me. He shoulda got a p45 and used the sli hack patch.


^^ this


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Im liking water alot lol running 4400mhz now with tight ram timings to running a boinc project right now at 44c tcase and under 61c on the cores.


----------



## dembo1305

So my kit just came on today and it looks like its going to be lots of fun. But are there any things I should do specifically when installing it? I know to make sure and cut the tubing straight. But what about priming the lines nd stuff like that? Also how do you drain it?


----------



## mxthunder

here are some install pics! Thanks for the help everyone! Looks good in my 700D














































sorry for the crappy quality

my temps are pleasing, but I think they could be better, maybe I will try a reseat. 
How tight should I tighten down the finger nuts on the water block? I do have a backplate installed with this kit, but Im still scared!


----------



## KGIXXER7

welcome to the club thunder









I just tightened them till it felt good...sorry no scientific example


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tsm106*


Do you guys think a rx120 w/ a GT AP14 can handle a ek FC4890 waterblock? It's just a gpu only block, mcp350 w/ a bp mini tank/res top. I just need to buy some barbs to piece it together from extra gear. From skinnee's review it should handle a 230w to 300w load with a delta range of 10c to 15c. But in real world terms, I've not clue.

Anyone ever run a rx120 with a hot gpu only before?


you could, but I suspect not good temps, the hd48xx series ran hot. I tried an hd4870x2 on in a single rad and temps were only marginally better than stock.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


here are some install pics! Thanks for the help everyone! Looks good in my 700D

sorry for the crappy quality

my temps are pleasing, but I think they could be better, maybe I will try a reseat. 
How tight should I tighten down the finger nuts on the water block? I do have a backplate installed with this kit, but Im still scared!


Man that tubing looks epic like that, just the clear effect totally fits that case.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Man that tubing looks epic like that, just the clear effect totally fits that case.


I don't know about you, but it looks "cleaner" like that...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I don't know about you, but it looks "cleaner" like that...


I just really like the look of the tubing?


----------



## mxthunder

Thanks guys! I was going to go with some blue coloration, but figured I would just keep it simple for now. I think it looks good like this too, so it may stay that way.


----------



## Garanthor

This is my first post in this forum. I finally made the switch from my H50. I had done just about everything you could to it but I still wasn't happy with my temps. With a 4.020 ghz overclock at 1.5 volts and 20 C ambient my CPU was running 29 C idle and 54-55C max temp after 1 hour of Prime 95. Now with the RASA RX360 and 6 fans in push/pull on my HAF 922, with everything else exactly the same, my temps are 27C idle and 43 C max temp after one hour of Prime 95. Whoo Hooo!! I'm a happy camper. Here are some pics.


----------



## mbudden

Shizzle sticks. I got some adding to do.
I've been slacking. lol


----------



## mbudden

Added some temps + users to the list.
If anyone else wants to feel free to submitting temps w/ screen shot to the list. Feel free







Just take a look at the examples on the OP.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


I hate to break it to you... but it's really bad. I had the XFX 780i, and I had to pencil mod it to sort out the vDroop. There's no BIOS LLC control so it has to be done with a pencil mod.


Vdroop mod it is! I don't mind it. Do you have a linky for the mod?


----------



## Cod2player

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


you could, but I suspect not good temps, the hd48xx series ran hot. I tried an hd4870x2 on in a single rad and temps were only marginally better than stock.


But a 4870x2 is dual GPU...so that's not a good comparison to what hes thinking of running at all







.


----------



## mbudden

If I was to get an ATI card, I think it would be some 4870x2's. I heard they are pretty beast and keep up still to most games.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cod2player*


But a 4870x2 is dual GPU...so that's not a good comparison to what hes thinking of running at all







.


same chipset family. even my single 4870 would idle @ 40c on water. the 48xx series do run hot, ati...I mean amd did a great job with heat and power consumption with the 5xxx and 6xxx. For a hot gpu, a single 120 would only be marginal improvement imo.

edit: the 4890 was clocked higher than the 4870, still hot cards. I remember when I sold my 4870, I ran it stock for a testing before shipping it to its new owner and it spiked to 90Â°. That was with stock clocks, its like running a stock flaming gtx 465/470 on a single rad. not gonna see huge improvements.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

and 4xxx has no dx11 support also not to mention how hot they run.


----------



## jp27

are these good fans to upgrade from my stock xspc kit fans for my RS240?? does rs240 like slow or fast fans??

http://www.svc.com/9g1212h1011.html


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jp27*


are these good fans to upgrade from my stock xspc kit fans for my RS240?? does rs240 like slow or fast fans??

http://www.svc.com/9g1212h1011.html



Those seem expensive... I have stockers on still, but people are always talking about gentle typhoons... Not sure with the fan speed though, usually I'd say high speed with a fan controller is best...


----------



## AMOCO

with the rs rads. u would want fan speed around 1600 to 1800,and with the rx rads you would use high speed fans 2000 and up.


----------



## jp27

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


with the rs rads. u would want fan speed around 1600 to 1800,and with the rx rads you would use high speed fans 2000 and up.


hmm i swear ive read that rx is better with slower fans/?? am i wrong

is rs better with faster fans??


----------



## AMOCO

the reason why rx rads. u would use hi speed fans is because they are thicker that rs rads.


----------



## jp27

hmm what about this review dude

http://www.skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360.html?page=5

Pros 
Best performance at low fan speeds

anyway im asking about the RS240 not the rx i dont have rx...


----------



## Blameless

I have an RX and it's resistance is pretty low. Slower fans work fine.

Anyway, an update with my pump situation. I contacted XSPC directly and after exchanging a few e-mails and showing them a video of my grinding pump, they are sending me a new one.

+1 to XSPC for great customer service and all those who helped me out in this thread.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


the reason why rx rads. u would use hi speed fans is because they are thicker that rs rads.


you got it wrong if your saying rx need fast fans the rx series work very well on 1000rpm fans where the rs series need faster fans. Its becasue the rs has 1 Row 11 tubes so takes more fan speed to keep it cool. Where the rx360 has 3 rows of 13mm by 2mm Tubes so at even slower rpm more rolls are being cooled. I don't know why people keep telling users they need faster fans for the rx series because its totaly wrong.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


with the rs rads. u would want fan speed around 1600 to 1800,and with the rx rads you would use high speed fans 2000 and up.


Right on rs faster the better wrong on the rx it works fine on slow fans to reasons above show it.


----------



## wermad

RX does better with <1500rpm fans based on skinnee's review.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


RX does better with <1500rpm fans based on skinnee's review.


Yea good thing with the rx is they scale really well at 1000+


----------



## fr0st.

Wermad, are you still in the group seeing as you have a different pump now?

I'm ordering 2/3's of the kit (CPU block and RAD) and getting a different pump (655 in XSPC res/pump housing) so I'd be in the same boat as you.

Also, is that cooler in your DP?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

mcp655 in a xspc is what im running with a rx360 and rasa block with my ek block on my 5870.


----------



## fr0st.

So I could still be in the group, right?









Just think of it as I skipped the first step and went straight to the second.


----------



## wermad

waiting for parts is frustrating


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


So I could still be in the group, right?









Just think of it as I skipped the first step and went straight to the second.










Im in the group lol and i didnt buy a rasa kit but i got alot of rasa parts.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


Wermad, are you still in the group seeing as you have a different pump now?

I'm ordering 2/3's of the kit (CPU block and RAD) and getting a different pump (655 in XSPC res/pump housing) so I'd be in the same boat as you.

Also, is that cooler in your DP?










I still hang around and help, I still have an rx360, rx240, & DDC dual bay res from xspc so I have a little bit of acceptance









Yes, my favorite DBZ character, Cooler, final form.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


waiting for parts is frustrating










Waiting for someone to get home with a working credit card so I can buy parts in frustrating...

I kinda tried to get money out one night when I was a tad... intoxicated...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Im in the group lol and i didnt buy a rasa kit but i got alot of rasa parts.


Cool, It should take 6-10 days for my parts to get to me apparently so I'll join soon


----------



## Blue Destroyer

what types of temps would i get with one of these on a phenom x6 compared to like a high end air or h50/h70?


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


what types of temps would i get with one of these on a phenom x6 compared to like a high end air or h50/h70?


Depends on the kit.

I would also have no clue becuase I haven't watercooled nor do I have a x6 :/


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12006077*
> what types of temps would i get with one of these on a phenom x6 compared to like a high end air or h50/h70?


There are a lot of factors that contribute to the correct answer to this... I know thats not what you want to hear, but its realistic. To be honest if your considering Highend air/h70 vs rasa, then get the rasa, the availability for upgrades in the future will not leave you disappointed. Plus the price per performance, OUTSTANDING


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12006077*
> what types of temps would i get with one of these on a phenom x6 compared to like a high end air or h50/h70?


Depending on ambients, I have seen numbers between 5*-12*C less (sometimes more!) with differences more apparent under load. Some have stated not much difference but their is some troubleshooting being made and thats the minority of posters.

I will be installing this weekend and will be posting before and after temps.

If you are planning on switching, all I can suggest is:

- Pre-plan. What do you want to cool and read what others have installed under similar conditions.
- BUY quality TIM. All though the TIM sent with the kit is decent enough, when it comes to heat, I personally look for the best I can get.
- Take your time planning. WC'ing is a long term investment so you need to make good decisions.
- Read this thread completely. There are a lot of posts but along with those posts there is valuable information and good experience. A lot of answers to your questions. I spent a week, week and a half reading everything and asking questions before making my decision.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12006077*
> what types of temps would i get with one of these on a phenom x6 compared to like a high end air or h50/h70?


Thubans run cooler than Denebs, my old 955BE Deneb maxed at 46-48°c running vantage oc to 4.0 on an RS360 (ek supreme hf cpu block though). I suspect your looking about 40-46c with on oc 4.0+ on a Thuban. Consider the RS240 for a cpu only, and the RX240 or RS360 for a cpu and a gpu. good luck


----------



## Kick

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12006233*
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uhhh, isn't clear tubing meant to be... clear? Not Milky?
You flushed our rad before use, didn't you?
Looks like a flux-residue could do that, flux is generally that colour.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;12006277*
> Uhhh, isn't clear tubing meant to be... clear? Not Milky?
> You flushed our rad before use, didn't you?
> Looks like a flux-residue could do that, flux is generally that colour.


idk. im replacing the tubes soon cuz it looks like it's kinking a little.

i flushed the rad repeatedly.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12006324*
> idk. im replacing the tubes soon cuz it looks like it's kinking a little.
> 
> i flushed the rad repeatedly.


Easy way to tell, is the fluid in your res milky too?

If it's not then it's just the tubing.

Looks good otherwise


----------



## jp27

if you flush your rad well when u first get it it wont ever turn milky!!


----------



## Kick

looking through the little hole on the res is tight 

it's clear 
i can see my rig through the hole clearly.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;12003839*
> Vdroop mod it is! I don't mind it. Do you have a linky for the mod?


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2381763#post2381763

The mod is designed for the 680, but it works on the 780i too. If you scroll down after the post I linked to, there's another one that shows the same but is zoomed out a bit more.

Edit: All this talk of flushing rads... how do you do it? Just run tap water through it?


----------



## ShaCanX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jp27;12006349*
> if you flush your rad well when u first get it it wont ever turn milky!!










I spent a heck of lot of time flushing my rad before installing it and my tubes are also pretty milky!!?? (Water is crystal clear though)

Ok, apart from clouding the tubes flux has no other negative effect right?

Edit: Have a look...


----------



## Blameless

Tubing looks fine.


----------



## mbudden

Tubing is fine. That's how mine was for a while. It will turn brown on you. It has to deal with the tubing. Not with the water. Mine has turned a brownish color.

Oh & adding the pics that were just added.
And another thing, I don't mind the people that stay even if they don't have the kit


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12006368*
> looking through the little hole on the res is tight
> 
> it's clear
> i can see my rig through the hole clearly.


Stock tubing that comes with the kit is "milky" in appearance.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12007478*
> Stock tubing that comes with the kit is "milky" in appearance.


I second that. The tubing is pretty cheap (though not as cheap as the home depot stuff). This is exactly why I ordered Feser 1/2" ID tubing at the same time. When you put the two side by side you can clearly see a huge difference in the quality. The feser is much much thicker and will not turn milky or worse brown. Do yourself a favour and spend an extra $15.00 on some good tubing like Primochill or of course Feser.

P.S. You should always flush your rad out with hot tap water before installing it. It took about six flushes to get all the little black specs out of mine.


----------



## wheth4400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12007862*
> I second that. The tubing is pretty cheap (though not as cheap as the home depot stuff). This is exactly why I ordered Feser 1/2" ID tubing at the same time. When you put the two side by side you can clearly see a huge difference in the quality. The feser is much much thicker and will not turn milky or worse brown. Do yourself a favour and spend an extra $15.00 on some good tubing like Primochill or of course Feser.
> 
> P.S. You should always flush your rad out with hot tap water before installing it. It took about six flushes to get all the little black specs out of mine.


I agree you should replace the tubing. I never touched my stock tubing, I had ordered some primochill black tubing with mine. Also, I wouldn't tap water to flush unless by hot you mean water you boiled then let cool some. The sediment that is in tap water is pretty bad, and I wouldn't want it in my RAD.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12006111*
> There are a lot of factors that contribute to the correct answer to this... I know thats not what you want to hear, but its realistic. To be honest if your considering Highend air/h70 vs rasa, then get the rasa, the availability for upgrades in the future will not leave you disappointed. Plus the price per performance, OUTSTANDING


On my 965 C3 at 4.020 ghz going from an H50 with 2,000 rpm fans in push pull and shrouds all as front intake my temps with the XPSC Rasa 750 RX360 kit dropped 11 degrees max temp and 2 degrees idle temp. That is huge for this chip. From other posts I should now be able to boost the overclock to approx 4.2 ghz.







I'll try to do that later today.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12006112*
> Depending on ambients, I have seen numbers between 5*-12*C less (sometimes more!) with differences more apparent under load. Some have stated not much difference but their is some troubleshooting being made and thats the minority of posters.
> 
> I will be installing this weekend and will be posting before and after temps.
> 
> If you are planning on switching, all I can suggest is:
> 
> - Pre-plan. What do you want to cool and read what others have installed under similar conditions.
> - BUY quality TIM. All though the TIM sent with the kit is decent enough, when it comes to heat, I personally look for the best I can get.
> - Take your time planning. WC'ing is a long term investment so you need to make good decisions.
> - Read this thread completely. There are a lot of posts but along with those posts there is valuable information and good experience. A lot of answers to your questions. I spent a week, week and a half reading everything and asking questions before making my decision.


My pc is in my basement that never gets above 60F(15.5C). One of the main reasons i am looking into the Rasa is its cheap, and i upgrade alot..usually atleast 2 computers a year if not more. thanks for all the info. not sure if im sold on the kit, but i will be reading up on it through the club and see if its something i want to do.


----------



## sgilmore62

There is as much as 5C difference in my CPU core temps and I was wondering if that is normal or maybe thermal paste isn't even?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12008997*
> There is as much as 5C difference in my CPU core temps and I was wondering if that is normal or maybe thermal paste isn't even?


Normal for i7


----------



## mbudden

Should have lower temps than that. What's your voltage?


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12009132*
> Should have lower temps than that. What's your voltage?


4.2Ghz @1.35V CPU-Z shows 1.336 core voltage.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12007862*
> P.S. You should always flush your rad out with hot tap water before installing it. It took about six flushes to get all the little black specs out of mine.


Specks???? I had a wee bit more than a speck (check my pix a few posts back). That was like a third of what I pulled out. What I pulled out would have done a nice number on my pump. I was mining!!!


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys does this kit have everything you need? The 240.

Or is there extra stuff I have to buy.

sent from tapatalk on android


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;12010101*
> Hey guys does this kit have everything you need? The 240.
> 
> Or is there extra stuff I have to buy.
> 
> sent from tapatalk on android


It has everything you need but I would buy some different tubing like Primochill or something. You can pick up some distilled water at your local grocery. Some guys recommend PTnuke biocide to keep algae growth down but if you change the water once a month or so shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12009965*
> Specks???? I had a wee bit more than a speck (check my pix a few posts back). That was like a third of what I pulled out. What I pulled out would have done a nice number on my pump. I was mining!!!


Wow, I guess not all rad are made equally or perhaps the RX are different?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Should have lower temps than that. What's your voltage?


LOL, have a look at his system, overclocked I7 930 to 4.2 ghz and a 5970 waterblock all through a RX 240 rad. I'd say that's pretty good.


----------



## dembo1305

So all this talk of rads and stuff, how should I go about installing this kit?

Flush the rad first, then hook everything up. How do you prime the line and not mess up the pump?

Also what about draining it?


----------



## wermad

RX240 came in today


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Wow, I guess not all rad are made equally or perhaps the RX are different?










My opinion is that out of every so many rads you will have a few that are crappy. Law of statistics. You have drill bits dulling. Workers getting tired. Whatever. I honestly think that I was just unlucky in getting the unfortunate rad BUT I was lucky to have joined up here, read some good advice, test it out and find out that I did have the unfortunate rad. RX, RS the only real difference is size and a couple extra internal loops for the water to flow through.

Now... if I hadn't read and asked/commented about flushing the rad, I may have wound up with a crapola pump and blame the wrong component! Tomorrow I'm gonna install and I know its all gonna work perfectly!


----------



## logan666

hey fellas do theses temps seem any better ??


----------



## mbudden

Looks better. Did you reseat the CPU block/get the bubbles out? Looks on par with the i7's though.


----------



## logan666

nah i just flipped my fans around 2 intake but its pretty cool 2day its only 27 28 not 31 lol so thats helped ive got some of that indigo extreme on the way aswell i heard its good stuff??


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *logan666*


nah i just flipped my fans around 2 intake but its pretty cool 2day its only 27 28 not 31 lol so thats helped * ive got some of that indigo extreme on the way aswell i heard its good stuff??*


From what I have heard, it's the best of the best.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *logan666*


hey fellas do theses temps seem any better ??


Those arent bad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


From what I have heard, it's the best of the best.


hmm i wonder if it will help my temps if i turn the rad fans around to intake ? With my setup im not sure they would even help changing them i should have surplus of fresh air.


----------



## Garanthor

Hahahahahahah......got more bubbles out of my system and ran prime 95 again to check temps. at 19.5 C ambient, idle is now 24 C and max temp reached was 41C







. I'm loving this!!!!







Here is the proof:


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Hahahahahahah......got more bubbles out of my system and ran prime 95 again to check temps. at 19.5 C ambient, idle is now 24 C and max temp reached was 41C







. I'm loving this!!!!







Here is the proof:


that's impressive, how long did you run prime for?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


hmm i wonder if it will help my temps if i turn the rad fans around to intake ? With my setup im not sure they would even help changing them i should have surplus of fresh air.


Wondering the same thing myself.
Will test it out after downloading Windows 7 SP1 update.
Currently getting 51C while folding.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Wondering the same thing myself.
Will test it out after downloading Windows 7 SP1 update.
Currently getting 51C while folding.


nice temps!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Wondering the same thing myself.
Will test it out after downloading Windows 7 SP1 update.
Currently getting 51C while folding.


Lol im getting sp1 to but i really dont wanna change my rad fans you know it took like 2hrs to get it in their where my ram can be put in lol.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


that's impressive, how long did you run prime for?


Ran for just over 1 hour. I love my system.







Time to bump up those overclocks and run again. 4.2 ghz next.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


nice temps!


With 1.5V's. Heck yes.








But if I run IBT, my temps shoot up to mid 60's. lol.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Lol im getting sp1 to but i really dont wanna change my rad fans you know it took like 2hrs to get it in their where my ram can be put in lol.


Haha. Oh wow. Well, mine are sitting on the back of my case. Easy to move around


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ah so your fans probly wont matter and thats why you got really cool temps to got lots of amb air that can cool the rad. Lol for me ibt gets my core 1 and 3 to 80c and 2 and core 3 76c with core 4 at 73 but i am running 4400 with HT at 1.43 vcore. Funny my little e5300 with a old tuniq tower folds around 55-60c at 4000mhz 1.41vcore.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Ah so your fans probly wont matter and thats why you got really cool temps to got lots of amb air that can cool the rad. Lol for me ibt gets my core 1 and 3 to 80c and 2 and core 3 76c with core 4 at 73 but i am running 4400 with HT at 1.43 vcore. *Funny my little e5300 with a old tuniq tower folds around 55-60c at 4000mhz 1.41vcore.*


Took 1.45V for mine to get the 4Ghz stable. I wanted a little higher, so I set sights for 4.2Ghz and made it so.







But wow. Those are some crazy temps running IBT. But then again, IBT seems to stress your PC more than P95 would.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Took 1.45V for mine to get the 4Ghz stable. I wanted a little higher, so I set sights for 4.2Ghz and made it so.







But wow. Those are some crazy temps running IBT. But then again, IBT seems to stress your PC more than P95 would.


Mine only needs like 1.39 but my old abit board sucks and if i get it set to 1.39 it likes to drop down to 1.37 so i had to bump it and that sent it up to 1.41. The abit ip35-e was never made to run 45nm cpus i had to get a modded bios to even get it to work.


----------



## kingofyo1

well guys, I got my MSI video card in today, and was able to successfully put the water block on it ^_^ Now I've got a 460 1gb cyclone card pumping out 975 core and 2000 mem. Folding just the card alone, it puts out 50c(ish). Im about to try it with a full load on the CPU as well, to see how much the temp jumps when there's more heat put into the loop


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Nice lol i wonder how much my 5870 dumps into my loop running 1000/1300.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Mine only needs like 1.39 but my old abit board sucks and if i get it set to 1.39 it likes to drop down to 1.37 so i had to bump it and that sent it up to 1.41. The abit ip35-e was never made to run 45nm cpus i had to get a modded bios to even get it to work.


Ah. Well you could always get a cheap Gigabyte board. To be honest, I love this board, other than the fact that my BIOS Voltage says almost 1.6V and CPUz says 1.5V lol.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol 4ghz is good enugh for me i gave my friend my mega so im at limits of the heat the old tuniq can handle anyway.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


lol 4ghz is good enugh for me i gave my friend my mega so im at limits of the heat the old tuniq can handle anyway.


Ah okay. I get about 2.3K PPD @ 4.2Ghz. Nothing amazing...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i get about the same 2.3-2.6ppd.


----------



## kingofyo1

OH before I put it up on the boards, anyone need a MSI cyclone 460 heatsink?

and the addition of waterblock into the loop with CPU and GPU both on load is

Core: 43c
Gpu: 60c


----------



## Kick

so.... im planning to drain my loop but have no idea how/where to start

it was a pain in the ash to cut tubing off the barb the last time i messed up


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


OH before I put it up on the boards, anyone need a MSI cyclone 460 heatsink?


keep it for rma purposes


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


OH before I put it up on the boards, anyone need a MSI cyclone 460 heatsink?

and the addition of waterblock into the loop with CPU and GPU both on load is

Core: 43c
Gpu: 60c


Keep it incase you need to ever rma the card and your gpu temps seem kinda hot my 5870 never passes 41c in anything.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


and the addition of waterblock into the loop with CPU and GPU both on load is

Core: 43c
Gpu: 60c


Not too bad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


so.... im planning to drain my loop but have no idea how/where to start

it was a pain in the ash to cut tubing off the barb the last time i messed up


Just remove a hose and let her drain. But maybe heat the hose so you don't have to cut it.


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Just remove a hose and let her drain. But maybe heat the hose so you don't have to cut it.


i see, so it automatically drains? no need to turn on the pump?


----------



## Theory

going on a week with air still stuck in my pump. tried everything and still no luck -.-


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


i see, so it automatically drains? no need to turn on the pump?


Eh. Will help. I usually do, but last time. I put it over my bathtub. And let gravity go to work. Used my mouth to blow out the water since I'm not dumb enough to mix bathtub + draining water + electricity.

Will make a dedicated drain port later on.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I got a drain port and it sucks lol never can get all the water out im lucky my asus has a life jacket cause iv tried to drown it 3 times now.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Yes, my favorite DBZ character, Cooler, final form.


Yeah, he's pretty badarse.
I haven't seen too much DBZ myself, my friend used to watch it. I saw the Cooler Vs Goku battle on youtube one day


----------



## kingofyo1

eh, well I put enough ceramique on it, but I dont think its had enough time to cure, so tomorrow or the next day it'll be fully cured and probably be a bit lower temp wise


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


eh, well I put enough ceramique on it, but I dont think its had enough time to cure, so tomorrow or the next day it'll be fully cured and probably be a bit lower temp wise


I alwasy like to use as5 on gpus as it spreads out really good and im hoping my paste breaks in on my cpu here id like to get cooler temps on the cpu.


----------



## kingofyo1

lol yeah, that arctic silver isnt the best IMO because of the cure time. If i had some extra x23 to drop on it, I would have without a second thought!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea as5 sucked on my water block but it does work good on gpus cause they need to be fully coverd.


----------



## fr0st.

How's MX4?
Good for water blocks? I'm gonna use a stick for my CPU and GPU; maybe my Xbox 360 (it had RROD, it's sitting dismantled on my kitchen table for the past week) too.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


How's MX4?
Good for water blocks? I'm gonna use a stick for my CPU and GPU; maybe my Xbox 360 (it had RROD, it's sitting dismantled on my kitchen table for the past week) too.


I'm going to be using MX-2 when I re-apply after I get my new 780i.

I used the Stock crap that came with the kit. Idle 25c load 61c at 3.4GHz with 1.4v


----------



## dixson01974

Hey guys. I have a question about XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 VS. XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 and one question about better fans.
1) Which one is better for a cpu?
2) Will Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans work better than stock fans?
I have the money for both kits and a have 3 Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15.


----------



## wermad

AS Ceramique


----------



## Jonesey I7

Well it's no golden chip, but I can't really tell if it's the chip that's not so good, or these crappy bios that I have to work with from Gigabyte. They really need to step their game up. Have a replacement chip coming Monday, gonna see if it's any better. If not, going to keep the best of the two and wait it out for Gigabyte to get this bios mess straightend out.


----------



## kingofyo1

Man, I thought I was doing good here for a bit, but it looks like I'm going to have to remount the radiator outside the case >.< the temps for CPU with gpu on load scare me  Last night, was about 80f in the house and I was CPU and gpu folding. I leave it to do its thing for an hour, when I came back my cpu core was at 53(which is high for thubans) and my gpu core was around 65c.. Yall think I could benefit from moving the radiator out back again?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


Man, I thought I was doing good here for a bit, but it looks like I'm going to have to remount the radiator outside the case >.< the temps for CPU with gpu on load scare me  Last night, was about 80f in the house and I was CPU and gpu folding. I leave it to do its thing for an hour, when I came back my cpu core was at 53(which is high for thubans) and my gpu core was around 65c.. Yall think I could benefit from moving the radiator out back again?


What were your temps before you moved it internal?


----------



## kingofyo1

I think my cpu under load was at max like 38 or 36.. Cant exactly remember :/ but I may be pulling in too much air with not enough exhaust  I got the 3 120s on rad up top as intake pulling in cooler air but only 1 120 doing exhaust duty


----------



## Gigalisk

All core components of Project Tenebris have been PURCHASED!!! Now to get this RASA kit, and i'll be set to start building when i return.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


I think my cpu under load was at max like 38 or 36.. Cant exactly remember :/ but I may be pulling in too much air with not enough exhaust  I got the 3 120s on rad up top as intake pulling in cooler air but only 1 120 doing exhaust duty


 I would flip the fans around on rad to exhaust with the single 120 case fan as intake.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


I would flip the fans around on rad to exhaust with the single 120 case fan as intake.


oh forgot to mention there's also 2 120s in front bottom for intake and one right in front of psu for intake.. thesse 120s are poop for cfm, as they're azza's normal casefans, but they're still considered intake I guess..


----------



## rmp459

Would anyone here that owns a RS240 please take a couple measurements for me? (in millimeters please.)

Im really trying to see if i can work this ran into the intake on my lian li pc-9f or if I am going to have to go external with it.

Thanks


----------



## Electric

I have a question here.. Would it be worth the extra $20 to get the RS360 kit over RS240?

I want to OC my 980x to 4.7GHz or so.


----------



## kingofyo1

electric, do you plan on doign any gpu cooling also, or just cpu? you may also want to fill in your build info in user cp for us to help you further


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12027187*
> I have a question here.. Would it be worth the extra $20 to get the RS360 kit over RS240?
> 
> I want to OC my 980x to 4.7GHz or so.


yes you bet,it would be worth it.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmp459;12025399*
> Would anyone here that owns a RS240 please take a couple measurements for me? (in millimeters please.)
> 
> Im really trying to see if i can work this ran into the intake on my lian li pc-9f or if I am going to have to go external with it.
> 
> Thanks


XSPC RS240 BLACK
High Performance Copper Fin Radiator
- Matt Black Finish
- Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)
- 19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance
- 1 Row 11 Tubes
- Compact Design
- G1/4" Ports
- 6-32 Screws


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12027187*
> I have a question here.. Would it be worth the extra $20 to get the RS360 kit over RS240?
> 
> I want to OC my 980x to 4.7GHz or so.


For 20 more?? Absofreakinlutely.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12027230*
> XSPC RS240 BLACK
> High Performance Copper Fin Radiator
> - Matt Black Finish
> - Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)
> - 19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance
> - 1 Row 11 Tubes
> - Compact Design
> - G1/4" Ports
> - 6-32 Screws


based on his diagram, I think rmp459 needs the end tank measurements too. I have the RX so I can't help


----------



## Electric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12027212*
> yes you bet,it would be worth it.


I updated my sig rig, and what are the reasons why would it be worth it? Thanks.


----------



## kingofyo1

lower temps from more cooling area. If you have the space to put a 360, get it. its worth it


----------



## sgilmore62

Hey guys, I was thinking about adding a Magicool 480 rad in the door of my rig and was wondering if the XSPC 750 pump would handle the Rasa, RX240, XSPC 5970 GPU block and the 480 res.

With 25mm fans it will just barely clear my GPU block with the door closed.


----------



## rmp459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12027230*
> XSPC RS240 BLACK
> High Performance Copper Fin Radiator
> - Matt Black Finish
> - Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)
> - 19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance
> - 1 Row 11 Tubes
> - Compact Design
> - G1/4" Ports
> - 6-32 Screws


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12027307*
> based on his diagram, I think rmp459 needs the end tank measurements too. I have the RX so I can't help


Yea sorry I appreciate the info above (I should have been more clear), but I grabbed that from frozen CPU. I know the Rad fits in the area, but i need the exact dimensions of the end tanks and the fitting area in order to see if I can use existing fan holes or if I am going to have to do some modding to make it work.

Anyone got a RS240 and a tape measure? lol

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/882408-official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-243.html#post12025399


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmp459;12027860*
> Yea sorry I appreciate the info above (I should have been more clear), but I grabbed that from frozen CPU. I know the Rad fits in the area, but i need the exact dimensions of the end tanks and the fitting area in order to see if I can use existing fan holes or if I am going to have to do some modding to make it work.
> 
> Anyone got a RS240 and a tape measure? lol
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/882408-official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-243.html#post12025399


It will line up with existing fan holes as long as they are for 120mm fans -- don't need a tape measure for that.


----------



## rmp459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12027890*
> It will line up with existing fan holes as long as they are for 120mm fans -- don't need a tape measure for that.


You do need a tape measure for that when its the two front fans of a lian li pc-9f and there is a 20mm gap between the two front intake fans... unlike the radiator which has the fans almost exactly next to one another as if we were talking 120mm mounted in 5.25" bays...

Which means chances are with the added height of the rad on the ends and the fans not matching up I am going to have to just use a single set of 4 screws to mount the rad to either the location of the upper or lower fan...

Problem is things come into play in both situations...

Other issues is that I am using multistranded elastic to suspend my 2 hdds in my only 2 usable 5.25" bays under my fan controller... So i have no idea where this res/pump is gonna go. Unless I suspend it from the 5.25" cage w/ 3m tape or something


----------



## wermad

the rad standard is now 1.5mm between fan spacing.


----------



## sgilmore62

Have you removed the HDD cages yet? just looking at that Lian Li case, it would be best to mount externally but would be awesome and desirable to mount it in the front like you want. it looks like you could mount it after removing HDD cages with the barbs down. With the barbs down that presents a problem with routing tubing to the XSPC res/pump.

I would forget about a bay res/pump and think about mounting it in the bottom of the case opposite to the rad except your power supply is there -- doh!

Looks like you have 2 factory holes and grommets on the rear of the case for tubing and an external rad -- that's probably your best choice. The Rasa kit comes with external mounting hardware.


----------



## rmp459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12028152*
> the rad standard is now 1.5mm between fan spacing.


Ok great unless the bottom end tank is somehow less than 2mm from the fan edge it should fit fine in the front with the barbs at the top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12028183*
> Have you removed the HDD cages yet? just looking at that Lian Li case, it would be best to mount externally but would be awesome and desirable to mount it in the front like you want. it looks like you could mount it after removing HDD cages with the barbs down. With the barbs down that presents a problem with routing tubing to the XSPC res/pump.
> 
> I would forget about a bay res/pump and think about mounting it in the bottom of the case opposite to the rad except your power supply is there -- doh!


Yea I removed the hdd cage... maybe you guys have some ideas... here are some pics of what I have to work with... I want to mount the rad w/ ap-15s in the front with the barbs at the top end. Then i gotta find a damn place for this bay.... I can drill out the rivets on that bottom mount, but that will just block the rad... =(


























I can also mount the rad in the back outside of the case using the rear 120mm fan holes and a shroud to space it off a bit, and then put the pump/res in the bottom of the case, but then I have a long run of tubing going diagonally across the entire case...which id rather avoid.... Im thinking of fabbing a hdd mount to put in the bottom of my case to free up those bays... have someone locally make me some sort of stand assembly I can run the elastic through outta one piece of acrylic or aluminum stock.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmp459;12028240*
> Ok great unless the bottom end tank is somehow less than 2mm from the fan edge it should fit fine in the front with the barbs at the top.


try attaching the rad to one fan only to hold it in place, add a couple of more for push pull. which one depends on how the rad will be position and clearance, its a tight fit but good luck


----------



## rmp459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12028263*
> try attaching the rad to one fan only to hold it in place, add a couple of more for push pull. which one depends on how the rad will be position and clearance, its a tight fit but good luck


thats my plan... gonna have to relocate these drives.


----------



## fr0st.

Every time I go to buy there's no one home.

*sigh*


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12027187*
> I have a question here.. Would it be worth the extra $20 to get the RS360 kit over RS240?
> 
> I want to OC my 980x to 4.7GHz or so.


yes aboslutly i just built a customers computer with the rs360 kit on the amd x6 cpu, and we were able to reach 4.4ghz and it was idling at 15c and load at 28 after 2 hours of prime.
where i built another computer who also had the x6 amd and was sitting at 4.4( so pretty much the same) except it was on the rs240 and he was idleing at 24 load 36.

i understand that intel and amd are going to have different temps, but hopefully this gives you an idea of what a difference you cna get, not to mention being able to add gpu/nb/sb/mosfet blocks later on without worrying

also if u want to go extreme on jab-tech you can get the RX kits that are slightly more expensive but the rads are double thick so u get maximum cooling and you can use slower RPM fans


----------



## jam3s

hey guys. I want to add the RX240 and two EK blocks to my loop.

Will the 750 H20 Pump be good enough to support my RX360 and these added things?

I will be upgrading in due time, probably around april/may but I just wanted to make sure the pump can handle two more blocks and another RAD.

Jam3s


----------



## UnFeX3

Hmm not sure but some guy in this thread was running tri-sli - cpu with 3 or 2 rads


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;12029161*
> hey guys. I want to add the RX240 and two EK blocks to my loop.
> 
> Will the 750 H20 Pump be good enough to support my RX360 and these added things?
> 
> I will be upgrading in due time, probably around april/may but I just wanted to make sure the pump can handle two more blocks and another RAD.
> 
> Jam3s


you can, BUT it won't flow very much at all. Hell, mine wasn't flowing very well with just the externally mounted rad, gpu, and cpu. I mean it moved water, but not like I wanted it to. I'd upgrade to the mcp655-b just to be safe.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


hey guys. I want to add the RX240 and two EK blocks to my loop.

Will the 750 H20 Pump be good enough to support my RX360 and these added things?

I will be upgrading in due time, probably around april/may but I just wanted to make sure the pump can handle two more blocks and another RAD.

Jam3s


the RX360 is more than enough for your cpu and gpu. The x20-750 can do it, but your pushing it. It has little head pressure compared to the Jingway, D5, and DDC.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnFeX3*


Hmm not sure but some guy in this thread was running tri-sli - cpu with 3 or 2 rads


That was me







! The pump can do it but its not ideal for long term longevity so a better pump would be in order. I upgraded to a DDC 3.2 (aka Swiftech MCP 355) as it has a lot more head preassure (4.5 vs 1.8)


----------



## Electric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


lower temps from more cooling area. If you have the space to put a 360, get it. its worth it










Would it fit fine in a HAF 922?


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


the RX360 is more than enough for your cpu and gpu. The x20-750 can do it, but your pushing it. It has little head pressure compared to the Jingway, D5, and DDC.

That was me







! The pump can do it but its not ideal for long term longevity so a better pump would be in order. I upgraded to a DDC 3.2 (aka Swiftech MCP 355) as it has a lot more head preassure (4.5 vs 1.8)


Alright thanks wermad.

I will stick with the single RX360 and add two EK blocks to the loop.

You would recommend the MCP655 or the Laing DDC 355 right?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Electric*


Would it fit fine in a HAF 922?


From what I have, it should with modding.


----------



## Jonesey I7

355 for all them blocks.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


355 for all them blocks.










I guess i'd need a new res as well then =/


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


I guess i'd need a new res as well then =/


they make a damn sexy one for the dual bay just like the x20.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


they make a damn sexy one for the dual bay just like the x20.


Any linkies you could give me. I'd like another Dual bay res for sure I love the look of it


----------



## CaptainChaos

http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Dual-DD...o-pr-4457.html

that's the one I believe


----------



## Jonesey I7

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/95...DDCBAYTWO.html

http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic-Dua...e-pr-4549.html


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


Alright thanks wermad.

I will stick with the single RX360 and add two EK blocks to the loop.

You would recommend the MCP655 or the Laing DDC 355 right?


655 will work fine to it has more flow then the 355 but less head if the blocks arent restrictive and ek usualy arent then the 655 will do fine and it runs cooler and quieter then the 355.

Lol funny i thought i had stuck idle temps it turns out the stuff i turned off in bios was messing with my temps idle and load heres my new idle temps lol just playing around.


----------



## jam3s

so how do you get the damn MCP 355 / 655 into the res? I'm confused hehe


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you gota buy a res made for it thats what i used for my mcp655 you unscrew like cap and put on a bracket and new 0 ring and then it goes in the res on a open side with 4 scrws.
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic...5-pr-4666.html


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


you gota buy a res made for it thats what i used for my mcp655 you unscrew like cap and put on a bracket and new 0 ring and then it goes in the res on a open side with 4 scrws.
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic...5-pr-4666.html


I wish I could just buy the pump/res altogether =/ I don't want it to leak after i'm done with it.

It seems scary and hard to do.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


I wish I could just buy the pump/res altogether =/ I don't want it to leak after i'm done with it.

It seems scary and hard to do.










Is simple, don't fret.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Is simple, don't fret.










ok hehe I trust you.

So two EK blocks and res and a pump should do me good huh


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


ok hehe i trust you.

So two ek blocks and res and a pump should do me good huh


for sure...


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


for sure...


you sure I shouldn't buy another RX240 or will the RX360 hold up


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


I wish I could just buy the pump/res altogether =/ I don't want it to leak after i'm done with it.

It seems scary and hard to do.










I just installed the mcp655 into the XSPC res linked above. Pics of the install are in my build log linked in my sig below. VERY easy to follow instructions are included, and the whole install took maybe 10 mins.

Here is the page with the actual instructions that come with the res, just scroll down to Acrylic Dual 5.25â€ Reservoir for Laing D5 and click the pdf.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


I wish I could just buy the pump/res altogether =/ I don't want it to leak after i'm done with it.

It seems scary and hard to do.










Its easy the directions were pretty good i did it lol and no leaks i thk its much easyer on the 655 then the 355.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


I just installed the mcp655 into the XSPC res linked above. Pics of the install are in my build log linked in my sig below. VERY easy to follow instructions are included, and the whole install took maybe 10 mins.

Here is the page with the actual instructions that come with the res, just scroll down to Acrylic Dual 5.25" Reservoir for Laing D5 and click the pdf.


Thank you.









I will be upgrading my WC come april or may. Next few months gonna be short on cash.

I will be buying from DazMode.com as well

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Its easy the directions were pretty good i did it lol and no leaks i thk its much easyer on the 655 then the 355.


Thanks bal3. I'm just scared of leaks hehe


----------



## Jonesey I7

Just bought my 655-b from someone here. *yay* 1 more piece to the puzzle completed.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol your puzzle has a lot of peices.


----------



## Jonesey I7

yes it does have a lot of PIECES.







Think I'm just going to order the rest tomorrow and say the hell with waiting for taxes. BTW, they hit me HARD for a self-employment tax, and my taxes aren't as lovely as I thought they were going to be. So I had to make some cutbacks, as I still want some double d's to look at each night on my wife, and they had to come first at $5500. Getting the rx360, dual bay res, 6 medium speed yates, kill coil, and the external mounts. Grand total after %10 off and free shipping.... $202. Still getting the 27' samsung, but just going to keep my current case and mount the rad externally again.


----------



## jam3s

lol double d's


----------



## kingofyo1

ya know, just once I'd like to play rock paper scissors lizard spock.. here's the rules


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12036279*
> yes it does have a lot of PIECES.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'm just going to order the rest tomorrow and say the hell with waiting for taxes. BTW, they hit me HARD for a self-employment tax, and my taxes aren't as lovely as I thought they were going to be. So I had to make some cutbacks, as I still want some double d's to look at each night on my wife, and they had to come first at $5500. Getting the rx360, dual bay res, 6 medium speed yates, kill coil, and the external mounts. Grand total after %10 off and free shipping.... $202. Still getting the 27' samsung, but just going to keep my current case and mount the rad externally again.


Lmao screw the wifes boob job in a year or 2 you will be paying to get them taken out cause she nags you so much about them hurting her back. But i dont like fake stuff rather replace the wife with a new model with real ones


----------



## sgilmore62

When I bought my XSPC Rasa RX240 kit I knew the pump/res wouldn't hold up very many extra blocks and rads but knew I was getting a good CPU block and radiator plus a complete kit to get started in watercooling. I didn't have to spend a whole lot of money right off the bat and was able to have a good water cooling loop.

Right now I have added a GPU block and upgraded my tubing to Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing -1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD and the difference is like night and day compared with the XSPC kit tubing. Highly recommend upgrading the tubing to anyone with XSPC kit. The quality, appearance and the way the Primoflex tubing holds it's shape even with tight bends is awesome compared with the tubing that comes with XSPC kit.

The one thing I can say positive about the XSPC kit tubing is that it's idiot proof. As long as it's wiggled over a 1/2" barb it will not leak -- and you can't get it off without heating it or cutting it either! The 1/2"IDx3/4"OD tubing definitely needs clamps or compression fittings properly installed or it will leak.

Just ordered a Magicool Xtreme 480 rad to add to my loop and will eventually upgrade to a better pump and res. This watercooling stuff is addicting Lol!


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12037383*
> Lmao screw the wifes boob job in a year or 2 you will be paying to get them taken out cause she nags you so much about them hurting her back. But i dont like fake stuff rather replace the wife with a new model with real ones


You know what is the most ironic right? She has a plate and four screws in her back already, has schiatic<~~ terrible spelling* nerve problems, and already complains about her back.


----------



## mbudden

Wish I could water cool my laptop.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12037554*
> wish i could water cool my laptop.


lmao, +1


----------



## mbudden

I'm not kidding either. 46C idle temp is ridiculous. Might have to take it apart and probably reapply some TIM. But a water cooled laptop would be awesome.


----------



## kingofyo1

its probably the lack of a mediocre fan on the cpu, mbud. You should take it apart, mod the height and put in watercooling ^^


----------



## Kahbrohn

Gahhhhhh... All installed. All working. Just have this nagging "vibration" noise from the reservoir/pump. Just started today. Yesterday worked like a charm.

Will do a bit of shaking tomorrow to see if its a bubble in the pump but i doubt it.

Ideas?


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Wish I could water cool my laptop.


Was just thinking the same thing last night lol. Was actually thinking how I could mount blocks to the CPU and GPU's. I have a Toshiba Qosmio with a QX9300 and 2 9800m gts on a single pcb with Nvidia chipset that runs pretty hot. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned out and replace thermal paste is what it really needs.

The CPU is pretty cool because I put MX-2 on it when I upgraded from P8400 core2 duo. Wish I would have put new paste on the 9800m gts sli and Nvidia chipset when I upgraded the processor. I've squeezed every Mhz possible out of every chip in that thing lol.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12037708*
> Gahhhhhh... All installed. All working. Just have this nagging "vibration" noise from the reservoir/pump. Just started today. Yesterday worked like a charm.
> 
> Will do a bit of shaking tomorrow to see if its a bubble in the pump but i doubt it.
> 
> Ideas?


air...... give it a week or two, then start to worry.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;12037706*
> its probably the lack of a mediocre fan on the cpu, mbud. You should take it apart, mod the height and put in watercooling ^^


Haha. I wish. I think it'd need a custom water block. I wonder if anyone has watercooled a laptop...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12037708*
> Gahhhhhh... All installed. All working. Just have this nagging "vibration" noise from the reservoir/pump. Just started today. Yesterday worked like a charm.
> 
> Will do a bit of shaking tomorrow to see if its a bubble in the pump but i doubt it.
> 
> Ideas?


Interesting. Could be a bubble, or the pump. Make sure it's not vibrating coming through the screws and into the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12037718*
> Was just thinking the same thing last night lol. Was actually thinking how I could mount blocks to the CPU and GPU's. I have a Toshiba Qosmio with a QX9300 and 2 9800m gts on a single pcb with Nvidia chipset that runs pretty hot. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned out and replace thermal paste is what it really needs.
> 
> The CPU is pretty cool because I put MX-2 on it when I upgraded from P8400 core2 duo. Wish I would have put new paste on the 9800m gts sli and Nvidia chipset when I upgraded the processor. I've squeezed every Mhz possible out of every chip in that thing lol.


Mine has a AMD Truion MK-32 or something like that. Trying to upgrade it to a dual core.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Mine has a AMD Truion MK-32 or something like that. Trying to upgrade it to a dual core.


Can you upgrade to a dual core with an AMD laptop?

My first laptop had an AMD processor and ATI graphics, that thing was built like a tank lol. It had a metal case and weighed a ton for a 15" laptop.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12037894*
> Can you upgrade to a dual core with an AMD laptop?
> 
> My first laptop had an AMD processor and ATI graphics, that thing was built like a tank lol. It had a metal case and weighed a ton for a 15" laptop.


Yep. It's a Dell laptop btw. It was sold with a Sempron CPU, single core Turion (like the one I have), and Dual Core Turion like the one I will be looking into putting on it. Turion X2 TL-62


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12037554*
> Wish I could water cool my laptop.


This guy did it. Get to work!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PulkPull;12037929*
> This guy did it. Get to work!


Wow. That's a bit intense.


----------



## Electric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12034795*
> From what I have, it should with modding.


Modding? :/

What kind of modding?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12038578*
> Modding? :/
> 
> What kind of modding?


Where did that quote of what I said come from? I don't recall saying that. lol


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12038667*
> Where did that quote of what I said come from? I don't recall saying that. lol


click on the little blue arrow and it will show you the post that the quote came from.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12038703*
> click on the little blue arrow and it will show you the post that the quote came from.


No wonder why I have no recollection. It was from like 4-5 pages back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12038578*
> Modding? :/
> 
> What kind of modding?


I meant to say, "From what I know, it can. With a bit of modding." But after doing some searching. It is said that it will fit, but you won't be able to use the upper most drive bays. My mistake, I was thinking of the HAF 922.


----------



## Electric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12038667*
> Where did that quote of what I said come from? I don't recall saying that. lol


Lol, I a was asking to see if the XPSC RASA 750 RS360 will fit inside my CM HAF 922, and you said I could with modding.


----------



## Electric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12038739*
> No wonder why I have no recollection. It was from like 4-5 pages back.
> 
> I meant to say, "From what I know, it can. With a bit of modding." But after doing some searching. It is said that it will fit, but you won't be able to use the upper most drive bays. *My mistake, I was thinking of the HAF 922.*


It _was_ the HAF 922 I was talking about!

xD


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12038797*
> It _was_ the HAF 922 I was talking about!
> 
> xD


Check this out








http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/757142-360mm-rad-haf-922-a.html


----------



## wermad

MCP 355 + XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir for ONE DDC:










Instructions: http://xspc.biz/manuals/ddcbayresone.pdf


----------



## mbudden

I opened up my laptop and replaced the TIM. Seems like a little too much was used. Since AMD doesn't like IHS's. I had to put it directly on the die. I think I put a tad much. but hopefully not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12038900*
> MCP 355 + XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir for ONE DDC:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instructions: http://xspc.biz/manuals/ddcbayresone.pdf


Nom nom nom. Looks good.


----------



## Electric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12038858*
> Check this out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/757142-360mm-rad-haf-922-a.html


Just seems so confusing. I am going to be completely honest with you. I've never built a computer before, much less a WC setup... I think that I am either going to need to get a new case or find out a better option for a cooler that will fit.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12038995*
> Just seems so confusing. I am going to be completely honest with you. I've never built a computer before, much less a WC setup... I think that I am either going to need to get a new case or find out a better option for a cooler that will fit.


It says it fits, you just won't be able to use the top drive bay areas.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12038995*
> Just seems so confusing. I am going to be completely honest with you. I've never built a computer before, much less a WC setup... I think that I am either going to need to get a new case or find out a better option for a cooler that will fit.


If you've never built a computer, you probably shouldn't be into water cooling just yet then huh?


----------



## Electric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12039027*
> It says it fits, you just won't be able to use the top drive bay areas.


Oh. Okay. It's just this quote was confusing me from the thread you linked, lol:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cblaxx19;9725800*
> he just dremeled out the indented slots in the top plastic tray with buttons. and he cut a hole in the top of the case underneath the plastic tray for the third 120 spot. im doing the same thing once i get all of my parts and the case. but it well def work. good luck


----------



## Electric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12039152*
> If you've never built a computer, you probably shouldn't be into water cooling just yet then huh?


Yeah.. I might be able to do it though. xP


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12039378*
> Yeah.. I might be able to do it though. xP


I wish u luck mate, and we'll be here for you when you need help.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Yeah.. I might be able to do it though. xP


Don't worry, the XSPC kits are fairly idiot proof, not suggesting you are an idiot, jus sayin if an idiot can do it it'll be a piece a cake for you.

I was every bit as apprehensive as you when buying my XSPC kit but what is good about it is you can get your feet wet inexpensively in watercooling and still have a good CPU block and radiator.

If you decide to take watercooling further than the XSPC kit you can still use the CPU block and radiator. You will only need to upgrade the tubing and pump/res to go along with any rads and blocks you want to add.


----------



## Electric

Yeah. I hope I just don't encounter any issues as far as the amount of space I have in my HAF 922. I don't mind it taking up hard drive bays, but as long as I'm 100% sure that It will fit and function without too much of a hassle in my mid sized case, I'll be fine.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12039468*
> Yeah. I hope I just don't encounter any issues as far as the amount of space I have in my HAF 922. I don't mind it taking up hard drive bays, but as long as I'm 100% sure that It will fit and function without too much of a hassle in my mid sized case, I'll be fine.


As long as you have mountings for 2 120mm fans side by side you can fit an RX240 rad. If you have mountings for 3 120mm fans side by side you can mount an RX360 rad. If your case doesn't have predrilled holes for side by side 120mm fans then yes, there will be some modding issues.

I'm with you -- I'd want to keep the hassle to a minimum. If the case only has pre drilled fan mounts for single 120mm fans I think it would be best to use single 120mm radiators as long as there was more than one.


----------



## replin

Hey watercooling noob here, I have a few questions. I just upgraded my system completely and I got a p67 mb from asus with a the new core i7 2600k and I bought the XSPC 360 kit. I didnt know how to guide the tubes so I connected the pump going to the rad, then I connected the lower pump connection to the cpu block, and I'm currently waiting for my gpu blocks to arrive this week and my second gtx 570 so I can run 2 gpu blocks. I will be running the other part of the rad to the top of the video card which will connect to the other video card then from the vid card to the cpu and back to the res. Is this wrong? If so I will have to buy more tubing cause its impossible to get the tube off.

Also will the XSPC gpu blocks come with those adapters to daisy chain the cards or is that separate? Also there are 2 slots standing between both video card slots, will the adapter reach?

MB: Asus P8P67 EVO, running in a Cooler Master HAF 932 case. I need help.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Interesting. Could be a bubble, or the pump. Make sure it's not vibrating coming through the *screws and into the case*.



A-ha! Simplicity. The HAF 922 uses a "pin" system (not a screw) to secure drives in place. This will never give it the sturdiness of a screw. I will look into this this evening when I get home from work.

Thanks for the idea!


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Hey watercooling noob here, I have a few questions. I just upgraded my system completely and I got a p67 mb from asus with a the new core i7 2600k and I bought the XSPC 360 kit. I didnt know how to guide the tubes so I connected the pump going to the rad, then I connected the lower pump connection to the cpu block, and I'm currently waiting for my gpu blocks to arrive this week and my second gtx 570 so I can run 2 gpu blocks. I will be running the other part of the rad to the top of the video card which will connect to the other video card then from the vid card to the cpu and back to the res. Is this wrong? If so I will have to buy more tubing cause its impossible to get the tube off.

Also will the XSPC gpu blocks come with those adapters to daisy chain the cards or is that separate? Also there are 2 slots standing between both video card slots, will the adapter reach?

MB: Asus P8P67 EVO, running in a Cooler Master HAF 932 case. I need help.


IMO, if you are planning on running two video cards and a i7 CPU, i would say you may need something more than just a rasa kit. Most likely a new pump and another radiator. Primarily because with two video cards and a cpu that adds lots of resistance, and also the three of those will add lots of extra heat which is why you probably need another radiator. You could get another radiator, but that adds more resistance to a already restricted loop.

I would recommend getting two radiators and connecting in this order.. reservoir>pump>rad1>cpu>rad2>gpu1>gpu2>and back to the reservoir


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


IMO, if you are planning on running two video cards and a i7 CPU, i would say you may need something more than just a rasa kit. Most likely a new pump and another radiator. Primarily because with two video cards and a cpu that adds lots of resistance, and also the three of those will add lots of extra heat which is why you probably need another radiator. You could get another radiator, but that adds more resistance to a already restricted loop.

I would recommend getting two radiators and connecting in this order.. reservoir>pump>rad1>cpu>rad2>gpu1>gpu2>and back to the reservoir


He has a 2600k lol those things run cold on air gives him alot of extra head room. Aslong as his loop is not real long the pump should be fine but also hes going to be cooling fermis so their hot cards if he got the rx360 kit he should be fine the rs360 maybe not as its a smaller rad.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Hey watercooling noob here, I have a few questions. I just upgraded my system completely and I got a p67 mb from asus with a the new core i7 2600k and I bought the XSPC 360 kit. I didnt know how to guide the tubes so I connected the pump going to the rad, then I connected the lower pump connection to the cpu block, and I'm currently waiting for my gpu blocks to arrive this week and my second gtx 570 so I can run 2 gpu blocks. I will be running the other part of the rad to the top of the video card which will connect to the other video card then from the vid card to the cpu and back to the res. Is this wrong? If so I will have to buy more tubing cause its impossible to get the tube off.

Also will the XSPC gpu blocks come with those adapters to daisy chain the cards or is that separate? Also there are 2 slots standing between both video card slots, will the adapter reach?

MB: Asus P8P67 EVO, running in a Cooler Master HAF 932 case. I need help.


Your cards run a bit hotter than mine, but my cpu runs a bit hotter than yours. I may have slightly more wattage to displace, but your cooling requirments should be pretty similar to mine. With a rx360 and rs240 with 1500rpm fans attached to them in pull, I got ~45c at load on both cards an ~60 load on my i7 at 4.2ghz. I'd bet with just a single rx360, you should see cooler cpu loads than me as your card runs cooler than mine, but you will probably see higher cpu temps.


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Hey watercooling noob here, I have a few questions. I just upgraded my system completely and I got a p67 mb from asus with a the new core i7 2600k and I bought the XSPC 360 kit. I didnt know how to guide the tubes so I connected the pump going to the rad, then I connected the lower pump connection to the cpu block, and I'm currently waiting for my gpu blocks to arrive this week and my second gtx 570 so I can run 2 gpu blocks. I will be running the other part of the rad to the top of the video card which will connect to the other video card then from the vid card to the cpu and back to the res. Is this wrong? If so I will have to buy more tubing cause its impossible to get the tube off.

Also will the XSPC gpu blocks come with those adapters to daisy chain the cards or is that separate? Also there are 2 slots standing between both video card slots, will the adapter reach?

MB: Asus P8P67 EVO, running in a Cooler Master HAF 932 case. I need help.


You'll need a separate adapter to connect the waterblocks. Search for Danger Den Crossfire Kit and you'll get what you need.

As far as radiator power goes you should be fine on a single RX360 as long as you are using 1500+ RPM fans. The pump will be totally fine, don't worry about it. It's actually a pretty strong pump and GPU blocks don't add much restriction anyways.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Puzzle complete......


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Hey watercooling noob here, I have a few questions. I just upgraded my system completely and I got a p67 mb from asus with a the new core i7 2600k and I bought the XSPC 360 kit. I didnt know how to guide the tubes so I connected the pump going to the rad, then I connected the lower pump connection to the cpu block, and I'm currently waiting for my gpu blocks to arrive this week and my second gtx 570 so I can run 2 gpu blocks. I will be running the other part of the rad to the top of the video card which will connect to the other video card then from the vid card to the cpu and back to the res. Is this wrong? If so I will have to buy more tubing cause its impossible to get the tube off.

Also will the XSPC gpu blocks come with those adapters to daisy chain the cards or is that separate? Also there are 2 slots standing between both video card slots, will the adapter reach?

MB: Asus P8P67 EVO, running in a Cooler Master HAF 932 case. I need help.


 As far as the tubing goes, I would recommend upgrading that anyway. The tubing that came with my kit was hazy and translucent looking. It isn't a very high quality tubing as it doesn't really hold it's shape very well in bends.

The only other tubing I have for comparison is Thermochill proflex and the thermochill tubing is much better in appearance and quality.

I dont think the order really matters overall but usually the tubing goes res/pump>rad>CPU block>GPU's back to res/pump.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Puzzle complete......




If your buying that mounting kit for that rad, you got the wrong one. The rx360 rad takes 6-32 screws. Not a big deal, you can just get some 6-32 at a hardware store or you may have some...


----------



## DullBoi

Hi all, correct me if I'm wrong, but would a XSPC Res with a MCP 655-b give me better cooling performance over my current X2O?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


If your buying that mounting kit for that rad, you got the wrong one. The rx360 rad takes 6-32 screws. Not a big deal, you can just get some 6-32 at a hardware store or you may have some...










yea, i have an electricians screw kit, from 1/8 in long up to 3 in long, 6/32.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DullBoi*


Hi all, correct me if I'm wrong, but would a XSPC Res with a MCP 655-b give me better cooling performance over my current X2O?











depends on how many blocks you're running. Flow doesn't matter so much if it stays above a certain gph. But if your blocks are restrictive, or you're running 2-4 blocks and a rad, then I would think it would negate SOME improvement. But how much is the question, and is 2c really worth the money it would take to switch?


----------



## mbudden

This might be a epic noob question.
But how do you mount shrouds infront or your fans? I cut up a few lame fans and made shrouds... But I don't know how to mount them. I'm assuming I need super long screws to go through both the fan and shroud?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


This might be a epic noob question.
But how do you mount shrouds infront or your fans? I cut up a few lame fans and made shrouds... But I don't know how to mount them. I'm assuming I need super long screws to go through both the fan and shroud?


yep, it takes approx 2 1/4 in screws which are HARD to find in 6/32., I bought some 3 in screws, and cut them down to size.


----------



## kingofyo1

yep, sure do.. excessively long screws mbuddy

well jone, it also depends on the thickness of the shroud and of the fan. If he's got 25mm fan and shroud, he'd need approx a 55mm long screw, if he's got a 25mm shroud and 38mm fan, etc etc


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


yep, it takes approx 2 1/4 in screws which are HARD to find in 6/32., I bought some 3 in screws, and cut them down to size.


Ah okay.







Thanks.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


yep, sure do.. excessively long screws mbuddy

well jone, it also depends on the thickness of the shroud and of the fan. If he's got 25mm fan and shroud, he'd need approx a 55mm long screw, if he's got a 25mm shroud and 38mm fan, etc etc


Interesting. The shrouds I have are the same size as the fans that came with the kit. So I'm assuming 38mm since I believe 25mm is the smaller fans used for like heatsinks etc.


----------



## kingofyo1

so then you'll need to add up the mm sizes of the shroud and fans, then add a couple mm for good measure, convert that to inches and remember 6-32 size ^^


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


A-ha! Simplicity. The HAF 922 uses a "pin" system (not a screw) to secure drives in place. This will never give it the sturdiness of a screw. I will look into this this evening when I get home from work.

Thanks for the idea!


(sigh)

Did everything I could think of and nada...

I checked the whole system. What I have done so far is:

1) Shake the computer case and tilt it in every possible safe angle. The only bubbles that were released was from the radiator (top, external mount). I was able to follow the bubbles into the reservoir and as far as I could see, they never entered the pump assembly.

2) Checked the screws attaching the reservoir to the computer case bay unit to insure they were sufficiently tightened. I also loosened the screws and removed the reservoir from the bay. The noise is definetly from the reservoir/pump. I gently shook and tilted it a bit (insuring no air went into the pump intake to no effect.

3) I observed the location of the silver coils within the reservoir and their location does not affect the noise level or intensity at any time.

During all of this the noise remained constant. This leads me to believe that this is a matter of the pump probably not installed tightly enough within the reservoir or a loose impeller maybe. The noise is definetly "plastic against plastic" and at a high rate of speed. I will take a video this evening when I get home to send to XSPC (already in contact with Dazhong [the designer] and he requested the video). I was not able to do so at lunch time since there was a lot of backround noise going on (some neighbors were mowing their lawns). I will take the video this evening when it is quiet and post it.

Also contacted Jab Tech and they assured me that if XSPC didn't take care of me that they would intervene on my behalf if need be.

Nothing better than being in good hands.


----------



## Zaiber

How long does the kit take to install for someone new to watercooling?

I finally have everything here to install it but I'm sick and feel awful and I'd like to know if I could get it done by today.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Couple hours


----------



## Electric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12037708*
> Gahhhhhh... All installed. All working. Just have this nagging "vibration" noise from the reservoir/pump. Just started today. Yesterday worked like a charm.
> 
> Will do a bit of shaking tomorrow to see if its a bubble in the pump but i doubt it.
> 
> Ideas?


Hmm.. So you got the RS360 kit installed in your CM HAF 922?

Can you explain how you fit it all in there? I have been wondering as to how I am going to be able to fit a triple rad setup in my 922.


----------



## dembo1305

Mine came in the other day and I am having problems getting it installed.. I got the CPU block and the pump/res installed. But I can't fine any screws long enough to attach the fans to the rad, and once i get that i'm not sure how to attach it to my case! Its a phantom and I have seen people add them in, but i'm I don't seem to have enough or the right screws that I need..

Can anyone help?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12046506*
> Hmm.. So you got the RS360 kit installed in your CM HAF 922?
> 
> Can you explain how you fit it all in there? I have been wondering as to how I am going to be able to fit a triple rad setup in my 922.


I thk jam has a rx360 in a 922 or 930.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12046601*
> Mine came in the other day and I am having problems getting it installed.. I got the CPU block and the pump/res installed. But I can't fine any screws long enough to attach the fans to the rad, and once i get that i'm not sure how to attach it to my case! Its a phantom and I have seen people add them in, but i'm I don't seem to have enough or the right screws that I need..
> 
> Can anyone help?


What do you mean?


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12046690*
> What do you mean?


the screws that i found were too short to reach through the fans and to the radiator.. perhaps I can fine some with some of the other parts.. ill have too look.

but still how can I mount it in the top of my case?


----------



## kingofyo1

look in the rad box on one of the walls hidden behind some cardboar to find the right screws


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12046506*
> Hmm.. So you got the RS360 kit installed in your CM HAF 922?
> 
> Can you explain how you fit it all in there? I have been wondering as to how I am going to be able to fit a triple rad setup in my 922.


Check out my pics. I mounted the RX 360 externally at the back and side of my HAF 922, interior is very clean with the return tubing from rad running behind MB and out grommet at the top. Used compression fitting and a couple of 45 degree angles from the CPU. Happy with the result!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaiber;12046015*
> How long does the kit take to install for someone new to watercooling?
> 
> I finally have everything here to install it but I'm sick and feel awful and I'd like to know if I could get it done by today.


Took me about 4 hours to get it the way I wanted (remove H50 set-up etc). Let me know your before and after temps. For my 965 C3 at 4.020 Ghz, 1.5 volts the before at 20 C ambient was 29 C idle and 55 C max temp after 3 hours of Prime 95. The after was 27 C idle and 41 C max temp after 3 hours of Prime 95. I was recently able to get a stable 24/7 overclock to 4.14 Ghz at 1.55 volts. Idle is now 28 C and 44 C max temp after 3 hours Prime 95.


----------



## ablearcher

Add me to the rs120rasa 450 kit owners club







. I hope to fit it into my sg05 setup!


----------



## mbudden

I will add people when the servers calm down.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12046738*
> the screws that i found were too short to reach through the fans and to the radiator.. perhaps I can fine some with some of the other parts.. ill have too look.
> 
> but still how can I mount it in the top of my case?


These are easy to miss. The proper screws are sandwiched between two small pieces of cardboard that look like packing material. I almost threw mine out.


----------



## koven

i'll be joining this club soon, picked up the RS240 kit for my folding rig, should be up by this weekend









water cooling... so addictive


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;12046767*
> look in the rad box on one of the walls hidden behind some cardboar to find the right screws


Thanks, i'm glad I asked this before I threw the box away!
Maybe now I can make some progress...

I'll try and post pictures when I'm done putting it together!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electric;12046506*
> Hmm.. So you got the RS360 kit installed in your CM HAF 922?
> 
> Can you explain how you fit it all in there? I have been wondering as to how I am going to be able to fit a triple rad setup in my 922.


Not inside. I have it externally mounted on top. Tried on back but the tubing would kink to much. Need to get better quality tubing (am using the supplied tubing at present).

BUT... this guy did mount a 360 internally!!!

Triggs build log here. Hope it helps! It's my inspiration for a future build.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaiber;12046015*
> How long does the kit take to install for someone new to watercooling?
> 
> I finally have everything here to install it but I'm sick and feel awful and I'd like to know if I could get it done by today.


The actual install took me about an hour. Of course, I had everything all planned out beforehand...down to the last screw I would need for the last fan. Give yourself about two hours to have it all installed, checked, filled and then runnning a leak test. If done properly, you should have it all in on the first try.

A lot of fun to be honest.


----------



## man00

I spent the most time finding the correct screws for the rad/fans, I mounted mine on the outside using a Radbox.


----------



## Zaiber

My radiator seems to bump with my RAM and one of the mobos power connectors. wanted to mount it on the top but it seems like this won't be possible. Any help?


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12042964*
> depends on how many blocks you're running. Flow doesn't matter so much if it stays above a certain gph. But if your blocks are restrictive, or you're running 2-4 blocks and a rad, then I would think it would negate SOME improvement. But how much is the question, and is 2c really worth the money it would take to switch?


Oh my just 2c, I have Ek FC5970 + FC5850 + Black Ice GTS X flow 120mm + RS240, only thought I'd upgrade since the normal pump may not make it after a few months/year, with all these blocks and rads. I also plan on adding a RX360 in about a month or so.









Thanks for the response


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaiber;12048349*
> My radiator seems to bump with my RAM and one of the mobos power connectors. wanted to mount it on the top but it seems like this won't be possible. Any help?


How tight lol mine was so tight i had to pull it up and then screw it in so i had a few mm of space to put ram in lol. You see by my photo my rad is over my ram tabs lol but theirs a few mm of space to push them down to take ram out.


----------



## Zaiber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12048458*
> How tight lol mine was so tight i had to pull it up and then screw it in so i had a few mm of space to put ram in lol. You see by my photo my rad is over my ram tabs lol but theirs a few mm of space to push them down to take ram out.


is that a push pull or just a push?


----------



## wermad

wow, mcp355 runs hot







, adding a fan to help it stay cool


----------



## kingofyo1

Ok so I'm kinda perplexed at my temps.. When I dropped my cpu voltage to 1.4, I got a few degrees drop outta it.. I'm wondering if I should drop my northbridge voltage and speed down as well to get even more, or keep it at 2800? opinions?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Keep it at 2800. Are your temps acceptable now or too high for your liking? As long as they're good, MOAR [email protected]! Hell, raise your cpu back up son.


----------



## chano305

Hi all,

Just finished putting my kit together









got a Rasa RS240, and added a Razor GTX 580 block and a RX120 as well. A bit ambitious for my first time but no catastrophes so far....

Quick question though.. my pump hums/rattles. Loud enough to hear over, well, everything in my system. Loud enough to hear 15 feet away.

Is this normal? I'm guessing no.. should I wait it out, see if it gets better, or should I contact XSPC? Did I somehow mount it wrong?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;12050606*
> Hi all,
> 
> Just finished putting my kit together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got a Rasa RS240, and added a Razor GTX 580 block and a RX120 as well. A bit ambitious for my first time but no catastrophes so far....
> 
> Quick question though.. my pump hums/rattles. Loud enough to hear over, well, everything in my system. Loud enough to hear 15 feet away.
> 
> Is this normal? I'm guessing no.. should I wait it out, see if it gets better, or should I contact XSPC? Did I somehow mount it wrong?


probably just air in the system, takes about 5 days to a week to bleed it all out. Take your time, be patient, and if it still makes the noise this time next week, xspc will send you another one.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Keep it at 2800. Are your temps acceptable now or too high for your liking? As long as they're good, MOAR [email protected]! Hell, raise your cpu back up son.


I would, but apparently I've been reading my cpu temp wrong all along  apparently as i said we're supposed to read from the cpu not core.. >.< so I may be RMA'ing soon trololol


----------



## replin

Hey thanks a lot, the guy at frozencpu helped me out in choosing stuff. I bought primochill liquid, primochill primoflex pro, koolance flow meter and adapter, koolance sli fitting for up to 3 slots extension, 2 uv bulbs, and primochill nylon clamps. I will be up and running by friday, hopefulliy thursday. I will post pics when I'm done. I'm running the RX360 by the way and a haf 932. I'm using only 4 screws for the top of the case into the radiator its all i could find, was there supposed to be more? I just found out i can screw in the 230mm fan onto the top of the case and get a push/pull scenario. So i will have the 3 fans below and the big 230mm on top.

Can I use the stock fans it came with and just run the 230mm on top or should I buy scythe s-flex fans?


----------



## fr0st.

Guess what I just ordered.


----------



## Zaiber

Finally got my new case intalled and the RS240 Kit in it. It is right now being leak tested, so I'll post up pics of the system after I finish it (and after I finish my cable management).


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Hey thanks a lot, the guy at frozencpu helped me out in choosing stuff. I bought primochill liquid, primochill primoflex pro, koolance flow meter and adapter, koolance sli fitting for up to 3 slots extension, 2 uv bulbs, and primochill nylon clamps. I will be up and running by friday, hopefulliy thursday. I will post pics when I'm done. I'm running the RX360 by the way and a haf 932. I'm using only 4 screws for the top of the case into the radiator its all i could find, was there supposed to be more? I just found out i can screw in the 230mm fan onto the top of the case and get a push/pull scenario. So i will have the 3 fans below and the big 230mm on top.

Can I use the stock fans it came with and just run the 230mm on top or should I buy scythe s-flex fans?


well just an fyi, you should tell them to cancel the primochill liquid order. Thats just a waste of money. Get distilled water and a kill coil instead. Lot less hassle and pain.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chano305*


Hi all,

Just finished putting my kit together









got a Rasa RS240, and added a Razor GTX 580 block and a RX120 as well. A bit ambitious for my first time but no catastrophes so far....

Quick question though.. my pump hums/rattles. Loud enough to hear over, well, everything in my system. Loud enough to hear 15 feet away.

Is this normal? I'm guessing no.. should I wait it out, see if it gets better, or should I contact XSPC? Did I somehow mount it wrong?


I am having a similar issue. If it is sounding something like this, I am working with XSPC (in China) and my vendor to get this resolved. May have an answer by tomorrow.

Video.


----------



## kingofyo1

If you just set the loop up, you'll hear a rattling in the pump until you manage to get all the bubbles out. This can be done by shaking the case, tilting it, hitting the res, vibrating it, etc etc. Basically, you've got a stubborn air bubble or 20 in there that don't feel like making their way out, and you're chopping water at a high rate of speed because of it. Make sure your res is filled up as much as you can and that the plug is on as tight as possible with a good O-ring seal before tilting the case ^)^


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


If you just set the loop up, you'll hear a rattling in the pump until you manage to get all the bubbles out. This can be done by shaking the case, tilting it, hitting the res, vibrating it, etc etc. Basically, you've got a stubborn air bubble or 20 in there that don't feel like making their way out, and you're chopping water at a high rate of speed because of it. Make sure your res is filled up as much as you can and that the plug is on as tight as possible with a good O-ring seal before tilting the case ^)^


Done that BUT you know what? Will try that again this evening. There is one angle that I have not attempted yet which may dislodge any stubborn bubble... Upside down!

Will report back accordingly.


----------



## ablearcher

@ haf932 guy

Yea, there is a third mount. Two screws near the "middle" fan mount, other two under the rubber pad.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rmp459*


Would anyone here that owns a RS240 please take a couple measurements for me? (in millimeters please.)

Im really trying to see if i can work this ran into the intake on my lian li pc-9f or if I am going to have to go external with it.

Thanks











Sorry I'm a little late on this. I've taken the measurements... my numbers don't fully add up though. 
Large end tank (fittings side): 24mm
Small end tank: 8mm
Fan mount area: 242mm
Total: 274mm

But when I measure end-to-end, I get 275mm. Manufacturer listing says 277mm. 
Note: I'm using razorblades attached to the ends of the rad and a standard measuring tape to measure the spacing between them.

Edit: I can't tell if end-to-end is 274 or 275. That 1mm difference could be attributed to the fact that I do not have steady hands :/
Edit again: Got my sister to read one end while I held it at the other. Definitely 274mm end to end length
And that 1mm change screws up all the calculations I did last night :/


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Im not sure i can recommend any xspc product anymore after taking my block apart and seeing how it was put together they left glue or some crap in it. This is really pissing me off now when you look at reviews their blocks dont have that crap glued to the block and look clean.










review 1
http://www.overclockerstech.com/xspc...lock-review/2/
review 2
http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=1013&page=3
review 3
http://www.xsreviews.co.uk/reviews/m...-waterblock/3/


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Im not sure i can recommend any xspc product anymore after taking my block apart and seeing how it was put together they left glue or some crap in it.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/407/ugglyblock.jpg[IMG]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Reminds me of NVSpec's XFX card. Manufacturing residue?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12053600*
> Im not sure i can recommend any xspc product anymore after taking my block apart and seeing how it was put together they left glue or some crap in it.


That almost looks like Indigo Extreme thermal paste or something.


----------



## sgilmore62

Did you notice any better performance after cleaning it off? Think it could be normal scaling buildup from the minute impurities in the distilled water? It looks a lot worse than it probably is because of the scale of the photos and the white particles against the copper block. I bet if you added up the weight of all those particles it would be a lot smaller amount than the photo suggests.

Could it be PTNuke buildup?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12052139*
> Done that BUT you know what? Will try that again this evening. There is one angle that I have not attempted yet which may dislodge any stubborn bubble... Upside down!
> 
> Will report back accordingly.


Just heard back from XSPC. They are sending me a replacement. Will update later...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12053725*
> Did you notice any better performance after cleaning it off? Think it could be normal scaling buildup from the minute impurities in the distilled water? It looks a lot worse than it probably is because of the scale of the photos and the white particles against the copper block. I bet if you added up the weight of all those particles it would be a lot smaller amount than the photo suggests.
> 
> Could it be PTNuke buildup?


its some sorta glue its not from water if you look the glue is on the seal which is suppose to be in the inlet not glued to the block. I didnt use any ptnuke only distilled water and silver coil.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12053724*
> That almost looks like Indigo Extreme thermal paste or something.


I never used that and none of my paste is even white lol and the block was green and brown cant really tell from the photo. Heres what it looks like after i cleaned it with some water/vinager and ketchup makeing sure to put it back in water and can aired sprayed it of the water and nanything left in it.


----------



## chano305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12053740*
> Just heard back from XSPC. They are sending me a replacement. Will update later...


Are they sending a replacement without you having to send yours first? I contacted support, they told me to send mine in so they can check it, then they'll send me a replacement if needed. But that'll take my computer out of commission for who knows how long...


----------



## Kahbrohn

From that pix it now looks like a deformed o-ring. The previous pix looked silvery to me (old eyes... what can I say!).


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;12053819*
> Are they sending a replacement without you having to send yours first? I contacted support, they told me to send mine in so they can check it, then they'll send me a replacement if needed. But that'll take my computer out of commission for who knows how long...


They haven't asked for a return yet. Now, I did tell them that my system is funcional at this time so they may be sending me a return ticket for the sick unit along with the replacement. But if not, I will ask if they want it back. If they say no, then I may bring out the old trusty Dremmel and open it up to see what the problem was. I am curious...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea the o-ring aint even the right size lol for the inlet i managed to get it in but just barely. Photos below show how it should of been lol not this crap see how the block has no glue lol and the o-ring is in the inside the inlet not glued to the block.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12053879*
> yea the o-ring aint even the right size lol for the inlet i managed to get it in but just barely. Photos below show how it should of been lol not this crap see how the block has no glue lol and the o-ring is in the inside the inlet not glued to the block.


Someone in manufacturing was not quicker than the infamous "snap-back o-ring"!!! Must have been a hell of a previous night that person had before assembling your block.

The "snap-back o-ring" is ONLY bested by Mrs. Kah's "whirlwind frying pan"! I see that whenever I come home extra late!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea so they just glued it to the block filling up the channels water is suppose to go thru and cool the cpu lol. This has me so pissed off i hope i get better temps cleaning it up and maybe xspc will send me a working block.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12053924*
> yea so they just glued it to the block filling up the channels water is suppose to go thru and cool the cpu lol. This has me so pissed off i hope i get better temps cleaning it up and maybe xspc will send me a working block.


I hope so too... But hey. A learning experience. Now you know how its built on the inside. You have a bum block... I have a bum pump. I'll post pix of it once I operate on it (assuming the replacement works perfectly fine and I am not asked to return the other one).


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea lol but somthing this big never shoulda made it to a custimer i can understand a pump its electronics parts have issues but my issue a human had to be lazy and just said screw it we will just glue it on and be done.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


yea lol but somthing this big never shoulda made it to a custimer i can understand a pump its electronics parts have issues but my issue a human had to be lazy and just said screw it we will just glue it on and be done.


True... True...

Everytime I hear my pump I feel its time to feed the fish.


----------



## dembo1305

Which thermal paste is better? The stuff that comes with it or AS5. thats all I have but I don't know what the stuff that comes with it is


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


Which thermal paste is better? The stuff that comes with it or AS5. thats all I have but I don't know what the stuff that comes with it is


I am inclined to say the AS5. It has been said that the included paste is good enough to get the job done but go higher end TIM's for even better numbers... AS5 being among them yet.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i like shin-etsu it was the best on water blocks at skineelabs but i tried them all befor and didnt help me but my block is screwed up so thats probly why maybe after my bubbles bleed i will get better temps.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I am inclined to say the AS5. It has been said that the included paste is good enough to get the job done but go higher end TIM's for even better numbers... AS5 being among them yet.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


i like shin-etsu it was the best on water blocks at skineelabs but i tried them all befor and didnt help me but my block is screwed up so thats probly why maybe after my bubbles bleed i will get better temps.


So would the overall verdict be that other than buying more paste I am probably better off to just use my AS5? Some manufacturers will include some decent paste with their products so I didn't know what came with this one..


----------



## Bal3Wolf

as5 should work fine might have to try differt ways putting it on till you find what works best.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


as5 should work fine might have to try differt ways putting it on till you find what works best.


Alright I'll go with my AS5. Just wanted to make sure the stuff that came with it wasn't slightly better.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

if my problems are sorted i will try them all again to get my best temps tho i dont have any as5 now i was borrowing some befor to try. I hope xspc will send me a new block and it will work right and get good temps cause this one even clean does not seem to be working much better i do have alot of bubbles tho.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


if my problems are sorted i will try them all again to get my best temps tho i dont have any as5 now i was borrowing some befor to try. I hope xspc will send me a new block and it will work right and get good temps cause this one even clean does not seem to be working much better i do have alot of bubbles tho.


I still have to get some water for mine.. And i'll order the kill coil probably today or tomorrow..


----------



## mbudden

Any new members that posted pics so I can add?


----------



## man00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chano305*


Are they sending a replacement without you having to send yours first? I contacted support, they told me to send mine in so they can check it, then they'll send me a replacement if needed. But that'll take my computer out of commission for who knows how long...


Same thing they told me about my pump send it in they check it out. I mean thats about all they have to do but think I will take another route buy else where.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


So would the overall verdict be that other than buying more paste I am probably better off to just use my AS5? Some manufacturers will include some decent paste with their products so I didn't know what came with this one..


Unless you really do want to buy new/better paste. Not much option other than Shin Etsu x23-7783D (some say hard to apply) and Indigo Extreme (expensive and not easy to reflow on an AMD chip). Others will be around the same numbers as the AS5. I'd say use up your AS5 and take it from there.


----------



## dembo1305

Ok how do I tell which is the in and which is the out on the radiator?


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12056600*
> Ok how do I tell which is the in and which is the out on the radiator?


It doesnt matter, Both ports can be used as a inlet and a outlet


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangeltveit;12056618*
> It doesnt matter, Both ports can be used as a inlet and a outlet


Alright thanks.. +rep


----------



## Zaiber

This is a really bad pic, but this is how it turned out!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaiber;12056907*
> This is a really bad pic, but this is how it turned out!


Nice... now change your sig!!! Still says H50.


----------



## Zaiber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12056971*
> Nice... now change your sig!!! Still says H50.


Done!


----------



## jam3s

I love the look of those anti-kink coils you got on there.

Looking good brother


----------



## dembo1305

Alrighty, I've got my kit up and going, still leak testing right now. So far so good. If it works I should have temps that are a lot better!

Will post pics when it's all done!


----------



## Zaiber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;12057026*
> I love the look of those anti-kink coils you got on there.
> 
> Looking good brother


Thanks, I actually spent a lot of time doing the cable management. I switched from a 690 to a 690 II while doing the water cooling and it took a long time to get everything set up.

Only thing I don't like are those sata cables.


----------



## thrasherht

Cable management on the Phantom = Win.


----------



## AMOCO

If anyone needs extra Fan/Rad. screws.I found them at Home Depot(Couldn't find them on there website,But did find in store).
Here are the size(Crown Bolt #6-32 x 1-1/4")


----------



## Coolio831

I forgot to rinse my rad out, now 1 week later, i see what looks like backwashed food in my res, its little small particles of something..

Will the loop be ok, if it stays like that for 2 more weeks, till i get my SB set up? My temps are fine, 4ghz full load-46C.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831;12057496*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to rinse my rad out, now 1 week later, i see what looks like backwashed food in my res, its little small particles of something..
> 
> Will the loop be ok, if it stays like that for 2 more weeks, till i get my SB set up? My temps are fine, 4ghz full load-46C.


I ran mine for a while without rinsing my rad, it ended up making my clear tubing that came with the kit turn into white-ish colored tubing.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12057515*
> I ran mine for a while without rinsing my rad, it ended up making my clear tubing that came with the kit turn into white-ish colored tubing.


Yes, i noticed my tubes are not 100% clear.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831;12057539*
> Yes, i noticed my tubes are not 100% clear.


i would clean it asap,unless your gonna buy new tubing too.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Everything will be here Thursday. Can't wait to be able to use my video card again. YES!!!! Super Uber excited, I really do love upgrading, I have Christmas like 6 times a year.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12057679*
> i would clean it asap,unless your gonna buy new tubing too.


With SB 2 weeks away, i'll just order new hoses. I do know i'll have to take apart the water block to rinse it out right, or hook up garden hose to a fitting and blast the block with water?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831;12057724*
> With SB 2 weeks away, i'll just order new hoses. I do know i'll have to take apart the water block to rinse it out right, or hook up garden hose to a fitting and blast the block with water?


I would highly recommend taking your block apart, when i opened mine, it was full of junk and debris that would have never come out without taking it apart.


----------



## JMCB

I didn't rinse my radiator out and my tubing is turning greenish. Do you think this would cause a problem? Temp wise I'm good. Water in the res looks clear though, and I have a silver kilcoil in there, so it shouldn't be algae.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12057749*
> I would highly recommend taking your block apart, when i opened mine, it was full of junk and debris that would have never come out without taking it apart.


Lol was yours this bad and was your seal on the block or the intel ?


----------



## Coolio831

aww thats nasty there.. Is that seal suppose to be there?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

no lol not from all the reivews i found whoever put my block together glued it to the block lol.


----------



## Coolio831

Thats EPIC facepalm for me right there.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMCB;12057816*
> I didn't rinse my radiator out and my tubing is turning greenish. Do you think this would cause a problem? Temp wise I'm good. Water in the res looks clear though, and I have a silver kilcoil in there, so it shouldn't be algae.


I highly recommend you abort and check why your water turned green. It can't be good.


----------



## GoodInk

Dang guys, I was gone for 4 days and there are 30 pages!

Anyways upgrade time! Not all over these are going in my Scout. Now you know why you can't ever find GT-15's


----------



## dembo1305

Alright so before I got this kit my temps with an A70 corsair cooler were about 85-90C at 4.01 at 1.2875v.. now at that same clock they have came down to about 67C.. Is this normal. It dropped the temperatures but they still seem high in comparison to others..

Ambients are 73F about 21-22C.. Any ideas why my temps would be so high in the first place? I have a nzxt phantom case..


----------



## Coolio831

Here are my temps. I say not bad for forgetting to flush the dang thing..

Edit: Add 10C to the core temps in HWMonitor. I usually go by TMPIN0.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12058316*
> Alright so before I got this kit my temps with an A70 corsair cooler were about 85-90C at 4.01 at 1.2875v.. now at that same clock they have came down to about 67C.. Is this normal. It dropped the temperatures but they still seem high in comparison to others..
> 
> Ambients are 73F about 21-22C.. Any ideas why my temps would be so high in the first place? I have a nzxt phantom case..


Dropped 20c and your asking if something is wrong?!?!? Normal is between 10-15c. Yours is 20c+, be SUPER HAPPY lol.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12058365*
> Dropped 20c and your asking if something is wrong?!?!? Normal is between 10-15c. Yours is 20c+, be SUPER HAPPY lol.


Yeah i'm glad they have dropped that much, but I was hoping they would drop further..

67C was after about 10 minutes of prime95.. So it's bound to get up into the 70s

How are people giving the 6 core CPUs 1.47v and getting a max temp of around 36-40C???


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12058316*
> Alright so before I got this kit my temps with an A70 corsair cooler were about 85-90C at 4.01 at 1.2875v.. now at that same clock they have came down to about 67C.. Is this normal. It dropped the temperatures but they still seem high in comparison to others..
> 
> Ambients are 73F about 21-22C.. Any ideas why my temps would be so high in the first place? I have a nzxt phantom case..


If you don't have your rad fans on intake, you could drop more if you flip them.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12058400*
> Yeah i'm glad they have dropped that much, but I was hoping they would drop further..
> 
> 67C was after about 10 minutes of prime95.. So it's bound to get up into the 70s
> 
> How are people giving the 6 core CPUs 1.47v and getting a max temp of around 36-40C???


Everyone's situation is different. Some of those guys have their radiators sitting in the window next to their machine pulling in below freezing air. Some have external mounted rads, like me, and get better temps than most with internal mounted rads. Some have 3000cfm fans in push pull.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12058469*
> Everyone's situation is different. Some of those guys have their radiators sitting in the window next to their machine pulling in below freezing air. Some have external mounted rads, like me, and get better temps than most with internal mounted rads. Some have 3000cfm fans in push pull.


Good point, but I was still hoping that I could push it further.. I was hoping for around 4.2....

And to the other guy, my fans are on intake and are exhausting right out the top of my case and all my other fans are set to intake...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well after taking my block apart and a few remounts i got pretty decent temps i thk for my i7 with its vcore note paste needs to break in and im full of bubbles still to.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Looking good Bal3


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12058868*
> Well after taking my block apart and a few remounts i got pretty decent temps i thk for my i7 with its vcore note paste needs to break in and im full of bubbles still to.


What are those ambients sir?







Nice temps !!

my i7 930 is quite the same, im running 202 x 21 : 4242Mhz @ 1.352v
1.3v Qpi/Uncore , RAM strangely 6-8-6-20 . what batch is that?

Cheers


----------



## Bal3Wolf

around 72-75 and my loop is still full of bubbbles and shin-etsu has a 200hr cure time so they might drop more







.


----------



## DullBoi

yar, i gotta get me that RX 360


----------



## wholeeo

What size screws is it that come with the RX360? I mounted it to the top of my case with the 4 included screws. Ideally I'd like to use all the screw holes. Also would need extras if I ever decided to do a push pull setup.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

at 4ghz good thing i tested befor cleaning my block i droped the temps 5c with a clean block.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Consult...

Which for an externally mounted rad (RS360). Just cooling the CPU at present.

Option 1) 3 x 120 x 25mm GT's? Noiseblockers?

Option 2) 3 x 120 x 38mm (recommendations)?


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> What size screws is it that come with the RX360? I mounted it to the top of my case with the 4 included screws. Ideally I'd like to use all the screw holes. Also would need extras if I ever decided to do a push pull setup.


They are 6-32 screws, not sure of the length you will have to take one out and measure it. Probably 1-1/8" for fans and 1/4" on the ones for mounting to case.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12059814*
> They are 6-32 screws, not sure of the length you will have to take one out and measure it. Probably 1-1/8" for fans and 1/4" for the ones for mounting to case.


i used #6-32 x 1-1/4" on my rad(rs360),should be the same for the rx360 rad. too.they are just to mount fans to rad.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


i used #6-32 x 1-1/4" on my rad(rs360),should be the same for the rx360 rad. too.they are just to mount fans to rad.


Thanks! Home Depot, Lowes?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wholeeo*


Thanks! Home Depot, Lowes?


home depot,the ones i got came with nuts too,all because they didn't have just the screws.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wholeeo*


Thanks! Home Depot, Lowes?


I got the 6-32 screws at home depot, but I'd be willing to bet lowes will have them too.


----------



## chano305

Was there ever an update on those pump replacements? Or are you still waiting for it to come in?

I managed to pull out my pump/res without disconnecting any tubing by unhooking some of the other stuff and just sliding it out. Pump still rattles in my hand. Pitch changed a bit cause it isn't going straight through the case but the pump itself rattles.

I updated XSPC and they insist I send my pump in first so they can test before they'll send me anything. Lame. This is my work and school pc, I can't have it down for a week. Ideas?


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


How are people giving the 6 core CPUs 1.47v and getting a max temp of around 36-40C???


AMD CPUs run cooler. Mine is at 45C full load on air.


----------



## ErBall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;12061166*
> Was there ever an update on those pump replacements? Or are you still waiting for it to come in?
> 
> I managed to pull out my pump/res without disconnecting any tubing by unhooking some of the other stuff and just sliding it out. Pump still rattles in my hand. Pitch changed a bit cause it isn't going straight through the case but the pump itself rattles.
> 
> I updated XSPC and they insist I send my pump in first so they can test before they'll send me anything. Lame. This is my work and school pc, I can't have it down for a week. Ideas?


Did you contact xspc directly. I had a bad pump too that rattled, and I sent them a video of the pump itself rattling. They shipped me out a new pump, and I had it in my hand 4 days later.

Insist they send you a new one, and shoot them a video with the bad pump.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chano305*


Was there ever an update on those pump replacements? Or are you still waiting for it to come in?

I managed to pull out my pump/res without disconnecting any tubing by unhooking some of the other stuff and just sliding it out. Pump still rattles in my hand. Pitch changed a bit cause it isn't going straight through the case but the pump itself rattles.

I updated XSPC and they insist I send my pump in first so they can test before they'll send me anything. Lame. This is my work and school pc, I can't have it down for a week. Ideas?


I just took a picture of the crack in my pump and they sent me a pump right out.


----------



## chano305

I sent the video, and they said that the noise wasn't louder than 42 dB so they couldnt just send one out.
I'd love to find out how they figured out the decibels since I recorded it using my cel phone, so the quality is pretty bad. Plus, doesn't it just depend on how loud his/her speakers were?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chano305*


I sent the video, and they said that the noise wasn't louder than 42 dB so they couldnt just send one out.
I'd love to find out how they figured out the decibels since I recorded it using my cel phone, so the quality is pretty bad. Plus, doesn't it just depend on how loud his/her speakers were?


Thats wierd lol i was wanting xspc to replace my block but now i got good temps i dont see a need for them to fix it sence i fixed it myself.


----------



## Kiekokie

hi guys..

i am new in this club..
i have some questions regarding this thread..

I am planning to buy a XSPC Rasa 450 rx120 kit for my CPU cooling..
I love its style and size, and i want to have it internal..

but i am also planning of GTX 580 water cooled, and soon to SLI it..
will a RX120 rad. can accomodate these things? i mean a CPU and SLI GPU?

Thanks in advance


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kiekokie*


hi guys..

i am new in this club..
i have some questions regarding this thread..

I am planning to buy a XSPC Rasa 450 rx120 kit for my CPU cooling..
I love its style and size, and i want to have it internal..

but i am also planning of GTX 580 water cooled, and soon to SLI it..
will a RX120 rad. can accomodate these things? i mean a CPU and SLI GPU?

Thanks in advance


for a cpu & gpu, you'll need at least a 240 for both. For sli, go w/ the RS360 or the RX360 kit.


----------



## premonition08

can i join the club?


----------



## AMOCO

i don't see why not,


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

add me too!
Attachment 191077

Attachment 191078

Attachment 191079


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kiekokie*


hi guys..

i am new in this club..
i have some questions regarding this thread..

I am planning to buy a XSPC Rasa 450 rx120 kit for my CPU cooling..
I love its style and size, and i want to have it internal..

but i am also planning of GTX 580 water cooled, and soon to SLI it..
will a RX120 rad. can accomodate these things? i mean a CPU and SLI GPU?

Thanks in advance


For a i7 your going to need a 240 atleast and for a i7 and 580 you probly want a rx360.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chano305*


Was there ever an update on those pump replacements? Or are you still waiting for it to come in?

I managed to pull out my pump/res without disconnecting any tubing by unhooking some of the other stuff and just sliding it out. Pump still rattles in my hand. Pitch changed a bit cause it isn't going straight through the case but the pump itself rattles.

I updated XSPC and they insist I send my pump in first so they can test before they'll send me anything. Lame. This is my work and school pc, I can't have it down for a week. Ideas?


Who are you in contact with? I just have an e-mail asking me for my address and tel. no. so a replacement can be sent out to me. My vendor states that I will most likely not have to send in my old pump and as such, to open it up and try to see what my pump's problem is.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ErBall*


Did you contact xspc directly. I had a bad pump too that rattled, and I sent them a video of the pump itself rattling. They shipped me out a new pump, and I had it in my hand 4 days later.

Insist they send you a new one, and *shoot them a video with the bad pump*.


That was all they asked of me... and a replacement was sent.


----------



## Kiekokie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


For a i7 your going to need a 240 atleast and for a i7 and 580 you probly want a rx360.



thanks men..this is a big help;;


----------



## Kiekokie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


for a cpu & gpu, you'll need at least a 240 for both. For sli, go w/ the RS360 or the RX360 kit.



i think i will go for 240..thanks


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *premonition08*


can i join the club?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda*


add me too!


Would you guys like to tell me which kit you have? So I can add it to the list?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


Alrighty, I've got my kit up and going, still leak testing right now. So far so good. If it works I should have temps that are a lot better!

Will post pics when it's all done!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaiber*


This is a really bad pic, but this is how it turned out!


Added you both. & added some others.


----------



## premonition08

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Would you guys like to tell me which kit you have? So I can add it to the list?


hi there. my kit is xspc rasa rx120


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chano305*


I sent the video, and they said that the noise wasn't louder than 42 dB so they couldnt just send one out.
I'd love to find out how they figured out the decibels since I recorded it using my cel phone, so the quality is pretty bad. Plus, doesn't it just depend on how loud his/her speakers were?


Try this guy [email protected]


----------



## chano305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Who are you in contact with? I just have an e-mail asking me for my address and tel. no. so a replacement can be sent out to me. My vendor states that I will most likely not have to send in my old pump and as such, to open it up and try to see what my pump's problem is.



Quote:



Try this guy [email protected]


This is exactly who I've been emailing back and forth with.

Quote:



Did you contact xspc directly. I had a bad pump too that rattled, and I sent them a video of the pump itself rattling. They shipped me out a new pump, and I had it in my hand 4 days later.

Insist they send you a new one, and shoot them a video with the bad pump.


Yeah I sent them a video from the first, and he/they claimed the noise wasn't loud enough (42dB) to warrant sending me a pump right off the bat, and that I'd have to send mine in first. I explained how this is my work and school pc and can't have it down for days on end but nothin' doin'.

I'm pretty confused how they figured the decibel level of the noise from a video taken from a cel phone camera, because I assume that the audio will largely depend on speaker volume (not to mention a REALLY bad quality recording). He'd have to have my exact phone to calibrate the audio, no? Anyhoo, ~40dB is about library-quiet, or living-room-quiet, and you can hear my pump across the room. When my AC isn't running I can just barely hear it from the next room with the door open, but thats like 20 feet away.

I'm in Texas in the US, are you guys somewhere else where they are friendlier to you? :S


----------



## Bastyn99

Hey, I just ordered the RS 240 kit, should arrive early next week







Now, is there some last minute stuff I should know ? I read that I should clean out the rad with a mix of vinegar and boiling water, and Ive ordered some MX-3 TIM to replace the one that comes with the kit, and ofc made sure to get some algae killer and distilled water. Are there any other preparations I should make, or anything I should know ? Oh and about the fans, will upgrading to 2 Gentle Typhoons make a significant difference ? and if so, which ones should I get, 1850 RPM ones or slower ones, and do they work better as push or pull, intake or exhaust ? Gonna use a CM 690 II adv case with all the extra fans I can fit.


----------



## BioII

This would be ok for my Rasa setup or i need more stuff?


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BioII*


This would be ok for my Rasa setup or i need more stuff?


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


DON'T BUY THE LIQUID! Super waste of money, just pick up some distilled water at walmart for $1.19 And you'll need about 8 feet of tubing, not 2. ANd get a killcoil.


----------



## sgilmore62

You can get ordinary distilled water for like $2 a gallon or less at a grocery store. That is everything you need for a CPU loop. You can use the plastic clamps that comes with the kit to secure the tubing. I wasn't sure they would work when I bought my PrimoFlex 1/2"ID 3/3"OD tubing so I went ahead and picked up some of the Primochill clamps.

You have to make sure those clamps are placed evenly over the barbs or they will leak. If the clamps are put on right they wont leak. If you go with 7/16"ID tubing over the 1/2" barbs it can't leak but the tubing doesn't hold it's shape as good in bends because of the thinner walls. I'm happy with my 1/2"ID 3/4"OD black PrimoFlex tubing.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



DON'T BUY THE LIQUID! Super waste of money, just pick up some distilled water at walmart for $1.19 And you'll need about 8 feet of tubing, not 2.


 Good catch! Didn't notice that! Yeah, 8' will be more than enough by a good bit but you will have plenty left over if/when you add your GPU and another rad. I bought 8' when I added my GPU and have 3'6" left over. The XSPC kit comes with 6' but I don't like the tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BioII*


This would be ok for my Rasa setup or i need more stuff?


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


switch that for a kill.coil (0.999 silver) and as others have said, get distilled from the market or pharmacy.


----------



## mbudden

You guys have to remember, not all of the people on this forum live in the US/Canada/UK. So in some places it's harder to find Distilled Water, or whatever they may call it in their respective countries. I know a guy that has the kit from Iceland, he said he looked for it in stores and he couldn't find it.


----------



## chano305

Update on my pump issue:
I contact Jab-Tech support and explained my issue and communications with XSPC and they (Jab-Tech) helped me out a ton. The tech I talked to told me they talked to XSPC and I should have a pump mailed to me soon so that I can swap them out and return mine to XSPC with a prepaid postage slip. Jab-Tech just earned themselves a devoted customer.

I'll update when the pump actually gets here, and how it all works out.

EDIT: Jab-Tech.com was were I ordered all my stuff, in case I didn't mention that before and the above didn't make that clear


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;12066411*
> Update on my pump issue:
> I contact Jab-Tech support and explained my issue and communications with XSPC and they (Jab-Tech) helped me out a ton. The tech I talked to told me they talked to XSPC and I should have a pump mailed to me soon so that I can swap them out and return mine to XSPC with a prepaid postage slip. Jab-Tech just earned themselves a devoted customer.
> 
> I'll update when the pump actually gets here, and how it all works out.
> 
> EDIT: Jab-Tech.com was were I ordered all my stuff, in case I didn't mention that before and the above didn't make that clear


You know they are selling a ton of these things, just look at how many members that have been added here since the thread was started by mbudden on Dec. 5th. They are getting $50 for the pump/res combo sold separately.

I think it is a good decision on the part of XSPC to replace the pump/res's since there appears to be a good bit of them slipping through cracks in quality control. With watercooling being so daunting to the average consumer, this kit and the comments in this thread goes a long way in reassuring first time watercooling wannabe's that it is doable. A lot of potential buyers might be scared off from watercooling if there is any doubts as to the quality of components and customer service that goes with it.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12066454*
> You know they are selling a ton of these things, just look at how many members that have been added here since the thread was started by mbudden on Dec. 5th. They are getting $50 for the pump/res combo sold separately.


Actually. I had another thread before this one. This is the Official Club thread that Kingofyo1 pressured me into making.









I already had this thread telling people about it. Here. So I have been talking about it for a while. I had noticed that people were wanting to get into watercooling and didn't know much about this kit. So basically it was either H50/70 or custom loop. So I decided to make the thread telling people about the cheap alternative to a H50/70 and a custom loop. I started it in September. So I've been talking about it for a while now.


----------



## Blameless

Got a new pump in today from XSPC. This one works flawlessly, virtually no noise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12066328*
> You guys have to remember, not all of the people on this forum live in the US/Canada/UK. So in some places it's harder to find Distilled Water, or whatever they may call it in their respective countries. I know a guy that has the kit from Iceland, he said he looked for it in stores and he couldn't find it.


Anyone with access to the internet should not have overt difficulty in finding distilled water.

It might be called something slightly different, it might not be at a "grocery store" but it's somewhere.


----------



## chano305

Yeah the Rasa kit is awesome. The only issue I had was the pump which I'm pretty sure just slipped through quality control. It was really easy to put together, and my temps are better than expected.
Once the new pump gets here and I have everything running, I'll post pics so I can join officially







I'm also waiting on changing my specs below till everything is peachy.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12066507*
> Actually. I had another thread before this one. This is the Official Club thread that Kingofyo1 pressured me into making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already had this thread telling people about it. Here. So I have been talking about it for a while. I had noticed that people were wanting to get into watercooling and didn't know much about this kit. So basically it was either H50/70 or custom loop. So I decided to make the thread telling people about the cheap alternative to a H50/70 and a custom loop. I started it in September. So I've been talking about it for a while now.


Doubt that I would have went with the XSPC Rasa kit if it wasn't for this thread. Based on the comments here from all the various users I decided that the RX res and Rasa CPU block made the kit worth getting. If there had been a lot of users complaining about noisy/failing pumps I would not have purchased the kit. There was some users complaining about noisy pumps but they also said it was fairly painless to get replacements.


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

Can I remount my CPU block without removing the tubes?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda;12066657*
> Can I remount my CPU block without removing the tubes?


If you have enough slack, yes.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda;12066657*
> Can I remount my CPU block without removing the tubes?


Yes, I have remounted my CPU block without disconnecting anything. As long as you have enough slack in the tubing which you should.


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda;12066657*
> Can I remount my CPU block without removing the tubes?


Yes it should be abit flexable.


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

Is my loop setup appear to be correct?
View attachment 191138


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chano305;12066594*
> Yeah the Rasa kit is awesome. The only issue I had was the pump which I'm pretty sure just slipped through quality control. It was really easy to put together, and my temps are better than expected.
> Once the new pump gets here and I have everything running, I'll post pics so I can join officially
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also waiting on changing my specs below till everything is peachy.


BOTH... both of our pumps slipped QC but that happens even to the best of companies. I am still a happy camper with this product.

Happy Happy Joy Joy...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda;12067346*
> Is my loop setup appear to be correct?
> View attachment 191138


Exactly as I have it set up.


----------



## mbudden

Looks good to me.


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12064618*
> Would you guys like to tell me which kit you have? So I can add it to the list?


240rs


----------



## wholeeo

What if you don't clean out your rad before installing? I didn't and now from I've been reading its a must to do so.







I did flush my system 2 or 3 times within the 1st 3 days getting everything the way I wanted. I can't say all the water was out of the rad though. Can not cleaning out the rad mess anything up?


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo;12068652*
> What if you don't clean out your rad before installing? I didn't and now from I've been reading its a must to do so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did flush my system 2 or 3 times within the 1st 3 days getting everything the way I wanted. I can't say all the water was out of the rad though. Can not cleaning out the rad mess anything up?


Your rad may not have had anything in it, some do and some don't. If you have already changed your water a few times yuor radiator should be clean. The problem with not cleaning out the rad is leftover flux from the manufacturing process can get trapped in your CPU, GPU blocks and the pump.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12068787*
> Your rad may not have had anything in it, some do and some don't. If you have already changed your water a few times yuor radiator should be clean. The problem with not cleaning out the rad is leftover flux from the manufacturing process can get trapped in your CPU, GPU blocks and the pump.


Agreed... The ONLY thing I could suggest, if you are up to it and really want peace of mind is, shut everything down, take out your blocks, dissasemble and inspect. Then, dismount the rad, pour some hot water into it... shake... repeat 2-3 times. This should take about an hour or so depending on your skills here.

BUT... if you have flushed your system out a few times and several days have gone by since your last flushing... water is clear... then I think you are good as long as you are happy with the temps you are seeing.

As with ANY manufacturing environment, you will have quality issues with some units. What you may be seeing here is a minimal amount in comparison to the thousands of units sold by XSPC. Simply, the law of averages caught up with them on a couple of pieces. That's all. You made a good choice. trust us!


----------



## jam3s

I didn't flush my rad out when I got it. Everything works fine.

61c on hottest core in IBT at 3.6GHz with 1.45v

I can't overclock more since my board doesn't like 425 FSB.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well im about to order my wc parts to finish what i want it to look like








Quote:


> XSPC RX240 - Dual 120mm high performance radiator 1x= $66.95
> 
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SH-12 - High Speed 4x= $13.20
> 
> PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD 3x= $4.80
> 
> XSPC G1/4 Barb to 1/2" Fitting 1x= $2.50
> 
> Bitspower Silver shining G 1/4 Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - BP-WTP-CT 1x= $7.95
> 
> 120mm Black wire fan grill 3x= $4.17
> 
> Subtotal: $99.57
> Discount coupon : $4.99
> Discounted subtotal: $94.58
> Shipping cost: $10.82
> Total: $105.40


----------



## Jonesey I7

Looks good on paper mate, can't wait to see it live in action.







ON a side note, ALL my stuff.... new pump, rad, res, chip, AND ram should be here tomorrow.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12069368*
> Looks good on paper mate, can't wait to see it live in action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ON a side note, ALL my stuff.... new pump, rad, res, chip, AND ram should be here tomorrow.


Yea i dont see my temps droping alot but it will be ready when ever i add another 5870 to my loop and my order is processed i probly will get it mon or tuesday.

Now my loop wil be in this order

res/pump > rx360/drain line water temp sensor > cpu > gpu > rx240 > res/pump


----------



## wermad

I've been contemplating adding the xspc m20 to g1/4 adapter to add a regular g1/4 plug. But considering I just need a penny to open the m20 plug as opposed to buying the $5 adapter plus shipping. any one have it on their res btw?


----------



## TheDream

Do you guys know if the NXZT Phantom can take a 360 rad on top? Also how good are these fans? I think I'd rather use my NF-P12's from Noctua.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I've been contemplating adding the xspc m20 to g1/4 adapter to add a regular g1/4 plug. But considering I just need a penny to open the m20 plug as opposed to buying the $5 adapter plus shipping. any one have it on their res btw?


Lol yea its easy to open the res i even took the screws out of my dvdrw on the other side so i can take it out without taking the other door off my case.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheDream*


Do you guys know if the NXZT Phantom can take a 360 rad on top? Also how good are these fans? I think I'd rather use my NF-P12's from Noctua.


 The NF-P12's will be quieter but the fans that come with move more air. Took the NF-P12 off my CPU cooler and put it over my PSU. It's up top next to the RX240. Could be that there is only like an inch between the fan and my PSU that it doesn't feel like it's moving as much air.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheDream*


Do you guys know if the NXZT Phantom can take a 360 rad on top? Also how good are these fans? I think I'd rather use my NF-P12's from Noctua.


Yes, with a little modding it will. See my Sig for pics and System info. Also check the last few pages (69 or 70?) of the *[Official] NZXT PHANTOM Club*

The 360 Radiator will hit the 5.25" Drive Bay support bar using the pre-drilled holes on the top beam of the case - the holes work fine for the shorter 240 rads. So you'll just have to line up the 360 radiator the the position you like it at and drill 4 holes on the top beam to secure it. Mine are only a cm or so away from the stock holes. I lined up the middle hole of the back 120mm part of the radiator to the beam in order to secure it. This puts the front part of the radiator halfway into the to 5.25" drive bay, others have mounted it farther back.

Whatever preference you have is up to you. I took off the front door so the front fan on the radiator pulls in air through the mesh panel of the top 5.25" drive bay and it works well. Only minor drawback is you won't be able to mount 3 120mm fans on the top of the radiator as the top panel is closed there. So I have three fans under pushing air up and two up top pulling air out through the top mesh of the case. I tested it out of the case with three fans on each side vs the 3/2 and there was no readable difference in temps.

I replaced all the NZXT 120mm fans with Cooler Master R4-L2R-20CR-GP's for the red led effect and good airflow. The fan controller is very useful with these. The ones on the Rad are silent ata any speed, yet the side two fans make a bit of a hum at full speed, not sure why, but even at med or low speed they still keep the HDD's cool, plus there's the front 120mm/140mm fan slot if you need more cooling there... I have 5 HDD in the rack and they're cool at low fan speed. I may try Scythe Noiseblockers (1850rpm) just to compare, but they're much more $$ than the CM R4's.

-SS


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I think i can be confirmed crazy i just checked how much i spent on my entire water loop lol and whoa. My little loop that was gonna cost 200 turned into 650 bucks almost lol more then my cpu motherboard and ram together.

Quote:



Modded Rocketfish - $100
XSPC RX240 - $67
XSPC RX360 - $87 
XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetal - $50
XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25" Reservoir for Laing D5 - $50 
EK Waterblocks EK-FC5870 - $109
Swiftech MCP655-B - $66
YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SH-12 - High 8x - $27
Dangerden Fill Syringe - $2 
PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD 12feet - $18
PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils 1/2"- Black - $3
Antimicrobial Silver Strip - $5 
PrimoChill Black Steel Spring Hose Clamps 8x - $10
120mm Black wire fan grill 3x - $5
ek high flow barbs 10x - $25 
Bitspower Silver shining G 1/4 Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - $8
ENZOTECH BNPH-ID1/2-G14 Matt Black Stop Fitting - $6
Black Nylon 1/2in. Barbed T0-8BN Equal Tee Fitting - $1

And some of it im not even using the temp sensor i wont be able to use right now and the clamps were to small.
TOTAL= 640 OUCH


----------



## Brutuz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


Yeah i'm glad they have dropped that much, but I was hoping they would drop further..

67C was after about 10 minutes of prime95.. So it's bound to get up into the 70s

How are people giving the 6 core CPUs 1.47v and getting a max temp of around 36-40C???


Core ix 45nm CPUs put out heaps of heat compared to AMD ones and you have to remember, every CPU is different, some put out much more heat than others, you've got a hot running i5.

Hopefully I'll have the RS240 soon enough, should be great for even my Phenom II. (Hopefully getting a 2600K to put under it though)


----------



## Bal3Wolf

On another topic sorta but i gota give jab-tech major props i orderd my stuff at 5:45pm tonight it still shipped. And i will get it by friday and i picked the fedex ground cheapest shipping was only 10 bucks for 5 pounds of stuff. Not to mention when i used the facebook coupon it was cheaper then the other sites.


----------



## man00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


On another topic sorta but i gota give jab-tech major props i orderd my stuff at 5:45pm tonight it still shipped. And i will get it by friday and i picked the fedex ground cheapest shipping was only 10 bucks for 5 pounds of stuff. Not to mention when i used the facebook coupon it was cheaper then the other sites.


that shipping is cheaper than I paid for Kill Coil and I live about 100 miles away from jab-tech


----------



## MDalton10

Anyone running a SB with a 480 on the Rasa 360kit? If so is it working well?


----------



## mbudden

I have no doubt in my mine you could run this kit on SB and be fine. I believe you could probably though two fermi's on it and you'd be fine. But that's because SB runs so cool and doesn't put out much heat.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *man00*


that shipping is cheaper than I paid for Kill Coil and I live about 100 miles away from jab-tech


Insane they like me lol my last order was like 12 or 13 pounds and shipping was only 13 bucks i got it in 2 days also.

Also mbudden heres somthing you should put on the first page i dont take credit for it as kILLDR3n is one posted the site asking for help but it would be somthing good to have for users trying to get silver that forgot to order it this stuff is alot cheaper. For me it would be under 5 shipped if i bought 1foot of it, and you probly wanna get thickness of 20 Gauge or lower.

http://www.twistedjewels.com/servlet...ver/Categories


----------



## beeeee

hi. new here..
like to ask. there is an acrylic cup attach to the pump. air is starting to build up in it. 
how do u guys remove it?
thx


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *beeeee*


hi. new here..
like to ask. there is an acrylic cup attach to the pump. air is starting to build up in it. 
how do u guys remove it?
thx


Use the included jumper so that your PSU powers everything up except the mobo/drives. Pump will be running then so you can start tilting and shaking the computer case. Make sure to attempt to get air out of the rad also before getting any air out of the pump.


----------



## beeeee

there wasnt any air there 3 days ago..
it's slowly building up.
from the angle. the only way i could get the air pocket out is turning the pump upside down which is impossible.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beeeee;12076063*
> there wasnt any air there 3 days ago..
> it's slowly building up.
> from the angle. the only way i could get the air pocket out is turning the pump upside down which is impossible.


I installed and did all the motions to free the system of all air. My rad is top/external mounted (horizontally - barbs facing down). This was the best position I could achieve with the stock tubing to avoid any kinks. All seemed well. After 2 days my pump started in with a rattling noise. Forum members and XSPC suggested I "shake, rattle and roll" my machine to make sure ALL air was out. I was convinced it was but I like to cover all my basese... all the time... so I did as suggested.

BAM! 2 rather large air bubbles came out of the rad as I was trying to insure I had no more air in the pump! Surprise... surprise... surprise. As luck would have it, these bubbles had nothing to do with my pumps rattling noise (which is being replaced btw). But with time, those bubbles in the rad could breakdown, make their way into the pump and cause all sorts of inconsistencies (poor water flow, higher temps, additional noise, and to an extreme maybe even damage the pump - who knows).

Now... if you tighten *carefully* the reservoir fill cap (assuming you are using the XSPC reservoir), you can invert the machine upside down and do a little shaking. But let me ask you this... are you seeing very small bubbles? If so, let the pump do its work. I assure you that these bubbles will go away in about a day or two. When I initially installed my kit, I had all sorts of small bubbles flowing around. It is inevitable but they just went away on their own basically.

_Once again.. I stress the use of the PSU jumper adapter included with your kit for the above step._

I know it's extra work but you will be satisfied with the knowledge of knowing you did everything you could to insure a properly functioning loop. I am sure others here would suggest the same or even better steps to take. Wait a few hours to see who else chimes in with your situation. I am rather new to all of this and can only relate my experiences to you.


----------



## beeeee

my temps are good.
i think is all the small bubbles that got accumulated in the cup( just next to the pump) yes im using the xspc pump/res .
is there a way to remove them?

u know which cup im referring to?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beeeee;12076504*
> my temps are good.
> i think is all the small bubbles that got accumulated in the cup( just next to the pump) yes im using the xspc pump/res .
> is there a way to remove them?
> 
> u know which cup im referring to?


I know exactly what cup you're referring to. I also had bubbles accumulate in it. Do what Kahbrohn said. Jumper the cable then tilt the computer just enough so that the air comes out of the cup (almost upside down but not quite). Worked great for me. No more bubbles and pump is quieter.


----------



## beeeee

hmmm will try that... thx


----------



## premonition08

A few more photos in action


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *premonition08;12077432*
> A few more photos in action


Nice... Brand new install, right? (can tell by the small bubbles still lingering in the tubing - they will go away though)


----------



## TheDream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark;12071179*
> Yes, with a little modding it will. See my Sig for pics and System info. Also check the last few pages (69 or 70?) of the *[Official] NZXT PHANTOM Club*
> 
> The 360 Radiator will hit the 5.25" Drive Bay support bar using the pre-drilled holes on the top beam of the case - the holes work fine for the shorter 240 rads. So you'll just have to line up the 360 radiator the the position you like it at and drill 4 holes on the top beam to secure it. Mine are only a cm or so away from the stock holes. I lined up the middle hole of the back 120mm part of the radiator to the beam in order to secure it. This puts the front part of the radiator halfway into the to 5.25" drive bay, others have mounted it farther back.
> 
> Whatever preference you have is up to you. I took off the front door so the front fan on the radiator pulls in air through the mesh panel of the top 5.25" drive bay and it works well. Only minor drawback is you won't be able to mount 3 120mm fans on the top of the radiator as the top panel is closed there. So I have three fans under pushing air up and two up top pulling air out through the top mesh of the case. I tested it out of the case with three fans on each side vs the 3/2 and there was no readable difference in temps.
> 
> I replaced all the NZXT 120mm fans with Cooler Master R4-L2R-20CR-GP's for the red led effect and good airflow. The fan controller is very useful with these. The ones on the Rad are silent ata any speed, yet the side two fans make a bit of a hum at full speed, not sure why, but even at med or low speed they still keep the HDD's cool, plus there's the front 120mm/140mm fan slot if you need more cooling there... I have 5 HDD in the rack and they're cool at low fan speed. I may try Scythe Noiseblockers (1850rpm) just to compare, but they're much more $$ than the CM R4's.
> 
> -SS


Thanks for the info!


----------



## man00

Maybe I got lucky, but for air bubbles I just left the fill cap off ran the loop adding coolant as needed. Air bubbles were gone in 5 minutes or less. As I see it there is no way air can get out
of the loop unless you leave the fill cap off..I mean where is the air going to go??


----------



## Bal3Wolf

im not exacty sure about the pumps in the rskits but my d5 in a xspc res works good at getting bubbles out by laying the case on its face.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12079297*
> im not exacty sure about the pumps in the rskits but my d5 in a xspc res works good at getting bubbles out by laying the case on its face.


That res (I assume) has a removable top then? The RS kit res is sealed as far as I can tell. I'll be dissecting it once my replacement arrives and I am satisfied it is working. Even the guy at Jab Tech asked me to dissect it to see what is causing that racket.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *man00;12079265*
> Maybe I got lucky, but for air bubbles I just left the fill cap off ran the loop adding coolant as needed. Air bubbles were gone in 5 minutes or less. As I see it there is no way air can get out
> of the loop unless you leave the fill cap off..I mean where is the air going to go??


Pretty much what is happening is when you add water and turn the pump on. The water goes through the lines and the air that was in the lines takes the place of the water in the reservoir. So thats why when you first start your loop you have to keep adding water!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


That res (I assume) has a removable top then? The RS kit res is sealed as far as I can tell. I'll be dissecting it once my replacement arrives and I am satisfied it is working. Even the guy at Jab Tech asked me to dissect it to see what is causing that racket.


Um not sure what you mean i mean with it all setup and with it running i turn the pc on the face and it makes the pump stir up the water and get rid of bubbles.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


Pretty much what is happening is when you add water and turn the pump on. The water goes through the lines and the air that was in the lines takes the place of the water in the reservoir. So thats why when you first start your loop you have to keep adding water!


Exactly. It's been said on this forum before but people still seem to have the impression that leaving the cap off the res does something. It does not. It seems somehow counter-intuitive but the exact volume of air in this case replaces the exact volume of water when your system bleeds. It's not like a bottle of pop where CO2 is dissolved in the water and then rapidly expands in volume when it changes to a gas. I think this is the image that most people have when they decide the cap needs to be left off.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12080083*
> Exactly. It's been said on this forum before but people still seem to have the impression that leaving the cap off the res does something. It does not. It seems somehow counter-intuitive but the exact volume of air in this case replaces the exact volume of water when your system bleeds. It's not like a bottle of pop where CO2 is dissolved in the water and then rapidly expands in volume when it changes to a gas. I think this is the image that most people have when they decide the cap needs to be left off.


I dont agree with all of that that because when i take my cap off i have bubbles pop out of it when i have alot of air in my loop.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I dont agree with all of that that because when i take my cap off i have bubbles pop out of it when i have alot of air in my loop.


Agree with it or not, it's science! Thats basically what is happening in both situations he described..


----------



## man00

All I can say my method worked for me far as air bubbles goes


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


Agree with it or not, it's science! Thats basically what is happening in both situations he described..


the thing we wanna get rid of is air bubbles that take up space that arent being used to cool. I guess air will always be in the loop aslong as we dont have bubbles causing us to lose the space water could be to cool. Thats why its probly wise to have your loop as full as possable to have less air in it and more water.


----------



## wholeeo

I have really tiny bubbles in my reservoir I'd like to get rid of. They are just stuck in the reservoirs floor, should I even bother trying to get rid of them?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo;12080766*
> I have really tiny bubbles in my reservoir I'd like to get rid of. They are just stuck in the reservoirs floor, should I even bother trying to get rid of them?


They will leave on their own over time 4-5 days usualy for mine to all disapeer.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


They will leave on their own over time 4-5 days usualy for mine to all disapeer.


I am Kahbrohn... and I endorse this statement!

Same happened to me. The tiny bubbles vanished after a few days.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


the thing we wanna get rid of is air bubbles that take up space that arent being used to cool. I guess air will always be in the loop aslong as we dont have bubbles causing us to lose the space water could be to cool. Thats why its probly wise to have your loop as full as possable to have less air in it and more water.


I agree. Fill your res to the max.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I agree. Fill your res to the max.










hehe, I filled my res to the max and I still have about 3/4 left after filling it when I first got it, which was in the last week of december lol.

The bubbles that accumulated in my res went away with time, and I didn't have to 'bleed' my loop that much when I got it.

Max temps on load 67 passes of IBT on maximum memory: 60c load.

I have a pic too for anyone who wants proof









This is at 3.6GHz with 1.45v


----------



## Jonesey I7

New chip ROCKS!!!!!! 5ghz 1.4v


----------



## jam3s

luckyyyyy


----------



## thrasherht

you are going to kill your chip. how can a smaller chip then the old i7's hit higher voltages safely? that goes against pretty much everything we know about electronic.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


you are going to kill your chip. how can a smaller chip then the old i7's hit higher voltages safely? that goes against pretty much everything we know about electronic.


What about doing more work at a slower speed? That pretty much made everyone scratch their heads too back in the day. There is more to it than the size of the chip, like quality of the silicon for one. Yes Intel has changed specs in the past, but not the CPU voltage. There is a SB 5.0GHz Club on here and not one of them has had their CPU die yet. Oh did you know that socket 1155 are burning pins just like the 1156 did too, but that is from overly tight coolers and/or too heavy of one for week MB PCB's. I think lot of this started from people doing suicide runs and not wanting to own up to killing their CPU because they wanted to play, plus increasing the BCLK trying to get that last bit out of it, that is a big no no with SB. Then some vendor started saying Intel told them that the spec sheet for the CPU is wrong and 1.35v or something like that was the voltage you shouldn't go over. I say stick with Intel specs, if it dies send it in and get a new one. But that is my 2 cents, I'm waiting for socket 2011.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


you are going to kill your chip. how can a smaller chip then the old i7's hit higher voltages safely? that goes against pretty much everything we know about electronic.


No offense brother, but I have seen this exact post from you in like 8 different threads. Give it a rest bud, if it dies, I rma it and get another. 3 year warranty is great. Until then, I'll enjoy running at 5ghz 24/7 with great temps. Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


New chip ROCKS!!!!!! 5ghz 1.4v




lucky you sir









I'm tempted to go SB but I wanna see what IB has to offer







, plus my bloomfield setup is fairly new, so it will be a while before I upgrade to a new cpu platform.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


lucky you sir









I'm tempted to go SB but I wanna see what IB has to offer







, plus my bloomfield setup is fairly new, so it will be a while before I upgrade to a new cpu platform.


yea, I finally got lucky, made Newegg send me 4 different chips before I finally found one that wasn't "defective"







Sent all the others back to them today.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


yea, I finally got lucky, made Newegg send me 4 different chips before I finally found one that wasn't "defective"







Sent all the others back to them today.


lol, just call it "shopping" for the right cpu


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


No offense brother, but I have seen this exact post from you in like 8 different threads. Give it a rest bud, if it dies, I rma it and get another. 3 year warranty is great. Until then, I'll enjoy running at 5ghz 24/7 with great temps. Thanks










Yea and intel is one said max vcore 1.5 these chips are made to overclock so i cant see how they could deny any warranty on them. Now if they come out and change specs to 1.3 or 1.4 vcore i see them maybe denying some warrantys if they can tell if the chips been overclocked but im sure they still only waranty it at stock so you would have to degrade it well below stock to get it replaced.

LOl i cant make up my mind which loop i like now and i know ovetime the water should be the same temp.

loop order 1
pump/res > rx360 >cpu > gpu > rx240 > pump/res
pros=less tubing
cons=cpu heat goes into gpu









loop order 2
pros=a rad befor cpu and gpu
cons=more tubing
pump/res > rx360 > cpu > rx240 > gpu > pump/res


----------



## Brutuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12084389*
> you are going to kill your chip. how can a smaller chip then the old i7's hit higher voltages safely? that goes against pretty much everything we know about electronic.


It depends on the process, hence why AMD 45nm can do 1.55v (Like Intel 65nm) safely but Intel 45nm can only do 1.425v safely, if they've got a different process it might take 1.48v easily.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brutuz;12086769*
> It depends on the process, hence why AMD 45nm can do 1.55v (Like Intel 65nm) safely but Intel 45nm can only do 1.425v safely, if they've got a different process it might take 1.48v easily.


And I"m only using 1.4v load!!!!


----------



## ELPCU

1.4V is definitely not much except there is socketburn in LGA1155. That's my most concern right now.


----------



## ELPCU

I taped with blue color on my graphic card block because I hate copper color.

I taped also tiny cable's multiple colors,
but I think maybe using black marker can be another choice.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


And I"m only using 1.4v load!!!!


You have Sandy Bridge though, 32nm.

He was referring to i7v1 (excluding 6-cores), 45nm.

But yes, 1.4V for 5GHz is nice.

@ELPCU










Nice looking rig!


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


lucky you sir









I'm tempted to go SB but I wanna see what IB has to offer







, plus my bloomfield setup is fairly new, so it will be a while before I upgrade to a new cpu platform.



WoW I'm running Oc 4.8ghz 1.464v if i run p95 my voltage down to 1.440v
my temp hit to above 85c and i like to buy XSPC RS360 kit from frozencpu.com. 
do i need more part from xspc rs360 kit beside ????

thanks


----------



## ELPCU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


You have Sandy Bridge though, 32nm.

He was referring to i7v1 (excluding 6-cores), 45nm.

But yes, 1.4V for 5GHz is nice.

@ELPCU










Nice looking rig!


Thanks man.

I really want to get
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27767
this... but need $$$$$ to do more change...


----------



## ELPCU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


WoW I'm running Oc 4.8ghz 1.464v if i run p95 my voltage down to 1.440v
my temp hit to above 85c and i like to buy XSPC RS360 kit from frozencpu.com. 
do i need more part from xspc rs360 kit beside ????

thanks


Kit doesn't include any Distilled water + silver coil or pt nuke.

Other than that, you need to check your case can install 120.3 radiator. If you can't, you can mod or you can buy rad mount to put the rad at the back of your case.

Maybe hose cutter if you don't have any big scissors or things to cut hose I guess.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ELPCU*


Kit doesn't include any Distilled water + silver coil or pt nuke.

Other than that, you need to check your case can install 120.3 radiator. If you can't, you can mod or you can buy rad mount to put the rad at the back of your case.

Maybe hose cutter if you don't have any big scissors or things to cut hose I guess.


kit comes with rad mounts for external.


----------



## ELPCU

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


kit comes with rad mounts for external.


really? I guess I was wrong.

Sorry for that.


----------



## yoyo711

silver coil or pt nuke

Which part(silver coil or pt nuke) is this ????????
must need it?????

i'm new with water cooling

thanks


----------



## Bal3Wolf

silver coil is easyest to use you dont have to replace it when you drain your loop just toss it in the res and your done.


----------



## jam3s

I posted my temps and noone cares







It's like no one even looked


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


you are going to kill your chip. how can a smaller chip then the old i7's hit higher voltages safely? that goes against pretty much everything we know about electronic.


1.4v is totally safe as long as your temps are under control. Electromigration due to high temps can degrade CPUs but under water it should be ok. Tons of people on XS forums have 5GHz overclocks and none have died yet.

You don't even use Intel CPUs, and you proclaim to know the safe voltage.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


No offense brother, but I have seen this exact post from you in like 8 different threads. Give it a rest bud, if it dies, I rma it and get another. 3 year warranty is great. Until then, I'll enjoy running at 5ghz 24/7 with great temps. Thanks










ummmm...????? You have? I haven't said anything about people killing their chips in any other threads. You should really get your eyes checked or something.

There is another guy running around with the razer logo as his avatar too.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*


1.4v is totally safe as long as your temps are under control. Electromigration due to high temps can degrade CPUs but under water it should be ok. Tons of people on XS forums have 5GHz overclocks and none have died yet.

You don't even use Intel CPUs, and you proclaim to know the safe voltage.










Lol i wonder if 1.5 is safe on a 45nm i7 if under water with good temps.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


ummmm...????? You have? I haven't said anything about people killing their chips in any other threads. You should really get your eyes checked or something.

There is another guy running around with the razer logo as his avatar too.


OH lol, my bad my bad... SOMEONE is stalking me I swear to God talking about killing SB everywhere I go.


----------



## yoyo711

what is different rs360 vs rx 360 ?????


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


what is different rs360 vs rx 360 ?????


RX360 comes with a thicker rad but if you're just cooling CPU, RS360 is more than enough and will see no difference with the RX360.


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*


RX360 comes with a thicker rad but if you're just cooling CPU, RS360 is more than enough and will see no difference with the RX360.



thanks


----------



## yoyo711

This is my cpu cooler update(in 3 month I7 950 & I7 2600k)............

CM 212--> CM v6gt ----> H50 ----> NH-d14 (now) ----> XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360(going to) can not stop !!!!!!!!!!!

PLEASE stop me my wife try to kill me............


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


This is my cpu cooler update(in 3 month I7 950 & I7 2600k)............

CM 212--> CM v6gt ----> H50 ----> NH-d14 (now) ----> XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360(going to) can not stop !!!!!!!!!!!

PLEASE stop me my wife try to kill me............


Give the credit card to her after you get your xspc kit, and let her manage the money. then you have to ask to buy stuff, and she can make you save up your money before you spend it.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


OH lol, my bad my bad... SOMEONE is stalking me I swear to God talking about killing SB everywhere I go.


haha, no problem. 
I have seen stories about how there is debate of the actual safe voltage, but from what i have seen, 32nm should have a lower safe voltage then 45nm. I have read about voltages and electron migration so that is what i understood.

When i read what you posted i was like


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


haha, no problem. 
I have seen stories about how there is debate of the actual safe voltage, but from what i have seen, 32nm should have a lower safe voltage then 45nm. I have read about voltages and electron migration so that is what i understood.

When i read what you posted i was like






































hahaha. I'm sorry bud, I'm just sick of all the " you'll shoot your eye out" crap about these chips. I've actually gotten it down to 1.38v, so I'm a lot happier about that voltage in the long run.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


hahaha. I'm sorry bud, I'm just sick of all the " you'll shoot your eye out" crap about these chips. I've actually gotten it down to 1.38v, so I'm a lot happier about that voltage in the long run.


IMO, 1.38v should be fine. Granted, I don't know squat about Sandy Bridge 32nm process


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


hahaha. I'm sorry bud, I'm just sick of all the " you'll shoot your eye out" crap about these chips. I've actually gotten it down to 1.38v, so I'm a lot happier about that voltage in the long run.


OMG JONE. You are going to kill your chip.

im telling you! it's going to happen!!!








/sarcasm


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


hahaha. I'm sorry bud, I'm just sick of all the " you'll shoot your eye out" crap about these chips. I've actually gotten it down to 1.38v, so I'm a lot happier about that voltage in the long run.



Hello Jonesey

I'm at 1.475v(OC 4.8) you and I has same motherboard HOW is set up
you set 1.38v @ 5.0Ghz









please let me know??????


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


Hello Jonesey

I'm at 1.475v(OC 4.8) you and I has same motherboard HOW is set up
you set 1.38v @ 5.0Ghz









please let me know??????


Nothing to do with the motherboard, I rma'd chips until I got a gem, took three returns. All about the cpu baby.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Nothing to do with the motherboard, I rma'd chips until I got a gem, took three returns. All about the cpu baby.










might have something to do with the mobo too? just guessing?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


might have something to do with the mobo too? just guessing?


Not at all.... the three chips before this one ALL needed 1.5v+ for 5ghz. One of them couldn't even do 5ghz. This one is just a Golded chip, so motherboard had nothing to do with finally getting the chip I wanted.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Not at all.... the three chips before this one ALL needed 1.5v+ for 5ghz. One of them couldn't even do 5ghz. This one is just a Golded chip, so motherboard had nothing to do with finally getting the chip I wanted.


good to know. I will be upgrading to SB in the future (i'm guessing around June?)

Which mobo is king for SB? The Asus P67?


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


good to know. I will be upgrading to SB in the future (i'm guessing around June?)

Which mobo is king for SB? The Asus P67?


wait for z 67 or was it 68? platform.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


wait for z 67 or was it 68? platform.


I'll have to look that up. Can't wait to upgrade though, i'll be taking a whole WC system with it and two GTX 470's along to the upgrade


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


I'll have to look that up. Can't wait to upgrade though, i'll be taking a whole WC system with it and two GTX 470's along to the upgrade










yeah. the only reason i said the z 68 platform is because u can use the integrated gpu that's on SB if needed and use the video encoding thing that's way faster than cuda- but if u dont do that, then you shouldn't worry.

all in all, it depends on the price of the board, but hey, money "aint a thang to u''


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


yeah. the only reason i said the z 68 platform is because u can use the integrated gpu that's on SB if needed and use the video encoding thing that's way faster than cuda- but if u dont do that, then you shouldn't worry.

all in all, it depends on the price of the board, but hey, money "aint a thang to u''


hehe, it is, in a way a 'thang to me.' But when I go sandy, I'm going all out hehe


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Nothing to do with the motherboard, I rma'd chips until I got a gem, took three returns. All about the cpu baby.











Damn you got the golden cpu


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Nothing to do with the motherboard, I rma'd chips until I got a gem, took three returns. All about the cpu baby.











Jonesey

Just in case can you look at the my Bios setting what do i need to adjustment????

thanks


----------



## HiLuckyB

Just ordered a XSPC RX360 and a Kill Coil for my i7 875K







Its going to be replacing my H50. I going to be using 3 Gentle Typhoon AP-15, And I wanted to know if I should use them to push or pull? Its going in the top of my HAF 932 as exhaust. Thanks for any help


----------



## binar

Fellow Forum Members,
I'm building a system with the XSPC water cooler kit that has the two 120 mm fans. I have gone through all of the contents and don't see any teflon tape. Has anyone out there used teflon tape? Besides using the teflon tape on the threads should I also use it on the barbs?
My loop is as follows:

RES/PUMP out to CPU in
CPU out to RAD in
RAD out to RES in

Also, I'm getting conflicting info regarding the right liquid to use. I bought big bottle of Feser One Cooling Liquid. However, a video I watched suggests only to use distilled water. What is correct?

Any info appreciated. Thanks in advance


----------



## Brutuz

@ SB voltage discussion:

Intel's max VID for SB is 1.52v


----------



## AMOCO

the barbs come with rubber o-rings,no need for teflon tape.
and the loop is right and i use distilled water and a kill coil,no other additives or dyes(dyes will void your warranty at XSPC.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brutuz;12097255*
> @ SB voltage discussion:
> 
> Intel's max VID for SB is 1.52v


It does not make it safe tho a i7 9xx has a max of 1.60 by intels data sheets thats just what they say wont kill the chip not what can cause degradation. And people have killed the 9xxx with 1.4-1.5 volts so im not sure what to really think.


----------



## Eebobb

Hey everyone I was wondering if anyone knows what kind of decrease in temps I would get using a Rasa 360 kit for a i7 930 compared to a Noctua NH-D14. Right now depending on how hot this room is its usually mid 70's full load most of the time and the highest I have ever seen it hit was 81c.

This just looks like a good starter for a noob in training for a decent price.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i have a rx360 and at 4.2ghz i didnt pass 65c in ibt i do have a gpu in my loop also.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12095257*
> *Give the credit card to her* after you get your xspc kit, and let her manage the money. then you have to ask to buy stuff, and she can make you save up your money before you spend it.


Oh, yeah, because all men know that giving their woman plastic is a great idea.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;12097758*
> Oh, yeah, because all men know that giving their woman plastic is a great idea.


Haha yea he wont have to worry about spending any money for himself because she will max out the card the day she gets it.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12097774*
> Haha yea he wont have to worry about spending any money for himself because she will max out the card the day she gets it.


Yep, lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;12097758*
> Oh, yeah, because all men know that giving their woman plastic is a great idea.


when my wifey gets the plastic, I =







, j/k









She's already pissed because of the the amount I have spent on three builds within the last year. So its kewl to have her splurge once and while and keep the nagging at bay







.


----------



## koven

got my folding rig up & running... wow this kit is amazing for the price... i finally understand why this club has so many members haha

4.2ghz 1.5v folding bigadv @ 32-34c














idle ~20c, ambient ~15c, stock fans..

in retrospect, i should have just bought a nh-d14 cus this kit is WAY overkill for a rig i'll rarely use, but too late now.. oh well LOL


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12097917*
> got my folding rig up & running... wow this kit is amazing for the price... i finally understand why this club has so many members haha
> 
> 4.2ghz 1.5v folding bigadv @ 32-34c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> idle ~20c, ambient ~15c, stock fans..
> 
> in retrospect, i should have just bought a nh-d14 cus this kit is WAY overkill for a rig i'll rarely use, but too late now.. oh well LOL


Very nice lol i wished i7s ran that cool but the kit will last you along time and would be easy to upgrade and much safer to transport compared to a big heatsink hanging off your board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12097914*
> when my wifey gets the plastic, I =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , j/k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She's already pissed because of the the amount I have spent on three builds within the last year. So its kewl to have her splurge once and while and keep the nagging at bay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Lol yea but you spend a little every few months lol she would buy a large ticket item every few months







.


----------



## Brutuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12097431*
> It does not make it safe tho a i7 9xx has a max of 1.60 by intels data sheets thats just what they say wont kill the chip not what can cause degradation. And people have killed the 9xxx with 1.4-1.5 volts so im not sure what to really think.


People went by the VID for Core 2, it didn't kill it and most of the Nehalem deaths were uncore voltage related iirc, not vcore related.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

intel makes it really confusing tho on what is safe and whats not lol i thk the main thing is killing and degrading cause a guy recently degraded his i7 using 1.45 folding on it for a month. The higher voltage at the top end of intels datasheets might not kill but could degrade the chips fairly fast. And core2 had a vid the i7s dont really have a vid set the same way as older core chips just the datasheet people are going by.


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12097934*
> Very nice lol i wished i7s ran that cool but the kit will last you along time and would be easy to upgrade and much safer to transport compared to a big heatsink hanging off your board.


i should mention that the rad is external & i used ic diamond, but yeah, im very impressed with this kit, should last a long time


----------



## ErBall

When I initially bought this kit I flushed the rad about 5 times with distilled water yet my tubing has turned the milky color others have reported. My temps have also gotten worse, leading me to believe I have the same gunky buildup others have noted.

All in all I have not been very impressed with this kit. I recieved a defective pump, and after having XSPC send me a replacment, I got a second defective pump. They both rattle after being completely bled. I think they have some very decent customer service, yet their fit and finish leaves something to be desired.

I finally ponied up and bought a mcp355 and xspc bay resivoir mount. I am thankful I got the kit to get me started in watercooling, but I will say that if I had to do it all over again, I would go full custom.

My .02 for what it's worth.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;12099652*
> When I initially bought this kit I flushed the rad about 5 times with distilled water yet my tubing has turned the milky color others have reported. My temps have also gotten worse, leading me to believe I have the same gunky buildup others have noted.
> 
> All in all I have not been very impressed with this kit. I recieved a defective pump, and after having XSPC send me a replacment, I got a second defective pump. They both rattle after being completely bled. I think they have some very decent customer service, yet their fit and finish leaves something to be desired.
> 
> I finally ponied up and bought a mcp355 and xspc bay resivoir mount. I am thankful I got the kit to get me started in watercooling, but I will say that if I had to do it all over again, I would go full custom.
> 
> My .02 for what it's worth.


UM..... you do realize that the mcp355 is the loudest of all pumps right?? LOL. I smell ANOTHER return on the way. Should have picked up a mcp655b.....dead silent. Good luck though bud, hope your future holds great wet temps.


----------



## jam3s

well just fyi, i've had my pump/res since christmas, not one single problem... so it's a YMMV deal, right there


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;12099652*
> When I initially bought this kit I flushed the rad about 5 times with distilled water yet my tubing has turned the milky color others have reported. My temps have also gotten worse, leading me to believe I have the same gunky buildup others have noted.
> 
> All in all I have not been very impressed with this kit. I recieved a defective pump, and after having XSPC send me a replacment, I got a second defective pump. They both rattle after being completely bled. I think they have some very decent customer service, yet their fit and finish leaves something to be desired.
> 
> I finally ponied up and bought a mcp355 and xspc bay resivoir mount. I am thankful I got the kit to get me started in watercooling, but I will say that if I had to do it all over again, I would go full custom.
> 
> My .02 for what it's worth.


I think you just had bad luck. My X20 pump res combo is super quiet and overall the system works great. I can hear just a slight humming from the pump, kind of like a small aquarium pump sound if I put my ear against it.


----------



## ErBall

It's not a matter of the pump itself being loud, that itself I wouldn't mind. I've received pumps that are defective. Two of them in a row. They sound like grinding gears, I help setup a mcp355 setup and thought it was very tolerable.

I just want decent temps without grinding, regular pump whine I won't mind. I'll keep you all informed.


----------



## dembo1305

Where would be the best (cheapest) place to buy a kill coil? I want to order offline btw, Not many places around here..


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


Where would be the best (cheapest) place to buy a kill coil? I want to order offline btw, Not many places around here..


Frozencpu. IMO without actually going to look.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


Where would be the best (cheapest) place to buy a kill coil? I want to order offline btw, Not many places around here..



You want to order online or offline? Online I would say frozencpu, offline I can't think of any place, I saw a thread where someone went to a jeweler and got a piece of really thin silver coil made (same thing)


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

I've noticed that my idle temps are 37C when I turn my fans all of the way down... Can this be correct? Or do I need to reseat the CPU? If I turn my fans all of the way up it goes down to 28C... I have the stock kit fans on the bottem in push, and nzxt 120mm fans on top in pull... I will be getting some yates or GT depending on the budget here pretty soon...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


Where would be the best (cheapest) place to buy a kill coil? I want to order offline btw, Not many places around here..


http://www.twistedjewels.com/servlet...ver/Categories
that site sells it really cheap get some 18 or 20 and you will be set its much cheaper then frozencpu and jabtech.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


I've noticed that my idle temps are 37C when I turn my fans all of the way down... Can this be correct? Or do I need to reseat the CPU? If I turn my fans all of the way up it goes down to 28C... I have the stock kit fans on the bottem in push, and nzxt 120mm fans on top in pull... I will be getting some yates or GT depending on the budget here pretty soon...


More info needed. Is just your CPU on the loop? What kind of overclock do you have on it? What voltage? What is your ambient temp?

For comparison my 965 (C3) at 4.14 Ghz at 1.55 volts with 20 C ambient idles at 27 C and max temp reached is 42C this is with an RX360 push/pull set-up (external).


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


More info needed. Is just your CPU on the loop? What kind of overclock do you have on it? What voltage? What is your ambient temp?

For comparison my 965 (C3) at 4.14 Ghz at 1.55 volts with 20 C ambient idles at 27 C and max temp reached is 42C this is with an RX360 push/pull set-up (external).











I think it was an ambient temp problem, I'm currently running prime95 and its not touching over 39C and idles at 22C... Darn girlfriend and her heaters


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Frozencpu. IMO without actually going to look.










On some screens where you've posted a lot it looks like a row of kittens punching at my screen......very distracting after a while.


----------



## jam3s

Why does idle matter so much to people.

Don't they get it, it doesn't mean anything.

Load temperatures are what matters.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


Why does idle matter so much to people.

Don't they get it, it doesn't mean anything.

Load temperatures are what matters.


I totally disagree. Being idle is important to me, that's when I get to relax. Working non-stop would suck. I need my idle time.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I totally disagree. Being idle is important to me, that's when I get to relax. Working non-stop would suck. I need my idle time.










hehehe.. good point.

Although I do love when I see idle temps < 30c


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


Why does idle matter so much to people.

Don't they get it, it doesn't mean anything.

Load temperatures are what matters.



I just noted my idle temps last night, was busy and didn't get a chance to run prime on it... but 37C is 15 degrees hotter then my normal Idle temps, so i can only imagine if i did run prime, but since I didn't, I had no load numbers...


----------



## Kick

I am wondering if the x20 pump/res can pump through a rs240 and rs360 + rasa wb.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


I am wondering if the x20 pump/res can pump through a rs240 and rs360 + rasa wb.


For sure. Wermad had it going through 3 gtx 470's, cpu block, and two rads if I'm not mistaken. Maybe only one rad, but I think it was two.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I totally disagree. Being idle is important to me, that's when I get to relax. Working non-stop would suck. I need my idle time.










Well on cpus idle temps dont matter as much cause alot of times their not 100% accurate.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


I am wondering if the x20 pump/res can pump through a rs240 and rs360 + rasa wb.


It shouldnt have any problem just remmber the x20 only has 6.5 feet of head so stay under that and you should have no issues.


----------



## Kick

cool thanks jone.


----------



## HiLuckyB

My 875k @4.0 idles at 22c cpu temp. Two cores idle at 22c and two at 26c with my h50, so I don't think the RX360 kit I ordered can bring that down lol But I have a good chip 1.223v at full load


----------



## Bal3Wolf

idle probly not but the idles probly arent even reported right intel has said anything lower then like 40c can be inaccurate the rx360 will really shine on the load temps.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Im only at 63c on my hottest core @ 4.0 but I want to bump it up to around 4.4 and the h50 can't hold that with HT on. Im sure RX360 can get the job done


----------



## epidemic

Can't wait to see what my 950 can really do.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Im only at 63c on my hottest core @ 4.0 but I want to bump it up to around 4.4 and the h50 can't hold that with HT on. Im sure RX360 can get the job done










I also switched from the H50 (with everything done that I could do to it) to the RX 360. The difference is HUGE







For my 965, load temps dropped a full 13-14 C!







You'll be very happy.


----------



## dembo1305

I feel like i'm the only one who's temperatures didn't change much.. after a few days of testing my temps only dropped by about 5 degrees...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Im only at 63c on my hottest core @ 4.0 but I want to bump it up to around 4.4 and the h50 can't hold that with HT on. Im sure RX360 can get the job done










Oh yea you should get nice temps i have my i7 [email protected] 1.408 with HT max temp 75c in ibt and i have my gpu in my loop to.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


I feel like i'm the only one who's temperatures didn't change much.. after a few days of testing my temps only dropped by about 5 degrees...


How far down did you tighten the screws and are they tightened down the exact same amount? My springs are almost fully compressed


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dembo1305*


I feel like i'm the only one who's temperatures didn't change much.. after a few days of testing my temps only dropped by about 5 degrees...


What cooling method were you on before? Also, with this kit you could turn your fans down much, much lower without hurting your temperatures by more than a few C.

Also, watercooling scales incredibly well. I bumped my vcore from 1.35 to 1.45 and increased my CPU speed from 4.4 --> 4.9 and my load temperatures only increased 6C.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Oh yea you should get nice temps i have my i7 [email protected] 1.408 with HT max temp 75c in ibt and i have my gpu in my loop to.


Sounds good to me







I plan on getting the HD 6990 (If it comes out







) And adding it to the loop with a RX120


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Sounds good to me







I plan on getting the HD 6990 (If it comes out







) And adding it to the loop with a RX120










Yea im adding a rx240 to my loop monday lol might even get my temps lower but overall im pretty dang happy.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charliehorse55*


What cooling method were you on before? Also, with this kit you could turn your fans down much, much lower without hurting your temperatures by more than a few C.

Also, watercooling scales incredibly well. I bumped my vcore from 1.35 to 1.45 and increased my CPU speed from 4.4 --> 4.9 and my load temperatures only increased 6C.


Lol heck yea if i was on a h50/70 or air my temps would be at 100c with 1.4 vcore on my water only hitting 75c with the gpu in the loop.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


How far down did you tighten the screws and are they tightened down the exact same amount? My springs are almost fully compressed










i tightened them down as much as I could so I would say they are close to even... not sure though.. I really feel like I could slow these fans down and see much higher temperatures.. It's pretty hot!

I'm going to try reseating it tomorrow. Any recommendations for that?


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *epidemic*


Can't wait to see what my 950 can really do.




Hello epidemic

jab-tech has discount code or you had coupon ?????
if havd discount code please let me know

thanks

(silver coil or pt nuke) what do you guys better for rs360 water cooler?????


----------



## Bal3Wolf

its on the first page lol and its facebook.


----------



## [Adz]

The discount code for jab-tech is "facebook" (no quotes). Stated in the OP

Edit: Ninja'd


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


Hello epidemic

jab-tech has discount code or you had coupon ?????
if havd discount code please let me know

thanks

(silver coil or pt nuke) what do you guys better for rs360 water cooler?????


i actually forgot to use that code...

and get silver coil.. I just ordered one from twistedjewels.com. it was like 5.69 shipped for 1 foot of .999 silver 18 guage wire.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12105280*
> i tightened them down as much as I could so I would say they are close to even... not sure though.. I really feel like I could slow these fans down and see much higher temperatures.. It's pretty hot!
> 
> I'm going to try reseating it tomorrow. Any recommendations for that?


I haven't had a problem seating mine, and I have had it off a few times. I use a crisscross pattern and using 1/2 turns until fully screwed in.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Just ordered an EK block for my 580!









and quick question regarding killcoils, I ordered an 8 strip and so do I just dump it in my res? How do I make sure it won't get sucked into the pump or gets through the tubing?


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12106367*
> Just ordered an EK block for my 580!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and quick question regarding killcoils, I ordered an 8 strip and so do I just dump it in my res? How do I make sure it won't get sucked into the pump or gets through the tubing?


you coil it up and dump it into the res. make sure the coil is pretty big, but chances are, the pump isn't strong enough to move the coil.

plus, i kinda lodged it in between the molex thing and the pump. you'll c once u look closer.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12106367*
> Just ordered an EK block for my 580!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and quick question regarding killcoils, I ordered an 8 strip and so do I just dump it in my res? How do I make sure it won't get sucked into the pump or gets through the tubing?


When i made mine i took a thick marker and wraped it around making it very long so the pump cant suck it in.


----------



## koven

it's ghetto, i know, lol


----------



## Kahbrohn

Hey Koven... as long as it works, right? Welcome to Water World!!!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Just ordered an EK block for my 580!









and quick question regarding killcoils, I ordered an 8 strip and so do I just dump it in my res? How do I make sure it won't get sucked into the pump or gets through the tubing?


I made 2x4" coils using the cap end of those Papermate (R) disposable pens (the cap is thicker than the body). I could have gone with just one long coil to be honest to keep it heavier and prevent any pump mis-haps but so far, alls good.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Just ordered an EK block for my 580!









and quick question regarding killcoils, I ordered an 8 strip and so do I just dump it in my res? How do I make sure it won't get sucked into the pump or gets through the tubing?


You can put it in your tubing too.


----------



## Citra

So which is the best additive? PT Nuke or Silver Coil? Might get an RS 240 in the future.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


So which is the best additive? PT Nuke or Silver Coil? Might get an RS 240 in the future.


coil, hands down.


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


coil, hands down.


PT-Nuke as benefits too. Mainly the ability to use it in multiple loops at once. I've installed 3 water cooling setups for other people and each time I just put a few drops of PT-Nuke into their loop.

If I went with kill coils I'd have to buy a new one for each loop.

Also, PT-Nuke doesn't damage the pump when it gets sucked into it.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Wow it's been a whole day and my tracking number still is not found...I want my EK block NOW lol


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12116814*
> Wow it's been a whole day and my tracking number still is not found...I want my EK block NOW lol


I know it sucks waiting for shipping







. I once waited an entire 10 days for a motherboard to be shipped via ground from California to Toronto. Went a ******ed route, getting up through Vancouver before coming over to the east coast.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliehorse55;12116857*
> I know it sucks waiting for shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I once waited an entire week for a motherboard to be shipped via ground from California to Toronto. Went a ******ed route, getting up through Vancouver before coming over to the east coast.


I'm still waiting on my SLI bridge to come from teh good ol' CA yo. Datz how we talk 'round 'ere.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

LOl and im waiting on my rx240 to come in was suppose to be here last friday but weather delayed it.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12117083*
> LOl and im waiting on my rx240 to come in was suppose to be here last friday but weather delayed it.


I'm waiting on an SSD to get here! So excited!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol all this snow in the us aint helping us lol.


----------



## jam3s

lol damn you snow. I want my SLI bridge already so I can keep up with bal3.


----------



## Kick

waiting for

gtx 460
3 GT-15's
RS360
90 degree fittings
Tubing
Tube cutter

-also have to get my pump replaced. i can hear a slight noise- similar to HD activity noise constantly and from 6-7 feet away on my bed too. Got to record a video of it according to XSPC and Jab dont want to help me out -_-. looks like a crappy iphone video or a video from a laptop is going to have to work...or else.

I'm also planning to lap the rasa block and disassemble it...the temps i get with it are higher than my mugen 

 damn. didn't expect the list to be that much


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;12117141*
> lol damn you snow. I want my SLI bridge already so I can keep up with bal3.


Haha oh but did i tell you i orderd 2 5870s with waterblocks those 470s gonna need some extra power to keep up.

.................JOKING NO 5870 ON THE WAY.................


----------



## razr m3

I sold some old components and made around $200. Should I get a Rasa RS240 or RX240? I'd go with the RS360 but I'm not sure if it'd fit in my case (HAF 922) and I don't really want to mount it externally or mod my case. Is the RX worth the 40 dollar premium over the RS?

I was planning on getting some Gentle Typhoons, although only 2 pushing. Would those be good?

And for the fluid I was thinking this. The description says it already contains silver so would I not need to buy an additive? If not, that'd save me some money.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razr m3;12117891*
> I sold some old components and made around $200. Should I get a Rasa RS240 or RX240? I'd go with the RS360 but I'm not sure if it'd fit in my case (HAF 922) and I don't really want to mount it externally or mod my case. Is the RX worth the 40 dollar premium over the RS?
> 
> I was planning on getting some Gentle Typhoons, although only 2 pushing. Would those be good?
> 
> And for the fluid I was thinking this. The description says it already contains silver so would I not need to buy an additive? If not, that'd save me some money.


Your cpu shouldn't push out too much heat, unless you're planning to upgrade your gpu to something hotter, grab the rs240.

as for liquid...do not grab it. 20 dollar price premium for distilled water ( can be had for 1dollar/gallon easily ) and a silver coil for like 3-6 bucks depending on where u get it from? the silver from that liquid goes down the drain when u drain your loop, the coil wont and can be reused. i'm not dissing iandh, just trying to get the best bang for your buck.

also, the Gentle Typhoons would be good. keep it.


----------



## razr m3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12117948*
> Your cpu shouldn't push out too much heat, unless you're planning to upgrade your gpu to something hotter, grab the rs240.
> 
> as for liquid...do not grab it. 20 dollar price premium for distilled water ( can be had for 1dollar/gallon easily ) and a silver coil for like 3-6 bucks depending on where u get it from? the silver from that liquid goes down the drain when u drain your loop, the coil wont and can be reused. i'm not dissing iandh, just trying to get the best bang for your buck.
> 
> also, the Gentle Typhoons would be good. keep it.


Thank you very much









Alright so I should save the $40 and get the RS240? Cool, my mom won't get TOO pissed then









Can I just buy distilled water from like Jewel-Osco or something? And for the silver coil, just something like this? Also, where would I place it in my loop? Would it fit in the res? Haha thank you for keeping my wallet in mind







.

Sweet, I really like the look of the GT's!

Now, if I get the RS240 and the silver coil, it's $136.98 (inc tax). And let's say I get some distilled water for ~$1, should I get 4 GT's for push/pull? Or would just pull work?


----------



## kingofyo1

yeah, distilled can be bought from anywhere. local grocery should have it for a buck(ish) and thats the exact kill coil you need. You put it in the res, it'll fit ^^ you dont have to do push/pull, just the 2 that come with it in push or pull are fine


----------



## replin

Hey can I use arctic silver 5 instead of the thermal paste that my XSPC RAZOR Gtx 580 comes with?


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razr m3;12118069*
> Thank you very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright so I should save the $40 and get the RS240? Cool, my mom won't get TOO pissed then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I just buy distilled water from like Jewel-Osco or something? And for the silver coil, just something like this? Also, where would I place it in my loop? Would it fit in the res? Haha thank you for keeping my wallet in mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Sweet, I really like the look of the GT's!
> 
> Now, if I get the RS240 and the silver coil, it's $136.98 (inc tax). And let's say I get some distilled water for ~$1, should I get 4 GT's for push/pull? Or would just pull work?


The RX240 would give you probably 1-2c difference. I just like the thickness of the RX series rads.

It's a big money saver to go with the RS240 than the RX.

And GT's would work great on it, not sure which ones you're getting though.


----------



## razr m3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;12118101*
> yeah, distilled can be bought from anywhere. local grocery should have it for a buck(ish) and thats the exact kill coil you need. You put it in the res, it'll fit ^^ you dont have to do push/pull, just the 2 that come with it in push or pull are fine


Alright, I just didn't know if there was some special difference between loop distilled and grocery store distilled water (some additive or something...). Really, it'll fit?! Cool. It looks like getting it out might be a PITA







. Mkay, 4 might be kinda loud at 100% and noise is a major contributing factor for me to get this. Or should I get 4 and then get a fan controller? I've got enough 5.25" slots for the res and a controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;12118195*
> The RX240 would give you probably 1-2c difference. I just like the thickness of the RX series rads.
> 
> It's a big money saver to go with the RS240 than the RX.
> 
> And GT's would work great on it, not sure which ones you're getting though.


Alright yeah, 1-2 C isn't really worth $40...

I'm looking at the 1450 RPM ones. Although since I'm not getting the RX, I could get the 1850 RPM ones (unless they're not worth it).


----------



## Gigalisk

OK you can add me...i couldn't wait. I bought it so i will have a lot of set up to do when i get home. I hope it all got there intact! I would hate to start a build with missing/broken parts.

Sorry i cant show you pics, but i will when i get home!

Gigalisk
(Forward Deployed)


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigalisk;12119342*
> OK you can add me...i couldn't wait. I bought it so i will have a lot of set up to do when i get home. I hope it all got there intact! I would hate to start a build with missing/broken parts.
> 
> Sorry i cant show you pics, but i will when i get home!
> 
> Gigalisk
> (Forward Deployed)


I see you got the feser liquid aswell. I did the same thing but I'm switching over to distilled+killcoil


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12119982*
> I see you got the feser liquid aswell. I did the same thing but I'm switching over to distilled+killcoil


same thing I did. I ordered the Feser dye and then I thought to myself, after all these people claiming what it did to their loop, i'd rather not, so I too went with distilled and kill coil.

I actually made my own distilled by boiling the water. lol


----------



## jamborhgini313

Okay I think I messed up lol I ordered 1/2 3/4 compression fittings but my tubing is 7/16 and I heard it will not work? Damn I shoulda done more research


----------



## SinX7

Does the 240/360 Rasa fit on most PC case? Like OEM case.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea those wont work it will be cheaper on you to order the right tubing then return the fittings probly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SinX7*


Does the 240/360 Rasa fit on most PC case? Like OEM case.


240 maybe 360 no most cases arent long enugh unless they were premade to fit a 360mm rad or 3 120mm fans in the top.


----------



## Live_free

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


yea those wont work it will be cheaper on you to order the right tubing then return the fittings probly.

240 maybe 360 no most cases arent long enugh unless they were premade to fit a 360mm rad or 3 120mm fans in the top.


Haf X fits a 360 rad no problem right but I will have to remove the 200mm fan up top, right?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

haf-x can im not sure what you gota do tho as i dont own one.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


Haf X fits a 360 rad no problem right but I will have to remove the 200mm fan up top, right?


From the images I've seen it looks possible to keep the top fans an install a rad as well.


----------



## Live_free

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blameless*


From the images I've seen it looks possible to keep the top fans an install a rad as well.


I know you can with a 120 and 240 but not sure about a 360 guess I will dry fit it and play around, maybe mod some stuff. I will be doing a build log with all my upgrades coming in. :3


----------



## replin

Hey I just finished building my system. I turned on the power and the water pump won't work. Whats going on am I missing something? Since there is no CPU fan plug does that affect it? Someone please help. I will post picture if you need them to help me diagnose this.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you are powering it not pluged into your motherboard right your jumping the psu to start the pump thats connected to the molex and the res is not empty.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


I know you can with a 120 and 240 but not sure about a 360 guess I will dry fit it and play around, maybe mod some stuff. I will be doing a build log with all my upgrades coming in. :3


360 should be fine, the case is plenty long enough and the top vents are longer than a 360 rad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Hey I just finished building my system. I turned on the power and the water pump won't work. Whats going on am I missing something? Since there is no CPU fan plug does that affect it? Someone please help. I will post picture if you need them to help me diagnose this.


You do have the pump plugged into a powered 4-pin molex connector, right?


----------



## Live_free

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;12120482*
> 360 should be fine, the case is plenty long enough and the top vents are longer than a 360 rad.


I meant so I could have a 360 and the 200mm fan.


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blameless*


360 should be fine, the case is plenty long enough and the top vents are longer than a 360 rad.

You do have the pump plugged into a powered 4-pin molex connector, right?


Yes I do, and its still not working, I'm using a Corsair AX1200 watt psu. I plugged everything in just to make sure and the pump still wont turn on. There is a 24 pin priming connector, where does this thing plug into?


----------



## Live_free

Hey guys I have a question. I plan on getting the RX360 and want to know how to drain the system? Is there an easy way or should I add a 3 way with an endcap that I can remove to easily drain the system?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you could add a t-line thats what i did with my loop you still gota be carful cause not all the water ever gets out.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Yes I do, and its still not working, I'm using a Corsair AX1200 watt psu. I plugged everything in just to make sure and the pump still wont turn on. There is a 24 pin priming connector, where does this thing plug into?


does the psu kick on ?


----------



## replin

yeah the psu kicks on, the whole computer does, but no pump. I'm going to try connecting the monitor to see if i get a screen. Would that help? No CPU fan is plugged in does that affect it?


----------



## replin

I also bought a koolance flow meter with fid connector thing but havent installed it yet. Would that help?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


There is a 24 pin priming connector, where does this thing plug into?


The end of the ATX motherboard connector.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


Hey guys I have a question. I plan on getting the RX360 and want to know how to drain the system? Is there an easy way or should I add a 3 way with an endcap that I can remove to easily drain the system?


3 way/t-line would make things a lot easier.

I just ordered a huge amount of cheap hose (sub 50 cent per foot durelene) and cut one if I want to drain mine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


yeah the psu kicks on, the whole computer does, but no pump. I'm going to try connecting the monitor to see if i get a screen. Would that help? No CPU fan is plugged in does that affect it?


If the PSU is on, the pump should be on.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blameless*


The end of the ATX motherboard connector.

3 way/t-line would make things a lot easier.

I just ordered a huge amount of cheap hose (sub 50 cent per foot durelene) and cut one if I want to drain mine.

If the PSU is on, the pump should be on.


yeah I have to cut mine in order to drain it. Not looking forward to that mess.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12120664*
> yeah the psu kicks on, the whole computer does, but no pump. I'm going to try connecting the monitor to see if i get a screen. Would that help? No CPU fan is plugged in does that affect it?


You shouldnt have your motherboard or video cards pluged in your going to fry your cpu if you havet already no pump = no cooling.


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blameless*


The end of the ATX motherboard connector.

3 way/t-line would make things a lot easier.

I just ordered a huge amount of cheap hose (sub 50 cent per foot durelene) and cut one if I want to drain mine.

If the PSU is on, the pump should be on.


It was on for less than 20 seconds at a time and I had some liquid poured in, It was in the cpu area, so should it be fine? CPu block was hot but only for a brief time. Should I be worried?

I tried pluggin in that 24 pin connector and it wont go in. There is a wire the circles around to the next hole and I cant seem to plug my main connector in, so how do i get it in?


----------



## replin

I am definitely not happy with this XSPC system, something tells me I should have gone swifttech. So now I have a dead pump then?


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


yeah I have to cut mine in order to drain it. Not looking forward to that mess.


I use a siphon-pump to drain mine 









Once all the water in the reservoir is drained, I close the reservoir cap, and tilt and shake my chassis till I see the reservoir is filled up again, then I siphon it out again and go for the third round, by which normally its completely empty, and there is about 10 - 20ml of liquid left in the whole loop.

Then its of to detaching barbs and tubing, adding or changing the order of things









No need to cut


----------



## Live_free

If I add a t-line to drain I just empty it out the t-line and then to fill up what do I do? Take out the res and fill? Or what?


----------



## Brutuz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


You shouldnt have your motherboard or video cards pluged in your going to fry your cpu if you havet already no pump = no cooling.


Any modern CPU or GPU will be fine if it has a chunk of copper on the die, it underclocks and undervolts automatically to prevent damage.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


It was on for less than 20 seconds at a time and I had some liquid poured in, It was in the cpu area, so should it be fine? CPu block was hot but only for a brief time. Should I be worried?

I tried pluggin in that 24 pin connector and it wont go in. There is a wire the circles around to the next hole and I cant seem to plug my main connector in, so how do i get it in?


Your cpu should be fine. The plug can only go one way.


----------



## begjr2

hey whats up guys ive actually had the xspc rasa 750 rs240 kit for a while and love it. I would love to join the club but at the current moment im building a MM H2Go case so ill put a link so i dont flood ur board with a bunch of pics
http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...-case-mod.html
I think the only pic i have right now is a pic of the res/pump







[/IMG]


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12120512*
> I meant so I could have a 360 and the 200mm fan.


By what I measured in my Haf-x, I can have 2x 200m fans ontop, the 360 RX rad below with 3 120mm fan below the rad for a push and pull setup, so air would be moving from the top of the Haf-x and exhausted through the back outlet.

RX360 *will* fit with 3x120 fans


----------



## Jude188

Do you guys think that an RX240 can cope with an overclocked i5 750 and an overclocked GTX460? Or should I get 1x RX240 and 1x RS240? Has to be 240mm rads due to shape.


----------



## [Adz]

An RX would handle them both at stock, or with just the CPU overclocked, but with both of them OC'd and Fermi's nature to get very hot, it's safer to get the second rad as well. An RX120 in addition would be ideal, but if you've only got the space for an RS120, it's better than not having it there at all.

Edit: I've just realised you said 1x RX240 and 1x RS240. The combination of the two would be fine and handle both the cpu and gpu.


----------



## Jude188

So what about 2xRS240 would that cool it effectively?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jude188;12122426*
> So what about 2xRS240 would that cool it effectively?


2x RS240's are almost the same as 1x RX240.
RS240 Depth: 35mm
RX240 Depth: 63mm

So you'd be better off with your original solution of 1x RX240 and 1x RS240 (which is close to having 3x RS240).
I edited my post above because I misread it originally and thought you said RS120.
Just to clarify, an RX240 and an RS240 in combination should handle your system.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Pics of my kit will be up later today... I have them on my camera but im already at work... I have the RS240 kit... So far I've been getting 60ish deg C on a 4.7Ghz clock on my i7.

I tried to go higher but core voltage wasent doing it... I havent tried pll yet... but I'd like to see better temperatures... I'm looking into a bigger rad since the rs 240's is kinda small... but otherwise its a great kit...







I'm happy with it.


----------



## DullBoi

Oh my, I cant stop myslef. . . 669.04 total for WC setup so far !! Yikes, if I was still staying with my parents, my mom would of totally flipped when she saw my cooling bill







, makes me wonder, should of stayed with the H50 and gotten a aircon . . haha NEVER!!

WC is so nice, btw incoming update


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12121288*
> I am definitely not happy with this XSPC system, something tells me I should have gone swifttech. So now I have a dead pump then?


Make sure and fill the res all the way up, unplug your video card, cpu connectors and the 24 pin connector, the take the white plug that came with the kit and plug in into the 24 pin connector.
flip the switch on the back of the PSU on make sure the water doesn't get too low then cut it off. fill it back up and cut it back on. Make sure everything related to the pump is plugged it.
Also make sure your molex power cable isnt' crap. try a different cable from your psu..


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;12123113*
> Oh my, I cant stop myslef. . . 669.04 total for WC setup so far !! Yikes, if I was still staying with my parents, my mom would of totally flipped when she saw my cooling bill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , makes me wonder, should of stayed with the H50 and gotten a aircon . . haha NEVER!!
> 
> WC is so nice, btw incoming update


You know jab-tech has much better prices on most that stuf and has a coupon "facebook" that gets you 5% off your order and frozencpu has a coupon also its on the first page i thk its pcapex.

And my 2nd rad is here lol fedex was a ninja i never heard him i just decided to check my email and already had one saying it was deliverd.


----------



## replin

What do I do now? Do I RMA it or should I call the company that sold it to me?


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12123225*
> Make sure and fill the res all the way up, unplug your video card, cpu connectors and the 24 pin connector, the take the white plug that came with the kit and plug in into the 24 pin connector.
> flip the switch on the back of the PSU on make sure the water doesn't get too low then cut it off. fill it back up and cut it back on. Make sure everything related to the pump is plugged it.
> Also make sure your molex power cable isnt' crap. try a different cable from your psu..


There was only one molex connector plug coming from the pump and thats it. So am I missing something? What would be the point of plugging in the 24 pin priming connector into the motherboard if my psu wont be plugged into it? Since my water cooling system will be on only, then what would be the point? I'm confused in how this is installed at that point. Since the wire sticks out of the 24 pin connector I'm just puzzled.

Update: Oh wait you mean take the psu side of the 24 pin connector and plug it into the white priming 24 pin connector. Gotcha. I'm at work so I will have to try it during lunch.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Update: Oh wait you mean take the psu side of the 24 pin connector and plug it into the white priming 24 pin connector. Gotcha. I'm at work so I will have to try it during lunch.



Correct. That jumper allows the PSU to power up the pump but not the motherboard... in case of any leaks, this is a BIG PLUS!


----------



## kingofyo1

Personally if noise and price are issues either get gt fans or yate loons and a fc

Sent from my HTC HD2 using Tapatalk


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Correct. That jumper allows the PSU to power up the pump but not the motherboard... in case of any leaks, this is a BIG PLUS!


But if it didn't power up in the first place with out the primer doesn't that mean it still wont work? Is the primer absolutely essential to making it work? I'm considering buying the same res but with a MCP655 if this doesnt work. I installed my gpu blocks on my 570s and my cpu yesterday I really hope this works.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


But if it didn't power up in the first place with out the primer doesn't that mean it still wont work? Is the primer absolutely essential to making it work? I'm considering buying the same res but with a MCP655 if this doesnt work. I installed my gpu blocks on my 570s and my cpu yesterday I really hope this works.


Okay, I've watched your posts here for a little while and can't really make sense of exactly what you're doing here (maybe my fault, not feeling well), so I'm going to write out exactly what you need to do.

1) Assemble your entire rig - put all the components in place, set the loop up with all the tubing - pretty much exactly how it would be if you were running it for real.
2) Unplug every power cable from the PSU that attached to anything inside the computer - remove the 8-pin CPU power connector, 24-pin ATX, 6/8 Pin PCI-e, all the SATA and Molex power connectors.... EVERYTHING. Also, make sure the PSU is off, either from the mains or the switch on the back of it.
3) Plug the pump into one of the connectors on the PSU. 
4) Take the white ATX socket with the red loop on it that came with the kit and plug it into the ATX power connector on the PSU. Don't try and stick it on the motherboard, it has to go into the PSU side.
5) Make sure you have water in the reservoir.
6) Switch the PSU on from the mains switch (or the switch on the back of the PSU).

If, after doing that in that exact order, your pump doesn't work, then you have a problem.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DullBoi*


Oh my, I cant stop myslef. . . 669.04 total for WC setup so far !! Yikes, if I was still staying with my parents, my mom would of totally flipped when she saw my cooling bill







, makes me wonder, should of stayed with the H50 and gotten a aircon . . haha NEVER!!

WC is so nice, btw incoming update



















You can get the RASA 750 RX360 kit complete for $199.00. All you'd need to do after that is change out the hose to some nice 1/2 ID Feser or Primochill and you're done. Save yourself $150.00


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Okay, I've watched your posts here for a little while and can't really make sense of exactly what you're doing here (maybe my fault, not feeling well), so I'm going to write out exactly what you need to do.

1) Assemble your entire rig - put all the components in place, set the loop up with all the tubing - pretty much exactly how it would be if you were running it for real.
2) Unplug every power cable from the PSU that attached to anything inside the computer - remove the 8-pin CPU power connector, 24-pin ATX, 6/8 Pin PCI-e, all the SATA and Molex power connectors.... EVERYTHING. Also, make sure the PSU is off, either from the mains or the switch on the back of it.
3) Plug the pump into one of the connectors on the PSU. 
4) Take the white ATX socket with the red loop on it that came with the kit and plug it into the ATX power connector on the PSU. Don't try and stick it on the motherboard, it has to go into the PSU side.
5) Make sure you have water in the reservoir.
6) Switch the PSU on from the mains switch (or the switch on the back of the PSU).

If, after doing that in that exact order, your pump doesn't work, then you have a problem.


I second that. Do exactly as per above and you can't go wrong.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well im not happy i put in my new rad and im not getting any better temps almost identical.

res/pump > cpu > rx360 >gpu > rx240 > res/pump


----------



## [Adz]

Got an intake anywhere near the bottom rad? Doesn't look like it's getting much cool air to push through the rad. Also, where is the air going on the other side of the rad? Does the bottom of the case have vents there?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12126540*
> Well im not happy i put in my new rad and im not getting any better temps almost identical.
> 
> res/pump > cpu > rx360 >gpu > rx240 > res/pump


Why don't you go straight from the rad to the CPU/GPU? The pump dumps heat into the loop that could be harming temps if the pump doesn't send water straight to the rad.

Also, you are probably more flow (water and air) limited than rad limited.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well i was gonna do it that way but charlie said it would be better this way cause of the less tubing. I do think i have alot of air in the loop still because my water level just droped a full inch or more. And doing it this way i was able to get it where i have no real tight bends or kinking to hurt flow.


----------



## Blameless

How hot was the rad getting before?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

it was wierd befor sometimes it would be hot sometimes cool right now the the top rx360 is putting out cool to luke warm air and the bottom rx240 is doing the same folding and boincing at 4300 1.35 my temps are kinda jumping around but hottest is 63-60-63-6 and 35 on gpu.


----------



## thrasherht

You might not have been loading up the single rad setup, so adding a new rad didn't do anything to help because your gpu and CPU are already getting ambient temp water.

That is just my thoughts as the cause.

What were your temps before.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

pretty much identical to what im getting now lol and maybe even little hotter lol.


----------



## thrasherht

Well you might have never loaded up the first rad, so in turn adding another will not effect it.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12127711*
> Well you might have never loaded up the first rad, so in turn adding another will not effect it.


lol yea im noticing running 4400 my temps are lower on core 2 3 4 but 1 is about the same but more rads should still keep the water even cooler unless im already running super close to room temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];12126611*
> Got an intake anywhere near the bottom rad? Doesn't look like it's getting much cool air to push through the rad. Also, where is the air going on the other side of the rad? Does the bottom of the case have vents there?


Yea the bottom is cut out for a 240rad and i got a front bottom fan and at the top i got a top front fan intake for the 360 rad.


----------



## charliehorse55

A 1-2C drop is all that would happen with your current fan speeds. However, this is not a total loss! You can now turn the fans all they way down to about 1000 RPM without affecting your temperatures by more than 2-3C.


----------



## wermad

wow, the led included w/ the res blew out within a minute. hooked it up to the molex psu harness. quality needs a bit more improvement XSPC







!


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12127998*
> wow, the led included w/ the res blew out within a minute. hooked it up to the molex psu harness. quality needs a bit more improvement XSPC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Wow. I don't think I even used mine for more than a few minutes. I bought some red ones instead


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12127998*
> wow, the led included w/ the res blew out within a minute. hooked it up to the molex psu harness. quality needs a bit more improvement XSPC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Wierd mine led has been going strong exactly a month no problems.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12127998*
> wow, the led included w/ the res blew out within a minute. hooked it up to the molex psu harness. quality needs a bit more improvement XSPC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


the LED is a 5v LED, not 12v, so if somehow it was setup to hook to the 12v then I can see how that happened. I hooked mine up to the 12v rail on accident because I had a molex to molex that switched them so i can run 12v stuff at 5v. and it changed colors pretty quick.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliehorse55;12127846*
> A 1-2C drop is all that would happen with your current fan speeds. However, this is not a total loss! You can now turn the fans all they way down to about 1000 RPM without affecting your temperatures by more than 2-3C.


Oh only 1-2c i was thinking 5c+ drop lol i have notied in last hr iv had to fill my res 3 times so still working air out i guess also.


----------



## wermad

I just hooked it up and it started flashing a few times, I noticed the resistor was very hot, then it went out completely. its ok, I wasn't too serious about adding it anyways.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12128016*
> the LED is a 5v LED, not 12v, so if somehow it was setup to hook to the 12v then I can see how that happened. I hooked mine up to the 12v rail on accident because I had a molex to molex that switched them so i can run 12v stuff at 5v. and it changed colors pretty quick.


it was spliced into the yellow on the molex, and I know that is 12v.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

haha thats why it burnt you you sent double the voltage thru the little led.


----------



## wermad

that's how it came, still weird.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol someone was color blind when they did the wiring.


----------



## thrasherht

LOL, failed wiring. That is why things like that should be designed for 12v so they can't possibly be overvolted by a PSU.


----------



## wermad

red wire from the led spliced with yellow wire on the molex: seemed unusual but that is how it came so i didn't mess with it. I know led are a pita to customize so I left it as is. oh well, I'll just get another one some other time.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Yea but its a cheapie so they probly dont wanna spend much on it lol. And i shoulda saved my money lol i seem to maybe droped a little folding at 4400 but 4300mhz is same temps as a single 360.


----------



## wermad

I should rma it


----------



## jamborhgini313

I know the barbs are 1/2in but will they fit 1/2 3/4 tubing? I just ordered an extra 12 feet of tubing since I ordered the wrong barbs and the 7/16 won't work.


----------



## Live_free

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12128066*
> haha thats why it burnt you you sent double the voltage thru the little led.


So there is a specific plug you need to plug the pump into? My psu is fully modular.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12128181*
> So there is a specific plug you need to plug the pump into? My psu is fully modular.


Umm?? I don't want to sound mean, but are you serious? The pump is molex. It is a 12v pump, what else would you plug it into?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12128181*
> So there is a specific plug you need to plug the pump into? My psu is fully modular.


Any 4pin Molex will do


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12128172*
> I know the barbs are 1/2in but will they fit 1/2 3/4 tubing? I just ordered an extra 12 feet of tubing since I ordered the wrong barbs and the 7/16 won't work.


wait what?

if you have 1/2in barbs, they will work with 1/2in tubing and 7/16in tubing. The 7/16in tubing will just make a very nice tight seal on the barb.

Do you really need 12 feet? that is a ton, I only used like half of my 8 feet I got.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12127998*
> wow, the led included w/ the res blew out within a minute. hooked it up to the molex psu harness. quality needs a bit more improvement XSPC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12128172*
> I know the barbs are 1/2in but will they fit 1/2 3/4 tubing? I just ordered an extra 12 feet of tubing since I ordered the wrong barbs and the 7/16 won't work.


um barbs are 1/2inch they will fit 1/2inch and 7/6 tubing nothing else as far as i recall.


----------



## ttaylor0024

What would be the difference in temperature in a CPU only loop with a 240 against a 360 radiator?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

for amd your temps probly woulnt be much differt as you dont put out a ton of heat.


----------



## ttaylor0024

So like 1-2C?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12128221*
> wait what?
> 
> if you have 1/2in barbs, they will work with 1/2in tubing and 7/16in tubing. The 7/16in tubing will just make a very nice tight seal on the barb.
> 
> Do you really need 12 feet? that is a ton, I only used like half of my 8 feet I got.


I actually have 22 feet of tubing on the way ahahaha 10 of 7/16 just incase.. and 12 feet of 1/2 ID 3/4 OD


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12128303*
> What would be the difference in temperature in a CPU only loop with a 240 against a 360 radiator?


My cpu is like max of 43-44c with my RS360. You would have to find somebody with the same chip on an RS240 and see if it is any different.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12128402*
> I actually have 22 feet of tubing on the way ahahaha 10 of 7/16 just incase.. and 12 feet of 1/2 ID 3/4 OD


That's as much as the human small intestine.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12128417*
> My cpu is like max of 43-44c with my RS360. You would have to find somebody with the same chip on an RS240 and see if it is any different.


my 965 at 4.14 is max 42 C


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];12128472*
> That's as much as the human small intestine.


Maybe he plans on adding 10 loops with 15 rads and 6 pumps....didn't think of that did you??


----------



## drka0tic

Maybe he bolted his rad to the outside of his home


----------



## mbudden

All you need is roughly 2-3 meters of tubing. Don't need more than that.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12128889*
> Maybe he bolted his rad to the outside of his home


lol good idea i could stay loaded at 30c if i did that in winter time lol.


----------



## kingofyo1

woot just set up a push/pull system on my radiator with a bunch of different fans LOL got 2 delta 3krpms, 1 3krpm a2018 thermaltake, 2 of the xigmatek stockers, and a nzxt molex running at god knows what speed







now I need to get about 3 radiator grilles or one big 360mm grille, what yall think?


----------



## Live_free

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12128207*
> Umm?? I don't want to sound mean, but are you serious? The pump is molex. It is a 12v pump, what else would you plug it into?


Just making sure any 4 pin molex would do because someone said he burned his LED out.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;12129281*
> woot just set up a push/pull system on my radiator with a bunch of different fans LOL got 2 delta 3krpms, 1 3krpm a2018 thermaltake, 2 of the xigmatek stockers, and a nzxt molex running at god knows what speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I need to get about 3 radiator grilles or one big 360mm grille, what yall think?


well it will be cheaper to get fan grills i got 3 from jab-tech for like 3 bucks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12129284*
> Just making sure any 4 pin molex would do because someone said he burned his LED out.


yes, the pump requires a 12v connection, your molex has a specific shape to it so you can't mess it up.

yes, my led was apparently wired incorrectly, this might have been a oversight by the manufacturer. Do I care about the led, no! they are a cheap and can be replaced immediately.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;12129281*
> woot just set up a push/pull system on my radiator with a bunch of different fans LOL got 2 delta 3krpms, 1 3krpm a2018 thermaltake, 2 of the xigmatek stockers, and a nzxt molex running at god knows what speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I need to get about 3 radiator grilles or one big 360mm grille, what yall think?


Do you have the RX rad? If so anything over 1,500 rpm is really wasted. In fact difference between 1,500 and nearly silent 1,200 is very small and not really worth it. This is a low resistance rad.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol yea i wish i could limit mine without a fan controler i dont need this much rpms.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12130078*
> lol yea i wish i could limit mine without a fan controler i dont need this much rpms.


Plug the fans into the motherboard and enable Q-Fan control in BIOS. The fans that come with XSPC kits work with BIOS fan control. I have since bought a fan controller and have them plugged into that. Not seeing any worse temps with the fans turned down.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol i dont have the offical rasa kit i got yate loons 6 of them on my rx360 and 4 on my rx240.


----------



## sgilmore62

Plug 2 into CPU header 2 in the power header and 2 in one of the chassis headers. The CPU header has the most control in BIOS.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol would look ugly tho i like a clean looking computer lol way i have it even if i cant control fans it does have a nice clean look.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];12125523*
> Okay, I've watched your posts here for a little while and can't really make sense of exactly what you're doing here (maybe my fault, not feeling well), so I'm going to write out exactly what you need to do.
> 
> 1) Assemble your entire rig - put all the components in place, set the loop up with all the tubing - pretty much exactly how it would be if you were running it for real.
> 2) Unplug every power cable from the PSU that attached to anything inside the computer - remove the 8-pin CPU power connector, 24-pin ATX, 6/8 Pin PCI-e, all the SATA and Molex power connectors.... EVERYTHING. Also, make sure the PSU is off, either from the mains or the switch on the back of it.
> 3) Plug the pump into one of the connectors on the PSU.
> 4) Take the white ATX socket with the red loop on it that came with the kit and plug it into the ATX power connector on the PSU. Don't try and stick it on the motherboard, it has to go into the PSU side.
> 5) Make sure you have water in the reservoir.
> 6) Switch the PSU on from the mains switch (or the switch on the back of the PSU).
> 
> If, after doing that in that exact order, your pump doesn't work, then you have a problem.


I did all that and no dice.XSPC quality


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12131499*
> I did all that and no dice.XSPC quality


oh boy. RMA time


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


I did all that and no dice.XSPC quality










Well you would be the first with a pump that's never worked, That I've seen. Send them a email im sure they will send a new one right way!


----------



## replin

Jab tech resulted in being useless. I thought maybe I could return the res/pump in exchange for a mcp655/res and I'll pay the difference, but no go there. Then I exchanged emails with the guys from XSPC in Texas and curious to see what they will do. By tomorrow I will make my decision. I think I will have to end up buying a MCP 655 with a xspc res, another $180 including s/h just so I can see if my system works. I'm very disappointed with xspc and jab-tech. I got a LAN party this weekend and all my friends were curious to see of my experience with this kit. I will definitely have an answer for them. I just hope XSPC can redeem themselves before then.

Thank you very much for your help.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Jab tech resulted in being useless. I thought maybe I could return the res/pump in exchange for a mcp655/res and I'll pay the difference, but no go there. Then I exchanged emails with the guys from XSPC in Texas and curious to see what they will do. By tomorrow I will make my decision. I think I will have to end up buying a MCP 655 with a xspc res, another $180 including s/h just so I can see if my system works. I'm very disappointed with xspc and jab-tech. I got a LAN party this weekend and all my friends were curious to see of my experience with this kit. I will definitely have an answer for them. I just hope XSPC can redeem themselves before then.

Thank you very much for your help.


I dont see how they would give you a exchange sence the pump came in a kit best case would be maybe a fulll refund for the kit or replacement pump from xspc.


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


You know jab-tech has much better prices on most that stuf and has a coupon "facebook" that gets you 5% off your order and frozencpu has a coupon also its on the first page i thk its pcapex.

And my 2nd rad is here lol fedex was a ninja i never heard him i just decided to check my email and already had one saying it was deliverd.


I have a 10% discount coupon with frozen, Jabtech does not ship to South Africa, so I have frozen to get my things from.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


You can get the RASA 750 RX360 kit complete for $199.00. All you'd need to do after that is change out the hose to some nice 1/2 ID Feser or Primochill and you're done. Save yourself $150.00










I already have a kit, the RS240,with a extra 120mm Black Ice GTS X-flow and two GPU blocks, FC5970 + FC5850. My pump might not make it, hence the new pump/res combo. Would be using the current X20 to cool my second rigs CPU in a few months time.

Thanks for pointing out JT and the kits


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


lol would look ugly tho i like a clean looking computer lol way i have it even if i cant control fans it does have a nice clean look.











Bal3, you said next to no improvements in tempS?

Turn those fans around on the RX240, why thet pushing into the ground? Get as much airflow inside your case, and let the exhaust take the rest out.


----------



## chano305

Hey all, been a couple of days since I've been in but I wanted to update on my pump situation. Between XSPC and Jab-Tech support (largely Jab-Tech poking XSPC I think, really) I got my new pump in and installed it today, MUCH better this time around. My pump makes a barely audible hum, I can keep my fans inaudible. Honestly I think the loudest thing in my case now is either the PSU or the front 200mm intake fan









So finally updated my spec, I'm a happy camper now.

XSPC Rasa RS240 + RX120 as well as a GTX Razor waterblock, and all running smooth


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chano305*


Hey all, been a couple of days since I've been in but I wanted to update on my pump situation. Between XSPC and Jab-Tech support (largely Jab-Tech poking XSPC I think, really) I got my new pump in and installed it today, MUCH better this time around. My pump makes a barely audible hum, I can keep my fans inaudible. Honestly I think the loudest thing in my case now is either the PSU or the front 200mm intake fan









So finally updated my spec, I'm a happy camper now.

XSPC Rasa RS240 + RX120 as well as a GTX Razor waterblock, and all running smooth


Temps? OC?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DullBoi*


Bal3, you said next to no improvements in tempS?

Turn those fans around on the RX240, why thet pushing into the ground? Get as much airflow inside your case, and let the exhaust take the rest out.










Big drawback doing that is the top rad then would be sucking in hot air thier is a front fan in the bottom and top.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Big drawback doing that is the top rad then would be sucking in hot air thier is a front fan in the bottom and top.


Couldn't be getting THAT hot inside that case though with all the air movement right? really couldn't hurt to try seeing as how temps are not any better as is...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Not sure remmber i fold and boinc the air coming out of the rads is usualy pretty warm it would be sending that right to the other rad. The air off the bottom rad is pretty dang hot and top one is cool almost like my 360 is doing nothing.


----------



## chano305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Temps? OC?


CPU is at 3.6 GHz with HT
GTX 580 is at stock.

Highest core during gaming is 53ish for cpu and mid 40s for gpu. Prime95 on cpu test maxes at 55 without having to increase fan speed above what I keep it on normally, which is below the case fan noise level.


----------



## Jonesey I7

SO.......... who wants to pop my 100 cherry.









:edit: OH IT HURTS IT HURTS LOL.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea you say that now but probly saying more more more in the back of your head.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


yea you say that now but probly saying more more more in the back of your head.


lol, bal3 you got ninja'd.


----------



## thrasherht

you know it only hurts because you LOVE IT!

ever heard the phrase. It hurts so good.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


lol, bal3 you got ninja'd.


UM no you was to slow as always


----------



## thrasherht

Holy off topic batman! LOL.

I love how we have like 5 different people that like to hijack this thread randomly. Me being one of them.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


UM no you was to slow as always










hehehehehe that's not what jonesy said


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


hehehehehe that's not what jonesy said


How did you hear jonesy when you was behide him


----------



## thrasherht

Directional mic for the win.

LOL thread officially hijacked.


----------



## Jonesey I7

hey hey hey.... I don't talk when making sweet sweet love now. get it right.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12132705*
> hey hey hey.... I don't talk when making sweet sweet love now. get it right.


BAhahahahahahha


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12132705*
> hey hey hey.... I don't talk when making sweet sweet love now. get it right.


he was actually reading your mind, but couldn't see you mouth so he thought you were saying it.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12132718*
> he was actually reading your mind, but couldn't see you mouth so he thought you were saying it.


On that note, I'm whipped ( pun intended ) good night all.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12132728*
> On that note, I'm whipped ( pun intended ) good night all.


Good night yo.


----------



## thrasherht

Good night.


----------



## fr0st.

Good morning!

(I just woke up







)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0st.;12132886*
> Good morning!
> 
> (I just woke up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Good morning sunshine.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12132893*
> Good morning sunshine.


Good afternoon would have been more appropriate









(It was 2pm >.>)


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol aussies and thier wierd time







its like a entire day ahead of me over in parts of aussie land


----------



## Live_free

Anyone have any advice on filling up the res? Don't want to overflow all over my computer. I will try to move it as far out of the case as I can and make tubing a little longer to be safe. Any tips to a noob! Thanks!


----------



## fr0st.

Just fill it up, cycle the pump (on then off, on then off, etc) and the water level will go down.

Repeat until you have all air out of loop, done!

When you're trying to get all the air out of the system, put the res cap on tight(!) and shake the whole tower around, pinch tubing and give the res light knocks. The rad too, as that can be a nice home for bubbles. Evict them!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


lol aussies and thier wierd time







its like a entire day ahead of me over in parts of aussie land










Yeah, well, I DID wake up at 2 in the afternoon. I think it's 8 hours difference to the US depending on state.


----------



## AMOCO

i pull res/pump as far to front of case,remove cap,and use a small funnel and a plastc cup.
and i fill it full and then run pump for a sec.,then fill some more and tilt it so i can fill all the way to the cap.then cap it and i'm ready


----------



## DullBoi

Bal3, so the top fans are pushing air out of your box? mmmh?

Just curious . . .

I got my setup with the top rad pulling air in, and my exhaust being the only place where air travels outwards







and oh boy does those two back fans push alot of air









360 doing nothing(chilly air), that cant be right








, cause I plan on getting one but if it like that then I'm dumping the 360 order as its almost a 100 bucks.

Peace yo


----------



## Live_free

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0st.*


Just fill it up, cycle the pump (on then off, on then off, etc) and the water level will go down.

Repeat until you have all air out of loop, done!

When you're trying to get all the air out of the system, put the res cap on tight(!) and shake the whole tower around, pinch tubing and give the res light knocks. The rad too, as that can be a nice home for bubbles. Evict them!

Yeah, well, I DID wake up at 2 in the afternoon. I think it's 8 hours difference to the US depending on state.


Thanks! When you say evict them just open up the res and poor more water in to displace that air? Or what? lol

Anyone know which of these is a better block?

http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-nVidia-58...l-pr-4789.html

http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-nVidia-58...X-pr-4788.html

I like the black look better, but if the other is better on temps that is the way I am going.


----------



## fr0st.

Yeah, when the water level goes down in the res just open it up and fill 'er up again.

They're both exactly the same, I would pick the acetal one (the black on) becuase acrylic can crack, + It's cheaper, black one for the win!


----------



## AMOCO

1st one:http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-nVidia-58...l-pr-4789.html


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


Thanks! When you say evict them just open up the res and poor more water in to displace that air? Or what? lol

Anyone know which of these is a better block?

http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-nVidia-58...l-pr-4789.html

http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-nVidia-58...X-pr-4788.html

I like the black look better, but if the other is better on temps that is the way I am going.


Acetal ones are better, think about it, does acrylic conduct heat transfer?

I have both and found that the acetal ones tend to run 1-3C hotter on the same card.

ps. dont have the 580 blocks, but on my 5850 Ive had both acetal and acrylic, with the same TIM and mem pads.

Cheers


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DullBoi*


Acetal ones are better, think about it, does acrylic conduct heat transfer?

I have both and found that the acetal ones tend to run 1-3C hotter on the same card.

ps. dont have the 580 blocks, but on my 5850 Ive had both acetal and acrylic, with the same TIM and mem pads.

Cheers










i was thinking like frost about the acrylic,not in terms of temps and heat.


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12133840*
> i was thinking like frost about the acrylic,not in terms of temps and heat.


Hehe,









black looks nicer


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;12133855*
> Hehe,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> black looks nicer


i agree


----------



## terraprime

will these kits fit on a SB?


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terraprime;12133864*
> will these kits fit on a SB?


ja meneer !

Yes sir, just watch out some SB mobos have a phat backplate behind the CPU socket







then you might need to get separate springs(smaller ones)


----------



## terraprime

would the Biostar TP67XE be one of those?


----------



## terraprime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;12133880*
> ja meneer !
> 
> Yes sir, just watch out some SB mobos have a phat backplate behind the CPU socket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then you might need to get separate springs(smaller ones)


Would the Biostar TP67XE be one of those mobos? Also how good are the pumps that come with the kit?

crap double posted again (cries in corner) lol.


----------



## Drexra

Did a quick forum search and couldn't find an answer to: Heya, I'm looking at the 360 kit when I build my first desktop later this year, but I'm trying to go for red and black, and the blue LED just wont do









I realize it sounds petty, but is there a way to not have that LED in the resevoir, or turn the LED off?

Thanks!


----------



## Live_free

Will make a thread, nvm.


----------



## Live_free

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drexra;12133898*
> Did a quick forum search and couldn't find an answer to: Heya, I'm looking at the 360 kit when I build my first desktop later this year, but I'm trying to go for red and black, and the blue LED just wont do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I realize it sounds petty, but is there a way to not have that LED in the resevoir, or turn the LED off?
> 
> Thanks!


Nvm


----------



## AMOCO

yes it does have a backplate on that motherboard


----------



## Drexra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12133907*
> Mod it, put whatever cooler LED you want or just take it out. You will need a solder gun though.


Is there a way without the need to go to home depot and buy a tool? XD


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drexra*


Is there a way without the need to go to home depot and buy a tool? XD


You don't have to use the led. You have to install it when you get the kit.


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


yes it does have a backplate on that motherboard


Couldn't get a pic, but I believe my fellow OCN members confirmation









take the measurements of the springs when you get the kit, go to a hardware store and get 5mm smaller ones(in length), and you'll be set to go.


----------



## Drexra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


You don't have to use the led. You have to install it when you get the kit.


Awesome possum! Was hoping for that, because I like how the reservoir goes into where the disc drives would, I think thats really cool! Pretty much the bomb diggity!


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DullBoi*


Couldn't get a pic, but I believe my fellow OCN members confirmation









take the measurements of the springs when you get the kit, go to a hardware store and get 5mm smaller ones(in length), and you'll be set to go.










click on the newegg pics and it will show you the back of the motherboard,
here:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813138289


----------



## Bastyn99

WoW. Just got my new Core I5 with the Rasa RS 240 kit up and running and im getting great temps ! 4.2 GHz @ 1.33v, temps are just above 60c







now, it might only be like 15c in the room but still







ill take some pics later







I am very satisfied !


----------



## Devildog_13

Just got my rx360 kit! All the way from Jab-tech too. Still waiting for my mobo though...


----------



## UnFeX3

Send my pump rma yesterday. was making bad noise.

  
 YouTube: XSPC X2O 750 Pump Noise


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


WoW. Just got my new Core I5 with the Rasa RS 240 kit up and running and im getting great temps ! 4.2 GHz @ 1.33v, temps are just above 60c







now, it might only be like 15c in the room but still







ill take some pics later







I am very satisfied !


I should be getting temps this good but i'm not??!!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnFeX3*


Send my pump rma yesterday. was making bad noise.
YouTube: XSPC X2O 750 Pump Noise


Had the same exact problem here. Just got my replacement pump in. Hopefully I will test it this evening before installing it.

:-D


----------



## Jonesey I7

Guess who just got 50Mb internet service.


----------



## DullBoi

https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?...en&output=html

A little spreadsheet showing temperatures above ambient.

XSPC Rasa Kit + RS240 + Black Ice GTS X-flow 120mm rad + FC5970 + FC5850 and lots of tubing(8.9ft).

Hope it helps some who are looking for temperature performances of these kit.

Oh and the CPU folds 24/7. hence the high temps









Cheers


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

how do my temps look fellas? I still think I may have some air bubbles. My GF thought I was crazy shaking and tilting my machine at weird angles hahahaha
Attachment 192105


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12135425*
> I should be getting temps this good but i'm not??!!


Well Im using MX-3 paste, maybe thats why







?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnFeX3;12134555*
> Send my pump rma yesterday. was making bad noise.
> YouTube: XSPC X2O 750 Pump Noise


My pump started making this sounds aswell after a couple of hours. Does it really mean its broken or is it just water bubbles or something that will go away eventually ?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12135664*
> Guess who just got 50Mb internet service.


Throw a water block on it and cool it down!

J/K

Gratz man! I have to live with 2.5Mb... :-(


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;12136179*
> My pump started making this sounds aswell after a couple of hours. Does it really mean its broken or is it just water bubbles or something that will go away eventually ?


If it sounds like UnFeX3's, then it's better to be on the safe side and change it. His (and mine as well) had a very annoying rattling sound. XSPC (and John at Jab-Tech) both stated to me that in my case, that was unacceptable noise and replaced. I have my replacement running a 4 hour test right now. So far... Silent as a baby sleeping! Just a light hum which you can hear only if you put your ear about 2-3 inches away from the reservoir.


----------



## premonition08

did a little mod on my CM elite 370 case. before my rad sucks air from the bottom of the case. i removed the hard disk bays and move my hard disk on top using 3.5 to 5.25 drive bay adapter followed by the dvd writer then the bay res/pump. my mod skills are limited and i only have cutters to cut the mesh in front of the case. i have a small switch that serves as my delta fan controller and i use a magnetic fan filter. i'm going to do some test on the temps later. as for now my idle core temp is 37C. looks promising since before the mod i get 42C core temp. both at 25C ambient temps..


----------



## replin

Anyone plan on buying from Jabtech? If so avoid them like a plague. Worst company by far I've ever had to deal with. Extremely difficult to deal with. They know I was strapped for time since its my busy season and I work 12 hours a day and John over at jab-tech knowing this offered to have me ship the product back to the manufacturer paying shipping both ways then sending the product back to him once it was fixed by the manufacturer paying shipping to him as well. Now the amount of money I would spend in shipping would equal or surpass the value of the pump/res. Wow thats a smart guy.

Last I checked it was Jabtechs job to do that as with all companies in retail. Then he knows I have very little time so he offers to have the product shipped back to him and then when they check it they will send a new one free shipping, (THATS A GIVEN).


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12138131*
> Anyone plan on buying from Jabtech? If so avoid them like a plague. Worst company by far I've ever had to deal with. Extremely difficult to deal with. They know I was strapped for time since its my busy season and I work 12 hours a day and John over at jab-tech knowing this offered to have me ship the product back to the manufacturer paying shipping both ways then sending the product back to him once it was fixed by the manufacturer paying shipping to him as well. Now the amount of money I would spend in shipping would equal or surpass the value of the pump/res. Wow thats a smart guy.
> 
> Last I checked it was Jabtechs job to do that as with all companies in retail. Then he knows I have very little time so he offers to have the product shipped back to him and then when they check it they will send a new one free shipping, (THATS A GIVEN).


Sorry to hear that... I have had good service from them even when having problems with my parts/components. Not sure this is the right thread for this type of comment though but thanks for the feedback all the same.


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12137643*
> If it sounds like UnFeX3's, then it's better to be on the safe side and change it. His (and mine as well) had a very annoying rattling sound. XSPC (and John at Jab-Tech) both stated to me that in my case, that was unacceptable noise and replaced. I have my replacement running a 4 hour test right now. So far... Silent as a baby sleeping! Just a light hum which you can hear only if you put your ear about 2-3 inches away from the reservoir.


But does it actually mean that its broken ? Does it not work, will it eventually get worse, leak, explode or whatever ? or is it just the annoying sound ?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;12135810*
> https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0AgaEDkbMnK76dDNnVjV4RUZ2WlQ4cHpDQjFlRmtLX0E&hl=en&output=html
> 
> A little spreadsheet showing temperatures above ambient.
> 
> XSPC Rasa Kit + RS240 + Black Ice GTS X-flow 120mm rad + FC5970 + FC5850 and lots of tubing(8.9ft).
> 
> Hope it helps some who are looking for temperature performances of these kit.
> 
> Oh and the CPU folds 24/7. hence the high temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


lol dont guess i can really complain im folding on cpu and boincing on gpu and at 4300 i hit 66-64-66-64 at 4400 its about 3c higher.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12139318*
> lol dont guess i can really complain im folding on cpu and boincing on gpu and at 4300 i hit 66-64-66-64 at 4400 its about 3c higher.


how do I setup bionic?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;12139220*
> But does it actually mean that its broken ? Does it not work, will it eventually get worse, leak, explode or whatever ? or is it just the annoying sound ?


Mine works perfectly fine... for now. I just don't think that any chances should be taken since I do not know for sure if 2 hours from now it will quit on me or not. If you are gaming and have your headphones on, you will not hear the rattling stop and therefore not realize it quit on you. Meanwhile, CPU is frying away... Not good.

I guess that if the manufacturer heard my video and immediately ordered a replacement sent to me, that is a sign that something is not right.

I just can't say for sure that it will be fine or not.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;12139404*
> how do I setup bionic?


http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-boinc-team/733459-boinc-essentials-thread-if-you-new.html
it has all the info you will need boinc is pretty easy to setup.


----------



## AMOCO

Well I got my 120mm rad. today:http://www.svc.com/rad-3110.html
And it fits in the back of my case,But I had to mount it with the barbs at the top.
It looks good sitting in there.Will post pics,next week when I get my motherboard waterblock,Koolance sent me the wrong one(







).
They shipped it yesterday and I shipped the wrong one back to them today(They paid the shipping).


----------



## Garanthor

I decided to remove the front cover plate off my H20 res/pump combo and I'm really liking the new look. My case has blue lEDs inside it which shine through the beautiful acrylic case along with the blue LED that is in the Res. With the movement of the water I get a nice aquarium like reflection which I really like. Has anyone else done that?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12141211*
> I decided to remove the front cover plate off my H20 res/pump combo and I'm really liking the new look. My case has blue lEDs inside it which shine through the beautiful acrylic case along with the blue LED that is in the Res. With the movement of the water I get a nice aquarium like reflection which I really like. Has anyone else done that?


Pics please.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I decided to remove the front cover plate off my H20 res/pump combo and I'm really liking the new look. My case has blue lEDs inside it which shine through the beautiful acrylic case along with the blue LED that is in the Res. With the movement of the water I get a nice aquarium like reflection which I really like. Has anyone else done that?










I didn't have any water in the res at the time (still don't tbh), but when I put dual red LEDs in, it was a little too strong my liking. Every time I moved past it, it kinda hurt my eyes. 
I'll try again once I have my loop set up though, but I think I'll probably keep the cover on.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


I didn't have any water in the res at the time (still don't tbh), but when I put dual red LEDs in, it was a little too strong my liking. Every time I moved past it, it kinda hurt my eyes. 
I'll try again once I have my loop set up though, but I think I'll probably keep the cover on.


Try it with just one LED on the outlet side with water. My water also has just a touch of Ferser One blue dye in (just a touch people so don't freak out).


----------



## logan666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnFeX3*


Send my pump rma yesterday. was making bad noise.
YouTube: XSPC X2O 750 Pump Noise


mines been making that sound 4 the last 2 weeks now lol


----------



## ttaylor0024

Can anyone comment on the temperature difference in a 240 vs 360 rad on an AMD chip?


----------



## thrasherht

My chip sits around 43c full load with 1.45 volts on my RS360 rad.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


My chip sits around 43c full load with 1.45 volts on my RS360 rad.


now that's amazing


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


now that's amazing










that is mounted inside a case too. I'm using AS5 and I have a ton of pressure on the chip, so it has a good mount.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


that is mounted inside a case too. I'm using AS5 and I have a ton of pressure on the chip, so it has a good mount.


good work thrasher..

I see about 60c with my chip at 3.6GHz @ 1.47v


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


My chip sits around 43c full load with 1.45 volts on my RS360 rad.


My chip at 4.14 sits around 41-42C full load with 1.55 volts on my RX360


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


My chip at 4.14 sits around 41-42C full load with 1.55 volts on my RX360


wow you need 1.55 volts for 4.1? damn. I am running my chip down at like 1.38 for 4ghz. You should see if you can get your voltage down.


----------



## wermad

my old 955Be maxed out around 41-43c oc to 4.0 (used an rs360 + mb block, a bit rad overkill though







)


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well guys turning my bottom rad to intake and leaving the top as exhaust is a no no but its droped my temps 3-6c on the cpu and a few on gpu even. Those are at folding and running boinc dnetc on the gpu hotter then running furmark on extreme.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Well guys turning my bottom rad to intake and leaving the top as exhaust is a no no but its droped my temps 3-6c on the cpu and a few on gpu even. Those are at folding and running boinc dnetc on the gpu hotter then running furmark on extreme.











Why is that a no no? That's the way I would set it up.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

they say cause the bottom rads heat is sucked into the top rad but for me this way is giving me a 3-6c drop in temps then having both rads as exhaust.


----------



## Kick

well. the guy dazhong from xspc is telling me my pump isnt loud enough for rma.

i sent him a vid...BUT it was recorded on my crappy phone so it doesnt really capture the pump noise. i dont have a camera and no way in hell will go out and spend 50 or so bucks on a camera just to get my x20 pump/res rma'd like it was supposed to be.

ive gone through watching 3-4 vids of bad pumps and am pretty damn sure my pump is bad.

it sounds like a constant HD usage and i can hear it 5-7 feet away at my bed over my yate loons and like 4 other fans. -_-

edit:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


If it sounds like UnFeX3's, then it's better to be on the safe side and change it. His (and mine as well) had a very annoying rattling sound. XSPC (and John at Jab-Tech) both stated to me that in my case, that was unacceptable noise and replaced. I have my replacement running a 4 hour test right now. So far... Silent as a baby sleeping! Just a light hum which you can hear only if you put your ear about 2-3 inches away from the reservoir.


can u post a video up?

or anyone with a "good" x20 pump


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


well. the guy dazhong from xspc is telling me my pump isnt loud enough for rma.

i sent him a vid...BUT it was recorded on my crappy phone so it doesnt really capture the pump noise. i dont have a camera and no way in hell will go out and spend 50 or so bucks on a camera just to get my x20 pump/res rma'd like it was supposed to be.

ive gone through watching 3-4 vids of bad pumps and am pretty damn sure my pump is bad.

it sounds like a constant HD usage and i can hear it 5-7 feet away at my bed over my yate loons and like 4 other fans. -_-

edit:

can u post a video up?


Yea its too loud, you should be able to RMA it. Before I switched to Swiftech MCP655, I had a RASA x20 dual bay res/pump and I couldn't hear it over 6 Silverstone FN121 fans. It was really quiet, had to put my ears next to the pump to actually hear something.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


they say cause the bottom rads heat is sucked into the top rad but for me this way is giving me a 3-6c drop in temps then having both rads as exhaust.


Well don't believe everything they say till you try it


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea and the bottom one was easy to test top one is um not easy lol and crazy at 4.2ghz it folds under 60c.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


yea and the bottom one was easy to test top one is um not easy lol and crazy at 4.2ghz it folds under 60c.


Yea I bet







Well I should get my RX360 kit Thursday. Can't wait, I just hope I get a good pump. Sounds like someones been sleeping on the job


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea im sorta glad i didnt get the xpsc kit and went mostly custom even tho i got my block that had like glue in it i got the xspc rasa cpu block xspc d5 res and a xspc rx360 and 240 i can say only issue was the seal glued to the blocks channels.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


can u post a video up?

or anyone with a "good" x20 pump


I can tomorrow....

Can you borrow a camera from someone???


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I can tomorrow....

Can you borrow a camera from someone???


not really.

my case is under my desk and i sit about 4-5 feet above my desk (estimate from the case to my ear ) and i hear the small rumbling HD-like noise. is that indicative of a bad pump?


----------



## AMDMAXX

Add me to the club pics of my RIG!


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


Add me to the club pics of my RIG!










 We have the same chair...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


not really.

my case is under my desk and i sit about 4-5 feet above my desk (estimate from the case to my ear ) and i hear the small rumbling HD-like noise. is that indicative of a bad pump?


Post your vid here


----------



## Kick

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*   Add me to the club pics of my RIG!








  
how're your temps and oc?

edit:

  
 You Tube  



 
it was recorded using my iphone 2g...that wasnt even made to support video recording so that's why this vid was so bad.

the noise is clear at around 10secs. just imagine that but from 5 feet away.


----------



## AMDMAXX

I think I didn't get such a hot chip (havent gotten it passed 4.7Ghz)... but the highest I've gotten it is up to 4.7 with a pretty high V-core... temps around 60 Degrees Celcius... (mind you ambient is really warm in my room if I push my chip...)

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1616868
I'm not so stable at that v-core...


----------



## AMDMAXX

Mine kinda sounds like that but you have to be right up on the thing to hear it...even my emperor 400 unit on my fish tank sounds like that... I don't know if there are any pumps that are acually silent...

But if you hear that from 5 feet away... then there is probably a chance you don't have such a hot pump... hows the water flow?

Mine's pretty good...

just wish I would have gotten the RX instead... and even a 360 rad...


----------



## Kick

can u hear it from where u sit?

and temp wise, i am decommissioning my rs240 kit and will mod my case/lap my block/open block, etc. so i switched back to air cooling for now


----------



## GoodInk

Kick you are going to need a better video than that. The only reason they want video is so they waste your time and their money replacing good pumps.


----------



## AMDMAXX

No I can't hear the pump from where I sit... I can if I put my ear up to it...

only things I dislike about this kit so far are...

A - Pump is in res and takes up a lot of room
B - The RS Radiator isn't all that good...

For a push pull setup I should have lower idle temps too... 32 degrees Celcius is just too high... it stays there even with the window open... and its -9 degrees celcius outside... so...

and yes I checked the flow... its in the right order... in's and out's are in the right spots too...

edit and I reseated the block twice...


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


No I can't hear the pump from where I sit... I can if I put my ear up to it...

only things I dislike about this kit so far are...

A - Pump is in res and takes up a lot of room
B - The RS Radiator isn't all that good...

For a push pull setup I should have lower idle temps too... 32 degrees Celcius is just too high... it stays there even with the window open... and its -9 degrees celcius outside... so...

and yes I checked the flow... its in the right order... in's and out's are in the right spots too...

edit and I reseated the block twice...


 If yours is a new install give it a week or so for all of the air bubbles to come out. If I open a window my temps go down in low 20's and it isn't near as cold in Memphis as it is in Chicago.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


No I can't hear the pump from where I sit... I can if I put my ear up to it...

only things I dislike about this kit so far are...

A - Pump is in res and takes up a lot of room
B - The RS Radiator isn't all that good...

For a push pull setup I should have lower idle temps too... 32 degrees Celcius is just too high... it stays there even with the window open... and its -9 degrees celcius outside... so...

and yes I checked the flow... its in the right order... in's and out's are in the right spots too...

edit and I reseated the block twice...


For two reasons idle temps mean jack chit.....

1. Intel states below 40c is not accurate temps and...

2. LOAD TEMPS ARE WHAT MATTERS.


----------



## thrasherht

Think of it this way, if your computer was idling at 55c, that would be bad, but on the other hand what if your idle was 55c and then when you loaded up the cpu to 100% it didn't change temp? That would be amazing, that shows how idle temps aren't really what matter.


----------



## jam3s

So at 1.48v load (1.47v in bios) 1.467v idle, I"m getting around 61-62c in both linX and IBT under load.

So add two EK 470 blocks into my loop and i'm looking at loading at about 70c if I'm lucky.

This will be one rad (RX360) until I can afford at RX240 later, down the line


----------



## Blameless

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


]
For a push pull setup I should have lower idle temps too... 32 degrees Celcius is just too high... it stays there even with the window open... and its -9 degrees celcius outside... so...

and yes I checked the flow... its in the right order... in's and out's are in the right spots too...

edit and I reseated the block twice...


Idle temps are meaningless, and often not reported correctly. What load temps are you getting?


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


they say cause the bottom rads heat is sucked into the top rad but for me this way is giving me a 3-6c drop in temps then having both rads as exhaust.


Hehe, glad it worked out Bal3.









Ive always worked with that setup in mind, getting as much air inside as possible


----------



## DullBoi

last time I help someone with there airflow setup. . . k!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

not enugh cool air in the pc i guess probly have to change it back in summer when room might be warmer.


----------



## jam3s

lol I love how my post got ignored


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


lol I love how my post got ignored










we figured you was making out with jonesy again


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


So at 1.48v load (1.47v in bios) 1.467v idle, I"m getting around 61-62c in both linX and IBT under load.

So add two EK 470 blocks into my loop and i'm looking at loading at about 70c if I'm lucky.

This will be one rad (RX360) until I can afford at RX240 later, down the line


/ignored


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


we figured you was making out with jonesy again










hey man he's a good kisser. He's quiet too. But I know when to turn it up a notch.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


/ignored


LOL thanks.


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


lol I love how my post got ignored










Jam3s, no you'd be looking at about 5C higher when gaming, remember the water reaches a point where it stays the same temp. I got two GPU in my little loop and if you look at my spreadsheet, it didn'y affect my folding temps much. Peace

Work time


----------



## Bal3Wolf

3 gpus really lol


----------



## Jonesey I7

HOLY CHIT!!! This ultra 50 from Mediacom is AMAZING. i just downloaded sp1 for windows 7 in less than 2 minutes.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol all i can get is 10mbit their was at&t uverse here but when i was gonna get it says not availible now lol.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Make it even sweeter, the Ultra 105 will be here this summer!!!!!!!!! I cannot wait to pay them $149 a month with the biggest smile on my face.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lmao 150 a month your insane you planing on pirating the internet in 1 day lol.


----------



## premonition08

i ran prime 95 for 1 hour at 26c ambient temps.


----------



## dembo1305

I'm just fine with my internet its 6Mbit.. plenty fast for me even when downloading. And i'm sharing it with the neighbors :O


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12145616*
> 3 gpus really lol


Oops, true true


----------



## Bal3Wolf

folding on cpu and running boinc/dnetc on gpu but gpu at stock i get these temps pretty insane it will drop so much when droping gpu to stock clocks.


----------



## AusPC

So what do you guys think of this? I am new to WC'ing and would happily listen to advice









Please critique :










Is using the UV Green Coolant mixed with Distilled water a good Idea or not?

Cheers - Jason


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Very bad idea dont use any premix it breaks down and gunks up your blocks and stuff just use Distilled water and some silver coil if you want colored tubing buy some.


----------



## Therionx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12147824*
> Very bad idea dont use any premix it breaks down and gunks up your blocks and stuff just use Distilled water and some silver coil if you want colored tubing buy some.


^
Couldn't agree more with this.

Stay away from any dyes or colored liquid at all costs. Nothing beats the thermal transfer poperties of water either. So all in all Distilled water + Kill Coil and or PT-Nuke = Win


----------



## Kahbrohn

Drop the coolant. Use the $9.50 to buy a more efficient cooling solution. Not worth buying something that is not as efficient in dissipating heat as good old distilled water which can be bought at about $1/gallon. Kill coil will be about $5 for 8" which will give you one large or two med sized coils to drop in your reservoir. You can find it cheaper elsewhere (i.e. jewelry supply shop - .999 silver strip). You still have $3.50 more or less that you can spend on something else. PT Nuke (if you want added protection) is about $3.25.

Good thing about the coils is that they will last forever as far as I know.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *premonition08;12145934*
> i ran prime 95 for 1 hour at 26c ambient temps.


Temps look good


----------



## Bastyn99

Pictures of my setup













Temps after 3 hours of Prime, ambient 19c


----------



## Boyboyd

Seriously considering the 240 kit for £129 with my wages for this month. Is it £70 better than the corsair H50 though?

I'd only be cooling my CPU.


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;12148708*
> Seriously considering the 240 kit for £129 with my wages for this month. Is it £70 better than the corsair H50 though?
> 
> I'd only be cooling my CPU.


I would say so. You, of course, will get better temperatures, but the main feature is expandability. I got the 240 kit, and I have had so much fun in the last couple months expanding and changing it.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amantonas;12148745*
> I would say so. You, of course, will get better temperatures, *but the main feature is expandability*. I got the 240 kit, and I have had so much fun in the last couple months expanding and changing it.


You raise a good point sir.

240 kit it is. All i need now is payday on the 28th. Thank god my motherboard has a hole behind the CPU socket otherwise i'd go nuts removing the motherboard every few days.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;12148687*


I must ask whats with the hackie sack on the PSU?


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dembo1305;12149539*
> I must ask whats with the hackie sack on the PSU?


It insists on being on my photos, I cant help it. But I just wuv it, so what can you do ?


----------



## Citra

What speed is a 1090t with a "mild" overclock going to run at and will it be better with a rs 240 or rs 360? Thanks


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra;12150315*
> What speed is a 1090t with a "mild" overclock going to run at and will it be better with a rs 240 or rs 360? Thanks


A mild overclock for a 1090t would probably be about 4ghz (from 3.2). Your going to be able to achieve this on any decent cooler, but you could probably get up to 4.3 or so on a rs240 kit.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;12149912*
> It insists on being on my photos, I cant help it. But I just wuv it, so what can you do ?


I thought you like to sleep with it.


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


I thought you like to sleep with it.


True. Sometimes when I wake up at nights and cant find it I panic, and when I do find it, hiding under my pillow, I cant fall asleep because Im all worked up, and then I have to go drink some milk and watch some TV and have a serious talk with it, not to scare me like that.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DullBoi*


Hehe, glad it worked out Bal3.









Ive always worked with that setup in mind, getting as much air inside as possible










wow sry guys I got sick last night not cool...

I'm happy to hear that idle temps are jack chit... I'm new to overclocking so... as this is only my second computer doing it with... not to mention I went from amd to intel... etc...

At stock settings I go from 32 idle to 50ish C but overclocked I hit 60 4.4-4.7 ish and can go up to 65 if im on the high end of that...


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


What speed is a 1090t with a "mild" overclock going to run at and will it be better with a rs 240 or rs 360? Thanks










my 1090t with rs240 kit folds 24/7 at 4.2ghz 1.5v and temps are between 30-35c depending on ambient... when summer comes around, it'll probably go up to 35-40c, which is still well below the "limit" of 55-60c

if you're only cooling cpu theres no need to spend extra for a 360 rad


----------



## ttaylor0024

Just hit 59C running intel burn max settings @ 4.2GHz with my NH-D14, looks like im getting the RASA soon! haha


----------



## HiLuckyB

Anyone that has ordered from jab-tech and shipped with fedex, Can you tell me if fedex needs a signature? I work midnights im always sleeping when fedex comes around







And im hoping they will just leave it, So I can have my kit tomorrow







Thanks


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


my 1090t with rs240 kit folds 24/7 at 4.2ghz 1.5v and temps are between 30-35c depending on ambient... when summer comes around, it'll probably go up to 35-40c, which is still well below the "limit" of 55-60c

if you're only cooling cpu theres no need to spend extra for a 360 rad


Those are load temps and you are using stock fans right with no p/p?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Anyone that has ordered from jab-tech and shipped with fedex, Can you tell me if fedex needs a signature? I work midnights im always sleeping when fedex comes around







And im hoping they will just leave it, So I can have my kit tomorrow







Thanks


They havet for me and i have had 2 orders from jab-tech and shipped fedex.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


They havet for me and i have had 2 orders from jab-tech and shipped fedex.


So they should leave it cool. I was hoping they wood. I need to get some sleep, Been working 13.5 hours the last 3 days. It hasn't left much time for me to sleep


----------



## koven

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


Those are load temps and you are using stock fans right with no p/p?


yes socket load temps from hwmonitor and using stock fans


----------



## Bal3Wolf

they left my package monday on my porch didnt even knock i only knew i had one cause i got a email saying it was it was deliverd.


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


yes socket load temps from hwmonitor and using stock fans


Thanks! Those are some awesome temps!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


they left my package monday on my porch didnt even knock i only knew i had one cause i got a email saying it was it was deliverd.


It was just outside for two days?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


they left my package monday on my porch didnt even knock i only knew i had one cause i got a email saying it was it was deliverd.


Thats fine with me


----------



## RonB94GT

I have been looking at getting the RS240 for a couple of weeks now. Every once in a will I read some comments about the pumps are bad? Is this a issue or just a couple of people getting a defective one?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


I have been looking at getting the RS240 for a couple of weeks now. Every once in a will I read some comments about the pumps are bad? Is this a issue or just a couple of people getting a defective one?


It's not that the pumps are bad, some just make more noise. I'm guessing it's not an easy thing to hear in a factory when they test them. Most are good, and the ones that are bad get new ones. XSPC has great customer service.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


I have been looking at getting the RS240 for a couple of weeks now. Every once in a will I read some comments about the pumps are bad? Is this a issue or just a couple of people getting a defective one?


Don't worry about it, we have only seen like one pump fail completely. The rest you are hearing about are just slightly noisier then normal, and they are replaced by XSPC no problem. Most of the time you even get to keep your old pump to play with or use in another computer.









I am going to be using my extra pump on a mod I am doing an an H50 setup.


----------



## wermad

could've been a bad batch of pumps, I bought one two months ago and never had any issues.


----------



## man00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12156071*
> It's not that the pumps are bad, some just make more noise. I'm guessing it's not an easy thing to hear in a factory when they test them. Most are good, and the ones that are bad get new ones. XSPC has great customer service.


I'm sure they would send out a new but you have to send the one in question first and they have to check it out. They didn't give me any time frame on how long
that would take. I just ended up getting another pump and take the loss.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *man00;12156310*
> I'm sure they would send out a new but you have to send the one in question first and they have to check it out. They didn't give me any time frame on how long
> that would take. I just ended up getting another pump and take the loss.


I just emailed them with a picture of the crack in the pump housing and within about 3 days i had a new one.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Just my luck...today I decided to take my CPU further. Got into windows and started priming right? Well I went down stairs to get a snack, came back up only to see my PC shut off. I thought it must've been bsod. So I go turn on my PC and the fans and lights turn on for less than 1 sec and then turns off. I unplugged the psu for 10 mins and repluged it back in and same thing. I thought my psu popped so I try the paper clip mod and my psu works and powers my fans perfectly. So now it can't be my psu. I tryed booting my PC again but this time smoke came out of the 8 pin CPU connector and I smelled burning. I quickly turned it off and now here I am with a motherboard that had smoke coming out and my water cooling parts come in tomorrow. This blows


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *man00;12156310*
> I'm sure they would send out a new but you have to send the one in question first and they have to check it out. They didn't give me any time frame on how long
> that would take. I just ended up getting another pump and take the loss.


I just sent them a video and they sent me a new one, and I still have my old one.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12156387*
> Just my luck...today I decided to take my CPU further. Got into windows and started priming right? Well I went down stairs to get a snack, came back up only to see my PC shut off. I thought it must've been bsod. So I go turn on my PC and the fans and lights turn on for less than 1 sec and then turns off. I unplugged the psu for 10 mins and repluged it back in and same thing. I thought my psu popped so I try the paper clip mod and my psu works and powers my fans perfectly. So now it can't be my psu. I tryed booting my PC again but this time smoke came out of the 8 pin CPU connector and I smelled burning. I quickly turned it off and now here I am with a motherboard that had smoke coming out and my water cooling parts come in tomorrow. This blows


unplug the 8 pin power and look to see if its burnt inside the socket plug,i have had that happen to a old p4 asus board and a cheap psu(apevia brand)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12156387*
> Just my luck...today I decided to take my CPU further. Got into windows and started priming right? Well I went down stairs to get a snack, came back up only to see my PC shut off. I thought it must've been bsod. So I go turn on my PC and the fans and lights turn on for less than 1 sec and then turns off. I unplugged the psu for 10 mins and repluged it back in and same thing. I thought my psu popped so I try the paper clip mod and my psu works and powers my fans perfectly. So now it can't be my psu. I tryed booting my PC again but this time smoke came out of the 8 pin CPU connector and I smelled burning. I quickly turned it off and now here I am with a motherboard that had smoke coming out and my water cooling parts come in tomorrow. This blows


since you have a corsair you might be able to convince them it is the PSU's fault. they replace hardware that is toasted.


----------



## KGIXXER7

on the back of my 800D, do you think it would make any difference if I put a black ice 120mm single rad there? it would go between the cpu and the gpu?


----------



## AMOCO

yes it could help,thats how my loop is,but mine is like this: > res/pump > cpu > 120mm rad. > mobo waterblock > 360mm rad. > res/pump.

this is the 1 120mm rad. i got:http://www.svc.com/rad-3110.html


----------



## KGIXXER7

I was thinking this cross flow one, I think it would work good for my tubing routing...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4060/ex-rad-81/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_120_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Blue.html?tl=g30c95s159

blue is how I am thinking of runnign the tubing ...


----------



## Logan801

^^^thats sexy


----------



## KGIXXER7

thanks logan


----------



## strap624

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;12156918*
> I was thinking this cross flow one, I think it would work good for my tubing routing...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4060/ex-rad-81/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_120_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Blue.html?tl=g30c95s159
> 
> blue is how I am thinking of runnign the tubing ...


WOW that is soo clean!
















I have got to get one of these RASA kits!! I'm already at 4.2ghz though with my d-14. I see no reason to go higher









edit: what fans are those?


----------



## KGIXXER7

thanks strap appreciate it









fans are gelid wing 12
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426018


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;12156918*
> I was thinking this cross flow one, I think it would work good for my tubing routing...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4060/ex-rad-81/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_120_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Blue.html?tl=g30c95s159
> 
> blue is how I am thinking of runnign the tubing ...


sry,went to the store.That will work fine
and btw nice setup.
i'm not going to post new pics of mine til monday after i install the mobo waterblock.


----------



## begjr2

Add me plz kind sir








http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/920781-black-white-mm-h2go-case-mod.html
here is my work log if u want to see the rest of the kit


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;12156918*
> I was thinking this cross flow one, I think it would work good for my tubing routing...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4060/ex-rad-81/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_120_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Blue.html?tl=g30c95s159
> 
> blue is how I am thinking of runnign the tubing ...


DUDE!!!! what fans are those, they are sexxy as hell.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *begjr2;12157999*
> Add me plz kind sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/920781-black-white-mm-h2go-case-mod.html
> here is my work log if u want to see the rest of the kit


AGH THE HORROR.

You should really get rid of that red dye, before it junks up your block.

get some red tubing instead.


----------



## KGIXXER7

thanks thrasher

fans are gelid wing 12
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426018


----------



## epidemic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;12157454*
> thanks strap appreciate it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fans are gelid wing 12
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426018


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12158020*
> DUDE!!!! what fans are those, they are sexxy as hell.


few posts up.









*Edit* KGIXXER7 is on the ball 1 post up ^


----------



## man00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12156392*
> I just sent them a video and they sent me a new one, and I still have my old one.


I didn't push the issue much, and I didn't want the hassle of waiting for them to decide after checking my old pump/res out. I just took care of it myself, the person i worked with at rasa didn't sound too happy. Great it worked out for you.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;12158054*
> thanks thrasher
> 
> fans are gelid wing 12
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426018


They don't look even remotely as blue in the newegg picture as they do in your picture?


----------



## begjr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12158036*
> AGH THE HORROR.
> 
> You should really get rid of that red dye, before it junks up your block.
> 
> get some red tubing instead.


yea i know i had to work with what i have right now wife is a little piss at me went alittle over budget


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *begjr2;12158107*
> yea i know i had to work with what i have right now wife is a little piss at me went alittle over budget


Ummm you can't go to the store and spend 2 dollars on distilled water?
never buy coolant, off the internet, it is completely overpriced.

the pure stuff is just distilled water.


----------



## begjr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12158120*
> Ummm you can't go to the store and spend 2 dollars on distilled water?
> never buy coolant, off the internet, it is completely overpriced.
> 
> the pure stuff is just distilled water.


but i would still need the silver coil right


----------



## thrasherht

or a biocide of some sort, but those are super cheap, and you can run for quite a while without one if you dont have light getting to your tubing.


----------



## KGIXXER7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epidemic;12158066*
> few posts up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* KGIXXER7 is on the ball 1 post up ^











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12158092*
> They don't look even remotely as blue in the newegg picture as they do in your picture?


I had a UV lamp on them...here they are normal


----------



## begjr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12158151*
> or a biocide of some sort, but those are super cheap, and you can run for quite a while without one if you dont have light getting to your tubing.


hmmmmm didnt know that i thought u had a few days max. 5 yea cause wife got a little pissed when she saw how much i spent and wont let me use my card or im dead cant have a pissed wife kind of like the goodies


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *begjr2;12158172*
> hmmmmm didnt know that i thought u had a few days max. 5 yea cause wife got a little pissed when she saw how much i spent and wont let me use my card or im dead cant have a pissed wife kind of like the goodies


how much did you spend? wait? did you buy coolant when you bought the kit?

You might be able to stop by a pet shop and pick up something. You want copper sulfate biocide. It should only be a few dollars.


----------



## begjr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12158197*
> how much did you spend? wait? did you buy coolant when you bought the kit?
> 
> You might be able to stop by a pet shop and pick up something. You want copper sulfate biocide. It should only be a few dollars.


actually my buddy had bought some on accident and gave me some he lives by this and since it was my 1st attempt @ w/c i believed him all and all i spent 2k
budget was 1.6


----------



## thrasherht

you spend 2k dollars? Im really hoping that isn't USD. You should really get distilled water, and tell your buddy to do the same. and if you need proof, just let us know, we can get you some horror pictures of messed up blocks.


----------



## begjr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12158259*
> you spend 2k dollars? Im really hoping that isn't USD. You should really get distilled water, and tell your buddy to do the same. and if you need proof, just let us know, we can get you some horror pictures of messed up blocks.


yea $2000 total for the whole system i sure enough will
thx didnt know that


----------



## Jonesey I7

IN BEFORE I hear "you're gonna blow it up" remarks, only ran long enough to get validation and superpi run. Back to sig speeds and volts. CHIT, just realized the 5 didn't get put in the voltage on the sticky. lol, Oh well, you get the point.


----------



## thrasherht

congratz on the pi run. NICE. what kinda temps did you get?

here is why you should always use distilled.
take a look at these
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/597440-reason-only-used-distlled-water.html


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12158344*
> congratz on the pi run. NICE. what kinda temps did you get?
> 
> here is why you should always use distilled.
> take a look at these
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/597440-reason-only-used-distlled-water.html


Temps were only 30-26-31-30, in other words idle lol. Super pi only took 6+ seconds, not long enough to heat up at all.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *begjr2;12158107*
> yea i know i had to work with what i have right now wife is a little piss at me went alittle over budget


hell my wifes always pissed at me,i buy something for my pc every month,hehe.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12158391*
> hell my wifes always pissed at me,i buy something for my pc every month,hehe.


glad i don't have a wife, or money to spend once a month on a computer.

the way i see it is this. I spend money on my computer, how is that any different the having a quad or dirt bike that i run every weekend and have to put money into?


----------



## begjr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12158344*
> congratz on the pi run. NICE. what kinda temps did you get?
> 
> here is why you should always use distilled.
> take a look at these
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/597440-reason-only-used-distlled-water.html


Thx for the info. Rep


----------



## The Sandman

I'm ready to order a RS360 in the morning but have a few questions to make sure I have everything ordered.

1st. Is it worth installing a nice drain tube to aid in H2O removal? Or are they ineffective?

2nd. Is there a way to monitor the pump rpm? (Stock RS360 Kit) If so and it's not in the kit, what would it take?

3rd. If the pump rpm is NOT monitored how does one know with confidence, if there is a system failure, how does one safely protect his system? (Before you fry something lol).


----------



## begjr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12159724*
> I'm ready to order a RS360 in the morning but have a few questions to make sure I have everything ordered.
> 
> 1st. Is it worth installing a nice drain tube to aid in H2O removal? Or are they ineffective?
> 
> 2nd. Is there a way to monitor the pump rpm? (Stock RS360 Kit) If so and it's not in the kit, what would it take?
> 
> 3rd. If the pump rpm is NOT monitored how does one know with confidence, if there is a system failure, how does one safely protect his system? (Before you fry something lol).


1 yes it is unless u want to take ur whole loop out just to drain.
2 u can use a flow indicator but that's really just to see the flowwhich more a less is ur rpms lol


----------



## Live_free

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12159724*
> I'm ready to order a RS360 in the morning but have a few questions to make sure I have everything ordered.
> 
> 1st. Is it worth installing a nice drain tube to aid in H2O removal? Or are they ineffective?
> 
> 2nd. Is there a way to monitor the pump rpm? (Stock RS360 Kit) If so and it's not in the kit, what would it take?
> 
> 3rd. If the pump rpm is NOT monitored how does one know with confidence, if there is a system failure, how does one safely protect his system? (Before you fry something lol).


1) Yes, very much so.

2) No Clue

3) Not sure but if you install Core Temp you can set CPU overheating protection and if you have a GPU you can do that same in MSI Afterburner or what ever you use really. Set them to the max temps you feel safe it and to turn off your computer if they reach these temps. Problem solved.









BTW Two questions for everyone!

How often do I have to clean my entire loop? And that entails removing everything cleaning and putting back together correct?

Also before I install anything when I first get it what all do I need to clean? Just the pump/res and rad?


----------



## begjr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12159840*
> 1) Yes, very much so.
> 
> 2) No Clue
> 
> 3) Not sure but if you install Core Temp you can set CPU overheating protection and if you have a GPU you can do that same in MSI Afterburner or what ever you use really. Set them to the max temps you feel safe it and to turn off your computer if they reach these temps. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW Two questions for everyone!
> 
> How often do I have to clean my entire loop? And that entails removing everything cleaning and putting back together correct? U
> 
> Also before I install anything when I first get it what all do I need to clean? Just the pump/res and rad?


U need to flush everything and I do mean everything with distilled water a few times or at least until the water looks clear of any residuè and so forth that might have been left in some of the parts.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Would the pump with this kit be enough to push though a RS240 and a 120 on a CPU only loop? I know its not really practical, but its a Case mod I wanna try before I go GPU/H20


----------



## Yukss

waiting fot my XSPC Rasa 750 RS 360 Kit to come to change my current watercooling setup...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Answers inside quote...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


I'm ready to order a RS360 in the morning but have a few questions to make sure I have everything ordered.

1st. Is it worth installing a nice drain tube to aid in H2O removal? Or are they ineffective?

*Yes... A good idea and practical! Time saver.*

2nd. Is there a way to monitor the pump rpm? (Stock RS360 Kit) If so and it's not in the kit, what would it take?

*Nope... unfortunately.*

3rd. If the pump rpm is NOT monitored how does one know with confidence, if there is a system failure, how does one safely protect his system? (Before you fry something lol).

*The ASUS board has a utility called "ProbeII". It monitors temps, volts and fans. You can set up thresh holds on each item. If the thresh hold is reached, an alarm will sound and a pop-up will come up on your screen. The pop-up may not always show but the alarm will always be heard. Also, the AMD CPU has a thermal protection circuit. It will shut itself down at a specific temp (72-74*C I believe it is). This could all be a hint as to a problem in circulation. I also believe you can buy an in-line "flow meter".
*


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


Would the pump with this kit be enough to push though a RS240 and a 120 on a CPU only loop?


yes i'm using the same res./pump and i have a 360 and a 120mm rad. + cpu and mobo block.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGIXXER7;12156918*
> I was thinking this cross flow one, I think it would work good for my tubing routing...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4060/ex-rad-81/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_120_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Blue.html?tl=g30c95s159
> 
> blue is how I am thinking of runnign the tubing ...


OH LAWD! That's so clean. Excellent job. I'm so lazy and i have a non-modular PSU so mine is going to look nothing like that.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12160367*
> Answers inside quote...


Thanks for the info Kahbrohn/everyone!


----------



## rmp459

Lian Li PC-9F









Ignore my lack of a real camera and the huge gaping hole where my other 460 was... case has sorta been a work in progress and waiting on a RMA card.

I felt for my first venture into WC that it came out well... flushed everything and the loop is very clear... can barely tell its on.

Went with primochill 7/16 ID tubing instead of the stock stuff... Rigged up my own mounting and hid the res/pump behind my existing switch panels and fan controllers by just trimming the outside of the acrylic with a dremel. (still allows me to attach front fascias if i ever want to put it in the front)


----------



## elikim

hey guys I have the rasa360 kit. Do you think the pump in the kit can handle a gpu block and another 360 rad?


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elikim*


hey guys I have the rasa360 kit. Do you think the pump in the kit can handle a gpu block and another 360 rad?


Two 360 rads for a CPU and GPU only?
That's a bit much, the RX360 could handle both of those.

But to answer your question, yes, it could handle it. I'd look into getting another pump in the future.

EDIT: The 2600K is pretty cool, even with a GPU the loop would be pretty cool. One 360 would definitely do.


----------



## begjr2

Does anyone know of a bioside i Can get for my loop at a petstore wife doesn't care if spend a little more money lol. Really don't want to wait for for frozencpu to deliver it or anyone else


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *begjr2*


Does anyone know of a bioside i Can get for my loop at a petstore wife doesn't care if spend a little more money lol. Really don't want to wait for for frozencpu to deliver it or anyone else


They shouldn't be all that expensive. Just ask for the most popular concoction they have. OPTION: Strip of .999 silver. 8"-12" in length made into a coil (use a thick pen for the coiling). Jewelry supply shops or maybe even hobby shops should have them. Jewelry repair shops may have them also.


----------



## dembo1305

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


They shouldn't be all that expensive. Just ask for the most popular concoction they have. OPTION: Strip of .999 silver. 8"-12" in length made into a coil (use a thick pen for the coiling). Jewelry supply shops or maybe even hobby shops should have them. Jewelry repair shops may have them also.


This is what I did!


----------



## mbudden

Wow. My neglect of this thread...
I will deff need to go through and see who needs to be added etc etc. 
Just been a little busy, every time I come on here. I skim threads. Occasionally post and hop off.

If anyone needs to be added. Just post again and I'll get to you







Promise.


----------



## begjr2

Add me


----------



## elikim

I'm definitly not happy with how my rasa kit is doing. At 4.7ghz my highest core temp at idle is 36 and gets to high 40's when I put it under load. My phenom II was at high 20's. And also I know that it is overkill but it is also bling bling for my new build.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elikim*


I'm definitly not happy with how my rasa kit is doing. At 4.7ghz my highest core temp at idle is 36 and gets to high 40's when I put it under load. My phenom II was at high 20's. And also I know that it is overkill but it is also bling bling for my new build.


You cannot possibly compare phenom temps to i5 temps. Phenom's max temp was 61c, i5's max temp is 98c!!! Get real.


----------



## elikim

Jonesey17 that is completely true. However, I was just stating that I do want my temps to drop a bit because I know that in the summer the temps will only get higher. Here in new jersey, the coldest temps and the highest temps have like a 90 degree differential.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elikim*


Jonesey17 that is completely true. However, I was just stating that I do want my temps to drop a bit because I know that in the summer the temps will only get higher. Here in new jersey, the coldest temps and the highest temps have like a 90 degree differential.










I hear that, I live in Florida and we're about the same, only our lowest temps are like your spring and fall temps there lol.

I'd try a couple remounts with the proper t.i.m. amount to see if I could improve temps some. I've also lapped my rasa cpu block, and that helped tremendously as it came very convex.


----------



## Zaxbys

I am bout to buy a 240 kit for my new rig and I need to know what should I use to prevent algae and bacteria from corrupting my loop?

I do not see PT Nuke anywhere and I do not know what a silver coil looks like


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*


I am bout to buy a 240 kit for my new rig and I need to know what should I use to prevent algae and bacteria from corrupting my loop?

I do not see PT Nuke anywhere and I do not know what a silver coil looks like


Where are you ordering from, get the rx240 from Jab-tech, and they sell kill coils for cheap.


----------



## elikim

A silver coil is literally just a coil of silver. http://jab-tech.com/Antimicrobial-Si...p-pr-4530.html is their link


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ok...

Setup: CPU > RES/Pump > Rad > CPU
Thermal compound: AS5 (not fully broken in yet)

Am using crappy fans on my rad until the 3 x Yate Looks 120x25 (high) arrive tomorrow (hopefully) with a 25mm shroud (gutted fans). Pulling air into the rad, rad externally mounted & facing window.

Ambient temp: 26.6*C (80*F)

Is a CPU spike of 60*C during 10 successful IBT cycles to be expected? Rad/reservoir are fairly warm. I am expecting an additional 2-3*C improvement once I get the fans and the thermal compound breaks in.


----------



## Zaxbys

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Where are you ordering from, get the rx240 from Jab-tech, and they sell kill coils for cheap.


Do I need an 8 or 12" for my loop?

How do those mount in the loop?

How long do I need to let the AS5 set up on the CPU before I mount the block?


----------



## Kahbrohn

See comments below in bold/blue...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*


Do I need an 8 or 12" for my loop?

*I personally got an 8" strip, cut it in two (so they are easier to remove when needed), coiled them and dropped them into the reservoir. Others install them inside the tubing itself but I am not sure how to do this properly. Reservoir to me would be just as efficient and easier to do.*

How do those mount in the loop?

*(see above)*

How long do I need to let the AS5 set up on the CPU before I mount the block?

*According to the manufacturers website, 200 hours worth of "cycling" time (off-on-run-off)*


----------



## elikim

i just threw my coil into the res


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elikim*


i just threw my coil into the res


Ok... now add the goldfish and you will be golden.

That was actually my daughters idea... she said it would look cool to have goldfish or betas swimming in there...


----------



## Citra

Should I get a GTX 465 Twin Frozr GE for SLI or a XSPC Rasa rs240 kit?

And what do you use to cut the tubing and how do you drain the loop?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


Should I get a GTX 465 Twin Frozr GE for SLI or a XSPC Rasa rs240 kit?

And what do you use to cut the tubing and how do you drain the loop?


For the price of that GTX 465 you could get the RX360 kit and still have money left over!

Tough question. You plan on water blocking those cards in the future? You would be adding additional heat into the case by adding that second card all though I would not say it would prevent you from doing your thing though. Are you OC'ed at present? If so, the added heat "may" affect your OC. Many many factors to consider. Me? I'd water cool the whole thing up first and then expand later on.

I use my wifes plain old scissors to cut the tubing. A Paper guillotine would give you a perfect clean cut also.

To drain? Add a drain valve. Otherwise you would have a heck of a time draining without getting anything wet. I just did the draining with no valve and it took me about 45 mins. time preparing and draining while being careful not to get anything wet.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


I'm ready to order a RS360 in the morning but have a few questions to make sure I have everything ordered.

1st. Is it worth installing a nice drain tube to aid in H2O removal? Or are they ineffective?

2nd. Is there a way to monitor the pump rpm? (Stock RS360 Kit) If so and it's not in the kit, what would it take?

3rd. If the pump rpm is NOT monitored how does one know with confidence, if there is a system failure, how does one safely protect his system? (Before you fry something lol).


another way to do it is use a program like coretemp and have it shut down your computer incase of overheating, and just set it to something low.

My max load temp is only 43c, so i have mine to shut down at 50c so by the time it catches it, and shuts it down, my cpu won't be too hot.


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


For the price of that GTX 465 you could get the RX360 kit and still have money left over!

Tough question. You plan on water blocking those cards in the future? You would be adding additional heat into the case by adding that second card all though I would not say it would prevent you from doing your thing though. Are you OC'ed at present? If so, the added heat "may" affect your OC. Many many factors to consider. Me? I'd water cool the whole thing up first and then expand later on.

I use my wifes plain old scissors to cut the tubing. A Paper guillotine would give you a perfect clean cut also.

To drain? Add a drain valve. Otherwise you would have a heck of a time draining without getting anything wet. I just did the draining with no valve and it took me about 45 mins. time preparing and draining while being careful not to get anything wet.


Probaly not going to water cool my graphic cards. Too much money.







Plus they aren't oc'ed now. How much are drain valves normally? By the way, the Twin Frozr GE is on sale for $200 Cad







Thanks! Rep+


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


Probaly not going to water cool my graphic cards. Too much money.







Plus they aren't oc'ed now. How much are drain valves normally? By the way, the Twin Frozr GE is on sale for $200 Cad







Thanks! Rep+


Nice... I saw somewhere it was like $289 so sounds like a good deal. Still be about the price of a good RX360 but if you are only going to cool the CPU, I would say that the RX240 would be more than enough for the job then. For US$20 more you could go RS360 which is a bit more cooling and allows for some expansion in the furure.

I don't know... How badly you want/need a second GPU? My GTX460 is nicely OC'ed and I don't feel that for my level of use I need anything more than that. I have high ambient temps in summer so I went with WC'ing. I figure that is an investment that will make my 6-core last longer.

EDIT: Sorry... drain ports run at different prices depending on brand and composition. I have seen solution at the local hardware shop that costs like US$2 for plastic solutions all the way up to US$15 on FrozenCPU for some good quality drain valve solutions.


----------



## epidemic

My RS240 kit is here and will be installed this weekend when I have time!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *epidemic*


My RS240 kit is here and will be installed this weekend when I have time!


Gratz!

That black tubing??? If so... pix will be a must!


----------



## epidemic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Gratz!

That black tubing??? If so... pix will be a must!


PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing - 7/16in. X 5/8od.

http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pr...D-pr-4423.html


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12160175*
> Would the pump with this kit be enough to push though a RS240 and a 120 on a CPU only loop? I know its not really practical, but its a Case mod I wanna try before I go GPU/H20


Yes, I have a RS240, RX120, Rasa block, and EK block for my 5870. I wouldn't push it much past that though.


----------



## [Adz]

That's almost identical to the loop I'll be using, except I've got a GTX470 instead.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12164633*
> Nice... I saw somewhere it was like $289 so sounds like a good deal. Still be about the price of a good RX360 but if you are only going to cool the CPU, I would say that the RX240 would be more than enough for the job then. For US$20 more you could go RS360 which is a bit more cooling and allows for some expansion in the furure.
> 
> I don't know... How badly you want/need a second GPU? My GTX460 is nicely OC'ed and I don't feel that for my level of use I need anything more than that. I have high ambient temps in summer so I went with WC'ing. I figure that is an investment that will make my 6-core last longer.
> 
> EDIT: Sorry... drain ports run at different prices depending on brand and composition. I have seen solution at the local hardware shop that costs like US$2 for plastic solutions all the way up to US$15 on FrozenCPU for some good quality drain valve solutions.


Didn't even oc my gpu yet and i get 91 fps all maxed out in blackops. Only problem is that if I get a rs 360 I need to mod the top of my case. I will probaly get a drain port though if i go with water cooling. Thanks!


----------



## Brutuz

You can add me as of next week, I just ordered a Rasa 750 RS240.


----------



## thrasherht

*is bored*


----------



## Jonesey I7

Update, new oc....

5102mhz 1.45v


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12169742*
> Update, new oc....
> 
> 5102mhz 1.45v
> 
> ]


*waits for it to start melting*


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


*waits for it to start melting*


He already stated in a previous post that it isnt 24/7...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024*


He already stated in a previous post that it isnt 24/7...


I see nothing about that not being 24/7. I remember seeing him say that 5.4ghz wasn't 24/7.


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


I see nothing about that not being 24/7. I remember seeing him say that 5.4ghz wasn't 24/7.


I stand corrected.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


*waits for it to start melting*


Hold your breath until it does lol.









Oh this is very much 24/7. With max volts around 1.55 for these chips, 1.45v isn't going to melt a damn thing. ESPECIALLY with this rx360 whippin it's butt. Max temp only 67c on hottest core, and max temps are somewhere aroung 98c. Perfectly fine for 24/7.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12170026*
> *waits for it to start melting*


His temps and volts are perfectly fine, it won't melt.


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12170088*
> Hold your breath until it does lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh this is very much 24/7. With max volts around 1.55 for these chips, 1.45v isn't going to melt a damn thing. ESPECIALLY with this rx360 whippin it's butt. Max temp only 67c on hottest core, and max temps are somewhere aroung 98c. Perfectly fine for 24/7.


I'm pretty sure I read that max was 1.35-1.4V before it over-volted and failed. Temps arn't everything...

But you probably know more about it than I do, I haven't done much research on the SB lineup.


----------



## thrasherht

It was a sarcastic comment because i know he hates when people complain about SB chips taking too much voltage.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024*


I'm pretty sure I read that max was 1.35-1.4V before it over-volted and failed. Temps arn't everything...


Pretty sure you should re-read your intel white sheets, and not believe what some xxx website says in their forum. Maximum vid is 1.52v, but that isn't max volts. I would say 1.55v is CLOSER to the true max, but in any event, I'm no where near that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


It was a sarcastic comment because i know he hates when people complain about SB chips taking too much voltage.


Why you little....


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12170125*
> It was a sarcastic comment because i know he hates when people complain about SB chips taking too much voltage.


Sick that kitty on him Jonesey


----------



## thrasherht




----------



## Jonesey I7

Another update...... LOVE THIS NEW INTERNETZ!!!!


----------



## alex4069

which one of these would be best so i could add a block for my gtx 470 and that would fit into antec 300.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alex4069*


which one of these would be best so i could add a block for my gtx 470 and that would fit into antec 300.


I'd go rx360 and mount externally.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Another update...... LOVE THIS NEW INTERNETZ!!!!




OK now I hate you

][/URL]


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12170294*
> OK now I hate you
> 
> [snipped}


but i love you bro??


----------



## PulkPull

Wow, 160 pages... my rx360 kit has... um... "expanded" since I last posted a pic of my build in this thread. Seeing some good temps too. Right now at 4.2ghz, I am getting 56c average core temp on a i7 950 at full load in LinX.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


Wow, 160 pages... my rx360 kit has... um... "expanded" since I last posted a pic of my build in this thread. Seeing some good temps too. Right now at 4.2ghz, I am getting 56c average core temp at full load in LinX.











THAT......

IS FUGGIN.........

B-E-A-UTIFUL!!!!!

Nuff said.







GREAT JOB!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


It was a sarcastic comment because i know he hates when people complain about SB chips taking too much voltage.


Lol im waiting on fireworks over OCN thats when the SB start poping like firecrackers


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


THAT......

IS FUGGIN.........

B-E-A-UTIFUL!!!!!

Nuff said.







GREAT JOB!!



Thanks, I'll post up some more detailed pics once my MDPC sleeving job is done. Just need to find some time...


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


Thanks, I'll post up some more detailed pics once my MDPC sleeving job is done. Just need to find some time...


It's going to be quite hard to make that girl look any more fine. WOW


----------



## thrasherht

I win.

http://www.speedtest.net/result/1130974695.png

actually if i was on campus in the dorms, i would win. those rooms get 45meg up and 45 down.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


It's going to be quite hard to make that girl look any more fine. WOW


Well, I purposely am not taking pics that detail my motherboard as the rainbow of color coming from my 24atx PSU plug and various other wires really throw the build off.







However, I have modded the PSU case to be all black since I took that pic.


----------



## alex4069

when i order the rs360 what fluids and treatments should i buy to go with it and do i need to buy anything else to install it.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alex4069*


when i order the rs360 what fluids and treatments should i buy to go with it and do i need to buy anything else to install it.


One of these is all you will need. Just drop it into the res. As for fluid, just get distilled water from your local grocery store.


----------



## alex4069

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PulkPull;12170462*
> One of these is all you will need. Just drop it into the res. As for fluid, just get distilled water from your local grocery store.


Thank you. I think i am ready to go a little bit farther than my h50.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex4069;12170502*
> Thank you. I think i am ready to go a little bit farther than my h50.


You won't look back!


----------



## GoodInk

XSPC better keep making these kits for a long time, I never want to go back to air.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol i have the feeling they are making a killing off these as much as they sell places cant keep them in it seems.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12170558*
> lol i have the feeling they are making a killing off these as much as they sell places cant keep them in it seems.


With spokesmen and salesmen like us, how could they. I tell every soul I come in contact with to buy buy buy rasa kits of all shapes and sizes.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Add me to the club







22c idle, 51c cpu, And 54c on the hottest core! 10c Drop from my H50.
*Out with the old*
















*In with the new*


----------



## ttaylor0024

Crap. Guys, im stick at the "Process Order" button. Talk me into pressing it... haha


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024*


crap. Guys, im stick at the "process order" button. Talk me into pressing it... Haha



do iiitttt!!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12170774*
> Crap. Guys, im stick at the "Process Order" button. Talk me into pressing it... haha


Lol what kit are you looking at i cant say do it cause you already have a great heatsink im not sure how much of a drop in temps you will see.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12170774*
> Crap. Guys, im stick at the "Process Order" button. Talk me into pressing it... haha


Get your coin sack out of your old lady's purse and HIT THAT BUTTON BOY!! *PUN INTENDED*


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12170812*
> Lol what kit are you looking at i cant say do it cause you already have a great heatsink im not sure how much of a drop in temps you will see.


The 240 kit. I hit 60C+ yesterday running intel burn @ 4.2GHz on my 1090t. I am going to sell my NH-D14...

+ I would probably be able to squeeze out some extra MHz this way...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

if your getting the rx240 it might do better im not sure if the rs240 will do better then a nh-d14.


----------



## thrasherht

go for the RS360.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


go for the RS360.


I agree a rs360 or rx240 otherwise i thk he might have same temps as his dh14.


----------



## 113802

What is the tubing size that comes with the XSPC Rasa 750 kit? I want to water cool a rig thats in an Antec P183 but the rubber grommets are 3/8â€ and 1/2â€œ ID tubing I believe. I can easily switch the tubing to 3/8â€ and 1/2â€œ ID tubing correct if I wanted to?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*


What is the tubing size that comes with the XSPC Rasa 750 kit? I want to water cool a rig thats in an Antec P183 but the rubber grommets are 3/8â€ and 1/2â€œ ID tubing I believe. I can easily switch the tubing to 3/8â€ and 1/2â€œ ID tubing correct if I wanted to?


7/16" clear tubing,yes


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I agree a rs360 or rx240 otherwise i thk he might have same temps as his dh14.



I disagree some what, the RS240 will do better just because he is pushing the CPU hard, that is where WC'ing really shines, but the RX240 will do better. I would get the RX my self if you can fit it in your case, I'm not familiar with the Hurrican 2000, its not much more and you will be happier because it will cool more. But on the other hand, I haven't OC'ed an AMD since my Athlon 64, and the Phenom's run so cool you may not get that extra head room like the Intel guys do from WC'ing.


----------



## 113802

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


7/16" clear tubing,yes


I was reading around and people say 7/16 performance isn't bad compared to 1/2 and it bends a lot easier than 1/2, Should I stick to the 7/16 that comes with the kit? Will be cooling a Core i7 950


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*


I was reading around and people say 7/16 performance isn't bad compared to 1/2 and it bends a lot easier than 1/2, Should I stick to the 7/16 that comes with the kit? Will be cooling a Core i7 950


i would stay with 7/16" tubing,thats what i'm using:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82...?tl=g30c99s809


----------



## Jonesey I7

I love the look of the 1/2' id moar!! With proper clamps, 1/2' is supreme.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

7/16 5/8 is great tubing cause it fits tight on 1/2inch barbs most people end up ordering soem colorerd tubing to replace whats in the kit i like primochill myself. Below is my current loop with my white 7/16 5/8 primochill tubing.


----------



## 113802

I think I may also go with the RX240 kit instead of the RS240 because I'm going to mount the rad externally. Would the performance of the RX240 be worth the $30 increase over the RS240?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12171200*
> 7/16 5/8 is great tubing cause it fits tight on 1/2inch barbs most people end up ordering soem colorerd tubing to replace whats in the kit i like primochill myself. Below is my current loop with my white 7/16 5/8 primochill tubing.


That does look very tight is there a chance that tubing could rip and leak? Are the barbs that come with the kit 1/2? Do you think I can run a GTX 470 and The Core i7 950 on the same loop with a 240 rad?


----------



## spRICE

What kind of fans ship with these kits? Are they rebranded Yate Loons or something else? If they're something else are they better/worse?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*


I think I may also go with the RX240 kit instead of the RS240 because I'm going to mount the rad externally. Would the performance of the RX240 be worth the $30 increase over the RS240?

That does look very tight is there a chance that tubing could rip and leak? Are the barbs that come with the kit 1/2? Do you think I can run a GTX 470 and The Core i7 950 on the same loop with a 240 rad?


You could with good fans. Temps on the CPU might not be as low as you would like, but should still be in the good. The GPU would have a good drop in temps. The big plus would be the drop in noise levels.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


What kind of fans ship with these kits? Are they rebranded Yate Loons or something else? If they're something else are they better/worse?


I have never owned any Yates but these are the fans in the kit.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*


I think I may also go with the RX240 kit instead of the RS240 because I'm going to mount the rad externally. Would the performance of the RX240 be worth the $30 increase over the RS240?

That does look very tight is there a chance that tubing could rip and leak? Are the barbs that come with the kit 1/2? Do you think I can run a GTX 470 and The Core i7 950 on the same loop with a 240 rad?


You might be able to run a 470 and i7 on a rx240 and no the primochill tubing is very good it does not kink on tight turns.


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


I have never owned any Yates but these are the fans in the kit.











Are they loud? And is it better to push or pull through a rad?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


What kind of fans ship with these kits? Are they rebranded Yate Loons or something else? If they're something else are they better/worse?


I found this info on the fans they look ok not super great but not that bad.

Quote:



Xinruilian 120 fan with thermal speed control, alarm output, speed sensor and auto restart functions. Fitted with a three pin plug suitable for motherboard headers. We have found these fans to be exceedingly quiet in comparison to other fans. At seven volts Xinruilian fans would match similarly modified seven volt Tricod fan sound levels. 
Specifications;
DC12V
RPM 1700
CFM 71.75
Sound 28db-32db


----------



## replin

I just installed a few days ago the xspc gtx 570 gpu block on the card and i forgot to place 1 of the smallest thermal pads on one part of the card. Main reason why was cause it wasn't in the package, it was in the second package. Will this kill my card or affect performance in anyway? What are the repercussions?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you need to fix that asap probly ram or vrm cooling and if you game long enugh might cause the vrm to blow.


----------



## man00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I found this info on the fans they look ok not super great but not that bad.


Just looking at Specifications they hold up pretty good to the AP-15 Gentle Typhoons


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


I just installed a few days ago the xspc gtx 570 gpu block on the card and i forgot to place 1 of the smallest thermal pads on one part of the card. Main reason why was cause it wasn't in the package, it was in the second package. Will this kill my card or affect performance in anyway? What are the repercussions?


well i would go ahead and put that thermal pad on,it's provided to you to use on the waterblock.


----------



## thrasherht

well with the stock fans on my RS360 i get 43c max load with the rad mounted in the top of my phantom. I can barely hear them. I mean they aren't silent, but they aren't loud either, if you have any type of noise in your room, such as music or a heatset you will not hear them at all.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Damn!! So my Ek block came in today and the first thing I did was taking apart my 580. The 2 screws near the dvi port are a real pain in the ass! One of them stripped and now the plate wont come off. God what a terrible week for me. First my mobo fry's then this sigh* lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol yea iv seen others have those issues dang companis put lock tight on some screws. My first asus 5870 i rounded a screw off and had to use pliers to get it out waset easy.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *man00*


Just looking at Specifications they hold up pretty good to the AP-15 Gentle Typhoons


I have GT-15's and no they don't. They don't move as much air and are not even close to the same sound level.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


I just installed a few days ago the xspc gtx 570 gpu block on the card and i forgot to place 1 of the smallest thermal pads on one part of the card. Main reason why was cause it wasn't in the package, it was in the second package. Will this kill my card or affect performance in anyway? What are the repercussions?


 Open GPU-Z sensors tab and run Furmark etreme burning benchmark(at stock clocks) to see how hot your VRM's get.

I should have taken my 5970 apart and sandwiched an extra thermal pad on the set of three VRM's. The set of five VRM's only gets in the 50'sC with Furmark with heavy overclock, but the set of three goes in the 70's. The 5970's are notorious for hot VRM's in Furmark and a good bit of fiddling with thermal pads is necessary to get temps right. I left a VRM thermal pad off one set of VRM's with aftermarket Xcellero Xtreme cooler and it was only a temp issue when overclocked.

Can't say about the Nvidia 580's but if you are going to be doing any overclocking I would definitely plan on draining the loop and getting that pad on there. My VRM's stay in the 30's at stock clocks.


----------



## alawadhi3000

Anybody knows how much the package weights for the RS240? I want to import one from the US and would like to know how much shipping would cost...


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000*


Anybody knows how much the package weights for the RS240? I want to import one from the US and would like to know how much shipping would cost...


well my XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU kit weight was 9.5lbs.


----------



## Live_free

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


Damn!! So my Ek block came in today and the first thing I did was taking apart my 580. The 2 screws near the dvi port are a real pain in the ass! One of them stripped and now the plate wont come off. God what a terrible week for me. First my mobo fry's then this sigh* lol


That's why you have to use the exact size and be gentle but hard enough to get it directly in and locked into the screw hole. Home Depot sales these mini torx and philips/flat head sets for like 5 bucks made by husky. I recommend you pick both up.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12175001*
> That's why you have to use the exact size and be gentle but hard enough to get it directly in and locked into the screw hole. Home Depot sales these mini torx and philips/flat head sets for like 5 bucks made by husky. I recommend you pick both up.


its already stripped no luck now. Hes gunna have to drill bit it out if its totally stripped.


----------



## computer/noob

hey i am looking to get the RX360 kit and i want to get green LED fans for it so would these Yate Loon (1.1mmH2O) or Bitfenix (1.64mmH2O) fans be ok?


----------



## Cee

hey,
1 question, is the pump in the rs240 kit enough if i add a gtx 480 and another 120 rad?


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cee;12179887*
> hey,
> 1 question, is the pump in the rs240 kit enough if i add a gtx 480 and another 120 rad?


yes.


----------



## kingofyo1

redid the loop the other day, took out the x20 pump combo, put in a mcp350 and bitspower water tank ^)^



















my backside here:









edit: oh yeah, forgot to mention, added in a dangerden drainport to the top and it fit PERFECTLY!!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *computer/noob*


hey i am looking to get the RX360 kit and i want to get green LED fans for it so would these Yate Loon (1.1mmH2O)  or Bitfenix (1.64mmH2O) fans be ok?


I dont like either of those cause really low cfm these look decent looks to have better static presure then the 2 you picked.

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...at=1535&page=1

Quote:



Cooler Master 120mm Case Fan Fan Type: Case Fan

Fan Size: 120mm

LED: Blue

Bearing Type: Long Life Sleeve

Air Flow: 69CFM at 2000RPM

Noise Level: 19 dBA

Static Pressure: 3.04 mm/H20

Voltage: 12 VDC

Power Consumption: 4.2 W

Connector(s): 3-Pin

Life Hours: 50,000 hours


----------



## computer/noob

thanks bal3wolf for finding that info, but something else people have said is that the XSPC rads work better with low speed fans? isnt 2000RPM a little high or will it still give good results?


----------



## kingofyo1

xspc's rx kits work better with low speed fans. the RS kits work better with normal fans/high speeders


----------



## computer/noob

so would the yate loons or bitfenix ones be better as they have a lower CFM but a not to bad pressure?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well they dont work better with low speed fans they work fine with low or high the faster the fan more heat the rx series rads can handle. Id go with the cooler master better cfm and static presure and still low db from the specs i found on them.


----------



## computer/noob

thanks guys


----------



## logan666

hey guys will my rx360 kit b ok @ cooling my i5 and sli 460s???


----------



## jam3s

I'm with logan on this one. Will a RX360 suffice with 2 Fermi's and a CPU?


----------



## kingofyo1

itll be fine, you may want to think about getting an upgraded pump and res later on, because the x20 will have a low flow after the gpu block is added


----------



## logan666

ah ok im looking at gettin the laing ddc 3.2 with this top/res EK-DDC X-RES 100 Acetal would this be better??


----------



## kingofyo1

it will up your flow a good bit, and provide for much needed expansion area


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


Open GPU-Z sensors tab and run Furmark etreme burning benchmark(at stock clocks) to see how hot your VRM's get.

I should have taken my 5970 apart and sandwiched an extra thermal pad on the set of three VRM's. The set of five VRM's only gets in the 50'sC with Furmark with heavy overclock, but the set of three goes in the 70's. The 5970's are notorious for hot VRM's in Furmark and a good bit of fiddling with thermal pads is necessary to get temps right. I left a VRM thermal pad off one set of VRM's with aftermarket Xcellero Xtreme cooler and it was only a temp issue when overclocked.

Can't say about the Nvidia 580's but if you are going to be doing any overclocking I would definitely plan on draining the loop and getting that pad on there. My VRM's stay in the 30's at stock clocks.


I fixed it and I just received my Swiftech MCP655 with XSPC dual 5.25" UV blue resevoir.


----------



## replin

I have the xspc tubes connected already and also some Primochill Primoflex pro tubing in certain areas. I ran out of slack with the xpsc cause of my additional blocks. So Is that ok or will that cause problems? Should I just replace everything with the primoflex or is it ok to run both?

Also second thing, I'm thinking of sending the pump/res of the xspc in for fix and just adding it to my system for a second res and second pump. Will that improve temps? The main reason why I'm doing it is just in case one of the pumps fail I'll have the other as backup.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


I have the xspc tubes connected already and also some Primochill Primoflex pro tubing in certain areas. I ran out of slack with the xpsc cause of my additional blocks. So Is that ok or will that cause problems? Should I just replace everything with the primoflex or is it ok to run both?

Also second thing, I'm thinking of sending the pump/res of the xspc in for fix and just adding it to my system for a second res and second pump. Will that improve temps? The main reason why I'm doing it is just in case one of the pumps fail I'll have the other as backup.


 It's okay to use different tubing although I would want mine all the same and I like the look of the Primochill better than the XSPC stock tubing.

Are you planning on taking the pump out of the acrylic res and putting it in your new dual bay res along side the 655 or using two separate pump/reservoirs?


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgilmore62*


It's okay to use different tubing although I would want mine all the same and I like the look of the Primochill better than the XSPC stock tubing.

Are you planning on taking the pump out of the acrylic res and putting it in your new dual bay res along side the 655 or using two separate pump/reservoirs?


I was planning on using the mcp655 outside and a separate res, and then using the xspc internal pump/res setup.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


I was planning on using the mcp655 outside and a separate res, and then using the xspc internal pump/res setup.


 Don't think it is recommended to run different pumps in the same loop but could be wrong. Thought they had to be the same and then run in series. If they are not the same they should have the same flow per minute or something like that?


----------



## wermad

the rad's paint seems not to be holding, got lots of knicks, scratches, and scrapes on both now







. Gonna do some touch up or repaint them. I'm really hoping xspc can raise their quality a notch or two.


----------



## GoodInk

Or make 2 loops.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


the rad's paint seems not to be holding, got lots of knicks, scratches, and scrapes on both now







. Gonna do some touch up or repaint them. I'm really hoping xspc can raise their quality a notch or two.


As long as they can keep the price down, I'm good. You just need to be careful went working with or around them.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


the rad's paint seems not to be holding, got lots of knicks, scratches, and scrapes on both now







. Gonna do some touch up or repaint them. I'm really hoping xspc can raise their quality a notch or two.


 Yeah, got a scratch on my RX240 and have no idea how it got there. The finish on my GTX240 is much better in appearance and apparent durability.

The HW Labs GTX has a glossy finish that appears to be more than one heavy coat of paint and the XSPC RX radiator has a very thin coat of flat paint that comes off very easily.


----------



## jam3s

same here my rx360 has some minor scratches where the paint came off fairly easily.


----------



## wermad

thinking of powder coating them









edit: too much $$$ for these parts. Imma try a heavy app of paint.


----------



## replin

What should be the order of my water cooling? Res>Pump> CPU> GPU>GPU>Rad>RES? or what?


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


What should be the order of my water cooling? Res>Pump> CPU> GPU>GPU>Rad>RES? or what?


 Mine is res/pump>radiator>radiator>CPU>GPU>res/pump but I don't think it matters.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


What should be the order of my water cooling? Res>Pump> CPU> GPU>GPU>Rad>RES? or what?


Order will not matter what ever uses least amount of tubing your temps will be the same in any order over time.


----------



## wermad

only consider pump after res (does not really apply to the X20-750 since its built inside) and I would prioritize the cpu first then followed by any other blocks. just my


----------



## geekmatt

Hey guys, thinkin of buyin the rs240 kit, how do i actually drain, since thats the only concern i have


----------



## Live_free

Quote:



Originally Posted by *geekmatt*


Hey guys, thinkin of buyin the rs240 kit, how do i actually drain, since thats the only concern i have


T-line or cutting the tube. T-Lines are around a dollar and all you need is an end cap and tubing/clamps.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *geekmatt*


Hey guys, thinkin of buyin the rs240 kit, how do i actually drain, since thats the only concern i have


There's a few ways, grab a bowl and put it under the lowest tube in your loop, cut that peice of tube and let it drain out into the bowl.

or,

Get the nozzle/tube combo from a bottle with a pump on it, like hand soap and put the end of that in the res and pump out the water.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Sidewinder has the RS240 kit for $109.95 I didn't see it on the main page so I'll link it

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsra750rswak.html


----------



## thrasherht

i modded my h50 to the extreme.









I took my extra pump from my rasa kit and used it for a mod.
here is a picture to explain everything. This is going on my secondary computer.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Are you going to be running the H50 pump as well? I don't know if that would work so well, but if you've tested it then by all means enjoy lol.


----------



## thrasherht

actually having the two pumps running together doesn't really make a difference, it doesn't speed up the pump on the h50 or anything. I think it just gives it the flow of if the h50 was just pumping water and not pushing through a block.

If the h50 pump dies, i won't really care. I ran them together for about 3 hours without any issue. H50 didn't get hot or anything.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Sidewinder has the RS240 kit for $109.95 I didn't see it on the main page so I'll link it

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsra750rswak.html


They have it listed as a Delta kit but are showing a Rasa block


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


actually having the two pumps running together doesn't really make a difference, it doesn't speed up the pump on the h50 or anything. I think it just gives it the flow of if the h50 was just pumping water and not pushing through a block.

If the h50 pump dies, i won't really care. I ran them together for about 3 hours without any issue. H50 didn't get hot or anything.


But its hurting your loop way it looks because the h50 has much lower flow rate so your limiting your self by having it in their.


----------



## wermad

plus, one pump was design for a certain flow and pressure, may cause premature ware and tare and a shorter lifespan by running them in series on the weaker one. imo, keep them separate or run everything off the better pump (the x20-750)


----------



## geekmatt

So, how do I drain from the t-line? and where can I get one?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

jab-tech has them for like 2 bucks and you need to have a drain/fill plug to so you can take it off when needded to drain


----------



## geekmatt

when do you need to drain? like every 2 mths?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


They have it listed as a Delta kit but are showing a Rasa block










I noticed that as well after posting it


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *geekmatt*


when do you need to drain? like every 2 mths?


no if you have silver coil in it some people have went a entire year without draining their loops just monitor the water color.


----------



## AdvanSuper

It's also nice to have if you have to replace hardware like when a GPU dies in your loop lol.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


plus, one pump was design for a certain flow and pressure, may cause premature ware and tare and a shorter lifespan by running them in series on the weaker one. imo, keep them separate or run everything off the better pump (the x20-750)


Or just pick up a cheap block and throw out the h50.


----------



## mbudden

Rawr.
>.< I need to stop slacking. 
I have like 30 pages to go through


----------



## jamborhgini313

Finally, after 4 hours of working on my rig, I got it done!! Replaced dead msi mobo with a Gigabyte UD3R and got that stripped screw off my 580 and installed my EK block. My poor 580 has so much weight that it actually curves. Not good lol I'm also prob gonna get a RX360 Rad to replace this RS360 one because this thing is barely barely keeping my i7 and 580 cool...


----------



## mbudden

I would have suspected someone to tell you that it would hardly keep both cool. You're taking some of the warmest components and throwing them onto a loop.

i7's can get pretty toasty, ~60C on water.
Then you throw a 580 in that? I'm sure you're seeing temps of ~70C on your i7.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I would have suspected someone to tell you that it would hardly keep both cool. You're taking some of the warmest components and throwing them onto a loop.

i7's can get pretty toasty, ~60C on water.
Then you throw a 580 in that? I'm sure you're seeing temps of ~70C on your i7.


In LINX I get around 82ish average and my 580 OC'd gets to about 50-55 Under Load in Crysis Warhead. Haven't tried furmark yet but I guess I'd get 60's


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12185555*
> In LINX I get around 82ish average and my 580 OC'd gets to about 50-55 Under Load in Crysis Warhead. Haven't tried furmark yet but I guess I'd get 60's


I would advise against just simply replacing the rs with an rx, you should really add a whole other rad. Like add a rx240 to the loop. You will see better results with that.


----------



## replin

I just found out i need elbows for my video cards cause my case is not large enough. The power supply gets in the way of the tubing and causes a kink, is that ok or should I go and get elbows? If so can i buy them at home depot?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100638145/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


----------



## mbudden

I highly doubt those 90* elbows are efficient...


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12188842*
> I highly doubt those 90* elbows are efficient...


what about if i bought dangerden elbows?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12187155*
> I would advise against just simply replacing the rs with an rx, you should really add a whole other rad. Like add a rx240 to the loop. You will see better results with that.


Ya I was thinking about it but the problem I see is the pump. I'm not sure if it'll be enough for another Rad. Correct me if I am wrong


----------



## mbudden

It's still recommended against 90* elbows since it hurts flow. But it you must, that will do.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12188893*
> Ya I was thinking about it but the problem I see is the pump. I'm not sure if it'll be enough for another Rad. Correct me if I am wrong


actually rads don't add that much resistance to the loop, it is the blocks that add a bunch of resistance. The pump should handle it no problem.


----------



## ttaylor0024

Well, I decided against the purchase now. I am waiting till summer to get the kit. That will give me time to sell my NH-D14 too...


----------



## Balsagna

Long time since I posted in this thread:

Getting ready to buy the Corsair 800D --Tired of my Ante 1200 being so much of a dust monster and the acrylic is scratched up/cracked in places, and bunch of other little things.

Had a couple of questions really quick...

1. I should probably get some more tubing since I don't know if I'll have enough, not to mention it could get kinked with the changed angles etc etc. Let me know what kind of tubing you guys would recommend

Also, I would like to get UV/color tubing so it looks great in my new case!

2. What is the easiest way to drain the kit? Should I just remove the bay and turn it upside down and let it drain that way? Or remove one of the tubes and go from that?


----------



## Kick

since you are replacing your tubes, just manhandle the tubing and unscrew the fittings.

i recommend promochill lrt tubing. 16.25 shipped with prime at amazon.

EDIT: turns out xspc wants to ignore me on my rma request. -_-


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


since you are replacing your tubes, just manhandle the tubing and unscrew the fittings.

i recommend promochill lrt tubing. 16.25 shipped with prime at amazon.

EDIT: turns out xspc wants to ignore me on my rma request. -_-


When did you contact them? It's the weekend...


----------



## tnaz71

I just ordered the RS240 Kit, will be my first water cooling adventure so should be fun!


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tnaz71*


I just ordered the RS240 Kit, will be my first water cooling adventure so should be fun!


congratz,you will love water.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


since you are replacing your tubes, just manhandle the tubing and unscrew the fittings.

i recommend promochill lrt tubing. 16.25 shipped with prime at amazon.

EDIT: turns out xspc wants to ignore me on my rma request. -_-


They ignored me to been 2 weeks sence i msgd them about my block and provided photos i fixed my issue my self so im not real worryied.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tnaz71*


I just ordered the RS240 Kit, will be my first water cooling adventure so should be fun!


yay, welcome to the party.

water cooling is like a party, while air cooling is like that get together that is suppose to be a party, but isn't quite there yet.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Gahh this RS360 is getting way too hot lol If only I weren't so damn broke I would add an RX240 to my loop!!!


----------



## replin

I ended up using a 90 degree elbow I bought at homedepot, and it screws in with some nipple adapters and then we could only find a plastic barb fitting end that screws into the adapter. We used metal/plastic plumbing fixtures. The guys at home depot are wicked smart and figured out a way to do it.

WE FINISHED THE SYSTEM: However, we tested it by pouring water in first, and to our dismay there was a minor drip on one of the nipples. This was because there was no wrench style tightening on the nipples just round. This prevented us from securing it in place. Therefore. my SUPER SMART girlfriend told me to use teflon tape and we did and now NO MORE DRIP. It works awesome. Then we blow dried it because heat molds it into one mesh and secures it better and it works.

Can I use this permanently or should I buy a dedicated elbow from danger den. I took pics I'll post them soon.


----------



## replin

Ok problem I turned it on and it wont work. I can hear the pump on but nothing happens. Its set to level 2 but I cant seem to set it to a higher amount. It will easily go to 1 but not 3 4 or 5. I tried using a flat head screw driver to turn it but nothing happens. Whats wrong? The instructions say to make sure I plug the Outlet directly into the Pump inlet with nothing in between. But you guys said it doesnt make a difference what order. So I have it set at Res>CPU Block> GPU Block>GPU BLock>Pump> Radiator>Res. So is that wrong or whats happening? Why cant I change the speed.

PLEASE HELP


----------



## mbudden

What're you talking about speed? I'm confused. I didn't know there was a speed setting?


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


What're you talking about speed? I'm confused. I didn't know there was a speed setting?


There is a version with adjustable speed setting. Also i have it vertically mounted on the side of my chase. It was the only place to put it. Either that or i would have to run it outside the case to fit. Could that be affecting it?


----------



## thrasherht

You aren't talking about the rasa kit, the pumps don't change speed.


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


You aren't talking about the rasa kit, the pumps don't change speed.


I'm using a swiftech MCP 655


----------



## replin

Take a look at my system and please point out anything you see that might be wrong and please let me know.


----------



## replin

Take a look at my system and please point out anything you see that might be wrong and please let me know.


----------



## ShaCanX

I did a simple mod to my chassis to reduce the length of the tube and improve the over all look of thing planning to get some coloured tubing and a 45Â° rotary fitting for my Rasa block still a work in progress...










EDIT: I Cut holes in the top so the tubes can enter.


----------



## wermad

pump is quiet now, loudest thing are the 140mm yates, which is strange. Over all, I'm quite happy with the res the two rads. Now on to some benchmarks!!!


----------



## razr m3

Just placed the order for my kit


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*


EDIT: I Cut holes in the top so the tubes can enter.











What did you use to cut the hole for the pipes? Did you a punch or drill bit/hole saw?


----------



## replin

Can someone please help me. I'm in midst of preparation for hari kari.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Ok problem I turned it on and it wont work. I can hear the pump on but nothing happens. Its set to level 2 but I cant seem to set it to a higher amount. It will easily go to 1 but not 3 4 or 5. I tried using a flat head screw driver to turn it but nothing happens. Whats wrong? *The instructions say to make sure I plug the Outlet directly into the Pump inlet with nothing in between.* But you guys said it doesnt make a difference what order. So I have it set at Res>CPU Block> GPU Block>GPU BLock>Pump> Radiator>Res. So is that wrong or whats happening? Why cant I change the speed.

PLEASE HELP


Wait what. That's to test it I believe.
I have mine set up like this.
Res/Pump > CPU In > CPU Out > RAD In > RAD Out > Res/Pump


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Take a look at my system and please point out anything you see that might be wrong and please let me know.


Your pump should be facing a different direction, The inlet should be coming from a res. and the inlet shouldn't be facing down.


----------



## ShaCanX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


What did you use to cut the hole for the pipes? Did you a punch or drill bit/hole saw?


I used a dremel with cut off wheels, It takes an awful lot of skill to get it done though if only I had a drill. lol

Edit: I accidentally dropped a screw into one of my rad fan destroying it whats the best bang for buck replacement?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*


I used a dremel with cut off wheels, It takes an awful lot of skill to get it done though if only I had a drill. lol


i had to cut a whole in the top of one of my cases, I resorted to using a jig saw with a metal blade. I can say it didn't turn out the best looking. But i wasnt' really going for looks, so it is ok.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*


I used a dremel with cut off wheels, It takes an awful lot of skill to get it done though if only I had a drill. lol

Edit: I accidentally dropped a screw into one of my rad fan destroying it whats the best bang for buck replacement?











Don't throw that fan away, it's great for bleeding your loop


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Don't throw that fan away, it's great for bleeding your loop










Ok, now i am confused, I thought it would be a good shroud.

But bleeding your loop? was that a joke? lol.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Ok, now i am confused, I thought it would be a good shroud.

But bleeding your loop? was that a joke? lol.


Imbalanced fans cause a lot of vibration. The vibration helps move the air out of the of the loop.


----------



## begjr2

add me







[/IMG]
its still a work in progress


----------



## ShaCanX

lol was thinking more along the line of a shroud also, never even thought this wobbly thing could serve any other purpose.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*


lol was thinking more along the line of a shroud also, never even thought this wobbly thing could serve any other purpose.


whats funny is how logical it is to do that too. I am suprised i have never thought about that. What better way to remove bubbles from a rad, then to strap a vibrator to it.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*


lol was thinking more along the line of a shroud also, never even thought this wobbly thing could serve any other purpose.


It's wobbly. Attach it to the case and it'll shake the case.
When you're bleeding air from the loop, what do you do? Shake the case.


----------



## kingofyo1

lol I brought that idea up way earlier in the thread when I accidentally broke one of my 200mm fans


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


lol I brought that idea up way earlier in the thread when I accidentally broke one of my 200mm fans










Yep, I got it from this thread, so it was quite possibly you


----------



## replin

Please look at the following NEW PHOTOS and see if anything is wrong.....


----------



## stolikat

OMG!! I want this kit!!


----------



## ablearcher

Want it more










Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Sig rig, RASA 450 RS120 kit







+ MCW80


----------



## ablearcher

Oh, and may I please join? It's in a SG06 case


----------



## Kahbrohn

Temp question... May not go here but since its so general, looks like just as good a place as any other IMO.

While overclocking one does many stability tests. One also looks at keeping their CPU temps within a specific range (in AMD CPU cases, below 55*C normally).

I did some tweaking and remembered that I had acquired Aida64 (formerly Everest) so I wanted to test it out. It has a decent graphing module and shows proper temp reading (same as the ASUS Probe II temps). I did notice one thing though. HWMonitor Pro shows you the "Value" (actual temp), "Min" and "Max" temps. Aida64 shows you (inside the "Statistics" tab in the image below) the "Min", "Max" and the "Average" temp. This brings me to my question...

When looking at keeping an OC within a temp range, do you look at the "Max" temp spikes (2-3 seconds in duration during any cycle) or do you concern yourself mainly with the overall "Average" temperature of the CPU during a stability/benchmark test?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12196565*
> Temp question... May not go here but since its so general, looks like just as good a place as any other IMO.
> 
> While overclocking one does many stability tests. One also looks at keeping their CPU temps within a specific range (in AMD CPU cases, below 55*C normally).
> 
> I did some tweaking and remembered that I had acquired Aida64 (formerly Everest) so I wanted to test it out. It has a decent graphing module and shows proper temp reading (same as the ASUS Probe II temps). I did notice one thing though. HWMonitor Pro shows you the "Value" (actual temp), "Min" and "Max" temps. Aida64 shows you (inside the "Statistics" tab in the image below) the "Min", "Max" and the "Average" temp. This brings me to my question...
> 
> When looking at keeping an OC within a temp range, do you look at the "Max" temp spikes (2-3 seconds in duration during any cycle) or do you concern yourself mainly with the overall "Average" temperature of the CPU during a stability/benchmark test?


For 100% stability you must always consider the max temp your CPU is reaching. Very high temp spikes can easily damage you CPU.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12194851*
> Please look at the following NEW PHOTOS and see if anything is wrong.....


looks good except your freaky 90 degree fitting.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12196565*
> Temp question... May not go here but since its so general, looks like just as good a place as any other IMO.
> 
> While overclocking one does many stability tests. One also looks at keeping their CPU temps within a specific range (in AMD CPU cases, below 55*C normally).
> 
> I did some tweaking and remembered that I had acquired Aida64 (formerly Everest) so I wanted to test it out. It has a decent graphing module and shows proper temp reading (same as the ASUS Probe II temps). I did notice one thing though. HWMonitor Pro shows you the "Value" (actual temp), "Min" and "Max" temps. Aida64 shows you (inside the "Statistics" tab in the image below) the "Min", "Max" and the "Average" temp. This brings me to my question...
> 
> When looking at keeping an OC within a temp range, do you look at the "Max" temp spikes (2-3 seconds in duration during any cycle) or do you concern yourself mainly with the overall "Average" temperature of the CPU during a stability/benchmark test?


I personally use core temp to monitor my temps, They have a nice gadget to display on your desktop. There is also a graph plugin that will show usage and temp.


----------



## Garanthor

For those members who are posting the "horror" video some guy made about his waterblock getting gummed up with Feser blue dye, here is what I consider to me a much more credible video from DazMode. After six months of steady usage he opens up his block to check it after hearing about the internet stories and.....nice and clean waterblock, no problems at all. So if you have distilled water and want to add a bit of color, go ahead.









http://www.youtube.com/user/DazMode#p/u/34/jwQDLeCz9FI


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12197815*
> looks good except your freaky 90 degree fitting.


Ack, what he said...plus you need to do something with that wiring rat nest...damn









p.s. Thrasherht....the comment about RASA kit price was for all the H50/H70 owners (I used to be one of them) who read that post (I know you have the RS kit). I'm trying to get them to see the wisdom of spending a bit more for the kit vs the H70.


----------



## thrasherht

hey guys, is there anybody in here with a storm scout that has the RS240 kit?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12197821*
> I personally use core temp to monitor my temps, They have a nice gadget to display on your desktop. There is also a graph plugin that will show usage and temp.


Agreed on that and I do use CoreTemp. Temps shown there are the same as ASUS Probe II and AIDA64 as well so either one will suffice IMO. I look for that which provides me the most/best functionality while OC'ing. CoreTemp's drawback is a lack of graphing and a nagging issue with showing only the "stock" CPU voltage for some reason. It is compact though and I do bet it uses less resources than the others.

Another thing is that AIDA64 allows me to display whatever I want on my old G15 LCD screen. I have been having issues in getting Coretemp to display correctly. May be my G15 drivers though.


----------



## thrgk

did anyone ever try putting ice cubes from distilled water into the rs360 pump area to cool the water and get better temps?


----------



## amantonas

Bad idea. Condensation will form and drip. If you insulated your tubes, maybe.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12198098*
> Agreed on that and I do use CoreTemp. Temps shown there are the same as ASUS Probe II and AIDA64 as well so either one will suffice IMO. I look for that which provides me the most/best functionality while OC'ing. CoreTemp's drawback is a lack of graphing and a nagging issue with showing only the "stock" CPU voltage for some reason. It is compact though and I do bet it uses less resources than the others.
> 
> Another thing is that AIDA64 allows me to display whatever I want on my old G15 LCD screen. I have been having issues in getting Coretemp to display correctly. May be my G15 drivers though.


actually core temp can graph. You download the plugin for it.

http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/addons.html
there you go.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12194851*
> Please look at the following NEW PHOTOS and see if anything is wrong.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12197815*
> looks good except your freaky 90 degree fitting.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12197927*
> Ack, what he said...plus you need to do something with that wiring rat nest...damn


What they said, plus take read of this too: http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/912437-how-photograph-your-rig-updated.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk;12198133*
> did anyone ever try putting ice cubes from distilled water into the rs360 pump area to cool the water and get better temps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amantonas;12198149*
> Bad idea. Condensation will form and drip. If you insulated your tubes, maybe.


Not really. I made a thread asking about that quite some time back, and the general consensus was that there wouldn't be enough ice to cause condensation, but it wouldn't make much of a difference. A slushbox would be more effective, but would definitely cause condensation.
Thread: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/853844-ice-res.html


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaCanX;12193971*
> I used a dremel with cut off wheels, It takes an awful lot of skill to get it done though if only I had a drill. lol


Ok thanks!

By the way, does the Rasa kit ever go on sale on dazmode.com?


----------



## man00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk;12198133*
> did anyone ever try putting ice cubes from distilled water into the rs360 pump area to cool the water and get better temps?


yikes


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12197941*
> hey guys, is there anybody in here with a storm scout that has the RS240 kit?


Right here, click my sig to see it.


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


looks good except your freaky 90 degree fitting.


Blame my g/f. I bought it she wrapped it. Its a temporary fix until i get a dangerden elbow, compression fittings, Koolance Water Cooling Drain Valve, more liquid, and more tubing. What elbow would you suggest? Should i turn it on and run it or what?


----------



## Theory

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Balsagna*


So how would you guys recommend emptying out the fluid? Unhooking a hose or using the res to drain?


To empty mine this is what I do,

Step1: Put extra tubing into res to the bottom
Step2: Take a turkey baster and insert it into the other end of the tube.
Step3: Have a large bowl,bucket waiting LOWER than the pc
Step4: Squeeze baster and let go and watch the water fill the tube
Step5: Empty water into bowl/bucket and repeat until empty


----------



## replin

Ok we ran the pump and found out it works but there was some drips on the radiator. I think jab tech sold me a bad kit. The radiator leaks and the pump was bad. I'm starting to think xspc has there stuff made in china and just sells it here cause this is a host of bad quality. I should of went swiftech. Now I'm going to pick up some rubber cement and seal the crack in the radiator and also the 'freaky' 90 degree elbow


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Ok we ran the pump and found out it works but there was some drips on the radiator. I think jab tech sold me a bad kit. The radiator leaks and the pump was bad. I'm starting to think xspc has there stuff made in china and just sells it here cause this is a host of bad quality. I should of went swiftech. Now I'm going to pick up some rubber cement and seal the crack in the radiator and also the 'freaky' 90 degree elbow


I think you'll find that the vast majority of people with this kit do not have the problems you've just mentioned. For those who do, XSPC has excellent customer service...contact them and skip Jab Tech if they're not willing to help you out.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


Ok thanks!

By the way, does the Rasa kit ever go on sale on dazmode.com?


I bought my RX 360 kit from Daz Mode for 199 plus shipping. At that price I don't care if they never have a sale. One of the few, honest retailers out there who actually care about their quality of service....even after they get your money.


----------



## elikim

Sorry guys, 
Quick question. Will 1/2ID and 5/8OD compresion fittings work with 7/16ID and 5/8OD tubing? I just checked my order from PPCS and I realized I ordered the wrong fittings and would hate to return them and pay a restocking fee.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elikim*


Sorry guys, 
Quick question. Will 1/2ID and 5/8OD compresion fittings work with 7/16ID and 5/8OD tubing? I just checked my order from PPCS and I realized I ordered the wrong fittings and would hate to return them and pay a restocking fee.


no they wont compression has to be the exact tubing size.


----------



## epidemic

Here it is in all its glory!


----------



## elikim

goddamit. ok well thanks for the info


----------



## Bal3Wolf

it would be cheaper for you probly to just buy some tubing fits the compression fittings.


----------



## charliehorse55

Actually I think those tubing and fittings might work! I would try it out first. Just soften the tubing a bit and then push it over the fitting. Tighten down the clamping part extra strongly and it should be fine.

I'd use them.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Ok, I guess I won't be needing an RX240 just yet hehe I opened up my window to let some cool air in my hot room. Ran linx for 5 runs and my CPU temps went from 83-85c to 75-78c! Same results with my GPU. Went from 50-60c in Crysis to 50-52c. I guess my MX-3 cured in lol pretty happy with results


----------



## Bal3Wolf

i got you beat my room was cold today lol 64f heres my temps with cpu and gpu 100% load.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Thats crazy lol i want to add in an RX240 but no money


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*









i got you beat my room was cold today lol 64f heres my temps with cpu and gpu 100% load.

*SNIP*


I got you beat...... My room was hot this day...... and I'm only running an RX360 with gpu in loop









5100mhz 1.45v


----------



## jamborhgini313

Those sandy bridge CPU's are beast! 32nm makes a big difference lol I see one of your cores temps are alot lower than your others. I have the same problem lol. My 4th core always stays 5-10c lower than the others. IDK why but thats just how my CPU is lol


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I think you'll find that the vast majority of people with this kit do not have the problems you've just mentioned. For those who do, XSPC has excellent customer service...contact them and skip Jab Tech if they're not willing to help you out.


Its weird that you say that since there was a guy in here not long ago saying that people on other forums are constantly reporting pump failures, but ok. Maybe those are just isolated incidents as is possibly mine. I guess I had bad luck, pump failure and rad failure.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I got you beat...... My room was hot this day...... and I'm only running an RX360 with gpu in loop









5100mhz 1.45v


yea but your gpu aint loaded like mine it adds 5c to my cpu temps with it idle id drop into low 50s







.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


yea but your gpu aint loaded like mine it adds 5c to my cpu temps with it idle id drop into low 50s







.


so occt while running prime is what is should do then?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea try it and see what temps you get id say about 5c higher.


----------



## Jonesey I7

quick question....... what do you guys think. Should I trade my 6870 w/ water block for a gtx 480 to get away from these God awful drivers!?!?


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


quick question....... what do you guys think. Should I trade my 6870 w/ water block for a gtx 480 to get away from these God awful drivers!?!?


For a 480? Hmm not sure. I would try to sell your 6870 and block and get money for a 570


----------



## Bal3Wolf

id say no 6870 is a decent gpu if i was going from 6xxx id want a 570 or 580.


----------



## reflex99

probably been asked 1^6th times, but, is there a difference between the RS and RX?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

the rx rad is bigger and can handle more heat then the rs ones.


----------



## reflex99

thanks, +rep


----------



## terence52

i am in. just got a rasa rs240 . pics coming soon


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Its weird that you say that since there was a guy in here not long ago saying that people on other forums are constantly reporting pump failures, but ok. Maybe those are just isolated incidents as is possibly mine. I guess I had bad luck, pump failure and rad failure.


Really what forum? I think you are only the second person with a pump that didn't work on this forum and the first leaking rad. The reason Jab Tech isn't helping you because XSPC wants you to go through them.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Its weird that you say that since there was a guy in here not long ago saying that people on other forums are constantly reporting pump failures, but ok. Maybe those are just isolated incidents as is possibly mine. I guess I had bad luck, pump failure and rad failure.


I have not really heard too much about pump failure as much as 'not the highest quality' pump... which everyone seems to agree is the weakest link in the kit... Thats not saying its going to fail, just that if you get into watercooling, the best thing after you buy a rasa kit would be upgrading the pump...


----------



## replin

The rad is busted. Its leaking eveywhere. We tried putting Epoxy Putty to seal the leaks and waited for it to cure and there were still leaks. The leaks were in the fan shroud area.

First: Dead pump/res
Second: Cracked Radiator not fixable.

Summation: Bad kit.


----------



## urdeath007

hey stupid question but so when the radiator is pointing to the front of the case as in this picture....
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_XSLf9Rxya28/TPRkaXHCjnI/AAAAAAAAAEk/hN0u7OGr59E/2010-11-29_18-38-16_491.jpg

I take it then the closest one to the viewer is the one going out from the rad and the one furthest from is going in. Or perhaps someone could supply a sweet example pic.

Again....silly question but I feel I messed something up. Thanks for all the information/help & hopefully a quick reply so I can bring my rig online.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12206270*
> The rad is busted. Its leaking eveywhere. We tried putting Epoxy Putty to seal the leaks and waited for it to cure and there were still leaks. The leaks were in the fan shroud area.
> 
> First: Dead pump/res
> Second: Cracked Radiator not fixable.
> 
> Summation: Bad kit.


Did you install your fans on the rad? I didn't take the time to read the last pages. If so, did you over tighten them yourself, or was the rad leaking from the factory, as in you never installed a fan?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12206270*
> The rad is busted. Its leaking eveywhere. We tried putting Epoxy Putty to seal the leaks and waited for it to cure and there were still leaks. The leaks were in the fan shroud area.
> 
> First: Dead pump/res
> Second: Cracked Radiator not fixable.
> 
> Summation: Bad kit.


Did you use the screws came with the kit you shoulda got 12 long or 8 long and 4 short. The long screws are made to be used with a 25mm fan nothing shorter.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Sounds like someone didn't take their time, and also didn't have much knowledge going in to me. IMO


----------



## replin

It's funny that you say that cause the manufacturer did not say that. Hmm odd, but I guess you know more than me. Its jabtechs responsibility as a seller to cure the situation. I bought the product through them and therefore they should offer to cure the situation first. Only they can offer refunds not the manufacturer. I will get a new rad from the manufacturer if I can and a credit for the pump/res from jabtech. Jabtech finally offered after much debate that they will credit me the pump/res and cover my return shipping costs. So hooray for them.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12206279*
> Did you install your fans on the rad? I didn't take the time to read the last pages. If so, did you over tighten them yourself, or was the rad leaking from the factory, as in you never installed a fan?


I installed the fans but barely applied tightness I always make sure to do that in order to avoid cracking the res or anything. I do the same with my heatsinks. I tightened to a point of being on there but not really securing it. Then tried running the pump and started to have leaks.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you used the fans come with the rad right ? and screws it had


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

There's a possibility that you got a very unlucky shipment, but you do have to realize your 1/x amount of people and all the other x haven't had problems. It would be very frustrating to get a unit that is defective, but I wouldn't give up on the rasa kit cause of it. Also its up to the reseller and what there policy is, just because you think its their responsibility doesn't make that so..


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea he has some bad luck lol kinda like me but im using a xspc rx360 and rx240 and neither have leaked. repin you didnt flash the rad befor putting it in your pc ? that woulda told you if it had any leaks.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12206353*
> you used the fans come with the rad right ? and screws it had


yes


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12206389*
> There's a possibility that you got a very unlucky shipment, but you do have to realize your 1/x amount of people and all the other x haven't had problems. It would be very frustrating to get a unit that is defective, but I wouldn't give up on the rasa kit cause of it. Also its up to the reseller and what there policy is, just because you think its their responsibility doesn't make that so..


Yeah but after reading online the good reviews of their customer service not to mention you guys recommending me them I would find it rather ridiculous to find out that they refuse to work with a customer all of a sudden. Especially given this situation.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

ya sounds like you got some bad luck lol i got 2 xspc rads and both are fine and i tightend the screws down a ton lol.


----------



## spRICE

I have a question:
Is the RX240 overkill if I just want to get a really good overclock on an i7? Would I just be better off getting the RS240?


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12206528*
> Yeah but after reading online the good reviews of their customer service not to mention you guys recommending me them I would find it rather ridiculous to find out that they refuse to work with a customer all of a sudden. Especially given this situation.


I guess I assume that I'm going to have to deal with the manufacture on most computer parts, It's a hassle but really whats the difference? Hell there has been times that ive gone to a store and realized something wouldn't work, then tried to return it and had to contact the manufacture directly.. Just how it is. The problem is you had a lot of 'issues' that lead most people to believe that you poorly installed your setup causing the damage, whether this is true doesn't really bother me, Did you call them guns flaring all pissed off or what?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;12206585*
> I have a question:
> Is the RX240 overkill if I just want to get a really good overclock on an i7? Would I just be better off getting the RS240?


for a i7 id get a rx for sure sence they do put out alot of heat.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12206604*
> I guess I assume that I'm going to have to deal with the manufacture on most computer parts, It's a hassle but really whats the difference? Hell there has been times that ive gone to a store and realized something wouldn't work, then tried to return it and had to contact the manufacture directly.. Just how it is. The problem is you had a lot of 'issues' that lead most people to believe that you poorly installed your setup causing the damage, whether this is true doesn't really bother me, Did you call them guns flaring all pissed off or what?


Dude, nobody is attacking you or coming out guns blazing that it is your fault. So why don't you just take a chill pill and calm your butt down.

We are trying to help you, which means we need to figure out why the problems you are having are happening. It requires us to ask questions.

If you want help, calm your butt down now. If not, then continue to be rude the way you are.

Now if we would like to start over.
when you received your package was it damage? did the rad look damage physically?
was there anything that you did that might have possibly causes a puncture of the Rad?


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12206604*
> I guess I assume that I'm going to have to deal with the manufacture on most computer parts, It's a hassle but really whats the difference? Hell there has been times that ive gone to a store and realized something wouldn't work, then tried to return it and had to contact the manufacture directly.. Just how it is. The problem is you had a lot of 'issues' that lead most people to believe that you poorly installed your setup causing the damage, whether this is true doesn't really bother me, Did you call them guns flaring all pissed off or what?


How on earth did I lead people to believe I poorly installed my setup when I used the utmost care not to mention the advice of the people on this forum. Show me your evidence that led you to believe this. And who is most people? I think you are generalizing and talking out your butt I did everything carefully and checked each step with you guys. Please show me the evidence I would love to read it. It sounds like you are making stuff up.

Oh and no I did not call them with all guns flaring I just emailed them that the pump was DOA and I need a replacement. I tried to resolve this by figuring out what my options were. Jabtech tried like all hell to avoid helping their customer but then finally when they realize the gravity of my situation and the lack of time that I had to finish this they finally told me to send it to them and they will refund my account.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12206768*
> Dude, nobody is attacking you or coming out guns blazing that it is your fault. So why don't you just take a chill pill and calm your butt down.
> 
> We are trying to help you, which means we need to figure out why the problems you are having are happening. It requires us to ask questions.
> 
> If you want help, calm your butt down now. If not, then continue to be rude the way you are.
> 
> Now if we would like to start over.
> when you received your package was it damage? did the rad look damage physically?
> was there anything that you did that might have possibly causes a puncture of the Rad?


I think your talking to the wrong person with your last message. Just a heads up.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12206855*
> I think your talking to the wrong person with your last message. Just a heads up.


ok, redirect at replin, Thought i qouted him.

either way, he gets my point.
nobody is attacking him, we are just trying to figure it out together.

the only reason people were asking about how you installed it is because of the fact that no other person in this thread has had this problem so it is an odd case.


----------



## replin

Hey bal3wolf, I want to solve this in the easiest manner possible, What should I do? I need to solve it quick too cause I have little time. Its busy season for me.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12206870*
> ok, redirect at replin, Thought i qouted him.
> 
> either way, he gets my point.
> nobody is attacking him, we are just trying to figure it out together.
> 
> the only reason people were asking about how you installed it is because of the fact that no other person in this thread has had this problem so it is an odd case.


Its ok that was just a small fail. I think you got it right now.


----------



## replin

I really want to give this kit a 2nd go around but without the res/pump.

My new swiftech 655 and xspc uv blue res are pretty sweet its just the rad thats leaking now.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12206871*
> Hey bal3wolf, I want to solve this in the easiest manner possible, What should I do? I need to solve it quick too cause I have little time. Its busy season for me.


contact jab-tech first but sad to say jab-tech and xspc will probly blame you on messing up the rad sence it was around the screw holes you could make a mention to jab-tech that you have had other problems with this kit already with a bad pump.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12207015*
> contact jab-tech first but sad to say jab-tech and xspc will probly blame you on messing up the rad sence it was around the screw holes you could make a mention to jab-tech that you have had other problems with this kit already with a bad pump.


It wasnt just on the screw holes it was on the nozzles too so that can't be my fault. It was faulty to begin with. As I said before I barely tightened it. If they won't back it then I will definitely be surprised. A lot of my friends were counting on this experience before plunking down the money to buy this kit from jabtech cause they have it $10 cheaper than other sites. So I guess they will be shooting themselves in the foot. I will work my butt off to make sure they give me money back or a replacement.

Sad, I wanted to give this kit another try.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12207228*
> It wasnt just on the screw holes it was on the nozzles too so that can't be my fault. It was faulty to begin with. As I said before I barely tightened it. If they won't back it then I will definitely be surprised. A lot of my friends were counting on this experience before plunking down the money to buy this kit from jabtech cause they have it $10 cheaper than other sites. So I guess they will be shooting themselves in the foot. I will work my butt off to make sure they give me money back or a replacement.
> 
> Sad, I wanted to give this kit another try.


then either give the kit another try or go somewhere else for the kit. i do hope they refund you. i dont think ive read a bad thing about their customer support.

on another note....EVER HEARD OF AN EDIT BUTTON? stop with your double posts


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

@replin, I was stating that the issues lead people to believe it was your fault due to the location you stated on your rad... Companies can tend to avoid solving an issue if it appears that they are in no way to blame for the problem (screws puncturing rad). And for the 'guns a blazin' question, I think that's a legit question... I don't know you but I have lot my temper when I was flustered about a situation. And thrasher is correct we are trying to help you out, I was trying to think of ways that 'if i were jabtech' what would cause me to not help this guy. There have been a time or two when I have called into a place after I cooled down and they helped me exactly how I expected to be helped the first time. ANYWAYS good luck I guess!


----------



## mbudden

I don't help rude people.


----------



## Kahbrohn

replin...

I had issues with my pump. It rattled. I contacted XSPC support on this directly but before doing so I did a couple things.

First... I "assumed" the problem was ME. Yes. I blamed my inexperience in watercooling. So what I did was take it all out, re-checked everything, reinstalled it all back in AFTER reading some key posts (guides) that I read here.

Second... I posted here that I was having a problem. I also posted what steps I had taken to try and resolve the issue on my own. I was able to make a small video and I posted it as well. Almost everyone who game me an opinion said to rma it. One person though said something about bleeding the air out. Even though I had done as suggested (that was one of the posts I had re-read) I thought to myself "what if I did not do it correctly?" - and I reconnected my PSU jumper and shook my computer case in every conceivable angle. I shook it pretty hard also. Only one big bubble came out of the rad and went straight to the reservoir. Now that I know I did everything possible...

Third... I contacted XSPC directly. I sent them a detailed message of what was going on, what I did on my end to try to remedy the problem (and mentioning the help I got from members here) and I sent them the video. I also forwarded the message to John at Jab Tech.

RESULT: XSPC asked me to check for bubbles (again). I de-installed everything, took the res/pump out, I jumped the psu and connected the pump to it, I ran a "jumper tube" on the reservoir (taking it out of any loop and leaving it by itself), turned the PSU on and still had the same problem. Video once again. XSPC told me (all within less than a day and a half - Dazhong does NOT sleep it seems!) they were shipping me a new res/pump assembly. Meanwhile, John at Jab Tech told me that what he heard from the first video I sent was "TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE" and that if I did not get any satisfaction from XSPC to let him know. He still corresponded back and forth on my behalf with XSPC on my problem.

I did have to wait about 4-5 days to get the new res/pump assembly since the US Post Office was attempting to deliver to the wrong house but I have my replacement and all is good now.

I doubt very much that you problem is bad service. It may seem so I admit but remember, the problem all started because of poor manufacturing. It happens. It was your turn to suffer this time around.

One thing I did notice from your posts is this... no mention of taking the whole kit out to test outside the computer. Also, no pictures. Maybe some pictures/video would "help" not only us here, but XSPC/Jab Tech.

All I can say is that I understand your pain and frustration with all of this. I would be pissed off to no end also. I really do hope you get it all fixed. Do let us know how you ultimately fix this.

Take care.


----------



## bennieboi6969

my kit will be here soon yay


----------



## Boyboyd

I'm strongly learning towards the R*S*260. Even though it's out of stock. How much tubing do you get? It just says "2". Is that 2M?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;12208428*
> I'm strongly learning towards the R*S*260. Even though it's out of stock. How much tubing do you get? It just says "2". Is that 2M?


You mean RS240? But the kit comes with 2 meters. 6ft.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12208453*
> You mean RS240? But the kit comes with 2 meters. 6ft.


I did yeah, my bad. Typo









I might order some more, it's only for my CPU but i want the radiator to be on the top of the case near the window.

Thanks.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12207365*
> I don't help rude people.


Please point out where I was being rude. I would love to see this.


----------



## replin

I don't have a video camera so I'm screwed in that respect.


----------



## DullBoi

Soooo glad im getting this koolance adapter







and some shin-etsu too








this one slot adapter would rid my loop of 5 ft of tubing







and a draining valve, now thats just fancy


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;12210078*
> Soooo glad im getting this koolance adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and some shin-etsu too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this one slot adapter would rid my loop of 5 ft of tubing and a draining valve, now thats just fancy


I have that koolance adapter, its awesome just make sure you double check where you tighten it.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


Please point out where I was being rude. I would love to see this.


you were being rude before saying that we were attacking you about it.

you are a one in a million situation, so we are skeptical about how everything happened. we just want to figure it out, we want you to have a cooling system that works just the same as everybody elses.


----------



## replin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


you were being rude before saying that we were attacking you about it.

you are a one in a million situation, so we are skeptical about how everything happened. we just want to figure it out, we want you to have a cooling system that works just the same as everybody elses.


Please point out where I said I was being attacked. I think you misread that. You need to go back and double check what you read. Someone else made the same mistake please go back and read it.

Wow another small fail.


----------



## mbudden

... Take the bickering somewhere else.


----------



## AMOCO

Well motherboard waterblock just arrived from Koolance,BBL with pics.


----------



## replin

Bal3wolf and the others who have helped me out with this dilemma. Thank you very much for being patient and helping me out with this. I hope this turns out good.

Has anyone ever made like a cheat sheet for watercooling or anything like that? One that is easily available to the masses and isn't hidden in the sublayers of online forums. Someone make a video cause I've checked youtube and there is some but they are all lame and not complete. Just some guy showboating his system. That is one thing everyone at lan parties keeps telling me. Seriously just one full and complete guide taking everything into account.


----------



## a5ian300zx

Hi,

I have now bought and installed a rx360 in my 800D and the temp sensor in res shows max 32c not overclocked yet.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12211677*
> Bal3wolf and the others who have helped me out with this dilemma. Thank you very much for being patient and helping me out with this. I hope this turns out good.
> 
> Has anyone ever made like a cheat sheet for watercooling or anything like that? One that is easily available to the masses and isn't hidden in the sublayers of online forums. Someone make a video cause I've checked youtube and there is some but they are all lame and not complete. Just some guy showboating his system. That is one thing everyone at lan parties keeps telling me. Seriously just one full and complete guide taking everything into account.


Everything you need to know about water cooling, this is sticked in the water cooling section BTW

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/226970-water-cooling-essential-threads.html

mbudden you might want to add this to the OP since we have so many people using this kit as their first water cooling loop.


----------



## GoodInk

In case anyone is looking at getting a SB(1155) setup or has just bought one, heads up Intel is recalling them the MB chip set!

Early Monday, Intel identified a problem with its Cougar Point chipset family affecting SATA 3 Gb/s ports, specifically

- Desktops, notebooks, servers are all affected.

This is a widespread problem affecting all products that are based on Sandy Bridge. Notebooks and up-coming Xeon-based servers may take longer than motherboards to see replacements become widely available.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/sandy-bridge-sata-error-sata-3,12112.html

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/cougar-point-sandy-bridge-sata-error,12108.html


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12215409*
> In case anyone is looking at getting a SB(1155) setup or has just bought one, heads up Intel is recalling them the MB chip set!


Sigh.... It's not even as big of a problem as everyone is making out to be.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4143/the-source-of-intels-cougar-point-sata-bug


----------



## lynxxyarly

Thought i'd have my name added to this growing list. First water cooled setup here!

Hello all. I'm new to the water cooling group and I thought I would share my simple, yet effective WC setup.

I used the first-timer kit from xspc. The 750 kit with the 340 rad. I currently only have the CPU cooled, but I think I'm gonna expand and do my two video cards. I think this system could handle the load. You guys think so or no? Also any tips on cleaning up the hosing and/or using different barbs would be much appreciated!

As a side note, I would like to thank anyone and everyone on this forum, I did a lot of lurking before I took the plunge and pretty much all of my information was already here, just had to do some searches and discover









Parts list:
XSPC 750 rasa kit from frozencpu

-Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock
-X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir
-RS360 Radiator
-G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6
-PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16"ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - UV Green
-Koolance QDC (High Flow) Shutoff Nozzle, Female Panel Barb (13mm, 1/2")
-Koolance QDC (High Flow) Shutoff Nozzle, Male Panel Barb (13mm, 1/2")
-Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm 1850rpm ap-15s x3 for rad

EDIT: Added in the newest pic with my UV light installed. Thinking about putting another one in...We'll seeeee. Too bad my camera doesnt do well under darkness. This looks much more impressive in person.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I like the green in there, it's colored tubing right and not liquid? Yes, I think your system pump could handle the additional card blocks.


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12216732*
> I like the green in there, it's colored tubing right and not liquid? Yes, I think your system pump could handle the additional card blocks.


yup, green primochill UV. I will be installing UV lights tonight, I'll update with a pic when Im finished with that.


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lynxxyarly;12216896*
> yup, green primochill UV. I will be installing UV lights tonight, I'll update with a pic when Im finished with that.


Can't wait to see it bud. Gonna be sick for sure.


----------



## ferocity

Directed to Replin:

Based on what I have gathered between you, Jab-Tech, and XSPC, it seems highly unlikely that you will ever get a refund and/or a replacement from either.

Based on what you explained Jab-tech seems like they tried brush you off by making it a time consuming and costly process to get it returned. Then he responded back with you sending the unit to the manufacturer and they send the fixed one back to you so that you can send it to Jab-Tech. The problem there is that its obviously a very time-consuming and costly approach, which is naturally what you want to avoid. The shipping costs to and from the manufacturer plus the new unit back to Jab-Tech would easily cost $40+ dollars including your gas from your car traveling to and from post office, would end up exceeding the value of the pump/res of $50. The cost-benefit of returning the pump would be a waste of your time. Jabtech knows this.

Since you are supposedly one of the few that had problems with their kit then they won't care if you complain or try to return it because you are nothing to them or their sales margins.

Now they are proposing you send the rad back to them to see if it was you that broke it? Heres the major flaw in that. Since they obviously don't want to help you, what makes you think they won't break it themselves and then take pics of it, post it on the forum and prove to everyone that you broke it.

Bottom line you are screwed, even if you are telling the truth they won't help you. They made that clear. Even though they all of a sudden offered to do something nice for you and cover your costs, that's just to save face and make you feel good when in the end they are just going to screw you over. Bottom line swallow the cost of the lost rad and send them your pump/res for a possible refund if they mean it. Then buy yourself a Thermochill triple rad from either koolertek, xoxide, frozencpu, etc&#8230;. I recommend koolertek. Then install that, and your good to go. You already have a swiftech pump, dedicated res, xspsc rasa cpu block (I assume your keeping that).

Moral of the story, you get what you pay for. It might work now for those people but I have a feeling that kit will fail quickly over time. Give it a year. Please chime in to let me know how the new rad works out for you and if they refunded you for the pump/res.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12215418*
> Sigh.... It's not even as big of a problem as everyone is making out to be.
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/4143/the-source-of-intels-cougar-point-sata-bug


Lol newegg seems to think so they took all sandy bridge stuff off their site and noticing alot of other stores are doing the same makes little sence if intel is only fixing those that broke. Their seems to be somthing we arent being told.


----------



## GoodInk

From the way I was taking it, all B-stepping are broke but only about 5% set ups will be able to create an environment to see the problem.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12215010*
> Everything you need to know about water cooling, this is sticked in the water cooling section BTW
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/226970-water-cooling-essential-threads.html
> 
> mbudden you might want to add this to the OP since we have so many people using this kit as their first water cooling loop.


Niiiice, thanks a lot man.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12217685*
> From the way I was taking it, all B-stepping are broke but only about 5% set ups will be able to create an environment to see the problem.


Well it said there's a chance (at least 5%) so it could be 20% once people do stuff to start breaking them i figure people with ssd or just 1 harddrive will be fine but those that run 3-4 might run into these issues after a few months. And even 5% of 8 million is 400,000 thats alot of boards that need to be returrned to get fixed.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12215418*
> Sigh.... It's not even as big of a problem as everyone is making out to be.
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/4143/the-source-of-intels-cougar-point-sata-bug


Thank god you posted that, I almost had an aneurysm.


----------



## replin

ferocity: thanks for the input, I will wait to see what they say, then if what you say is true that they will fudge me on it I'll go ahead and buy the thermochill.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


ferocity: thanks for the input, I will wait to see what they say, then if what you say is true that they will fudge me on it I'll go ahead and buy the thermochill.


Just keep records of all communications. Phone calls should be "confirmed" via e-mail. Take pictures of whatever you return.

I have a feeling that they will send you back new rad and such and they will make sure that what you get back is in perfect working order... in other words, they will inspect and maybe even test before shipping out to you. If you are in the US, it will come out of their Texas distribution center.


----------



## Kahbrohn

CHEAP INSTANT 3-4*C drop in temps while stability testing?

Slap 3 YL D12SH-12 with a 25mm shroud (gutted fans) on your RS360 rad... Cost: $9.90 + S/H

Noise - well yeah... some BUT no need for them to be full blast while gaming for example. My fan controller to the rescue! Folders may be another issue. It's not bad/bothersome but it is audible.


----------



## rmp459

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


CHEAP INSTANT 3-4*C drop in temps while stability testing?

Slap 3 YL D12SH-12 with a 25mm shroud (gutted fans) on your RS360 rad... Cost: $9.90 + S/H

Noise - well yeah... some BUT no need for them to be full blast while gaming for example. My fan controller to the rescue! Folders may be another issue. It's not bad/bothersome but it is audible.


deafening noise or 4C in temps... ill take the heat tyvm haha


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rmp459*


deafening noise or 4C in temps... ill take the heat tyvm haha


Hehehe... I know. Thats why I am reinstalling the fan controller though. ;-)

I have them directly connected to the PSU right now. Thats why the 40dba.


----------



## AMOCO

Ok,Here is my New Koolance Motherboard waterblock and added a New HW Black Ice Pro 120mm Rad. to my loop.And man my NB/SB temp are like NB/37c & SB/32c(Max. temps).They were running NB/67c & SB/55c(Max.)on my current setting below...
http://www.overclock.net/12223892-post7596.html


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


Ok,Here is my New Koolance Motherboard waterblock and added a New HW Black Ice Pro 120mm Rad. to my loop.And man my NB/SB temp are like NB/37c & SB/32c(Max. temps).They were running NB/67c & SB/55c(Max.)on my current setting below...
http://www.overclock.net/12223892-post7596.html


May I suggest the possibility of running some of that tubing behind the motherboard? I have a HAF 922 with Feser 1/2 ID and it fits very well behind there without any problem.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


Ok,Here is my New Koolance Motherboard waterblock and added a New HW Black Ice Pro 120mm Rad. to my loop.And man my NB/SB temp are like NB/37c & SB/32c(Max. temps).They were running NB/67c & SB/55c(Max.)on my current setting below...
http://www.overclock.net/12223892-post7596.html


Can I also bother you to tell me what CPU and NB voltage you're using for that? Your temps in your system description seem quite a bit higher than mine as well.


----------



## Brutuz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


CHEAP INSTANT 3-4*C drop in temps while stability testing?

Slap 3 YL D12SH-12 with a 25mm shroud (gutted fans) on your RS360 rad... Cost: $9.90 + S/H

Noise - well yeah... some BUT no need for them to be full blast while gaming for example. My fan controller to the rescue! Folders may be another issue. It's not bad/bothersome but it is audible.


Real men would use Delta push/pull, probably around 70Db and over 1500CFM of airflow.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brutuz;12225702*
> Real men would use Delta push/pull, probably around 70Db and over 1500CFM of airflow.


Or 10 yate loon highs with a fm121 if my pc had wings it could fly.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brutuz;12225702*
> Real men would use Delta push/pull, probably around 70Db and over 1500CFM of airflow.


ROTFLMAO!!!!

Round it off to 2000cfm and I'll be the He-Man + Terminator + Crocodile Dundee all mixed into on type of guy!!!

Seriously though, I installed an "el-cheapo" CompUSA fan controller which is nothing more that a rheostat with no digital reading and I have the noise level pretty well under control. Just a hint of whirrrr'ing and my temps have been about a degree or two higher. This was my intention to begin with.

Tried placing all three fans on the same fan controller channel but the resistance of the fans is too much and will not be effective burning out either my expensive $3.30/ea. fans or my controller.

This weekend I need to get a hold of a voltmeter, equalize the resistance on all three fan controller channels I'll be using and I should have equalized fan speeds (maybe +/-5-7% variance). Or... I could (looks around to see if Mrs. Kah is around) somehow get me one of those nice digital readout fan controllers. Anyone wanting to sell a used one??? ;-)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Hmmm... double posted... sorry.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12224881*
> May I suggest the possibility of running some of that tubing behind the motherboard? I have a HAF 922 with Feser 1/2 ID and it fits very well behind there without any problem.


Wouldn't you run into some serious kinking that way????? The motherboard back side is all full of the PSU cables also.

Pix????? I am interested in this possibility!


----------



## Brutuz

Courier came with my parts.









But I didn't hear the door, I'll have my stuff and a worklog posted in about 3 hours give or take how much time it takes me to get distilled water...Can you just boil water? It'd be a heck of a lot easier than finding some in this small town.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brutuz;12226924*
> Courier came with my parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I didn't hear the door, I'll have my stuff and a worklog posted in about 3 hours give or take how much time it takes me to get distilled water...Can you just boil water? It'd be a heck of a lot easier than finding some in this small town.


I personally wouldn't boil water, it kills the bacteria, but the impurities are still there.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra;12227038*
> I personally wouldn't boil water, it kills the bacteria, but the impurities are still there.


Agreed... and all that dead bacteria/sediment would start to solidify within your loop.

Brutuz: Don't you have a pharmacy nearby? It is almost a given that they will have it. You probably walked right by it millions of times without realizing it. Bottled water for babies ("Gerber" comes to mind) is usually distilled. Also read any bottled water label. We tend to think it's just filtered but a few different brands actually sell distilled water.


----------



## Brutuz

I was lucky enough to find some, 2 bottles left as well...Setting it all up now.


----------



## thrasherht

I just buy it at 7-eleven down the road.


----------



## Citra

Just wondering, was overclock.net working for you 20 min ago?


----------



## mbudden

It's been having problems.


----------



## Brutuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12227485*
> I just buy it at 7-eleven down the road.


See my location.







The nearest 7/11 is around...100KM/hour and a half drive away?

Installed kit, had a bit of a leak (barb wasn't connected properly and I didn't notice), but it only dribbled down the front of my case, its sitting there leaktesting now and working fine.


----------



## Zaiber

I'll ask this here before I post this in a thread. How much is the performance increase from an RX 120 over an RS 120.


----------



## hot120

Just got my RS240 kit in! Flushing my radiator now. Seventh flush using hot water and distilled water, and the debris is almost gone! Unfortunately, I only received four long screws for the fans. Does anyone know what size the long screws are? I can go and pick some up from Lowe's tomorrow. Thanks!


----------



## Brutuz

http://i51.tinypic.com/123xxjs.jpg

Installed and running, just installing OS now.


----------



## Phos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot120;12230218*
> Just got my RS240 kit in! Flushing my radiator now. Seventh flush using hot water and distilled water, and the debris is almost gone! Unfortunately, I only received four long screws for the fans. Does anyone know what size the long screws are? I can go and pick some up from Lowe's tomorrow. Thanks!


It uses 6-32, and if no one warned you yet, there's nothing from preventing the screw from piercing the core if it goes in too far (so make sure they're the right length).


----------



## Colavoce07

ok, so i just received my 2nd rasa 750 reservoir/pump in the mail. the first one was sent back when i sent an mp3 of the noise it was making and was told that it was defective. I thought "thank god". Now here is my 2nd reservoir/pump. it was dead silent for literally the first 2 minutes (during which i thought my prayers were answered) then immediately started back in with that same loud goddamn rattle. this is not to be mistaken for the sound of bubbles traveling through the tubes or waterblocks, but rather a LOUD rattling noise emanating from the pump itself. i use this for an audio recording rig and the noise is absolutely unacceptable. hell, even for a normal rig that friggin rattle can be heard in the hallway outside the bedroom.

i've tried it on a desk with multiple towels underneath it to dampen any vibration or noise, with a short loop to test. the noise is clearly coming from the pump inside the reservoir. I'm just about fed up with this.

another pet peeve of mine, the replacement reservoir came in a retail box that states it contains instructions. there were no instructions whatsoever. i went to the website and followed the instructions listed there for the res/pump.

either this company has *absolutely no quality assurance process*, or this is in fact how loud they are. after sending the mp3 of the noise from the original pump to the director of the company, Paul Lockley, he stated that the pump should be silent. Silent is not a relative term.
Quote:


> fromPaul Lockey - XSPC
> sender-timeSent at 2:40 PM (UTC). Current time there: 6:19 AM. ✆
> toe-mail omitted
> dateWed, Jan 26, 2011 at 2:40 PM
> subjectRe: Assistance needed, rasa 750 rs360 kit, pump loud + electrical hum, 2nd e-mail communication
> signed-byxspc.biz
> 
> Jan 26 (6 days ago)
> 
> Hi,
> The rs240 kit pump is the same as the one you have, it doesn't have dampeners. Only the Laing pump version has dampeners because it's a louder pump. *The one you have is silent so it doesn't need them when it's working correctly.*


Can someone with a "working system" please take a video of your reservoir/pump running without any fans. just the reservoir and the loop. *I want to know for sure how "silent" these reservoir/pumps are.*

to be specific, i have the rasa 750 rs 360 kit. please video your reservoir running with no other fans or pc components. if you can record your rig running the loop with that included power supply clip, so you don't have move your rig all around, it would be of huge benefit to me and I'm sure many others for whom noise is a concern.

if it turns out the pumps are no where near silent. I'll be asking for a full refund.

if it turns out i received yet another faulty pump, i'll be calling in to get another one... i guess. what a goddamn nightmare.

update:
i made this initial video of the first pump/res when i figured out how to put the kit in my old case. when you get to *2:00 minutes in*, you'll here the rattle but much more subdued than it actually was (very bad video recording).

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AupT-16zooI[/ame]

I was so excited, I was up literally all night setting it up and i didn't realize that the noise would be a permanent thing or even noticed it because i was so exhausted. I contacted xspc about the lack of documentation and threatened to contact the better business bureau. Paul Lockley got right back to me and assured me a manual was in the process of being created. (none yet on the site btw) Following that i air bled the system for literally 48 hours, no visible bubbles anywhere, and still that blaring rattle. Got the new obsidian case, tried it again on my desk on towels, same loudness in a short test loop. Flushed the system twice with distilled water, and installed it in my 800d, air bled for another 48hours, loud rattle persists. contacted xspc, paul didn't respond until the second e-mail and asked for a recording. I send him an mp3 recorded with a condenser microphone into protools for clarity. He agreed it was faulty and directed me to dazhong to get a replacement. Got the replacement, SAME THING. very difficult to be understanding at this point.


----------



## Live_free

For those who have a 580 and EK water block I have a question. Does your PCB bend? How can I avoid this, I bought the backplate.

The 1mm and .5mm on the thermal pads is talking about the thickness correct? And I have to hand cut everything for the pads?


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Colavoce07;12230712*
> ok, so i just received my 2nd rasa 750 reservoir/pump in the mail. the first one was sent back when i sent an mp3 of the noise it was making and was told that it was defective. I thought "thank god". Now here is my 2nd reservoir/pump. it was dead silent for literally the first 2 minutes (during which i thought my prayers were answered) then immediately started back in with that same loud goddamn rattle. this is not to be mistaken for the sound of bubbles traveling through the tubes or waterblocks, but rather a LOUD rattling noise emanating from the pump itself. i use this for an audio recording rig and the noise is absolutely unacceptable. hell, even for a normal rig that friggin rattle can be heard in the hallway outside the bedroom.
> 
> i've tried it on a desk with multiple towels underneath it to dampen any vibration or noise, with a short loop to test. the noise is clearly coming from the pump inside the reservoir. I'm just about fed up with this.
> 
> another pet peeve of mine, the replacement reservoir came in a retail box that states it contains instructions. there were no instructions whatsoever. i went to the website and followed the instructions listed there for the res/pump.
> 
> either this company has *absolutely no quality assurance process*, or this is in fact how loud they are. after sending the mp3 of the noise from the original pump to the director of the company, Paul Lockley, he stated that the pump should be silent. Silent is not a relative term.
> 
> Can someone with a "working system" please take a video of your reservoir/pump running without any fans. just the reservoir and the loop. *I want to know for sure how "silent" these reservoir/pumps are.*
> 
> to be specific, i have the rasa 750 rs 360 kit. please video your reservoir running with no other fans or pc components. if you can record your rig running the loop with that included power supply clip, so you don't have move your rig all around, it would be of huge benefit to me and I'm sure many others for whom noise is a concern.
> 
> if it turns out the pumps are no where near silent. I'll be asking for a full refund.
> 
> if it turns out i received yet another faulty pump, i'll be calling in to get another one... i guess. what a goddamn nightmare.


for what its worth, I bought my xspc rasa 750 rs360 kit last week and installed it without a hitch. The pump is dead silent, to the point I was worried it wasn't working. I heard it gave some noise. Turns out mine is completely silent and I cant hear it at all with no other fans running and the system off except for the pump being jumped from the motherboard power cable.


----------



## Colavoce07

You Tube  



 
 on the lighter side, this video is hilarious. if this xspc pump doesn't work out, it's oil time. lol.


----------



## Colavoce07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lynxxyarly*


for what its worth, I bought my xspc rasa 750 rs360 kit last week and installed it without a hitch. The pump is dead silent, to the point I was worried it wasn't working. I heard it gave some noise. Turns out mine is completely silent and I cant hear it at all with no other fans running and the system off except for the pump being jumped from the motherboard power cable.


i would definitely like to see a video. not that i don't believe you, but i think people are taking generous liberties with their interpretation of the word silent.


----------



## hot120

I thought this kit was installation ready? Now, I have to go out and by SEPARATE screws to install my fans? Doesn't make sense!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phos*


It uses 6-32, and if no one warned you yet, there's nothing from preventing the screw from piercing the core if it goes in too far (so make sure they're the right length).


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

I think my fans came with screws... it is installation ready


----------



## hot120

My screws are too long! I would either have to get spacers, or shorter screws. This sucks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


I think my fans came with screws... it is installation ready


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

I put little rubber spacers inbetween.. Not sure what they were supposed to be used for but thats what I used em for, worked great...


----------



## metroidfreak

Hey, I have no plan on using dye in my loop. But I've heard RIT dye will physically dye/stain the tubing. Does this hold? or will I have a risk of it seeping into the water and cause a mess?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brutuz*


I was lucky enough to find some, 2 bottles left as well...Setting it all up now.


Nice... Otherwise, it would have to have been the "Beer" in the "Land of Beer and BBQ"... Funny how beer would be easier to get than DW. Hahahahahaha...


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Colavoce07*


i would definitely like to see a video. not that i don't believe you, but i think people are taking generous liberties with their interpretation of the word silent.


My pump just has a very small humming sound if you put your ear next to it. Seems like a bad batch of pumps







Someone must not be testing them.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hot120*


I thought this kit was installation ready? Now, I have to go out and by SEPARATE screws to install my fans? Doesn't make sense!


It should have come with screws, They where in a peace of cardboard







You have to make sure you don't miss them.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hot120*


My screws are too long! I would either have to get spacers, or shorter screws. This sucks!


The screws that came with my kit were just fine. Are you also using the fan grills?

If they are too long even with the grills, you could use a dremmel and shorten the screws a bit.


----------



## Colavoce07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


My pump just has a very small humming sound if you put your ear next to it. Seems like a bad batch of pumps







Someone must not be testing them.


so i don't misunderstand, you're saying your pump is quieter than mine right? If you don't mind, could you please post a video when you have a moment.

*I can't stress enough that actual footage is really the only thing that will be useful for a decent comparison. I really need to decide if XSPC is misrepresenting its products or if I have gotten two consecutive pumps from a "bad batch". Either way, this is already way more than I as a customer should need to deal with from a product that costs as much as this kit does.*

I've wasted a great deal of time and the frustration keeps mounting. I'm hoping to reach out to all of you fellow rasa 750 owners to post some footage so we can make a decent comparison.

if it turns out the "bad batch" is quite a bit larger than we suspected, it's time for xspc to answer some questions. I won't start that process with the better business bureau without sufficient proof that either the pumps are bad, or that this is indeed how they sound. Either way, consumers should have all the facts before making an investment. I sure wish i did.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Colavoce07*


so i don't misunderstand, you're saying your pump is quieter than mine right? If you don't mind, could you please post a video when you have a moment.

I can't stress enough that actual footage is really the only thing that will be useful for a decent comparison. I really need to decide if XSPC is misrepresenting its products or if I have gotten two consecutive pumps from a "bad batch". Either way, this is already way more than I as a customer should need to deal with from a product that costs as much as this kit does.

I've wasted a great deal of time and the frustration keeps mounting. I'm hoping to reach out to all of you fellow rasa 750 owners to post some footage so we can make a decent comparison.

if it turns out the "bad batch" is quite a bit larger than we suspected, it's time for xspc to answer some questions. I won't start that process with the better business bureau without sufficient proof that either the pumps are bad, or that this is indeed how they sound. Either way, consumers should have all the facts before making an investment. I sure wish i did.


Yes, I can't hear it unless you put your ear next to it. I got my RX360 kit 1 week ago, And I haven't had any problems with anything.


----------



## Colavoce07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Yes, I can't hear it unless you put your ear next to it. I got my RX360 kit 1 week ago, And I haven't had any problems with anything.


cool, could you post a video.


----------



## AMOCO

Here is a link to My New Koolance(Crosshair III Formula) Waterblock,It's awesome on my temps.
http://www.overclock.net/12223892-post7596.html


----------



## Bal3Wolf

nice i been sorta thinking of getting a block for my asus but i dont thk it would help much and dont wanna add that extra heat to my loop.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


nice i been sorta thinking of getting a block for my asus but i dont thk it would help much and dont wanna add that extra heat to my loop.


lowed my mobo temps big time.and i added a 120mm rad. to loop to take care of additional temps


----------



## hot120

I'm officially STUPID! Thanks HiLuckyB! Upon reading your post and preparing a very sarcastic response, I checked the box one more time and guess what I found? A small cardboard piece with eight medium screws in it! The cardboard piece was just sitting there chilling inside the box the whole time! Thanks for your help! Guess I was too excited about the kit to notice the very inconspicuous cardboard piece...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


It should have come with screws, They where in a peace of cardboard







You have to make sure you don't miss them.


----------



## JFuss

Hey guys. I was considering getting the Rasa 750 RS360 then i noticed that there is a RX model which has a thicker radiator. Will there be much of a difference in temps if I get the RX over the RS? Would it justify the extra 30 bucks?

Cheers.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JFuss*


Hey guys. I was considering getting the Rasa 750 RS360 then i noticed that there is a RX model which has a thicker radiator. Will there be much of a difference in temps if I get the RX over the RS? Would it justify the extra 30 bucks?

Cheers.


With the RX rad. you should gain 2 to 3c better temps over the RS rad.


----------



## kingofyo1

it allows headroom for future growth beit chipset cooling, or gpu cooling or whatever


----------



## hot120

For the fans, does everyone have them connected to the MB or a fan controller? Can you connect them directly to the PSU using a molex connector? If so, which type of cable should I get?


----------



## AMOCO

mine are connected to the mobo headers,But i have 8 fan headers on my mobo.


----------



## JFuss

I plan to cool some gpus down the road too so the RX it is, cheers guys.
Now to wait till there in stock


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hot120*


I'm officially STUPID! Thanks HiLuckyB! Upon reading your post and preparing a very sarcastic response, I checked the box one more time and guess what I found? A small cardboard piece with eight medium screws in it! The cardboard piece was just sitting there chilling inside the box the whole time! Thanks for your help! Guess I was too excited about the kit to notice the very inconspicuous cardboard piece...


Not a problem







Ive learned to look in everything, Because of things like that


----------



## hot120

Thanks! I have the EVGA SLI3, so I should be good.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


mine are connected to the mobo headers,But i have 8 fan headers on my mobo.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*   Wouldn't you run into some serious kinking that way????? The motherboard back side is all full of the PSU cables also.

Pix????? I am interested in this possibility!  
This is where I got the inspiration to put mine behind the MB. Even with 1/2 ID heavy tubing there are no kinks or restrictions. Case looks much cleaner.
  
 You Tube


----------



## WorldExclusive

Wow this is great for a total newbie like me to WC!!

Definitely going to buy this kit!

+1 rep


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WorldExclusive*


Wow this is great for a total newbie like me to WC!!

Definitely going to buy this kit!

+1 rep


awesome,the more the better,it's a great kit.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Colavoce07*   cool, could you post a video.  
Sounds pretty silent to me. I did have a noisy one too, sucks you got two of them.

  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOwttFk3SAs


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Sounds pretty silent to me. I did have a noisy one too, sucks you got two of them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOwttFk3SAs


Yup, I'd have to say that sounds exactly like mine. Pretty quiet.


----------



## Jonesey I7

I think everyone should buy a d5. I have never heard *literally* such a quiet and powerful pump. This thing is amazing, YOU can't even hear it with your ear pressed against the res!!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


I think everyone should buy a d5. I have never heard *literally* such a quiet and powerful pump. This thing is amazing, YOU can't even hear it with your ear pressed against the res!!


If this pump starts acting up I will definitely be ordering the dual bay XSPC res and D5 pump combo. For now though I'm quite happy with this.


----------



## jam3s

no issues with my pump thus far. A month a week so far.


----------



## metroidfreak

Ordered my kit last night, getting a second 240 rad on here and a MCW80 GPU block.

Also, I have no plan on using dye in my loop. But I've heard RIT dye will physically dye/stain the tubing. Does this hold? or will I have a risk of it seeping into the water and cause a mess? (Just figured I'd ask again)


----------



## Garanthor

Jonesey,

Tell your cat to stop punching the screen. He must be getting tired by now.


----------



## AMOCO

have not heard a sound out of my pump/res.. even after adding my mobo block and 120mm rad. to the loop.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


have not heard a sound out of my pump/res.. even after adding my mobo block and 120mm rad. to the loop.


nice amoco. I'll be adding another block to my loop EK-FC GTX 470









In about a month though.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


Ordered my kit last night, getting a second 240 rad on here and a MCW80 GPU block.

Also, I have no plan on using dye in my loop. But I've heard RIT dye will physically dye/stain the tubing. Does this hold? or will I have a risk of it seeping into the water and cause a mess? (Just figured I'd ask again)


A few drops of a good dye specifically made for water-cooling loops like Feser One, will not hurt your system if you're using distilled water. Check out my previous video on this issue.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


Ordered my kit last night, getting a second 240 rad on here and a MCW80 GPU block.

Also, I have no plan on using dye in my loop. But I've heard RIT dye will physically dye/stain the tubing. Does this hold? or will I have a risk of it seeping into the water and cause a mess? (Just figured I'd ask again)


don't use any dyes(will void pump warranty).use kill coil and distilled water.


----------



## metroidfreak

I wasn't planning on using a dye in the loop. but actually soak the tubing in a strong dye ahead of time. and wash it off.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


I wasn't planning on using a dye in the loop. but actually soak the tubing in a strong dye ahead of time. and wash it off.


why not just buy colored tubing?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


don't use any dyes(will void pump warranty).use kill coil and distilled water.


AMOCO, you must have missed my previous post, could you let me know what voltages you're using on you CPU and NB? Thanks

p.s. I don't think dye by itself will void your warranty.


----------



## metroidfreak

$2 dye vs $1.75+ per foot. for blue or UV reactive blue. then the like $9 they charge to ship.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


why not just buy colored tubing?


Absolutely what he said. Why the heck would you dye just the tubing surface? Eventually some of that color WILL flake off and it will look like crap. Get colored tubing which has the color embedded in the material.


----------



## jam3s

lol i feel like i get ignored in every thread i post in.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


AMOCO, you must have missed my previous post, could you let me know what voltages you're using on you CPU and NB? Thanks

p.s. I don't think dye by itself will void your warranty.


i checked with XSPC and they said they would not honor they warranty if they saw any signs of dye in the pump.
CPU Volts:1.56 to get stable at 4104.
CPU/NB Volts:1.40
NB Volts:1.28


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


$2 dye vs $1.75+ per foot. for blue or UV reactive blue. then the like $9 they charge to ship.


If a couple of dollars is a concern for you then you shouldn't be watercooling.







Get a good air cooler or an all in one cooler like th H50 for $49.99.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


lol i feel like i get ignored in every thread i post in.










What? Did someone just post somethin? Nah...must have been my imagination.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


nice amoco. I'll be adding another block to my loop EK-FC GTX 470









In about a month though.


cool,it should be just fine.i watch my pump/res. quite frequently anyway to make sure i see water moving.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


What? Did someone just post somethin? Nah...must have been my imagination.


















Thanks. lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


cool,it should be just fine.i watch my pump/res. quite frequently anyway to make sure i see water moving.


Yeah I'm excited. If it doesn't hold up Dual Bay XSPC Res + MCP 655 here I come!


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


If a couple of dollars is a concern for you then you shouldn't be watercooling.







Get a good air cooler or an all in one cooler like th H50 for $49.99.


Was just trying to save a little when I'm already $240 down in parts lol. Found some PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV tubing for $16 for 10ft pack on Amazon. Is this good tubing?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


$2 dye vs $1.75+ per foot. for blue or UV reactive blue. then the like $9 they charge to ship.


There is a lot of evidence in these threads that point to dye's and coolants "gunking up" the waterblocks. The majority (I believe) believe it is best to stick with distilled water and a kill coil, PT Nuke or a combo of both kill coil and PT Nuke.

It is true that I have seen at least one post of a dye user that has had no issues so far (after 6 months I believe it was)... but... with so much evidence to the contrary I'd rather suggest you stick to distilled water and the above mentioned additives. Stay away from dyes and such. For color... colored tubing and pretty lighting (working with LED's can be fun). Maybe a bit more expensive but peace of mind is priceless.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


i checked with XSPC and they said they would not honor they warranty if they saw any signs of dye in the pump.
CPU Volts:1.56 to get stable at 4104.
CPU/NB Volts:1.40
NB Volts:1.28


Ack, thxs. sounds very close to my voltage. 1.55 volts for 1.14 and NB at 2650 mhz 1.35 volts. I guess that's as much as we're going to get out of these chips.

That dye issue sounds like an XSPC thing. Not a problem with Swiftech on their MCP pump but that may be because they also sell dye etc.


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


There is a lot of evidence in these threads that point to dye's and coolants "gunking up" the waterblocks. The majority (I believe) believe it is best to stick with distilled water and a kill coil, PT Nuke or a combo of both kill coil and PT Nuke.

It is true that I have seen at least one post of a dye user that has had no issues so far (after 6 months I believe it was)... but... with so much evidence to the contrary I'd rather suggest you stick to distilled water and the above mentioned additives. Stay away from dyes and such. For color... colored tubing and pretty lighting (working with LED's can be fun). Maybe a bit more expensive but peace of mind is priceless.


I was actually physically dyeing the tubing, not running dye in the loop. but I'm just going to get some primochill tubing instead.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


was just trying to save a little when i'm already $240 down in parts lol. Found some primoflex pro lrt uv tubing for $16 for 10ft pack on amazon. Is this good tubing?


yes...


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


I'm just going to get some primochill tubing instead.


thats the way to go


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


yes...


I second that. Primochill is good.


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I second that. Primochill is good.


Sorry, yeah I'm new to all this lol. Last person got back to me for the final parts. Time to get this mod and water cooling in motion.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I second that. Primochill is good.


That's my next investment... some nice red or black Primo tubing.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


That's my next investment... some nice red or black Primo tubing.


i got the red


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


Sorry, yeah I'm new to all this lol. Last person got back to me for the final parts. Time to get this mod and water cooling in motion.


Wow, I just noticed...they have a club for Scythe Gentle Typhoon owners????







Sooooo......would that be a fan club?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Wow, I just noticed...they have a club for Scythe Gentle Typhoon owners????







Sooooo......would that be a fan club?










lol,


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


lol,










I've got to wonder what they talk about in that club.

"yeah so today I looked and yup my fan is still spinning...I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes tomorrow" LOL.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


i got the red


I am thinking about the red. It is transparent, right? The black is solid I believe. I may paint the inside of my case first and depending on what color I decide (either red or black) for the interior the tubing will be the opposite.

Now I know how the wifey feels inside a show store... sheeezzzzz....


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I've got to wonder what they talk about in that club.

"yeah so today I looked and yup my fan is still spinning...I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes tomorrow" LOL.


I agree,lol.although i'm a member of the yate loon fan club,and yes there spinning.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Wow, I just noticed...they have a club for Scythe Gentle Typhoon owners????







Sooooo......would that be a fan club?










There is also a Delta Fan Club also. What they discuss I don't know but they help get the word out on new products. I heard that a 2150 rpm GT is coming out soon. That is an interesting fan there. Thats why I went with the $3.30 YL's for now. I'll always get some use for the YL's somewhere.

But yeah... I do keep an eye out just in case any new news like non-spinning fans come up. Or... spontaneous color changes like chameleons (spelling???). (J/K fan lovers!)


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


I agree,lol.although i'm a member of the yate loon fan club,and yes there spinning.


see sig


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I've got to wonder what they talk about in that club.

"yeah so today I looked and yup my fan is still spinning...I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes tomorrow" LOL.


Hey... they must be asking if we sit around watching the flow of water through our loops... or if we see bubbles! (No, not 'Bubbles' the exotic dancer either...)


----------



## Garanthor

For the person who wanted to know what it should sound like. Here is a very good high quality video showing sound and performance of the XSPC X20 pump res combo. Very nice









  
 You Tube


----------



## AMOCO

putting the pump in the res. should shield the pump noise,i would think.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*   I am thinking about the red. It is transparent, right? The black is solid I believe. I may paint the inside of my case first and depending on what color I decide (either red or black) for the interior the tubing will be the opposite.

Now I know how the wifey feels inside a show store... sheeezzzzz....  
May I suggest you also look at the frozen q red res in this picture. It would really look nice with red tubing (skip towards end of video for the red one)









  
 You Tube


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Hey... they must be asking if we sit around watching the flow of water through our loops... or if we see bubbles! (No, not 'Bubbles' the exotic dancer either...)


?????? but that is what I do


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


?????? but that is what I do










The exotic dancer???????????


----------



## Garanthor

Here is a much better video of the red res in action.

  
 You Tube


----------



## Silomatic

Need some help please. Just got done modding my case all damn night to mount the rad where I wanted to and got the other small mods done I wanted to do. 
Went to install the block on the cpu and noticed I need to disassemble the block to put the proper plate on it to use with my processor. Then I realize I dont have a back plate for it but theres one on my mobo already, unfortunately the bolts wont thread it. I saw the mod that was done to an amd backplate, but do I need to even use one? 
Thanks for the help in advance.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silomatic*


Need some help please. Just got done modding my case all damn night to mount the rad where I wanted to and got the other small mods done I wanted to do. 
Went to install the block on the cpu and noticed I need to disassemble the block to put the proper plate on it to use with my processor. Then I realize I dont have a back plate for it but theres one on my mobo already, unfortunately the bolts wont thread it. I saw the mod that was done to an amd backplate, but do I need to even use one? 
Thanks for the help in advance.


Two options...

1) If you had a Corsair H50 (H70 should work also but not sure) before, you can use that same backplate with the black thumb screws that came with the water block. Perfect match. This is the option I am using now.

2) You can mod the backplate that came with the motherboard. There is a post within the very first pages of this thread that show you how. (Here is the link - really a simple thing to do)

Either way works perfectly fine. Option two is the more accepted method.


----------



## JFuss

I keep hearing that the cpu water block that comes with the rasa is pretty bad, is this true?

and if so whats a good alternative option from here.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...07_160_878_879


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Here is a much better video of the red res in action.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlJTk...eature=related


That IS nice... That would require me to paint the inside of my case black. I suddenly have a vision of what the inside of my case will look like!!!

Thanks man...


----------



## Zaiber

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Colavoce07*


i would definitely like to see a video. not that i don't believe you, but i think people are taking generous liberties with their interpretation of the word silent.


Mine's absolutely silent too when the water is near topping the reservoir. First time I left it half full and it made a really disturbing sound, but when I filled it up it went silent. You can only hear it if you put your ear to it.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


For the person who wanted to know what it should sound like. Here is a very good high quality video showing sound and performance of the XSPC X20 pump res combo. Very nice









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW4qH...eature=related


That is a first gen X20, the ones that ship with the kit are second gen and are suppose to be even more silent.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JFuss*


I keep hearing that the cpu water block that comes with the rasa is pretty bad, is this true?

and if so whats a good alternative option from here.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...07_160_878_879


The Rasa CPU block is one of the better blocks you can get.

http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=1013&page=5


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JFuss;12234215*
> I keep hearing that the cpu water block that comes with the rasa is pretty bad, is this true?
> 
> and if so whats a good alternative option from here.
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_878_879


From what i remember reading the xspc block performs within 2-3c of the high dollar blocks... So if you want ALLL the best then you can upgrade, but I would upgrade the pump long time before that...


----------



## Live_free

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12236147*
> From what i remember reading the xspc block performs within 2-3c of the high dollar blocks... So if you want ALLL the best then you can upgrade, but I would upgrade the pump long time before that...


It's actually only 1c. From the full nickel Ek block.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12233174*
> I think everyone should buy a d5. I have never heard *literally* such a quiet and powerful pump. This thing is amazing, YOU can't even hear it with your ear pressed against the res!!


Same only time i ever heard mine was the first 10mins of turning it on after setting up the loop when thieir was alot of air in the loop.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12236362*
> It's actually only 1c. From the full nickel Ek block.


Yup, what he said. There is a review of the top 10 or 20 blocks and the RASA XSPC came in second or third. The difference was like 1 degree or something. This is basically one of the very best water blocks money can buy and a main reason I bought the kit (the RX360 rad was also rated as one of the very best rads out there). Just google it. You'll find plenty of reviews.


----------



## Colavoce07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12233668*
> For the person who wanted to know what it should sound like. Here is a very good high quality video showing sound and performance of the XSPC X20 pump res combo. Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW4qHp-w17k&feature=related


Thank you for posting that, IMO that is nowhere near silent. Not hearing the rattle I'm getting but still loud as hell. Is it safe to say this how all of your "silent" pumps are running on a good day?

If you need to put your ear against that to hear it, it's time to visit an ear nose throat specialist.

Edit: what steps do you take when setting up the res/pump. How would one properly clean it or flush out the system.


----------



## charliehorse55

I'd just like to let everyone know that I'm currently looking for a slim 240 radiator, and thus anyone who wants to upgrade I will take an RS240 for $35 shipped.

PM me if you are interested


----------



## Shabbs

I just recently installed the Rasa 750 RX240 kit and have a few questions. First my system is at 40 C at load which is nice but that is only at 3.2, before I added the WC loop I was able to get 3.6 stable at 55 C, anyone know why it would become unstable? Anyways for my first WC loop this was pretty simple to install.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Colavoce07;12236707*
> Thank you for posting that, IMO that is nowhere near silent. Not hearing the rattle I'm getting but still loud as hell. Is it safe to say this how all of your "silent" pumps are running on a good day?
> 
> If you need to put your ear against that to hear it, it's time to visit an ear nose throat specialist.
> 
> Edit: what steps do you take when setting up the res/pump. How would one properly clean it or flush out the system.


If you think thats not silent, I don't know what to tell you


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12236477*
> Yup, what he said. There is a review of the top 10 or 20 blocks and the RASA XSPC came in second or third. The difference was like 1 degree or something. This is basically one of the very best water blocks money can buy and a main reason I bought the kit (the RX360 rad was also rated as one of the very best rads out there). Just google it. You'll find plenty of reviews.


x2... and I am also positive it was second place by like 1C. I believe the pricing of the RASA is what basically makes it the better investment in the long run.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Colavoce07;12236707*
> Thank you for posting that, IMO that is nowhere near silent. Not hearing the rattle I'm getting but still loud as hell. Is it safe to say this how all of your "silent" pumps are running on a good day?
> 
> If you need to put your ear against that to hear it, it's time to visit an ear nose throat specialist.
> 
> Edit: what steps do you take when setting up the res/pump. How would one properly clean it or flush out the system.


If your speaker/sound card volume is at 100% then yes, it is loud. Lower the volume to about 25% and I believe that will be close to reality.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Colavoce07;12236707*
> Thank you for posting that, IMO that is nowhere near silent. Not hearing the rattle I'm getting but still loud as hell. Is it safe to say this how all of your "silent" pumps are running on a good day?
> 
> If you need to put your ear against that to hear it, it's time to visit an ear nose throat specialist.
> 
> Edit: what steps do you take when setting up the res/pump. How would one properly clean it or flush out the system.


I'm not sure if you saw my vid, but that is louder than what it is in person.
http://www.overclock.net/12232844-post3501.html

To clean, you only need to rinse the rad out with very hot water, preferably distilled until the you don't see anything left. Oh use gloves too.


----------



## jam3s

I never cleaned my RX360

Is that bad?


----------



## mbudden

I didn't clean mine either. Still running strong.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12239555*
> I didn't clean mine either. Still running strong.


sweet. the non-cleaner RX360 club


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;12239537*
> I never cleaned my RX360
> 
> Is that bad?


Only if you can see a bunch of crap in your res. Most times no but some rads will have flux and other crap that doesn't always get rinsed from the factory. Mine had almost nothing in it.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12239589*
> Only if you can see a bunch of crap in your res. Most times no but some rads will have flux and other crap that doesn't always get rinsed from the factory. Mine had almost nothing in it.


I'd have to say my res, is completely clear


----------



## SandShark

Hey guys,

Just ordered a DD-GTX580/570 Black Chrome Top and Nickle Base to cool my GPU (GTX570). Currently have the 750 pump/reservoir>360rad>CPU/Rasa Block>back to pump/res.

Temps now:

Ambient = 27-28C
Stock: 2.66GHz = 28C idle, 50C load
OC: 3.8GHz (24/7) = 35C idle, 55C load
OC: 4.0GHz = 38C idle, 58C load
_Note: temps are +/- 2C to 3C_

I'm going to see how much heat the GTX570 adds to the system.If it is higher than what I like, I may add a RS240 (I have it extra sitting in it's box) to see if it will help lower the temps.

At that point: Do you think the pump will be strong enough to keep the high flow through the RS360 Rad., RASA CPU/Block, the GPU block and a RS240 Rad.?

And what if I add a full motherboard block into the mix?

Thanks, SS


----------



## thrasherht

My chair arm looks like the danger den logo kinda.


----------



## metroidfreak

Hey, what would be better TIM to use of these three?

The TIM the kit comes with, OCZ freeze, or AS5?

Also, would a drop or two of fish tank anti- microbial/algae help out every month or two as well as having0 the killcoil?


----------



## Silomatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Two options...

1) If you had a Corsair H50 (H70 should work also but not sure) before, you can use that same backplate with the black thumb screws that came with the water block. Perfect match. This is the option I am using now.

2) You can mod the backplate that came with the motherboard. There is a post within the very first pages of this thread that show you how. (Here is the link - really a simple thing to do)

Either way works perfectly fine. Option two is the more accepted method.



So I do in fact need to use some sort of backplate, wether it be modded or rigged from another backplate?

EDIT: I'm kinda hesitant to destroy my back plate on a 230 dollar motherboard is why I'm inquiring.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silomatic*


So I do in fact need to use some sort of backplate, wether it be modded or rigged from another backplate?

EDIT: I'm kinda hesitant to destroy my back plate on a 230 dollar motherboard is why I'm inquiring.


$1.68
http://www.avadirect.com/product_det...asp?PRID=16498


----------



## Silomatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


$1.68
http://www.avadirect.com/product_det...asp?PRID=16498











Sweet jesus THANK YOU! Lol much appreciated man.


----------



## ShaCanX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


Hey, what would be better TIM to use of these three?

The TIM the kit comes with, OCZ freeze, or AS5?

Also, would a drop or two of fish tank anti- microbial/algae help out every month or two as well as having0 the killcoil?


Forget the TIM that came with the kit any of the two you listed would be better personally I would recommend the AS5.


----------



## Jonesey I7

ocz freeze


----------



## Zaiber

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


Hey, what would be better TIM to use of these three?

The TIM the kit comes with, OCZ freeze, or AS5?

Also, would a drop or two of fish tank anti- microbial/algae help out every month or two as well as having0 the killcoil?


Go with OCZ Freeze and I think you'll be fine just the killcoil. It's not like you're having fish inside your watercooling so you should be fine.


----------



## Live_free

Will be hooking everything up when I wake up tomorrow. Any last minute tips, advice, etc are welcome. Will post some pics after. :3


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


Will be hooking everything up when I wake up tomorrow. Any last minute tips, advice, etc are welcome. Will post some pics after. :3


Just take your time and do a good rinse of everything... Double check everything before you jump the PSU and you'll be good...


----------



## Jonesey I7

patience, persistence, perseverance, pot.


----------



## The Sandman

Here are first results on 1090T CHIV listed below. Before (w/Scythe Mugen II and P/P GT AP-15's) vrs after (Rasa RS360 kit w/GT AP-15's). This is w/AS5, 15 hrs leak test, 6-8 short runs of prime (2-3 hrs each), and a total of 5 days 24/7 running.

Bios was left untouched.
1st attach is a 12 hr run of prime on air with ambient 69-70F.
2nd is same settings with RS360 on prime with ambient 71-72F.

In both tests CPU temp seemed to spike to the max for just a brief few seconds at the same point in the test (32 minute mark and again at 2 hr mark). After spikes it ran very close to current temp showing in HWMonitor.

Note... Second attach also shows current idle temp (ambient 72F).

Other than the GT's and Primochill tubing, the RS360 kit is stock including the water block which I did straight edge and it looks at least as bad as the pic in the Review from the OP. I couldn't believe it!!!!! Thing looks like crap with probably a .002-.003 crown in the center at minimum. Just thought I'd try it in stock form first.

Might have to use a dial indicator and surface grind this thing, than lap just for finish.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silomatic*


So I do in fact need to use some sort of backplate, wether it be modded or rigged from another backplate?

EDIT: I'm kinda hesitant to destroy my back plate on a 230 dollar motherboard is why I'm inquiring.


I have infact made a guide for modding the stock amd backplate for the rasa block, it is linked in the OP.


----------



## hot120

Classic! +REP!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I've got to wonder what they talk about in that club.

"yeah so today I looked and yup my fan is still spinning...I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes tomorrow" LOL.


----------



## Silomatic

Ok, so I took a nice little nap. In the process of waking up I realized something. The assembly screws that come with the Intel socket adapters actually screw into the Amd backplate. Needless to say I canceled my order of the Noct back plate. Wish I was always "smart" lol


----------



## Kahbrohn

What kit should I get? Will the RS240 be enough???


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


What kit should I get? Will the RS240 be enough???











LMAO!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaiber;12242317*
> Go with OCZ Freeze and I think you'll be fine just the killcoil. It's not like you're having fish inside your watercooling so you should be fine.


The fish!!!!! Of course, I knew I was missing something. Do you think a pet store would have UV reactive fish...preferably blue to match my MOBO? Hmmm I'd have to do something about that pump inlet though.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12243324*
> Here are first results on 1090T CHIV listed below. Before (w/Scythe Mugen II and P/P GT AP-15's) vrs after (Rasa RS360 kit w/GT AP-15's). This is w/AS5, 15 hrs leak test, 6-8 short runs of prime (2-3 hrs each), and a total of 5 days 24/7 running.
> 
> Bios was left untouched.
> 1st attach is a 12 hr run of prime on air with ambient 69-70F.
> 2nd is same settings with RS360 on prime with ambient 71-72F.
> 
> In both tests CPU temp seemed to spike to the max for just a brief few seconds at the same point in the test (32 minute mark and again at 2 hr mark). After spikes it ran very close to current temp showing in HWMonitor.
> 
> Note... Second attach also shows current idle temp (ambient 72F).
> 
> Other than the GT's and Primochill tubing, the RS360 kit is stock including the water block which I did straight edge and it looks at least as bad as the pic in the Review from the OP. I couldn't believe it!!!!! Thing looks like crap with probably a .002-.003 crown in the center at minimum. Just thought I'd try it in stock form first.
> 
> Might have to use a dial indicator and surface grind this thing, than lap just for finish.


Hmmmm....you've got me thinking. My CPU was previsouly lapped. What is the group consensus? Is it worthwhile taking apart the loop to check and possibly lap the XSPC waterblock?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12244149*
> What kit should I get? Will the RS240 be enough???


Pfhhh....the H50 should be able to handle that.


----------



## Live_free

Should I mount my GT AP-14s in pull of push? It will all be internal.


----------



## Colavoce07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12243324*
> Here are first results on 1090T CHIV listed below. Before (w/Scythe Mugen II and P/P GT AP-15's) vrs after (Rasa RS360 kit w/GT AP-15's). This is w/AS5, 15 hrs leak test, 6-8 short runs of prime (2-3 hrs each), and a total of 5 days 24/7 running.
> 
> Bios was left untouched.
> 1st attach is a 12 hr run of prime on air with ambient 69-70F.
> 2nd is same settings with RS360 on prime with ambient 71-72F.
> 
> In both tests CPU temp seemed to spike to the max for just a brief few seconds at the same point in the test (32 minute mark and again at 2 hr mark). After spikes it ran very close to current temp showing in HWMonitor.
> 
> Note... Second attach also shows current idle temp (ambient 72F).
> 
> Other than the GT's and Primochill tubing, the RS360 kit is stock including the water block which I did straight edge and it looks at least as bad as the pic in the Review from the OP. I couldn't believe it!!!!! Thing looks like crap with probably a .002-.003 crown in the center at minimum. Just thought I'd try it in stock form first.
> 
> Might have to use a dial indicator and surface grind this thing, than lap just for finish.


thank you for the thorough diagnostics. very cool. +rep

question: what do you mean by "use a dial indicator". Is there a favorite Youtube video that you can recommend to show me the proper way to lap the xspc cpu block. honestly, i've been extraordinarily happy with temps using the kit, save that my four cores are off a little. example: i'll get 40, 40, 36, 41. Wacky I know. Probably a result of the crowing in the center.


----------



## Citra

@mbudden
Just to tell you, dazmode.com now sells the RX 240 RASA Kit.

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_170&products_id=1116

$179.99


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Thats great for those of you in canada no longer gota pay crappy import fees.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


@mbudden
Just to tell you, dazmode.com now sells the RX 240 RASA Kit.

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...oducts_id=1116

$179.99


For $19.00 more you can get the RX360 Kit...well worth the extra bit of money.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yea rx360 is great it can handle probly 2 gpus and a cpu no problem.


----------



## Jonesey I7

rx360 kit= FTW!!!


----------



## Live_free

Should I wrench tighten down the barbs?


----------



## jam3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


Should I wrench tighten down the barbs?


I did for mine, but you only wanna go like 1/2 - 3/4 of a full turn. Nothing more than that.. should be tight enough


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


Should I wrench tighten down the barbs?


Do it hand tight then maybe a little by a wrench not very much at all or you will mess up stuff.


----------



## Live_free

Ok I was filling up my pump and res just now and it just turned off. I didn't let it suck air at all. Whenever I turn my PSU on the pump doesn't turn on, my system is entirely full of water. Any idea? Or is it just so quiet that it is silent once full of water? I don't see any bubbles move near the pump intake...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


Ok I was filling up my pump and res just now and it just turned off. I didn't let it suck air at all. Whenever I turn my PSU on the pump doesn't turn on, my system is entirely full of water. Any idea? Or is it just so quiet that it is silent once full of water? I don't see any bubbles move near the pump intake...


Is there any movement of the water at the top of the res? there should be some turbulance. stick your ear up to it. you should be able to hear it a tiny bit even if it is silent.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


Ok I was filling up my pump and res just now and it just turned off. I didn't let it suck air at all. Whenever I turn my PSU on the pump doesn't turn on, my system is entirely full of water. Any idea? Or is it just so quiet that it is silent once full of water? I don't see any bubbles move near the pump intake...


I cant hear my pump but i have a d5 one way to tell if you have flow is pinch the line you should feel it push back at if its flowing and shake the system a little with top on res should make the pump make some noise.


----------



## Live_free

Everything is working. I am getting about highest of 67 on my CPU at 4.2Ghz 1.325v is this normal? Average is like 65.

This is while running prime95 max heat.

I also hear a slight buzzing coming from my pump but that is probably because I don't have it screwed in.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Colavoce07*


thank you for the thorough diagnostics. very cool. +rep

question: what do you mean by "use a dial indicator". Is there a favorite Youtube video that you can recommend to show me the proper way to lap the xspc cpu block. honestly, i've been extraordinarily happy with temps using the kit, save that my four cores are off a little. example: i'll get 40, 40, 36, 41. Wacky I know. Probably a result of the crowing in the center.


I've seen a few threads on the how too lap a HS, but what I was getting at was first, I am a tool and die maker, and I know how to make something flat when it comes to metal. Lapping does make things flay but it should start out at least half way flat before I'd start sanding it down with 600 grit emery cloth lol. I was talking about setting this WB up in a precision surface grinder and using a dial indicator (a precision measuring device accurate to a .00025") to setup and create 3 or 4 points (in a level plain) than grinding it flat with a very fine grit wheel using very fine passes and saving a butt load of time, plus it will be truly flat (could be done in less than 10 minutes). After it's flat than lap it with emery to bring back the mirror finish (this should only take approx 15-20 minutes). I know this has got to be a ton faster than just removing .002 - .003" of crown with just emery cloth, especially if I wanted it truly flat. I've been in this trade over 24 yrs. I've read of guys taking 3-6 hrs to complete this task and having VERY sore arms afterwords lol. I prefer to work smart, not hard lol. If you want precision, just ask a tool maker how to do it lol. It's just a thought right now, but after I test my temps a bit I'll decide what I want to do. If this interests anyone else out there just PM me.


----------



## thrasherht

You guys think I should replace my fans on my RS360? I have the stock ones.
Would I gain anyting as far as performance or noise or anything like that.


----------



## bennieboi6969

i got my 750 rs240 today yay tomorrow is going to be a busy day


----------



## Spykerv

Hey, can anyone here with a CPU + GPU setup tell me how their temps are? Preferably 2 GPU's and Possibly on a RX360. I was wondering if an RX360 with 5 high speed Yates and 1 210cfm delta, could it handle a Medium OC on an i7 950 (4.1ghz) and 2 gtx 570s also medium OC, and get relatively good temps (you know, ones that don't make you sweat and worry if the lifespan of your products could be potentially short)


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12255190*
> You guys think I should replace my fans on my RS360? I have the stock ones.
> Would I gain anyting as far as performance or noise or anything like that.


I really like my Gentle Typhoon's they make about 25% of the noise the stock fans do and push more air at the same time.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spykerv;12255527*
> Hey, can anyone here with a CPU + GPU setup tell me how their temps are? Preferably 2 GPU's and Possibly on a RX360. I was wondering if an RX360 with 5 high speed Yates and 1 210cfm delta, could it handle a Medium OC on an i7 950 (4.1ghz) and 2 gtx 570s also medium OC, and get relatively good temps (you know, ones that don't make you sweat and worry if the lifespan of your products could be potentially short)


Well when i had 1 rx360 i could run my cpu at 4400 with 1.43 with a 5870 at 1015 on 1.20 and only hit 75c in linx.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12255190*
> You guys think I should replace my fans on my RS360? I have the stock ones.
> Would I gain anyting as far as performance or noise or anything like that.


Yes.

You will probably see improved cooling as well as lowering sound levels (if that is a concern) by going with something like GT's.


----------



## man00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12255190*
> You guys think I should replace my fans on my RS360? I have the stock ones.
> Would I gain anyting as far as performance or noise or anything like that.


I switched to GT's...I didn't see much if any temp drop


----------



## kourgath

add me to the list please, just got shipping confirmation on the following

i7 2600k, asus p8p67 deluxe, haf-x, 8gb gskill 2x4gb 2133 memory, 2x xfx 6950, coolermaster 1kw psu, viewsonic 27" , xspc rasa x360, 2x xspc ati waterblocks

am hoping those waterblocks work out well as i haven't been able to find any review on em yet


----------



## Silomatic

Seems as though I'm one of the unlucky ones that received a faulty pump/res with my Rasa rs240. Got a few questions concerning what I should do. Do I need to send this back to get a replacement? How do I go about doing this? How long does it take to get a replacement?

Feel pretty lucky to be honest though. Out of the entire rig I just built, this is the only thing thats messed up. Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silomatic;12258874*
> Seems as though I'm one of the unlucky ones that received a faulty pump/res with my Rasa rs240. Got a few questions concerning what I should do. Do I need to send this back to get a replacement? How do I go about doing this? How long does it take to get a replacement?
> 
> Feel pretty lucky to be honest though. Out of the entire rig I just built, this is the only thing thats messed up. Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated.


Email XSPC and tell them that your pump/res is faulty. They'll probably ask for a video to determine whether it is or not. If they agree, they'll ship you out a new one.


----------



## rmp459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12255190*
> You guys think I should replace my fans on my RS360? I have the stock ones.
> Would I gain anyting as far as performance or noise or anything like that.


Only if your adding more than the CPU to the loop. If its just the CPU you might only see a few C difference between stock fans and Yates/Gentle Typhoons


----------



## Silomatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];12258932*
> Email XSPC and tell them that your pump/res is faulty. They'll probably ask for a video to determine whether it is or not. If they agree, they'll ship you out a new one.


Thak you for the speedy reply. Will I need to return the one I have? How long does this usually take? I've never dealt with a company directly that wasn't in the US.


----------



## Espair

Mine was making the noise people seem to be paranoid about, I emailed XSPC (quick reply!) and they said to take a video to show the problem. To quote exactly what they told me,

"The pump is designed with 42 dba noise level.
Pls send me a video if you think it is wrong."

Looked it up and 42 didnt seem to quiet so I figured it was normal to get the fish tank noise. It doesnt bother me too much I just wanted to know if it was going to crap out on me soon. Otherwise this is a great kit! Im a total noob in watercooling and this was a cinch to set up, cut my temps in half even when OCed. I'll post a pic of my rig (more later when I get my clear side panel and more lights


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Espair*


Mine was making the noise people seem to be paranoid about, I emailed XSPC (quick reply!) and they said to take a video to show the problem. To quote exactly what they told me,

"The pump is designed with 42 dba noise level.
Pls send me a video if you think it is wrong."

Looked it up and 42 didnt seem to quiet so I figured it was normal to get the fish tank noise. It doesnt bother me too much I just wanted to know if it was going to crap out on me soon. Otherwise this is a great kit! Im a total noob in watercooling and this was a cinch to set up, cut my temps in half even when OCed. I'll post a pic of my rig (more later when I get my clear side panel and more lights










Nice and welcome to the neighborhood!!! Yeah... seems like the fish tank noise is a bit on the normal side. My replacement res/pump assembly is starting in on it as well. It's nothing bad and my wife's nagging is worse so I know I can live with it easily.

Come summer though I may be making a change in the pump/res though.


----------



## ezveedub

"Add me"

I've also noticed the pump has a very slight rattle, but still runs fine. I guess that's how I'll know the pumps running, LOL!



















Added two Thermal Take Blue LED 120 fans


----------



## bennieboi6969

yay new setup


----------



## Spykerv

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Well when i had 1 rx360 i could run my cpu at 4400 with 1.43 with a 5870 at 1015 on 1.20 and only hit 75c in linx.


Great OCs, but temps make me kind of nervous (well not TOO nervous for 1.4+ vcore and 1015 OC on the 5870) but I was debating going with an Rx360 which Charliehorse recommends with good reason, or going with a quad rad 480 with 8 high speed Yates, apogee XT, and MCP355/35x setup. The latter costs more than a $100 ontop of a regular 360 kit, was wondering if it was worth it to be safe.

Also, if I was to have say 2x 360s, could the rasa pump handle that on a CPU + gpu loop? I'm really new to WCing. I could give less than a rats behind about silence, I'm only looking for performance at a reasonable price.


----------



## hot120

Mad props to everyone in this club that has assisted various members with setting up and questions about the kit. Just installed mine, and let me tell you, it was a blast! I can see how people become addicted to watercooling. My pump is whisper quiet. I am at around 23c ambient, and my I7 970 (at stock, 3.2) idles at 20-30c (between the six cores) and I did a quick 20-pass run in Linx, and the highest temp was 46c. Voltage is 1.27. I have a lot of tweaking to do, as this is a brand new system, but so far I am extremely impressed with this kit.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spykerv*


Great OCs, but temps make me kind of nervous (well not TOO nervous for 1.4+ vcore and 1015 OC on the 5870) but I was debating going with an Rx360 which Charliehorse recommends with good reason, or going with a quad rad 480 with 8 high speed Yates, apogee XT, and MCP355/35x setup. The latter costs more than a $100 ontop of a regular 360 kit, was wondering if it was worth it to be safe.

Also, if I was to have say 2x 360s, could the rasa pump handle that on a CPU + gpu loop? I'm really new to WCing. I could give less than a rats behind about silence, I'm only looking for performance at a reasonable price.


Well i can say this i added a rx240 to my loop and it didnt really drop my temps more then a few c on the cpu.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silomatic*


Thak you for the speedy reply. Will I need to return the one I have? How long does this usually take? I've never dealt with a company directly that wasn't in the US.


Sorry for taking so long this time to reply








From what other people have said in the this thread, you won't need to send it back to them. No one else has, so I wouldn't expect you to either.


----------



## Balsagna

I just got my Corsair 800D in today. I'll be taking down the loop and transitioning to the new case. I'll do some before/after pics & edit my first posts in this thread since I was one of the first posters here.

Anyways, how should I go about taking down the loop? I don't want to get any liquid on my components if at all possible

thanks!


----------



## Spykerv

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Well i can say this i added a rx240 to my loop and it didnt really drop my temps more then a few c on the cpu.


RAWRAWRAWRAWRRAWR. I could get a separate pump+res+rad onto but that just adds more cost. RAWRAWRRAWR. I wanna OC like a boss without thinking my CPU and gpu are only gonna last me two days from all the heat produced. I wanted to spend around $400 but I guess that's too little for a custom loop (without gpu blocks mind you)







(


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hot120*


Mad props to everyone in this club that has assisted various members with setting up and questions about the kit. Just installed mine, and let me tell you, it was a blast! I can see how people become addicted to watercooling. My pump is whisper quiet. I am at 73c ambient, and my I7 970 (at stock, 3.2) idles at 20-30c (between the six cores) and I did a quick 20-pass run in Linx, and the highest temp was 46c. Voltage is 1.27. I have a lot of tweaking to do, as this is a brand new system, but so far I am extremely impressed with this kit.


yikes, 73C? ambients? thats hot!!







73F I think


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spykerv*


RAWRAWRAWRAWRRAWR. I could get a separate pump+res+rad onto but that just adds more cost. RAWRAWRRAWR. I wanna OC like a boss without thinking my CPU and gpu are only gonna last me two days from all the heat produced. I wanted to spend around $400 but I guess that's too little for a custom loop (without gpu blocks mind you)







(


i spent about 450 for my mcp 655-b pump and xspc res along with a rx360 and rasa cpu block and ek 5870 block and barbs needed.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DullBoi*


yikes, 73C? ambients? thats hot!!







73F I think










I was gonna say the same thing!!


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


i spent about 450 for my mcp 655-b pump and xspc res along with a rx360 and rasa cpu block and ek 5870 block and barbs needed.


Same here.


----------



## Spykerv

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Same here.


Is the 655 better than the 355 for this? I thought the 355 was more high performance than the 655 and better in restricted setups (2 gpu blocks and a CPU block) again I have never water-cooled and I have no idea about these things. I can only try to convey what I've read from benches and research. See all I want is either a kit or a custom loop that's > or = $400 and for a few months cools just an i7 950 but in a few months will cool a set of mid-high range cards in sli. So basically a setup with an eye to the future. 
And this is all for performance, not silence.

It will be open air: 









(will probably install a tech bench)

I plan on OCing my cards as much as they can go (I'm a gamer), and OCing my CPU till it's not too much of a bottleneck for my sli (hint hint I'm a gamer. Not a folder, or a graphics designer or a statistical data cruncher, therefore mega CPU OCs don't interest me)

What do you guys think I should do?


----------



## Citra

Lol, EK WC KIT with 120mm rad=199.99
XSPC RASA WC KIT with RX360 rAD=199.9

Something wrong? xD


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


Lol, EK WC KIT with 120mm rad=199.99
XSPC RASA WC KIT with RX360 rAD=199.9

Something wrong? xD


I wonder if the EK kits are really that much better.

Thanks guys for the advice on the fans, I am thinking about getting some 5400RPM GT's and putting them on a fan controller.


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Thanks guys for the advice on the fans, I am thinking about getting some 5400RPM GT's and putting them on a fan controller.


5400 RPM :O Please post some pics after


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


5400 RPM :O Please post some pics after










I can't wait to have a computer that makes my ears bleed. LOL.

not many people know about the 5400RPM models.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...-31.html#blank


----------



## Jonesey I7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


I can't wait to have a computer that makes my ears bleed. LOL.

not many people know about the 5400RPM models.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...-31.html#blank


Why not get on the list here for the 2150rpm models, with no fan controller?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7*


Why not get on the list here for the 2150rpm models, with no fan controller?


because I can have fans that are complete overkill on a fan controller. So I always have an option to ramp up my fan speed instead of being limited to the max speed of the fan.

i would much rather buy a fan that is too much and ramp it down, then buy one that isn't fast enough and wish it went faster.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


I can't wait to have a computer that makes my ears bleed. LOL.

not many people know about the 5400RPM models.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...-31.html#blank


They are cheaper over at Jab Tech
http://www.jab-tech.com/Scythe-Gentl...1-pr-4783.html

What are the RPM range on the 5400's? Anything over 1500 rpm's will be what I consider almost silent, well at least my GT-15's(1850 rpm's)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


They are cheaper over at Jab Tech
http://www.jab-tech.com/Scythe-Gentl...1-pr-4783.html

What are the RPM range on the 5400's? Anything over 1500 rpm's will be what I consider almost silent, well at least my GT-15's(1850 rpm's)


wait what do you mean what is the RPM range? Do you mean like how low do they go? They go up to 5400 RPM. I can't even hear the stock fans on my rad, so if they get louder I still won't hear them.

How loud are the stock fans on the RS360? My computer is in my dorm room, so I can't hear my computer at all.


----------



## thrasherht

I just looked up a video and it appears as if the fan will go pretty low when you have a controller.

  
 You Tube


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


wait what do you mean what is the RPM range? Do you mean like how low do they go? They go up to 5400 RPM. I can't even hear the stock fans on my rad, so if they get louder I still won't hear them.

How loud are the stock fans on the RS360? My computer is in my dorm room, so I can't hear my computer at all.


I was asking what is the lowest rpm's on them, at 5400 rpm's they will be at 50.5dBA and you will here that.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


I was asking what is the lowest rpm's on them, at 5400 rpm's they will be at 50.5dBA and you will here that.


Yea i know they will be loud at full speed, but with a controller they get pretty low speed. I just looked at a video and they get near silent.


----------



## Espair

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Nice and welcome to the neighborhood!!! Yeah... seems like the fish tank noise is a bit on the normal side. My replacement res/pump assembly is starting in on it as well. It's nothing bad and my wife's nagging is worse so I know I can live with it easily.

Come summer though I may be making a change in the pump/res though.


Thanks!! Yeah Im starting to not even notice it now, fan controller helps loads to keep the noise down thankfully









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


"Add me"

I've also noticed the pump has a very slight rattle, but still runs fine. I guess that's how I'll know the pumps running, LOL!


What are you using for coolant? I love that color you have!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Espair*


Thanks!! Yeah Im starting to not even notice it now, fan controller helps loads to keep the noise down thankfully









What are you using for coolant? I love that color you have!


Dye in your cooling system is bad. You should only use distilled water and a biocide. Nothing else.


----------



## Balsagna

How do you drain the kit? I have an antec 1200 and don't know an easy way without losing fluid all over my components


----------



## Espair

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Dye in your cooling system is bad. You should only use distilled water and a biocide. Nothing else.


Started reading this only after I bought some feser stuff. :x is it really that bad?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Balsagna*


How do you drain the kit? I have an antec 1200 and don't know an easy way without losing fluid all over my components


I hear you find the lowest point in your loop and let gravity do its job. If having dye is really truly bad I might need to drain and replace with water too, I hope not though


----------



## Spykerv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Espair;12266059*
> Started reading this only after I bought some feser stuff. :x is it really that bad?
> 
> I hear you find the lowest point in your loop and let gravity do its job. If having dye is really truly bad I might need to drain and replace with water too, I hope not though


Gunks up pump or rad. No bueno. And has no beneficial thermal properties. It's better to buy UV colored tubing by Primochill or Primoflex


----------



## Spykerv

Guys, I think I might have a happy medium. For less than $400 I could purchase the
XSPC rasa rs 240 for a cpu only loop. Then prepare for the gpu's by getting the rx480, MCP355, XSPC 5.25 res, primoflex white 1/2ID tubing, fittings/barbs, 7 high speed yates, and a fan controller for less than $400 after 5% coupon. Woot success.


----------



## ErBall

I just got done re-doing my loop, AGAIN.

I finally took the time to dismantle my block, and had some very very serious gunky buildup. This loop was only running distilled and kill coil. It was to the point that I'm positive it was detrimentally affecting my temps. I also went through and bought a proper pump.

I had two dead x20's in a row, and was not about to take a gamble on a third, so I ponied up and bought a mcp355 and xspc bay reservoir . Well the long and the short of it is that the new loop is finally setup as it should be. It is completely quiet, and the temps have improved quite a bit. I'm sure the majority of it is a clean block, but a stronger pump can't hurt.

I got a lot of feedback telling me that I made a wrong choice on my pump, but this thing is DEAD silent. I seriously can't hear it even with all my fans set @ 5v.


----------



## QD Spaz

Kind of a stupid question you guys would probably be ok at helping me find out...I really want this kit but I don't know if it would fit into my Thermaltake Armor+ MX case. Anyone know if it would? Thanks


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;12266509*
> I just got done re-doing my loop, AGAIN.
> 
> I finally took the time to dismantle my block, and had some very very serious gunky buildup. This loop was only running distilled and kill coil. It was to the point that I'm positive it was detrimentally affecting my temps. I also went through and bought a proper pump.
> 
> I had two dead x20's in a row, and was not about to take a gamble on a third, so I ponied up and bought a mcp355 and xspc bay reservoir . Well the long and the short of it is that the new loop is finally setup as it should be. It is completely quiet, and the temps have improved quite a bit. I'm sure the majority of it is a clean block, but a stronger pump can't hurt.
> 
> I got a lot of feedback telling me that I made a wrong choice on my pump, but this thing is DEAD silent. I seriously can't hear it even with all my fans set @ 5v.


Gunk must have been from the radiator. I'll be swapping out hoses for Primochill UV hoses soon, so I can get a chance to flush out the system since the 1st build. I can see super tiny specs of stuff every now and then in the coolant that wasn't there before.


----------



## Espair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12265867*
> Dye in your cooling system is bad. You should only use distilled water and a biocide. Nothing else.


Just bought some killcoils.Distilled water from the grocery store should do the trick right, dont need some fancy expensive stuff from online do I? Also, just a killcoil will do, I dont need the nuke stuff too right?

Bah, kinda sucks, I looked around quite a lot before doing this setup idk how I missed the distilled over coolant issue, wasted some money there that coulda gone towards a new LED fan









At least I caught it early, I doubt I have buildup of any kind.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Espair;12266808*
> Just bought some killcoils.Distilled water from the grocery store should do the trick right, dont need some fancy expensive stuff from online do I? Also, just a killcoil will do, I dont need the nuke stuff too right?
> 
> Bah, kinda sucks, I looked around quite a lot before doing this setup idk how I missed the distilled over coolant issue, wasted some money there that coulda gone towards a new LED fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least I caught it early, I doubt I have buildup of any kind.


Killcoil will be fine.


----------



## wermad

Didn't know xspc made 1/2x3/4 compression fittings








http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=30115


----------



## hot120

Good catch! Typing too fast! I meant 23c ambient. Attached is a screen shot of a quick IBT run at stock. Thoughts? Any help is appreciated!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;12263589*
> yikes, 73C? ambients? thats hot!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 73F I think


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QD Spaz;12266634*
> Kind of a stupid question you guys would probably be ok at helping me find out...I really want this kit but I don't know if it would fit into my Thermaltake Armor+ MX case. Anyone know if it would? Thanks


I dont know what the top of that case looks like as far as mounting a radiator but if it's a no go you could remove HDD cages and mount it there in the drive bays. It takes a little over 6 bays for a 240 radiator and 2 more for the res/pump.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QD Spaz;12266634*
> Kind of a stupid question you guys would probably be ok at helping me find out...I really want this kit but I don't know if it would fit into my Thermaltake Armor+ MX case. Anyone know if it would? Thanks


The armor has a mounting on the front for a thermaltake 240. Though that rad is a bit less thicker than the RS240. Measure first before buying. The armor has decent amount of space to mount it inside or go external.

Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)

edit:

Yes, I bought this from TT, I have learned my lesson (wc stuff







). The case is nice though









http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1125&ID=1888


----------



## bennieboi6969

hey i have radiator coolant in my loop is that a good idea? its got distilled water diluting it


----------



## M0E

I think I asked this in the wrong thread earlier, but is 1 RX240 enough rad for 3 GPU? No CPU.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

what gpus but it probly will they might be around 50c tho my 5870 never gets to 40c with it in the loop with a cpu.


----------



## M0E

GPUs in Sig Rig


----------



## Bal3Wolf

well those gpus should be able to be handled by a rx240 the 6870s probly put out about as much heat as my 5870 and the 460 is cool runing card.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0E;12268049*
> GPUs in Sig Rig


ah, the 460 is not in dire need of water, i would skip that imo. The RX240 will work ok w/ two 68xx.

btw, if you are going w/ water on all three and are considering the ek blocks, don't think about using the ek sli/crossfire bridge, you can't mix up different gpu blocks with it, plus the amd/ati links are different than the geforce links, just an fyi


----------



## M0E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12268097*
> ah, the 460 is not in dire need of water, i would skip that imo. The RX240 will work ok w/ two 68xx.
> 
> btw, if you are going w/ water on all three and are considering the ek blocks, don't think about using the ek sli/crossfire bridge, you can't mix up different gpu blocks with it, plus the amd/ati links are different than the geforce links, just an fyi


Big thanks for the advise on the links! I was thinking about using them.


----------



## M0E

Sorry for the Iphone pic, but here is an idea of the 2 setups I think I can make work with the existing case.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0E;12268108*
> Big thanks for the advise on the links! I was thinking about using them.


you can use the sli/crossfire block and links on the amd/ati cards. again, the gtx 460 does not need water, especially if its just a physx card.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12267914*
> hey i have radiator coolant in my loop is that a good idea? its got distilled water diluting it


It won't hurt anything because guys use car antifreeze all the time for loops, it just cuts down on your cooling performance. I would say dump it and put straight distilled water and a kill coil since you have all copper in the loop.


----------



## bennieboi6969

where can i get 1 from?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12267914*
> hey i have radiator coolant in my loop is that a good idea? its got distilled water diluting it


You can use auto coolant, but keep the ratio at 9 or 8 parts water to 1 part coolant. I only use G12 coolant since I have tons of it. Keeps me from buying other additives to prevent corrosion or biological build up. Straight water will offer more cooling efficiency, but at a 9 to 1 ratio, its not that crucial unless your really pushing it. I cannot vouch for other coolants other than G12 or G11. I prefer G12 for its higher PH over G11 and since I use RO/DI water. I need a higher PH coolant to offset the lower PH RO/DI water.


----------



## RonB94GT

Whats the differance between the Rasa and Delta kit as the Delta has a cheaper price?


----------



## bennieboi6969

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;12269712*
> Whats the differance between the Rasa and Delta kit as the Delta has a cheaper price?


the cpu blocks

here towards the bottom it has the difference between the blocks

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/749693-review-22-cpu-waterblocks-tested-roundup.html


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12269802*
> the cpu blocks
> 
> here towards the bottom it has the difference between the blocks
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/749693-review-22-cpu-waterblocks-tested-roundup.html


Thanks rep. I just read the Delta doesn't cool quiet as well.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12269347*
> You can use auto coolant, but keep the ratio at 9 or 8 parts water to 1 part coolant. I only use G12 coolant since I have tons of it. Keeps me from buying other additives to prevent corrosion or biological build up. Straight water will offer more cooling efficiency, but at a 9 to 1 ratio, its not that crucial unless your really pushing it. I cannot vouch for other coolants other than G12 or G11. I prefer G12 for its higher PH over G11 and since I use RO/DI water. I need a higher PH coolant to offset the lower PH RO/DI water.


Hey... Am curious though. Not knocking the idea about auto + water coolant. Am an auto buff as well (Alfa Romeos are my thing) and know the value of a good coolant.

Am wondering though, how long have you been using such a mixture and if you have ever disassembled your CPU water block to inspect it and see if by any chance there is any buildup.


----------



## ErBall

I believe I am finally done.

What started off as a bone stock rx360 kit has ended up as this:










MCP355 pump in XSPC bay res
primochill 7/16
Bitspower 1/2 barbs
distilled + kill coil
EK GTX 580 block

I just need my gentle typhoons and sleeving and I'm done.


----------



## mbudden

Time to start sleeving








but it sure does look good.


----------



## bennieboi6969

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;12273686*
> I believe I am finally done.
> 
> What started off as a bone stock rx360 kit has ended up as this:
> 
> MCP355 pump in XSPC bay res
> primochill 7/16
> Bitspower 1/2 barbs
> distilled + kill coil
> EK GTX 580 block
> 
> I just need my gentle typhoons and sleeving and I'm done.


nice clean setup u have there


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErBall;12273686*
> I believe I am finally done.
> 
> ??? It looks like you have outlet from Pump to GPU then to CPU. Putting all that heat into your CPU doesn't seem like a good idea.


----------



## mbudden

Or it could be the other way. Just can't really tell.


----------



## Citra

@mbudden

Did you add the link for the RX240 at dazmode.com yet since a lot people use/want it?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12274670*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ErBall;12273686*
> I believe I am finally done.
> 
> ??? It looks like you have outlet from Pump to GPU then to CPU. Putting all that heat into your CPU doesn't seem like a good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I doesn't matter that much because at a certain point the water circulating around comes to a happy medium temp, so it doesn't matter what order it is in, it all gets the same temp water.
Click to expand...


----------



## ErBall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12274670*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ErBall;12273686*
> I believe I am finally done.
> 
> ??? It looks like you have outlet from Pump to GPU then to CPU. Putting all that heat into your CPU doesn't seem like a good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not using the x20 pump that comes with that kit. Honestly the pump itself i garbage. I am using a mcp355 with a different xspc bay res. the intel and outlet of the pump itself has changed orientation. I assure you that my looper orders is as follows: pump ---> rad ---> cpu ---> gpu --->pump
> 
> 2600k @ 4.6ghz with 1.35v loads around 55c and gpu doesn't crack 38c @ 800 core.
Click to expand...


----------



## Spykerv

Lul I have a lot of questions







and almost enough money to buy the rx360 kit. Was wondering the x20 pump can handle two (360) rads? Would the restriction be too much?


----------



## Buzzin92

Just a question if someone could kindly answer







Will the RX360 fit in the top of a CM690 II without any major mods? I know it only fits 2 fans at the top but iv been told it could be done. Just asking here if anyone has done it









*EDIT: I meant the RS360 not the RX







*


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spykerv;12275990*
> Lul I have a lot of questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and almost enough money to buy the rx360 kit. Was wondering the x20 pump can handle two (360) rads? Would the restriction be too much?


The X20 does best with low restriction loops, so it depends on the radiators. They are not all the same and some are more restrictive than others.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spykerv;12275990*
> Lul I have a lot of questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and almost enough money to buy the rx360 kit. Was wondering the x20 pump can handle two (360) rads? Would the restriction be too much?


rads usaly arent a problem and if you stick with rs or rx ones you will be fine tho watch what gpu and cpu blocks you use no more then 2 gpus and 1 cpu and keep the loop short because the x20 only has 6.5 feet of head presure.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12273684*
> Hey... Am curious though. Not knocking the idea about auto + water coolant. Am an auto buff as well (Alfa Romeos are my thing) and know the value of a good coolant.
> 
> Am wondering though, how long have you been using such a mixture and if you have ever disassembled your CPU water block to inspect it and see if by any chance there is any buildup.


I'll be taking it apart in a few weeks. It hasn't ran on G12 coolant very long, but I will be checking to see if any anything shows up. I mixed the coolant in a Pyrex container using pure water (RO/DI-5 way filtered), so any build up will be from the coolant itself or the radiator (coolant was never replaced since system was put together)


----------



## bennieboi6969

do any of u guys get condensation in ya res?


----------



## bennieboi6969

these http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=4789 are quite good for mounting all i did was drilled out the holes on the rasa plate a bit bigger and the screws fit through minus the springs


----------



## amantonas

Yeah.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12278550*
> do any of u guys get condensation in ya res?


You CANT get condensation unless your water temps is a lot lower then the air temp and only way that would happen is if you have the rad outside or are using a tec or a chiller.


----------



## bennieboi6969

kul so its not just me then


----------



## bennieboi6969

heres a pic of the setup and the res and screen cap of temps. according to the radio its 30 degrees here


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ouch you used dyes in your loop you will regret those later when it gunks up your block and stains the lines and res. And thats not codensation thats just where bubbles are sticking to the walls of the res mine did that till i had all the air out.


----------



## Spykerv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12278629*
> You CANT get condensation unless your water temps is a lot lower then the air temp and only way that would happen is if you have the rad outside or are using a tec or a chiller.


Or a slushbox. I plan to use one when getting Boints.


----------



## bennieboi6969

its not dye its radiator coolant. the bubbles are in the coolant but above the coolant is condensation not air bubbles


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12279017*
> its not dye its radiator coolant. the bubbles are in the coolant but above the coolant is condensation not air bubbles


I have the same condensation in my reservoir. You can fill the reservoir up more also. Looks a tad low IMO.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12278777*
> Ouch you used dyes in your loop you will regret those later when it gunks up your block and stains the lines and res. And thats not codensation thats just where bubbles are sticking to the walls of the res mine did that till i had all the air out.


his picture does show condensation. You have to remember that in order for condensation to be formed, there has to be a temp difference, in this case, the water in the loop is much warmer then then the outside, so it is evaporating and collecting on the top of the res, it is completely normal.

Go sit a water bottle in the sun for a few hours, it will turn into what looks like a small eco system. Actually that is exactly what it is doing, same thing our environment does with water and rain, Just on a very small scale. Evaporates, collects up top, and then comes back down.


----------



## bennieboi6969

thats what i thought it was just wanted clarification from you guys!









my old thermaltake res never had this but i guess it wasnt sealed lol


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


his picture does show condensation. You have to remember that in order for condensation to be formed, there has to be a temp difference, in this case, the water in the loop is much warmer then then the outside, so it is evaporating and collecting on the top of the res, it is completely normal.

Go sit a water bottle in the sun for a few hours, it will turn into what looks like a small eco system. Actually that is exactly what it is doing, same thing our environment does with water and rain, Just on a very small scale. Evaporates, collects up top, and then comes back down.


true didnt thk of tht thats why you need to keep the res full lol wont have that problem any more. Lol i just reinjured my back so probly not thinking 100% clear in alot of dang pain it sucks.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


true didnt thk of tht thats why you need to keep the res full lol wont have that problem any more. Lol i just reinjured my back so probly not thinking 100% clear in alot of dang pain it sucks.


It isn't really a problem, its just what happens when you have heated water inside a closed system.


----------



## For Victory

I was thinking of getting a 360 kit and adding in better tubing and barbs, since a few reviews I read said the tubing and barbs were the weakest links. Anyone have any advice on this? Thank you.


----------



## mbudden

How could barbs be a weak link? They just sit allow you to attach hoses to. Tubing is fine as well, but it's not top of the line. It's just clear. If you want colored tubing, then go with Primochill tubing.


----------



## leighteam

does the 240mm rad fit the top of the haf 922 correctly? i want to mount it internally...
thanks


----------



## For Victory

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


How could barbs be a weak link? They just sit allow you to attach hoses to. Tubing is fine as well, but it's not top of the line. It's just clear. If you want colored tubing, then go with Primochill tubing.


The review said the stock tubing was really stiff. Also, will the XSPC 750 rx360 kit be all I need if I go for SLI GTX 580s? The cpu is a core i7 930.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *For Victory*


I was thinking of getting a 360 kit and adding in better tubing and barbs, since a few reviews I read said the tubing and barbs were the weakest links. Anyone have any advice on this? Thank you.


Well your review waset very good then because i orignaly got me some ek high flow barbs and my primochill tubing can be pulled off them but the xspc barbs i cant the tubing is so tight i gota cut it off. The tubing could be better in the kit but at the price its fine only weak link is the pump but it will work fine for a cpu and gpu loop.


----------



## mbudden

Searching does wonders.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...haf-922-a.html


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leighteam*


does the 240mm rad fit the top of the haf 922 correctly? i want to mount it internally...
thanks


yes the 240 will fit and your case should have pre drilled holes too


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *For Victory*


The review said the stock tubing was really stiff. Also, will the XSPC 750 rx360 kit be all I need if I go for SLI GTX 580s? The cpu is a core i7 930.


Eh.... Not sure. SLI Fermi's would be pushing it. The weak link would be water blocks.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *For Victory*


The review said the stock tubing was really stiff. Also, will the XSPC 750 rx360 kit be all I need if I go for SLI GTX 580s? The cpu is a core i7 930.


the tubing that comes with the kit is stiff,but no need to buy new barbs,i recommend primochill tubing.


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *For Victory*


I was thinking of getting a 360 kit and adding in better tubing and barbs, since a few reviews I read said the tubing and barbs were the weakest links. Anyone have any advice on this? Thank you.


yeah no idea how barbs can be weak

midn showing us the few reviews?

tubing i would say replace asap. they turn milky


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leighteam*


does the 240mm rad fit the top of the haf 922 correctly? i want to mount it internally...
thanks


Having the HAF 922 and the Asus CHIV mobo, the most I would feel comfortable with is a rad + fan combo not exceeding about 1-15/16 inches (49.2125 mm) clearance. 2 inches (50.8 mm) may still work but you will have problems flipping open the RAM lock clips. This of course may/could vary from mobo to mobo.

RS240 Rad is 35mm + 25mm = 60mm

RX240 Rad is 63mm + 25mm = 88mm

Either way I feel it's not a comfortable fit for an internal top mount with fans. I have seen some installations where the rad in internally mounted and the fans are externally mounted. This would allow for plenty of room for the ram sticks but you need to figure if you like the fans externally mounted or not. With the included grills, they would look fine IMO.

Once again, mobo ram location plays a part in the issue.


----------



## nicksasa

I ordered the RS360 kit









But is there an amd backplate included or what ?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


I ordered the RS360 kit









But is there an amd backplate included or what ?


No. But you can mod the stock one yourself. Link in the OP.


----------



## nicksasa

Maybe a stupid question, but is a back plate needed ? DOn't know if i have the correct drill, but Ill figure something out.


----------



## mbudden

Not really, but some people said it keeps from bending the board. But I don't see how it would bend the board much without it.


----------



## ttaylor0024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12286101*
> Maybe a stupid question, but is a back plate needed ? DOn't know if i have the correct drill, but Ill figure something out.


Simply put- If you dont have a backplate on, the block will fall off.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12286101*
> Maybe a stupid question, but is a back plate needed ? DOn't know if i have the correct drill, but Ill figure something out.


It's not needed, but recommended. If you use it, it doesn't bend your board under stress as much.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12286101*
> Maybe a stupid question, but is a back plate needed ? DOn't know if i have the correct drill, but Ill figure something out.


Yes. It helps distribute the pressure of the screws to a much wider area and not just the holes on the mobo. You could probably get away with not using a backplate but then make sure you use the correct pressure... which would be hard to determine in my opinion. You also lessen the risk of cracking/breaking your mobo by using a backplate as well.


----------



## smash_mouth01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12286122*
> Simply put- If you dont have a backplate on, the block will fall off.


No that is what the bolts are for, for holding the block on.

Also for anyone with AMD, EK do make universal backplates so grab one of them.

Also I am tossing up the idea of grabbing a RS360 rasa kit for my gpu's, I have a pair of gpu blocks already.

Would a RS240 kit do a pair of 6870's or is that really pushing it? Or should I get the 360 ?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12286122*
> Simply put- If you dont have a backplate on, the block will fall off.


.... No.


----------



## smash_mouth01

I just had a look at his moniker "Console Gamer". It says it all.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12286122*
> Simply put- If you dont have a backplate on, the block will fall off.


lol,i'm not using a backplate


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12286122*
> Simply put- If you dont have a backplate on, the block will fall off.


Um no 100% wrong the kit comes with bolts to go thru the mounting holes or you can get a backplate or mod one to work with the block.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smash_mouth01;12286182*
> No that is what the bolts are for, for holding the block on.
> 
> Also for anyone with AMD, EK do make universal backplates so grab one of them.
> 
> Also I am tossing up the idea of grabbing a RS360 rasa kit for my gpu's, I have a pair of gpu blocks already.
> 
> Would a RS240 kit do a pair of 6870's or is that really pushing it? Or should I get the 360 ?


Look in the OP, yours truely did a mod on the stock amd backplate.

i don't know how many people noticed, the AMD stock plate is really heavy duty.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;12286122*
> Simply put- If you dont have a backplate on, the block will fall off.


I am glad that we have a world class engineer in here telling us how bolts no longer work for their intended purpose.


----------



## nicksasa

Hmm, guess i'll search my old backplate and get my dremel & screwdriver when it arrives.

Too bad the shop i ordered at didn't have any colored 7/16 tubing. Oh well, might get some white 1/2 later.


----------



## smash_mouth01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12286540*
> Look in the OP, yours truely did a mod on the stock amd backplate.
> 
> i don't know how many people noticed, the AMD stock plate is really heavy duty.


Yeah I saw that







+1 for a great guide , but unfortunately I don't want to wreck any of my two back plates, I have one for my test bed and one for my home PC and I would like to be able to switch back if I needed to. But I am thinking of just buying one of these

HERE

For $2.00 it's a no loss situation.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12286570*
> Hmm, guess i'll search my old backplate and get my dremel & screwdriver when it arrives.
> 
> Too bad the shop i ordered at didn't have any colored 7/16 tubing. Oh well, might get some white 1/2 later.


I used a drill press to do my drilling over backplate, but really since there are already holes, the drills is already guided into the hole straight.

If you guys don't want to mod a backplate you have, you can get one online for 2 dollars.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&ds=pr&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=am3+backplate&cp=13&qe=YW0zIGJhY2twbGF0ZQ&qesig=nhH1nIlIGheg3zLe_6CMDg&pkc=AFgZ2tkd2_Er6pm1ZRy9bwzA93dfFwGp9IW0_V9PDLBwCZCA6S_bt-2JSBZRIhSu1Gfjr3Oa5to0Vld_62eMmqpPi2vKbpUVmQ&safe=off&biw=1280&bih=685&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=14284946933701191603&ei=JR1PTanLMIjWtQO2j-z-Cg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=1&sqi=2&ved=0CFYQ8wIwAA#


----------



## tnaz71

How noisy is the pump suppose to be? I just got him installed yesterday, ran it all night got all the air out and this thing is extremely noisy. Like I can hear it if I walk out of my room noisy.. I would understand a bit of noise but I just don't think this is right..

Here is a short video of the noise. Please let me know if this is normal or If I need to contact someone.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpWOqLEu5I8[/ame]


----------



## thrasherht

Send that video to XSPC and inside a week they will have a new pump to you.


----------



## mbudden

Might want to check for more bubbles. I highly doubt XSPC's failure rate is this high.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12286956*
> Might want to check for more bubbles. I highly doubt XSPC's failure rate is this high.


I think the x20 pumps that are put with the kits just aren't checked that well for function the way other pumps are.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12286972*
> I think the x20 pumps that are put with the kits just aren't checked that well for function the way other pumps are.


You might be right. I suggest him to leave it for a little while, I know it took almost a day for it to become silent after I drained and refilled my loop. First time I installed it, it took like 5 mins.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12287005*
> You might be right. I suggest him to leave it for a little while, I know it took almost a day for it to become silent after I drained and refilled my loop. First time I installed it, it took like 5 mins.


My pump was never that loud, even with bubbles in it. I say shake the living hell out of it and see if some of the bubbles come out. Fill it as full as possible first.


----------



## tnaz71

Thanks guys, Ya I have shaken everything to the extreme, taken the res out and shaken that till I am about to pass out lol. I had it running all night to make sure of no leaks and it wasn't very loud, but over the course of the day today it has just been getting louder and louder.

In case it is not better by tomorrow who do I contact? I found this so assuming this is the right place http://www.xspc.biz/contact.php


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tnaz71;12287542*
> Thanks guys, Ya I have shaken everything to the extreme, taken the res out and shaken that till I am about to pass out lol. I had it running all night to make sure of no leaks and it wasn't very loud, but over the course of the day today it has just been getting louder and louder.
> 
> In case it is not better by tomorrow who do I contact? I found this so assuming this is the right place http://www.xspc.biz/contact.php


You use that link to contact XSPC. You should get a reply from Dazhong.
This thing is with these pumps is that they appear to be aquarium pumps. I've dealt with noisy pumps due to something being in the impeller, but since you can't open these up, you really can't do much to clean or re-position the impeller


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tnaz71;12287542*
> Thanks guys, Ya I have shaken everything to the extreme, taken the res out and shaken that till I am about to pass out lol. I had it running all night to make sure of no leaks and it wasn't very loud, but over the course of the day today it has just been getting louder and louder.
> 
> In case it is not better by tomorrow who do I contact? I found this so assuming this is the right place http://www.xspc.biz/contact.php


Make a video and explain to them everything you have done. That's the e-mail to contact.


----------



## thrasherht

Here guys, I made a video of the pump I first got with my kit, I got it replaced because it was cracked.

here is a picture of the crack along with the video.








[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Yn9QqbN0gg[/ame]


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12289340*
> Here guys, I made a video of the pump I first got with my kit, I got it replaced because it was cracked.
> 
> here is a picture of the crack along with the video.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Yn9QqbN0gg


That pump is quiet. Mine has minor chattering. Sounds like a hard drive running during read/writes.


----------



## thrasherht

Its funny, I get one of the few so called silent pumps that is actually silent, and it is cracked. I have a new one in my rig now, not as quiet, but I still can't hear it over the rest of my computer. Only when i turn down my fans.


----------



## ezveedub

I'm going to take my reservoir/pump out and give it a shakin'







. It was quiet on the first 2-3days, then it developed the chattering sound.









If that don't work, may I'll hit it up with compressed air.


----------



## tnaz71

Thanks guys, I went ahead and tossed them a email, he responded really quick and asked for the video. I sent it to him now I guess I just wait. It's so noisy that my wife has asked me to turn off the computer because it's driving her insane.. haha so ya hopefully I will hear something back from them tomorrow.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12286870*
> Send that video to XSPC and inside a week they will have a new pump to you.


pfft. seems like they like to ignore me. After quite a few emails telling them i have a bad pump- it seems like dazhong doesnt want to respond anymore. either that or the button for NA/UK support sent me to China and the reason why im not getting any response ( been about 1-2weeks now ) is cause of chinese new year.


----------



## mbudden

Shoot them another email from another address?


----------



## tnaz71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12290042*
> pfft. seems like they like to ignore me. After quite a few emails telling them i have a bad pump- it seems like dazhong doesnt want to respond anymore. either that or the button for NA/UK support sent me to China and the reason why im not getting any response ( been about 1-2weeks now ) is cause of chinese new year.


Hmm, when I just submitted mine It said

XSPC ASIA
North America and Asia

That is the one I hit and got a reply within minutes.


----------



## Liighthead

:/ any 1 have any leak problems with the rs360?
my rez has a slow leak.. been useing it on 2nd rig.. not sigrig happy with it








but anyways yeh :/

and rad come with a like row of bent fins.. guessing ya carnt get that replaced?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12290042*
> pfft. seems like they like to ignore me. After quite a few emails telling them i have a bad pump- it seems like dazhong doesnt want to respond anymore. either that or the button for NA/UK support sent me to China and the reason why im not getting any response ( been about 1-2weeks now ) is cause of chinese new year.


I believe it is Chinese New Years and most are on holiday's in China right now. That "may" be a reason for delays. They celebrate for a whole week and I think it started last week or so, not sure.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12293426*
> I believe it is Chinese New Years and most are on holiday's in China right now. That "may" be a reason for delays. They celebrate for a whole week and I think it started last week or so, not sure.


Yeah i know, i am chinese =D

but i shall send another request from a ninja email.
but overall, they're annoying me. But oh well, gave up and bought a laing + xspc res top for it hahah. Oh the hypocrisy!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;12291662*
> :/ any 1 have any leak problems with the rs360?
> my rez has a slow leak.. been useing it on 2nd rig.. not sigrig happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but anyways yeh :/
> 
> and rad come with a like row of bent fins.. guessing ya carnt get that replaced?


I haven't heard of any leak issues from anyone on here. Been smooth sailing, mostly just pump issues. If your rad had bent pins from shipping, I would have taken pictures and sent a email immediately to whomever you bought it from.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12293829*
> I haven't heard of any leak issues from anyone on here. Been smooth sailing, mostly just pump issues. If your rad had bent pins from shipping, I would have taken pictures and sent a email immediately to whomever you bought it from.


yeh i did tookem... a while to get back to me. then they just said contact the company we cannot do anything about it..

but carnt put rig back together.. as i said its my 2nd rig. not main rig so still have a comp.

but its sitting their with a rez thats leaking where it goes in :/ faily slow leak but dont wanna risk $500+ worth of gear lol depeding what it hits


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12293484*
> But oh well, gave up and bought a laing + xspc res top for it hahah. Oh the hypocrisy!


I will be doing this myself shortly... ;-)


----------



## Wess

Well I was interested in having the Rasa Uber 750 RX360 from DazMode. They dont offer pick-up so that was a turn off for me TBH. I stay in Toronto and makes no sense to pay shipping from a store that's on the same town! any alternatives fellow Canadians? Or any other online store that service Canada?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I will be doing this myself shortly... ;-)


Same, but only after I start going towards GPU cooling as well.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wess*


Well I was interested in having the Rasa Uber 750 RX360 from DazMode. They dont offer pick-up so that was a turn off for me TBH. I stay in Toronto and makes no sense to pay shipping from a store that's on the same town! any alternatives fellow Canadians? Or any other online store that service Canada?


I highly doubt that you'll find many shops that will allow pick up. You don't see too many companies in the states that allow this either. It's either pay shipping or don't get the product. I don't mind paying 9$ though


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wess*


Well I was interested in having the Rasa Uber 750 RX360 from DazMode. They dont offer pick-up so that was a turn off for me TBH. I stay in Toronto and makes no sense to pay shipping from a store that's on the same town! any alternatives fellow Canadians? Or any other online store that service Canada?


Can't seem to find any online water cooling store in Toronto other than DazMode


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Same, but only after I start going towards GPU cooling as well.









I highly doubt that you'll find many shops that will allow pick up. You don't see too many companies in the states that allow this either. It's either pay shipping or don't get the product. I don't mind paying 9$ though










frozencpu lets you pick up. I think even newegg might let you pick up some stuff.


----------



## Wess

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I don't mind paying 9$ though










I don't mind the shipping either, I just hate the fact taht in a city like Toronto (GTA) there is only 1 store that sells those goods! Ah well, I'll cool down in a couple of days and pay the $15 CAD for shipping from Toronto to Toronto


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


frozencpu lets you pick up. I think even newegg might let you pick up some stuff.


Yeah, but FrozenCPU is up in E. Rochester, NY. That's great if you live up there. I'm saying, now a days. There isn't many PC stores you can walk into and buy parts off the shelf.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Yeah, but FrozenCPU is up in E. Rochester, NY. That's great if you live up there. I'm saying, now a days. There isn't many PC stores you can walk into and buy parts off the shelf.


Well yea, but You said there aren't many stores. I was just saying one.

The only place I know of that sells water cooling parts is microcenter and possibly fry's


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12295585*
> Same, but only after I start going towards GPU cooling as well.


I plan on GPU cooling a bit down the line so I want the pump flow to be at it's best now. If I run into any problems with the pump, prefer it be now than when I am with new toy's (GPU's and such... may go SLI). Also helps spread out the cost a bit as well. Also (and I may be wrong on this?) but with summer coming ambient temps here get somewhat high for the old "Flux Capacitor" so I guess it would be some added and welcomed cooling.


----------



## jdpkeeper

I just got a rs240 kit, but was going to add my gpu(5850) into the loop as well as either an additional rs120 rad or a rs240. will the stock pump be ok?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpkeeper;12297315*
> I just got a rs240 kit, but was going to add my gpu(5850) into the loop as well as either an additional rs120 rad or a rs240. will the stock pump be ok?


I want to say you'd be fine, but I'm not too sure how hot the 5850's get.


----------



## jdpkeeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12297341*
> I want to say you'd be fine, but I'm not too sure how hot the 5850's get.


mine OC to 825/1100 gets max 71 on Furmark w/ autofan


----------



## Brutuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;12294678*
> yeh i did tookem... a while to get back to me. then they just said contact the company we cannot do anything about it..
> 
> but carnt put rig back together.. as i said its my 2nd rig. not main rig so still have a comp.
> 
> but its sitting their with a rez thats leaking where it goes in :/ faily slow leak but dont wanna risk $500+ worth of gear lol depeding what it hits


If its leaking where you put the water in, tighten the cap, I had the same problem.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpkeeper;12297401*
> mine OC to 825/1100 gets max 71 on Furmark w/ autofan


I use MSI Afterburner and set-up my own fan profile. With overclocks of 950 and 1.2 volts, my 5850 never goes above 69 C. There really is no need to watercool these unless you just don't like the fan noise when playing a game (I hardly notice mine).


----------



## tnaz71

Ok, so my wife is pissed about this noisy pump & refuses to let me turn on my computer while she is home.. I have yet to hear back from XSPC regarding if they are going to send me a new one or not.

I was thinking of just buying another pump/res if I don't hear from them in the next few days. If I did that should I just get the same thing (http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-X2O-750...p-pr-4728.html) or get another type of pump/res?

What are your thoughts?

Worse case is I have a back up for future failures or another build.


----------



## stew3360

tnaz71 said:


> Ok, so my wife is pissed about this noisy pump & refuses to let me turn on my computer while she is home..
> 
> Tell Heather to stay at a hotel while you get your game on?? lol


----------



## mbudden

If I was you, I'd be buying this 
http://www.jab-tech.com/Laing-DDC-3....n-pr-4464.html
& this
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic...e-pr-4549.html


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tnaz71*


Ok, so my wife is pissed about this noisy pump & refuses to let me turn on my computer while she is home.. I have yet to hear back from XSPC regarding if they are going to send me a new one or not.

I was thinking of just buying another pump/res if I don't hear from them in the next few days. If I did that should I just get the same thing (http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-X2O-750...p-pr-4728.html) or get another type of pump/res?

What are your thoughts?

Worse case is I have a back up for future failures or another build.


Definitely get this:
http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=756

and this:

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...oducts_id=1061

You won't ever need another pump.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


You won't ever need another pump.










Somewhat similar.


----------



## bennieboi6969

new upgrade


----------



## Wess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12306498*
> new upgrade


Good looking!









Funny thing is how you never see your GPU block lol, even worse in SLI/X-Fire ... next build I'll try to figure out a horizontal setup for the rig ... like a modded tech-station or something in that line.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12306498*
> new upgrade


Nice...

Are those unlit LED's (vertical row) at the edge of the 5.25" bays? I see you have led's illuminating the rest of the case interior. If so, I bet it lights up nicely!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wess;12313796*
> Good looking!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny thing is how you never see your GPU block lol, even worse in SLI/X-Fire ... next build I'll try to figure out a horizontal setup for the rig ... like a modded tech-station or something in that line.


I think you are looking for something like the silverstone raven case, it positions your motherboard so the video card connections are pointing up. There are also cases that position your motherboard so that your video cards are on the top instead of the bottom of the board, making your GPU block visible.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Weird lol I came here today and my res was half empty. Last night it was full lol where the hell did all that water go oh well I just refilled


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12316155*
> Weird lol I came here today and my res was half empty. Last night it was full lol where the hell did all that water go oh well I just refilled


Water Gremlins!!!


----------



## razr m3




----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12316168*
> Water Gremlins!!!


Lol I know its weird. I turn on my PC and I hear my pump trying to suck in water but instead it sucks in air and all the water from my water blocks and rad is empty well almost


----------



## lilraver018

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsra750rswak.html

select ups ground and it comes out to 122.49 for me,


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilraver018;12316378*
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsra750rswak.html
> 
> select ups ground and it comes out to 122.49 for me,


That is the Delta kit in link. Delta block isn't very good from what I've read.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgilmore62;12316811*
> That is the Delta kit in link. Delta block isn't very good from what I've read.


I agree. You want the RASA kit.


----------



## mbudden

RASA > Delta


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12295585*
> Same, but only after I start going towards GPU cooling as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I highly doubt that you'll find many shops that will allow pick up. You don't see too many companies in the states that allow this either. It's either pay shipping or don't get the product. I don't mind paying 9$ though


I live about 35-40 minutes from Koolance's headquarters in the Seattle area. Nothing gets any sweeter than that. Whenever the wife will allow me to spend more money on pc parts, I think I'll walk in to the Koolance store and pick up a couple of blocks for my 5870s.







I just need to bribe the wife first.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331;12319203*
> I live about 35-40 minutes from Koolance's headquarters in the Seattle area. Nothing gets any sweeter than that. Whenever the wife will allow me to spend more money on pc parts, I think I'll walk in to the Koolance store and pick up a couple of blocks for my 5870s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just need to bribe the wife first.


Candle light dinner... Movie... Roamantic walk.... Flowers... and there goes your PC parts budget.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12316251*
> Lol I know its weird. I turn on my PC and I hear my pump trying to suck in water but instead it sucks in air and all the water from my water blocks and rad is empty well almost


Joking aside, that is odd. Maybe you had one huge bubble somewhere (rad maybe) that finally dislodged itself. Is it a recurrent things? Have you checked everything inside the case to make sure it's all dry? Water won't evaporate that fast... it has to have gone somewhere.


----------



## Silomatic

What are some aftermarket fans you guys are using on your rads?


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silomatic*


What are some aftermarket fans you guys are using on your rads?


There are plenty to name depending on what u want.

25mm-

either Gentle Typhoons if you got the Moolah or
Yate loon High speed or any variation of it


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


There are plenty to name depending on what u want.

25mm-

either Gentle Typhoons if you got the Moolah or
Yate loon High speed or any variation of it


I personally slapped on some high speed 120x25mm Yate Loons and lowered the speed on them (cheap $10 fan controller). They are working great and are quiet. For $3.30/each I honestly can not and will not complain. Gonna paint the blades red and leave those for awhile until I feel I have the money to spend on GT's which I ultimately want.


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I personally slapped on some high speed 120x25mm Yate Loons and lowered the speed on them (cheap $10 fan controller). They are working great and are quiet. For $3.30/each I honestly can not and will not complain. Gonna paint the blades red and leave those for awhile until I feel I have the money to spend on GT's which I ultimately want.


Yeah i have both and i undervolt the yates and theyre reasonably quiet


----------



## Espair

(oh yeah, "add me" <- click for link to post with pics)

Hi again, so last I posted here I said I bought killcoils to replace my feser coolant with distilled water. Done and done, except the water has a slight pinkish tink to it now because of the feser coolant (it was like impossible to get ALL of it out). Its not going to do any harm is it?

I emptied the feser best i could, filled with distilled, ran pump, emptied again, and filled with more distilled and added 1 killcoil. I just want to make sure im not going to blow my cpu up :x

And I swear my case weighs about 40 pounds lol. Thanks!


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Espair*


Hi again, so last I posted here I said I bought killcoils to replace my feser coolant with distilled water. Done and done, except the water has a slight pinkish tink to it now because of the feser coolant (it was like impossible to get ALL of it out). Its not going to do any harm is it?

I emptied the feser best i could, filled with distilled, ran pump, emptied again, and filled with more distilled and added 1 killcoil. I just want to make sure im not going to blow my cpu up :x

And I swear my case weighs about 40 pounds lol. Thanks!


the pinkish color will be alright,just next time you clean your loop flush it out.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silomatic*


What are some aftermarket fans you guys are using on your rads?


I threw on two Thermal Take blue LED variable speed fans I had laying around. I adjusted their speeds the same as the stock one, at around 1750 RPM using the mini pot resistor it comes with. More for "show" right now through the case window.


----------



## Kick

you're fine. even though dyes and all that do clog up blocks, it's not necessarily going to make you run at like 90c all of a sudden.

Plus, you'll be draining and cleaning the loop every 6 months or so so nothing to worry about


----------



## Espair

Alright thanks, I kinda like the pinkish color anyway


----------



## nvous23

Received my RX360 kit yesterday and leak tested without issue. Put everything together and here are my results:

Idle:









Load:









Case:









Fans:









I thought I had put my fans as Intake when I was assembling everything but I can feel a lot of air coming up from the top of the case as if they are set to exhaust. I included a picture so you can see. If they are set to exhaust I will probably switch them around when I pull everything apart to install some GTs from the group buy.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nvous23*


Received my RX360 kit yesterday and leak tested without issue. Put everything together and here are my results:

I thought I had put my fans as Intake when I was assembling everything but I can feel a lot of air coming up from the top of the case as if they are set to exhaust. I included a picture so you can see. If they are set to exhaust I will probably switch them around when I pull everything apart to install some GTs from the group buy.


why does your sig say you have the phantom? lol.


----------



## nvous23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


why does your sig say you have the phantom? lol.


Old sig... Updated it just for you


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol this thread is huge.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Owning a RASA 750 setup makes a person a much friendlier individual! We should have a t-shirt that says:

"I have a RASA 750 - HUG ME!"


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nvous23*


Old sig... Updated it just for you










yay i feel special.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


lol this thread is huge.


That it is.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


That it is.










not as big as the 1,000,000 post thread. They are on page 1430, and this thread is only on page 190 for me.

http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/8...post-1430.html


----------



## Kahbrohn

But our conversations have substance... mostly. Over there I bet there is like 500 conversations all going on at the same time.

If I asked a question about my mobo, would I be OT over there???


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


not as big as the 1,000,000 post thread. They are on page 1430, and this thread is only on page 190 for me.

http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/8...post-1430.html


Well, I'm saying since it's began. It's quite large.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


But our conversations have substance... mostly. Over there I bet there is like 500 conversations all going on at the same time.

If I asked a question about my mobo, would I be OT over there???


If you asked a question about what cheese smelled like in space you would be OT. LOL.

that is very true though. they are just posting random stuff.


----------



## runeazn

does this packet cool good.
in comparison in a custom WC loop?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *runeazn*


does this packet cool good.
in comparison in a custom WC loop?


Depends on which one you get.
RS240/RS360
RX240/RX360


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *runeazn*


does this packet cool good.
in comparison in a custom WC loop?


yes it cools the same as a custom loop, because it is custom parts just packaged together. Plus the Rasa block is an extremely good block.


----------



## tnaz71

Thinking of adding my gpu to my loop but I only have the rs240 kit. What would be needed to add the gpu? I know the 360 would be ideal but I already have the 240 so maybe another 240, or a 120 rad? Will the pump supplied in the kit be enough for this set up? Would be 240 on bottom & the other on the top.

Thanks


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *runeazn*


does this packet cool good.
in comparison in a custom WC loop?


I cant say in comparison to other WC setups since this is my very first setup but so far it is great. The CPU block competes with the best of them coming in mostly in 2nd. or maybe even 3rd. place in the different reviews but by only 1*C difference.

Value is outstanding IMO.

Some things can be improved on but easily done so (e.g. tubing).

If the "kit" has a weak link, it's the present pump/res combo unit. It seems like several units have an issue with a rattling noise. I have been following up closely on this and I have it on good authority that the problem has been identified, it is in the process of being corrected but I have no information as to when it will be corrected (other than "soon"). I was promised to be notified of the correction and once I know I can advise then. The issue is not with the mechanical components though so the pump will not fail. That's all I think prudent to say at this time.

Others have gone with alternative pumps and res to good effect. All in all I do not think that this brand has anything to envy of the more pricier components out there. Other brands do look a lot better, granted, but all in all if you are like me, you are looking for the best cooling efficiency for the dollar.

Just my 2 centavos worth.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nvous23*


Received my RX360 kit yesterday and leak tested without issue. Put everything together and here are my results:

Fans:









I thought I had put my fans as Intake when I was assembling everything but I can feel a lot of air coming up from the top of the case as if they are set to exhaust. I included a picture so you can see. If they are set to exhaust I will probably switch them around when I pull everything apart to install some GTs from the group buy.


It looks like the fans are sucking air in, based off how the blades look in the picture. Easy way to know is to place piece of paper on top and see if it hovers or gets sucked onto the case. IMO, I think your pulling air into the case.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tnaz71;12323595*
> Thinking of adding my gpu to my loop but I only have the rs240 kit. What would be needed to add the gpu? I know the 360 would be ideal but I already have the 240 so maybe another 240, or a 120 rad? Will the pump supplied in the kit be enough for this set up? Would be 240 on bottom & the other on the top.
> 
> Thanks


The RS or RX 240? Makes a difference... If RX I think you could get away with adding a 120 to the loop. I'd have to read through the thread though since I know someone has answered this already awhile back (am at work and phone interrupts my thread surfing).

If RS then I think you may want to consider another 240. Not sure if RX though.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12323715*
> It looks like the fans are sucking air in, based off how the blades look in the picture. Easy way to know is to place piece of paper on top and see if it hovers or gets sucked onto the case. IMO, I think your pulling air into the case.


nice eye man.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvous23;12321933*
> I thought I had put my fans as Intake when I was assembling everything but I can feel a lot of air coming up from the top of the case as if they are set to exhaust. I included a picture so you can see. If they are set to exhaust I will probably switch them around when I pull everything apart to install some GTs from the group buy.


Positive its sucking air in. As stated, paper test it.


----------



## tnaz71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12323761*
> The RS or RX 240? Makes a difference... If RX I think you could get away with adding a 120 to the loop. I'd have to read through the thread though since I know someone has answered this already awhile back (am at work and phone interrupts my thread surfing).
> 
> If RS then I think you may want to consider another 240. Not sure if RX though.


ya the kit i have is a rs, I read on here that someone said adding a 120 would be good but it's not like the 240 is much more in cost, main thing I was curious about is if the pump would be ok, I am assuming it would since the rad is not restrictive.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tnaz71;12323915*
> ya the kit i have is a rs, I read on here that someone said adding a 120 would be good but it's not like the 240 is much more in cost, main thing I was curious about is if the pump would be ok, I am assuming it would since the rad is not restrictive.


The pump is the weak point in the kit. Later when I start GPU water cooling etc, I will be moving away and getting a different pump. But for right now, it's good enough.


----------



## runeazn

no i mean does it cool as good as mine?
sig riggy, sig for worklog.

if i replace it will it be par or better?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12324167*
> no i mean does it cool as good as mine?
> sig riggy, sig for worklog.
> 
> if i replace it will it be par or better?


Not sure if this would help you decide.

Here is a review on the water blocks.

Here is a review on the radiators.

Pump you already heard it was the weak link but it still holds it's own and does it's job.


----------



## wermad

I think the pump is good on the scale of average/good/excellent. Its comparable to the 655-B. I think the weakness in these kits is correlated to its greatest strength: quality...mediocre quality = lower price (its best attribute). my


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12325657*
> I think the pump is good on the scale of average/good/excellent. Its comparable to the 655-B. I think the weakness in these kits is correlated to its greatest strength: quality...mediocre quality = lower price (its best attribute). my


I agree with the scaling... Good.

I was able to pull a pump out of the reservoir and "open" it up (gently destroyed it in the process). The quality of the pump is good. It's the "power" of the pump I think that makes it mediocre to average but still more than adequate for a simple CPU loop. It starts to fall behind as you expand on the loop.

My







now makes 4 cents.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12325758*
> I agree with the scaling... Good.
> 
> I was able to pull a pump out of the reservoir and "open" it up (gently destroyed it in the process). The quality of the pump is good. It's the "power" of the pump I think that makes it mediocre to average but still more than adequate for a simple CPU loop. It starts to fall behind as you expand on the loop.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now makes 4 cents.


quick, someone add half an opinion to make a nickel


----------



## Jonesey I7

I OFFICIALLY HATE ASUS. Check sig for details.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonesey I7;12326035*
> I OFFICIALLY HATE ASUS. Check sig for details.


Sucks you had a bad ordeal but all my dealings have been good with asus even 2 rmas they both went fairly fast and i got working cards back. Card im using now is a rma that runs frigin great 1015/1370 can even do 1100/1400 for benchmarking.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12325844*
> quick, someone add half an opinion to make a nickel


rotflmbo!

Looking for someone with "half a mind"?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12326230*
> rotflmbo!
> 
> Looking for someone with "half a mind"?


most likely


----------



## Kahbrohn

Out of curiosity... has anyone made an acrylic shroud for their RS/RX 360? I need measurements to work with. Would hate having to take my rad off to get what I need (yeah, yeah, yeah... call me lazy).


----------



## yoyo711

I'm geting XSPC Rasa RS360 Kit Tomorrow with kill coil ^^


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;12326851*
> I'm geting XSPC Rasa RS360 Kit Tomorrow with kill coil ^^


Nice!


----------



## sub7m19

So i am really interested in getting one of these kits but would i get better performance in just making a custom kit? My budget is about $200-230 US dollars. I simply want a cpu loop for my hot ass **** quadcore @ 3.2 with v1.4.. and maybe to be able to add a gpu. Which one of the rs or rx kits would best suit me ? Or would i get better performance from building my own loop within my budget? Someone help plzzz


----------



## Bal3Wolf

what quadcore do you own ? the rx360 kit and silver coil can be had for under 200 from jab-tech.


----------



## thrasherht

the pump is good.

^^half an opinion. WOOOO we have a nickle now.


----------



## Wess

will an RX360 handle the parts on my sig? I will be doing some heavy OC on the CH4F, wanna squeeze the life out of that 955 then get a X6 1100 in the summer. I went for the RX following what i read here about the RX needs lower speed fans and I'm a bit of a noise free PC freak. Also nobody (as far as i could get in this exellent but... loooooong thread) gave a straight forward verdict on the pump noise. Is it a humming sound, is there lots of vibrations... Thanks guys for all the help!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

it will be able to cool that amd great as for noise i dont have the exact pump but if seen mixed reviews some quiet some noisy some rattling some say just sound of a fan seems like a toss up to what one you get but xspc says its under 40db thats about the noise put out by a 2000rpm fan.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Mine's the quietest cooling system I have ever had the likes of having... runs a bit hot at 5 Ghz but still not bad at all...


----------



## Wess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12328179*
> xspc says its under 40db thats about the noise put out by a 2000rpm fan.


I have a HAF 932 with fans running at stock (1200rpm for the exhaust fan and around 800rpm for the 2 big fans) and the X2 555 BE in now is cooled by a Arctic Cooling 64 with a 90mm fan that never goes above 1200. Actually the rear fan at 1200rpm is the one making the most noise (well kind of a loud hum but I sit really close to the PC, right to my left less than 30 inch away).

Can anyone say if the XSPC kit pump is in the same range? Anyone with a HAF 932, I know that you are ''Legions'' out there lol.


----------



## kingofyo1

ya know, I had a thought: why not make a graph to show people what these systems are capable of, because of questions such as this, "will an RX360 handle the parts on my sig?" so I guess I'll start:

The following is my rendition of how these kits perform and their expectations. By no means are these the opinions of any other members, just my own.

Each kit comes with all necessary hardware to complete a loop including tubing. All you need to buy is distilled water and a kill coil. Please dont purchase any colored liquid for your loop, it can only end in disaster. The RS120 kit is the only one with a smaller pump, the 450, all other kits come with a x20 750 pump.









RS120 kit: very small pump (X2O 450 12V Pump/Reservoir), very small radiator, built for CPU ONLY loop
radiator specs:
Black Gloss Finish
Dimensions: 121x35x155mm (WxDxH)
19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance
1 Row 11 Tubes
Compact Design
G1/4" Ports
M4 Screws









RS240 kit: slightly larger pump, radiator is 2x the size of the RS120, built to hand CPU and maybe GPU but expect higher temperatures than CPU only loop
radiator specs:
Black Gloss Finish
Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)
19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance
1 Row 11 Tubes
Compact Design
G1/4" Ports
M4 Screws









RS360 kit: same pump/res combo as RS240 kit, radiator is 3x the size of RS120. This kit can easily handle CPU and single GPU loop, but as with RS240, expect slightly higher temperatures than with cpu only
radiator specs:
Black Gloss Finish
Dimensions: 121x35x397mm (WxDxH)
19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance
1 Row 11 Tubes
Compact Design
G1/4" Ports
M4 Screws









RX120 kit: almost twice the thickness of RS series radiators, easier to cool with slower fans, can support CPU and possibly cpu/single GPU loop
Black Matt Finish
Dimensions: 125x58.5x162mm (WxDxH)
Copper Tubes and Fins
Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)
G1/4" Ports
6-32 Case and Fan Screws









RX240 kit: once again, thicker radiator, easier to cool with slower fans, can easily support CPU and GPU loop
radiator specs:
Black Gloss Finish
Dimensions: 125x58.5x286mm (WxDxH)
Copper Tubes and Fins
Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)
G1/4" Ports
6-32 Case and Fan Screws









RX360 kit: This kit is the top of the line XSPC Rasa kit, and as with the rest of the kits, comes with all necessary hardware to complete the loop, and can easily cool CPU and multiple GPUs.
Radiator specs:
Black Matt Finish
Dimensions: 125x58.5x410mm (WxDxH)
Copper Tubes and Fins
Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)
G1/4" Ports
6-32 Case and Fan Screws


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Are you thinking of cooling the 6950 with water to ? if not it probly will be louder then the pump.


----------



## wermad

add to op
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;12328570*
> ya know, I had a thought: why not make a graph to show people what these systems are capable of, because of questions such as this, "will an RX360 handle the parts on my sig?" so I guess I'll start:
> 
> The following is my rendition of how these kits perform and their expectations. By no means are these the opinions of any other members, just my own.
> 
> Each kit comes with all necessary hardware to complete a loop including tubing. All you need to buy is distilled water and a kill coil. Please dont purchase any colored liquid for your loop, it can only end in disaster. The RS120 kit is the only one with a smaller pump, the 450, all other kits come with a x20 750 pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RS120 kit: very small pump (X2O 450 12V Pump/Reservoir), very small radiator, built for CPU ONLY loop
> radiator specs:
> Black Gloss Finish
> Dimensions: 121x35x155mm (WxDxH)
> 19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance
> 1 Row 11 Tubes
> Compact Design
> G1/4" Ports
> M4 Screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RS240 kit: slightly larger pump, radiator is 2x the size of the RS120, built to hand CPU and maybe GPU but expect higher temperatures than CPU only loop
> radiator specs:
> Black Gloss Finish
> Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)
> 19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance
> 1 Row 11 Tubes
> Compact Design
> G1/4" Ports
> M4 Screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RS360 kit: same pump/res combo as RS240 kit, radiator is 3x the size of RS120. This kit can easily handle CPU and single GPU loop, but as with RS240, expect slightly higher temperatures than with cpu only
> radiator specs:
> Black Gloss Finish
> Dimensions: 121x35x397mm (WxDxH)
> 19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance
> 1 Row 11 Tubes
> Compact Design
> G1/4" Ports
> M4 Screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RX120 kit: almost twice the thickness of RS series radiators, easier to cool with slower fans, can support CPU and possibly cpu/single GPU loop
> Black Matt Finish
> Dimensions: 125x58.5x162mm (WxDxH)
> Copper Tubes and Fins
> Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)
> G1/4" Ports
> 6-32 Case and Fan Screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RX240 kit: once again, thicker radiator, easier to cool with slower fans, can easily support CPU and GPU loop
> radiator specs:
> Black Gloss Finish
> Dimensions: 125x58.5x286mm (WxDxH)
> Copper Tubes and Fins
> Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)
> G1/4" Ports
> 6-32 Case and Fan Screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RX360 kit: This kit is the top of the line XSPC Rasa kit, and as with the rest of the kits, comes with all necessary hardware to complete the loop, and can easily cool CPU and multiple GPUs.
> Radiator specs:
> Black Matt Finish
> Dimensions: 125x58.5x410mm (WxDxH)
> Copper Tubes and Fins
> Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)
> G1/4" Ports
> 6-32 Case and Fan Screws


----------



## Wess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12328605*
> Are you thinking of cooling the 6950 with water to ? if not it probly will be louder then the pump.


Yes the 6950 is going under-water too, although i only see 6970 blocks but i guess they will fit. I will be adding another in CF soon and probably having a X6 1100 in a few months. Thats why i was going for the RX360.

I also want a good solution for fan speed control, will this one do for the RX360 kit fans?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

well your amd runs cooler then my i7 and i had my i7 and 5870 under water on one rx360 and had good temps only droped a little when i added the rx240 to the loop.


----------



## thrasherht

somebody who has way too much money should test each of the kits with setups.

Do like cpu only test with RS120, RS240, RX120

Then do Cpu and GPU with RX240, RS360, RX360.

and then do a dual gpu loop with the RX360.


----------



## Wess

Anyone tried this before? Koolance VID-AR697 Full Cover CrossFire Ready Video Card Water Block - Radeon HD 6970/6950 G1/4. Keep in mind I may add another one to the loop in a few months.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wess;12329397*
> Anyone tried this before? Koolance VID-AR697 Full Cover CrossFire Ready Video Card Water Block - Radeon HD 6970/6950 G1/4. Keep in mind I may add another one to the loop in a few months.


not sure about that one but i tend to favor ek gpu blocks they seem to make the best out. it says it fits the refernce 6950 also i thought it would sence a 6950 can be unlocked to a 6970.
http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-Radeon-HD-6970-VGA-Liquid-Cooling-Block-Acetal-EK-FC6970-Acetal-pr-4787.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-Radeon-HD-6970-VGA-Liquid-Cooling-Block-Nickel-EK-FC6970-Nickel-pr-4786.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekacni.html


----------



## sub7m19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12327588*
> what quadcore do you own ? the rx360 kit and silver coil can be had for under 200 from jab-tech.


i own the q6600 @ 3.2 v1.4







with an evga 750i FTW mobo + 4 gb ocz 1066mhz ram and just ordered a 460 GTX. I just really want to be able to get the bang for my bucks :/ what do you guys think?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sub7m19;12329777*
> i own the q6600 @ 3.2 v1.4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with an evga 750i FTW mobo + 4 gb ocz 1066mhz ram and just ordered a 460 GTX. I just really want to be able to get the bang for my bucks :/ what do you guys think?


well jam has a [email protected] on 1.368vcore and he hit like 61c or somthing and i thk he had it at 3.6ghz and was only at 63c with 1.47 vcore. He has the rx360 kit cpu only in the loop.

http://www.overclock.net/11988911-post2254.html


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ok i decided to do everyone a favor wondering if the kit really is a good deal i priced out everything in the kit as best as i could getting exact same parts in the kit that i could or stuff like it. One thing they didnt have was the external rad mounts i didnt do any shipping quotes but you can guess adding all the stuff stores tend to add a little somthing for each item so the kit would cost less shipped also.

Quote:


> *RX360*
> 
> XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetal = 49.95
> 
> XSPC RX360 = 87.95
> 
> XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump = 49.95
> 
> Masterkleer Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD 7 feet = 3.43
> 
> XSPC G1/4 Barb to 1/2" Fitting 6 barbs = 15
> 
> YATE LOON 120mm D12SH-12 3 fans = 9.90
> 
> Arctic CERAMIQUE 2.5g cheapest on jab-tech = 3.99
> 
> Plastic Tubing Clamps - Black small 6x = 2.40
> 
> *Total= 222.57
> Kit saves you = 32.62*
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 CPU watercooling kit 199.99
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 CPU watercooling kit 189.95


Quote:


> *RX240*
> 
> XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetal = 49.95
> 
> XSPC RX240 = 66.95
> 
> XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump = 49.95
> 
> Masterkleer Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD 7 feet = 3.43
> 
> XSPC G1/4 Barb to 1/2" Fitting 6 barbs = 15
> 
> YATE LOON 120mm D12SH-12 3 fans = 9.90
> 
> Arctic CERAMIQUE 2.5g cheapest on jab-tech = 3.99
> 
> Plastic Tubing Clamps - Black small 6x = 2.40
> 
> *Total= 201.57
> Kit saves you = 31.62*
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 CPU watercooling kit 169.95
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 CPU watercooling kit 169.95


Quote:


> *RS360*
> 
> XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetal = 49.95
> 
> XSPC RS360 = 46.95
> 
> XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump = 49.95
> 
> Masterkleer Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD 7 feet = 3.43
> 
> XSPC G1/4 Barb to 1/2" Fitting 6 barbs = 15
> 
> YATE LOON 120mm D12SH-12 3 fans = 9.90
> 
> Arctic CERAMIQUE 2.5g cheapest on jab-tech = 3.99
> 
> Plastic Tubing Clamps - Black small 6x = 2.40
> 
> *Total= 181.57
> Kit saves you = 31.58*
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 CPU watercooling kit 149.99
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 CPU watercooling kit 149.99


Quote:


> *RS240*
> 
> XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetal = 49.95
> 
> XSPC RS240 = 37.95
> 
> XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump = 49.95
> 
> Masterkleer Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD 7 feet = 3.43
> 
> XSPC G1/4 Barb to 1/2" Fitting 6 barbs = 15
> 
> YATE LOON 120mm D12SH-12 3 fans = 9.90
> 
> Arctic CERAMIQUE 2.5g cheapest on jab-tech = 3.99
> 
> Plastic Tubing Clamps - Black small 6x = 2.40
> 
> *Total= 172.57
> Kit saves you = 42.62*
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 CPU watercooling kit 129.95


----------



## hot120

@Bal3Wolf. Mad props on the info!


----------



## hot120

Attached are my pics. My pump makes the slightest 'fish tank' noise. I guess that is normal from what I've read. I love the silver face plate, as it matches my 4-3 HDD cage. Idle and load temps with I7-970 taken at stock. What does everyone think of my temps? Anything I can do to lower them? Ambient was around 24c. I am going to try for 4.0Ghz later this week after I do some reading up on overclocking the Gulftown series processors. Thanks in advance for any assistance!


----------



## hot120

What was the outcome of this? My pump sounds just like that. I am getting used to the noise, but it is definitely noticeable!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tnaz71;12286859*
> How noisy is the pump suppose to be? I just got him installed yesterday, ran it all night got all the air out and this thing is extremely noisy. Like I can hear it if I walk out of my room noisy.. I would understand a bit of noise but I just don't think this is right..
> 
> Here is a short video of the noise. Please let me know if this is normal or If I need to contact someone.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpWOqLEu5I8


----------



## hot120

Kahbrohn,

Any further word on this? I am tempted to make a video and send an email to XSPC about the slight chattering. I wonder if we can make a poll to see how many users have noisy pumps and how many have quiet pumps? Mine started out very quiet at first. I know I've shaken my computer in all directions and am confident there is no air left in the loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12323622*
> I cant say in comparison to other WC setups since this is my very first setup but so far it is great. The CPU block competes with the best of them coming in mostly in 2nd. or maybe even 3rd. place in the different reviews but by only 1*C difference.
> 
> Value is outstanding IMO.
> 
> Some things can be improved on but easily done so (e.g. tubing).
> 
> If the "kit" has a weak link, it's the present pump/res combo unit. It seems like several units have an issue with a rattling noise. I have been following up closely on this and I have it on good authority that the problem has been identified, it is in the process of being corrected but I have no information as to when it will be corrected (other than "soon"). I was promised to be notified of the correction and once I know I can advise then. The issue is not with the mechanical components though so the pump will not fail. That's all I think prudent to say at this time.
> 
> Others have gone with alternative pumps and res to good effect. All in all I do not think that this brand has anything to envy of the more pricier components out there. Other brands do look a lot better, granted, but all in all if you are like me, you are looking for the best cooling efficiency for the dollar.
> 
> Just my 2 centavos worth.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot120;12331611*
> Kahbrohn,
> 
> Any further word on this? I am tempted to make a video and send an email to XSPC about the slight chattering. I wonder if we can make a poll to see how many users have noisy pumps and how many have quiet pumps? Mine started out very quiet at first. I know I've shaken my computer in all directions and am confident there is no air left in the loop.


Hehehehe... I was going to quote this when you beat me to it.

No, not yet. This feed back on the pump happened this past Monday. As I understand it, XSPC has determined finally what the issue is and is working on it. It may take a few weeks though since it has to do with manufacturing equipment (not materials or components). All I can suggest is that you write them on the issue, send them a short 7-10 second video and get on record with them.

Remember... they already found the problem. They now need to fix it, test it out and then they need to ship out the replacements to their vendors as well as to their distribution center in Texas. THE PUMPS WILL NOT FAIL THOUGH. The noise is just a nuisance. Pump works as it was designed to work.

I am sorry if I do not go into details on what the issue is but I was not authorized to release the details yet. Once I hear something positive from them I will let you guys know immediately. I do suggest you document your issue with them. Send XSPC (e-mail addy under the support link) with a short 7-10 second video "with sound". Do not "Youtube" it. Youtube is blocked in China by the government. Send them the actual video file instead.

As for a poll... I wouldn't mind but not sure what the admins would say. I personally would give XSPC the room they need to make good (and I don't see why they won't in all honesty - this is embarrassing to them and they know they have a decent product).


----------



## Silomatic

I would do exactly what is suggested above. The "clicky" noise is in fact a defect in manufacturing, but as stated the pump will not go out. I sent dazhong an email and he got back to me in a timely manner. I sent him a video clip of the noisy pump. He replied asking for my address and phone number to send me a new one.
I'm pretty sure hes getting alot of emails and I applaud him for his handling of the pump/res issue.


----------



## tnaz71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot120;12331574*
> What was the outcome of this? My pump sounds just like that. I am getting used to the noise, but it is definitely noticeable!


I contacted them & finally got this reply
Quote:


> Yes, it is noisy. Pls send me your address and tel no. We will replace you one.


The "clicky" sound that I am getting is loud, like I can hear it now with the door closed loud but, the pump seems to be working fine it's just the noise is horrible. There is no way possible I could ever get used to this noise, It's like having







done to you all day and getting used to it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silomatic;12334644*
> I would do exactly what is suggested above. The "clicky" noise is in fact a defect in manufacturing, but as stated the pump will not go out. I sent dazhong an email and he got back to me in a timely manner. I sent him a video clip of the noisy pump. He replied asking for my address and phone number to send me a new one.
> I'm pretty sure hes getting alot of emails and I applaud him for his handling of the pump/res issue.


Was told the same thing here.

*UPDATE* - Shipping of the new/fixed pumps should be happening next week. The problem was a mold used to cast the pump housing or the impeller - was never told which. It either wore out or was damaged in some manner. The "faulty" pump housing/impeller would seem in good order to the human eye but the fit may have been less than desireable.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tnaz71;12334867*
> The "clicky" sound that I am getting is loud, like I can hear it now with the door closed loud but, the pump seems to be working fine it's just the noise is horrible. There is no way possible I could ever get used to this noise, It's like having
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> done to you all day and getting used to it.


I better not see you post how much you miss your clickety-click noise when you go silent!!!


----------



## Wess

Too bad, I was about to or der a RX360 kit







I guess I should wait...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wess;12335123*
> Too bad, I was about to or der a RX360 kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I should wait...


From who?


----------



## RaCeR123

Since the rasa comes with absolutely no instructions for amd I have a quick question, did I mount this right? Just feels odd that those screws are just sticking out. So I would like to get some help/advise. Thanks.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12335322*
> Since the rasa comes with absolutely no instructions for amd I have a quick question, did I mount this right? Just feels odd that those screws are just sticking out. So I would like to get some help/advise. Thanks.


Looks all right. What backplate did you use?


----------



## RaCeR123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12335464*
> Looks all right. What backplate did you use?


At the moment none, I just put the screws in with the washers. Didn't have any sandpaper available to sand down my old backplate.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12335535*
> At the moment none, I just put the screws in with the washers. Didn't have any sandpaper available to sand down my old backplate.


It'll be alright, as long as you don't screw them down too tight.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12335535*
> At the moment none, I just put the screws in with the washers. Didn't have any sandpaper available to sand down my old backplate.


As long as you feel you have good pressure on the thumbscrews and there is not much "play" of the water block, TIM is applied correctly... I would say you should be good to go.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12335606*
> It'll be alright, as long as you don't screw them down too tight.


x2 - Need pressure but not excessive.


----------



## Wess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12335216*
> From who?


From DazMode. I'm in canada so that's the only choice I have atm.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wess;12335636*
> From DazMode. I'm in canada so that's the only choice I have atm.


Ok... What you could do is contact them first and ask them about the "rattling" pump issue and when they expect the new pump/res to arrive and take it from there. Also you can ask them what their return policy is if you did buy now and ran into a problem with the pump. If they want to sell (and I believe they do) they will try to accomodate you.


----------



## Wess

Probably, but I think I'll go grab a D14 later and save the headache... maybe upgrade to a 1100T too. I'll WC when I can buy a custom loop with proven components.


----------



## hot120

@Kahbrohn,

Thanks for your help and sharing of this information. I do love my setup, but if there is something I can do to quiet it down, I am all for it!


----------



## metroidfreak

Okay, so how loud are your guys pump? Mine is louder than the 8 case fans in my case. and sounds like dishwasher.


----------



## Wess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wess;12328121*
> I went for the RX following what i read here about the RX needs lower speed fans and I'm a bit of a noise free PC freak. Also nobody (as far as i could get in this exellent but... loooooong thread) gave a straight forward verdict on the pump noise. Is it a humming sound, is there lots of vibrations... Thanks guys for all the help!


I think I started a CATACLYSM like event in this thread lol ... the pump noise scandale


----------



## hot120

Just sent the below email. Hopefully they can send me a new pump that is as quiet as the other users have reported. Also, see the video I posted on Youtube.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HerZ6azdrSg[/ame]

==============
Customer Service,

I am writing in regards to a XSPC Rasa 750 kit I have had for about a week now. The pump is running with a slight chattering sound that other users of the kit have also reported. I have recorded a short video of the kit, and the pump noise is very noticeable, even over the case fans. What should I do? Thanks for any assistance!
=====================


----------



## rmp459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12336619*
> Okay, so how loud are your guys pump? Mine is louder than the 8 case fans in my case. and sounds like dishwasher.


Only loud when I was still bleeding some air out of my loop.. pretty quiet now.


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot120;12336773*
> Just sent the below email. Hopefully they can send me a new pump that is as quiet as the other users have reported. Also, see the video I posted on Youtube.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HerZ6azdrSg
> 
> ==============
> Customer Service,
> 
> I am writing in regards to a XSPC Rasa 750 kit I have had for about a week now. The pump is running with a slight chattering sound that other users of the kit have also reported. I have recorded a short video of the kit, and the pump noise is very noticeable, even over the case fans. What should I do? Thanks for any assistance!
> =====================


That is exactly what mine is sounding like! Let me know what they say!


----------



## hot120

Yeah! That video was taken with the door open to my computer room and the television on in the living room in the middle of the day. Had I taken the video late at night with no one else up, the sound would have been much worse!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12336852*
> That is exactly what mine is sounding like! Let me know what they say!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wess;12336736*
> I think I started a CATACLYSM like event in this thread lol ... the pump noise scandale


Nahhh... it's been a couple weeks now. It's just that more people are experiencing the same issue. Hopefully replacements will be issued shortly.


----------



## mbudden

I forgot who noticed it first, though I'm really glad that XSPC is handling it very well. Shows what kind of CS they have, a pretty good one. I really hate not being able to keep up with how fast you guys post. I will be going through one night when I have the free time and 100 PPP and get everyone added. I feel that I have neglected you guys a little bit and I'm sorry for that. But I thank all the great people that stay in this thread chatting and helping others. Life has made it so I don't have much free time and when I do, it's more or less me writing simple responses and leaving.








So if anyone needs to be added, don't worry. I will be making a run through and getting you all.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wess;12335969*
> Probably, but I think I'll go grab a D14 later and save the headache... maybe upgrade to a 1100T too. I'll WC when I can buy a custom loop with proven components.


There is no "headache". The RASA XSPC kit is an amazing kit with excellent components that rival any "custom" loop. The RX rad and XSPC waterblock are simply some of the best money can buy. The pump/res combo is hit and miss. Mine is dead silent and runs perfectly. I bought my RX360 kit from Dazmode for $199. The only add-ons I would recommend are change the tubing for 1/2" ID Feser One (or whatever you prefer) and perhaps the fittings if you want a cleaner look (I went with 1/2 inch to 1/4 compression fittings). This combo blows away the DH14 or any air cooler.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12336852*
> That is exactly what mine is sounding like! Let me know what they say!


I think mine may have started out like that...well not quite as loud, but it's totally silent now. I can't hear it above my case fans which run at 700 rpm. To hear if its working, I have to literally put my ear right against it to hear the humming/staticy type noise (i.e. sounds like an aquarium pump).


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12337753*
> I think mine may have started out like that...well not quite as loud, but it's totally silent now. I can't hear it above my case fans which run at 700 rpm. To hear if its working, I have to literally put my ear right against it to hear the humming/staticy type noise (i.e. sounds like an aquarium pump).


I'll get it fully up and running for a day or two and see how it sounds. What can I do to know as many bubbles out as I can? tap the tubes and tilt the case and such?


----------



## hot120

I shook mine for about an hour off and on when I first installed it, and now there are zero bubbles in the reservoir (except for a small few). With the plate on, I can't tell that water is flowing unless I look at the blue light and see its wavy pattern. This kit is the best money can buy given the price point/value.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12337809*
> I'll get it fully up and running for a day or two and see how it sounds. What can I do to know as many bubbles out as I can? tap the tubes and tilt the case and such?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wess;12335969*
> Probably, but I think I'll go grab a D14 later and save the headache... maybe upgrade to a 1100T too. I'll WC when I can buy a custom loop with proven components.


The rasa kit is a custom loop, it just happens to be a combo package you can buy. All the parts are parts you can buy seperately.

The rasa block is probably one of the best blocks money can buy. It ranks second in temp, and second in flow rates. The EK supreme only beats it by .1c to 1c.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wess;12335969*
> Probably, but I think I'll go grab a D14 later and save the headache... maybe upgrade to a 1100T too. I'll WC when I can buy a custom loop with proven components.


http://www.overclock.net/12330902-post3845.html

i did a price check on parts in the kit and if you went custom with same parts they are quailty parts only thing can be the weak link is the pump and it seems xspc is fixing the small issue they had with noise.


----------



## Brutuz

My pump has that rattling sound too, I can't hear it over my fans though unless I really try to.


----------



## ezveedub

First off, when people on here say the XSPC pump is the weak link, it doesn't mean its gonna drop dead in a week. Some have noisy pumps, but they still work fine. Some may have had failures, but it's not that many. Also given the fact that these kits are probably out selling other kits, you will probably hear more people talk about the pumps since there's more units out there now. You can use a different pump, but its more expensive one, and also louder in most cases. And guess what....the DDC and D5 pumps fail also. At this point, I would say that these kits have no real issues, more so when the price is what everybody likes and the system works very, very well.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12338307*
> First off, when people on here say the XSPC pump is the weak link, it doesn't mean its gonna drop dead in a week. Some have noisy pumps, but they still work fine. Some may have had failures, but it's not that many. Also given the fact that these kits are probably out selling other kits, you will probably hear more people talk about the pumps since there's more units out there now. You can use a different pump, but its more expensive one, and also louder in most cases. And guess what....the DDC and D5 pumps fail also. At this point, I would say that these kits have no real issues, more so when the price is what everybody likes and the system works very, very well.


Yup, what he said!!!


----------



## hot120

Good clarification! I vouch for these kits! I have been reading and planning a water-cooling setup for over a year now. I was almost ready to plop down $110 for the H70, but decided I would give the Rasa kit a try. Best move I've made since getting that deal on the Core I7-970 from IRE. Honestly, I can deal with the noise. I doesn't bother me in the sense of thinking the kit is faulty. If no one else stated they had quiet pumps, I probably would not be concerned at all. However, if there is a fix for the noise, I'd like to have it. Knowwhati'msaying?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12338307*
> First off, when people on here say the XSPC pump is the weak link, it doesn't mean its gonna drop dead in a week. Some have noisy pumps, but they still work fine. Some may have had failures, but it's not that many. Also given the fact that these kits are probably out selling other kits, you will probably hear more people talk about the pumps since there's more units out there now. You can use a different pump, but its more expensive one, and also louder in most cases. And guess what....the DDC and D5 pumps fail also. At this point, I would say that these kits have no real issues, more so when the price is what everybody likes and the system works very, very well.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12338307*
> First off, when people on here say the XSPC pump is the weak link, it doesn't mean its gonna drop dead in a week. Some have noisy pumps, but they still work fine. Some may have had failures, but it's not that many. Also given the fact that these kits are probably out selling other kits, you will probably hear more people talk about the pumps since there's more units out there now. You can use a different pump, but its more expensive one, and also louder in most cases. And guess what....the DDC and D5 pumps fail also. At this point, I would say that these kits have no real issues, more so when the price is what everybody likes and the system works very, very well.


Well mainly when i say the pump is the weak link its the low head presure the 750 pump only has 6.5feet the d5 has 10feet and the ddc has 20feet. But the 750 pump is plenty for a single cpu and 1 gpu loop adding another gpu in some cases is pushing the pump to its limit depending how you have your stuff setup.


----------



## RaCeR123

Where does this go?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12339447*
> Where does this go?


Place the little led into one of the two holes in the back of the res and then connect the other end to the psu. I suggest you use a little dab of glue around the led when you put it into the hole so it stays put. If you want you can even buy a second led for the other hole


----------



## mbudden

Res.


----------



## RaCeR123

Alright last question i promise lol (probably not). Which one is the the in and which one is the out on the res and radiator or does it not matter? Just want to everything right the first time around. If the damn fedex truck would get here already, waiting on my primochill tubing


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


Alright last question i promise lol (probably not). Which one is the the in and which one is the out on the res and radiator or does it not matter? Just want to everything right the first time around. If the damn fedex truck would get here already, waiting on my primochill tubing










In and out on the radiator does not matter. Reservoir inlet is the low port that threads to the reservoir wall only. The outlet is the higher port that threads onto the pump.


----------



## Dark

Here's the Rasa 750 RS240 kit in my project box.
Added a Swiftech 240 radiator, northbridge block, and an EK copper/nickel full 4890 block.

The feser fluid is going to be flushed.


----------



## yoyo711

I just install Rasa 750 RS360 kit my cpu cool and happy


----------



## RaCeR123

Does this loop look ok? Everything how it should be before I start filling it up/


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


Does this loop look ok? Everything how it should be before I start filling it up/


looks great, just start filling it up and watch to make sure it doesn't leak. then once you have it filled up power up the pump and fill the res as necessary.


----------



## hot120

You know, my CPU (I7-970) has about a 12 degree difference between the coldest and hottest core (28, 33, 34, 24, 33, 33 for Core's 0-5 respectively). I checked the CPU block on the Rasa kit, and it is not completely flat. Perhaps that is what is causing the range of temperatures, which correlates to the convex shape of the block?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];11783180*
> Balsagna, are you sure the block is mounted properly - there's a 14c difference between your hottest and coldest core. Seems like either a) the block isn't mounted with equal pressure (or is in need of lapping); or b) bad sensor.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hot120*


You know, my CPU (I7-970) has about a 12 degree difference between the coldest and hottest core (28, 33, 34, 24, 33, 33 for Core's 0-7 respectively). I checked the CPU block on the Rasa kit, and it is not completely flat. Perhaps that is what is causing the range of temperatures, which correlates to the convex shape of the block?


how can't you have 8 different temps, you have a quad core.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


how can't you have 8 different temps, you have a quad core.


Neither is right. The I7 970 is a 6 core cpu


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12341191*
> Neither is right. The I7 970 is a 6 core cpu


oh woops, didn't see it was a 970. so it should have six temps.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12340863*
> Does this loop look ok? Everything how it should be before I start filling it up/


I would swap the two hose on the radiator. The hose from CPU block to radiator wouldn't have that sharp curve in it if you did.


----------



## hot120

Fixed! Thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


how can't you have 8 different temps, you have a quad core.


----------



## Dave73

I am new here and been reading a lot of post starting with the H50 club and many others, but it is time to move up not by need but fun LOL. So been looking at the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit and will be picking one up soon. Now for my question, Dose anyone think that the cpu mounting looks like a cheesy ghetto mod for the AMD and the one for the Intel is nice and clean even the thumb screws look better? I have seen this with other blocks as well it seems that amd is a afterthought next to Intel. (IMHO)
Please don't get me wrong I like Intel if income allowed it would be a i7 all the way, but I am looking at the am3+ dozer.
So my plan is to make a new hold down plate to fit the block and use the thumb screws for the Intel. I will need to draw it out in my AutoCADD and CNC program to get it just right. I will see how it goes when I get the kit in a few weeks by then they will have the new pumps in place. I will get some pix of my rig up soon.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dave73*


I am new here and been reading a lot of post starting with the H50 club and many others, but it is time to move up not by need but fun LOL. So been looking at the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit and will be picking one up soon. Now for my question, Dose anyone think that the cpu mounting looks like a cheesy ghetto mod for the AMD and the one for the Intel is nice and clean even the thumb screws look better? I have seen this with other blocks as well it seems that amd is a afterthought next to Intel. (IMHO)
Please don't get me wrong I like Intel if income allowed it would be a i7 all the way, but I am looking at the am3+ dozer.
So my plan is to make a new hold down plate to fit the block and use the thumb screws for the Intel. I will need to draw it out in my AutoCADD and CNC program to get it just right. I will see how it goes when I get the kit in a few weeks by then they will have the new pumps in place. I will get some pix of my rig up soon.


all you need to make sure of is that your bracket is strong enough, but other then that, you should be good.


----------



## urdeath007

My apologies, it's through my android phone's camera but it's the current setup for my XSPC Rasa 360 Loop.

I have push/pull config on the radiator which is on the back of the case hanging via screws. Total 6 120mm fans

I've used UV Blue tubing after my initial setup to find how much tubing I needed in certain areas to make it not kink. Which I still had one kink I had to deal with.

I have a DangerDen Fillport which is what the tubing going off to the bottom right is. Just enough so I can get it out of the case & into whatever object I choose for convenient draining of the loop.

I have two blacklights currently in the case & a bright blue LED hanging from the psu which is illuminating the top left. I might be adding another two blacklights later on but for now I have finals approaching so I'll deal with it at my leisure lol.

I have temps staying around 52c while I'm folding GPU (EVGA 480 SC) & i7-930 at about 75% load to folding while the rest is so I can get personal use out of it while folding. So far doing quite good. While not folding/Idle I have temps at 30C. When I have the 3 inner fans turned on I'm sure my temps will drop even lower but I needed the rig online to get caught up in classes so I'm waiting a bit on that as it's doing amazing so far.

Once my quarter break rolls around I plan on dealing with not all cables being UV reactive (as well as the cable clutter) as well as getting the other 3 fans online as the power lines won't reach to anything unfortunately so will see how creative I can get or just get new ones meh.


----------



## Dave73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


all you need to make sure of is that your bracket is strong enough, but other then that, you should be good.


Thanks, I am looking at Acrylic just need to get the right thickness to keep it stiff also looking at adding leds to it just for flar.


----------



## Dissentience

My Rasa 750 RS240 is on the way!


----------



## Mr.Zergling

Whoo add me up 

















Had this build for like 2-3weeks, just getting to the photo part lol


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dave73*


Thanks, I am looking at Acrylic just need to get the right thickness to keep it stiff also looking at adding leds to it just for flar.


Welcome, I too was an early adopter of the H50 and a member of the owners club, did everything I could to it then finally made the switch to this. Temps dropped 12 degrees C and system is quieter even with three times the fans (RX360 rad does just fine with low speed silent fans vs the Ultra Kaze I had on my H50).


----------



## RaCeR123

Ok so I installed the kit. Everything went pretty smooth but I just realized that I mounted the CPU block a little wrong. Temps are about the same as when I used air so that concerned me. Pretty much I just need to switch the spring around. What would be the best way about fixing this. Do you guys suggest draining the entire loop, or would I be able to if I am very careful to just take apart the CPU block, switch the spring around and tighten it back up without having to drain anything?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


Ok so I installed the kit. Everything went pretty smooth but I just realized that I mounted the CPU block a little wrong. Temps are about the same as when I used air so that concerned me. Pretty much I just need to switch the spring around. What would be the best way about fixing this. Do you guys suggest draining the entire loop, or would I be able to if I am very careful to just take apart the CPU block, switch the spring around and tighten it back up without having to drain anything?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


just take the block off, you can remove the block without disconnecting the hoses from it. you dont' really have to take much apart, just move the spring.

can you get a picture of it?


----------



## RaCeR123

Before and After.

Running Prime at the moment but temperatures seems to be about the same.

Temperatures are at around 47C. Running 4.1ghz @ 1.48

Do those temps sound right or are they high?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dave73*


I am new here and been reading a lot of post starting with the H50 club and many others, but it is time to move up not by need but fun LOL. So been looking at the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit and will be picking one up soon. Now for my question, Dose anyone think that the cpu mounting looks like a cheesy ghetto mod for the AMD and the one for the Intel is nice and clean even the thumb screws look better? I have seen this with other blocks as well it seems that amd is a afterthought next to Intel. (IMHO)
Please don't get me wrong I like Intel if income allowed it would be a i7 all the way, but I am looking at the am3+ dozer.
So my plan is to make a new hold down plate to fit the block and use the thumb screws for the Intel. I will need to draw it out in my AutoCADD and CNC program to get it just right. I will see how it goes when I get the kit in a few weeks by then they will have the new pumps in place. I will get some pix of my rig up soon.


I thought I read like a thousand posts back (LOL) someone saying that the Intel screws fit the amd back plate without any mod. Of course this was the day after I installed mine (including drilling out the back plate) so I now have no way to verify it. Just going on memory here and as you can see there's waaay to many posts to keep things straight in this thread.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


I thought I read like a thousand posts back (LOL) someone saying that the Intel screws fit the amd back plate without any mod. Of course this was the day after I installed mine (including drilling out the back plate) so I now have no way to verify it. Just going on memory here and as you can see there's waaay to many posts to keep things straight in this thread.


They fit the H50/70 backplates. That's how I have it set up. Not sure they would line up with the Intel backplates.


----------



## jdpkeeper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


Before and After.

Running Prime at the moment but temperatures seems to be about the same.

Temperatures are at around 47C. Running 4.1ghz @ 1.48

Do those temps sound right or are they high?


Did you use a backplate?


----------



## jdpkeeper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


I thought I read like a thousand posts back (LOL) someone saying that the Intel screws fit the amd back plate without any mod. Of course this was the day after I installed mine (including drilling out the back plate) so I now have no way to verify it. Just going on memory here and as you can see there's waaay to many posts to keep things straight in this thread.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silomatic*


Ok, so I took a nice little nap. In the process of waking up I realized something. The assembly screws that come with the Intel socket adapters actually screw into the Amd backplate. Needless to say I canceled my order of the Noct back plate. Wish I was always "smart" lol


yes, you read right!


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvous23;12321933*
> I thought I had put my fans as Intake when I was assembling everything but I can feel a lot of air coming up from the top of the case as if they are set to exhaust. I included a picture so you can see. If they are set to exhaust I will probably switch them around when I pull everything apart to install some GTs from the group buy.


I haven't checked the last two pages (@100 posts per page) so forgive me if you've already figured it out or someone else has already replied.
Your fans are intake. You can tell by the shape of the blades. But the easiest way to test is to put a piece of tissue over the fans and see what happens.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12322947*
> lol this thread is huge.


Ikr! I've been following since the beginning, and I still haven't put my kit together!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];12347127*
> I haven't checked the last two pages (@100 posts per page) so forgive me if you've already figured it out or someone else has already replied.
> Your fans are intake. You can tell by the shape of the blades. But the easiest way to test is to put a piece of tissue over the fans and see what happens.
> 
> Ikr! I've been following since the beginning, and I *still haven't put my kit together*!


SHAME on you. You are here by banished from this thread till you post pictures of your working rasa kit. Now OFF with you.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12347412*
> SHAME on you. You are here by banished from this thread till you post pictures of your working rasa kit. Now OFF with you.


Pssh. I haven't finished my case mod so I've got no rig to put it in yet


----------



## urdeath007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12343875*
> I thought I read like a thousand posts back (LOL) someone saying that the Intel screws fit the amd back plate without any mod. Of course this was the day after I installed mine (including drilling out the back plate) so I now have no way to verify it. Just going on memory here and as you can see there's waaay to many posts to keep things straight in this thread.


maybe we need an official thread just for important information & let this one run it's course. That way the other one would have important information & be easier to manage/keep track of things. :S

My point being replies can be posted here & useful links, kit info, install info n such can be based in the other as this thread is far from easy to keep track of anything in lol.


----------



## Dave73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12343875*
> I thought I read like a thousand posts back (LOL) someone saying that the Intel screws fit the amd back plate without any mod. Of course this was the day after I installed mine (including drilling out the back plate) so I now have no way to verify it. Just going on memory here and as you can see there's waaay to many posts to keep things straight in this thread.


That is the plan for the back plate, It is the hold down plate on top of the block that needs style like the Intel top plate. I did read about the back plate mod but that plate is not seen in a windowed case. If you look at the two top hold down plates side by side you can tell the differance more thought was given to Intel amd not amd (imho).


----------



## DullBoi

Hi all.

A little update if I may









from this . .










to this. .

















Less lights


















Pump should hold up longer now









Peace


----------



## metroidfreak

Does this seem like an okay order?

pump > 1st rad > CPU > GPU> 2nd rad > res


----------



## DullBoi

well order doesn't actually matter, but go for res/pump > rad1 > CPU > rad2 > GPU > res/pump


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DullBoi;12347717*
> well order doesn't actually matter, but go for res/pump > rad1 > CPU > rad2 > GPU > res/pump


that's what i did. well, similar: RES/PUMP > RAD > CPU > RES/Pump


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;12347556*
> maybe we need an official thread just for important information & let this one run it's course. That way the other one would have important information & be easier to manage/keep track of things. :S
> 
> My point being replies can be posted here & useful links, kit info, install info n such can be based in the other as this thread is far from easy to keep track of anything in lol.


I second that motion! Imagine how many repeat questions could be saved from asking if there was a spread sheet in the OP of users systems including OC, voltages and temps both idle and under load, RS or RX, 240 or 360 etc. I spent almost a week PM'ing 1090T owners to find out for myself. The lesson could be taken from Eclipse and RaginCain on the setup of the the Asus Crosshair IV Formula/Extreme Club (OP) which IMHO is the most informative, best run thread running on OCN. There should also be some kind of standard called out as to how the temp was read, either core temp or cpu socket temp in the case of 1090T's.

Just as with temps being listed, I can't tell you how let down I felt after learning how I didn't have to do the back plate mod when instead all it took was using the Intel screws with the original back plate. What a shame, had it been posted just one day sooner lol. Things like this is what makes a thread useful and meaningful and should be placed in a useful link which you'll also find an example of in the Formula/Extreme club thread in the OP. I'm really not running this thread down at all, there's lots of good info here. Just wish it was better organized in which case I for one would be a lot more willing to participate in rather than just reading all the "I just ordered one" and "hey look at my pretty lights" and other non essential topics. Some times feels like it's "Show and Tell" from grade school rather than an informative thread on the RASA Kit lol.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12343672*
> Before and After.
> 
> Running Prime at the moment but temperatures seems to be about the same.
> 
> Temperatures are at around 47C. Running 4.1ghz @ 1.48
> 
> Do those temps sound right or are they high?


For your voltage and set-up that just about right....but to really answer your question I need to know your ambient temp.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12343672*
> Before and After.
> 
> Running Prime at the moment but temperatures seems to be about the same.
> 
> Temperatures are at around 47C. Running 4.1ghz @ 1.48
> 
> Do those temps sound right or are they high?


Sound about right to me. My E5300 @ 4.21Ghz w/ 1.5V's gets me 48-50C
So yeah. Temps are effected by ambient and how much voltage is going through your chip.


----------



## ezveedub

Just got in the XSPC dual 5.25" bay reservoir with a DDC pump. Just connected it in a single hose loop with some RO/DI water and I'm not sure if I'm gonna like the medium pitch hum from this pump setup.







Will know more over the weekend.


----------



## koven

so i got 2x AP-15's coming for the rs240

gonna use them in push but i was wondering if it's worth using the stock fans too for push/pull... or should i just use the ap-15's in push


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;12348589*
> so i got 2x AP-15's coming for the rs240
> 
> gonna use them in push but i was wondering if it's worth using the stock fans too for push/pull... or should i just use the ap-15's in push


Use the stock fans as pull alongside. The more fans, the better.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urdeath007;12347556*
> maybe we need an official thread just for important information & let this one run it's course. That way the other one would have important information & be easier to manage/keep track of things. :S
> 
> My point being replies can be posted here & useful links, kit info, install info n such can be based in the other as this thread is far from easy to keep track of anything in lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12348085*
> I second that motion! Imagine how many repeat questions could be saved from asking if there was a spread sheet in the OP of users systems including OC, voltages and temps both idle and under load, RS or RX, 240 or 360 etc. I spent almost a week PM'ing 1090T owners to find out for myself. The lesson could be taken from Eclipse and RaginCain on the setup of the the Asus Crosshair IV Formula/Extreme Club (OP) which IMHO is the most informative, best run thread running on OCN. There should also be some kind of standard called out as to how the temp was read, either core temp or cpu socket temp in the case of 1090T's.
> 
> Just as with temps being listed, I can't tell you how let down I felt after learning how I didn't have to do the back plate mod when instead all it took was using the Intel screws with the original back plate. What a shame, had it been posted just one day sooner lol. Things like this is what makes a thread useful and meaningful and should be placed in a useful link which you'll also find an example of in the Formula/Extreme club thread in the OP. I'm really not running this thread down at all, there's lots of good info here. Just wish it was better organized in which case I for one would be a lot more willing to participate in rather than just reading all the "I just ordered one" and "hey look at my pretty lights" and other non essential topics. Some times feels like it's "Show and Tell" from grade school rather than an informative thread on the RASA Kit lol.


That is what this thread was made for, lol. There were 2 other threads going about the kits, 1 mainly. That one started going off course just like this one,







But I can't tell you how many time some with one or 2 post comes in here to ask, can this kit cool my CPU, GPU, both? Or the loop order question. Mbudden is just having a hard time keeping up with adding names, one day in this thread is about 1 week in most. I do hope he puts a link in for the Water Cooling Essential Threads, if poeple just looked at that one first it would save them a lot of worring and cut the one time posters in here by 95%


----------



## ProRules

add me








Rasa 750 RS360 kit:


----------



## Kahbrohn

Regarding the issue of valuable information being spread out through the thread, I think that all we need is a FAQ section that has the most common questions/answers posted with any pertinent links included.

A few questions I have come across are already answered in the OP but people (and "*I*" am among them) do not think to go to that first post to check.

The ONLY problem with that idea is who would volunteer to go post by post verifying questions and updatring the FAQ from time to time? The big part of the work is the initial part. After the FAQ is initially created, it would just be a matter of updating it maybe every 3-4 months or so I guess if needed.

The other section I would personally think of creating would be a "Technical Issues" section. For example, the rattling pump posts are spread out as well. This section could have updated info on issues with a pump, or a radiator or whatever. Who knows, the idea could even be sold to XSPC to update us for posting purposes. You know how many other sites refer to this site for data? For example, I have seen other sites refer their members to OCN for the GT 2150 RPM purchase thread.

Just some random thoughts...

I volunteer ezveedub!!!


----------



## mbudden

I for one think that there needs to be a FAQ as well.
I will get on that tonight, I will have free time.
I also will be going through and adding people that haven't been added.
Also will be adding links and information that has been posted in the thread.







I will have more time to be able to take care of all these tonight.


----------



## Wess

I've been reading this thread for almost a week now. Great info and help... but we need an old water-cooling shark to take the lead in here! I mean the OP is doing his best to keep things straight and needs a bit of help here.

I've been reading the sticky threads as well, and I guess most of the people that got a RASA kit after reading this thread never bothered with more than 3 pages of the other threads. Just go through the pics of the members and tell me how many of them have an easy way to drain the loop without juggeling with the whole pc







. I like the pics don't get me wrong, but the purpuse of being here as far as i understand is to approach perfection on the steps of the more experienced members.

Anyway what I'm saying is that we have lots of brilliant members with an insanely huge experience in water cooling and it's a waste to have them answer again and again same questions about the same product ...my


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol i have a few things i thk making a faq and stuff is almost useless cause majority of the users wont look at it first and go ahead ask their ? even if its been answerd 10bil times.


----------



## liquoredonlife

I've had my H70 for about two weeks and having got my feet wet (not literally) in some form of liquid cooling, I already want to jump into a RASA kit. Esp since I can return the whole H70 to Amazon by Feb 24th for a full refund. I really want to keep the rad inside the case (Antec DF-35) but am unsure how I'm going to be able to do that with a 240mm rad. Maybe two 120mm rads in series?

I'll be backtracking quite a bit in this thread. Thanks for nothing your RASA folks posting in the official Corsair H70 thread! Yargggghhhhh.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12351192*
> I've had my H70 for about two weeks and having got my feet wet (not literally) in some form of liquid cooling, I already want to jump into a RASA kit. Esp since I can return the whole H70 to Amazon by Feb 24th for a full refund. I really want to keep the rad inside the case (Antec DF-35) but am unsure how I'm going to be able to do that with a 240mm rad. Maybe two 120mm rads in series?
> 
> I'll be backtracking quite a bit in this thread. Thanks for nothing your RASA folks posting in the official Corsair H70 thread! Yargggghhhhh.


yeah,when i think of watercooling a pc,i would never consider a h50/h70,but thats me.
you will really like the kit and your new lower temps.and just maybe an even higher overclock.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12351237*
> yeah,when i think of watercooling a pc,i would never consider a h50/h70,but thats me.
> you will really like the kit and your new lower temps.and just maybe an even higher overclock.


I can't agree more with what AMOCO stated. You will not turn back.


----------



## yoyo711

add me ^^
Rasa 750 RS360 push/pull
and i need LED light for XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25 Bay Pump/Reservoir
where i can get it

thanks


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12351237*
> yeah,when i think of watercooling a pc,i would never consider a h50/h70,but thats me.
> you will really like the kit and your new lower temps.and just maybe an even higher overclock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12351442*
> I can't agree more with what AMOCO stated. You will not turn back.


My main reason actually is to just have a quieter but OC'd computer, and to get a vga block as well. Did I read it right that current water cooling liquid is non-conducive? So your computer won't die in a worst case scenario? I won't be running 24/7. Mostly a gaming & photo/video editing workstation.

I see recommendations to just get pure distilled water and some sort of liquid additive as opposing to forking over money for the Feser stuff?


----------



## mbudden

Guys, feel free to PM me or just post in here with what you think should be in a FAQ.
Tonight I will be going through this massive thread and updating it all.


----------



## DullBoi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Tonight I will be going through this massive thread and updating it all.


Good luck


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


add me ^^
Rasa 750 RS360 push/pull
and i need LED light for XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25 Bay Pump/Reservoir
where i can get it

thanks


It should have come with the kit.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


add me ^^
Rasa 750 RS360 push/pull
and i need LED light for XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25 Bay Pump/Reservoir
where i can get it

thanks


Did you lose the blue one from the kit?


----------



## j0035

just got my kit, installed easy and i no nothing about watercooling


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Guys, feel free to PM me or just post in here with what you think should be in a FAQ.
Tonight I will be going through this massive thread and updating it all.


*My old pump thread.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...res-noise.html

*Loop order does not matter with this kit.

*Martins fan testing thread(Round 6)
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-thread.html

*Suggested kit loading.(Was done a couple pages ago)
RS120=CPU only
RS240=CPU or GPU/possibly both with higher temp or less overclocking
ect, ect, ect...

If you run out of room in the OP I can help in post#3


----------



## drka0tic

Yes, like GoodInk posted. The main concern I keep seeing posted is whether the radiator is enough for user's load.

Another good item to include is whom to contact for the best support. I saw posts a while back where people were getting assistance from Jab-Tech for their pump issues because XSPC was giving them the run-around.


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Did you lose the blue one from the kit?


I did not had blue light oh my god


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


I did not had blue light oh my god


Here ya go









http://www.jab-tech.com/LEDS-c-161.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g6/c...Pin-Page1.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g6/c...Pin-Page1.html


----------



## liquoredonlife

Can anyone post the dimensions of the aluminum standoffs? Particularly the distance offset between the two holes (if it's 10mm, that'd be awesome), as well as the height gained from the actual mount.










Essentially, the dimensions of X and Y.

I was thinking of mounting the RS240 on top but outside. The top of the case has screw holes for a 140mm fan, and was wondering if I could use the aluminum standoffs to mount it up there and use some 90 degree barbs to bring it back into the case. Having it mounted vertically in the back would block some of my video cables (2x dvi, 2x mini DP).


----------



## Wess

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Guys, feel free to PM me or just post in here with what you think should be in a FAQ.
Tonight I will be going through this massive thread and updating it all.


It would be great to have these info available in the first post:

* list of the components that come in the kit (exact name, model number and such... like the fans for example, I couldn't find the exact specifications and if they are different if you get a RS or a RX kit)

* some pictures with barbs fitted in components and if any member have let's say EK fittings or any other brand to see how they fit

* and a good thing too is on top of pictures to get in the club every member should write a few lines about his/her experience with the kit. It may be a good source of insight for those who are considering the kit. we can link this same way as we link the pics


----------



## mbudden

Just wanted to say thanks for the suggestions. Editing all this up in notepad and then will bring it over to the OP. As for the people that will be added, I will probably do that first thing in the morning. I really want to make it less of a hassle on everyone having to answer the same questions over and over. I know that can get very annoying, not to mention the threads that are created in the water cooling section always asking "which is better h50 blah blah blah". I'm sure that you guys know what I mean. Anyways, I will be having this stuff up. I'm currently working of my laptop so it's not as easy as working of my sig rig. Having side by side windows in 1280x800 isn't as nice as having them open in 1920x1080. So do bare with me here. But as I said earlier, if you have any suggestions or comments. Feel free to comment. I've been popping in and out here whenever someone comments to check what people are saying or if anything needs to be added. I do thank you guys a lot for keeping this thread alive. I really couldn't do it all by myself lol

TL;DR?
Thanks for the suggestions, keep them coming.
Sorry for the wait, using my laptop. Not my sig rig.
Will try and have everything up tonight, if not. Morning.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


Can anyone post the dimensions of the aluminum standoffs? Particularly the distance offset between the two holes (if it's 10mm, that'd be awesome), as well as the height gained from the actual mount.










Essentially, the dimensions of X and Y.

I was thinking of mounting the RS240 on top but outside. The top of the case has screw holes for a 140mm fan, and was wondering if I could use the aluminum standoffs to mount it up there and use some 90 degree barbs to bring it back into the case. Having it mounted vertically in the back would block some of my video cables (2x dvi, 2x mini DP).










When I scale the dimensions, it appears the "X" dimension (height) is 1.5" (outside of metal to outside of metal) while the hole span (Y dimension) is meant to attach from 80mm fan holes to 120mm fan holes. Bare in mind my brackets are mounted already so the X dimension is hard to measure but for all intensive purposes I'd say it's 1.5". As your hoping to mount to 140mm fan holes than to 120mm fan holes in radiator I don't see a problem as you'd just swing the brackets around compared to the intended method. It would depend on the location (front to back dimension) of the 140mm fan holes in the top of your case as to whether or not it would allow the radiator to over hang the case for barbs to clear the back of the case. Imagine the 140mm mount would be the exact location of the 120mm hole spread on the radiator, in other words the center line of the fan location on the radiator would be inline with the center line of the of the 140mm fan location. From the center line of the 120mm screw holes on the radiator to the center line of the barbs is .800" (13/16") or 20.5mm. Remember this is approximate. I do know how to scale accurately as I am a tool and die maker of 25 years ok? Lol. If the barbs don't extend outside the case you can use a step drill available at most hardware stores and simply drill 3/4" holes in the top of the case and install rubber grommets (3/4 to 5/8) which is what I did on my setup.

Hope this make enough sense to answer your question!


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12355063*
> When I scale the dimensions, it appears the "X" dimension (height) is 1.5" (outside of metal to outside of metal) while the hole span (Y dimension) is meant to attach from 80mm fan holes to 120mm fan holes. Bare in mind my brackets are mounted already so the X dimension is hard to measure but for all intensive purposes I'd say it's 1.5". As your hoping to mount to 140mm fan holes than to 120mm fan holes in radiator I don't see a problem as you'd just swing the brackets around compared to the intended method. It would depend on the location (front to back dimension) of the 140mm fan holes in the top of your case as to whether or not it would allow the radiator to over hang the case for barbs to clear the back of the case. Imagine the 140mm mount would be the exact location of the 120mm hole spread on the radiator, in other words the center line of the fan location on the radiator would be inline with the center line of the of the 140mm fan location. From the center line of the 120mm screw holes on the radiator to the center line of the barbs is .800" (13/16") or 20.5mm. Remember this is approximate. I do know how to scale accurately as I am a tool and die maker of 25 years ok? Lol. If the barbs don't extend outside the case you can use a step drill available at most hardware stores and simply drill 3/4" holes in the top of the case and install rubber grommets (3/4 to 5/8) which is what I did on my setup.
> 
> Hope this make enough sense to answer your question!


I get mostly what you're saying. Unfortunately with a 20mm hole gap (to go from 80mm to a 120mm), I could line up two of the aluminum fittings at an angle (I believe it's a 21 degree angle instead of 45 degree angle)

I like drawings (however bad they are), so, this is what I mean (from a top down view):










To the left, with a 10mm hole span, going from 120 to 140mm mount would be good and proper. But with the 20mm hole span, I could get two, maybe three of the fittings in but the 4th definitely would not be able to swing around to line up. It'd probably not be too stable either.

Perhaps a 120-140mm fan adapter would work. Not too sure how stable the acrylic ones are for this application.

My whole point of getting a 90 degree barb was to reduce stress on the fitting as an externally mounted top rad. The original straight barb would be aiming straight up, with extra hose to prevent any sharp bends.










Granted, I could have the rad overhang the back of the case and point straight down. This may be a possibility as well.


----------



## Haze80

Well just ordered me the rasa 240 kit. Will post pics of install
as soon as I receive it.


----------



## terence52

guys, are my temps ok? seems to be on the high side.
idle : 43C
Load : 53C
ambient : 31C
chip : x4 b45 @ 3.6ghz 1.44v
Kit : rasa rs240 with aerocool sharks push, stock fans pull. lol.


----------



## ExLoNe

i want to buy this kit, i have a question.
if i put the cpu water block on amd am3 backplate stock its be ok ?


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExLoNe;12356983*
> i want to buy this kit, i have a question.
> if i put the cpu water block on amd am3 backplate stock its be ok ?


as i posted on your thread. yes,


----------



## ExLoNe

in 100% ?


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExLoNe;12357016*
> in 100% ?


nononoononon it will break!!! mount it with duct tape








'/ troll.
if it didnt i suppose mine wouldnt mount up either.


----------



## ExLoNe

ok ty


----------



## bennieboi6969

terence52, my temps are about the same with the 8800gts in the loop. so mayb somethings not quite right if u post a pic of ur setup we could help a little more


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12357054*
> terence52, my temps are about the same with the 8800gts in the loop. so mayb somethings not quite right if u post a pic of ur setup we could help a little more


gimme a min. i will upload it asap.


----------



## bennieboi6969

urve got it going pump -> rad -> block -> res


----------



## terence52




----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12357097*
> urve got it going pump -> rad -> block -> res


wut? i must really be doing it wrong then..








i done it like this. Pump > Block > rad > res


----------



## bennieboi6969

hmm the only thing thats seems untoward is that it goes pump block rad res mayb try changing it around to go pump rad block to res? and re apply thermal paste


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12357127*
> hmm the only thing thats seems untoward is that it goes pump block rad res mayb try changing it around to go pump rad block to res? and re apply thermal paste


ok got it. guess i will fix it when my case arrive. temps aint alarming yet. lol.
thanks. + rep.


----------



## bennieboi6969

all good this is my setup it goes pump rad block block res


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12357145*
> all good this is my setup it goes pump rad block block res


nice. hmm.. i want to dump back my old 620 back into my mobo to see how far i can go. LOL. missed the old bugger that have been with me for a yr odd. LOL


----------



## bennieboi6969

nice u wanna sell it? lol i want a second 1 as long it has unlockable lvl 3 cache


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12357172*
> nice u wanna sell it? lol i want a second 1 as long it has unlockable lvl 3 cache


yup it is. LOL!.
i sold it to my sis so yup.. LOL. couldnt bear to let go of it and i didnt have any decent offers on the local forums at my side..
iirc. my chip did 3.66ghz @ 1.45v 2.82ghz nb @ 1.325v
on a colorful c.a790gx x3 d3. it was a great chip.


----------



## bennieboi6969

im at 3.7 and still could go more if i tried but i think thats high enough lol


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12357209*
> im at 3.7 and still could go more if i tried but i think thats high enough lol


mine does have room . i was using my true black still. i nvr put it under water


----------



## Diplo

Hello guys,

im using the xspc360/heatkiller 3.0 and my [email protected]@4.2ghz @1.36v hitting the 75° on prime in-place-large FFT.
idle is around 42°.

thermal compound is the artic silver 5.

still too hot or?


----------



## Havoknova

Xspc peeps out here got a question..is the xspc res/pump strong enough to pump 1-rx360 and 1-rs240 rads on my future loop???coz i want the coldest setup i can..planing to buy my loop next week so im gathering as much intel i can get..thanks in advance..


----------



## Saeid

my xspc x2o 750 pump is dead after 4 months







now I am back on intel stock cooler omg QQ bang bang


----------



## metroidfreak

Full load temps of both my cpu and gpu is 36C. I still have 2 more fans to add in there lol.

Just curious, anyone happen to have the blue LED molex thing they don't want? $4 + $10 shipping is a no go for me.

Hmm.... Should my cpu be at 42-4646 while my gpu is at 36 both under 100% load?? My cpu is even before the gpu in the loop.


----------



## mbudden

Updated the Owners spreadsheet. We have 108 people in the club








I might have missed a few people, if you don't see your name on the list. Let me know.
Will be updating the OP shortly.


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12358134*
> Xspc peeps out here got a question..is the xspc res/pump strong enough to pump 1-rx360 and 1-rs240 rads on my future loop???coz i want the coldest setup i can..planing to buy my loop next week so im gathering as much intel i can get..thanks in advance..


Yes it can. I'm running a cpu, gpu, and dual 240 rads.

To: Mbudden

I'm no longer pending, full pics and work log in my sig


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saeid;12358289*
> my xspc x2o 750 pump is dead after 4 months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I am back on intel stock cooler omg QQ bang bang


u contacted xspc? :] friend got his replaced.. i havnt had time to get mine RMAed


----------



## mbudden

Ugh. I need help with making a FAQ.
Anyone want to help?

I have these two gems of information.
http://www.overclock.net/12328570-post3835.html
http://www.overclock.net/12330902-post3845.html


----------



## Espair

Is the FAQ going to include general watercooling questions? Or just related to rasa kits? Both those link take up a fair bit of space and are alerady well organized maybe leave them as links with titles /shrug.

I know my concerns in this thread were about coolant options and noise level of the pump.

(yay i got added to the list


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12358912*
> Yes it can. I'm running a cpu, gpu, and dual 240 rads.
> 
> To: Mbudden
> 
> I'm no longer pending, full pics and work log in my sig


Thanks...ordered the rs240 kit and bought an extra rx360 for my dual rad setup.. Hehehe


----------



## mbudden

I think most will pertain about the RASA kit. I know a lot of people come in here asking if the H50/H70 is better/worse than the RASA kit. Or people come in asking about the performance of the kit etc. etc. Just questions related to the kit. I won't be putting it in the OP. But I will be making a post here that is dedicated to the FAQ. It will basically be linked in the OP.

Basically the usual questions pertaining the kit. And basic WC'ing questions like coolant, distilled water etc. Since this is a n00bie kit. You will have people coming in here that never have watercooled before.

Also, when going through the thread. I noticed you said to add you like twice. Some people even like 3-4 times. I felt really bad. But I think I got everyone that asked to be in the group. But I think there is some people I missed... But I don't think I missed too many.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ferocity;12217221*
> Directed to Replin:
> 
> Based on what I have gathered between you, Jab-Tech, and XSPC, it seems highly unlikely that you will ever get a refund and/or a replacement from either.
> 
> Based on what you explained Jab-tech seems like they tried brush you off by making it a time consuming and costly process to get it returned. Then he responded back with you sending the unit to the manufacturer and they send the fixed one back to you so that you can send it to Jab-Tech. The problem there is that its obviously a very time-consuming and costly approach, which is naturally what you want to avoid. The shipping costs to and from the manufacturer plus the new unit back to Jab-Tech would easily cost $40+ dollars including your gas from your car traveling to and from post office, would end up exceeding the value of the pump/res of $50. The cost-benefit of returning the pump would be a waste of your time. Jabtech knows this.
> 
> Since you are supposedly one of the few that had problems with their kit then they won't care if you complain or try to return it because you are nothing to them or their sales margins.
> 
> Now they are proposing you send the rad back to them to see if it was you that broke it? Heres the major flaw in that. Since they obviously don't want to help you, what makes you think they won't break it themselves and then take pics of it, post it on the forum and prove to everyone that you broke it.
> 
> Bottom line you are screwed, even if you are telling the truth they won't help you. They made that clear. Even though they all of a sudden offered to do something nice for you and cover your costs, that's just to save face and make you feel good when in the end they are just going to screw you over. Bottom line swallow the cost of the lost rad and send them your pump/res for a possible refund if they mean it. Then buy yourself a Thermochill triple rad from either koolertek, xoxide, frozencpu, etc&#8230;. I recommend koolertek. Then install that, and your good to go. You already have a swiftech pump, dedicated res, xspsc rasa cpu block (I assume your keeping that).
> 
> Moral of the story, you get what you pay for. It might work now for those people but I have a feeling that kit will fail quickly over time. Give it a year. Please chime in to let me know how the new rad works out for you and if they refunded you for the pump/res.


I found this really funny when I was going through the ~300 posts lol. This user has one post and it was directed towards Replin.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12329195*
> somebody who has way too much money should test each of the kits with setups.
> 
> Do like cpu only test with RS120, RS240, RX120
> 
> Then do Cpu and GPU with RX240, RS360, RX360.
> 
> and then do a dual gpu loop with the RX360.


If I had too much money and too much time on my hands. I would.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12358912*
> Yes it can. I'm running a cpu, gpu, and dual 240 rads.
> 
> To: Mbudden
> 
> I'm no longer pending, full pics and work log in my sig


Ah okay. That's why I ask people to post their pictures in here so I don't have to go off into different threads and check for pictures. If you could, could you post your pictures in here?


----------



## Yukss

look what just came today


----------



## metroidfreak

Let there be pictures!!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;12359348*
> look what just came today


now lets see it installed!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12359901*
> Let there be pictures!!


will add you in one second


----------



## Havoknova

What kind u feser UV fluid is better on UV light...

Red?blue? Or acid green..

What do u guys prefer??i got black interior and black and red motherboard..


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


What kind u feser UV fluid is better on UV light...

Red?blue? Or acid green..

What do u guys prefer??i got black interior and black and red motherboard..


Don't over pay for fluid that will clog your blocks and you will have to replace a lot, spend the money on uv tubing from primochill and use just distilled water.


----------



## PulkPull

I have searched and searched but I am unable to come up with an answer.

Is the TIM that comes with this kit any good? Reason I ask, and a long story short is I have a removed waterblock, empty tube of GC-extreme (didn't check to see if it was empty before I removed the block...), and arctic silver 5 and the TIM that comes with the rasa kit to choose from. Which should I use?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


I have searched and searched but I am unable to come up with an answer.

Is the TIM that comes with this kit any good? Reason I ask, and a long story short is I have a removed waterblock, empty tube of GC-extreme (didn't check to see if it was empty before I removed the block...), and arctic silver 5 and the TIM that comes with the rasa kit to choose from. Which should I use?


The tim isn't bad, but I wouldn't call it really good.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


I have searched and searched but I am unable to come up with an answer.

Is the TIM that comes with this kit any good? Reason I ask, and a long story short is I have a removed waterblock, empty tube of GC-extreme (didn't check to see if it was empty before I removed the block...), and arctic silver 5 and the TIM that comes with the rasa kit to choose from. Which should I use?


AS5. Hands down. I have no clue what TIM is included with the kit.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


AS5. Hands down. I have no clue what TIM is included with the kit.


I just got finished installing the block with the AS5 and man.... it sucks. I am seeing ~4c higher temps folding the same WU as I was with the GC-extreme. And this is with slightly lower ambient due to my computer not pumping heat into my room for the last hour. And.... my loops water has not even had a chance to stabilize, I'd bet the loop stabilizing while negate any "break in" the AS5 is spose to have.

I am going to remount, and if I see the same results.... dare I say it... I will give the rasa kit stuff a try.

Be right back, going to remount and order some more GC-extreme.


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969*


all good this is my setup it goes pump rad block block res



Nice


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


I just got finished installing the block with the AS5 and man.... it sucks. I am seeing ~4c higher temps folding the same WU as I was with the GC-extreme. And this is with slightly lower ambient due to my computer not pumping heat into my room for the last hour. And.... my loops water has not even had a chance to stabilize, I'd bet the loop stabilizing while negate any "break in" the AS5 is spose to have.

I am going to remount, and if I see the same results.... dare I say it... I will give the rasa kit stuff a try.

Be right back, going to remount and order some more GC-extreme.


AS5 work after 10days also........


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


AS5 work after 10days also........










Huh?









If you mean break in, I know there is a 200 hour break in with AS5. In the 15 years that I have built computers I have always been OBSESSED with lowering temps. I used AS5 exclusively up until I discovered GC-Extreme a few years back, and I never noticed a temp lowering break in with AS5.


----------



## sgilmore62

Yeah, I think it takes 45 days or something like that for AS5 to cure. I used Tuniq TX4 and there is no curing time. Used it for CPU and GPU's and temps are pretty good. I spread a really thin coat(like the directions) then put a bead in the center. It was like $14 from the egg but still have alot left after spreading CPU and 2 GPU cores.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


Huh?









If you mean break in, I know there is a 200 hour break in with AS5. In the 15 years that I have built computers I have always been OBSESSED with lowering temps. I used AS5 exclusively up until I discovered GC-Extreme a few years back, and I never noticed a temp lowering break in with AS5.


I have. I use AS5. At first temps are a normal, after a while you see them go down. Never see any problems with AS5 here.


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


Huh?









If you mean break in, I know there is a 200 hour break in with AS5. In the 15 years that I have built computers I have always been OBSESSED with lowering temps. I used AS5 exclusively up until I discovered GC-Extreme a few years back, and I never noticed a temp lowering break in with AS5.


My Mistake


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Don't over pay for fluid that will clog your blocks and you will have to replace a lot, spend the money on uv tubing from primochill and use just distilled water.


Does the uv tubes have the same effect as the uv water???


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Does the uv tubes have the same effect as the uv water???


pretty much, plus you can use distilled water and not have to worry about your blocks getting clogged, you having to change the fluid, or pay way too much for fluid.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Does the uv tubes have the same effect as the uv water???


Basically. And the added benefit of not gumming up your CPU block.


----------



## replin

What kind of UV light bulbs would you suggest to make my system glow? I bought 2 from frozen cpu and they are very dim purpleish. I'm using 2 bottles of Primochill PC ICE and 3 dye bombs. I think I put too much. I'll just drain some of it and dilute it with a third bottle. I'm using UV Black/Blue. It looks pale blue under uv light. How can I make it really glow like other peoples system are. Now that I know to use UV tubing its too late so I'll just stick with this. Can someone give me advice on how much dye bomb to use and the cold cathodes I should buy?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *replin*


What kind of UV light bulbs would you suggest to make my system glow? I bought 2 from frozen cpu and they are very dim purpleish. I'm using 2 bottles of Primochill PC ICE and 3 dye bombs. I think I put too much. I'll just drain some of it and dilute it with a third bottle. I'm using UV Black/Blue. It looks pale blue under uv light. How can I make it really glow like other peoples system are. Now that I know to use UV tubing its too late so I'll just stick with this. Can someone give me advice on how much dye bomb to use and the cold cathodes I should buy?


Not UV light bulbs. UV CCFL's. Another thing, like mentioned. People are using UV tubing, that's why it comes out with a better result. I believe with UV dye, less is better. UV light is perceived by the human eye as a shade of purple.


----------



## thrasherht

here are some ultra bright UV cold cathodes. You can buy a second bulb to hook to the inverter.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/29...l?tl=g6c75s132


----------



## thrasherht

use this for tubing. good stuff.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82...?tl=g30c99s809


----------



## mbudden

+1 for Primochill


----------



## Bal3Wolf

+1000 for Primochill lol the stuff owns and it does not kink easy even bending it to a kink it pops back on its own.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


pretty much, plus you can use distilled water and not have to worry about your blocks getting clogged, you having to change the fluid, or pay way too much for fluid.











got it!!!! getting the uv acid green tubes or the uv red tubes..thanks


----------



## kingofyo1

If you want to see some pics of what the UV greens from FCPU look like under UV, check some of my pics in gallery


----------



## metroidfreak

Wow frozen CPU wants nothing to do with after sales support and xspc has made me send 5 videos to them so far, the guy is trying to compare and say the one from 3 feet away is better than the one up close. Wow really? I never would have guessed that...

I can hear the pump in the hallway outside my room. He says the pump should be 42dbs max, I'm guessing that would be much more than 42dbs if I can easily hear it that far. My fish tank isn't even this loud.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12370092*
> Wow frozen CPU wants nothing to do with after sales support and xspc has made me send 5 videos to them so far, the guy is trying to compare and say the one from 3 feet away is better than the one up close. Wow really? I never would have guessed that...
> 
> I can hear the pump in the hallway outside my room. He says the pump should be 42dbs max, I'm guessing that would be much more than 42dbs if I can easily hear it that far. My fish tank isn't even this loud.


wow,my pump/res. is extremely quiet.


----------



## mbudden

FrozenCPU has nothing to do with this. It's XSPC that you will need to be dealing with. It's their pump, it's their warranty. Unfortunately maybe it's a bad video? Not sounding too loud from it? I don't know.


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12370110*
> wow,my pump/res. is extremely quiet.


If possible can you make a short 5 second or so video? That way I have a comparison video. My friends is really quiet too, I didn't even know he had it running.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12370121*
> FrozenCPU has nothing to do with this. It's XSPC that you will need to be dealing with. It's their pump, it's their warranty. Unfortunately maybe it's a bad video? Not sounding too loud from it? I don't know.


Yeah I know. It's just a pain. I took 5 videos. He's basing the sound difference on the fact the video is 3 feet farther away, not on the fact that there is no difference from the video with 8 fans running, and the video with none.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12370092*
> Wow frozen CPU wants nothing to do with after sales support and xspc has made me send 5 videos to them so far, the guy is trying to compare and say the one from 3 feet away is better than the one up close. Wow really? I never would have guessed that...
> 
> I *can hear the pump in the hallway outside my room.* He says the pump should be 42dbs max, I'm guessing that would be much more than 42dbs if I can easily hear it that far. My fish tank isn't even this loud.


WOW!?!?! lol really?
have u gotten All of the bubbles out of ur loop :/

i couldnt hear mine when it was like 1ft away from me. O.O


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


If possible can you make a short 5 second or so video? That way I have a comparison video. My friends is really quiet too, I didn't even know he had it running.

Yeah I know. It's just a pain. I took 5 videos. He's basing the sound difference on the fact the video is 3 feet farther away, not on the fact that there is no difference from the video with 8 fans running, and the video with none.


i see what i can do,eating right now.and all i have is a camera,but it has a video setting.


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


i see what i can do,eating right now.and all i have is a camera,but it has a video setting.


That's what I used, so that's fine. Thank you!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


WOW!?!?! lol really? 
have u gotten All of the bubbles out of ur loop :/


Yup, but there was no difference from when the entire loop was full of big bubbles and now, there some stuck on the bottom of the pump, but that's it and they're not moving.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


That's what I used, so that's fine. Thank you!


also to let you know,i have my pump/res.as full as i could get it.meaning i have very little air in my res.


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12370168*
> also to let you know,i have my pump/res.as full as i could get it.meaning i have very little air in my res.


There is about a centimeter of space left in mine. I don't think that would make a difference?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12370186*
> There is about a centimeter of space left in mine. I don't think that would make a difference?


Mine isn't filled all the way and I have no issues?


----------



## terence52

hmm.. somehow my pump is making a hdd type of noise. its quite audible thou.
suspect it may get nosier when my cases arrives. do i need to rma it?


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terence52;12370305*
> hmm.. somehow my pump is making a hdd type of noise. its quite audible thou.
> suspect it may get nosier when my cases arrives. do i need to rma it?


Prepare to make a lot of videos if you have to, HDD amount of noise would be okay under their terms.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Think an RS240 can handle an i7 and 6950? The 6950's stock mostly (unlocked shaders) and don't intend to OC it much. I'm trying to figure if I can somehow fit a 360 but perhaps an RX240 would be more manageable.

Planning to mount externally on top of the case, with the lines running through the top of the case as well through this nifty little hole I'm gonna drill and grommet up.










Gonna remove the SATA interface for now, but I could probably leave it in with some smooth 90 degree SATA & power cables. For now it's a stupid thing to put in a case that now has some useful function- ducting rad tubing!

This was the original planned design- didn't like the idea of super long tubes curving back into the case. Looks as weird to me as those USB3 front bay extensions that attach to the rear of the motherboard and feed back through the case.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terence52;12370305*
> hmm.. somehow my pump is making a hdd type of noise. its quite audible thou.
> suspect it may get nosier when my cases arrives. do i need to rma it?


Mine sounds the same. I thought my hdd's were running







when I found out it was the pump. I think it's normal. I have a DDC pump in right now and I prefer the X20 pumps chatter over the constant mosquito whine of the DDC.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12363325*
> Not UV light bulbs. UV CCFL's. Another thing, like mentioned. People are using UV tubing, that's why it comes out with a better result. I believe with UV dye, less is better. UV light is perceived by the human eye as a shade of purple.


CCFL is what I meant. Just didn't remember the acronym. I'll get UV tubing next time. I think I broke the dial on my Swiftech MCP655. The dial wouldn't turn past setting 2 and finally i applied a little more pressure and it snapped and now its loose and goes to any setting. I tried turning it up when it was off and on and still wouldnt go past setting 2. I finally applied a little more force and it snapped. Now when I turn the setting down to 1 it stays at that speed and wont go to anything else now. I tried 2, 3, 4, and 5 and still runs at setting 1. The flow meter doesnt spin faster. Damn this swiftech pump sucks.


----------



## replin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12363662*
> here are some ultra bright UV cold cathodes. You can buy a second bulb to hook to the inverter.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2992/lit-23/12_Cold_Cathode_Kit_Dual_Ready_-_Ultra_Bright_UV.html?tl=g6c75s132


I used this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2998/lit-46/Dual_12_Cold_Cathode_Kit_-_Ultra_Bright_UV.html?id=uG4y2axB&mv_pc=205

And it wasn't the blue shaded version it was dim purple like the link you showed me. So they sent me the wrong stuff. Hooray for frozen cpu. I've read they do this sort of thing.


----------



## Espair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12370251*
> Mine isn't filled all the way and I have no issues?


Thats a lot of extra room, I leave about 1cm :x

And fish tank noise is norm. Up to 42 db to be exact.


----------



## metroidfreak

I said my fish tank is quieter. So this is definitely not normal.


----------



## Kick

Im wondering what's wrong with my kit

Im running a 2600k Ht on with 1.27 volts during [email protected] and my temps are at mid 50's max.

ambients are at 23-25, nothing too extreme

loop is x20 pump/res > rs360 rad > rasa > rs240 rad > back to respump

3 gt15's at near max speed for the 360 rad and 2 yate loon high speed for the rs240

looking through a few screenies of other people's results, my temps = what an aircooler gets -_-

ive opened the block and nothin was wrong with it. ive cleaned it, etc. all rads were flushed and when i first took the loop apart to replace hose, the fittings were clean too.

running distilled + silver coil.

at about 1.4v with 5ghz, it's near 80c.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Espair;12374088*
> Thats a lot of extra room, I leave about 1cm :x
> 
> And fish tank noise is norm. Up to 42 db to be exact.


Yeah. Not that I didn't have any water left, just got lazy. Last time it was filled to the top.


----------



## sgilmore62

Quote:


> Im wondering what's wrong with my kit
> 
> Im running a 2600k Ht on with 1.27 volts during [email protected] and my temps are at mid 50's max.
> 
> ambients are at 23-25, nothing too extreme
> 
> loop is x20 pump/res > rs360 rad > rasa > rs240 rad > back to respump
> 
> 3 gt15's at near max speed for the 360 rad and 2 yate loon high speed for the rs240
> 
> looking through a few screenies of other people's results, my temps = what an aircooler gets -_-
> 
> ive opened the block and nothin was wrong with it. ive cleaned it, etc. all rads were flushed and when i first took the loop apart to replace hose, the fittings were clean too.
> 
> running distilled + silver coil.
> 
> at about 1.4v with 5ghz, it's near 80c


Might want to double check your mounting of the Rasa. What TIM did you use and how was it applied?


----------



## mbudden

Make sure you didn't use too much TIM.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12375006*
> I said my fish tank is quieter. So this is definitely not normal.


Actually, I've had several aquarium pumps from Ehiem, Hydor, etc. and its on par sound wise, at least with my pump.


----------



## AMOCO

Here is my pump/res. noise:[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UH8r1xZ26F8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UH8r1xZ26F8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UH8r1xZ26F8[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## mbudden

Doesn't sound too bad.


----------



## mbudden

FAQ
(Frequently Asked Questions)

*What size barbs come with the kit?*
G1/4" to 1/2" barbs.

*What size tubing comes with the kit?*
7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD

*How much tubing comes with the kit?*
2 meters of clear tubing.

*Should I get dye or tubing?*
Tubing, it's been found that dye clogs your loop. Here is a good read. Part I, Part II

*Do you need anything else other than what comes with kit?*
Yes. A silver killcoil or PTNuke & some distilled water.

*Is the thermal paste that comes with the kit any good?*
From what owners have said, it's not the greatest. Pick up some quality TIM.

*Is this kit better than the H50/H70?*
Yes.

*Does the kit come with a AMD back plate?*
No. It does not, but thrasherht made a mod using the stock back plate. Here.

*What is the difference between the kits?*
Kingofyo1 made a nifty post about this, here.

*What if you bought all the pieces separately?*
Well, you'd be paying more. Bal3Wolf made a post about this, here.

*I have a question about rotaries and compression fittings and the lot?*
Look at this post from liquoredonlife here, take your time. Watch the videos, very informative.

*How do I install the AMD bracket to the Water Block that's included with the kit?*
Take a look at this picture here.

*What size screws for the radiator?*
XSPC uses 6-32 threaded screws. If you're going to use a shroud and fan, get 6-32 x 2.5" screws.

*What is up with my tubing? Why is it not clear?*
It's called plasticizer, as SimpleTech mentioned here. Kahbrohn explains some of the reasons why it might happen, here. If you want clear tubing that won't do this, look at this post.

*What kind of fans are needed for the kit?*
Low Speed fans - RX series
High Speed fans - RS series

*What are the dimensions of the rads?*
RS120
Dimensions: 121x35x155mm (WxDxH)
RS240
Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)
RS360
Dimensions: 121x35x397mm (WxDxH)
RX120
Dimensions: 124x63x164mm (WxDxH)
RX240
Dimensions: 124x63x280mm (WxDxH
RX360
Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH)
RX480
Dimensions: 124x63x520mm (WxDxH)


----------



## mbudden

If anyone has anything to add to the FAQ, let me know.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Can you use a fan controller with the pump? What's the stall voltage, and what's the absolute minimum you should run it? Locating a 4pin molex fan can controller at the moment. Something like these-

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998129&cm_re=fan_controller-_-11-998-129-_-Product

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Pin-Molex-Adjustable-Fan-Speed-Controller-Heatsink-/220725559715?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336444c1a3#ht_500wt_922

edit

Just found this on FrozenCPU:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9091/bus-191/Manual_12V_Variable_Speed_Controller_-_4-Pin_Molex_Connector.html?tl=g47c17s239

Argh, need to add it to my massive order I placed earlier today.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12376238*
> Can you use a fan controller with the pump? What's the stall voltage, and what's the absolute minimum you should run it? Locating a 4pin molex fan can controller at the moment. Something like these-


Is there a reason why? They pump is virtually silent anyways. Not to mention, you will probably degrade the life of the pump by undervolting it.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12376349*
> Is there a reason why? They pump is virtually silent anyways. Not to mention, you will probably degrade the life of the pump by undervolting it.


I've seen a handful of videos where it seemed loud, at least early on. I understand that it gets quieter as bubbles leave or whatnot, but I did see a fair amount of mention that bringing the voltage down to around 7V made the pump virtually silent (sound perception is really a personal thing).

I can solder a variable resistor myself to some molex connectors, just need to know what ohm range I'm looking for.

Sweet, stumbled upon this.

The pump runs at 10W on 12V if I'm not mistaken, putting it at .83A.

According to this review-
Quote:


> The X2O 750 pump has no problems operating from 5V up to 15V. Unfortunately, 15V is the maximum voltage for the Meanwell unit; this is where the test was stopped. Unfortunately the flow or performance increases aren't enough to justify the heat dump and noise from the pump at high voltage.


Yeah, so I pretty much just answered my own question.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12376478*
> I've seen a handful of videos where it seemed loud, at least early on. I understand that it gets quieter as bubbles leave or whatnot, but I did see a fair amount of mention that bringing the voltage down to around 7V made the pump virtually silent (sound perception is really a personal thing).


Interesting. Well, one of those will do. To be honest. My pump isn't loud at all. I can barely hear it until I put my ear up to it. Some people have been getting bad batches, and that's understandable.


----------



## Gigabytedude24

well i end up pulling the trigger on this kit today. I end up geting the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Kit. with the kill coil and http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8277/ex-tub-434/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_UV_Green.html?tl=g30c99s809


----------



## Gigabytedude24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12376544*
> Interesting. Well, one of those will do. To be honest. My pump isn't loud at all. I can barely hear it until I put my ear up to it. Some people have been getting bad batches, and that's understandable.


Is there a part number on the pump? Or some kinda batch number?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gigabytedude24;12377733*
> Is there a part number on the pump? Or some kinda batch number?


These are the only #'s on my old pump


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12377879*
> These are the only #'s on my old pump


Interesting. I don't think mine had a sticker on it.


----------



## j0035

i dont have mine all the way filled. anyone know a good case a 240 will fit in?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0035;12378414*
> i dont have mine all the way filled. anyone know a good case a 240 will fit in?


HAF cases.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12375832*
> Here is my pump/res. noise:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UH8r1xZ26F8


Does it sound as loud once you close the case up? What distance did you make the video at?


----------



## rather_be_surfin

going to mount my rad after i get off work today and finally finish the loop. I hope i can get in on the mass OC buy of gentle typhoons so i can get a push pull going on my radiator.


----------



## jdpkeeper

Here's my entry into water cooling, and joing the club


----------



## mbudden

Is that the Delta waterblock?


----------



## jdpkeeper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Is that the Delta waterblock?


ahh yeah, just realized that, guess i don't really qualify to join


----------



## kingofyo1

if any of your parts are xspc, you're up to join the club


----------



## Havoknova

Happy valentine rasa peeps have a wonderfull cold cpu,mosfet,nb,sb and most of all gpu to you all!!!!! Next week ill be joining the club!!!


----------



## metroidfreak

Well after 6 videos of my own, a video from another member on here, and about a dozen emails at 1 in the morning to china. He is completely refusing to replace it. The res was chipped on the intake hole, the cable leaked even after i cranked it down and made it look horrible, which I had to seal with super glue, and now the noise it's making. In order to drown out the sound of sitting next to it, I have to turn my stereo up half way, which can be heard in the dorm up stairs. Something tells me that means it's louder than 42dbs.

I asked to talk to some sort of management if they even have any...


----------



## yoyo711

UV LED light for XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25 Bay Pump/Reservoir
is it 5mm or 3mm?????









please let me know

thanks


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


UV LED light for XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25 Bay Pump/Reservoir
is it 5mm or 3mm?????









please let me know

thanks


5mm


----------



## mbudden

Uh. 5mm?


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


5mm


thanks


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Uh. 5mm?


LOL, ninja.


----------



## mbudden




----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*












yea, I saw that. lol.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


yea, I saw that. lol.

















lies. lies.
LOL


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


lies. lies.
LOL










Two camels in a tiny car.

I win.


----------



## mbudden

Haha.
I did think it was a 3mm LED though.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Haha.
I did think it was a 3mm LED though.


nah, just go look at the specs for the pump, it states 5mm.


----------



## Bastyn99

Good news everyone!
So, its been nearly a months since I installed my Rasa kit and everything is still running fine. Actually its running better. When I first installed it, I got some rattling noise that was quite loud and annoying coming from the pump, like so many other people did. Some people told me to get it replaced but I didnt wanna go through the hassle of taking it all apart and putting it together again, so I decided just to live with it. And now, almost a month later, the rattling noise is nearly gone. I can barely hear it anymore, and it seems to be getting better all the time. Seems it was just airbubbles in the system.
So to all you new guys, be patient! You might not need to RMA a rattling pump. Give it some time, its likely just air


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


Good news everyone!
So, its been nearly a months since I installed my Rasa kit and everything is still running fine. Actually its running better. When I first installed it, I got some rattling noise that was quite loud and annoying coming from the pump, like so many other people did. Some people told me to get it replaced but I didnt wanna go through the hassle of taking it all apart and putting it together again, so I decided just to live with it. And now, almost a month later, the rattling noise is nearly gone. I can barely hear it anymore, and it seems to be getting better all the time. Seems it was just airbubbles in the system.
So to all you new guys, be patient! You might not need to RMA a rattling pump. Give it some time, its likely just air










Wife's orders at this point... :-( But glad to hear it worked out for you though. Makes it all the more mysterious then.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastyn99*


Good news everyone!
So, its been nearly a months since I installed my Rasa kit and everything is still running fine. Actually its running better. When I first installed it, I got some rattling noise that was quite loud and annoying coming from the pump, like so many other people did. Some people told me to get it replaced but I didnt wanna go through the hassle of taking it all apart and putting it together again, so I decided just to live with it. And now, almost a month later, the rattling noise is nearly gone. I can barely hear it anymore, and it seems to be getting better all the time. Seems it was just airbubbles in the system.
So to all you new guys, be patient! You might not need to RMA a rattling pump. Give it some time, its likely just air











Yup, same here.


----------



## Kahbrohn

I have been tempted to do the "single drop of dawn" thing just to see.


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12386093*
> I have been tempted to do the "single drop of dawn" thing just to see.


Please explain this?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12388202*
> Please explain this?


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/504378-watercooling-additives.html

breaks surface tension?


----------



## metroidfreak

Alright, would this help with a the little bubbles I have stuck to the edges to the res? I've shaken it around, but they won't come free.


----------



## mbudden

Mine were like that, but they eventually find their way.


----------



## metroidfreak

Keep the res closed and keep it running pretty much? It appears there is a bubble stuck where the water is sucked in... no idea how to get that loose when I dont have enough room to turn the res over.

Should I just carefully flip the case over to get it to float up?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12388540*
> Keep the res closed and keep it running pretty much? It appears there is a bubble stuck where the water is sucked in... no idea how to get that loose when I dont have enough room to turn the res over.
> 
> Should I just carefully flip the case over to get it to float up?


Over time those bubbles go away, the small bubble that is at the top of that little hood takes the longest to go away, but it should go away within a month.


----------



## mbudden

I wouldn't shake it etc too much. Could introduce more bubbles.


----------



## Dissentience

Put my kit together today








27C idle, 40C full load

Because of space restrictions, I had to have the radiator outside of the case. I used the included radiator mounting brackets as feet to elevate the rad off the ground.

Add me to the club?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Put my kit together today








27C idle, 40C full load

Because of space restrictions, I had to have the radiator outside of the case. I used the included radiator mounting brackets as feet to elevate the rad off the ground.

Add me to the club?










Why didn't you just mount it on the back of your case using those mounts, just mount it to the 120mm fan in the back.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...additives.html

breaks surface tension?


This... Breaking surface tension should help "loosen" any left over bubbles in the loop. I am pretty sure all the bubbles are gone from my loop but just in case. I have one of those rattling pumps and I am just basically trying to do whatever I can to fix it while I wait for the new pumps to arrive sometime this week at the distributors stores. If I can avoid RMA'ing, I will.


----------



## Gigabytedude24

This makes me feel some what better.


----------



## mbudden

What does?


----------



## sgilmore62

You can get a radiator stand so you don't have to leave it laying flat like that. Probably not the best performance with it laying flat like that.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...m_Spacing.html


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Why didn't you just mount it on the back of your case using those mounts, just mount it to the 120mm fan in the back.


This.

I have the same case as you. Mounted it on the back.


----------



## hoody1601

Add me.
I have the 240.
its not arrived yet, but it will be here in a few hours


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Add me to the club?










Added.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hoody1601*


Add me.


Added.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Put my kit together today








27C idle, 40C full load

Because of space restrictions, I had to have the radiator outside of the case. I used the included radiator mounting brackets as feet to elevate the rad off the ground.

Add me to the club?










LOL, good God man, it looks like your computer barfed up a rad. You might want to rethink your set-up.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


LOL, good God man, it looks like your computer barfed up a rad. You might want to rethink your set-up.











But..... it is working though!!! BARFED RAD FTW!

Location... Location... Location...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Put my kit together today








27C idle, 40C full load

Because of space restrictions, I had to have the radiator outside of the case. I used the included radiator mounting brackets as feet to elevate the rad off the ground.

Add me to the club?










Whats ur ambiant temp?? Whats ur cpu running at??

Thats y i ask is my noctua nh-d14 at idle its around 30-32c at 70f at 4.0ghz...


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Why didn't you just mount it on the back of your case using those mounts, just mount it to the 120mm fan in the back.


My VGA and HDMI cables that plug in to my graphics card are in the way.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


LOL, good God man, it looks like your computer barfed up a rad. You might want to rethink your set-up.










Hahaha. Hey it works. Eventually I will get a rad stand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Whats ur ambiant temp?? Whats ur cpu running at??

Thats y i ask is my noctua nh-d14 at idle its around 30-32c at 70f at 4.0ghz...


Ambient is about 20C. CPU is at 4 GHz (1.44v)


----------



## Havoknova

Well the idle is not that good from a high end aircooler but that full load 40c is the ****..still looking to get this kit..got 3 more days to go before i pull the trigger..

Im actually doin a side by side comparison right now with ekwb piece by piece custom loop and this rasa kit + custom tubing..

Still debating but will see..but the full load amazed me hehe..keep it up..
Btw ur rad infron dosnt look good at all looks like a puke from the mouth of ur tower lolz..wahahah


----------



## Dissentience

Overnight, the temps got down to 19C

And I don't really care if it looks bad, the system works, has no leaks, and you can't even see it when I push it back under my desk.


----------



## Exodus927

Add me please. I have the RS240. I'll add some pictures when I get home.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Overnight, the temps got down to 19C

And I don't really care if it looks bad, the system works, has no leaks, and you can't even see it when I push it back under my desk.


All that matters is the temps..well thats what im talkin about 19c ftw..leaning on the watercooling now coz my nb is kinda hot 3000-3250 so i need to water cool it..now that u mention that 19c now im definitly goin to get this kit..wahahah


----------



## Exodus927

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


All that matters is the temps..well thats what im talkin about 19c ftw..leaning on the watercooling now coz my nb is kinda hot 3000-3250 so i need to water cool it..now that u mention that 19c now im definitly goin to get this kit..wahahah


Definitely worth it for the price, this kit is great.


----------



## Silomatic

Give it up to Dazhong! Let us pray lol


----------



## RaCeR123

So I have the RS360 running now for almost a week. While the temps are better than my hyper 212+, they aren't a lot better (talking like 3-5C). I was wondering how good are the fans that came with the kit? Are they just generic cheap fans or should I just suck it up buy some nicer quality fans, would I see temperature differences? I have it inside my HAF-X case so the top 2 200mm fans are pulling the air out of the radiator while the bottom 3 fans are pushing the air into it.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12396574*
> So I have the RS360 running now for almost a week. While the temps are better than my hyper 212+, they aren't a lot better (talking like 3-5C). I was wondering how good are the fans that came with the kit? Are they just generic cheap fans or should I just suck it up buy some nicer quality fans, would I see temperature differences? I have it inside my HAF-X case so the top 2 200mm fans are pulling the air out of the radiator while the bottom 3 fans are pushing the air into it.


I have the RS360 kit and I have amazing temps. What is your clock speed. I am using the stock fans too, just blowing air up through the top of my phantom.

I get 43c max load temp at 4ghz with 1.42volts.


----------



## RaCeR123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12396652*
> I have the RS360 kit and I have amazing temps. What is your clock speed. I am using the stock fans too, just blowing air up through the top of my phantom.
> 
> I get 43c max load temp at 4ghz with 1.42volts.


I just went down to 3.8 yesterday but been running at 4.1 @1.5 volts for most of it. Currently back down to 3.8 @ 1.46 (haven't played with voltage should be able to reduce to almost stock)


----------



## smoochee

Add me to this club, I have a RS240 kit.

got my proc at 3.2ghz sitting at 28-30C depending on room temp. Temps might be lower if my pc wasnt placed near the heating vent....

Heres my buildlog


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12396719*
> I just went down to 3.8 yesterday but been running at 4.1 @1.5 volts for most of it. Currently back down to 3.8 @ 1.46 (haven't played with voltage should be able to reduce to almost stock)


Whats ur ambiant temp??idle temp and max load temp on ur 4.1ghz setup...What else do u got on ur loop??


----------



## Exodus927

Pictures of mine! Cant wait for my sleeving to get here.

Just removed my gpu, bubbles are gone now.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exodus927;12397360*
> Pictures of mine! Cant wait for my sleeving to get here.
> 
> Just removed my gpu, bubbles are gone now.


Nice green loop setup..cant wait get mine too..


----------



## nicksasa

It should arrive here tomorrow ...







Can't wait.


----------



## Haze80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exodus927;12397360*
> Pictures of mine! Cant wait for my sleeving to get here.
> 
> Just removed my gpu, bubbles are gone now.


That tube seems pretty pretty close to that fan blade.
Luv that color though


----------



## mbudden

Hey guys, I will be adding people to the list and also taking pics myself


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12393987*
> My VGA and HDMI cables that plug in to my graphics card are in the way.
> 
> Hahaha. Hey it works. Eventually I will get a rad stand
> 
> Ambient is about 20C. CPU is at 4 GHz (1.44v)


Those are good temps. My RX 750 set-up with 4.12 Ghz at 1.55 volts runs max temp 43-44 C at 20 C ambient. This is my 24/7 overclock.

P.S. I have my rad mounted at 90 degrees at back of case with some simple L shaped brackets that you can buy for about 30 cents at any hardware store. Stays out of the way of plugs at back of case and provides excellent cooling...see pics.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12398228*
> P.S. I have my rad mounted at 90 degrees at back of case with some simple L shaped brackets that you can buy for about 30 cents at any hardware store. Stays out of the way of plugs at back of case and provides excellent cooling...see pics.


Nice setup... +rep to ya. That may provide me with an idea or two when I redo my setup in a few weeks.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12398228*
> Those are good temps. My RX 750 set-up with 4.12 Ghz at 1.55 volts runs max temp 43-44 C at 20 C ambient. This is my 24/7 overclock.
> 
> P.S. I have my rad mounted at 90 degrees at back of case with some simple L shaped brackets that you can buy for about 30 cents at any hardware store. Stays out of the way of plugs at back of case and provides excellent cooling...see pics.


Looks good man, I will have to do something like this. I probably will rearrange everything when my system's due for a cleaning, right now I see now problem with my setup.

I'm probably gonna buy a Scythe 3.5" fan controller to control the radiator fans


----------



## Exodus927

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze80;12397999*
> That tube seems pretty pretty close to that fan blade.
> Luv that color though


It is really close, but it's in just the right place that it doesn't move.


----------



## mbudden

Alright guys. As promised. Pics & temps.
Folding away right now on both CPU/GPU.
As you can see, high 40's on both the CPU/GPU.
Not too bad really. I will be making shrouds for the fans on the rad.
I believe that will also help with temps


----------



## HiLuckyB

Wow that tubing turned brown


----------



## Exodus927

The tubing in these kits seems to stain really quickly. Brown though? That had to have been in there a while.


----------



## mbudden

3 months since I've had the kit. Going on 4. The tubing turns milky. Then turns brown. Have changed the water four times by now, the water is clear as day. Will be buying some Primochill tubing.


----------



## Exodus927

I went with Primochill about a month after buying the kit. Looks great, especially with the UV light on it.


----------



## thrasherht

From the pic it seems the brown is only where there are bends in it.

EDIT: get some blue tubing and put some UV lights in it.


----------



## Kick

amazon is the place for primochill tubing w/prime =)

also, xspc's customer service seems to hate me. they dont respond to me no matter what name/email i use LOL.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exodus927;12399450*
> I went with Primochill about a month after buying the kit. Looks great, especially with the UV light on it.


Yeah.







Already have the UV lights.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12399476*
> From the pic it seems the brown is only where there are bends in it.
> 
> EDIT: get some blue tubing and put some UV lights in it.


I was thinking either blue or white. Gigabyte colors. & already have 2 UV tubes in there. But you're correct about the tubing, in some places. It's darker than others. Near the barbs, it's light brown. In the middle, dark brown. Don't know why


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12399526*
> Yeah.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have the UV lights.
> 
> I was thinking either blue or white. Gigabyte colors. & already have 2 UV tubes in there. But you're correct about the tubing, in some places. It's darker than others. Near the barbs, it's light brown. In the middle, dark brown. Don't know why


all i know is that after i took my original tubing out ( about close to a month ) it stank =( but water was clear, silver coil was fine, all fittings were clean, etc.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12399548*
> all i know is that after i took my original tubing out ( about close to a month ) it stank =( but water was clear, silver coil was fine, all fittings were clean, etc.


Interesting. I trimmed some pieces down for the GPU block (conservative because I knew I might WC the GPU). It didn't smell at all. Just smelt like regular tubing lol.


----------



## Kick

very. distilled + silver coil

it was awhile ago and maybe im exaggerating, but i didnt like the smell haha


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12399660*
> very. distilled + silver coil
> 
> it was awhile ago and maybe im exaggerating, but i didnt like the smell haha


Same here, distilled & kill coil.
The tubing smells like poo. LOL.
I remember someone posting about what happens to the tubing.
I can't remember what it's called. Some fancy term.


----------



## MorbEIn

Hey there guys, just want to ask something, im seriously on the edge of pressing the 'buy' button for a XSPC rasa rx360.

will this be enough to cool the cpu and 1 6870? i dont have the money to buy 2 GPu blocks at the moment... will i need extra tubing? or the tubing provided will be enough? extra barbs as well right? once installed, when i get my 2nd GPu block, will the rx360 able to handle a cpu and 2 GPU's?

sorry for all the questions... didnt want to make a new thread when i can just ask through teh club itself ^_^

thanks

edit: when bulldozer comes out, i can still use this kit right? when i upgrade to am3+


----------



## Yukss

update


----------



## RaCeR123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12396982*
> Whats ur ambiant temp??idle temp and max load temp on ur 4.1ghz setup...What else do u got on ur loop??


It idles around 34C and goes up to around 49C, got nothing else in my loop besides the CPU at the moment. It goes RES - RAD - CPU - RES


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12399689*
> Hey there guys, just want to ask something, im seriously on the edge of pressing the 'buy' button for a XSPC rasa rx360.
> 
> will this be enough to cool the cpu and 1 6870? i dont have the money to buy 2 GPu blocks at the moment... will i need extra tubing? or the tubing provided will be enough? extra barbs as well right? once installed, when i get my 2nd GPu block, will the rx360 able to handle a cpu and 2 GPU's?
> 
> sorry for all the questions... didnt want to make a new thread when i can just ask through teh club itself ^_^
> 
> thanks
> 
> edit: when bulldozer comes out, i can still use this kit right? when i upgrade to am3+


Should be fine.

if you have 20 bucks go to amazon and grab some primochill tubing, but if you're going to buy another wb for your gpu, then wait till then and then switch out all the tubing.

with the xspc tubing, you want to try and switch it out asap- but if you cannot, then it would be fine. worst case is it turning brown and smelling like poo....*stares at budden
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;12399873*
> update


very nice =)


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exodus927;12394253*
> Add me please. I have the RS240. I'll add some pictures when I get home.


Added.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silomatic;12395649*
> Give it up to Dazhong! Let us pray lol











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoochee;12396783*
> Add me to this club, I have a RS240 kit.
> 
> got my proc at 3.2ghz sitting at 28-30C depending on room temp. Temps might be lower if my pc wasnt placed near the heating vent....
> 
> Heres my buildlog


Post some pics here so I could link them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exodus927;12397360*
> Pictures of mine! Cant wait for my sleeving to get here.
> 
> Just removed my gpu, bubbles are gone now.


Added the pictures.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;12399873*
> update


Added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12399898*
> It idles around 34C and goes up to around 49C, got nothing else in my loop besides the CPU at the moment. It goes RES - RAD - CPU - RES


Added you.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12399681*
> Same here, distilled & kill coil.
> The tubing smells like poo. LOL.
> I remember someone posting about what happens to the tubing.
> I can't remember what it's called. Some fancy term.


I think that the major weakness of this kit has to be the supplied tubing, which is surprising. You'd think that for a measly extra $5 bucks they could have provided some decent 1/2" ID tubing. Instead they provide this really thin walled, cheap stuff that after three months looks like it's host to a large and thriving algae colony. Kind of sad for an otherwise fantastic kit.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12400304*
> I think that the major weakness of this kit has to be the supplied tubing, which is surprising. You'd think that for a measly extra $5 bucks they could have provided some decent 1/2" ID tubing. Instead they provide this really thin walled, cheap stuff that after three months looks like it's host to a large and thriving algae colony. Kind of sad for an otherwise fantastic kit.


Yeah. Oh well, tubing can always be fixed. Same with the fans.


----------



## sub7m19

Ive been looking at these kits for a while now for my q6600. So im getting really close to purchasing one of these kits. However, I am not sure which would would best suit my quad and possibly a newer quad later down the road. Atm im running my quad at v1.38 - v1.4 @ 3.2ghz I know there is a lot of more OC potential ^_^


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sub7m19;12400545*
> Ive been looking at these kits for a while now for my q6600. So im getting really close to purchasing one of these kits. However, I am not sure which would would best suit my quad and possibly a newer quad later down the road. Atm im running my quad at v1.38 - v1.4 @ 3.2ghz I know there is a lot of more OC potential ^_^


Will you be looking to add GPU's to the loop later on down the road? Or will this be a CPU only thing?


----------



## mbudden

Found this video, he's installing a XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit









[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3i9EV3P9gQ[/ame]

He's also done it with a RX/RS120

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6qpkigby5w[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzBBjkIw7wU[/ame]


----------



## Yukss

such a bad temps rigth ?

my vga is in the loop too..

ps. i´m using the TIM that comes with the kit..


----------



## RaCeR123

So I need a little advise. I bought red primochill UV tubing for my watercooling setup. Everything is fine except with the tubing being UV (and I don't have any lighting inside the case) the tubing look somewhat orange, I don't like the color. So here comes the advise part, what would be some good cathodes (in case lighting) that would look nice with the red UV tubing?


----------



## Exodus927

I'm running a Logisys cathode at the moment. I'd recommend a set of those.


----------



## RaCeR123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exodus927;12402923*
> I'm running a Logisys cathode at the moment. I'd recommend a set of those.


Thanks for the quick reply, now I am curious what do you guys think would look better with the HAF-X case (everything I have is red). The red cathode = http://www.amazon.com/CATHODE-BRIGHT-COMPUTER-ACCENT-INCHES/dp/B002EOD52A/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1297833017&sr=1-2-spell or would something like this = http://www.amazon.com/WHITE-CATHODE-BRIGHT-INCHES-COMPUTER/dp/B000JQ17WU/]404 Looking for Something?[/URL] be better for it

EDIT: AMAZON is messing up my links. Would red cathodes look better or should I get white cathodes?


----------



## selectstriker2

my Rasa RS240 kit arrives tomorrow, ill post pics once i get my system put back together


----------



## Haze80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;12402528*
> such a bad temps rigth ?
> 
> my vga is in the loop too..
> 
> ps. i´m using the TIM that comes with the kit..


Those temperatures are plain horrible. I get better temps with my eco coolit 26c idles and 75 load. either somethings wrong in your setup seating or configuration wise or their tim just straight up sucks. 2 cents


----------



## Haze80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selectstriker2;12403030*
> my Rasa RS240 kit arrives tomorrow, ill post pics once i get my system put back together


please do. I still got to figure out how much breakage I got to do to my antec 300 to fit all of this inside.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yukss*


such a bad temps rigth ?

my vga is in the loop too..

ps. iÂ´m using the TIM that comes with the kit..


Get some better Tim!


----------



## fireisdangerous84

When i purchase this kit it want to get UV red tubing but cannot find it in the same size as the tubing that comes with this kit, ive found every other colour apart from red!!

Another quick question, thoe of you who have black tubing, how do u tell when all the air is out your tubes if you can see into them

Blimey i really need to updat my sig!!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


When i purchase this kit it want to get UV red tubing but cannot find it in the same size as the tubing that comes with this kit, ive found every other colour apart from red!!

Another quick question, thoe of you who have black tubing, how do u tell when all the air is out your tubes if you can see into them

Blimey i really need to updat my sig!!


here is uv red tubing
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82...?tl=g30c99s809


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yukss*


such a bad temps rigth ?

my vga is in the loop too..

ps. iÂ´m using the TIM that comes with the kit..


All I see are idle temps. Maybe take a screen shot with IBT running and not coming off of load.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


So I need a little advise. I bought red primochill UV tubing for my watercooling setup. Everything is fine except with the tubing being UV (and I don't have any lighting inside the case) the tubing look somewhat orange, I don't like the color. So here comes the advise part, what would be some good cathodes (in case lighting) that would look nice with the red UV tubing?


UV CCFL's. Amazon it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


Thanks for the quick reply, now I am curious what do you guys think would look better with the HAF-X case (everything I have is red). The red cathode = 404 Looking for Something? be better for it

EDIT: AMAZON is messing up my links. Would red cathodes look better or should I get white cathodes?


Realize that Red or White CCFL's are not UV.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Haze80*


Those temperatures are plain horrible. I get better temps with my eco coolit 26c idles and 75 load. either somethings wrong in your setup seating or configuration wise or their tim just straight up sucks. 2 cents


What're you talking about? The picture he has posted shows his processor coming off into idle after a IBT run.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Get some better Tim!


I'd recommend this. The TIM that comes with the kit isn't the greatest thing in the world.


----------



## Exodus927

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


Thanks for the quick reply, now I am curious what do you guys think would look better with the HAF-X case (everything I have is red). The red cathode = 404 Looking for Something? be better for it

EDIT: AMAZON is messing up my links. Would red cathodes look better or should I get white cathodes?



Red ones will give you a red glow to your case, UV lights will give your tubing a more solid color like this (see attachment). Personally, I have mine with a UV light because I think it looks cooler (green is mine).


----------



## bennieboi6969

i just have blue leds and blue fans and my green comes up real well


----------



## nicksasa

Yes i know i used the intel mount, not the amd one ... will fix that when i replace tim but it still covers the whole block.

















DVD drive is in my server atm ...

Sorry for the low quality photo's, my camera's battery is charging so i used my android phone.

Load temps on stock cpu is 33°C(ambient 21°C)









Edit:
Went for 4ghz, wasn't stable on 1.48V so i just bumped it to 1.52V and it's stable (bot only tested for like 30 min). And load temps are amazing








BTW 4Ghz wasn't stable even with 1.57V on my CM 212+ ...


----------



## Nugz

Bought the Rasa 750 RX240 kit from JabTech yesterday and it should be here tomarrow. I'm still confused on if I want to put it in a case or use it on my bench table.

I have to many computers lol

here is some.
i7 930 @ 4.4ghz 1.38v, EVGA FTW3, TRUE Air cooled Lian-li PC-A05B
2500k @ 4.8ghz 1.40v, TP67EX Biostar, TRUE Air cooled Lian-li PC-T60 bench
Q9550 @ 3.6ghz 1.18v, DFI TR2R-X48, Cheap 3 heat pipe cooler Lian-li PC-A05B
E8400 @ 3.6ghz 1.12v, DFI....... lol I have more and I have phase change

I just wanted to get back into water cooling and after all the reviews XSPC was the price to perfomance king. I put half of the parts in the kit in my cart and it was over $200, so for $169 for the RX240 kit, it's a deal.


----------



## thrasherht

OMG, I finally have pictures.

I haven't been able to upload for a few days. But here are some of my good pictures of my rig.


----------



## mbudden

Primochill UV Blue tubing? Will be adding everyone in a bit


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12409204*
> Primochill UV Blue tubing? Will be adding everyone in a bit


nope, Feser UV blue tubing. That stuff is pretty damn thick.
It is 1/2in ID and 3/4in OD. LOL.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8672/ex-tub-464/25_Meter_8_feet_Feser_Tube_Active_UV_Hose_-_Retail_Packed_-_12_ID_34OD_Anti-Kink_Tubing_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c99s172


----------



## mbudden

Ah. Went with the bigger tubing I see


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12409247*
> Ah. Went with the bigger tubing I see


I wish I would have gone with the primochill 7/16in ID stuff.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8276/ex-tub-433/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c99s809

But since this was my first loop, I didn't really know what I wanted. So now I know.


----------



## nicksasa

Am I the only one that thinks that the angled Intel top with black screws looks much nicer then the amd bracket with the silver screws ? I see no reason why i shouldn't be using it except that it blocks the first ram slot


----------



## yoyo711

I'm thinking getting A MCP350 Pumps how is the noise ?????

thanks


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12409348*
> Am I the only one that thinks that the angled Intel top with black screws looks much nicer then the amd bracket with the silver screws ? I see no reason why i shouldn't be using it except that it blocks the first ram slot


I actually like the AMD bracket, I like it only because it makes it look more industrial, while the intel bracket is more stylized. I like having bolts rather then the thin screw nob things with the intel bracket.


----------



## Yukss

i just bougth and apply the original TIM for a new one, TG1 from thermaltake and im now testing the temps i can easily see an improvement..

default TIM


Thermaltake TG1


----------



## yoyo711

I set the xspc rase 750 rs360 kit cpu waterblock out hose ---> Radiator ---> radiator out ---> Reservoir & pump to cpu waterblock in. this is my set up
but whan i looking at the youtube cpu waterblock out hose ---> reservoir & pump ---> Radiator ---> cpu waterblock in

Which is correct Please let me know ????

thanks


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;12409454*
> i just bougth and apply the original TIM for a new one, TG1 from thermaltake and im now testing the temps i can easily see an improvement..
> 
> default TIM
> 
> 
> Thermaltake TG1


Nice


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;12409605*
> I set the xspc rase 750 rs360 kit cpu waterblock out hose ---> Radiator ---> radiator out ---> Reservoir & pump to cpu waterblock in. this is my set up
> but whan i looking at the youtube cpu waterblock out hose ---> reservoir & pump ---> Radiator ---> cpu waterblock in
> 
> Which is correct Please let me know ????
> 
> thanks


It doesn't matter. I have mine going

res/pump -> rad -> block -> res/pump

your method just puts all the cold water into the res before getting pumped into the block.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12409285*
> I wish I would have gone with the primochill 7/16in ID stuff.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8276/ex-tub-433/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c99s809
> 
> But since this was my first loop, I didn't really know what I wanted. So now I know.


I will be ordering my Primochill off of Amazon. 10ft for 16$. Cheaper than FrozenCPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12409348*
> Am I the only one that thinks that the angled Intel top with black screws looks much nicer then the amd bracket with the silver screws ? I see no reason why i shouldn't be using it except that it blocks the first ram slot


The Intel Screws look good. But I thought you could use them on the AMD as well. At least I thought someone did on here?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;12409369*
> I'm thinking getting A MCP350 Pumps how is the noise ?????
> 
> thanks


Not sure. We all have RASA's. But hopefully someone that upgraded will tell you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12409421*
> I actually like the AMD bracket, I like it only because it makes it look more industrial, while the intel bracket is more stylized. I like having bolts rather then the thin screw nob things with the intel bracket.


Eh. The knobs are alright. Nothing amazing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;12409605*
> I set the xspc rase 750 rs360 kit cpu waterblock out hose ---> Radiator ---> radiator out ---> Reservoir & pump to cpu waterblock in. this is my set up
> but whan i looking at the youtube cpu waterblock out hose ---> reservoir & pump ---> Radiator ---> cpu waterblock in
> 
> Which is correct Please let me know ????
> 
> thanks


I have mine like this. Res/Pump Out > CPU In, CPU Out > WC Block In, WC Block Out > Rad In, Rad Out > Res/Pump In

It doesn't really matter though.


----------



## Kick

yeah, amazon's price is hard to beat, cheapest i've seen is like 1.60 for a foot, but factor in shipping and amazon wins.


----------



## Exodus927

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


I set the xspc rase 750 rs360 kit cpu waterblock out hose ---> Radiator ---> radiator out ---> Reservoir & pump to cpu waterblock in. this is my set up 
but whan i looking at the youtube cpu waterblock out hose ---> reservoir & pump ---> Radiator ---> cpu waterblock in

Which is correct Please let me know ????

thanks


I've done both. If you can, take it as quickly as possible from the rad to the cpu. Takes temps down just a little.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


I wish I would have gone with the primochill 7/16in ID stuff.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82...?tl=g30c99s809

But since this was my first loop, I didn't really know what I wanted. So now I know.


The 1/2" ID Feser One Blue UV tubing is great...even without UV light (I only have blue LEDs)


----------



## Annex

Is modding the amd backplate absolutely necessary? I'm considering one of these kits as they're affordable and pretty much the next step up for cooling my cpu.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


I'm thinking getting A MCP350 Pumps how is the noise ?????

thanks


The MCP350 pump has a faint high pitch whine compared to the XSPC X20 750 pump reservoir unit. The X20 750 pump has a slight noise that sounds like a hard drive running, at least for me, when it mounted. I find its the impeller shifting left to right on the shaft and it will change it sound if tilted left or right in most cases. The MCP350 pump has the same noise in any position that doesn't induce air into the impellers.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


Is modding the amd backplate absolutely necessary? I'm considering one of these kits as they're affordable and pretty much the next step up for cooling my cpu.


Not really. Just some people do get worried about bending the motherboard. If you don't over tighten the hold down screws, you'll be fine.


----------



## Live_free

I got my primochill from jab tech, 1.60 per foot. I got 20ft just in case. :3

Quick question if you spot gunk in your system the only way to clean everything out is to take apart EVERY block and res/rad and clean it all out, right?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


Is modding the amd backplate absolutely necessary? I'm considering one of these kits as they're affordable and pretty much the next step up for cooling my cpu.


It isn't nessecary, but it is highly recommended to have some sort of backplate. This prevents the pressure from bending your board. The backplate takes the force of the pressure rather then your board having to hold it, Temp mounting without a backplate is fine, but long term it can really make your board bend a lot.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12412017*
> I got my primochill from jab tech, 1.60 per foot. I got 20ft just in case. :3
> 
> Quick question if you spot gunk in your system the only way to clean everything out is to take apart EVERY block and res/rad and clean it all out, right?


20ft? Doubt you need that much.
But it's recommended if you find gunk to clean everything else out.
Don't have to, but it's what I'd do.


----------



## mbudden

Added people/pictures to the list.


----------



## Live_free

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12412046*
> 20ft? Doubt you need that much.
> But it's recommended if you find gunk to clean everything else out.
> Don't have to, but it's what I'd do.


That would require taking apart all my blocks and rad/res correct? Just wondering because I have to replace my rad this weekend and my temps at 66-67c at 4.3Ghz 1.34v which seems a little high. So just in case I find any gunk I know what to do.

What temps should I be getting at those settings?


----------



## Exodus927

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12412215*
> That would require taking apart all my blocks and rad/res correct? Just wondering because I have to replace my rad this weekend and my temps at 66-67c at 4.3Ghz 1.34v which seems a little high. So just in case I find any gunk I know what to do.
> 
> What temps should I be getting at those settings?


Temps sound pretty good to me. My i7 930 wont do 4.2 on any less than 1.4v core and I get a max of 70C load. You've got a gpu in there as well.

Edit: I have a 240 rad, so I'd say you're doing good with a gpu and cpu on a 360.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12412215*
> That would require taking apart all my blocks and rad/res correct? Just wondering because I have to replace my rad this weekend and my temps at 66-67c at 4.3Ghz 1.34v which seems a little high. So just in case I find any gunk I know what to do.
> 
> What temps should I be getting at those settings?


Nothing wrong with taking the blocks apart. Before I added my GPU WB, I took it apart and gave it a good cleaning.

Not sure what rad you have, but the heat comes from the added voltage. The more voltage, the more heat. If you don't need to be at 4.3Ghz, then just bring it down a bit.

That's what I did, 4.2Ghz was nice. But it through out so much heat. Now @ 4Ghz. Heat isn't as bad. This was needed because I added the GPU WB.

From what I have seen with the i7's. 60's seem to be the norm.


----------



## Annex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12412019*
> It isn't nessecary, but it is highly recommended to have some sort of backplate. This prevents the pressure from bending your board. The backplate takes the force of the pressure rather then your board having to hold it, Temp mounting without a backplate is fine, but long term it can really make your board bend a lot.


I'm definitely not planning to mount without one, but I don't have the tools(or desire) for modding, and it'd add to the overall price (and complexity) of the kit if I had to buy specific tools just to utilize my backplate properly.

thanks for the help


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12411083*
> The 1/2" ID Feser One Blue UV tubing is great...even without UV light (I only have blue LEDs)


is there to much different betwen the 7/16 tubing and the 1/2 tubing.. my curent tubing is primochill 7/16

.............................

i just bougth and apply the original TIM for a new one, TG1 from thermaltake and im now testing the temps i can easily see an improvement..

default TIM


Thermaltake TG1


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;12412991*
> is there to much different betwen the 7/16 tubing and the 1/2 tubing.. my curent tubing is primochill 7/16


Not really. Just the 7/16 tubing fits over the 1/2 barbs tighter.


----------



## Exodus927

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12413049*
> Not really. Just the 7/16 tubing fits over the 1/2 barbs tighter.


Much tighter if you go with the Primochill stuff. I hate taking apart my loop for that reason, it holds the barbs really tight.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;12412991*
> is there to much different betwen the 7/16 tubing and the 1/2 tubing.. my curent tubing is primochill 7/16


With 7/16" ID hose, you don't really need clamps on 1/2" barbs. With 1/2" ID hose, you will need clamps for sure.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;12412839*
> I'm definitely not planning to mount without one, but I don't have the tools(or desire) for modding, and it'd add to the overall price (and complexity) of the kit if I had to buy specific tools just to utilize my backplate properly.
> 
> thanks for the help


The black screws that came with the kit screwed right in to my motherboard's stock AM3 backplate with no issues


----------



## Live_free

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Nothing wrong with taking the blocks apart. Before I added my GPU WB, I took it apart and gave it a good cleaning.

Not sure what rad you have, but the heat comes from the added voltage. The more voltage, the more heat. If you don't need to be at 4.3Ghz, then just bring it down a bit.

That's what I did, 4.2Ghz was nice. But it through out so much heat. Now @ 4Ghz. Heat isn't as bad. This was needed because I added the GPU WB.

From what I have seen with the i7's. 60's seem to be the norm.










1.34v 4.3Ghz i7 950

1.125v 950 core GTX 580

On a RX360.

66-67c 4.3Ghz max load 
56-63c 4.0Ghz max load

GPU 
40-45c Max Load

Good temps? I thought the CPU should be at around 60-63 at those settings.

And the reason I don't want to take apart all my blocks if for fear of messing them up 1. And two because I don't know where I could get new .5mm and 1mm thermal pads for my GTX 580 block.


----------



## Mr.Zergling

So, How well did I do with thermal paste if full folding load (for days) raises my temp to 52 with ambients of 16.3, considering my 4.7ghz @ 1.42v OC


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


1.34v 4.3Ghz i7 950

1.125v 950 core GTX 580

On a RX360.

66-67c 4.3Ghz max load 
56-63c 4.0Ghz max load

GPU 
40-45c Max Load

Good temps? I thought the CPU should be at around 60-63 at those settings.

And the reason I don't want to take apart all my blocks if for fear of messing them up 1. And two because I don't know where I could get new .5mm and 1mm thermal pads for my GTX 580 block.


Looks good to me. While folding my CPU gets ~50C and my GPU stays ~45C. Granted my E5300 isn't a i7. But it does put out some heat, so does my 8800GT and this is on a RS240 rad w/ the fans that came with the kit. I say your temps look great.

I feel you on not wanting to take it apart. When I took apart the EK waterblock for my GPU. I thought it would be a PITA. But it wasn't. Pretty simple. Just got to make sure you put the gasket back in the right place. But thermal pads? Either EK or buy them from say FrozenCPU or the such. Someone sent me some of their left over EK ones. It's not like you need a bunch of them


----------



## thrasherht

We should get a graph going, for different CPU's and the temps they get with different kits. Just so people can see the performance to expect from a kit.


----------



## mbudden

I would love to. But people don't like taking ACTUAL before and after screen shots.
I would love to go by word of mouth. But it's not as much proof as screen shots are.
Why do you think I've asked people to do before and afters? Because people would rather see a screen shot, then go by someones word of mouth.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I would love to. But people don't like taking ACTUAL before and after screen shots.
I would love to go by word of mouth. But it's not as much proof as screen shots are.
Why do you think I've asked people to do before and afters? Because people would rather see a screen shot, then go by someones word of mouth.


No, just after. like have.

i7 950 @ 4ghz @ (voltage)

RS240mm (temp)
RX240mm (temp)
RS360mm (temp)
RX360mm (temp)

You know just like a few different graphics showing some popular CPU's with temps of the different kits. so people just have a general idea of how well it will cool their chip.


----------



## Mr.Zergling

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I would love to. But people don't like taking ACTUAL before and after screen shots.
I would love to go by word of mouth. But it's not as much proof as screen shots are.
Why do you think I've asked people to do before and afters? Because people would rather see a screen shot, then go by someones word of mouth.


I don't have any befores on this system :/ lol


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


The black screws that came with the kit screwed right in to my motherboard's stock AM3 backplate with no issues


I have a MSI 870A-G54 backplate which has the standoffs that aren't threaded all the way through. Looks like your motherboard uses the same backplate.

Think that might have something to do with it?


----------



## Live_free

If we decide to do that I could give temps at several different settings for both an i7 and a 580.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;12409369*
> I'm thinking getting A MCP350 Pumps how is the noise ?????
> 
> thanks


[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3XAu4OVktM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3XAu4OVktM"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3XAu4OVktM[/ame[/URL]]

Here is what the MCP350 10 watt DDC-1 pump sound like with the XSPC reservoir.


----------



## ezveedub

Here is what the normal, or least what my XSPC X20 750 pump sounds like outside just by itself. It is fairly quiet IMO.

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6yJbNACW5Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6yJbNACW5Y"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6yJbNACW5Y[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## jamborhgini313

my pump just started to make some HDD type noise


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12416798*
> my pump just started to make some HDD type noise


Yes, thats what mine started to do. I think if you take it out and lay the pump on its side (impeller side down) and let it run for a while, it seems to quiet it down when re-installed in the case.


----------



## ezveedub

OK, here is another video of the XSPC X20 750 pump. If you look when I tilt the reservoir, you can hear the pump change sounds and get louder.

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXsVwlDtS6k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXsVwlDtS6k"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXsVwlDtS6k[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## wermad

the ddc 3.2 (ie mcp 355) is pretty noisy at first, once the air has bled, its pretty quiet about the same as the x20-750 tbh.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12416920*
> OK, here is another video of the XSPC X20 750 pump. If you look when I tilt the reservoir, you can hear the pump change sounds and get louder.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXsVwlDtS6k


Fill it up just a bit more maybe? My rattling does not vary at all no matter what angle I place the res at.


----------



## mbudden

I don't see how you guys are having problems. Mine is seriously, dead silent.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12418139*
> I don't see how you guys are having problems. Mine is seriously, dead silent.


same here


----------



## mbudden

When I say dead silent. I mean, dead silent. I couldn't take a video if I wanted.


----------



## ezveedub

That pump in the video is quiet. I have to put the camera all the way up to the reservoir so you can hear the sound. When it was in my case, it would have and on & off type sound that makes it sound like a HDD running. Obviously that's not the case with my DDC pump. That does have an audible noise at all times. I know someone who got two of the DDCs and gave up and went the D5 route instead. The video were just for reference for some who wanted to know what the pumps sounds are. Your not going to run away from the X20 750 pump for what little noise it makes with an alternative Laing pump, so if ypur pump is working fine, let it be.


----------



## metroidfreak

So xspc is utterly refusing to replace this reservoir. The sound hasn't gotten any better after over a week straight of running 24/7. He also seems to be completely ignoring the fact that the inlet hole was chipped and that the power cable leaks, even after he told me to tighten it even harder than it was.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12419041*
> So xspc is utterly refusing to replace this reservoir. The sound hasn't gotten any better after over a week straight of running 24/7. He also seems to be completely ignoring the fact that the inlet hole was chipped and that the power cable leaks, even after he told me to tighten it even harder than it was.


I do know that there has been a short delay in getting the new assemblies out so maybe that is the reason they have not stated that they woulkd send out a replacement.

I have been told about the delay and that I would be advised as to the expected completion of the work being done and when I would/could be receiving a replacement.


----------



## mbudden




----------



## man00

mine was making noise also, you will waste lots of time dealing with them. Just buy a different brand.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *man00;12420071*
> mine was making noise also, you will waste lots of time dealing with them. Just buy a different brand.


That is an option as well all though after thinking about it, it would place my present investment at a level comparable of having bought a higher end kit. I will personally wait it out and see. If within 3-4 weeks there is no result, then I may pursue this course of action. Also, I have seen a few posts of people stating that after a "month" the rattling quieted down... so... let's see. I am on record with them so time is no longer an issue imo.

Besides... it's free nagging from me to Mrs. Kah and she CAN'T say diddly squat about it! She's a bigger cheapskate than I am!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12418158*
> When I say dead silent. I mean, dead silent. I couldn't take a video if I wanted.


Same here.


----------



## nicksasa

The only time it made sound was the first time i started it and there was some air in the pump. Now it has a very very slight hum when there are no fans running or anything but otherwise you can't hear it.


----------



## spoolindsm127

I will also chime in and say that my res/pump is completely silent.

At first it was slightly audible due to air trapped in the pump. I had also thought maybe something was wrong with the pump but soon realized the sound was slowly diminishing. I could sometimes hear bubbles gushing and purging through the pump.

It has been running for close to two months now and all the bubbles have left the system. Like mbudden said, it's dead silent.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ok then... Tonight when I get home and after my firsdt ceremonial beer (I call it my "day-winding-down-beer") I will try a suggestion I saw from a fellow OCN'er here to place a single drop of dishwashing sop in my res. This should help to loosen any remaining bubbles all though this is my second pump and it's been going at it for about 2-3 weeks already with no signs of diminishing.

What the heck... will be fun. Too bad it's not Mr. Bubbles... Wife uses apple scented Dawn so I should have the most aromatic water loop around!


----------



## AMDMAXX

just a fyi... if you thought your pump was bad or loud... newegg has a sale going on for scythe fans... I just picked up 4 for 30 bucks... they're rated at 40dba and move 110 CFM... I'm probably going to have to pick up a fan controller soon but it'll be worth it... I mostly wear noise cancelling headphones anyways...


----------



## Silomatic

I didnt have any issues getting a replacement for my pump/res. Sucks that some of you are having trouble with this. Dazhong just sent me a new one that is dead silent. Hell The last thing I heard from him was he needed an address conformation. Four days later Fed Ex was at my door with it. Funny thing is I had no idea he even sent it yet.


----------



## metroidfreak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I do know that there has been a short delay in getting the new assemblies out so maybe that is the reason they have not stated that they woulkd send out a replacement.

I have been told about the delay and that I would be advised as to the expected completion of the work being done and when I would/could be receiving a replacement.


It's not because of a delay, he's flat out saying no and that the sound is normal after jumping through hoops to get multiple videos.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silomatic*


I didnt have any issues getting a replacement for my pump/res. Sucks that some of you are having trouble with this. Dazhong just sent me a new one that is dead silent. Hell The last thing I heard from him was he needed an address conformation. Four days later Fed Ex was at my door with it. Funny thing is I had no idea he even sent it yet.


He has those shipped out of their Texas facility. Just out of curiosity... how long ago was this?

Yes, it is a shame but molds unfortunately do wear out or get banged up. It's just bad luck. What I sometimes lost sight of at the beginning was that even though there was noise, the loop worked as intended so my first expedition into thge wtaer cooling world was not all that bad. Had a bit of bad luck? Yeah... I did. But I shut down my computer at night to sleep. I don't fold or anything so I don't have to put up with the rattling.

I will say this though... the small amount of time the replacement I was sent worked, it was dead silent. I mean, I had to look at the monitor and the mobo lights just to make sure the computer was on. That's why I know this will work.

Faith... that's all I need and not much of it.


----------



## hot120

Yes, I was told my sound was normal as well. I guess you can consider anything 'normal' when enough people pony up and say it happens to them too. Anyway, like everyone else, I will be waiting on further word about the new, improved pumps and whether I will get a replacement or not. I am really tempted to just get another resevoir (the Koolance RP series is SO SWEET!), but I will wait this out. I can deal with the noise of the pump, but I should not have to. That is the issue.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


He has those shipped out of their Texas facility. Just out of curiosity... how long ago was this?

Yes, it is a shame but molds unfortunately do wear out or get banged up. It's just bad luck. What I sometimes lost sight of at the beginning was that even though there was noise, the loop worked as intended so my first expedition into thge wtaer cooling world was not all that bad. Had a bit of bad luck? Yeah... I did. But I shut down my computer at night to sleep. I don't fold or anything so I don't have to put up with the rattling.

I will say this though... the small amount of time the replacement I was sent worked, it was dead silent. I mean, I had to look at the monitor and the mobo lights just to make sure the computer was on. That's why I know this will work.

Faith... that's all I need and not much of it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hot120*


Yes, I was told my sound was normal as well. I guess you can consider anything 'normal' when enough people pony up and say it happens to them too. Anyway, like everyone else, I will be waiting on further word about the new, improved pumps and whether I will get a replacement or not. I am really tempted to just get another resevoir (the Koolance RP series is SO SWEET!), but I will wait this out. I can deal with the noise of the pump, *but I should not have to. That is the issue.*


Exactly... I could not agree more.


----------



## solar0987

Question about the rs 240 kit

how strong is the pump
i plan on adding another res and mosfet/nb/gpu blocks
do i need another pump or is the one that came with the kit sufficient

can i mount the res/pump combo somewhere other than the drive bays?

your feedback is much appreciated


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Question about the rs 240 kit

how strong is the pump
i plan on adding another res and mosfet/nb/gpu blocks
do i need another pump or is the one that came with the kit sufficient

can i mount the res/pump combo somewhere other than the drive bays?

your feedback is much appreciated


To cool all of that I would honestly suggest you look at the RX360 rad right off the bat. Maybe even an additional 240 (I'm leaning to the RX though) in your loop. Then, I would also say yes... you may have to think of a stronger pump. The kit pump (as per the general opinion here) is that the pump/res that comes with the kit is good for the CPU and a GPU. Beyond that you may want a bit more umph from your pump.


----------



## solar0987

i plan on adding a dd x flow 240 rad
and i want the rads to stay inside my case so the 360 is out of the question
would it be sufficient to say run 2 of the res.pump in the same loop

and can i place the res/pump somewhere other than the drive bays?

id get a diff pump but im worried they would fight each other since they will most def be diff lph specs


----------



## Blameless

The H20 750 pump isn't that strong. One CPU Block + one low restriction GPU block + rad is about the most you'd want to put on it.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blameless*


The H20 750 pump isn't that strong. One CPU Block + one low restriction GPU block + rad is about the most you'd want to put on it.


i got all this and have no issues;
XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25â€ Bay Reservoir Pump > XSPC Rasa Black CPU WaterBlock > Black Ice Pro 120mm Radiator > Koolance MB-ASC3F(ASUS Crosshair III Formula) WaterBlock > XSPC RS360 BLACK Radiator.


----------



## metroidfreak

Other than my noise, Im running 2 240mm rads, the CPU, an MCW80 gpu block, and an mcw60 gpu block no problem.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;12425513*
> The H20 750 pump isn't that strong. One CPU Block + one low restriction GPU block + rad is about the most you'd want to put on it.


Wermad had 3 ek 470 blocks and the rasa cpu block on his 750 and it kept up till he upgraded his pump.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12426422*
> Wermad had 3 ek 470 blocks and the rasa cpu block on his 750 and it kept up till he upgraded his pump.


Actually, it was an EK Supreme HF, EK Asus Rampage III Extreme mb fullcover block, and three EK gtx 470 blocks using an EK bridge









At most, I would recommend cpu + 2x gpu blocks and that itself is a bit too much in the long run imo. Keep in mind the cost-cutting xspc did to achieve these great prices will reflect on some of the components, most notably the paint on the rad and the integrated pump. if you're planning a bigger and more complex loop, either get a more powerful pump or run dual loops using 2nd x20-750.

For a more powerful pump, consider the DDC w/ an aftermarket top/res and/or the D5.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

the d5 pump works great to im powering 1x rasa cpu block 1x 5870 ek block and a rx360 rad and rx240 probly about 4-5 feet of tubing.


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12426688*
> the d5 pump works great to im powering 1x rasa cpu block 1x 5870 ek block and a rx360 rad and rx240 probly about 4-5 feet of tubing.


How does the noise of the D5 compare to the X2O-750?

Also can anyone comment on which one is louder, the DDC or D5?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

my d5 i have inside a xspc res and theirs pretty much 0 noise putting my ear to the res and i can barely even hear it. The ddc is a louder pump then the d5 from what iv seen on the forums jonesy has a d5 to and iv seen him say he cant hear his either.


----------



## solar0987

so if i had 2 of the res/pumps on 1 loop would that be ok as i dont want 2 diff loops

and can i mount the pump/res on the bottom of my case


----------



## mbudden

I don't think there is any benefit to having two pumps in a loop?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

you dont need 2 pumps if you thk your loops is going to be to big go with a d5 or ddc pump instead.


----------



## solar0987

so if there was a pump say before all the blocks then one after it wouldnt make a diff?\
sorry for a ll the questions but tommorow my tax money will be here and im making my order
to finish my case mod's


----------



## Bal3Wolf

no once you get a certain rate of flow the temps arent going to be any better really by increasing it.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12428971*
> no once you get a certain rate of flow the temps arent going to be any better really by increasing it.


im not saying better temps im saying more pump action w/e the word for that is maybe "pressure" throught the loop
and ty for all the help it is much appreciated


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;12428998*
> im not saying better temps im saying more pump action w/e the word for that is maybe "pressure" throught the loop


how many blocks are you planning to run? if you are only running one cpu and one or two gpu blocks, this kits pump, x20-750, will do the job for you. If your are running multiple blocks like mine (ek supreme hf, ek ram block, ek asus rampage 3 extreme mb block, three ek gtx 470 blocks, ek bridge) then look into the next level of pump performance, DDC or D5 are good ones


----------



## solar0987

i plan on running 2 240 rads a northbridge block a mosfet block a gpu block and another gpu block down the line and maybe a 120 rad dep on temps with all that

and i can get another 750 ress/pump for free is why i asked

oh and can you run the 750 pump/ress on the bottom of the case?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

if you can run 2 750 pumps you would be better off spliting it into 2 loops then running as one. Say like this loop1 pump/res > cpu > northbridge > rad > pump/res then run 2nd one like loop2 pump/res > gpu1 > gpu2 > rad > pump/res.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12429105*
> if you can run 2 750 pumps you would be better off spliting it into 2 loops then running as one. Say like this loop1 pump/res > cpu > northbridge > rad > pump/res then run 2nd one like loop2 pump/res > gpu1 > gpu2 > rad > pump/res.


Aww shucks i only wanted one loop









would i get bad performance if i just ran it all in 1 loop?
like say pump to cpu to rad to mosfets to nb to gpu to gpu to pump to rad back to 1st pump?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Ok you could do it this is how it would need to be done tho and you would have to make sure both pumps were full when you setup the loop.

pump/res1 OUT > cpublock > nbblock > rad > pump/res2 IN > pump/res2 OUT > gpublock1 > gpublock2 > rad > pump/res1 IN


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12429105*
> if you can run 2 750 pumps you would be better off spliting it into 2 loops then running as one. Say like this loop1 pump/res > cpu > northbridge > rad > pump/res then run 2nd one like loop2 pump/res > gpu1 > gpu2 > rad > pump/res.


This, or get a single powerful pump like the DDC for higher pressure.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;12429247*
> Aww shucks i only wanted one loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would i get bad performance if i just ran it all in 1 loop?
> like say pump to cpu to rad to mosfets to nb to gpu to gpu to pump to rad back to 1st pump?


I could see it working, But thats a lot of work to get it right and there would be tubing everywhere!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12429382*
> This, or get a single powerful pump like the DDC for higher pressure.


Yea he could do that but i did figure out the loop order so he could use both pumps but im wondering if having 2 pumps would cause alot of turbance and not let it settle down.

pump/res1 OUT > cpublock > nbblock > rad > pump/res2 IN > pump/res2 OUT > gpublock1 > gpublock2 > rad > pump/res1 IN


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf;12429300*
> Ok you could do it this is how it would need to be done tho and you would have to make sure both pumps were full when you setup the loop.
> 
> pump/res1 OUT > cpublock > nbblock > rad > pump/res2 IN > pump/res2 OUT > gpublock1 > gpublock2 > rad > pump/res1 IN


cool now where would i add the mosfet block in there?
and id run it all on 1 pump till the other one was full then id turn it on


----------



## Bal3Wolf

pump/res1 OUT > cpublock > nbblock > mosfet > rad > pump/res2 IN > pump/res2 OUT > gpublock1 > gpublock2 > rad > pump/res1 IN

You really would be better off making 2 loops i mean your going to almost have 2 anyway it would be better to seperate them so you have better temps.


----------



## wermad

meh, sell em both and get D5 or DDC.


----------



## Silomatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12422829*
> He has those shipped out of their Texas facility. Just out of curiosity... how long ago was this?
> 
> Yes, it is a shame but molds unfortunately do wear out or get banged up. It's just bad luck. What I sometimes lost sight of at the beginning was that even though there was noise, the loop worked as intended so my first expedition into thge wtaer cooling world was not all that bad. Had a bit of bad luck? Yeah... I did. But I shut down my computer at night to sleep. I don't fold or anything so I don't have to put up with the rattling.
> 
> I will say this though... the small amount of time the replacement I was sent worked, it was dead silent. I mean, I had to look at the monitor and the mobo lights just to make sure the computer was on. That's why I know this will work.
> 
> Faith... that's all I need and not much of it.


Yeah it was shipped from Texas to Alabama. It was in transit for 5 days i believe. I sent my first email to him about two weeks ago. I received the pump Tuesday.


----------



## ezveedub

If your going to run two loops then go with the XSPC 5.25" dual bay dual DDC reservoir. You won't loose any more space in the 5.25 bay area, but can add another pump.

http://www.xspc.biz/ddcdualbayrestwo.php


----------



## Kahbrohn

OT question...

WHATS WITH THE GREEN-BILLED-MAD-SPARTAN-WHATEVER-THAT-THING-IS RUNNING ACROSS THE TOP OF THE SCREEN???????????


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


OT question...

WHATS WITH THE GREEN-BILLED-MAD-SPARTAN-WHATEVER-THAT-THING-IS RUNNING ACROSS THE TOP OF THE SCREEN???????????


http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...nded-line.html


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...nded-line.html


I have GOT to get out of the XSPC thread more often. Thanks...


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I have GOT to get out of the XSPC thread more often. Thanks...


You can turn it off.
http://www.overclock.net/profile.php?do=editoptions
Last option, at the bottom near the save settings.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


You can turn it off.
http://www.overclock.net/profile.php?do=editoptions
Last option, at the bottom near the save settings.


Nahhh... It's cool. Was just wondering. That's all. Daughter saw it and asked. I had no clue what it was about so I told her it was duck season in the US and gave her this huge explanation on what a big event duck hunting was.

Can't dazzle them with the truth, baffle them with.....


----------



## mbudden

lol. well i happened to get annoyed by it


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


lol. well i happened to get annoyed by it










That annoys you, but yet your dancing lizard avatar doesn't??


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


That annoys you, but yet your dancing lizard avatar doesn't??










Charmander != Dancing Lizard 
But the avatar doesn't move across the page, the duck does. ><


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Charmander != Dancing Lizard 
But the avatar doesn't move across the page, the duck does. ><


OK, just look up Charmander. Had no clue what that was.








I didn't grow up in the Pokemon era, so......


----------



## mbudden

Haha. It's quite alright


----------



## nicksasa

Maybe I used too much paste ...
Idle temps are 37Â°C at 4Ghz 1.52V. Load is 44Â°C tough.
Ambient is 18Â°C.

Used AS5 because i ran out of MX-3, still had MX-2 but AS5 is better so ...
And i just placed a small dot in the middle.


----------



## mbudden

Those don't look TOO bad, especially for 1.52V
I know with 1.5V's on my CPU. I was ~45C on load.


----------



## nicksasa

Yeah I'm fine with the load temp (it's 12Â°C lower than 3.8Ghz 1.43V on a CM hyper 212+ push/pull ...).

It's probably because the water isn't cooled down, because when i start up the system and let it sit for 5 min it's at 32Â°C.

Also the tube that comes with the kit isn't clear right ? As right now it looks a little bit white.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


Yeah I'm fine with the load temp (it's 12Â°C lower than 3.8Ghz 1.43V on a CM hyper 212+ push/pull ...).

It's probably because the water isn't cooled down, because when i start up the system and let it sit for 5 min it's at 32Â°C.

Also the tube that comes with the kit isn't clear right ? As right now it looks a little bit white.


Remember it's the volts that determine how how your chip is, not the clock speed









The tubing that comes with the kit isn't the greatest. I mean, it does it's job. But it's not top notch quality. It will be clear, turn white, then start turning brown. I have this problem.

Will be picking up Primochill tubing soon


----------



## nicksasa

Yeah i'm going to get some new tube soon.

ANd i just realized i have the rad fan's as outtake ... Going to change that when the unit finishes on my gtx460.
It's my gtx460 that's dumping heat into the case, no wonder my temps are higher then yesterday lol.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


Yeah i'm going to get some new tube soon.

ANd i just realized i have the rad fan's as outtake ... Going to change that when the unit finishes on my gtx460.


Primochill is pretty good. But so is Tygon tubing. I'd send you a link to Amazon, but you aren't in the US so it'd do you no good









But I had my fans as pulling air, but I switched them to pushing air. I already made shrouds this morning, so I'm just waiting for my 6/32x2.5" screws to come in the mail.


----------



## nicksasa

http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/1-2-s...2-5m-pack.html
Feser black UV, should look good with blue UV ccfl's


----------



## nicksasa

Well i changed the fans as intake and the case fans as outtake and temps dropped ~4Â°C









41.5 instead of 45.5


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


... so I'm just waiting for my 6/32x2.5" screws to come in the mail.


They didn't have them at your local Home Depot or are these special screws? I normally get the 3" screws and dremmel them to size.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


Well i changed the fans as intake and the case fans as outtake and temps dropped ~4Â°C









41.5 instead of 45.5


Told you


----------



## solar0987

Oh ya ordered add me to the club








frozen cpu.com was out of stock


----------



## nicksasa

I don't get it ... when i start up the system and let it sit for 5 minutes temps are 32Â°C. After folding for 2 hours and then pausing it, letting it sit for 30 min and it stays at ~38Â°C (load is 4%) ... Load temps stay the same.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Welcome to the dark side... we have cookies and milk!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Oh ya ordered add me to the club








frozen cpu.com was out of stock


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Welcome to the dark side... we have cookies and milk!


You trying to kill me.........
lol im allergic to milk and i mean highly

AND **** i forgot a kill coil...........another order and the dam shipping is more than the coil itself..
AAAAAAAAAAAAARERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGG GGGGG
will any piece of silver work say like a sterling silver ring?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


You trying to kill me.........
lol im allergic to milk and i mean highly


Welll.... I didn't know.

Soy milk? Beer? Rum? Pick... we have it!


----------



## solar0987

tequilla for me ty pref clear jose
but on a serious note can i add just anything that is silver to my loop or does it have to be a kill coil as my noobness forgot to add one to the order


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;12435953*
> You trying to kill me.........
> lol im allergic to milk and i mean highly
> 
> AND **** i forgot a kill coil...........another order and the dam shipping is more than the coil itself..
> AAAAAAAAAAAAARERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
> will any piece of silver work say like a sterling silver ring?


Why not call them and ask them to add that to your order?


----------



## solar0987

they dont answer the phone lol i emailed them got a response from john he is 100% on customer satisfaction they even refunded me the shipping on it and shipped it with my initial order


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;12436265*
> they dont answer the phone lol i emailed them got a response from john he is 100% on customer satisfaction they even refunded me the shipping on it and shipped it with my initial order


Well that's nice of them.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;12436171*
> tequilla for me ty pref clear jose
> but on a serious note can i add just anything that is silver to my loop or does it have to be a kill coil as my noobness forgot to add one to the order


Pure silver is toxic to organisms.

Kill Coil is nothing more than a .999 pure silver strip. Ranging between 4-12 inches long and maybe 1/8 of an inch wide. I have 2 x 4" coils in my res. You can probably get it from any crafts/hobby shop or a jewelry supply store. I have heard of people using pure silver coins that have been properly cleaned before hand. Also, there are silver connectors (more expensive though) and I even think Tygon makes a "silver" tubing for the loop.

The $4-$7 for the strip is fair though. You just take the strip and "coil" it around a pen cap or something and either dump it into your reservoir or I have even seen people "install" them inside of their tubing all though I can not say how. As I said, I just coiled them and dumped them inside my res.


----------



## Havoknova

I ordered my kit rs360 rasa just now..after i finish my rig 2 weeks from now..ill be calling my rig "the X-wing" 2 360 rad in both side in the back..that will looks like a wing wahaha..on my raven rv01 case..running res/pump>motherboard block>rad360>cpu>rad360> res/pump..hehehe this will be cool im so excited..


----------



## solar0987

and on a side note i ordered my single braided extensions and lighting,and another rad
i went against the motherboard blocks as i plan on getting a not budget motherboard lol
this one is nice but as it served its purpose but i want better now that i can afford it


----------



## Dissentience

Since I have time to mess around in the wake of my mobo failure, I mounted the rad on the back of the case and used a Dremel to cut holes for the tubing like mbudden did. I also have UV Blue Primochill tubing on the way.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12436645*
> Since I have time to mess around in the wake of my mobo failure, I mounted the rad on the back of the case and used a Dremel to cut holes for the tubing like mbudden did. I also have UV Blue Primochill tubing on the way.


Wasn't so hard was it?


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12437414*
> Wasn't so hard was it?


Nope









Thanks for the idea!


----------



## Live_free

Isn't 68c a little high at 4.3Ghz 1.34v with 3 GT AP-14s on push on a RX360 rad. Shouldn't I be getting 63c or so?

68c on OCCT without the GPU even running.


----------



## wermad

my 950 jumps to 70c while running ibt or prime


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12438880*
> Isn't 68c a little high at 4.3Ghz 1.34v with 3 GT AP-14s on push on a RX360 rad. Shouldn't I be getting 63c or so?
> 
> 68c on OCCT without the GPU even running.


OCCT and IBT push your chip harder than usual.
Also your ambient temps can make a difference.


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12438880*
> Isn't 68c a little high at 4.3Ghz 1.34v with 3 GT AP-14s on push on a RX360 rad. Shouldn't I be getting 63c or so?
> 
> 68c on OCCT without the GPU even running.


Sounds totally normal for that CPU and those clocks.


----------



## liquoredonlife

My RS360 kit, EK 6970 water block and a crap ton of fittings (two temp sensors, ball drain valve, 45/90 rotaries, Q & T adapters) have finally arrived.

Got a gallon and a half of ultra pure water from the chemistry lab at work as well as a gallon of grocery store distilled for pre-rinse.

Already contemplating upgrades... new hose, full compressions, RX360, full rack of GT-AP15s (or the 2150s?) and yeah, okay I've spent enough money. Time to put this stuff to use.

Before:










After:

http://www.overclock.net/12444092-post4290.html


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Live_free;12438880*
> Isn't 68c a little high at 4.3Ghz 1.34v with 3 GT AP-14s on push on a RX360 rad. Shouldn't I be getting 63c or so?
> 
> 68c on OCCT without the GPU even running.


sounds right my i7 [email protected] 1.37 gets around 67-69c in ibt at 73-74 amb.


----------



## mbudden

Hey guys









Quote:



Hi, mbudden

We will consider to make the backplate for AMD later. Thanks for your suggestion.

Best Regards
Dazhong


----------



## wermad

mod a cheap amd backplate


----------



## liquoredonlife

Whew, done. Sorta. Okay, well, it's mostly all up in there and gonna leak test for at least 12 hours. The EK waterblock is super duper heavy. The only saving grace to restore balance was to ziptie the PCI-E connector cable a little higher than the slot.










Ghetto slapped the rad on top of things laying around til I can get to the hardware store in the morning for some long screws. Yeah it's gonna sit about 4" high... In hindsight, wish I had a fulltower case.










I guess I'm fairly unique with this case + the Rasa. Only know of one other guy whose done it with this case (and rad mounted on back).

Time to update sig rig.


----------



## mbudden

The screws are 6/32 screws btw. Just so you know.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Some observations from putting the kit together as well as reading through about 95% of the posts here for watercooling beginners in general (like me!):

-When measuring tube length, particularly to the res, measure with the res out far enough for you to fill. Then consider how the tube may bend/kink once pushed back into your case. The uber/expensive hack to not having to extend tube is to use a pair of quick disconnects and to create a temporary extension. Another alternative is to get an M20 x G1/4 fillport adapter, a 1/2" barb or compression fitting for that (probably a 90 degree rotary as well), and run the tube to somewhere outside the case with a fillport tube/mount. You would definitely need the bay above the res unoccupied to do this.

-Buy new tubing right from the start- primochill (Amazon 10' for $16) or Tygon 7/16 ID if you use the 1/2" kit barbs. Don't use the kit tube for anything more than jumprope for kids you don't like, strangling that jackass at work who laughs at your water cooling endeavors, or in my case, temporary extension to the drain system I have going. It smells something awful and others have reported some sort of clouding/browning even with pure distilled water over the course of a few months.

-The screws to attach the res to the case are cd-rom screws (size M3). Thumb screw versions like these would be mighty helpful for moving the res more conveniently for top off or drain. Unless you have a Coolermaster with that clicky lock thing then I hate you.

-Pump is louder with the fill port open. Pump is especially loud when vibrating against your case. One possible way to lessen this is to use electrical tape, particularly in the middle groove that comes in contact with the 5 1/4" bay shelf. Try sliding the res forward and back, lifting it within the confines of the bay- the sound will change, sometimes dramatically.

-Should go without saying, but get real thermal grease (arctic cooling, shin etsu, etc) and apply an amount equivalent to a dry rice grain to the cpu block. I didn't believe it till I did it, pulled the block off the CPU, and saw how much spread had occurred. You get two sets of screws for the CPU block and only need to use one.

-The difficulty in sliding 7/16" ID tubing onto 1/2" barbs varies with the temperature of the tubing. Warming up the end of a tube in some hot distilled water you cooked up in the microwave makes it a cinch.

-When filling your system, never let the water level fall below the top of the pump cylinder (which I believe is half an inch from the top). Which means you'll be stopping, topping off and starting several times in the initial fill. The pump needs to be primed and not allow the possibility of sucking in air if you want the pump to last.

-If you have one of those external USB-SATA adapters that comes with a power brick and molex connector, you can use that to power the pump. That way you can leave your PSU mounted in your system while checking for leaks and not worrying about it. PSU disconnected from wall of course!

-The pump operates on 12V and the LED operates on 5V and both use the fatty 4pin molex connector without pass-through. You can combine them into the same molex connector (ground is the middle two wires) to require fewer molex cables. To do this you'll need a very small flathead screwdriver to collapse the clip that holds the pins inside the molex.

-While somewhat harder to find, Feser has a 4-pack of the 45 degree rotary adapters for around $25. SUPER useful and cheaper than buying them individually.

-When bleeding, try and keep your rad mounted loosely or not even mounted so you can shake it something fierce. If you can invert it, you'll bleed the air out much faster. If it has to be mounted, be prepared to shake or invert your entire case.

-Have fun, take your time. Measure twice, cut once. Inspect o-rings. Don't overtighten the fittings, especially if they screw into acrylic/acetal. Yada yada. Thanks for all the help you guys have provided. Can't wait to upgrade this thing when I have to swap motherboards in March/April.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12444954*
> The screws are 6/32 screws btw. Just so you know.


took me about 5 minutes at ACE to figure this out...


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12446230*
> Some observations from putting the kit together as well as reading through about 95% of the posts here for watercooling beginners in general (like me!):


Whoa.
I'll read this in a bit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX;12446345*
> took me about 5 minutes at ACE to figure this out...


lol i couldn't find any at Home Depot. So I ordered them off FrozenCPU.


----------



## wermad

my local Homes don't have squat #6-32, lowes is buried in the middle of suburbia hell and takes for ever to get there.

I buy em at amazon.com. McMasterCarr has a great selection and easy to find tool on their site.

I just bought a ram block (yeah, yeah, total overkill and just bling







), would my old x20-750 have handled everything in my sig, ???. Meh, would have killed the little guy sooner


----------



## Draygonn

Hi Guys. Would a RS240 kit with push/pull GT's be enough for a 2600k and single 480 overclocked? I'm kicking around the idea of getting a Lian Li PC-V354 and trying my hand at WCing.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12446230*
> When measuring tube length, particularly to the res, measure with the res out far enough for you to fill.


I have a trick works for me to not need extra tubing is first buy a Fill Syringe and put your res below your dvdrom if you can then you can just take your dvdrom out anytime you need to fill up your loop without needing to move your res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draygonn;12448047*
> Hi Guys. Would a RS240 kit with push/pull GT's be enough for a 2600k and single 480 overclocked? I'm kicking around the idea of getting a Lian Li PC-V354 and trying my hand at WCing.


I dont thk the rs240 would cool the 2600k and 480 you would want a rx240 or a rs360.


----------



## Captain Skyhawk

Just installed the 240 and everything went fairly well except the pump is SUPER loud. It's possible there could be some air trapped inside the pump because when I was installing the first time I turned it on the water level dropped faster then I was expecting and I didn't turn it off as quick as I should have.

This is my first water cooling setup and any tips would be great.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Skyhawk;12449394*
> Just installed the 240 and everything went fairly well except the pump is SUPER loud. It's possible there could be some air trapped inside the pump because when I was installing the first time I turned it on the water level dropped faster then I was expecting and I didn't turn it off as quick as I should have.
> 
> This is my first water cooling setup and any tips would be great.


Just turn it on and fill it till it stops dropping. That's all I did I never had air trapped in my pump. I did have air stuck in the rad but tipping the case got rid of that.


----------



## Captain Skyhawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12449575*
> Just turn it on and fill it till it stops dropping. That's all I did I never had air trapped in my pump. I did have air stuck in the rad but tipping the case got rid of that.


Well yes I've been doing that and It seems I've topped it off as much as I'm going to be able to. The pump however is still hella loud. It's making a very loud rattling noise like a hard drive or something.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Skyhawk;12449979*
> Well yes I've been doing that and It seems I've topped it off as much as I'm going to be able to. The pump however is still hella loud. It's making a very loud rattling noise like a hard drive or something.


Well pick up your case and shake it up and hope it air, Because theres been alot of bad pumps lately







Its sad because it a good kit but these pump's are not making it look good


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I have a trick works for me to not need extra tubing is first buy a Fill Syringe and put your res below your dvdrom if you can then you can just take your dvdrom out anytime you need to fill up your loop without needing to move your res.


Clever! Though I think I need a picture of your DVD rom drive ejected from the fill perspective because this one I have sitting on a shelf won't let you see through it with the tray ejected. Another method could be sliding the top bay device backwards after loosening it and using a syringe or a fill/wash bottle with a nozzle.

Bought a small 8oz fill bottle from REI for a buck, keep it filled with DI water and sealed in a ziplock bag (for dust reasons). Don't have a SATA-based DVD drive in my computer since Scythe Kaze Master fan controller & XSPC X20 res have taken all my 5 1/4"s.


----------



## nicksasa

Isn't 48Â°C load a bit too much for 4Ghz 1.52V and CPUNB 3.0Ghz 1.47V ...


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


Isn't 48Â°C load a bit too much for 4Ghz 1.52V and CPUNB 3.0Ghz 1.47V ...


What? No. Not at all.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


Isn't 48Â°C load a bit too much for 4Ghz 1.52V and CPUNB 3.0Ghz 1.47V ...


no,thats fine.mine under load is 48c.it all depends on my ambient temps


----------



## nicksasa

It's just that i notice if i stay under 46Â°C it's stable with less volts, so i might be able to hit 4.1Ghz.
Hmm i should get 6 AP15's in push/pull ... Currently I'm using the stock fans in pull.
And my ambient is 21Â°C.

I'm thinking about ordering an sempron 140 2.7Ghz for the price of 2 ap 15's when i order the fans just for fun. I wonder at what voltage it would burn out lol. Anyone interested in a 4Ghz+ sempron bench ?







I would use it downlocked in my server to replace that X2 7750 and downclock it to 2Ghz. Should be the same as my dual core at 1.0Ghz but with a lot less power usage


----------



## masustic

add me. i just got mine yesterday. took some quick pics, this is my first attempt at any sort of watercooling so if anyone notices anything that i did wrong plz let me know.


----------



## hot120

Nice one LiquidRed!


----------



## liquoredonlife

System's finally back together, still testing but with one door open and a few napkins strewn about just in case thermal expansion decides to play with my fittings.

Folding with SMP (100% across 8 threads), load temps down about 14-19C across the board. Core temps are 47/58/51/53C, ambient at 19C.

GPU temps just dived into the abyss. LOVE IT!


----------



## Captain Skyhawk

I'm very disappointed I'm going to have to get a new pump. This one continues to rattle loud beyond anything bearable. Ruins an otherwise good kit. Any recommendations on a better quieter pump/reservoir?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Captain Skyhawk*


I'm very disappointed I'm going to have to get a new pump. This one continues to rattle loud beyond anything bearable. Ruins an otherwise good kit. Any recommendations on a better quieter pump/reservoir?


Send xspc a email with a video if you can, And they should send you a new one. Someone needs to be testing them before selling them


----------



## liquoredonlife

I noticed a pretty low pitch droning noise related to the pump, but mostly in it causing vibration to the rest of the computer. I put some foam donuts (like the foam tops of CDR spindles) under the left two feet of my computer and reduced it noticeably. Found this out while tilting my case slightly. My computer sits on a cheapo particle board desk from Ikea, think I'm gonna need some better computer feet or something. I'll be looking to make a rheostat for the pump (under volt to 8 or 9v at night).

Reminds me of swapping out the motor mount in my car for something stiffer and causing more things to vibrate.

GPU temp peaked at 36C in SC2 (normally 75-80C with the fan profile I had of 40-50% max). Wasn't until I dropped fan speed to like 800rpm and shut off one of the case fans did temps climb to 39C. Cranked them back on to around 1200 and temps fell fairly quickly. Fun to watch. This is with an RS360, room ambient @ 19.2C, gpu following the cpu, and external mounted rad. Definitely X20 pump certainly sufficient to handle these two.

The temp delta between water temp and cpu temp is huge. Reading 26.4*C at the CPU and 50-59C at the core. Can probably get it better with regreasing or trying another TIM.


----------



## AusPC

I'm Planning on getting an RX240 Kit soon. But what size tubing should I get 7/16 or 1/2? Primochill White OFC


----------



## premonition08

i have an rx120 radiator cooling my cpu. i want to cool my gpu aswell. will adding an rs120 rad combined with an rx120 enough to cool both cpu and gpu? i'm running my i5 661 at 4.33ghz on an rx120 rad and a sapphire hd 5870 at stock speeds on stock cooling.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *premonition08*


i have an rx120 radiator cooling my cpu. i want to cool my gpu aswell. will adding an rs120 rad combined with an rx120 enough to cool both cpu and gpu? i'm running my i5 661 at 4.33ghz on an rx120 rad and a sapphire hd 5870 at stock speeds on stock cooling.


What temps are you getting right now on the cpu? It might just do it but im not too sure.


----------



## MorbEIn

Just ordered a rasa rs360 ^_^ this club convinced me to go watercooling..

can i ask a question, if i get myself a silver kill coil, will i still need pt nuke?
and, it's possible for me to do the leak testing while the computer is on right? the water kit will be outside the system...


----------



## premonition08

hi thanks for the reply. i'm getting 60 to 65C core load temps at 28 to 30C ambient temps. another q. is it better to run a separate loop for the gpu. coz i have a spare xspc 450LPH res/pump? thanks again for the replies


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *premonition08*


hi thanks for the reply. i'm getting 60 to 65C core load temps at 28 to 30C ambient temps. another q. is it better to run a separate loop for the gpu. coz i have a spare xspc 450LPH res/pump? thanks again for the replies


It would probably be best to run them separate, Unless you can get a 240 rad in there somewhere.


----------



## premonition08

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


It would probably be best to run them separate, Unless you can get a 240 rad in there somewhere.


thanks again for the reply!


----------



## fireisdangerous84

I am going to get the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 to cool my cpu, but i will want to put my evga 570 into the loop in the future or maybe add another 570. I can only fit a 240 rad in the top of my case but if i added 120 rad into the loop would that provide enought cooling or would i have to do a seperate loop for the gpus?

thanks in advanc e for you help


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


I am going to get the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 to cool my cpu, but i will want to put my evga 570 into the loop in the future or maybe add another 570. I can only fit a 240 rad in the top of my case but if i added 120 rad into the loop would that provide enought cooling or would i have to do a seperate loop for the gpus?

thanks in advanc e for you help


If you can get the RX240. It will be worth it in the long run


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


If you can get the RX240. It will be worth it in the long run










if i got the rx240 would i need to add a rx120 rad if i wanted to add 1 or 2 gtx570's to the loop


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


if i got the rx240 would i need to add a rx120 rad if i wanted to add 1 or 2 gtx570's to the loop


Well how far are you overclocking the cpu? You might be able to run 1 card on a RX240, Maybe! But I would add the RX120. I have a RX360 and im going to add a RX120 when I go to watercool a video card. Im sure someone else will have some more info. Im still new to this


----------



## bennieboi6969

mayb go for the rx360 and then add a 240 to the loop when u add the grapics. and mayb change the pump as everyone seems to do


----------



## nicksasa

I know if i get a 6990 later this year i'm going to add another rs240 to the loop.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969*


mayb go for the rx360 and then add a 240 to the loop when u add the grapics. and mayb change the pump as everyone seems to do


Most cases can't take a 360 rad and that gets cut down farther because people want to fit the rad in there case








For me I can fit my RX360 at the top and RX120 at the back and a RX120 at the bottom without modding the case. Love the HAF 932


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Most cases can't take a 360 rad and that gets cut down farther because people want to fit the rad in there case







For me I can fit my RX360 at the top and RX120 at the back and a RX120 at the bottom without modding the case. Love the HAF 932










Actually, you should be able to hang a 120 at the back.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


I know if i get a 6990 later this year i'm going to add another rs240 to the loop.


Im looking to get the 6990 too







If it ever comes out







Im going with my RX360 with a RX120 when I do. But if I need to ill and a RX120 at the bottom


----------



## nicksasa

Hmm yeah, that might be a better idea instead of adding a rs/rx240 on the outside of my case.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


Hmm yeah, that might be a better idea instead of adding a rs/rx240 on the outside of my case.


Its up to you. I want to keep everything in the case


----------



## nicksasa

Hmmmmmm
I replaced the AS5 with some MX-2 and temps dropped 2Â°C








AS5 was on there for 40h of full load (folding) so idk why it dropped that much.

Also i wont use prime95 anymore. My oc was stable with 1.52V for 10h in prime, but now i ran LinX and it crashed within 10 minutes








4Ghz is 30 runs of linx stable with 1.54V tho ... Now I'm thinking about selling my 955 and getting a 1055T







But no, I have to resist the force so i can buy the best bulldozer chip when they come out


----------



## replin

I got the new rad and it sucks. There's a huge hole in the rad. Jab-tech definitely did not care to even check to see if the quality was good or there were any OBVIOUS holes like this. Nor did XSPC. Their quality control is terrible. Great job John.....rolls eyes.


----------



## nicksasa

A hole in the rad ? Pics plz


----------



## jdpkeeper

finally installed!


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replin;12458334*
> I got the new rad and it sucks. There's a huge hole in the rad. Jab-tech definitely did not care to even check to see if the quality was good or there were any OBVIOUS holes like this. Nor did XSPC. Their quality control is terrible. Great job John.....rolls eyes.


You just have the worst luck in the world... I'm sure there customer service will take care of you just fine, I don't know why you don't get that you don't need to get on here and bash something that almost nobody seems to have problems with... And looking at your previous posts in other threads.... Well its not all about luck LOL...


----------



## Live_free

I was redoing my tubing and rad today as my last one had a leak. SO I got all my tubing down and it on then I noticed this. If this line gets a leak and runs down the tube it could potentially fry my GTX 580 because of the tube positioning. Now if I never get a leak then it's cool but do you think I should redo the tubing once again over instead of under to prevent this? Would you? It is literally partly resting on the power cord.


----------



## backfire103

So I spent the day re organizing my loop an I think it came out pretty good.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *backfire103*


So I spent the day re organizing my loop an I think it came out pretty good. 










 Holy bad cable management. You should take care of that right away before the cable gods smite you.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

yes lol he better i mean if i can clean up my cables anyone can.


----------



## backfire103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12460677*
> Holy bad cable management. You should take care of that right away before the cable gods smite you.


Well my PSU doesn't have modular cabling, which sucks. As soon as I have a bit more disposable income I'm gonna buy a new Corsair one and fix the cabling haha.


----------



## mbudden

Will be updating tonight


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


 Holy bad cable management. You should take care of that right away before the cable gods smite you.


WHAT do you mean!?! It's got that "slapped together" look!!!

J/K... A li'l management is in order and you will enjoy it once it's done...


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *backfire103*


Well my PSU doesn't have modular cabling, which sucks. As soon as I have a bit more disposable income I'm gonna buy a new Corsair one and fix the cabling haha.


You have a HAF 932. Put the cables behind the back panel! Theres lots of room to work with.


----------



## Live_free

Can anyone comment on my question of page 434. :3


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Live_free*


Can anyone comment on my question of page 434. :3


I wouldnt count on it leaking... I took no consideration in 'what if this leaks' while routing my waterlines. I just did a 24hr leak test with a jumper and nothing plugged in, after that I just trust it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


I wouldnt count on it leaking... I took no consideration in 'what if this leaks' while routing my waterlines. I just did a 24hr leak test with a jumper and nothing plugged in, after that I just trust it.


Pretty much this. If you are using 7/16 ID tubing on 1/2 OD barbs, you should be good. Use the clamps (or buy stainless steel screw type clamps at your hardware store like I did for example) and you'll be golden. Never hurts to pay a $-2 for added peace of mind.


----------



## RaCeR123

Could someone point me in the right direction to get a red led that would work, I want to replace the blue led that came with it to make it fit the red haf-x theme more.


----------



## fireisdangerous84

When leak testing the loop do u need to have the fans turned on on the rad?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


When leak testing the loop do u need to have the fans turned on on the rad?


No just unplug hard drives, video card and the power cables to the motherboard so it doesn't try to turn on.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


Could someone point me in the right direction to get a red led that would work, I want to replace the blue led that came with it to make it fit the red haf-x theme more.










These red LEDs from Koolance look like they may fit the bill. Comes with two LEDs so you can light up both available holes.



















Edit- These LEDs are 3mm, the ones that come with the XSPC kit are 5mm, so they'll need some sort of adhesive to secure them if you use these.


----------



## bennieboi6969

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


Comes with two LEDs so you can light up *both available holes*.


lol


----------



## mbudden

Added everyone from the last few pages








Btw. 123 people in the club ><


----------



## liquoredonlife

I thought it'd be funny to take pictures/video of me removing my H70 and putting it back into the box, and call it a "reboxing." Anyway, back to Amazon it goes! Whee.

Now I just need 5 Scythe Gentle Typhoon GT AP-15s to replace case fans and one rad fan with. Thinking of getting the 3000s for my fan controller cause the AP-15s are still super quiet at max speed.


----------



## Isopropyl

Does it matter how the Rasa block is mounted? Can I rotate the block 90º, 180º, 270º without any problem?

Additionally if 2 30º fittings are on the block is there any issue with flow by doing any of the above rotations?

This is driving me insane!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isopropyl;12469420*
> Does it matter how the Rasa block is mounted? Can I rotate the block 90º, 180º, 270º without any problem?
> 
> Additionally if 2 30º fittings are on the block is there any issue with flow by doing any of the above rotations?
> 
> This is driving me insane!


Not sure about the orientation of the block. I just placed mine words regular side up. And 30 degree fittings should be fine. The only time you see problems is when you're using 90 degree fittings. Those impede flow.


----------



## Mr.Zergling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isopropyl;12469420*
> Does it matter how the Rasa block is mounted? Can I rotate the block 90º, 180º, 270º without any problem?
> 
> Additionally if 2 30º fittings are on the block is there any issue with flow by doing any of the above rotations?
> 
> This is driving me insane!


The orientation doesn't seem to matter, I have mine mounted so the intake port is on the top and the outflow is on the bottom (for tubing reasons, as my rad is above my res)


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isopropyl;12469420*
> Does it matter how the Rasa block is mounted? Can I rotate the block 90º, 180º, 270º without any problem?
> 
> Additionally if 2 30º fittings are on the block is there any issue with flow by doing any of the above rotations?
> 
> This is driving me insane!


You should be set with any variation you can think of, just avoid the 90 degree fittings if you can like mbudden said. I mounted mine so the words are the correct way.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isopropyl;12469420*
> Does it matter how the Rasa block is mounted? Can I rotate the block 90º, 180º, 270º without any problem?
> 
> Additionally if 2 30º fittings are on the block is there any issue with flow by doing any of the above rotations?
> 
> This is driving me insane!


Yes, you can orient the block however is convenient for you. As long as the fittings don't come in contact with each other, it's fine. For my inlet, I'm using a male-male rotary coupler, Koolance Q-fitting with temp sensor and plug, with a rotary barb coming out at 90 degrees. This clears the RAM and is a straight shot into the reservoir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12469450*
> Not sure about the orientation of the block. I just placed mine words regular side up. And 30 degree fittings should be fine. The only time you see problems is when you're using 90 degree fittings. Those impede flow.


The plastic 90 degree fittings are restrictive. The nickel plated brass rotary adapters (45/90) are not restrictive. They're just like mandrel bent exhaust piping that maintain the same internal diameter all the way through.


----------



## Isopropyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12469675*
> You should be set with any variation you can think of, just avoid the 90 degree fittings if you can like mbudden said. I mounted mine so the words are the correct way.


Thanks all... It seems to be the consensus that everyone mounts it so the words are the correct way up. I have just been having one hell of a problem with my set up and am at work atm so thinking what to do once I get home. You can see my original post here: To Ambitious (not sure if pump is stong enough). I have mounted it 180º so the words are upside down. Just trying to find / see what the problem is!


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isopropyl;12469797*
> Thanks all... It seems to be the consensus that everyone mounts it so the words are the correct way up. I have just been having one hell of a problem with my set up and am at work atm so thinking what to do once I get home. You can see my original post here: To Ambitious (not sure if pump is stong enough). I have mounted it 180º so the words are upside down. Just trying to find / see what the problem is!


Mine is also upside down and is running fine. If I mounted it right side up, the inlet tube would cross into the outlet tube going to the GPU.


----------



## AMDMAXX

I'm going to be tearing down the system for a cleaning in the next few weeks... ordered 4 new scythe 100 CFM fans (going to be loud), and 2 scythe fan controllers, and another 6870. I may be replacing the Radiator eventually too... either with a 360 wide or a thicker 240 but I dunno yet... going to see the performance with the scythe fans and controllers first... I will be sure to take pictures... I added lights to my system too... 3 Cold cathodes and lazer led's behind the res.

edit: forgot about the new tubing too... forgot what brand but its red... 1/2 inch ID


----------



## Sean Webster

Here  



 
 Here is a good review of the RS360 Kit by TimeToLiveCustoms/Overclock3D


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanWebster*


Here Here is a good review of the RS360 Kit by TimeToLiveCustoms/Overclock3D


I was waiting for TinyTomLogans review







Both on YT and his website.


----------



## skyn3t

hey guys Im going to need a lot help in here i just got a new gtx 460 for SLI so i was thinking put all my sig under water 
CPU
2 GTX 460







what are my options on XSPC with some addon parts .


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyn3t*


hey guys Im going to need a lot help in here i just got a new gtx 460 for SLI so i was thinking put all my sig under water 
CPU
2 GTX 460







what are my options on XSPC with some addon parts .


For SLI, you should be looking at an RS360/RX240/RX360 kit minimum, depending on overclocking goals and current temperatures. Full cover EK GPU blocks will probably cost you around $100 a piece. SLI adapters, extra fittings, some 45 degree rotary adapters, better hose, quality thermal paste paste and a kill coil or PT Nuke and you're probably looking at somewhere around $400-$500 USD.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Guy what Mid-Tower Case would fit RASA RS240 inside? Trying to keep it below 100$. I Currently have a CM 690 but not sure if it will fit it internally.


----------



## bennieboi6969

it will fit u just have to mod the top fan holes


----------



## Gigabytedude24

sorry i have been really busy. but here is what i have done as of right now. i have some more mods to do yet. I hoping to get them done this weekend. The inside of the case is a lot cleaner now. I will take more pics this weekend once every thing is done.


----------



## Gigalisk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gigabytedude24*


sorry i have been really busy. but here is what i have done as of right now. i have some more mods to do yet. I hoping to get them done this weekend. The inside of the case is a lot cleaner now. I will take more pics this weekend once every thing is done.


Hey those stands for the radiator, fabbed yourself or did you procure those from elsewhere/online maybe? Really like to know, i'm examining different options for my rad.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gigalisk*


Hey those stands for the radiator, fabbed yourself or did you procure those from elsewhere/online maybe? Really like to know, i'm examining different options for my rad.


they come with the XSPC kits


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gigabytedude24*


sorry i have been really busy. but here is what i have done as of right now. i have some more mods to do yet. I hoping to get them done this weekend. The inside of the case is a lot cleaner now. I will take more pics this weekend once every thing is done.


i just love that color blue,nice


----------



## alawadhi3000




----------



## Gigabytedude24

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


they come with the XSPC kits


x2


----------



## hot120

Question. Actually, two. First, has anyone heard anything new about the improved pumps being sent out by XSPC? Second, what is the consensus on GT AP-15's on these radiators? Martin's review of radiators and push/pull suggest no difference between push/pull with medium speed fans. I plan to use mine in pull. I can do a comparison once I get my fans, but if someone already has some info, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!


----------



## Yukss

my rig


----------



## solar0987

my pump is soo loud :{
i can hear it over my 94 cfm 2000 rpm fans


----------



## koven

hmm i cant hear my pump at all lol


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


hmm i cant hear my pump at all lol


it sounds like a bearing scraping on something


----------



## nicksasa

I think I'm going to drain my loop tomorrow to replace the intel mount with the amd one and i just realized 1 piece of tube is a little bit too short. I can pull the res out just far enough so i can fill/drain it but that's it ... I'll replace that too and replace the thermal pads on my mobo.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


I think I'm going to drain my loop tomorrow to replace the intel mount with the amd one and i just realized 1 piece of tube is a little bit too short. I can pull the res out just far enough so i can fill/drain it but that's it ... I'll replace that too and replace the thermal pads on my mobo.


you can use the intel mount with a amd board?
cause the amd mount is ugly


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hot120*


Second, what is the consensus on GT AP-15's on these radiators? Martin's review of radiators and push/pull suggest no difference between push/pull with medium speed fans. I plan to use mine in pull. I can do a comparison once I get my fans, but if someone already has some info, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!


I have GT AP-15's on my RS360 as pull. They work really well between 800-1800 rpm. Granted my rad is mounted externally and I control them with a Scythe Kaze Master fan controller. I think most of the hubbub of the GT's are their low noise and sound profile. I imagine their performance to be on par with most other fans of the same RPM. If noise isn't an issue you can definitely get by with something cheaper or more performance.

I'm trying to decide whether I want to get the 3000 RPM AP-29s though and use those on the rad. Then move the AP-15s inside as case fans, since I'd like the option to ramp speed up to near unbearable with radical CFM levels if necessary.


----------



## nicksasa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


you can use the intel mount with a amd board?
cause the amd mount is ugly


Yep, wait ill upload a pic. I think it looks much cooler but that's my opinion







It blocks the first ram slot tough.









And i don't think the amd mount is ugly, just the screws are. But I'm pretty sure you can use the screws from the intel mount


----------



## hot120

Thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


I have GT AP-15's on my RS360 as pull. They work really well between 800-1800 rpm. Granted my rad is mounted externally and I control them with a Scythe Kaze Master fan controller. I think most of the hubbub of the GT's are their low noise and sound profile. I imagine their performance to be on par with most other fans of the same RPM. If noise isn't an issue you can definitely get by with something cheaper or more performance.

I'm trying to decide whether I want to get the 3000 RPM AP-29s though and use those on the rad. Then move the AP-15s inside as case fans, since I'd like the option to ramp speed up to near unbearable with radical CFM levels if necessary.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


Yep, wait ill upload a pic. I think it looks much cooler but that's my opinion







It blocks the first ram slot tough.

And i don't think the amd mount is ugly, just the screws are. But I'm pretty sure you can use the screws from the intel mount










I swear someone said they used the Intel screws with the AMD mount.


----------



## MorbEIn

Just got my XSPC kit a while ago, installed everything just by following mr. jugallos's videos ^_^ i'll try and post some pics in a bit, really hard looking for the right areas where to put the loop in an FT02... but I managed.. I think... Would've posted a build log but im not good at narrating stuff that im doing.. >.>
So i'll just let the pics do the talking... ^_^


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12487461*
> Just got my XSPC kit a while ago, installed everything just by following mr. jugallos's videos ^_^ i'll try and post some pics in a bit, really hard looking for the right areas where to put the loop in an FT02... but I managed.. I think... Would've posted a build log but im not good at narrating stuff that im doing.. >.>
> So i'll just let the pics do the talking... ^_^


i look at ur case its not bad...hehehe i got a raven and im goin to put 2 external 360 rads cant wait till tomorrow...my kit will be arriving tomorrow...good luck with the loop setup


----------



## AMOCO

Well I bought 4 of these fans,








since I already had 2.Plus was on a small budget since I spent money on 2 MC 64gb. SSD's.


----------



## amantonas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12484429*
> I swear someone said they used the Intel screws with the AMD mount.


I used the intel screws. They work better and look better in my opinion.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amantonas;12488645*
> I used the intel screws. They work better and look better in my opinion.


the intel screws go in, but you aren't actually threading them, the threads on the amd bracket are totally different then the threads on the intel screws. You are actually cross threading them to make it work. I wouldn't advise using the intel screws with the amd bracket. Go look at the tread on the screw for the amd bracket and then look at the intel screws, they are way smaller threads.


----------



## solar0987

mine threaded right in i used the intel screw with the amd mount ><
wasnt hard or nothing hand tightened, the backplate is the one from the h50 thought.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12484292*
> Yep, wait ill upload a pic. I think it looks much cooler but that's my opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It blocks the first ram slot tough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i don't think the amd mount is ugly, just the screws are. But I'm pretty sure you can use the screws from the intel mount


that looks jank


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot120;12482389*
> Question. Actually, two. First, has anyone heard anything new about the improved pumps being sent out by XSPC? Second, what is the consensus on GT AP-15's on these radiators? Martin's review of radiators and push/pull suggest no difference between push/pull with medium speed fans. I plan to use mine in pull. I can do a comparison once I get my fans, but if someone already has some info, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!


I had three GT AP-15's as pull, than added shrouds to pull configuration. Dropped 2c when switched over to push with shrouds. So push with the GT's worked a lot better for me.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12489179*
> I had three GT AP-15's as pull, than added shrouds to pull configuration. Dropped 2c when switched over to push with shrouds. So push with the GT's worked a lot better for me.


My temps dropped 1C with shrouds for me on the stock fans.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12489197*
> My temps dropped 1C with shrouds for me on the stock fans.


Now that I think about it, I believe like you said, it dropped 1c with shrouds when in pull config, but after changing over to push w/shrouds that gave me another 1c drop for a total of 2c going from pull to push plus adding shrouds. Hope that makes sense.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I swear someone said they used the Intel screws with the AMD mount.


The black Intel screws went into my old mobo's backplate just fine.


----------



## hot120

Thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


Now that I think about it, I believe like you said, it dropped 1c with shrouds when in pull config, but after changing over to push w/shrouds that gave me another 1c drop for a total of 2c going from pull to push plus adding shrouds. Hope that makes sense.


----------



## wermad

intel mount on amd mb = fail imo

if you're so concern about looks, get another block.

Frankly, all amd water block mounts aren't as sexy as the intel one's imo (I had the amd mount for my EK supreme hf and it don't compare against the intel one







)

better yet, some1 craft one to make it look purrrrttty on the rasa block.


----------



## solar0987

Build is almost done WOHOOOOO im waiting on the rad from performance pc and some more sleeving/heatshrink and some angled fittings it doesnt even look like the same pc









but i installed the xspc kit for now til it comes i used the clear tube that came with it just to see it in my case pics as soon as i get a good camera

before









after








more pics in my buildlog
camera sux looks aloot better in person


----------



## MorbEIn

Just got my kit installed, bled, now I'm on my 6th hour leak testing, is it normal for the pump to make a ticking rattling noise?

Thanks


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Build is almost done WOHOOOOO im waiting on the rad from performance pc and some more sleeving/heatshrink and some angled fittings it doesnt even look like the same pc









but i installed the xspc kit for now til it comes i used the clear tube that came with it just to see it in my case pics as soon as i get a good camera

before









after








more pics in my buildlog
camera sux looks aloot better in person


It looks like you might have the in and out wrong on the cpu block, Unless you installed it upside down? But its hard to tell from the pic.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


Just got my kit installed, bled, now I'm on my 6th hour leak testing, is it normal for the pump to make a ticking rattling noise?

Thanks


Well it might be air in the pump, But there has been alot of bad pumps lately







You need to tip the case every way you can to make sure the air is out.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


Just got my kit installed, bled, now I'm on my 6th hour leak testing, is it normal for the pump to make a ticking rattling noise?

Thanks


It gets quieter over time as more residual bubbles bleed out. Try tilting your case slightly, moving the reservoir around in the bay and see if the noise profile changes.


----------



## MorbEIn

Should I turn the pimp off before I tilt?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


Should I turn the pimp off before I tilt?


Well you want to turn the pump on and off to try to get air out. Just make sure the rez is full and the cap is on, And go for it


----------



## MorbEIn

just worried taht i might've gotten a defective pump... dont really have the time to return it to get replaced cuz i already installed my GPu waterblock and everything so not having the pump to cool down my components means no work for me to be done.. my mobo doesnt come with an onboard GPU...

i had the leak testing going on for 6 hours non stop no leaks whatsoever, but the ticking pump noise is pissing me off. tilted it side to side, still no luck, tick.. tick.. tick.. tick.. tick...


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


just worried taht i might've gotten a defective pump... dont really have the time to return it to get replaced cuz i already installed my GPu waterblock and everything so not having the pump to cool down my components means no work for me to be done.. my mobo doesnt come with an onboard GPU...

i had the leak testing going on for 6 hours non stop no leaks whatsoever, but the ticking pump noise is pissing me off. tilted it side to side, still no luck, tick.. tick.. tick.. tick.. tick...


Well theres not much else that can be done







It might go away, But you might want to send xspc a email and let them know whats going on so they can get a new pump as soon as possible. These pumps are quickly tuning people away from a great kit


----------



## Silomatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I swear someone said they used the Intel screws with the AMD mount.












They threaded perfectly with the back plate that came with my motherboard.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gigabytedude24*


sorry i have been really busy. but here is what i have done as of right now. i have some more mods to do yet. I hoping to get them done this weekend. The inside of the case is a lot cleaner now. I will take more pics this weekend once every thing is done.


hey looks good dude but little cable management will be nice


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


Just got my XSPC kit a while ago, installed everything just by following mr. jugallos's videos ^_^ i'll try and post some pics in a bit, really hard looking for the right areas where to put the loop in an FT02... but I managed.. I think... Would've posted a build log but im not good at narrating stuff that im doing.. >.>
So i'll just let the pics do the talking... ^_^


Which kit do you have? It doesn't say in your specs.


----------



## hot120

@TheSandman: Your tubing looks brownish/green like mine. I have Primochill too! I made sure my rad was super clean. Wonder what caused it?


----------



## hot120

Are those bay fans? What brand? Thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Build is almost done WOHOOOOO im waiting on the rad from performance pc and some more sleeving/heatshrink and some angled fittings it doesnt even look like the same pc









but i installed the xspc kit for now til it comes i used the clear tube that came with it just to see it in my case pics as soon as i get a good camera

before









after








more pics in my buildlog
camera sux looks aloot better in person


----------



## alawadhi3000

Guys, what about the water level of the res? I currently have it at ~%75 full. Should I add more water?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000*


Guys, what about the water level of the res? I currently have it at ~%75 full. Should I add more water?


Yes, I keep mine filled as much as I can. Less chance of the pump sucking up air


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Yes, I keep mine filled as much as I can. Less chance of the pump sucking up air










I filled my one up to the point where its close to splish-splashing out of the res, is that good? or shoul;d i cut down on the water a bit?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000*


Guys, what about the water level of the res? I currently have it at ~%75 full. Should I add more water?


I had mine at the bare minimum and it worked fine. This time around. I filled it all the way.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I had mine at the bare minimum and it worked fine. This time around. I filled it all the way.


Cool cool, now I'm still waiting for this damn pump to stop ticking...

Edit: And seems like my set didnt come with fan screws... id ont have screws long enough to attach the fans to the radiator.. >.>


----------



## nicksasa

if i remember correctly the screws for the fans are inside the radiator box.


----------



## mbudden

They are hiding... lol


----------



## nicksasa

Well there were 2 screws missing in my kit, there were only 4 screws to attach the radiator to my case not 6.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


Cool cool, now I'm still waiting for this damn pump to stop ticking...

Edit: And seems like my set didnt come with fan screws... id ont have screws long enough to attach the fans to the radiator.. >.>


The screws are taped in a small piece of cardboard easy to miss it if your not looking real close.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12493496*
> Well there were 2 screws missing in my kit, there were only 4 screws to attach the radiator to my case not 6.


I think that's all they give you for the rad. I only had 4 small ones for the rad.


----------



## nicksasa

Yeah, but why not 6 ?? 2 screws cost nothing so idk


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12493602*
> I think that's all they give you for the rad. I only had 4 small ones for the rad.


My installation instructions (this is what I did)... bring everything to ace... figure out which size the screws are to fit the rad. Purchase screws, cut screws to length so they don't puncture the core... Install rad, done...

Its a pain I couldn't figure out what screws were to what and just said screw it... no pun intended...


----------



## CP2

Add me pls money grip tight jeans!!!


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12493497*
> The screws are taped in a small piece of cardboard easy to miss it if your not looking real close.


Crap really? Hope the cleaner hasnt picked the rubbish yet...


----------



## nicksasa

Yeah a little piece of cardboard with a plastic bag of screws taped to it ...


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12492349*
> It looks like you might have the in and out wrong on the cpu block, Unless you installed it upside down? But its hard to tell from the pic.


its upside down thats just how i put it together to leak test it outside my case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot120;12493059*
> Are those bay fans? What brand? Thanks!


there thermaltake thunderblades the bays are from the case itself

and for anyone with aloud pump
put 1 drop of dishsoap in it and turn it on its side let it sit for a couple min and turn it on its other side do same thing it should be silent now


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;12495350*
> its upside down thats just how i put it together to leak test it outside my case
> 
> there thermaltake thunderblades the bays are from the case itself
> 
> and for anyone with aloud pump
> put 1 drop of dishsoap in it and turn it on its side let it sit for a couple min and turn it on its other side do same thing it should be silent now


You serious about this? my pump at the moment sounds like a fan getting caught on something.. its been like this for the whole leak testing now...

Oh and btw, im done with my leak testing, took some pictures ^_^

Sorry if it's a bit messy, I'm going to sort it out during hte weekend...

Here are some pictures!










and









back when i was using my NH D14,
Idle : 32C
load : 49

Rasa Kit
idle 30C
Load 38C

GPU stock Cooler
Idle: 41C
load: 64C

Rasa Kit
Idle 29C
Load 40C

=D

Btw, I dont have my Crossfire setup at the moment, the 2nd card is making the tube bend... so i had to remove it for now until i get my 2nd waterblock this friday ^_^

Update: OMG!!!! my pump just stopped rattling!!!! It's so freaking quiet now! I cant even hear it anymore!!!


----------



## hot120

What effect does the dish soap have on the pump? Is it the same concept as putting dish soap on a squeling drive belt on a car? I'll try this tonight when I change out my stock fans with the AP-15's, and swap out my discolored clear Primochill with UV Blue! Should be nice.

Links for using soap in a water cooling loop.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/615864-dish-soap.html

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/940722-how-slient-wc-loop-supposed-4.html

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/449289-dish-soap-vs-pt-nuke.html

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/390961-dish-soap-water-wetter.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;12495350*
> its upside down thats just how i put it together to leak test it outside my case
> 
> there thermaltake thunderblades the bays are from the case itself
> 
> and for anyone with aloud pump
> put 1 drop of dishsoap in it and turn it on its side let it sit for a couple min and turn it on its other side do same thing it should be silent now


----------



## mbudden

It's sposed to help get rid of the bubbles.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12496698*
> It's sposed to help get rid of the bubbles.


ohhh... might try this one out, oh and can I join the club now? I haz posted some piccies ^_^


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12496732*
> ohhh... might try this one out, oh and can I join the club now? I haz posted some piccies ^_^


i asked you what kit you had a page or two ago, you never responded.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12496779*
> i asked you what kit you had a page or two ago, you never responded.


Might've missed that one.. the message was on the last post of the last page :S sorry







would've responded if i saw it, honest truth *nod nod*


----------



## TiMmAy Kc

Would the RX360 be enough for my sig rig?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiMmAy Kc;12497365*
> Would the RX360 be enough for my sig rig?


CPU only or CPU&GPU?
If just CPU, over kill. But if CPU&CPU, a RX240 would do you fine. Unless you're wanting to CrossFire. Than RX360.


----------



## xMEATWADx95x

hey i just had a few questions about the XSPC pump since it comes with the sets. i have a custom loop and my XSPC X20 Pump has been really loud lately and makes a weird rattling noise any idea what it is its so annoying im considering going back to my H50


----------



## TiMmAy Kc

Yeah it is for cpu and gpu, Thanks.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xMEATWADx95x;12497465*
> hey i just had a few questions about the XSPC pump since it comes with the sets. i have a custom loop and my XSPC X20 Pump has been really loud lately and makes a weird rattling noise any idea what it is its so annoying im considering going back to my H50


Make sure that ALL the bubbles are out of your loop. Also make sure it's the rattle is not vibration going through the case and not the pump itself. I have little plastic bits on the screws to make sure it doesn't transfer noise into the case chassis.

If you find it's not bubble or rattle from the case related, then contact XSPC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiMmAy Kc;12497494*
> Yeah it is for cpu and gpu, Thanks.


Then a RX240 would be best. If you're looking to expand from that. A RX360 would suit you best.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiMmAy Kc;12497494*
> Yeah it is for cpu and gpu, Thanks.


rx240 or rs360 and for the best cooling a rx360.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiMmAy Kc;12497365*
> Would the RX360 be enough for my sig rig?


RX360 should cope w/ your dual gpu card and your cpu.


----------



## hot120

@ mbudden. Would it be a good idea to post something on the front page about the pump issue? It seems quite a few people are coming in asking questions that have already been answered about the pump noise. Since we know it is an issue, and XSPC as well, we're not spreading nasty rumours or anything. I personally read through all the pages up to this point to gain all the knowledge I know have about the kit and water cooling in general, but I don't think the average board member will.


----------



## mbudden

The problem is, the bad pump issue is a hit or miss issue.
Some people are experiencing problems. But some people aren't.
You also have to take in account that the specs of the pump are up to 45dBs, anything after that. Then it is taken into consideration for replacement.

You have to also take into an account that the people who're buying this kit are new to WC'ing and there for don't really know how to properly get rid of bubbles etc. Some of these issues might be causes by user error, and not by XSPC themselves.

I am fortunate enough to have a good pump, I know there have been some users in the past that have had bad pumps. I would much rather people post in here that they are having a pump issue so we can help troubleshoot them, rather than them go storm off to XSPC on a whim. I'd rather this thread be the last resort before having them go to XSPC with their issue. Some people have had the issue of noisy pumps but only to be fixed by the users in here, whither it be bubbles in the loop or case vibration.


----------



## liquoredonlife

I think people who post pump issues need to clearly state that they've properly bled the air out of the system (invert/rotate/shake the radiator a few times), that they've tried running the pump freefloating (outside of the case), that they never ran the pump with the water level below the top of the pump and all else fails, post a video - along side something of known volume, like a cellphone ringtone.

Else, I'm going to go with user error. Certainly doesn't help that XSPC doesn't really include any instructions beyond mounting the CPU block.


----------



## nicksasa

Do you need more instructions then ?

I mean, bolting a rad and putting the tubing on isn't that hard is it ?

Also vibrations can make it loud, i remember when i had it out of my system to flush my rad & cpu block it made noise when it was just laying on the table.


----------



## CP2

Im running 2 rads and 3 waterblocks. My single res/pump combo is flowing just fine.


----------



## mbudden

The problem is, you really don't need instructions on how to put the kit together.
Once it's in front of you, I mean. It's pretty straight forward. You can't really mess it up. The problem is, people don't know how to troubleshoot the problems they are having. That's what this thread is for.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12496406*
> You serious about this? my pump at the moment sounds like a fan getting caught on something.. its been like this for the whole leak testing now...
> 
> Oh and btw, im done with my leak testing, took some pictures ^_^
> 
> Sorry if it's a bit messy, I'm going to sort it out during hte weekend...
> 
> Here are some pictures!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> back when i was using my NH D14,
> Idle : 32C
> load : 49
> 
> Rasa Kit
> idle 30C
> Load 38C
> 
> GPU stock Cooler
> Idle: 41C
> load: 64C
> 
> Rasa Kit
> Idle 29C
> Load 40C
> 
> =D
> 
> Btw, I dont have my Crossfire setup at the moment, the 2nd card is making the tube bend... so i had to remove it for now until i get my 2nd waterblock this friday ^_^
> 
> Update: OMG!!!! my pump just stopped rattling!!!! It's so freaking quiet now! I cant even hear it anymore!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot120;12496613*
> What effect does the dish soap have on the pump? Is it the same concept as putting dish soap on a squeling drive belt on a car? I'll try this tonight when I change out my stock fans with the AP-15's, and swap out my discolored clear Primochill with UV Blue! Should be nice.
> 
> Links for using soap in a water cooling loop.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/615864-dish-soap.html
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/940722-how-slient-wc-loop-supposed-4.html
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/449289-dish-soap-vs-pt-nuke.html
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/390961-dish-soap-water-wetter.html


all i know is my pump was louder than my 94cfm fans at first 2 drops of dish soap and i turned it on its side let it sitfor a couple min then turned it on its other side
its dead silent now and this was outside the case
14 hours later there isnt a single bubble in it








im very happy with this kit


----------



## microman

So my RS240 kit is going to be turned into a gpu kit and paired with a RX240 and the cpu will be cooled by a RX360! got all the radiators and the second res/pump today. Will take LOTS of pictures.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


So my RS240 kit is going to be turned into a gpu kit and paired with a RX240 and the cpu will be cooled by a RX360! got all the radiators and the second res/pump today. Will take LOTS of pictures.


Sounds like one crazy setup







Can't wait to see it


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CP2*


Im running 2 rads and 3 waterblocks. My single res/pump combo is flowing just fine.


planning to run 2x360 on mine too...just holding back coz dont know if it will decrease performance with 2 big rads on the 750 pump...well if its not goin to be a bad thing to do well might as well go and order my other 360 this friday...btw i just track my order from last week...

it will be coming TOMORROW....weeeeeee cant wait!!!!


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Sounds like one crazy setup







Can't wait to see it










here's what ive got so far









This is what it looks like with just The rs240 kit


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hot120*


@TheSandman: Your tubing looks brownish/green like mine. I have Primochill too! I made sure my rad was super clean. Wonder what caused it?


Yes it did turn color and I also have the Primochill. Only thing I didn't do was to heat the distilled water when flushing the radiator. Must have been it as far as I can tell. Used an entire gallon plus to flush too. Damn it lol. The bright side of it is I'm seriously thinking about taking the water block off and than surface grinding the mating surface before lapping for finish any way. When I checked it for flatness it was as bad (if not worse) than the pic in the OP when it was shown being checked with a new razor blade. I was not impressed at all. My Mugen HS was flat as heck (less than .001) but this WB must be at least .003 to .004" out.
Hey but at least my pump is silent so I'm not complaining to loudly after hearing so many complaints with systems purchased the same week as mine.


----------



## selectstriker2

Got my new sig rig all setup
NZXT Vulcan
Asus Rampage III Gene
Core i7 970 @ 4.2 Ghz HT on currently
6 GB Gskill DDR3 1600 Mhz RAM 7-8-7-20 1T
Asus GTX 470 OC to 800/1600/1750
XSPC RASA RS240
GSkill Sniper 60gb SSD
2x1tb Samsung Spinpoint F3 in Raid 0
NZXT Hale 90 650W


















Gotta work on some cable management once I do a little modding to the case
(I currently cannot put either side panel on !)


----------



## JMCB

My water is sadly a tint of green. Been running it since December. I have a killcoil in there. Hmmm...Going to dump it, clean it, and go for it again. What's the best way to clean the blocks, radiator, etc?

I'm probably just going to redo the setup with all new tubing. Would 3/4" OD / 1/2'' ID tubing work with these barbs that come with the XSPC kit, well? Also, my setup was a tight fit and my tank is stuck. What is the best way to drain this bad boy? I don't really want to risk pulling a tube and dumping water everywhere. Ideas?

Thanks!


----------



## alawadhi3000

Results:-

RS240 with stock fans running as Intake. CPU Only.

Ambient Temp 25C.
Case Temp 29C.

i7 [email protected] 4.0GHz HT 1.3V (1.25V after Vdroop).

Prime95 max temps 69/70/69/66 = 68.5C.

I expected better temps from this kit.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000*


Results:-

RS240 with stock fans running as Intake. CPU Only.

Ambient Temp 25C.
Case Temp 29C.

i7 [email protected] 4.0GHz HT 1.3V (1.25V after Vdroop).

Prime95 max temps 69/70/69/66 = 68.5C.

I expected better temps from this kit.










What Tim did you use? And make sure all the air is out of the loop, because that is alittle high for 4.0.


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


What Tim did you use? And make sure all the air is out of the loop, because that is alittle high for 4.0.


Noctua NT-H1.

I did everything I can to get the bubbles out including tilting the case, now all I see is a few tiny bubbles in the res around the pump.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000*


Noctua NT-H1.

I did everything I can to get the bubbles out including tilting the case, now all I see is a few tiny bubbles in the res around the pump.


 What thermal paste did you use? If it was the stuff that came with the kit you need to order something better. Other then that im not sure. It might just be a hot chip.


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


What thermal paste did you use? If it was the stuff that came with the kit you need to order something better. Other then that im not sure. It might just be a hot chip.


Noctua NT-H1 is a thermal paste.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000*


Noctua NT-H1 is a thermal paste.










Yea I just seen that lol I would wait a week because there's prolly still air in the system somewhere. If it doesn't come down, I would remount the cpu block. Maybe to much Tim, or maybe not enough. Hard to get right sometimes.


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12503798*
> Yea I just seen that lol I would wait a week because there's prolly still air in the system somewhere. If it doesn't come down, I would remount the cpu block. Maybe to much Tim, or maybe not enough. Hard to get right sometimes.


Its not the TIM trust me, I've installed over 100 aftermarket air coolers, however this is my first WC kit.


----------



## Havoknova

Tim of noctua is a bit thick so make sure u put a little bit and make sure u take ur time to spread it..coz if you put too much it will not perform that good..


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000;12503834*
> Its not the TIM trust me, I've installed over 100 aftermarket air coolers, however this is my first WC kit.


Thats fine, But its not going to be perfect every time







Its more luck then skill when it comes to applying tim some times


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000;12503361*
> Results:-
> 
> RS240 with stock fans running as Intake. CPU Only.
> 
> Ambient Temp 25C.
> Case Temp 29C.
> 
> i7 [email protected] 4.0GHz HT 1.3V (1.25V after Vdroop).
> 
> Prime95 max temps 69/70/69/66 = 68.5C.
> 
> I expected better temps from this kit.


Crank down on those thumb screws. Need a ton of pressure to provide the sufficient contact for that rice grain of TIM you put on.

My temps are almost 10C lower than yours across the board (ambient 17C, case 19C, CPU 48/59/54/53). Rad mounted externally.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Some pictures-


























































Waiting on some more Scythe GT's and a 3-pin triple splitter cable to come before I get serious about sleeving and redoing the cable management. Also gonna order that Koolance quick release radiator bracket with 140mm to 120mm adapter. In due time.


----------



## Kahbrohn

How much water do the dual bay reservoirs hold? (the combo pump/res and the res only)


----------



## Havoknova

Just got my rasa 360 kit here at work..goin to post some pix later...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12508925*
> Just got my rasa 360 kit here at work..goin to post some pix later...


Gratz..

You look sick. You should go home EARLY today to "rest".


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12509541*
> Gratz..
> 
> You look sick. You should go home EARLY today to "rest".


Tried to pull 1 on my boss..i start coughing and guess what he said "is that kit carry ebola virus or something wahahah" and we start laughing..

I guess ur advise didnt work lolz..


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12508925*
> Just got my rasa 360 kit here at work..goin to post some pix later...


congratz


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12501189*
> here's what ive got so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with just The rs240 kit


and here are the rest!








Gonna work on it tomorrow and transform my RS240 kit into a BEAST!!!


----------



## MorbEIn

Had a parcel sent to me at work cuz it requires my signature and i wasn't at home during that day... never again.. colleagues get nosy on what you do outside of work... >.> ohh you build computers, can you build me one? they keep on going on and on and on about it.. but they never really get serious...
]

Edit: That's a very cool looking build! I want a corsiar case as well.. :S


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12510021*
> Had a parcel sent to me at work cuz it requires my signature and i wasn't at home during that day... never again.. colleagues get nosy on what you do outside of work... >.> ohh you build computers, can you build me one? they keep on going on and on and on about it.. but they never really get serious...
> ]
> 
> Edit: That's a very cool looking build! I want a corsiar case as well.. :S


Thanks dude~


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12510021*
> Had a parcel sent to me at work cuz it requires my signature and i wasn't at home during that day... never again.. colleagues get nosy on what you do outside of work... >.> ohh you build computers, can you build me one? they keep on going on and on and on about it.. but they never really get serious...
> ]
> 
> Edit: That's a very cool looking build! I want a corsiar case as well.. :S


Sounds like my job... then I show them pictures of my machine tell them its running 5 Ghz and then they just kinda step back and smile... cuz they have no clue what I'm talking about and kinda get scared... they usually want a computer to just work... I want one that WORKS...









I've had at least 6 people here inquire about me building a machine. I tell them that a good build will cost them 300ish bucks 400 with operating system and their jaw drops... I guess they don't think it can perform. I usually build Athlon II x4 machines. Only two acually went threw with it... lets just put it this way... they love et. and I don't feel sorry for the people who didn't grab that deal... considering I'm just building it for fun... now I charge more to build em... usually $500. Too bad for them...









The ones that know what I'm talking about are like... u did what... u have what...







that thing must be monster...


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12504494*
> Crank down on those thumb screws. Need a ton of pressure to provide the sufficient contact for that rice grain of TIM you put on.
> 
> My temps are almost 10C lower than yours across the board (ambient 17C, case 19C, CPU 48/59/54/53). Rad mounted externally.


In the instructions for the block it says that you should crack all screws equally and thats what I did when installing, now I did what you suggested and it definitely helped.

i7 [email protected] 4.0GHz HT 1.3V (1.25V after Vdrop).

*Before:-*
Ambient/Case 25C/29C.
Prime95 max temps 69/70/69/66 = 68.5C.
Delta = 39.5C.

*After:-*
Ambient/Case 25.5C/30C.
Prime95 max temps 67/66/66/64 = 65.8C.
Delta = 35.8C.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12510021*
> Had a parcel sent to me at work cuz it requires my signature and i wasn't at home during that day... never again.. colleagues get nosy on what you do outside of work... >.> ohh you build computers, can you build me one? they keep on going on and on and on about it.. but they never really get serious...
> ]
> 
> Edit: That's a very cool looking build! I want a corsiar case as well.. :S


All my co-workers are excited to see my build after i finish it..and i do shipping and recieving on my job place so all the packages go straight to me wahahah...


----------



## Havoknova

@microman

Looks beastly already its not put on yet..wahaha..
Hopefully it will turn out great..goodluck..


----------



## Canusticle

Might as well add me up on this club, gonna be busy tonight!!!
XSPC RASA 750 RX360 kit


----------



## Kahbrohn

Sure! For a price...









Then you tell them "Here's my website... Have a look and read the FAQ section for pricing."

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12510021*
> Had a parcel sent to me at work cuz it requires my signature and i wasn't at home during that day... never again.. colleagues get nosy on what you do outside of work... >.> ohh you build computers, _*can you build me one*_? they keep on going on and on and on about it.. but they never really get serious...
> ]
> 
> Edit: That's a very cool looking build! I want a corsiar case as well.. :S


----------



## Kahbrohn

What's in the bottles???

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canusticle;12510516*
> Might as well add me up on this club, gonna be busy tonight!!!
> XSPC RASA 750 RX360 kit


----------



## mbudden

Dye.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ahhhh... ok. Would have wished it were Kahlua or something...









That much though (That's why I was asking)? Would have thought it required less or is it the dye/coolant mixed already?

(I am from the food coloring age were the food coloring came in these itsy bitsy bottles)


----------



## Canusticle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


What's in the bottles???


Feser One -Black/UV Blue Non-Conductive Mixed Fluid

@ Kabbrohn, its 2 1000ml bottles. I dont like to pay for shipping & duties lots, so i figured i might as well have enough last me a while.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Canusticle*


Feser One -Black/UV Blue Fluid


Cool... So it's clack to the naked eye but blue under UV light?


----------



## Canusticle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Cool... So it's clack to the naked eye but blue under UV light?


It looks really dark blue to me. I will have to wait until its in the res to tell for sure. I will post some pics once its up and running.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Canusticle*


It looks really dark blue to me. I will have to wait until its in the res to tell for sure. I will post some pics once its up and running.



Cool... PIX when done!!!


----------



## nicksasa

I guess it's the same as black uv tube. Looks black without uv but under uv light it looks blue/white.


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


I guess it's the same as black uv tube. Looks black without uv but under uv light it looks blue/white.


nah its not the same because uv tubes dont gunk up your blocks and dye everything in your loop.


----------



## nicksasa

I don't believe just dye can gunk up your blocks. But maybe if you combine pt_nuke and some pre mixed coolant with dye in it.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


I don't believe just dye can gunk up your blocks. But maybe if you combine pt_nuke and some pre mixed coolant with dye in it.


*waits for the horror stories links*

You should really do a little research.


----------



## Havoknova

rasa 360 fresh from work....


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


I don't believe just dye can gunk up your blocks. But maybe if you combine pt_nuke and some pre mixed coolant with dye in it.


its mostly the dye that does the damage...


----------



## MorbEIn

can you see any screws included to get the fans screwed on to your rad?


----------



## mbudden

They're in the box with the rad.
Wrapped in a cardboard piece wrapped with tape.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


They're in the box with the rad.
Wrapped in a cardboard piece wrapped with tape.


I think the site where i bought it forgot to put those screws in... Turned the boxes i got upside down... and no screws...

A question, I have the RS360 yes, tomorrow, I'll get my 2nd 6870 waterblock, reckon the kit can handle 2 GPU, 1 CPU? or should i get another rad? 120 rad though, bigger than that and it wont fit in my case...

next month i'll be getting TJ11 ^_^ if the missus allows me...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


can you see any screws included to get the fans screwed on to your rad?


its inside the rad box and its in a little cardboard at the side of the rad

but its only 3 fan screw so if u want to do a push pull u still need to buy another 12pcs of screw to mount the extra 3 fans...


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Cool... So it's clack to the naked eye but blue under UV light?


Kahbrohn no te recomiendo q uses colorantes, por menos q le heches deja muchos residuos en los bloques y pa limpiarlos es una jo....., si quieres color, tubos de color o q sean UV, pal liquido solo usa agua *destilada* y tira un kill coil o dos y con eso es suficiente.


----------



## Dissentience

Got my Primochill UV Blue tubing for when I put my loop back together


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


Kahbrohn no te recomiendo q uses colorantes, por menos q le heches deja muchos residuos en los bloques y pa limpiarlos es una jo....., si quieres color, tubos de color o q sean UV, pal liquido solo usa agua *destilada* y tira un kill coil o dos y con eso es suficiente.


^ Lo que el dijo


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ivan/drka0tic - sent you guys PM's...









Q bueno q hay latinos aqui!!! Saludos!


----------



## hot120

So do I! Will be installing the new tubing, replacing the fans with AP-15's, and changing my fittings with Bitspower compression fittings.

Also, attached are some pics after using one drop of Dawn liquid soap. Let me tell you, my pump is nearly silent now. The stuff works! After I install my new fans, my computer will be much quieter!

Last thing, I included a picture of my discolored Primochill clear tubing. I thoroughly flushed my radiator, and soaked all my parts in distilled water prior to installation. Not sure what went wrong. The water in my reservoir is crystal clear though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Got my Primochill UV Blue tubing for when I put my loop back together


----------



## Canusticle

Well, here are some pics of the setup and leak testing. 4 hours in, so far so good










































BTW, Sleeving happens tomorrow!!


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Canusticle;12516281*
> Well, here are some pics of the setup and leak testing. 4 hours in, so far so good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, Sleeving happens tomorrow!!


Looking good so far.


----------



## stonedzen

Consider me part of the club









XSPC RS240 x2
XSPC GPU block
XSPC CPU block
XSPC 750 res/pump
Primoflex Black Tubing 1/2" OD








100% Badassness


----------



## The Sandman

Wondering if any other RS360 radiator owners notice a 100 - 125 drop in rpm with the center fan location? Mine seems to have some kind of resistance issue with just the center fan location even with GT AP-15's installed in either pull, and currently push config. Even went as far as to replace the fan with a brand new one and same damn thing lol. The fan I removed free spins at normal 1856 rpm.


----------



## nicksasa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stonedzen;12516970*
> Consider me part of the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC RS240 x2
> XSPC GPU block
> XSPC CPU block
> XSPC 750 res/pump
> Primoflex Black Tubing 1/2" OD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 100% Badassness


What block did you use for that gigabyte gtx460 oc ? I tought full cover blocks didn't fit.


----------



## stonedzen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12517911*
> What block did you use for that gigabyte gtx460 oc ? I tought full cover blocks didn't fit.


Full covers dont fit as far as I know. I'm using the XSPC universal GPU block. Cools the GPU better than I ever expected but the 460's Mosfets are crazy hot....heating up that whole side of the pcb. Thinking I should replace the mosfet heatsink.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stonedzen;12518440*
> Full covers dont fit as far as I know. I'm using the XSPC universal GPU block. Cools the GPU better than I ever expected but the 460's Mosfets are crazy hot....heating up that whole side of the pcb. Thinking I should replace the mosfet heatsink.


Yea with a Universal GPU block you really should have heatsinks on them


----------



## pujo

count me in. although after setting it up I noticed the temps are a bit high than i expected. Running 4ghz @ 1.248V, idle temp is around 48C and load temp is 72C after running prime.

Now it could my ambient temp as it is sorta hot down here is australia so i cranked the air conditioning to about 20C and now its idling at 43C and 66C full 67C full load.

what do you guys think?

EDIT: i was so excited to set this thing up that i forgot to rinse the radiator!







should i start over??


----------



## Kahbrohn

Make sure all air bubbles are out of your loop. Using the 24-pin jumper on the PSU, roll that computer case in every angle you can think of to insure all the air has been removed from the loop and into the res. Between rollings, set the computer down and open the res to make "room" for air.

As for the rad rinsing it's up to you at this point. Many have not done a flushing and all is fine. I did have some junk but I feel I may have been an exception.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pujo;12519642*
> count me in. although after setting it up I noticed the temps are a bit high than i expected. Running 4ghz @ 1.248V, idle temp is around 48C and load temp is 72C after running prime.
> 
> Now it could my ambient temp as it is sorta hot down here is australia so i cranked the air conditioning to about 20C and now its idling at 43C and 66C full 67C full load.
> 
> what do you guys think?
> 
> EDIT: i was so excited to set this thing up that i forgot to rinse the radiator!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should i start over??


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pujo;12519642*
> count me in. although after setting it up I noticed the temps are a bit high than i expected. Running 4ghz @ 1.248V, idle temp is around 48C and load temp is 72C after running prime.
> 
> Now it could my ambient temp as it is sorta hot down here is australia so i cranked the air conditioning to about 20C and now its idling at 43C and 66C full 67C full load.
> 
> what do you guys think?
> 
> EDIT: i was so excited to set this thing up that i forgot to rinse the radiator!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should i start over??


I didn't rinse my radiator... I've still got clear water... I'm taking it apart tomarrow to rinse everything anyways... Just depends on how your water looks... Though I have already flushed it once... this will be my third time... its to replace tubing and fans on the rad.


----------



## pujo

the water is pretty clear. any thoughts on my temps?


----------



## Kahbrohn

I'll let someone from the Intel community to answer that one for you. I have always been with AMD so I can't say for sure. I believe that mid-60's to high-60's should be your range but I can't say for sure.

As for clear water... "junk" could get trapped in your CPU waterblock for example an you would never know it unless you opened it up and inspected (easy to do BTW). So clear waters is NOT necessarily a sign of good health.


----------



## nicksasa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stonedzen;12518440*
> Full covers dont fit as far as I know. I'm using the XSPC universal GPU block. Cools the GPU better than I ever expected but the 460's Mosfets are crazy hot....heating up that whole side of the pcb. Thinking I should replace the mosfet heatsink.


Put some paste under that heatsink and attach a 90mm fan or so to it with zip ties. Also was that the XSPC Rasa GPU block ?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12518453*
> Yea with a Universal GPU block you really should have heatsinks on them


Just the person i need to ask..is ur 5770 water cooled too??if yes,can u take a photo of it..And what mosfet cooler did u use..coz right now theres no full cover block for 5770..went on ek but it oit of stock..so ill go with universal gpu block but dont know what mosfet cooler ill get..


----------



## nicksasa

I wasn't planning on buying a gpu block, but it's universal so I think I'm going to get one


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pujo*


the water is pretty clear. any thoughts on my temps?


Your temps are definitely high, I'm running [email protected] with HT and the temps are ~65C with no AC, 60C with AC @22C.

I also have RS240 vs your RX360.


----------



## AMDMAXX

At 4.0 Ghz I think 1.2 ish volts I'm hitting 55 degrees Celcius... I will be cleaning it out every 3-5 months normally but I just want to make sure everything is running well... yes things can get stuck on the cpu block or other things... but I didn't see the need... I would have seen things in the loop as soon as I started it up... and the only thing I saw was bubbles...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pujo*


count me in. although after setting it up I noticed the temps are a bit high than i expected. Running 4ghz @ 1.248V, idle temp is around 48C and load temp is 72C after running prime.

Now it could my ambient temp as it is sorta hot down here is australia so i cranked the air conditioning to about 20C and now its idling at 43C and 66C full 67C full load.

what do you guys think?

EDIT: i was so excited to set this thing up that i forgot to rinse the radiator!







should i start over??


I see anywhere from 34 to 41c at idle, and 55C to 66c under load. My room never really sees above 24C with the AC in the house. I think your temps are a tad high. Did you use goog thermal paste under the CPU block? I used Ceramique and have the thumbs screws adjusted about 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 turns down. Also, I tint my thermal paste to the CPU block and use a 5mm size dab of paste on the CPU. Seems to work fine this way.


----------



## terence52

hi guys, finally mounted the rasa onto my stacker.
issue is still temps and this time it isnt placement issue. LOL
idles @ 38C loads @ 51C
Using a 1090t @ 4ghz @ 1.42v
northbridge @ 2.9ghz
ambient at my side is around ~30.
is it normal?
using a rasa rs240 with the stock fans push, yate loons pull. 
fans @ around 1.3k rpm for the push fans, 1.6k for pull
paste used it thermalright chill factor 3
thanks
Edit: yes. most if not all of the air should have been bled out. LOL


----------



## liquoredonlife

If your temps seem high, couple things:

-Make 110% certain you pulled off the plastic layer off the bottom of the CPU block (yes, someone did this, and their temps were a good 15-20C higher than expected). There were two plastic covers- one just for the base of the block and one that wraps the entire block. The one that covers the whole block is pictured here:










-CRANK HARD on those CPU mounting thumb screws. You need high pressure to get it seated properly. The amount you use depends on the kind of thermal paste you're using. Here's a list of the best stuff. You should always test the amount of thermal paste and pressure you just used by undoing it all, inspecting and starting over (due to air bubbles)- or resmooth it once lifted.

Here's a useful video:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4[/ame]


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


If your temps seem high, couple things:

-Make 110% certain you pulled off the plastic layer off the bottom of the CPU block (yes, someone did this, and their temps were a good 15-20C higher than expected). There were two plastic covers- one just for the base of the block and one that wraps the entire block. The one that covers the whole block is pictured here:


I done that... wasent too proud either...

temps were at 80 degrees celcius at stock... :O


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


I done that... wasent too proud either...

temps were at 80 degrees celcius at stock... :O


I lol on this 1..good for friday laugh...lessson learned i guess..

Got my last set of order today..going to build mine next week..

Ek rad 240
T connector
14 pcs of black pressure clamps 2 yate loon green led fans..
Flow meter..

Bye 150 bucks see u next week..


----------



## mbudden

Why do you need a flow meter?


----------



## liquoredonlife

Some flow meters can be tapped into the system monitoring so that if flow falls below a certain value (like, say your pump dies), it'll shut the system off.


----------



## nicksasa

My temps are now 46Â°C with these settings, if i add the xspc rasa gpu block i guess it will be ~50Â°C ?


----------



## liquoredonlife

I have a water temp monitor before my CPU and one after my GPU. Water temp wise, the max delta I've seen between the two is around 2-2.5C. This is with folding running on the CPU, and playing SC2 at the same time (with GPU at 100%). I've never tested with just the CPU, and I also have an RS360.

My loop:

res/pump->radiator->temp sensor->cpu->gpu->temp sensor->res/pump


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


Some flow meters can be tapped into the system monitoring so that if flow falls below a certain value (like, say your pump dies), it'll shut the system off.


U got that right!!!

Better protect ur investment..

Coz if that pump dies and u sleepingor ur away from ur computer it will definitely burn ur build away.. So better be safe than sorry :$


----------



## mbudden

This is why I have limits set in my BIOS not to mention, I hibernate my computer at night. No need to have your computer running all night long.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


This is why I have limits set in my BIOS not to mention, I hibernate my computer at night. No need to have your computer running all night long.


Gaming purposes

Why i said tha is bcoz i got 2 character or vend mode for items i got for the day so need to sell that for overnight..but all the time..so while im sleeping i got my vend up..so that a great example for a flow meter on my water cooling or maybe 1 of the example too is prime for 24 hour straight..u cant monitor it 24 hour straight so if ever ur pump goes hehehe it will shut it down for u


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


I lol on this 1..good for friday laugh...lessson learned i guess..

Got my last set of order today..going to build mine next week..

Ek rad 240
T connector
14 pcs of black pressure clamps 2 yate loon green led fans..
Flow meter..

Bye 150 bucks see u next week..


I wasent exactly expecting them to be putting plastic on plastic... and I put the thermal paste on the cpu so... It could happen to anyone if you do your setup like me... its not like it hurts anything either... the cpu just gets throttled if it hits tj max.


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


No need to have your computer running all night long.


Folding.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


I wasent exactly expecting them to be putting plastic on plastic... and I put the thermal paste on the cpu so... It could happen to anyone if you do your setup like me... its not like it hurts anything either... the cpu just gets throttled if it hits tj max.


Maybe it just excitement for the watercooling build thats y u forgot..

And im in the place too so ill make sure check the plastic heehe..


----------



## Klaufi

Well,
Thought i would post pics of my kit finally installed in to a case i just made for a modding competition.

Rs360, 6870 with a EK FC nickel block on the way also..


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


This is why I have limits set in my BIOS not to mention, I hibernate my computer at night. No need to have your computer running all night long.


Folding, serving, downloading, uploading, encoding, rendering - all kinds of reasons to leave your computer running all night or all day long.


----------



## bennieboi6969

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Klaufi*


Well,
Thought i would post pics of my kit finally installed in to a case i just made for a modding competition.

Rs360, 6870 with a EK FC nickel block on the way also..



















hey do u have a build log of that build


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Just the person i need to ask..is ur 5770 water cooled too??if yes,can u take a photo of it..And what mosfet cooler did u use..coz right now theres no full cover block for 5770..went on ek but it oit of stock..so ill go with universal gpu block but dont know what mosfet cooler ill get..


No im not going to try to water cool my 3 5770's







Mostly because there out when the 6990 comes out







Thats going to get water cooled for sure


----------



## pujo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I see anywhere from 34 to 41c at idle, and 55C to 66c under load. My room never really sees above 24C with the AC in the house. I think your temps are a tad high. Did you use goog thermal paste under the CPU block? I used Ceramique and have the thumbs screws adjusted about 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 turns down. Also, I tint my thermal paste to the CPU block and use a 5mm size dab of paste on the CPU. Seems to work fine this way.



i'm using ocz freeze with rice grain method. it could really be the ambient temp as i've already tried reseating. Ambient temp is arpund 29C.


----------



## nden

I have a quick question, lazy doing the search









Does this kit (Rasa 750 RS240) cpu block fit with the new intel socket 1155?

I'm planning to get this kit soon. Thanks


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


This is why I have limits set in my BIOS not to mention, I hibernate my computer at night. No need to have your computer running all night long.


Been trying to get Mrs. Kah to hibernate but no luck...


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nden*


I have a quick question, lazy doing the search









Does this kit (Rasa 750 RS240) cpu block fit with the new intel socket 1155?

I'm planning to get this kit soon. Thanks


Yes. Any cooler compatible with 1156 will be compatible with 1155.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Been trying to get Mrs. Kah to hibernate but no luck...










lol.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nden*


I have a quick question, lazy doing the search









Does this kit (Rasa 750 RS240) cpu block fit with the new intel socket 1155?

I'm planning to get this kit soon. Thanks


As far as I know its the same as 1156, so it should work just fine.


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12525874*
> Yes. Any cooler compatible with 1156 will be compatible with 1155.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12525881*
> As far as I know its the same as 1156, so it should work just fine.


Thanks. Just ordered the kit from my local store, hope it should be here soon.


----------



## thecyb0rg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12526182*
> Thanks. Just ordered the kit from my local store, hope it should be here soon.


Ugh. I so want a RASA 360, but it won't fit in my CoolerMaster Storm Scout. I could settle for a 240 rad and mount it vertically in the drive bay area where my H70 rad currently sits -- I think.

What fans would you recommend if noise is of no concern to me (I currently use Ultra Kaze 3000's at full blast 24/7)


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pujo;12525771*
> i'm using ocz freeze with rice grain method. it could really be the ambient temp as i've already tried reseating. Ambient temp is arpund 29C.


Actually, now that I think about, I didn't use the 5mm pea size apply of Ceramique. I tinted the CPU block and applied a line 2mm wide of Ceramique instead. I did notice lower temps, but I also changed from the X20 750 pump to a DDC pump and increased my water to coolant ratio along with more tubing, so that could account for my lower current temps compared to my original build.


----------



## hot120

New Primochill tubing, Bitspower compression fittings, and AP-15's in pull. Also, used a drop of blue Dawn liquid soap. Pump runs nice and smooth, and much quieter than before. Bleeding took about three minutes using the Dawn. I can attest to the validity of the soap working to eliminate bubbles and quiet the pump.

I also had to clean my CPU block. There were some small black particles in the grooves. Used hot water and ketchup.

AP-15's are everything everyone said they would be. They spin for about eight seconds after disconnecting power to the fans. Super quiet. Pushing much more air than the stock vans that came with the kit.


----------



## ezveedub

My new fans are Koolance 120mm led fans from Performance PCs. At 2K rpms, they are quieter than stock fans supplied.


----------



## MorbEIn

a question, if i have my loop set up like this
res> gpu > cpu > rad

will the gpu's temp be transferred to the cpu? cuz everytime i do furmark, the gpu hits load 43 so as the cpu, my gpu idles at 30-32, and again, so as my cpu...if that's so, will adding a 120 rad between the gpu and cpu help?

thanks ^_^


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12529674*
> a question, if i have my loop set up like this
> res> gpu > cpu > rad
> 
> will the gpu's temp be transferred to the cpu? cuz everytime i do furmark, the gpu hits load 43 so as the cpu, my gpu idles at 30-32, and again, so as my cpu...if that's so, will adding a 120 rad between the gpu and cpu help?
> 
> thanks ^_^


Im sure it will help a little but ive never seen gpu before cpu. Most of the time you do cpu first because it makes more heat then the gpu. When I go to water cool a gpu im going to run
res/pump > RX360 rad > cpu > RX120 rad > gpu


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12529808*
> Im sure it will help a little but ive never seen gpu before cpu. Most of the time you do cpu first because it makes more heat then the gpu.


hehe yeh i know, i did it that way because of the way my system is set... hard to WC a FT02







but i'll try something out to get cpu > GPU

Edit, Only way I can do it is

Res > Rad > cpu > GPu >

think that will work?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


hehe yeh i know, i did it that way because of the way my system is set... hard to WC a FT02







but i'll try something out to get cpu > GPU

Edit, Only way I can do it is

Res > Rad > cpu > GPu >

think that will work?


That should work fine. The CPU needs the coolest coolant first, while the GPUs can usually handle more heat..


----------



## Havoknova

Do u think this 1 is over kill???

Res/pump> 240 fat rad > mobo full cover block > rs360 rad > cpu > res/pump...

Planning to put a new video card next month with water block but for next weeks build will be the one on top..


----------



## mbudden

You should be fine, but there is no need for a motherboard waterblock. Other than adding restriction to your loop.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Do u think this 1 is over kill???

Res/pump> 240 fat rad > mobo full cover block > rs360 rad > cpu > res/pump...

Planning to put a new video card next month with water block but for next weeks build will be the one on top..


Just my opinion but since the mobo puts out more heat, I'd invert the RADS. Put the larger heat dissipating rad on the hotter component. A 240 can handle the CPU alone just fine as far as I have heard.

My concern is if the pump (which I have heard conflicting stories so I am half/half on the issue) would have enough head to handle the whole loop.

I agree with mbudden below though...


----------



## MorbEIn

sorted some of the cables and tubing and all that ^_^, Not done yet, i think instead of going for

res > rad > cpu > gpu

I'll just go for

Res > GPU > 120rad > CPU > 360rad

I'm running with Deionised water + 2 drops of PT Nuke + Silver Kill Coil
I'm not really into lights and all that so yeh, no UV lights ^_^

I'm sorry for the crappy quality...
anyhow, here are some pics
**I apologize if it's not up to your standards, im not that creative


















normally, there are 3 180mm fans, i removed the rear and middle fans to avoid conflict with the push fans

I have 6 AP-15's in push pull config, 
Idle CPU temp 19
Load 42

Idle GPU temp 28C
Load 44C









I'm just waiting for my 2nd waterblock to arrive.. it didnt arrive this friday.. >.> so hopefully monday.. 









I have the Zalman MFC1 plus, an old fan controller, I pushed my bezels further inwards, forgot to pull them back out... sorry for the messy room









here are some random pics


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


You should be fine, but there is no need for a motherboard waterblock. Other than adding restriction to your loop.


Thats y i put the mbo full cover block coz the mobo extreme generate alot of heat specialy on 3000 and up..on heatsink alone it about around 45 and in full load it can go up to 60..so need to have it in water..

Its just how the asus extreme mobo..


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


Had some spare time and the missus is out so i sorted some of the cables and tubing and all that ^_^, Not done yet, i think instead of going for

res > rad > cpu > gpu

I'll just go for

Res > GPU > 120rad > CPU > 360rad

I'm running with Deionised water + 2 drops of PT Nuke + Silver Kill Coil
I'm not really into lights and all that so yeh, no UV lights ^_^

I'm sorry for the crappy quality...
anyhow, here are some pics
**I apologize if it's not up to your standards, im not that creative


















normally, there are 3 180mm fans, i removed the rear and middle fans to avoid conflict with the push fans

I have 6 AP-15's in push pull config, 
Idle CPU temp 19
Load 42

Idle GPU temp 28C
Load 44C









I'm just waiting for my 2nd waterblock to arrive.. it didnt arrive this friday.. >.> so hopefully monday.. 









I have the Zalman MFC1 plus, an old fan controller, I pushed my bezels further inwards, forgot to pull them back out... sorry for the messy room









here are some random pics




























Your system vents the radiator downwards under the case, correct?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Just my opinion but since the mobo puts out more heat, I'd invert the RADS. Put the larger heat dissipating rad on the hotter component. A 240 can handle the CPU alone just fine as far as I have heard.

My concern is if the pump (which I have heard conflicting stories so I am half/half on the issue) would have enough head to handle the whole loop.

I agree with mbudden below though...










Ill try and monitor the flow rate on my flow meter if the pump cant handle the restriction of the mobo full cover..if it comes to worse ill just buy me a res and a mcp655 pump..really need something to cool that nb/sb of the asus extreme..and if the paste cures in ill try and put it too 4.5gzz and see how it runs..


----------



## MorbEIn

it sucks air from the opening below and goes upwards


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Ill try and monitor the flow rate on my flow meter if the pump cant handle the restriction of the mobo full cover..if it comes to worse ill just buy me a res and a mcp655 pump..really need something to cool that nb/sb of the asus extreme..and if the paste cures in ill try and put it too 4.5gzz and see how it runs..


to let you know i'm running a mobo full block and an extra 120mm rad. and i'm have no issues.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12532734*
> to let you know i'm running a mobo full block and an extra 120mm rad. and i'm have no issues.


There u go..ill try it out..next weekend will be the build day for me..this will be fun!!!!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12532695*
> Your system vents the radiator downwards under the case, correct?


I got same setup with morbien..i got the silverstone rv01..got the 90 degrees setup...all those cases get there air in the bottom and push it upwards..


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12533137*
> I got same setup with morbien..i got the silverstone rv01..got the 90 degrees setup...all those cases get there air in the bottom and push it upwards..


OK, at first look, I thought the fans blades looked like they were blowing down, but know I see they're not.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quite a pain setting the WC up >.> too cramped... But hey, I will be getting a TJ11 next month! woohoo


----------



## Klaufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12525571*
> hey do u have a build log of that build


I just finished, i'll link the build thread when i make one


----------



## Jobotoo

I am thinking of getting the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 (what a great price). I will most likely order it this weekend. The "dilemma" is that although I have joined this forums, and others, anywhere from months ago to years ago, and I have been studying and learning much about watercooling, I am not 100% sure on what exactly I do and do not need. I have been building computers for over 15 years, but this will be my first time doing watercooling.

So any opinions and guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Here is what I want to do:
Get the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 to cool my CPU and GPU. I will be getting a Sandy Bridge motherboard (probably the Maximus IV Extreme), a 2600K, 8 GB GSkill Ripjaws X 1600 1.5V, GPU - EVGA GTX 465 with a Koolance VID-NX470 NVIDIA (I have confirmed that my 465 uses the 470 reference board). Main reason to watercool the GPU for me right now is noise. Before cleaning it last night it would get hot easily and I had to ramp up the fans, which got noisy. It is better now after I cleaned the GPU and heatsink, but it still get's noisy. No SLI at the moment, but most likely I will add one more video card by the end of the year.

Link to GPU waterblock: CLICKY

My GPU without heatsink, after I cleaned it last night: (running much better now, btw):









I might eventually get waterblocks for the motherboard, but that is a big "maybe" and would be later down the road.

What I would like to know is if the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 will be sufficient for a dual-loop, or should I just go from CPU to GPU in one loop? I will be overclocking the CPU and GPU, so there will be some added heat. No MAJOR overclocks though.

I would like to go 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Compression Fittings, but slightly unsure if this is what I want/need or if someone has any advice on tubing and fitting size.

I am most likely ordering from Frozen CPU, and choosing the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 is easy, but knowing what else I need is a little confusing to me. Do I want normal compression fittings or 45 degree or 90 degree ones, reducers, splitters, shrouds, Tygon Norprene, Tygon Antibacterial . . .

Another question is regarding my Case. I have a Cooler Master HAF 932. I'm guessing I can get it all in my case but I was thinking that I could put the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 in another case I have and run the tubing from it to the case with components and connect them with quick disconnects. But someone here may have experience with this and can shed some positive and/or negatives of going this route.

I don't mean for others to figure it out for me, so I will follow-up another post with what I think I need. Then you could possibly guide me with yays or nays.


----------



## MorbEIn

A question, I moved my system to do some cable management, of couse the res will get shaken a bit, I opened the res to drop some PT nuke in, after all this, When i turned my system on, it started making this rattling noise, any idea why? Did it happened when i opened the res? or because of the shaking? didnt had this rattling noise before since leak testing...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12534972*
> I am thinking of getting the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 (what a great price). I will most likely order it this weekend. The "dilemma" is that although I have joined this forums, and others, anywhere from months ago to years ago, and I have been studying and learning much about watercooling, I am not 100% sure on what exactly I do and do not need. I have been building computers for over 15 years, but this will be my first time doing watercooling.
> 
> So any opinions and guidance would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Here is what I want to do:
> Get the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 to cool my CPU and GPU. I will be getting a Sandy Bridge motherboard (probably the Maximus IV Extreme), a 2600K, 8 GB GSkill Ripjaws X 1600 1.5V, GPU - EVGA GTX 465 with a Koolance VID-NX470 NVIDIA (I have confirmed that my 465 uses the 470 reference board). Main reason to watercool the GPU for me right now is noise. Before cleaning it last night it would get hot easily and I had to ramp up the fans, which got noisy. It is better now after I cleaned the GPU and heatsink, but it still get's noisy. No SLI at the moment, but most likely I will add one more video card by the end of the year.
> 
> Link to GPU waterblock: CLICKY
> 
> My GPU without heatsink, after I cleaned it last night: (running much better now, btw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might eventually get waterblocks for the motherboard, but that is a big "maybe" and would be later down the road.
> 
> What I would like to know is if the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 will be sufficient for a dual-loop, or should I just go from CPU to GPU in one loop? I will be overclocking the CPU and GPU, so there will be some added heat. No MAJOR overclocks though.
> 
> I would like to go 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Compression Fittings, but slightly unsure if this is what I want/need or if someone has any advice on tubing and fitting size.
> 
> I am most likely ordering from Frozen CPU, and choosing the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 is easy, but knowing what else I need is a little confusing to me. Do I want normal compression fittings or 45 degree or 90 degree ones, reducers, splitters, shrouds, Tygon Norprene, Tygon Antibacterial . . .
> 
> Another question is regarding my Case. I have a Cooler Master HAF 932. I'm guessing I can get it all in my case but I was thinking that I could put the XSPC Rasa 750 Rs360 in another case I have and run the tubing from it to the case with components and connect them with quick disconnects. But someone here may have experience with this and can shed some positive and/or negatives of going this route.
> 
> I don't mean for others to figure it out for me, so I will follow-up another post with what I think I need. Then you could possibly guide me with yays or nays.


If you have the HAF 932 case, go with the RX, not RS system. Also, why are you trying to use 3/8" hose? If you did, you need to change out all the fitting barbs. The kit comes with 1/2" barbs and uses 7/16" ID hose, so it already using undersized hose as it is now. I would prefer Bitspower 1/2" barbs and PrimoChill 1/2" hose. If you try to fit the stock hose onver the Bitspower 1/2" barbs, it will be super tight. I found the Bitspower 1/2" barbs are slightly larger ID and OD than the XSPC ones. Not sure on the compression fittings, but if you do use them, makes sure your use the same ID hose for it.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12535428*
> A question, I moved my system to do some cable management, of couse the res will get shaken a bit, I opened the res to drop some PT nuke in, after all this, When i turned my system on, it started making this rattling noise, any idea why? Did it happened when i opened the res? or because of the shaking? didnt had this rattling noise before since leak testing...


It's most likely your pump. Sometimes if they shift, they can get noisy if something is touching it or the impeller gets something in it. You can try tilting the reservoir to see if it goes away.


----------



## JMCB

My water is sadly a tint of green. Been running it since December. I have a killcoil in there. Hmmm...Going to dump it, clean it, and go for it again. What's the best way to clean the blocks, radiator, etc?

I'm probably just going to redo the setup with all new tubing. Would 3/4" OD / 1/2'' ID tubing work with these barbs that come with the XSPC kit, well? Also, my setup was a tight fit and my tank is stuck. What is the best way to drain this bad boy? I don't really want to risk pulling a tube and dumping water everywhere. Ideas?

Thanks!


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMCB;12537605*
> My water is sadly a tint of green. Been running it since December. I have a killcoil in there. Hmmm...Going to dump it, clean it, and go for it again. What's the best way to clean the blocks, radiator, etc?
> 
> I'm probably just going to redo the setup with all new tubing. Would 3/4" OD / 1/2'' ID tubing work with these barbs that come with the XSPC kit, well? Also, my setup was a tight fit and my tank is stuck. What is the best way to drain this bad boy? I don't really want to risk pulling a tube and dumping water everywhere. Ideas?
> 
> Thanks!


what kind of liquid you are running with? distilled water?


----------



## JMCB

Yeah Distilled + Killcoil.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12537570*
> If you have the HAF 932 case, go with the RX, not RS system. Also, why are you trying to use 3/8" hose? If you did, you need to change out all the fitting barbs. The kit comes with 1/2" barbs and uses 7/16" ID hose, so it already using undersized hose as it is now. I would prefer Bitspower 1/2" barbs and PrimoChill 1/2" hose. If you try to fit the stock hose onver the Bitspower 1/2" barbs, it will be super tight. I found the Bitspower 1/2" barbs are slightly larger ID and OD than the XSPC ones. Not sure on the compression fittings, but if you do use them, makes sure your use the same ID hose for it.


Yes, definitely going with the RX series, thank you! Why the 3/8" . . . well, because I am probably not understanding how it works yet. I thought the barb size would be smaller than the tubing.

Are these the Bitspower Barbs you are talking about? LINK

Would this Primochill tubing work? LINK

Would these clamps work well with the above two? LINK

*Here is a bit more on what I'm thinking:*

I think I was confused on prior post regarding tubing and fittings. I'm going to keep it simple and use the fittings that come with the kit. Not sure about Tubing yet.

I did not get that there was an RS and RX series, so I will most likely buy from Jab-Tech as FrozenCPU does not have the RX series.

What I want to get:

*XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit*
-Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock
-Socket 775, 1366 and 1154 Backplates (will be for 1155)
-Socket AM2 and AM3 mounting kit
-X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir
-5mm Blue LED with 4Pin Molex (will most likely not use)
-RX360 or Radiator (It appears that I will not need an extra rad for GPU loop? This should be enough)
-80mm to 120mm Radiator brackets
-Low Noise 1700rpm 120mm Fan x3 (I would like to have push/pull so at least 6 fans - And QUIET is very important to me, so suggestions on fans is very appreciated)
-120mm Fan Grill x3
-2 Meters of Clear 7/16"ID Hose (will get better hosing, not sure what)
-G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6 (would like Compression Fittings, not sure which)
-Thermal Paste (will buy extra/better paste. Not sure which yet - probably Arctic CERAMIQUE 2.5g but not sure if this will have an issue with copper CPU block)

*Koolance VID-NX470 NVIDIA GTX 470 VGA Liquid Cooling Block (No Fittings)*
-Cooling block
t-hermal paste (will buy extra/better paste. Not sure which yet - probably Arctic CERAMIQUE 2.5g)
-mounting hardware
-Nozzle threading is standard G 1/4 BSP (would like Compression Fittings, not sure if feasible)
-manual


----------



## Citra

For GPU Blocks get Arctic Cooling MX-3 or IC Diamond. It offers great performance and is not conductive.

Get Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 for radiator fans.
These are the absolute best and quietest fans for radiators. They are dead silent.


----------



## mbudden

I will need to go through again and add everyone. >< Slackin'. But it's only less than 10 pages







not too bad.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12538432*
> Yes, definitely going with the RX series, thank you! Why the 3/8" . . . well, because I am probably not understanding how it works yet. I thought the barb size would be smaller than the tubing.
> 
> Are these the Bitspower Barbs you are talking about? LINK
> 
> Would this Primochill tubing work? LINK
> 
> Would these clamps work well with the above two? LINK
> 
> *Here is a bit more on what I'm thinking:*
> 
> I think I was confused on prior post regarding tubing and fittings. I'm going to keep it simple and use the fittings that come with the kit. Not sure about Tubing yet.
> 
> I did not get that there was an RS and RX series, so I will most likely buy from Jab-Tech as FrozenCPU does not have the RX series.
> 
> What I want to get:
> 
> *XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit*
> -Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock
> -Socket 775, 1366 and 1154 Backplates (will be for 1155)
> -Socket AM2 and AM3 mounting kit
> -X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir
> -5mm Blue LED with 4Pin Molex (will most likely not use)
> -RX360 or Radiator (It appears that I will not need an extra rad for GPU loop? This should be enough)
> -80mm to 120mm Radiator brackets
> -Low Noise 1700rpm 120mm Fan x3 (I would like to have push/pull so at least 6 fans - And QUIET is very important to me, so suggestions on fans is very appreciated)
> -120mm Fan Grill x3
> -2 Meters of Clear 7/16"ID Hose (will get better hosing, not sure what)
> -G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6 (would like Compression Fittings, not sure which)
> -Thermal Paste (will buy extra/better paste. Not sure which yet - probably Arctic CERAMIQUE 2.5g but not sure if this will have an issue with copper CPU block)
> 
> *Koolance VID-NX470 NVIDIA GTX 470 VGA Liquid Cooling Block (No Fittings)*
> -Cooling block
> t-hermal paste (will buy extra/better paste. Not sure which yet - probably Arctic CERAMIQUE 2.5g)
> -mounting hardware
> -Nozzle threading is standard G 1/4 BSP (would like Compression Fittings, not sure if feasible)
> -manual


The barbs you listed may be the same dimension as the ones I have. Mine are the chrome barbs (BP-WTP-C01), the hose you listed is fine, but the clamps need to be 3/4"OD type, not 1/2", that's way too small. If you use 7/16" hose on 1/2"barb, then a 5/8"OD clamp is needed. if you decide to use compression fittings, then 1/2" is needed with 1/2"ID hose. Don't use smaller 7/16" hose with compression fittings. As for push/pull fan config, that may be very tight, if not possible in a 932 case and a RX radiator. In a HAF X, yes, since the pull fans can mount on top of the case, under the top plastic moldings for the stock 200mm fans. I would say push fans are fine. I have changed my stock fans for Koolance 120mm blue LED 2.2K RPM fans. They are not noisy or have any annoying fan noises, even at full speed. I use the Sunbeam 6 channel 5.25" bay fan controller and have the fans driven via PWM signal from the mobo CPU fan header, so the fans usually run at 1450 RPM, but under load, ramp up to full speed as the CPU temps go up. As for thermal paste, the Cermique seems to work better for me and I've been using it for years with no problem.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12537594*
> It's most likely your pump. Sometimes if they shift, they can get noisy if something is touching it or the impeller gets something in it. You can try tilting the reservoir to see if it goes away.


ahh cool cool, quite a hassle doing that if you have a heavy case..


----------



## nden

Can someone show me photos of 2 rads running on your system?


----------



## bennieboi6969

http://www.overclock.net/11667827-post309.html
http://www.overclock.net/11951952-post1929.html


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12538432*
> Yes, definitely going with the RX series, thank you! Why the 3/8" . . . well, because I am probably not understanding how it works yet. I thought the barb size would be smaller than the tubing.


I think your confusion spreads around quite a bit. It's important to get your understanding completely straight before ordering to save yourself time and hassle while your computer is in pieces, so you have everything you need.

I highly recommend watching some videos by DazMode on Youtube, particularly on fittings and tube. It may seem trivial but it's vitally important to understand how these pieces go together, else a series of poor decisions will lead to leaks! Leaks almost always happen at the fittings when done incorrectly!

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htJKdFyo_PA[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWYiY9SS-Og[/ame]

I found this one also very helpful:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxHpaV8i_Xs[/ame]

Now, with barbs in particular, the new philosophy "to use tube so tight that you can't get it off without cutting" has actually made its way into this kit. You accomplish this by using a tube with a smaller internal diameter than the outside diameter of the fitting itself. In this case, 7/16" internal diameter tube, stretched over a 1/2" barb.

BTW, I use an externally mounted RS360 with a 2600K overclocked and an EK Nickel/Acrylic GPU block and my temps are pretty amazing (19C ambient, 45-62C at load, 4.8ghz @ 1.425v). I do plan to upgrade my radiator at some point (out of boredom and curiosity really), but don't expect a dramatic shift in temps.

For low noise fans, you can't beat Scythe Gentle Typhoons. If noise > performance, you'll probably want the GT-AP13 or AP14. If you have a fan controller, get the AP15. I think the AP15 is quiet at full speed, but I also sit about 5 feet from my computer. A very small handful of people disagree.

If you absolutely want compression fittings (and you'll need at least 8), you're best off getting 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD, and then buying the exact same size hose by Primochill or Tygon. If you stick with 1/2" barbs (like the kit barbs), then you buy 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD hose. Hose is cheap, so don't structure your fittings based strictly on hose unless you're working in a tight environment (HAF 932? yeah definitely not).

Consider rotary angled adapters, but before doing so, envision your loop and how the tube plans to run.

If you want to read more, check my observations post which deals more with the actual setup and installation.


----------



## nicksasa

1/2 ID tubing should work fine with the fittings that came with the kit if you use clamps no ?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12545806*
> 1/2 ID tubing should work fine with the fittings that came with the kit if you use clamps no ?


Yes. Fittings are 1/2" OD. Use 7/16" ID tubing if you do not want to use clamps.


----------



## jamborhgini313

I just got a new 1200w psu and my pump's noise seems to be gone and its pumping alot more water than it used to and my temps dropped dramatically. Is it because its connected through the 12v?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12547636*
> I just got a new 1200w psu and my pump's noise seems to be gone and its pumping alot more water than it used to and my temps dropped dramatically. Is it because its connected through the 12v?


Sounds like your old psu was almost dead


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12547807*
> Sounds like your old psu was almost dead


lol i abused the hell outta that 750w


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;12547872*
> lol i abused the hell outta that 750w


Well it sounds like your lucky it didn't take out something in your pc if it couldn't run a pump


----------



## jamborhgini313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12548008*
> Well it sounds like your lucky it didn't take out something in your pc if it couldn't run a pump


it still works but i was pushing it way to hard maybe thats why


----------



## JMCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12545853*
> Yes. Fittings are 1/2" OD. Use 7/16" ID tubing if you do not want to use clamps.


What about 3/4" OD with 1/2' ID? Would that hose fit the barbs if I used clamps?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMCB;12548327*
> What about 3/4" OD with 1/2' ID? Would that hose fit the barbs if I used clamps?


It would fit. If you are using the barbs sent with the kit, these are 1/2" OD so any tube with an ID of 1/2" will fit. You would have to make sure that any clamps would fit the 3/4" OD of the tubing you propose.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12541674*
> Can someone show me photos of 2 rads running on your system?












RX360 on top, RX240 at the bottom


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12551632*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RX360 on top, RX240 at the bottom


VERY Smexy


----------



## deathshad

My RS240 runs well but im starting to notice a rattle in the pump :O. need to run a drain line to.










Add ME!!


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deathshad*


My RS240 runs well but im starting to notice a rattle in the pump :O. need to run a drain line to.










Add ME!!










Looks good









I just took a good look at my loop and all the tubing is turning brown







Looks like ill be ordering some primoflex pro uv blue tubing soon. I think ill add in a RX120 when I do so I can be ready for watercooling a video card


----------



## mbudden

Guys, I went through and added the people since the last update. But if for some reason, you don't find yourself there in the list. Let me know and I'll get you added ASAP.

Oh & @liquoredonlife, I added that post of the YT videos and everything on the FAQ page. I gave it a look last night, VERY informative. I appreciate it


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Guys, I went through and added the people since the last update. But if for some reason, you don't find yourself there in the list. Let me know and I'll get you added ASAP.

Oh & @liquoredonlife, I added that post of the YT videos and everything on the FAQ page. I gave it a look last night, VERY informative. I appreciate it










I've had pics in this thread of my system... but its not a big deal... you still have me as pending...









http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/50stable.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSC00663.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSC00653.jpg

horrible pics I know

I'll be posting some more pics of it tomarrow (when I get the second optical drive)... I added 3 cold cathodes... 4 skythe slipstream 110 cfm fans and 2 scythe fan controllers. I also swapped to red tube... cleaned the block and saw a bit of algae (with a kill coil???)... I lost 2 degrees off my load but I replaced a tube and gained them back again. dunno... (coulda just been ambient)

I already had push pull so I didn't expect a huge increase. Next I plan on ordering 2 more sythe fans and getting a 240 RX though that may be overkill... I plan on running both but the 240 RS will have the 2 scythe fans plus the two stockers... And the three other coolermaster fans will be plugged into the mobo... lotta fans...


----------



## Gothic-Yoshi

Just thought id jump on the water cooling band-wagon







, so i got myself the rx240 kit for my sig rig and got sum awesome temps







. Pics for everyone!!!


----------



## Garanthor

I used to be an avid H50 owner and an early member of the H50/H70 owners club. I still own an H50 in fact (it's just sitting under the stairs in storage now). After much research someone mentioned this kit in the forum and I took the full watercooling plunge with my RASA 750 RX360. I was so impressed that I thought I'd share my experience with my former club members. I thought they'd all want to know about this given how little the kit costs, it's huge performance difference and how easy it is to install. Well I was a little shocked at the response. Basically they didn't want to hear about it and asked me to leave them alone.







Now if someone came up to me and told me how I could get something much bettrer for my money I'd be at least grateful to them. I certainly wouldn't tell them to get lost. Very odd don't you think?







Anyway, I wash my hands of that club and wish them all the best with their H50/H70s.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I used to be an avid H50 owner and an early member of the H50/H70 owners club. I still own an H50 in fact (it's just sitting under the stairs in storage now). After much research someone mentioned this kit in the forum and I took the full watercooling plunge with my RASA 750 RX360. I was so impressed that I thought I'd share my experience with my former club members. I thought they'd all want to know about this given how little the kit costs, it's huge performance difference and how easy it is to install. Well I was a little shocked at the response. Basically they didn't want to hear about it and asked me to leave them alone.







Now if someone came up to me and told me how I could get something much bettrer for my money I'd be at least grateful to them. I certainly wouldn't tell them to get lost. Very odd don't you think?







Anyway, I wash my hands of that club and wish them all the best with their H50/H70s.










A LOT of people stick with the H50 or H70 because its a close looped kit. I mean I get scared just thinking my 750 is running right now and im not at home... it could happen (leak)... where as its almost never going to happen to a H Cooler.

But I took the risk... Honestly its worth it... I have a upgradable kit... sure mods can be done to H models but its never going to be like a custom kit. I can swap out the pump pretty easy with this kit and the res and the rad and the tube... so much posibilities


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX;12556091*
> A LOT of people stick with the H50 or H70 because its a close looped kit. I mean I get scared just thinking my 750 is running right now and im not at home... it could happen (leak)... where as its almost never going to happen to a H Cooler.
> 
> But I took the risk... Honestly its worth it... I have a upgradable kit... sure mods can be done to H models but its never going to be like a custom kit. I can swap out the pump pretty easy with this kit and the res and the rad and the tube... so much posibilities


I am glad you say this because that's sort of how I feel. It gives (me at least) a sense of creativity.

_"What can I do next to make this work even better? Pump? Additional blocks?"_

With the closed loop, and even the air coolers, you are "basically" limited to swapping fans and TIM and that's it. I know that some ppl have done some mods but I feel that it's a bit more complicated when you deal with a closed loop like the Corsair H-series and you are much more limited in what you can do IMO.Don't get me wrong. I started out with a decent enough air cooler (keep it around just in case). I did the H50 thing for about a month before I jumped into the XSPC kit. I am enjoying the hunt for new and better components now.


----------



## nicksasa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12552902*
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just took a good look at my loop and all the tubing is turning brown
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like ill be ordering some primoflex pro uv blue tubing soon. I think ill add in a RX120 when I do so I can be ready for watercooling a video card


My tubing is turning flashy green. I like it actually ... lol








And yes, i have a silver kill coil and the water isn't green it's the tubing.


----------



## nden

Guys, does the Res/Pump fit in 5.25" bay in Corsair 800D case? I noticed there is "L" bracket in the bay.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12558589*
> My tubing is turning flashy green. I like it actually ... lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, i have a silver kill coil and the water isn't green it's the tubing.


Was it "distilled" water?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12558993*
> Guys, does the Res/Pump fit in 5.25" bay in Corsair 800D case? I noticed there is "L" bracket in the bay.


My case has little L brackets in the 5.25" slots, and the res/pump fits in just fine


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12559241*
> My case has little L brackets in the 5.25" slots, and the res/pump fits in just fine


Great. Thanks. I don't need to mod the case eventually.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra;12538590*
> For GPU Blocks get Arctic Cooling MX-3 or IC Diamond. It offers great performance and is not conductive.
> 
> Get Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 for radiator fans.
> These are the absolute best and quietest fans for radiators. They are dead silent.


Ok, added Arctic Cooling MX-3 to my order.









I've been trying to get some of the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans at the $15-$16 range, but so far the 10 or so places that offer them at that price are out of stock. I will keep looking and get them once they are in stock.

Thanks for the recommendations.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12538944*
> The barbs you listed may be the same dimension as the ones I have. Mine are the chrome barbs (BP-WTP-C01), the hose you listed is fine, but the clamps need to be 3/4"OD type, not 1/2", that's way too small. If you use 7/16" hose on 1/2"barb, then a 5/8"OD clamp is needed. if you decide to use compression fittings, then 1/2" is needed with 1/2"ID hose. Don't use smaller 7/16" hose with compression fittings. As for push/pull fan config, that may be very tight, if not possible in a 932 case and a RX radiator. In a HAF X, yes, since the pull fans can mount on top of the case, under the top plastic moldings for the stock 200mm fans. I would say push fans are fine. I have changed my stock fans for Koolance 120mm blue LED 2.2K RPM fans. They are not noisy or have any annoying fan noises, even at full speed. I use the Sunbeam 6 channel 5.25" bay fan controller and have the fans driven via PWM signal from the mobo CPU fan header, so the fans usually run at 1450 RPM, but under load, ramp up to full speed as the CPU temps go up. As for thermal paste, the Cermique seems to work better for me and I've been using it for years with no problem.


Thanks ezveedub for the help. I think I am getting the sizes now. What I have decided to do is get the RX360 kit for now and use what comes with it. In a month or two when I can get my hands on a new motherboard and cpu I plan to go with the Primochill tubing and the bitspower compression fittings. Or if I feel comfortable with barbs, I may just do that and save a little.

I am drawing up a few ideas to see if I want the RAD inside or outside of the case. If it is too tight I will do it on the outside.

I will look at the "Sunbeam 6 channel 5.25" bay fan controller," as I will want something to control the fans.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


Thanks ezveedub for the help. I think I am getting the sizes now. What I have decided to do is get the RX360 kit for now and use what comes with it. In a month or two when I can get my hands on a new motherboard and cpu I plan to go with the Primochill tubing and the bitspower compression fittings. Or if I feel comfortable with barbs, I may just do that and save a little.

I am drawing up a few ideas to see if I want the RAD inside or outside of the case. If it is too tight I will do it on the outside.

I will look at the "Sunbeam 6 channel 5.25" bay fan controller," as I will want something to control the fans.


The controller I use is a Sunbeam PL-RS-6 unit. It doesn't have RPM readings, just manual or PWM speed control via CPU header port. RPM signal can be fed back to the mobo is you want to read the fans though, which what I do.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30058


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


I think your confusion spreads around quite a bit. It's important to get your understanding completely straight before ordering to save yourself time and hassle while your computer is in pieces, so you have everything you need.

I highly recommend watching some videos by DazMode on Youtube, particularly on fittings and tube. It may seem trivial but it's vitally important to understand how these pieces go together, else a series of poor decisions will lead to leaks! Leaks almost always happen at the fittings when done incorrectly!

*{snipped the videos}*

Now, with barbs in particular, the new philosophy "to use tube so tight that you can't get it off without cutting" has actually made its way into this kit. You accomplish this by using a tube with a smaller internal diameter than the outside diameter of the fitting itself. In this case, 7/16" internal diameter tube, stretched over a 1/2" barb.


Thanks for the info and vids. I watched them a few times and am getting a better understanding.

Quote:



BTW, I use an externally mounted RS360 with a 2600K overclocked and an EK Nickel/Acrylic GPU block and my temps are pretty amazing (19C ambient, 45-62C at load, 4.8ghz @ 1.425v). I do plan to upgrade my radiator at some point (out of boredom and curiosity really), but don't expect a dramatic shift in temps.


That is great to hear as my stup should be quite similar. I also decided to go with the EK GPU block (copper/acetol)

Quote:



For low noise fans, you can't beat Scythe Gentle Typhoons. If noise > performance, you'll probably want the GT-AP13 or AP14. If you have a fan controller, get the AP15. I think the AP15 is quiet at full speed, but I also sit about 5 feet from my computer. A very small handful of people disagree.


I'm pretty convinced about the AP-15, I just have to find them in-stock at this point. I do plan on using a controller. Not sure which yet, but will look into Sunbeam, and any others that people may recommend.

Quote:



If you absolutely want compression fittings (and you'll need at least 8), you're best off getting 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD, and then buying the exact same size hose by Primochill or Tygon. If you stick with 1/2" barbs (like the kit barbs), then you buy 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD hose. Hose is cheap, so don't structure your fittings based strictly on hose unless you're working in a tight environment (HAF 932? yeah definitely not).

Consider rotary angled adapters, but before doing so, envision your loop and how the tube plans to run.


I absolutely do want compression fittings, but have decided that that will be my next project. I plan to use what comes with the kit for now, except maybe the tubing. Compression fittings will be on hold for now.

Quote:



If you want to read more, check my observations post which deals more with the actual setup and installation.


Thanks, there is some great stuff in there. I guess I should not use the tuing that comes with the kit, so I will get some Primochill 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD hose to use with the barbs that come with the kit. I'm guessing I will not "need" the clamps in this case.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


The controller I use is a Sunbeam PL-RS-6 unit. It doesn't have RPM readings, just manual or PWM speed control via CPU header port. RPM signal can be fed back to the mobo is you want to read the fans though, which what I do.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30058



That controller looks great, and good price too! Thanks again!

Would it be preferred for me to start a separate thread on my build so as not to clutter up this one dedicated specifically to XSPC? I think I just answered my own question.

Oh, I ordered the XSPC RASA RX360 kit.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12560563*
> Thanks for the info and vids. I watched them a few times and am getting a better understanding.
> 
> That is great to hear as my stup should be quite similar. I also decided to go with the EK GPU block (copper/acetol)
> 
> I'm pretty convinced about the AP-15, I just have to find them in-stock at this point. I do plan on using a controller. Not sure which yet, but will look into Sunbeam, and any others that people may recommend.
> 
> I absolutely do want compression fittings, but have decided that that will be my next project. I plan to use what comes with the kit for now, except maybe the tubing. Compression fittings will be on hold for now.
> 
> Thanks, there is some great stuff in there. I guess I should not use the tuing that comes with the kit, so I will get some Primochill 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD hose to use with the barbs that come with the kit. I'm guessing I will not "need" the clamps in this case.


No, you really don't need the clamps. One thing you might want to add though is a T-block, drain port and 3 extra barbs. That way you can install a drain into your loop for easier maintenance.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


No, you really don't need the clamps. One thing you might want to add though is a T-block, drain port and 3 extra barbs. That way you can install a drain into your loop for easier maintenance.


I was thinking about this, but not exactly sure where to put it. Am I correct in thinking it should got towards the bottom? So that when I drain, I get it all out.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


I was thinking about this, but not exactly sure where to put it. Am I correct in thinking it should got towards the bottom? So that when I drain, I get it all out.


You generally install the T block in the lowest line running in your loop. You can use some extra tubing to create a low slung curve for the T fitting to install in. If you mount your rad above the reservoir and CPU block, you'll want to use one of the tubes from the reservoir to CPU block.


----------



## solar0987

so i was researching what fans are best to put on the rs 240 rad 
and I couldn't find anything 
but i did find out that the inside of our rads are brass is that bad?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


so i was researching what fans are best to put on the rs 240 rad 
and I couldn't find anything 
but i did find out that the inside of our rads are brass is that bad?


Gentle Typhoons AP-15's should do nicely.


----------



## mbudden

Yate Loon's are pretty good and low cost.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


I was thinking about this, but not exactly sure where to put it. Am I correct in thinking it should got towards the bottom? So that when I drain, I get it all out.


You can technically use the opposite side of a GPU block as a point for draining as I've done here:










In most normal setups, you would block off two of the four open ports on a GPU block. I am using one of the bottom sides connected to a 45 degree rotary angle adapter, into a male-male rotary adapter, into a ball-valve, and then a G1/4" stop plug.

I just swivel the whole thing toward the outside, unscrew the stop plug, attach a barb to the valve, connect a hose to the barb (and feed it to a collection container), open the reservoir fillport (to allow air in) and open the ball valve and watch about 750mL of water drain out. It's awesome. A little overkill, but I like it and works quite well. The last bit of water in the res and radiator require a some case tilting but it gets almost all of the water out of the system quickly.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


If you have no plans to ever go SLI, you can technically use the opposite side of a GPU block as a point for draining as I've done here:










In most normal setups, you would block off two of the four open ports on a GPU block. I am using one of the bottom sides connected to a 45 degree rotary angle adapter, into a male-male rotary adapter, into a ball-valve, and then a G1/4" stop plug.

I just swivel the whole thing toward the outside, unscrew the stop plug, attach a barb to the valve, connect a hose to the barb (and feed it to a collection container), open the reservoir fillport (to allow air in) and open the ball valve and watch about 750mL of water drain out. It's awesome. A little overkill, but I like it and works quite well. The last bit of water in the res and radiator require a some case tilting but it gets almost all of the water out of the system quickly.


That is a really cool idea! Can I steal it?


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


so i was researching what fans are best to put 
but i did find out that the inside of our rads are brass is that bad?


thought brass was bad for a loop?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


thought brass was bad for a loop?


brass is good, most fittings are nickel plated brass.

avoid ALUMINUM!!!


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


brass is good, most fittings are nickel plated brass.

avoid ALUMINUM!!!


good to know

wher can i find some gentle typhhon 1850's?
i looked all over and find none :{
or a good set of fans for this radiator 
is there a certain rpm im looking for or just about anything will work?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


good to know

wher can i find some gentle typhhon 1850's?
i looked all over and find none :{
or a good set of fans for this radiator 
is there a certain rpm im looking for or just about anything will work?


GT are really hard to come by, just gotta be patient and be prepared to pay $15+ for each one.

Personally, I have had great success w/ Yate Loon medium 120mm fans. They are low rpm fans (mine spin from 1200-1400k) that work fabulous with the xspc rads


----------



## Annex

Ok, so I've been really wanting this kit, but I just wanna make sure I get everything right on my first run through.. So there's a lot of conflicting info about the amd backplate fitting with the screws or something and I just wanna make certain that I'm able to mount this properly and not put excess pressure on my motherboard..

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...pport-am3.html

In this thread I see info suggesting the stock backplate is compatible..

Next, is the tubing concern:

I see that Primoflex is highly recommended, so I just want to make sure if I should get tubing with the exact same diameter as the stock tubing?

I'm looking at this on frozencpu

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82...l_-_Clear.html

The last thing is biocides.. I see frozen cpu offering Dead-Water Copper Sulfate and the silver killcoil. Should I utilize both to be safe or will either one be fine?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;12565772*
> Ok, so I've been really wanting this kit, but I just wanna make sure I get everything right on my first run through.. So there's a lot of conflicting info about the amd backplate fitting with the screws or something and I just wanna make certain that I'm able to mount this properly and not put excess pressure on my motherboard..
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/939141-xspc-rasa-750-rs360-support-am3.html
> 
> In this thread I see info suggesting the stock backplate is compatible..
> 
> Next, is the tubing concern:
> 
> I see that Primoflex is highly recommended, so I just want to make sure if I should get tubing with the exact same diameter as the stock tubing?
> 
> I'm looking at this on frozencpu
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8275/ex-tub-432/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Clear.html
> 
> The last thing is biocides.. I see frozen cpu offering Dead-Water Copper Sulfate and the silver killcoil. Should I utilize both to be safe or will either one be fine?


- You can use the H50 backplate with the black (Intel) screws just fine. There is a backplate mod you can easily do as well and use the long "silver" screws that come with the kit. Some have reported that their present heat sink's backplate works with the black screws as well.

- That Primochill tubing is fine. 7/16" will fit over the 1/2" barbs and you won't need any clamps all though you can add them for aded safety.

- Silver kill coil and distilled water... nothing else really necessary. PTNuke if you want some "added" protection. Few drops into the distilled water and you are set. That's it.


----------



## pujo

here are some pics of my rig with the loop. this is the best i can do with cable management.


----------



## Annex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12566683*
> - You can use the H50 backplate with the black (Intel) screws just fine. There is a backplate mod you can easily do as well and use the long "silver" screws that come with the kit. Some have reported that their present heat sink's backplate works with the black screws as well.


I've never owned an h50 so I definitely don't have the backplate.. Other issue is I've never modded much of anything before and certainly don't have the tools required for it.. Is there a backplate you can purchase separately that would be compatible?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12566683*
> - That Primochill tubing is fine. 7/16" will fit over the 1/2" barbs and you won't need any clamps all though you can add them for aded safety.


I'm paranoid so I'll definitely use the barbs haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12566683*
> - Silver kill coil and distilled water... nothing else really necessary. PTNuke if you want some "added" protection. Few drops into the distilled water and you are set. That's it.


I'll just go with the silver kill coil then.. No use in spending extra money if it'll work fine


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12562722*
> If you have no plans to ever go SLI, you can technically use the opposite side of a GPU block as a point for draining as I've done here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In most normal setups, you would block off two of the four open ports on a GPU block. I am using one of the bottom sides connected to a 45 degree rotary angle adapter, into a male-male rotary adapter, into a ball-valve, and then a G1/4" stop plug.
> 
> I just swivel the whole thing toward the outside, unscrew the stop plug, attach a barb to the valve, connect a hose to the barb (and feed it to a collection container), open the reservoir fillport (to allow air in) and open the ball valve and watch about 750mL of water drain out. It's awesome. A little overkill, but I like it and works quite well. The last bit of water in the res and radiator require a some case tilting but it gets almost all of the water out of the system quickly.


That's a genius idea. Now I can justify water cooling the gpu due to this added benefit


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;12566995*
> Is there a backplate you can purchase separately that would be compatible?


No,I'm not using one.Works just fine without a back plate.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12567013*
> No,I'm not using one.Works just fine without a back plate.


Ok... what did you do? Just the screws and a washer through the mobo holes?

Come on... don't say it's that simple!!!!


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12567142*
> Ok... what did you do? Just the screws and a washer through the mobo holes?
> 
> Come on... don't say it's that simple!!!!


I explained a little further back in this thread,Some where.Let me see if I can find it.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pujo;12566967*
> here are some pics of my rig with the loop. this is the best i can do with cable management.


If you want a cleaner look you can run the tube going from the outlet port of your res behind the motherboard (it's fits fine, I have done that) and then in to your rad. I have 1/2 " ID Feser tubing and there is absolutely no pinching of any kind on it.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12567142*
> Ok... what did you do? Just the screws and a washer through the mobo holes?
> 
> Come on... don't say it's that simple!!!!


Here I found it:
it comes with 4 long screws with nuts and plastic washers,i have some small metal washers i used to,
screws go thru the back of mobo and this is how i did it:screw>metal washer>plastic washer>put thru mobo>plastic washer>metal washer>nut.
then the waterblock slids over the 4 screws,then i used another metal washer>plastic washer>spring>finger nut.
when tightening down waterblock turn all finger nuts equally.
__________________


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12567202*
> Here I found it:
> it comes with 4 long screws with nuts and plastic washers,i have some small metal washers i used to,
> screws go thru the back of mobo and this is how i did it:screw>metal washer>plastic washer>put thru mobo>plastic washer>metal washer>nut.
> then the waterblock slids over the 4 screws,then i used another metal washer>plastic washer>spring>finger nut.
> when tightening down waterblock turn all finger nuts equally.
> __________________


You enjoyed that, didn't you!?! (J/K)

Yeah... that's a definite way as well. May give it a try next build. I would say that as long as the pressure is maintained equally on all finger nuts, there should be no issues with pressure directly on the mobo holes and such.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Question guys...

I am getting new tubing for my loop. Gonna go with the Primoflex Red. Am thinking on changing the fittings to compression. Since I have never used compression I am wondering what size do I get them?

The ID of the tubing is 7/16" and the OD is 5/8". Present fitting I use are stock 1/2".


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12568278*
> Question guys...
> 
> I am getting new tubing for my loop. Gonna go with the Primoflex Red. Am thinking on changing the fittings to compression. Since I have never used compression I am wondering what size do I get them?
> 
> The ID of the tubing is 7/16" and the OD is 5/8". Present fitting I use are stock 1/2".


The barb of the compression fitting must match your ID and the ring portion must match the OD of the tubing.

So this is an example of what you need:
http://jab-tech.com/Bitspower-True-Silver-G1-4-Compression-Fitting-7-16-ID-5-8-BP-SLCPF-CC6-pr-4401.html


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12568608*
> The barb of the compression fitting must match your ID and the ring portion must match the OD of the tubing.
> 
> So this is an example of what you need:
> http://jab-tech.com/Bitspower-True-Silver-G1-4-Compression-Fitting-7-16-ID-5-8-BP-SLCPF-CC6-pr-4401.html


Thanks... That was what I was thinking about.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12568852*
> Thanks... That was what I was thinking about.


Go to the OP, go to the FAQ and click the link in the last question.
VERY useful information about compression fittings and the lot.
Worth a watch IMO.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12569056*
> Go to the OP, go to the FAQ and click the link in the last question.
> VERY useful information about compression fittings and the lot.
> Worth a watch IMO.


Gahhhhh.... Forgot ALL about the newly created FAQ!

Thanks man!!!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12569096*
> Gahhhhh.... Forgot ALL about the newly created FAQ!
> 
> Thanks man!!!










I learned some stuff myself by creating it. I'm sure people will benefit from it also. That last link I told you about has 3 videos. Some are long but VERY informative. So sit back and enjoy the new wealth of knowledge.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12569124*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned some stuff myself by creating it. I'm sure people will benefit from it also. That last link I told you about has 3 videos. Some are long but VERY informative. So sit back and enjoy the new wealth of knowledge.


Already watched the one on the tubing and fittings... answered ALL my questions... getting 2 straight fittings and two 45 degree fittings. I can do without the compression fittings... for now.









PEOPLE... Before you ask anything I suggest, no, HIGHLY RECOMMEND you visit the FAQ section of the OP. I bet you that 7 out of 10 times, you will find your answer there and have no need of posting it here and then having to wait!!! I could have saved myself about two hours and have placed my order already...









Work went into it to make your life easier...

I should have remembered it sooner!


----------



## GlockZoR IV

I so wanna get the rasa kit.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlockZoR IV;12569561*
> I so wanna get the rasa kit.


Do it and mbudden will give you free milk and cookies!!!


----------



## nicksasa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12559198*
> Was it "distilled" water?


Ofcourse it is.


----------



## Havoknova

3 more days and its saturday build time...

But not looking for a fancy cable sleeving upgrade..

Ill do my best to hide most of the cables though..

Excited!!!!!!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


Ofcourse it is.


Very odd that your tubing is turning "green". Brownish I can understand... has happened to everyone who used the XSPC supplied tubing. The problem with "green" is that it usually means some sort of live organism is at hand but with the silver kill coil(s) that should not be.

Is it getting worse (as in darker maybe)?


----------



## alawadhi3000

I've contacted XSPC with my problem with the RASA kit which is a slight noise coming from the pump/reservoir, including a video proof .

The guy at the customer service asked for my address which I provided.

I didn't expect to receive the brand new pump/reservoir in 3 days only!

Bottom line, XSPC support rocks !!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000;12570807*
> I've contacted XSPC with my problem with the RASA kit which is a slight noise coming from the pump/reservoir, including a video proof .
> 
> The guy at the customer service asked for my address which I provided.
> 
> I didn't expect to receive the brand new pump/reservoir in 3 days only!
> 
> Bottom line, XSPC support rocks !!


Very nice!!!

Great job..hopefully im noy goin to have same problem this saturday..


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


GT are really hard to come by, just gotta be patient and be prepared to pay $15+ for each one.

Personally, I have had great success w/ Yate Loon medium 120mm fans. They are low rpm fans (mine spin from 1200-1400k) that work fabulous with the xspc rads










15$ is ok as thats what i paid for my current led fans there thermaltake thunderblades from radioshack
the only problem i have with them is there soooooo loud and when i hook up the yellow rpm wire to my motherboard they dont lower in speed any no matter the setting i use in my bios
all the other fas ive tried do even the ones that came with the kit
i want quiet lol without loosing to much performace


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Do it and mbudden will give you free milk and cookies!!!


lol he tried that with me also

he so tried to kill me.....
hahahah


----------



## nicksasa

It's not really "green", it has a slightly green tint under blue UV.
And btw, on most motherboards the stock backplate works fine.

I will upload a pic, but I'm not sure if you can see it on the image.









Maybe it's just the reflection and me thinking it's green ...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicksasa*


It's not really "green", it has a slightly green tint under blue UV.
And btw, on most motherboards the stock backplate works fine.

I will upload a pic, but I'm not sure if you can see it on the image.

*(IMAGE DELETED)*

Maybe it's just the reflection and me thinking it's green ...


Ahhhh... then you need to take that cover off and look at it in daylight! Who knows, it may be turning brownish and look green under UV.

I look at it this way. When I used to work summers cleaning pools, if it was turning green, there was a problem.

The XSPC tubing will turn either "milky" in color and/or brownish. I even looked it up in google and could not find out why. If you look in the reservoir, it's all nice and clean though. This tells me that it must be some reaction on the inside of the tubing itself with a combination of water, maybe the silver ions of the kill coils and some heat maybe. Have heard it only happening on the clear plastic tubing and the cheap tubing at that.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Thanks... That was what I was thinking about.


Wait....why would you go 7/16? If you're getting compression fittings go with 1/2" ID tubing and 1/2" to 1/4" compression fittings like I did. Works great and looks great.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Thanks... That was what I was thinking about.


Wait....if you're going with compression fitting go with 1/2" ID tubing and 1/2" to 1/4 " compression fittings like I did. Looks and works great. Scrap the 7/16 idea.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Wait....if you're going with compression fitting go with 1/2" ID tubing and 1/2" to 1/4 " compression fittings like I did. Looks and works great. Scrap the 7/16 idea.


I am scratching the compression fitting for now... AND... with the tubing I can't be choosy. Donations are "as is".

Come summer I may be investing in a new case so at that time I may increase my loop to include a mobo block and maybe a GPU block or two as well. At that time I will most likely go a bit out of my way and "decorate" a bit more efficiently. Have my eyes on rotary adapters as well but those depend greatly on what I set up and how much room I have. I love my HAF 922 but I'd like a little more room inside. I may be going dual GPU's so I know there will be more tubing inside the rig. I like it to look "roomy"... not cramped... but that's just me and my choice of style. Once I reach the required 35 rep's I'll be placing a want ad for a case. That's when Project Kah kick's off.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


lol he tried that with me also

he so tried to kill me.....
hahahah


I did? Naaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh......


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I am scratching the compression fitting for now... AND... with the tubing I can't be choosy. Donations are "as is".

Come summer I may be investing in a new case so at that time I may increase my loop to include a mobo block and maybe a GPU block or two as well. At that time I will most likely go a bit out of my way and "decorate" a bit more efficiently. Have my eyes on rotary adapters as well but those depend greatly on what I set up and how much room I have. I love my HAF 922 but I'd like a little more room inside. I may be going dual GPU's so I know there will be more tubing inside the rig. I like it to look "roomy"... not cramped... but that's just me and my choice of style. Once I reach the required 35 rep's I'll be placing a want ad for a case. That's when Project Kah kick's off.


I totally hear you on that. I think you've seen the pic of my HAF 922. I like to keep it as clean as I can as well. That's part of the reason why the rad is outside the case and why the tube from the res to the rad runs behind the motherboard tray. Note the 45 degree angled compression adapters on the block. Works well with this case but they're not cheap. The tubing and all the compression fittings (6 total) cost me an extra $100.00


----------



## Humanage

Add Me.








Hey guys, my pump/res has been rattling ever since I got my XSPC RASA 750 240mm kit!
Why could this be? It's not filled all the way to the top, could that be it?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Humanage*


Add Me.








Hey guys, my pump/res has been rattling ever since I got my XSPC RASA 750 240mm kit!
Why could this be? It's not filled all the way to the top, could that be it?


Did you make sure you got all the bubbles out of the loop?


----------



## solar0987

mines green 2 it just the tubing as the res is crystal clear and mine isnt maybe a week old but im ok with it as my rad will be here today and my gpu block tommorow and i plan on switching it to the white tubing i have


----------



## mbudden

Mine's not green, but it's brown.


----------



## Humanage

I have white tubing, I don't think I have any bubbles, I've turned my case in a few directions, and I've been running for a month now.


----------



## nden

Before we guys install the rad, do we need to flush out the rad with tap water? any suggestion doing so?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Mine's not green, but it's brown.


+1
My tubing is turning brown too.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nden*


Before we guys install the rad, do we need to flush out the rad with tap water? any suggestion doing so?


Hot water... helps dissolve any grease (if any). Watch hands. Wear gloves if possible. Shake, don't stir. Do this a few times. NO SOAPS or anything like that.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I totally hear you on that. I think you've seen the pic of my HAF 922. I like to keep it as clean as I can as well. That's part of the reason why the rad is outside the case and why the tube from the res to the rad runs behind the motherboard tray. Note the 45 degree angled compression adapters on the block. Works well with this case but they're not cheap. The tubing and all the compression fittings (6 total) cost me an extra $100.00










I think that's (your pix) were I got the idea to use the 45 degree fittings on the CPU block. I have the rad externally mounted on the back and the tubing leaves the RAD with a slight angle, into the tube hole and on to the CPU block. I bet the 45 helps a bit.

$100... ouch BUT like I saw in the Dazmode video in the FAQ. You buy them ONCE and use them forever.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


15$ is ok as thats what i paid for my current led fans there thermaltake thunderblades from radioshack
the only problem i have with them is there soooooo loud and when i hook up the yellow rpm wire to my motherboard they dont lower in speed any no matter the setting i use in my bios
all the other fas ive tried do even the ones that came with the kit
i want quiet lol without loosing to much performace










The yellow wire is only for RPM signal. If you want to control the fan speed, you have to plug the other two wires (black/yellow or red) to the mobo fan ports or a fan controller. Thats where you control the fans voltage for RPM. Just make sure the mobo fan port can handle the fans amp draw or you'll blow the mobo fan ports circuit.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*









The yellow wire is only for RPM signal. If you want to control the fan speed, you have to plug the other two wires (black/yellow or red) to the mobo fan ports or a fan controller. Thats where you control the fans voltage for RPM. Just make sure the mobo fan port can handle the fans amp draw or you'll blow the mobo fan ports circuit.


Don't those Thermaltake fans also come with their own controller built in? If so, that controller wire may go from the fan to the controller knob and not reach the fan head on the mobo... but I cant be sure though. If that were the case, then you may not have fan control over them.

Could be wrong though. Rough day today at the office.Gonna go growl at the cat now.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Don't those Thermaltake fans also come with their own controller built in? If so, that controller wire may go from the fan to the controller knob and not reach the fan head on the mobo... but I cant be sure though. If that were the case, then you may not have fan control over them.

Could be wrong though. Rough day today at the office.Gonna go growl at the cat now.


No clue, but the ones I had have a separate two pin cable where you attach a thermo sensor or a mini rheostat to adjust fan speed. Without anything hooked up, then run at full speed. I had 2800 RPM fans, way too loud for me. Other issue was turn on speed was not so great and the RPM was not linear. They got to a point of descent noise then quickly ramped up on speed at a certain point of voltage.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


No clue, but the ones I had have a separate two pin cable where you attach a thermo sensor or a mini rheostat to adjust fan speed. Without anything hooked up, then run at full speed. I had 2800 RPM fans, way too loud for me.


I think I learned the hard way... I cut the controller off of one once and went straight to the fan header... 100% duty from then on. Thing sounded like a 747.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I think I learned the hard way... I cut the controller off of one once and went straight to the fan header... 100% duty from then on. Thing sounded like a 747.


Mine was like a blow dryer. Just hang over the top of the case and let the air blow though your hair, LOL


----------



## drka0tic

Hey guys, Im about to start leak testing. I can't find in this thread if it is recommended to open up and clean the CPU water block. If it is recommended, what is the preferred method?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drka0tic*


Hey guys, Im about to start leak testing. I can't find in this thread if it is recommended to open up and clean the CPU water block. If it is recommended, what is the preferred method?


Do like you do with the CPU block/Rad, run hot water through it then rinse it out with distilled water.


----------



## drka0tic

OK. I guess I can do that. Thanks.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I think that's (your pix) were I got the idea to use the 45 degree fittings on the CPU block. I have the rad externally mounted on the back and the tubing leaves the RAD with a slight angle, into the tube hole and on to the CPU block. I bet the 45 helps a bit.

$100... ouch BUT like I saw in the Dazmode video in the FAQ. You buy them ONCE and use them forever.


Here you go...I also included a before picture when I had the modified H50 just for fun.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Here you go...I also included a before picture when I had the modified H50 just for fun.










Opps let's try that again... I also included a before picture with my "wind tunnel" modified H50 just for fun


----------



## RonB94GT

Looking ate the FAQ it looks like all the pumps are the same except the XSPC Rasa 750 RS120 Kit? I'm looking to get the RS240 and was wondering if the pump was enough if I ever want to add a GPU black and another rad?


----------



## drka0tic

WOOHOO! :wheee:Finally got my 1st WC loop set up. It sucked up about a quart of distilled water. The pump has been running for about 45 mins and thus far no sign of leaks








Initially the pump was dead silent; I had to put my ear up to it to hear that it was running. Slowly it starting emitting more noise. Currently its running with a low hum similar to a fish tank. I will let it run overnight and keep shaking tower to get rid of bubbles.
I have a question on the amount to keep in the reservoir. The pic below shows the initial amount, currently I added some more and topped it off. Is there a level of where it should be?

Building this loop has been a great experience. I want to thank all the knowledgeable folks in this thread for all the great advice.

Now to the next stage which is currently kicking my arse; this the damn cable management in my Cosmos







.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;12576524*
> Looking ate the FAQ it looks like all the pumps are the same except the XSPC Rasa 750 RS120 Kit? I'm looking to get the RS240 and was wondering if the pump was enough if I ever want to add a GPU black and another rad?


I believe the pump in the RS120 is actually smaller than the one found in the RS240/360 kits. But yes, rads aren't restrictive. So you'd have no problems.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12577041*
> WOOHOO! :wheee:Finally got my 1st WC loop set up. It sucked up about a quart of distilled water. The pump has been running for about 45 mins and thus far no sign of leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Initially the pump was dead silent; I had to put my ear up to it to hear that it was running. Slowly it starting emitting more noise. Currently its running with a low hum similar to a fish tank. I will let it run overnight and keep shaking tower to get rid of bubbles.
> I have a question on the amount to keep in the reservoir. The pic below shows the initial amount, currently I added some more and topped it off. Is there a level of where it should be?
> 
> Building this loop has been a great experience. I want to thank all the knowledgeable folks in this thread for all the great advice.
> 
> Now to the next stage which is currently kicking my arse; this the damn cable management in my Cosmos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Level, I believe, should not be any less than 3/4 full. I leave mine with just a very small pocket of air in the top section.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12577041*
> WOOHOO! :wheee:Finally got my 1st WC loop set up. It sucked up about a quart of distilled water. The pump has been running for about 45 mins and thus far no sign of leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Initially the pump was dead silent; I had to put my ear up to it to hear that it was running. Slowly it starting emitting more noise. Currently its running with a low hum similar to a fish tank. I will let it run overnight and keep shaking tower to get rid of bubbles.
> I have a question on the amount to keep in the reservoir. The pic below shows the initial amount, currently I added some more and topped it off. Is there a level of where it should be?
> 
> Building this loop has been a great experience. I want to thank all the knowledgeable folks in this thread for all the great advice.


Is there a crack on the res, on the top left corner where the faceplate screws in?


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12577311*
> Is there a crack on the res, on the top left corner where the faceplate screws in?


Unfortunately it is







(Good eye). When I was sliding the reservoir in, the drive bays were so tight that I had to force it in and the corner banged against the case. Luckily it's just the tip of the reservoir's front acrylic panel that got cracked. No leakage.


----------



## Captain Skyhawk

Just received my replacement pump from XSPC today. Any tips on how to uninstall my current one? And before I install this new one, does anyone have any advice on how to install to make sure no air gets inside the pump?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Captain Skyhawk*   Just received my replacement pump from XSPC today. Any tips on how to uninstall my current one? And before I install this new one, does anyone have any advice on how to install to make sure no air gets inside the pump?  
Good question for us new comers to WC. I had this very same problem so I did a little research and I came across this video which should help out. It will give you the basic idea. I just looked at disconnecting one of the tubes at a low convenient point in my loop (in other words, I improvised a bit).

  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dzxh9-aavQQ


----------



## thecyb0rg

Temp differences between RASA 240 and 360: Can anyone with comment on temperature differences (or what they would be) between the 240 and 360 kits? I plan on upgrading to a RASA in the next couple of months. Is a 360 sufficient enough for an overclocked CPU (SB) and GTX 580?

Also, if I go CPU only, is a 240 ideal, with the 360 being more money in than it is worth? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Zaxbys

Just got my Rasa 240 and I have some questions

I have an 8" silver coil strip but where should I put it?

Are hose clamps a must? If I do not use them are the tubing at risk for leak/blowing off?

Is it possible to attach the waterblock without removing my mobo from my NZXT phantom case?

Thanks

~Zax


----------



## AMOCO

put it in res./pump.just open filler plug and drop it in.thats where mine is.


----------



## Zaxbys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12580978*
> put it in res./pump.just open filler plug and drop it in.thats where mine is.


It won't get sucked into the pump will it?

And do I need to coil it up? Because mine came as a long strip


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*


It won't get sucked into the pump will it?

And do I need to coil it up? Because mine came as a long strip


yeah coil it. if u can, get it stuck between the molex and pump right under the fill hole. it wont move and chances of it being sucked in is slim.

if u want, u can add it in later after you finish air bleeding ( tilting case and shaking it )


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*


It won't get sucked into the pump will it?

And do I need to coil it up? Because mine came as a long strip


Coil it around a pencil spiral like,and no it won't get sucked into the pump.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaxbys;12580971*
> Just got my Rasa 240 and I have some questions
> 
> I have an 8" silver coil strip but where should I put it?
> 
> *Coil it up and dump into res. Won't get sucked in if coiled.*
> 
> Are hose clamps a must? If I do not use them are the tubing at risk for leak/blowing off?
> *
> If you are using the supplied tubing and barbs no. The tubing has an inside diameter of 7/16" and the barbs have an outside diameter of 1/2". The barbs are slightly larger and will make a very tight fit with the smaller diameter tubing. There is not enough pressure to "blow it off" IMO. I have it set up this way with no problem what so ever.*
> 
> Is it possible to attach the waterblock without removing my mobo from my NZXT phantom case?
> 
> *Depends... will the screws used to fix the waterblock to the mobo fit the backplate prersenty on the mobo? If not, then you will have to remove it unless your case provides enough of an opening on the back side of the mobo tray to work (typically they do not).*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ~Zax


See my responses above...


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg*


Temp differences between RASA 240 and 360: Can anyone with comment on temperature differences (or what they would be) between the 240 and 360 kits? I plan on upgrading to a RASA in the next couple of months. Is a 360 sufficient enough for an overclocked CPU (SB) and GTX 580?

Also, if I go CPU only, is a 240 ideal, with the 360 being more money in than it is worth? Thanks in advance.


For a CPU only loop, I doubt there will be a difference. But if you do plan to expand later on, then I would put my money on the RS360.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Good question for us new comers to WC. I had this very same problem so I did a little research and I came across this video which should help out. It will give you the basic idea. I just looked at disconnecting one of the tubes at a low convenient point in my loop (in other words, I improvised a bit).

BIG lesson learned... INSTALL A DRAIN PLUG!!! Hehehehe... Maybe I will do it now since I will be installing new red tubing shortly.

Here is the re-filling and bleeding video.


Anyone heard of siphoning???

Everyone makes it harder than it really is... Tilt the case to make the res the lowest part in the loop... and siphon... not hard really... Much easier than cutting tube or anything else... Drain plug is nice but I don't want an extra piece of tube just sitting there...









But to his their own...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


Anyone heard of siphoning???

Everyone makes it harder than it really is... Tilt the case to make the res the lowest part in the loop... and siphon... not hard really... Much easier than cutting tube or anything else... Drain plug is nice but I don't want an extra piece of tube just sitting there...









But to his their own...


Siphoning would work... good point. BUT, I was not making harder than it really is. Just never seen your method before. That's all.

Done properly, a drain plug does not necessarily need to be in plain sight.









And yes, to each their own. Wise words...


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Siphoning would work... good point. BUT, I was not making harder than it really is. Just never seen your method before. That's all.

Done properly, a drain plug does not necessarily need to be in plain sight.









And yes, to each their own. Wise words...


Sorry, I wasent meaning you were making it harder than what it really is... I was just refering to everyone in general...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


Sorry, I wasent meaning you were making it harder than what it really is... I was just refering to everyone in general...










I know... I have been a part of that general population as well (as you well saw!).

You should make a video on siphoning!!! Come on... you know you wanna do a video. The Stephen Spielberg in you begs you to make a video showing us all!


----------



## mbudden

That wouldn't be a video I would put in the OP.


----------



## Humanage

Hey, How high should the res/pump be filled?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humanage;12586406*
> Hey, How high should the res/pump be filled?


As long as there is enough for the pump to not suck in air, you should be fine. I just top mine off to the top.


----------



## Humanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12586449*
> As long as there is enough for the pump to not suck in air, you should be fine. I just top mine off to the top.


Okay, I'll fill it to the top. I have this annoying rattling, and I see an air bubble shaking at the top, I'll try filling it today and get back with results. Thanks!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humanage;12586552*
> Okay, I'll fill it to the top. I have this annoying rattling, and I see an air bubble shaking at the top, I'll try filling it today and get back with results. Thanks!


LOL, I think that rattle may or may not go away. Mine had a rattle that had me thinking the HDDs were running.


----------



## liquoredonlife

My computer stops whatever pump rattle if I tilt it. I put some bits of foam (from CD-R spindles) under the left computer feet which compress under the weight of the thing and don't make any noticeable tilt. Now I just hear fans.


----------



## ezveedub

Do you think there's RASA kit for this??? LOL!!!!









[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4spLDtzkgk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4spLDtzkgk"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4spLDtzkgk[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## Humanage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12588643*
> My computer stops whatever pump rattle if I tilt it. I put some bits of foam (from CD-R spindles) under the left computer feet which compress under the weight of the thing and don't make any noticeable tilt. Now I just hear fans.


I'll try that. The rattle didn't go away, and my computer also shuts up when I tilt it.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12588643*
> My computer stops whatever pump rattle if I tilt it. I put some bits of foam (from CD-R spindles) under the left computer feet which compress under the weight of the thing and don't make any noticeable tilt. Now I just hear fans.


Let me guess, the pump inlet side down. My bad one did the same thing but I really had to tilt it.


----------



## Captain Skyhawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


Anyone heard of siphoning???

Everyone makes it harder than it really is... Tilt the case to make the res the lowest part in the loop... and siphon... not hard really... Much easier than cutting tube or anything else... Drain plug is nice but I don't want an extra piece of tube just sitting there...









But to his their own...


I've not heard of it. Would you care to explain it?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Captain Skyhawk*


I've not heard of it. Would you care to explain it?


----------



## Captain Skyhawk

Well I'm not exactly sure how to do it. I would have assumed a tube similar to the one in the video is used. And you put it in the port and just bend it down into something to drain into. But I'm not sure if that's right or not.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Do you think there's RASA kit for this??? LOL!!!!











Better not have a leak... not because of the mobo and the electricity running through it but because the case ma disintegrate!

Wax the case up first to protect it???


----------



## Humanage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Let me guess, the pump inlet side down. My bad one did the same thing but I really had to tilt it.


What do you mean by "pump inlet side down"?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Humanage*


What do you mean by "pump inlet side down"?


Actually no, pump outlet side down I believe. At least for me that is. The rattle that I hear is from the pump impeller moving side to side. It you tilt the reservoir with the outlet side down, the impeller shifts and can't slide back and forth anymore, stopping the rattle sound.


----------



## terence52

the rasa mounted into my stacker


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Captain Skyhawk*


I've not heard of it. Would you care to explain it?


Good evening ladys and gentle men I am tonights entertainment...

oh sry...

http://www.firsttankguide.net/siphon.php

google is your friend mate...


----------



## Yukss

I love my rasa, look at my temps during the stability test









and my load cpu temps during benching 3dmark 11 are 54CÂ° lol...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


Good evening ladys and gentle men I am tonights entertainment...

oh sry...

http://www.firsttankguide.net/siphon.php

google is your friend mate...


Ahhh you SEE! You know this because you are a fish tank addict! Hehehehe (used to own salt water tanks waaaay back in the day). Thanks for the link. Will give it a try later on when my new tubing arrives!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Actually no, pump outlet side down I believe. At least for me that is. The rattle that I hear is from the pump impeller moving side to side. It you tilt the reservoir with the outlet side down, the impeller shifts and can't slide back and forth anymore, stopping the rattle sound.


Hmmm... does not work here. Mrs. Kah keeps rattling... oh wait... she rambles... pump rattles. Ok gotcha now!

Pump still rattles away...









Bahhh... Kah... just get the friggin MCP655 and be done with it!


----------



## Penryn

Count me in!


----------



## Blue Destroyer

add me. just ordered it a day ago and its "packing" right now!!!!!!


----------



## metroidfreak

A week and a half later my new pump is finally in. Dead silent with just cpu, and a little noise with two GPU blocks. I haven't even put the panels or front of the case back on either.


----------



## Dissentience

Got my loop back together yesterday. Pics to come! My temps are a few degrees worse than the first time I had the loop going, probably due to a bad block seat or because the rad is mounted on the back now. Still only 45C max temp under Prime95 load @ 4 GHz (1.46v).


----------



## Penryn

Can someone let me know what their P95 load temps are with an i7? I just want to compare. Debating on switching the rad to intake.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12595892*
> Hmmm... does not work here. Mrs. Kah keeps rattling... oh wait... she rambles... pump rattles. Ok gotcha now!
> 
> Pump still rattles away...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bahhh... Kah... just get the friggin MCP655 and be done with it!


The impeller is whats probably rattling... just wasent secured well enough at xspc when being manufactured... honestly I wish the pump could be swapped in this system rather than being a res/pump combo that can't be taken out. Glad I don't have this problem though...


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penryn;12596453*
> Can someone let me know what their P95 load temps are with an i7? I just want to compare. Debating on switching the rad to intake.


My i7 granted its an sandybridge... 32nm is @50 deg C prime load @ 4Ghz... at 5.0 Ghz im running between 70-75.

I bought 4 new scythe slipstream fans and lost 5-10 degrees C.

I didn't like the stockers that much but their good for a starter kit.









edit: I would say run intake... even if your rad is at the top... you get benefits from the positive air pressure as long as you have mesh in a few places... Air is constantly being pushed out of my case... I just think it works better that way... all my exhausts are at the back... powersupply/Graphics card/1 120mm fan.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12595892*
> Hmmm... does not work here. Mrs. Kah keeps rattling... oh wait... she rambles... pump rattles. Ok gotcha now!
> 
> Pump still rattles away...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bahhh... Kah... just get the friggin MCP655 and be done with it!


MCP655 (D5) now? I thought the MCP350 (DDC1) was what you were going for?


----------



## Penryn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX;12596570*
> My i7 granted its an sandybridge... 32nm is @50 deg C prime load @ 4Ghz... at 5.0 Ghz im running between 70-75.
> 
> I bought 4 new scythe slipstream fans and lost 5-10 degrees C.
> 
> I didn't like the stockers that much but their good for a starter kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I would say run intake... even if your rad is at the top... you get benefits from the positive air pressure as long as you have mesh in a few places... Air is constantly being pushed out of my case... I just think it works better that way... all my exhausts are at the back... powersupply/Graphics card/1 120mm fan.


Thing is atm I have the front back and bottom fans as intake and exhast through the top, so would I be ok to switch the back to exhaust and intake from top/front/bottom?


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penryn;12596868*
> Thing is atm I have the front back and bottom fans as intake and exhast through the top, so would I be ok to switch the back to exhaust and intake from top/front/bottom?


I'm doing intake from front, side, top, and exhaust out the back... you just have to take into consideration that your exhausting out with the powersupply too... and maybe the graphics card... depends on some models... Yes heat rises but honestly if you have positive air pressure air\heat will go out any vent... so if your case has vents you should be fine with that setup... me being in an HAF I have lots of vents...


----------



## Penryn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX;12597006*
> I'm doing intake from front, side, top, and exhaust out the back... you just have to take into consideration that your exhausting out with the powersupply too... and maybe the graphics card... depends on some models... Yes heat rises but honestly if you have positive air pressure air\heat will go out any vent... so if your case has vents you should be fine with that setup... me being in an HAF I have lots of vents...


Thanks, I have lots of vents also (8 fans going currently) so I will swap it around after breakfast. Thanks!


----------



## nicksasa

Today i looked at the tubes again, and now they are clearly turing dark green/brown. Res is clear and so is the water.
Ordered UV black & rasa gpu block + ram heatsinks


----------



## liquoredonlife

I didn't rinse my cpu block, gpu block, res or tubes- only the radiator when I first got it. Did a full drain a week later after running 24/7 since my tubes seemed to have the slightest tint of green. Less than a week later, it seems to be clearing up. Going to see if I can get the water I drained out of the system analyzed by my friend who works for city waste water treatment.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

i was wondering what type of temps i can expect to get with the 240 kit? i ordered it and was hoping for low 50's at my current overclock.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12597691*
> I didn't rinse my cpu block, gpu block, res or tubes- only the radiator when I first got it. Did a full drain a week later after running 24/7 since my tubes seemed to have the slightest tint of green. Less than a week later, it seems to be clearing up. Going to see if I can get the water I drained out of the system analyzed by my friend who works for city waste water treatment.


Sounds like algae. If you drained it and refilled, it may have nothing to feed on now, so its clearing up.

All the posts about green and brown hoses makes me wonder what water is being used or whats in it. I personally only have slightly pink hoses if I use clear tubing. Its from the coolant I run. It doesn't color anything else though.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Factors that affect your temperature at blocks:

Ambient temperature
Radiator size (to an extent)
Radiator location (internal vs external mounted)
Fans used (brand / model)
Fan speed used
Fan orientation (push/pull)
Fan shroud used
System properly bled?
Thermal Interface Material (TIM) usage and application method
Pressure of block
Flatness of block / cpu
Tube length
# of angled fittings / restrictive fittings used
Overclock amount / voltage
Type of coolant
Sequence of water cooling components (only in multi block systems)

You've just given a small handful of these variables, and while many of these aren't significant, the ones that certainly are the most are present ambient temperature, radiator mounting location.

If properly installed, will it be cooler than anything on air or the self-contained liquid coolers (h50/h70)? Yes. Depending on ambient, 20C on an overclocked system at load would be fair approximation and a reasonable goal to shoot for. At idle, it should be no more than a few degrees above ambient.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12597809*
> Sounds like algae. If you drained it and refilled, it may have nothing to feed on now, so its clearing up.
> 
> All the posts about green and brown hoses makes me wonder what water is being used or whats in it. I personally only have slightly pink hoses if I use clear tubing. Its from the coolant I run. It doesn't color anything else though.


I used pure distilled... but I still got algae. Honestly, I bought cheap store distilled water (silver kill coil)... thats all they had... I'm going to drain and refill again eventually with some other brand (I replaced the tubing already with primochill tubing I think). IDK but it made me mad.







It was only the tubes so idk...


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12597809*
> Sounds like algae. If you drained it and refilled, it may have nothing to feed on now, so its clearing up.
> 
> All the posts about green and brown hoses makes me wonder what water is being used or whats in it. I personally only have slightly pink hoses if I use clear tubing. Its from the coolant I run. It doesn't color anything else though.


Yeah, sounds like it. I have a kill coil sitting where the water returns to the reservoir (exit gpu block, enter reservoir inlet). First used ultra pure water obtained from a chemistry lab, now just running on grocery store distilled.

I'm also using primochill clear. I'll probably switch to a colored tube at some point.


----------



## mbudden

I highly doubt that you guys are getting algae.


----------



## RaCeR123

I'm curious, how is the RS360 Radiator compared to this really interested in it.


----------



## Penryn

I am using distilled water with water wetter 8P. Also... is the res cap on these watertight as well?


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12599244*
> I'm curious, how is the RS360 Radiator compared to this really interested in it.


Based on dimensions, it's 12mm thicker. That's really cheap though. If you're just cooling your CPU you probably won't notice much of difference depending on overclock. Also depends on what fan speed you plan to run.

More here


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penryn;12599421*
> I am using distilled water with water wetter 8P. Also... is the res cap on these watertight as well?


You should be fine, as long as your not dropping your case or making it tip over.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humanage;12594002*
> What do you mean by "pump inlet side down"?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12594445*
> Actually no, pump outlet side down I believe. At least for me that is. The rattle that I hear is from the pump impeller moving side to side. It you tilt the reservoir with the outlet side down, the impeller shifts and can't slide back and forth anymore, stopping the rattle sound.


Maybe I should reword that, to Looking at it from the front, the left side down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12599136*
> I highly doubt that you guys are getting algae.


I agree, a fish tank only needs cleaned about once a month. One week is way to fast for algae to grow to the point you can see it.


----------



## GoodInk

Double post


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12597699*
> i was wondering what type of temps i can expect to get with the 240 kit? i ordered it and was hoping for low 50's at my current overclock.


This is with a 1090T under a RS240 kit.
http://www.overclock.net/12097917-post2773.html


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12599524*
> I agree, a fish tank only needs cleaned about once a month. One week is way to fast for algae to grow to the point you can see it.


Not to mention, algae needs light to grow. So unless you're keeping your case near your window with the tubing and res exposed to the light. I doubt it's algae.


----------



## RaCeR123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12599487*
> Based on dimensions, it's 12mm thicker. That's really cheap though. If you're just cooling your CPU you probably won't notice much of difference depending on overclock. Also depends on what fan speed you plan to run.
> 
> More here


Yeah after reading the view seems like it's even out performed by the RX360. Maybe I should wait on upgrading my radiator till I throw my 6950 under water.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Not to mention, algae needs light to grow. So unless you're keeping your case near your window with the tubing and res exposed to the light. I doubt it's algae.


My computer is on a desk less than a foot away from a north facing window, and my case door has a window as well.

Good reason to switch to black tube?


----------



## Dissentience

Pics of my rig after loop rebuild. I know what you're thinking: Cable management! Don't worry, I just threw it together like that because I have a modular Antec PSU on the way.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Hey guys. Im not a member but id like to be. Right now im weighing my options and trying to decide if I need the 360 or if the 240 will suffice. Id like to cool both my cpu and gpu so I guess what I'm wondering is if the 240 would keep both cool enough to make a difference or if I should go with the 360.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


My computer is on a desk less than a foot away from a north facing window, and my case door has a window as well.

Good reason to switch to black tube?


Not an expert but wouldn't th black tube then get warm due to sunlight?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12600564*
> Hey guys. Im not a member but id like to be. Right now im weighing my options and trying to decide if I need the 360 or if the 240 will suffice. Id like to cool both my cpu and gpu so I guess what I'm wondering is if the 240 would keep both cool enough to make a difference or if I should go with the 360.


if your doing your gpu, go with the 360. for an extra $20 its worth it. i just ordered the 240 only for a cpu and if i had room, i would have went with the 360.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Thank you, sir. I'll have to rep you when I get home, my phone is being a turd atm


----------



## HiLuckyB

Go RX360 if you can







It fits perfectly in the top of the HAF 932


----------



## nden

Just got my RX360 kit setup and running, currently testing my cpu temp.


----------



## mbudden

I will be going through and adding everyone in a bit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


My computer is on a desk less than a foot away from a north facing window, and my case door has a window as well.

Good reason to switch to black tube?


I don't think you'd have to worry. But if you're still using the tubing that came with the kit, you will want to switch to new tubing anyways since it does turn brown.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Pics of my rig after loop rebuild. I know what you're thinking: Cable management! Don't worry, I just threw it together like that because I have a modular Antec PSU on the way.


Hey, I think someone stole my case mod









Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


Not an expert but wouldn't th black tube then get warm due to sunlight?


It could possibly add a few C not only to his loop, but inside his case. But I doubt it would be anything remotely large.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Go RX360 if you can







It fits perfectly in the top of the HAF 932










I thought with the case, you're able to put it at the top. But the rad will be entering into the top spots of the 5.25" drive bays?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12601322*
> 
> I thought with the case, you're able to put it at the top. But the rad will be entering into the top spots of the 5.25" drive bays?


It does, But as long as you don't have more then 2 dvd burners it works out fine


----------



## Garanthor

Ok, finally got some pictures with an actual camera this time. Note I like to have the cover off the res. The blue looks nice and reflects well on the floor in front of the PC. The 90 degree rad mount stays out of the way of all cables. Running the outflow tube behind the MB keeps things clean IMO.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12601322*
> I thought with the case, you're able to put it at the top. But the rad will be entering into the top spots of the 5.25" drive bays?


I have a HAF 932 with RX360 and all my bays are being used. The top bay is partially used by the radiator, but not completely, so I fit my fan controller in there.










Here the pic the Molex connector for the Sunbeam fan controller in the top bay next to the radiator. It's not pinched either.


----------



## mbudden

I thought for a second there you plugged in your pump into the controller.


----------



## The Sandman

I'm another one with the brownish green Primochill tubing after just 3 weeks. What's the fix? I've just received my rotary 45's and more tubing and wonder if this will require a complete dis-assembly/cleaning of everything or perhaps the radiator and WB is enough?

What's best to clean it with?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12602030*
> I'm another one with the brownish green Primochill tubing after just 3 weeks. What's the fix? I've just received my rotary 45's and more tubing and wonder if this will require a complete dis-assembly/cleaning of everything or perhaps the radiator and WB is enough?
> 
> What's best to clean it with?


Wait, you're saying your Primochill tubing is turning brownish green? What color tubing did you get?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;12601801*
> Ok, finally got some pictures with an actual camera this time. Note I like to have the cover off the res. The blue looks nice and reflects well on the floor in front of the PC. The 90 degree rad mount stays out of the way of all cables. Running the outflow tube behind the MB keeps things clean IMO.


I am personally not into the dyes and such (the "gunk fear" in me... thats all) but I have to say it... that light blue looks awesome IMO... I really like how it looks.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12602071*
> Wait, you're saying your Primochill tubing is turning brownish green? What color tubing did you get?


Yes that's exactly what I'm saying lol.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12601891*
> I have a HAF 932 with RX360 and all my bays are being used. The top bay is partially used by the radiator, but not completely, so I fit my fan controller in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the pic the Molex connector for the Sunbeam fan controller in the top bay next to the radiator. It's not pinched either.


Hey, I appreciate the pictures and the info. Makes me decision a lot easier.

The only question I have, is how do you have your rad configured? Intake with 3 push/3 pull?


----------



## mbudden

For some reason, that tubing looks like clear tubing...
I remember someone posted in this thread that tubing does some weird thing. I forgot the name of it...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12602191*
> For some reason, that tubing looks like clear tubing...
> I remember someone posted in this thread that tubing does some weird thing. I forgot the name of it...


They were saying something about plasticizer and to use Tygon tubing that doesn't have that, so it won't turn white


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


For some reason, that tubing looks like clear tubing... 
I remember someone posted in this thread that tubing does some weird thing. I forgot the name of it...


Yes it use to be nice and clear lol. Just slightly tainted now. There's a vertical section of tubing for a drain that's still nice and clear and you can see how the flow has taking it's toll in the other sections by comparison. Maybe I'm just being anal about it but it is discolored some. I also found out after first installation how foolish it was to have not bought the rotary's and now that they're here I want to redo the lines. Hence the reason I asked how far I should go as far as flushing the Rad again (over a gallon distilled with vinegar first time) with absolutely nothing at all coming out of it. Maybe it's the tubing? I'm not that worried about it but seems odd when I think how it might be in a month or three. Any thoughts? How far would you go with cleaning?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


Yes it use to be nice and clear lol. Just slightly tainted now. There's a vertical section of tubing for a drain that's still nice and clear and you can see how the flow has taking it's toll in the other sections by comparison. Maybe I'm just being anal about it but it is discolored some. I also found out after first installation how foolish it was to have not bought the rotary's and now that they're here I want to redo the lines. Hence the reason I asked how far I should go as far as flushing the Rad again (over a gallon distilled with vinegar first time) with absolutely nothing at all coming out of it. Maybe it's the tubing? I'm not that worried about it but seems odd when I think how it might be in a month or three. Any thoughts? How far would you go with cleaning?


I believe it is the tubing but you mentioned something... flushing with a water/vinegar mixture. I am wondering if maybe any residual vinegar from the flushing has something to do with this browning of clear tubing. I also flushed with a water/vinegar solution all though i rinsed it out repeatedly afterwards with clean water.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


Hey, I appreciate the pictures and the info. Makes me decision a lot easier.

The only question I have, is how do you have your rad configured? Intake with 3 push/3 pull?


Three Koolance 120mm 2200RPM fans in push only. They only run about 1450-1800 RPM with the PWM speed controller based off the mobo bios settings I have.


----------



## mbudden

Why is your tubing so long....


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Three Koolance 120mm 2200RPM fans in push only. They only run about 1450-1800 RPM with the PWM speed controller based off the mobo bios settings I have.




















Why so much extra tubing?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Why so much extra tubing?


I wasn't finished with the install and was still waiting on parts for installing a drain, so I left the hoses long so I could cut them later on exactly as I needed after I install my two 6870 video cards. Was going to do that tonight, but UPS waited till I left the house and drop off that "We missed you" notice, LOL!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


...but UPS waited till I left the house and drop off that "We missed you" notice, LOL!


Nahhhhhh.... Certainly you are joking!!!


----------



## ezveedub

OK, not sure how are left, but Cray PC seems to be going out of business, soooo.....










XSPC RASA RX360 kit for $179.99
http://www.crazypc.com/products/xspc-rx360-93820.html

And the Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller (PL-SFC-6) $30.05
http://www.crazypc.com/products/rheosmart-6-82975.html

Wish they were on sale when I wanted these....


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Nahhhhhh.... Certainly you are joking!!!










I think they send a Ninja, because I never hear any delivery trucks, but there's always a delivery notice. They don't ring the door bell either, but I actually saw the Fedex guy deliver a package this week and he dropped it off, knocked twice quickly and and took off around the corner on foot. Seems like they park elsewhere and and do deliveries on foot.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


OK, not sure how are left, but Cray PC seems to be going out of business, soooo.....









XSPC RASA RX360 kit for $179.99
http://www.crazypc.com/products/xspc-rx360-93820.html

And the Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller (PL-SFC-6) $30.05
http://www.crazypc.com/products/rheosmart-6-82975.html

Wish they were on sale when I wanted these....


U R right. Tubing and pumps are at reduced prices as well.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I believe it is the tubing but you mentioned something... flushing with a water/vinegar mixture. I am wondering if maybe any residual vinegar from the flushing has something to do with this browning of clear tubing. I also flushed with a water/vinegar solution all though i rinsed it out repeatedly afterwards with clean water.


Same here, rinsed like crazy. Oh well I'm taking this thing apart and see if there's anything to see inside. I want the rotary's on and than shorten tubing up.
Stayed up late as heck last night installing a new RAID 0 with two WD640 GB 6.0GBs so what the heck right? lol.


----------



## nden

What the best way to test your cpu temp? Prime95?

I'm running Prime95 for 1 hour now, temp is at 55-60C now. Idle is about 40C in my room (my room is 25C). what do you think?

I have 3 fans pulling air out from inside the case.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


Same here, rinsed like crazy. Oh well I'm taking this thing apart and see if there's anything to see inside. I want the rotary's on and than shorten tubing up.
Stayed up late as heck last night installing a new RAID 0 with two WD640 GB 6.0GBs so what the heck right? lol.


Yeah... been reading about that RAID thing. Just not sure if its the thing for me though it sounds interesting enough.

I will get rotary's but waiting to see what case I get first. Want to change the HAF 922 to a full tower.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I thought for a second there you plugged in your pump into the controller.


LOL! Actually, I could. I have a 10 watt DDC pump running, not the X20 750 pump. My DDC pump has the 3 pin fan connector, not a molex. The controller handles 30 watts, so I could actually PWM speed control it from the Sunbeamtech unit


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yeah... been reading about that RAID thing. Just not sure if its the thing for me though it sounds interesting enough.

I will get rotary's but waiting to see what case I get first. Want to change the HAF 922 to a full tower.


RAID depends on if you want speed or redundancy from your HDDs. I been using those in every build for 10 years now. BUT, I just installed a OCZ SSD Agility 2 and now have my old RAID 0 as my main storage drives. This SSD is so fast, I'm tempted to get another and RAID 0 them, LOL! Only thing that was remotely close to it was my 10K Raptors in RAID 0.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nden*


What the best way to test your cpu temp? Prime95?

I'm running Prime95 for 1 hour now, temp is at 55-60C now. Idle is about 40C in my room (my room is 25C). what do you think?

I have 3 fans pulling air out from inside the case.


What tim did you use? That seem high for your cpu.


----------



## Captain Skyhawk

Wow, installed my replacement pump today and the difference is phenomenal. It's completely silent, all I hear are the fans. I wasn't even sure it was pumping at first but I can see water moving if I look close.

Although it took a bit of nagging on my part to get XSPC to send me a replacement, they came through and the outcome is great. Very pleased.

It's also inspired to try and go even quieter. Any tips?


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12602546*
> Maybe it's the tubing? I'm not that worried about it but seems odd when I think how it might be in a month or three. Any thoughts? How far would you go with cleaning?


Do a drain and refill. See if that clears it up. Well you'll have to when installing your new fittings.

I ran with my first fill for about a week 24/7. Drained it, refilled, bled and it looks better. I have the same tubing as you. Might be something in the pump/res or the cpu block.


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12603482*
> What tim did you use? That seem high for your cpu.


I'm using Artic MX-4.

my CPU running at 4.4ghz 1.344V. and i'm using 3 Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

BOOOOO!!! My order that I submitted on the 1st has been "packing" since yesterday morning. Us frozencpu really this slow on shipping items? I mean "packing" for 2+ days?


----------



## mbudden

Nope. Mine ordered in the morning, packed before noon and shipped before closed.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12604066*
> I'm using Artic MX-4.
> 
> my CPU running at 4.4ghz 1.344V. and i'm using 3 Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM.


Something doesn't seem right. Ive seen better temps with people on air coolers







Maybe theres air in the loop still?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12604255*
> BOOOOO!!! My order that I submitted on the 1st has been "packing" since yesterday morning. Us frozencpu really this slow on shipping items? I mean "packing" for 2+ days?


I order from FrozenCPU and Jabtech a couple days ago. Jabtech got delivered today and FrozenCPU's package is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow.

Seemed fairly quick to me. Bit places packed and delivered to shipping company on the same day.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Well according to frozencpu, the 750 rs240 is still oos but orderable. Guess there waiting on the kit to come in before they ship everything.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Pretty sure I'm going to get some compression fittings to make things look a little cleaner in my case. 90 degree into the block, straight from the pump/res, 90 degree out to a 45 into the rad, 90 out, 45 in.. (unless there are better suggestions, I'm new to w/c) that way I dont have any excess tubing.

Edit: I described the route backwards, I'm a moron. I apologize.


----------



## Dissentience

I think I must have had a bad set of the CPU block. My idle temps are at ~40C and my load temps are at ~53C. I will do a reseat when I swap out my PSU for a new one when it gets here. Either that or the dust filters I put on my rad fans are causing it.


----------



## metroidfreak

Stupid MCW80.... doesnt work with reference 570's. MCW60s of course do.... in anyone wants to upgrade their 60 to an 80 take a look in the trade section... looks like the second card wont be water cooled for now...


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Does anyone know what threads the fill port has on the XSPC 360 kit? I want to run something from the hole on top of my case but I want to get everything all in one go.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12605554*
> Does anyone know what threads the fill port has on the XSPC 360 kit? I want to run something from the hole on top of my case but I want to get everything all in one go.


Its M20x1.5mm.

http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-M20x1.5mm-to-G1-4-fillcap-adapter-pr-4205.html


----------



## Quccu

Hi, I'm about to buy the RX360 or RX240 - haven't made up my mind yet as to whether or not the extra money is worth it for RX360. But I was just wondering, where would be the best place to mount the radiator on my Silverstone RV02 Case? Inside where abouts? or outside perhaps?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12605675*
> Its M20x1.5mm.
> 
> http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-M20x1.5mm-to-G1-4-fillcap-adapter-pr-4205.html


thank you


----------



## sabawballs

hi guys.

been backreading for awhile and it seems that you recommend the RX360 if in the near future ill be adding my GPU (maybe xfire).

my question is i have an nzxt gamma (mid tower) but it seems smaller comparing to other mid tower cases.

on the top of the case it has slots for 2 140mm fans meaning i could mount a 240 res no problem at all. but how about a 360?

will it be a bad idea if a parts of the res will be covered since at the top i only have 2 slots for fans? or should i just put it outside at the back of my case?

also just wondering, if i put it outside the case, wouldnt it block the I/O ang the vcard (dvi-hdmi) slots completely?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabawballs;12605896*
> hi guys.
> 
> been backreading for awhile and it seems that you recommend the RX360 if in the near future ill be adding my GPU (maybe xfire).
> 
> my question is i have an nzxt gamma (mid tower) but it seems smaller comparing to other mid tower cases.
> 
> on the top of the case it has slots for 2 140mm fans meaning i could mount a 240 res no problem at all. but how about a 360?
> 
> will it be a bad idea if a parts of the res will be covered since at the top i only have 2 slots for fans? or should i just put it outside at the back of my case?
> 
> also just wondering, if i put it outside the case, wouldnt it block the I/O ang the vcard (dvi-hdmi) slots completely?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Looks like a RX240 would sit on top just fine. You could do pull setup fan setup or push/pull (need two more fans). In a push, you would leave your rad fins open to damage if something falls on it. You could do a RX360, but then you would have to use the brackets in the kit and elevate the radiator off the case to get an opening for the radiator to suck air in completely across it. That would be a pull fan setup.


----------



## sabawballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12606087*
> Looks like a RX240 would sit on top just fine. You could do pull setup fan setup or push/pull (need two more fans). In a push, you would leave your rad fins open to damage if something falls on it. You could do a RX360, but then you would have to use the brackets in the kit and elevate the radiator off the case to get an opening for the radiator to suck air in completely across it. That would be a pull fan setup.


but would a 240 kit suffice if in the future ill add up my VC (or even xfire) ?? or should i get a 360 now?

options are..

1. 240 kit now and mount it inside. then just add 2 x 120 rads later plus most probably i need to upgrade my pump?

OR

2. get 360 kit now and mount it outside and add gpu blocks int the future (though not sure if 1 360 rad will suffice for a cpu+dual gpu setup)

here is a pic of my case. hopefully you can help me decide


----------



## Annex

I read every now and then that water cooling the cpu can allow you to lessen the voltage a bit.. not sure how that works, but is it true?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;12606459*
> I read every now and then that water cooling the cpu can allow you to lessen the voltage a bit.. not sure how that works, but is it true?


yes,it is true.i get higher clocks with less volts.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quccu;12605735*
> Hi, I'm about to buy the RX360 or RX240 - haven't made up my mind yet as to whether or not the extra money is worth it for RX360. But I was just wondering, where would be the best place to mount the radiator on my Silverstone RV02 Case? Inside where abouts? or outside perhaps?


Well i saw some peeps put there 360 rad in side...if u want better idea how to water cool ur case,specially how to mount ur rad..go to my sig below...on my silverstone club..and browse to the picture of other peeps with same case u got and has water cooling on it..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabawballs;12606127*
> but would a 240 kit suffice if in the future ill add up my VC (or even xfire) ?? or should i get a 360 now?
> 
> options are..
> 
> 1. 240 kit now and mount it inside. then just add 2 x 120 rads later plus most probably i need to upgrade my pump?
> 
> OR
> 
> 2. get 360 kit now and mount it outside and add gpu blocks int the future (though not sure if 1 360 rad will suffice for a cpu+dual gpu setup)
> 
> here is a pic of my case. hopefully you can help me decide


If you are certain you will have 2 GPU's in the future and you are going to WC them both, get the 360 now. Less work and you save money (shipping on only the 360 versus shipping on the 240 now and then on the 360 later).

Besides, the 240's seem to be out of stock in many stores at this time. You will probably have better luck getting a hold of a 360. The RX360 will handle you intended setup. Pump would be the only future issue you will need to possibly (key word here) consider. Some members have stated that the kit pump will be able to handle it if you maintain a single rad in the loop.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12607368*
> If you are certain you will have 2 GPU's in the future and you are going to WC them both, get the 360 now. Less work and you save money (shipping on only the 360 versus shipping on the 240 now and then on the 360 later).
> 
> Besides, the 240's seem to be out of stock in many stores at this time. You will probably have better luck getting a hold of a 360. The RX360 will handle you intended setup. Pump would be the only future issue you will need to possibly (key word here) consider. Some members have stated that the kit pump will be able to handle it if you maintain a single rad in the loop.


So you guys would say that the 750 pump wouldn't handle 2 rads? Just curious because thats what I plan on doing here soon... by soon I mean summer... I guess I could use this pump/res for my bulldozer build if thats true...

Thanks in adv as always.


----------



## AMOCO

I'm using 2 rads.BUT,The other one is a 120mm rad. and a motherboard water block.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Skyhawk;12603633*
> Wow, installed my replacement pump today and the difference is phenomenal. It's completely silent, all I hear are the fans. I wasn't even sure it was pumping at first but I can see water moving if I look close.
> 
> Although it took a bit of nagging on my part to get XSPC to send me a replacement, they came through and the outcome is great. Very pleased.
> 
> It's also inspired to try and go even quieter. Any tips?


New fans, AP-14's or go for the 15's if you need the extra CFM's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX;12607458*
> So you guys would say that the 750 pump wouldn't handle 2 rads? Just curious because thats what I plan on doing here soon... by soon I mean summer... I guess I could use this pump/res for my bulldozer build if thats true...
> 
> Thanks in adv as always.


The pump can handle 2 rads easy, its the block you need to worry about. I wouldn't push more than 3 blocks and 2 rads.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12607576*
> New fans, AP-14's or go for the 15's if you need the extra CFM's.


The AP-15's are near impossible to get right now. AP-14's are available aaaaand... I have noticed that many stores have them now in the $12-13 range as well. Maybe some sort of "new" replacement is on the way or something or just heavy market demand?

Also... are the AP-14/15's a good choice as case fans? I know static pressure is not as big a deal for case fans unless you use filters (which I don't). I am thinking more along the lines of going all out Yate Loons (25 and/or 38 mm's) as case fans, high speed, with fan controller.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12607951*
> The AP-15's are near impossible to get right now. AP-14's are available aaaaand... I have noticed that many stores have them now in the $12-13 range as well. Maybe some sort of "new" replacement is on the way or something or just heavy market demand?
> 
> Also... are the AP-14/15's a good choice as case fans? I know static pressure is not as big a deal for case fans unless you use filters (which I don't). I am thinking more along the lines of going all out Yate Loons (25 and/or 38 mm's) as case fans, high speed, with fan controller.


Well they still move at ton of air and are very quite so yes the make great case fans too. AP-14's are near silent fans at full speed, AP-15's you can here at full speed but are still very quite for the amount of air they move.

AP-15's

http://www.atacom.com/program/print_html_new.cgi?Pagecode=SEARCH_ALL&Item_code=FANS_SCYT_GT_15&USER_ID=www&cart_id=6127319_190_124_162_253

http://www.comeuro.net/webshop/product.php?productid=133287


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12607987*
> Well they still move at ton of air and are very quite so yes the make great case fans too. AP-14's are near silent fans at full speed, AP-15's you can here at full speed but are still very quite for the amount of air they move.
> 
> AP-15's
> 
> http://www.atacom.com/program/print_html_new.cgi?Pagecode=SEARCH_ALL&Item_code=FANS_SCYT_GT_15&USER_ID=www&cart_id=6127319_190_124_162_253
> 
> http://www.comeuro.net/webshop/product.php?productid=133287


Ahhhh maaaannnn! Thank you! The AP-14's, 85 CFM and then DEAD SILENT? I may be picking up between 9-12 of them! Let's see what the shipping is though. I was looking at a case reseller. They would send me the case, to Puerto Rico, $115 shipping - by UPS GROUND SERVICE!!!! I called the reseller up and asked them how the heck UPS was gonna achieve that feat! Told them it would be worth every penny to see them try! Standard Air by UPS was like $180...


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12607987*
> Well they still move at ton of air and are very quite so yes the make great case fans too. AP-14's are near silent fans at full speed, AP-15's you can here at full speed but are still very quite for the amount of air they move.
> 
> AP-15's
> 
> http://www.atacom.com/program/print_html_new.cgi?Pagecode=SEARCH_ALL&Item_code=FANS_SCYT_GT_15&USER_ID=www&cart_id=6127319_190_124_162_253
> 
> http://www.comeuro.net/webshop/product.php?productid=133287


I am running 4 of these -
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185060

Mostly because of price and I bought controllers to regulate them... They push lots of air... I'm still pushing around 90-100 CFM and don't hear them over the fish tank behind me so... it was worth it in my opinion... that extra 10-20 CFM though it gets loud... another 300 rpm...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX;12608148*
> I am running 4 of these -
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185060
> 
> Mostly because of price and I bought controllers to regulate them... They push lots of air... I'm still pushing around 90-100 CFM and don't hear them over the fish tank behind me so... it was worth it in my opinion... that extra 10-20 CFM though it gets loud... another 300 rpm...


Case-wise they are a good choice IMO. I am also looking at exchanging my rad fans as well. They wouldn't be a good choice in that case, right? (looked for static pressure info but didn't find any readily available)


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12608241*
> Case-wise they are a good choice IMO. I am also looking at exchanging my rad fans as well. They wouldn't be a good choice in that case, right? (looked for static pressure info but didn't find any readily available)


Check out this thread, Martinm210 put in a ton of time and work testing all of these fans. Make sure you watch the videos too, as the quality may make or break a fan depending on what your ears like.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/859483-round-6-fan-testing-working-thread.html


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12607987*
> Well they still move at ton of air and are very quite so yes the make great case fans too. AP-14's are near silent fans at full speed, AP-15's you can here at full speed but are still very quite for the amount of air they move.
> 
> AP-15's
> 
> http://www.atacom.com/program/print_html_new.cgi?Pagecode=SEARCH_ALL&Item_code=FANS_SCYT_GT_15&USER_ID=www&cart_id=6127319_190_124_162_253
> 
> http://www.comeuro.net/webshop/product.php?productid=133287


So these would be good to use with an rx360?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12609237*
> So these would be good to use with an rx360?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Oh yes. Considered the best option (and quietest also) for the rads.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

well crossing my fingers today hoping that my XSPC RASA 750 order that was submitted on Tuesday might ship today and not take a full week to even ship.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12609131*
> Check out this thread, Martinm210 put in a ton of time and work testing all of these fans. Make sure you watch the videos too, as the quality may make or break a fan depending on what your ears like.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/859483-round-6-fan-testing-working-thread.html


Ahhhhh thanxxxx man! I had seen Martins other tests but not this one with the RADS. This is EXACTLY what I needed to see. Gracias amigo! +Rep...


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12608241*
> Case-wise they are a good choice IMO. I am also looking at exchanging my rad fans as well. They wouldn't be a good choice in that case, right? (looked for static pressure info but didn't find any readily available)


Found this on a forum

500RPM -- 0.12mmAq
800RPM -- 0.34mmAq
1200RPM -- 0.92mmAq
1600RPM -- 1.46mmAq
1900RPM -- 2.30mmAq

idk is that good? Honestly, I picked them up because of CFM... I don't understand what Static Pressure does/is and why its good...

sry this is one thing I don't know... im still a newbie when it comes to radiators and fans for radiators... I know a lot about pumps though... lol just doesn't help me in this situation...









I also saw this on their website

Silent to Power User Ready
Silent user can obtain more airflow without sacrificing in noise level and power user can get extra airflow from the static pressure feature. Total 5 different rpm to choose from! (500rpm ~ 1900rpm)


----------



## AMDMAXX

read some stuff to educate myself on the topic... its understandable... they're in push pull config... a Radiator is made for air to flow threw it... I don't know the static pressure on yate loon fans to compare or contrast between the two fans... yet...









http://www.fantronic.com/case_fan_guide.html

edit: guess I made a noob mistake at thinking that cfm would lead to a higher cooling ability\static pressure... It happens... I'll have to pick up some new fans (I still lost about 7ish degrees celcius from the stock fans... which is not a small feat in and of itself)... I will figure that out eventually... only set me back 35 bucks and I can use them as case fans so its not a big loss...









What do you guys think of these?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835705004&cm_re=panaflo_120mm-_-35-705-004-_-Product


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX;12609577*
> read some stuff to educate myself on the topic... its understandable... they're in push pull config... a Radiator is made for air to flow threw it... I don't know the static pressure on yate loon fans to compare or contrast between the two fans... yet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.fantronic.com/case_fan_guide.html
> 
> edit: guess I made a noob mistake at thinking that cfm would lead to a higher cooling ability\static pressure... It happens... I'll have to pick up some new fans (I still lost about 7ish degrees celcius from the stock fans... which is not a small feat in and of itself)... I will figure that out eventually... only set me back 35 bucks and I can use them as case fans so its not a big loss...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of these?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835705004&cm_re=panaflo_120mm-_-35-705-004-_-Product


Think of static pressure as head pressure on a pump. Its not how much it air it moves, its how much it can push air through something.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX;12609428*
> idk is that good? Honestly, I picked them up because of CFM... I don't understand what Static Pressure does/is and why its good...


Don't feel bad. I don't fully understand it either. All I know, and this is the short version...

If you are going to place that fan to push or pull air through a fan filter or a radiator, then you want high static pressure from it. If you are only going to move air around an "open" space (as in the inside of your computer case - fan grills offer negligible resistance), then you mainly look at CFM.

From my research, high static pressure fans usually are more expensive all though expensive fans do not always have high static pressure.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX;12609577*
> What do you guys think of these?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835705004&cm_re=panaflo_120mm-_-35-705-004-_-Product


Panflo makes great fans. They also make fans that typically produce a lot of CFM/pressure/*noise*.

If noise is no concern and performance is everything, Delta, Panflo, San Ace - these are the brands of quality fans you should look into. For everyone else who went water cooling cause they thought their computer could run cooler and quieter, stay away from these brands.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

just called in to frozencpu and they informed me that they just got there kit shipment in this morning and it will ship today. called the CS number and a real person picked up...pleasantly surprised!!!!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


What do you guys think of these?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-004-_-Product


Get these and you will no longer hear that fish tank behind you. Guaranteed.


----------



## mbudden

It's not that big of a operation, that's why you get real CS.


----------



## Kahbrohn

No they are not. Ever wonder why everyone who contacts Jab Tech always speaks to "John"???









Welcome to the wonderful world of internet stores.


----------



## mbudden

I prefer small stores over big stores. Not to mention, you can usually find lower prices on stuff in smaller stores since they have to compete with the larger stores.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Get these and you will no longer hear that fish tank behind you. Guaranteed.


thats what I want...


----------



## AMDMAXX

double post...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


thats what I want...










Then get ready to hear World War 2 DC-3's buzzing all around you! This is what you will hear!


----------



## ahhell

Hey guys. I'm about to join your illustrious gang. My Rasa kit (RS240) arrives on Tuesday. It's my first attempt at this whole water cooling thingy so it should be fun.

Hopefully, I don't blowup my machine. lol

Now, off to figure out how to add one of those sweet signatures....hmmm..


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ahhell*


Hey guys. I'm about to join your illustrious gang. My Rasa kit (RS240) arrives on Tuesday. It's my first attempt at this whole water cooling thingy so it should be fun.

Hopefully, I don't blowup my machine. lol

Now, off to figure out how to add one of those sweet signatures....hmmm..


Welcome! Add your system here.

And add the signature here.


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Then get ready to hear World War 2 DC-3's buzzing all around you! This is what you will hear!











I'm ok with that... I have 4 servers with san ace fans at work so I don't really hear the noise anymore... but when I get on vent or something with my friends they tell me to turn my fans down... LOL! I usually just say what fans...?









Honestly, though I don't hear it anymore so its not a worry...

My scythes are running at 1500-1600 RPM which I think is around 35-37 dBA and I think thats quiet... so...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDMAXX*


I'm ok with that... I have 4 servers with san ace fans at work so I don't really hear the noise anymore... but when I get on vent or something with my friends they tell me to turn my fans down... LOL! I usually just say what fans...?









Honestly, though I don't hear it anymore so its not a worry...

My scythes are running at 1500-1600 RPM which I think is around 35-37 dBA and I think thats quiet... so...










Wait a second. You can tune out high fan noise BUT you can't tune out the fish tank??? ROTFLMBO!!!! Now THAT'S what I call selective hearing!

I hear ya though... (no pun intended)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ahhell*


Hey guys. I'm about to join your illustrious gang. My Rasa kit (RS240) arrives on Tuesday. It's my first attempt at this whole water cooling thingy so it should be fun.

Hopefully, I don't blowup my machine. lol

Now, off to figure out how to add one of those sweet signatures....hmmm..


Welcome... but... if you do blow it up...

PICTURES OR IT NEVER HAPPENED!









Just kidding. Just follow the instructions and if in doubt or stuck, ask in this thread that plenty of people will help you out.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12611739*
> Welcome... but... if you do blow it up...
> 
> PICTURES OR IT NEVER HAPPENED!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kidding. Just follow the instructions and if in doubt or stuck, ask in this thread that plenty of people will help you out.


What instructions??!? I only remember seeing a RASA instructions...


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12611796*
> What instructions??!? I only remember seeing a RASA instructions...


I didn't see him say anything about instructions?


----------



## nden

Now, I can officially join the club


























































































Is it too many photos? I can get rid of some.


----------



## ahhell

Wow...nice job Nden.

Man that RX360 is massive!! lol.


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12612146*
> Wow...nice job Nden.
> 
> Man that RX360 is massive!! lol.


Thanks.

RX360 is massive and the case is freaking heavy...


----------



## MorbEIn

Nden, nice setup mate, I just ordered my 800D, just felt i have to because my FT02 is just too cramped up...

How do you have your airflow? the rads on top, push outside the case? or pull?

I'm just looking or ideas on how i will setup my 800D up when it gets here







thanks


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12612517*
> Nden, nice setup mate, I just ordered my 800D, just felt i have to because my FT02 is just too cramped up...
> 
> How do you have your airflow? the rads on top, push outside the case? or pull?
> 
> I'm just looking or ideas on how i will setup my 800D up when it gets here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Thanks,

3 fans pushing air out (or saying Pulling air out) inside the case. I don't know pushing or pulling is correct word here. I also have the back fan pulling air from outside into the case.

One word of advise for this case is *REMOVE* the back CPU plate cover. By removing this cover, my temp drop like 10ºC on load.

Good luck with the new case


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12612763*
> Thanks,
> 
> 3 fans pushing air out (or saying Pulling air out) inside the case. I don't know pushing or pulling is correct word here. I also have the back fan pulling air from outside into the case.
> 
> One word of advise for this case is *REMOVE* the back CPU plate cover. By removing this cover, my temp drop like 10ºC on load.
> 
> Good luck with the new case


Really? so the 'warm' air from the front fan HDD bay apparently will help with the temps? hmm interesting, i will be getting my one tomorrow ^_^, saturday deliveries... not reliable.. >.>

Edit: I'm thinknig of running my tubes through the back panel...

another question for everybody, long tubing... will that have an effect on anything? or it wont make a difference? im not saying loooong tubing, but enough to run the tubes behind the mobo tray...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12611796*
> What instructions??!? I only remember seeing a RASA instructions...


Well there you go then... instructions! Hehehehe... Yeah yeah yeah... ok... so instructions were like... almost non-existent? BUT... we are still here to help him out, right? RIGHT???

Don't mind me. It's Friday... tomorrow is my birthday... AND I'LL BE FRIGGIN 50! Man those mushrooms I did back in the 1970's are catching up with me!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12611839*
> I didn't see him say anything about instructions?


He was saying follow the instructions, but the kits don't have assembly instructions.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

So I posted a question in OCN Water Cooling Club..
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/584302-ocn-water-cooling-club-picture-gallery-872.html#post12611886


----------



## mbudden

I don't see why you're going to buy the majority of the kit but not buy the kit? And why would you replace the block? It's one of the best WB's you can buy?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12612930*
> Well there you go then... instructions! Hehehehe... Yeah yeah yeah... ok... so instructions were like... almost non-existent? BUT... we are still here to help him out, right? RIGHT???
> 
> Don't mind me. It's Friday... tomorrow is my birthday... AND I'LL BE FRIGGIN 50! Man those mushrooms I did back in the 1970's are catching up with me!


Happy Birthday!!


----------



## ahhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12613627*
> He was saying follow the instructions, but the kits don't have assembly instructions.


Instructions? What are those?

I'm SMRT so I should be able to figure it out.

Famous last words.....


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12612930*
> Well there you go then... instructions! Hehehehe... Yeah yeah yeah... ok... so instructions were like... almost non-existent? BUT... we are still here to help him out, right? RIGHT???
> 
> Don't mind me. It's Friday... tomorrow is my birthday... AND I'LL BE FRIGGIN 50! Man those mushrooms I did back in the 1970's are catching up with me!


HAPPY B-DAY Tomorrow,HeHe


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12612930*
> Don't mind me. It's Friday... tomorrow is my birthday... AND I'LL BE FRIGGIN 50! Man those mushrooms I did back in the 1970's are catching up with me!


Hey man, if I don't see you on the forums tomorrow. Happy Birthday and don't party too hard. Enjoy a cold one for me.















(that's if you drink lol)


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12613727*
> I don't see why you're going to buy the majority of the kit but not buy the kit? And why would you replace the block? It's one of the best WB's you can buy?











http://www.pureoverclock.com/article1013.html

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=253470


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12613840*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pureoverclock.com/article1013.html
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=253470


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/749693-review-22-cpu-waterblocks-tested-roundup.html#post9603399


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12613885*
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/749693-review-22-cpu-waterblocks-tested-roundup.html#post9603399


I knew it was on here too, I just couldn't find it. You should put the in the OP.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12613899*
> I knew it was on here too, I just couldn't find it. You should put the in the OP.


Was that to back me up? Or was that to say that it wasn't? LOL.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12613915*
> Was that to back me up? Or was that to say that it wasn't? LOL.
> ><


Backing you up! Your link is the same test as my second one just on ONC and not that other one forum


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12613829*
> Hey man, if I don't see you on the forums tomorrow. Happy Birthday and don't party too hard. Enjoy a cold one for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (that's if you drink lol)


Thanks man... already started to celebrate... and yes, I do drink all though I am a very moderate drinker. Will be staying home with the family... have a nice bbq planned... oh yeah... gonna be a great day!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12613797*
> HAPPY B-DAY Tomorrow,HeHe


Thanks man...

Wife got ma a MCP655 for my b-day!!! Heee-haaaa.... hehehehe. Hell yeah I'll take it... oh wait... doesn't that mean I'm paying for it anyways??? Heheheh. The thought is what counts!


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12613727*
> I don't see why you're going to buy the majority of the kit but not buy the kit? And why would you replace the block? It's one of the best WB's you can buy?


Ok, say I keep the block.. I still need to replace the fans, fittings and tubing with the addition of adding a fill/drain.

which is cheaper (by a little) at $349.45


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12614143*
> Ok, say I keep the block.. I still need to replace the fans, fittings and tubing with the addition of adding a fill/drain.
> 
> which is cheaper (by a little) at $349.45


You don't need to replace anything to start


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12614064*
> Thanks man...
> 
> Wife got ma a MCP655 for my b-day!!! Heee-haaaa.... hehehehe. Hell yeah I'll take it... oh wait... doesn't that mean I'm paying for it anyways??? Heheheh. The thought is what counts!


Sweet gift. Happy Birthday! Nothing beats celebrating a bday in the Caribbean


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12614143*
> Ok, say I keep the block.. I still need to replace the fans, fittings and tubing with the addition of adding a fill/drain.
> 
> which is cheaper (by a little) at $349.45


You might was to also consider shipping costs, more so if you're purchasing from more than one store. Keep in mind, Crazy PC has the RX360 kit for $179.99 right now. Add the upgrade parts, and it may be cheaper than you think.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

WOOT!!! got my email saying that my kit has shipped!!!!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12614177*
> Sweet gift. Happy Birthday! Nothing beats celebrating a bday in the Caribbean


Thanks amigo... Tomorrow should be nice and sunny!!!


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12614169*
> You don't need to replace anything to start


I want better/quieter fans
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12614194*
> You might was to also consider shipping costs, more so if you're purchasing from more than one store. Keep in mind, Crazy PC has the RX360 kit for $179.99 right now. Add the upgrade parts, and it may be cheaper than you think.


Yeah, that's one of the only places I've been able to find the RX kit.. I've taken shipping into consideration and if one place had everything I want/need, that would be awesome but that doesnt seem to be the case.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12613964*
> Backing you up! Your link is the same test as my second one just on ONC and not that other one forum


Okay, I was like " >< why isn't he on my side!!







"








But I will need to add that to the FAQ though. Thanks for the links








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12614034*
> Thanks man... already started to celebrate... and yes, I do drink all though I am a very moderate drinker. Will be staying home with the family... have a nice bbq planned... oh yeah... gonna be a great day!


Hah, sounds good to me man! Nothing like family, a beer and some BBQ. Oh & that post about the pump lol. Made me laugh








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12614143*
> Ok, say I keep the block.. I still need to replace the fans, fittings and tubing with the addition of adding a fill/drain.
> 
> which is cheaper (by a little) at $349.45


Do you have to replace them with AP-15's? You could always get yourself some Yates. Not to mention, you're buying fittings for appearance, not performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12614169*
> You don't need to replace anything to start


But some people want to make their kit look uber fancy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12614194*
> You might was to also consider shipping costs, more so if you're purchasing from more than one store. Keep in mind, Crazy PC has the RX360 kit for $179.99 right now. Add the upgrade parts, and it may be cheaper than you think.


You have a good point about the shipping. The fans alone cost him 50$.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12614200*
> WOOT!!! got my email saying that my kit has shipped!!!!










congrats.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12614298*
> but some people want to make their kit look uber fancy.


I know but like I said you don't *Need* anything to get started:thumb: And you talking to a guy thats using ap-15's on my RX360 and im adding a RX120 because I can


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12614298*
> Do you have to replace them with AP-15's? You could always get yourself some Yates. Not to mention, you're buying fittings for appearance, not performance.
> 
> But some people want to make their kit look uber fancy


Well, I dont have to replace them with AP-15's. Are there some that I should also consider, such as the Yates? Similar price/performance?

And as far as making my kit look "uber fancy" and the fittings not being for performance, I would just rather get everything all in one whack than get the kit installed.. tear it apart a couple weeks later, and again.. seems tedious to me when I could've gotten it all done at once. And yeah, I should just get some of these, eh?


----------



## mbudden

Let's not be an ass.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12614477*
> Let's not be an ass.


Sorry.

I understand that you're trying to help and save me money but it kinda felt like you were poking fun.


----------



## ahhell

You certainly wouldnt have any leaks with a bunch of those in the case. Lol.

It would look pretty McGyver'ed up too.

Hmm.......


----------



## The Sandman

Add me please!

Here's a couple pics of the rig.

Also about that brownish/greenish tubing issue, I tore mine apart last night (30 days old and yes this was with Primochill tubing) and did a complete removal thinking I must have missed something either with the original flush or installation. I had already ordered/received more tubing (Primochill again) and some rotary 45's to remedy this issue. After tearing EVERYTHING apart all I found is in the second pic. I only run distilled water and a kill coil. The water was put into a glass container and was absolutely clear and clean, no discoloration, nothing. Both the Res and Radiator were also clean. I can not begin to explain how happy I was to have already received more of this most impressive tubing for $2.25 a foot that I can change again in another 30 days! There has got to be a better way. This crap sucks!


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12614294*
> I want better/quieter fans
> 
> Yeah, that's one of the only places I've been able to find the RX kit.. I've taken shipping into consideration and if one place had everything I want/need, that would be awesome but th doesnt seem to be the case.


You do know that the fans that come with it move more air and make less noise than the ap-15's right?


----------



## Kick

u do know that amazon has 10 feet of primochill for 16.25 right?

edit: also micro, i cannot agree with you. the noise AP-15s emits is different compared to the ones that come with the kit.


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12615355*
> u do know that amazon has 10 feet of primochill for 16.25 right?
> 
> edit: also micro, i cannot agree with you. the noise AP-15s emits is different compared to the ones that come with the kit.


if we go purely by the numbers... they are both 28ish and the stock fans move about 15cfm more.


----------



## Kick

numbers mean nothing- every company measures them differently. there's no standard. it can be all fake for all we know. just fyi.

have you heard a GT fan? itd be fair to compare the stock fans with yate loons. and you cannot compare the sound GTs have with yate loons. ( i have all three, stock fans, gt's, and yate loons. )

by far, the GT's are quieter.


----------



## microman

just because the sound is different doesnt mean its any less silent....


----------



## Kick

how are you making your assumptions? by comparing "numbers?" i can tell you, it sounds better because of the sounds it emits. nothing like a normal fan- not as intruding and unpleasant.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12615336*
> You do know that the fans that come with it move more air and make less noise than the ap-15's right?


You're joking right. I ran the stock ones, replaced with some Gelid Silent 12's PMW's, they moved about the same amount of air but made less noise. Then replaced those with AP-15's. If I turn my 4 AP-15's to 100% they are much less noise than the 2 stock fans at 50% and move way more air. The stock fans are average fans nothing more nothing less.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12615548*
> You're joking right. I ran the stock ones, replaced with some Gelid Silent 12's PMW's, they moved about the same amount of air but made less noise. Then replaced those with AP-15's. If I turn my 4 AP-15's to 100% they are much less noise than the 2 stock fans at 50% and move way more air. The stock fans are average fans nothing more nothing less.


He's relying on the numbers that companies give for fans, not personal experience.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12615321*
> Add me please!
> 
> Here's a couple pics of the rig.
> 
> Also about that brownish/greenish tubing issue, I tore mine apart last night (30 days old and yes this was with Primochill tubing) and did a complete removal thinking I must have missed something either with the original flush or installation. I had already ordered/received more tubing (Primochill again) and some rotary 45's to remedy this issue. After tearing EVERYTHING apart all I found is in the second pic. I only run distilled water and a kill coil. The water was put into a glass container and was absolutely clear and clean, no discoloration, nothing. Both the Res and Radiator were also clean. I can not begin to explain how happy I was to have already received more of this most impressive tubing for $2.25 a foot that I can change again in another 30 days! There has got to be a better way. This crap sucks!


lol that SUCKS! Most impressive tubing lol. Ok, ok.. I have to admit, I kinda like the way that block looks mounted on an AMD board. Also, do you use that danger den fill port for drain and fill? if so, how's that work for you? I have to remember that the primary application for the whole loop is performance not necessarily aesthetics.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12615573*
> He's relying on the numbers that companies give for fans, not personal experience.


Well I can make a video to educate him or anyone that thinks the same. I have stock fans, the Gelid, AP-15's, plus a few others.


----------



## microman

nah you're right i have no clue what i am talking about... i dunno why i ever thought i did.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12615683*
> nah you're right i have no clue what i am talking about... i dunno why i ever thought i did.


/sarcasm.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12615683*
> nah you're right i have no clue what i am talking about... i dunno why i ever thought i did.


Read this thread, it might not have the stock fans but you will see the rated numbers mean nothing.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/859483-round-6-fan-testing-working-thread.html


----------



## microman

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bhudtc2dTG8[/ame] yeah that sounds really enjoyable....


----------



## Kick

yeah and notice how it's right next to the fan. a mounted fan sounds completely different.

idk if youre sarcastic or not, but that isnt even that loud.

if you think the stock fans are quieter, you must be deaf.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12615743*
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bhudtc2dTG8 yeah that sounds really enjoyable....


OK I'll make the vid, it might take all night to upload, but I'll post it.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12615743*
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bhudtc2dTG8 yeah that sounds really enjoyable....


[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPpD1k1iSVc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPpD1k1iSVc"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPpD1k1iSVc[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12615868*
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPpD1k1iSVc


Forgot about that video. That is what i used to base my purchase of GT's from.


----------



## nugget toes

I'll be getting a couple GT AP-29's (3K rpm) tomorrow. Any one have these to attest to performance? I have a fan controller so I'll run them 50%.


----------



## GoodInk

Rasa kit fan vs. AP-15 noise comparison. Fans were daisy chained off the same molex connector.

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnIoesavWFg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnIoesavWFg"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnIoesavWFg[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12615619*
> lol that SUCKS! Most impressive tubing lol. Ok, ok.. I have to admit, I kinda like the way that block looks mounted on an AMD board. Also, do you use that danger den fill port for drain and fill? if so, how's that work for you? I have to remember that the primary application for the whole loop is performance not necessarily aesthetics.


I wish I could say I haven't used it yet, it's only a month old lol. But as you saw that isn't the case. I installed that as a drain. When looking into this system and at other peoples rigs I wondered "how the heck they drain that and not risk getting all their components wet?" I think a lot of guys may not think that far ahead or something lol. Glad as hell I did. I fill it via the reservoir, works nice. I really can't imagine not having a drain and having to drag my machine into the bath tub or something. Also didn't want to spend the big bucks for quick release fittings as I can only guess that would be an alternative method, but it'll put another dent in your wallet. You need to save that case to buy more of this really great tubing lol.


----------



## Dissentience

Irony at its finest: I had taken the dust filters off my rad fans to see if I got better temps, and I did. So I planned on just putting the metal grilles back on the fans to protect the blades. I went to shut down the computer to remount the fans with the grilles on, and when I reached around the back of the rad, I put my finger in one of the fans and broke a blade off









The only other 120mm fan I have laying around is an 800rpm fan, so I have that installed along side the surviving stock fan. I have taken my overclock off and enabled cool n quiet just in case. Temps are fine under Prime95 though. Looks like I'll be getting new fans sooner than I thought. Are Yate Loon High Speeds comparable to AP-15s in static pressure? I'm not concerned with noise at this time.


----------



## Havoknova

Let the build BEGIN!!!!!!!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12616897*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Irony at its finest: I had taken the dust filters off my rad fans to see if I got better temps, and I did. So I planned on just putting the metal grilles back on the fans to protect the blades. I went to shut down the computer to remount the fans with the grilles on, and when I reached around the back of the rad, I put my finger in one of the fans and broke a blade off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only other 120mm fan I have laying around is an 800rpm fan, so I have that installed along side the surviving stock fan. I have taken my overclock off and enabled cool n quiet just in case. Temps are fine under Prime95 though. Looks like I'll be getting new fans sooner than I thought. Are Yate Loon High Speeds comparable to AP-15s in static pressure? I'm not concerned with noise at this time.


I have the YL HS's on my rad (3 of them) in a pull config. At 100% they are noisy in my book. I have them connected to the mobo fan headers and at a duty rate of 70% and they are fairly quiet. When I place my hand on the back side of the rad (where no fans are installed), you can feel the air being pulled through your fingers, into the rad fins and so forth.

For a $3.60 fix, they certainly get the job done and are great. I am sure they will never compare to the AP-15's but in the meantime, a good cheap option. I basically bought them until the AP-15's were restocked at my favorite on-line store but I just might wait a bit longer for them now. They will not go to waste once I buy my AP-15's. They make excellent case fans as well.

Also, YL's take Krylon paint rather nicely. The fins are not "smooth". They are somewhat textured so paint adheres to it nicely. I painted the fins on some 120 x 20MM and they look nice! I use them as top exhaust fans on my case. They move air nicely as well.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoknova;12619314*
> let the build begin!!!!!!!


pix!!!


----------



## Havoknova

my old rig before i took it apart =)

and my work area / living room wahahaha

btw my sister cant even go outside from the front door coz of all the stuff thats laying around..wahahha she needs to use the back door to go out lolz...

more pix to come =)


----------



## Kahbrohn

4 gallons of water???


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12616407*
> Rasa kit fan vs. AP-15 noise comparison. Fans were daisy chained off the same molex connector.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnIoesavWFg


This is why I don't use the GT, I much prefer the lower pitch sound of the stock fans than the mosquito whine of the GTs. I paired my three stock fans with Scythe SFF-21F and system is super quite, with a nice low pitch sound yet pushes through lots of air.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12619859*
> 4 gallons of water???


wahahah you know it...well 1 of the gallon will be just cleaning up the 2 rads i got and the other 2 will be for the loop and the rest will be stock for emergency use...u know just being prepared in the word "JUST IN CASE"

wahahah...more pix to come cleaning the rads right now...


----------



## mbudden




----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12620173*
> Geeze. Topics change so fast in here ><


Hey did you hear about the Toronto Maple Leafs? They only need to win 12 out of the upcoming 17 games to get in the playoffs!


----------



## Havoknova

ok got update....

clean my rad with hot water (distilled + vinegar) result is in the first pic...

clean ur rad coz if not ull be running those alien stuff on ur loop =)

second stock mobo cooler

and third pic is koolance full cover block....

more to come...


----------



## ahhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12620794*
> ok got update....
> 
> clean my rad with hot water (distilled + vinegar) result is in the first pic...
> 
> clean ur rad coz if not ull be running those alien stuff on ur loop =)
> 
> second stock mobo cooler
> 
> and third pic is koolance full cover block....
> 
> more to come...


Word of advice. Having your components sitting on a couch isn't real good for preventing damage from static electicity. At least have them sit on an antistatic bag (or even the original boxes).

Did all that crud come from a brand new rad?!?!?!?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12621090*
> Word of advice. Having your components sitting on a couch isn't real good for preventing damage from static electicity. At least have them sit on an antistatic bag (or even the original boxes).
> 
> Did all that crud come from a brand new rad?!?!?!?


I've rolled mine around on the floor and I never experienced any problems? I even built up my rig on the carpet.


----------



## ezveedub

Static is only an issue in certain areas. Here in Florida, only cold dry winter time and carpet is when you have to worry about it.


----------



## hot120

Honestly, you don't even need clamps if you run 7/16 ID tubing over 1/2 OD barbs. I installed my tubing and tried to pull it off the barb, and it would not budge. The tubing creates a tight seal around the barb.

Also, the AP-15's are much quieter than the stock fans. There is no other conclusion.

My Primochill clear tubing also discolored after a month of use. Replaced it with Primochill UV Blue. When I installed the blue tubing, I soaked it in hot water for 30 minutes to get rid of any contaminants, then flushed it with distilled water prior to install. Maybe this will prevent the discoloration that occurred with my clear tubing.

Clean out your rads with hot water and distilled water. Then flush them out with at least half a gallon of distilled water.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12614463*
> Well, I don't have to replace them with AP-15's. Are there some that I should also consider, such as the Yates? Similar price/performance?
> 
> I wonder why most of you are installing the rad with the fittings toward the rear of the case? That makes for a longer run of tubing.
> 
> And as far as making my kit look "uber fancy" and the fittings not being for performance, I would just rather get everything all in one whack than get the kit installed.. tear it apart a couple weeks later, and again.. seems tedious to me when I could've gotten it all done at once. And yeah, I should just get some of these, eh?


----------



## Havoknova

ok guys on my rasa block i just use the intel bolts (black bolts)

used a little bit of force to put it in the back plate..it will be easy to bolt it on on the second try...its like retreading i guess...but it works...

pressure wise i went and did 3 grove on each side...

its getting sexier every minute!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12621090*
> Word of advice. Having your components sitting on a couch isn't real good for preventing damage from static electicity. At least have them sit on an antistatic bag (or even the original boxes).
> 
> Did all that crud come from a brand new rad?!?!?!?


yes those dirt came from the 2 rad....not so much on the ek 240 rad but on the rs360 theres alot of dirt came out of the beast..lolz..

about the static stuff....here in florida not so much on the static side..did that kind of building 3 times and no static charge happen...probably its too hot to build any static in this state lolz....

more update to come...


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Dang, I like the looks of that full chipset cooler. Not as much as the stock one but that tiny little fan is annoying as all hell and it doesnt seem to do much good. I might look into that since my NB is around 50c just at an idle


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ok... got bored. Looked at the color scheme of my Jeep. Gold & black. Decided it was time to test and I came up with this (which I like and will continue to finish!):


----------



## mbudden

I really like that, and once again. Happy Birthday.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12624441*
> I really like that, and once again. Happy Birthday.


Thanks on both counts...

I did too. Didn't even think abut it until I was washing the Jeep and realized that Gold and black look nice together... so I took that front panel off to give it a whirl. Liked the results so I will take the top panel and paint it as well. Rest of case will remain black.

Interior will be all hammered black except for the mobo tray and the hdd rack which will be gold hammered. Then... I will be adding some accent lighting (red LED's or EL tape) under the outer edges of the mobo tray to see how that goes.


----------



## SadistBlinx

I installed my XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 into my sig rig but instead of using the 240mmrad i had to use a RS120 rad as i couldn't get the 240mm inside my case or work out the back mounting bracket (Lol).
I'm not overclock just running [email protected] Room temp is 26c my highest core temp is 48c-50c Is this normal?
As this is my first loop im not 100% sure.
Also how full should my Res be? i have around 1cm gap on the top where air is.


----------



## Havoknova

finish doin the cables

now time for some leak testing =)

btw my pump is 1 badazz silent beast..lolz

(crossfinger nothing happen) =|

whats the safest leak test time??

6-12 hours??


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;12624843*
> I installed my XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 into my sig rig but instead of using the 240mmrad i had to use a RS120 rad as i couldn't get the 240mm inside my case or work out the back mounting bracket (Lol).
> I'm not overclock just running [email protected] Room temp is 26c my highest core temp is 48c-50c Is this normal?
> As this is my first loop im not 100% sure.
> Also how full should my Res be? i have around 1cm gap on the top where air is.


As long as the inlet of your pump is under water you are fine.

If you can find a way to get that 240mm rad into your loop (mount on the back of the case like mine?), then you will see much better cooling performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12624895*
> finish doin the cables
> 
> now time for some leak testing =)
> 
> btw my pump is 1 badazz silent beast..lolz
> 
> (crossfinger nothing happen) =|
> 
> whats the safest leak test time??
> 
> 6-12 hours??


I would say 6-8 hours is fine.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12622836*
> Dang, I like the looks of that full chipset cooler. Not as much as the stock one but that tiny little fan is annoying as all hell and it doesnt seem to do much good. I might look into that since my NB is around 50c just at an idle


well mine i reseat my stock cooler with new tim and it went down from 50 idle to 42 sometimes lower than that...but now hopefully it will go down a bit more...i disassemble the stock cooler to get the emblem out...that fan is just attach on in a small skinny board...wahahha

ill tell u if i got some temp diff on it...


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12624913*
> If you can find a way to get that 240mm rad into your loop (mount on the back of the case like mine?), then you will see much better cooling performance.


Do you have any build log or pictures to show how to mount onto the back of your case (i couldn't work it out, was trying to for 3 hours haha)


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;12624843*
> I installed my XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 into my sig rig but instead of using the 240mmrad i had to use a RS120 rad as i couldn't get the 240mm inside my case or work out the back mounting bracket (Lol).
> I'm not overclock just running [email protected] Room temp is 26c my highest core temp is 48c-50c Is this normal?
> As this is my first loop im not 100% sure.
> Also how full should my Res be? i have around 1cm gap on the top where air is.
> 
> *snip*


temp is fine.
to fit the rad, u can mount it on top of the case but have to do some modding.

i have a rs360 in the top right now

pretty sure an rx240 can fit up top but with fans in pull.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12624913*
> As long as the inlet of your pump is under water you are fine.
> 
> If you can find a way to get that 240mm rad into your loop (mount on the back of the case like mine?), then you will see much better cooling performance.
> 
> I would say 6-8 hours is fine.


ok thanks...now time to play on my laptop and wait for 6-8 hours lolz...


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12625000*
> ok thanks...now time to play on my laptop and wait for 6-8 hours lolz...


u can wait or just go for it.

first time i ran my loop for a few days...because i was waiting for new parts to come, but second time, i just watched it for an hour or so and just started the rig.

i just wrapped paper towels on the fittings incase.


----------



## SadistBlinx

Yeh i thought about doing some cutting but as i'm using a M-atx mobo now (asus Rampage 3 Gene) i was considering changing cases and i didn't want to damage this one as i will re use it for another build or resell it. Is the RS240 performance that bad to the RX240? as i believe i could mount one of them on the inside of my case where the top 200mm fan is.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12624988*
> temp is fine.
> to fit the rad, u can mount it on top of the case but have to do some modding.
> 
> i have a rs360 in the top right now
> 
> pretty sure an rx240 can fit up top but with fans in pull.


Here is the only pic I have right now. Excuse the cable management, I'm waiting on a new PSU.


----------



## Kick

rs240 is fine. i used that before.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12625000*
> ok thanks...now time to play on my laptop and wait for 6-8 hours lolz...


I leak lasted about an hour, Before I started up my pc







Thats all I could wait







I did keep an eye on it for 5 or 6 hours


----------



## ahhell

I'm getting antsy now. My first kit is in my city somewhere...just waiting on delivery.

i hate waiting!!!!


----------



## microman

does everybody leak test?? i figured that was for the first time you try watercooling then you never did it again?


----------



## mbudden

I didn't lol.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12625552*
> does everybody leak test?? i figured that was for the first time you try watercooling then you never did it again?


We are talking about when we first put are kits together







I alway keep an eye on it just to make sure


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12625605*
> We are talking about when we first put are kits together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I alway keep an eye on it just to make sure


so if you pulled the loop apart and put it back in you wouldnt do it again then right?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12625640*
> so if you pulled the loop apart and put it back in you wouldnt do it again then right?


Yes you should leak test it every time you pull it a part







If you pulled it a part and put it back together it can leak.


----------



## microman

thats what i was getting at... i like mbudden dont leak test, seems to me if you do it right the first time what is there to worry about.


----------



## Flying Donkey

would the pump included in the res work with the CPU block+GTX570 block?
like would it struggle?


----------



## nden

Hi, I'm thinking replacing the tubing and fittings for my RX360 kit. Here is what I've chosen:

- PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall - Black
- Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting

Will this 1/2" ID perform better then the kit tubing? Thanks


----------



## Kick

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Black-Tubing-2in-4in/dp/B0041LVQIE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1299376817&sr=8-9]Amazon.com: PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing -1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD (10ft pack): Electronics[/URL]

it will, but not to a point where it makes a difference/


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12625899*
> Amazon.com: PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing -1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD (10ft pack): Electronics
> 
> it will, but not to a point where it makes a difference/


I'm living in Canada. Amazon.com won't work for me... Ehh?







Thanks


----------



## ahhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12625996*
> I'm living in Canada. Amazon.com won't work for me... Ehh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Hey fellow Canadian. You should check out these guys: http://www.dazmode.com/

I ordered all my stuff from them.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12625786*
> thats what i was getting at... i like mbudden dont leak test, seems to me if you do it right the first time what is there to worry about.


Have fun with that







By leak test I mean check it for an hour, It will save you money in parts in the long run


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12626128*
> Hey fellow Canadian. You should check out these guys: http://www.dazmode.com/
> 
> I ordered all my stuff from them.


Daz doesn't have the black tubing that I wanted.


----------



## ahhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12626198*
> Daz doesn't have the black tubing that I wanted.


Ah..bummer.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12626198*
> Daz doesn't have the black tubing that I wanted.


You can't go wrong with Feser tubing. No discoloration at all. Great quality tubing from Dazmode.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12626294*
> Ah..bummer.


Here is black UV tubing from Dazmode:

http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82_84&products_id=588


----------



## Havoknova

ok heres the unfinish build...im tired already need to take a break and continue tomorrow...

but for now this is what i got ....on 4.0ghz...75f ambient temp...cpu idle temp at 30-32c...nb and sb last time is 40-50+..now nb=33 sb=30....

time to put it to the test time to prime this baby... =)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12625552*
> does everybody leak test?? i figured that was for the first time you try watercooling then you never did it again?


Only on my first WC try and that was for about an hour. Now that I understand the concept and mechanics of it all... nahhhh. Big trick would be to use tubing with an ID that is the next size down from the OD size of the barb.

When I do move over to compression fitting later on this year I will probably do a 1-2 hour leak test then since I would be working with something new... but other than that, I trust myself.


----------



## Kahbrohn

(Copy Paste from Crazy-PC's closeout page- HAF 932 Black case- shipping from the continental US)

Ship to: Guaynabo 00969 PR
- *UPS Ground ($115.59)* *<--- I want to see this!!! I mean, there is even a "calculated" rate with UPS for this service!!!*
- UPS 2nd Day Air ($180.14)
- UPS Next Day Air ($244.94)
- US MILITARY APO/FPO *ONLY* ($81.00)


----------



## mbudden

That's so disappointing...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


(Copy Paste from Crazy-PC's closeout page- HAF 932 Black case- shipping from the continental US)

Ship to: Guaynabo 00969 PR
- *UPS Ground ($115.59)* *<--- I want to see this!!! I mean, there is even a "calculated" rate with UPS for this service!!!*
- UPS 2nd Day Air ($180.14)
- UPS Next Day Air ($244.94)
- US MILITARY APO/FPO *ONLY* ($81.00)


What about CompUSA? They didn't have it there in PR?


----------



## ahhell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


(Copy Paste from Crazy-PC's closeout page- HAF 932 Black case- shipping from the continental US)

Ship to: Guaynabo 00969 PR
- *UPS Ground ($115.59)* *<--- I want to see this!!! I mean, there is even a "calculated" rate with UPS for this service!!!*
- UPS 2nd Day Air ($180.14)
- UPS Next Day Air ($244.94)
- US MILITARY APO/FPO *ONLY* ($81.00)


Ouch! It would be cheaper to fly to the States, buy the case, then check the case like luggage. lol


----------



## mbudden

And I thought I was getting shafted when I got price quotes on shipping....


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ahhell*


Ouch! It would be cheaper to fly to the States, buy the case, then check the case like luggage. lol


What's funny is the UPS Ground, LOL!! Reminds me of when some foreign co-workers asked me to go to P.R. for work on a project. They said since it was my territory, if I could be there next day, since they would have to fly. I told them I was in Miami and had to do the same thing, fly, and they were surprised........I guess no one looked at a map to see it's an island a 1000 miles away.


----------



## Havoknova

So just want want to compare some temps..on prime95 torture test 6 threads..75f ambient..my highest temp i hit is 48c and in about an hour through the test tge temp went down to 44-45c and stay there for another 2-3 hours..

Is my prime95 setting right?? Torture test with 6threads??or im just surprise of just how low my temp with watercooling??







)


----------



## MorbEIn

I dont really have 6, but my load temps are 41 same torture test as yours ^_^

dont really know if it helped, but its always nice to have something to compare to









Edit: oh and I just bought th 800D, i dont have my FT02 anymore ^_^, the space is just so awesome!

I want to sell my FT02.. but i cant yet >.> because of the rep and all that.. and I'm even thinking of selling it for a very cheap price... I just want to get rid of it cuz it's just taking up space in the flat now.. and the missus is not very happy...


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


So just want want to compare some temps..on prime95 torture test 6 threads..75f ambient..my highest temp i hit is 48c and in about an hour through the test tge temp went down to 44-45c and stay there for another 2-3 hours..

Is my prime95 setting right?? Torture test with 6threads??or im just surprise of just how low my temp with watercooling??







)


Your temp is just about right with your set-up. For comparison, My externally mounted RX360 with 6 fans running just the CPU at 4.0 Ghz 1.5 volts (hot







) at 20 C ambient hits a max 42-43 on Prime 95.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


I dont really have 6, but my load temps are 41 same torture test as yours ^_^

dont really know if it helped, but its always nice to have something to compare to









Edit: oh and I just bought th 800D, i dont have my FT02 anymore ^_^, the space is just so awesome!

I want to sell my FT02.. but i cant yet >.> because of the rep and all that.. and I'm even thinking of selling it for a very cheap price... I just want to get rid of it cuz it's just taking up space in the flat now.. and the missus is not very happy...


wow well that will be big upgrade if it come to cases...nice buy on ur 800D...well i think my temp are fine then....thanks for comparingtemps


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Your temp is just about right with your set-up. For comparison, My externally mounted RX360 with 6 fans running just the CPU at 4.0 Ghz 1.5 volts (hot







) at 20 C ambient hits a max 42-43 on Prime 95.










thanks..just wana know coz its a big difference..seeing a 60-70 load on air and now its only 40+ wahahah...alot more room to overclock it to about4.3 to 4.5 hehehe...let me stablize this for a week and ill be starting my overclock...


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


thanks..just wana know coz its a big difference..seeing a 60-70 load on air and now its only 40+ wahahah...alot more room to overclock it to about4.3 to 4.5 hehehe...let me stablize this for a week and ill be starting my overclock...


That's some good news =D I'll be ordering my kit shortly then

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


thats what i was getting at... i like mbudden dont leak test, seems to me if you do it right the first time what is there to worry about.


One person had a leak coming out of where the pump power cable comes out of the 750 X20 reservoir.

Someone else had a leak coming out of the corner of the radiator (not from the fitting).

Not all leaks are a result from improper installation.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


That's some good news =D I'll be ordering my kit shortly then

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


well watercooling on ur sb and specially ur nb will be a great help on ur overclocking coz i know crosshair IV extreme got some hot nb hehehe...

but temp wise on the cpu it very nice...

good to know ur goin to the right path =)


----------



## mbudden

I don't leak test, but that doesn't mean I unplug everything and run my pump








Leak testing usually is when someone does it outside the case before installation or when someone loads up their case full of napkins and waits and waits around looking for leakage.

I just unplug everything that doesn't need to be plugged in. Run the pump for a minute, if I don't see anything, I plug everything in and I'm good to go.


----------



## Freija

It looks like Jab-Tech is out of stock for the RX360 kit. Does anyone where else has it in stock, that has fair shipping prices to Canada?


----------



## mbudden

What about Daz-Mode? They are located in Canada.


----------



## thrasherht

woo I have pictures. To make the better they were taken under UV, never realized how much of my computer was UV reactive.









First a picture of the light I used. Overkill a bit. It is a full sized 4 foot bulb you put in normal overhead lights. got it at spencers for like 35 dollars, with the light fixture.









here are the real pictures you want.

































































ok picture spam over.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Queue the techno music

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## thrasherht

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*   Queue the techno music

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk  
   
 You Tube  



 
 here we go.

future noize for the win.


----------



## Freija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12633245*
> What about Daz-Mode? They are located in Canada.


Unfortunately their prices are not that great, and I have to pay full tax on all my orders since Daz-Mode is located in the same province as me. He also only ships orders and doesn't allow in-store pickups.
Also, the store is closed for a week.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freija;12633900*
> Unfortunately their prices are not that great, and I have to pay full tax on all my orders since Daz-Mode is located in the same province as me. He also only ships orders and doesn't allow in-store pickups.
> Also, the store is closed for a week.


I only buy from Dazmode. Prices are the same or better than any other online store. You do pay HST but you don't have to pay custom and brokerage fees which can be much much more. Yes he only ships, but shipping costs are very reasonable, especially in Ontario. Overall you'll always come out ahead buying from Dazmode if you're in Canada.


----------



## Annex

My kit should be here by Tuesday









Is there a particular optimal loop order, or does it really matter?


----------



## Kahbrohn

This is as good a thread as any other I guess.

Is there a fan controller I can connect to the mobo CPU PWM that would then have my rad fans connected to it and in turn, these fans would increase/decrease speed based on CPU temp?

Maybe it has been all the rum, but I have not been able to find one for the love of me...


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12634596*
> This is as good a thread as any other I guess.
> 
> Is there a fan controller I can connect to the mobo CPU PWM that would then have my rad fans connected to it and in turn, these fans would increase/decrease speed based on CPU temp?
> 
> Maybe it has been all the rum, but I have not been able to find one for the love of me...


This for voltage controlled fans : http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/6.html and this for PWM controlled fans : http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cables&type_sub=Fan%20Cable%20Adapters&model=AK-CB002


----------



## nden

Damn, my blue LED light suddenly not as bright as first day I installed it. I need the new one... or is there a easy fix?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12634824*
> Damn, my blue LED light suddenly not as bright as first day I installed it. I need the new one... or is there a easy fix?


make sure you aren't running 12v through it. i did that on accident and that LED is now a weird color of blue compared to the other LED.


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12634835*
> make sure you aren't running 12v through it. i did that on accident and that LED is now a weird color of blue compared to the other LED.


It connected to 4 pin molex? Now, I need replacement. damn it.... little thing.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12634859*
> It connected to 4 pin molex? Now, I need replacement. damn it.... little thing.


well make sure the LED is going to the 5v wires on the molex connector.


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12634876*
> well make sure the LED is going to the 5v wires on the molex connector.


Yah, I got mistake when removed the 2 pin molex, accidentally switch those pins... I guess it's gone


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;12634734*
> This for voltage controlled fans : http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/6.html and this for PWM controlled fans : http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cables&type_sub=Fan%20Cable%20Adapters&model=AK-CB002


The Akasa splitter seems to be my answer!!! The only question I would have though... wouldn't placing 3 fans on a single fan header cause a drop in voltage to the fans (hence, making them go slower and lower their top speed)? Or is that what the molex connector is about?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12635013*
> The Akasa splitter seems to be my answer!!! The only question I would have though... wouldn't placing 3 fans on a single fan header cause a drop in voltage to the fans (hence, making them go slower and lower their top speed)? Or is that what the molex connector is about?


it only controls the fan speeds with the header, the power comes from the molex.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12635041*
> it only controls the fan speeds with the header, the power comes from the molex.


Well all right then! That seems like my ticket then. thanks guys... + rep to you both!


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12635086*
> Well all right then! That seems like my ticket then. thanks guys... + rep to you both!


Just to make sure, you are planning to use 4-pin fans with Akasa splitter ? If you are using 3-pin fans then Sunbeam controller is what you need.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;12635172*
> Just to make sure, you are planning to use 4-pin fans with Akasa splitter ? If you are using 3-pin fans then Sunbeam controller is what you need.


3-pin fans. So the splitter won't work then? I have the fans connected directly to 3 different fan headers (4-pin headers) and I can control the speed through the BIOS or mobo fan controller software just fine.

I like the Sunbeam controller but will require a separate software to set the fan speeds then (to read the RPM's).

EDIT - Ok... found a decent description on the Sunbeam controller...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12635571*
> 3-pin fans. So the splitter won't work then? I have the fans connected directly to 3 different fan headers (4-pin headers) and I can control the speed through the BIOS or mobo fan controller software just fine.
> 
> I like the Sunbeam controller but will require a separate software to set the fan speeds then (to read the RPM's).
> 
> EDIT - Ok... found a decent description on the Sunbeam controller...


No, the Sunbeamtech controller uses the Mobo CPU PWM header port to control the fan speeds via bios settings. That's what I currently use. There's also a 3 channel version also. You can use the PWM speeds or manually adjust them via the little push button on each knob.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12635571*
> 3-pin fans. So the splitter won't work then? I have the fans connected directly to 3 different fan headers (4-pin headers) and I can control the speed through the BIOS or mobo fan controller software just fine.
> 
> I like the Sunbeam controller but will require a separate software to set the fan speeds then (to read the RPM's).
> 
> EDIT - Ok... found a decent description on the Sunbeam controller...


Splitter can only adjust speeds with 4-pin fans since 12 V to fans is coming from Molex connector, speed is controlled by that fourth pin .


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;12635884*
> Splitter can only adjust speeds with 4-pin fans since 12 V to fans is coming from Molex connector, speed is controlled by that fourth pin .


Now I understand. Thanks.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Anyone have any objections to a Lamptron FC5?


----------



## mbudden

I'm not one for screens or anything. I just want a knob I can turn up or down depends on what I want. But I have heard nothing but good things about Lamptron products.


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12639268*
> Anyone have any objections to a Lamptron FC5?


Go for it. RPM monitor and what not comes pretty handy.
I'd rather have a screen than 6 bright LEDs


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Cool, thanks. I've decided to get the kit, I don't really need the EK block or any of that other stuff. Maybe some good fans and I'll be good, I'm tired of listening to this leaf blower


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Sorry for the double post but why on earth is crazy pc so much cheaper?

Lamptron FC5


----------



## mbudden

Because CrazyPC is going out of business.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Only issues I've read with the FC5 is narrow viewing angle and inaccurate temperature sensors. Read more

I have a Scythe Kaze Master that works reasonably well. Cheaper than an FC5 but the 30W per channel is definitely helpful for massive amounts of fans in push/pull.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Alright, so I just ordered:
XSPC Rasa RX360 kit, Shin-Etsu X23-7783D, Lamptron FC5v2, Danger Den fill port, a plastic T and a kill coil. Do you think 1g will be enough to reseat my NB/SB as well as my rasa block?


----------



## nicksasa

Going to order some more stuff. Not sure if I want the gpu block or 3 new fans.

1x Enzotech BCC9 RAM heatsinks (8 stuks) 
2x Bitspower G1/4 Silver Shining 1/2 Fitting Real Hi-Flow
1x XSPC Rasa GPU Universal Block
8x Slangklem 12MM - 20MM (7/16 - 1/2) RVS Zilver
1x Feser Tube UV - HighFlow - 1/2 ID - 3/4 OD - BLACK 2.5M Pack

And my loop will be pump->rad->cpu->gpu->res

Does anyone have an review on the rasa gpu block ? I saw an user with the same non reference card and he said the rasa gpu block fitted. (There are no full cover blocks for this non reference ...)


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12640272*
> Alright, so I just ordered:
> XSPC Rasa RX360 kit, Shin-Etsu X23-7783D, Lamptron FC5v2, Danger Den fill port, a plastic T and a kill coil. Do you think 1g will be enough to reseat my NB/SB as well as my rasa block?


If you manage to use even 1/4 of that you've used too much. I get .3g shin etsu syringes from work and I still had some left over doing my GPU/CPU block. I've done the CPU block twice now too.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Haha good to know. =P better to have too much

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

So i know the pumps are not the greatest in the rasa kit, I'm curious if the stock rasa rs240 kits pump will be enough for a, RS240, CPU, GPU, RX240, ResPump Loop... And if not what pump will fit in the res


----------



## mbudden

Of course, RAD's aren't restrictive, WB's are. I'm running a GPU & CPU in my loop. All good here.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12644824*
> So i know the pumps are not the greatest in the rasa kit, I'm curious if the stock rasa rs240 kits pump will be enough for a, RS240, CPU, GPU, RX240, ResPump Loop... And if not what pump will fit in the res


Yes,No problem.I added to my kit,With an additional 120mm Rad. and a full coverage motherboard water block.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

My kit arrives friday....cant wait. my 570 arrives Wednesday so much WIN!!!!


----------



## alchemik

Hey I just had a few quick questions, any help would be appreciate . I was thinking about getting the RS360 kit and was wondering the only thing I need to get is distilled water and a silver coil correct?

I only plan to do a CPU loop, no expanding to GPU or MoBo, so no point in getting the RX?

How long would it take to set this up? A couple of hours, or the better part of a day/weekend?

What is the risk factor? Since I'd be setting it up anything that could go wrong would be my fault, but how likely is it that you could mess this up.

Last but not least, what is the warranty like? Is it only for parts that break? or do the cover for parts that may get fried by leaks. I know my H50 covers for leaks, but it's a premade closed loop and have only been a hand full of cases.


----------



## AMOCO

To the 1st question:
Yes,Distilled water and kill coil is all you need.
No,You don't need an RX rad.,But you will get better temps with it.
Took me a couple of hours to put the kit together.
The only thing is to look very close for leaks.
XSPC has a good warranty.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alchemik;12646021*
> Hey I just had a few quick questions, any help would be appreciate . I was thinking about getting the RS360 kit and was wondering the only thing I need to get is distilled water and a silver coil correct?
> 
> I only plan to do a CPU loop, no expanding to GPU or MoBo, so no point in getting the RX?
> 
> How long would it take to set this up? A couple of hours, or the better part of a day/weekend?
> 
> What is the risk factor? Since I'd be setting it up anything that could go wrong would be my fault, but how likely is it that you could mess this up.
> 
> Last but not least, what is the warranty like? Is it only for parts that break? or do the cover for parts that may get fried by leaks. I know my H50 covers for leaks, but it's a premade closed loop and have only been a hand full of cases.


-yes distilled and kill coil will be good..
-rs360 will be good for cpu...you can get a rs240 if u want..but who know maybe in the future u like to upgrade atleast ur ready if u get the 360 rs or rx...just incase u change your mind on staying on cpu only loop..
-time wise..if its ur first time just prepare yourself and take a day to spend just to make sure ur doing it the right way..

-if u took ur time and do double triple check..ull not get any leaks...

-i think rasa warranty the kit only..not the parts u fry...i think...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12644824*
> So i know the pumps are not the greatest in the rasa kit, I'm curious if the stock rasa rs240 kits pump will be enough for a, RS240, CPU, GPU, RX240, ResPump Loop... And if not what pump will fit in the res


Definitly yes..

My loops is res/pump>ek 240>mobo full block>rs360>cpu>res/pump..

I got a flow meter and its all good on the flow..no bad readings yet...so i guess ur loop will be alryt.. =)


----------



## Phobos223

Nice club you guys got going here! I don't have one of these kits, but I have been running 2 of the XSPC 750 res/pumps for almost a year now in a custom kit and they have been rock solid!

Nice to see they put it all together in a kit now!


----------



## alchemik

Thanks for the help guys, now just one more question. I have a Haf X and was planning on putting the rad up top. I do have 2 240mm( whatever size goes up there) fans up top that are said to be 11cfm, could i use those fans or should i use 3 120mm fans?


----------



## nden

I'm wondering this Pump/Res combo kit would have enough power to run 2 more GPU ? I'm planning to add 2 more GPU block in my loop soon.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nden;12647390*
> I'm wondering this Pump/Res combo kit would have enough power to run 2 more GPU ? I'm planning to add 2 more GPU block in my loop soon.


hmmm i dont think so...coz the only test i got for my flow meter is a mobo full block and the cpu water block with 240 and a 360 rad...dont know anything about the gpu specially running 2...dont know how restrictive that could be on a small pum what the kit got...

but on a mobo and a cpu block my water flow is all good...


----------



## Havoknova

well on my 1090t...cpu at 4.3ghz...ambient at 75f...at full load my cpu gets around 57c u guys think thats normal???just crossing the border on the 4.3ghz mark now...so no idea if that temp is good on a rasa kit...

right now cpu at stable state...goin for 30 minutes now and counting....


----------



## SadistBlinx

Does anyone know if the pump on the XSPC Rasa 450 RS120 kit would be powerful enough to use with a RX240 Rad instead of the RS 120?
It would be CPU Loop only.
I ask because if my friend gets the XSPC Rasa 450 RS120 kit i could give him my RX240 Rad and use the RS120 his comes with for my other build.


----------



## mbudden

I don't know... That pump is quite small...


----------



## CalypsoRaz

DAMN... Crazy-pc emailed me and said that the Rx360 kit was sold out.. they sent me everything but..

EDIT: Has anyone used performance-pcs.com?


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12649865*
> DAMN... Crazy-pc emailed me and said that the Rx360 kit was sold out.. they sent me everything but..
> 
> EDIT: Has anyone used performance-pcs.com?


Yup. They're legit. Bought a 4 pack of 45 degree rotary adapters from there.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12649865*
> DAMN... Crazy-pc emailed me and said that the Rx360 kit was sold out.. they sent me everything but..
> 
> EDIT: Has anyone used performance-pcs.com?


Yep, bought mine there. Good and fast service, if you call them you get a person that knows something about what they sell.


----------



## SadistBlinx

If anyone can help me with my temp issues post in the thread i made please ><
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post12653046
I can't work this out at all, i remounted the block as well.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx*


If anyone can help me with my temp issues post in the thread i made please ><
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post12653046
I can't work this out at all, i remounted the block as well.


Try turning that 120mm fan on your rad to blow out the case,Try it and see if that make a difference.


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


Try turning that 120mm fan on your rad to blow out the case,Try it and see if that make a difference.


I had both of the fans blowing air to the outside of the case but the back fan was hitting on the metal of my case so i turned the fans around. Temp wise it was only 1-2c increase from what i saw at the time.


----------



## deathshad

Waiting for my Reservoir/Pump to return from warrenty. The pump had a bad rattle that i could not put up with any longer. Any1 else had this issue? looking forward to pushing the 2600k above 5g


----------



## SadistBlinx

My pump is virtually noiseless it's actually hard to tell if its running sometimes, I hope it stays like this because silent pc is fantastic.
I got my kit from PCCG where did you get yours from?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;12653518*
> My pump is virtually noiseless it's actually hard to tell if its running sometimes, I hope it stays like this because silent pc is fantastic.
> I got my kit from PCCG where did you get yours from?


I got my kit from FrozenCPU.com
I got my additional 120mm rad. from SVC.com
And got my motherboard waterblock from Koolance.com
Tubing(PrimoChill Red UV Pro)from Microcenter
Clamps from O'Reilly auto parts.
Distilled water from Kroger supermarket.
Kill Coil from FrozenCPU.com
Fans needed 4(Had 3)more(Xigmatek XSF-F1251)from Microcenter
Oh,Yeah.Got more screws(#6-32 x1 1/4")from HomeDepot


----------



## nicksasa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12647540*
> well on my 1090t...cpu at 4.3ghz...ambient at 75f...at full load my cpu gets around 57c u guys think thats normal???just crossing the border on the 4.3ghz mark now...so no idea if that temp is good on a rasa kit...
> 
> right now cpu at stable state...goin for 30 minutes now and counting....


I don't know your ambient, but with 2 rads that's high. I'm on 1.54V and it barely touches 47°C. (Heat output is the same for X4 & X6, 125W)


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12647540*
> well on my 1090t...cpu at 4.3ghz...ambient at 75f...at full load my cpu gets around 57c u guys think thats normal???just crossing the border on the 4.3ghz mark now...so no idea if that temp is good on a rasa kit...
> 
> right now cpu at stable state...goin for 30 minutes now and counting....


Those are real good temps @ 4.3,With the ambient temps @ 75f.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathshad;12653369*
> Waiting for my Reservoir/Pump to return from warrenty. The pump had a bad rattle that i could not put up with any longer. Any1 else had this issue? looking forward to pushing the 2600k above 5g


My pump is silent no noise at all..I got mine at frozencpu too..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12653699*
> I don't know your ambient, but with 2 rads that's high. I'm on 1.54V and it barely touches 47°C. (Heat output is the same for X4 & X6, 125W)


Well ur on 4.0ghz.. My ambient is around 75f
And my voltage 1.59v..maybe thats why my temp is higher...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12653724*
> Those are real good temps @ 4.3,With the ambient temps @ 75f.


Thtats what i thought..trying to put it to 4.5ghz this weekend and see what temps i get..i think it will be around 65+ on 1.63-1.66v stable..will see what happens..


----------



## Lee17

Here mine with a i5 2500K in a Lian Li K62 and some temp problem i guess




































Can you help me?

Thanks, ~ Lee

Edit, I change my temp pics for a better one


----------



## ahhell

Well I got my kit installed last night. Took a lot longer than I thought it would.
I really need to get a modular power supply as I'm not liking the big mass of cables.

I'm pretty happy with the results although I need to do some serious work on the color scheme...lol.

I haven't really tested it out yet...got too late...so HOPEFULLY it works according to plan.
The only thing that's annoying me a bit is that the pump is buzzing. I could see a few air bubbles...that better be the problem.


----------



## mbudden

FrozenCPU here and mine is virtually silent as well, and when I mean silent... I mean DEAD silent. This evening I will be going through and adding everyone. Is there anything else I should add to the FAQ? I know I added something yesterday about how to mount the AMD bracket, but I don't know where I found it. So if it was you, tell me. I'll credit you.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee17;12654658*
> Here mine with a i5 2500K in a Lian Li K62 and some temp problem i guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you help me?
> 
> Thanks, ~ Lee
> 
> Edit, I change my temp pics for a better one


I cant see the numbers its to blurry to resize get a new pic please..thanks..

(using my iphone right now lolz)


----------



## mbudden

From what I can see. 45C running P95? That's not bad at all....


----------



## alchemik

Another quick question, who here has the 360 kit and is using it in a Haf X? I'm trying to figure out if I mount the rad up top would it be better to use the two 200mm fans i have up top, 110cfm (that's what cooler master claims anyways), or to remove the fans and use three 120mm fans. Also how bad would it be to use a push pull system with different size fans? Not that I'd do that just curious. Thanks for the help.


----------



## mbudden

You generally want the same fans if you're going to do a push/pull set up.


----------



## lilraver018

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12644837*
> Of course, RAD's aren't restrictive, WB's are. I'm running a GPU & CPU in my loop. All good here.


So the rasa 750 pump/res combo should be able to handle a rs360 rad the Rasa waterblock and a low restriction water block for the graphics card?

Temps any good?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilraver018;12655678*
> So the rasa 750 pump/res combo should be able to handle a rs360 rad the Rasa waterblock and a low restriction water block for the graphics card?
> 
> Temps any good?


Yes. You should be fine.
My temps? When I'm folding on both my CPU/GPU. I get around ~43C on both. Slightly higher on the GPU ~45C. But very nice temps over all. Do note this is with a RS240.


----------



## lilraver018

Hmm sounds good, might pick up the rs360 kit when i get a job.


----------



## alchemik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12655598*
> You generally want the same fans if you're going to do a push/pull set up.


Yeah that's what I thought. Any thoughts about 2x200mm fans or 3x120mm?


----------



## MorbEIn

A question, think the pump from the kit can handle 2 360 rads? 2 gpu blocks and cpu?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12655809*
> A question, think the pump from the kit can handle 2 360 rads? 2 gpu blocks and cpu?


It'd be pushing it, but I believe wermad had it running 5 or 6 blocks for some time before he upgraded.


----------



## Lee17

My lowest temp are 45 and my highest is 54*C running prime95 for 20 min only but it didn't rise.

Oh and I'm running at stock speed.

(do you know tricks to take great screenshot? I past it in paint but you see the result







)

Thanks Lee

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12655809*
> A question, think the pump from the kit can handle 2 360 rads? 2 gpu blocks and cpu?


Yea..mine is a 360 and a fat 240 with mobo full block and cpu..i bet my restriction is more considering if u use 1 gpu block only..but if u use 2 then thats different...but if u got a 2 rad with gpu and a cpu i bet that will be ok..coz i think rad dont put out that much restriction..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee17;12656427*
> My lowest temp are 45 and my highest is 54*C running prime95 for 20 min only but it didn't rise.
> 
> Oh and I'm running at stock speed.
> 
> (do you know tricks to take great screenshot? I past it in paint but you see the result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Thanks Lee
> 
> Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


Camera???try that..and focus only on temp and the ur cpuid..need to know ur ambient and ur voltage and ur clock speed coz dont that much on those new cpu of intel..


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alchemik;12655590*
> Another quick question, who here has the 360 kit and is using it in a Haf X? I'm trying to figure out if I mount the rad up top would it be better to use the two 200mm fans i have up top, 110cfm (that's what cooler master claims anyways), or to remove the fans and use three 120mm fans. Also how bad would it be to use a push pull system with different size fans? Not that I'd do that just curious. Thanks for the help.


I have a HAF 932 AMD Limited Edition and my 360 rad fits great up top inside and a 120mm rad fits great where the 140mm fan is at the back of the case tonly thing is you have to mount the 120mm rad upside down.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee17;12656427*
> My lowest temp are 45 and my highest is 54*C running prime95 for 20 min only but it didn't rise.
> 
> Oh and I'm running at stock speed.
> 
> (do you know tricks to take great screenshot? I past it in paint but you see the result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Thanks Lee


Use the Snipping Tool in Win7.
Start Menu > Accessories > Snipping Tool
Then from the drop down select "Full Screen Snip".
Then upload it to a site like imageshack.us or imgur that doesn't downsize the photo.


----------



## Lee17

Ok, after some minutes only of prime95










Take with snippingtool and upload with imageshack


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee17;12657517*
> Ok, after some minutes only of prime95


Temps look good.


----------



## Lee17

For the stock speed? It is fine!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee17;12657517*
> Ok, after some minutes only of prime95
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take with snippingtool and upload with imageshack


Not on a 3.3ghz..thats too high...thats about my 4.0ghz..on high voltage too 1.4v..all i can say is thats too high for a intel chip..


----------



## deathshad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;12653518*
> My pump is virtually noiseless it's actually hard to tell if its running sometimes, I hope it stays like this because silent pc is fantastic.
> I got my kit from PCCG where did you get yours from?


Thats is where i bought mine from also.


----------



## MorbEIn

aha.. so this means i wont be able to run 2 360 rads, 1 cpu block, 2 gpu blocks with the kit because of the restriction.. i guess i will have to part ways with my res/pump combo then.. will transfer it to the missus' rig...

this will mean i wont have a rasa kit anymore..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12657714*
> aha.. so this means i wont be able to run 2 360 rads, 1 cpu block, 2 gpu blocks with the kit because of the restriction.. i guess i will have to part ways with my res/pump combo then.. will transfer it to the missus' rig...
> 
> this will mean i wont have a rasa kit anymore..


Try it out maybe it will work..if u get low flow then change it..if u dont have a mobo block i think it will be alryt..

On ur loop will be first on the kit..so next person will ask if they can ran same loop as what u got then you can tell them if its runable or not......... =)


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12657912*
> Try it out maybe it will work..if u get low flow then change it..if u dont have a mobo block i think it will be alryt..
> 
> On ur loop will be first on the kit..so next person will ask if they can ran same loop as what u got then you can tell them if its runable or not......... =)


good point, yeh, ill run it with the kit first, then if it doesnt work ill get a mcp355 or whatever its called.. i need to read more about this hehe


----------



## mbudden

Who says you can't still be a member or can't chat here if you upgrade? I don't mind one bit. There is people that have upgraded out of the RASA kit and still hang around here.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12657972*
> There is people that have upgraded out of the RASA kit and still hang around here.


Heck I'm one,lol


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12657941*
> good point, yeh, ill run it with the kit first, then if it doesnt work ill get a mcp355 or whatever its called.. i need to read more about this hehe


Yea mcp655,350,355,35x lolz....


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12657972*
> Who says you can't still be a member or can't chat here if you upgrade? I don't mind one bit. There is people that have upgraded out of the RASA kit and still hang around here.


hehe thanks, but yeh, I'll try out the 2 360 rads, 2 gpu blocks, 1 cpu, on the kit and see hot it will go... im conteomplating between another rs360 or the rx version... I just got my 2nd waterblock so both my 6870 is under water now.. the watercooling kit cant keep up with the temps anymore so i'm forced to get another 360 rad...

all this watercooling hobby... im getting addicted to it... On the way to work, i check OCN for watercooling stuff, online stores for cheap parts and all that.. i do the same during tea breaks and lunch... and in between....


----------



## mbudden

I doubt you will need 2 360 rads. Maybe if you just if you a good 360 rad like the RX360, you would be fine.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12658066*
> I doubt you will need 2 360 rads. Maybe if you just if you a good 360 rad like the RX360, you would be fine.


Was thinking of that as well, 'what if i just upgrade the rs360 to a better rad like the GTX360' but I've read other posts, and 'more rads = lower temps = less noise by using low RPM fans'

so yeh, thats why i wanted to use another 360, just to make my sytem as silent as i can hehe like properly silent..

Oh and btw, my pump aint rattling anymore... well at the moment its vibrating... What I did is I wrapped the whole reservoir in a towel, chucked it inside my case which is ginarmous inside, and bam! I cant hear it anymore, vibrations? hah, wont happen with taht thick towel you use to dry yourself off covering it hehe







I hid it on the bays, hard to find if since its covered by a panel ^_^

Edit: Forgot to mention that I dont have the bay reservoir showing on the front panel, seems like the 800D can hide your 5'25 just by pushing the components further inside and covering it with the stock panels ^_^


----------



## Havoknova

Well if i got my 6970 with full cover gpu block ill change my rasa res/pump...to ek or koolance res..but ill still keep my cpu and rad from the kit..but that will be probably this summer..


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12658170*
> Well if i got my 6970 with full cover gpu block ill change my rasa res/pump...to ek or koolance res..but ill still keep my cpu and rad from the kit..but that will be probably this summer..


Those koolance res are expensive :S If I'm going to spend that much, I might as well get a custom made one.. Koolance res are quite sexy though dont get me wrong ^_^... I just cant justify the price they're asking for it... **if you're talking about the Koolance bay res taht is







**

I'm so tempted to give my 6870's to my GF and just get a 6990.. **I know i've been spending a lot, I'm getting paid too much for a job that doesnt even require 10% of my energy..







+ i'll get tax returns and pension refunds... GF asked me why i opted out of my pension scheme.. told her im pretty sure i wont live beyond 60...







positive thinking! XD


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12658254*
> Those koolance res are expensive :S If I'm going to spend that much, I might as well get a custom made one.. Koolance res are quite sexy though dont get me wrong ^_^... I just cant justify the price they're asking for it... **if you're talking about the Koolance bay res taht is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **
> 
> I'm so tempted to give my 6870's to my GF and just get a 6990.. **I know i've been spending a lot, I'm getting paid too much for a job that doesnt even require 10% of my energy..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> + i'll get tax returns and pension refunds... GF asked me why i opted out of my pension scheme.. told her im pretty sure i wont live beyond 60...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> positive thinking! XD


Lolz!!!

If 6990 comes at summer ill just get that then...i want that koolance dual loop bay res...but will see this weekend...ill try to push this kit to 4.5ghz see where am at...


----------



## ezveedub

If you want to run two separate loops, you can run XSPCs dual pump reservoir with 2 DDC pumps. Its cheaper than Koolance by a lot!

http://www.xspc.biz/ddcdualbayrestwo.php


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12658362*
> Lolz!!!
> 
> If 6990 comes at summer ill just get that then...i want that koolance dual loop bay res...but will see this weekend...ill try to push this kit to 4.5ghz see where am at...


You know the 6990 should be shipping in like a week right







Go look at newegg, But it is $710 + shipping for the Sapphire


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12659528*
> You know the 6990 should be shipping in like a week right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go look at newegg, But it is $710 + shipping for the Sapphire


its roughly £580'ish here... almost a quarter of my paycheck >.> just asked the missus if i can get one since we have money to spare.. said no cuz she wants to go to puerto rico this year... >.>

who needs holidays when i have a 6990 ffs... pain in the ass...


----------



## mbudden

I would wait to see the 590 first before purchasing the 6990.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12659620*
> I would wait to see the 590 first before purchasing the 6990.


Patience is something I do not have unfortunately... Once I have the money, I just cant stop spending... then after a couple of days i'll have regrets buying stuff I just bought... ;p


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12659620*
> I would wait to see the 590 first before purchasing the 6990.


Im hoping for a 6990 price drop when it comes out, But the 590 is going to be like $800 to $900 im not going there


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12659654*
> Patience is something I do not have unfortunately... Once I have the money, I just cant stop spending... then after a couple of days i'll have regrets buying stuff I just bought... ;p


Well, if you regret buying stuff, buy local. You can always return it if you have regrets. Even with a restock fee, you get most of your money back.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12659892*
> Well, if you regret buying stuff, buy local. You can always return it if you have regrets. Even with a restock fee, you get most of your money back.


Hehe, just because I live in London doesn't mean I have access to big shops like the ones in the US like uhm.. microcentre? whatelse do you have.. yeh whatever







anyway, The only and I mean the ONLY local proper computer shop there is in London is this shop called yoyotech a good small computer parts shop but an incomplete one... the next closest ones are outside london..









I have no choice but to get my stuff online.. Mind you we dont even have distilled water sold in our local grocery stores here... you ask for distilled water, they'll direct you to drinking water, big hardware shops only has de mineralized water and deionized...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


Hehe, just because I live in London doesn't mean I have access to big shops like the ones in the US like uhm.. microcentre? whatelse do you have.. yeh whatever







anyway, The only and I mean the ONLY local proper computer shop there is in London is this shop called yoyotech a good small computer parts shop but an incomplete one... the next closest ones are outside london..









I have no choice but to get my stuff online.. Mind you we dont even have distilled water sold in our local grocery stores here... you ask for distilled water, they'll direct you to drinking water, big hardware shops only has de mineralized water and deionized...


I know its limited in the UK, but you should be able to locate some at an auto garage or supply store. You have to use distilled water for lead acid auto batteries, so you may want to check there for it. Hell, just but a RO/DI unit and you can have pure water all day, LOL! That's what I've been using.

At least you get some of the cool Euro car parts over there in London. I used to order my new and used parts from the UK all the time years ago. I actually would love to have a MKII Escort over here in the states.


----------



## nden

Tell me about it. If I knew water cooling is an expensive hobby, I wouldn't go this route







I would buy parts instead of the kit. Anyway, top off with this RX360 kit, I've decided to get 2 Swiftech MCP655 pumps and an EK-bay spin reservoirs. For this reason, I think these 2 pumps would do better for my future loop which is motherboard blocks and 2 GPU blocks.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


its roughly Â£580'ish here... almost a quarter of my paycheck >.> just asked the missus if i can get one since we have money to spare.. said no cuz she wants to go to puerto rico this year... >.>

who needs holidays when i have a 6990 ffs... pain in the ass...


well taxes are here pretty soon for me so 6990 -come hug papa- lolz...puerto rico is nice place but put in the 6990 and watch puerto rico places in ur computer is much nicer to me...lolz


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


its roughly Â£580'ish here... almost a quarter of my paycheck >.> just asked the missus if i can get one since we have money to spare.. said no cuz she wants to go to puerto rico this year... >.>

who needs holidays when i have a 6990 ffs... pain in the ass...


Puerto Rico????

It's ok I guess... (j/k)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


well taxes are here pretty soon for me so 6990 -come hug papa- lolz...puerto rico is nice place but put in the 6990 and watch puerto rico places in ur computer is much nicer to me...lolz


Yeah... Lets see you grab on to a mamacita through your monitor!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ok... Got the MCP655-B (non-adjustable) and MAN... it is quiet as can be! I hooked up the LED from the XSPC res to the MCP655 just so I have a visual alert to the fact that it was running.

If anyone is thinking about it... DO IT. You will not regret the investment.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Ok... Got the MCP655-B (non-adjustable) and MAN... it is quiet as can be! I hooked up the LED from the XSPC res to the MCP655 just so I have a visual alert to the fact that it was running.

If anyone is thinking about it... DO IT. You will not regret the investment.


I figured you would get the adjustable pump.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I figured you would get the adjustable pump.


His wife got it for his birthday gift.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


His wife got it for his birthday gift.










Yeah... Oh well, the intention is what matters and it is going the job I needed it to... so I guess I saved (my credit card anyways) about $11 in the process.

Actually... she saw I had MCP655 written on a piece of paper. She saw MCP655-B so she though this was a newer more advanced version and went with that. Afterwards I saw what she ordered but I did not have the heart to tell her that it was the other pump I wanted...


----------



## mbudden

Like you said, it's the thought that counts


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Like you said, it's the thought that counts










Yep... Important thing is NO MORE RATTLING!!! Was about to change my rig's name to rattlesnake or something... I am happy just the same!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yeah... Oh well, the intention is what matters and it is going the job I needed it to... so I guess I saved (my credit card anyways) about $11 in the process.

Actually... she saw I had MCP655 written on a piece of paper. She saw MCP655-B so she though this was a newer more advanced version and went with that. Afterwards I saw what she ordered but I did not have the heart to tell her that it was the other pump I wanted...


You should have wrote down Cooler Master HAF X or Case Labs M8 case on the paper, LOL!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yep... Important thing is NO MORE RATTLING!!! Was about to change my rig's name to rattlesnake or something... I am happy just the same!


Do you get a little whining sound? What reservoir are you using?


----------



## pwnography6

The 240 kits are totally sold out in australia







I can only find the RS120. How does that handle OCing? It will be going in a phenom II x2 Asrock mobo no graphics card at the time being either.

This isnt a going in a gaming rig just a 1st watercooling project/OC/folding rig.


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


The 240 kits are totally sold out in australia







I can only find the RS120. How does that handle OCing? It will be going in a phenom II x2 Asrock mobo no graphics card at the time being either.

This isnt a going in a gaming rig just a 1st watercooling project/OC/folding rig.


depending on the price, id wait for more rs240s or get a corsair h50/70.

the rs120 _kit_ isnt worth it...but it depends on the price.


----------



## pwnography6

yeah theres only like $20 dif in the kits here so id be better off waiting.sigh.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Took my system back to near stock to flash a new bios.

2600K @ 4ghz, 1.176v idle / 1.208v load (auto vcore in bios)
ambient: 21C
idle: 24-29C
load 40-44C from IBT

shin etsu x23, fans in push, water temps showing 24-25C


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12663488*
> Took my system back to near stock to flash a new bios.
> 
> 2600K @ 4ghz, 1.176v idle / 1.208v load (auto vcore in bios)
> ambient: 21C
> idle: 24-29C
> load 40-44C from IBT
> 
> shin etsu x23, fans in push, water temps showing 24-25C


Thats normal temps..very nice =)


----------



## pwnography6

How long is the warranty on the pump and stuff guys just out of curiousty?


----------



## mbudden

I think it's a year.


----------



## hot120

So,

I wonder why some of the members received new pumps and others didn't? A rattle is a rattle, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12662051*
> Yep... Important thing is NO MORE RATTLING!!! Was about to change my rig's name to rattlesnake or something... I am happy just the same!


----------



## Annex

Got the kit and it took forever to set up and I was sure I was gonna run out of tubing (I used primoflex instead of stock).. It should be "measure a couple hundred times; then cut, maybe".

Currently leak testing for the standard 12-24hrs


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;12664445*
> Got the kit and it took forever to set up and I was sure I was gonna run out of tubing (I used primoflex instead of stock).. It should be "measure a couple hundred times; then cut, maybe".
> 
> Currently leak testing for the standard 12-24hrs


if nothing leaks within 10-30mins you're good


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;12664445*
> Got the kit and it took forever to set up and I was sure I was gonna run out of tubing (I used primoflex instead of stock).. It should be "measure a couple hundred times; then cut, maybe".
> 
> Currently leak testing for the standard 12-24hrs


If it hasn't leaked in an hour is most likely not going to







I can't see waiting 12-24 hours







Just keep an eye on it.


----------



## Annex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12664651*
> if nothing leaks within 10-30mins you're good


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12664661*
> If it hasn't leaked in an hour is most likely not going to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't see waiting 12-24 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep an eye on it.


I'll give it a good 2-10 hours then (or whenever I feel like messing around with cables and putting everything back in order)..

I've had no leaks so far, so I'm fairly confident it won't at this point.

I did my best to get as many bubbles out as possible, but most seem to just end up in the res at their own leisure (and moving/shaking seems to put bubbles back in the loop).


----------



## MorbEIn

I havent done a leak test on my first WC







I assumed it will be fine the first time i set the thing up because it was me who did it hehe *too much self confidence?







**, the first second everything was in order, reservoir filled and bled for 10 minutes i attached everything and went on to normal routine, gaming/browsing and all that crap hehe

had paper towels underneath every nook and cranny though while the system was on ^_^


----------



## Annex

The tubing I have seems incredibly sturdy and nearly impossible to pull off without wrecking something.. I still put the clamps on since impossiblex2 covers my paranoia for the most part.


----------



## deathshad

Just received my new res/pump I hope this one does not rattle


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot120;12664380*
> So,
> 
> I wonder why some of the members received new pumps and others didn't? A rattle is a rattle, right?


I had already exchanged and as luck would have it, my replacement also rattled. I have read of others receiving replacements and no more rattling. I personally got the new pump as a b-day gift from the wide (who was highly annoyed by the rattle) so I won't go through another replacement.

As for some getting replacements and other not, I have no idea. XSPC is aware of the rattle, that it is a design/manufacturing flaw and that it is being corrected. If they have refused to exchange, I know it must be based on submitted evidence in the form of an explanatory e-mail along with a video. You MUST send them the video, you can NOT youtube it. Youtube (and similar sites) are banned by the Chinese government. Without the video, XSPC will not initiate a replacement process. Also, you need to "humbly" ask them to review your case. Going in with guns blazing WILL NOT WORK.


----------



## Annex

Currently letting prime run to see if I'm stable at 4.1ghz.. I tried getting 4.2 at higher voltages, but it would BSOD during prime after 3-5mins no matter what I did.

To the main point - on the eco r120, I was getting core temps pushing 52-58c and CPU temps pushing over the limit at 1.472v with 4.0ghz.. The rasa kit allows me to push higher volts without much of a temperature increase, so I'm definitely satisfied.

I'd recommend the kit to anyone interested in getting phenomenal clocks with very low temps... The installation took a while, but everything went smoothly and was straightforward for the most part.

I only regret going with clear tubing.


----------



## Isopropyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;12667119*


All of your cores at the same temperature; Wow I am jealous?! My i7 970 has a 10ºC variation between the cores. And that is even after lapping the Rasa. I seriously think I need to look at a better pump (sorry brain explosion of random thoughts).


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12664661*
> If it hasn't leaked in an hour is most likely not going to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't see waiting 12-24 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep an eye on it.


I've had mine running now for 60 days now and it hasn't leaked yet. Could it still leak? Should I stuff the inerior with paper towel just to be safe? Should I switch back to an air cooler and never try this again? Should I just throw my computer away and never look back? Should I be on medication? I don't know what to do. I'm so worried. Please Help!!







GAWD.


----------



## Isopropyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12661913*
> Yeah... Oh well, the intention is what matters and it is going the job I needed it to... so I guess I saved (my credit card anyways) about $11 in the process.
> 
> Actually... she saw I had MCP655 written on a piece of paper. She saw MCP655-B so she though this was a newer more advanced version and went with that. Afterwards I saw what she ordered but I did not have the heart to tell her that it was the other pump I wanted...


What Res are you running? Did you keep the same XSPC or did you have / get a new one instead? Asking as I was playing around with Martins cooling config and it said I was only pumping 0.6 gallons a min, that is to low for my taste!


----------



## Penryn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isopropyl;12667160*
> All of your cores at the same temperature; Wow I am jealous?! My i7 970 has a 10ºC variation between the cores. And that is even after lapping the Rasa. I seriously think I need to look at a better pump (sorry brain explosion of random thoughts).


AMD 6 cores have a single sensor for all 6 cores and it is known to be inaccurate by about 10C. Thats why they all read the same. The cpu socket temp is what matters.


----------



## Isopropyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penryn;12667238*
> AMD 6 cores have a single sensor for all 6 cores and it is known to be inaccurate by about 10C. Thats why they all read the same. The cpu socket temp is what matters.


Learn something new each day. Thanks for that!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;12667119*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently letting prime run to see if I'm stable at 4.1ghz.. I tried getting 4.2 at higher voltages, but it would BSOD during prime after 3-5mins no matter what I did.
> 
> To the main point - on the eco r120, I was getting core temps pushing 52-58c and CPU temps pushing over the limit at 1.472v with 4.0ghz.. The rasa kit allows me to push higher volts without much of a temperature increase, so I'm definitely satisfied.
> 
> I'd recommend the kit to anyone interested in getting phenomenal clocks with very low temps... The installation took a while, but everything went smoothly and was straightforward for the most part.
> 
> I only regret going with clear tubing.


Well mine i got my 4.3ghz at 1.59v..so maybe if u crank ur voktage about 1.55 or 1.56v ull get it stable at 4.2 on ur 1090t..


----------



## Dissentience

My Yate Loons will be here today. I was looking forward to getting this system back on its overclock before I leave for work today, but then I remembered City Light is shutting the power off for 8 hours to put in new telephone poles


----------



## ahhell

When you guys mention the pump "rattling", what exactly do you mean?

Mine seems to be buzzing which is a bit annoying. It seems to work well (am getting 59C at full load with a stock I7-950) though.


----------



## [Adz]

Just a quick question: a 1/2" sealing plug (for a drain tube) work with 7/16" tubing?


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];12668329*
> Just a quick question: a 1/2" sealing plug (for a drain tube) work with 7/16" tubing?


Yes.

All the kit barbs are 1/2" as well. A drain plug is usually just a barb with a G1/4" female end, and a G1/4" stop plug. Like this:



You just need to soften the tube it in some hot distilled water and slide it on.


----------



## [Adz]

Thank you.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12668131*
> When you guys mention the pump "rattling", what exactly do you mean?
> 
> Mine seems to be buzzing which is a bit annoying. It seems to work well (am getting 59C at full load with a stock I7-950) though.


59C at stock settings? Sounds too high to me. I might try re-seating the block.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];12668329*
> Just a quick question: a 1/2" sealing plug (for a drain tube) work with 7/16" tubing?


Yes...but insert it with force or lube..lolz..


----------



## Blue Destroyer

2 days till my kit arrives....if it gets delivered on time. according to fedex, it hasnt moved in over 92 hours now.....and its still in ny when it needs to be on the west coast on friday..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12668131*
> When you guys mention the pump "rattling", what exactly do you mean?
> 
> Mine seems to be buzzing which is a bit annoying. It seems to work well (am getting 59C at full load with a stock I7-950) though.


Lolz 59 on full load sound like my 4.3ghz on full load..something is not right..


----------



## ahhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12668967*
> Lolz 59 on full load sound like my 4.3ghz on full load..something is not right..











I really don't appreciate you thinking this is funny.
I'm new to watercooling so I don't mind constructive criticism. You're comment was anything but.

What kind of temps should I expect if the fans are running at half speed?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

CrazyPC just completed my order today... tf? Guess I wont be getting to together this weekend. =(

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ahhell*










I really don't appreciate you thinking this is funny.
I'm new to watercooling so I don't mind constructive criticism. You're comment was anything but.

What kind of temps should I expect if the fans are running at half speed?


Well its funny to think that new intel burn that hot if u got the setup right..makes me laugh coz most of the peeps tells that intel runs cooler than amd that all..but i dont laugh that ur loop runs hot..not making fun of ur work or anything..just laughing on the intel / amd temp comparison temp..

Sorry if took it the wrong way..

Well about the temps..if ur running burn test or prime95 make sure ur fans at full speed so u know what u get on high settings..what i mean is hot dont compinsate with ur fan speed but the other way around, u need to compensate with ur fan speed for the torture test ur running..try to run it on full fan speed and if it doesnt have any temp changes then reseat ur block..and maybe a bit thighter..but not too tight..just to have full contact.. =)


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ahhell*










I really don't appreciate you thinking this is funny.
I'm new to watercooling so I don't mind constructive criticism. You're comment was anything but.

What kind of temps should I expect if the fans are running at half speed?


What TIM u using??
Whats ur ambient temp??

Well i got a example of the intel screw post how tight i got mine at..3 groves all around..and i got pics too..check it out..

Whats ur loops setup???u got the rad first or the block before rad?

Check it out..maybe it will help..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12670517*
> CrazyPC just completed my order today... tf? Guess I wont be getting to together this weekend. =(
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Patience... ull get it =)


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12669851*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't appreciate you thinking this is funny.
> I'm new to watercooling so I don't mind constructive criticism. You're comment was anything but.
> 
> What kind of temps should I expect if the fans are running at half speed?


You need to provide way more information. 59C at load on stock settings with an ambient of 35C is great (a 24C delta). If ambient is 5C (54C delta), then yeah that's a problem.

From a post I wrote earlier-
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12597913*
> Factors that affect your temperature at blocks:
> 
> Ambient temperature
> Radiator size (to an extent)
> Radiator location (internal vs external mounted)
> Fans used (brand / model)
> Fan speed used
> Fan orientation (push/pull)
> Fan shroud used
> System properly bled?
> Thermal Interface Material (TIM) usage and application method
> Pressure of block
> Flatness of block / cpu
> Tube length
> # of angled fittings / restrictive fittings used
> Overclock amount / voltage
> Type of coolant
> Sequence of water cooling components (only in multi block systems)


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12669851*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't appreciate you thinking this is funny.
> I'm new to watercooling so I don't mind constructive criticism. You're comment was anything but.
> 
> What kind of temps should I expect if the fans are running at half speed?


Whoa, ahhell, cool off (pun intended







). Ah, why the hell (pun intended again







) would you write something like that while asking for our help?







We're not talking about a life or death situation here. Those were perfectly legitimate questions that were asked as you gave zero detail about your problem. Geez!


----------



## MorbEIn

Just sold one of my 6870's.. missus told me that if i want a 6990 or a 590, I have to sell my GPU's first.. sold it to a friend.. running with 1 GPu block.. my temps went down by 6C









Now to get my other 6870 sold....

Update : For some reason, my reservoir just started spewing white bubbles? when I tilt the case from side to side, i get more bubbles and the pump starts rattling again.. >.>


----------



## mbudden

That's because you're probably introducing air into the pump there for creating bubbles.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Can anyone confirm this?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30280

Supports
AMD Sockets *939, 754, 940*, AM2, AM3
Intel Sockets LGA1366, LGA1156, LGA775, *603, 604*

On other sites the Rasa block does not state fitting those sockets.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12676305*
> Can anyone confirm this?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30280
> 
> Supports
> AMD Sockets *939, 754, 940*, AM2, AM3
> Intel Sockets LGA1366, LGA1156, LGA775, *603, 604*
> 
> On other sites the Rasa block does not state fitting those sockets.


The block when ordered by itself doesn't come with the amd mounting bracket, but the rasa kit comes with the bracket.


----------



## mbudden

From their website.
http://www.xspc.biz/rasamountam3black.php
http://www.xspc.biz/rasablack.php
Quote:


> - Supports Sockets AM2, AM3, 939, 754, 940, A/462, 604/603 and 701


Quote:


> - Supports Sockets LGA775, 1156, 1155 and 1366


----------



## The Sandman

Add me please, here are a few pics.
Figured I better get these in before there is any more tubing discoloration lol.
Crosshair IV Formula
1090T running 4139MHz @ 1.464v
NB Freq 3010MHz @ 1.436v
G.Skill 2 x 2GB ECO (7-8-7-24) running 1672MHz 6-8-6-20-24-1T @ 1.61v
HT 2006MHz
24 hr prime95 stable with average load temp 48-50c, average NB of 43c, ambient 21c, Rasa RS360 W/GT AP-15's with shrouds.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Now over 100 hours since last update of my kit from fedex...Fghgjhjhxdsjjjjfdvjfggg you fedex


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12676430*
> Add me please, here are a few pics.
> Figured I better get these in before there is any more tubing discoloration lol.
> Crosshair IV Formula
> 1090T running 4139MHz @ 1.464v
> NB Freq 3010MHz @ 1.436v
> G.Skill 2 x 2GB ECO (7-8-7-24) running 1672MHz 6-8-6-20-24-1T @ 1.61v
> HT 2006MHz
> 24 hr prime95 stable with average load temp 48-50c, average NB of 43c, ambient 21c, Rasa RS360 W/GT AP-15's with shrouds.


Looking sexy..


----------



## mbudden

Everyone has been added since the last update.
Do check to see if I missed anything. I doubt I did, but I could be wrong.
If I missed anything or anyone. Please let me know.

Also, another thing. Do list what kit you have. I look in the post & your signature to see if it's mentioned. Many people do list it. But there are some that have not. Just let me know what kit you have and I'll fix your name/kit in the list.

Oh and I forgot to mention, over 150 members in this club.


----------



## Jobotoo

I don't think I am on the list yet. I have the RX360 Kit.


----------



## Penryn

UPS delivered mine from SVC in 2 days.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penryn;12677105*
> UPS delivered mine from SVC in 2 days.


I ordered on the 1st didn't even ship until the 4th and hasn't been touched since the 5th..and still says its to be delivered on friday


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12677016*
> I don't think I am on the list yet. I have the RX360 Kit.


No, I added you. I couldn't forget a interesting username like that. lol


----------



## metroidfreak

Quick question. To the people who had their res/pump replaced, did he have you send the bad one back? I haven't heard anything from them at all about it.


----------



## Annex

Is it worth purchasing another 3 GT-AP15s for push/pull?


----------



## SadistBlinx

I actually own the Rasa 450 RS120 kit as well as my Rasa 750 RX240 lol.
I brought it for the Sg05 case that i was going to mod (Waiting for ITX mobo that i can OC with)...Dam H67 limitations.
I'll upload some pics when i can be bothered pulling the hardware out of the corner lol


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12677304*
> Quick question. To the people who had their res/pump replaced, did he have you send the bad one back? I haven't heard anything from them at all about it.


No.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Change out my stock tubing and this is what it looked like







the tubing had a bad smell to it to, But the water was clear








































*I replaced it with PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing, But I don't have any uv lights yet







O and I added a RX120 just because I could







*


----------



## SadistBlinx

Nice


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12677304*
> Quick question. To the people who had their res/pump replaced, did he have you send the bad one back? I haven't heard anything from them at all about it.


Nope...


----------



## Havoknova

Well goin to order some fittings and uv inverter and some tubing (did i say tubing??)(yes i did)dont like green already and its only a week..tired of looking at it..wahahah..redo my loop next weekend...damn did i mention its so addicting tearing and rebuilding my rig...i need rehab!!!!! Lolz.. =))


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12678995*
> Well goin to order some fittings and uv inverter and some tubing (did i say tubing??)(yes i did)dont like green already and its only a week..tired of looking at it..wahahah..redo my loop next weekend...damn did i mention its so addicting tearing and rebuilding my rig...i need rehab!!!!! Lolz.. =))


I know! SInce I got my kit, all i've been thinking is how to improve the looks or performance etc. etc. I had orange tubing initially, and now im trying out a black and white scheme... Spent so much money alraedy... >.> But still fun!


----------



## Havoknova

Gt ap14 and ap15 is there a big difference on high speed setting temps or its just the same thing....coz 1400 and 1800 is not a big difference on rps... 50 and 58 cfm is not the big difference too..so u think getting a ap14 is not that bad comparison with ap15??


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;12679558*
> I know! SInce I got my kit, all i've been thinking is how to improve the looks or performance etc. etc. I had orange tubing initially, and now im trying out a black and white scheme... Spent so much money alraedy... >.> But still fun!


Same here..im tire of the green now im goin for black and just uv light no more led fans..


----------



## metroidfreak

The clear tubing I had did the same ting, water is totally clear and clean though, and it's not doing anything to the blue tubing I had.

And thanks for answering my question


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metroidfreak;12677304*
> Quick question. To the people who had their res/pump replaced, did he have you send the bad one back? I haven't heard anything from them at all about it.


I didn't
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12679770*
> Gt ap14 and ap15 is there a big difference on high speed setting temps or its just the same thing....coz 1400 and 1800 is not a big difference on rps... 50 and 58 cfm is not the big difference too..so u think getting a ap14 is not that bad comparison with ap15??


My 4 AP-15's running at 1400 rpm's are almost silent. Running at 100% you can here them but they are not loud by any means. I don't see a big difference on my temps between those speeds, with a i5 750 running at 4.0Ghz @ 1.425V and a 5870 using a RS240 and RX120.


----------



## Penryn

Maybe it's sunlight messing up the tubes. It looks like UV damage.


----------



## mbudden

Highly doubt it. My computer faces away from outside light.
I'll dig up the name of what is happening. There is some kind of name for it.


----------



## mbudden

Found it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


It's a natural phenomenon with all types of tubing, called plasticizer.


http://www.overclock.net/11658599-post35.html


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Found it.

http://www.overclock.net/11658599-post35.html


That sounds like a bad Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles villain.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Highly doubt it. My computer faces away from outside light.
I'll dig up the name of what is happening. There is some kind of name for it.


Crystallizing?

I found this explanation...

Two causes:

- CO2 reacts with the resin or plasticizer, forming a skin of higher Tg plastic that crystallizes. (Tg is the "glass transition temperature". The lower the Tg, the harder the plastic.)

- By diffusion (heat, soaking, etc), the plasticizer leaves the resin causing the base material to partially crystallize. Heat and stress by themselves can also crystallize plastics. THIS is what I believe to be the main reason for the milky tubing we see in our systems. The res's are always clear because they are not reacting to the heat.

Either way, the crystallites that form in the plastic are opaque to light, making the tubing appear milky. You'll also notice that it's more brittle which is why plasticizers are added in the first place.


----------



## mbudden

It looks like Tygon has Plasticizer Free Tubing
http://www.copeplastics.com/tygon-pl...ee-tubing.html


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


It looks like Tygon has Plasticizer Free Tubing
http://www.copeplastics.com/tygon-pl...ee-tubing.html


That should minimize if not eliminate the clouding of the tubes. Plasticizer is an additive mixed with plastics to make it flexible and with cements to make it "workable" while still wet. Seems like plasticizer and heat do not mix well.


----------



## mbudden

It seems even the beloved Primochill has that problem, I know someone had brought it up a while ago.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


It seems even the beloved Primochill has that problem, I know someone had brought it up a while ago.


That is correct all though I think it was mentioned that it seemed to be to a lesser degree but I do not know if that was because of a lesser amount of plasticizer in the plastic or if it was due to the tubing being colored (UV red for example) or the amount of time the tubing had been installed. I just installed Primochill Red so I should know in about a week all though it is not to easy to see through the tubing.

I guess the only ones who will never see this are those with black/white solid colored tubing or maybe those who by that plasticizer free tubing (which I will bet is more expensive) from Tygon. I like the clear tubing look but not if it "crystallizes" like that. It looks down right dirty and with time I am guessing particulates will break away and may lodge somewhere in the loop.

EDIT: BTW... last weekend when I was redoing the tubing, I grabbed some leftover clear tubing and I did a small test at the time. I heated about 2 cups of water in the microwave and I placed a piece of new clear tubing in the hot water. I left it there for about 60 mins. When I drained the water and compared the tubing with another new piece of tubing, the heated tubing was already turning white. Of course I heated the water to a higher temp than our loops create BUT this helps to compensate for the time factor. Higher heat for a shorter period of time has an equivalent in lower heat for a higher time period. (Thanks to my daughter who is a chemistry major







)


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


It seems even the beloved Primochill has that problem, I know someone had brought it up a while ago.


Yup, that would be me lol. This is Primochill tubing after 30 days with no sun light or UV lighting. Hope there's a solution because I had already ordered/received than installed more of the same tubing thinking it was a bad flush job when first installing the kit. So looks like I'll be replacing it all again at the end of this month lol. What a PITA.

So Tygon tubing is the answer?


----------



## spoolindsm127

I also upgraded my tubing to PrimoChill clear tubing.

Got my kit and installed it in December. A month into it I noticed my tubes getting a 'dirty' color. Not exactly frosting or clouding.

Now after three months the tubes look like *****. Meaning they have a grimey dirty looking appearance, sort of a brownish shade. And the tubing closest to the CPU block is the 'dirtiest' looking and actually a bit clouded, compared to other sections. Also, the T-Line section in my loop does not have this discoloring whatsoever. The tubing is as clear as the day I bought it.

So like The Sandman said, I agree that it is heat which causes this discoloration. So very possible sunlight has an affect.

I'll try to take some pics and post em.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


So Tygon tubing is the answer?


Apparently so... Be our brave soul and buy some and let us know?







If we are correct, it has to specify it is plasticizer free. From what I have read from the link mbudden posted, it seems to be the FDA grade tubing (used in food/beverage industry).

Not sure if this cleans out or not. Was not interested in that option personally since I had some nice new red tubing at hand!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127*


I also upgraded my tubing to PrimoChill clear tubing.

Got my kit and installed it in December. A month into it I noticed my tubes getting a 'dirty' color. Not exactly frosting or clouding.

Now after three months the tubes look like *****. Meaning they have a grimey dirty looking appearance, sort of a brownish shade. And the tubing closest to the CPU block is the 'dirtiest' looking and actually a bit clouded, compared to other sections. Also, the T-Line section in my loop does not have this discoloring whatsoever. The tubing is as clear as the day I bought it.

So like The Sandman said, I agree that it is heat which causes this discoloration. So very possible sunlight has an affect.

I'll try to take some pics and post em.


Being closest to the CPU makes sense. It is where the most heat is generated. The t-line also. I believe the coolest water is in that section, right? I doubt that sunlight would have a big effect. It would need to heat up the tubing quite a bit and the cloudyness would then be on the "outside" of the tubing... unless... UV rays are also at play here but again, this is happening only on the inside so I guess heat + water (hydrogen, oxygen or both)?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12682951*
> Apparently so... Be our brave soul and buy some and let us know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If we are correct, it has to specify it is plasticizer free. From what I have read from the link mbudden posted, it seems to be the FDA grade tubing (used in food/beverage industry).
> 
> Not sure if this cleans out or not. Was not interested in that option personally since I had some nice new red tubing at hand!


Ya sure, leave it to the guy who's already had to buy tubing twice in one month lol.

I just emailed Cope Plastics to start the ball rolling as I know I'll have to be replacing the tubing again any way.

I'd rather see what's going on inside my loop rather than looking at colored tubing all the time and risk just covering up a now known issue.
I've looked at FrozenCPU under the Tygon tubing and don't see Tygon® Plasticizer Free Tubing listed.

I'll let you all know what they have to say.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12683869*
> Ya sure, leave it to the guy who's already had to buy tubing twice in one month lol.
> 
> I just emailed Cope Plastics to start the ball rolling as I know I'll have to be replacing the tubing again any way.
> 
> I'd rather see what's going on inside my loop rather than looking at colored tubing all the time and risk just covering up a now known issue.
> I've looked at FrozenCPU under the Tygon tubing and don't see Tygon® Plasticizer Free Tubing listed.
> 
> I'll let you all know what they have to say.


Feser tubing is another one that is free of this problem.


----------



## Havoknova

Just go full black or white tubing so u wont see alien stuff...or everytime u clean ur loop just change tube..every 3 months..its only 20 bucks...Just my opinion.. =)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12683869*
> Ya sure, leave it to the guy who's already had to buy tubing twice in one month lol.
> 
> I just emailed Cope Plastics to start the ball rolling as I know I'll have to be replacing the tubing again any way.
> 
> I'd rather see what's going on inside my loop rather than looking at colored tubing all the time and risk just covering up a now known issue.
> I've looked at FrozenCPU under the Tygon tubing and don't see Tygon® Plasticizer Free Tubing listed.
> 
> I'll let you all know what they have to say.


My choice is clear tubing because it looks cleaner and the lights reflect nicely (glitter factor I call it) of water filled clear tubing.

Sidewinder apparently sells it also...

Masterflex... (not sure on sizes though)

Here is a thread on XS about the plasticizer issue. They call it "Leech"...

US Plastics... Reliable. Have bought from them in the past. This tubing is pricey though...


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12683869*
> Ya sure, leave it to the guy who's already had to buy tubing twice in one month lol.
> 
> I just emailed Cope Plastics to start the ball rolling as I know I'll have to be replacing the tubing again any way.
> 
> I'd rather see what's going on inside my loop rather than looking at colored tubing all the time and risk just covering up a now known issue.
> I've looked at FrozenCPU under the Tygon tubing and don't see Tygon® Plasticizer Free Tubing listed.
> 
> I'll let you all know what they have to say.


If you do a search on frozencpu.com for 'plasticizer' two types of Tygon tubing pop up.

-Tygon 2375 Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing

-Tygon Silver Antimicrobial Tubing

Both are plasticizer free









EDIT: Sidewinder also has plasticizer free tubing. Tygon 2001 and Tygon 2075. I love Gary from SW great guy


----------



## liquoredonlife

I want to try running a Pentek water filter in my system to see if there's anything actually in the water. The best way would probably be to use a pair of quick disconnects. Put a quick disconnect in your loop somewhere, and put the same ones on opposite sides of the filter. Then introduce it to your system as needed. Expensive way of doing it though. Trying to see if I can use another method.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12683981*
> Just go full black or white tubing so u wont see alien stuff...or everytime u clean ur loop just change tube..every 3 months..its only 20 bucks...Just my opinion.. =)


This is true... But I am a cheapskate like you wouldn't believe. $20 x 4 changes a year = $80 a year PLUS the time it takes to drain, clean, install, fill, and get the air out of the system - and this is me that does not leak test! I am lazy... 2 times a year I can maybe live with. Also... I have it in my head now that if there is enough build up that pieces could get loose and clog up a water block or foul up a pump. I may be extreme in my line of thought but hey, better to be safe than sorry. This is an investment to me.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12684120*
> I want to try running a Pentek water filter in my system to see if there's anything actually in the water. The best way would probably be to use a pair of quick disconnects. Put a quick disconnect in your loop somewhere, and put the same ones on opposite sides of the filter. Then introduce it to your system as needed. Expensive way of doing it though. Trying to see if I can use another method.


Out of curiosity... if you are using distilled water, why filter it then?


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12684161*
> Out of curiosity... if you are using distilled water, why filter it then?


Because there might be stuff in your blocks. Water also has the ability to erode surfaces it comes in contact with.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12684131*
> This is true... But I am a cheapskate like you wouldn't believe. $20 x 4 changes a year = $80 a year PLUS the time it takes to drain, clean, install, fill, and get the air out of the system - and this is me that does not leak test! I am lazy... 2 times a year I can maybe live with. Also... I have it in my head now that if there is enough build up that pieces could get loose and clog up a water block or foul up a pump. I may be extreme in my line of thought but hey, better to be safe than sorry. This is an investment to me.


The only thing that will be a pain will cutting and replacing the tube..but well if u want it run fresh everytime change the water and change where the water is running..clean the rad and water block but on tube and water are replaceable items..to be a bit more cleaner system..go run balck or white tube and run the system for a year..hehehe..


----------



## Dissentience

I was thinking... I have my rad mounted on the back of my case, blowing air towards the back of the case. If I get a video card with a blower-style fan that ports air out the back, will the cooling performance of the video card suffer because of all the air blowing against where its trying to port out?


----------



## Penryn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12684545*
> I was thinking... I have my rad mounted on the back of my case, blowing air towards the back of the case. If I get a video card with a blower-style fan that ports air out the back, will the cooling performance of the video card suffer because of all the air blowing against where its trying to port out?


No, but it will heat the rad. My cards are aimed at a wall which is about oh 4-6 inches from the back of the case and they still run a decent 75-80C at %100 load, however the heat outside the case... well... it's VERY warm. I'd say it's a localized 90F behind the case. I also have my exhaust going out the back. It heats my room if I game for more than a few minutes.

So by aiming cards at a rad, you will heat the rad.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12684545*
> I was thinking... I have my rad mounted on the back of my case, blowing air towards the back of the case. If I get a video card with a blower-style fan that ports air out the back, will the cooling performance of the video card suffer because of all the air blowing against where its trying to port out?


Shouldn't because the video card pulls in to the cooler from the inside if the case. Thats why good case intake/exhaust is needed. My HAF 922 was set up exactly like that and I never noticed any temp difference while playing Mass Effect 2... and I checked thinking along those same lines you are.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12684650*
> Shouldn't because the video card pulls in to the cooler from the inside if the case. Thats why good case intake/exhaust is needed. My HAF 922 was set up exactly like that and I never noticed any temp difference while playing Mass Effect 2... and I checked thinking along those same lines you are.


OK cool, yeah so far to avoid conflict with the rad, I have my intake fan in the front and exhaust fan out the side panel. Hopefully the video card exhaust won't heat the rad too much, there's about 4 - 5 inches of clearance between the case and rad and the Yates push a lot of air back there.


----------



## Havoknova

Selling my 2 iceq 5770 turbo....anyone interested give me a pm..usa only..selling it for dirt cheap..hehheehehe


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12684710*
> OK cool, yeah so far to avoid conflict with the rad, I have my intake fan in the front and exhaust fan out the side panel. Hopefully the video card exhaust won't heat the rad too much, there's about 4 - 5 inches of clearance between the case and rad and the Yates push a lot of air back there.


Side panels are better suited for intakes. They shoot that air almost straight towards the video card fan intake. by any chance, does your case have fans on top? If so, that's where your exhaust should be.

Normally... NORMALLY... front & side fans are intakes. Top and rear fans are exhausts.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12684869*
> Side panels are better suited for intakes. They shoot that air almost straight towards the video card fan intake. by any chance, does your case have fans on top? If so, that's where your exhaust should be.
> 
> Normally... NORMALLY... front & side fans are intakes. Top and rear fans are exhausts.


Yeah I would rather have side panel as intake but my case has no top fans. I put the side panel as exhaust because I didn't want all the hot air trying to exit through the PSU.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12684941*
> Yeah I would rather have side panel as intake but my case has no top fans. I put the side panel as exhaust because I didn't want all the hot air trying to exit through the PSU.


You have a bottom fan by any chance that you can use as intake? Those will normally shoot right into the GPU cooler.


----------



## Buska103

How good is the value of the 360 XSPC kit? Would I be better off custom?
Single loop with CPU & HAF932 case


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12685224*
> How good is the value of the 360 XSPC kit? Would I be better off custom?
> Single loop with CPU & HAF932 case


Go to all the watercooling vendors and choose a pump, reservoir, 360mm radiator, 2m of tube, 3x 120mm fans + grills, a CPU block, 6 G1/4 1/2" barbs, 80-120mm fan adapter, and thermal paste.

I promise you won't be able to do it for less than $150.

I think one of the biggest strengths of this kit for watercooling beginners is that the pump and reservoir are integrated. That's one less thing you have to worry about, or worry about mounting. You really only have three things to start with.

I do think the lack of instructions are sort of a hindrance. If not even instructions, there should be some suggestions. But the amount of watercooling information on youtube should more than prepare you.

This kit also opens up the possibility of adding more blocks, reservoirs, custom fittings, and cost of entry into watercooling through this kit is comparatively cheap with high performance for your dollar. Comparatively, a Corsair H70 costs almost as much as the RS240 kit but performs nowhere near.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12685717*
> Go to all the watercooling vendors and choose a pump, reservoir, 360mm radiator, 2m of tube, 3x 120mm fans + grills, a CPU block, 6 G1/4 1/2" barbs, 80-120mm fan adapter, and thermal paste.
> 
> I promise you won't be able to do it for less than $150.
> 
> I think one of the biggest strengths of this kit for watercooling beginners is that the pump and reservoir are integrated. That's one less thing you have to worry about, or worry about mounting. You really only have three things to start with.
> 
> I do think the lack of instructions are sort of a hindrance. If not even instructions, there should be some suggestions. But the amount of watercooling information on youtube should more than prepare you.
> 
> This kit also opens up the possibility of adding more blocks, reservoirs, custom fittings, and cost of entry into watercooling through this kit is comparatively cheap with high performance for your dollar. Comparatively, a Corsair H70 costs almost as much as the RS240 kit but performs nowhere near.


AAAAAANNNNNDDDDDDDD... it is essentially still a custom loop. You can change any part at any time for whatever you want in the future.


----------



## Buska103

Minimum I was able to find was around $200 for something half decent... seeing how this is a very popular and well-known kit, I may get this just for it's price.. however, I hear that people have mounting problems with AM3 boards?

Approx. how many degrees C will this chill my CPU rather than having air cooling (Xigmatek HDT-1283).. still finding out whether water cooling is really worth it.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12687104*
> Minimum I was able to find was around $200 for something half decent... seeing how this is a very popular and well-known kit, I may get this just for it's price.. however, I hear that people have mounting problems with AM3 boards?
> 
> Approx. how many degrees C will this chill my CPU rather than having air cooling (Xigmatek HDT-1283).. still finding out whether water cooling is really worth it.


I could help answer that if you'd post your system specs, what clock are asking about?
I haven't seen/heard of any AMD mounting problems.


----------



## Buska103

It was directed as a general question of watercooling overall, but I'll update my system specs in my signature/whatever ASAP.


----------



## Haze80

my rasa 240rs on my antec 300








By null at 2011-03-09








By null at 2011-03-09








By null at 2011-03-09








By null at 2011-03-09


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12685752*
> AAAAAANNNNNDDDDDDDD... it is essentially still a custom loop. You can change any part at any time for whatever you want in the future.


and its a sexy kit dont forget....


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12685011*
> You have a bottom fan by any chance that you can use as intake? Those will normally shoot right into the GPU cooler.


Nope, only places for fans in this case are one front, one back, and two side panel.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Hey guys I ordered a kill coil along with my kit. Do I have to have it in a line that has a constant flow through it or could I put it in the line that I have t'd off for drain/fill?


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12688139*
> Hey guys I ordered a kill coil along with my kit. Do I have to have it in a line that has a constant flow through it or could I put it in the line that I have t'd off for drain/fill?


I would just drop it in the res


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12688181*
> I would just drop it in the res


this...


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12688181*
> I would just drop it in the res


Thank you, sir


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Woot! !! My kit just arrived in troutdale Oregon after not updating for 5 days


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12688365*
> Woot! !! My kit just arrived in troutdale Oregon after not updating for 5 days


Careful, I'm in Oregon.. I'll go swipe it


----------



## mbudden

:d


----------



## logan666

hey guys i just order my 2nd gpu waterblock can the pump that cums with this kit b ok with the cpu and 2 gpus or should i get a stronger pump cheers


----------



## pwnography6

Still no reply from any of my local stockers about when the 240 kits will be available again. Sigh. Getting impatient. Really dont want to order internationaly but its either that or maybe another kit at this point


----------



## bennieboi6969

go for the rx360 wish i had instead of the rs240


----------



## pwnography6

It wont fit in my case







only got a thermaltake A60 no room for modin even


----------



## bennieboi6969

mod and make it fit in the top of the case


----------



## Kahbrohn

For those who ask about static pressure for the GT AP-14/15 fans, here is some info I found that I think will be useful and will serve as a base of reference for you in the event you decide the GT's are too pricey.

- *Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B2AP-14* - 1450 RPM/50 CFM/21 DBA, _1.2954 mmH20 static pressure_, 3-pin power connector w/ 4-pin adapter, dual ball bearings.

- *Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B2AP-15* - 1850 RPM/57 CFM/28 DBA, _2.0574 mmH20 static pressure_, 3-pin power connector w/ 4-pin adapter, dual ball bearings.

Source: GND-Tech (More/Other fan info found on this site)


----------



## SpeedNuggeT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12688572*
> Careful, I'm in Oregon.. I'll go swipe it


Swiper no swiping!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12687104*
> Minimum I was able to find was around $200 for something half decent... seeing how this is a very popular and well-known kit, I may get this just for it's price.. however, I hear that people have mounting problems with AM3 boards?
> 
> Approx. how many degrees C will this chill my CPU rather than having air cooling (Xigmatek HDT-1283).. still finding out whether water cooling is really worth it.


Going from a high end cooler to this the max temperature dropped 12 degrees for my 965 overclocked to 4.0 Ghz with 1.5 volts. My max temp now is only 43C after 3 hours Prime 95.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12687104*
> Minimum I was able to find was around $200 for something half decent... seeing how this is a very popular and well-known kit, I may get this just for it's price.. however, I hear that people have mounting problems with AM3 boards?
> 
> Approx. how many degrees C will this chill my CPU rather than having air cooling (Xigmatek HDT-1283).. still finding out whether water cooling is really worth it.


I believe that the mounting problem on AM3 boards you are reading about is not really a problem. Normally, coolers come with motherboard backplates for mounting purposes. The XSPC kit does not come with an AM3 backplate BUT several members have come up with innovative ways to get around this without having to make additional investments.

FYI... the AM3 backplate XSPC sells runs at about $4-6 I believe I saw.

Option 1: In the OP there is a linked post on how to modify an existing backplate. This is an option to follow if you are not comfortable with option 3 below.

Option 2: Backplates of other coolers work. I initially used the Corsair H50 backplate with no problem whatsoever. The kit supplied black screws (Intel screws) fit perfectly.

Option 3: No backplate needed. I tried this option (using right now) and it works like a charm. Just use the kit supplied silver screws and you will be set.


----------



## bot21

I just order the rs360 kit today but i was just wondering how to perform long term maintenance to this kit any advice?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpeedNuggeT;12691353*
> Swiper no swiping!


ahahahah, i love that show. used to watch it with my daughter for hours a day. miss those times when she was still little.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bot21;12693308*
> I just order the rs360 kit today but i was just wondering how to perform long term maintenance to this kit any advice?


There isn't much to it. Clean it out once you get it, throw it together. Add PTNuke or Killcoil into the mix. Clean it out every 3 months or so.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

so tired of waiting. "on truck for delivery" but not here yet.......im gonna run to the store for smokes and get back and have a "we missed you" tag


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12692082*
> I believe that the mounting problem on AM3 boards you are reading about is not really a problem. Normally, coolers come with motherboard backplates for mounting purposes. The XSPC kit does not come with an AM3 backplate BUT several members have come up with innovative ways to get around this without having to make additional investments.
> 
> FYI... the AM3 backplate XSPC sells runs at about $4-6 I believe I saw.
> 
> Option 1: In the OP there is a linked post on how to modify an existing backplate. This is an option to follow if you are not comfortable with option 3 below.
> 
> Option 2: Backplates of other coolers work. I initially used the Corsair H50 backplate with no problem whatsoever. The kit supplied black screws (Intel screws) fit perfectly.
> 
> Option 3: No backplate needed. I tried this option (using right now) and it works like a charm. Just use the kit supplied silver screws and you will be set.


Well u can use the int screws came with the kit and force screw it with the amd stock bracket u got and it will work too...i got some pix on the last few pages..it work well too..ull get a pretty good pressure using it..and it looks more sexier than the amd bolts..try it out


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bot21;12693308*
> I just order the rs360 kit today but i was just wondering how to perform long term maintenance to this kit any advice?


What long term u talkin about???time wise?? Well to have it running clean and good every 3 months..or maybe every 6 months or if u want run it for a year with no maintainance at all if ur that kind of cheap or lazy..lolz..but for my kit ill be looking every 3 month change fluid and tube and clean rad and blocks..thats just me..so ita ur decision what u want to do.. =)


----------



## ttaylor0024

Hey everyone, I am starting a small business offering computer parts. The first partnership I got was with XSPC. I havnt placed an order for parts yet, but am just letting you all know that I will try my best to offer a lower price than any other company. I can get RS 120/240 kits, and RX 240/360s too, among every other XSPC product. If you are interested, shoot me a PM.

Thanks!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12694046*
> so tired of waiting. "on truck for delivery" but not here yet.......im gonna run to the store for smokes and get back and have a "we missed you" tag


Wow somebody's excited..just to let u know theres a plastic around the xspc cpu wb and theres another plastic covering the flat area of it..dont forget to take it out..hehehe excitement will let u forget those stuff wahahaha..patience my young apprentice..lolz


----------



## nicksasa

Heh, all motherboards already have an backplate for the stock cooler mounting.
I never saw the problem and i still don't.

The screws that come with the kit fit on them.


----------



## Buska103

What is the difference between RS and RX?

I'm planning to buy a 360 loop for the CPU, and I just realized the difference.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12696053*
> What is the difference between RS and RX?
> 
> I'm planning to buy a 360 loop for the CPU, and I just realized the difference.


The rad in the RS is a skinny, the rad in the RX is a fatty.


----------



## Buska103

$50 difference... what's recommended?


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12696053*
> What is the difference between RS and RX?
> 
> I'm planning to buy a 360 loop for the CPU, and I just realized the difference.


You'll want to look at the FAQ and see this post.

The RX is a thicker rad with lower fin density, so it can flow with low-med speed fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12696120*
> $50 difference... what's recommended?


Go big or go home.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksasa;12694971*
> Heh, all motherboards already have an backplate for the stock cooler mounting.
> I never saw the problem and i still don't.
> 
> The screws that come with the kit fit on them.


Well there 2 kind of screws came with kit..theres a silverish/steel finish screws thats for amd..and theres a black finish for intel..well what i did is just use the intel/black finish screws to the stock amd backplate..it screw in but not the same thread..all u need is a bit of force to screw in and it will re thread and it will go in fine..but the amd/silverish/steel finish bolts are a bit fat and wont screw in to the amd stock backplate..so they need to fabricate or cutom drill it to make a bigger hole to fit those fat bolts..is this what u talkin about??thats y u dont have any problems??


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12696127*
> 
> Go big or go home.


Yup his right..go for the rx and run low med fans that means u wont be too annoyed on ur fan noise..low to med speed = close to silent noise.. So go big or go home baby lolz...

do it right the first time..-i got my own words to lol-


----------



## Blue Destroyer

kit came. so did my i5 750 and motherboard but im in to much pain to open it up and play with it all. glad its here and dont have to keep watching the tracking.


----------



## liquoredonlife

For anyone interested in running a small 5" low flow (meaning relatively low resistance) filter in their system, I think I have all the parts figured out:

Pentek 158133 Filter housing








The Pentek 158133 is a Clear Filter Housing featuring 1/4" FPT. The 158133 takes 5" filters and is perfect for filtration in your RV or Camper (OR COMPUTER!). Clear makes it easy to see the visualize the flow rate.

The 158133, #5 Clear Filter Housing Specs:

* Dimensions: 7 3/8" x 4 5/8"
* Connections: 1/4" FPT
* Max Temp: 125 F (52C)
* Max Pressure: 125 psi
* Flow Rate: 3 gpm @ 2 psi (based on filter)

There's various filters you can use. The least resistance one is 30 GPH.

Pentek R30 478









Other available filters that you can probably use, but definitely don't recommend using in loop permanently due to restrictiveness. Only on setup/maintenance.
http://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-CBC-5-water-filters.asp
http://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-EMP-5C-carbon-filter.asp
http://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-C2-water-filters.asp
http://www.filtersfast.com/American-Plumber-WGC478-water-filters.asp

These filters use an NPT 1/4" fitting which is not compatible with the standard G1/4" we use in water cooling. So you'll need two NPT 1/4" male to G1/4" female adapters.
]

And of course, you'll need two more G1/4" fittings, be it barbs or compressions to integrate into your loop.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12697036*
> For anyone interested in running a small 5" low flow (meaning relatively low resistance) filter in their system, I think I have all the parts figured out:
> 
> Pentek 158133 Filter housing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Pentek 158133 is a Clear Filter Housing featuring 1/4" FPT. The 158133 takes 5" filters and is perfect for filtration in your RV or Camper (OR COMPUTER!). Clear makes it easy to see the visualize the flow rate.
> 
> The 158133, #5 Clear Filter Housing Specs:
> 
> * Dimensions: 7 3/8" x 4 5/8"
> * Connections: 1/4" FPT
> * Max Temp: 125 F (52C)
> * Max Pressure: 125 psi
> * Flow Rate: 3 gpm @ 2 psi (based on filter)
> 
> There's various filters you can use. The least resistance one is 30 GPH.
> 
> Pentek R30 478
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other available filters that you can probably use, but definitely don't recommend using in loop permanently due to restrictiveness. Only on setup/maintenance.
> http://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-CBC-5-water-filters.asp
> http://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-EMP-5C-carbon-filter.asp
> http://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-C2-water-filters.asp
> http://www.filtersfast.com/American-Plumber-WGC478-water-filters.asp
> 
> These filters use an NPT 1/4" fitting which is not compatible with the standard G1/4" we use in water cooling. So you'll need two NPT 1/4" male to G1/4" female adapters.
> ]
> 
> And of course, you'll need two more G1/4" fittings, be it barbs or compressions to integrate into your loop.


Why not just get a filter designed for watercooling?


----------



## SpeedNuggeT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12693572*
> ahahahah, i love that show. used to watch it with my daughter for hours a day. miss those times when she was still little.


Dora the explorer wasn't it? Good times mate.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpeedNuggeT;12697487*
> Dora the explorer wasn't it? Good times mate.


yep that and wonder pets. reminds me of just sitting with her and watcdhing tv together and playing all day when she was like 8 months old to 3 years old. im a disabled stay at home father now.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

So does this kit not come with screws to mount the fans, or am I a special case?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12697750*
> So does this kit not come with screws to mount the fans, or am I a special case?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Look close there in a peace of cardboard taped up.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12677181*
> No, I added you. I couldn't forget a interesting username like that. lol


Ok, than you.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12697773*
> Look close there in a peace of cardboard taped up.


Lol thank you! Rep for you as soon as I get on my computer =P

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## mbudden

Why would you need a filter for distilled water?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12698053*
> Why would you need a filter for distilled water?


Thats what I want to know







I think its to save the tubing from going bad like mine did?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Next question.. how come only half of the holes in my rad are tapped?


----------



## mbudden

I don't understand....?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

If holding the radiator with the ports towards me and to the bottom, only the right side has threads.. the left side just has holes with no threads.. If they had sent self-tapping screws, this wouldnt be a problem.


----------



## mbudden

Oh, for the rads. Yeah, I noticed the same thing... But I used force.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12698561*
> Oh, for the rads. Yeah, I noticed the same thing... But I used force.


alrighty, hard I shall push


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12697750*
> So does this kit not come with screws to mount the fans, or am I a special case?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


it should be on the same box as the radiator..and in the side wrap in a cardboard box...u got 3x4 bolts if u get the 360..but u need another 3x4 bolts if ur goin push pull...


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12698658*
> it should be on the same box as the radiator..and in the side wrap in a cardboard box...u got 3x4 bolts if u get the 360..but u need another 3x4 bolts if ur goin push pull...


They were hiding from me lol








Yeah, idk how much room I'll have left in my case should I decide to push/pull. I'll see how this works out for me. I've decided to wait on the AP-15's since they're impossible to find. Unfortunately, I'm left to stare at my kit until tuesday since my Shin-Etsu X23-7783D isnt here yet.










[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvfoU2CPVKQ&feature=player_profilepage]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvfoU2CPVKQ&feature=player_profilepage"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvfoU2CPVKQ&feature=player_profilepage[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12698053*
> Why would you need a filter for distilled water?


Well, water is corrosive. Pressurized water moreso. While it's not highly corrosive like strong acids or bases, purified water is more reactive, meaning it can form mild acids like carbonic acid (H2CO3) and pull particles from blocks, pump blades, radiators, etc. Not to scare anyone or anything, and I'm not going to suggest you need a filter. But I'm curious if anything would come out through filtering. I'm also not sure if I flushed my rad enough. Some folks had some severe flux issues with TC rads where 10-12 hot water rinses still yielded milky white water.

I'm a science geek and finished college with a degree bio chemistry years back. It's kind of fun seeing some of this stuff from lab make its way into my computer. I'm going to send some of the water drained out of my loop for testing with a friend who works in waste water treatment for the city.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Does anyone know what the thread pitch on the tapped holes is? I'll just get a tap at work rather than mickey mousing something.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


Does anyone know what the thread pitch on the tapped holes is? I'll just get a tap at work rather than mickey mousing something.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


6-32 for fan to rad screws.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12699025*
> Well, water is corrosive. Pressurized water moreso. While it's not highly corrosive like strong acids or bases, purified water is more reactive, meaning it can form mild acids like carbonic acid (H2CO3) and pull particles from blocks, pump blades, radiators, etc. Not to scare anyone or anything, and I'm not going to suggest you need a filter. *But I'm curious if anything would come out through filtering.* I'm also not sure if I flushed my rad enough. Some folks had some severe flux issues with TC rads where 10-12 hot water rinses still yielded milky white water.
> 
> I'm a science geek and finished college with a degree bio chemistry years back. It's kind of fun seeing some of this stuff from lab make its way into my computer. I'm going to send some of the water drained out of my loop for testing with a friend who works in waste water treatment for the city.


I am also curious and that's why I was asking. I also like science all though I did not major in it. My daughter is finishing up as a chem major bt her intention is to continue into medicine. if she can't get in, then she would continue in chemistry.

I had though about a filter back when I decided I wanted to WC my computer... but I though more along the lines of a fuel filter as in cars. Mainly for particulates more than anything else.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Lol u guys are going to hate me...haven't even opened my frozencpu box up. Still layed up in bed cause of my back. He'll I haven't even opened my new little i5 and motherboard that arrived yesterday


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12707449*
> Lol u guys are going to hate me...haven't even opened my frozencpu box up. Still layed up in bed cause of my back. He'll I haven't even opened my new little i5 and motherboard that arrived yesterday


Boooooooooooooo!

J/K... Hope you feel better. Know how that goes and you will be bent over that rig installing so just get better bro. Those heat pads work FWIW...


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Heat for 30, cold for 30. Over and over and over. Hydrocodone helps to. Seriously have not got out if bed except to use the bathroom. Hoping tomorrow will be better.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Heat for 30, cold for 30. Over and over and over. Hydrocodone helps to. Seriously have not got out if bed except to use the bathroom. Hoping tomorrow will be better.


I'm hoping sooner than tomorrow man, as this thread hasn't been over flowing my mailbox all evening long and I think I'm now going through withdrawal.

No, seriously get feeling better would ya? This thread is in need of serious enthusiasm from a fresh build.


----------



## pwnography6

As soon as they restock 240 kits in oz







il add my enthusiasm.


----------



## Penryn

I have enthusiasm.


----------



## Shane1244

Just get a H50, It's better and cheaper.<br />
<br />
<font color="White">Did you see what I did there? How many people will get mad? <br />
<br />
I'll be buying one of these when I build my new rig for college <img src="/images/smilies/gunner.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Gunner" class="inlineimg" /></font>


----------



## Dissentience

I see wat u did thar


----------



## The Sandman

<div style="margin:20px; margin-top:5px; ">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px">Quote:</div>
<table cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" border="0" width="99%">
<tr>
<td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset">

<div>
Originally Posted by <strong>Shane1244</strong>
<a href="showthread.php?s=34ef0cf377f7f84bfe5f471f00791160&p=12723549#post12723549" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="http://static.overclock.net//img/forum/go_quote.gif" border="0" alt="View Post" /></a>
</div>
<div style="font-style:italic">Just get a H50, It's better and cheaper.<br />
<br />
<font color="White">Did you see what I did there? How many people will get mad? <br />
<br />
I'll be buying one of these when I build my new rig for college <img src="/images/smilies/gunner.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Gunner" class="inlineimg" /></font></div>

</td>
</tr>
</table>
</div><img src="/images/smilies/lachen.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Lachen" class="inlineimg" /> Good one?


----------



## mbudden

Wow. This thread was dead today. There is usually like 5 pages a day lol.


----------



## pwnography6

i had a H50 there pretty overated sold it soon after purchase besides i wanna upgrade to "Real" water cooling.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12724025*
> Wow. This thread was dead today. There is usually like 5 pages a day lol.


Thats good! That means everyone's pc's are nice and cool


----------



## HiLuckyB

Here do my temps seem about right, Im @4.329 GHz (HT on) @1.36v full load and my hottest core is a 67C with a 20c ambient temp. This is with my RX360 3 GT AP-15 push exhaust and RX120 1 stock fan (ap-15 soon) push exhaust. I think the next time I pull the loop a part ill lapp my cpu block to get the tamps a little lower


----------



## mbudden

What TIM you using? Nab some Shin Etsu and see your temps drop a C or two more


----------



## Blue Destroyer

well finally opened my box up from frozencpu.com...pretty well packaged. 2 140mm green led yate loons, 2 120mm green led yate loons in a HUGE really thick bag, then the kit in a box. i was suprised to see a psu plug in it, thats pretty cool so i dont have to figure out what cables to jump, already has it done for me. frozencpu gets a A+ in my book. will take pics tomorow if im feeling up to it.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12724228*
> What TIM you using? Nab some Shin Etsu and see your temps drop a C or two more


You feel that Shin Etsu will out preform AS5 on these kits? That's what I used because it's always worked so well while I was air cooling. (and all I had lol)

If so is worth re-seating?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12724228*
> What TIM you using? Nab some Shin Etsu and see your temps drop a C or two more


Im using Arctic Silver Ceramique. Ive always and good luck with it on everything ive used it on







I had the same temp with just my RX360, So I was hoping the RX120 might drop a couple of C's but I guess not







O well


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12724246*
> well finally opened my box up from frozencpu.com...pretty well packaged. 2 140mm green led yate loons, 2 120mm green led yate loons in a HUGE really thick bag, then the kit in a box. i was suprised to see a psu plug in it, thats pretty cool so i dont have to figure out what cables to jump, already has it done for me. frozencpu gets a A+ in my book. will take pics tomorow if im feeling up to it.


I bought my kit from Frozen CPU. My box was packed nice and tight. A+ on the shipping.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12724357*
> You feel that Shin Etsu will out preform AS5 on these kits? That's what I used because it's always worked so well while I was air cooling. (and all I had lol)
> 
> If so is worth re-seating?


Shin x23 has proven to be a little bit better than AS5. Personally, I use AS5 since it's so readily available to me without having to buy it online. (Radio Shack) If you got your mount right the first time, no need to redo it.

I know I got my mount right the first time lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12724378*
> Im using Arctic Silver Ceramique. Ive always and good luck with it on everything ive used it on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same temp with just my RX360, So I was hoping the RX120 might drop a couple of C's but I guess not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> O well


Ah. I use that on my GPU WB. Maybe you'll see a drop, who knows until you install it. Unless you already did lol.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12724407*
> Ah. I use that on my GPU WB. Maybe you'll see a drop, who knows until you install it. Unless you already did lol.


I did install it, And its running at the same temp. I just thought it would of come down at least 1c but I got nothing







I might remount the cpu block if I get board one day. I really added it to get ready for a gpu when I move away from my 5770 tri-fire


----------



## Annex

Would there be any cooling decrease to the CPU by adding an rx120 rad and crossfire 6870's to my current loop?


----------



## BubbleFighter

Guys, i've just got the rasa Rx 240 kit, and temps for me are honestly not as good as i expected. Do these temps seem right?

67
64
67
61
I am at 4ghz, 1.2650v in bios, with Level 1 Load line calibration.
The radiator is mounted at the top of my haf 932, Gentle typhoons Pull.
I have just recently taken the gunk out of my block, but temps didn't change.

Edit: ambient is around 20c


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BubbleFighter;12725688*
> Guys, i've just got the rasa Rx 240 kit, and temps for me are honestly not as good as i expected. Do these temps seem right?
> 
> 67
> 64
> 67
> 61
> I am at 4ghz, 1.2650v in bios, with Level 1 Load line calibration.
> The radiator is mounted at the top of my haf 932, Gentle typhoons Pull.
> I have just recently taken the gunk out of my block, but temps didn't change.
> 
> Edit: ambient is around 20c


What were you getting before? I think I get about the 65c-66c max with full LinX or Prime 95 after a few hours, but I run higher voltage and my ambient is 22-23C. I'm also running a RX360, not a 240.


----------



## Penryn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12726795*
> What were you getting before? I think I get about the 65c-66c max with full LinX or Prime 95 after a few hours, but I run higher voltage and my ambient is 22-23C. I'm also running a RX360, not a 240.


You guys are lucky =/ I am hitting 80C. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I am at 1.296 though.


----------



## rmp459

Any one here using these kits develop a rust colored hue to their tubes?

Im using primochill tubing, 1-2 drops of pt nuke, silver coil and distilled. Flushed everything beforehand with hot 90% alcohol & water mix. Fluid is crystal clear in the resevoir, but the tubing has this awful yellow hue.


----------



## mbudden

It's called Plasticizer.


----------



## Penryn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmp459;12727017*
> Any one here using these kits develop a rust colored hue to their tubes?
> 
> Im using primochill tubing, 1-2 drops of pt nuke, silver coil and distilled. Flushed everything beforehand with hot 90% alcohol & water mix. Fluid is crystal clear in the resevoir, but the tubing has this awful yellow hue.


It's odd some people had this happen within a few weeks and so far I have no sign of it after a little over a week. Then again... it may be on it's way. But I also had water in my res when it was delivered which I found odd...


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmp459;12727017*
> Any one here using these kits develop a rust colored hue to their tubes?


So far this has not happen to me.


----------



## rmp459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12727286*
> It's called Plasticizer.


Thats what I figure, but It just seems so strange even with decent tubing it didnt show up right away, but once it started it only took a few days to look pretty meh.


----------



## Havoknova

Those intel burn hot..mines 62 max on 4.3ghz..ill try to go 4.5ghz and check where my temps are..at 75f ambient...my 4.0ghz runs max about 48c...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12724190*
> Here do my temps seem about right, Im @4.329 GHz (HT on) @1.36v full load and my hottest core is a 67C with a 20c ambient temp. This is with my RX360 3 GT AP-15 push exhaust and RX120 1 stock fan (ap-15 soon) push exhaust. I think the next time I pull the loop a part ill lapp my cpu block to get the tamps a little lower


Sounds about right...4.3 hovers around 60's..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12724357*
> You feel that Shin Etsu will out preform AS5 on these kits? That's what I used because it's always worked so well while I was air cooling. (and all I had lol)
> 
> If so is worth re-seating?


Well my TIM is not a as5 or shin..i got a noctua TIM and it performs well on my watercooling setup..


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BubbleFighter;12725688*
> Guys, i've just got the rasa Rx 240 kit, and temps for me are honestly not as good as i expected. Do these temps seem right?
> 
> 67
> 64
> 67
> 61
> I am at 4ghz, 1.2650v in bios, with Level 1 Load line calibration.
> The radiator is mounted at the top of my haf 932, Gentle typhoons Pull.
> I have just recently taken the gunk out of my block, but temps didn't change.
> 
> Edit: ambient is around 20c


I get 40C+ambient on 4.0GHz @ 1.25V.
RS240 kit.


----------



## hot120

I use the 'Delta' rule of thumb that was outlined in a post by the owner of Swiftech. He stated the Swiftech H20 kits have a delta of around 42c-45c. So, I gauge my kit's cooling power off those numbers. With an ambient of 25c, my max temp should be around 67c-70c with a similar CPU clock/voltage.

Edit: Found the original post. It really helped me to understand water cooling temperature measurements and expectations.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/829803-swiftech-h20-220-way-too-high-6.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BubbleFighter;12725688*
> Guys, i've just got the rasa Rx 240 kit, and temps for me are honestly not as good as i expected. Do these temps seem right?
> 
> 67
> 64
> 67
> 61
> I am at 4ghz, 1.2650v in bios, with Level 1 Load line calibration.
> The radiator is mounted at the top of my haf 932, Gentle typhoons Pull.
> I have just recently taken the gunk out of my block, but temps didn't change.
> 
> Edit: ambient is around 20c


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BubbleFighter;12725688*
> Guys, i've just got the rasa Rx 240 kit, and temps for me are honestly not as good as i expected. Do these temps seem right?
> 
> 67
> 64
> 67
> 61
> I am at 4ghz, 1.2650v in bios, with Level 1 Load line calibration.
> The radiator is mounted at the top of my haf 932, Gentle typhoons Pull.
> I have just recently taken the gunk out of my block, but temps didn't change.
> 
> Edit: ambient is around 20c


That's quite high..4.0 needs to hover around 40's..


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12728878*
> That's quite high..4.0 needs to hover around 40's..


Those temperatures don't look at all bad for an i7 with 240 rad if they are Prime95 or Linpack load temps.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penryn;12726913*
> You guys are lucky =/ I am hitting 80C. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I am at 1.296 though.


Holy molly!!!!!!

U can fry an egg on that temps..

Try to check coz somethings wrong...


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12728878*
> That's quite high..4.0 needs to hover around 40's..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12729161*
> Holy molly!!!!!!
> 
> U can fry an egg on that temps..
> 
> Try to check coz somethings wrong...


AMD is different.

4GHz+ i7 will idle @ ~40C.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;12728950*
> Those temperatures don't look at all bad for an i7 with 240 rad if they are Prime95 or Linpack load temps.


Well if his running cpu only loop thats high...im not an intel person so i cant compare..i thought my setup and temps are bad but i guess im just doin fine then..


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12729282*
> Well if his running cpu only loop thats high...im not an intel person so i cant compare..i thought my setup and temps are bad but i guess im just doin fine then..


You really can't compare Intel and AMD temps like that, for AMD those temps would be really bad, for Intel load temps they are just fine.


----------



## ahhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000;12729258*
> AMD is different.
> 
> 4GHz+ i7 will idle @ ~40C.


I concur. I'm getting low to mid 30s @4GHz with a top mount RS240. (although it's not exactly warm in my basement...lol)


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000;12729258*
> AMD is different.
> 
> 4GHz+ i7 will idle @ ~40C.


Thats what im thinking about..good to know..well i guess there temps are alright then..keep up the good work =)


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12729368*
> I concur. I'm getting low to mid 30s @4GHz with a top mount RS240. (although it's not exactly warm in my basement...lol)


Wow..i wish i got a man cave like you do..hehehe..nice temps for a rs240 on an intel socket..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ahhell*


I concur. I'm getting low to mid 30s @4GHz with a top mount RS240. (although it's not exactly warm in my basement...lol)


I got number like those once... Then Mrs. Kah ordered me to get the rig out of her refrigerator.


----------



## BubbleFighter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I bought my kit from Frozen CPU. My box was packed nice and tight. A+ on the shipping.

Shin x23 has proven to be a little bit better than AS5. Personally, I use AS5 since it's so readily available to me without having to buy it online. (Radio Shack) If you got your mount right the first time, no need to redo it.

I know I got my mount right the first time lol.

Ah. I use that on my GPU WB. Maybe you'll see a drop, who knows until you install it. Unless you already did lol.


What method do you use for applying AS5? I always get horrible temps with AS5.


----------



## skyn3t

hey guys quick question , what the best XSPC RASA for my sig RIG? with options on rad inside and outside the case


----------



## selectstriker2

using my RS240 mounted outside my Vulcan and with my i7 970 at 4.2 Ghz with HT I see idles from 27-34 C and loads up to 68 C

edit: the load temps are also with my GTX470 dumping air full blast into the rad ~(75c temp on GPU)


----------



## AMDMAXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12730665*
> I got number like those once... Then Mrs. Kah ordered me to get the rig out of her refrigerator.


lol my i7 only hits 45-47 degrees at load with my rs240 (sits at 30-32 idle though it clocks down to 1.6 Ghz)... its pretty warm in my room too...

edit when at 4 Ghz... lol


----------



## Blue Destroyer

this may sound like a dumb question, but why is there NO instructions in my kit? does it not come with any "how to" instructions?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


this may sound like a dumb question, but why is there NO instructions in my kit? does it not come with any "how to" instructions?


Nope..no instructions..coz they go with "you know how to" lolz..

Its pretty easy..and were here to help u if u got any question..


----------



## Blue Destroyer

just looking at all the parts and thinking "what the hell did i do" lol. got it all laid out on my table right now. trying to imagin it in my 2 systems. one is a scout and one is a lian-li v1200b. neither are made for water cooling so trying to figure how i would mount this kit. one idea i had is to cut the top out of the lian-li to do a kinda internal/external mount. either that or i have to cut holes to mount it outside for the lines to feed in..


----------



## thrasherht

really people. I mean it is seriously 6 barbs with tubes connecting everything. I mean think about how water cooling works.

water is pulled from something using a pump, which then pushes the water through the system, you need it to run through you water block so that is probably a good place run your tubing, and the block says in and out, so it is probably good to have the water flow going into the in and out of the out, then after that you need to cool the water some how, so you want it to run through the rad, so you should run the tubing there, then you need the water to return to its origin, so you should run the tubing back to the res where it came from.

I mean really people, if you can't at least somewhat figure out how to put together a water cooler without instructions, I feel you shouldnt' be allowed to use water cooling, because it probably means you also don't know how to overclock.


----------



## Havoknova

Ok if u want straight forward answer...where all the lines are crossed read his post above me...hehehe...


----------



## 10acjed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


just looking at all the parts and thinking "what the hell did i do" lol. got it all laid out on my table right now. trying to imagin it in my 2 systems. one is a scout and one is a lian-li v1200b. neither are made for water cooling so trying to figure how i would mount this kit. one idea i had is to cut the top out of the lian-li to do a kinda internal/external mount. either that or i have to cut holes to mount it outside for the lines to feed in..


Use some imagination.... Basically you want it to pump through the rad and into the block then back to the res/pump...

Where to put it is another story that takes imagination and creativity when using a smaller case.. Stop thinking cosmetic beauty and start thinking best placement..


----------



## JedixJarf

Just ordered the RX 360 kit


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*


Just ordered the RX 360 kit










Nice!!!! Update us when u got ur rig setup..


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*


Just ordered the RX 360 kit










It's a nice kit.







Welcome!


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


this may sound like a dumb question, but why is there NO instructions in my kit? does it not come with any "how to" instructions?


There are no instructions because it's not designed for a specific case in mind. It's a kit of independently available parts that you put together based on how you want. This is also why the tube isn't pre-cut. And while this XSPC OCN thread is really long, the FAQ is helpful. The time you spent waiting for your item to arrive, instead of *****ing and moaning in this thread about FedEx, was the time you should've spent researching on how not to **** this up. This is not really much different from buying off the shelf components that wouldn't come with instructions. They just bundled it together for you and took 30% off.

If you are completely new to the concept of introducing a sealed liquid cooling system into a computer, how to turn a screw, how to push a tube onto a nozzle, how to pour water into a hole, how to install a cpu water block, how to connect a molex power connector, how to apply thermal paste, and more- just search out on youtube. There are so many helpful videos out there.

Just some quick recommendations before you go doing anything:

Do not power the pump/reservoir unless it is full of water.
Soften the tube with hot distilled water when you're ready to push onto a barb.
Rinse the radiator with hot distilled water. Multiple times.
There is no backplate if you're using this with an AMD. You can either use the stock one or run without one (which you'd use those long screws with springs).


----------



## Blue Destroyer

i understand the concept of how it works. inlet/outlet stuff like that. my problem is im trying to figure out what case is best and then how to mount it best. neither of my cases are made for water cooling. think i might order a new case this week when my rebates arrive. be better then cutting holes into a case that i still havent figured out if i like or not(lian, not the scout)


----------



## JedixJarf

Will update y'all when i get it in, also ordered 2 6970 blocks as well.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12743179*
> really people. I mean it is seriously 6 barbs with tubes connecting everything. I mean think about how water cooling works.
> 
> water is pulled from something using a pump, which then pushes the water through the system, you need it to run through you water block so that is probably a good place run your tubing, and the block says in and out, so it is probably good to have the water flow going into the in and out of the out, then after that you need to cool the water some how, so you want it to run through the rad, so you should run the tubing there, then you need the water to return to its origin, so you should run the tubing back to the res where it came from.
> 
> I mean really people, if you can't at least somewhat figure out how to put together a water cooler without instructions, I feel you shouldnt' be allowed to use water cooling, because it probably means you also don't know how to overclock.


While your point was clear, seems a little harsh.

I thought everyone was able to post on here without such repercussions wow. OCN is a lot better than so many other forums for just this reason.

Sorry, just had to share my thoughts here, as you did.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12743715*
> i understand the concept of how it works. inlet/outlet stuff like that. my problem is im trying to figure out what case is best and then how to mount it best. neither of my cases are made for water cooling. think i might order a new case this week when my rebates arrive. be better then cutting holes into a case that i still havent figured out if i like or not(lian, not the scout)


You would have externally mount the radiator on the Scout and would have to modify the LianLi to mount an internal radiator in the floor. If you have the RX360 kit, and need a new case, the CM HAF 932 or X are the simplest cases to mount them into IMO.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;12743735*
> Will update y'all when i get it in, also ordered 2 6970 blocks as well.


You're going to run the RX360 for CPU and dual GPUs I assume then.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12743755*
> While your point was clear, seems a little harsh.
> 
> I thought everyone was able to post on here without such repercussions wow. OCN is a lot better than so many other forums for just this reason.
> 
> Sorry, just had to share my thoughts here, as you did.


It was harsh because there are tons of people that ask it, but you have to remember, this is a custom kit, it doesn't come with instructions because if you buy custom parts you won't get instructions.

another thing, if you go check the stickies for water cooling juggulo has posted videos on how to setup water cooling.

Honestly I think that if people can't figure out a water cooling system on their own they shouldn't be allowed to use them. It take a whole like 2 minutes of googling to figure it out, and a bit of common sense.


----------



## ahhell

What think is most helpful to noobies (like me) are the little gotchas to look out for.

Hooking the system up isn't a big deal. Doing it the right way and not making a big mess of it is a different story.


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12743865*
> You're going to run the RX360 for CPU and dual GPUs I assume then.


You are correct.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

I agree for the most part but everyone was new to something once and with responses like this, its sure to turn them away. Did you ever think this is where google brought them? Maybe they just stopped searching after one query?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## spoolindsm127

I have to agree with thrasher on this one..

I had my WC setup all planned out in my head wayy before I even received my kit.

And this thread being so damn large doesn't help either. No one bothers to read through it all and the same type of questions are asked repeatedly.

And TBH I hate the "which kit is best for my rig?" questions. I mean come on







Asking for advice on which to choose is another thing. It shows you put some thought into it at least.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;12744031*
> You are correct.


Knowing what my 2 6870s put out, I'm not even gonna try a single RX360 for all three. Gonna add another RX360 rad and maybe go dual loop.


----------



## Havoknova

I got a new setup goin to happen here in a few weeks..

My original rig is goin to have a major overhaul and goin to be "HAVOK X-WING"

2x360 rads on the back of my case and will look like A jet fighter..lolz..and will have black tubing and alot of new fittings,new res,new pump and new video card with full cover...

2x360 and 1x240 = overkill..lolz..


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12744283*
> I got a new setup goin to happen here in a few weeks..
> 
> My original rig is goin to have a major overhaul and goin to be "HAVOK X-WING"
> 
> 2x360 rads on the back of my case and will look like A jet fighter..lolz..and will have black tubing and alot of new fittings,new res,new pump and new video card with full cover...
> 
> 2x360 and 1x240 = overkill..lolz..


Sounds like typical OCN overkill, LOL!
Maybe I need to go 3 RX360 rads now!!!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12744335*
> Sounds like typical OCN overkill, LOL!
> Maybe I need to go 3 RX360 rads now!!!


Sound like a freakin fatality in mortal combat

"finish him" "OVERKILL" lolz...


----------



## Jobotoo

Stop it!!!! Your making me want another RAD . . .


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12745632*
> Stop it!!!! Your making me want another RAD . . .


I was thinking of adding possibly 2 120s in my HAF 932 WC loop, but now I going to a M8 case soon, so there will be RX360s everywhere, LOL!


----------



## Havoknova

omg radiator invasion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## juche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;12743735*
> Will update y'all when i get it in, also ordered 2 6970 blocks as well.


Which block did you order? I have a 6950 and was contemplating water cooling it once I get this.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Uhh.. went to take off my stock cooler and it pulled my cpu right of the socket

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12746914*
> Uhh.. went to take off my stock cooler and it pulled my cpu right of the socket
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I've had that happen when using Ceramique on 775 chip. Gotta wiggle heatsink first before pulling off.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12747034*
> I've had that happen when using Ceramique on 775 chip. Gotta wiggle heatsink first before pulling off.


lol freaked me out. I've never had that happen before, had to double check to see if all the pins were there =P


----------



## Buska103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12747034*
> I've had that happen when using Ceramique on 775 chip. Gotta wiggle heatsink first before pulling off.


Had my CPU get pulled off before too (PhenII). Also using Ceramique.

I would suggest to turn on your computer and run Prime95 (or whatever..) to heat up the paste, then turn it off, wiggle the heatsink, and take it off carefully.
It works for me....


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12747242*
> Had my CPU get pulled off before too (PhenII). Also using Ceramique.
> 
> I would suggest to turn on your computer and run Prime95 (or whatever..) to heat up the paste, then turn it off, wiggle the heatsink, and take it off carefully.
> It works for me....


Thats odd, Ive never had Ceramique do that only stock tim. Ive used Ceramique on at least 10 different things, And its always come off nice and easy


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12743831*
> You would have externally mount the radiator on the Scout and would have to modify the LianLi to mount an internal radiator in the floor. If you have the RX360 kit, and need a new case, the CM HAF 932 or X are the simplest cases to mount them into IMO.


You can mount rads inside the Scout. A 120 fits in the back, a 240 or 360 can be mounted in the front with very little cutting. I did my case in about 10 mins and only used 2 cutting wheels.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12621287*
> ok guys on my rasa block i just use the intel bolts (black bolts)
> 
> used a little bit of force to put it in the back plate..it will be easy to bolt it on on the second try...its like retreading i guess...but it works...
> 
> pressure wise i went and did 3 grove on each side...
> 
> its getting sexier every minute!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Havok, how on earth did you manage this? The threads on those are smaller than the one on the back plate.. Unless you threaded the shank with the back plate threads when you forced them.. I'm kinda at a stand still with my block..


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12747308*
> You can mount rads inside the Scout. A 120 fits in the back, a 240 or 360 can be mounted in the front with very little cutting. I did my case in about 10 mins and only used 2 cutting wheels.


If you mount a 360 rad inside the front of a Scout case, where is dual 5.25" reservoir gonna go?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12747520*
> If you mount a 360 rad inside the front of a Scout case, where is dual 5.25" reservoir gonna go?


Oops forgot about that part, new pump and res?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12748371*
> Oops forgot about that part, new pump and res?


LOL, better off pulling the trigger on a new CM 932 case. That's what I have and I still have all six 5.25' bays with a top mounted RX360 radiator and fans inside. All my bays are occupied also, with the top bay used for a fan controller.


----------



## Quccu

Hi, I have a question: How much better temps would the RX360 give over RX240 if I'm just cooling a CPU only.

I'm contemplating as to whether I should get the RX360 kit, which I will need to mod my Silverstone RV02 case to fit it, and I don't really want to do this unless I really have to.

Or RX240 kit, which does not require me to mod the case but is sold out in all Australia PC stores and I'd have to wait who knows how long.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12748459*
> LOL, better off pulling the trigger on a new CM 932 case. That's what I have and I still have all six 5.25' bays with a top mounted RX360 radiator and fans inside. All my bays are occupied also, with the top bay used for a fan controller.


Nope, if you have a Scout RX120 in the back and RX240 up front







I love the lay out of all the HAF's but I hate the looks. They are a love or hate case. I wish they would of gone with the Sniper design over the HAF's or better yet both.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quccu;12748670*
> Hi, I have a question: How much better temps would the RX360 give over RX240 if I'm just cooling a CPU only.
> 
> I'm contemplating as to whether I should get the RX360 kit, which I will need to mod my Silverstone RV02 case to fit it, and I don't really want to do this unless I really have to.
> 
> Or RX240 kit, which does not require me to mod the case but is sold out in all Australia PC stores and I'd have to wait who knows how long.


RX360 is overkill for a CPU only loop, but why not get the 360, mod the case, and add the GPU to the loop? Don't quote me but I think you can mount a 360 on the back if you want to go that route.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12748748*
> RX360 is overkill for a CPU only loop, but why not get the 360, mod the case, and add the GPU to the loop? Don't quote me but I think you can mount a 360 on the back if you want to go that route.


I recommend the RX360 because most will always want to add a GPU later on.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12748698*
> Nope, if you have a Scout RX120 in the back and RX240 up front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the lay out of all the HAF's but I hate the looks. They are a love or hate case. I wish they would of gone with the Sniper design over the HAF's or better yet both.


That's a lot of work for someone trying to get into water cooling. They will get way over their head really fast.


----------



## Quccu

I was wanting to put it inside the case as people on here have shown pics of really dirty rads all covered in dust from mounting it outside the case.

Also I'm a noise crazy person, and I think having the radiator with fans on the outside would produce more noise. That's why I prefer inside.

As for GPU into the loop, I don't really want to spend money on a GTX460 waterblock as it's $99 from pccasegear.com, which is more than half the price of the XSPC kit! =(

Temperature wise for CPU only, any difference between RX240 and RX360?


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quccu;12749131*
> I was wanting to put it inside the case as people on here have shown pics of really dirty rads all covered in dust from mounting it outside the case.
> 
> Also I'm a noise crazy person, and I think having the radiator with fans on the outside would produce more noise. That's why I prefer inside.
> 
> As for GPU into the loop, I don't really want to spend money on a GTX460 waterblock as it's $99 from pccasegear.com, which is more than half the price of the XSPC kit! =(
> 
> Temperature wise for CPU only, any difference between RX240 and RX360?


Do you think its gonna get less dusty inside the case? Also you could get the rasa block for your 460 they only run about $50


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12747326*
> Havok, how on earth did you manage this? The threads on those are smaller than the one on the back plate.. Unless you threaded the shank with the back plate threads when you forced them.. I'm kinda at a stand still with my block..


basically the black bolts got different thread than the amd back plate...so just force it in...and it will go in Easy if u reach half way in...hehehe...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quccu;12749131*
> I was wanting to put it inside the case as people on here have shown pics of really dirty rads all covered in dust from mounting it outside the case.
> 
> Also I'm a noise crazy person, and I think having the radiator with fans on the outside would produce more noise. That's why I prefer inside.
> 
> As for GPU into the loop, I don't really want to spend money on a GTX460 waterblock as it's $99 from pccasegear.com, which is more than half the price of the XSPC kit! =(
> 
> Temperature wise for CPU only, any difference between RX240 and RX360?


An RX240 or 360 is what you'll want for noise, since they work well with low to mid speed fans. The RS series radiators which are thinner, have higher FPI and need higher speed fans to drive through the denser cooling fins. What case is this going into?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12749171*
> well just force the black bolts in the stock amd back plate....basically the black bolts got different thread with the amd back plate...so i just force it in...and it will go in half way...hehehe...


----------



## Quccu

@ezveedub it's getting into a Silverstone RV02 Case. I believe the RX240 on top of the bottom case fans in RV02 won't reach the GPU's on the left. RX360 will however, therefore will have to remove the bottom RV02 case fan - the bottom case fans is really the whole point of the RV02. I know, bad case for watercooling right? =(

@microman I do believe it will be less dusty inside the case as the RV02 as good filters. As for $50 WB's - pccasegear.com is usually the cheapest place in Australia to get items. They only have EK 460 WB's $99. USA has some cheap places, but shipment costs to Australia makes it no point to purchase from overseas.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quccu;12749354*
> @ezveedub it's getting into a Silverstone RV02 Case. I believe the RX240 on top of the bottom case fans in RV02 won't reach the GPU's on the left. RX360 will however, therefore will have to remove the bottom RV02 case fan - the bottom case fans is really the whole point of the RV02. I know, bad case for watercooling right? =(
> 
> @microman I do believe it will be less dusty inside the case as the RV02 as good filters. As for $50 WB's - pccasegear.com is usually the cheapest place in Australia to get items. They only have EK 460 WB's $99. USA has some cheap places, but shipment costs to Australia makes it no point to purchase from overseas.


It looks like a 240 rad works on the bottom on top of the fans no problem (I know someone on here posted pics of that case). But you could possibly do a RS360 in the bottom, but only two fans on top (you'll have more coolant reverse). I'm not sure if a 120 in the roof is feasible to add on. It may work, but I can't tell. A 240 and 120 setup maybe.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12749245*


bahaha.. Yeah, I managed. This is only temporary, mind you. I'm ordering the correct amd back plate. Slightly frustrated that they would send the block bracket but not the back plate.

ANYway.. I am now one of you!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12749862*
> bahaha.. Yeah, I managed. This is only temporary, mind you. I'm ordering the correct amd back plate. Slightly frustrated that they would send the block bracket but not the back plate.
> 
> ANYway.. I am now one of you!


I see you got a T fitting for a drain there. I think its best in the reservoir inlet to get the most out of the system though, but not critical.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I see you got a T fitting for a drain there. I think its best in the reservoir inlet to get the most out of the system though, but not critical.


Oh, thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to do it that way when I redo my tubing =D. I wish I had a better place to tinker with my computer than a folding card table lol. between that and my half-assed cell phone pictures









Edit: Oh!- I was jumping the psu to run the pump so I could shake the ever-loving piss out of my computer in hopes of jarring loose the air bubbles in the rad. what a pita


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


Oh, thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to do it that way when I redo my tubing =D. I wish I had a better place to tinker with my computer than a folding card table lol. between that and my half-assed cell phone pictures









Edit: Oh!- I was jumping the psu to run the pump so I could shake the ever-loving piss out of my computer in hopes of jarring loose the air bubbles in the rad. what a pita


Simply run the system and top off while its running. Then tip the front of the case up slightly to get air to come up to reservoir. You can tip the back up also to get air out of the radiator while its running based on how yours is installed.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

how are you liking your 932? I've been looking for a reason to axe it. there's like no room for cable management. Every time I unscrew the back panel, I can't stand directly in front of it in fear of being knocked over.


----------



## shineon2011

So before I pull the trigger on the 360 kit, this will fit in a Haf 932 and I'm assuming just the top bay will be blocked according to the above pictures.


----------



## Quccu

Thanks for the advice ezveedub! Appreciated it.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shineon2011*


So before I pull the trigger on the 360 kit, this will fit in a Haf 932 and I'm assuming just the top bay will be blocked according to the above pictures.


If you get the RX360, like I just installed, it will block about 1.5 bays. Not a problem for me since I only have:

[Lamptron FC5v2]
[nothing]
[nothing]
[res/pump]
[res/pump]
[ODD]

Stock farns arent nearly as loud as I thought they'd be and my pump makes absolutely no noise at all. I was actually afraid that it wasnt running







. No leaks (didnt leak test it really d'oh) and its staying at 41c while playing the crysis 2 demo. IF you're concerned with cm /wrist.


----------



## ezveedub

I haven't had any cable management issues. I routed my unused cables down into the lower and rear case grooves inside the case where the panel meets the case. If you have a lot of cables, you'll have to tie wrap them to the case wire hold down loops. For me, I'm using almost all my cables, so there isn't a bunch of them stacked behind the mobo tray.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *juche*


Which block did you order? I have a 6950 and was contemplating water cooling it once I get this.


Rockin the EK Nickel + Acrylic top block on my 6950. Unlocked using a 6970 bios, I haven't tried the modded 6950 bios yet. Running 6970 bios/memory speeds (880/1375 over 800/1250 stock). Didn't go acetal cause I wanted to see inside.

On idle, it sits at 31C (ambient 22C, water temp 25-26C). At load playing SC2, I've never seen it get above 39C with fans at medium.


----------



## AJsez

Hi!
I would like some advice please. I have cm690 II Advance case. I already have Rs240 kit, but I change the rad to a Black Ice GTX 240. Its mounted at the bottom as intake. (4 yate loon D12sh push-pull) I'm would like to mount the spare rs240 rad at the top. Is it better to run it as intake or exhaust? Thanks.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AJsez*


Hi!
I would like some advice please. I have cm690 II Advance case. I already have Rs240 kit, but I change the rad to a Black Ice GTX 240. Its mounted at the bottom as intake. (4 yate loon D12sh push-pull) I'm would like to mount the spare rs240 rad at the top. Is it better to run it as intake or exhaust? Thanks.


Exhaust, Heat rises


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


bahaha.. Yeah, I managed. This is only temporary, mind you. I'm ordering the correct amd back plate. Slightly frustrated that they would send the block bracket but not the back plate.

ANYway.. I am now one of you!



























Looking sexy...told yea that intel bolts will bolt in fine wahahahah...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AJsez*


Hi!
I would like some advice please. I have cm690 II Advance case. I already have Rs240 kit, but I change the rad to a Black Ice GTX 240. Its mounted at the bottom as intake. (4 yate loon D12sh push-pull) I'm would like to mount the spare rs240 rad at the top. Is it better to run it as intake or exhaust? Thanks.


Exhaust.. Top mount always exhaust..


----------



## KillerMike84

Well first i have few ?'s i just buy first XSPC DC 450 Water Cooling Kit XSPC G1/4" to 1/2" barb fitting Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Red Primoflex Nylon Reusable Hose Clamp - Black - 5/8" OD Swiftech 1/2" Aluminum Remote Fill-Port Fitting - Black (1/2"FPF-AL) PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft pack) i look around that just to use Distilled Water no dry or anything do u guys think Feser Aqua Non Conductive Ultra Pure Water - 1000 ml (FA-0054) one bottle is good or do i need more for my system just make sure hit me up back ASAP thank you    
 You Tube


----------



## Garanthor

The Feser water is a rip off. Just buy some distilled water from you local drug store (a couple of liters is plenty) add some PT Nuke (or some other type biocide if you wish...not totally necessary) and a silver kill coil and you're good to go.


----------



## XxGrave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KillerMike84*


Well first i have few ?'s i just buy first XSPC DC 450 Water Cooling Kit XSPC G1/4" to 1/2" barb fitting Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Red Primoflex Nylon Reusable Hose Clamp - Black - 5/8" OD Swiftech 1/2" Aluminum Remote Fill-Port Fitting - Black (1/2"FPF-AL) PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft pack) i look around that just to use Distilled Water no dry or anything do u guys think Feser Aqua Non Conductive Ultra Pure Water - 1000 ml (FA-0054) one bottle is good or do i need more for my system just make sure hit me up back ASAP thank you


Go to walmart and pick up a gallon or two of distilled water. Put a drop or two of PT nuke or a kill coil in the res. 

EDIT: Garanthor beat me to the punch.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XxGrave*


Go to walmart and pick up a gallon or two of distilled water. Put a drop or two of PT nuke or a kill coil in the res. 

EDIT: Garanthor beat me to the punch.


















What he said.


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


The Feser water is a rip off. Just buy some distilled water from you local drug store (a couple of liters is plenty) add some PT Nuke (or some other type biocide if you wish...not totally necessary) and a silver kill coil and you're good to go.










 I'm not going put any dye can be a problem in the run PT Nuke or silver kill coil i know for or rust something were can i buy that i have everything just distilled water go wall E world for that thanks you guys now i know that I'm ready for this project now


----------



## XxGrave

Might be able to get some 3-5% copper sulfate in the aquarium part of wal-mart (or go to a pets mart or something). Same stuff as PT Nuke. Kill coil is just a pure silver coil. Can get it from any of the water cooling sites. Frozencpu ETC


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XxGrave*


Might be able to get some 3-5% copper sulfate in the aquarium part of wal-mart (or go to a pets mart or something). Same stuff as PT Nuke. Kill coil is just a pure silver coil. Can get it from any of the water cooling sites. Frozencpu ETC


how about this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/70...86&id=QNDbxAJG


----------



## XxGrave

Get this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...tl=g30c103s186

and this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...tl=g30c103s186

and the distilled water at wally world. You will be good to go.

Using both is prolly overkill. I'd use one drop of the copper sulfate and the kill coil in the res.


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XxGrave*


Get this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...tl=g30c103s186

and this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...tl=g30c103s186

and the distilled water at wally world. You will be good to go.

Using both is prolly overkill. I'd use one drop of the copper sulfate and the kill coil in the res.


IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip 
how do use that stuff cut or something damn well to much stuff i will go with drops better because i use my res I'm going clean anyways so i don't think need the silver strip does it stay blue just make sure it doesnt my look its all red loop if u can see from my pictures


----------



## XxGrave

You take it out of the container. Throw it in res. Forget about it. Either way will work







Good luck to ya


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XxGrave*


You take it out of the container. Throw it in res. Forget about it. Either way will work







Good luck to ya











does dead water stay blue in ur loops just want make sure that doesn't kill my color theme going with its hard keep one look


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KillerMike84*


does dead water stay blue in ur loops just want make sure that doesn't kill my color theme going with its hard keep one look


what?

killcoil/pt nuke wont influence colors. it will be clear


----------



## AJsez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Exhaust, Heat rises










Thanks for your reply, I know heat rises, But wouldn't the performance of the top rad be affected by that rising heat, or is it negligible.


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


what?

killcoil/pt nuke wont influence colors. it will be clear


thanks I'm noob so yeah ask ?'s now safe then sorry make sure


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KillerMike84*


thanks I'm noob so yeah ask ?'s now safe then sorry make sure


don't worry. i just didnt know what dead water meant.

if you want colors, get colored tubing


----------



## XxGrave

You are using one or two drops...in a liter or so of water. Will be fine.


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxGrave;12753556*
> You are using one or two drops...in a liter or so of water. Will be fine.


IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal PC Coolant Additive is the stuff going to use I'm going use in my build
PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft pack) this is best for the feet in price i mean
XSPC DC 450 Water Cooling Kit
XSPC G1/4" to 1/2" barb fitting
Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Red
Primoflex Nylon Reusable Hose Clamp - Black - 5/8" OD
Swiftech 1/2" Aluminum Remote Fill-Port Fitting - Black (1/2"FPF-AL)


----------



## xioros

Ordered, add me, I'll be adding pics when the kit arrives


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJsez;12753500*
> Thanks for your reply, I know heat rises, But wouldn't the performance of the top rad be affected by that rising heat, or is it negligible.


I remember someone tryed top intake, bottom exhaust and when they switched to bottom intake and top exhaust they drop like 5C. I have my RX360 at the top And a RX120 at the back of my 932, And it does just fine as exhaust. You need to make sure you have good air flow.


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12757619*
> I remember someone tryed top intake, bottom exhaust and when they switched to bottom intake and top exhaust they drop like 5C. I have my RX360 at the top And a RX120 at the back of my 932, And it does just fine as exhaust. You need to make sure you have good air flow.


i have both intake top and bottom on my case with only 1 140mm rear exhaust.. the amount of air coming out of that rear fan is amazing.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12757651*
> i have both intake top and bottom on my case with only 1 140mm rear exhaust.. the amount of air coming out of that rear fan is amazing.


So why not exhaust out the top? You will most likely drop the temp of everything in you case. Whats you system temp at?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioros;12754972*
> Ordered, add me, I'll be adding pics when the kit arrives


We look forward to seeing it when your done.


----------



## metal_gunjee

I just ordered the Rasa 750 RS240 kit, but I have a crappy Raidmax case at the moment with no cable management among other cons.

How would this case be for mounting up this kit?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112238

Got some promo codes in my email that will allow me to get this case for under $65!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metal_gunjee;12759277*
> I just ordered the Rasa 750 RS240 kit, but I have a crappy Raidmax case at the moment with no cable management among other cons.
> 
> How would this case be for mounting up this kit?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112238
> 
> Got some promo codes in my email that will allow me to get this case for under $65!


I looks like you could mount the rad to the top of the case under the top cover panel. I'm not sure, but is sure looks like it will take a RS240 series radiator. I'm looking over it now though. The RS is 35mm thick, so it may not fit under the cover, but maybe to the roof with fans in pull under the top panel.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metal_gunjee;12759277*
> I just ordered the Rasa 750 RS240 kit, but I have a crappy Raidmax case at the moment with no cable management among other cons.
> 
> How would this case be for mounting up this kit?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112238
> 
> Got some promo codes in my email that will allow me to get this case for under $65!


From the looks at the case pics.,You would be able to mount the RS240mm rad. inside top.Good choose.Be sure to post pics when your done getting your case & kit together.


----------



## metal_gunjee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12759342*
> From the looks at the case pics.,You would be able to mount the RS240mm rad. inside top.Good choose.Be sure to post pics when your done getting your case & kit together.


Will do. This is my first jump into liquid cooling so needless to say I'm pretty f'n excited!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metal_gunjee*


Will do. This is my first jump into liquid cooling so needless to say I'm pretty f'n excited!










ok ill go advance with you...

u need distilled water,pt-nuke,killcoil

dont get any dye additives or mixed dyed water....

coz i know that will be your next question...lolzw ahahahah


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12760454*
> ok ill go advance with you...
> 
> u need distilled water,pt-nuke,killcoil
> 
> dont get any dye additives or mixed dyed water....
> 
> coz i know that will be your next question...lolzw ahahahah


Then it will be can my RS240 handle my GPU too?


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metal_gunjee;12759277*
> I just ordered the Rasa 750 RS240 kit, but I have a crappy Raidmax case at the moment with no cable management among other cons.
> 
> How would this case be for mounting up this kit?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112238
> 
> Got some promo codes in my email that will allow me to get this case for under $65!


The top fan grills are 140mm. Not sure if it comes pre-drilled for 120mm. I'm skeptical of having enough clearance to mount the radiator and fans to the top internally but one review said it looked like there'd be enough room to mount a decent sized radiator.

If not, you can always mount externally on the back using the supplied water tube grommets.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12760628*
> Then it will be can my RS240 handle my GPU too?


it will..no problem with that...but ur not goin to get very good temps....

or

u can go use ur rs240 and put high flow fans (jet turbine) and hope for the best..lolz

ull get nice temps but ur ears will be blown in to pieces..


----------



## wermad

any one interested in an RX240, please pm me or checkout the f/s link below


----------



## microman

any one interested in an RS240, please pm me or checkout the f/s link below


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;12761437*
> any one interested in an RS240, please pm me or checkout the f/s link below










you got







'd


----------



## illum

Can the Rasa rs or rx 360 be fitted to a Haf 922. Would it be internal or external? really need help to decide.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Hey I'm currently looking at purchasing a Rasa 360 kit but I'm not sure if I want the RS of RX. Is the RX Rad that much better than the RS? If so by about how much?


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;12761590*
> Hey I'm currently looking at purchasing a Rasa 360 kit but I'm not sure if I want the RS of RX. Is the RX Rad that much better than the RS? If so by about how much?


the RX is a good amount better but it really depends what you are putting in the loop.... If you are doing just cpu then the RS will be just fine but if you wanna add gpu's you might wanna consider the RX if you have the room.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illum;12761560*
> Can the Rasa rs or rx 360 be fitted to a Haf 922. Would it be internal or external? really need help to decide.


Its been done on a 922 but your will sacrifice a few drive bays, go w/ the RX240 or an RS360 if you must have the 360 rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;12761590*
> Hey I'm currently looking at purchasing a Rasa 360 kit but I'm not sure if I want the RS of RX. Is the RX Rad that much better than the RS? If so by about how much?


Depends:
-if you are cooling only your cpu, the RS240 or RX240 is fine
-if you are planning to add your gpu (which, tbh, they are not in crucial need of water cooling), then go w/ the RS360 or the RX360 for a bit of future proof


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;12761590*
> Hey I'm currently looking at purchasing a Rasa 360 kit but I'm not sure if I want the RS of RX. Is the RX Rad that much better than the RS? If so by about how much?


Depends on what you are cooling. The more heat you make the more you will see the gains of a better rad. The best thing about the RX's over the RS's is that they work very good with lower speed fans, so it will be quiet.


----------



## metal_gunjee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


ok ill go advance with you...

u need distilled water,pt-nuke,killcoil

dont get any dye additives or mixed dyed water....

coz i know that will be your next question...lolzw ahahahah


I already got the clear Feser coolant that frozencpu offered on the listing for the RS240 kit. Did I make a mistake?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metal_gunjee*


I already got the clear Feser coolant that frozencpu offered on the listing for the RS240 kit. Did I make a mistake?


If you got it already, just use it. It's clear, so you won't have dye buildup issues. You generally can run the coolant by itself without adding anything.


----------



## AJsez

I think I'll try both exhaust and intake and see which gives better temp.


----------



## AJsez

Has anyone tried mounting dual radiator internally, with different configuration and see which gives better temp.
1.Both intake
2.Both exhaust
3.Top-intake - Bottom-exhaust
4.Top-exhaust - Bottom-intake


----------



## AJsez

Can I join? I have Rasa 750 Rs240 kit (with Black Ice GTX240 rad)...







[/IMG]


----------



## Velathawen

I'm about to pull the trigger on an RX360 kit for my 2600K build, and a potential GPU added in later on and wanted to make sure I've got everything I need.

RX360 kit from jab-tech
Silver coil from petras (is one enough for life time?)
4 x DS12M from petras
IC7 Diamond (already have)
Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme fan controller (already have)

Also a few questions:
Do I need a top to smooth my flow or is this an unnecessary investment?

I have heard that the tubing that comes with the RX360 browns quickly, is this just a result of people not flushing their loops before using it?

Thanks as always


----------



## Jobotoo

The tubing is just not that great and will discolor no matter what.

Getting better tubing from the start is highly advisable.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJsez;12763495*
> Has anyone tried mounting dual radiator internally, with different configuration and see which gives better temp.
> 1.Both intake
> 2.Both exhaust
> 3.Top-intake - Bottom-exhaust
> 4.Top-exhaust - Bottom-intake


I have, both as intakes gave me the best results for the CPU and GPU. The problem I ran in to was my case didn't have enough ventalation to get all that heat out ove my case. So what worked best for me was front RS240 intake, top 120 fan intake(feeds my back RS120 cool air), and the back RS120 exhaust.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illum;12761560*
> Can the Rasa rs or rx 360 be fitted to a Haf 922. Would it be internal or external? really need help to decide.


Yes, I have the RX 360 rad with push/pull (6 total) fans running at 70% speed (about 1400 rpm) very very quite and cooling is fantastic. I have it mounted externally with a couple of simple "L" shaped brackets which line up nicely with the screw holes at the back of the case (i.e. side where your wires run behind). I used Feser 1/2" ID tubing and have both tubes that come out of the res running behind the motherboard. They're snug but not pinching the tube at all. Gives the case a nice clean look IMO.


----------



## bennieboi6969

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12765728*
> The tubing is just not that great and will discolor no matter what.
> 
> Getting better tubing from the start is highly advisable.


mine hasnt discoloured at all


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12769185*
> mine hasnt discoloured at all


How long has the loop been running?


----------



## bennieboi6969

2 months so far lol


----------



## Dissentience

Wow. My tubing was noticeably more opaque within just a week of running. I've since changed my tubing to Primochill.


----------



## bennieboi6969

all im using as coolant it distilled water and car radiator coolant lol


----------



## Dissentience

Hmm. All I use is distilled water and a few drops of PT Nuke


----------



## unsurper

not bad, gpu coolers are expensive.


----------



## bennieboi6969

i paid $1 for my block lol


----------



## AJsez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12769079*
> I have, both as intakes gave me the best results for the CPU and GPU. The problem I ran in to was my case didn't have enough ventalation to get all that heat out ove my case. So what worked best for me was front RS240 intake, top 120 fan intake(feeds my back RS120 cool air), and the back RS120 exhaust.


What was the difference in temp between these two setup?


----------



## Launcherstrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12775084*
> Hmm. All I use is distilled water and a few drops of PT Nuke


You might have used too much PT nuke. Some people reported their water clouding after a while.


----------



## bennieboi6969

mayb try just distilled water. will drain loop this weekend and see the tubing


----------



## ryujin

After reading through this thread, I finally decided to pull the trigger on a rs240 kit with an additional rx240 and 2 razor gtx 580 blocks..... can't wait to put it all together though, i just hope the pump can handle it...... if not I can just get the dual bay res and laing pump...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12774441*
> Wow. My tubing was noticeably more opaque within just a week of running. I've since changed my tubing to Primochill.


Reason (depends on the amount of plasticizer used when manufacturing the plastic for the tubing):
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12681327*
> I found this explanation...
> 
> Two causes:
> 
> - CO2 reacts with the resin or plasticizer, forming a skin of higher Tg plastic that crystallizes. (Tg is the "glass transition temperature". The lower the Tg, the harder the plastic.)
> 
> - By diffusion (heat, soaking, etc), the plasticizer leaves the resin causing the base material to partially crystallize. Heat and stress by themselves can also crystallize plastics. THIS is what I believe to be the main reason for the milky tubing we see in our systems. The res's are always clear because they are not reacting to the heat.
> 
> Either way, the crystallites that form in the plastic are opaque to light, making the tubing appear milky. You'll also notice that it's more brittle which is why plasticizers are added in the first place.


----------



## mbudden

Great find Kahbrohn. Will be going through the club and adding everyone & adding info to the FAQ today. Have been under the weather. That's why you haven't seem me much lol.


----------



## Velathawen

Finally pulled the trigger, can't wait to get everything set up and running in my system when it gets here in 2 weeks.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJsez;12775210*
> What was the difference in temp between these two setup?


It wasn't much, but I do have the top 120 feeding air to my back 120 rad.

When I had the back 120 as intake, I had the top fan zip tied.









After I flipped the fans, top fan mounted properly and is feeding the rad cool air and pushing air to the dead zone I had.


----------



## Haze80

By null at 2011-03-09








By null at 2011-03-09








By null at 2011-03-09








By null at 2011-03-09


----------



## Havoknova

Ok need suggestions...im goin to buy my new tubing..what will be much sexier

Red tubing.....
Black tubing....
White tubing....

1 solid color or make a two tone or maybe 3 tone color combinations on the tubing..hehehe..

I hate green color now its getting old already...i got my custom fabricated rad brackets for my X-WING rad ..so dont know what tubes to get..hehehe


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12777648*
> Ok need suggestions...im goin to buy my new tubing..what will be much sexier
> 
> Red tubing.....
> Black tubing....
> White tubing....
> 
> 1 solid color or make a two tone or maybe 3 tone color combinations on the tubing..hehehe..
> 
> I hate green color now its getting old already...i got my custom fabricated rad brackets for my X-WING rad ..so dont know what tubes to get..hehehe


Red tubing looks cool,And red and black tubing together would look cool too.


----------



## kingofyo1

Well guys, I just purchased xnine's 800d so expect a ton of build pics when I finally get it in. shipping it out monday. oh btw, anyone need my old modded azza hurrican2000?


----------



## Havoknova

Waaaaa im bored as hell..

got me some:

Black tubing...
6 channel fan controller...
45 rotary fittings...
360 rad...
Mcp655 pump...
Ek res...
12 fans...
3 pin cable extensionseseses....
Uv light inverter...
Compression fittings...
Straight extension fittings...

OMG this ia freakin addicting...

(please somebody shoot me already) lolz

6990 cards on hold waiting for a official wb for it before i buy 1 hehehe..

Goodbye tax refund...ill see you next year...


----------



## AJsez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12777100*
> It wasn't much, but I do have the top 120 feeding air to my back 120 rad.
> 
> When I had the back 120 as intake, I had the top fan zip tied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I flipped the fans, top fan mounted properly and is feeding the rad cool air and pushing air to the dead zone I had.


Thanks for all your reply. I think I'll go with top mount as exhaust since there negligible differences.
Check out my setup. rasa 750 with Black ice gtx240 rad. will install the rs240 in the coming days.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haze80;12777540*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By null at 2011-03-09
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By null at 2011-03-09
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By null at 2011-03-09
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By null at 2011-03-09


I got tge same tubing..just went old that fast for me..so ill change tube to black color..hehehe

Btw sexy rig


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Launcherstrike;12775768*
> You might have used too much PT nuke. Some people reported their water clouding after a while.


Nah. 2 drops. And the water was crystal clear. Kahbrohn's post will tell you exactly what was happening


----------



## SEN_ONE

I will be a member of the club on Tuesday, when my package arrives.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

well finally getting a case big enough for water cooling. Traded my 1055t for a black edition haf 932. i had a 922 about a year ago and thing was huge...so this should def be an upgrade!!!! once it comes in and my i5 2500k motherboard comes in(and i order it lol) i will post pics of my setup. anyone have any hints on throwing a 240rad into the 932 without modding it to much?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AJsez*


Thanks for all your reply. I think I'll go with top mount as exhaust since there negligible differences.
Check out my setup. rasa 750 with Black ice gtx240 rad. will install the rs240 in the coming days.


















Just remember that you want both rads as intake or exhaust for best results. Intakes should always give the best temps on the loop but may lead to problems with other components. Fans are not hard to flip so I would try them both ways.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


well finally getting a case big enough for water cooling. Traded my 1055t for a black edition haf 932. i had a 922 about a year ago and thing was huge...so this should def be an upgrade!!!! once it comes in and my i5 2500k motherboard comes in(and i order it lol) i will post pics of my setup. anyone have any hints on throwing a 240rad into the 932 without modding it to much?


It should be straight forward with no modding in the 932.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


well finally getting a case big enough for water cooling. Traded my 1055t for a black edition haf 932. i had a 922 about a year ago and thing was huge...so this should def be an upgrade!!!! once it comes in and my i5 2500k motherboard comes in(and i order it lol) i will post pics of my setup. anyone have any hints on throwing a 240rad into the 932 without modding it to much?


Mod a 932 for a 240 rad? You can fit a RX360 and push/pull fans in the top. Am I missing something here














I have a RX360 and RX120 in my 932


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Mod a 932 for a 240 rad? You can fit a RX360 and push/pull fans in the top. Am I missing something here














I have a RX360 and RX120 in my 932


















nope your not missing anything. just never had a case this big and didnt know if it can be installed inside without modding. Is it zip-tied into the top or is there a way to acually mount it correctly? any info would be awesome. thanks


----------



## GoodInk

There are 120 fan mounting spots on the top, you mount it there. Make sure the screws you use are not too long as it will puncher the rad and kill it.


----------



## solar0987

Almost finished







pump is running strong with aloot of restriction 2 rads cpu block 2 45 degree fittings mcw 80 gpu block


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Almost finished







pump is running strong with aloot of restriction 2 rads cpu block 2 45 degree fittings mcw 80 gpu block


















Sexy whitw tube..


----------



## wermad

AZZ-illac XSPC-lade









Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Almost finished







pump is running strong with aloot of restriction 2 rads cpu block 2 45 degree fittings mcw 80 gpu block


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Waaaaa im bored as hell..

got me some:

Black tubing...
6 channel fan controller...
45 rotary fittings...
360 rad...
Mcp655 pump...
Ek res...
12 fans...
3 pin cable extensionseseses....
Uv light inverter...
Compression fittings...
Straight extension fittings...

OMG this ia freakin addicting...

(please somebody shoot me already) lolz

6990 cards on hold waiting for a official wb for it before i buy 1 hehehe..

Goodbye tax refund...ill see you next year...


I wanna see how that black tubing looks. I've been debating red/white/black also and I'm leaning towards red right now. Also looking at compression fittings and as soon as I find some ap-15's that aren't laughably overpriced, I'll be getting those too..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


I wanna see how that black tubing looks. I've been debating red/white/black also and I'm leaning towards red right now. Also looking at compression fittings and as soon as I find some ap-15's that aren't laughably overpriced, I'll be getting those too..


There's 30 dollor per fan in ebay..hrhehehehe..well my overhaul will not be this month but hopefully april..still debating on the video card..need to get everything before i start the overhaul..


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


There are 120 fan mounting spots on the top, you mount it there. Make sure the screws you use are not too long as it will puncher the rad and kill it.


awesome, thanks.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


awesome, thanks.


Are you still planing on WCing your Scout?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Are you still planing on WCing your Scout?


Nope, decided since i have so much stuff comming in/out on trades to see if i could get a new case too and got a new haf 932 black in trade so using that for the water cooling build. still going to use the scout, acually waiting for the hd tray to dry right now(painted) so i can put it back in and put my parts in it.


----------



## GoodInk

Taking the easy way out I see







I would too with all the painting you have done all ready.


----------



## rickytlc

Hey guy here is my new loop, getting 42 c idle and 71 c on full load ocd to 3.8 from 2.8. My case temps are 30 c I am in the tropics. What u guy think of the temps? also my loop flows flows from res to rad and from rad to cpu block and from there back to res, liquid in res gets hot at full load, is this cool?


----------



## ezveedub

OK, so my goodies arrived today. I'm going to be adding my 6870s to my RX360 loop and see how well the temps are. I decided to go full EK GPU blocks in parallel flow. More to come over the weekend.





































I'll be scaling my system back down to stock clock speeds, then move up and see how things work over the weekend.


----------



## ezveedub

Here a quicky picture on how the blocks will look once I mount them to the cards.




























If XSPC made full blocks, I would have went with them, but I couldn't see doing just a GPU only cooler. Also, the EKs were my second choice actually. The Aquacomputer 6870 blocks were my first choice, since they also cooled the some large resistors, which EK does not.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12784116*
> OK, so my goodies arrived today. I'm going to be adding my 6870s to my RX360 loop and see how well the temps are. I decided to go full EK GPU blocks in parallel flow. More to come over the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I'll be scaling my system back down to stock clock speeds, then move up and see how things work over the weekend.


That is a nice block.







Can't wait to see it in action!


----------



## kourgath

add me please
got everything up and running and hopefully won't have to rma any more vid cards


















messy desk i know but i actually do work there


----------



## Quccu

Just letting anyone from Australia know that gammods has stock coming April 01 for the Rasa 750 RX240 kit which has been sold out everywhere for a while. As for pccasegear still no word on when new stock arriving.

So start preordering if you don't want to miss out again!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kourgath;12784754*
> add me please
> got everything up and running and hopefully won't have to rma any more vid cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> messy desk i know but i actually do work there


Holy molly wires...x


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kourgath;12784754*
> add me please
> got everything up and running and hopefully won't have to rma any more vid cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> messy desk i know but i actually do work there


And Dust! Have heart burn much? Pepto and Tums


----------



## nden

my RX360 kit tubing is turning cloudy color now.

Ordered some black tubing from FrozenCPU.... BUT they sent me wrong tubing size







Well, after talking with them, I hope they will send me the right size this time. It takes like 2 weeks to get my house. I hate waiting on shipment and I can't wait to re-built my loop.


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12784162*
> Here a quicky picture on how the blocks will look once I mount them to the cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> If XSPC made full blocks, I would have went with them, but I couldn't see doing just a GPU only cooler. Also, the EKs were my second choice actually. The Aquacomputer 6870 blocks were my first choice, since they also cooled the VRMs, which EK does not.


Nice.


----------



## XxGrave

Could someone tell me there idle CPU temp to ambient air delta? Mine seems to be a bit high at 20*C. This is with a CPU only RS240 kit.


----------



## mbudden

~30C @ ~20C delta.


----------



## XxGrave

Exactly what I have at 5ghz... anyone else?


----------



## mbudden

But idle temps don't matter. It's all about load temps.


----------



## kourgath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


And Dust! Have heart burn much? Pepto and Tums










yup about 2 days of dust







comes of living on a dirt road.
and the pepto and tums comes from haveing 2 teenage boys.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kourgath*


yup about 2 days of dust







comes of living on a dirt road.
and the pepto and tums comes from haveing 2 teenage boys.


Now that's funny and wow 2 days, I wouldn't ever stop cleaning my PC


----------



## mbudden

Time to invest.

  Amazon.com: Metro Vacuum ED500 DataVac 500-Watt, 0.75-HP Electric Duster: Home Improvement


----------



## Buska103

If I am idling 35 and at load 50 with a huge ass Xigmatek HDT-1283 heatsink... how much would I benefit from the XSPC Rasa RX750 on a CPU-only loop?

Approximately? I'm trying to figure out if the temp decreases convince me to buy this for overclocking instead of only bragging rights and a quiet computer


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12793948*
> If I am idling 35 and at load 50 with a huge ass Xigmatek HDT-1283 heatsink... how much would I benefit from the XSPC Rasa RX750 on a CPU-only loop?
> 
> Approximately? I'm trying to figure out if the temp decreases convince me to buy this for overclocking instead of only bragging rights and a quiet computer


If you need convinced then don't get it. It doesn't look like you are pushing your CPU very hard anyways.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12793948*
> If I am idling 35 and at load 50 with a huge ass Xigmatek HDT-1283 heatsink... how much would I benefit from the XSPC Rasa RX750 on a CPU-only loop?
> 
> Approximately? I'm trying to figure out if the temp decreases convince me to buy this for overclocking instead of only bragging rights and a quiet computer


Well my RX360 keeps my i7 875K @4.0 at 55c on the hottest core, So your amd would not be problem staying cool


----------



## Penryn

Works well for SB!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12793948*
> If I am idling 35 and at load 50 with a huge ass Xigmatek HDT-1283 heatsink... how much would I benefit from the XSPC Rasa RX750 on a CPU-only loop?
> 
> Approximately? I'm trying to figure out if the temp decreases convince me to buy this for overclocking instead of only bragging rights and a quiet computer


well on those temp u got what ur ambient and ur clocks??


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12793948*
> If I am idling 35 and at load 50 with a huge ass Xigmatek HDT-1283 heatsink... how much would I benefit from the XSPC Rasa RX750 on a CPU-only loop?
> 
> Approximately? I'm trying to figure out if the temp decreases convince me to buy this for overclocking instead of only bragging rights and a quiet computer


At 4013 the change gave me between 5 and 7c drop on my sig rig when I ran a Mugen II W/push pull GT AP-15's

Now I'm working on 4222 with 1.468v and still 5c lower


----------



## ezveedub

OK, got my EK watercooled 6870s in parallel loop added to my RX360 loop. So far at stock speeds and some benching, temps are very good. CPU at 41C and GPUs at 44C. Still waiting for the system to burp all the micro-bubbles out (happens with the water I use). Here a few pics. Flow seems to not have changed with the added blocks. Still using the DDC1T pump (MCP350). Was going to throw the X20 750 pump back in, but was getting antsy to get thing back up and running, LOL! Gonna re-apply my 4Ghz OC and run Dirt2 bench to see how hot she gets.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

how do i clean this











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12797981*
> how do i clean this


I heard people using ketchup. Sounds odd but it seems to work


----------



## trimak

Yay got my RX360 for my birthday installed







temps went from 45c to.... 15c









**** YES! ok so just a QQ I put distilled water in my loop with intent to get a proper liquid later but I have only heard bad things about the liquids so i turned to silver for anti growth properties, cna I just get a silver ring and drop it in my reservoir and be done with it?

I was thinking instead of getting some silver fittings but in the meantime will a silver ring do the job and if i get silver fittings how many do I need if I don't have the cash to replace all my fittings with silver all at once and what is the difference between silver fittings and TRUE silver fittings??!


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trimak;12798034*
> Yay got my RX360 for my birthday installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> temps went from 45c to.... 15c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **** YES! ok so just a QQ I put distilled water in my loop with intent to get a proper liquid later but I have only heard bad things about the liquids so i turned to silver for anti growth properties, cna I just get a silver ring and drop it in my reservoir and be done with it?
> 
> I was thinking instead of getting some silver fittings but in the meantime will a silver ring do the job and if i get silver fittings how many do I need if I don't have the cash to replace all my fittings with silver all at once and what is the difference between silver fittings and TRUE silver fittings??!


Whats your ambient? Im thinking you have a faulty sensor if you are seeing 15c in coretemp... Unless you have your window open or somthing
As for silver rings and fittings, why waste the money, use a kill coil


----------



## Dissentience

He's probably reading core temps, not CPU socket temps


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12798073*
> He's probably reading core temps, not CPU socket temps


Wouldnt both be impossible to be below his ambient without outdoor cooling or something other then standard water cooling


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Six cores have inaccurate temp sensors. About 11c off


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

anyone have a picture of the piece that attaches to the copper? when I took my copper part of the block off i think an o ring fell off and i wanna make sure, its barely to big to fit in the diamond pattern...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12797981*
> how do i clean this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


IMO, I would use Brasso and a toothbrush. You can try hot water and Dawn with a toothbrush first. If the copper is oxidized, then Brasso to remove it, then hot water and Dawn or dishwashing liquid. Then rinse with distiller to wash off any residue and minerals from regular water rinse.


----------



## trimak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12798050*
> Whats your ambient? Im thinking you have a faulty sensor if you are seeing 15c in coretemp... Unless you have your window open or somthing
> As for silver rings and fittings, why waste the money, use a kill coil


Yeh im in the top floor of my house windows are always open. Today is hot and im seeing 27C but still it's fantastic.

as for the silver ring it was a temporary until a permanent silver addition to the loop. For the fittings I have only the stock black clamps on my tubing so fittings would look much better no? and I cant seem to find anywhere here that sells a silver kill coil so far. I'm in Melbourne Australia. So the silver fittings would be a silver additive and a fitting upgrade. of my tubing in single barb with black clamps.

Oh and yes im using coretemp.exe so I would be seeing core temps and they are inaccurate but it's the best I got right? My motherboard does have poor temps one sensor constantly showed 80C right from boot so I got a HR05 northbridge cooler on it with a fan just to be super safe


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12797314*
> OK, got my EK watercooled 6870s in parallel loop added to my RX360 loop. So far at stock speeds and some benching, temps are very good. CPU at 41C and GPUs at 44C. Still waiting for the system to burp all the micro-bubbles out (happens with the water I use). Here a few pics. Flow seems to not have changed with the added blocks. Still using the DDC1T pump (MCP350). Was going to throw the X20 750 pump back in, but was getting antsy to get thing back up and running, LOL! Gonna re-apply my 4Ghz OC and run Dirt2 bench to see how hot she gets.


So far, CPU stress testa are 61C @ 4.0Ghz OC, memory at stick 1600. While gaming with both 6870s running slightly higher clocks, 925 gpu, 1075 memory and @ 4Ghz CPU, 51C CPU, 54C on 6870s. Working very well on single RX360 rad with push fans at 1800 rpms.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

I had an idea for this thread. If there was a spreadsheet of different sockets, then cpu's and max load temps that would really help.


----------



## ezveedub

We would have to log the values used, more so with voltages also. Benchmark test that load the CPU maxed out versus gaming and other apps will yield different results also.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well i havet posted in awhile hows it goin guys im about to add a 5970 with waterblock to my loop lol i dread draining it again its been running maintenance free sence jan when i put in my 2nd rad.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12798478*
> So far, CPU stress testa are 61C @ 4.0Ghz OC, memory at stick 1600. While gaming with both 6870s running slightly higher clocks, 925 gpu, 1075 memory and @ 4Ghz CPU, 51C CPU, 54C on 6870s. Working very well on single RX360 rad with push fans at 1800 rpms.


Looks good on the temps..u got room to make tge clocks higher about 4.2 or 4.3...and hit about 70-75c..keep it up..but ur goin to need another rad..or make ur rad on a push/pull set up to optimize cooling..

=)


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


how do i clean this










ketchup and a tooth brush like someone suggested above. ketchup is slightly acidic and abrasive.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


I had an idea for this thread. If there was a spreadsheet of different sockets, then cpu's and max load temps that would really help.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


We would have to log the values used, more so with voltages also. Benchmark test that load the CPU maxed out versus gaming and other apps will yield different results also.


I would love to, but you have to realize how much work that is. Not to mention, I have tried asking for temps etc from people. But they don't do it right.

Check out mine for example.
http://www.overclock.net/11587770-post248.html

That's how I want it done, so people actually have a visual.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Buska103*


If I am idling 35 and at load 50 with a huge ass Xigmatek HDT-1283 heatsink... how much would I benefit from the XSPC Rasa RX750 on a CPU-only loop?

Approximately? I'm trying to figure out if the temp decreases convince me to buy this for overclocking instead of only bragging rights and a quiet computer










Well mine runs at 4.3ghz and it runs fine..

Ambient 23-25c
Idle temp 30-33c
Load temp 62c max..

Goin to try and hit 4.5 this morning..


----------



## mbudden

Updated the thread.


----------



## fireisdangerous84

whats the best tim to use to help get the best results using these kits


----------



## mbudden

Shin Etsu x23


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


whats the best tim to use to help get the best results using these kits


On h50 and h70 club they said that the tim that cone with the kit is a shin so just use the tim u got on ur h50..


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Looks good on the temps..u got room to make tge clocks higher about 4.2 or 4.3...and hit about 70-75c..keep it up..but ur goin to need another rad..or make ur rad on a push/pull set up to optimize cooling..

=)


Way ahead of ya! Got 2nd RX360 rad already with box of goodies last week. Just waiting on my new M8 case.


----------



## bennieboi6969

what case?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12803619*
> what case?


Case Labs M8 case










http://www.overclock.net/case-labs/939034-magnum-m8-m10-now-shipping.html

http://www.overclock.net/case-labs/907778-new-m8-pics-jan-5th.html


----------



## cschweppe

Hey guys thought id share some pics of my newest build which involved a RASA 360 kit.
Not the best pics but i just shot some for some friends who were asking about it... check it out.
youll notice in one pic i only have two fans on the radiator and in another i have 5... i am still doing testing on the best noise/performance on this.


----------



## drka0tic

Looks SWEET! Is that backplate white?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

I ordered some red primochill tubing and a couple other odds and ends yesterday. When I get it, I'm going to drill the threads on my backplate and use the silver screws like you're supposed to for AMD, I'm too freaked out that it'll come loose the way it is.

Also, I have yet to OC since my NB is 50c @idle. So I may just wait another week so I can order the NB/SB block and some other do dads. You guys certainly werent kidding when you said this was addicting.


----------



## cschweppe

yeah i painted the outer surfaces satin white. i didnt paint the underside as it does add a small amount of cooling. Thanks for the compliment! it was a spontaneous build....


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

New addition to the Rasa kit











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12809376*
> New addition to the Rasa kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Very clean and nice, wire-management will make it perfect though


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12809407*
> Very clean and nice, wire-management will make it perfect though


The cable management there doesn't look too bad at all. It looks like it has about 4000% better cable management than my rig








My case really doesn't allow for it though


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12802914*
> Way ahead of ya! Got 2nd RX360 rad already with box of goodies last week. Just waiting on my new M8 case.


Wahahah..my rx 360 coming next week..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12808428*
> I ordered some red primochill tubing and a couple other odds and ends yesterday. When I get it, I'm going to drill the threads on my backplate and use the silver screws like you're supposed to for AMD, I'm too freaked out that it'll come loose the way it is.
> 
> Also, I have yet to OC since my NB is 50c @idle. So I may just wait another week so I can order the NB/SB block and some other do dads. You guys certainly werent kidding when you said this was addicting.


Thats the problem im getting on my extreme..nb getting too hot so i went for watercooling just for the nb...

Told yea its addicting..wahahha


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12809479*
> Thats the problem im getting on my extreme..nb getting too hot so i went for watercooling just for the nb...
> 
> Told yea its addicting..wahahha


how ya liking that koolance block? notice a big difference? I need to justify spending $144, ya know







And then, I'm sure I'll need to get a 120 and a couple of gpu blocks lol.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12809455*
> Wahahah..my rx 360 coming next week..


muahahahaha, my TWO RX480(s) are coming in this wednesday


----------



## sockpirate

How would i incorporate this into the RS 360 kit? Never done WC before so a quick explanation would be cool. I know i don't need this since everything needed comes with the kit already but i wouldn't mind a cool looking res like this .

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html?tl=g30c97s166

would i go , Pump ->CPU BLOCK->RAD->Res ?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12798320*
> IMO, I would use Brasso and a toothbrush. You can try hot water and Dawn with a toothbrush first. If the copper is oxidized, then Brasso to remove it, then hot water and Dawn or dishwashing liquid. Then rinse with distiller to wash off any residue and minerals from regular water rinse.


tooth brush and ketchup and soak in vinager just dont let it stay on it to long or it will be more harmful then helping. When i cleaned mine i soaked it in vinager for 2-3 mins then put some ketchup on a napkin and dabbed the tooth brush in it and scrubed the block. Then used clean water to soak it in and used a can of air to dry it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12809831*
> How would i incorporate this into the RS 360 kit? Never done WC before so a quick explanation would be cool. I know i don't need this since everything needed comes with the kit already but i wouldn't mind a cool looking res like this .
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html?tl=g30c97s166


FrozenQ helix res look much sexier. Either, its kinda redundant since the Rasa kits comes with a res. Unless your planning to forgo the pump/res unit, it won't do much other than add something that is unnecessary. If you must have it, get a standalone pump (ie DDC, D5, Jingway 1200, etc.)


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;12809860*
> FrozenQ helix res look much sexier. Either, its kinda redundant since the Rasa kits comes with a res. Unless your planning to forgo the pump/res unit, it won't do much other than add something that is unnecessary. If you must have it, get a standalone pump (ie DDC, D5, Jingway 1200, etc.)


Hmmm might as well just stick with the Rasa default stuff then , thanks !


----------



## JedixJarf

Well, got my RX 360 kit in on friday and got it all set up. The pump I received is junk... It rattles and clanks louder then 10 old IDE drives all defragging at once. I have a support ticket open with XSPC so we will see how that goes, they requested a video of the noise... lol.

On a side note... XSPC so far seems to have some cheap support... Never have I emailed a company for support and received only this as a response email....
Quote:


> Pls send me a video about the noise.


I know that when I worked in tech support if I ever sent a one line email as a response to a support case without even spelling out my words completely I would have been fired on the spot.... Just my $.02


----------



## ryujin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*


Well, got my RX 360 kit in on friday and got it all set up. The pump I received is junk... It rattles and clanks louder then 10 old IDE drives all defragging at once. I have a support ticket open with XSPC so we will see how that goes, they requested a video of the noise... lol.

On a side note... XSPC so far seems to have some cheap support... Never have I emailed a company for support and received only this as a response email....

I know that when I worked in tech support if I ever sent a one line email as a response to a support case without even spelling out my words completely I would have been fired on the spot.... Just my $.02


That kind of makes me nervous about my kit, which is on its way... A few posts say that it goes away after a while.... but still


----------



## JedixJarf

How long of a while lol? Its been on 24/7 since friday night and it seems a little louder then when I first got it installed.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*


Well, got my RX 360 kit in on friday and got it all set up. The pump I received is junk... It rattles and clanks louder then 10 old IDE drives all defragging at once. I have a support ticket open with XSPC so we will see how that goes, they requested a video of the noise... lol.

On a side note... XSPC so far seems to have some cheap support... Never have I emailed a company for support and received only this as a response email....

I know that when I worked in tech support if I ever sent a one line email as a response to a support case without even spelling out my words completely I would have been fired on the spot.... Just my $.02


Before you go on bashing a companies CS. Do realize this guy is not from the US. Also, due note that me and him have had long winded conversations about the kit. Not to mention Kahbrohn has done the same. He's a really great guy, very nice and informative. And I can tell that English isn't his first language. No need to be a dick.

Not to mention, did you even check to make sure it was nothing of your doing before opening a ticket with them? Mine is silent, but when I cleaned out my loop. My pump was loud for a few hours after refilling it. It didn't go quiet until I made sure that the bubbles were out of it.

If that doesn't work. Introduce a drop of dish soap into the loop. I have read people in here have done it and it has worked for them.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryujin*


That kind of makes me nervous about my kit, which is on its way... A few posts say that it goes away after a while.... but still










It does go away after a while, people expect things to be great out of the box. It doesn't work like that. Most of the time it's user error, and they are blaming the kit.


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *mbudden*   Before you go on bashing a companies CS. Do realize this guy is not from the US. Also, due note that me and him have had long winded conversations about the kit. Not to mention Kahbrohn has done the same. He's a really great guy, very nice and informative. And I can tell that English isn't his first language. No need to be a dick.

Not to mention, did you even check to make sure it was nothing of your doing before opening a ticket with them? Mine is silent, but when I cleaned out my loop. My pump was loud for a few hours after refilling it. It didn't go quiet until I made sure that the bubbles were out of it.

If that doesn't work. Introduce a drop of dish soap into the loop. I have read people in here have done it and it has worked for them.

It does go away after a while, people expect things to be great out of the box. It doesn't work like that. Most of the time it's user error, and they are blaming the kit.  
Whoa... no need for hostility, wasnt being a dick, just thinking out loud at 3 AM...

I have also made sure there are no bubbles in it and have tried the dawn trick as well...

I mean, this puppy is loud enough I can hear it anywhere in my house lol.

Heres a video of the sound, eat your heart out









  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yf06g9DaFjs


----------



## ryujin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Before you go on bashing a companies CS. Do realize this guy is not from the US. Also, due note that me and him have had long winded conversations about the kit. Not to mention Kahbrohn has done the same. He's a really great guy, very nice and informative. And I can tell that English isn't his first language. No need to be a dick.

Not to mention, did you even check to make sure it was nothing of your doing before opening a ticket with them? Mine is silent, but when I cleaned out my loop. My pump was loud for a few hours after refilling it. It didn't go quiet until I made sure that the bubbles were out of it.

If that doesn't work. Introduce a drop of dish soap into the loop. I have read people in here have done it and it has worked for them.

It does go away after a while, people expect things to be great out of the box. It doesn't work like that. Most of the time it's user error, and they are blaming the kit.


Dish soap








.... I'm kind of confused as to what that might do to help it but hopefully I install mine correctly the first time with minimal amounts of bubbles. I seems simple enough though... This will be my first w/c build...


----------



## mbudden

Soap is a surfactant.


----------



## ryujin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Soap is a surfactant.


I guess I just learned something new...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12809753*
> how ya liking that koolance block? notice a big difference? I need to justify spending $144, ya know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then, I'm sure I'll need to get a 120 and a couple of gpu blocks lol.


Well from 50's-60's to 32-38c on 3000mhz and 1.4v oc on my nb..its well worthied..get it if u planing to OC ur nb if not then u dont have too..but its a nice addition to ur watercooling blocks =)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*


Well, got my RX 360 kit in on friday and got it all set up. The pump I received is junk... It rattles and clanks louder then 10 old IDE drives all defragging at once. I have a support ticket open with XSPC so we will see how that goes, they requested a video of the noise... lol.

On a side note... XSPC so far seems to have some cheap support... Never have I emailed a company for support and received only this as a response email....

I know that when I worked in tech support if I ever sent a one line email as a response to a support case without even spelling out my words completely I would have been fired on the spot.... Just my $.02


I received the same response my first e-mail to them. I sent my video in and I was requested to do so a second time since I had uploaded to youtube. Youtube is prohibited in China. I assume that the video was so they can have a "fair" chance to ascertain the problem and make a decision to replace. Heck... I know of a user who bi*****, moaned and groaned about how they received a new radiator that was leaking. I saw pictures of it. The thing was leaking in at least 4 different places and all (surprisingly) where fan screws go in. As any other company, they just need to protect their interests. That's all.

As soon as they received/reviewed my video I got a quick response from them stating that a replacement would be shipped out. No hassles or fussing. I got my replacement in half the time I expected because it shipped from a DC in Texas and not from China.

Bottom line is this... I have NEVER had any issue with any company in handling a return and such as long as I am not only honest about by claim, but act humbly as well. I have made friends with an owner of a well recognized computer parts e-tailer and I have seen some of the claims he receives. After several years of "abuse", in all honesty, I would have a stone heart also. The problem is that problems with parts and such are a real minimum. What happens is that when all is fine, people smile. When there is something wrong... people yell and make noise and that's when other hear.

Just make sure you send them a nice e-mail stating EVERYTHING that you have done to insure that your pump is working properly. Ask them if there is anything else you can do to check your system out. Send the video (with sound). They know there is a design flaw with the mold used to make the pump housing and they are working on it. And lastly, take into consideration that this is not an easy admission for them to make. Don't focus on how badly they did in making the pump. Look and value how quickly (not an overnight thing either!) they respond and handle your issue.

I still have my e-mail exchanges with XSPC and I will be more than glad to send a copy to anyone interested in seeing how I approached XSPC with my problem and got results. I can share the answers as well. 30 years in the business world has taught me that its not always what you say (even if the truth), it's how it's said and this is where we need to be careful.

IMO XSPC is a good company. They just have some bad luck with their pumps and they are working on it. Like Toyota... good company with a bit of bad luck but people still buy it. XSPC has had many good pumps go out that are silent. I was unlucky with them twice but I still feel that they are a good company. Rad's are among the best as are the blocks. Reservoirs are one of the better looking ones in my mind and reasonably priced. As a newcomer (me) to this industry, I just feel their luck ran out somewhere.


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12811076*
> I received the same response my first e-mail to them. I sent my video in and I was requested to do so a second time since I had uploaded to youtube. Youtube is prohibited in China. I assume that the video was so they can have a "fair" chance to ascertain the problem and make a decision to replace. Heck... I know of a user who bi*****, moaned and groaned about how they received a new radiator that was leaking. I saw pictures of it. The thing was leaking in at least 4 different places and all (surprisingly) where fan screws go in. As any other company, they just need to protect their interests. That's all.
> 
> As soon as they received/reviewed my video I got a quick response from them stating that a replacement would be shipped out. No hassles or fussing. I got my replacement in half the time I expected because it shipped from a DC in Texas and not from China.
> 
> Bottom line is this... I have NEVER had any issue with any company in handling a return and such as long as I am not only honest about by claim, but act humbly as well. I have made friends with an owner of a well recognized computer parts e-tailer and I have seen some of the claims he receives. After several years of "abuse", in all honesty, I would have a stone heart also. The problem is that problems with parts and such are a real minimum. What happens is that when all is fine, people smile. When there is something wrong... people yell and make noise and that's when other hear.
> 
> Just make sure you send them a nice e-mail stating EVERYTHING that you have done to insure that your pump is working properly. Ask them if there is anything else you can do to check your system out. Send the video (with sound). They know there is a design flaw with the mold used to make the pump housing and they are working on it. And lastly, take into consideration that this is not an easy admission for them to make. Don't focus on how badly they did in making the pump. Look and value how quickly (not an overnight thing either!) they respond and handle your issue.
> 
> I still have my e-mail exchanges with XSPC and I will be more than glad to send a copy to anyone interested in seeing how I approached XSPC with my problem and got results. I can share the answers as well. 30 years in the business world has taught me that its not always what you say (even if the truth), it's how it's said and this is where we need to be careful.
> 
> IMO XSPC is a good company. They just have some bad luck with their pumps and they are working on it. Like Toyota... good company with a bit of bad luck but people still buy it. XSPC has had many good pumps go out that are silent. I was unlucky with them twice but I still feel that they are a good company. Rad's are among the best as are the blocks. Reservoirs are one of the better looking ones in my mind and reasonably priced. As a newcomer (me) to this industry, I just feel their luck ran out somewhere.


thanks for the good info +rep.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*


thanks for the good info +rep.


No problem... and thx for the rep.


----------



## JedixJarf

Well guys, looks like XSPC has come through for me. Even though my First pump was faulty I will def buy from again.

Quote:



Hi,

Pls send me your address and tel no. We will send you a new one as replacement.

Best Regards


----------



## ryujin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*


Well guys, looks like XSPC has come through for me. Even though my First pump was faulty I will def buy from again.


Thats good to hear... It definately makes me feel better knowing they have decent CS....


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*


Well guys, looks like XSPC has come through for me. Even though my First pump was faulty I will def buy from again.


ROTFLMBO!

That was ALSO the same exact answer I got... word for word. I guess they had someone make a template!

Glad to hear it worked out. You should get it from their TX warehouse by USPS so you should get it soon enough. Took about 5-6 days for me to receive it. You should see it sooner since it takes longer to reach Puerto Rico. Let us know how it turns out!


----------



## JedixJarf

Yeah will do, hopping on a plane right now and will be back on friday so hopefully its here then.

Swyped from my DROID X


----------



## cschweppe

ive built probably 4 systems using the rasa kits and different XSPC parts. and never had an issue, other than they have sent me the wrong radiator twice. but they are always willing to replace or help me get whatever i need. and (let the flaming begin) i use frozencpu a lot to get parts since they ship to me so fast and they are always super helpful.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cschweppe*


ive built probably 4 systems using the rasa kits and different XSPC parts. and never had an issue, other than they have sent me the wrong radiator twice. but they are always willing to replace or help me get whatever i need. and (let the flaming begin) i use frozencpu a lot to get parts since they ship to me so fast and they are always super helpful.


Interesting...

Kahbrohn, see what I mean? What I brought up in the PM.


----------



## cschweppe

i will say one thing though there seems to be two different radiators for every size. one they send that has XSPC stamped on the sides and one that does not... obviously the one with it looks better but i have had better flow rates with the ones without it... i think when they run out of the ones they have had stamped they sub out a generic one from another company or something... or maybe its just me.


----------



## mbudden

Well, when I bought from FrozenCPU. They sent me the 360 rad instead of the 240 rad that I bought. I mean, I could have kept it. But I felt like it would be wrong of me to keep it. So I contacted them and they shipped the correct one back to me and sent a label to ship the other back.

Now what I was talking about in the PM to Kahbrohn was that. It seems that the kits coming from JabTech, from what I have seen. Are the ones that are having the problems, and not necessarily the kits from FrozenCPU.


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Well, when I bought from FrozenCPU. They sent me the 360 rad instead of the 240 rad that I bought. I mean, I could have kept it. But I felt like it would be wrong of me to keep it. So I contacted them and they shipped the correct one back to me and sent a label to ship the other back.

Now what I was talking about in the PM to Kahbrohn was that. It seems that the kits coming from JabTech, from what I have seen. Are the ones that are having the problems, and not necessarily the kits from FrozenCPU.


Mine came from jab

Swyped from my DROID X


----------



## JFuss

Hey, I've got a few questions I wanted to run past you guys.
First off about the pump, After I have gotten my CPU and two GPUs connected I was considering adding a RX240 to the loop (which will be the RX360 Kit), would the pump be able to handle that or would I even need an extra rad.
And would the h50 back plate work okay with the CPU water block as I would like to save the proper one for when I upgrade to Sandybridge and that leads me to my next question, do 1156 backplates fit a 1155 mobos?

Cheers


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JFuss*


Hey, I've got a few questions I wanted to run past you guys.
First off about the pump, After I have gotten my CPU and two GPUs connected I was considering adding a RX240 to the loop (which will be the RX360 Kit), would the pump be able to handle that or would I even need an extra rad.
And would the h50 back plate work okay with the CPU water block as I would like to save the proper one for when I upgrade to Sandybridge and that leads me to my next question, do 1156 backplates fit a 1155 mobos?

Cheers










I believe the pump can handle it. I know someone in this thread had up to like 4-5 water blocks until he switched to a different pump. He said he didn't see much restriction.

But yes. The 1156 back plates will work with 1155 motherboards.


----------



## JFuss

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I believe the pump can handle it. I know someone in this thread had up to like 4-5 water blocks until he switched to a different pump. He said he didn't see much restriction.

But yes. The 1156 back plates will work with 1155 motherboards.


Ah awesome, cheers man


----------



## cschweppe

ive built a 3way Xfire system with a total of 4 water blocks (3 5870 and CPU) and two 240 rads using the rasa 2nd gen kit pump and it worked great. it took forever to get the system filled without any bubbles but once it was it worked great i think that system is still working like a champ. in theory as long as all your fittings and tubing are consistent and you are using high flow water blocks there is VERY little resistance.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Interesting...

Kahbrohn, see what I mean? What I brought up in the PM.


I hear ya... and I am inclined to agree with your theory also. Would be nice to grab a hold of the next two people who buy the kits... hopefully one from FCPU and one from JT and compare to see. I know I bought from JT and I had a rattling pump. I get a replacement and it too rattles but the replacement did not come from JT.

Could this be similar to the old Yate Loon fan issues a few years back???

Poll??? Options would be:

- FCPU, No rattle.
- FCPU, Rattle.
- JT, No rattle.
- JT, Rattle.
- Other US, No rattle.
- Other US, Rattle.
- Other Non-US, No rattle.
- Other, Non-US, Rattle.

(I use others because I believe that here in the US at least, FCPU and JT are the biggest distributors.)


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I believe the pump can handle it. I know someone in this thread had up to like 4-5 water blocks until he switched to a different pump. He said he didn't see much restriction.

But yes. The 1156 back plates will work with 1155 motherboards.


That was me









the pump was running: 360>cpu>mb>3x gpu>res for a short while until I switched to a DDC 3.2. For those complaining about noise, my ddc was uber loud until the air was bled.


----------



## ezveedub

I bought my kit from Jab-Tech and the stock pump was quiet at first, and then got the HDD chatter sound (still faint IMO). My brother-in-law got his kit from Crazy PC and he says his is silent. I will have to hear it for myself to confirm, but he does have the same kit and case as me, so should be a fair comparison.


----------



## Dissentience

My pump sounded like a fish tank pump for a while, not super loud but definitely noticeable. After four or five days it went away completely and I have to put my ear next to the res to hear it now.


----------



## whiteslashasian

I just registered so I can post in this thread (read every single page so far). I've been toying with the idea of going Liquid Cooling for my next build (gearing up for BF3) and the XSPC equipment seems like a great place to start.

My only concern lies with the 750 pump. I was thinking of purchasing parts separately and going with an MCP35x with an XSPC bay res top for better performance and noise management.

I would likely just start with an RX240 for a CPU loop and then add another RX120 since I plan on going multi-GPU in the future and will likely want those under water as well.

Does anyone else agree that this is a safe route to take?

Thanks for the great information here!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whiteslashasian*


I just registered so I can post in this thread (read every single page so far). I've been toying with the idea of going Liquid Cooling for my next build (gearing up for BF3) and the XSPC equipment seems like a great place to start.

My only concern lies with the 750 pump. I was thinking of purchasing parts separately and going with an MCP35x with an XSPC bay res top for better performance and noise management.

I would likely just start with an RX240 for a CPU loop and then add another RX120 since I plan on going multi-GPU in the future and will likely want those under water as well.

Does anyone else agree that this is a safe route to take?

Thanks for the great information here!


You could do individual parts and use the XSPC dual pump reservoir with two MCP35x pumps. But from what I hear, the MCP35x is not all that quiet. That reservoir allows you to run two separate loops from the same reservoir. I use a single DDC1-T 10 watt pump now. I can still hear the pump, but heard it's quieter than the 18watt DDC pumps. As for loops, you can run a single DDC pump loop with the RX360 rad with CPU and two GPUs and get very good results like I'm getting now, so keep this in mind. If space is an issue, than the 240 and 120 should still work. Bmaverick sells the DDC-1T (MCP350) pumps over in the cooling section for sale thread for $35 shipped in the US.


----------



## solar0987

I got my kit from jabtech
Was at first louder then a 92cfm fan...thats not quiet
Once again ill say it
I put 1 drop of dish soap in the res turned it on its side let it sit for a min turned it on its other side let it sit for a min, it was whisper quiet after that point.
I have even changed tubing broke down loop re routed tubes added blocks and never put any dish soap back in it and its still whisper quiet.
On my single pump i have a rs 240 res, a dd 240 x flow res, 2 45 degree fittings, the rasa cpu block, and a mcw 80 which is pretty restrictive highest temp i get is 41c on cpu and 38-40c on gpu. Thats with the overclock in my sig on both cpu and card.


----------



## whiteslashasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12813336*
> You could do individual parts and use the XSPC dual pump reservoir with two MCP35x pumps. But from what I hear, the MCP35x is not all that quiet. That reservoir allows you to run two separate loops from the same reservoir. I use a single DDC1-T 10 watt pump now. I can still hear the pump, but heard it's quieter than the 18watt DDC pumps. As for loops, you can run a single DDC pump loop with the RX360 rad with CPU and two GPUs and get very good results like I'm getting now, so keep this in mind. If space is an issue, than the 240 and 120 should still work. Bmaverick sells the DDC-1T (MCP350) pumps over in the cooling section for sale thread for $35 shipped in the US.


Ah sorry. I mis-typed when I said MCP35x, I actually meant the MCP350 from Bmaverick and likely run it with the XSPC BayRes One for a single pump:
http://www.xspc.biz/ddcdualbayresone.php

Space is likely an issue, hence the 240 and 120, RX because I want to use slower/quieter fans while still providing adequate cooling.

Another concern I just thought of is the noise generated by the pump/bay res combination. It seems that combining these two would prevent me from adequately decoupling the pump from the case (since the pump would be attached to the bay res, and the bay res to the case). Do you have any thoughts on how to possibly accomplish this or do you think going with a separate res and pump top would be best for optimal sound dampening?

The only thing I could really think of would be to use very thin sheets of foam around the sides of the bay res which contact the case in addition to the included rubber anti-vibration mounts.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whiteslashasian;12814271*
> Ah sorry. I mis-typed when I said MCP35x, I actually meant the MCP350 from Bmaverick and likely run it with the XSPC BayRes One for a single pump:
> http://www.xspc.biz/ddcdualbayresone.php
> 
> Space is likely an issue, hence the 240 and 120, RX because I want to use slower/quieter fans while still providing adequate cooling.
> 
> Another concern I just thought of is the noise generated by the pump/bay res combination. It seems that combining these two would prevent me from adequately decoupling the pump from the case (since the pump would be attached to the bay res, and the bay res to the case). Do you have any thoughts on how to possibly accomplish this or do you think going with a separate res and pump top would be best for optimal sound dampening?
> 
> The only thing I could really think of would be to use very thin sheets of foam around the sides of the bay res which contact the case in addition to the included rubber anti-vibration mounts.


The DDC pump doesn't really rattle or vibrate. It just has a high pitch faint whine. Some add padding to the bottom side, but that also insulates the circuit board and IMO makes it run hot. The DDC reservoir used has rubber mounts inserted, unlike the X20 750 pump reservoir combo with has just brass solid inserts. The other option may be to use the XSPC reservoir for a D5 pump instead, but this will cost more than using Bmaverick's DDC-1 pumps, but I hear the D5 is a quieter pump than the DDC (MCP350).


----------



## sockpirate

Does the rasa 360 kit fit fine on the Torture rack ?


----------



## mbudden

According to this picture, I don't see a place to put a 360 rad.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12814674*
> According to this picture, I don't see a place to put a 360 rad.


Couple of 240s and maybe 120s. Loop-to-loop setup on that rack.


----------



## sockpirate

well what Rasa kit would be best for the torture rack ? I am just planning onc ooling my CPU.


----------



## mbudden

It seems that a RS/RX 120 or 240 would fit.
I would go with a 240 rad.


----------



## sockpirate

I am totally new to water cooling as you guys can tell, how often do you have to refill/ maintain the rasa 240 kit? It will be more than enough to just cool my CPU correct?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12815619*
> I am totally new to water cooling as you guys can tell, how often do you have to refill/ maintain the rasa 240 kit? It will be more than enough to just cool my CPU correct?


Well i used the stock tubing, And I had to replace it in 4-6 weeks, Because it turned brown and started to smell. It doesn't always happen, But it seems to happen quite abit. I would look into using different tubing


----------



## mbudden

I don't see how you guys are saying it STARTS to smell.... It smells when you take it out of the box.


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12815823*
> Well i used the stock tubing, And I had to replace it in 4-6 weeks, Because it turned brown and started to smell. It doesn't always happen, But it seems to happen quite abit. I would look into using different tubing


eEw did you use pt nuke? or anyother type of biocide


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;12816314*
> eEw did you use pt nuke? or anyother type of biocide


It doesn't matter if you used it or not. It's plasticizer.


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12816327*
> It doesn't matter if you used it or not. It's plasticizer.


so the tubing that came with the kit will always do this within 4-6 weeks?









if it does, someone tell me because it is such a pain detaching 7/16 tubing from 1/2 barbs.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12816274*
> I don't see how you guys are saying it STARTS to smell.... It smells when you take it out of the box.


My tubing really didn't smell, But my rad did







When i took my side panel the whole pc had this really bad rubber like smell, And it really shouldn't look like this. When I started to taking the loop apart the stuff started to come off the tubing and floating in the water, But the water was clear other then that.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;12816455*
> so the tubing that came with the kit will always do this within 4-6 weeks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if it does, someone tell me because it is such a pain detaching 7/16 tubing from 1/2 barbs.


Sometimes it doesn't, But it seems to happen alot. I had to cut my tubing off the barbs.


----------



## badatgames18

ok, i guess i'll get on frozen cpu and order me some tygon


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Just started to fit the reservoir from the 750 240 kit into my bitfenix colossus, and just have a couple of questions. Should it be a really tight fit in the drive bays, i had to push pretty hard to get it in!! should it easily slide in and out or would that mean that it would rattle. Should i file the hard drive bay spacers down a bit?

Thanks Tony


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84;12816509*
> Just started to fit the reservoir from the 750 240 kit into my bitfenix colossus, and just have a couple of questions. Should it be a really tight fit in the drive bays, i had to push pretty hard to get it in!! should it easily slide in and out or would that mean that it would rattle. Should i file the hard drive bay spacers down a bit?
> 
> Thanks Tony


it should slide right it just like a dvd or blu ray.... you must not have aligned it properly or something in your drive bay is protruding and blocking the res. Atleast it slides in easily with my haf 932


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;12816314*
> eEw did you use pt nuke? or anyother type of biocide


Im using a killcoil, And my water was clear its the tubing


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12816550*
> Im using a killcoil, And my water was clear its the tubing


I just took another whiff of my loop and it really smells badly of plastic. Its that chemical plasticy smell... idk its hard to describe, but does that mean mine will do the same. crap... is primochill tubing good? because tygon is slightly expensive and isn't colored


----------



## Awaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84;12816509*
> Just started to fit the reservoir from the 750 240 kit into my bitfenix colossus, and just have a couple of questions. Should it be a really tight fit in the drive bays, i had to push pretty hard to get it in!! should it easily slide in and out or would that mean that it would rattle. Should i file the hard drive bay spacers down a bit?
> 
> Thanks Tony


My first pump was really hard to put in the 5.25" bay. Had to use some muscle and had to file one of those copper looking screw skirts on the res. Pump was noisy as heck. Got a new pump and it just slides in like butter. I think their measurements are off on some.
You need to either file the drive bay area a bit or (like I did) spread apart the drive area as best I could (using my arnold like muscles) while my wife pushed the pump in.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;12816574*
> I just took another whiff of my loop and it really smells badly of plastic. Its that chemical plasticy smell... idk its hard to describe, but does that mean mine will do the same. crap... is primochill tubing good? because tygon is slightly expensive and isn't colored


Yea sounds like the same kind of smell a had. It is hard to describe. I replaced my tubing with PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing, But it's not been long enough to know if its going to hold up longer


----------



## Awaz

Also, can I join this club? I finally able to call my rig done. Got the RX360 kit - sig rig.


----------



## Awaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;12816574*
> I just took another whiff of my loop and it really smells badly of plastic. Its that chemical plasticy smell... idk its hard to describe, but does that mean mine will do the same. crap... is primochill tubing good? because tygon is slightly expensive and isn't colored


I am using primochill black tubing. Can't say I am noticing any smell.


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awaz;12816667*
> I am using primochill black tubing. Can't say I am noticing any smell.


great, that was the one i was eying


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;12816531*
> it should slide right it just like a dvd or blu ray.... you must not have aligned it properly or something in your drive bay is protruding and blocking the res. Atleast it slides in easily with my haf 932


Think i found the culprit!!! the screws holding in the the tool less optical bay were pertruding out catching the reservoir


----------



## sockpirate

so i shouldn't go with stock TUBING? I thought a silver kill coil would keep stuff like that from happening?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12817579*
> so i shouldn't go with stock TUBING? I thought a silver kill coil would keep stuff like that from happening?


Its keeps the water clear. Theres not much you can do about the tubing. But getting better tubing is only like $10


----------



## Blue Destroyer

what size is the tubing? looking at ordering a new set to replace the stock crud.

and if it dosnt come with the mounting for 1155 where do i get it?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12817675*
> what size is the tubing? looking at ordering a new set to replace the stock crud.
> 
> and if it dosnt come with the mounting for 1155 where do i get it?


7/16in. ID, 5/8in. OD, and 1155 is the same as 1156 so your good.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12817659*
> Its keeps the water clear. Theres not much you can do about the tubing. But getting better tubing is only like $10


Yeah i wanna go with either white or black. Any suggestions? I will be buying from frozen cpu. Links would be extremely helpful. I will be going with the rasa 240 since the 360 wont fit with my Torture rack


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12817675*
> what size is the tubing? looking at ordering a new set to replace the stock crud.
> 
> and if it dosnt come with the mounting for 1155 where do i get it?


1155 and 1156 use the same mount.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;12816678*
> great, that was the one i was eying


I don't notice any bad smell with the Primochill tubing but as I bought clear it still clouded up and discolored after one month. I guess with colored tubing at least you wont have to look at the discoloration. Haven't decided if that's the way I'll go or not, colored or clear, but I think I'll have to give tygon a try.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12817720*
> Yeah i wanna go with either white or black. Any suggestions? I will be buying from frozen cpu. Links would be extremely helpful. I will be going with the rasa 240 since the 360 wont fit with my Torture rack


here is black:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s809


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12817737*
> 1155 and 1156 use the same mount.


thanks, as you can tell, im a NOOB!!!lol

and what is the length of tubing i should order? 10ft?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12817753*
> thanks, as you can tell, im a NOOB!!!lol
> 
> and what is the length of tubing i should order? 10ft?


I got 8ft and I have 2ft left over and thats with a RX360 and RX120


----------



## mbudden

Grab the tubing off of Amazon. 10FT for 16$.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Tubing-16in-8in-10ft/dp/B0047Q428E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1300751727&sr=8-2]Amazon.com: PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft pack): Electronics[/URL]


----------



## ezveedub

I use a slight amount of G12 coolant in my system and it never has any smell. It only leaves a slight pink coating to the inside of any clear tubing, but it never really gets cloudy. The coolant mix actually turns clear after a few days of running.


----------



## XxGrave

The stock tubing after 8 hours of running under load.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## mbudden

Yep.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxGrave;12818814*
> The stock tubing after 8 hours of running under load.
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Normal, like MBudden said.


----------



## Havoknova

You guys buy a black or white or colored tubes in general and u will never have a problem on those tubing brownish colors..

Btw black and white tubing are smexy =)


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


You guys buy a black or white or colored tubes in general and u will never have a problem on those tubing brownish colors..

Btw black and white tubing are smexy =)


My red will be here thursday









And my search for AP-15's is making me feel hopeless =(


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


My red will be here thursday









And my search for AP-15's is making me feel hopeless =(


AP 14's on amazon and ebay.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


You guys buy a black or white or colored tubes in general and u will never have a problem on those tubing brownish colors..

Btw black and white tubing are smexy =)


Only draw back to that is, I'd rather see what is actually happening inside my system as this discoloration (in my case at least) does wipe off as if it's a coating of some sort or extremely fine particle build up after the tubing is removed and dries for a few minutes. It's really kind of scary just how easy this stuff comes off with just the lightest of touch. I don't want to imagine what it might do over time if left in the system and simply out of sight from being covered by a colored tube.


----------



## mbudden

Doesn't really bother me much, because when it comes time for me to replace the tubing. I will do a full flush on everything to make sure nothing is left over.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12821619*
> Doesn't really bother me much, because when it comes time for me to replace the tubing. I will do a full flush on everything to make sure nothing is left over.


I see your point, maybe after the novelty wares off a bit I can join you in that same procedure lol. I guess I wasn't expecting to have to change out the tubing so often. But I'm learning fast. Maybe now after spending all weekend to obtain my latest OC (in sig) the tubing might not load up as fast due to so many hours of being in warp drive while testing with prime95 lol.


----------



## ryujin

Just recieved most of my w/c set up and went with mostly XSPC components. Sadly, I am waiting for a few more things.... like a few barbs, sli connector and a t6 screw driver so I can remove the stock cooling off of my 570s



I'm still not sure if im going to use the 120mm rad yet... any suggestions?


----------



## KillerMike84

Hey guys I have a few ?'s about the watercooling setup do you think I need Bitspower G1/4" Silver Shining Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (BP-45R) for my CPU water block I'm doing barbs on the setup i don't feel comfort using Compression Fitting just yet but Do I need adapter yes or no I want save the money but if it needs it I get it help me out and thank you again just remember my case its open test bleach


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerMike84;12822834*
> Hey guys I have a few ?'s about the watercooling setup do you think I need Bitspower G1/4" Silver Shining Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (BP-45R) for my CPU water block I'm doing barbs on the setup i don't feel comfort using Compression Fitting just yet but Do I need adapter yes or no I want save the money but if it needs it I get it help me out and thank you again just remember my case its open test bleach


You should do fine DEPENDING on how much space you will have inside the case and how/where you will mount your rad. That's where you need to get creative.

Basically, normal/regular fittings are more than enough to start off with or "get your feet wet". You would just need to use a bit more tubing and imagination to get a nice installation and avoid the tube from kinking. YOU DO NOT WANT KINKS IN THE TUBING. THIS CREATES RESTRICTION WHICH LOWERS WATER FLOW BASICALLY AND MAKES THE PUMP HAVE TO WORK A BIT HARDER. Nice little trick with normal/regular fittings is to get them one size larger than the inside diameter of the tubing. For example, 7/16" inside diameter tubing on a 1/2" outside diameter fitting. This creates a tighter fitting and helps prevent leaks. The downside of this method is that sometimes to remove the tubing (maintenance and such) you may have to cut the tubing to get it off. If you go the same fitting size as the inside diameter of the tubing, then clamps are highly suggested. Clamps should match the outside diameter of the tubing. Try using compression type clamps or screw type clamps. I do not entirely trust the plastic clamps bvut that is a personal opinion.

Angle fittings help to shorten tube length as well as help create a straighter tube connection between components. It provides a cleaner installation look as well. You have fixed and rotary fittings. Rotary will tend to be the most expensive and they provide the easiest of connections when done right.

Compression fittings help in making easier connections.


----------



## KillerMike84

Thank you here is my AMD RedFlash i check everything I cool with all the stuff I have here some picture of PC


----------



## Kahbrohn

I am assuming you will switching from the H50 to an XSPC system then?

I really like those removable trays. That would be the only feature I would like to see on my HAF 932.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryujin;12822798*
> Just recieved most of my w/c set up and went with mostly XSPC components. Sadly, I am waiting for a few more things.... like a few barbs, sli connector and a t6 screw driver so I can remove the stock cooling off of my 570s
> 
> I'm still not sure if im going to use the 120mm rad yet... any suggestions?


I doubt you needed three rads. But it never hurts to have more


----------



## KillerMike84

I was still new at this watercooling i was scared a little but i looking around study a lot more it was easy a pie so this my next test for me as Custom PC Builder so yeah I can't wait for XSPC Rasa 450 RS120 WaterCooling Kit & the reason i can't get Crosshair IV over clock at 4.0GHz stable H50 is not good with 965 Black its driving me crazy so i want to do this taking for days now


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerMike84;12823644*
> I was still new at this watercooling i was scared a little but i looking around study a lot more it was easy a pie so this my next test for me as Custom PC Builder so yeah I can't wait for XSPC Rasa 450 RS120 WaterCooling Kit & the reason i can't get Crosshair IV over clock at 4.0GHz stable H50 is not good with 965 Black its driving me crazy so i want to do this taking for days now


Whats good about the kit is that it will allow you to build up in the future. I used to have the 965BE and because of my high ambient temperatures, I could never get to 4 Ghz. I have since upgraded my cooling as well as my CPU (1090T) and I hit 4 Ghz. with no problem. You may have to tweak a bit to get the 965BE up there but I am sure you will not have a problem.


----------



## KillerMike84

your right in way this just toy for so i can get 1155 ASUS MAXIMUS IV EXTREME jump for me is intel new sandybridge or just wait for the AMD 8 cores or 12 cores i get bored for now


----------



## sockpirate

So i am about ready to place my order, is this everything i need?
This is all going on my torture rack, i will ONLY be cooling my cpu for now.
Ready to place order just want an OK from you guys, never done this before.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_-HOT.html Rasa 240 Kit

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html silver kill coil

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive.html biocidal drops

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html getting 10 feet cause i am a noob and WILL mess up.









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2248/ex-tub-04/Tube_Cutter.html Tube cutter


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12798478*
> So far, CPU stress testa are 61C @ 4.0Ghz OC, memory at stick 1600. While gaming with both 6870s running slightly higher clocks, 925 gpu, 1075 memory and @ 4Ghz CPU, 51C CPU, 54C on 6870s. Working very well on single RX360 rad with push fans at 1800 rpms.


I have to make some corrections to my temp values. I found out that during my water loop additions, when I had my CPU out and I moved a few socket pins with the tip of my finger, misplacing them on the CPU. Needless to say, the Mobo was only seeing half my DDR3 (4gB), but otherwise ran perfectly fine. SO, I fixed it last night and did some more bench tests. The CPU is now really up there in temps. Maximum temp was 72C in LinX after 3 hours of Furmark on the GPUs for a burn-in first. The GPUs only get up to 54C after 3 hours and then the CPU was benched for 10 passes on LinX with full memory used with a maximum of 72C showing. The GPUs have been OC slightly also at 1000 gpu/1215 memory @ 1.205 volts. Comparing the CPU temps between Asus PC Probe and HW Monitor though do have some differences. When Asus PC Probe shows 72C, HW Monitor has my cores at 68-69C only.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerMike84;12823731*
> your right in way this just toy for so i can get 1155 ASUS MAXIMUS IV EXTREME jump for me is intel new sandybridge or just wait for the AMD 8 cores or 12 cores i get bored for now


This questions goes a bit beyond the scope of this thread but as a personal opinion, I'd wait for the AMD's to come out and then compare. I am just not the type of person to go out and buy something that has no real competition. I like to compare. I'd hate to buy the SB and then find out later on that the AMD counterpart is just as good and much cheaper. I switched to AMD a few years ago and honestly, I am happy with the choice. But... I am not a hard core OC'er either. As long as I can play my games and watch my movies with no problem, I am perfectly fine and in no need of more powerful and expensive CPU's.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12823815*
> So i am about ready to place my order, is this everything i need?
> This is all going on my torture rack, i will ONLY be cooling my cpu for now.
> Ready to place order just want an OK from you guys, never done this before.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_-HOT.html Rasa 240 Kit
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html silver kill coil
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive.html biocidal drops
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html getting 10 feet cause i am a noob and WILL mess up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2248/ex-tub-04/Tube_Cutter.html Tube cutter


Since its on the rack, use the RX240 kit instead of the RS.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12823862*
> Since its on the rack, use the RX240 kit instead of the RS.


why is that ?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12823815*
> So i am about ready to place my order, is this everything i need?
> This is all going on my torture rack, i will ONLY be cooling my cpu for now.
> Ready to place order just want an OK from you guys, never done this before.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_-HOT.html Rasa 240 Kit
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html silver kill coil
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive.html biocidal drops
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html getting 10 feet cause i am a noob and WILL mess up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2248/ex-tub-04/Tube_Cutter.html Tube cutter


IMO, a good pair of scissors will do but the tube cutter may give you a cleaner cut. Could use those $11 later on for black fitting in the future or something.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12823885*
> IMO, a good pair of scissors will do but the tube cutter may give you a cleaner cut. Could use those $11 later on for black fitting in the future or something.


So i am good to go ? that other guy said to go with the RX 240 instead of the one that comes with the kit. Why is that ?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12823882*
> why is that ?


RS radiator is thinner and has more fins per inch, so you need higher speed fans, as where the RX radiator uses less fins per inch, so you can run your fans at a lower RPM for same cooling. Plus the thicker RX can absorb more heat.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12823932*
> RS radiator is thinner and has more fins per inch, so you need higher speed fans, as where the RX radiator uses less fins per inch, so you can run your fans at a lower RPM for same cooling. Plus the thicker RX can absorb more heat.


This...

It would allow you to expand a bit in the future without having to invest in a new radiator then. I think the price difference between the 120 and the RX240 is between $20-40 making it a better option to simply getting it now IMO. The 240 will give you an extra edge in cooling for a very affordable price.


----------



## sockpirate

thanks everyone!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12821432*
> My red will be here thursday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my search for AP-15's is making me feel hopeless =(


Keep looking, and check daily because once someone gets them in they don't last long if they are a good price. If you have a RX rad you may just want to go with AP-14's, you won't get that much more performance with the AP-15's. But if you have a RS rad then you really want the AP-15's.


----------



## wermad

Gt are great, but if you need some good fans, look into Yates. They' re inexpensive too


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12821596*
> Only draw back to that is, I'd rather see what is actually happening inside my system as this discoloration (in my case at least) does wipe off as if it's a coating of some sort or extremely fine particle build up after the tubing is removed and dries for a few minutes. It's really kind of scary just how easy this stuff comes off with just the lightest of touch. I don't want to imagine what it might do over time if left in the system and simply out of sight from being covered by a colored tube.


It's most likely residual flux left over from the radiator. Check this thread over at XS-

Thermochill rad flux cleanup


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12825129*
> Keep looking, and check daily because once someone gets them in they don't last long if they are a good price. If you have a RX rad you may just want to go with AP-14's, you won't get that much more performance with the AP-15's. But if you have a RS rad then you really want the AP-15's.


This is what I have been thinking about and I believe I read this somewhere already but I have not been able to find that other post to see what else was said. I did have a chance to post this earlier in the thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12691325*
> For those who ask about static pressure for the GT AP-14/15 fans, here is some info I found that I think will be useful and will serve as a base of reference for you in the event you decide the GT's are too pricey.
> 
> - *Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B2AP-14* - 1450 RPM/50 CFM/21 DBA, _1.2954 mmH20 static pressure_, 3-pin power connector w/ 4-pin adapter, dual ball bearings.
> 
> - *Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B2AP-15* - 1850 RPM/57 CFM/28 DBA, _2.0574 mmH20 static pressure_, 3-pin power connector w/ 4-pin adapter, dual ball bearings.
> 
> Source: GND-Tech (More/Other fan info found on this site)


Just not sure if the AP-14 has the static pressure or not. I do recall reading once that for rad's it's best to have a static pressure of 2 mmH2O or above. Once again... I have not come across that post since to confirm... :-(


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Im going to wait for the 15's even if I have to get them one by one.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Havoknova

Try yateloons..and there awesome..

Now i got some cooler master 2000 rpm fans x6...cant wait for my rx360 rad...

The cooler master fans will be goin to my rs360 rad and my yateloons will be goin to my rx360..hehehe

Yateloons are pretty awesome...and cheap too..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12827163*
> Try yateloons..and there awesome..
> 
> Now i got some cooler master 2000 rpm fans x6...cant wait for my rx360 rad...
> 
> The cooler master fans will be goin to my rs360 rad and my yateloons will be goin to my rx360..hehehe
> 
> Yateloons are pretty awesome...and cheap too..


I have to agree with this. I put 3 YL high speeds on my rad. Hooked them up to the mobo and have them on a 70% duty cycle and they are quiet and you just feel the air being pushed through the rad. You can go to 80% duty and you will hear them but not an unbearable sound. If you are in an air conditioned or a rather cool place, 60% dutry cycle will be dead silent. $3.60/each? Hard to beat in my opinion.

Oh... and paint the fins red, white or your favorite color and they look damn nice. They paint well also.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12827017*
> Im going to wait for the 15's even if I have to get them one by one.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


At this point, if I were decided on GT's I would do this. the difference in CFM is not noticeable. DB-wise, there will be a bit of a noticeable difference here but maybe not a big deal unless you are nit picky about noise. The static pressure though... .800+ mmH2O difference seems like a lot IMO. I would want as much pressure as possible if I were installing on a rad.


----------



## Havoknova

Temp performace on my 1090t using yateloons at 4.3ghz is verygood..my ambient about 23-25+ and i idle at 30-33c..my load is at 62c max...pressure flow of air is significantly strong and quiet too..how quiet??? Well my 65% gpu fan is much louder and its inside my case than 6 of this fan outside my case...


----------



## rmp459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12827163*
> Try yateloons..and there awesome..
> 
> Now i got some cooler master 2000 rpm fans x6...cant wait for my rx360 rad...
> 
> The cooler master fans will be goin to my rs360 rad and my yateloons will be goin to my rx360..hehehe
> 
> Yateloons are pretty awesome...and cheap too..


i have ap-15's on my rx240, they are great!

But if i needed new fans, yates from jab-tech are a close second IMO... first fan since the ap-15s that i really like and perform.


----------



## SEN_ONE

Fed-ex dropped off my rs360 kit today. I only had enough time to open the box and quickly admire what was inside before leaving for work. Woo hoo!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12826124*
> 
> Just not sure if the AP-14 has the static pressure or not. I do recall reading once that for rad's it's best to have a static pressure of 2 mmH2O or above. Once again... I have not come across that post since to confirm... :-(


Martin's testing shows them to be equal until the AP-14 runs out of rpms. (Hint: the GT's are the only fans in the bottom group)









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12827017*
> Im going to wait for the 15's even if I have to get them one by one.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Check out this thread, Martin spent a lot of time running these tests, and as he states make sure to watch the videos because the type of sound can make or break if you like a fan. The GT's seem to be one fan that people love or hate when it comes to type of sound they make.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/859483-round-6-fan-testing-working-thread.html


----------



## SEN_ONE

Holy cluster of a chart. I just went crossed eyed.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Martin's testing shows them to be equal until the AP-14 runs out of rpms. (Hint: the GT's are the only fans in the bottom group)










Check out this thread, Martin spent a lot of time running these tests, and as he states make sure to watch the videos because the type of sound can make or break if you like a fan. The GT's seem to be one fan that people love or hate when it comes to type of sound they make.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-thread.html


Holy Crap! That's an insane graph. So many hours must have gone into that.

OT: Do you know what program he used to create that graph? never seen anything like it. It looks 3D


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sockpirate*


Does the rasa 360 kit fit fine on the Torture rack ?


Check out this Torture Rack

http://www.overclock.net/11454661-post5649.html


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SEN_ONE;12831791*
> Holy cluster of a chart. I just went crossed eyed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12831934*
> Holy Crap! That's an insane graph. So many hours must have gone into that.
> 
> OT: Do you know what program he used to create that graph? never seen anything like it. It looks 3D


Yes the chart is a little crowded but he does break down each fan in the tread. I'm not sure what program he used but I'm sure he will tell you if you ask. BTW he is using a new program to make graphs on his new website. Martin does very good testing on more than just fans. You can find it here
http://martinsliquidlab.org/


----------



## JMCB

Damn, I hate this kit. It got me addicted to watercooling. =P

Well I just gone done reinstalling the kit with new tubing (as the original tubing that came with it went green/brown in a few months time even with a kill coil), and with some compression fittings and some anti-kink wiring. Overall it looks a whole lot better. Did a good cleaning with boiling distilled water - opened up the block and found some gunk. Smelled like algae. Cleaned it out with some boiled distilled water.

Will post pics soon, after the leak test is done.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SEN_ONE;12830229*
> Fed-ex dropped off my rs360 kit today. I only had enough time to open the box and quickly admire what was inside before leaving for work. Woo hoo!


Lucky









FedEx decided not to deliver my package today (package needs sig and they showed up super early than normal)







, going to pick it up tomorrow.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12830406*
> Martin's testing shows them to be equal until the AP-14 runs out of rpms. (Hint: the GT's are the only fans in the bottom group)
> 
> Check out this thread, Martin spent a lot of time running these tests, and as he states make sure to watch the videos because the type of sound can make or break if you like a fan. The GT's seem to be one fan that people love or hate when it comes to type of sound they make.


So, could we say that in a high ambient temp environment, the AP-14's wont be as effective? Based on the chart (and as you point out) the 14's are an option ONLY up to a certain point.

This is also a concern. This is like the Saab type cars. You either like them or you hate them. Be a PITA to spend the money they cost and find out you don't like them but I will admit, I see more comments on liking them than comments on not liking them. In fact, I'd say the only negative comments I have heard is the "high pitched whine" of the blades at high speeds. Something I'd say is controllable with a fan controller but then youd have to see how much effectiveness you would loose.


----------



## Kahbrohn

This is a bit OT BUT... if your WC loop fails, try updating the BIOS. Maybe that would fix the rattling pump issue???

Read...


----------



## mbudden

LOL. Wow... Just wow...


----------



## rugox

Hey guys,

So it has come down to this. The XSPC RS240 Kit or the EK Complete watercooling H30 240. The EK is considerably higher in price as it goes for 100 dollars more. So, I need you guys' opinions. Is the brand quality and reliability of EK that much more worth it with the extra 100 dollars or, should I opt for the cheaper solution that provides the bang for the buck as in XSPC?

P.S. I would have gone for RX240 but the rad may be too thick for my case.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rugox*


Hey guys,

So it has come down to this. The XSPC RS240 Kit or the EK Complete watercooling H30 240. The EK is considerably higher in price as it goes for 100 dollars more. So, I need you guys' opinions. Is the brand quality and reliability of EK that much more worth it with the extra 100 dollars or, should I opt for the cheaper solution that provides the bang for the buck as in XSPC?

P.S. I would have gone for RX240 but the rad may be too thick for my case.


XSPC... and I don't say that because I own one. IMO the extra 1*C temperature decrease you would gain by paying $100 more is not worth it in my opinion. You can upgrade the XSPC kit just as much as you can the EK kit. The $100 you'll save will allow you to go with better looking tubing, rotary fittings (should your install be too tight in that case), acquire better quality fans for the rad (GT AP-15's for example) and such.

Not knocking the EK kit now. It is a good kit and all. Just too expensive in my mind for the performance in comparison to XSPC kit.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


XSPC... and I don't say that because I own one. IMO the extra 1*C temperature decrease you would gain by paying $100 more is not worth it in my opinion. You can upgrade the XSPC kit just as much as you can the EK kit. The $100 you'll save will allow you to go with better looking tubing, rotary fittings (should your install be too tight in that case), acquire better quality fans for the rad (GT AP-15's for example) and such.

Not knocking the EK kit now. It is a good kit and all. Just too expensive in my mind for the performance in comparison to XSPC kit.


I agree,XSPC


----------



## Havoknova

xspc for starting ur loop then if ur goin to go on bigger loops then piece by piece it...but on kit wise WC XSPC is wer its at...


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Woot!!!! now just waiting on Motherboard tomorow and case on friday!!!!!

EDIT: and its red...not orange dam phone camera


----------



## mbudden

Kahbrohn, funny joke you sent me this morning.


----------



## rugox

Thanks guys. I made the decision and pulled the trigger on RASA RX240 kit. It was the last one in stock too hehe. Anywho, I also ordered distilled water, biocide, and kill coil. Anything I've left out?

Also, I would like to replace the tubing with colored ones, preferably UV ones. My case has an aluminum interior with red RAM sticks, and the ASUS board which has bits of black, blue, and white. What color do you guys suggest? I was thinking a white tube with blue UV.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;12844220*
> Thanks guys. I made the decision and pulled the trigger on RASA RX240 kit. It was the last one in stock too hehe. Anywho, I also ordered distilled water, biocide, and kill coil. Anything I've left out?
> 
> Also, I would like to replace the tubing with colored ones, preferably UV ones. My case has an aluminum interior with red RAM sticks, and the ASUS board which has bits of black, blue, and white. What color do you guys suggest? I was thinking a white tube with blue UV.


You got all that is needed. White would be the best choice. You can never go wrong with white or black tubing.


----------



## AMOCO

Blue or black would look good:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8276/ex-tub-433/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c99s809









Black:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s809


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;12844271*
> Blue or black would look good:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8276/ex-tub-433/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c99s809
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s809


Frozen is waaay to expensive, I just ordered 10 ft of the blue from amazon for 16 bucks, 10 ft there would be 22.50 + tax & Shipping, where amazon was free 2 day for me with no tax

[ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FPrimoFlex-Blue-Tubing-2in-4in%2Fdp%2FB000ZJTM4G%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1300925976%26sr%3D8-1]http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Blue-Tubing-2in-4in/dp/B000ZJTM4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300925976&sr=8-1"]http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Blue-Tubing-2in-4in/dp/B000ZJTM4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300925976&sr=8-1[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;12844476*
> Frozen is waaay to expensive, I just ordered 10 ft of the blue from amazon for 16 bucks, 10 ft there would be 22.50 + tax & Shipping, where amazon was free 2 day for me with no tax
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Blue-Tubing-2in-4in/dp/B000ZJTM4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300925976&sr=8-1


same, i just ordered the red and man is it pretty, and i got free shipping


----------



## HiLuckyB

I hope you guys know this is the same as stock 7/16in. ID http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Blue-Tubing-16in-8in/dp/B0041LW5I4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1300926781&sr=1-2]Amazon.com: PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft pack): Electronics[/URL]


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12844551*
> same, i just ordered the red and man is it pretty, and i got free shipping


That got me excited, my red will be here tomorrow ^_^

its weird seeing mbudden's picture as something other than charmander =\


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12844726*
> That got me excited, my red will be here tomorrow ^_^
> 
> its weird seeing mbudden's picture as something other than charmander =\


last page has the pics of the red tubing...and yes its the 7/16 one. looks a little orange in the pics but it is a nice pretty red.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12844726*
> That got me excited, my red will be here tomorrow ^_^
> 
> its weird seeing mbudden's picture as something other than charmander =\


Haha. Got to change it up sometimes, I usually change it back in a day or two


----------



## joeyac02

Im new to this kit I got the 240 just hooked it up today what temps should I be getting im running 1055t 3.5 at 1.4 voltz this is what I got under load 35c on the cores, temp1 I believe is case temp under load max was 31c and temp0 CPU temp max under load was 48c

not too sure what to expect


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12844834*
> Haha. Got to change it up sometimes, I usually change it back in a day or two


You actually look cute in that pix there mbudden...


----------



## mbudden

Haha.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12844848*
> You actually look cute in that pix there mbudden...


+1 lol


----------



## spitty13

Well it looks like I've caught the watercooling bug and will be picking up the RS240. Can't believe I went from adding a hyper 212 to shopping cart a week ago to posting in this thread now. Quite a transition but I know that if I got the hyper 212 I would always wonder what potential I could have had with a WC system. I think this will be a fun weekend project.

It also looks like a few people in this thread have got their 2500k up to 5ghz and if I get anywhere close to touching those numbers I would be pumped. I'll be sure to get pictures as soon as I have it built.


----------



## SEN_ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;12844476*
> Frozen is waaay to expensive, I just ordered 10 ft of the blue from amazon for 16 bucks, 10 ft there would be 22.50 + tax & Shipping, where amazon was free 2 day for me with no tax
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Blue-Tubing-2in-4in/dp/B000ZJTM4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300925976&sr=8-1


Thanks for posting that deal!! I just ordered some in black. I'm now looking for different fittings to work with how I'm setting it up.


----------



## HAGNK

will the RX 240 fit in the top of the CM 690 II ADV?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HAGNK*


will the RX 240 fit in the top of the CM 690 II ADV?


The thickness of the RX plus adding a 25mm thick fan may make it a problem. In my old HAF 922 (roughly same size) using the RS plus a 25mm thick fan would have been right next to the RAM clips making installation of the RAM sticks a bit of a problem. Using the RX rad would most likely overlap the ram slots.

This picture (showing just the 25 mm thick fan) appears to already have the fan already close to the mobo once it were installed.










Seems like there is a "cubbyhole" area above the fan in the picture but not sure. If so it would be worth seeing if the rad can go there and what thickness of a rad. Length-wise the 240 appears to fit. You may want to browse the 690 case club thread to see if anyone there has a top mounted rad.


----------



## HAGNK

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


The thickness of the RX plus adding a 25mm thick fan may make it a problem. In my old HAF 922 (roughly same size) using the RS plus a 25mm thick fan would have been right next to the RAM clips making installation of the RAM sticks a bit of a problem. Using the RX rad would most likely overlap the ram slots.

This picture (showing just the 25 mm thick fan) appears to already have the fan already close to the mobo once it were installed.

SNIP

Seems like there is a "cubbyhole" area above the fan in the picture but not sure. If so it would be worth seeing if the rad can go there and what thickness of a rad. Length-wise the 240 appears to fit. You may want to browse the 690 case club thread to see if anyone there has a top mounted rad.


so i have to go with the rs rad? and mount the fans externally on top


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HAGNK*


so i have to go with the rs rad? and mount the fans externally on top


You might... all depends on the available spacing from the top of the case down to the mobo and to the RAM slots mainly. If you have the case on hand, measure from the top of the case (where the top fan is installed on) down to the ram stick slot clips and let me know. I have the measurements of the RX and RS on hand and can tell you real quick.

EDIT (need to step out for a bit here):

RX240 + 25mm fan = 88mm = 3.5"

RS240 + 25mm fan = 60mm = 2.4"

(this is using just one fan on the rad - add an additional 25mm (1") for a push/pull setup)

You can consider a rear mount and do something like this:


----------



## Kahbrohn

Interesting cases by XSPC...


----------



## HAGNK

40mm from the rad mount, 75 from the top of the top bezel


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HAGNK*


40mm from the rad mount, 75 from the top of the top bezel


Hmmm... I don't see it happening then. Rad with no fan would fit but you will need those fans obviously.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Interesting cases by XSPC...


Don't you have to assemble those with thumb screws


----------



## pwnography6

Finally restocked the RS240 kits in australia so got mine on pre order is it just me or is the 7/16" hose hard to find in colours ? i cant find any UV green anywhere but the UK.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


Finally restocked the RS240 kits in australia so got mine on pre order is it just me or is the 7/16" hose hard to find in colours ? i cant find any UV green anywhere but the UK.


Really? Damn. I believe most US retailers have them in stock. I just got some Primochill red, 7/16" ID from Jab Tech. They have your tubing in stock but not sure if they ship your way.


----------



## pwnography6

+1 for tracking it down for me dude!!

im still a couple weeks of getting a rig together for this kit but il post phootos wen i recieve it and again wen i install it


----------



## mbudden

Yeah, I had seen their cases when I visited their page yesterday.


----------



## kingofyo1

getting my 800d in today, will be posting pics of every freaking thing possible, every step i do with it, so expect photobomb


----------



## mbudden

I love that their cases are brushed aluminum. I'd pay for that.


----------



## Havoknova

I think ill be holding on the 6990 and get me a BIGGER case...im talking about BIG....

Case labs TH10 or the up coming TX10..lolz

Omg please shoot me now!!!!!

Im so addicted already...

Is there a rehab for computer mod addiction??


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


I think ill be holding on the 6990 and get me a BIGGER case...im talking about BIG....

Case labs TH10 or the up coming TX10..lolz

Omg please shoot me now!!!!!

Im so addicted already...

*Is there a rehab for computer mod addiction??*


Yeah... Bird house building but the last guy who tried attempted to water cool it.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yeah... Bird house building but the last guy who tried attempted to water cool it.


Well on bird house huilding u need to use nails and hammer..i want something that i can use thumb screws wahahaha


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Well on bird house huilding u need to use nails and hammer..i want something that i can use thumb screws wahahaha


Then build something like these guys do and trust me, you wont ever mod anything else again... These are works of art.


----------



## ChickenInferno

Anyone manage to fit an RS240, RX240, or RS360 kit in a Haf 912 (internally)?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Then build something like these guys do and trust me, you wont ever mod anything else again... These are works of art.


My rig will be a present for my girl..so i need to make a new 1...i want something extreme for my upcoming bulldozer rig...is there a xspc rx480 kit??lolz


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


My rig will be a present for my girl..so i need to make a new 1...i want something extreme for my upcoming bulldozer rig...is there a xspc rx480 kit??lolz


Not a kit specifically but they do have the rad... So you just build off it!


----------



## rugox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SEN_ONE;12848907*
> Thanks for posting that deal!! I just ordered some in black. I'm now looking for different fittings to work with how I'm setting it up.


Wait, I don't HAVE to use a 7/16 ID tube right? I ordered a 1/2 ID 3/4OD.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;12854326*
> Wait, I don't HAVE to use a 7/16 ID tube right? I ordered a 1/2 ID 3/4OD.


Nope.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;12854326*
> Wait, I don't HAVE to use a 7/16 ID tube right? I ordered a 1/2 ID 3/4OD.


That sort of tube is recommended for 1/2" 3/4" compression fittings. If you're gonna use that on 1/2" barbs get some hoseclamps.


----------



## rugox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12854422*
> That sort of tube is recommended for 1/2" 3/4" compression fittings. If you're gonna use that on 1/2" barbs get some hoseclamps.


Yeah, the kit comes with black plastic clamps so I'll be using those for the time being but will eventually get compression fittings.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;12854492*
> Yeah, the kit comes with black plastic clamps so I'll be using those for the time being but will eventually get compression fittings.


Stainless Steel screw-type hose clamps are very cheap and a good way to prevent leaks. A bag of 10 is like $3. I have personally not trusted the plastic clamps. I find them too easy to take off and I have not been able to get good pressure on them.


----------



## mbudden

Squeeze those suckers tight.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;12854492*
> Yeah, the kit comes with black plastic clamps so I'll be using those for the time being but will eventually get compression fittings.


I use the kit plastic clamps for looks, not for any measure of security. When you see how easy they go on (and snap off) with any tube movement, you'll understand.


----------



## NitroNarcosis

What are the stats on the included fans on the Rasa Kit(s) I am looking at the RX360 kit, and I wanted to do push/pull, but I was unsure if I should buy 3 GTs and use them in Pull with the 3 that come with the kit.


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Ive just recieved my rasa 750 240 kit and was going to fit it this weeknd,then after a week im off on business for 2 weeks and my pc wont be tuned on, is it ok to leaveit or will there be build up in the rad a tubes?

thanks tony


----------



## ezveedub

There shouldn't be any kind if build up at all. Use distilled water


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12854551*
> Squeeze those suckers tight.


i like this type of wordz....

squeeze them up and leaks will be prevented..lolz.


----------



## DannyB0y

Does anyone know where I can get the 1366 mounting kit for the block? I bought the kit the the screws were so poorly threaded I can seem to get the block to sit still.


----------



## uno_zapdos_tres

Just about to order my rasa 750 kit, along with some anti-microbial additive. Should I be using distilled water, or coolant? And distilled water specially for water cooling? or just some from the grocery store? And lastly, about how much fluid should I need to fill my loop and have a bit extra left over to top it off if needed?

Thanks

Edit: Also, let me know if I should buy anything else...like better clamps? Opinions please!


----------



## Dissentience

Regular ol distilled from the store is fine. Depending on the amount of tubing you should use around a liter. It is recommended to buy better tubing, the stuff that comes with the kit discolors quickly.


----------



## uno_zapdos_tres

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12858013*
> Regular ol distilled from the store is fine. Depending on the amount of tubing you should use around a liter. It is recommended to buy better tubing, the stuff that comes with the kit discolors quickly.


How is primochill tubing? Seems to be a good price for the 2 meters.


----------



## Dissentience

Primochill is good, I use it.


----------



## uno_zapdos_tres

How are the clamps? Would you recommend I get something better? Or do the tubes stay on just fine?


----------



## Dissentience

Stretching 7/16" ID hose over 1/2" barbs makes the tubes stay on fine, but I put the clamps that come with the kit on anyway.


----------



## liquoredonlife

You don't need clamps if you're using 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs. If you're bad at fractions, you're stretching tube 1/16". It's tight enough that it requires a razor blade to remove. If you're going to use 1/2" tube on 1/2" barbs, you definitely need some real clamps.


----------



## ezveedub

Hell, if you use Bitspower 1/2 barbs with 7/16 hose, you'll really need to cut the tubing off. They are larger than XSPC versions.


----------



## spitty13

What kind of overclock can one expect with an RS240 and a 2500k?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spitty13;12859602*
> What kind of overclock can one expect with an RS240 and a 2500k?


I would think you could get to 5GHz if you have a good chip


----------



## Dissentience

If you mount your waterblock well with good TIM then 4.5GHz easily, all the way up to 5 GHz if you got a good chip that plays nicely with voltage


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spitty13;12859602*
> What kind of overclock can one expect with an RS240 and a 2500k?


It really depends on your chip. Almost all the mobos are pretty good when overclocking. The RS240 just ensures your chip stays nice and cool. My 2500K @ 5Ghz is loading at 70C max with RS240 and AP-15s.


----------



## spitty13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12859627*
> I would think you could get to 5GHz if you have a good chip


That would be awesome. Hopefully the temperature for 5ghz wouldnt be too extreme?


----------



## HAGNK

would 3/8" tubing work with 1/2" barbs?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAGNK;12861124*
> would 3/8" tubing work with 1/2" barbs?


No, that tubing is too small.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

I just upgraded my system and the 1/2" barbs that come with the rasa kits are MINI compared to the 1/2" Bitspower barbs I got... Tubing slides pretty easily off the Rasa barbs, and need to be heated to get over the bitspower...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;12862171*
> I just upgraded my system and the 1/2" barbs that come with the rasa kits are MINI compared to the 1/2" Bitspower barbs I got... Tubing slides pretty easily off the Rasa barbs, and need to be heated to get over the bitspower...


The Bitspower barbs are larger. I have PrimoFlex 7/16" hose on the XSPC 1/2" barbs and it don't slide off easy. I have no clamps on some of the tubing also.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12862275*
> The Bitspower barbs are larger. I have *PrimoFlex 7/16" hose on the XSPC 1/2" barbs and it don't slide off easy*. I have no clamps on some of the tubing also.


Same here.


----------



## pwnography6

Ok so my RS240 kit is on order with an extra RX120 Rad what extra parts beside hose and fans will i need to install the extra rad?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;12863979*
> Ok so my RS240 kit is on order with an extra RX120 Rad what extra parts beside hose and fans will i need to install the extra rad?


Have the 8 fittings?


----------



## pwnography6

something like this for barbs?

http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3173


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;12865173*
> something like this for barbs?
> 
> http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3173


Check to make sure the extra rad doesn't already come with the 2 extra barbs. The kit comes with 6 barbs already (2 each for the rad, cpu water block and the res). If the extra rad doesn't come with the barbs, then those you linked will do.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Updated pix of my system.

This is what it looks like now inside my 932. Have plans for the future though.










This is what my home-made reservoir looks like. Once I know what interior decorating I will be doing in the future, I will do away with old Buster there and get something a bit more fancy. But I will say this. Easy as heck to fill and such. The cloth is mainly to prevent any vibration noise. Not one drop of water has leaked to date.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12869151*
> Updated pix of my system.
> 
> This is what it looks like now inside my 932. Have plans for the future though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what my home-made reservoir looks like. Once I know what interior decorating I will be doing in the future, I will do away with old Buster there and get something a bit more fancy. But I will say this. Easy as heck to fill and such. The cloth is mainly to prevent any vibration noise. Not one drop of water has leaked to date.


Make sure the cat stays away from it


----------



## Wicked_Bass

Add me to the list! My first watercooling build been wanting something for year and years. Finally made the leap and am overall very happy with my choice.

XSPC RS360
Swiftech MCW80
Aerocool Shark Black edition fans

Its not as fancy as some rigs here which I would give my first born and wife up for









Pics and any comments appreciated!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Make sure the cat stays away from it










DO NOT JINX ME NOW!!! Away foul creature!!!


----------



## joeyac02

stupid question I have the stock fittings from the 240 am I ok if I order 1/2 inner diameter hose?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyac02;12870393*
> stupid question I have the stock fittings from the 240 am I ok if I order 1/2 inner diameter hose?


I'd honestly go with 7/16 ID tubing. takes a little more to get on but it wont leak


----------



## joeyac02

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


I'd honestly go with 7/16 ID tubing. takes a little more to get on but it wont leak


thanks +1


----------



## pwnography6

ok cool so with 2 rads , the res/pump combo and the cpu block whats the best order for my loop?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


ok cool so with 2 rads , the res/pump combo and the cpu block whats the best order for my loop?


I have my RX360 before cpu and my RX120 after, But it doesn't really mater. What ever looks the best in you case


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


ok cool so with 2 rads , the res/pump combo and the cpu block whats the best order for my loop?


well mine got a rs360 and ek 240 and adding another rx360...lolz

OVERKILL!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


ok cool so with 2 rads , the res/pump combo and the cpu block whats the best order for my loop?


Was thinking about the same thing. I have the RX360, and just got an RX240. Now trying to picture how to put it together.


----------



## masustic

Can anybody tell me if i add a gpu to my rs360 kit will i need to add another rad? If so Will the pump be able to handle it.


----------



## kingofyo1

Welp, got my new case and everything put together. Me thinky you'll likey


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well guys heres my updated rig with new 5970 its the rx360 240 are handling the load pretty good.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Today I added my red tubing, re seated my nb/sb (40c where I was 50c before







), re routed my cables and added a DD fill port


----------



## Dissentience

I am considering getting a new case since mine has zero capacity for cable management (quite literally) and wasn't really designed with WC in mind at all (mbudden and I made it work though!). Any recommendations for a good case that has good cable management and will accommodate a 240 rad? The shorter the better, price has got to be reasonable (less than $200 hopefully) and side panel window gets bonus points!


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


I am considering getting a new case since mine has zero capacity for cable management (quite literally) and wasn't really designed with WC in mind at all (mbudden and I made it work though!). Any recommendations for a good case that has good cable management and will accommodate a 240 rad? The shorter the better, price has got to be reasonable (less than $200 hopefully) and side panel window gets bonus points!


I'm guessing the HAF 922 would suffice. The 932 is very popular, under your budget, and with enough room for an RX360. Cable management is there too.

Not sure of price, but the corsair 600 thru 800 series seem to be very good also.

With both the HAF and Corsair cases you have side panel window options.


----------



## Dissentience

The Haf 922 looks great, thanks for the suggestions


----------



## pwnography6

looks awsome guys !! anyone got photos up of there x2 rad setups preferably cpu only?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;12874368*
> looks awsome guys !! anyone got photos up of there x2 rad setups preferably cpu only?


Im not cpu only but heres both shots of my setup with 2 rads befor and after i added the 5970.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masustic;12872598*
> Can anybody tell me if i add a gpu to my rs360 kit will i need to add another rad? If so Will the pump be able to handle it.


You'll be good with the RS360 and the stock pump.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;12874368*
> looks awsome guys !! anyone got photos up of there x2 rad setups preferably cpu only?


Here is my HAF 932 with RX360 and RX120







Cpu only, Untill I have the money for a 6990 and a waterblock


----------



## pwnography6

yeah something very similar to urs im thinking LuckyB except the 120 would be at the bottom instead of the back


----------



## ryujin

Finally got mine together...






Didn't install the rs120 yet because I my girlfriend sat on my other 570 and shattered the pcb into several pieces







, so I figured it wasn't necessary till I recieve my new 570 but all in all I think it looks decent for my first build...


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;12875364*
> yeah something very similar to urs im thinking LuckyB except the 120 would be at the bottom instead of the back


Im mostly going to add a RX120 at the bottom of my 932 if I can make if fit next to my Psu







I wonder if the stock pump can do a Rx360, 2 RX120, CPU block, And a 6990 GPU block. Something tells me that it will be pushing it


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12875450*
> Im mostly going to add a RX120 at the bottom of my 932 if I can make if fit next to my Psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if the stock pump can do a Rx360, 2 RX120, CPU block, And a 6990 GPU block. Something tells me that it will be pushing it


iv been told the pump in the rasa kit is stronger then my mcp655-b and i have it running a rx360, rx240, rasa cpu block, ek 5870 block, and a heatkiller 5970 block and you seen my pic im using about 5-6 feet of tubing with my big case.


----------



## joeyac02

what are some good quiet fans that will still push good air for the 240 rad?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyac02;12876923*
> what are some good quiet fans that will still push good air for the 240 rad?


COMPLETELY SUBJECTIVE ANSWER HERE...

BEST ANSWER: GT AP-15's... if you can get them. AP-14's may also do the trick but they have a limit based on a chart posted by PapaSmurf back further in the thread here. The 14's are dead silent at 100% speed but don't have the static pressure the 15's have.

BEST CHEAP ALTERNATIVE: Yate Loon high speed's work nicely as long as you have a fan controller on them. I have mine connected to the mobo and tweaked down to 70% duty rate in the BIOS and the are fairly quiet. I'd say comparable to a normally working refrigerator at about 2 ft. of distance, maybe even less. You feel good air flow on the opposite side of the radiator in a push configuration. Go 60% duty rate and they are dead silent. I have thought about going push/pull with Yate Loon HS @ 60%.


----------



## HAGNK

is there an amd backplate in the kit or do i use the one that came with my Mobo?


----------



## Wicked_Bass

Quote:


> HAGNK is there an amd backplate in the kit or do i use the one that came with my Mobo?


There are back plates in the kit depending on what socket you mount it to.


----------



## HAGNK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wicked_Bass;12877036*
> There are back plates in the kit depending on what socket you mount it to.


AMD like i said in my original post


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wicked_Bass;12877036*
> There are back plates in the kit depending on what socket you mount it to.


The thing is that there are no AMD backplates.

You can get an AMD backplate from Jab Tech (for example) for $4.95. Personally, I dont use a back plate now. The kit has all you need to install without a backplate. Some other back plates from other setups would work. Look at the OP for some ideas.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAGNK;12877020*
> is there an amd backplate in the kit or do i use the one that came with my Mobo?


look at op, there is small modding guide by me for the stock amd backplate.


----------



## joeyac02

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


COMPLETELY SUBJECTIVE ANSWER HERE...

BEST ANSWER: GT AP-15's... if you can get them. AP-14's may also do the trick but they have a limit based on a chart posted by PapaSmurf back further in the thread here. The 14's are dead silent at 100% speed but don't have the static pressure the 15's have.

BEST CHEAP ALTERNATIVE: Yate Loon high speed's work nicely as long as you have a fan controller on them. I have mine connected to the mobo and tweaked down to 70% duty rate in the BIOS and the are fairly quiet. I'd say comparable to a normally working refrigerator at about 2 ft. of distance, maybe even less. You feel good air flow on the opposite side of the radiator in a push configuration. Go 60% duty rate and they are dead silent. I have thought about going push/pull with Yate Loon HS @ 60%.


ty sir +1


----------



## spRICE

Does anybody have a detailed diagram showing all of the measurements of a RS240 or RX240, ie fan spacing etc.? That would really help me with my case mod so I can plan ahead.


----------



## SEN_ONE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryujin*


Finally got mine together... 
Didn't install the rs120 yet because I my girlfriend sat on my other 570 and shattered the pcb into several pieces







, so I figured it wasn't necessary till I recieve my new 570 but all in all I think it looks decent for my first build...


That looks really good. Did you kill your girlfriend?


----------



## ryujin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SEN_ONE*


That looks really good. Did you kill your girlfriend?


I thought about it but then I realized that if I did then I would be the one buying a replacement... and also the long process of finding a place to hide the body (or bodies depending if there where any unforseen witnesses), cleaning up the blood, etc. It was just alot easier to let her buy a replacement...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryujin*


I thought about it but then I realized that if I did then I would be the one buying a replacement... and also the long process of finding a place to hide the body (or bodies depending if there where any unforseen witnesses), cleaning up the blood, etc. It was just alot easier to let her buy a replacement...


Don't worry, you'll be the one paying for it in the long run. Having a GF isn't free


----------



## SEN_ONE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryujin*


cleaning up the blood


Put it in your loop. That will teach her, and you wouldn't need the red tubing. WIN:WIN


----------



## ryujin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Don't worry, you'll be the one paying for it in the long run. Having a GF isn't free










Yeah good point, I just should have done it. Its still not too late







... I will be right back, I'm going to see if she wants to go for a walk near a dark alley









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SEN_ONE*


Put it in your loop. That will teach her, and you wouldn't need the red tubing. WIN:WIN


Thats true too, but I think I would have to upgrade my pump for that


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;12881170*
> Does anybody have a detailed diagram showing all of the measurements of a RS240 or RX240, ie fan spacing etc.? That would really help me with my case mod so I can plan ahead.


I have the measurements of the rads, but not with the fans etc. Fans are usually 25mm/35mm in height.

So it will be either 120x120x25mm or 120x120x35mm.

RS120
Dimensions: 121x35x155mm (WxDxH)

RS240
Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)

RS360
Dimensions: 121x35x397mm (WxDxH)

RX120
Dimensions: 124x63x164mm (WxDxH)

RX240
Dimensions: 124x63x280mm (WxDxH

RX360
Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH)

RX480
Dimensions: 124x63x520mm (WxDxH)


----------



## spRICE

I meant the space in between the fans when installed and the space between the bottom fan and the bottom of the radiator and things like that.
But thanks anyways!


----------



## Dissentience

Ordered a HAF 922! Gonna move the included top fan to the side panel and mount my rad on the top








Only thing is I'm gonna have to find a way to mount my MOSFET heatsink fan... right now it's mounted with zipties stuck through the holes of my case's vacant rear 120mm fan spot haha


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12884570*
> I have the measurements of the rads, but not with the fans etc. Fans are usually 25mm/35mm in height.
> 
> So it will be either 120x120x25mm or 120x120x35mm.
> 
> RS120
> Dimensions: 121x35x155mm (WxDxH)
> 
> RS240
> Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)
> 
> RS360
> Dimensions: 121x35x397mm (WxDxH)
> 
> RX120
> Dimensions: 124x63x164mm (WxDxH)
> 
> RX240
> Dimensions: 124x63x280mm (WxDxH
> 
> RX360
> Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH)
> 
> RX480
> Dimensions: 124x63x520mm (WxDxH)


You mean 38mm, not 35mm


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;12884853*
> I meant the space in between the fans when installed and the space between the bottom fan and the bottom of the radiator and things like that.
> But thanks anyways!


Fans are 25mm unless you go with 38mm, so you can add that to the thickness. If this isn't what you are looking for maybe you can draw something in paint.


----------



## bennieboi6969

i think what is meant is like this in the pic right?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12883158*
> Don't worry, you'll be the one paying for it in the long run. Having a GF isn't free


TRUE TRUE...

Mrs. Kah gave me a MCP655-B pump for my b-day... with my credit card though... Oh well...


----------



## Jobotoo

I finally put my kit together!

Feel free to add this post with images to the spreadsheet.

I used the barbs that came with the kit, and I also bought two 45 degree rotary compression fittings that I wanted to try out. One of the compression fittings was bad, and leaked (not at the compression part, but at the rotary part) . . . So I am glad I decided to get two extra barbs, "just in-case!"

Here is a pic of the CPU block with the bad compression fitting:









Not sure if I was just unlucky, as I thought compression fittings could never go bad . . . Needless to say, I now MUCH prefer barbs.

I installed a drainport and valve to my GPU block. (I stole the idea from liquoredonlife, thanks btw! Total +REP on that one.)

Here is a pic of my second leaktest, now with all barbs. You can see the drainport thing too.










And here is a closeup. You can see the RX360 a little better here too.









I'll get more picture later. I just wanted to make sure I got some up now.

System is running better than ever now, and very cool.









Thanks to all for the help and guidance.


----------



## spRICE

Ok, here is a diagram of what I would like to know. I think it is pretty straight forward:










Again, thanks for the help!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12885046*
> You mean 38mm, not 35mm


Yes, my bad.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;12889938*
> Ok, here is a diagram of what I would like to know. I think it is pretty straight forward:
> 
> Again, thanks for the help!


Interesting. If I can find a ruler, I'll most certainly help you out. Though I only have a RS rad, it seems that RS/RX rads are different heights.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12889647*
> I finally put my kit together!


Gotta love how sexy those RoG boards look


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


Ok, here is a diagram of what I would like to know. I think it is pretty straight forward:










Again, thanks for the help!


I just got out my ruler and it looks like:

35mm
15mm
20mm


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


Gotta love how sexy those RoG boards look


I really do.


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Interesting. If I can find a ruler, I'll most certainly help you out. Though I only have a RS rad, it seems that RS/RX rads are different heights.


Thanks!


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryujin*


Finally got mine together... 






Didn't install the rs120 yet because I my girlfriend sat on my other 570 and shattered the pcb into several pieces







, so I figured it wasn't necessary till I recieve my new 570 but all in all I think it looks decent for my first build...


looks awsome which tubing did you use


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


I finally put my kit together!

Feel free to add this post with images to the spreadsheet.

I used the barbs that came with the kit, and I also bought two 45 degree rotary compression fittings that I wanted to try out. One of the compression fittings was bad, and leaked (not at the compression part, but at the rotary part) . . . So I am glad I decided to get two extra barbs, "just in-case!"

Here is a pic of the CPU block with the bad compression fitting:









Not sure if I was just unlucky, as I thought compression fittings could never go bad . . . Needless to say, I now MUCH prefer barbs.

I installed a drainport and valve to my GPU block. (I stole the idea from liquoredonlife, thanks btw! Total +REP on that one.)

Here is a pic of my second leaktest, now with all barbs. You can see the drainport thing too.










And here is a closeup. You can see the RX360 a little better here too.









I'll get more picture later. I just wanted to make sure I got some up now.

System is running better than ever now, and very cool.









Thanks to all for the help and guidance.


Black tubings are sexy..


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Black tubings are sexy..


Thanks! If I redo tubing I might try white. I like that too, but black went well with motherboard.


----------



## ryujin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


looks awsome which tubing did you use


I used Primochill 7/16 ID UV red but to me it looks kind of orange under UV light so I left out the CCFL.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12890597*
> Thanks! If I redo tubing I might try white. I like that too, but black went well with motherboard.


decided after getting bad reviews on my rate my cables because of mismatched colorings to go with white extensions and white tubings(1/2x5/8") and hopefully all these barbs will match up







expect more pics soon ^_^


----------



## ahhell

Seriously, what kind of case would take a 480 rad?!?!?!
That thing is ginormous.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *ahhell*   Seriously, what kind of case would take a 480 rad?!?!?!
That thing is ginormous.  
The Case Labs TH10 case. Juggalo23451 got one from Jim and is working on it now.

  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIb_iHH1jqM  



 
 Here's a pic of the frame he posted on Facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...240204&theater


----------



## ahhell

Holy crap! It's a like a friggin' closet for your computer.


----------



## liquoredonlife

The Corsair 800D can be modded up top to use a 4x120 rad. Also that Silverstone used for the Murderbox.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Just tinkering with off-camera flash


----------



## mbudden

Will be updating tomorrow.
Hasn't been TOO much happening in here lately.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Will be updating tomorrow.
Hasn't been TOO much happening in here lately.










other than you changing your picture, AGAIN









Edit: Oh yeah, I just got/installed 4 AP-15's thanks to ezveedub


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


other than you changing your picture, AGAIN










i get bored easy. lol


----------



## GoodInk

What does her finger say?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


other than you changing your picture, AGAIN









Edit: Oh yeah, I just got/installed 4 AP-15's thanks to ezveedub


























Gotta pick mine up tomorrow. Gotta love UPS


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


What does her finger say?


----------



## GoodInk

Nice


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


What does her finger say?


I want to know what her arm says?

Oh, I started overclocking today! Yay for me.







I have it at 4.8 @ 1.36v and the temps seem pretty nice to me (30-33C for idle, and 54-59 on load). I'm going to leave Prime running tonight to see if it is stable. Then I may push it a bit further.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


I want to know what her arm says?












â€œJetzt und immer die Segen von der Vater und bleibst Unschuldig bis Er kommtâ€
â€œNow and always have the blessing of the father and remain blameless until the endâ€


----------



## CalypsoRaz

^ that's pretty rad.

I found the noisy culprit hiding in my case

this little a-hole:









more the reason to get the koolance block.


----------



## JedixJarf

Well got my replacement res/pump in, whisper quiet


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


^ that's pretty rad.


Yes it is, thanks for sharing mbudden.

I just just got my overclock to 5Ghz. And the temps look good. I really like this water-cooling setup.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


^ that's pretty rad.

I found the noisy culprit hiding in my case


Nice find. I had that happen to an old Abit mobo of mine. If u want to do a temp fix on it if its the fan, just take it off and put some sewing machine oil in the back where the bearing is. But looking at that housing looks like it might be a pain to get to.


----------



## logan666

Hey guys is the pump that cums with the rx kit good enouf 4 to gpu blocks and CPU block plus the rx 360 rad and a 120 ??


----------



## JedixJarf

Yes.

Sent from my DROIDX


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12912745*
> I want to know what her arm says?
> 
> Oh, I started overclocking today! Yay for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have it at 4.8 @ 1.36v and the temps seem pretty nice to me (30-33C for idle, and 54-59 on load). I'm going to leave Prime running tonight to see if it is stable. Then I may push it a bit further.


Well its easy for 26k to get the higher clocks with no problem..u can even 5.0 on that chip..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12912902*
> ^ that's pretty rad.
> 
> I found the noisy culprit hiding in my case
> 
> this little a-hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more the reason to get the koolance block.


I got koolance block too and you will get outstanding temp on that block..idle at 33 sb and 37 nb with it...load about 42 nb 38 sb..on a 70-75 ambient..and its quiet hehehe


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12912840*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Jetzt und immer die Segen von der Vater und bleibst Unschuldig bis Er kommt"
> "Now and always have the blessing of the father and remain blameless until the end"


Mbudden ur arms are cute


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12912902*
> ^ that's pretty rad.
> 
> I found the noisy culprit hiding in my case
> 
> this little a-hole:
> more the reason to get the koolance block.


It is. She has more. Epic ones. Look in my spoiler below.

& is that a NB cooler?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;12912912*
> Well got my replacement res/pump in, whisper quiet


Glad to hear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12913203*
> Yes it is, thanks for sharing mbudden.
> 
> I just just got my overclock to 5Ghz. And the temps look good. I really like this water-cooling setup.


As I said up above, she has more epic tattoos. Look in my spoiler below. But nice nice








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12915273*
> Mbudden ur arms are cute













Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jobotoo

For those using GT AP-15s with there kits, what type of temperature difference are you seeing?

I'm using the fans that came with the kit for now. They are not too loud, but I would love less noise. Temps are pretty good, but if I can get -5C or more also, I'd be very happy.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12916384*
> For those using GT AP-15s with there kits, what type of temperature difference are you seeing?
> 
> I'm using the fans that came with the kit for now. They are not too loud, but I would love less noise. Temps are pretty good, but if I can get -5C or more also, I'd be very happy.


maybe ~1-2°c I got them for silence.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12918436*
> maybe ~1-2°c I got them for silence.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Thanks!


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12915590*
> It is. She has more. Epic ones. Look in my spoiler below.
> 
> & is that a NB cooler?


Sure is. Noisiest little turd.. I stopped it with a screwdriver and my case was near silent (gpu being the exception)

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ahhell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


As I said up above, she has more epic tattoos. Look in my spoiler below. But nice nice




















Ver' nice!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

xspc products really own lol my setup is handling my [email protected]/1250 and my [email protected]/1300 along with my i7. Lol im suprised my psu haset called the police on me for all the abuse im giving it.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

SO, about to start hooking up my kit finally...had it a month and its taken this long. BUT, is AS5 better then the TIM that comes with the kit?


----------



## mbudden

Yes.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Yes.


thanks. going to go mount the block on my mb, then insert mb and see how im going to mount everything and run tubing.....thats the hardest part for me as i have NO IDEA from wehre to where tubing goes lol...IE inlet/outlet...


----------



## mbudden

Wait, what?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Wait, what?











no no, i mean routing the tubing from inlet to outlet, best place and where to mount everything. i do however have another question....how tight should the bards be tightened to? just finger snug or ?


----------



## Kahbrohn

I finger tighten it as much as possible and then do maybe 1/4 turn with a wrench. if the 1/4 turn was easy, I "may" go another 1/4 turn but slowly. I stop if I see I need more force than what I started the turn with to complete.


----------



## Kahbrohn

General question to help me "locate" myself in terms of my temps. I still consider myself new to all of this.

Is this temp satisfactory or not?

10 hr 20 min. blended Prime95, error free, at a steady 51*C with 28*C ambient. That's a delta of 23*C, correct?

Temp was monitored the whole time by: Probe, Aida64 and CoreTemp. Aida64 & Core temp showed the same high temp of 51*C when I came home. Probe was showing 51*C as well.


----------



## mbudden

Guys, you should look at Lutro0's sleeving job on the pump wires









Link to his build is here. 
http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...-beta-evo.html

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Looks like I forgot some pictures >.<

I will post these for the XSPC Rasa Kit Club.

How to sleeve the pump/res combo.









Basically I used an exacto knife and sliced a circle around...









Here, and then slit it down a little way and then pulled the tubing off, I left the tubing at the top because thatâ€™s what keeps the watertight seal.









Then I put two lengths of sleeve on the wires and covered it all up with a larger size of heatshrink, currently in this pic it is not shrunk.









I taped the wires because I had to put prong fittings on the end of them, otherwise you could just sleeve them like any other connector and put it back into the connector head. (with the original pins of course, they did have another layer of heatshrink that you will have to exacto knife off to make a clean shrink at the end.









This is your end result, a clean and easy mod.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


no no, i mean routing the tubing from inlet to outlet, best place and where to mount everything. i do however have another question....how tight should the bards be tightened to? just finger snug or ?


I'd say snug, but not too tight. The o-rings need to do their job. If you tighten it too much, they won't.

Whenever you get everything set up. Run the set up with nothing connected and check for leaks. Unless you're as ballsy as me, then don't worry about it







lol


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


General question to help me "locate" myself in terms of my temps. I still consider myself new to all of this.

Is this temp satisfactory or not?

10 hr 20 min. blended Prime95, error free, at a steady 51*C with 28*C ambient. That's a delta of 23*C, correct?

Temp was monitored the whole time by: Probe, Aida64 and CoreTemp. Aida64 & Core temp showed the same high temp of 51*C when I came home. Probe was showing 51*C as well.


Sounds good to me. 
Depends on the OC though & what's running in your loop.
But that looks really good.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Sounds good to me. 
Depends on the OC though & what's running in your loop.
But that looks really good.


Ohhh... wait. That's true.

OC'ed to 4.013 Ghz @ 1.34 Volts - Only running the CPU.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

got my block installed....going really slow so i dont screw anything up..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


got my block installed....going really slow so i dont screw anything up..


Nice. Take pix as you go along! Once you do it once, it becomes almost second nature. The next time you work on it you will see how easy everything goes.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

post more later.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Ohhh... wait. That's true.

OC'ed to 4.013 Ghz @ 1.34 Volts - Only running the CPU.


Just an FYI my 4222MHz shown in sig rig runs a load temp (prime95 for 24 hrs) at a max spike of 54c and average of 51-53c with room ambient at 22.3c for a comparison. Vcore at 1.482.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


Just an FYI my 4222MHz shown in sig rig runs a load temp (prime95 for 24 hrs) at a max spike of 54c and average of 51-53c with room ambient at 22.3c for a comparison. Vcore at 1.482.


Thanks... this would have been my next question believe it or not. This gives me a comparative OC to shoot for. I will probably wait for late June/early July since thats when it will be hottest here.

Do you see or feel it goes any higher in temp if left to run 24 hours like that? Most I ever have done is 16 hours.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12922570*
> Ohhh... wait. That's true.
> 
> OC'ed to 4.013 Ghz @ 1.34 Volts - Only running the CPU.


well sound good to me ...my 4.0 last time top at 48c..so ur close and u got higher ambient too...


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12922903*
> Thanks... this would have been my next question believe it or not. This gives me a comparative OC to shoot for. I will probably wait for late June/early July since thats when it will be hottest here.
> 
> Do you see or feel it goes any higher in temp if left to run 24 hours like that? Most I ever have done is 16 hours.


I noticed that prime95 reaches a fairly high max temp at the one hour mark which holds as a high point till you get into the 20 hour mark and then really puts a big load on and will increase temps maybe by a degree or two. So between 16 hrs and 24 hrs, you might see 1 or 2 degree increase is all.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;12925265*
> I noticed that prime95 reaches a fairly high max temp at the one hour mark which holds as a high point till you get into the 20 hour mark and then really puts a big load on and will increase temps maybe by a degree or two. So between 16 hrs and 24 hrs, you might see 1 or 2 degree increase is all.


Oki dokey... I pretty much see the same result of reaching a high mark within an hour and maintaining it for the amount of time I have personally run the rig. I guess I will need to try a 24 hour test sometime soon then all though an additional degree or two is not of much concern with present conditions. I need to see how it will be when I have higher ambients then. I am getting a feeling I may need to have two OC setups - one for fall/winter/spring and one for summer basically. Summers here will average some 30-31*C on average peaking at around 32-33*C.

Tropics... you gotta love it!


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12927991*
> Oki dokey... I pretty much see the same result of reaching a high mark within an hour and maintaining it for the amount of time I have personally run the rig. I guess I will need to try a 24 hour test sometime soon then all though an additional degree or two is not of much concern with present conditions. I need to see how it will be when I have higher ambients then. I am getting a feeling I may need to have two OC setups - one for fall/winter/spring and one for summer basically. Summers here will average some 30-31*C on average peaking at around 32-33*C.
> 
> Tropics... you gotta love it!


Lucky! Where I live the max is about 40c and sometimes it gets to around 33c in my room


----------



## ahhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;12929165*
> Lucky! Where I live the max is about 40c and sometimes it gets to around 33c in my room


!!! You might want to spend a couple hundred on an air con for your room.


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;12929227*
> !!! You might want to spend a couple hundred on an air con for your room.


I really should or just fix the air duct for our central air because the air conditioning never reaches the vent in my room







The rest of the house could be 26c while my room is 33. Very annoying!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


I really should or just fix the air duct for our central air because the air conditioning never reaches the vent in my room







The rest of the house could be 26c while my room is 33. Very annoying!


I got the same problem..my sister is complaining that the house is ice cold but my room is still toasty..wahahaha..when she went in my room to check the temp of my room i told her "welcome to hell" wahahaha..

She is amazed that my temp in my room is about 72-76f and the other rooms are in 65-70 lolz


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


Lucky! Where I live the max is about 40c and sometimes it gets to around 33c in my room










Oh, we do have hotter days but those are sporadic as it is. That's why I went with the "average peak" temps. But certainly we do not see the prolonged high temps you probably do.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


I got the same problem..my sister is complaining that the house is ice cold but my room is still toasty..wahahaha..when she went in my room to check the temp of my room i told her "welcome to hell" wahahaha..

She is amazed that my temp in my room is about 72-76f and the other rooms are in 65-70 lolz


Same here. Wife walked in and was like "Why's it so warm in here?"
She likes it cold for sleeping so I use the computer to offset the AC in the room. If I need to, I can fire up my 775 P4 to add additional heating, LOL!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Same here. Wife walked in and was like "Why's it so warm in here?"
She likes it cold for sleeping so I use the computer to offset the AC in the room. If I need to, I can fire up my 775 P4 to add additional heating, LOL!


Actually this last few months its cold so what i do is change my profile clocks from 4.0 to 4.3 and that will change my heat on my room to actually help my room on nice temps..

Rig/heater..wahahaha..but not too helpfull on summer time..its like freakin oven in my room..


----------



## Havoknova

I see a little bit of change on my temps for 2 months running my water cooling..went up about 2-3c..anybody else here got the same stuff thats happening to them???


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


I see a little bit of change on my temps for 2 months running my water cooling..went up about 2-3c..anybody else here got the same stuff thats happening to them???


Only my idle temps have gone up


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


Only my idle temps have gone up










Blow the dust out of your rads?


----------



## black!ce

will the 240 fit in the corsair 650D?


----------



## ht_addict

what temperature differences could i notice going from an H70 to 750 RSX240


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


what temperature differences could i notice going from an H70 to 750 RSX240


Well I dropped 10c @4.0 with my i7 875K. H50= 65c RX360= 55c full load


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *black!ce*


will the 240 fit in the corsair 650D?


Does the 650D have 2x120mm holes at the top? If so, yes.


----------



## wetfit9

Hi,
Just placed my order with Frozen-CPU.

XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit- HOT!
Select Distilled H20 Additives.: FREE IandH KillCoils - Antimicrobial Silver
PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16"ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - UV Green Primochill 3/8" ID Tubing Plug 
3mm Green LED to change the case led
PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils - 5/8" OD Tubing - Silver 1 
Tailed Dual 5mm LED w/ 4-Pin Pass-Thru Connector - Green

I wanted to make a "T" section just before the return to the Res to make it easy for me to drain it every six months or so. I am still looking for a "T".

If anyone have any suggestion or ideas to help this install go smoother I am open. 
How are the fans that come with the kit. Right now I just plan on having the front and side case fans as intake, the rear fan blowing air out the case and the RAD mounted up top with the fans on top pulling air out the case. Later thinking about adding more fans for a push pull, but I hear it only a couple Cel cooler so I may stay at 3 fans for the noise factor. 
Again any help or suggestions?

Just found this area, so just starting to read it from the front, but wanted to post to head start on ideas.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12930974*
> Same here. Wife walked in and was like "Why's it so warm in here?"
> She likes it cold for sleeping so I use the computer to offset the AC in the room. If I need to, I can fire up my 775 P4 to add additional heating, LOL!


Now we REALLY know where global warming is coming from! It's from all the OCN members!!!

Our own diabolical plan for total world domination... Muahahahahahahahaha!


----------



## Blue Destroyer

ok, noob question as now i am confused....i thought i new how to route the tubes but i guess i was wrong from looking at youtube videos.

Here is what i thought

Top Outlet of res(tall one) to inlet of cpu block, outlet of cpu block to rad(does it matter which one it goes in/out?) then out from rad to inlet of ras...is that correct..

and lastly, i konw its frowned upon but is using scissors really that bad to cut the tubing??

Got everything kinda set up except the tubing and now am completly confused.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12933616*
> Hi,
> I wanted to make a "T" section just before the return to the Res to make it easy for me to drain it every six months or so. I am still looking for a "T".
> 
> If anyone have any suggestion or ideas to help this install go smoother I am open.


When making a T-fitting inbetween hose, you have a few options:

T-Junction Adapter link
3 x 1/2" Barbs
Drain port with stop plug link

Or one of those plastic ones link, with the aforementioned drain port/stop plug.

Since I'm cooling my GPU, I chose to use one of the unused lines as a drain point. See here


----------



## bennieboi6969

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12934314*
> ok, noob question as now i am confused....i thought i new how to route the tubes but i guess i was wrong from looking at youtube videos.
> 
> Here is what i thought
> 
> Top Outlet of res(tall one) to inlet of cpu block, outlet of cpu block to rad(does it matter which one it goes in/out?) then out from rad to inlet of ras...is that correct..
> 
> and lastly, i konw its frowned upon but is using scissors really that bad to cut the tubing??
> 
> Got everything kinda set up except the tubing and now am completly confused.


best idea is to go from res to rad then cpu. also the cpu in and out are important as it is designed in a specific way to work properly


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;12934358*
> best idea is to go from res to rad then cpu. also the cpu in and out are important as it is designed in a specific way to work properly


see i thought i saw in here its best to go from the res to the block, then block to rad and then i saw you tube videos that completely screwed me up lol.


----------



## bennieboi6969

well if u go res to rad then it cools down the coolant and then goes to the cpu. i used to have my old thermaltake stuff the otherway and then swapped it around and my temps dropped by 15 degrees


----------



## Kahbrohn

I may be wrong or the difference is so little that maybe it doesn't make a difference but I go from the rad to the block. In my mind, this would be the coolest water available and that's what I want running through that block. I believe the difference is maybe .5*C so it may not be a big deal BUT I find that it helps to making the shortest loop (in terms of tubing) you can.

@ bennieboi6969 - That's a big drop!!!


----------



## bennieboi6969

that was a big drop lol from then on all the wc i did to other peoples comps and mine was res to rad then cpu block back to res but now ive got my gpu in the loop as well lol


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12934199*
> Now we REALLY know where global warming is coming from! It's from all the OCN members!!!
> 
> Our own diabolical plan for total world domination... Muahahahahahahahaha!


U got that right...this summer ill try to hit 100f no ac..and get me a egg and cook it on top of my rig lolz..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12934584*
> U got that right...this summer ill try to hit 100f no ac..and get me a egg and cook it on top of my rig lolz..


Screen shot or it never happened!!!


----------



## Havoknova

Go res > rad so u get the coldest water goin out of tge rad to ur cpu...

And for the T fitting question..i went to tge lowest part of the cooling setup so if u drain it water goes out with ease...

"heat rises"
"water goes down"

Thats my opinion


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12934330*
> When making a T-fitting inbetween hose, you have a few options:
> 
> T-Junction Adapter link
> 3 x 1/2" Barbs
> Drain port with stop plug link
> 
> Or one of those plastic ones link, with the aforementioned drain port/stop plug.
> 
> Since I'm cooling my GPU, I chose to use one of the unused lines as a drain point. See here


Instead of the Enzotech 3 way block (it's heavy like lead, trust me) or the plastic T, get the Bitspower 3 port T block with fittings.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_618&products_id=22951


----------



## ezveedub

IMO, I run loop from rad > reservoir/pump > CPU block > rad. Most do not consider the pump as a component and they dump the hottest coolant onto it from their CPU or GPUs. You have to remember that the X20 750 pump can run hot too. Same for a DDC or D5. I prefer my pump to get cool coolant also as part of the system.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12934625*
> Screen shot or it never happened!!!


Wahahaha..with a lottle bit of bacon in the side


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12934775*
> IMO, I run loop from rad > reservoir/pump > CPU block > rad. Most do not consider the pump as a component and they dump the hottest coolant onto it from their CPU or GPUs. You have to remember that the X20 750 pump can run hot too. Same for a DDC or D5. I prefer my pump to get cool coolant also as part of the system.


Thats y i got 2 rads and soon to be 3 rads..so i got a rad just to cool my pump..lolz OVA KILLA..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12935076*
> Wahahaha..with a lottle bit of bacon in the side


Better not forget the hash browns and call us all over for breakfast!


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12934775*
> IMO, I run loop from rad > reservoir/pump > CPU block > rad. Most do not consider the pump as a component and they dump the hottest coolant onto it from their CPU or GPUs. You have to remember that the X20 750 pump can run hot too. Same for a DDC or D5. I prefer my pump to get cool coolant also as part of the system.


Nonsense. If your res is filled and properly submerging your pump, any and all heat coming out of it is easily handled by the water contained within the res.

My actual water temp pre/post blocks is usually no more than 4-9C above ambient, depending on load. The biggest water delta I get between blocks is 2C at load, and that's water temp before CPU, then heated by CPU, heated by GPU, and then measured again. This is measured with Bitspower temp fittings, connected to my Scythe Kaze Master KM02 on Koolance 4-way junctions. Typically, I see water temp of 24C going in, 25C coming out (ambient 20C). When I'm gaming and keeping the fans on low (1000), it hovers around 28-29C. If I crank the fans to 1700RPM, temps fall back down to 25-26C.

If you're just cooling your CPU, the sheer volume of water in the system has tremendous heat carrying capacity and will eventually be dissipated via the radiator. For a CPU-block only setup, order does not matter.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12935825*
> Nonsense. If your res is filled and properly submerging your pump, any and all heat coming out of it is easily handled by the water contained within the res.
> 
> My actual water temp pre/post blocks is usually no more than 4-9C above ambient, depending on load. The biggest water delta I get between blocks is 2C at load, and that's water temp before CPU, then heated by CPU, heated by GPU, and then measured again. This is measured with Bitspower temp fittings, connected to my Scythe Kaze Master KM02 on Koolance 4-way junctions. Typically, I see water temp of 24C going in, 25C coming out (ambient 20C). When I'm gaming and keeping the fans on low (1000), it hovers around 28-29C. If I crank the fans to 1700RPM, temps fall back down to 25-26C.
> 
> If you're just cooling your CPU, the sheer volume of water in the system has tremendous heat carrying capacity and will eventually be dissipated via the radiator. For a CPU-block only setup, order does not matter.


So you say there is absolutely no difference then either way the loop is ran? No difference in temperatures?


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12938728*
> So you say there is absolutely no difference then either way the loop is ran? No difference in temperatures?


IIRC a water molecule makes 10 "laps" through the loop every second, cooling and heating as it hits the rad and the block, so it shouldn't make any difference (unless the loop is like REALLY long).


----------



## mbudden

There is a reason why you don't want to have excess tubing. You want to have your loop as short as possible.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Ok. Just to double check. Tubing from outlet if res to rad, then rad to inlet if block then outlet of block to inlet of res....right?


----------



## mbudden

What?

Res/Pump Out > CPU In > CPU Out > Rad In > Rad Out > Res/Pump In

That will do.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12939412*
> There is a reason why you don't want to have excess tubing. You want to have your loop as short as possible.


Thats really doesn't make the difference. Long tubing will will have more coolant, it's just harder on the pump and may slow the flowrate. You could make the loop a mile long, if there is sufficient flowrate, you actually will gain cooling reserve.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;12939401*
> IIRC a water molecule makes 10 "laps" through the loop every second, cooling and heating as it hits the rad and the block, so it shouldn't make any difference (unless the loop is like REALLY long).


What pump are you running for laps per second?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12939460*
> What?
> 
> Res/Pump Out > CPU In > CPU Out > Rad In > Rad Out > Res/Pump In
> 
> That will do.


Is there acualy an in/out on the rad?

Lol everyone earlier said res/rad/cpu/res


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12939538*
> Is there acualy an in/out on the rad?


No, you can use either port


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12939549*
> No, you can use either port


This.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

I want to thank everyone for being cool with me and all my noobish questions. You peeps are awesome!


----------



## mbudden

That's what this thread is for.


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12939493*
> What pump are you running for laps per second?


I think the post was talking about the MCP655, I also wanted to know but someone stated that the water moves so fast it doesn't really matter in what order the loop is made.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;12939761*
> I think the post was talking about the MCP655, I also wanted to know but someone stated that the water moves so fast it doesn't really matter in what order the loop is made.


The max flowrate depends on the pumps rate first off. Add the size of the tubing, amount of water, restrictions in the system and the rate will fall. The exact rate would have to measured with a meter inline. I think a gallon/min is the minimum you want. Any less, and the temps will increase on the blocks. The MCP655 (D5) flows more than the MCP350 (DDC), but it's flowrate drops more with the same restriction compared to the MCP350 (DDC). It all mainly numbers at this point, LOL! Almost all the pumps work just fine. The aquarium pump have been cooling these systems now for years. Eheim being one the them. I think I still have one those too.


----------



## alchemik

Just wondering all the kits are the same except for the rad size right? So for the 240 or 360 its just the rad that's different and the pump and everything else is the same correct?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alchemik*


Just wondering all the kits are the same except for the rad size right? So for the 240 or 360 its just the rad that's different and the pump and everything else is the same correct?


Yes, the 240 and 360 use the same pump.


----------



## avattz

Yea I understand that, before I received the kit I was looking up a bunch of threads and how-tos on looping and water maintenance, many were arguing on loop order (pump > rad > block vs pump > block > rad), I read something about water molecules moving so fast and water balancing out the heat after a few minutes that it didn't matter with the order (to me that made the most sense).


----------



## pwnography6

Does 7/16" primoflex tube fit on this kit

also what about these fittings http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...oducts_id=3165

and this antiknk for the primoflex hose http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...oducts_id=2131 Does it all fit?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avattz*


Yea I understand that, before I received the kit I was looking up a bunch of threads and how-tos on looping and water maintenance, many were arguing on loop order (pump > rad > block vs pump > block > rad), I read something about water molecules moving so fast and water balancing out the heat after a few minutes that it didn't matter with the order (to me that made the most sense).


For me, I prefer res/pump > CPU > rad. Since the pump also creates heat, I prefer to hit it with cool coolant as well. If the pump is cooler than the incoming coolant from the CPU block, it will absorb the heat, it will not be cooled.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;12940244*
> Does 7/16" primoflex tube fit on this kit
> 
> also what about these fittings http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_91_220_223&products_id=3165
> 
> and this antiknk for the primoflex hose http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_3_270_273&products_id=2131 Does it all fit?


No. With compression fittings you have to use the tubing its sized for. Same goes the the Anti-Kink coil. You need to match the coil to the same tubing OD size. That one listed is for 5/8 tubing. If you want to use those compression fittings, you need 1/2 ID-3/4 OD tubing with 3/4" anti-kink coil.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Tubing cut and installed...got it hooked up and leak testing....really proud of myself!!! Thanks to everyone...dam this pump is silent!!!


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12940353*
> For me, I prefer res/pump > CPU > rad. Since the pump also creates heat, I prefer to hit it with cool coolant as well. If the pump is cooler than the incoming coolant from the CPU block, it will absorb the heat, it will not be cooled.


Same here but with GPU (Pump > CPU > GPU > Rad), but the reason I put CPU first is so it gets the highest pressure first. CPU and GPU loaded (GPU at stock voltage) I can't get past 41° C (40° C for the first 4 hours) on the CPU, and 35° C on the GPU.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12932309*
> Blow the dust out of your rads?


No dust, I'm a clean freak with my PC.

As for loop order, it does not matter with this kit. The only time loop order matters is res before pump. I've tried both ways, and saw no difference. The water is moving too fast for it to gain enough heat or to cool off enough to make any measurable difference. This is the reason it takes so long for a loop to hit its max temps, mine takes about 20mins before it levels off.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;12940511*
> Same here but with GPU (Pump > CPU > GPU > Rad), but the reason I put CPU first is so it gets the highest pressure first. CPU and GPU loaded (GPU at stock voltage) I can't get past 41° C (40° C for the first 4 hours) on the CPU, and 35° C on the GPU.


I have the same, but more. CPU and two GPUs. I have my 6870s in Crossfire on an EK Parallel link, not serial, so the CPU coolant output is split to the 2 GPUs. This also helps to keep restrictions low, since the coolant can flow easily through the 2 GPUs at the same time, not stacked inline. Highest temps seen under stress testing GPUs and CPU was 71C, but I never see that when gaming what so ever.


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12940985*
> I have the same, but more. CPU and two GPUs. I have my 6870s in Crossfire on an EK Parallel link, not serial, so the CPU coolant output is split to the 2 GPUs. This also helps to keep restrictions low, since the coolant can flow easily through the 2 GPUs at the same time, not stacked inline. Highest temps seen under stress testing GPUs and CPU was 71C, but I never see that when gaming what so ever.


Are they sharing the same rad?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12940831*
> No dust, I'm a clean freak with my PC.
> 
> As for loop order, it does not matter with this kit. The only time loop order matters is res before pump. I've tried both ways, and saw no difference. The water is moving too fast for it to gain enough heat or to cool off enough to make any measurable difference. This is the reason it takes so long for a loop to hit its max temps, mine takes about 20mins before it levels off.


Mine did 57C with GPUs stressed three hours, then 71C on the CPU an hour later under stress. Coolant was too warm to cool down. I'm going to 2 RX360s soon so this should be a lot better. Waiting for the EK 6990 water block to add soon.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;12941032*
> Are they sharing the same rad?


Yep, all three overclocked also.


----------



## pwnography6

But the 7/16" primoflex tube will fit the kit? and the outer diameter of that tubing is 5/8"


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12941044*
> Yep, all three overclocked also.


Makes sense, 71° C is scarily high, I could only manage 42° C when I overclocked to 4.2GHz vcore @ 1.55 when the loop didn't have a GPU block. I'm keeping it at 1.3 vcore ATM because my 790FX mobo VRMs failed, and the 890FXA have the same problem.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;12941071*
> But the 7/16" primoflex tube will fit the kit? and the outer diameter of that tubing is 5/8"


Correct, the 7/16" ID Primoflex hose will fit over the stock 1/2" barbs in the kit. It's snug enough, you don't need clamps.


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;12941071*
> But the 7/16" primoflex tube will fit the kit? and the outer diameter of that tubing is 5/8"


You can use 7/16" on barb fittings only, don't think they will work on compression fittings. 7/16" tubing + 1/2" barbs = no clamps needed.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;12941184*
> Makes sense, 71° C is scarily high, I could only manage 42° C when I overclocked to 4.2GHz vcore @ 1.55 when the loop didn't have a GPU block. I'm keeping it at 1.3 vcore ATM because my 790FX mobo VRMs failed, and the 890FXA have the same problem.


That was a peak temp trigger after 55 minutes of LinX full load with all memory used. It never sees that under my gaming use. Mainly 54-57C only. Same on the video cards.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;12941217*
> You can use 7/16" on barb fittings only, don't think they will work on compression fittings. 7/16" tubing + 1/2" barbs = no clamps needed.


Unless you use 7/16" compression fittings for 5/8" OD tubing. I just got 11 EK nickel compression fittings this week for my new build. They fit very snug.


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12941249*
> Unless you use 7/16" compression fittings for 5/8" OD tubing. I just got 11 EK nickel compression fittings this week for my new build


He linked to 1/2" compression fittings, the tubing needs to be a certain thickness so the compression fittings can clamp on it, right?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avattz*


He linked to 1/2" compression fittings, the tubing needs to be a certain thickness so the compression fittings can clamp on it, right?


Correct, those were 1/2" ID-3/4"OD compression fittings he linked. You have to make sure they match the tubing you use inside and out.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

So no leaks after almost 2 hours. Gonna let it run till tomorrow morning so that would make it about a 12-14 hour leak test. 2nd is the res suppose to be completely to the top full? Mine is about 1/4 of an inch from full.


----------



## pwnography6

Ok cool thanks for the heads up on the fittings now the primoflex tube is 7/16 id and 5/8 OD so that is the right antikink isnt it?

oh and these fittings
http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...f43515e45a08a0


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


*snip*

So no leaks after almost 2 hours. Gonna let it run till tomorrow morning so that would make it about a 12-14 hour leak test. 2nd is the res suppose to be completely to the top full? Mine is about 1/4 of an inch from full.


Other than the initial test of kit components, I didnt leak test mine at all. and my res is about 3/16 from the top. I wouldnt let it get much lower than 1/4 just to be sure its always circulating.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


Ok cool thanks for the heads up on the fittings now the primoflex tube is 7/16 id and 5/8 OD so that is the right antikink isnt it?

oh and these fittings
http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...f43515e45a08a0


Yes, those are the correct fittings for the 7/16" tubing


----------



## mbudden

Looks like there is no quick disconnects for the tubing size that comes with the kit.


----------



## bennieboi6969

just use half inch aka 13mm


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;12913203*
> Yes it is, thanks for sharing mbudden.
> 
> I just just got my overclock to 5Ghz. And the temps look good. I really like this water-cooling setup.


What kind of load temps are you seeing? I can't decide if it's worth it to upgrade.


----------



## rushino

Just ordered my RASA 750 RS360 for my Corsair 600T! ADD ME in the club please thanks.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Any benches between the Rasa 450 RS120 WaterCooling Kit and the H50 Push/Pull anywhere?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

got a question...after my setup was running for a couple hours i noticed something....my quiet pump that went from near silent for almost 3 hours ended up this morning rattling really, really loudly...louder then the 120mm yate loons...is there a chance i got a bad pump?


----------



## mbudden

Very interesting.
You made sure all the bubbles were out?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12946892*
> Very interesting.
> You made sure all the bubbles were out?


yes. it dosnt sound like bubbiling. i can make a video and post it if ya like. that way i can be told if im just over reacting or what


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12938728*
> So you say there is absolutely no difference then either way the loop is ran? No difference in temperatures?


There is no difference in a CPU-only loop for this particular kit once the system reaches equilibrium. While a lot less common these days, some people don't run a res, or use a fillport tube into the pump as a res 1, 2. Technically, a res is really just for bleeding air bubbles and storing coolant. And while increased coolant increases the heat capacity of the system, it doesn't contribute to the heat releasing capability. In this kit, it's also used for keeping the water pump primed since some beginners are likely to run their pump without coolant and cause premature wear on the pump.

If order genuinely mattered, wouldn't the reservoir also be a performance piece? Notice how none of us are jumping at the opportunity to upgrade the reservoir, as opposed to radiator, fans, thermal grease, blocks or pumps - which have a more direct correlation with heat removal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12939412*
> There is a reason why you don't want to have excess tubing. You want to have your loop as short as possible.


Sure, and it's not noticeably temperature related at all as we've been all up in arms about in the past few pages. It's for maintaining adequate flow rates. While Martin's post is specifically about fittings (one 90 degree fitting has the same restriction as 4' of 1/2" tube) , it talks about tubing as well as a correlation. In this kit, because you're using a 5 1/4" bay reservoir, you need some excess tubing to be able to slide it out enough for filling/draining, unless you're able to relocate the fillport using an M20 to G1/4" or use a T-fitting as the fillport.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12943487*
> Looks like there is no quick disconnects for the tubing size that comes with the kit.


I'm using a few of the 1/2" barbed VL3N from this page [http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/default.php?cPath=62_60_104] Koolance [/url]] with 7/16" tubing.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

http://s1142.photobucket.com/albums/n613/bluedestroyer/?action=view&current=2011-03-31_10-35-19_510.mp4

here is a video of it. The humming sound is my psu fan(cheapo 350w psu w 80mm fan), its the rattiling sound.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12946940*
> yes. it dosnt sound like bubbiling. i can make a video and post it if ya like. that way i can be told if im just over reacting or what


Bubbles in the system won't sound like bubbles in the conventional sense because the system is sealed and the sound properties are dampened by the tube/acrylic housing/metal radiator/etc. Small pockets of air can cause the pump to vibrate excessively. If the res is mounted, loosen it and try sliding it around in the bay to see if the tone changes. Make sure you've inverted your radiator (while the water is moving) or your entire case if it's mounted and you can't move it.

If you make a video, provide a frame of reference- Use your cellphone or something like it in the vid, make it play a ringtone next to the pump at the same distance as of your camera, so it's easier to compare how loud it is.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12947078*
> http://s1142.photobucket.com/albums/n613/bluedestroyer/?action=view&current=2011-03-31_10-35-19_510.mp4
> 
> here is a video of it. The humming sound is my psu fan(cheapo 350w psu w 80mm fan), its the rattiling sound.


If you have the tubing, try removing the pump from the case, but leave everything connected, jump the psu, if it is still making noise, shake it really hard. If it still is making noise, you can try draining it and refilling. Air can get trapped in the pump and it causes a cavitation like effect. If all that fails, contact XSPC with a video that you can tell how loud it really is, like posted above.


----------



## mbudden

You could try a drop of soap into your loop...


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Is there a direct email or phone number to xspc?


----------



## Twister773

nothing extra needed to use with 1155 socket correct?


----------



## mbudden

http://www.xs-pc.com/contactus/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twister773;12948083*
> nothing extra needed to use with 1155 socket correct?


Nope. 1156 bracket works with 1155.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12948018*
> Is there a direct email or phone number to xspc?


It's their support e-mail on their website. Dahzhong will answer you within 12-18 hours (depending on the time he receives your e-mail). SEND him the video, do not link it to Youtube for him since Chinese government blocks all access to Youtube.


----------



## Twister773

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12948097*
> http://www.xs-pc.com/contactus/
> 
> Nope. 1156 bracket works with 1155.


Thats what i thought, just making sure. Thankyou!


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Also is there anywhere I can buy the led light cable that came with the kit in different colors?


----------



## mbudden

http://search.store.yahoo.net/svcompucycle/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=svcompucycle&query=XSPC+LED


----------



## RonB94GT

Top of my case is only going to fit the RS series without serious mods. Going to do CPU only when I get my I5 2500K up and running. Possibly sometime down road GPU. Can fit a RS 240 with a 2 fans no problem. Heres my stupid question I could fit a RS360 with 2 fans just don't want to use up 2 drive bays. How would that perform would the extra watter capacity be god or be hurt by only 2 fans.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12948752*
> http://search.store.yahoo.net/svcompucycle/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=svcompucycle&query=XSPC+LED


thanks +rep!!! exactly what i was looking for!


----------



## wetfit9

I ordered my rs360 kit two days ago. I have been reading a lot of the pages here and it have been a good read. When my kit get in I have read you should flush all of the parts. I am assuming this should be done with distill water. Also back to the question of order in which the tubing should be ran. Also want to add a drain point to save time when it comes to cleaning the system. Wanted to know the best spot to put in a drain point. The plan is to put the 360 up top and just run a CPU loop for now. Then looking at a few chances to include both of my 580's. Any suggestions for now and the future. Heading to my local Microcenter store tonight to pick up some parts. For those that didn't my first post. I ordered primo green tubing to replace the stock tubing. Any thoughts and help.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


I ordered my rs360 kit two days ago. I have been reading a lot of the pages here and it have been a good read. When my kit get in I have read you should flush all of the parts. I am assuming this should be done with distill water. Also back to the question of order in which the tubing should be ran. Also want to add a drain point to save time when it comes to cleaning the system. Wanted to know the best spot to put in a drain point. The plan is to put the 360 up top and just run a CPU loop for now. Then looking at a few chances to include both of my 580's. Any suggestions for now and the future. Heading to my local Microcenter store tonight to pick up some parts. For those that didn't my first post. I ordered primo green tubing to replace the stock tubing. Any thoughts and help.


yes flush ur rad with hot water and a little bit of vinegar on it...make it about 3-4 flush to take out the stuff inside of it...thats pretty much it on ur flushing...even its new it still have stuff inside that u need to flush..

good choice on the tubing...green primo are nice i got that on my rig right now and they are kick ass...

dont forget ur kill coil..and about the setup it is up to u..on ur only cpu loop for now u can go

1: res/pump>rad>cpu>res/pump or

2: res?pump>cpu>rad>res/pump...

doesnt matter what u want to go but its pretty explanatory...

goin with ur fan better way off on a push pull confige so might as well go get another 3 fans then combine it with ur 3 fans came with the kit or get a whole set of 6 fans for ur push/ pull...

on fans u can get there famous ap15 or the ap14

or u can go with the alternative uber cheap fans but has the performace u want...named "yate loons" =)


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


yes flush ur rad with hot water and a little bit of vinegar on it...make it about 3-4 flush to take out the stuff inside of it...thats pretty much it on ur flushing...even its new it still have stuff inside that u need to flush..

good choice on the tubing...green primo are nice i got that on my rig right now and they are kick ass...

dont forget ur kill coil..and about the setup it is up to u..on ur only cpu loop for now u can go

1: res/pump>rad>cpu>res/pump or

2: res?pump>cpu>rad>res/pump...

doesnt matter what u want to go but its pretty explanatory...

goin with ur fan better way off on a push pull confige so might as well go get another 3 fans then combine it with ur 3 fans came with the kit or get a whole set of 6 fans for ur push/ pull...

on fans u can get there famous ap15 or the ap14

or u can go with the alternative uber cheap fans but has the performace u want...named "yate loons" =)


I have six noctua 120mm that I am thinking of using for the push/pull. If not those, I have three ENERMAX MAGMA UC-MA12 that I may use for now and then add three more. I like these better then the noctua.

Should I also flush the RES/PUMP also with hot water and vin. Also the question on a drain, any spot better then others. Thanks for the quick answers. Seem like I am missing a question here, so excuse me if I ask a lot. This is a big step for me as I said I would never do water.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


There is no difference in a CPU-only loop for this particular kit once the system reaches equilibrium. While a lot less common these days, some people don't run a res, or use a fillport tube into the pump as a res 1, 2. Technically, a res is really just for bleeding air bubbles and storing coolant. And while increased coolant increases the heat capacity of the system, it doesn't contribute to the heat releasing capability. In this kit, it's also used for keeping the water pump primed since some beginners are likely to run their pump without coolant and cause premature wear on the pump.

If order genuinely mattered, wouldn't the reservoir also be a performance piece? Notice how none of us are jumping at the opportunity to upgrade the reservoir, as opposed to radiator, fans, thermal grease, blocks or pumps - which have a more direct correlation with heat removal.

Sure, and it's not noticeably temperature related at all as we've been all up in arms about in the past few pages. It's for maintaining adequate flow rates. While Martin's post is specifically about fittings (one 90 degree fitting has the same restriction as 4' of 1/2" tube) , it talks about tubing as well as a correlation. In this kit, because you're using a 5 1/4" bay reservoir, you need some excess tubing to be able to slide it out enough for filling/draining, unless you're able to relocate the fillport using an M20 to G1/4" or use a T-fitting as the fillport.

I'm using a few of the 1/2" barbed VL3N from this page [ Koolance ] with 7/16" tubing.


Actually, no, my reservoir is not a performance piece. It has no moving parts, so I can't see how you're adding that to the system. It generates no heat and is not subject to failure from heat in the system. My point is, why would you subject a device, like your pump, that that runs at a certain temperature and if the coolant it receives is hotter, add more heat to it? Equilibrium for me is not relevant at all, as the system is never equal temperature every where. Yes, the overall temperature of the coolant will increase from room temperature with load on the devices to be cooled, but its not equal. If it was, the coolant would continue to increase in temperature up to the same point of the devices being cooled. On a CPU only loop, I could see maybe a 2-3C in-out difference, but on a CPU and 2 GPUs like mine, that difference is higher.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


I have six noctua 120mm that I am thinking of using for the push/pull. If not those, I have three ENERMAX MAGMA UC-MA12 that I may use for now and then add three more. I like these better then the noctua.

Should I also flush the RES/PUMP also with hot water and vin. Also the question on a drain, any spot better then others. Thanks for the quick answers. Seem like I am missing a question here, so excuse me if I ask a lot. This is a big step for me as I said I would never do water.


No the res pump dont need flushing..
Well on the drain side..i went and put mine on the lowest part of my loop..so no pain on draining it..but other peeps do it on the return tube goin to the res/pump..so it depends on how u route ur tubings or how u set ur loop up..thats why they call if custom loop









Btw dont forget to take some pix


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


No the res pump dont need flushing..
Well on the drain side..i went and put mine on the lowest part of my loop..so no pain on draining it..but other peeps do it on the return tube goin to the res/pump..so it depends on how u route ur tubings or how u set ur loop up..thats why they call if custom loop









Btw dont forget to take some pix











Makes sense


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Makes sense


Well the only thing about the water cooling is the setup...less tube u use the better the flow rate goes...but for now on ur cpu loop it will not be a pain at all specially if u plan ahead on ur loop...on ur case too it will be fast coz haf x got alot of room and its pretty easy to set it up...

Just have fun and enjoy the build..hhehehe..


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Well the only thing about the water cooling is the setup...less tube u use the better the flow rate goes...but for now on ur cpu loop it will not be a pain at all specially if u plan ahead on ur loop...on ur case too it will be fast coz haf x got alot of room and its pretty easy to set it up...

Just have fun and enjoy the build..hhehehe..


Thanks, I already have a picture in mind. The res/pump up front, the rad up top with the bar's to the rear, push/pull air going out the case. Right now I plan on res/pump to rad to cpu back to ras/pump. That way later all I have to do and go from cpu to gpu when I add it. It look like it will be one card at a time over the next 4 months, so no hurry on the GPU.

Still plan on front fan intake and the back fan pushing air out the case. Also with a 120mm fan in the fan dust blowing on the gpu's. I will test both ways as far as the side panel goes. I will test to see what the temps are with the normal side panel with the 200mm blowing air in and I also have a haf 932 window panel that I will test to see if the temp's are off. If they are only a few degree's warmer I will go with the window so I can see everything inside. I picked up the vinegar for the clean out the rad and tubing. Heading to wal greens to get the distill water here a few.

Went to my local Micro Center and was truely disappoint in what they had to offer as far as tubing and fitting. I will have to fine online the drain plug and splitter to put my drain plug in. I have to get it ordered tonight so I can have it by wedesday next week. Any links would be helpful. Also, I only ordered three feet of tubing I think I will need more then that. Thoughts









ordered more tubing off amazon,


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Wow xspc already emailed me back. Sent the video in the email too


----------



## wetfit9

could I use this as a drain at the end of a line instead of it's intended use. Enzotechnology 1/2" Fillcap - NPH-ID1/2-G14

Also which would be better to put the drain line in, a "Y" or a "T"


----------



## ht_addict

Soon to be a member of the club. Ordered a Rasa 750RX240. Any tips I should know. As for coolant, do I just use normal distilled water or can I use the automotive premixed stuff?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Soon to be a member of the club. Ordered a Rasa 750RX240. Any tips I should know. As for coolant, do I just use normal distilled water or can I use the automotive premixed stuff?


just use distilled water and a kill coil,NO COOLANThttp://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...oir_Strip.html:


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


could I use this as a drain at the end of a line instead of it's intended use. Enzotechnology 1/2" Fillcap - NPH-ID1/2-G14

Also which would be better to put the drain line in, a "Y" or a "T"


go with the "T" fitting...make sure all the ends are same size..for nice flow...

what do u mean "the end of the line"??


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


just use distilled water and a kill coil,NO COOLANThttp://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...oir_Strip.html:










Thanks. Got one coming with the kit. How often does it get changed. Another question: On mounting the rad, is there much of a difference temp wise putting it inside to outside?


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


go with the "T" fitting...make sure all the ends are same size..for nice flow...

what do u mean "the end of the line"??


Off the "T" I was going to put a drain line. So need a plug that I can open to drain and close when I re fill


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Thanks. Got one coming with the kit. How often does it get changed. Another question: On mounting the rad, is there much of a difference temp wise putting it inside to outside?


I put mine together in December and my water is still very clear.Mount the rad outside the case might gain you a few 0c.But I have all my rads inside my case.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Off the "T" I was going to put a drain line. So need a plug that I can open to drain and close when I re fill


I've got one of these at the end of my t'd tube and one at the top of my case going into my res. pretty handy honestly

Click Picture


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12953645*
> I've got one of these at the end of my t'd tube and one at the top of my case going into my res. pretty handy honestly
> 
> Click Picture


Ok I can use that one for the end. Two questions. Will it fill the tubing or do I need a different size. Also how did you connect it to the fill port cause that would be nice so I would not need the extra tubing to pull the res out to fill.


----------



## GoodInk

deleted


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Just a question...purely hypothetical, say, some moron forgot to put a drain line in....how hard is it going to be to drain....


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12953760*
> Just a question...purely hypothetical, say, some moron forgot to put a drain line in....how hard is it going to be to drain....


I just unmount the cpu block and pull a hose with the case on its side.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12953774*
> I just unmount the cpu block and pull a hose with the case on its side.


Ok thanks...not that I...I mean...no..ofcourse I installed a drain line:heyyou:


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12953701*
> Ok I can use that one for the end. Two questions. Will it fill the tubing or do I need a different size. Also how did you connect it to the fill port cause that would be nice so I would not need the extra tubing to pull the res out to fill.


You can choose the fitting size, it uses the same thread as your barbs so it'll work with whatever size tubing you have. It comes standard with the 1/2 barb which is perfect for the kit tubing.

You will need a couple more things to connect it properly to the res.



and then whatever size fitting you require. I just secured the DD Fill port in the top of my case, cut the appropriate length tubing and viola, no more pulling your res half out of your case to fill it









Not the best pictures but it should give you an idea

















As far as being sealed, I've had this computer on its side while full so its sealed tight. Oh, and all fittings are finger tight lol


----------



## wetfit9

So I will need two of the fill port and one of the last item you just showed. All will fit the tubing that I ordered. I can modify my haf x to mount the fill port on top.

QUOTE=CalypsoRaz;12954435]You can choose the fitting size, it uses the same thread as your barbs so it'll work with whatever size tubing you have. It comes standard with the 1/2 barb which is perfect for the kit tubing.

You will need a couple more things to connect it properly to the res.



and then whatever size fitting you require. I just secured the DD Fill port in the top of my case, cut the appropriate length tubing and viola, no more pulling your res half out of your case to fill it









Not the best pictures but it should give you an idea















[/QUOTE]


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12954490*
> So I will need two of the fill port and one of the last item you just showed. All will fit the tubing that I ordered. I can modify my haf x to mount the fill port on top.


Sure enough, just be sure to get an extra fitting for the res port adapter. lol and be sure to tighten the allen screws in the fill ports before adding water to your loop.

I neglected to check them and my t line starting draining in my case lol.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12954556*
> Sure enough, just be sure to get an extra fitting for the res port adapter. lol and be sure to tighten the allen screws in the fill ports before adding water to your loop.
> 
> I neglected to check them and my t line starting draining in my case lol.


So two of each and tighten the Allen lines. Allen lines? Going to place my order tonight once I understand completely. Let me know if there is anything else I need.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

The fill port has an allen screw to seal it..









I'm not sure exactly what all you're getting but as to the fill/drain part you would need Danger Den Fill Port (x2), XSPC fill cap adapter (x1), a T if you dont already have one and a barb. Of course, appropriate length tubing. if you're using a plastic T with 7/16 ID tubing, you're going to have fun getting it on. Took me like 10 minutes per line haha.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12954726*
> The fill port has an allen screw to seal it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure exactly what all you're getting but as to the fill/drain part you would need Danger Den Fill Port (x2), XSPC fill cap adapter (x1), a T if you dont already have one and a barb. Of course, appropriate length tubing. if you're using a plastic T with 7/16 ID tubing, you're going to have fun getting it on. Took me like 10 minutes per line haha.


So got it. 2 of the fill port. 1 of the res fitting. And a "T" Take my time and have fun and take pictures.

Off not how do you post pictures into your reply


----------



## CalypsoRaz

In the quick reply box, you will see this icon







if you click it, it will bring up a dialog where you can enter the URL of the desired picture.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Holy crap...email tech support and he has been responding to email every 10 mins or so. They are sending a new pump...best tech support ever..


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12955060*
> In the quick reply box, you will see this icon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you click it, it will bring up a dialog where you can enter the URL of the desired picture.










two each

http://www.jab-tech.com/images/D/d_4409.jpg one of each.

plug "t" clamps if i need them


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12955060*
> In the quick reply box, you will see this icon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you click it, it will bring up a dialog where you can enter the URL of the desired picture.










two each

http://www.jab-tech.com/images/D/d_4409.jpg one of each.

plug "t" clamps if i need them


----------



## wetfit9

and one of these. plug a "T"

Sorry about the double post,


----------



## wetfit9

Sorry about the double post. Am I correct, I am afraid of ordering the wrong items and then have to wait on the correct one to come in. I have a couple days off next week and want to get it done while I have some peace from the kids while they are at school


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Jab-tech has the fill ports so you dont have to order from two different places. I think they're the only ones who have the res adapter though.

I'm not sure what you mean about the T plug


----------



## Dissentience

Got it all mounted up in my HAF 922


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12955275*
> Jab-tech has the fill ports so you dont have to order from two different places. I think they're the only ones who have the res adapter though.
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean about the T plug


I am now looking for the barb for the res adapter. don't know which size to get


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12955480*
> I am now looking for the barb for the res adapter. don't know which size to get


just get a normal barb. liiike this


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12955538*
> just get a normal barb. liiike this


I found this one so i can order off the same site, one shipment,

https://www.jab-tech.com/Dangerden-FB-Fat-Boy-G-1-4-Fittings-1-2-Barb-pr-4181.html


----------



## CalypsoRaz

yessir. my bad, I linked the wrong site.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12955575*
> yessir. my bad, I linked the wrong site.


Thanks, placed my order. I just hope it is here by tuesday.


----------



## Twister773

My rasa kit will be here tomorrow


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12955097*
> Holy crap...email tech support and he has been responding to email every 10 mins or so. They are sending a new pump...best tech support ever..


Glad to hear everything has been taken care of.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12955180*
> Sorry about the double post. Am I correct, I am afraid of ordering the wrong items and then have to wait on the correct one to come in. I have a couple days off next week and want to get it done while I have some peace from the kids while they are at school


Btw word of advice while pouring hot water with vinegar on ur rad to clean it up..use a FUNNEL and dont over fill it coz if the hot water touch the black coat of the rad it will peel off..so dont over fill..put fair amount and close it and shake it..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twister773;12956264*
> My rasa kit will be here tomorrow


Post some pix


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;12955369*
> Got it all mounted up in my HAF 922


Looks sexy


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12955275*
> Jab-tech has the fill ports so you dont have to order from two different places. I think they're the only ones who have the res adapter though.
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean about the T plug


Well me just bought the brass plug from home depot that cost aboit a dollor..wahaha and plug it my drain hose with a clamp..hehehe...


----------



## HOTDOGS

IS there a single bay res package at all? Compression fittings, without fan grills? Is there a way I can contact customer support to see if they would swap out some stuff?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12955097*
> Holy crap...email tech support and he has been responding to email every 10 mins or so. They are sending a new pump...best tech support ever..


Did you think we would lie to you?


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12957207*
> Btw word of advice while pouring hot water with vinegar on ur rad to clean it up..use a FUNNEL and dont over fill it coz if the hot water touch the black coat of the rad it will peel off..so dont over fill..put fair amount and close it and shake it..


Thanks a lot. I was not going to use one. You just save me from having a bad day. It is due in tomorrow.


----------



## Kahbrohn

AND... hot water makes rad hot also!!!

Experienced this first hand (no pun intended).


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12958069*
> AND... hot water makes rad hot also!!!
> 
> Experienced this first hand (no pun intended).


Yup hot rad is not good friend of ur hands lolz..wahahaha..got that on my first touch lolz..


----------



## mbudden

LOL. Thanks for the warning. When it comes to the next cleaning, I'm taking everything out and giving everything a good rinse


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12958565*
> LOL. Thanks for the warning. When it comes to the next cleaning, I'm taking everything out and giving everything a good rinse


Wahahaha np...btw ull be surprise on how much alien stuff u got inside that rad..wahahah..ill wait for 1 more month before i clean mine..and change tubing color and add another rad..ill try and put a 480 next..lolz..


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12951600*
> Actually, no, my reservoir is not a performance piece. It has no moving parts, so I can't see how you're adding that to the system. It generates no heat and is not subject to failure from heat in the system. My point is, why would you subject a device, like your pump, that that runs at a certain temperature and if the coolant it receives is hotter, add more heat to it? Equilibrium for me is not relevant at all, as the system is never equal temperature every where. Yes, the overall temperature of the coolant will increase from room temperature with load on the devices to be cooled, but its not equal. If it was, the coolant would continue to increase in temperature up to the same point of the devices being cooled. On a CPU only loop, I could see maybe a 2-3C in-out difference, but on a CPU and 2 GPUs like mine, that difference is higher.


I'm strictly talking about a CPU only loop, as I began my post with, and still point out that loop order doesn't matter in that scenario. I only reference my machine because it has a temperature sensor before my cpu block and after my gpu block.

The water temp will never be the same temp as the object or else it can't cool it. If you think your VW engine coolant and engine operating temperature reach equilibrium by being the same temp you're sorely mistaken.

There are plenty of folks who run in much hotter ambient temps than my water temp with pumps holding up fine. If your water is over 15C Delta ambient at load you need to improve heat release- bigger rad, more rads, or more powerful fans. But in a CPU only loop? That won't be the case.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12958069*
> AND... hot water makes rad hot also!!!
> 
> Experienced this first hand (no pun intended).


Thanks I will remember that


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12958982*
> I'm strictly talking about a CPU only loop, as I began my post with, and still point out that loop order doesn't matter in that scenario. I only reference my machine because it has a temperature sensor before my cpu block and after my gpu block.
> 
> The water temp will never be the same temp as the object or else it can't cool it. If you think your VW engine coolant and engine operating temperature reach equilibrium by being the same temp you're sorely mistaken.
> 
> There are plenty of folks who run in much hotter ambient temps than my water temp with pumps holding up fine. If your water is over 15C Delta ambient at load you need to improve heat release- bigger rad, more rads, or more powerful fans. But in a CPU only loop? That won't be the case.


You jumped into my scenario which is not a CPU only loop. So what is your point? If you don't care about the pump, fine. I take it into consideration when setting up my loop. I guess companies think about cooling pumps also since they sell coolers for them.

http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=1058
http://cgi.ebay.com/DDC-pump-bottom-heatsink-damper-MCP350-MCP355-MCP35X-/330523605231?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf4bdf8ef

From Martinsliquidlab.org:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/09/laing-ddc-1-ddc-1t/

"HEAT
After testing, I did notice some warmth to the base of the pump, but nothing as extreme as the current 18watt models. The base was warm to the touch, but much cooler than the current DDC3.25 or MCP-35X pump models drawing 18+ watts. The pump typically draws around 9-10 watts, so it has about half as much heat to dissipate and does a good job at that without any extra cooling. As always, it never hurts to have some airflow over the base, but these are not nearly as warm as the higher watt DDC2, DDC3.2, DDC3.25, DDC35X pumps."


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Top of my case is only going to fit the RS series without serious mods. Going to do CPU only when I get my I5 2500K up and running. Possibly sometime down road GPU. Can fit a RS 240 with a 2 fans no problem. Heres my stupid question I could fit a RS360 with 2 fans just don't want to use up 2 drive bays. How would that perform would the extra watter capacity be god or be hurt by only 2 fans.


Any thoughts on this guys?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Any thoughts on this guys?


I just switched from the 922 to the 932. I thought of the 360 on the inside of my 922 but decided against it because even though you could fit it, you loose cooling efficiency if you do not have that 3rd. fan on it and a way to exhaust it out. To do this on the 922 you would have to heavily modify the 922. It can be done and a member has a build log but I honestly don't know where. You would have to make a search.

Bottom line, IMO, to install the RS360 with only 2 fans would not help you out. In fact, it 'may' hurt performance. Think about it.

I installed the RS360 on the back of my old 922. I can send you a pix later on if that interests you. It worked pretty well. Only thing is I only had 3 fans on it. Maybe if I had gone with 6 fans (push/pull) it would have been very efficient.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12959160*
> You jumped into my scenario which is not a CPU only loop. So what is your point? If you don't care about the pump, fine. I take it into consideration when setting up my loop. I guess companies think about cooling pumps also since they sell coolers for them.
> 
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=1058
> http://cgi.ebay.com/DDC-pump-bottom-heatsink-damper-MCP350-MCP355-MCP35X-/330523605231?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf4bdf8ef
> 
> From Martinsliquidlab.org:
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/09/laing-ddc-1-ddc-1t/
> 
> "HEAT
> After testing, I did notice some warmth to the base of the pump, but nothing as extreme as the current 18watt models. The base was warm to the touch, but much cooler than the current DDC3.25 or MCP-35X pump models drawing 18+ watts. The pump typically draws around 9-10 watts, so it has about half as much heat to dissipate and does a good job at that without any extra cooling. As always, it never hurts to have some airflow over the base, but these are not nearly as warm as the higher watt DDC2, DDC3.2, DDC3.25, DDC35X pumps."


Right, those products attempt to dissipate heat from pumps that aren't submerged in coolant and are in high ambient temperatures. The X20 750? Yeah, that pump's submerged. Would you think it was necessary to use a heatsink and thermal transfer plate for a submerged pump?

For all other regular pumps that aren't submerged, a simple intake fan moving air over it is sufficient. Where do you get this idea that the pump is going to die in a flow of coolant that, under even the most extreme load, isn't more than 9C over ambient?

I've made my point time and time again and I don't understand how it keeps being missed:

*Loop order does not matter in a CPU only loop.*

The whole Res->Rad->CPU->Res vs Res->CPU->Rad->Res discussion is moot. There is no difference. Here is the nonsense that I pointed out as nonsense and originally quoted, that started this whole discussion-
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12934775*
> IMO, I run loop from rad > reservoir/pump > CPU block > rad. Most do not consider the pump as a component and they dump the hottest coolant onto it from their CPU or GPUs. You have to remember that the X20 750 pump can run hot too. Same for a DDC or D5. I prefer my pump to get cool coolant also as part of the system.


Please don't do a disservice to people coming here and making them worry about loop order in a *CPU ONLY loop*. If you want to talk about loop order being important, then be sure to note that it's relevant to systems with multiple blocks and/or radiators.


----------



## mbudden

Seriously guys? Chill.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12962339*
> I just switched from the 922 to the 932. I thought of the 360 on the inside of my 922 but decided against it because even though you could fit it, you loose cooling efficiency if you do not have that 3rd. fan on it and a way to exhaust it out. To do this on the 922 you would have to heavily modify the 922. It can be done and a member has a build log but I honestly don't know where. You would have to make a search.
> 
> Bottom line, IMO, to install the RS360 with only 2 fans would not help you out. In fact, it 'may' hurt performance. Think about it.
> 
> I installed the RS360 on the back of my old 922. I can send you a pix later on if that interests you. It worked pretty well. Only thing is I only had 3 fans on it. Maybe if I had gone with 6 fans (push/pull) it would have been very efficient.


Thanks moding to exhaust wouldn't be the problem killing more drive bays for fan would be. So if you think 2 fans may hurt performance I will do the 240 and decide what to do later for GPU. + rep


----------



## wetfit9

Anyone lap their CPU block?


----------



## Kick

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=254683

dual loop vs single.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12964368*
> Anyone lap their CPU block?


the kit block? Mine was like a morror.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12964515*
> the kit block? Mine was like a morror.


But most are not flat.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12964619*
> But most are not flat.


Hmm. Well I checked the finish and flatness at work and it was .0001 from one corner to the diagonal corner one way and ~.0002 the other.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;12964660*
> Hmm. Well I checked the finish and flatness at work and it was .0001 from one corner to the diagonal corner one way and ~.0002 the other.


You must of got a good one, Because some are bad


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;12943829*
> What kind of load temps are you seeing? I can't decide if it's worth it to upgrade.


On Prime the highest I got was 75C. I decided to go back to 4.8Ghz and the highest I got was mid 60s on load. While gaming I'm seeing low 50s at the highest, but mostly on the mid to high 40s.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;12964283*
> Thanks moding to exhaust wouldn't be the problem killing more drive bays for fan would be. So if you think 2 fans may hurt performance I will do the 240 and decide what to do later for GPU. + rep


This is how I mounted the 360 on the rear of my old 922. Just a thought.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;12964283*
> Thanks moding to exhaust wouldn't be the problem killing more drive bays for fan would be. So if you think 2 fans may hurt performance I will do the 240 and decide what to do later for GPU. + rep


It won't "hurt" but it won't perform like a 360, more in line with a 240. I'm running a RS240 and RX120 in my system and temps are fine. Upper 50's to low 60's in the CPU cores and low 50's on the GPU. I had a Sniper, pretty much the same thing as a 922, you could add a RX120 in the bottom, or maybe in the back, looks like there might be enough room from my old pics.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12964918*
> It won't "hurt" but it won't perform like a 360, more in line with a 240. I'm running a RS240 and RX120 in my system and temps are fine. Upper 50's to low 60's in the CPU cores and low 50's on the GPU. I had a Sniper, pretty much the same thing as a 922, you could add a RX120 in the bottom, or maybe in the back, looks like there might be enough room from my old pics.


This is a good option as well.


----------



## mbudden

I love how I can go through 50 pages and spot who's not apart of the group and who is.
Updating the OP now.


----------



## mbudden

Updated. 172 members.


----------



## Twister773

So i make sure it is correct. How should the tubing go, for example...pump to rad, rad to cpu in, cpu out to res?


----------



## ht_addict

Does the contact plate need lapping before installing on these kits? Just got mine in the mail.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;12965979*
> Does the contact plate need lapping before installing on these kits? Just got mine in the mail.


Check to see how flat it is, But you don't have to.


----------



## Twister773

pump>cpu in
cpu out>rad
rad>res

?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twister773;12966209*
> pump>cpu in
> cpu out>rad
> rad>res
> 
> ?


Thats works fine. Simple CPU only loop.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twister773;12966209*
> pump>cpu in
> cpu out>rad
> rad>res
> 
> ?


That will work, Just do it whatever way looks the best in you case


----------



## Twister773

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12966223*
> Thats works fine. Simple CPU only loop.


cool, thankyou! back to work now


----------



## MURDoctrine

UGH I want to order my kit so bad but Jab-Tech is still out of stock. Anyone know another good site that offers the RX360 kit in the states?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;12966321*
> UGH I want to order my kit so bad but Jab-Tech is still out of stock. Anyone know another good site that offers the RX360 kit in the states?


Nope. Sold out everywhere


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;12966223*
> Thats works fine. Simple CPU only loop.


Understand if this is for a cpu only loop, but if I am looking to the future and adding a GPU block in the loop, what is the best way to do it, so I will not have to redo the whole thing.


----------



## mbudden

I have mine like this. CPU & GPU.

Res/Pump OUT > CPU IN > CPU OUT > GPU IN > GPU OUT > RAD IN > RAD OUT > Res/Pump IN


----------



## MURDoctrine

Will the kit's pump handle a cpu block and 2 gpu's? I plan on adding my gpu's to it at a later date. Sig rig btw.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;12966575*
> Will the kit's pump handle a cpu block and 2 gpu's? I plan on adding my gpu's to it at a later date. Sig rig btw.


Of course, a member here. Wermad had up to 4-5 blocks until he switched to a better pump. But it will hold







The pump is fine, depends on the RAD. For that, I would recommend a RX rad.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12966662*
> Of course, a member here. Wermad had up to 4-5 blocks until he switched to a better pump. But it will hold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump is fine, depends on the RAD. For that, I would recommend a RX rad.


I could not wait until they got the RX's in so I ordered a RS360, will it handle three blocks. CPU and two GPU's(580's)


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12966721*
> I could not wait until they got the RX's in so I ordered a RS360, will it handle three blocks. CPU and two GPU's(580's)


Get fans for push/pull and it should work







You could always add a RX/RS 120 to help if you need it.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12966721*
> I could not wait until they got the RX's in so I ordered a RS360, will it handle three blocks. CPU and two GPU's(580's)


I'm sure it will, though it will probably be at it's limits. But I think it would be fine.


----------



## wetfit9

Thanks guys. My plans is to add two in the furture and I will look at adding a rs120 res to it also or just mY order a rX 360 rad by itself. Well that is down the road just trying to look ahead. Also with my Extended long mother board the RX rad would have been to close to do push/pull. In a way I am glad it was out of stock. Made the decision easy.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12964211*
> Right, those products attempt to dissipate heat from pumps that aren't submerged in coolant and are in high ambient temperatures. The X20 750? Yeah, that pump's submerged. Would you think it was necessary to use a heatsink and thermal transfer plate for a submerged pump?
> 
> For all other regular pumps that aren't submerged, a simple intake fan moving air over it is sufficient. Where do you get this idea that the pump is going to die in a flow of coolant that, under even the most extreme load, isn't more than 9C over ambient?
> 
> I've made my point time and time again and I don't understand how it keeps being missed:
> 
> *Loop order does not matter in a CPU only loop.*
> 
> The whole Res->Rad->CPU->Res vs Res->CPU->Rad->Res discussion is moot. There is no difference. Here is the nonsense that I pointed out as nonsense and originally quoted, that started this whole discussion-
> 
> Please don't do a disservice to people coming here and making them worry about loop order in a *CPU ONLY loop*. If you want to talk about loop order being important, then be sure to note that it's relevant to systems with multiple blocks and/or radiators.


Its simple, most start off with a CPU only loop, then start asking questions of adding more devices to the loop. This is where loop order will come into play. I post my results of adding more items to a RASA RX360 loop system. If you want to ignore it, so be it and everyone else who is too ignorant. I have no problems leaving this thread because someone wants to argue their single loop theory of water cooling. I'm out


----------



## MURDoctrine

Haha man I've been asking a lot of questions tonight but I was wondering what fans you all recommend for the RX360 rad. Was looking at some gentle typhoons since one of the huge factors of me going WC is to reduce noise. Which RPM will be the best dBa to cooling ratio and where is the best place to order them?


----------



## mbudden

Yate Loon's seem to be the best price/performance fans that you can buy.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;12967725*
> Haha man I've been asking a lot of questions tonight but I was wondering what fans you all recommend for the RX360 rad. Was looking at some gentle typhoons since one of the huge factors of me going WC is to reduce noise. Which RPM will be the best dBa to cooling ratio and where is the best place to order them?


I have GT-15s, but have not hooked then up yet. I can tell you this, the GT-15s are silent. If I get a chance, I'll hook them up this weekend. I will be moving on coming this week, so I will post I results I get from there and move on.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

I 2nd hate loons. Only $6.99 a piece for a quality fan!!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;12967725*
> Haha man I've been asking a lot of questions tonight but I was wondering what fans you all recommend for the RX360 rad. Was looking at some gentle typhoons since one of the huge factors of me going WC is to reduce noise. Which RPM will be the best dBa to cooling ratio and where is the best place to order them?


I have GT-15's too, I love them. They are really hard to find, the GT-14's should work almost as good at the 15's with a RX rad, well at least running my 15's at 14's speed on my system. I only saw about a 5°C difference and I'm running a RS240 witch needs higher speed fans for max performance. The bonus of running 14's will be a very quite PC running at max. If you are wanting to do the leg work on fans here is a great place to start.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/

*edit*
Yates=king of bang for buck
GT-15's=king of CFM's vs dbA


----------



## SandShark

Yea, but who has GT-15's in stock?









Can't find any U.S. retailer that currently has them now. Even the GT-14's are getting rare these days.

BTW, I have 6x Cooler Master R4-L2R-20AR-R1 120mm Red's in my case. The ones mounted on the radiator pushing air up are very quiet until about 85% power. The fan on the back pulling air out of the case is quiet until 75%, but the two on the left case door as intakes to the hard drives and GPU are LOUD at just 20% power. I put rubber washers at the screw mounts and still not any better.

It's not vibration or brearing noise, but the wind noise from the blades. They sound like a car engine's fan or airplane propeller







. One good thing about them is they create A LOT OF AIR. They do an excellent job of providing streams of airflow to cool things off. With my headset on I obviously don't here them, but without a headset they get annoying and need to be turned down.

I've been trying to get GT 14s or 15s for the case door, but no luck finding them in stock. Yate Loons are inexpensive, but how are the "High" and Medium" ones with air/noise at full strength?

Hey ezveedub: Don't bale on this forum. It's a free country, write what you want! I follow your logic just fine







.


----------



## GoodInk

Check that link he has them in there.


----------



## SandShark

Cool, read it after I posted - thanks Goodink!

Although, sometimes an individual's real world differs from certain tests and charts. Like I said, my CM's are fairly quiet mounted horizontally and pushing air through radiator, but vertical on the case door they're super loud. Guess a I need a little trial and error with different fans. I will use that chart as a reference of what fans to avoid for sure.


----------



## Twister773

well i finally got it all installed, running prime 95 right now with stock clock. Before temps were 71c max while running prime 95 stock clock, current temps running prime 95 and its only at 36c haha. Could not be happier!


----------



## KillerMike84

Finish My AMD RedFlash Project Hope guys like it

AMD RedFlash Project
XSPC Rasa 450 RS120 WaterCooling Kit
MYOPENPC DOMA Pro PCI Custom Red Transparent Acrylic Open
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Quad Core 4.0Ghz
Asus Crosshair IV Formula
Patriot Sector 5 Viper II 8GB DDR3 1333MHz
Kingston SSD 64GB+30GB JBOD
WD Scorpio Blue Mobile Hard Drive 500GB
Ultra X4 750-Watt Modular Power Supply
Dual Crossfire XFX Radeon HD 5830's 1GB PCIe DDR5

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gm0gBJcy_nY[/ame]


----------



## Twister773




----------



## MURDoctrine

Wow that looks amazing.


----------



## Havoknova

Very nice guys..we got some new rig pixs!!hehehe

Men now i want to redo mine so i can post some new stuff..wahahah..im just waiting end of this month and ill be rockin..hehehe


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Thanks guys. My plans is to add two in the furture and I will look at adding a rs120 res to it also or just mY order a rX 360 rad by itself. Well that is down the road just trying to look ahead. Also with my Extended long mother board the RX rad would have been to close to do push/pull. In a way I am glad it was out of stock. Made the decision easy.


Well on my rig i got 2 rads (1x rs360 and ek 240) cooling 2 blocks (cpu and full cover mb)

But thinking to put another rx 360 and take out my 5770 crossfire and put a 6970 with wb on it..so will see how that handle..

Just deciding right now if im getting a extended ascension case from mountain mods or not...


----------



## SpeedNuggeT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KillerMike84*

















Move a 5870 down a slot or 2 for some breathing room. those things are CHOKING


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Twister773*





















That black tubing are sexy


----------



## Havoknova

@killermike84

What slots are u running ur cards at??

I bet card number 1 is on the high temps even with ur open torture rack...


----------



## mbudden

Wow. Some great pictures posted.
I'll add you guys in a bit.


----------



## alawadhi3000

Me vs algae round one.

Sent from my Vibrant using Tapatalk


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000*


Me vs algae round one.

Sent from my Vibrant using Tapatalk


Who won?


----------



## Dissentience

Wow, I got an amazing seat on the block this time around. Currently folding at 42C (17C ambient)


----------



## DannyB0y




----------



## wetfit9

RX360 in stock at jab tech now. Go get them


----------



## Twister773

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12970651*
> That black tubing are sexy


It was supposed to be uv feser black coolant with the stock clear tubing...for some reason the uv light cant make it through the clear tubing??? Here in a month or two im gonna switch out the tubing itself for some red uv tubing maybe







Thanks


----------



## masustic




----------



## Havoknova

Waaaaa i got me a random clock on my rig..4.2ghz went down by .1ghz

But my fsb is 300 and 2100 ht and 3000 dram..weeeee...so happy currently running prime 20hours now..wahahaha 4 more hours to go !!!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DannyB0y;12973750*


Nicely done..i like how u loop ur rig...


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12973499*
> Who won?


Of course I won, I'll eat that sh** for breakfast if I have to.


----------



## KillerMike84

Yeah I'm I been having problems with XFX HD 5830's in Crossfire they won't work on other slot for some reasons its driving me crazy some help if you guys can?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerMike84;12976000*
> Yeah I'm I been having problems with XFX HD 5830's in Crossfire they won't work on other slot for some reasons its driving me crazy some help if you guys can?


hmmmm what slots are u running ur cards??did u put the crossfire bridge??

did u try to enable the crossfire mode on ur CCC??


----------



## Aznboy1993

am i able to use 3/8" tubing with the rasa 750 rs240? like these (for example): http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s171/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-38_ID_Tubing-Page1.html


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993;12976575*
> am i able to use 3/8" tubing with the rasa 750 rs240? like these (for example): http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s171/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-38_ID_Tubing-Page1.html


No, use 7/16 ID-5/8 OD tubing to replace the stock tubing in the kit.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s809/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-716_ID_Tubing-Page1.html


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993;12976575*
> am i able to use 3/8" tubing with the rasa 750 rs240? like these (for example): http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s171/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-38_ID_Tubing-Page1.html


nope u cant use that..thats too small

7/16" ID 5/8"OD (STOCK)(u can use clamps or not)(uber tight tubings on the fittings)

or

1/2" ID 3/4 OD (BIGGER)(need clamps for this for tight seal)


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12974150*
> RX360 in stock at jab tech now. Go get them


lol dangit u beat me to it. Yeah ordered mine this morning.







Btw do I need to have both pt nuke and a silver coil or will just one suffice? Plan on getting both but was just curious.


----------



## ht_addict

*** is it with the NO instructions to an AM3 board. I'm a rookie here. I figured out that I had to remove the plate that came attached to the waterblock with the one for the AMD. But there was no allen key to do so. Luckily I had one. I'm using a mounting plate with the black screws that you use a spring and washer with. Now I have tightened down the screws in all four corners to the back plate. What I am wondering is how tight do you go on the part that compresses the spring.


----------



## mbudden

What're you talking about? The kit comes with the allen keys... Not to mention, I do believe it does come with instructions in one of the boxes. But I forgot what it's for. Tighten it down snug, but don't tighten it down too much.


----------



## alawadhi3000

My pump died







I'm lucky to have a replacement pump which I got it from XSPC support.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12977143*
> What're you talking about? The kit comes with the allen keys... Not to mention, I do believe it does come with instructions in one of the boxes. But I forgot what it's for. Tighten it down snug, but don't tighten it down too much.


ِThe allen key is in the reservoir/pump box.
The instructions are only for the waterblock and its in the waterblock box.


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12977143*
> What're you talking about? The kit comes with the allen keys... Not to mention, I do believe it does come with instructions in one of the boxes. But I forgot what it's for. Tighten it down snug, but don't tighten it down too much.


So how many turns of the nut is snug? The instructions only come with that for Intel. And the Allen key is only for attaching the front plate to the pump.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;12977535*
> So how many turns of the nut is snug? The instructions only come with that for Intel. And the Allen key is only for attaching the front plate to the pump.


ok the intel screw i use for my amd back plate...i used 3 screw lines on each screw...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;12977049*
> lol dangit u beat me to it. Yeah ordered mine this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw do I need to have both pt nuke and a silver coil or will just one suffice? Plan on getting both but was just curious.


silver coil will be enough...


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12977883*
> silver coil will be enough...


Figured it was from what I had read but just wanted to make sure. Thanks.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;12978022*
> Figured it was from what I had read but just wanted to make sure. Thanks.


just drop it in ur res/pump...and ur good to go...


----------



## GoodInk

Or you can do what I did, put it in one of your tubes.


----------



## ht_addict

Just wondering, do you put the whole silver coil into the res/pump chamber? Also when running for the first time to get rid of air I assume you keep the plug off to allow the air to escape? And last but not least, on the Rasa RX240 do you fill the res'v up to the top of the view window? Thanks


----------



## wetfit9

Got my RS360 in yesterday, just flush the RAD, The sad part is that I will not be able to install everything until Tues. Good things comes to those that wait. I am looking forward to the install and lower temps


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12985352*
> Got my RS360 in yesterday, just flush the RAD, The sad part is that I will not be able to install everything until Tues. Good things comes to those that wait. I am looking forward to the install and lower temps


Just installed my RX240. What a huge difference in temps(10oC dropped over my H70)


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;12988751*
> Just installed my RX240. What a huge difference in temps(10oC dropped over my H70)


wahahaha very nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

thats what im takin about...whats ur ambient??


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


wahahaha very nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

thats what im takin about...whats ur ambient??



House temp is set to 70oF. Room the computer is in feels warmer than the rest of the house.


----------



## Havoknova

u got some nice temps there man...


----------



## Blue Destroyer

woot. finally up and running on my i5 2500k and my rasa kit!!!!


----------



## mbudden

Temps?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12991887*
> Temps?


at stock. still updating drivers and such. started running prime and after 5 mins im at 37c/40c/39c/39c


----------



## Blue Destroyer

update, high temp at 10 mins is 42C...should have plenty of room to overclock LOL

and this is just with 2 yate loons as exhaust(push), if i changed to intake temps woud prob be a little better.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Whats the temp difference between an RS240 and an RS360?

Also, how about an RS360 vs an H70?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12992592*
> Whats the temp difference between an RS240 and an RS360?
> 
> Also, how about an RS360 vs an H70?


I don't know for sure but if your running just a cpu loop, the 240 would be more than enough. If u have any plans on wc your gpu go for the 360. Again don't know temps but I can tell you the 240 will beat the h70 easily.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12992592*
> Whats the temp difference between an RS240 and an RS360?
> 
> Also, how about an RS360 vs an H70?


Well I got a 10c drop @4.0 with my i7 875K. 65c with a H50 with good fans, To 55c with my RX360


----------



## Lutro0

Well, after doing the graphics and stuff when this club began.. its probably about time I join the club as well and post my system.

The Katharos Mod was just finished and it contains a RS240 Kit, with blue tubing and CM R4 fans.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12994544*
> Well, after doing the graphics and stuff when this club began.. its probably about time I join the club as well and post my system.
> 
> The Katharos Mod was just finished and it contains a RS240 Kit, with blue tubing and CM R4 fans.


Wow very nice set up! What did you use for the PSU?


----------



## mbudden

Check his build log


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12992592*
> Whats the temp difference between an RS240 and an RS360?
> 
> Also, how about an RS360 vs an H70?


Well dont have a h70 last time..

What i got is a noctua nh-d14..i can tell u right now the idle is not that big difference but on the full load..i can see a 10-15c difference...


----------



## Blue Destroyer

ok. like i said i got my system up and running yesterday but am having one major problem. the noise from the pump is horrible. my pc sits 5 feet from me and its louder then my system was with 7 fans in it lol. temps are awesome, BUT, the sound is sooooo horrible.


----------



## NitroNarcosis

How long have you had it running? Bubbles may be trapped in the loop still. (they can take serious time to escape)

Power cycle the pump

Tilt or rattle the radiator.

Ideally flip it over...not always an option

less than 1 drop of dish soap into loop to quiet Pump.

If none of this works you may have gotten a bad pump. (It's possible)


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitroNarcosis;12996402*
> How long have you had it running? Bubbles may be trapped in the loop still. (they can take serious time to escape)
> 
> Power cycle the pump
> 
> Tilt or rattle the radiator.
> 
> Ideally flip it over...not always an option
> 
> less than 1 drop of dish soap into loop to quiet Pump.
> 
> If none of this works you may have gotten a bad pump. (It's possible)


i tried soap and flipping it over. i have held a led flashlight up to the tubes with pump on and dont see any bubbles moving(any bubbles at all to be exact) so im guessing ts a bad pump


----------



## Havoknova

Well i guess u got a bad pump there bud...take some video and RMA it


----------



## Havoknova

Anybody heard about MAGICOOL rads??


----------



## mbudden

Make sure when you take the video, it isn't on YT. I remember saying something about how YT is blocked in China.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12994682*
> Wow very nice set up! What did you use for the PSU?


It "was" an ocz modxtreme 600w when I got it.... Now its pure winsauce. =)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12997433*
> Make sure when you take the video, it isn't on YT. I remember saying something about how YT is blocked in China.


That was me and yes, youtube is prohibited by the Chinese govt. You need to SEND them the actual video.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12997433*
> Make sure when you take the video, it isn't on YT. I remember saying something about how YT is blocked in China.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;12996978*
> Well i guess u got a bad pump there bud...take some video and RMA it


I already emailed and got a email stating that they would send me a new unit but its even louder now lol.


----------



## mbudden

Sucks to hear that. Where did you buy yours from?
But I just tore down my computer and put it in it's respective boxes to be shipped.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Got mine from frozencpu.


----------



## joeyac02

Question how is xspc customer service, my RAD is leaking and my kit is only 2 weeks old, do they pay to ship this one back or do they just send a new one?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12998515*
> Got mine from frozencpu.


Very interesting... Kahbrohn... Remember our PM?
This puts a fork in my theory. lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyac02;12998552*
> Question how is xspc customer service, my RAD is leaking and my kit is only 2 weeks old, do they pay to ship this one back or do they just send a new one?


I'm not sure if they will replace a radiator... Especially when it has been running for 2 weeks without leak. Where is the leak coming from?


----------



## joeyac02

opposite end of the barb, just doesnt make sense to me I haven't done ne thing lol its just been chillin here


----------



## dazedfive

I too got a noisy pump. The replacement one also made noise. I ended up putting antifreeze in it and low and behold it quieted down. I know the problems using antifreeze but its silent now.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12998585*
> Very interesting... Kahbrohn... Remember our PM?
> This puts a fork in my theory. lol.


Yep... That it does. But you had a good lead though. Curious how "antifreeze" quiets it down. Antifreeze is a bit denser than distilled water. I would have thought it would slow down the frequency of the rattle.

I still have the replacement (and rattly) pump/res on hand. Since I won't be using it now, I may run some tests with different liquids to see. Suggestions? I will run with DW and maybe siphon some antifreeze from the wife's Explorer







.


----------



## dazedfive

Probably because its thicker than water. It also runs about 2-3 degrees warmer.

I've tried watering it down and it gets louder. 50/50 is the quietest.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dazedfive;12999183*
> Probably because its thicker than water. It also runs about 2-3 degrees warmer.
> 
> I've tried watering it down and it gets louder. 50/50 is the quietest.


Hmmm... so the impellers rpm is probably slowed down enough to get it to quiet down. I know that on a test I made if I pinched the outlet tube enough (creating back pressure against the impeller) the rattling would go away.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12998515*
> Got mine from frozencpu.


I got my kit at frozen too..well looks like its just some random kits got the bad pump...


----------



## Twister773

mine is from frozencpu and its silent


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyac02;12998679*
> opposite end of the barb, just doesnt make sense to me I haven't done ne thing lol its just been chillin here


Are u talking about the thread area of the rad???if its the thread check ur oring of the barb probably its not getting a tight seal on the barb/rad thread..


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;12999258*
> Hmmm... so the impellers rpm is probably slowed down enough to get it to quiet down. I know that on a test I made if I pinched the outlet tube enough (creating back pressure against the impeller) the rattling would go away.


Well thats an easy fix, just add more blocks!


----------



## alawadhi3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;12996441*
> i tried soap and flipping it over. i have held a led flashlight up to the tubes with pump on and dont see any bubbles moving(any bubbles at all to be exact) so im guessing ts a bad pump


Mine was the same but the noise went away after a week.
Then the pump died after a month.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;12999425*
> Well thats an easy fix, just add more blocks!


True in theory... probably burn out the pump motor in the process but then I really would have a silent pump then, right?


----------



## mbudden

Kahbrohn, lol. Don't get caught stealing the wifes antifreeze.
But I would be interested in seeing what happens when there is more restriction on the pump, but then again. Wouldn't it put stress on the pump in the end?

The next time I buy another kit, I wonder if I will end up with a bad one or not.
Oh, btw fellas. If anyone is looking for a RS240 RASA kit, I'm selling mine for 100$.
Everything that comes with the kit + 2x120mm shrouds, killcoil, and 2.5" screws for the shroud fans. I cleaned everything up and it's packed waiting to be shipped. So let me know if you're interested.

*EDIT: I forgot to mention it's a pump with no noises etc. It's a dead silent one.*

I know some people have messaged me saying I can't sell it when I'm the head of the group. But tough times has unfortunately fallen upon me. But that doesn't mean that I won't be able to do my duties in this thread.


----------



## dazedfive

dead silent. ha ha


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dazedfive;12999078*
> I too got a noisy pump. The replacement one also made noise. I ended up putting antifreeze in it and low and behold it quieted down. I know the problems using antifreeze but its silent now.


What anti freeze did you use? Some are good, some you stay away from. 50/50 is a lot if you used auto coolant by the way. That does make for a denser liquid and it will lube the impeller or moving parts more.


----------



## dazedfive

premixed prestone.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dazedfive;12999649*
> premixed prestone.


Well, if your temps are fine, I guess thats OK. Is it the old Green Prestone with phoshates that glow under UV?


----------



## mbudden

LOL. That would be awesome with clear tubing.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dazedfive;12999649*
> premixed prestone.


Prestone sux ...go for motocraft..lolz -joke-

Motocraft got orange,green and gold..


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Prestone sux ...go for motocraft..lolz -joke-

Motocraft got orange,green and gold..


Gold


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;13000969*
> Gold


I use red/pink G12 coolant. Only 10% though. Looks clear in the reservoir.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I use red/pink G12 coolant. Only 10% though. Looks clear in the reservoir.


That's what I would use. If you don't know what it is, hit up a VW/Audi dealer and they should help you out. But I think it would be quite pricey coming from the dealer.

I used to know a shop in Northern VA that carried it.


----------



## Crabby654

Hey hey I think I'll be hopping ship over here from the H50 thread! I just purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 to replace my H50 that is 2 weeks old haha. I hope it'll work better than that wimpy cooler!


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Holy hell...my new res/pump arrived...dam that is some awesome customer service


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Holy hell...my new res/pump arrived...dam that is some awesome customer service


Get that thing installed and enjoy the silence, I hope.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;13001180*
> Get that thing installed and enjoy the silence, I hope.


Lol last email was friday morning my time...and here it is monday all the way from hong kong...just wow


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Lol last email was friday morning my time...and here it is monday all the way from hong kong...just wow


LOL, they have warehouses here in the states, what does the address say?


----------



## mbudden

... How in the world do these things get through customs that fast?
Everything I have bought from China takes forever...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


That's what I would use. If you don't know what it is, hit up a VW/Audi dealer and they should help you out. But I think it would be quite pricey coming from the dealer.

I used to know a shop in Northern VA that carried it.


I work for the manufacturer, so I have access to all of them. The G12 out that everyone uses is old. They have G12+ and now G12++. You only need like 1or 2 ounces for a quart or so. A gallon will last a few fill and drains. It usually is around $20 for a gallon, or cheaper at German car parts stores. You don't need a kill coil or PT nuke either.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


... How in the world do these things get through customs that fast?
Everything I have bought from China takes forever...


EMS will ship over the weekend through USPS from Asis. I used to order parts from Japan weekly. Ordered on Thursday, ship Friday, have it on Monday. Same for Germany. Got my order last week through DHL/UPS in 3 days over the weekend.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


LOL, they have warehouses here in the states, what does the address say?


Room 202 dongpingxing industry
Hong kong
Hong kong

Date shipped 2 april 2011


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Room 202 dongpingxing industry
Hong kong
Hong kong

Date shipped 2 april 2011


Did it come through USPS? Most likely EMS shipping


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Room 202 dongpingxing industry
Hong kong
Hong kong

Date shipped 2 april 2011


That is nuts!


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Did it come through USPS? Most likely EMS shipping


Ups...


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Hey hey I think I'll be hopping ship over here from the H50 thread! I just purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 to replace my H50 that is 2 weeks old haha. I hope it'll work better than that wimpy cooler!










For my 965 the temp drop from my H50 was 12 C and that was after I had lapped the H50, added shrouds and 2 X 2000 UK in push/pull. You will not regret the move to the XSPC (I have the RX 360)....the only thing you might regret is ever buying the H50 in the first place.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Hey hey I think I'll be hopping ship over here from the H50 thread! I just purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 to replace my H50 that is 2 weeks old haha. I hope it'll work better than that wimpy cooler!










lol much better....u will not regret it =)


----------



## terence52

hi guys,
do you think if the xspc x2o 750 pump can handle an extra northbridge cooling? am going to get a 930+ ex58 extreme later.








thanks


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


hi guys,
do you think if the xspc x2o 750 pump can handle an extra northbridge cooling? am going to get a 930+ ex58 extreme later.








thanks


It most certainly can, I think mbudden said it last but, there's a guy on here that has like 5 blocks running with this pump.

but more specifically, Havoknova is doing CPU+northbridge like you asked Here


----------



## Crabby654

I have a couple regarding the Rasa 750 w/triple rad:

1. Do I need to perform regular (weekly,monthly,yearly) maintenance on it?

2. I have a HAF932 with the stock airflow setup (the top fan exhausting up), how should I setup the fans the Rasa Kit comes with for best temps, so I don't have to toy around with different setups?

3. Should I lap the block that comes with the kit or leave as is? (My CPU is currently lapped).


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


For my 965 the temp drop from my H50 was 12 C and that was after I had lapped the H50, added shrouds and 2 X 2000 UK in push/pull. You will not regret the move to the XSPC (I have the RX 360)....the only thing you might regret is ever buying the H50 in the first place.










I regret buying my H70. The temp drop on my 1055T @4Ghz/1.42v was 10-12oC. Lucky for my brother he got a free H70.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


hi guys,
do you think if the xspc x2o 750 pump can handle an extra northbridge cooling? am going to get a 930+ ex58 extreme later.








thanks


well i got cpu and full motherboard block...and the flow is all good...so you will be alright running ur nb block...


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


It most certainly can, I think mbudden said it last but, there's a guy on here that has like 5 blocks running with this pump.

but more specifically, Havoknova is doing CPU+northbridge like you asked Here


i see.
thanks bro







+ rep
but i still have one qns. will my rs240 handle the extra load from the chipset?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I have a couple regarding the Rasa 750 w/triple rad:

1. Do I need to perform regular (weekly,monthly,yearly) maintenance on it?

2. I have a HAF932 with the stock airflow setup (the top fan exhausting up), how should I setup the fans the Rasa Kit comes with for best temps, so I don't have to toy around with different setups?

3. Should I lap the block that comes with the kit or leave as is? (My CPU is currently lapped).


1) for sustain performace...3 months is the best way to change water and blow the dust out of ur rad...on 6 months to 12 months its ur choice if u wana clean inside of ur rad and cpu block...

2)u need to buy 3 more fans to do a push/pull configuration...or u can change the other 3 fans and buy 6 fans...you can mount ur 360 rad on top no problem..

3) no lapping need ded on the kit..ull actually notice a big decrease on temps...


----------



## MURDoctrine

Hey are they still making the Gentle Typhoon AP-15's? Been hunting them down all day and can't seem to find that model in stock ANYWHERE. I know its the most sought after model but sheesh haha. Also with my RX360 for best results fans need to be in pull correct?


----------



## mbudden

You won't find them anywhere. When they do pop up, they are sold out immediately. So good look waiting around









I tried pull, and not bad. I tried push, and I seen a 2C drop.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


Hey are they still making the Gentle Typhoon AP-15's? Been hunting them down all day and can't seem to find that model in stock ANYWHERE. I know its the most sought after model but sheesh haha. Also with my RX360 for best results fans need to be in pull correct?


if u cant fins AP-15 anywhere just go with yate loons for now....1 fan for 6 bucks and its the closest comaprison to GT AP15...and other answer for your question go with PUSH...best performace will be push/pull...


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


1) for sustain performace...3 months is the best way to change water and blow the dust out of ur rad...on 6 months to 12 months its ur choice if u wana clean inside of ur rad and cpu block...

2)u need to buy 3 more fans to do a push/pull configuration...or u can change the other 3 fans and buy 6 fans...you can mount ur 360 rad on top no problem..

3) no lapping need ded on the kit..ull actually notice a big decrease on temps...


In terms of my second question. I meant for the initial setup when I first get it. I literally ordered just that kit tonight and was wondering how I should set it up with the 3 stock fans. Push or Pull, exhaust or intake?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


In terms of my second question. I meant for the initial setup when I first get it. I literally ordered just that kit tonight and was wondering how I should set it up with the 3 stock fans. Push or Pull, exhaust or intake?


If it's going inside your case, generally you want to have them exhausting the hot air. You don't want it pushing hot air into your rig.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


If it's going inside your case, generally you want to have them exhausting the hot air. You don't want it pushing hot air into your rig.


Thats what I figured, should I set them up on the rad as push? I'll only have the stock 3 for now.


----------



## mbudden

Push.


----------



## Crabby654

Alright thank you


----------



## CalypsoRaz

What's a good 140mm fan? I put an AP-15 at the rear of my case and looks stupid since its smaller than the grill.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


In terms of my second question. I meant for the initial setup when I first get it. I literally ordered just that kit tonight and was wondering how I should set it up with the 3 stock fans. Push or Pull, exhaust or intake?


well go with push goin exhaust.. =)


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


What's a good 140mm fan? I put an AP-15 at the rear of my case and looks stupid since its smaller than the grill.


140's go with silent fan right???go with noctua or silverstone AP141...


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


What's a good 140mm fan? I put an AP-15 at the rear of my case and looks stupid since its smaller than the grill.


I've been looking around for some for my 800D and have had good luck with Xigmatec in the past so I might grab some of these.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


i see.
thanks bro







+ rep
but i still have one qns. will my rs240 handle the extra load from the chipset?


Well if ur goin to go with ur cpu and nb block ill go with 360 rad...240 is just to small for 2 blocks...and its rs type too...go 1 rx 360 rad for the nb and cpu your running...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


I've been looking around for some for my 800D and have had good luck with Xigmatec in the past so I might grab some of these.


xigmatec are great fans too,,,its a dead silent fan...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


What's a good 140mm fan? I put an AP-15 at the rear of my case and looks stupid since its smaller than the grill.


Is that where you put the 4th AP-15?







I wish they made GTs in 140mm, LOL


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Well if ur goin to go with ur cpu and nb block ill go with 360 rad...240 is just to small for 2 blocks...and its rs type too...go 1 rx 360 rad for the nb and cpu your running...


Not sure, depending on how hot that chipset gets, it may work. I would not add anything else for sure though. I know for me, if I added a mobo chipset block, I would be adding heat to it. I have yet to see it run over 34C


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Well if ur goin to go with ur cpu and nb block ill go with 360 rad...240 is just to small for 2 blocks...and its rs type too...go 1 rx 360 rad for the nb and cpu your running...


i see. dang. need to remod the stacker if i am gonna fit a 360 rad in there. hmm.. maybe i should get an additional 120mm rad.
thanks for your help


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Not sure, depending on how hot that chipset gets, it may work. I would not add anything else for sure though. I know for me, if I added a mobo chipset block, I would be adding heat to it. I have yet to see it run over 34C


hmm. mine will get very hot i guess. its an x58 after all. hmm. i think i will get another 120mm rad during my sch holidays. lol


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


hmm. mine will get very hot i guess. its an x58 after all. hmm. i think i will get another 120mm rad during my sch holidays. lol


What temps are you seeing now off the mobo chipset?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Is that where you put the 4th AP-15?







I wish they made GTs in 140mm, LOL


haha yeah! I was like hmm, I bought four of these things.. now where should I stick this last one







When I find a good 140, I'm putting it there and the ap-15 at the bottom, in front of my psu. 140mm Ap-15's would be awesome


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


What temps are you seeing now off the mobo chipset?


i have not collected it yet. still running on my x4 945+ ma770t
going later to my fren's place to get it.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Not sure, depending on how hot that chipset gets, it may work. I would not add anything else for sure though. I know for me, if I added a mobo chipset block, I would be adding heat to it. I have yet to see it run over 34C


well on his case his nb is hot...gigabyte mobo gets hot alot...so i think he will go with that nb block...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


i have not collected it yet. still running on my x4 945+ ma770t
going later to my fren's place to get it.


Well, get it running first and then see. I know the P67 and P55 chipsets are different. Not sure about the X58, but check. You may not need a chipset block.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

There is my new system. Gotta remove the res/pump tomorrow and replace but its up and running now.


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Well, get it running first and then see. I know the P67 and P55 chipsets are different. Not sure about the X58, but check. You may not need a chipset block.


it does have a block on it already. but water cooling aint exactly necessary yet. so still thinking.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


it does have a block on it already. but water cooling aint exactly necessary yet. so still thinking.


thats why they include the block on it coz they know there chipset gets hot..so u got a option if ur goin air colling only or u go water cooling...not that u got ur rasa kit on the way its better if u put the stock chipset block and put it in ur loop for good performace...and u dont have to worry about increasing ur voltage and clocks on ur cpu-nb... =)


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*










but its up and running now.


looking good ma men... =)


----------



## kingofyo1

added in some lights, extensions, rerouted a few things for better looks


----------



## mbudden

AH. BABY FACE.








I like the LED strip. Have you tried making it more stealthy? Maybe on the roof out of view?
Love the white tubing in a 800D


----------



## Haze80

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*











added in some lights, extensions, rerouted a few things for better looks


ja ja cute baby









Nice pc setup. agree with poster above you should try to make the led strip a bit more stealthy or maybe its just the angle that you took the pic.


----------



## kingofyo1

with the side panel on, it is hidden. had a bit of a problem with routing, as the cables arent as long as i thought they'd be







had to go around the rad and thats the best place for it. Kid really wanted to be in the pic so i says to her, " hey why not? photo shoot!"


----------



## ezveedub

Mbudden, your system is disappearing, WTH


----------



## kingofyo1

here's a ****ty video of the case side panel on from my phone

  
 You Tube


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


with the side panel on, it is hidden. had a bit of a problem with routing, as the cables arent as long as i thought they'd be







had to go around the rad and thats the best place for it. Kid really wanted to be in the pic so i says to her, " hey why not? photo shoot!"


Darn wires... Nothing a little bit of soldering can't handle









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Mbudden, your system is disappearing, WTH


Slowly but surely. I'm on my laptop till I end up getting my feet wet under some sandy bridges.







Tough times only last so long.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


here's a ****ty video of the case side panel on from my phone
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXn4rFlQsOI


Looks good! Got some turbulence in that reservoir I see.


----------



## mbudden

Sounds like a blow dryer.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Slowly but surely. I'm on my laptop till I end up getting my feet wet under some sandy bridges.







Tough times only last so long.


Was contemplating SB, but I decided its not really worth it for me compared to my current rig. I'm going heavier into watercooling with bigger video cards. Might try 3 GPUs next on the RX360 just to see how much it will take before transitioning to bigger system.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Was contemplating SB, but I decided its not really worth it for me compared to my current rig. I'm going heavier into watercooling with bigger video cards. Might try 3 GPUs next on the RX360 just to see how much it will take before transitioning to bigger system.


To be quite honest, when I priced out a SB build. I found that it would cost around 600$ for basically everything. That's not bad for the performance you get. Granted that's the 2500K and not the 2600K. GTS450 for the GPU. If I was you, I'd wait for Ivy Bridge, or even Bulldozer. Whatever side of the boat you prefer.

I would love to get crazy into WC'ing. But the only reason I'd want to do that, is for form > function. I don't PC game, so I don't need a ton of this and that


----------



## Havoknova

they said june will be the release of BD HEHEHE..CANT WAIT to buy 1


----------



## kingofyo1

lulz ty on teh video comments. I gotta refill that sometime anyways.. got almost all the air outta the system


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


lulz ty on teh video comments. I gotta refill that sometime anyways.. got almost all the air outta the system


Doesn't it have a a port in the top lid? They actually run better with the return from the top and tube coming down facing the inlet at the bottom. This keeps the turbulence to a minimal. Or add a barb and fill it up more with a short piece of tubing off the top as a fill port. You can fill it completely like that.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


To be quite honest, when I priced out a SB build. I found that it would cost around 600$ for basically everything. That's not bad for the performance you get. Granted that's the 2500K and not the 2600K. GTS450 for the GPU. If I was you, I'd wait for Ivy Bridge, or even Bulldozer. Whatever side of the boat you prefer.

I would love to get crazy into WC'ing. But the only reason I'd want to do that, is for form > function. I don't PC game, so I don't need a ton of this and that










With the stuff I have laying around, it would be just CPU and mobo. I have extra DDR3 now and video cards. Hell, I got a old Koolance water cooled case sitting right now. I need to start sell this stuff soon, LOL


----------



## mbudden

Some Folding Editor said someone would need a RX360 rad for a Q6600 and a GTX460. The OP was thinking of just a RX240. A 240 would do him just fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


With the stuff I have laying around, it would be just CPU and mobo. I have exrta DDR3 now and video cards. Hell, I got a old Koolance water cooled case sitting right now. I need to start sell this stuff soon, LOL


Ah. Well what I put together was RAM/MoBo/GPU/PSU/CPU all for 600$ on the Egg. & that wasn't skimping on much either. Granted I have the case and the HDD's etc.







Not bad.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Doesn't it have a a port in the top lid? They actually run better with the return from the top and tube coming down facing the inlet at the bottom. This keeps the turbulence to a minimal. Or add a barb and fill it up more with a short piece of tubing off the top as a fill port. You can fill it completely like that.


the fillport is at the top of the res, there isnt a hole for filling built into the case like my last one had. I tried the whole inlet at the top and outlet at the bottom, and the way the tubing was routed, it wouldnt work right. All i gotta do to lower the turbulence is add a bit more water


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Some Folding Editor said someone would need a RX360 rad for a Q6600 and a GTX460. The OP was thinking of just a RX240. A 240 would do him just fine.

Ah. Well what I put together was RAM/MoBo/GPU/PSU/CPU all for 600$ on the Egg. & that wasn't skimping on much either. Granted I have the case and the HDD's etc.







Not bad.


It's cheaper now, than over a year ago. I paid over $210+ for 4 sticks of DDR3 1600 back then. Hell, now you can find 16gb on sale for $150 sometimes. LMK, I might have some stuff you could use.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1;13005806*
> the fillport is at the top of the res, there isnt a hole for filling built into the case like my last one had. I tried the whole inlet at the top and outlet at the bottom, and the way the tubing was routed, it wouldnt work right. All i gotta do to lower the turbulence is add a bit more water


Some people just leave the short tube on it and leave it like that. No connection to external port. Some hide it behind the mobo tray and remove the side panel to fill when needed. Just an idea I've seen, that's all.


----------



## mbudden

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/982950-unsure-about-wcing.html#post13005841

lulz. WUT?!?
i have yet to have anyone complain in here about a cracking res. i think there was one person, but I think they did it while installing it.


----------



## bennieboi6969

what an absolute tool lol


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13005919*
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/982950-unsure-about-wcing.html#post13005841
> 
> lulz. WUT?!?
> i have yet to have anyone complain in here about a cracking res. i think there was one person, but I think they did it while installing it.


He posted that crap in the watercooling club thread too...


----------



## Havoknova

I got my res shoved in my 5.25 bay with force..wont fit farely in there..i heard a cracking sound and i thought i crack the hell out of it..but i think im lucky it didnt crack at all..so i wont tKe my res again..eva!! Lolz


----------



## wetfit9

Forgot a question concerning fan position I am going to set my rs360 as p/p with it pushing air out the case. Question is what is best as far the rear fan, in or out?


----------



## Havoknova

Just ordered

ek 6870 block
Ek backplate
Bitspower 45 degree rotary
Biyspower 90 degree rotary
Primochill blacktubing 15 feet
Cathode inverter 4 slot
His turbo x 6870
Zalman 6 channel fan controller

Getting ready for 3block (cpu,mb full block,soon 6870 block) and 3 rads (ek240,rs360,soon coolgate360)

This will be OVA kill!!!

Let see hows rasa pump will handle this..


----------



## mbudden

It's on the front page.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13008119*
> Forgot a question concerning fan position I am going to set my rs360 as p/p with it pushing air out the case. Question is what is best as far the rear fan, in or out?


Rule of thumb is:

Rear/Top = Exhaust
Front/Side = Intake
Bottom = None or intake

This of course is all subject to change.


----------



## Korben

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13008667*
> Waaaa whats the code for frozencpu discount??i forgot..goin to buy my card block..


pcapex - discount code for Frozencpu.

I have to say I'm very impressed with this kit. I'm running my dual loop setup and my GPU temps running Crysis 2 Max never hit 50* C on my GTX 480. Definitely recomend getting this Kit with an RX360 for a dual loop CPU/GPU solution for those pondering a purchase.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13008119*
> Forgot a question concerning fan position I am going to set my rs360 as p/p with it pushing air out the case. Question is what is best as far the rear fan, in or out?


Rear fan always out..rad p/p always exhaust if its a top mount..


----------



## liquoredonlife

As for maintenance, it depends on how thorough you were with flushing your w/c components. If you weren't, I'd suggest running the system 24/7 (at least the W/C if not the components) with varying load so thermal changes are allowed to take place. Then after a week, drain it all out, refill, prime, rebleed and it should be good.

A week should be enough to evenly distribute whatever dislodged contaminants from fittings, blocks, tube, rad and res that are floating around.


----------



## Crabby654

I had a couple more questions about the water cooling kit I got! Rasa 750 triple rad.

1. Assuming its 3 months later and I am going to change the water...how do I do that? Sorry I am totally new to water cooling.

2. Is it ok to tilt my case randomly (during every day use IF I need to move it) if I need to while the water cooling is inside the case?

3. From what it looks like I will be having my Rad mounted on the top of my case with the 3 stock fans on the bottom. Suppose I decide to buy 3 more fans later on to add as pull fans. Would be alright to just unscrew the rad from the top and bend the tubes to I can shimy my way to install the 3 new fans?

Sorry if I am asking super noob questions, but what better place to ask than on the exact kit I got


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13012215*
> I had a couple more questions about the water cooling kit I got! Rasa 750 triple rad.
> 
> 1. Assuming its 3 months later and I am going to change the water...how do I do that? Sorry I am totally new to water cooling.
> 
> 2. Is it ok to tilt my case randomly (during every day use IF I need to move it) if I need to while the water cooling is inside the case?
> 
> 3. From what it looks like I will be having my Rad mounted on the top of my case with the 3 stock fans on the bottom. Suppose I decide to buy 3 more fans later on to add as pull fans. Would be alright to just unscrew the rad from the top and bend the tubes to I can shimy my way to install the 3 new fans?
> 
> Sorry if I am asking super noob questions, but what better place to ask than on the exact kit I got


1)u need to have "T" connector for a dedicated drain for ur loop..put a short tube and drain plug...

2)yes...make sure theres no leak or ur rig will take a shower lolz...

3)yes...if u got enough slack on your tube...or best way is drain water and disconnect the tube from rad and put ur new fans and reconnect tube,refill and rebleed...


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13008906*
> Rear fan always out..rad p/p always exhaust if its a top mount..


What if you're in my situation with two internal exhaust cards in a 800D would the rear still need to be exhaust or would intake be better in that situation? Guess it really doesn't matter though. They will be under water as well soon enough.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13008906*
> Rear fan always out..rad p/p always exhaust if its a top mount..


Thanks, plan on putting everything together tomorrow evening. Man I have my work cut out for me. I have to redo my sons UD3(922) build, upgrading the hard drives. Redo my daughters 775 gigabyte board, updating hard drives and CPU cooler. It will be a long night tomorrow, I am happy I will be off the next day.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13012585*
> 1)u need to have "T" connector for a dedicated drain for ur loop..put a short tube and drain plug...
> 
> 2)yes...make sure theres no leak or ur rig will take a shower lolz...
> 
> 3)yes...if u got enough slack on your tube...or best way is drain water and disconnect the tube from rad and put ur new fans and reconnect tube,refill and rebleed...


Assuming I may have forgotten to order a T connector..is there another way to drain the system? If not then I will order one and hope it gets here before the weekend.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13013157*
> Assuming I may have forgotten to order a T connector..is there another way to drain the system? If not then I will order one and hope it gets here before the weekend.


I picture thngs this way..do u have a external rad on ur loop?? If not then it will be crazy to take out 1 of ur tube if u know its full of water..u dont want it showering ur whole rig...but if u do have a external rad then u can just undo 1 of ur tube and whaaaallllaaa instant drain..but make sure ur external rad is at the back of ur rig not on top..hehhehe...

If u dont have any external rad then might as well be safe and get u a T connector and put 1 of the end of the T for dedicated drain line...make sure u got a bit longer line for the drain


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13013157*
> Assuming I may have forgotten to order a T connector..is there another way to drain the system? If not then I will order one and hope it gets here before the weekend.


cut one of the hoses, or pull it off if you get lucky. or if you left yourself enough hose length, you can pull out the res and flip it over and drain it


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13012786*
> Thanks, plan on putting everything together tomorrow evening. Man I have my work cut out for me. I have to redo my sons UD3(922) build, upgrading the hard drives. Redo my daughters 775 gigabyte board, updating hard drives and CPU cooler. It will be a long night tomorrow, I am happy I will be off the next day.


Wow u got hands full bro..well goodluck with the stuff ur goin to do...and dont forget the pix


----------



## Crabby654

So because I got the Rasa 750 kit, it only comes with 6 barbs I think they are. So I will need to order 1 1/2 T connector and 3 barbs? Just don't want to miss anything a third time ordering from frozencpu :|


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;13012743*
> What if you're in my situation with two internal exhaust cards in a 800D would the rear still need to be exhaust or would intake be better in that situation? Guess it really doesn't matter though. They will be under water as well soon enough.


Well i think 1 fan for ur hdd are well enough to cool it of.and about the exhaust "heat rises" so top should be exhaust and the rear is almost a top place for it so might as well make it exhaust


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13013223*
> So because I got the Rasa 750 kit, it only comes with 6 barbs I think they are. So I will need to order 1 1/2 T connector and 3 barbs? Just don't want to miss anything a third time ordering from frozencpu :|


Well u got choices..u can go with the plastic T's with holes on it already..or u can go with the bitspower T wer u need to get 3 barb for the 3 threads of it..

Btw i got the bitspower T and look sexy


----------



## Crabby654

I'm not looking anything fancy, just something that I can have a dedicated drain line that won't mess up the performance of the kit


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13013291*
> I'm not looking anything fancy, just something that I can have a dedicated drain line that won't mess up the performance of the kit


Well u can get any kind of T's just make sure it has the same size on each ends and ull be good


----------



## Crabby654

So assuming I have a stock Rasa 750 rig and want to setup a drain line. The tubing is 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD for the kit.

This is what I am thinking of getting:
1x http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2275/ex-tub-14/12_ID_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting.html
4x http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7475/ex-tub-302/Primochill_Nylon_Reusable_UV_Reactive_Hose_Clamp_-_UV_Red_-_58_OD.html
1x http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11877/ex-tub-727/Bitspower_Silver_Shining_Sealing_Plug_For_ID_12_Tube_BP-WTP-C31.html

Does the above make sense?

I'm also gonna assume that there will be extra tubing because it comes with 2 meters and I'm only doing my CPU with it.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13013471*
> So assuming I have a stock Rasa 750 rig and want to setup a drain line. The tubing is 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD for the kit.
> 
> This is what I am thinking of getting:
> 1x http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2275/ex-tub-14/12_ID_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting.html
> 4x http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7475/ex-tub-302/Primochill_Nylon_Reusable_UV_Reactive_Hose_Clamp_-_UV_Red_-_58_OD.html
> 1x http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11877/ex-tub-727/Bitspower_Silver_Shining_Sealing_Plug_For_ID_12_Tube_BP-WTP-C31.html
> 
> Does the above make sense?
> 
> I'm also gonna assume that there will be extra tubing because it comes with 2 meters and I'm only doing my CPU with it.


U got it bro..7/16 tubing will be tight seal for that..ur good to go..

Well acutally theres a brass drain plug at home depot that cost u about a dollor hehehe..


----------



## Crabby654

Awesome! thank you for the help. This is my first real water cooling kit anyway and I want to do it right. I'd have to have to clean in 3 months and be like..how the hell do I do this. Haha


----------



## mbudden

People be crazy, trying to lowball like crazy.


----------



## Havoknova

Mbudden ur hot when ur wRAPping wahahaha..


----------



## mbudden

LOL.
><

I just reread it and it sounds stupid LOL.


----------



## masustic

So I just recieved an extra res/pump from a friend who upgraded his rasa kit. Would there be any benefit to running both of them in series as i have two open 5 1/4 bays?


----------



## Dissentience

Not really, just your loop would take longer to heat up (and longer to cool down) due to increased volume of water


----------



## masustic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;13014072*
> Not really, just your loop would take longer to heat up (and longer to cool down) due to increased volume of water


Thats kinda what i was thinking. guess I will just save it for a back up. thanks


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masustic;13013991*
> So I just recieved an extra res/pump from a friend who upgraded his rasa kit. Would there be any benefit to running both of them in series as i have two open 5 1/4 bays?


I would try first res/pump - rad - cpu - second rez/pump - gpu block or blocks - first res/pump. Don't know if it would help temps, But it can be done


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13013772*
> People be crazy, trying to lowball like crazy.


Bud's got rhyme!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kahbrohn;13014488*
> bud's got rhyme!


----------



## Twister773

well after less than a week, i decided to order some primochill uv blue tubing and coolant to replace the stock tubing and black coolant i had. Also ordered some sleeving to clean things up a bit. Pics by this weekend if it all gets here by friday


----------



## wetfit9

Question, how do you post pictures in your post. Like to show some pictures of my build when I finish tomorrow night.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13019122*
> Question, how do you post pictures in your post. Like to show some pictures of my build when I finish tomorrow night.


upload the pictures to an image hosting website such as photobucket or imageshack. Then use the insert picture button and add the link.

you can also use the advanced post thing and attach the pictures that way too.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13019122*
> Question, how do you post pictures in your post. Like to show some pictures of my build when I finish tomorrow night.


go to photobucket and share it here or u can go to "manage attachments"...


----------



## ryujin

Has anyone tried lapping the Rasa cpu block??? I'm getting kind of high temps and I'm not sure if its just that my cpu runs hot or if my cpu block isn't sitting flush... I read a while back in the thread that someone was going to attempt it but didn't see the results... going to switch from CM R4's to high speed yate loons from Danger Den to see if that helps because the R4's don't seem to move much air through my RS240 so I think my RX240 is doing most of the work at the moment... I'm thinking it might just be the cpu though because my GTX 570 oc to [email protected] peaks out at around 44c while folding on both cpu and gpu... Any thoughts on the issue are greatly appreciated

Just got my replacement for my other 570 today (was going through SLI withdrawals) so hopefully I can figure this out before I drain my loop so I can knock out both at the same time.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Question, how do you post pictures in your post. Like to show some pictures of my build when I finish tomorrow night.


Personally I use imgur unless it's something I may want to delete in the future, then I use my Photobucket.


----------



## Wicked_Bass

After some tweaking and lots of frustration, with help from this board, evga board and hardocp this is where is sit. What do you think!








[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]


----------



## mbudden

Maximum 52C @ 4Ghz OC? That's not bad at all.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryujin*


Has anyone tried lapping the Rasa cpu block??? I'm getting kind of high temps and I'm not sure if its just that my cpu runs hot or if my cpu block isn't sitting flush... I read a while back in the thread that someone was going to attempt it but didn't see the results... going to switch from CM R4's to high speed yate loons from Danger Den to see if that helps because the R4's don't seem to move much air through my RS240 so I think my RX240 is doing most of the work at the moment... I'm thinking it might just be the cpu though because my GTX 570 oc to [email protected] peaks out at around 44c while folding on both cpu and gpu... Any thoughts on the issue are greatly appreciated

Just got my replacement for my other 570 today (was going through SLI withdrawals) so hopefully I can figure this out before I drain my loop so I can knock out both at the same time.


Whas ur temps bro??i saw someone goin to lap it but i guess no go on that 1..tell me ur temps(ambient,idle,full load)..and maybe ur voltage too..will see..btw intel chip runs hot than amd so ull see high numbers on ur oc..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wicked_Bass*


After some tweaking and lots of frustration, with help from this board, evga board and hardocp this is where is sit. What do you think!








[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]


Looks pretty cool bro...keep it up man...


----------



## mbudden

Yeah, you will need to tell us what exactly are "high temps" because 44C isn't high at all.
When I was running both my CPU & GPU folding I would get ~45C on both CPU & GPU.


----------



## ryujin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Whas ur temps bro??i saw someone goin to lap it but i guess no go on that 1..tell me ur temps(ambient,idle,full load)..and maybe ur voltage too..will see..btw intel chip runs hot than amd so ull see high numbers on ur oc..


ambient inside the case is about 30c and outside is 22c, idle is around 43c and full load is 78c... and vcore is 1.4v

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Yeah, you will need to tell us what exactly are "high temps" because 44C isn't high at all.
When I was running both my CPU & GPU folding I would get ~45C on both CPU & GPU.


Thats why I was thinking it was just my cpu because my gpu runs cool, at full load, it peaks at 44c.. or there is something wrong with my cpu block itself...


----------



## mbudden

Might be a bad seat on the CPU?
Quality TIM?


----------



## ryujin

Well I'm using Arctic Silver 5 but I was thinking of switching to MX-4 though to try it out since it supposedly nonconductive...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wicked_Bass*


After some tweaking and lots of frustration, with help from this board, evga board and hardocp this is where is sit. What do you think!








[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryujin*


Well I'm using Arctic Silver 5 but I was thinking of switching to MX-4 though to try it out since it supposedly nonconductive...


Well i guess on ur 4.2 ghz ur idle is pretty good on ur ambient....but i dont know about ur full load..maybe about low 70's im guessing u need to be... Yea intel chip runs hot...


----------



## skyn3t

for XSPC Rasa kit for CPU only what else do i need to order.


----------



## mbudden

Just a killcoil & some distilled water at your local store. That's about it.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Just a killcoil & some distilled water at your local store. That's about it.


XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 will do the job right


----------



## mbudden

For CPU only? Of course.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyn3t*


XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 will do the job right


Rs240 will be more sufficient for your cpu ONLY...if ur goin for future use like (gpu,nb,sb,mosfets,) i guess its better for you to get rx360 for more room for future upgrade..







just a thought...


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Rs240 will be more sufficient for your cpu ONLY...if ur goin for future use like (gpu,nb,sb,mosfets,) i guess its better for you to get rx360 for more room for future upgrade..







just a thought...


As I read this I giggled because I got the triple rad Rasa kit







for just my CPU, want to see if I can get my 955BE to 4.2Ghz.

Question tho!

So I got my Rasa 750 kit today and I am waiting to install it till saturday when I have a full day to get it up and running. Where should I place the the drain line in the tubing? I have a HAF932 case and it has 2 hose holes in the top back of the case, I was thinking maybe put it up there, but I am not sure how to go about doing it. How long the tube should be and what not.


----------



## ilocos boy

what u guy think first time in water cooling


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13025836*
> I have a HAF932 case and it has 2 hose holes in the top back of the case, I was thinking maybe put it up there, but I am not sure how to go about doing it. How long the tube should be and what not.


Technically, any point in the system where water goes in (e.g., reservoir fill port) can also be a drain point. We just like relocating the drain point to the lowest point of the case so we don't have to perform computer acrobatics to get the water out.

If you were to make a drain point in the back, you would have to rotate the case til the back is the lowest point of the system in order to properly drain it all out.

As for how long the tube should be, you'll just have to measure it yourself.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;13026920*
> Technically, any point in the system where water goes in (e.g., reservoir fill port) can also be a drain point. We just like relocating the drain point to the lowest point of the case so we don't have to perform computer acrobatics to get the water out.
> 
> If you were to make a drain point in the back, you would have to rotate the case til the back is the lowest point of the system in order to properly drain it all out.
> 
> As for how long the tube should be, you'll just have to measure it yourself.


Oh..well that saves a lot of...time and money I didnt need to spend :| lol


----------



## dazedfive

I would definitely add a drain line in. I have mine on the return line into the res. I started off without one and it was pita to drain.


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm, maybe I will. I dunno yet. I need to wait till Saturday to decide regardless. I just assumed I could unscrew the Res and pump and pull it forward a little and open up the fill hole and stick a tube in there and let it drain. <--Not meant to be sexy. I think it would be the lowest point in the case.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Confirming...

I have my RS360 with 6 YL high speeds in push pull. I need to look for the slowest speed that will give me best cooling, right? This is due to the high fin density?


----------



## Twister773

I am probably wrong, but I think that the RS 360 needs higher speed fans and the RX360 can use the lower speed fans


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twister773;13028237*
> I am probably wrong, but I think that the RS 360 needs higher speed fans and the RX360 can use the lower speed fans


And this is why I ask... except for some odd reason I have it the other way around. Bad week... Old age... nagging wife... all of the above... who knows.


----------



## mbudden

He has it right.

Low Speed - RX series
High Speed - RS series

I might need to add that to the FAQ


----------



## B3RGY

is a there a 600mm kit?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ok... I have them at 50% and it is pretty breezy up top of my case (exhaust side). I almost dare to say more than when I had the push fans only and at 60% duty. Very quiet considering the case sits almost 18-24 inches away from me. Will game a little soon with CoreTemp on to capture the high temp. Let's see.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13028342*
> is a there a 600mm kit?


Not that I know of. 120/240/360/480 rads.


----------



## Crabby654

I have my rasa 750 running outside my pc right testing for leaks. Can I join the club yet?


----------



## mbudden

Of course, I'll run though in a day or two and gather everyone that has posted/needs to be added to the list.


----------



## Crabby654

Alrighty awesome! I'll post a pic when I get it all setup tommrow most likely


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13028493*
> Ok... I have them at 50% and it is pretty breezy up top of my case (exhaust side). I almost dare to say more than when I had the push fans only and at 60% duty. Very quiet considering the case sits almost 18-24 inches away from me. Will game a little soon with CoreTemp on to capture the high temp. Let's see.


so did u see any kind of changes on ur temps??


----------



## MURDoctrine

Got my tubing from amazon today, still waiting on my RX360 kit though lol. Should be here tomorrow. The anticipation is killing me.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;13028761*
> Got my tubing from amazon today, still waiting on my RX360 kit though lol. Should be here tomorrow. The anticipation is killing me.


Ya it's killing me having my rasa setup 2 feet from me but not in my computer







well tomorrow will be fun rewiring my case for the third time, oi vey.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;13028761*
> Got my tubing from amazon today, still waiting on my RX360 kit though lol. Should be here tomorrow. The anticipation is killing me.


You should see me, Im waiting for my XFX 6990 to get here


----------



## Havoknova

hehehe me im waiting for my 6870 block,6870 card,black tubing,compression fittings and coolgate 360 rad =P


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13028744*
> so did u see any kind of changes on ur temps??


You know... I may have and I haven't started to game yet. Today the ambient temps were a bit higher that the past few days yet I see my idle went from 38*C down to 36-37*C. Ambient was around 86*F (30*C). That was about an hour and a half ago. Right now CPU is 36*C with an ambient of 83*F (~28*C) That's a delta of 18*C which I think is not bad. I'll edit this post a bit later on when I am in the middle of DA2 (playing my female warrior tonight!).

I dl'ed some software a bit ago and I hit 41*C. I can normally see 42-43*C when downloading.


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm...so I just realized that the Rasa kit came with a little metal coil, assuming that kills bacteria or corrosion? Which means the Feser Base Corrosion Blocker is useless that I should be getting in the mail tommrow?

Would it be bad to add it to the loop anyway? Or how many drops would I add?


----------



## mbudden

It seems that FrozenCPU is now offering a free KillCoil when you buy the kit.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13028837*
> You know... I may have and I haven't started to game yet. Today the ambient temps were a bit higher that the past few days yet I see my idle went from 38*C down to 36-37*C. Ambient was around 86*F (30*C). That was about an hour and a half ago. Right now CPU is 36*C with an ambient of 83*F (~28*C) That's a delta of 18*C which I think is not bad. I'll edit this post a bit later on when I am in the middle of DA2 (playing my female warrior tonight!).
> 
> I dl'ed some software a bit ago and I hit 41*C. I can normally see 42-43*C when downloading.


clock and voltage??looks like what i got right now...playing COD,3 internet explorer window up,1 skype,temp monitor and im 36...70 ambient..but on the hot days i get about 40-44c so looks like u got the nice benefit of the "YATE LOONS" Lolz


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13028863*
> Hmm...so I just realized that the Rasa kit came with a little metal coil, assuming that kills bacteria or corrosion? Which means the Feser Base Corrosion Blocker is useless that I should be getting in the mail tommrow?
> 
> Would it be bad to add it to the loop anyway? Or how many drops would I add?


add it anyways...extra protection from alien stuff lolz


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13028918*
> clock and voltage??looks like what i got right now...playing COD,3 internet explorer window up,1 skype,temp monitor and im 36...70 ambient..but on the hot days i get about 40-44c so looks like u got the nice benefit of the "YATE LOONS" Lolz


4.013 Ghz @ about 1.36V

Once again... that was idle.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13028948*
> add it anyways...extra protection from alien stuff lolz


Damn aliens


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13028995*
> 4.013 Ghz @ about 1.36V
> 
> Once again... that was idle.


its great temps considering ur ambient temp.....and my rad is outside so i got all the fresh air lolz


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13029041*
> its great temps considering ur ambient temp.....and my rad is outside so i got all the fresh air lolz


I was a bit concerned about having my rad on the inside BUT I then noticed that my rad does not take up the whole width of the top fan grill area. There is roughly a 1/2" free space on either side of the rad. I am almost certain that the rad fans are also pulling in air from the outside through these top "side slots" and immediately back up into the fans/rad. This is of course in addition to the slightly warmer case air being sucked in as well so I guess it all works out on the HAF 932.


----------



## wetfit9

What a day, I finish my daughter computer, My sons computer is still down, install windows and and when it restarts on it on, it will not go into windows. I have never seen that before, still researching that issue. Got my rasa 750 rs360 in, in just pull right now, didn't think to go get more screws. Was thinking the kit came with enough for push and pull. Don't know what gave me that idea. I will do that tomorrow. Cable management done on my daughters, mines, well the case is still open to see if any thing goes wrong through the night.

At a lost on a system with windows freshly install will not start. Going to break it down tomorrow and do it piece by piece.


----------



## bennieboi6969

does it have more than 1 hdd? mayb direct bios to the windows hdd ive had the problem alot


----------



## wetfit9

yes it does have more then one hard drive. I will check and see if the boot drive is listed first in the BIOS, cannot do until tomorrow morning. that sucks


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


What a day, I finish my daughter computer, My sons computer is still down, install windows and and when it restarts on it on, it will not go into windows. I have never seen that before, still researching that issue. Got my rasa 750 rs360 in, in just pull right now, didn't think to go get more screws. Was thinking the kit came with enough for push and pull. Don't know what gave me that idea. I will do that tomorrow. Cable management done on my daughters, mines, well the case is still open to see if any thing goes wrong through the night.

At a lost on a system with windows freshly install will not start. Going to break it down tomorrow and do it piece by piece.


Oh crap I hadn't thought about that either lol. What size screw do you need so I'll know what to pick up tomorrow.


----------



## bennieboi6969

6/32. and yea it pissed me off something wicked i reinstalled 3 times and each time when i connected my other hdds it wouldnt boot so i went away came back next morning and looked at bios and sure enough that was the issue


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969*


6/32. and yea it pissed me off something wicked i reinstalled 3 times and each time when i connected my other hdds it wouldnt boot so i went away came back next morning and looked at bios and sure enough that was the issue


Shutting it down for the night, I will sure check that first thing in the morning, and am I correct when your 6/32 is the screw size needed for the fans


----------



## bennieboi6969

those are the size for the fans to the rad yes and no 3/16 wont work


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969*


does it have more than 1 hdd? mayb direct bios to the windows hdd ive had the problem alot


Same here... I had the boot order wrong in BIOS.


----------



## bennieboi6969

its so simple yet so annoying


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969*


its so simple yet so annoying


Has happened to me 3 times...


----------



## Annex

My kit is still performing top notch.. The clear primochill tubing I purchased is slightly discolorated now though.. Hoping that it doesn't degrade and ruin anything before I change it out because I wasn't planning to change tubing until after I was ready to get a GPU loop set up.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


My kit is still performing top notch.. The clear primochill tubing I purchased is slightly discolorated now though.. Hoping that it doesn't degrade and ruin anything before I change it out because I wasn't planning to change tubing until after I was ready to get a GPU loop set up.


I would say to shutdown the computer. With the system off, squeeze the tubing. Is it soft or stiff? If it is as soft as when it was new, then depending on the amount of time you are planning on installing that GPU loop (3-6 months maybe?) then you should be ok. It will only get cloudier (hence, ugly) in the meantime. Keep an eye out for the water quality in the res. If that is crystal clear and nothing floating in it, you are still good.

If you feel the tubing stiffer than when it was new then it may be time to consider changing the tubing. The process does take time though... it is not immediate.

With time the tubing will degrade. It has to do with the plasticizers (material used to make the plastic soft and flexible) used in making the tubing. So far it seems to "grow" on the surface of the inside of the tubing and that's it. No reports so far of it detaching from the tubing and floating around in the loop (reason why to keep an eye out for water quality in the res). The big concern of this gunk detaching is that if you have seen the inside of a CPU water block, this gunk could get caught inside the block and degrade your cooling performance. Once again, no one has reported any issues so far but it could be a possibility. Always good to try and stay a step ahead of these issues and prevent them.

How to avoid? Well, mainly by buying plasticizer free tubing which is a bit more expensive. I recall only seeing clear tubing though. Kill coils nor biocides prevent this condition and it has nothing to do with the water you use. It's more the temperature of the water reacting with the surface of the tubing.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Has happened to me 3 times...











Planing to do raid0 setup on mine this coming weeks after i got my new loop done..this will be my first raid0 setup..do u think our board CHIV can handle 2 raid 0??

I'll be running/planning 2 60g ssd for os and games i always use. And 2 1T hdd in raid 0 for storage..

Can this be done on our board??


----------



## rushino

Got my kit today!


----------



## mbudden

Sounds good, can't wait to see it installed.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rushino*


Got my kit today!










Dont forget to take pix!!!


----------



## mbudden

& PLEASE, PLEASE take before and after temps.
& actual screen shots too please.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Planing to do raid0 setup on mine this coming weeks after i got my new loop done..this will be my first raid0 setup..do u think our board CHIV can handle 2 raid 0??

I'll be running/planning 2 60g ssd for os and games i always use. And 2 1T hdd in raid 0 for storage..

Can this be done on our board??


Yes. In fact. I have been posting my questions to start up with RAID 0 on the CH thread. I will have 2 x 640Gb WD Black's in RAID 0 (I am a poor guy with kids in college so I gotta go for the cheap stuff for now) and using that WD Green 1.5Tb for storage. Greens are not good for RAID set ups.

From some videos on YT that I saw, you should be able to run RAID 0 and RAID 1 setups on your system BUT I would say to ask someone a bit more experienced. I am just now getting my own feet wet in this aspect.


----------



## ezveedub

OK, new XSPC build going together. Basically will be running 2 RX360 rads in this M8 case. CPU and 3 GPUs under water. Not sure, but will most likely run it all as one loop. Here are some pics of how the rads will be installed. FYI, this case does have openings for the G1/4 ports, but the XSPC ports are wider than the cut out. You need to notch the case slightly to top mount these radiators. More to come as I go


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yes. In fact. I have been posting my questions to start up with RAID 0 on the CH thread. I will have 2 x 640Gb WD Black's in RAID 0 (I am a poor guy with kids in college so I gotta go for the cheap stuff for now) and using that WD Green 1.5Tb for storage. Greens are not good for RAID set ups.

From some videos on YT that I saw, you should be able to run RAID 0 and RAID 1 setups on your system BUT I would say to ask someone a bit more experienced. I am just now getting my own feet wet in this aspect.


Yea i got the ssd's already just waiting for new 6870 to come and relocate my ek rad at the bottom so i can go in and put the sata cables in for the ssd...coz ryt now the ek rad is blocking the sata slots on my board..lolz...my crossfire 5770 is goin bye bye..

Lets see how the rasa hold tge restriction of my cpu,gpu and full mb block with 3 rads on it lolz..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


OK, new XSPC build going together. Basically will be running 2 RX360 rads in this M8 case. CPU and 3 GPUs under water. Not sure, but will most likely run it all as one loop. Here are some pics of how the rads will be installed. FYI, this case does have openings for the G1/4 ports, but the XSPC ports are wider than the cut out. You need to notch the case slightly to top mount these radiators. More to come as I go










Caselabs are hot..are you goin to run those with the rasa pump??if yes..will see how strong the pump will be...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Caselabs are hot..are you goin to run those with the rasa pump??if yes..will see how strong the pump will be...


I can. I have the X20 750 pump and I have the XSPC DDC single pump reservoir also. I don't think the X20 pump will like this big of a loop, LOL


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I can. I have the X20 750 pump and I have the XSPC DDC single pump reservoir also. I don't think the X20 pump will like this big of a loop, LOL










Well thats why i ask coz it will be a great reference for peeps goin to do ur loop in the future..atleast u can tell them if the pump can handle 3 gpu and a cpu loop....test it and take some SS of the temps for reference...


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;13034201*
> its so simple yet so annoying


Checked the BIOS, the hdd are in the right order. Only two drives. Anyone can help or point me to a forum that may be able to, I am at a lost.

Fresh install on my sons rig, The system will go pass the window logo and when window is about to start, it freeze. help on this matter please.

On a better note, My rig ran all night last night with my new rs360 install, now it time to clean her up and enjoy. Just have to go pick up the screws for my second set of fans.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13036688*
> Checked the BIOS, the hdd are in the right order. Only two drives. Anyone can help or point me to a forum that may be able to, I am at a lost.
> 
> Fresh install on my sons rig, The system will go pass the window logo and when window is about to start, it freeze. help on this matter please.
> 
> On a better note, My rig ran all night last night with my new rs360 install, now it time to clean her up and enjoy. Just have to go pick up the screws for my second set of fans.


Hmmm.... almost sounds like it could be RAM. My mobo has a "compatibility" button built into it. When I had problems booting up, I hit that button and what it did was look for a RAM configuration that the mobo felt comfortable with and it booted right up. Then I set the clock timings to stock and even oc'ed a bit. No problems since. Try switching the rams around and then with one stick and then the other to see what happens.


----------



## mbudden

Rule out hardware. SMART test on the HDD's. MEMtest on the RAM. Rule out faulty hardware first.


----------



## wetfit9

Did all of the above, went down to one stick of ram, tried a different ram set with one stick in each slock, ran at default everything. I am at a lost.


----------



## mbudden

I'm not talking take them out etc. I'm talking do an actual MEMtest or run a SMART test to see if the hardware is faulty. Just taking the RAM sticks out one by one isn't testing them.


----------



## wetfit9

got it


----------



## mbudden

Rooting out problems is a PITA. lol Trust me.


----------



## wetfit9

yes, if i didn't have a bald head, I would be pulling my hair out


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13036688*
> Checked the BIOS, the hdd are in the right order. Only two drives. Anyone can help or point me to a forum that may be able to, I am at a lost.
> 
> Fresh install on my sons rig, The system will go pass the window logo and when window is about to start, it freeze. help on this matter please.
> 
> On a better note, My rig ran all night last night with my new rs360 install, now it time to clean her up and enjoy. Just have to go pick up the screws for my second set of fans.


I'm not sure what all your issues have been but thought I'd share this. With one machine I did I was getting an error message at that point after windows installed and found windows had installed a file on the second HDD. Cure was to temp disconnect the second HDD till after windows was loaded (yes I had to re-install without the second drive connected). Not sure if this is of any help, just wanted to share the info.


----------



## Khaotik55

On the original post the image for the RS360 is wrong. The RX360 is the only one with the fat radiator.


----------



## mbudden

I know that... But it's not really meant for accuracy. It's more of showing that they sell 360mm rads.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;13037033*
> I'm not sure what all your issues have been but thought I'd share this. With one machine I did I was getting an error message at that point after windows installed and found windows had installed a file on the second HDD. Cure was to temp disconnect the second HDD till after windows was loaded (yes I had to re-install without the second drive connected). Not sure if this is of any help, just wanted to share the info.


you, I saw this issue when I did my SSD install, I had never saw this on a normal hdd system, but I am going to give it a try now. I am willing to try anything.

Mem, for now I took some known good memory out of my rig and put in, same issue. going to try a fresh install with one hdd


----------



## Havoknova

Wetfit9

What setup are you trying to do on ur hdd??how many hdd u running when u got that error??


----------



## wetfit9

On this system, it is a gigabyte x58a-ud3r rev2 board, I7 930, Mushin Ram(6gb), WD 640 hdd for the system and a seagate 500 for back up. on cd drive, xfi tit sound card, corsair hx1000w ps


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13036004*
> Well thats why i ask coz it will be a great reference for peeps goin to do ur loop in the future..atleast u can tell them if the pump can handle 3 gpu and a cpu loop....test it and take some SS of the temps for reference...


I'll try it and see how it turns out. Gonna be a awhile, because I know I won't have this anywhere done by this weekend, so it will have to be when I get back in town the week after.


----------



## ezveedub

Make sure when installing the OS, you only have the HDD(s) that will boot from connected. If you connected any other HDDs when installing the OS, you can get this issue. Only fix is to reinstall the OS with the boot HDD(s) only. Also, if this is a 1155/1156 or 1366 board and you removed the CPU at any time prior to this issue and bend a pin in the socket, you will have all kinds of issues like, including booting or hardware like issues. It happened to me. OS installed fine, went to start Windows and it would just restart a the time.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13037608*
> Make sure when installing the OS, you only have the HDD(s) that will boot from connected. If you connected any other HDDs when installing the OS, you can get this issue. Only fix is to reinstall the OS with the boot HDD(s) only. Also, if this is a 1155/1156 or 1366 board and you removed the CPU at any time prior to this issue and bend a pin in the socket, you will have all kinds of issues like, including booting or hardware like issues. It happened to me. OS installed fine, went to start Windows and it would just restart a the time.


Well, it seems like I will have to take it to the work bench and work on it, but for now I am off to the store to get the screws needed to put the rest of my fans in my system and once I get the cable management done on mines and all is well then I will go back and try to fine the issue with it.


----------



## domenic

Later this spring I am going to be building a new rig consisting of a Level 10 GT case, 2x AMD 6990 video cards, an i7-2600K CPU, Z68 MB, and three 30" panels.

I already purchased one 240mm radiator kit that nicely fits inside the top of the case + a second 140mm radiator. The case has room at the bottom for a third 120mm radiator. The XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit was chosen before I decided on the 2x 6990s and I was just going to cool the CPU.

Should I assume that I need to rethink my cooling setup or could the combined 240mm radiator + the 1x or 2x 120mm radiators do the job? Will my pump handle it? If not what are my options? I was thinking sone kind of external radiator but I am not sure how it would attach to the case and external isn't as clean. Any commentary on the pump that is included in the kit?

This setup is going to cost me some big $ so I want to do it right.

Thanks,

DOM


----------



## mbudden

Wow. I'd look into getting a RX360 if you're going to try and run all that.


----------



## Havoknova

Thats the only thing about doin custom rig is the primary start up hehehe..after u pass that primary start up then u know the setup is running good hehehe..

Ill be setting up 4 new drives soon..i got me 2 ssd and 2 hdd..hopefully i install it in 1 shot withno problems (crossfingers)


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domenic;13037770*
> Later this spring I am going to be building a new rig consisting of a Level 10 GT case, 2x AMD 6990 video cards, an i7-2600K CPU, Z68 MB, and three 30" panels.
> 
> I already purchased one 240mm radiator kit that nicely fits inside the top of the case + a second 120mm radiator. The case has room at the bottom for a third 120mm radiator. The XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit was chosen before I decided on the 2x 6990s and I was just going to cool the CPU.
> 
> Should I assume that I need to rethink my cooling setup or could the combined 240mm radiator + the 1x or 2x 120mm radiators do the job? Will my pump handle it? If not what are my options? I was thinking sone kind of external radiator but I am not sure how it would attach to the case and external isn't as clean. Any commentary on the pump that is included in the kit?
> 
> This setup is going to cost me some big $ so I want to do it right.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> DOM


With 2 6990s, you may want to run a DDC or D5 pump. Also make sure your motherboard has 2 PCIe x16 slots as IMO, it's going to bottleneck the cards.


----------



## Havoknova

A lvl 10 case??watercooled? Cant picture how that will work...i thought lvl 10 cases are build for optimize for AIR flow machine...maybe im wrong but how will you put the hoses inside??drill holes??

Edit:looks like its water cooling ready..thought its the extreme case hhehe..well ur case is limited to 120mm or 240mm rad..so ur not goin to have a optimize cooling involving big rads..you can still use 120mm or 240mm rads but ull be pushing it specially on ur 2 6990's..just look for other case and buy u big rads and cool ur cpu and 2 6990 with no problem..


----------



## domenic

Looking to do something like this:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfPc_j0u6Dw&sns=em[/ame]


----------



## mbudden

Very interesting case, but I bet it isn't cheap.


----------



## XxGrave

If I remember when I get back to the house, I'll take a picture of my Level 10 GT. I have a RS240 inside and a RX240 out back. Case temps stay at ambient under load.


----------



## Havoknova

Theres a extreme level 10 that cost about 800++ bucks..abd theres a GT version that cost 200++ bucks..his getting the GT thats watercooled ready...the lvl 10extreme is the one that is uber expensive thats has no watercooling option on it..

@dom

Well i watch the video and it looks awesome..clean look and its very roomy inside..u can get 2 x 120mm and 1 x 240mm..looks like u can have nice rig goin to be..just build it with 3 rads and ull be ok..res/pump >120 rad buttom mount > cpu > 240 rad top mount > 2 x 6990 crossfire > back 120 rad then retun to res/pump..wahahaha..cool now that i see the case..


----------



## ahhell

If I was putting all that stuff in a case, I'd get a Case Labs one.


----------



## Havoknova

@dom

If ur set on the lvl 10 GT then buy u a rx240 kit of rasa then buy 2 extra 120mm rads and ull be set..but the only thing you'll be lookin is the restriction...if the pump 750 rasa will handle 3 blocks..ill be doin the same thing here pretty soon..ill be running cpu,full mobo block and gpu block with 3 rads..and run it on the rasa pump..so i can do a reference if the pump will handle it or not..

Last time i saw 1 dude did a 5 block on the rasa pump..so maybe you can run it with 3 blocks


----------



## wetfit9

hi, one question if you are running one set of fans on the rs360 is it better to have them in push or pull


----------



## Havoknova

For me ill go push...


----------



## wetfit9

Thanks, one of my fans died, so can't do p/p now, so wanted to know the best way for one set of fans.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13039652*
> Thanks, one of my fans died, so can't do p/p now, so wanted to know the best way for one set of fans.


I'd say push.


----------



## Fuddy

Hi guys, N00b to watercooling here. I'm about to place an order for the Rasa RS360 kit and have a question. I won't be cooling the CPU with it since I already have a corsair H70 on the cpu and don't want to bother with it.

My case can fit the triple rad just fine at the top (800D). I'm just going to use the Rasa kit to cool my dual 470gtx's with EK waterblocks. The kit should be able to handle that just fine correct?

More info on my system: Corsair 800d case, Asus Sabertooth p67 MB, i7 2600k cpu, dual gtx470's

tia


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuddy;13040305*
> Hi guys, N00b to watercooling here. I'm about to place an order for the Rasa RS360 kit and have a question. I won't be cooling the CPU with it since I already have a corsair H70 on the cpu and don't want to bother with it.
> 
> My case can fit the triple rad just fine at the top (800D). I'm just going to use the Rasa kit to cool my dual 470gtx's with EK waterblocks. The kit should be able to handle that just fine correct?
> 
> More info on my system: Corsair 800d case, Asus Sabertooth p67 MB, i7 2600k cpu, dual gtx470's
> 
> tia


Yes it should handle it, but it is a great waste to not use the kit to cool the CPU, the Rasa is a great block and you will get better temps than your H70. However, you would need another radiator if you wanted to put your CPU in the loop.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuddy;13040305*
> Hi guys, N00b to watercooling here. I'm about to place an order for the Rasa RS360 kit and have a question. I won't be cooling the CPU with it since I already have a corsair H70 on the cpu and don't want to bother with it.
> 
> My case can fit the triple rad just fine at the top (800D). I'm just going to use the Rasa kit to cool my dual 470gtx's with EK waterblocks. The kit should be able to handle that just fine correct?
> 
> More info on my system: Corsair 800d case, Asus Sabertooth p67 MB, i7 2600k cpu, dual gtx470's
> 
> tia


yes you should be fine...and you will have nice outcome on ur temps...just put the rasa water block in the side so if ever u wana expand then u got a cpu water block already..and if that time comes just another 240 rad or 360 and ull be fine...good luck


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;13040354*
> Yes it should handle it, but it is a great waste to not use the kit to cool the CPU, the Rasa is a great block and you will get better temps than your H70. However, you would need another radiator if you wanted to put your CPU in the loop.


hmmm, maybe I'll sell the H70 and buy another rad. Thanks


----------



## XxGrave

Here is my Level 10 GT. It's a bit dirty from being parked in my garage right now.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## rushino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13035648*
> & PLEASE, PLEASE take before and after temps.
> & actual screen shots too please.


Well this is a new build. There is no before







But i will take pictures.. offcourse.. i already started my log but not on that forum. I may start it there too. If you guys want to see it..

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/case-mods-worklog-gallery/42207-typhoon-mark-i-first-water-cooling-attempt.html

Thanks.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;13040354*
> Yes it should handle it, but it is a great waste to not use the kit to cool the CPU, the Rasa is a great block and you will get better temps than your H70. However, you would need another radiator if you wanted to put your CPU in the loop.


Agreed. The Rasa block is like the second best block out there now and it's only bested by 1-2*C. Cost-wise unbeatable IMO.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

i got a question. My distilled water has been in the fridge for a couple days now...nice and cold. when i swap out my res/pump with the replacement, is there anything to worry about with putting almost ice cold water into the system? or should i leave it out and let it get to room temp first? would love to see 1-5C temp readings if i could...be worth a screen shot lol


----------



## Crabby654

12 hour work days make it so hard for me to want to put my Rasa kit in my computer. Its still on my desk running ><. Oh so tired nuuu!! Well at least ill be busy tommrow putting it and re-doing my overclock from the ground up


----------



## Blue Destroyer

ALSO, i must say...if this kit is an enterence into water cooling....DAMMMMM!!!! I am loving 22C idle temps and 40c load temps at stock. ive had an h50, hyper 212+ a titan fenir(tested in top 5 of air coolers under $75) and none have ever kept any cpu this cool...SOOO looking forward to getting a job and being able to build more water cooling now that i know what to expect and what can be done and what is needed...the funny thing is i was so worried about leaks and all i do sometimes is look at my water level on the front res opening to make sure...havent looked inside in about a week.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


i got a question. My distilled water has been in the fridge for a couple days now...nice and cold. when i swap out my res/pump with the replacement, is there anything to worry about with putting almost ice cold water into the system? or should i leave it out and let it get to room temp first? would love to see 1-5C temp readings if i could...be worth a screen shot lol


Don't do it, condensation will form on your entire loop, dripping water all over your PC.


----------



## mbudden

Unless he has tons of rags... But idkk.... Not something I'd try


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Unless he has tons of rags... But idkk.... Not something I'd try


well it was worth a shot. im gonna pull it out now and let it get to room temps.


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I would say to shutdown the computer. With the system off, squeeze the tubing. Is it soft or stiff? If it is as soft as when it was new, then depending on the amount of time you are planning on installing that GPU loop (3-6 months maybe?) then you should be ok. It will only get cloudier (hence, ugly) in the meantime. Keep an eye out for the water quality in the res. If that is crystal clear and nothing floating in it, you are still good.

If you feel the tubing stiffer than when it was new then it may be time to consider changing the tubing. The process does take time though... it is not immediate.

With time the tubing will degrade. It has to do with the plasticizers (material used to make the plastic soft and flexible) used in making the tubing. So far it seems to "grow" on the surface of the inside of the tubing and that's it. No reports so far of it detaching from the tubing and floating around in the loop (reason why to keep an eye out for water quality in the res). The big concern of this gunk detaching is that if you have seen the inside of a CPU water block, this gunk could get caught inside the block and degrade your cooling performance. Once again, no one has reported any issues so far but it could be a possibility. Always good to try and stay a step ahead of these issues and prevent them.

How to avoid? Well, mainly by buying plasticizer free tubing which is a bit more expensive. I recall only seeing clear tubing though. Kill coils nor biocides prevent this condition and it has nothing to do with the water you use. It's more the temperature of the water reacting with the surface of the tubing.


The tubing hasn't gone hard or anything and is still soft.. The water in the res is also crystal clear, it's just that the tubing is no long crystal clear. I was planning to go UV tubing next anyway, but I didn't expect problems with primochill tubing since it seems to be highly recommended.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


The tubing hasn't gone hard or anything and is still soft.. The water in the res is also crystal clear, it's just that the tubing is no long crystal clear. I was planning to go UV tubing next anyway, but I didn't expect problems with primochill tubing since it seems to be highly recommended.


I switched to Primochill red about 3 weeks ago and it is still clear. the stock tubing was clouding up within days (if not hours) of installation. By XSPC's own admission, the tubing supplier did not give them the quality they expected. That comment was given to me unsolicited BTW.

Here is what my tubing looks like after 3 weeks. I had to use the cell cam to avoid the flash. In this pix you can clearly see the outline of the components (RAM) and such through the tube. This would not have been possible with the stock tubing.


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I switched to Primochill red about 3 weeks ago and it is still clear. the stock tubing was clouding up within days (if not hours) of installation. By XSPC's own admission, the tubing supplier did not give them the quality they expected. That comment was given to me unsolicited BTW.

Here is what my tubing looks like after 3 weeks. I had to use the cell cam to avoid the flash. In this pix you can clearly see the outline of the components (RAM) and such through the tube. This would not have been possible with the stock tubing.


The stock tubing had an overwhelmingly noxious smell.. I just used it to help clean the radiator then threw it out. I can still see the ram and everything through my tubing, so I suppose I'm still good


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


The stock tubing had an overwhelmingly noxious smell.. I just used it to help clean the radiator then threw it out. I can still see the ram and everything through my tubing, so I suppose I'm still good










Yeah... I think they sourced from a company called Watts. Big-time cheap tubing manufacturer in China. They supply Home Depot among others. I tried the HD tubing once and within hours it clouded up. I went back to the stock stuff. But you should be ok for awhile. you are going to want to upgrade the tubing once it goes from cloudy, to tan, brownish and even green... I call it the earth-tone tubing because thats the coloring it takes on.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Well I'm official now. Got my RX360 kit today. Everything is running smooth and I like it so far. Stock clocks running maybe a few degrees cooler than my Megahalems at idle. Anyhow a word of wisdom for future owners. Those fans that come with the kit are pretty good but VERY VERY fragile. I nicked my finger on one and broke one of the fins off







. Anyway had a CM R4 on hand







. Plan to put the GPU's under the next couple of weeks.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


Those fans that come with the kit are pretty good but VERY VERY fragile. I nicked my finger on one and broke one of the fins off










Happened to me too!


----------



## Fuddy

well, finally pulled the trigger...








can't wait till this comes in.


----------



## Havoknova

Wow good luck on the order..looks awesome









Btw u need 1 more rad 240 or 360...coz 3 blocks for 1 x 360 will be pushing it and ull see high temps..


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuddy;13046819*
> well, finally pulled the trigger...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't wait till this comes in.


Just so you know those black sparkle fittings are a bit different then the fittings that come with the kit, there is a noticeable color difference between chrome and black sparkle


----------



## wetfit9

Ok, I am hook, pictures to follow. still trying to figure it out. I think now I want to add another rad and water blocks for my 580's


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Ok, I am hook, pictures to follow. still trying to figure it out. I think now I want to add another rad and water blocks for my 580's


Welcome to the darkside of watercooling!!!!

Its called "WCA"
Watercooling addiction!!!

No more turning back rawr!!!


----------



## kalvin37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuddy;13046819*
> well, finally pulled the trigger...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't wait till this comes in.


You need more rad to cool 2 gtx470.


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kalvin37*


You need more rad to cool 2 gtx470.


He justs needs an RX360.


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


Just so you know those black sparkle fittings are a bit different then the fittings that come with the kit, there is a noticeable color difference between chrome and black sparkle


no biggie


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kalvin37*


You need more rad to cool 2 gtx470.


even if the loop is just the gtx470's?


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


even if the loop is just the gtx470's?


You can cool just 470's with the rs360, if you want to do cpu + gpus get the RX360 kit.


----------



## Isopropyl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*


You can cool just 470's with the rs360, if you want to do cpu + gpus get the RX360 kit.


Or add an additional 240 to the loop.


----------



## JedixJarf

How strong is this pump included with the 360 kits? Will it push 3 gpu blocks, 1 cpu block a 360 + 240 rad?


----------



## Havoknova

Actually im goin to try 3 blovks and 3 rads for reference (cpu,gpu and full mb block)..so will see..but 1 guy here tried 5 blocks before..


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Actually im goin to try 3 blovks and 3 rads for reference (cpu,gpu and full mb block)..so will see..but 1 guy here tried 5 blocks before..


did it work?


----------



## Havoknova

Goin to do it first week of MAY..but i got all the stuff already..just waiting for time to do it and some cables for the fan..


----------



## Havoknova

I got my black tubing just now..omg i want my other stuff already..waaaaaaa..

(slash wrist)


----------



## Crabby654

Welp I finally got my Rasa 750 installed after a few hiccups. For some reason none of the screws they gave me would fit into my motherboards backplate for the heatsink, so I actually had 4 long screws that were the right size.

I am soo happy with this tho, my best temps I was getting with LinX at maximum with my current OC was 56c core temp on full load, I am not getting 43c core temp on full load









Here is a pic, any tips to help do anything with it will be much appreciated!








Attachment 204595


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Welp I finally got my Rasa 750 installed after a few hiccups. For some reason none of the screws they gave me would fit into my motherboards backplate for the heatsink, so I actually had 4 long screws that were the right size.

I am soo happy with this tho, my best temps I was getting with LinX at maximum with my current OC was 56c core temp on full load, I am not getting 43c core temp on full load









Here is a pic, any tips to help do anything with it will be much appreciated!








Attachment 204595


Look sexy..now get you some tubing next coz tgose stock tubing will not be clear for long...hehe..


----------



## Crabby654

Oi tubing next? This set was suuch a tremendous pain in the ass haha, I've never done anything like this and I thought it would be all inclusive with directions, NOPE. It was fun tho.


----------



## wermad

I got the x-20 750 pump to run through an: ek supreme hf cpu block, ek mb block, 3x ek gpu blocks, rx360 for a month. even though it could handle it, I wouldn't recommend it, hence why I got a ddc pump







.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I got the x-20 750 pump to run through an: ek supreme hf cpu block, ek mb block, 3x ek gpu blocks, rx360 for a month. even though it could handle it, I wouldn't recommend it, hence why I got a ddc pump







.


It may be good to have 2 DDC pumps. When you have that many coolers, its nice to have redundancy if a pump fails.


----------



## Crabby654

Something I totally forgot to check out, but what is the average lifetime on the Rasa 750 pumps out of curosity? Anyone have a vague idea?


----------



## mbudden

Since it's a relatively new kit, I doubt anyone knows.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Since it's a relatively new kit, I doubt anyone knows.


Okie thank you









I never figured out how to get the pump running without powering on the mobo either, the kit came with a 4 pin molex connector (that the 2 wires from the pump pop out of) and a motherboard plug with a red wire connecting 2 spaces. Kind of have no idea what the motherboard plug is for.


----------



## mbudden

Uh. You basically unplug everything except the pump.
Put the PSU jumpstarter on and flip the switch and the pump will run.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Uh. You basically unplug everything except the pump.
Put the PSU jumpstarter on and flip the switch and the pump will run.


Oh that was a jumpstarter? Well I feel fairly dumb, but I have never done or seen anything like this before, at least I now know


----------



## mbudden

It's just like using a paper clip to jump start your PSU, but it's a nifty tool.
It's for leak testing etc.


----------



## Crabby654

I've been poking around the forums reading some stuffs. I had a random question tho, for the Rasa 750 kit, I believe it has 7/16 stock tubing and 1/2 barbs. Would it be a good idea at some point to get I think compression fittings and 1/2 tubing? I am honestly not 100% how compression fittings work but I'm about to look them up on frozencpu.


----------



## mbudden

Look at the FAQ. Someone posted videos about compression fittings etc and it goes into great detail. It's deff worth watching the ~30 mins of video.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

lol i miss my waters nice hummming sound from all the sounds with my main rig down with a psu being bad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


It may be good to have 2 DDC pumps. When you have that many coolers, its nice to have redundancy if a pump fails.


overkill, just rma if it quits. I have an alarm set to the 85c for the cpu and it will blast out when it hits that. cpu max temps will also shut down the pc


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13055977*
> overkill, just rma if it quits. I have an alarm set to the 85c for the cpu and it will blast out when it hits that. cpu max temps will also shut down the pc


For me, that's not an option. I pay for for topend parts, so I will expect the system to run with redundancy. If one pump goes down, replace it, but I still have a pump working with a 2 DDC system. Just my opinion. Not worth it to spend that much money and rely on a single pump. I will run XSPC parts all day, but now would consider a dual DDC reservoir at this point.


----------



## wermad

PC probe is all I need, has worked great for me


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Swapped out pump/res new one is really quiet compared to old one..just letting everything dry as I spilled water everywhere lol


----------



## Twister773

Updated mine a little


----------



## Havoknova

Looks sexy









The UV looks awesome..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13057073*
> For me, that's not an option. I pay for for topend parts, so I will expect the system to run with redundancy. If one pump goes down, replaced it, but I still have a pump working with a 2 DDC system. Just my opinion. Not worth it to spend that much money and rely on a single pump. I will run XSPC parts all day, but now would consider a dual DDC reservoir at this point.


Ill try my rasa 750 pump if it has the same flowrate or a little bit lower than original flowrate with just cpu loop..if it goes down little bit then ill try and just hang on to it..

If not..ill go and get the koolance dual ddc res..and overkill the hell out of my rig..wahahahah


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13055977*
> overkill, just rma if it quits. I have an alarm set to the 85c for the cpu and it will blast out when it hits that. cpu max temps will also shut down the pc


I got the same thing..for safety measures i got the auto shutdown out of my flowmeter..but 2 pump is great coz u dont have to worry about u taking a break and waiting for a rma to come or a service rep to give u the go to rma an i item...

It come to a certain point...you can enjoy doing what u want to do even 1 pump is down..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Swapped out pump/res new one is really quiet compared to old one..just letting everything dry as I spilled water everywhere lol


The towel is your friend!!!! Hehehehehe. Trust me, it gets easier as you do your maintenance or swap out components.


----------



## Havoknova

Weeee just got my 6870 card...now just waiting for my ek waterblock and ill be redoin my rig...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Ill try my rasa 750 pump if it has the same flowrate or a little bit lower than original flowrate with just cpu loop..if it goes down little bit then ill try and just hang on to it..

If not..ill go and get the koolance dual ddc res..and overkill the hell out of my rig..wahahahah


The Koolance reservoir is really nice. I still have my X20 750 pump, so I have it as a backup for now. Just never got around to swapping the DDC pump out when I worked on it last time.


----------



## B3RGY

any idea where i can get a 480 kit?


----------



## Crabby654

I have a random question, if I flipped my Rad around so the inlets are closer to the res, thus needing less tubing, would that be better temp wise? Or would having more tubing be good because it holds more water?


----------



## Dissentience

The volume of water in the loop only changes the amount of time it takes for the loop to heat up and cool down. Less water = heats and cools more rapidly.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


The Koolance reservoir is really nice. I still have my X20 750 pump, so I have it as a backup for now. Just never got around to swapping the DDC pump out when I worked on it last time.


I am need to all of this, but I am one that like to be safe then sorry. i just got my rs360 in and plan on adding a 120rad and two 580 block to the loop. If my system is now for more then a couple of hours it is a pain, so I was looking at back up pump/res. Any suggestions, as I plan to make the some purchases here next month. Also open for suggestions on blocks for the 580's


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Would I really benefit if o installed a 360 rad with my 240? Would the pump be able to handle it?


----------



## kingofyo1

yes and yes especially if you plan on wc'ing that 570 or your mobo or anything


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


yes and yes especially if you plan on wc'ing that 570 or your mobo or anything


The 570 is gone. Traded it for a 580 and I don't think I can wc it as the 580 is the gigabyte windforce x3 non reference. Temps with new pump/res dropped too. Load after 2 hours was only 40c from 42c. Could that be from a bad pump? Like the pump was overheating or not pushing the correct amount of water?


----------



## Nytehawk

I want to cool my i7 and GTX480, but I will probably get another 480 at some point, just not in the near future.

To save money I was thinking of getting a RASA RS360 to start with, and selling that Rad to buy an RX360 when I get a second card. Would you guys recommend doing this? Would an RS360 rad sell for enough to break even vs an RX360 kit overall?

($150 kit - n + 80rad) - 190 kit= $0 so I'd have to sell my rs360 for $40, correct?

I'm sure half of you have been in my position before. What did you do, what would you have done differently?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nytehawk*


I want to cool my i7 and GTX480, but I will probably get another 480 at some point, just not in the near future.

To save money I was thinking of getting a RASA RS360 to start with, and selling that Rad to buy an RX360 when I get a second card. Would you guys recommend doing this? Would an RS360 rad sell for enough to break even vs an RX360 kit overall?

I'm sure half of you have been in my position before. What did you do, what would you have done differently?


Your going to need the RX360 to keep a i7 and 480 cool!


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm, are compression fittings worth the investment? I'm thinking that in a month or 2 I may fully take apart my computer and paint the inside of my case. But while I'm doing that I might take apart the watercooling kit and replace the barbs/clamps with compression fittings and get 1/2 ID tubing. Would this be a good idea? Just thinking about things I can do to this sweet kit









PS - Got my 955BE overclocked to 4.2Ghz at 47c max core temp


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Hmm, are compression fittings worth the investment? I'm thinking that in a month or 2 I may fully take apart my computer and paint the inside of my case. But while I'm doing that I might take apart the watercooling kit and replace the barbs/clamps with compression fittings and get 1/2 ID tubing. Would this be a good idea? Just thinking about things I can do to this sweet kit









PS - Got my 955BE overclocked to 4.2Ghz at 47c max core temp










I think I'd rather have quick disconnects in a few of the most useful spots.

Does someone make less expensive no-spill fittings? (how quick they are doesn't matter) I was adding things up in Koolance's QDC store and had some sticker shock.


----------



## B3RGY

where can i find a 480 kit?


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B3RGY*


where can i find a 480 kit?



You can buy an RX360 kit and sell the Rad to me!









If people are using multiple Rads on the 750 pump, then I guess it can hold up to a 480 radiator.

I'm guessing there isn't much demand for one as a kit, so they don't make one.


----------



## DANTE59

Trying to install my RX360 kit in a ATCS 840, but the screw holes on the rad don't line up with the adapter. Anyone else have this issue ?


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nytehawk*


You can buy an RX360 kit and sell the Rad to me!









If people are using multiple Rads on the 750 pump, then I guess it can hold up to a 480 radiator.

I'm guessing there isn't much demand for one as a kit, so they don't make one.


no demand for a 480? idk, but i was told they sell them and i found one from a UK dealer, want an american one though because shipping costs would probably be horribad


----------



## DANTE59

performance-pc has them


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DANTE59*


performance-pc has them


no they dont
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ath=59_202_972


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


I am need to all of this, but I am one that like to be safe then sorry. i just got my rs360 in and plan on adding a 120rad and two 580 block to the loop. If my system is now for more then a couple of hours it is a pain, so I was looking at back up pump/res. Any suggestions, as I plan to make the some purchases here next month. Also open for suggestions on blocks for the 580's


If you are looking for a spare or backup pump, then a XSPC DDC reservoir with one of BMaverick's DDC-1 pumps is a low cost alternative to the stock X20 750 pump. That's what I run now. This setup will have more pumping power and if the pump fails, you can swap the pump out quickly after draining the system. For redundancy backup, a XSPC dual or triple DDC top with a bay reservoir is another option. You can run mulitple pumps in series with the top and if one pump fails, the system still works, just with reduced flow rate.

http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/ddcbayresone.pdf

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/laing-...for-laing-ddc/


----------



## DANTE59

Sorry thought you were just looking for a rad


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13063986*
> Hmm, are compression fittings worth the investment? I'm thinking that in a month or 2 I may fully take apart my computer and paint the inside of my case. But while I'm doing that I might take apart the watercooling kit and replace the barbs/clamps with compression fittings and get 1/2 ID tubing. Would this be a good idea? Just thinking about things I can do to this sweet kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS - Got my 955BE overclocked to 4.2Ghz at 47c max core temp


I went with compression fitting and 1/2 " ID from the start. Very easy to install, totally leak proof and looks much better IMHO that 7/16" ID and barbs. Go for it you won't regret it.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13063889*
> I want to cool my i7 and GTX480, but I will probably get another 480 at some point, just not in the near future.
> 
> To save money I was thinking of getting a RASA RS360 to start with, and selling that Rad to buy an RX360 when I get a second card. Would you guys recommend doing this? Would an RS360 rad sell for enough to break even vs an RX360 kit overall?
> 
> ($150 kit - n + 80rad) - 190 kit= $0 so I'd have to sell my rs360 for $40, correct?
> 
> I'm sure half of you have been in my position before. What did you do, what would you have done differently?


The RX 360 is only a few bucks more than the RS but you can use lower speed fans (quieter) and get better cooling. Go for the RX 360 now, even if all you had was the CPU.


----------



## Nytehawk

It's $40-50 more. Enough to make my decision harder.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So I just ordered my gpu blocks and etc etc. I know ppl ask this all the time but with me just running the RX360 Kit what would be a good setup of my loop. Right now with just the cpu its Rad>Res/Pump>CPU>back to Rad.


----------



## wermad

the rx360 is plenty for your cpu and gpu(s)


----------



## MURDoctrine

Yeah I figure it will be but should I go in the same order just hit the gpu's next? So in other words Rad>Res/pump>CPU>GPU1>GPU2>Rad?


----------



## mbudden

I had mine:
Res/Pump Out > CPU In > CPU Out > GPU In > GPU Out > Rad In > Rad Out > Res/Pump In


----------



## Crabby654

So once again I may have a really silly question. But how to people have their loops setup in regard to water flow? For example on the CPU block I have the out tube going to the rad, is this correct? And my In is coming from my pump. Just curious if it works better the other way around or if I am really really dumb.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13068284*
> So once again I may have a really silly question. But how to people have their loops setup in regard to water flow? For example on the CPU block I have the out tube going to the rad, is this correct? And my In is coming from my pump. Just curious if it works better the other way around or if I am really really dumb.


Thats how mine is. On a CPU only loop, it doesn't really matter.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;13068257*
> Yeah I figure it will be but should I go in the same order just hit the gpu's next? So in other words Rad>Res/pump>CPU>GPU1>GPU2>Rad?










, that is a fine order


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13068284*
> So once again I may have a really silly question. But how to people have their loops setup in regard to water flow? For example on the CPU block I have the out tube going to the rad, is this correct? And my In is coming from my pump. Just curious if it works better the other way around or if I am really really dumb.


If you are only running a CPU loop then it really has no impact. I currently have mine setup as Rad Out >Res/Pump>CPU>Rad In.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13068280*
> I had mine:
> Res/Pump Out > CPU In > CPU Out > GPU In > GPU Out > Rad In > Rad Out > Res/Pump In


Had my loop the same way.


----------



## Crabby654

Thanks for the quick replies!







Ya seems I have it setup properly then. In a month I might take the whole loop apart and spin the rad around so its closer to the pump/res and therefor less tubing. Gonna overhaul it a little bit. (Compression fittings and 1/2 tubing)

Hmm I heard a rumor that putting dye's into the liquid is a no no, is this true? or is there a special dye that is safe to use?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;13068284*
> So once again I may have a really silly question. But how to people have their loops setup in regard to water flow? For example on the CPU block I have the out tube going to the rad, is this correct? And my In is coming from my pump. Just curious if it works better the other way around or if I am really really dumb.


I have mine: res>pump>rad>cpu>ram>mb>gpu>gpu>gpu>rad>res

overall order is not important, though I would recommend the cpu should be first in the block order.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13068341*
> I have mine: res>pump>rad>cpu>ram>mb>gpu>gpu>gpu>rad>res
> 
> overall order is not important, though I would recommend the cpu should be first in the block order.


Are you running you GPUs in series or parallel with a EK link?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13068360*
> Are you running you GPUs in series or parallel with a EK link?


parallel


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13068384*
> parallel


Nice! Keeps from added restriction to the loop, but the flow through each card is slower. Works for me though.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13036728*
> Hmmm.... almost sounds like it could be RAM. My mobo has a "compatibility" button built into it. When I had problems booting up, I hit that button and what it did was look for a RAM configuration that the mobo felt comfortable with and it booted right up. Then I set the clock timings to stock and even oc'ed a bit. No problems since. Try switching the rams around and then with one stick and then the other to see what happens.


Just an FYI. It was the video card. It works as far running the screen but it would work the way it should. When you load the drivers the card locks up and shuts down the computer. I always thought when one went bad it would just stop working. I Learned something today.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DANTE59;13065270*
> Trying to install my RX360 kit in a ATCS 840, but the screw holes on the rad don't line up with the adapter. Anyone else have this issue ?


You might have better luck in the case club, I don't think anyone has a 840 in here.

http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/437979-official-cooler-master-atcs-840-owners.html


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13068763*
> Just an FYI. It was the video card. It works as far running the screen but it would work the way it should. When you load the drivers the card locks up and shuts down the computer. I always thought when one went bad it would just stop working. I Learned something today.


Is your video card stock or with a waterblock


----------



## wetfit9

stock, this is a card on my sons system.
I have 580's in sli stock. Looking to water cool them, but don't know parts to get. As I stated in a prior post I cannot deal with my main rig now for long so looking to have a back up and get everything when i get the water blocks for my 580's. So trying to get a shopping list together. something alone the lines of:?:
2 water blocks for my 580's
1 120 RAD to add to my rs360
type of pump?
type of RES?
the last two are to either to add to the system or to replace parts.
It was simple with air, just replace fans. I just like to be safe


----------



## Blue Destroyer

I dont know if im doing something wrong but my new pump is making noise now too...2 pumps both make the same noise. almost like something is loose. I did everything right on this one. turned the case every which way and watched all the bubbles run down the tubes. no more air in it that i can see and still its slowly getting louder. first one did the same. started off perfectly quiet, then started "rattiling" and got louder and louder as it went on... Everything is hooked up right. *** am i doing wrong??


----------



## MURDoctrine

I just heard mine make a little bit of a racket earlier too blue had me worried with the problems people have been experiencing. But move the case side to side and its gotten quieter. Will be monitoring it. Kits only been running like 2-3 days now







.

*Edit*
Completely silent again. Had to be air in the loop.


----------



## Crabby654

Here I am with another silly question!









I have been thinking about getting the 1/2 ID Compression fittings a little earlier than 1 month from now. My question is, are the threaded holes universal in size on the Rad/CPU block/res? Would I have to worry about the compression fittings possibly not screwing into any of the components?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Here I am with another silly question!









I have been thinking about getting the 1/2 ID Compression fittings a little earlier than 1 month from now. My question is, are the threaded holes universal in size on the Rad/CPU block/res? Would I have to worry about the compression fittings possibly not screwing into any of the components?


They all have "G 1/4" thread...so ull be safe..all u need to think about is the compression fitting outlet where u put in the tube...


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


They all have "G 1/4" thread...so ull be safe..all u need to think about is the compression fitting outlet where u put in the tube...










Alright thank you, oi I'm sorry for all the silly questions lately, but this is still such a new thing for me and fun


----------



## Havoknova

Np bud..make sure u got the ID and OD of the tubing that will help you get the right size compression fittings..specially the OD


----------



## Crabby654

I'll keep that in mind, I thought I just needed 1/2 ID tubing and fittings, wasn't sure if OD was as important.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I'll keep that in mind, I thought I just needed 1/2 ID tubing and fittings, wasn't sure if OD was as important.


The majority of tubing in that size is 1/2"ID-3/4"OD, and the majority of compression fittings are the same way, but check to make sure you getting the correct sizes before ordering.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Ok since I have my gpu blocks on the way I'm trying to work out how I'm going to drain my kit since I didn't install a drain plug. Wouldn't i be able to use something like a pipet to siphon out most of the water in the res? Sure it would be time consuming but seems like it would remove the risk of spilling lots of water everywhere correct?


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


Ok since I have my gpu blocks on the way I'm trying to work out how I'm going to drain my kit since I didn't install a drain plug. Wouldn't i be able to use something like a pipet to siphon out most of the water in the res? Sure it would be time consuming but seems like it would remove the risk of spilling lots of water everywhere correct?


I just cut the easiest tube while holding a bucket underneath


----------



## spRICE

Are 90 degree fittings terrible for your flow rate? I was thinking of having a cpu only loop but I wanted to add 4 bitspower 90 degree fittings to get the layout that I want. Would that slow my flow rate too much?


----------



## Kick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


Ok since I have my gpu blocks on the way I'm trying to work out how I'm going to drain my kit since I didn't install a drain plug. Wouldn't i be able to use something like a pipet to siphon out most of the water in the res? Sure it would be time consuming but seems like it would remove the risk of spilling lots of water everywhere correct?


Not really. You do realize if you take a tube out or block out and water is spilling out of it, you can use your finger to clog up the tube?

lol. either way, there's goign to be water, so take a tube off of a block or cut it.

also, take out your parts from the case before doing this.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


Are 90 degree fittings terrible for your flow rate? I was thinking of having a cpu only loop but I wanted to add 4 bitspower 90 degree fittings to get the layout that I want. Would that slow my flow rate too much?



Not really. I had 2 90 degree fittings in my loop when i was using the respump from the kit


----------



## mbudden

They aren't recommended.


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


Not really. I had 2 90 degree fittings in my loop when i was using the respump from the kit



Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


They aren't recommended.


Well TBH I'm just getting water cooling for the looks







So as long as they don't destroy my loop then I think I will go with them


----------



## ezveedub

I agree, the more tight or sharp turn fittings you use, the more restrictive the system gets. I will use 45 or 60 deg fitting to clear around stuff and let the larger tubing curves make up the rest. It keeps the flow rate up.


----------



## macca_dj

Add me Please I will upload some pics when I get the time too !!


----------



## mbudden

I will update the thread when I'm able to access another computer. I can't do it on my laptop. lol...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I will update the thread when I'm able to access another computer. I can't do it on my laptop. lol...


You still have a computer? I figured by now, the laptop was gone too and you were on a smart phone using a data connection


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;13074662*
> Well TBH I'm just getting water cooling for the looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as long as they don't destroy my loop then I think I will go with them


Theres 2 kinds of 90* fittings..

1) sharp angle 90*

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10757/ex-tub-684/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Silver_Shining_BP-90R2LCPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1303

And

2) soft angle 90* (mandrel curve fitting)

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8835/ex-tub-481/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_12_ID_x_34_OD_Compression_Fitting_BP-90R3CPF-CC5.html?tl=g30c409s1303

- first fitting more restrictive to the flow..but the second 1 is more like less restrictive to none restrictive to the flow..


----------



## Vodkacooling

So I have currently

2500k @ 1.38-1.45v running at 4.8ghz - 5ghz
MSI p67a-GD53
and
crossfire 6970s

I dont care about cooling the videocards with water but I want to cool the CPU with a better water cooling system than the H50. There are soooo many pages to read I get lost and instead of looking for information I get the urge to buy the rasa kit lol.

all of the pictures you guys post are sweet. I dont want to spend a lot of money so my question is

Rasa 240? or Rasa 360?


----------



## Hoops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling;13076899*
> So I have currently
> 
> 2500k @ 1.38-1.45v running at 4.8ghz - 5ghz
> MSI p67a-GD53
> and
> crossfire 6970s
> 
> I dont care about cooling the videocards with water but I want to cool the CPU with a better water cooling system than the H50. There are soooo many pages to read I get lost and instead of looking for information I get the urge to buy the rasa kit lol.
> 
> all of the pictures you guys post are sweet. I dont want to spend a lot of money so my question is
> 
> Rasa 240? or Rasa 360?


Can your case fit the 360?


----------



## Vodkacooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hoops;13076940*
> Can your case fit the 360?


its a Coolermaster Elite 370,

the only way to fit the 360 would be to attach it outside. So thats my problem. I have 2 fans at the top so a 240 would fit.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling;13077166*
> its a Coolermaster Elite 370,
> 
> the only way to fit the 360 would be to attach it outside. So thats my problem. I have 2 fans at the top so a 240 would fit.


I don't think you can fit RS240 inside that case. You can mount the rad externally on the back or top though. If thats the case, go RX360. The kits come with brackets, so you could use them for external mounting.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13077448*
> I don't think you can fit RS240 inside that case. You can mount the rad externally on the back or top though. If thats the case, go RX360. The kits come with brackets, so you could use them for external mounting.


good god lol. are those 6970s?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13077498*
> good god lol. are those 6970s?


They look like 5970's


----------



## Dissentience

6970s would not say ATi on them, I think they are 5970s


----------



## ezveedub

Obviously, a 6990 ain't gonna fit in that case, LOL
The 6970's are almost as long as the 6990 too.


----------



## Twister773

could i get added?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twister773;13058571*
> Updated mine a little


----------



## Vodkacooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13077498*
> good god lol. are those 6970s?


thats pretty much what my case looks like lol. I have done an amazing job with cable management (my personal belief) and yes those 5970 are exactly how my 6970s look in the case lol. Very close to the edge but fit perfectly. So I guess id need a new case if i wanted to fit the cooling inside? damn that sucks! a lot.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling;13078842*
> thats pretty much what my case looks like lol. I have done an amazing job with cable management (my personal belief) and yes those 5970 are exactly how my 6970s look in the case lol. Very close to the edge but fit perfectly. So I guess id need a new case if i wanted to fit the cooling inside? damn that sucks! a lot.


You will see a lot of HAF 932 cases here because they mount a RX360 in the roof perfectly with space to spare. The HAF-X costs more and has less roof room, but still will hold a RX360 in the roof. I'm moving into a larger Case Labs M8 case soon. I've out grown my HAF-932. At least for what I want, LOL.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13079131*
> You will see a lot of HAF 932 cases here because they mount a RX360 in the roof perfectly with space to spare. The HAF-X costs more and has less roof room, but still will hold a RX360 in the roof. I'm moving into a larger Case Labs M8 case soon. I've out grown my HAF-932. At least for what I want, LOL.










M8


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13079697*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M8


LOL! Here some pics. I already fitted my second RX360 to the top. Just need to get my new PSU and start transferring my components over when get back in town next week. Will be 2 RX360s for CPU and one 6990 + 6970 when done. Have the option to add RS360 to it if needed.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

when i first turn on my pc, pump is pretty quiet...longer its on, the louder it gets...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


when i first turn on my pc, pump is pretty quiet...longer its on, the louder it gets...


Is it a chatter like sound like a HDD running?


----------



## MURDoctrine

If its a clicking chatter like noise like ezveedub ask then its probably air in the loop.. Move your case around and tilt it from side to side. Mine was doing it last night. It can be just a few pockets of air left in it and the bubbles like in my case were so tiny you could barely see them moving in the res.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Is it a chatter like sound like a HDD running?


Exactly what it sounds like. Wouldn't I be seeing air bubbles though?


----------



## ezveedub

The sound is IMO, normal to impeller designed pumps. The impeller can slide left and right on the shaft. If you tilt the pump on its side with the impeller side down and run it for a while, they sometimes go away. One member added coolant mix and his quieted down. Since the coolant is thicker, it dampens the noise. Plus coolant does have lubrication like property.


----------



## wermad

should sound like an aquarium pump. its not as quiet as my ddc 3.2 though









ez, I was ready to dive into the M8 case too, but I decided to upgrade my water gear instead. Plus, @ $500, it was kinda hard to convince my better half


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


should sound like an aquarium pump. its not as quiet as my ddc 3.2 though









ez, I was ready to dive into the M8 case too, but I decided to upgrade my water gear instead. Plus, @ $500, it was kinda hard to convince my better half










Do you have a very faint high pitch whine from your DDC 3.2 pump? Thats what I have with my Bmaverick DDC pump. Not as annoying as the chatter from the X20 750 pump.

As for the M8, I ordered mine during the March discount and with some discussions with Jim about revisions, got a super discount. Gotta get another fan mount and possibly remove one HDD cage instead. The standard HDD cages are huge. This will be my case for a very long time. Plus the removal motherboard tray is very helpful with working or maintenance on the watercooling system.


----------



## wermad

Cali Tax was gonna be ~$50, another deal breaker for the M8 and me









I have the DDC 3.2, once all the air is bleed pretty well, its uber quiet. its spinning around 3900-4000k. Its really loud, like a mini blender once it gets going and running out of water, but fully submerged its eerily quiet, you have to put your ear about a couple of inches to hear it.

btw, BMav sells the 3.1 version (ie swiftech mcp 350).


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

I have a question for you guys/girls. I'm looking at finally getting...umm...my feet wet in WC'ing.







I'm considering the RX240 kit vs. the RS360 and was wondering if the RX240's performance justify's the additional cost?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Cali Tax was gonna be ~$50, another deal breaker for the M8 and me









I have the DDC 3.2, once all the air is bleed pretty well, its uber quiet. its spinning around 3900-4000k. Its really loud, like a mini blender once it gets going and running out of water, but fully submerged its eerily quiet, you have to put your ear about a couple of inches to hear it.

btw, BMav sells the 3.1 version (ie swiftech mcp 350).


The ones BMav have are off versions no one seems to have. They are 10watt versions and cannot be modded to 18watts. I cannot read the RPMs either. I think the sound I get is from the impeller version itself. Its black, not like the newer blue impellers. The review on them also said they were slightly louder. I want to try the blue impeller for the heck if it.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop*


I have a question for you guys/girls. I'm looking at finally getting...umm...my feet wet in WC'ing.







I'm considering the RX240 kit vs. the RS360 and was wondering if the RX240's performance justify's the additional cost?


RX240 works better with lower RPM fans and has more cooling efficiency over the RS240. I always go for the RX, unless you have space restrictions.


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


RX240 works better with lower RPM fans and has more cooling efficiency over the RS240. I always go for the RX, unless you have space restrictions.


That's exactly what I'd hoped. Thanks







How would the RX240 fare with some 150 cfm Delta's? I would be undervolting them (mostly because after a year plus, the noise is starting to get on my nerves a little).







Or, I may just put them to the side in favor of something else.

Edit: I just noticed I was misunderstood. I was asking for a performance comparison between the RX240 & *RS360*. I know, it's late. All good


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop;13080950*
> That's exactly what I'd hoped. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How would it fare with some 150 cfm Delta's? I would be undervolting them (mostly because after a year plus, the noise is starting to get on my nerves a little).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or, I may just put them to the side in favor of something else.


Just use the fans that come in the kit. I'm sure they're a lot quieter than 150CFM Deltas, LOL. I'm switching to GT AP-15s soon. They are uber quiet


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13081009*
> Just use the fans that come in the kit. I'm sure they're a lot quieter than 150CFM Deltas, LOL. I'm switching to GT AP-15s soon. They are uber quiet


Nice







I'm reading up on the Scythe's now. I appreciate the advice.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop*


Nice







I'm reading up on the Scythe's now. I appreciate the advice.










Did you pick on the earlier email? The RX only need low speed fans. There was a review on them and anything over 1400 rpm (25 mm fan) is really not worth it in terms of cooling. I read somewhere that the difference between a standard 1400 rpm fan like the Sythe S Flex and a 2000 rpm fan like the 38 MM Ultra Kaze was something like .5 degrees. Again, with the RX, low resistance, extra thick rad, low speed fans work just fine.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


6970s would not say ATi on them, I think they are 5970s


Lol good point. Sorry, im kinda Ati derp

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## mbudden

I will be updating this thread tonight


----------



## Havoknova

Weeee got my stuff..ill be posting some pix later..







)

Just waiting for 1 more rad and some fittings and 2x 6 channel fan contollers..and ill be set..hehhe..


----------



## wetfit9

Can I join. Looking to change out the fans next week and upgrade next month by adding another rad and gpu blocks.


----------



## wetfit9

Man, I have learned to how to upload pictures. More to come, looking for advice on future update/parts.


----------



## Garanthor

[Can I join. Looking to change out the fans next week and upgrade next month by adding another rad and gpu blocks.[/QUOTE]

That rs 360 with fans looks pretty tight yet I heard that someone put an RX 360 with fans in their HAF X. Does that seem right? Perhaps the angle is just odd. I was thinking of upgrading my 922 to a HAF X but only if I could put the RX rad inside with three fans underneath it. Thoughts?


----------



## Kahbrohn

I have an RS360 with 6 fans (push/pull) in my 932 with at least another 3/4" to spare... so I would tend to think that an Rx360 with just 3 fans is very much do-able in the HAF X. My setup would roughly be the same thickness as the proposed RX360 + 3x25MM fans.


----------



## wetfit9

I wanted the RX60, but it would be a very tight fit in the the top with fan in a push. It would have right up against my mobo and I didn't want that. So when I go to add my gpu's in the loop I am going to have to add a few things


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13087733*
> I wanted the RX60, but it would be a very tight fit in the the top with fan in a push. It would have right up against my mobo and I didn't want that. So when I go to add my gpu's in the loop I am going to have to add a few things


That's what I thought. I heard it can be done but it's very very tight. The HAF 932 has more room up there than the HAF X so I know you can fit an RX 360 in a 932 no problem but I like the HAF X design much more than the 932.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;13087902*
> That's what I thought. I heard it can be done but it's very very tight. The HAF 932 has more room up there than the HAF X so I know you can fit an RX 360 in a 932 no problem but I like the HAF X design much more than the 932.


I feel the same way. I am thinking of adding a 120mm RAD to the back fan area and do p/p on both and adding a second pump. Still trying to get a shopping list together.


----------



## ezveedub

I'll be checking in here end of the week guys. Heading out to sea, almost no reception now. Catch you guys later.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13080870*
> The ones BMav have are off versions no one seems to have. They are 10watt versions and cannot be modded to 18watts. I cannot read the RPMs either. I think the sound I get is from the impeller version itself. Its black, not like the newer blue impellers. The review on them also said they were slightly louder. I want to try the blue impeller for the heck if it.


Weird, I hear the the 3.2 (blue impeller) is louder due to its higher voltage.


----------



## Havoknova

well got all of my stuff in that i ordered last week...my 3 rad setup wont work on my case..need to drill holes and custom made braket of 2 rads to fit at the back of my case...

and after that problem is solve im goin to need 6 x 45* compression fittings and 4 x 90* compression fittings...and im like *** just for the fittings its almost 200 bucks already...wth right...my girlfriend will kill me if im not gonna go on vacation on seattle this june...she will kill me for sure..wahahah..

so probably what im goin to end up doin is just do 2 rad and 3 block setup...ordered 3 x 2000 rps sickle flow cooler master fans...i got 6 on hand already...and man im telling u right now the air difference is freakin amazing...at 2000 rps i cant hardly hear anything...

so heres my ek block and back plate and my xfx 6870 =)


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13087405*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join. Looking to change out the fans next week and upgrade next month by adding another rad and gpu blocks.


nice looking sexy bro...im like HOLY yellow SMOKES green..heheheh...


----------



## ounderfla69

Quick question can the res and pump from an RS360 kit work mounted in a different orientation. I'm putting it in a server case and dont have any 5 1/4 bays available, I want to mount it on its side. Will the pump have problems?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ounderfla69*


Quick question can the res and pump from an RS360 kit work mounted in a different orientation. I'm putting it in a server case and dont have any 5 1/4 bays available, I want to mount it on its side. Will the pump have problems?


If you mount it with the impeller side down, inlet at port at top, it should be fine.


----------



## mbudden

Okay, I lied. Tomorrow morning-ish sometime I will be able to get it done.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*











Can I join. Looking to change out the fans next week and upgrade next month by adding another rad and gpu blocks.


Your house has weird windows.


----------



## wermad

Performance-pcs is now carrying the RASA kits









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ath=59_202_972


----------



## DANTE59

Just 4 GT-15's from AquaTunining, will be leak testing this afternoon


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DANTE59;13097252*
> Just 4 GT-15's from AquaTunining, will be leak testing this afternoon


Sounds great man..dont forget some pix


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13092826*
> Your house has weird windows.


?


----------



## spoolindsm127

I remember when this thread has just started. It was only a couple pages big but look at it now









Just thought I'd share my experience with the kit. If you are planning to get clear tubing, especially Primochill LRT, this is what your tubes may look like after 3-4 months of use with only pure distilled water and silver kill coil.









Interesting thing to note is that the t-line section of tubing is perfectly clear and not discolored. That discoloration was also on the inside of the fittings, dried up and kinda powdery. Easily wiped off the metal fittings with a paper towel. Also comes off from inside the hoses with a paper towel, but not as easily as it does off metal. So the hoses can still be cleaned and reused. But most likely they will discolor again.


----------



## DANTE59

LOL, not sure how to do pics...i'll take some for sure, then work on downloading while the loop is running


----------



## Havoknova

Lol make sure ur loop dont have any leak while ur downloading..wahahaha


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;13098322*
> I remember when this thread has just started. It was only a couple pages big but look at it now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just thought I'd share my experience with the kit. If you are planning to get clear tubing, especially Primochill LRT, this is what your tubes may look like after 3-4 months of use.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting thing to note is that the t-line section of tubing is perfectly clear and not discolored. That discoloration was also on the inside of the fittings, dried up and kinda powdery. Easily wiped off the metal fittings with a paper towel. Also comes off from inside the hoses with a paper towel, but not as easily as it does off metal. So the hoses can still be cleaned and reused. But most likely they will discolor again.


Thats some antique tubings right there..i bet that smells bad inside too


----------



## Fuddy

so the kit I ordered from FrozenCPU should be here tomorrow









I cancelled the waterblocks since they were back ordered and ordered them instead from aquatuning.us

they'll be here tomorrow too!! overnight shipping from Germany







I'm like a kid waiting for christmas


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13099642*
> Thats some antique tubings right there..i bet that smells bad inside too


Lol yea it looks like toilet water. Although it doesn't smell like it tho. It has a smell, but not foul. I don't know how to explain it but it has a electrical components' type of smell. Not foul at all but distinctive.

Although they look "antique" they were purchased new with the kit. I would love to know if there is any clear tubing that always remains clear. I don't believe anything of the like exists


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;13099828*
> Lol yea it looks like toilet water. Although it doesn't smell like it tho. It has a smell, but not foul. I don't know how to explain it but it has a electrical components' type of smell. Not foul at all but distinctive.
> 
> Although they look "antique" they were purchased new with the kit. I would love to know if there is any clear tubing that always remains clear. I don't believe anything of the like exists


so I'm assuming people have that problem even with colored tubing?


----------



## Havoknova

I used coloered tubing from the start..i still got the stock tubing on stock arrangement in stock box wahaha...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuddy;13099861*
> so I'm assuming people have that problem even with colored tubing?


Nahhhh...i got green tubing on mine and i didnt see any kind of discoloration of any sort...but dont about the smell..will this thursday how it smells hehe..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuddy;13099782*
> so the kit I ordered from FrozenCPU should be here tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cancelled the waterblocks since they were back ordered and ordered them instead from aquatuning.us
> 
> they'll be here tomorrow too!! overnight shipping from Germany
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm like a kid waiting for christmas


Good choice...you will not regret it


----------



## amantonas

That same thing happened to my tubing... I just got white tubing. The tubing they give you is crappy, it deteriorates and leaves that film on everything. I drained my loop 2 months after I put it together with the white tubing, and there was nothing on the inside of the tubing, which was PrimoChill.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


so I'm assuming people have that problem even with colored tubing?


Primochill Primoflex seems to be the most popular tube around. I've used them for several builds and really like the quality and color options. I'm currently running white, which looks really nice against the black interior of my case.


----------



## DANTE59

My case








Prepped for build








Rad installed








Mobo with block, no cpu








Ready for water








Filled and testing....no leaks
















Thursday i'm off and i put the parts in ...


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Leak test.. ha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DANTE59*


*snip*







*snip*


nice choice with the board


----------



## rushino

Anyone got rattling noise issue with the pump ? mine actually rattling.. is there any way to fix that ?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

So I'm going to be ordering the koolance block:









So I'll be replacing my thermal pads n such. I've never done so on anything so what kind should I get and is there anything I should know before taking on the task?

Of course I'll need barbs and extra tubing and more TIM


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


So I'm going to be ordering the koolance block:









So I'll be replacing my thermal pads n such. I've never done so on anything so what kind should I get and is there anything I should know before taking on the task?

Of course I'll need barbs and extra tubing and more TIM


It should come with pads for you to use.

And on another note i redid my loop its not real pretty yet and anti kinks are a pain lol.


----------



## ali7up

Add me:750 RX360 kit.


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


so I'm assuming people have that problem even with colored tubing?


Not so much I think. I'm hoping not at all.

I bought Primochill UV Red to replace that nasty looking Primochill clear tubing.

I will post results


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13103861*
> So I'm going to be ordering the koolance block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'll be replacing my thermal pads n such. I've never done so on anything so what kind should I get and is there anything I should know before taking on the task?
> 
> Of course I'll need barbs and extra tubing and more TIM


Koolance mb block comes with TIM and thermal pads on it..just cut the thermal pad into the right sizes and stick it on the block (theres manual inside the box)..

Bow for the NB and SB just use a nicer TiM for it and ull be set...good luck..and ad i told you before "you will not regret it"

Coz you will see some crazy temps..hehe..


----------



## Fuddy

just got my waterblocks from aquatuning.us $8.00 overnight shipping from germany is amazing. I got the waterblocks before the Rasa Kit lol


----------



## Fuddy

when you guys received the rasa kit was there condensation/water in the reservoir? Just opened mine and it looks used... I'm hoping that was just from testing


----------



## ahhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuddy;13109379*
> when you guys received the rasa kit was there condensation/water in the reservoir? Just opened mine and it looks used... I'm hoping that was just from testing


Nope. Could it be a referb? Maybe they were checking for leaks.


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhell;13109426*
> Nope. Could it be a referb? Maybe they were checking for leaks.


damn, hopefully that's not the case


----------



## Havoknova

Just put it everything on and check if theres leaks on the res or any kind of rattle on the pump..

If yes..just RMA the res/pump..

Xspc are great on RMA..so you dont have to worry..

But for now check it first..


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Thanks Havok.

And don't they pressure test the reservoirs?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Fuddy

does loop order matter?

I was thinking of doing Res/pump -> gpu1 - gpu2 -> rad -> Res/Pump


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13109751*
> Thanks Havok.
> 
> And don't they pressure test the reservoirs?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Np...

So hows ur temps and clocks you got on ur rig now with water??


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


does loop order matter?

I was thinking of doing Res/pump -> gpu1 - gpu2 -> rad -> Res/Pump


Loop order actually doesnt really matter that much...its all on you,how you want ur tubing route design to look cool..

But if ill go loop it ill go rad first before gpu block..so you can dump the coldest water straight to those blazing hot and sexy block hehehe..


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13109973*
> Np...
> 
> So hows ur temps and clocks you got on ur rig now with water??


My cpu is 42 while folding and my nb is about 54. It used to get around 12 degrees hotter before I reseated

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


My cpu is 42 while folding and my nb is about 54. It used to get around 12 degrees hotter before I reseated

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Me i got no luck on the reseat so i just went and the waterblock..and my highest temp is 43 on the nb...cool men...ill be redoin my loop here pretty soon..puting some new fans and new fittings...and get my new video card in water too so ill be having 3 blocks and 2 rads..on the loop..


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Me i got no luck on the reseat so i just went and the waterblock..and my highest temp is 43 on the nb...cool men...ill be redoin my loop here pretty soon..puting some new fans and new fittings...and get my new video card in water too so ill be having 3 blocks and 2 rads..on the loop..


Sounds awesome, looking forward to some pictures. I don't think ill put my card, soon to been plural, under. They don't get that hot, the only plus for me would be the lack of noise.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Even though my kit is loud as hell(im getting used to it so not that bad anymore) my temps are friggin amazing...idle temps are as low as 16c(left the heat off last night) and loaded up to 33C LOL...hell my gtx 580 is sitting at 26C idle LOL


----------



## Havoknova

@blue

Wow stock clock??and ur 580 on water too??


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13110657*
> Sounds awesome, looking forward to some pictures. I don't think ill put my card, soon to been plural, under. They don't get that hot, the only plus for me would be the lack of noise.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Ill put my card on water coz i dont want to mess with high sounding videocard fans just too cool it..my 2 video cards running at 80% fan is louder than all my rad fans combine..lolz


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


@blue

Wow stock clock??and ur 580 on water too??


yes at stock cpu(cant get into bios on my motherboard unless im using my gtx 260, with the gtx 570 or 580 it does not load bios correctly. The 580 is not watercooled and will never be as its not a reference 580, its the windforce x3 from gigabyte...it was really, really cold in my house this morning(below 58F). i acually had to turn on my heater as my hands were having trouble typing lol


----------



## Havoknova

Lolz..mine range about 50's -60c ++ on my video card and thats not over clock yet..at 75% fan speed.so its loud fan sound just to get that temps..


----------



## Blue Destroyer

I have just a push exhaust setup on my rad using yate loons, would love to see what a push/pull with em would do for my temps. my case is dam near quiet now except for that rattiling pump...at the point where i have looked up other res/pump combos but the good ones are $130...more then i spent on my whole setup lol. Thinking about contacting xspc again about the pump and see if they will send me one more. But first i want to make sure that this is not user error. i have tried shaking, turning over, upside down, and nothing quiets the pump up. gonna try a drop of soap and see if that helps.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Ill put my card on water coz i dont want to mess with high sounding videocard fans just too cool it..my 2 video cards running at 80% fan is louder than all my rad fans combine..lolz


Oh- I also meant to ask. What fittings are you using? I thought they were a bit close for barbs so I want 45Â° compression, 2 for the cpu and 2 for the nb. Thoughts?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ht_addict

Anyone use the GPU water block on an ATI videocard?









How efficient is it? does it come with the memory plates or do you buy those seperate?


----------



## rushino

Anyone know how much time it take for the pump to quiet down ?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


Oh- I also meant to ask. What fittings are you using? I thought they were a bit close for barbs so I want 45Â° compression, 2 for the cpu and 2 for the nb. Thoughts?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I got some bitspower compressions 45* and 90*..replacing my bitspower barbs..btw..there fatter than the stock barbs of the kit..

On the angles its all on u how u want ur angles to go 90* make sure u got the (mandrel designs curve so restrictions will not be that bad)..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


I have just a push exhaust setup on my rad using yate loons, would love to see what a push/pull with em would do for my temps. my case is dam near quiet now except for that rattiling pump...at the point where i have looked up other res/pump combos but the good ones are $130...more then i spent on my whole setup lol. Thinking about contacting xspc again about the pump and see if they will send me one more. But first i want to make sure that this is not user error. i have tried shaking, turning over, upside down, and nothing quiets the pump up. gonna try a drop of soap and see if that helps.


Im so lucky i got the good pump in 1 shot..holy smoke..so that will be ur 2nd pump already and still not quiet..try the soap if it will help..


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Im so lucky i got the good pump in 1 shot..holy smoke..so that will be ur 2nd pump already and still not quiet..try the soap if it will help..


its no big deal really...its quieter then my fans i had in my case...but i did this for lower temps and lower noise....ill let ya know if it works(soap that is)


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Hi there, i think my XSPC X2O 750 pump is very noisy? i have tuned all fans hard drives off etc.

I have removed all the air from my loop also and its been running a couple of weeks

  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Eb4y0ofUiQ


----------



## rushino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


Hi there, i think my XSPC X2O 750 pump is very noisy? i have tuned all fans hard drives off etc.

I have removed all the air from my loop also and its been running a couple of weeks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Eb4y0ofUiQ


Damn another one lol i can't believe it.. ive should have done research before buying the kit.. but well the kit isnt bad actually the only faulty stuff is the pump. I may spend 100$ more on a new pump/res. Will check after a few days what i am about to do but this is rather sad because ive actually spent over 200$ on my first WC kit.


----------



## whiteslashasian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


Hi there, i think my XSPC X2O 750 pump is very noisy? i have tuned all fans hard drives off etc.

I have removed all the air from my loop also and its been running a couple of weeks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Eb4y0ofUiQ


I had to turn my headphone volume WAY up to hear a TINY bit of burbling, with your camera right on top of the pump to boot!

Can you hear it over your system idle? If not, I don't see this being an issue. A pump is always going to make a little bit of noise...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rushino*


Damn another one lol i can't believe it.. ive should have done research before buying the kit.. but well the kit isnt bad actually the only faulty stuff is the pump. I may spend 100$ more on a new pump/res. Will check after a few days what i am about to do but this is rather sad because ive actually spent over 200$ on my first WC kit.


WC'ing generally will run you WELL over $200...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*   Hi there, i think my XSPC X2O 750 pump is very noisy? i have tuned all fans hard drives off etc.

I have removed all the air from my loop also and its been running a couple of weeks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Eb4y0ofUiQ  
 Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*   its no big deal really...its quieter then my fans i had in my case...but i did this for lower temps and lower noise....ill let ya know if it works(soap that is)  
 Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *rushino*   Damn another one lol i can't believe it.. ive should have done research before buying the kit.. but well the kit isnt bad actually the only faulty stuff is the pump. I may spend 100$ more on a new pump/res. Will check after a few days what i am about to do but this is rather sad because ive actually spent over 200$ on my first WC kit.  
fireisdangerous84 I couldn't even here that thing. Guys this is what that bad pumps sound like

  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAlLYHDkr04


----------



## whiteslashasian

^ Exactly GoodInk.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


Hi there, i think my XSPC X2O 750 pump is very noisy? i have tuned all fans hard drives off etc.

I have removed all the air from my loop also and its been running a couple of weeks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Eb4y0ofUiQ


yea, thats not loud, this is mine

http://s1142.photobucket.com/albums/...-33-07_542.mp4

and it acually got louder before i replaced it. this 2nd(replacement) one would sound like that from 4-5 feet away lol


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoodInk*


fireisdangerous84 I couldn't even here that thing. Guys this is what that bad pumps sound like

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAlLYHDkr04


thats what mine sounds like now, just not as loud, close but not that loud..i would shoot that dam thing..

Once i get a new mem card for my phone i will do a new recording, as after listening to my above video, its almost hard to hear...

http://s1142.photobucket.com/albums/...-35-19_510.mp4

that is what mine sound like now, but 4-5 feet away instead of shoving the camera in the pump..


----------



## badatgames18

my pump is completely silent... now i am worried it's not working since everyone says it's suppose to make some noise


----------



## Havoknova

Well my watercooling is about 1000+ after im done..just for fittings will be about around 200 dollors already...


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Well my watercooling is about 1000+ after im done..just for fittings will be about around 200 dollors already...


dam u young whipersnappers and your disposable incomes lol. My whole system...well, now, cost around $2200...but i bought stuff used, traded. so only cost me around $1000(hell my $400 monitor(if bought new) was only $100)


----------



## badatgames18

so.. is it normal for my res/pump to not make any noise? lol i am sort of worried that i did something wrong... i only see slight oscillations in the water very slight.... might it mean that i didn't connect the power to 12v or something?

edit: i hear a faint buzz form the res/pump, but other than that nothing.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badatgames18*


so.. is it normal for my res/pump to not make any noise? lol i am sort of worried that i did something wrong... i only see slight oscillations in the water very slight.... might it mean that i didn't connect the power to 12v or something?

edit: i hear a faint buzz form the res/pump, but other than that nothing.


That is what a good pump is like.


----------



## Havoknova

Well my experience on the pump is different..first fill it has the rattle...

After the loop is full of water pump got small hum on it..straight put soap and never put the cap o the res for the air to come out..note to take out the first big air in the loop u need to open the port for couple of minutes..after that close the port and after that put the case left side and right side....

Well while i did that i got this big loud RATTLE..only if i put the case left side..but if i put it back on the right side i got no hum its gone..

Put more water and open the fill port for couple of minutes..and close it and do the same thing untill no more huge air on the loop...

Hhehe..


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13112561*
> so.. is it normal for my res/pump to not make any noise? lol i am sort of worried that i did something wrong... i only see slight oscillations in the water very slight.... might it mean that i didn't connect the power to 12v or something?
> 
> edit: i hear a faint buzz form the res/pump, but other than that nothing.


I used to think that the pump was pretty loud, until I disconnected my hard drives, then it went dead silent. All this time it was the hard drives making that annoying noise lol. The pump is quieter than hard drives!


----------



## macca_dj

If you are that concerned about a little bit of motor hum !!
Try putting the res/pump on some thin foam feet inside the bay, 
Or just use a bit of thin rag across the bottom of the res and a little bit up the sides in the bay and see if that makes a difference ?

EDIT
Oh and it probably sounds worse than it is because subconsciously / consciously you are trying to hear it ?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *macca_dj*


If you are that concerned about a little bit of motor hum !!
Try putting the res/pump on some thin foam feet inside the bay, 
Or just use a bit of thin rag across the bottom of the res and a little bit up the sides in the bay and see if that makes a difference ?

EDIT
*Oh and it probably sounds worse than it is because subconsciously / consciously you are trying to hear it *?


i would def agree to this part. My pump bay has felt strips on the side and it still sounds the way it does. Like i said, i will at one point, upgrade to a new pump/red but right now, its working awesome, albeit loud(for me) lol


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


dam u young whipersnappers and your disposable incomes lol. My whole system...well, now, cost around $2200...but i bought stuff used, traded. so only cost me around $1000(hell my $400 monitor(if bought new) was only $100)


My rig alone is around 3000 dollors already...so will see..if i need to buy more stuff..but for now ill be taking easy on upgrades coz planing to go to seattle for summer vacation..hehehe


----------



## macca_dj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


i would def agree to this part. My pump bay has felt strips on the side and it still sounds the way it does. Like i said, i will at one point, upgrade to a new pump/red but right now, its working awesome, albeit loud(for me) lol


Has your case got anything for the res to sit on ( foam / padding ) ?
Also have you screwed it in to your case and made sure its not the case attenuating the noise level !!

If you have screwed it in try removing the screws or losening them off a bit,


----------



## RonB94GT

Think I am finally going to get my order in this week. 2 questions is the right size tubing and how much do I need? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82...html?tl=g30c99. Do all dyes eventually clog up? Anything safe?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Think I am finally going to get my order in this week. 2 questions is the right size tubing and how much do I need? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82...html?tl=g30c99. Do all dyes eventually clog up? Anything safe?


Tubing can be the stock size ID 7/16 or u can go bigger ID 1/2 and OD 3/4...

Well on the dye part...dont get 1 it will clog up ur loop and it will bot be a great result ull be ending up cleaning the parts that clog and take you alot of time clean it up...

So just go with distilled water and a strip of kill coil or 1 to 2 drops of PT NUKE..







and ull be set

Have fun


----------



## Fuddy

Finally done, got everything in today, took about an hour to setup... here are the pics
I started taking pics, then just got into building this thing and just set it up


----------



## wetfit9

HI,
My kit was running nice and quiet and now it is really quiet, it is not working any more. Waiting on reply from the customer service now. What a drag


----------



## wetfit9

What I feared would happen, happen, to keep from having to go down on my system, I would like to install a second pump/res in the loop as a back up. Any one have a suggestion on one. I would like to buy asap so when I get the replacement in, I can install both. It does not have to be a all in one. I may as well get the second rad(120mm) at the same time. Should I get a single 120 or a thick 120mm. It has to be a 120 to fit on the rear exhaust.


----------



## rushino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


HI,
My kit was running nice and quiet and now it is really quiet, it is not working any more. Waiting on reply from the customer service now. What a drag


I am a bit afraid that this might also happen pretty soon in a near future apart from the noise...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


Finally done, got everything in today, took about an hour to setup... here are the pics
I started taking pics, then just got into building this thing and just set it up



































holy smokes pretty cool...

just an insight on ur loop...why ur tube coming from the res to the rad is kinda long??


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


HI,
My kit was running nice and quiet and now it is really quiet, it is not working any more. Waiting on reply from the customer service now. What a drag


wow ...damn i thought u got the pump thats not rattling..but when i start ready ur post more im like wth....

so what happen man???just quit on u or u think got burn out???


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


holy smokes pretty cool...

just an insight on ur loop...why ur tube coming from the res to the rad is kinda long??


kinda measured wrong


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


What I feared would happen, happen, to keep from having to go down on my system, I would like to install a second pump/res in the loop as a back up. Any one have a suggestion on one. I would like to buy asap so when I get the replacement in, I can install both. It does not have to be a all in one. I may as well get the second rad(120mm) at the same time. Should I get a single 120 or a thick 120mm. It has to be a 120 to fit on the rear exhaust.


depends what ur back exhaust will handle (space wise from the board and top)...

ill gow ith the slim 1 its more good looking....the fat 1 (rx) is kinda bulky at the back and doesnt look good for me seeing a fatty rad in blocking the view of my MB...just my opinion =)


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


depends what ur back exhaust will handle (space wise from the board and top)...

ill gow ith the slim 1 its more good looking....the fat 1 (rx) is kinda bulky at the back and doesnt look good for me seeing a fatty rad in blocking the view of my MB...just my opinion =)


Thanks, I was thinking the same thing.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


kinda measured wrong










well are u planing to change ur tube soon or are u goin to go with the tube u got for a while??/

the reason i ask is bcoz if ur not goin to change it...drain the water and cut it..hehehe so ill look more AWESOME . hehehe


----------



## wetfit9

so what happen man???just quit on u or u think got burn out???[/QUOTE]

Man, I don't know. I got a high pitch sound, I thought it was one of video cards going bad, pulled them both and it was not them. Put them back in and 20 seconds later, no pump. CPU temps at idle 44, I had to go back to default and hopefully it will whole on until I can get another in, only want to do this once.

Any suggestions on a back up pump/res to through in the loop when i get the replacement in. I plan to add a second res(slim 120 for the rear). Then the only thing I will have to add will be the gpu blocks. Can't afford them right now.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


so what happen man???just quit on u or u think got burn out???


Man, I don't know. I got a high pitch sound, I thought it was one of video cards going bad, pulled them both and it was not them. Put them back in and 20 seconds later, no pump. CPU temps at idle 44, I had to go back to default and hopefully it will whole on until I can get another in, only want to do this once.

Any suggestions on a back up pump/res to through in the loop when i get the replacement in. I plan to add a second res(slim 120 for the rear). Then the only thing I will have to add will be the gpu blocks. Can't afford them right now.[/QUOTE]

wow that sucks....well for now u got any type of air cooler on the side???just use that for now till u get a replacement....try to send email to xspc on the rma section ont he site....dont know how coz i never did an rma on xspc yet....if ur goin to go buy 1 res/pump combo might as well just buy u a stand alone res and buy u a pump...if im goin to get me a new res and pump ill just go with separate ones...no more all in 1 type of res/pump...


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Tubing can be the stock size ID 7/16 or u can go bigger ID 1/2 and OD 3/4...

Well on the dye part...dont get 1 it will clog up ur loop and it will bot be a great result ull be ending up cleaning the parts that clog and take you alot of time clean it up...

So just go with distilled water and a strip of kill coil or 1 to 2 drops of PT NUKE..







and ull be set

Have fun










Thanks


----------



## RonB94GT

So I saw a couple of short vids of leak testing. Out of case one had super short tubes one extra long. Are you just testing the fittings?


----------



## Fuddy

just ran furmark and my temps were as follows on the GPU's...

idle: 35c and 38c
full load: 51c and 54c

rad fans @ 780rpm


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


well are u planing to change ur tube soon or are u goin to go with the tube u got for a while??/

the reason i ask is bcoz if ur not goin to change it...drain the water and cut it..hehehe so ill look more AWESOME . hehehe


I'll probably wait until they start to discolor







then get some nice white ones


----------



## wetfit9

Or should I just upgrade the pump and res to something that can handle a loop with 3 blocks? Suggestions?


----------



## wetfit9

Thoughts


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13116467*
> Or should I just upgrade the pump and res to something that can handle a loop with 3 blocks? Suggestions?


the kit pump can handle 3 blocks.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13116949*
> the kit pump can handle 3 blocks.


Thanks, what about the addition of a single 120mm radiator. Cause if it can handle that I will just wait on my replacement and pick up a radiator and one water block for my gpu.


----------



## Havoknova

Ill be redoin my loop next week...3 blocks and 2 rads...ill tell u if the pump will handle it..just get a replacement on ur dead pump for now at xspc..


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13117632*
> Ill be redoin my loop next week...3 blocks and 2 rads...ill tell u if the pump will handle it..just get a replacement on ur dead pump for now at xspc..


Thanks. I await your testing
No spare air cooler, just put my other one on my daughter computer. I am going to leave things as there r 4 now. Waiting to here from them. I sent an email 2 hours ago. My temps are high at stock but not to crazy so no gaming until replacement gets in. CPU 45 @idle


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Annd, I pulled the tigger. I swear, its getting easier to spend my paychecks.


----------



## mbudden




----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


Annd, I pulled the tigger. I swear, its getting easier to spend my paychecks.











Are u sure ur using OD 5/8 bro??not OD 3/4???

Just checkin...coz it will not be snug if u got a ID 1/2 and OD 3/4 tubing...

Hopefully you got a ID 1/2 and OD 5/8 tubing..


----------



## masustic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Thanks, what about the addition of a single 120mm radiator. Cause if it can handle that I will just wait on my replacement and pick up a radiator and one water block for my gpu.


Mine pumps through cpu/gpu/gpu/360 rad and120 rad. works good. you can tell flow is not what it was originally but seems to be enough. keeps everything cool thats all i care about.


----------



## macca_dj

Just a Quick Question about Flow Direction and the optimal setup for cooling efficiency,

From the Pump do you go to the block first or the Rad ?

Res/Pump > Cpu Block > Rad > Back to Res/Pump

Res/Pump > Rad > Cpu Block > Back to Res/Pump

Out of the two choices which one would give the best cooling ?

And has anyone benched both with Temp differences between the two ?


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *masustic*


Mine pumps through cpu/gpu/gpu/360 rad and120 rad. works good. you can tell flow is not what it was originally but seems to be enough. keeps everything cool thats all i care about.


Thanks, now I just have to get a new pump in. Still no answer from them.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *macca_dj*


Just a Quick Question about Flow Direction and the optimal setup for cooling efficiency,

From the Pump do you go to the block first or the Rad ?

Res/Pump > Cpu Block > Rad > Back to Res/Pump

Res/Pump > Rad > Cpu Block > Back to Res/Pump

Out of the two choices which one would give the best cooling ?

And has anyone benched both with Temp differences between the two ?


For just the cpu basic cooling it actually doesnt matter...if you think about it..

But if you want the best benefit of the cold water the rad produce then go rad first so it will directly dump cold water straight to ur cpu... Just my opinion


----------



## Havoknova

Well thinking about redoin the loop but while im looking at the case last night i said it wont fit what im goin to do to my loop..i decided to disassemble the whole case and cut and dice some original parts and a little bit of hackin and repositioning of the cages and bays..and the side door will be replace by a acrylic window...hehhe..so will see what happen... It will be a lot of work but i think it will be hardcorely badazz...


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Are u sure ur using OD 5/8 bro??not OD 3/4???

Just checkin...coz it will not be snug if u got a ID 1/2 and OD 3/4 tubing...

Hopefully you got a ID 7/16 and OD 5/8 tubing..










Yessir. The tube i ordered was 1/2 ID, 5/8 OD red primochill

Thanks for checkin

Is it just me or does performance pcs have really good cs? An email with every step of processing. Just awesome.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## staryoshi

Thinking about ordering the RS240 kit... I've never built a custom loop though. What other accessories will I need? (Save me the effort of searching, I'm supposed to be working







)


----------



## Dissentience

Better tubing and TIM. That's about it.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Better tubing and TIM. That's about it.


I've got TIM to spare... Is the tubing too narrow or something? Also, is liquid included?


----------



## Dissentience

The tubing is bad quality and will cloud up then turn brown in a matter of weeks to months. Use plain distilled water and I forgot to mention, get some stuff called PT Nuke PHN, put a few drops of it in your res after filling the loop with distilled water. It will stop algae and the like from growing in your loop.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;13126127*
> The tubing is bad quality and will cloud up then turn brown in a matter of weeks to months. Use plain distilled water and I forgot to mention, get some stuff called PT Nuke PHN, put a few drops of it in your res after filling the loop with distilled water. It will stop algae and the like from growing in your loop.


Thanks for the tips. It looks like Frozen CPU has included a free IandH killcoil with purchase of the kit. Advice regarding which liquid and tubing to purchase would be appreciated







Clear, white, and orange are my color preferences.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;13126511*
> Thanks for the tips. It looks like Frozen CPU has included a free IandH killcoil with purchase of the kit. Advice regarding which liquid and tubing to purchase would be appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clear, white, and orange are my color preferences.


Really any tubing you buy from frozencpu will be good.
I would highly recommend primochill though, they have really good tubing.
feser is good too, but primochill is a bit better.


----------



## masustic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;13126511*
> Thanks for the tips. It looks like Frozen CPU has included a free IandH killcoil with purchase of the kit. Advice regarding which liquid and tubing to purchase would be appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clear, white, and orange are my color preferences.


Just use distilled water with your killcoil and get some of this


----------



## wetfit9

Anyone know the contact information for the rasa kit. I am waiting on answers. Some stated here a while ago they were fast. Please provide with the information please.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Update on my rig. Just added my gpu's to the loop. Idle CPU 34-38 C and GPU 31 C. Load/gaming CPU 54-56C and GPU 38-40C. Overall I'm thrilled with the results. CPU is stock atm though. Will be OC'ing again in the near future.


----------



## staryoshi

I'm eyeballing this tubing: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8275/ex-tub-432/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Clear.html

About how many feet should I get for a simple CPU loop in a 690 II ADV with the res/pump 5.25" baymounted?

Also, in terms of coolant... Will straight up distilled water do the trick if I decide not to use some colored liquid?

Sorry for the n00b questions, I'm apprehensive about full-on WC because I'll probably bork something


----------



## masustic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;13127468*
> I'm eyeballing this tubing: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8275/ex-tub-432/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Clear.html
> 
> About how many feet should I get for a simple CPU loop in a 690 II ADV with the res/pump 5.25" baymounted?
> 
> Also, in terms of coolant... Will straight up distilled water do the trick if I decide not to use some colored liquid?
> 
> Sorry for the n00b questions, I'm apprehensive about full-on WC because I'll probably bork something


You will only need a few feet probly but better safe than sorry. Colored liquid tends to gunk up your blocks over time. thats why most people here will tell you distilled water. I think the kit comes with about 6 feet of tube but i had quite a bit left over after my first cpu loop.


----------



## staryoshi

Thanks Mas. Do additives such as this have that gunking effect as well?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6544/ex-liq-68/PrimoChill_Dye_Bomb_-_Gold.html?tl=g30c103

I have yet to determine a color scheme.







Clear is my stand-by though.


----------



## MURDoctrine

All colored additives have the possibility to gunk up a block. You have to maintain your loop at a more regular basis if you do use colored fluids and dyes. But as far as your amount of tubing goes. I would recommend atleast 5-6 ft. You can buy a 10 ft loop of primochill tubing from amazon for like $16.50. Cheapest I've found it.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine;13127674*
> All colored additives have the possibility to gunk up a block. You have to maintain your loop at a more regular basis if you do use colored fluids and dyes. But as far as your amount of tubing goes. I would recommend atleast 5-6 ft. You can buy a 10 ft loop of primochill tubing from amazon for like $16.50. Cheapest I've found it.


Thanks. I prefer using Amazon, too







I suppose I'd go for straight up distilled water.


----------



## eggdrop

Just got my 240mm kit in the mail today. I am currently installing to do my 24hr leak test. I am using a CM 690 II Adv. and was wondering how do I set up the fans on the rad? I am thinking about setting up on the top of the case. I am not sure I understand the push/ pull thing. It came with one set of fans that I will most likely be upgrading. I would also like them to match my black and green setup. Any suggestions?


----------



## Fuddy

my setup has been running for 24hrs no problem







pump was loud for a little bit but calmed down, i'm assuming because of air in the system. One little thing I found interesting, I bought a 3rd monitor today and my vid cards are even cooler. Seems the third monitor causes the cards to clock down to the same core speed when before one would be higher than the other.


----------



## wetfit9

Any recommendations on gpu blocks of reference 580's.


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13128098*
> Any recommendations on gpu blocks of reference 580's.


XSPC Razors

http://www.svc.com/rzr580.html


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;13127705*
> Thanks. I prefer using Amazon, too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I supposed I'd go for straight up distilled water.


Just make sure you get a silver kill coil or pt nuke to add to the distilled water.


----------



## masustic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;13128120*
> XSPC Razors
> 
> http://www.svc.com/rzr580.html


These^


----------



## wetfit9

Part #*Product DescriptionQtyPriceTotal
ex-blc-852

EK GeForce 570 / 580 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal (EK-FC580 GTX+ Acetal) Hot Item!$102.95$205.90
ex-rad-80

Black Ice GT Stealth 120 Radiator - Black

Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 3/8" ID Barb - Black ($6.50)
$53.45$53.45
ex-blc-782

EK FC Link Blank - Parallel (EK-FC Link Blank Parallel)$13.50$13.50
Subtotal:$272.85

Is there anything else I need before I order tomorrow


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;13128120*
> XSPC Razors
> 
> http://www.svc.com/rzr580.html


not in stock


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masustic;13128230*
> These^


Which ones and if you are talking about the expc ones, are they any good.


----------



## masustic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13128820*
> Which ones and if you are talking about the expc ones, are they any good.


The razors and they are very good. I used the ek blocks in my loop and i like them. I have saw some reviews showing the razors with lower temps though.My acetal+nickle blocks look awesome too and the razors only come in copper. I think both XSPC and EK make really good blocks. Im sure you will be happy with the EK's


----------



## staryoshi

I can only imagine how cool this setup would run under water... Only hitting 54C (21C ambient) doing SMP Folding @ 4.2Ghz on my i5 2500k using this Hyper 212+.

I'm torn between using my Zalman CNSPX10-Flex, Corsair H50, or going full-on WC (Or something in between).

Just for my reference, I should be ready to go if I order this:









It includes the KillCoil and fluid.


----------



## Havoknova

old stock case....










after the slice and dice....




























what you guys think???more space now hehehe


----------



## masustic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;13128983*
> I can only imagine how cool this setup would run under water... Only hitting 54C (21C ambient) doing SMP Folding @ 4.2Ghz on my i5 2500k using this Hyper 212+.
> 
> I'm torn between using my Zalman CNSPX10-Flex, Corsair H50, or going full-on WC (Or something in between).
> 
> Just for my reference, I should be ready to go if I order this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It includes the KillCoil and fluid.


Looks Good man


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;13113240*
> I used to think that the pump was pretty loud, until I disconnected my hard drives, then it went dead silent. All this time it was the hard drives making that annoying noise lol. The pump is quieter than hard drives!


get a SSD and solver the problem


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13128098*
> Any recommendations on gpu blocks of reference 580's.


It is my opinion that going with almost any FULL water-block will give you good results. For my GTX 465 I went with an EK 470 block and it is great!


----------



## Jobotoo

I seem to have the opposite problem as some if you with you pump. Mine doesn't make any sound at all, and I wish it would at least make a little so I know it's on.


----------



## rushino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13129640*
> I seem to have the opposite problem as some if you with you pump. Mine doesn't make any sound at all, and I wish it would at least make a little so I know it's on.


Then your lucky lol


----------



## [Adz]

It's me again. I assembled my loop today








A few questions though.

1) The res and pump are covered in tiny pockets of air. There are literally hundreds of them. How do I bleed them out?

2) The res has a fairly large air pocket in the top left, but the water under the top right where the fillport is, is full. Any more water and it'll overflow

3) My pump sounds like really old HDD seeking. Is that normal?

Thanks.

Posted via Overclock.net Mobile RC1


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


It's me again. I assembled my loop today








A few questions though.

1) The res and pump are covered in tiny pockets of air. There are literally hundreds of them. How do I bleed them out?

2) The res has a fairly large air pocket in the top left, but the water under the top right where the fillport is, is full. Any more water and it'll overflow

3) My pump sounds like really old HDD seeking. Is that normal?

Thanks.

Posted via Overclock.net Mobile RC1



Shake it or run it on side and top with the cap on and that can dislodge any big bubbles the small ones will go away in a few days of running your loop.


----------



## wetfit9

*Part # Product Description Qty Price Total
ex-rad-80 
Black Ice GT Stealth 120 Radiator - Black

Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb ($5.90)

$52.85 $52.85
ex-blc-851 
EK GeForce 570 / 580 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acrylic (EK-FC580 GTX+) Hot Item!

Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb ($5.90)

$102.85 $205.70
ex-blc-758 
EK FC Bridge Triple Parallel - SLI Connection (EK-FC Bridge Triple Parallel)

Select a 3 Pack of Link Connectors: Link R48X0/58X0 x 3 ($40.50)
Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb ($5.90)

$71.39 $71.39
Subtotal: $329.94
*

Hi, heard back about my pump/res they are sending me out a new one, don't know when as I have not heard any shipping information, but at least they say they were going to ship it. 
Changing my colors on the tubing. I order some black with some green anti kink to do my tubing in. 
I plan to order 6 cooler master R4 green 120mm fans for my 360 rad and use the ones i got for the new 120mm rad I plan to mount on the rear exhaust.

*The question I have, is there anything I am missing off the list before I order so that I can install and finish my loop in a day. Don't want to have to wait on more parts to finish it as my computer cannot be down as the wife use it for school also. I really need to get her a laptop. *

Also, I plan on doing loop order in res/pump to rad(360) to cpu to rad(120) to gpu blocks back to res/pump.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*


Just make sure you get a silver kill coil or pt nuke to add to the distilled water.


Doesn't pt nuke actually void some warranties?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


I seem to have the opposite problem as some if you with you pump. Mine doesn't make any sound at all, and I wish it would at least make a little so I know it's on.


haha, I thought the same thing when I got mine. I actually pinched the tube a little just so I could hear the pump


----------



## CalypsoRaz

ugh.. double post

I wish I could delete my accidental double posts before anyone noticed that I was a tard.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


Shake it or run it on side and top with the cap on and that can dislodge any big bubbles the small ones will go away in a few days of running your loop.


I've been shaking it quite aggressively to be honest :s


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


I've been shaking it quite aggressively to be honest :s


the last time I changed my tubing, I connected another psu to the pump so it could run while I picked my tower up and shook the ever-loving piss out of it. Actually holding it upside down to allow the air to rise to the in/out of the rad.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Ok if I put my pump on it's side it sucks air into the tubing.....


----------



## Crabby654

When I set my kit up, I did it a bit of a weird way, or at least I thought it was weird. I measured how much tubing I needed outside of the case and cut it and what not. I set it up out of the case. And to get all (or most) of the air of the system, I just let it run while outside of the case and tiled the rad upside down and shook it a bit to make sure all the air came out. The little tiny air bubbles actually went away and up to the rad after running for 8 hours, and I once again tilted the rad upside down to get the air bubbles to shoot down to the res. Then I just kept filling it!

Although it was a bit awkward installing the system pre-setup, took me and my brother to do it.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


the last time I changed my tubing, I connected another psu to the pump so it could run while I picked my tower up and shook the ever-loving piss out of it. Actually holding it upside down to allow the air to rise to the in/out of the rad.


I might just end up doing that. I tried it last night but I was a little nervous because it's so heavy with all the water in there.

But for now, I have a bigger problem. I'm pretty sure my reservoir is leaking. The pipes and fittings are dry, but I've got water on the right hand side of the res, running down the side of the drive bay.


----------



## Fuddy

that blows

I was lucky with mine, just popped it in and ran it right away. Didn't even leak test it


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;13128983*
> I can only imagine how cool this setup would run under water... Only hitting 54C (21C ambient) doing SMP Folding @ 4.2Ghz on my i5 2500k using this Hyper 212+.
> 
> I'm torn between using my Zalman CNSPX10-Flex, Corsair H50, or going full-on WC (Or something in between).
> 
> Just for my reference, I should be ready to go if I order this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It includes the KillCoil and fluid.


I don't think it includes the fluid... it looks like you'd still pay $8 for a bottle of water.

If things go according to plan, I may be buying a RS240 or 360 kit in a month or two and putting it in a modded Dell microATX case.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13133536*
> Doesn't pt nuke actually void some warranties?


I think that is just EK if I remember right. Probably the nickel problem they have been having.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;13137354*
> I don't think it includes the fluid... it looks like you'd still pay $8 for a bottle of water.
> 
> If things go according to plan, I may be buying a RS240 or 360 kit in a month or two and putting it in a modded Dell microATX case.


The distilled water is included in the quote


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;13139411*
> The distilled water is included in the quote


Yeah, I saw that, but just wanted to make sure you knew the water will cost you. Since it's less than a dollar at most grocery stores I just thought I'd point it out. No big deal, though. Good luck with the build.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;13139790*
> Yeah, I saw that, but just wanted to make sure you knew the water will cost you. Since it's less than a dollar at most grocery stores I just thought I'd point it out. No big deal, though. Good luck with the build.


Yep, I am aware of the price difference









I think that I'm going to hold off on such a build for a while though. This Hyper 212+ is a beast. I could always break out the H50 too







I should really contact Zalman about a replacement mounting bracket for my Flex cooler...


----------



## Havoknova

Tonight ill be redoin my loop..(crossfingers)everything drilled,sliced,prep..hopefully everything work out fine....


----------



## mbudden

Argh! I have yet to have time to get the OP updated. I feel so bad








I should have it updated tonight for sure.


----------



## wetfit9

ex-blc-753
EK FC Link GeForce - SLI Connection (EK-FC Link GeForce)
2
$13.50
$27.00
ex-rad-80
Black Ice GT Stealth 120 Radiator - Black

Selected Options

Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb ($5.90)

1
$52.85
$52.85
ex-blc-852
EK GeForce 570 / 580 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal (EK-FC580 GTX+ Acetal) Hot Item!

Selected Options

Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb ($5.90)

2
$108.85
$217.70
ex-blc-825
EK FC Bridge Dual Serial - 3-Slot - SLI Connection (EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial 3 -Slot)

Just placed my order for everything I need to cool my two 580's. If my wife fine out she will kill me, here's to hoping she don't.
Once my new pump/res get in, I plan to take a day to put everything together one last time. Hopefully nothing breaks this time around and I will be able to enjoy my system. Day off today and I can't even game, I guess I will go do some yard work. :-(


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


ex-blc-753
EK FC Link GeForce - SLI Connection (EK-FC Link GeForce)
2
$13.50
$27.00
ex-rad-80
Black Ice GT Stealth 120 Radiator - Black

Selected Options

Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb ($5.90)

1
$52.85
$52.85
ex-blc-852
EK GeForce 570 / 580 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal (EK-FC580 GTX+ Acetal) Hot Item!

Selected Options

Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb ($5.90)

2
$108.85
$217.70
ex-blc-825
EK FC Bridge Dual Serial - 3-Slot - SLI Connection (EK-FC Bridge DUAL Serial 3 -Slot)

Just placed my order for everything I need to cool my two 580's. If my wife fine out she will kill me, here's to hoping she don't. 
Once my new pump/res get in, I plan to take a day to put everything together one last time. Hopefully nothing breaks this time around and I will be able to enjoy my system. Day off today and I can't even game, I guess I will go do some yard work. :-(


Wahahaha you will be hiding those stuff..lolz..and btw theres no last stuff..its just the beginning wahahah


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Wahahaha you will be hiding those stuff..lolz..and btw theres no last stuff..*its just the beginning* wahahah


How true that is.


----------



## wetfit9

It look that way as I was not even thinking about water cooler a month ago and now here I am. Crap, what have I got myself into.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


It look that way as I was not even thinking about water cooler a month ago and now here I am. Crap, what have I got myself into.


haha you've got yourself into some good performance.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


haha you've got yourself into some good performance.


I never thought about overclocking my video cards because they are pretty warm, but putting them on water, I am at least going to clock them at the SC model number. 
See there I go, next I will be wanting to do something else, I am to put this car in park. I am looking forward to getting all together. I got six cooler master R4 Green coming in, my black tubing and heading to the garage in a minute to work on putting my green led's in my fan controller. Now it will just have to fine the best way to set up my loop for the best cooling on all. I am thinking: res/pump to 360 rad to 120 rad to cpu to gpu's to ras/pump, thoughts/suggestions on that. I think I may have asked that question before.


----------



## stuiees

What do you guys think?

Right now I have the xspc 750 rasa w/ rs240 rad. Currently only my CPU is in the loop. I am planning to get a GTX 590 hydro copper next week when they come back in stock. Do you guys think I need/should add another 240 rad? Right now I only have a pull set up on my rs240 because of space limitations, and if I add another 240 rad to the loop I will only be able to run pull on 1 of the rads (max) maybe no fans if I dont want to mod my case further, the other 240 wont be able to fit any fans on it.

So either keep my single 240 with pull set up.

or

Dual 240 rad's with no push and no pull. (able to set up pull on 1 of the rads with case mods)

Do you think it is worth adding another 240 rad to my loop when adding a GPU or just keep the single 240 with the pull set up.

Right now my CPU will max at 60C under full load at 4.5GHz @ 1.335v


----------



## bennieboi6969

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13141902*
> I never thought about overclocking my video cards because they are pretty warm, but putting them on water, I am at least going to clock them at the SC model number.
> See there I go, next I will be wanting to do something else, I am to put this car in park. I am looking forward to getting all together. I got six cooler master R4 Green coming in, my black tubing and heading to the garage in a minute to work on putting my green led's in my fan controller. Now it will just have to fine the best way to set up my loop for the best cooling on all. I am thinking: res/pump to 360 rad to 120 rad to cpu to gpu's to ras/pump, thoughts/suggestions on that. I think I may have asked that question before.


mayb if u go 360 rad cpu then 120 to gpus back to res would have a change in temps for the gpus


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969*


mayb if u go 360 rad cpu then 120 to gpus back to res would have a change in temps for the gpus


I completely agree. Go res to 360 rad to cpu to 120 rad to GPUs.


----------



## AusPC

Hey Guys, Was just wondering if you could open up the Rasa 750 Pump/Res? Just want the Res part of it.

Thanks for any help provided.

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I completely agree. Go res to 360 rad to cpu to 120 rad to GPUs.


Thanks to oth you guys. Res-360-CPU-120-gpu's-res


----------



## masustic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Thanks to oth you guys. Res-360-CPU-120-gpu's-res


That is how mine goes and that is the way temps were best.Seems to help by cooling the water a bit before it hits your gpu's.


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AusPC*


Hey Guys, Was just wondering if you could open up the Rasa 750 Pump/Res? Just want the Res part of it.

Thanks for any help provided.

Cheers - Jason.


I'm pretty sure it's sealed, although I don't know how. Why do you ask though?


----------



## Redwing3139

What size of fittings does is everyone using/recommend for the RX360?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Redwing3139*


What size of fittings does is everyone using/recommend for the RX360?


The kit comes with G1/4" to 1/2" barbs.


----------



## Havoknova

damn i didnt finish the rig tonight...just doin the wire management kills already hehehe...

well tomorrow ill finish the rig for sure....time to rest my back hurts lolz


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


damn i didnt finish the rig tonight...just doin the wire management kills already hehehe...

well tomorrow ill finish the rig for sure....time to rest my back hurts lolz


Sorry to here that. It is better to do it right and not rush anyway.


----------



## badatgames18

what happens if you don't use the o-rings? i've been running about a month and a half without them on accident... i forgot to install them


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13146141*
> what happens if you don't use the o-rings? i've been running about a month and a half without them on accident... i forgot to install them


As long as you are not leaking you are fine! I am running mine without the O rings on accident as well... I am actually using them as anti-vibration mounts for my radiator


----------



## MURDoctrine

my o-rings came pre-installed on my barbs. I did have what appeared to be some radiator stand offs WITH anti vibration rings...







:wth:


----------



## wermad

risky to not run o-rings, they are worth piece of mind even if you have not had a leak. Most of the aftermarket fittings from the big players have the o-rings preinstalled.


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm 2 weeks until I get my compression fittings and new 1/2 inch ID tubing! And painting the inside of my HAF932 black! I am excited!!

I am debating tho, I'm not sure if I want to buy red tubing or red UV dye, any opinions on what might look better or what might be safer?


----------



## wermad

UV red dye looks pink







, plus running dye is a headache, you'll get this a lot. I would know, I ran it for months, its just a mess. Get colored tube instead.

btw, be careful, uv tube may also have a different color in person and when the uv lights are off. I know that for sutre w/ Primochill UV red tube, looks orange and under uv looks fusia/orange.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13148138*
> UV red dye looks pink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , plus running dye is a headache, you'll get this a lot. I would know, I ran it for months, its just a mess. Get colored tube instead.
> 
> btw, be careful, uv tube may also have a different color in person and when the uv lights are off. I know that for sutre w/ Primochill UV red tube, looks orange and under uv looks fusia/orange.


Ooh alright, well thank you for the input! Red tubing it is


----------



## Havoknova

Hmmm i put my fans on my rad and everytime i turn it on it has this "ennnnggg sound"

But if i take it out from the rad and run it theres no sound at all..its kinda odd..u think its vibration???if yes what conventional stuff i can use to dampen the vibration sound??


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Hmmm i put my fans on my rad and everytime i turn it on it has this "ennnnggg sound"

But if i take it out from the rad and run it theres no sound at all..its kinda odd..u think its vibration???if yes what conventional stuff i can use to dampen the vibration sound??


These maybe? http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/...ers-Page1.html
or make something similar.


----------



## mbudden

Updated the members.
188 members. So close to 200.








Sorry it took so long. If you don't see yourself added, tell me.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Well look at what I just got!







I'll probably install it tomorrow or monday. My girlfriend would kill me if I spent the afternoon with my computer


----------



## Havoknova

wow nice block heheheh....

goin to post some pix later for the update of my rig...

omg its so black and blue O_O =)


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


wow nice block heheheh....

goin to post some pix later for the update of my rig...

omg its so black and blue O_O =)


hmm i want to see that one, was thinking of going black and blue, but i dnt have the time to fiddle with my computer lately...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


hmm i want to see that one, was thinking of going black and blue, but i dnt have the time to fiddle with my computer lately...


well black tubing blue led and uv light..hehehe thats y its black and blue..


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


well black tubing blue led and uv light..hehehe thats y its black and blue..


Black, Purple and Blue


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


wow nice block heheheh....


Thanks, sir. Were you still able to use the top pci slot? Better yet, do you have any pics of the block installed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


goin to post some pix later for the update of my rig...

omg its so black and blue O_O =)


Sounds ba dude.









Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## [Adz]

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *AusPC*   Hey Guys, Was just wondering if you could open up the Rasa 750 Pump/Res? Just want the Res part of it.

Thanks for any help provided.

Cheers - Jason.  
Nope. The reservoir is sealed, so you can't remove the pump from it.

Ironically, I'm about to show you a video of my pump/res which isn't as well sealed as it should be:
  
 You Tube


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


Thanks, sir. Were you still able to use the top pci slot? Better yet, do you have any pics of the block installed

Sounds ba dude.









Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


heres the board with the block =)btw i just put my 6870 on the first slot and no problem fitting it right now....


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Black, Purple and Blue










mbudden...ill post some pix later so get ready to update my pix =) heheh


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


heres the board with the block =)btw i just put my 6870 on the first slot and no problem fitting it right now....


Awesome haha. For some reason i thought the second port was lower. Thanks for being so helpful, Havok

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Havoknova

old setup










new 1 =)


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13156924*


That looks like it weighs a ton!


----------



## Crabby654

Noob question #138972 by me!

Something I was curious about, how do tubes kink up or twist after awhile? This is something that confused me because I noticed people buy and use anti-kink wires I think that are wrapped around the tubing. I just don't understand how tubes can twist or kink after awhile.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


That looks like it weighs a ton!


Yup i can barely carry it by myself..its so heavy my table bend a little bit lolz..


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Noob question #138972 by me!

Something I was curious about, how do tubes kink up or twist after awhile? This is something that confused me because I noticed people buy and use anti-kink wires I think that are wrapped around the tubing. I just don't understand how tubes can twist or kink after awhile.


If you twist the tubing while connecting the ends or bend the tubing too sharp or into the opposite curve that the tubing has been shaped from being in a roll, the tubing may kink or start to collapse. You can use hot water to shape the tubing or make it straight, or make a curve into is also. I personally check for collapsing or kinks when I'm installing tubing by trial fitting spare tubing to see how it reacts. I always start with a longer piece (about 1-1.5 inches) and then reduce it to get the correct shape needed without kinking the tubing.


----------



## RonB94GT

Going to order tonight. If by chance I get a loud pump who handles that? XSPC or the reseller? Reason I'm asking is you guys seem to have good luck with getting replacements. I'm probably ordering from Performance PCs. haven't really saw ant feedback on their customer service in here.


----------



## GoodInk

XSPC will handle it.


----------



## Yokes29

Quick questions regarding temperatures and the RX360. Didn't wanna start another thread.
* Some info: wanna top mount a 360 rad in my 800D to cool my i7 (3.8ghz @1.25vcore) & motherboard

1. I have 3 GT AP-15's and i read push is a better option for the RX360. If i put the fans to pull instead would temps increase by quite a bit? am i gonna see a significant temp increase?

Thanks, 
I know its a crazy noob question but i would appreciate the help.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yokes29*


Quick questions regarding temperatures and the RX360. Didn't wanna start another thread.
* Some info: wanna top mount a 360 rad in my 800D to cool my i7 (3.8ghz @1.25vcore) & motherboard

1. I have 3 GT AP-15's and i read push is a better option for the RX360. If i put the fans to pull instead would temps increase by quite a bit? am i gonna see a significant temp increase?

Thanks, 
I know its a crazy noob question but i would appreciate the help.


ok lang kahit ano setup mo...

anything will be good...but push is preferable for it...just go push pull if u can..but either way its still good...


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


ok lang kahit ano setup mo...

anything will be good...but push is preferable for it...just go push pull if u can..but either way its still good...


***? you're from philly? =D same here


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


***? you're from philly? =D same here










wahahahah yup lolz.....musta na??wakakkabut im here at florida right now


----------



## Yokes29

Ah pinoy's!! Kumusta!
I'll definatly go push/pull but the fans are always sold-out. Oh well push for now then.
Salamat!!


----------



## MorbEIn

hehe ok lang









AP-15's right? Local shop close to where I live always has them in stock ^_^ Never runs out







i have like 12 of them now, and they still have like 50+ in stock...









It's a small privately owned computer shop, not really well known, i guess thats the reason why they have a lot of AP-15's...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yokes29*


Ah pinoy's!! Kumusta!
I'll definatly go push/pull but the fans are always sold-out. Oh well push for now then.
Salamat!!


yea push will be good....good luck..


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yokes29*


Ah pinoy's!! Kumusta!
I'll definatly go push/pull but the fans are always sold-out. Oh well push for now then.
Salamat!!


If you cant do a push/pull setup due to lack of fans, go for push with fan shrouds ^_^


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MorbEIn*


hehe ok lang









AP-15's right? Local shop close to where I live always has them in stock ^_^ Never runs out







i have like 12 of them now, and they still have like 50+ in stock...









It's a small privately owned computer shop, not really well known, i guess thats the reason why they have a lot of AP-15's...


can u buy some for me please =) hehehe


----------



## Yokes29

Awesome thanks guys! 
+1 reps


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yokes29*


Awesome thanks guys! 
+1 reps










salamat =)


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;13162763*
> Going to order tonight. If by chance I get a loud pump who handles that? XSPC or the reseller? Reason I'm asking is you guys seem to have good luck with getting replacements. I'm probably ordering from Performance PCs. haven't really saw ant feedback on their customer service in here.


Performance pcs customer service sucks. Slow/rude so I would look to buy somewhere else. Xspc service is great through.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13164588*
> Performance pcs customer service sucks. Slow/rude so I would look to buy somewhere else. Xspc service is great through.


I have heard that before. I have bought a couple of things and never had a problem. Their 1 hr away so shipping would be cheaper. If the 5% off code still works and the free kill coil. I guess I will buy from FrozenCPU.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13164588*
> Performance pcs customer service sucks. Slow/rude so I would look to buy somewhere else. Xspc service is great through.


I generally use Performance PCs because I get the parts next day being in the same state and they have been good to me thus far. I did have an issue with a mispacked item that was also damaged. I spoke with their Customer Service and after a calm, not demanding conversion, they told me I didn't have to send it back and to just remind them on my next order about the damaged items. They sent me the new items, no questions asked. On that same item, I informed them I wish it were made a different way, and they actually listened and sent me the replacement items built to what I recommended, which was a surprise to me. If you do order from them though, check your items within 3 days for any damages or mispacked items and report it back to them. That's their TOS.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13164853*
> I generally use Performance PCs because I get the parts next day being in the same state and they have been good to me thus far. I did have an issue with a mispacked item that was also damaged. I spoke with their Customer Service and after a calm, not demanding conversion, they told me I didn't have to send it back and to just remind them on my next order about the damaged items. They sent me the new items, no questions asked. On that same item, I informed them I wish it were made a different way, and they actually listened and sent me the replacement items built to what I recommended, which was a surprise to me. If you do order from them though, check your items within 3 days for any damages or mispacked items and report it back to them. That's their TOS.


I happy to here someone had a good experience with them. I can only speak for mines and the people I spoke to. On a scale of 1-10 I would give them a 1. True they ship fast but I have gotten to many broken/wrong items and had to deal with poor service. No thanks. This is only one mans opinion.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Installing this block is really pissing me off. No matter what tf i do, the effing hose links.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13165648*
> Installing this block is really pissing me off. No matter what tf i do, the effing hose links.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


You may have to add a little more hose to keep it from doing that. Let me know how it turns out as I have to redo my mines when my new pump get in. Not looking forward to it.


----------



## Havoknova

U mean kink??? Well route u doin on ur loop???


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13165975*
> You may have to add a little more hose to keep it from doing that. Let me know how it turns out as I have to redo my mines when my new pump get in. Not looking forward to it.


Omg i do have a kink on my tube right now..but what i did is i got a spring clamp put in there and clamp the kink and walalalala i got no more kink hehehe..


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Yeah, I meant kink. My phone likes to correct me.. its like a damn woman, I swear. Anyway, yeah, I altered things a little.. I was trying to run my CPU in/out vertically with the out on the top but, that didn't work so I had to make the out on the bottom.

Annnd picture:

_note: I need to learn to shoot at aperatures other than 1.4_


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13166688*
> Yeah, I meant kink. My phone likes to correct me.. its like a damn woman, I swear. Anyway, yeah, I altered things a little.. I was trying to run my CPU in/out vertically with the out on the top but, that didn't work so I had to make the out on the bottom.
> 
> Annnd picture:
> 
> _note: I need to learn to shoot at aperatures other than 1.4_


Looks sexy..so hows thetemps man??? Pretty awesome huh..hehee


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13166688*
> Yeah, I meant kink. My phone likes to correct me.. its like a damn woman, I swear. Anyway, yeah, I altered things a little.. I was trying to run my CPU in/out vertically with the out on the top but, that didn't work so I had to make the out on the bottom.
> 
> Annnd picture:
> 
> _note: I need to learn to shoot at aperatures other than 1.4_


Nice


----------



## RonB94GT

Finaly placed a order.


----------



## Havoknova

Verynice bro...good luck..


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13168898*
> Verynice bro...good luck..


Havok, it says you've reached your PM limit. I cant send you anything


----------



## badatgames18

the tube that came with the kit is turning brown?







but the water in the res is perfectly clear? Should i worry about this?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13169205*
> the tube that came with the kit is turning brown?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the water in the res is perfectly clear? Should i worry about this?


Switch to PrimoFlex Pro LRT 7/16ID-5/8 OD tubing


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13169205*
> the tube that came with the kit is turning brown?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the water in the res is perfectly clear? Should i worry about this?


In terms of cooling performance, no. It's the plasticizer thats clouding the tubing. I didn't like how it looked when it happened to me so I went with black tubing (the "clouding" still happens, but you don't see it).


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13169205*
> the tube that came with the kit is turning brown?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the water in the res is perfectly clear? Should i worry about this?


It's an issue with some tubing. You want to get some that's Plasticizer free. I've been using Primochill and no funky color change yet









_Edit: Damn. You guys beat me. That's what I get for including links







_


----------



## badatgames18

thanks guys


----------



## Havoknova

wow i cant believe my temps with 3 blocks and 2 rads...

at 4.2ghz

temps are on 32c cpu.....nb 34 sb 31 and gpu at 32c heheheh

loving this performace..


----------



## avattz

Here's an update to my sig rig, added the Rasa Universal GPU block. Works pretty well, at idle CPU @ 20° C and GPU at 35° C, at load CPU @ 30° C and GPU @ 41° C.


----------



## badatgames18

u running stock?


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13169687*
> u running stock?


No, CPU is OCed to 3.75GHz, and GPU is OCed to 720MHz. I used to have the GPU at 760 MHz when Afterburner allowed me to increase voltage, but the newer version locked the voltage for GTX 465


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;13169737*
> No, CPU is OCed to 3.75GHz, and GPU is OCed to 720MHz. I used to have the GPU at 760 MHz when Afterburner allowed me to increase voltage, but the newer version locked the voltage for GTX 465


whats ur ambient =)

looks awesome temps u got there..


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;13169737*
> No, CPU is OCed to 3.75GHz, and GPU is OCed to 720MHz. I used to have the GPU at 760 MHz when Afterburner allowed me to increase voltage, but the newer version locked the voltage for GTX 465


my gosh... at load it's 30C? wth... that's so low,

prime95 blend? or small ffts?

my 1100T gets up to the mid to high 50s at 4ghz


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13169752*
> whats ur ambient =)
> 
> looks awesome temps u got there..


I want to know that too, when the window is closed, it can go up to 30° C, if its open it can drop as low as 20° C (and drop my CPU & GPU temps by about 5). It can get really toasty warm in here lol. If you notice, the radiator is right up against the window










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13169757*
> my gosh... at load it's 30C? wth... that's so low,
> 
> prime95 blend? or small ffts?
> 
> my 1100T gets up to the mid to high 50s at 4ghz


Prime95 blend 6 hours stable, the CPU vCore is at 1.32 lol (when I had my 790FX, which blew up, the CPU only asked for 1.26 vCore at stock).


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz;13169822*
> I want to know that too, when the window is closed, it can go up to 30° C, if its open it can drop as low as 20° C (and drop my CPU & GPU temps by about 5). It can get really toasty warm in here lol. If you notice, the radiator is right up against the window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prime95 blend 6 hours stable, the CPU vCore is at 1.32 lol (when I had my 790FX, which blew up, the CPU only asked for 1.26 vCore at stock).


thats why ur temps are low coz ur ambient temps are so low and cold hehehe....

and ur voltage is low too so thats lowers ur temps also...nice


----------



## wetfit9

Hi I ordered my ek blocks for my 580's and it just hit me. I have never install water blocks before, so, are there any good guides/video out that I can read/look at to get a head start. Thanks ahead of time.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13170963*
> Hi I ordered my ek blocks for my 580's and it just hit me. I have never install water blocks before, so, are there any good guides/video out that I can read/look at to get a head start. Thanks ahead of time.


Search on YouTube. Also download the manual from EK site, so you can get familiar with the procedure. Not really hard, just have to cut the thermal pads for the memory and VRMs and apply TIM to GPU and don't force or over-tighten the screws. Also, use the spacers supplied if using barbs on metal side, as the threads will close off the opening into the block and also don't crank down he barbs on the Acetal or Plexi side, or it will strip or crack. If your using 2 blocks, then get the SLI link with F connectors. Makes the the installation very neat and easy to setup up. Just choose whether you want series or parallel flow.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13170963*
> Hi I ordered my ek blocks for my 580's and it just hit me. I have never install water blocks before, so, are there any good guides/video out that I can read/look at to get a head start. Thanks ahead of time.


This is pretty helpful

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xyxVWXQJOA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xyxVWXQJOA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xyxVWXQJOA[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## UNOE

XSPC Res, RX360, and RX240


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13171020*
> Search on YouTube. Also download the manual from EK site, so you can get familiar with the procedure. Not really hard, just have to cut the thermal pads for the memory and VRMs and apply TIM to GPU and don't force or over-tighten the screws. Also, use the spacers supplied if using barbs on metal side, as the threads will close off the opening into the block and also don't crank down he barbs on the Acetal or Plexi side, or it will strip or crack. If your using 2 blocks, then get the SLI link with F connectors. Makes the the installation very neat and easy to setup up. Just choose whether you want series or parallel flow.


I ordered the F connectors for sli to make the water flow parallel. I was trying to read up on that, but most people use the barbs


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13171022*
> This is pretty helpful
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xyxVWXQJOA


Just watched that video, it was helpful. I am still reading/looking for information. Also wanted to know if I can use my Evga backplates with them also, that would be nice.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE;13171072*
> XSPC Res, RX360, and RX240


That is very nice, how hard was it to put that sli setup on your gpu's. I am about to do this in a couple days once my parts get in.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13171142*
> I ordered the F connectors for sli to make the water flow parallel. I was trying to read up on that, but most people use the barbs


Just keep an eye out on the screw lengths. The F connectors use longer screws (2 are one length and 1 is longer than the other two) and the SLI bridge uses 3 16mm M3 bolts (if I remember correctly) and 1 one 20mm M3 bolts at the area where the side barb fits into the bridge. Also, the o-rings for the F connectors and SLI bridge look almost the same, but they are not, so check them carefully and do not mix them up or you will have leaks or fitment issues. Just check all the parts in the bags to make sure you know whats what before slapping everything together.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13171215*
> Just keep an eye out on the screw lengths. The F connectors use longer screws (2 are one length and 1 is longer than the other two) and the SLI bridge uses 3 16mm M3 bolts (if I remember correctly) and 1 one 20mm M3 bolts at the area where the side barb fits into the bridge. Also, the o-rings for the F connectors and SLI bridge look almost the same, but they are not, so check them carefully and do not mix them up or you will have leaks or fitment issues. Just check all the parts in the bags to make sure you know whats what before slapping everything together.


Why could it not be easy, Look like it is going to take me a whole day to put everything together


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13171273*
> Why could it not be easy, Look like it is going to take me a whole day to put everything together


No, its not that hard. It took me an hour to assemble my first card (HD 6870), since I never did one before. After that, its a lot easier. Just count all the parts and bolts first, so you don't mix them up. If you do, you will be taking stuff back apart, that's all.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13171308*
> No, its not that hard. It took me an hour to assemble my first card (HD 6870), since I never did one before. After that, its a lot easier. Just count all the parts and bolts first, so you don't mix them up. If you do, you will be taking stuff back apart, that's all.


Thanks,


----------



## ounderfla69

How to drop 20-30C CPU tempature with a rasa cpu block? Easy!!! Take the Plastic cover off. God I feel stupid this is my 6th or 7th water cooled CPU. I left it on so that I could setup the tubing, and then filled and leaked tested outside the pc. I then didnt see the Plastic and reinstalled it. I was getting the worst load temperatures and I was thinking this the worst cpu or cpu block ever. I decided to reseat the processor and I was cleaning off the theramal past and then I see it. Face Palm!! Now the temps are much better.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ounderfla69;13177126*
> How to drop 20-30C CPU tempature with a rasa cpu block? Easy!!! Take the Plastic cover off. God I feel stupid this is my 6th or 7th water cooled CPU. I left it on so that I could setup the tubing, and then filled and leaked tested outside the pc. I then didnt see the Plastic and reinstalled it. I was getting the worst load temperatures and I was thinking this the worst cpu or cpu block ever. I decided to reseat the processor and I was cleaning off the theramal past and then I see it. Face Palm!! Now the temps are much better.


Rest assured, you're not the first to do that in this thread


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ounderfla69;13177126*
> How to drop 20-30C CPU tempature with a rasa cpu block? Easy!!! Take the Plastic cover off. God I feel stupid this is my 6th or 7th water cooled CPU. I left it on so that I could setup the tubing, and then filled and leaked tested outside the pc. I then didnt see the Plastic and reinstalled it. I was getting the worst load temperatures and I was thinking this the worst cpu or cpu block ever. I decided to reseat the processor and I was cleaning off the theramal past and then I see it. Face Palm!! Now the temps are much better.


LOL
you aren't the first, and won't be the last.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ounderfla69;13177126*
> How to drop 20-30C CPU tempature with a rasa cpu block? Easy!!! Take the Plastic cover off. God I feel stupid this is my 6th or 7th water cooled CPU. I left it on so that I could setup the tubing, and then filled and leaked tested outside the pc. I then didnt see the Plastic and reinstalled it. I was getting the worst load temperatures and I was thinking this the worst cpu or cpu block ever. I decided to reseat the processor and I was cleaning off the theramal past and then I see it. Face Palm!! Now the temps are much better.


Omg ur a victim of the plastic cover of the block too..ehehehe..

There 1 person here did the same thing lolz...

Actually his right there ^^^^^ =p


----------



## RonB94GT

Would my San Aces I have on my H50 or my Yates Loom medium speed be better for the RS240?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;13177649*
> Would my San Aces I have on my H50 or my Yates Loom medium speed be better for the RS240?


I used mediumspeed on my rs360 p/p and the temps are great


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ounderfla69;13177126*
> How to drop 20-30C CPU tempature with a rasa cpu block? Easy!!! Take the Plastic cover off. God I feel stupid this is my 6th or 7th water cooled CPU. I left it on so that I could setup the tubing, and then filled and leaked tested outside the pc. I then didnt see the Plastic and reinstalled it. I was getting the worst load temperatures and I was thinking this the worst cpu or cpu block ever. I decided to reseat the processor and I was cleaning off the theramal past and then I see it. Face Palm!! Now the temps are much better.


Don't feel bad. My daughter (who has no idea about computers, much less water cooling) saw the plastic on the CPU block that I missed. The b**** rubs it in every frigging day she remembers...


----------



## rushino

Damn! just got my replacements XSPC pump and WOW dead silent ! I can't freakin hear it at all







Also shipping was freaking fast ! 2 days !


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rushino;13179928*
> Damn! just got my replacements XSPC pump and WOW dead silent ! I can't freakin hear it at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also shipping was freaking fast ! 2 days !


Where to/from?
I sent mine to them to them because of a leak in the reservoir and they promised cross-shipping once I give them a tracking number. I gave them one today and they haven't replied back. It'll probably arrive there before they ship a replacement out to me :s


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Where to/from?
I sent mine to them to them because of a leak in the reservoir and they promised cross-shipping once I give them a tracking number. I gave them one today and they haven't replied back. It'll probably arrive there before they ship a replacement out to me :s


I bet it has been shipped. They didnt sent me any shipping information when I contacted them about my bad pump. Sent them my shipping infromation on Thursday, got my new pump in today. It was shipped from H C. I cannot put it in for another day, which is the sad part.


----------



## rushino

I confirm. They don't send any shipping info. They ship the same day. Anyway pretty nice and fast replacements.


----------



## [Adz]

Sweet, I'm glad to hear that


----------



## CalypsoRaz

So what do you say puts more load on a cpu; folding or prime95?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nickdine

anyone have the i7 920 D0 overclocked to 4.2ghz with the XSPC Rasa 360?
i have the cpu v at 1.35 with HT on. my idle temp is 47c and prime95 load get up to as high as 80c. the temp seem right? or should it be lower?


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickdine*


anyone have the i7 920 D0 overclocked to 4.2ghz with the XSPC Rasa 360?
i have the cpu v at 1.35 with HT on. my idle temp is 47c and prime95 load get up to as high as 80c. the temp seem right? or should it be lower?


hmm. it should be lower thou.
my former i7 930 @ 4ghz @ 1.28v only hit 67C on my rs240. check if you ave mounted the block correctly


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13185186*
> So what do you say puts more load on a cpu; folding or prime95?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Linpack > Prime > Folding.


----------



## rushino

I removed the plastic wrap from the cpu waterblock like 2 week ago.. and ive lets it float around the case.. can this cause any problem to it ? Maybe a stupid question.. but even if it hasnt touch anythink there still trace of scratch.

Just wondering if this can affect anything ?


----------



## [Adz]

The plastic wrap is harmless, though it may restrict some airflow in your case or around your rads (if they're internal).


----------



## rushino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13186792*
> The plastic wrap is harmless, though it may restrict some airflow in your case or around your rads (if they're internal).


No that not what i meant.. i meant does the scratch (very little one) on the copper block can affect anything ? What the best way to clean it before applying the thermal paste ?

What is strange is that its new lol i mean it was shinny at first but after 2 week.. floating in the case it seem some dust done some little scratch or whatever. (When i say little its little..)

Thanks.


----------



## [Adz]

Ah okay. You could try cleaning it with some boiling water and white vinegar, but it unless it's a pretty deep scratch, you should be okay. If it's pretty bad, you could lap it, but that would likely void any warranty you might have.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13186402*
> Linpack > Prime > Folding.


Thank =)

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ht_addict

Whats the easiest way to drain the loop in a RX240? I'm adding a GPU block to my setup.


----------



## [Adz]

If you don't have a drain pipe already, you're probably better off removing the entire loop as a whole. Alternatively, you could pull out the res and turn the case completely upside down to drain all the water out. As for the RX240 itself, keep turning it upside down and back to normal until nothing comes out any more.

And then, when you add the GPU block, you could add a drain pipe to that, if it's the lowest point in the loop.


----------



## Domino

For a pump, are you guys able to use fish tank pumps to cycle water if the pump ever dies?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domino;13188686*
> For a pump, are you guys able to use fish tank pumps to cycle water if the pump ever dies?


Not with this kit no. The pump is enclosed in the reservoir so it can't be swapped out.
In custom loops, I'm not so sure. It depends on whether the pump can output enough head at a good enough flow rate.

The first one I found had a high flow rate (2100 L/H) but didn't say anything about head. The problem with that though is that it requires a mains power source, since 12v is nowhere near enough.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Domino*


For a pump, are you guys able to use fish tank pumps to cycle water if the pump ever dies?


The stock X20 750 pump IMO is a 12v fish tank pump. There are 12v pumps out there that are used for fish tanks. One of them is Eheim, but they make it computer specific with a 12v board and other circuits. I believe Hydor is another brand. In most cases, just use a Laing D5 or DDC pump as your alternative with XSPC reservoir or top with reservoir.


----------



## Havoknova

Waaaaa can i put my small gold fish on the res??? Or it will die coz it will be sucked by the pump and die???

I need some upgrade so thats the only cheap upgrade i can do for now..coz i pit gas on my escalade for 110 bucks


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Waaaaa can i put my small gold fish on the res??? Or it will die coz it will be sucked by the pump and die???

I need some upgrade so thats the only cheap upgrade i can do for now..coz i pit gas on my escalade for 110 bucks










I feel your pain on the gas in the Escalade, I just fill mine up yesterday from empty and it hurts. I will never put off getting gas again, half is my empty, so it does not look/hurt as bad.

Anyway, waiting on my gpu blocks to get in, so I can fix my system and get back to gaming and enjoying my system. I hate it when things break. Over the next couple of months or as money allow, I am going to start getting a few upgrades/back up items.


----------



## Havoknova

Freakin expensive on the escalade..last time its about 20-30 bucks and its full tank already..now i put 20buck every another day so it will not bad hehe..good thing i got a sportsbike to use in this time of need..

Well im pretty good on upgrades now on my rig..maybe buy me a new case (bigger case) or wait for bulldozer to come in and buy 1 of those heeh...


----------



## wetfit9

I go to half and fill up once a week, it hurts, but the ride is so sweet.

Just got my fans in, still no tubing or blocks. Look like the rest is due in tomorrow. I am going to pull one of my 580's today and get it ready for tomorrow. In the morning when the wife leave I will take the whole system apart and start installing all the new stuff. I just hop Fedex get my blocks in by two so I can have everything done by five. I cannot wait to get started. I will try to remember to take some pictures as I go. I just hope this new pump as quiet and last longer then the last one.


----------



## Havoknova

Well what block did u buy??

On my rig i got my fc6870 by rk and a full cover..looks sweet and temps is much sweeter..


----------



## wetfit9

I picked up ek full cover block for my 580's. I have spent the last day or so reading up on how to install them. Look like fun. All I know is that this is going to take a while. 
Going to put six CM green R4's on my 360 Rad up top and Emermax on a 120 rad on the back fan mounted area. Going to go with black tubing. I have it all pictured in my head. I hope it looks as good in person


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


I picked up ek full cover block for my 580's. I have spent the last day or so reading up on how to install them. Look like fun. All I know is that this is going to take a while. 
Going to put six CM green R4's on my 360 Rad up top and Emermax on a 120 rad on the back fan mounted area. Going to go with black tubing. I have it all pictured in my head. I hope it looks as good in person


thats what i actually got in my rads are the r4 sickle flows...i got 8 fans but i bought fan controllers coz need to control them down its kinda noticable sound but not too loud though at full speed..

lol like what i have on the tubing so cool....


----------



## Quccu

Does anyone know whats the difference in temperature when using RX240 Radiator with;

Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm vs
Scythe Gentle Typhoon 800rpm vs 
Stock Fans that came with XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 Kit.

Not sure whether I should upgrade my fans to the 800rpm or 1850rpm Gentle Typhoon.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quccu*


Does anyone know whats the difference in temperature when using RX240 Radiator with;

Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm vs
Scythe Gentle Typhoon 800rpm vs 
Stock Fans that came with XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 Kit.

Not sure whether I should upgrade my fans to the 800rpm or 1850rpm Gentle Typhoon.


I wouldn't get 800rpm GT fans. If you're gonna get GT fans, get the 1850rpm. They are really quiet, more than the stock XSPC fans, and you won't give up any cooling at all.


----------



## calvinbui

is it possible to mount the reservoir/pump in a different location (not the 5.25 inch bays) i actually don't have any room there in my Lian Li A05NB


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *calvinbui*


is it possible to mount the reservoir/pump in a different location (not the 5.25 inch bays) i actually don't have any room there in my Lian Li A05NB


Heck,Put it any where you want and it fits.


----------



## Crabby654

I'm trying my hardest to figure out the best setup for my 3 fan rad for the rasa kit. Right now I have 3 medium speed Yate Loons (red LED) that run at 1450RPM and I have the stock 3 fans that are just black that run at 1600rpm. Obviously the push fans should be the higher RPM but then that would defeat the purpose of the red LED yate loons on the top. Hmm such hard decisions!


----------



## AMOCO

make the 1600rpm fans pull the air,and the others push.


----------



## Crabby654

Ya I think I might just do that, gotta have those red LED's in the best view!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I'm trying my hardest to figure out the best setup for my 3 fan rad for the rasa kit. Right now I have 3 medium speed Yate Loons (red LED) that run at 1450RPM and I have the stock 3 fans that are just black that run at 1600rpm. Obviously the push fans should be the higher RPM but then that would defeat the purpose of the red LED yate loons on the top. Hmm such hard decisions!


buy 3 more yateloons and ull be set hehehe...but for me go push on the highest rpms u got...


----------



## rugox

Hey guys,

Got a question about the pump power of the rasa kit. I got the RX240 kit and I want to add a gpu with a full block to the loop soon. Will the stock pump cut it?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;13199403*
> Hey guys,
> 
> Got a question about the pump power of the rasa kit. I got the RX240 kit and I want to add a gpu with a full block to the loop soon. Will the stock pump cut it?


I got cpu,full mb block and a gpu with 2 x rad (1x360 and 240)

And i can tell u right now the pump can handle it...


----------



## calvinbui

what is the temp difference (for the RX240 radiator) between a push setup to a push/pull setup?


----------



## wetfit9

Well, today have been one of those days. I got all of my stuff in today. I redid my loop to add a 120mm rad on the rear with just one fan in push. Put six CM R4 in p/p on my 360rad up top. Break down one of my 580's and get the block put on, Man things are looking good. Then All crap break out. I take apart my second 580 and I guess I broke off one of the resistors. Now I have a $500 paper weight. :-(. I get on the phone and call Evga and of course I know they can't help cause it was my fault. But after speaking to three people, the third said yes, send it back as an RMA, and we will just charge you to repair the damage. Something along the lines of $20, I said don't kid with me and they said we are not kidding and sit up the RMA while I was on the phone. Shipping that bad boy out tomorrow morning with express shipping. I am at least glad I have one. I don't have time to run test right now but i can say the temps are down. Here are a few pictures for now.

























I didn't do any cable management for now. I will get that done tomorrow. I am so piss about my 580, that I have to take a minute and have a drink.


----------



## Havoknova

what happen to ur 580??


----------



## [Adz]

New res/pump in the morning


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13208091*
> I take apart my second 580 and I guess I broke off one of the resistors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am so piss about my 580, that I have to take a minute and have a drink.


Looks like you knocked off a capacitor, not a resistor. Hopefully EVGA takes care of ya. Gotta do my 6990 and 6970 waterblocks tomorrow.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13208250*
> what happen to ur 580??


I hit one of the capacitor's and it came off. Don't know if any more are broken or not. RMA'ed back to evga, who said they will fix it, but I have to pay for it. I don't care what they charged, it is better then having a paper weight.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13208575*
> I hit one of the capacitor's and it came off. Don't know if any more are broken or not. RMA'ed back to evga, who said they will fix it, but I have to pay for it. I don't care what they charged, it is better then having a paper weight.


If the caps terminal legs are soldered to the opposite side of the PCB only, thats any easy fix. Would only need the exact same capacitor to solder back on after removing the broken legs stuck to the PCB.


----------



## wetfit9

I have the capacitors, it is just I was going to do it myself as a last ditch effort. I am not good at all. I am better off sending it back to them so I know it is done right.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13208827*
> I have the capacitors, it is just I was going to do it myself as a last ditch effort. I am not good at all. I am better off sending it back to them so I know it is done right.


Make sure you take lots of clear pictures of it before you pack it and send it. The one's you have posted aren't exactly clear because of the flash.


----------



## wetfit9

thanks


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm so it looks like sometimes this week I'll be ordering my 1/2 ID compression fittings and 1/2 ID red tubing to replace what came with the rasa kit. I wonder tho, is there anyone else I should buy that I might be overlooking? Or maybe anything to do to tweak my setup? I know that when I change the tubing I'm going to spin my rad around so its closing to the pump and has less travel time around the loops. Hmm, sorry just random thoughts questions!


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13208091*


Is that a kink that I see coming off of the graphics card?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

If i can get my overclock worked out(CPU Frequency is not sticking and missing some things in my bios i should not be...???) ill let everyone know my temps with my overclock. been running at stock and loading at 39C LOL


----------



## wetfit9

Is that a kink that I see coming off of the graphics card

I will check that out, I was thinking of adding some green kink cord to it. I have it, I just didn't think it would look right.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13209446*
> Is that a kink that I see coming off of the graphics card
> 
> I will check that out, I was thinking of adding some green kink cord to it. I have it, I just didn't think it would look right.


Not being rude at all, but, am i the only person who HATES...no DESPISES, the kink cord stuff? No offense, but for some reason i hate that stuff...you dont understand, i look at it and want to rip it off and stomp on it over and over and over, then let my dog use it as a chew toy...wow...glad thats out of my system now. sorry lol


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;13209483*
> Not being rude at all, but, am i the only person who HATES...no DESPISES, the kink cord stuff? No offense, but for some reason i hate that stuff...you dont understand, i look at it and want to rip it off and stomp on it over and over and over, then let my dog use it as a chew toy...wow...glad thats out of my system now. sorry lol


Me to, wow, tell us how you really feel


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13209619*
> Me to, wow, tell us how you really feel


lol. im having a pissy day. my package i sent off through usps was destroyed, my gtx 570 was, for lack of words, broke in half and my $200 money order that was in the box is missing(when i went to usps to pick up the box the box was cut open). To top it off, the 570 was only insured for $100 so again, usps screwed me, but atleast they used sandpaper condoms so i wont get pregnant.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


lol. im having a pissy day. my package i sent off through usps was destroyed, my gtx 570 was, for lack of words, broke in half and my $200 money order that was in the box is missing(when i went to usps to pick up the box the box was cut open). To top it off, the 570 was only insured for $100 so again, usps screwed me, but atleast they used sandpaper condoms so i wont get pregnant.


WOW, talk about taking it up the rear, folded twice, rolled in sand, and put in dry.....


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


lol. im having a pissy day. my package i sent off through usps was destroyed, my gtx 570 was, for lack of words, broke in half and my $200 money order that was in the box is missing(when i went to usps to pick up the box the box was cut open). To top it off, the 570 was only insured for $100 so again, usps screwed me, but atleast they used sandpaper condoms so i wont get pregnant.


Man I thought I was having a bad day when I broke a capacitor on my 580. At least I have a chance to get mines fixed. Bro I feel for you.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Not being rude at all, but, am i the only person who HATES...no DESPISES, the kink cord stuff? No offense, but for some reason i hate that stuff...you dont understand, i look at it and want to rip it off and stomp on it over and over and over, then let my dog use it as a chew toy...wow...glad thats out of my system now. sorry lol


Nope, but it's down to preference.
I like the anti-kink springs. Partly because my look needs them, and partly because I think they add some nice contrast to the tubing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


lol. im having a pissy day. my package i sent off through usps was destroyed, my gtx 570 was, for lack of words, broke in half and my $200 money order that was in the box is missing(when i went to usps to pick up the box the box was cut open). To top it off, the 570 was only insured for $100 so again, usps screwed me, but atleast they used sandpaper condoms so i wont get pregnant.


----------



## Brissmas

A question about using this kit on AMD, ive read that it doesent come with a backplate and you have to buy a seperate one. Is that true?


----------



## bennieboi6969

if ur getting it from pccg then it comes with it

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=16617

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=16619


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


lol. im having a pissy day. my package i sent off through usps was destroyed, my gtx 570 was, for lack of words, broke in half and my $200 money order that was in the box is missing(when i went to usps to pick up the box the box was cut open). To top it off, the 570 was only insured for $100 so again, usps screwed me, but atleast they used sandpaper condoms so i wont get pregnant.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brissmas;13213714*
> A question about using this kit on AMD, ive read that it doesent come with a backplate and you have to buy a seperate one. Is that true?


I bought my kit from frozencpu and I did not come with an AMD backplate, but I just used my original one that came with my motherboard and it was all gravy


----------



## [Adz]

Replacement pump/res arrived. Doesn't leak AND is damn near silent unlike the last one.
Score


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13218981*
> Replacement pump/res arrived. Doesn't leak AND is damn near silent unlike the last one.
> Score


Grats man...now u can use ur computer in peace hehhe


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13218981*
> Replacement pump/res arrived. Doesn't leak AND is damn near silent unlike the last one.
> Score


That is nice, mines is the same way. I have to put my ear next to it to even know it is on. Now to fine some good quiet fans that I can run in push and pull on RS360. My R4's from CM sound loud, I went water cooler to get a quieter PC and now it is louder. But it is cooler.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13219378*
> Grats man...now u can use ur computer in peace hehhe


Well, not until I build it. And my fans are kinda loud too








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13219617*
> That is nice, mines is the same way. I have to put my ear next to it to even know it is on. Now to fine some good quiet fans that I can run in push and pull on RS360. My R4's from CM sound loud, I went water cooler to get a quieter PC and now it is louder. But it is cooler.


Yep, I've got CM R4's too. I just hooked them all up to the controller and cranked it up the max. It's disappointingly loud








I could pick up Gentle Typhoon AP-15s (1850RPM) but they're £11 each and I don't like the colour, nor do I want to spend more time painting them. The even faster ones (3000 RPM+) are £19 each and obviously will be much louder, even though it's a nicer colour.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13219703*
> Well, not until I build it. And my fans are kinda loud too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, I've got CM R4's too. I just hooked them all up to the controller and cranked it up the max. It's disappointingly loud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could pick up Gentle Typhoon AP-15s (1850RPM) but they're £11 each and I don't like the colour, nor do I want to spend more time painting them. The even faster ones (3000 RPM+) are £19 each and obviously will be much louder, even though it's a nicer colour.


So the Gentle Typhoon AP-15s(1850) are quiet. Cause right now I have them hooked to a controller but they don't work well with it. They either turn off or I just get the led's on. So for now I just run the one's in push at full all the time and the pull off until I am gaming and then run both set's but the temps still are only 2 or three different.


----------



## [Adz]

How much quieter than the R4's? Also, are your R4's the 90CFM ones or the 60CFM?


----------



## wetfit9

Didn't know there was a different. I know when CM first release them, they stated they were 90cfm, but was only like 69cfm which the current one's state.


----------



## [Adz]

Still listed as 90CFM here: http://www.coolermaster.com/product....category_id=63

And how much quieter are the AP-15s than the R4s?


----------



## wetfit9

Yes, but when you go to there store or any other store, they are listed as such:
http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...roducts_id=263
Look at the spec's they are the same.

There is no different in them, unless I am wrong, because none of the stores I have went to after the first couple of months out have them listed as 90cfm. Not even in CM store.

As far if the AP-15 quieter, I am waiting on that same answer.


----------



## [Adz]

Well they're definitely not 19dB(A), that's for sure.

Oh, and when you said _"So the Gentle Typhoon AP-15s(1850) are quiet. Cause right now I have them hooked to a controller but they don't work well with it."_ I thought you meant you had the AP15's on a controller. Sorry, my mistake.

Which controller are you using? I've got the FC6 and they seem to work alright. I have to turn the dial about a third of the way before it starts, but at it's slowest the LED's are very dim and it runs at around 600RPM. Turning it up to max brightens the LED's proportionately.


----------



## Havoknova

well i love my r4 specially on thin rads...

i think the r4 sickle flows 2000 rpms are not good on thick rads coz it makes hum noise..but on thin rads like the rs and crank it up to full or mid range speed its like so perfect....

did u notice a humming noice when u put it in a fat rad???


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


well i love my r4 specially on thin rads...

i think the r4 sickle flows 2000 rpms are not good on thick rads coz it makes hum noise..but on thin rads like the rs and crank it up to full or mid range speed its like so perfect....

did u notice a humming noice when u put it in a fat rad???


I haven't tried it on a fat rad yet. I've got two on an RS240 that don't make any humming noises. I'll probably be putting two on an RX120 also, but I haven't done that yet.


----------



## Havoknova

yea i tried it on a ek fatty 240 rad and it hums like a mofo....i need to lower it 50% speed to lower the hum...but not noticable if its inside the case....

im use too super load 100% fans on my air setup so i guess this load sound that this fans use is nothing to me anymore....i think this stuff i hear is low noise to none hehehe...

yea r4 is nice on air pressure so i guess ill stick to it...its noisey but performace is great..


----------



## bennieboi6969

mine i can hardly hear? theyre real quiet? and on max rpm


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


Still listed as 90CFM here: http://www.coolermaster.com/product....category_id=63

And how much quieter are the AP-15s than the R4s?


The GT AP-15s are silent compared to the CM 120 fans. I have a CM 120 red led fan now, and its noisy at full speed mounted in the bottom of my HAF932. I'll check to make sure which CM 120 fan it is shortly, but I had to lower the RPM as it was noisy.


----------



## rugox

So you guys all know that RX240 is thick and therefore I can only do two fan set up at the top of my corsair 650D. It'll be used to cool both the CPU and GPU. I'm looking to bring external air in from the top of the case inside rather then exhausting out the radiator. So here's my question: 
Do I go push(by placing the fans to the roof of the case and attaching the radiator underneath)? 
Or do I go pull(by attaching the radiator to the roof of the case and then attaching the fans on the side that's facing the inside of the case)?


----------



## staryoshi

AP15s are far from silent, but they produce a much less irritating noise. The R4s make an obnoxious amount of noise when any resistance is placed in front of them. GTs are much less inconsiderate. The difference between the two is night and day, really, as far as I'm concerned. (I've owned many of both







)


----------



## Quccu

Are the GT AP13 and AP14 both better performing than the stock RX240 fans?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quccu*


Are the GT AP13 and AP14 both better performing than the stock RX240 fans?


The AP14 may be, but I doubt the AP13 is. The benefit to using the AP13 is that it is near SILENT and still moves a bit of air. I have a push-pull H50 config using AP13 in my Silverstone Sugo 05 case. It is sitting a foot to my left and I cannot hear it. It manages to push a good amount of air through the rad, too.

I have so many GTs in service right now








2 AP13 in my ITX rig
2 AP14 and 2 AP13 in my sig rig.

I have a 92mm AP12 that I should find a way to use in my other PC, too... sold my two AP15s :'(


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Got my system overclocked for the first time. running a modest 4.5GHZ at 1.344(1.3V set in bios). Temps are at 56C after 25mins prime95. once i get this locked in im going to try to lower my V abit to see if i can lower temps more. BUT, how is 56C at my speed and voltage sound? good/bad/average?


----------



## wetfit9

I cannot take it anymore with the R4, I am switching them out now with some Xigmatex Crystal green led, I only have two so far so I am going to use the two I got until I can get to the store tonight and use the fans that came with the kit as pull. I will let you know if it is quieter and if there is a big different in temps.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

well now sitting at 4.7ghz and 1.32v in bios(more like 1.36 in windows under load) but even with the .02 increase, my temps have not gone up. still loading at 56c. now just more cores are hitting 56c. before it was 51c, 52c, 56c, 54c. now its 53c, 56c, 56c, 55c.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


well now sitting at 4.7ghz and 1.32v in bios(more like 1.36 in windows under load) but even with the .02 increase, my temps have not gone up. still loading at 56c. now just more cores are hitting 56c. before it was 51c, 52c, 56c, 54c. now its 53c, 56c, 56c, 55c.


those are nice, I heard SB was made for overclocking well.

I changed out my fans and drop my noise by bit. I now have all the fans running full speed and it quieter then it was. Temp so look about the same.


----------



## RonB94GT

Got my kit today. To lazy to go to the store tonight. Would it be ok to clean the block with tap water or should I wait till get some distilled water? Also are you using teflon tape on the fittings?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


I cannot take it anymore with the R4, I am switching them out now with some Xigmatex Crystal green led, I only have two so far so I am going to use the two I got until I can get to the store tonight and use the fans that came with the kit as pull. I will let you know if it is quieter and if there is a big different in temps.


LOL, I have one and had to speed control it in my case. It's obnoxious if mounted against something, so I can imagine 2-3 of them.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Got my kit today. To lazy to go to the store tonight. Would it be ok to clean the block with tap water or should I wait till get some distilled water? Also are you using teflon tape on the fittings?


You can always run tap water though the components to wash out any thing left behind during the assembly/building process, but always rinse it well afterwards with distilled or purified RO/DI water to remove any minerals/contaminants from the tap water. Most use hot water to wash out the radiator. I believe that the only thing you need to worry about. The CPU block can be opened and inspected if rinsing is needed and the reservoir you can see if anything is in it. I fill the reservoir with water and install a small piece of tubing and let the pump run to check its operation and for any leaks, then drain it and fill it with clean pure water afterwards. You can see if the pump is excessively noise also during this test.

As for Teflon tape, its not needed, since all the G1/4 ports for the barbs are sealed with o-rings. You only need Teflon tape or liquid Teflon for tapered pipe threaded fittings, which the kit does not have.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


You can always run tap water though the components to wash out any thing left behind during the assembly/building process, but always rinse it well afterwards with distilled or purified RO/DI water to remove any minerals/contaminants from the tap water. Most use hot water to wash out the radiator. I believe that the only thing you need to worry about. The CPU block can be opened and inspected if rinsing is needed and the reservoir you can see if anything is in it. I fill the reservoir with water and install a small piece of tubing and let the pump run to check its operation and for any leaks, then drain it and fill it with clean pure water afterwards. You can see if the pump is excessively noise also during this test.

As for Teflon tape, its not needed, since all the G1/4 ports for the barbs are sealed with o-rings. You only need Teflon tape or liquid Teflon for tapered pipe threaded fittings, which the kit does not have.


Ok I'll wait till I get the distilled water. Didn't even notice the o rings. It's the plumber in me that wants to use teflon tape on everything.LOL


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Ok I'll wait till I get the distilled water. Didn't even notice the o rings. It's the plumber in me that wants to use teflon tape on everything.LOL


Yeah, but on these small computer items, a stray piece of teflon tape can enter your pump impeller, CPU block, or radiator core. I strictly avoid it on these items. If it leaks from anything sealed with an o-ring, then it needs to be replaced. You can snug the barbs with a wrench, but nothing more. Just enough to keep them from coming loose. Trust me, I'm in the auto business and think about applying all kinds of sealants and chemicals, but it not needed. I only use coolant from our company mixed with pure water, since I know its good and doesn't clog or precipitate anything into your system over time.


----------



## ezveedub

OK, so has anyone tried these fans yet on their RX/RS radiator yet? It's making a big claim here and trying to fill that gap left behind by Scythe/Nidec in the 2000+RPM range.

Evercool Titan TFD-12025H12ZP Kukri 120mm PWM Silent Case Fan

http://www.svc.com/tfd-12025h12zp.html


----------



## Havoknova

I saw a case that will be a home for my rasa rig..

I think it will be release at MAY...check it out

For 200 dollors

Xigmatek elysium...

Review at youtube..41minutes long


----------



## calvinbui

I was thinking about just getting a GPU-only loop with a RX120 rad to cool my 6950. Is the RX120 sufficient?

Further down the line, i'll be getting an RX240 to include the CPU in the loop as well. So i was thinking of getting the RX120 GPU only loop for now


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *calvinbui*


I was thinking about just getting a GPU-only loop with a RX120 rad to cool my 6950. Is the RX120 sufficient?

Further down the line, i'll be getting an RX240 to include the CPU in the loop as well. So i was thinking of getting the RX120 GPU only loop for now


Go for the biggest rad you can fit if you want to add stuff later. Start with the RX240 and add a 120 if you need it, later. Not 120 first, then 240 later.


----------



## bennieboi6969

or just go for a rx360 cpu loop and add the gpu block straight away?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=16617

and mayb

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=16379


----------



## calvinbui

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969*


or just go for a rx360 cpu loop and add the gpu block straight away?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=16617

and mayb

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=16379


i can only fit a 240 and a 120. I think i might get a custom pump and all that, only the rad to be XSPC. Mainly from gammods

do you reckon push, or push/pull. Trying to go for silent performance here


----------



## bennieboi6969

go push pull with low rpm fans then. i have r4 90cfm on my rs240 and theres next to no noise in my opinion


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calvinbui;13235916*
> i can only fit a 240 and a 120. I think i might get a custom pump and all that, only the rad to be XSPC. Mainly from gammods
> 
> do you reckon push, or push/pull. Trying to go for silent performance here


I would do RX240 in push first. The. RX rads work best with low-mid speed fans. A RS rad needs mid-high speed fans. Always go for the biggest system you can use, because you will always want to got further. If you want a simple pump setup, then go with Bmaverick's DDC pump in a XSPC reservoir or a D5 pump in a XSPC reservoir if you want to skip the X20 750 pump. I run the DDC pump now and have no issues with a RX360 on 1 CPU and 2 GPUs.


----------



## wetfit9

Where can you fine a D5 pump in a XSPC reservoir? I would like to take a look at one.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13236669*
> Where can you fine a D5 pump in a XSPC reservoir? I would like to take a look at one.


Go to XSPC website or EBay. There are XSPC dual 5.25" bay reservoirs for a single D5 pump.

Where is my homie MBudden? He should be steering you the FAQs right now, LOL!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13236669*
> Where can you fine a D5 pump in a XSPC reservoir? I would like to take a look at one.


It may be discontinued, but they are still available.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11219/ex-res-232/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Clear_Silver_Black.html


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13236749*
> It may be discontinued, but they are still available.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11219/ex-res-232/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Clear_Silver_Black.html


Is this pump any better then the one that came with the kit.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13236819*
> Is this pump any better then the one that came with the kit.


By performance stressing tests, yes. The D5 flows more, but the DDC pumps will flow more through restrictive loops. The D5 has more flow, less restriction reserve. The DDC has more pressure reserve, but flows less than a free flowing loop than the D5 pump. Don't get me wrong, the stock pump works fine, but the Laing pumps will exceed it under high loads.


----------



## Havoknova

yea probably buy me a pump and new res this summer...if i got a new case...just waiting for xigmatek tower to release then ill be spending money again..

probably get me a dual pump res...d5's


----------



## wetfit9

I don't know what I am going to do as of now. I am waiting to see what Evga is going to charge to fix my 580. Once I get it in the loop and see what my temp are, then I will see if I need a better pump. Right now, my gpu is at 35 idle and up to 44 when gaming. no codes get about 60 with an over clock of 4.0. Which is my daily use and I sit at 38 idle on the cpu. So if I don't see major changes, I will leave it alone for now.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13237668*
> I don't know what I am going to do as of now. I am waiting to see what Evga is going to charge to fix my 580. Once I get it in the loop and see what my temp are, then I will see if I need a better pump. Right now, my gpu is at 35 idle and up to 44 when gaming. no codes get about 60 with an over clock of 4.0. Which is my daily use and I sit at 38 idle on the cpu. So if I don't see major changes, I will leave it alone for now.


If you're doing one CPU and GPU, the stock pump is fine.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13237707*
> If you're doing one CPU and GPU, the stock pump is fine.


I am doing the cpu and two gpu's. My second one is in for repairs. I am running right now, from the pump to the 360 rad to the cpu to a 120 rad to the gpu back to the res/pump. I plan to add the second gpu once it get back from evga. I already have the block in.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Thought I would try
Anyone with the kit and an 2500/2600 at around 4.7 can give me temps that would be great. I'm peaking at 61c after 3 hours but I had to turn on my heater and temps in my house went up about 4f. Just trying to figure out how my kit/Overclock is. Thanks and goodnight.


----------



## rugox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;13222923*
> So you guys all know that RX240 is thick and therefore I can only do two fan set up at the top of my corsair 650D. It'll be used to cool both the CPU and GPU. I'm looking to bring external air in from the top of the case inside rather then exhausting out the radiator. So here's my question:
> Do I go push(by placing the fans to the roof of the case and attaching the radiator underneath)?
> Or do I go pull(by attaching the radiator to the roof of the case and then attaching the fans on the side that's facing the inside of the case)?


can anyone shed some light?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Go to XSPC website or EBay. There are XSPC dual 5.25" bay reservoirs for a single D5 pump.

Where is my homie MBudden? He should be steering you the FAQs right now, LOL!


I've been a bit busy lately. I haven't been able to get on as much as I would like.







I really appreciate the help guys.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rugox*


So you guys all know that RX240 is thick and therefore I can only do two fan set up at the top of my corsair 650D. It'll be used to cool both the CPU and GPU. I'm looking to bring external air in from the top of the case inside rather then exhausting out the radiator. So here's my question: 
Do I go push(by placing the fans to the roof of the case and attaching the radiator underneath)? 
Or do I go pull(by attaching the radiator to the roof of the case and then attaching the fans on the side that's facing the inside of the case)?


I'm not sure if the RX rads are anything like the RS rads. But the RS rads like being run in Push than in Pull. I know I had seen a good 1-2C drop when I moved mine from Pull to Push.

When you're putting your rad into your case, you always want the hot air exhausting out. It makes no sense in exhausting it inwards. Not to mention, heat rises. So your best bet would have them Pushing the air out than Pushing it in.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Got my system overclocked for the first time. running a modest 4.5GHZ at 1.344(1.3V set in bios). Temps are at 56C after 25mins prime95. once i get this locked in im going to try to lower my V abit to see if i can lower temps more. BUT, how is 56C at my speed and voltage sound? good/bad/average?


Sounds good to me. Someone PM'd me just the other day about his temps being around 50C on stock clocks. So that looks about right to me. But then again, you and him didn't mention ambient temps so, I'm not too sure. But that looks good to me.


----------



## RonB94GT

So I cleaned rad this morning. Hot water little vinegar. Let it set for 1 hr shook it a few times in between. Repeated the process. I got very little junk out. Did I just get a clean rad or didn't let soak long enough.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


So I cleaned rad this morning. Hot water little vinegar. Let it set for 1 hr shook it a few times in between. Repeated the process. I got very little junk out. Did I just get a clean rad or didn't let soak long enough.


You don't really need it to soak. Because it would let things settle. What I would do is just flush it, force water through and push whatever out. That's what I did before I sold mine.

I basically ran it under the sink for a good 3 minutes or so. Letting the water push whatever baddies out then rinsed with some warm distilled water to get whatever minerals came from the tap water.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


You don't really need it to soak. Because it would let things settle. What I would do is just flush it, force water through and push whatever out. That's what I did before I sold mine.

I basically ran it under the sink for a good 3 minutes or so. Letting the water push whatever baddies out then rinsed with some warm distilled water to get whatever minerals came from the tap water.


I'll do that now. Thanks


----------



## Crabby654

I think I asked this before but I can't seem to find my post regarding it. But I have the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit and I wanted to buy compression fittings for it (I'd need 6 total) but I have no idea which ones I should buy. I'd like to get 1/2inch ID tubing for more water flow. But regarding the outside diameter of the holes that the fittings screw into, I'm really not sure what I should be looking at. Some say G1/4" x 3/4" OD, some give millimeter sizes, oi. I just don't want to get screwed by buying the wrong ones and they wont screw into the block/res/rad.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

i have a really dumb question. could i use my old pump/res combo and get another rad, either 120 or 240, plus a gpu block and cool it with my gpu. 2 separate loops = better temps, right?


----------



## RonB94GT

Should I go pump>cpu>rad>res?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I think I asked this before but I can't seem to find my post regarding it. But I have the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit and I wanted to buy compression fittings for it (I'd need 6 total) but I have no idea which ones I should buy. I'd like to get 1/2inch ID tubing for more water flow. But regarding the outside diameter of the holes that the fittings screw into, I'm really not sure what I should be looking at. Some say G1/4" x 3/4" OD, some give millimeter sizes, oi. I just don't want to get screwed by buying the wrong ones and they wont screw into the block/res/rad.


I don't have much experience with those types of things but there is some videos in the FAQ that has a wealth of information. I would take a look at them. That could possibly answer most of your questions.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


i have a really dumb question. could i use my old pump/res combo and get another rad, either 120 or 240, plus a gpu block and cool it with my gpu. 2 separate loops = better temps, right?


I don't see why you can't. I mean XSPC makes a pump/res combination that can have two pumps. And you can have two separate loops. So I don't see why you couldn't.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Should I go pump>cpu>rad>res?


It doesn't really matter. Mine was like that.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Should I go pump>cpu>rad>res?


Depends on how u run the tube and design of ur tube to make ur rig look nice....

But on performace wise its just the same coz its only cpu loop..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I think I asked this before but I can't seem to find my post regarding it. But I have the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit and I wanted to buy compression fittings for it (I'd need 6 total) but I have no idea which ones I should buy. I'd like to get 1/2inch ID tubing for more water flow. But regarding the outside diameter of the holes that the fittings screw into, I'm really not sure what I should be looking at. Some say G1/4" x 3/4" OD, some give millimeter sizes, oi. I just don't want to get screwed by buying the wrong ones and they wont screw into the block/res/rad.



On 1/2 tubing u got 2 sizes on OD..u got 3/4 and 5/8..thick OD or thin OD..

5/8 OD compression fittings are a bit cheaper than the 3/4 OD..but it depends on ur taste..but make sure u get the right size on the OD coz if u got a 5/8 OD tubing and u have a 3/4 OD it will not seal coz its loose on ur screw in ring..

And if u got a 3/4 OD tubing and u get a 5/8 OD compression the ring will not screw in coz u got a fatty tubing hehee..

Hope it help...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I think I asked this before but I can't seem to find my post regarding it. But I have the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit and I wanted to buy compression fittings for it (I'd need 6 total) but I have no idea which ones I should buy. I'd like to get 1/2inch ID tubing for more water flow. But regarding the outside diameter of the holes that the fittings screw into, I'm really not sure what I should be looking at. Some say G1/4" x 3/4" OD, some give millimeter sizes, oi. I just don't want to get screwed by buying the wrong ones and they wont screw into the block/res/rad.


For 1/2'' PrimoFlex tubing, you need 1/2"ID-3/4"OD compression fittings. The fittings need to be G1/4 thread (side that screws into the rad, CPU block and reservoir). In metric, its 13mm ID-19mm OD


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


i have a really dumb question. could i use my old pump/res combo and get another rad, either 120 or 240, plus a gpu block and cool it with my gpu. 2 separate loops = better temps, right?


Yea it will be great if u can do dual loop..but the only down fall is space..but if u got enough space then ur good to go..


----------



## RonB94GT

Should I use the plastic hose clamps? On barb or behind using Primo Chil 7/16 id hose. So far pump is real quiet.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Should I use the plastic hose clamps? On barb or behind using Primo Chil 7/16 id hose. So far pump is real quiet.


The tubing should be quite snug over the barbs. But I would just add them anyways, even though I doubt you need to.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Should I use the plastic hose clamps? On barb or behind using Primo Chil 7/16 id hose. So far pump is real quiet.


U can use any kind of clamps..

Stock clamps are great for safety..coz u dont want licks..even with 7/16 on 1/2 barb there still alot of peeps saying there tube pop out..so for added safety put it on.. "for the sake of ur big money parts that u dont want to be destroyed"


----------



## Crabby654

Alright so I'm thinking about getting these fittings and this tubing, just curious if they will fit and match properly. I'm only asking because the tubing says 1/8" wall diameter and it confused me a little. PS - I really wish they had solid red tubing at frozencpu









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/80...P-CPF-CC5.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/72..._-_UV_Red.html


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Alright so I'm thinking about getting these fittings and this tubing, just curious if they will fit and match properly. I'm only asking because the tubing says 1/8" wall diameter and it confused me a little. PS - I really wish they had solid red tubing at frozencpu









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/80...P-CPF-CC5.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/72..._-_UV_Red.html


Those will work. 1/8" thickness tubing x 2 = 1/4" total added to the diameter. 1/2" + 1/4" = 3/4".


----------



## Crabby654

Oh ok perfect, thank you. Hopefully those tubes won't look pink or anything funny like that because I do have an awful lot of red led lights in my case.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13242910*
> Depends on how u run the tube and design of ur tube to make ur rig look nice....
> 
> But on performace wise its just the same coz its only cpu loop..


So I can run pump>rad>cpu>res and cooling it the same? That would look best.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;13246607*
> So I can run pump>rad>cpu>res and cooling it the same? That would look best.


Yes


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Thought I would try
Anyone with the kit and an 2500/2600 at around 4.7 can give me temps that would be great. I'm peaking at 61c after 3 hours but I had to turn on my heater and temps in my house went up about 4f. Just trying to figure out how my kit/Overclock is. Thanks and goodnight.



I'm close to that setup (look at sig). After hours if gaming I am usually around 38c. If it is a hot day it may be in the low 40s.

I have both my CPU and GPU under water.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Ill have to monitor my temps while gaming today. Don't ever pay attention to em really unless I'm stressing


----------



## RonB94GT

Did a quick test 1 hr prime 95. temps 46c. That was only a 6c drop from my H50. Was I expecting to much? Used AS5 I heard that has a long qure time.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;13257328*
> Did a quick test 1 hr prime 95. temps 46c. That was only a 6c drop from my H50. Was I expecting to much? Used AS5 I heard that has a long qure time.


5 to 10c drop is about right for most people. I got a 10c drop from my H50


----------



## Blue Destroyer

thought i would update you guys. my xspc has went silent....dotn know why/how but it is not dead silent lol. Just an FYI, yes, the pump is working. just running silent now.


----------



## wetfit9

That is a good thing, maybe it just got all of the bubbles out of the system.


----------



## Fuddy

what did u guys replace your tubing with? it's been 2 weeks and I can already see my tubes yellowing


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


5 to 10c drop is about right for most people. I got a 10c drop from my H50










I got a 12 C drop from my H50 (and that was after doing every performance improving mod I could to the H50)


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


what did u guys replace your tubing with? it's been 2 weeks and I can already see my tubes yellowing


I used Feser One blue UV 1/2" ID tubing. Been running now for 4 months and tubing is as good as the day I bought it. Very happy with it.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Feser red UV here. Great stuff


----------



## killeraxemannic

What kind of load temps at 4.5 ghz 2500k would I expect to see with this setup? I know that my roommates air cooler runs at 70deg. How much would the 240 kit beat it by? Thats all I have room for in my case.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


Feser red UV here. Great stuff


Does that Feser UV hose stain you hands when you handle it? I saw that on a website that was clearing it out. Thought that was weird


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*


What kind of load temps at 4.5 ghz 2500k would I expect to see with this setup? I know that my roommates air cooler runs at 70deg. How much would the 240 kit beat it by? Thats all I have room for in my case.


Depends on ambient & the amount of voltage. But I would say ~55C.


----------



## Quccu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


what did u guys replace your tubing with? it's been 2 weeks and I can already see my tubes yellowing


My tubes have yellowed after about two weeks too. Does this affect performance or anything else? Do I need to replace my tubes too?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quccu*


My tubes have yellowed after about two weeks too. Does this affect performance or anything else? Do I need to replace my tubes too?


No, unless its something growing inside the tubes. That would affect you over time. Most hate discolored tubing, so they switch it out.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quccu*


My tubes have yellowed after about two weeks too. Does this affect performance or anything else? Do I need to replace my tubes too?


No. It doesn't effect performance. Like I stated in the FAQ. It's just something called Plasticizer. If you want to learn more about it, Google it. You don't have to replace the tubing, but you can if you wish.

Now if you're going to replace the tubing with any other clear tubing. Then I suggest getting Tygon tubing that doesn't have plasticizer. I forgot what it's called, it's not at the top of my head.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


No. It doesn't effect performance. Like I stated in the FAQ. It's just something called Plasticizer. If you want to learn more about it, Google it. You don't have to replace the tubing, but you can if you wish.

Now if you're going to replace the tubing with any other clear tubing. Then I suggest getting Tygon tubing that doesn't have plasticizer. I forgot what it's called, it's not at the top of my head.


Tygon 2001 tubing I believe. It isn't cheap from what I remember.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Tygon 2001 tubing I believe. It isn't cheap from what I remember.


You're correct. Tygon 2001.
http://www.tygon.com/tygon-2001-tubing.aspx

Not sure about the price, but I'm sure it ain't cheap. But if you really want clear tubing and don't want it turning colors. I guess it's the price you pay. lol.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


You're correct. Tygon 2001.
http://www.tygon.com/tygon-2001-tubing.aspx

Not sure about the price, but I'm sure it ain't cheap. But if you really want clear tubing and don't want it turning colors. I guess it's the price you pay. lol.



I love the smell of clear plasticizer free tubing in the morning!!!


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Did a quick test 1 hr prime 95. temps 46c. That was only a 6c drop from my H50. Was I expecting to much? Used AS5 I heard that has a long qure time.


If you're still on a stock clock, then you shouldn't expect too much. The H50 can handle a stock 2500K without sweating. Push it to 4.8ghz at 1.35-1.40volts and see how it goes.


----------



## macca_dj

Rs-240 rad
View attachment 207419

Tj10 semi stripped
View attachment 207421

Tj10 Res in
View attachment 207422

A Shot of the loop
View attachment 207423


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Does that Feser UV hose stain you hands when you handle it? I saw that on a website that was clearing it out. Thought that was weird


What the...







That is the craziest thing I ever heard. Don't beleive all the videos on You Tube. No my hands are just fine and I've handled it a lot.


----------



## yoyo711

I'm 4.85Ghz @ 1.43v ide is 39c. is this usual ???????
I have olny my CPU under water. 
my room temp is 70F

Thanks


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


What the...







That is the craziest thing I ever heard. Don't beleive all the videos on You Tube. No my hands are just fine and I've handled it a lot.










Not making it up. Its the 3/8 hose at Daz. Not sure what happened there.
http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=243


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


I'm 4.85Ghz @ 1.43v ide is 39c. is this usual ???????
I have olny my CPU under water. 
my room temp is 70F

Thanks


Idle means absolutely nothing. What are your load temps?


----------



## Quccu

Hi guys, this is my first time going water cooling and I purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 Kit. Here's a pic of it inside my Silverstone RV02 case, and I would like some opinions on fan issues below if you can help =)










1. I'm planning on replacing fan 03 and 04 (stock kit fans) with GT AP15 1850rpm fans and I'm dead set on it to use as pull, good idea?

2. My case is the original Silverstone RV02 case not the RV02-E, so it has the original 180mm fans at the bottom and not the air penetrator fans.
a) Should I replace fan 01 and 02 with Silverstone AP181 Air Penetrator 180mm fans, or;
b) take out fan 01 and 02 and put in 2 GT AP15 1850rpm fans underneath radiator. (There will be some gaps here and there as GT fans are 120mm)
c) Do nothing. Leave it as it is.

3. Should I also replace fan 05 with GT AP15?

Other notes: Also I'd like to point out that even though moving my graphics card a PCI-e slot to the left, it still pushes a lot of heat into my radiator and fan 01. I've already ordered an External Exhaust style GTX 570 which is coming soon. So I think its a flaw with this case if you watercool with you radiator next to non EE graphics card. Hopefully, I'll get better temps when that comes.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13271384*
> Not making it up. Its the 3/8 hose at Daz. Not sure what happened there.
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=134&products_id=243


That is odd. Seems to be only the red 3/8". I order mine from Dazmode as well but I have the 1/2" blue UV and there are no issues with it. Good on Dazmode for putting that out there when they could have just kept quite until they got rid of their stock (like some others would have done). Dazmode is an awesome retailer.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quccu;13274750*
> Hi guys, this is my first time going water cooling and I purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 Kit. Here's a pic of it inside my Silverstone RV02 case, and I would like some opinions on fan issues below if you can help =)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I'm planning on replacing fan 03 and 04 (stock kit fans) with GT AP15 1850rpm fans and I'm dead set on it to use as pull, good idea?
> 
> 2. My case is the original Silverstone RV02 case not the RV02-E, so it has the original 180mm fans at the bottom and not the air penetrator fans.
> a) Should I replace fan 01 and 02 with Silverstone AP181 Air Penetrator 180mm fans, or;
> b) take out fan 01 and 02 and put in 2 GT AP15 1850rpm fans underneath radiator. (There will be some gaps here and there as GT fans are 120mm)
> c) Do nothing. Leave it as it is.
> 
> 3. Should I also replace fan 05 with GT AP15?
> 
> Other notes: Also I'd like to point out that even though moving my graphics card a PCI-e slot to the left, it still pushes a lot of heat into my radiator and fan 01. I've already ordered an External Exhaust style GTX 570 which is coming soon. So I think its a flaw with this case if you watercool with you radiator next to non EE graphics card. Hopefully, I'll get better temps when that comes.


Fans 1 and 2 are fine as is especially if you're replacing 3 and 4 with GTs. Remember that the RX rads only need low to medium speed fans because of the extra wide fin spacing. Anything more is really not worth it.

For 5 no need to replace with GT unless your current fan is too noisy. GTs work best on rad because of their ability to push air through a restriction (i.e. rad). In an open case scenario your not going to get more air flow then most other cheaper fans like a Yate loon or whatever.

My only other observation is that you'll have a lot of hot air that needs to be expelled quickly. Can you put more than one fan on the top? A min of 2 X 120mm or 140mm fans (highest speed possible at a comfortable noise level) would work much better to exhaust all that hot air out of your case.


----------



## Moheevi_chess

Just ordered my RS240 kit



































I should have it on Friday!


----------



## Quccu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


My only other observation is that you'll have a lot of hot air that needs to be expelled quickly. Can you put more than one fan on the top? A min of 2 X 120mm or 140mm fans (highest speed possible at a comfortable noise level) would work much better to exhaust all that hot air out of your case.


There is only space to put 1 x 120mm fan at the top (horizontally). I can put 2 x 120mm fan but that would be one on top of the other (vertically) in push/pull configuration type.

What fan would you recommend then for the top? GT AP15?


----------



## rushino

Finished my build ! http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...completed.html


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Moheevi_chess*


Just ordered my RS240 kit



































I should have it on Friday!


grats...now dont forget to take some pix =)


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quccu*


There is only space to put 1 x 120mm fan at the top (horizontally). I can put 2 x 120mm fan but that would be one on top of the other (vertically) in push/pull configuration type.

What fan would you recommend then for the top? GT AP15?


You need a fan with a high CFM. Sythe SFF 21G puts out 75 cfm and is still pretty quiet. The AP-15 puts out 32 CFM. But you have lots of depth there. I'd go for at least a 38mm fan. If you want to go inexpensive I'd say a Sythe Ulta Kaze 2000 rpm which puts out 87.63 CFM and is not too bad or the Sythe Slip Stream SY1225SL12H-P puts out 110 CFM which would do the trick and is not too noisy. If you really like GTs then the GT AP 30 puts out 116 CFM. Do a bit a research and go for as high a CFM as you can with the max noise you will tolerate for that number 5 fan. Just remember it has to expel the hot air from all your other fans.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


You need a fan with a high CFM. Sythe SFF 21G puts out 75 cfm and is still pretty quiet. The AP-15 puts out 32 CFM. But you have lots of depth there. I'd go for at least a 38mm fan. If you want to go inexpensive I'd say a Sythe Ulta Kaze 2000 rpm which puts out 87.63 CFM and is not too bad or the Sythe Slip Stream SY1225SL12H-P puts out 110 CFM which would do the trick and is not too noisy. If you really like GTs then the GT AP 30 puts out 116 CFM. Do a bit a research and go for as high a CFM as you can with the max noise you will tolerate for that number 5 fan. Just remember it has to expel the hot air from all your other fans.


















Huh, AP-15s are 57.6cfm, not 32CFM


----------



## mbudden

Hey guys, the Mod of the Month is up. If you have the time, go vote!
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...come-vote.html


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13286044*
> Hey guys, the Mod of the Month is up. If you have the time, go vote!
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/987463-april-motm-poll-up-come-vote.html


That Legos build is trippin!!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13286044*
> Hey guys, the Mod of the Month is up. If you have the time, go vote!
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/987463-april-motm-poll-up-come-vote.html


YES! Go vote! =P


----------



## sabawballs

hi just want to share. just installed my Rasa 750 (240 kit) and it was my first time installing water cooling. IMHO i didnt know what to do first. lol. so it took me around full 6-8 hours of work to complete a very simple loop. XD

currently on bleeding mode


----------



## Nytehawk

How are you guys wiring the fans on an externally mounted rad? are you cutting the ends and splicing them together? Or using one of these:


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabawballs;13286977*
> hi just want to share. just installed my Rasa 750 (240 kit) and it was my first time installing water cooling. IMHO i didnt know what to do first. lol. so it took me around full 6-8 hours of work to complete a very simple loop. XD


Nice work! I'm not sure if I want black tubing and blue anti-kink or blue tubing so I can see the flow inside.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13287931*
> Nice work! I'm not sure if I want black tubing and blue anti-kink or blue tubing so I can see the flow inside.


you can't see water flowing inside the tubing. Sad I know, but you can't.

And on your question about external rads. I know most guys use extensions and then just route all the wires along one side and wrap them together as a single cable. But if you wanted to splice them together that would work too.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13287862*
> How are you guys wiring the fans on an externally mounted rad? are you cutting the ends and splicing them together? Or using one of these:


Myself for my 3 push fans (GT AP-15's) mounted externally, 2 of the leads are just long enough to reach the mobo fan headers, while on the 3rd I used a 12"extension http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11779/cab-371/Akasa_PWM_Extension_Fan_Cable_-_300mm_AK-CBFA01-30.html?tl=g2c251s637 which also goes to a fan header .

Than for the 3 pull fans (also GT AP-15's) I'm using 2 of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1090/cab-05/3-pin_Y_Cable_Splitter.html?tl=g2c251s635 and connecting to a molex plug with a molex to 3 pin adapter that came with the fan. If I didn't have so many fans connected to the mobo already (8 all together, 5 case and 3 radiator) I would have just used the Y splitters right at the mobo and run 2 fans per header. But I'm not comfortable with 11 fans directly to the mobo lol.


----------



## sabawballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13287862*
> How are you guys wiring the fans on an externally mounted rad? are you cutting the ends and splicing them together? Or using one of these:


didnt splice any wires. the fans of the kit came with actually long ones so i just wrapped them around to each other making it look like one then placing it on the last pci slot cover then to the hole of mobo tray where the usb and hd audio wires comes out. not sure if you can see it through this picture


----------



## lotdash0t

im planning to get rasa. sorry if the question has been asked so many times. why rs and rx have a hugeee difference in price tag? something to do with the fin? and if i bought rasa kit, am I ready to go? I heard that the pump is not very well. is it true? what else do I need to change?

thanks


----------



## sabawballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lotdash0t;13289455*
> im planning to get rasa. sorry if the question has been asked so many times. why rs and rx have a hugeee difference in price tag? something to do with the fin? and if i bought rasa kit, am I ready to go? I heard that the pump is not very well. is it true? what else do I need to change?
> 
> thanks


the rad of the RX is almost double the width of the RS meaning it will run cooler.

regarding the pump, it is already good enough to start with. You dont need to worry since everything comes already.

But it depends on you, if you think you will be adding/changing other parts, you might be better off to a custom LCS meaning buy the parts piece by piece depending on your preference since it will cost lesser comparing on buying the rasa kit then upgrade it all.


----------



## lotdash0t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabawballs;13289567*
> the rad of the RX is almost double the width of the RS meaning it will run cooler.
> 
> regarding the pump, it is already good enough to start with. You dont need to worry since everything comes already.
> 
> But it depends on you, if you think you will be adding/changing other parts, you might be better off to a custom LCS meaning buy the parts piece by piece depending on your preference since it will cost lesser comparing on buying the rasa kit then upgrade it all.


thanks for the reply. i have no idea whatsoever how to do all the wc so i guess buying the kit is my best option. I did read about wc but there are so many terminology.made me confused even more. apart from rasa, what other manufacturer have the kit for sell?

im plannig to grab nzxt phantom or haf-x, do you think 360 rad will fit internally without modding the case?


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lotdash0t;13289692*
> thanks for the reply. i have no idea whatsoever how to do all the wc so i guess buying the kit is my best option. I did read about wc but there are so many terminology.made me confused even more. apart from rasa, what other manufacturer have the kit for sell?
> 
> im plannig to grab nzxt phantom or haf-x, do you think 360 rad will fit internally without modding the case?


What's wrong with your current case?


----------



## lotdash0t

many reasons why i hate it

1- small case
2-bad cable management
3- hard disk bay sucks
4-no space for mounting backplate

i only pleased with the airflow. and blue led fan. and i dont think 360 rad can mount in this case internally lol


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lotdash0t*


thanks for the reply. i have no idea whatsoever how to do all the wc so i guess buying the kit is my best option. I did read about wc but there are so many terminology.made me confused even more. apart from rasa, what other manufacturer have the kit for sell?

im plannig to grab nzxt phantom or haf-x, do you think 360 rad will fit internally without modding the case?


Ok on the nzxt phantom u need to mod the top to put a 360 on it and in the buttom part of the case u need to take out the hard drive bay to fit a 240 rad..

On the hafx i believe u can fit a 360 rad on top but ull sacrifice the first top 5 1/4 bay u got..


----------



## lotdash0t

is there any gaming look cases that are capable to fit 360 rad without modding it? i fail on modding cases


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lotdash0t;13290483*
> is there any gaming look cases that are capable to fit 360 rad without modding it? i fail on modding cases


Will be a bit pricier though...

Cooler Master HAF 932 does. I am pretty sure the HAF X does also but not sure if you could go with a push/pull fan configuration on it though as you could with the 932. Runs around $120-170 more or less.

I believe the Corsair 800D does as well but maybe someone could confirm for us. Maybe in the $280's or so...


----------



## alpsie

These kits is basicly just for the CPU right? 
no GPU blocks in the kits.


----------



## ezveedub

The easiest case to install a RX360 radiator is a the HAF-932. The HAF-X will accept the RS360 with the same spacing clearance at the top as the HAF-932. With a RX360 in a HAF-X, it will overhang the motherboard slightly, but still fits. 800D cost more than all of the HAF cases and will accept a rad in the roof just like the HAF cases, but can also take an additional 120 in the floor. To get a 240 in the bottom, you need to mod the case.

IMO, the simplest case to use a RX360 kit in is the HAF-932


----------



## lotdash0t

thanks guy +rep
if i want to buy gpu block, do I need to grab a new rad? or can I just connect it to the rad of cpu? sorry if it sounds stupid


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpsie;13290545*
> These kits is basicly just for the CPU right?
> no GPU blocks in the kits.


This kit contains just the cpu block..no gpu...

But if u want to buy a gpu block u can loop it with this kit..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lotdash0t*


thanks guy +rep 
if i want to buy gpu block, do I need to grab a new rad? or can I just connect it to the rad of cpu? sorry if it sounds stupid


Well if ur getting a RX360 kit then ull push the limit of the rad but u can get away just 1 rx360 with OK temps in pudh/pull confige..

But if u want security with great cooling on both blocks it doesnt hurt to put a 240 rad or another 360







..

For best result 1rad per block







-overkill-


----------



## lotdash0t

so i just need to add one rad for the gpu right? or do i need to buy one more pump?or what other component do i need to add?


----------



## Dissentience

The kit is taking my 2600k quite well!


----------



## adamwzl

lotdashot, You really dont need another rad, adding the 6950 with your cpu in a 360mm rad will be just fine. One 240 or even 360 per block is really overkill haha.

Now your not going to break any temp records, but it will work out fine. Just make sure you have a good push/pull fan setup. Id say an ambient of 70f will yield about 65-70c max temp while under full load, for both the cpu & gpu.

Also Havok lives in FL, its hott all year round. He needs 1 rad per block


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lotdash0t*


so i just need to add one rad for the gpu right? or do i need to buy one more pump?or what other component do i need to add?


Pump can handle 2 block...3 block will be in the "pushing the limit ofthe pump" but still u got good flow on ur loop with the stock pump..but 4 and 5 definitely u need a new stronger pump..

On rads for my opinion get u another rad for optimize cooling


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adamwzl*


lotdashot, You really dont need another rad, adding the 6950 with your cpu in a 360mm rad will be just fine. One 240 or even 360 per block is really overkill haha.

Now your not going to break any temp records, but it will work out fine. Just make sure you have a good push/pull fan setup. Id say an ambient of 70f will yield about 65-70c max temp while under full load, for both the cpu & gpu.

Also Havok lives in FL, its hott all year round. He needs 1 rad per block










Omg u are correct sir..93c ambient is not fun at all..wahahaha..my 4.2ghz with 2 rads and 3 block setup heats up pretty good..on peak ambient it can run on 40's idle but on 70-75 ambient it runs at 34-35c idle..so its hot hear definitly..


----------



## adamwzl

haha yea most definitely, what type of fans are you running?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adamwzl*


haha yea most definitely, what type of fans are you running?


Im using yateloon 1400rpms and cm r4 sickle flow 2000rpms..


----------



## adamwzl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Im using yateloon 1400rpms and cm r4 sickle flow 2000rpms..


geez, do you have air conditioning at your place? lol


----------



## ht_addict

Need to buy some tubing for adding my gpu to the loop. Does Home depot sell anything good? Prefer Black 7/16(ID)x5/8(OD)


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Need to buy some tubing for adding my gpu to the loop. Does Home depot sell anything good? Prefer Black 7/16(ID)x5/8(OD)


I doubt your will find "good" tubing at Home Depot. They only sell clear vinyl tubing and maybe fiber reinforced tubing at best. Just purchase PrimoFlex 7/16"ID-5/8"OD from Amazon or Jab-Tech.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I doubt your will find "good" tubing at Home Depot. They only sell clear vinyl tubing and maybe fiber reinforced tubing at best. Just purchase PrimoFlex 7/16"ID-5/8"OD from Amazon or Jab-Tech.


+1 on the primoflex tubing from amazon, its what I put into the katharos mod, very bendable.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lotdash0t*


so i just need to add one rad for the gpu right? or do i need to buy one more pump?or what other component do i need to add?


Stock pump will work fine for RX360 and GPU + CPU in the same loop. If you want to switch pumps, you will have to piece the kit together, which will cost more and get more complicated IF you don't know what parts you need. Most just get different tubing (PrimoFlex) and will add a T-block with 3 extra 1/2" barbs to the loop so you can drain your system when you need to.


----------



## adamwzl

depending on where you live, microcenter sells primoflex and other brands tubing as well.


----------



## Nytehawk

Primoflex's 1/2" ID has a 3/4" OD? I thought standard OD was 5/8". Think this will be a big deal if I have 5/8" clamps on 3/4" OD tubing? Just extra snug?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nytehawk*


Primoflex's 1/2" ID has a 3/4" OD? I thought standard OD was 5/8". Think this will be a big deal if I have 5/8" clamps on 3/4" OD tubing? Just extra snug?


Yes, 1/2"I'D tubing is usually 3/4" OD (most tubing is 1/8" wall thickness). If you're replacing stock tubing from the XSPC kit, you use 7/16" ID tubing. If you use 1/2ID", you must use clamps or you will get leaks. Stock kit clamps don't fit either if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

well now a full week of silent operations from my pump...making me think i really need to get a gpu waterblock and another rad and hook up my other pump/res combo and make it a dedicated gpu loop LOL.


----------



## wetfit9

anyone here with pictures of a 932 case with a RX360 up top?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


anyone here with pictures of a 932 case with a RX360 up top?


Here's mine. The links are in the first post spreadsheet of owners. I'm using all the bays also. My Sunbeamtech fan controller fits in the top bay with the Rad/fans there. More room in the roof than the HAF-X. HAF-X will hold a XL-ATX motherboard though from I remember, so the mobo panel is shifted higher.

http://www.overclock.net/12262922-post3619.html

http://www.overclock.net/12602992-post4764.html

http://www.overclock.net/12797314-post5453.html


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer*


well now a full week of silent operations from my pump...making me think i really need to get a gpu waterblock and another rad and hook up my other pump/res combo and make it a dedicated gpu loop LOL.


Go for it bro....hehe..if u got the space..

Dedicated pump/res will be nice coz u know ull get the right amount or more on ur flowrate..


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Here's mine. The links are in the first post spreadsheet of owners. I'm using all the bays also. My Sunbeamtech fan controller fits in the top bay with the Rad/fans there. More room in the roof than the HAF-X. HAF-X will hold a XL-ATX motherboard though from I remember, so the mobo panel is shifted higher.

http://www.overclock.net/12262922-post3619.html

http://www.overclock.net/12602992-post4764.html

http://www.overclock.net/12797314-post5453.html



Thanks a lot, I wish the haf x had the same amount of room up top. Also, how do you like that SLI water link. I have the same one, just have not use it yet as my second card is still be repaired. Was it hard to put on and any suggestions when installing.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nytehawk*


Primoflex's 1/2" ID has a 3/4" OD? I thought standard OD was 5/8". Think this will be a big deal if I have 5/8" clamps on 3/4" OD tubing? Just extra snug?


Are u talking about the stock clamps??

If yes,,it Should fit..coz u can open it wide ...

but if ur talking about spring clamps my answer is NO...

If ur using screw in clamps try to open it wide and check..but i think it will fit..


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Are u talking about the stock clamps??

If yes,,it Should fit..coz u can open it wide ...

but if ur talking about spring clamps my answer is NO...

If ur using screw in clamps try to open it wide and check..but i think it will fit..


Have you tried the stock clamps? I know they make 5/8" clamps, but I never tried 1/2"ID-3/4"OD on 1/2" barbs with the stock XSPC clamps yet. Wasn't sure about it fitting.


----------



## Lutro0

Something to keep in mind when using the spring clamps is it doesnt need to just clear the hose but the hose on the barb as well. That might be common sense but that didnt stop me from getting a size too small once. =)


----------



## wetfit9

Ok, now with anyone with a RX360 in top of a HAF X and possible a 120 Rad on the back


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Thanks a lot, I wish the haf x had the same amount of room up top. Also, how do you like that SLI water link. I have the same one, just have not use it yet as my second card is still be repaired. Was it hard to put on and any suggestions when installing.


No issues at all. Just make sure you put the correct o-rings on for the F-Connectors and SLI bridge. They are slightly different if you look closely. Also make sure you use the 20mm bolt in the lower right corner where the side threaded port is. The other 3 are 16mm long. It's all in the instructions, but easy to get mixed up if you don't pay attention. I'm waiting for my EK 6970 block to arrive tomorrow. I will be using that SLI bridge for a 6990 + 6970 water loop. EK said they line up, so I will see tomorrow.

Also if any one is interested in those 6870s in the pictures, let me know. I'm selling them. Only used for a month.


----------



## RonB94GT

Add me please. I thought my loop was going to look good but don't like it. When it comes time to clean it I'm going to get some compressions and change it. I think I need to filp the CPU black 90 deg.? When I get my other 5850 back form RMA going to work on cable management.


----------



## Lutro0

Anyone know a good midtower case that can fit a rs240 internal?


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Anyone know a good midtower case that can fit a rs240 internal?


Corsair Obsidian 650d?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Ok, now with anyone with a RX360 in top of a HAF X and possible a 120 Rad on the back


I know you can with a HAF 932. RX360 with push fans + RX120 with push fan


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13295889*
> I know you can with a HAF 932. RX360 with push fans + RX120 with push fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Hi, thanks, is there anyway you can show a picture of the tubes up front. I have been sitting here looking at mines trying to see what will work best. Just want to see how much room the tubing take up with the RAD turned with the bar's up front. Thanks ahead of time.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13295778*
> Anyone know a good midtower case that can fit a rs240 internal?


650D or 600t by corsair..small but great..


----------



## wetfit9

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone here for sharing information. It has been a help to a noob like myself.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13296489*
> Can an RX fit in the top of a 800D


yep it does ^_^


----------



## Nytehawk

I was going to buy some Koolance spring clamps, which are for 5/8" OD, but if I go with the blue Primoflex from Amazon, 1/2" ID is 3/4" OD, but I see that 7/16" ID is the right 5/8" OD.

Problem solved: http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Blue-Tubing-16in-8in/dp/B0041LW5I4/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1303941746&sr=8-16]7/16" ID 5/8" OD Primoflex[/URL] with 5/8" Koolance spring clamps.

Everyone think 10' is enough for an externally mounted Rasa RS360 rad with a CPU+GPU in an Antec 900?


----------



## Nytehawk

Is it pretty much mandatory to buy a splitter and add it to the loop for draining the system?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13296673*
> Is it pretty much mandatory to buy a splitter and add it to the loop for draining the system?


Mandatory, no, but a lot easier to drain, trust me. I use the Bitspower block with three 1/2" barbs on my lowest line in the loop. Now if you have a GPU block, like an EK full cover, you can use one of the ports on the bottom and add a barb with a hose to the bottom of your case with a drain valve. I slip a bowl under the drain and get most of the coolant out this way.


----------



## Havoknova

@morbein

yo dude do u have any bench rack??

thinking about goin extreme and go with this:

~~as my rack..

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12723/cst-1091/HSPC_HPTX_Top_Deck_Deluxe_Tech_Station_-_Black_HPTX.html?tl=g1c7s436

and my watercooling rack:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12174/cas-416/Danger_Den_External_3_x_360_Radiator_Liquid_Cooling_Housing_Enclosure_CAS-EX10-2.html?tl=g1c7s532

or this :

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12653/ex-rad-222/Phobya_Radiator_Housing_Stand_-_Triple_3_x_120mm_4_x_180mm_Bench_Edition_38191.html?tl=g1c7s532#blank

what you guys think?>?


----------



## iinversion

Ok, So I'm going to get the Rasa RS240 but that doesn't come with everything. I'm ordering from FrozenPC, and the OP says I need a silver killcoil & distilled water. Is it safe to get the colored distilled water? And I have no idea what a killcoil is so recommendations are good


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13297108*
> @morbein
> 
> yo dude do u have any bench rack??
> 
> thinking about goin extreme and go with this:
> 
> ~~as my rack..
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12723/cst-1091/HSPC_HPTX_Top_Deck_Deluxe_Tech_Station_-_Black_HPTX.html?tl=g1c7s436
> 
> and my watercooling rack:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12174/cas-416/Danger_Den_External_3_x_360_Radiator_Liquid_Cooling_Housing_Enclosure_CAS-EX10-2.html?tl=g1c7s532
> 
> or this :
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12653/ex-rad-222/Phobya_Radiator_Housing_Stand_-_Triple_3_x_120mm_4_x_180mm_Bench_Edition_38191.html?tl=g1c7s532#blank
> 
> what you guys think?>?


You trying to get away from cases?


----------



## Crabby654

So I got my 1/2 inch compression fittings and 1/2 ID tubing today. I had a quick question, I havent installed or done anything yet, but I put one of the compression fittings on the end of the tubing and was screwing the other end over the tubing like normal. Is it normally suppose to be that tight of a fit? I guess I am nervous of the fitting cutting the tubing.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13297357*
> You trying to get away from cases?


pretty much....

what u think bro is it good??


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13297502*
> pretty much....
> 
> what u think bro is it good??


I have a lian li PC T60, I barely use it though, if you want some kind of test bench, go for the torture rack









http://photos.dangerden.com/Cases/Torture-Rack/8214344_aGR8Q#687825739_w7quf

one of the best looking open air cases i've ever seen, shame i cant get any here in UK >.>

Check what this guy did, here from OCN ^_^









http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/584302-ocn-water-cooling-club-picture-gallery-565.html#post11454661


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;13297560*
> I have a lian li PC T60, I barely use it though, if you want some kind of test bench, go for the torture rack
> 
> well can u fit a E-ATX on that bench?? (pct t60)
> 
> and how much is that toture rack from DD??


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13297502*
> pretty much....
> 
> what u think bro is it good??


It's nice and easy to work on, but it's getting up to the price of the Case Labs cases if not more. You can remove the mobo tray on M8/M10 and use them as a separate tray/stand too. But is all depends if you really want to use a test bench or rack instead of case.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13297654*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MorbEIn;13297560*
> I have a lian li PC T60, I barely use it though, if you want some kind of test bench, go for the torture rack
> 
> well can u fit a E-ATX on that bench?? (pct t60)
> 
> and how much is that toture rack from DD??
> 
> 
> 
> The Torture Rack runs about $150-$160 I think.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/DangerDen/Torture_rack/
Click to expand...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13297667*
> It's nice and easy to work on, but it's getting up to the price of the Case Labs cases if not more. You can remove the mobo tray on M8/M10 and use them as a separate tray/stand too. But is all depends if you really want to use a test bench or rack instead of case.


Thats true...but i want it laying down now...much easier to work on and easy to change stuff on it...


----------



## stonedzen

Count me in the club....

XSPC 750 pump/res
XSPC CPU Block
XSPC Universal GPU Block
Rasa RS240 x2


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13297709*
> Thats true...but i want it laying down now...much easier to work on and easy to change stuff on it...


Are you using just ATX mobo or larger? If its just ATX, the TortureRack is fine.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stonedzen;13297853*
> Count me in the club....
> 
> XSPC 750 pump/res
> XSPC CPU Block
> XSPC Universal GPU Block
> Rasa RS240 x2


welcome to the club...

just wait for mbudden to login so she can u add u up kk =) nice loop btw...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13297967*
> Are you using just ATX mobo or larger? If its just ATX, the TortureRack is fine.


i got a E-ATX MB

crosshair IV extreme mb by asus


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13297974*
> welcome to the club...
> 
> just wait for mbudden to login so she can u add u up kk =) nice loop btw...


Wait mbudden is a girl?


----------



## Spykerv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra;13298446*
> Wait mbudden is a girl?


O_e' twitch twitch..


----------



## Adappy

Couple noob questions...

I'm planning on buying the RX240 kit sometime during the summer, adding a waterblock for my GTX 580 (been looking at the EK full cover block) and a second radiator to use in addition to the RX240 that comes with the kit. Most likely an RX 120, maybe a second RX240 if I can save up the money
a) is the pump that comes with the RX240 kit going to be enough with the added stuff? and b) does the kit come with enough tubing to do this, or will I need to buy more?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *citra*


wait mbudden is a girl?


lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


Wait mbudden is a girl?


Really, I didn't see this coming






























Anyways, I need to update my info, if I'm still allowed in this club









-Two RX480 radiators
-one XSPC DDC top acrylic

tis all I has from xspc now


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


Wait mbudden is a girl?


I totally didn't know that. wow.

That just makes her even more epic for starting an epic club like this.


----------



## Crabby654

I thought someone said "He" referring to mbudden before! Super crazy


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Really, I didn't see this coming






























Anyways, I need to update my info, if I'm still allowed in this club









-Two RX480 radiators
-one XSPC DDC top acrylic

tis all I has from xspc now










Welcome or not..ur rig taste the rasa so ur still in on my books..lolz..wahahaha...and those 480's are freakin bricks bro..wahahah..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Adappy*


Couple noob questions...

I'm planning on buying the RX240 kit sometime during the summer, adding a waterblock for my GTX 580 (been looking at the EK full cover block) and a second radiator to use in addition to the RX240 that comes with the kit. Most likely an RX 120, maybe a second RX240 if I can save up the money
a) is the pump that comes with the RX240 kit going to be enough with the added stuff? and b) does the kit come with enough tubing to do this, or will I need to buy more?


Better of save ur money and buy ur second rad a 360...or another 240...no 120's its just too small for what u want to do...

But on the other hand if ur just goin to water cool with no OC or no major OC then u can get away with 120rad..but with OC involve go with a fatty rad..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


I totally didn't know that. wow.

That just makes her even more epic for starting an epic club like this.


Is he a she or is she a he..???!!!

Nahh it cant be..

Coz if his a she but she is a he then how come that 1 person called her a he but not he nor she???!!!

So confusing internet can be...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I thought someone said "He" referring to mbudden before! Super crazy


Say what???? Mbudden got punani??? Wahahha


----------



## adamwzl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Adappy*


Couple noob questions...

I'm planning on buying the RX240 kit sometime during the summer, adding a waterblock for my GTX 580 (been looking at the EK full cover block) and a second radiator to use in addition to the RX240 that comes with the kit. Most likely an RX 120, maybe a second RX240 if I can save up the money
a) is the pump that comes with the RX240 kit going to be enough with the added stuff? and b) does the kit come with enough tubing to do this, or will I need to buy more?


Your case is nice to work with, go ahead get the rx240 kit and mount it to the top inside the case. Then grab another 240 and mount it at the bottom. Half of your HD bay disconnects by a few screws. You will have to remove it to add in the 240. Hopefully you dont have more than 3 HDs.

2x240 rads should run your SB and 580 pretty well. If you add in any other components you can only throw in a 120 rad at the rear or hang one off the back. Just make sure you get a good push/pull fan config. The pump should be fine for those 4 water cooling components. Once you go to 5+ you'd want to look into a better pump. Also make sure you get better tubing, grab 12ft of primochill or tygon tubing. Since your new to this more tubing the better.

EDIT: also water cooling is an addiction more worse than cigarettes. You'll find your self upgrading components based on if new water blocks are out for it. You will always order them together, install them together, stock fans = waste of time.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamwzl;13304866*
> Your case is nice to work with, go ahead get the rx240 kit and mount it to the top inside the case. Then grab another 240 and mount it at the bottom. Half of your HD bay disconnects by a few screws. You will have to remove it to add in the 240. Hopefully you dont have more than 3 HDs.
> 
> 2x240 rads should run your SB and 580 pretty well. If you add in any other components you can only throw in a 120 rad at the rear or hang one off the back. Just make sure you get a good push/pull fan config. The pump should be fine for those 4 water cooling components. Once you go to 5+ you'd want to look into a better pump. Also make sure you get better tubing, grab 12ft of primochill or tygon tubing. Since your new to this more tubing the better.
> 
> EDIT: also water cooling is an addiction more worse than cigarettes. You'll find your self upgrading components based on if new water blocks are out for it. You will always order them together, install them together, stock fans = waste of time.


RX240 is too thick to be put on top of CM 690, RS240 fits there.


----------



## t-ramp

Well, I'm getting a RS240 kit since PPCs ran out of the $60 EK gold blocks. Check out my log to see where it's going to end up eventually.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13304659*
> Welcome or not..ur rig taste the rasa so ur still in on my books..lolz..wahahaha...and those 480's are freakin bricks bro..wahahah..


Tnx. Two RX480 are not challenging if you evict the psu like I did to another location in the 800/700D


----------



## Havoknova

Looks awesome...

But im goin rack/bench on my rig now..

1 rack for my rig and 1 rack for my watercooling..

Will see how it goes..ill go with 2x360 and 1x240 on mine...ordered my racks already..coming next week.. Hehe


----------



## badatgames18

ADD ME!! finally got around to setting my wc rig straight... had to sell my rx rad and get a rs because i needed a cheap sound card... (my old one broke







)


----------



## thrasherht

So you guys think my rig would look good if I swapped out everything blue with white, and got white tubing, along with painting my Video card shroud white too?
I just don't know because of my motherboard. Maybe I will do that when I rebuild and I can color coordinate all my parts.


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra;13298446*
> Wait mbudden is a girl?


Havok slipped up! This is obviously a foreshadowing of 2012!!!






















then we all go LARPing against real zombies!


----------



## thrasherht

I beat it the day after it came out and didn't have the problem, so I don't think there was any bug.

and the OP wasn't a spoiler. Except if you think finding out about there being bombs is a spoiler. That is like saying finding out there are guns in COD is a spoiler.


----------



## Sainesk

1155 uses the same backplate as 1156 right?

I got my 2600k stuff so i'm going to give my rasa kit another shot, but I was rather discouraged after the first time when I got a leak during leak testing from the pump --> molex connector part of the res. Hopefully it's just a tightness issue but if not who do I contact, where I purchased from (Daz) or XSPC? and how's their customer support?


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;13314997*
> 1155 uses the same backplate as 1156 right?
> 
> I got my 2600k stuff so i'm going to give my rasa kit another shot, but I was rather discouraged after the first time when I got a leak during leak testing from the pump --> molex connector part of the res. Hopefully it's just a tightness issue but if not who do I contact, Daz or XSPC?


Yes they are the same backplate. And I believe you contact XSPC.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;13314997*
> 1155 uses the same backplate as 1156 right?
> 
> I got my 2600k stuff so i'm going to give my rasa kit another shot, but I was rather discouraged after the first time when I got a leak during leak testing from the pump --> molex connector part of the res. Hopefully it's just a tightness issue but if not who do I contact, where I purchased from (Daz) or XSPC? and how's their customer support?


contact xspc and they will send you a new pump for free most likely, then you will have two pumps, and you can just like seal up that leak with something and it will be a backup or use it for another loop.

My pump came cracked on the internal pump part, so no leaks, and they sent me a new one free, I used it for my secondary rig which has a modded H50 in it, and the xspc pump is running a GPU loop.


----------



## Adappy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mm67*


RX240 is too thick to be put on top of CM 690, RS240 fits there.


I was actually thinking about modding the case a bit... mounting the top rad on top of the top of the case... cutting a hole in the top mesh to fit it. The bottom fans will be inside the case, and the top fans will sit on top of the radiator. I'll try to get the tubing to go back down into the case by extending the top 140mm fan holes to fit... if all else fails I'll just use the grommets in the back. So it will be something like...

Top fan
Rad 
Case ceiling
Bottom fan
(motherboard)

Getting a RS240 with just one set of fans up top instead would be simpler/cheaper though. How much of a difference in temps would I get anyways? (planning on using Yate Loon Mediums all around for this build)


----------



## adamwzl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13310211*
> So you guys think my rig would look good if I swapped out everything blue with white, and got white tubing, along with painting my Video card shroud white too?
> I just don't know because of my motherboard. Maybe I will do that when I rebuild and I can color coordinate all my parts.


You should wait man and a do a whole color coordinated build on your next round. Use the Motherboard pcb color as your base idea.


----------



## adamwzl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adappy;13315291*
> I was actually thinking about modding the case a bit... mounting the top rad on top of the top of the case... cutting a hole in the top mesh to fit it. The bottom fans will be inside the case, and the top fans will sit on top of the radiator. I'll try to get the tubing to go back down into the case by extending the top 140mm fan holes to fit... if all else fails I'll just use the grommets in the back. So it will be something like...
> 
> Top fan
> Rad
> Case ceiling
> Bottom fan
> (motherboard)
> 
> Getting a RS240 with just one set of fans up top instead would be simpler/cheaper though. How much of a difference in temps would I get anyways? (planning on using Yate Loon Mediums all around for this build)


Thats not really a bad idea, mounting the rad on top of the case. Just get a dremel and cut out two holes for the tubes to go through. You can use the RX240 on top and the rs240 down at the bottom. If you do it that way. If you want internal just grab the rs240's.

I believe the RX cools better by 3-4c depending on airflow.


----------



## Kahbrohn

I need a reservoir ASAP. Anyone here using the new Primochill Myriad by any chance -and- how is it? Solidly built? I am interested in it because of the D5 pump mounting.


----------



## adamwzl

I use the XSPC dual bay res. Most of us here do as well. That primochill res seems new. Though very expensive.


----------



## adamwzl

the XSPC is about $30 cheaper

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_665&products_id=27998


----------



## mxthunder

I need some advice on how to drain my system. Everytime I need to flush or drain, I have to tip my case forward to empty it out of the res, and it doesnt get all the water out, and is a pain to do.
Is there some type of T fitting and plug that I could adapt into my lines to create a drain? I have plenty of extra primochill tubing to splice in.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;13318654*
> I need some advice on how to drain my system. Everytime I need to flush or drain, I have to tip my case forward to empty it out of the res, and it doesnt get all the water out, and is a pain to do.
> Is there some type of T fitting and plug that I could adapt into my lines to create a drain? I have plenty of extra primochill tubing to splice in.


You could get a T-line and plug between your CPU block and res that would let you drain pretty easily


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13318318*
> I need a reservoir ASAP. Anyone here using the new Primochill Myriad by any chance -and- how is it? Solidly built? I am interested in it because of the D5 pump mounting.


I would use the XSPC reservoir or the Koolance reservoir. The XSPC is the simplest and cheapest AIO bay reservoir. The Koolance is cool also because it allows you two loops off one reservoir or two pumps running in series for redundancy and additional flow/pressure. You just need to add the loop-back pipe to do series circuit and another D5 pump.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;13318654*
> I need some advice on how to drain my system. Everytime I need to flush or drain, I have to tip my case forward to empty it out of the res, and it doesnt get all the water out, and is a pain to do.
> Is there some type of T fitting and plug that I could adapt into my lines to create a drain? I have plenty of extra primochill tubing to splice in.


Res/pump > T > cpu block


----------



## mxthunder

Sweet, just ordered a T fitting and plug. Should be a nice little setup


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13319194*
> Res/pump > T > cpu block


I agree, but other thing I do is switch the CPU block so the inlet/outlet ports are vertical with inlet from the bottom. This way the flow completely runs downwards to drain the block more and lines a little more.

One other little tool I got is small hose clamps. I picked them up from Aquatuning when I bought some parts. Makes working on your loop easier, since you can block off the lines to prevent any small seepage dripping out when having the lines off.


----------



## mxthunder

just a couple more pics for fun


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I would use the XSPC reservoir or the Koolance reservoir. The XSPC is the simplest and cheapest AIO bay reservoir. The Koolance is cool also because it allows you two loops off one reservoir or two pumps running in series for redundancy and additional flow/pressure. You just need to add the loop-back pipe to do series circuit and another D5 pump.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *adamwzl*


I use the XSPC dual bay res. Most of us here do as well. That primochill res seems new. Though very expensive.



I agree... If you are referring to this res, then I would need to re-think my reasoning here and therefore my questions to you all. What I did neglect to state originally was that I would like it to go into the 5.25" bay area. HAF 932 has 6 bays. I am using 1 1/2 bays (my top mounted RS360 rad takes up about half the top bay area) leaving me with 5 1/2 bays. I can take up two bays and still have 2 1/2 bays. Thinking about a fan controller for the rad fans so that would fit in micely (I believe) in that top bay next to the rad. By being able to attach the D5 pump to it, I can free up that 120mm fan space on the bottom of my case, install a med/low speed YL in there and direct air to the GPU. If this works like it did in my old and venerable HAF 922, then I should see a 2-3 degree drop on my GPU card temp.

If I missed the res you are referring to, please link me to it? Thanks... I really really feel crappy here today. A nasty cold in the tropics really sux.

EDIT: Wait... I think I found it. This guy... That would do nicely. You all see what getting off one's buttocks does??? You find the answer without bugging others. :-D (Ignore me... my meds are kicking in and I am fighting them.)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


just a couple more pics for fun


Silly question here from me. I was reading up on what is and what isn't a reference video card. I read that when the power connectors are lined up as your vid card's is that that is a sign that it is a reference card. Am I right in my assumption?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


I agree... If you are referring to this res, then I would need to re-think my reasoning here and therefore my questions to you all. What I did neglect to state originally was that I would like it to go into the 5.25" bay area. HAF 932 has 6 bays. I am using 1 1/2 bays (my top mounted RS360 rad takes up about half the top bay area) leaving me with 5 1/2 bays. I can take up two bays and still have 2 1/2 bays. Thinking about a fan controller for the rad fans so that would fit in micely (I believe) in that top bay next to the rad. By being able to attach the D5 pump to it, I can free up that 120mm fan space on the bottom of my case, install a med/low speed YL in there and direct air to the GPU. If this works like it did in my old and venerable HAF 922, then I should see a 2-3 degree drop on my GPU card temp.

If I missed the res you are referring to, please link me to it? Thanks... I really really feel crappy here today. A nasty cold in the tropics really sux.

EDIT: Wait... I think I found it. This guy... That would do nicely. You all see what getting off one's buttocks does??? You find the answer without bugging others. :-D (Ignore me... my meds are kicking in and I am fighting them.)


That last link is the bay reservoir I was talking about. As fan controllers, the Sunbeamtech will fit in the top slot of a 932 case with your RS radiator. I have it in there with a RX radiator now. It has 6 controllers via PWM signal or manual control with 30 watts per channel. Not sure if it will handle a D5 pump though if your're trying to do that also.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Silly question here from me. I was reading up on what is and what isn't a reference video card. I read that when the power connectors are lined up as your vid card's is that that is a sign that it is a reference card. Am I right in my assumption?


No, that's no way to know reference from non reference cards. You have to check via part number or maybe use EK's website or TechPowerup's reference card pictures against the card you have. I only have reference cards, as they are the only ones you can get waterblocks for 99% of the time. I had to send back a HIS 6970 card because it was a version 2, but pictures on NewEgg showed it to be a version 1 reference card. Even HIS couldn't tell me from the part number, so back it went. Which card are you trying to find a reference design on?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


That last link is the bay reservoir I was talking about. As fan controllers, the Sunbeamtech will fit in the top slot of a 932 case with your RS radiator. I have it in there with a RX radiator now. It has 6 controllers via PWM signal or manual control with 30 watts per channel. Not sure if it will handle a D5 pump though if your're trying to do that also.


Exactly my plan on the fan controller. I painted the mesh grills on my 932 gold so I was thinking of doing the same with that controllers mesh as well to maintain a uniform look. As for the pump... the wifey bought me the "B" version so no control needed. I just have it hooked up to the CPU fan PWM just to be able to read the pump speed. That's all. Also helped eliminate that message that no CPU fan was connected when I booted up that I have always been too lazy to disable in the BIOS.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


No, that's no way to know reference from non reference cards. You have to check via part number or maybe use EK's website or TechPowerup's reference card pictures against the card you have. I only have reference cards, as they are the only ones you can get waterblocks for 99% of the time. I had to send back a HIS 6970 card because it was a version 2, but pictures on NewEgg showed it to be a version 1 reference card. Even HIS couldn't tell me from the part number, so back it went. Which card are you trying to find a reference design on?


Well... just toying with ideas. Nothing set in stone. Was thinking about the 6950 if I could get the non-reference and mod it up to a 6970... if that is still do-able, advisable and of any value. I was mainly curious since I did read a site mentioning what I mentioned. When I saw that card, I noticed that the power connectors were in a different location. They faced the side panel. My GTX 460 faces the front of the case. Maybe it's just like that on his card's model as a standard.


----------



## Zaxbys

Couple of questions... if my 240 rad is mounted to the top of my NZXT phantom... should I have the fans set to blow air up into the rad and out of the case or pull and down into the case through the rad?

Also what fans do you all recommend for better performance than the stock fans?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*


Couple of questions... if my 240 rad is mounted to the top of my NZXT phantom... should I have the fans set to blow air up into the rad and out of the case or pull and down into the case through the rad?

Also what fans do you all recommend for better performance than the stock fans?


heat rises, don't fight physics.
I have my RS360 mounts in the top of the case blowing up and it works perfect.
I get pretty much the same temps as when my rad was sitting on my desk.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*


Couple of questions... if my 240 rad is mounted to the top of my NZXT phantom... should I have the fans set to blow air up into the rad and out of the case or pull and down into the case through the rad?

Also what fans do you all recommend for better performance than the stock fans?


Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's, hard to find but worth the effort. Koolertek.com has some coming 5-3-11 and I just bought a couple from Listen to remix who also has some for sale. You can find his post here http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...l#post13316602


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*


Couple of questions... if my 240 rad is mounted to the top of my NZXT phantom... should I have the fans set to blow air up into the rad and out of the case or pull and down into the case through the rad?

Also what fans do you all recommend for better performance than the stock fans?


go with pushing and pulling air upwards not downwards...u got enough air goin in already with ur other fans....

well on fans...the famous super overrated fans the GT AP-15 OR 14 are the greatest fans of them all...they kill other fans on the spot,they burn fans while they pass,they obliderate fans while there at off mode...

or u can just go with yateloons...there great if ur goin with perforamce and price range...

u can go with xigmatek fans too there pretty good...silent but deadly =)


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Well... just toying with ideas. Nothing set in stone. Was thinking about the 6950 if I could get the non-reference and mod it up to a 6970... if that is still do-able, advisable and of any value. I was mainly curious since I did read a site mentioning what I mentioned. When I saw that card, I noticed that the power connectors were in a different location. They faced the side panel. My GTX 460 faces the front of the case. Maybe it's just like that on his card's model as a standard.


You mean a reference design 6950 with bios switch, not non-reference 6950. Only the reference ones with bios switch can be unlocked/flashed to 6970. They even use the same waterblock as the 6970. If you do find one, you need version 1 waterblock, not version2. The reference 6950s and 6970s are getting very hard to find, if any are left, so keep this in mind. Some do unlocking of shaders and some bios flash it to a 6970. It's not 100% guaranteed it will work, but the bios switch lets you recover it back to stock bios if needed.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


well on fans...the famous super overrated fans the GT AP-15 OR 14 are the greatest fans of them all...they kill other fans on the spot,they burn fans while they pass,they obliderate fans while there at off mode...


My 14 GT AP-15s are laughing right now









I wish the 2150s could be found, but no luck


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


go with pushing and pulling air upwards not downwards...u got enough air goin in already with ur other fans....

well on fans...the famous super overrated fans the GT AP-15 OR 14 are the greatest fans of them all...they kill other fans on the spot,they burn fans while they pass,they obliderate fans while there at off mode...

or u can just go with yateloons...there great if ur goin with perforamce and price range...

u can go with xigmatek fans too there pretty good...silent but deadly =)


I was looking at the Xigmatek Crystal fan @1500 RPM's
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233050

I have one that is really quiet, just wondering how three would work on a RS RAD in a push configuration?


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


Sweet, just ordered a T fitting and plug. Should be a nice little setup


Can you give me a link please?


----------



## mxthunder

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22...tl=g30c499s745

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/83...tl=g30c101s460


----------



## terence52

hi guys,
how long does xspc takes to respond to a rma?
my pump have failed.


----------



## Dooginater

XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Kit <---

Would I be able to water cool my gpu's with this bad boy here or just my cpu?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooginater;13328315*
> XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Kit <---
> 
> Would I be able to water cool my gpu's with this bad boy here or just my cpu?


Yes yo can cool ur gpu..not the best cooling but u can..if ur goin with 2 gpu for great temps..

Go get a mid high fans coz u got a rs type of rad..or u can go add 1 more 240 rad to get more cool..but if ur asking if the rs kit will run cpu and gpu my answer will be yes..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terence52;13328232*
> hi guys,
> how long does xspc takes to respond to a rma?
> my pump have failed.


Most of the peeps that experience rma in here its all FAST response..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13323325*
> I was looking at the Xigmatek Crystal fan @1500 RPM's
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233050
> 
> I have one that is really quiet, just wondering how three would work on a RS RAD in a push configuration?


What is the static pressure on these? I didn't see it listed. For RAD's you basically REQUIRE good static pressure (about 2.0 mmH2O (.114 inH20) or above). Other than that it looks interesting.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13328940*
> What is the static pressure on these? I didn't see it listed. For RAD's you basically REQUIRE good static pressure (about 2.0 mmH2O (.114 inH20) or above). Other than that it looks interesting.


I have search high and low for that information on the static pressure, the only thing I fine on their web site is this.

performing max. Air flow and mini. amount of noise; Less power consumption; *Optimal static pressure and torque*; Reduce noise and power consumption; Quad LEDs and transparent frame and blades; Longer life bearing design; Reliable and outstanding performance

I am going to give them a try, I will report back. I am going for a balance of quietest and performance. The R4's from CM are a little loud. Thanks guys.

To the guy asking about XSPC RMA, I talked with their support over a day to report and prove my issue. Sent my address on a Thurs afternoon, pump was on my door step Monday morning.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13329933*
> I have search high and low for that information on the static pressure, the only thing I fine on their web site is this.
> 
> performing max. Air flow and mini. amount of noise; Less power consumption; *Optimal static pressure and torque*; Reduce noise and power consumption; Quad LEDs and transparent frame and blades; Longer life bearing design; Reliable and outstanding performance
> 
> I am going to give them a try, I will report back. I am going for a balance of quietest and performance. The R4's from CM are a little loud. Thanks guys.
> 
> To the guy asking about XSPC RMA, I talked with their support over a day to report and prove my issue. Sent my address on a Thurs afternoon, pump was on my door step Monday morning.


Also, once you send your address you will not receive any shipping information or even a reply, but believe me it is on the way.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13328940*
> What is the static pressure on these? I didn't see it listed. For RAD's you basically REQUIRE good static pressure (about 2.0 mmH2O (.114 inH20) or above). Other than that it looks interesting.


How about these fans? I haven't heard anyone try these yet,

http://www.svc.com/tfd-12025h12zp.html


----------



## heresy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dooginater*


XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Kit <---

Would I be able to water cool my gpu's with this bad boy here or just my cpu?


I have the XSPC X20 750 with a different radiator (EK 360 which is slightly thicker - 48 mm vs 35 mm) and its cooling my 3 x 6970s to 42 C at load without any problem.


----------



## Lutro0

Yo all!

I have another question for the rasa crew. =)

I have a rasa240 kit in my work computer right now, I just picked up a white 600t to replace the case that's its in so I can do an internal rad. I plan on using white tubing and black fittings, but here is the question. I already have some 3/8 id x 1/2 od compression fittings coming in so it would be easy to just use those. Would using 3/8id tubing make a performance hit, or should I stick with the 7/16id. It would be alot cheaper to just use the 3/8 lol.

Ive read that you might get a little bit of performance from the 3/8 tubing on certain blocks because of the water pressure being a little higher, anyone have any insite into this?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Yo all!

I have another question for the rasa crew. =)

I have a rasa240 kit in my work computer right now, I just picked up a white 600t to replace the case thatâ€™s its in so I can do an internal rad. I plan on using white tubing and black fittings, but here is the question. I already have some 3/8 id x 1/2 od compression fittings coming in so it would be easy to just use those. Would using 3/8id tubing make a performance hit, or should I stick with the 7/16id. It would be alot cheaper to just use the 3/8 lol.

Ive read that you might get a little bit of performance from the 3/8 tubing on certain blocks because of the water pressure being a little higher, anyone have any insite into this?


3/8 = .375

7/16 = .4375

Difference is like .0625

As long as you are using a good pump you should be good. Remember, all though it is true that decreasing the inside diameter of the tubing will increase pressure, it also makes the pump have to work more. See, the pump is going to try and keep a constant speed so by increasing the loop pressure, you MAY be putting additional strain on the pump.

In order to better answer your question, can we assume you are going to be using the XSPC pump/res combo? If not, what pump would you be using? What all would you be cooling with your loop? I'd venture to say that if you are only going to cool the CPU, give it a good try. I believe you will be good.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13330960*
> Yo all!
> 
> I have another question for the rasa crew. =)
> 
> I have a rasa240 kit in my work computer right now, I just picked up a white 600t to replace the case that's its in so I can do an internal rad. I plan on using white tubing and black fittings, but here is the question. I already have some 3/8 id x 1/2 od compression fittings coming in so it would be easy to just use those. Would using 3/8id tubing make a performance hit, or should I stick with the 7/16id. It would be alot cheaper to just use the 3/8 lol.
> 
> Ive read that you might get a little bit of performance from the 3/8 tubing on certain blocks because of the water pressure being a little higher, anyone have any insite into this?


You should have no problems with 3/8"ID tubing. There's no real differences between the 3/8"ID to 1/2"ID tubing accept for appearance.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13330429*
> How about these fans? I haven't heard anyone try these yet,
> 
> http://www.svc.com/tfd-12025h12zp.html


I saw those the other day. They have a max SP of 3.55 mmH2O. That's almost 56% more pressure than the AP-15 that come in at like 2.01 mmH2O! At 35 dba they could be a bit loud at full speed but with that pressure I bet you could run them at 75% speed, still have awesome sp (+2 MMh2o) overall and cool the rad down very well. AAAAANNNNNNDDDDDDD.... $5 cheaper on average than the AP-15's. Attractive option...

Only the color turns me off just a bit but thats just me.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


3/8 = .375

7/16 = .4375

Difference is like .0625

As long as you are using a good pump you should be good. Remember, all though it is true that decreasing the inside diameter of the tubing will increase pressure, it also makes the pump have to work more. See, the pump is going to try and keep a constant speed so by increasing the loop pressure, you MAY be putting additional strain on the pump.

In order to better answer your question, can we assume you are going to be using the XSPC pump/res combo? If not, what pump would you be using? What all would you be cooling with your loop? I'd venture to say that if you are only going to cool the CPU, give it a good try. I believe you will be good.


Yea res/pump combo. And only the cpu. (i7 920 @ 4.2) And thanks for the help bud! +rep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


You should have no problems with 3/8"ID tubing. There's no real differences between the 3/8"ID to 1/2"ID tubing accept for appearance.


Awesome and thanks! +rep


----------



## Kahbrohn

Lutro0 - You will be good with 3/8" ID tubing.

Post those numbers though. Pre/Post 3/8". Would be interesting to see actual number for comparison purposes. I am predicting at most, maybe, a 1*C difference in favor of the 3/8".


----------



## moto211

What's the best US vendor to buy a RX360 kit from right now? And does anyone know of any promo codes?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moto211*


What's the best US vendor to buy a RX360 kit from right now? And does anyone know of any promo codes?


Try Jab-Tech... Promo code Facebook for an additional discount. I believe the 1st. post has other vendor and promo codes listed. 

Welcome to the Dark Side!!! We have cookies!


----------



## moto211

Unfortunately, Jab-Tech is currently out of the RX360 kit. Petra's has it. Can't seem to find any promo codes for them though.


----------



## Nytehawk

*snip*

I think I needed my own thread, cuz I'm special.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13331277*
> Lutro0 - You will be good with 3/8" ID tubing.
> 
> Post those numbers though. Pre/Post 3/8". Would be interesting to see actual number for comparison purposes. I am predicting at most, maybe, a 1*C difference in favor of the 3/8".


I sure will and I just ordered the tubing. =) Amazon free shipping FTW.


----------



## jjjc_93

Thought I would pop in and show images of my new build, utilising the Rasa 750 RX360 kit.



















Temperatures are: 57c load @ 4.5GHz 1.36v (in the process of overclocking)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13337830*
> I sure will and I just ordered the tubing. =) Amazon free shipping FTW.


Lucky on the free shipping... Said it once, will say it again. These damn couriers are just plain scared to do ground service delivery to Puerto Rico for some reason. Sheeezzzzz... discrimination I tell you!!!!


----------



## Nytehawk

AHHHHHHH, Jab-tech is OOS!!!!

what do I do now? Performance PC and Sidewinder don't have discount codes.


----------



## Sainesk

so I setup my kit again, and it's still leaking where the molex for the pump comes through the res









definitely have a faulty res/pump... not a fun first time watercooling experience. Sent a message to XSPC to see if they'll help me.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nytehawk*


AHHHHHHH, Jab-tech is OOS!!!!

what do I do now? Performance PC and Sidewinder don't have discount codes.










Did you check the original post? FrozenCPU has the following code available: "*pcapex"*

Other than those two, no promo codes available with the other vendors.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jjjc_93*


Thought I would pop in and show images of my new build, utilising the Rasa 750 RX360 kit.



















Temperatures are: 57c load @ 4.5GHz 1.36v (in the process of overclocking)


wow that was some awesome rig u got there...


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jjjc_93*


Thought I would pop in and show images of my new build, utilising the Rasa 750 RX360 kit.



















Temperatures are: 57c load @ 4.5GHz 1.36v (in the process of overclocking)


Does look really good.


----------



## moto211

So, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the RX360 kit. I'm getting it from Petra's since they have the best price with shipping and I heard that they ship very fast. I want to add a T-fitting with a drain line at the lowest point of my loop. Would you guys mind taking a look a my cart and letting me know if it looks good and/or if there's anything else that I need?










Basically, I will screw the barb into one side of the coupler and the plug into the other side. I'm pretty sure the kit comes with enough clamps (2 rad, 2 cpu block, 2 pump/res, 3 T-fitting, and 1 on the fitting at the drain plug).


----------



## Dissentience

Having nuke and a killcoil is unnecessary


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moto211*


So, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the RX360 kit. I'm getting it from Petra's since they have the best price with shipping and I heard that they ship very fast. I want to add a T-fitting with a drain line at the lowest point of my loop. Would you guys mind taking a look a my cart and letting me know if it looks good and/or if there's anything else that I need?










Basically, I will screw the fitting into one side of the coupler and the plug into the other side. I'm pretty sure the kit comes with enough clamps (2 rad, 2 cpu block, 2 pump/res, 3 T-fitting, and 1 on the fitting at the drain plug).


whats the male to male connector for??u need 4 more clamps for the T AND the plug.......and whats that fitting for???


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


whats the male to male connector for??u need 4 more clamps for the fittings....and ur good to go....


It's for his plug


----------



## moto211

I couldn't find a barb that was female threaded, only male threaded. And the plug is male threaded too. So I figured the male-to-male connector would do the trick (drain line from T-fitting to the barb screwed into one side and plug screwed into the other). So, the kit comes with 6 clamps? For some reason I thought it came with 10.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


It's for his plug


so from the T > fitting >male to male > the plug??

lolz how about just go get a regular plug then go plug the tube and put clamp on it..wahahah

go get u a brass 1/2 ID and 3/4 od from hardware store... 1 dollor only + tax

plug the tube wer ur drain is and clamp it...and waaaaaaaaaaaallllllllllaaaaaaaaaa u got a drain port with plug on it....


----------



## Quccu

My
- i7 930 at 4ghz with HT is running 60c on 80% load
- RAM 8gb/12gb load

Using XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 CPU only loop.

Is this good / bad / average temperature?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quccu*


My
- i7 930 at 4ghz with HT is running 60c on 80% load
- RAM 8gb/12gb load

Using XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 CPU only loop.

Is this good / bad / average temperature?


vcore?


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Pretty damn close to hating compression fittings. They're a royal pita to get tight once you've rotated them to where you want them. I was cursing my face off earlier trying to get everything on. Thinking about axing them and just getting some barbed 90s and some clamps.


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13342336*
> Did you check the original post? FrozenCPU has the following code available: "*pcapex"*
> 
> Other than those two, no promo codes available with the other vendors.


FrozenCPU doesn't carry the RX360

Jabtech said it may take a week.


----------



## AUS.R34P3R

I see jjjc got in here before me hehe, well here is my RX240 kit then:


























Some pics were taken before I had both of my 6950's, hence the disparity.


----------



## moto211

What screws should i buy to mount 38mm fans to the RX360?


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moto211;13349777*
> What screws should i buy to mount 38mm fans to the RX360?


Get #6-32 x 1 1/2"


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13346452*
> FrozenCPU doesn't carry the RX360
> 
> Jabtech said it may take a week.


Odd that FrozenCPU carries the RS360 and not the RX kit. Send them a message to be sure. The do in fact offer the RX360 rad by itself. Doesn't make sense (other than to try and get more money out of you) that they wouldn't carry the whole XSPC line of products.

Jab-Tech is pretty good about their time estimates. Performance PCS still has one in stock for $190 but no promo code.


----------



## Quccu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13344585*
> vcore?


voltage is set to 1.26 at 4ghz. On 100% load temp is 65-70 with the kit. Is that bad or good?


----------



## jjjc_93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AUS.R34P3R*


I see jjjc got in here before me hehe, well here is my RX240 kit then:

http://i.imgur.com/bUfiL.jpg[/*IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/R5hSO.jpg[/*IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/2qc9M.jpg[/*IMG]

Some pics were taken before I had both of my 6950's, hence the disparity.

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Considering you were finished weeks before me, you should have been in waay before I was [IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/tongue.gif

Anyways, said it a million times and will say it again, epic rig.


----------



## adamwzl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AUS.R34P3R*


I see jjjc got in here before me hehe, well here is my RX240 kit then:


























Some pics were taken before I had both of my 6950's, hence the disparity.


looks great, congrats!

your gpu's are screaming water though


----------



## adamwzl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quccu*


voltage is set to 1.26 at 4ghz. On 100% load temp is 65-70 with the kit. Is that bad or good?


What kit are you using the RS or RX 240/360?

Is it just your CPU thats being cooled by water?

Do you have a push+pull fan setup or just either/or push/pull?

What are your ambient temperatures as well?

That should help us better judge if those temps your getting are correct or not.

I know my core temps are 65-70c when playing bfbc2. But I have 2x240 swiftech rads and a single 120 swiftech rad. With dual 6950s + NB chipset all cooling in one loop. At a ambient of 75F.


----------



## Crabby654

I know I'm already on the list and in the club, but this weekend I finally got around to painting the inside of my HAF 932 black and installing my 1/2 ID red tubing with my compression fittings. Here is the new look!

Attachment 208537
Attachment 208538


----------



## Havoknova

So just pulled the trigger on this beauty..goin all naked baby

1:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/98...5Mo&mv_pc=4701

2:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...5Mo&mv_pc=5136

This will be pretty cool..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I know I'm already on the list and in the club, but this weekend I finally got around to painting the inside of my HAF 932 black and installing my 1/2 ID red tubing with my compression fittings. Here is the new look!

Attachment 208537
Attachment 208538


Need more red leds bro..its too dark in there..hehehe..pro painting btw..


----------



## Crabby654

I have so many red LED's in that case, it looked way brighter when it was the primer, but I need some red above the res on the cd bays.


----------



## conmanxtreme

I have an Antec 1200 and im looking to get into watercooling and i really want to get one of these XSPC kits, any suggestions on which one, like size wise and everything? and the best way to mount it, internally if possible?


----------



## naikee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conmanxtreme;13356594*
> I have an Antec 1200 and im looking to get into watercooling and i really want to get one of these XSPC kits, any suggestions on which one, like size wise and everything? and the best way to mount it, internally if possible?


Going to be hard internally, the back has space
for one 240mm rad but not internal.
You could buy custom parts and get the 200x200mm antec rad specifically desogned for the 1200, I think it would fit internally just fine.
Another option is to mod the front panel hdd cages but that way you cant mount anything else in them!


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conmanxtreme;13356594*
> I have an Antec 1200 and im looking to get into watercooling and i really want to get one of these XSPC kits, any suggestions on which one, like size wise and everything? and the best way to mount it, internally if possible?


Another Antec Watercooler in Iowa??

The odds are amazing!


----------



## naikee

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/545909-antec-1200-200mm-radiator-opinions.html the rad is aluminium but check the 2nd page for the video, looks nice and easy!


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13357155*
> Another Antec Watercooler in Iowa??
> 
> The odds are amazing!


I'm going to be putting my watercooled 902 on the market fairly soon. I guess that makes three.


----------



## bennieboi6969

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13355264*
> So just pulled the trigger on this beauty..goin all naked baby
> 
> 1:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9873/cst-972/Danger_Den_Torture_Rack_Acrylic_Case_-_Customizable.html?tl=g1c7s436&id=zRi3b5Mo&mv_pc=4701
> 
> 2:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12653/ex-rad-222/Phobya_Radiator_Housing_Stand_-_Triple_3_x_120mm_4_x_180mm_Bench_Edition_38191.html?tl=g1c7s532&id=zRi3b5Mo&mv_pc=5136
> 
> This will be pretty cool..


so ull be getting 1 of these?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11760/ex-rad-123/Phobya_XTREME_Nova_1080_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s667


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969;13357824*
> so ull be getting 1 of these?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11760/ex-rad-123/Phobya_XTREME_Nova_1080_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s667


nope,,, all i need is 1 more 360 and reuse my other 2 rads..hehehe

buy me a new pump and res...


----------



## terence52

hmm, still no response on my rma.. can someone link me to xspc rma email? may have gone to the wrong one :X


----------



## RonB94GT

So 1 bought 2 of these for the front more my case. Thinking about getting 2 more for the rad. Good fans for the rad?http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_69&products_id=29659


----------



## bennieboi6969

thats 1 hell of a rad tho lol


----------



## AUS.R34P3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamwzl;13354296*
> looks great, congrats!
> 
> your gpu's are screaming water though


If only budgetary and case constraints would allow it








I don't want external rads so until I get a bigger case to house a 480 rad I'll settle for Air on the GPU's.


----------



## conmanxtreme

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=180655

Just stumbled upon this thread, the rear mounts looking badass, i mean i think im just going to start with a cpu loop, so no quite as much stuff going on lol


----------



## mbudden

Hey guys.
I will be updating the thread tomorrow.
So I know some of you have been saying add me etc.
It will be done tomorrow. Don't worry!


----------



## conmanxtreme

hope to earn a spot before too long lol


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;13359558*
> So 1 bought 2 of these for the front more my case. Thinking about getting 2 more for the rad. Good fans for the rad?http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_69&products_id=29659


Thats almost the same as getting GT AP-15s, except they have nice color.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Hey guys.
I will be updating the thread tomorrow.
So I know some of you have been saying add me etc.
It will be done tomorrow. Don't worry!


















Wow, look who showed up!?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


hmm, still no response on my rma.. can someone link me to xspc rma email? may have gone to the wrong one :X


They are not showing it on their site, you need to go here and I guess in your case you select US/Asia option...


----------



## Gawdz

I cant wait until i buy mine, so i can be part of the club.


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


They are not showing it on their site, you need to go here and I guess in your case you select US/Asia option...


Hmm. i send it through there. no replies yet since sat.


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


They are not showing it on their site, you need to go here and I guess in your case you select US/Asia option...


Anyway. thanks.
just send another email. hopefully before i go nuts. 
+ rep.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terence52;13364153*
> Anyway. thanks.
> just send another email. hopefully before i go nuts.
> + rep.


Send your RMA request to this email address, he is the president of the company: dazhong

He gets a lot, but he should answer with in a day.


----------



## wetfit9

I know I have asked this question before, I cannot fine the answer. I have looked back a lot of pages, anyway.
Besides the Yate's what is a good fan for the RS360. I know they work best with high pressure fans, but a lot of fans don't list the pressure. Then trying to fine a balance between performance and noise. I put some R4's from CM on there now, but they are loud and they don't work to well with a fan controller. They either stop spinning with the led still on, or they are full. So i can deal with a high speed fan that works well a fan controller. Thanks a head of time and sorry about asking the same question again. This time I will write the answers down.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13367079*
> I know I have asked this question before, I cannot fine the answer. I have looked back a lot of pages, anyway.
> Besides the Yate's what is a good fan for the RS360. I know they work best with high pressure fans, but a lot of fans don't list the pressure. Then trying to fine a balance between performance and noise. I put some R4's from CM on there now, but they are loud and they don't work to well with a fan controller. They either stop spinning with the led still on, or they are full. So i can deal with a high speed fan that works well a fan controller. Thanks a head of time and sorry about asking the same question again. This time I will write the answers down.


Maybe some Koolance 2000rpm 120mm fans. I use them now, but on a RX360. They are not loud at all either at full speed.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Jab-Tech just got GT AP-15's back in stock. 5% off coupon code: facebook

Looks like Frozencpu did too.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13367079*
> I know I have asked this question before, I cannot fine the answer. I have looked back a lot of pages, anyway.
> Besides the Yate's what is a good fan for the RS360. I know they work best with high pressure fans, but a lot of fans don't list the pressure. Then trying to fine a balance between performance and noise. I put some R4's from CM on there now, but they are loud and they don't work to well with a fan controller. They either stop spinning with the led still on, or they are full. So i can deal with a high speed fan that works well a fan controller. Thanks a head of time and sorry about asking the same question again. This time I will write the answers down.


Using the GT AP-15's as a reference fan with about 2.0 mmH2O:

CM R4's... Personally considering these until such time as the AP-15's make it back into stock. Bearing is what worries me... (And the AP-15's have made their way back!!!)

Someone posted a Evercool fan that had a pretty decent SP to it. Here it is: http://www.svc.com/tfd-12025h12zp.html @ 3.56 mmH2O.

Enermax Magma's come in at around 1.4 mmH2O

Scythe has other fans available (other than the GT's) but I can't readily find you the SP's on them right now...


----------



## mr. haison

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13367706*
> Using the GT AP-15's as a reference fan with about 2.0 mmH2O:
> 
> CM R4's... Personally considering these until such time as the AP-15's make it back into stock. Bearing is what worries me... (And the AP-15's have made their way back!!!)
> 
> Someone posted a Evercool fan that had a pretty decent SP to it. Here it is: http://www.svc.com/tfd-12025h12zp.html @ 3.56 mmH2O.
> 
> Enermax Magma's come in at around 1.4 mmH2O
> 
> Scythe has other fans available (other than the GT's) but I can't readily find you the SP's on them right now...


The GT A-15's are back in stock on frozencpu. I just ordered myself six. I will be posting up my setup after I install them.


----------



## Dissentience

Ordered 2 AP-15s. I originally wasn't going to but I figured I may change my mind later and they will clean out quickly


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr. haison;13369406*
> The GT A-15's are back in stock on frozencpu. I just ordered myself six. I will be posting up my setup after I install them.


Thanks for the heads up. They are back in Jab-Tech as well. Their shipping down my way is cheaper so I am also working on acquiring some...


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Ok so I think I know what's going on with my compression fittings. I have 7/16 ID, 5/8 OD tubing.. the wall is too thick for 1/2,5/8 fittings. Do you think it would be a good idea to switch to 1/2,3/4 fittings and getting likewise tubing?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13371482*
> Ok so I think I know what's going on with my compression fittings. I have 7/16 ID, 5/8 OD tubing.. the wall is too thick for 1/2,5/8 fittings. Do you think it would be a good idea to switch to 1/2,3/4 fittings and getting likewise tubing?


If you already have the fittings, just get tubing to match. Only XSPC and EK make 7/16"ID-5/8"OD compression fittings when I last checked


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13371594*
> If you already have the fittings, just get tubing to match. Only XSPC and EK make 7/16"ID-5/8"OD compression fittings when I last checked


I haven't been able to find 1/2 ID, 5/8 OD tubing.. that's my problem. That's why I'm needing to switch to 1/2,3/4


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;13371615*
> I haven't been able to find 1/2 ID, 5/8 OD tubing.. that's my problem. That's why I'm needing to switch to 1/2,3/4


Tubing:
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-tub-28.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2122/ex-mis-02/12_ID_-_58_OD_PVC_Clear_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s172

If you can return the fittings to get the correct ones, I would IMO.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13372055*
> Tubing:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-tub-28.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2122/ex-mis-02/12_ID_-_58_OD_PVC_Clear_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s172
> 
> If you can return the fittings to get the correct ones, I would IMO.


I'll just get the right ones, since I don't want clear tubing. If I did, I would've never gotten red.


----------



## KillerMike84

Finish & Update My AMD RedFlash Project Hope guys like it

AMD RedFlash Project
XSPC Rasa 450 RS240 WaterCooling Kit*
MYOPENPC DOMA Pro PCI Custom Red Transparent Acrylic Open
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Quad Core 3.7Ghz
Stable Idle 32C High 42C
Asus Crosshair IV Formula
Corsair Red/Black Airflow 2 GTL Cooling*
Patriot Sector 5 Viper II 8GB DDR3 1333MHz
Kingston SSD 64GB+30GB JBOD
WD Scorpio Blue Mobile Hard Drive 500GB
Ultra X4 750-Watt Modular Power Supply
Dual Crossfire XFX Radeon HD 5830's 1GB PCIe DDR5*
Dual Thermaltake 120mm Highest Performance DC Fans

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvenQCjx9zA[/ame]


----------



## wetfit9

Just ordered me three of these: Scythe Gentle Typhoon - D1225C12B5AP-15 - 1850rpm

Everyone speaks so high of them as far as the amount of air they move on the RAD and the noise. So I picked up three to use in a push and I will use the stock fans from the kit for pull for now. If I like them I will order three more. Didn't want to order six and not like them. I have a container full of fans that I ordered to fine out that they are louder then stated. Now I have to decide weather to paint them green to match my case or leave them alone as they will be in the top and you will not be able to see them unless I take pictures. But I will know they don't match, so that may be the deciding factor. Question, has anyone painted these before and if so, does it effect the performance of the fan?


----------



## Havoknova

@killermike

Ur rig looks sexy btw...goin to get my torture rack this friday and ill be setting the same thing u got right now..

Great job..


----------



## moto211

I'm expecting delivery of my RX360 kit today or tomorrow. So, i figured its a good time to get the hardware pulled out of my cases. I'll put my old Q6600 machine into the Antec 300 from my new build. The hardware from my new build will be set aside to go into my old Rocketfish after I've done some cutting. I've found some radiator templates online but none for the RX360. Any generic 3x120 radiator template with a fan spacing of 15mm would work, right? Also, what kind of temps do you guys think I can expect to see on my [email protected]@1.365v(actual)? Its currently cooled by a H70 with the stock fans in push/pull at full speed. My ambient is 23c and with the current cooling it hits 65c-68c full load.


----------



## Dissentience

My 2600k hits low 60s on full load with 1.4v so on 1.36v expect mid to high 50s


----------



## KillerMike84

Havoknova Thank u so much without out job I did this project this best Custom PC I have done just about 3 week My Asus Crosshair IV Formula overheat on Northbridge went temp (85C) its (185F) out no where I was so mad but Asus just sent a New Crosshair IV Formula with all new box stuff so it good wait for me to tell u the truth Plus I have family friend who works for Corsair got my last thing I wanted Red/Black Airflow 2 GTL Cooling for Free its cost more & its hard to find this color I wanted this so bad in the first place this not going be my last there still more to come Havoknova My AMD RedFlash Project Cost me about $2200.00 I can still do more but I need save money maybe later do Triple-CrossFire XFX HD5830's take care ;>


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerMike84;13381285*
> Havoknova Thank u so much without out job I did this project this best Custom PC I have done just about 3 week My Asus Crosshair IV Formula overheat on Northbridge went temp (85C) its (185F) out no where I was so mad but Asus just sent a New Crosshair IV Formula with all new box stuff so it good wait for me to tell u the truth Plus I have family friend who works for Corsair got my last thing I wanted Red/Black Airflow 2 GTL Cooling for Free its cost more & its hard to find this color I wanted this so bad in the first place this not going be my last there still more to come Havoknova My AMD RedFlash Project Cost me about $2200.00 I can still do more but I need save money maybe later do Triple-CrossFire XFX HD5830's take care ;>


Well my build that im goin to do is a danger den torture rack and ill put a eatx on it but the only thing that willfit on it is atx so i guess ill go x my fingers..and for my water cooling ill got me a phobya rad stand for my rads pump and res..put it at the back of my torture rack and go all naked...

I know it will not be the cleanest waire management but i want something thats easy to take apart and easy to re assemble or put new stuff on it..


----------



## Havoknova

@killermike.

Well thats y u got some overheat on ur nb coz of the standoffs on the board..the TIM on the nb heatsink is not touching the nb..u need to file the standoffs to make it the same size of the sb standoffs so u will have a good contact on ur heatsink and ur nb..then ull see some nice temps..

That problem is known at asus CIV formula boards..check my signature on CIV thread and ull see the problem about the formula board..


----------



## broke

ive just put an order in for the Rasa 750 RX240 kit myself. im really looking forward to playing around with water cooling.


----------



## xstasy

bought the rx360, still fixing up.


----------



## mxthunder

I would like to know how loud everyones pump is. Mine has a distinct buzz to it when its on, like an old aquarium pump; but I just installed an RS240 kit in a friends machine, and his pump was almost completely silent. What is the norm?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xstasy;13385016*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bought the rx360, still fixing up.


Look simple and hot!!


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;13389662*
> I would like to know how loud everyones pump is. Mine has a distinct buzz to it when its on, like an old aquarium pump; but I just installed an RS240 kit in a friends machine, and his pump was almost completely silent. What is the norm?


Mine was absolutely silent. It had a buzz at first when I installed it, but I had to get all the bubbles out of the loop first.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;13389662*
> I would like to know how loud everyones pump is. Mine has a distinct buzz to it when its on, like an old aquarium pump; but I just installed an RS240 kit in a friends machine, and his pump was almost completely silent. What is the norm?


A "buzz" or a "rattle"? Maybe post a small 10-15 second video shot at about 12-18 inches away WITH sound.


----------



## mxthunder

Thats a good question. I will try to take a video tonight. It has always sounded that way, it has only gotten a little worse over the last two months.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


Thats a good question. I will try to take a video tonight. It has always sounded that way, it has only gotten a little worse over the last two months.


On those 2 months did u drain ur loop recently??

If yes probably just air...

But if not probably pump getting weak...

Drain my loop last 2-3 weeks ago and my pump get noisy but when all air is gone inside my loop it went back to dead silent..goin strong for 4 months now...


----------



## jam3s

I think I have a pump issue. It doesn't seem to want to run at some times.

I believe it's with the actual molex connector. Because if I push the wires a certain way, it works, and if I push it another way, it won't.

My CPU temp shot up to like 72c but it seems to be working now, in the low thirties for idle Temp.

Whew!


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


On those 2 months did u drain ur loop recently??

If yes probably just air...

But if not probably pump getting weak...

Drain my loop last 2-3 weeks ago and my pump get noisy but when all air is gone inside my loop it went back to dead silent..goin strong for 4 months now...


Yeah I flushed it a couple weeks ago. Hmm never thought about the air thing. Will have to look around the loop and see if I see anything. I plan to drain again this week to install an actual drain port to make my life easier, so we'll see what happens.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s;13390298*
> I think I have a pump issue. It doesn't seem to want to run at some times.
> 
> I believe it's with the actual molex connector. Because if I push the wires a certain way, it works, and if I push it another way, it won't.
> 
> My CPU temp shot up to like 72c but it seems to be working now, in the low thirties for idle Temp.
> 
> Whew!


I had tyhis issue as well with my first pump/res. I took the molex pins out, cleaned them a bit and then I gently crimped where the wire inserts into the pin. I also gently pulled out the pin-to-connector fastners. Then I reinserted the pins into their respective positions within the molex connector and it worked perfectly from there on.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam3s*


I think I have a pump issue. It doesn't seem to want to run at some times.

I believe it's with the actual molex connector. Because if I push the wires a certain way, it works, and if I push it another way, it won't.

My CPU temp shot up to like 72c but it seems to be working now, in the low thirties for idle Temp.

Whew!


Same thing happened to me, I just cut the connector and wired it directly to a modular PSU lead


----------



## wetfit9

Just got my second 580 in from repairs. Time to put the block on it and get everything ready to put it in my system tomorrow.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xstasy;13385016*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bought the rx360, still fixing up.


Asus fan til the death but I love the coloring of your mobo


----------



## mxthunder

here is a vid of my pump. is this noise normal?

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G3M_pAzz8o[/ame]


----------



## bennieboi6969

hell no lol rma it


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13372055*
> Tubing:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-tub-28.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2122/ex-mis-02/12_ID_-_58_OD_PVC_Clear_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s172
> 
> If you can return the fittings to get the correct ones, I would IMO.


dude, look what I found. It's a good thing I didnt order the 3/4 fittings and tube

Bitspower 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD compression fittings


----------



## GWhisper

Hi Guys,

I'm in the process of WC my system. So far I've got a Rasa 750 RX360 kit hooked up to the CPU getting good temps.

CPU - i7 2600k

I've just ordered the remaining components which will hopefully allow me to connect up the GPU's 2 x GTX 480's. For this I've ordered a second RAD a RX240, and 2 x XSPC 480 blocks. Hopefully the pump is strong enough to feed the system.

I'm using my trusty old Antec 1200, the RX360 is externally mounted on the rear and I plan on putting the RX240 internally under the 200mm fan. Current fan config is the 3 kits fans are mounted on the outside of the RX360 pulling air from inside the case, I left the stock antec fans in place and they are pushing air out - so 2 fans in push and 3 in pull. For the RX240 I was thinking of a couple of GT 1150's under the rad in a push setup and the stock 200 pulling??

At the moment I'm running 4.8Ghz 1.365v 24/7 with idle temps around 5 delta and loads up around 40. GPU's idle on air, one is currently sitting at 71c while the other is around 41c - hopefully once on water this drops considerably.

Anyways, just thought I'd posting something in here to say hi and let you know what I'm working on.


----------



## xstasy

Finally had everything fixed up


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xstasy;13401423*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally had everything fixed up


Great job,It looks very good.


----------



## xstasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;13401437*
> Great job,It looks very good.


Thanks~ my first attempt at watercooling. I'm getting about 8c difference on load, coming from h70.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xstasy;13401465*
> Thanks~ my first attempt at watercooling. I'm getting about 8c difference on load, coming from h70.


Thats very good.Never was a big fan of the H Corsair Series Closed system coolers..


----------



## Farih

About to order a kit, but not sure wich one

Dont think a 360 rad will fit in this case so i am going for a 240 rad.

What is the difference of the RS and RX 240 rasa kit ?
Will it fit in my case ? [CM Storm Sniper Black]

Or should i go for a custom set ?

Edit: only watercooling the cpu


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


dude, look what I found. It's a good thing I didnt order the 3/4 fittings and tube

Bitspower 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD compression fittings


Thats a bit pricey. For me, I would need about 14 of those, LOL!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farih*


About to order a kit, but not sure wich one

Dont think a 360 rad will fit in this case so i am going for a 240 rad.

What is the difference of the RS and RX 240 rasa kit ?
Will it fit in my case ? [CM Storm Sniper Black]

Or should i go for a custom set ?

Edit: only watercooling the cpu


"What is the difference of the RS and RX 240 rasa kit ?"
http://www.overclock.net/12328570-post3835.html


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Thats a bit pricey. For me, I would need about 14 of those, LOL!


14?!







I think I just void a brick in my pants. I'm glad that I only need 2 of them and 2 45s


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


14?!







I think I just void a brick in my pants. I'm glad that I only need 2 of them and 2 45s


Well, not 14 of those specifically, but to use all Bitspower compression fittings, 14 total, but not all 90 Deg. I have the EK compression fittings for 7/16ID instead.


----------



## mbudden

Sorry fellas for the lack of update, waiting for some things in the mail before I can actually update.
It's not easy updating this thread on a laptop screen. So I'm waiting to be able to use a desktop so I can have multiple instances of web pages on the screen to update.

It's not the simplist task in the book and does require some time to physically go through one by one and add contacts. I wish I knew of a simpler way. I have been thinking about doing one of those pages that add the info for you, but I don't know how to do that. (Like you see for the foldathons etc)








so i do apologize.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farih*


About to order a kit, but not sure wich one

Dont think a 360 rad will fit in this case so i am going for a 240 rad.

What is the difference of the RS and RX 240 rasa kit ?
Will it fit in my case ? [CM Storm Sniper Black]

Or should i go for a custom set ?

Edit: only watercooling the cpu


The RS is 35mm thick. The RX is 58mm thick. Fans are normally 25mm thick.

RS with one fan = 35mm + 25mm = 60mm total thickness
RS with two fans (push/pull) = 35mm + 25mm + 25mm = 85mm thick

RX with one fan = 58mm + 25mm = 83mm thick
RX with two fans (push/pull) = 58mm + 25mm + 25mm = 108mm thick.

RX radiators offer more cooling.You can see different working configurations within this thread to find the one that most closely resembles what you intend to do.

Make sure these measurements will not cause any interference with your components inside your case. For example, some internal top mounted radiators will overhang over the RAM retaining clips or even the slots.

Depending on which one you get, if you are going to use aftermarket fans your choices vary as well. The RS kit will require higher speed, higher static pressure fans. The RX will require slower speed fans but also with high static pressure.


----------



## mbudden

People should read the FAQ.
The dimensions of the rads are in the FAQ.
Just add the the thickness of one fan or two fans to it.

But lol, Kahbrohn always being a big help


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


People should read the FAQ.
The dimensions of the rads are in the FAQ.
Just add the the thickness of one fan or two fans to it.

But lol, Kahbrohn always being a big help










ROTFLMBO! You know, the FAQ was set up. Everyone thought it was a good idea. Info is there. But even the FAQ supporters (meaning.... me!) forget its there!!!

Oh well... felt good writing it out again. I have a long and boring day today answering some US Customs penalties on behalf of my clients so at least this was a fun write up. :-D Hmmm... think I can tell Customs "Read the OP and refer to the FAQ section!"???


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


ROTFLMBO! You know, the FAQ was set up. Everyone thought it was a good idea. Info is there. But even the FAQ supporters (meaning.... me!) forget its there!!!

Oh well... felt good writing it out again. I have a long and boring day today answering some US Customs penalties on behalf of my clients so at least this was a fun write up. :-D Hmmm... think I can tell Customs "Read the OP and refer to the FAQ section!"???


I actually went to the FAQs and posted the link from there explaining the kits.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I actually went to the FAQs and posted the link from there explaining the kits.


You know... I actually failed to see the quotes you posted and thought you were actually asking. I should have known better... Shame on me...

It's Friday... end of the week... a rough one at that. Where's that cave I came out of? I need to go back in and hybernate an additional 2 months.


----------



## Havoknova

Got my radiator stand today..now i got some stuff i need to buy but need to do it piece by piece..

- cpu 370 by koolance (just becoz it look so awesome)

-2 x 640g harddrive for raid 0 setup..

-1 rad 360 , 6 fans (gt ap-15)

-new pump with top and cylinder res

-alot of angled compression fittings and quick disconnect fittings..

Choose , pick ,choose , pick

Whos going to be the lucky item for this week..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13406072*
> Got my radiator stand today..now i got some stuff i need to buy but need to do it piece by piece..
> 
> - cpu 370 by koolance (just becoz it look so awesome)
> 
> -2 x 640g harddrive for raid 0 setup..
> 
> -1 rad 360 , 6 fans (gt ap-15)
> 
> -new pump with top and cylinder res
> 
> -alot of angled compression fittings and quick disconnect fittings..
> 
> Choose , pick ,choose , pick
> 
> Whos going to be the lucky item for this week..


The most anticipated build of 2011!!! Hurry up!!!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13406247*
> The most anticipated build of 2011!!! Hurry up!!!


Waaaa after this build ill be goin to stop fora bit..coz this hobby is so addicting wahahah..cant freakin stop..its like "ur looking for something to change" and its like nothing really needs to be change but ur looking and looking..hehee


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13406789*
> Waaaa after this build ill be goin to stop fora bit..coz this hobby is so addicting wahahah..cant freakin stop..its like "ur looking for something to change" and its like nothing really needs to be change but ur looking and looking..hehee


U gonna try LN2 next or what??







I mean, you got a Torture rack now


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13407067*
> U gonna try LN2 next or what??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean, you got a Torture rack now


Well maybe..if bulldozer is out ill LN2 my 1090t wahahaha...need more rads and more pumps wahaha...

Neeeedddd....

To.......

Stop ...

Upgrading....


----------



## jammo2k5

Some more links to Rx kiits in uk for you:

RX120:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-Rasa-450-RX120-WaterCooling-Kit--RX-Series-Kit-pid-12932.html

RX240:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX240-WaterCooling-Kit--RX-Series-Kit-pid-12933.html

RX360:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-WaterCooling-Kit--RX-Series-Kit-pid-12934.html

Also the pic of the RS360 kit in the OP is of the RX360


----------



## Havoknova

MY RAD STAND



















WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE


----------



## jammo2k5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13409415*
> MY RAD STAND
> 
> ~snip
> 
> WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE


Man a 120.3.3 Rad would look sweet nestled in that thing.


----------



## Dissentience

Got my AP-15s today. They are completely silent and temps are somehow 5C better than with my old Yates. Probably because I blew the dust outta my rad though.


----------



## Behemoth777

Add me to the list guys! I just made my final computer purchase for the next few years.









I also ordered some slick looking blue UV hose, and it should look really sweet with my UV lighting.


----------



## Zate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


MY RAD STAND



















WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE










made or bought? if purchased, where from ?


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Got my AP-15s today. They are completely silent and temps are somehow 5C better than with my old Yates. Probably because I blew the dust outta my rad though.


Got mines in today also, I just ordered three to make sure they were as silent as people stated. Well, I will be ordering 4 more to do pull on my 360 and pull for my 120. I added My second 580 to the loop also today. My idle/load temps went up, but that was to be expected. I am happy summer is here, maybe now I can turn on some air and cool this room down some.

Also, my EK SLI block I got to water cool turned out to be the wrong size. I will have to contact frozen cpu about this as I call and talked to them before I got it to make sure I had the right stuff. Never had to deal with their customer service, I hope it is good.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zate*


made or bought? if purchased, where from ?


Purchase from frozencpu..u can also buy it from performacepcs...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Got mines in today also, I just ordered three to make sure they were as silent as people stated. Well, I will be ordering 4 more to do pull on my 360 and pull for my 120. I added My second 580 to the loop also today. My idle/load temps went up, but that was to be expected. I am happy summer is here, maybe now I can turn on some air and cool this room down some.

Also, my EK SLI block I got to water cool turned out to be the wrong size. I will have to contact frozen cpu about this as I call and talked to them before I got it to make sure I had the right stuff. Never had to deal with their customer service, I hope it is good.


Which SLI block did you get? The 2 slot or 3 slot?


----------



## bennieboi6969

mcp655 for $50 should i get it?


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Which SLI block did you get? The 2 slot or 3 slot?


I thought I got the three slot, but it does not fit, it is just a little short. I am thinking I got the wrong one. This is the one I got.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...l_3_-Slot.html


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bennieboi6969*


mcp655 for $50 should i get it?


50 bucks used???

or new??


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


I thought I got the three slot, but it does not fit, it is just a little short. I am thinking I got the wrong one. This is the one I got.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...l_3_-Slot.html


You need a 3 slot for 2 slots in-between the PCIe slots. If you do have this configuration and it's too short, they sent you the wrong SLI bridge. I have a 3 slot parallel now, but need a regular 2 slot parallel for my new mobo. If it's a parallel 2 slot bridge, I could swap it with you for mine if you want.

This is the I need now
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...tl=g30c101s873


----------



## bennieboi6969

used thats also nzd in aud it 36 lol


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


50 bucks used???

or new??


You can get a new one from Performance PCs for $65 + shipping and tax if you're in FL, but you have a new one. It's up to you.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


You can get a new one from Performance PCs for $65 + shipping and tax if you're in FL, but you have a new one. It's up to you.


well i guess ill just go get me a pump and a res for this week....

and next week will be a rad and 6 fans..


----------



## badatgames18

do you guys know if it's possible to change or just turn off the stock pump and use a different one without any ill effects? so just using the res part of the res/pump combo?


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


You need a 3 slot for 2 slots in-between the PCIe slots. If you do have this configuration and it's too short, they sent you the wrong SLI bridge. I have a 3 slot parallel now, but need a regular 2 slot parallel for my new mobo. If it's a parallel 2 slot bridge, I could swap it with you for mine if you want.

This is the I need now
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...tl=g30c101s873


If you look at the link I have, this is that is the one they sent me, I will double check the box tomorrow and let you know. If it is the one they sent me I would gladly change with you.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


If you look at the link I have, this is that is the one they sent me, I will double check the box tomorrow and let you know. If it is the one they sent me I would gladly change with you.


What's the exact EK part number on the bridge?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badatgames18*


do you guys know if it's possible to change or just turn off the stock pump and use a different one without any ill effects? so just using the res part of the res/pump combo?


I wouldn't try that at all. Better to get a bay or top reservoir. It will flow, but will have the impeller adding restriction. Easier solution is a DDC XSPC bay reservoir. That's what I use with a BMaverick pump.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


If you look at the link I have, this is that is the one they sent me, I will double check the box tomorrow and let you know. If it is the one they sent me I would gladly change with you.


The link you showed is exactly what I have, so let me know if your link is the shorter parallel version. You can tell if you can see straight through the ports from top to bottom.

If yours looks like the link I posted, then I need that one if it's parallel.


----------



## jammo2k5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badatgames18*


do you guys know if it's possible to change or just turn off the stock pump and use a different one without any ill effects? so just using the res part of the res/pump combo?


You could just use the fill port as the in and the normal in as the out on the res bypassing the pump all together.


----------



## wermad

EK FC sli/crossfire Bridges:

-Dual Parallel/Series(serial): Slots #1 & #3
-Triple Parallel/Series(serial): Slots #1, #3, #5
-Dual-Triple spaced: Slots #1 & *#4*
-Quad Parallel: Slots #1, #3, #5, #7

As you can see its every other slot (except the dual-tripled space, it skips that middle #3 slot). If you have unused ports on the bridge, use the appropriate "blank" for either parallel or series/serial.

Check your mb before buying these bridges. If you have, for example, a mb w/ pcie slot #1 and slot #4, it wont work. Or, slot #1 and slot #6, etc. Always start counting from the first pcie slot from the top of your mb, if its every other (or odd) spaced slot, the bridges will work.

edit: make sure the blocks match or the bridge will not work


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


What's the exact EK part number on the bridge?


ex-blc-825


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


EK FC sli/crossfire Bridges:

-Dual Parallel/Series(serial): Slots #1 & #3
-Triple Parallel/Series(serial): Slots #1, #3, #5
-Dual-Triple spaced: Slots #1 & #5
-Quad Parallel: Slots #1, #3, #5, #7

As you can see its every other slot (except the dual-tripled space, it skips that middle #3 slot). If you have unused ports on the bridge, use the appropriate "blank" for either parallel or series/serial.

Check your mb before buying these bridges. If you have, for example, a mb w/ pcie slot #1 and slot #4, it wont work. Or, slot #1 and slot #6, etc. Always start counting from the first pcie slot from the top of your mb, if its every other (or odd) spaced slot, the bridges will work.

edit: make sure the blocks match or the bridge will not work










I am trying to understand what you are posting. My board. G1 Assassin, The first card is in the #3 from the top, and it is a dual card, so it takes slot 3 and 4. then the next card is in #7, so which one is the the one I want.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


EK FC sli/crossfire Bridges:

-Dual Parallel/Series(serial): Slots #1 & #3
-Triple Parallel/Series(serial): Slots #1, #3, #5
-Dual-Triple spaced: Slots #1 & #5
-Quad Parallel: Slots #1, #3, #5, #7

As you can see its every other slot (except the dual-tripled space, it skips that middle #3 slot). If you have unused ports on the bridge, use the appropriate "blank" for either parallel or series/serial.

Check your mb before buying these bridges. If you have, for example, a mb w/ pcie slot #1 and slot #4, it wont work. Or, slot #1 and slot #6, etc. Always start counting from the first pcie slot from the top of your mb, if its every other (or odd) spaced slot, the bridges will work.

edit: make sure the blocks match or the bridge will not work










Dual parallel 3 slot is slots 1 & 4, not 1 & 5


----------



## wetfit9

So, with the top part of the card/slot is 3 and 7, which should I order? I only have two cards


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


I am trying to understand what you are posting. My board. G1 Assassin, The first card is in the #3 from the top, and it is a dual card, so it takes slot 3 and 4. then the next card is in #7, so which one is the the one I want.


AFAIK, for a G1 Assasin, you need a triple SLI with block off plate. You're supposed to use slot 1 and 5 for PCIe x16 speeds, not 3 & 7. Those are x8 slots.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...tl=g30c101s873

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...tl=g30c101s873


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Dual parallel 3 slot is slots 1 & 4, not 1 & 5


tnx for the correction


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


AFAIK, for a G1 Assasin, you need a triple SLI with block off plate. You're supposed to use slot 1 and 5 for PCIe x16 speeds, not 3 & 7. Those are x8 slots.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...tl=g30c101s873

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...tl=g30c101s873


Ok, I was counting the number of slots off the back of the case. But yes, I am using slots one and 3 on the mother board. so I do have the wrong one and i need to get a blank to fill in the middle. Correct


----------



## spoolindsm127

It's been 5-6 months since I bought my RX360 kit. Now every single thing from the kit has been upgraded except for the Rasa CPU Block









ThermoChill TA120.4
DIYINHK/Laing DDC-1T with Sanyo PCB
XSPC Single DDC Reservoir
AquagraFX GTX470
EK-FB RE3
EK-RAM Dominator

Pics coming soon


----------



## Ian Balisy

Just installed my new RX240 kit last night! Haven't done stress testing yet and I have to raise the rad above the case so the side door will close. Still, ass me please! =)

Pics to be posted once I fix the rad situation lol


----------



## [L]ummy

Woah, I just found this thread. The Rasa kits seriously awesome! Least for some rookie like me starting out in water cooling







Really glad to see this kit doing well in many computer systems.







Can't wait to add additional parts and see how much more "ooomph" I can obtain


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[L]ummy;13417577*
> Woah, I just found this thread. The Rasa kits seriously awesome! Least for some rookie like me starting out in water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really glad to see this kit doing well in many computer systems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to add additional parts and see how much more "ooomph" I can obtain


it is the 1 of the best starter kit u can have if ur just starting water cooling...and ull see a great difference on temps specially if ur rig is build for overclocking =)


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ian Balisy;13417361*
> Just installed my new RX240 kit last night! Haven't done stress testing yet and I have to raise the rad above the case so the side door will close. Still, ass me please! =)
> 
> Pics to be posted once I fix the rad situation lol


mbudden will add u when HE OR SHE login =)

btw welcome


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13294416*
> anyone here with pictures of a 932 case with a RX360 up top?


Mine should be in the original post.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;13415515*
> It's been 5-6 months since I bought my RX360 kit. Now every single thing from the kit has been upgraded except for the Rasa CPU Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ThermoChill TA120.4
> DIYINHK/Laing DDC-1T with Sanyo PCB
> XSPC Single DDC Reservoir
> AquagraFX GTX470
> EK-FB RE3
> EK-RAM Dominator
> 
> Pics coming soon


How's that DDC pump with the Sanyo PCB? I see the Toshiba 18W PCB makes those pumps go turbo charged, LOL!


----------



## Boyboyd

I know this has probably been asked before lots of times, but I just need ne answer before I buy.

I read the FAQ and I know that rx rads are thicker. But is the rx240 worth £40 more than the rs240? (£130 vs £170)


----------



## spoolindsm127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13419024*
> How's that DDC pump with the Sanyo PCB? I see the Toshiba 18W PCB makes those pumps go turbo charged, LOL!


Yea these pumps are known for their phenomenal power and small size. Although my pump is the "weaker" 12W version it seems to be plenty for my setup.

I never ran a swiftech pump, let alone a ddc. So I cannot compare to a stock mcp350 but this pump is very quiet. Has a hard drive type of whine/hum at the most. Can only hear it in a dead silent room and if standing by the case. Also my case is all ventilated in the front. And most importantly, tremendous head pressure!

On a side note I come to find myself not liking the XSPC res designs. Seem flawed or I may just be wrong. On the single ddc res, why is the inlet pointed and directed right above the pump impeller inlet? Any bubbles coming into the res get sucked right back into the pump


----------



## bennieboi6969

so time for new tubing wheres the best place to get it from in aus?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spoolindsm127;13426632*
> Yea these pumps are known for their phenomenal power and small size. Although my pump is the "weaker" 12W version it seems to be plenty for my setup.
> 
> I never ran a swiftech pump, let alone a ddc. So I cannot compare to a stock mcp350 but this pump is very quiet. Has a hard drive type of whine/hum at the most. Can only hear it in a dead silent room and if standing by the case. Also my case is all ventilated in the front. And most importantly, tremendous head pressure!
> 
> On a side note I come to find myself not liking the XSPC res designs. Seem flawed or I may just be wrong. On the single ddc res, why is the inlet pointed and directed right above the pump impeller inlet? Any bubbles coming into the res get sucked right back into the pump


That's a downspout design and it actually works the best IMO. The flow energy is re-directed back into the pump, making it more efficient. Plus there is no turbulence to create air like in stand-alone reservoirs that need a baffle when flow it too high. You just have to get all the large air pockets out. Once its running, just top off the reservoir and let it run. All the air will come out over a few days, nothing abnormal with most systems.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13426447*
> I know this has probably been asked before lots of times, but I just need ne answer before I buy.
> 
> I read the FAQ and I know that rx rads are thicker. But is the rx240 worth £40 more than the rs240? (£130 vs £170)


They cool better and allow you to use lower speed (quieter) fans. It's up to you whether it's worth the extra money. I would say if size is not an issue, go for the RX.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;13429706*
> They cool better and allow you to use lower speed (quieter) fans. It's up to you whether it's worth the extra money. I would say if size is not an issue, go for the RX.


Awesome, thanks. I'm going to try mount it to the back of my case on the outside, or onto the side window.


----------



## Dissentience

Yeah the reason I went with the RS is because I got the whole kit for $100 from Sidewinder








It turns out that the RS with fans just barely fits in the top of my case (<2mm clearance)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;13429958*
> Yeah the reason I went with the RS is because I got the whole kit for $100 from Sidewinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turns out that the RS with fans just barely fits in the top of my case (<2mm clearance)


Now THAT'S what I call a close fit!!!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Now THAT'S what I call a close fit!!!


my fans in my case are less then a single mm from the edge of my ram slots. i was worried at first.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


It turns out that the RS with fans just barely fits in the top of my case (<2mm clearance)


 Whats it close to ram slots and heatsink? I have a easy solution will post pic tomorrow if you need it.


----------



## Dissentience

MOSFET heatsinks on my board and RAM slots. I already have the rad mounted off-center a bit.


----------



## xstasy

Finally managed to mount the first fan on the rad, now thats 6gts in push pull


----------



## bennieboi6969

new pics


----------



## jammo2k5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xstasy;13437232*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally managed to mount the first fan on the rad, now thats 6gts in push pull


That's alot of cooling for a CPU only loop, are you going to add some GPU's to that i presume?


----------



## Swoosh19

what can i use to clean the new rads?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swoosh19;13438438*
> what can i use to clean the new rads?


Brand spanking new? Several rounds of hot water... I have also heard of people using a white vinegar and water solution (half and half). You will need to REALLY rinse it out afterwards.


----------



## Swoosh19

ok thanks..pretty sure it will smell if i don't rinse it...lol


----------



## Boyboyd

My rx240 kit is coming tomorrow. Going to see if I can track down some distilled water tonight.

I'm just gonna rise my rad out with hot water I think.


----------



## Darksoul844

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13438545*
> My rx240 kit is coming tomorrow. Going to see if I can track down some distilled water tonight.
> 
> I'm just gonna rise my rad out with hot water I think.


your luck! my kit doesn't come till thursday!!!!!!







its killing me inside!

just go to walmart or any food store should care them for about 70cents a gallon?


----------



## Boyboyd

I could try adsa, that's part of the wall-mart family...

I was just going to try halfords (an auto shop chain store) instead. I know they use distilled in car batteries and i'm told they stock it.

Otherwise i'll ask my friend for some de-ionised water. His dad is a prof. of biochemistry at leeds university and he has gallons of the stuff that's almost 100% deionised.

Edit: and i got free next-day delivery because i spent over £200


----------



## Darksoul844

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13438584*
> I could try adsa, that's part of the wall-mart family...
> 
> I was just going to try halfords (an auto shop chain store) instead. I know they use distilled in car batteries and i'm told they stock it.
> 
> Otherwise i'll ask my friend for some de-ionised water. His dad is a prof. of biochemistry at leeds university and he has gallons of the stuff that's almost 100% deionised.
> 
> Edit: and i got free next-day delivery because i spent over £200


since an its an auto store wouldn't they over charge you?

your better off with distilled water, de-ionised water just makes it not conductive but not clear from minerals..

i wasn't thinking i should of just found a site with free over night if i spend that much :/


----------



## Boyboyd

I'm gonna see what price it is. I need it before tomorrow. There's a chemist that does distilled near here, something like £6 / gallon but they have to order it over night.

I'm thinking about assembling it outside my case and leak testing it first. But then i'll have to drain it to install it









I'm also thinking about mounting it on the side window. It has room for a 240 rad, but i'm not sure if it will take the weight. anyone with a CM Scout tried this?

Edit: Would this be suitable for coolant if used with biocide.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_165335_langId_-1_categoryId_165629


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13438545*
> My rx240 kit is coming tomorrow. Going to see if I can track down some distilled water tonight.
> 
> I'm just gonna rise my rad out with hot water I think.


Pharmacy's usually carry it since it is also used to mix baby formulas.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT;13435070*
> Whats it close to ram slots and heatsink? I have a easy solution will post pic tomorrow if you need it.


Please post.


----------



## Behemoth777

I know this question has probably already been asked, is there any way to mount the rasa on an amd board without modding the stock backplate?


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Behemoth777*


I know this question has probably already been asked, is there any way to mount the rasa on an amd board without modding the stock backplate?


In my experience, the black screws for the Intel backplate screwed right into the stock AMD backplate with no issue. If that doesn't work, you can use the bolts that come with it to mount with no backplate


----------



## Havoknova

What do u thibk abou this pump??? It looks pretty good..and it has a top already...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30626

And ill just buy me a cylinder res with it..


----------



## Behemoth777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


In my experience, the black screws for the Intel backplate screwed right into the stock AMD backplate with no issue. If that doesn't work, you can use the bolts that come with it to mount with no backplate


Ah, gotcha. Thanks for clearing that up for me.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


What do u thibk abou this pump??? It looks pretty good..and it has a top already...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30626

And ill just buy me a cylinder res with it..


Kinda almost look's like a MCP655 but in a much nicer case. I know several manufacturers use the MCP655 (which really is a Laing D5 pump if I am not mistaken). I only mention this because that $115 price tag is kinda steep if you can get it for $60 or so.

If it isn't, then it seems like a powerful enough pump. Gotta look for reviews to see how the sound aspect of it is and such.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Kinda almost look's like a MCP655 but in a much nicer case. I know several manufacturers use the MCP655 (which really is a Laing D5 pump if I am not mistaken). I only mention this because that $115 price tag is kinda steep if you can get it for $60 or so.

If it isn't, then it seems like a powerful enough pump. Gotta look for reviews to see how the sound aspect of it is and such.


Yea im browsing last night and i come across with this pump...pre assembled too so u dont have to fak around with it..

And more cheaper than buying a pump and top separately...good thing about this is a d5 with speed control too..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Behemoth777*


Ah, gotcha. Thanks for clearing that up for me.










Thats what i did lastime is i used the inyel bolts..its not goin to go in that good,u need to put a little bit of force on it while screwing it to the back plate but it will definitly fit...


----------



## conmanxtreme

Ok my kit got here today!







now i was wondering do i just buy distilled water and a silver kill coil? or http://www.frozencpu.com/products/70...l_FA-0054.html do ya recommend using something like this with a silver kill coil?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Yea im browsing last night and i come across with this pump...pre assembled too so u dont have to fak around with it..

And more cheaper than buying a pump and top separately...good thing about this is a d5 with speed control too..










Yeah - your are probably right when we consider the addition of the top. Remember though... the d5 does come in both flavors. The MCP655-B is the single speed pump. The plain MCP655 is the speed controlled pump. The "B" is set at what many consider to be the "4" setting on the variable speed model.


----------



## Havoknova

And im think what res i need to get i got 2 res im trying to pick

1:from danger den

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26018

What u guys think??
Or this

2:magicool res 250ml

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21625


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


What do u thibk abou this pump??? It looks pretty good..and it has a top already...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30626

And ill just buy me a cylinder res with it..


You can do the same with a stock D5 style pump with speed control. The top is just adding G 1/4 threads. If your're using 1/2" ID hose, the stock D5 pump will do the same thing.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21689


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yeah - your are probably right when we consider the addition of the top. Remember though... the d5 does come in both flavors. The MCP655-B is the single speed pump. The plain MCP655 is the speed controlled pump. The "B" is set at what many consider to be the "4" setting on the variable speed model.


Yea this pump is with the speed control on it from 1-5 speed..but illdefenetly use 4 on it as what the B model ia using..but well atleast i can still use the dial on higher speed if i want too or lower speed..

All in all im getting a pump with top on it and speed control with less money than a non speed and a top..

But the question is how good is this pump base on manufacturer name..


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


And im think what res i need to get i got 2 res im trying to pick

1:from danger den

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26018

What u guys think??
Or this

2:magicool res 250ml

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21625


Are those threaded inside the reservoir? If the flow is too high, you will need a baffle or a screw in diverter port to keep it from aerating the coolant.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


You can do the same with a stock D5 style pump with speed control. The top is just adding G 1/4 threads. If your're using 1/2" ID hose, the stock D5 pump will do the same thing.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21689


Well the stock 1 is great but i need different hole configuration coz im goin to mount it on my rad stand ..thats the only thing im getting a pump with top on it..


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Are those threaded inside the reservoir? If the flow is too high, you will need a baffle or a screw in diverter port to keep it from aerating the coolant.


Thats the thing dude i think all the loop i got and restriction on my loop i think im not goin to worry about the overflow..but if ever its strong ill just lower the speed


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Yea this pump is with the speed control on it from 1-5 speed..but illdefenetly use 4 on it as what the B model ia using..but well atleast i can still use the dial on higher speed if i want too or lower speed..

All in all im getting a pump with top on it and speed control with less money than a non speed and a top..

But the question is how good is this pump base on manufacturer name..


Knew I had seen it. Here's the top itself.

This is the dress up kit I personally like...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Knew I had seen it. Here's the top itself.

This is the dress up kit I personally like...


Yea the alphacool top looks like the bitspower top..hmmm i think ill give alphacool a shot..


----------



## wetfit9

Will a rx360 fix in the top of an haf x case. If so could you show pictures and how tight of fit is it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13448900*
> Will a rx360 fix in the top of an haf x case. If so could you show pictures and how tight of fit is it.


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/951407-buildlog-dont-hassle-haf-x-updated.html

Its a real tight squeeze, but its possible. pm "septro" for more details.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

So I got my fittings today and well, they fit. lol.

Oh, and I got a red corner LED too. I hate it. Should've gotten white.


----------



## moto211

Does anyone have any experience with the RX360 kit in a Lian Li Rocketfish case? Did the rad and fans fit inside on top and still clear the RAM or did you have to do something like mounting the rad inside and the fans outside? I'm going to mock mine up today, but I want to get an idea of what I'm working with.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...x-updated.html

Its a real tight squeeze, but its possible. pm "septro" for more details.


Thanks, If only my G1 Assassin could fit in a 932.


----------



## Necrodox

I have a RASA X360 a HAF-X and a P55 FTW motherboard. I'm having a bit of a dilemma, the P55 FTW motherboard is a equipped with heatsinks at the top and left portions of the CPU socket. I could not get the RASA X360 mounted at the top of the HAF-X without removing the top heatsink on the motherboard, I asked a couple people and the heatsink was sitting on top of my MOSFETs. I was told that this would present problems in the future if I left the heatsink off.

I don't wan to deal with those problems so I promptly took out the radiator, drained the system and am trying to figure out how I'm going to mount on the back of the HAF-X. Would the big RX360 be stable at the back mounting it on the 120mm holes? Also how would the fans be oriented if I were to install it in the back of the HAF-X? Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Necrodox*


I have a RASA X360 a HAF-X and a P55 FTW motherboard. I'm having a bit of a dilemma, the P55 FTW motherboard is a equipped with heatsinks at the top and left portions of the CPU socket. I could not get the RASA X360 mounted at the top of the HAF-X without removing the top heatsink on the motherboard, I asked a couple people and the heatsink was sitting on top of my MOSFETs. I was told that this would present problems in the future if I left the heatsink off.

I don't wan to deal with those problems so I promptly took out the radiator, drained the system and am trying to figure out how I'm going to mount on the back of the HAF-X. Would the big RX360 be stable at the back mounting it on the 120mm holes? Also how would the fans be oriented if I were to install it in the back of the HAF-X? Any help is greatly appreciated.


Should be fine,Just make sure all 4 screws are tight and stay tight.


----------



## Necrodox

How can I mount it with the fans though? If I mount it in the back I'll need to set the fans for a pull configuration as opposed to push.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Necrodox*


How can I mount it with the fans though? If I mount it in the back I'll need to set the fans for a pull configuration as opposed to push.


That seems to be the only way,Now you could have a fan between the back of the case and the rad[Pusher fan],Then on the other side make all the fans pull.


----------



## Necrodox

*Damnit.

Maybe I could just smaller screws to mount the fans onto the radiator and from what I understand the fans actually have another opening on the other end. I could just get some nuts and tighten it from the other side of the fan and mount the radiator directly from the fan.

I doubt it'll break, just gotta' get the nut lol.

Radiator -Screw- Fan -Screw- Mount*


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Necrodox*


*Damnit.

Maybe I could just smaller screws to mount the fans onto the radiator and from what I understand the fans actually have another opening on the other end. I could just get some nuts and tighten it from the other side of the fan and mount the radiator directly from the fan.

I doubt it'll break, just gotta' get the nut lol.

Radiator -Screw- Fan -Screw- Mount*


That should work,Just be careful.


----------



## Boyboyd

My kit never arrived today. If i didn't get free shipping i'd be demanding a refund on my next day delivery.


----------



## Necrodox

Alright well I got home and got ready to mount the radiator but it seems I can't, the screws that hold the radiator from the bracket to the case don't fit the HAF-X holes.

Any solutions?

A certain screw recommendation of some sort?

It's impossible trying to mount this thing to the back, nothing works jesus christ.

This RASA kit is proving to be a bigger frustration than expected.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;13454851*
> I have a RASA X360 a HAF-X and a P55 FTW motherboard. I'm having a bit of a dilemma, the P55 FTW motherboard is a equipped with heatsinks at the top and left portions of the CPU socket. I could not get the RASA X360 mounted at the top of the HAF-X without removing the top heatsink on the motherboard, I asked a couple people and the heatsink was sitting on top of my MOSFETs. I was told that this would present problems in the future if I left the heatsink off.
> 
> I don't wan to deal with those problems so I promptly took out the radiator, drained the system and am trying to figure out how I'm going to mount on the back of the HAF-X. Would the big RX360 be stable at the back mounting it on the 120mm holes? Also how would the fans be oriented if I were to install it in the back of the HAF-X? Any help is greatly appreciated.


Wow, that P55 FTW mobo has an abnormally tall VRM cooler. Not sure what EVGA was thinking when they made that. I wonder if you could find a smaller cooler for it?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Funny how this thread quieted down when the folding competition began!!!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13459242*
> Funny how this thread quieted down when the folding competition began!!!


Not for me


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13459242*
> Funny how this thread quieted down when the folding competition began!!!


Are u folding kah???

Well me ill just do it on the next comp..rigt now just checkin all my stuff is good..and i got a rig build coming soon..


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13459388*
> Are u folding kah???
> 
> Well me ill just do it on the next comp..rigt now just checkin all my stuff is good..and i got a rig build coming soon..


A little... not 24/7 though. Mrs. Kah wouldn't have it. Something about the high spinning whine of a GPU fan at night, in our bedroom, that does not go well with her when she tries to get her beauty sleep. Just getting the hang of this folding thing. Good cause but I like to play my games as well. Am a bit hooked on Assassins Creed 2 (on hold while I fold) at the moment.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13459362*
> Not for me


Bahhh... don't you have a car or two to sell??? Hehehehehe...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13459448*
> Bahhh... don't you have a car or two to sell??? Hehehehehe...


LOL, I had enough of cars for the week. Need to start tweakin my I7 960 & UD7 mobo OC now.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13459431*
> A little... not 24/7 though. Mrs. Kah wouldn't have it. Something about the high spinning whine of a GPU fan at night, in our bedroom, that does not go well with her when she tries to get her beauty sleep. Just getting the hang of this folding thing. Good cause but I like to play my games as well. Am a bit hooked on Assassins Creed 2 (on hold while I fold) at the moment.


well time to watercool the gpus then wahahaha...

time to see some water on those beauty


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13458116*
> Wow, that P55 FTW mobo has an abnormally tall VRM cooler. Not sure what EVGA was thinking when they made that. I wonder if you could find a smaller cooler for it?


I was considering it but I just went with sticking the radiator on the outside, it took me quite a bit of time to figure out how I'm going to mount it using a push configuration but with some brainstorming and a trip to home depot I got it all up and running and am very happy.









My 16GB of RAM got in too, I'll be sure to post pictures when I get back online.


----------



## Necrodox

Double post. :x


----------



## Annex

Anyone have any idea how much of a temp drop you should see after adding a second set of fans to an rs360 cpu loop?


----------



## EarlZ

Im interested in either getting the RS240 or RS360 kit and Im using a Lian Li PC-P80 casing, has anyone here used such a kit on the casing? If it would be possible to have this w/o modding anything from the case?

http://www.lian-li.com/v2/en/product...25&ss_index=61

Also right now im using a D14, and say I get about 80c at X.XGhz with X volts, I would like to keep the noise level at the same as the D14.. would it be possible to drop the temps from 80 maybe down to 65c?


----------



## Boyboyd

If you're going for silent but cool, take a look at the RX series of rads. They're a bit more pricy but they're thicker, and have wider fin spacing. Meaning you can use low speed fans to cool just as effectively.

I'm at work now, waiting for my damn kit to arrive. Should have been here yesterday.


----------



## Farih

could anyone tell me about the noise levels of the pump in the XSPC X20 750 Dual bay pump resevoir ?

i am thinking of getting it, but delivery times is very long on it.

i found another pump+resevoir combo
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...-0-Bundle.html
just dunno wich is better, i like the pumps to be silent


----------



## NCoastTweaker

Took the plunge! Installed in a mini atx case.. Have you ever seen 10 lbs of $hit in a 5 lb bag? My install is not as slick as some of the other postings but at least it doesn't leak... yet!..









I am now the embarrased owner of a water cooled socket 939 HTPC! And I couldn't be less ashamed!...


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCoastTweaker*


Took the plunge! Installed in a mini atx case.. Have you ever seen 10 lbs of $hit in a 5 lb bag? My install is not as slick as some of the other postings but at least it doesn't leak... yet!..









I am now the embarrased owner of a water cooled socket 939 HTPC! And I couldn't be less ashamed!...










Nice job,And looks good.


----------



## NCoastTweaker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


Nice job,And looks good.


Thx man!, this is my first water cooled rig... ckd out yer build... man those newer amd dual cores sure do clock up good!... I can't get past 2.9 with the old fx-60... I was shocked to see AsRock manufacture a mobo with a newer chipset for skt 939 so I jumped on it and recycled my old CPU... Its ok for HTPC, but not for hard core gaming... I don't have real low temps even with water cooling.. but its better than what I was getting on air... 60C and up..

Now it wavers between 52-54C... not great, but considering I have everything jammed into a tiny case its not too bad...


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCoastTweaker*


Thx man!, this is my first water cooled rig... ckd out yer build... man those newer amd dual cores sure do clock up good!... I can't get past 2.9 with the old fx-60... I was shocked to see AsRock manufacture a mobo with a newer chipset for skt 939 so I jumped on it and recycled my old CPU... Its ok for HTPC, but not for hard core gaming... I don't have real low temps even with water cooling.. but its better than what I was getting on air... 60C and up..

Now it wavers between 52-54C... not great, but considering I have everything jammed into a tiny case its not too bad...


Yeah,My old Opteron 2.0 would only do 2.8.But the wifes Athlon II x2 will do 3.86(Default is 3.0).


----------



## NCoastTweaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMOCO;13466093*
> Yeah,My old Opteron 2.0 would only do 2.8.But the wifes Athlon II x2 will do 3.86(Default is 3.0).


Yeah, I gotta break down and get a newer AM3 board... I've pounded skt939 into the ground... I just wanted to see the old Toledo Cores do Win 7 x64..
and to be honest.. I was pleasantly suprised at how good Win 7 x64 runs on this retro rig!.. but to have a cpu running at 3.86ghz just blows me away! I'll bet that rig of yours runs sweet! Makes me wanna throw rocks at mine now!..


----------



## _s3v3n_

Please add me;


----------



## Cordova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_s3v3n_;13466793*
> Please add me;


That looks amazing!


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NCoastTweaker;13465980*
> Took the plunge! Installed in a mini atx case.. Have you ever seen 10 lbs of $hit in a 5 lb bag? My install is not as slick as some of the other postings but at least it doesn't leak... yet!..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am now the embarrased owner of a water cooled socket 939 HTPC! And I couldn't be less ashamed!...


Looks S&S (simple and sexy)


----------



## rugox

Hey guys,

Is it possible to change the pump that is inside the bay res? I want to change it to a more silent pump.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;13468466*
> Hey guys,
> 
> Is it possible to change the pump that is inside the bay res? I want to change it to a more silent pump.


No. Plus what would you install if you could? It's designed around the stock X20 750 pump.


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


Anyone have any idea how much of a temp drop you should see after adding a second set of fans to an rs360 cpu loop?


Don't want this question to get buried


----------



## Penumbra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_s3v3n_;13466793*
> Please add me;


Wow, this is great. I'm about to build my RX360 with a Asus P8p67 Deluxe inside a Haf x, just like your setup? Is that an ASUS mobo? Did you have clearance issues with the radiator fan bumping up against the mobo heatsink? did you leave the 200mm case fan above in a push/pull config? Also, did you use the fans that came with the RX360 kit or did you upgrade?

Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks,


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;13470038*
> Don't want this question to get buried


i had about a 5C drop at load with push pull.

using scythe kaze jyuni 1900

idle is basically the same (on the rs360 btw)


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badatgames18*


i had about a 5C drop at load with push pull.

using scythe kaze jyuni 1900

idle is basically the same (on the rs360 btw)


I'm gonna be using AP-15s if I do decide to go p/p.. Was there a noticable increase in noise?


----------



## badatgames18

not really... sound isn't linear so just because you have double the amount of fans doesn't mean you get double the amount of noise


----------



## terence52

Hi mbudden,
can you remove my name off the list? 
the kit have cause me nothing by headache ever since the pump decided to blow and spit out brown plastic bits. even now i got the wrong pump..


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


Hi mbudden,
can you remove my name off the list? 
the kit have cause me nothing by headache ever since the pump decided to blow and spit out brown plastic bits. even now i got the wrong pump..










Sorry to hear about that, but don't give up on water. Spend a little more and get a decent pump or hit the f/s section. I know that xspc is not the foremost in quality but most of their stuff performs very good.


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Sorry to hear about that, but don't give up on water. Spend a little more and get a decent pump or hit the f/s section. I know that xspc is not the foremost in quality but most of their stuff performs very good.


nah.. i gotten a laing d5 to realize that it uses a 1/2 barb size and i am using 3/8 tubing now.
i know. but the arse of a rep just refused to send me another pump just because i lack the receipt. seriously i am quite tired of it already. it have been 2 weeks since my wcing stuff been broken down. maybe i will try water again the next time i overhaul


----------



## ezveedub

The pump works, but its not the greatest and not serviceable. I've swapped over to a DDC pump with XSPC res. I keep the stock X20 pump as a back up now.


----------



## wermad

I just grabbed a ddc 3.2 and added the xspc acrylic top, it has g1/4 threads so I can run any size fitting. the D5 has a top you can just add: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=24823

Or just sell the D5, get a ddc 3.1 or 3.2, a member sells the 3.1 version cheap, since they come stock w/ 3/8 nylon barbs.


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13473249*
> I just grabbed a ddc 3.2 and added the xspc acrylic top, it has g1/4 threads so I can run any size fitting. the D5 has a top you can just add: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=24823
> 
> Or just sell the D5, get a ddc 3.1 or 3.2, a member sells the 3.1 version cheap, since they come stock w/ 3/8 nylon barbs.


i have seen the top but money is abit tight for me now.. :X
i am now selling the d5 at my local forum as i prefer to do cod transactions. :X
but thanks for the suggestion


----------



## Boyboyd

I've heard a lot about this pump lottery. Really hope i get a good one. I've had a lot of bad luck lately with buying things on the intertubes.

I've decided it's best to empty my case, assemble, leak test, then re-install everything.

I might use more tubing than I need. So i can put the radiator in the gap when my window is open. Cold air from outside ftw.


----------



## Swoosh19

Here is my kit...doing good so far no leaks or watsoever..
Bleeding time


----------



## cbm369

Hi to all







,

Just ordered a RS360 kit from FrozenCPU.com

I hope to get it in time to install this weekend so I can start pushing towards 5 ghz!


----------



## Yokes29

Hello XSPC owners! I have another question for you guys:

I have a RX360 with GT-AP15's in a push/pull configuration. The RX360 is also externally mounted on my HAF-X case. I'm currently cooling 2 AMD 6970's @950/1450 (OC limit in CCC Overdrive - no voltage bump) If i add my 3rd 6970 (which is currently cooled by an Xtreme Plus) in my GPU loop, will my RX360 still be able to handle the 3rd card? - My gaming temps for my 2 cards are: GPU1 = 39/40c GPU2 = 40/42c.
I dont mind if temps go up by a little bit, but if i add the 3rd card will my temps go up significantly? like an additional 12c -15c?
I'd like to hear everyone's input. I'd like to stay with the RX360, instead of spending the extra cash for a RX480.
Thanks guys


----------



## Dissentience

My guess is that overall temps could go up 5-10C, if it goes up too much you could always add an RX120 to the loop.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbm369;13478044*
> Hi to all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> 
> Just ordered a RS360 kit from FrozenCPU.com
> 
> I hope to get it in time to install this weekend so I can start pushing towards 5 ghz!


Welcome...thats great..dont forget to get some pix


----------



## Havoknova

My danger den torture rack came in today...it will be a busy weekend


----------



## Yokes29

So an additional 5-10c change...hmmmmmm...
Well i guess i can live with that, considering i wont be overclocking my cards any further.
I also wont be able to add a RX120 to the loop. I don't have space and i don't wanna mod my case.
Darn.
Thanks for the info Dissentience!


----------



## Fuddy

Just wanted to show u new owners what the tubing looks like after a month







straight up distilled water and a kill coil

last month, first day of install:










today:


----------



## fazio93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


Just wanted to show u new owners what the tubing looks like after a month







straight up distilled water and a kill coil

last month, first day of install:










today:











doesn't green = algae growth? the tubing is supposed to turn brown/white i believe


----------



## Fuddy

res is crystal clear though


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fazio93*


doesn't green = algae growth?


wouldn't the res be green also?

the water in the res is crystal clear like day one


----------



## _s3v3n_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penumbra*


Wow, this is great. I'm about to build my RX360 with a Asus P8p67 Deluxe inside a Haf x, just like your setup? Is that an ASUS mobo? Did you have clearance issues with the radiator fan bumping up against the mobo heatsink? did you leave the 200mm case fan above in a push/pull config? Also, did you use the fans that came with the RX360 kit or did you upgrade?

Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks,



Is that an ASUS mobo? - Yes, Asus Evo.

Did you have clearance issues with the radiator fan bumping up against the mobo heatsink? 
- Not at all with regards to fan bumping the mobo heatsink. It took me a while to put the 8-pin power connector since I didn't want it to end up touching the rad (this is all me being a cosmetically anal about it), but there is actually NO issues with it.

Did you leave the 200mm case fan above in a push/pull config?
- I removed the 200mm above and installed 6 120mm push-pull setup.

Also, did you use the fans that came with the RX360 kit or did you upgrade?
- No since they are way too noisy.

I had a 120mm rad installed right next to the PSU but I had to remove it due to flow issues. I still think I need that 120 rad installed after GPU2 coz now my res/pump combo gets really warm when I started gaming.

When gaming;
GPUs 50 on load 28 idle
CPU 72 on load 29 idle


----------



## Kahbrohn

@Fuddy

If you have kill coils or are using PT Nuke... no algae. trust me.

What you see happening to the tubing is a chemical process with the plastic itself. see, to make plastic flexible manufacturers use something called plasticizers. These plasticizers are what is causing that tubing to cloud up like that. as far as we know, it really wont harm the loop for a few months. The process takes place ONLY on the plastic. thats why the water in the res is crystal clear.

To avoid this you would need to use "plasticizer free" tubing. Tygon has it. A bit more expensive but a lot less heartache. I also believe that colored tubing suffers from this a bit less as well but do not take my word on that. Most of us here have just opted to change the tubing out. I use the Primochill red tubing and it is fairly clean after about 3 months.


----------



## Behemoth777

Guys, I just got my rasa kit in today, and I am in love. This new pump that I got is soooo much better than the 750 pump I had before, it is extremely quiet compared to a sharp buzzing noise. And if that wasn't enough, I was surprised enough to find that it came with chromed out black barbs instead of the regular plain chrome barbs.









Will post pics when I have everything all set up.


----------



## Boyboyd

That's why I ordered some replacement tubing. I'm not even going to install the stock stuff.

Unfortunately everywhere in the UK is out of 7/16" white tubing, so i got UV red.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Behemoth777*


Guys, I just got my rasa kit in today, and I am in love. This new pump that I got is soooo much better than the 750 pump I had before, it is extremely quiet compared to a sharp buzzing noise. And if that wasn't enough, I was surprised enough to find that it came with chromed out black barbs instead of the regular plain chrome barbs.









Will post pics when I have everything all set up.


very nice...

thats what i got too a silent pump...no complain about the kit and its still running stong....

about the bard thats crazy...i got the crome 1's


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


@Fuddy

If you have kill coils or are using PT Nuke... no algae. trust me.

What you see happening to the tubing is a chemical process with the plastic itself. see, to make plastic flexible manufacturers use something called plasticizers. These plasticizers are what is causing that tubing to cloud up like that. as far as we know, it really wont harm the loop for a few months. The process takes place ONLY on the plastic. thats why the water in the res is crystal clear.

To avoid this you would need to use "plasticizer free" tubing. Tygon has it. A bit more expensive but a lot less heartache. I also believe that colored tubing suffers from this a bit less as well but do not take my word on that. Most of us here have just opted to change the tubing out. I use the Primochill red tubing and it is fairly clean after about 3 months.


yeah, that's what I thought... that's why I posted the pics. To warn owners to just swap the tubing before setting it up


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


yeah, that's what I thought... that's why I posted the pics. To warn owners to just swap the tubing before setting it up










me,..

when i got my kit i never used my stock tubing at all...and its till here on the original package wahaha rottening..lolz


----------



## fazio93

Just ordered the rs240 kit from frozen cpu and 10' of 7/16" durelene from sidewinders.









there were 50 in stock yesterday. only 39 now. those kits sell fast


----------



## terence52

the durelene tubing at least is a far sight better then the stock one supplied. 
anyway. ordered a ddc with a restop. should be able to rebuild soon hopefully.


----------



## fazio93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


the durelene tubing at least is a far sight better then the stock one supplied.


yea i didn't need any high quality primo or tygon for tight bends, etc. i just don't want it to turn doo-doo colored after a month. lol


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fazio93*


yea i didn't need any high quality primo or tygon for tight bends, etc. i just don't want it to turn doo-doo colored after a month. lol


LOL. it will not. mine at least lasted 3 months without discolouring..


----------



## Darksoul844

....


----------



## Havoknova

got it assembled

















my combo


----------



## bennieboi6969

nice now need a build with them


----------



## HiLuckyB

Little update to my rig. Replaced my 3 5770's for a XFX 6990, And I just installed a EK waterblock


----------



## Darksoul844

...


----------



## Boyboyd

[/URL]










What would you say is best?

Assemble and leak test outside the case
Empty the case, assemble and fill the loop, and leak test. Re-install the parts into the case.
I'm leaning towards option 1 atm. But it means jump starting my spare PSU.

The post above mine made me realise i've forgotten to order fan grills too :S


----------



## Kahbrohn

Personally... Leak testing outside of the case is not a bad idea BUT if you take it slow, check and double check each step of the way as you build, doing things inside the case the first time around is not a problem.

Personally, the way I see it... you leak test outside the case you still need to undo everything and reassemble everything inside the case again. This give you twice the opportunity to miss making a good connection or something. So, I just build it all inside the case the first time around.

The case come with a jumper connector for your 24-pin connector. this will allow you to power up the PSU and feed the pump without applying power to your motherboard and such which minimized any problem should you see a leak.


----------



## Boyboyd

That's a good point. Unless i can somehow put it into the case without disassembling it.

I really just want to check to see if my pump/res is ok before i install it. But i suppose i'll be able to see any cracks without water.

Looks like i'll be taking my PC apart this weekend then. It takes me hours, lol.


----------



## Darksoul844

they say leak test 24 hours but for me i just put everything in and leak tested inside the pc with the jumper thing they gave you so no power to motherboard or anything other then water pump so if there was a leak i would just have to dry it before plugging it back in. it saves you time and it doesn't tamper with your tubes cause you got it in the first time, doesn't mean you'll get it back in the 2nd time with out leaks...

and if you order the kit it comes with fan grill for every fan that comes with the kit


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13488005*
> That's a good point. Unless i can somehow put it into the case without disassembling it.
> 
> I really just want to check to see if my pump/res is ok before i install it. But i suppose i'll be able to see any cracks without water.
> 
> Looks like i'll be taking my PC apart this weekend then. It takes me hours, lol.


I simply install the barbs and assemble the parts outside the case when it comes to a new kit. Since this is your first time and also for all the parts, you want to make sure you have no water leaks with the block, rad, or reservoir. If everything is good, then you only have to install and trim the hoses to fit exactly. The hoses are the least likely to have issues IMO. I have extra used tubing laying around, so I use it for physical testing of parts.


----------



## Kahbrohn

I have taken apart my loop at least 6 times so far between maintenance or component replacement. As I mentioned (as have others), if you are careful enough, you should not have a problem. I leak tested for about 2 hours personally.

Also, if anything gets wet, dab with a towel (preferably lint free paper towel), let it dry out overnight and use compressed air to blow away any paper or cloth towel fibers away.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darksoul844;13488024*
> they say leak test 24 hours but for me i just put everything in and leak tested inside the pc with the jumper thing they gave you so no power to motherboard or anything other then water pump so if there was a leak i would just have to dry it before plugging it back in. it saves you time and it doesn't tamper with your tubes cause you got it in the first time, doesn't mean you'll get it back in the 2nd time with out leaks...
> 
> and if you order the kit it comes with fan grill for every fan that comes with the kit


I'm going to leak test overnight tonight. I'll have to leave some paper towel down though, so i'll be able to see if there are any leaks when i wake up (inb4 the whole loop leaks and drips down through the floor to downstarirs...)

Looking forward to going back to watercooling









So glad it comes with grills. I'll have 4 fans and only 2 grills though. Nevermind.


----------



## Kahbrohn

I like the look of grilles on the fans inside my case. It also protects fingers!


----------



## Boyboyd

I managed to catch my knuckle on a delta fan last week, i actually swore lol.

I might go with just a push fan config, i'll loose about 4-5 degrees but it will make mounting easier (rx rad) and i'll have the right amount of fan grills. 2 AP15s should be able to handle it right?


----------



## Havoknova

leak test for me is like 10 minutes then put everything together....hehehe

if ur confident on what u build then ur all good to go...but if ur not then u need to leak test...=)


----------



## badatgames18

my first wc loop i leak tested for two days... my second one i didn't even bother :\


----------



## Boyboyd

My plumbing skills are terrible. As are my PC building skills.

I might leak test for a few hours. He who dares wins.

Also, does anyone know of a simple replacement for biocide. I'm not familiar with the differences between biocide, herbicide, and pesticide. I feel the need to use a few drops of bleach but i think that would wreck the plastic in the resovoir.


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13488149*
> My plumbing skills are terrible. As are my PC building skills.
> 
> I might leak test for a few hours. He who dares wins.
> 
> Also, does anyone know of a simple replacement for biocide. I'm not familiar with the differences between biocide, herbicide, and pesticide. I feel the need to use a few drops of bleach but i think that would wreck the plastic in the resovoir.


a silver kill coil will work just fine(find something that is 99% silver and stick it in there)... or if you have some diluted copper sulfate that would even be better... just make sure it isn't too concentrated.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13488149*
> My plumbing skills are terrible. As are my PC building skills.
> 
> I might leak test for a few hours. He who dares wins.
> 
> Also, does anyone know of a simple replacement for biocide. I'm not familiar with the differences between biocide, herbicide, and pesticide. I feel the need to use a few drops of bleach but i think that would wreck the plastic in the resovoir.


Silver kill coils... They are just small strips of .999 silver that you coil around a pen or something and either drop inside your res or install inside one of your tubes. Silver kills everything. Highly effective in distilled water. Gives some bling to your rig.


----------



## Darksoul844

....


----------



## Boyboyd

My auntie is a high school chemistry teacher, she could probably get me some copper sulphate.

Nowhere has stock of killcoils *or* PT nuke in the UK at the moment. I just need a quick replacement until they come back in stock.

Edit: As for the water. I only have de-ionised. Distilled is hard to find over here.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13488179*
> My auntie is a high school chemistry teacher, she could probably get me some copper sulphate.
> 
> Nowhere has stock of killcoils *or* PT nuke in the UK at the moment. I just need a quick replacement until they come back in stock.


Hobby shops or jewelry supply stores have the coils. The strips are about maybe 2-3 mm in width (about 1/8 inch in my measurement system). They are pretty cheap also. just make sure its .999 I paid about 2-3 euros (US$5) for about 8 inches (20 cm) length.


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13488179*
> My auntie is a high school chemistry teacher, she could probably get me some copper sulphate.
> 
> Nowhere has stock of killcoils *or* PT nuke in the UK at the moment. I just need a quick replacement until they come back in stock.


copper sulfate is widely available in places that sell fish/ aquariums ... make sure it's not too concentrated since that stuff is really toxic, and kill coils shouldn't be to hard to track down, like the guy above me said, make sure it's as close to pure silver as it can be

gl


----------



## Boyboyd

Thanks a lot guys. There's a jewlers up the street from where i work. I'll ask about the strips of 99.999% silver.

Or find a store that sells copper sulphate.


----------



## Rystofer

I just installed a XSPC 750 RS360 and so far so good. Very cool (get it?). Okay ran a leak test for about, ohhhhh 30 minutes. 1 leak at the radiator intake. I forgot to snug up that barb, oops. I did have a problem with the bottle of PC Ice I used on the initial instruction. I had this bottle for about a year on the shelf there was a blob of what appeared to be algae upon further investigation it looks like some plasticized material. Not pretty to look at in your new water cooling system. I was a bit miffed. I drained the system and started over with a new bottle, what a pain in the backside.

I'd like to get some recommendations for a NB cooling block.

Oh and I bought a silver coil and placed it at the input tube at the water block however when I pulled the liquid from the first install I forgot to put it back in. In the interest in water flow wouldn't it be smarter to place the coil in the reservoir?


----------



## Boyboyd

I think most people do place the coil in the resovoir, yeah.

How does everyone structure their loops? I'm planning on going res--> rad --> CPU --> res. I might upgrade to a water chiller around christmas time if i get into watercooling.

I've already read the first 1000 posts of this thread, and i've learnt a lot. Mostly about AMD mounting brackets though, lol.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13488375*
> I think most people do place the coil in the resovoir, yeah.
> 
> How does everyone structure their loops? I'm planning on going res--> rad --> CPU --> res. I might upgrade to a water chiller around christmas time if i get into watercooling.
> 
> I've already read the first 1000 posts of this thread, and i've learnt a lot. Mostly about AMD mounting brackets though, lol.


It doesn't matter in which order you run the loop, since it's a single CPU loop.


----------



## Boyboyd

That's a good point. I've been thinking about this too much.

Going to mount my rad as high up on the back of the case as i can. That way i can use the cool air of mother nature to get lower temps.










You can see that my PC is backing onto a window that is always open. It helps my air cooling temps by as much as 10 degrees.


----------



## Boyboyd

Ok. Everything is installed now. Except that it loads at 80 degrees and then keeps climbing. Idle is 34 degrees.

The pump is working, there are no kinks, the tubing is right. I can't figure this out :S I've re-mounted once.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Ok. Everything is installed now. Except that it loads at 80 degrees and then keeps climbing. Idle is 34 degrees.

The pump is working, there are no kinks, the tubing is right. I can't figure this out :S I've re-mounted once.

Any thoughts?


Is the rad hot?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Ok. Everything is installed now. Except that it loads at 80 degrees and then keeps climbing. Idle is 34 degrees.

The pump is working, there are no kinks, the tubing is right. I can't figure this out :S I've re-mounted once.

Any thoughts?


Is that on stock clocks???or did u OC it already???


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Ok. Everything is installed now. Except that it loads at 80 degrees and then keeps climbing. Idle is 34 degrees.

The pump is working, there are no kinks, the tubing is right. I can't figure this out :S I've re-mounted once.

Any thoughts?


Did you take the plastic cover off the cpu block? Are you sure you got all the air out of the rad?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Did you take the plastic cover off the cpu block? Are you sure you got all the air out of the rad?


Excellent guess! I forgot to take the plastic off









I feel like such a noob. I'm playing cod4 now and it's at 37 degrees.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Did you take the plastic cover off the cpu block? Are you sure you got all the air out of the rad?


The usual problem is that plastic on the block which is barely noticeable. In essence there are "2" pieces of plastic on the block if I am not mistaken.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Excellent guess! I forgot to take the plastic off









I feel like such a noob. I'm playing cod4 now and it's at 37 degrees.


Don't feel bad. I know of at least 4 more people (whose name will remain unmentioned to protect the innocent) who have done the same.


----------



## Boyboyd

It was that. Apparently it's a fairly common noob mistake.

Unfortuantely my GTs never got delivered, so i'm using noisy delta fans until they get here.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Excellent guess! I forgot to take the plastic off









I feel like such a noob. I'm playing cod4 now and it's at 37 degrees.


Can i laugh???

Wow ur the 3rd guy did that..im feeling the same thing..u cant see the plastic if u dont shove ur eyes on it..

Now no more high temps for u...heheheh..


----------



## Boyboyd

Well, saying that...

What sort of temps should i be seeing at 5GHz with 1.375v? Because it's loading at 65 :\\

That's the same as i was getting on air. I'm positive that it's mounted right. I used the same method i did last time (cept i took the plastic off, rofl) and it had a near-perfect distribution.

Does the TIM take hours to cure? My idle temps are 33 and playing cod4 earlier i got less than 40. Why is my load so high









I know i should be seeing better load temps than this.


----------



## Havoknova

Well u got an intel chip i believe they load higher than amd..no idea what u should get on ur intel chip..but atleast ur not hitting 80's now hehehe..


----------



## Boyboyd

Yeah it's an improvement, but i've only gained about 10 degrees over my air cooler.

I'm gonna let it cure overnight. If it's not much better tomorrow i'll try a re-seat.

Thanks for all the help


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Yeah it's an improvement, but i've only gained about 10 degrees over my air cooler.

I'm gonna let it cure overnight. If it's not much better tomorrow i'll try a re-seat.

Thanks for all the help










What are you using for TIM? Also, how many turns on the thumbs screws for the CPU block?


----------



## Boyboyd

I can't remember but they're thumb tight.

I'm using "Akasa silver based thermal compound". I have some AS5 but I misplaced it


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I can't remember but they're thumb tight.

I'm using "Akasa silver based thermal compound". I have some AS5 but I misplaced it










You really have to count the exact turns on each thumb screw. I notch mark my thumb screws and apply 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 turns in from all the way out. If you're off on the thumbs screws, the block will not sit evenly flat on the CPU.


----------



## Boyboyd

I'll give that a shot. I'll go for 2.5 turns.

This means i have to apply the TIM again doesn't it







because of air bubbles.

I found a blue LED light in the package. Not sure if it was supposed to be there.


----------



## Darksoul844

....


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I'll give that a shot. I'll go for 2.5 turns.

This means i have to apply the TIM again doesn't it







because of air bubbles.

I found a blue LED light in the package. Not sure if it was supposed to be there.


Yeah the LED is to stick into one of the holes on the back of the res


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I'll give that a shot. I'll go for 2.5 turns.

This means i have to apply the TIM again doesn't it







because of air bubbles.

I found a blue LED light in the package. Not sure if it was supposed to be there.




wow its so colorfull


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


I'll give that a shot. I'll go for 2.5 turns.

This means i have to apply the TIM again doesn't it







because of air bubbles.

I found a blue LED light in the package. Not sure if it was supposed to be there.


That pix looks really nice...


----------



## Rystofer

I'm such a dufuss I didn't see the other replys sorry...


----------



## InF3Rnus

Check out my new RS 240 setup







!
As you can tell, I'm a UV whore








My case is also a little unorganized cable wise, as I am leak testing so I had to pull all of them out









I'm in now too, right?


----------



## Penumbra

Hi,

I got an Haf-X waiting on delivery of a RASA 750 RX360 kit with 6 GT AP-15 for a push/pull config. I'm planning to mount the rad internally and was wondering what kind of screws come with the kit? Would i need to buy longer 6/32 screws for the push/pull?

Thanks,

ps. i'm a watercooling noob


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penumbra*


Hi,

I got an Haf-X waiting on delivery of a RASA 750 RX360 kit with 6 GT AP-15 for a push/pull config. I'm planning to mount the rad internally and was wondering what kind of screws come with the kit? Would i need to buy longer 6/32 screws for the push/pull?

Thanks,

ps. i'm a watercooling noob


I think tho bolts will be alright..

But u will need to buy 12 more bolts if ur goin for push/pull coz the kit comes with bolts just for 1 side


----------



## Rystofer

Arghhhhhhhh! Alright I'm afraid that I already know the answer to this it seems as though the exterior impeller on the side of the pump is not spinning...However I can see fluid moving in the reservoir...I can hear noise coming from the pump but I'm not sure how much circulation I'm getting...Can anybody look at their res and let me know if their exterior impeller is spinning?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rystofer;13508295*
> Arghhhhhhhh! Alright I'm afraid that I already know the answer to this it seems as though the exterior impeller on the side of the pump is not spinning...However I can see fluid moving in the reservoir...I can hear noise coming from the pump but I'm not sure how much circulation I'm getting...Can anybody look at their res and let me know if their exterior impeller is spinning?


If the impeller is not turning, the pumps not working and you need to shut down the system.


----------



## Rystofer

I was afraid of that...I need to order some quick disconnects too...Monkey balls...I couldnt understand why my system at idol was 44°c when I think its supposed to be closer to 37°-39°c...Already posted a question at frozencpu...Grrrrrrrrrr


----------



## mbudden

I've been neglecting this thread.
I haven't had access to an actual computer to have multiple windows open to update everyone.
I have like 60 or so pages to go though. But I will get it done tomorrow in my free time.
Boy will I have fun reading


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rystofer;13508295*
> Arghhhhhhhh! Alright I'm afraid that I already know the answer to this it seems as though the exterior impeller on the side of the pump is not spinning...However I can see fluid moving in the reservoir...I can hear noise coming from the pump but I'm not sure how much circulation I'm getting...Can anybody look at their res and let me know if their exterior impeller is spinning?


there is no exterior impreller. There is something that might appear to be one, but is just a bracing for the pump.
here is a picture of my pump before RMA. Notice the three pieces of plastic, they are meant to be stationary, the impeller is behind those pieces.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rystofer;13508976*
> I was afraid of that...I need to order some quick disconnects too...Monkey balls...I couldnt understand why my system at idol was 44°c when I think its supposed to be closer to 37°-39°c...Already posted a question at frozencpu...Grrrrrrrrrr


Did you try shaking the res? Impeller should turn unless something is jammed in it or the pump electric housing kick the bucket. Make sure the Molex connector is good too, as they are a bit loose and can cause the pump to loose power. I've noticed that with mine if when the cable is held completely straight from top to bottom. No power, but touch the molex connector, and it turns back on.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13509002*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been neglecting this thread.
> I haven't had access to an actual computer to have multiple windows open to update everyone.
> I have like 60 or so pages to go though. But I will get it done tomorrow in my free time.
> Boy will I have fun reading


U need a computer? I just pulled an old rig down a few days ago.

I'm afraid to ask what pic your avatar is now.....


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13509150*
> U need a computer? I just pulled an old rig down a few days ago.
> 
> I'm afraid to ask what pic your avatar is now.....


Oh no. I have a computer, my laptop. But having two to three windows open on a laptop to update the spreadsheet is quite cumbersome. I will have access to a computer tomorrow. Will go through ~600 posts, or even more. I assume it will take me around an hour to get it all done. I have some things to add to the OP, not to mention. I read basically every post, so I end up stealing things and adding them to the FAQ etc.

I also need to find out how to make it more automated. So I will start looking into how to do that.


----------



## Annex

Anyone know if XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 pump could do two 6870 waterblocks and a rx120 rad?


----------



## Mottoman216

Hey guys,

So i went out and bought the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit from FrozenCPU.com. this is my first time venturing off into liquid cooling, i watched a few videos and read a couple articles on how to perform leaktest, cleaning the system before use, and priming. i just finished testing for leaks everything is ok except my temps are a little bit higher than i expected... it could be normal operating temps but i feel as if they are too high for a loop being installed so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I replaced the 2 stock fans the kit came with and put in x2 Apache blacks using MX-4 compount on the block.
i have it set up like this res/pump to cpu to rad and finally back to res/pump and here are the results.

Idle - hottest core 35c
underload (linX 1 hour) - i get the max temp of 75c on core0

My questions are ..

1 - do the temps look too high? what should i do / check??
2 - is the loop flow correct?
3 - anyway i can improve my temps!?

PS - im using distilled water, 1 killcoil, few drops of PTnuke, i left the top of the res open and turn the pump on and off while topping it off and letting the air out, after the bubbles cleared up i filled up the res to ALMOST full and i even tilted the case slightly to release any bubbled in the system.

The system - 
core i7 950 @ 4.1ghz 1.35vcore 195x21
asus sabertooth x58 motherboard
mushkin enhanced redline 4x3kit
gtx 580
corsair 750 
coolermaster haf x


----------



## Kahbrohn

What TIM are you using? Also, did you take off "both" plastic sheets off of the Rasa CPU water block?

Try running a Prime95 instead. The LinX stresses the CPU more than Prime95 and causes more heat. Most people you may be comparing to here in the threads run Prime95. This way you will compare apples to apples.


----------



## Havoknova

at 4.2ghz im getting 24c on idle at 70f ambient..

but if it hits 75 ambient im getting 28c on idle...

100% full load im getting 38c ONLY!!!!!!!!!! AT 4.2GHZ...last time im getting 50c+ on full load with enclose case...

benefit on open air too is my mother board temps last time im getting 29-31 idle and full load some times it getting around 35c...but now on open air rack im getting 19c??full load at 25c??

on gpu 30c idle at 950/1050 oc...

on NB AND SB....idle at 24cNB and 21cSB.. my nb OC AT 1.4v at 3000mhz

left it overnight to prime and no BSOD no error at 12 hours..


----------



## pwnography6

K so i been gone for nearly a month but in that time i have got my kit in the mail now i just gotta decide what other parts i need and we will be in business. (Il post pics of my unistalled kit for proof when i find my camera)


----------



## Mottoman216

the only plastic sheets i found on the block was the one it was wrapped with and the thin layer on the block. im using MX-4 thermal compound. I ran prime95 small FFT's for 5 minutes and these were the results i got...


----------



## Rystofer

Thrasherht you rock, because I have dye in my tank I didnt have a clear shot of it...You have to admit it does sorta look like an impeller...Whew made my whole day thanks...Now I can continue to make her look pretty...Anyone know what the voltage requirements are for led Christmas lights? Im hoping 5v will work time to hit the bench...Oh and thanks "ezveedub" for your replies it was great input...


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mottoman216*


the only plastic sheets i found on the block was the one it was wrapped with and the thin layer on the block. im using MX-4 thermal compound. I ran prime95 small FFT's for 5 minutes and these were the results i got...


looks normal bro ur good to go...


----------



## Mottoman216

Cool thanks, just wanted a second opinion =]


----------



## Penumbra

Hi All,

water cooling noob here about to install a RASA 750 RX360 kit, in a push/pull config with 6 AP-15. I realize the kit only comes with a set of screws to mount a push configuration (3 fans) and I wanted to know the screw size and length to use to mount the pull config (the other 3 fans). I searched and couldn't find anything except that the kit uses a 6-32 screw and the length I assume is around 30mm? Where can I buy something like this? I can find the M3-30mm easily enough, but not the 6-32 variety.

Thanks!


----------



## Mottoman216

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penumbra*


Hi All,

water cooling noob here about to install a RASA 750 RX360 kit, in a push/pull config with 6 AP-15. I realize the kit only comes with a set of screws to mount a push configuration (3 fans) and I wanted to know the screw size and length to use to mount the pull config (the other 3 fans). I searched and couldn't find anything except that the kit uses a 6-32 screw and the length I assume is around 30mm? Where can I buy something like this? I can find the M3-30mm easily enough, but not the 6-32 variety.

Thanks!


i just used 2 screws on each fan (like top left and bottom right of the fan) i did this with my setup and they were perfectly secured and did not make any vibrations.


----------



## Penumbra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mottoman216*


i just used 2 screws on each fan (like top left and bottom right of the fan) i did this with my setup and they were perfectly secured and did not make any vibrations.


that's smart! Thanks!!


----------



## Dissentience

Pump went out sometime last night while folding








I hope I didn't hut my CPU too bad


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Pump went out sometime last night while folding








I hope I didn't hut my CPU too bad


cpus are tough, it should be fine. Normally the CPU will shut itself off before it hurts itself.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Pump went out sometime last night while folding








I hope I didn't hut my CPU too bad


sorry to hear that...that sucks...


----------



## The Red Dojo

First time liquid setup for me. Was going to go with a modded H50 but I decided against it and just bought a RS240 kit today as well as a few other things.

Anybody else using the Feser 1 liquid with theirs? I was going to go distilled with the kill coils and red tubing but decided to go with the Feser red liquid instead. Friend of mine swears by the stuff and has been using it for a while so I guess I'll see. Anybody have any horror stories with it? Shouldn't be too late to ask frozencpu to stuff the feser liquid before they ship it...


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


sorry to hear that...that sucks...


Yup. I just ordered another one, hopefully it will be here Wednesday. Oh well, at least it happened after the Chimp Challenge.


----------



## Wicked_Bass

Could the rasa 750 pump do cpu block, 2 mcw80/82 blocks, a rx360 and a rx240 rad?

Thanks


----------



## Moheevi_chess

H50:
Attachment 210703

RS240 kit:
Attachment 210704
Attachment 210705
Attachment 210706

First WC setup and overall I'm happy with it. Need to do some cable management







.


----------



## Rystofer

I'm pretty pleased on how my rig is turning out, makes me wanna put on a white shirt and a pair of tight jeans and watch "Night at the Roxy"...HA!


----------



## Annex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;13510516*
> Anyone know if XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 pump could do two 6870 waterblocks and a rx120 rad?


Just quoting so it doesn't get buried.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;13516969*
> Just quoting so it doesn't get buried.


Im running CPU block, EK-6990 block, RX360, RX120. So it should do a 2nd gpu block, But it's going to be at it's max.


----------



## Nytehawk

Do you guys think anyone will ever make a block for the MSI GTX 580 Lightning?

I'm torn between keeping the 2 Twin Frozr II 580's I have and WCing them with an RX360 kit when I can afford water blocks, or having 2 580 Lightnings on air and just getting an RS 240 or 360 so my CPU can OC to keep up with them.


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;13514971*
> Yup. I just ordered another one, hopefully it will be here Wednesday. Oh well, at least it happened after the Chimp Challenge.


hmm, yea. thankfully for me it is before the cc, lol. You are not gonna try to rma it?


----------



## mbudden

I can't freaking figure out how to make one of those links where you can add the information yourself.
I'm still trying to figure this thing out lol


----------



## tamas

Quick noob question: I'm planning on buying this kit for my a05nb build and was wondering if you guys think that a rx240 push and a rs120 p&p would be enough for a i7-2500k (oc'ed) and a 570 gtx (or maybe a 580 gtx)? I would be using a low resistance ek universal block for the gpu.

Thanks


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;13516969*
> Just quoting so it doesn't get buried.


I am running a rs360 and a single 120 rad with two 580's off the stock pump/res with no problem. To show how sure it will work I am ordering a rx360 and a rx120 rad to run off the pump/res to include my 2 580's. Hope to have it finish either Wednesday or Thursday. pictures to come.


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


hmm, yea. thankfully for me it is before the cc, lol. You are not gonna try to rma it?


It's before the CC?









Anyway my attempts to repair the pump when it started to go out negate any chance to RMA


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


I am running a rs360 and a single 120 rad with two 580's off the stock pump/res with no problem. To show how sure it will work I am ordering a rx360 and a rx120 rad to run off the pump/res to include my 2 580's. Hope to have it finish either Wednesday or Thursday. pictures to come.


Really appreciate the info.. I'm definitely gonna wanna get the 6870's under water later this year.. Doesn't make sense to have everything quiet except for when gaming (which is what the computer is for).


----------



## pwnography6

Heres my much loved (But yet to be installed Rasa RS750 kit)


----------



## Kilamor

Hey guys, im new here. I wanted to ask if you guys think that the pump that comes with the rx360 can handle a cpu, chipset, gtx 570's in sli and a rs240. Thanks


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kilamor*


Hey guys, im new here. I wanted to ask if you guys think that the pump that comes with the rx360 can handle a cpu, chipset, gtx 570's in sli and a rs240. Thanks










Yep. Radiators aren't really restrictive, so those flow easy. When you start adding more GPU/CPU/Chipset waterblocks, that's where you'll find restriction.
I believe you will be fine.


----------



## Kilamor

Would you mind helping me pick out the parts i need? this is the first time i try water cooling and i want to make sure to get everything i need since it takes a while to get to me


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kilamor*


Would you mind helping me pick out the parts i need? this is the first time i try water cooling and i want to make sure to get everything i need since it takes a while to get to me










Not sure what you want me to pick out though.
The RX360 kit comes with everything that you need for your CPU loop.
If you're looking to do SLI WC'ing. Then you will need 2 WB's. You have EK, Koolance, XSPC and some others to choose from that make Full Cover WB's.
You said you want to add a chipset block? Purchase one for your board. I believe only EK makes them. But I'm not sure. 
Another thing you said, a RS240? Just buy the rad.
You might need to buy some extra barbs, and some other tubing. But it shouldn't be too hard


----------



## Zate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kilamor*


Hey guys, im new here. I wanted to ask if you guys think that the pump that comes with the rx360 can handle a cpu, chipset, gtx 570's in sli and a rs240. Thanks










First up i'd suggest to forget the chipset, not going to net you much gains.

Secondly. I wouldn't advise putting a CPU, 2 GPU's and 2 rads behind that pump, you would be getting pretty low flow numbers.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zate*


First up i'd suggest to forget the chipset, not going to net you much gains.

Secondly. I wouldn't advise putting a CPU, 2 GPU's and 2 rads behind that pump, you would be getting pretty low flow numbers.


... no. just no.
Rads aren't restrictive. He shouldn't have a problem.
Not to mention, there was a member here running the stock pump on like 3-5 WB's and 2 rads and it was flowing and performing just fine.

Please don't relay faulty information.

While yes, a chipset waterblock doesn't do much of anything.
People do get them for aesthetic reasons.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tamas*


Quick noob question: I'm planning on buying this kit for my a05nb build and was wondering if you guys think that a rx240 push and a rs120 p&p would be enough for a i7-2500k (oc'ed) and a 570 gtx (or maybe a 580 gtx)? I would be using a low resistance ek universal block for the gpu.

Thanks


I think you'll do just fine with just a RX240, since SB runs cooler than the previous version. But if you could do that, and I think it would do just fine.


----------



## Zate

You have a link to that "just fine" setup? I'm going off numbers from various places online and MLL pump sizer spreadsheet and not finding numbers that would make me happy to spend that money on cooling a decent setup like a CPU and 2 GPU's and pair it with an undersized pump.

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/sho...php?t=18261126
http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=889&page=6

it might well perform great in some situations but if you've spent all the money on 2 GPU's, 2 GPU blocks, CPU and block and 2 rads, spend another $80 on a pump that can run that stuff with room to spare.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zate*


You have a link to that "just fine" setup? I'm going off numbers from various places online and MLL pump sizer spreadsheet and not finding numbers that would make me happy to spend that money on cooling a decent setup like a CPU and 2 GPU's and pair it with an undersized pump.

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/sho...php?t=18261126
http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=889&page=6

it might well perform great in some situations but if you've spent all the money on 2 GPU's, 2 GPU blocks, CPU and block and 2 rads, spend another $80 on a pump that can run that stuff with room to spare.


You're asking me to provide you a link that's somewhere within these 700+ pages? 
He will probably pop in and tell you, this isn't the first time someone has asked about it.
But did you even read the review?









Quote:



The results indicate the XSPC X2O 750 pump *works best with low restriction blocks and radiator* as it shows in the third set of the test (SR-1 + MCW60). These two components are less restrictive than the Apogee XT block.


http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=889&page=7

Radiators give little to no restriction what so ever. Especially XSPC RX series rads.
And as for low restriction blocks? Most if not all EK water blocks are low restriction WB's. So what you're trying to prove here, I'm not sure.

Oh & to put the fork in it.

Quote:



*In terms of performance, the X2O 750 can hold its own against an industry heavyweight, providing very respectable performance for an integrated solution.* Perhaps most attractive, however, is its power efficiency; it consumes only 10w of power to move 2.48GPM (9LPM) of fluid. *This is excellent to see, and it stacks up very well against the powerful and popular Liang D5 (MCP655) pump.* The reservoir does a great job to bleed the air bubble in the loop, and the large coolant level window viewer is a nice feature that allows you to easily monitor the coolant level and flow.


While it's not the top of the line pump, it gets the job done.


----------



## Dissentience

Information, mbudden has it!


----------



## alwang17

I'm thinking of picking up a RX240 and other related stuff as my first watercooling attempt this summer. Any kinks or stuff I should watch out for? I know some of the basics but still have a lot to learn.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


Information, mbudden has it!


Not to mention, bunch of idiots on the other forum.
Sure, while it doesn't have the head pressure like the D5 or DDC pumps. It is good for what it is. 1.3m's (~4.2ft) which is surely enough.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alwang17*


I'm thinking of picking up a RX240 and other related stuff as my first watercooling attempt this summer. Any kinks or stuff I should watch out for? I know some of the basics but still have a lot to learn.


Not really, other than the tubing from the kit isn't the greatest. The kit basically comes with everything. And when it's sitting in front of you, it's not hard to figure out where everything goes. It looks daunting, but it's really not.

EDIT: whoops. need a silver kill coil. lol. 
I was just reading over my FAQ and forgot to mention it.


----------



## Kilamor

Yea I realized that there isnt any need for a chipset block, so what im looking at right now is a cpu and 2 gpu's. Ill take your word mbudden on the pump. Would 2 rs240 rads with one pump be enough for that? Im getting different tubing than what the kit gives since ive seen pictures of it turning brown. Probably getting the primoflex pro since it goes with my black and red color scheme i got going on.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kilamor*


Yea I realized that there isnt any need for a chipset block, so what im looking at right now is a cpu and 2 gpu's. Ill take your word mbudden on the pump. Would 2 rs240 rads with one pump be enough for that? Im getting different tubing than what the kit gives since ive seen pictures of it turning brown. Probably getting the primoflex pro since it goes with my black and red color scheme i got going on.


I did a CPU and a GPU on a RS240 and it was probably the max I would do on a RS240 rad. They really aren't the thickest rad ever. I believe a RS360 or a RX240 would be good enough for what you're trying to do. & yes, primochill tubing is what everyone seems to get. It's 16$ on Amazon for 10ft. It's the cheapest place to get it that I know of.


----------



## Zate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


But did you even read the review?










Yep and what I got from it that it's a great res for simple loops.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


While it's not the top of the line pump, it gets the job done.


Thats what I got from reading too how ever most of the reviews and writeups I read are simple setups and get reasonable temps (they compare the kit to the NH-D14 an awful lot). I dont think the pump has enough head room to cool a OC'd i5/i7 and SLI'd cards *WELL*

Can it do it? No doubt. I don't think it's going to perform stellar though and i think you'll be running closer to temps you could get with air.

not doubting it can do this for a second, I just think if your going to put that much good hardware under water, step up from the simple kit to something with a bit more headroom and flow.

Consider this closed, i dont want to argue with you dude, you know the kit inside out and I am not knocking it as an awesome place to start. if I had room in my system I'd be going that route too.


----------



## Kilamor

Quote:



Thats what I got from reading too how ever most of the reviews and writeups I read are simple setups and get reasonable temps (they compare the kit to the NH-D14 an awful lot). I dont think the pump has enough head room to cool a OC'd i5/i7 and SLI'd cards WELL


Which pump do you think has enough head room, this is my first time trying water cooling and i dont want to mess it up


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kilamor*


Which pump do you think has enough head room, this is my first time trying water cooling and i dont want to mess it up










Being that you want to be on the safe side (which is reasonable)... go with the MCP655 (vario speed) and couple that to the XSPC D5 dual bay res. "If" you still feel uneasy about that pumps capacity... do a dual pump loop or maybe even 2 independent loops. Put the vid cards in one loop independent of the other components on a different loop... But I am certain that one of these pumps will do good for what you intend.

The good thing about a custom loop is that you can always mix, match, add or take away as you see fit. Experience is always better than a review. Reviews are "guides" only in my book since they are basically an opinion expressed by the reviewer. Nothing better than the good old school of hard knocks.

I know of a member here (won't mention his nick name - he will chime in soon enough) who uses the kit pump/res and he had a total of something like 5 blocks/rads and such working perfectly fine. Could he gain a degree or two more by switching pumps and such? Probably but to date... his loop is doing great and for the investment of an upgrade, I bet he decided it wasn't worth it. So, at the end of the day... it's all up to builder what he/she wishes to do and what path they'd like to follow.

I think you should go with at least 1 MCP655 pump...


----------



## Havoknova

My loop runs the rasa kit with full cover mobo block from koolance and 1 full cover 6870 eith 2 rads (1xrs360 and 1xek240)

The flow rate is still at its best..cooling temps are great and no decrease on performace..

So thats 3 blocks and 2 rads and pump still perform great..

The pump it self can not be called weak..it can handle 4 block for sure 5 block is where its goin to be where u goin to say it will need a pump..but for 1 guy here he runs 5 blocks with no problem at all..


----------



## Boyboyd

I wish i'd put a flow meter somewhere in my loop now. All i have to go on is the bay res, and it's hard to see when the inlet and outlet tubes are fully submerged.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13526077*
> I wish i'd put a flow meter somewhere in my loop now. All i have to go on is the bay res, and it's hard to see when the inlet and outlet tubes are fully submerged.


There are some in-line meters but personally, for the price, I keep an eye on my res. Also, I have my MCP655 pump plugged into the CPU fan header. I look at the CPU fan speed and when I see 4200 RPM, I know the pump is up and functioning fine. Unfortunately you can't do that with the Rasa pump. What I did with the res was siphon out a bit of water out of the res... not much... just enough to easily see movement when I take a look at it.


----------



## The Red Dojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Red Dojo;13514822*
> First time liquid setup for me. Was going to go with a modded H50 but I decided against it and just bought a RS240 kit today as well as a few other things.
> 
> Anybody else using the Feser 1 liquid with theirs? I was going to go distilled with the kill coils and red tubing but decided to go with the Feser red liquid instead. Friend of mine swears by the stuff and has been using it for a while so I guess I'll see. Anybody have any horror stories with it? Shouldn't be too late to ask frozencpu to stuff the feser liquid before they ship it...


It's a little late to stop the shipping of the Feser liquid, but anybody?


----------



## Lickrob

is a 450 LU pump enough to cool a I7 and a GTX 275?

also just oreder XSPC


----------



## tamas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13524054*
> I think you'll do just fine with just a RX240, since SB runs cooler than the previous version. But if you could do that, and I think it would do just fine.


I'm curious at what you mean by "just fine." What temps would I be approximately seeing?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Red Dojo;13527056*
> It's a little late to stop the shipping of the Feser liquid, but anybody?


I don't think many people run the Feser coolant in here. Some people reported issues with the dye causing build up in their blocks, so you may want to keep any eye on that. I've only ran Koolance coolant way back in the days, but I've never ran Feser, so I can't say much on the subject other than that.


----------



## Boyboyd

So i found some old UV CCFLs, turns out my tubing is UV reactive


----------



## The Red Dojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13528183*
> I don't think many people run the Feser coolant in here. Some people reported issues with the dye causing build up in their blocks, so you may want to keep any eye on that. I've only ran Koolance coolant way back in the days, but I've never ran Feser, so I can't say much on the subject other than that.


Cheers for the reply, actually just got off the phone with Frozencpu and I'll probably not be using them ever again in the future.

When I asked the guy if he would check my specific order so I could remove something before shipping all he said was "What does it say on your account and what shipping option?" I told him it said "Packing" and in my account it said specifically they were still modding it (having sleeving done on some other things I bought), the guy shut me down and said "Fedex shipped this morning at 8 and we don't take returns on any liquids or watercooling equipment". Fair enough.

But then he actually dropped an F-bomb while on the phone with me when I told him what I wanted dropped off my order. He said "F***, Feser is our best selling coolant and you want to _not_ buy it?".

Blah, I'll try the Feser, check it after 3 and 6 months, then probably go to distilled. Don't think I'm going to give Frozencpu anymore of my business though. I thought it was kinda funny after I hung up but seriously?


----------



## Mottoman216

hey im a newb to water cooling and i just installed my first loop ever like 4 days ago (rasa 750 RS240) and i notice a very very slight hazing going on in the tubes. they used to be perfectly clear but now have a slight haze to them. but when i look into the res it looks completely clear. when i installed the loop from day 1 i flushed everything with distilled water, put a killcoil in the res and put about 10 drops of PT Nuke. is this a sign of algae ? is it from the tubes themselves? (im using the original 7/16ths tubes that comes with the rasa kit)

Also,
after installing the loop i learned about ppl adding a T into the line to make draining easier... i dont have that T and getting these tubes off the barb seems to be a pain. whats the best way to get the tubes off to do a flush without making a mess? like i said this is my first time going with liquid cooling so bare with me, thanks!


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mottoman216;13528500*
> hey im a newb to water cooling and i just installed my first loop ever like 4 days ago (rasa 750 RS240) and i notice a very very slight hazing going on in the tubes. they used to be perfectly clear but now have a slight haze to them. but when i look into the res it looks completely clear. when i installed the loop from day 1 i flushed everything with distilled water, put a killcoil in the res and put about 10 drops of PT Nuke. is this a sign of algae ? is it from the tubes themselves? (im using the original 7/16ths tubes that comes with the rasa kit)


completely normal. the tubing starts turning colors within hours.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/882408-official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-725.html#post13482121


----------



## The Red Dojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mottoman216;13528500*
> hey im a newb to water cooling and i just installed my first loop ever like 4 days ago (rasa 750 RS240) and i notice a very very slight hazing going on in the tubes. they used to be perfectly clear but now have a slight haze to them. but when i look into the res it looks completely clear. when i installed the loop from day 1 i flushed everything with distilled water, put a killcoil in the res and put about 10 drops of PT Nuke. is this a sign of algae ? is it from the tubes themselves? (im using the original 7/16ths tubes that comes with the rasa kit)


Go with the Primochill tubes from Amazon.


----------



## tamas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mottoman216;13528500*
> hey im a newb to water cooling and i just installed my first loop ever like 4 days ago (rasa 750 RS240) and i notice a very very slight hazing going on in the tubes. they used to be perfectly clear but now have a slight haze to them. but when i look into the res it looks completely clear. when i installed the loop from day 1 i flushed everything with distilled water, put a killcoil in the res and put about 10 drops of PT Nuke. is this a sign of algae ? is it from the tubes themselves? (im using the original 7/16ths tubes that comes with the rasa kit)


The tubes are coated with plasticizers that make the tubes more malleable and these plasticizers are what are causing the haziness of the tubes (they are crystallizing out onto the inside of the tubes, doesn't affect the res). This is a natural process.

Solutions? Buy plasticizer-free tubing from Tygon or using colored tubing (where this will be less noticeable) i.e. the primochill tubing mentioned in the above post
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mottoman216;13528500*
> Also,
> after installing the loop i learned about ppl adding a T into the line to make draining easier... i dont have that T and getting these tubes off the barb seems to be a pain. whats the best way to get the tubes off to do a flush without making a mess? like i said this is my first time going with liquid cooling so bare with me, thanks!


Adding a t-line is a good solution or you could also add quick disconnects to the reservoir or somewhere useful: http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c405/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Quick_Disconnects.html


----------



## Mottoman216

wow, fast response!
Thanks guys, for a second i thought i did something wrong, glad to hear its normal while using the tubes that came with the kit. ill probably get the colored tubes in time when i decide to flush or something.

1 more question! is there an easier way to get the tubes off the barbs lol? they seem to be stuck on there and i feel like there must be a trick or something to getting them off... heatgun maybe?


----------



## Havoknova




----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13529457*


Wow, I didn't know XSPC made Koolance parts too!









What's up with the CPU block?


----------



## mbudden

I figured out how to get the spreadsheet form working so people can add themselves.
BUT, it seem to want to add the new people to the TOP of the list.
Hmm.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13530119*
> Wow, I didn't know XSPC made Koolance parts too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's up with the CPU block?


well im tired of the rasa block (looks) so i go with the bling..and a little bit of performace =) thats all..

ohh yea thats on the new kit rasa 1050 kit with 900rad =P


----------



## mbudden

That would be ugly on a Intel mount.
But AMD would look nice.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13530302*
> That would be ugly on a Intel mount.
> But AMD would look nice.


intel mount is the X

amd is the rectangular shape =)

this will be so bling hehehe


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


well im tired of the rasa block (looks) so i go with the bling..and a little bit of performace =) thats all..

ohh yea thats on the new kit rasa 1050 kit with 900rad =P


LOL!

FYI, I just ordered an EK HF Supreme Nickel Plexi CPU block today. Should be here tomorrow with another XSPC RX360 rad. I decided to return my I7 860 back to an all RASA RX360 kit and just build another water cooling system for my I7 960/M8 case build. I was going to got with the gold plated or blue plexi water block, but figured thats a but too much.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13529457*


I love Koolance stuff.


----------



## mrsmiles

I'm going to be getting the HAF 932 or the NZXT Phantom full tower case to replace this antec, summer is pretty much here and i plan to move to "real" water cooling, i plan to add the gpu into the loop, my guess is that the 360 rad kit is the one to purchase but was wondering if that will be enough to cool both the cpu and gpu?

besides buying the kit what else would i need to purchase for this considering i am also adding a gpu into the loop? what full cover block should i be looking at for the gpu?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrsmiles;13536128*
> I'm going to be getting the HAF 932 or the NZXT Phantom full tower case to replace this antec, summer is pretty much here and i plan to move to "real" water cooling, i plan to add the gpu into the loop, my guess is that the 360 rad kit is the one to purchase but was wondering if that will be enough to cool both the cpu and gpu?
> 
> besides buying the kit what else would i need to purchase for this considering i am also adding a gpu into the loop? what full cover block should i be looking at for the gpu?


A RX360 will handle a CPU and GPU. If you have a 6950, you need the waterblock for a 6970, as they are the same. If your card is the reference design with bios switch then its a version 1. If its the newer ones without backplate and bios switch, you have version 2.


----------



## mrsmiles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13536251*
> A RX360 will handle a CPU and GPU. If you have a 6950, you need the waterblock for a 6970, as they are the same. If your card is the reference design with bios switch then its a version 1. If its the newer ones without backplate and bios switch, you have version 2.


i have this one i believe this is version 2.

which block would you recommend? was thinking about this Koolance which barbs/compression fittings should i get?

i also assume that i will need some extra tubing?


----------



## Boyboyd

I'd reccomend getting your own tubing anyway. The stuff they include goes bad in about 6 weeks.


----------



## mrsmiles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13536332*
> I'd reccomend getting your own tubing anyway. The stuff they include goes bad in about 6 weeks.


in this case what tubing size is recommended?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrsmiles;13536316*
> i have this one i believe this is version 2.
> 
> which block would you recommend? was thinking about this Koolance which barbs/compression fittings should i get?
> 
> i also assume that i will need some extra tubing?


You're going to have to take the cooler off and check it against the reference pictures. I think your card is non-reference, based off the blue PCB, and most likely, you will not be able to find a full waterblock for it if thats the case. EK has a card that looks like yours on their configurator and they don't make the waterblock for it.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrsmiles;13536386*
> in this case what tubing size is recommended?


7/16" Inner Diameter.


----------



## mrsmiles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13536414*
> You're going to have to take the cooler off and check it against the reference pictures. I think your card is non-reference, based off the blue PCB, and most likely, you will not be able to find a full waterblock for it if thats the case. EK has a card that looks like yours on their configurator and they don't make the waterblock for it.


yeah i believe its a non-reference design, i completely overlooked that fact..... kind of dumb of me...

looks like there are 2 blocks listed in frozencpu for non-reference cards although i dont have anyway of knowing if they will fit on my sapphire card....

+rep to both


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrsmiles;13536496*
> yeah i believe its a non-reference design, i completely overlooked that fact..... kind of dumb of me...
> 
> looks like there are 2 blocks listed in frozencpu for non-reference cards although i dont have anyway of knowing if they will fit on my sapphire card....
> 
> +rep to both


Actually, those are version 2 blocks, which I believe are the revised reference cards. Yours I think is totally different all together.


----------



## ajmidd12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13536643*
> Actually, those are version 2 blocks, which I believe are the revised reference cards. Yours I think is totally different all together.


This, although they are still non-ref full coverage blocks, but they don't fit on this model, which is the new non ref card.










NOT this model (Ref version 1)










I know cause I have one of each









Going to be swapping the version 2 with a ref version 1 sometime this week hopefully, not that the Bios switch does anything, but I like the uniformity of the same cards in my computer


----------



## mrsmiles

well thats crappy, im out of luck in water cooling my gpu then? wanted to go water since the card runs hotter then i would like, especially when i have the other monitor on.... guess i stick to cpu loop only for now....

dont want the hassle of selling this card to getting a ref. card.


----------



## wetfit9

My haf x don't have enough room in top for my rx360 rad. Yes, I know it will fit, but it would be tight and up against the mobo. Looking around in my area now to see if i can fine someone to cut the 120mm mounting bracket up top and re weld them adding about an fourth of an inch so the bracket sits higher. I lose the ability to do push/pull but the rx360 rad works great in push only and i won't have my fans push up against my mobo and I would be able to add a rx120 to the rear fan area. Now the problem is fining someone to do such a small job.


----------



## tamas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13524054*
> I think you'll do just fine with just a RX240, since SB runs cooler than the previous version. But if you could do that, and I think it would do just fine.


I didn't want to let this get buried in this massive thread







:I'm curious at what you mean by "just fine." What temps would I be approximately seeing with a i7-2500k + 570/6970 on a RX240?


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13538274*
> My haf x don't have enough room in top for my rx360 rad. Yes, I know it will fit, but it would be tight and up against the mobo. Looking around in my area now to see if i can fine someone to cut the 120mm mounting bracket up top and re weld them adding about an fourth of an inch so the bracket sits higher. I lose the ability to do push/pull but the rx360 rad works great in push only and i won't have my fans push up against my mobo and I would be able to add a rx120 to the rear fan area. Now the problem is fining someone to do such a small job.


Or would it be a big different in temp with these in pull.
Scythe Gentle Typhoon - D1225C12B5AP-15 - 1850rpm
Then I would not have to do any mods


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamas;13538882*
> I didn't want to let this get buried in this massive thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :I'm curious at what you mean by "just fine." What temps would I be approximately seeing with a i7-2500k + 570/6970 on a RX240?


I've seen 2500K's under water do ~50C @ high clocks.
You would probably see less if not the same with the GPU.


----------



## tamas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13539225*
> You would probably see less if not the same with the GPU.


Do you mean more? It seems unlikely that the gpu would decrease the temp of the loop.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamas;13538882*
> I didn't want to let this get buried in this massive thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :I'm curious at what you mean by "just fine." What temps would I be approximately seeing with a i7-2500k + 570/6970 on a RX240?


With cpu and gpu on a single rx240 will be HOT / high temps...if u put the cpu first on ur loop ull see nice low temps but after gpu will be high temps coz of the cpu generated heat...if u do it other way around gpu will be low on temp but cpu will be high temp coz of gpu generated heat...

This is base on my experience ON LOAD not idle state..
So for best result put rad in between every major blocks


----------



## SmasherBasher

I think the Community Folding Project may join this club. We are looking into the RX360 kits. May buy 3 of them.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmidd12;13537059*
> This, although they are still non-ref full coverage blocks, but they don't fit on this model, which is the new non ref card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOT this model (Ref version 1)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know cause I have one of each
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to be swapping the version 2 with a ref version 1 sometime this week hopefully, not that the Bios switch does anything, but I like the uniformity of the same cards in my computer


The black 6970 with silver round switch, stripe, and blue PCB is a SAPPHIRE 100311-2SR (NON reference).

The other one with the girl on it should be SAPPHIRE 100311SR (Reference card-bios switch & back plate)

*I contacted Sapphire and ran the part numbers with them and thats what they told me. As of right now, they are the only ones who could tell me how to depict which is which. I ordered a HIS 6970 off NE and got the non-reference card, even though the pictures show it to be the reference card. HIS could not tell me how to know or dipict via part number or serial number when the non-reference cards were introduced*


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;13539811*
> I think the Community Folding Project may join this club. We are looking into the RX360 kits. May buy 3 of them.


Sounds great. One of the most cost effective WC kits out right now.


----------



## thrasherht

just redid my loop today. School projected required some bling.
I got some primochill LRT 7/16in and some UV bright green dye.

I am going to most likely change the water after the project to get rid of the dye. hopefully my tubes will get stained green.


----------



## badatgames18

just checked performance pc... it looks like you can buy the components of the rx360 version for less than the price of the bundle...

Of course it's just the barbs, pump/res 750, and the rx 360 rad... without the tubes, clamps, and kill coil

just a quick fyi for people that want to buy it a bit cheaper


----------



## mbudden

How much cheaper? Because after the cost of tubes, kill coil etc. It will probably be around the same price.


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13541174*
> How much cheaper? Because after the cost of tubes, kill coil etc. It will probably be around the same price.



View attachment 211054


i think it's a good price if you have extra tubing and a kill coil lying around

EDIT: NVM it's more expensive if you add the cpu block


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badatgames18;13541120*
> just checked performance pc... it looks like you can buy the components of the rx360 version for less than the price of the bundle...
> 
> Of course it's just the barbs, pump/res 750, and the rx 360 rad... without the tubes, clamps, and kill coil
> 
> just a quick fyi for people that want to buy it a bit cheaper


I just went and put the RX360 kit with 8 feet of tubing is $6 cheaper the putting it all together your self


----------



## mbudden

Now add the barbs & kill coil.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;13541361*
> Now add the barbs & kill coil.


Im saying the RX360 kit with 8 feet of tubing to replace the stock tubing is $6 cheaper then putting it all together


----------



## Boyboyd

What would be a good upgrade from the rasa CPU block?


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


What would be a good upgrade from the rasa CPU block?


About the only thing that performs better is the EK Supreme HF but only by 1-2C


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


What would be a good upgrade from the rasa CPU block?


Well u can go for the ek hf or the koolance cpu 370..like what i got


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


What would be a good upgrade from the rasa CPU block?


The rasa block is so good it is pretty pointless to upgrade to anything. Because right now most everything is more of a side grade.


----------



## ny_nick

Hello guys,
I generally stay away from threads that are hundreds of pages long as it's like a novel reading it but I have a question. Im looking into a XSPC rasa kit RS240 or RS360 and I wanted to possibly upgrade in the future to cooling other components rather than just cpu.
My question is, Does anyone out there have any pics/ideas/suggestions on how I could mount a RS360 RAD on a Antec 1200 Case without it looking crazy or without huge mods to the case. I'd prefer the 360 but I'm very unsure where I would put it all with my 1200 case.
Thanks,
Nick


----------



## mbudden

To be honest, if you try upgrading the RASA block. Most you will see is a 1-2C difference. Is it really worth it? For some, yes. For others, not really.

If you have low ambient temps all the time, then it should be no problem.
If you have higher ambient temps, then it would probably be good to go for one of the others.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dissentience*


About the only thing that performs better is the EK Supreme HF but only by 1-2C


Thanks. If it's only by that much it's probably not worth the upgrade. I might add another 240 rad or replace this one with a 480 instead then.

I do have pretty low ambient temps. My rad is next to an always open window.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


To be honest, if you try upgrading the RASA block. Most you will see is a 1-2C difference. Is it really worth it? For some, yes. For others, not really.

If you have low ambient temps all the time, then it should be no problem.
If you have higher ambient temps, then it would probably be good to go for one of the others.


u are correct....

from florida here and its hot out here so every upgrade i can use to compinsate with the ambient ill do it.... =)


----------



## mbudden

Of course, and make sure you use some quality TIM and get a good mount. That can net you quite a difference between using bad TIM and getting a bad mount.


----------



## tamas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


With cpu and gpu on a single rx240 will be HOT / high temps...if u put the cpu first on ur loop ull see nice low temps but after gpu will be high temps coz of the cpu generated heat...if u do it other way around gpu will be low on temp but cpu will be high temp coz of gpu generated heat...

This is base on my experience ON LOAD not idle state..
So for best result put rad in between every major blocks










So if I would add a rs120 (rx120 maybe?) p&p (along with the original rx240) in between the two blocks I should see fairly good temperatures correct?

Appreciate the help, the inexpensiveness of this kit is very promising


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tamas*


So if I would add a rs120 (rx120 maybe?) p&p (along with the original rx240) in between the two blocks I should see fairly good temperatures correct?

Appreciate the help, the inexpensiveness of this kit is very promising


That should work well. Im running a RX360 + RX120 to cool my i7 875K @4.329GHz, And my 6990 @1000/1375








Im running it rez/pump - RX360 - i7 - RX120 - 6990 - rez/pump


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tamas*


So if I would add a rs120 (rx120 maybe?) p&p (along with the original rx240) in between the two blocks I should see fairly good temperatures correct?

Appreciate the help, the inexpensiveness of this kit is very promising


yes ull see a temp difference for sure =)


----------



## mbudden

Not to mention, if you can. Push/Pull fans on the rad.
If not, then just configure them as Push.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ny_nick*


Hello guys,
I generally stay away from threads that are hundreds of pages long as it's like a novel reading it but I have a question. Im looking into a XSPC rasa kit RS240 or RS360 and I wanted to possibly upgrade in the future to cooling other components rather than just cpu.
My question is, Does anyone out there have any pics/ideas/suggestions on how I could mount a RS360 RAD on a Antec 1200 Case without it looking crazy or without huge mods to the case. I'd prefer the 360 but I'm very unsure where I would put it all with my 1200 case.
Thanks,
Nick


The 1200 can have a 360 mounted in the front of the case, blocks drive bays, but that is a really good place to put a rad. You would have to talk to some of the other guys that have actually done this. I know it takes very little modding.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tamas*


So if I would add a rs120 (rx120 maybe?) p&p (along with the original rx240) in between the two blocks I should see fairly good temperatures correct?

Appreciate the help, the inexpensiveness of this kit is very promising


Just remember it doesn't matter where you put the the components, because the water is moving so much that it has very little to no difference in temp when going into and coming out of a block. So putting a rad before or after a block doesn't matter. Just put it where it works best for your loop.


----------



## wetfit9

Is there a big different with a RX360 in push/pull compared to just push


----------



## Enialius

I have had the RX360 kit since it came out and I am finally upgrading. Thank you XSPC for making such a good kit... even if the stock tube was crap.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Is there a big different with a RX360 in push/pull compared to just push


I would believe maybe a 1-3C drop.
I know when I added shrouds onto my RS240 w/ just two fans in push. I seen a 2C drop.


----------



## Lickrob

is a 450 LPH pump enough to cool a I7 and a GTX 275?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Is there a big different with a RX360 in push/pull compared to just push


I saw about a 2*C drop on my RS360.


----------



## wetfit9

Thanks guys for the information. I am switching from a rs360 rad and a single 120 rad to a RX360 and a RX120(both will be in push only), so I should see a better temps then I have now as I am going with larger RAD's. Again thanks guys, it will be a long day as I will be modding my case so I can fit the RX360 up top with the RX120 on the rear fan area. Open for comments and suggestions.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Thanks guys for the information. I am switching from a rs360 rad and a single 120 rad to a RX360 and a RX120(both will be in push only), so I should see a better temps then I have now as I am going with larger RAD's. Again thanks guys, it will be a long day as I will be modding my case so I can fit the RX360 up top with the RX120 on the rear fan area. Open for comments and suggestions.


RX360 + RX120 fit in the HAF 932 with just push fans


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Thanks guys for the information. I am switching from a rs360 rad and a single 120 rad to a RX360 and a RX120(both will be in push only), so I should see a better temps then I have now as I am going with larger RAD's. Again thanks guys, it will be a long day as I will be modding my case so I can fit the RX360 up top with the RX120 on the rear fan area. Open for comments and suggestions.


what are you doing with those rads?


----------



## wetfit9

HiLuckyB said:


> RX360 + RX120 fit in the HAF 932 with just push fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes but the haf x have less room up top. That is why I have to modded. How are your temps like that. I will be using the same fans.
> 
> Forgot to add my mother board will not fit in the 932 either so I cannot move into one.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


what are you doing with those rads?


I have no plans as of now. Send pm as I don't have enough reps to sell in the forum.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Thanks guys for the information. I am switching from a rs360 rad and a single 120 rad to a RX360 and a RX120(both will be in push only), so I should see a better temps then I have now as I am going with larger RAD's. Again thanks guys, it will be a long day as I will be modding my case so I can fit the RX360 up top with the RX120 on the rear fan area. Open for comments and suggestions.


I think you need a get a Case Labs case and drop the HAF-X.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I think you need a get a Case Labs case and drop the HAF-X.


Case labs case. Let me go take a look at them

That is a lot of case. I will report back if I see something I like.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Yes but the haf x have less room up top. That is why I have to modded. How are your temps like that. I will be using the same fans.


It's holding my 6990 @1000/1375 1.205v in the low 50's, And my i7 875K @4.329GHz 1.325v in the high 40's Playing games.
My cpu hit max of 62c on the hottest core running AvP Benchmark, 3DMark 11 - Performance, and Extreme run's, 3DMark Vantage - Performance, and High run with 1 min cool down's in between run








I would like to add another RX120 after the 6990, But I think ill most likely upgrade my pump first


----------



## Ithanul

My first time with water cooled.








Second build I have ever done.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Case labs case. Let me go take a look at them

That is a lot of case. I will report back if I see something I like.


I sent you a PM. The G1 Assassin is a ATX mobo, so a M8 should be fine. I'm working on mounting my GA-X58A-UD7 now in my M8 case. I'll be running 2 RX360 rads on the top with extended top cover in push fan configuration. Lots of space to work, at least for me that is.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I sent you a PM. The G1 Assassin is a ATX mobo, so a M8 should be fine. I'm working on mounting my GA-X58A-UD7 now in my M8 case. I'll be running 2 RX360 rads on the top with extended top cover in push fan configuration. Lots of space to work, at least for me that is.


The G1 is a XL Atx board


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13545898*
> The G1 is a XL Atx board


Then use the M10 case. Same size I believe, just has the bigger mobo tray for XL-ATX boards.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

So playing Witcher 2, my 470 is like a leaf blower. I'd like to shut it up with a block but I don't want to cram anymore stuff into my case and external rads are out of the question. I'm not even sure what I'm asking, sort of a dilemma. I'd like to upgrade to a faster card but at the same time, just getting another 470 would get me more performance for less money. Then, on the other hand, I was thinking about waiting for the next gen and weighing my options depending on how much faster they were.

decisions, decisions..


----------



## Boyboyd

I switched TIMs from "Akasa thermal based compound" to MX-4. It knocked at least 10 degrees off my load temps, and it hasn't cured yet.

Went from 70 to 58-60 with the overclock in my sig.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13548638*
> I switched TIMs from "Akasa thermal based compound" to MX-4. It knocked at least 10 degrees off my load temps, and it hasn't cured yet.
> 
> Went from 70 to 58-60 with the overclock in my sig.


That sounds about correct for a WC CPU. Not sure why you had 70C in the first place. I'm trying Prolimatech PK-1 next.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13548692*
> That sounds about correct for a WC CPU. Not sure why you had 70C in the first place. I'm trying Prolimatech PK-1 next.


That's supposed to be very good. I figured 70 degrees was right with 1.44v. I was wrong, lol.

I now no-longer feel the need to upgrade my block.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13548717*
> That's supposed to be very good. I figured 70 degrees was right with 1.44v. I was wrong, lol.
> 
> I now no-longer feel the need to upgrade my block.


Yeap sometimes all u need is new application of TIM to actually get better temps...


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13548638*
> I switched TIMs from "Akasa thermal based compound" to MX-4. It knocked at least 10 degrees off my load temps, and it hasn't cured yet.
> 
> Went from 70 to 58-60 with the overclock in my sig.


What method did you use? Line? X? Dot?


----------



## Boyboyd

I used a diagonal line from the top left to the bottom right. This was my first attempt, i used a bit too much. But the coverage looks pretty even.


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


So playing Witcher 2, my 470 is like a leaf blower. I'd like to shut it up with a block but I don't want to cram anymore stuff into my case and external rads are out of the question. I'm not even sure what I'm asking, sort of a dilemma. I'd like to upgrade to a faster card but at the same time, just getting another 470 would get me more performance for less money. Then, on the other hand, I was thinking about waiting for the next gen and weighing my options depending on how much faster they were.

decisions, decisions..


had the same problem, hated how my 470's sounded, so I just cooled them both with a rasa kit


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


So playing Witcher 2, my 470 is like a leaf blower. I'd like to shut it up with a block but I don't want to cram anymore stuff into my case and external rads are out of the question. I'm not even sure what I'm asking, sort of a dilemma. I'd like to upgrade to a faster card but at the same time, just getting another 470 would get me more performance for less money. Then, on the other hand, I was thinking about waiting for the next gen and weighing my options depending on how much faster they were.

decisions, decisions..



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


had the same problem, hated how my 470's sounded, so I just cooled them both with a rasa kit











My 6990 wins for being loud








Especially when I was trying to get to 1GHz on air, But that never happened








That's why it's under water now, And can run 1GHz 24/7 without even trying








Now I just need to see what the card can really do


----------



## rainfade

LOVE IT, pump is quiet temps already better at 4.6 than 4.4 on air with the A70.

Anyone with a dragonrider case contemplating this be warned the toolless rails won't work on the left (as viewed from front) side of the dual bay reservior plan on some longer than normal fine drive screws.

Now to let the TIM cure and start cranking up the speed on this puppy.

oh and please add me


----------



## InF3Rnus

So I did some cable management and rearranged some stuff, grade my scout







.


----------



## Dissentience

Got my replacement pump








Getting better temps with Shin-Etsu TIM, max 65C while folding


----------



## UsedPaperclip

Well heres my setup, still needs a bit of work but it works









I will add temps later once I get my thermal paste and GTs in the mail.


----------



## Boyboyd

What waterblock is that paperclip?

I've thought about adding an RX120 to my loop when i get my 700D tomorrow. Going to internally mount the x240 in the roof, and i have room for one more. It's only Â£30 delivered with 2 barbs.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


What waterblock is that paperclip?

I've thought about adding an RX120 to my loop when i get my 700D tomorrow. Going to internally mount the x240 in the roof, and i have room for one more. It's only Â£30 delivered with 2 barbs.


Thats the RASA block with AMD bracket mount.


----------



## Boyboyd

It's different to my rasa block :S



Edit: oh wait. Do you have to change the front part of the mount if you have an AMD? I thought it was just a different backplate.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Edit: oh wait. Do you have to change the front part of the mount if you have an AMD? I thought it was just a different backplate.


The Intel and AMD "top plates" are different. Intels tend to follow the "X" or square shape (depending on processor) where the AMD top plate is rectangular (and honestly not half as sexy as Intel's top plate).


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


It's different to my rasa block :S



Edit: oh wait. Do you have to change the front part of the mount if you have an AMD? I thought it was just a different backplate.


Yes, you remove the "X" bracket from the block and install the other one in the box for AMD cpus.


----------



## Boyboyd

oh wow, thanks. Now i know, and


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


oh wow, thanks. Now i know, and











Understanding is the other half... you got this battle won!


----------



## Bdonedge

So has anyone had any troubles with these loops? I'd like to start looking into water cooling and the RX240 version seems right up my ally. I'd like to start with CPU block only and this is cheap enough in my price range to get started but you get what you pay for, is this kit worth it, do I need to take any special precautions? Thanks!

Edit: Also, is a kill coil necessary? What is the point of one? And I've read throughout this thread that the tubing isn't great, seeing as its fairly cheap should I go ahead and buy some?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*


So has anyone had any troubles with these loops? I'd like to start looking into water cooling and the RX240 version seems right up my ally. I'd like to start with CPU block only and this is cheap enough in my price range to get started but you get what you pay for, is this kit worth it, do I need to take any special precautions? Thanks!

Edit: Also, is a kill coil necessary? What is the point of one? And I've read throughout this thread that the tubing isn't great, seeing as its fairly cheap should I go ahead and buy some?


Enter your system information (> "USER CP" > "EDIT SYSTEM") and you will get much better information. For example, some CPU's heat up much more than others. Normally, the RX240 for a CPU only loop but could/would require additional upgrades in the future should you want to add a GPU for example. They you'd need to move up into the 360 rad's. I think the price difference is like $20 between theX240 and the RS360. Another $20-30 moving up into the RX360. Good to plan it out as of now.

Kill coil or PT Nuke... prevents algae/bacteria growth within your distilled water loop. The stock tubing will get "ugly" pretty fast. That is an inexpensive upgrade worth doing from the get-go. Primochill tubing tends to be the tubing of choice. To prevent the ugly tubing, either good quality tubing or simply plasticizer-free tubing. It's the plasticizer in the tubing that makes it cloud up.


----------



## Boyboyd

I personally think my Rx kit is worth every penny, once I put some decent thermal paste on it anyway.

All of the parts included in the kit are pretty good. The block isn't the best on the market, and the pump is 'only' better-than-average but the RX rads are some of the best you can buy at the moment.

A killcoil is just to stop algae clogging up the tubes and blocks, it's because pure silver is toxic to organics. You can also use some biocide or copper sulphate for a similar effect (i think).

Just one tip, get some of your own tubing. The stuff they include goes brown/green due to the platicizer they use in production. You'll need 7/16" inner diameter.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13576041*
> I personally think my Rx kit is worth every penny, once I put some decent thermal paste on it anyway.
> 
> All of the parts included in the kit are pretty good. The block isn't the best on the market, and the pump is 'only' better-than-average but the RX rads are some of the best you can buy at the moment.
> 
> A killcoil is just to stop algae clogging up the tubes and blocks, it's because pure silver is toxic to organics. You can also use some biocide or copper sulphate for a similar effect (i think).
> 
> Just one tip, get some of your own tubing. The stuff they include goes brown/green due to the platicizer they use in production. You'll need 7/16" inner diameter.


The block is second best in the market from the reviews I read... and that was only by 1-2*C difference MAX! If you factor in the lower price, then you are looking at a block that is tied for first.

Biocide (PT-Nuke), yes. Copper Sulphate I have read that you need to be very careful with the amount used. Some chemistry student was explaining that to me the other day... maybe it was even my daughter who is a chem major.

Agree on the tubing. Good call on using the 7/16". That ID tubing on a 1/2" barb and you get a tight fit.


----------



## wetfit9

Well, I just finish with a few mods to get the RX360 Rad to fit in the top of my case alone with a RX120 on the rear. On the 932, i could have done this with out the mod, but my mother board cannot fit inside a 932.

http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k562/wetfit9/updated%20case/

I also had all kinds of issues, no leaks on the leak test, then 4 when I put it in the case. On the EK SLI bridge, someone smart(me) didn't read the direction all the way through and connect the input on the same side of the out put. Water was just running straight through without going through the cards. Thanks for auto shut down on the cards, temps was high while i was trying to fine the issue. So with each leak, drain, fix, test, fix drain test. Man I was hot, well except when the water hit me a couple of time.







. All is well and up and running. My high temp with a hour of prime95 was 46 on any core @4.0. Time to overclock my cards and my cpu higher.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13577370*
> Well, I just finish with a few mods to get the RX360 Rad to fit in the top of my case alone with a RX120 on the rear. On the 932, i could have done this with out the mod, but my mother board cannot fit inside a 932.
> 
> http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k562/wetfit9/updated%20case/
> 
> I also had all kinds of issues, no leaks on the leak test, then 4 when I put it in the case. On the EK SLI bridge, someone smart(me) didn't read the direction all the way through and connect the input on the same side of the out put. Water was just running straight through without going through the cards. Thanks for auto shut down on the cards, temps was high while i was trying to fine the issue. So with each leak, drain, fix, test, fix drain test. Man I was hot, well except when the water hit me a couple of time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . All is well and up and running. My high temp with a hour of prime95 was 46 on any core @4.0. Time to overclock my cards and my cpu higher.


The EK bridge instructions only show a flow diagram. Its actually from a color computer diagram, but its in black and white on the instructions, so go figure.







Anyway, yes, you have to have the input and output on opposite vertical ports. In on the left, out on the right or vice versa, but never on the same inline port on the bridge. Glad it worked it out for you in the end. I assume you got a parallel bridge, not serial, correct?


----------



## wetfit9

That is correct. Now I think I need a bigger case. I have been looking at the M10. Trying to get a feel for it before I spend that kind of money.


----------



## ezveedub

I'm putting my M8 together as I type this. It's has so much room and makes my watercooled build so much easier. I'm running two RX360s on the top. I believe you can do the same with the M10. Jim said the XL-ATX mobo tray doesn't allow a rad on the mono side, but that's if you mount the rad inside. Since I have the rad on top, only the fans sit on the inside of the roof. Only monor mod needed is to notch the roof for the XSPC rad, as they use a hex bung that needs to be cleared so it drops right on top. Any other rad fits fine. You also can mount a third rad in the floor or on a bracket on the PSU side also if needed.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13578962*
> I'm putting my M8 together as I type this. It's has so much room and makes my watercooled build so much easier. I'm running two RX360s on the top. I believe you can do the same with the M10. Jim said the XL-ATX mobo tray doesn't allow a rad on the mono side, but that's if you mount the rad inside. Since I have the rad on top, only the fans sit on the inside of the roof. Only monor mod needed is to notch the roof for the XSPC rad, as they use a hex bung that needs to be cleared so it drops right on top. Any other rad fits fine. You also can mount a third rad in the floor or on a bracket on the PSU side also if needed.


Are you adding fans on the outside as well (for push/pull)?


----------



## fazio93

i just got my rs240 installed. i'll post pics later.

with hyper 212+:
idle: ~37-38
load: 54-55 prime small fft
web browsing/YouTube: 47-49

now:
idle: 35-36
load: 43-44 prime small fft
web browsing/YouTube: never over 41

does that look normal with a 26-27C ambient with my current clocks/voltages?

also, how much did you guys tighten the screws on the cpu block? i'm almost at where the springs are fully compressed, but not quite completely there.

thanks


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13578962*
> I'm putting my M8 together as I type this. It's has so much room and makes my watercooled build so much easier. I'm running two RX360s on the top. I believe you can do the same with the M10. Jim said the XL-ATX mobo tray doesn't allow a rad on the mono side, but that's if you mount the rad inside. Since I have the rad on top, only the fans sit on the inside of the roof. Only monor mod needed is to notch the roof for the XSPC rad, as they use a hex bung that needs to be cleared so it drops right on top. Any other rad fits fine. You also can mount a third rad in the floor or on a bracket on the PSU side also if needed.


that is nice, I was thinking of doing one on the door and one inside on top on the power supply side, but i like that set you have as well, except then I would get the extended top to cover them. Then I would not know what to do with all of that room on the power supply side.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;13579185*
> i just got my rs240 installed. i'll post pics later.
> 
> with hyper 212+:
> idle: ~37-38
> load: 54-55 prime small fft
> web browsing/YouTube: 47-49
> 
> now:
> idle: 35-36
> load: 43-44 prime small fft
> web browsing/YouTube: never over 41
> 
> does that look normal with a 26-27C ambient with my current clocks/voltages?
> 
> also, how much did you guys tighten the screws on the cpu block? i'm almost at where the springs are fully compressed, but not quite completely there.
> 
> thanks


Was that using the TIM that came with the kit?


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13579243*
> Was that using the TIM that came with the kit?


mx-2


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13579150*
> Are you adding fans on the outside as well (for push/pull)?


Nope, just push only. I can't add another fan on top of the rad. The extended cover won't fit. It just clears the RX360 rads alone.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13579195*
> that is nice, I was thinking of doing one on the door and one inside on top on the power supply side, but i like that set you have as well, except then I would get the extended top to cover them. Then I would not know what to do with all of that room on the power supply side.


Well, the PSU side mounts the HDD cages in the front area. I didn't have them installed, so there's less room than you see, but still has room to install a rad mount bracket for a third radiator.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Well, the PSU side mounts the HDD cages in the front area. I didn't have them installed, so there's less room than you see, but still has room to install a rad mount bracket for a third radiator.


Understand, I plan on getting a M10 with the extended top, now the details is where it gets funny. White or black case, what ass to get,,stuff like that.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Understand, I plan on getting a M10 with the extended top, now the details is where it gets funny. White or black case, what ass to get,,stuff like that.


Jim just introduced that due to popular demand. Plus he discounted the cases now also. I was in on the March deal and made some suggestions for revisions and got a good deal from Jim. If you want a good case for water-cooling a serious system, it's one of the best choices, since you can tailor it to what you need.

Just as a FYI, my build got cut short tonight. I may a serious error on my mobo and fried it.







gonna RMA it, but I want my build running this week, so I may just pull the trigger on a new Gigabyte OC-X58 mobo instead. It sucks, but it's an upgrade at least.


----------



## wahrheitoderpflicht

ive done a little bit of reading up (20ish pages from this thread and couple sites that did reviews) and I cant seem to find a definite answer. Currently I have an i7 950 @ 4.01GHz 1.378v mated with lapped thermalright. I am seeing no more than 65C under 24/7 100% load (i fold). Will I see a negligible drop in temp if i bought the RS360 kit?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wahrheitoderpflicht*


ive done a little bit of reading up (20ish pages from this thread and couple sites that did reviews) and I cant seem to find a definite answer. Currently I have an i7 950 @ 4.01GHz 1.378v mated with lapped thermalright. I am seeing no more than 65C under 24/7 100% load (i fold). Will I see a negligible drop in temp if i bought the RS360 kit?


You should see a drop, maybe not as much. I'd say about high 50's, low 60's. Water cooled will always cool more than air. If you can fit a RX360, got for it, unless the thicker rad won't fit in your case. I never done lapped heat-sinks, so I can't tell your 100% you're gonna see a huge improvement.


----------



## wahrheitoderpflicht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


You should see a drop, maybe not as much. I'd say about high 50's, low 60's. Water cooled will always cool more than air. If you can fit a RX360, got for it, unless the thicker rad won't fit in your case. I never done lapped heat-sinks, so I can't tell your 100% you're gonna see a huge improvement.


i just dont want to drop 130-180 bucks on something if i will only see 5C improvement. To me that is not worth it. But if it brought it down to say 50-55C full load it would be justifiable

-edit-
forgot to mention that this is my first time WCing (other than a homemade setup on an old pentium) so I dont know what to get what not to get etc...that is why a kit intrigues me


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wahrheitoderpflicht*


i just dont want to drop 130-180 bucks on something if i will only see 5C improvement. To me that is not worth it. But if it brought it down to say 50-55C full load it would be justifiable

-edit-
forgot to mention that this is my first time WCing (other than a homemade setup on an old pentium) so I dont know what to get what not to get etc...that is why a kit intrigues me


overclock3D did a review on the rs360 kit and tested with various settings for the i7 950 against top air coolers. The results got better the higher they overclocked.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/c...g_kit_review/1


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Jim just introduced that due to popular demand. Plus he discounted the cases now also. I was in on the March deal and made some suggestions for revisions and got a good deal from Jim. If you want a good case for water-cooling a serious system, it's one of the best choices, since you can tailor it to what you need.

Just as a FYI, my build got cut short tonight. I may a serious error on my mobo and fried it.







gonna RMA it, but I want my build running this week, so I may just pull the trigger on a new Gigabyte OC-X58 mobo instead. It sucks, but it's an upgrade at least.


Man that sucks. I plan to try and get one the middle of next month and order parts as i can, so i can transfer parts over in one day. my plan: Plan it out, get the case in hand, order other needed parts and make a day of moving everything over.


----------



## wahrheitoderpflicht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


overclock3D did a review on the rs360 kit and tested with various settings for the i7 950 against top air coolers. The results got better the higher they overclocked.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/c...g_kit_review/1


i saw this... meh if this is it then i will probably pass. my look into water cooling has proved to be useless. maybe its just this kit that has failed my needs and there is a better cooling solution out there...idk


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wahrheitoderpflicht*


i saw this... meh if this is it then i will probably pass. my look into water cooling has proved to be useless. maybe its just this kit that has failed my needs and there is a better cooling solution out there...idk


There is a minium of a 9.5c drop against the highest end air coolers at the lowest overclocked settings.. Only the nh-D14 managed to even boot at the highest settings and the water kit beat it by 15.25c.. I'm not sure what you were expecting, but the results here are a testament to the superiority of water cooling (over air anyway).


----------



## mrsmiles

just wondering how do you go about remove a gpu's stock cooler? is it easy enough to remove and put back together?


----------



## wahrheitoderpflicht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


There is a minium of a 9.5c drop against the highest end air coolers at the lowest overclocked settings.. Only the nh-D14 managed to even boot at the highest settings and the water kit beat it by 15.25c.. I'm not sure what you were expecting, but the results here are a testament to the superiority of water cooling (over air anyway).


according to their results... the kit @ 4.2ghz 1.35v loads @ 61C... my setup 4ghz @ 1.378 loads at 65C thats 4C less for .038v less. I dont consider a 4C drop worth it. And according to the same results, my thermalright beats out a noctua by 8C??? yea ok


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wahrheitoderpflicht*


according to their results... the kit @ 4.2ghz 1.35v loads @ 61C... my setup 4ghz @ 1.378 loads at 65C thats 4C less for .038v less. I dont consider a 4C drop worth it. And according to the same results, my thermalright beats out a noctua by 8C??? yea ok


Like I said, max 5c drop, BUT water-cooling does have more reserve and stability. If it's not the temps you want to achieve, then fine. Only difference is it's still less temps over air with less work involved. If you're after overall leas temps, it's worth it. You can still reduce temps with a EK waterblock, Indigo Extreme, RX 360 rad and a Laing DDC pump. If you had went straight to WC system, you would have had a significant drop in temp. With that said, the investment and time tuning a WC loop would yield greater results over an air cooled system. You're at the point were cost for temps is getting less efficient.


----------



## SandShark

*The Black Phantom* System update: http://www.overclock.net/album.php?u=146414










Installed a Danger Den DD-GTX580/570 Black Chrome Top and Nickle Base water block to my GTX580. The Chrome finish is so shiny you can only see the reflection of the motherboard. The block dropped my temps from 35C idle/72C load to 28C idle/42 load. Very pleased with the block's look and performance. Also changed the TIM on both the CPU and GPU blocks to IC Diamond 24k. It's quite thick and pasty, but really performs well. CPU Temps 30C idle/52C load.




























I also swapped the clear tubing for black PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing - 3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD. Since the inside of the case is black it looks better now with the black and silver colors tubes and fittings. Plus the 12GB RAM are black and silver too.

Added a Black Ice GT stealth 120mm Radiator as well. Here is where my Phantom has a problem. The 120mm Radiator would hit the top 360 radiator if I mounted it on the inside back fan area. Mounting it outside I found the two tubing holes are too close together, so the radiator tube holes don't match up to the case holes. I had to create enough space to fit a 45 degree rotary fitting in order to get the left tube to connect. I used a 120mm fan (gutted) as a shroud/spacer and a regular 120mm fan connected to the radiator pushing air out and another fan on back of the rad. pulling air. This allowed the tubes to connect fine, and the rad. airflow is great, but it looks like a primitive jet pack out back.



























I swapped out the fans for Yate Loon Medium and high fans - big improvement! The mediums at full speed are silent and more more air than the stock white NZXT fans, and the high speed ones push a ton of air, yet get loud at full speed. Funny thing, the temps of the CPU and GPU barely change 1C when the high speed fans are low or high. I'd just get the medium Yates in the future as they are excellent.

Changed the side door 200mm fan a couple times too. First the stock fan, but at full it barely moves any air. I then tried the NZXT FN 200RB "high speed" fan, but it was REALLY noisy at speeds medium and up. Returned that and got a Coolermaster 200 Red LED fan (I prefer red over blue) and it performs right in between the stock and high speed NZXT fans. Moves more air than the stock, yet at full speed is very quiet. One small problem was the mounting holes on the fan don't line up with the case holes. So I just drilled new holes which are very close to the case holes - about 4mm. The fan filter is too small for the Cooler Master 200mm fan, just barely, so I left it out.










Added a little 5mm Red LED into the Water reservoir to light it up in the front 5.25mm drive bay. I was going to change the top buttons and controller light from blue to red... next time. The two Yate Loon Medium Red LED fans on the door dimm as you lower the speed from the top control, which is nice at night.










As most of you know, cases gets really heavy when you have all your parts in, so these small wheels from home depot make it easier to move around.

May suprise some water coolers here, but I'm switching from distilled water (silver coil and sulf.) to a Clear Koolance fluid.

There are a few small things I may change in the future, but for now I'm very happy with this current set up.









You can see the the old pics and parts here: http://img593.imageshack.us/slidesho...=dscf1926p.jpg


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wahrheitoderpflicht*


according to their results... the kit @ 4.2ghz 1.35v loads @ 61C... my setup 4ghz @ 1.378 loads at 65C thats 4C less for .038v less. I dont consider a 4C drop worth it. And according to the same results, my thermalright beats out a noctua by 8C??? yea ok


What are you ambient temps compared to theirs? Directly comparing temps to other peoples' usually yields faulty results.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wahrheitoderpflicht*


ive done a little bit of reading up (20ish pages from this thread and couple sites that did reviews) and I cant seem to find a definite answer. Currently I have an i7 950 @ 4.01GHz 1.378v mated with lapped thermalright. I am seeing no more than 65C under 24/7 100% load (i fold). Will I see a negligible drop in temp if i bought the RS360 kit?


Well, my similar i7-920 temps dropped just over 10C (load) with the XSPC kit. IC Diamond 24k TIM helped too. Your temps of 65C is fine for the i7, and you really won't get much of a higher overclock on the i7-950 by switching to WC, nor any real world performance gain.

Is it the heat coming out of the case that's bothering you? Why the sudden need to switch to WC? And since you're just cooling the CPU, the Corsair H60 or H70 are good performers without needing a build yourself water cooling kit.

Since you fold, I do as well, I'd first recommend getting a better Video Card (GPU). You'll get better ppd numbers than your CPU and at faster times. Your GTS 250 is definitely the weaker hardware in your PC. The GTX560, for example, is a great card that would yield higher folding results than your 950 or GTS250. You could even lower your CPU clock to 3.8, save power/energy, heat and still have better folding results.

Quote:



For CUDA-based Folding (which is up to 140 times faster than current CPU's), you will want to run at least the [email protected]


 - http://www.evga.com/folding/guides.asp Plenty of forums and data to read up on.

Just something for you to consider. -SS


----------



## Boyboyd

Draining my loop for the first time. I have no drain line, any advice?

ATM i'm just going to remove everything from my case, pull the res out of the front bay, remove the fillport plug and just tip it upside down.


----------



## wahrheitoderpflicht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SandShark*


Well, my similar i7-920 temps dropped just over 10C (load) with the XSPC kit. IC Diamond 24k TIM helped too. Your temps of 65C is fine for the i7, and you really won't get much of a higher overclock on the i7-950 by switching to WC, nor any real world performance gain.

Is it the heat coming out of the case that's bothering you? Why the sudden need to switch to WC? And since you're just cooling the CPU, the Corsair H60 or H70 are good performers without needing a build yourself water cooling kit.

Since you fold, I do as well, I'd first recommend getting a better Video Card (GPU). You'll get better ppd numbers than your CPU and at faster times. Your GTS 250 is definitely the weaker hardware in your PC. The GTX560, for example, is a great card that would yield higher folding results than your 950 or GTS250. You could even lower your CPU clock to 3.8, save power/energy, heat and still have better folding results.

- http://www.evga.com/folding/guides.asp Plenty of forums and data to read up on.

Just something for you to consider. -SS


no on the heat issue. i want to basically tinker around and push as much out of the chip as i can.

as far as the video card goes, ive upgraded, tho not much better lol. but i am happy with my ppd. 33K PPD from the cpu alone on bigadv at the current wattage i havnt found a gfx card to compare. nor the price either. dropping it doesnt help, i have tried several setups voltages, clocks, etc... still tweaking tho

sorry if my msg is hard to read. i just woke up.


----------



## fazio93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fazio93*


i just got my rs240 installed. i'll post pics later.

with hyper 212+: 
idle: ~37-38
load: 54-55 prime small fft
web browsing/YouTube: 47-49

now: 
idle: 35-36
load: 43-44 prime small fft
web browsing/YouTube: never over 41

does that look normal with a 26-27C ambient with my current clocks/voltages?

also, how much did you guys tighten the screws on the cpu block? i'm almost at where the springs are fully compressed, but not quite completely there.

thanks


bump


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Im finally deciding to watercool my 470 but i don't know which block i want. I've heard issues with the Ek block and i haven't heard anything about the bitspower. Which has me leaning towards to DD.. i wish koolance still made theirs =/


----------



## Retrolock

First time going water here and I bought the RS240 kit.







I will add another rs240 rad down the road once I decide to water my gpu also. I have an antec kuhler 620 on hand but I decided to sell it and get the xspc kit instead. Will install and test it later tonight.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrolock;13603747*
> First time going water here and I bought the RS240 kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will add another rs240 rad down the road once I decide to water my gpu also. I have an antec kuhler 620 on hand but I decided to sell it and get the xspc kit instead. Will install and test it later tonight.


Welcome kabayan!!!

U will see a big difference and u will be happy with the result...

Have fun!!


----------



## Boyboyd

I'm seriously leaning towards getting an rs360 (half the price) for the top of my 700d to pair with my rx240. The only problem is that the 240 is mounted at the top, internally. and the 360 would be on the top, externally.

I've seen some build logs where people have used rad sandwiches. Obviously it's not as good, but do you think it would be worthwhile?

All i'd need is a 360 rad, 2 barbs, and another 1m of tubing.


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Havoknova*


Welcome kabayan!!!

U will see a big difference and u will be happy with the result...

Have fun!!


Uy thanks kabayan! I finished my setup and I leaked test and bleed then went to sleep. Then this morning I finished everything up and checked the temps. Load temps were 10c better on prime 95. Then the pc suddenly died. No leaks whatsoever, but I think I tightened the screws of the cpu block too much, causing the board to bend. The pc won't post, I get debug code "00" then it dies. Later tonight I'll go easy on the cpu block lol.

Can anybody please post a pic of how they mounted the rads at the back of the case? Thanks!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I'm putting my M8 together as I type this. It's has so much room and makes my watercooled build so much easier. I'm running two RX360s on the top. I believe you can do the same with the M10. Jim said the XL-ATX mobo tray doesn't allow a rad on the mono side, but that's if you mount the rad inside. Since I have the rad on top, only the fans sit on the inside of the roof. Only monor mod needed is to notch the roof for the XSPC rad, as they use a hex bung that needs to be cleared so it drops right on top. Any other rad fits fine. You also can mount a third rad in the floor or on a bracket on the PSU side also if needed.


what is your temp @4GHz on XSPC Rasa CPU block?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;13613659*
> what is your temp @4GHz on XSPC Rasa CPU block?


When I ran just the CPU on LinX, the highest temps was 65C after hours of running. I have Ceramique as the TIM for now. I also have Shin Etsu 7783D and Prolimatch PF-1 to try on it soon. If I ran my 6870s on Furmark for 3 hours, then ran CPU right after, the CPU temp just barely hit 71C after 1 hour, but that's after two GPUs have completely heated the system up. I'm switching my I7 860 back to a full XSPC RASA RX360 kit with the 6870s added again. It was running my two 6990s, but I really needed to get those into a larger waterloop and onto a better motherboard.

These temps are from my RX360 kit in a HAF-932 with Koolance 120mm 2K RPM fans.


----------



## ht_addict

I currently have the RX240 kit cooling my CPU and Dual 6850's. Temps seem fine, but I've decided to add a 120mm Single Rad at the back of my case in a push pull. To much? Also as far as air flow, is this okay:

Front in(120mm)
Back Push Pull In(Dual 120mm)
Top Pull Out(Dual 120mm)
Left side Pull in(140mm Noctua or 220mm case fan)


----------



## Penumbra

Can anyone tell me how to properly tighten the cpu block without over tightening it? Is there a way to properly do so? I read somewhere that you want to tighten 2.5 revolutions after initial screw engagement. is that true?

I just don't want to bend the board but still be snug enough for the thermal paste to work.

Thanks!


----------



## Boyboyd

I think as long as they are all tightened the same you should be ok. I know mine were A LOT more than 2.5 turns before i started to encounter resistance. Think it was closer to 5 complete turns.

Edit:











Oh god. Paint's .jpg compression hurts my eyes


----------



## wetfit9

Planning a upgrade on my case and water cooling next month. Need some input. I love my kit and just wanted know if this would work: plan to upgrade to a Case Lab case. 2: plan to add a second RX360 Rad. So I will be running 2 RX360 and a rs360 to cool my CPU and 2 580's. Adding a third 580 down the road but not now. Case first. Question: I plan to continue to use my res/pump and just add a second pump in the loop. Where in the loop would be the best place to add a second pump and what type of pump is needed or can it be done. I thought about just adding a second Rx360 kit and run two loops but I would like to just have one loop. Any suggestions?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13618475*
> Planning a upgrade on my case and water cooling next month. Need some input. I love my kit and just wanted know if this would work: plan to upgrade to a Case Lab case. 2: plan to add a second RX360 Rad. So I will be running 2 RX360 and a rs360 to cool my CPU and 2 580's. Adding a third 580 down the road but not now. Case first. Question: I plan to continue to use my res/pump and just add a second pump in the loop. Where in the loop would be the best place to add a second pump and what type of pump is needed or can it be done. I thought about just adding a second Rx360 kit and run two loops but I would like to just have one loop. Any suggestions?


I would say to stay in a single loop. If you want to use a single pump, there's the XSPC dual 5.25 bay pump reservoir for DDC and D5 pumps. I use the DDC reservoir now. As for the loop, I would go pump/res> cpu> RX360> gpus> RX360> RS360> pump/res. Running two separate loops is a PITA IMO. Other option is Koolance's reservoir. It can run two pumps (D5 or DDC, depending on what model), in serial, or parallel separate loops. Also, prefer to run GPUs in parallel, no serial. I don't daisy-chaining heat from one GPU card to the next. I felt the tubing temp in and out of my 6990s and its significantly hotter on the outlet. In serials circuit, that would be dumped into the second GPU card, which is not good.


----------



## Boyboyd

If you want to add another pump to the rasa kit, do you have to remove the original? Or can you just run them in series?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13618888*
> If you want to add another pump to the rasa kit, do you have to remove the original? Or can you just run them in series?


Some one said you could, but I don't think its a good idea IMO. They wanted to use the XSPC pump/res as a res only with the pump unplugged.


----------



## Boyboyd

But if they're both powered? I actually like the idea of bay reservoirs.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13618969*
> But if they're both powered? I actually like the idea of bay reservoirs.


The X20 750 pump may actually decrease the flow on with a D5 or DDC pump. IMO, its best to just let the coolant flow through the impeller.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13619318*
> The X20 750 pump may actually decrease the flow on with a D5 or DDC pump. IMO, its best to just let the coolant flow through the impeller.


Or remove it entirely.

Thanks. I'll probably replace the bay res when i upgrade.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;13615023*
> I currently have the RX240 kit cooling my CPU and Dual 6850's. Temps seem fine, but I've decided to add a 120mm Single Rad at the back of my case in a push pull. To much? Also as far as air flow, is this okay:
> 
> Front in(120mm)
> Back Push Pull In(Dual 120mm)
> Top Pull Out(Dual 120mm)
> Left side Pull in(140mm Noctua or 220mm case fan)


If the question is, can the pump handle it, the answer is yes. As far as air flow, well I will leave that up to you. If your temp/noise is good then you are fine.

So what I am hearing is go with a dual pumps to run everything in one loop.( best pump to go with?) It seem I will have some reading to do. I want to take up less space yet get water flow. Thanks ahead of time.


----------



## Retrolock

Remounted the cpu block and didn't tighten it too much this time.










lol my tube from res to rad is too long. I will probably redo the loop later on but it's damn hard to pull tube from the fittings (is that what you call it?)


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13620215*
> If the question is, can the pump handle it, the answer is yes. As far as air flow, well I will leave that up to you. If your temp/noise is good then you are fine.
> 
> So what I am hearing is go with a dual pumps to run everything in one loop.( best pump to go with?) It seem I will have some reading to do. I want to take up less space yet get water flow. Thanks ahead of time.


If you go dual pumps, then the Koolance res seems to be the best option. You will need the loop back pipe for serial connection. The D5 pumps generally are quieter than DDC pumps, but DDC pumps flow better on restrictive loops than D5 pumps. Also, if you get the Koolance reservoir, get the revised V1.1


----------



## ajmidd12

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Retrolock*


Remounted the cpu block and didn't tighten it too much this time.

*Picture*

lol my tube from res to rad is too long. I will probably redo the loop later on but it's damn hard to pull tube from the fittings (is that what you call it?)


You can use a blow dryer to slightly heat the tube, slip a flathead screwdriver under the edge of the tube and rock the tube slightly back and fourth by pulling gently. I found this was the easiest way to remove tubes from barbs.

On to my build...

I bought the RS240 kit last monday, finally received it Friday May 20, installed it Saturday May 21.

Super easy to setup, looks great (don't take my word for it see for yourself below), and keeps my computer cool and quiet now!





































For more pics and a slight build log check out this link http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-internal.html Yes, I was able to make the entire kit internal on my Antec 900 case.







Let me know what you think guys.

I will be recommending these kits to anyone looking for a cooler computer without breaking the bank.


----------



## Penumbra

Why are some cpu blocks mounted in a vertical orientation (with the in and out barbs in a North/South orientation) vs. the horizontal (with the in and out barbs in a East/West orientation)? I read somewhere that in the vertical orientation, the "out" barb should be in the North orientation so any bubbles can be naturally pushed out of the block? Is that true?

Thanks, just a noob here


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penumbra;13622916*
> Why are some cpu blocks mounted in a vertical orientation (with the in and out barbs in a North/South orientation) vs. the horizontal (with the in and out barbs in a East/West orientation)? I read somewhere that in the vertical orientation, the "out" barb should be in the North orientation so any bubbles can be naturally pushed out of the block? Is that true?
> 
> Thanks, just a noob here


orientation does not matter (with this block at least). whatever is more convenient for you. in general though, most intel users mount it horizontal b/c that's the way it comes in the kit. i mounted mine vertical


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penumbra;13622916*
> Why are some cpu blocks mounted in a vertical orientation (with the in and out barbs in a North/South orientation) vs. the horizontal (with the in and out barbs in a East/West orientation)? I read somewhere that in the vertical orientation, the "out" barb should be in the North orientation so any bubbles can be naturally pushed out of the block? Is that true?
> 
> Thanks, just a noob here


Good question. Everyone is a noob at first. Reading, learning and experience help us feel less noobish







. Those who think they're not usually end up RMAing their parts because they are too smart for operator error to occur...









Technically, it has more do with the specific block design in relation to the CPU being cooled. The majority of Intel CPUs, the Core i7-9xx series for example, have been found to produce more heat at the left side of the CPU DIE, so many water block manufactures have designed the inlet hole on the left side with the theory that the cool fluid pressure being applied directly over the hotter surface will have a better cooling effect. As with most theories, actual application varies as there are a few other variables involved. Things like the contact point between CPU and heatsink, metallic properties and variances in manufacturer production of copper, nickel and other materials involved, but for the most part that is the reason for the left inlet, right outlet design.

There are also blocks like Watercool's Heatkiller that use "A central flow system paired with a nozzle array and an outstandingly fine cooling geometry result in the extreme cooling performance of the waterblock. The baseplate can geometrically adapt to the CPU Heatspreader and therefore ensures perfect contact with the CPU. For use on a Quad core CPU the waterblock has an insertable distributor plate which directs the flow parallel to both DIEs." *See this review for more info and test results.*

Of course, as block reviews have shown, the difference is very minute for the average user. We're talking under one degree Celsius for the top 5 blocks, and about 5*C for all 22 blocks tested.










Some users like to save every degree of temperature as major workloads across multiple cooling blocks (CPU+Motherboard+RAM+GPU+GPU+GPU...etc.) where the heat produced can add up and thus require more radiators, fans, coolant and other components, while others do it just for superficial bragging rights. For most people here it's the latter...









An easy test is to simply run your system with the block in one position, run the programs, games and test that you would normally use and take temp readings during this process. Then switch the orientation and repeat to see which, if any, position is better for YOUR setup. I emphasize your because eventhough we all may have the same RASA block, as i mentioned earlier, there are a few other variables involved. Your room temperature, coolant, motherboard, GPU, case, fans, programs, games and so on will be different than others so sometimes comparisons can be misleading. The fun part is experimenting for yourself and finding out what works well for you.

Also, some cpu water block mounts and/or faceplates may not line up properly or interfere with the surrounding components like the RAM slots or heatsinks, AMD boards in particular, so turning the block or faceplate is done for fitting purposes.

As far as block orientation for bubbles... lol ... no! The author of wherever you read this is a bit naive







. I can explain it more technically, but for now a simple *no* should suffice. I wonder if that person is the same one who told me dry ice (sealed) packed with lobsters in a box will kill them and give me a toxic reaction if I ate them. Yea, after years of eating them that way you'd think millions would have died by now! (Never listen too a freshman MIT student not from New England concerning lobster....


----------



## freeride

1) rx240 vs silver arrow -> what differences would there be in temps and noise ?
2)planning to get a 560ti card , adding another rx240 rad+gou block would be too much for the pump in the kit?

On my current setup [nirvana nv120 cooler], the cpu hits ~80*C @4g with 1.36v (thought it might be needed as reference)

Asking because I would like to go liquid, but I don't want to spend double on cooling for only a small drop in temp


----------



## wetfit9

I cannot compare the silver arrow with a RX240 as I don't own either, but the pump can handle cpu and gpu block alone with two rads. I am currently running a RX360 and a RX120, cpu and two gpu blocks off one pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freeride;13632633*
> 1) rx240 vs silver arrow -> what differences would there be in temps and noise ?
> 2)planning to get a 560ti card , adding another rx240 rad+gou block would be too much for the pump in the kit?
> 
> On my current setup [nirvana nv120 cooler], the cpu hits ~80*C @4g with 1.36v (thought it might be needed as reference)
> 
> Asking because I would like to go liquid, but I don't want to spend double on cooling for only a small drop in temp


----------



## wetfit9

Hi guys, question: I am updating my case to a case lab case next month, but had a question about he set of my kits. I just picked up a second XSPC res/pump for $10. So when I get my case I was thinking of running these together in one loop, but my research say that is not a good idea. My next idea is to run two loops. One RX360 and a RX120 for the cpu block. One RX360 and rs120 for my two 580's. Any suggestions or idea's.
Down the road, I would like to run it in one loop and would pick up two DD5 pumps and a dual res that someone recommended to me earlier. These items would put my build off a while because of the price of the two pumps and the res. Don't know weather to wait or what.


----------



## UberN00B

Im thinking about going into water, i currently have a TRUE 120. My room gets really hot in the summer, hottest room in the house (id say about 30-35). When this occurs, my Q6600 hits high 60's at 100 load.

Will I benefit from a RX240 kit? I have no intentions of getting a block for my GTX 460 because its really expensive.

Thanks!


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UberN00B;13633254*
> Im thinking about going into water, i currently have a TRUE 120. My room gets really hot in the summer, hottest room in the house (id say about 30-35). When this occurs, my Q6600 hits high 60's at 100 load.
> 
> Will I benefit from a RX240 kit? I have no intentions of getting a block for my GTX 460 because its really expensive.
> 
> Thanks!


Unless your radiator is in a different room then watercooling will actually make your room hotter.

But it's a massive increase over a true, as mighty as they were back in their day.

I don't think i'll ever go back to air cooling.


----------



## UberN00B

dang. having the rad in another room isn't an option unless i cut holes in my wall... haha

I am seriously contemplating between air vs water, but my end-goal was to lower ambient temps in my room because i end up sweating in my room in the summer.

is there a big difference in temps between the RX360 and 240 for temps on a single CPU? Like earlier, i have no intention of cooling GPU, just max single CPU cooling. Maybe the XSPC isnt what im looking for?


----------



## Boyboyd

Probably not a big difference. Even with a hot CPU like your quad.

If your aiming to get your room temp as low as it can be i'd stick to air. The hotter the CPU is, then the cooler the room is. And vice versa.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freeride;13632633*
> 1) rx240 vs silver arrow -> what differences would there be in temps and noise ?
> 2)planning to get a 560ti card , adding another rx240 rad+gou block would be too much for the pump in the kit?
> 
> On my current setup [nirvana nv120 cooler], the cpu hits ~80*C @4g with 1.36v (thought it might be needed as reference)
> 
> Asking because I would like to go liquid, but I don't want to spend double on cooling for only a small drop in temp


Well silver arrow is like a noctua nh-d14

My nh-d14 vs the rs360 the idle temp is close or equal...not so much difference...

But on load temps thats where water hits great..its about 5-10c more lower than the nh-d14...

Thats what i saw on my own experience..

So ur rx240 will be better on load temps..


----------



## SmasherBasher

Just got this first one installed and began leak testing. Can't really tell if the punp inside the res is working. It looks like there is an impeller on the left side of the res (looking at it from the front) that should be spinning. It is not. I can feel it vibrating as a pump does, but can't tell if it's actually pumping water. How can I tell?


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;13635987*
> Just got this first one installed and began leak testing. Can't really tell if the punp inside the res is working. It looks like there is an impeller on the left side of the res (looking at it from the front) that should be spinning. It is not. I can feel it vibrating as a pump does, but can't tell if it's actually pumping water. How can I tell?


well if ur temp didnt go sky rocket then ur pumo is working...other than that if u got a noisy pump that 1 u can tell that ur pump still running...but if its dead silent pump then ull just gonna rely on ur temp monitor or buy u a flow meter =)


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;13635987*
> Just got this first one installed and began leak testing. Can't really tell if the punp inside the res is working. It looks like there is an impeller on the left side of the res (looking at it from the front) that should be spinning. It is not. I can feel it vibrating as a pump does, but can't tell if it's actually pumping water. How can I tell?


Not again







You're probably looking at the pump impeller housing structure. Disconnect the pump and you'll see a 6 blade impeller. You don't see that when it's on because its spinning. I assume you filled the reservoir up completely with no air. If so, you can't see water movement.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13633080*
> Hi guys, question: I am updating my case to a case lab case next month, but had a question about he set of my kits. I just picked up a second XSPC res/pump for $10. So when I get my case I was thinking of running these together in one loop, but my research say that is not a good idea. My next idea is to run two loops. One RX360 and a RX120 for the cpu block. One RX360 and rs120 for my two 580's. Any suggestions or idea's.
> Down the road, I would like to run it in one loop and would pick up two DD5 pumps and a dual res that someone recommended to me earlier. These items would put my build off a while because of the price of the two pumps and the res. Don't know weather to wait or what.


First, which case lab case are you getting?

Second, you already know the XSPC pump handles your current setup, so why go to different pumps?

Unhappy with your current temps?

Are you adding more 580s that will increase your heat?

I agree there is no need for two pumps in a single loop. Plus the two pumps, even-though similar, may not create the exact same pressure which could throw off one of the pumps and cause failure. Better off going with 2 loops which will isolate the heat to the specific components and thus cool more efficient and effectively.

For example, when I set my CPU to stock it idles at 29C (ambient temps here 30-32C) and the GTX580 at 29C - I also have one 360 rad and one 120 rad, but the thinner RS style (not XSPC see my specs). When I set [email protected] to run just on the GPU my 580 goes up to about 39C at 99% load (great considering on air it was 70C). While the CPU, which is still idling, goes up to 33-35C. So the heat of the 580 at full load raises the temp of the fluid (minus the released heat from the rads) enough to change the CPU up 4-6C. That is because the fluid temps in the system will level off at a ratio of heat created/heat dissipated. Adding more rads helps dissipate more heat, adding an extra pump will not. Unless your pump drops severely in flow rate, or you have more than 2 meters of tubing, the difference between higher speeds of a pump will be minimal - if at all. The fluid still needs the heat to be released through the rads.

So in your system, separating the two 580s in SLI from the 980 (awesome CPU BTW) could keep the 980 temps low while the 580s are working and vice versa. One giant loop in theory would dissipate heat the same, but in reality it's not always the case. So why raise the temps of one component just because the other components are producing more heat? It also depends on what temps you're comfortable with. I fine with the temps for my 920 and single 580. So decide whatever temps you're comfortable with.

Try running an app. like folding the way I explained for yourself and see what happens to the temps.

Plus, if the difference of 2 loops and pumps vs your current setup is only a few degrees, is it worth the extra expense? Since you already have an extra XSPC pump/res you could either keep it as a back up should your current pump have trouble in the future, add the second loop as discussed (if your case has the room like maybe the bottom) or sell it for a little coin - $10 was a GREAT bargain! That is, of course, if it's in good condition. Buying a two pump in one res would save space, but not change the cooling. I think XSPC may have a two pump res for these pumps around $45 or so, which you could put your two current pumps in and not have to waste the money on the other DD5 pumps.

Just my 2cents, -SS


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark;13636947*
> First, which case lab case are you getting?
> 
> Second, you already know the XSPC pump handles your current setup, so why go to different pumps?
> 
> Unhappy with your current temps?
> 
> Are you adding more 580s that will increase your heat?
> 
> I agree there is no need for two pumps in a single loop. Plus the two pumps, even-though similar, may not create the exact same pressure which could throw off one of the pumps and cause failure. Better off going with 2 loops which will isolate the heat to the specific components and thus cool more efficient and effectively.
> 
> For example, when I set my CPU to stock it idles at 29C (ambient temps here 30-32C) and the GTX580 at 29C - I also have one 360 rad and one 120 rad, but the thinner RS style (not XSPC see my specs). When I set [email protected] to run just on the GPU my 580 goes up to about 39C at 99% load (great considering on air it was 70C). While the CPU, which is still idling, goes up to 33-35C. So the heat of the 580 at full load raises the temp of the fluid (minus the released heat from the rads) enough to change the CPU up 4-6C. That is because the fluid temps in the system will level off at a ratio of heat created/heat dissipated. Adding more rads helps dissipate more heat, adding an extra pump will not. Unless your pump drops severely in flow rate, or you have more than 2 meters of tubing, the difference between higher speeds of a pump will be minimal - if at all. The fluid still needs the heat to be released through the rads.
> 
> So in your system, separating the two 580s in SLI from the 980 (awesome CPU BTW) could keep the 980 temps low while the 580s are working and vice versa. One giant loop in theory would dissipate heat the same, but in reality it's not always the case. So why raise the temps of one component just because the other components are producing more heat? It also depends on what temps you're comfortable with. I fine with the temps for my 920 and single 580. So decide whatever temps you're comfortable with.
> 
> Try running an app. like folding the way I explained for yourself and see what happens to the temps.
> 
> Plus, if the difference of 2 loops and pumps vs your current setup is only a few degrees, is it worth the extra expense? Since you already have an extra XSPC pump/res you could either keep it as a back up should your current pump have trouble in the future, add the second loop as discussed (if your case has the room like maybe the bottom) or sell it for a little coin - $10 was a GREAT bargain! That is, of course, if it's in good condition. Buying a two pump in one res would save space, but not change the cooling. I think XSPC may have a two pump res for these pumps around $45 or so, which you could put your two current pumps in and not have to waste the money on the other DD5 pumps.
> 
> Just my 2cents, -SS


Two pumps will work in series. It's been done plenty of times before. They even have three pump setups, but that's really overkill. The reservoir to use is the Koolance RP-402X2 for DDC pump, or RP-452X2 for the D5 pump.They have the loop back serial pipe which allows them to work together in series. The cool thing about this setup is, if one pump fails, it still works fine off one pump. The other pump does not block off the flow at all. For me, I would use the DDC pump from Bmaverick, since they are $35 each shipped. It's a 10watt pump and they don't run as hot as the 18 watt DDC 3.2 versions. Once I get my M8 case waterloop system settled, I will most likely go to the Koolance reservoir and move my XSPC single DDC pump into my RASA RX360 system.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark;13636947*
> First, which case lab case are you getting?
> I plan on getting M10 with the extended top as of now, but that could change[/G]
> Second, you already know the XSPC pump handles your current setup, so why go to different pumps?
> That is true.
> 
> Unhappy with your current temps?
> Not unhappy with my temps, but with the addition of a second rx360 I think they would be better
> Are you adding more 580s that will increase your heat?
> Plan to add a third 580 in a few months
> 
> I agree there is no need for two pumps in a single loop. Plus the two pumps, even-though similar, may not create the exact same pressure which could throw off one of the pumps and cause failure. Better off going with 2 loops which will isolate the heat to the specific components and thus cool more efficient and effectively.
> 
> For example, when I set my CPU to stock it idles at 29C (ambient temps here 30-32C) and the GTX580 at 29C - I also have one 360 rad and one 120 rad, but the thinner RS style (not XSPC see my specs). When I set [email protected] to run just on the GPU my 580 goes up to about 39C at 99% load (great considering on air it was 70C). While the CPU, which is still idling, goes up to 33-35C. So the heat of the 580 at full load raises the temp of the fluid (minus the released heat from the rads) enough to change the CPU up 4-6C. That is because the fluid temps in the system will level off at a ratio of heat created/heat dissipated. Adding more rads helps dissipate more heat, adding an extra pump will not. Unless your pump drops severely in flow rate, or you have more than 2 meters of tubing, the difference between higher speeds of a pump will be minimal - if at all. The fluid still needs the heat to be released through the rads.
> 
> So in your system, separating the two 580s in SLI from the 980 (awesome CPU BTW) could keep the 980 temps low while the 580s are working and vice versa. One giant loop in theory would dissipate heat the same, but in reality it's not always the case. So why raise the temps of one component just because the other components are producing more heat? It also depends on what temps you're comfortable with. I fine with the temps for my 920 and single 580. So decide whatever temps you're comfortable with.
> 
> Try running an app. like folding the way I explained for yourself and see what happens to the temps.
> 
> Plus, if the difference of 2 loops and pumps vs your current setup is only a few degrees, is it worth the extra expense? Since you already have an extra XSPC pump/res you could either keep it as a back up should your current pump have trouble in the future, add the second loop as discussed (if your case has the room like maybe the bottom) or sell it for a little coin - $10 was a GREAT bargain! That is, of course, if it's in good condition. Buying a two pump in one res would save space, but not change the cooling. I think XSPC may have a two pump res for these pumps around $45 or so, which you could put your two current pumps in and not have to waste the money on the other DD5 pumps.
> 
> Just my 2cents, -SS


Bottom line right now I plan to do two loops as I don't think the pump can handle all the rad and the blocks. Plus I like your idea about separating the heat. One rx360 and 1 rx120 rad for the cpu loop and one rx360 and rs120 rad for the gpu loop. Should have better temps and the expense is lower as i will use what I already have. answers in blue


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13637667*
> Two pumps will work in series. It's been done plenty of times before. They even have three pump setups, but that's really overkill. The reservoir to use is the Koolance RP-402X2 for DDC pump, or RP-452X2 for the D5 pump.They have the loop back serial pipe which allows them to work together in series. The cool thing about this setup is, if one pump fails, it still works fine off one pump. The other pump does not block off the flow at all. For me, I would use the DDC pump from Bmaverick, since they are $35 each shipped. It's a 10watt pump and they don't run as hot as the 18 watt DDC 3.2 versions. Once I get my M8 case waterloop system settled, I will most likely go to the Koolance reservoir and move my XSPC single DDC pump into my RASA RX360 system.


Yes, that is also a cool setup. The key being the "loop back serial pipe".

Although the DDC 350 pushes 440LPH vs the XSPC 750 at 750LPH. Even if you mod it to the DDC 355 specs it only puts it up around 454LPH. Right?

Might be fine for each separate loop, but wetfit9 already has two XSPC pumps, so why change to less powerful pumps?

-Just curious


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark;13638119*
> Yes, that is also a cool setup. The key being the "loop back serial pipe".
> 
> Although the DDC 350 pushes 440LPH vs the XSPC 750 at 750LPH. Even if you mod it to the DDC 355 specs it only puts it up around 454LPH. Right?
> 
> Might be fine for each separate loop, but wetfit9 already has two XSPC pumps, so why change to less powerful pumps?
> 
> -Just curious


The one thing the DDC has is pressure. As restriction builds, the X20 750 pump falls off flow faster than a D5 or DDC pump. The plain DDC-1 10 watt pumps work fine IMO and are known to last longer than the newer 3.2 pumps. $70 for two DDC pumps is quite the deal for me and my single pump has worked fine for a CPU and two 6990s on a RX360 rad.

As for DDC pump mods, there is the Sanyo board that brings it up to 12 watts and I heard runs quieter and cooler with the heatsink. Then there's the Toshiba board, which will work on a DDC 3.2 18 watt pump. The flow rate is enormous with this board, but it runs hotter and louder. The cool thing is, it has the option to install a variable pot (50K) and you can turn it way down if needed. Martinsliquidlab has the write up on these mods. The boards come from a seller on EBay.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/16/diyinhk-ddc-pump-sanyo-pcb-replacement-mod/

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/14/diyinhk-ddc-pump-mods/


----------



## wetfit9

Right now price wise it make sense to do two loops. The pump now is running 2 580's, CPU block through a rx360 and rx120 rad with no problem. So I am thinking it work a little better just through a rx360 and RX 120 and CPU for one loop and rx360 and rs120 and two 580's blocks for the second loop. The more I think about it the more it sounds good. Price wise as I don't have to spend as much more money and the fact I can start folding( which I don't do now) and the gpu temp don't rise my CPU temps. Unless I hear something better that is what I will have to go with.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ajmidd12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13633938*
> Unless your radiator is in a different room then watercooling will actually make your room hotter.
> 
> But it's a massive increase over a true, as mighty as they were back in their day.
> 
> I don't think i'll ever go back to air cooling.


LOL Wut? Watercooling definitely makes a room cooler especially if it is a CPU only loop. Think about it the heatsinks for CPU air coolers never get cold enough to keep the CPU low enough, where does all that heat go? Well in a properly vented case it would be shot out into the room.

Whereas radiators cool off through the flow of air as well but keep in mind that the water doesn't heat up as much as the fins of an aircooler would. I noticed a HUGE drop in my room ambient temps the day after running the RS240 kit for 24 hours.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UberN00B;13634131*
> dang. having the rad in another room isn't an option unless i cut holes in my wall... haha
> 
> I am seriously contemplating between air vs water, but my end-goal was to lower ambient temps in my room because i end up sweating in my room in the summer.
> 
> is there a big difference in temps between the RX360 and 240 for temps on a single CPU? Like earlier, i have no intention of cooling GPU, just max single CPU cooling. Maybe the XSPC isnt what im looking for?


If you are going with a CPU only loop, go with the RX240 it will be more than enough. It should drop your ambient temps quite a bit as well, it won't produce cool air but it will keep it cooler, in combination with an air conditioned room your computer and room will stay nice and cool!

I noticed about 10C drops in temps compared with the Xigmatek Dark Knight cooler mounted vertically.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmidd12;13644127*
> LOL Wut? Watercooling definitely makes a room cooler especially if it is a CPU only loop. Think about it the heatsinks for CPU air coolers never get cold enough to keep the CPU low enough, where does all that heat go? Well in a properly vented case it would be shot out into the room.
> 
> Whereas radiators cool off through the flow of air as well but keep in mind that the water doesn't heat up as much as the fins of an aircooler would. I noticed a HUGE drop in my room ambient temps the day after running the RS240 kit for 24 hours.
> 
> If you are going with a CPU only loop, go with the RX240 it will be more than enough. It should drop your ambient temps quite a bit as well, it won't produce cool air but it will keep it cooler, in combination with an air conditioned room your computer and room will stay nice and cool!
> 
> I noticed about 10C drops in temps compared with the Xigmatek Dark Knight cooler mounted vertically.


What kinda crack are you smoking kid. Think about what you just said. The air cooler and the water loop are not going to make a single difference in the temp of the room. The CPU is going to dump the same amount of heat no matter what, unless you change settings, the cooling method will not change the temp in the room.
You really should learn a little bit about thermodynamics before you spout off and make yourself look like an idiot.


----------



## ajmidd12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13644170*
> What kinda crack are you smoking kid. Think about what you just said. The air cooler and the water loop are not going to make a single difference in the temp of the room. The CPU is going to dump the same amount of heat no matter what, unless you change settings, the cooling method will not change the temp in the room.
> You really should learn a little bit about thermodynamics before you spout off and make yourself look like an idiot.


Okay, please explain how there was hot air being forced through the exhaust 120mm fan of my Antec 900 while using the Dark Knight air cooler in vertical alignment, and now using the water block to cool the cpu that there is room temperature air now flowing through the 120mm exhaust on my case?

I setup my system pulling ambient air in through the front, through the rad, and into the case creating a good flow of air, it heats the case up slightly but nothing near as much as the push/pull of the vertical mounted DK blowing hot air back into the room.

This is all due to the dissipation of heat now flowing through the water, into the rad to be cooled, and back through the loop. The CPU dumps the same amount of heat, yes, however the heat dissipation is much different between air and water as they transmit heat much differently water being slower. I know how thermodynamics work do you?

Water will NOT get you below ambient room temperature as your ambient is the limiting factor but it will keep you cooler than air. Well maybe it would if you used ice and chilling factors, but then that is a different argument all together.

Why do you think people comment that their air cooled system heats up their room, because it does just that!

Will his room be cooler using water cooling? I'll be willing to bet money that if he took a benchmark of his current room consistent ambient temperatures as well as the temperature of the system as test 1 for 24 hours, then retested with the same constants as test 1, except with watercooling on his CPU, that he will in fact notice ambient temperature decreases in test 2, leveling out to what it was set at in the rest of his house. Air Cooled PC's just introduce the heat back into the ambient quicker than watercooled systems as the radiator are designed to retain heat, it may also be because mine is an all internal setup with no external rads.

Keep in mind the CPU isn't the only thing dumping heat, every component does, when you eliminate the bigger heat contributors (CPU, GPU, mobo) you will find your case to be cooler which in turn produces better ambients.

I don't know how you think you can argue with what I have observed. NOTHING in the room has changed other than I added a CPU watercooling loop to my PC.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmidd12;13644928*
> Okay, please explain how there was hot air being forced through the exhaust 120mm fan of my Antec 900 while using the Dark Knight air cooler in vertical alignment, and now using the water block to cool the cpu that there is room temperature air now flowing through the 120mm exhaust on my case?
> 
> I setup my system pulling ambient air in through the front, through the rad, and into the case creating a good flow of air, it heats the case up slightly but nothing near as much as the push/pull of the vertical mounted DK blowing hot air back into the room.
> 
> This is all due to the dissipation of heat now flowing through the water, into the rad to be cooled, and back through the loop. The CPU dumps the same amount of heat, yes, however the heat dissipation is much different between air and water as they transmit heat much differently water being slower. I know how thermodynamics work do you?
> 
> Water will NOT get you below ambient room temperature as your ambient is the limiting factor but it will keep you cooler than air. Well maybe it would if you used ice and chilling factors, but then that is a different argument all together.
> 
> Why do you think people comment that their air cooled system heats up their room, because it does just that!
> 
> Will his room be cooler using water cooling? I'll be willing to bet money that if he took a benchmark of his current room consistent ambient temperatures as well as the temperature of the system as test 1 for 24 hours, then retested with the same constants as test 1, except with watercooling on his CPU, that he will in fact notice ambient temperature decreases in test 2, leveling out to what it was set at in the rest of his house. Air Cooled PC's just introduce the heat back into the ambient quicker than watercooled systems as the radiator are designed to retain heat, it may also be because mine is an all internal setup with no external rads.
> 
> Keep in mind the CPU isn't the only thing dumping heat, every component does, when you eliminate the bigger heat contributors (CPU, GPU, mobo) you will find your case to be cooler which in turn produces better ambients.
> 
> I don't know how you think you can argue with what I have observed. NOTHING in the room has changed other than I added a CPU watercooling loop to my PC.


I don't know about you, but my room is hotter using watercooling, than air cooling. The more effectively you pull heat off the CPU/GPU, the more that heat is going elsewhere, which is in the coolant, then the radiator, then the air thats passing through the radiator and dumped into the air in the room. Air cooling alone will not pull as much heat off a CPU/GPU, so there's not as much heat to be transferred, thus a cooler room. This is a computer running for 3+ hours on Crysis Warhead using a I7 860 and 2 6990s.


----------



## Retrolock

Work in progress. Gotta sleeve those case wires and yate loons.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13645663*
> I don't know about you, but my room is hotter using watercooling, than air cooling. The more effectively you pull heat off the CPU/GPU, the more that heat is going elsewhere, which is in the coolant, then the radiator, then the air thats passing through the radiator and dumped into the air in the room. Air cooling alone will not pull as much heat off a CPU/GPU, so there's not as much heat to be transferred, thus a cooler room. This is a computer running for 3+ hours on Crysis Warhead using a I7 860 and 2 6990s.


I would add to this the following... You would normally have a 240 or 360 rad with between 2-6 fans total installed depending on if you have a push/pull configuration or not. If this rad is installed inside the case, it will most likely be as an "exhaust". Those fans are not only going to move the heat from the components that the water is cooling, but they are ALSO sucking in the case's hot air (created by other components such as the GPU, soundcard, etc.) and exhausting that as well. I tend to think that my case is now expelling more hot air than before into the room. It has to go somewhere...

That's why having the rad outside of the case tends to offer better cooling than inside the case. Then, you run into the "look's" of the setup with an external rad.


----------



## Jobotoo

I'm going to be getting six Gentle Typhoon 2150RPM fans in the next few months and was wondering what temperature difference I should expect going from three stock fans on my RX360?

Currently they are in PUSH, exhausting from within case. New setup will be the same, just PUSH/PULL.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmidd12;13644127*
> LOL Wut? Watercooling definitely makes a room cooler especially if it is a CPU only loop. Think about it the heatsinks for CPU air coolers never get cold enough to keep the CPU low enough, where does all that heat go? Well in a properly vented case it would be shot out into the room.
> 
> Whereas radiators cool off through the flow of air as well but keep in mind that the water doesn't heat up as much as the fins of an aircooler would. I noticed a HUGE drop in my room ambient temps the day after running the RS240 kit for 24 hours.
> 
> If you are going with a CPU only loop, go with the RX240 it will be more than enough. It should drop your ambient temps quite a bit as well, it won't produce cool air but it will keep it cooler, in combination with an air conditioned room your computer and room will stay nice and cool!
> 
> I noticed about 10C drops in temps compared with the Xigmatek Dark Knight cooler mounted vertically.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13646201*
> I'm going to be getting six Gentle Typhoon 2150RPM fans in the next few months and was wondering what temperature difference I should expect going from three stock fans on my RX360?
> 
> Currently they are in PUSH, exhausting from within case. New setup will be the same, just PUSH/PULL.


Think of it this way.

Say a quad core gives off 100 watts of heat. It gives the same amount of heat off if it's water, air, or dice cooled.

With air cooling, the CPU is hotter, so there is less heat being pumped into the room.

Water, the CPU is cooler, even though that same 100w of heat is being given off. Because the CPU is cooler and there is the same amount of heat being given off then there has to be more heat in the room.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13646201*
> I'm going to be getting six Gentle Typhoon 2150RPM fans in the next few months and was wondering what temperature difference I should expect going from three stock fans on my RX360?
> 
> Currently they are in PUSH, exhausting from within case. New setup will be the same, just PUSH/PULL.


When I subbed the stock fans in PUSH on my RS360 for some HS YL's in PUSH/PULL, I believe I saw a 3-6*C drop but I honestly can't remember right now. But there was a drop... certainly. With those 2150's, as soon as they are shipped out we will know the end results once you guys start installing them.


----------



## ajmidd12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13646293*
> Think of it this way.
> 
> Say a quad core gives off 100 watts of heat. It gives the same amount of heat off if it's water, air, or dice cooled.
> 
> With air cooling, the CPU is hotter, so there is less heat being pumped into the room.
> 
> Water, the CPU is cooler, even though that same 100w of heat is being given off. Because the CPU is cooler and there is the same amount of heat being given off then there has to be more heat in the room.


How do you figure less heat is being pumped into the room on air? Air coolers jobs are to move the heat away from the CPU, the case fans are tasked (those in exhaust setup) with moving heat out of the case. Therefore exhausting the hot air from the CPU into the room.

Let's say 45C is being pumped into the room through the fins of an air cooled heatsink (which is what mine was around on the DK while gaming), well with watercooling it lowers the temperature of the CPU to 34C (still gaming which is the 11C of drop being run through the loop. As long as your ambient is above 11C you won't notice any additional heat in the room as it balances it out.

Maybe my setup is a freak of nature but I have noticed my room isn't a sauna on water cooling.

Not trying to piss anyone off, just noting my observations.


----------



## whiteslashasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmidd12;13646832*
> How do you figure less heat is being pumped into the room on air? Air coolers jobs are to move the heat away from the CPU, the case fans are tasked (those in exhaust setup) with moving heat out of the case. Therefore exhausting the hot air from the CPU into the room.
> 
> Let's say 45C is being pumped into the room through the fins of an air cooled heatsink (which is what mine was around on the DK while gaming), well with watercooling it lowers the temperature of the CPU to 34C (still gaming which is the 11C of drop being run through the loop. As long as your ambient is above 11C you won't notice any additional heat in the room as it balances it out.
> 
> Maybe my setup is a freak of nature but I have noticed my room isn't a sauna on water cooling.
> 
> Not trying to piss anyone off, just noting my observations.


Do you think the WC loop magically eats the extra wattage that is pulled away from the CPU?

Layman's terms:

If your CPU is 45C on air compared to the 35C of the WC loop, that means the WC loop has "absorbed" and transported away that extra 10C from the CPU. With the air cooler the CPU is holding onto that 10C.

Where does that heat go?

The copper waterblock takes that heat and transfers it to the water itself that runs through the micro fins in the block, which heats up the water and is then transported to the radiator where the water is cooled by the large surface area exposed to moving air (fans). That air is then heated up in turn and is then jettisoned into your room.

The heat is still dumped into your room one way or another, either by Air cooling or WC. WC is just a more effective method to transport *MORE* heat away from the CPU and therefore would more quickly and easily heat up your room as a result. Thus increasing your ambient temperatures unless you have some method of removing the heat from your room (AC, open door/window, etc).

At the core of it all, water cooling still requires air in order to remove the heat from the loop, it just does it over a much larger surface area and uses water as a medium to transport the heat to that larger surface area. Distilled water just happens to be the best heat carrying liquid out there.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmidd12;13646832*
> How do you figure less heat is being pumped into the room on air? Air coolers jobs are to move the heat away from the CPU, the case fans are tasked (those in exhaust setup) with moving heat out of the case. Therefore exhausting the hot air from the CPU into the room.
> 
> Let's say 45C is being pumped into the room through the fins of an air cooled heatsink (which is what mine was around on the DK while gaming), well with watercooling it lowers the temperature of the CPU to 34C (still gaming which is the 11C of drop being run through the loop. As long as your ambient is above 11C you won't notice any additional heat in the room as it balances it out.
> 
> Maybe my setup is a freak of nature but I have noticed my room isn't a sauna on water cooling.
> 
> Not trying to piss anyone off, just noting my observations.


I don't even want to explain this to you, so in turn, you are going to explain something to me.
where the hell is all this extra heat going if it isn't going into the room, according to your theory.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmidd12;13646832*
> How do you figure less heat is being pumped into the room on air? Air coolers jobs are to move the heat away from the CPU, the case fans are tasked (those in exhaust setup) with moving heat out of the case. Therefore exhausting the hot air from the CPU into the room.
> 
> Let's say 45C is being pumped into the room through the fins of an air cooled heatsink (which is what mine was around on the DK while gaming), well with watercooling it lowers the temperature of the CPU to 34C (still gaming which is the 11C of drop being run through the loop. As long as your ambient is above 11C you won't notice any additional heat in the room as it balances it out.
> 
> Maybe my setup is a freak of nature but I have noticed my room isn't a sauna on water cooling.
> 
> Not trying to piss anyone off, just noting my observations.


I'm not explaining it very well, and for that i apologise. But if there is less heat in the CPU then it has to be in the room. You can't destroy energy, it all has to be transferred to one place if it's not in the next.

I'm sure someone can explain it better than me.


----------



## ajmidd12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13647085*
> I don't even want to explain this to you, so in turn, you are going to explain something to me.
> where the hell is all this extra heat going if it isn't going into the room, according to your theory.


Back into the room. I wasn't debating that.

What I didn't agree with in your rather rude comment was your logic that 45C from a CPU cooler fins (which run hot) into a room, somehow makes the room cooler than exhausting 30C from a water cooling rad.

Water conducts heat better than air that's a known fact. By the time the water reaches the rad (even though it is a short distance) it has cooled enough to produce little additional heat out of the rad, I don't know about your tubes but both my intake and outtake are cool, the outtake being slightly warmer than the intake line of the CPU.

Whereas the copper tubes of the CPU cooler got quite warm to the touch, where is that heat supposed to go?

Little food for thought http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/phy00/phy00690.htm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13647176*
> I'm not explaining it very well, and for that i apologise. But if there is less heat in the CPU then it has to be in the room. You can't destroy energy, it all has to be transferred to one place if it's not in the next.
> 
> I'm sure someone can explain it better than me.


I see your point. Water or coolant in the loop is retaining that energy and cooling it at the same time causing it to release only a portion of the heat through the rad when it meets with the fans.

Guys, I'm just going by what I am observing in my case, I kept all the variables the same included closing the door of the room, the thermostat stayed the same, the computer ran the same amount of time, even the fans on the rad are at the same speed as they were on the CPU DK cooler. I have noticed that it isn't a sauna when I walk into the room compared to when I would go into it on while it was on air.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> By the time the water reaches the rad (even though it is a short distance) it has cooled enough to produce little additional heat out of the rad


That's true. The water has cooled before it gets to the rad. That heat is now in the room.


----------



## ajmidd12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13647416*
> That's true. The water has cooled before it gets to the rad. That heat is now in the room.


Yes, but my point was that it gets released as smaller intervals than one lump continuous blast furnace of air coming out the back of the exhaust 120mm.

Smaller heat dissipation allows for heat transfer through windows, doors, into furniture, etc. Therefore giving off the cooler ambient feel.

The air cooler is able to overcome the ratio of which the items I listed above can absorb heat or transfer it through causing the room to get warmer.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13646346*
> When I subbed the stock fans in PUSH on my RS360 for some HS YL's in PUSH/PULL, I believe I saw a 3-6*C drop but I honestly can't remember right now. But there was a drop... certainly. With those 2150's, as soon as they are shipped out we will know the end results once you guys start installing them.


Awesome!







. I am looking forward to getting these.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13647635*
> Awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am looking forward to getting these.


on my rs360 and ek fatyy 240 rad i used med yates and they work perfectly...

and till now still using it....and im goin to add another 360 rad and i know it will be overkill..but planing to use yates again....

and not to mention performace and price on 1 fan =)


----------



## Boyboyd

I was surprised by how well built and heavy Gentle Typhoons are made. Has anyone else noticed how long they take to stop spinning after the power goes off? It's a long time, might time it one day if i'm really bored.


----------



## Jobotoo

I'm pretty happy with current temps, which are around 30 idle and 39 while playing games. So it's going to be great with the new fans.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13647825*
> I was surprised by how well built and heavy Gentle Typhoons are made. Has anyone else noticed how long they take to stop spinning after the power goes off? It's a long time, might time it one day if i'm really bored.


That's what you get with ball bearings and a weighted/balanced fan blade.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13647971*
> That's what you get with ball bearings and a weighted/balanced fan blade.


Apparently you get what you pay for. I'm impressed.


----------



## ajmidd12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13647825*
> I was surprised by how well built and heavy Gentle Typhoons are made. Has anyone else noticed how long they take to stop spinning after the power goes off? It's a long time, might time it one day if i'm really bored.


Lol do it!! They are great fans


----------



## ht_addict

I finally put the finishing touches to my setup, connecting my GPU's(Gigabyte 6850's) to the loop and adding an extra XSPC RX120 Rad at the back. Here is a pic. Just need to work on my wire management to clean it up. On thing that scares me is the bowing I'm getting on my videocards from the weight of the GPU block.


----------



## Jobotoo

I was worried about that too, but was assured that if is screwed on right to the case, there should not be any issue. So far it has been fine.

You could also use spacers if you really wanted too.


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajmidd12;13647490*
> Yes, but my point was that it gets released as smaller intervals than one lump continuous blast furnace of air coming out the back of the exhaust 120mm.
> 
> Smaller heat dissipation allows for heat transfer through windows, doors, into furniture, etc. Therefore giving off the cooler ambient feel.
> 
> The air cooler is able to overcome the ratio of which the items I listed above can absorb heat or transfer it through causing the room to get warmer.


I hate to chime in on this but my room because a sauna now that I have water cooling. The Loop is pulling of way more heat than my Noctua or even H70 could and that air is being pumped into my room. As my Rad sits on top of my case, if I put the fans in a Pull position you can feel the heat that is given off. Only way my room stays cooler is if I leave the window open next to the computer. If I run Furmark burn in test on my Dual 6850's they come close to 50oC. With the stock cooling they were hit mid 90's. This heat has to go somewhere and that is my room.


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;13648632*
> I hate to chime in on this but my room because a sauna now that I have water cooling. The Loop is pulling of way more heat than my Noctua or even H70 could and that air is being pumped into my room. As my Rad sits on top of my case, if I put the fans in a Pull position you can feel the heat that is given off. Only way my room stays cooler is if I leave the window open next to the computer. If I run Furmark burn in test on my Dual 6850's they come close to 50oC. With the stock cooling they were hit mid 90's. This heat has to go somewhere and that is my room.


lol if you open your window your room stays cooler. if i were to open my window my room would probably reach 90F (35C).


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;13648888*
> lol if you open your window your room stays cooler. if i were to open my window my room would probably reach 90F (35C).


Same here. I need to put my computer next to an AC vent, LOL


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13649525*
> Same here. I need to put my computer next to an AC vent, LOL


florida sucks.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Pfffft-lorida?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13649761*
> Pfffft-lorida?


Look who's talking....


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Look who's talking....


Hehehehe... we have been lucky this past week. It's been raining all the time so temps have remained fairly cool mainly in the low and up to the mid 80's*F (27-29*C for you non-fahrenheit people). I remember last summer was hot-hot-hot. At least my rig is on the desk with the rear exhaust facing the window. When I closed the window at night and turned the A/C on, that corner of my work area would get hot real fast. That was before the water cooling. I will see how it really goes this year.

You guys in Florida just have way too much humidity.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Same here. I need to put my computer next to an AC vent, LOL


I have my external rad mounted next to a window, and it makes a big difference.


----------



## Kahbrohn

I am seriously thinking about taking the rad out of the case. A good XSPC stand, some extra tubing... exchange the YL HS fans for something else (AP-15's maybe) and I should see a lowering of temps on the CPU. Then, slap some exhaust fans in the area that the rad is in and case temps should come down a bit. Maybe use the swapped out YL's for this. I am expecting my Accelero EXTREME Plus GPU cooler any moment soon so GPU is taken care of.

Just need to figure out the "logistics" of the external rad fan wiring and such.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13653490*
> Hehehehe... we have been lucky this past week. It's been raining all the time so temps have remained fairly cool mainly in the low and up to the mid 80's*F (27-29*C for you non-fahrenheit people). I remember last summer was hot-hot-hot. At least my rig is on the desk with the rear exhaust facing the window. When I closed the window at night and turned the A/C on, that corner of my work area would get hot real fast. That was before the water cooling. I will see how it really goes this year.
> 
> You guys in Florida just have way too much humidity.


I figured it would be rainy there now. Typical PR summer. Gotta get down there soon. Its been a while.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13653619*
> I am seriously thinking about taking the rad out of the case. A good XSPC stand, some extra tubing... exchange the YL HS fans for something else (AP-15's maybe) and I should see a lowering of temps on the CPU. Then, slap some exhaust fans in the area that the rad is in and case temps should come down a bit. Maybe use the swapped out YL's for this. I am expecting my Accelero EXTREME Plus GPU cooler any moment soon so GPU is taken care of.
> 
> Just need to figure out the "logistics" of the external rad fan wiring and such.


Why would you take the rad out? You have high case temps?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13653819*
> Why would you take the rad out? You have high case temps?


Mid/high 40's when gaming. Seen low 50's on hotter days. High 30's, low 40's when doing normal browsing and stuff. Expecting all those to go up a bit during the hotter summer days coming around the corner.

When the new GPU cooler comes (wife won't let me but your card's dag nabit!), I believe it will cool the GPU but blow that hot air into the case itself and obviously raising the case temp a bit. That in turn will be sucked in by the rad fans when cooling the CPU.

To be honest, not even sure if those temps are good or not or if my assumptions are correct. Common sense say's yes...


----------



## Necrodox

I'm trying to mount my RX360 radiator in the back of my HAF-X case, I want to get the fans running in a push/pull configuration.

I already know how I'm going to mount it all, the problem is that I don't know where I can find a screw that is long enough. I'll need a 10-12inch screw, roughly.

I also need a screw sleeve (black if possible), anyone have an idea in regards to where I can find a screw like this? Been searching online but having some trouble finding the screw.


----------



## AMOCO

Try your local hardware store,Like Home Depot,Lowes,Ace, & True Value.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;13655921*
> I'm trying to mount my RX360 radiator in the back of my HAF-X case, I want to get the fans running in a push/pull configuration.
> 
> I already know how I'm going to mount it all, the problem is that I don't know where I can find a screw that is long enough. I'll need a 10-12inch screw, roughly.
> 
> I also need a screw sleeve (black if possible), anyone have an idea in regards to where I can find a screw like this? Been searching online but having some trouble finding the screw.


A 10-12 inch screw?? Not sure about that, but you can get hardware from McMaster-Carr online.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;13655921*
> I'll need a 10-12inch screw, roughly.


Not going to doubt you know what you are doing... but... what are you planning on doing??? 10-12" screw sounds awfully long and even unstable!


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13653619*
> I am seriously thinking about taking the rad out of the case. A good XSPC stand, some extra tubing... exchange the YL HS fans for something else (AP-15's maybe) and I should see a lowering of temps on the CPU. Then, slap some exhaust fans in the area that the rad is in and case temps should come down a bit. Maybe use the swapped out YL's for this. I am expecting my Accelero EXTREME Plus GPU cooler any moment soon so GPU is taken care of.
> 
> Just need to figure out the "logistics" of the external rad fan wiring and such.


The Gentle Typhoon 2150 Group Buy is almost over, so you may want to take advantage of it before it is too late. They are $9 for the barebones model. These are a bit faster than the AP-15's, so with a controller you can dial them down, or up. And the price seems awesome to me.


Gentle Typhoon 2150 Group Buy


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13657168*
> The Gentle Typhoon 2150 Group Buy is almost over, so you may want to take advantage of it before it is too late. They are $9 for the barebones model. These are a bit faster than the AP-15's, so with a controller you can dial them down, or up. And the price seems awesome to me.
> 
> 
> Gentle Typhoon 2150 Group Buy


Yeah, I know... thanks for the reminder.


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13657010*
> Not going to doubt you know what you are doing... but... what are you planning on doing??? 10-12" screw sounds awfully long and even unstable!


He probably means 10-12cm. Foot long screws are for wobbly buildings to tighten the joints


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrolock;13657376*
> He probably means 10-12cm. Foot long screws are for wobbly buildings to tighten the joints


Well, if they make it, McMaster-Carr is your best best. I got my button head 6/32 1.5 inch long screws to mount my GT fans to my XSPC rad through my M8 case chassis. I also got JIS metric nut and bolts to mount the GT fans also to my M8 case. Ordered Friday, got them on Monday. But that's Georgia to Florida.


----------



## kdb424

Just bought the RS240 kit and will be installing it with a CPU only loop. Bought replacement tubing too as I prefer blue in this case. Pics up when I install it (sending the mobo in for RMA today, only got 15 days out of it)


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrolock;13657376*
> He probably means 10-12cm. Foot long screws are for wobbly buildings to tighten the joints


That would make more sense but it's still 4-4.75". Unless he's breaking out the Dremmel... I am INTRIGUED at what he plans! And I say this in all honesty.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;13655921*
> I'm trying to mount my RX360 radiator in the back of my HAF-X case, I want to get the fans running in a push/pull configuration.
> 
> I already know how I'm going to mount it all, the problem is that I don't know where I can find a screw that is long enough. I'll need a 10-12inch screw, roughly.
> 
> I also need a screw sleeve (black if possible), anyone have an idea in regards to where I can find a screw like this? Been searching online but having some trouble finding the screw.


What the heck are you talking about?







I have my RX360 rad mounted to the back of my case and angled about 55 degrees to the right. I used two L shaped brackets that I bent a bit beyond 45 degrees with two screws that are about 1/4 of an inch long. By the way, my case is a HAF 922 and temps are just great. I have 6 fans on the rad for a push pull configuration with all wires bundled together and running into the back behind the MB (see attached pic)


----------



## pdiomidis

hello guys! i bought this kit! will 360rs kit plus and 140mm radiator that i will add in the back of the hafx can cool i7 2600k and gtx 570 good?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pdiomidis*


hello guys! i bought this kit! will 360rs kit plus and 140mm radiator that i will add in the back of the hafx can cool i7 2600k and gtx 570 good?


That should be fine


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13657263*
> Yeah, I know... thanks for the reminder.


Anytime.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdiomidis;13659979*
> hello guys! i bought this kit! will 360rs kit plus and 140mm radiator that i will add in the back of the hafx can cool i7 2600k and gtx 570 good?


It would probably be fine just with one RAD, so two should give you better temps. I have one RX260 RAD and my temps are around 30C idle and 38C while playing games. (Ambient at around 22C)


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;13658466*
> What the heck are you talking about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my RX360 rad mounted to the back of my case and angled about 55 degrees to the right. I used two L shaped brackets that I bent a bit beyond 45 degrees with two screws that are about 1/4 of an inch long. By the way, my case is a HAF 922 and temps are just great. I have 6 fans on the rad for a push pull configuration with all wires bundled together and running into the back behind the MB (see attached pic)


I never thought of setting it up that way, but I like it! If it's not too much of a hassle, can you take a few more pics of that setup and post them? I think I may do this with my extra RAD.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;13655921*
> I'm trying to mount my RX360 radiator in the back of my HAF-X case, I want to get the fans running in a push/pull configuration.
> 
> I already know how I'm going to mount it all, the problem is that I don't know where I can find a screw that is long enough. I'll need a 10-12inch screw, roughly.
> 
> I also need a screw sleeve (black if possible), anyone have an idea in regards to where I can find a screw like this? Been searching online but having some trouble finding the screw.


How about using threaded rod instead of screws? Easier to locate and a whole lot cheaper. You could use a "acorn" nut if looks is an issue.


----------



## KillerMike84

I just got my Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 I'm going setup watercooling Rasa 750 RS240+RS120 Rad for cold down my CPU maybe later on do GPU water block when I get more money this what i will be using in my setup

*Universal Radiator 5.25" Bay Mounting Brackets - Black
*XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit
*Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Blue
*PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft pack)
*Swiftech 1/2" Aluminum Remote Fill-Port Fitting - Black (1/2"FPF-AL)
*XSPC RS120 120mm Radiator

















































I need some help on this build if any info on this Case will greatful to me thanks guys


----------



## nykeiscool

Been browsing this thread all day thought my breaks of work and what not... A lot of nice looking loopz i've. Thinking of biting the bullet on one this month.. not a big fan of the bay reservoir rather have one of those tube ones hanging in my case... but my question is from your experiences do you think the 360 will be enough for me to hit 5ghz on my 2600k assuming im getting 5.0 on 1.4ish volts with safe temps when i get her this month?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13673374*
> Been browsing this thread all day thought my breaks of work and what not... A lot of nice looking loopz i've. Thinking of biting the bullet on one this month.. not a big fan of the bay reservoir rather have one of those tube ones hanging in my case... but my question is from your experiences do you think the 360 will be enough for me to hit 5ghz on my 2600k assuming im getting 5.0 on 1.4ish volts with safe temps when i get her this month?


I7 2600K will run fine. They don't run as hot as the older cpus.


----------



## Electric

Alright, so I read this from the FAQ: http://www.overclock.net/12328570-post3835.htm

But I still have a question... If I were to get the RX360 kit over the RS240, would my CPU temps be a lot lower? I only plan on cooling my CPU...

(I know nothing about water cooling, I've just been wondering about this kit.)


----------



## ASSAD101

Add me








This is my first rig ever but i have done alot of upgrades and been through alot of coolers and i absolutely love this kit, especially for the price. I threw in a Black ice GT240 though :3


----------



## Blue Destroyer

gotta say, still loving my xspc rasa kit. running dead silent, and cool and even after 45+ days of just distilled water(no bio drops or kill coil or silver) water is still perfectly clean.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerMike84;13671631*
> I just got my Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 I'm going setup watercooling Rasa 750 RS240+RS120 Rad for cold down my CPU maybe later on do GPU water block when I get more money this what i will be using in my setup
> 
> *Universal Radiator 5.25" Bay Mounting Brackets - Black
> *XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit
> *Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Blue
> *PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft pack)
> *Swiftech 1/2" Aluminum Remote Fill-Port Fitting - Black (1/2"FPF-AL)
> *XSPC RS120 120mm Radiator
> 
> I need some help on this build if any info on this Case will greatful to me thanks guys


You don't need to water cool that gts 450, you'll see little to no gains. Water cooling comes handy for mid to highend cards. Save your money. Also, you won't see any gains adding that 120mm. Stick with the RS240 to cool down the cpu. If you plan to get another card (mid to highend range) then get the rs360/rx360 or add the rs120 to the rs240.


----------



## KillerMike84

The GPU is not my problem I know that I'm get higher GPU like 570 or 580 but yet I need help on my case were can i put the setup for the RS240 rad + RS120 rad does anyone have this case DYI link anyone please?


----------



## terence52

Hi guys,
will be back soon. ordered another x2o 750 + rx120 + another 4x xspc compressions. but this time. made my friend responsible should the pump fail and he will rma it


----------



## ht_addict

Any one have their RX240 in a Push/Pull setup going from a Push or Pull only? Did you notice a difference? Is the fans blowing into the case or out off? Thanks


----------



## Electric

Can someone please answer my initial question?

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-get-980x.html


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Electric*


Can someone please answer my initial question?

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-get-980x.html


Yes, better temps with RX360.

Yes, you would be fine with the RS240.

Did that answer your question?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Any one have their RX240 in a Push/Pull setup going from a Push or Pull only? Did you notice a difference? Is the fans blowing into the case or out off? Thanks


In general you will notice a difference going PUSH/PULL versus just one or the other.

Also, in general, you want to exhaust the the air from the case. Especially if you are putting the RAD at the top of the case.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Any one have their RX240 in a Push/Pull setup going from a Push or Pull only? Did you notice a difference? Is the fans blowing into the case or out off? Thanks


I have my RX240 on the bootom of my case and it is pulling the air in. I have another rad (240 but not RX240 due to limited space) at the top of my case and this one is pulling the air out.

Hope this will help.


----------



## pnkspdr

Hey in case nobody already added it, I wanted to provide an adress for germans where they can buy the Rasa kits: aquatuning.de


----------



## trackready

Alright I know this isn't ideal but I want to know if its worth it. I am installing a rasa240 kit in the roof of my 600t. As alot of you know the 600t is a very low roof for a midtower. The fans that come with the kit will go in between the top grill mesh and the roof like corsair designed them to do. This wont leave enough room to do a push set of fans inside the case due to hitting the ram and large Crosshair IV formula heatsink. I've done some measuring and it looks like the 12mm slim slipstreams would fit. I know these suck for rads, but it's either these or nothing for pusher fans. Think its even worth it?

Edit: After some remeasuring I am not even sure the 12mm will fit, but the question still stands. If I could fit them would they give any real benefit or should I just let the 2 top 120mm's pull air out? Its a cpu only loop w/ a 1090t running 4.0 - 4.2 ghz... Its just a abnormally hot chip.


----------



## nykeiscool

Anybody have any luck finding some UV orange tubing for their kit? Trying to stay with stock barbs Seems that XSPC makes this but its just so hard to stumble upon. Anybody have A good U.S site


----------



## kdb424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13683417*
> In general you will notice a difference going PUSH/PULL versus just one or the other.
> 
> Also, in general, you want to exhaust the the air from the case. Especially if you are putting the RAD at the top of the case.


I'm putting my new kit in the front of my case. Wouldn't pulling cold air in get better temps? If not, curious why this is. Thanks again!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13688000*
> Anybody have any luck finding some UV orange tubing for their kit? Trying to stay with stock barbs Seems that XSPC makes this but its just so hard to stumble upon. Anybody have A good U.S site


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8667/ex-tub-459/25_Meter_8_feet_Feser_Tube_Active_UV_Hose_-_Retail_Packed_-_38_ID_12OD_Anti-Kink_Tubing_-_UV_Orange.html?tl=g30c99&id=QUu9SqiH&mv_pc=3165
They have more sizes too I believe. Hope that helps.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdb424;13688025*
> I'm putting my new kit in the front of my case. Wouldn't pulling cold air in get better temps? If not, curious why this is. Thanks again!
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8667/ex-tub-459/25_Meter_8_feet_Feser_Tube_Active_UV_Hose_-_Retail_Packed_-_38_ID_12OD_Anti-Kink_Tubing_-_UV_Orange.html?tl=g30c99&id=QUu9SqiH&mv_pc=3165
> They have more sizes too I believe. Hope that helps.


With that setup, you're taking the heat removed and dumping it back into the case.


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdb424;13688025*
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8667/ex-tub-459/25_Meter_8_feet_Feser_Tube_Active_UV_Hose_-_Retail_Packed_-_38_ID_12OD_Anti-Kink_Tubing_-_UV_Orange.html?tl=g30c99&id=QUu9SqiH&mv_pc=3165
> They have more sizes too I believe. Hope that helps.


Thanks but I was saying my post I was trying to stay with stock barbs meaning 7/16th or 1/2 unless 3/8 can fit on there nicely not what I'm looking for.... I'd imagine that won't work right?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13688000*
> Anybody have any luck finding some UV orange tubing for their kit? Trying to stay with stock barbs Seems that XSPC makes this but its just so hard to stumble upon. Anybody have A good U.S site


Masterkleer at FrozenCPU in 1/2" ID-3/4" OD. You may need new clamps for stock barbs. You're not going to get 3/8" ID tubing over a 1/2" barb.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12988/ex-tub-869/Masterkleer_PVC_Tubing_12_ID_34_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Orange.html?tl=g30c99

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c289/s723/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_Accessories-Reusable_Clamps_-_34_OD-Page1.html


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13690503*
> Masterkleer at FrozenCPU in 1/2" ID-3/4" OD. You may need new clamps for stock barbs. Ypu're not going to get 3/8" ID tubing over a 1/2" barb.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12988/ex-tub-869/Masterkleer_PVC_Tubing_12_ID_34_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Orange.html?tl=g30c99
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c289/s723/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_Accessories-Reusable_Clamps_-_34_OD-Page1.html


Wow thanks! idk how you stumbled upon this, tried there 1/2 search filter myself no such luck.. they have a great selection of colors +Rep man great find! ... for me at least


----------



## kdb424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13689133*
> With that setup, you're taking the heat removed and dumping it back into the case.


Wow, I'm a moron at times... A RAD doesn't make heat disappear, it transfered it... It that case I'm gonna need to figure out how air is gettin in my case. Side and back I guess. (top of my antec 900 is out only and I'm not opening that.)

Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Shadow01505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerMike84;13671631*
> I just got my Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 I'm going setup watercooling Rasa 750 RS240+RS120 Rad for cold down my CPU maybe later on do GPU water block when I get more money this what i will be using in my setup
> 
> *Universal Radiator 5.25" Bay Mounting Brackets - Black
> *XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit
> *Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Blue
> *PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10ft pack)
> *Swiftech 1/2" Aluminum Remote Fill-Port Fitting - Black (1/2"FPF-AL)
> *XSPC RS120 120mm Radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need some help on this build if any info on this Case will greatful to me thanks guys


I got this same case. What I did want mount the rad on the back of the case. I left the 120mm fan on the inside I just used the long screws from the 240 kit came with to screw the inside fan to the rad on the outside. It sticks up over the top a few inches and that's good for the fan pushing air towards the 200mm fan. Its got some blockage there but its keeping my 2600k at 5GHZ and my superclocked gtx-580 at around 50C-65C playing Rift on max settings and around 30C idle with nothing running. I'm about to upgrade the fans and I think thats what my issue is.
I need a better setup though so I'm not saying mine is perfect by any means it just worked out the best is all...


----------



## Bdonedge

In theory if I need to move my case, do I have to worry about the water going everywhere with this kit and ruining hardware? Or if I need to drain the water out, how would i go about doing that?


----------



## Dissentience

Nope, it is a sealed loop. Just double check that the fill port cap is screwed in securely to be safe. I have turned my system on its side before with no issues.


----------



## Bdonedge

cool thanks for the fast reply. what about taking the water out of the loop to be able to do a replacement. How would one go about draining the water out safely?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge;13719475*
> cool thanks for the fast reply. what about taking the water out of the loop to be able to do a replacement. How would one go about draining the water out safely?


You can suck most of the water out with a turkey baster


----------



## Dissentience

I usually cut a tube off the barb with an x-acto while having some sort of receptacle underneath


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissentience;13719512*
> I usually cut a tube off the barb with an x-acto while having some sort of receptacle underneath


can you just use like a hair dryer to warm it up and loosen it, salvaging the tubing?


----------



## Dissentience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;13719630*
> can you just use like a hair dryer to warm it up and loosen it, salvaging the tubing?


Never tried that. You can always just cut the little bit off the tubing that you sliced


----------



## KillerMike84

Thank u for the Help I know about that setup I was looking around inside of the computer but I return the Case back it was not good for me but thanks again for the Help I got CoolerMaster 690 II better for my choose......


----------



## Bdonedge

I'm so stuck on getting this or the new Corsair H100 for simplicity. Has anyone here had issues with the pump? If so, how is XSPC's RMA service/customer service? If the pump fails will your hardware fail too from overheating? thanks for comments


----------



## Chobbit

I finally got my CM692 case and am pretty impressed with the case. I got this case as I do plan on internal water cooling at some point and the Rasa is the kit I would like to use but I just have a few questions first.

I've removed the bottom 3 HDD cages (Only have 2 HDD) and currently can fit 2x120fans in the bottom with my PSU.
If I got an RX240 rad, would it fit in the bottom fine with a push and pull setup (probably 4x gentle typhoons 1400's, unless better fans can be sujested)?

Also would this single RX240 setup with the double slot bay/pump (that comes with the rasa kit) be enough to cool my two gtx 460's?

Thanks and hoping to join this club if I can sort out my requirements.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit;13722909*
> I finally got my CM692 case and am pretty impressed with the case. I got this case as I do plan on internal water cooling at some point and the Rasa is the kit I would like to use but I just have a few questions first.
> 
> I've removed the bottom 3 HDD cages (Only have 2 HDD) and currently can fit 2x120fans in the bottom with my PSU.
> If I got an RX240 rad, would it fit in the bottom fine with a push and pull setup (probably 4x gentle typhoons 1400's, unless better fans can be sujested)?
> 
> Also would this single RX240 setup with the double slot bay/pump (that comes with the rasa kit) be enough to cool my two gtx 460's?
> 
> Thanks and hoping to join this club if I can sort out my requirements.


It would be enough to cool 2 460s, so long as you don't add your CPU in to it too.


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13722929*
> It would be enough to cool 2 460s, so long as you don't add your CPU in to it too.


Thanks Rep+, Nah I'm happy with my air cooler for CPU.

Does anyone in the club already have the RX240 down the bottom with a push and pull that can confirm it would fit?


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge;13722260*
> I'm so stuck on getting this or the new Corsair H100 for simplicity. Has anyone here had issues with the pump? If so, how is XSPC's RMA service/customer service? If the pump fails will your hardware fail too from overheating? thanks for comments


xspc kits will give you temps almost as good as a complete custom water loop whereas self contained liquid coolers like corsair's H series will perform like a high-end air cooler (or so i have read). i'm not familiar with the newer corsair coolers like the h100 though, but i know that's true of the h50/70.

if you're going for simplicity, then go with corsair obviously. watercooling isn't something to dive into unknowingly because there is always a risk. corsair replaces all damaged parts if their liquid cooling products were to leak, which is rare.

as long as you take your time and read up, you'll be okay with an xspc kit.

some people here have had problems with the pumps. not so much as they were DOA or died, but that they were loud (to the point where it was obvious something was wrong with it) and a replacement pump fixed that.

from what i've read, you just email xspc and they send you a new one. not too sure how the process works though.


----------



## Havoknova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;13724453*
> xspc kits will give you temps almost as good as a complete custom water loop whereas self contained liquid coolers like corsair's H series will perform like a high-end air cooler (or so i have read). i'm not familiar with the newer corsair coolers like the h100 though, but i know that's true of the h50/70.
> 
> if you're going for simplicity, then go with corsair obviously. watercooling isn't something to dive into unknowingly because there is always a risk. corsair replaces all damaged parts if their liquid cooling products were to leak, which is rare.
> 
> as long as you take your time and read up, you'll be okay with an xspc kit.
> 
> some people here have had problems with the pumps. not so much as they were DOA or died, but that they were loud (to the point where it was obvious something was wrong with it) and a replacement pump fixed that.
> 
> from what i've read, you just email xspc and they send you a new one. not too sure how the process works though.


Email xspc with a raw video of ur noisy pump and if it pass their rma standards (if its like supa niosy pump)
And they will send u a replacement


----------



## beetlespin

Just order XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit. now that wait.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beetlespin;13737589*
> Just order XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit. now that wait.


Great kit! I've been running the RX360 for a couple months and I REALLY like it and the temps, and the silence, . . .


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge;13722260*
> I'm so stuck on getting this or the new Corsair H100 for simplicity. Has anyone here had issues with the pump? If so, how is XSPC's RMA service/customer service? If the pump fails will your hardware fail too from overheating? thanks for comments


For simplicity the H100 for sure. I have not seen any reviews yet on the cooler, but my first guess, based on the H50/70 is that the XSPC RASA kit will give yo better temps, and you can add GPU(s) to the loop if you want also.

I think it comes down to what you want.

Edit: I forgot to add that from reading this thread it seems like XSPC is GREAT with RMAs. I have not had an issue with my pump, so never needed to deal with them. But others have gotten a new enclosure sent to them right away.


----------



## Khalam

hey guys, what are your temps like on 2600k chips? im using antec kuhler 920 atm and my temps max at 83-85c with a 5.3ghz oc with ht on. Ive managed to save up around 400 euro and wanted to go for rasa rx360 but im wondering will I see a big difference. Btw what set would you recommend for that kind of money? im looking to cool the CPU and in a month or two when I save up a bit more get water blocks for my 2x6990.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;13747070*
> hey guys, what are your temps like on 2600k chips? im using antec kuhler 920 atm and my temps max at 83-85c with a 5.3ghz oc with ht on. Ive managed to save up around 400 euro and wanted to go for rasa rx360 but im wondering will I see a big difference. Btw what set would you recommend for that kind of money? im looking to cool the CPU and in a month or two when I save up a bit more get water blocks for my 2x6990.


What the hell kind of voltage are you using for 5.3 with HT on? :0

You shouldn't notice a huge difference vs a closed loop 'kit'. The temp depends on what voltage you use though.


----------



## Khalam

this bastard needs 1.6 to do 5.3 you got a nice chip there bro, best I had was a 2500k that did 5588mhz at 1.55V. Im trying to find a golden chip that will do 5.5+ with ht, ive went through 12x2600ks till date so is there really any point for getting the Rasa 750 RX360 kit in my case? or just stick to the kuhler? Im gone be honest im a total noob if it goes for water cooling any chance some one could make a complete build for me in the price range of 350-400 pounds? I live in ireland but im sure I could order from the uk.


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;13747571*
> this bastard needs 1.6 to do 5.3 you got a nice chip there bro, best I had was a 2500k that did 5588mhz at 1.55V. Im trying to find a golden chip that will do 5.5+ with ht, ive went through 12x2600ks till date so is there really any point for getting the Rasa 750 RX360 kit in my case? or just stick to the kuhler? Im gone be honest im a total noob if it goes for water cooling any chance some one could make a complete build for me in the price range of 350-400 pounds? I live in ireland but im sure I could order from the uk.


Hey I know you from guru3d

With your budget, it's best you buy a custom water setup. Start a new thread and get help from the ocn experts.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13737674*
> For simplicity the H100 for sure. I have not seen any reviews yet on the cooler, but my first guess, based on the H50/70 is that the XSPC RASA kit will give yo better temps, and you can add GPU(s) to the loop if you want also.
> 
> I think it comes down to what you want.
> 
> Edit: I forgot to add that from reading this thread it seems like XSPC is GREAT with RMAs. I have not had an issue with my pump, so never needed to deal with them. But others have gotten a new enclosure sent to them right away.


I guess the issue is, the kit lets me mount the rad outside because the case that I have doesn't have holes to mount a rad inside, and I dont know how long the hoses are on the H100, being as I would have to mod my case it may not even reach the top of the case


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge;13748528*
> I guess the issue is, the kit lets me mount the rad outside because the case that I have doesn't have holes to mount a rad inside, and I dont know how long the hoses are on the H100, being as I would have to mod my case it may not even reach the top of the case


I just saw this cover on their website:
CLICKY

That should work. Or they have an array of covers here:
CLICKY

Maybe that would allow you to mount a RAD on top, internally.

But mounting it externally is not a bad option.


----------



## The Red Dojo

May as well throw my name into the mix









240 kit


----------



## beetlespin

Does anyone know if there is enough room for XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit to be mount on inside top of Cooler Master Computer Case RC-692-KKN2 or that out side of the case? If not can someone recommend a case around $100.00 give or take 20 bucks that can support inside mount.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13749844*
> I just saw this cover on their website:
> CLICKY
> 
> That should work. Or they have an array of covers here:
> CLICKY
> 
> Maybe that would allow you to mount a RAD on top, internally.
> 
> But mounting it externally is not a bad option.


Hm the issue is the only one guaranteed to fit the A70F is the one with no holes (go figure..), to be honest I think the rad out of the back of the case looks really awesome, I was just referring to the H100 being mounted in the inside. I think I would like to go water cooling, and I'd really like this kit, however this is my concern:

I plan on upgrading CPU's soon, (bulldozer) will I need a new CPU block to fit that socket? and I want to watercool my GPU (6970) but I plan on getting a second 6970 in the very near future. Won't I need a stronger pump for that? Are all XPSC pumps pretty high quality? Because I know this one is a res and a pump in one thing


----------



## trackready

Well how's it look? Just finished this yesterday in my 600t


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trackready;13758063*
> Well how's it look? Just finished this yesterday in my 600t


Very clean looking. I like how you positioned the rad to achieve minimal use of tubing. And the color coordination is working out very nively. Like that black tubing.


----------



## Annex

I figured I'd post this here since my entire loop will basically be XSPC based. I'm putting an rx120 rad in the bottom of my 800d..

I'd like to know what the barb equivalent of this fitting would be:


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trackready;13758063*
> Well how's it look? Just finished this yesterday in my 600t


Yeah this looks real clean man love the black on black.. makes me want to consider going black tubing on my kit instead of blue for my 700D


----------



## Annex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;13766364*
> I figured I'd post this here since my entire loop will basically be XSPC based. I'm putting an rx120 rad in the bottom of my 800d..
> 
> I'd like to know what the barb equivalent of this fitting would be:
> 
> http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/9497/018joy.jpg


Also, I'm going to be doing a total of 3 blocks and 3 rads on the pump, so some one feel free to chime in if they think that's too much before I place the order in a couple weeks.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;13767255*
> Also, I'm going to be doing a total of 3 blocks and 3 rads on the pump, so some one feel free to chime in if they think that's too much before I place the order in a couple weeks.


On one XSPC pump? If so, then I think it "may" be a bit too much for that pump. Someone will be chiming in shortly to confirm this for us.


----------



## alienware

hi guys...just wanted to do a quick inquiry. I recently bought the xspc rasa rx 360 kit, problem is that there isnt any coolant with the kit and me being in pakistan, we dont have aftermarket coolants like feser, primochill or even PT Nuke. I was recommended to use pure distilled water with this kit. Any other additive you guys recommend that i add with the distilled water to keep the loop healthy and clean? Thanks


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienware;13769456*
> hi guys...just wanted to do a quick inquiry. I recently bought the xspc rasa rx 360 kit, problem is that there isnt any coolant with the kit and me being in pakistan, we dont have aftermarket coolants like feser, primochill or even PT Nuke. I was recommended to use pure distilled water with this kit. Any other additive you guys recommend that i add with the distilled water to keep the loop healthy and clean? Thanks


All you need for coolant is Distilled Water and a Kill Coil.


----------



## Boyboyd

Yep.

You need to use a biocide or 99.999% silver to stop organic growth. *If* you can get your hands on Copper Sulfate that will work in the right concentration too.


----------



## alienware

thanks amoco and boyboyd. Appreciate this help...btw some1 said i can also put a couple of drops of anti corrosion car coolant in the loop as well along with distilled water. Would that be of any help?


----------



## Boyboyd

I think anti-freeze will also work, and that car coolant has anti freeze in it.

Edit: It depends on the anti-freeze apparently. Try get the toxic one.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienware;13769456*
> hi guys...just wanted to do a quick inquiry. I recently bought the xspc rasa rx 360 kit, problem is that there isnt any coolant with the kit and me being in pakistan, we dont have aftermarket coolants like feser, primochill or even PT Nuke. I was recommended to use pure distilled water with this kit. Any other additive you guys recommend that i add with the distilled water to keep the loop healthy and clean? Thanks


Distilled water plus PT-Nuke (biocide) or Silver kill coils or both.

There have been reports that coolants could "gunk" up your loop. I have personally never used it but I have seen pictures of some water blocks that have been gunked up over time.


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


On one XSPC pump? If so, then I think it "may" be a bit too much for that pump. Someone will be chiming in shortly to confirm this for us.


I've asked about this before, and some members believe the pump is actually adequate for a couple rad and blocks, but I'm always looking for more confirmation.

I'm just torn on which GPU blocks to go with.. I can't find a single review of the MCW82 vs. the Universal rasa GPU block. Apparently swiftech increased the flow and thermal performance with this GPU block, but I'm not one to take company statements seriously.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


I've asked about this before, and some members believe the pump is actually adequate for a couple rad and blocks, but I'm always looking for more confirmation.

I'm just torn on which GPU blocks to go with.. I can't find a single review of the MCW82 vs. the Universal rasa GPU block. Apparently swiftech increased the flow and thermal performance with this GPU block, but I'm not one to take company statements seriously.


That's why I qualified my answer with "may"... I have the simplest of loops. IMO, the best thing WC offers is flexibility. Run your setup with what you intend to do. If all works out well, you will see good numbers. If you are not satisfied with the results, then you can go the next step and consider a more powerful pump.

Seems like the Swiftech MCW82 is new and therefore not many reviews are out yet. One thing though... Swiftech is one of the better WC'ing components company alongside EK. The closest thing I could find was a review on it's predecessor the MCW80 here. We'd have to assume (and I hate assuming) that the MCW82 would/should be better.


----------



## Retrolock

Anybody here used waterblocks for the vrm? Mine gets hot.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Retrolock*


Anybody here used waterblocks for the vrm? Mine gets hot.










For the GPU? I use a full water-block and it seems to run fairly cool.


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


For the GPU? I use a full water-block and it seems to run fairly cool.


No, for the vrm + heatsink fins around the cpu socket. When I had the D14 I never had this problem because the air cooled the heatsink fins. I probably need to make one of the exhaust fans intake as to cool the fins.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


I've asked about this before, and some members believe the pump is actually adequate for a couple rad and blocks, but I'm always looking for more confirmation.

I'm just torn on which GPU blocks to go with.. I can't find a single review of the MCW82 vs. the Universal rasa GPU block. Apparently swiftech increased the flow and thermal performance with this GPU block, but I'm not one to take company statements seriously.


It is my opinion, and just my opinion, that going with a FULL water-block you are going to be much happier. If you really want to go with a universal mount, by all means do, and you can use it on future GPUs, but to get the best cooling, a full block is going to do it better. with a universal block you are still going to have to figure out the cooing for the rest of the card.

Just my 2 cents.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Retrolock*


No, for the vrm + heatsink fins around the cpu socket. When I had the D14 I never had this problem because the air cooled the heatsink fins. I probably need to make one of the exhaust fans intake as to cool the fins.


In general Sandy Bridge runs fairly cool and you do not need "extra cooling" for the Motherboard, although you can. Mine seems to be fine.

You will want decent airflow no matter what, and if you have a fan in/out in that area, make sure it is in.


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


That's why I qualified my answer with "may"... I have the simplest of loops. IMO, the best thing WC offers is flexibility. Run your setup with what you intend to do. If all works out well, you will see good numbers. If you are not satisfied with the results, then you can go the next step and consider a more powerful pump.

Seems like the Swiftech MCW82 is new and therefore not many reviews are out yet. One thing though... Swiftech is one of the better WC'ing components company alongside EK. The closest thing I could find was a review on it's predecessor the MCW80 here. We'd have to assume (and I hate assuming) that the MCW82 would/should be better.


These are the graphs I've seen:



















Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


It is my opinion, and just my opinion, that going with a FULL water-block you are going to be much happier. If you really want to go with a universal mount, by all means do, and you can use it on future GPUs, but to get the best cooling, a full block is going to do it better. with a universal block you are still going to have to figure out the cooing for the rest of the card.

Just my 2 cents.


I've had to think this through carefully since I don't like regretting things, and I came to the conclusion that the superior pricing of universal blocks and their full compatibility with most products outweighs their cooling and aesthetics deficit.

I have two GT AP-15's aimed at my GPU's currently, and it's improved their abysmal thermal performance, so I expect them to do really well with the copper heatsinks since there will be direct airflow on them. I just have to make sure tubing doesn't interfere with the fans.


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


In general Sandy Bridge runs fairly cool and you do not need "extra cooling" for the Motherboard, although you can. Mine seems to be fine.

You will want decent airflow no matter what, and if you have a fan in/out in that area, make sure it is in.


Yeah, been having problems with the airflow really since I took my side panel away to be modded. Now the intake air from the front fan isn't being funneled right. Ambient temps during the daytime here is now reaching 35c and I hate reverting to stock clocks. I probably have no choice in the meantime.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


I've had to think this through carefully since I don't like regretting things, and I came to the conclusion that the superior pricing of universal blocks and their full compatibility with most products outweighs their cooling and aesthetics deficit.

I have two GT AP-15's aimed at my GPU's currently, and it's improved their abysmal thermal performance, so I expect them to do really well with the copper heatsinks since there will be direct airflow on them. I just have to make sure tubing doesn't interfere with the fans.



Fair enough. What works BEST for you is the best solution. GTs are awesome, so great choice there. It sounds like you have very good airflow. Once it is all put together I'd love to see pics and temps.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Retrolock*


Yeah, been having problems with the airflow really since I took my side panel away to be modded. Now the intake air from the front fan isn't being funneled right. Ambient temps during the daytime here is now reaching 35c and I hate reverting to stock clocks. I probably have no choice in the meantime.


It will probably get a bit hotter in a month.









If you have the space, you could just get any fan and point it at your case, if you have the side panel off. I didn't notice a big difference with my panel on or off, but I did have a fan pointed at it when it was off.

How are you checking the temperature on the VRMs?

What is your CPU/GPU temp? I'm at 22.5C ambient, and my GPU is at 31C.


----------



## userannon

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *trackready*   Well how's it look? Just finished this yesterday in my 600t

  
 This is exactly the setup I was looking at, black tubbing and all! I am about to purchase the Scythe Hard Disk Stabilizer,    http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Hard-Disk-Stabilizer-SCY-HDS2/dp/B000VWH31Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1307151705&sr=8-1-spell ... So I can move the single hard drive to the 5.25 bay to free the front fan.


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


Fair enough. What works BEST for you is the best solution. GTs are awesome, so great choice there. It sounds like you have very good airflow. Once it is all put together I'd love to see pics and temps.










I love GT's so much.. I'll have yates on my 120's for a while, but I'm definitely eventually going to get GT's on everything in my 800d when I find some at an affordable price.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


I love GT's so much.. I'll have yates on my 120's for a while, but I'm definitely eventually going to get GT's on everything in my 800d when I find some at an affordable price.


You just missed a great OCN GT-2150 group buy. They were going for $9 a fan! There is a sticky in the general "Cooling" forum. You may get lucky if someone backs out. I ordered 12


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*


Hm the issue is the only one guaranteed to fit the A70F is the one with no holes (go figure..), to be honest I think the rad out of the back of the case looks really awesome, I was just referring to the H100 being mounted in the inside. I think I would like to go water cooling, and I'd really like this kit, however this is my concern:

I plan on upgrading CPU's soon, (bulldozer) will I need a new CPU block to fit that socket? and I want to watercool my GPU (6970) but I plan on getting a second 6970 in the very near future. Won't I need a stronger pump for that? Are all XPSC pumps pretty high quality? Because I know this one is a res and a pump in one thing


I think the pump will be fine. You will love the temps and silence once you water-cool CPU and GPU. I'm not sure on the Bulldozer socket, so you might want to ask in the AMD forums, but I would think it will probably work, maybe with a different/modified backplate.

If you go with this kit I would recommend going with the RX360 kit and if feasible add a RX240 Rad. Both should fit very nicely in your case.

Edit: not sure why but I thought you had an 800D case. So not sure if they would both fit. But if you are going external, then no problem.


----------



## Busyhand

Hey all! I am new to this forum and thread, but I have been reading this thread specifically for some days now. Wow! it is very, very, very long.

I have ordered the Rasa XSPC RX360 with compression fittings, Koolance GPU block, blue UV tube, and KillCoil. I already have GT AP-15 fans that I will be swapping out and I will be installing all this inside a HAF X case with a 2600K and a GTX 480.

The order I will setup my kit will be as follows >

reservoir/pump > CPU > GPU > Radiator >reservoir/pump.

I prefer

reservoir/pump > radiator > CPU > GPU > reservoir/pump

I was informed that if heated water goes directly to the pump it can shorten pumps its lifespan dramatically especially if you have multiple blocks, and also it can increase case temps. Most pumps are rated to 60c max, but I am not sure how hot the water will get going into the reservoir if I choose to put the radiator before CPU and dump the heated water from my GPU to the reservoir/pump.

Can anyone shed some light on this issue for me please as I don't want my pump failing early due to me dumping heated water into the reservoir.


----------



## Jobotoo

I do not think you would have a problem setting up your loop the way you want. That is the way I have it setup.

A lot depends on your ambient temp, but with my ambient at 23C my temps are at 28-31C usually, and 36-40 while gaming. And that is with a decent overclock.

Edit: your setup is VERY similar to mine, and with your GTs, you may even get better temps than I. (I am not sure how much hotter a GTX 480 runs though.)


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


I do not think you would have a problem setting up your loop the way you want. That is the way I have it setup.

A lot depends on your ambient temp, but with my ambient at 23C my temps are at 28-31C usually, and 36-40 while gaming. And that is with a decent overclock.


What do you get running IBT or Prime95? I get around 80c (a lot of fluctuation between 80c and 70c).

Stock fans, cpu 4.2ghz 1.304 vcore, RX 360.

Yet my RAD feels cold to the touch and the exhaust doesn't feel that hot. Pump seems to be working fine.


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13773603*
> 
> Yet my RAD feels cold to the touch and the exhaust doesn't feel that hot. Pump seems to be working fine.


I get around 43C load with my setup. (~24-25C ambient) and my rad also never feels like it gets too hot on load. not cold to the touch or warm, but just like metal at room temp it feels like.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13773603*
> What do you get running IBT or Prime95? I get around 80c (a lot of fluctuation between 80c and 70c).
> 
> Stock fans, cpu 4.2ghz 1.304 vcore, RX 360.
> 
> Yet my RAD feels cold to the touch and the exhaust doesn't feel that hot. Pump seems to be working fine.


I don't remember. I'll run it in a few and let you know. How long do you want me to test?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13773791*
> I don't remember. I'll run it in a few and let you know. How long do you want me to test?


An hour would be ideal if you don't mind, I would appreciate it.

15 mins would give me a rough idea though.

My ambient is around 27c btw.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;13773742*
> I get around 43C load with my setup. (~24-25C ambient) and my rad also never feels like it gets too hot on load. not cold to the touch or warm, but just like metal at room temp it feels like.


Yeah, that's what I meant by cold to the touch. Not like ice or anything, but cool.


----------



## Jobotoo

I'll do it in a few.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13774389*
> I'll do it in a few.


Thanks!


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13773564*
> I do not think you would have a problem setting up your loop the way you want. That is the way I have it setup.
> 
> A lot depends on your ambient temp, but with my ambient at 23C my temps are at 28-31C usually, and 36-40 while gaming. And that is with a decent overclock.
> 
> Edit: your setup is VERY similar to mine, and with your GTs, you may even get better temps than I. (I am not sure how much hotter a GTX 480 runs though.)


These GTX 480s generate an enormous amount of heat and I will add a second one soon. I burned the flesh off my fingers once on the GTX 480 heatsink pipe








I just hope not cooling the water through the radiator first before going into the res/pump does not shorten the lifespan of the pump. what temp is the water in your reservoir?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13773603*
> What do you get running IBT or Prime95? I get around 80c (a lot of fluctuation between 80c and 70c).
> 
> Stock fans, cpu 4.2ghz 1.304 vcore, RX 360.
> 
> Yet my RAD feels cold to the touch and the exhaust doesn't feel that hot. Pump seems to be working fine.


You did make sure you removed the sticker off the cpu block right? A lot of people get high temps, Because they forget it on. Just to make sure


----------



## Jobotoo

Finishing up a new overclock. As soon as it's done, i will let you know on what temps I get on Prime.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13775102*
> You did make sure you removed the sticker off the cpu block right? A lot of people get high temps, Because they forget it on. Just to make sure


Yeah I did, I saw a couple of threads about that so I knew to watch out for it. It was also pretty visible on mine since there were a few air bubbles.

Did another run the results are min 64c max 76c, it's only been around 20mins, but I will continue to run it. This is at 4.2ghz and 1.304-1.312 vcore. Ambient is 27c. Do these results seem similar to others?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13775102*
> You did make sure you removed the sticker off the cpu block right? A lot of people get high temps, Because they forget it on. Just to make sure


Guilty as charged. lol


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Question:

With my spacing, if I go RS240 I think I'll have just enough room to do push pull. With the RX240, I would only be able to do a pull config. Thus is the 4-5 degrees lowered from pushpull on a smaller rad better than RX240 with thicker rad in pull config only?


----------



## Jobotoo

After a tad over 15 minutes I am getting these temps:

CPU:
Lowest core: 49C
Highest Core: 56C

GPU:
33C

I'll keep it running and see how much it changes after a full hour.

Running it at 4.6Ghz @ 1.36Vcore
Ambient is 23C


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13775798*
> After a tad over 15 minutes I am getting these temps:
> 
> CPU:
> Lowest core: 49C
> Highest Core: 56C
> 
> GPU:
> 33C
> 
> I'll keep it running and see how much it changes after a full hour.
> 
> Running it at 4.6Ghz @ 1.36Vcore
> Ambient is 23C


Hmm and that's with a gpu in the mix







, I know SB runs cooler, but I wouldn't expect it to be a difference of 20c. What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Blue Destroyer

LOL, so glad i bought my xspc kit instead of the EK kit i was looking at, EK nickel plating is garbage lol


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13775967*
> Hmm and that's with a gpu in the mix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I know SB runs cooler, but I wouldn't expect it to be a difference of 20c. What am I doing wrong?


What are you using? RX360 Kit?

Edit: I found the post saying you have RX360. Is that the complete kit?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13773603*
> What do you get running IBT or Prime95? I get around 80c (a lot of fluctuation between 80c and 70c).
> 
> Stock fans, cpu 4.2ghz 1.304 vcore, RX 360.
> 
> Yet my RAD feels cold to the touch and the exhaust doesn't feel that hot. Pump seems to be working fine.


Just CPU?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Destroyer;13776129*
> LOL, so glad i bought my xspc kit instead of the EK kit i was looking at, EK nickel plating is garbage lol


After what they posted, I'm thinking of getting rid of my GPU block . . .

Maybe I'll have to get a new GPU too.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13776172*
> What are you using? RX360 Kit?
> 
> Edit: I found the post saying you have RX360. Is that the complete kit?


Yup.

It's currently just CPU, I'm going to add on the GPU block when it arrives. I was hoping it would all come at the same time but aquatuning is being slow with my AquaComputer 470 block.


----------



## Blue Destroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13776221*
> After what they posted, I'm thinking of getting rid of my GPU block . . .
> 
> Maybe I'll have to get a new GPU too.


It is not the fact that they failed, every company has items that fail. its them blaming us on it. If every other nickel plated waterblock does not have these problems, and theres(EK) does, than they did something wrong. Its not a big deal, admit it, fix it and move on.


----------



## yakuzapuppy

Would an RS240 kit handle my rig if I also added a Razor for my 6950? I'd have 4 Enermax Magma's in push/pull. Or would the RX240 be better suited for that?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yakuzapuppy;13776293*
> Would an RS240 kit handle my rig if I also added a Razor for my 6950? I'd have 4 Enermax Magma's in push/pull. Or would the RX240 be better suited for that?


Between the RX and RS for a cpu + gpu loop, the RX would be better.


----------



## razr m3

The RS240 helped save my chip when a program fought with the BIOS and 1.7V accidentally got applied to it. 4.125GHz, 1.7V, 50C idle


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13775967*
> Hmm and that's with a gpu in the mix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I know SB runs cooler, but I wouldn't expect it to be a difference of 20c. What am I doing wrong?


I have the rs360 kit in a cpu only loop and never go over 65c at 4.2ghz @1.36volt load when i have it @1.392 volt i get up to 75c volt. And that's with my stock fans at 1000rpm pulling air in from the bottom of the rad. Did you flush your rad when you got it? If not you need to disassemble and clean the waterblock and rinse the rad.


----------



## Jobotoo

After a tad over 1 hour I am getting these temps:

CPU:
Lowest core: 55C
Highest Core: 63C

GPU:
35C

I'll keep it running a bit longer and see much it changes.

Running it at 4.6Ghz @ 1.36Vcore
Ambient is 24C (it went up a bit).

EDIT: I am running stock fans in PUSH out the top of my case. I will be setting up PUSH/PULL with GT-1250s when they come in.


----------



## Jobotoo

If it helps, here is a pic of my setup:


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13775434*
> Guilty as charged. lol


Lol, I almost did that.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Im alittle lost my i7 875K @4.329GHz 1.36v full load would hit 68c on the hottest core with RX360 + RX120 CPU only.
Now with my 6990 in the loop I only hit 63c on the hottest core








O well, I guess I have room to add my 6970 into the loop









*Before*









*Setup right now







*


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13776602*
> Im alittle lost my i7 875K @4.329GHz 1.36v full load would hit 68c on the hottest core with RX360 + RX120 CPU only.
> Now with my 6990 in the loop I only hit 63c on the hottest core
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> O well, I guess I have room to add my 6970 into the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Setup right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


That is odd.

How's your air flow? What's your ambient temp?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13776694*
> That is odd.
> 
> How's your air flow? What's your ambient temp?


I had a 5770 Tri-fire before, And my CPU temp was hitting 68c. Then I went to the 6990 and I was still getting 68c.
I haven't changed anything else. I put the 6990 under water added a 6970 Reference air cooled, And then my CPU temp goes down








Don't know what I did. I didn't even remount my CPU block. Maybe there was air stuck somewhere, But I did everything I could to make sure the air was out.
My ambient temp is always 21-22c, My PC is in a air conditioned basement


----------



## Jobotoo

AH! OK, it could be that the GPU without a waterblock was heating up the air in the case so much. With the waterblock the GPU temps are probably better and therefore your CPU temp is better.

My GPU used to hit 80C+ with stock fan/heatsink. On Water it is around 30C. That's a 50C difference.


----------



## Jobotoo

Also, are those GT fans on your RAD? Is the fan on the RX120 pulling are into the case, and are the fans on the 360 pushing air out of the case?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13776902*
> AH! OK, it could be that the GPU without a waterblock was heating up the air in the case so much. With the waterblock the GPU temps are probably better and therefore your CPU temp is better.
> 
> My GPU used to hit 80C+ with stock fan/heatsink. On Water it is around 30C. That's a 50C difference.


Yea I guess, My case temps there never very high. The HAF 932 does a good job with keeping the temps down








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13776932*
> Also, are those GT fans on your RAD? Is the fan on the RX120 pulling are into the case, and are the fans on the 360 pushing air out of the case?


Yea GT AP-15's in push. My fans are doing exhaust, But I am thinking of changing the RX120 to pull air in.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13776427*
> If it helps, here is a pic of my setup:
> *snip*


That's identical to mine. (Once I put in the gpu that is)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13776902*
> AH! OK, it could be that the GPU without a waterblock was heating up the air in the case so much. With the waterblock the GPU temps are probably better and therefore your CPU temp is better.
> 
> My GPU used to hit 80C+ with stock fan/heatsink. On Water it is around 30C. That's a 50C difference.


I have my rad fans pulling cold air into the case, so I doubt that's a factor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;13776342*
> I have the rs360 kit in a cpu only loop and never go over 65c at 4.2ghz @1.36volt load when i have it @1.392 volt i get up to 75c volt. And that's with my stock fans at 1000rpm pulling air in from the bottom of the rad. Did you flush your rad when you got it? If not you need to disassemble and clean the waterblock and rinse the rad.


I rinsed out the rad many times, until no particles came out anymore. When my gpu block comes I'll disassemble the cpu block to check and see if it needs cleaning. (Nothing should need cleaning, I just put it together this past friday.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Where should one buy a kit from? Ppcs, froezencpu, jab tech, or Canadian daz?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13778255*
> Where should one buy a kit from? Ppcs, froezencpu, jab tech, or Canadian daz?


Jab tech has the best price on the RX 360 right now. (about 10$ less)


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Yup however I'm more concerned with the shipping instead. From my searches jab also has the facebook discount code. But more concerned regarding customs, cod etc.

Should one order fluid locally or from the same etailer like jab?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13778472*
> Yup however I'm more concerned with the shipping instead. From my searches jab also has the facebook discount code. But more concerned regarding customs, cod etc.
> 
> Should one order fluid locally or from the same etailer like jab?


If the price difference isn't ridiculous I would try to get them all from the same place so you can get it all at the same time, and for simplicity, also cheaper shipping.

I can't comment on the shipping to canada, it seems to be different from how it's done in the united states.
If you are talking about the easter code it doesn't work anymore, I don't know of any others.

As is stated much in the water cooling sub-forum you should just use distilled + silver or pt nuke. Unless you need a corrosion inhibitor. The premixed stuff is just snake oil, all it will do is gunk up your loop.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

This is my internals:

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/yellowt/5e2afd50.jpg

Firstly what would be the better colour scheme for the loop? Secondly Should I get coolant+deionized water like for car radiators then add dye, or just a fesser one coolant + pt nuke?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13778652*
> This is my internals:
> 
> http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/yellowt/5e2afd50.jpg
> 
> Firstly what would be the better colour scheme for the loop? Secondly Should I get coolant+deionized water like for car radiators then add dye, or just a fesser one coolant + pt nuke?


Black tubing might look good, I'm rubbish with stuff like that though.

I would just get distilled water with a kill coil. (Deionized water does not have the minerals removed) I would not suggest using dye (it breaks down and will clog your channels) if you want to use dye it's fine as long as you preform maintenance regularly. I would not suggest premixed, it's a waste of money.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13778652*
> This is my internals:
> 
> http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/yellowt/5e2afd50.jpg
> 
> Firstly what would be the better colour scheme for the loop? Secondly Should I get coolant+deionized water like for car radiators then add dye, or just a fesser one coolant + pt nuke?


Trust me on this; use only distilled water and a silver kill coil.

Dazmode may have what you want, and they are in Canada. The very first post of this thread has links to the places you can get these kits.

Color scheme is all about personal choice, but do order better tubing if you get one if these kits.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

So no coolant at all? Just distilled water and coil (is that the same as silver strip)?

I'm going to look through more on here and wc thread. I should be able to find my answer.


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13778652*
> This is my internals:
> 
> http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss68/yellowt/5e2afd50.jpg
> 
> Firstly what would be the better colour scheme for the loop? Secondly Should I get coolant+deionized water like for car radiators then add dye, or just a fesser one coolant + pt nuke?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12988/ex-tub-869/Masterkleer_PVC_Tubing_12_ID_34_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Orange.html

Is what i recommend for your system.. just my thoughts... if not that than the black.. but my votes going strong for orange


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13778937*
> So no coolant at all? Just distilled water and coil (is that the same as silver strip)?
> .


Yes. If you get it in a flat strip, just wrap it around a pencil. Then drop it in your rez.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13778937*
> So no coolant at all? Just distilled water and coil (is that the same as silver strip)?
> 
> I'm going to look through more on here and wc thread. I should be able to find my answer.


Yes no coolant, just distilled and coil. And yes it's a silver strip.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Why distilled, not deionized like for automotive use?


----------



## trackready

Alright guys, I am sure this has been discussed but I am coming up with a blank. Should I expect to see any tangible temp drop by replacing the 2 included 1700rpm fans with say 1850 GT's? My case is a 600t and only allows fans to pull out the case, not enough room for push pull. Problem is my friggen setup is plagued with high heat. It has driven my nearly mad. I do feel like I am alittle obsessed though because my system is rock solid stable @ 4.1ghz. My issue is this, I have gone from a Thermaltake Frio to a Antec Kuhler 920 (The new thick one) to now the Rasa 240 setup. Now although my temps are better with every upgrade they are still high compared to what I see. With a 4.0ghz overclock w/ 1.44v read by HW monitor - 50c Core Temp and 68c MB Socket Temp after 30min small fft prime test. With the Antec I would get about 55c Core Temp and approx same MB Socket Temp... Although this was with both the fans @ 2250rpms. Frio would get well in the 70's socket temp and 60c Core. Ambient is about 26c.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13779079*
> Why distilled, not deionized like for automotive use?


As I've said before, deionized does not have the minerals removed. Minerals can cause build up in the water blocks.

Completely wrong, sorry.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13779079*
> Why distilled, not deionized like for automotive use?


Short answer: minerals.

Long answer: there are tons of threads on this topic and people that understand it much better than I. Do a search if you wish. But basically you don't want other minerals in you water.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13779120*
> Short answer: minerals.
> 
> Long answer: there are tons of threads on this topic and people that understand it much better than I. Do a search if you wish. But basically you don't want other minerals in you water.


DI water doesn't have minerals. It tends to be more acidic than distilled though.


----------



## Jobotoo

^There you go. Thanks!


----------



## [Adz]

I'm gonna start putting my loop together once and for all (hopefully) within the next few days. Just wondering what you think I should do about airflow.










There are two intake fans at the front which pass through an RS240. At the bottom, there is a small PSU exhaust fan. At the back, there is one fan that pushes through an RX120 (I've drawn the diagram wrong there, the fan is supposed to be to the right of the purple radiator, it's push, not pull)
That leaves the question of the fan up top (orange in the picture). Should I have it as an exhaust, which could potentially starve the RX120 of air, or have it as an intake to blow fresh air over the RX120 and the fan next to it?


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


It will probably get a bit hotter in a month.









If you have the space, you could just get any fan and point it at your case, if you have the side panel off. I didn't notice a big difference with my panel on or off, but I did have a fan pointed at it when it was off.

How are you checking the temperature on the VRMs?

What is your CPU/GPU temp? I'm at 22.5C ambient, and my GPU is at 31C.


Hopefully the rainyseason comes because man it's so dang hot here. I've no thermal sensors for my vrm heatsink fins but they were quite hot to the touch. Painfully so. With the ambient temps of 30c my 4.6ghz idles at 38-34-35-38 ish so it's probably alright, even my load temps are manageable. My vc is oc'ed to 900/1800/2100 and it idles at 40c. Load temps while NBA 2k11 reaches 55ish..

Gotta figure out how to re-direct the airflow to help with the temps of the fins. I'm even contemplating of putting a swiftech MW80 for my videocard.


----------



## Annex

I just realized my side window mod will likely prevent me from routing tubing from the bottom, so a bottom mounted rx120 is out of the question it seems.

The more expensive alternative is upgrading my rs360 to an rx360.. I'm just curious if it'll make a large difference with two GPU's and CPU on the loop.. I know for sure it'll work better if I get a fan controller and lower the rpms on my AP-15's, but will I get significantly increased thermal performance with it working in tandem with an rx120 at full speed?


----------



## Jobotoo

Could you do this:









Or put a 360 Rad up top?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;13780292*
> I just realized my side window mod will likely prevent me from routing tubing from the bottom, so a bottom mounted rx120 is out of the question it seems.
> 
> The more expensive alternative is upgrading my rs360 to an rx360.. I'm just curious if it'll make a large difference with two GPU's and CPU on the loop.. I know for sure it'll work better if I get a fan controller and lower the rpms on my AP-15's, but will I get significantly increased thermal performance with it working in tandem with an rx120 at full speed?


You could mount the 360 up top, and the 120 at the rear fan intake over the CPU.

The RX will give you better temps, but how much I am not sure. I would use what you have first. If you do not have the 120 yet, I would suggest going with an RX240 or could you, and would you want to, add an RX360 to use with your RS360?

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but your GT(AP-15s) are going to shine on the thicker RX rad.

If you add any RAD (120, 240, 360, etc.) to the RAD you already have it will give you better temps, if you have CPU and two GPUs.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Retrolock*


Hopefully the rainyseason comes because man it's so dang hot here. I've no thermal sensors for my vrm heatsink fins but they were quite hot to the touch. Painfully so. With the ambient temps of 30c my 4.6ghz idles at 38-34-35-38 ish so it's probably alright, even my load temps are manageable. My vc is oc'ed to 900/1800/2100 and it idles at 40c. Load temps while NBA 2k11 reaches 55ish..

Gotta figure out how to re-direct the airflow to help with the temps of the fins. I'm even contemplating of putting a swiftech MW80 for my videocard.


With an RS240, those temps look fine to me. But do make sure you have decent airflow in that case. Maybe upgrade intake/exhaust fans? Just one idea.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13780299*
> Could you do this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or put a 360 Rad up top?


Thanks for the idea, but I can't. The fan up top is a 200mm with no way to mount a rad to it, and there's not enough space for a 360 rad.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


After what they posted, I'm thinking of getting rid of my GPU block . . .

Maybe I'll have to get a new GPU too.










Your copper block should be fine. It's only the EK *Nickel Plated* GPU blocks that have problems. However, it's always a good idea to periodically check your parts carefully for any abnormalities. Many users think having clear/clean looking water in their reservoir or when they drain the loop means everything's OK, but that is not a valid indicator. While it takes a little more time to dissemble the blocks, it's the only way to find out their actual condition.

I'm also glad I bought the XSPC RASA block rather than any of the EK blocks...

Side note: RR has also determined that EK Heatkiller 3.0 CPU blocks have defects as well. Link here.


----------



## Nytehawk

I'm very happy Jab-tech has RX360's back in stock. I never got my email notification, though.

Time to figure out how to mount it in a phantom. Are we all agreed that an RS360 is not sufficient for an i7 and 2 GTX580's? It would be much easier to mount.

I'm thinking of going with XSPC Razor water blocks. Are they good for that price? So shiny.

lol so cheap!


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


DI water doesn't have minerals. It tends to be more acidic than distilled though.


Yeah I ask since I've worked in auto service for over four years. Thus I can't get over the fact that, no coolant, and distilled water instead of deionized water etc. But I think we're comparing different blocks and temperature dissipation rates. Deionized water is just so much cheaper than actually buying distilled from a wc store like dazmode.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nytehawk*


Time to figure out how to mount it in a phantom. Are we all agreed that an RS360 is not sufficient for an i7 and 2 GTX580's? It would be much easier to mount.


Agreed. A single RS360 wouldn't be able to cool all of that.


----------



## Khalam

lads what do you think, will a rx360 + two rx120 be enough for my i7 and 2x6990? I could plug each 6990 to a seperate rx120 and the i7 to a rx360


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


lads what do you think, will a rx360 + two rx120 be enough for my i7 and 2x6990? I could plug each 6990 to a seperate rx120 and the i7 to a rx360


overkill! just get an rx480. there is one in the FS section now.


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone*


Yeah I ask since I've worked in auto service for over four years. Thus I can't get over the fact that, no coolant, and distilled water instead of deionized water etc. But I think we're comparing different blocks and temperature dissipation rates. Deionized water is just so much cheaper than actually buying distilled from a wc store like dazmode.


/
go to Walmart and buy a gallon for $1. Is that so hard?

idk if you have one near you, but many stores sell distilled by the gallon


----------



## Khalam

cant mod stuff for the life of me, hence the 360+120+120







your saying overkill so its enough then ay?







do you think the xspc pomp/res will be enough though?


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


lads what do you think, will a rx360 + two rx120 be enough for my i7 and 2x6990? I could plug each 6990 to a seperate rx120 and the i7 to a rx360





















I'm not good with charts and stuff, but I know these are a good starting point.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nytehawk*


/
go to Walmart and buy a gallon for $1. Is that so hard?

idk if you have one near you, but many stores sell distilled by the gallon


It's not about pricing. The whole point is to ask if there any specifics in requirements, otherwise I'd just do the same for automotive use. Yes I've bought distilled and deionized before as well. I guess there isn't any difference between radiators (not counting alu).


----------



## SandShark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone*


Yeah I ask since I've worked in auto service for over four years. Thus I can't get over the fact that, no coolant, and distilled water instead of deionized water etc. But I think we're comparing different blocks and temperature dissipation rates. Deionized water is just so much cheaper than actually buying distilled from a wc store like dazmode.


I think you might have them confused.

Distilled water is cheap and can be bought at grocery stores as well - at least in North America - even Vancouver, Canada (for example here). Distilled water is non-conductive and bacteria free which is why it's used so often around electrical devices. Pre-made coolants are distilled water based with different agents like glycol to prevent corrosion and algae or bacteria growth. Water cooling users who use distilled water add a silver coil or an anti-bacteria additive to prevent growth of those organisms because once the water is exposed to air the presence of bacteria can be introduced. Whether that method prevents corrosion depends on a few things like the metals you're using in the loop. All copper parts are the simplest way to prevent corrosion, and generally nickel plated has the same results - the exception being some EK Nickel plated blocks. Aluminum is a metal that is to be AVOIDED in water cooling loops!!!

Deionized water is:

Quote:



Deionized water, also known as demineralized water[2] (DI water, DIW or de-ionized water), is water that has had its mineral ions removed, such as cations from sodium, calcium, iron, copper and anions such as chloride and bromide. Deionization is a physical process which uses specially-manufactured ion exchange resins which bind to and filter out the mineral salts from water. Because the majority of water impurities are dissolved salts, deionization produces a high purity water that is generally similar to distilled water, and this process is quick and without scale buildup. However, deionization does not significantly remove uncharged organic molecules, viruses or bacteria, except by incidental trapping in the resin. Specially made strong base anion resins can remove Gram-negative bacteria. Deionization can be done continuously and inexpensively using electrodeionization.

Deionization does not remove the hydroxide or hydronium ions from water. These are the products of the self-ionization of water to equilibrium and therefore are impossible to remove.


The key being *deionization does not significantly remove uncharged organic molecules, viruses or bacteria, except by incidental trapping in the resin. Specially made strong base anion resins can remove Gram-negative bacteria.* The point is, DI water may not be bacteria free and without additives the bacteria can multiply rapidly.

So while both distilled and deionized water are better than tap water for purity, distilled water is preferred for being slightly purer and less conductive. Just do a search and you'll see a lot of articles and data on the subject.

I'm doing some tests with distilled vs coolant, which will require months to complete, and have also been following this study for a while... post #3 illustrates their findings pretty well.

Quote:



Sorry, kindly allow me to break it down out for everyone, real plain and simple...

'Mixing Metals' (see.. Galvanic corrosion) refers to rolling metals together that aren't noble. It's an very easy concept to grasp.

ALUMINUM + COPPER or BRASS or NICKEL or SILVER = EPICFAIL

COPPER + BRASS = WIN

COPPER + BRASS + SILVER = WIN

COPPER + NICKEL = WIN

COPPER + NICKEL + SILVER = WIN

BRASS + NICKEL = WIN

BRASS + NICKEL + SILVER = WIN

COPPER + BRASS + NICKEL = WIN

COPPER + BRASS + NICKEL + SILVER = WIN

You can also throw some quality STAINLESS STEEL in with COPPER / BRASS / NICKEL / SILVER and not have any problems, rolling straight distilled H2O.

STAY AWAY FROM ALUMINUM IN YOUR LIQUID COOLING LOOP !!!

COPPER / BRASS / NICKEL / SILVER are NOBLE METALS. NO ANTI-CORROSION ADDITIVE IS NEEDED.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


lads what do you think, will a rx360 + two rx120 be enough for my i7 and 2x6990? I could plug each 6990 to a seperate rx120 and the i7 to a rx360


You could use them all in one loop, just place rads in-between your CPU/GPUs. I run the Pump>CPU>RX360>GPUs>RX360>Res.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone*


Yeah I ask since I've worked in auto service for over four years. Thus I can't get over the fact that, no coolant, and distilled water instead of deionized water etc. But I think we're comparing different blocks and temperature dissipation rates. Deionized water is just so much cheaper than actually buying distilled from a wc store like dazmode.


IMO, DI water is best used when mixed with coolants or PH buffers. Distilled is easier for most to obtain though. I use DI since I have my own RO/DI system and can check the PH and TDS with my meters.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


IMO, DI water is best used when mixed with coolants or PH buffers. Distilled is easier for most to obtain though. I use DI since I have my own RO/DI system and can check the PH and TDS with my meters.


Sadly over here it's the opposite. Distilled is rare and expensive, de-ionized is the norm.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark;13782062*
> Distilled water is non-conductive and bacteria free which is why it's used so often around electrical devices.


AND... Mineral free! Less deposits inside the loop.


----------



## Havoknova

Can i use sea water or river water in the loop???

Its free and it came from mother nature


----------



## ezveedub

No matter what you do, water will become conductive by being in contact with metals. Pure water is very aggressive in most cases and will never stay pure in a water loop.


----------



## Annex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13782773*
> You could use them all in one loop, just place rads in-between your CPU/GPUs. I run the Pump>CPU>RX360>GPUs>RX360>Res.


What kind of temps do you get? I'll never have a set up like that, but I am curious since it seems like such a large heat load.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoknova;13784472*
> can i use sea water or river water in the loop???
> 
> Its free and it came from mother nature


lmao


----------



## Busyhand

I just received my RX360 kit. However, I had noticed some damage on the radiator fin and channel. Should I go ahead and install or have the rad replaced? I really don't want to ship back and wait for another rad.









Here is a picture of my rad.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13784472*
> Can i use sea water or river water in the loop???
> 
> Its free and it came from mother nature


You can do whatever you want, it doesn't mean you should though


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havoknova;13784472*
> Can i use sea water or river water in the loop???
> 
> Its free and it came from mother nature


sure, if you want mutant fish eggs hatching in your res


----------



## Alex132

I am going to buy an RS360 kit soon (they don't have the RX360 here in RSA







)

Anyway, I was wondering about a few things:

What temperature difference would I see? (Ambient is about 18-22'c now, I have some CoolerMaster Sickleflow R4's Which I am guessing is better than the stock fans.

What is the big difference between the RX and the RS, apart from physical differences?

Is it better to use the tubing / liquid that comes with the kit or to buy some separately?
Personally I want UV-Blue tubing (also not in RSA, well its $15 per ft and I am NOT paying that much for tubing, most probably try to find it locally somehow), but I am not going to use additives/dyes.

Thanks guys


----------



## rpgman1

There is a Rasa kit with a RX360 rad on eBay ending shortly today. Never thought I see this kit on an auction site and it's a great deal.


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpgman1;13786686*
> There is a Rasa kit with a RX360 rad on eBay ending shortly today. Never thought I see this kit on an auction site and it's a great deal.


by the time that ends the price will be pretty much close to if you were to buy it on another site


----------



## bmckenna

Joined for the Corsair 600T owners club thread, and they've been very helpful over there. Figured I'd pop in here and ask opinions on a potential plan for liquid cooling.

I'm thinking about getting the RS240 kit, as the radiator can fit inside my case in the top fan area. I'd like to keep everything internal and looking clean, but if absolutely necessary, I would consider mounting a larger radiator off the back of the case (as long as someone can confirm it doesn't interfere much/at all with rear motherboard/expansion slot ports). However, I would ideally like to cool my GPU as well, since I run SMP/GPU [email protected] cores (just hit 2m points!), and the GPU is by far the hottest thing in my case. I'm running CPU (2500k) and GPU (560ti) at stock speeds, but would be interested in overclocking at least the CPU and possibly the GPU at some point in the near-ish future. Is overclocking the GPU out of the question without additional heatsinks/something on the chips (if I'm not going full block, and I don't think I am since I don't think it's a reference card)?

Am I kidding myself by thinking I can set up a single loop with the CPU/GPU and just the RS240 kit + a Rasa GPU chip block (if someone can confirm this will fit, awesome...I haven't found anything either way regarding the 560, though it says it fits the 580...) and do better than my Hyper 212+/MSI Twin Frozr's cooler on the GPU? What would you say if there were another radiator added to the loop at the front fan mounts (140/200mm are possible from what I've seen, though the 200mm was in a separate loop)?

To expand a bit, with both folding cores running, my CPU is currently 40-47 deg C (difference between cores) and my GPU is normally around 60 deg C.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13786500*
> I am going to buy an RS360 kit soon (they don't have the RX360 here in RSA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering about a few things:
> 
> What temperature difference would I see? (Ambient is about 18-22'c now, I have some CoolerMaster Sickleflow R4's Which I am guessing is better than the stock fans.
> 
> What is the big difference between the RX and the RS, apart from physical differences?
> 
> Is it better to use the tubing / liquid that comes with the kit or to buy some separately?
> Personally I want UV-Blue tubing (also not in RSA, well its $15 per ft and I am NOT paying that much for tubing, most probably try to find it locally somehow), but I am not going to use additives/dyes.
> 
> Thanks guys


$15/ft!?!? Not even Tygon tubing is that expensive. WTH tubing do they sell in RSA? Stock tubing will turn white or brown on you shortly after usage. Look for PrimoFlex, Tygon or MasterKleer tubing I guess.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13786789*
> $15/ft!?!? Not even Tygon tubing is that expensive. WTH tubing do they sell in RSA? Stock tubing will turn white or brown on you shortly after usage. Look for PrimoFlex, Tygon or MasterKleer tubing I guess.


Maybe he's mistaken and he's thinking 15$/10ft?


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13786356*
> I just received my RX360 kit. However, I had noticed some damage on the radiator fin and channel. Should I go ahead and install or have the rad replaced? I really don't want to ship back and wait for another rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of my rad.


So I am guessing I should ignore the ripped fin and the dent in the channel since nobody replied?


----------



## Boyboyd

Yeah it's probably not a big deal.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13786809*
> Maybe he's mistaken and he's thinking 15$/10ft?


If it was $15/10ft I would jump on it like -- wait I found a 10ft pack for $53, new in stock




























, clear though, but I am sure I can speak to the guy who orders them for UV-Blue, dont wanna use additives.

This was the before tubing:link

This is the new tubing they just got in stock: link

$1 = R6.95
Before = $158
After = $53


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13787134*
> So am am guessing I should ignore the ripped fin and the dent in the channel since nobody replied?


If it was me I contact the seller by phone and see what they'd be willing to do (as far as speed of shipping) I wouldn't think a couple days would case that big of hassle. But I do understand completely. I'd want/expect undamaged goods for the money I spend. I received my kit in just 2 days from frozen.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;13787199*
> If it was me I contact the seller by phone and see what they'd be willing to do (as far as speed of shipping) I wouldn't think a couple days would case that big of hassle. But I do understand completely. I'd want/expect undamaged goods for the money I spend. I received my kit in just 2 days from frozen.


It's going to cost me an arm and a leg even perhaps my other leg to ship it back. I will just keep this. I am off to the store to get some distilled water.


----------



## wetfit9

XSPC 5.25 Dual Laing DDC Bay Reservoir w TWO pumps (3.1), what are you guys thoughts on this for 2 rx360 cpu and 2 580's for either a dual or single loop


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13786356*
> I just received my RX360 kit. However, I had noticed some damage on the radiator fin and channel. Should I go ahead and install or have the rad replaced? I really don't want to ship back and wait for another rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of my rad.


the ripped fin is not going to make a difference in temps. just keep it. it's fine.
while i was rinsing my rad for the first time with boiling water/vinegar (let it cool a little), the fins got so hot they started to become so soft that some of them bent. i used a sewing pin to straiten them out. i believe i still have small rips in a couple of fins, but it's fine


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13787164*
> If it was $15/10ft I would jump on it like -- wait I found a 10ft pack for $53, new in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , clear though, but I am sure I can speak to the guy who orders them for UV-Blue, dont wanna use additives.
> 
> This was the before tubing:link
> 
> This is the new tubing they just got in stock: link
> 
> $1 = R6.95
> Before = $158
> After = $53


Ahh, expensive because of location. Woah, that's quiet the mark-up.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13787525*
> Ahh, expensive because of location. Woah, that's *quiet* the mark-up.


It is a rather stealthy markup







but also quite a markup on price








25.4% tax + $8/Lb means a lot of import fees


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13787603*
> It is a rather stealthy markup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but also quite a markup on price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 25.4% tax + $8/Lb means a lot of import fees


>.< We'll call it a typo.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

I'm so tense right now...

I might win that auction...

EDIT
YEYEYEYEYEYAHAHAAHHAHAHAHAHAH

XD

Won a RX360 at the price cheaper than a 240! Guess I AM going WC afterall.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13787807*
> I'm so tense right now...
> 
> I might win that auction...


Good luck.


----------



## rpgman1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13787807*
> I'm so tense right now...
> 
> I might win that auction...
> 
> EDIT
> YEYEYEYEYEYAHAHAAHHAHAHAHAHAH
> 
> XD
> 
> Won a RX360 at the price cheaper than a 240! Guess I AM going WC afterall.


Wait, are you talking about that auction on eBay I pointed out earlier today? If so, congratulations on winning the kit:applaud:


----------



## yellowtoblerone

I'm so excited!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13787134*
> So am am guessing I should ignore the ripped fin and the dent in the channel since nobody replied?


I have the same exact dent on one of my rads. As long as its not a punctured hole, you have nothing to worry about. Even if it leaked, it can be solder repaired easily.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13787164*
> If it was $15/10ft I would jump on it like -- wait I found a 10ft pack for $53, new in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , clear though, but I am sure I can speak to the guy who orders them for UV-Blue, dont wanna use additives.
> 
> This was the before tubing:link
> 
> This is the new tubing they just got in stock: link
> 
> $1 = R6.95
> Before = $158
> After = $53


With 1/2" ID-3/4"OD tubing, you're going to need to use clamps for sure. If it were 7/16"ID, you don't need the clamps.


----------



## Alex132

It's 1/2ID 3/4 OD, but surely the kit's clamps will be OK?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13788333*
> It's 1/2ID 3/4 OD, but surely the kit's clamps will be OK?


I've never checked to see if they are 3/4" clamps. I think they are IMO. When I first used them on the stock tubing, they clamped almost completely down, so there's some extra room for bigger tubing it seems.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13788224*
> I have the same exact dent on one of my rads. As long as its not a punctured hole, you have nothing to worry about. Even if it leaked, it can be solder repaired easily.


Yea, I worried for nothing. I am starting to put together this kit now! It took me awhile to get some distilled water and thermal paste for my blocks though.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13789733*
> Yea, I worried for nothing. I am starting to put together this kit now! It took me awhile to get some distilled water and thermal paste for my blocks though.


Awesome, good luck with your loop


----------



## Busyhand

Ah! nothing is going right. I stripped the last damn screw on my GPU which is preventing me from installing the block, and i spent hrs and hrs trying to get it out all night. Now nothing is done and I am very frustrated. &[email protected]@[email protected]@ stripped screw







. I will visit the hardware store tomorrow and see if I can get an extractor


----------



## Annex

I used this spreadsheet to make rough calculations on deltas and flow rates:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-and-radiator-optimizer-spreadsheet/

I doubt my system draws 750 watts when pushed to the max, but even if it did I'd still see remarkable temperatures with the stock pump performing below the minimum recommended flow rate - Atleast with the set up I'm planning.

This is a pretty neat download.. The disclaimer says there have been results 15%-20% off, but you can overcompensate to be safe I imagine..


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;13786706*
> by the time that ends the price will be pretty much close to if you were to buy it on another site


Final price was $152 US. That is a ridiculous price for the RASA 750 RX 360 kit, brand new. Someone got an amazing deal.


----------



## rpgman1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;13795707*
> Final price was $152 US. That is a ridiculous price for the RASA 750 RX 360 kit, brand new. Someone got an amazing deal.


You didn't factor in shipping, but the person who won saved more than the retail price + shipping. It was very rare for this kit to show up on eBay.


----------



## k1msta

would a rs240 be good enough for a single gpu loop? or rx240 would be better?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13794719*
> Ah! nothing is going right. I stripped the last damn screw on my GPU which is preventing me from installing the block, and i spent hrs and hrs trying to get it out all night. Now nothing is done and I am very frustrated. &[email protected]@[email protected]@ stripped screw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I will visit the hardware store tomorrow and see if I can get an extractor


I feel you pain!!! I did the same thing and it was very frustrating! I ended up drilling it out slightly till it came off. It worked out in the end.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k1msta;13798050*
> would a rs240 be good enough for a single gpu loop? or rx240 would be better?


RX would be better.


----------



## Sean Webster

I second the RX b/c you will be able to ad a cpu to the loop later.


----------



## Boyboyd

Just added a GPU to my loop. RASA pump keeps on going :O

(inb4 horrific pump failure)


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13798795*
> Just added a GPU to my loop. RASA pump keeps on going :O
> 
> (inb4 horrific pump failure)


Haha, just put mine in too.


----------



## Jobotoo

Our pumps should have no problem with 2 RADs and 2 Blocks.


----------



## Taylorsci

The cpu was running hotter than expected because the TIM didn't spread well (guess I didn't put enough on). Dropped temps ~15c for me.

Now that I have my gpu on water I can hit 900/1800/1800 1.2v 50c


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


The cpu was running hotter than expected because the TIM didn't spread well (guess I didn't put enough on). Dropped temps ~15c for me.

Now that I have my gpu on water I can hit 900/1800/1800 1.2v 50c


Great! What TIM are you using?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


The cpu was running hotter than expected because the TIM didn't spread well (guess I didn't put enough on). Dropped temps ~15c for me.

Now that I have my gpu on water I can hit 900/1800/1800 1.2v 50c


Is 1.2v safe? I'm trying to decide how far to OC my 480. No idea what the stock clocks are but my card came with 840 core 1950 mem.


----------



## Agenesis

Is the stock pump in the kit sufficient for a 360 + 24+ +120 + cpu + 2 gpu blocks?

Or am I crazy?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


Is the stock pump in the kit sufficient for a 360 + 24+ +120 + cpu + 2 gpu blocks?

Or am I crazy?


That's probably alright, wouldn't add anymore though.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Is 1.2v safe? I'm trying to decide how far to OC my 480. No idea what the stock clocks are but my card came with 840 core 1950 mem.


I have no idea, I hope so though







(I'll go look) I didn't really find anything about it. I'm going to see if I can lower the voltage any and keep my clock.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


Great! What TIM are you using?


I'm using MX-3.


----------



## wermad

Anyone using large compression (1/2x3/4) fittings on the rasa cpu block???


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13800825*
> Anyone using large compression (1/2x3/4) fittings on the rasa cpu block???


I don't, but here's some pics of it.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/05/09/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-rasa/2/


----------



## Sleepee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Anyone using large compression (1/2x3/4) fittings on the rasa cpu block???


I was planning to, until I actually tried it. I've got some 45 degree rotaries in the mail to alleviate this problem though. The part that screws on will rub against the other.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I have no idea, I hope so though







(I'll go look) I didn't really find anything about it. I'm going to see if I can lower the voltage any and keep my clock.

I'm using MX-3.


I f your using mx-3 and getting high temps may be worth looking at this

http://skinneelabs.com/2011-tim-results/3/


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Anyone using large compression (1/2x3/4) fittings on the rasa cpu block???


I had originally put some rotary ones, but one leaked, so I went back to barbs.


----------



## wermad

Thanks guys, I did stumble upon Martin's and found Skinnee's pages. Its gonna be a tight fit since I have TFC but I do have some 45° extensions.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/93...talNickel.html

Can I add that to the loop with the rasa block and radiator?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone*


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/93...talNickel.html

Can I add that to the loop with the rasa block and radiator?


It is possible, but there are some issues with EK'a nickel, so personally I would not get it.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

That seemed to be with the recent gpu blocks only thought, right?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone*


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/93...talNickel.html

Can I add that to the loop with the rasa block and radiator?










Unless its all copper, I wouldn't touch that right now. EK's Nickel is







right now


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone*


That seemed to be with the recent gpu blocks only thought, right?


Not just GPU blocks. ;( It has affected many of their products.


----------



## Boyboyd

Hmmm. I think I have a nickel GPU block. Not really sure though.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Hmmm. I think I have a nickel GPU block. Not really sure though.


If it looks silverish (the metal part) its nickel.


----------



## Boyboyd

Unfortunately i don't know. It came with the card and i've never removed it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Unfortunately i don't know. It came with the card and i've never removed it.


you can see it from the sides or where the fittings go on the block.

edit: nm, saw your post in the Water club, you have copper/acetal. You're fine my friend.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Thanks guys, I did stumble upon Martin's and found Skinnee's pages. Its gonna be a tight fit since I have TFC but I do have some 45Â° extensions.


I have 1/2 X 3/4" and use compression fitting. Works great. No problem whatsoever and I've played around with different angles. Looks much better with compression fitting vs barbs IMHO. Here's a pic.


----------



## wermad

I have TFC compression fittings, Martin's review says it is extremely close and may scrape on each other. Looking into getting a cpu block and not many support 1/2x3/4.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I have TFC compression fittings, Martin's review says it is extremely close and may scrape on each other. Looking into getting a cpu block and not many support 1/2x3/4.


That's one of the reasons I ran 7/16" compression fittings instead of 1/2". They are large enough as is. Adding to 45deg rotaries would help in tight quarters.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Looks much better with compression fitting vs barbs IMHO.


Along with the black tape on your 24pin power cable


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SandShark*


Along with the black tape on your 24pin power cable










LOL, got me.







I hated the multi-coloured wires. My next mod is to sleeve the cables...I thinking all blue or all black...but yeah that tape is pretty ghetto looking.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


LOL, got me.








I hated the multi-coloured wires. My next mod is to sleeve the cables...I thinking all blue or all black...but yeah that tape is pretty ghetto looking.











Spray paint the wires or sleeve them


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SandShark*


Along with the black tape on your 24pin power cable










Just looked at your black phantom picture log. Looks great...very nice job, very clean. 







I'm inspired. Perhaps it's time for me to finally get that HAF X along with some sleeving.







Only thing I might add to your case is possibly compression fittings vs the screw type hose clamps.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


you can see it from the sides or where the fittings go on the block.

edit: nm, saw your post in the Water club, you have copper/acetal. You're fine my friend.


That's awesome new. Thanks for looking for me, lol.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


LOL, got me.







I hated the multi-coloured wires. My next mod is to sleeve the cables...I thinking all blue or all black...but yeah that tape is pretty ghetto looking.


















Sorry, I couldn't resist.

I previously used compression fittings (XSPC AND EK), but they were REALLY tough to unscrew once the tube was on, so I switched to barbs with clamps to make it easier. One turn of the screw and they're off. I'm not trying to compete with the custom modders (see Phantom Case post #82), and test different components as you can see by the different fans on the radiator. Of course, I switch things around, open my blocks up to check their condition, and get new components often, but if you don't then I guess it doesn't really matter.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


XSPC 5.25 Dual Laing DDC Bay Reservoir w TWO pumps (3.1), what are you guys thoughts on this for 2 rx360 cpu and 2 580's for either a dual or single loop


it got lost, comments


----------



## [Adz]

May need to buy a replacement for my RX120, so I'm wondering, would it be worth buying an RX240 instead?

Current details:

1x RS240
1x RX120
Intel Q9650
GTX470

Would an RX240 really be worth it, or will an RX120 suffice?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13802970*
> it got lost, comments


That would work, you could use an rx 240 instead of the second 360. Not sure where you would fit a second 360.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13803730*
> May need to buy a replacement for my RX120, so I'm wondering, would it be worth buying an RX240 instead?
> 
> Current details:
> 
> 1x RS240
> 1x RX120
> Intel Q9650
> GTX470
> 
> Would an RX240 really be worth it, or will an RX120 suffice?


I'd go for the 240, it's only 20$ more.

whoops double post >.>


----------



## [Adz]

In the UK, it's around double the price of the RX120.
RX120 - £35-£40
RX240 - £70~


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13803749*
> That would work, you could use an rx 240 instead of the second 360. Not sure where you would fit a second 360.


I am planning on ordering a Case Laps T10 case Friday and running two RX360 and a rs360 rad to cool my cpu and two 580's. Wanted to do it in one loop instead of two. I only want one drain port and the different, from what I have read, between a dual loop and a single loop is not to much. Some say single is better and some say dual loop is better. I just don't know.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13804054*
> I am planning on ordering a Case Laps T10 case Friday and running two RX360 and a rs360 rad to cool my cpu and two 580's. Wanted to do it in one loop instead of two. I only want one drain port and the different, from what I have read, between a dual loop and a single loop is not to much. Some say single is better and some say dual loop is better. I just don't know.


Ahh, it will fit then







You should just use one loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13803822*
> In the UK, it's around double the price of the RX120.
> RX120 - £35-£40
> RX240 - £70~


I assume you are overclocking the gfx and cpu?
I'd still go 240 if you can afford it.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13803730*
> May need to buy a replacement for my RX120, so I'm wondering, would it be worth buying an RX240 instead?
> 
> Current details:
> 
> 1x RS240
> 1x RX120
> Intel Q9650
> GTX470
> 
> Would an RX240 really be worth it, or will an RX120 suffice?


I'd go for the RX240, if those are your only two choices.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13804054*
> I am planning on ordering a Case Laps T10 case Friday and running two RX360 and a rs360 rad to cool my cpu and two 580's. Wanted to do it in one loop instead of two. I only want one drain port and the different, from what I have read, between a dual loop and a single loop is not to much. Some say single is better and some say dual loop is better. I just don't know.


I'm so Jealous!

I would go with one loop, but totally up to you. Easier to go one loop I would think.

If it helps, I use this as my drain port, and it has been VERY helpful. (I stole the idea from someone else in here.):


----------



## wermad

Pulled the trigger on the rasa cpu block


----------



## Busyhand

After running into multiple issues, I finally finished my install of the Rasa 750 RX360 kit. So far I am able to do 5GHz @ 62-68c load and I can finally game without the noisy GPU fan pissing me off! Why didn't I get this kit a long time ago


----------



## Gillymonster

Alright gents I'm replacing my current closed loop with an RS360 kit (space being the issue) an RS240, and Heatkiller GPU blocks for my cards.

I will more than likely replace my case here soon so I can place the radiators inside as apposed to my current plan of mounting the 360 outside the case.

should I be installing a second pump in this loop?


----------



## Boyboyd

Nope, the stock pump should be able to cope.


----------



## Gillymonster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13807636*
> Nope, the stock pump should be able to cope.


Good to know.

I'm thinking of running the loop as follows:

Res/pump --> CPU -->RS240 ---> GPU 1--- > GPU 2----> RS360 ---> Res/pump


----------



## Boyboyd

That should work. Very similar to how i have mine laid out except with 1 GPU block.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Yo mbudden... you seriously need to clear out your PM's.


----------



## logan666

hey ive got my rx 360 rasa kit cooling my 480 sli atm would the pump handle an ek cpu block and xspc rx120 rad???


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *logan666;13808300*
> hey ive got my rx 360 rasa kit cooling my 480 sli atm would the pump handle an ek cpu block and xspc rx120 rad???


Yes


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yo mbudden... you seriously need to clear out your PM's.










Cleared some out just for you


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


I can finally game without the noisy GPU fan pissing me off! Why didn't I get this kit a long time ago










My thoughts exactly!

When I first put my WC setup in, the silence was priceless. Before my GPU fan was at 90% and my temps were 80C+ . . . Now it doesn't go above 40C.


----------



## Penumbra

thanks to this thread, i built my first computer and my first wc loop (rx360 kit, ap-15 push/pull).

Everything installed great in my Haf-X, although a few tight squeeze areas and some improvising, but no leaks and the loop seems to be running fine.

Just curious, I've o/c my 2500k up to 4.5gz and my full load temp is at 51C running Prime 95 with ambient at 27C. idle is about 32C. I've got Shin Etsu TIM, btw. Are those acceptable temps for the loop? I'm quite happy with it since stock cooler that came with the 2500k was at 80C when running Prime 95, w/ stock TIM.

Thanks!

View attachment 214494


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penumbra*


thanks to this thread, i built my first computer and my first wc loop (rx360 kit, ap-15 push/pull).

Everything installed great in my Haf-X, although a few tight squeeze areas and some improvising, but no leaks and the loop seems to be running fine.

Just curious, I've o/c my 2500k up to 4.5gz and my full load temp is at 51C running Prime 95 with ambient at 27C. idle is about 32C. I've got Shin Etsu TIM, btw. Are those acceptable temps for the loop? I'm quite happy with it since stock cooler that came with the 2500k was at 80C when running Prime 95, w/ stock TIM.

Thanks!

Attachment 214494


Looks good!









I think your temps are fine. Your idle at that ambient seems awesome.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


Looks good!









I think your temps are fine. Your idle at that ambient seems awesome.


Those temps seem in line more with an AMD chip. Then I read that it is an Intel chip. I'd say you have pretty good numbers based on what I have read but I honestly can't say for sure.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[Adz]*


In the UK, it's around double the price of the RX120.
RX120 - Â£35-Â£40
RX240 - Â£70~


http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...-pid-7874.html

only Â£ 58.99 here for RX240


----------



## logan666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


My thoughts exactly!

When I first put my WC setup in, the silence was priceless. Before my GPU fan was at 90% and my temps were 80C+ . . . Now it doesn't go above 40C.


yeh just wcd my sli 480s holy **** its awesome no more noise







and max temp of arount 45


----------



## Boyboyd

I'm never having an air-cooled GPU again. Or any other fittings other than compression. They're not as expensive as I thought, they look nicer, and they are more secure than worm drives.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13813999*
> I'm never having an air-cooled GPU again. Or any other fittings other than compression. They're not as expensive as I thought, they look nicer, and they are more secure than worm drives.


Tell me about it, my gtx 470s were bad, but not compared to my new cards. I love compressions but they can be a pita to install in tight quarters. I was a barb user but found a bunch of compression fittings on clearance and just bought 24 to make sure I did not run out in the future


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13814096*
> Tell me about it, my gtx 470s were bad, but not compared to my new cards. *I love compressions but they can be a pita to install in tight quarters.* I was a barb user but found a bunch of compression fittings on clearance and just bought 24 to make sure I did not run out in the future


I haven't thought about that, damn. I'll probably leave the stock fittings on the res and just use worm drive clamps. I think the CPU block should be able to fit 2 on if i get the right ones. And it should be pretty easy on the res.

When I re-make my loop i'm adding a drain line. It's too much work to drain the loop every time. I notice you have one too, how do you block the end off?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13814169*
> I haven't thought about that, damn. I'll probably leave the stock fittings on the res and just use worm drive clamps. I think the CPU block should be able to fit 2 on if i get the right ones. And it should be pretty easy on the res.
> 
> When I re-make my loop i'm adding a drain line. It's too much work to drain the loop every time. I notice you have one too, how do you block the end off?


just install the fittings w/ tube with the mb outside the case, then install the mb back to the case. I end up asking my wife since she has tiny hands.


----------



## Boyboyd

I could do that. The only times i've assembled my loop all the parts have been in the case already. I find it easier to measure tubing that way (although i did a terrible job last time, lol).

I think i'll just struggle, time to research which fittings fit on the RASA block without 45 degree adaptors.


----------



## Khalam

guys what do you think about these fans?:

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-Nano-2G-12-PWM-Silent-1500rpm-Red-LED-Double-Blade--4-Pack_20913.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-Fan-5400-rpm--120x120x25mm-_20619.html

or

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-1850-RPM_945.html

for a rx480 and a rx240?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13814252*
> I could do that. The only times i've assembled my loop all the parts have been in the case already. I find it easier to measure tubing that way (although i did a terrible job last time, lol).
> 
> I think i'll just struggle, time to research which fittings fit on the RASA block without 45 degree adaptors.


Martin's Lab did a review of the rasa and which compression fittings fit. I have TFC and they have a miniscule amount of space in between, koolance does fit, and a few others. I don't recall the link but someone will post it. btw these are 1/2x3/4 or 12mmx19mm compression fittings.

edit: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/05/09/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-rasa/2/


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;13814416*
> guys what do you think about these fans?:
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-Nano-2G-12-PWM-Silent-1500rpm-Red-LED-Double-Blade--4-Pack_20913.html
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-Fan-5400-rpm--120x120x25mm-_20619.html
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-1850-RPM_945.html
> 
> for a rx480 and a rx240?


If you're getting gentle typhoons on an RX rad i'd go with the 1450 versions. They are next to silent. I wouldn't get that 5,400 RPM one. Excellent fan, but really noisy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13814439*
> Martin's Lab did a review of the rasa and which compression fittings fit. I have TFC and they have a miniscule amount of space in between, koolance does fit, and a few others. I don't recall the link but someone will post it. btw these are 1/2x3/4 or 12mmx19mm compression fittings.
> 
> edit: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/05/09/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-rasa/2/


Oh wow you found the link between me pressing quote and the page loading







thanks a lot. bookmarked this.


----------



## Greenback

this 1?

http://skinneelabs.com/cpu-fitting-compatibility/


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13813999*
> I'm never having an air-cooled GPU again. Or any other fittings other than compression. They're not as expensive as I thought, they look nicer, and they are more secure than worm drives.


Did you put a pair of pliers to those fittings? They look gouged up.


----------



## Khalam

im gone run all fans at 50% for anything but benching and then i dont really mind the noise, would you say those 5400rpms are gone be ok at 50% loudness wise?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;13814416*
> guys what do you think about these fans?:
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-Nano-2G-12-PWM-Silent-1500rpm-Red-LED-Double-Blade--4-Pack_20913.html
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-Fan-5400-rpm--120x120x25mm-_20619.html
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-1850-RPM_945.html
> 
> for a rx480 and a rx240?


Ok...

I can't bring myself to believe that the Phobyas move 103CFM with only 25dB... If they move that amount of air at that sound level... thats not a bad fan. Unfortunately you need high static pressure fans when used on radiators. Out of the three choices, these have the lowest SP. The other two option beat it out and by alot.

The 5400 RPM Typhoon is going to be loud at high speeds. Not sure how well they undervolt and what the sound relationship would be. I believe that they can't be undervolted very much (10 volts maybe) so you may be limited here. This may be a good choice if sound is not a problem.

I believe that out of your choices, the 1850 rpm Typhoon is your best bet. Silent. Good static pressure. If money is not that much of an object... push/pull. Otherwise, use a shroud with the fan in either push or pull. The shroud will help you out by improving your cooling efficiency by up to 19% from what I have read. If you have old fans around that you wont use or are damaged, you can make the shrouds from those easily.


----------



## Khalam

ive spend over 3500k on this rig already, might as well get the best ang go for 8x1850 on the top 480 rad and then 2 on the bottom 240. Would you say the rx series is better then thermochill?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;13814862*
> ive spend over 3500k on this rig already, might as well get the best ang go for 8x1850 on the top 480 rad and then 2 on the bottom 240. Would you say the rx series is better then thermochill?


I'll tell you what... you can read about it here and see all of the documentation that backs it up. it even goes into fan choices per radiator. VERY good reading. But I will say this... the RX series was rated as being the best rad for any kind of fan. Other good points? You will need to read it... it is interesting and enlightening.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penumbra;13811120*
> thanks to this thread, i built my first computer and my first wc loop (rx360 kit, ap-15 push/pull).
> 
> Everything installed great in my Haf-X, although a few tight squeeze areas and some improvising, but no leaks and the loop seems to be running fine.
> 
> Just curious, I've o/c my 2500k up to 4.5gz and my full load temp is at 51C running Prime 95 with ambient at 27C. idle is about 32C. I've got Shin Etsu TIM, btw. Are those acceptable temps for the loop? I'm quite happy with it since stock cooler that came with the 2500k was at 80C when running Prime 95, w/ stock TIM.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> View attachment 214494


I cant even fit my RX360 inside the HAF X case with 3 fans. I had to remove the 200mm top fans then placed all my 120mm GT fans there. Inside the case the mosfet heatsink on my motherboard is blocking any chance of a fan going on the rad there. However, I can fit 2 fans in the middle and end of the rad. So far I can do 5GHz @ 80c load on LinX with AVX patch added.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13812096*
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-RX-Series-240mm-Dual-Radiator--RX240-pid-7874.html
> 
> only £ 58.99 here for RX240


Thanks. But I decided I'm going to stick with the RX120. I really want to keep it internal, and there's simply not enough room for another 240 internally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13813999*
> I'm never having an air-cooled GPU again. Or any other fittings other than compression. They're not as expensive as I thought, they look nicer, and they are more secure than worm drives.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13814704*
> Did you put a pair of pliers to those fittings? They look gouged up.


Beat me to it. I had to use pliers on mine, and they're in much worse condition than Boyd's are. Where possible, I put a cloth between the pliers and the fittings, but that was the exception, not the rule.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13814704*
> Did you put a pair of pliers to those fittings? They look gouged up.


Nope. They came with the card and in think that's what the previous owner did.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13819838*
> Nope. They came with the card and in think that's what the previous owner did.


Maybe EK nickel plating has problems even with their fittings


----------



## Elmateo487

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;13819903*
> Maybe EK nickel plating has problems even with their fittings


yeah and instead of getting into your loop... it gets into your lungs!


----------



## geoxile

Where can you get a 1155 mounting plate for this kit?


----------



## mm67

Quote:



Originally Posted by *geoxile*


Where can you get a 1155 mounting plate for this kit?


Rasa comes with 1155 compatible backplate : http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterb...asa-cpu-black/


----------



## Mastiffman

NICE Setup! That Fan in back Reminds me of the ARC Reactor from Ironman!!!!


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile;13823069*
> Where can you get a 1155 mounting plate for this kit?


It's the 1156 plate. They ate the same.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;13823124*
> Rasa comes with 1155 compatible backplate : http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/rasa-cpu-black/


Oh great, thanks. I was only looking at the retailer websites and they didn't seem to list it.


----------



## Slipknotcc

Hey everyone,
New to this whole WC thing but wanting to try a Rasa RX360 kit. Right now I will only be cooling my X6 1090 at 4GHZ, but eventually I will be putting blocks on some ATI cards.

My only worry is that I have an Antec 1200. Its got a lot of room inside but no where seems perfect for an inside mount of the Rad. I would like to mount in on the inside top and use the big a$$ top fan to cool it as well as modding in another 120mm fan on top.

What I want to know is if the RX or RS kit would be better for that cooling situation. The top giant fan spins pretty slow so I would assume that RX would be better but just want to see if you guys have any ideas. I would really rather mount it inside instead of outside.

On a side note: I know this has probably been covered before but going from H50 to Rasa kit, will i see a substantial change in temps at load?

Thanks,
Cory


----------



## joetemp75

Can I get in the club?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slipknotcc;13824809*
> Hey everyone,
> New to this whole WC thing but wanting to try a Rasa RX360 kit. Right now I will only be cooling my X6 1090 at 4GHZ, but eventually I will be putting blocks on some ATI cards.
> 
> My only worry is that I have an Antec 1200. Its got a lot of room inside but no where seems perfect for an inside mount of the Rad. I would like to mount in on the inside top and use the big a$$ top fan to cool it as well as modding in another 120mm fan on top.
> 
> What I want to know is if the RX or RS kit would be better for that cooling situation. The top giant fan spins pretty slow so I would assume that RX would be better but just want to see if you guys have any ideas. I would really rather mount it inside instead of outside.
> 
> On a side note: I know this has probably been covered before but going from H50 to Rasa kit, will i see a substantial change in temps at load?
> 
> Thanks,
> Cory


It depends on what cards you want to cool. An RS240 is great starter for only the cpu, the RX240 is great for a cpu and gpu. RS360/Rx360 come in handy when you add another gpu. Your case is a big factor on which rad you'll end with. If you don't mind mounting the rad externally, then its easier for you to make a decision. Internally, its challenging, so take lots of measurements, rad measurements are provided through retailers listings or xspc.biz, and here as well.


----------



## Busyhand

Just wondering if anyone is using the HAF X with an RX360 rad and using the two top 200mm fans only for the radiator?


----------



## bdpakaknox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joetemp75*


Can I get in the club?










Interesting mount you have there, details?


----------



## Sean Webster

Looks nice


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Oh I can't wait for my RX 360 to get here.


----------



## Annex

Are there any guides on how to clean the rasa cpu block? Don't wanna take it apart and not be able to put it back together.


----------



## Gillymonster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joetemp75*


Can I get in the club?










This is basically what I'm going to have to do with my RS360 since it wont mount in my case along with the 240. What are you using as a stand?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


Are there any guides on how to clean the rasa cpu block? Don't wanna take it apart and not be able to put it back together.


just add a couple of fittings and tube and flush with distilled. The only real concern with opening up the block is the o-rings can be tricky to sit and play nice. I hear some silicone grease will help w/ that. Most blocks are ready to go. Only thing i have really cleaned/flushed are the rads.


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


just add a couple of fittings and tube and flush with distilled. The only real concern with opening up the block is the o-rings can be tricky to sit and play nice. I hear some silicone grease will help w/ that. Most blocks are ready to go. Only thing i have really cleaned/flushed are the rads.


Yeah, that's what I did before installing it... I really don't wanna take it apart in case getting the o-rings back in place does prove too difficult.

Thanks for the advice


----------



## Gillymonster

So I just realized as I'm going over my order that I didn't order any distilled water for my setup yet.

How much am I going to need for my setup:
Pump/res --> CPU --> RX240 --> GPU 1 --> GPU 2--> RS360 -->Pump/res
The pump/res is from the the RS360 kit.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gillymonster*


So I just realized as I'm going over my order that I didn't order any distilled water for my setup yet.

How much am I going to need for my setup:
Pump/res --> CPU --> RX240 --> GPU 1 --> GPU 2--> RS360 -->Pump/res
The pump/res is from the the RS360 kit.



You can find it cheap at many grocery stores or pharmacies. A gallon is very cheap in the US, you just might use under a 1L or 1/2 gallon. but I would recommend to get a whole gallon or 2 liters just in case you want to flush your parts or to have some spare.


----------



## Gillymonster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


You can find it cheap at many grocery stores or pharmacies. A gallon is very cheap in the US, you just might use under a 1L or 1/2 gallon. but I would recommend to get a whole gallon or 2 liters just in case you want to flush your parts or to have some spare.


Well you answered my next question as well. I was going to ask about using grocery store distilled. (since my neighbourhood King Soopers always has distilled) Appreciate the info.

I suppose its back to waiting for my shipment to arrive next week!


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gillymonster*


Well you answered my next question as well. I was going to ask about using grocery store distilled. (since my neighbourhood King Soopers always has distilled) Appreciate the info.

I suppose its back to waiting for my shipment to arrive next week!


Np, groceries sell them cheap by large quantities. I too am waiting for my new cpu and gpu (3x) blocks to arrive, possibly this monday


----------



## Gillymonster

I saw that... 3x 6950s.... Jealous indeed. Though I suppose on a single monitor my pair is serving me fine!


----------



## joetemp75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bdpakaknox;13831544*
> Interesting mount you have there, details?


It is a rasa 360 kit with a koolance bracket for the rad. Then I had the leftover fans from my noctura cooler so I used them.


----------



## joetemp75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gillymonster;13831833*
> This is basically what I'm going to have to do with my RS360 since it wont mount in my case along with the 240. What are you using as a stand?


The Koolance bracket


----------



## Mako0312

I'm interested in getting the RX 360 kit, but I don't know if I should go with the kit or pick everything separate.

I plan on WC'ing my 970 and 3gb 580, and I plan on adding another 3gb 580 in the future so I want to make room for that.

So should I grab the 360 kit or pick my own out.


----------



## Gillymonster

What I will say in regards to this is that my water cooling kit is now up in the $600+ range (full RS360 kit, RX240, additional fans, compression fittings, Primochill tubing,and 2x GPU blocks), it can get expensive very quickly, especially if you are not someone to settle for just a basic setup.


----------



## joetemp75

^^ Me too I am already at around 300 and am looking at the blocks for the 470's


----------



## Mako0312

I don't settle right away.

Compression pieces are on the top of the list, and I plan on getting some AP-15s. I plan on adding little by little. If I get this second job it'll be a lot quicker.


----------



## Gillymonster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312;13834445*
> I don't settle right away.
> 
> Compression pieces are on the top of the list, and I plan on getting some AP-15s. I plan on adding little by little. If I get this second job it'll be a lot quicker.


One of the XSPC kits would definitely be a good choice for a starting point especially if you are going to slowly increase your loop and add extra fans etc. As it will allow you to get your CPU underwater for a very accommodating price indeed!

I decided to use the RS/RX kits purely for this reason. It just happens that after I ordered just the first 360 kit to run my dual GPU setup, Household 6 authorized my purchase of the rest of the kit to make it a complete loop instead of having my CPU on the closed loop 570LX kit.


----------



## Mako0312

Sweet. I'll defiantly be looking into the RX 360 then. Can't wait. Is the tubing good that comes with the kit?


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312;13834634*
> Sweet. I'll defiantly be looking into the RX 360 then. Can't wait. Is the tubing good that comes with the kit?


Yeah the tubing it fine that it comes with. But if you want it to look nicer buy some colored tubing.


----------



## fazio93

yea the tubing will turn brown within a day for most people, but that's just the tubing reacting with the water. it's normal.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312;13834634*
> Sweet. I'll defiantly be looking into the RX 360 then. Can't wait. Is the tubing good that comes with the kit?


Nah, the tubing is pretty lousy. It will cloud up and look bad after a few months.


----------



## HiLuckyB

*New*










*3 weeks*


----------



## Kahbrohn

I just love that sewage cooling water look.

Plasticizers in the plastic tubing itself. Get either plasticizer free tubing (Tygon for example) or go with Primochill colored tubing which seems to resist this effect some.


----------



## Gillymonster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13835145*
> *New*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3 weeks*


This is why I went with black tubing!


----------



## Sean Webster

Whats up with your tubing lol. mine is the same as the day i got it...7 months ago


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;13835458*
> Whats up with your tubing lol. mine is the same as the day i got it...7 months ago


Really? Because you would be the only one that I have seen








That was when I first started, This is my pc now.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13835145*
> *New*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3 weeks*


If my tubing makes it look like I am using semen to cool my CPU I'm gonna wait a bit longer to get UV-Blue tubing, when I get the cash >_>


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13835689*
> If my tubing makes it look like I am using semen to cool my CPU I'm gonna wait a bit longer to get UV-Blue tubing, when I get the cash >_>


8 feet of tubing cost me $12.80







It doen't cost much, And makes the loop look so much better


----------



## Alex132

I'm in south africa, it costs $60 here >_>


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13835947*
> I'm in south africa, it costs $60 here >_>


Don't bother then. It is just a waste. Get some when you need to.


----------



## Greenback

ok I'm confused can some1 with an RX360 tell me what size it is as the actuall XSPC site gives 2 different ones

on the site it is Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH)
in the shop it is Dimensions: 125x58.5x410mm (WxDxH)

I know it doesn't seem alot but could make the difference if I can get it in the top of my nzxt phantom and clear motherboard or I need to go RS360


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;13835963*
> Don't bother then. It is just a waste. Get some when you need to.


IF it turns semen-coloured then I will


----------



## Alex132

EDIT: wrong thread, again


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13836385*
> IF it turns semen-coloured then I will


lol


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13836223*
> ok I'm confused can some1 with an RX360 tell me what size it is as the actuall XSPC site gives 2 different ones
> 
> on the site it is Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH)
> in the shop it is Dimensions: 125x58.5x410mm (WxDxH)
> 
> I know it doesn't seem alot but could make the difference if I can get it in the top of my nzxt phantom and clear motherboard or I need to go RS360


I have the RS so I can't tell you but maybe you can send that very same question to the support e-mail on the XSPC site and they can clarify for you. Dahzong at XSPC is pretty quick in answering this type of question.

What do you plan on cooling with that radiator? Maybe then we can tell you if the RS radiator is enough for you or not.


----------



## Greenback

Only the cpu atm but may do the 2xgpu at some point depending if can get full blocks or my gfx cards as they are non ref just did a quick test with a bit of cardboard and I could get it if I move it to 1 side but if I need to get to ram would mean taking out rad


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13836908*
> Only the cpu atm but may do the 2xgpu at some point depending if can get full blocks or my gfx cards as they are non ref just did a quick test with a bit of cardboard and I could get it if I move it to 1 side but if I need to get to ram would mean taking out rad


Go with the RX then. A CPU and a GPU should be handled adequately with the RS. A second GPU may start to tax that radiator a bit IMO. Unless someone else can confirm the measurements, I'd send XSPC a quick short e-mail. Let him know that you have a different measurement and see what he says. They may have changed something since they uploaded the data onto their website and have not updated it as of yet.


----------



## Greenback

funnily enough the FAQ in this group has the same 2 different dimensions

Well wasn't expecting a reply this time of night
but for anybody else who needs this info the site is the correct one, the shop will be updated tomorrow though I don't know if he relised it's sunday


----------



## Busyhand

Can someone help me out here! Core 0 on my 2600K is 15c cooler than the rest of the cores. I tried reseating my cpu, but its not helping. I am using arctic silver 5 paste.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13837509*
> Can someone help me out here! Core 0 on my 2600K is 15c cooler than the rest of the cores. I tried reseating my cpu, but its not helping. I am using arctic silver 5 paste.


Have you tryed HWMonitor to make sure it's showing the same temp's? I use core temp, But I find it read's my CPU 2-5c hotter then HWMonitor and EVGA E-LEET Tuning Utility from my motherboard.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13837551*
> Have you tryed HWMonitor to make sure it's showing the same temp's? I use core temp, But I find it read's my CPU 2-5c hotter then HWMonitor and EVGA E-LEET Tuning Utility from my motherboard.


Yea, I just reseated the block and my temps got insanely bad.







i should have left it the way it was before


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13838180*
> Yea, I just reseated the block and my temps got insanely bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i should have left it the way it was before


Your temps look sorta high. Please tell me you took the clear plastic film off the RASA block.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13838382*
> Your temps look sorta high. Please tell me you took the clear plastic film off the RASA block.


Yea, and I could see my reflection too. I think I might have to take the motherboard out, and reseat the block on a table to make sure its flat on the cpu. These temps are with 1.52volts @ 5GHz HT enabled with LinX + AVX.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13838463*
> Yea, and I could see my reflection too. I think I might have to take the motherboard out, and reseat the block on a table to make sure its flat on the cpu. These temps are with 1.52volts @ 5GHz HT enabled with LinX + AVX.


Well 1.52v is really high, So im not surprised at your temps


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13838773*
> Well 1.52v is really high, So im not surprised at your temps


The first core would never ever go higher than 67c load with LinX and the others would sky rocket to 82c and that's the problem.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13838832*
> The first core would never ever go higher than 67c load with LinX and the others would sky rocket to 82c and that's the problem.


Yes but 1.52v way higher then you should be using for 24/7. From what I have seen that is the MAX the chip can take, And I would only use that for benchmarks. I would stay around 1.4 for a 24/7 clock


----------



## nykeiscool

Question... I really don't like the bay drive res/pump idea rather mount like a t virus pump inside my case is it possible to take the pump out of the reservoir and purchase any other one...


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13839068*
> Question... I really don't like the bay drive res/pump idea rather mount like a t virus pump inside my case is it possible to take the pump out of the reservoir and purchase any other one...


You can't remove the pump without breaking it out of the res


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13839068*
> Question... I really don't like the bay drive res/pump idea


just wondering, but why?


----------



## nykeiscool

Visuals.. Personally just like a clean front.. And I feel like your tubing placement is very restricted if u go with. A bay resrvoir


----------



## wermad

Mb, can we link Martin's review of the Rasa block since it tests it w/ a SB chip?

I can't count how many "what temps can I can get with a SB cpu???" questions I've come across.

Just my suggestion.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/05/...cpu-xspc-rasa/

Rasa arrives this Tuesday


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


You can't remove the pump without breaking it out of the res










Damn dissapointing in a way thanks though! Lol who knows I might just do that to avoid buying a separate reservoir


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nykeiscool*


Damn dissapointing in a way thanks though! Lol who knows I might just do that to avoid buying a separate reservoir


XSPC does offer bay reservoirs where you can stick in DDC(s) or a D5 pump(s).


----------



## Khalam

those temps are really way to high for your cooling dude, i get temps like that at 1.6v with kuhler 920 which should be no where near rasa...


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


XSPC does offer bay reservoirs where you can stick in DDC(s) or a D5 pump(s).


I recently got one for my MCP655... and I love it. Dead silent and a real space saver.


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13843209*
> I recently got one for my MCP655... and I love it. Dead silent and a real space saver.


Oh so basically putting the pump inside the reservoir Supresses the noise ? Makes sense.... However what I was getting at was I wanted to take it out so I could use it for a different reservoir (non drive bay) lol but meh if it really helps with silencing maybe I'll just leave it the way it is when I get the kit


----------



## GoodInk

Does anyone know where to get the inner o-ring for the CPU block? Opened mine up to check to see if it needed cleaning and the o-ring seems to have stretched and will not fit back in to the grove. On a good note, there was almost nothing in the block. But I didn't have enough TIM on the CPU, about 1/8 was not covered so hopefully I'll get better temps once it is backup and running.


----------



## Yukss

hello guys, i own a rasa 750 360 kit bougth from frozen cpu, and also a ek waterblock to the gpu, and my pump just creashed 2 days ago, here is the whole thread about it,

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1039520-my-xspc-rasa-360-pump-just.html

pump picture:









i already contacted XSPC and the will send me a new one...


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;13845202*
> hello guys, i own a rasa 750 360 kit bougth from frozen cpu, and also a ek waterblock to the gpu, and my pump just creashed 2 days ago, here is the whole thread about it,
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1039520-my-xspc-rasa-360-pump-just.html
> 
> pump picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i already contacted XSPC and the will send me a new one...


XSPC do seem to have great customer service!


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk;13845064*
> Does anyone know where to get the inner o-ring for the CPU block? Opened mine up to check to see if it needed cleaning and the o-ring seems to have stretched and will not fit back in to the grove. On a good note, there was almost nothing in the block. But I didn't have enough TIM on the CPU, about 1/8 was not covered so hopefully I'll get better temps once it is backup and running.


Contact XSPC, or one of the vendors to see what they can do.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13844981*
> Oh so basically putting the pump inside the reservoir Supresses the noise ? Makes sense.... However what I was getting at was I wanted to take it out so I could use it for a different reservoir (non drive bay) lol but meh if it really helps with silencing maybe I'll just leave it the way it is when I get the kit


I know it's more of a preference thing, but I really like the bay Res/Pump.


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13835689*
> If my tubing makes it look like I am using semen to cool my CPU I'm gonna wait a bit longer to get UV-Blue tubing, when I get the cash >_>


Though from what I hear, the chemical properties of semen allow it to have a high heat capacity, thus making heat transfer from your components to the semen much more efficient.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13846023*
> Though from what I hear, the chemical properties of semen allow it to have a high heat capacity, thus making heat transfer from your components to the semen much more efficient.


so that would be 1-2l of semen may take a while to get enough to fill the loop


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13846123*
> so that would be 1-2l of semen may take a while to get enough to fill the loop


Or you could go to a local farm and shame yourself for a few degrees drop in temps. I'm sure the true enthusiast would do this


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;13845202*
> hello guys, i own a rasa 750 360 kit bougth from frozen cpu, and also a ek waterblock to the gpu, and my pump just creashed 2 days ago, here is the whole thread about it,
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1039520-my-xspc-rasa-360-pump-just.html
> 
> pump picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i already contacted XSPC and the will send me a new one...


Sorry for your loss dude, and I would be pissed off myself. Just out of curiosity, did you have your kit setup as follows -> pump/res->rad->cpu->gpu->pump/res. I am just seeing trend around the net that the people who are losing pumps early have their setup in this direction. Some sites even recommend rad before pump or it will end up in the dump. I am just a watercooling noob who's learning how to prolong the life of his WC system.


----------



## Sean Webster

i go pump to rad to cpu to pump and its been fine for the last 7 months


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13846134*
> or you could go to a local farm and shame yourself for a few degrees drop in temps. I'm sure the true enthusiast would do this


o_o


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13846150*
> Sorry for your loss dude, and I would be pissed off myself. Just out of curiosity, did you have your kit setup as follows -> pump/res->rad->cpu->gpu->pump/res. I am just seeing trend around the net that the people who are losing pumps early have their setup in this direction. Some sites even recommend rad before pump or it will end up in the dump. I am just a watercooling noob who's learning how to prolong the life of his WC system.


yes that`s the way i have my loop ( pump/res->rad->cpu->gpu->pump/res) i maybe considering change to pump/res->cpu>gpu>rad->pump/res


----------



## Sean Webster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13846297*
> o_o


agreed^


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by Busyhand
> Sorry for your loss dude, and I would be pissed off myself. Just out of curiosity, did you have your kit setup as follows -> pump/res->rad->cpu->gpu->pump/res. I am just seeing trend around the net that the people who are losing pumps early have their setup in this direction. Some sites even recommend rad before pump or it will end up in the dump. I am just a watercooling noob who's learning how to prolong the life of his WC system.


yes that`s the way i have my loop ( pump/res->rad->cpu->gpu->pump/res) i maybe considering change to pump/res->cpu>gpu>rad->pump/res


----------



## Alex132

Would you see any difference from going:
Pump/res --> Rad --> CPU --> (GPU --> ) Pump/res
or
Pump/res --> CPU --> (GPU --> ) Rad --> Pump/res


----------



## Greenback

I thought it didn't matter about order after res>pump>then any way but obviously with the rasa you have no choice


----------



## Yukss

well this is my secod loop and i always try to pass the water frist thorugth the radiator then the blocks,, and my temps were great, my cpu oced at 4ghz 1.28v never pass above 65Cº on full load and my gou never pass above 55cº


----------



## Boyboyd

My GPU loads at 38 degrees, and it's silent. Go Ap-15s.


----------



## Jobotoo

I have the Rad right after the Pump/Res and my temps are usually in the 30's. I hardly never see 40's.

I'm OC'd to 4.6GHz.

I have stock fans.


----------



## Yukss

omg what a pain, i have to install intel`s crap stock cooling and the nvidia gtx 570 stock cooling back...


----------



## Kiggold

Just ordered my kit with a GPU block as well (and extra barbs). The parts are going to arrive this week and ill be putting it together next weekend (with plenty of pictures of course  ) Here is the link to my original thread.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiggold;13848110*
> Just ordered my kit with a GPU block as well (and extra barbs). The parts are going to arrive this week and ill be putting it together next weekend (with plenty of pictures of course  ) Here is the link to my original thread.


Congrats! I can't wait to see it all pit together.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thealex132;13846634*
> Would you see any difference from going:
> Pump/res --> Rad --> CPU --> (GPU --> ) Pump/res
> or
> Pump/res --> CPU --> (GPU --> ) Rad --> Pump/res


Your pump won't be on the warmer end of the loop with it getting the coolant from the rad first.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13845264*
> XSPC do seem to have great customer service!


Indeed!! I've spoken to Paul at XSPC a few times and he's been nothing but fantastic every time. He even replies to emails outside of standard business hours on his mobile.
XSPC: Customer service done right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;13847425*
> omg what a pain, i have to install intel`s crap stock cooling and the nvidia gtx 570 stock cooling back...


Sorry to hear that.
Where most guys would see a fine derrière and say "Dat ass!!", I'm looking at that SwordM and saying "Dat case!!!"








How did it cost, if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13857688*
> Where most guys would see a fine derrière and say "Dat ass!!", I'm looking at that SwordM and saying "Dat case!!!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did it cost, if you don't mind me asking?


SwordM VD5000BNA PC Case £230.59 if that helps


----------



## nykeiscool

Well pulled the trigger and ordered my kit last night.. Can't wait its going in my new rig had an i7930 last time around i didn't even OC it and one day i checked temps and they were at 80ish (had to replace the paste) but geezus thats horrible.. so i swore to myself never go with stock cooling again! Can't wait got my asus p67 board and drives just set up in my case now cant wait to mess around and configure my loop!


----------



## [Adz]

80c at stock suggests that you probably didn't have the heatsink on correctly, or maybe a poor TIM application.


----------



## wermad

I know XSPC says the Rasa is compatible w/ SB, but do I use the 1156 backplate? My old and sold supreme hf had a universal back plate and it did fit on my sb cpu. Just checking, she comes in tomorrow







. In the mean time, I'll be fitting the Hk blocks that just arrived


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;13860946*
> I know XSPC says the Rasa is compatible w/ SB, but do I use the 1156 backplate? My old and sold supreme hf had a universal back plate and it did fit on my sb cpu. Just checking, she comes in tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . In the mean time, I'll be fitting the Hk blocks that just arrived


1156 and 1155 use the same mounting. So you just use the 1156 plate.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13861001*
> 1156 and 1155 use the same mounting. So you just use the 1156 plate.


+1 in agreement for this. A small mercy bestowed upon us by Intel, amongst their frequent changing of sockets.


----------



## terence52

use the 1156* mounting. its fits exactly


----------



## sgt.killla

is it better to mount the radiator on the out side of the case?

im getting a haf x and i know the tRS360 Radiator will fit inside...


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgt.killla;13861934*
> is it better to mount the radiator on the out side of the case?
> 
> im getting a haf x and i know the tRS360 Radiator will fit inside...


Mount it inside for a cleaner look. The HAF X has the exact mounting holes to do it so why not!


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgt.killla*


is it better to mount the radiator on the out side of the case?

im getting a haf x and i know the tRS360 Radiator will fit inside...



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*


Mount it inside for a cleaner look. The HAF X has the exact mounting holes to do it so why not!



Inside will look cleaner. Outside will perform marginally better (but I don't have exact figures to show you on that).

It depends on what your priorities are - if you're radiator is functioning at maximum capacity to the point where you need the performance gain by having it outside the case, you'd be better off with another radiator. If your loop isn't going to suffocate inside the case, then put aesthetics first and mount it internally.


----------



## Busyhand

Anyone else getting crazy uneven temps with their Rasa CPU block? I tried reseating my block several times and the first core is always 10-15c cooler than the rest of the cores which is way too much. I think I need to lap my block and badly so the other cores can benefit too. Should I lap the block or just leave it the way it is, and will this void my warranty support?


----------



## Sean Webster

lol^ Use a good temp monitor like real temp or core temp then post back.









If it is the same then take apart your block and clean it.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13864482*
> Anyone else getting crazy uneven temps with their Rasa CPU block? I tried reseating my block several times and the first core is always 10-15c cooler than the rest of the cores which is way too much. I think I need to lap my block and badly so the other cores can benefit too. Should I lap the block or just leave it the way it is, and will this void my warranty support?


I know my i7 875K reads 63c on the first core and the rest are at 58-59c. Have you tryed other problems to make sure it's not just core temp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;13864529*
> lol^ Use a good temp monitor like real temp or core temp then post back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it is the same then take apart your block and clean it.


That is core temp







It's a desktop gadget.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13864482*
> Anyone else getting crazy uneven temps with their Rasa CPU block? I tried reseating my block several times and the first core is always 10-15c cooler than the rest of the cores which is way too much. I think I need to lap my block and badly so the other cores can benefit too. Should I lap the block or just leave it the way it is, and will this void my warranty support?


mine is even worst. I am using the Koolance 370, but I have the RASA CPU block as well but still in its box.


----------



## SeeD419

I enjoy my Rasa greatly.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanWebster;13864529*
> lol^ Use a good temp monitor like real temp or core temp then post back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it is the same then take apart your block and clean it.


That is coretemp 0.99.8^ which runs with cpu all meter.
HW monitor, real temp report the same results.

The block is clean too...it's a few days old.









I am certain the block needs to be lapped, as I never had this problem before with my previous H50.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;13864584*
> mine is even worst. I am using the Koolance 370, but I have the RASA CPU block as well but still in its box.


What about your load temps?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13864544*
> Have you tryed other problems to make sure it's not just core temp.


I tried various temp reading software and they all report the same







now my core 0 is at 58c and the rest read 71c in real temp, hw monitor etc all running separately.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;13864584*
> mine is even worst. I am using the Koolance 370, but I have the RASA CPU block as well but still in its box.


That looks like stuck sensors, it's normal with Core 2 45 nm processors.


----------



## Randomocity

So I finally got my RX360 kit in the mail yesterday, hook it up, put in the new fans, turn it on, and the radiator is leaking from the far end









RMA should hopefully go through today, though I'm seriously considering shelling out to have one overnighted to me for tomorrow. I was so close!


----------



## Nyt Ryda

I just got my Rasa RS360 kit in the mail yesterday too and will fit it this weekend. I just wanted to find out how many of you have had leaking Rasa kits ?
And how long should I leak test the kit for ?
How much coolant would the RS360 kit take with the 360 rad , block , pump and res ?


----------



## Boyboyd

I leak tested for an hour the first time, but after that every time I add something I only test for 10 minutes while it bleeds.


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Ok the I'll leak test for an hour .
Any idea how many litres of coolant I will need to fill the whole loop ?


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13866222*
> Ok the I'll leak test for an hour .
> Any idea how many litres of coolant I will need to fill the whole loop ?


not more than 3 probably more like 1.5 liters


----------



## Boyboyd

My CPU only loop held *exactly* 2 pints of water (1134ML).


----------



## levontraut

well i am waiting for my kit to arrive.

but my coolermaster aquagate max kit with cpu and gpu had 2.8 liters


----------



## Nyt Ryda

I've got 2.5l of coolant , that should be enough right ?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13866438*
> I've got 2.5l of coolant , that should be enough right ?


that will be more then enough coolant.
If you want something cheaper, just use a biocide and plain distilled water.


----------



## Boyboyd

Definitely.


----------



## sanitarium

Just ordered the Rasa 750 RS360 kit from frozencpu for my 2500k build.
Pictures to be had when it arrives!


----------



## Randomocity

Well, it seems that the included screws are too long for my Yate Loon fans, and somehow I managed to puncture one of the water channels. Sigh. 140 bucks, bye! Twas nice knowing you. N00b tax, paid in full. At least my new radiator will be here tomorrow. Note to self, be insanely meticulously careful when putting in the screws. I couldn't have been more than a tenth of an inch off either.

On that note, is there an easy way that i can use the existing tubing that i have or will i probably need to recut new tubes? It's pretty hard to screw in already barbed tubing, and removing the barbs is near impossible.


----------



## Nyt Ryda

What size were the Yate Loons in width ?
Has anyone else punctured the water channels like this ?
Im scared I do the same thing as my fans are 25mm wide


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13867711*
> Well, it seems that the included screws are too long for my Yate Loon fans, and somehow I managed to puncture one of the water channels. Sigh. 140 bucks, bye! Twas nice knowing you. N00b tax, paid in full. At least my new radiator will be here tomorrow. Note to self, be insanely meticulously careful when putting in the screws. I couldn't have been more than a tenth of an inch off either.
> 
> On that note, is there an easy way that i can use the existing tubing that i have or will i probably need to recut new tubes? It's pretty hard to screw in already barbed tubing, and removing the barbs is near impossible.


If it fits, sure use the same tubing.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13867711*
> Well, it seems that the included screws are too long for my Yate Loon fans, and somehow I managed to puncture one of the water channels. Sigh. 140 bucks, bye! Twas nice knowing you. N00b tax, paid in full. At least my new radiator will be here tomorrow. Note to self, be insanely meticulously careful when putting in the screws. I couldn't have been more than a tenth of an inch off either.
> 
> On that note, is there an easy way that i can use the existing tubing that i have or will i probably need to recut new tubes? It's pretty hard to screw in already barbed tubing, and removing the barbs is near impossible.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13867768*
> What size were the Yate Loons in width ?
> Has anyone else punctured the water channels like this ?
> Im scared I do the same thing as my fans are 25mm wide


If you use the stock screws they give you, you should be fine, just don't over tighten. I used longer screws because I added a rubber spacer, and on the other side I didn't have enough room for the spacer so stupidly used the long screws and no spacer, which punctured the heatpipe. >_<
New RX120 arrived this morning.


----------



## Jobotoo

I put a spacer too and kept an eye on the screws while putting them in. It is very easy to puncture the Rad.


----------



## [Adz]

I mentioned this in my worklog thread, so instead of typing it out again, I'm just going to quote it:
Quote:


> Yep - the screws went in too deep and broke the heatpipes, causing it to leak the moment water got to it. While I have nothing but high praises for XSPC customer support, whoever designed the radiator so that the heatpipes are directly below the screw holes, as opposed to having harmless fins under them instead, was the subject of my anger for several hours.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13869431*
> I put a spacer too and kept an eye on the screws while putting them in. It is very easy to puncture the Rad.


actually most rads are setup so the tubes that have fluid in them are not directly behind the screw holes, so if you screw to far into the rad, the most you will damage is the fins directly behind the screw hole. But puncturing the rad and making is leak is highly unlikely.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13869656*
> actually most rads are setup so the tubes that have fluid in them are not directly behind the screw holes, so if you screw to far into the rad, the most you will damage is the fins directly behind the screw hole. But puncturing the rad and making is leak is highly unlikely.


Take it from me on this one... the RX rads have the tubes DIRECTLY below the screw holes.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13869779*
> Take it from me on this one... the RX rads have the tubes DIRECTLY below the screw holes.


ok, well all of the rads, and any of the ones I have seen don't have the tubes behind the screw holes. I guess the end user can check to see if puncturing is a danger.


----------



## Greenback

thrasherht how did you mount the RS360 in your case and did you need to mod it at all?

Also is the thermal paste that comes with kit any good or would I be better getting some other type


----------



## wermad

My TFC fittings didn't fit the Rasa


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13870402*
> thrasherht how did you mount the RS360 in your case and did you need to mod it at all?
> 
> Also is the thermal paste that comes with kit any good or would I be better getting some other type


Personally I would get a different TIM.


----------



## Greenback

thats what I was thinking but best to ask first


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13867768*
> What size were the Yate Loons in width ?
> Has anyone else punctured the water channels like this ?
> Im scared I do the same thing as my fans are 25mm wide


They were 25mm fans. The screws that XPSC gives you in the kit are 1 1/4" screws, I ended up having to spend 15 bucks to get 100 1" screws overnighted so that I didn't have to deal with spacers and slack. The short screws that came with my 800D were fine for mounting the radiator to the top of the case, but the longer ones were too long and I didn't have enough spacers to get all three fans in.

To all who've said that the heat pipes aren't directly under the 360 screws, I ask you to kindly donate to the "Randomocity just shelled out 150 dollars because he screwed a screw too tight and ruptured the water pipe and destroyed his 85 dollar radiator because he's a n00b, fund"


----------



## bdpakaknox

my RS360 kit and XSPC razor block shipped out yesterday, its going to be a long week waiting!


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bdpakaknox;13873731*
> my RS360 kit and XSPC razor block shipped out yesterday, its going to be a long week waiting!


Congrats! I love my kit.


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13870402*
> thrasherht how did you mount the RS360 in your case and did you need to mod it at all?
> 
> Also is the thermal paste that comes with kit any good or would I be better getting some other type


Get different TIM if you can.

Many have installed an RS360 rad in their Phantom, check the phantom group.
http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/876350-official-nzxt-phantom-club.html

I'd like to know how to internally mount an RX360 in my phantom.


----------



## Blindsay

got a question for your all. I just installed a XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit for my friend and i know with my MCP35X pump it had a cable that went to the cpu header and sent rpm info and so the computer wouldnt freak out because it doesnt see any cpu fan attached. I didnt see anything like that with this kit and everytime we boot his machine it says cpu fan error.

ideas?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;13876701*
> got a question for your all. I just installed a XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit for my friend and i know with my MCP35X pump it had a cable that went to the cpu header and sent rpm info and so the computer wouldnt freak out because it doesnt see any cpu fan attached. I didnt see anything like that with this kit and everytime we boot his machine it says cpu fan error.
> 
> ideas?


Go into the bios and under system monitor you should find a setting to ignore CPU RPM's.


----------



## [Adz]

Commence leak-testing at 07:30 (10 minutes ago).
Within 10 minutes, the loudest thing in my rig in the PSU (though that is without any other fans running).


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13874226*
> Get different TIM if you can.
> 
> Many have installed an RS360 rad in their Phantom, check the phantom group.
> http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/876350-official-nzxt-phantom-club.html
> 
> I'd like to know how to internally mount an RX360 in my phantom.


Iv'e seen it done with the RX but both times they have modded the top by cuting out the 3rd fan then putting thin fans on the top under the plastic roof. If I had thought I may want to go water when I was buying the stuff for this rig I would of looked for a better case


----------



## Nytehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13878152*
> Iv'e seen it done with the RX but both times they have modded the top by cuting out the 3rd fan then putting thin fans on the top under the plastic roof. If I had thought I may want to go water when I was buying the stuff for this rig I would of looked for a better case


WC cases are expensive. For me it was the phantom for $80 or a HAF X. I can't afford an 800D. I have yet to see a thick or RX360 rad in a phantom, and never with even partial push/pull.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13878216*
> WC cases are expensive. For me it was the phantom for $80 or a HAF X. I can't afford an 800D. I have yet to see a thick or RX360 rad in a phantom, and never with even partial push/pull.


I got the 700D. Saved £70 by not having a window or hot-swap bays.


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Is there instructions on how to fit the rest of the RASA 750 RS360 kit besides the cpu block ?


----------



## sanitarium

Drill holes, run wires and hoses through holes if they needto be. Win.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nytehawk;13878216*
> WC cases are expensive. For me it was the phantom for $80 or a HAF X. I can't afford an 800D. I have yet to see a thick or RX360 rad in a phantom, and never with even partial push/pull.


would of been better with haf-x in that case if you wanted to go wc

rx360 in a nzxt phantom mod
http://www.nzxt.com/forum/showthread.php?8287-Modding-the-top-of-the-case./page2


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13879214*
> Is there instructions on how to fit the rest of the RASA 750 RS360 kit besides the cpu block ?


The CPU block has it's instructions. If you get a GPU block, that will come with instructions. The rest is simple:
Fit the radiator wherever you want inside, or outside, the case using the screws provided. Take your compression fittings or barbs and connect them to the res/pump, every radiator and every block.
Connect your pipes to the barbs/fittings in the correct order. If you've got compression fittings, tighten the outer ring. If you've got normal barbs, use whatever method you're using for additional security (i.e. zip ties, worm drives etc).
And that's it.


----------



## Nyt Ryda

With the kit came some black clips , how would I use them to attach the tubing to the barb ?
Is there more of a chance of the tubing leaking or being blown off the barb using the black clips supplied with the 1/2 barb and 7/16 tubing ?
Should I get compression fittings later on in the year ?


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13879395*
> With the kit came some black clips , how would I use them to attach the tubing to the barb ?
> Is there more of a chance of the tubing leaking or being blown off the barb using the black clips supplied with the 1/2 barb and 7/16 tubing ?
> Should I get compression fittings later on in the year ?


Speaking from experience, compression barbs are just for show, the barbs that come with this kit are just fine with 7/16 tubing, and with the clamps that come with this kit, there's no way any of the tubing will be leaking. My kit was leak tested if my dumb ass hadn't punctured my radiator. I get my new one at 3pm today! So excited.

EDIT: Also, some advice I wish I had when I first started putting the thing together, attach the barbs to the components first, and then attach the tubing. It's really quite hard to screw on tubing between two places when one or both sides of the tube are immobile.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13879395*
> With the kit came some black clips , how would I use them to attach the tubing to the barb ?
> Is there more of a chance of the tubing leaking or being blown off the barb using the black clips supplied with the 1/2 barb and 7/16 tubing ?
> Should I get compression fittings later on in the year ?


Compression fittings are more aesthetically pleasing, but not necessary. Once your tubing is on the barb, just split the hose clamp (the black ring) and place it around the smooth part of the barb (not over the flange). Then just squeeze it closed as tight as you can and you're done.
There's no way it'll get blown off; that's just not going to happen.


----------



## teichu

does any one have trouble install 3 120mm fans with haf x and rampage iii extreme ?? because i think my 3 fans cant fit inside to the rad , so can i put on the top and remove 200mm fan?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


does any one have trouble install 3 120mm fans with haf x and rampage iii extreme ?? because i think my 3 fans cant fit inside to the rad , so can i put on the top and remove 200mm fan?


If the 942 is anything like the 932, you would need to remove that 200mm fan in order to install the rad inside the case. You would then be able to install the rad with the 3 fans attached.


----------



## teichu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


If the 942 is anything like the 932, you would need to remove that 200mm fan in order to install the rad inside the case. You would then be able to install the rad with the 3 fans attached.


Hi , you mean remove 200mm fan , and put those 3 120mm fans on top??


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


Hi , you mean remove 200mm fan , and put those 3 120mm fans on top??


Yep.. Like this:

Case-Fan-Radiator or Case-Radiator-Fan (as you look at it from top to bottom).

Here is a pix I borrowed from ilocos boy (forum member) showing you what I mean. You see the fans on top. on top of the fans is the radiator... and then the case on top of the radiator.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


thrasherht how did you mount the RS360 in your case and did you need to mod it at all?

Also is the thermal paste that comes with kit any good or would I be better getting some other type


I had to drill two holes in the top of the case so that I had two more screw holes, but other then that, no modding needed.


----------



## teichu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yep.. Like this:

Case-Fan-Radiator or Case-Radiator-Fan (as you look at it from top to bottom).

Here is a pix I borrowed from ilocos boy (forum member) showing you what I mean. You see the fans on top. on top of the fans is the radiator... and then the case on top of the radiator.


Hi , this is what i want to do exactly , but right now my case is i wont be able to put those 3 120mm fans inside the case , because it will touch and push the mobo , what i mean is remove the 200mm fans on top , and radiator still install inside but those 3 120mm fans will install on the top of case , you got me?


----------



## fazio93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


Hi , this is what i want to do exactly , but right now my case is i wont be able to put those 3 120mm fans inside the case , because it will touch and push the mobo , what i mean is remove the 200mm fans on top , and radiator still install inside but those 3 120mm fans will install on the top of case , you got me?


you can do that (it would be a pull configuration)
not sure about how efficient it would be with the case grill in between the fan and rad


----------



## wetfit9

You could do a rs rad up top in the push/pull. Some have been able to get an RX rad up top in p/p but depends on your mother board heat sinks as the fans will overlap your board a little and push up against most boards heat sink. You do a pull with the RX rad but I think you get better temps in push.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## badatgames18

here ya go: Super tight fit







. ... i don't think i have room for another rad for my 570s


----------



## nykeiscool

Just got my kit today! so excited already unboxed it.. this being my first loop kinda confused lurked this thread for weeks.. and im quite sure this question has been answered but what is the best setup for this? as far as in/outs go.. looking at it and a little lost as to where to start? i see people have the pump flow into the rad which than flows into the block and the block outs it to the res? is that correct?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13884006*
> looking at it and a little lost as to where to start


Clean everything first.

I had to run about a gallon of vinegar (followed by a gallon of distilled) through my loop over the course of 4 hours to get most of the crap out of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13884006*
> i see people have the pump flow into the rad which than flows into the block and the block outs it to the res? is that correct?


Yes. The pump introduces some heat into the loop so water is coldest fresh from the radiator. This is the water you want going into your parts.


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13884006*
> Just got my kit today! so excited already unboxed it.. this being my first loop kinda confused lurked this thread for weeks.. and im quite sure this question has been answered but what is the best setup for this? as far as in/outs go.. looking at it and a little lost as to where to start? i see people have the pump flow into the rad which than flows into the block and the block outs it to the res? is that correct?


the out port for the pump is the barb that is connected to the black pump int the res. it does not matter whether you take that to the block or rad first. it won't make a difference in temps if it's only a cpu-only loop. then the return in the hole lower down on the left side of the res.


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;13884078*
> Clean everything first.
> 
> I had to run about a gallon of vinegar (followed by a gallon of distilled) through my loop over the course of 4 hours to get most of the crap out of it.
> 
> Yes. The pump introduces some heat into the loop so water is coldest fresh from the radiator. This is the water you want going into your parts.


Thanks for the tip will definetly do that seeing as to how i dont even have a full computer yet.. (well at least the one im watercooling).. And ah that does make sense that the pump would actually generate hotter water it all comes together now! thanks man







.. Last but not least better safe than sorry think i have a hunch on this but for mounting this in my 700D im going to mount it inside on the top.. i'm using the kit fans should i mount them on to or the bottom of the rad? also am i using the same screws to screw in the fan to mount the rad?


----------



## Sean Webster

I mounted mine in the bottom of the rad sucking air in. It lowered my temps 3-5 degrees over exhausting air out.
Old pic of mine but whatever


----------



## teichu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;13882391*
> You could do a rs rad up top in the push/pull. Some have been able to get an RX rad up top in p/p but depends on your mother board heat sinks as the fans will overlap your board a little and push up against most boards heat sink. You do a pull with the RX rad but I think you get better temps in push.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


mmm..... i just change my mobo to rampage iii extreme , becuase if i install the radiator+ fans first , my mobo cant fit in haf x , because the fans will block the mobo .... so i have to remove those 3 120mm fans , then i can install the mobo , since everthing set up already , including the tube and reservoir also install ..... so should i be able to install those 3 push fans at end? because i dont really wanna do pull fans


----------



## Randomocity

Alright, so I finally installed my kit and booted my computer, but my cpu temps seem really high. My motherboard is reporting 46C idle temps at stock, and god only knows what it'll be at full load. I seem to have tiny little bubbles throughout my res/pump, is there anything i can do about that?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13886293*
> Alright, so I finally installed my kit and booted my computer, but my cpu temps seem really high. My motherboard is reporting 46C idle temps at stock, and god only knows what it'll be at full load. I seem to have tiny little bubbles throughout my res/pump, is there anything i can do about that?


First did you take the cover off the bottom of the cpu block? And have to tiped the case all around to get the air out of the rad?


----------



## Penumbra

Just recently installed my RX360 with 6 AP-15 in push/pull with a CPU block only and was messing around with the fan controller and noticed some interesting behaviors (at least to a noob). If i shut down all the AP-15s, the CPU temp would only creep up ~5-8C from 32 and stay there, with ambient at around 28C.

I would leave the fans off for about an hour or two and the temp would stay fairly steady at around 38C to 40C. That calls into question the effectiveness of my fan setup, or is it because 2 hours is too short since there is still enough "headroom" for the water to effectively absorb the heat, and the radiato'rs ability to dissipate w/o fans?

My rad is mounted internally up top in a Haf x, so perhaps the natural convection of the raising warm air helps cool the rads as it exits the case?

Finally, my rad is not hot to the touch like what I've read, but is it because I don't leave my computer on 24/7, hence the water had proper time to cool overnight?

Any insights to the above would be appreciated. Thanks!

ps. these are idle temps


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13886341*
> First did you take the cover off the bottom of the cpu block? And have to tiped the case all around to get the air out of the rad?


yes and yes.


----------



## B3RGY

How does this sound for a full kit?
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-CPU-watercooling-kit-pr-4780.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pro-LRT-UV-Red-Tubing-7-16in.-ID-X-5-8in.-OD-pr-4424.html
http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-G1-4-to-7-16-ID-5-8-OD-Compression-Fitting-pr-4804.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29167
the links are for a rasa RX360 kit, primoflex tubing, xspc compression fittings, and a xspc gtx 460 full cover waterblock, total is about ~$300


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13886544*
> yes and yes.


Well if your sure then you might really need to remount the cpu block, Because thats way to hot. What tim did you use? I have my best luck putting 5 dots of tim around the cpu.


----------



## Randomocity

Well, Real Temp and CoreTemp are showing different numbers with my idle temp being around 38C and my load temp maxing out at 74C with intel burn test. That's a little high, but I am running at 4.8Ghz @ 1.4V. Gonna try 5Ghz, but I dont think it's going to happen. Either way I'm probably going to reseat my heatsink and not use the crappy thermal paste that XPSC provided since my tuniq TX-4 was being a pain in the ass.


----------



## wermad

Rasa keeping my SB nice n cool @ 4.8, idle 30c, loads 55c


----------



## Randomocity

Question, for optimal OCing, should I turn eist off?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13887093*
> Question, for optimal OCing, should I turn eist off?


What's eist?


----------



## fazio93

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/464624-what-cpu-eist-function.html

if anything, it would keep your CPU cooler during idle with it enabled


----------



## SLam001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3RGY;13886616*
> How does this sound for a full kit?
> http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-CPU-watercooling-kit-pr-4780.html
> http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pro-LRT-UV-Red-Tubing-7-16in.-ID-X-5-8in.-OD-pr-4424.html
> http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-G1-4-to-7-16-ID-5-8-OD-Compression-Fitting-pr-4804.html
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29167
> the links are for a rasa RX360 kit, primoflex tubing, xspc compression fittings, and a xspc gtx 460 full cover waterblock, total is about ~$300


Looks good, but I'd add a kill coil or some sort of biocide like PT nuke.


----------



## nykeiscool

Well I've been running for about 3 hours no leaks! Using vinegar and water non distilled don't have any on hand so I'm definitely draining it in about an hour give or take and picking up some distilled tomorrow. As far as it goes with draining just take on hose off the rad and let it drain from there? Side note man this thing is quiet can't even hear it while it's outside my case!


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Randomocity*


Well, Real Temp and CoreTemp are showing different numbers with my idle temp being around 38C and my load temp maxing out at 74C with intel burn test. That's a little high, but I am running at 4.8Ghz @ 1.4V. Gonna try 5Ghz, but I dont think it's going to happen. Either way I'm probably going to reseat my heatsink and not use the crappy thermal paste that XPSC provided since my tuniq TX-4 was being a pain in the ass.


With the same settings and Arctic silver paste I get 28c idle and 67c load. However, one of my cores is always -10c or lower than the others and that one is now running at 57c load. Next week or so I am going to lap my block and hopefully I can share the 57c -/+ love to all my cores.

At 5GHz with 1.52v that one core will never exceed 67c while the others scream at 83c


----------



## Nyt Ryda

I just fitted the loop , how high must I fill the res with coolant ? Im using the pump/res combo XSPC gives with the RS360 kit . 
Must I fill it so that the level monitor on the front plate is completely covered ?


----------



## teichu

i just change my mobo to rampage iii extreme , becuase if i install the radiator+ fans first , my mobo cant fit in haf x , because the fans will block the mobo .... so i have to remove those 3 120mm fans , then i can install the mobo , since everthing set up already , including the tube and reservoir also install ..... so should i be able to install those 3 push fans at end? because i dont really wanna do pull fans


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


i just change my mobo to rampage iii extreme , becuase if i install the radiator+ fans first , my mobo cant fit in haf x , because the fans will block the mobo .... so i have to remove those 3 120mm fans , then i can install the mobo , since everthing set up already , including the tube and reservoir also install ..... so should i be able to install those 3 push fans at end? because i dont really wanna do pull fans


The RIIIE is mobo is really nice. Doesn't have the large VRM coolers running along the top to get in the way either.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda*


I just fitted the loop , how high must I fill the res with coolant ? Im using the pump/res combo XSPC gives with the RS360 kit . 
Must I fill it so that the level monitor on the front plate is completely covered ?


Fill it almost completely. You need to keep the impeller on the pump from sucking in air.


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Ok well I've installed it and filled the rad nearly full .
Good temps too . 30C Idle and 60C load at 4.158GHz at 1.3375v







Now adding two more fans for push pull so that theres 5 fans . I'll make it 6 once I buy more rad screws


----------



## Blameless

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nykeiscool*


Thanks for the tip will definetly do that seeing as to how i dont even have a full computer yet.. (well at least the one im watercooling).. And ah that does make sense that the pump would actually generate hotter water it all comes together now! thanks man







.. Last but not least better safe than sorry think i have a hunch on this but for mounting this in my 700D im going to mount it inside on the top.. i'm using the kit fans should i mount them on to or the bottom of the rad? also am i using the same screws to screw in the fan to mount the rad?


There are several ways to mount the rad/fans.

You can use the screws for the fans to mount the rad to the case if you intend to have a pull set up with air going out the top, a push setup with air coming in the top, or the opposite of these if you are mounting the rad on the bottom.

Install is much simpler if you mount the fans and radiator separately, however.

Just be careful not to use a screw that goes too far into the rad (quarter inch max). Any more and you are likely to bend fins (not a disaster) or buckle the channels in the radiator (destroys the radiator).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nykeiscool*


Well I've been running for about 3 hours no leaks! Using vinegar and water non distilled don't have any on hand so I'm definitely draining it in about an hour give or take and picking up some distilled tomorrow. As far as it goes with draining just take on hose off the rad and let it drain from there? Side note man this thing is quiet can't even hear it while it's outside my case!


Make sure you thoroughly flush all the vinegar out before you set things up for good. It's just to clean out the radiator and blocks, if it's left in the loop long term it will corrode things.

I set everything up on a table, fill the loop with vinegar, start the pump, let it run for 20 minutes, then empty it. Repeat this 2-3 more times with vinegar, then rinse it again (2-3) with distilled water. It's a hassle, but making the loop squeaky clean will mean the water you put in it to actually use will stay clean for a very long time. With a kill coil and/or a few drops of biocide, a thoroughly cleaned and well sealed loop should be good for at least a year, potentially much longer.


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Yay fully installed .
New Temps :
i7 920 D0 at 4.4GHz at 1.425v on XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit
Idle temps of 34C at 17C Ambiant with Load temps of around 65C


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;13893307*
> There are several ways to mount the rad/fans.
> 
> You can use the screws for the fans to mount the rad to the case if you intend to have a pull set up with air going out the top, a push setup with air coming in the top, or the opposite of these if you are mounting the rad on the bottom.
> 
> Install is much simpler if you mount the fans and radiator separately, however.
> 
> Just be careful not to use a screw that goes too far into the rad (quarter inch max). Any more and you are likely to bend fins (not a disaster) or buckle the channels in the radiator (destroys the radiator).
> 
> Also could I perhaps get like a t virus RES. and still use the bay pump just not the bay res
> 
> Make sure you thoroughly flush all the vinegar out before you set things up for good. It's just to clean out the radiator and blocks, if it's left in the loop long term it will corrode things.
> 
> I set everything up on a table, fill the loop with vinegar, start the pump, let it run for 20 minutes, then empty it. Repeat this 2-3 more times with vinegar, then rinse it again (2-3) with distilled water. It's a hassle, but making the loop squeaky clean will mean the water you put in it to actually use will stay clean for a very long time. With a kill coil and/or a few drops of biocide, a thoroughly cleaned and well sealed loop should be good for at least a year, potentially much longer.


Thanks I wish I had your method last night







. Unfouetanetly I just did one rinse with a mix of vinegar / water.. Seeing as to how I don't actually have my system running yet... I don't mind doing it again.. If you think that would be a good idea!

EDIT:

Also could I perhaps get like a t virus RES. and still use the bay pump just not the bay res


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13894817*
> Thanks I wish I had your method last night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Unfouetanetly I just did one rinse with a mix of vinegar / water.. Seeing as to how I don't actually have my system running yet... I don't mind doing it again.. If you think that would be a good idea!


Depends on how dirty it still is.

Smell the inside of the res or rad. If it smells like like oil, strong plastic, or metally, it could probably use some more cleaning.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless;13894913*
> Depends on how dirty it still is.
> 
> Smell the inside of the res or rad. If it smells like like oil, strong plastic, or metally, it could probably use some more cleaning.


Wouldn't that method get flux in the cpu and gpu blocks? Or do you mean just the res + pump + rad?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13894943*
> Wouldn't that method get flux in the cpu and gpu blocks? Or do you mean just the res + pump + rad?


I did the blocks separately from the rad, but if the radiator has been rinsed well I doubt there would be any risk in doing everything together.

You are right though, a fresh from the box radiator should not be connected to a block.


----------



## Boyboyd

When i moved my RS rad from the middle holes to the bottom I managed to get some more air out of it. It gave me an idea, next time i set up the loop i'm going to cut the tubing to the right length and then get 100% of the air out of the radiator before i screw it all down.

Temps have barely been affected though. Maybe 1 degree less.


----------



## bmckenna

Ok, I've read up a bit on the kits and have a question. I have a Corsair 600T and would like to keep my loop internal if at all possible. I see the RX240 kit can handle a CPU and GPU according to the link from the FAQ page. Unfortunately, without some serious modding to the front of the case to mount it there, I don't think I'll be able to keep the radiator internal, as it won't fit in the top radiator mount. Would it be an equal or nearly-so alternative to get the RS240 kit and an RX120mm radiator for the rear 120mm fan port for a CPU+GPU loop, or would that not come close to the RX240 and I should just bite the bullet and mount the RX240 off the back of the case?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Havet been here for a while just checking in and saying my rasa stuff is running great. Just wished my case had better airflow to get lower temps.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmckenna;13896404*
> Ok, I've read up a bit on the kits and have a question. I have a Corsair 600T and would like to keep my loop internal if at all possible. I see the RX240 kit can handle a CPU and GPU according to the link from the FAQ page. Unfortunately, without some serious modding to the front of the case to mount it there, I don't think I'll be able to keep the radiator internal, as it won't fit in the top radiator mount. Would it be an equal or nearly-so alternative to get the RS240 kit and an RX120mm radiator for the rear 120mm fan port for a CPU+GPU loop, or would that not come close to the RX240 and I should just bite the bullet and mount the RX240 off the back of the case?


Would you top mount that RS240 along with fans? You could place the RX120 internally and move the fan to the outside of the case and add a grill to the fan. I believe that way the rear mounted rad would not interfere with a top mounted RS240 + fans.

I am tempted to say it would work for a CPU plus a single GPU. Here you may want to think about spreading the rads between blocks... not sure if one rad leading into the other and then moving on to the blocks would work or not.


----------



## Randomocity

Alright, here's another question. As a new guy to water cooling, I never flushed out my radiator prior to installing my loop. Is that absolutely essential? Also, is there an easy way to reuse already hooked up tubing? Because I'm using regular barbs, every time I have to open the loop I have to cut the barbs out of the tubing and use new tubing to retube the system and it's getting kind of expensive. Lastly, is there an easier way to flush the loop without a T-connector? Things i wish i knew prior that I didnt see in guides on this site.

Thanks for all your help.


----------



## bmckenna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13896529*
> Would you top mount that RS240 along with fans? You could place the RX120 internally and move the fan to the outside of the case and add a grill to the fan. I believe that way the rear mounted rad would not interfere with a top mounted RS240 + fans.
> 
> I am tempted to say it would work for a CPU plus a single GPU. Here you may want to think about spreading the rads between blocks... not sure if one rad leading into the other and then moving on to the blocks would work or not.


The RS240 would be top mounted. Not sure if I'd have push/pull fans on the RS240...from the pictures I've seen, it would be too tight. The fans mount on the exterior of the case, but under a grill, so the only thickness would be the radiator up top. The RX120 could be done push/pull, with one fan outside the case if need be (have seen pics of the Corsair H70 mounted push/pull with everything inside the case, and someone mentioned the radiators are about the same thickness)...but if need be because the two radiators would interfere with each other, only one fan outside the case is acceptable in my book for the RX120, as long as the cooling is decent.

My plan was res-block-rad-block-rad-res to get some cooling in between the blocks.

My GPU is currently stock, and my CPU is oc'ed to 4.5ghz. Currently running about 60 deg C CPU on hottest core running folding SMP core, Prime95 hits 67 deg C but I also have rather high voltage as I haven't begun the lowering process/stability testing yet. GPU runs about 60 deg C running folding GPU core.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13896531*
> Alright, here's another question. As a new guy to water cooling, I never flushed out my radiator prior to installing my loop. Is that absolutely essential? Also, is there an easy way to reuse already hooked up tubing? Because I'm using regular barbs, every time I have to open the loop I have to cut the barbs out of the tubing and use new tubing to retube the system and it's getting kind of expensive. Lastly, is there an easier way to flush the loop without a T-connector? Things i wish i knew prior that I didnt see in guides on this site.
> 
> Thanks for all your help.


You never answered my question to your previous post.

If you look at the pics of my system you will see that I created a drain line from the GPU block. I saw someone else on this thread do it. It has made my life infinitesimally better. It is so easy to drain my loop and has saved me a headache or two.


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13897200*
> You never answered my question to your previous post.
> 
> If you look at the pics of my system you will see that I created a drain line from the GPU block. I saw someone else on this thread do it. It has made my life infinitesimally better. It is so easy to drain my loop and has saved me a headache or two.


eist is enhanced intel speedstep, and after fazio's answer and a little bit of research, the answer to that question is that it doesnt affect performance.


----------



## Jobotoo

Did you see my drain port?


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLam001;13888782*
> Looks good, but I'd add a kill coil or some sort of biocide like PT nuke.


yeah i was going to add that, just forgot to put it in the post


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13897549*
> Did you see my drain port?


no. have a link to your machine pics?


----------



## badatgames18

my kit didn't come with a silver kill coil but i found some left over copper sulfate i bought (biocide) from frozen cpu... is it okay to use that exclusively in place of a kill coil? I won't experience any algae or microbial growth will i?


----------



## hallaor

RASA this kit rs360, fed up one block to vga?
or more need a radiator? and the pump could stand it?


----------



## nykeiscool

Well I decided to go with what was last suggested to me ( rinse and repeat with vinegar / distilled) all is well. But I noticed something if I leave the reservoir half full I can hear water flowing.. If I fill it to the top I can't hear any water flowing until I shake the rad a bit but the sound of flow dissapears after about 5 minutes... ( I'd imagine its a good sign to hear water flowing and bad not to?) Also I guess it's important to note that I'm using solid color tubing so I can't really check for air bubbles so is there something else I can check for?


----------



## [Adz]

Finally got my loop up and running








My first post in this thread: #176
Post with photos of the whole thing set up: #8066

Award for taking the longest to assemble a loop?








Click for high-res.


Took a photo because the rig wasn't connected to the net at the time so I couldn't upload it.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13899397*
> Well I decided to go with what was last suggested to me ( rinse and repeat with vinegar / distilled) all is well. But I noticed something if I leave the reservoir half full I can hear water flowing.. If I fill it to the top I can't hear any water flowing until I shake the rad a bit but the sound of flow dissapears after about 5 minutes... ( I'd imagine its a good sign to hear water flowing and bad not to?) Also I guess it's important to note that I'm using solid color tubing so I can't really check for air bubbles so is there something else I can check for?


Aaaahhhhhhh!!! No!

Please fill the Res right away. If your sucking air (probably what your hearing) you will burn out the pump. You want to have the Res almost full.

I don't hear anything either, which is great.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13899491*
> Finally got my loop up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first post in this thread: #176
> Post with photos of the whole thing set up: #8066
> 
> Award for taking the longest to assemble a loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click for high-res.
> 
> 
> Took a photo because the rig wasn't connected to the net at the time so I couldn't upload it.


Congrats!!! Feels great don't it?

I'll send you your award later.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hallaor;13898755*
> RASA this kit rs360, fed up one block to vga?
> or more need a radiator? and the pump could stand it?


Sort if hard to understand, but if you are saying what I think you are saying, then yes it is enough, but personally I would go with the RX360.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13897793*
> no. have a link to your machine pics?


They are in the OP, or should be. I'd give you the link but I'm typing this on my phone and can't get the link. I'll double check later and post the link if it's not in the OP.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13899728*
> Congrats!!! Feels great don't it?
> 
> I'll send you your award later.


It is such a relief that it actually works. First time I tried, the reservoir was leaking. Second time I tried, the radiator leaked all over the graphics card. This time it finally worked. I was actually kinda scared to even switch it on to begin with


----------



## Jobotoo

I know the feeling. My hand was shaking as I went to hit the power button . . .

Don't think about it anymore, it just works.

Now I want to upgrade my case to a TH10 and upgrade my GPU.


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


Aaaahhhhhhh!!! No!

Please fill the Res right away. If your sucking air (probably what your hearing) you will burn out the pump. You want to have the Res almost full.

I don't hear anything either, which is great.


WHEW thank god! For your post! Definitely fixed that ASAP although it did run like that for maybe an hour but all seems well still don't have a full system so I can't boot up but the pump is still going from what I can hear


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nykeiscool;13900083*
> WHEW thank god! For your post! Definitely fixed that ASAP although it did run like that for maybe an hour but all seems well still don't have a full system so I can't boot up but the pump is still going from what I can hear


Just glad you got to it on time!









Can't wait till your rig is all setup, with pics.


----------



## nykeiscool

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


Just glad you got to it on time!









Can't wait till your rig is all setup, with pics.


You and me both bud! Definitely will contribute with pics only a matter of time


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


Just glad you got to it on time!









Can't wait till your rig is all setup, with pics.


Loving your setup. I finally posted a pic on the OP, although at the moment my camera is dead, so my droid camera will have to do for now. I'll post better pictures in the next day or two when my camera battery recharges. At least my temps are down to WAY more manageable levels now, dropping from 4.8 to 4.5Ghz dropped my temps by 10C.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Randomocity*


Loving your setup. I finally posted a pic on the OP, although at the moment my camera is dead, so my droid camera will have to do for now. I'll post better pictures in the next day or two when my camera battery recharges. At least my temps are down to WAY more manageable levels now, dropping from 4.8 to 4.5Ghz dropped my temps by 10C.


I OC'ed to 5Ghz fairly easily, but I like my temps at 4.6Ghz A LOT better.









Any pics will be great! I wish I would have taken more . . . I promised myself to take more when I get a new case, in a couple months. Have you seen the cases Case Labs is making? They are AWESOME! (Pricetag is up there though.) Look at this thread http://www.overclock.net/case-labs/9...-shipping.html

Oh, that is there small case by the way, lol! They have two larger sizes. One that fits two motherboards inside . . .


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


I OC'ed to 5Ghz fairly easily, but I like my temps at 4.6Ghz A LOT better.









Any pics will be great! I wish I would have taken more . . . I promised myself to take more when I get a new case, in a couple months. Have you seen the cases Case Labs is making? They are AWESOME! (Pricetag is up there though.) Look at this thread http://www.overclock.net/case-labs/9...-shipping.html

Oh, that is there small case by the way, lol! They have two larger sizes. One that fits two motherboards inside . . .










As much as I can appreciate Case-Labs' work, their cases are just too obscenely big for my taste. I guess I fail at the overclock.net extravagance test, but the 800D at 250 bucks is more than enough case than i'll ever use. It's a little short on HDD space, which makes me kinda sad, but other than that, this thing is a MONSTER. (All caps, no less). 5Ghz worked stable too, but I was literally pumping 1.48V through my chip, and my temps got up into the 80s really quickly. Honestly, even as a person that does a lot of compiling, 4.5 GHz should be more than plenty for me. Especially considering it dropped my core voltage to 1.28V, which is definitely easier on the power consumption meter. Havent broken 70C yet in temps, which makes me even happier. Bought MX-4 to replace XPSC's craptastic TIM, so that should bring my temps down even further.


----------



## Jobotoo

I agree in case labs being BIG. At this point it's what I really want.







. I love the 800D also, and it was my dream case for quite some time.

4.5Ghz is great, not to mention the volts you have it at.

My idle temps are usually 10C above ambient. In the coming months I will be working on bringing that down some with better fans (GT-2150) in push/pull and possibly adding more RADs. I will probably also upgrade my GPUs to either GTX 580 sli, or GTX 590 quad sli for Xmas (depending on what Kepler brings to the table). Right now those upgrades ate just dreams, but maybe . . .


----------



## ezveedub

The Case Labs M8 or M10 are really not as large as the others cases. It's shorter than my HAF 932, but of course wider, but it makes running a water loop system so much easier. I just pulled my Asus RIIIE mobo and I'm installing my Gigabyte UD7 mobo now. The mobo tray makes working on the system so simple.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13902566*
> The Case Labs M8 or M10 are really not as large as the others cases. It's shorter than my HAF 932, but of course wider, but it makes running a water loop system so much easier. I just pulled my Asus RIIIE mobo and I'm installing my Gigabyte UD7 mobo now. The mobo tray makes working on the system so simple.


I love how wide they are and how much easier a water-cooling setup can be with one of these cases.


----------



## Boyboyd

I'm definitely getting a fan controller soon. Not to control the speed of the fans, but because all my fans are the 3 pin header types and i hate using the molex adaptors. It looks so messy.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13904544*
> I'm definitely getting a fan controller soon. Not to control the speed of the fans, but because all my fans are the 3 pin header types and i hate using the molex adaptors. It looks so messy.


Two words... Sunbeam Rheosmart.


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13904598*
> Two words... Sunbeam Rheosmart.


Actually, I took a look at the sunbeam rheosmart and ended up opting for the Scythe Kaze Master Pro. It was about 10 bucks cheaper and I prefer having an LCD screen to see internal tems and fan speeds. Eyeballing is great, but PWM outputs on a slick looking LCD is even better =P


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13902091*
> I agree in case labs being BIG. At this point it's what I really want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love the 800D also, and it was my dream case for quite some time.
> 
> 4.5Ghz is great, not to mention the volts you have it at.
> 
> My idle temps are usually 10C above ambient. In the coming months I will be working on bringing that down some with better fans (GT-2150) in push/pull and possibly adding more RADs. I will probably also upgrade my GPUs to either GTX 580 sli, or GTX 590 quad sli for Xmas (depending on what Kepler brings to the table). Right now those upgrades ate just dreams, but maybe . . .


My idle temps have been around 10C over ambient as well, hopefully when I reapply my new MX-4 TIM over the XSPC crap today ill see that drop a little bit. My temps at 4.5 are a little more depressing now that I've had to raise the Vcore to 1.3V to get it stable, granted, .02V shouldnt make that much of a difference, but I'm getting load tems of 68-70C right now at 4.5Ghz, which isnt where i want it. Also, spreading the TIM around is bad, right? just an X and a + and press the heatsink down?


----------



## jamborhgini313

the pump in this kit is a POS. It's louder than my GTX 580 in metro...


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13905809*
> Actually, I took a look at the sunbeam rheosmart and ended up opting for the Scythe Kaze Master Pro. It was about 10 bucks cheaper and I prefer having an LCD screen to see internal tems and fan speeds. Eyeballing is great, but PWM outputs on a slick looking LCD is even better =P


I really like the look of that one actually. I have too many fans, is there a way to daisy chain them all so i can run them all from 1 controller?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;13906381*
> the pump in this kit is a POS. It's louder than my GTX 580 in metro...


You probably have a bad pump. Take a video, contact XSPC and they'll replace it for you. Mine is damn near silent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13906403*
> I really like the look of that one actually. I have too many fans, is there a way to daisy chain them all so i can run them all from 1 controller?


You can use a fan splitter to connect multiple fans to a single header, but you need to be careful of how much you connect per channel. From this scythe-usa page it appears that you can only put 12W per channel, which isn't much to be honest. What fans do you have?
The AP-15s require 4.32w on start-up, so you could only connect two to a single header.


----------



## ezveedub

With the Sunbeam Rheosmart, you can daisy-chain a few fans per fan connector, since it handles 30watts per channel.


----------



## Boyboyd

I think i'd only need 2 on a single header. I have 10 on the radiators. and the case fans are connected to the motherboard.

Yeah i have the 1850s.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13905809*
> Actually, I took a look at the sunbeam rheosmart and ended up opting for the Scythe Kaze Master Pro. It was about 10 bucks cheaper and I prefer having an LCD screen to see internal tems and fan speeds. Eyeballing is great, but PWM outputs on a slick looking LCD is even better =P


Yeah... and I have to agree with you. I ws actually thinking about my case and all the grill mesh it has. The Rheosmart in my case blends in better. The ONLY advantages the Rheosmart has is the PWM compatibility and the 30 watts per channel.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13906403*
> I really like the look of that one actually. I have too many fans, is there a way to daisy chain them all so i can run them all from 1 controller?


It's all a matter of wattage. how much wattage can each header hold on the controller.

Just an idea. On my mobo each header is rated up to 24 watts a header. I have 3 Yate Loons HS rated at 3.6 watts each at max. I can easily place 3 fans (as I have) on one mobo fan header (3.6 w x 3 = 10.8 watts. 10.8 watts < 24 watts max rating) with a fan cable splitter.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13905960*
> My idle temps have been around 10C over ambient as well, hopefully when I reapply my new MX-4 TIM over the XSPC crap today ill see that drop a little bit. My temps at 4.5 are a little more depressing now that I've had to raise the Vcore to 1.3V to get it stable, granted, .02V shouldnt make that much of a difference, but I'm getting load tems of 68-70C right now at 4.5Ghz, which isnt where i want it. Also, spreading the TIM around is bad, right? just an X and a + and press the heatsink down?


Hmmm . . . What is load for you? That seems a bit high, but what is your ambient? If my ambient is 20C, then my idle temp is 30C and during gameplay it's 38C (approximate on all numbers).

As far as TIM goes there are so many opinions. If I remember correctly I did the star method on my GPU, and the pea method on my CPU. If you can try different methods until you get it right and what you want. Try different TIM too, if feasible.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;13906381*
> the pump in this kit is a POS. It's louder than my GTX 580 in metro...


Your pump maybe. They are great with Customer service and they will replace it for you. Fast shipping too.

My pump is so silent that I wish it would make a little noise. But it works great.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13904598*
> Two words... Sunbeam Rheosmart.


That is the one I want to get.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13906647*
> I think i'd only need 2 on a single header. I have 10 on the radiators. and the case fans are connected to the motherboard.
> 
> Yeah i have the 1850s.


I can't wait for my 2150s to get here.


----------



## Annex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;13906381*
> the pump in this kit is a POS. It's louder than my GTX 580 in metro...


Get it replaced for sure.

I just got my entire case on an NZXT sentry 2 fan controller, and it keeps everything whisper quiet.. The sound of the pump is barely audible, and doesn't sound unpleasant at all. The only thing I really need to do next is get the bottom 140mm fan on some rubber mounts and get around to installing blocks on my GPU's when my copper ram sinks arrive.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13906740*
> It's all a matter of wattage. how much wattage can each header hold on the controller.
> 
> Just an idea. On my mobo each header is rated up to 24 watts a header. I have 3 Yate Loons HS rated at 3.6 watts each at max. I can easily place 3 fans (as I have) on one mobo fan header (3.6 w x 3 = 10.8 watts. 10.8 watts < 24 watts max rating) with a fan cable splitter.


Be wary of the 3.6w rating; the start-up wattage is more important in that sense. If 3.6w is the start up, then that's fine. But if 3.6w is the normal, the start-up will be significantly higher.


----------



## Greenback

lo all just a quick question what are the best fans for the rs360? I know they need to be faster then the RX360, also they will be going in the top of case think there is some that don't do well being horizontal.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


My pump is so silent that I wish it would make a little noise. But it works great.


When I first got my kit I was surprised on how silent the pump was. I even had to double check to see if it was actually working. If I upgrade I will definitely stick with bay pump/res combos. This pump is more silent than a Gentle Typhoon AP-13, and those fans are farking silent.


----------



## wetfit9

Anyone using a shroud on their rad and if so, are the temps better for it


----------



## bennieboi6969

i have a shroud off sorts and my temps are great lol heres a link to pics of it
http://www.overclock.net/12306498-post3770.html


----------



## Khalam

guys what tubing+compression fittings would you recommend for a FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250mm - Amber res to pump to rx360 to cpu to res loop?

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Fr...ber_20635.html


----------



## Vodkacooling

So what is the cheapest place to get this system? lol. I want it, but because I bought a H50 I dont want to spend more money








.

Is 130 the cheapest an RS240 can be found?


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling;13913281*
> So what is the cheapest place to get this system? lol. I want it, but because I bought a H50 I dont want to spend more money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Is 130 the cheapest an RS240 can be found?


We don't even know what country you live in


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone;13913742*
> We don't even know what country you live in


his profile says U.S.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling;13913281*
> Is 130 the cheapest an RS240 can be found?


pretty much


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13907952*
> Hmmm . . . What is load for you? That seems a bit high, but what is your ambient? If my ambient is 20C, then my idle temp is 30C and during gameplay it's 38C (approximate on all numbers).
> 
> As far as TIM goes there are so many opinions. If I remember correctly I did the star method on my GPU, and the pea method on my CPU. If you can try different methods until you get it right and what you want. Try different TIM too, if feasible.


Well, I think that I've finally *crosses fingers, knocks on wood, prays to god* gotten my 2600k stable at 4.5Ghz. Turns out I had to jack up my QPI/VTT pretty substantially to 1.15V and my Vcore is sitting at 1.32V though i think that I can knock that down .005V to 1.315V and be fine, as cpu-z hasnt reported a Vcore above 1.312V in the last 7 hours of the prime95 stress test. My VID is being reported as 1.3761V on RealTemp though.

As far as TIM goes, I got a tube of MX-5 for like 8 bucks from newegg, so I plan on reseating my heatsink tonight or tomorrow. My ambient temps are trash right now at like 27C and my processor temps have ranged from 36C to 74C at the ends of the spectrum for the 4 cores. Hopefully the new TIM will help bring that down some, and I probably should flush out the radiator tonight or tomorrow, as I never did it when I first installed it. Gotta find me some vinegar, lol.


----------



## Khalam

lads does any one have any experience with these?:

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-Nano-2G-12-PWM-Silent-1500rpm-Red-LED-Double-Blade--120x120x25mm-_20616.html

how would they compare to ap 15?


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Websites to buy in US are in the front of this thread.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;13914153*
> his profile says U.S.
> 
> pretty much


There's a profile on OCN? Like.. facebook n stuff?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;13906740*
> It's all a matter of wattage. how much wattage can each header hold on the controller.
> 
> Just an idea. On my mobo each header is rated up to 24 watts a header. I have 3 Yate Loons HS rated at 3.6 watts each at max. I can easily place 3 fans (as I have) on one mobo fan header (3.6 w x 3 = 10.8 watts. 10.8 watts < 24 watts max rating) with a fan cable splitter.


I mean how would I physically connect them all together? Speed reporting isn't important to me.


----------



## Blindsay

Got the RS360 kit up and running on a friends machine. Pretty damn inclusive kit for the money, i was pretty impressed with the kit overall:thumb:


----------



## eurosport360

Can one of you experts help me out in my new thread?

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1045204-xspc-rasa-750-xspc-razor-460-a.html


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13914177*
> Well, I think that I've finally *crosses fingers, knocks on wood, prays to god* gotten my 2600k stable at 4.5Ghz. Turns out I had to jack up my QPI/VTT pretty substantially to 1.15V and my Vcore is sitting at 1.32V though i think that I can knock that down .005V to 1.315V and be fine, as cpu-z hasnt reported a Vcore above 1.312V in the last 7 hours of the prime95 stress test. My VID is being reported as 1.3761V on RealTemp though.
> 
> As far as TIM goes, I got a tube of MX-5 for like 8 bucks from newegg, so I plan on reseating my heatsink tonight or tomorrow. My ambient temps are trash right now at like 27C and my processor temps have ranged from 36C to 74C at the ends of the spectrum for the 4 cores. Hopefully the new TIM will help bring that down some, and I probably should flush out the radiator tonight or tomorrow, as I never did it when I first installed it. Gotta find me some vinegar, lol.


That's the same TIM I am using. I hope it does the trick.

I got lucky in that my computer room is the coolest room in the house. It can be 15-20 degrees cooler than the hottest room.









How far apart is your coolest core from your hottest core? I easily see a 10C+ difference. I need to check how flat or concave my processor and heat sink are.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eurosport360;13918062*
> Can one of you experts help me out in my new thread?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1045204-xspc-rasa-750-xspc-razor-460-a.html


Well, since you called me an expert.







.

I've already made a few posts on your thread.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;13915548*
> lads does any one have any experience with these?:
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Phobya-Nano-2G-12-PWM-Silent-1500rpm-Red-LED-Double-Blade--120x120x25mm-_20616.html
> 
> how would they compare to ap 15?


No experience with them, but I can tell they are a bit slower. And I would guess they are not as quiet, but not 100% sure on that. They are most likely less expensive.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;13917765*
> Got the RS360 kit up and running on a friends machine. Pretty damn inclusive kit for the money, i was pretty impressed with the kit overall:thumb:


I think they are great! The one thing I would do though is get better tubing.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13916166*
> I mean how would I physically connect them all together? Speed reporting isn't important to me.


You can get adapters where on one end you connect to the controller/power source and the other end splits up to plug in two or more fans.

That what you were asking?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13918386*
> You can get adapters where on one end you connect to the controller/power source and the other end splits up to plug in two or more fans.
> 
> That what you were asking?


That's not what i was asking, it's better. I thought I was going to have to re-wire the fans but that would work. Now i just need to find some.


----------



## Randomocity

Sigh. My temperatures got worse with MX-4. Tried the pea application, no dice. Gonna try a full spread application and hope for the best.

EDIT: Oh and I bought a tube of IC7D. 6 bucks? I'll take it.


----------



## Boyboyd

The full spread application usually just induces bubbles. I found that a diagonal line worked best for me.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling;13913281*
> So what is the cheapest place to get this system? lol. I want it, but because I bought a H50 I dont want to spend more money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Is 130 the cheapest an RS240 can be found?


The first post in this thread has links to vendors.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13918411*
> Sigh. My temperatures got worse with MX-4. Tried the pea application, no dice. Gonna try a full spread application and hope for the best.
> 
> EDIT: Oh and I bought a tube of IC7D. 6 bucks? I'll take it.


Have you done the razor test? Checking to see how flat or concave your CPU and Waterblock are?


----------



## Randomocity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13918471*
> Have you done the razor test? Checking to see how flat or concave your CPU and Waterblock are?


I was really hoping i wouldnt have to do that, but it's looking more an more essential as the day goes on. My block has to be warped in one direction as cores 1&4 stay about 5-10C cooler than 2&3. Anyone know the die layout for the 2600k?


----------



## Jobotoo

Just in-case this helps out with TIM:

http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1026231-tim-consultants-appreciation-thread.html

I might try some of that Quantum and see for myself if it really is that much better.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13918608*
> I was really hoping i wouldnt have to do that, but it's looking more an more essential as the day goes on. My block has to be warped in one direction as cores 1&4 stay about 5-10C cooler than 2&3. Anyone know the die layout for the 2600k?


My cores seems to be further apart in temps, so you might be fine?

EDIT: I was completely WRONG, oops! My cores are about 2C apart, idle.


----------



## SLam001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13916166*
> I mean how would I physically connect them all together? Speed reporting isn't important to me.


you can try using something like this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12648/ele-785/3-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_4xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-4WAY.html?id=piToXxZh&mv_pc=145


----------



## Randomocity

Unbelievable what a difference a good application makes. Huge shoutout to BoyBoyd for the advice to try the diagonal line. I'm down 10C from the pea application, and my cpu hasn't broken 63C @ load with Prime95and hasn't broken 70C in IBT, down from 73C in Prime and 78C in IBT.

My Idle temps still suck though, I'm still 12C over ambient right now.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13918608*
> I was really hoping i wouldnt have to do that, but it's looking more an more essential as the day goes on. My block has to be warped in one direction as cores 1&4 stay about 5-10C cooler than 2&3. Anyone know the die layout for the 2600k?


I have the exact problem, but its a little worse off than yours. My first core is always 10-15c cooler than the rest of the cores, and it was dead even with my previous Corsair H50 cooler, so I have deduced that my block needs a good lapping. I have reseated it several times with no luck as well. Here is the die layout

I am going to lap my CPU next week or so. I hate lapping, it takes so long









I was also thinking of just purchasing a new EK block as they are lapped and polished to +/- 0.0007 mm flatness.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Randomocity;13919017*
> Unbelievable what a difference a good application makes. Huge shoutout to BoyBoyd for the advice to try the diagonal line. I'm down 10C from the pea application, and my cpu hasn't broken 63C @ load with Prime95and hasn't broken 70C in IBT, down from 73C in Prime and 78C in IBT.
> 
> My Idle temps still suck though, I'm still 12C over ambient right now.


I don't think 12 over ambient is that bad. I am usually 10 or so over.


----------



## fazio93

i believe i read that water cooling becomes more effective under load temps. They won't really improve idle temps. I know my idle temps have always sucked with this chip, even with air. Once I went under water, load was drastically better, but idle didn't improve much. i started using PhenomMsrTweaker a couple months ago. At idle I'm at ~32C b/c it downclocks to 800mhz @ ~1v.


----------



## Jobotoo

What are the MAX blocks/RADs the Rasa 750 pump will safely have enough power to push through?

For a future build:
If I were going with 4x480 RADs, one CPU block, and two GPU blocks would I want to upgrade the pump? If so, which pump would you suggest.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13920316*
> What are the MAX blocks/RADs the Rasa 750 pump will safely have enough power to push through?
> 
> For a future build:
> If I were going with 4x480 RADs, one CPU block, and two GPU blocks would I want to upgrade the pump? If so, which pump would you suggest.


With that many high end rads, it would be crazy not to upgrade to a high-end pump. 2 is more than enough, why 4?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;13920500*
> With that many high end rads, it would be crazy not to upgrade to a high-end pump. 2 is more than enough, why 4?


That's what I thought. Any particular pump suggestion?

I may only go with 2 RADs. I was contemplating 4 because I could put two on top and two on bottom of case internally. But it might not give the benefits I think it would. I was thinking of running one loop with two RADs before CPU then to the other two RADs before two GTX 590s.

That much RAD too much?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


That's what I thought. Any particular pump suggestion?

I may only go with 2 RADs. I was contemplating 4 because I could put two on top and two on bottom of case internally. But it might not give the benefits I think it would. I was thinking of running one loop with two RADs before CPU then to the other two RADs before two GTX 590s.

That much RAD too much?


Use a DDC or D5 pump. I use a 10watt DDC-1T with my current loop with two RX360 rads.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13921192*
> Use a DDC or D5 pump. I use a 10watt DDC-1T with my current loop with two RX360 rads.


Rgr that, thanks!

I'm months away from putting it all together, but trying to piece it all together in my head and on paper in order to do it right.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


Rgr that, thanks!

I'm months away from putting it all together, but trying to piece it all together in my head and on paper in order to do it right.










I use the BMaverick DDC pump. They're $35 shipped here on OCN


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I use the BMaverick DDC pump. They're $35 shipped here on OCN


I'll check them out. Thanks again!


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Use a DDC or D5 pump. I use a 10watt DDC-1T with my current loop with two RX360 rads.


This is what I plan on running let me know your thoughts. 
XSPC dual res with 2 ddc 3.1 pumps

*res/pump1 to RX360 to CPU to res/pump2 to RX360 to GPU (580's sli)
*
Second choice
res/pump1 to RX360 to RX120 to CPU to RX360 to res/pump2 to rs360 back to res/pump1

My thoughts are to keep it simple, the bold suggestion is my first choice. Then I would just sell off my rs360 and rx120 and make a little cash off the spare parts.


----------



## Khalam

I dont mind paying more for the fans, its just I really want red led fans







anything you guys can recommend that would be as good or better then gentle typhoons ap 15?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


I dont mind paying more for the fans, its just I really want red led fans







anything you guys can recommend that would be as good or better then gentle typhoons ap 15?


Better? Gonna be tough if you like quiet. You can always go with AP-31s.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


This is what I plan on running let me know your thoughts. 
XSPC dual res with 2 ddc 3.1 pumps

*res/pump1 to RX360 to CPU to res/pump2 to RX360 to GPU (580's sli)
*
Second choice
res/pump1 to RX360 to RX120 to CPU to RX360 to res/pump2 to rs360 back to res/pump1

My thoughts are to keep it simple, the bold suggestion is my first choice. Then I would just sell off my rs360 and rx120 and make a little cash off the spare parts.


Hmmm . . . You are giving me ideas.

I would think either choice would work well, so go with what you prefer.

I like going with one loop personally, but contemplating two.


----------



## Khalam

tbh if I have the option to have them run silent for every day use then I dont mind them being like a hoover when benching







but have to have red leds


----------



## wetfit9

Well it would only be one loop but with a pump in front and the middle.

That way only one drain plug.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalam;13921653*
> I dont mind paying more for the fans, its just I really want red led fans anything you guys can recommend that would be as good or better then gentle typhoons ap 15?


An LED fan to beat the GT AP15? That'll be tough. Someone posted a link to some Phobya fans a few pages back which have red and black fan blades, along with the question of how well do they compare to the AP15s.

Personally, I use the Coolermaster R4's with the red LEDs and a single AP30.
You might find it easier to use GT AP15s and get a couple of CCFLs


----------



## youra6

Just to let you know, after owning the kit for 6+ months, I finally got it up and running.







Now I'm letting it run for a couple of hours and I'll post up pictures later.


----------



## RYu311

sooo... after 2+ months of lurking, i've finished reading all 815 pages of this thread







and am more than ready to buy a rasa kit for a future build.

the problem i have is i don't know which one is better: the RX240 or RS360.

i know the RX is thicker and cools better than an RS of the same size, but i haven't seen any data comparing a thick 240 rad vs a thin 360 rad.

i would like to assume the RX240 outperforms the RS360 since it costs $20 more, but you know what they say about assuming









so i was wondering if any of you guys know the answer or have had any personal experiences comparing the RX240 vs the RS360.


----------



## Elmateo487

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RYu311;13924914*
> sooo... after 2+ months of lurking, i've finished reading all 815 pages of this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and am more than ready to buy a rasa kit for a future build.
> 
> the problem i have is i don't know which one is better: the RX240 or RS360.
> 
> i know the RX is thicker and cools better than an RS of the same size, but i haven't seen any data comparing a thick 240 rad vs a thin 360 rad.
> 
> i would like to assume the RX240 outperforms the RS360 since it costs $20 more, but you know what they say about assuming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i was wondering if any of you guys know the answer or have had any personal experiences comparing the RX240 vs the RS360.


Dunno is this is useful, but by word of mouth I have heard people speculate that they perform about the same.

If you do some basic math and multiply all of the dimensions... You get..

1,587,603 for the RS360
2,187.360 for the RX240

Then take into account of the higher fin density of the RS, you probably have close to the same fin area for heat dissipation. There may be quite a few other factors I am missing out on though


----------



## Khalam

hehe it was me asking about those phobyas hmmm ccfl?


----------



## kiwiasian

Does anyone have the RX360 kit, a HAF X, and a Gigabyte X58 motherboard


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youra6;13924598*
> Just to let you know, after owning the kit for 6+ months, I finally got it up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm letting it run for a couple of hours and I'll post up pictures later.


Congrats! Can't wait to see pics!

Why did it take you so long?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RYu311;13924914*
> sooo... after 2+ months of lurking, i've finished reading all 815 pages of this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and am more than ready to buy a rasa kit for a future build.
> 
> the problem i have is i don't know which one is better: the RX240 or RS360.
> 
> i know the RX is thicker and cools better than an RS of the same size, but i haven't seen any data comparing a thick 240 rad vs a thin 360 rad.
> 
> i would like to assume the RX240 outperforms the RS360 since it costs $20 more, but you know what they say about assuming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i was wondering if any of you guys know the answer or have had any personal experiences comparing the RX240 vs the RS360.


Just curious: why not go with the RX360?


----------



## RYu311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmateo487;13925239*
> Dunno is this is useful, but by word of mouth I have heard people speculate that they perform about the same.
> 
> If you do some basic math and multiply all of the dimensions... You get..
> 
> 1,587,603 for the RS360
> 2,187.360 for the RX240
> 
> Then take into account of the higher fin density of the RS, you probably have close to the same fin area for heat dissipation. There may be quite a few other factors I am missing out on though


thanks for the insight. if they are around the same performance i might go and save myself the $20 and hack up my case to make the RS360 fit lol.


----------



## RYu311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13927737*
> Just curious: why not go with the RX360?


in my case (har har pun intended), the RX240 would fit internally with little modification and the RS360 i would have to do quite a bit more dremel work.

with a RX360, i guess i could make it fit, but about a third of it would have airflow blocked off completely.


----------



## Siamak8286

Hi guys, im pretty new to this forums and i had a question regarding RASA RS240, i have an i7 2600K with corsair H60 atm, my room temperature is 24-25c and my cpu at stock 3.4ghz is in following temps
Idle:
31 31 29 30

Load:

55 60 58 57

Now how much difference does it make if i switch from Corsair H60 to RS240 in both Idle and Load temps???

How much louder is RS240 Pump compare to H60 since im very very sensitive to noise and live in a very quite house so i had to make all kinds of mods to keep my unit as silent as possible.


----------



## Jobotoo

Those idle temps are nice. I would imagine you'd get better load temps, but do not have practical knowledge of the RS Rads. I use an RX360 RAD with my 2600K @ 4.6, and my GPU. My ambient at 24C will give me 33C idle and 38-40C during games.

My pump is dead silent. I can't hear it no matter how hard I try. Others have had loud pumps, but XSPC has sent them new silent ones right away.


----------



## Greenback

does the RX360 need to be secured on to the case, or could a fan support the wieght?
The reason I ask is my phantom has 2X200mm fan holes up top with a metal piece in between, and if my thinking is right if I remove the back fan and move the rad towards the back the centre fan screw holes would go either side of the metal.


----------



## Siamak8286

If i do go with RS240, how often does it need maintenance? how often do i need to replace the coolant or do i just refill it? and is RS240 enough to cool my CPU and a single GTX 580 if in the future i wanna add water block for my GPU as well?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286;13930811*
> If i do go with RS240, how often does it need maintenance? how often do i need to replace the coolant or do i just refill it? and is RS240 enough to cool my CPU and a single GTX 580 if in the future i wanna add water block for my GPU as well?


If your looking to add a GPU get a RX240 at the very least. You should go fill out your system in the User Control Panel. It will help out in the long run


----------



## Siamak8286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13930903*
> If your looking to add a GPU get a RX240 at the very least. You should go fill out your system in the User Control Panel. It will help out in the long run


I have Corsair 600T so i believe RX240 will not fit on top of my case like the RS240 can.


----------



## mrinnocent

Here's mine, yeah I know.....cable management could be better








But it sure does work good! cpu maxes out at 47c and gpu's at 42c








Its a RS360 kit running cpu and 2 gpu's. Stock pump, just added extra fans.
23c ambients


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Khalam*


hehe it was me asking about those phobyas







hmmm ccfl?


Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp


----------



## crea

Hello everyone.
I'm new here and have just recently bought a rs360 kit from frozencpu...

While unboxing and assembling the kit,
I found that a barb is missing the black plastic thingy as shown in the picture above(the barb on the left).
I wonder if there will be any side effects if I just let it be,
or can I just get the black thingy instead of having to replace the whole thing?

I am completely new to watercooling. Please forgive me if I may sound like a noob









Thanks in advance!


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crea;13935429*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello everyone.
> I'm new here and have just recently bought a rs360 kit from frozencpu...
> 
> While unboxing and assembling the kit,
> I found that a barb is missing the black plastic thingy as shown in the picture above(the barb on the left).
> I wonder if there will be any side effects if I just let it be,
> or can I just get the black thingy instead of having to replace the whole thing?
> 
> I am completely new to watercooling. Please forgive me if I may sound like a noob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


You absolutely need to have something to seal thread, either that missing O-ring or thread seal tape. Without O-ring that barb is going to leak.


----------



## crea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;13935466*
> You absolutely need to have something to seal thread, either that missing O-ring or thread seal tape. Without O-ring that barb is going to leak.


Thanks for your advice.
I eventually brought the two barbs to a grocery store nearby, and after some mix and match, I got the o-ring for $0.2.
The replacement is an exact fit to the barb, hope it works ^^


----------



## Nyt Ryda

I installed my loop and never saw the black o-rings , did they come in a seperate packet or are they pre-fit on the barb ?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crea;13935429*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello everyone.
> I'm new here and have just recently bought a rs360 kit from frozencpu...
> 
> While unboxing and assembling the kit,
> I found that a barb is missing the black plastic thingy as shown in the picture above(the barb on the left).
> I wonder if there will be any side effects if I just let it be,
> or can I just get the black thingy instead of having to replace the whole thing?
> 
> I am completely new to watercooling. Please forgive me if I may sound like a noob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


It might have just fallen off. You checked the packaging it was in?


----------



## crea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13936032*
> It might have just fallen off. You checked the packaging it was in?


Yep, I checked everything.
I am pretty sure it's paper wrapped without the o-ring.


----------



## Boyboyd

You did the right thing not installing it anyway.


----------



## Khalam

Ehh Im having a bit of a financial hiccup atm Oskar decided its a good idea to throw his locomotive in the middle of the 3d Screen;( in this situation im gone have to go with the cpu block, res, pump, rad and bits atm and when I get back on my feet ill get the second pump, rad, gpu blocks this is what ive decided to go with atm, please have a look and tell me what you think

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Ko...AM3_20190.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/XS...Black_122.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/La...-XSPC_841.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/12...MCP355_91.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Ph...ack_20913.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Th...-Red_1387.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Pr...-1m_18419.html


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Does the Rasa kit evn come with o-rings ? I never saw any


----------



## widezu69

Hello noob here so sorry in advance. Do any of you have experience powering the fans in the RX240 @5v as opposed to 12. How much different did it make?


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Oh and another question , they say the hose clamps are reusable , how do you reuse them and get them off ?


----------



## Dado

The 360 in my open case setup.

Link to the build.
http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1038519-project-log-water-cooled-banchetto-z68x.html


----------



## Boyboyd

Very neat.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dado;13936735*
> The 360 in my open case setup.
> 
> Link to the build.
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1038519-project-log-water-cooled-banchetto-z68x.html


I like it! So neat and so good!


----------



## ali7up

I'm running a XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 with my i7-970. Can i run 4 GTX 460s in the same loop with the XSPC Razor 460 WB?


----------



## Boyboyd

I don't think so. Not with 4 fermis.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13936332*
> Does the Rasa kit evn come with o-rings ? I never saw any


Yes.







. In general fittings come
with O-Rings, thank goodness.


----------



## ali7up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13937877*
> I don't think so. Not with 4 fermis.


Can i use another 360 rad after the cpu and then into the gtxs or should i just get a separate kit for the gtxs?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13936698*
> Oh and another question , they say the hose clamps are reusable , how do you reuse them and get them off ?


If you are talking about the black plastic ones that come with the kit, just push the ends to the opposite side and they come right off. Then just re-tighten or re-use.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali7up;13937862*
> I'm running a XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 with my i7-970. Can i run 4 GTX 460s in the same loop with the XSPC Razor 460 WB?


If you are asking if the pump will handle it, it's kinda pushing it. It might, but not 100% sure on that.

If you are asking if those water-blocks will fit on those cards I am not sure.


----------



## ali7up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13938017*
> If you are asking if the pump will handle it, it's kinda pushing it. It might, but not 100% sure on that.
> 
> If you are asking if those water-blocks will fit on those cards I am not sure.


I'm guessing im going to have to get another kit just for the cards.

The cards are:

2 x EVGA 768-P3-1362-AR
2 x Galaxy 60XMH6HS3HMW GeForce GTX 460


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali7up;13937909*
> Can i use another 360 rad after the cpu and then into the gtxs or should i just get a separate kit for the gtxs?


Ok, so you are asking more with regard to heat.

You could either go with another kit and have two loops, although I'd probably do CPU and one or two GPU(s) on one loop ant the other GPUs on the second loop. Or CPU on one loop with maybe an RX240 and the four GPU's on another loop with at least one RX360, but I think two would be better.

Or get a better pump and another RX360 (or two) and run everything on one loop.

If feasible go push/pull with decent fans on the RADs.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali7up;13937909*
> Can i use another 360 rad after the cpu and then into the gtxs or should i just get a separate kit for the gtxs?


How does your loop go atm? You could add one between the CPU and GPUs and one after so:

Res --> CPU --> 360 --> GPUs --> 360 --> Res

or

Res --> 360 --> CPU --> 360 --> GPUs --> Res

You could also just create a separate loop. I'm not sure how much heat 4 460s would dump into the water, but let's face it. With the RASA kit it's not difficult to add another loop.


----------



## ammarmalik

hi can someone please confirm if the RX360 rad will fit inside a HAF932 on top


----------



## ali7up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;13938214*
> How does your loop go atm? You could add one between the CPU and GPUs and one after so:
> 
> Res --> CPU --> 360 --> GPUs --> 360 --> Res
> 
> or
> 
> Res --> 360 --> CPU --> 360 --> GPUs --> Res
> 
> You could also just create a separate loop. I'm not sure how much heat 4 460s would dump into the water, but let's face it. With the RASA kit it's not difficult to add another loop.


Right now i have:

res>>360>>cpu>>res

The cards are currently running 52-63C with 100% fan. I'm leaking more towards just getting a separate loop for the cards.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammarmalik;13938305*
> hi can someone please confirm if the RX360 rad will fit inside a HAF932 on top


You obviously did not go through the thread.







Yes, it will fit. I have that in my HAF932.


----------



## ali7up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammarmalik;13938305*
> hi can someone please confirm if the RX360 rad will fit inside a HAF932 on top


Here is a pic of another member's 932.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali7up;13938373*
> The cards are currently running 52-63C with 100% fan. I'm leaking more towards just getting a separate loop for the cards.


That should work. The biggest thing you will notice is the silence.


----------



## ali7up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13938414*
> That should work. The biggest thing you will notice is the silence.


Yea the noise is becoming unbearable. I can use 2 xspc 240 rads can run it:

res>>240 rad<<gtx>>gtx>>240 rad>>gtx>>gtx>>res

Just have to find WBs that fit the non-reference gtx.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali7up;13938580*
> Yea the noise is becoming unbearable. I can use 2 xspc 240 rads can run it:
> 
> res>>240 rad<<gtx>>gtx>>240 rad>>gtx>>gtx>>res
> 
> Just have to find WBs that fit the non-reference gtx.


That sounds like a good loop order.

Look at Koolance, XSPC, EK (non nickel), and others to see if there is a waterblock for those.


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Does anyone know what the Rasa kit's o-rings look like ? In which packet do they come and where do you use them ? How many are there ? Is is ok to run without them if I super-tightened the barbs as far as they will go with a torgue-spanner ? Please help


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;13939228*
> Does anyone know what the Rasa kit's o-rings look like ? In which packet do they come and where do you use them ? How many are there ? Is is ok to run without them if I super-tightened the barbs as far as they will go with a torgue-spanner ? Please help


The o-rings come on the barbs. NO you should not use the fittings without o-rings.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammarmalik;13938305*
> hi can someone please confirm if the RX360 rad will fit inside a HAF932 on top


You can do RX360 with push/pull fans, Or a RX360 with push fans and a RX120 with push fan like me


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13939398*
> You can do RX360 with push/pull fans, Or a RX360 with push fans and a RX120 with push fan like me


What kind of temps do you get with your cpu on IBT? + ambient


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;13940088*
> What kind of temps do you get with your cpu on IBT? + ambient


With my i7 875K at 4.329GHz @1.36v full load with a 22c room temp, My max temps are 65, 61, 60, 60. My chip seems to have a hot core, But that is with a 6990 in the loop


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13940379*
> With my i7 875K at 4.329GHz @1.36v full load with a 22c room temp, My max temps are 65, 61, 60, 60. My chip seems to have a hot core, But that is with a 6990 in the loop


Good, so it's not just me.







Thanks for the reply!


----------



## Siamak8286

I use i7 2600K and don't plan on Overclocking it. i use my computer for Gaming and Entertainment, should i upgrade to RASA RS240 or just keep my Corsair H60 and leave it be? will RS240 reduce the noise in my case? here is the temps im getting on corsair H60 at stock speed:
Idle:
33 33 32 32

Load:

55 58 58 56


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286;13942252*
> I use i7 2600K and don't plan on Overclocking it. i use my computer for Gaming and Entertainment, should i upgrade to RASA RS240 or just keep my Corsair H60 and leave it be? will RS240 reduce the noise in my case? here is the temps im getting on corsair H60 at stock speed:
> Idle:
> 33 33 32 32
> 
> Load:
> 
> 55 58 58 56


Those temps are fine. If you are not going to overclock, there isn't a "need" for more powerful cooling. If the fans on your H60 are making a lot of noise you could get quieter fans.

If you want to overclock and/or add a GPU, then a RASA kit may be a good alternative.

On a side note, overclocking a 2600K is relatively easy.


----------



## Alex132

SB K series is EXTREMELY easy to overclock


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286;13942252*
> I use i7 2600K and don't plan on Overclocking it. i use my computer for Gaming and Entertainment, should i upgrade to RASA RS240 or just keep my Corsair H60 and leave it be? will RS240 reduce the noise in my case? here is the temps im getting on corsair H60 at stock speed:
> Idle:
> 33 33 32 32
> 
> Load:
> 
> 55 58 58 56


Why buy a K CPU if your not going to overclock







From what I have seen overclocking the 2600K takes like 5-10 mins


----------



## Alex132

Its actually kinda boring overclocking Sandy Bridge


----------



## ali7up

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


That sounds like a good loop order.

Look at Koolance, XSPC, EK (non nickel), and others to see if there is a waterblock for those.


whats a good pump to handle all 4 cards and 2 240 rads?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ali7up*


whats a good pump to handle all 4 cards and 2 240 rads?


mpc655


----------



## crea

Thanks everyone for your help~
My compu is up and running now... 
There's been no leak so far as well


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crea;13943664*
> Thanks everyone for your help~
> My compu is up and running now...
> There's been no leak so far as well


So blue O_O, good job!


----------



## Jobotoo

Nice crea!


----------



## RYu311

in case anybody else was wondering the same thing i was (rx240 vs rs360), here's the response i got from [email protected]:
Quote:


> There will be different but not much for a PC. Unless you do care very much about the tiny different.


now should i hack up my case and save $20 with the rs360 or just shell out the extra $20 for the rx240...


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RYu311;13944937*
> in case anybody else was wondering the same thing i was (rx240 vs rs360), here's the response i got from [email protected]:
> 
> now should i hack up my case and save $20 with the rs360 or just shell out the extra $20 for the rx240...


Just go with the RX360.









But if your only choices are the RX240 or RS360, then personally I would go with the RX240.


----------



## RYu311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13945363*
> Just go with the RX360.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if your only choices are the RX240 or RS360, then personally I would go with the RX240.


haha, damn. i went from almost getting a hyper 212+ to almost getting an rx240/rs360. now you have me seriously considering just getting an rx360









from a $30 cooler to a $190 kit. there goes any hope of this being a budget-minded build







lol.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RYu311;13945537*
> haha, damn. i went from almost getting a hyper 212+ to almost getting an rx240/rs360. now you have me seriously considering just getting an rx360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from a $30 cooler to a $190 kit. there goes any hope of this being a budget-minded build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.


Lol!

Don't worry, in a few months you'll be looking at pumps, reses, more RADs, etc.









But seriously: if you are only water-cooling your CPU, the RX240 is great. If you EVER want to add a GPU or two, get the RX360. It is what I have for my CPU and GPU, and I could not be happier.

I am thinking of upgrading my GPU at the end of the year to go sli, so I'm looking at a new case to house a couple 360/480 RADs.


----------



## bmckenna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RYu311;13945537*
> haha, damn. i went from almost getting a hyper 212+ to almost getting an rx240/rs360. now you have me seriously considering just getting an rx360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from a $30 cooler to a $190 kit. there goes any hope of this being a budget-minded build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.


Hah, me too.

I currently have a Hyper 212+. At stock speeds, idle temps were under 30, and load temps for all cores stayed under 50 with GPU and SMP [email protected] cores running, hottest core would hit about 52 running Prime 95. However, overclocked to 4.4 [email protected] (bumped down one multiplier from my initial goal of 4.5 ghz for the time being...running stability testing and 12 hours through a Prime 95 blend test thanks to a small vccio raise...before I was hitting 3-5 hours before a BSOD...but I digress) I'm at this moment hitting 50 on my coolest core, 57 on my hottest...with a 4 degree C ambient temperature reduction now that my air conditioning is once again working. When the AC was out, I was over 60 deg C on my hottest core. That much heat just makes me uncomfortable (physically and mentally), so I'm also planning on making my relatively budget build a little more luxurious and springing for an RS240 kit in a week or two to hopefully expand on at some point in the future with a GPU block and additional 120mm/200mm radiator. The only reason I'm not considering an RX240/any of the 360's is that I can't get it in my case, and want to keep everything internal...


----------



## RYu311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13945604*
> Lol!
> 
> Don't worry, in a few months you'll be looking at pumps, reses, more RADs, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously: if you are only water-cooling your CPU, the RX240 is great. If you EVER want to add a GPU or two, get the RX360. It is what I have for my CPU and GPU, and I could not be happier.
> 
> I am thinking of upgrading my GPU at the end of the year to go sli, so I'm looking at a new case to house a couple 360/480 RADs.


after some more measuring, i think i can fit an rx360 internally with some creative dremel work... yup. im pretty thoroughly convinced i need an rx360 now








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmckenna;13945769*
> The only reason I'm not considering an RX240/any of the 360's is that I can't get it in my case, and want to keep everything internal...


haha i too, have the urge to keep everything internal. maybe you could fit an rx or 360 with some case mods? or you can be like jobotoo and get a new case


----------



## bmckenna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RYu311;13946230*
> haha i too, have the urge to keep everything internal. maybe you could fit an rx or 360 with some case mods? or you can be like jobotoo and get a new case


I love my case. It's a Corsair, so all the loveliness that comes along with that (cable management, yum) but it didn't cost me $250 like an 800D would. Plus I'm thinking that an RS240 and the Phobya 200mm radiator (mounted up front) would probably be sufficient for a CPU+GPU loop, and if not, I could always mount an additional 120mm rad on the back and still have 4 side panel fans if need be.


----------



## Boyboyd

I love my 700D. I saved £80 by not having a window or hot swap bays. Still need to figure out a way to mount both rads internally though.


----------



## Greenback

As most ppl change the tubing and fans from these kits I did a little test to see how much you save if you bought seperately so

XSPC Rasa CPU Waterblock Intel Â£44.99
1/4" High Flow Barb Fitting for 1/2 Â£9.30 
XSPC X2O 750 L/ph 12V Pump Rev2 X6 Â£59.85
Nylon Hose Clamp x6 Â£0.49 Total Â£117.11

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Â£129.97 rad only Â£33.95 Â£151.09
XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 Â£171.29 rad only Â£58.99 Â£176.13
XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Â£139.99 rad only Â£43.39 Â£160.53
XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 Â£194.98 rad only Â£72.99 Â£190.13

As you can see the only 1 you would make a saving on is the RX360 kit. As they cann't be makeing a loss on the kits it would imply that the individual prices are inflated by a large margin.


----------



## iDaryl

im planning to buy one of those kits. could you guys do me a favor and confirm if rx480 is compatible with the nzxt phantom chassis?i think i'll be adding another gpu waterblock too...maaaan i wanna see those temps for 2600k on 5ghz...


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iDaryl;13950462*
> im planning to buy one of those kits. could you guys do me a favor and confirm if rx480 is compatible with the nzxt phantom chassis?i think i'll be adding another gpu waterblock too...maaaan i wanna see those temps for 2600k on 5ghz...


no phantom only just about takes the 360


----------



## iDaryl

so i should put the rad externally then?or any good suggestions for getting the 480 internally?

and oh, one question, rx480 cant fit in even without the removable drive bay inside?


----------



## jamborhgini313

i finally contacted xspc about the pump so hopefully i get a reply soon. for those who had faulty pumps, did u have to send in your old pump?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


i finally contacted xspc about the pump so hopefully i get a reply soon. for those who had faulty pumps, did u have to send in your old pump?


Nope.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iDaryl*


so i should put the rad externally then?or any good suggestions for getting the 480 internally?

and oh, one question, rx480 cant fit in even without the removable drive bay inside?


I'm not familiar with that case, but here are a few suggestions;

You could look at the length of the RAD and then get a ruler or tape measure and see if it would fit.

What are you trying to cool? I'm cooling my CPU and GPU with a RX360 and it's great. But I agree that if you can go with the RX480 it will be better.

Would you consider another case? I'm asking because the case I am looking at will fit four RX480 Rads internally.







The case is the TH10 made by Case Labs (they have a forum section here on OCN).


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313*


i finally contacted xspc about the pump so hopefully i get a reply soon. for those who had faulty pumps, did u have to send in your old pump?


Sometimes you do, other times you don't. I didn't have a faulty pump (except it was a little louder than the one I have now) but the reservoir was leaking so I had to send it back. Other people have recorded loud pumps and sent a video to XSPC and they've not had to send it back.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


I'm not familiar with that case, but here are a few suggestions;

You could look at the length of the RAD and then get a ruler or tape measure and see if it would fit.

What are you trying to cool? I'm cooling my CPU and GPU with a RX360 and it's great. But I agree that if you can go with the RX480 it will be better.

Would you consider another case? I'm asking because the case I am looking at will fit four RX480 Rads internally.







The case is the TH10 made by Case Labs (they have a forum section here on OCN).


The cases by case labs I here are great. I get my T10 in today. Moving my system over over the next couple of weeks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


The cases by case labs I here are great. I get my T10 in today. Moving my system over over the next couple of weeks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Congrats!!!!
I'm do jealous! Take lots if pics please!


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


Congrats!!!!
I'm do jealous! Take lots if pics please!


I will. I am going to take it slow.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iDaryl*


so i should put the rad externally then?or any good suggestions for getting the 480 internally?

and oh, one question, rx480 cant fit in even without the removable drive bay inside?


if you remove the 2 hdd bays you can get a 240 in the bottom, you can get an RS360 in the top with a little modding and dependant on motherboard you may be able to get a RX360 but for an RX480 only place is external. If you want a rx480 internal get a xigmatek elysium plenty of rad space


----------



## Pandaga

I need some suggestion, I've looked into the XSPC for a bit and I plan to buy a XSPC kit. However I don't know which one to get, I'll most likely be cooling my CPU and MOST likely 1 GPU. Would the RS360 kit be enough?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


The cases by case labs I here are great. I get my T10 in today. Moving my system over over the next couple of weeks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a HAF 922 with an externally mounted RX360. I was thinking of upgrading to the HAF X and trying to mount the rad internally. Do you think I shouldn't bother and go straight to a Case Labs instead? The HAF X has been my dream case for a while.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;13953653*
> I have a HAF 922 with an externally mounted RX360. I was thinking of upgrading to the HAF X and trying to mount the rad internally. Do you think I shouldn't bother and go straight to a Case Labs instead? The HAF X has been my dream case for a while.


Isn't the 932 easier to mount a 360 in then the HAF-x


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13953724*
> Isn't the 932 easier to mount a 360 in then the HAF-x


Yes but not nearly as nice as the HAF X.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;13953653*
> I have a HAF 922 with an externally mounted RX360. I was thinking of upgrading to the HAF X and trying to mount the rad internally. Do you think I shouldn't bother and go straight to a Case Labs instead? The HAF X has been my dream case for a while.


You want a 932 if you want to have a RX360 internally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13953724*
> Isn't the 932 easier to mount a 360 in then the HAF-x


Your right


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;13953653*
> I have a HAF 922 with an externally mounted RX360. I was thinking of upgrading to the HAF X and trying to mount the rad internally. Do you think I shouldn't bother and go straight to a Case Labs instead? The HAF X has been my dream case for a while.


Well if you would of asked me this the first time I looked at the HAF-X I would of said anything is better then that, but now I'm actually getting to like it. so to answer your question from my point of view if the HAF has everything you need then go for it, I like the look of the case labs but I couldn't justify spending that sort of money on a case. (but thats just me)


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;13953653*
> I have a HAF 922 with an externally mounted RX360. I was thinking of upgrading to the HAF X and trying to mount the rad internally. Do you think I shouldn't bother and go straight to a Case Labs instead? The HAF X has been my dream case for a while.


Personally, yes absolutely go with Case Labs.

As soon as I am able I am getting a TH10 with pedestal.









Edit: I also ordered 36 GT-2150 fans to go with it, mostly for the RADs.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iDaryl;13950462*
> im planning to buy one of those kits. could you guys do me a favor and confirm if *rx480* is compatible with the nzxt phantom chassis?i think i'll be adding another gpu waterblock too...maaaan i wanna see those temps for 2600k on 5ghz...


Just a litle thought if you want a big rad like the 480 these kits don't come with that rad so you would need to buy seperatly, in which case you would be better off getting a better quality custom loop


----------



## Jobotoo

Or get one of the kits AND an RX480. Sell the other RAD that comes with the kit, or use it also.

Tada!


----------



## yoyo711

Hello

I'm going to add pump (mcp 350)$35.00 only for my WC.
Where do I install ???? After XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump or before ???
1)cpu -> mcp 350 -> xspc x20 pump reservoir -> radiator
2) cpu -> xspc x20 pump reservoir -> mcp 350 -> radiator

Thanks


----------



## Boyboyd

I'd personally go;

Res/Pump --> Cpu --> MCP 350 --> Radiator --> Res/Pump


----------



## Jobotoo

I don't have experience with this, but couldn't that create issues for one if the pumps.

Wouldn't you want another Res before the second pump?

I'd love to know for future reference.


----------



## yoyo711

Lately xspc pump having a problem from other person so I was thinking future proof getting a other pump and it cost only $35.00.

Thanks


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;13955769*
> Lately xspc pump having a problem from other person so I was thinking future proof getting a other pump and it cost only $35.00.
> 
> Thanks


But are you planing on using the new pump at the same time, or instead of the RASA one?


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13956574*
> But are you planing on using the new pump at the same time, or instead of the RASA one?


New pump at Same time is it Problem ????????

Thanks


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;13956641*
> New pump at Same time is it Problem ????????
> 
> Thanks


I'm not sure, that is what I am trying to find out. If this is feasible, I might want to do the same, or have two separate loops.

Does someone know if running two pumps will create an issue on the same loop?


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13954605*
> Edit: I also ordered 36 GT-2150 fans to go with it, mostly for the RADs.


----------



## RYu311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;13956641*
> New pump at Same time is it Problem ????????
> 
> Thanks


correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe having 2 different pumps, especially ones with different specs, together in one loop is a bad idea. if doing multiple pumps, the same pumps should be used.


----------



## RYu311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13956722*


lol! i didnt realize he said *36* GT's! that, sir, is swag, indeed.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RYu311;13956982*
> lol! i didnt realize he said *36* GT's! that, sir, is swag, indeed.


Lol! Thanks! I'm hoping 36 will be enough.


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13957047*
> Lol! Thanks! I'm hoping 36 will be enough.


How do you intend to use 36? That's:
3 RX480's in push/pull; or
4 RX360's in push/pull; or
9 RX240's in push/pull.

And you hope that'll be enough?! Is your rig nuclear powered or something?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13957143*
> How do you intend to use 36? That's:
> 3 RX480's in push/pull; or
> 4 RX360's in push/pull; or
> 9 RX240's in push/pull.
> 
> And you hope that'll be enough?! Is your rig nuclear powered or something?


It is for a future build (probably November) and they will be push/pull on four RX480 Rads, with a few left over for the case. It may be overkill, so I may only go with two RADs and use the rest on other builds, but at $9 each, I didn't want to miss the opportunity.

So is 36 enough? (Just kidding)


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13957237*
> It is for a future build (probably November) and they will be push/pull on four RX480 Rads, with a few left over for the case. It may be overkill, so I may only go with two RADs and use the rest on other builds, but at $9 each, I didn't want to miss the opportunity.
> 
> So is 36 enough? (Just kidding)


I just realised I did my maths completely wrong. 480 rads in p/p have 8 fans, x4 = 36.









Fair enough, but 4 x 480's will probably be enough to passively cool them


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13957342*
> I just realised I did my maths completely wrong. 480 rads in p/p have 8 fans, x4 = 36.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fair enough, but 4 x 480's will probably be enough to passively cool them


LOL, your math is still wrong. 4x8 =32


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13957359*
> LOL, your math is still wrong. 4x8 =32


It's 2, nearly 3, in the morning. I've had a long day converting oxygen into carbon dioxide. Stop picking on me


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13957769*
> Stop picking on me


I will try, no promises though!


----------



## ezveedub

I currently use 10 GT fans in my M8 case. Six on two RX360s and four for the case itself. I can mount another 6 on the floor, but that's way overkill, LOL!


----------



## iDaryl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13954720*
> Just a litle thought if you want a big rad like the 480 these kits don't come with that rad so you would need to buy seperatly, in which case you would be better off getting a better quality custom loop


well i went to xspc store and yes they do have a rx480 kit.
http://www.watercoolingshop.co.uk/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX480-WaterCooling-Kit_ASLZC.aspx


----------



## iDaryl

would i be better off doing two loops?or one loop with two pumps?
choices:
a.have two x2o 750 pump/reservoir on a single loop with a rx480 rad
b.have two loops (same pump/res) but running on rx240 rads ea
c.have a single loop single pump/res for a rx480 rad.
d.other recommendations

im going to have a cpu block,maybe 3 gpu blocks(i have 1 gpu now,but going 2way sli + physx) and a full cover mobo block(dont have one yet,any recommendations for a p67 maximus iv?)
help is much appreciated

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13957769*
> It's 2, nearly 3, in the morning. I've had a long day converting oxygen into carbon dioxide. Stop picking on me


fftopic:LOL sigg'd:yessir:


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;13956672*
> I'm not sure, that is what I am trying to find out. If this is feasible, I might want to do the same, or have two separate loops.
> 
> Does someone know if running two pumps will create an issue on the same loop?


Anyone ????


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;13958063*
> Anyone ????


A few posts up someone commented that having two different pumps on the same loop in serial is probably not a good idea. Parallel I would think would be fine. But if someone has better knowledge of this, please speak up.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iDaryl;13958004*
> would i be better off doing two loops?or one loop with two pumps?
> choices:
> a.have two x2o 750 pump/reservoir on a single loop with a rx480 rad
> b.have two loops (same pump/res) but running on rx240 rads ea
> c.have a single loop single pump/res for a rx480 rad.
> d.other recommendations
> 
> im going to have a cpu block,maybe 3 gpu blocks(i have 1 gpu now,but going 2way sli + physx) and a full cover mobo block(dont have one yet,any recommendations for a p67 maximus iv?)
> help is much appreciated
> 
> fftopic:LOL sigg'd:yessir:


I think it would be easier to do one loop with one pump. Not sure what would be better. I'm hoping more people can chime in on this.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;13957886*
> I currently use 10 GT fans in my M8 case. Six on two RX360s and four for the case itself. I can mount another 6 on the floor, but that's way overkill, LOL!


But that's what were all about, right?









Looks at ezveedub's quad-Xfire setup . . .


----------



## [Adz]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;13958063*
> Anyone ????


Initially, it sounds like it'd be fine.

But then you have to take into consideration the type of pump. If it's a submerged pump like the X2O 750 in the kit, you wouldn't see any benefit from it except you could perhaps extend the length of the loop.

If it's a normal pump with a separate reservoir, I'd like to say it'd work fine, but one thing keeps bugging me: if the second pump is pushing out water faster than it's receiving it, you'll always have air in your loop. Normally, you have the reservoir which would act as a buffer, but if you're adding another pump directly into the loop as you would with a block, it wouldn't be viable.

Think of it this way: Pump A is the kit pump, Pump B is a secondary pump that is in the loop like a normal block would be. If, for example, you put Pump B after the CPU Waterblock, if the flow rate of the water coming out of the CPU block is less than the intake rate of Pump B, you're going to get air.
But if it's greater than the intake rate, it might work, or you might have a problem with having too much pressure (I'm not at all sure if that's even a concern in this situation).

*Note: I could be entirely wrong, but I'm just saying what I think.


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz];13958196*
> Initially, it sounds like it'd be fine.
> 
> But then you have to take into consideration the type of pump. If it's a submerged pump like the X2O 750 in the kit, you wouldn't see any benefit from it except you could perhaps extend the length of the loop.
> 
> If it's a normal pump with a separate reservoir, I'd like to say it'd work fine, but one thing keeps bugging me: if the second pump is pushing out water faster than it's receiving it, you'll always have air in your loop. Normally, you have the reservoir which would act as a buffer, but if you're adding another pump directly into the loop as you would with a block, it wouldn't be viable.
> 
> Think of it this way: Pump A is the kit pump, Pump B is a secondary pump that is in the loop like a normal block would be. If, for example, you put Pump B after the CPU Waterblock, if the flow rate of the water coming out of the CPU block is less than the intake rate of Pump B, you're going to get air.
> But if it's greater than the intake rate, it might work, or you might have a problem with having too much pressure (I'm not at all sure if that's even a concern in this situation).
> 
> *Note: I could be entirely wrong, but I'm just saying what I think.


Thanks


----------



## Elmateo487

Question:

When ordering clamps for the tubing for a Rasa kit, what size clamps do I need to order?

I ordered some 7/16ths and they are way too small.

I'm am new to watercooling, trying to get a hold of everything.


----------



## Greenback

the kit comes with clamps, but if you want different ones then I think it's the outside diamiter which is 5/8 if I remeber rightly, if you kept the original tubing


----------



## Elmateo487

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;13967661*
> the kit comes with clamps, but if you want different ones then I think it's the outside diamiter which is 5/8 if I remeber rightly, if you kept the original tubing


Thanks, it makes sense it my head. Just making sure it made sense in others heads also. Haha, so ill be ordering more clamps.

repped


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmateo487;13967729*
> Thanks, it makes sense it my head. Just making sure it made sense in others heads also. Haha, so ill be ordering more clamps.
> 
> repped


You coud just use zipties


----------



## Elmateo487

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


You coud just use zipties


That's what I am currently doing. But my comp is too pretty to skimp 5 bucks


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Elmateo487*


That's what I am currently doing. But my comp is too pretty to skimp 5 bucks










I use these


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


I use these


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;13970879*
> I use these


same here. i like the look of them. not willing to spend the extra for compression fittings


----------



## Sean Webster

I used those but didn't like them. I ended up just swapping them out for zip ties.


----------



## Penryn

Hey guys, anyone have a loud pump? Not rattling but more like it sounds like its rotating out of balance with a slight whine? It also is not constant, but comes and goes. THB I am not sure it is even the pump but I have stopped all the fans and it is the only thing I can think of.


----------



## conmanxtreme

Just Got My XSPC RX240 Kit up and running so i should get added, by the way i love it!









And guys i just entered a Tigerdirect Custom Gaming Rig contest on facebook, and wondered if some XSPC people would send some love my way lol, you can vote once a day until July 5th, Id Really Appreciate it guys!

Heres the link
http://apps.facebook.com/contestshq/contests/128192/voteable_entries/23656918?ogn=facebook&order=recency


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penryn;13989790*
> Hey guys, anyone have a loud pump? Not rattling but more like it sounds like its rotating out of balance with a slight whine? It also is not constant, but comes and goes. THB I am not sure it is even the pump but I have stopped all the fans and it is the only thing I can think of.


how far is your water level? i only installed my kit a couple months ago and topped the res off. after a couple weeks, the water level dropped very slightly due to the loss of air bubbles. i topped it off again and the humming/rattling sound went away. i believe the water helps to muffle the pump


----------



## nykeiscool

I'm confusing myself here... want to order the EK-Multioption reservoir... For aesthetic purposes.. But if I use that as a RES and than use the stock pump/res combo... the bay res needs water in it in order for the pump to work but i rather use the EK res to hold my water...

So i guess.. i would have to fill both res's up? if i wanted to do so


----------



## k1msta

does anyone know, if it be ok to run mcp 350 pump in the same loop in X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir? because im thinking about running

X20Pump/Reservoir > rs240 rad > cpu > 350 pump > RES 150 > rx240 rad > koolance 580 block > Tee with drain port > X20

would this be ok.. or would X20 alone be enough? or just delete Res150 and 350 pump

just a little worry about restriction in gpu block


----------



## Nynn

Can I join?











RX240


----------



## k1msta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nynn;13997410*
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RX240


NICE.. how is your temperature with that setup man? and is your pump pushing enough with 2 rad cpu and gpu?


----------



## youra6

I ran P95 for about 25 minutes on blend.

Temps seem a bit high. My ambient temperatures is around 72F and my VTT voltage is 1.33V.

Core voltage is provided in the CPU-Z


----------



## Nynn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k1msta;13997486*
> NICE.. how is your temperature with that setup man? and is your pump pushing enough with 2 rad cpu and gpu?


Pump is enough for CPU / Single GPU / Extra rad. May need to get a new one if I add any more.

CPU Idle: 31c
CPU Load: 48c

GPU idle: 34c
GPU load: 53c


----------



## sub7m19

someone help! rs240 or rx240 for a single cpu loop on a i7-2600k?


----------



## mrinnocent

well if room is not a problem go with RX...but either will keep cpu only cool


----------



## ali7up

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


That sounds like a good loop order.

Look at Koolance, XSPC, EK (non nickel), and others to see if there is a waterblock for those.


Looks like i would have to go with a universal gpu block.How is the rasa gpu ultimate block compared others?


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sub7m19*


someone help! rs240 or rx240 for a single cpu loop on a i7-2600k?


I will take the rx240. esp if you are going above 4.5ghz


----------



## terence52

anyway, i am having problems mounting my rasa block to my gigabyte 990xa-ud3.
anyone having this issues as well? i am at a big loss on what to do. the stock hairdryer aint doing much good either..


----------



## Kahbrohn

What issue specifically? Maybe a picture or two to help better understand.


----------



## skyline_king88

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


anyway, i am having problems mounting my rasa block to my gigabyte 990xa-ud3.
anyone having this issues as well? i am at a big loss on what to do. the stock hairdryer aint doing much good either..










hey can you post some temps when done i got same chip.. and i am thinking about getting rx240 with rx120.. and what volts and speed you running?


----------



## bdpakaknox

looks like my ~2week old X2O 720 pump might be dieing. Started making a buzzing noise that it has never made








Sent a video of it to XSPC to see if ill be able to RMA it.


----------



## ali7up

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bdpakaknox*


looks like my ~2week old X2O 720 pump might be dieing. Started making a buzzing noise that it has never made








Sent a video of it to XSPC to see if ill be able to RMA it.


Is this a common problem with xspc pumps. Seems like i'm reading a lot of members having issues. My kit has been running perfect for about 2 months and now its scared it gonna crap out any day.


----------



## bdpakaknox

Just gives me an excuse to upgrade to a new pump and separate res, but still im alittle annoyed.


----------



## k1msta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *k1msta*


does anyone know, if it be ok to run mcp 350 pump in the same loop in X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir? because im thinking about running

X20Pump/Reservoir > rs240 rad > cpu > 350 pump > RES 150 > rx240 rad > koolance 580 block > Tee with drain port > X20

would this be ok.. or would X20 alone be enough? or just delete Res150 and 350 pump

just a little worry about restriction in gpu block


Anyone?


----------



## Greenback

Whats going on with thier pumps just l8tly?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


Whats going on with thier pumps just l8tly?


This, makes me worried


----------



## ezveedub

IMO, I would get a DDC or D5 pump to replace the stock X20 750 unit once you get your system up and going. Other choice would be to build a XSPC system piece by piece. I still have my X20 pump, but its being used for my I7 860 which isn't used a lot.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *k1msta*


Anyone?


if you are only doing cpu + 1 gpu the RX240 could handle that on its own.
If you want to put the other pump in why not remove the xspc pump/res, the restriction in the gpu block will be there no matter what, if it's limit is 1L\\h then it wont matter how many pumps you use


----------



## kiwiasian

May I ask what exactly the issue with the pump is?

Also does anyone own any of these kits and have a HAF X


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


May I ask what exactly the issue with the pump is?

Also does anyone own any of these kits and have a HAF X


seems alot of posts about them going wrong just l8ly
I got a HAF-x on the way and will probably get one of these kits at some point


----------



## bdpakaknox

Hers my problem-

  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHiBbaeWwKc  



 
 Turn the volume WAY up.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bdpakaknox*


Hers my problem-

Turn the volume WAY up.


All honesty that noise is quieter than the clock and fans on my phantom and I just block them out which goes to show I probably wouldn't have noticed that


----------



## Alex132

Sounds like bubbles in the loop?


----------



## beetlespin

Will 1" 1/2 lenght size screw work mounting ultra kaze 3000 fans to rs XSPC? thx!


----------



## yoyo711

Hello OCN

I Think my xspc 5.25" pump is losing Power becuse my temp is going up 39C ide to 48C ide.

I try to get the XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25 Bay Reservoir for One Laing DDC Water Pump
and mcp 350 pump
later i try to video card to water for sli. Is it good Enough for the all system for pump ????????

thanks


----------



## bdpakaknox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


All honesty that noise is quieter than the clock and fans on my phantom and I just block them out which goes to show I probably wouldn't have noticed that










Its true, when the fans are all the way up they drone out the pump noise. 
However the pump was originally completely silent, which is why im concerned.


----------



## kiwiasian

Send an email to XSPC to confirm whether or not your pump is actually having problems. Mine was very quiet during my overnight leak test.


----------



## RobbyRoyal

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bdpakaknox*


Its true, when the fans are all the way up they drone out the pump noise. 
However the pump was originally completely silent, which is why im concerned.


If you can hear it, it is broken. Make a video and upload it to Daz. I got a new pump for the exact same reason. They are probably regretting putting that pump in their kit. I wouldn't be surprised to see the next version with a laing pump/res combo.

Personally, I just got a new on in the mail, but I'm buying a MCP35X and a reservoir. It's just not worth worrying about it.


----------



## Balsagna

Welp, it's been quite a while since I posted in this thread again.

I ended up switching to a Corsair 800D a while back and I never got around to updating the pics with the kit...

Also made a couple of changes, got a different LED kit, couple different parts etc.

Will update my original posts soon!


----------



## bdpakaknox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


Send an email to XSPC to confirm whether or not your pump is actually having problems. Mine was very quiet during my overnight leak test.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *RobbyRoyal*


If you can hear it, it is broken. Make a video and upload it to Daz. I got a new pump for the exact same reason. They are probably regretting putting that pump in their kit. I wouldn't be surprised to see the next version with a laing pump/res combo.

Personally, I just got a new on in the mail, but I'm buying a MCP35X and a reservoir. It's just not worth worrying about it.


Roger that, ive already contacted and sent the video to XSPC about the problem. 
Ill most likely be taking your approach Robby, replacing the res\\pump combo for something else.


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;14005343*
> Hello OCN
> 
> I Think my xspc 5.25" pump is losing Power becuse my temp is going up 39C ide to 48C ide.
> 
> I try to get the XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25 Bay Reservoir for One Laing DDC Water Pump
> and mcp 350 pump
> later i try to video card to water for sli. Is it good Enough for the all system for pump ????????
> 
> thanks


Anyone ????????????????


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline_king88;14003397*
> hey can you post some temps when done i got same chip.. and i am thinking about getting rx240 with rx120.. and what volts and speed you running?


just got the chip yesterday. lol. so i have no clocks to show until i can sort out my mess. lol. i still cant mount it somehow. haiz.


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;14007017*
> Anyone ????????????????


one 655 will be enough.


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terence52;14007355*
> one 655 will be enough.


NOt enough for one MCP350????


----------



## SadistBlinx

How can i clean out my 120 and 240Rad + Tubing?
I just dismantled my WC loop because of the tubing discoloration and little pieces in my Res (from the Rad) Just little bits that were never cleaned out properly.
Hot white vinegar in a bucket and just dump it all in there?


----------



## luXfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;14008910*
> How can i clean out my 120 and 240Rad + Tubing?
> I just dismantled my WC loop because of the tubing discoloration and little pieces in my Res (from the Rad) Just little bits that were never cleaned out properly.
> Hot white vinegar in a bucket and just dump it all in there?


I'm no expert in this, but from what I hear, you have one of two options;
1. Boil water, let it cool down (I don't know how long), then put it into your Rad. Plug it up, shake it several times, repeat. For the final clean, rinse with distilled water.
2. Mix a solution comprised of 10% white vinegar and 90% water. Put the solution into your Rad. Plug it up, shake it, repeat several times. For the final clean, you probably want to rinse the inside several times with distilled water.
I'm pretty sure these are the conventional cleaning methods...might want to wait for confirmation though









EDIT: I have no idea how to clean tubing...if it's discolored, I'd probably just go ahead and get new ones =\


----------



## SadistBlinx

>_> Took apart my cpu block and found some nasty stuff....
Here are the pics on the thread i made about it.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1051626-possible-bacterial-algae-breakdown-copper.html#post14009747

Ugh

Btw i cant get that dang rubber seal back in!


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;14009828*
> >_> Took apart my cpu block and found some nasty stuff....
> Here are the pics on the thread i made about it.
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1051626-possible-bacterial-algae-breakdown-copper.html#post14009747
> 
> Ugh
> 
> Btw i cant get that dang rubber seal back in!


Ugh!

That Im sure will never happen to my loop. I am using 15% car coolant in my loop.

You can clean your block using lemon and table salt. Cut lemon into 2 and dip the lemon in a table salt. Use the lemon as a scrub. Your block will go back to its original look, nice and spanking new after a series of rubbing.

Good luck!


----------



## Valodore

Got my XSPC Rasa 750 RS 360 earlier this week


----------



## giganews35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luXfer;14008945*
> I'm no expert in this, but from what I hear, you have one of two options;
> 1. Boil water, let it cool down (I don't know how long), then put it into your Rad. Plug it up, shake it several times, repeat. For the final clean, rinse with distilled water.
> 2. Mix a solution comprised of 10% white vinegar and 90% water. Put the solution into your Rad. Plug it up, shake it, repeat several times. For the final clean, you probably want to rinse the inside several times with distilled water.
> I'm pretty sure these are the conventional cleaning methods...might want to wait for confirmation though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I have no idea how to clean tubing...if it's discolored, I'd probably just go ahead and get new ones =\


I mixed those two step together and had great results.

1:10 distilled vinegar to water solution, boiled. I didn't wait for it to cool off though. Clean my waterblocks with it, barbs, and radiator. I also used lemon juice (high acidic concentration) to clean off the gunk off the waterblock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;14008910*
> How can i clean out my 120 and 240Rad + Tubing?
> I just dismantled my WC loop because of the tubing discoloration and little pieces in my Res (from the Rad) Just little bits that were never cleaned out properly.
> Hot white vinegar in a bucket and just dump it all in there?


You want to use new tubing, not worth the hassle or risk on reusing old tubing.

Once I get some cash I'm getting black 1/2" tubing. I heard blocking the sun from your loop decreases chances of any type of algae forming.


----------



## Boyboyd

It's so hot today. My CPU is loading 8 degrees higher than at night.


----------



## giganews35

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


It's so hot today. My CPU is loading 8 degrees higher than at night.


My Rig is standing next to the A/C vent









Folding 4.0 Ghz 1.45v at 39-41C.. I love hot days...because I know for sure the A/C will be on. lol


----------



## terence52

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


NOt enough for one MCP350????


if you want its also possible. and stop using so many question marks..


----------



## wetfit9

Hit the wrong buttons on the phone. Sorry guys

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk










OK, then...


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


It's so hot today. My CPU is loading 8 degrees higher than at night.


good news even hotter tomorrow if you live down south up in the 90's


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


good news even hotter tomorrow if you live down south up in the 90's


Nope, up north.

I might have to break the air conditioner at work out of retirement.


----------



## Foxdie

Do you guys think the x360 rasa with just 1 rad and using the given pump is good enough to cool 2 gtx 470s oc'd? Just the cards! nothing else.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxdie;14017868*
> Do you guys think the x360 rasa with just 1 rad and using the given pump is good enough to cool 2 gtx 470s oc'd? Just the cards! nothing else.


Yes


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxdie;14017868*
> Do you guys think the x360 rasa with just 1 rad and using the given pump is good enough to cool 2 gtx 470s oc'd? Just the cards! nothing else.


Yes it should be more than enough


----------



## SadistBlinx

How have people gone with an RMA the Pump / Res combo in *AUSTRALIA?*
Because normally here you would just send it back to the supplier but as this is a kit they cant just sent you a replacement part (i asked today on the phone).
Do you know if XSPC will ship a part internationally?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;14005343*
> Hello OCN
> 
> I Think my xspc 5.25" pump is losing Power becuse my temp is going up 39C ide to 48C ide.
> 
> I try to get the XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25 Bay Reservoir for One Laing DDC Water Pump
> and mcp 350 pump
> later i try to video card to water for sli. Is it good Enough for the all system for pump ????????
> 
> thanks


Have you added any new components to the loop? Do you have any bent tubing (also called kinks)? If so, what does your loop look like (order of components)? Make sure your radiator is clean. Take the fans off and if there is dust accumulation then you have your problem. Then you need to consider ambient temperature. If all of these issues are good, then you can start looking at the pump.

Always go with the basic stuff first...


----------



## Mesmero

Noob question for the gurus here, if I was going to cool something like a 6990 and a 2500k what is the most cost effective loop to buy? Also how much of a performance difference does the RX360 kit make over the RS360 kit?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


Hey guys, anyone have a loud pump? Not rattling but more like it sounds like its rotating out of balance with a slight whine? It also is not constant, but comes and goes. THB I am not sure it is even the pump but I have stopped all the fans and it is the only thing I can think of.


Hey Penryn!

Some people have loud pumps, others are dead silent. If it bothers you, you can ask XSPC for a replacement and they will ship it to you right away, no charge. (They usually won't even ask you to send back the one you have.)


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


Noob question for the gurus here, if I was going to cool something like a 6990 and a 2500k what is the most cost effective loop to buy? Also how much of a performance difference does the RX360 kit make over the RS360 kit?


I have a 2600 and a single GPU and I am using the RX360 with great results.

I would recommend the same one for you. It should be enough, and you can always add another RX240 or RX360 later if you want. Your setup will run a bit hotter than mine, that's why I suggest going with at least the RX360.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx*


How have people gone with an RMA the Pump / Res combo in *AUSTRALIA?*
Because normally here you would just send it back to the supplier but as this is a kit they cant just sent you a replacement part (i asked today on the phone).
Do you know if XSPC will ship a part internationally?


Yes. Contact XSPC and they will ship it to you right away.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Foxdie*


Do you guys think the x360 rasa with just 1 rad and using the given pump is good enough to cool 2 gtx 470s oc'd? Just the cards! nothing else.


Oh yeah.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


Noob question for the gurus here, if I was going to cool something like a 6990 and a 2500k what is the most cost effective loop to buy? Also how much of a performance difference does the RX360 kit make over the RS360 kit?


RX radiators cool more than their RS counterparts. They are thicker so they have more "fin area" to help dissipate heat. Because of being thicker, you need to keep an eye out on how/where you plan on installing it. Depending on your case an internal radiator install may or may not be a bit tricky.

For those two components I would recommend a 360 radiator definitely. You may want to stick with the RX IMO. The RS may be able to handle those two components you mention BUT you will be limited in expanding beyond that. remember one thing, when WC'ing, you are making an investment that you want to get the most out of. I'd personally spend the few extra dollars in getting the RX kit and rest easy knowing I could probably x-fire in the future and not have to make additional investments on cooling (other than additional blocks, fittings and tubing).


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valodore*


Got my XSPC Rasa 750 RS 360 earlier this week














































Congrats! Looking very nice!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


Noob question for the gurus here, if I was going to cool something like a 6990 and a 2500k what is the most cost effective loop to buy? Also how much of a performance difference does the RX360 kit make over the RS360 kit?


At minimum, a RX360 kit, no less. If you can piece the kit together, then get a XSPC reservoir for a DDC or D5 pump and skip the X20 750 pump in the kit. With 3 cores to cool, you're better off with this in the long run IMO.


----------



## unreal_calibur

would a rx360 fit on top of the haf-x? i read that its very difficult to fit a rx360. would a 932 be a better option?


----------



## Sean Webster

I just sold my RS360 kit.







Does that mean i'm no longer welcomed in this thread?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unreal_calibur;14028989*
> would a rx360 fit on top of the haf-x? i read that its very difficult to fit a rx360. would a 932 be a better option?


The HAF 932 make's it real easy to fit a RX360 + a RX120 in the rear


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valodore;14011201*
> Got my XSPC Rasa 750 RS 360 earlier this week


I should have picked up a rasa RS360 kit and an additional RS120 rad. The RX360 is kinda too big for my HAF X case and I had to do this to fit it inside ->

Plus I only can fit 5 fans on the rad, as the mosfet heatsink is blocking any chance of a 6th fan going on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;14029104*
> The HAF 932 make's it real easy to fit a RX360 + a RX120 in the rear


Omg, why didn't I get the HAF 932. I picked up my HAF X not knowing I would be going into watercooling


----------



## unreal_calibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;14029104*
> The HAF 932 make's it real easy to fit a RX360 + a RX120 in the rear


is that a push/pull on the 360?


----------



## unreal_calibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14030168*
> I should have picked up a rasa RS360 kit and an additional RS120 rad. The RX360 is kinda too big for my HAF X case and I had to do this to fit it inside ->
> 
> Plus I only can fit 5 fans on the rad, as the mosfet heatsink is blocking any chance of a 6th fan going on.
> 
> Omg, why didn't I get the HAF 932. I picked up my HAF X not knowing I would be going into watercooling


can you not close it? i'm guessing you can.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unreal_calibur;14030381*
> can you not close it? i'm guessing you can.


Yea, I can close it with no problems.


----------



## luXfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14030168*
> Plus I only can fit 5 fans on the rad, as the mosfet heatsink is blocking any chance of a 6th fan going on.


Don't quote me on this...but that might harm your fan motors...maybe you should get a more experienced opinion on this matter?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unreal_calibur;14030350*
> is that a push/pull on the 360?


No push only, That's why im using AP-15's to move some air







The Rx360 would be in the way to install the RX120 I have.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luXfer;14030444*
> Don't quote me on this...but that might harm your fan motors...maybe you should get a more experienced opinion on this matter?


I don't see how this can effect the fans motors, and if it does fail then I will just buy new ones


----------



## unreal_calibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;14030543*
> No push only, That's why im using AP-15's to move some air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Rx360 would be in the way to install the RX120 I have.


can't you just place fans on top of the case like Busyhand? or am i completely lost?


----------



## Mesmero

Thx for the input all.


----------



## Matt26LFC

These are some nice builds im seeing here guys, hoping to join you all soon. I've got an RX360 Kit here sat waiting to go in, however i have no mobo as its away for RMA









When im done, or if i have problems, i'll be back with pics and performance info. Its all going into an Antec 1200 Case


----------



## SadistBlinx

Lemon + Table salt = Best suggestion to clean cpu block.

*Before*









*After*


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx*


Lemon + Table sale = Best suggestion to clean cpu block.

*Before*

*After*











Use Direct link, not HTML code


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *unreal_calibur*


can't you just place fans on top of the case like Busyhand? or am i completely lost?


With the 932, fans on top have nothing to cover them







Sure I could put fans outside the case, But I wanted everything nice and clean inside.


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;14033552*
> Lemon + Table salt = Best suggestion to clean cpu block.
> 
> *Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *After*


Can you explain how you went about the cleaning process?

I'm guessing just squeezing some lemon juice, sprinkling some salt, and scrubbing with a toothbrush?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;14036026*
> With the 932, fans on top have nothing to cover them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure I could put fans outside the case, But I wanted everything nice and clean inside.


And.... Only two fans. The third one would take the place of the top bezel. I am not sure it would fit underneath.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14037851*
> And.... Only two fans. The third one would take the place of the top bezel. I am not sure it would fit underneath.


Yea you can only run 2 on top, But you can run 3 inside. It does vent out of the top bezel


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;14036577*
> Can you explain how you went about the cleaning process?
> 
> I'm guessing just squeezing some lemon juice, sprinkling some salt, and scrubbing with a toothbrush?


I cut a lemon into quarters dipped it in salt and scrubbed away with the lemon, i finished it off with a toothbrush to get small bits on the edges clean.
Very simple to tell you the truth. I found getting the base back on more difficult because of the O-Rings


----------



## bdpakaknox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bdpakaknox*


Roger that, ive already contacted and sent the video to XSPC about the problem. 
Ill most likely be taking your approach Robby, replacing the res\\pump combo for something else.


Bit of an update. After sending a video of the pumps noise to Dazhong, ive been advised that the sound is normal.








Looks like ill be doing a pump/res upgrade in the near future, along with a new case.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bdpakaknox*


Bit of an update. After sending a video of the pumps noise to Dazhong, ive been advised that the sound is normal.








Looks like ill be doing a pump/res upgrade in the near future, along with a new case.


 maybe your video didn't capture the sound properly. The pump I got is dead silent, even when I was leak testing and didn't have my computer powered up I couldn't hear the pump.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bdpakaknox*


Bit of an update. After sending a video of the pumps noise to Dazhong, ive been advised that the sound is normal.








Looks like ill be doing a pump/res upgrade in the near future, along with a new case.


How far away were you from the pump when you took the video? If the sound is faint, they will say it's "normal".


----------



## senson

Can I join??
RS240 kit + RX 240


----------



## bdpakaknox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14045016*
> How far away were you from the pump when you took the video? If the sound is faint, they will say it's "normal".


Had my phone right up against the front of the res. Sounds louder in real life then it does on the video, could be my phone.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bdpakaknox;14056235*
> Had my phone right up against the front of the res. Sounds louder in real life then it does on the video, could be my phone.


Yeah... see if you can get a hold of a digital camera with better capabilities. I had my camera about 8 inches away from the computer when I recorded and it was loud enough for Dahzong to say that that was totally unacceptable.


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14057309*
> Yeah... see if you can get a hold of a digital camera with better capabilities. I had my camera about 8 inches away from the computer when I recorded and it was loud enough for Dahzong to say that that was totally unacceptable.


Do you think there is one person who deals with the RMA's?
Also how long did it take for your new pump / res to arrive, any tracking numbers etc given?


----------



## GuitsBoy

Putting my RS240 together tonight after work. Cant wait to see what my 2500k can do. Im already running 4.8 @ 1.390v 24/7 on a corsair H60 at reasonable temps (push/pull scythes and DIY shrouds). Once I have it under a waterblock, I figure Ive got another .050 to .060 volts to play with.

Anyway, any suggestions on where I should mount my reservoir since all my drive bays are completely full. Im guessing it will be fine on the bottom of the case. Im planning on mounting the rad externally. Im going to do a push/pull, with the scythes pushing and the stock fans pulling. Any other suggestions before I dive in?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;14058060*
> Do you think there is one person who deals with the RMA's?
> Also how long did it take for your new pump / res to arrive, any tracking numbers etc given?


Dahzong is pretty much the head honcho there. as I was told, he is the actual designer of the pump and res. If anyone knows that equipment it's him.

It took him about a day, day and a half to agree my issue was unacceptable... maybe another day to get the replacement order out (it was shipped from their Texas center) and then maybe reached me in 7-8 days. All in all, maybe about 10 days.

Can't say that this is the norm though.


----------



## Afromee

You can add me, RS360 kit + RS240 rad


----------



## EnzoLT

Hey guys, thinking of buying this kit. I was wondering what else I would need, besides distilled water and a gpu block, to make a complete loop. Ill be cooling my cpu [waiting for Bulldozer] and my 6950.

Im very new to watercooling as I only used air for all my builds.

Thanks.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnzoLT;14062347*
> Hey guys, thinking of buying this kit. I was wondering what else I would need, besides distilled water and a gpu block, to make a complete loop. Ill be cooling my cpu [waiting for Bulldozer] and my 6950.
> 
> Im very new to watercooling as I only used air for all my builds.
> 
> Thanks.


You just need to pick some KillCoil which is anti-algae, antimicrobial 99.9% silver and that's about it. The kit contains everything you will need. However, I do recommend that you pick up better tubing (12-13 feet) as the one that comes with the kit sucks ballz big time.


----------



## EnzoLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14062469*
> You just need to pick some KillCoil which is anti-algae, antimicrobial 99.9% silver and that's about it. The kit contains everything you will need. However, I do recommend that you pick up better tubing (12-13 feet) as the one that comes with the kit sucks ballz big time.


Is there a specific thing im supposed to look for when buying the tubes?


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnzoLT;14062507*
> Is there a specific thing im supposed to look for when buying the tubes?


Personally, I use Feser tubing I picked up from Daz Mode, it's alot thicker and it does not collapse when you need to make sharp bends. Also, it does not discolour and turn brown like the one that comes with the kit.


----------



## Alex132

Would the stock/default ties/clamps be good enough to hold on 1/2" ID tubing?


----------



## EnzoLT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


Personally, I use Fezer tubing I picked up from Daz Mode, it's alot thicker and it does not collapse when you need to make sharp bends. Also, it does not discolour and turn brown like the one that comes with the kit.


Alright, Ill definitely keep that one in mind. Ill just browse through what they have when I order.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alex132*


Would the stock/default ties/clamps be good enough to hold on 1/2" ID tubing?


It's good enough if you use 7/16 ID tubing as it will be very tight on the barb. If you switch to 1/2 ID tubing, then I would probably purchase metal clamps or even go with compression fittings.


----------



## Taylorsci

If you go with the 7/16in tubing it's much easier to put on if you dip the end in hot(boiling) water, I would still use clamps regardless of if you use 7/16in or 1/2in tubing.


----------



## jacobrjett

does anyone use a rasa rs240 or a rs360 kit with an i5 2500k processor?

im wondering if i can get mine to 5ghz+ with a 360, or maybe a 240. i want to be able to push my volts to the highest acceptable amount and have decent temperatures







and was wondering what temps and clocks you guys get with a 2500k as its a common chip.

cheers


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacobrjett;14066345*
> does anyone use a rasa rs240 or a rs360 kit with an i5 2500k processor?
> 
> im wondering if i can get mine to 5ghz+ with a 360, or maybe a 240. i want to be able to push my volts to the highest acceptable amount and have decent temperatures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and was wondering what temps and clocks you guys get with a 2500k as its a common chip.
> 
> cheers


I don't have a 2500k, but from what I've just learned in another thread where a person has a 2500k @ 1.32v cooled by a hyper 212+ with temps peaking at 57c I think you'll be fine. You can get the 240 or the 360, up to you. The RX 240 performs roughly the same as a RS 360. If you want room for a gpu later on get an RX 360.


----------



## wetfit9

Just wondering two rx360 rads handle a 980x and 2 580's in sli

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;14066488*
> Just wondering two rx360 rads handle a 980x and 2 580's in sli
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup! Should even be able to overclock them well also.


----------



## wetfit9

Thanks I plan to overclock the gpu's once I move to my new case in a couple of weeks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pwnography6

OK opened up my resivoir today to start messing round with it and noticed it has some white specks on the inside of the acrylic . Should i be worried bout this ?


----------



## kiwiasian




----------



## luXfer

@kiwiasian: dang, looks so chilly in there!! I can't wait - just got my first pay-check, and I'm ready to SPLURGE.









Are those black cathodes with some sort of blue UVs? Or am I mistaken?


----------



## GuitsBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacobrjett;14066345*
> does anyone use a rasa rs240 or a rs360 kit with an i5 2500k processor?
> 
> im wondering if i can get mine to 5ghz+ with a 360, or maybe a 240. i want to be able to push my volts to the highest acceptable amount and have decent temperatures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and was wondering what temps and clocks you guys get with a 2500k as its a common chip.
> 
> cheers


Just installed an RS240 on my 2500k last night, replacing my old push/pull modded H60. My full load temps went from 77c to 64c and the arctic silver hasnt even cured yet. Im currently running 4.8 GHz at 1.39 volts.

I briefly tried for more, but even raising the volts to 1.45, I couldn't get it prime stable. I'm thinking I have to play with some settings other than vcore to get it to play nice at 5.0. In any event, its rock solid at 4.8, and much much cooler than my corsair H60 was. Definitely worth the money.

Just dont let the tubing kink (read next post)


----------



## GuitsBoy

*!!!! I Boiled my 2500K last night !!!!*

Uggh. Well, I pulled my first bonehead move in water cooling - after mere hours. I went to bed last night with my computer happily crunching a couple of bluray's at a nice max temp of 59c. I woke up this morning and found coretemp pegged at 98c! Everything looked OK, so I restarted thinking it was some kind of sensor error - no such luck. Booted right back at tJunction.

Turns out, as the loop heated up, and the tubing became more pliable, the leg from the pump to the radiator kinked itself. No flow past the processor, and it boiled out the water. I had a nice steam pocket flow out when I finally pulled the pump out and released the kink. Oh man, I feel ******ed now. I'm ordering a ton of 90* elbows right now to ensure this doesn't happen again. Luckily, I don't think the chip was damaged at all. Still rock solid at 4.8 GHz on the same voltage.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;14067016*


Nice setup... I had to laugh because even the paper towels look good!


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luXfer;14067260*
> @kiwiasian: dang, looks so chilly in there!! I can't wait - just got my first pay-check, and I'm ready to SPLURGE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those black cathodes with some sort of blue UVs? Or am I mistaken?


Yes, they are indeed UV cathodes. The $10 pair of 12"ers sold on Amazon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14069473*
> Nice setup... I had to laugh because even the paper towels look good!


Heh


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuitsBoy*


*!!!! I Boiled my 2500K last night !!!!*

Uggh. Well, I pulled my first bonehead move in water cooling - after mere hours. I went to bed last night with my computer happily crunching a couple of bluray's at a nice max temp of 59c. I woke up this morning and found coretemp pegged at 98c! Everything looked OK, so I restarted thinking it was some kind of sensor error - no such luck. Booted right back at tJunction.

Turns out, as the loop heated up, and the tubing became more pliable, the leg from the pump to the radiator kinked itself. No flow past the processor, and it boiled out the water. I had a nice steam pocket flow out when I finally pulled the pump out and released the kink. Oh man, I feel ******ed now. I'm ordering a ton of 90* elbows right now to ensure this doesn't happen again. Luckily, I don't think the chip was damaged at all. Still rock solid at 4.8 GHz on the same voltage.


Oh man! The tubing that comes with the kit sucks and needs angled adapters for sharp bends or it will collapse very easy as tubing walls are very weak compared to better tubing from Feser.


----------



## GuitsBoy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


Oh man! The tubing that comes with the kit sucks and needs angled adapters for sharp bends or it will collapse very easy as tubing walls are very weak compared to better tubing from Feser.


Yeah, It wasn't kinked when i first squeezed the reservoir into the case (sitting on the case floor since by drive bays are full). I knew the tubing had a little pressure on it though. Once the tubing heated up, it kinked itself.

I just placed an order for some primoflex blue tubing, and three koolance angled swivel barbs. Ill use two for the reservoir and one for the blind radiator fitting.


----------



## Annex

I ordered three enzotech 45 and 90 degree rotary adapters today.. I might not need to use all of them, but I've learned the hard way that there are some bends you can't make, and some you just don't want to make.


----------



## Agenesis

Hey guys just to be safe than sorry since I have my kit coming right after independence day, wouldhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047ELFLI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A15YNZR7YB053N] this tubing [/URL]work fine with the kit?

Also any tips/things to do that might be forgettable for first timers? Thanks


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;14077020*
> Hey guys just to be safe than sorry since I have my kit coming right after independence day, would this tubing work fine with the kit?
> 
> Also any tips/things to do that might be forgettable for first timers? Thanks


yup that tubing is fine (one of the best, actually).

just remember to take your time. plan everything out. measure twice, cut once.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;14077020*
> Hey guys just to be safe than sorry since I have my kit coming right after independence day, would this tubing work fine with the kit?
> 
> Also any tips/things to do that might be forgettable for first timers? Thanks


Yep, that tubing is great. (It's what I'm using)

Before you put it on the barbs, dip each end in hot (close to boiling) water for a few seconds, it will soften the ends and make it much easier to put on the barbs.


----------



## luXfer

In relation to the previously asked question - wouldn't any regular size tubing work with the kit? Is there any real reason anyone should stick with or veer away from the included 7/16 ID, 5/8 OD size?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luXfer*


In relation to the previously asked question - wouldn't any regular size tubing work with the kit? Is there any real reason anyone should stick with or veer away from the included 7/16 ID, 5/8 OD size?


there have been problems with the included tubing discoloring.
after a month or so, it starts getting a weird color tint, this is why most people buy different tubing.

-dimwit-


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dimwit13*


there have been problems with the included tubing discoloring.
after a month or so, it starts getting a weird color tint, this is why most people buy different tubing.

-dimwit-


I was going to say that earlier, but I think what he's actually asking (now that I've reread it) is why use 1/2in tubing instead of 7/16 and what the difference is.

I don't really know the answer to that question, maybe bigger tubing looks a bit better (to some people), I don't think it makes all that much of a difference in flow. I hear it's also a bit easier to work with.


----------



## luXfer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I was going to say that earlier, but I think what he's actually asking (now that I've reread it) is why use 1/2in tubing instead of 7/16 and what the difference is.

I don't really know the answer to that question, maybe bigger tubing looks a bit better (to some people), I don't think it makes all that much of a difference in flow. I hear it's also a bit easier to work with.


Yup









Maybe bigger/thicker tubing is harder to kink...?

Either way, I didn't think it would make a big difference - the kit seems compatible with most sizes of tubing, no? Thanks though


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luXfer*


Yup









Maybe bigger/thicker tubing is harder to kink...?

Either way, I didn't think it would make a big difference - the kit seems compatible with most sizes of tubing, no? Thanks though










You could use any size really (within reason), all you need is barbs that will fit it.


----------



## Greenback

I think most ppl stick with the 7/16 id 5/8 od is because it's the size that comes with the kit and most ppl are new to watercooling so use it as a refference. you can use upto 1/2 id tubing with out changing the barbs that come with the kit


----------



## fazio93

1/2 ID is what the kit's barbs are really designed for, but many people use 7/16 ID because it creates a much tighter seal. Really, you don't even need any clips/clamps when using 7/16 ID on 1/2 barbs, but with clamps/clips, the chances of it coming loose are very very slim.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;14083766*
> 1/2 ID is what the kit's barbs are really designed for, but many people use 7/16 ID because it creates a much tighter seal. Really, *you don't even need any clips/clamps when using 7/16 ID on 1/2 barbs*, but with clamps/clips, the chances of it coming loose are very very slim.


I would personaly recommend using clamps seen a few ppl on here have tubing come lose. Iv'e also seen ppl use 3/8 ID tubing on 1/2 barbs


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14083795*
> I would personaly recommend using clamps seen a few ppl on here have tubing come lose. Iv'e also seen ppl use 3/8 ID tubing on 1/2 barbs


of course you should use clamps no matter what. just saying, 7/16 on 1/2 barbs is very secure. that combined with clamps is even better.


----------



## robert125381

whats the preformance diference beetween the rs and rx series 240 rad?


----------



## Greenback

from the FAQ

RS240 kit: slightly larger pump, radiator is 2x the size of the RS120, built to hand CPU and maybe GPU but expect higher temperatures than CPU only loop

RX240 kit: once again, thicker radiator, easier to cool with slower fans, can easily support CPU and GPU loop

if that helps


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;14083766*
> 1/2 ID is what the kit's barbs are really designed for, but many people use 7/16 ID because it creates a much tighter seal. Really, you don't even need any clips/clamps when using 7/16 ID on 1/2 barbs, but with clamps/clips, the chances of it coming loose are very very slim.


It is still a good idea to secure it with a clamp/ziptie/worm clamp nonetheless. The repeated cycles of heat when your PC is turned on and off or when your components are idling or loading can cause the tubing to come loose after a long period of time.

The included palstic clamps that come with the kit actually work quite well


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robert125381;14084104*
> whats the performance difference between the rs and rx series 240 rad?


I don't know the exact thermal dissipation difference, but the RX 240 performs very similarly to the RS 360 if that gives you any idea.

RS 360:









RS 240:


----------



## broke

hey guys, id love to ask some of you a question about maintenance on the RX240 kit. mainly just how often does it require a drain and clean? i really love the idea of going with a custom loop and im not actually that concerned about leaks as i plan to use some good compression fittings and leak test for 24hrs before i install it. ive done quite a bit of reading about WC but just wanted to know some first hand opinions from people who actually live with WC set ups.

thanks


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broke;14084993*
> hey guys, id love to ask some of you a question about maintenance on the RX240 kit. mainly just how often does it require a drain and clean? i really love the idea of going with a custom loop and im not actually that concerned about leaks as i plan to use some good compression fittings and leak test for 24hrs before i install it. ive done quite a bit of reading about WC but just wanted to know some first hand opinions from people who actually live with WC set ups.
> 
> thanks


If you use distilled water and a silver kill coil, it should be years before you need to do any maintenance.

If you add any chemical additives or dyed coolant then you should expect more frequent maintenance (maybe every 4 - 8 months)


----------



## broke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;14085009*
> If you use distilled water and a silver kill coil, it should be years before you need to do any maintenance.
> 
> If you add any chemical additives or dyed coolant then you should expect more frequent maintenance (maybe every 4 - 8 months)


wow, that's much better than i was expecting. i did plan on distilled water and a silver kill coil. thanks for your reply


----------



## luXfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14084910*
> I don't know the exact thermal dissipation difference, but the RX 240 performs very similarly to the RS 360 if that gives you any idea.
> 
> RS 360:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RS 240:


If I remember correctly, the difference should be the rad thickness...? If that's true, then fan speeds should play a big role; thinner rads benefit more from higher CFM than do thicker ones.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luXfer;14085074*
> If I remember correctly, the difference should be the rad thickness...? If that's true, then fan speeds should play a big role; thinner rads benefit more from higher CFM than do thicker ones.


Yes the difference is rad thickness, but he asked about performance, which is what I gave him.







At the bottom are the fan speeds to give you an idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broke;14084993*
> hey guys, id love to ask some of you a question about maintenance on the RX240 kit. mainly just how often does it require a drain and clean? i really love the idea of going with a custom loop and im not actually that concerned about leaks as i plan to use some good compression fittings and leak test for 24hrs before i install it. ive done quite a bit of reading about WC but just wanted to know some first hand opinions from people who actually live with WC set ups.
> 
> thanks


All you really need to do is drain the loop, which you should do every 6 months, you might get away with doing it every year, but I'd recommend 6 months. After a year you should also clean out your blocks.


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;14077020*
> Hey guys just to be safe than sorry since I have my kit coming right after independence day, would this tubing work fine with the kit?
> 
> Also any tips/things to do that might be forgettable for first timers? Thanks


I use the same size tubing its great what u paid for and & price


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14085140*
> Yes the difference is rad thickness, but he asked about performance, which is what I gave him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the bottom are the fan speeds to give you an idea.
> 
> All you really need to do is drain the loop, which you should do every 6 months, you might get away with doing it every year, but I'd recommend 6 months. After a year you should also clean out your blocks.


I just use distilled in my loop for being safe if u use dye it can be alot work clean it up


----------



## KillerMike84

Here is my second Computer

Before









After









At Night Picture's

































Start to Finish


----------



## pwnography6

Got a HAF-X case on the way is there any probs installing the res in the lower 3 bays? Or should it all be ok.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;14077020*
> Hey guys just to be safe than sorry since I have my kit coming right after independence day, would this tubing work fine with the kit?
> 
> Also any tips/things to do that might be forgettable for first timers? Thanks


clean the rad out b4 you use it in the loop to get rid of any left over flux and such, you dont want it in your loop


----------



## Agenesis

Thanks for the tips and answers guys, I've still got a few more questions:

Would these screws  work for push pull configurations using 25mm fans?

And as for the clamps, is it one size fits all? Or would I need to buy new clamps to use with

  1/2IN ID X 3/4IN OD tubing?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


Thanks for the tips and answers guys, I've still got a few more questions:

Would these screws  work for push pull configurations using 25mm fans?

And as for the clamps, is it one size fits all? Or would I need to buy new clamps to use with 1/2IN ID X 3/4IN OD tubing?


The clamps are not one size fits all, you will need to purchase another size. I'm not sure which exactly though.

I'm not sure about the screws.


----------



## eurosport360

Should I replace my current krappy feser red dye liquid that I have been using for 6 months with either:

this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/70...Z6x&mv_pc=2572

Or distilled water from Stop and Shop in combination with this killcoil stuff that I just purchased for my next coolant.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...Z6x&mv_pc=3102

Also, how would one go about draining the rasa 750 RS240? 
Would you open up the reservoir and turn the computer upside down? Or should I buy around 3 gallons of distilled water plus some vinegar, and then circulate a gallon or so of some hot distilled water with 5 or so drops of vinegar....all the while taking out a hose.

If I did the second way, how would I take out a hose without spilling the liquid everywhere?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eurosport360*


Should I replace my current krappy feser red dye liquid that I have been using for 6 months with either:

this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/70...Z6x&mv_pc=2572

Or distilled water from Stop and Shop in combination with this killcoil stuff that I just purchased for my next coolant.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...Z6x&mv_pc=3102

Also, how would one go about draining the rasa 750 RS240? 
Would you open up the reservoir and turn the computer upside down? Or should I buy around 3 gallons of distilled water plus some vinegar, and then circulate a gallon or so of some hot distilled water with 5 or so drops of vinegar....all the while taking out a hose.

If I did the second way, how would I take out a hose without spilling the liquid everywhere?


Distilled water + a kill coil is all you need. If you used dye you should also consider cleaning out your water blocks.

Not having a drain makes it a bit harder to empty your loop, I'd say stick your res in/over a bucket and twist your computer around to get all the water out, if you have an extra pair of hands ask them to hold it over the bucket while you twist it around.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


Thanks for the tips and answers guys, I've still got a few more questions:

Would these screws  work for push pull configurations using 25mm fans?

And as for the clamps, is it one size fits all? Or would I need to buy new clamps to use with 1/2IN ID X 3/4IN OD tubing?


I would suggest going to http://www.xs-pc.com/contactus/ and emailing them about the screws you can also ask about the clamps just for your own peace of mind, I emailed them they replied within an hour


----------



## Mit Namso

can't you people have a page of temperatures under common loads


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mit Namso*


can't you people have a page of temperatures under common loads


well as the ambient has an effect everyone would get different temps, making a page with a large range of numbers

edit: plus different cpu's run different amounts of heat


----------



## fazio93

yup, temps are largely based on ambients


----------



## PCBung

Hi All,

About to take the plunge for the RX360 RASA kit, I'm also going to order a block for my 6950. Just a few questions though:

1. Worth getting some better tubing now or wait until the XSPC stuff goes mucky
2. I have an HAF-X and a Asus Z68 mobo, will the 3 fans & rad fit in the space provided? I did a quick measure up (8.8cm) and it looked to fit but would be tight...
3. I appear to have a newer version 6950 (fan is in the centre & no bios switch) will a any 6950/6970 block fit it?

Regards
Steve


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


Hi All,

About to take the plunge for the RX360 RASA kit, I'm also going to order a block for my 6950. Just a few questions though:

1. Worth getting some better tubing now or wait until the XSPC stuff goes mucky
2. I have an HAF-X and a Asus Z68 mobo, will the 3 fans & rad fit in the space provided? I did a quick measure up (8.8cm) and it looked to fit but would be tight...
3. I appear to have a newer version 6950 (fan is in the centre & no bios switch) will a any 6950/6970 block fit it?

Regards
Steve


1. yes better off getting it now save stripping the loop down later something like Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT 
2. By the messurements Iv'e seen you should be ok the width is between 58mm and 63mm so the max should be 88mm
3. it would depend if your gfx's pcb is still refference or not most blocks are for refference cards


----------



## DEEBS808

I am about to do my first computer build.I purchased a Noctua NH-D14 and I really wanted to get a Rasa kits.I have a H.A.F X and wanted to know which kit would be good for me.My Sig rig is what I am using it for.Thanks.Hope someone can help me.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DEEBS808*


I am about to do my first computer build.I purchased a Noctua NH-D14 and I really wanted to get a Rasa kits.I have a H.A.F X and wanted to know which kit would be good for me.My Sig rig is what I am using it for.Thanks.Hope someone can help me.


would depend on what you want to cool and how much overclock,

Cpu rs240 or RX240 
gpu + cpu get the RX360


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


would depend on what you want to cool and how much overclock,

Cpu rs240 or RX240 
gpu + cpu get the RX360


I was thinking about cooling my CPU(2600k or 2500k)+GPU(gtx 580)
and later upgrade to 2way or 3way SLI.Something that I can upgrade easily if possible or should I just go with a customs setup?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DEEBS808*


I was thinking about cooling my CPU(2600k or 2500k)+GPU(gtx 580)
and later upgrade to 2way or 3way SLI.Something that I can upgrade easily if possible or should I just go with a customs setup?


Well if you are going 3 way sli I would suggest a custom loop working on the end goal, As if you get a kit now you will need a new pump bigger rad later down the line, so in the long run it would save you money getting what you need now for your end setup 
I think that makes sense


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


Well if you are going 3 way sli I would suggest a custom loop working on the end goal, As if you get a kit now you will need a new pump bigger rad later down the line, so in the long run it would save you money getting what you need now for your end setup 
I think that makes sense










I would agree with this, although you won't need a bigger rad, you'll just need another one. If I remember correctly it's a tight fit for an RX 360 in an haf x. Since you plan on 2 or 3 way sli later on you'll need at least another RX 240.

If I were you I would get a case that can accommodate two rx 360s, get two rx 360's and be done with it.


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


Hi All,

About to take the plunge for the RX360 RASA kit, I'm also going to order a block for my 6950. Just a few questions though:

1. Worth getting some better tubing now or wait until the XSPC stuff goes mucky
2. I have an HAF-X and a Asus Z68 mobo, will the 3 fans & rad fit in the space provided? I did a quick measure up (8.8cm) and it looked to fit but would be tight...
3. I appear to have a newer version 6950 (fan is in the centre & no bios switch) will a any 6950/6970 block fit it?

Regards
Steve


You can use rasa blocks for your gpu... thats what i will be using on my 6950's when they arrive.


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I would agree with this, although you won't need a bigger rad, you'll just need another one. If I remember correctly it's a tight fit for an RX 360 in an haf x. Since you plan on 2 or 3 way sli later on you'll need at least another RX 240.

If I were you I would get a case that can accommodate two rx 360s, get two rx 360's and be done with it.


I second this!

Definitely do some research on cases now and save yourself some trouble.. Also, I wouldn't buy any WC'ing stuff until you have the case thing sorted out.. Once you have a case you think can support a couple large rads, then you should start working on the WC stuff..

I'd check out this thread and case:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...m-club-15.html

Looks like it has a LOAD of options of WC'ers


----------



## DEEBS808

Damn I knew I should have gotten the 800d.Oh well looks like I have another thing to sell.Might put up my H.A.F X and My NH-D14 for sale if I do decide to watercool.


----------



## PCBung

Well I have placed my order:

XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 WaterCooling Kit x1
EK FC6970 Full Cover Waterblock for AMD/ATI 6970 x1
1/4" Thread Barb Fitting for 1/2" ID Tubing x2 
Thermochill 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Flex Tubing -3 Metres
Pulse Modding 99.9% Silver Kill Coil x1
De-ionised Water 1 Litre x1
PrimoChill UV Red PVC Hose Clip for 3/4" x8

Should be here Wednesday so will build it up at work to leak test, saving me time later on.

Any ideas on what sort of temps I will get at stock speeds? ATM i'm ~34 idle and ~68 load.

Which is the best config:

RES/PUMP > RAD > CPU > GPU >RES/PUMP

Or

RES/PUMP > CPU > RAD > GPU > RES/PUMP

Many Thanks
Steve

I didn't got for the Primochill stuff as it was Â£6 a meter and the Thermochill was Â£2.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


Well I have placed my order:

XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 WaterCooling Kit x1
EK FC6970 Full Cover Waterblock for AMD/ATI 6970 x1
1/4" Thread Barb Fitting for 1/2" ID Tubing x2 
Thermochill 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Flex Tubing -3 Metres
Pulse Modding 99.9% Silver Kill Coil x1
De-ionised Water 1 Litre x1
PrimoChill UV Red PVC Hose Clip for 3/4" x8

Should be here Wednesday so will build it up at work to leak test, saving me time later on.

Any ideas on what sort of temps I will get at stock speeds? ATM i'm ~34 idle and ~68 load.

Which is the best config:

RES/PUMP > RAD > CPU > GPU >RES/PUMP

Or

RES/PUMP > CPU > RAD > GPU > RES/PUMP

Many Thanks
Steve

I didn't got for the Primochill stuff as it was Â£6 a meter and the Thermochill was Â£2.


Any chance you can change that de-ionized water for distilled water instead?

As for the order, I like having the rad outlet directly into the CPU but I think the temp diff is minimal. Also, keep in mind to has s short a loop as possible. This means looking for as direct a tubing route as possibe as well.


----------



## PCBung

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...-cid-1760.html < which is best?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...-cid-1760.html < which is best?


http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...pid-12532.html

this 1 if you are getting it from there unless you can get it from a local garage or shop all you need is Distilled water


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...-cid-1760.html < which is best?


don't use those, go to the grocery store and buy a gallon few liters of distilled water. It is much cheaper and does the same thing.


----------



## fazio93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


don't use those, go to the grocery store and buy a gallon few liters of distilled water. It is much cheaper and does the same thing.


unfortunately, most users from england say it's not available or super cheap like here in america


----------



## Greenback

is pure water the same as distilled water


----------



## fazio93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


is pure water the same as distilled water


"pure" water = only hydrogen and oxygen (which is what you want)

but just because the label says 'pure' doesn't mean it's really pure
make sure it says "steam distilled" or something like that


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


is pure water the same as distilled water


Hard to say, but I doubt it.


----------



## Greenback

it's just you can get pure water in chemists


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


it's just you can get pure water in chemists


If you're talking about Boots then their 5L jugs of it are de-ionized not distilled. Still good enough though.


----------



## Greenback

well if we are talking boots it will probably be cheaper getting mayhems from specialtech


----------



## Boyboyd

I use halford's battery top up water (deionized). It's Â£4 a gallon.


----------



## KillerMike84

Please Update the List


----------



## gl0ry

Building a 2600k with a chip that's been binned at 5.4ghz.

I spent the whole day researching top end air coolers, not being satisfied with any of them and how bulky they are...

I think I'm about to impulse buy a Rasa 750 complete kit.. The noctuas are close to 100, and I have always wanted to try water, didn't realize how affordable they are.

So far I have the rasa kit and

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...P10-758-R.html

in my cart. I've read mbudden's faq to an extent. From what I've read I plan to use distilled water, is there anything else I need to know?


----------



## wetfit9

A sliver kilcore.

Also question, how long are they good for. Sliver kilcore that is.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


A sliver kilcore.

Also question, how long are they good for. Sliver kilcore that is.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You don't really have to worry about it running out, I don't see it dissolving completely in your life time.


----------



## gl0ry

Since I'm new to water cooling I have no idea, but what's the best TIM for the rasa 750 kits? mbuddens faq says the TIM it comes with isn't the greatest... I have AS5 laying around, but since I am in pursuit of lowest possible temps, could someone give me their outlook?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


Since I'm new to water cooling I have no idea, but what's the best TIM for the rasa 750 kits? mbuddens faq says the TIM it comes with isn't the greatest... I have AS5 laying around, but since I am in pursuit of lowest possible temps, could someone give me their outlook?


Well if you want the best it's probably Indigo Xtreme, but MX-3/IC Diamond/ect should work fine.


----------



## Greenback

this may help


----------



## gl0ry

Thank you. I think I'll pick up the PK-1 due to pricing.

Is the rasa750 kit pretty easy to set up? This being the first time I'm trying water cooling. I have a general idea of how it works just by researching, but for some reason I'm a little nervous now too.


----------



## Greenback

well I haven't set 1 up so cann't speak from personal experience but there are plenty of vids I looked at on youtube that make it seem easy enough, as the res and pump are all in 1 give only 6 connections res/pump>cpu>rad>res/pump


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


Thank you. I think I'll pick up the PK-1 due to pricing.

Is the rasa750 kit pretty easy to set up? This being the first time I'm trying water cooling. I have a general idea of how it works just by researching, but for some reason I'm a little nervous now too.


It's really not that hard, just make sure you have a clear assembly plan in your head so you don't accidentally mess anything up. It would probably help to watch one or two videos of someone else installing their watercooling kit.


----------



## PCBung

Sadly I am having to wait abit longer







, EK have not delivered the 6950 block to Specialtech so I am waiting on that at the moment. The suspense is killing me lol


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


Sadly I am having to wait abit longer







, EK have not delivered the 6950 block to Specialtech so I am waiting on that at the moment. The suspense is killing me lol


Hope it's not nickle


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBung;14115638*
> Sadly I am having to wait abit longer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , EK have not delivered the 6950 block to Specialtech so I am waiting on that at the moment. The suspense is killing me lol


hope you don't need customer service Ek have none


----------



## wermad

wow, I didn't realize Ceramique was lagging, maybe its an older design







. Time to pick up new tube of tim


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14116647*
> wow, I didn't realize Ceramique was lagging, maybe its an older design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Time to pick up new tube of tim


I still run Ceramique on everything works great for me


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;14116751*
> I still run Ceramique on everything works great for me


I have a 10g tube with 2g left. I'll get some mx2 from the local Electronic store, just a small tube, to compare temps.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;14116814*
> I have a 10g tube with 2g left. I'll get some mx2 from the local Electronic store, just a small tube, to compare temps.


Im going to try some MX-4 soon but right now my i7 875K @4.329GHz 1.36v only hits 65c


----------



## ezveedub

The only thing I like about Ceramique is that it last pretty long. Most other TIMs dry out. I use Prolimatech PK-1 now on my CPU, but it has to be changed every year. For GPUs, I only use Ceramique. I'm not taking a GPU waterblock off every year. Ain't worth dealing with replacing thermal pads along with TIM.


----------



## thresh0ld

has anyone ever tried using the *xspc universal gpu block*? I just installed it on my evga GTX470 together with my rasa 750 rs240 kit and i'm hitting really dangerous temps upto 99c! I decided to use the stock plate of the GTX470 since I could not find any ramsinks available at my area, could this be one factor that is affecting my temps? On idle though, its pretty normal, ranging between 45-55c. It only gets worse when playing games and have it maxed out.

My loop setup: RES -> CPU -> GPU -> RAD

If anyone here is using it and manages to get lower load temps than mine, can you help me out and perhaps give me pointers as to what else I should consider?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thresh0ld;14117368*
> has anyone ever tried using the *xspc universal gpu block*? I just installed it on my evga GTX470 together with my rasa 750 rs240 kit and i'm hitting really dangerous temps upto 99c! I decided to use the stock plate of the GTX470 since I could not find any ramsinks available at my area, could this be one factor that is affecting my temps? On idle though, its pretty normal, ranging between 45-55c. It only gets worse when playing games and have it maxed out.
> 
> My loop setup: RES -> CPU -> GPU -> RAD
> 
> If anyone here is using it and manages to get lower load temps than mine, can you help me out and perhaps give me pointers as to what else I should consider?


Did you leave the clear protective film on the block? I don't think the VRM temps are included in the reported gpu temp.


----------



## thresh0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14117412*
> Did you leave the clear protective film on the block? I don't think the VRM temps are included in the reported gpu temp.


I'm not sure if I recall any clear film when I dismounted the case and heatsink from the block. Also, I didn't get a chance to record the vrm temps while I was monitoring it, perhaps I'll take a look at it later.

After looking at some LC setups in other forums, do you think putting a rad in between the cpu and gpu would help? I was thinking of the RX360 as some have recommended, only its a bit expensive...I would only buy it if its really necessary..what do you guys think?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thresh0ld;14117582*
> I'm not sure if I recall any clear film when I dismounted the case and heatsink from the block. Also, I didn't get a chance to record the vrm temps while I was monitoring it, perhaps I'll take a look at it later.
> 
> After looking at some LC setups in other forums, do you think putting a rad in between the cpu and gpu would help? I was thinking of the RX360 as some have recommended, only its a bit expensive...I would only buy it if its really necessary..what do you guys think?


That's not the problem. Try taking the block off, and see if you left the protective film on the bottom.


----------



## thresh0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14117657*
> That's not the problem. Try taking the block off, and see if you left the protective film on the bottom.


ok will check it out later when I get back home, thanks for the tip!


----------



## Agenesis

So I just got the RS360 setup and...I'm getting the same temps as my D14?









I'm at 3.6ghz undervolted...is it just that I'm not putting out enough heat? I was hoping I'd get in the 40s range since my ambient is around 27c.










And a neat little thing is that I only get 2c higher while running the radiator passively


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;14119388*
> So I just got the RS360 setup and...I'm getting the same temps as my D14?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at 3.6ghz undervolted...is it just that I'm not putting out enough heat? I was hoping I'd get in the 40s range since my ambient is around 27c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a neat little thing is that I only get 2c higher while running the radiator passively


yup, you need to push it. I stayed under 70c w/ my old i7 950 @ 4.4 when running prime and 65c @ 4.2. Plus, the rasa cpu block takes up little space compared to the giant noctua.


----------



## wetfit9

Anyone know how to take apart the gentle typhoon fans so the blades cab be painted.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Anyone know how to take apart the gentle typhoon fans so the blades cab be painted.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...r-fans-uv.html


----------



## Agenesis

This is pretty neat, I can't seem to break 80c even when pumping my 930 with 1.47 volts.

Also anyone figured out a way to reduce the res/pump vibrations? The pump itself is quite quiet (more or less the same noise level as D14, for any D14 owners that might be interested), but the vibrations are oscillating the noise throughout the case and making it louder. I'd take off my tool-less bay drives and use rubber screws, but I don't think any rubber screws can hold 1.5 liter of water enclosed in acrylic...

---
On further inspection it looks like the pump/res is being secured between the two bay drives...looks like I'll need to stick some sort of rubber between the slots.


----------



## jamborhgini313

Just got my new replacement pump from xspc. Gonna install later tomorrow. Xspc has very good customer service


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


This is pretty neat, I can't seem to break 80c even when pumping my 930 with 1.47 volts.

Also anyone figured out a way to reduce the res/pump vibrations? The pump itself is quite quiet (more or less the same noise level as D14, for any D14 owners that might be interested), but the vibrations are oscillating the noise throughout the case and making it louder. I'd take off my tool-less bay drives and use rubber screws, but I don't think any rubber screws can hold 1.5 liter of water enclosed in acrylic...

---
On further inspection it looks like the pump/res is being secured between the two bay drives...looks like I'll need to stick some sort of rubber between the slots.


I used screws to secure the bay res a bit more instead using the tool-less holder(s). I did manage to reduce vibrations. If you are still having noise, just use rubber washers to quell the noise.


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I used screws to secure the bay res a bit more instead using the tool-less holder(s). I did manage to reduce vibrations. If you are still having noise, just use rubber washers to quell the noise.



Releasing the drive bay locks didn't reduce the noise because the bay is being secured by these little square depressions...or whatever they're called









I'm gonna have to ghetto mod some rubber bands into those ridges because the noise is driving me insane


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamborhgini313;14132932*
> Just got my new replacement pump from xspc. Gonna install later tomorrow. Xspc has very good customer service


+1 to this, mine died a month ago and the reasons are unkown, after contacting xspc i got my pump two days later direct from japan, my new pump is runing nicely good rith now, i hope it last way more time than the first one


----------



## Alex132

Wondering if I should stick with my TRUE120, get the RS360 kit or save up for 7xxx / Keplar









I mean I don't have a temp problem at all, just love wc looks and the noise would be reduced.


----------



## gl0ry

Just got my kit 750/240 kit in, i'm just inspecting parts and noticed that the radiator rattles when I shake it, is this normal?


----------



## Alex132

Flush it out


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry;14137714*
> Just got my kit 750/240 kit in, i'm just inspecting parts and noticed that the radiator rattles when I shake it, is this normal?


Probably some debris leftover in it from manufacturing. rinse it with boiling water (cooled for a minute) and a few drops of vinegar if you want. repeat until the water coming out is clear. then rinse once more with distilled.


----------



## PCBung

Got my kitm, hooked it all up etc and currently my CPU is 25c lower on full load! I don't think I have managed to get all the air out of the system yet though. Also I am only running my 2x 200cm fans on top, I still need to mount 2x 120MM (can't fit the 2rd due to the 8Pin power)

Sadly the EK block doesnt fit my 6950 card, eveything to the left of the card matches the block but the right hand side doesn't (missing 2 mount points)

Regards
Steve


----------



## Alex132

200cm?

Lol


----------



## PCBung

Lmao wheres my head at! 200mm


----------



## Greenback

Iv'e been looking into getting 1 of these kits to turn this not to bad rig into a nice gaming 1 for a while.
But I have noticed just lately that I'm gaming less and less, in fact the last 3 afternoons I had the choice of gaming or taking my 2 year old to the park and chose the park. The money I put by to get a Rx360 kit has now gone on a ride on train for his birthday.
So the question is I'm nearly 45 have I hit mid-life crisis and full blown fatherhood.


----------



## GuitsBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14139017*
> Iv'e been looking into getting 1 of these kits to turn this not to bad rig into a nice gaming 1 for a while.
> But I have noticed just lately that I'm gaming less and less, in fact the last 3 afternoons I had the choice of gaming or taking my 2 year old to the park and chose the park. The money I put by to get a Rx360 kit has now gone on a ride on train for his birthday.
> So the question is I'm nearly 45 have I hit mid-life crisis and full blown fatherhood.


Sell the kid and use the money for dual RX360 kits, and GPU water blocks.









Sounds like you have your priorities in order. I salute you.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


Iv'e been looking into getting 1 of these kits to turn this not to bad rig into a nice gaming 1 for a while.
But I have noticed just lately that I'm gaming less and less, in fact the last 3 afternoons I had the choice of gaming or taking my 2 year old to the park and chose the park. The money I put by to get a Rx360 kit has now gone on a ride on train for his birthday.
So the question is I'm nearly 45 have I hit mid-life crisis and full blown fatherhood.


Yup, time to put away those big boy toys for the next few years.

I'll take that useless and wasteful HAF X and 6870 off your hands now, please and thank you.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuitsBoy*


Sell the kid and use the money for dual RX360 kits, and GPU water blocks.









Sounds like you have your priorities in order. I salute you.


well if I sold him his mum would probably do me so much harm that I'd not be able to get to the pc, and selling her is not an option as no 1 else i silly enough to take her.

First time I ever got my priorities right must be getting old









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Yup, time to put away those big boy toys for the next few years.

I'll take that useless and wasteful HAF X and 6870 off your hands now, please and thank you.










If I gave you my haf x and 6870 he wouldn't be able to watch all day cbeebies (uk kids thing) while his dinners cooking, plus it would cost a bomb to send to Canada.


----------



## gl0ry

So I've been letting my rasa 750 run for the past few hours now, when I first turned it on it was dead silent, now it's starting to make an annoying buzzing noise. Do I need to RMA this already or is this normal?

Edit: I noticed my silver kill coil was getting stuck under the pump, so I think that made the pump more noisy. I took the coil out and made it even wider, I still get a little buzzing, but maybe that's normal?

I'll take a video of it and let you guys decide.


----------



## gl0ry

You Tube


----------



## Elmateo487

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


So I've been letting my rasa 750 run for the past few hours now, when I first turned it on it was dead silent, now it's starting to make an annoying buzzing noise. Do I need to RMA this already or is this normal?

Edit: I noticed my silver kill coil was getting stuck under the pump, so I think that made the pump more noisy. I took the coil out and made it even wider, I still get a little buzzing, but maybe that's normal?

I'll take a video of it and let you guys decide.


A tiny TINY bit of buzzing is normal. Generally they are very quite pumps, can't look at your video so I cant say for sure. But gurgling and buzzing is normal for a while, with the buzzing sustaining.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Elmateo487*


A tiny TINY bit of buzzing is normal. Generally they are very quite pumps, can't look at your video so I cant say for sure. But gurgling and buzzing is normal for a while, with the buzzing sustaining.


Thanks for the reply, wish you could watch my video to confirm. Hopefully someone else here can soon.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

after looking again........ there has to be a few air pockets in the rad, the flow coming out of the rad is almost like a trickle.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*


after looking again........ there has to be a few air pockets in the rad, the flow coming out of the rad is almost like a trickle.


Yes you were indeed correct. I did what you said and most of the bubbles instantaneously went through the radiator out back into the res.

However, the same sound is still there, I don't think it changed much if anything.

I have my Res at the highest point now just for testing purposes.

Edit: I started shaking the radiator vigorously and got a couple more air bubbles out, the buzzing is almost completely gone now. It's more like a silent hum now.

I had to restart the unit a couple of times for that to take care of itself.

Hopefully it will remain this way! I'll take another video with the after effects


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


Yes you were indeed correct. I did what you said and most of the bubbles instantaneously went through the radiator out back into the res.

However, the same sound is still there, I don't think it changed much if anything.

I have my Res at the highest point now just for testing purposes.


let it run for a bit, try cycling the power on and off and while off kinda wiggle and shake the rad.
there can't be any air pockets in the rad..... and even the smallest of air bubbles that are in the tubing can cause the pump to make a little noise.


----------



## gl0ry

The buzzing is still there, but it goes away at times now, so I still need to work it out, but I'm glad to see that it might just be an issue of my ignorance here.

  
 You Tube


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


The buzzing is still there, but it goes away at times now, so I still need to work it out, but I'm glad to see that it might just be an issue of my ignorance here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89qF7...layer_embedded


My original RASA kit pump sounds exactly the same. Never had any issues with it and its about 5 months old running CPU and two GPUs on a RX360 loop.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


My original RASA kit pump sounds exactly the same. Never had any issues with it and its about 5 months old running CPU and two GPUs on a RX360 loop.


So this is just the normal noise of the system? This is my first water cooling solution so I had nothing to compare it to. I did notice that if I had my radiator standing up (barbs on bottom) the buzzing noise was much less frequent, but i don't think that will be an option I want in my new case.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


So this is just the normal noise of the system? This is my first water cooling solution so I had nothing to compare it to. I did notice that if I had my radiator standing up (barbs on bottom) the buzzing noise was much less frequent, but i don't think that will be an option I want in my new case.


Some are quieter, but this appears to be the noisier side of these pumps. I wouldn't worry about it, unless it gets louder. Later on, if you really want a good pump, I would move to a DDC pump and XSPC reservoir. You can get a DDC pump here on OCN for $35 shipped. But in the mean time, just use the stock pump.


----------



## N3Xus

I would like to buy one of these. Would a RS240+RS120 loop perform identical or better than one with a RX240? I ask this because sadly my Sniper is too short for the RX240 to fit comfortably. I knew I should have bought the 932...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N3Xus*


I would like to buy one of these. Would a RS240+RS120 loop perform identical or better than one with a RX240? I ask this because sadly my Sniper is too short for the RX240 to fit comfortably. I knew I should have bought the 932...










Maybe, I'm not sure, since I've never used the RS rads. Keep in mind, with the RS rads, they have more FPI, so you need mid to high speed fans to get the air flowing through them. I suggest using GT AP-15 fans at full speed for best cooling over stock fans in the kit.


----------



## N3Xus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Maybe, I'm not sure, since I've never used the RS rads. Keep in mind, with the RS rads, they have more FPI, so you need mid to high speed fans to get the air flowing through them. I suggest using GT AP-15 fans at full speed for best cooling over stock fans in the kit.


I have some 2200RPM Yate high speeds I'm going to use.


----------



## gl0ry

i dont like this noise, if i cant get it to go away i'm going to call frozen cpu to see what course of action I can take.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


i dont like this noise, if i cant get it to go away i'm going to call frozen cpu to see what course of action I can take.


They're going to refer you to XSPC for sure. They won't handle anything on that pump IMO.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


They're going to refer you to XSPC for sure. They won't handle anything on that pump IMO.


They won't replace it if it's noisy?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


They won't replace it if it's noisy?


AFAIK, no. It's always been direct to XSPC. They will most likely request a video of the pump noise. They don't accept YouTube videos I heard.


----------



## robert125381

anyone here that is looking to sell their kit, I am looking to buy







pm me.


----------



## broke

just got mine in the mail today








cant install until my other order of tubing and compression fittings and silver arrive though







but looking forward to getting into it


----------



## robert125381

Quote:



Originally Posted by *broke*


just got mine in the mail today








cant install until my other order of tubing and compression fittings and silver arrive though







but looking forward to getting into it


me jealous...


----------



## gl0ry

You Tube  



 
Did a single loop so any air bubbles was out of the question. I think this is a defective pump...

If it isn't defective, then this noise is far too loud for me.

Gonna call Frozen CPU first thing tomorrow. The store is only about 3 hours away from me, so hopefully they'll let me just send it back to them for a quick replacement.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yweBal28Jgs

Did a single loop so any air bubbles was out of the question. I think this is a defective pump...

If it isn't defective, then this noise is far too loud for me.


Wow, that is noisy. I'd say something's up, mine is dead quiet.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Wow, that is noisy. I'd say something's up, mine is dead quiet.


Yeah, lately in general I feel as if I've had bad luck with computer parts, everything seems to be defective... I'm gonna cross my fingers and hope that everything else I ordered is perfectly fine.


----------



## bdpakaknox

My pump isnt exactly silent, i can hear it when my fans are all the way down, but its no where near that load.


----------



## Brutos

Can any one recommend some external mounts for the RAD for the Rasa 750 RS360 Kit ..i want to mount it outside.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brutos*


Can any one recommend some external mounts for the RAD for the Rasa 750 RS360 Kit ..i want to mount it outside.


Koolance makes a mounting bracket. Doesn't your kit have 4 leg brackets to do this?


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14145862*
> Koolance makes a mounting bracket. Doesn't your kit have 4 leg brackets to do this?


My kit did, the 750 RX240. and ill be honest, i have no clue how to mount the brackets on the back and then onto my case.
Normally i would be able to work out a way but this time i had noooo clue. There are no instructions and i personalty couldn't find pictures to even guide me Lol,
I fail at 4 simple mounting brackets that came with the kit


----------



## GuitsBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;14146930*
> My kit did, the 750 RX240. and ill be honest, i have no clue how to mount the brackets on the back and then onto my case.
> Normally i would be able to work out a way but this time i had noooo clue. There are no instructions and i personalty couldn't find pictures to even guide me Lol,
> I fail at 4 simple mounting brackets that came with the kit


Does your case have a rear exhaust fan? If so, you attach the brackets to the case where the exhaust fan goes, and attach to the rad on the top half. A GIS turned up this helpful image: http://www.overclock.net/attachments/water-cooling/175976d1286747830-xspc-rasa-750-rs240-results-img_0959.jpg


----------



## gl0ry

FrozenCPU asked me to contact XSPC... Guess I'll have to just deal with it until they reply.

Edit: Read more older posts in this thread that seems to indicate many people have had the same annoying noises I have, but they eventually went away, so we'll see.

Another edit: I installed it in my new case and I can't hear it as much when the fans on, so maybe I was just getting worked up over the volume of it on its own. Maybe that's just the normal sound.


----------



## rdimaggio11

ok got a question to ask i am new at this so here it goes. 
i am bulding a new pc using the 
antech 902 case does it work with the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit ?? , and what can i do about the rad , where i can i put it at?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


ok got a question to ask i am new at this so here it goes. 
i am bulding a new pc using the 
antech 902 case does it work with the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit ?? , and what can i do about the rad , where i can i put it at?


I think most antec 900 guys put the rad in the back outside of the case, but I could be wrong. I had an antec900 but moved to a new case as well when I got the water kit.


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuitsBoy*


Does your case have a rear exhaust fan? If so, you attach the brackets to the case where the exhaust fan goes, and attach to the rad on the top half. A GIS turned up this helpful image: http://www.overclock.net/attachments...s-img_0959.jpg


Tried that, it seems no matter what i did the brackets felt lose and moved all over the place and the screws didn't hold in place (i have scratches on th back of my rad where it was sitting)


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


I think most antec 900 guys put the rad in the back outside of the case, but I could be wrong. I had an antec900 but moved to a new case as well when I got the water kit.


 so your sayin can it either go on the top inside of the case and get rid of the 220mm fan that is there and still use the rad on top of it?


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


FrozenCPU asked me to contact XSPC... Guess I'll have to just deal with it until they reply.

Edit: Read more older posts in this thread that seems to indicate many people have had the same annoying noises I have, but they eventually went away, so we'll see.

Another edit: I installed it in my new case and I can't hear it as much when the fans on, so maybe I was just getting worked up over the volume of it on its own. Maybe that's just the normal sound.


 or you could just drill and tap the holes where you what to put the rad at!


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


so your sayin can it either go on the top inside of the case and get rid of the 220mm fan that is there and still use the rad on top of it?


I don't know. You can do almost anything you want with an antec 900 as long as you mod it. I got sick of that case because everything required modding, it wasn't that great out of the box.


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


I don't know. You can do almost anything you want with an antec 900 as long as you mod it. I got sick of that case because everything required modding, it wasn't that great out of the box.


 sounds like the 902 is bigger ?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


sounds like the 902 is bigger ?


It looks exactly like an Antec 900 with black interior and an extra hole near the PSU for better cable management.

I thought I really liked Antec cases until I just got my Corsair 600t. Plain and simple.

But this is no longer about water cooling so to get back on topic, most people mount their rads on the outside of the case.

http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost...4&postcount=11

There's a good example with a 902.


----------



## rdimaggio11

yah with the corsair case do you have room for every part that you attend to put in there ?
so what are we talking about in this topic ?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


yah with the corsair case do you have room for every part that you attend to put in there ?
so what are we talking about in this topic ?


yes, i have the 240mm radiator mounted on the top with double fans pulling. Haven't tried it yet because I'm leak testing atm, just put everything together.


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


yes, i have the 240mm radiator mounted on the top with double fans pulling. Haven't tried it yet because I'm leak testing atm, just put everything together.


 ok sounds good , for the build i am goin to do is a new computer but i have no parts yet , wating on the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit. so far thats the olny part that i have got .


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11;14155181*
> ok sounds good , for the build i am goin to do is a new computer but i have no parts yet , wating on the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit. so far thats the olny part that i have got .


lol, i am in the same boat.
been modding a CM Scout (not an HTPC, in sig), and just ordered my RS240 kit yesterday.
i do have the fans and fan controller already, but thats all so far.
i am waiting for BD release before i make my desicion on what CPU/MB i am putting in it, so i have time to get the rest of the stuff together-wait for some good deals.

-dimwit-

once i get my kit and a little farther along on the case, i am going to join the club.


----------



## shumwayinspace

hey guys. i won this kit in an esport competition but already got the 240 in my pc. if someone is interested pls contact me.


----------



## Afromee

Hey everyone, thought i'd share some information.

I installed my water cooling system as I would think most first timers do, with allot of excitement. And with this excitement I totally skipped over properly reading the CPU manual, just partly looking at it as I installed my CPU block.

Now after 4 weeks of running the system, I thought I'd go and have a look at all the manuals I received. Seems I did miss something, when I installed the CPU block I wondered why there were 2 nuts on the screws, thinking the second was just a kind of buffer to make the spring tighter, never thinking you can actually tighten it more after you fastened the first nut, as most of you probably know, the second nut is so you can tighten all four ends to the same strength. This I only just figured out =), and as it seems this improved my temps by as much as 3c.

So for all you excited first timers, try not to rush it =). Hope this helps someone who made the same mistake. In any case, kit working wonderfully. i7 920 D0 @ 4.2 ghz with only 1.25v vcore.


----------



## Annex

I'm finally leak testing my new setup.. Had a fitting that sprung a leak and had to replace it which caused a 3 day delay (USPS is awesome).. Just trying to get as many bubbles out the system and hoping to god that I don't get another leak during testing..

Kinda nervous about booting up tho.. Gonna be pissed if the heat causes any ram/mosfet heatsinks to fall off the GPU (or if I got a crappy mount on the gpu's).


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13;14156375*
> lol, i am in the same boat.
> been modding a CM Scout (not an HTPC, in sig), and just ordered my RS240 kit yesterday.
> i do have the fans and fan controller already, but thats all so far.
> i am waiting for BD release before i make my desicion on what CPU/MB i am putting in it, so i have time to get the rest of the stuff together-wait for some good deals.
> 
> -dimwit-
> 
> once i get my kit and a little farther along on the case, i am going to join the club.


what hdd are you going with ? and are you going ide or sata ?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


what hdd are you going with ? and are you going ide or sata ?


my plan, as of now is.
64gig ssd-boot/os
300gig raptor-games
2tb green internal storage
any extra storage will be external drives
sata of course.

-dimwit-


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dimwit13*


my plan, as of now is.
64gig ssd-boot/os
300gig raptor-games
2tb green internal storage
any extra storage will be external drives
sata of course.

-dimwit-


 soulds like you know what you are goin with , and goin with the h20 system? , what about a blu ray drive ? dvd?


----------



## broke

hey guys, just a quick question. ive got an RX240 kit that ive flushed the rad with already. but id love to leak test, but i dont have silver coil yet (en route from the USA) could i leak test it for a few days while the silver gets here? or is even a couple of days without silver bad?


----------



## rdimaggio11

broke said:


> hey guys, just a quick question. ive got an RX240 kit that ive flushed the rad with already. but id love to leak test, but i dont have silver coil yet (en route from the USA) could i leak test it for a few days while the silver gets here? or is even a couple of days without silver bad?[/QUOT)
> what i would do is just set it up like is it and run it with out the silver coil till it comes , run it for 2-3 days till no leaks with your tubing....


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *broke*


hey guys, just a quick question. ive got an RX240 kit that ive flushed the rad with already. but id love to leak test, but i dont have silver coil yet (en route from the USA) could i leak test it for a few days while the silver gets here? or is even a couple of days without silver bad?


You should be fine until the kill coil gets there, just don't keep it like that for too long.


----------



## exzited

does this come with amd mounting? op says it doesnt but site says it does?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/re...HOT-Page1.html


----------



## bdpakaknox

Yes that kit does come with an AMD mount option.


----------



## gl0ry

I contacted XSPC and they said they'd send me a new res/pump. Customer service seems fast and responsive. I'll let you know when I get a new one ine.

I've set up my new system and have started overclock testing already. The temps seem pretty good so far, although I can't compare them to air since this is my first sandy bridge.

Do you guys think I will get better performance using pull or push method on the radiator? I have it mounted on top of my corsair 600t using push at the moment. Don't have enough room in the case to do push/pull, it's one or the other.


----------



## bdpakaknox

Pushing through the rad would be ideal.


----------



## exzited

which compression fittings should i be getting?

there are so many different sizes that are 1/2 barbed

the 240 kit comes with 7/16 tubing but eventually should i go with 1/2 tubing? since it will be a tighter fit?

so confused right now

which barbs?

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/...mpression.html


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


which compression fittings should i be getting?

there are so many different sizes that are 1/2 barbed

the 240 kit comes with 7/16 tubing but eventually should i go with 1/2 tubing? since it will be a tighter fit?

so confused right now

which barbs?

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/...mpression.html


I don't know which compressions to get, they're too expensive so I don't have them.









If you are getting compression fittings you have to use the same sized tubing as the fitting. So no 7/16 for 1/2in compression fittings. Barbs and compression fittings are two different things.


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I don't know which compressions to get, they're too expensive so I don't have them.









If you are getting compression fittings you have to use the same sized tubing as the fitting. So no 7/16 for 1/2in compression fittings. Barbs and compression fittings are two different things.


1/2 tubing will fit on the 1/2 barbs that come with the kit right


----------



## robert125381

Quote:



Originally Posted by *robert125381*


anyone here that is looking to sell their kit, I am looking to buy







pm me.


bump


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


1/2 tubing will fit on the 1/2 barbs that come with the kit right


I guess, but if you are going to use the tubing that comes with the kit you might as well grind large scratches into the compression fittings and paint them atrocious colors with spray paint. The tubing that comes with the kit looks horrible after a few months, here's a picture for you. (not my case btw)


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I guess, but if you are going to use the tubing that comes with the kit you might as well grind large scratches into the compression fittings and paint them atrocious colors with spray paint. The tubing that comes with the kit looks horrible after a few months, here's a picture for you. (not my case btw)


*This is my tubing after 3 weeks*










*Ive moved up since then







*


----------



## broke

ive got it leak testing now. i must admit i went ahead a bought compression fittings but the barbs that come with the kit are very nice. didnt use any thread tape or anything to enhance the seal. its just a basic loop Pump/res > rad > pump/res. its my very first play with a water set up so it was a bit exciting lol. i really just wanted to have a play with it all before i got my nice tubing and comp fittings.


----------



## exzited

what do i need to do if i want to run compression fittings on my cpu and run stock barbs tha come with the kit on everything else


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


what do i need to do if i want to run compression fittings on my cpu and run stock barbs tha come with the kit on everything else


Put the fittings on your cpu and stock barbs on the rest.


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Put the fittings on your cpu and stock barbs on the rest.



whats size commrepssion and tubing?


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


what do i need to do if i want to run compression fittings on my cpu and run stock barbs tha come with the kit on everything else



Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


whats size commrepssion and tubing?


1/2 ID 5/8 OD fittings and tubing is all you need.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *broke*


ive got it leak testing now. *i must admit i went ahead a bought compression fittings* but the barbs that come with the kit are very nice. didnt use any thread tape or anything to enhance the seal. its just a basic loop Pump/res > rad > pump/res. its my very first play with a water set up so it was a bit exciting lol. i really just wanted to have a play with it all before i got my nice tubing and comp fittings.


lol, same here. I bought some compression fittings from a member 2 days after building the kit, kinda a waste of the current barbs.


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


1/2 ID 5/8 OD fittings and tubing is all you need.

lol, same here. I bought some compression fittings from a member 2 days after building the kit, kinda a waste of the current barbs.


cool with 1/2 tubing or 7/16?


----------



## N3Xus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


cool with 1/2 tubing or 7/16?


Compressions need tubing the same exact size. So if you want 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing you need 1/2 ID 3/4 OD compression fittings.


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N3Xus*


Compressions need tubing the same exact size. So if you want 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing you need 1/2 ID 3/4 OD compression fittings.


so if i want to use it with the stock barbs i need to use 7/16 compress fittings?

is it better to use 1/2 or 7/16 tubing on the stock barbs?


----------



## N3Xus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


so if i want to use it with the stock barbs i need to use 7/16 compress fittings?


Yes, 7/16 ID 5/8 OD compression fittings.


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I guess, but if you are going to use the tubing that comes with the kit you might as well grind large scratches into the compression fittings and paint them atrocious colors with spray paint. The tubing that comes with the kit looks horrible after a few months, here's a picture for you. (not my case btw)











holy crap thats bad lookin , should i use my stock tubing or go better ?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


holy crap thats bad lookin , should i use my stock tubing or go better ?










Why are you asking me? If you like tubing that looks like that then stick with it, if you don't want your tubing to look like that go with PrimoChill or Tygon.


----------



## gl0ry

Hey guys, With my rasa 750/240 kit I'm getting around 70C at 1.41v running prime.

Is that a normal temperature? With my corsair shroud on the fans it's gotten as high as 77c.

I have the radiator mounted on the top of the case with the fans pushing fresh air into the radiator/case. Just FYI I resat the cpu block and redid the pk-1 thermal paste.

Seems a little high to me, but I'm new to water cooling, I don't have anything to compare it to. On my q9550 my xigmatek HSF kept my cpu very cool.

Edit: By the way, does it matter what direction the block is placed? Mine is horizontal with the in on the left and out on the right. The instructions don't specify if it matters, but it shows it in a vertical manner.


----------



## PCBung

Dunno if this helps but my rx360 on my 2500k gave the following temps:

1.35v - 4.6ghz - 63c
1.3v - 4.4ghz - 53c

I have 2x 120mm fans pushing and 2x200mm fans pulling, rad is mounted on top of the case. I found with the rx360 adding an extra fan made no difference to temps for me, but my fans are only running at about 600-800rpm, need to buy some gentle typhoons and a fan controller







.

I am also running the stock TIM which I found very hard to spread and heard it isn't the best.

I have my block mounted horizonally, shouldnt matter which way.

Make sure you have no air in the system... I put my case on its side 2 days ago and a huge air bubble came out filling a whole tube!!

Regards
Steve

Regards
Steve


----------



## gl0ry

Thanks for the reply. If you pushed up to 1.41v with HT (2600k) then your temps would be right up there too I would imagine.


----------



## PCBung

I would guess so... Give me a few mins and i will give it a whirl!

Then stock intel hsf gave me around 70c load at 3.7ghz 1.2v


----------



## gl0ry

I was hoping around this volts I would still get around 65c max load, but maybe that's wishful thinking.


----------



## PCBung

Whats your ambiant temprature? As when I did yesterdays test it was quiet warm, atm with 1.4v my highest is 59c lowest core is 53c but its alot cooler in my room today.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


Whats your ambiant temprature? As when I did yesterdays test it was quiet warm, atm with 1.4v my highest is 59c lowest core is 53c but its alot cooler in my room today.


It's not that hot here. I live in Upstate NY. I thought ambient temps didn't matter as much with water.


----------



## mm67

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


It's not that hot here. I live in Upstate NY. I thought ambient temps didn't matter as much with water.


Water in loop will warm up together with you room so your cpu's temperature is directly connected to ambient temperature.


----------



## PCBung

After 30 mins prime95 I have the following temps at 1.4v

60c,63c,63c,58c

These are cooler than at 1.35v yesterday, and the only difference being that the ambient temp is cooler.

Regards
Steve


----------



## gl0ry

Thanks. How do you run your loop order? Maybe I will reconfigure it.

I do pump->cpu block-> radiator -> res.

But I heard pump -> radiator-> cpu block -> res. might be better... I'm not sure.


----------



## PCBung

I got it as Pump > Rad > Block > Res. Do you have the RS or RX240?

EDIT: Also you say you have your fans blowing air from outside the case to the rad... swap this around so dumping the air out.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


I got it as Pump > Rad > Block > Res. Do you have the RS or RX240?


I have the RS240, so my temps are gonna be higher, but not by that much is it? Actually, you are on a 2500k, with HT on the temps jump up about 7-8c higher if I recall.


----------



## PCBung

Change your loop to what I have then put your fans in either push or pull config (both if you can) like the image here: http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/2716/pcairflow.png (not my system)


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


Change your loop to what I have then put your fans in either push or pull config (both if you can) like the image here: http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/2716/pcairflow.png (not my system)


I can't do that because there isn't enough room in my case for it. I'm using push right now. I will try pull tomorrow and also maybe redoing the loop. Thanks!


----------



## PCBung

Just make sure you are pulling/pushing the air to the outside of the case not in (just your first post indicated you had air blowing into your case from the rad)

Regards
Steve


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I guess, but if you are going to use the tubing that comes with the kit you might as well grind large scratches into the compression fittings and paint them atrocious colors with spray paint. The tubing that comes with the kit looks horrible after a few months, here's a picture for you. (not my case btw)


You think that's bad, Here is what mine ended up looking like.
I thought i had Bacterial growth in my loop..










*FIRST INSTALL*









Full Thread


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;14165879*
> You think that's bad, Here is what mine ended up looking like.
> I thought i had Bacterial growth in my loop..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *FIRST INSTALL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Thread


what tubing did you use ?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBung;14165663*
> After 30 mins prime95 I have the following temps at 1.4v
> 
> 60c,63c,63c,58c
> 
> These are cooler than at 1.35v yesterday, and the only difference being that the ambient temp is cooler.
> 
> Regards
> Steve


Wait what? That's terrible for an RX360.
What overclock? Because my TRUE120 basically gets those temps too.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry;14165670*
> Thanks. How do you run your loop order? Maybe I will reconfigure it.
> 
> I do pump->cpu block-> radiator -> res.
> 
> But I heard pump -> radiator-> cpu block -> res. might be better... I'm not sure.


as long as you go RES>pump it doewn't matter if you go block>rad or rad>block the water temp evens it's self out after a while of running

you have a RS240 PCBung has RX360 and lives in uk so his ambient is probably lower then yours


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBung;14165480*
> Dunno if this helps but my rx360 on my 2500k gave the following temps:
> 
> 1.35v - 4.6ghz - 63c
> 1.3v - 4.4ghz - 53c
> 
> I have 2x 120mm fans pushing and 2x200mm fans pulling, rad is mounted on top of the case. I found with the rx360 adding an extra fan made no difference to temps for me, but my fans are only running at about 600-800rpm, need to buy some gentle typhoons and a fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I am also running the stock TIM which I found very hard to spread and heard it isn't the best.
> 
> I have my block mounted horizonally, shouldnt matter which way.
> 
> Make sure you have no air in the system... I put my case on its side 2 days ago and a huge air bubble came out filling a whole tube!!
> 
> Regards
> Steve


Get some different tim!


----------



## PCBung

I'm going to order some of that indigo xtreme, looks easy to apply and has great reviews. Im sure when I have got a good TIM and it correctly applied ill drop a few c.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBung;14169030*
> I'm going to order some of that indigo xtreme, looks easy to apply and has great reviews. Im sure when I have got a good TIM and it correctly applied ill drop a few c.


You will most likely drop 5-10c with better TIM


----------



## gl0ry

Kind of embarassed, but while redoing my loop I realized I never tightened the nuts on t he mounting screws, so my water block didn't have as much pressure on the CPU as it should have....

Hope my temps are good now.

Edit: I'm getting mid 60's now with my two fans as exhaust (pull). Not sure if push or pull is better, but man, much improved temps! And this is at a higher voltage now (1.42).


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry;14170168*
> Kind of embarassed, but while redoing my loop I realized I never tightened the nuts on t he mounting screws, so my water block didn't have as much pressure on the CPU as it should have....
> 
> Hope my temps are good now.


did you over check that to see if you had any leaks ? , with that did you just use the unit it self to leak test it or just the tubing and the res/pump?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


did you over check that to see if you had any leaks ? , with that did you just use the unit it self to leak test it or just the tubing and the res/pump?


No. I just reassembled it, test ran it outside the system (to get rid of air bubbles) and put it back in the system. There were no leaks during that short test and I'm very confident at this point. 7/16" tubing with the plastic compression clips... I also double checked the barbs with my wrench.

Anyways, 7/16 tubing fits so tight on top of the plastic compression clips, I'm not that scared.


----------



## jetboy623

Hey Guys. I'm going to purchase the Rasa 750 RS360 very soon. I'm planning on setting up a push-pull configuration, and was wondering if there are 3-pin power ports on the rad available for 6 fans. I was also wondering simply where the fans plug into on the rad. In other words, do I need to buy a 3-pin splitter for my six fans?

Thanks in advance guys!


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


No. I just reassembled it, test ran it outside the system (to get rid of air bubbles) and put it back in the system. There were no leaks during that short test and I'm very confident at this point. 7/16" tubing with the plastic compression clips... I also double checked the barbs with my wrench.

Anyways, 7/16 tubing fits so tight on top of the plastic compression clips, I'm not that scared.


did you use the claps that came with the kit ?


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


Hey Guys. I'm going to purchase the Rasa 750 RS360 very soon. I'm planning on setting up a push-pull configuration, and was wondering if there are 3-pin power ports on the rad available for 6 fans. I was also wondering simply where the fans plug into on the rad. In other words, do I need to buy a 3-pin splitter for my six fans?

Thanks in advance guys!


does it have a 4 pin to 3 pin adapter ? 
, or you could just rig it up some how?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14170313*
> Hey Guys. I'm going to purchase the Rasa 750 RS360 very soon. I'm planning on setting up a push-pull configuration, and was wondering if there are 3-pin power ports on the rad available for 6 fans. I was also wondering simply where the fans plug into on the rad. In other words, do I need to buy a 3-pin splitter for my six fans?
> 
> Thanks in advance guys!


the fans don't plug into the rad


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


the fans don't plug into the rad


Okay... thennn where do they plug into?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


Okay... thennn where do they plug into?










depending on fans your motherboard ,psu molex or fan controller


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


depending on fans your motherboard ,psu molex or fan controller


How would I plug it into my mobo if the rad+fans are mounted on the back of my case (exterior). In other words, where would the fan cables enter the case?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


How would I plug it into my mobo if the rad+fans are mounted on the back of my case (exterior). In other words, where would the fan cables enter the case?


not knowing the layout of your case my suggestion would be drill a hole in the back + extend the fan cable if needed

Edit: just saw your other post you could remove 1 of the pci covers


----------



## kiwiasian

Does anyone know if I can use a 120mm rad stand on an RX120 so that the radiator stands vertically
(so that the G1/4" ports are both on top)


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14170776*
> not knowing the layout of your case my suggestion would be drill a hole in the back + extend the fan cable if needed


Okay. Does everybody who has this kit have to do this???







It wouldn't seem... Convenient (for a lack of better words) for everyone who mounts this rad on the back of this case to drill a hole.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


Okay. Does everybody who has this kit have to do this???







It wouldn't seem... Convenient (for a lack of better words) for everyone who mounts this rad on the back of this case to drill a hole.


I'm sure most people (that mount outside) are able to figure something out. A lot of people mount their radiators inside their cases.


----------



## rdimaggio11

the antec 902 case is hard to find out , but takin the 200mm fan off should do it ?


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I'm sure most people (that mount outside) are able to figure something out. A lot of people mount their radiators inside their cases.


Yeah, I know a lot of people mount inside, but a 360mm rad has no chance of fitting in my 922







.

Quote:



Edit: just saw your other post you could remove 1 of the pci covers


That's what I thought earlier, but I would need some pretty long extensions for that.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Hey guys,

I purchased a RASA 750 kit about 2 months ago and have had absolutely no issues with it since installation. Since then I added a waterblock for my 6990 to the loop and again, everything has been whisper quite and running well.

My question is.... I am about to get a waterblock for my 6970 (tri-fire) and add a black ice 240 to my loop as well.

I would like to (only for the interim) run all of this from the standard 750 pump.

Will it do the job for a month or so? Has anyone loaded one of these pumps up with 3 blocks and 2 rads?

Am I stupid for even considering it? haha


----------



## rdimaggio11

you may have to add an other pump to it how does it do with just one?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac;14172269*
> Hey guys,
> 
> I purchased a RASA 750 kit about 2 months ago and have had absolutely no issues with it since installation. Since then I added a waterblock for my 6990 to the loop and again, everything has been whisper quite and running well.
> 
> My question is.... I am about to get a waterblock for my 6970 (tri-fire) and add a black ice 240 to my loop as well.
> 
> I would like to (only for the interim) run all of this from the standard 750 pump.
> 
> Will it do the job for a month or so? Has anyone loaded one of these pumps up with 3 blocks and 2 rads?
> 
> Am I stupid for even considering it? haha


I only did CPU and two GPU on one RX360 rad. I would get a DDC or D5 pump and XSPC reservoir if I were you. Not worth risking have a pump fail and overheat your loop.


----------



## skyn3t

hey guys i was thinking to put my GTX 570 under water and i really don't know what to buy, but the thing is i just want to add my VGA in a single loop. because i already have the H50 doing the work for me, if you guys can guide me in the right direction I'll be very happy.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14172464*
> I only did CPU and two GPU on one RX360 rad. I would get a DDC or D5 pump and XSPC reservoir if I were you. Not worth risking have a pump fail and overheat your loop.


so you ran your 2 6990's and your cpu off the single rx360?

what were temps like mate?


----------



## Armegadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;14172732*
> hey guys i was thinking to put my GTX 570 under water and i really don't know what to buy, but the thing is i just want to add my VGA in a single loop. because i already have the H50 doing the work for me, if you guys can guide me in the right direction I'll be very happy.


Well if you dont plan on cooling your cpu, then i wouldn't get a rasa kit, i would say buy the parts individually for sure. If you buy a kit, you'll be sitting with a cpu block with no use.


----------



## gl0ry

sick of having high temps I took everything apart and promised myself I'm going to do the best job I can, and if I still get high temps I give up...

I redid some parts of my loop that had a 90 degree bend and I completely redid the tim on my cpu/block again. Using push method on the radiator.

Now I'm getting 57-65c compared to 70-77c. No guarantee the temps won't creep back up to that level later on, but I'm hoping they will stay this way, because I won't be happy with 70c+


----------



## DEEBS808

About to click the order button.It is either rasa RS360 or H100.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14171852*
> That's what I thought earlier, but I would need some pretty long extensions for that.


All I did to allow the cables into the case was to dremel out an oval shaped hole in a PCI cover on the back of the case, installed a rubber grommet (1/2" ID round found at local hardware store) which than allows 3 cables placed through it one at a time and also allows room for the connector of the last cable to also have room to pass through the grommet after you have the first two cables going through it.

If you take the time to sleeve the fan cables it finishes off very nice and clean. In side the case if you need extensions give these a try http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g2/c251/s637/list/p1/Cables-Fan_Cables-Fan_Cable_Extensions-Page1.html (they also sell sleeving)


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14174052*
> About to click the order button.It is either rasa RS360 or H100.


You should wait and see how the h100 does before getting it, But im sure the rs360 will kill it


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry;14173204*
> sick of having high temps I took everything apart and promised myself I'm going to do the best job I can, and if I still get high temps I give up...
> 
> I redid some parts of my loop that had a 90 degree bend and I completely redid the tim on my cpu/block again. Using push method on the radiator.
> 
> Now I'm getting 57-65c compared to 70-77c. No guarantee the temps won't creep back up to that level later on, but I'm hoping they will stay this way, because I won't be happy with 70c+


so this only works for you ?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


so this only works for you ?


It helped a little, but my temps are still around 65-70c. Not as low as I was hoping.


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


It helped a little, but my temps are still around 65-70c. Not as low as I was hoping.


have you tried to change the fans for differnt ones ?
and what when the room temp is cold or hot?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


have you tried to change the fans for differnt ones ?
and what when the room temp is cold or hot?


Room temp is probably around 69 F.

I haven't tried to change the fans yet, I plan on it soon.


----------



## DEEBS808

Just ordered me a RS360


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


what tubing did you use ?


What it came with...


----------



## Brutos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14145862*
> Koolance makes a mounting bracket. Doesn't your kit have 4 leg brackets to do this?


thanks will look into it


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14175210*
> Just ordered me a RS360


Nice, did you get any additional rads or are you just only cooling the CPU? Do post picks when you get it.


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14178822*
> Nice, did you get any additional rads or are you just only cooling the CPU? Do post picks when you get it.


Just got the kit for now.See how I like it then up grade when I want to.Also going to order some new tubes.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


Yeah, I know a lot of people mount inside, but a 360mm rad has no chance of fitting in my 922







.

That's what I thought earlier, but I would need some pretty long extensions for that.


Jetboy, have you seen my previous posts? I have a HAF 922 with an RX360 mounted externally with 6 fans in push pull. All run into the back of my case to molex connectors off my PSU. In fact I also run the tubes (1/2") behind the MB tray as well with no issues (looks much nicer). Check out these pics


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


Room temp is probably around 69 F.

I haven't tried to change the fans yet, I plan on it soon.


 that may help.

have not got my kit yet comes wed some time durring the day but will get it


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


that may help.

have not got my kit yet comes wed some time durring the day but will get it


Mine also comes one wed well I hope it does lol.Cant wait to bad I still need more parts for my build.Hope you enjoy yours.


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DEEBS808*


Mine also comes one wed well I hope it does lol.Cant wait to bad I still need more parts for my build.Hope you enjoy yours.


 yah true , hope it will come later in the day , thats how fedex is!


----------



## Agenesis

I mounted my block vertically and yielded a 6c decrease over the previous 2 mounts.


----------



## rdimaggio11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


I mounted my block vertically and yielded a 6c decrease over the previous 2 mounts.


 does it work anybetter , with anydiffernt way ?


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rdimaggio11*


does it work anybetter , with anydiffernt way ?


Unless I did something horribly wrong while mounting the block last two times that I wasn't aware of, there isn't much difference in terms of how it was setup.

This time I used 1/2 3/4 compression fittings/tubing and mounted the block vertically, at first there was an immense amount of air bubbles, but it has gone away several hours later.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


I mounted my block vertically and yielded a 6c decrease over the previous 2 mounts.


Interesting. Probably a matter of water flow. I noticed when I tried vertical during bleeding it seemed to flow better too.

Don't know if I'll be doing vertical mounting, but who knows. I like the rad in my case, but I may opt to go outside if I want better temps


----------



## SadistBlinx

Think the X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir will be enough for a RS240 and a RX240 Rad? or will it struggle?
Atm i have a RX 240 i'm going to mount onto the back of the case and i have a RS120, Was thinking of changing out the RS120 and adding a RS240 to work with the RX240.

Also is all of the PrimoChill branded tubing made without plasticize? I don't want a relapse of what happened previously (massive tubing discoloration and breakdown, the tubing the kit came with)

I was considering getting

* Masterkleer PVC Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD (Clear)*

*Or*

*PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing (UV Blue 7/16" 5/8" 3/32")*

Website i use to get my tubing is GAMMODS (Australian)

I was going to buy The Swiftech MCB-120 Rev2 Radbox  For mounting the RX240 onto the back of my case.


----------



## PCBung

Should be fine, the same pump powers the RX480 and your setup will be 1 step down from that.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;14185812*
> Think the X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir will be enough for a RS240 and a RX240 Rad? or will it struggle?
> Atm i have a RX 240 i'm going to mount onto the back of the case and i have a RS120, Was thinking of changing out the RS120 and adding a RS240 to work with the RX240.
> 
> Also is all of the PrimoChill branded tubing made without plasticize? I don't want a relapse of what happened previously (massive tubing discoloration and breakdown, the tubing the kit came with)
> 
> I was considering getting
> 
> *Masterkleer PVC Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD (Clear)*
> 
> *Or*
> 
> *PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing (UV Blue 7/16" 5/8" 3/32")*
> 
> Website i use to get my tubing is GAMMODS (Australian)
> 
> I was going to buy The Swiftech MCB-120 Rev2 Radbox For mounting the RX240 onto the back of my case.


PrimoFlex... It has some but it seems to be to a lesser degree. My Primo red shows no signs of clouding but then gain I really can't see whats happening on the inside. I use a flashlight and it still shows pretty clearly after months of use though. Tygon makes plasticizer free tubing.


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14186992*
> PrimoFlex... It has some but it seems to be to a lesser degree. My Primo red shows no signs of clouding but then gain I really can't see whats happening on the inside. I use a flashlight and it still shows pretty clearly after months of use though. Tygon makes plasticizer free tubing.


I think i'll just get tubing that's a single color so i cant see the inside, Lol









..Now the mission to get this rad mounted continues,
Has anyone used the
XSPC 120mm Universal Radstand?
I'm thinking if i can screw it into the base of my case where the 120mm fan sits then i can mount the RX240 vertically. Hopefully haha


----------



## holynorth

Running a 2500k at 4.5ghz with 1.3v in a NZXT Phantom and Thermtaltake Frio. Temperatures at idle are 28-30, load 65-68. Will I see any difference in temperatures if I go to an RX240? Looking to get a little quieter and clear up some space around my cpu.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *holynorth*


Running a 2500k at 4.5ghz with 1.3v in a NZXT Phantom and Thermtaltake Frio. Temperatures at idle are 28-30, load 65-68. Will I see any difference in temperatures if I go to an RX240? Looking to get a little quieter and clear up some space around my cpu.


Of course, even though that's a great air cooler water will perform better.

Noticeably better too.


----------



## gl0ry

XSPC might have the fastest RMA/CS dept ever.... I emailed them on Friday to tell them my pump was making loud noises and I got a replacement already today. It was even shipped from Hong Kong..

Good stuff.


----------



## Armegadon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


XSPC might have the fastest RMA/CS dept ever.... I emailed them on Friday to tell them my pump was making loud noises and I got a replacement already today. It was even shipped from Hong Kong..

Good stuff.


YAY you got your new one







grats.


----------



## PCBung

Any luck on lowering temps Gl0ry? I got some new TIM coming tomoz so see if that improves owt for me.


----------



## exzited

just bought my kit =o


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


Any luck on lowering temps Gl0ry? I got some new TIM coming tomoz so see if that improves owt for me.


Temps are about the same, but i came to realize they really aren't that bad considering my volts and hyper threading on. I am going to try new fans and see what happens. I was also told vertical mounting dropped someones temp by 5-6c.. but I don't want to take it out of my case, so I don't know yet.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gl0ry*


Temps are about the same, but i came to realize they really aren't that bad considering my volts and hyper threading on. I am going to try new fans and see what happens. I was also told vertical mounting dropped someones temp by 5-6c.. but I don't want to take it out of my case, so I don't know yet.


Let me know how that mount works out. I find it hard to believe the orientation would lower temps at all. (much less that substantially)


----------



## broke

maybe it wasnt seated properly the first time.


----------



## skyline_king88

hey looking at the rx 360 kit with extra rx 240 will it cool 2 gtx 280s and a phenomll 955be at 4.0 does any one know where to get 2 water blocks for gtx 280. is there any universal blocks.


----------



## ezveedub

The person that vertically mounted the rad and got better temps probably got the air bubbles out, LOL


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline_king88;14194382*
> hey looking at the rx 360 kit with extra rx 240 will it cool 2 gtx 280s and a phenomll 955be at 4.0 does any one know where to get 2 water blocks for gtx 280. is there any universal blocks.


Use two rasa blocks

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## skyline_king88

rasa universal what about memory and mosfits


----------



## wetfit9

Anyone know if as rx360 work better with a shroud or not. If so how much better.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## exzited

I just ordered my kit with 4 yate loons and i have a total of 4 shrouds how should i mount the fans and shrouds


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14196062*
> I just ordered my kit with 4 yate loons and i have a total of 4 shrouds how should i mount the fans and shrouds


I was also going to use some shrouds from what i was told you go like this

Fan-Shroud-Rad-Shroud-Fan.

I should be getting my kit this week.Need to order some tubing,Shrouds.etc.Can't wait.


----------



## robert125381

Anyone here interested in selling their kit im interested in buying








pm me


----------



## wetfit9

To shroud or not to shroud my rx360, that is the question?


----------



## ezveedub

I never used a shroud and have no cooling issues with any of my RX360 rads.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14198388*
> I never used a shroud and have no cooling issues with any of my RX360 rads.


Same, but you would get slightly better temps with shrouds. (every degree counts!







)


----------



## holynorth

How much tubing should I buy with my RS240 to be installed in my NZXT Phantom for CPU only loop? (Accounting for a little extra that I may need for a first timer)


----------



## exzited

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14198414*
> Same, but you would get slightly better temps with shrouds. (every degree counts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


How much is we talking about. 2? I'm debating whether to shroud or not


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holynorth;14202833*
> How much tubing should I buy with my RS240 to be installed in my NZXT Phantom for CPU only loop? (Accounting for a little extra that I may need for a first timer)


I did my loop with only 4 feet of tubing, but mind you, I had taken my old tubing out and measured it. I had about 7 inches of tubing left over.
I would buy 5 feet, 6feet if you really think you are going to use a lot.

oh and that 4 feet of tubing was with an extra part in there that used an extra like 4 or 5 inches of tubing.


----------



## holynorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14202901*
> I did my loop with only 4 feet of tubing, but mind you, I had taken my old tubing out and measured it. I had about 7 inches of tubing left over.
> I would buy 5 feet, 6feet if you really think you are going to use a lot.
> 
> oh and that 4 feet of tubing was with an extra part in there that used an extra like 4 or 5 inches of tubing.


Thanks! You just saved me a couple of bucks.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holynorth;14203012*
> Thanks! You just saved me a couple of bucks.


the first time I built my loop, I bought a retail package with 8 feet in it, and I have so much of that left over. Like probably half was left over when I was done.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14202861*
> How much is we talking about. 2? I'm debating whether to shroud or not


Yeah, around there. It really depends on the type of fan I guess, but I wouldn't expect to see more than a three degree difference between shrouded and non shrouded.


----------



## stonedzen

Edit: comment deleted by me


----------



## gl0ry

Got around to taking some pics. This is my rasa 750/240mm in my corsair 600T. Probably gonna change out the tubing to white to match the case better.


----------



## spRICE

I know this has been asked before but is it ok to go pump-> rad-> CPU block-> reservoir? I'm just wondering if there are any pressure problems with pumping water straight into the radiator


----------



## kiwiasian

Loop order does not matter

The only rule is the pump must be located physically below the reservoir, but since the XSPC pump is a res/pump combo it is irrelevant


----------



## spRICE

Thanks! That's what I thought but I just wanted to be sure.


----------



## broke

hey guys, couple of questions. just finished my install of the RX240 kit. and when i leak tested about a week ago the pump was pretty silent. now its not loud, but its definitely audible. sounds like im sitting next to an aquarium basically. just wondering if that's a regular sound or not.

also i believe there's still some air in the rad. when i tip the case about i can hear it sloshing about in there but ive turned it upside down every which way and cannot seem to get it out. any pointers?


----------



## Robffff

Hey everyone, just spent the good part of a night reading through this forum. Im just in the planning stages of a new build and i was hoping for some general feedback. What direction should the bottom fan go? and is the pump strong enough to push a loop like this without to much trouble.


----------



## kiwiasian

Is your reservoir filled all the way to the top?
If it is then check if there is an air bubble trapped in the upside down U on the left side of the pump, where the water is being sucked in
If it is, give it a few days to rid of air bubbles...if it is still loud then send an email to XSPC support with a video demonstrating the noise and they will tell you whether or not the pump is defective, and if it is they more than likely will replace it for you.


----------



## Frontsidebus

Hey there chaps! I've got a Corsair H100 on order but while it has been delayed I've been thinking. Should I cancel my order and get an RS240 kit? Cheers.


----------



## exzited

Wooten my kit just came in but my tubing wont be untilled today or tomorrow







I don't know what to do with myself till then


----------



## rmp459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14213077*
> Wooten my kit just came in but my tubing wont be untilled today or tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what to do with myself till then


Clean our your res and block with warm alcohol/distilled water mix and start planning.


----------



## exzited

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmp459;14213145*
> Clean our your res and block with warm alcohol/distilled water mix and start planning.


I was just about to ask how I should go about cleaning my stuff

I thought alcohol destroys acrylic


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;14212185*
> Hey there chaps! I've got a Corsair H100 on order but while it has been delayed I've been thinking. Should I cancel my order and get an RS240 kit? Cheers.


I also had a h100 on order but I canceled it and got a rs360 instead.Can't wait should be here today or tomorrow.


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;14212185*
> Hey there chaps! I've got a Corsair H100 on order but while it has been delayed I've been thinking. Should I cancel my order and get an RS240 kit? Cheers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmp459;14213145*
> Clean our your res and block with warm alcohol/distilled water mix and start planning.


is there a link on how to do this?


----------



## PCBung

Got my new MX-2 TIM today, see how much better it is over the included stuff... It was ALOT easier to spread! so its got points for that


----------



## Erick

Can the 750 rx360 handle the cpu block + 3x the hd6950 block?
I know i need more rads for the heat, but can the pump handle?


----------



## PCBung

After 30mins of prime95 I have dropped 7c on all cores just from changing the TIM to MX-2. Im happy


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick;14213841*
> Can the 750 rx360 handle the cpu block + 3x the hd6950 block?
> I know i need more rads for the heat, but can the pump handle?


you would need a better pump and extra rad either RX240 or another 360


----------



## Erick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14214285*
> you would need a better pump and extra rad either RX240 or another 360


About the rads i know.
And the pump, what pump would be a good one?
How many blocks/rads can the pump in the kit handle?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick;14214343*
> About the rads i know.
> And the pump, what pump would be a good one?
> How many blocks/rads can the pump in the kit handle?


Swiftech MCP35X is about the best pump out atm I believe

The kit pump is capable of cpu+sli/CF
Ppl have used the kit pump with your setup but it is pushing it with the restiction of 3 gpu blocks and a couple of rads


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBung;14214230*
> After 30mins of prime95 I have dropped 7c on all cores just from changing the TIM to MX-2. Im happy


Nice one. I'm using PK-1. I think the performance is about the same.


----------



## spRICE

Here is my new RS240:


----------



## Pandaga

Got received the RS240 today, post some pics later when I get it installed.


----------



## broke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;14211727*
> Is your reservoir filled all the way to the top?
> If it is then check if there is an air bubble trapped in the upside down U on the left side of the pump, where the water is being sucked in
> If it is, give it a few days to rid of air bubbles...if it is still loud then send an email to XSPC support with a video demonstrating the noise and they will tell you whether or not the pump is defective, and if it is they more than likely will replace it for you.


it was last night, i was tilting the case about to try and "dislodge" the air bubbles in the rad. it wouldnt go away and i kind of figured it was because i had too much water in the res it was filled so high that even when i removed the black cap i had to have a shamwow ready because it was coming out as soon as i broke the seal. i took a bit of water out and it seem to like that better.

the pump isnt really "loud" its definately audible though. prob just used to my silent pc before.

performance wise this thing is kicking ass, ive got my 2500k at 4.6ghz now and idle it sits at about 25-28 and full load is 45-48. insane.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;14215685*
> Here is my new RS240:


Black tubing looks amazing. The next time I empty my loop and upgrade the pump and reservoir I will use black tubing.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broke;14216058*
> it was last night, i was tilting the case about to try and "dislodge" the air bubbles in the rad. it wouldnt go away and i kind of figured it was because i had too much water in the res it was filled so high that even when i removed the black cap i had to have a shamwow ready because it was coming out as soon as i broke the seal. i took a bit of water out and it seem to like that better.
> 
> the pump isnt really "loud" its definately audible though. prob just used to my silent pc before.
> 
> performance wise this thing is kicking ass, ive got my 2500k at 4.6ghz now and idle it sits at about 25-28 and full load is 45-48. insane.


I found tilting and orienting the case upside down gets rid of air bubbles effectively (make sure res cap is tight). When I placed my computer case back on its wheels, tonnes of air bubbles rushed into the reservoir, and after adding a bit more water into the res, my pump has been dead silent and not audible at all ever since. I can only hear my power supply fan and its pretty much near silent. I also leave about a half inch of air in my res.


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14216241*
> Black tubing looks amazing. The next time I empty my loop and upgrade the pump and reservoir I will use black tubing.


Yeah I'm glad that I just used black tubing from the start.


----------



## broke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14216493*
> I found tilting and orienting the case upside down gets rid of air bubbles effectively (make sure res cap is tight). When I placed my computer case back on its wheels, tonnes of air bubbles rushed into the reservoir, and after adding a bit more water into the res, my pump has been dead silent and not audible at all ever since. I can only hear my power supply fan and its pretty much near silent. I also leave about a half inch of air in my res.


awesome, thanks for that. i also left about half in of air space in the res. my pump isnt loud it kind of just sounds like ive got fans on high in my case. but all my fans are on a controller set to lowest. but i'll continue to play around with it after work.

i only ran into a couple issues overall.
my 650D case with the P67A-GD65 i wasnt able to get the rad mounted in the default holes, i had to use the grill holes to mount it, luckily i was able to get 4 screws in through various methods.
also the Bitspower CC5 compression fittings don't fit the block all that well, i had to really force it on there which resulted in some small scratches happening on the fittings themselves. got them on and they dont leak but was a bit unfortunate. overall, fairly trouble free once it's going. still no silver but should only be a few more days till that arrives.


----------



## exzited

holy crap i just turned mine and it doesnt make ANY noise bravo!

now i have a question

since im going to mount it outside on the top of my case. should i use the stand offs and lift it and have 2 fans running on my top and pushpull on my rad or just mount them on the top and only have the push pull


----------



## DEEBS808

Got mu kit today.To bad I still need a few more parts.


----------



## exzited

how do i mount the amd bracket. i cant find any real instructions


----------



## golfergolfer

So I am going to be getting the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit and I just have a quick technical question... The kit uses 1/2 barbs for all the connectors and it comes with 7/16 ID tubing. i would like to swap it out for some different tubing but the ID would be 3/8... Would this be ok? i know that 7/16 is already smaller than 1/2 and 3/8 is even smaller so i was just wondering if i would have any problems in the long run??? like would the tube crack or break or something, if anyone is using 3/8 ID tubing plz help me with this. thanks in advance


----------



## spRICE

I don't think the tube would break because it's pretty tough stuff but you would have a really hard time getting it on the barbs. You probably wouldn't be able to do it. 7/8" is already pretty tight. I literally can't pull my tubing off the barb with 7/8". I would probably go with 1/2" tubing with clamps.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer;14220808*
> So I am going to be getting the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit and I just have a quick technical question... The kit uses 1/2 barbs for all the connectors and it comes with 7/16 ID tubing. i would like to swap it out for some different tubing but the ID would be 3/8... Would this be ok? i know that 7/16 is already smaller than 1/2 and 3/8 is even smaller so i was just wondering if i would have any problems in the long run??? like would the tube crack or break or something, if anyone is using 3/8 ID tubing plz help me with this. thanks in advance


No, 3/8" ID tubing is too small. You would have to install 3/8" barbs and get clamps to match. With a stock XSPC kit, use 7/16" ID tubing or 1/2" tubing only with the kit supplied barbs.


----------



## broke

apologise for the grainy pics, my phone doesnt take the best pics. best i can do for now, gf has my camera.

shame about the red 5850, but it was cheap so i had to have it.


----------



## golfergolfer

Ok thanks for ur answer spRICE and ezveedub but if I could also get a few more answers that would be great. The reason why I am pushing this so much is because there is a hose set up that I can get but it only comes in 3/8 ID tubing. Again few more answers would be great and again thanks in advance!!!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer;14221037*
> Ok thanks for ur answer spRICE and ezveedub but if I could also get a few more answers that would be great. The reason why I am pushing this so much is because there is a hose set up that I can get but it only comes in 3/8 ID tubing. Again few more answers would be great and again thanks in advance!!!


Well, you're going to have to get six 3/8" barbs and the 3/8" ID tubing with clamps and you should be fine. Make sure its flexible tubing like Primoflex


----------



## Mystic5hadow

So I just got my XSPX Rasa RX360 kit, but my Res/Pump's power cables pins came out of the plastic molex. I'm not sure which and where the two pins go into the plastic molex adapter, if anybody with this kit and/or res/pump can take a pic of the power plug for the Res/Pump, I would be extremely grateful!


----------



## spRICE

If you are looking straight at the connector towards where the pins would be pointing (not where the wire is coming out) and if the round part is on the top, the brown pin is on the far right and the blue pin is next to it. Hope that helps


----------



## SadistBlinx

What's some good fans for the RX and RS Rads?
Fast or slow speed? is there any good but cheap ones available.
And the screws i should be able to get from a hardware store? Does anyone know the thread and length of them?


----------



## Boyboyd

RX there's barely any difference in performance between low and high speed, because they have such a low fin density.

The RS have a much higher density though, so you'd be better off with fans with a larger static pressure. A lot of people swear by AP-15s for radiators. But you can use AP-13s which are silent on the RX rads without any noticeable loss in performance.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer;14220808*
> So I am going to be getting the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit and I just have a quick technical question... The kit uses 1/2 barbs for all the connectors and it comes with 7/16 ID tubing. i would like to swap it out for some different tubing but the ID would be 3/8... Would this be ok? i know that 7/16 is already smaller than 1/2 and 3/8 is even smaller so i was just wondering if i would have any problems in the long run??? like would the tube crack or break or something, if anyone is using 3/8 ID tubing plz help me with this. thanks in advance


you can use 3/8 id 5/8 od on 1/2" barbs ( *theseekeroffun* does this with no clamps) but it is hard to get on and the only way to get it off is to cut the tubing, for tubing go with Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14222844*
> you can use 3/8 id 5/8 od on 1/2" barbs ( *theseekeroffun* does this with no clamps) but it is hard to get on and the only way to get it off is to cut the tubing, for tubing go with Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT


You can just use 7/16" with no clamps thats all ive ever used.. Clamps ftl

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx*


What's some good fans for the RX and RS Rads?
Fast or slow speed? is there any good but cheap ones available.
And the screws i should be able to get from a hardware store? Does anyone know the thread and length of them?


The Gentle Typhoons fans and Yate Loons seems to be what most prefer. I run GT AP-15s on my RX rads and have no problems. Very low noise. The XSPC rads use 6/32 threading. If you your using a normal 120x25mm fan with fan grill, a 30mm length should work fine. What type of mounting are you doing with the fans and rad? Direct fan to rad, or rad mounted to case with fans on other side?


----------



## PCBung

Got my XSPC Universal block today, redid my loop and have the following:

GPU before
Idle: 52c
Load: 70-80c

GPU After
idle: 33c
load: 47c

CPU Temp hasn't changed adding the GFX block so good all round!

I'm running some alu heatsinks on the chips and will be adding a fan to blow on them soon.

Regards
Steve


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


Got my XSPC Universal block today, redid my loop and have the following:

GPU before
Idle: 52c
Load: 70-80c

GPU After
idle: 33c
load: 47c

CPU Temp hasn't changed adding the GFX block so good all round!

I'm running some alu heatsinks on the chips and will be adding a fan to blow on them soon.

Regards
Steve


What gpu? Im on my phone so I cant see.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Mesmero

Had a question, if someone can recommend a kit between the RS360 and the RX240 for a cpu+gpu loop I'd appreciate it. Also compression fittings recommendation, I was eying the Bitspower truesilvers but I'm not sure how much of a gimmick they are versus a silver coil. Also are the fans that come with it worth keeping or are they a day one replacement?


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


Had a question, if someone can recommend a kit between the RS360 and the RX240 for a cpu+gpu loop I'd appreciate it. Also compression fittings recommendation, I was eying the Bitspower truesilvers but I'm not sure how much of a gimmick they are versus a silver coil. Also are the fans that come with it worth keeping or are they a day one replacement?


RX240, between those two choices.

You need the silver kill coil, the fittings are silver colored, not made of silver.









You can get better fans, but I am using the ones that came with the kit. They are decent. I will eventually get Some GTs though.


----------



## Mesmero

Thanks,

It defies the mind why a 360 rad is worse than a 240 rad am I missing something?


----------



## spRICE

The RX240 is much thicker than the RS360.


----------



## Mesmero

Think I'm going to breakdown and buy an RX360 then, anyone know of any deals?


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


Think I'm going to breakdown and buy an RX360 then, anyone know of any deals?


What do you mean?


----------



## Mesmero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


What do you mean?


Price reductions from retailers.


----------



## PCBung

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


what gpu? Im on my phone so i cant see.

Sent from my droidx using tapatalk


amd 6950


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


Price reductions from retailers.


Oh wow I totally don't even know what I was thinking when I read your post the first time








I got my system from Jab-Tech and used the coupon code Facebook to receive 5% off.


----------



## BlazeR

Before GPU temps on stock dual fan / heat pipe: 
55-60C

After GPU temps on XSPC: 
35-40C

*XSPC Rasa 450 RS120 + XSPC Razor 460*

Upgraded MB cooling (AA thermal adhesive used on NB, mosfets, choke sinks). That huge mosfet cooler (hacked CPU heatsink) gets burning hot at 1.42v Vcore 3.6ghz









Modified to work on a NON-REFERENCE GTX460!! Used more thermal adhesive to attach sinks on to mosfets and choke. 









Finished









Radiator and pump out front


----------



## Mesmero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


Oh wow I totally don't even know what I was thinking when I read your post the first time








I got my system from Jab-Tech and used the coupon code Facebook to receive 5% off.


Thx their out of stock tho, guess I'll wait.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


You can just use 7/16" with no clamps thats all ive ever used.. Clamps ftl

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


yes and others have had 7/16 come off when they haven't used clamps on.
But the question I was answering was can 3/8" ID tubing be used on 1/2" barbs which is yes it can.
weather ppl use clamps or not is upto the individual and how cofident they feel.


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


amd 6950


I had 2 6950's on a rx240 and the never broke 39c. Strange unless you have very high ambient temps.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## PCBung

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


I had 2 6950's on a rx240 and the never broke 39c. Strange unless you have very high ambient temps.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I wouldn't think I had high ambient, but my fans only run at 600-700rpm on the rad dunno if this would make a big diff?


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


I wouldn't think I had high ambient, but my fans only run at 600-700rpm on the rad dunno if this would make a big diff?


Possibly because the rx240 has 140cfm fans in push pull.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## PCBung

I'm going to get some gentle typhoons 1450's soon which should help.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


I wouldn't think I had high ambient, but my fans only run at 600-700rpm on the rad dunno if this would make a big diff?


put your fans upto about 1500/1800 you'd get better temps


----------



## PCBung

Standard fans are loud though?!


----------



## PCBung

Also just to note my load temps are on FurMark, In game my load is around 35c-37c


----------



## exzited

how do i set up the screws for amd mount?


----------



## PCBung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14226283*
> how do i set up the screws for amd mount?


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STY5uy26yfM&feature=related[/ame] < not my video but shows you how to do it.


----------



## PCBung

Deleted


----------



## exzited

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBung;14226355*
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STY5uy26yfM&feature=related < not my video but shows you how to do it.


obv wrong based on spring placement. is there no way to use the back place i use to mount onto a bare mother board?


----------



## PCBung

You dont use a backplate with the RASA 750 on AMD...

Screw > Plastic washer > Mobo > little metal bolt > spring > CPU block > Metal thumb screws


----------



## Mystic5hadow

This has been nothing but a headache since I got it yesterday. I've got a RX360 kit, but the pump/res that came with it had problems with the molex power, the pins came out and I had to properly affix them myself. All was well. I left the pump running all day and night for a 24hr leak test, only to awake to the pump not being on and not starting up any longer.

Anybody know what could cause this and if there's an easy fix?
Anybody else have this problem?
If I can't fix it, what should I do, try to ship it back to the place I ordered it from or contact XSPC directly?

I was all excited for this thing to arrive, but this res/pump issue has really dampened my mood and enthusiasm.


----------



## Taylorsci

Contact XSPC, they will have a new pump/res to you shortly.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14227739*
> Contact XSPC, they will have a new pump/res to you shortly.


Do they send me a new one then I send them my old one? Or do I need to send my old one first?


----------



## exzited

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBung;14226649*
> You dont use a backplate with the RASA 750 on AMD...
> 
> Screw > Plastic washer > Mobo > little metal bolt > spring > CPU block > Metal thumb screws


Safe without a back plate?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14227870*
> Safe without a back plate?


No, do yourself a favour and use the amd backplate. There is a simple mod you do to make it functional. It's in one of the posts on this site.


----------



## Mesmero

Have one more question for the gurus here, would these barbs be good for RX360 kit?
http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-True-Silver-G1-4-High-Flow-1-2-Barb-BP-SLWP-C01-pr-4397.html


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mesmero;14228726*
> Have one more question for the gurus here, would these barbs be good for RX360 kit?
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-True-Silver-G1-4-High-Flow-1-2-Barb-BP-SLWP-C01-pr-4397.html


they would work same size as ones that come with kit


----------



## Mesmero

Thx, anyone used the barbs above?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mesmero;14228726*
> Have one more question for the gurus here, would these barbs be good for RX360 kit?
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-True-Silver-G1-4-High-Flow-1-2-Barb-BP-SLWP-C01-pr-4397.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mesmero;14228862*
> Thx, anyone used the barbs above?


I have used those barbs. They are slightly larger than the stock XSPC 1/2" barbs, so be ready to really push the tubing on. The 7/16" tubing is also harder to remove also from those barbs, so keep this in mind.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow*


Do they send me a new one then I send them my old one? Or do I need to send my old one first?


Just get in contact with them, you'll find out. Normally they just let you keep the old one and they send you a new one.


----------



## Busyhand

Quick question, what pins on the PSU molex do i need to place a paper clip in to leak test the loop without having to plug it into the motherboard? I am going to drain my loop in a few days and add a proper T line and drain plug.

Also, anyone else not able to fit any compression fitting on the outlet on the reservoir?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


Quick question, what pins on the PSU molex do i need to place a paper clip in to leak test the loop without having to plug it into the motherboard? I am going to drain my loop in a few days and add a proper T line and drain plug.


Green and Black works. Did your kit not come with the plastic jumper?


----------



## robert125381

<<<<<<
kit wanted


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *robert125381*


<<<<<<
kit wanted










Lol







One of my sisters lives in Mesa


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14232100*
> Green and Black works. Did your kit not come with the plastic jumper?


I did not get any jumper in my kit. Did you all get one?


----------



## robert125381

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


Lol







One of my sisters lives in Mesa










lol yeah?
nothing going on here lol its too hot!!
hide inside or find water!!!


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


I did not get any jumper in my kit. Did you all get one?


I got one.


----------



## rheicel

can i join? the build logs for my rasa kit with RX240 inside SFF case will be interesting. here is the link. Thanks


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Anybody in Canada, specifically Calgary, know of any good place to go (online or in-store) to get water cooling parts? I'm looking to get some primochill UV blue tubing, but the shipping costs fro stores like Daz are just ridiculous if I want the tubing any time soon.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow;14233632*
> Anybody in Canada, specifically Calgary, know of any good place to go (online or in-store) to get water cooling parts? I'm looking to get some primochill UV blue tubing, but the shipping costs fro stores like Daz are just ridiculous if I want the tubing any time soon.


Try http://www.directcanada.com They have primochill in stock and a moderate selection of water cooling parts.


----------



## exzited

so my temps only dropped about 5c compared to a h60 with res

disappointing honestly


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14238339*
> so my temps only dropped about 5c compared to a h60 with res
> 
> disappointing honestly


What kind of temps are we talking about? What kit did you get? And did you use the tim that came with the kit?


----------



## exzited

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;14238347*
> What kind of temps are we talking about? What kit did you get? And did you use the tim that came with the kit?


28 idle - 47 load

i had 51 from a modded h60

rs240

as5

oh and i just used the intel screws since they were the same thread as my stock back plate


----------



## spRICE

Well AS5 is kind of an aging thermal grease. The corsair kits come with Shin Etsu pre-installed, so if you were using the stock grease on the Corsair then you were using a much better grease than AS5. And has your AS5 cured long enough?


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


Well AS5 is kind of an aging thermal grease. The corsair kits come with Shin Etsu pre-installed, so if you were using the stock grease on the Corsair then you were using a much better grease than AS5. And has your AS5 cured long enough?


ill see what happens when it cures but i guess it isnt too bad

52 with h60 modded 1.425 volts

53 with rasa 1.5 volts

so i guess the temps are better

also i was using as5 on it too

holy crap intel screwset looks so much better then the amd one


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


ill see what happens when it cures but i guess it isnt too bad

52 with h60 modded 1.425 volts

53 with rasa 1.5 volts

so i guess the temps are better

also i was using as5 on it too

holy crap intel screwset looks so much better then the amd one


Yeah well the H60 is a really good cooler as far as all-in-ones go so don't be surprised that your temps aren't all that much better. And yeah the AMD screws are fugly


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


Yeah well the H60 is a really good cooler as far as all-in-ones go so don't be surprised that your temps aren't all that much better. And yeah the AMD screws are fugly










just glad they were the same threads as my back plate









also how do i know if my pump is running at 100%


----------



## gl0ry

Just wanted to say that the new pump/res xspc sent me for the 750 kit is pretty much dead silent. If you have any noise with yours you should contact them for a replacement.


----------



## robert125381

someone sell me their darn kit!!!!!


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *robert125381*


someone sell me their darn kit!!!!!


Good luck.


----------



## luXfer

Ordered mine yesterday from Jab-Tech (the last RX360!). Sadly, I maxed out my pay-check on other luxuries, so I only have 3/4th of what I want ordered.

I then further jumped the gun by building a rudimentary work-log (in the sig, if you'd like a peek). Can't wait to flesh it out though!


----------



## robert125381

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Good luck.










your telling me lol.
... DROP THE RASA KIT AND WALK AWAY...


----------



## Agenesis

Anyone tried to push/pull on the RS360? Any temperature improvements?


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robert125381;14243526*
> someone sell me their darn kit!!!!!


I will sell you my pump/res


----------



## SadistBlinx

Yep so i think i just got my 2nd faulty pump from XSPC,
At first it was silent and now it has a constant noise like vibration, have taken pump out of the case and back in same noise. Tested with no fans running also to isolate vibration and noise and its definitely coming from the pump.

duration has been since Friday night to Sunday night

Such a shame too my cpu was @ 4ghz with 26c the highest core temp idle ...now im @ stock with 24c my highest temp idle.
Room ambient is 17c

Running intel burn test @ stock and cores are hitting 40c+

When i first hooked it back up the idle temps were the same as my room temp so i was getting 9c across all cores. I cant do that again even if i turn the AC on and have the room freezing.


----------



## exzited

How do I know if the pump is running at 100%


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


Anyone tried to push/pull on the RS360? Any temperature improvements?


just watched a vid showing with push/pull gave 4c difference


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx*


Yep so i think i just got my 2nd faulty pump from XSPC,
At first it was silent and now it has a constant noise like vibration, have taken pump out of the case and back in same noise. Tested with no fans running also to isolate vibration and noise and its definitely coming from the pump.

duration has been since Friday night to Sunday night

Such a shame too my cpu was @ 4ghz with 26c the highest core temp idle ...now im @ stock with 24c my highest temp idle.
Room ambient is 17c

Running intel burn test @ stock and cores are hitting 40c+

When i first hooked it back up the idle temps were the same as my room temp so i was getting 9c across all cores. I cant do that again even if i turn the AC on and have the room freezing.


I think that it should be noted that (in my expierience) The pump has to be filled almost all the way and it should stop all the vibrations. I was getting some killer vibrations from my pump before and the water was filled up to the top of the u-bend acrylic inside of the res. I filled it up all the way and restarted my computer and voila! No noise! I hope that helps anybody that's reading


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hey guys, I've gotten the kit installed. However is it normal to have loads of little bubbles surrounding the pump in the res? The tubing looks good, only maybe a few tiny little bubbles clinging on in the tubes.

Cheers guys


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14247179*
> Hey guys, I've gotten the kit installed. However is it normal to have loads of little bubbles surrounding the pump in the res? The tubing looks good, only maybe a few tiny little bubbles clinging on in the tubes.
> 
> Cheers guys


Yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SadistBlinx;14243793*
> Yep so i think i just got my 2nd faulty pump from XSPC,
> At first it was silent and now it has a constant noise like vibration, have taken pump out of the case and back in same noise. Tested with no fans running also to isolate vibration and noise and its definitely coming from the pump.
> 
> duration has been since Friday night to Sunday night
> 
> Such a shame too my cpu was @ 4ghz with 26c the highest core temp idle ...now im @ stock with 24c my highest temp idle.
> Room ambient is 17c
> 
> Running intel burn test @ stock and cores are hitting 40c+
> 
> When i first hooked it back up the idle temps were the same as my room temp so i was getting 9c across all cores. I cant do that again even if i turn the AC on and have the room freezing.


Wow, that a nice ambient!


----------



## Matt26LFC

Thanks for your response Taylorsci, could I possibly press you for an explanation as to why? Also how long should I leak test for? It's been running now for about 3 hours and so far so good.

When I'm all done I'll throw up some pics and performance numbers

Cheers


----------



## DEEBS808

Got my kit couple days ago.


----------



## Greenback

you leak test to see if there are any leaks









it is better to test for leaks with no power going to your system, because if you do have a leak when your mb+ gpu have power going through them water and electricity don't like eachother, it's easier to wipe up water then replace gfx motherboard and possibly cpu
How long to test for officially 24 hours but depends how confident you are it's safe if it's not leaked for 3 hours then it maybe ok, if you start it up just keep side of case off and watch for leaks and water lvl in res


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14247537*
> Thanks for your response Taylorsci, could I possibly press you for an explanation as to why? Also how long should I leak test for? It's been running now for about 3 hours and so far so good.
> 
> When I'm all done I'll throw up some pics and performance numbers
> 
> Cheers


I think any real explanation of that would require going into all types of physics and junk I don't understand.

But the little bubbles go though-out the whole loop and attach to stuff, eventually they detach and end up as air in the res, just how it is.

I leak tested overnight, woke-up no leaks so I powered it up. I still don't have any leaks.
If you are patient enough I would wait at least 24 hours, if there is a leak it can do some serious damage. (or it can not affect anything)


----------



## The Sandman

To help the bubbles dissipate a little faster you can actually tap on the tubing/radiator where you see bubbles (I even quickly pinch the tubing) plus tilting the case in all directions will also help.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14247728*
> you leak test to see if there are any leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is better to test for leaks with no power going to your system, because if you do have a leak when your mb+ gpu have power going through them water and electricity don't like eachother, it's easier to wipe up water then replace gfx motherboard and possibly cpu
> How long to test for officially 24 hours but depends how confident you are it's safe if it's not leaked for 3 hours then it maybe ok, if you start it up just keep side of case off and watch for leaks and water lvl in res


Cheers matey, I've not got power running through my system, got that thing you plug into the 24pin Mobo connector so its just the pump running. May leave it a little while longer then completely re-assemble when I get in from work 2morrow.

Cheers Taylor, I'll just leave it as it is then.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14247699*
> Got my kit couple days ago.


Did you get a jumper molex with your kit?


----------



## microman

a psu jumper comes with all the kits.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;14248427*
> a psu jumper comes with all the kits.


I never got one and I use another computer to leak test


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quick question, I was thinking about getting one of these XSPC Rasa kits. Which would be the right choice for me? I want to cool my CPU & my 6950's. I also only got a mid tower. Don't know if that'll affect anything other than the size of the rad I can fit.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;14248618*
> Quick question, I was thinking about getting one of these XSPC Rasa kits. Which would be the right choice for me? I want to cool my CPU & my 6950's. I also only got a mid tower. Don't know if that'll affect anything other than the size of the rad I can fit.


RX 360 would perform well, for extra performance you can also fit an RS/X 240 or RX/S 120.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14248799*
> RX 360 would perform well, for extra performance you can also fit an RS/X 240 or RX/S 120.


I'd be able to fit a RX360 in my 650D?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;14249011*
> I'd be able to fit a RX360 in my 650D?


Doubt it without modification, it can go outside though.


----------



## Greenback

now this is funny with the exchange rates as they are I can buy one of these kits in USA and ship it to UK cheaper then buying it in uk


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;14249011*
> I'd be able to fit a RX360 in my 650D?


I've got a 650D sitting in my spare room waiting for an RX240 kit to arrive. From what I can see it won't fit a 360 rad without some kind of modification.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14249127*
> now this is funny with the exchange rates as they are I can buy one of these kits in USA and ship it to UK cheaper then buying it in uk


That might not work out so well if customs hit you with a charge though?


----------



## robert125381

yeah us americans think it is hilarious


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14249222*
> I've got a 650D sitting in my spare room waiting for an RX240 kit to arrive. From what I can see it won't fit a 360 rad without some kind of modification.
> 
> That might not work out so well if customs hit you with a charge though?


I thought RX rads are to thick to fit in the 650D.


----------



## Greenback

with RS240 +RX120
http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1065960-650d-water-cooled-build.html#post14220893


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14249552*
> with RS240 +RX120
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1065960-650d-water-cooled-build.html#post14220893


Yea you showed me this before









I was talking about Infected rat. He said he has an RX240 kit thats waiting to arrive so he can install in his 650D. I thought many people said it wouldn't fit @ the top of the case.


----------



## Greenback

by the looks in the pics on that thread it would overhang the motherboard


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;14249626*
> I was talking about Infected rat. He said he has an RX240 kit thats waiting to arrive so he can install in his 650D. I thought many people said it wouldn't fit @ the top of the case.


I'm prepared to do some modifications if necessary but I'm pretty sure it will fit up top. Here's a recent thread discussing it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;13016103*
> I built the 650D recently and have the RX240 mounted at the top.


Sadly I'm waiting on stock for now so the project is on hold.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14249222*
> That might not work out so well if customs hit you with a charge though?


yeah wouldn't that be the case UK goverment ruin all the fun so Councils can spend £3000 on £300 laptops


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14249734*
> I'm prepared to do some modifications if necessary but I'm pretty sure it will fit up top. Here's a recent thread discussing it.
> 
> Sadly I'm waiting on stock for now so the project is on hold.


So after all the commotion about an RX240 not fitting @ the top of the 650D, it actually will...









I don't want to have to mod anything on the case. I just want to be able to mount a RX240 with some AP-15's pushing air out thru the top and not having any issues with my ram or mobo.


----------



## 18n0m3

if i get an XSPC Rasa 750 RX360, just the rad itself. will it come with all the screws as well?

thanks in advance!


----------



## Greenback

easiest way is a tape measure and measure 88mm from top of case 63 for rad and 25 for fan


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *18n0m3;14249956*
> if i get an XSPC Rasa 750 RX360, just the rad itself. will it come with all the screws as well?
> 
> thanks in advance!


Yessir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14249985*
> easiest way is a tape measure and measure 88mm from top of case 63 for rad and 25 for fan


I don't have my case yet and if I did no tape measure


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14249127*
> now this is funny with the exchange rates as they are I can buy one of these kits in USA and ship it to UK cheaper then buying it in uk


Even with all the duties and taxes?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


Even with all the duties and taxes?


well works out Â£147 so would depend on how much they sting you for


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Alright I think I figured out what im going to do to get out of this little predicament. I'm going to buy the Rasa RS240 for the top and this for the bottom.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12103/ex-rad-186/Phobya_Xtreme_200mm_Radiator_Silverstone_Cooler_Master_Yate_Loon.html#blank

Anyone know if this is a bad idea?


----------



## Greenback

doesn't look like there is any venting in the bottom


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


doesn't look like there is any venting in the bottom


I would use the Yate Loons 220mm fans in a push/pull config.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...mad&mv_pc=1856

You still think theres not enough venting? I don't wanna buy something that'll be useless









EDIT: They seem like good fans. How loud is 25.5dBA?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


now this is funny with the exchange rates as they are I can buy one of these kits in USA and ship it to UK cheaper then buying it in uk


When CS4 came out, it was cheaper to fly to New York. Buy it, then fly back.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;14250356*
> I would use the Yate Loons 220mm fans in a push/pull config.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11022/fan-707/Yate_Loon_220mm_x_30mm_System_Fan_D22SL-12H.html?id=VPNaDmad&mv_pc=1856
> 
> You still think theres not enough venting? I don't wanna buy something that'll be useless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: They seem like good fans. How loud is 25.5dBA?


I ment there is no holes in the bottom of the case for the rad to suck in air from

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14250480*
> When CS4 came out, it was cheaper to fly to New York. Buy it, then fly back.


They had a lap top that cost so much over here you could fly to NY spend the night and fly back with laptop and still save good old briton
I bought a gfx card from usa saved me £100 even after goverments anal taxes


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


When CS4 came out, it was cheaper to fly to New York. Buy it, then fly back.


Sounds like a good excuse to go pickup a pie.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14250615*
> I ment there is no holes in the bottom of the case for the rad to suck in air from


It would be mounted behind the bottom 200mm fan.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Quick question, should I mount my RX360 at the top of my 800D as intake or exhaust? I hear intake can cause overheating of components?


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow;14251315*
> Quick question, should I mount my RX360 at the top of my 800D as intake or exhaust? I hear intake can cause overheating of components?


You don't want it as an intake as all the hot air will be pushed into the case and all over your components. Heat naturally rises anyways, so leave it as exhaust. I tried intake and my case turned into an oven even with an exhaust fan at the back of my case.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

That's what I was afraid of. Guess I'll remount my Rad when my new res/pump arrives. Thanks!


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow;14252959*
> That's what I was afraid of. Guess I'll remount my Rad when my new res/pump arrives. Thanks!


np! Post an update on the pump/res when you get it.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Will do!

Also, anybody know if Primochill Anti-Kink Coil will really be enough to cover all the tubes in my loop? 40" is only 3.33 feet right? Should I order two?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow*


Will do!

Also, anybody know if Primochill Anti-Kink Coil will really be enough to cover all the tubes in my loop? 40" is only 3.33 feet right? Should I order two?


Do you need full Anti-Kink coil over all the tubing? If so, they maybe. If it's just for tight bends, then no.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Do you need full Anti-Kink coil over all the tubing? If so, they maybe. If it's just for tight bends, then no.


I'd like it on pretty much all the visible tubing.

Though, is the 3.33 feet the length when the coil is compressed to make sort of a solid tube? Or is that the overall length you'd get when stretching it straight out?

It says it should be enough for a typical CPU loop, but not many loops are only 3.33 feet of tubing, are they?


----------



## infected rat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


You don't want it as an intake as all the hot air will be pushed into the case and all over your components. Heat naturally rises anyways, so leave it as exhaust. I tried intake and my case turned into an oven even with an exhaust fan at the back of my case.


I don't agree. I will be mounting my RX240 as top intake in my 650D when all parts are collected. The "heat rises" thing is a red herring since heat goes where you push it with fans way way more than heat rises through convection.

I would want the cooler ambient air entering the radiator for best cooling, you can set up case exhaust fans where ever you want to quickly remove the hotter air that has entered the case. The air that enters the case will be warmer than ambient but it's not like it's going to fry your components it's so hot. Just make sure you have good flow over your VRMs and mobo heatsinks etc and you'll get much better temps than having the rad output air.

Really the heat rises thing needs to die, it's totally irrelevant once you get the air moving with a couple of fans.


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow*


I'd like it on pretty much all the visible tubing.

Though, is the 3.33 feet the length when the coil is compressed to make sort of a solid tube? Or is that the overall length you'd get when stretching it straight out?

It says it should be enough for a typical CPU loop, but not many loops are only 3.33 feet of tubing, are they?


Sounds about right for a cpu loop... You use a lot less tubing than you would think

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Frontsidebus

Just ordered an RS240 kit but just have a quick question. I would assume the best setup would be: pump > CPU block > radiator > expansion tank, so the heat gets dumped from the loop right away but I see that the majority of people use the radiator before the CPU block. Is that the best order for a loop?

Thanks.


----------



## bdpakaknox

Loop order does not make a difference as long as the pump is before the res.
When using this kit however, the pump and res are one in the same. So set your loop in such a way to use the shortest length of tubing and youll be fine.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hey guys back with another question, I'm in the process of putting everything back together. However cable management being the ***** that it is I'm trying to reduce three amount of cable. Now I have three Yate Loons in the front of my Antec 1200 these fans however have both 3pin and 4molex connector, can I simply cut off the molex "literally" wrap some electrical tape around the ends and just leave it at that? Or is that a no no

Cheers

Matt


----------



## infected rat

That's what I'd do. As long as you make sure not to leave any exposed wire I can't see a problem with it.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14257227*
> That's what I'd do. As long as you make sure not to leave any exposed wire I can't see a problem with it.


Cheers Rat, thought I could, just wanted to hear it from someone else


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14254676*
> I don't agree. I will be mounting my RX240 as top intake in my 650D when all parts are collected. The "heat rises" thing is a red herring since heat goes where you push it with fans way way more than heat rises through convection.
> 
> I would want the cooler ambient air entering the radiator for best cooling, you can set up case exhaust fans where ever you want to quickly remove the hotter air that has entered the case. The air that enters the case will be warmer than ambient but it's not like it's going to fry your components it's so hot. Just make sure you have good flow over your VRMs and mobo heatsinks etc and you'll get much better temps than having the rad output air.
> 
> Really the heat rises thing needs to die, it's totally irrelevant once you get the air moving with a couple of fans.


Try this with an overclocked CPU and GTX480(s), and you will see how extremely warm the air can get. Like I said, I have tried intake, and the heat build up inside the case was massive and extremely warm even with good exhaust fans.
Intake was counter productive as my tubing and reservoir became extremely warm as well as other components. My GPU temp spiked and became 20c higher, my cpu temp were 14c higher, VRMs became too hot to touch, and my system became unstable with BSOD when overclocking. So from my personal experience, intake can be bad.

Right now with an exhaust set my idle CPU temp is 24c, load temp is 59c and GPU idle is 35c with load temp between 48-55c (depending on the game). This is even lower at night.


----------



## Erick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14257159*
> Hey guys back with another question, I'm in the process of putting everything back together. However cable management being the ***** that it is I'm trying to reduce three amount of cable. Now I have three Yate Loons in the front of my Antec 1200 these fans however have both 3pin and 4molex connector, can I simply cut off the molex "literally" wrap some electrical tape around the ends and just leave it at that? Or is that a no no
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Matt


Yes you can just me sure yyou wrap it good, so it doesnt come loose with time and short, and take out your psu.


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14257498*
> Try this with an overclocked CPU and GTX480(s), and you will see how extremely warm the air can get. Like I said, I have tried intake, and the heat build up inside the case was massive and extremely warm even with good exhaust fans.


Sounds like a basic lack of proper airflow to me. More fresh air intake elsewhere and better outflow of air. It doesn't matter if you say you had plenty - the fact is heat built up inside the case so you clearly did not have enough.


----------



## Kieran

Which budget case is best for the 240mm rad kit or will the case i already have be suitable?


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14257768*
> Sounds like a basic lack of proper airflow to me. More fresh air intake elsewhere and better outflow of air. It doesn't matter if you say you had plenty - the fact is heat built up inside the case so you clearly did not have enough.


You don't understand how much heat the GTX480's produce especially when overclocked. I have 3 intake fans, 2x200mm, 1xAP15 and 1 outake 140mm. I also tried different combinations with exhaust and intake with these fans and other fans and nothing changed. Everything is perfect with exhaust, why would I need to enforce intake?


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14257905*
> You don't understand how much heat the GTX480's produce especially when overclocked. I have 3 intake fans, 2x200mm, 1xAP15 and 1 outake 140mm. I also tried different combinations with exhaust and intake with these fans and other fans and nothing changed. Everything is perfect with exhaust, why would I need to enforce intake?


I agree, with 480s it's a difficult job and quite probably you have arrived at a reasonable compromise. But your situation is surely not the norm and I would stand by my assertion that intaking fresh air over a radiator is - in general - preferable.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14258087*
> I agree, with 480s it's a difficult job and quite probably you have arrived at a reasonable compromise. But your situation is surely not the norm and I would stand by my assertion that intaking fresh air over a radiator is - in general - preferable.


I agree that direct fresh air over the radiator is always better, and thats why people with external radiators generally get better temps. People with internal radiators and with multiple blocks, generally go with exhaust to avoid rad heat being blown into the case altogether which can be counterproductive like in my case. I have seen some people build an air duct on their radiator inside their case so they can go with intake.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Rat, Busy, I'm going to be running my RX360 internally in the front of my Antec 1200! So I'll have fresh air coming in from the front then fans on the opposite side of the rad pulling it through into the case. Heat build up is a concern I'm having, especially on my crossfire 6950s. Do either of you think the 2 120mm fans and 200mm fan in the roof will be adequate exhaust to keep temps in the case reasonable?

I could always add the side fan maybe as intake to add cooler air into the mix


----------



## PCBung

Is a Laing DDC 1T+ Pump with XSPC Top a better pump than the X20?


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBung;14258920*
> Is a Laing DDC 1T+ Pump with XSPC Top a better pump than the X20?


Yes

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## sean222

Just got my XSPC Rasa RS240 and installed it in my Corsair 650D on my eVGA 470 GTX.

I'm pretty impressed with the quality of the kit. Especially the Res/Pump.
I'd post pics but it's nothing special.

One word of caution with the 650D though...With the RS240 rad up top, it's an extremely tight fit with my H80 CPU cooler, both rads are physically touching. Not good. Obviously no chance a RX240 would fit.

If I could do it all over again. Definately Corsair 800D. 650D fails at good watercooling. Unless you're willing to do your own mods to it.

Results:

Stock eVGA 470 GTX Cooler: around *38 idle and load in 80's or 90's* with the fan on a resonable level.

XSPC Rasa RS240 with EK470Acetal block: *41 idle and 51 max load*. (1100mv overvolted - 825mhz core)


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14258565*
> I agree that direct fresh air over the radiator is always better, and thats why people with external radiators generally get better temps. People with internal radiators and with multiple blocks, generally go with exhaust to avoid rad heat being blown into the case altogether which can be counterproductive like in my case. I have seen some people build an air duct on their radiator inside their case so they can go with intake.


I have a rx360 up top in my case and a rx240 in push pull down the bottom and they are both intake and I have only one high cfm exhaust in the the rear and I have no issues with overheating anywhere in my case.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14258800*
> Rat, Busy, I'm going to be running my RX360 internally in the front of my Antec 1200! So I'll have fresh air coming in from the front then fans on the opposite side of the rad pulling it through into the case. Heat build up is a concern I'm having, especially on my crossfire 6950s. Do either of you think the 2 120mm fans and 200mm fan in the roof will be adequate exhaust to keep temps in the case reasonable?
> 
> I could always add the side fan maybe as intake to add cooler air into the mix


I would say experiment with both, stress test to get the worst scenario, monitor all temps, even check inside the case then pick the one the yields the best overall temps.


----------



## Dradien

I'm getting the RS360 kit, and I have a quick question regarding upgradability on it. I'm currently running (and going to be cooling) a Phenom II x3 720 @ 4 cores with the water kit. Will this kit (well...the pump) be able to handle a block for a 6950? I'm looking to add on to the loop in the near future and I'm wondering if I'm going to need another pump or res.

Thanks!


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dradien*


I'm getting the RS360 kit, and I have a quick question regarding upgradability on it. I'm currently running (and going to be cooling) a Phenom II x3 720 @ 4 cores with the water kit. Will this kit (well...the pump) be able to handle a block for a 6950? I'm looking to add on to the loop in the near future and I'm wondering if I'm going to need another pump or res.

Thanks!


the pump will do fine, if you add another gfx card as in CF you may need another rad


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Anybody know how long it takes XSPC to send out a new res/pump and how long it takes to arrive? Also, by what means do they send it? UPS? FedEx?

I tried asking Dazhong from XSPC but he didn't reply, I need to know as I live in an apartment building with a messed up paging system and I didn't provide a buzz code, so I'm worried that the res/pump will arrive and I won't even know it as I have no tracking number or anything and the delivery person won't be able to buzz my apartment to get in.

Also, I live in Canada so I don't know if that will make much of a difference.


----------



## Pandaga

Finally got my kit installed, leak test done as well. Mounting the rad on the back was ridiculously painful.


----------



## Dradien

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


the pump will do fine, if you add another gfx card as in CF you may need another rad


Thanks bud!

One more quick series of questions if you (and the forum) don't mind.

Tomorrow my kit gets here, and I'm wondering about flushing out my components. Now I know I have to do my rad, but I also read to flush out the CPU block...do I need to, or is XSPC good with this?

What is the best method for cleaning out the rad? Boil some (tap) water and stick that in a couple times followed my distilled? Should I hook up my hose to it and blast the **** out of it to get out any big particles followed by boiled tap and then distilled?

Also, for the fitting. I have watched TONS of videos on setting up loops, and people generally recommend a wrench for making sure the barbs are tight. I keep all the tools in the van, which is gone all day, and I want the right wrench available to me when the kit gets here, so what size does the barbs take?

Thanks!


----------



## neybis

im pretty sure every where I've read has said finger tight, let the o-rings do their job. If you use a wrench you better be careful especially with the bay res. As for rinsing, I would rinse _everything_ with boiled distilled. Why chance it? Set it up right the first time and you won't be tearing down all your hard work in a couple months







Hopefully you don't have as bad of luck with your rad as I have had with mine


----------



## broke

im having a dilemma with my silver package from the USA, my tracking states its still sitting in the USA even though it was shipped almost 2 weeks ago, now ive been running my WC loop for about a week now expecting to see the silver shortly after with the idea of just putting it in, ive just started chasing up this package as id kind of like to know where it is.

basically how much longer can i safely run my looop with just distilled until i start to see issues with the water condition? the water still looks crystal clear, has no cloudiness or anything happening. but i dont want to have the water deteriorate to the point where i need to pull the block off and clean it.


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pandaga*


Finally got my kit installed, leak test done as well. Mounting the rad on the back was ridiculously painful.











when people run their rad in the back how do they access the ports in the back?


----------



## Nude_Lewd_Man

Just signed up for membership... Pics available on my site in the /WC directory....


----------



## bdpakaknox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


when people run their rad in the back how do they access the ports in the back?


It varies from case to case but most of the time the PCI slot connections are still available due to the rads distance from the back of the case.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14265339*
> when people run their rad in the back how do they access the ports in the back?


I mounted the rad on the back using the read 120mm fan hole, and mounting it on the bottom screw holes on the rad. It sticks up past the top of my case but at least i can get to both DVI ports.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Ok guys i've got everything up and running, all worked which is always a relief lol

I do go CPU Fan error everytime i boot up, how to i get rid of that?

Anyway temps so far are as follows

Idle 31,25,31,25 (Not sure why i get a 6c difference on two cores, but its always been weird like that)

Load 48,44,46,43 (Prime95 Large FFTs)

Thats at stock settings on my i7 930

Is that looking normal?


----------



## Greenback

theres something you have to disable in bios but I cann't remember wjat


----------



## Jobotoo

I had to disable the fan in the bios, so as not to get the error.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Cheers fellas, yeah it was in Hardware Monitor, had to disable it.

Just got crysis 2 installed and patched to 1.9 downloading the DX11 Upgrade gear now so will prob have a play then do some OC'ing over the weekend with pic and performance results, been too long since i gamed what with all the ****e have had to deal with with this rig lol


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


Cheers fellas, yeah it was in Hardware Monitor, had to disable it.

Just got crysis 2 installed and patched to 1.9 downloading the DX11 Upgrade gear now so will prob have a play then do some OC'ing over the weekend with pic and performance results, been too long since i gamed what with all the ****e have had to deal with with this rig lol


With a 6950, you may want to turn down Tessalation a bit in CCC if FPS drop too low at times.


----------



## thrasherht

I just changed out my fans on my radiator. I got some xigmatek fans and I switch my radiator to intake from the top of the case now, dropped my temps probably a good 5c or so. I also put two of the old rasa stock fans on top to do push pull on two of the fans.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Aw man! My new Res/Pump is in town and they tried to deliver it, but because of me living in a stupid apartment with a stupid paging system, they couldn't deliver it! Now I need Dazhong to update the info with the buzzcode and stuff and hopefully I should have it by tomorrow.


----------



## Frontsidebus

Right chaps. Just installed my RS240 kit. Just want to see if my temps are what they are supposed to be. I'm running a mild OC of 4ghz at 1.2v and im seeing 32c idle and 49'c under Prime95. Room temp is about 21'c. I'm running two Akasa Apache fans in a pull configuration. I might get a drop of a couple of degrees as I used AS5 that likes to cure a bit.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Sounds about right to me. Also, if you use offset for voltage instead of setting a constant voltage in the BIOS while OC'ing, you can pretty much drop your idle temps to ambient, plus it just saves energy in general which is always a good thing.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Question, how did you guys go about filling your res/pump?

I usually fill it up, let it drain into the tubes, fill it again and keep doing so until it no longer flows into the tubes, then I cap the res and tilt my computer all around and if more water flows out, I fill the res again. Once I've done this and no more water will flow out on it's own, I power the pump on and prepare to fill it as it's running if it starts to get low.

Is this the correct/a good way of doing it? Or could this cause problems or something that I'm not seeing or know about?


----------



## Greenback

The normal way as far as I know is fill the res as you do then turn pump on for a couple secs>turn off refill res.rinse repeat till no more air and res is full, but as long as pump is always submerged you are fine


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus*


Right chaps. Just installed my RS240 kit. Just want to see if my temps are what they are supposed to be. I'm running a mild OC of 4ghz at 1.2v and im seeing 32c idle and 49'c under Prime95. Room temp is about 21'c. I'm running two Akasa Apache fans in a pull configuration. I might get a drop of a couple of degrees as I used AS5 that likes to cure a bit.

Thanks in advance!











very sexy, I would say there is a small amount of work to be done for cable management, but looks good otherwise. Love the look of your tubing. Nice and clear.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14285639*
> The normal way as far as I know is fill the res as you do then turn pump on for a couple secs>turn off refill res.rinse repeat till no more air and res is full, but as long as pump is always submerged you are fine


Exactly what I do. Thanks for saving me the trouble of typing it out lol.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow;14285424*
> Question, how did you guys go about filling your res/pump?
> 
> I usually fill it up, let it drain into the tubes, fill it again and keep doing so until it no longer flows into the tubes, then I cap the res and tilt my computer all around and if more water flows out, I fill the res again. Once I've done this and no more water will flow out on it's own, I power the pump on and prepare to fill it as it's running if it starts to get low.
> 
> Is this the correct/a good way of doing it? Or could this cause problems or something that I'm not seeing or know about?


I fill the res initially, turn on the pump and then just keep filling and filling until the water level stabilises. You need quick reactions and a lot of water for that though, lol. My loop took almost 3L of water,









Anyhow, I don't have a RASA kit, that was just a general answer, so I'll leave now.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle;14286143*
> I fill the res initially, turn on the pump and then just keep filling and filling until the water level stabilises. You need quick reactions and a lot of water for that though, lol. My loop took almost 3L of water,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I don't have a RASA kit, that was just a general answer, so I'll leave now.


This. Make sure you don't get to generous with the water and over fill the res.


----------



## Kahbrohn

I find these bottles to be VERY helpful.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14286643*
> I find these bottles to be VERY helpful.


I have the large one. Mine has a restrictor tip which I need to remove to get it to fill faster. Other than that, they work pretty well.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14286913*
> I have the large one. Mine has a restrictor tip which I need to remove to get it to fill faster. Other than that, they work pretty well.


Scissors... the ultimate restrictor remover! That's what I did.


----------



## Frontsidebus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14285722*
> very sexy, I would say there is a small amount of work to be done for cable management, but looks good otherwise. Love the look of your tubing. Nice and clear.


Cheers.








Yes I could tidy it up a bit and I will when I can be bothered. I'd not noticed the wire for the temp probe in the exhaust of the VGA hanging down. Fixed now.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

How do I ensure my radiator is full of water? I can't tell by shaking the case if it is or not. But, with the pump off all tubes remain full of water and when I shake the case with the pump on and off, no more big gushes of air seem to come out.

The Radiator is an Rx360 and it's mounted on the top of my 800D.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow;14288426*
> How do I ensure my radiator is full of water? I can't tell by shaking the case if it is or not. But, with the pump off all tubes remain full of water and when I shake the case with the pump on and off, no more big gushes of air seem to come out.
> 
> The Radiator is an Rx360 and it's mounted on the top of my 800D.


If it has pockets of air still, you usually hear gurgling from the rad. I just tilt the case every now and then just to see if any air bubbles come out, but its nothing really to worry too much about unless you're having temp issues. The air generally works its way out over time.


----------



## golfergolfer

So i have ordered one of these kits and i was just wondering about where to put the rad. I have a CM 690 Advanced II and i would like to put the rad on the bottom where it can fit but i dont know if the airflow would work very well doing this... So if i have to put it on the top i am wondering will it fit on the top of my case with a push/pull set up? i would be able to put the fans on the top then the rad on the inside but would i be able to put another pair of fans between my mobo and rad? this is a very specific case and mobo question so i anyone is able to answer this that would be great!!! my mobo is in my sig below. thanks in advance for you help


----------



## Nude_Lewd_Man

I filled my loop when it was off and just kept moving the rad to get the air to flow out, and bent the tubes to get the air to the highest point in the loop - which, in the angle I'd tilted the case back, was the pump/res......then topped it up, put the cap on and fired it up for a minute or two (just into the BIOS) before shutting down and topping up...

Job done.


----------



## Frontsidebus

Oh and a word of warning. If you have an Asus P8Z68 mobo and a Corsair 600T case you will have to remove some of the plastic flange on the auxiliary 12v plugs. The radiator will not fit otherwise.


----------



## Dradien

Got my kit and installed it. Dear god, this thing performs compared to my old air cooler so much, I don't think I'm ever going back...

Installation was pretty painless, and I only had one small leak due to not tightening down one barb enough. After I did that, it was easy sailing. Filling and bleeding my res wasn't painful at all, and it seems I got all the air bubbles that I could get out within the first day, but still ******* with it every so often. Only problem is that I was excited-and tired- when I put it all together, so it looks like absolute ****, so I need to redo the wiring. Nothing I can do about the tubing sadly, as the 360 rad is on the back of the case and running the tubing across the whole case is kind of ugly.

Anyway, like I said, it was painless as hell, the pump is SILENT, and the only way I know it is running is the water in the res is slightly waving around, and if I put my hand on the the res, I feel a slight vibration. Over all, my first foray into watercooling has been awesome, and now I want to water cool my motherboard and videocard. It's a sickness I tell ya!

As an aside, anyone selling/have an extra 6950/70 reference design water block? Kind of brokeish now, and cannot afford one new (I know, sad, but priorities are priorities). Thanks. I'll chuck up a picture in a few hours when I have a damn camera...


----------



## anubis1127

My rs240 kit is on the fed-ex truck for delivery today!


----------



## MTDEW

I ordered the RS360 Kit from frozencpu.com yesterday.

I did that because in another forum a guy mentioned the RX360 RAD wouldn't fit in my Haf X case and not to worry since the RX would not perform any better than the RS anyway.

After reading this thread and other forums, it turns out The RX radiator will fit my case.(barely, push fans will be a tight fit)

And after reading this thread, i'm thinking i should have gotten the RX360 kit.

Sooo, since its not frozencpu.com's fault, i ordered the wrong kit, i do not feel right returning it. (it is my mistake, not theirs)

The link in the sticky FAQ makes no mention if they use same cpu block,pump etc... it just says the rs240 and rs360 use all the same except rad, but no such comparison under the RX360 vs RS360 kits.

What i need to know now is if the radiator is the only difference between the two kits and i can just order the RX360 radiator and im good to go?

Or Does the RS360 kit also use the older cpu block I've read about also?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MTDEW*


I ordered the RS360 Kit from frozencpu.com yesterday.

I did that because in another forum a guy mentioned the RX360 RAD wouldn't fit in my Haf X case and not to worry since the RX would not perform any better than the RS anyway.

After reading this thread and other forums, it turns out The RX radiator will fit my case.(barely, push fans will be a tight fit)

And after reading this thread, i'm thinking i should have gotten the RX360 kit.

Sooo, since its not frozencpu.com's fault, i ordered the wrong kit, i do not feel right returning it. (it is my mistake, not theirs)

What i need to know now is if the radiator is the only difference between the two kits and i can just order the RX360 radiator?

Or does the RS360 kit also use the older cpu block I've read about also?


Im pretty sure the only difference in the kits is the Rad, everything else is exactly the same.


----------



## infected rat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MTDEW*


What i need to know now is if the radiator is the only difference between the two kits and i can just order the RX360 radiator and im good to go?


Yes the RS360 and RX360 kit both use the same XSPC X20 750 pump/res, and have the same XSPC Rasa Black CPU block. If you want to upgrade to the thicker radiator you can do so with no problems. The same pump/res also powers the RX480 kits.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anubis1127*


My rs240 kit is on the fed-ex truck for delivery today!


They have it marked Delivered on the tracking page, yet it is not at my house. I stayed home from work today to make sure they didn't leave it outside.

I called Fed-Ex, and they told me it was delivered to the front door, I told the lady I'm calling you from my front porch, I can assure you it was not delivered. Now I'm waiting for a call back, she had to get a hold of local dispatch.

Another shining example of how horrible Fed-Ex is, they hire drivers that can't even deliver to a street address. I live on the only street with that name in this town too.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anubis1127*


They have it marked Delivered on the tracking page, yet it is not at my house. I stayed home from work today to make sure they didn't leave it outside.

I called Fed-Ex, and they told me it was delivered to the front door, I told the lady I'm calling you from my front porch, I can assure you it was not delivered. Now I'm waiting for a call back, she had to get a hold of local dispatch.

Another shining example of how horrible Fed-Ex is, they hire drivers that can't even deliver to a street address. I live on the only street with that name in this town too.


Its no different with UPS or USPS. I had USPS mark my package delivered, yet it was on the shelf at the post office when I went there the next day. Even the post man behind the counter helping me was trying to figure WTH the delivery person did with my package. Hope you get it sorted out.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Its no different with UPS or USPS. I had USPS mark my package delivered, yet it was on the shelf at the post office when I went there the next day. Even the post man behind the counter helping me was trying to figure WTH the delivery person did with my package. Hope you get it sorted out.


Well they at least picked it back up from the incorrect address, but I may not get it until tomorrow now. As long as somebody else doesn't come home to my kit, I guess it'll be OK.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anubis1127*


Well they at least picked it back up from the incorrect address, but I may not get it until tomorrow now. As long as somebody else doesn't come home to my kit, I guess it'll be OK.


If your Fedex hub is close by, you can pick it up when the driver gets back or request to have it held at the Fedex hub and you can pick it up. Not sure how close you are to them though.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14295385*
> If your Fedex hub is close by, you can pick it up when the driver gets back or request to have it held at the Fedex hub and you can pick it up. Not sure how close you are to them though.


Yey, the driver dropped it off today, now I just have to fit it in my old p180..I may need to go buy a dremel..


----------



## Soul.

Woot! Finally got my RX360 Kit up and running, after a few mods and stuff its all working smoothly. I thought I'd share some pics:



















Also, the temps are really wicked for me, I'm sitting at 30C under load, but to be fair the X2 doesn't generate that much heat... gotta upgrade soon!


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14294233*
> Yes the RS360 and RX360 kit both use the same XSPC X20 750 pump/res, and have the same XSPC Rasa Black CPU block. If you want to upgrade to the thicker radiator you can do so with no problems. The same pump/res also powers the RX480 kits.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14294139*
> Im pretty sure the only difference in the kits is the Rad, everything else is exactly the same.


Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW;14298219*
> Thanks for the help guys.


if you are only doing a cpu loop the rs360 will be fine anyway


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soul.;14297857*
> Woot! Finally got my RX360 Kit up and running, after a few mods and stuff its all working smoothly. I thought I'd share some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the temps are really wicked for me, I'm sitting at 30C under load, but to be fair the X2 doesn't generate that much heat... gotta upgrade soon!


Congrats! I love mine too.


----------



## Nude_Lewd_Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14294784*
> Its no different with UPS or USPS. I had USPS mark my package delivered, yet it was on the shelf at the post office when I went there the next day. Even the post man behind the counter helping me was trying to figure WTH the delivery person did with my package. Hope you get it sorted out.


I had the same thoughts... I had shipped a part out for one of our customers (from work) only to find that the driver picked it up and took it back home before going to deliver it to site - it was scheduled for 10:30 the day after it was put through....

An hour or two before it was due for delivery, our shipping partner called to say that the driver had somehow lost the power supply....







Luckily, I pointed out that it was their fault, and that they needed to cover not just the price of the part (about $550 IIRC) but also the delivery (within 4 hours!) from another depot.... (I then sent an e-mail to our logistics manager, and both of my bosses, to ensure that they were aware of what had happened and that we didn't get charged for anything we shouldn't have been.....)

All shipping/delivery companies can (and do) have the occasional issue with getting schtuffs out correctly.....


----------



## RSharpe

I have a question for you XSPC experts in here...

How well would a RX360 radiator handle an i7 920 overclocked at 4.0GHz, and 2 x GTX580 SLI running at stock clocks. I'm wondering if it may exceed the cooling capacity of the radiator.

Thanks.


----------



## Agenesis

XSPC support disgusts me.

/rant
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe;14298888*
> I have a question for you XSPC experts in here...
> 
> How well would a RX360 radiator handle an i7 920 overclocked at 4.0GHz, and 2 x GTX580 SLI running at stock clocks. I'm wondering if it may exceed the cooling capacity of the radiator.
> 
> Thanks.


User wermad had a single RX360 on a 950 and 3 470s. You'll be fine.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soul.;14297857*
> Woot! Finally got my RX360 Kit up and running, after a few mods and stuff its all working smoothly. I thought I'd share some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the temps are really wicked for me, I'm sitting at 30C under load, but to be fair the X2 doesn't generate that much heat... gotta upgrade soon![/QUOTE]
> 
> It almost looks like you've coated the tubing in that heat-shrink material. I forget the proper term for it.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14299153*
> It almost looks like you've coated the tubing in that heat-shrink material. I forget the proper term for it.


I was gonna say... did he sleeve the tubing also?


----------



## Mystic5hadow

It looks like reinforced tubing you can buy from Home Depot. It looks nice!

Anyways, got my Pump/Res in yesterday (would have gotten it a day earlier had I included my buzzcode for my apartment, hell yeah for two days shipping from Hong Kong! XSPC was quick and helpful.) and it's been installed and running for about 24 hours now with no issues! Now to manage the wires in the back of my case, then hook up my new fan controller and NZXT LED lights and I'm good to go!

I'll try to post some pics, but I sold my iPhone 4, which was my camera, specifically to get this kit and some other stuff, so I need to find my old camera or wait for my Dad and his D90 to get back from California next Thursday. Though, by that point hopefully my Black Primoflex tubing and UV Blue coils Quad adapter (for drain line and temp sensor) will have arrived, so everything will look completely different from how it does now anyways.

Oh yeah, I agree with the consensus that this is a sickness. I haven't even checked temps yet and I already want to upgrade and put my 470 (or wait and get two 570's) underwater.

Water Cooling, TAKE MY MONEY!


----------



## Mesmero

Noob question, I accidentally screwed together a compression fitting and now it won't come loose. Am I screwed?


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14299374*
> I was gonna say... did he sleeve the tubing also?


Yeah I sleeved the tubes, unfortunately my phone doesn't take good pictures, but it looks sick in real life.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Soul.*


Yeah I sleeved the tubes, unfortunately my phone doesn't take good pictures, but it looks sick in real life.


Yeah... I have seen that done before and it DOES look nice. Really can't appreciate it there but I can certainly imagine it. Good job... Wish I personally had your skill to do that kind of work.


----------



## Soul.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Yeah... I have seen that done before and it DOES look nice. Really can't appreciate it there but I can certainly imagine it. Good job... Wish I personally had your skill to do that kind of work.


Thanks! It's not too hard to get it done, you just need some patience to fiddle with the sleeves, and then they're pretty easy to work with!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RSharpe*


I have a question for you XSPC experts in here...

How well would a RX360 radiator handle an i7 920 overclocked at 4.0GHz, and 2 x GTX580 SLI running at stock clocks. I'm wondering if it may exceed the cooling capacity of the radiator.

Thanks.


Works fine, but don't add anything else. Getting a DDC or D5 pump would be the next thing to change. I wouldn't want a X20 pump to be responsible for all those components in the long term. Add some GT AP-15 fans would be nice also.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


Noob question, I accidentally screwed together a compression fitting and now it won't come loose. Am I screwed?


You mean you screwed the ring onto the nipple base without a tube installed and its stuck now? Anyways, you just need to grip the top ring and bottom with pliers (covered with a rag to prevent scratching them) and un-screw them. This also happens when you have tubing installed also, but it generally means you over tightened it.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RSharpe*


I have a question for you XSPC experts in here...

How well would a RX360 radiator handle an i7 920 overclocked at 4.0GHz, and 2 x GTX580 SLI running at stock clocks. I'm wondering if it may exceed the cooling capacity of the radiator.

Thanks.



Here is a link of a guy with triple GTX580s, a 2600K with only one RX360 rad and hes getting great temps, but he has a better pump and reservoir =>

http://75.126.99.220/showthread.php?t=1603202


----------



## Mesmero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14300591*
> You mean you screwed the ring onto the nipple base without a tube installed and its stuck now? Anyways, you just need to grip the top ring and bottom with pliers (covered with a rag to prevent scratching them) and un-screw them. This also happens when you have tubing installed also, but it generally means you over tightened it.


Thx, thought i was stuck.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


Here is a link of a guy with triple GTX580s, a 2600K with only one RX360 rad and hes getting great temps, but he has a better pump and reservoir =>

http://75.126.99.220/showthread.php?t=1603202


An I7 950 dumps more heat than a 2600K, and that setup in the link is using a DDC pump, like I was suggesting. I have ran a single RX360 with a I7 860 OCed, with a 6990 and 6970 with DDC pump and 2K rpm fans, but it will be on the warm side while gaming for sure. I wouldn't overclock the GPUs much at all on that kind of setup.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Well, I fired up my computer and all is working well. My idle is usually a degree or three above ambient and my load, at 4.8GHz with 1.36v is maxing out at 69c on the highest core, 65c or less on the other three while running Small FFT's in Prime95.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow*


Well, I fired up my computer and all is working well. My idle is usually a degree or three above ambient and my load, at 4.8GHz with 1.36v is maxing out at 69c on the highest core, 65c or less on the other three while running Small FFT's in Prime95.


I think that's a bit warm IMO. What TIM did you use and how many turns on the mounting thumbscrews for the RASA CPU block? I believe it should be more in the high 50s to low 60s for a CPU only loop.


----------



## shineon2011

Has any body ran their rasa kit off of sata port instead of molex? Is it safe? Can I use one of these:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...roducts_id=205

I want to make sure that my power supply will handle one rail with sata port. Basically my sata cable will run SSD, HDD and rasa pump. Any suggestions?


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I think that's a bit warm IMO. What TIM did you use and how many turns on the mounting thumbscrews for the RASA CPU block? I believe it should be more in the high 50s to low 60s for a CPU only loop.


I used MX-4. 
Honestly, I agree with you, but my CPU has always ran a fair bit hotter than others, I believe it's because the center of the CPU's heat spread may be a bit higher than the rest, based on the way the TIM spreads, so kind of like a microscopic hill in the center of my CPU, meaning less contact with the cores or something. I'd lap it, but I don't want to void my warranty. No matter what I've done, I always get higher temps than most other people at same clocks and voltages.

I tightened the block down as tight as I could with my hands without forcing it after screwing in the the bolts/screws with a screwdriver initially, it's on nice and tight as it should be.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shineon2011*


Has any body ran their rasa kit off of sata port instead of molex? Is it safe? Can I use one of these:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...roducts_id=205

I want to make sure that my power supply will handle one rail with sata port. Basically my sata cable will run SSD, HDD and rasa pump. Any suggestions?


Yes, a SATA to Molex connector will work, since its basically the same power delivery. Also, the link you posted is for heat shrink.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow*


I used MX-4. 
Honestly, I agree with you, but my CPU has always ran a fair bit hotter than others, I believe it's because the center of the CPU's heat spread may be a bit higher than the rest, based on the way the TIM spreads, so kind of like a microscopic hill in the center of my CPU, meaning less contact with the cores or something. I'd lap it, but I don't want to void my warranty. No matter what I've done, I always get higher temps than most other people at same clocks and voltages.

I tightened the block down as tight as I could with my hands without forcing it after screwing in the the bolts/screws with a screwdriver initially, it's on nice and tight as it should be.


I only use 2-3 turns on the thumbscrews equally. Also, make sure you have the pump flow output going into the "In" port on the RASA block, not "out". I had someone on here actually get it reversed.


----------



## shineon2011

Thx dub


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I only use 2-3 turns on the thumbscrews equally. Also, make sure you have the pump flow output going into the "In" port on the RASA block, not "out". I had someone on here actually get it reversed.


I have my CPU output to pump input and pump output to rad, is this not good then?

Cheers


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


I have my CPU output to pump input and pump output to rad, is this not good then?

Cheers


Yes, that's fine. As long as the flow is going into the "In" port on the the RASA block, its correct.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Yes, that's fine. As long as the flow is going into the "In" port on the the RASA block, its correct.


Oh rite, had me worried for a min thought I got it wrong. I'll throw a pic up of my rig after work. What kinda temps would you expect or is common for my setup. Currently only CPU in this loop, I'm running a 930 at stock and am getting about 45-46c load prime95 small ffts

Cheers


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


Oh rite, had me worried for a min thought I got it wrong. I'll throw a pic up of my rig after work. What kinda temps would you expect or is common for my setup. Currently only CPU in this loop, I'm running a 930 at stock and am getting about 45-46c load prime95 small ffts

Cheers


That sounds fine for stock. OCed should be in the 50s I believe. When you get to your max stable overclock speed with raised CPU voltage, it will really go up under full load.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


That sounds fine for stock. OCed should be in the 50s I believe. When you get to your max stable overclock speed with raised CPU voltage, it will really go up under full load.


I'll prob start playing this afternoon after work with the overclocking, I had a little play the other day, 1.3v Vcore everything else on auto CPU @ 4Ghz think it hit about 65c thought it was a bit high!? I may end up re seating the block.


----------



## Nude_Lewd_Man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


I have my CPU output to pump input and pump output to rad, is this not good then?

Cheers


Personally, I went with pump output --> CPU in -- CPU out --> rad --> res/pump in...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


That sounds fine for stock. OCed should be in the 50s I believe. When you get to your max stable overclock speed with raised CPU voltage, it will really go up under full load.


I haven't checked under water yet, but on air (as per what is still showing in sig rig) in W7 WKS04 was seeing early 80s *C, once I get a Linux (running Lucid 10.04 now) temp thing, then I'll be able to see what it is doing now.........but I have no idea what the 'idle' would be, as it is always Folding @ 100% on all cores/threads anyway...


----------



## Frontsidebus

The noise of my 6970 under load is killing me. Would an RS240 cope with it added to the loop or would it need another rad. Only got room for another RS120.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Well, I upped my CPU to 5GHz with 1.42v and my temperatures have barely moved. Idle is the same and load went up about two degrees.

Very impressive, considering when I did this on my Antec Kuhler 920, my temps nearly shot up 15c higher on load compared to my Rasa kit.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Question:

A local enthusiast has asked me my opinion on water cooling. He wanted to get the RS360 kit (CPU loop only). He's a college student and strapped for cash so $10-20 makes a big difference for him.

I have experience with the RS360 and noticed last week when the ambient temps shot up past the 90*F (32*C) mark that my own idle temp went from an average of 35*C (at about 28-29*C ambient) up to about 39-40*C. When I turn the AC on at night my temps go back down really fast so I know it's the ambient temps messing with my numbers and not my rad being dirty or such.

Should I suggest this enthusiast to get the RX360 instead to help offset the summer heat a bit better?


----------



## Draggin

The Rs is fine for a college student.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nude_Lewd_Man*


Personally, I went with pump output --> CPU in -- CPU out --> rad --> res/pump in...









I haven't checked under water yet, but on air (as per what is still showing in sig rig) in W7 WKS04 was seeing early 80s *C, once I get a Linux (running Lucid 10.04 now) temp thing, then I'll be able to see what it is doing now.........but I have no idea what the 'idle' would be, as it is always Folding @ 100% on all cores/threads anyway...










I opted for pump-rad cos I thought the water might pick up a little heat from the pump, whether its significant or not I didn't know.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


I opted for pump-rad cos I thought the water might pick up a little heat from the pump, whether its significant or not I didn't know.


other then res>pump the rest is down to personal choice, using the least amount of tubing and tidy


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hey guys, took a few pics of my rig







Hope you like, also any ideas for changing things are always welcome. I am thinking about getting a longer SATA cable, thought 50cm would be enough, also wanting a different fan controller, this one only provides 7w per channel.

Something else im wanting to be doing soon is Watercool one or both of my 6950s


----------



## Agenesis

Finally got my motherboard block in...had to build it with a pump that hums every 4 seconds because dazhong doesn't feel like responding...for the past week. Should have went custom instead, lol


















Yay for wasting $80 on a mcp655 and some more on a reservoir


----------



## Nethermir

hello, im still trying to decide if i want to go real wc and looks like the rasa 240 is probably cheaper than a corsair h100. how often do you need to do any maintenance on a rasa 240? my sig rig is my workhorse that i always need to use it and i want to minimize maintenance time.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14304952*
> Question:
> 
> A local enthusiast has asked me my opinion on water cooling. He wanted to get the RS360 kit (CPU loop only). He's a college student and strapped for cash so $10-20 makes a big difference for him.
> 
> I have experience with the RS360 and noticed last week when the ambient temps shot up past the 90*F (32*C) mark that my own idle temp went from an average of 35*C (at about 28-29*C ambient) up to about 39-40*C. When I turn the AC on at night my temps go back down really fast so I know it's the ambient temps messing with my numbers and not my rad being dirty or such.
> 
> Should I suggest this enthusiast to get the RX360 instead to help offset the summer heat a bit better?


I would.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


Finally got my motherboard block in...had to build it with a pump that hums every 4 seconds because dazhong doesn't feel like responding...for the past week. Should have went custom instead, lol


















Yay for wasting $80 on a mcp655 and some more on a reservoir










I found when dealing with Dazhong, it's best to harass him with emails. Doing so got me the replies I needed.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

And now for some pictures with everything installed!


----------



## Taylorsci

What tubing is that? ^^


----------



## Mystic5hadow

In mine? The basic clear 7/16 tubing that comes with the Rasa kits.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow*


In mine? The basic clear 7/16 tubing that comes with the Rasa kits.


Can I assume you've read some posts in this thread and know about the problems with the standard tubing?


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Ummm... Nope. I think there was mention of plasticizers or something? 
Shouldn't be anything too serious, right?


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Though I know loss of plasticizers can result in brittleness and whatnot in the plastic as well as discoloration or "milking" of the tubes, I shouldn't have to worry about my tubes cracking or something for at least 6 months right? If so, then I'll be fine, since I plan to replace the tubing in a month or two.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow*


Though I know loss of plasticizers can result in brittleness and whatnot in the plastic as well as discoloration or "milking" of the tubes, I shouldn't have to worry about my tubes cracking or something for at least 6 months right? If so, then I'll be fine, since I plan to replace the tubing in a month or two.


You will just end up with something like this. This was after 3 weeks for me.


----------



## AMOCO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


You will just end up with something like this. This was after 3 weeks for me.











It's because of the cheap tubing that comes with thie kit.I replaced my tubing when I bought my kit with PrimoChill UV red tubing.


----------



## Mesmero

I'm having a weird issue with my rasa kit I'm not exactly sure what it is, my temps idle on a 2500k at 56c, 4.8ghz and 1.38v which isn't to bad given the weather. However as soon as I fire up prime my temps instantly hit 96c or higher, which causes me to shut it off immediately. I've checked the tubing and it's not kinking at all. I used HW monitor to track temps. If anyone has any ideas as to what might be going on any insight is appreciated. O almost forgot the board is an Asus Gene-Z and the kit is an RX360.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMOCO*


It's because of the cheap tubing that comes with thie kit.I replaced my tubing when I bought my kit with PrimoChill UV red tubing.


Yea I know ive change my set up sense then


















Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


I'm having a weird issue with my rasa kit I'm not exactly sure what it is, my temps idle on a 2500k at 56c, 4.8ghz and 1.38v which isn't to bad given the weather. However as soon as I fire up prime my temps instantly hit 96c or higher, which causes me to shut it off immediately. I've checked the tubing and it's not kinking at all. I used HW monitor to track temps. If anyone has any ideas as to what might be going on any insight is appreciated. O almost forgot the board is an Asus Gene-Z and the kit is an RX360.


First thing that comes to mind is did you take the the plastic cover off the bottom of the cpu block? What tim did you use? Did you tighen down the cpu block?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


I'm having a weird issue with my rasa kit I'm not exactly sure what it is, my temps idle on a 2500k at 56c, 4.8ghz and 1.38v which isn't to bad given the weather. However as soon as I fire up prime my temps instantly hit 96c or higher, which causes me to shut it off immediately. I've checked the tubing and it's not kinking at all. I used HW monitor to track temps. If anyone has any ideas as to what might be going on any insight is appreciated. O almost forgot the board is an Asus Gene-Z and the kit is an RX360.


Did you take the plastic film off the bottom of the cpu block?

*edit* ninjdd which is weird since mine showed up in live first


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


You will just end up with something like this. This was after 3 weeks for me.











Wow, three weeks? That's terrible. Hopefully mine doesn't do that that fast.


----------



## Mesmero

Yes i took the plastic off and used the stock TIM they provided in a rice grain amount. I've tightened the CPU block to the point I am worried I might crash through the back of my case lol. The pump however is very silent and there's not much sound or movement as far as I can tell. Just a light vibration and a faint hum in the reservoir that you have to have your ear pressed to it to notice. I assume the pumps ok however the water in my loop doesn't seem to move. I'm Using primochill LRT Blue tubing so it's kinda hard to tell whats going on. O and on stock clocks prime 95 ran at a max of 60c not sure how useful that is.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


Yes i took the plastic off and used the stock TIM they provided in a rice grain amount. I've tightened the CPU block to the point I am worried I might crash through the back of my case lol. The pump however is very silent and there's not much sound or movement as far as I can tell just a light vibration and a faint hum that you have to have your ear pressed to it to notice.


The supplied tim isn't very good, but it's not that bad. Take the block off and check to see how it spread. Sometimes you need more tim than a rice grain.

You're lucky you got a quiet pump the first time, many people don't. It's probably working fine, do you have any type of flow indicator?


----------



## Mesmero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


The supplied tim isn't very good, but it's not that bad. Take the block off and check to see how it spread. Sometimes you need more tim than a rice grain.

You're lucky you got a quiet pump the first time, many people don't. It's probably working fine, do you have any type of flow indicator?


Afraid not, I'll attempt a re-seat and apply some more TIM.


----------



## infected rat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


I assume the pumps ok however the water in my loop doesn't seem to move.


When you filled the loop I assume you were turning the pump on and off and watching it move the water thus proving the pump works?


----------



## Mesmero

Yeah it drained the reservoir a bit and I added more water to fill the loop. Then I bled for Air for about 10min.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mesmero*


Yeah it drained the reservoir a bit and I added more water to fill the loop. Then I bled for Air for about 10min.


You might have an air bubble trapped in the cpu block if you have not had the loop together for long. Try rotating the case, put it on the left side for a half hour, put it on the right side for a half hour.


----------



## Mesmero

Ok I'll try that also.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hey guys, done some overclocking.

Running 4200Mhz with HT off @ 1.31250v Vcore



How do those temps look? This is with HT off and Load Line Calibration Enabled.

You need to look at Max Temp for temps during the test.


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14316009*
> Hey guys, done some overclocking.
> 
> Running 4200Mhz with HT off @ 1.31250v Vcore
> 
> How do those temps look? This is with HT off and Load Line Calibration Enabled.


Looks fine. My temps and setup are almost identical to yours except for my cooling overhead (larger radiator).

I idle at around the same temps (25-35 C) and peak around 45-55 C depending on ambients. My vcore is lower though and I use a ek cpu block.

what fans are you using on your radiator?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14316240*
> Looks fine. My temps and setup are almost identical to yours except for my cooling overhead (larger radiator).
> 
> I idle at around the same temps (25-35 C) and peak around 45-55 C depending on ambients. My vcore is lower though and I use a ek cpu block.
> 
> what fans are you using on your radiator?


Im using Yate Loon D12SH fans, 3 in Pull and the other 3 are in the front of my Antec 1200, really need to build a shroud as i lose some air down the sides of the rad.

I was a bit concerned, thought temps might have been a little better, especially as i've got HT turned off.


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14316265*
> Im using Yate Loon D12SH fans, 3 in Pull and the other 3 are in the front of my Antec 1200, really need to build a shroud as i lose some air down the sides of the rad.
> 
> I was a bit concerned, thought temps might have been a little better, especially as i've got HT turned off.


HT does nothing for temps just turn it back on. The only thing that will help with temps are C-States or P-States (see my sig).

Shroud would be a good idea plus it would help with noise and air isolation.

Your temps look OK.


----------



## solar0987

what is the warranty on the kit ive had mine since feburary and the pump went out.


----------



## SQLinsert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14316702*
> what is the warranty on the kit ive had mine since feburary and the pump went out.


contact

usually reply fast but it's weekend there


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQLinsert;14316670*
> HT does nothing for temps just turn it back on. The only thing that will help with temps are C-States or P-States (see my sig).
> 
> Shroud would be a good idea plus it would help with noise and air isolation.
> 
> Your temps look OK.


Really, i thought HT increased temps by 5-10C? Isn't more Vcore usually needed when its enabled?

Im gonna have a look at that C State and P State link you've got there.

Done some more OC'ing in the meantime


----------



## anubis1127

I just installed my RS240 kit with the CPU block. I originally installed it with a swiftech mcw80 gpu block, but I found the bracket that came with it was the wrong one. There is also an upgrade swiftech can can do to the mcw80 for better flow, I'm going to send them mine because I've heard this pump isn't the best.

On my i7 870 HT on w/ 1.329V (1.3625 in bios LLC enabled) @ 4Ghz with the stock TIM it got up to 70C on the hottest core after doing a quick IBT, very high, 8 thread test.

I found some AS5 so I decided to try that, same OC, same IBT settings, and CPU only got up to 66C on the hottest core. I would say the AS5 I had sitting around was better than the stock TIM, I'll see if it improves further after the "cure" time.



So far that is down nearly 10C from my stock h50. If I remember correct that got up to 76C with these OC settings.

I'll post a pic after I reboot, I need to test a GPU I sold.


----------



## Mesmero

UPDATE: Reseated and applied some AS5 and everything's fine now, sitting at 67c max temp on an hr of prime. 110F here so that's good enough for me.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mesmero;14320939*
> UPDATE: Reseated and applied some AS5 and everything's fine now, sitting at 67c max temp on an hr of prime. 110F here so that's good enough for me.


Nice, glad you got it sorted out.

pic of mine installed:



fixed picture link


----------



## jcde7ago

I am about to pull the trigger on a 590 block + an RX120...

You guys think the standard Rasa 750 pump will be enough for the RX360 + RX120 + CPU + GPU block? Will temps be decent still?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jcde7ago*


I am about to pull the trigger on a 590 block + an RX120...

You guys think the standard Rasa 750 pump will be enough for the RX360 + RX120 + CPU + GPU block? Will temps be decent still?


Yes


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jcde7ago*


I am about to pull the trigger on a 590 block + an RX120...

You guys think the standard Rasa 750 pump will be enough for the RX360 + RX120 + CPU + GPU block? Will temps be decent still?


Im running RX360 + RX120 + CPU with a 6990 block, Works just fine


----------



## Boyboyd

OK so i've turned off my stock fans that came with my RASA kit, i've just got the almost-silent AP-15s running now (5 of them).

It's so quiet I can hear the vibrations of the pump quite well. Anyone got any tips on how to minimise it? I was going to pack some kitchen paper around the res housing but i can't get much in there, so i doubt it would help.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14330515*
> OK so i've turned off my stock fans that came with my RASA kit, i've just got the almost-silent AP-15s running now (5 of them).
> 
> It's so quiet I can hear the vibrations of the pump quite well. Anyone got any tips on how to minimise it? I was going to pack some kitchen paper around the res housing but i can't get much in there, so i doubt it would help.


Are you sure your pump isn't bad? My computer is dead silent also (until the psu fan kicks up) and I can't hear the pump at all.


----------



## Boyboyd

I'm pretty certain it's ok. It's never been a problem before. I think i'm just noticing it because the rest is so quiet, and it's a vibratey thing screwed into a metal thing.


----------



## anubis1127

I just lowered my max temp almost 4C just by adding some CM R4's I had sitting around to do push/pull on my RS240. So far I'm very pleased w/ this kit.


----------



## Garanthor

anubis1127 said:


> I just lowered my max temp almost 4C just by adding some CM R4's I had sitting around to do push/pull on my RS240. So far I'm very pleased w/ this kit.[/QUOTE
> 
> Update your sig. I also went from an H50 after I had done everything I could to it. Wish I had bought this kit the first time. Would have saved me about $100.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Update your sig. I also went from an H50 after I had done everything I could to it. Wish I had bought this kit the first time. Would have saved me about $100.










Done. Yeah, I was thinking about modding the h50, but after looking at what I was going to spend on it, I just opted for the XSPC kit. I'll probably try to sell the h50, or possibly return it, I'm not sure if BB will take it back since they are trying to get rid of them. I only bought it last friday.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Lol, you did the same thing as me only I got an Antec 920. Had it for about a week then decided I wanted to get a real WC loop. Unfortunately the place I bought it from doesn't do returns on water cooling products, so my 920 is sitting there in brand new condition and I'm out $70


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow*


Lol, you did the same thing as me only I got an Antec 920. Had it for about a week then decided I wanted to get a real WC loop. Unfortunately the place I bought it from doesn't do returns on water cooling products, so my 920 is sitting there in brand new condition and I'm out $70










When you get 35 rep you can sell it on the marketplace here







or you could watch the wanted section for people that want a 920.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

That's what I was going to do until I realized I needed 35 rep, which will probably take a while. I see lots of people who have been around for years here yet barely have 35 rep even with all their posts









I put it up on Kijiji though, since I live in Canada. Hopefully it'll sell.
Though I doubt it, as I've been trying to sell my G19 and RAT 7 for a while now.


----------



## Taylorsci

That's because those people are not helpful









It takes hardly any time to get 35 rep.


----------



## ezveedub

Reps don't take any time to build. I've been here for a few months and over 100


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Reps don't take any time to build. I've been here for a few months and over 100


You've been a busy bee. I'd like to get to 35 someday so I can start posting stuff in the market. I just need to be more active I guess.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127;14333967*
> You've been a busy bee. I'd like to get to 35 someday so I can start posting stuff in the market. I just need to be more active I guess.


ezveedub has been a very busy bee.







I don't have the same level of patience to constantly keep answering the same questions day after day







(i.e. can the pump run XXX, what order should I run this, is this noise normal, difference between RS and RX, what fan should I use etc etc). Don't get me wrong. Someone has to answer those posts, consequently ezveedub is very deserving of all the rep points given.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;14337697*
> ezveedub has been a very busy bee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the same level of patience to constantly keep answering the same questions day after day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i.e. can the pump run XXX, what order should I run this, is this noise normal, difference between RS and RX, what fan should I use etc etc). Don't get me wrong. Someone has to answer those posts, consequently ezveedub is very deserving of all the rep points given.


Nice, it is hard to use the search thread tool, it gets me everytime


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


ezveedub has been a very busy bee.







I don't have the same level of patience to constantly keep answering the same questions day after day







(i.e. can the pump run XXX, what order should I run this, is this noise normal, difference between RS and RX, what fan should I use etc etc). Don't get me wrong. Someone has to answer those posts, consequently ezveedub is very deserving of all the rep points given.










funny thing is most of the questions asked are answered in the FAQ at the start of this thread, just like the watercoolin forum if ppl used the search instead of starting a new thread the forum would have half as many pages if not more


----------



## mironccr345

Hello everyone, I wanted to know if a RX120 Rad. can fit in a Silverstone RV02. The rad would be placed on the top exhaust fan.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Hello everyone, I wanted to know if a RX120 Rad. can fit in a Silverstone RV02. The rad would be placed on the top exhaust fan.



RX120
Dimensions: 124x63x164mm (WxDxH)

don't forget to add 25mm per fan if you want p/p


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


RX120
Dimensions: 124x63x164mm (WxDxH)

don't forget to add 25mm per fan if you want p/p



Wow, the radiator is almost 2 1/2" thick! I don't know if i'll be able to do a P/P with that radiator. I'll have to do some measuring when I get home.

Thanks GreenBack


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


funny thing is most of the questions asked are answered in the FAQ at the start of this thread, just like the watercoolin forum if ppl used the search instead of starting a new thread the forum would have half as many pages if not more


Very true!


----------



## PCBung

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


OK so i've turned off my stock fans that came with my RASA kit, i've just got the almost-silent AP-15s running now (5 of them).

It's so quiet I can hear the vibrations of the pump quite well. Anyone got any tips on how to minimise it? I was going to pack some kitchen paper around the res housing but i can't get much in there, so i doubt it would help.


have you got them running at full speed?


----------



## Kahbrohn

RS360... CPU loop only... 3 x 120mm shrouded San Ace fans in pull... 40*C idle temp with ambient in the 32*C range normal or should I start considering looking at re-TIM'ing and such?

NOTE: The 40*C idle is at stock (3.2GHz) as well as at OC'ed (4.2GHz). When I turn on the AC at night, idle temp drops rapidly to about 33-34*C or so.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


RS360... CPU loop only... 3 x 120mm shrouded San Ace fans in pull... 40*C idle temp with ambient in the 32*C range normal or should I start considering looking at re-TIM'ing and such?

NOTE: The 40*C idle is at stock (3.2GHz) as well as at OC'ed (4.2GHz). When I turn on the AC at night, idle temp drops rapidly to about 33-34*C or so.



Uncle Kah,

Here's a snip of my current idle at ambient of 29-30c with C&Q enabled. Just hoping you can get an idea for comparison.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


Uncle Kah,

Here's a snip of my current idle at ambient of 29-30c with C&Q enabled. Just hoping you can get an idea for comparison.


I must be reading your post wrong. You are showing an idle temp of 22-24 C so your ambient can't be 29-30C unless you're living in an alternate universe where the laws of physics don't apply







(which I suppose could be possible...if that's the case.....welcome visitor).


----------



## Dradien

Ive had my temps drop a couple degrees delow ambient while idle a couple times. It does happen.

Sent from my Droid Incredible.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


Uncle Kah,

Here's a snip of my current idle at ambient of 29-30c with C&Q enabled. Just hoping you can get an idea for comparison.


Ok... so a delta of 4-5*C at idle and 13*C at load.

I'm about 8*C at idle and lord knows about load. I have restricted myself to just web browsing and downloading stuff. Have hit about 42*C like that. Haven't done any gaming so far but I am sure I would easily be in the mid 50's as it is.

I think I need to re-do my TIM. More so when I think about how my GPU's temp's have remained about the same. That's ok... ordered an RX360 so I will do some testing to compare. Have my 6 Yate Loon HS's on stand by as it is.

Thanks Sandman...


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradien;14345428*
> Ive had my temps drop a couple degrees delow ambient while idle a couple times. It does happen.
> 
> Sent from my Droid Incredible.


I could see that happening if your temp sensor was not working properly. Again, not physically possible to have temps lower than ambient with air cooling.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;14345042*
> I must be reading your post wrong. You are showing an idle temp of 22-24 C so your ambient can't be 29-30C unless you're living in an alternate universe where the laws of physics don't apply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (which I suppose could be possible...if that's the case.....welcome visitor).


You're reading it correctly. 22-24c core temp yes. (universe of Hexacore) And I assure you the ambient is also correct. You should give this a read for the whole explanation http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/931241-interesting-information-amd-about-1090t.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;14346261*
> not physically possible to have temps lower than ambient with air cooling.


I agree 100%. After reading the thread link above you'll see why hexacore users usually read the socket temp. Also you'll see the core temp is no where near as high as the socket temp (in my case). The socket is a sensor while the core temp is calculated. Even while the socket reads 55c max with a 24 hr run of prime95 cores never went above 37c.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14345557*
> Ok... so a delta of 4-5*C at idle and 13*C at load.
> 
> I'm about 8*C at idle and lord knows about load. I have restricted myself to just web browsing and downloading stuff. Have hit about 42*C like that. Haven't done any gaming so far but I am sure I would easily be in the mid 50's as it is.
> 
> I think I need to re-do my TIM. More so when I think about how my GPU's temp's have remained about the same. That's ok... ordered an RX360 so I will do some testing to compare. Have my 6 Yate Loon HS's on stand by as it is.
> 
> Thanks Sandman...


Hope it was of some help. RX360? I so far, have been able to avoid that WC bug and still stuck with only the OC varient. But now that you're going crazy... lol. Good luck!


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman;14347089*
> I agree 100%. After reading the thread link above you'll see why hexacore users usually read the socket temp. Also you'll see the core temp is no where near as high as the socket temp (in my case). The socket is a sensor while the core temp is calculated. Even while the socket reads 55c max with a 24 hr run of prime95 cores never went above 37c.


It doesn't matter what it's reading, it is catagorically wrong. There is no way any part of the chip can have a temperature lower than ambient, it is fundamentally impossible. It sounds like your core sensors are badly calibrated.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *infected rat*


It doesn't matter what it's reading, it is catagorically wrong. There is no way any part of the chip can have a temperature lower than ambient, it is fundamentally impossible. It sounds like your core sensors are badly calibrated.


I think it's possible. I use Aida64 and I get the same phenomenon. Remember, individual core temps are "calculated" and not "read". I guess we can effectively call it a mis-calculation.

My ambient temp was 80*F (27*C) when I took this screenie. This is a few mins. after shutting off my AC and opening all windows up.


----------



## Nude_Lewd_Man

Unless that particular part of the system is in a fridge, or other chiller, it cannot be physically possible for it to be *below* ambient...matching ambient is relatively unlikely, unless the machine is off, as just the heat produced by other items within the case would increase the ambient temperature within the case, bringing it above the room's ambient....









Mis-calculated or not, it isn't possible.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nude_Lewd_Man*


Unless that particular part of the system is in a fridge, or other chiller, it cannot be physically possible for it to be *below* ambient...matching ambient is relatively unlikely, unless the machine is off, as just the heat produced by other items within the case would increase the ambient temperature within the case, bringing it above the room's ambient....









Mis-calculated or not, it isn't possible.


Based on physics, no, it is not. That's not being argued and you are absolutely right. What's being pointed out is to NOT PAY ATTENTION to those individual core readings due to the mis-calculated temperatures. Pay attention to what is being monitored via a sensor itself - the CPU temp.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCBung*


have you got them running at full speed?


Yeah, i don't know how to run them at any other speed.

Part of me wishes i'd got AP-13s though. I hear they're 100% silent unless you ear is closer than 20cm away. They also go well with RX rads.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Yeah, i don't know how to run them at any other speed.

Part of me wishes i'd got AP-13s though. I hear they're 100% silent unless you ear is closer than 20cm away. They also go well with RX rads.


Just pick up a cheap fan controller and your wish will come true


----------



## spRICE

Lol everybody is agreeing that it is impossible to have sub-ambient temps so everybody should stop trying to prove everybody else wrong


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Pump took a dump Sunday night. Took me by surprise, all of a sudden my computer froze and shut off. Bios said it had reached 80Â°c and my fittings were hot as hell. New one should ne here soon. Think there's any chance something was damaged?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


Just pick up a cheap fan controller and your wish will come true










*facepalm* how did I not think of this?!?!


----------



## Dradien

So, all in all, what's the best way to gauge temps? The socket temps or the core temps? My on-die sensors are disabled when i unlock the 4th core, so if its better to go with the socket temps anyway, all the better for me.

Sent from my Droid Incredible.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz;14353637*
> Pump took a dump Sunday night. Took me by surprise, all of a sudden my computer froze and shut off. Bios said it had reached 80°c and my fittings were hot as hell. New one should ne here soon. Think there's any chance something was damaged?


Same thing happened to me but i was playing bfbc2. Talked to dazhong and he overnighted me one. Very good customer service a plus in my book!!!!!

And untill that little hickup, the kit has ran like a champ even in 103f weather!


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hey guys, done some more Overclocking.

Settings;

CPU - 4300Mhz HT On - Uncore 3280Mhz - DRAM 1640Mhz
Vcore - 1.41250v
QPI/DRAM - 1.25000v
DRAM - 1.65v

Temps are High, and im not sure its quite stable because as you can see from the screenie there was an app crash at some point in the test, even though IBT says stable.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


Hey guys, done some more Overclocking.

Settings;

CPU - 4300Mhz HT On - Uncore 3280Mhz - DRAM 1640Mhz
Vcore - 1.41250v
QPI/DRAM - 1.25000v
DRAM - 1.65v

Temps are High, and im not sure its quite stable because as you can see from the screenie there was an app crash at some point in the test, even though IBT says stable.


Regarding that crash, take a look at this and try following the suggestions there. If you have CCleaner or Revo Uninstaller (both free app's), then you can do the suggested registry cleaning. See if this helps. Also run your anti-malware software since this could also be a factor. Malwarebytes Anti-Malware has a free version but I have found the paid version every bit worth it.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Regarding that crash, take a look at this and try following the suggestions there. If you have CCleaner or Revo Uninstaller (both free app's), then you can do the suggested registry cleaning. See if this helps. Also run your anti-malware software since this could also be a factor. Malwarebytes Anti-Malware has a free version but I have found the paid version every bit worth it.


Cheers mate, i'll have a look at trying that.

In the meantime i popped back into BIOS and upped QPI/DRAM one notch to 1.25625 and well check it out



No App Crash this time, temps seem a little better, however G/Flops dropped!!


----------



## RSharpe

My kit came with a couple of small tubes of thermal paste. Does anyone know if this stuff is worth using, or should I use something better? The consistency was extremely soft.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Get something better, i've got some Shin Etsu on the way to replace my MX3 that im not happy with.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RSharpe*


My kit came with a couple of small tubes of thermal paste. Does anyone know if this stuff is worth using, or should I use something better? The consistency was extremely soft.


Something better... That paste will work but you will obtain better results with higher quality TIM's.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


Cheers mate, i'll have a look at trying that.

In the meantime i popped back into BIOS and upped QPI/DRAM one notch to 1.25625 and well check it out

No App Crash this time, temps seem a little better, however G/Flops dropped!!


Sounds like you had a slight instability. Run the suggestion and revert back to what you had and see if that works out. I am not all that familiar with Intel set ups so I can't really say one way or another. I did read that the crash had to do with something improperly installed and such. Pointed more to a driver than hardware. At least you did find what appears to be a solution to fall back on all though it does slow down those GFlops...


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Sounds like you had a slight instability. Run the suggestion and revert back to what you had and see if that works out. I am not all that familiar with Intel set ups so I can't really say one way or another. I did read that the crash had to do with something improperly installed and such. Pointed more to a driver than hardware. At least you did find what appears to be a solution to fall back on all though it does slow down those GFlops...


Gave CCleaner a run, wiped some stuff. Tried then reverting back and to 1.25000v and got BSOD lol. Trying again now but with more QPI/VTT, think I set it too 1.28125v in BIOS, that's one notch higher than the 1.27500v that passed but yielded lower GFlops.

See how it goes









EDIT

Seemed to go well



Shame about the temps, was hoping for better. Like i say though gonna try a remount with new paste and try build a shroud of sorts in the front of my case to try improve temps.

I was considering chipset cooling, then changed my mind, now im giving it some serious thought again as the NB Heatsink is very Hot too touch! So could be some investment there before i move onto GPU cooling.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


Gave CCleaner a run, wiped some stuff. Tried then reverting back and to 1.25000v and got BSOD lol. Trying again now but with more QPI/VTT, think I set it too 1.28125v in BIOS, that's one notch higher than the 1.27500v that passed but yielded lower GFlops.

See how it goes










Ok... there is another app you can dl. It's called Bluescreenview and it will tell you what file gave you the BSOD. Even if you install it now I believe you can read the BSOD dump file that was created and get the pertinent file name from there.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14365617*
> Gave CCleaner a run, wiped some stuff. Tried then reverting back and to 1.25000v and got BSOD lol. Trying again now but with more QPI/VTT, think I set it too 1.28125v in BIOS, that's one notch higher than the 1.27500v that passed but yielded lower GFlops.
> 
> See how it goes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT
> 
> Seemed to go well
> 
> 
> 
> Shame about the temps, was hoping for better. Like i say though gonna try a remount with new paste and try build a shroud of sorts in the front of my case to try improve temps.
> 
> I was considering chipset cooling, then changed my mind, now im giving it some serious thought again as the NB Heatsink is very Hot too touch! So could be some investment there before i move onto GPU cooling.


Once you get close to 4.3Ghz, you're going to hit the wall. That's where you have to raise VCore voltage quite a bit to get it stable and from the looks of things, your CPU temps are showing that you're there now. At 1.4v VCore, the CPU temp will rise up alot. My 960 is like that. At 4.3Ghz, it take 1.4 or more voltage and the CPU temps are really high under load (80C), so I just keep it at 4.2Ghz and 1.36v volts. CPU temps are in the 60s under load at that setting.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14366255*
> Once you get close to 4.3Ghz, you're going to hit the wall. That's where you have to raise VCore voltage quite a bit to get it stable and from the looks of things, your CPU temps are showing that you're there now. At 1.4v VCore, the CPU temp will rise up alot. My 960 is like that. At 4.3Ghz, it take 1.4 or more voltage and the CPU temps are really high under load (80C), so I just keep it at 4.2Ghz and 1.36v volts. CPU temps are in the 60s under load at that setting.


I see, i have been toying with the idea of getting one of those golden batch 930's. I know someone with one for sale, just not sure i wanna shell out for another CPU. Does batch number really mean that much with these Nehalem chips? The one im thinking of buying is 3001A187. If i can get a good price it may be worth the aggro of then selling this chip and hoping the golden batch actually lives up to its rep.

Otherwise think i'll leave her at 4.3Ghz and see how everyday usage temps are, the mid 80s is only when running IBT, idle is about 40C not sure when gaming yet, i'll have to have a play


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14366363*
> I see, i have been toying with the idea of getting one of those golden batch 930's. I know someone with one for sale, just not sure i wanna shell out for another CPU. Does batch number really mean that much with these Nehalem chips? The one im thinking of buying is 3001A187. If i can get a good price it may be worth the aggro of then selling this chip and hoping the golden batch actually lives up to its rep.
> 
> Otherwise think i'll leave her at 4.3Ghz and see how everyday usage temps are, the mid 80s is only when running IBT, idle is about 40C not sure when gaming yet, i'll have to have a play


I haven't researched the Nehalem batch numbers, but in general, if a certain chip overclocks well, the majority of chips from that batch have a better chance of overclocking just as well.


----------



## douglatins

I was calculating a wc setup and got to 500USD with fittings, sure it had CPU370, RX480 rad D5 pump, but cmon so much more! I going for this kit in the next 2 3 months.
Lol because i just got an archon, and already have a C12P, D14 and a supermega.
But for 190USD cmon! i want one asap
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14365617*
> Gave CCleaner a run, wiped some stuff. Tried then reverting back and to 1.25000v and got BSOD lol. Trying again now but with more QPI/VTT, think I set it too 1.28125v in BIOS, that's one notch higher than the 1.27500v that passed but yielded lower GFlops.
> 
> See how it goes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT
> 
> Seemed to go well
> 
> 
> 
> Shame about the temps, was hoping for better. Like i say though gonna try a remount with new paste and try build a shroud of sorts in the front of my case to try improve temps.
> 
> I was considering chipset cooling, then changed my mind, now im giving it some serious thought again as the NB Heatsink is very Hot too touch! So could be some investment there before i move onto GPU cooling.


WUT is this? this temps sucks man, what is happening i can get those with a D14 and 4.2Ghz


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14366665*
> I haven't researched the Nehalem batch numbers, but in general, if a certain chip overclocks well, the majority of chips from that batch have a better chance of overclocking just as well.


I may take the plunge then. Cheers for ya input matey
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins;14367178*
> I was calculating a wc setup and got to 500USD with fittings, sure it had CPU370, RX480 rad D5 pump, but cmon so much more! I going for this kit in the next 2 3 months.
> Lol because i just got an archon, and already have a C12P, D14 and a supermega.
> But for 190USD cmon! i want one asap
> 
> WUT is this? this temps sucks man, what is happening i can get those with a D14 and 4.2Ghz


WUT is this? A troll me thinks! Prove it!


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14367331*
> I may take the plunge then. Cheers for ya input matey
> 
> WUT is this? A troll me thinks! Prove it!


The temps part? I am running at 4Ghz with a archon with one 1300RPM fan, and getting 70C load. With a noctua i got 80-85C with 4.2Ghz. I will try to run it 4.2 for a while if i have it saved in the bios.

Your temps made me rethink the ASAP part


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins;14367432*
> The temps part? I am running at 4Ghz with a archon with one 1300RPM fan, and getting 70C load. With a noctua i got 80-85C with 4.2Ghz. I will try to run it 4.2 for a while if i have it saved in the bios.
> 
> Your temps made me rethink the ASAP part


To be honest fella, I do feel things are under performing a bit but I've got a couple ideas to help. Those are also worst case temps running IBT max.


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14367630*
> To be honest fella, I do feel things are under performing a bit but I've got a couple ideas to help. Those are also worst case temps running IBT max.


http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/xspc_rasa_750_rs360_watercooling_kit_review/1

I though you should be getting something like 70C in 4.5Ghz. Since the RX is thicker


----------



## ezveedub

Keep in mind, VCore is your biggest temp control. Once you start getting up to 1.38 and above, the core temps really start to rise, even under water cooling. The "golden" chips are the ones, that overclock well with low voltage. The other chips will either overclock to the same Ghz or won't get past a certain Ghz speed. My 960 OCed to 4.21 comfortably, but my 860 refuses to got past 4.0Ghz, even with more voltage.

On another note, regarding the RASA kits, is to check your CPU block. If you didn't flush the rad, you will get flux particles in the RASA block. Even after flushing, sometimes, over time, you still can accumulate debris in the block. What I have done recently is install Alphacool filters. It will trap any debris and you can take the filter apart to clean the mesh screen and pop it back in. That's easier than taking the RASA block apart for cleaning. I just screw the filter on at the pump outlet or you can place it inline right before the RASA block. The RASA block has the smallest passages, so if any debris is floating around, it will get trapped there.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14367771*
> Keep in mind, VCore is your biggest temp control. Once you start getting up to 1.38 and above, the core temps really start to rise, even under water cooling. The "golden" chips are the ones, that overclock well with low voltage. The other chips will either overclock to the same Ghz or won't get past a certain Ghz speed. My 960 OCed to 4.21 comfortably, but my 860 refuses to got past 4.0Ghz, even with more voltage.
> 
> On another note, regarding the RASA kits, is to check your CPU block. If you didn't flush the rad, you will get flux particles in the RASA block. Even after flushing, sometimes, over time, you still can accumulate debris in the block. What I have done recently is install Alphacool filters. It will trap any debris and you can take the filter apart to clean the mesh screen and pop it back in. That's easier than taking the RASA block apart for cleaning. I just screw the filter on at the pump outlet or you can place it inline right before the RASA block. The RASA block has the smallest passages, so if any debris is floating around, it will get trapped there.


ORRRRR.... that second plastic cover that needs to be removed from the waterblock itself!!!


----------



## Matt26LFC

Kahbrohn, what second plastic cover? I took off the protective bit on the copper block itself? Is there something else im supposed to remove?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins;14367712*
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/xspc_rasa_750_rs360_watercooling_kit_review/1
> 
> I though you should be getting something like 70C in 4.5Ghz. Since the RX is thicker


I believe he was running prime to test, which would run a little cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14367771*
> Keep in mind, VCore is your biggest temp control. Once you start getting up to 1.38 and above, the core temps really start to rise, even under water cooling. The "golden" chips are the ones, that overclock well with low voltage. The other chips will either overclock to the same Ghz or won't get past a certain Ghz speed. My 960 OCed to 4.21 comfortably, but my 860 refuses to got past 4.0Ghz, even with more voltage.
> 
> On another note, regarding the RASA kits, is to check your CPU block. If you didn't flush the rad, you will get flux particles in the RASA block. Even after flushing, sometimes, over time, you still can accumulate debris in the block. What I have done recently is install Alphacool filters. It will trap any debris and you can take the filter apart to clean the mesh screen and pop it back in. That's easier than taking the RASA block apart for cleaning. I just screw the filter on at the pump outlet or you can place it inline right before the RASA block. The RASA block has the smallest passages, so if any debris is floating around, it will get trapped there.


I didn't flush my rad as i'd read that XSPC already did this so i assumed mine was good to go. Maybe i should take my block apart 2morrow (new gear will arrive 2morrow anyway) and check for debris. How would i clean it all out if there is some there?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14367966*
> Kahbrohn, what second plastic cover? I took off the protective bit on the copper block itself? Is there something else im supposed to remove?


The block comes wrapped in a self adhesive plastic. No way to get to the block without removing this plastic. But on the copper face of the block itself, there is a "second" plastic. It can be difficult to see sometimes. If it is not removed, it will cause higher than normal temperatures. If you took both of these plastics off, then you should be ok then.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Oh rite, had me worried for a minute then matey lol yeah i peeled the bit off the copper face also


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14368103*
> Oh rite, had me worried for a minute then matey lol yeah i peeled the bit off the copper face also


Ok... and do you feel comfortable with the TIM application you made?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Not completely happy with it, think i may have put a little too much on. It was MX-3, which according to SkinneeLabs sucks lol But i got some Shin Etsu on the way, should be arriving 2morrow. Could be i just didn't tighten the block up enough, i did the top bolts hand tight, then tightened the bit underneath with the spring a bit but not all the way or nothing.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14368227*
> Not completely happy with it, think i may have put a little too much on. It was MX-3, which according to SkinneeLabs sucks lol But i got some Shin Etsu on the way, should be arriving 2morrow. Could be i just didn't tighten the block up enough, i did the top bolts hand tight, then tightened the bit underneath with the spring a bit but not all the way or nothing.


Shin Etsu is nice... Read up on how to apply it. There are some tricks to it since it's a bit more "paste" in texture. Most users recommend heating it up a bit to have it apply easier but just do the reading (google it - tons of info on this) and become familiar with it's application. I am almost certain you will see much betters temps once done. I will be doing the same shortly since I have a 6 month maintenance schedule set for my loop (personal choice more than anything) and I am coming up on the 'loop-break-down-and-clean-things-up-a-bit' time.

To clean off old TIM try using 70% or 91% (91% is better) isopropyl alcohol. It's cheap and almost every pharmacy/drug store sells it. DO NOT use anything that is oil based to clean off old TIM.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14368378*
> Shin Etsu is nice... Read up on how to apply it. There are some tricks to it since it's a bit more "paste" in texture. Most users recommend heating it up a bit to have it apply easier but just do the reading (google it - tons of info on this) and become familiar with it's application. I am almost certain you will see much betters temps once done. I will be doing the same shortly since I have a 6 month maintenance schedule set for my loop (personal choice more than anything) and I am coming up on the 'loop-break-down-and-clean-things-up-a-bit' time.
> 
> To clean off old TIM try using 70% or 91% (91% is better) isopropyl alcohol. It's cheap and almost every pharmacy/drug store sells it. DO NOT use anything that is oil based to clean off old TIM.


Yeah i read one guy put his Shin Etsu under his hot water tap for a while to help with spread. May do that one, i've got the Artic Cleaner gear, been using that stuff for a while to clean TIM off seems to do a good job making it all shiny again







I may take a photo of the MX3 left behind, and post it see what ya think as in too much or not.


----------



## exzited

my pump use to be 100% silent, now ir makes this annoying rattle. should i be worried?

its been about 2 weeks since i had it


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14370153*
> my pump use to be 100% silent, now ir makes this annoying rattle. should i be worried?
> 
> its been about 2 weeks since i had it


Mine did the same thing. Been like that for months with no problems. It doesn't seem to depict anything is going wrong, as pumps fail out of no where which were always silent. I use the rattle to now if the pump is working. If I don't hear anything is when I check it, LOL


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Mine did the same thing. Been like that for months with no problems. It doesn't seem to depict anything is going wrong, as pumps fail out of no where which were always silent. I use the rattle to now if the pump is working. If I don't hear anything is when I check it, LOL


hahaha now at least i know its working xD


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


The block comes wrapped in a self adhesive plastic. No way to get to the block without removing this plastic. But on the copper face of the block itself, there is a "second" plastic. It can be difficult to see sometimes. If it is not removed, it will cause higher than normal temperatures. If you took both of these plastics off, then you should be ok then.


Holy crap. I can't believe I did this! I was wondering why the CPU was as hot as running a stock cooler. When I went change the thermal paste, I realized that the second plastic film was still on the copper surface. Doh!

With two GTX580s running SLI on the same loop, it's still getting a bit warm. I wonder if I should make separate loops for the CPU and GPUs, or add another radiator to the current loop.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


ORRRRR.... that second plastic cover that needs to be removed from the waterblock itself!!!


Very true! I notice a lot of people seem to miss this for some reason.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RSharpe*


Holy crap. I can't believe I did this! I was wondering why the CPU was as hot as running a stock cooler. When I went change the thermal paste, I realized that the second plastic film was still on the copper surface. Doh!

With two GTX580s running SLI on the same loop, it's still getting a bit warm. I wonder if I should make separate loops for the CPU and GPUs, or add another radiator to the current loop.


How warm is it running? I've run a OCed 860, 6990 and 6970 on single RX360 for 4 hours under Crysis Warhead and everything was fine. Room was warm as heck though, but no issues or high temps to worry about really.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RSharpe*


Holy crap. I can't believe I did this! I was wondering why the CPU was as hot as running a stock cooler. When I went change the thermal paste, I realized that the second plastic film was still on the copper surface. Doh!

With two GTX580s running SLI on the same loop, it's still getting a bit warm. I wonder if I should make separate loops for the CPU and GPUs, or add another radiator to the current loop.


Also fill in your system info, so we know what you're using.


----------



## Nynn

Update on my sig rig.

Loop goes: Res/Pump --> 240rad --> GPU --> 120rad --> CPU --> Res/pump

Temps:

*GPU: 61c
CPU: 53c average*

Tested Furmark and Prime95 at the same time for these temps.

Going to order 45* angled adapters, may help my loop flow, gonna see if it helps some temps.

Thoughts?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nynn*


Update on my sig rig.

Loop goes: Res/Pump --> 240rad --> GPU --> 120rad --> CPU --> Res/pump

Temps:

*GPU: 61c
CPU: 53c average*

Tested Furmark and Prime95 at the same time for these temps.

Going to order 45* angled adapters, may help my loop flow, gonna see if it helps some temps.

Thoughts?


Angle adapters can actually reduce flow. I use them only as needed. If u want more flow, drop a DDC pump in with XSPC reservoir. It will have plenty of flow for sure, LOL.


----------



## CramComplex

Hey guys...so I'm getting a Rasa 450 RS120 from Daz...here are the list of things I've read about:

1.) Cleaning Rads
2.) Fittings (going to replace the stock kit fitting w/ compression next paycheque)
3.) Tubing
4.) Res + Pump and its disadvantages
5.) Bleeding
6.) Replacing coolant
7.) Distilled water + additives
8.) General Maintenance
9.) Running loop for several hours to test of leaks
10.) FAQ at first post

So I will be installing it on my sig-rig and I'd like to keep the purchase on the budget side. But I will be upgrading the kit down the road with compression fittings, better pump, better res, etc. I'm getting ready for my BD upgrade.

Anyway several questions before I pull the trigger today or tomorrow...

1.) Will my Scythe S-Flex F's on push/rad/pull be powerful enough?
2.) Should I get a new pump and res along with the purchase?
3.) Should I mod the stock back-plate of my mobo or get a separate back-plate?
4.) Would it be safe to run distilled water (for 3 months) or get biocide with it?
5.) Where is the best place to place the rad? Top or rear? (As those are my only options on my CM690II :/)










6.) Will I be able to place the res+pump on my drive bays? And does it come with a mounting kit?
7.) What's the recommended length of time before I replace the water?

So far those are my questions...this is my first W/C build...so yeah.

Again thanks for all the replies!


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;14376536*
> Hey guys...so I'm getting a Rasa 450 RS120 from Daz...here are the list of things I've read about:
> 
> 1.) Cleaning Rads
> 2.) Fittings (going to replace the stock kit fitting w/ compression next paycheque)
> 3.) Tubing
> 4.) Res + Pump and its disadvantages
> 5.) Bleeding
> 6.) Replacing coolant
> 7.) Distilled water + additives
> 8.) General Maintenance
> 9.) Running loop for several hours to test of leaks
> 10.) FAQ at first post
> 
> So I will be installing it on my sig-rig and I'd like to keep the purchase on the budget side. But I will be upgrading the kit down the road with compression fittings, better pump, better res, etc. I'm getting ready for my BD upgrade.
> 
> Anyway several questions before I pull the trigger today or tomorrow...
> 
> 1.) Will my Scythe S-Flex F's on push/rad/pull be powerful enough?
> 2.) Should I get a new pump and res along with the purchase?
> 3.) Should I mod the stock back-plate of my mobo or get a separate back-plate?
> 4.) Would it be safe to run distilled water (for 3 months) or get biocide with it?
> 5.) Where is the best place to place the rad? Top or rear? (As those are my only options on my CM690II :/)
> 
> 6.) Will I be able to place the res+pump on my drive bays? And does it come with a mounting kit?
> 7.) What's the recommended length of time before I replace the water?
> 
> So far those are my questions...this is my first W/C build...so yeah.
> 
> Again thanks for all the replies!


1.) Yes
2.) See bottom
3.) Your choice
4.) Run distilled by itself for 3 months with no kill coil? No.
5.) Your choice
6.) You put it in the 3.5in bays, no mounting kit.
7.) 6 to 12 months with biocide (ptnuke or killcoil)

If you are going to be replacing the pump and res as well as the fittings, you might as well not buy the kit. Just buy the rad, a pump, a res, and a cpu block separately.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14371834*
> Very true! I notice a lot of people seem to miss this for some reason.


I almost did when I got my kit... It was just minutes before shutting down the rig to start installing it all that I decided to read through the thread to make sure I had all my bases covered when I came upon a post mentioning this.

I purposely looked for that second plastic and found it hard to see... AND I WAS LOOKING FOR IT! I think Daz needs to consider using a sheeting that has red plastic lines or the word "REMOVE" printed on it.


----------



## Nude_Lewd_Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14376695*
> I almost did when I got my kit... It was just minutes before shutting down the rig to start installing it all that I decided to read through the thread to make sure I had all my bases covered when I came upon a post mentioning this.
> 
> I purposely looked for that second plastic and found it hard to see... AND I WAS LOOKING FOR IT! I think Daz needs to consider using a sheeting that has red plastic lines or the word "REMOVE" printed on it.


IDK about anyone else, but I wasn't looking for it (and hadn't even seen this thread until I had already installed and been running with it for a few days) but still saw it easily....and removed it..

Due to the HUGE number of posts, I haven't read through the entire post - just whatever has been said on the first page (20 posts/page) plus anything since my first post.. Hadn't known about needing to replace the water every 6-12 months until just now...


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nude_Lewd_Man;14377039*
> IDK about anyone else, but I wasn't looking for it (and hadn't even seen this thread until I had already installed and been running with it for a few days) but still saw it easily....and removed it..
> 
> Due to the HUGE number of posts, I haven't read through the entire post - just whatever has been said on the first page (20 posts/page) plus anything since my first post.. *Hadn't known about needing to replace the water every 6-12 months until just now...*


I found the film pretty easily also, ofc I already knew about it, but it was perfectly visible to me.

Is it that big of a deal to have to replace the water every 6 to 12 months?


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14376620*
> 1.) Yes
> 2.) See bottom
> 3.) Your choice
> 4.) Run distilled by itself for 3 months with no kill coil? No.
> 5.) Your choice
> 6.) You put it in the 3.5in bays, no mounting kit.
> 7.) 6 to 12 months with biocide (ptnuke or killcoil)
> 
> If you are going to be replacing the pump and res as well as the fittings, you might as well not buy the kit. Just buy the rad, a pump, a res, and a cpu block separately.


Thanks for the reply...if I did buy everything separately it'll cost me around $364CN...w/c is more than half of the 450 RS120...hmm...

I guess I'll just try to go with the kit and just get the compression fittings. :/

Last question before I get the kit...

Will the 450 RS120 kit handle a Razor 6970 included in the loop or would the 750 RS240 be a better choice?

Thanks again...I included some killcoil with my cart. XD


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;14377708*
> Thanks for the reply...if I did buy everything separately it'll cost me around $364CN...w/c is more than half of the 450 RS120...hmm...
> 
> I guess I'll just try to go with the kit and just get the compression fittings. :/
> 
> Last question before I get the kit...
> 
> Will the 450 RS120 kit handle a Razor 6970 included in the loop or would the 750 RS240 be a better choice?
> 
> Thanks again...I included some killcoil with my cart. XD


When you say more than half are you factoring in a new pump and res?

A 120 is enough for a cpu, not a cpu and graphics card. I wouldn't use an RS240 with a cpu and gpu loop either, your temps will be poor. Especially if you overclock anything. RX240 min.


----------



## Nude_Lewd_Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14377314*
> Is it that big of a deal to have to replace the water every 6 to 12 months?


Didn't say it was a big deal - but I think I would need to break my loop...as I hadn't considered a method to drain it...


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nude_Lewd_Man;14378459*
> Didn't say it was a big deal - but I think I would need to break my loop...as I hadn't considered a method to drain it...


Ouch. Some people have success with draining though the res. Just pull it out then flip it, or the case and let it drain though there. (while your at it you should install a drain too







)


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nude_Lewd_Man;14378459*
> Didn't say it was a big deal - but I think I would need to break my loop...as I hadn't considered a method to drain it...


Im in a similiar position, just recieved all my bits to make some mods (only had the loop running a week) and i didn't put a drain pipe in even though i knew it would be a good idea lol now im gonna struggle to drain it too


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14378720*
> Im in a similiar position, just recieved all my bits to make some mods (only had the loop running a week) and i didn't put a drain pipe in even though i knew it would be a good idea lol now im gonna struggle to drain it too


Same here... Didn't plan for it from the get-go as I should have. I am taking advantage of this semi-annual maintenance cycle that I have planned for this weekend (if all my ordered stuff arrives) and installing a drain tube.

Now I have the old saying stuck in my head: "Gotta drain the lizard!"

BRB... gotta go potty now.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14377819*
> When you say more than half are you factoring in a new pump and res?
> 
> A 120 is enough for a cpu, not a cpu and graphics card. I wouldn't use an RS240 with a cpu and gpu loop either, your temps will be poor. Especially if you overclock anything. RX240 min.


Yeah these are the parts that I went for...

Performance Single 120mm Radiator XSPC RX120
Swiftech MCP 355 Water Pump 2Gal/Min
XSPC Reservoir Laing DDC Top Combo
7/16" - 5/8" - Straight Compression Fitting - Black Chrome
HEATKILLER CPU Kuhler Rev3.0 AM2/AM3 LT
XSPC 7/16 ID 5/8 OD High Flex Tube 1ft - UV Orange-Red
KILLCOIL 99.9% Pure Silver Wire 0.5mm - 250mm

Hm...I guess I'll have to opt for the better RX240 kit then...hmm...this decision really got complicated fast. LOL

Well...I'll post back here on what I'll get...thanks again Taylorsci


----------



## DEEBS808

what is the best thing to use at the end of a drain?


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nude_Lewd_Man*


Didn't say it was a big deal - but I think I would need to break my loop...as I hadn't considered a method to drain it...



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


Im in a similiar position, just recieved all my bits to make some mods (only had the loop running a week) and i didn't put a drain pipe in even though i knew it would be a good idea lol now im gonna struggle to drain it too











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Same here... Didn't plan for it from the get-go as I should have. I am taking advantage of this semi-annual maintenance cycle that I have planned for this weekend (if all my ordered stuff arrives) and installing a drain tube.

Now I have the old saying stuck in my head: "Gotta drain the lizard!"

BRB... gotta go potty now.


Easy.










That should get out 80% of the water, afterwards you'll have to choose a spot that is elevated or somewhere you think theres no water, then either cut or wrap it with paper towels and disconnect and give that baby a blow









Quote:



Originally Posted by *DEEBS808*


what is the best thing to use at the end of a drain?


A stop fitting?

Personally I think quick disconnects look way nicer than a drain tube and would be easier to drain.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14380008*
> what is the best thing to use at the end of a drain?


Could use something like this.


----------



## DEEBS808

A stop fitting?

Personally I think quick disconnects look way nicer than a drain tube and would be easier to drain.[/QUOTE]

male or female end?


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Could use something like this.


kool thanks.ordering now


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14380176*
> A stop fitting?
> 
> Personally I think quick disconnects look way nicer than a drain tube and would be easier to drain.
> 
> male or female end?


You'll need both if you want it to serve as a quick disconnect.

Its a bit costly but it looks quite nice.


----------



## Boyboyd

I'm not sure if i could trust a quick disconnect.


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14380474*
> I'm not sure if i could trust a quick disconnect.


Elaborate


----------



## Boyboyd

Well if there's a loop in my rig, fastened with quick connects. I'm not sure i could trust water to not flow through them when i disconnected them.

They probably always will, but i'm paranoid.


----------



## CramComplex

Does this look like a good setup? I have no choice but to place the RAD on top of my CM690 as my 6950 with the AXP-2 won't fit with the HDD bay in front of it and I have several HDDs that occupy the lower part...










If this won't work then I'll have to settle with an RX120 kit :/

Any other thoughts anyone?


----------



## Retrolock

Got a Q. my gpu temps is horrible. I think my tim sucks because its to viscous and i can't spread it over the gpu. is this series okay? res/pump > cpu block > rad > gpu block > rad

my friend said it should have been res/pump > rad > cpu block. He's right? I used to have a cpu loop only..


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;14381797*
> Does this look like a good setup? I have no choice but to place the RAD on top of my CM690 as my 6950 with the AXP-2 won't fit with the HDD bay in front of it and I have several HDDs that occupy the lower part...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this won't work then I'll have to settle with an RX120 kit :/
> 
> Any other thoughts anyone?


You'll want to exhaust heat away from your other components, and yeah the setup looks quite standard, so I can't foresee any future complications.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrolock;14387431*
> Got a Q. my gpu temps is horrible. I think my tim sucks because its to viscous and i can't spread it over the gpu. is this series okay? res/pump > cpu block > rad > gpu block > rad
> 
> my friend said it should have been res/pump > rad > cpu block. He's right? I used to have a cpu loop only..


The water will reach a thermal threshold from the amount of heat that the radiators are able to dissipate, so the placement doesn't really matter at all.

Some people like to put the radiator before the cpu block because it'll get rid of any possible air bubbles, but that shouldn't be any issue in the long run as air bubbles will automatically disappear by itself. I also believe that the culprit behind your high gpu temps is an uneven tim application or even incorrect mounting.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;14381797*
> Does this look like a good setup? I have no choice but to place the RAD on top of my CM690 as my 6950 with the AXP-2 won't fit with the HDD bay in front of it and I have several HDDs that occupy the lower part...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this won't work then I'll have to settle with an RX120 kit :/
> 
> Any other thoughts anyone?


RX240 is too thick for that position, you need a slim rad. I have a Swiftech MCR220 there, RS240 also fits. You can also add a 120 rad to bottom or back exhaust if 240 is not enough.


----------



## Retrolock

@Agenesis, thanks bro for the explanation. Yeah the TIM is so hard to spread (Gelid GC Extreme), so it's better to make an X over the GPU which I just read. I'm gonna remount the block later tonight.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;14380359*
> You'll need both if you want it to serve as a quick disconnect.
> 
> Its a bit costly but it looks quite nice.


That looks pretty sweet! Can you post more pics and from different angles?


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14388194*
> That looks pretty sweet! Can you post more pics and from different angles?


Its not mine, lol. The pictures originated from builds by Digitalstorm, if you want that specific build then you're looking at around 10k as their base system starts at 3k with a h50









And the quick disconnects in that specific model are VL3s, but you'll want the updated VL4s since they offer a higher flow.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Ok guys i've taken my CPU Block off, these are the pics of the TIM application both on the CPU and the underside of the Block itself.

Notice on the block a square shape on the block? What is that? Too much pressure? Burning? I don't know. Also what do you think of the application? To me it doesn't look to great.







Hope the pics are clear enough for you to see ok, they where quickly taken with my HTC Desire.

Cheers

Matt


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14389708*
> Ok guys i've taken my CPU Block off, these are the pics of the TIM application both on the CPU and the underside of the Block itself.
> 
> Notice on the block a square shape on the block? What is that? Too much pressure? Burning? I don't know. Also what do you think of the application? To me it doesn't look to great.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope the pics are clear enough for you to see ok, they where quickly taken with my HTC Desire.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Matt


Just copper oxidation, nothing to worry about. And the tim application could be better, it looks like you mounted the block without laying your motherboard down, in which case if you are - you should try the spread or x method.


----------



## rheicel

http://www.overclock.net/amd-build-logs/1061211-build-logs-sugo-sg04h-amd-itx-5.html#post14389775

RASA-CPU Block and RASA RX240 on SFF case and ITX AMD mobo, yeah!


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14389708*
> Ok guys i've taken my CPU Block off, these are the pics of the TIM application both on the CPU and the underside of the Block itself.
> 
> Notice on the block a square shape on the block? What is that? Too much pressure? Burning? I don't know. Also what do you think of the application? To me it doesn't look to great.
> 
> Hope the pics are clear enough for you to see ok, they where quickly taken with my HTC Desire.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Matt


You want the spread to cover the black area better as that is where the cores are.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;14387643*
> You'll want to exhaust heat away from your other components, and yeah the setup looks quite standard, so I can't foresee any future complications.


Ok thanks!

Most likely I'll be exhausting from the side of the case with 1x140mm or 2x120mm S-Flex F's and 1x120mm S-Flex F on the rear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;14387962*
> RX240 is too thick for that position, you need a slim rad. I have a Swiftech MCR220 there, RS240 also fits. You can also add a 120 rad to bottom or back exhaust if 240 is not enough.


Is the X20 750 powerful enough to add a RX120/RS120?

I can't put any kind of rad at the bottom because of my HDDs.

Again thanks for the replies.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;14389943*
> Ok thanks!
> 
> Most likely I'll be exhausting from the side of the case with 1x140mm or 2x120mm S-Flex F's and 1x120mm S-Flex F on the rear.
> 
> Is the X20 750 powerful enough to add a RX120/RS120?
> 
> I can't put any kind of rad at the bottom because of my HDDs.
> 
> Again thanks for the replies.


A rad adds hardly any restriction, so yes. You could add 10 or 15 more if you had the room.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


A rad adds hardly any restriction, so yes. You could add 10 or 15 more if you had the room.


Ok thanks again! I'll be getting the RS240 kit then. Aight I'll post some build logs once the kit comes in. Thanks to all who helped!


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14389708*
> Ok guys i've taken my CPU Block off, these are the pics of the TIM application both on the CPU and the underside of the Block itself.
> 
> Notice on the block a square shape on the block? What is that? Too much pressure? Burning? I don't know. Also what do you think of the application? To me it doesn't look to great.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope the pics are clear enough for you to see ok, they where quickly taken with my HTC Desire.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Matt


This how u do it i hope help u out I use Arctic Silver 5 now this stuff hard to use for the first time


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KillerMike84*


This how u do it i hope help u out I use Arctic Silver 5 now this stuff hard to use for the first time


It's difficult to tell with the quality of that picture, but it looks like you spread it yourself. Which if true, is not the right way.


----------



## solar0987

Well i got my new pump hooked everything back up and my kit is running super hot. Where before i never hit 44c now im in the high 50's same setup and everything. Any ideas? I even had to back down my overclock alooot running at 3.5 and it still getting in to the 50's while gaming


----------



## Matt26LFC

Mike, i thought spreading it like that wasn't the best because u get air bubbles or something trapped between the two surfaces?

I have since remounted using the Shin Etsu and guess what, temps seem a little worse! I put a pea sized blob in the middle, placed and pressed the block down on it and gave it a little wiggle to help with spreading and getting rid of trapped air then screwed it back in hand tight.

Temps currently running Prime Large FFTs at Stock CPU settings

52 50 51 47 - Compared to my first mount of around 48 44 46 43


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Well i got my new pump hooked everything back up and my kit is running super hot. Where before i never hit 44c now im in the high 50's same setup and everything. Any ideas? I even had to back down my overclock alooot running at 3.5 and it still getting in to the 50's while gaming


Have you checked the mount, spread of tim, ect?


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14390296*
> Have you checked the mount, spread of tim, ect?


Didnt take the block out all i did was swap out the pump that stopped working for the new one.


----------



## logan666

heres my kit


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *logan666*


heres my kit










I could barely see anything! Does your camera have a flash?


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Didnt take the block out all i did was swap out the pump that stopped working for the new one.


The same thing happened to me when I found packing material inside my res floating around. After I flushed my loop. re attached the res/pump and put in fresh water my temps were higher. I just wabbled my case from side to side, even upside down and this forced all the air out. After a few hrs, my temps returned.


----------



## Retrolock

Remounted by xspc razor and idle temps is now 34c from 45c. Now vantage load is 45C!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Well all right... Got my RX360 in. Got my black tubing as well. Gotta do my summer cleaning on my rig and with my new Demciflex filters I should be golden from here on out.

Got to stop by the supermarket and get me a couple of bottles of white vinegar to flush out the new rad and the loop in general. Oh... and more distilled water.

Also need my 6-pack of Sam Adams.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Retrolock*


Remounted by xspc razor and idle temps is now 34c from 45c. Now vantage load is 45C!


Niceeeeeeeeeeeee....


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*


Also need my 6-pack of Sam Adams.










No Medalla Light??


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


Mike, i thought spreading it like that wasn't the best because u get air bubbles or something trapped between the two surfaces?

I have since remounted using the Shin Etsu and guess what, temps seem a little worse! I put a pea sized blob in the middle, placed and pressed the block down on it and gave it a little wiggle to help with spreading and getting rid of trapped air then screwed it back in hand tight.

Temps currently running Prime Large FFTs at Stock CPU settings

52 50 51 47 - Compared to my first mount of around 48 44 46 43


How many turns on the thumb screws? I give them 2-3 turns, but make sure they are evenly turned the same amount. I use a fat rice grain size of TIM.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


Ok guys i've taken my CPU Block off, these are the pics of the TIM application both on the CPU and the underside of the Block itself.

Notice on the block a square shape on the block? What is that? Too much pressure? Burning? I don't know. Also what do you think of the application? To me it doesn't look to great.







Hope the pics are clear enough for you to see ok, they where quickly taken with my HTC Desire.

Cheers

Matt


Based on those pics, you didn't secure the block down evenly. It was tighter on one side more than the other, that's why the TIM is shifted to one side.

What I do is mark the thumbscrews or notch it, then make 2-3 turns on each thumb wheel the exact amount. If you turn one 3 turns and the other 2 1/4 turns, the block will tilt to one side more than the other, making the contact un-even.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14394830*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Medalla Light??


There's plenty of that around... just need the heavier stuff! Was gonna get me some Jack Daniels but the wife said not this time around.

Just for you EZ...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14396522*
> There's plenty of that around... just need the heavier stuff! Was gonna get me some Jack Daniels but the wife said not this time around.
> 
> Just for you EZ...










Can't get none that it here though.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14396762*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't get none that it here though.


Lemme see what I can do about that... BTW, weren't you coming down here?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14396773*
> Lemme see what I can do about that... BTW, weren't you coming down here?


I'm long over due. Wife just gave birth to my son two weeks ago, so things are a bit hectic, but I'm planning something. Gonna be in Boston this month coming, but I may just head down for a few days in the next few weeks.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14396813*
> I'm long over due. Wife just gave birth to my son two weeks ago, so things are a bit hectic, but I'm planning something. Gonna be in Boston this month coming, but I may just head down for a few days in the next few weeks.


Let me know...a nd gratz on the new family addition!!!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14396820*
> Let me know...a nd gratz on the new family addition!!!


Thanks!


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14394459*
> Niceeeeeeeeeeeee....


Thanks man! Some pics, the tubings are UV sensitive or whatever but I dont have UV lights yets. And I broke one of the compression fittings of the gpu block lol so I had to use just a barb.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Retrolock*


Thanks man! Some pics, the tubings are UV sensitive or whatever but I dont have UV lights yets. And I broke one of the compression fittings of the gpu block lol so I had to use just a barb.











Looking good! I have the same mouse as you..


----------



## Retrolock

^MX-518 is probably the best mouse from Logitech. Simple and no gimmicks. That mouse is already 4 years old, lived longer than my Razer Copperhead.


----------



## DKTR62

Hello guys, im new here and i ive just installed my kit !
Is it normal to get between 27°C and 55°C full load with the xspc rs240 kit for one cpu ? (ambient temp 24°C)
Thx


----------



## anubis1127

Ucpu
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DKTR62;14417720*
> Hello guys, im new here and i ive just installed my kit !
> Is it normal to get between 27°C and 55°C full load with the xspc rs240 kit for one cpu ? (ambient temp 24°C)
> Thx


I guess that would depend on what CPU you have. Fill out your system info in the control panel, so we know what you are using.


----------



## Vlasov_581

gosh that 360 kit is only $150......started thinking about this alot lately


----------



## DKTR62

Info updated ! Thx


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DKTR62;14417919*
> Info updated ! Thx


55 is fine for your processor, is it overclocked at all?


----------



## DKTR62

Its not overclocked yet but i plan to do it !
I would like to add my gpu in the loop first with a rx120 radiator between the GPU and the CPU.


----------



## Nynn

I just ordered White tubing to replace my black (I realize white would look way cleaner).

And I ordered some angles so it helps my loop look sleek







along with my Kit


----------



## SadistBlinx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DKTR62*


Hello guys, im new here and i ive just installed my kit !
Is it normal to get between 27Â°C and 55Â°C full load with the xspc rs240 kit for one cpu ? (ambient temp 24Â°C)
Thx








]



I thought it would be alot cooler tbh, i just took my rig into a smaller case and using the stock 980x cooler (until i can be bothered to install a loop) and my top core temp is 54c and im running [email protected] 24/7

Under water i was at a top of 40c -50c overclocked and around 35c stock.

You don't have air stuck in your rad / loop still?

*Edit* just realized that's an RS not RX /facepalm i need to read better when im tirdz.

Still i would think temps would be under 50c with an rs240 if you are running at stock.


----------



## KillerMike84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


It's difficult to tell with the quality of that picture, but it looks like you spread it yourself. Which if true, is not the right way.


Maybe ur right or not I know what is the different between it people do so many way I do the way easy for me so I can see period I never had problems with My Crosshair IV never so I think I did right! Temp around 42C tops 100% 4.0GHz stable but thank telling I will work on it later


----------



## Matt26LFC

Question, how turbulent should the water look in the top of my res, it looks quite choppy in there?


----------



## modinn

Got my new RX360 kit + Razor 6970 loop installed this weekend. I'll post some pics in the next day or two.

My Phenom 955 runs at [email protected] like a champ. Idle is around 33 degrees. Full load for 2+ hours in Prime95 yields a Max temp of 47. Average is 51 degrees during gaming (added GPU heat).

Overclocking my 6970 to 980/[email protected] Idle at 31 degrees. Full load hits 44 degrees, VRMs hitting 49 at the high maximum. Average 45 core temp while gaming.

What do you all think of my temps? Are they normal?

I'm using PK-1 paste and did the Rice-grain method. Distilled water + Silver Killcoil. 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs. And my ambient temp in the room was 23 degrees.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Sounds good fella, i run an intel chip so don't know for sure, but those temps look pretty terrific!


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *modinn*


Got my new RX360 kit + Razor 6970 loop installed this weekend. I'll post some pics in the next day or two.

My Phenom 955 runs at [email protected] like a champ. Idle is around 33 degrees. Full load for 2+ hours in Prime95 yields a Max temp of 47. Average is 51 degrees during gaming (added GPU heat).

Overclocking my 6970 to 980/[email protected] Idle at 31 degrees. Full load hits 44 degrees, VRMs hitting 49 at the high maximum. Average 45 core temp while gaming.

What do you all think of my temps? Are they normal?

I'm using PK-1 paste and did the Rice-grain method. Distilled water + Silver Killcoil. 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs. And my ambient temp in the room was 23 degrees.


Sounds damn good to me! Good job!


----------



## jetboy623

How many mounting screws comes with the RS360 kit? Thanks.


----------



## mironccr345

Hey guys, I just added myself to the list. This is my first water build, and with the temps. im getting, i'll probably never go back. I hope you guys enjoy the pics.










































I'll post temps. once the TIM settles after P95 burn-in.


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14426021*
> How many mounting screws comes with the RS360 kit? Thanks.


What kind of mounting screws? There definitely isn't enough Mounting screws for the stock fans. They give you 2 per fan (the long ones with short threads so they don't puncture the radiator).


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14426021*
> How many mounting screws comes with the RS360 kit? Thanks.


4 for the AMD mount, 4 for the intel mounts. (if your talking about the cpu)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modinn;14426385*
> What kind of mounting screws? There definitely isn't enough Mounting screws for the stock fans. They give you 2 per fan (the long ones with short threads so they don't puncture the radiator).


They give you twelve fan screws, the kit comes with three fans. If you are using 6 fans it's your own fault for not buying more. (assuming 360 rad)


----------



## tryceo

If I get a RASA 360, do remove the tops fans (200mm) on a HAF X?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tryceo;14426423*
> If I get a RASA 360, do remove the tops fans (200mm) on a HAF X?


You don't have to. I don't think you can mount a rad up there, so the only reason to do so is if the fans are opposing the air flow of the fans on your rad. I would use them for better performance. (kinda push/pull)


----------



## tryceo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14426507*
> You don't have to. I don't think you can mount a rad up there, so the only reason to do so is if the fans are opposing the air flow of the fans on your rad. I would use them for better performance. (kinda push/pull)


Wait... If I don't mount the radiator on the top of my case, then where do I mount it?


----------



## DKTR62

Is there a big difference in temperatures with push/pull fans config on rs or rx rads ?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tryceo;14426560*
> Wait... If I don't mount the radiator on the top of my case, then where do I mount it?


It's still the top. From the pictures I've seen the fans don't look like they would get in the way of your mount. I don't actually own the X so take a look yourself and tell me


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DKTR62;14426620*
> Is there a big difference in temperatures with push/pull fans config on rs or rx rads ?


I wouldn't call it a big difference. I'd say 3 to 5c at the most.

whoops, double post.


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14426401*
> 4 for the AMD mount, 4 for the intel mounts. (if your talking about the cpu)
> 
> They give you twelve fan screws, the kit comes with three fans. If you are using 6 fans it's your own fault for not buying more. (assuming 360 rad)


I used just the 3 stock fans thank you. And they must have not put the twelve fan screws in my kit then. I bought a RX360 kit and I had to scavenge for screws that came from my case in order to mount the Radiator at the top of my case with the fans in Push config.

I used the 6 Long screws for attaching the 3 stock fans to the bottom of my Rad. And then I had to use these 4, what looked like PCI-E slot screws, and 8 screws that came with my case for mounting the Rad to the top.

Sorry if I offended you, but XPSC did in fact skimp on the screws in my kit. They gave me enough screws for Pull config with 3 fans outside of my case. That's it.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14426401*
> 4 for the AMD mount, 4 for the intel mounts. (if your talking about the cpu)
> 
> They give you twelve fan screws, the kit comes with three fans. If you are using 6 fans it's your own fault for not buying more. (assuming 360 rad)


Okay, that's wierd... how would they expect you to mount the rad onto the case with 12 screws whcih are being used for the 3 fans??? I will buy 2 packs of 15 6-32 screws so I can mount 6 fans (push/pull) and actually mount it onto the case







lol


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modinn;14426792*
> I used just the 3 stock fans thank you. And they must have not put the twelve fan screws in my kit then. I bought a RX360 kit and I had to scavenge for screws that came from my case in order to mount the Radiator at the top of my case with the fans in Push config.
> 
> I used the 6 Long screws for attaching the 3 stock fans to the bottom of my Rad. And then I had to use these 4, what looked like PCI-E slot screws, and 8 screws that came with my case for mounting the Rad to the top.
> 
> Sorry if I offended you, but XPSC did in fact skimp on the screws in my kit. They gave me enough screws for Pull config with 3 fans outside of my case. That's it.


So you only got 6 long fan screws in the cardboard insert inside the rad box?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14427202*
> So you only got 6 long fan screws in the cardboard insert inside the rad box?


That was all i got aswell, just installed two for each fan diagonally


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14427202*
> So you only got 6 long fan screws in the cardboard insert inside the rad box?


Apparently. Sorry if I offended you modinn, I didn't mean to come off that way.


----------



## Dradien

Two pics of my setup. Sorry for the ****ty pics, my phone doesn't like me, and my wife has the real camera at work at the moment.

On the list to be done:

Sleeve the goddamn cables.
Add a 6950 block
Change the Tubing to Black or Blue.

Again, sorry for the ****ty pics, and the fingerprint laden panel. I'm normally all anal about fingerprints, but lapsed. Ahh well.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradien;14427710*
> Two pics of my setup. Sorry for the ****ty pics, my phone doesn't like me, and my wife has the real camera at work at the moment.
> 
> On the list to be done:
> 
> Sleeve the goddamn cables.
> Add a 6950 block
> Change the Tubing to Black or Blue.
> 
> Again, sorry for the ****ty pics, and the fingerprint laden panel. I'm normally all anal about fingerprints, but lapsed. Ahh well.


dude you should really get some sinks on those VRMS, like as soon as possible.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5557/vid-86/Swiftech_MC21_Aluminum_MOSFET_Heatsinks_-_4_pack.html?tl=g40c21s226

get something like that.

or something like this.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4095/vid-66/Microcool_Chipsink_PLL_Passive_Heatsink_-_SILVER.html?tl=g40c21s226#blank

also you know you could mount that 360 on the top of the case inside it. just like my radiator.


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14427236*
> Apparently. Sorry if I offended you modinn, I didn't mean to come off that way.


No harm, no foul bro









But yeah, it looks like they may have started skimping on screws in the Kits recently? I mean, 2 screws per fan is all you really need. But are 6 extra screws going to make that big of a difference in XSPC's operating costs?

I bought 5 extra screws at Home Depot for $1.25. I'm sure they could get 6 for under a $0.90 if they bought in bulk.


----------



## BramSLI1

I'm new to this thread and I haven't gotten the kit in yet. It should be here in the next few days and I just wanted to know if I should go from the rad to my CPU first or to my GPU first? I'm also getting a Danger Den GTX 560 water block with this kit. I know that my hardware isn't exactly high-end but I'm not going to turn down a free kit. This is mainly so that I can prove to my boss that I can build a custom loop. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. My hardware is listed in my signature. Thanks for your help.


----------



## BramSLI1

I forgot to mention that I already read the FAQ and the kit I'm getting is the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;14429702*
> I'm new to this thread and I haven't gotten the kit in yet. It should be here in the next few days and I just wanted to know if I should go from the rad to my CPU first or to my GPU first? I'm also getting a Danger Den GTX 560 water block with this kit. I know that my hardware isn't exactly high-end but I'm not going to turn down a free kit. This is mainly so that I can prove to my boss that I can build a custom loop. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. My hardware is listed in my signature. Thanks for your help.


Personally... I always go with the coolest water into my CPU. That would be out of the rad and straight into the CPU. I'll let someone else with a similar setup chime in on that one though. I have a simple cpu loop.

Is your boss... like your wife or something? Why prove anything to him/her/it? Don't knock your components. You have some very good parts. The 560 Ti is no slouch by any means. The 990fx mobo is future ready. You have SSD... I am still dreaming of one.


----------



## BramSLI1

No my boss isn't my wife. That's funny though. I'm just very new to water cooling and he wants me to prove that I can do it. He's buying the system so I really don't mind since he's letting me keep it. I work with another guy that would usually handle the water cooling but his other job is getting in the way. I decided I wanted to step up to the plate and try to take his place. I have a Corsair H-50 but that really doesn't count. My system isn't bad it just isn't exactly the latest and greatest. I do love my UD7 though. Thanks for the reply Kahbrohn, I really appreciate it and I'll take it under advisement.


----------



## Kahbrohn

No problem... and welcome!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


I'm new to this thread and I haven't gotten the kit in yet. It should be here in the next few days and I just wanted to know if I should go from the rad to my CPU first or to my GPU first? I'm also getting a Danger Den GTX 560 water block with this kit. I know that my hardware isn't exactly high-end but I'm not going to turn down a free kit. This is mainly so that I can prove to my boss that I can build a custom loop. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. My hardware is listed in my signature. Thanks for your help.


Run pump to CPU>GPU>Rad, or Pump to Rad>CPU>GPU. The video card run hotter than CPUs normally and the CPU will not add any more real heat to the coolant before the GPU.


----------



## BramSLI1

I think I'll take your advice ezbeedub. I'll go from the pump to the rad and then from the rad to my CPU. My GPU will be last in my loop. From looking at other set ups this also looks the cleanest in terms of hose management. My rad is going to sit at the top of my HAF X of course. Does anyone have an opinion about whether I need a back plate for my CPU and I was wondering if anyone knows if the Danger Den GPU block comes with plugs? I know that you have to buy the barbs separately but does the block come with plugs or do I have to buy those as well?


----------



## BramSLI1

I'm sorry I misspelled your name ezveedub. I guess I'm getting tired. It's been a long day.


----------



## mxthunder

Wow... +1 for XSPC customer service. Send them a video of my noisy pump, 3 days later I have a brand new pump/res combo sitting in my hands, free of charge, no questions asked. 
The new pump is quiet.
Ahhh so much nicer to listen too, the old one sounded like it had rocks in it. It finally drove me over the edge after 7 months.

I am very pleased!


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


Wow... +1 for XSPC customer service. Send them a video of my noisy pump, 3 days later I have a brand new pump/res combo sitting in my hands, free of charge, no questions asked. 
The new pump is quiet.
Ahhh so much nicer to listen too, the old one sounded like it had rocks in it. It finally drove me over the edge after 7 months.

I am very pleased!


Yeah, they have good support in the way of replacing those pumps. I wonder if they would have saved money not skimping on the pump in the first place.


----------



## qazzaq2004

I'm thinking of switching to water cooling, after already having spent almost 200 on 2 air coolers.

I was thinking of getting the RS360 kit. I just ordered a Corsair H100, but am considering cancelling it, if this kit is worth the extra 80 bux.

My questions are:

1)Is it worth the $160 CAD, will I see noticeable temp diff from my Ven-X and is it a lot better than the H100 for 100 I just ordered?
2)Is it hard to install? I consider myself pretty handy, but have never attempted water before
3)Will in it fit in my Haf 932 in P/P Config
4)Are the stock fans decent or would my spare CM R4's be better?
5)Is the pump/res really that loud?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qazzaq2004;14437471*
> I'm thinking of switching to water cooling, after already having spent almost 200 on 2 air coolers.
> 
> I was thinking of getting the RS360 kit. I just ordered a Corsair H100, but am considering cancelling it, if this kit is worth the extra 80 bux.
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 1)Is it worth the $160 CAD, will I see noticeable temp diff from my Ven-X and is it a lot better than the H100 for 100 I just ordered?
> 
> You will not see any difference in Idle temperatures and ambient temperatures are a huge factor when it comes to Water cooling.
> 
> With that said, you will notice very good load temp differences compared to your Ven-X. I would venture to say it performs just a bit better than the H100, especially if you are going CPU only. But the name of the game with the RS360 kit is upgradability.
> 
> 2)Is it hard to install? I consider myself pretty handy, but have never attempted water before
> 
> I installed my first watercooling kit ever this past weekend. It took me a good 8-10 hours. But it was honestly the most fun I had in a while, since I'm pretty hands-on. There is no better feeling to sit back and look at something run that you built from scratch. I'm sure others can attest to this.
> 
> The install wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, of course the H100 would be easier. If you want to, you can PM me and I can give you pointers on bleeding the system when you are finally ready to fill it up with water. Make sure to measure twice and cut once with your tubing. You don't want to have to order more.
> 
> 3)Will in it fit in my Haf 932 in P/P Config
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, it will fit in your Haf 932 just fine (you won't be able to fit anything but maybe a fan controller or memory controller in the top 2 5.25" bays though). Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> And you can put the Push fans on the bottom of the radiator and then mount the radiator with the Pull fans outside of the case on top, with a cooling looking shroud. You may have to modify the front panel w/ the 3.5" bay if you want that third fan on the top.
> 
> 4)Are the stock fans decent or would my spare CM R4's be better?
> 
> I'm not sure how fast the CM R4's are, but if you are going with the RS360 radiator, they work best with High-RPM fans. So any fans with ~1800rpm+ will work fine. Decibel-ratings will factor in here.
> 
> 5)Is the pump/res really that loud?
> 
> It is not loud, nor is it quiet. As long as you have your fans on to at least 1200rpm (what I have mine at), it will cancel out the sound of the pump and give you a nice static noise that's not noticeable.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


I hope this helps. I would fully recommend the RS360 kit if you have any thoughts of adding in your GPU in the future to your loop.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qazzaq2004;14437471*
> I'm thinking of switching to water cooling, after already having spent almost 200 on 2 air coolers.
> 
> I was thinking of getting the RS360 kit. I just ordered a Corsair H100, but am considering cancelling it, if this kit is worth the extra 80 bux.
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 1)Is it worth the $160 CAD, will I see noticeable temp diff from my Ven-X and is it a lot better than the H100 for 100 I just ordered?
> 2)Is it hard to install? I consider myself pretty handy, but have never attempted water before
> 3)Will in it fit in my Haf 932 in P/P Config
> 4)Are the stock fans decent or would my spare CM R4's be better?
> 5)Is the pump/res really that loud?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


1.) Up to you, it'll be a bit better than the H100, even more so if you decide to add a gpu to the loop. The performance will be better than an H100, but with just a cpu I wouldn't expect more than 10c if that. (edit: I think 10c is wayyy to much, probably more like 5)

2.) Not really

3.) Yes!

4.) Fans are not half bad, don't know anything about the CM R4s.

5.) No it's not, I can't hear it at all. (if you can hear it something is wrong with it) Nosiest thing in my case is the PSU now.


----------



## qazzaq2004

Alright, I think I just might be getting this kit.

Last set of questions.
1)What do I have to add to the distilled water? Biocide? Kill coil?
2)How does kill coil work do I actually have to loop wire in the tubing?
3)Which of these options is better/Easier to use?
4)What's the difference between the RS240/RX240/RX 360 compared to the RS360?
5)Does the 50 dollar price premium for the RX360 justified by the performance increase over the RS360?


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qazzaq2004;14437725*
> Alright, I think I just might be getting this kit.
> 
> Last set of questions.
> 1)What do I have to add to the distilled water? Biocide? Kill coil?
> 
> Easiest thing is just to get a Silver Kill Coil and that's all you need.
> 
> 2)How does kill coil work do I actually have to loop wire in the tubing?
> 
> Just drop it in the reservoir and then it is ready to go!
> 
> 3)Which of these options is better/Easier to use?
> 
> Easiest is Silver Kill Coil because you don't have to do the calculations of determining how much PT-Nuke or whatever biocide you have to put in your loop every time you empty out your loop, Kill Coil is a one time deal.
> 
> 4)What's the difference between the RS240/RX240/RX 360 compared to the RS360?
> 
> Size. RS is about 1/2 the size of the RX radiator in terms of thickness. RS requires High-RPM fans. RX can use Medium-RPM fans, but can use High-RPM for even better performance.
> 
> More metal = more cooling. So the RX will undoubtedly perform better than a RS can. But for most people, it is a space issue in the top of their case. I would ask in the Official CM Haf 932 thread whether or not you can fit a RX360 in the top or not. I would say yes, but I doubt you can put push fans with it (not really sure).
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/392179-official-cooler-master-haf-x-932-a.html


Good luck on your build. You should probably get some different tubing as well, don't use a dye if you were thinking about it.

I use Primochill UV tubing 7/16" Inner Diameter (snug fit on barb so I don't have to use the ugly clamps).

Let us know what your final loop list looks like!


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qazzaq2004;14437725*
> Alright, I think I just might be getting this kit.
> 
> Last set of questions.
> 1)What do I have to add to the distilled water? Biocide? Kill coil?
> 2)How does kill coil work do I actually have to loop wire in the tubing?
> 3)Which of these options is better/Easier to use?
> 4)What's the difference between the RS240/RX240/RX 360 compared to the RS360?
> 5)Does the 50 dollar price premium for the RX360 justified by the performance increase over the RS360?


With the 932 you can fit a RX360 in push/pull, Or like I did RX360 + Rx120 with push fans


----------



## jetboy623

Is there any way to mount the RS360 inside an HAF 922??? Or maybe I sound stupid for asking...


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14438188*
> Is there any way to mount the RS360 inside an HAF 922??? Or maybe I sound stupid for asking...



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/757142-360mm-rad-haf-922-a.html

There ya go.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qazzaq2004;14437725*
> Alright, I think I just might be getting this kit.
> 
> Last set of questions.
> 1)What do I have to add to the distilled water? Biocide? Kill coil?
> 2)How does kill coil work do I actually have to loop wire in the tubing?
> 3)Which of these options is better/Easier to use?
> 4)What's the difference between the RS240/RX240/RX 360 compared to the RS360?
> 5)Does the 50 dollar price premium for the RX360 justified by the performance increase over the RS360?


1.) Kill coil is what I use, just drop it in the res and you are done.

2.) I believe it works by releasing silver ions into the water, which inhibits biological growth. (Don't want to be too technical, I might tell you the wrong thing) Not sure what you are asking about a wire.

3.) IMO Kill Coil

4.) RX is approx. 25mm thicker than it's RS counterpart.

5.) Again, up to you. Defiantly if you are going to add a GPU, you won't really notice a difference if all you have is a cpu. (with RX360)


----------



## mxthunder

I use the Coolermaster R4's on my RS360. They are about the weakest fans I would try. I bought a gentle typhoon ap29 and lost 1 degree by installing it in the middle of 2 R4's on the end. I would imagine 2 more would make an even bigger difference.
The kit is not hard to install at all... mostly common sense.


----------



## Vandal4126

Ok so I'm guessing this question would have been asked a few times in the past 914 pages but, I'm about to click buy on a RS240 kit and have a few questions on my mind.

I'd like to keep this kit running 24/7 to cool my 930 @ say 4.2GHZ if the temps are good. Is this system fine with running 24/7? If i turn it off do air bubbles form? Lastly what's the maintenance like, 6-12 months down the line given I don't use coolant just killcoil and distilled water?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


Ok so I'm guessing this question would have been asked a few times in the past 914 pages but, I'm about to click buy on a RS240 kit and have a few questions on my mind.

I'd like to keep this kit running 24/7 to cool my 930 @ say 4.2GHZ if the temps are good. Is this system fine with running 24/7? If i turn it off do air bubbles form? Lastly what's the maintenance like, 6-12 months down the line given I don't use distilled water just killcoil and distilled water?


it will keep your system nice and cool running 24/7, and you don't have to worry about when you turn it off. it will just sit there doing nothing.

With maintenance, you are probably going to want to inspect the loop at least every 3 months or so, and replace the water every 6 months just to be safe. But if you are doing dye or coolant, you want to inspect every month, and replace every 3 months.


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14440987*
> it will keep your system nice and cool running 24/7, and you don't have to worry about when you turn it off. it will just sit there doing nothing.
> 
> With maintenance, you are probably going to want to inspect the loop at least every 3 months or so, and replace the water every 6 months just to be safe. But if you are doing dye or coolant, you want to inspect every month, and replace every 3 months.


So I can't just pop the res open when I see the level running low and fill more water and be good to go? I have to drain the whole thing?

Is there anything I can buy to add to the distilled water and killcoil to make it all last longer without having to drain the whole system every 6months?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


So I can't just pop the res open when I see the level running low and fill more water and be good to go? I have to drain the whole thing?

Is there anything I can buy to add to the distilled water and killcoil to make it all last longer without having to drain the whole system every 6months?


you will be able to see your water level from outside the computer, but unless you leak, you will never lose water from the loop, and it is just a good idea to replace the water at least once a year, but I like every 6 months just to be on the safe side.
Plus it gives you a chance to change tubing if you want, and to clean out anything gunk that got in there or anything like that.


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


you will be able to see your water level from outside the computer, but unless you leak, you will never lose water from the loop, and it is just a good idea to replace the water at least once a year, but I like every 6 months just to be on the safe side.
Plus it gives you a chance to change tubing if you want, and to clean out anything gunk that got in there or anything like that.


So to replace to the water you need to then pull out the entire kit from your pc and then flush it out, does removing the piping cause it to become looser when refitting thus increasing the chance of leaks?

Realistically what's the chances of a leak when installing a system like this? I plan on keeping the loop for atleast two years so do I really only need distilled water and killcoil? None of the other products they sell for your liquid is worth it? There must be something that prolongs the 'life' of the water in the system so that maintenance can be done yearly instead of 6months.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


So to replace to the water you need to then pull out the entire kit from your pc and then flush it out, does removing the piping cause it to become looser when refitting thus increasing the chance of leaks?

Realistically what's the chances of a leak when installing a system like this? I plan on keeping the loop for atleast two years so do I really only need distilled water and killcoil? None of the other products they sell for your liquid is worth it? There must be something that prolongs the 'life' of the water in the system so that maintenance can be done yearly instead of 6months.


no you don't have to remove the kit from the computer, i just open the fill port, and flip the computer forward and let everything drain out. Then you fill it back up. The only time I have taken it apart was to change tubing.


----------



## Vandal4126

What about build up in the tubes etc? Does this happen with distilled and killcoil? Is the tubing that it comes with good? Would I be better off getting more pricey tubing?
I go to fraglans quite often, so say I install this system and have no leaks etc then a week later I need to transport my PC, so pop it in a car boot. Is it safe or is there a great chance of leaks?

Also I've read multiple posts of the tubing being crap in the kit, what tubing should I get?


----------



## modinn

I use Primochill UV Blue tubing (I have cathodes for the UV). 7/16" Inner Diameter (like the stock tubing) and at Performance PCS is $2 a foot. Not bad.


----------



## Vandal4126

So about 4 foot of this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82...?tl=g30c99s809

Should be more then sufficient?

What about this one: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...?tl=g30c99s809

I am ordering from frozencpu because I can get 15% of my purchase which is WIN.


----------



## CramComplex

Alrighty, my 750 RS240 is installed on my CM690II and now I'm leak testing. (pics as soon as I install everything back on the case)

Any idea how long should I leak test it?
I'm having air-pockets on the res+pump combo...anyway to remove those or just leave them there?
I've flipped, turned, tilted and shook my case with the pump working...anything else I should do before putting my rig back together?
[ninja edit]
If I were to add a GPU to the loop, what rad should I get to add to the loop? (I can only fit a 120mm rad)

Again as always thanks for the replies.


----------



## Dradien

I would just like to say that I am offically in love with Watercooling and holy hell it is awesome.

On my old air cooler, if I even thought about 3.3+ Ghz, my computer would tell me to piss off and shut down (granted, it was not the best cooler, but still).

With this Rasa kit, I can take my PhenomII x3 720 to 3.7 Ghz stable with 49C max temps (with around 29-30ish ambient) no problems. I haven't tried 3.7 with the 4th core unlocked, but I know it does 3.6 with 4 cores unlocked with no problem.

This is with the stock TIM that came with the kit, the default fans in a pull config, and generally not really...optimized. I'm thinking with some better fans in Push/Pull, and some better TIM, then I'll get even lower, which is sex.










For some odd reason, Photobucket hates big pics. If that is difficult to read for anyone, tell me and Ill see if someone else can host it full size.


----------



## Vandal4126

Ok so,
I'm going with this tubing,
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...?tl=g30c99s809

Is there any reason to go for compression fittings? I see their quite expensive.


----------



## antonr90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


Ok so,
I'm going with this tubing,
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...?tl=g30c99s809

Is there any reason to go for compression fittings? I see their quite expensive.


Seems fine, I personally prefer Primochill tubing. And on compression fittings, no real REASON to go to compression fittings, Just preference really, barbs will work just as good.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dradien*


I would just like to say that I am offically in love with Watercooling and holy hell it is awesome.

On my old air cooler, if I even thought about 3.3+ Ghz, my computer would tell me to piss off and shut down (granted, it was not the best cooler, but still).

With this Rasa kit, I can take my PhenomII x3 720 to 3.7 Ghz stable with 49C max temps (with around 29-30ish ambient) no problems. I haven't tried 3.7 with the 4th core unlocked, but I know it does 3.6 with 4 cores unlocked with no problem.

This is with the stock TIM that came with the kit, the default fans in a pull config, and generally not really...optimized. I'm thinking with some better fans in Push/Pull, and some better TIM, then I'll get even lower, which is sex.

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h460/Dradien27/Awesometemps.jpg[IMG]

For some odd reason, Photobucket hates big pics. If that is difficult to read for anyone, tell me and Ill see if someone else can host it full size.

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Picturepush.com

Did you take that wallpaper pic?


----------



## bennieboi6969

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dradien*


I would just like to say that I am offically in love with Watercooling and holy hell it is awesome.

On my old air cooler, if I even thought about 3.3+ Ghz, my computer would tell me to piss off and shut down (granted, it was not the best cooler, but still).

With this Rasa kit, I can take my PhenomII x3 720 to 3.7 Ghz stable with 49C max temps (with around 29-30ish ambient) no problems. I haven't tried 3.7 with the 4th core unlocked, but I know it does 3.6 with 4 cores unlocked with no problem.

This is with the stock TIM that came with the kit, the default fans in a pull config, and generally not really...optimized. I'm thinking with some better fans in Push/Pull, and some better TIM, then I'll get even lower, which is sex.










For some odd reason, Photobucket hates big pics. If that is difficult to read for anyone, tell me and Ill see if someone else can host it full size.


have u tried unlocking ur cpu?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14445030*
> Ok so,
> I'm going with this tubing,
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10473/ex-tub-633/Tygon_R-3603_716_ID_58_OD_-_Laboratory_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s809
> 
> Is there any reason to go for compression fittings? I see their quite expensive.


If money is an issue (and when isn't it these days!), then use normal 1/2" barbs (silver/chrome, black, whatever color - the difference in price is minimal IMO) with 7/16" tubing. The slightly smaller diameter tubing will "compress" itself over the barbs nicely.


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antonr90;14445594*
> Seems fine, I personally prefer Primochill tubing. And on compression fittings, no real REASON to go to compression fittings, Just preference really, barbs will work just as good.


Is there any difference between the two? The Primochill/Tygon?
I won't be using any colour dyes just distilled + killcoil and have normal blue LED Strip and florescent tube. I added glossy blue anti-kink coils to make it look prettier


----------



## ltg2227

I'm thinking about getting the RX360 kit for my sig rig(ditiching the H70). I've done some reading on here but my question is whether or not my GPU xfire cards can support watercooling, if not, then should i just get the RX240 kit for just watercooling my CPU? also, am i correct to believe that the only difference between the RS and RX kits are the size of the Rads? I know i've got some more reading to do but i just wanted to find out about my video cards before i can decide on which kit to get.

here is the actual video card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125353


----------



## Vandal4126

The difference between RX and RS is indeed the rad thickness. As far as I know the RS in push/pull renders the same temps as a stock RX unit which is around $40 more so it seems the RS is the best from the two in terms of price performance.

I'm no water expert I'm also considering going water from my H50 because the H100 pipes are too short to reach the bottom of my case.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14447992*
> The difference between RX and RS is indeed the rad thickness. As far as I know the RS in push/pull renders the same temps as a stock RX unit which is around $40 more so it seems the RS is the best from the two in terms of price performance.
> 
> I'm no water expert I'm also considering going water from my H50 because the H100 pipes are too short to reach the bottom of my case.


I see what your saying, but if you have to buy the extra fans for push/pull for the RS kit, wouldn't that negate the $40 savings? or does the RS kit come with enough fans to run P/P? At any point i may upgrade the fans anyway though.


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14448134*
> I see what your saying, but if you have to buy the extra fans for push/pull for the RS kit, wouldn't that negate the $40 savings? or does the RS kit come with enough fans to run P/P? At any point i may upgrade the fans anyway though.


Well depends on what fans you buy, but I mean if you already have 2x120's laying around they'll do just fine.

I've got 4 AP-15s here so getting the thicker rad here would be a waste since I only want to cool my CPU.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14448134*
> I see what your saying, but if you have to buy the extra fans for push/pull for the RS kit, wouldn't that negate the $40 savings? or does the RS kit come with enough fans to run P/P? At any point i may upgrade the fans anyway though.


The RX 360 actually performs a bit better than what an RS480 (if it existed) would.
The kit only comes with three fans.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14448156*
> Well depends on what fans you buy, but I mean if you already have 2x120's laying around they'll do just fine.
> 
> I've got 4 AP-15s here so getting the thicker rad here would be a waste since I only want to cool my CPU.


I see,So if you bought a kit, would it be the RS240 then and you just use your ap-15 fans correct? btw, they are the Gentle Typhoons ap-15's correct? i've tried looking for those but they are out of stock just about everywhere.


----------



## Vandal4126

Well I have 4 GT AP-15's, I'm not sure how the stock fans(there's 2) perform with the GT's I just like them because they are pretty much inaudible when your case is closed. As far as I know the stock fans that come with the RASA kits are crappy.

I've been looking at this system as well,
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11704/ex-wat-157/Swiftech_H20-220_EDGE_Series_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_Universal_Mount_Hot_Item.html?tl=g30c321s818&id=CTcLgjnc&mv_pc=6223

I mean it's so simplistic and $ isn't really a problem I just want to know what the temps are like compared to the RS240. That system also looks very safe for transporting your case around.


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14447966*
> I'm thinking about getting the RX360 kit for my sig rig(ditiching the H70). I've done some reading on here but my question is whether or not my GPU xfire cards can support watercooling, if not, then should i just get the RX240 kit for just watercooling my CPU? also, am i correct to believe that the only difference between the RS and RX kits are the size of the Rads? I know i've got some more reading to do but i just wanted to find out about my video cards before i can decide on which kit to get.
> 
> here is the actual video card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125353


Looking at your video card, there unfortunately aren't any full-cover GPU waterblocks that will fit your graphics card because of the PCB. You can get a universal waterblock, but honestly they don't perform as well as a full-cover block.

In the future when thinking about upgrading your GPU's, which will probably be a while, and possibly adding it to your loop, there are a few things to keep in mind.

1. Is it a Reference board? (ATI stamp above the pins on the Fan side of the card)

2. Are there any full-cover GPU blocks for that specific card?

3. Weigh the differences in Block-type (acetal, copper, etc.) against the manufacturer. Although I've heard that EK fixed their flaking problem on their Nickel blocks, I wouldn't trust using them for a while.

4. Are you going to eventually go SLI/Crossfire? If so, you can make adding that 2nd GPU into the loop way easier by planning ahead with your loop configuration.

Most of this applies to Nvidia cards as well, but I'm not sure about how to determine whether they are reference boards or not.

Just my 2 cents and some suggestions.


----------



## Eagle1337

The nvidia ones have an nvidia logo on the pcb.

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk


----------



## modinn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*


The nvidia ones have an nvidia logo on the pcb.

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk


Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## hammertime850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modinn;14450117*
> You can get a universal waterblock, but honestly they don't perform as well as a full-cover block.


What makes you say this? Looking around the internet it seams that a universal (+ ram sinks) will do just as good as full-cover if not better.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


I see what your saying, but if you have to buy the extra fans for push/pull for the RS kit, wouldn't that negate the $40 savings? or does the RS kit come with enough fans to run P/P? At any point i may upgrade the fans anyway though.



The RX rads from the 120 to the 480 are thick because they have three 3 rows of inner tubes for better water flow. The RS rads only have one.


----------



## modinn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hammertime850*


What makes you say this? Looking around the internet it seams that a universal (+ ram sinks) will do just as good as full-cover if not better.


VRM's overheating seems to be a problem in the latest generations of graphics cards. And if you are going to do Watercooling, I'm assuming you are going to be doing overclocking as well.

VRM's tend to heat up 5 degrees more than any other part on my GPU. If they aren't cooled, then what is the point of cooling the chipset? If you aren't going to overclock a lot, then a Universal block will do just fine. The re-usability factor would be great as well if money is a problem.

Plus, Full-blocks look way better too in my opinion.

Edit: I will agree that with the proper RAM sinks it could perform just as well as the full-cover block. However, airflow will have to be taken into consideration now for the RAM sinks to work effectively (especially if you are working in SLI/Xfire).


----------



## hammertime850

Quote:



Originally Posted by *modinn*


VRM's overheating seems to be a problem in the latest generations of graphics cards. And if you are going to do Watercooling, I'm assuming you are going to be doing overclocking as well.

VRM's tend to heat up 5 degrees more than any other part on my GPU. If they aren't cooled, then what is the point of cooling the chipset? If you aren't going to overclock a lot, then a Universal block will do just fine. The re-usability factor would be great as well if money is a problem.

Plus, Full-blocks look way better too in my opinion.


Full blocks look 10x better agreed, I just was looking to get 2 mcw82 for my 6950 because they are non-ref. Why couldn't you just use more heat sinks on the vrms (if that's possible, I'm a noob)?


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammertime850;14450363*
> Full blocks look 10x better agreed, I just was looking to get 2 mcw82 for my 6950 because they are non-ref. Why couldn't you just use more heat sinks on the vrms (if that's possible, I'm a noob)?


More heat sinks will work. But I see you are using an 800D. So you probably know that the airflow isn't the best in the world. How close are your GPU's together on your motherboard? If they are almost touching each other, then you're going to have to probably get a fan blowing down the middle of the cards in order for the RAM sinks to work effectively on the top card.

But I may totally be wrong about this, hopefully someone can clarify.


----------



## hammertime850

Quote:



Originally Posted by *modinn*


More heat sinks will work. But I see you are using an 800D. So you probably know that the airflow isn't the best in the world. How close are your GPU's together on your motherboard? If they are almost touching each other, then you're going to have to probably get a fan blowing down the middle of the cards in order for the RAM sinks to work effectively on the top card.

But I may totally be wrong about this, hopefully someone can clarify.


I cant have them right next to each other they would hit 90 C and stop working lol... thank god I got the ud7 because it has another pcie slot on the bottom and that's the only way to keep them cool. All at 100% fan too. Well I haven't bought anything yet, I'm just exploring options atm, but I hate how loud the tf3's are at 100% fan speed. Right now water cooling seams like a good option for silence and performance.


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammertime850;14450464*
> I cant have them right next to each other they would hit 90 C and stop working lol... thank god I got the ud7 because it has another pcie slot on the bottom and that's the only way to keep them cool. All at 100% fan too. Well I haven't bought anything yet, I'm just exploring options atm, but I hate how loud the tf3's are at 100% fan speed. Right now water cooling seams like a good option for silence and performance.


I understand completely. Well I hope you find what you are looking for at the price you like.

Here's a website for comparing Universal Blocks I think can be a pretty good tool to use if you haven't read it already.

http://skinneelabs.com/universalgpu-nv480/

I'm not sure if it can apply to ATI cards as well though as the author notes in the last page.


----------



## hammertime850

Quote:



Originally Posted by *modinn*


I understand completely. Well I hope you find what you are looking for at the price you like.

Here's a website for comparing Universal Blocks I think can be a pretty good tool to use if you haven't read it already.

http://skinneelabs.com/universalgpu-nv480/

I'm not sure if it can apply to ATI cards as well though as the author notes in the last page.


holy crap those ek blocks beat the mwc80 by 10 C!! wow. thanks alot you made my decision harder lol, thanks for that article btw very helpful.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammertime850;14450225*
> What makes you say this? Looking around the internet it seams that a universal (+ ram sinks) will do just as good as full-cover if not better.


Ram sinks are not the best coolers, especially with low direct airflow. (SLI makes this worse)
Without proper cooling they can overheat, and over time they are more likely to fail. The VRM's getting too hot is not a problem with a full cover water block.


----------



## hammertime850

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Ram sinks are not the best coolers, especially with low direct airflow. (SLI makes this worse)
Without proper cooling they can overheat, and over time they are more likely to fail. The VRM's getting too hot is not a problem with a full cover water block.


so someone would have to install a fan and direct it the heat sinks (which would be awkward looking) gotcha


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammertime850;14450942*
> so someone would have to install a fan and direct it the heat sinks (which would be awkward looking) gotcha


Ehhh not necessarily, it's not that big of a deal unless your running a good bit of voltage though it. A lot of nicer cases have a fan that blows directly in that area anyway.


----------



## Vandal4126

I know all you guys say Killcoil+Distilled but what about this coolant? I know it's expensive but does it mean no having to change coolant?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8617/ex-liq-151/Fluid_XP_Nano-Fluid_Liquid_Cooling_Fluid_32_oz_-_Ghost_White.html?tl=g30c103s779&id=iDjhSKQK&mv_pc=3673

Features,
Low Electrical Conductivity
*No Decline in Efficiency*
Safer
No Gas Build-Up
Will Not Cause Hydrolysis of the Coolant
Water Based
High Thermal Efficiency
Works with well with smaller radiators and heat exchangers
Freezer Point Lower Than -40°C
Freezing and Burst Protection of the System
No Problem in Start-up and Operation in Cold Regions
No Flash Point / Non-Flammable
No Fire Hazards
Will Be Approved by DOT
Environmentally Friendly / Non-Toxic
Almost No Handling Risks


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14452118*
> I know all you guys say Killcoil+Distilled but what about this coolant? I know it's expensive but does it mean no having to change coolant?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8617/ex-liq-151/Fluid_XP_Nano-Fluid_Liquid_Cooling_Fluid_32_oz_-_Ghost_White.html?tl=g30c103s779&id=iDjhSKQK&mv_pc=3673
> 
> Features,
> Low Electrical Conductivity
> *No Decline in Efficiency*
> Safer
> No Gas Build-Up
> Will Not Cause Hydrolysis of the Coolant
> Water Based
> High Thermal Efficiency
> Works with well with smaller radiators and heat exchangers
> Freezer Point Lower Than -40°C
> Freezing and Burst Protection of the System
> No Problem in Start-up and Operation in Cold Regions
> No Flash Point / Non-Flammable
> No Fire Hazards
> Will Be Approved by DOT
> Environmentally Friendly / Non-Toxic
> Almost No Handling Risks


I don't know... $45 for who knows how many ounces... thats just a bit to expensive to consider without some real reviews or something. Does sound interesting though.

Overclockers3d.com did say this:

*Pro's*
• _*Performance as good as plain water.*_
• Long life of around 5 years.
• Available in lots of UV colours.
• Components covered in Fluid XP+ will live to see another day.

*Con's*
• Very Expensive
• _*Results show it still has an effect on electrical components.*_

"Performance as good as plain water."... I think I'll stick with distilled water for the time being and use the $45 for something else. It seems like the claim on electrical components is up in the air still.


----------



## Vandal4126

Well the main reason I'm looking at it is because I will only be using the RS240 to cool my CPU so I will not need to open the loop etc to add a gfx card as I know I will never want that. So with this although it is quite expensive I'm thinking no cleaning = win.


----------



## CramComplex

Hi guys, so I installed my loop and I'm pretty comfortable with the loop...I'm pretty comfortable with the temps and the noise coming from my PC. I've got 2 S-Flex F's on push and 1 scythe slim 120mm on pull on the rad. (will be getting another one for P/P on the rad) 2 140mm on the side exhausting air, 1 140mm intake and 1 120mm S-Flex F on the bottom as intake and AC MX3 for the TIM.

Here are my temps @ 27*C ambient (feels like 30*C due to humidity) and all fans at 50%...what do you guys think?


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammertime850;14450568*
> holy crap those ek blocks beat the mwc80 by 10 C!! wow. thanks alot you made my decision harder lol, thanks for that article btw very helpful.


*Stay away from any waterblocks made by EK...* http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/915966-please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel.html

*Example:*


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14452118*
> I know all you guys say Killcoil+Distilled but what about this coolant? I know it's expensive but does it mean no having to change coolant?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8617/ex-liq-151/Fluid_XP_Nano-Fluid_Liquid_Cooling_Fluid_32_oz_-_Ghost_White.html?tl=g30c103s779&id=iDjhSKQK&mv_pc=3673
> 
> Features,
> Low Electrical Conductivity
> *No Decline in Efficiency*
> Safer
> No Gas Build-Up
> Will Not Cause Hydrolysis of the Coolant
> Water Based
> High Thermal Efficiency
> Works with well with smaller radiators and heat exchangers
> Freezer Point Lower Than -40°C
> Freezing and Burst Protection of the System
> No Problem in Start-up and Operation in Cold Regions
> No Flash Point / Non-Flammable
> No Fire Hazards
> Will Be Approved by DOT
> Environmentally Friendly / Non-Toxic
> Almost No Handling Risks


Save your money. Coolant/Fluid Roundup










as you can see, all the coolants perform pretty much the same EXCEPT FluidXP Nano. If you want to try a pre-made coolant, Fesser or Koolance have had good results and feedback. I'm testing Primochill Pure (Clear) right now in my system, seems pretty good so far. I'd stay away from Primochill dye bomb as I have seen it stain clear tubes and gunk up in waterblocks. As far as colored coolant, the general rule is to stay away unless you change it often. Although, people have reported Fesser and Koolance colored fluids to perform well without staining or gunk build up... Personally, I'd stick with clear fluids and use colored tubes if you want color.


----------



## modinn

never mind


----------



## CramComplex

Added myself to the list...here are my pics. Comments, critiques and suggestions are welcome.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;14465348*
> Added myself to the list...here are my pics. Comments, critiques and suggestions are welcome.


Looks good, & I do see you have no space for another fan...ouch! Can you also take a close up of your drain plug?

Oh man! I completely forgot that Scythe makes slim fans which are perfect for people with RX360s inside the HAF X cases with limited space for fans DOH!. I will order 3 for push, and use the two 200MM fans at the top for pull on my HAF X.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14465851*
> Looks good, & I do see you have no space for another fan...ouch! Can you also take a close up of your drain plug?
> 
> Oh man! I completely forgot that Scythe makes slim fans which are perfect for people with RX360s inside the HAF X cases with limited space for fans DOH!. I will order 3 for push, and use the two 200MM fans at the top for pull on my HAF X.


Thanks! I have space believe it or not for another slim 120mm fan, just haven't gotten to get one. :/

Just make sure they're the same speed, my S-Flex Fs and Slim fan are both at 1.6k RPM.

Sure I'll take a photo later tonight...will post back and list the items for that drain.

List of additional items:
1/2" ID Tubing - Barb - Black Chrome
3-way Splitter, T Block Cross-connect Adapter - Matt Black
Fill/Drain Port Sealing Plug w/ 1/2"ID Tubing Barb - Silver
Zip Ties


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;14466208*
> Thanks! I have space believe it or not for another slim 120mm fan, just haven't gotten to get one. :/
> 
> Just make sure they're the same speed, my S-Flex Fs and Slim fan are both at 1.6k RPM.
> 
> List of additional items:
> 1/2" ID Tubing - Barb - Black Chrome
> 3-way Splitter, T Block Cross-connect Adapter - Matt Black
> Fill/Drain Port Sealing Plug w/ 1/2"ID Tubing Barb - Silver
> Zip Ties


Nice! I am going to order the splitter. Are the slims noisy?


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14466961*
> Nice! I am going to order the splitter. Are the slims noisy?


You need additional barbs for the splitter tho.

I can barely hear them coz my 2 push fans at the top are the noisy ones :/

But here are some numbers for you: Slim Info


----------



## Vandal4126

Ok, RS240 kit ordered with the primochill tubing extra should be here next week.

Now I understand initial leak testing etc but what I want to find out is if there's a way to totally secure the fittings/res for transporting the machine. Is there a special tape or some sort of leak proofing substance I can apply to the rad just to feel safe when putting the case on it's side in a car boot?


----------



## jamborhgini313

has anyone tried 2 of these pumps/res together?


----------



## Nynn




----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


Ok, RS240 kit ordered with the primochill tubing extra should be here next week.

Now I understand initial leak testing etc but what I want to find out is if there's a way to totally secure the fittings/res for transporting the machine. Is there a special tape or some sort of leak proofing substance I can apply to the rad just to feel safe when putting the case on it's side in a car boot?


The res won't leak as long as you put the cap on tight. You could use teflon tape or something similar for a tighter seal. The fittings just use 7/16in tubing + clamps and it shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## DEEBS808

Will the pump handle a rx480 and rx240.Running CPU and GPU cooling.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DEEBS808*


Will the pump handle a rx480 and rx240.Running CPU and GPU cooling.


Stock should work, but I think your at the limit. I would consider a D5 or DDC pump with that much in the loop.


----------



## CramComplex

Hey guys, there's something weird happening with my loop and temps...

Here's my config for fans in the case:
2x 140mm 1.6k rpm exhaust 1x 120mm 1.6k exhaust
1x 140mm 1.6k rpm intake 1x 120mm 1.6k rpm intake

I've got 2x Scythe S-Flex F's on Push and 1 120mm slim pull on my rs240...

I crank up my fans to 100% via my Scythe KazeQ12 controller and my load temps are 40*C~44*C but when I slow all my fans down to 50% it drops to 37*C~40*C

This is the first time I've seen this happen...anyone know why this is happening?


----------



## ezveedub

You may have a confilct with two different fans in push/pull. Remove the slim 120 and see what happens.


----------



## Vandal4126

You pulling air in from the outside? Or pushing out the case? Could be high temp ambient in case/your area making it hotter?

Or

A fan is pushing/pull air the wrong direction.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14477441*
> You may have a confilct with two different fans in push/pull. Remove the slim 120 and see what happens.


Ok removed the Slip 120 pull same thing...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14477545*
> You pulling air in from the outside? Or pushing out the case? Could be high temp ambient in case/your area making it hotter?
> 
> Or
> 
> A fan is pushing/pull air the wrong direction.


pulling air inside...

No pull slim fan load at 100% / fans at 100% (45*C ~ 46*C)
No pull slim fan load at 100% / fans at 50% (44*C holding for 15mins)

W/ pull slim fan load at 100% / fans at 100% (44*C ~ 45*C)
W/ pull slim fan load at 100% / fans at 50% (43*C ~ 44*C)

it's a weird thing happening, i'm just curious as to why this is happening..

it's a 3*C difference so it's no biggie but i'm just curious why this is happening i bet when i add another slim 120mm fan it'll go lower...


----------



## jdangond

Would like to be added...just added my gpu to the RS240 loop.
before:









After:


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jdangond*


Would like to be added...just added my gpu to the RS240 loop.
before:


Sexy, what are your new gpu temps like compared to before?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jdangond*


Would like to be added...just added my gpu to the RS240 loop.
After:










Looks good, But I would try to fix that kink you have starting in the hose from the 120 Rad to video card.


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Looks good, But I would try to fix that kink you have starting in the hose from the 120 Rad to video card.


Check the last pic, looks like he did.


----------



## jdangond

Ambient temp 26C 
before: would idle around 39-41 during load 68-70
after: idle 30-31 load 43-45


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jdangond*


Ambient temp 26C 
before: would idle around 39-41 during load 68-70
after: idle 30-31 load 43-45


wow that's massive, and did you cpu temps go higher or lower?


----------



## jdangond

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


Check the last pic, looks like he did.


Yeah I tried to fix that kink the best I could without having to buy a 45 degree fitting. Doesnt look like it restricts flow all that much


----------



## jdangond

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


wow that's massive, and did you cpu temps go higher or lower?


yeah cpu temp did go up about 2 or 3 degrees


----------



## Matt26LFC

Nice build jdangond, i've just taken receipt of my GPU block, Heatkiller for 6950. Should be getting it in 2morrow, when i've saved a bit more money my second 6950 can go under too







Love this watercooling stuff


----------



## Cwolfer

Hi guys,

So I just purchased an rx360 kit from http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-CPU-watercooling-kit-pr-4780.html to water cool my HD 6990 (I bought the powercolor one with the water block already attached).

This will be my first foray into water cooling. I'm confident in being able to build it, but I just want to make sure:

Is there anything else, besides the distilled water + pt nuke, that I will need to buy in addition to the kit and card w/ block mentioned above in order to safely and successfully set up my water-cooling system? Anything else that is just recommended?

I read the FAQ, but just want to be absolutely sure.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14486196*
> Hi guys,
> 
> So I just purchased an rx360 kit from http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-CPU-watercooling-kit-pr-4780.html to water cool my HD 6990 (I bought the powercolor one with the water block already attached).
> 
> This will be my first foray into water cooling. I'm confident in being able to build it, but I just want to make sure:
> 
> Is there anything else, besides the distilled water + pt nuke, that I will need to buy in addition to the kit and card w/ block mentioned above in order to safely and successfully set up my water-cooling system? Anything else that is just recommended?
> 
> I read the FAQ, but just want to be absolutely sure.


Good TIM and different tubing you should be good to go.


----------



## Cwolfer

Thanks! Suggestions on the tubing?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14486539*
> Thanks! Suggestions on the tubing?


Primochills PrimoFlex or tygon.


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14475986*
> Stock should work, but I think your at the limit. I would consider a D5 or DDC pump with that much in the loop.


Thanks.


----------



## n3tr0m

Need a little bit of help here guys, i got the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit. I'm running a Intel Core i7 2600k at 4,8GHz at 1,395v, and my temperatures are high from what I can say. They jumps up to arround 70-85*C when doing a normal Prime95 run (Blend). And they constantly jumps from 70 and then to 80 every 2-3 seconds. I'll upload a picture so you can see how my system looks like, maybe that will help you understand why my temperatures are that high ..
Also, will there be any difference if I pull air in from the top where the radiator is? Instead of pulling air out of the case (that's how my setup is now)
Loop = Pump - Radiator - CPU - Reservoir


----------



## Cwolfer

Would one rasa 750 rx360 kit be ok cooling both a 6990 and 6970?


----------



## n3tr0m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14489262*
> Would one rasa 750 rx360 kit be ok cooling both a 6990 and 6970?


Cooling both of them and your CPU, or just the GPU's? I think you need a slightly more powerful pump to do all. Though i might be wrong, i'm not sure what that kit is capable of


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3tr0m;14489290*
> Cooling both of them and your CPU, or just the GPU's? I think you need a slightly more powerful pump to do all. Though i might be wrong, i'm not sure what that kit is capable of


Just the gpus. I'm watercooling mostly to reduce noise rather than to over clock (although I will oc something once it is wcd), so I'm in no rush to wc the CPU.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3tr0m;14489025*
> Need a little bit of help here guys, i got the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit. I'm running a Intel Core i7 2600k at 4,8GHz at 1,395v, and my temperatures are high from what I can say. They jumps up to arround 70-85*C when doing a normal Prime95 run (Blend). And they constantly jumps from 70 and then to 80 every 2-3 seconds. I'll upload a picture so you can see how my system looks like, maybe that will help you understand why my temperatures are that high ..
> Also, will there be any difference if I pull air in from the top where the radiator is? Instead of pulling air out of the case (that's how my setup is now)
> Loop = Pump - Radiator - CPU - Reservoir


In a one block system the loop order doesn't matter.

Did you take both sheets of protective plastic off the CPU block?


----------



## n3tr0m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;14489807*
> In a one block system the loop order doesn't matter.
> 
> Did you take both sheets of protective plastic off the CPU block?


Both of the protective plastic sheets is off. My temperatures did drop a little when i turned the fans to take cold air from outside the case and then into it with Push-Pull. At 4,8 Ghz with 1,430v it idles at 41,75*C average, and 74*C on load with Prime95 Blend, this good?


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *n3tr0m*


Both of the protective plastic sheets is off. My temperatures did drop a little when i turned the fans to take cold air from outside the case and then into it with Push-Pull. At 4,8 Ghz with 1,430v it idles at 41,75*C average, and 74*C on load with Prime95 Blend, this good?


I get 65c with 1.472 volts @ 4.8Ghz with push-pull from inside case to outside. I did lap my block though and I am using AS5. I might try a different paste down the road. My idle temps are 25c
I am also using 5 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans atm.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cwolfer*


Hi guys,

So I just purchased an rx360 kit from http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-75...t-pr-4780.html to water cool my HD 6990 (I bought the powercolor one with the water block already attached).



I was actually thinking about getting a 6990 +block and selling my GTX480 with block or option 2, pick up another GTX480 and block. Are you running the 6990 with triple screens?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hey guys took apart my block as some of you know I wasn't happy with my temps, now its apart it does look quite messy! I've got pics just can't upload yet, what's the best way to clean the block? Links or descriptions would be great thanks.

Pics to come

Cheers

Matt


----------



## Frontsidebus

My tubing is starting to turn cloudy and lights up yellow when I put a torch to it. Water in the res and the res itself in still crystal clear though.

I've read here that the stuff that comes with the Rasa kit is rubbish so I'll just get some decent stuff when I add my GPU to the loop.


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;14497000*
> My tubing is starting to turn cloudy and lights up yellow when I put a torch to it. Water in the res in still crystal clear though.


That's common for the tubing
Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;14497000*
> My tubing is starting to turn cloudy and lights up yellow when I put a torch to it. Water in the res ans the res itself in still crystal clear though.
> 
> I've read here that the stuff that comes with the Rasa kit is rubbish so I'll just get some decent stuff when I add my GPU to the loop.


Same here, I had the same problem with my tubeing, just get some coloured tubeing


----------



## Vandal4126

Yeah heard the RASA tubing does that, Invest in some primochill, I ordered 7ft with my rasa kit.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14496938*
> Hey guys took apart my block as some of you know I wasn't happy with my temps, now its apart it does look quite messy! I've got pics just can't upload yet, what's the best way to clean the block? Links or descriptions would be great thanks.
> 
> Pics to come
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Matt


Just a tooth brush and some dish soap should suffice. Your block shouldn't be dirty, I'd be interested in seeing the pictures. Did you flush the radiator?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14497197*
> Just a tooth brush and some dish soap should suffice. Your block shouldn't be dirty, I'd be interested in seeing the pictures. Did you flush the radiator?


Hey, no I didn't flush the rad, probably should have done, but weren't sure how. Will give it a flush before I reassemble. I'll give the toothbrush ago, I'll get pics up before I do though. Just waiting for the girlfriend to put her laptop down (uni work) then I'll upload.

Cheers for responding though matey


----------



## Vandal4126

Oh, I just wanted to find out is it necessary to flush the whole system before securing your piping etc? Would there be a lot of dirt to get rid off?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Flush it all fella or ya might end up in the same position as me


----------



## ezveedub

Flush the rad. Half fill it halfway and shake vigorously to remove residual flux.


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14497873*
> Flush the rad. Half fill it halfway and shake vigorously to remove residual flux.


So just fill some distilled water and shake it up? Tubing/fittings/block don't need any cleaning?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14497930*
> So just fill some distilled water and shake it up? Tubing/fittings/block don't need any cleaning?


You can use tap water and flush the rad. Just rinse it out with distilled or RO water. Fittings, tubing and blocks shouldn't have anything in them. Maybe tubing can have dust or shipping particles from being packed, but fittings are generally sealed in bags and blocks should be clean of debris also. If the block still has material/debris in it, they did a crappy QC job building it IMO.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Ok Guys, got a couple of pics to upload.





Im sure its flux or something from the rad, as i emptied the remaining water from the rad there was little bits of green stuff sunk at the bottom of the bottle that i poured the water in.

So gonna get some dionised water from somewhere and flush it through. Anyone in the UK know where i can easily get some of this?

Cheers

Matt


----------



## Vandal4126

Jeez dude did you use drain pipe water for that setup that looks really really really bad.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14498912*
> Jeez dude did you use drain pipe water for that setup that looks really really really bad.


No i used PC ICE


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14498869*
> Ok Guys, got a couple of pics to upload.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im sure its flux or something from the rad, as i emptied the remaining water from the rad there was little bits of green stuff sunk at the bottom of the bottle that i poured the water in.
> 
> So gonna get some dionised water from somewhere and flush it through. Anyone in the UK know where i can easily get some of this?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Matt


That green stuff is bits of flux from the rad. Just use tap water to shake & flush the rad and then rinse with purified water (Distilled, RO/DI). I use metal polish to clean the CPU block also. Looks like you have oxidation already. I use a filter in my loop just to keep stuff out of the block now.


----------



## Tori

Hi

If I buy a Rasa RS240 kit, will it be enough to cool 2 x ATI Radeon HD 6870s?

I can't fit the RS360 in my case so that's out of the question.


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tori*


Hi

If I buy a Rasa RS240 kit, will it be enough to cool 2 x ATI Radeon HD 6870s?

I can't fit the RS360 in my case so that's out of the question.



I'd look into the rx240. You could mount externally too.

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tori*


Hi

If I buy a Rasa RS240 kit, will it be enough to cool 2 x ATI Radeon HD 6870s?

I can't fit the RS360 in my case so that's out of the question.


It should work. I don't think 6870s get very hot. I ran mine today with RX360 and there wasn't much heat build up at all.


----------



## george_orm

hey guys,
first post been watching this thread for a while and have just got my Rs240 kit installed and running,

all i can say is very happy with the kit, im not over clocking as i dot have the board for it but down the track that is the plan so my temps are

ideal : 29'
prime95 cpu at 100% max temp is 40

freak yer very happy will get pic's up soon

just want to say thanks, i haven't asked any questions but reading all the advice on this thread has been really helpful... so yer thanks , will post some pic soon


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


That green stuff is bits of flux from the rad. Just use tap water to shake & flush the rad and then rinse with purified water (Distilled, RO/DI). I use metal polish to clean the CPU block also. Looks like you have oxidation already. I use a filter in my loop just to keep stuff out of the block now.


Cheers matey, i've been flushing my rad today using warm tap water. Must have flushed it 25 times and im still getting a tiny amount of particles but its looking a lot better than it was. I've now gotta run some De-ionised water through it, was able to get some from Homebase 1Litre for 99p for anyones that interested in getting some.

Now onto cleaning my CPU block, how should i proceed? Do i put some warm water into a container and submerge the whole block in water then take a toothbrush to it? Also going to put some fairy washing up liquid in the warm water?

If i go this route do i need to wash or rinse the block off with some of the de-ionised water also?

Cheers Guys

Matt


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomfix;14497055*
> Same here, I had the same problem with my tubeing, just get some coloured tubeing


What size kit did you end up getting? I know you've wanted one of these for years now.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14506041*
> Cheers matey, i've been flushing my rad today using warm tap water. Must have flushed it 25 times and im still getting a tiny amount of particles but its looking a lot better than it was. I've now gotta run some De-ionised water through it, was able to get some from Homebase 1Litre for 99p for anyones that interested in getting some.
> 
> Now onto cleaning my CPU block, how should i proceed? Do i put some warm water into a container and submerge the whole block in water then take a toothbrush to it? Also going to put some fairy washing up liquid in the warm water?
> 
> If i go this route do i need to wash or rinse the block off with some of the de-ionised water also?
> 
> Cheers Guys
> 
> Matt


Just take the top off and clean it with dishwashing soap and water with a toothbrush. You shouldn't have anything in it that won't come off by simple washing, unless you used dye based coolants. Once done, just rinse parts in DI water and reassemble. If the copper base is discolored, you can try some citric acid and DI water solution to clean the copper (lemon/lime juice is alternative, use juice directly on the copper).


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14508885*
> Just take the top off and clean it with dishwashing soap and water with a toothbrush. You shouldn't have anything in it that won't come off by simple washing, unless you used dye based coolants. Once done, just rinse parts in DI water and reassemble. If the copper base is discolored, you can try some citric acid and DI water solution to clean the copper (lemon/lime juice is alternative, use juice directly on the copper).


Hey, I used the dish soap, got lumpy bits out and the discoloring is still there I've put ketchup on it which has got rid of a lot of that, I'm gonna rinse it DI to clean the ketchup off. I'll take a photo or two and post em. The block still looks a bit dark in places around the pins but looks ok other than that.

Put my heatkiller block on my 6950 while I waited, I'll do a pic of that too, was fun installing even though all the instructions where in German lol

EDIT

Photos of Block Now

*Front*





Looking better, but there are some dark spots still inbetween the pins, think its more oxidation. Oxidation has no impact on performance does it?

*Back*



Backs looking a bit weird around the edges, think that came about from the kitchen roll i had it sat on!?

*GPU Block*


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


Hey, I used the dish soap, got lumpy bits out and the discoloring is still there I've put ketchup on it which has got rid of a lot of that, I'm gonna rinse it DI to clean the ketchup off. I'll take a photo or two and post em. The block still looks a bit dark in places around the pins but looks ok other than that.

Put my heatkiller block on my 6950 while I waited, I'll do a pic of that too, was fun installing even though all the instructions where in German lol

EDIT

Photos of Block Now

*Front*





Looking better, but there are some dark spots still inbetween the pins, think its more oxidation. Oxidation has no impact on performance does it?

*Back*



Backs looking a bit weird around the edges, think that came about from the kitchen roll i had it sat on!?


Use a light amount of copper polish and the discolor will go away. The back looks a tad scuffed up. That discoloration will not affect performance in any measurable way. I use Brasso and a toothbrush to clean up oxidation in crevices areas of the block and buff the back side a bit to remove any blemishes. Not a lot of polishing, just a light amount to clean it up. Just make sure if you do use polish, you clean it with a brush and hot sudsy water to remove any polish left back. Then rinse or leave it in a DI water until your're ready to assemble it. Your fingers alone can start to discolor clean copper/brass, so use rubber gloves if needed. But like I said, you don't have to do this.

They have the English instructions for the HeatKiller 6970 block

http://www.watercool.de/_uploads/Fil...3_69X0_ENG.pdf


----------



## wholeeo

Can't believe there are no RX240 cut out templates online. Might have to make one.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wholeeo*


Can't believe there are no RX240 cut out templates online. Might have to make one.


You're talking about this?

http://www.aquatuning.de/download/Aq...-Schablone.pdf

*Notes for printing this:*

"Note regarding the printing of templates:
When printing the templates the scaling must be set to 100% and all options for centring, resizing and repositioning of the page content must be deactivated. Before using the template please check the scale of the template using the control line.

Different radiator types use different screw types and sizes. Here our recommendations for the size of the holes:

3mm for: Alphacool (NexXxos), Aquacomputer, Magicool
3,5mm for Swiftech
UNC: XSPC, Coolgate
4mm for: HWLabs (Black Ice), Koolance, Watercool"


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


You're talking about this?

http://www.aquatuning.de/download/Aq...-Schablone.pdf

*Notes for printing this:*

"Note regarding the printing of templates:
When printing the templates the scaling must be set to 100% and all options for centring, resizing and repositioning of the page content must be deactivated. Before using the template please check the scale of the template using the control line.

Different radiator types use different screw types and sizes. Here our recommendations for the size of the holes:

3mm for: Alphacool (NexXxos), Aquacomputer, Magicool
3,5mm for Swiftech
UNC: XSPC, Coolgate
4mm for: HWLabs (Black Ice), Koolance, Watercool"


Will have to print it out and see if it matches.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wholeeo*


Will have to print it out and see if it matches.


This could help too, it's from a rad grill, but should work fine depending on what you are trying to do. the same rules from the other one apply, no scaling.

radgrill template


----------



## mwayne5

Could you add me to the list?

Sorry for crappy pics...my phone isn't the best lol


----------



## solar0987

Sadly i will be leaving you wonderfull folks. Getting my feet wet with this kit was fun and taught me a thing or 2, but ive decided to make a custom loop. Ill still haunt the thread thought....muahahahaha

Oh im still gonna use the radiator till i order a new one with tax money hahaha that count?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Sadly i will be leaving you wonderfull folks. Getting my feet wet with this kit was fun and taught me a thing or 2, but ive decided to make a custom loop. Ill still haunt the thread thought....muahahahaha

Oh im still gonna use the radiator till i order a new one with tax money hahaha that count?


Using XSPC components still counts to stay. I'm using EK with XSPC parts.


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


I was actually thinking about getting a 6990 +block and selling my GTX480 with block or option 2, pick up another GTX480 and block. Are you running the 6990 with triple screens?


Not sure yet. Building the system Wednesday and will be running it at first on a single aw2310 to see how noticeable the 120 hz difference is. If its significant, I'll pick up 2 more. If not, I'll probably grab the u2711.

System will be:

i5-2500k
WS revolution mobo
Hd 6990 + msi lightning hd 6970 ("trifire")

Mostly air-cooled except for the 6990 (care more about noise then anything). Will gradually wc the rest.


----------



## urbanshaft

couple questions fellers
is the stock thermal paste good enough?and how hard is it to drain 1 of these loops?
im thinking of buying the tripple rad kit and possible adding a gpu when new series are out


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urbanshaft;14517593*
> couple questions fellers
> is the stock thermal paste good enough?and how hard is it to drain 1 of these loops?
> im thinking of buying the tripple rad kit and possible adding a gpu when new series are out


The stock thermal paste is good enough in the sense that it does transfer heat, but I found better results with some AS5 I picked up at the radioshack 2 min from my house. I would imagine you would find better results with some shin-etsu x23, or some pk1. I guess my answer would be no, it's not "good enough", it will work, but since you just spent $130+ on cooling, you might as well spend an extra $10 on TIM for better temps.

As for the draining, I'm not sure yet, I'll find out next weekend when I add my 360 rad, and new tubing. If you're concerned with draining, maybe put in a t-line. I'm probably just going take my CPU block off, pull it outside the case, and drain that way. I want to try some new TIM (EVGA Frostbite) to see if it's better than the AS5 or not.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urbanshaft;14517593*
> couple questions fellers
> is the stock thermal paste good enough?and how hard is it to drain 1 of these loops?
> im thinking of buying the tripple rad kit and possible adding a gpu when new series are out


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127;14518397*
> The stock thermal paste is good enough in the sense that it does transfer heat, but I found better results with some AS5 I picked up at the radioshack 2 min from my house. I would imagine you would find better results with some shin-etsu x23, or some pk1. I guess my answer would be no, it's not "good enough", it will work, but since you just spent $130+ on cooling, you might as well spend an extra $10 on TIM for better temps.
> 
> As for the draining, I'm not sure yet, I'll find out next weekend when I add my 360 rad, and new tubing. If you're concerned with draining, maybe put in a t-line. I'm probably just going take my CPU block off, pull it outside the case, and drain that way. I want to try some new TIM (EVGA Frostbite) to see if it's better than the AS5 or not.


I just recently drained my loop wasn't easy lol i have the res at the highest point in my case so once i emptied that empyting the rest of the loop wasn't easy because the water won't run up and into the res for obvious reasons.

This time im looking into adding a drain pipe, i've added a graphics card to the loop so the drain pipe will come off the graphics card as its the lowest part of the loop i can attach another piece of tubing.

The only thing i need to know is does it matter which port i add the tube to, the graphics card inlet or outlet or if it doesn't matter.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urbanshaft;14517593*
> couple questions fellers
> is the stock thermal paste good enough?and how hard is it to drain 1 of these loops?
> im thinking of buying the tripple rad kit and possible adding a gpu when new series are out


I remove the bay res from the bay by pulling it forwards slightly, then moving it back into the case. Then i just use the side-panel to empty the res into a bucket, then remove the tubing from the pump/res housing and try to get as much water out of the loop as possible.

Then i carefully dismantle it.


----------



## Frontsidebus

RS120 and Razor 6970 added to my loop along with some black tubing.
Need to give my case a good clean too.

Next purchase will be a new camera, this old Fuji Finepix just can't make it...


----------



## urbanshaft

what else i need fellers?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *urbanshaft*










what else i need fellers?


The RS360 kit comes with the IandH Silver KillCoils.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *urbanshaft*










what else i need fellers?


You might want a T-Fitting that is the same color as the tubing, it looks kind of funny otherwise.


----------



## urbanshaft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14526035*
> The RS360 kit comes with the IandH Silver KillCoils.


oh really?it didnt say it comes with it n picture dont show it

and on t fitting good call


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urbanshaft;14526158*
> oh really?it didnt say it comes with it n picture dont show it
> 
> and on t fitting good call


Scroll down to "select your options." It's included as a free option.


----------



## urbanshaft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14526180*
> Scroll down to "select your options." It's included as a free option.


ty


----------



## Vandal4126

I have a tube of MX-4 here, How bad is it compared to Shin-Etsu?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14526391*
> I have a tube of MX-4 here, How bad is it compared to Shin-Etsu?


Not a big difference.


----------



## Enfluenza

im seriously considering this kit. although my asetek is ok, its not really performing very good anymore. i think if my socket temp is idling at 44C (fans on low) and loads at 55C (max fans), is kind of bad.
there is no way this will handle BD so i think RASA is my best upgrade path. i have some questions:
what color is the LED in the res, if its blue, could i change the color to RED? i dont want the lights to conflict with the whole red/black theme.

what else would i need with the kit? and since i want some red tubing, how much of it would i need from frozen cpu?

btw does this look good so far:








is 6 feet enough?


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enfluenza;14528001*
> im seriously considering this kit. although my asetek is ok, its not really performing very good anymore. i think if my socket temp is idling at 44C (fans on low) and loads at 55C (max fans), is kind of bad.
> there is no way this will handle BD so i think RASA is my best upgrade path. i have some questions:
> what color is the LED in the res, if its blue, could i change the color to RED? i dont want the lights to conflict with the whole red/black theme.
> 
> what else would i need with the kit? and since i want some red tubing, how much of it would i need from frozen cpu?
> 
> btw does this look good so far:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is 6 feet enough?


Yeah it's easy to start looking at these kits once the all in one solution novelty has worn off. I was eagerly awaiting H80 and H100 reviews but they were pretty poor (IMO) and that set my mind to going RASA, and boy am I glad I did. I've learned a lot and the look is vastly better than an all in one.

Regarding your choices 6 feet should be plenty for a small CPU loop. I used less than 4 feet when I made mine. I used Tygon clear antibacterial tubing and have been very happy with the result but Primochill does seem to be the other preffered option. The LED in the res is blue as you feared but it's very simple to change it out, it's actually just a loose LED on the end of a wire, you plug it in via a molex. So you'll trivially be able to make a red or whatever LED to replace it.

All I needed was my kit, tubing, distilled water, and silver kill coil, so your list looks fine


----------



## jfuze

Hey guys, im seriously considering the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 but ive got a question. My case is a Lian Li Lancool K58W which has 2 140mm fan slots at the top.

If i use a bracket like this should the RS240 radiator fit just fine?


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfuze;14528781*
> Hey guys, im seriously considering the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 but ive got a question. My case is a Lian Li Lancool K58W which has 2 140mm fan slots at the top.
> 
> If i use a bracket like this should the RS240 radiator fit just fine?


hey dont see why it shouldn't work,
seems like a good idea to me
u can mount a rad anywhere if u have to, i have a 240 in an antec 100,
fellow owners would agree no watercooling specials there but a little DIY and it is all good


----------



## CramComplex

Just to rave on the RS240 kit right now (7:12am Toronto 8/10/2011)...with my old Mugen2 at around 22*C ambient I'm running on 3.5ghz @ 35*C idle and 48*C load...

now it's down to 25*C on idle and 38*C on load...i could only imagine if i upgraded to dual RS240's or swapped out my RS240 for an RX360...OMG!!!


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CramComplex*


Just to rave on the RS240 kit right now (7:12am Toronto 8/10/2011)...with my old Mugen2 at around 22*C ambient I'm running on 3.5ghz @ 35*C idle and 48*C load...

now it's down to 25*C on idle and 38*C on load...i could only imagine if i upgraded to dual RS240's or swapped out my RS240 for an RX360...OMG!!!


*hands CramComplex a Tissue for jizz removal







* 
My system should be here within a day or two, I was also thinking of doing a dual RS240 rad, I first want to check my temps on a single RS240. Should be enough to get my 970 to 4.4GHZ without breaking a sweat


----------



## Retrolock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;14519632*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RS120 and Razor 6970 added to my loop along with some black tubing.
> Need to give my case a good clean too.
> 
> Next purchase will be a new camera, this old Fuji Finepix just can't make it...


is it me or your tubings from rad to res/pump is kinking?


----------



## Frontsidebus

No, just looks like it. I'm not happy with the rad to gpu though, might have to get some angled connectors.


----------



## jdangond

Finally got around to fixing the kink going from the 120 rad to the graphics card.

Before:









After:


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdangond;14537166*
> Finally got around to fixing the kink going from the 120 rad to the graphics card.


Nice. That looks much better.


----------



## Cwolfer

Hi guys --

So I am trying to install my first watercooling loop ever! I have the Rasa 750 RX360 kit and the HAF 932 case.

For the life of me, I can't figure out how to mount the rad on the top. I've removed the top fan, and see the screw holes and how they line up, but I don't know which screws to use that are long enough to go through both fan holes in the top and still secure the rad.

Would anyone be willing to (either through here or AIM or something) walk me through, baby step by baby step, how to get this thing mounted?

Thanks!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cwolfer*


Hi guys --

So I am trying to install my first watercooling loop ever! I have the Rasa 750 RX360 kit and the HAF 932 case.

For the life of me, I can't figure out how to mount the rad on the top. I've removed the top fan, and see the screw holes and how they line up, but I don't know which screws to use that are long enough to go through both fan holes in the top and still secure the rad.

Would anyone be willing to (either through here or AIM or something) walk me through, baby step by baby step, how to get this thing mounted?

Thanks!


Its usually mounted directly to the top of the case with short 6/32 screws and the fans are mounted to the rad on the bottom with the long 6/32 screws. I believe the kit only has 4 short 6/32 screws to mount the rad.


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


What size kit did you end up getting? I know you've wanted one of these for years now.







































*This tubeing at the back is where I will mount a Airplex XT 240mm Rad + paired with my XSPC RS240 Rad which I have built into my case.*









7/16 Tubeing


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14551168*
> Hi guys --
> 
> So I am trying to install my first watercooling loop ever! I have the Rasa 750 RX360 kit and the HAF 932 case.
> 
> For the life of me, I can't figure out how to mount the rad on the top. I've removed the top fan, and see the screw holes and how they line up, but I don't know which screws to use that are long enough to go through both fan holes in the top and still secure the rad.
> 
> Would anyone be willing to (either through here or AIM or something) walk me through, baby step by baby step, how to get this thing mounted?
> 
> Thanks!


The longer screws are used to mount rad in the case if you want some fans spaced between rad/case, and the shorter screws are used if it's rad and case top next to each other.

The problem I found with my 650D and which may well be your issue is that the screw holes were too large so the screws would just fall through. There was no way they would ever hold a radiator there at the top.

So what I had to do was find a few washers which made it so the screws would hold. The screw thread goes through the washer but the screw head does not so the rad is held in place.


----------



## breent

hey guys, I spent all last night modding my Corsair 600T to fit my brand new RS360.
I ended up having the water cooling loop outside my case while i leak test it and got rid of all the bubbles by shaking it all lots.
but now that its in my computer, this terrible noise is coming from the pump itself inside the res, like a medium/loud rattle noise.
i contacted XSPC about it and they asked me to send a video which i did but i have had no reply since.
is my pump meant to make this noise?


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breent*


hey guys, I spent all last night modding my Corsair 600T to fit my brand new RS360.
I ended up having the water cooling loop outside my case while i leak test it and got rid of all the bubbles by shaking it all lots.
but now that its in my computer, this terrible noise is coming from the pump itself inside the res, like a medium/loud rattle noise.
i contacted XSPC about it and they asked me to send a video which i did but i have had no reply since.
is my pump meant to make this noise?


The noize is usually cause by bubbles in the pump. I put mine together yesterday, and managed to stop it by turning off the fans, and strees testing my CPU for 30minutes until the res/pump got hot, the noize slowly faded away after a while then, I can't even hear it running now


----------



## breent

I already removed all the bubbles, but the noise is still there..


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breent*


I already removed all the bubbles, but the noise is still there..


Heat your Res/Pump up by streesing your CPU with Prime95, turn the Radiator fans off, but don't let your CPU get too hot.

Heating my XSPC 750 removed the annoying noize.


----------



## breent

didnt do anything


----------



## DEEBS808

send them a video and see what they say.


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breent*


didnt do anything










Not sure if you got a tempature sensor on your radiator, but my rad temp was about 44-46C for about 15-20 minutes before the noize started to fade away.

Hope this helps


----------



## antonr90

Had a question about loop order. I have my GPU block coming in tomorrow along with my RX120. So I'm going to have the 240 and the 120.

Should I Be going Res>240>CPU>120>GPU>120>Res? or is there a better order to go with.


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antonr90*


Had a question about loop order. I have my GPU block coming in tomorrow along with my RX120. So I'm going to have the 240 and the 120.

Should I Be going Res>240>CPU>120>GPU>120>Res? or is there a better order to go with.


Res > CPU > 120 > GPU > 240 > Res


----------



## Matt26LFC

Im pretty sure loop order doesn't really matter, what i think you need to do is just route the tubing you use the least amount of tubing and its as tidy as possible.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breent;14555262*
> hey guys, I spent all last night modding my Corsair 600T to fit my brand new RS360.
> I ended up having the water cooling loop outside my case while i leak test it and got rid of all the bubbles by shaking it all lots.
> but now that its in my computer, this terrible noise is coming from the pump itself inside the res, like a medium/loud rattle noise.
> i contacted XSPC about it and they asked me to send a video which i did but i have had no reply since.
> is my pump meant to make this noise?


hey mine is doing the same only had it in for a few days but it is loud, will be giving what the other guys have suggested (heating, giving it another good shake) over the weekend, but come Monday if its still crap i will be calling up for a new one. how have ur dealings been with them ?

let us no how its all gone ?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm;14556607*
> hey mine is doing the same only had it in for a few days but it is loud, will be giving what the other guys have suggested (heating, giving it another good shake) over the weekend, but come Monday if its still crap i will be calling up for a new one. how have ur dealings been with them ?
> 
> let us no how its all gone ?


Is the water level in your pump/res above the pump? If not, try adding a little more water, just enough to submerge the pump and see what happens?


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14556891*
> Is the water level in your pump/res above the pump? If not, try adding a little more water, just enough to submerge the pump and see what happens?


the water level is as high as it can be, so yer the pump is under water,








just tried running the whole thing without fans to get it hot , as per recommendation by another user, even with a bar heater close to the res, in 45 minutes of prime95 the temps haven't broken 60c, so even though the noise is still there, it is still an interesting result, am thinking if not gaming/oc u could have it all passive cooled,







(but being the people we are thats just a sily thought lol







)
afraid i might have to do a relpacment job, i have enough give in my tubes to pul the res out of the case so will try that and give it a really good shake up, but that is a project for a new day, thanks for the idea, and keep them coming need all the help i can get


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm;14557064*
> the water level is as high as it can be, so yer the pump is under water,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just tried running the whole thing without fans to get it hot , as per recommendation by another user, even with a bar heater close to the res, in 45 minutes of prime95 the temps haven't broken 60c, so even though the noise is still there, it is still an interesting result, am thinking if not gaming/oc u could have it all passive cooled,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (but being the people we are thats just a sily thought lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> afraid i might have to do a relpacment job, i have enough give in my tubes to pul the res out of the case so will try that and give it a really good shake up, but that is a project for a new day, thanks for the idea, and keep them coming need all the help i can get


How bad is the noise? If it's bad enough you can send a video of it to the manufacturer to get a new one sent to you. You may be one of the unlucky few to get a bad pump.


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14555602*
> Im pretty sure loop order doesn't really matter, what i think you need to do is just route the tubing you use the least amount of tubing and its as tidy as possible.


Loop order matters when you have multiple blocks in your system. The idea is that you don't want heat from you CPU going into your GPU, so you would put the 120mm right after the cpu to dissipate most of the heat before it gets to the GPU, and you would put the 240mm right after the GPU to dissipate the heat before it gets to the CPU


----------



## T1m

Ordered the 360 and it's coming today. Is it hard to install?


----------



## infected rat

It's not difficult to install as long as you work methodically and avoid rushing. Build the loop and run it for 12 hours+ to leak test it before you get any electricity near the rest of your hardware. Once that has been done successfully you should be good to go.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;14557872*
> Loop order matters when you have multiple blocks in your system. The idea is that you don't want heat from you CPU going into your GPU, so you would put the 120mm right after the cpu to dissipate most of the heat before it gets to the GPU, and you would put the 240mm right after the GPU to dissipate the heat before it gets to the CPU


The way I understood it was that it takes a lot of heat energy to heat the water up 1c so loop order in terms of the two blocks the guys running I dont think it would matter. Now if your running more than one gpu then I'd consider loop order more.

If I'm wrong feel free to correct me, I'm new to this


----------



## Starbomba

After the success of my H70 in keeping the CPU cool, i've planed to go full water in the near future, after i upgrade a bit more.

I plan to get 2x 560 Ti's and full blocks for them, and upgrade to an i7 8xx, _maybe_ even a mosfet cooler. I also plan to recycle this kit (just buy the appropiate mounts) for when Ivy and Kepler appear.

I'm considering buying a RX240 kit, and a RX120 rad, since i do not want anything hanging on the outside of my case, or if i have to put it outside, not to be that huge. Will that be enough to cool my upgraded rig? Also, how would the loop go if i do this setup?

Also, from pictures, i see the CPU coldplate is not lapped (at least not mirror lapped). Does it bring any benefit at all to lap it, or is it good enough to use it like that?

For cooling, i plan to use plain distilled water and a kill coil. As everything is copper, would i experience any corrosion? O would i have to get copper/nickel fittings?

For fans, my choice are undervolted (7v) Yate Loon Highs. Or are the included fans any good? Don't care about noise (my single slot 450's do more noise than most dual slot cards and i'm happy with them







) as long as the computer does not sound louder than my speakers (HTPC is the one that must be silent)


----------



## antonr90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomfix;14555597*
> Res > CPU > 120 > GPU > 240 > Res


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14555602*
> Im pretty sure loop order doesn't really matter, what i think you need to do is just route the tubing you use the least amount of tubing and its as tidy as possible.


Thanks both you guys, +Rep.


----------



## lightsout

So for cpu only should I get rx240 or rs240? Someone told me it doesn't matter if it's just a cpu.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## DEEBS808

I don't think it matter if you are only cooling a cpu.


----------



## antonr90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14559742*
> So for cpu only should I get rx240 or rs240? Someone told me it doesn't matter if it's just a cpu.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


240 RS is perfectly fine for just a CPU.. That's what I am running at the moment, Idle at about 22C, Load in prime at about 47-50ish.


----------



## lightsout

Cool thanks

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


So for cpu only should I get rx240 or rs240? Someone told me it doesn't matter if it's just a cpu.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


yer im agreeing with the others a RS240 is great, it's what i have and load temps never over 43c and it is a crap load thinner than an RX,
i would on go for a RX240 if u where going to get more water blocks and add extra radiators, so really it's what u plan on doing in the future that should be the deciding factor, so if u only want to do the CPU the rs240 rocks


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *george_orm*


yer im agreeing with the others a RS240 is great, it's what i have and load temps never over 43c and it is a crap load thinner than an RX,
i would on go for a RX240 if u where going to get more water blocks and add extra radiators, so really it's what u plan on doing in the future that should be the deciding factor, so if u only want to do the CPU the rs240 rocks


Your water cooling a chip that cant oc?

My concern is that if I want to expand in the future the RS 240 will be useless. Or at least I will wish for something better. But my gpu's are non reference so I'm kind of stuck there anyways. I'm thinking of just going with the RS for now.

How about this, whats better, rx240 with only push fans of rs240 with push/pull?

I don't think rx240 in p/p will fit in the top of my case.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Your water cooling a chip that cant oc?

My concern is that if I want to expand in the future the RS 240 will be useless. Or at least I will wish for something better. But my gpu's are non reference so I'm kind of stuck there anyways. I'm thinking of just going with the RS for now.

How about this, whats better, rx240 with only push fans of rs240 with push/pull?

I don't think rx240 in p/p will fit in the top of my case.


RX240 with push or pull.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


RX240 with push or pull.


So its that much better huh. ok


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Your water cooling a chip that cant oc?

My concern is that if I want to expand in the future the RS 240 will be useless. Or at least I will wish for something better. But my gpu's are non reference so I'm kind of stuck there anyways. I'm thinking of just going with the RS for now.

How about this, whats better, rx240 with only push fans of rs240 with push/pull?

I don't think rx240 in p/p will fit in the top of my case.


an RX sounds like ur cup fo tea then, 
and yes sadly i cant overclock but the water cooling was a gift and plan on having new GPU,CPU and motherboard with in the next 6 months, so i reasoned may as well start the water up now,


----------



## lightsout

I think I'm just going to go rs240. Seems like it will be an easier fit. This is my first time not looking to do a bunch of modding. I do like how the performance sounds on the rx though.

Decisions decisions.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


I think I'm just going to go rs240. Seems like it will be an easier fit. This is my first time not looking to do a bunch of modding. I do like how the performance sounds on the rx though.

Decisions decisions.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


decisions indeed, 
a rs will do u fine so really dont worry, and if u are going to add a GPU in to the loop ur prob going to want a second rad any way, and rx120 for eg so performance wise with the cpu alone will be only a few degrees, ( at idle my temps are silly, it cant be reading them right, core 0 = 30c and core 2 = 13c lol, ) its when a gpu comes in that the extra heat transfer of bigger rads will be noticed, 
really like the kits my self, got a doggy pump though, will have to send it back soon, 
where u planing on buying it ? (just out of interest )


----------



## jfuze

Well this thread has sold me on the XsPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit. xD

Let me ask you guys something,... would adding on a single 120mm radiator to my rear exhaust fan make a noticeable difference? (so that would be the dual 120mm radiator up top and a single 120mm radiator in the rear)


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jfuze*


Well this thread has sold me on the XsPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit. xD

Let me ask you guys something,... would adding on a single 120mm radiator to my rear exhaust fan make a noticeable difference? (so that would be the dual 120mm radiator up top and a single 120mm radiator in the rear)


for CPU alone prob wont notice the difference, and u may as well get a 360, it is cheaper than 120 + 240, 
however a 120 will be good if u are going to add a GPU block in later, really depends on what u want to add in future, the general feeling i get from this thread is a RS240 is enough for a cpu, and add a second rad if the is a GPU involved, 
there is so many variables that all we can really do is recomend the decision will have to come down to how much u OC, and if u want to add a gpu into the loop







hope that helped, if its not enough go back and read some of the older post in this thread, there is lots of people asking should i get X Y Z ..? and there is lots of good answers


----------



## breent

Just a quick update as requested, rattling noise in my Rasa kit is still there after completely draining and refilling the loop








and i got a reply from XSPC saying that they didnt find any abnormal sounds in the video i sent them even though it is completely audible.
I have no idea what to do with this situation.
very dissapointing service from XSPC so far..


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breent*


Just a quick update as requested, rattling noise in my Rasa kit is still there after completely draining and refilling the loop








and i got a reply from XSPC saying that they didnt find any abnormal sounds in the video i sent them even though it is completely audible.
I have no idea what to do with this situation.
very dissapointing service from XSPC so far..


Post the video here please.

Also a picture of the instillation of the res if you can. (Does it make the same noise if you are holding it in your hand?)


----------



## breent

You Tube


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breent*


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8F8p_pGguQ


Hard to tell, can you do it again on something that won't make it rattle? Like a towel or your hand.


----------



## Awkwardly Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Hard to tell, can you do it again on something that won't make it rattle? Like a towel or your hand.


I am guessing the rattle is the noise. My res/pump sits on the bottom of my 5.25" bay, not secured at all and it makes no noise at all.


----------



## breent

the res/pump is sitting on a rubber lid of a printer so it shouldnt make any noise at all, but you can hear it yes?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awkwardly Awesome*


I am guessing the rattle is the noise. My res/pump sits on the bottom of my 5.25" bay, not secured at all and it makes no noise at all.


I don't think they would have said that if they thought the noise was the pump, if that is the pump and not what it's sitting on something is wrong with it. (XSPC has been pretty good about replacing the bad pumps)


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breent*


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8F8p_pGguQ


had to use head phones to hear it over my god awful pump, makes the same noise, going to try and get mine replaced, sorry to hear about ur pump, mine is really ****ting me


----------



## broke

putting the black cap back on the res reduces the noise a lot. my pump isnt silent by any stretch but it's not unbearably loud either. basically if i have no music on (like now) i can hear the pump going. sounds like im sitting next to a fish tank basically. it'll do for now but my next upgrade will be a new pump/res


----------



## breent

I put the black cap on, no difference.
XSPC arent helping much either.
This is very very annoying


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *george_orm*


decisions indeed, 
a rs will do u fine so really dont worry, and if u are going to add a GPU in to the loop ur prob going to want a second rad any way, and rx120 for eg so performance wise with the cpu alone will be only a few degrees, ( at idle my temps are silly, it cant be reading them right, core 0 = 30c and core 2 = 13c lol, ) its when a gpu comes in that the extra heat transfer of bigger rads will be noticed, 
really like the kits my self, got a doggy pump though, will have to send it back soon, 
where u planing on buying it ? (just out of interest )


I will be ordering it this weekend. Just want to get all my ducks in a row first. Make sure I order right. Can I buy a gallon of distilled water from the grocery store or does it need to be something special?


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


I will be ordering it this weekend. Just want to get all my ducks in a row first. Make sure I order right. Can I buy a gallon of distilled water from the grocery store or does it need to be something special?


from the store is fine, its all the same, if u have any problems getting some (which u wont) u can get it at the hardware store as well, it is like a dollar a litter never buy it off line because it claims to be special, u will be getting ripped off

good luck and have fun, it really is fun to open it all up and set up, made me smile


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *george_orm*


from the store is fine, its all the same, if u have any problems getting some (which u wont) u can get it at the hardware store as well, it is like a dollar a litter never buy it off line because it claims to be special, u will be getting ripped off

good luck and have fun, it really is fun to open it all up and set up, made me smile










Yah I'm excited, it seems like stock and shipping sucks on these sites but oh well. I'm getting it from jabtech its the better shipping price but they are out of silver coils. So I have to get that somewhere else.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14566018*
> Yah I'm excited, it seems like stock and shipping sucks on these sites but oh well. I'm getting it from jabtech its the better shipping price but they are out of silver coils. So I have to get that somewhere else.


for the silver coils, if u cant find ,them if u happen to have a jeweller friend, he/she might have some and u just drop it into the res,
i just got 5g of a friend in little ball shapes and dropped them into the res, works all the same as long as it is proper 99% silver







moral of the story is it doesn't have to be a coil, just as close to pure as possible


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breent;14565203*
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8F8p_pGguQ


Your problem with XSPC might be that the default volume level of that video is very low. When I first played it with my standard volume setting I couldn't really hear anything, once I turned the volume right up it is of course totally obviously not right. Maybe try getting a video with a better volume profile or even asking XSPC to listen again and make sure to turn the volume right up because it is an obvious noise.


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm;14566443*
> for the silver coils, if u cant find ,them if u happen to have a jeweller friend, he/she might have some and u just drop it into the res,
> i just got 5g of a friend in little ball shapes and dropped them into the res, works all the same as long as it is proper 99% silver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moral of the story is it doesn't have to be a coil, just as close to pure as possible


What you want is the maximum surface area exposed to water because the surface of your silver is what will release ions into the water. So a ball pretty much minimizes your surface area, where as a long thin coil maximizes your surface area. So a coil is a much better shape and purity isn't everything.


----------



## gboeds

leak testing my RS360 kit now...the waiting is torture! Mebbe if I sleep...


----------



## breent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14566831*
> Your problem with XSPC might be that the default volume level of that video is very low. When I first played it with my standard volume setting I couldn't really hear anything, once I turned the volume right up it is of course totally obviously not right. Maybe try getting a video with a better volume profile or even asking XSPC to listen again and make sure to turn the volume right up because it is an obvious noise.


I sent them another video, but with no reply.
great


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infected rat;14566844*
> What you want is the maximum surface area exposed to water because the surface of your silver is what will release ions into the water. So a ball pretty much minimizes your surface area, where as a long thin coil maximizes your surface area. So a coil is a much better shape and purity isn't everything.


ur completely right about surface area, and a coil will be better, but the 5g of balls is working just fine for me, it was just a suggestion in case he couldn't find a coil.

but i will disagree on purity, sure it probable isnt a huge problem but if its only %75 there is %25 of other stuff that u cant control, so i found it safer to just go with as pure as possable,
i will refer u to this http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?231077-Silver-as-a-Biocide-in-water-cooling

it gives a great explentaion about biocide but specificaly on silver it said
i quote "What kind of silver to use ?
Use .999 pure silver . This can be found as bar , strip , round etc at online precious metal stores . Most any jewelry store also has silver available too . Banana Power offers True Silver plated barbs and compression fittings .
Sterling does not contain enough pure silver to do the job . Plus its mixed with other stuff . I tried sterling . While it did not work very well as a biocide , it did not cause any loop issues at all .
Silver solder does not work either . It is only 8 to 10 % silver . "

so that is what i am basing my view from,
then agian _everything on the internet is true_


----------



## Atomfix




----------



## Espair




----------



## lightsout

Posting this here too.

Getting ready to order RS240 kit is this all I need?

Heres what I'm getting.

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 CPU watercooling kit

PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10 ft.)

IandH Silver KillCoil

Anything else I need?

So for fans I have 2 cooler master blade masters that I have always used with my h50, pretty good rad fans. But I need 2 more. Can't afford a set of 4. So I will probably use the CM's for the push fans. Can you recommend some cheap fans that aren't insanely loud. Was looking at yate loons but not sure which model. (or I can just use some antec tri cools)

From Jab-tech I would prefer if not then frozen cpu please.


----------



## Atomfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Espair;14569832*
> My pump died on me today!! I bought it just this year too. I contacted XSPC to see if they can do anything about it... I hope I can get a replacement, I hadnt used it even 6 months >,<


Double check the Pump's power connections, I though mine died the other week too, until I noticed that the blue wire in the Molex had popped out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14569872*
> Posting this here too.
> 
> Getting ready to order RS240 kit is this all I need?
> 
> Heres what I'm getting.
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 CPU watercooling kit
> 
> PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10 ft.)
> 
> IandH Silver KillCoil
> 
> Anything else I need?
> 
> So for fans I have 2 cooler master blade masters that I have always used with my h50, pretty good rad fans. But I need 2 more. Can't afford a set of 4. So I will probably use the CM's for the push fans. Can you recommend some cheap fans that aren't insanely loud. Was looking at yate loons but not sure which model. (or I can just use some antec tri cools)
> 
> From Jab-tech I would prefer if not then frozen cpu please.


The kit comes with 2 fans already







and it seems like you already have everything you need, you should get PT Nuke too.


----------



## lightsout

I heard the fans are no good. I think I'm gonna try the antecs first, thanks!

Can someone point me to the correct t fitting for a drain?


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Posting this here too.

Getting ready to order RS240 kit is this all I need?

Heres what I'm getting.

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 CPU watercooling kit

PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD (10 ft.)

IandH Silver KillCoil

Anything else I need?

So for fans I have 2 cooler master blade masters that I have always used with my h50, pretty good rad fans. But I need 2 more. Can't afford a set of 4. So I will probably use the CM's for the push fans. Can you recommend some cheap fans that aren't insanely loud. Was looking at yate loons but not sure which model. (or I can just use some antec tri cools)

From Jab-tech I would prefer if not then frozen cpu please.


Have you planned for draining your loop for maintenance?

I'd order an additional T-Block, 3 additional fittings and a stop-plug.


----------



## Espair

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Atomfix*


Double check the Pump's power connections, I though mine died the other week too, until I noticed that the blue wire in the Molex had popped out.


Its most def dead :'( Im a little broke, if I cant get a replacement im going to be stuck with just my laptop for a while
















I cant get the backplate for the block off without breaking the motherboard either. I accidentally knocked my fan/hs off the table trying and broke it... So I have no other way to cool my cpu if I cant get another pump. Some bad luck today : /

I heard XSPC has some good customer service though so Im hoping...


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CramComplex*


Have you planned for draining your loop for maintenance?

I'd order an additional T-Block, 3 additional fittings and a stop-plug.


Would you mind showing me what to get? Sorry don't want to get the wrong thing.


----------



## Espair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14570095*
> Would you mind showing me what to get? Sorry don't want to get the wrong thing.


I just tilt my case on its front and let the water pour from the reservoir into a big bowl. Only did it once to change the water but it worked well.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Espair;14570111*
> I just tilt my case on its front and let the water pour from the reservoir into a big bowl. Only did it once to change the water but it worked well.


Sounds a little sketchy. I'd prefer to have a drain.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14570095*
> Would you mind showing me what to get? Sorry don't want to get the wrong thing.












That drain I made consists of the following:
3 x 1/2" ID Tubing - Barb - Black Chrome (XSPC-B12BG)
1 x Fill/Drain Port Sealing Plug w/ 1/2"ID Tubing Barb -Silver Shine (NPH-ID1/2-G14)
1 x 3-way Splitter, T Block Crossconnect Adapter - Matt Black (BCPB-T)


----------



## lightsout

Thanks do you know where you got it from?

How about this, should work?

http://www.jab-tech.com/1-2-T-Line-f...r-pr-3517.html

http://www.jab-tech.com/Enzotech-Fil...4-pr-4697.html

then some fittings?

Also I know the tubing is 5/8" but the bards are 1/2". So what size clamps do you buy? 5/8?


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Thanks do you know where you got it from?

How about this, should work?

http://www.jab-tech.com/1-2-T-Line-f...r-pr-3517.html

http://www.jab-tech.com/Enzotech-Fil...4-pr-4697.html

then some fittings?


The T-Line fitting should work w/o the additional fittings...and that's the exact same fill/drain port I used only in silver.

This is the T-Block I used:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Enzotechnolo...T-pr-4742.html

Just make sure if you do use the plastic T-Line you've got some clamps to secure them.

So take your pick...

Option1:
T-Block
+
3x Barbs
+
Stop Plug

or

Option 2:
T-Line
+
Stop Plug
+
3x Clamps


----------



## lightsout

Ok thats great man thanks a lot. rep added, appreciate it!


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Ok thats great man thanks a lot. rep added, appreciate it!


Thanks! Glad to help!


----------



## lightsout

Orders are in!! I hope to get it all before next weekend and set it up on saturday. woot!


----------



## gboeds

OK, she's finished, up and running, I'm in!


----------



## lightsout

So could this pump handle 2 x 240 rads? If I get a RS240 for cpu can I just throw in another 240 for my gpu? (possibly 2 gpu's)?


----------



## Wasd.alltheway

I have a question about the rs240.
I will be getting an rs240 soon and I am wondering if I should ditch the stock fans and use 2 antec tricool 120s that will be right where the rad Is going?

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.277107,-82.991284


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wasd.alltheway*


I have a question about the rs240.
I will be getting an rs240 soon and I am wondering if I should ditch the stock fans and use 2 antec tricool 120s that will be right where the rad Is going?

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.277107,-82.991284


Antec Tricool 120s are very loud and very annoying. I have 14 of them in my closet now collecting dust. I would pick up Gentle Typhoon AP-15's fans or Yate Loons to save on cash.

High speed is pretty much the only useful speed on the Antec 120s and its loud.


----------



## Wasd.alltheway

I have them there quiet and I already have 2 that I could use Im can't buy anymore fans

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.277124,-82.991252


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wasd.alltheway*


I have them there quiet and I already have 2 that I could use Im can't buy anymore fans

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.277124,-82.991252


The lower speeds on the Antec don't move much air at all compared to the gentle typhoons.
If you don't care much about the noise then just use the Antec 120s and upgrade down the road. The stock fans are not the greatest either.


----------



## Wasd.alltheway

What would be better the stock or my antecs

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.277087,-82.991220


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


So could this pump handle 2 x 240 rads? If I get a RS240 for cpu can I just throw in another 240 for my gpu? (possibly 2 gpu's)?


Radiators are non-restrictive.
*edit*
Shouldn't say that, they are restrictive. It's just a small amount of restriction.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Radiators are non-restrictive.
*edit*
Shouldn't say that, they are restrictive. It's just a small amount of restriction.


So if I later added a second 240 and a universal block on my gpu I would be all good? Sweet

Lots of people say the pump sucks, I guess I will find out.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


So if I later added a second 240 and a universal block on my gpu I would be all good? Sweet

Lots of people say the pump sucks, I guess I will find out.


The pump isn't the best, but it should be able to handle cpu + 3 gpus, so long as the water blocks are not too restrictive.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


The pump isn't the best, but it should be able to handle cpu + 3 gpus, so long as the water blocks are not too restrictive.


3 gpu's? Awesome.


----------



## jetboy623

What is the current/wattage rating on the fans included with the kits?

Thanks.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


What is the current/wattage rating on the fans included with the kits?

Thanks.


depends if u get the RS or RX, all i know for sure is 
RS u get rans that are 12 v at 0.18a and are 1200rpm
the RX im not sure on V or A but they run at 800rpm so u cold assume less
hope that helps 
and the fans that it comes with aren't that bad, they pull air just fine, getting 6 high end fans for a rad might make 4-5c difference on a really hot OC but for everyday stuff the fans that come with it are whisper quite and work absolutely fine, so spending $60 + dollars on fans is a bit over top for the average spender (deferentially so in my case ) i would def save the 60+ and put it towards the next upgrade or GPU water block,


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *george_orm*


depends if u get the RS or RX, all i know for sure is 
RS u get rans that are 12 v at 0.18a and are 1200rpm
the RX im not sure on V or A but they run at 800rpm so u cold assume less
hope that helps 
and the fans that it comes with aren't that bad, they pull air just fine, getting 6 high end fans for a rad might make 4-5c difference on a really hot OC but for everyday stuff the fans that come with it are whisper quite and work absolutely fine, so spending $60 + dollars on fans is a bit over top for the average spender (deferentially so in my case ) i would def save the 60+ and put it towards the next upgrade or GPU water block,










Okay, I have the RS360, so that covered it^^^

Thanks for the detailed reply! +REP


----------



## flyingmoose

Just received my RS360 kit a few days ago. I have had a lot of fun figuring out a way to mount the rad. Ended up getting out the dremel tool to cut some small holes in the grill on the top of my level 10gt (this case is not WC friendly if you want to keep it all inside). This was the last step in my recent build with all new everything. Here are a few pics







.







oh and the leds are not purple my camera seems to think blue is purple for some reason......


----------



## ALUCARDVPR

Been water cooling for a few weeks now. I have to say I love it.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALUCARDVPR;14577018*
> Been water cooling for a few weeks now. I have to say I love it.


Looks nice! You need to get those cards under too


----------



## breent

XSPC have told me they will send a replacement res/pump








I will have pics up sometime this week


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breent;14577225*
> XSPC have told me they will send a replacement res/pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have pics up sometime this week


Good! They ship them pretty fast, so probably a few days.


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breent;14577225*
> XSPC have told me they will send a replacement res/pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have pics up sometime this week


Awesome. Anecdotally they seem pretty decent at resolving these issues, at least you got them on the right track after an initial misfire.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breent;14577225*
> XSPC have told me they will send a replacement res/pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have pics up sometime this week


XSPC shipped from Hong Kong and I think I got a replacement in a couple of days. They're ridiculously fast.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breent;14577225*
> XSPC have told me they will send a replacement res/pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have pics up sometime this week


awesome, good for u, will begin the process myself tomorrow, any tips ?


----------



## Espair

I just contacted them yesterday as well about my pump, they told me they'd ship me a replacement (yayyy!). I hope the shipping is as fast as you guys say but im not complaining if its not.








Cant wait to get my pc working again >,<

@george, they might need the invoice from when you purchased the kit, I was lucky I kept mine lying around.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm;14575895*
> depends if u get the RS or RX, all i know for sure is
> RS u get rans that are 12 v at 0.18a and are 1200rpm
> the RX im not sure on V or A but they run at 800rpm so u cold assume less
> hope that helps
> and the fans that it comes with aren't that bad, they pull air just fine, getting 6 high end fans for a rad might make 4-5c difference on a really hot OC but for everyday stuff the fans that come with it are whisper quite and work absolutely fine, so spending $60 + dollars on fans is a bit over top for the average spender (deferentially so in my case ) i would def save the 60+ and put it towards the next upgrade or GPU water block,


Its funny how some say they are total junk. Thanks or the insight. I may just use them.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14578751*
> Its funny how some say they are total junk. Thanks or the insight. I may just use them.


I got Xigmatek fans as replacements and didn't see much if at all any temperature improvements. They look a hell of a lot better though!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry;14579967*
> I got Xigmatek fans as replacements and didn't see much if at all any temperature improvements. They look a hell of a lot better though!


Lol thats true. I am going to run x4 CM blade masters. Just a basic black look which I want for the rad.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14581593*
> Lol thats true. I am going to run x4 CM blade masters. Just a basic black look which I want for the rad.


nice








at the end of the day, we all want our water to look awesome








and be kick ass all at the same time


----------



## Frontsidebus

I got 1700rpm Xigmatek's with my RS kit.


----------



## spRICE

So I've been idling at about 47c. I know that's really bad with a 3.8GHz oc on my proc. I am using the stock paste so that might be part of it. Also, I think I damaged my CPU when I did a torture run on it. I got up to 94c







Is it possible that I damaged my CPU? I think that I was idling pretty high on my H50 as well.


----------



## LivingChampion

I was wondering if someone here could answer my question.

Heres my case: http://www.xionusa.com/Product-case-AXP970-001BK.asp

I was wondering if a RX360 Radiator could fit inside the case on the top panel. The case says it fits a dual 120mm radiator, but would it have trouble fitting a RX360 rad?


----------



## spRICE

It looks like you could fit a 360 in the top. The problem is that it would have no exhaust unless you modded the top of the case. It would only have the cooling capacity of a dual radiator.


----------



## LivingChampion

Well the case has two exhaust 120mm fans that I've installed on the top. Or do you mean that I would have to remove the fans so the radiator will fit? I've never watercooled before so I'm just trying to sulk in information before I start.


----------



## yoyo711

I was wondering if someone here could answer my question Please








I have Rs360 rad and my ide is 48c If I change to RX360 rad it get Lower temp ?????

Thanks


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoyo711*


I was wondering if someone here could answer my question Please








I have Rs360 rad and my ide is 48c If I change to RX360 rad it get Lower temp ?????

Thanks


I believe your idle should be lower all ready. I have a rs240, and 2500k, haven't done much playing around as I just got it today, but my idle is 32C. Are you just cooling your CPU?


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anubis1127*


I believe your idle should be lower all ready. I have a rs240, and 2500k, haven't done much playing around as I just got it today, but my idle is 32C. Are you just cooling your CPU?


Thanks for the reply
I only cooling my CPU. It's too high ?????
My CPU OC to 5.0Ghz and voltage is 1.42v









Thanks

EDIT : I have Rs360 rad and my ide is 38c If I change to RX360 rad it get Lower temp ?????

38c not 48c


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


So I've been idling at about 47c. I know that's really bad with a 3.8GHz oc on my proc. I am using the stock paste so that might be part of it. Also, I think I damaged my CPU when I did a torture run on it. I got up to 94c







Is it possible that I damaged my CPU? I think that I was idling pretty high on my H50 as well.


My chip runs pretty hot also, but 94c sounds extreme, you did take off both protective films on the cpu block? Check inside the water block to see if anything is impeding the flow.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


Well the case has two exhaust 120mm fans that I've installed on the top. Or do you mean that I would have to remove the fans so the radiator will fit? I've never watercooled before so I'm just trying to sulk in information before I start.


A 360 rad would take three 120mm fans to cool properly, you only have two exhaust holes in the top of your case. Which means you would have 2 fans moving air on the radiator, thus similar performance to a 240 radiator. As spRICE said you would have to mod the case for a third hole for the fan.


----------



## theturbofd

Question I'm getting a RX 360 but what would be a good block for my GTX 480? and what other hardware should I buy with the kit


----------



## Agenesis

Anyone here looked into water chillers? I forgot to turn my ac off this morning and my room was blistering cold, so I decided to start up linx to warm things up and my 930 at 4.2 barely hit 45c at peak...pretty amazing stuff.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theturbofd*


Question I'm getting a RX 360 but what would be a good block for my GTX 480? and what other hardware should I buy with the kit


I really like the AquagraFX 480 water block, great cooling across the entire card, low restriction, looks awesome.

You'll want to replace the tubing, as the stuff that comes with the kit isn't very good. The PrimoChill PrimoFlex tubing is nice, you can get 7/16in or 1/2in tubing. (Use 7/16in tubing for a more secure fit) You could also get compression fittings if you like them.

Other than that you don't really need anything else hardware wise.

You'll need a KillCoil or Ptnuke, and distilled water also.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


Anyone here looked into water chillers? I forgot to turn my ac off this morning and my room was blistering cold, so I decided to start up linx to warm things up and my 930 at 4.2 barely hit 45c at peak...pretty amazing stuff.


I've been thinking about it, they're pretty costly though. I'm rather happy with my current temps and a chiller would just be a luxury.


----------



## ezveedub

Chillers are more elaborate and draw more electricity. You're basically going to run everything cooler, but with no additional increase in OC ability. Only DICE and LN2 give you more, but thats for benchmarks only.


----------



## ALUCARDVPR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14577110*
> Looks nice! You need to get those cards under too


Thanks! Indeed I do - any recommendations on blocks for 460s? - not that they need them


----------



## breent

Just some pictures of the Rasa setup and the mod to my 600T








another view:








and I cut some of the top metal to fit the RS360:








Sorry for the bad lighting, haha.
Oh and I forgot to mention I have a GPU water block on its way, more pics when complete








add me to the club?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14585757*
> A 360 rad would take three 120mm fans to cool properly, you only have two exhaust holes in the top of your case. Which means you would have 2 fans moving air on the radiator, thus similar performance to a 240 radiator. As spRICE said you would have to mod the case for a third hole for the fan.


HAF 932 works just fine with 360 rads, check these pictures : http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/11304-cooler-master-haf-932-case-review-12.html


----------



## Frontsidebus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;14585772*
> Anyone here looked into water chillers? I forgot to turn my ac off this morning and my room was blistering cold, so I decided to start up linx to warm things up and my 930 at 4.2 barely hit 45c at peak...pretty amazing stuff.


When I have my AC on I can get some neat temps. Normally it'l only cool to 16'c but I can hotwire the sensor in the evaporator wall unit so it thinks it's 10'c hotter then it really is. 6'c room temp.... Fridge room!







Only done it twice for teh lol's. Uses quite a bit of electricity... 20'c is just right for me.


----------



## ALUCARDVPR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67;14587715*
> HAF 932 works just fine with 360 rads, check these pictures : http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/11304-cooler-master-haf-932-case-review-12.html


The case Taylorsci was responding about is a XION Predator, who said anything about a 932?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LivingChampion;14584885*
> I was wondering if someone here could answer my question.
> 
> Heres my case: http://www.xionusa.com/Product-case-AXP970-001BK.asp
> 
> I was wondering if a RX360 Radiator could fit inside the case on the top panel. The case says it fits a dual 120mm radiator, but would it have trouble fitting a RX360 rad?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALUCARDVPR;14589479*
> The case Taylorsci was responding about is a XION Predator, who said anything about a 932?


Thanks for that, I was just about to say the same thing.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALUCARDVPR;14586439*
> Thanks! Indeed I do - any recommendations on blocks for 460s? - not that they need them


I have the Razor 460 blocks on my GPU's and they work great! I was hitting 75c on full load (probably because it's summer). That was just a little too hot for me. I've changed the TIM twice using Gelid's TIM and noctua's TIM with the reference coolers, and the cards still get hot. After slapping those razor blocks on, my cards, they dont get over 48c on default settings. When the cards are overclocked, the temps. do not go over 56c. (im currently using Noctua TIM). Here's what the blocks would look like on the 460's;


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALUCARDVPR;14586439*
> Thanks! Indeed I do - any recommendations on blocks for 460s? - not that they need them


I love my 470 waterblock, they also make a 460 version. I'm not sure how good the 460 version is but I would expect it to be very similar in performance to my block. I've never even seen 50c on this one, 27c ambient and I get 48c max folding, ~43-45 gaming. 1.187v 890/1780/1500 overclock.

AquagraFX 460


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I love my 470 waterblock, they also make a 460 version. I'm not sure how good the 460 version is but I would expect it to be very similar in performance to my block. I've never even seen 50c on this one, 27c ambient and I get 48c max folding, ~43-45 gaming. 1.187v 890/1780/1500 overclock.

AquagraFX 460



That's a nice GPU block! I've only seen Koolance and Xspc offer 460 blocks. Nice to see that another option is available.


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


My chip runs pretty hot also, but 94c sounds extreme, you did take off both protective films on the cpu block? Check inside the water block to see if anything is impeding the flow.

A 360 rad would take three 120mm fans to cool properly, you only have two exhaust holes in the top of your case. Which means you would have 2 fans moving air on the radiator, thus similar performance to a 240 radiator. As spRICE said you would have to mod the case for a third hole for the fan.


I see







What would be the best water cooling kit option for my case then? I would like to have 1 radiator that fits 1 CPU and 2 GPU's.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jfuze*


Hey guys, im seriously considering the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 but ive got a question. My case is a Lian Li Lancool K58W which has 2 140mm fan slots at the top.

If i use a bracket like this should the RS240 radiator fit just fine?


You can use the Black Ice Stealth 280mm gen 2 rad, it fits without mod in the top where the top 2 140mm fans go and just put the fans inside, thats what im gonna do but need to find a good 140mm fan for rad.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


I see







What would be the best water cooling kit option for my case then? I would like to have 1 radiator that fits 1 CPU and 2 GPU's.


You should get an RX360 and mount it externally if that's the only option. You could also just get a new case that would allow you to mount it internally.


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


You should get an RX360 and mount it externally if that's the only option. You could also just get a new case that would allow you to mount it internally.


Whats the best option for internal mounting? What if I just use the RX360 with only 2 120mm fans? Will it be a waste of money and can I still run 2 GPUs(in the future) and 1 CPU? I want to be able to run watercooling internally. What other options do I have for this type of set up?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


Whats the best option for internal mounting? What if I just use the RX360 with only 2 120mm fans? Will it be a waste of money and can I still run 2 GPUs(in the future) and 1 CPU? I want to be able to run watercooling internally. What other options do I have for this type of set up?


The problem is I don't think a 360 will fit at all in your case. It's made for a 240 in the top.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


Whats the best option for internal mounting? What if I just use the RX360 with only 2 120mm fans? Will it be a waste of money and can I still run 2 GPUs(in the future) and 1 CPU? I want to be able to run watercooling internally. What other options do I have for this type of set up?


v What he said. That case defiantly does not look like it could easily accommodate an RX/RS 360.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


The problem is I don't think a 360 will fit at all in your case. It's made for a 240 in the top.


----------



## ALUCARDVPR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14589909*
> I have the Razor 460 blocks on my GPU's and they work great! I was hitting 75c on full load (probably because it's summer). That was just a little too hot for me. I've changed the TIM twice using Gelid's TIM and noctua's TIM with the reference coolers, and the cards still get hot. After slapping those razor blocks on, my cards, they dont get over 48c on default settings. When the cards are overclocked, the temps. do not go over 56c. (im currently using Noctua TIM). Here's what the blocks would look like on the 460's;


Nice blocks! XSPC has been good to me so far









Whoa, my 460s never go over 55C and I fold on them 24/7 overclocked. They are still in stock trim, never messed with TIM. Is this something that gets worse over time?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14590220*
> I love my 470 waterblock, they also make a 460 version. I'm not sure how good the 460 version is but I would expect it to be very similar in performance to my block. I've never even seen 50c on this one, 27c ambient and I get 48c max folding, ~43-45 gaming. 1.187v 890/1780/1500 overclock.
> 
> AquagraFX 460


Sweet blocks. I'll have to look into those.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALUCARDVPR;14596162*
> Nice blocks! XSPC has been good to me so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whoa, my 460s never go over 55C and I fold on them 24/7 overclocked. They are still in stock trim, never messed with TIM. Is this something that gets worse over time?
> 
> Sweet blocks. I'll have to look into those.


To put it into perspective I was getting 80c on air @ 1.087v 750/1500/1600, and it's 900/1800/1600 @ 1.87v for gaming. Folding is 890/1780/1600, my gaming clocks are not folding stable. I got a lot more overclock under water than I could on air.


----------



## mark4d

would i get better temps if my loop was like cpu to rad rad to res res to cpu right now my setup is hot water in res to the 120rad 120rad to the 360rad to the cpu idle temps r 35/50 on max heat prime95 1.5vcore 4.1ghz ill add pics so u can c what i am talking about


----------



## jamesman32

Hey guys, I just purchased a Rasa RS240 kit, and a second RS240 radiator and RS120 radiator to go along with the kit, as well as some 7/16 ID Tygon R-3603 tubing. I put the whole loop together and it went off without a hitch. I've loved it so far, but I've realized that after 3 weeks or so running the system, the tubing has acquired a green tint.

When I build the loop I flushed all the rads with boiled water by pouring it in, letting it sit for 10 minutes, shaking the rad for 3 minutes, and rinsing out, and repeating the whole process. I did this with each radiator about 5 times, and then did a final rinse through with distilled water. I ran hot distilled through all of the tubing, fittings, reservoir and cpu block. I dropped a KillCoil in the res and filled it all up with distilled.

After 3 weeks, I noticed a slight haze and green tint in the tubing, but looking into the XSPC reservoir front cover I could see all the way through the res from front to back with 0 haze or tint. It was crystal clear. Only the tubing was foggy. So, I researched and found that it was either algae or plasticizing. I took the opportunity to drain and flush and refill the whole system (also gave me time to reconfigure the loop a little for shorter tubing lengths, which has actually dropped my temps by about 2c!).

Some of the tubing is what I've used the past 3 weeks, and some pieces are extra I had left over initially. I can see a slight difference between the color and clarity of the old and new. To be sure that the problem was plasticizing and not algae, I cut open some of the old tubing and rubbed my fingers in it to feel for that "slime". I couldn't feel anything, and I also couldn't remove anything from the inside of the tubing, so I don't think there's any algae film lining the tubing.

For comparison, I've cut small sections of the used and new tubing. What do you guys think? Algae or Plasticization?


----------



## ALUCARDVPR

Tygon 3603 is notorious for discoloring. Its basically the plasticizers in the tubing leaching.

Check out Primochill ProLRT or Tygon B-44-4 (food grade)

As long as you have a pure silver killcoil it's not likely to be algae.


----------



## jamesman32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALUCARDVPR;14597167*
> Tygon 3603 is notorious for discoloring. Its basically the plasticizers in the tubing leaching.
> 
> Check out Primochill ProLRT or Tygon B-44-4 (food grade)
> 
> As long as you have a pure silver killcoil it's not likely to be algae.


Ok, thanks for the reassurance! I'm not too bothered by the color, I was just a little worried. By the way, are there any ways to color a loop's liquid without using the block-clogging dyes? I've heard people use anti-freeze for it's property of lowering freezing point, but wouldn't it also dye the liquid in the loop a green color?


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamesman32;14597248*
> Ok, thanks for the reassurance! I'm not too bothered by the color, I was just a little worried. By the way, are there any ways to color a loop's liquid without using the block-clogging dyes? I've heard people use anti-freeze for it's property of lowering freezing point, but wouldn't it also dye the liquid in the loop a green color?


I read somewhere on this forum it's better to use coloured tubing then dyes. They work pretty much the same. You put your distilled water + killcoil then you can get clear tubing which turns blue under UV. There's a ton of other colours available though. I think primochill makes over 10 different tubing colours.


----------



## LivingChampion

So, I'm assuming my case would have trouble running 2 radiators also. What if I just buy the single RX240 and cool my CPU and GPU for now, and when I SLI 580s and remove the CPU waterloop/block, would it be enough to cool two overclocked 580s better than air cooling? Also, would a RX360 have given me much superior temperatures than the RX240?

Edit: Hmm, can 120mm radiators be pinned to where my 120mm exhaust fan is? I'm thinking of putting a RX240 on top and buying an 120mm radiator and hook that up to my back exhaust when I get my second card kind of like how H70s work. Seems reasonable, but I have no experience at all if this is even possible (sorry if I sound like an idiot).

This way, I can have 3 things hooked up to watercooling. Will two overclocked cards have bad cooling for just a dual RX240?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LivingChampion;14597725*
> So, I'm assuming my case would have trouble running 2 radiators also. What if I just buy the single RX240 and cool my CPU and GPU for now, and when I SLI 580s and remove the CPU waterloop/block, would it be enough to cool two overclocked 580s better than air cooling? Also, would a RX360 have given me much superior temperatures than the RX240?
> 
> Edit: Hmm, can 120mm radiators be pinned to where my 120mm exhaust fan is? I'm thinking of putting a RX240 on top and buying an 120mm radiator and hook that up to my back exhaust when I get my second card kind of like how H70s work. Seems reasonable, but I have no experience at all if this is even possible (sorry if I sound like an idiot)


I think it would be okay with two 580's, probably not the best temps in the world though (likely better than noisy air).

Yes an RX360 would be better for your situation

Yes some people put a 120 rad in the exhaust space, I don't know if that would work okay with your case or not though.

*EDIT*
I looked at your case again and I don't think you have the clearance for an RX240. The cooler they have in the top looks thinner than the RX240 and it's really close to the mobo. (It's hard to tell from the pictures though)


----------



## jamesman32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14597542*
> I read somewhere on this forum it's better to use coloured tubing then dyes. They work pretty much the same. You put your distilled water + killcoil then you can get clear tubing which turns blue under UV. There's a ton of other colours available though. I think primochill makes over 10 different tubing colours.


Oh I know, like I said in my previous post, I've read all over as well that the UV dyes clog up blocks like nobody's business. I was just wondering if anyone had tried clear tubing with something like food coloring added to the water instead?

I've looked all over google and according to some people the food coloring has devastating effects on the restriction of radiators as it clogs them up completely, and others say it has no effect on anything whatsoever.


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14597867*
> I think it would be okay with two 580's, probably not the best temps in the world though (likely better than noisy air).
> 
> Yes an RX360 would be better for your situation
> 
> Yes some people put a 120 rad in the exhaust space, I don't know if that would work okay with your case or not though.
> 
> *EDIT*
> I looked at your case again and I don't think you have the clearance for an RX240. The cooler they have in the top looks thinner than the RX240 and it's really close to the mobo. (It's hard to tell from the pictures though)


What kind of load temps are we talking here with an RX240 radiator on 2 overclocked 580s (heavily overclocked per-say, so we have a good number)


----------



## george_orm

hey,

was a bit disappointed with the kit, as i got a bad pump, but still awesome temps so i started the email process with xspc an hour ago and already they are asking for the address to send the replacement to, very good serves, very impressed,









and in relation to how much radiator you want, i recommend look at the stock coolers and try and get at least that much worth of rad in size, so two 580's (couldn't remember if cpu as well) a rx240 would be a min in my eyes, go for the rx360 just for the fact that it is about the size of all the stock coolers tied together and will ensure that u get the temps that you really want,
and if u have to external mount it isnt the end of the world, i have, but what u do is instead of handing it of the back ( i dont like the look of that ) you drill 4 holes in the top of your case and use the stand offs that come with the kit, and all of a sudden it looks good







just one awesome rad on top of your rig









hope all goes well with your WC ing


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ALUCARDVPR*


Nice blocks! XSPC has been good to me so far









Whoa, my 460s never go over 55C and I fold on them 24/7 overclocked. They are still in stock trim, never messed with TIM. Is this something that gets worse over time?

Sweet blocks. I'll have to look into those.


Im not sure, I changed my TIM because I painted my shroud's white. But, my temps are fine now since I put them under water.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


What kind of load temps are we talking here with an RX240 radiator on 2 overclocked 580s (heavily overclocked per-say, so we have a good number)


Uhh, I can't really be that specific, I don't know the thermal dissipation for the RX240 with stock fans. If you don't mind an uneducated guess I'd say probably in the 70's max. Someone else please chime in if you can give a proper answer.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hey guys, got my Heatkiller block in my loop now and the temps on are amazing!! Idle is 28C and load so far is 37C, thats playing Crysis 2 @ 1080P DX11 High Texture pack and details to Ultra.

CPU temps seem the same even after cleaning the block out. Hit 51C during Prime95 Large FFTs at Stock Frequency. Just doesn't seem that great to me, very happy with GPU though.


----------



## DKTR62

Hi all,
I have the xspc rs240 kit and i plan to add another rad in my loop.
What's best rs240 or rx120 ? Is there a big difference between rs240 and the rx240 ?
Thx


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;14603877*
> Hey guys, got my Heatkiller block in my loop now and the temps on are amazing!! Idle is 28C and load so far is 37C, thats playing Crysis 2 @ 1080P DX11 High Texture pack and details to Ultra.
> 
> CPU temps seem the same even after cleaning the block out. Hit 51C during Prime95 Large FFTs at Stock Frequency. Just doesn't seem that great to me, very happy with GPU though.


Most people end up not being impressed with the cpu, it really shines with gpus IMO.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14607260*
> Most people end up not being impressed with the cpu, it really shines with gpus IMO.


So what can you do to help the cpu issue?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14607392*
> So what can you do to help the cpu issue?


Water chiller / phase change

It's not really that water cooling isn't better than air, it's just people think it's going to be better than it is (for the cpu).


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14603666*
> Uhh, I can't really be that specific, I don't know the thermal dissipation for the RX240 with stock fans. If you don't mind an uneducated guess I'd say probably in the 70's max. Someone else please chime in if you can give a proper answer.


70s max would be pretty crappy haha. If thats the real temps I would get then I'd rather stick to air cooling.


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LivingChampion;14607995*
> 70s max would be pretty crappy haha. If thats the real temps I would get then I'd rather stick to air cooling.


From what I've seen 60~70c would be the average ballpark with push/pull. Just remember that watercooling is neat because it gives headroom to overclock and offers a greater heat dissipation capacity than air cooling.

One example is such that you can leave your gpu on stock clocks and it'll peak at 60c, or you can overclock it to hell and it'll peak at 65, all at the same time never breaking a certain magical threshold number - be it 68,69,70, or whichever.

You can't do that on air.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14607670*
> Water chiller / phase change
> 
> It's not really that water cooling isn't better than air, it's just people think it's going to be better than it is (for the cpu).


Oh ok I thought you meant something with this kit was limiting.


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14585757*
> My chip runs pretty hot also, but 94c sounds extreme, you did take off both protective films on the cpu block? Check inside the water block to see if anything is impeding the flow.


Oh oops i forgot to clarify that when I was at 94c, I was using a zalman 9700 with absolutely no fans running in that case







Just being a bit of an idiot.


----------



## Phry

Right now I'm running a Silver Arrow with max temps of 88c @1.448vcore running 5Ghz during P95 Blend. Do you think it'd be worth it to pick up the RS240 Kit? I do plan to Crossfire in the future and so my case will end up getting quite a bit warmer.

Thanks!


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phry;14608980*
> Right now I'm running a Silver Arrow with max temps of 88c @1.448vcore running 5Ghz during P95 Blend. Do you think it'd be worth it to pick up the RS240 Kit? I do plan to Crossfire in the future and so my case will end up getting quite a bit warmer.
> 
> Thanks!


I would 88c is really pushing it. I would think you would see temps around 70c with the kit


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Most people end up not being impressed with the cpu, it really shines with gpus IMO.


It seems that way, its when you see other peoples results with similar setups and they do better you start to think somethings wrong with what you've done lol. I've got more testing to do see how it goes. But yeah well impressed with the gpu block, will be saving for another now as I've only got one card under water.


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


From what I've seen 60~70c would be the average ballpark with push/pull. Just remember that watercooling is neat because it gives headroom to overclock and offers a greater heat dissipation capacity than air cooling.

One example is such that you can leave your gpu on stock clocks and it'll peak at 60c, or you can overclock it to hell and it'll peak at 65, all at the same time never breaking a certain magical threshold number - be it 68,69,70, or whichever.

You can't do that on air.


Will this superior heat dissipation provide better overclocks even with the temps identical to air cooling? My 580 maxes out around 65load depending on the game and how long I'm playing.


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


Will this superior heat dissipation provide better overclocks even with the temps identical to air cooling? My 580 maxes out around 65load depending on the game and how long I'm playing.


In reality, you'll hit a physical chip limitation way before the temperature actually starts to do anything, so no, watercooling will not magically enable you to have a golden chip or anything of the sort; but if by any chance you do have a chip that happens to be an excellent overclocker and/or the temperature IS the limiting factor (gf100), then watercooling will be a godsend.

For your scenario if you're happy with your current overclock and is content with the noise, then the obvious choice would be staying with air.

And another thing is that for me once the 580 hits 60% fan speed it becomes the loudest part in my system and is quite unbearable.


----------



## ALUCARDVPR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Most people end up not being impressed with the cpu, it really shines with gpus IMO.


I'm running 38C max Core Temp under full load at 4.5GHZ. I'd say I'm impressed


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


In reality, you'll hit a physical chip limitation way before the temperature actually starts to do anything, so no, watercooling will not magically enable you to have a golden chip or anything of the sort; but if by any chance you do have a chip that happens to be an excellent overclocker and/or the temperature IS the limiting factor (gf100), then watercooling will be a godsend.

For your scenario if you're happy with your current overclock and is content with the noise, then the obvious choice would be staying with air.

And another thing is that for me once the 580 hits 60% fan speed it becomes the loudest part in my system and is quite unbearable.


I have no issues with the noise, so upgrading to watercooling is mainly for overclocking. I don't think temps are whats making my high overclocking attempts unstable. Since trying something like 1.20v and 1Ghz core will crash even if temps have not surpassed 60c yet.

So it's safe to say that water-cooling will not help at all if the temps were not the problem correct?


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


I have no issues with the noise, so upgrading to watercooling is mainly for overclocking. I don't think temps are whats making my high overclocking attempts unstable. Since trying something like 1.20v and 1Ghz core will crash even if temps have not surpassed 60c yet.

So it's safe to say that water-cooling will not help at all if the temps were not the problem correct?


1.2v on stock cooling? People are afraid to go that high even on water, I think you need to get your overclock sorted out before you think about anything.

But yes, if temperature is not the limiting factor then watercooling will certainty not help.


----------



## Purplz

Hey guys, long time reader first time poster. Woo! Got the kit on Monday and leak tested for 24h, got her up and running now:










VERY satisfied. Definitely a huge difference in temperatures. The temps I was getting at idle are now my full load temperatures.


----------



## breent

^ very nice.
My GPU block just arrived and I have it all attached to my 6870, now i just have to wait for XSPC to get my replacement pump/res to my house :/


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breent*


^ very nice.
My GPU block just arrived and I have it all attached to my 6870, now i just have to wait for XSPC to get my replacement pump/res to my house :/


hey 
xspx have said they will replace my pump/res as well but when they asked for a phone number they then haven't called for a full day and a half ? 
did they ask you for there phone number ?


----------



## breent

Quote:



Originally Posted by *george_orm*


hey 
xspx have said they will replace my pump/res as well but when they asked for a phone number they then haven't called for a full day and a half ? 
did they ask you for there phone number ?


Yeah they did ask for my number, they dont contact you but apparently thats normal and the pump is on its way, their service is apparently also very good and shouldnt take to long to get to you.


----------



## infected rat

Indeed they probably just pass the phone number on to the courier in case there are any difficulties finding your home or whatever.


----------



## george_orm

yer i just got an email reply form them, saying that they weren't calling,
am so impressed by them, its taken two days to sort out and that is just because i started late in the day,

i will quit happily say its been great service and recommend it to anyone (not that its need, we all own the kits here anyway lol )

just got in to folding as well, really need to get my GPU under water so its not so loud want to leave it on over night but it is just so loud, arr







not going to get a full water block till the 600 serise come out and will get a good card and block then,
really inpatient for the new cards to come out, better be be fore Christmas, chuck a water block on a brand new card and fold away till the sun rises, arr the plans for the future


----------



## Annex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ALUCARDVPR*


I'm running 38C max Core Temp under full load at 4.5GHZ. I'd say I'm impressed










What are your ambient temps like?

Wish my chip was that amazing


----------



## BigD

Sorry if my question has already been answered - the size of this thread is a bit daunting!

I'm looking to know if an rx360 kit will be sufficient for an overclocked i5/i7 sandy bridge CPU and 2x 6950 flashed to 6970 and overclocked, all in a single loop? I'm contemplating building this all into my desk or something crazy like that so space and airflow etc should be very good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated - just looking for a heads up really as to if this kit will be enough for my needs.

Cheers,

BigD


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;14613393*
> What are your ambient temps like?
> 
> Wish my chip was that amazing


I'm curious too. I'm hitting 44c-45c with only a 4.0 overclock @ 1.44v. My ambient temp is 25c-26c.


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14589909*
> I have the Razor 460 blocks on my GPU's and they work great! I was hitting 75c on full load (probably because it's summer). That was just a little too hot for me. I've changed the TIM twice using Gelid's TIM and noctua's TIM with the reference coolers, and the cards still get hot. After slapping those razor blocks on, my cards, they dont get over 48c on default settings. When the cards are overclocked, the temps. do not go over 56c. (im currently using Noctua TIM). Here's what the blocks would look like on the 460's;


Those temps are horrible... I never go above 40c oced as high as I can go.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

I'm looking at getting one of these kits. I need to know if a RS240 or a RS360 kit would be best to cool my phenom II x4 955 running at 4GHz. I've got a HAF 932 on the way so i should be able to fit a 360 rad in.

I will replace the tubing that comes with the kit with some primochill tubing as i've heard that the tubing the the rasa kits discolour over time and kink easily. How much will i need for a CPU only loop?

I will also get a silver coil to prevent bacteria growth, do they last long?
If they don't, how often will i need to replace it?


----------



## microman

Rx240 kit is what I would get... I had the rs240 & it wasnt enough.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Annex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigD;14613399*
> Sorry if my question has already been answered - the size of this thread is a bit daunting!
> 
> I'm looking to know if an rx360 kit will be sufficient for an overclocked i5/i7 sandy bridge CPU and 2x 6950 flashed to 6970 and overclocked, all in a single loop? I'm contemplating building this all into my desk or something crazy like that so space and airflow etc should be very good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated - just looking for a heads up really as to if this kit will be enough for my needs.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> BigD


I honestly don't think the kit will be enough for your needs.. A single 6950 and an overclocked sandy bridge cpu will probably run great on the kit, but considering you're wanting to add two overclocked power hungry GPU's, it just won't be enough. I'd personally want two rx360 rads if I was planning on cooling that much.

I would skip the kit and go for a full custom approach.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;14613880*
> Those temps are horrible... I never go above 40c oced as high as I can go.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Wow, your temps are cool! But for me, going from 75c on load to 56c (Overclocked) on load, is good for me.







Plus im sure the RX rads you have are helping keep you're temps super cool. Maybe once I get an RX360, my temps wont go over 50c? But as far as my temps being "horrible," i think not.


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14614150*
> Wow, your temps are cool! But for me, going from 75c on load to 56c (Overclocked) on load, is good for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus im sure the RX rads you have are helping keep you're temps super cool. Maybe once I get an RX360, my temps wont go over 50c? But as far as my temps being "horrible," i think not.


Rx rad its just a single 240 for the gpu's the 360 is for the cpu.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigD;14613399*
> Sorry if my question has already been answered - the size of this thread is a bit daunting!
> 
> I'm looking to know if an rx360 kit will be sufficient for an overclocked i5/i7 sandy bridge CPU and 2x 6950 flashed to 6970 and overclocked, all in a single loop? I'm contemplating building this all into my desk or something crazy like that so space and airflow etc should be very good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated - just looking for a heads up really as to if this kit will be enough for my needs.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> BigD


Yes, a RX360 kit will cool them.


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis;14611816*
> 1.2v on stock cooling? People are afraid to go that high even on water, I think you need to get your overclock sorted out before you think about anything.
> 
> But yes, if temperature is not the limiting factor then watercooling will certainty not help.


Oh no, I run 1.1v 24/7 at 920core. I just did a quick run acouple days ago with 1.2v and 1Ghz core to test it out in a 3DMark11 run and it crashed at 50ish-C before the first test was to even complete, I was just giving an example to see if watercooling was worth doing for me.


----------



## BigD

Thanks for the feedback guys.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14614770*
> Yes, a RX360 kit will cool them.


I see you're running 2x RX360 rads - do you feel the benefit of the 2nd or do you find it a bit overkill?

Cheers,
D


----------



## Worple

Anyone ever use these?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13163/ex-tub-891/Phobya_G14_Inline_Temp_Sensor_Coupler_-_2-Pin_71170.html?tl=g30c101s457
I was thinking of putting one on the outlet of the cpu and one on my other loop on the outlet of the gpu


----------



## Nickw

trying to fit a rs360 rad in my lian li k62 , realized now i wont do that internally looking for cutting options/ external mounting options please.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigD;14614868*
> Thanks for the feedback guys.
> 
> I see you're running 2x RX360 rads - do you feel the benefit of the 2nd or do you find it a bit overkill?
> 
> Cheers,
> D


I'm running two RX360s on CPU and two 6990s (4 gpus) and will add mobo chipset block shortly.

My HAF932 ran a CPU and 6990+6970 without issues on Crysis for hours. That current system is now running CPU and two 6870s.


----------



## BigD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14617654*
> I'm running two RX360s on CPU and two 6990s (4 gpus) and will add mobo chipset block shortly.
> 
> My HAF932 ran a CPU and 6990+6970 without issues on Crysis for hours. That current system is now running CPU and two 6870s.


Sorry I misread your sig. Excellent news, thanks again mate for your help.


----------



## Frontsidebus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;14616981*
> Anyone ever use these?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13163/ex-tub-891/Phobya_G14_Inline_Temp_Sensor_Coupler_-_2-Pin_71170.html?tl=g30c101s457
> I was thinking of putting one on the outlet of the cpu and one on my other loop on the outlet of the gup


I might have to get a couple of those!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigD;14618951*
> Sorry I misread your sig. Excellent news, thanks again mate for your help.


I forgot to add, my HAF932 system only runs a single RX360 rad. When I ran a 6990 and 6970, GPU temps were 58-65c under gaming, if I remember correctly.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14619367*
> I forgot to add, my HAF932 system only runs a single RX360 rad. When I ran a 6990 and 6970, GPU temps were 58-65c under gaming, if I remember correctly.


so jealous of your set up


----------



## ALUCARDVPR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Annex;14613393*
> What are your ambient temps like?
> 
> Wish my chip was that amazing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14613684*
> I'm curious too. I'm hitting 44c-45c with only a 4.0 overclock @ 1.44v. My ambient temp is 25c-26c.


Ambient temps are 26C during the day and around 20-21C during the night.

I'm at 1.476v loaded for 4.5GHZ.

Load temps is where water cooling really shines.

I think some of you might be reading the wrong temps. "CPU Temp" off the motherboard socket sensor is incorrect during overclocking - and is usually a 10 degree variance to actual temp which is "Core Temp". See AMD below for reference:
Quote:


> Concerning your question regarding the temperatures with your processor. (1090) the maximum temperature threshold is 62 Celsius which set for the internal die (core) temperature of the chip. The core temperatures have an equational offset to determine temperature which equalizes at about 45 Celsius thus giving you more accurate readings at peak temperatures. The hindrance in this is the sub ambient idle temperature readings you speak of.
> 
> The silicon and adhesives used in manufacturing these processors has a peak temperature rating of 97+ Celsius before any form of degradation will take place. The processor also has a thermal shut off safe guard in place that shuts the processor down at 90 Celsius.
> 
> The Cpu temperature is read form a sensor embedded within the socket of your motherboard causing about a 7-10 Celsius variance form the actual Cpu temperature, which may be what you are reading about on the net.
> 
> You can use an application called AMD overdrive, that will allow you to monitor your temperatures accurately.
> 
> As long as your core temperature has not exceeded the high side of the 60 degree mark for extended periods of time you should be ok. 62 degrees holds a generous safety net to begin with.
> 
> I hope I was able to answer your questions, If you have any more inquiries don't hesitate to contact us.
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Alex Cromwell
> Senior Technology Director
> Advanced Micro Devices
> Fort Collins, Colorado
> 2950 East Harmony Road
> Suite 300
> Fort Collins, CO
> 80528-9558


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14619367*
> I forgot to add, my HAF932 system only runs a single RX360 rad. When I ran a 6990 and 6970, GPU temps were 58-65c under gaming, if I remember correctly.


Not trying to point you out, but I'm just looking for information, because I want to run a watercooling system in the future. When you say load, do you mean gaming or benchmark/stable testing (ie: OCCT/ATI Tool/Furmark)


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LivingChampion;14619976*
> Not trying to point you out, but I'm just looking for information, because I want to run a watercooling system in the future. When you say load, do you mean gaming or benchmark/stable testing (ie: OCCT/ATI Tool/Furmark)


Under Furmark, my OC 6870s ran at low 60s for 2 hours on a single RX360. I haven't run the 6990 or 6970 with extended Furmark. I've only run mining for days with the 6990s overclocked and higher voltage and they reached high to mid 60s with two RX360s at 90F ambient temps. That's also with a single 10watt DDC pump, not X20 750 pump.

The only load that counts IMO above gaming is mining. Furmark and other software are just for testing OC settings, which IMO, is false loading. I have seen OC settings run fine under benchmark software, yet crash when loaded with Crytek games or artifact/flicker, and you have to downclock the settings to make it function properly. Load mining software on a ATI card and watch your GPU and VRM temps skyrocket. That's how we found out the Koolance 6990 block had VRM contact issues with the thermal pads.


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Under Furmark, my OC 6870s ran at low 60s for 2 hours on a single RX360. I haven't run the 6990 or 6970 with extended Furmark. I've only run mining for days with the 6990s and they reached high to mid 60s with two RX360s at 90F ambient temps. That's also with a single 10watt DDC pump, not X20 750 pump.

The only load that counts IMO above gaming is mining. Furmark and other software are just for testing OC settings, which IMO, is false loading. I have seen OC settings run fine under benchmark software, yet crash when loaded with Crytek games or artifact/flicker, and you have to downclock the settings to make it function properly. Load mining software on a ATI card and watch your GPU and VRM temps skyrocket. That's how we found out the Koolance 6990 block had VRM contact issues with the thermal pads.


Yeah, I've noticed with the 580 that OCCT does not work at all. Only GPUTool works for me in finding stable overclocks, but thanks for your information though 60 load is pretty good for Furmark. Can you expect the same temps for having two 580s on one RX240?


----------



## microman

i cant believe the temps i am hearing for gpus.... if my gpu hit low 60's i would feel like i did something VERY wrong....no way a 6870 should run that hot on water. when i had 2 6950's they would never break 40c on a rx240.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


Yeah, I've noticed with the 580 that OCCT does not work at all. Only GPUTool works for me in finding stable overclocks, but thanks for your information though 60 load is pretty good for Furmark. Can you expect the same temps for having two 580s on one RX240?


Well, I'll know soon. I have one GTX580 now and another coming in a few days. I'm planning on getting waterblocks for them also and swapping out my 6870s for the GTX580s in my HAF932 with single RX360. Eventually, I may try three 580s also.


----------



## Jobotoo

I almost never even hit 40, mostly in the mid to high 30s during gaming.


----------



## microman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;14620486*
> I almost never even hit 40, mostly in the mid to high 30s during gaming.


even on furmark i never hit 40c


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


i cant believe the temps i am hearing for gpus.... if my gpu hit low 60's i would feel like i did something VERY wrong....no way a 6870 should run that hot on water. when i had 2 6950's they would never break 40c on a rx240.


I have yet to see a ATI card run below 40c under load. Plus 60c is not hot anyway.


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *microman*   i cant believe the temps i am hearing for gpus.... if my gpu hit low 60's i would feel like i did something VERY wrong....no way a 6870 should run that hot on water. when i had 2 6950's they would never break 40c on a rx240.  
Thats nice to hear









Hows RX240 vs RX360 in terms of cooling, say two GPUs only. My case doesn't support RX360 unfortunately enough. The price is so close too...

Edit: Hmm not really sure if an RX240 would fit my case either. Maybe I'd have to get a RS240 such as this guy. Hows a RS240 compared to air cooling?

  
 You Tube


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I have yet to see a ATI card run below 40c under load. Plus 60c is not hot anyway.


I agree, and 560's aren't hot cards to begin with (which is what I think he's running.)


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14620974*
> I agree, and 560's aren't hot cards to begin with (which is what I think he's running.)


agree completely, even if i have been gpu folding all day the temp on my 560ti has never gone above 55, and that is just with the cooler that came with it, no over clock but no water either


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


I agree, and 560's aren't hot cards to begin with (which is what I think he's running.)



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


I have yet to see a ATI card run below 40c under load. Plus 60c is not hot anyway.


i had 6950's before this and they NEVER went over 40c. if i still had them i would post screenie.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


i had 6950's before this and they NEVER went over 40c. if i still had them i would post screenie.


Well I sure hope this is true my 6950 is going under water this weekend. I'll post temps.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


Thats nice to hear









Hows RX240 vs RX360 in terms of cooling, say two GPUs only. My case doesn't support RX360 unfortunately enough. The price is so close too...

Edit: Hmm not really sure if an RX240 would fit my case either. Maybe I'd have to get a RS240 such as this guy. Hows a RS240 compared to air cooling?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWdQp...feature=relmfu


Don't bother with water cooling. If you expect to cool an overclocked cpu and two heavily overclocked 580's with an RS240 you're crazy. You need to either mount externally or buy a better case first.


----------



## LivingChampion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Don't bother with water cooling. If you expect to cool an overclocked cpu and two heavily overclocked 580's with an RS240 you're crazy. You need to either mount externally or buy a better case first.


Yeah, I was thinking of getting an RS240 for my GPU(s) and a 120mm mounted to the exhaust for my CPU. So a RX240 wouldn't work right? How bad are RS240s for a single GPU and how are they for two GPUs overclocked?


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Well I sure hope this is true my 6950 is going under water this weekend. I'll post temps.


what block are you using?? what rad, whats in the loop?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


what block are you using?? what rad, whats in the loop?


I'm just using a universal block MCW82. I will have a mcr320qp and a rs240 kit, with my 2500k in the loop of course too.

Are you using the rasa kit pump/res with 2 gpus and a cpu in your loop?


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


I'm just using a universal block MCW82. I will have a mcr320qp and a rs240 kit, with my 2500k in the loop of course too.

Are you using the rasa kit pump/res with 2 gpus and a cpu in your loop?


i am old school i would never have my cpu in my loop with my gpu.. my gpu are on the rx240 and the cpu is on the rx360. I am using two of the xspc res/pumps though.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *microman*


i am old school i would never have my cpu in my loop with my gpu.. my gpu are on the rx240 and the cpu is on the rx360. I am using two of the xspc res/pumps though.


So what you have 2 different reservoirs and pumps? Totally separate loops? Pics?


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


So what you have 2 different reservoirs and pumps? Totally separate loops? Pics?


yes i have 2 seperate loops..

















Those are my old 460's but it pretty much looks the same now. Wait thats not even the same mobo i have now....


----------



## lightsout

Ah I see looks pretty cool actually. Do you think it makes a big difference in temps?


----------



## microman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Ah I see looks pretty cool actually. Do you think it makes a big difference in temps?


seems to work pretty well.. just a preference i have to not have anything in the loop with my cpu. I would have something in the loop with say gpu's though.

Edit i just noticed i have 700 reps! sweet. 50 more for my next flame!


----------



## LivingChampion

Would something like this be similar to the size of the RS240 or is this like a RX240's radiator size or bigger?

http://jab-tech.com/Swiftech-H20-220...-pr-4740.html#


----------



## urbanshaft

took me 2hours to put it together
still very far till im all black/blue ><


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*


Would something like this be similar to the size of the RS240 or is this like a RX240's radiator size or bigger?

http://jab-tech.com/Swiftech-H20-220...-pr-4740.html#


It's the size of a RS240. But stay away from that kit, Way overpriced!


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;14622889*
> It's the size of a RS240. But stay away from that kit, Way overpriced!


It's overpriced but even more simple then the RS240 to install. If your truely afraid of water this thing is the 'safest' water kit I've seen. Temps are around the same as the RS240, if it was slightly lower priced I would have gotten it over the RS240, it also saves space.

Anyway, who wants to buy me this?
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2010/07/20/hailea-hc-500a-water-chiller-review/4


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microman;14622344*
> i am old school i would never have my cpu in my loop with my gpu.. my gpu are on the rx240 and the cpu is on the rx360. I am using two of the xspc res/pumps though.


That's explains your low temps on your GPU's. I didn't know you had two separate loops, I might try that out.


----------



## breent

Got my replacement res/pump today








runs dead silent, and i added my GPU to the loop


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breent;14626786*
> Got my replacement res/pump today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> runs dead silent, and i added my GPU to the loop


Nice, glad you got this sorted out. Sounds like it got there pretty quickly too. How did adding the GPU affect your CPU temps?


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14626691*
> That's explains your low temps on your GPU's. I didn't know you had two separate loops, I might try that out.


Plus GPU only block, not full waterblock.

Tests of waterblocks. Not one is below 40C

http://skinneelabs.com/universalgpu-nv480/8/
http://skinneelabs.com/gtx480-full-cover-block-roundup/5/
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=212874


----------



## Cwolfer

Question:

What size clamps do I need to buy for the Rasa 750 RX 360 watercooling kit

http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-CPU-watercooling-kit-pr-4780.html

Using PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" wall?

I bought clamps, but they turned out to be the wrong size, so apparently, I don't know what I'm doing.

Also --

I've seen people using these angled barbs. Can someone link me to those proper for my setup?

Thanks!


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14628589*
> Question:
> 
> What size clamps do I need to buy for the Rasa 750 RX 360 watercooling kit
> 
> http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-CPU-watercooling-kit-pr-4780.html
> 
> Using PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" wall?
> 
> I bought clamps, but they turned out to be the wrong size, so apparently, I don't know what I'm doing.
> 
> Also --
> 
> I've seen people using these angled barbs. Can someone link me to those proper for my setup?
> 
> Thanks!


What exact clamps did you buy and what was wrong with them?

These clamps in medium should work:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Plastic-Tubing-Clamps-Black-pr-3522.html

Angle fittings are here:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Misc-Fittings-c-334.html


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14628672*
> What exact clamps did you buy and what was wrong with them?
> 
> These clamps in medium should work:
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Plastic-Tubing-Clamps-Black-pr-3522.html
> 
> Angle fittings are here:
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Misc-Fittings-c-334.html


Stainless Steel Shielded Hose Clamp for 5/8" OD to 3/4" OD Tubing

They just don't get small enough. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.

Thank you!


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezveedub;14628672*
> What exact clamps did you buy and what was wrong with them?
> 
> These clamps in medium should work:
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Plastic-Tubing-Clamps-Black-pr-3522.html
> 
> Angle fittings are here:
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Misc-Fittings-c-334.html


http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-silver-shining-angle-fitting-1-2-Barb-BP-WTP-C26-pr-4339.html

Would those work fine?


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14628749*
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-silver-shining-angle-fitting-1-2-Barb-BP-WTP-C26-pr-4339.html
> 
> Would those work fine?


What's wrong with the clamps that come with the kit? You should go for compression fittings, they will make maintenance a bit easier. I got some bitspower compression fittings for mine, their a bit pricey but I figure you only need to buy them once.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwolfer;14628749*
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-silver-shining-angle-fitting-1-2-Barb-BP-WTP-C26-pr-4339.html
> 
> Would those work fine?


Those work, but try to only use them as needed. The more of those you install, the more restrictive your system gets, which drops flow.


----------



## Cwolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14628902*
> What's wrong with the clamps that come with the kit? You should go for compression fittings, they will make maintenance a bit easier. I got some bitspower compression fittings for mine, their a bit pricey but I figure you only need to buy them once.


Mind linking me to compression fittings that would be compatible with the tubing I linked above?

Numbers confuse me.


----------



## Vandal4126

http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-G1-4-Matte-Black-Compression-Fitting-7-16-ID-5-8-OD-Tube-BP-MBCPF-CC6-pr-4580.html

I have 4 of these, I also bought the tubing you have. But I also got 2x 45degree rotary compression fittings for my CPU, can't seem to find it there. You don't need matt black or bitspower but I just liked the black and heard bitspower is pretty good.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Hi, i have been looking this thread since the start and hoping that one day i will join it and i think that day is very near but i have some questions: how often the loop has to be drained, cleaned, etc?, i will be using distilled water & silver kill coil (1 or 2?), does the radiator or cpu block need to be cleaned prior installing it?


----------



## Ivan TSI

And i have very high ambient temps (30C-33C) should i go wih the RX240 or the RS will be enought?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


And i have very high ambient temps (30C-33C) should i go wih the RX240 or the RS will be enought?


I will always say if you have the room for a RX Rad go for it


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;14630205*
> Hi, i have been looking this thread since the start and hoping that one day i will join it and i think that day is very near but i have some questions: how often the loop has to be drained, cleaned, etc?, i will be using distilled water & silver kill coil (1 or 2?), does the radiator or cpu block need to be cleaned prior installing it?


I've heard every 6 months to a year for maintenance, I just got mine last month. distilled h20 + silver kill coil is good, a lot of OCNers use that, including myself. Yes, the radiator should be flushed out before installation, CPU block not as important, but you might as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;14631009*
> And i have very high ambient temps (30C-33C) should i go wih the RX240 or the RS will be enought?


Get whichever one you can fit in your case, and budget. I went with the RS, and it's been fine for my CPU only, but i have 26C ambient.


----------



## Ivan TSI

It will go externally mounted, case is a Lancool K62b, i will mount it in the back with the swiftech adapter like the photos danny boy posted in this thread.

Edit: Like this http://www.overclock.net/12973750-post6002.html


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


It will go externally mounted, case is a Lancool K62b, i will mount it in the back with the swiftech adapter like the photos danny boy posted in this thread.

Edit: Like this http://www.overclock.net/12973750-post6002.html


if you want to spend the money go for and RX as it will allow better upgraind in future, but a rs is fine for a cpu only if you are worrie about that<
rx beats rs its more a money thing









chose what you an afford and be happy with


----------



## breent

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anubis1127*


Nice, glad you got this sorted out. Sounds like it got there pretty quickly too. How did adding the GPU affect your CPU temps?


The shipping took about 4 days which is quite good to me








I do notice the CPU temps rise when stressing the gpu.
But both a majorly overclocked (4,2ghz i5 760) and the rasa kit handles these temps amazingly.
Very very impressed


----------



## jetboy623

I have just recieved my RS360 kit today. Even though I havn't installed it yet, I already find it of incredible quaility. I didn't realize the rad was made of 100% metal!!!! I can't wait to install this gold! I'll update you guys on how the installation goes, and I'll upload some pics so I can join the club!


----------



## Worple

Something I found Read Here


----------



## Nynn




----------



## breent

^ nice build man


----------



## breent

Finally got around to taking pics of the newly added GPU block to my RS360.
















I can get temps if someone needs them.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;14639025*
> Something I found Read Here


lol
i am with u on that, lapping always seemed a bit extreme:gunner:


----------



## DKTR62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breent;14639180*
> Finally got around to taking pics of the newly added GPU block to my RS360.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can get temps if someone needs them.


Temps if u can







:


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm;14639653*
> lol
> i am with u on that, lapping always seemed a bit extreme:gunner:


Its in the extreme side but proven efective, its like overclocking, you have to risk it, if done correctly its a win situation otherwise it is not.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;14639025*
> Something I found Read Here


That article is ridiculous, it provides nothing to back up it's claims that lapping is useless. It also makes it seem like an overly dangerous task, which it's not, if you follow a proper guide and do what your supposed to it's unlikely that you'll cause damage. (lol 300 grit sandpaper)

Why bother posting that here? Lapping is hardly discussed in this thread.


----------



## jetboy623

Okay, I was setting up my kit, and the first thing I installed was the res/pump. I plugged in the molex connector to give it power, and just like a complete dumbass, I turned it on. FYI, I did not hook up any other part, nor did I fill it with water. It has been running dry for just about 5 hours now (Until I realized). Do you think I should do anything about it?

Do you think there is going to be noticeable damage?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14647423*
> Okay, I was setting up my kit, and the first thing I installed was the res/pump. I plugged in the molex connector to give it power, and just like a complete dumbass, I turned it on. FYI, I did not hook up any other part, nor did I fill it with water. It has been running dry for just about 5 hours now (Until I realized). Do you think I should do anything about it?
> 
> Do you think there is going to be noticeable damage?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I'm amazed it worked for that long. I'd say chances of damage are high, but the fact that it's not dead yet might be a good sign. I'm thinking it wasn't running the whole time, you should have been able to hear it running without water.


----------



## pwnography6

Finally got my RS750 kit installed....


----------



## Nynn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14647985*
> Finally got my RS750 kit installed....


Get that GPU wet


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14647639*
> I'm amazed it worked for that long. I'd say chances of damage are high, but the fact that it's not dead yet might be a good sign. I'm thinking it wasn't running the whole time, you should have been able to hear it running without water.


I definitely heard it! It made a sort of grinding noise. But not as loud as you might think.

Do you think the damage will effect the performance of the pump??

Do you think the noise will "go away eventually" (I know it's a stupid question, don't laugh







)

Should I call up frozenCPU/XSPC and ask them for a new one?

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14648121*
> I definitely heard it! It made a sort of grinding noise. But not as loud as you might think.
> 
> Do you think the damage will effect the performance of the pump??
> 
> Do you think the noise will "go away eventually" (I know it's a stupid question, don't laugh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Should I call up frozenCPU/XSPC and ask them for a new one?
> 
> THANK YOU VERY MUCH!


I don't think it would affect the performance, I think it would just die. Normally running a pump without water causes it to overheat (pump gets cooled by the water flowing though it) which causes it to die. I'm still amazed that it could have run for five hours.

If you have the money go buy a new one, or contact XSPC and tell them what you did, they might be willing to send you another one.


----------



## jetboy623

Hi

I need help installing the cpu block with my AMD Phenom. Obviously, it doesn't come with an AMD backplate. I have looked at the FAQ and the get-around for AMD users. But what do I do after I thread the backplate, and put the bolts/screws through?

In other words, the square-shaped block does not fit through the rectangular-aligned bolts.
Never mind, I figured it out.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14648293*
> I don't think it would affect the performance, I think it would just die. Normally running a pump without water causes it to overheat (pump gets cooled by the water flowing though it) which causes it to die. I'm still amazed that it could have run for five hours.
> 
> If you have the money go buy a new one, or contact XSPC and tell them what you did, they might be willing to send you another one.


Okay, thanks.


----------



## george_orm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14648589*
> Okay, thanks.


if i where you i would see if it runs with water in it, if it makes the sound claim it always made that sound and get a free one sent to you. i may not do it but if your feeling a bit out of pocket that is the way to go, jsut talk to xspc through there email, and go from there, is your call
okay i would feel bad about that but it is one course of action, that i am not recommending:gunner:


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm;14650118*
> if i where you i would see if it runs with water in it, if it makes the sound claim it always made that sound and get a free one sent to you. i may not do it but if your feeling a bit out of pocket that is the way to go, jsut talk to xspc through there email, and go from there, is your call
> okay i would feel bad about that but it is one course of action, that i am not recommending:gunner:


That's exactly what I was gonna do









Thanks for the help


----------



## neodiablo

Hello Everyone -
I'm new to water cooling and recently purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit from FrozenPC. I have decided that I want to add my graphics card to the loop but I'm not sure what additional parts I would need. I'm thinking that I will need the following:

EK Radeon HD 6970 V.2 GPU Block
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12490/ex-blc-870/EK_Radeon_HD_6970_V2_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Electroless_Nickel_Plated_EK-FC6970_V2_EN_Nickel_Non_-_Reference_Design_Cards.html

Two Barbs- Bitspower Matte Black G1/4" Barb Fitting - 1/2" ID
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9556/ex-tub-508/Bitspower_Matte_Black_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_12_ID_BP-MBWP-C01.html

Two 1/2" OD Reusable Clamps
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5390/ex-tub-135/12_OD_Reusable_Clamp_-_Black.html?tl=g30c289s721

PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16"ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - 10ft
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12798/ex-tub-831/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXP10-758.html?tl=g30c99s809#blank

Does the parts list look right for a single loop system (specifically does it look like I have the sizes right)? Is the pump and tube sizes that comes with the kit good enough for this type of loop?

Thanks!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14648569*
> Hi
> 
> I need help installing the cpu block with my AMD Phenom. Obviously, it doesn't come with an AMD backplate. I have looked at the FAQ and the get-around for AMD users. But what do I do after I thread the backplate, and put the bolts/screws through?
> 
> In other words, the square-shaped block does not fit through the rectangular-aligned bolts.
> Never mind, I figured it out.


I managed to use my AMD back-plate and the Intel hardware to mount my CPU block. Worked ok for me.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


That's exactly what I was gonna do









Thanks for the help










You know people are going to do what they do. But its gets annoying on here when you see day after day on this site people doing stupid stuff with their hardware and then rma'ing it when it was their fault.

This affects all of us, by pricing more limited rma service etc. To each is own I just had to say something about that. Yah i know they are the big companies with tons of cash (not xspc) but still.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *neodiablo*


Hello Everyone - 
I'm new to water cooling and recently purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit from FrozenPC. I have decided that I want to add my graphics card to the loop but I'm not sure what additional parts I would need. I'm thinking that I will need the following:

EK Radeon HD 6970 V.2 GPU Block
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...ign_Cards.html

Two Barbs- Bitspower Matte Black G1/4" Barb Fitting - 1/2" ID 
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/95...-MBWP-C01.html

Two 1/2" OD Reusable Clamps
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/53...tl=g30c289s721

PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16"ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - 10ft
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...0c99s809#blank

Does the parts list look right for a single loop system (specifically does it look like I have the sizes right)? Is the pump and tube sizes that comes with the kit good enough for this type of loop?

Thanks!


It almost all looks good to me. Just make sure that your video card is the "Non-Reference" design, since that is what the water-block is for. And you may try to get a copper block, or a nickel from a different company as EK has had some issues with their NICKEL blocks, so I would not suggest going with that.


----------



## neodiablo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*


It almost all looks good to me. Just make sure that your video card is the "Non-Reference" design, since that is what the water-block is for. And you may try to get a copper block, or a nickel from a different company as EK has had some issues with their NICKEL blocks, so I would not suggest going with that.


Thanks for the advice. I'm getting a PowerColor AX6950 2GBD5-2DH Radeon HD 6950 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814131393). From my online research, it seems to use the non reference design. I'll confirm this after the card comes in the mail. The EK block was the only full coverage block that I was able to find for the non reference design. I don't want to get a partial coverage or a universal block.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


I managed to use my AMD back-plate and the Intel hardware to mount my CPU block. Worked ok for me.











Okay, thanks for the pic!


----------



## lightsout

Got mine running a few minutes ago, thanks for all the info in this thread!!

Edit** sorry one more thing how high should I fill the res?


----------



## wetfit9

Fill it all the way up


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;14655581*
> Fill it all the way up


Really? I have it a little over half an inch from the top. Just for when the case leans or something moving it I'm paranoid it will leak from the cap.


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14655981*
> Really? I have it a little over half an inch from the top. Just for when the case leans or something moving it I'm paranoid it will leak from the cap.


It won't leak if you tightened the cap down with a coin or screwdriver or something. Mine is so full that if I lean the computer at all with the cap off, water will spill out.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;14656821*
> It won't leak if you tightened the cap down with a coin or screwdriver or something. Mine is so full that if I lean the computer at all with the cap off, water will spill out.


Really? ok thanks.


----------



## Retrolock

Adding a gpu block (xspc razor 580) to the rasa loop really made my life cool and quiet lol. I used to get hurt ears when my 580 reach 80% fanspeed 80c during benchmarks. Now when I overclock ito 1010/2600 at 1.212v I only hit 61c hehe... During gaming, I'm only at 832/2100 so my max gpu temp during bad company 2 was 42c. All quiet, no fan roar.


----------



## 8564dan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14653707*
> Got mine running a few minutes ago, thanks for all the info in this thread!!
> 
> Edit** sorry one more thing how high should I fill the res?


This looks epic dude. Good work!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8564dan;14657203*
> This looks epic dude. Good work!


Thanks man. It was really fun to do, took my time and double checked everything. Glad I finally took the plunge!


----------



## Retrolock

@lightsout, I love the phantom case. big and the white looks like a Stormtrooper (star wars fan here) wasn't able to buy one because I impulsively bought a 690 2 lol

good job in installing it there! been looking for some pics of rasa inside the phantom


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrolock;14657483*
> @lightsout, I love the phantom case. big and the white looks like a Stormtrooper (star wars fan here) wasn't able to buy one because I impulsively bought a 690 2 lol
> 
> good job in installing it there! been looking for some pics of rasa inside the phantom


Thanks a lot man. I love the white too. Some said black tubing with white case is better but I think it turned out nice.


----------



## breent

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DKTR62*


Temps if u can







:


GPU: 30 minutes of Furmark/ 
Core clock: 1020
Memory: 1160
Voltage: 1250
idle:30 
load: 51

CPU: i5 760 @ 4.2ghz/ 1.36 V
OCCT for 30 minutes
Idle average: 33
Load average: 45
Room temperature is 22

Absolutely amazing performance for an RS360


----------



## Brulf

Well i just finished setting up my water loop, got myself a xspc r240, very impressed with the temps though i'm curious as to why my 2nd core would be so high reseated twice check pressure of block all the jazz, im guessing its just a hot core lol


----------



## infected rat

That is a nice big difference between core temps you have there. I have a similar 9-10C difference between two of my six cores. The difference resolves itself after a few minutes of stress testing though so I'm not too worried.

Like you I reseated a few times and never improved it. It's almost certainly a non-flat IHS on the CPU, so I suppose lapping is the next move if one was really keen to resolve it.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brulf*


Well i just finished setting up my water loop, got myself a xspc r240, very impressed with the temps though i'm curious as to why my 2nd core would be so high reseated twice check pressure of block all the jazz, im guessing its just a hot core lol


Every multi core cpu I have had has seen a fairly big difference between the core temps. But I will say that is pretty big. Actually mine only vary by 5 at the most now with the rasa kit.


----------



## neodiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neodiablo;14652460*
> Thanks for the advice. I'm getting a PowerColor AX6950 2GBD5-2DH Radeon HD 6950 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131393). From my online research, it seems to use the non reference design. I'll confirm this after the card comes in the mail. The EK block was the only full coverage block that I was able to find for the non reference design. I don't want to get a partial coverage or a universal block.


After doing some more research, it seems that the EK Block isn't going to work for me. I'm going to have to get a MCW82 Universal GPU waterblock with a HD6900-HS Heatsink. I'm currently experiencing some difficulty figuring out what parts I need in order to add it to the Rasa 750 loop.

I'm going to get some 7/16 ID 5/8 OD to match the size in the Kit:
PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16"ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12798/ex-tub-831/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXP10-758.html?tl=g30c99s809

I'm also going to get the necessary 5/8 OD clamps:
Primoflex Nylon Reusable Hose Clamp - Black - 5/8" OD
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5058/ex-tub-125/Primoflex_Nylon_Reusable_Hose_Clamp_-_Black_-_58_OD.html?tl=g30c289s722

The block uses
Ports thread specification: G 1/4
Fittings style and compatibility:
Eurostyle fittings with built-in o-ring
Compression fittings supported for tubing size of up to 3/8" (10mm) ID
http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx

I'm thinking that I need to get a G 1/4 Thread 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD Rotary Compression Fitting in order for the tube the work.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11106/ex-tub-704/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_BP-MBRCPF-CC6.html?tl=g30c409s1203

Please let me know if I'm thinking correctly.
Thanks in advance!


----------



## jetboy623

Hey guys, just wanted to let you all know. I have recieved my RS360 kit a couple of days ago, and I am currently running leak tests (succesfully







). So I'll put some pics up soon so I can join this club!!


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neodiablo;14663769*
> After doing some more research, it seems that the EK Block isn't going to work for me. I'm going to have to get a MCW82 Universal GPU waterblock with a HD6900-HS Heatsink. I'm currently experiencing some difficulty figuring out what parts I need in order to add it to the Rasa 750 loop.
> 
> I'm going to get some 7/16 ID 5/8 OD to match the size in the Kit:
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16"ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12798/ex-tub-831/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXP10-758.html?tl=g30c99s809
> 
> I'm also going to get the necessary 5/8 OD clamps:
> Primoflex Nylon Reusable Hose Clamp - Black - 5/8" OD
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5058/ex-tub-125/Primoflex_Nylon_Reusable_Hose_Clamp_-_Black_-_58_OD.html?tl=g30c289s722
> 
> The block uses
> Ports thread specification: G 1/4
> Fittings style and compatibility:
> Eurostyle fittings with built-in o-ring
> Compression fittings supported for tubing size of up to 3/8" (10mm) ID
> http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx
> 
> I'm thinking that I need to get a G 1/4 Thread 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD Rotary Compression Fitting in order for the tube the work.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11106/ex-tub-704/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_BP-MBRCPF-CC6.html?tl=g30c409s1203
> 
> Please let me know if I'm thinking correctly.
> Thanks in advance!


You don't necessarily need compression fittings. You could get some 1/2" barb fittings.


----------



## Erick

Hello, Rasa Club.

Just got my RX360 kit today, and i'm leaking testing right now. No leaks so far!!









So, i have a Cm690 case, any ideas of whats the best way to mount this monster?

I was thinking of something like this : http://forum.pcekspert.com/showthread.php?p=1327642

Any1 care jump in and give me some ideas?

Tomorrow afternoon i'll start modding to do the mounting above ^^^.

Feel free to give me tips.

Thank you.

-Erick


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick;14666962*
> Hello, Rasa Club.
> 
> Just got my RX360 kit today, and i'm leaking testing right now. No leaks so far!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, i have a Cm690 case, any ideas of whats the best way to mount this monster?
> 
> I was thinking of something like this : http://forum.pcekspert.com/showthread.php?p=1327642
> 
> Any1 care jump in and give me some ideas?
> 
> Tomorrow afternoon i'll start modding to do the mounting above ^^^.
> 
> Feel free to give me tips.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> -Erick


So you connected all the tubing without have the rads mounted? What if tubes are too long or too short? Or am I totally confused?


----------



## Erick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14667338*
> So you connected all the tubing without have the rads mounted? What if tubes are too long or too short? Or am I totally confused?


You got it right, i cut the 2 meter tube in 3 equal parts, and connected them.

If they are too long, i'll just cut them more. If they are too short, i'll go to the local hardware store and buy some more.

I'm thinking on putting the rad on top of the case ( outside) and the res/pump in the lower 5,25" bay, so there is less tube showing off, just the tubes that go to the cpu block.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick;14667436*
> You got it right, i cut the 2 meter tube in 3 equal parts, and connected them.
> 
> If they are too long, i'll just cut them more. If they are too short, i'll go to the local hardware store and buy some more.
> 
> I'm thinking on putting the rad on top of the case ( outside) and the res/pump in the lower 5,25" bay, so there is less tube showing off, just the tubes that go to the cpu block.


Well for me the leak checking is all about how all the fittings are connected. So when you cut and add tubing then all that leak checking was for not.
I don't think your main concern is a rad itself leaking or something like that. Its your connections.


----------



## Erick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14667491*
> Well for me the leak checking is all about how all the fittings are connected. So when you cut and add tubing then all that leak checking was for not.
> I don't think your main concern is a rad itself leaking or something like that. Its your connections.


I see. Oh well, than i'm checking to see if the pump/res are working well. xD

Another thing should i tighten the fitting using only my fingers or should i use some type of tool ( don't remember the name but i have it), because one of my fitting was kinda loose when i inserted the tube.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick;14667534*
> I see. Oh well, than i'm checking to see if the pump/res are working well. xD
> 
> Another thing should i tighten the fitting using only my fingers or should i use some type of tool ( don't remember the name but i have it), because one of my fitting was kinda loose when i inserted the tube.


If they are compression fittings then they are meant to be tightened hand tight. I get them very snug though. If you are using the plastic clamps with the rasa kit I used some pliers to get them as tight as I could.


----------



## Erick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14667586*
> If they are compression fittings then they are meant to be tightened hand tight. I get them very snug though. If you are using the plastic clamps with the rasa kit I used some pliers to get them as tight as I could.


Cool thanks, i'll just let the pump running overnight, since its already running.

And tomorrow afternoon i'll mod the case to get the rasa kit dont and at night i'll post some photos guys.

Thank you lightsout rep+


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick;14667611*
> Cool thanks, i'll just let the pump running overnight, since its already running.
> 
> And tomorrow afternoon i'll mod the case to get the rasa kit dont and at night i'll post some photos guys.
> 
> Thank you lightsout rep+


I myself have only been runnng it a couple days, but like you I had a ton of questions.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick;14666962*
> Hello, Rasa Club.
> 
> Just got my RX360 kit today, and i'm leaking testing right now. No leaks so far!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, i have a Cm690 case, any ideas of whats the best way to mount this monster?
> 
> I was thinking of something like this : http://forum.pcekspert.com/showthread.php?p=1327642
> 
> Any1 care jump in and give me some ideas?
> 
> Tomorrow afternoon i'll start modding to do the mounting above ^^^.
> 
> Feel free to give me tips.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> -Erick


I'm following this thread...for a first time modder I was quite impressed.
Case Mod: First Time Mod > CM690II


----------



## Vandal4126

I'm going to be installing my RS240 kit on Tuesday since my motherboard will only arrive late tomorrow.

I have bitspower compression fittings everywhere except on the T-Fitting for the drain, I really don't see how these things can leak from the pipe->fitting connection however the place I'm worrying about leaks is the compression fitting on the block, I really don't know how tight is tight enough. I heard overtightening will damage my block/rad/res, I, like a lot of users am super paranoid about leaks. If I mess up, I love a lot of sexy hardware







Plus I will need to transport my PC 600KM's next month to a major fraglan so I'm really concerned about leaks springing up from being bumped in a car boot etc...


----------



## yoooooon

Hi everyone,

I rarely post (actually I don't think I've ever posted here before) but my pump failed in my RS240 Kit tonight -- during a heated match of League of Legends of all times...

Anyways, my system consists of a Asus P6X58D Premium, i7 970 @ 4.0 ghz, 2x GTX 275, and the standard accoutrement of accessories put into a Corsair 800D.

During the match, my frame rate dropped incredibly, then my system shut off. Thinking it was my graphics cards, I checked the temperatures and they were warm but not extremely hot, so thinking that it was just some sort of freakish crash, I waited a few minutes and rebooted.

Then, a bios error says I have a cpu overheating error. What? No way. Then before I even get a chance to hit the power button again, it shuts off. My CPU was probably spending some good amounts of time heating up like crazy. =/

So I check the loop. Everything is sealed up tight, but I test the pump by itself on a different power supply, and yup, no movement. Nothing. No dice.

I take apart the loop and drain it, and test it again. No sounds, no pump. I've got a dead pump. And I've seriously had this thing installed for maybe 2 months, and I've actually had the system turned on less than 150 hours.

So, just a couple of questions for the rest of you water cooling experts out there:

1. You guys with the Rasa kits, have you ever had a pump fail? After how long? Or are you guys still running strong?

2. Would you recommend that I get a different pump/res combo or should I just try to get the XSPC one replaced?

3. I have another system with an RX360 loop that has far more resistance in the loop than the system that had the pump fail -- it has an RX360, chipset, 1 gpu, and cpu in the loop. The temps are absolutely great, but after having this pump fail, I'm a bit worried.

Thanks for your help everyone,
-yoon


----------



## george_orm

well you can get rasa to send you a new pump, sure that will work, but if your really unhappy with there pump/res, you could just ask for the money it is worth.... do not no of any one who has tried but it is worth a go then get a different pump


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoooooon;14670862*
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I rarely post (actually I don't think I've ever posted here before) but my pump failed in my RS240 Kit tonight -- during a heated match of League of Legends of all times...
> 
> Anyways, my system consists of a Asus P6X58D Premium, i7 970 @ 4.0 ghz, 2x GTX 275, and the standard accoutrement of accessories put into a Corsair 800D.
> 
> During the match, my frame rate dropped incredibly, then my system shut off. Thinking it was my graphics cards, I checked the temperatures and they were warm but not extremely hot, so thinking that it was just some sort of freakish crash, I waited a few minutes and rebooted.
> 
> Then, a bios error says I have a cpu overheating error. What? No way. Then before I even get a chance to hit the power button again, it shuts off. My CPU was probably spending some good amounts of time heating up like crazy. =/
> 
> So I check the loop. Everything is sealed up tight, but I test the pump by itself on a different power supply, and yup, no movement. Nothing. No dice.
> 
> I take apart the loop and drain it, and test it again. No sounds, no pump. I've got a dead pump. And I've seriously had this thing installed for maybe 2 months, and I've actually had the system turned on less than 150 hours.
> 
> So, just a couple of questions for the rest of you water cooling experts out there:
> 
> 1. You guys with the Rasa kits, have you ever had a pump fail? After how long? Or are you guys still running strong?
> 
> 2. Would you recommend that I get a different pump/res combo or should I just try to get the XSPC one replaced?
> 
> 3. I have another system with an RX360 loop that has far more resistance in the loop than the system that had the pump fail -- it has an RX360, chipset, 1 gpu, and cpu in the loop. The temps are absolutely great, but after having this pump fail, I'm a bit worried.
> 
> Thanks for your help everyone,
> -yoon


If you have the money and want to spend it buy a new pump + res, if you don't have the money or don't want to spend it just get the pump/res RMAed.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yoooooon*


Hi everyone,

I rarely post (actually I don't think I've ever posted here before) but my pump failed in my RS240 Kit tonight -- during a heated match of League of Legends of all times...

Anyways, my system consists of a Asus P6X58D Premium, i7 970 @ 4.0 ghz, 2x GTX 275, and the standard accoutrement of accessories put into a Corsair 800D.

During the match, my frame rate dropped incredibly, then my system shut off. Thinking it was my graphics cards, I checked the temperatures and they were warm but not extremely hot, so thinking that it was just some sort of freakish crash, I waited a few minutes and rebooted.

Then, a bios error says I have a cpu overheating error. What? No way. Then before I even get a chance to hit the power button again, it shuts off. My CPU was probably spending some good amounts of time heating up like crazy. =/

So I check the loop. Everything is sealed up tight, but I test the pump by itself on a different power supply, and yup, no movement. Nothing. No dice.

I take apart the loop and drain it, and test it again. No sounds, no pump. I've got a dead pump. And I've seriously had this thing installed for maybe 2 months, and I've actually had the system turned on less than 150 hours.

So, just a couple of questions for the rest of you water cooling experts out there:

1. You guys with the Rasa kits, have you ever had a pump fail? After how long? Or are you guys still running strong?

2. Would you recommend that I get a different pump/res combo or should I just try to get the XSPC one replaced?

3. I have another system with an RX360 loop that has far more resistance in the loop than the system that had the pump fail -- it has an RX360, chipset, 1 gpu, and cpu in the loop. The temps are absolutely great, but after having this pump fail, I'm a bit worried.

Thanks for your help everyone,
-yoon


Yah sadly this is actually pretty common, makes me want to get a different pump/res to avoid it. Almost seems more like a when then if.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14672792*
> Yah sadly this is actually pretty common, makes me want to get a different pump/res to avoid it. Almost seems more like a when then if.


I don't know if I'd call it "common", it does happen, but I'm sure you hear more from the people that have broken pumps than the people that don't.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14674543*
> I don't know if I'd call it "common", it does happen, but I'm sure you hear more from the people that have broken pumps than the people that don't.


Well yah the people with problems are always the loudest ones, but I will say I have seen it posted quite a few times.


----------



## Greenback

Well after a long time reading and I giving ppl the info I have picked up along the way my cpu will finaly be getting it's own watercooling though it will not be a xspc kit it will have a rasa cpu block, so at last I will be talking from experience rather then what I have read









Just thought I'd post it in here as I have posted alot in this thread


----------



## nonstickrudy

Would this kit be enough to cool 2 gtx 580's only. No cpu.

I would be placing the rad on the outside of the case with a radiator mount. This is in a haf x case.

Also is this the correct order of the tubing?

res/pump---->gtx 580---->gtx 580---->rad then rad to res/pump?

reason I dont want to cool the cpu is because i just bought the H100 and it's doing a good job.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonstickrudy;14678896*
> Would this kit be enough to cool 2 gtx 580's only. No cpu.
> 
> I would be placing the rad on the outside of the case with a radiator mount. This is in a haf x case.
> 
> Also is this the correct order of the tubing?
> 
> res/pump---->gtx 580---->gtx 580---->rad then rad to res/pump?
> 
> reason I dont want to cool the cpu is because i just bought the H100 and it's doing a good job.


You didn't say what radiator, and I don't see much point in buying the kit if you don't need the cpu block. You really don't save money that way.


----------



## nonstickrudy

well my cpu is find and was wanting to dedicate cooling strictly to my gpu's using either the 240rad or 360rad. I think from what I have read so far this would be the best way of handling a gpu only cooling system. Any alternatives would be much appreciated.


----------



## Erick

Hello,

I just spent the whole day having fun modding and setting up my new kit.

And the results are even better.

Idle temp before: 38c

Idle now: 26c

Load before: 65c

Load now: 44c

Pics:


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick;14679288*
> Hello,
> 
> I just spent the whole day having fun modding and setting up my new kit.
> 
> And the results are even better.
> 
> Idle temp before: 38c
> 
> Idle now: 26c
> 
> Load before: 65c
> 
> Load now: 44c
> 
> Pics:


Haha that case makes that radiator look so big. I hope you don't mind but that tubing is going to turn brown eventually. The setup looks nice though, good job.
Quote:


> well my cpu is find and was wanting to dedicate cooling strictly to my gpu's using either the 240rad or 360rad. I think from what I have read so far this would be the best way of handling a gpu only cooling system. Any alternatives would be much appreciated.


You should probably just buy a pump, res, and radiator separate. An RS360 would work fine, an RX360 would work better. If you need a suggestion for a full cover water block the aquagraFX blocks are nice.


----------



## Erick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14679638*
> Haha that case makes that radiator look so big. I hope you don't mind but that tubing is going to turn brown eventually. The setup looks nice though, good job.


Thank you.

Right now i'm riding it slow, but tomorrow morning, i'll wake up early and go overclocking.

Wanna join the 1GHz Overclock Clube ^^


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick;14679746*
> Thank you.
> 
> Right now i'm riding it slow, but tomorrow morning, i'll wake up early and go overclocking.
> 
> Wanna join the 1GHz Overclock Clube ^^


I don't really bother with all the clubs, thanks though.


----------



## Stormblitz

Add me to the club.
Here's my RS240kit with an RX120 and GPU block.
What do you guys think?


----------



## Brulf

Sign me up i guess







waiting on my low profile 120mm fan for the rad, power supplies ATX connector hangs out a little to far

(anyone wanna donate a camera for some better pics lol)


----------



## Frontsidebus

@ Erick

That almost looks like an industrial cooling tower stack. I like.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stormblitz*


Add me to the club.
Here's my RS240kit with an RX120 and GPU block.
What do you guys think?


Looks good I like it, whats that fitting coming off of your gpu? Quick disconnect?


----------



## Stormblitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14681440*
> Looks good I like it, whats that fitting coming off of your gpu? Quick disconnect?


I got a triple rotary right off the GPU, then a tee block for draining, 45deg rotary then Koolance VL4N quick disconnect.


----------



## Erick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;14680626*
> @ Erick
> 
> That almost looks like an industrial cooling tower stack. I like.


hehehehe Thanks!


----------



## Vandal4126

Finally installed my RS240. haven't taken final setup pics but these are two pics I took. Temps are amazing. Idle @ 4.4GHZ 1.4v on my 970 is 28 25 16 20 21 22 D. CPU doesn't even hit 63 in linx 20pass


















So many cables :X case is pretty much full.

Having issues getting rid of small air bubbles in the res. I shaken it turned it upside down, switched it off/on all that crap still no luck :X do they just go away over time?


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14686898*
> Finally installed my RS240. haven't taken final setup pics but these are two pics I took. Temps are amazing. Idle @ 4.4GHZ 1.4v on my 970 is 28 25 16 20 21 22 D. CPU doesn't even hit 63 in linx 20pass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So many cables :X case is pretty much full.
> 
> Having issues getting rid of small air bubbles in the res. I shaken it turned it upside down, switched it off/on all that crap still no luck :X do they just go away over time?


Is that a cathode in the center?


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14687252*
> Is that a cathode in the center?


Yeah Lamptron Interverless blue, couldn't fit it anywhere else. Case wouldn't close or side fans would knock it.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14687453*
> Yeah Lamptron Interverless blue, couldn't fit it anywhere else. Case wouldn't close or side fans would knock it.


lol


----------



## Ivan TSI

Im getting a rs 240 kit and i already have a pair of GT AP15 from my H50 and since they are out of stock everywhere y want to know which is a better set up:
push AP15's and pull stock fans. Or
Push stock fans and pull AP15's. Or
Push/pull AP15's and push/pull stock fans.


----------



## Vandal4126

You can get AP-15's @ http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-Case-Fan-1850-RPM--D1225C12B5AP-15-pid-10974.html

They deliver worldwide, I'm in South Africa and it takes about 5-8 days


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;14688152*
> Im getting a rs 240 kit and i already have a pair of GT AP15 from my H50 and since they are out of stock everywhere y want to know which is a better set up:
> push AP15's and pull stock fans. Or
> Push stock fans and pull AP15's. Or
> Push/pull AP15's and push/pull stock fans.


I would just run push untill you can get another set for pull


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14686898*
> Finally installed my RS240. haven't taken final setup pics but these are two pics I took. Temps are amazing. Idle @ 4.4GHZ 1.4v on my 970 is 28 25 16 20 21 22 D. CPU doesn't even hit 63 in linx 20pass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So many cables :X case is pretty much full.
> 
> Having issues getting rid of small air bubbles in the res. I shaken it turned it upside down, switched it off/on all that crap still no luck :X do they just go away over time?


Good lord that thing is full! And I thought my CM690II was cramped...

Edit: Well there are still going to be bubbles unless you really fill the water up to the brim of the res...(w/c is how I did mine and it works)


----------



## andytom69

ciao,
this is my first work..
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scx9to4fcs8[/ame]
mod to
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOGycgkdFqE[/ame]


----------



## Worple

Thats a fine job sir


----------



## razr m3

Does anyone know if the XSPC X2O 450 pump/res is any good?


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *razr m3*


Does anyone know if the XSPC X2O 450 pump/res is any good?


It's the same pump (correct me if I'm wrong) as the 750, just in a different res, so it's ok, but not great.

edit: I guess the 450 is 450l/rhr and the 750 is 750l/hr


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;14703281*
> It's the same pump (correct me if I'm wrong) as the 750, just in a different res, so it's ok, but not great.


It isn't the same pump, it is rated for less flow. The 750 is called that because it is the 750 L/hr and the 450 is 450L/hr.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14688704*
> You can get AP-15's @ http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-Case-Fan-1850-RPM--D1225C12B5AP-15-pid-10974.html
> 
> They deliver worldwide, I'm in South Africa and it takes about 5-8 days


I dont see anywhere how much it will cost to ship it.


----------



## Gainward

Hi guys









I'm about getting the XSPC 750 RS360,
But i'm afraid that the pump is noisy, efter some searching, some people are complaining over the pump because it's "Noisy", 
i want a quiet system with a good water flow, so does this pump meet my needs?


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


Hi guys









I'm about getting the XSPC 750 RS360,
But i'm afraid that the pump is noisy, efter some searching, some people are complaining over the pump because it's "Noisy", 
i want a quiet system with a good water flow, so does this pump meet my needs?


Don't take this personally







.

Where the hell did you hear that??? The Rasa 750 pump is incredibly quiet. I can't even hear it!!!!!! My ceiling fan on low is louder than this pump. my 200mm fan is louder than this pump.

Everyone else second in on this...









So Yes, this will *definitely* meet your needs!


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


Hi guys









I'm about getting the XSPC 750 RS360,
But i'm afraid that the pump is noisy, efter some searching, some people are complaining over the pump because it's "Noisy", 
i want a quiet system with a good water flow, so does this pump meet my needs?


The pump is only noisy if it's faulty (XSPC will replace) or the res isn't full and air is getting in, other then that it's quiet


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


Hi guys









I'm about getting the XSPC 750 RS360,
But i'm afraid that the pump is noisy, efter some searching, some people are complaining over the pump because it's "Noisy", 
i want a quiet system with a good water flow, so does this pump meet my needs?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


Don't take this personally







.

Where the hell did you hear that??? The Rasa 750 pump is incredibly quiet. I can't even hear it!!!!!! My ceiling fan on low is louder than this pump. my 200mm fan is louder than this pump.

Everyone else second in on this...









So Yes, this will *definitely* meet your needs!


Jetboy is right, the pump is very silent. The only way I can hear the pump is if I take a stethoscope and place it up against the reservoir.


----------



## Gainward

Well i thought so when i saw some videos like this:

  
 You Tube  



 
But it looks like an individual case

thx for the help guys


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward;14712229*
> Well i thought so when i saw some videos like this:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EdWVtMAMis&feature=player_embedded
> 
> But it looks like an individual case
> 
> thx for the help guys


That is a perfect example of a "faulty", or simply broken pump. XSPC will 100% fix this issue (if it ever happens to you... which is still unlikely). And just because I can, here's a little how to on how to get a broken pump replaced by XSPC:
*HOW TO: Replace a broken rasa pump spending absolutely nothing







*

1. Capture a video of the broken pump. Zoom in and out everywhere across the pump, and put the camera right up to the pump for a short while so XSPC can hear what's wrong. NOTE: Make sure you say your name inthe video so that XSPC knows it is really your pump that is broken







.

2. Upload the video to youtube. Copy the link of the youtube video. Go to XSPC's support page here: http://www.xs-pc.com/contactus/contact-asia/ (Even though it says Asia, this is also the support page for North America... I Promise







). Insert the link in the description, and explain what's wrong. Then send! NOTE: If you do not want your youtube video to be public, there is an option which will make your video public, but the only way to access it is through a direct link to the actual youtube video page.

3. XSPC will reply within a couple of days saying what they will do. And 9/10 times, they will send you out a new pump immediately, most times with express shipping!!!

4. You just got a new working pump!


----------



## yoooooon

update: so I emailed xspc and I told them my story. They simply asked me to take a picture of the pump and supply my invoice, and they said they'd ship me a new one. Awaiting to receive it.







It was pretty hassle free.

I'm still looking into getting an mcp35x or mcp355 with a res. is the mcp35x compatible with mcp355 and mcp350 tops?


----------



## Browncoat

Anyone have problems fitting the dual-bay reservoir into their cases?

I'm trying to fit mine into a Silverstone FT02 but the acrylic front plate which you screw the metal faceplate to seems to be a few mm too large on one side of the reservoir and won't allow it to sit flush with my case.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Browncoat;14718149*
> Anyone have problems fitting the dual-bay reservoir into their cases?
> 
> I'm trying to fit mine into a Silverstone FT02 but the acrylic front plate which you screw the metal faceplate to seems to be a few mm too large on one side of the reservoir and won't allow it to sit flush with my case.


I had the same problem with my RV02, I bent on of the metal pieces on the 5.25 bay and used a washer to mount my res/pump.


----------



## Browncoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14718654*
> I had the same problem with my RV02, I bent on of the metal pieces on the 5.25 bay and used a washer to mount my res/pump.


You've lost me, any chance of explaining it a bit clearer please? :S

Everything else in my rig so far has went perfectly though (Although I'm positive my neighbour has my PSU )


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Browncoat;14718706*
> You've lost me, any chance of explaining it a bit clearer please? :S
> 
> Everything else in my rig so far has went perfectly though (Although I'm positive my neighbour has my PSU )












Those circled in green prevented me to mount the res/pump flush in my case. So i Bent the one in the front and got washers to help screw it in.


----------



## Browncoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14718817*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those circled in green prevented me to mount the res/pump flush in my case. So i Bent the one in the front and got washers to help screw it in.


Hmm, I'm going to have to give this a look over, mines has the buttons installed where you circled, there is probably a way to remove them... I hope.

EDIT: Removed the 2 buttons and it doesn't seem to make any difference.

I'll get some pics soon, maybe that will help.


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14714282*
> That is a perfect example of a "faulty", or simply broken pump. XSPC will 100% fix this issue (if it ever happens to you... which is still unlikely). And just because I can, here's a little how to on how to get a broken pump replaced by XSPC:
> *HOW TO: Replace a broken rasa pump spending absolutely nothing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 1. Capture a video of the broken pump. Zoom in and out everywhere across the pump, and put the camera right up to the pump for a short while so XSPC can hear what's wrong. NOTE: Make sure you say your name inthe video so that XSPC knows it is really your pump that is broken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 2. Upload the video to youtube. Copy the link of the youtube video. Go to XSPC's support page here: http://www.xs-pc.com/contactus/contact-asia/ (Even though it says Asia, this is also the support page for North America... I Promise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Insert the link in the description, and explain what's wrong. Then send! NOTE: If you do not want your youtube video to be public, there is an option which will make your video public, but the only way to access it is through a direct link to the actual youtube video page.
> 
> 3. XSPC will reply within a couple of days saying what they will do. And 9/10 times, they will send you out a new pump immediately, most times with express shipping!!!
> 
> 4. You just got a new working pump!


I'm so grateful


----------



## Browncoat

Here are 3 images:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!































As soon as it reaches the acrylic facepanel, it's like it can go no further - it seems to me like the face of the reservoir is actually to big to fit in the bays themselves, but since others are having problems that is probably untrue.

I removed the two buttons I am using for the reservoir, the bottom 2, and bent the tabs outwards (The ones shown earlier in the example) as to not obstruct its path but no changes.

If I cannot find the problem I'll probably have to file down the reservoir a little to ensure it will fit.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoooooon;14717275*
> update: so I emailed xspc and I told them my story. They simply asked me to take a picture of the pump and supply my invoice, and they said they'd ship me a new one. Awaiting to receive it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was pretty hassle free.
> 
> I'm still looking into getting an mcp35x or mcp355 with a res. is the mcp35x compatible with mcp355 and mcp350 tops?


Yes, MCP35X works with all MCP350/355 tops but do remember that you lose warranty when you open top of a Swiftech pump (they use warranty stickers) and you won't gain hardly any performance because MCP35X has a high performance top as default.


----------



## Evilcraft

I will be ordering my Rasa RS360 on Tuesday from frozencpu!!! Will post pics when its installed and cooling my 5ghz i5

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## mark4d

this XSPC 750 is the best water cooling kit to start off with and this is why this kit is so great i overclocked my 955 from3.2ghz to 4.338GHz with 1.568 vcore the chip is stable with prime 95 for 5hours temps are at max 53c and with the stock fans that came with the kit OMG this is one hell of a kit the pic speaks 4its self i should post a youtube video


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Browncoat;14719802*
> 
> As soon as it reaches the acrylic facepanel, it's like it can go no further - it seems to me like the face of the reservoir is actually to big to fit in the bays themselves, but since others are having problems that is probably untrue.
> 
> I removed the two buttons I am using for the reservoir, the bottom 2, and bent the tabs outwards (The ones shown earlier in the example) as to not obstruct its path but no changes.
> 
> If I cannot find the problem I'll probably have to file down the reservoir a little to ensure it will fit.


It's possible that yours has a manufacturing flaw. My acrylic faceplate is totally even with the rest of the reservoir. There is no lip at all.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark4d;14725597*
> this XSPC 750 is the best water cooling kit to start off with and this is why this kit is so great i overclocked my 955 from3.2ghz to 4.338GHz with 1.568 vcore the chip is stable with prime 95 for 5hours temps are at max 53c and with the stock fans that came with the kit OMG this is one hell of a kit the pic speaks 4its self i should post a youtube video


Wow!







I can't wait to O/C my 955! I hope I can go to at least 4.1 with my RS360 in push/pull!!!!!!


----------



## mark4d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14727547*
> Wow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait to O/C my 955! I hope I can go to at least 4.1 with my RS360 in push/pull!!!!!!


dont buy the rs kit the rad is to small i got the RX360 KIT + rx120 to go with it ....... take a look rs vs rx the rx120 is like the rs 240

BUY BUY BUY http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30280

DONT BUY DONT BUY DONT BUY http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30187


----------



## Evilcraft

Links are the 240s what about the rs360 idk where to find said rx360 plus frozen CPU is cheaper I think than performancepc

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark4d;14730140*
> dont buy the rs kit the rad is to small i got the RX360 KIT + rx120 to go with it ....... take a look rs vs rx the rx120 is like the rs 240
> 
> BUY BUY BUY http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30280
> 
> DONT BUY DONT BUY DONT BUY http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30187


Or you can get the rs kit and the 40$ you save you can get another rad







say 120 or 240
But on that note when i get 1 more rep i will be selling almost a full 240 rasa kit


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark4d;14730140*
> dont buy the rs kit the rad is to small i got the RX360 KIT + rx120 to go with it ....... take a look rs vs rx the rx120 is like the rs 240
> 
> BUY BUY BUY http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30280
> 
> DONT BUY DONT BUY DONT BUY http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30187


so out of nowhere, you buy a water cooling kit and you are now an expert on what rads are best? I have seen tons of guys with RS240s and they are just fine for just a CPU loop.


----------



## mark4d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark4d;14725597*
> this XSPC 750 is the best water cooling kit to start off with and this is why this kit is so great i overclocked my 955 from3.2ghz to 4.338GHz with 1.568 vcore the chip is stable with prime 95 for 5hours temps are at max 53c and with the stock fans that came with the kit OMG this is one hell of a kit the pic speaks 4its self i should post a youtube video


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14731553*
> so out of nowhere, you buy a water cooling kit and you are now an expert on what rads are best? I have seen tons of guys with RS240s and they are just fine for just a CPU loop.


WATER COOLING EXPERT........ i think not read the post .............. yep u guest it i am new to water cooling and this is the kit i got now u r going to tell me that it is over kill to have a rx360 and a rx120 on my cpu so what i got it so i can expand if i WANT TO ................ and u can get it from http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php they have both kits and kill-coil a must here r all the kits they got for the xspc http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_202_972


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark4d;14730140*
> dont buy the rs kit the rad is to small i got the RX360 KIT + rx120 to go with it ....... take a look rs vs rx the rx120 is like the rs 240
> 
> BUY BUY BUY http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30280
> 
> DONT BUY DONT BUY DONT BUY http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30187


Dude....... The RS kits are completely fine for OCin. Learn about WC before you start recommending, and or trolling







.


----------



## mark4d

where u get trolling from ........ omg did i say the rs is not a good kit ........ no learn to read yea u got a rs ok good job read the quote damn know it all you no more than me OK but i did not get the rs kit now did i ............... omg the water cooling snobs in here ......... im a dumb ass ur sooooo smart i am so hurt


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mark4d*


where u get trolling from ........ omg did i say the rs is not a good kit ........ no learn to read yea u got a rs ok good job read the quote damn know it all you no more than me OK but i did not get the rs kit now did i ............... omg the water cooling snobs in here ......... im a dumb ass ur sooooo smart i am so hurt










This is a forum, not a text message or twitter. If you want someone to take you seriously don't write like that.

Thrasherht is technically correct. An RS360 is almost overkill for a cpu only loop, jet defiantly doesn't need an RX360 + RX120. If he intended to put a gpu in the loop, that would be fine, but I don't see a post from him with intentions to do so, and I doubt he would try to WC a 4350.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mark4d*


where u get trolling from ........ omg did i say the rs is not a good kit ........ no learn to read yea u got a rs ok good job read the quote damn know it all you no more than me OK but i did not get the rs kit now did i ............... omg the water cooling snobs in here ......... im a dumb ass ur sooooo smart i am so hurt










The grammar







My eye's









Just kidding







You guys are taking this way to serious.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


This is a forum, not a text message or twitter. If you want someone to take you seriously don't write like that.

Thrasherht is technically correct. An RS360 is almost overkill for a cpu only loop, jet defiantly doesn't need an RX360 + RX120. If he intended to put a gpu in the loop, that would be fine, but I don't see a post from him with intentions to do so, and I doubt he would try to WC a 4350.


That's why im running a RX360 + RX120, Because I added my 6990 to the loop


----------



## bennieboi6969

im running cpu and gpu on a rs240 and its all good. theres no need for anything more


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark4d;14733077*
> where u get trolling from ........ omg did i say the rs is not a good kit ........ no learn to read yea u got a rs ok good job read the quote damn know it all you no more than me OK but i did not get the rs kit now did i ............... omg the water cooling snobs in here ......... im a dumb ass ur sooooo smart i am so hurt


Woah, calm down. This is a forum. Not a gossip club or something. Take it easy! I have an RS Kit, and you have 2 RX kits. Woopy doo da day.

Nobody needs to be "hurt" over a mellow water cooling discussion.


----------



## mark4d

look u guys r right but he might get a 220w bulldozer or add 2or 3 video cards into the mix and i only have 1 kit ... if i made u guys upset my fault and i hope its still all good in the hood


----------



## Worple

I am a happy man tonight one of my fishing buddys and myself were talking and I told him how my XSCP rs750 kit was making noise. He looked up and asked if I was in the market for a case? Sure what you got? Well he had a XSPC H1 Hive case Like this one
My buddy who is now my very good buddy gave me the case still in box two RX360 rads and two XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir, All for $100 and the left over beer that we had in my icechest. So I am thinking white tubing duel loop ahh I guess I need to get with frozencpu and newegg and give my sig rig to my son .......I hope the bulldozer comes out soon good reason to get it


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark4d;14735439*
> look u guys r right but he might get a 220w bulldozer or add 2or 3 video cards into the mix and i only have 1 kit ... if i made u guys upset my fault and i hope its still all good in the hood


I'm glad we're cool now







.


----------



## ezveedub

Granted, most don't need a RX360 kit for a CPU only loop, BUT, as most people always seem to add more stuff to a loop later on, it ends up being the wise choice to get. Granted, most will only use the RS rads BECAUSE they have limited room for the RX rad to fit, so that's why some use them.

The other reason some use the RX rads is because they work efficiently with low to medium speed fans, while RS rads need medium to high speed fans to get a good cooling efficiency.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;14737034*
> I am a happy man tonight one of my fishing buddys and myself were talking and I told him how my XSCP rs750 kit was making noise. He looked up and asked if I was in the market for a case? Sure what you got? Well he had a XSPC H1 Hive case Like this one
> My buddy who is now my very good buddy gave me the case still in box two RX360 rads and two XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir, All for $100 and the left over beer that we had in my icechest. So I am thinking white tubing duel loop ahh I guess I need to get with frozencpu and newegg and give my sig rig to my son .......I hope the bulldozer comes out soon good reason to get it


Your buddy selling anymore more goodies for cheap?!? I got a lot of beer I can send him


----------



## Worple

I will be running 2 loops with one having a cpu on a rx360 only but as soon as I can I want to add a NB cooler and ram to that loop


----------



## Worple

He is a good old boy lol, Hell there is lot in his shop I would like to trade some beer for


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;14737451*
> He is a good old boy lol, Hell there is lot in his shop I would like to trade some beer for


what the I dont even.
Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk


----------



## Erick

Hi,

I wanted to know, if i really need some anti-microbial/kill-coil?

When i bought the kit i forgot to buy the kill-coil with it, and where i like it aint really easy to find stuff like that for WC, and shipping to here is really expensive just to buy a kill-coil.

If i REALLY need something to prevent algae what should i use? Stuff that i can find in every country.

Thanks

-Erick

PS: i use distilled water


----------



## urbanshaft

if say i added a rear 120mm rad to my 360kit and say added a 580 to the loop
how much would the 120 lower the temps?by 1-3c or more like 5+c?
cpu to gpu would be order


----------



## solar0987

Posted my kit for sale here








http://www.overclock.net/cooling-products/1103765-watercooling-items-almost-full-rs240-kit.html


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14744406*
> Posted my kit for sale here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/cooling-products/1103765-watercooling-items-almost-full-rs240-kit.html


Your welcome for that last rep


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14745523*
> Your welcome for that last rep


Ty







selling a couple diff things my wc 470 and others


----------



## Trathus

So... I'm considering the RS240 kit but im a total newb with water cooling. What else do I need to buy (apart from some fans I guess) to get the system going, any tools perhaps? ^^


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trathus;14749898*
> So... I'm considering the RS240 kit but im a total newb with water cooling. What else do I need to buy (apart from some fans I guess) to get the system going, any tools perhaps? ^^


You can get going with the kit, some distilled water and a silver coil. That's all you need, the kit comes with two fans anyway although you may want to replace them at some point.

Some people also add something like PT nuke to their loop to help keep nasties from growing but others are happy with distilled+coil only.

You may also want to replace the XSPC tubing. There's really nothing wrong with what comes with it but it may discolor over time. Primochill seems to be the consensus choice for replacement.

Tools wise you won't need any thing more than what you already have for building your PC, a phillips screwdriver. Some decent scissors to cut the tubing perhaps.


----------



## charliehorse55

The kill coil prevents algae and bacterial growth just as well as PT_Nuke does, no need to have both. If you do want to replace the tubing you want to get:

10 feet of Primoflex 7/16" Id 5/8" OD - color of your choice


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliehorse55;14750074*
> The kill coil prevents algae and bacterial growth just as well as PT_Nuke does, no need to have both. If you do want to replace the tubing you want to get:
> 
> 10 feet of Primoflex 7/16" Id 5/8" OD - color of your choice


10 Feet!!!! wow i got 5 and still have about 2 left lol


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14750450*
> 10 Feet!!!! wow i got 5 and still have about 2 left lol


Yes, but it is worth the extra couple dollars for 10 feet... better buy


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14750485*
> Yes, but it is worth the extra couple dollars for 10 feet... better buy


Yep. If you buy 10 feet, you can rebuild your loop a few times without having to get new tubing. I like to always have some tubing laying around so that if you get a new GPU block or something and you forgot to order tubing you don't have to wait painfully for it to arrive.


----------



## Eagle1337

And if you are new, if you mess up a bunch you are covered.

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk


----------



## Evilcraft

Well for starters wouldn't a non conductive liquid be a better choice over water due to the possibly of a leak? And how big a difference is distilled over that non conductive stuff

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337;14750888*
> And if you are new, if you mess up a bunch you are covered.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk


Reason I bought 10 feet hahah.Might get out of hand at some point with out thinking hahahahah.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evilcraft;14757066*
> Well for starters wouldn't a non conductive liquid be a better choice over water due to the possibly of a leak? And how big a difference is distilled over that non conductive stuff
> 
> Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


I don't have a ton of experience with WCin myself, but they each have their pros and cons:

Distilled water:
Pros:
-better performance
-flows easier
-cheap

Cons:
-mostly conducts electricity
-needs killcoil or PTNuke

WCin Fluid:
Pros:
-Emits UV when UV light is on it
-Non-conductive
-Algae and other bacteria and germs are less likely to grow than distilled water

Cons:
-Expensive
-(Supposedly) can cause erroding and corrosion of tubing

Someone with more WCin experience please correct me if anything I said is wrong







.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evilcraft;14757066*
> Well for starters wouldn't a non conductive liquid be a better choice over water due to the possibly of a leak? And how big a difference is distilled over that non conductive stuff
> 
> Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


Distilled water is only slightly conductive, and it's cheap. That's probably the main reason it's used so widely. Your loop is unlikely to leak if you test it properly, use tight fitting tubing, and use clamps to secure the tubing in place.

Distilled is as good as the pre-mixed fluids in relation to temperature (sometimes it's better), since it's pure it doesn't have anything that could fall out of the solution and clog components. (For instance most dyes)


----------



## Trathus

Wow, you guys are giving me alot to think about!







I cant find this "kill coil" anywhere on the website im ordering my stuff from though (remember im finnish so I dont even know what to look for







)... Now someones propably going to tell me I can get it from a local supermarket or something lol


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trathus;14757979*
> Wow, you guys are giving me alot to think about!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant find this "kill coil" anywhere on the website im ordering my stuff from though (remember im finnish so I dont even know what to look for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )... Now someones propably going to tell me I can get it from a local supermarket or something lol


It's this thing,










Just a strip of .999 silver, you can also get some silver (of the same purity) from a jewelry store. The kill coil has a pretty good surface area. If you can't find it / don't want to try, PT Nuke is also used to prevent growth.


----------



## solar0987

Selling a kit 95 shipped minus fans!!!!!
http://www.overclock.net/cooling-products/1103765-watercooling-items-sold-full-rs240-kit.html


----------



## Valodore

Got some new fans and lights today








Also got some new tubing, but it wouldn't fit































































The window on the new side panel is being replaced any day now, with my very own window, so don't pay attention to the AMD logo








So now I just have to wait for my new tubing, before I can redo it + paint the fans white


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valodore;14762116*
> Got some new fans and lights today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some new tubing, but it wouldn't fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The window on the new side panel is being replaced any day now, with my very own window, so don't pay attention to the AMD logo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I just have to wait for my new tubing, before I can redo it + paint the fans white


Don't mean to be such a pig, but two things









-Are you serious with those super, SUPER small fans on the back of your case?









-Second, I would recommend hiding those UV cathodes so the look from the outside won't prevail the intended look







.

Other than that, it looks like an awesome setup!!!


----------



## Valodore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14766929*
> Don't mean to be such a pig, but two things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Are you serious with those super, SUPER small fans on the back of your case?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Second, I would recommend hiding those UV cathodes so the look from the outside won't prevail the intended look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Other than that, it looks like an awesome setup!!!


The small fans on the back, are mainly for looks for the moment, but they will become useful once I get the last 3 GTX 580s.

The small UV cathodes will be hidden soon, I'm just waiting for some parts, which is why I've just placed em there for the time being.

My build is barely 50% complete.
Redoing the tubing, as soon as I get the new one. Also missing my Blu-ray player, which will be hiding both cold cathode lights between it, the fan controller and the res.
And not installing the 4 UV cathodes onto the side panel before I got the window swapped.

Also changing out my MB, RAM and CPU soon, as well adding more cards later, so this is just how it is, atm









Biggest shocker about going from the Gelid blue UV fans, to the Gentle Typhoon fans though, was the temps.

Before my CPU ran at 42 degrees idle and 65 under load, on a 4GHz overclock
And my graphics card at 34 idle and 58 under load @ 1GHz overclock

With the new fans, I clocked it to 4.2GHz and still the CPU is running at 34 idle and 51 under load. And the GPU is running at 28 idle and 46 under load now


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valodore;14769871*
> The small fans on the back, are mainly for looks for the moment, but they will become useful once I get the last 3 GTX 580s.
> 
> The small UV cathodes will be hidden soon, I'm just waiting for some parts, which is why I've just placed em there for the time being.
> 
> My build is barely 50% complete.
> Redoing the tubing, as soon as I get the new one. Also missing my Blu-ray player, which will be hiding both cold cathode lights between it, the fan controller and the res.
> And not installing the 4 UV cathodes onto the side panel before I got the window swapped.
> 
> Also changing out my MB, RAM and CPU soon, as well adding more cards later, so this is just how it is, atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Biggest shocker about going from the Gelid blue UV fans, to the Gentle Typhoon fans though, was the temps.
> 
> Before my CPU ran at 42 degrees idle and 65 under load, on a 4GHz overclock
> And my graphics card at 34 idle and 58 under load @ 1GHz overclock
> 
> With the new fans, I clocked it to 4.2GHz and still the CPU is running at 34 idle and 51 under load. And the GPU is running at 28 idle and 46 under load now


Okay, gotcha! Nice build you have planned!


----------



## DEEBS808

How fast is rma for Xspc?contacted them a few days ago for a pump and res.How long will I need to wait?


----------



## pwnography6

Finally got my Xspc rasa build finished. Checkout the build lofg in my sig for more pics.


----------



## mobeious

where do the little orings that come with the kit go?


----------



## vcrazy

Sorry new to forums.

so I'm about to pull the trigger on the RS240+primochill tubing.

A couple questions, is 6 ft enough for CPU loop only? And do I need anything other than distilled water?


----------



## Shogon

And PT nuke or a silver kill coil for bacteria. Other then that the kit+tubing is all you need. Is this RAD able to hold Ultra Kaze 3k RPM fans, as long as I have the correct screws for it.


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon;14790852*
> And PT nuke or a silver kill coil for bacteria. Other then that the kit+tubing is all you need. Is this RAD able to hold Ultra Kaze 3k RPM fans, as long as I have the correct screws for it.


That's what I thought. Also FrozenCPU is bundling the kill coil with the RS240 kit for free http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_-HOT.html .









I don't know if people knew that already or not


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;14790281*
> Sorry new to forums.
> 
> so I'm about to pull the trigger on the RS240+primochill tubing.
> 
> A couple questions, is 6 ft enough for CPU loop only? And do I need anything other than distilled water?


It depends on how far away the radiator is from your pump, but for me 5 feet was more than enough for just my cpu loop, but if you want more tubing for insurance that you think you may mess up, there's nothing wrong with that.

I actually bought 10ft at the start, didn't like the color, bought 5 ft in white and still had a bit left over.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mobeious;14790176*
> where do the little orings that come with the kit go?


On my kit I used them between the 4 external mounting brackets and the case to help isolate any unwanted vibration from having the radiator mounted externally to the rear fan mount of my case. The mounts will adapt 80mm to 120mm or 120mm to 140mm fan mounts. The NZXT M59 rear fan mount has two options either 120mm or 80mm, I'm using the 120mm mounting holes for the internal 120mm case exhaust and the 80mm screw holes for the XSPC adapter brackets mounted to the outside/rear of case with the o-rings between each mount and case.


----------



## Shogon

Noo jab-tech, why do you no have silver coils.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon;14792253*
> Noo jab-tech, why do you no have silver coils.


http://jab-tech.com/Antimicrobial-Silver-Strip-pr-4530.html

Unfortunately it is out of stock right now.


----------



## vcrazy

same one? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;14792762*
> same one? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html


Yea there both the same thing


----------



## Shogon

Is the RX240 worth the price over the RS240? And 2 Kaze 3k rpm fans should be adequate? Don't have anything else other then some CM R4s.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon;14794484*
> Is the RX240 worth the price over the RS240? And 2 Kaze 3k rpm fans should be adequate? Don't have anything else other then some CM R4s.


3k Kaze's are enough for both RX and RS series...for RX you'll want quiet fans...for the RS you'll want high perf fans...

As for RX240 vs RS240 it depends on your usage...

I don't know if the RX240 can handle a CPU and GPU in the loop tho...but for me...I follow some simple rules from DazMode...1 block = 1x120 rad for the bare minimum...

It all comes down to usage and if you have enough room in your case for an RX240 :/


----------



## mobeious

I got silver coil free with my order from frozen CPU .... Got everything installed last night I ended up doing the amd backplate mod and using the supplied bolts but I did need to file down two of the bolt holes on the amd plate as the bolts would not go through ... I think xspc needs to start supplying written directions.. I had a hard time finding the supplied fan and radiator bolts they were in a folded piece of card board attached the radiator package just looked like a piece of the box found it by looking at a YouTube video of a unboxing


----------



## FullFlash

0H0ey guys I'm in the process of changing my H70 to 360RS,
I had some question to ask before I checkout and pay for the stuff.
I'm planning to have PrimoChill UV Red Tube (3/8 ID, 5/8 OD).
With 2L Freser RED UV Liquid is it enough for CPU loop only?
What size compression fitting should I buy? common sense says 3/8ID,5/8OD.. but wanted to double check ..
Also planning to change the 5mm Blue to UV LED... will the liquid glow red or will be purplish as the LED colour.


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FullFlash;14796574*
> 0H0ey guys I'm in the process of changing my H70 to 360RS,
> I had some question to ask before I checkout and pay for the stuff.
> I'm planning to have PrimoChill UV Red Tube (3/8 ID, 5/8 OD).
> With 2L Freser RED UV Liquid is it enough for CPU loop only?
> What size compression fitting should I buy? common sense says 3/8ID,5/8OD.. but wanted to double check ..
> Also planning to change the 5mm Blue to UV LED... will the liquid glow red or will be purplish as the LED colour.


Yes, buy compression fittings that are the same size as the tube.

Also, most people here would advise not using coolant. It can separate and clog up your blocks.

And the tube will glow red/orange-ish under a UV CCFL, but I don't know about LEDs. Let me hunt down an image of my old setup...


----------



## FullFlash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t-ramp;14796696*
> Yes, buy compression fittings that are the same size as the tube.
> 
> Also, most people here would advise not using coolant. It can separate and clog up your blocks.
> 
> And the tube will glow red/orange-ish under a UV CCFL, but I don't know about LEDs. Let me hunt down an image of my old setup...


Great setup very cool, I imagine you got PrimoChill Red Tube and distilled water?
As it may sound silly but in my country there is no distilled water
We have one type of distilled water and that used for Car battery ( Very acidic and may react I suppose).
My only option is to buy a distilled water for 7$ and ship it for 45$.
That in my mind doesn't make sense so I thought a Freser Coolant for 20$ and shipping for 45$ is more easy on my brain







.
I saw few videos on YouTube and Red UV coolant seems to help the tubing to glow true red.

Moving on into the real issue... my case is Haf x and I'm after Push/Pull config.










As you can see in the picture if I mounted three fans on top.. what size of screws should I buy to ,mount 3 X [120mm,25mm] fans?
the thread for RX/RS Series is 6-32 what about the length? some even put some cushioning above the fins to prevent the screw from going into the rad..
If anyone did this setup on Haf please help me


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;14794557*
> 3k Kaze's are enough for both RX and RS series...for RX you'll want quiet fans...for the RS you'll want high perf fans...
> 
> As for RX240 vs RS240 it depends on your usage...
> 
> I don't know if the RX240 can handle a CPU and GPU in the loop tho...but for me...I follow some simple rules from DazMode...1 block = 1x120 rad for the bare minimum...
> 
> It all comes down to usage and if you have enough room in your case for an RX240 :/


Only plan on cooling my CPU so the RS kit should be just as good. I want to mount it exhausting towards the rear in my Antec 1200, the Classified Northbridge cooler has me worried it might ruin the mounting of the RAD though.


----------



## mobeious

ok Rasa 750 RS360 with AMD 965BE overclocked at 4ghz at 1.344v ... what my idle be around if my ambient is around 24c


----------



## lightsout

No one can really tell you that, plus idle doesn't really mean anything its all about load.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FullFlash;14798032*
> As you can see in the picture if I mounted three fans on top.. what size of screws should I buy to ,mount 3 X [120mm,25mm] fans?
> the thread for RX/RS Series is 6-32 what about the length? some even put some cushioning above the fins to prevent the screw from going into the rad..
> If anyone did this setup on Haf please help me


I have 3 fans on top of my haf x the length I used on my phobya rad was 35mm


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon;14799336*
> Only plan on cooling my CPU so the RS kit should be just as good. I want to mount it exhausting towards the rear in my Antec 1200, the Classified Northbridge cooler has me worried it might ruin the mounting of the RAD though.


Looking at the Antec 1200...I don't think it'll fit the rear exhaust even though it has enough space for 2x120mm fans, the rs240 rad is wider and is not exactly 120mm and it's taller than 240mm...

Only option I see right now without modding is mounting the rad outside the case...maybe some other members with an Antec 1200 can help you out better as I'm only eyeballing the measurements from images on Google.

A rad for your CPU, the RX120 or RS240/RX240(external mount) will to get job.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FullFlash;14798032*
> As it may sound silly but in my country there is no distilled water
> We have one type of distilled water and that used for Car battery ( Very acidic and may react I suppose).
> My only option is to buy a distilled water for 7$ and ship it for 45$.
> That in my mind doesn't make sense so I thought a Freser Coolant for 20$ and shipping for 45$ is more easy on my brain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Fesser coolant is fine. You won't need silver or any other additives. Best to get the clear fluid, and use colored tubes if you want a certain color for effect. Koolance and Primochill (Ice or Pure) make good fluid as well - just don't get any type of color dye bomb additives. While Fesser's colored fluids have good results, you'll need to change it periodically to avoid any discoloration or build up. I currently have Primochill Pure Clear in my loop, with Primochill Pro LRT tubing (black), and it has been working very well, less expensive than Fesser too.

Here's an article testing the various fluids.

Main conclusion:
Quote:


> Just to reiterate, thermal performance differences amongst the coolants is very small, hopefully this puts the age-old question to rest.


and:
Quote:


> Personally, I would avoid the FluidXP Nano-Fluid though as the performance is abysmal.


----------



## CramComplex

How many rads can the X20 750 dual-bay pump/res handle?

Planning on adding an RX/RS240 for my GPU on the loop.


----------



## thrasherht

It isn't the rads you have to worry about. It is the blocks that you worry about.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;14806540*
> Looking at the Antec 1200...I don't think it'll fit the rear exhaust even though it has enough space for 2x120mm fans, the rs240 rad is wider and is not exactly 120mm and it's taller than 240mm...
> 
> Only option I see right now without modding is mounting the rad outside the case...maybe some other members with an Antec 1200 can help you out better as I'm only eyeballing the measurements from images on Google.
> 
> A rad for your CPU, the RX120 or RS240/RX240(external mount) will to get job.


Even mounting the H70 there was near impossible in the rear, I could get that RAD box (or whatever holds the rad outside the case) that I've seen before. Or maybe I'll think of spending the time mounting it inside somewhere.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14808060*
> It isn't the rads you have to worry about. It is the blocks that you worry about.


Really? I'm kinda new to WC'in. If I add two 6870s (xfire) into my loop (RS360), do you think the RS360 can handle my OC'd CPU, and two 6870s, AND still keep both of them cool?

Thanks


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon;14808492*
> Even mounting the H70 there was near impossible in the rear, I could get that RAD box (or whatever holds the rad outside the case) that I've seen before. Or maybe I'll think of spending the time mounting it inside somewhere.


well the Rasa kit comes with some rad mounts to mount your rad outside the case so you don't really need a rad box...

only way you can fit a 360 rad on the antec 1200 is to mod it :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;14808060*
> It isn't the rads you have to worry about. It is the blocks that you worry about.


I'm getting an XSPC Razor 6970 for my GPU block...


----------



## mobeious

Well just got my XSPC kit installed .. went with the RS360 got it in a HAF922..really it fit quite simply with very little mod... right now sitting at 4.2ghz on a AMD 965 idles 29c-30c full load 44c-45c ambient is 26c

have had it up to 4.5ghz full load temp at 55c


----------



## battosaii

count me in i just ordered the rasa 360 kit from frozencpu... but i wont be installing for a while im going to use it on my new pc build i bought the watercooling kit as my first part haha.

whats left that i need to buy is 
- Corsair 800D case
- Asus Crosshair V AM3+ mobo
- Corsair HX850 power supply
- Bulldozer cpu
- second 5870 for crossfire

i got a lot left to go but hey atleast im moving farward and got the cheapest thing first haha


----------



## iamberryboy

Hey all you RS users! Would you recommend an RS360 with Push/pull or an RX360 with just push? Thanks!


----------



## skyline_king88

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


Finally got my Xspc rasa build finished. Checkout the build lofg in my sig for more pics.










hey i got the 955 be c3 and i am looking at the same set up as u the rs 240 with rs120 and i was wondering what the temps are for you.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iamberryboy*


Hey all you RS users! Would you recommend an RS360 with Push/pull or an RX360 with just push? Thanks!


IMO, RS360 w/ push/pull


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iamberryboy*


Hey all you RS users! Would you recommend an RS360 with Push/pull or an RX360 with just push? Thanks!


RX360 just push. Get some good fans if size is an issue.

People way overrate push/pull. It is a slight improvement, but the improvement isn't so vast it would make an RX360 with just push worse. (We're talking a few degrees celcius improvement with P/P)


----------



## Imports>Muscles

Is there any place or anyone that still have the RX120 kit for sale?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imports>Muscles*


Is there any place or anyone that still have the RX120 kit for sale?


rs was only 1 i found
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30279


----------



## Imports>Muscles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


rs was only 1 i found
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30279


I only wanted the RX120 kit because it had a thicker rad. I would get the RS240 but it's pretty hard to fit in a Antec 902, I don't have enough room.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Question regarding these kits.

How strong are the pumps inside the reservoirs? I have 2 RX 360 kits and have thought about selling them to upgrade radiators, pump and other things.

Here are specs:

i7 2600k @ 4.8 - 5 ghz. Sometimes get BSOD at 5.0 so I scaled back OC.

I want to add Syrillian's GTX 280 H2O's to one of the loops with a black ice GTX 480 radiator. Can the stock pump handle this?

Here is a link to the cards in question.







[/IMG]

http://www.overclock.net/video/11033...ian-owned.html

What are your thoughts? Am I going to be okay or will I need to upgrade?


----------



## george_orm

the pump would handle it fine,
but if your have two RX360 kits just run two separate loops, improved performance, less stress on pump.

before you sell the rad or cpu clock those are some of the pest parts around, 
the rad is defiantly one of the best, shown in stat's and all 
while yes the pumps doesn't rock anyone's socks it is absolutely fine to handle, a CPU and 2 GPU blocks.

but if you have two kits.... really go for separate loops, because the cpu and the GPU's will operate at different temps so if you have the stuff put them in different loops,
it will be an awesome set up


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


Question regarding these kits.

How strong are the pumps inside the reservoirs? I have 2 RX 360 kits and have thought about selling them to upgrade radiators, pump and other things.

Here are specs:

i7 2600k @ 4.8 - 5 ghz. Sometimes get BSOD at 5.0 so I scaled back OC.

I want to add Syrillian's GTX 280 H2O's to one of the loops with a black ice GTX 480 radiator. Can the stock pump handle this?

Here is a link to the cards in question.







[/IMG]

http://www.overclock.net/video/11033...ian-owned.html

What are your thoughts? Am I going to be okay or will I need to upgrade?


Just the sandy bridge in the loop? It should be fine for a cpu + gpu loop.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Well, let me rephrase... The 2 kits are in 2 separate pc's.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imports>Muscles*


Is there any place or anyone that still have the RX120 kit for sale?


Pm me if you are still looking for one. I have parts. Res/pump and rad. But no CPU block

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;14812764*
> Question regarding these kits.
> 
> How strong are the pumps inside the reservoirs? I have 2 RX 360 kits and have thought about selling them to upgrade radiators, pump and other things.
> 
> Here are specs:
> 
> i7 2600k @ 4.8 - 5 ghz. Sometimes get BSOD at 5.0 so I scaled back OC.
> 
> I want to add Syrillian's GTX 280 H2O's to one of the loops with a black ice GTX 480 radiator. Can the stock pump handle this?
> 
> Here is a link to the cards in question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/video/1103306-ft-serious-traders-only-syrillian-owned.html
> 
> What are your thoughts? Am I going to be okay or will I need to upgrade?


The RX360 kit pump will handle a CPU and GPU in the loop. Not sure if that GPU block is really restrictive though. At worse, switching to a XSPC dual 5.25 bay DDC or D5 pump reservoir would be the only upgrade needed IF the pump had problems with restrictions in the loop. I run a RASA CPU and 2 EK cooled GPUs on a stock XSPC pump now with no issues in my 2nd PC.


----------



## iamberryboy

I'm officially an RS360 owner! WOOT!







I'll be posting a build log if anyone is interested - first build inside of an NZXT Phantom (going to need some modding)


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamberryboy;14815417*
> I'm officially an RS360 owner! WOOT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be posting a build log if anyone is interested - first build inside of an NZXT Phantom (going to need some modding)


Not my guide but have a look at this, it will help you a lot in your build.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1089921-nzxt-phantom-xspc-rasa-rx-rs240.html


----------



## skyline_king88

hey well i am getting this kit in less then 2 weeks but i have been looking on dazmode.com in canada and they have aded this dazmode only kit here is thie link http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=178_179&products_id=1645. will this be better then the rx240 kit. and will i get better cooling if i add a rx120 rad to it as well.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline_king88;14819432*
> hey well i am getting this kit in less then 2 weeks but i have been looking on dazmode.com in canada and they have aded this dazmode only kit here is thie link http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=178_179&products_id=1645. will this be better then the rx240 kit. and will i get better cooling if i add a rx120 rad to it as well.


the pump would be better the rs360 and rx240 are about the same in performance, adding a 120 would get better performance but a RX240 would be fine for a cpu only loop


----------



## skyline_king88

they dont have rx240 kits with that pump and reading throw this theard i dont want the xspc 750 pump


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*


they dont have rx240 kits with that pump and reading throw this theard i dont want the xspc 750 pump


well you asked will the kit on dazmod be better then the RX240 kit which is the pump will be the rest is basicly the same


----------



## skyline_king88

so i should just get the dezmode kit with the 360 rad and put it on the back of case.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*


so i should just get the dezmode kit with the 360 rad and put it on the back of case.


well you can get the xspc rx360 kit for $10 more
http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?m...oducts_id=1079
which is alot better rad then the Rs360 but comes with the XSpc pump/res

but if you want to go that way then get this it has the D5 pump
http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?m...oducts_id=1646


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*


hey well i am getting this kit in less then 2 weeks but i have been looking on dazmode.com in canada and they have aded this dazmode only kit here is thie link http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?m...oducts_id=1645. will this be better then the rx240 kit. and will i get better cooling if i add a rx120 rad to it as well.


Looks like a good idea. I myself am a little nervous about the pump in my kit as well. Works great but it seems a ton have died. Its probably the next thing I will buy just for piece of mind.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Looks like a good idea. I myself am a little nervous about the pump in my kit as well. Works great but it seems a ton have died. Its probably the next thing I will buy just for piece of mind.


I wouldn't call 10-15 pumps a ton







I haven't had a problem running my RX360 + RX120, CPU, And HD 6990


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


I wouldn't call 10-15 pumps a ton







I haven't had a problem running my RX360 + RX120, CPU, And HD 6990










Well its definitely not uncommon.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Well its definitely not uncommon.


There are ALOT of kits out there, And there's only been 5-10 dead pump's. There have been more loud pump's, But they still worked fine. Even if you get a bad pump they will replace it, Most of the time with in 3-4 days from Hong Kong. So what's the problem


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


There are ALOT of kits out there, And there's only been 5-10 dead pump's. There have been more loud pump's, But they still worked fine. Even if you get a bad pump they will replace it, Most of the time with in 3-4 days from Hong Kong. So what's the problem










5-10 I'd have to say its a little more then that. But do you work for xspc or something? I own the pump as well, you don't need to try and defend it to me. But personally I'd rather not have to deal with the week+ with my rig down. Right now my rigs been down for one and it will be at least one more before its back up.

Quite irritating and something I would like to avoid. But again I own the rasa pump and have been happy with it the short time I had it running. But I do kind of feel like its just a matter of when before it dies or starts making more noise.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


5-10 I'd have to say its a little more then that. But do you work for xspc or something? I own the pump as well, you don't need to try and defend it to me. But personally I'd rather not have to deal with the week+ with my rig down. Right now my rigs been down for one and it will be at least one more before its back up.

Quite irritating and something I would like to avoid. But again I own the rasa pump and have been happy with it the short time I had it running. But I do kind of feel like its just a matter of when before it dies or starts making more noise.


Really? I haven't seen more then 5-10 dead pump's, And no I don't work for XSPC








Ive just been running my kit for 8 months now. 2 months with just RX360 and CPU, 1 month later I add the RX120, Then 1 month later I add my 6990 in the loop. So that's 4 months with my full loop running with no problems, And no sigh of the pump having any problem's. If it does die ill just go up to a XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir, And D5 pump.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


5-10 I'd have to say its a little more then that. But do you work for xspc or something? I own the pump as well, you don't need to try and defend it to me. But personally I'd rather not have to deal with the week+ with my rig down. Right now my rigs been down for one and it will be at least one more before its back up.

Quite irritating and something I would like to avoid. But again I own the rasa pump and have been happy with it the short time I had it running. But I do kind of feel like its just a matter of when before it dies or starts making more noise.


I've had no reason to doubt the pump, I think it just gets a bad rep. Sure it's not powerful, and yes it's cheap. But it's not as bad as people make it out to be. When they do fail people normally get them within two days of rmaing it, which is quite impressive since they ship from HK.

But if you don't trust it and want to pay for another pump and res, that's your perrogative.


----------



## skyline_king88

well i think i will just get rx360 but does any one have this on top of the haf 922. will a universal gpu block fit the gtx 280 and what else would i need to cool it. anyone got gtx 280 full block


----------



## lightsout

I'm hoping my pump lasts as well and its been great. If I had a ton of cash I'd try something else. But I don't so I'm fine with it. It is great piece of mind to know if their is an issue xspc handles it very fast and you don't even need to send the old one first.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14824254*
> I'm hoping my pump lasts as well and its been great. If I had a ton of cash I'd try something else. But I don't so I'm fine with it. It is great piece of mind to know if their is an issue xspc handles it very fast and you don't even need to send the old one first.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


You don't need to send in the old one at all


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline_king88;14822411*
> well i think i will just get rx360 but does any one have this on top of the haf 922. will a universal gpu block fit the gtx 280 and what else would i need to cool it. anyone got gtx 280 full block


I have my RS360 mounted on top, in my 922.









It fits fine, but the last third of the rad doesn't have any openings for air, and thus is placed under the solid metal on top where a 5.25" drive could be placed. I ended up flipping the fan to blow into the case, because if the fan was blowing up, the air would have nowhere to go. But the 240mm that have ventilation on the top work great. I currently have push/pull running on the main 240mm.

I think the extra thickness of the RX360 could also fit great as well.

PS: If you meant literally on top of the 922, you would have to do some modding of the top power button console thingy, including cutting half of it out, and adding a grill there to allow for ventilation. Check out skyn3t's work log on doing this exact thing: http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1074294-project-haf-rd360-mod-still-continue.html


----------



## LoneWolf3574

It's been a while since I posted anything to this group, but I recently updated my watercooling (Rasa 750 RS240 Kit) to some fresh UV Blue Primochill 7/16" tubing, a Phobya drain line







, a handful of Bitspower black powdercoated 1/2" hose barbs, and added a 140mm Phobya radiator to the loop. I REALLY wanted to stick with a XSPC but unfortunately they don't have any RX140 radiators, just the RX120







.

This hasn't really made that big of a difference in my operating temps (maybe 1C at best), but this isn't the reason for the "upgrade". Ultimately I'm planning on adding my video card to the loop and since I can only do a little bit at a time, I figured I'd do a thick 140mm on the rear.

Only one actual mod had to be done to anything, I had to notch the 230mm fan on my access panel about 1/4x1.5" in order to close my case since it was contacting the tank on the rad.

Pics included


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;14826471*
> It's been a while since I posted anything to this group, but I recently updated my watercooling (Rasa 750 RS240 Kit) to some fresh UV Blue Primochill 7/16" tubing, a Phobya drain line
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , a handful of Bitspower black powdercoated 1/2" hose barbs, and added a 140mm Phobya radiator to the loop. I REALLY wanted to stick with a XSPC but unfortunately they don't have any RX140 radiators, just the RX120
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> This hasn't really made that big of a difference in my operating temps (maybe 1C at best), but this isn't the reason for the "upgrade". Ultimately I'm planning on adding my video card to the loop and since I can only do a little bit at a time, I figured I'd do a thick 140mm on the rear.
> 
> Only one actual mod had to be done to anything, I had to notch the 230mm fan on my access panel about 1/4x1.5" in order to close my case since it was contacting the tank on the rad.
> 
> Pics included


Nice! Is that a fan controller above the res?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14824587*
> You don't need to send in the old one at all


Now thats pretty awesome.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;14829464*
> now thats pretty awesome.


----------



## FullFlash

Seems like alot Haf owners install these kits.
Any idea what size of screws come with the kit to mount the fans?
I think to mount the top fans on haf x I need a longer screws if any did the Push/Pull setup.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FullFlash*


Seems like alot Haf owners install these kits.
Any idea what size of screws come with the kit to mount the fans?
I think to mount the top fans on haf x I need a longer screws if any did the Push/Pull setup.


The rad kit screws are 6/32. At first, I mounted 5 gentle typhoons on top and bottom using two screws each per fan in a diagonal position found in the kit, then I switched back to the two top stock 200mm fans, as I found no performance gains. However, I am using the RX360 rad which can get great performance with low rpm fans.

You don't need to buy any more screws, if you're using the top two 200mm fans which are already mounted with the proper screws that the case comes with.


----------



## Ivan TSI

I have a question, i will be using GT AP15's and wanted to know in which rad they will work better rs or rx?


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FullFlash*


Seems like alot Haf owners install these kits.
Any idea what size of screws come with the kit to mount the fans?
I think to mount the top fans on haf x I need a longer screws if any did the Push/Pull setup.


6-32 screws. I am currently using the stock screws that came with the kit to mount my top fans into the radiator. They just barely fit. I had to apply pressure for the threads to start screwing in. So basically, you can use the stock srews for push/pull, but apply pressure to both of the parts you are screwing in (fan+rad) so the threads will catch.


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;14830245*
> I have a question, i will be using GT AP15's and wanted to know in which rad they will work better rs or rx?


The Gentle Typhoon AP-15s will work great on both radiators, but the RX360 is more flexible and can get away with even using lower rpm fans like the AP-13s since it's a lot more thicker. If you're going to be using multiple blocks and have the space for it, then I would go with the RX360.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FullFlash;14829818*
> Seems like alot Haf owners install these kits.
> Any idea what size of screws come with the kit to mount the fans?
> I think to mount the top fans on haf x I need a longer screws if any did the Push/Pull setup.


I used 50mm screws cut down to 35mm for ap15 + phobya rad


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Busyhand*


The Gentle Typhoon AP-15s will work great on both radiators, but the RX360 is more flexible and can get away with even using lower rpm fans like the AP-13s since it's a lot more thicker. If you're going to be using multiple blocks and have the space for it, then I would go with the RX360.


I second this, with one correction. It's not because of how thick it is that it can make use of low rpm fans, it's because it has a lower FPI count.


----------



## skyline_king88

hey well this is how i was planing to put the rx360 let me know if anyone thinks it will not fit...

sorry about the crab drawing


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*


hey well this is how i was planing to put the rx360 let me know if anyone thinks it will not fit...

sorry about the crab drawing


I'm not certain, but I don't believe the 360 fits into the 922 without modification.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*


hey well this is how i was planing to put the rx360 let me know if anyone thinks it will not fit...

sorry about the crab drawing


if your putting it on top of case then get a tape measure and use these as a guide
RX360
Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH)


----------



## skyline_king88

as i put in the picture i want it on the top with the 4 brackets they give you. so i would put the brackets on the 4 oter spot for the 120mm fans and have the end with the barbs hang over the back then throw the holes in the back. i want it external.


----------



## mobeious

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*


hey well this is how i was planing to put the rx360 let me know if anyone thinks it will not fit...

sorry about the crab drawing


Just put a RS360 in my HAF922 requires a little bit of mod but nothing major ... u cannot fit a RX360 in the top ass it would hit the 24pin power plug and the bolts on the CPU block... to fit the RS all you have to do is cut a hole in the case at the top in the front then slot your plastic top piece so it can vent there are a few threads on here that show how to do it .. and the radiator lines up with the factory holes on the upper fan mounts ,,, but u can only do push unless u ditch the upper plastic panel


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*


as i put in the picture i want it on the top with the 4 brackets they give you. so i would put the brackets on the 4 oter spot for the 120mm fans and have the end with the barbs hang over the back then throw the holes in the back. i want it external.


Oh wow, how did I not notice that


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Oh wow, how did I not notice that










I all ways put it down to old age

@skyline_king88 just looking at pics of top of case it should be ok


----------



## skyline_king88

just asking if the brakets will work as that. will it be to much weight on the end.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*


just asking if the brakets will work as that. will it be to much weight on the end.


my rads hanging over my mb and gfx held up by only 4 screws so I think yours will be fine


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyline_king88;14833147*
> just asking if the brakets will work as that. will it be to much weight on the end.


I think it will work, but it will definitely be heavy.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14834587*
> I think it will work, but it will definitely be heavy.


Don't think it'll be so bad, most loops don't use a gallon of water, and the rad itself isn't that heavy.


----------



## pwnography6

Swapping my rs240 rad out for a rx360 in the next fortnight hopefully the waterblock for my mobo gets released soon to.


----------



## Worple

I need 12 fans for four rx360 rads I have $230 budget what fans should I get??


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


I need 12 fans for four rx360 rads I have $230 budget what fans should I get??


12? ***, push/pull only needs 6. You don't even need that. just get 3 Scythe AP-15s and your good to go since its a thick rad.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;14840519*
> I need 12 fans for four rx360 rads I have $230 budget what fans should I get??


Gentle Typhoon AP-15s will work perfectly.


----------



## Dradien

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


12? ***, push/pull only needs 6. You don't even need that. just get 3 Scythe AP-15s and your good to go since its a thick rad.


He said he needed 12 fans for his FOUR RX360 rads....which is 3 per rad.


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradien;14840691*
> He said he needed 12 fans for his FOUR RX360 rads....which is 3 per rad.


Soz read it wrong. Yeh 12 AP-15s should set you back around $230. Btw what you cooling with that? That is some insane rad surface


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezveedub*


Gentle Typhoon AP-15s will work perfectly.


Thanks for the info had to preoreder them from frozencpu they told me they will ship by end of week


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


Soz read it wrong. Yeh 12 AP-15s should set you back around $230. Btw what you cooling with that? That is some insane rad surface


I got a XSPC h1 cube and four rx360 rads all in the box for a real low price so I am trying to order everything to make a build . . . I wanted a th10 but this ugly thing only cost me $100


----------



## nicksasa

My pump died a month ago, just stopped while i was gaming. Atleast nothing got damaged ...
Got a new one < 1 week (but it wasn't from xspc directly, the retailer).As quiet as the other one.

Also replaced the tubing while I was at it with some Feser UV black.

I should really get an extra RS/RX240 and some AP-15's, don't have much OC headroom left on my cpu.


----------



## Worple

How old was the pump that went out ?


----------



## vcrazy

just put in my order for RS240! I can't wait


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;14840747*
> Thanks for the info had to preoreder them from frozencpu they told me they will ship by end of week


You could have gotten them this week from Aquatuning.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Well, waiting on Thursday to get paid and complete my order(rs 240 kit), im thinking of using these cables to connect the 4 fans (push/pull)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28837
if i connect it directly to a molex all the fans will run @ max speed right?


----------



## LivingChampion

Is it worth redoing my thermal paste? I did the spread method and it was really messy when I stuck it back in. Temps seem ok, about 60c max with prime and about 44-52c max while gaming on Starcraft using the RX360 kit and CPU alone.

Think I can get better temps if I clean and replace it with the pea/dot method? Also noticed my 4th core's idle temps are 33-36 and it's also the highest during gaming at 52c while the other three idle around 25-29.


----------



## kdon

just ordered an RS240 kit for my new 400r, mounting it in the top in push/pull, will post pictures of the installation for those curious







excited for my first venture into wcing!


----------



## Yukss

Hi guys i want to share and know something, i have a 360kit bougth from frozen cpu 4months go and my pump died after two months, just stoped working, i contac xspc and gave a new one direct from japan, nice contact service btw, it's been 2 months since i have my new pump and everything looks ok, but if my pump die on me again, will they replace it again?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;14848304*
> Hi guys i want to share and know something, i have a 360kit bougth from frozen cpu 4months go and my pump died after two months, just stoped working, i contac xspc and gave a new one direct from japan, nice contact service btw, it's been 2 months since i have my new pump and everything looks ok, but if my pump die on me again, will they replace it again?


They should, I don't see why they wouldn't.

I've been running for almost 8 months now without a problem. Hope my pump keeps going


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;14847409*
> Well, waiting on Thursday to get paid and complete my order(rs 240 kit), im thinking of using these cables to connect the 4 fans (push/pull)
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28837
> if i connect it directly to a molex all the fans will run @ max speed right?


Yes, if it's connect directly to your PSU connector, they will run at full speed.


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;14848304*
> Hi guys i want to share and know something, i have a 360kit bougth from frozen cpu 4months go and my pump died after two months, just stoped working, i contac xspc and gave a new one direct from japan, nice contact service btw, it's been 2 months since i have my new pump and everything looks ok, but if my pump die on me again, will they replace it again?


They should. I believe they are warranty covered for 1 year. If it dies out of warranty, just get a DDC or D5 pump with matching XSPC dual 5.25 bay reservoir for either one of those pumps and it will drop right in where the stock X20 750 pump/res was fitted in your case. Those pumps will have more flow and handle more restriction, so it would be an upgrade over stock kit pump.


----------



## Yukss

Thanks for the replies, i still have the broken one and it looks new, but the reservoir bay is stick together with some kind of glue, it does not have any screws to remove..


----------



## asuindasun

Will soon be joining the club







leak testing my loop right now, 2 hours and good so far. Now just need to find a camera...


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss;14848517*
> Thanks for the replies, i still have the broken one and it looks new, but the reservoir bay is stick together with some kind of glue, it does not have any screws to remove..


There is no way to replace the pump without breaking open the stock reservoir. They build the reservoir around the pump. I just got a second DDC-1T pump from BMaverick here on OCN and will be swapping out my stock X20 pump/res on my other PC soon. They have a bit more noise, but flow rate is really good with multiple waterblocks and rads installed.


----------



## Worple

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *LivingChampion*   Is it worth redoing my thermal paste? I did the spread method and it was really messy when I stuck it back in. Temps seem ok, about 60c max with prime and about 44-52c max while gaming on Starcraft using the RX360 kit and CPU alone.

Think I can get better temps if I clean and replace it with the pea/dot method? Also noticed my 4th core's idle temps are 33-36 and it's also the highest during gaming at 52c while the other three idle around 25-29.  
I have heard alot of people say that its normal to see a 10c between cores. As for applying TIM maybe this will help you out sir.
  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4&feature=player_embedded


----------



## nicksasa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;14843029*
> How old was the pump that went out ?


~3 months I think.


----------



## JoshHuman

It's looking like my pump died on me this morning. I guess 24/7 folding for the last 4 months was too much for it. Once I get home to confirm it is a dead pump I will be emailing xspc for a replacement. If it is dead I don't know if I should trust the replacement or pick up a new res and pump.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Too many dead pumps is keeping me away from the "add to cart" button.


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;14855126*
> Too many dead pumps is keeping me away from the "add to cart" button.


yeah i ordered mine earlier in the week and am starting to get scared... what's the best way to protect the computer against a pump dying and overheating the cpu? pray it shuts itself off when the temp gets too high? haha...


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdon;14855238*
> yeah i ordered mine earlier in the week and am starting to get scared... what's the best way to protect the computer against a pump dying and overheating the cpu? pray it shuts itself off when the temp gets too high? haha...


Intel CPUs are designed to throttle the frequency when the temps gets too high. And if that doesn't help, it will shut down to prevent any damage. Not saying that you should hit this threshold, but there is some safety net in the event that your pump fails.

I'm not sure about AMDs though

I ordered my kit yesterday. It should arrive next week


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;14855394*
> Intel CPUs are designed to throttle the frequency when the temps gets too high. And if that doesn't help, it will shut down to prevent any damage. Not saying that you should hit this threshold, but there is some safety net in the event that your pump fails.
> 
> I'm not sure about AMDs though
> 
> I ordered my kit yesterday. It should arrive next week


Same with AMD's. I believe they shut down at about 74*C or thereabouts.


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;14855856*
> Same with AMD's. I believe they shut down at about 74*C or thereabouts.


whoa 74c? Tjmax is like 98C for my sandy... are the amd's 45nm?


----------



## Worple

Wow Kahbrohn I have not seen you post here in awhile you ok sir?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;14856860*
> Wow Kahbrohn I have not seen you post here in awhile you ok sir?


I'm even worse than Kahbrohn. Pretty much read this every day but don't often post any more. The questions are usually repeats (which can mostly be answered if you were to look in the FAQ section). I still jump in when something unusual comes up though.


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdon;14855888*
> whoa 74c? Tjmax is like 98C for my sandy... are the amd's 45nm?


I believe Sandy throttles at around 80*C


----------



## JoshHuman

False alarm, my pump is fine. There must have been a clog as a tear down and clean out got it up and running.


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshHuman;14858737*
> False alarm, my pump is fine. There must have been a clog as a tear down and clean out got it up and running.


wooT! good to hear


----------



## vcrazy

Question:

If I got the RS240 kit and wanted the RX360 rad, could I just do a swap on rad or do I have to look into a better pump/res combo?

Thoughts?


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;14859193*
> Question:
> 
> If I got the RS240 kit and wanted the RX360 rad, could I just do a swap on rad or do I have to look into a better pump/res combo?
> 
> Thoughts?


nope, its the same pump in all the kits except the RS120 i believe! you'll be fine!

check http://www.overclock.net/12376083-post4038.html, in it is a link to the kit specs and you'll see that all of the pump/res combos are the same except for rs120


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;14858718*
> I believe Sandy throttles at around 80*C


quaaa mines gotten up to 82 @5ghz on IBT when i was air cooling and the gflops never suffered


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;14859193*
> Question:
> 
> If I got the RS240 kit and wanted the RX360 rad, could I just do a swap on rad or do I have to look into a better pump/res combo?
> 
> Thoughts?


Exactly what KDon said, the pump is the same for all kits


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdon;14859308*
> nope, its the same pump in all the kits except the RS120 i believe! you'll be fine!
> 
> check http://www.overclock.net/12376083-post4038.html, in it is a link to the kit specs and you'll see that all of the pump/res combos are the same except for rs120


Thanks mate. I'm definitely having buyers remorse...wanting to go bigger


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;14859615*
> Thanks mate. I'm definitely having buyers remorse...wanting to go bigger


haha if its a cpu only loop you dont really need a 360, but if you are adding in a gpu or two i'd definitely add another rad and possibly a 2nd pump for redundancy/flow rate


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdon;14859324*
> quaaa mines gotten up to 82 @5ghz on IBT when i was air cooling and the gflops never suffered


Yeah, I thought 80 sounded low. I'm seeing 90-95c is when throttling occurs.


----------



## pwnography6

Ok guys im planning on getting a NB waterblock for my board when it comes out and i also want to swap my rs240 rad out of the top of my haf-x case for a rx360.

Looking at the crosshair V water blocks (Which im assuming the sabertooth990 ones will be similar). Im not sure if this is all gonna fit has anyone got a similar setup to this in a haf-x with 360 rad and nb block?

Here is a photo of the crosshair v waterblock for reference.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=18305

Edit. nvm didn't think of ram clearence and i don't think it's gonna happen with vengence heatsinks.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14828739*
> Nice! Is that a fan controller above the res?


Sorry it to so long to respond jetboy, yes it is. It's a Sunbeam PL-RS-6 Rheosmart 6 5.25" Bay 6 Channel PWM Fan Speed Controller. I've got it controlling each of the six fans in my case. It kinda steps outside the color theme I'm going with (green leds instead of blue) but it works so well for me, I couldn't pass it up.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574;14863986*
> Sorry it to so long to respond jetboy, yes it is. It's a Sunbeam PL-RS-6 Rheosmart 6 5.25" Bay 6 Channel PWM Fan Speed Controller. I've got it controlling each of the six fans in my case. It kinda steps outside the color theme I'm going with (green leds instead of blue) but it works so well for me, I couldn't pass it up.


Gotcha, nice!


----------



## vcrazy

Is anyone using the CM Sickleflow 120 Fans for their push/pull config? Just curious how well these are? Lookin for some low noise, good flow fans with some color


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;14865809*
> Is anyone using the CM Sickleflow 120 Fans for their push/pull config? Just curious how well these are? Lookin for some low noise, good flow fans with some color


I have a red led CM Sickle Flow 120 fan and I would not recommend it. It sounds fine at full speed in your hand in the open, but once you mount it against a mesh/case/rad fins, it creates a off pitch roar fan noise which is annoying. What I used instead was Koolance 120mm fans. They only have a blue led version and are only slightly louder than my GT AP-15s at full speed, which is not bad, since they are 2000 rpm fans and my AP-15s are 1850 rpm. I have the Koolance fans on a Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 fan controller via CPU fan PWM control.

http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=684


----------



## DEEBS808

She's finally finished.Here is a few pictures.


----------



## Worple

Nice build


----------



## liquoredonlife

Welp, my pump finally died today (after about 7 months). Water inlet temp was 32C, water out post cpu/gpu block was 74C before thermal shutdown. Current restrictions:

XSPC block
EK Radeon HD6970 gpu block
Koolance quick disconnect (one) VL3N series (between GPU and pump inlet)

No warning either, as far as noise was concerned. Hopefully their CS is still as good as when I first started posting in this thread.


----------



## saer

You should have no problem getting a new unit from XSPC, from what I hear their CS is still pretty good.


----------



## Worple

I have not seen anyone post anything but good about xspc service
I just had to call them about some parts missing on my XSPC H1 case they said they would ship it right away no problem, Its only 8 missing thumb screws but there shipping them lol


----------



## Gainward

Hi guys









I'm planning to get the XSPC Rasa RS360.. but i knew that the kit doesn't include any fluid and i have to get a fluid separately, but unfortunately i have no experience with the water cooling so i would ask if this fluid is good :

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Feser-One-Non-Conductive-UV-Cooling-Fluid-for-Water-Cooling-1-Litre--Blue--Blue-pid-3616.html


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward;14878458*
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning to get the XSPC Rasa RS360.. but i knew that the kit doesn't include any fluid and i have to get a fluid separately, Unfortunately i have no experience with the water cooling so i would ask if this fluid is good :
> 
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Feser-One-Non-Conductive-UV-Cooling-Fluid-for-Water-Cooling-1-Litre--Blue--Blue-pid-3616.html


For fluids it's pretty much just distilled water and PTnuke or Silver Killcoil. I wouldn't mess with any fancy fluids other than that.


----------



## Worple

I second vcrazy on that and if you want coloring get some tubes you like THIS Frozencpu has alot of colors that you might like


----------



## Busyhand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward;14878458*
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning to get the XSPC Rasa RS360.. but i knew that the kit doesn't include any fluid and i have to get a fluid separately, but unfortunately i have no experience with the water cooling so i would ask if this fluid is good :
> 
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Feser-One-Non-Conductive-UV-Cooling-Fluid-for-Water-Cooling-1-Litre--Blue--Blue-pid-3616.html


Just go to Walmart, and pick up a 4L jug of distilled water for $2, order KillCoil for $5 and you're all set.


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Busyhand;14879199*
> Just go to Walmart, and pick up a 4L jug of distilled water for $2, order KillCoil for $5 and you're all set.


if you get your rasa kit from frozencpu they usually toss in a killcoil for free!


----------



## boost

just got my rs240 kit in, ill post pics later tonight.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward;14878458*
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning to get the XSPC Rasa RS360.. but i knew that the kit doesn't include any fluid and i have to get a fluid separately, but unfortunately i have no experience with the water cooling so i would ask if this fluid is good :
> 
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Feser-One-Non-Conductive-UV-Cooling-Fluid-for-Water-Cooling-1-Litre--Blue--Blue-pid-3616.html


if sweden is anythng like the UK for distilled water you can use de-ionised instead and kill coil


----------



## MajoHeadTrauma

Where does one place the kill coil?


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MajoHeadTrauma;14884947*
> Where does one place the kill coil?


You just drop it inside your res, that's it.


----------



## MajoHeadTrauma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14884986*
> You just drop it inside your res, that's it.


Thanks. I will be putting my rig under water in the next few days. This is a piece of help I will be using.


----------



## robwadeson

how do you fit the kill coil inside the res/pump?







there's no room to do so...


----------



## Ivan TSI

??? There is room. ...


----------



## robwadeson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;14891524*
> ??? There is room. ...


really? I mean the little spiral silver thing. I'm about to buy the rs240 kit that includes the free kill coil







thanks!


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robwadeson;14891563*
> really? I mean the little spiral silver thing. I'm about to buy the rs240 kit that includes the free kill coil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!


It's a tiny piece of silver that you drop in the fillport of the RS240 res. Fits no problem.


----------



## aaron_uf_law

Hey guys,

Just ordered my RX360 kit and it should be coming to me next week. What is everyone's oppinion on the tubing that comes with the kit - use it for now or replace it right away? Right now the plan is to use the kit stock for about 6 months and then upgrade some parts when I drain it for its first scheduled maintenance.

Additionally, do you guys recommend 7/16" tubing or 1/2" tubing with the barbs that come with the kit?


----------



## CramComplex

Hi guys...

So I decided to do general maintenance on my loop...

Here's my Rasa block










Some of the copper pins are either degraded or bent and some are gone...

Is this supposed to happen? I've been running my loop for about 3 months only...


----------



## HiLuckyB

Everyone should take a look at this video, And skip to 5:15. He's running 2 RX360, 2 cpu blocks, 3 GTX 580's all on 1 pump







http://youtu.be/VjeU6957d7Q


----------



## robwadeson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CramComplex*


Hi guys...

So I decided to do general maintenance on my loop...

Here's my Rasa block










Some of the copper pins are either degraded or bent and some are gone...

Is this supposed to happen? I've been running my loop for about 3 months only...


do you use dye in your loop? or maybe it's the way it's supposed to be


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robwadeson;14892863*
> do you use dye in your loop? or maybe it's the way it's supposed to be


No just Distilled and Kill coil...


----------



## battosaii

add me to the club









still leak testing i will put up a better pic tomorrow


----------



## boost

Here are some pics installed in a 600t

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


----------



## modstorm

Hi! I am currently trying to decide between the Rasa 450 RS120 and the Corsair H80. Will I see a huge difference between the two as the Rasa costs 30 EUR more.

Thanks


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;14892854*
> Everyone should take a look at this video, And skip to 5:15. He's running 2 RX360, 2 cpu blocks, 3 GTX 580's all on 1 pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://youtu.be/VjeU6957d7Q


I bet that pump is working its butt off. I am doing a build right now with four 120.3 rads 2 gpus , full motherboard cooling block, and cpu. But I dont have the guts to do it all on one pump lol I gone 3 loops


----------



## battosaii

here


----------



## kdon

hey, anyone else here have an rs kit and a 24/7 5ghz overclock? my load temps can get into the 80's with this kit and i'm trying to figure out what I did wrong... and water temps obviously arent 80, its the cpu core temp. Applied noctua nt-h1 as i usually do, and tightened the bolts and washers below all the way down. Thanks for your time!


----------



## Frontsidebus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aaron_uf_law*


Hey guys,

Just ordered my RX360 kit and it should be coming to me next week. What is everyone's oppinion on the tubing that comes with the kit - use it for now or replace it right away? Right now the plan is to use the kit stock for about 6 months and then upgrade some parts when I drain it for its first scheduled maintenance.

Additionally, do you guys recommend 7/16" tubing or 1/2" tubing with the barbs that come with the kit?


It's s***. Mine started turning yellow after only a few weeks in operation.
Best off sticking with the size of the stock hose IMO.


----------



## aaron_uf_law

Thanks, Frontsidebus. + rep for you.

I will probably order some 7/16" Primochill tubing then. Still unclear why the kit uses 7/16" rather than 1/2" since the barbds are 1/2". I know it fits tighter on the barbs, but it seems like it would be a pain to take off each time I drained the loop for maintenance.


----------



## Greenback

the tight fit is probbably the reason they do it less chance of leaks, and ppl blaming xspc when they do it wrong


----------



## Ivan TSI

Why are you going to take the tubing out every time you drain it?
Just do a drain line


----------



## Ivan TSI

Im going to order my kit this week (if there are no $urprises this week) RS 240 kit + primochill 7/16" uv blue + metal clamps (don't trust plastic) + swiftech rad box to mount it externally since there is no way to fit the rs240 internally without modding the case


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Everyone should take a look at this video, And skip to 5:15. He's running 2 RX360, 2 cpu blocks, 3 GTX 580's all on 1 pump







http://youtu.be/VjeU6957d7Q


Cool


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


Im going to order my kit this week (if there are no $urprises this week) RS 240 kit + primochill 7/16" uv blue + metal clamps (don't trust plastic) + swiftech rad box to mount it externally since there is no way to fit the rs240 internally without modding the case


Sweet! Have fun! I live my kit, temps, and quietness.


----------



## aaron_uf_law

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


Why are you going to take the tubing out every time you drain it?
Just do a drain line


If I have to cut the tube each time I drain it to get it off, then I have to replace at least that tube. But I was thinking more about adding stuff to the system.

The drain line makes sense, though.


----------



## Dragon69

hello everyon, may i also join this thread








here is some pictures of my rig


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aaron_uf_law*


If I have to cut the tube each time I drain it to get it off, then I have to replace at least that tube. But I was thinking more about adding stuff to the system.

The drain line makes sense, though.


I made a drain line and it's one of the best things I could have done!


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dragon69*


hello everyon, may i also join this thread








here is some pictures of my rig



Well . . . I guess so.









Welcome!!!


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dragon69*


hello everyon, may i also join this thread








here is some pictures of my rig


it mayb that i'm getting old but thats just to much lighting for me, but it does look good


----------



## modstorm

Hi! Can anyone please suggest me some stores from where I can get a Rasa 750 RS240 that ship to Malta with reasonable shipping charges







?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *modstorm*


Hi! Can anyone please suggest me some stores from where I can get a Rasa 750 RS240 that ship to Malta with reasonable shipping charges







?


could try they ship internationally not sure on how much though
specialtech.co.uk


----------



## Ivan TSI

T + drain plug = dont have to change tubing in a long time.
Talking about that, how often does the tubing needs to be replaced (i will be using distilled + kill coil)?


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dragon69*


hello everyon, may i also join this thread








here is some pictures of my rig 


















































Awesome build but "Damn she a bright one."Must light up you entire town lol


----------



## modstorm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


could try they ship internationally not sure on how much though
specialtech.co.uk


I already gave them a go







Their shiipoing price is Â£55 putting the total at almost Â£200







Any other suggestions ?

Thanks


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *modstorm*


I already gave them a go







Their shiipoing price is Â£55 putting the total at almost Â£200







Any other suggestions ?

Thanks










have you tried xspc them selves they have a shop


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


T + drain plug = dont have to change tubing in a long time.
Talking about that, how often does the tubing needs to be replaced (i will be using distilled + kill coil)?


If you do maintenance, you probably don't "need" to replace tubing for a long time. I personally decided to change it out once a year, but totally random decision.

Distiller and kill coil is all you "should" use.


----------



## Prodigy195

Hoping to join the club. Recently moved my system over to a 600t and added a XSPC kit(my first venture into water-cooling). Very satisfied with the overall look and very happy with the temperatures.



















Leak testing. Fortunately I had no issues.



































I plan on swapping out the fans included in the kit for something better in the near future.


















Prime hasn't been running for too long here(maybe an hour or so) but with a Zalman CNPS9700 I'd already be pushing the 60C range. Very happy with the cooling performance. Slightly OC'ing a PII 965 to 3.7Ghz.


----------



## Gainward

Thanks guys for the help i appreciate it..

Now i'v got another question









Would the stock tubing(RS360)+ Feser 1 Blue UV look better than Blue UV tubing ?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


Thanks guys for the help i appreciate it..

Now i'v got another question









Would the stock tubing(RS360)+ Feser 1 Blue UV look better than Blue UV tubing ?


the stock tubing is crap you will need to change it so may aswell go uv blue distilled water + killcoil


----------



## Gainward

Ok, but would this one fits with the kit? http://www.coolingstuff.se/p/311/mas...-10-13-uv-blue

or maybe this : http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cust...roductid=11313


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aaron_uf_law*


If I have to cut the tube each time I drain it to get it off, then I have to replace at least that tube. But I was thinking more about adding stuff to the system.

The drain line makes sense, though.


7/16in tubing with or without clamps (would still recommend clamps), or 1/2in tubing with clamps.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


Ok, but would this one fits with the kit? http://www.coolingstuff.se/p/311/mas...-10-13-uv-blue

or maybe this : http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cust...roductid=11313


this 1 is the same size as the stock
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_...--UV-blue.html

your first 1 will go but it is tight and needs to be cut to remove it
http://www.coolingstuff.se/p/311/mas...-10-13-uv-blue

second 1 is what i have on my sig you will need clamps for it and tbh when funds allow I will be changing it to 7/16 ID 5/8 OD i think it looks to fat and bulky
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cust...roductid=11313


----------



## robwadeson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prodigy195*


Hoping to join the club. Recently moved my system over to a 600t and added a XSPC kit(my first venture into water-cooling). Very satisfied with the overall look and very happy with the temperatures.



















Leak testing. Fortunately I had no issues.



































I plan on swapping out the fans included in the kit for something better in the near future.


















Prime hasn't been running for too long here(maybe an hour or so) but with a Zalman CNPS9700 I'd already be pushing the 60C range. Very happy with the cooling performance. Slightly OC'ing a PII 965 to 3.7Ghz.


















very nice set up. As I can see you don't use any of the clamps?


----------



## Prodigy195

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robwadeson;14903556*
> very nice set up. As I can see you don't use any of the clamps?


When the kit was first installed no I didn't. I wanted to order some different clamps with a look I preferred and I still haven't purchased any. I guess I should pop the included ones on for the temporary.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


Thanks guys for the help i appreciate it..

Now i'v got another question









Would the stock tubing(RS360)+ Feser 1 Blue UV look better than Blue UV tubing ?


DON'T USE DYE's or colored fluids!!!!!!
They will clog your system/blocks in no time
Just use distilled + kill coil ( or PT nuke, the one you prefer). If you want color use color tubing.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


Thanks guys for the help i appreciate it..

Now i'v got another question









Would the stock tubing(RS360)+ Feser 1 Blue UV look better than Blue UV tubing ?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


DON'T USE DYE's or colored fluids!!!!!!
They will clog your system/blocks in no time
Just use distilled + kill coil ( or PT nuke, the one you prefer). If you want color use color tubing.


This. But to actually answer your question, I think clear tubing with uv reactive dye in the water looks best. It would just require more maintenance to maintain.


----------



## ThaNoob

I'm about to buy a Xspc rs240 kit but I have a few concerns that I would like to put to rest before I buy.

Waterblock/Pump

-Has anyone had leaks in their Rasa water block or pump?
-If so was it a crack or a seal failure from the waterblock itself or the barbs?
-How long would you say a pump would last you for with good maintenance ?
-Is the pump removable? So i can replace it or do I have to send it back with the reservoir to have it fixed?

I am only cooling a 2500k o/c4.0ghz I can't cool my gpu due to the fact that I can't find water blocks for my egva 450gts. Reason I'm going water cooling is for better temps and preventing dust build up in my system by having less fans.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThaNoob*


I'm about to buy a Xspc rs240 kit but I have a few concerns that I would like to put to rest before I buy.

Waterblock/Pump

-Has anyone had leaks in their Rasa water block or pump?
-If so was it a crack or a seal failure from the waterblock itself or the barbs?
-How long would you say a pump would last you for with good maintenance ?
-Is the pump removable? So i can replace it or do I have to send it back with the reservoir to have it fixed?

I am only cooling a 2500k o/c4.0ghz I can't cool my gpu due to the fact that I can't find water blocks for my egva 450gts. Reason I'm going water cooling is for better temps and preventing dust build up in my system by having less fans.


-I have not.

-If it's going to leak it's likely they didn't tighten the barbs enough, they took the block apart and didn't properly re-situate the O-ring, the tubing is too loose without clamps, ect. (Mostly user failure)

-Can't really say.

-Non-removable, you have to get it RMAd. You don't have to send it back, and its usually at your door within a few days of RMAing.

Fill out your system specs btw.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


-I have not.

-If it's going to leak it's likely they didn't tighten the barbs enough, they took the block apart and didn't properly re-situate the O-ring, the tubing is too loose without clamps, ect. (Mostly user failure)

-Can't really say.

-Non-removable, you have to get it RMAd. You don't have to send it back, and its usually at your door within a few days of RMAing.

Fill out your system specs btw.


This.

I'd say the res/pump would last years, if used properly.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo;14913251*
> This.
> 
> I'd say the res/pump would last years, if used properly.


Haha... very specific


----------



## ThaNoob

Thank you for the reassurance. My system specs are as follow
2500k i5 running at 3.4 because I dont have cooling yet
ripjaw 1600 8-8-8-24 2x4gb I'm a noob at memory o/c so yea if you guys can link me.
asus p8p67 Le
evga 450gts Planning on sli
asus 600w psu
Haf 912 case

So would the Rasa kit fit my case and would the psu support 5 fans such as the yeti loons+sli of the evga 450gts's, and the water pump from the new cooling system. Another thing is I'm trying to run my system with as little maintenance. I don't really mind checking for leaks couple times a month but its the washing and the taking apart that I feel is going to be a hassle. So if you guys got any tips on that it would really help also


----------



## ThaNoob

All I'm going for in my water build is lower temps and lower noises/dust build up no lights or anything that will help algae growth. So I was thinking about getting silver lined tubing or Tygon Norprene Industrial Grade Thermoplastic Elastomer Tubing because they are both seem to last the test of time pretty well and might help me with the low maintenance idea. Of course also getting the killcoil, pt nuke, anti corrosion, and of course distilled water xD


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaNoob;14916071*
> All I'm going for in my water build is lower temps and lower noises/dust build up no lights or anything that will help algae growth. So I was thinking about getting silver lined tubing or Tygon Norprene Industrial Grade Thermoplastic Elastomer Tubing because they are both seem to last the test of time pretty well and might help me with the low maintenance idea. Of course also getting the killcoil, pt nuke, anti corrosion, and of course distilled water xD


WOW!!







You don't need all of those things listed in the last sentence. It's either PTNuke, *OR* a killcoil. There's absolutely NO need for both.... Also, if you use one of these, there's honestly no need for anti-corrosive either...

Just wanted to state this, becuase it would be a blatent waste of stuff, and(of course) $...


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Just ordered my RS360 kit from FrozenCPU.... Eagerly awaiting arrival, will install and have pictures this weekend! I'm hoping this kit will help me get my 1100T over the 4ghz wall, the thing just loves to make tons of heat with the current CoolerMaster V10 that's on it right now. I just got the straight kit and FrozenCPU is throwing in a free silver kill coil, so that pretty much took care of the distilled water treatment. And they are still taking the discount code on post 1, thanks for mentioning that.

Great thread(s)!


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r;14916326*
> Just ordered my RS360 kit from FrozenCPU.... Eagerly awaiting arrival, will install and have pictures this weekend! I'm hoping this kit will help me get my 1100T over the 4ghz wall, the thing just loves to make tons of heat with the current CoolerMaster V10 that's on it right now. I just got the straight kit and FrozenCPU is throwing in a free silver kill coil, so that pretty much took care of the distilled water treatment. And they are still taking the discount code on post 1, thanks for mentioning that.
> 
> Great thread(s)!


Cool! Can't wait to see some awesome pics!!! Frozencpu really is a great website. I love them there. I don't know if you have ever called them, but their employees are VERY polite and nice over the phone. Love 'em


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14916365*
> Cool! Can't wait to see some awesome pics!!! Frozencpu really is a great website. I love them there. I don't know if you have ever called them, but their employees are VERY polite and nice over the phone. Love 'em


Yeah I have always been a stalker there... Always been eyeing the water cooling stuff and whatnot. I played with some rinky dink all in one system waaay back in the day that I got from Fry's and havent done it since. Well I just rebuilt my PC (went from a Q6600 w/ single 6870 -> 1100T BE w/ dual 6870) and I had to try my hand at overclocking again. Well, I managed to hit a heat wall with air, and this kit was just too good to pass up. I did a lot of looking around and pretty much consensus is that this kit is great for the cash. And you can add to it later!

PS: Heres the POS i used 8 years ago (good lord i feel old now...) http://www.overclockercafe.com/Reviews/cooling/Tt_Aquarius_III/


----------



## aaron_uf_law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaNoob;14915965*
> Thank you for the reassurance. My system specs are as follow
> 2500k i5 running at 3.4 because I dont have cooling yet
> ripjaw 1600 8-8-8-24 2x4gb I'm a noob at memory o/c so yea if you guys can link me.
> asus p8p67 Le
> evga 450gts Planning on sli
> asus 600w psu
> Haf 912 case
> 
> So would the Rasa kit fit my case and would the psu support 5 fans such as the yeti loons+sli of the evga 450gts's, and the water pump from the new cooling system. Another thing is I'm trying to run my system with as little maintenance. I don't really mind checking for leaks couple times a month but its the washing and the taking apart that I feel is going to be a hassle. So if you guys got any tips on that it would really help also


If I recall correctly, the Asus P8P67 LE motherboard does not support SLI, it only supports crossfire. (Link to ASUS specifications here) If so, you won't be able to SLI two GTS450's together. Just want to make sure you check before purchasing another video card.

Another option would be to buy two new AMD cards for crossfire.


----------



## ThaNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaron_uf_law;14916599*
> If I recall correctly, the Asus P8P67 LE motherboard does not support SLI, it only supports crossfire. (Link to ASUS specifications here) If so, you won't be able to SLI two GTS450's together. Just want to make sure you check before purchasing another video card.
> 
> Another option would be to buy two new AMD cards for crossfire.


***!!! When I built my new rig the guy told me the motherboard supports sli...how much would 2 crossfire cards be at around same performance as 450gts's I'm a noob at amd gpu's. Thank you for pointing that out to me


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaron_uf_law;14916599*
> If I recall correctly, the Asus P8P67 LE motherboard does not support SLI, it only supports crossfire. (Link to ASUS specifications here) If so, you won't be able to SLI two GTS450's together. Just want to make sure you check before purchasing another video card.
> 
> Another option would be to buy two new AMD cards for crossfire.


You can SLI on mobos that don't support it.


----------



## aaron_uf_law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14916976*
> You can SLI on mobos that don't support it.


Didn't know that!!! It is actually one of the reasons I bought the P8P67 Pro, so I could support both. C'est la vie . . .


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;14916976*
> You can SLI on mobos that don't support it.


not on the new p67 or z68 boards.


----------



## ThaNoob

So can I support it on my p8p67 or not? which is it T-T It's so sad for me right now i wasted money on a 450gts


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaNoob;14917467*
> So can I support it on my p8p67 or not? which is it T-T It's so sad for me right now i wasted money on a 450gts


Didn't know the P67 boards were like that, guess you can't.


----------



## aaron_uf_law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaNoob;14916908*
> ***!!! When I built my new rig the guy told me the motherboard supports sli...how much would 2 crossfire cards be at around same performance as 450gts's I'm a noob at amd gpu's. Thank you for pointing that out to me


The AMD cards that are closest performance wise to to a GTS450 are the following:

1) HD 4850
2) HD 5750
3) HD 6750

However, instead of buying two new cards, I would buy one better card (if you decide not to use your current card as a single GPU), run with that for awhile, and then add another one later down the road. That is what I am doing right now.

But I also understand the draw of having more than one card in a system . . .


----------



## ThaNoob

Thanks for the info I guess I would just have to make due running single card. Maybe I'll just buy new mobo later on and sell the p8p67 le







As for now time to order my xspc water cooling kit


----------



## ThaNoob

I will be buying a new motherboard and selling my old one to my friend...Is it hard to swap out a motherboard? What would I need to do after installing new Motherboard into my rig delete old mobo software and install new one? I'm going for a Asus p8p67 pro for sli. Also I really wanna know if my 600w psu can support all the upgrades I want to do the Rasa kit pump, New motherboard, sli of the 450's ,and about 5 120mm fans. Once again you guys are great help ty


----------



## Taylorsci

 Motherboard software? Just take everything out and put it in the new one. Some people say to do a fresh install of the OS when changing the MOBO, but I wouldn't bother unless you start having problems.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaNoob;14916908*
> ***!!! When I built my new rig the guy told me the motherboard supports sli...how much would 2 crossfire cards be at around same performance as 450gts's I'm a noob at amd gpu's. Thank you for pointing that out to me


A similar card to the GTS 450 is the radeon 5670. The 5670 DOES support xfire, so this should work great!


----------



## Gainward

Guys do you know how much time does it take until i get the kit (RS360) if I buy from FrozenCPU?
I mean how fast is the shipping?

I live in Sweden/Europe


----------



## Jobotoo

They took a few days to a week to ship stuff to me. So add to that the time things take to ship from the U.S. to your county. Couple weeks maybe? What shipping method is being used?


----------



## mav2000

Hi, I thought this would be the only club in the whole world who would be able to answer my question. What type of screws are used for the front alu panel to be mounted to the res? I tried M3 and M4 screws but both dont fit. Is it 6/32 by any chance?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mav2000*


Hi, I thought this would be the only club in the whole world who would be able to answer my question. What type of screws are used for the front alu panel to be mounted to the res? I tried M3 and M4 screws but both dont fit. Is it 6/32 by any chance?


Yes they are 6/32.


----------



## mav2000

Thanks and rep buddy


----------



## FullFlash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


Guys do you know how much time does it take until i get the kit (RS360) if I buy from FrozenCPU? 
I mean how fast is the shipping?

I live in Sweden/Europe


I bought my kit from FrozenCPU using the USPS shipping just arrived yesterday
It took to arrive to Qatar in only 6 days
So you can be assured it will arrive to Sweden much much faster then that!
Will always buy from them thats for sure


----------



## Gainward

I'm so grateful for your answers guys ..

Edit: I'v just ordered the RS360 from FrozenCPU


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Good luck! I just got mine installed and am putting it through the paces now. I grabbed a 20*C drop under load compared to the Cooler Master V10 cooler -- quite an upgrade if I do say so...


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r*


Good luck! I just got mine installed and am putting it through the paces now. I grabbed a 20*C drop under load compared to the Cooler Master V10 cooler -- quite an upgrade if I do say so...










nice setup!

But seriously with the Monster?


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14963623*
> nice setup!
> 
> But seriously with the Monster?


He's running Monster in them tubes, that's why its a 20degree drop xD

I'm debating if I should upgrade my PSU to a AX850 because I notice when stressing my CPU only, I have a fan controller that tells me how much power is being pulled from the cord and it says 550watt. I don't think this HX650 could do the GPU and CPU @ 100%. What you guys think? Should I change it?


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14963750*
> He's running Monster in them tubes, that's why its a 20degree drop xD
> 
> I'm debating if I should upgrade my PSU to a AX850 because I notice when stressing my CPU only, I have a fan controller that tells me how much power is being pulled from the cord and it says 550watt. I don't think this HX650 could do the GPU and CPU @ 100%. What you guys think? Should I change it?


Hahaha.

"Do you use distilled water, or coolant", "neither, I use Monster".

LOL


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;14963773*
> Hahaha.
> 
> "Do you use distilled water, or coolant", "neither, I use Monster".
> 
> LOL


Love testing my [email protected] on the rasa, 20 pass linx hottest core is 33degrees lol'd. Bet monster would give me a 10degree drop on that


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14963809*
> Love testing my [email protected] on the rasa, 20 pass linx hottest core is 33degrees lol'd. Bet monster would give me a 10degree drop on that


hahaha


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Y'all need to quit hating on the Monster Coolant, this **** is for real.


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;14963750*
> He's running Monster in them tubes, that's why its a 20degree drop xD
> 
> I'm debating if I should upgrade my PSU to a AX850 because I notice when stressing my CPU only, I have a fan controller that tells me how much power is being pulled from the cord and it says 550watt. I don't think this HX650 could do the GPU and CPU @ 100%. What you guys think? Should I change it?


I wouldn't bother, you can run your 580 and CPU easily on an HX650, even with it all overlocked and at 100%. Bear in mind that you can run SLI 580s and a mildly overclocked CPU on a 750W so you've got plenty for a single card setup. PSU forum calculator.


----------



## lightsout

WOOT for monster!!!! I gotta try it.


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

OK, so in reality I am use pure distilled with a single silver kill coil in my res -- CPU only loop, with the Rasa 360 kit. Here is a screen of a 5 test run on Intel Burn at 4.0ghz on my air cooling before installing the Rasa, I was using a cooler master V10 heatsink:










And here is a modest improvement speed wise, but a great improvement temperature wise with the Rasa kit:










This is the first time I have attempted an overclock in several years, so I am still working on it. I think with the upgraded cooling there is a bit more that I can get out of this 1100T... So I may have been a little premature on the 20*C claim, but it did net me a 16* drop, as you can see from the Max temps on the CPU. I had tried to reseat that heatsink once, but its entirely possible something else was fubar'd with it -- i did win it in a raffle at quakecon...


----------



## Agenesis

Fall is almost here and I'm already seeing mid 50~ load temps at 4ghz









Never saw such load temps on my old D14


----------



## Greenback

I'm hoping we get all the snow we had last year going to get extra tubing put my rad out the window


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;14981702*
> I'm hoping we get all the snow we had last year going to get extra tubing put my rad out the window


with how England handles snow days (or doesnt), you might not have to leave the house much anyway


----------



## ShaCanX

Finally grew the balls and did my long overdue summer tear down and rebuild. Man, cleaning and changing watercooling parts is no joke full days work. I tidied up my loop added blue uv tubing, and redid the cabling.
Here are the results...


----------



## Vandal4126

That's why I bought compression fittings and added a drain before I completed my loop. Maintenance should be a breeze xD

Btw whys the killcoil in the piping? Why not leave it in the res.


----------



## ShaCanX

Habbit Like to know their is water flowing over it. Definitely considering a drain when next I bleed and clean.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kdon*


with how England handles snow days (or doesnt), you might not have to leave the house much anyway










well the goverment could spend money on snow ploughs and such but they preffer to send money to countries that don't need it and buy Â£300 laptops for Â£3000


----------



## KonigGeist

I just bought my RS240 kit in a few days ago and got it installed, but I have two questions:

1. I've seen the videos of the noisy pumps, but I'm not really sure how quiet a normal pump is. My pump makes a sound kind of like my hard drive, but quieter. I can hear it up to about 3-4 feet away. Is that normal, or is it too loud?

2. I'm running my 950 at 4.0 with 1.296 volts, and I'm loading at around 70 on Prime and idling at around 40 with 23 ambient. On my NH-D14, with the same voltages, I would load at around 80. I've seen some people on similar/the same chip and they seemed to be getting in the low 60s, and idling closer to ambient. Do my temperatures seem appropriate?


----------



## Icekilla

Could a Rasa 360 kit be able to handle an i7 980 @ 4.4GHz + a couple of GTX 580's in the same loop, supposing you're using 4 fans in the radiator for push/pull?


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icekilla;15017178*
> Could a Rasa 360 kit be able to handle an i7 980 @ 4.4GHz + a couple of GTX 580's in the same loop, supposing you're using 4 fans in the radiator for push/pull?


You're probably going to need another rad like a 240 to handle those components


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KonigGeist;15016917*
> I just bought my RS240 kit in a few days ago and got it installed, but I have two questions:
> 
> 1. I've seen the videos of the noisy pumps, but I'm not really sure how quiet a normal pump is. My pump makes a sound kind of like my hard drive, but quieter. I can hear it up to about 3-4 feet away. Is that normal, or is it too loud?
> 
> 2. I'm running my 950 at 4.0 with 1.296 volts, and I'm loading at around 70 on Prime and idling at around 40 with 23 ambient. On my NH-D14, with the same voltages, I would load at around 80. I've seen some people on similar/the same chip and they seemed to be getting in the low 60s, and idling closer to ambient. Do my temperatures seem appropriate?


1. If you are running it with water in it, and you can hear it from 3-4 feet away, then that is not normal... AT ALL. I put my ear right to the side of my case, and I can barely hear it. Are you sure you didn't run it without water before, because that can severely damage the pump, and cause it to make this type of noise.

2. Those temps are not only high, but dangerous. If you are talking about Celsius, then there is a big issue. Make sure that when you put thermal paste on, you make a dot, then let the materblock spread the paste around by itself. The pump may also be the cause of this as well.

If we find out the pump is broken, you can email XSPC, and they will send you a new one ASAP!


----------



## KonigGeist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;15017991*
> 1. If you are running it with water in it, and you can hear it from 3-4 feet away, then that is not normal... AT ALL. I put my ear right to the side of my case, and I can barely hear it. Are you sure you didn't run it without water before, because that can severely damage the pump, and cause it to make this type of noise.
> 
> 2. Those temps are not only high, but dangerous. If you are talking about Celsius, then there is a big issue. Make sure that when you put thermal paste on, you make a dot, then let the materblock spread the paste around by itself. The pump may also be the cause of this as well.
> 
> If we find out the pump is broken, you can email XSPC, and they will send you a new one ASAP!


I never ran the pump without water, so that shouldn't be the problem. Do I need to send any pictures or videos or anything to XSPC, or just an email?

I've never seen those temperatures as being dangerous for a 950; I've been running mine around there since I got it.

Thanks


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KonigGeist;15018382*
> I never ran the pump without water, so that shouldn't be the problem. Do I need to send any pictures or videos or anything to XSPC, or just an email?
> 
> I've never seen those temperatures as being dangerous for a 950; I've been running mine around there since I got it.
> 
> Thanks


For those volts and that ambient, that is extremely high for that kit. I have a RS240 kit my 970 idles as low as 14 on one core and the highest is around 28. On load with 1.41v my temps are only 63 on the hottest core in linx so something is not right with your system. Possibly a faulty pump or the block isn't applied correctly. Also as jetboy said, the pump is practically silent, I have to also put my ear on the front of it to hear a very low buzing noise from the pump.


----------



## KonigGeist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;15018653*
> For those volts and that ambient, that is extremely high for that kit. I have a RS240 kit my 970 idles as low as 14 on one core and the highest is around 23. On load with 1.41v my temps are only 63 on the hottest core in linx so something is not right with your system. Possibly a faulty pump or the block isn't applied correctly. Also as jetboy said, the pump is practically silent, I have to also put my ear on the front of it to hear a very low buzing noise from the pump.


Thanks

I'm fairly certain that the waterblock is installed correctly, as I have reseated it several times. I'll check again later tonight to make sure though.

Since it would appear that the pump may be at fault, how do I go about contacting XSPC?


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KonigGeist;15018822*
> Thanks
> 
> I'm fairly certain that the waterblock is installed correctly, as I have reseated it several times. I'll check again later tonight to make sure though.
> 
> Since it would appear that the pump may be at fault, how do I go about contacting XSPC?


Here Is the link for you


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KonigGeist;15018382*
> I never ran the pump without water, so that shouldn't be the problem. Do I need to send any pictures or videos or anything to XSPC, or just an email?
> 
> I've never seen those temperatures as being dangerous for a 950; I've been running mine around there since I got it.
> 
> Thanks


Send an email first, if they ask for photos or videos, then you can do so accordingly. But for right now, first just tell them what's wrong. THey are very good with sending replacement parts.

Well, many compnaies and processor manufacturers say you should never go above 55C.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;15019894*
> Well, many compnaies and processor manufacturers say you should never go above 55C.


Thats AMD CPU's, Intel can take more heat







1366 can take 80c, But ive always been more comfortable with low 70c's


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Thats AMD CPU's, Intel can take more heat







1366 can take 80c, But ive always been more comfortable with low 70c's










gotcha.


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Thats AMD CPU's, Intel can take more heat







1366 can take 80c, But ive always been more comfortable with low 70c's










lol ye, a 1366 that isn't hitting 70 on 100% is not a happy CPU







They can handle all the way up to 85 no problem afaik. That's cutting it a bit close. Once it reaches 100 then it starts to throttle itself.

Anyone know what's a safe 24/7 voltage for a hex core i7?


----------



## vcrazy

I'm extremely excited! I JUST got my RX360 V2 rad and I'm beginning to piece things together.

One question I have is about the XSPC cpu block. There is a second screw nut to tighten the block onto the CPU. How tight can/should I tighten it? As far as it can go?

What else do I need to do to my rad other than clean it thoroughly with hot water + shake?

Can't wait to post pictures for everyone


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vcrazy*


I'm extremely excited! I JUST got my RX360 V2 rad and I'm beginning to piece things together.

One question I have is about the XSPC cpu block. There is a second screw nut to tighten the block onto the CPU. How tight can/should I tighten it? As far as it can go?

What else do I need to do to my rad other than clean it thoroughly with hot water + shake?

Can't wait to post pictures for everyone










Tighten it until you feel reaction pressure. So like when the block is pushing on the cpu tight, you will feel it in the tightening process. I would do 1 or 2 twists after that. Then use the other tightening knobs on the screws to keep them tightened like that.

And other than cleaning it, there isn't much else to do to the rad.

Have fun!


----------



## gumbie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Thats AMD CPU's, Intel can take more heat







1366 can take 80c, But ive always been more comfortable with low 70c's










Can take 80c? They can take up to 100c - 105c until they shut down to cause any damage lol :\\..

When you use Indigo Xtreme on your cpu, You litterally have to let your cpu run with no fans and your pump turned off, your pc needs to hit 90c - 100c on all cores before the reflow process is complete..

Anyway, KonigGeist what are your ambient temps? Also what fans are you using on the RS240?


----------



## KonigGeist

I emailed XSPC and sent them a video of my pump. I got a reply this morning, and they said that it's not too noisy and it just sounds like a normal motor. I'm not sure if my camera didn't pick up the sound or if I'm extra sensitive to it or something.

I can definitely hear it about 3 feet away over my case fans, air conditioner, and ceiling fan. Is that not too loud?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie;15024917*
> Can take 80c? They can take up to 100c - 105c until they shut down to cause any damage lol :\..
> 
> When you use Indigo Xtreme on your cpu, You litterally have to let your cpu run with no fans and your pump turned off, your pc needs to hit 90c - 100c on all cores before the reflow process is complete..
> 
> Anyway, KonigGeist what are your ambient temps? Also what fans are you using on the RS240?


My ambient is around 22c, and I'm using the stock fans.

Thanks to everyone for the help.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KonigGeist;15027178*
> I emailed XSPC and sent them a video of my pump. I got a reply this morning, and they said that it's not too noisy and it just sounds like a normal motor. I'm not sure if my camera didn't pick up the sound or if I'm extra sensitive to it or something.
> 
> I can definitely hear it about 3 feet away over my case fans, air conditioner, and ceiling fan. Is that not too loud?
> 
> My ambient is around 22c, and I'm using the stock fans.
> 
> Thanks to everyone for the help.


Post it here?


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;15024052*
> Tighten it until you feel reaction pressure. So like when the block is pushing on the cpu tight, you will feel it in the tightening process. I would do 1 or 2 twists after that. Then use the other tightening knobs on the screws to keep them tightened like that.
> 
> And other than cleaning it, there isn't much else to do to the rad.
> 
> Have fun!


Thanks. Also the barbs for the CPU block can just be hand tightened? I'm kinda wary about it leaking in the future if I don't tighten it enough. Currently it's to a point where i can't turn it anymore


----------



## KonigGeist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15027187*
> Post it here?


Is this the right amount of noise? If it is, I won't worry about it.
I just don't want to have a faulty pump









[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJLGRuVWNwo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJLGRuVWNwo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJLGRuVWNwo[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KonigGeist;15027839*
> Is this the right amount of noise? If it is, I won't worry about it.
> I just don't want to have a faulty pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJLGRuVWNwo


Eh. Maybe a little bit on the loud side, but it's not broken loud.


----------



## KonigGeist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15027858*
> Eh. Maybe a little bit on the loud side, but it's not broken loud.


Thanks. As long as there's nothing wrong with it, I don't mind all that much.


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;15027207*
> Thanks. Also the barbs for the CPU block can just be hand tightened? I'm kinda wary about it leaking in the future if I don't tighten it enough. Currently it's to a point where i can't turn it anymore


Just go a 1/4 turn with a wrench that will be all you need


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KonigGeist;15027959*
> Thanks. As long as there's nothing wrong with it, I don't mind all that much.


Thats not bad at all and I bet in a few days the noise goes down for you.
I have 2 Swiftech MCP655 pumps sitting in XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoirs they both make more noise than that


----------



## KonigGeist

Now that it seems the pump is fine, is there anything else that could be affecting my temperatures, or do they seem normal?


----------



## Worple

I would think thats a little high maybe try two more fans in push/pull?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KonigGeist*


Now that it seems the pump is fine, is there anything else that could be affecting my temperatures, or do they seem normal?


I get around the same temps if I push mine up to that voltage. 70 on the hottest core and ~64 on the coldest.


----------



## KonigGeist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15030086*
> I get around the same temps if I push mine up to that voltage. 70 on the hottest core and ~64 on the coldest.


Thanks.
What voltage do you usually run at?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KonigGeist;15030104*
> Thanks.
> What voltage do you usually run at?


1.24v, I'm a bit upset though, I can't get 4.3-4.4+ghz stable no matter how many volts I give it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Can you please add me to this club. I used use a Corsair H50 and I gotta say that these Rasa kits are amazing for the price. I also recently upgraded my RS360 rad for their RX360 and the improvement in cooling performance is about 8 degrees!


----------



## KonigGeist

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


1.24v, I'm a bit upset though, I can't get 4.3-4.4+ghz stable no matter how many volts I give it.


From testing over the past few days, I seem to have the same problem


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KonigGeist*


From testing over the past few days, I seem to have the same problem


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vcrazy*


Thanks. Also the barbs for the CPU block can just be hand tightened? I'm kinda wary about it leaking in the future if I don't tighten it enough. Currently it's to a point where i can't turn it anymore


Once you can't screw it anymore w/ your hands, use a wrench, and tighten it just about 1/5 turn.


----------



## Skyboss

Hello guys!

I'm new to WC and am so excited about my new purchase! I ordered the RS240 kit for my Plex Media server rig. I'll post pics and build log (my first) once I get the kit in.

Summary of parts:

-XSPC RS240 kit
-Primochill tubing 1/2"ID, 3/4"OD
-silver killcoil came with kit
-Koolance quick disconnect x2 for draining (I hope they do well, heard they were having issues too)

These will go in my i3 2100 media server rig, housed in my old Cosmos 1000.
I'm excited to get started and wanted to thank you all for your info in this thread!


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


Once you can't screw it anymore w/ your hands, use a wrench, and tighten it just about 1/5 turn.


I could turn mine until they pulled through the back-plate, so that's probably not the best advice.

I would say just until it gets hard to turn, getting it _*really*_ tight doesn't really matter. Getting it even should be the priority.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I could turn mine until they pulled through the back-plate


Hmmmm, that doesn't sound normal at all ...


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


Can you please add me to this club. I used use a Corsair H50 and I gotta say that these Rasa kits are amazing for the price. I also recently upgraded my RS360 rad for their RX360 and the improvement in cooling performance is about 8 degrees!


Looks nice. I'm also a previous H50 owner who went to the RX360 kit. Any issues putting it in the top of the HAF X? Is it in push pull? I was thinking of changing my case to the HAF X. Currently my rad is mounted externally.


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


I could turn mine until they pulled through the back-plate, so that's probably not the best advice.

I would say just until it gets hard to turn, getting it _*really*_ tight doesn't really matter. Getting it even should be the priority.










Ah I think he was talking about barbs


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*









Ah I think he was talking about barbs


Oh wow, I read it wrong.







Thanks for pointing that out.


----------



## jetboy623

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Oh wow, I read it wrong.







Thanks for pointing that out.


lol, I was gonna say...


----------



## BramSLI1

Garanthor, the problem that I had was that when I set up my fans under the radiator there was just barely any clearance above my RAM. I decided to place them on top of the radiator in a pull configuration instead. I haven't noticed any difference in temperatures by doing this. I hope this helps.


----------



## RaCeR123

I had a quick question, in the rasa pump, which one is the IN and which one is the OUT or does it not matter?


----------



## aaron_uf_law

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


I had a quick question, in the rasa pump, which one is the IN and which one is the OUT or does it not matter?


The out is the barb that is actually connected to the pump. The in is the barb the is in the corner of the res. So, the water comes into the res in the corner and goes through the pump and out of the res right by the pump.


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaCeR123*


I had a quick question, in the rasa pump, which one is the IN and which one is the OUT or does it not matter?


The "in" is the one in the corner (bottom left if you're facing the back to you) while the out is where it's connected to the pump. The outlet is in it's own little cubby where the pump is, and u can actually see the propeller (or whatever it's called) of the pump on the side.

I hope that helps


----------



## RaCeR123

Thanks guys.... I figured that was the logical choice but didn't want to mess up my flow so I figured I might as well ask before I connect the wrong end. Appreciate it


----------



## Worple

My XSPC rig Can I join?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15036724*
> My XSPC rig Can I join?


How do you like that case? I was eyeballing them but I heard some not so great reviews on the build quality.


----------



## Worple

I have had no problems at all other than cutting myself with all the sharp edges lol. It holds a ton of stuff works great for me


----------



## vcrazy

So I've completed my loop last night but didn't fill it with water just yet (it was late and I didn't have time to leak test it since I won't be home for the next couple days).

Anyway, a thought just occurred to me: I'm using white primochill tubing and how am I going to know that I've bleed the system completely of air?

I know there will be air pockets in my tube, as well as my rad and shaking it should dislodge the easier pockets, but how do I know that my system is "air pocket free"? Do I just look at my reservoir? If yes what do I look for.

Thanks!


----------



## Worple

I have black tubing and I used a flashlight to see the air bubbles. As for shaking stuff yes it will get most of the air out but the little bubbles of air will only work there self out with time. You will see these tiny bubbles in the res they will not harm anything


----------



## vcrazy

so just keep filling, shake as needed, and hope most big air pockets are gone?


----------



## Worple

Thats about it but the big one s that would hurt the pump will come out ez just make sure you run the pump at first with the jumper in the kit for your psu


----------



## vcrazy

thanks!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15037104*
> I have had no problems at all other than cutting myself with all the sharp edges lol. It holds a ton of stuff works great for me


Nice to here it from an owner. One of these days I want to get one of these huge cases.


----------



## The_ocho

Just Placed my order at Frozencpu for a RS360 kit. I cant wait for it to get here, this is going to be my first water cooling adventure!


----------



## aaron_uf_law

Take your time and enjoy it. I just put in a RX360 kit last week. So far, so good. Unfortunately, I am already thinking about upgrades -> GPU block!!!


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aaron_uf_law*


Take your time and enjoy it. I just put in a RX360 kit last week. So far, so good. Unfortunately, I am already thinking about upgrades -> GPU block!!!


Exactly why I decided up the 360, so I had the option to do a fairly cheap upgrade adding the GPU block in the future however unlikely it may be. that and its only a few bucks more than the 240. Frozencpu even bundled a free killcoil with the purchase. Now I just have to pick up some water next time Im at the store


----------



## Vandal4126

My case won't fit a 360 inside, so I'm actually thinking of adding another 240 on top in just push. The main problem is the lightening doesn't have any water blocks out. I heard there was a custom one made in limited supply and it cost the price of a new 580 lightning so I was over it


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_ocho*


Just Placed my order at Frozencpu for a RS360 kit. I cant wait for it to get here, this is going to be my first water cooling adventure!


Water cooling is like meth or crack !! try it one time and your hooked


----------



## qhduong92

Guys, I'm new to watercooling (researching for my first loop). Would a RS240 kit + another RS240 rad be enough for 2 GTX 470 + i7 950? I don't want to run super loud fans on them either. Medium speed YL are max I would put on these. Thanks in advance!

Also, is frozencpu the cheapest place to get these kit shipped?


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qhduong92;15046326*
> Guys, I'm new to watercooling (researching for my first loop). Would a RS240 kit + another RS240 rad be enough for 2 GTX 470 + i7 950? I don't want to run super loud fans on them either. Medium speed YL are max I would put on these. Thanks in advance!
> 
> Also, is frozencpu the cheapest place to get these kit shipped?


That would be perfect for your system. And your temps would be fine with YL mediums.
I got my kit at Jabtech.com. I think it was cheaper than frozencpu once I used the promo code FACEBOOK for 5% off. You should check.


----------



## qhduong92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;15046382*
> That would be perfect for your system. And your temps would be fine with YL mediums.
> I got my kit at Jabtech.com. I think it was cheaper than frozencpu once I used the promo code FACEBOOK for 5% off. You should check.


Shipping at frozencpu seems cheapest. Btw the FACEBOOK code doesn't work.. saids invalid.


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qhduong92;15046451*
> Shipping at frozencpu seems cheapest. Btw the FACEBOOK code doesn't work.. saids invalid.


"facebook" code is for jab-tech

To get 5% off your order from FrozenCPU, enter the discount code:

Code:

pcapex

To get 5% off your order from Jabtech, enter the discount code:

Code:

facebook


----------



## Worple

If you want medium fans for max cooling you should get the RX240 kit they have a rad that while thicker the cooling fins are not that close letting you run a med or low speed fans. I use GentleTyphoon AP 15s I turn them to 50% with my fan controller and I have a very quiet pc


----------



## qhduong92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15048197*
> If you want medium fans for max cooling you should get the RX240 kit they have a rad that while thicker the cooling fins are not that close letting you run a med or low speed fans. I use GentleTyphoon AP 15s I turn them to 50% with my fan controller and I have a very quiet pc


I was thinking of that too. Question is, will it fit my CM 690 ii? From reading elsewhere, it seems to fit on the bottom but not the top. Total for the RX240 kit + extra RS240 rad will run me $211 with shipping. And I just ordered a 6950 yesterday that I can't cancel lol.


----------



## idaveop

Soooooo I got my 240 kit and I got it all setup. Temps are around 30 celc idle, running an i7 920 stock in a HAF932. I am thinking of swapping to 4 AP15's to try and knock it down a few more degrees, will they give me a bit of oomph over the stock fans it came with? I am using those for push, and 2 Noctua fans for pull.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *idaveop*


Soooooo I got my 240 kit and I got it all setup. Temps are around 30 celc idle, running an i7 920 stock in a HAF932. I am thinking of swapping to 4 AP15's to try and knock it down a few more degrees, will they give me a bit of oomph over the stock fans it came with? I am using those for push, and 2 Noctua fans for pull.


Push/Pull might help with load temps a bit. You failed to list important temps though, such as ambient and load. Idle temps are irrelevant.


----------



## arfaad

can anyone tell me if this can be mounted in a coolermaster cosmos s without any modding (out of box)? I would mount this radiator (the 240 or 360) at the top inside the case but i'm not sure if the fan screw holes at the top are lined up to suit the mounting options on the rads. Can anyone speak to this?

also, just so i'm sure, the waterblock mounting hardware works with socket 1155 motherboards right? I heard 1156 and 1155 are the same, but i'm just making sure.

PS. maybe the spreadsheets on page 1 of the thread can include what cases the owners use and whether they had to mod it to fit their kits.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arfaad*


can anyone tell me if this can be mounted in a coolermaster cosmos s without any modding (out of box)? I would mount this radiator (the 240 or 360) at the top inside the case but i'm not sure if the fan screw holes at the top are lined up to suit the mounting options on the rads. Can anyone speak to this?

also, just so i'm sure, the waterblock mounting hardware works with socket 1155 motherboards right? I heard 1156 and 1155 are the same, but i'm just making sure.

PS. maybe the spreadsheets on page 1 of the thread can include what cases the owners use and whether they had to mod it to fit their kits.


1155 and 1156 are the same so your good there


----------



## Worple

HI Luckyb long time no see. I got my new build up and running posted his pic a few pages back


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arfaad;15056063*
> can anyone tell me if this can be mounted in a coolermaster cosmos s without any modding (out of box)? I would mount this radiator (the 240 or 360) at the top inside the case but i'm not sure if the fan screw holes at the top are lined up to suit the mounting options on the rads. Can anyone speak to this?
> 
> also, just so i'm sure, the waterblock mounting hardware works with socket 1155 motherboards right? I heard 1156 and 1155 are the same, but i'm just making sure.
> 
> PS. maybe the spreadsheets on page 1 of the thread can include what cases the owners use and whether they had to mod it to fit their kits.[/QUO
> 
> HERE is a guy who worked it out. give it a look


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15056167*
> HI Luckyb long time no see. I got my new build up and running posted his pic a few pages back


I've been keeping up, I just haven't post much lately









I seen your setup, I really want to move to a big case like that one of these days. Right now I haven't put anything new in my rig other then 8GB CL8 Ram.

Right now I have work on finding me a new car, My poor old truck is on its last leg








And I've been putting my money into my KLX 250S. Great little bike


----------



## Worple

Man dont get a car you cant carry your bikes with it. You need a new 4 wheel drive


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15056582*
> Man dont get a car you cant carry your bikes with it. You need a new 4 wheel drive


Yea that would definitely be my first choice








With gas the way it is that's why I've been on the KLX, getting 72mpg when it was stock. Its alittle lower now after jetting









Just alittle off topic sorry about that







I have to many hobbies and not enough money


----------



## ezveedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaveop;15053206*
> Soooooo I got my 240 kit and I got it all setup. Temps are around 30 celc idle, running an i7 920 stock in a HAF932. I am thinking of swapping to 4 AP15's to try and knock it down a few more degrees, will they give me a bit of oomph over the stock fans it came with? I am using those for push, and 2 Noctua fans for pull.


In a HAF932, I would have gone with a RX360 with 3 AP-15s or Koolance 2K RPM fans in push. As long as your CPU is mid 70s under highest load, you're fine.


----------



## ThaNoob

I lost one of my springs for the intel mounting kit so now I'm using the longer supplied springs. I've taken off the adjustbale knob that was on the intel 1155 mounting screws and placed the amd springs on them. I'm afraid they are too tight. Does ANYONE know were I can get a replacement spring for the Intel 1155 mounting....or a 1155 mounting kit. I am currently emailing frozencpu about this issue. Thank you


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaNoob;15057091*
> I lost one of my springs for the intel mounting kit so now I'm using the longer supplied springs. I've taken off the adjustbale knob that was on the intel 1155 mounting screws and placed the amd springs on them. I'm afraid they are too tight. Does ANYONE know were I can get a replacement spring for the Intel 1155 mounting....or a 1155 mounting kit. I am currently emailing frozencpu about this issue. Thank you


You'll have to hope frozencpu will give you one. If not you'll probably either have to buy a new kit or find a spring at a hardware store. (You could also cut down one of the larger springs, it's going to require power tools though)


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15057245*
> You'll have to hope frozencpu will give you one. If not you'll probably either have to buy a new kit or find a spring at a hardware store. (You could also cut down one of the larger springs, it's going to require power tools though)


Xspc might give him one


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337;15057251*
> Xspc might give him one


They will not. They tell you to contact whoever you purchased your kit from. I was in the same situation a few months ago, I still don't know where the spring is.


----------



## ThaNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15057323*
> They will not. They tell you to contact whoever you purchased your kit from. I was in the same situation a few months ago, I still don't know where the spring is.


What did you do? I contacted frozencpu already I really hope they are not cheap to send me a spring of course I would pay for shipping tho. I took out my kit to replace the tim and dropped one







so far was on the floor for about an hour or two with a flash light and around my desk no dice...Right now I'm using the intel mount screws with amd mounting springs but i took the adjustment knobs off and just placed 3 washers total not sure if its too tight or lose:doh:


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaNoob;15057821*
> What did you do? I contacted frozencpu already I really hope they are not cheap to send me a spring of course I would pay for shipping tho. I took out my kit to replace the tim and dropped one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so far was on the floor for about an hour or two with a flash light and around my desk no dice...Right now I'm using the intel mount screws with amd mounting springs but i took the adjustment knobs off and just placed 3 washers total not sure if its too tight or lose:doh:


The spring will turn up when you least expect it







.. Always seems to happen with little things that you drop and can't find.. Then one day you'll look at the ground only to realize your looking right at the spring


----------



## Dragon69

i love this kit, my 5ghz @ 1.48v, 24/7, is 23c+ idle and 78c+ max

a little upgrade








from 4gb to 8gb 2133mhz

























































Actally came from 6970's at first cause of the RED


----------



## Valodore

Updated tubing and fittings to my rig













































Still missing new window for the side panel (Getting a custom Star Wars window made) + adding Star Wars characters to it, to make it ready for Star Wars: The Old Republic


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valodore*


Updated tubing and fittings to my rig













































Still missing new window for the side panel (Getting a custom Star Wars window made) + adding Star Wars characters to it, to make it ready for Star Wars: The Old Republic










nice work! Is that white tubing with UV light?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaNoob;15057821*
> What did you do? I contacted frozencpu already I really hope they are not cheap to send me a spring of course I would pay for shipping tho. I took out my kit to replace the tim and dropped one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so far was on the floor for about an hour or two with a flash light and around my desk no dice...Right now I'm using the intel mount screws with amd mounting springs but i took the adjustment knobs off and just placed 3 washers total not sure if its too tight or lose:doh:


I contacted gary at sidewinder (who I bought my kit from), he shipped me a new spring for free. Got it pretty fast too.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15060921*
> I contacted gary at sidewinder (who I bought my kit from), he shipped me a new spring for free. Got it pretty fast too.


Another example of awesome customer service from Sidewinder.


----------



## Valodore

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vcrazy*


nice work! Is that white tubing with UV light?


Yeah, it's Masterkleer White UV Tubing


----------



## idaveop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Push/Pull might help with load temps a bit. You failed to list important temps though, such as ambient and load. Idle temps are irrelevant.


Sorry, you're right. I run ~50 during Prime95 full load, and the house is around 68F, or roughly 20C.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *idaveop*


Sorry, you're right. I run ~50 during Prime95 full load, and the house is around 68F, or roughly 20C.


50c is nice, any overclock?


----------



## idaveop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


50c is nice, any overclock?


It's fairly stock, I am thinking about pushing it farther. It's crossed my mind to order a rx360 to really deal the deal. I've had the kit a week and I'm already addicted


----------



## DEEBS808

So I had my kit for awhile now.Bought me some yate loon about a week or two ago.I had it in a push/pull or so I thought.Temps wasn't that bad but I thought I could help it out.Changed my tim a few time with no luck.I still wasn't that happy so I took it all apart and started from a empty case.I did't notice while taking apart my rad and fans.But when I was puting it back I saw I had my top fans with my bottom fans blowing up and my top fans blowing down














.What a noob.My first build and attempt at watercooling.So Ill take this as a total fail.But atleast I didn't have any major issues like a leak,wrong parts,etc.Thanks to the awesome people on here.


----------



## spitty13

I have no complaints about the rasa kits, but my pump went out today. This doesn't upset me except for the fact that it is 2 days away from BF3 beta.

Does anyone know the warranty process for getting another pump? I heard rasa is real easy to work with, but do I need to make a video before taking this rig apart and draining it?


----------



## DEEBS808

I had my pump go out on me also.Contacted xspc and they sent me a new one after they confirmed I bought it.Took a couple days from when I first contacted them.Would have been faster but it was the weekend and I had to find my camera.Good luck.
p.s.I didn't have to make a video just sent them a picture of the back of the pump with the pimp number and they sent out the new one.


----------



## Renbad

Hey guys i recently purchased this kit for my corsair obsidian 800d after installing the radiator to the top of the case and plugging everything in i then proceeded to fill the resevoir after it had been filled properly (liquid through all the pipes and the rad) i then switched it on to get it flowing.

This is where my problem lies though, theres seems to be a large ammount of air bubbles trapped in the radiator and the system is pretty much installed in my case. Is there anything anyone can suggest to remove these air bubbles? on top of that theres a air bubble at the top of the volute where the rotor blades sit.

I have tried draining the res and re filling it but there are still air bubbles in the res. Another thing i might try today is un mounting the rad from the top of the case and bring it to a lower point in the case preferebly below the rad to see if any air bubbles come out.

here are some pictures:



























if anyone could lend a helping hand with this that would be wonderful.

thank you

best wishes


----------



## The_ocho

tip the case over and the air will flow out. make sure your cap is installed


----------



## Renbad

The Ocho i have tried moving my case sideways with the cap installed as in the non clear side of the case flat on a bench and the res started to leak (from the cap of the res) somehow 
: / i got scared when that happened so i turned it off and sat it up right.

can i clarify with you when you say tip the case are you saying tip it from side to side or in a different direction?

cheers


----------



## The_ocho

Air is going to rise. so you will need to tip the case in what ever direction needed to get the air to flow to the res. since your rad has the ports at the back you need to make those the highest part of the rad to get air out of it then try tipping it forward a lil bit. just going to have to play with it. leave it on so the water flows and helps move the air out it takes time gently tapping on the rad or other components helps dislodge air that may be trapped. also it shouldn't leak at all the cap should seal on the res keeping all water inside.

If your scared of leaks you could remove all the computer components form the case just leaving the PSU and water loop so if it does spill there is less collateral damage


----------



## gumbie

Best way to get rid of the air if your rad is mounted up top is to flip your case onto the "roof" of the case.

My cap also leaks sometimes, i replaced the o-ring with a thicker one and it fixed it


----------



## Renbad

Thank you very much for the responses guys i will give what you suggested a go and see the results but those bubbles in the res are a real pain it almost seems like they are stuck to the sides and fully around the pump aswell.

i have been running the set up for a day plus now with teh cap off to remove air bubbles and its a very very slow process i can occasionally hear some air bubbles escape but i believe it should be moving a little faster?

I forgot to ask is there anyway to fully fill up the res? because it would seem that fill port side is more recessed into the res meaning that the liquid fills up that part of the res but the other side looks like there is still room?

thank you again ++!


----------



## The_ocho

you can only fill it up to the bottom of the fill port. you dont need it any higher than that. a lil air in there is fine as once its out of the fluid and on the top of the res it wont get sucked back into the pump unless water level gets below the pump intake.


----------



## jetboy623

Page #999!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## TechIsCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;15065669*
> Page #999!!!!!!!!!!!


But its only page 100 for me









I will be getting my RX360 kit Tuesday, It should have been here last Thursday but they well shipped it to the wrong location KS when I live in WA weird and then they shipped the new package with the same shipping speed ground... Tuesday will be a fun day already got the PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetboy623;15065669*
> Page #999!!!!!!!!!!!


I noticed that earlier. dats a lot of posts lol, cant wait for my kit to get here next week


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechIsCool;15065961*
> But its only page 100 for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be getting my RX360 kit Tuesday, It should have been here last Thursday but they well shipped it to the wrong location KS when I live in WA weird and then they shipped the new package with the same shipping speed ground... Tuesday will be a fun day already got the PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing


Got some good TIM? before you start


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renbad;15064923*
> Thank you very much for the responses guys i will give what you suggested a go and see the results but those bubbles in the res are a real pain it almost seems like they are stuck to the sides and fully around the pump aswell.
> 
> i have been running the set up for a day plus now with teh cap off to remove air bubbles and its a very very slow process i can occasionally hear some air bubbles escape but i believe it should be moving a little faster?
> 
> I forgot to ask is there anyway to fully fill up the res? because it would seem that fill port side is more recessed into the res meaning that the liquid fills up that part of the res but the other side looks like there is still room?
> 
> thank you again ++!


The bubbles in the res are perfectly normal, they'll eventually work their way out just takes a little time.


----------



## Renbad

Thanks mate im hoping that is the case i wonder how long exactly it will take the bubbles to dissipate. its already been a few days now ive been running the kit with the res open so if bubbles do move they will just exit.

They seem quiet content where they are









fingers crossed for more time


----------



## Kieran

I'm looking at getting the RS240 kit or the RS360 kit to cool my new 1055T. Do i need anything else other than the parts below:

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-Rasa-750-RS360-WaterCooling-Kit--RS-Series-Kit-pid-12931.html

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/De-ionised-Water-1-Litre---Ideal-for-watercooling-pid-2272.html

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-716-ID---58-OD-11-16mm-High-Flex-Tubing--Clear--UV-Blue-pid-6750.html x2?

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-PSC-14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-716-ID---58-OD-Tubing--Black-pid-11310.html x6


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renbad;15068020*
> Thanks mate im hoping that is the case i wonder how long exactly it will take the bubbles to dissipate. its already been a few days now ive been running the kit with the res open so if bubbles do move they will just exit.
> 
> They seem quiet content where they are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fingers crossed for more time


Yeah it can take a week or so I think, think I've still got a few in mine, its nowt to worry about really.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kieran;15071423*
> I'm looking at getting the RS240 kit or the RS360 kit to cool my new 1055T. Do i need anything else other than the parts below:
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-Rasa-750-RS360-WaterCooling-Kit--RS-Series-Kit-pid-12931.html
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/De-ionised-Water-1-Litre---Ideal-for-watercooling-pid-2272.html
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-716-ID---58-OD-11-16mm-High-Flex-Tubing--Clear--UV-Blue-pid-6750.html x2?
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-PSC-14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-716-ID---58-OD-Tubing--Black-pid-11310.html x6


Your pretty much covered but you'll need some biocide or silver kill coil. Also the car plan can be bought muchcheaper elsewhere like wickes. Think that's where I got mine, was like 99p for a litre!


----------



## TechIsCool

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


Got some good TIM? before you start


Already have the TIM just hope that I have enough for both GPU and CPU


----------



## Nitronium

I've got my RX360 kit coming from Performance-PCs and should be arriving tomorrow. I was a little slow in ordering all the parts to have it put together for the BF3 beta, but it's coming nevertheless. Wish me luck!


----------



## Renbad

hey guys

i was wondering if 30 degrees Celsius a good temp for a stock 960 running this kit? thats what I am sitting at right now. Usually it ranges from 30 - 35 idle. Its a pretty big difference compared to the h60 i used to run which kept me just below 40.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renbad;15078754*
> hey guys
> 
> i was wondering if 30 degrees Celsius a good temp for a stock 960 running this kit? thats what I am sitting at right now. Usually it ranges from 30 - 35 idle. Its a pretty big difference compared to the h60 i used to run which kept me just below 40.


Idle temps wont change much a few degrees tho load temps should be better.
what is your ambient temp


----------



## Renbad

well the local weather says 14 degrees for Perth im not sure about inside though..

I just realised the price difference in parts people buy from other countries compared to Australia.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_300&products_id=18059 (Australia)

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-PSC-14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-716-ID---58-OD-Tubing--Black-pid-11310.html (England)

bit rediculous in my opnion but meh..


----------



## The_ocho

if you dont have a thermometer Whats your thermostat set at for your Heater/AC. What kind of load temps are you getting ?


----------



## Renbad

well i ran oct for an hour once and hit close to about 58 degrees celcius maybe mid 50's running 3 fans at 1000 rpm


----------



## The_ocho

How do those relate to your H60?


----------



## Renbad

Alot better then my h60 at idle the h60 was running close to 40 degrees celsius and at load it went over I know there is a massive improvement compared to the h60. I did however think that that my cpu would be running somewhere in the 20's maybe that was wishful thinking as the i7's are pretty hot cpu's.


----------



## The_ocho

With water you cant go below ambient temp. 20c is close to 70F i know i keep my place at about 18C give or take but to get to 20c will take an ambient lower than that plus running your fans a lil faster than 1000RPM


----------



## Vandal4126

I have a question about idle temps. My room is about 20-22degrees with the A/C on and I somehow have 3 out of the six cores reporting temps below 20degrees in Realtemp and Coretemp. The three low temp cores are 14 17 18 the others are 20 20 25. Is this just an error on the temp sensor for the chip?

Also if I replace my RS240 rad with an RX240 with my current fan setup will I notice a massive difference in load temps?


----------



## The_ocho

Temp sensors are not always accurate. On my core2extreme I saw up to a 10C difference between the cores.

I believe i saw a review comparing the two rads somewhere i dont recall where tho. try searching for it


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_ocho;15079128*
> With water you cant go below ambient temp. 20c is close to 70F i know i keep my place at about 18C give or take but to get to 20c will take an ambient lower than that plus running your fans a lil faster than 1000RPM


Sure you can, you just need a chiller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;15079299*
> I have a question about idle temps. My room is about 20-22degrees with the A/C on and I somehow have 3 out of the six cores reporting temps below 20degrees in Realtemp and Coretemp. The three low temp cores are 14 17 18 the others are 20 20 25. Is this just an error on the temp sensor for the chip?
> 
> Also if I replace my RS240 rad with an RX240 with my current fan setup will I notice a massive difference in load temps?


What temp monitor are you using?

Depends on what is in your loop, if it's just a cpu, you probably won't notice much of a difference.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15079395*
> Sure you can, you just need a chiller.


Well yeah I was just saying for his current loop


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15079395*
> Sure you can, you just need a chiller.
> 
> What temp monitor are you using?
> 
> Depends on what is in your loop, if it's just a cpu, you probably won't notice much of a difference.


I did say I'm using RealtempGT 3.6 and Coretemp. It is just the CPU in the loop, I would put my GPU in but there is no waterblock being made for it. I'm running my 970 [email protected] I heard it isn't safe to take it over 1.45 for 24/7. My load temps in linx 20 pass is about 65 on the hottest core.


----------



## vcrazy

Hey guys,

I'm trying to bleed my system and whenever I tilt/shake to try to bleed the system, the plug would let some water out (a lot depending how I tilt). I was wondering if anyone knows which type of washer i need to get for the plug so it doesn't leak (or reduce the amount substantially).

Thanks


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;15079458*
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm trying to bleed my system and whenever I tilt/shake to try to bleed the system, the plug would let some water out (a lot depending how I tilt). I was wondering if anyone knows which type of washer i need to get for the plug so it doesn't leak (or reduce the amount substantially).
> 
> Thanks


If your filler cap is tightened properly on the res it shouldn't leak at all tbh, I have turned my case upside down while bleeding and it did not leak. I believe if you over tighten it may dislodge the rubber causing it to leak.


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;15079474*
> If your filler cap is tightened properly on the res it shouldn't leak at all tbh, I have turned my case upside down while bleeding and it did not leak. I believe if you over tighten it may dislodge the rubber causing it to leak.


Hmm maybe I didn't fully tighten. I'm afraid to overtighten on acrylic :O

I'll tighten it further and check again.

edit: that seemed to help







thanks! +1


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vandal4126;15079434*
> I did say I'm using RealtempGT 3.6 and Coretemp. It is just the CPU in the loop, I would put my GPU in but there is no waterblock being made for it. I'm running my 970 [email protected] I heard it isn't safe to take it over 1.45 for 24/7. My load temps in linx 20 pass is about 65 on the hottest core.


Sorry, I have no idea how I missed that. RealTemp should have an option to calibrate the temp, give that a try, and if that doesn't work then it's likely just a sensor error.


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;15079507*
> Hmm maybe I didn't fully tighten. I'm afraid to overtighten on acrylic :O
> 
> I'll tighten it further and check again.
> 
> edit: that seemed to help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks! +1


A thing I've noticed with my XSPC res is that you need to find the "sweet spot" when tightening the fill port plug


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gumbie*


A thing I've noticed with my XSPC res is that you need to find the "sweet spot" when tightening the fill port plug










Same here bro lol


----------



## Gainward

guys i'v just installed the kit in the case but when i was done i found that i hade a mistake with installing the CPU block, I put the water comming from the pump in the OUT and the water which are going to the pump in the in







does that reduce the performance ?


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


guys i'v just installed the kit in the case but when i was done i found that i hade a mistake with installing the CPU block, I put the water comming from the pump in the OUT and the water which are going to the pump in the in







does that reduce the performance ?


If you're thinking about leaving it the way it is, then I'd say it's probably not the best idea.

Spend the additional time to get it done right imo. Remove the tubing, and redo that part of the loop.

Good luck


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward;15085996*
> guys i'v just installed the kit in the case but when i was done i found that i hade a mistake with installing the CPU block, I put the water comming from the pump in the OUT and the water which are going to the pump in the in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does that reduce the performance ?


Yes it will reduce your performance but if you have water in the system an ez fix is just swap the tubes at the res/pump that way you dont spill water on the motherboard


----------



## Gainward

The problem is the tuping became so tight







but anyway i'll try to get it out from the brabs

The second thing is the clips I don't think that I can use them anymore if I remove them, am I wrong about that?


----------



## Worple

No they can be reused


----------



## spitty13

So when applying the backplate to the motherboard, the sticky adhesive is supposed to be applied directly to the back of the motherboard right?

Just like in step two

http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/rasa.pdf


----------



## Renbad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spitty13*


So when applying the backplate to the motherboard, the sticky adhesive is supposed to be applied directly to the back of the motherboard right?

Just like in step two

http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/rasa.pdf


Yes that is correct

I took a little extra time to clean the back surface of the motherboard so that the adhesive would make better contact. The sticky adhesive serves 2 purposes one of them is obviously to mount the back plate on but the second is to create a layer between the pcb of the motherboard and the back plate.


----------



## spitty13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Renbad*


Yes that is correct

I took a little extra time to clean the back surface of the motherboard so that the adhesive would make better contact. The sticky adhesive serves 2 purposes one of them is obviously to mount the back plate on but the second is to create a layer between the pcb of the motherboard and the back plate.


Ok so I didn't screw it up when i put it on there a few months back. The pump went out and i am trying to put on the stock cpu cooler on there until i get the replacement pump. I can not take off the backplate for the life of me. The only way I could get it off would be to use a screw driver and pry it off. I think they might have made the adhesive too strong. Any ideas on how to get it off? I am missing some major bf3 time here


----------



## vcrazy

I have the Sunbeamtech 6 channel fan controller, and would like 1 channel to control 3 fans at a time. Does anyone know what type of fan y-splitter I need if I wanted to do this?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spitty13;15095444*
> Ok so I didn't screw it up when i put it on there a few months back. The pump went out and i am trying to put on the stock cpu cooler on there until i get the replacement pump. I can not take off the backplate for the life of me. The only way I could get it off would be to use a screw driver and pry it off. I think they might have made the adhesive too strong. Any ideas on how to get it off? I am missing some major bf3 time here


It's very hard to get off, that's why most people don't use the adhesive. You can get started with a screw driver, then just slowly pull up. Just be careful not to mess up anything with the screw driver, or by pulling to fast.


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15096779*
> It's very hard to get off, that's why most people don't use the adhesive. You can get started with a screw driver, then just slowly pull up. Just be careful not to mess up anything with the screw driver, or by pulling to fast.


Oh that sucks I used the adhesive strips haha.Looks like it will be permanently bonded with the motherboard now.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;15096827*
> Oh that sucks I used the adhesive strips haha.Looks like it will be permanently bonded with the motherboard now.


It's not too bad, I was a bit worried I was going to mess up my motherboard when I took it off though. I guess it's so hard to get off because of the high pressure from mounting and the long length of time it stays on.


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vcrazy;15095914*
> I have the Sunbeamtech 6 channel fan controller, and would like 1 channel to control 3 fans at a time. Does anyone know what type of fan y-splitter I need if I wanted to do this?


HERE you go. If that is not your color than CHECK these


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spitty13;15095444*
> Ok so I didn't screw it up when i put it on there a few months back. The pump went out and i am trying to put on the stock cpu cooler on there until i get the replacement pump. I can not take off the backplate for the life of me. The only way I could get it off would be to use a screw driver and pry it off. I think they might have made the adhesive too strong. Any ideas on how to get it off? I am missing some major bf3 time here


The same thing happened with my H50, so I didn't use it this time with the rasa kit, just held it while I started the screws. Just be real careful and take it off slowly with a small flat head.


----------



## iced00d

Good morning. I'm in the process of pricing out a WC option for my Antec Lanboy Air case. Currently I'm running a AMD Phenom II X6 1090T (not O/C'd) on a Asus M4A89GTD PRO/USB3. For cooling I have the standard Lanboy 120mm Fans and a CORSAIR H60 on the CPU. I'm just not too happy with the temps on the CPU with the H60, so I'm looking to go full WC.

After doing some research I've heard that a lot of folks are using this product but what concerns me is some of the reviews I've seen on Frozen PC so far about the pump giving out. So far the past 4 reviews on the 240 have mentioned that. So I wanted to get some feedback from you folks on how your products are doing. Also if someone has a M4A89GTD Pro, can you explain to me what you did to mount the water block? I've seen in the FAQ about modding the backplane which I'm not a big fan on doing. I like to keep things stock incase I need to swap out things.

Oh one last thing, is it worth the $$ to WC a EVGA Nvidia GTX 560 TI? I know they have some great fans on them and why spend the $$ if I don't have to. Thanks in advance....


----------



## willistech

Same deal here I didn't see anything in the FAQ about changing pumps, but I did find on FrozenCPU they sell an upgrade for $160?????


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iced00d;15099320*
> Good morning. I'm in the process of pricing out a WC option for my Antec Lanboy Air case. Currently I'm running a AMD Phenom II X6 1090T (not O/C'd) on a Asus M4A89GTD PRO/USB3. For cooling I have the standard Lanboy 120mm Fans and a CORSAIR H60 on the CPU. I'm just not too happy with the temps on the CPU with the H60, so I'm looking to go full WC.
> 
> After doing some research I've heard that a lot of folks are using this product but what concerns me is some of the reviews I've seen on Frozen PC so far about the pump giving out. So far the past 4 reviews on the 240 have mentioned that. So I wanted to get some feedback from you folks on how your products are doing. Also if someone has a M4A89GTD Pro, can you explain to me what you did to mount the water block? I've seen in the FAQ about modding the backplane which I'm not a big fan on doing. I like to keep things stock incase I need to swap out things.
> 
> Oh one last thing, is it worth the $$ to WC a EVGA Nvidia GTX 560 TI? I know they have some great fans on them and why spend the $$ if I don't have to. Thanks in advance....


Yes I have seen some not many but people here that have there pumps go out in there kits but they all got there pumps RMA though XSPC with little or no problem.
As for the backplate there is none in the kit for AMD, most people just use the bolts that come with the kit or use the back plate from your CORSAIR H60 it will work just fine if you want to use it.
The video card can be watercooled but if your not gone to OC it and are not having problems with the stock cooler I would let it be.

P.S. nice case you have there


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willistech*


Same deal here I didn't see anything in the FAQ about changing pumps, but I did find on FrozenCPU they sell an upgrade for $160?????


You cant change the pump there sealed in the reservior. But if you ever had or wanted to replace it. You can use These they work as good or better than what you get with the kit


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


HERE you go. If that is not your color than CHECK these










haha thanks Worple. I'm going for a Red/Black/White theme for my case. Might pick up black or red.


----------



## Worple

No problem sir have a good one


----------



## willistech

Right if you read my post and look at the price of that unit its exactly what i was talking about. I'm going with a different option and getting the Swiftech kit instead.


----------



## Worple

Nothing wrong with Swifttech they make good stuff. Post us a picture when your up and running


----------



## iced00d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willistech*


Right if you read my post and look at the price of that unit its exactly what i was talking about. I'm going with a different option and getting the Swiftech kit instead.


Hmm I didn't notice a link your refering to. Also on FPC I don't see an upgrade option neither. Can you link it?

@Worple - Thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll be a new member of the club here soon







... Also do you have a recommendation for tubing? I heard a lot of ppl complaining about the stiffness of the tubing that is supplied....


----------



## Worple

Here you go sir


----------



## iced00d

Sir? Now i REALLY feel old







... Thanks again ....


----------



## Worple

LOL sorry 20 yrs army


----------



## iced00d

Understandable - 13yrs Navy here .....

Now where's Will with that link .........


----------



## Worple

If he was talking about the other pump on the rasa kit Here it is

I am running two of those right now


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


If he was talking about the other pump on the rasa kit Here it is

I am running two of those right now


As another suggestion you can go with this, it has a good pump in it, and it's 100$ less. Alternatively you could just buy a pump and a pump-less dual bay res.


----------



## willistech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


As another suggestion you can go with this, it has a good pump in it, and it's 100$ less. Alternatively you could just buy a pump and a pump-less dual bay res.


I thought that too but read the fine print. Note: Fittings and Pump are NOT included and required for use!


----------



## iced00d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


If he was talking about the other pump on the rasa kit Here it is

I am running two of those right now











WOW! now that's a beast! Nice rig...


----------



## Worple

Thanks


----------



## willistech

What the hell I'm just going to get the RX240 kit. Worry about the pump more after I use it lol. The kit is just priced too well to pass up. Reminds me of Monty Python. 
"Bring out your dead." 
"but I'm not dead yet!"


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willistech*


I thought that too but read the fine print. Note: Fittings and Pump are NOT included and required for use!


Ahh you're right, wow. I was wondering why it was so cheap tbh.


----------



## kdon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willistech*


What the hell I'm just going to get the RX240 kit. Worry about the pump more after I use it lol. The kit is just priced too well to pass up. Reminds me of Monty Python. 
"Bring out your dead." 
"but I'm not dead yet!"


just make sure to replace your tubing







the stock tubing tends to yellow and turn nasty due to plasticizers!

oh and if you order from frozencpu, they include a silver coil for free







have fun!


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willistech*


What the hell I'm just going to get the RX240 kit. Worry about the pump more after I use it lol. The kit is just priced too well to pass up. Reminds me of Monty Python. 
"Bring out your dead." 
"but I'm not dead yet!"


LMAO I love Monty Python. Yea the rasa kits are hard to to pass on. I have a HAF X case with a RS360 also that my son has at school right now, it never gave me any problems but its getting time that he needs to bring it home so we can drain it out and clean it


----------



## willistech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kdon*


just make sure to replace your tubing







the stock tubing tends to yellow and turn nasty due to plasticizers!

oh and if you order from frozencpu, they include a silver coil for free







have fun!


Yeah man I've been reading bad things about dye too. Does anyone know if the coupon code that is posted for them is still good for the 5%?


----------



## Worple

pcapex should still work


----------



## willistech

I don't see the RX240 kit on FrozenCPU only the RS240


----------



## Worple

Try These guys I know they have it and there a good comp.


----------



## jedi304

Hey guys, newbie here on watercooling, I'm planning to grab an RS240 Kit plus an additional XSPC GPU plate. My question is, will the rad be strong enough to cool my sig rig?


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jedi304*


Hey guys, newbie here on watercooling, I'm planning to grab an RS240 Kit plus an additional XSPC GPU plate. My question is, will the rad be strong enough to cool my sig rig?


CPU only? not a problem! CPU+GPU? Would be ok though I would opt for RS360 if you plan on OCing your GPU as well


----------



## iced00d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willistech*


I don't see the RX240 kit on FrozenCPU only the RS240










Ok so whats the difference between the RX and RS kits?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iced00d*


Ok so whats the difference between the RX and RS kits?


go to the first page of this thread look under FAQ and the knowledge of the universe will be yours


----------



## jedi304

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vcrazy*


CPU only? not a problem! CPU+GPU? Would be ok though I would opt for RS360 if you plan on OCing your GPU as well


No plans on OCing my GPU, just my CPU. Thanks for the reply by the way. +1 to you.


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iced00d*


Ok so whats the difference between the RX and RS kits?


RX is a thicker rad and has more space between the fins than the RS. RX works wonders with a low RPM fan to keep noise down while keeping temps down as well


----------



## Michalius

Got everything mounted, most of the tubes connected, then a friend asked me what I flushed the Rad with. I didn't.

So, is flushing the Rad absolutely necessary? Will require me to basically cut off all the tubing I've done. Thanks!


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Michalius*


Got everything mounted, most of the tubes connected, then a friend asked me what I flushed the Rad with. I didn't.

So, is flushing the Rad absolutely necessary? Will require me to basically cut off all the tubing I've done. Thanks!


I would say it's necessary to clear any gunk/flux that may be left in your rad. It could pose a danger to your block and moreover your pump.


----------



## Michalius

Yeah.... damnit.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Got a couple of simple questions:

1. Low speed fans for the RX series, what speed or cfm could I get away with? Only doing the cpu for now, so what I have is a major overkill I know, but down the track I do intend to include the GPU as well.

2. What is the best way to stop the pump being so noisy? It seems to have this rather annoying raggle (rattle+gargle) sound happening?


----------



## Worple

Fans GentleTyphoon AP-15s or yate loons mediums
The noise could be air in the system that should work its self out you can help this by rocking the case
I have also seen people adding a drop of dish detergent to act as a lub and they say this works also
also

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hot120*


I second using dish detergent and just being patient. My pump was silent, then loud, then silent, then loud again. It was so loud one time I could hear it across the house late at night with nothing else moving around. Now, it is completely silent. Use some blue Dawn detergent, and no more than two drops. Shake the case around a bit, and let it sit for a while. Eventually, the pump noise should go away.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


Fans GentleTyphoon AP-15s or yate loons mediums
The noise could be air in the system that should work its self out you can help this by rocking the case


Can't find the Gentle Typhoon's in Australia and the Yate's are rated at 33dba, that seems rather loud. Here are two suppliers I can use

http://www.pccasegear.com/

and

http://www.mwave.com.au


----------



## Worple

Here they are LINK
Thats at mwave


----------



## Worple

I have 16 of those fans in my case and when I turn them down 50% with my fan controllers I cant hear a thing but they move some air


----------



## ginger_nuts

Thank you a million Worple, I must go and earn money now at the place that gets in between OCing and gaming, it is called "Work". But then I can order me new fans. With the money I get from work. Kind of a catch 22 I guess


----------



## Worple

Have a good one


----------



## Nitronium

OK, so I just got my RASA RX360 kit installed (pics incoming soon), but I have a few questions.

Anyone else have trouble using two 1/2"x3/4" bitspower compression fittings on the RASA block? Looks like I'm going to have to get a 45deg rotary fitting or two.

Also how are you guys hooking up your fans? I found out at 3 o'clock last night that I had no molex to fan splitters, so I hooked two to my mobo's cpu and cpu-alt headers and one to a case fan header, and my other two case fans onto the mobo as well (800D, and one fan connector was severed halfway through). Is a lampy recommended?

Looks like another purchase from Performance-PCs...may as well add in the AP-15s I want while I'm throwing money at my problems.

Thanks for the input.


----------



## Worple

Yes compression fittings on the block are very close together 
and I am using a lamptron touch for my AP-15s


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nitronium*


OK, so I just got my RASA RX360 kit installed (pics incoming soon), but I have a few questions.

Anyone else have trouble using two 1/2"x3/4" bitspower compression fittings on the RASA block? Looks like I'm going to have to get a 45deg rotary fitting or two.

Also how are you guys hooking up your fans? I found out at 3 o'clock last night that I had no molex to fan splitters, so I hooked two to my mobo's cpu and cpu-alt headers and one to a case fan header, and my other two case fans onto the mobo as well (800D, and one fan connector was severed halfway through). Is a lampy recommended?

Looks like another purchase from Performance-PCs...may as well add in the AP-15s I want while I'm throwing money at my problems.

Thanks for the input.


I'm using this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13...c251s635#blank to connect to my Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 fan controller...you can use it to clean up a lot of wiring


----------



## Nitronium

Another question. Right now I've got the fans in a push configuration exhausting air through the top. My reasoning is that since I'm not water cooling the GPU yet, I don't want all that hot air from the CPU inside the case. I hear that you get better temps pulling the cool air into the case, but CPU temp is not my primary concern. I feel that the ambient case temperature with the rad in exhaust would have less of an impact on CPU temp than having the rad as intake will have on GPU temp, especially if I want to OC the GPU on the stock cooler.

I realize that this is a much-disputed topic, but I'm curious if anyone has opinions on their own choices and experiences.


----------



## Worple

Will I guess your right I know the case in your sig the Corsair 800d has bad ventilation so I am sure your 570 would like all the help it can get


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitronium;15116088*
> Another question. Right now I've got the fans in a push configuration exhausting air through the top. My reasoning is that since I'm not water cooling the GPU yet, I don't want all that hot air from the CPU inside the case. I hear that you get better temps pulling the cool air into the case, but CPU temp is not my primary concern. I feel that the ambient case temperature with the rad in exhaust would have less of an impact on CPU temp than having the rad as intake will have on GPU temp, especially if I want to OC the GPU on the stock cooler.
> 
> I realize that this is a much-disputed topic, but I'm curious if anyone has opinions on their own choices and experiences.


Nitronium, I recently upgraded my RS360 to an RX360 and had to put my fans on top of the rad because my HAF X just doesn't have enough room to fit them underneath. I've been monitoring my temps for about a week now and the difference in temperatures is about a degree. So taking the fans from a push configuration under the radiator and setting them on top in a pull configuration really didn't make my temperatures any worse. My ambient temperatures have remained pretty stable as well. I hope this helps.


----------



## Nitronium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15116470*
> Will I guess your right I know the case in your sig the Corsair 800d has bad ventilation so I am sure your 570 would like all the help it can get


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15116491*
> Nitronium, I recently upgraded my RS360 to an RX360 and had to put my fans on top of the rad because my HAF X just doesn't have enough room to fit them underneath. I've been monitoring my temps for about a week now and the difference in temperatures is about a degree. So taking the fans from a push configuration under the radiator and setting them on top in a pull configuration really didn't make my temperatures any worse. My ambient temperatures have remained pretty stable as well. I hope this helps.


Thanks guys, once my RAM is delivered and I get it all configured, I'll be sure to do a little testing with configurations and post results


----------



## Gainward

After a hard work I'v finally fixed up the issue

It was really hard to take off the tubing and then keeping the water out of the case but anyway i fixed it.

_Leak testing the block before re-install it_




























The temperature "Load":


----------



## Worple

WOW fine job and nice looking rig


----------



## The_ocho

Looks like ill be adding a 5850 to my rs360 loop hopefully. Have to wait and see for sure


----------



## Worple

Kool deal Chief


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15118430*
> Kool deal Chief


Oh man reminds me of work haha


----------



## Worple

I was a Chief warrant officer in the army I know the feeling lol


----------



## vcrazy

finally got some decent pics. Some before I go to bed...spent waay too long and still got some cable management to do, and some kinks to iron out.

Thanks to OCN who made this possible


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vcrazy*


finally got some decent pics. Some before I go to bed...spent waay too long and still got some cable management to do, and some kinks to iron out.

Thanks to OCN who made this possible








*snip*


Love the white tubing and leds. I'm a fan of them myself.


----------



## gumbie

Here's how mine looks now!

RX360 up top, and an RX240 On the bottom









Sorry for the bad quality photos, can't seem to find my camera anywhere..


----------



## Nynn

^ Cute loop


----------



## Worple

Nice job guys


----------



## Ias13

Hey all, i need some help finding a case to house the RS360 internally...

I need a case that has/can:
- Fit the RS360 internally without modding (preferably)
- Is relatively Stylish (i dont like the HAF looks)
- Can accomodate at least 4 hdds
- Has relatively good Air flow
- Good Cable management prospects
- 8 expansion slots

As far as I know cases that can fulfill my requirements are:
- Corsair 800d/700d (doesnt have that good of an airflow?)
- XSPC Tower Case
- Lian Li Cases
- Corsair 600t (Can it fit the RS360?)
- HAF 932 / HAF X (i dont like the looks)
- NZXT Phantom (has 7 expansion slots but can it fit the RS360?)

Am I missing any other possible cases?


----------



## Worple

Danger Den
The best to me is Case Labs
Some of the Silver Stone cases are nice and can be watercooled
The 600t can hold a rs360 but needs to be modded to do so


----------



## gumbie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ias13*


Hey all, i need some help finding a case to house the RS360 internally...

I need a case that has/can:
- Fit the RS360 internally without modding (preferably)
- Is relatively Stylish (i dont like the HAF looks)
- Can accomodate at least 4 hdds
- Has relatively good Air flow
- Good Cable management prospects
- 8 expansion slots

As far as I know cases that can fulfill my requirements are:
- Corsair 800d/700d (doesnt have that good of an airflow?)
- XSPC Tower Case
- Lian Li Cases
- Corsair 600t (Can it fit the RS360?)
- HAF 932 / HAF X (i dont like the looks)

Am I missing any other possible cases?


Xigmatek Elysium


----------



## vcrazy

@Gumbie and MurDoctrine: VERY nice! Love the work


----------



## july1300

Hey guys I have a question I always get different answers to. I have 3to gtx 570 sli and i7 970 I want to cool. My temps on cpu are fine but gpus not so good lol and can't oc them because of it. Im trying to decide what xspc unit to buy and of I could get away with a single 480 rad or go with the 360pisas version with a sec 360 rad or 240I or if I'd get away with just the 480man also I have the 800d and don't really want to mod case to put second rad at bottom so would hang off back thank for any help. Also I used my phone to post this if there is any miss spelling hehehe


----------



## WeirdHarold

I will be ordering one of the Rasa cooling kits soon and am currently putting my parts lists together. I would like to add a drain line into the loop via a T line and plug to make maintenance easier in the future. My question is where would be the best place to add the T line into the loop? The kit will be installed into the top of a Corsair 800D case and my loop will be as follows: Pump/Res to Radiator, from Radiator to CPU block, from CPU block to Res. I was thinking of adding the T line at the point right before the line/loop goes back into the Res. See rather crude diagram for my example of what I'm thinking of:


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15126307*
> I will be ordering one of the Rasa cooling kits soon and am currently putting my parts lists together. I would like to add a drain line into the loop via a T line and plug to make maintenance easier in the future. My question is where would be the best place to add the T line into the loop? The kit will be installed into the top of a Corsair 800D case and my loop will be as follows: Pump/Res to Radiator, from Radiator to CPU block, from CPU block to Res. I was thinking of adding the T line at the point right before the line/loop goes back into the Res. See rather crude diagram for my example of what I'm thinking of:


That would work just fine


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *july1300;15126209*
> Hey guys I have a question I always get different answers to. I have 3to gtx 570 sli and i7 970 I want to cool. My temps on cpu are fine but gpus not so good lol and can't oc them because of it. Im trying to decide what xspc unit to buy and of I could get away with a single 480 rad or go with the 360pisas version with a sec 360 rad or 240I or if I'd get away with just the 480man also I have the 800d and don't really want to mod case to put second rad at bottom so would hang off back thank for any help. Also I used my phone to post this if there is any miss spelling hehehe


I know you said you dont want to mod but this guy could answer you the best


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15126361*
> That would work just fine


Thanks for the quick response !


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15126307*
> I will be ordering one of the Rasa cooling kits soon and am currently putting my parts lists together. I would like to add a drain line into the loop via a T line and plug to make maintenance easier in the future. My question is where would be the best place to add the T line into the loop? The kit will be installed into the top of a Corsair 800D case and my loop will be as follows: Pump/Res to Radiator, from Radiator to CPU block, from CPU block to Res. I was thinking of adding the T line at the point right before the line/loop goes back into the Res. See rather crude diagram for my example of what I'm thinking of:


Might as well just route the tubing to the left from the start, you'll be temped to rebuild your loop once you realize how odd looking placing all the tubing on the right is. But if you don't care for looks, then its 100% fine.


----------



## WeirdHarold

next Question do they make a quick disconnect fitting that seals itself when disconnected? Cause I was thinking if I could use something like that on the drain side of the T line then I could just plug in a drain line when I wanted to drain the system but wouldn't need to leave the line just sitting there all the time?


----------



## Worple

Yes sir they do LINK to some


----------



## vcrazy

Plan on getting them QDC myself one day


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15126619*
> Yes sir they do LINK to some


Yeah found them too, but again thanks for the awesomely quick response !


----------



## Worple

Glad to help


----------



## vcrazy

worple,

you must refresh this page for new updates 'cause you reply to everyone with the quickness!







good stuff


----------



## Worple

lol I am a troll thats what one guy called me anyway and my wife said I act like one sometimes


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15126840*
> lol I am a troll thats what one guy called me anyway and my wife said I act like one sometimes


haha at least you're a helpful troll


----------



## Novakanedj

I'm thinking of buying an RS240 kit just for the CPU for now but I'm thinking of adding dual Kepler cards in the future. Would the pump handle an extra 120 rad hanging out the back and 2 GPU waterblocks?


----------



## Worple

Yes it would


----------



## The_ocho

Pay for the 5850 with EK FC block, C/W








Pick up some distilled water, C/W
Pick up the rs360 kit form the Post office... TBD

I hate that when i get stuff shipped to me on base they get delivered to the Post office and Im not allowed to pick them up until the Post office prints out a little slip saying i have a package and puts it in my mail box. I especially hate it when it takes them more than a day to do it. I get my email form the shipping company saying delivered but i cant have it.

Its like Torture!!









Good news tho, checked my email and the fans i ordered 3 weeks ago in preparation for this kit finally showed up! yay


----------



## Skyboss

Quick question guys, do all the rads have XSPC stamped on them, because my rad from the RS240 kit doesn't? Did I get a bump/fake rad??


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyboss;15128179*
> Quick question guys, do all the rads have XSPC stamped on them, because my rad from the RS240 kit doesn't? Did I get a bump/fake rad??


it's not a "stamp" per se, more like engraved on the side of the rad. My RX360 has it, but not sure 'bout the RS240. HOwever I would assume they would do the same with the 240

edit: where did you buy it from?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyboss;15128179*
> Quick question guys, do all the rads have XSPC stamped on them, because my rad from the RS240 kit doesn't? Did I get a bump/fake rad??


I think that is only the RX models. My rs240 does not have it.


----------



## r3pLaY

Hi i just bought the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit and it is currently just cooling my CPU, i want to water cool my (2) GTX 560 ti's but was wondering if the pump is strong enough? also would i have to add another rad? I'm currently running push/pull set up, and if i do what size and could the pump handle that too? thax


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r3pLaY;15129490*
> Hi i just bought the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit and it is currently just cooling my CPU, i want to water cool my (2) GTX 560 ti's but was wondering if the pump is strong enough? also would i have to add another rad? I'm currently running push/pull set up, and if i do what size and could the pump handle that too? thax


The pump is more than strong enough to run that and yes...I would add at least an RX120 rad or swap out the RS 360 for an RX 360.

The pump would have no issue going through 2 RX360 rads, a cpu and 2 full water block 6990 graphics cards. So go ahead and add as you wish without any worries.


----------



## Skyboss

delete


----------



## Skyboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15129166*
> I think that is only the RX models. My rs240 does not have it.


Ah,I hope that's the case. My 240 doesn't either as I stated. So far, I set up my rig and am going to power it on now! Hope it works. I did about 5 hrs of water leak testing and none so far (knock on wood)....

Here we go!

Update: Success!!! It's idle temps are around 33C about 2 degrees lower than stock cpu cooler and load with 20 passes of linx is about 48C so far. Previously it was 63C! I wanted to try this out on my media server rig in cosmos 1000 case first and then I might apply it to my X Beast system in my sig.

I'll upload pics soon!


----------



## iced00d

So after looking around at some SLI setups, I noticed that some of them have tubing/fittings in-between the cards. Almost like it's making one big loop between the cards. Is this efficient or should I go with separate paths to the cards. I have the EVGA GTX 560 TI SC and was going to use the Danger Dan full face water block. Tks


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skyboss*


Ah,I hope that's the case. My 240 doesn't either as I stated. So far, I set up my rig and am going to power it on now! Hope it works. I did about 5 hrs of water leak testing and none so far (knock on wood)....

Here we go!


Cool, lets see some pics when its all running.


----------



## The_ocho

Look what i got from FrozenCPU today... Lunchables Vanilla Sandwich Cookies!!! Just what i wanted lol. seriously tho i guess reusing boxes saves them enough money










Build pics in a few hours!


----------



## iced00d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_ocho;15130304*
> Look what i got from FrozenCPU today... Lunchables Vanilla Sandwich Cookies!!! Just what i wanted lol. seriously tho i guess reusing boxes saves them enough money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build pics in a few hours!


Too bad your setup was only good through Aug 0411 !!


----------



## BramSLI1

Build pics of vanilla sandwich cookies? I don't get it. I do have a question though to anyone that could answer this for me. I'm considering adding a chipset water block to my loop. My question is that the block I'm looking at really only water cools the MOSFETS and the North Bridge of my board. They just give you an aluminum heat sink for the South Bridge. Does even sound like it would be worth the cost and the effort?


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_ocho*


Look what i got from FrozenCPU today... Lunchables Vanilla Sandwich Cookies!!! Just what i wanted lol. seriously tho i guess reusing boxes saves them enough money










Build pics in a few hours!


oh sweet i got the same box when I ordered from them


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iced00d*


So after looking around at some SLI setups, I noticed that some of them have tubing/fittings in-between the cards. Almost like it's making one big loop between the cards. Is this efficient or should I go with separate paths to the cards. I have the EVGA GTX 560 TI SC and was going to use the Danger Dan full face water block. Tks


Get a "parallel" water block bridge to get the best SLI cooling. This means that water flows through both cards from the source at the same time (i.e. splits flow). A serial block would mean that water goes through one card first then flows into the next one (i.e. second card would be hotter than the first).

Happy building.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skyboss*


Quick question guys, do all the rads have XSPC stamped on them, because my rad from the RS240 kit doesn't? Did I get a bump/fake rad??


only the RX Rads have something on them as they are thicker the RS versions do not.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iced00d;15130404*
> Too bad your setup was only good through Aug 0411 !!


ROFL me arss off


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_ocho*


Look what i got from FrozenCPU today... Lunchables Vanilla Sandwich Cookies!!! Just what i wanted lol. seriously tho i guess reusing boxes saves them enough money










Build pics in a few hours!


Mine arrived in a box of Lipton ice tea:










I guess mark just treats his employees nice


----------



## theturbofd

hey guys wheres the cheapest place to get the RX360 kit?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theturbofd*


hey guys wheres the cheapest place to get the RX360 kit?


Jab-tech or sidewinder computers probably.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iced00d*


Too bad your setup was only good through Aug 0411 !!










 key word being through. That means its good up to and past aug4....









Well its installed now and what a difference it makes going form 55C to 35C full load at stock clocks and 39C at 4.2Ghz. Dont mind all the extra tubing coming out of the CPU going to the RES. Thats there so when my videocard shows up next week I can just cut the tube and stick it on the barbs.


----------



## iced00d

Nice looking rig man. My stuff comes in next week. Just trying to decide to go WC on the vid cards or wait.


----------



## chinesethunda

I have a few questions:

1. I want to get the rs360, where is the cheapest place to get that?
2. I heard the barbs that come with the kit are kinda meh, so where would I find better barbs?
3. Where can I find colored tubing to match said barbs?
4. what kind of water should I use? distilled or deionized?

and im guessing a killcoil goes inside the tubing? but where does it go? anywhere or near the pump or?

thanks


----------



## Skyboss

Ok, some pics of my RASA RS240 kit in the Cosmos 1000 case.

This was my first WC project and did a ton of reading online to figure out the best setup for my cpu cooling project. I wanted to test this out first on my media server rig and then may incorporate the kit into my main rig in my HAF X.

It was fun and stressful at times and made me curse my Cosmos rig which is most at home with an external rad as opposed to an internal one.

I still want to get some decent clamps around the barbs to make sure no leaks but so far it's holding up!!

Leak testing:



Finished results:



More finished:



Up top:



Temps! (with a i3 2100 cpu so not exactly a scorcher!) LOL. But it still knocked off about 15-16C degrees from load with linx!



I have more tidying up to do and contemplating on getting another case and selling this one. I may get another HAF 912 and put the the rad on top. Might be easier to work with. I have to keep the door open on the Cosmos so I can see if the water is leaking, since no window mod on this case.

Well, this was my first adventure into watercooling and now I'm of course looking to see what else I can get to dress up my kit!

Any comments and criticisms are welcome. Wire management in a stock Cosmos is a pain so I may get creative with a dremel.


----------



## Skyboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15138364*
> I have a few questions:
> 
> 1. I want to get the rs360, where is the cheapest place to get that?
> 2. I heard the barbs that come with the kit are kinda meh, so where would I find better barbs?
> 3. Where can I find colored tubing to match said barbs?
> 4. what kind of water should I use? distilled or deionized?
> 
> and im guessing a killcoil goes inside the tubing? but where does it go? anywhere or near the pump or?
> 
> thanks


Depending on where you live for questions 1-3 you can pick up the kit at frozencpu.com or at least the tubing and barbs. I ordered my RS240 from them and I got a killcoil free. I put the killcoil in my RES. I hope that was correct.

I just used distilled and dropped the killcoil in RES. I'll see how that goes in a few weeks and hopefully shouldn't see any growth in system.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


I have a few questions:

1. I want to get the rs360, where is the cheapest place to get that?
2. I heard the barbs that come with the kit are kinda meh, so where would I find better barbs?
3. Where can I find colored tubing to match said barbs?
4. what kind of water should I use? distilled or deionized?

and im guessing a killcoil goes inside the tubing? but where does it go? anywhere or near the pump or?

thanks


1. Just check the sites, frozencpu, jabtech, sidewinder, performance pcs, etc

2. The barbs are perfectly fine its the tubing that stinks. The color of the barbs is like black chrome. Honestly with barbs you only see like 1 or 2mm of it so matching doesn't really matter. Just go with the color tubing you like. I would get primochill like I recomended you earlier where ever that was.

3. Amazon has it as do all the sites I listed above.

4. Distilled water with a kill coil in the res.


----------



## chinesethunda

okay, thanks for the info
how much better will the rs360 cooler the cpu than the rs240? i want to get a 360 rad but i would have to mod my case a little


----------



## WeirdHarold

Okay everyone I just got done planning out my Water cooling build and would like to know what you all think? I will start with the Rasa 750 rs360 kit but I will be using Primochill blue tubing instead of the stuff that comes with the kit. I have also opted to replace the stock barbs with compression fittings and for the connection for the return line to the res I'll use a quick connect/disconnect to make it easier to drain the system for maintenance. Below are links to the parts I'm planning to use:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit-_HOT.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12793/ex-tub-826/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_38_ID_58_OD_with_18_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Blue_PFLEXP10-58-B.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10910/koo-220/Koolance_QDC_High_Flow_No-Spill_Shutoff_Nozzle_Female_Threaded_VL3N-FG.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9507/koo-188/Koolance_QDC_High_Flow_No-Spill_Shutoff_Nozzle_Male_Compression_10mm_38_x_16mm_58_VL3N-M10-16S.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11108/ex-tub-701/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_38_ID_x_58_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_BP-MBRCPF-CC3.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11888/ex-tub-738/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Dual_Rotary_45-Degree_Compression_Fitting_CC3_For_ID_38_OD_58_Tube_BP-MB45R2CPF-CC3.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10752/ex-tub-676/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_38_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MB90R2LCPF-CC3.html


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Anyone know where I can get an AMD mount spring? I'm buying a kit, but he lost one of them.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*


Anyone know where I can get an AMD mount spring? I'm buying a kit, but he lost one of them.


I don't have any idea where you could get a replacement for the exact spring, but you might be able to find something close at a hardware store. On another note if you got all the Intel mounting stuff still you could try this, plus it gives you more options in the future for upgrading your waterblock:

http://www.enzotechnology.com/types_am2.htm

They used to have them at Newegg.com but it's shows as deactivated but if you can find one they will adapt an AMD to 775 Intel mounting. Just a thought I was going to grab one from newegg now I'll have to see if I can find them else where will repost if I do.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*


Anyone know where I can get an AMD mount spring? I'm buying a kit, but he lost one of them.


Contact whoever you purchased your kit from, they might be willing to part with a spring.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


I don't have any idea where you could get a replacement for the exact spring, but you might be able to find something close at a hardware store. On another note if you got all the Intel mounting stuff still you could try this, plus it gives you more options in the future for upgrading your waterblock:

http://www.enzotechnology.com/types_am2.htm

They used to have them at Newegg.com but it's shows as deactivated but if you can find one they will adapt an AMD to 775 Intel mounting. Just a thought I was going to grab one from newegg now I'll have to see if I can find them else where will repost if I do.


Yea, thats actually a good idea. If you can find where they still sell those brackets let me know.

EDIT: Not sure if this is the one your looking for. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708046

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


Contact whoever you purchased your kit from, they might be willing to part with a spring.


I havn't purchased it yet. He has everything, but 1 spring & it sucks because its the one I need for my socket.

+rep


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*


Yea, thats actually a good idea. If you can find where they still sell those brackets let me know.

I havn't purchased it yet. He has everything, but 1 spring & it sucks because its the one I need for my socket.

+rep










Ok Newegg still has this one only difference it the screws are shorter and I ordered it before it goes disc too LoL and it has free shipping at the moment total was $5.99. I just figured I try to find a way to use the Intel mounting Hardware or figure something out to use the Intel retention bracket at least.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tech-_-3570804


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*


Yea, thats actually a good idea. If you can find where they still sell those brackets let me know.

EDIT: Not sure if this is the one your looking for. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708046

I havn't purchased it yet. He has everything, but 1 spring & it sucks because its the one I need for my socket.

+rep










If you're willing to pay for shipping I have a spring I'm willing to part with. I didn't think about it until now, but my kit came with the amd mount and the springs. I obviously don't need it since I have an intel system.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


If you're willing to pay for shipping I have a spring I'm willing to part with. I didn't think about it until now, but my kit came with the amd mount and the springs. I obviously don't need it since I have an intel system.


Thats something I could do


----------



## chinesethunda

what other fans can i use besides the gt that i can mount horizontally that is cheap?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


what other fans can i use besides the gt that i can mount horizontally that is cheap?


Yate Loons


----------



## chinesethunda

but yate's are sleeved now and don't like to be horizontal


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


but yate's are sleeved now and don't like to be horizontal


Plenty of people have used them horizontally for years with no problems.


----------



## chinesethunda

i thought the old ones are ball bearing, hmm i guess its worth a try


----------



## dog_dealer

i'm plan to buying an rx360 for my i7 920 and i was wondering which vga block will be good for gtx570? any suggestions?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


i thought the old ones are ball bearing, hmm i guess its worth a try


They're sleeve bearing, and some people do have problems with mounting them horizontally, some people do not. I don't want you to buy them thinking it's 100% certain they won't crap out. They are very cheap though, so it's not a big loss if they do. Do a forum search for good ball-baring fans, I'm sure you'll get a satisfactory result.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dog_dealer*


i'm plan to buying an rx360 for my i7 920 and i was wondering which vga block will be good for gtx570? any suggestions?


The aquagraFX GTX 570 block is great, good performance, low restriction, and it looks pretty good.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/aqforgtx580a.html (Regular)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/aqcoaqforgtx1.html (Nickle)


----------



## chinesethunda

the good ones i know of are the gt's and they are really expensive, i don't want to spend 80 bucks on 5 gts though -_- thats almost half the price of the rad itself, i heard blademasters are okay as fans, but i don't know if they will crap out either


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


the good ones i know of are the gt's and they are really expensive, i don't want to spend 80 bucks on 5 gts though -_- thats almost half the price of the rad itself, i heard blademasters are okay as fans, but i don't know if they will crap out either


If you've purchased, or are planning on purchasing the rasa kit, the fans that come with it are not that bad.


----------



## Skyboss

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


If you've purchased, or are planning on purchasing the rasa kit, the fans that come with it are not that bad.


Yep, I'm surprised with the fans that came with my RS240 kit. They push a decent amount of air and the top of my case isn't even made for a rad yet quite a bit of air moves through the rad and my case vent holes.


----------



## chinesethunda

that is good to know, i guess i will have to do some testing, does the kit come with enough screws for push pull or no?

I was thinking my blademasters might be good for the rad. what are the fans that come with the rad? I just purchased it


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


that is good to know, i guess i will have to do some testing, does the kit come with enough screws for push pull or no?

I was thinking my blademasters might be good for the rad. what are the fans that come with the rad? I just purchased it


It does not come with enough screws for push/pull, you can purchase more online or at a hardware store though. They're 6/32 I believe.

I have no idea what kind of fans they are, sorry.


----------



## The_ocho

you can use the long screws for one side and she short screws for the other if you just put them through one fan screw tab not all the way through both


----------



## chinesethunda

well i got the rubber fan mounts so i think im okay, so i have a new problem. How do I hook up 5 fans? or 3 i guess to begin with? I was planning to try with blademasters but they are pwm, so that is even more of a challenge


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


well i got the rubber fan mounts so i think im okay, so i have a new problem. How do I hook up 5 fans? or 3 i guess to begin with? I was planning to try with blademasters but they are pwm, so that is even more of a challenge


I wired all mine together to one connector. Ran one fan sensor wire to my mobo cpu header so i could see speed then wired all the fans Ground and power to a 4 pin molex to run the fans at 12v straight off the psu


----------



## chinesethunda

i guess you had many splitters? what are they called because i can't seem to find them at petra's


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


i guess you had many splitters? what are they called because i can't seem to find them at petra's


I didnt use splitters, I cut and soldered them all together.

and i believe they are "fan y cables" im not sure EDIT heres a link
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10..._Splitter.html

This would be better tho
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...-PCB-6WAY.html

Remember tho if you plan on using your mobo fan header to power fans dont go over 1 amp. thats why i run mine off the psu because the 3 fans is .75 amp and too close to 1 in my opinion


----------



## chinesethunda

I have a bunch of

  these , would I be able to just string them all together and run it off one molex on my PSU?


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


I have a bunch of these, would I be able to just string them all together and run it off one molex on my PSU?


you could if you wanted to. but you wont get a fan speed reading on your mobo(if that matters to you) and it will look very messy in your case(if that matters to you )


----------



## The_ocho

here is a drawing of how i wired mine crude tho it may be 









on a fan the red is + black is ground and yellow is the sensor wire. 
I wired the reds together then ran it to a 4 pin molex
wired the blacks together then to a 4 pin molex 
then just one yellow to the sensor header for the cpu fan so i can monitor speeds. the other 2 fans yellows i just cut and didnt use.

this method gives you the option of 5 or 12v fans with not having to worry about drawing too much power.

a much much simpler way is to get a fan controller and plug them all into that tho


----------



## Yokes29

Hi XSPC owners. I have a noob/stupid question for you guys.
I'm reworking my second rig here and I own a RX360. I'm going to be making a loop just for my CPU + Motherboard (Full Cover MB Block). The RX360 should be good enough for that yes? I also have a MCR220 laying around, and i'm wondering if i will see a temp difference/performance increase if i throw in the MCR220 in the loop.
CPU = i7 980x slight OC to 4ghz (1.26vcore)
MB = Asus Rampage III Extreme.
THanks


----------



## chinesethunda

should be very enough. thats a slight OC, it won't be very hot, at least it shouldn't be.

I don't have a solder so i can't solder the wires to the mb pin to read it, but I most likely will have them just run full blast all the time, i don't really have extra fan controllers as my case already has its own.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


should be very enough. thats a slight OC, it won't be very hot, at least it shouldn't be.

I don't have a solder so i can't solder the wires to the mb pin to read it, but I most likely will have them just run full blast all the time, i don't really have extra fan controllers as my case already has its own.


you dont have to solder it to the mother board pin. just use one of the fan plugs you cut off of the fans pull out the red and black contacts and leave the yellow in. then plug that into the mobo


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_ocho*


you dont have to solder it to the mother board pin. just use one of the fan plugs you cut off of the fans pull out the red and black contacts and leave the yellow in. then plug that into the mobo


Get your umbrella its raining cold hard facts in here


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15143539*
> that is good to know, i guess i will have to do some testing, does the kit come with enough screws for push pull or no?
> 
> I was thinking my blademasters might be good for the rad. what are the fans that come with the rad? I just purchased it


Blademasters are good ran fans. I had 2 from a couple 212's. So I bought 2 more and put them on my rs240. Yate loons are cheaper though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15145400*
> should be very enough. thats a slight OC, it won't be very hot, at least it shouldn't be.
> 
> I don't have a solder so i can't solder the wires to the mb pin to read it, but I most likely will have them just run full blast all the time, i don't really have extra fan controllers as my case already has its own.


I have mine running off the Phantoms fan controller. You can put 2 fans on each plug with a splitter. Blademasters at full speed are too loud.


----------



## chinesethunda

lol imagine 5 blademasters at full speed.

I just got the rs360 and I will be having 5 fans on it so idk how I can put that on the phantom because if i split them then they will have uneven fan speeds right? don't you want all of them to spinning the same speeds?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15148794*
> lol imagine 5 blademasters at full speed.
> 
> I just got the rs360 and I will be having 5 fans on it so idk how I can put that on the phantom because if i split them then they will have uneven fan speeds right? don't you want all of them to spinning the same speeds?


Well you split them but put them at the same setting on the controller. I mean I really don't think a tiny difference in speed is going to make a difference. From my fans on medium to full the temp doesn't seem to change much.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15148794*
> lol imagine 5 blademasters at full speed.
> 
> I just got the rs360 and I will be having 5 fans on it so idk how I can put that on the phantom because if i split them then they will have uneven fan speeds right? don't you want all of them to spinning the same speeds?


Why would using a splitter cause uneven fan speeds?


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


lol imagine 5 blademasters at full speed.

I just got the rs360 and I will be having 5 fans on it so idk how I can put that on the phantom because if i split them then they will have uneven fan speeds right? don't you want all of them to spinning the same speeds?


they are all going to run the same speed (give or take a lil) because they all get the same power.

wired parallel they will all get full power 
wired series they will all get the same power but its going to be 1/5th of the original power in your case because you have 5 fans


----------



## Gainward

guys if I want to get more performance should I get another pump or another rad?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


guys if I want to get more performance should I get another pump or another rad?


If you mean temperature performance, you'll want another radiator. If you mean low flow, you'll want another pump.

Another radiator might not help much temperature wise though. (depending)


----------



## chinesethunda

if i hook them up to the things i linked to before it will be in parallel no?


----------



## iced00d

As I'm sitting here playing Rift and waiting for my RX240 kit I was wondering as to where to put the rad. the case I'll be using is a Antec LanBoy Air case. The purpose of this case is to allow positive pressure to be forced to the top of the case. I'm wondering if mounting the rad on top of the case with the Scythe Gentle Typhoon's on top of the rad, will defeat the purpose of cooling the rad. If i setup the Typhoon's to 'push' air down, then i'm tech blowing air back into the case thus probally disrupting the air flow. Currently I have 5 120's blowing into the case. The only other thing I can think of is to either mount the rad up top of the case with the Typhoon's outside the case top or mounting the rad on the side of the case. Thoughts?? Thanks..

Btw with the RX240 I should have enough for the CPU and a 560 TI correct?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gainward*


guys if I want to get more performance should I get another pump or another rad?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taylorsci*


If you mean temperature performance, you'll want another radiator. If you mean low flow, you'll want another pump.

Another radiator might not help much temperature wise though. (depending)


One key thing to remember is that no matter how large the rad you'll only be able to cool to a couple of degrees above your ambient temp at Idle. The performance of water cooling comes into play under load as it is more efficient at removing the heat and will help you keep your loaded temps lower. With this in mind a larger rad might help you lower your loaded temps a bit, the key work here is might no guarantee. Another factor is your overall coolant capacity, so the larger your res the more coolant your system holds and it can in theory have more time to release the heat before it makes the loop again. Last but not least is the Pump you want good flow but getting the biggest pump may not mean better cooling, you only need a pump that matches the size of your system. So as you make your system bigger you'll need to get a better pump that will be capable of moving the extra water and keep the flow rate up. The reason that having a pump that is way overkill for a system could be bad is if it moves the water though the loop to quickly it reduces the time it has to release the heat and lowers the efficiency of the system. Gainward I hope this helps.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iced00d*


As I'm sitting here playing Rift and waiting for my RX240 kit I was wondering as to where to put the rad. the case I'll be using is a Antec LanBoy Air case. The purpose of this case is to allow positive pressure to be forced to the top of the case. I'm wondering if mounting the rad on top of the case with the Scythe Gentle Typhoon's on top of the rad, will defeat the purpose of cooling the rad. If i setup the Typhoon's to 'push' air down, then i'm tech blowing air back into the case thus probally disrupting the air flow. Currently I have 5 120's blowing into the case. The only other thing I can think of is to either mount the rad up top of the case with the Typhoon's outside the case top or mounting the rad on the side of the case. Thoughts?? Thanks..

Btw with the RX240 I should have enough for the CPU and a 560 TI correct?


Well it's hard to say since that case wan't really designed for water cooling. It's supposed to be the best air cooling case out there since it's all mesh panels that can be moved to suit your needs, thus allowing you to also move your fans around. I'd mount the rad at the top and have the fans pull air from in the case and vent out the top then arrange your other fans to keep plenty of air moving over the motherboard and you should be good. As for if the 240 has enough to cool your CPU and a 560 it should, but you might want to upgrade to a 360 rad at some point it would probably be more efficient.


----------



## iced00d

Kewl thanks much ..


----------



## WeirdHarold

So this is just me wondering something, and when I finally order my Rasa kit I'll have to see if it might work. I have a corsair H50 and I wonder if the threaded inserts in the backplate for it will work with the Intel mounting screws that come with the Rasa kits? If it does then for $10 you can order and backplate kit form corsair and use it with the Rasa kits to get an AMD backplate







http://www.corsair.com/cwch50-brktkit.html


----------



## BZ1891

Count me in, recieved a rasa 750 rx 360 kit yesterday.

pics of the leak test





Temps at 4.8 HT


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


if i hook them up to the things i linked to before it will be in parallel no?


yes those connectors will be parallel. Voltage will be either 5v or 12v depending on what pin the fan header is connected to on the molex


----------



## chinesethunda

pretty sure its 12v cuz it came with my sickleflows


----------



## chinesethunda

will these work? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7442/ex-tub-271/Primochill_12_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting_-_UV_Blue.html#blank


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15156590*
> will these work? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7442/ex-tub-271/Primochill_12_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting_-_UV_Blue.html#blank


They will work if your looking for a T fitting for your loop, but don't trust that they are really leak proof! That's kinda like saying the Titanic was un-sinkable! Also make sure you get some good hose clamps maybe like these as they match the T fitting: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7468/ex-tub-295/Primochill_Nylon_Reusable_UV_Reactive_Hose_Clamp_-_UV_Blue_-_12_OD.html?tl=g30c289s721

Obviously choose the proper size for you application but as I said they match the T fittings in you link.


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15152383*
> If you mean temperature performance, you'll want another radiator. If you mean low flow, you'll want another pump.
> 
> Another radiator might not help much temperature wise though. (depending)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15154480*
> One key thing to remember is that no matter how large the rad you'll only be able to cool to a couple of degrees above your ambient temp at Idle. The performance of water cooling comes into play under load as it is more efficient at removing the heat and will help you keep your loaded temps lower. With this in mind a larger rad might help you lower your loaded temps a bit, the key work here is might no guarantee. Another factor is your overall coolant capacity, so the larger your res the more coolant your system holds and it can in theory have more time to release the heat before it makes the loop again. Last but not least is the Pump you want good flow but getting the biggest pump may not mean better cooling, you only need a pump that matches the size of your system. So as you make your system bigger you'll need to get a better pump that will be capable of moving the extra water and keep the flow rate up. The reason that having a pump that is way overkill for a system could be bad is if it moves the water though the loop to quickly it reduces the time it has to release the heat and lowers the efficiency of the system. Gainward I hope this helps.


Thank you very much guys


----------



## chinesethunda

The clamps that come with the kit isn't enough?

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15159581*
> The clamps that come with the kit isn't enough?
> 
> Sent from my brain using my fingers


Yeah they will work too, but in that cause make sure you get the right size T fitting to match the barbs and hose diameter that comes in the kit or the clamps in the kit will not seal properly.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward;15159433*
> Thank you very much guys


You are very welcome


----------



## boateye

Not sure if this was answered (tis a long thread!), but would an RS 360 loop be able to sufficiently cool a core i7-930 (OC to 3.8 GHz @ 1.30v) and a GTX 580 out of the box, or do i need to upgrade the Rad first?

I should be getting my loop on the 6th, and i'm REAL excited!

Also, sould i get the EVGA waterblock for my GPU or the one by XSPC?

Also, Also, I have a couple extra Red LEDs (with tails and headers for the mobo HDD and pwr lights) that i might want to use instead of the packed in blue LED for the res/pump. do i need to do anything special to make this happen?


----------



## Worple

The rs 360 will work
I have never used a evga waterblock so dont know about them I do know XSPC makes a good gpu block
and yes you can use any color 5mm leds in the resI changed mine to red


----------



## douglatins

So guys i want to WC, i wanted a loop with compression fitting, a MCPX pump, tygon tubing, an apogee xt and a RX360 rad, but that will cost me around 400USD, but the rasa kit is so tempting, i get everything for the price of rad/pump/block. What should i do? Save for a 1337 or get the rasa?


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *douglatins*


So guys i want to WC, i wanted a loop with compression fitting, a MCPX pump, tygon tubing, an apogee xt and a RX360 rad, but that will cost me around 400USD, but the rasa kit is so tempting, i get everything for the price of rad/pump/block. What should i do? Save for a 1337 or get the rasa?


I was saving up for a loop until i saw this and got it. I got the RS360 kit and I love it. Right now with it cpu only I dropped 20C at 100%load 24/7 with stock clocks. I have my 965 OCd to 4.0 and the thing never gets above 38C 100% 24/7, I say get it and don't look back. if you have the money get the RX360 kit since thats the rad you wanted before and Use the extra money on tubing amd fans or GPU cooling. If you still want compression fittings you can just buy them separately and use them in the kit instead of the barbs. all in all itll still be cheaper than a custom loop


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *douglatins*


So guys i want to WC, i wanted a loop with compression fitting, a MCPX pump, tygon tubing, an apogee xt and a RX360 rad, but that will cost me around 400USD, but the rasa kit is so tempting, i get everything for the price of rad/pump/block. What should i do? Save for a 1337 or get the rasa?


Go custom. The RASA kits are a hit or miss from the total 3 kits I've setup - serious quality check issues.


----------



## BZ1891

^I would get the kit and either get the custom tubing and fittings at the same time, keep the in box tubing/fittings as backup. This way you save a lot of money and can see for yourself if you really need the more heavy duty stuff for your loop and upgrade the bits overtime based on what you think is needed as the rx360 kit comes with an rx360 rad, currently the best performing rad, and is probably one of the biggest factors in cooling performance. The rasa waterblobk is no slouch either and is only off by a degree compared to the others.

The only week spot could be the pump but again if it saves you half the cost of buying it all individualy then you can always upgrade that at a later time.

I have a question of my own, I am using a push-pull config with 6 fans on my rx360 but with no shroud, assuming I don't buy a shroud yet, would I get better temps not using the the extra 3 fans or will it still be beneficial (with in the scope of push-pull). Are the extra extra fans without a shroud likely to hurt cooling performance?


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BZ1891*


I have a question of my own, I am using a push-pull config with 6 fans on my rx360 but with no shroud, assuming I don't buy a shroud yet, would I get better temps not using the the extra 3 fans or will it still be beneficial (with in the scope of push-pull). Are the extra extra fans without a shroud likely to hurt cooling performance?


It all depends on your current fans and whether or not you actually control them. Using a shroud reduces noise and will allow you to run your fans at a higher RPM, while using the 6 fans you might be toning it down due to the noise caused by the air turbulence.

If you're just running all your fans at max speed then 6 fans would be more beneficial, otherwise a shroud would decrease the noise dramatically while offering negligible temperature differences.


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agenesis*


It all depends on your current fans and whether or not you actually control them. Using a shroud reduces noise and will allow you to run your fans at a higher RPM, while using the 6 fans you might be toning it down due to the noise caused by the air turbulence.

If you're just running all your fans at max speed then 6 fans would be more beneficial, otherwise a shroud would decrease the noise dramatically while offering negligible temperature differences.


Thanks for the response. I am using 3x xinrullian fans at 1700rpm/70cfm that came with the rx kit as pull and 3x zm-f3 1800rpm/75 cfm as push.

I Have them all wired up to a fc-2 6 channel fan controller so can adjust fan speeds on an individual basis like turn them all on full when load testing and either turn them all off or only have the pull fans on at low rpm for a silence, the rx360 rad is designed for low rpm fans anyway so the latter should have excellent noise/performance results.

Your response also makes me wonder as the rx360 is designed for low rpm fans (lower cfm by extension) the shroud will probably not have such an effect once the fans are at full anyway other than perhaps reduce noise.

ps. staic pressure might have a part to play and as all my fans have high sp compared to cfm I should be good to go


----------



## chinesethunda

I have the rs 360 and was wondering if I should use the stock fans or use three blademasters or should I use four blademasters in push and pull and then have a yate loon as a push?

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


I have the rs 360 and was wondering if I should use the stock fans or use three blademasters or should I use four blademasters in push and pull and then have a yate loon as a push?

Sent from my brain using my fingers


Very few people use the stock fans. Blademasters are good rad fans. I have different fans on the bottom of the 360 rad then I do on the top, doesn't seem to matter much. A guy on here had a similar setup like mine. Went out and spent a bunch of $$ on gentle typhoons and said his temps didn't even change./


----------



## chinesethunda

lol i think il just use my blademasters for the most part then


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, as a stop gap or just in the mean time I had a new Corsair H50 I never got around to installing, so I put that in until I can afford to order my Rasa kit. I hope to have it ordered and in my case by early next year, I hope


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15168265*
> Well, as a stop gap or just in the mean time I had a new Corsair H50 I never got around to installing, so I put that in until I can afford to order my Rasa kit. I hope to have it ordered and in my case by early next year, I hope


The H50 isn't bad. I had one before getting my Rasa kit. I have to warn you though, water cooling is extremely addictive:


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


The H50 isn't bad. I had one before getting my Rasa kit. I have to warn you though, water cooling is extremely addictive:










No warning needed LoL, I'd grab my Rasa Kit right now if I could but first things first I need to update my system! It just won't due to be running on a system 2 sockets ago LoL







Like my system specs show I'm still running on and AM2+ system. But once I get my Rasa kit it will probably be a great time to try one of the mods on the H50 that I've seen floating around


----------



## WeirdHarold

Found this while looking at possible future cases I might be interested in and for the price, (though high) for what you get it really isn't that bad of a price. A cube case that comes with 2 XSPC D5 res's and 4 that's right 4 RX306 Rad's pre installed. take a look:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...ml?id=TVBPMCje


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


Found this while looking at possible future cases I might be interested in and for the price, (though high) for what you get it really isn't that bad of a price. A cube case that comes with 2 XSPC D5 res's and 4 that's right 4 RX306 Rad's pre installed. take a look:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...ml?id=TVBPMCje


Wow that is a pretty good deal.


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


Found this while looking at possible future cases I might be interested in and for the price, (though high) for what you get it really isn't that bad of a price. A cube case that comes with 2 XSPC D5 res's and 4 that's right 4 RX306 Rad's pre installed. take a look:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...ml?id=TVBPMCje


Thats the case i got lol HERES a picture of mine about half way down the page. They are BIG I have 4 rx360 rads in mine and a ton of gear 
And theres nothing preinstalled even the case needs to be assembled lol


----------



## Worple

Here is the inside


----------



## Bastyn99

Hey guys, just bought some new hardware and it should be here tomorrow, but Im gonna reuse my Rasa kit. Just wanna know, how should I drain, take apart, and clean it ? Gonna use new tubes.


----------



## The_ocho

One more piece of the puzzle. Now I just need my Video card and block to get here, how long do you think it'll take to ship from Quebec to Las Vegas?


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;15173058*
> Hey guys, just bought some new hardware and it should be here tomorrow, but Im gonna reuse my Rasa kit. Just wanna know, how should I drain, take apart, and clean it ? Gonna use new tubes.


when i drained mine i used a piece of tubing and sucked the res dry, then tilted the case untill the rest of the water drained to the res then sucked it out again. Then started pulling it apart.


----------



## chinesethunda

what do you mean sucked the res dry?


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15176481*
> what do you mean sucked the res dry?


lol


----------



## Bastyn99

Did you put your lips to the tubing at suck it dry with your mouth ?
Also do you think I need to clean the parts ? And if so, how do I do that ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;15176662*
> Did you put your lips to the tubing at suck it dry with your mouth ?
> Also do you think I need to clean the parts ? And if so, how do I do that ?


You don't need to use your mouth. I purchased a syringe from a local pet store and just attached it to one end of the hose and had the other in the fill port. Then you just use the syringe to pull the water through and into a bucket or a sink. To clean the parts all you should really need to do is flush them with water. You can use tap water to flush them out, but I would rinse them out a final time with distilled water to be on the safe side. I hope this helps.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastyn99;15176662*
> Did you put your lips to the tubing at suck it dry with your mouth ?
> Also do you think I need to clean the parts ? And if so, how do I do that ?


I did to get it started once it starts lower the tube below the res and gravity will suck the rest out. I didnt clean anything as the system was almost new but you can pull the block apart and iv read to clean with ketchup and a tooth brush. Rad I would fill up half way with boiling water and shake it like a baby pour the water out into a cup so you can see what kind of junk comes out then rinse and repeat until water comes out clear


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15176481*
> what do you mean sucked the res dry?


Haha Im not gonna explain that, your imagination will suffice


----------



## Nitronium

Here are some pics from my new build. I should have more of the semi-complete build tonight.


----------



## Bastyn99

Thanks BramSLI1 and The_ocho, I will do that.


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitronium;15177225*
> Here are some pics from my new build. I should have more of the semi-complete build tonight.
> 
> Very nice


----------



## chinesethunda

looking good. how often should the res be cleaned? is it not enough just to drain it?


----------



## Worple

I clean mine out along with everything else loop


----------



## boateye

Seeing all these 800d case pics make me want to get one myself, but I'm so used to ruby's...shape that I'm not sure if i can make the jump!

On topic,: I'm loving the white tubing against your black interior, Nitronium!

Question: I ordered my rs360 kit, and it'll be here on Thursday. I read about how you should not kix metals in your loop. The kit comes with a silver kill coil, so is there some kind of waterblock metal I should avoid to prevent corrosion?


----------



## Worple

aluminum


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boateye*


Seeing all these 800d case pics make me want to get one myself, but I'm so used to ruby's...shape that I'm not sure if i can make the jump!

On topic,: I'm loving the white tubing against your black interior, Nitronium!

Question: I ordered my rs360 kit, and it'll be here on Thursday. I read about how you should not kix metals in your loop. The kit comes with a silver kill coil, so is there some kind of waterblock metal I should avoid to prevent corrosion?


You could also put some anti corrosive stuff in your loop, probably the easiest to get your hands on is automotive antifreeze. But I have issues with using antifreeze in a computer cooling loop. But you could try something like this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14...tml?tl=g30c337

coolants like this should stop corrosion in a mixed metal loop, however I've not heard anything about the Kill coils causing corrosion. I hope this helps.


----------



## chinesethunda

i think mine comes thursday too, what is the steps I should go through to install the w/c kit?

install my mobo and hardware -> install rasa kit -> unplug everything cept for rasa kit -> leak test for 8+ hours?


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


i think mine comes thursday too, what is the steps I should go through to install the w/c kit?

install my mobo and hardware -> install rasa kit -> unplug everything cept for rasa kit -> leak test for 8+ hours?



I had to pull everything to cut out the top of my case so I took advantage of the full tear down to do some wire management and cleaning. basically had everything out mounted the block to mobo. put in psu. installed mobo(made sure to run the wires behind the mobo that i could hide back there), installed rad, installed res, started running the tubing, then filled her up and leak tested and bled for 30 min. while it was leak testing i was doing the cable management and installing the rest of components.. then booted her up and reaped the benefits

On a side note I should have listened to everybody saying this tubing is junk, i thought i could live with it but after only a few days its already brown and dirty looking. its not the water as i can look in the res and its crystal clear. Guess ill order some tubing what color do you think?


----------



## chinesethunda

depends on the color of your case, i have blue LEDs everywhere so i ordered blue tubing. what does it mean when you bleed it?


----------



## Inpulze

liking this kit so far dunno if this has been done b4 so check it out let me know what ya think!


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Inpulze*


liking this kit so far dunno if this has been done b4 so check it out let me know what ya think!


That's interesting, I don't think I've ever seen that before.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


depends on the color of your case, i have blue LEDs everywhere so i ordered blue tubing. what does it mean when you bleed it?


Get all the air out of the system. Bleeding the air out

Im thinking red tubing, My system is all blacked out. black case inside and out, black PCB on mobo and video card but my psu is half black and red with black sleeving with red Xs on it. the only other color is Blue on my CPU Power phase leds nothing i can do about that but put tape over them lol


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inpulze;15185134*
> liking this kit so far dunno if this has been done b4 so check it out let me know what ya think!


I think it looks very good but what is that tubing made out of?


----------



## chinesethunda

I'm curious about the tubing too. How does the process of getting the air out work?

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## Newwt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15186384*
> I think it looks very good but what is that tubing made out of?


looks like aluminum


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15189382*
> How does the process of getting the air out work?


Just fill your RES turn on the pump till it drains it, then fill it again, repeat until the system is full. at that point leave the pump on so it can flow the water and start moving the case around to get the air out of all the components. Pinch or bend tubing with your fingers helps get the little air bubbles out of that. tapping on the rad helps get air out of that. Every system is different so you just gotta tilt or shake or tap the system to make it work.


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newwt;15189706*
> looks like aluminum


Thats what I am scared of I see bads times ahead if that is aluminum


----------



## The_ocho

pretty sure it is aluminum. Stainless would look more smooth and less dull and i cant see any of the grain.

edit but looking closer i cant tell because of the flash....

Im so used to all my tubing having color codes to what is is made of and what it has inside it. Damn jets


----------



## Worple

lol


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15191029*
> Thats what I am scared of I see bads times ahead if that is aluminum


It'll probably be okay as long as he uses an anti-corrosive, I personally wouldn't want the risk though.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15191217*
> lol


New avatar for a while because of you haha


----------



## Worple




----------



## Inpulze

Tubing is the same tube used in air con systems and water cooling systems in cars. It's made to carry water and other liquids. lets hope i dont have any problems with the anti corrosive stuff i dont see why i would these types of systems run water daily.


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inpulze;15194092*
> Tubing is the same tube used in air con systems and water cooling systems in cars. It's made to carry water and other liquids. lets hope i dont have any problems with the anti corrosive stuff i dont see why i would these types of systems run water daily.


Are you saying you don't understand why you would need anti-corrosives, or are you saying you don't think you'll have any problem with the anti-corrosives?


----------



## WeirdHarold

You may have problems with corrosion in the system due to electrolysis because of different types of metals in the system. You have aluminum tubes and a copper waterblock for instance this could cause issues. Its best to plan your system out so you use only one type of metal throughout. However that is very clean looking and I applaud your ingenuity, McGyver would adopt you I believe


----------



## Inpulze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15195778*
> You may have problems with corrosion in the system due to electrolysis because of different types of metals in the system. You gave aluminum tubes and a copper waterblock for instance this could cause issues. Its best to plan your system out so you use only one type of metal throughout. However that is very clean looking and I applaud your ingenuity, McGyver would adopt you I believe


haha thanks yea i wanted to go something really different, ill be happy once the other metal panels are covered and the system is together. i dont think i should have problem with corrosion ive spoken to some afew people and once i stick some anti corrosive in there i think i should be okay although i could be wrong. i must admit when coming up with the idea i never gave it much thought until i was half way through the build.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inpulze;15195928*
> haha thanks yea i wanted to go something really different, ill be happy once the other metal panels are covered and the system is together. i dont think i should have problem with corrosion ive spoken to some afew people and once i stick some anti corrosive in there i think i should be okay although i could be wrong. i must admit when coming up with the idea i never gave it much thought until i was half way through the build.


I just want to add that just because a tube is designed to do something doesn't mean it does it well. Car cooling systems suffer from the same corrosion that our cooling systems do when mixing metals. Over the years iv ran into plenty of occasions when doing repairs of various vehicles of Galvanic corrosion. Especially since aluminum heads and rads are pretty much standard while aluminum blocks aren't and there are copper rads out there still too. even with a full aluminum engine and cooling system iv seen it happen because of the bolts holding it together are made of dissimilar metals.

I applaud your setup its beautiful! but be sure to put some effort into anti corrosion or maybe even remake the tubing out of copper. Maintenance will be key in your setup


----------



## Inpulze

Thanks for te advice, I'll def be watchful any thing yous can suggest to help the system, brands of anti corrosion?? Ant thing else I should watch for or do before I complete the build??


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inpulze;15197821*
> Thanks for te advice, I'll def be watchful any thing yous can suggest to help the system, brands of anti corrosion?? Ant thing else I should watch for or do before I complete the build??


10-20% antifreeze to water works, there are some coolants with anti corrosives also. Some people claim that purple ice works also.


----------



## lightsout

Just slap a zinc and the loop and you'll be fine


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15200161*
> Just slap a zinc and the loop and you'll be fine


LMAO we building a ship now


----------



## chinesethunda

got my kit today, should I set it up now including the motherboard or wait until my CPU comes in to put everything together?


----------



## BZ1891

^You might aswell put it alltogether and run a leak test in time for the cpu's arrival, you'll need to recheck your cpu block for leaks after cpu installation through.


----------



## BZ1891

Got my build log images together, only using a phone camera though.

System components:

Intel core i7 2600k
Asus P8p67 pro
2x 4GB G.Skill RipjawsX 1600Mhz cl9
Radeon HD 6950 2GB
2TB HD Space (Samsung f1 1TB+ 2x Seagate 400GB)
Thermaltake ToughPower 850w
Thermaltake Armor+

Additions in this build:

XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 water cooling Kit
3x Zalman ZM-F3 120mm fans in addition to the 3x Xinrullian 120mm fans included with Kit
Lamptron FC2 (six channel fan controller)
1.5 Litres distilled water
Mayhems Dye UV Blue + Deep Purple
2 UV leds
Silver Coil + PT Cu

*Gettings things started:*









*Rx360 radiator with 6 fans in Push Pull*







*Case + fan controller outer view*









*Case side*







*Case interior*







*XSPC Rasa CPU Block*









*CPU temps for i7 2600k @ 4.8 GHz running prime95 small FFT.*



Looking forward to adding a gpu block in the not too distant future.


----------



## chinesethunda

if you mount it to the back, won't it intake the hot air from the GPU exhaust?


----------



## Worple

Looks good sir


----------



## chinesethunda

i am probably going to wait for my dremel to get here to make some mods to my case first and then I will install it


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BZ1891;15205016*
> Got my build log images together, only using a phone camera though.
> 
> System components:
> 
> Intel core i7 2600k
> Asus P8p67 pro
> 2x 4GB G.Skill RipjawsX 1600Mhz cl9
> Radeon HD 6950 2GB
> 2TB HD Space (Samsung f1 1TB+ 2x Seagate 400GB)
> Thermaltake ToughPower 850w
> Thermaltake Armor+
> 
> Additions in this build:
> 
> XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 water cooling Kit
> 3x Zalman ZM-F3 120mm fans in addition to the 3x Xinrullian 120mm fans included with Kit
> Lamptron FC2 (six channel fan controller)
> 1.5 Litres distilled water
> Mayhems Dye UV Blue + Deep Purple
> 2 UV leds
> Silver Coil + PT Cu
> 
> *Gettings things started:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Rx360 radiator with 6 fans in Push Pull*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Case + fan controller outer view*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Case side*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Case interior*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *XSPC Rasa CPU Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *CPU temps for i7 2600k @ 4.8 GHz running prime95 small FFT.*
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to adding a gpu block in the not too distant future.


Looks good but......
Dye will clog you cpu block and rad, thats why color tubing is prefered instead of dye


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;15206066*
> Looks good but......
> Dye will clog you cpu block and rad, thats why color tubing is prefered instead of dye


When you quote a post with so many pictures it's good practice to remove them.

Supposedly mayhem dyes do not clog like other dyes/coolants do.


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15205977*
> if you mount it to the back, won't it intake the hot air from the GPU exhaust?


Well it's an extra width 360 rad so it won't make much difference on a single cpu loop, but once I add a gpu block it'll become irrelevant.

ps. when gaming I can turn the push fans off individually and as the rx360 is designed for low rpm/cfm fans it shouldn't make much difference to cooling performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15205983*
> Looks good sir


Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;15206066*
> Looks good but......
> Dye will clog you cpu block and rad, thats why color tubing is prefered instead of dye


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15208150*
> When you quote a post with so many pictures it's good practice to remove them.
> 
> Supposedly mayhem dyes do not clog like other dyes/coolants do.


Correct, that's why I went with the mayhems, can change dye colour on the fly


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BZ1891;15211827*
> Well it's an extra width 360 rad so it won't make much difference on a single cpu loop, but once I add a gpu block it'll become irrelevant.
> 
> ps. when gaming I can turn the push fans off individually and as the rx360 is designed for low rpm/cfm fans it shouldn't make much difference to cooling performance.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct, that's why I went with the mayhems, can change dye colour on the fly


I don't trust dye's, i will just get distilled water + kill coil and some color tubing

On other theme, does a rx240 will be enought to cool the cpu + 1 gpu, right?


----------



## Worple

Yes sir 120.1 per block
And I dont trust dye myself lol looks good for other people but I am funny about my gear


----------



## lightsout

Why do people quote posts with 10 pics????????

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15201523*
> LMAO we building a ship now


Somebody got it


----------



## chinesethunda

i got it today and i want to mount it. a few questions
1. since the backplate is sticky can i still reuse it? my new CPU comes in a few days but I want to test it now, can I just take it off the back of this mobo and stick it on the other?

2. I have antivibration fan screws that I got from frozen cpu, problem is.... I have no idea how to use them? Do I put them in the radiator and the through the fans? how do I get it in the rad fan screw holes?

3. is the kit supposed to come with screws to put the fans on there?


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15219452*
> i got it today and i want to mount it. a few questions
> 1. since the backplate is sticky can i still reuse it? my new CPU comes in a few days but I want to test it now, can I just take it off the back of this mobo and stick it on the other?
> 
> 2. I have antivibration fan screws that I got from frozen cpu, problem is.... I have no idea how to use them? Do I put them in the radiator and the through the fans? how do I get it in the rad fan screw holes?
> 
> 3. is the kit supposed to come with screws to put the fans on there?


1.) Yes you can take it off, it's rather difficult thought.

2.) Don't know.

3.) It does.


----------



## chinesethunda

how do i test the kit without turning on the whole computer? nothing is plugged in right now but the psu won't turn on without the mobo turning on


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


how do i test the kit without turning on the whole computer? nothing is plugged in right now but the psu won't turn on without the mobo turning on


Thats what the plug that comes with the kit is for. plug the psu 14pin into the plug or just jump the green wire to a black one then use the switch on the back of the psu or a power strip to turn it on and off


----------



## H3KT1C

Hello,

Just like to say hello to everyone, I'm looking into finally water cooling my PC, just so many options and not quite sure exactly what I need, I have been looking at buying the XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 Kit, is the CPU water block compatible with socket 1155 and also would the rad fit inside a CM 690 II Advanced case?

This site here states it supports the 1155 socket

though this site doesn't even mention it does.


----------



## macca_dj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3KT1C*


Hello,

Just like to say hello to everyone, I'm looking into finally water cooling my PC, just so many options and not quite sure exactly what I need, I have been looking at buying the XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 Kit, is the CPU water block compatible with socket 1155 and also would the rad fit inside a CM 690 II Advanced case?

This site here states it supports the 1155 socket

though this site doesn't even mention it does.


Hello
Your case will do a 240 Rad with no problem so you would be looking at the RS240 kit or the RX240 kit for your system and yes 1155 is supported.

RS240
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterc...ercooling-kit/
RX240
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterc...ercooling-kit/


----------



## H3KT1C

Quote:



Originally Posted by *macca_dj*


Hello
Your case will do a 240 Rad with no problem so you would be looking at the RS240 kit or the RX240 kit for your system and yes 1155 is supported.

RS240
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterc...ercooling-kit/
RX240
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterc...ercooling-kit/


Thanks very much for confirming this for me









This will be my first water cooling build so not quite sure about everything, I did read somewhere that I should buy some better tubing e.g. PrimoFlex

Also would I need a silver kill coil?

Is distilled water best to use or would it be better to use Thermaltake BigWater Coolant

Later on down the track I am thinking of also cooling the GPU with a XSPC RASA GPU - Universal Gfx Block


----------



## CloudCR

I have a quick question. Do you guys think a Rasa kit pump will work fine running in a loop with a RX360,RS240,rasa block and two GPU blocks? Or I need to get another pump?


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3KT1C*


Thanks very much for confirming this for me









This will be my first water cooling build so not quite sure about everything, I did read somewhere that I should buy some better tubing e.g. PrimoFlex

Also would I need a silver kill coil?

Is distilled water best to use or would it be better to use Thermaltake BigWater Coolant

Later on down the track I am thinking of also cooling the GPU with a XSPC RASA GPU - Universal Gfx Block


Distilled water would be better since it won't gunk up your blocks.
Silver coil is mandatory to prevent bacteria growth.
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D with Tapatalk


----------



## yappy

Will a XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 kit be enough to cool 2x 6990's and a 1090T ?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CloudCR*


I have a quick question. Do you guys think a Rasa kit pump will work fine running in a loop with a RX360,RS240,rasa block and two GPU blocks? Or I need to get another pump?


I've literally just finished putting my gear back together and im running;

Rasa Block

HeatKiller 69x0 Block (Two of them)

RX360 Rad

With loadsa of tubing and fittings so far i've got no problem and good idle temps, gonna do some gaming in a bit see how the temps go.

My GPU's are at about 27C and 28C at idle.

I'll throw up some pics later of it all, you'll see what i mean about loadsa tubing, i made a slight boo boo


----------



## CloudCR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


I've literally just finished putting my gear back together and im running;

Rasa Block

HeatKiller 69x0 Block (Two of them)

RX360 Rad

With loadsa of tubing and fittings so far i've got no problem and good idle temps, gonna do some gaming in a bit see how the temps go.

My GPU's are at about 27C and 28C at idle.

I'll throw up some pics later of it all, you'll see what i mean about loadsa tubing, i made a slight boo boo










Thanks this gives me hope in not having to change the pump







Waiting for the pics


----------



## H3KT1C

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


Distilled water would be better since it won't gunk up your blocks.
Silver coil is mandatory to prevent bacteria growth.
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D with Tapatalk


Thanks a tonne Citra









Since the silver coil is mandatory, how often do you need to swap it out, just when ever you drain the loop and reservoir and refill every 3 months or so?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CloudCR*


Thanks this gives me hope in not having to change the pump







Waiting for the pics










Yeah the pumps better i think than people give it credit for, im prob gonna change my CPU block to a Raystorm in future which will help. Cooling the GPUs in parallel may also help the pump i think. Hoping to eventually do tri fire in parallel.

If i do change the pump it'll cost about Â£100 for the new res and pump combo, but i think my next change could be the Raystorm and a second Rad either the RX240 or RX360 just not sure yet.


----------



## CloudCR

I'm on the same boat you are. I'm planning on getting a new block for my cpu maybe a Raystorm. and well I thought on getting a D5 and the xspc reservoir for it but I still need to buy the new cpu,mobo,ram and the second 570


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3KT1C*


Thanks a tonne Citra









Since the silver coil is mandatory, how often do you need to swap it out, just when ever you drain the loop and reservoir and refill every 3 months or so?


You never have to change the coil it lasts forever.
When I drain my system I remove my blocks and disassemble them for cleaning and clean the res out as best I can. Some times I change the tubing if I see its not as flexible as it was when it was new.


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yappy*


Will a XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 kit be enough to cool 2x 6990's and a 1090T ?


Yes it will


----------



## H3KT1C

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


You never have to change the coil it lasts forever.
When I drain my system I remove my blocks and disassemble them for cleaning and clean the res out as best I can. Some times I change the tubing if I see its not as flexible as it was when it was new.


That's good to know it never needs to be changed. What do you do to prevent corrosion?

I still have some AS5 left over, would this be the best thermal paste to use or is there something better out there?

I did read somewhere that it's better to get a tighter fitting tubing than the one you get in the kit, is this true?

Would you recommend the clips for tubing?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I purchase the correct equipment and have it set up without having any hassles or any problems down the track.


----------



## Worple

AS5 is great use that
the size tubing you will get is 7/16 ID 1/2 OD will fit very tight but people op for the color tubing they like in that size
You will get clips with the kit for the tubing and you can use them but if its cut right after you put it on you have to cut the tubing to get it off. So its up to you if you want to use the clips


----------



## bigkahuna360

I have the XSPC RASA 750 RS360.


----------



## Worple

Nice work looks great


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


Nice work looks great










Thanks I tried


----------



## H3KT1C

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


AS5 is great use that
the size tubing you will get is 7/16 ID 1/2 OD will fit very tight but people op for the color tubing they like in that size
You will get clips with the kit for the tubing and you can use them but if its cut right after you put it on you have to cut the tubing to get it off. So its up to you if you want to use the clips


I'll stick with the AS5








Ah yep, the color of tubing won't really bother me too much.
I may go with compression fittings, just see how I go at first, I heard water cooling is addictive, I know I will upgrade bits here and there.
Can't wait to get started, just waiting for an item to sell online.


----------



## chinesethunda

so... I have my rasa rs360 installed and temporarily mounted to the back of my case until I can mod it and put it up top. However, at idle, it is running hotter than my hyper212+ but it is a 10C drop from load than the 212+, so i guess its not that bad


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15226335*
> so... I have my rasa rs360 installed and temporarily mounted to the back of my case until I can mod it and put it up top. However, at stock, it is running hotter than my hyper212+. Any advice?


there probably is air in your system somewhere. how is your rad mounted(pics) if you have it mounted vertical which is how it sounds since its on the back are the barbs on top or bottom? If they are on the bottom it makes a great trap for air!

Also make sure your block is mounted correct and make sure you pulled the plastic off of the block before you installed it (I had a hard time with this because mine didnt have plastic on it and i was like it wont come off haha)


----------



## chinesethunda

everything else is good. I think it might be trapped air because the barbs are on the bottom, I guess hopefully when I mount it to the top it will be better and the air will get pushed out


----------



## Worple

Tilt the case front to back and side to side with the pc off and try it again


----------



## chinesethunda

okay thanks. Also is it better to go from the res to rad to the cpu block or from rad to res to cpu?


----------



## Greenback

doesn't really matter as long as it's tidy no kinks and use as little tubing as possible


----------



## chinesethunda

okay, I hope that when I put it inside my case it will be better


----------



## Skyboss

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


okay thanks. Also is it better to go from the res to rad to the cpu block or from rad to res to cpu?


According to most folks here, it doesn't seem to matter as the water normalizes to an equal temperature in time.

I put mine from rad to cpu block to res/pump. On an i3 2100 it rocks it and loads are around 43-45C using linx. WC took off about 14C from my previous load temps with stock cooler!


----------



## kdon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skyboss*


According to most folks here, it doesn't seem to matter as the water normalizes to an equal temperature in time.

I put mine from rad to cpu block to res/pump. On an i3 2100 it rocks it and loads are around 43-45C using linx. WC took off about 14C from my previous load temps with stock cooler!


temp doesnt normalize throughout the loop...

think about a radiator: will water going in have the same temp as water going out? If yes, it is the world's worst radiator.

If min/maxing like people here tend to do, the optimal setup would have the CPU block right after the radiator, so it can dissipate some of the heat from the pump.

IMHO, not a huge matter as the radiator can only dissipate so much heat anyway, just make your loop in a way that is functional and aesthetically appealing


----------



## chinesethunda

how much difference do you think it would make? I will change it to rad then cpu when i move my rad to the top of my case


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


how much difference do you think it would make? I will change it to rad then cpu when i move my rad to the top of my case


If you have a gpu before the cpu, I would say it would net a pretty big difference, I can't tell you exactly though. Probably 5c+. If it's just the pump before the cpu I wouldn't expect a large difference.


----------



## Skyboss

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kdon*


temp doesnt normalize throughout the loop...

think about a radiator: will water going in have the same temp as water going out? If yes, it is the world's worst radiator.

If min/maxing like people here tend to do, the optimal setup would have the CPU block right after the radiator, so it can dissipate some of the heat from the pump.

IMHO, not a huge matter as the radiator can only dissipate so much heat anyway, just make your loop in a way that is functional and aesthetically appealing










That definitely makes sense kdon. I just have my cpu getting the cold water from rad first. I figured that would be the best solution to keep my meager i3 cool. Lol.


----------



## Taboo

Hello guys, I'm new here. I just want to ask you guys if a rx120 rad would be enough to cool an OC'd i7 2600k, lets say 4 to 4.5GHz?


----------



## kdon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skyboss*


That definitely makes sense kdon. I just have my cpu getting the cold water from rad first. I figured that would be the best solution to keep my meager i3 cool. Lol.


Haha yeah there's a ton of factors that can affect your temps if you look for them and nitpick, that's why the best choice is to take the big heat-inducing factors and account for them by dissipating their heat imputs before the one that really matters (cpu).

It would be interesting to get some empirical data on pump before or after rad in rasa kits, where the pump is entirely cooled by the water it is immersed in, unlike other pumps that radiate heat into the air


----------



## kdon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Taboo*


Hello guys, I'm new here. I just want to ask you guys if a rx120 rad would be enough to cool an OC'd i7 2600k, lets say 4 to 4.5GHz?


People have done 4.5 on the stock intel cooler so you'll be fine







though I would get a larger rad and use the packed external rad mounts to mount it on the back! Good luck


----------



## boateye

Woot! i got my kit the other day and i'm currently running a 24hr leak test. 12 hours in and so far, so good!

Here's a short video of Ruby (my sig rig) in action!

  
 Ruby's Underwater Rave  



 
Sorry for lame music. This was the first song i thought of to try the sound detector with

Small problem:I'm trying to connect my HAF932's fillport to the reservoir. Since the reservoir's fillport is on the right, while my case's FP is on the left, i got 2 Danger Den fillports (DD FP) to connect the two with some tubing.

However, the DD FP doesn't fully go into the reservoir (last picture). The tip of it just barely fits into the reservoir's fillport hole.

*Is there another fillport i could use/a way to make the DD FP fit down to where the plastic O-ring is?*

*Is there some tool that i can use to widen the reservoir's FP hole and thread it so that i can use the DD FP? *

As you can see, I don't have much experience with tools outside of the basics like screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and drills.

TL;DR: read the bold


----------



## chinesethunda

looks good. I don't have mine hooked up to the GPU, only the cpu, I will try putting the cpu after the rad to see how that affects it.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15237076*
> looks good. I don't have mine hooked up to the GPU, only the cpu, I will try putting the cpu after the rad to see how that affects it.


I run my res/pump, rad, cpu, gpu, res/pump. in a cpu only system it really doesn't matter the order tho because the water will even out over time


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15237076*
> looks good. I don't have mine hooked up to the GPU, only the cpu, I will try putting the cpu after the rad to see how that affects it.


Are you currently running Pump>CPU>Rad then? and are wanting to go Pump>Rad>CPU?

If so i really cant see it making much difference at all really, i wouldn't bother wasting your time.


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_ocho;15237269*
> I run my res/pump, rad, cpu, gpu, res/pump. in a cpu only system it really doesn't matter the order tho because the water will even out over time


Haha no the water won't, refer to my post on the previous page about the function of bthe radiator in the system.

Inb4 armchair physicist: credentials: biomedical engineer


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;15237309*
> Are you currently running Pump>CPU>Rad then? and are wanting to go Pump>Rad>CPU?
> 
> If so i really cant see it making much difference at all really, i wouldn't bother wasting your time.


Yeah I don't really know if you'll see a noticeable difference! Its more of something to think about when you're first putting your loop together


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdon;15237431*
> Haha no the water won't, refer to my post on the previous page about the function of bthe radiator in the system.
> 
> Inb4 armchair physicist: credentials: biomedical engineer


Yeah the rad cools the water but it doesn't make a NOTICEABLE difference whether you cool the water before the res then pump cool water through the loop or if you cool the water before the cpu then pump warm water through the loop. Im saying it will level out because if you go with a the water will overall be cooler but itll be about the same cpu temp as b which has the water slightly warmer throughout the loop. but Im not gonna argue with a biomedical engineer because that means you have extensive real world knowledge of pc water cooling


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdon;15237444*
> Yeah I don't really know if you'll see a noticeable difference! Its more of something to think about when you're first putting your loop together


Yeah i had the same thought when putting my loop together 3 months ago (yes im a noob







)

However the amount of heat energy dumped into the water by the pump is tiny really, i can't see it affecting the water temps by much at all, probably less than 1C.


----------



## The Conman

Have any of you guys tried running engine ice for a coolant?


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Conman;15237557*
> Have any of you guys tried running engine ice for a coolant?


Its been done with other engine additives (water wetter or what not i dont recall specifically engine ice tho), there are reviews around the net


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;15237535*
> Yeah i had the same thought when putting my loop together 3 months ago (yes im a noob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> However the amount of heat energy dumped into the water by the pump is tiny really, i can't see it affecting the water temps by much at all, probably less than 1C.


Yeah the only thing I could see mattering would be with those little mcp355 (little flat-ish pumps) that get SUPER hot without proper cooling!


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_ocho;15237519*
> Yeah the rad cools the water but it doesn't make a NOTICEABLE difference whether you cool the water before the res then pump cool water through the loop or if you cool the water before the cpu then pump warm water through the loop. Im saying it will level out because if you go with a the water will overall be cooler but itll be about the same cpu temp as b which has the water slightly warmer throughout the loop. but Im not gonna argue with a biomedical engineer because that means you have extensive real world knowledge of pc water cooling


you're pretty correct haha no worries







PC water cooling is kinda silly because there isn't a lot of facts behind it, just massive amounts of marketing and MORE IS BETTER!!!! The only thing you can trust are your own experiences, and the pump/rad order doesnt really matter unless you're min/maxing to the fullest haha.


----------



## chinesethunda

Okay then thats what I was asking because I only have a cpu rad and pump

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## Dradien

Hello all! Quick Question about my loop.

I have a Rasa RS360 kit that I've been running for months without issue. My current setup is Pump/Res>Rad>CPU>Pump/Res.

I'm getting a Heatkiller GPU3 69X0 (by the way, anyone have any of these?) for my Radeon 6950. I'm going to stick the 6950 after the Pump/Res and before the Rad (Pump/Res>GPU>Rad>CPU>Pump/Res). Is this ok? I don't really have anywhere else to put it at the moment, so if this is going to mess up somehow, then I'll hold it off until I can order some new tubing.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Thanks Matt26LFC!

Does it matter if I almost need to stretch the tubing to get it on the fitting? I wanna make it as taunt as possible, but I don't know how tight I should make it.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dradien*


Hello all! Quick Question about my loop.

I have a Rasa RS360 kit that I've been running for months without issue. My current setup is Pump/Res>Rad>CPU>Pump/Res.

I'm getting a Heatkiller GPU3 69X0 (by the way, anyone have any of these?) for my Radeon 6950. I'm going to stick the 6950 after the Pump/Res and before the Rad (Pump/Res>GPU>Rad>CPU>Pump/Res). Is this ok? I don't really have anywhere else to put it at the moment, so if this is going to mess up somehow, then I'll hold it off until I can order some new tubing.


I have two of the heatkiller 69x0 blocks and I have to say I really like them. Running at stock I never see load temps above 37C which I think is great.

As for loop order I wouldn't worry about it, it takes a lot of heat energy to affect water temps at 1gpm. I would loop it up using the shortest amount of tubing I could instead of worrying about trying to put certain components in a specific place in the loop.

Hope this helps ya a bit


----------



## boateye

Holy wow! I knew that this loop would be cooler than a Corsair H60 but DAYUM.

Load temp on an H60: ~75C (depending on ambient)

Load temp on RS360 kit (stock fans): *~65C!*










Time to shoot for 4.0+ GHZ!


----------



## Taboo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kdon*


People have done 4.5 on the stock intel cooler so you'll be fine







though I would get a larger rad and use the packed external rad mounts to mount it on the back! Good luck










Thanks for the reply, Sir.







I really want to mount the rad inside my case but the problem is I wont be able to put the fan because it will hit the motherboard i/o, do you think mounting the fan(black) outside is possible, which will be pulling the air inside the case?


----------



## chinesethunda

It should be possible I don't see why not

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taboo;15245866*
> Thanks for the reply, Sir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really want to mount the rad inside my case but the problem is I wont be able to put the fan because it will hit the motherboard i/o, do you think mounting the fan(black) outside is possible, which will be pulling the air inside the case?


Yeah it will work, I did that in my corsair 400r which is practically the same case haha. Just prepare for some added noise since the fans are pushing air into the grill and then through the rad, which causes massive turbulence! Might want to look into a dremel kit to cut out the grill for a fun project and increased performance


----------



## Taboo

awesome! thanks for the reply guys!


----------



## adamski07

is RX360 enough to cool 2 6950s??


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradien;15241625*
> Thanks Matt26LFC!
> 
> Does it matter if I almost need to stretch the tubing to get it on the fitting? I wanna make it as taunt as possible, but I don't know how tight I should make it.


I don't think you want it too taunt, a little slack i think is ok. Measure the distance with something and perhaps add an inch you can always trim a little off if need be. Remember no kinking tubing.

Also whatever tubes your going to put in the res/pump combo you need to make longer so you have enough slack to slide the res out the front of the drive bay to fill it.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamski07;15248427*
> is RX360 enough to cool 2 6950s??


Yes it'll be fine


----------



## adamski07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;15248544*
> Yes it'll be fine


what temps should i expect with this kit?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamski07;15248769*
> what temps should i expect with this kit?


So far neither of my gpu's at stock have gone above 37c this was while playing crysis 2 ultra, using heatkiller blocks.

Your temps may vary depending on ambient temps etc but those temps imo are great temps


----------



## adamski07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;15249156*
> So far neither of my gpu's at stock have gone above 37c this was while playing crysis 2 ultra, using heatkiller blocks.
> 
> Your temps may vary depending on ambient temps etc but those temps imo are great temps


cool.. still deciding whether to WCd GPU and CPU or keep my H80 for CPU and WCd mg GPUs. My h80's doing pretty good with my OCd 4.5. so I was thinkin of water cooling just the GPUs cause I'm reaching 80+ at load. What you think?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamski07;15249389*
> cool.. still deciding whether to WCd GPU and CPU or keep my H80 for CPU and WCd mg GPUs. My h80's doing pretty good with my OCd 4.5. so I was thinkin of water cooling just the GPUs cause I'm reaching 80+ at load. What you think?


I would just WC the whole lot and perhaps sell the h80 and put the cash towards your WCing plans


----------



## Worple

2nd this ^


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Hey guys, I just recently purchased a XSPC X20 750 Pump/res, but it only came with 1 faceplate & its not in the best condition..

Anyone know if I can buy them seperatly anywhere? Thanks!


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*


Hey guys, I just recently purchased a XSPC X20 750 Pump/res, but it only came with 1 faceplate & its not in the best condition..

Anyone know if I can buy them seperatly anywhere? Thanks!










I have my silver one I'v never used if your interested


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;15255169*
> Hey guys, I just recently purchased a XSPC X20 750 Pump/res, but it only came with 1 faceplate & its not in the best condition..
> 
> Anyone know if I can buy them seperatly anywhere? Thanks!


Contact XSPC if your unit isn't in new condition and I am pretty sure they will replace it for you.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;15260012*
> Contact XSPC if your unit isn't in new condition and I am pretty sure they will replace it for you.


I emailed them, but never got a response back.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;15267294*
> I emailed them, but never got a response back.


I would think you should contact the retailer not XSPC. Unless you bought it directly from them?


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15267422*
> I would think you should contact the retailer not XSPC. Unless you bought it directly from them?


Baught it from someone on here. Not 100% sure where he got it from.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;15267499*
> Baught it from someone on here. Not 100% sure where he got it from.


You bought it used?? Well then its used. You need to contact the seller if your not happy with the condition.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15267606*
> You bought it used?? Well then its used. You need to contact the seller if your not happy with the condition.


I did, but I don't think he'll do anything which is why im here asking if theres anywhere I can buy a black faceplate..


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;15267949*
> I did, but I don't think he'll do anything which is why im here asking if theres anywhere I can buy a black faceplate..


Oh my bad I thought you were trying to get a new res or something. I see now you just wanted a faceplate.

I have one thats brand new. I'm sure we could work something out. PM me an offer if you are interested.


----------



## Worple

If you ever have trouble again go here for rasa LINK


----------



## chinesethunda

but he bought it used, would they replace it?


----------



## george_orm

they probable wont replace it but may just give him one, nice blokes or charge him a few pennies, contacting the makers can get u a really good deal on small re
placement bits


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi guys I'm about to join the club, pics soon. Didn't receive my fan screws to mount them to the rad. Hopefully there coming tomorrow. 1 question for you guys, im about to do my loop and have the RX360 Kit. With the duel pump/res do I go, Pump to Rad or Res to Rad.

Is this Right

Res- Rad In -Rad Out - Cpu In - Cpu Out - Gpu In - Gpu Out - Pump.


----------



## IsaacKingsley

Will the RX240 / RS240 radiator fit in the ThermalTake level 10 GT case?

I've been reading and some people say yes, and others have said no :/ i'm confused









I'm new to Watercooling


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*


Hi guys I'm about to join the club, pics soon. Didn't receive my fan screws to mount them to the rad. Hopefully there coming tomorrow. 1 question for you guys, im about to do my loop and have the RX360 Kit. With the duel pump/res do I go, Pump to Rad or Res to Rad.

Is this Right

Res- Rad In -Rad Out - Cpu In - Cpu Out - Gpu In - Gpu Out - Pump.


You can run it any way that it looks good it will be fine


----------



## Worple

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IsaacKingsley*


Will the RX240 / RS240 radiator fit in the ThermalTake level 10 GT case?

I've been reading and some people say yes, and others have said no :/ i'm confused









I'm new to Watercooling


Yes your case will take a 240 rad 
google "ThermalTake level 10 GT with 240 rad" there are many pictures of it


----------



## IsaacKingsley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15275631*
> Yes your case will take a 240 rad
> google "ThermalTake level 10 GT with 240 rad" there are many pictures of it


I had a hunch that the 240 was the rad size







it's just that i'd read on another site that the rs240 was 277mm long

Didn't want to buy it to have it not fit

Thank you for the reply


----------



## Worple

No problem but I hope you post some pics of it when your done or a build log I would love to see it


----------



## IsaacKingsley

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


No problem but I hope you post some pics of it when your done or a build log I would love to see it


Once i get the kit and install it i'll post pics


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15271197*
> If you ever have trouble again go here for rasa LINK


I did email them @ that link.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm;15271874*
> they probable wont replace it but may just give him one, nice blokes or charge him a few pennies, contacting the makers can get u a really good deal on small re
> placement bits


I emailed them twice & still no response









i'd be willing to pay for it & pay for shipping.


----------



## hydropwnics

weee just ordered a RS360 with some accessories, red tubing, t connector for drain etc


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15275586*
> You can run it any way that it looks good it will be fine


Thanks for the quick reply Worple.


----------



## Newwt

Rasa RS360 kit came while I was at work (2nd shift)...yes its 4am and i'm leak testing









the rad is on the inside at the top, and i'm surprised how much room I still have left in my haf932..

some pics, sorry for img quality, from a droid x

disregard the mobo, was just using it to see how long I needed to make my tubes.


----------



## Beens17

Hey guys.

Planing to get the RX360 kit in the coming weeks and i'm making a cart with everything i need for a CPU and 1 GTX560 card.

Here is the current list:









Will also buy Gentle Typhoons 1450rpm and distilled water here at Israel.
btw, should i buy longer screws to be able to connect them to the rad?
(What length?)


----------



## Worple

@ Newwt Looking good bro







. . .I know its just a leak test but you need to try to get the res/pump as high in your case as you can with it still looking good


----------



## Worple

:thumb:Looks good Beens ,There are some long fan screws that will come in the box with your 360 rad they will be in a small piece of cardboard so look good lol some folks have tossed them out thinking it was packing


----------



## Greenback

@beens don't forget some different thermal paste


----------



## Beens17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;15289045*
> @beens don't forget some different thermal paste


I know the MX-2 comes with the kit
Am i wrong?


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beens17;15289138*
> I know the MX-2 comes with the kit
> Am i wrong?


I dont know about now but the stuff that came in the rasa kit back when I got it was . . . junk lol. I use arctic 5


----------



## Beens17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15289158*
> I dont know about now but the stuff that came in the rasa kit back when I got it was . . . junk lol. I use arctic 5


OK thanks.
Anyways, if it doesn't comes with the MX-2 i can get one here at Israel.

My only concern is that there will be something i'm missing and i can't buy the w\c pieces here in Israel.


----------



## Worple

That would suck lol


----------



## Beens17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worple;15289309*
> That would suck lol


Yeah it is.
Missing something small as a barb will delay me for about 2-3 weeks until i get a new one.
And the shipment will even cost more then the barb









Thant's why i'm making sure 100 times i will order everything i need.


----------



## Worple

No problem ask all you want thats why were here to help


----------



## hydropwnics

will an RS360 be able to handle an 1100T cpu & my 6970 or will i need to sneak in another 120 on the back or something for optimal temps


----------



## Worple

Looks like all you need is the 360


----------



## hydropwnics

thanks :O


----------



## LockOn

I have a quick question, I will be building with a haf 942 case and would like to know if the rx or rs 360 will fit with the asus p8z68-v pro motherboard? I am worried that the rx will not fit because of the heatsinks on the board and I do not know if the rs will fit either. For the fans I was planning on 3 magmas Thank you


----------



## Worple

I think you need to get the case and mobo first then get the old measuring tape out.
The RS rad is 121x35x277mm (WxDxH) add 25 more mm for the fans 
Those fans you listed will work but they will make a great deal of noise.
You might want to look for some AP-15s or

  Yates loons


----------



## Newwt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Worple*


@ Newwt Looking good bro







. . .I know its just a leak test but you need to try to get the res/pump as high in your case as you can with it still looking good










I tried but the tubing kept kinking going from the pump to rad :/ and I'd rather not turn my rad around since it looks cleaner the way it is now.


----------



## Worple

Ok go with it







but it does look clean


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LockOn*


I have a quick question, I will be building with a haf 942 case and would like to know if the rx or rs 360 will fit with the asus p8z68-v pro motherboard? I am worried that the rx will not fit because of the heatsinks on the board and I do not know if the rs will fit either. For the fans I was planning on 3 magmas Thank you


I have an rx 360 rad in my HAF X and I had to put the fans on top of the case for them to fit. I would also put them as exhaust instead of as intakes because you don't want the heat to be blown into the case. I have a 990FXA-UD7 board and it's larger than your p8z68-v pro.


----------



## hydropwnics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15295683*
> I have an rx 360 rad in my HAF X and I had to put the fans on top of the case for them to fit. I would also put them as exhaust instead of as intakes because you don't want the heat to be blown into the case. I have a 990FXA-UD7 board and it's larger than your p8z68-v pro.


i was gonna prob run into the problem but i ordered the RS instead of the RX so i had clearance for fans below the rad. I wanted to keep my dual 200s on top to pull more hot air out around the rad. i'll post pics when i get everything installed. parts should be here in a week or so


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hydropwnics;15297137*
> i was gonna prob run into the problem but i ordered the RS instead of the RX so i had clearance for fans below the rad. I wanted to keep my dual 200s on top to pull more hot air out around the rad. i'll post pics when i get everything installed. parts should be here in a week or so


You can always use 12mm fans cant you?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hydropwnics;15297137*
> i was gonna prob run into the problem but i ordered the RS instead of the RX so i had clearance for fans below the rad. I wanted to keep my dual 200s on top to pull more hot air out around the rad. i'll post pics when i get everything installed. parts should be here in a week or so


You really don't want to use those 200s if you're hoping that they'll help pass air through your rad. They won't because air will flow with the path of least resistance. It will just pass around the outside of your rad and won't really help the air passing through it. It's up to you though.


----------



## hydropwnics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15297627*
> You really don't want to use those 200s if you're hoping that they'll help pass air through your rad. They won't because air will flow with the path of least resistance. It will just pass around the outside of your rad and won't really help the air passing through it. It's up to you though.


yea i want them to pull hot air out of my case around the rad. not to pull air through the rad.


----------



## Greenback

put 6 fans on the rad they will move enough air out of the case to not worry about the 200mm, take my word for it if I'm no gaming my rad doesn't get hot the air coming out 1 foot away from me is cold and I sit here drinking tea to keep warm


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Fresh pics of my first time water cooling, with the RASA RX360.








By hairyhampster at 2011-10-14[/IMG]


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn;15305117*
> Fresh pics of my first time water cooling, with the RASA RX360.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


Lookin' good mate!







What kind of dye are you using?

edit: btw I love the RX360


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vcrazy*


Lookin' good mate!







What kind of dye are you using?

edit: btw I love the RX360










The cooling liquid is Koolance Hi Performance Coolant ( LIQ-702 ) was like a premixed. Then had to add some distilled water. 750ml of the Koolance was not enough.


----------



## ramkatral

Well, I am new to the boards... But I am a Rasa RS240 user!

I'll link up some performance/temperature screen shots later on. This was my first open loop setup. Before this, I was a Corsair H50 user.


----------



## mxthunder

well, it started as an RS360 kit, a few additions now:


----------



## k98lemur

Just installed my RS240 kit and got one of the poop pumps. Time to get my RMA on.









  
 You Tube


----------



## BramSLI1

mxthunder said:


> well, it started as an RS360 kit, a few additions now:
> 
> Just to let you know that you don't have to use the chrome looking retention screws for your CPU water block. You can use the Intel retention screws along with your stock back plate. That's what I did and it looks great. I have the same board too


----------



## BramSLI1

k98lemur said:


> Just installed my RS240 kit and got one of the poop pumps. Time to get my RMA on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My pump sounds like that for the first few seconds when I fill it. Try shaking it and see if that quiets it. It really shouldn't be making any audible noise at all.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15315579*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15314404*
> well, it started as an RS360 kit, a few additions now:
> 
> Just to let you know that you don't have to use the chrome looking retention screws for your CPU water block. You can use the Intel retention screws along with your stock back plate. That's what I did and it looks great. I have the same board too
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. Ill have to look in the box and see what they look like. I always thought those things looked a little hokey
Click to expand...


----------



## Worple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k98lemur;15314774*
> Just installed my RS240 kit and got one of the poop pumps. Time to get my RMA on.


Damn sounds like its running with no water in it


----------



## Alex132

Everytime I peak into this thread it makes me so tempted to get an RX360 kit >.>


----------



## Worple

lol


----------



## Alex132

Only problem is they're $300 here :/


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15317785*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15315579*
> 
> Interesting. Ill have to look in the box and see what they look like. I always thought those things looked a little hokey
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of what the Intel retention screws look like with this water block. I just think the black screws look a little better. They go on the same way, you just have to use the stock back plate that came with the board.
Click to expand...


----------



## Flying Donkey

How would a RX240 cool my cpu+gpu?


----------



## k98lemur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15315590*
> My pump sounds like that for the first few seconds when I fill it. Try shaking it and see if that quiets it. It really shouldn't be making any audible noise at all.


Believe me, I shook the case for about an hour trying to make sure it wasn't my fault. I even did a complete 360.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15319767*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15317785*
> 
> Here's a pic of what the Intel retention screws look like with this water block. I just think the black screws look a little better. They go on the same way, you just have to use the stock back plate that came with the board.
> 
> 
> 
> Those definitely look better. I wonder if I could get away with changing them out one at a time without having to do a re-seat.
Click to expand...


----------



## xquisit

is the 360 overkill for an i5/i7? i was planning on getting a h100, thought id stop by and make a post before doing so


----------



## EvilGnomes

ordered mine saturday night. its the rs360 (yea i know not the rx360) but it was in my budget and i can always grab a upgraded rad


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


is the 360 overkill for an i5/i7? i was planning on getting a h100, thought id stop by and make a post before doing so


It's a little bit much for an i7 unless you're doing a heavy overclock, but the nice thing about the 360mm rads is that they have enough headroom to add a GPU without much added heat.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


It's a little bit much for an i7 unless you're doing a heavy overclock, but the nice thing about the 360mm rads is that they have enough headroom to add a GPU without much added heat.










Exactly. If you plan on adding a GPU, the RX360 is great. It's what I use and I am very pleased.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


is the 360 overkill for an i5/i7? i was planning on getting a h100, thought id stop by and make a post before doing so


Theres no such thing as overkill only future proofing


----------



## kmabigtime

I just finished my first water cooled rig, using the rs360 kit. I guess I used the wrong code when adding myself to the list


----------



## BramSLI1

Kmabigtime, that looks great! Very nicely done. I think the Rasa kit and this case go together very well. Congratulations on a great looking rig and welcome to the club!


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Would a XSPC X20 750 pump/res be able to handle all of this? Black Ice Extreme II 240mm rad, Phobya 200mm rad, CPU & 2 GPU's or will I need another pump?

Thanks!


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz;15337395*
> Would a XSPC X20 750 pump/res be able to handle all of this? Black Ice Extreme II 240mm rad, Phobya 200mm rad, CPU & 2 GPU's or will I need another pump?
> 
> Thanks!


You could do it, but that setup would impede your flow a bit and it might affect the life of your pump. And FYI, it's mostly blocks that impede flow, not radiators.


----------



## kmabigtime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15336020*
> Kmabigtime, that looks great! Very nicely done. I think the Rasa kit and this case go together very well. Congratulations on a great looking rig and welcome to the club!


Thanks
Yes, this case & kit work great together. Ive been wanting to put this together after watching TTL from OC3D TV put one together as shown in the OP.
I am very happy with it & get great temps


----------



## MURDoctrine

So I think I'm going to finally move away from my bay res/pump that came with the kit. Would you guys consider 2 pumps with an aftermarket head like bmaverick is selling on here or a MCP655 for a loop consisting of the Rasa CPU block, 2 universal gpu blocks and a RX360 rad with a RX240 being added later?


----------



## scotty___boy

just ordered a rs 360 kit







what kind of overclock would i be looking at on a 1100t ?

thanks


----------



## chinesethunda

Should I run my pump when I drain my loop or no? Also what are some good quality clamps to use?

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


Should I run my pump when I drain my loop or no? Also what are some good quality clamps to use?

Sent from my brain using my fingers


No, and koolance.


----------



## hydropwnics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scotty___boy;15340163*
> just ordered a rs 360 kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what kind of overclock would i be looking at on a 1100t ?
> 
> thanks


id imagine at least 4ghz, I have an RS360 coming in the mail as well for my 1100T it should be here in a day or 2


----------



## chasem1991

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hydropwnics*


id imagine at least 4ghz, I have an RS360 coming in the mail as well for my 1100T it should be here in a day or 2


Waiting for this one.


----------



## scotty___boy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hydropwnics*


id imagine at least 4ghz, I have an RS360 coming in the mail as well for my 1100T it should be here in a day or 2


id like to know how you get on plz


----------



## hydropwnics

yea i'll let u know some extra parts I may need might take up to a week, I ordered a bitspower T fitting to put a drain port in the line and looks like shipping is taking longer than expected. Hopefully I will have everything by Friday to get things installed over the weekend.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scotty___boy*


id like to know how you get on plz










A RASA cooling kit ?? you buy it lol
LINK


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scotty___boy;15340163*
> just ordered a rs 360 kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what kind of overclock would i be looking at on a 1100t ?
> 
> thanks


Have a look at my sig rig specs (Vcore 1.468v) with max load temp after 24 hr run of prime95 was 36c on cores and 56c on CPU socket. This is a CPU only loop.


----------



## Dradien

Do you all use all new tubing when you flush your loops, or is there a secret to get your tubing off without cutting the damn stuff.

I am fairly sure my builds will never leak, but I don't want to buy new tubing every time I wanna redo my loop...idle hands and all that. I have the urge to redo my loop...a lot.


----------



## H3KT1C

Just installed my RX360 yesterday, looking at buying some of those compression fittings and a T fitting for draining since I'm not keen on having to cut the hose every time.

I have the loop config set up like this RES/PUMP->CPU->RAD

Should I have it set up like this RES/PUMP->RAD->CPU


----------



## george_orm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3KT1C*


I have the loop config set up like this RES/PUMP->CPU->RAD

Should I have it set up like this RES/PUMP->RAD->CPU


hey,
when there isn't a 2nd water block in the loop, the order doesn't matter, u just go with the easiest to tube,


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3KT1C*


Just installed my RX360 yesterday, looking at buying some of those compression fittings and a T fitting for draining since I'm not keen on having to cut the hose every time.

I have the loop config set up like this RES/PUMP->CPU->RAD

Should I have it set up like this RES/PUMP->RAD->CPU


I had mine

Res/Pump>GPU>Rad>CPU>Res/Pump for a couple weeks.then I switched it around and went Res/Pump>CPU>Rad>GPU>Res/Pump.And only notice a couple of degrees between the two.Currently addin another Rad in the somewhere.


----------



## scotty___boy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Los Hog*


A RASA cooling kit ?? you buy it lol
LINK


i have







just curious as to what people have been getting out of their 1100t's

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Sandman*


Have a look at my sig rig specs (Vcore 1.468v) with max load temp after 24 hr run of prime95 was 36c on cores and 56c on CPU socket. This is a CPU only loop.


nice OC and temps







is that all your cpu can give or what you just wanted to get ?

id be tempted to push more volts through it and see if i can get 4.4~5 lol


----------



## Nynn

Shin Etsu 7783d Thermal paste, EK thermal pads came in the mail ^_^

Reseatted GPU / CPU, replaced thermal pads. WAY better temps









Pics soon


----------



## idaveop

Hey guys, having an issue with a second Rasa kit I am helping a friend install.

  
 You Tube  



 
It seems to be rattling around the res. I can't tell if it's the pump or just vibrations against the case, but it's way nosier than mine, which is virtually silent. I hope the noise came through on the YouTube video. I am about ready to RMA it, but I know many of you are experts and may have some suggestions. Thanks guys =)


----------



## Los Hog

How long have you been running it? Because sometimes air bubbles as I am sure you know will make that noise till you can bleed it out. But I know XSPC does have good RMA service Link


----------



## idaveop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Los Hog*


How long have you been running it? Because sometimes air bubbles as I am sure you know will make that noise till you can bleed it out. But I know XSPC does have good RMA service Link


Probably around 45 minutes to an hour so far. I will try and rotate the rad and see if I can get more air out, thanks for the suggestion =)


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *idaveop*


Probably around 45 minutes to an hour so far. I will try and rotate the rad and see if I can get more air out, thanks for the suggestion =)


I didn't watch the video so I don't know how noisy yours is, but mine was very noisy and rattly for about a week before it quieted down. Now it is whisper quiet. I wouldn't rush into an RMA until you try it for about a week.


----------



## vcrazy

I wouldn't go longer than a week to RMA it if the noise continues.

Mine was whisper quiet out of the box once the pump was filled with water. Hope you get a good one


----------



## evil jerry

I about to order this kit, I was gonna ask how yall like it but I see a ton of members to this group.

I don't know if it's been asked before but there is like 1042 pages of post currently lol.

I plan on buying this kit and buying the FrozenQ Fusion Dual Bay Helix Reservoir at the same time.

I've never water cooled so i'm a noob to this stuff so bare with me if I might sound stupid to some of this.

The pump apears it's one piece with the XSPC Kit, Can I remove the Pump from the reservoir and run it without it? Will I notice any increased noise with it outside the Reservoir?

Any Harm if I run both Reservoirs? Will the pump be able to hand that much water in reserve? Will I have enough water pressure?

Thanks in advance


----------



## WizrdSleevz

mine is starting to do this too


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *evil jerry*


I about to order this kit, I was gonna ask how yall like it but I see a ton of members to this group.

I don't know if it's been asked before but there is like 1042 pages of post currently lol.

I plan on buying this kit and buying the FrozenQ Fusion Dual Bay Helix Reservoir at the same time.

I've never water cooled so i'm a noob to this stuff so bare with me if I might sound stupid to some of this.

The pump apears it's one piece with the XSPC Kit, Can I remove the Pump from the reservoir and run it without it? Will I notice any increased noise with it outside the Reservoir?

Any Harm if I run both Reservoirs? Will the pump be able to hand that much water in reserve? Will I have enough water pressure?

Thanks in advance


You can't remove the pump. You can run both reservoirs, the amount of water in the loop is a non-factor. It's not a pressurized system, so that's a non-factor also.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Probably not the best place to post this, but i dont feel like starting a new thread









What do you think would work better with Delta fans? XSPC EX240 or Black Ice Extreme II?

Read that the new EX Series rads are bettre than the RX & their smaller.


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorsci;15360546*
> You can't remove the pump. You can run both reservoirs, the amount of water in the loop is a non-factor. It's not a pressurized system, so that's a non-factor also.


Thankyou Added Rep+


----------



## The_ocho

A lil update and a new addition to the family, Finally got my HD5850 installed now you can see why I left so much slack in the return line when I first built the loop. I must say the back plate makes this thing look sexy. I'm usually not a fan of the whole bling bling thing with mods, I hate chrome on cars and what not but its a nice offset to my blacked out computer. Oh and I got some new tubing coming, I should have listened when everybody said the kit tubing sucks, It only took 3 days for it to get as cloudy and dingy as it is now. but anyway the new tubing is red and im going to swap out the blue led in the res for some red ones I have then it'll all match the PSU, and that was the plan all along. I suppose I'll just put some tape over the stupid phase lights on the mobo. 
















still got some work on cable management, I'm not really going to worry about it till I get my second card installed and finalize the loop. Don't mind that fan on the bottom its just there because I was messing around


----------



## iced00d

Sorry it took me so long to get back with pixs. Still trying to catch up on my 28hr Rift gaming fest over the weekend







I went with the RX240 kit with the rad mounted on top and a DD for my 560 TI. Unfort i was not able to mount the rad inside the case, but I think it turned out OK. Kinda unique if you ask me. So far my temp has gone down roughly between 6-9'c which is a huge improvement. Running Prime95 I was getting about 46-47'c on max load and with this guy i'm barly breaking 40'c. Only thing I've added is a crystalfontz CFA-35 on the front. -= Enjoy =- (for some reason image shack is being a bung-hole so until i can find another hosting site I'll have to post links







.. sorry about that.. )

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/1000013xs.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/1000014i.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/255/1000015b.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/1000016w.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/1000017j.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/1000018x.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/1000019n.jpg/


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iced00d*


Sorry it took me so long to get back with pixs. Still trying to catch up on my 28hr Rift gaming fest over the weekend







I went with the RX240 kit with the rad mounted on top and a DD for my 560 TI. Unfort i was not able to mount the rad inside the case, but I think it turned out OK. Kinda unique if you ask me. So far my temp has gone down roughly between 6-9'c which is a huge improvement. Running Prime95 I was getting about 46-47'c on max load and with this guy i'm barly breaking 40'c. Only thing I've added is a crystalfontz CFA-35 on the front. -= Enjoy =- (for some reason image shack is being a bung-hole so until i can find another hosting site I'll have to post links







.. sorry about that.. )

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/1000013xs.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/1000014i.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/255/1000015b.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/1000016w.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/1000017j.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/1000018x.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/1000019n.jpg/


Awesome Lanboy, i'm kinda partial to the case. I got some insite now to how my case will look with some of the xspc hardware









PS: ocho that vga waterblock is the hotness.


----------



## The_ocho

on a complete side note but this is just how my mind works, have you all ever noticed that when we install LEDs in out RES we are technically Water cooling the LEDs. the plexi of the res being the block and the water inside obviously being the water. does this mean we can over volt our LEDs for a lil bit longer before they burn out? haha

I HAVE WATER COOLED A LED!

INB4NAYSAYER


----------



## ginger_nuts

Can someone help me, can I fit my XR240 kit inside my case?

If so is there any modding needing to be done?

Picture's would be most appreciated!!!

Thanks


----------



## BZ1891

I'm about to order a gpu waterblock for my 6950 but had a quick question, the water block will have the standard 1/4 " threads and I'm going to be using Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Clear Tubing -7/16in. ID x 5/8in.

So what type and size barbs would I need? as the page where the gpu block is listed gives an option of either 1/2" or 3/8"?

here's a link to one of the blocks i'm looking at.

http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk...tured_product=


----------



## Taylorsci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*


Probably not the best place to post this, but i dont feel like starting a new thread









What do you think would work better with Delta fans? XSPC EX240 or Black Ice Extreme II?

Read that the new EX Series rads are bettre than the RX & their smaller.


Both will benefit from high speed fans, but the Black Ice is a better radiator.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BZ1891*


I'm about to order a gpu waterblock for my 6950 but had a quick question, the water block will have the standard 1/4 " threads and I'm going to be using Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Clear Tubing -7/16in. ID x 5/8in.

So what type and size barbs would I need? as the page where the gpu block is listed gives an option of either 1/2" or 3/8"?

here's a link to one of the blocks i'm looking at.

http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk...tured_product=


1/2 barbs that will make a good seal with your 7/16 tubing


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*


Can someone help me, can I fit my XR240 kit inside my case?

If so is there any modding needing to be done?

Picture's would be most appreciated!!!

Thanks


I seen this guy do it here at the forums try to pm him asking anything you need. Good to talk to someone who has done it as to those that guess 








http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-advanced.html


----------



## kmabigtime

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_ocho*


I suppose I'll just put some tape over the stupid phase lights on the mobo.


There is an option in BIOS to turn the phase lights off on my MSI P67 board. You may also have that option. It is in the Green Power section, second option down if my memory serves me. I hope this helps.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kmabigtime*


There was an option in BIOS to turn the phase lights off on my MSI P67 board. You may also have that option.


Ah sweet thanks Ill check for it
+1


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog;15365853*
> 1/2 barbs that will make a good seal with your 7/16 tubing


Thanks, got them ordered


----------



## Evilcraft

Will be installing my rs360 tonight after work will post some pictures of my system after my leak test

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## hydropwnics

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evilcraft*


Will be installing my rs360 tonight after work will post some pictures of my system after my leak test

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


im installing my rs360 tomorrow









Also is it necessary to put a T-Line in, I ordered a bitspower T-Fitting and 3 extra 1/2" Barbs and I know it will make it a bit easier to drain but I feel like it wouldnt be very visually appealing, I can just screw a barb into the res fill port with a long piece of tubing and flip the case upside down right?


----------



## The_ocho

Bump for the best club on OCN

Got some new tubing today


----------



## hydropwnics

does it matter what order my rasa kit loop goes in? does it matter if it goes pump to CPU or rad to CPU?

got my CPU block/rad mounted tonight, gotta getting the pump/res in tomrrow as well as tubing and then start the leak test, i'll post pics when its done.


----------



## The_ocho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hydropwnics;15404777*
> does it matter what order my rasa kit loop goes in? does it matter if it goes pump to CPU or rad to CPU?
> 
> got my CPU block/rad mounted tonight, gotta getting the pump/res in tomrrow as well as tubing and then start the leak test, i'll post pics when its done.


If its a CPU only loop it doesnt really matter, I run PUMP/RAD/CPU/GPU/RES

That way the CPU gets the coolest possible water.


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hydropwnics;15393352*
> Also is it necessary to put a T-Line in, I ordered a bitspower T-Fitting and 3 extra 1/2" Barbs and I know it will make it a bit easier to drain but I feel like it wouldnt be very visually appealing, I can just screw a barb into the res fill port with a long piece of tubing and flip the case upside down right?


It's not necessary but it can make life easier. If you can manouver the case so that the res is the lowest point in the loop then it's perfectly reasonable to drain it that way though.

I've drained my loop using a syphon into the res, similar idea. That only worked because the base of the res is the lowest point in my loop though (no GPU blocks). Even with GPU blocks, as long as you can move the case so the lowest point in the loop is where you drain from then there is no need for a T-line.

Yet another approach some people use is buy a couple of those leak free tubing splitters and disconnect one line, connect to a drain tube and drain out that way.


----------



## H3KT1C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm;15351368*
> hey,
> when there isn't a 2nd water block in the loop, the order doesn't matter, u just go with the easiest to tube,


Okay then, thanks very much for that, I was thinking that maybe the pump would heat the water a little and distance the water will have to travel wouldn't be as cold as what it was when it first comes from the rad. I'll be cooling the GPU shortly and read it's best to go from RES/PUMP->RAD->CPU->GPU


----------



## H3KT1C

I just realised that it doesn't make a difference in temp under load or idle if I turn my rad fans off, this just doesn't seem right.


----------



## FaceBook

Just finished my build. I love the xspc rasa kit !

Sleeved everything, including the tubes.









*BEFORE*










*AFTER*


----------



## BZ1891

I'm having a slight issue with the rx360 rad making lots of noise like water pumping in and it's quite loud, I've made a thread here:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1148659-watercooling-loop-issue.html


----------



## BZ1891

Well i got my gpu block setup but I'm having an issue with the external radiator mount, the one that came with the rx360 kit doesn't seem to work well with 6 fans in push/pull and in the end I've had to take the radiator off the mount, so I'm trying to find another mount that can house the rx360, it needs to be vertical and I had the current mount fitted using a 120mm fan space at the back of case. Any ideas on what would do the job?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BZ1891;15406358*
> Well i got my gpu block setup but I'm having an issue with the external radiator mount, the one that came with the rx360 kit doesn't seem to work well with 6 fans in push/pull and in the end I've had to take the radiator off the mount, so I'm trying to find another mount that can house the rx360, it needs to be vertical and I had the current mount fitted using a 120mm fan space at the back of case. Any ideas on what would do the job?


Might be something in here that can help you Linky


----------



## Los Hog

Six fans on a RX360 rad ???? wow thats some fans







I dont see many people do a push, pull on type of rad


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC;15406444*
> Might be something in here that can help you Linky


Thanks mate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog;15406502*
> Six fans on a RX360 rad ???? wow thats some fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont see many people do a push, pull on type of rad


Yeah I'm conidering taking the extra three fans off, probably has little effect on an rx360 and just more hassle than it's worth it seems.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BZ1891;15407747*
> Thanks mate.
> 
> Yeah I'm conidering taking the extra three fans off, probably has little effect on an rx360 and just more hassle than it's worth it seems.


Let me know if it makes your temps go up please


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Los Hog*


Let me know if it makes your temps go up please


Ok will let you know if I remove the fans.


----------



## WeirdHarold

So I just took a serious look at what I was planning for my Rasa kit and fan set up and did a fan count and came up with 11 fans packed into a Corsair 800D case. Here's what I was thinking the triple 120 rad at top with push / pull set up(6 120mm fans), rear 140mm, bottom 140mm, hard drive fan 140mm, then aftermarket side panel window from Performance-PCs with 2 140mm fans. Yep I counted right that's 11, that might be a bit over kill LoL


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


So I just took a serious look at what I was planning for my Rasa kit and fan set up and did a fan count and came up with 11 fans packed into a Corsair 800D case. Here's what I was thinking the triple 120 rad at top with push / pull set up(6 120mm fans), rear 140mm, bottom 140mm, hard drive fan 140mm, then aftermarket side panel window from Performance-PCs with 2 140mm fans. Yep I counted right that's 11, that might be a bit over kill LoL










It'll get a bit noisy


----------



## hydropwnics

So I got my RASA RS360 installed in my HAF-X, this is my 1st time watercooling a computer. Temps right now are 16C at Idle with stock clocks, I'll update post later with OC load temps etc. I used a Shin-Etsu TIM that is suppose to take ~100 hours to burn in as well. But for now here are so photos.


----------



## Matt26LFC

^^ Nice build dude, now I don't know much about AMD temps but unless its really cold in your room 16c seems unlikely. What are your ambients?


----------



## hydropwnics

its prob 60F in here after running BFBC2 for a while core temps went up to like 26C. I'm going by core temps which are ~10C lower than what it shows for CPU temp in hardware monitor. with my H70 I idled at about 24C core.


----------



## Los Hog

Nice build hydropwnics love the look of those AP-15s up there


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*


^^ Nice build dude, now I don't know much about AMD temps but unless its really cold in your room 16c seems unlikely. What are your ambients?


Amd chips always show some bogus temps. Cpu temps is what matters.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well I just took the first big plunge toward water cooling everyone of my future computer builds ! I was on Performance-PCs.com yesterday and noticed they had the Little Devil V8 Water Cooling case in the scratch and Dent area saying it had a small dent on the front panel. There was a picture and it doesn't look like the dent is that bad and it's on the corner of one of the fan mounting areas so could be covered with a fan grill/filter or something. Normally it's a $700 case and the slightly dented one was $300. It interested me but I just kinda was like Na, well it was still there today so I ordered it







I sure hope it turns out to be a good thing cause I was kinda saving for my new Bulldozer Rig







Here is the link to the now sold out scratch and dent page for the case it's hard to see the dent in the pic but it's on the lower of the 2 front fan grills, let me know what ya all think?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=32406

Edit :Sorry They removed the product page Link is broken !


----------



## t-ramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


Well I just took the first big plunge toward water cooling everyone of my future computer builds ! I was on Performance-PCs.com yesterday and noticed they had the Little Devil V8 Water Cooling case in the scratch and Dent area saying it had a small dent on the front panel. There was a picture and it doesn't look like the dent is that bad and it's on the corner of one of the fan mounting areas so could be covered with a fan grill/filter or something. Normally it's a $700 case and the slightly dented one was $300.


Nice! There's actually a thread about your case.


----------



## Los Hog

Nice find


----------



## jedi304

Still an awesome case!


----------



## WeirdHarold

I don't think I will have too much trouble working the dent out, I'll let ya all know it shipped today so should be here in about a week. I would have loved to spring for overnight shipping but that would have been another $150!


----------



## spRICE

Yeah just take out the panel, put it between a couple boards, and put it in a vice.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;15443758*
> Yeah just take out the panel, put it between a couple boards, and put it in a vice.


That may not work if the case is constructed the way that I think it is, I'll know on Friday as the shipping info says it will be here by the end of day Friday.


----------



## k98lemur

Just wanted to say that after I contacted XSPC about my Rasa750 pump noise, they shipped me a new one. Took approx 5 days and they didn't even ask me to send the old one back!


----------



## Edbert

Okay, I'm obviously new here so take it easy on me. I'm thinking I'll cross post this to the lanboy thread as well unless that will get me into trouble









You may or may not be aware that the Lanboy chassis can be configured and reconfigured into a staggering number of arrangements, the total number was over 30,000 IIRC. So some of the problems I'm having is simply making up my own mind of where I want to mount stuff, regarding that, now would be a good time to ask; does it matter if the res is installed at the top or the bottom for performance and/or functionality?

Regardless of WHERE I mount the res I'm having a problem with mounting it in my Antec Lanboy. I snapped a few pics last night when messing with the mockup so for the sake of this post ignore the location and the fact that it is actually upside down in at least one picture. The problem is the mounting holes WILL NOT line up with my mounting brackets regardless of how I move it around. To illustrate...









The res is held up from underneath in order to show that the brass fittings in the side of the res do not line up with the holes in the mounting bracket. Note there's no gap (gap by Lanboy standards I mean, this thing has opening all over the place) below the blue ray burner or above the toolbox at the bottom.









If I actually mount the res I get a huge gap above the res and an even bigger one below since I had to actually remove the toolbox.









Same thing with the black plate removed for clarity. It is upside down as part of my failed sanity check, regardless of being installed right side up or not it simply insists on using up three 5.25 bays since those holes are apparently drilled in the wrong location.

===============

So what gives? I cannot see how XSPC could have screwed up my kit during the manufacturing process, so I do not think I got a defective one. I have seen the Rasa 750 installed in a Lanboy before, but it was not clear if the owner had the same problem or not.

Can someone tell me what I am missing here?


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k98lemur;15454279*
> Just wanted to say that after I contacted XSPC about my Rasa750 pump noise, they shipped me a new one. Took approx 5 days and they didn't even ask me to send the old one back!


Xspc has great customer support from what I've seen.

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.


----------



## hydropwnics

so I currently have an RS360 kit installed running on just my CPU - Im debating getting 2 blocks for both of my 6970s. Im assuming a single 360 RAD is not enough for dual GPU and CPU. Does the RASA pump have enough power to handle a second 360 RAD and dual GPU blocks? If not Im debating ordering a second RASA360 kit and running it through the GPUs, Id rather not do that tho.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hydropwnics*


so I currently have an RS360 kit installed running on just my CPU - Im debating getting 2 blocks for both of my 6970s. Im assuming a single 360 RAD is not enough for dual GPU and CPU. Does the RASA pump have enough power to handle a second 360 RAD and dual GPU blocks? If not Im debating ordering a second RASA360 kit and running it through the GPUs, Id rather not do that tho.


A rx360 will cool it and the pump will handle it.
I have two loops I love it








Sounds like you have been bitten by the waterbug lol


----------



## hydropwnics

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Los Hog*


A rx360 will cool it and the pump will handle it.
I have two loops I love it








Sounds like you have been bitten by the waterbug lol


wait so I can throw a second 360 and GPUs in the same loop on the same pump?


----------



## Los Hog

Sorry I see you have 2 gpus now and want to add a 3rd my bad







. . . Well three gpus maybe to much
You can change to THIS res and put THIS pump in the res. That will do the job


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hydropwnics*


wait so I can throw a second 360 and GPUs in the same loop on the same pump?


If you cool your GPUs in parallel it will ease the strain on your pump a little bit. As for another rad they offer almost no restriction now at all. You should be fine, though you may wanna wait until the EX360 reviews are in, if they perform aswell as XSPC say they do you can run all that off one rad.

I run an i7 930 @ 4.2Ghz HT off and two 6950s @ 1010Mhz Core 1425 Mem @ 1.265v no probs on my RX360


----------



## hydropwnics

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Los Hog*


Sorry I see you have 2 gpus now and want to add a 3rd my bad







. . . Well three gpus maybe to much
You can change to THIS res and put THIS pump in the res. That will do the job


not adding a 3rd card sticking with 2







i just didnt know if u meant a whole 2nd loop or one loop was okay


----------



## Los Hog

OHH ok yea Do like Matt said and run them in parallel the rads are a no factor


----------



## hydropwnics

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Los Hog*


OHH ok yea Do like Matt said and run them in parallel the rads are a no factor


k cause I was thinking I could hang another 360 on the back of my case and run it all in one big loop. whether I wana spend ~350 on all this is a diff question


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hydropwnics*


whether I wana spend ~350 on all this is a diff question










Yea I hear you. Money takes the fun out of life


----------



## mironccr345

Hey guys, I switched out the RS360 for an RX360 and installed the new RayStorm cpu block. Hope you guys like?
































Here's the RayStorm all light up....I dont keep the lights on though. Just thought I'd show you guys what it looks like with the lights on.


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

very nice micronccr...

To all others, would this pump handle an EX480 + two universal GPU blocks? I am thinking the Rasa GPU blocks right now, but am not positive yet. I know the EX doesnt have much in the way of reviews yet, but I saw the EX480 for $80 on performance-pcs... This is just about impulse purchase territory for a 4x120mm rad


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r*


very nice micronccr...

To all others, would this pump handle an EX480 + two universal GPU blocks? I am thinking the Rasa GPU blocks right now, but am not positive yet. I know the EX doesnt have much in the way of reviews yet, but I saw the EX480 for $80 on performance-pcs... This is just about impulse purchase territory for a 4x120mm rad


I don't see why not. Plenty of people have been running a rad, 2 GPU blocks, and even a CPU block as well with this kit.

That seems like a pretty good price for the EX, if it does live up to performance expectations, even if it's only on par w/ RX series $80 for a 480, isn't bad at all.


----------



## Beens17

Whoo hoo!
Just submitted an order!
My rasa rx360 kit is on the way!

Really hope it won't take more then 3-4 weeks to recieve it.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Beens17*


Really hope it won't take more then 3-4 weeks to recieve it.


Were you from and were did you get it from ?


----------



## Beens17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Los Hog*


Were you from and were did you get it from ?


I'm from Israel, it will most probably get stuck a bit at the customs.
Ordered from sidewindercomputers.


----------



## czin125

Do you ever have to drain the loop?? And how do you assemble that anyways? any guides?


----------



## Los Hog

Alot of people but a T-Fitting in the lowest line in the loop and add in a drain line and Drain port


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *czin125*


Do you ever have to drain the loop?? And how do you assemble that anyways? any guides?


Yes every once in a while. I dont really know how I am going to this time, but I will add a fill and drain line when I add my next rad and GPU blocks... Some T-fittings and fill ports are all you need as far as I know. Just make sure your drain line is sealed up good so you dont leak.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Los Hog*

Alot of people but a T-Fitting in the lowest line in the loop and in a drain line and Drain port


beat me.


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys what do you think is a good price to sell the rasa pump/res for? It has about 3-4 weeks of use. Works perfect with barbs. Replaced it with a 655. They go for about 55-60 I'm thinking like 40 shipped?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout;15485723*
> Hey guys what do you think is a good price to sell the rasa pump/res for? It has about 3-4 weeks of use. Works perfect with barbs. Replaced it with a 655. They go for about 55-60 I'm thinking like 40 shipped?


Yeah that sounds fair to me, if all I was looking for was a pump/res I'd be willing to pay that.


----------



## WeirdHarold

So I'm sitting here impatiently waiting for that Scratch and Dent Little Devil PC-V8 case I ordered on Monday to get here it's out for delivery Here's hoping the dent is as minor as it looked in the pics and that it does come with the hardware the case originally came with as it will cost me $80 to have LDcooling ship it to me from Europe and might have import charges as well, oh well still great savings on an expensive case that will hold 3 quad 120mm rads!


----------



## Boyboyd

Quick question.

My molex connector for the pump fell apart. Is the pump a 5v pump or a 12v one?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;15487088*
> Quick question.
> 
> My molex connector for the pump fell apart. Is the pump a 5v pump or a 12v one?


X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, the case arrived about an hour ago and the dent was a bit more than from what you could tell in the pics on Performance-PCs website. However I was able to get most of it out now you can only see any damage if you're looking really close. It did not come with the hardware, which would have included the case feet and the hard drive mounting screws and anti vibration washers. I'll be able to get both of those from Frozencpu for about $30, so for just under $400 I now have a $700 water cooling case. All in all I think it was well worth grabbing a scratch and dent item to save some money


----------



## BramSLI1

WeirdHarold, you're going to have to keep us posted on how it all goes together. I can't wait to see a build log and the finished rig.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


WeirdHarold, you're going to have to keep us posted on how it all goes together. I can't wait to see a build log and the finished rig.


I will do, but as I work full time and have other things on my plate it will be a slow process. Not to mention as this will be my first time wading into the water cooling world (not including the H50) I don't want to rush things. First things first I need to get case feet as it didn't come with any, then I may do some custom painting on the inside of the case not sure yet. But I will start posting pics as I start to do things.


----------



## Boyboyd

First time I've ever had a leak during leak testing. One of the compression fittings had come loose. Fortunately there was only about 100ml of water in the tubes, and the compression fittings only leaked onto the bottom of the case.

All is well now though.


----------



## Newwt

FINALLY got the rest of my parts in, and my baby is up and running. What can i say the RS360 kit is amazing









30mins of prime - 4ghz



I had fans at 50% the first 15mins and it hit 44c, then I cranked them up to 100% and it droped to 42/43c.

as per sig, I'm at 4.2 now and temps max out at 46c under load


----------



## Los Hog

Congrats bro


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newwt;15499305*
> FINALLY got the rest of my parts in, and my baby is up and running. What can i say the RS360 kit is amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 30mins of prime - 4ghz
> 
> 
> 
> I had fans at 50% the first 15mins and it hit 44c, then I cranked them up to 100% and it droped to 42/43c.
> 
> as per sig, I'm at 4.2 now and temps max out at 46c under load


Awesome temps there. 4.2 is pretty good for a 6 core. It was pretty good for a quad i7 9xx too.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


WeirdHarold, you're going to have to keep us posted on how it all goes together. I can't wait to see a build log and the finished rig.


Ok on further investigation I've found that the Little Devil PC-V8 case seems to have been used before and was not handled gingerly







all in all it still appears to be a great deal. So far the only major problem I've run into it that all the side panels are held on via a number of allen head screws well over half of the heads were rounded out so I had to get out the trusty rotary tool and a cutting disc and cut a notch in the head of most of the screws so I could remove them with a screw driver.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


Ok on further investigation I've found that the Little Devil PC-V8 case seems to have been used before and was not handled gingerly







all in all it still appears to be a great deal. So far the only major problem I've run into it that all the side panels are held on via a number of allen head screws well over half of the heads were rounded out so I had to get out the trusty rotary tool and a cutting disc and cut a notch in the head of most of the screws so I could remove them with a screw driver.


Really sorry to hear about that. I hate it when I buy something that seems to be in worse shape then it was advertised. It still sounds like a pretty good deal though. For your sake I hope you don't find that anything else is wrong with it.


----------



## Los Hog

A good dremel and some duct tape you can fix anything


----------



## Vodkacooling

I ordered the RS240! 136 shipped for the kit! I sold my case, 8gb of Ram and my H50, then added cash and bought a Corsair 400R and RS240.

I know its a little late to ask, but, will it fit in the 400R? I assume it will because the H100 does.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15500655*
> Really sorry to hear about that. I hate it when I buy something that seems to be in worse shape then it was advertised. It still sounds like a pretty good deal though. For your sake I hope you don't find that anything else is wrong with it.


Na I had it completely apart and the dent it the only real long term issue but since the main purpose is ti hold rads I'm not that worried about it. Should still make cooling my stuff alot of fun 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15509450*
> Na I had it completely apart and the dent it the only real long term issue but since the main purpose is ti hold rads I'm not that worried about it. Should still make cooling my stuff alot of fun
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I bet they used the case for test setups or something. If the screws were all rounded.


----------



## Vodkacooling

Question:

I ordered an RS240 but have also been thinking about adding a Second radiator to the kit. The second radiator would be a 120mm one.

Would this benefit me in any way when cooling the CPU? or would it be a waste of money?

Also, what kind would I have to buy?

Im really new to water cooling.


----------



## Boyboyd

Does anyone know the thread size is on the RASA block? I'm looking at getting some 45 degree compression fittings.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*


Does anyone know the thread size is on the RASA block? I'm looking at getting some 45 degree compression fittings.


Its believe its G 1/4 like everything else.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boyboyd*


does anyone know the thread size is on the rasa block? I'm looking at getting some 45 degree compression fittings.


g 1/4"


----------



## spRICE

Hey guys can anybody tell me how to use the Intel screws for mounting on AMD?


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


Hey guys can anybody tell me how to use the Intel screws for mounting on AMD?


Just screw the 4 screws through the plate into the four threaded holes on the backplate. First remove the 4 screws and plastic bracket already on it.

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spRICE*


Hey guys can anybody tell me how to use the Intel screws for mounting on AMD?


Here's what you have to do. It's pretty simple really. You need to use the original back plate that came with your motherboard and then just use the Intel screws the way the instructions tell you to. So instead of using the Intel back plate just use the one that came with your motherboard.


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ramkatral*


Just screw the 4 screws through the plate into the four threaded holes on the backplate. First remove the 4 screws and plastic bracket already on it.

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


Here's what you have to do. It's pretty simple really. You need to use the original back plate that came with your motherboard and then just use the Intel screws the way the instructions tell you to. So instead of using the Intel back plate just use the one that came with your motherboard.


Wow, that's so simple! Thanks guys








(for the record, I would have figured that out myself if I wanted to disassemble my system.







)


----------



## ramkatral

No prob, though I just did the screws through the back w/o a backplate at all. I kinda like the way it looks that way is all.

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;15512654*
> g 1/4"


Excellent, thanks.


----------



## infected rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling;15511130*
> Question:
> 
> I ordered an RS240 but have also been thinking about adding a Second radiator to the kit. The second radiator would be a 120mm one.
> 
> Would this benefit me in any way when cooling the CPU? or would it be a waste of money?
> 
> Also, what kind would I have to buy?
> 
> Im really new to water cooling.


For purely a CPU loop the RS240 is ample. If you wanted to add a GPU you would want to start thinking about adding another radiator.


----------



## Mangyrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling;15511130*
> Question:
> 
> I ordered an RS240 but have also been thinking about adding a Second radiator to the kit. The second radiator would be a 120mm one.
> 
> Would this benefit me in any way when cooling the CPU? or would it be a waste of money?
> 
> Also, what kind would I have to buy?
> 
> Im really new to water cooling.


For just the CPU it would be a waste in my opinion.

The RS240 dose a good job of cooling the CPU alone, if your going for lower temps them changing the stock fans out would be a better investment.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling;15511130*
> Question:
> 
> I ordered an RS240 but have also been thinking about adding a Second radiator to the kit. The second radiator would be a 120mm one.
> 
> Would this benefit me in any way when cooling the CPU? or would it be a waste of money?
> 
> Also, what kind would I have to buy?
> 
> Im really new to water cooling.


with out knowing what cpu you are cooling and what oc it's hard to say







if it's a 1366 you you probably would benefit


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling*


Question:

I ordered an RS240 but have also been thinking about adding a Second radiator to the kit. The second radiator would be a 120mm one.

Would this benefit me in any way when cooling the CPU? or would it be a waste of money?

Also, what kind would I have to buy?

Im really new to water cooling.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mangyrat*


For just the CPU it would be a waste in my opinion.

The RS240 dose a good job of cooling the CPU alone, if your going for lower temps them changing the stock fans out would be a better investment.


I agree the 240 should have no real problem cooling any cpu currently on the market! Also for better temps getting your hands on better fans would also be a good idea, but make sure that you get fans that create high static pressure like the Noctura fans as those fans do better when pushing air through something like a radiator. However something to always keep in mind in reference to your temps is your ambient temps, you will only see your cooling temps to within a couple of degrees (usually above) your ambient temp as that will be the temp of the air passing through your radiator. Hope this helps and good luck


----------



## Los Hog

And always go RX were it will fit


----------



## mastrflexx

I just invested in the RX360 kit with some more tubing and a waterblock for me GTX580.

This will be the first time I've watercooled anything so it's going to be very interesting to build when I do it in a week or so time.


----------



## Los Hog

You will love it when its all done







Just make sure you take you time setting it up and everything will be okay


----------



## mastrflexx

Cool thanks for the support.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling*


Question:

I ordered an RS240 but have also been thinking about adding a Second radiator to the kit. The second radiator would be a 120mm one.

Would this benefit me in any way when cooling the CPU? or would it be a waste of money?

Also, what kind would I have to buy?


As others have stated, it's really not necessary for one CPU. Not sure which CPU you are using, but for reference w/ my 2500k, and the RS240 I get:

That's with 2 YL medium fans pushing air, EVGA Frostbite TIM, and a mild 4.5ghz OC on my 2500k. I have some shin-etsu, and 2 more YL fans I got in the mail yesterday, I just haven't made time to install them. I can post my push/pull temps later if you are interested.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastrflexx*


I just invested in the RX360 kit with some more tubing and a waterblock for me GTX580.

This will be the first time I've watercooled anything so it's going to be very interesting to build when I do it in a week or so time.


Nice, I'm sure you will love it, good luck putting it together, take your time, and have fun. Make sure you flush out that rad good before installing it.

Which waterblock for your GTX580 did you go with?

I may eventually put mine under h20, I have a universal GPU block I could use, or possibly get a full block. It's cold in the winter where I live, so for now I'm enjoying it being a space heater









[edit]
The tubing I got with the kit only lasted a few weeks before plasticizing or whatever. I ordered some black PrimoFlex 7/16" ID tubing, here it is installed (sorry for the shotty cell phone pic):








I don't have a window or anything, so I just wanted a clean, black look. I suppose I should have thought of that before I ordered RAM with huge red heatsinks, not that I can see them with my side panel on.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127;15544527*
> I may eventually put mine under h20, I have a universal GPU block I could use, or possibly get a full block. It's cold in the winter where I live, so for now I'm enjoying it being a space heater


Watercooling your GPU will heat up your room even more. It was one of the best upgrades i ever did for my computer. It never goes above 40 now.

Got my fan controller installed, wish i'd done it sooner. My rig is now almost silent apart from the pump and HDD seeking occasionally.


----------



## mastrflexx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127;15544527*
> As others have stated, it's really not necessary for one CPU. Not sure which CPU you are using, but for reference w/ my 2500k, and the RS240 I get:
> 
> That's with 2 YL medium fans pushing air, EVGA Frostbite TIM, and a mild 4.5ghz OC on my 2500k. I have some shin-etsu, and 2 more YL fans I got in the mail yesterday, I just haven't made time to install them. I can post my push/pull temps later if you are interested.
> 
> Nice, I'm sure you will love it, good luck putting it together, take your time, and have fun. Make sure you flush out that rad good before installing it.
> 
> Which waterblock for your GTX580 did you go with?
> 
> I may eventually put mine under h20, I have a universal GPU block I could use, or possibly get a full block. It's cold in the winter where I live, so for now I'm enjoying it being a space heater
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [edit]
> The tubing I got with the kit only lasted a few weeks before plasticizing or whatever. I ordered some black PrimoFlex 7/16" ID tubing, here it is installed (sorry for the shotty cell phone pic):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a window or anything, so I just wanted a clean, black look. I suppose I should have thought of that before I ordered RAM with huge red heatsinks, not that I can see them with my side panel on.


I went with a EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC580 GTX+ Acetal. My radiator will be mounted externally so hopefully it will cool them both enough as they're both overclocked.


----------



## WeirdHarold

You all have got to check this out it's a water cooling system made from crap around the house, including what looks like a mayo jar









http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Made-PC-water-cooling/


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastrflexx;15546920*
> I went with a EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC580 GTX+ Acetal. My radiator will be mounted externally so hopefully it will cool them both enough as they're both overclocked.


Cool man, that's a nice looking block. I had a thinner 360 rad than the RX, and it chilled both my gtx470, and my CPU. The second gen Fermi cards run a little cooler than the first gen ones, so I think you should be good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15547696*
> You all have got to check this out it's a water cooling system made from crap around the house, including what looks like a mayo jar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Made-PC-water-cooling/


Haha, that is cool. I may have to try that.

Sent from my DX running Apex 2.0 RC4


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15547696*
> You all have got to check this out it's a water cooling system made from crap around the house, including what looks like a mayo jar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Made-PC-water-cooling/


LMAO looks like he was making moonshine for a while


----------



## SEN_ONE

Wow, that homemade rig is ghetto, but funny. On another note, after one week my X20 750 Pump/Res is making a grinding/rattling noise that is far from pleasing. I have contacted XSPC.


----------



## Frontsidebus

Last night I got a popup message whilst watching some youtube videos, that my cpu had reached 85'c. I went over and put my ear to the case, sure enough the X20 750 had stalled. I powered down and after a while powered it back on and the pump started. It seems fine now but I've lost my confidence in it.
Can anybody recommend a decent pump with similar, if not better perfomance?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Los Hog

THIS res with THIS pump in it


----------



## Frontsidebus

Thanks mate!


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;15556951*
> Last night I got a popup message whilst watching some youtube videos, that my cpu had reached 85'c. I went over and put my ear to the case, sure enough the X20 750 had stalled. I powered down and after a while powered it back on and the pump started. It seems fine now but I've lost my confidence in it.
> Can anybody recommend a decent pump with similar, if not better perfomance?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


My molex connector that came with it was crap. I removed it and now just put the pins in to the sockets themselves. You sure you're just not having the same problem?


----------



## Frontsidebus

Could well have been. I'll keep an eye on it for the time being but I won't be leaving it alone for a while.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;15557385*
> My molex connector that came with it was crap. I removed it and now just put the pins in to the sockets themselves. You sure you're just not having the same problem?


That actually happened to me once too. The molex connector is junk, I make sure to push the pins all the way into the sockets now.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog;15557035*
> THIS res with THIS pump in it


Would you recommend this combination for a quiet (barely audible) build?


----------



## Los Hog

I cant hear mine and have two of each in my build right now


----------



## Beens17

I can now officially be part of the XSPC Rasa Kit club !

Once i will get the fitting that sidewinder forgot to ship i will add the GPU block to the loop.

Leak testing for 12 hours so far, everything seems to be great.
Pump is pretty quiet. Hope i won't hear it once it's installed in my case (I sit 2 feet from my PC)

I will have to wait for my gf to come over later before i start assembly everything inside the case, i promised to wait so she could help me out ^_^
So i will post those screens later









Here are the leak testing pictures:


----------



## Los Hog

Took a while Beens glad to see you putting it in


----------



## hydropwnics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beens17;15566677*
> I can now officially be part of the XSPC Rasa Kit club !
> 
> Once i will get the fitting that sidewinder forgot to ship i will add the GPU block to the loop.
> 
> Leak testing for 12 hours so far, everything seems to be great.
> Pump is pretty quiet. Hope i won't hear it once it's installed in my case (I sit 2 feet from my PC)
> 
> I will have to wait for my gf to come over later before i start assembly everything inside the case, i promised to wait so she could help me out ^_^
> So i will post those screens later


congrats beens you will love it.


----------



## gboeds

just added a DD full cover copper block on my 480 to the loop, have the rs360 so was waiting to see results before adding another res...

Dropped GPU temps over 25c folding infamous heat generating -advmethod WUs, and din't see any rise in CPU temps while folding both CPU and GPU! Awesome!

My PSU loves the removal of heat from inside the case, too! might be able to go back to 4.3 now


----------



## lightsout

Beens17 Normally you want to leak test inside the case. More then likely you are going to break those connections to get it in the case. So then you will have to leak test again. The main thing you are testing for leaks is your connections, not the rad/res.


----------



## vcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beens17;15566677*
> I can now officially be part of the XSPC Rasa Kit club !
> 
> Once i will get the fitting that sidewinder forgot to ship i will add the GPU block to the loop.
> 
> Leak testing for 12 hours so far, everything seems to be great.
> Pump is pretty quiet. Hope i won't hear it once it's installed in my case (I sit 2 feet from my PC)
> 
> I will have to wait for my gf to come over later before i start assembly everything inside the case, i promised to wait so she could help me out ^_^
> So i will post those screens later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the leak testing pictures:


As lightsout just mentioned, you want to leak test the loop while it's inside your case.

You don't have to place the GPU in or anything. All you'll have is really the PSU and motherboard that the CPU waterblock is attached is. Nothing should be powered 'cept for the pump so in case there is a leak by a connector, you can easily remedy that with no risk of damaging your hardware.

Check out this series of TimeToLive's vids on watercooling that'll help you handle installation, filling, and bleeding your loop









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6qpkigby5w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzBBjkIw7wU&feature=relmfu

(i don't know how to embed youtube vids, anyone wanna gimme a hand?)


----------



## Beens17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Beens17 Normally you want to leak test inside the case. More then likely you are going to break those connections to get it in the case. So then you will have to leak test again. The main thing you are testing for leaks is your connections, not the rad/res.


Ya, i will do that next week when i will be adding the GPU block to the loop.
Installed everything now to check it out with only CPU


----------



## anubis1127

I am never patient enough to leak test much. Maybe like a half hour to an hour.


----------



## kamikaze_

I got a RS360 radiator, if that counts.









Slightly older, because you don't see a GTX 570 with a NX-570/580 in there. These are about the only shots I have of the radiator.


----------



## Frontsidebus

I'm quite confident that my system won't leak. When I disassembled my loop to add a GPU block the only way I could get the tubes off the barbs was to cut them...


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Well I've had my XSPC RS360 kit loop (XSPC Rasa block, RS360 rad and X20 750 Pump/Res)for awhile now and have an RX360 on the way but I need some advice.

I was thinking of adding two gpu blocks for my GTX580's but I have some questions :

1.) Would a RX360 be enough to cool two 580s and a 2600k at 5GHz if it flows Pump -> CPU -> GPU1 -> GPU2 -> Rad?

2.) Would the X20 750 Pump/Res combo have enough power to pump through the loop with the two gpu blocks and cpu block and RX360 ?

3.) If I added a RX120 to the loop and ran Pump -> CPU -> RX120 -> GPU1 -> GPU2 -> RX360 would the X20 750 have enough power to still pump through the loop ?


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyt Ryda;15579679*
> 2.) Would the X20 750 Pump/Res combo have enough power to pump through the loop with the two gpu blocks and cpu block and RX360 ?
> 
> 3.) If I added a RX120 to the loop and ran Pump -> CPU -> RX120 -> GPU1 -> GPU2 -> RX360 would the X20 750 have enough power to still pump through the loop ?


The X20 res/pump combo? I'm confident that it could. I got a basic Swiftech MPC655 pump fairly flowing on one system.

Reservoir > Pump > Swiftech 240MM rad > CPU > GPU > XSPC RS360 > reservoir.


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_;15579733*
> The X20 res/pump combo? I'm confident that it could. I got a basic Swiftech MPC655 pump fairly flowing on one system.
> 
> Reservoir > Pump > Swiftech 240MM rad > CPU > GPU > XSPC RS360 > reservoir.


What speed is your MCP655 ? The X20 is only around 750lph


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyt ryda;15579772*
> what speed is your mcp655 ? The x20 is only around 750lph


1200lph


----------



## Los Hog

I got two mcp655 in my case I love them


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;15579655*
> I'm quite confident that my system won't leak. When I disassembled my loop to add a GPU block the only way I could get the tubes off the barbs was to cut them...


Famous last words. Yea, they don't come off when you pull because it puts shrinking force on the hose. However , when water flows, the force is expanding force from inside. Don't be that guy who rushes and eats a big crap stick for it.

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.


----------



## Frontsidebus

Heh, true. I did do up the clamps nice and tight and spent a few hours sitting with a torch looking for the slightest drip.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well my case Mod is coming along, I started painting is today







With any luck soon I'll be looking at Hardware to fill the Little Devil







and on of those pieces of hardware will be a Rasa RX360 kit I can't wait


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;15581040*
> sitting with a torch


flashlight?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;15584046*
> flashlight?


we in the uk haven't advanced enough for flashlights we use burning torches


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback;15584146*
> we in the uk haven't advanced enough for flashlights we use burning torches


I'd love to use one, but i'd be afraid of getting dripping fat everywhere.


----------



## Greenback

nothing like a beef dripping sarnie


----------



## Vodkacooling

This blows! I cant do push/pull with the Rasa 240 in the corsair 500r


----------



## Greenback

you didn't see ttl review on the case then


----------



## SEN_ONE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vodkacooling*


This blows! I cant do push/pull with the Rasa 240 in the corsair 500r



You can do a push/pull up top with the RS240. You just have to do some modding, or remove the mesh panel. I have an RX240 up top with AP-15's pushing from inside the case. I cut out room for the radiator on the top mesh panel.


----------



## robwadeson

Thinking about getting the rs240 kit but I heard some horror story about the tubing. What kind of cheap good tubing do guys recommend (The UV blue looks cool)? Sorry this is my first time wc so I'm still learning bits







thanks!


----------



## spRICE

I got 6ft of the Primochill tubing. I ordered it from Jab-Tech because it was the cheapest there.


----------



## robwadeson

what is the OD and ID I should be looking at?


----------



## Ivan TSI

7/16-id
5/8-od


----------



## ruairi

What do you guys think would be better, rs360 with push pull or rx360 with just push/pull. I want it to be as quiet as possible.


----------



## robwadeson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruairi;15599450*
> What do you guys think would be better, rs360 with push pull or rx360 with just push/pull. I want it to be as quiet as possible.


On your sig rig, the rs360 would probably be more than enough even at lowest fan speed


----------



## ruairi

Thanks I do plan on upgrading some time in the future


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruairi;15599450*
> What do you guys think would be better, rs360 with push pull or rx360 with just push/pull. I want it to be as quiet as possible.


If you have the room, I will always recommend getting the RX360. It does great with low speed fans


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ruairi*


Thanks I do plan on upgrading some time in the future










I'd consider upgrading first b4 going water get a case that can take an rx360 + extra rads because once you start watercooling you will want more cooled


----------



## Gainward

Hi guys,

so i'v been thinking about upgrading my RS360 kit to get some better temps, but I'm confused between upgrading the block or getting another RAD like the RX240 for example and add it to the loop

So what do you guys suggest?


----------



## Los Hog

If your case will hold it get a RX240 and add it to the loop save $$


----------



## Greenback

the rs360 should be more than enough to cool a cpu though if you want to go better then a rad would be the option


----------



## chineytt

Good day fellow RASA guys..

total wate rcooling noob here ( i dont think various corsair kits count..lol )

I recently ordered the rasa 750 rs240 kit for my 6990, my idea was to use the h100 on cpu and that rasa kit on gpu, but.... reading on more, i realized that people are adding a rx120 to the loop and running the cpu on it as well..

loop order:

Pump > 240rad > 6990 > rx120 > i7 2600k > pump

any help/ideas/recommendations i would greatly appreciate from you experts.


----------



## Greenback

considering the 6990 it basicly 2 cards I would add an Rx240 or rx360 instead of the 120


----------



## chineytt

my case is the Tt Element V full tower, i do plan to mod it for a full side window as well as what ever else for cable management.

space is a slight problem with 2 240 rads. any other recommendations or fabrication ideas, as how i already have the rs240 kit on the way??


----------



## Los Hog

Pull h100 out sell it to help with cost put the rasa rs240 rad at the top and a 120 rad on exhaust of the case. Use the rasa cpu block and all is well ???


----------



## chineytt

that was my initial idea/plan. the h100 is for sale and the next question is if the rasa 750ln pump would be okay for the loop?

you guys are a great help btw. thanks so much


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chineytt*


my case is the Tt Element V full tower, i do plan to mod it for a full side window as well as what ever else for cable management.

space is a slight problem with 2 240 rads. any other recommendations or fabrication ideas, as how i already have the rs240 kit on the way??


RS240 on top, and it looks like the bottom, down near the PSU area could be modded to fit another. If you don't want to mess with that, then as Los Hog suggested a 120 on the exhaust should be fine.

[edit]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chineytt*


that was my initial idea/plan. the h100 is for sale and the next question is if the rasa 750ln pump would be okay for the loop?

you guys are a great help btw. thanks so much


Yeah, the pump should be fine for the loop you are proposing.


----------



## Gainward

Thanks guys for the help


----------



## Frenchtoast18

So this will be my first post on OCN, so be easy on me. I've been looking to water cool my stuff for the past few weeks and it seems this is the best kit for the money. But I have a couple questions.

I want to watercool my phenom 965 BE and my sapphire toxic 6950, would the rs360 kit be sufficient or should I bump up to the rx360 kit? I'm not 100 percent sure what the difference is between the two.

Hopefully I'll have one of these kits in the near future.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frenchtoast18;15604071*
> So this will be my first post on OCN, so be easy on me. I've been looking to water cool my stuff for the past few weeks and it seems this is the best kit for the money. But I have a couple questions.
> 
> I want to watercool my phenom 965 BE and my sapphire toxic 6950, would the rs360 kit be sufficient or should I bump up to the rx360 kit? I'm not 100 percent sure what the difference is between the two.
> 
> Hopefully I'll have one of these kits in the near future.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


The rs360 should be sufficient, the main difference between the two is the thickness. rs360 is thin, so you need medium to high speed fan cool it, while the rx360 is thicker, so you can get by using low speed fans, which will be more quiet. Either one will be fine though.

Are you planning on trying to mount the radiator internally, or externally? If external, I would say go with the RX360. Internal you may be limited on space, and perhaps the RS360 is the better route to take.

There are a ton of Phantom mods on OCN, and other forums, so perhaps you can find somebody that has all ready mounted a RX360 in theirs, but the ones I've seen all had thin radiators. I don't think you would have enough room for a RX360, plus fans, in the top of the phantom without having something sticking out the top, probably the radiator.

[edit]
Here's a thread with info specific to watercooling the NZXT Phantom with these kits: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1089921-nzxt-phantom-xspc-rasa-rx-rs240.html


----------



## Los Hog

The rx is a bigger rad Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH) so you can use low speed fans to cool it it has a low fin per inch count
The rs is thinner rad Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH) and cools good with med to high speed fans higher fins per inch count








But the fans that come with the kit are fine unless you want to replace them.
I would advise you to get better tubing as the tubing that comes with the kit clouds up fast due to plasticizer. Pick your color
and dont forget a kill coil LINKY


----------



## Frenchtoast18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127;15604345*
> The rs360 should be sufficient, the main difference between the two is the thickness. rs360 is thin, so you need medium to high speed fan cool it, while the rx360 is thicker, so you can get by using low speed fans, which will be more quiet. Either one will be fine though.
> 
> Are you planning on trying to mount the radiator internally, or externally? If external, I would say go with the RX360. Internal you may be limited on space, and perhaps the RS360 is the better route to take.
> 
> There are a ton of Phantom mods on OCN, and other forums, so perhaps you can find somebody that has all ready mounted a RX360 in theirs, but the ones I've seen all had thin radiators. I don't think you would have enough room for a RX360, plus fans, in the top of the phantom without having something sticking out the top, probably the radiator.
> 
> [edit]
> Here's a thread with info specific to watercooling the NZXT Phantom with these kits: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1089921-nzxt-phantom-xspc-rasa-rx-rs240.html


Thanks for the input. Also thanks for the link, been trying to search for it but it's hard to do on an iPhone. I'll check that link out and figure out where I wanna go from there


----------



## chineytt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127;15603630*
> RS240 on top, and it looks like the bottom, down near the PSU area could be modded to fit another. If you don't want to mess with that, then as Los Hog suggested a 120 on the exhaust should be fine.
> 
> [edit]
> 
> Yeah, the pump should be fine for the loop you are proposing.


thanks there!

what temps do you get with your setup?

also my room will be cold, like 20c cold once the pc is on.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt;15605571*
> thanks there!
> 
> what temps do you get with your setup?
> 
> also my room will be cold, like 20c cold once the pc is on.


My room is a bit warmer than that, maybe 22-23c. I'm using a single RS240 right now. IBT get my 2500k up to 66c on the hottest core with it OC'd to 4.5ghz using 1.32v. Generally doesn't go over 50c in gaming, so I'm going to OC a bit more today. I'll update you on temps with higher OC/more voltage.


----------



## Frenchtoast18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog;15604355*
> The rx is a bigger rad Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH) so you can use low speed fans to cool it it has a low fin per inch count
> The rs is thinner rad Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH) and cools good with med to high speed fans higher fins per inch count
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fans that come with the kit are fine unless you want to replace them.
> I would advise you to get better tubing as the tubing that comes with the kit clouds up fast due to plasticizer. Pick your color
> and dont forget a kill coil LINKY


How are the fans that come with the kit as far as noise level?


----------



## chineytt

^ good question, should i get new fans as well?

lets see some pics of your setup anubis1127


----------



## Los Hog

Fan that are not that bad at all I have no info on them dont remember the name. I did change out the fans when I had a rasa kit to ap-15 gentle typhoon and used a fan controller or your motherboard to turn them down to 600 rpms no noise and good cooling


----------



## Kahbrohn

Ok... now what have I missed???


----------



## chineytt

i am just getting some help from these guys with my first WC setup ( not all in one )


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt;15606600*
> ^ good question, should i get new fans as well?
> 
> lets see some pics of your setup anubis1127


The stock fans aren't that loud, only 1200rpm. They are serviceable, you can replace them if you want even lower temps. I'm using Yate Loon medium speed fans w/ my rs240, I need to install the pull set still. I got those because they are cheap, a better/more expensive option would be the Gentle Typhoons.

Ok, I have a crappy case mod/build log here if you want to see. Kind of a fail mod, but it's still pretty quiet, so I don't mind.

[edit]
Oh, and here are my temps in IBT @ 4.8ghz w/ 1.456v (I'm actually using offset, and llc so it fluctuates):


That's IBT, way hotter temps than any software I use will get. I'm running prime95, and it's only gotten up to 67C on the hottest core, last time I did a 12hr run at this voltage it only got up to 70C.

[edit]
OK, I put the pull fans in, got 2c lower highest core temp 78c, same OC. Oh, and I'm using EVGA frostbite TIM, so I could probably have lower temps with a better TIM. I have some Shin-Etsu I got with the fans, but have been waiting to go to microcenter to pick up some TIM remover.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn;15607006*
> Ok... now what have I missed???


You have been gone like . . . Forever man!! How have you been?


----------



## hollywood406

Greetings fellow XSPC Rasa ect.ect. club members!









I will soon be the proud owner of a RS240 kit for my backup gaming rig. My rig consists of:

Coolermaster Storm Sniper case
Asus P6T Deluxe Mobo
i7 960 (overclocked at the moment to 4.0ghz 1.2875v)
OCZ Gold 6GB 1600mhz kit
Zotac GTX570
Samsung f3 500GB HDD's (2 in raid 0)
Antec True Power New 750w PSU

I cool this rig with a modded H50, adding a swiftech microres. Temps are 35c idle and 65c loaded by P95. I was hoping to get better temps for some overclocking headroom. I'll be adding pictures when I get the kit (installed)

As a side note, I ordered from FrozenCPU and used the 5% discount. It's worth noting that I had a slight issue with the discount, namely I forgot to add the code, and the owner personally emailed me to let me know they would credit my account for the amount. Now THAT'S customer service!







That's the first time that I've seen the owners email address on the store site for correspondence. It was a pleasure dealing with FrozenCPU.

Who do I thank (and +rep) on this site for the discount??


----------



## Los Hog

mbudden put that up i think http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/882408-official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120.html#post11546996. And welcome to water world lol


----------



## Frenchtoast18

Alright so I'm thinking, if I decide to get this WC kit. I'm going to have a Corsair H50 just laying around. Was thinking maybe I could put it to some use.

Would it work if I got an RX240 kit, and also used the rad off the H50. Or would I possibly run into complications? I've seen people on here that have used the H50 parts, but mostly its people using the block/pump, I haven't seen too many use the rad.

Again, thanks for the help.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frenchtoast18;15608668*
> Alright so I'm thinking, if I decide to get this WC kit. I'm going to have a Corsair H50 just laying around. Was thinking maybe I could put it to some use.
> 
> Would it work if I got an RX240 kit, and also used the rad off the H50. Or would I possibly run into complications? I've seen people on here that have used the H50 parts, but mostly its people using the block/pump, I haven't seen too many use the rad.
> 
> Again, thanks for the help.


The rad on the h50 has smaller barbs, so you would have difficulty fitting tubes on with your other components. You would probably have to use different sized tubing.

IMO, you would be better off selling the h50 for $30 or $40, and getting a 120 rad, they can be had for that price.


----------



## Los Hog

And I think the rad on a h50 is aluminum dont want to do a loop with that


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog;15608603*
> mbudden put that up i think http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/882408-official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120.html#post11546996. And welcome to water world lol


Thanks!....Glad to be here and I can't wait for my kit to get here. It shipped today so I should see it before the weekend!









+rep to mbudden for securing us a discount on these kits!


----------



## chineytt

wait!! the rads on corsair units are made of aluminum?


----------



## Los Hog

Yes they are







REVIEW read down to the review of the rad


----------



## chineytt

hehehe, i didnt know/realize that

so these items are in my cart to be added to the loop:

http://www.amazon.com/Koolance-VID-AR699-Radeon-Water-Block/dp/B004VRD6YU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320725716&sr=8-1]Amazon.com: Koolance VID-AR699 (Radeon HD 6990) Water Block for LCS: Electronics[/URL]

http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-RS240-Performance-Copper-Radiator/dp/B001GDKBZ4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1320725788&sr=1-3]Amazon.com: XSPC RS240 Black High Performance Copper Fin Radiator: Electronics[/URL]

dual 240 rads and some good fans, i do thank you guys for letting me know that the pump would work good in this setup, i was worried it wont, but it seems that the new batches work well now.

[EDIT]

i noticed that online, all the parts of the rasa kit got good reviews as well.....i am truly impressed i made the right choice!


----------



## chewdude

Just ordered the XSPC RX360 and 2 580 blocks from EK. Cant wait for it to get here and start the build again. any tidbits of info that any of you could share in a PM would be great.
Lots of nice rigs on here gratz to you all.


----------



## Beens17

Hey guys.

I have the rx360 inside my haf x.
But due to a heatsink on my mobo i cant fit one of the 25mm fans.

Will addning a 20 or 15 mm fan will do the job?


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beens17;15613936*
> Hey guys.
> 
> I have the rx360 inside my haf x.
> But due to a heatsink on my mobo i cant fit one of the 25mm fans.
> 
> Will addning a 20 or 15 mm fan will do the job?


A thinner fan will work just fine. There are several members on here that use thinner fans. You will get slightly worse performance, but I doubt that you would notice it.


----------



## Beens17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;15613971*
> A thinner fan will work just fine. There are several members on here that use thinner fans. You will get slightly worse performance, but I doubt that you would notice it.


Thanks.
What about not addind that fan?
How will it affect my temps?


----------



## evil jerry

Ok here she is Monster Air Fish Tank Edition









So I guess i'm petitioning to join the club:band:

This is my first watercool build.

XSPC Rasa RS360 Kit with 3 green cooler master sickle flow fans. Please ignore the wires you see in the pictures, i'm sleeving and getting extensions soon.

Hoses are clear, I dropped a Black UV Dye bomb in the water, (looks blacker in pics then in person) I have not tried a blacklight up to it yet to see what it looks like.

I've noticed a little bit of racket from my pump, It's almost to the point of driving me insane. You would think all the fans in my case would be loud but I have a fan controller and I run them all very low speed. Is this normal or should I have this RMA'd back to XSPC. If it's normal i'm likely to rip this pump and reservoir out when I get some more cash.


----------



## kamikaze_

First time I seen anyone using teh lanboi.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry;15614299*
> Ok here she is Monster Air Fish Tank Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess i'm petitioning to join the club:band:
> 
> This is my first watercool build.
> 
> XSPC Rasa RS360 Kit with 3 green cooler master sickle flow fans. Please ignore the wires you see in the pictures, i'm sleeving and getting extensions soon.
> 
> Hoses are clear, I dropped a Black UV Dye bomb in the water, (looks blacker in pics then in person) I have not tried a blacklight up to it yet to see what it looks like.
> 
> I've noticed a little bit of racket from my pump, It's almost to the point of driving me insane. You would think all the fans in my case would be loud but I have a fan controller and I run them all very low speed. Is this normal or should I have this RMA'd back to XSPC. If it's normal i'm likely to rip this pump and reservoir out when I get some more cash.
> [/IMG]


I dont know how long you been running the loop but I do know if you dont have all the air out of the system the pump will make noise. But if it wont quit making noise Xspc is real good about RMA most times they ship your pump overnight here is there contact link http://www.xs-pc.com/contactus/contact-asia/ they may want a short vid to hear the pump so be ready for this.
BTW that is a killer looking lanboy


----------



## mastrflexx

WOO! I just got work from the mob supplying my 750 RX360 kit that the radiator was damaged in the box so they're replacing it for me free of charge. I had two rads to choose from, one was an XSPC EX 360 rad or an EK XTX 360 rad. So naturally I chose the EK!


----------



## chineytt

they seem to have good reviews as well

i am still stuck deciding between an extra 120rad in the loop or a 240rad....

so its dual 240s or 240+120...along with rasa 750 rs240 kit....


----------



## Los Hog

Putting your gpu underwater ?


----------



## chineytt

yep!!! so whats it going to be bro???

on another note, i just bought some Swiftech HydrX


----------



## Boyboyd

Dual 240s at least.


----------



## Los Hog

Yea that vid card is a space heater lol I vote for two 240s also


----------



## chineytt

240s it is, say the guys who have a 5.2ghz oc and 2 loops respectively !


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beens17;15614005*
> Thanks.
> What about not addind that fan?
> How will it affect my temps?


If you don't add a fan, then your rad will perform a little better than an RX240 but not up to the full potential of your RX360.


----------



## WeirdHarold

I agree if you're putting your GPU under water the more rad you can fit the better off you'll be.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## chineytt

ok, i want to place the order, deciding on these 2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WSCG9O/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_g147_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1KZXJC282HKAD9KV0902&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846]Amazon.com: Koolance Radiator, 2x120mm 20-FPI Copper HX-CU720VS: Electronics[/URL]

[ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FRadiator-2x120mm-30-FPI-Copper-nozzles%2Fdp%2FB004YF4HF6%2Fref%3Dpd_cp_e_1]http://www.amazon.com/Radiator-2x120mm-30-FPI-Copper-nozzles/dp/B004YF4HF6/ref=pd_cp_e_1"]Amazon.com[/URL]: Radiator, 2x120mm 30-FPI Copper [no nozzles]: Electronics[/ame]

sigh.. and only 1 left in stock


----------



## Los Hog

The first one well be ez on your fans as it has 20 FPI


----------



## hollywood406

OK, here's the results of my RS240 kit install. After I cleared away the mess, this is what I was left with!







Rig specs are as follows:

Coolermaster Storm Sniper case

Asus P6T Deluxe mobo

Intel i7 960 cpu overclocked to 4.0ghz at 1.293v Vcore

6GB OCZ Gold 1600mhz DDR3 memory

Zotac GTX570 gpu

Asus Xonar DG sound card

Antec TP New 750w psu

and of course the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 watercooling kit

The kit replaced my Corsair H50 that was slightly modded with a Swiftech MicroRes reservoir. Temps were 35c at idle and 65c with a Prime95 small fft load (15-20 min into the run). That's not too shabby for the H50 but I wanted to OC the i7 a bit more and wanted some headroom to accomodate 4.2ghz or higher for 24/7 operation.

Temps are sitting at 31c idle and 61c loaded for the same period as the previous test. I think it will do better if I reverse the fans and have them intake instead of exhaust but I'm pleased with the results and I love the look.

One thing...... the pump is making a buzzing-type of noise. Has anyone here had the same issue? I can hear it above the fans, even at 100%. I wonder if that will shorten it's life? I emailed XSPC about it, I hope they can help me out,

IMG_5009.JPG 480k .JPG file


IMG_5015.JPG 577k .JPG file


IMG_5016.JPG 578k .JPG file


IMG_5017.JPG 544k .JPG file


oppsss.....new layout, I should have inserted images not attachments. Let's try this again.....


----------



## chineytt

that tubing looks awesomee

great work!


----------



## chineytt

well guys
after all the help from here and chats with hog, this is what was bought and awaiting arrival:

XSPC RASA 750 rs40 kit



Koolance 240 Rad



Koolance VID AR699 Block



extra danger den g1/4 barbs, some swiftech hydrx and maybe new tubing, white like the hollywood's build


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> that tubing looks awesomee
> great work!


Thanks! The tubing was leftover from another project and I always liked the withe tubing!


----------



## Los Hog

Great work hollywood









Cant wait to see your build chineytt


----------



## Los Hog

Sorry dub post


----------



## Mazda6i07

So yesterday I bought this kit off of Performance Pcs. Drove down there and picked it up haha. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.


----------



## kourgath

sigh 9 months to the day after i recieve my rasa x360 the pump dies as i'm just starting to play TESV. hopefully i can get xspc to replace it.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mazda6i07*
> 
> So yesterday I bought this kit off of Performance Pcs. Drove down there and picked it up haha. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.


Looks great







now its time to put those gpus underwater


----------



## Mazda6i07

That's next on the list. Come x-mas time i'll be doing them as well. Probably going to do (2) 240's, one per card. More than likely going to mount both rad's on the door of my 932 haha


----------



## Greenback

new kits out from xspc
XSPC Raystorm 750 EX360 WaterCooling Kit


----------



## Los Hog

Now thats a kit with all the new stuff !! Great find Greenback thanks for the info +rep to you


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Now thats a kit with all the new stuff !! Great find Greenback thanks for the info +rep to you


I need the rep for some reason I have lost a couple

But yes if I didn't already have water it's would be the 1 for me


----------



## chineytt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mazda6i07*
> 
> So yesterday I bought this kit off of Performance Pcs. Drove down there and picked it up haha. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.


NICE NICE

4.0ghz on the i7 920? GG!


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mazda6i07*
> 
> So yesterday I bought this kit off of Performance Pcs. Drove down there and picked it up haha. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.


Wow, that's really packed in there! Looking good!


----------



## Quccu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> new kits out from xspc
> XSPC Raystorm 750 EX360 WaterCooling Kit


Are those EX Radiators better performers than RX Radiators?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quccu*
> 
> Are those EX Radiators better performers than RX Radiators?


los hog has tried them and his thoughts are
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I just replaced my four RX360 rads with EX360s and I can tell they do cool better my load temps dropped 9c in my first test.


----------



## vcrazy

has anyone seen reviews for the new EX RADs and how they perform against the RS/RX line?


----------



## intermission

I've been looking at the xspc kits for a week or so now, and I'm trying to figure out what size kit to purchase. I want to cool a AMD phenom II 975 OC'ed to 4.2ghz and an MSI 6870 that is also overclocked, would this be enough cooling for the both of them?


----------



## chineytt

from reading here and else where online, i believe if you invested in the rx360 kit, that will cool you very well

this here:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14183/ex-wat-182/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?id=gbFryxJJ


----------



## chineytt

question guys:

use kill coil or i can just used the swiftech hydrX that i bought?


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> question guys:
> 
> use kill coil or i can just used the swiftech hydrX that i bought?


I never use any coolants they can break down and clog your blocks were distilled water with a kill coil cant do this if you clean your system every year


----------



## Kahbrohn

Well, USPS just delivered my brand spanking new Raystorm... That will take me away from being a full RASA kit owner, but I am still a XSPC advocate. The only non-XSPC item I will now have is the pump.


----------



## Los Hog

How much do they mark up the shipping for you ?


----------



## kamikaze_

FedEx ftw.


----------



## chineytt

ok i understand, but the hydrx is just an additive. what about if i just use a tad bit of it in the system. i already bought it







didnt want to waste it.


----------



## mironccr345

Replaced the RS360 for the RX360, installed a RayStorm cpu block and more UV cathodes.


----------



## chineytt

holy f\\k

that rad look like it cud cool my crv LOL

niceness!!!!


----------



## Los Hog

looks great


----------



## Mazda6i07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> NICE NICE
> 4.0ghz on the i7 920? GG!


Yes, I just overclocked to 4.4GHz a few days ago.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hollywood406*
> 
> Wow, that's really packed in there! Looking good!


And not too packed, but I cant wait to cool the gpu's.


----------



## chineytt

got mail!










added the block and another 240 rad from koolance


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> got mail!
> 
> added the block and another 240 rad from koolance


Well, it looks like you have a fun project ahead of you









Good Luck


----------



## WeirdHarold

So I've got a question that will help me in planning my water cooling setup! I unfortunately due to the purchase of the Little Devil case will not actually be getting one of the Rasa Kits since I don't want to use up 2 of the 4 5.25" dive bays for the Res / Pump. But I will be using XSPC Rads and CPU Block, but my question is a bit more to the point of cooling potential of the Rads. Will one RX480 Rad be enough or more than enough to cool a dual SLI setup? It will be it's own loop separate from the CPU loop which will also be cooled by an RX480, which I know is way overkill for just a CPU but the case is capable of holding 3 480 Rads so I figured why not


----------



## WeirdHarold

For some reason when I try to edit my last post it's not showing the change so just in case:

The GPU cooling loop will be separate from the CPU loop, both will use an RX480 Rad and I know it's way overkill for the CPU but with a case that will hold 3 of the 480's I figured why not


----------



## Eagle1337

Easily..


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> Easily..


Thanks, I figured it would but thought I'd ask to make sure as I'm a firm believer that the only stupid question is the one you never ask


----------



## chineytt

yeh i would say that as well, did a few WC setups with lower end stuff and i realize that a big factor is the air u push through the rad.


----------



## Los Hog

There is no such thing as over kill when it comes to watercooling


----------



## Greenback

overkill is a term used by others when yours is bigger then thiers


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> There is no such thing as over kill when it comes to watercooling


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> overkill is a term used by others when yours is bigger then thiers


The only reason that I said it might be overkill is that my 965BE is currently running with great temps with a Corsair H50, so going form that little single 120 rad to a quad 120 rad just seems like overkill. But like I said since the case can hold the rads why not


----------



## Greenback

I had a phobya 360 + 120 cooling my 2500k untill I added my gpu


----------



## Los Hog

I started with a rasa Rs240 kit cooling my cpu. Now I an running 2 loops with two ES360s a loop. Idle temps runnig a 20c load temps never have gotten above 40c under load


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I started with a rasa Rs240 kit cooling my cpu. Now I an running 2 loops with two ES360s a loop. Idle temps runnig a 20c load temps never have gotten above 40c under load


Well, I spent a good portion of time last night looking at water cooling parts and trying to plan how I'd like to set things up and I have a pretty good Idea. To start I'm only going to do the one loop for the CPU mostly due to the cost, about $450 to $500 for the one loop about $1,000 for both so one at a time it will be. Now I just need to come to a decision of what company to go with for my upgrade AMD or Intel, and it's not an easy decision. Same money or better performance, where is the 3rd option where I can have both?


----------



## chineytt

^^ show the parts u looked at to get those figures, the gurus here will sort you out i am positive.


----------



## Greenback

*company to go with for my upgrade AMD or Intel,*

easy choice


----------



## piskooooo

My NH-D14 is starting to suck, especially now that I have a case with a window. I would just need to buy this and fluid right?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> ^^ show the parts u looked at to get those figures, the gurus here will sort you out i am positive.


Ok here are the parts:

Pump:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13148/ex-pmp-132/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_HF_Top_Edition.html
Rad:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9391/ex-rad-160/XSPC_RX480_Quad_120mm_Radiator.html
Res:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11183/ex-res-230/EK-MultiOption_RES_X2_-_250_Advanced_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_8_Total_Ports.html
CPU Block, but I'll get the black version:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11026/ex-blc-771/XSPC_Rasa_High_Performance_Acetal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_Sockets_LGA_775_1155_1156_1366.html
Tubing:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12791/ex-tub-820/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_38_ID_12_OD_with_116_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Blue_PFLEXP10-12-B.html

That's all the main parts in addition to them will be some compression fittings and Pass through fittings and so on plus a Killcoil.

Well, that's for the CPU the Pump, Res, Rad and Tubing will be the same for the GPU loop but as I don't plan to set it up until I upgrade my Graphics cards which will be down the road a way.


----------



## Skyboss

Question guys,

I have the RS240 kit and I'm wondering what is the best flow meter or flow indicator to purchase for my loop. I have 1/2" ID 3/4" OD primochill tubing. What do you guys have in your systems? I want to make sure the water is still flowing and isn't slowing down. I'm loving the kit so far and plan to incorporate it in my main Beast rig. Now it's currently in my media server case. Thanks!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piskooooo*
> 
> My NH-D14 is starting to suck, especially now that I have a case with a window. I would just need to buy this and fluid right?


I would recommend that you use distilled water with a kill coil for your fluid, also getting some better tubing other than the what comes with the kit as the stuff that comes in the kit kinks really easy and tends to discolor quickly.

Hope this helps, and good luck


----------



## piskooooo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I would recommend that you use distilled water with a kill coil for your fluid, also getting some better tubing other than the what comes with the kit as the stuff that comes in the kit kinks really easy and tends to discolor quickly.
> Hope this helps, and good luck


This was on the list so I'm guessing it's good?

Actually, I kinda like white tubes too...


----------



## Greenback

this is better
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s809


----------



## piskooooo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> this is better
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s809


Nice, thanks. How much should I get, like 10 feet?


----------



## Greenback

10 feet will be plenty


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piskooooo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> this is better
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8279/ex-tub-436/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s809
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, thanks. How much should I get, like 10 feet?
Click to expand...

Yea 10 feet is real good that way if you mess up you have extra. I mess up or change my mind every damn time I cut tubing








I would save you some trouble by telling you to get some real good heavy duty shears or a tubing cutter that stuff is hell to cut square with out


----------



## piskooooo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Yea 10 feet is real good that way if you mess up you have extra. I mess up or change my mind every damn time I cut tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would save you some trouble by telling you to get some real good heavy duty shears or a tubing cutter that stuff is hell to cut square with out


Thanks, already got lots of tools from the work me and my dad do on other stuff (cars, plumbing, electric, etc) so I think I'm good.

Just bought my kit and tubing, $160.45 thanks to the 5% off in the OP. I'll make sure to post pics when I get it all installed!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piskooooo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Yea 10 feet is real good that way if you mess up you have extra. I mess up or change my mind every damn time I cut tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would save you some trouble by telling you to get some real good heavy duty shears or a tubing cutter that stuff is hell to cut square with out
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, already got lots of tools from the work me and my dad do on other stuff (cars, plumbing, electric, etc) so I think I'm good.
> 
> Just bought my kit and tubing, $160.45 thanks to the 5% off in the OP. I'll make sure to post pics when I get it all installed!
Click to expand...

Well it looks like you have a very fun project in your future and I look forward to seeing some pictures









Good luck with your water cooling endeavor


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piskooooo*
> 
> Thanks, already got lots of tools from the work me and my dad do on other stuff (cars, plumbing, electric, etc) so I think I'm good.
> Just bought my kit and tubing, $160.45 thanks to the 5% off in the OP. I'll make sure to post pics when I get it all installed!


as a thought as your getting the kit use the crap tubing in that to plan your loop till your happy then swap it out for the good stuff save waste


----------



## chineytt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok here are the parts:
> Pump:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13148/ex-pmp-132/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_HF_Top_Edition.html
> Rad:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9391/ex-rad-160/XSPC_RX480_Quad_120mm_Radiator.html
> Res:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11183/ex-res-230/EK-MultiOption_RES_X2_-_250_Advanced_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_8_Total_Ports.html
> CPU Block, but I'll get the black version:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11026/ex-blc-771/XSPC_Rasa_High_Performance_Acetal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_Sockets_LGA_775_1155_1156_1366.html
> Tubing:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12791/ex-tub-820/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_38_ID_12_OD_with_116_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Blue_PFLEXP10-12-B.html
> That's all the main parts in addition to them will be some compression fittings and Pass through fittings and so on plus a Killcoil.
> Well, that's for the CPU the Pump, Res, Rad and Tubing will be the same for the GPU loop but as I don't plan to set it up until I upgrade my Graphics cards which will be down the road a way.


loving that kit yo!

question:

didnt want to get another cpu block? maybe a high end high flow block since ur pump is a high end?

i am lookin at this for a 'nice' factor

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-White-Tubing-16in-8in/dp/B0047EGATA/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1321323759&sr=8-12


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok here are the parts:
> Pump:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13148/ex-pmp-132/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_HF_Top_Edition.html
> Rad:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9391/ex-rad-160/XSPC_RX480_Quad_120mm_Radiator.html
> Res:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11183/ex-res-230/EK-MultiOption_RES_X2_-_250_Advanced_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_8_Total_Ports.html
> CPU Block, but I'll get the black version:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11026/ex-blc-771/XSPC_Rasa_High_Performance_Acetal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_Sockets_LGA_775_1155_1156_1366.html
> Tubing:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12791/ex-tub-820/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_38_ID_12_OD_with_116_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Blue_PFLEXP10-12-B.html
> That's all the main parts in addition to them will be some compression fittings and Pass through fittings and so on plus a Killcoil.
> Well, that's for the CPU the Pump, Res, Rad and Tubing will be the same for the GPU loop but as I don't plan to set it up until I upgrade my Graphics cards which will be down the road a way.
> 
> 
> 
> loving that kit yo!
> 
> question:
> 
> didnt want to get another cpu block? maybe a high end high flow block since ur pump is a high end?
> 
> i am lookin at this for a 'nice' factor
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-White-Tubing-16in-8in/dp/B0047EGATA/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1321323759&sr=8-12
Click to expand...

Actually in the research that I've done the XSPC waterblock is rated as one of the best out there, and since it's also at a reasonable price and looks great to boot I was kinda set on it. However I will take some time to look at some others, as for the pump it's the variable speed version so you can dial it in to the speed that works best for your set up. The white tubing is good tubing and the same brand as the blue that I will be getting, I just don't like the look of the white and Blue is one of my favorite colors so !


----------



## chineytt

cool cool

well pics when u start and finish!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> cool cool
> 
> well pics when u start and finish!


I've already started in the sense that I'm mostly done with the case mods for the case I'll be using but I'm still trying to decide between AMD and Intel for the build. Intel costs more but the cost does come with it's share of benefits, but with as much as it costs to water cool the first time around I'm having a really hard time thinking of dishing out $700 just for a motherboard, CPU and memory. For not much more than $700 I could go AMD and have my CPU loop as well, Ok putting it that way why am I still debating this issue









Anyway I will post pics when I get started with stuff both here and on my Build Log in my Sig area.


----------



## chineytt

well because you went high end cooling... and now u putting it on hardware that is less impressive.

i know i am not wrong with that statement..

with that being said, i would spring for intel

gimme 10mins i go find a nice combo for you


----------



## Edbert

Here's my RX360 in the lanboy...


----------



## chineytt

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128502

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314

used that combo before, for a friend, and its at 4.5 on water doing well!

*EDIT* that lan boy looks SEXY !!!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edbert*
> 
> Here's my RX360 in the lanboy...


never thought i would say this but your lanboy make me want to go out and buy one


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128502
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314
> 
> used that combo before, for a friend, and its at 4.5 on water doing well!
> 
> *EDIT* that lan boy looks SEXY !!!


Knowing myself as well as I do I will most likely talk myself in and out of so many different things so many times that Ivy Bridge will be out by the time I make up my mind exactly what I want to do, then the indecision will start all over again. However right now if I was going to go with Intel this would be my choice simply cause I don't like to go cheap on stuff no matter what my brand choice might be.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131791

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115070

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145347

I might do this and simply cool the Processor with a Rasa Rx360 kit while I save for the other stuff and then just mod the loop when I'm ready.

Oh yeah thanks for looking up parts for me and the advice +Rep

And last I too agree the Lan Boy Looks Awesome


----------



## WeirdHarold

Ok now for 2 Questions:

First if I were to get the RS360 Kit would the included pump have more than enough to replace the 360 rad with a 480 rad?

Second what's the word on XSPC's EK series of Rad's? Specifically I'm looking at the EK480, specs say that it combines the best of both the RS and RX series of Rad's by giving you high performance with low fan speeds like the RX series and the low profile of the RS series.


----------



## chineytt

i believe the pump is good for a 480 rad, but with respect to the parts, awesome!!!!!!!!

as with the EK rads, i would still get good fans no matter what, because i am sure you plan to OC, hence the reason for getting the WC setup. correct?


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR

Bought an RX360 kit off a member here, but I plan on adding a little bit to it


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> i believe the pump is good for a 480 rad, but with respect to the parts, awesome!!!!!!!!
> 
> as with the EK rads, i would still get good fans no matter what, because i am sure you plan to OC, hence the reason for getting the WC setup. correct?


Yes you would be very correct that I will be overclocking and good fans would be a given, if I get the EK rad it will allow of a push pull setup and I will most likely use a combo of Noctura and AreoCool like these:

Noctura for the pull side or case side:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608004

AreoCool for the push side or the bottom side of the Rad:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129056

I've already used some of the AreoCool fans in my current setup and I really like them they push a good amount of air and they look awesome while doing it and they don't make much noise.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Is this hose by XSPC any good does anyone know?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14227/ex-tub-1019/XSPC_High_Flex_PVC_Tubing_-_716_ID_58OD_-_UV_Blue.html

I'm asking because it's now an option at FrozenCPU to change the hose you get with the kit, but you can only get the XSPC brand for an extra $15.


----------



## chineytt

so far i have not read of any other problems other than they kink easily for those sharper bends, which should be avoided in any case ( no pun intended LOL )


----------



## pvt.joker

Soo, figured this might be a good place to ask a quick question..
Looking at purchasing the RX 360 kit (and joining the club) and I'd be adding 2x GTX 470 waterblocks to the loop as well. Looking to see if anyone has had a similar setup and if the base RX 360 kit (with better fans) has enough head room for overclocked cpu, and SLI gpu's..
The setup it would be going into is my rig in my signature. Thanks for any help/input.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> Soo, figured this might be a good place to ask a quick question..
> Looking at purchasing the RX 360 kit (and joining the club) and I'd be adding 2x GTX 470 waterblocks to the loop as well. Looking to see if anyone has had a similar setup and if the base RX 360 kit (with better fans) has enough head room for overclocked cpu, and SLI gpu's..
> The setup it would be going into is my rig in my signature. Thanks for any help/input.


I don't believe that I've seen anyone that has tired to run both the CPU and an SLI setup off of one of the kits, so all I can do is give my opinion. If it were me I'd want more Radiator than a Tri 120mm to cool a CPU and 2 GPUs, it may have enough to cool your set up but it might be a close call. I know that others have done the CPU and 1 GPU waterblock on the 360 kits, but I don't remember what their temps were like.

I hope this helps, and good luck.


----------



## Eagle1337

I'd much rather get primochill tubing myself, but from what i know the xspc stuff seems to be not too bad.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> I'd much rather get primochill tubing myself, but from what i know the xspc stuff seems to be not too bad.


Well, I know it's higher quality then the the tubing that come in the kit but I totally agree that I'd prefer PrimoChill as well and I will probably end up going with it since it's only like $10 more than adding the XSPC tubing to the kit.


----------



## chineytt

bought the primochill FLEX white, should be gettin it friday at least.


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I don't believe that I've seen anyone that has tired to run both the CPU and an SLI setup off of one of the kits, so all I can do is give my opinion. If it were me I'd want more Radiator than a Tri 120mm to cool a CPU and 2 GPUs, it may have enough to cool your set up but it might be a close call. I know that others have done the CPU and 1 GPU waterblock on the 360 kits, but I don't remember what their temps were like.
> I hope this helps, and good luck.


Thanks for the reply. Not looking for extreme overclocks on anything (considering all 3 items are currently OC'd on air) just looking to kill the stock gpu cooler fan noise and keep nice even temps across the board.. Suppose I could throw one of the old swiftech 120 rads I have laying around into the loop for good measure.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I don't believe that I've seen anyone that has tired to run both the CPU and an SLI setup off of one of the kits, so all I can do is give my opinion. If it were me I'd want more Radiator than a Tri 120mm to cool a CPU and 2 GPUs, it may have enough to cool your set up but it might be a close call. I know that others have done the CPU and 1 GPU waterblock on the 360 kits, but I don't remember what their temps were like.
> I hope this helps, and good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Not looking for extreme overclocks on anything (considering all 3 items are currently OC'd on air) just looking to kill the stock gpu cooler fan noise and keep nice even temps across the board.. Suppose I could throw one of the old swiftech 120 rads I have laying around into the loop for good measure.
Click to expand...

Well, what you have to think about in the differences between Air cooling and Water cooling is that your 3 pieces of hardware when air cooled pull in different sections of air move it across the heatsinks and blow away the heat or in the case of the GPUs exhaust it out the back of the case. When water cooling all of the heat goes into one place the water, so the more efficiently you can remove that heat from the water the better off you'll be and the better your temps will be.

Again Good Luck


----------



## kourgath

well unless the 470's put out signifigantly more heat than the 6970's i'd say it's doable, running my 2600k at 4.9 and 2 6970's off my rx360 kit. granted the cpu hits 60c under load and gpu's hit about the same so another 120 rad might be advisable if your going to overclock those quite a bit


----------



## kourgath

speaking of which, i love xspc support. pump failed fri morning and they had a new one in my hands today


----------



## chineytt

^^ u bought it when they shipped the older ones?

because i am studying now that it might fail since everyone says they eventually fail... faster than others...


----------



## kourgath

bought it in early feb, looks slightly different than the one that arrived today, electrical plug at the top side, water input as well . model i used to have had both on bottom edge


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kourgath*
> 
> well unless the 470's put out signifigantly more heat than the 6970's i'd say it's doable, running my 2600k at 4.9 and 2 6970's off my rx360 kit. granted the cpu hits 60c under load and gpu's hit about the same so another 120 rad might be advisable if your going to overclock those quite a bit


But I'd only call that doable from the point that it's keeping your stuff from overheating, 60c loaded temps is about what I always got when I was air cooling everything. So if I was going to go water cooling I'd want to gain more than just a quieter system I'd want to at least gain something in the way of temps too. Now all 3 of those being cooled by an RX360 does show just how well built that radiator and why water cooling is the way to go. Also I don't know for sure but AMD claims that their GPU's run cooler then the nVidia chips do, so I would most definitely add the extra 120 rad in if you can.


----------



## fantasyrulz

Good day mates,

Im using my XSPC Rasa rs240 kit to cool my cpu.

below is my current setup










as u can see its very space restricted...

in the future i'm thinking of cooling my dual 6950 on cf but im not sure which item to buy,

am thinking of a another 240 rad and 2 gpu waterblock... im not sure if the XSPC 750 Pump can handle all this load.

2x 240 rad 2x gpu waterblock 1x cpu block

need advice guys, how do u all deal with such issue when ur pump/res is no longer strong enough to run ur loop


----------



## kourgath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> But I'd only call that doable from the point that it's keeping your stuff from overheating, 60c loaded temps is about what I always got when I was air cooling everything. So if I was going to go water cooling I'd want to gain more than just a quieter system I'd want to at least gain something in the way of temps too. Now all 3 of those being cooled by an RX360 does show just how well built that radiator and why water cooling is the way to go. Also I don't know for sure but AMD claims that their GPU's run cooler then the nVidia chips do, so I would most definitely add the extra 120 rad in if you can.


in general yeah, but again this system is really overclocked. cpu at 4.9 and gpu's @950x1500 so getting 60c loaded temps from gpus and cpu is doing pretty good on just the rx360 kit. at 4.2 cpu and stock gpus loaded temps are about 45c so it really depends on how much of an overclock is going to be used and how much native heat the gpu's are gonna put out.


----------



## kourgath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fantasyrulz*
> 
> Good day mates,
> Im using my XSPC Rasa rs240 kit to cool my cpu.
> below is my current setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as u can see its very space restricted...
> in the future i'm thinking of cooling my dual 6950 on cf but im not sure which item to buy,
> am thinking of a another 240 rad and 2 gpu waterblock... im not sure if the XSPC 750 Pump can handle all this load.
> 2x 240 rad 2x gpu waterblock 1x cpu block
> need advice guys, how do u all deal with such issue when ur pump/res is no longer strong enough to run ur loop


definatel add another 240 rad to help with the 2 6950's but the single pump/res should be sufficient for 2 rads and 3 blocks. though i'd consider going dual loop using a smaller res/pump since res size dosn't have a lot of effect on sustained loads. friend of mine is using a rx240 and 655 pump without a res to cool his 6950's and reaches same temps i do just gets there quicker


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fantasyrulz*
> 
> Good day mates,
> 
> Im using my XSPC Rasa rs240 kit to cool my cpu.
> 
> below is my current setup
> 
> as u can see its very space restricted...
> 
> in the future i'm thinking of cooling my dual 6950 on cf but im not sure which item to buy,
> 
> am thinking of a another 240 rad and 2 gpu waterblock... im not sure if the XSPC 750 Pump can handle all this load.
> 
> 2x 240 rad 2x gpu waterblock 1x cpu block
> 
> need advice guys, how do u all deal with such issue when ur pump/res is no longer strong enough to run ur loop


The pump will push it


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kourgath*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> But I'd only call that doable from the point that it's keeping your stuff from overheating, 60c loaded temps is about what I always got when I was air cooling everything. So if I was going to go water cooling I'd want to gain more than just a quieter system I'd want to at least gain something in the way of temps too. Now all 3 of those being cooled by an RX360 does show just how well built that radiator and why water cooling is the way to go. Also I don't know for sure but AMD claims that their GPU's run cooler then the nVidia chips do, so I would most definitely add the extra 120 rad in if you can.
> 
> 
> 
> in general yeah, but again this system is really overclocked. cpu at 4.9 and gpu's @950x1500 so getting 60c loaded temps from gpus and cpu is doing pretty good on just the rx360 kit. at 4.2 cpu and stock gpus loaded temps are about 45c so it really depends on how much of an overclock is going to be used and how much native heat the gpu's are gonna put out.
Click to expand...

WoW I didn't realize you had things overclocked that far, with that in mind your temps are awesome with only one RX360 radiator!


----------



## fantasyrulz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kourgath*
> 
> definatel add another 240 rad to help with the 2 6950's but the single pump/res should be sufficient for 2 rads and 3 blocks. though i'd consider going dual loop using a smaller res/pump since res size dosn't have a lot of effect on sustained loads. friend of mine is using a rx240 and 655 pump without a res to cool his 6950's and reaches same temps i do just gets there quicker


dual loop will be kind of troublesome because of the space constraints... dont think i will be going a dual loop haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> The pump will push it


good to hear that mate, if that fails i will just add another small pump to back it


----------



## Los Hog

If you want to change out the rasa pump later I would try THIS. It will fit in the same place as a rasa res/pump and look the same but it gives you alot more pump


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fantasyrulz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kourgath*
> 
> definatel add another 240 rad to help with the 2 6950's but the single pump/res should be sufficient for 2 rads and 3 blocks. though i'd consider going dual loop using a smaller res/pump since res size dosn't have a lot of effect on sustained loads. friend of mine is using a rx240 and 655 pump without a res to cool his 6950's and reaches same temps i do just gets there quicker
> 
> 
> 
> dual loop will be kind of troublesome because of the space constraints... dont think i will be going a dual loop haha.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> The pump will push it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> good to hear that mate, if that fails i will just add another small pump to back it
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> If you want to change out the rasa pump later I would try THIS. It will fit in the same place as a rasa res/pump and look the same but it gives you alot more pump


you could do a dual loop and in a tight space it would be tricky but this might help, and it also fits in the same space as the original Pump Res footprint just 2 5.25" drive bays:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14367/ex-res-329/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_-_DDC_Dual_Pump_Dual_Split_Reservoirs_w_Dual_Pumps_Installed_-_Clear_CUSTOM-DDCBAYTWO.html?tl=g30c107s152


----------



## fantasyrulz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> If you want to change out the rasa pump later I would try THIS. It will fit in the same place as a rasa res/pump and look the same but it gives you alot more pump


Omg thanks so much you just solved my problem !


----------



## fantasyrulz

Quote:


> you could do a dual loop and in a tight space it would be tricky but this might help, and it also fits in the same space as the original Pump Res footprint just 2 5.25" drive bays:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14367/ex-res-329/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_-_DDC_Dual_Pump_Dual_Split_Reservoirs_w_Dual_Pumps_Installed_-_Clear_CUSTOM-DDCBAYTWO.html?tl=g30c107s152


Fwoah din know that there is so much variant
Of the res/pump combo !


----------



## fantasyrulz

Quote:


> you could do a dual loop and in a tight space it would be tricky but this might help, and it also fits in the same space as the original Pump Res footprint just 2 5.25" drive bays:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14367/ex-res-329/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_-_DDC_Dual_Pump_Dual_Split_Reservoirs_w_Dual_Pumps_Installed_-_Clear_CUSTOM-DDCBAYTWO.html?tl=g30c107s152


Fwoah din know that there is so much variant
Of the res/pump combo !


----------



## snorbaard

I'm busy looking at my options for watercooling, and I was wondering, what is the most the stock rasa 750 pump can handle.

Will it be able to operate safely with a rs240 and 2 single 120 radiators, with a cpu and a gpu block?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> I'm busy looking at my options for watercooling, and I was wondering, what is the most the stock rasa 750 pump can handle.
> Will it be able to operate safely with a rs240 and a 120 radiator, with a cpu and a gpu block?


It shouldn't have any problems with that, Im running a RX360+RX120, cpu and 6990 waterblock and it's doing fine


----------



## Los Hog

Here is martins take on the pump LINK


----------



## WeirdHarold

Here's another way to look at it too, the pump will move 750 Liters per hour which equals 198 Gallons per hour that's a fairly decent pump! Especially if you compare it to the best pump out there the MCP655 which pushes 1200 Liters per hour which is 317 Gallons per hour and is capable of 50 PSI. I can't find the max pressure the XSPC pump can generate but if the 655 is 50 PSI then I'd guess the XSPC is around 35 PSI, but that's just a guess.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fantasyrulz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> you could do a dual loop and in a tight space it would be tricky but this might help, and it also fits in the same space as the original Pump Res footprint just 2 5.25" drive bays:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14367/ex-res-329/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_-_DDC_Dual_Pump_Dual_Split_Reservoirs_w_Dual_Pumps_Installed_-_Clear_CUSTOM-DDCBAYTWO.html?tl=g30c107s152
> 
> 
> 
> Fwoah din know that there is so much variant
> Of the res/pump combo !
Click to expand...

Here's a link to all the different Res/pump combos that you can get have fun








the XSPC stuff is towards the bottom and more on second page!

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c107/s152/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Pumps-PumpResevoir_Combo-Page1.html


----------



## chineytt

great read on the pump there loshog!! thanks!!


----------



## identitycrisis

I'm planning on getting a Rasa Kit.

Plan is to cool just my i5 2500k for now, possibly around Christmas, I may get a GTX 580 Block for my Card as well.

Then way down the road, possibly a 2nd GTX 580 water cooled...

Now, I want a a triple radiator, My case has already been modified for one, as I had a loop a while back.

My plan is to buy the RS240 kit, and, at the same time, buy an EX360 radiator. I want the performance of the RX, but would prefer the thickness or the RS series radiators. the EX seems to fit this bill...

My question is this, can I stick with the RS, deal with the louder noise from the fans, as well as cool both a CPU with an overclock and at least a single GTX580 on the loop?

Will the EX do well? or should I just step up and get the RX? or Can I get away with the RS?


----------



## Los Hog

EX does it for me two overclocked 580s in a loop with AP-15s turned down to about 700 rpms. There keeping up with the RX rads they replaced in my case


----------



## Ias13

Long time overdue pics of my system


----------



## msgclb

I made myself a Rasa Kit. I wanted to use the RX240 radiator but it wouldn't fit so I bought the EX240 radiator along with my selection of components. I got it today and hope to install it over the weekend.


----------



## identitycrisis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> I made myself a Rasa Kit. I wanted to use the RX240 radiator but it wouldn't fit so I bought the EX240 radiator along with my selection of components. I got it today and hope to install it over the weekend.


Did it cost more than a rasa kit?


----------



## chineytt

that look way more costly, but would serve him well!!

still waiting on my primoflex so i can start my monster!


----------



## identitycrisis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> that look way more costly, but would serve him well!!
> 
> still waiting on my primoflex so i can start my monster!


Yeah I kind of put it together, it adds up quick,

I priced out an EX360, Rasa Acetal, Same res/pump combo 3 yate loons, tygon, fittings, fillport, etc... for around $250 on sidewinder computers. A lot of the stuff is on sale... I am so tempted to buy it. haha. Keep thinking the RX360 kit is the best way to go.


----------



## negrocity

Well after reading all the posts in this thread i finally caved and bought a Rasa RS240 XSPC kit about a week ago. I am expecting for it to arrive sometime next week and i am very excited to get it up and running as this will be my first build. Anywho just thought that i'd finally post something and say hi to everyone.


----------



## msgclb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *identitycrisis*
> 
> Did it cost more than a rasa kit?


I got it from Sidewinder. It cost about $90 more than the RS240 kit but I think/hope that I got a better radiator, reservoir/pump combo and cpu waterblock.
I'll soon find out.


----------



## GoodInk

I believe the performance goes from high to low RX>EX>RS. But the EX is a lot like the RX as not needing high CFM fans. But we won't know for sure until we see some reviews.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *negrocity*
> 
> Well after reading all the posts in this thread i finally caved and bought a Rasa RS240 XSPC kit about a week ago. I am expecting for it to arrive sometime next week and i am very excited to get it up and running as this will be my first build. Anywho just thought that i'd finally post something and say hi to everyone.


Hello and congrats on your Rasa kit


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451*
> 
> testing complete


----------



## GoodInk

He's cooling a CPU only with a 360 rad, he could have 800 rpm fans in there and it would be about the same temps. Try that with a GPU or two in the loop and see what the diffence would be.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *negrocity*
> 
> Well after reading all the posts in this thread i finally caved and bought a Rasa RS240 XSPC kit about a week ago. I am expecting for it to arrive sometime next week and i am very excited to get it up and running as this will be my first build. Anywho just thought that i'd finally post something and say hi to everyone.


Hello and Welcome to the party







Good luck with your build and we look forward to some pics


----------



## intermission

After thinking through this for a while, I think I have a plan how I want to do my WC system. If I had room inside I would run a 360 but I can't. So I'm going to go with the rs240 mounted to the top then have a 120 mounted in the exhaust fan location and then a 200mm mounted up front. The loop would go res pump ->CPU->240mm rad->120mm rad->GPU block->200mm rad-> back to res. I would think that would be plenty of cooling for the setup I'm running, with some room for a second GPU someday maybe.


----------



## identitycrisis

So I broke down and just ordered the RX360 Kit, also got the stuff to ad a fill port valve to the reservoir, and a T for a drain with plug, and a 3.5" fan controller with support for 8 fans.

Hopefully will be here by friday so I can I install it on my day off, as well as do some mods to my Lian Li PC-G70.

Thanks for the help folks!


----------



## chineytt

finally going to start chopping up my case tomorrow. will get some pics!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> After thinking through this for a while, I think I have a plan how I want to do my WC system. If I had room inside I would run a 360 but I can't. So I'm going to go with the rs240 mounted to the top then have a 120 mounted in the exhaust fan location and then a 200mm mounted up front. The loop would go res pump ->CPU->240mm rad->120mm rad->GPU block->200mm rad-> back to res. I would think that would be plenty of cooling for the setup I'm running, with some room for a second GPU someday maybe.


Just a thought but to help maximize your cpu temps you might want to have it pump/res - one of the rads - then the CPU - then the next rad - then GPU - last rad - back to pump/res. This way the coolant entering your CPU block just came out of a rad so it's as cool as you can get it, at least in theory.


----------



## intermission

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Just a thought but to help maximize your cpu temps you might want to have it pump/res - one of the rads - then the CPU - then the next rad - then GPU - last rad - back to pump/res. This way the coolant entering your CPU block just came out of a rad so it's as cool as you can get it, at least in theory.


I think that would work better, it would also make plumbing the system cleaner. However to plumb it that way the cpu would go to the 120 and then the gpu, and I kind of worry that it might have too much heat in it, but I've also read that the water temp is fairly constant throughout the loop so I don't know.

Another issue I worry about is that this setup doesn't allow for any exhaust fans, would this be an issue, or would the venting in the case be sufficient?


----------



## Ruggo

Got myself the RX240 kit. Damn it was a tight fit in the Thermaltake Level 10 GT. Nothing a hammer and determination didn't fix though.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Just a thought but to help maximize your cpu temps you might want to have it pump/res - one of the rads - then the CPU - then the next rad - then GPU - last rad - back to pump/res. This way the coolant entering your CPU block just came out of a rad so it's as cool as you can get it, at least in theory.
> 
> 
> 
> I think that would work better, it would also make plumbing the system cleaner. However to plumb it that way the cpu would go to the 120 and then the gpu, and I kind of worry that it might have too much heat in it, but I've also read that the water temp is fairly constant throughout the loop so I don't know.
> 
> Another issue I worry about is that this setup doesn't allow for any exhaust fans, would this be an issue, or would the venting in the case be sufficient?
Click to expand...

You can use your rad fans as exhaust fans, however if you run more intake then you have exhaust then you simply have a positive pressure system. If you do this just make sure you have enough ways for the pressure to escape, on my 800D the only fan I have set to exhaust is the rear 140mm so to ensure the air had somewhere to go I removed all of the PCI expansion slot covers. This had to bonus of encouraging the air to go out there and helps keep the air under my GTX285 moving and keeps the temps down on it as it's still air cooled. But with water cooling people don't see a huge difference in temps between pulling air through the rad from outside the case and pushing air from inside the case out through the rads.

Hope this helps


----------



## kourgath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> You can use your rad fans as exhaust fans, however if you run more intake then you have exhaust then you simply have a positive pressure system. If you do this just make sure you have enough ways for the pressure to escape, on my 800D the only fan I have set to exhaust is the rear 140mm so to ensure the air had somewhere to go I removed all of the PCI expansion slot covers. This had to bonus of encouraging the air to go out there and helps keep the air under my GTX285 moving and keeps the temps down on it as it's still air cooled. But with water cooling people don't see a huge difference in temps between pulling air through the rad from outside the case and pushing air from inside the case out through the rads.
> Hope this helps


man i'd love to get my haf-x positive pressure, but those 2 200mm fans exhausting out the top make it kinda hard. i've got a 120 intake at the bottom, 230 in front 200 on the side reversed the 140 in the rear to be intake and still have negative pressure


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Just a thought but to help maximize your cpu temps you might want to have it pump/res - one of the rads - then the CPU - then the next rad - then GPU - last rad - back to pump/res. This way the coolant entering your CPU block just came out of a rad so it's as cool as you can get it, at least in theory.
> 
> 
> 
> I think that would work better, it would also make plumbing the system cleaner. However to plumb it that way the cpu would go to the 120 and then the gpu, and I kind of worry that it might have too much heat in it, but I've also read that the water temp is fairly constant throughout the loop so I don't know.
> 
> Another issue I worry about is that this setup doesn't allow for any exhaust fans, would this be an issue, or would the venting in the case be sufficient?
Click to expand...

You are correct, the only thing that matters in loop order is the red needs to before the pump.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> finally going to start chopping up my case tomorrow. will get some pics!


Were is the pics bro


----------



## pwnography6

My rasa kit has been transplanted into my test rack. Nearly finished rigging her up I will post a few more pice when it's done


----------



## Greenback

I like the look of those test rigs but my 2 year old would have a field day getting his sticky fingers everywhere


----------



## chineytt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Were is the pics bro


----------



## chineytt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> You can use your rad fans as exhaust fans, however if you run more intake then you have exhaust then you simply have a positive pressure system. If you do this just make sure you have enough ways for the pressure to escape, on my 800D the only fan I have set to exhaust is the rear 140mm so to ensure the air had somewhere to go I removed all of the PCI expansion slot covers. This had to bonus of encouraging the air to go out there and helps keep the air under my GTX285 moving and keeps the temps down on it as it's still air cooled. But with water cooling people don't see a huge difference in temps between pulling air through the rad from outside the case and pushing air from inside the case out through the rads.
> Hope this helps


normally the water in a loop is constant. they always recommend intake for rads to get that cool air into the fins, but.. if u have another rad int he system, chances are you can run it as an exhaust because of that factor where the water temp is constant.... you can also test it and see if u notice a difference in temps.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> You can use your rad fans as exhaust fans, however if you run more intake then you have exhaust then you simply have a positive pressure system. If you do this just make sure you have enough ways for the pressure to escape, on my 800D the only fan I have set to exhaust is the rear 140mm so to ensure the air had somewhere to go I removed all of the PCI expansion slot covers. This had to bonus of encouraging the air to go out there and helps keep the air under my GTX285 moving and keeps the temps down on it as it's still air cooled. But with water cooling people don't see a huge difference in temps between pulling air through the rad from outside the case and pushing air from inside the case out through the rads.
> Hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> normally the water in a loop is constant. they always recommend intake for rads to get that cool air into the fins, but.. if u have another rad int he system, chances are you can run it as an exhaust because of that factor where the water temp is constant.... you can also test it and see if u notice a difference in temps.
Click to expand...

All I said was you could run rad fans as exhaust fans I didn't necessarily mean that was the best practice, I too would prefer to pull the cool air from outside the case through my rads and is what I'm planning on doing when I finally start putting things together. Thanks for the info though


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Were is the pics bro
Click to expand...

That's going to be one huge but awesome window


----------



## chineytt

yes it is..lol

when i finished cutting it, i was like *** did i just do LOL


----------



## Los Hog

WOW dude thats good you should do a whole build log


----------



## chineytt

^^ i plan to


----------



## chineytt

http://www.overclock.net/t/1171833/project-i7-lt-5300-build-log-liquid-titan


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1171833/project-i7-lt-5300-build-log-liquid-titan


Cool thanks for the link


----------



## Derek1387

Wow. That makes me feel a lot better about the Rasa pump/res combo... I just bought a MCP655 and that thing is huge... maybe i should just trade/sell the 655 and get another radiator....


----------



## chineytt

wat made you feel better about it bro??


----------



## Derek1387

Reading that review of the pump/res combo. Looks like it will do just fine for my needs. EX360/RS240, dual XSPC Uni GPU blocks, and a XSPC cpu block.

Now i just gotta figure out to do with this 655


----------



## kourgath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1387*
> 
> Reading that review of the pump/res combo. Looks like it will do just fine for my needs. EX360/RS240, dual XSPC Uni GPU blocks, and a XSPC cpu block.
> Now i just gotta figure out to do with this 655


get another small res and run dual loops rs 240 on the cpu and ex360 on the gpu's


----------



## G3RG

Will an rs 240 kit be plenty for a 2600k? (no gpus in loop)

will an additional 120mm rad help any?


----------



## kamikaze_

RS240 is good enough for 4.7GHz
I always look to keep my processor from hitting 80 C.
Swiftech 240mm, XSPC RS360, with a GTX 570 in the same loop, I get around 76 C. @ 100% load w/ prime95.
Six cores and 12 threads running 4.51GHz. Any higher, my X58 NB needs a chipset block.

Anyway XSPC RS240 kit would be good for a 2600K, no problems.
You can always add on another radiator if you wish.


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> RS240 is good enough for 4.7GHz
> I always look to keep my processor from hitting 80 C.
> Swiftech 240mm, XSPC RS360, with a GTX 570 in the same loop, I get around 76 C. @ 100% load w/ prime95.
> Six cores and 12 threads running 4.51GHz. Any higher, my X58 NB needs a chipset block.
> Anyway XSPC RS240 kit would be good for a 2600K, no problems.
> *You can always add on another radiator if you wish.*


Yea I guess









Thanks for the help.

Should I order different hose? I keep hearing that the stuff in the rs240 kit isn't very good for some reason.


----------



## kamikaze_

That's the benefits of using CUSTOM water cooling over enclosure water cooling (Corsair H80 for example). You can add on and run multiple loops!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1387*
> 
> Wow. That makes me feel a lot better about the Rasa pump/res combo... I just bought a MCP655 and that thing is huge... maybe i should just trade/sell the 655 and get another radiator....


Don't sell the 655 pump it's one of the if not the best pump out there and if you still want a rasa look with a bay res you could get this to put your 655 pump in:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11219/ex-res-232/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Clear_Silver_Black.html?tl=g30c97s168

It's designed to hold the 655 and still look like the Rasa res, so that way you'd get the best of both worlds if you'll excuse the pun


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G3RG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> RS240 is good enough for 4.7GHz
> I always look to keep my processor from hitting 80 C.
> Swiftech 240mm, XSPC RS360, with a GTX 570 in the same loop, I get around 76 C. @ 100% load w/ prime95.
> Six cores and 12 threads running 4.51GHz. Any higher, my X58 NB needs a chipset block.
> Anyway XSPC RS240 kit would be good for a 2600K, no problems.
> *You can always add on another radiator if you wish.*
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> Should I order different hose? I keep hearing that the stuff in the rs240 kit isn't very good for some reason.
Click to expand...

The reasons that people don't like the tubing that comes with the kits is because first off it doen't bend tightly without kinking and secondly it discolors very quickly and is no longer clear it becomes opaque or cloudy. So the answer to you question is yes it's recommended that you grab some better tubing with your kit, it seems that most like the primochill Proflex like this:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12798/ex-tub-831/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXP10-758.html?tl=g30c99s809

It also comes in a variety of colors:
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s809/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-716_ID_Tubing-Page1.html


----------



## WeirdHarold

Hey everyone if you want one heck of a laugh the you've go to check this product out and by check it out I mean read all the way through the product description I laughed so hard it brought tears to my eyes:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12579/scroll-01/The_Magic_Sleeving_Scroll.html?id=7PqezhY7


----------



## chineytt

yes the primoflex white tubing i bought is way better quality than the rasa stock tubes. the rasa stock tubes kink very easy!


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Hey everyone if you want one heck of a laugh the you've go to check this product out and by check it out I mean read all the way through the product description I laughed so hard it brought tears to my eyes:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12579/scroll-01/The_Magic_Sleeving_Scroll.html?id=7PqezhY7


Man there out of stock I was gone to buy three of them


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Hey everyone if you want one heck of a laugh the you've go to check this product out and by check it out I mean read all the way through the product description I laughed so hard it brought tears to my eyes:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12579/scroll-01/The_Magic_Sleeving_Scroll.html?id=7PqezhY7
> 
> 
> 
> Man there out of stock I was gone to buy three of them
Click to expand...

I thought someone would get a kick out of that I don't think I've laughed that hard I a while


----------



## negrocity

Well, i just finished my loop a few hours ago and thought i'd drop some pics. i plan on remounting the rad externally and applying more thermal paste tomorrow because my temps are a little high for just regular usage and the rad is purely aesthetics.







I also just ordered some white PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing so hopefully i will get that by mid next week.


----------



## chineytt

thanks for the pics!!

the white should look awesome in there with the blue heatsinks..

more TIM you say? if i may ask; what did you use? or plan to?


----------



## negrocity

I used some Arctic Silver 5, but i think i made the layer too thin. my temps are ranging around 30C-45C and i am just surfing the web... same temps as i got with stock 2600K cooler.


----------



## Boyboyd

Those are idle temps. put it under load and you should see a big difference to the stock cooler.


----------



## lsxtrkiller

run some prime 95 stress testing on that baby at 100%.. try not to cry as you see the temps soar though its a shocking experience and none should expect to experience it and be unscathed the first time....


----------



## Matt26LFC

Just purchased the Raystorm, hopefully it'll arrive in a few days so probably next weekend it'll get installed and i'll throw up some new pics of my rig.

Also picked up some PhobyaHE Grease as i hear its quite good


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *negrocity*
> 
> I used some Arctic Silver 5, but i think i made the layer too thin. my temps are ranging around 30C-45C and i am just surfing the web... same temps as i got with stock 2600K cooler.


Just be careful as more is not always better when it comes to Thermal compound, all you want is a thin layer all the way across the CPU's heat spreader! To much or not enough are both not good and will affect your temps, most agree that the best method is a pea sized drop in the middle of the CPU and then lower the block or heatsink straight down and allow the TIM to simply squeeze out to the edges.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Just purchased the Raystorm, hopefully it'll arrive in a few days so probably next weekend it'll get installed and i'll throw up some new pics of my rig.
> 
> Also picked up some PhobyaHE Grease as i hear its quite good


Both are supposed to me very good, I look forward to some pics of your new block when you get it installed


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Just purchased the Raystorm, hopefully it'll arrive in a few days so probably next weekend it'll get installed and i'll throw up some new pics of my rig.
> Also picked up some PhobyaHE Grease as i hear its quite good


I went from the rasa to the raystorm with hegrease took 5c or so off my temps


----------



## intermission

Happy thanksgiving everyone!

Thanks to Frozencpu's black Friday sale and their discount coupon I was able to order a rs240 kit for about $110 plus shipping and I also got an EK FC6870 for my graphics card. I really wanted to wait and get everything at once, but I couldn't pass up this deal. I think I might turn everything back to the stock clocks and see how it runs with the 240.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> Happy thanksgiving everyone!
> 
> Thanks to Frozencpu's black Friday sale and their discount coupon I was able to order a rs240 kit for about $110 plus shipping and I also got an EK FC6870 for my graphics card. I really wanted to wait and get everything at once, but I couldn't pass up this deal. I think I might turn everything back to the stock clocks and see how it runs with the 240.


Yep you just gotta love the Black Friday sales, I ordered all of my main system components this morning from Newegg. This is backwards from how I wanted to do it since I was going to get all of my Rasa stuff first so that when the new motherboard and so on arrived I could just hook up the water cooling loop but the deals were to good to pass up. Not just the savings on the products themselves but free shipping saved me as much as I saved on the products







I just hope that they will be shipping tomorrow cause I really don't want to wait till Monday before it actually ships.


----------



## WeirdHarold

So now comes my question, my build will be in the Little Devil PC-V8 case and I'll be mounting an EX480 Rad in the top should I pull air into the case through the rad or push the air out of the case through the rad? I only ask because if I intake through the rad the only real exhaust fan will be the 120mm fan on the back and I'd be worried about the system temps with potentially pulling all that hot air into the case, especially since my graphics card will not be water cooled for a while.

Thanks as always for any help/ideas


----------



## Greenback

if it's in the top push the air out


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> if it's in the top push the air out


that's what I figured but I wanted to check with someone as it will be my first cooling loop and I've seen some debate on the subject in the different threads.

Thanks for the quick response


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> Happy thanksgiving everyone!
> Thanks to Frozencpu's black Friday sale and their discount coupon I was able to order a rs240 kit for about $110 plus shipping and I also got an EK FC6870 for my graphics card. I really wanted to wait and get everything at once, but I couldn't pass up this deal. I think I might turn everything back to the stock clocks and see how it runs with the 240.


Where did you find the discount coupon?


----------



## intermission

I can't remember where I found it, but it's for 5% off.

The code is "pcapex" without the quotes,


----------



## chineytt

happy thxgiving yall


----------



## WeirdHarold

Happy Thanksgiving to you to sir and to everyone else as well


----------



## Derek1387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Don't sell the 655 pump it's one of the if not the best pump out there and if you still want a rasa look with a bay res you could get this to put your 655 pump in:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11219/ex-res-232/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Clear_Silver_Black.html?tl=g30c97s168
> It's designed to hold the 655 and still look like the Rasa res, so that way you'd get the best of both worlds if you'll excuse the pun


I am just looking for ways to save some money right now, and to save space... that would save space, but cost me mroe money... cuz i need a radiator and some other small things, and fans.

Anyone want to buy a spare BRAND NEW Rasa pump/res? Lol


----------



## chineytt

whats the price sir?


----------



## error-id10t

Hoping for some help / assurances.. bare with the water noob.

My current system is good, as in it doesn't run overly hot and is quiet, but I want to water-cool.. it's an itch I need to scratch. To that end, my first problem is my case as shown in the sig.. fractal R3, meaning I will more than likely need to put the rad on top of the case (saw a picture of this, didn't look too odd).

I would be cooling the 2600k and one of the 580s (CUII). This allows me to move it to the top slot as it would make it a dual-slot card and then move the Lightning to the bottom which would give it more air .. allowing that too to run cooler (let alone it won't be in the middle of a Silver Arrow and another 580!).

For the GPU I'd get the EK-FC580 DCII Acetal+EN Nickel.

I'm thinking of grabbing RX240 kit .. I would like the RX360 but I can't see how I could put that anywhere (in or outside).. ideas? This would guarantee future-proofing (new case, one that would fit it).

The concern I have is, even if this would make them run cooler (ie: ~45 degrees instead of 65 degrees), how loud is this? Both CUII and Lightning are very very quiet coolers and I'd hate to end up with a louder system somehow. Considering I'd get rid of the Silver Arrow and those 2 fans, I could possibly lower the case fan speeds too - it really should be quieter, right?

Do I need anything else besides those 2 items/kits? I keep reading here that the tubing won't be that great, but anything else (besides the actual water)? There is no full water block for the Lightning (besides that one thread / activity from Germany which appears to be WIP and expensive), so that will stay as-is.

tl;dr.. can I put a RX360 in/on Fractal R3 (or RX240) and will this be quieter than my current sig system?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Both are supposed to me very good, I look forward to some pics of your new block when you get it installed


Cheers matey, i read the skinneelabs review of the Phobyia Grease and they seemed very impressed by it and it out scored both my MX3 and Shin Etsu stuff so thought why not give it ago








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> I went from the rasa to the raystorm with hegrease took 5c or so off my temps


Really 5C? this sounds quite promising, looking forward to the upgrade even more so now







thought maybe 2C at best









Does anyone know how accurate Lamptron Fan Controller temperature sensors are? I now have a Temp monitor for my rooms ambient however im thinking of mounting a Lamptron fan controller temp sensor in the front of my Antec, inbetween the fans and the rad to measure the Rad Air Intake Temp. Is it also worth measuring the temp of the air being expelled from the Rad after its been pushed/pulled through to see how much is raised by? Or is that Data just not useful?

Im also going to try get some temp sensors in the loop itself. Thinking one on the rads exit, before it hits any blocks, and another in the tube after it exits the CPU which is the last block in my loop.

Any thoughts ideas most welcome

Matt


----------



## Los Hog

You can put the rad on top or on the back with something like THIS its made for a 360 rad but they make them for 240 rads also.
As far the noise I use some good fans like AP-15s or Yate loons hook them to a fan controller and turn the fan speed down. In my case I have 16 AP-15s I turn them all down to about 700 rpms very low noise and I still have good cooling


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Both are supposed to me very good, I look forward to some pics of your new block when you get it installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers matey, i read the skinneelabs review of the Phobyia Grease and they seemed very impressed by it and it out scored both my MX3 and Shin Etsu stuff so thought why not give it ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> I went from the rasa to the raystorm with hegrease took 5c or so off my temps
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Really 5C? this sounds quite promising, looking forward to the upgrade even more so now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thought maybe 2C at best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how accurate Lamptron Fan Controller temperature sensors are? I now have a Temp monitor for my rooms ambient however im thinking of mounting a Lamptron fan controller temp sensor in the front of my Antec, inbetween the fans and the rad to measure the Rad Air Intake Temp. Is it also worth measuring the temp of the air being expelled from the Rad after its been pushed/pulled through to see how much is raised by? Or is that Data just not useful?
> 
> Im also going to try get some temp sensors in the loop itself. Thinking one on the rads exit, before it hits any blocks, and another in the tube after it exits the CPU which is the last block in my loop.
> 
> Any thoughts ideas most welcome
> 
> Matt
Click to expand...

I have a lamptron touch LINK it comes with six temp probes but I replaced two of the probes with THESE so I could watch the water temp also







there not dead on but close


----------



## Greenback

got 1 of the lamptron touch fan controller in the post today just got to get around to setting it up


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> got 1 of the lamptron touch fan controller in the post today just got to get around to setting it up


I love mine the only thing i can say bad about them is my fingers are to big to controll the fan speed like I want so I stole a stylus from my sons DS hehe. That makes it easy to work the screen


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I have a lamptron touch LINK it comes with six temp probes but I replaced two of the probes with THESE so I could watch the water temp also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there not dead on but close


Cheers matey. I do already have a sensor i can use for the loop, bought it a while ago, but as i don't know how these things work i wasn't sure if the Lamptron controller would be able to interpret the info its being sent from the sensor. Or do they all generally work in the same way measuring temps and thus more or less all compatiable with each other?

Think its this one i've got


----------



## Los Hog

Should work good


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I have a lamptron touch LINK it comes with six temp probes but I replaced two of the probes with THESE so I could watch the water temp also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there not dead on but close
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers matey. I do already have a sensor i can use for the loop, bought it a while ago, but as i don't know how these things work i wasn't sure if the Lamptron controller would be able to interpret the info its being sent from the sensor. Or do they all generally work in the same way measuring temps and thus more or less all compatiable with each other?
> 
> Think its this one i've got
Click to expand...

Easiest way to think of this type of temp sensor is: It's a resistor that is temp sensitive and when the temp changes the resistance also changes, so as the temp changes the amount of voltage that the resistor allows to pass through the circuit changes which is what gives you your reading. So all you need is something that has been made to work with that type of sensor and you're good, probably any of the mainstream fan controllers that come with temp sensors will work. They may not read different temp sensors perfectly because the different companies may have different ways/temps that they calibrate their stuff at, but they should always be with in a few degrees of one another.


----------



## rdfloyd

Just ordered a RX240 from FrozenCPU. Shipped a couple hours after the order. Can't wait!

@OP: FrozenCPU also carries the RX240 and RX360. Might want to update that.


----------



## deafboy

My 360 kit along with other parts shipped earlier today


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> My 360 kit along with other parts shipped earlier today


Kool deal


----------



## IXcrispyXI

Hi i was wondering how much better would a wc loop be (rs240 or rx240 not sure yet) compared to my silver arrow? The main worry i have is that our summer gets pretty hot (have seen my room at 49c before) just wondering would it still perform better then my current cooler?


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IXcrispyXI*
> 
> Hi i was wondering how much better would a wc loop be (rs240 or rx240 not sure yet) compared to my silver arrow? The main worry i have is that our summer gets pretty hot (have seen my room at 49c before) just wondering would it still perform better then my current cooler?


yes it outperform the silver arrow, i use to have the silver arrow before i got this Rasa RX240 kit. and i saw a 10-12c degrees drop in load temps and 3-5c degrees on idle, it's definitely way better then the silver arrow. get it you won't be disappointed







.


----------



## intermission

I'm hopping my kit will be here Monday, I have the day off so it would be perfect.


----------



## dimwit13

well i have my system up and running, but the pump is making a rattling noise, so i send XSPC a email.
seems to cool well-i like it and will recomend it to anyone.
i did replace the 1/2" tubing with 3/8" tubing, and the barbs.


































not the best pictures, but you get the picture-lol
the build log is "Not a HTPC" in sig

-dimwit-

thinking of getting the rx360 for my FM2/Trinity/HTPC/Gaming/Media Center/Tech Station build early next year.


----------



## Los Hog

I love your case it looks great







I dont know how long you have been running your pump but if there is any air in the system it will make some noise i would try tilting the case back and forth with the pump running and see if the noise level changes but if this does not help here is the LINK to email them and most times they want a short video of the pump running so be ready for that


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I love your case it looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know how long you have been running your pump but if there is any air in the system it will make some noise i would try tilting the case back and forth with the pump running and see if the noise level changes but if this does not help here is the LINK to email them and most times they want a short video of the pump running so be ready for that


thanks.
the pump has been running for 2 weeks+ and i have shook the pump/rez/case to make sure there was no air in the line. (i am familiar with WC systems-this is my 4th)
there is a little air in the rez, but this shouldnt cause the noise.
thanks for the link, but i have already sent them an email-i have also mentioned a video. (i did some research on the pump problem and RMA process before i emailed them)

again, thanks for the info-i will let you know how the RMA goes.

-dimwit-


----------



## WeirdHarold

I love how that case looks, I've seen alot of cases made from or using wood and this is the first one I've seen that really look good. But if you don't mind me asking, what did the case start off as? It looks like you took a case and attached the wood to the outside of the case, is that what you did?

Two Thumbs up


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I love how that case looks, I've seen alot of cases made from or using wood and this is the first one I've seen that really look good. But if you don't mind me asking, what did the case start off as? It looks like you took a case and attached the wood to the outside of the case, is that what you did?
> Two Thumbs up


Thanks
the case was a Cooler Master Storm Scout.
i tried to keep the style the same-hence the handles on top.
i just used the outside frame and the sides-i threw out the bay cages and all the plastic from the outside.
if you check out my build log, you can see my bamboo case.
i just used the MB tray from a Kandalf case when i made that one.
i have also just veneered the outside of one with ash veneer.

-dimwit-

i want to build a entertainment center for my big screen and a built in HTPC.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I love how that case looks, I've seen alot of cases made from or using wood and this is the first one I've seen that really look good. But if you don't mind me asking, what did the case start off as? It looks like you took a case and attached the wood to the outside of the case, is that what you did?
> Two Thumbs up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> the case was a Cooler Master Storm Scout.
> i tried to keep the style the same-hence the handles on top.
> i just used the outside frame and the sides-i threw out the bay cages and all the plastic from the outside.
> if you check out my build log, you can see my bamboo case.
> i just used the MB tray from a Kandalf case when i made that one.
> i have also just veneered the outside of one with ash veneer.
> 
> -dimwit-
> 
> i want to build a entertainment center for my big screen and a built in HTPC.
Click to expand...

Building the HTPC into your entertainment center is an absolutely AWESOME idea


----------



## chineytt

check my link guys for the xspc build!

i booted at 2am and saw the cpu idling at 25c @ 4.5ghz 1.35v
under 100% across 4 cores using linx i got no higher than 50c literally...did blue screen once but that was because i tried doing something with linx was in operation... stuoid i know!
well the gpu is idling at 30c as well.....

man this is going good

loving xspc so far..
stay tunedddddddd


----------



## CramComplex

Hi guys so I dismantled my loop coz i just got an i5 2500k and a now case and mobo...

My old RS240 is sitting under some lights to dry them out and I have an RX120 on stand-by for my HD6950 full cover block...

But in the mean time...can an RX120 with the 720 pump/res with 2 ap15's in P/P get my 2500k to 4.5++?

Thanks for the replies...I'll be testing my rig on air for the mean time and will be installing the entire loop by next week...


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Easiest way to think of this type of temp sensor is: It's a resistor that is temp sensitive and when the temp changes the resistance also changes, so as the temp changes the amount of voltage that the resistor allows to pass through the circuit changes which is what gives you your reading. So all you need is something that has been made to work with that type of sensor and you're good, probably any of the mainstream fan controllers that come with temp sensors will work. They may not read different temp sensors perfectly because the different companies may have different ways/temps that they calibrate their stuff at, but they should always be with in a few degrees of one another.


Cheers for that response matey, that was most helpful. It sounds like it'll be ok then, when i get more time and money i'll probably invest in some sort of system that can very accuratley monitor temps at various points in the loop so i know just how effieciently things are running.

Rep points to you sir


----------



## chineytt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex*
> 
> Hi guys so I dismantled my loop coz i just got an i5 2500k and a now case and mobo...
> 
> My old RS240 is sitting under some lights to dry them out and I have an RX120 on stand-by for my HD6950 full cover block...
> 
> But in the mean time...can an RX120 with the 720 pump/res with 2 ap15's in P/P get my 2500k to 4.5++?
> 
> Thanks for the replies...I'll be testing my rig on air for the mean time and will be installing the entire loop by next week...


yes it can bro....with the rs240 and rx120


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> well i have my system up and running, but the pump is making a rattling noise, so i send XSPC a email.
> seems to cool well-i like it and will recomend it to anyone.
> i did replace the 1/2" tubing with 3/8" tubing, and the barbs.
> 
> not the best pictures, but you get the picture-lol
> the build log is "Not a HTPC" in sig
> -dimwit-
> thinking of getting the rx360 for my FM2/Trinity/HTPC/Gaming/Media Center/Tech Station build early next year.


Is your res all the way full? In the pics it is only half full. The pump will make noise unless the res is all the way full.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *negrocity*
> 
> I used some Arctic Silver 5, but i think i made the layer too thin. my temps are ranging around 30C-45C and i am just surfing the web... same temps as i got with stock 2600K cooler.


Have you worked this out yet? I thought I might ask as a few have done this and couldn't figure out what was going on, but you did remove the plastic covering the block? I think most times this happens is because they just can't wait to get the thing up and running.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE*
> 
> Is your res all the way full? In the pics it is only half full. The pump will make noise unless the res is all the way full.


it is about 95% full, just looks half full in the pictures.
i just topped it off and still getting the rattling noise.
i got a reply from XSPC and now i just need to send in a video.

-dimwit-


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *spRICE*
> 
> Is your res all the way full? In the pics it is only half full. The pump will make noise unless the res is all the way full.
> 
> 
> 
> it is about 95% full, just looks half full in the pictures.
> i just topped it off and still getting the rattling noise.
> i got a reply from XSPC and now i just need to send in a video.
> 
> -dimwit-
Click to expand...

Don't use youtube, they are in China and its blocked


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Easiest way to think of this type of temp sensor is: It's a resistor that is temp sensitive and when the temp changes the resistance also changes, so as the temp changes the amount of voltage that the resistor allows to pass through the circuit changes which is what gives you your reading. So all you need is something that has been made to work with that type of sensor and you're good, probably any of the mainstream fan controllers that come with temp sensors will work. They may not read different temp sensors perfectly because the different companies may have different ways/temps that they calibrate their stuff at, but they should always be with in a few degrees of one another.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for that response matey, that was most helpful. It sounds like it'll be ok then, when i get more time and money i'll probably invest in some sort of system that can very accuratley monitor temps at various points in the loop so i know just how effieciently things are running.
> 
> Rep points to you sir
Click to expand...

Hey No Worries, and you are most welcome


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Don't use youtube, they are in China and its blocked


scratch head?????
do you mean dont send them a you tube video?
i was just going to send them a attachment with the email.

-dimwit-


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> yes it can bro....with the rs240 and rx120


Wait...what? So with just the RX120 the loop won't drop temps as well as an RS240?

The new case that I have is the 650D and I want to know if the RX120 single rad in [P] can out-perform a single RS240 in [P].

I tried fitting a [P/P] config on the RX120 and it's too phat for the rear or top positions and won't fit the front since there are no 120mm mounting holes in the front of the 650D...

God dammnit...looks like I'll have to revert back to using an RS240 on the top with [P] only as [P/P] REALLY doesn't fit the case....FFS...

Oh well...looks like I'll be modding my CM690II...thanks for the reply.


----------



## chineytt

wait.. why not jus do push on both the rs and rx.... would work good....but your miles may vary in truth

here is what i am doing with my XSPC kit and i am extremely satisfied!










check my sig for the build thread so u can see exactly what i did


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Don't use youtube, they are in China and its blocked
> 
> 
> 
> scratch head?????
> do you mean dont send them a you tube video?
> i was just going to send them a attachment with the email.
> 
> -dimwit-
Click to expand...

Well that works if you can. But yes, I when I did it (one of the first ones) I uploaded the video to youtube


----------



## spRICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> it is about 95% full, just looks half full in the pictures.
> i just topped it off and still getting the rattling noise.
> i got a reply from XSPC and now i just need to send in a video.
> -dimwit-


HAHA at first I thought you were calling me a dimwit


----------



## chineytt

http://3dmark.com/3dmv/3687134










xspc is doing me well!!!


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> http://3dmark.com/3dmv/3687134
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> xspc is doing me well!!!


There is something wrong with your LinX run, you should be getting well over 100 Gflops. Temperatures might be a bit higher when Linx is running properly.


----------



## Boyboyd

Yeah i got 65 without the new binaries.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Intel burn test seems to work better on SB. My 2600K gets 95 gflops at only 4.2GHz! I haven't had time to really overclock yet


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Well that works if you can. But yes, I when I did it (one of the first ones) I uploaded the video to youtube


i received a reply back, i just need to send the invoice, which i just did, and they will send me a new pump.
the pump is a lot louder in the video i took.
did you have to pay for shipping when you returned the broken one?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE*
> 
> HAHA at first I thought you were calling me a dimwit


just me baby, just me-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## GoodInk

He didn't make me send mine in, but I'm in the AF and was stationed in Honduras when it happened.


----------



## chineytt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Yeah i got 65 without the new binaries.


would appreciate the help


----------



## Boyboyd

I'm afraid i can't, i don't know much about linpack but it isn't really a benchmark as much as a stability test. RAM speed, and amount affect it.

A better benchmark would be something like cinebench, or fritzchess.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Well that works if you can. But yes, I when I did it (one of the first ones) I uploaded the video to youtube
> 
> 
> 
> i received a reply back, i just need to send the invoice, which i just did, and they will send me a new pump.
> the pump is a lot louder in the video i took.
> did you have to pay for shipping when you returned the broken one?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *spRICE*
> 
> HAHA at first I thought you were calling me a dimwit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> just me baby, just me-lol
> 
> -dimwit-
Click to expand...

They sent me a new one only took three day and never asked for the old one back


----------



## intermission

I know the TIM that comes with the kit isn't the greatest, but is it non-conductive?


----------



## Murlocke

I've been hearing many of the kits do not come with enough screws for all the fans?

My RX360 will be coming soon... if this is true, what size of screws do I need?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> They sent me a new one only took three day and never asked for the old one back


that would be great, i hate having to pay shipping, and insurance, when i have to send something back, when it is thier fault it is not working.
it doesnt really bother me if i am returning something i dont want or i caused the damage-but it is never my fault-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## dimwit13

DOH!!!

-dimwit-


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murlocke*
> 
> I've been hearding many of the kits do not come with enough screws for all the fans?
> 
> My RX360 will be coming soon... if this is true, what size of screws do I need?


XSPC Rads run a 6/32 thread for the fan screws so these should be just what the doctor ordered:
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g55/c525/s1484/list/p1/Screws-Screws_by_Length-1_18_Long_6-32_thrd-Page1.html


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> XSPC Rads run a 6/32 thread for the fan screws so these should be just what the doctor ordered:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g55/c525/s1484/list/p1/Screws-Screws_by_Length-1_18_Long_6-32_thrd-Page1.html


Thanks.. hopefully I don't need to pay to get those shipped out. I refuse to believe a $190 kit would not come with $2 screws.

Side note: How do you like your 800D? I just bought mine.. coming tomorrow. Friend is telling me i'm crazy for blowing $260 on a case.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murlocke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> XSPC Rads run a 6/32 thread for the fan screws so these should be just what the doctor ordered:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g55/c525/s1484/list/p1/Screws-Screws_by_Length-1_18_Long_6-32_thrd-Page1.html
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.. hopefully I don't need to pay to get those shipped out. I refuse to believe a $190 kit would not come with $2 screws.
> 
> Side note: How do you like your 800D? I just bought mine.. coming tomorrow. Friend is telling me i'm crazy for blowing $260 on a case.
Click to expand...

I've absolutely LOVED it and I've never truly regretted getting it







you're water cooling from the get go so you shouldn't have any issues with it, cause it's only down side it air cooling related.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murlocke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> XSPC Rads run a 6/32 thread for the fan screws so these should be just what the doctor ordered:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g55/c525/s1484/list/p1/Screws-Screws_by_Length-1_18_Long_6-32_thrd-Page1.html
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.. hopefully I don't need to pay to get those shipped out. I refuse to believe a $190 kit would not come with $2 screws.
> 
> Side note: How do you like your 800D? I just bought mine.. coming tomorrow. Friend is telling me i'm crazy for blowing $260 on a case.
Click to expand...

You can go to Ace and pick up some screws, but the kit does come with screws.


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I've absolutely LOVED it and I've never truly regretted getting it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you're water cooling from the get go so you shouldn't have any issues with it, cause it's only down side it air cooling related.


I'm still using stock cooling on my GPU... but there's a fan right there so hopefully thats not an issue.


----------



## RonB94GT

I'm changing cases and need to redo loop. I forgot what size tubing I need (sorry). 1/2" or 3/8"?


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*
> 
> I'm changing cases and need to redo loop. I forgot what size tubing I need (sorry). 1/2" or 3/8"?


Errr, neither. 7/16" i think.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*
> 
> I'm changing cases and need to redo loop. I forgot what size tubing I need (sorry). 1/2" or 3/8"?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Errr, neither. 7/16" i think.


they have stock 1/2" barbs.
you can either use 1/2" ID or for a tighter seal 7/16" ID.

-dimwit-


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*
> 
> I'm changing cases and need to redo loop. I forgot what size tubing I need (sorry). 1/2" or 3/8"?
> 
> 
> 
> Errr, neither. 7/16" i think.
Click to expand...

He is right if you are staying with the same size tubing that the kit came with its 7/16


----------



## rdfloyd

I think I made a mistake...I ordered 3/8" ID tube (Feser White) because it was on sale for $1/foot. Is that going to fit or will I have to use the 7/16" tube in the kit?

I am ok with cutting the tube if I need to replace something. I never reuse tubing (learned that from a very unpleasant experience involving me crawling under our house to fix a leak).


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> He is right if you are staying with the same size tubing that the kit came with its 7/16


You're right I just found a old pcs and measured it. Orange is not available it 7/16"


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> I think I made a mistake...I ordered 3/8" ID tube (Feser White) because it was on sale for $1/foot. Is that going to fit or will I have to use the 7/16" tube in the kit?
> I am ok with cutting the tube if I need to replace something. I never reuse tubing (learned that from a very unpleasant experience involving me crawling under our house to fix a leak).


you can use 3/8 tubing on 1/2" barbs just dip the end in warm water for a couple of seconds, it what I have on my gpu block 3/8id 5/8 od


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> you can use 3/8 tubing on 1/2" barbs just dip the end in warm water for a couple of seconds, it what I have on my gpu block 3/8id 5/8 od


Phew. Should I still use the clamps?

Also, how nice are the clamps that come with the XSPC kit? Would it look better to use zip ties or the chrome screw-type chokes from a hardware store?


----------



## chineytt

clamps dont look to bad honestly...actually, if u set them in uniform positions, its looks pretty decent


----------



## golfergolfer

umm I don't know if this has ever been asked but will the RASA kits ever come with the RAYSTORM CPU block?


----------



## Los Hog

I heard that they will start making the a rasa kit with a raystorm and a EX rad and better tubing. Dont know how true this is but if they do it would make a great kit


----------



## WeirdHarold

It would make an Awesome Kit, one worthy of song and legend (well, maybe that's overstating things a bit) LoL


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

I have a philosophical question. If I change the pump, add a rad, and two GPU blocks, does it still count to be in the club??


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r*
> 
> I have a philosophical question. If I change the pump, add a rad, and two GPU blocks, does it still count to be in the club??


My answer probably doesn't count as I'm not the thread starter or even actually in the club yet, but I'd say since you started out with a rasa kit that qualified you for the club end of discussion. But that's just my thoughts on the subject


----------



## WeirdHarold

So here's an interesting question:

The fans that come in the kits, are they the same as the XSPC fans that you can buy say at FrozenCPU? I'm asking because what I will be doing is getting the RS240 kit and replacing the 240 rad with the EX480 Rad and I will need 2 more fans. So I need to know if I need to get just 2 fans or all 4. The kit fans are listed as 1700rpm and the ones you can buy are listed as 1650rpm so that's where I got confused and what caused this question.

Thanks for any help


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So here's an interesting question:
> The fans that come in the kits, are they the same as the XSPC fans that you can buy say at FrozenCPU? I'm asking because what I will be doing is getting the RS240 kit and replacing the 240 rad with the EX480 Rad and I will need 2 more fans. So I need to know if I need to get just 2 fans or all 4. The kit fans are listed as 1700rpm and the ones you can buy are listed as 1650rpm so that's where I got confused and what caused this question.
> Thanks for any help


I'm not sure about the answer to your question, but what I am doing (when everything gets here) is installing the 2 fans that come with the kit on opposite sides of a radiator, then taking two more identical fans (Yate Loons) and doing the same with those. That way there are two identical fans and they aren't producing different CFMs.


----------



## Yukss

here is my rig


----------



## rdfloyd

It has arrived!!! If only I didn't have a lab final on Thursday.....









I'll post unpacking pictures once I am finished with this Philosophy test. *bleh*


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> here is my rig


I have the same chair!


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

I used to have that chair but I had to get rid of it, did a number on my shoulders and forearms, just didnt fit...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So here's an interesting question:
> The fans that come in the kits, are they the same as the XSPC fans that you can buy say at FrozenCPU? I'm asking because what I will be doing is getting the RS240 kit and replacing the 240 rad with the EX480 Rad and I will need 2 more fans. So I need to know if I need to get just 2 fans or all 4. The kit fans are listed as 1700rpm and the ones you can buy are listed as 1650rpm so that's where I got confused and what caused this question.
> Thanks for any help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure about the answer to your question, but what I am doing (when everything gets here) is installing the 2 fans that come with the kit on opposite sides of a radiator, then taking two more identical fans (Yate Loons) and doing the same with those. That way there are two identical fans and they aren't producing different CFMs.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I emailed XSPC with the same question but who know how long it will take to get an answer back so thought it wouldn't hurt to post the question in here too. I'll probably just use the 2 that come in the kit and 2 of the XSPC fans you can buy because this is just until I can start to replace them with AP-15's. No one has the Gentle Typhoon's in stock right now so I need a low cost alternative for a while so I don't have to wait who knows how long to get my loop going.


----------



## intermission

Just got my kit today, and installed it. I just realized there's no cap for the reservoir with it. Does the cap some installed or is it one of the boxes somewhere. I looked through everything, but cant find it.

Edit: pics added

I can't believe hoe much cooler the card is, in furmark with the stock cooler I would hit 73c, not I'm hitting 52c at the same settings. With prime95 I went 62c to 50c. I still need to add my 200mm rad, but the differences are already extremely noticable


















I know some of the tubes are long, but I just wanted to get it up and running.


----------



## GoodInk

Looks good, the cap should have been on the res. You might want to run 3 threads of prime and furmark to max your system out to see if your temps will hold with out the 200mm rad.


----------



## intermission

I just tried it, the temps keep creeping up, While they are still well within the safe range, I'd like to get the temps down as far as possible. I'm addicted to this water cooling stuff now. I wanna see how low it will go


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> I just tried it, the temps keep creeping up, While they are still well within the safe range, I'd like to get the temps down as far as possible. I'm addicted to this water cooling stuff now. I wanna see how low it will go


Your build looks great








Did you tilt the case back and forth to make sure all the air is out of the rad and blocks?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Two Thumbs Up, way way Up














Great looking build


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So here's an interesting question:
> The fans that come in the kits, are they the same as the XSPC fans that you can buy say at FrozenCPU? I'm asking because what I will be doing is getting the RS240 kit and replacing the 240 rad with the EX480 Rad and I will need 2 more fans. So I need to know if I need to get just 2 fans or all 4. The kit fans are listed as 1700rpm and the ones you can buy are listed as 1650rpm so that's where I got confused and what caused this question.
> Thanks for any help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure about the answer to your question, but what I am doing (when everything gets here) is installing the 2 fans that come with the kit on opposite sides of a radiator, then taking two more identical fans (Yate Loons) and doing the same with those. That way there are two identical fans and they aren't producing different CFMs.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So here's an interesting question:
> The fans that come in the kits, are they the same as the XSPC fans that you can buy say at FrozenCPU? I'm asking because what I will be doing is getting the RS240 kit and replacing the 240 rad with the EX480 Rad and I will need 2 more fans. So I need to know if I need to get just 2 fans or all 4. The kit fans are listed as 1700rpm and the ones you can buy are listed as 1650rpm so that's where I got confused and what caused this question.
> Thanks for any help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure about the answer to your question, but what I am doing (when everything gets here) is installing the 2 fans that come with the kit on opposite sides of a radiator, then taking two more identical fans (Yate Loons) and doing the same with those. That way there are two identical fans and they aren't producing different CFMs.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks, I emailed XSPC with the same question but who know how long it will take to get an answer back so thought it wouldn't hurt to post the question in here too. I'll probably just use the 2 that come in the kit and 2 of the XSPC fans you can buy because this is just until I can start to replace them with AP-15's. No one has the Gentle Typhoon's in stock right now so I need a low cost alternative for a while so I don't have to wait who knows how long to get my loop going.
Click to expand...

Ok so I got a response from XSPC about the fans and they say and I quote:

"Yes, they are same.
>
> We also have 1200rpm one at the retail shops. It is quieter, but less CFM. You can choose what you like.
>
> Best Regards
> Dazhong"

So if you get a kit and want extra fans at a great price to do push pull you can just grab these and they are the same as the ones that you get in the kit even thought the kit says it comes with 1700 rpm fans they are really the 1650 rpm fans.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14319/fan-913/XSPC_120mm_x_25mm_Radiator_Chassis_Fan_-_1650_RPM.html?tl=g36c15s60


----------



## intermission

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Your build looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you tilt the case back and forth to make sure all the air is out of the rad and blocks?


I did as much as I felt comfortable with since I'm using a piece of duct tap to covor the res hole until I get the cap from XSPC.


----------



## WeirdHarold

So lets talk Compression fittings! Is there any advantage to rotary fittings or should I save the money and get the stationary versions? I ask mainly because I see the place where the rotary ones can rotate as being one more possible leak down the road or am I mistaken on that?

Also lets talk Tubing! Which is the better side wall thickness the 1/16 inch or the 1/8 inch? Cause I'm sure not using the stuff that comes in the kit









Edit: Never mind on the tubing, just realized I was looking at 3/8" ID tubing and not 7/16" ID tubing, and on the 7/16" tubing there is only a 3/32" thickness!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> I just tried it, the temps keep creeping up, While they are still well within the safe range, I'd like to get the temps down as far as possible. I'm addicted to this water cooling stuff now. I wanna see how low it will go


That's pretty normal for water, it takes about 20 mins for mine to stop creeping up, and that is pretty impressive for what looks to be a RS240 cooling a CPU and GPU.


----------



## intermission

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> That's pretty normal for water, it takes about 20 mins for mine to stop creeping up, and that is pretty impressive for what looks to be a RS240 cooling a CPU and GPU.


Oh, ok good to know. After about 30 min of running both the CPU is at 54 and the GPU is at 60. That's with the 965 overclocked to 4.2ghx @ 1.54 vcore, and the gpu overclocked at 1035 mhz core 1090 mhz memory. Like you said it is pretty impressive for a rs240, especially considering most people said I'd have to have an rx360.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So lets talk Compression fittings! Is there any advantage to rotary fittings or should I save the money and get the stationary versions? I ask mainly because I see the place where the rotary ones can rotate as being one more possible leak down the road or am I mistaken on that?


Yes there are advantages,
rotary fittings will help prevent any chance of kinking the tubing plus aid in reducing the amount of tubing it takes to get from point A to point B.
IMHO the finished loop will look better (more flowing in appearance) and place less torque on the other fittings when tube lengths get shorter. Less torque = less chance of stress on fittings (leaking) becoming an issue over time.

I've been running these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7928/ex-tub-372/Bitspower_G14_Silver_Shining_Rotary_45_Degree_G14_Adapter_BP-45R.html?tl=g30c497s1360 since 2-1-11 without any issues. I researched this "do rotary fittings leak" questions for a week before my purchase and have been very pleased with how they perform and the over all change in the loops appearance.

Hope this helps answer your question!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Sorry if my original post wasn't clear, I'm going to use Compression fittings either way for the clean look I was just wondering about the Rotary part. You did answer my question though that they help to stop the tubes from kinking, I'm going to need to use non rotary straight compression fittings in 2 places as space is at a premium in those areas. The other end of those tubes will be hooked to a rotary fitting so that should still help with kinking. I'm going to use the Bitspower fittings mostly for their look, just liked them better then the others I looked at.

Thanks for the reply


----------



## Los Hog

I know with regular compression fittings the whole fitting will come out of a block if you over tighten the tubing cover part of it twisting the tubing all up







So I could see were the rotary ones might be better for that


----------



## rdfloyd

Hey guys, I looked on the internet for an answer, but I couldn't find anything. In one of the bags that come with the kit, there are 4 bent aluminum "S" shape pieces. Can anyone enlighten me as to what those are? #clueless


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Hey guys, I looked on the internet for an answer, but I couldn't find anything. In one of the bags that come with the kit, there are 4 bent aluminum "S" shape pieces. Can anyone enlighten me as to what those are? #clueless


they are brackets to mount the Rad outside the case!

like this guy did but it can also be mounted to the back of the case!


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> they are brackets to mount the Rad outside the case!
> like this guy did but it can also be mounted to the back of the case!
> 
> -snip-


Ohhhhh! Now I don't have to worry about building a bracket to hold the radiator up. Thanks, +REP.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> they are brackets to mount the Rad outside the case!
> like this guy did but it can also be mounted to the back of the case!
> 
> -snip-
> 
> 
> 
> Ohhhhh! Now I don't have to worry about building a bracket to hold the radiator up. Thanks, +REP.
Click to expand...

Hey No Worries


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> umm I don't know if this has ever been asked but will the RASA kits ever come with the RAYSTORM CPU block?


XSPC does have a RayStorm kit with the new EX radiators. So far all I could find are the RayStorm EX360 kit's for AMD and Intel.

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/search.php?substring=XSPC+Raystorm


----------



## Los Hog

I was told those kits are put together by specialtech not xspc.


----------



## Greenback

on the specialtech forums
XSPC - Paul : This kit isn't one we are shipping direct from XSPC. It's something the good guys at Specialtech have put together


----------



## dimwit13

so i live in the pacific northwest.
i ordered a external dvd burner and a hdmi cable-shipped from california on monday (1200 miles), received today (4 days)
getting a replacement pump/rez shipped from Hong Kong on yesterday (6,487 miles) will receive on friday (3 days)

gotta love the UPS-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> XSPC does have a RayStorm kit with the new EX radiators. So far all I could find are the RayStorm EX360 kit's for AMD and Intel.
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/search.php?substring=XSPC+Raystorm


So what's new with those EX radiators? On their site they show it as:

Radiator XSPC EX360
Radiator Dimensions 410 x 125 x 58.5mm

Which is the same size as the RX360, right? The one I can find locally shows it's size to be:

•Dimensions: 121 x 35.5 x 395mm (WxDxH)

So I'm confused what is new in this package they created, besides the CPU block?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> XSPC does have a RayStorm kit with the new EX radiators. So far all I could find are the RayStorm EX360 kit's for AMD and Intel.
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/search.php?substring=XSPC+Raystorm
> 
> 
> 
> So what's new with those EX radiators? On their site they show it as:
> 
> Radiator XSPC EX360
> Radiator Dimensions 410 x 125 x 58.5mm
> 
> Which is the same size as the RX360, right? The one I can find locally shows it's size to be:
> 
> •Dimensions: 121 x 35.5 x 395mm (WxDxH)
> 
> So I'm confused what is new in this package they created, besides the CPU block?
Click to expand...

The EX Rads are designed to be thin like the RS Rads but give the Performance of the RX Rads ! The are a low profile version of the RX series is a good way to look at it


----------



## GoodInk

Off XSPC's site, highlighted the 2 main points,

"Introducing a new generation of performance PC radiators. *The EX series combines the low profile design of our RS series radiators with the high performance of our award winning RX series*. This feat has been possible due to several manufacturing advances including, split fins, improved soldering techniques, and welded seam tubes. *The EX series has been designed and optimised for low speed fans, so it can offer high performance cooling at very low noise levels.*"

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/


----------



## jedi304

Hey guys, I've been thinking about buying the RS240 kit + full GPU block. Would it be able to properly cool my CPU + GPU?


----------



## intermission

I know others have said this in the thread before, but I still can't believe how quickly the stock tubing starts to look bad. Even after just a few hours I could tell the difference, now it's been a few days and you can't even see through it.

Whenever I order my second rad I'm definitely picking up some better tubing.


----------



## GoodInk

Is it hazy or colored? A few hours sounds like you didn't flush the rad good enough or with hot enough water and you are getting flux on your tubes. I'm not a big fan of the shake method. I like the running water method better. I just tape, electrical, the tubing to my sink and run hot water through my rad for 15 mins. When I dump the rad out, I filter it through a paper towel to see any discoloration and flakes. If I see any I flush more. I got the idea from here

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jedi304*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been thinking about buying the RS240 kit + full GPU block. Would it be able to properly cool my CPU + GPU?


Yes it will unless you have a videocard that has two gpu's on one card like a gtx590


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jedi304*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been thinking about buying the RS240 kit + full GPU block. Would it be able to properly cool my CPU + GPU?


for your cpu and gpu you will want more then an rs240 if you want to oc with good temps


----------



## The Sandman

Is it safe to lay a Rasa system on it's side to do some work inside the case? Or better to drain the system first, I've never been sure about this. Have a few hours of of work to do and it will require I lay the case on it's backside.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Is it safe to lay a Rasa system on it's side to do some work inside the case? Or better to drain the system first, I've never been sure about this. Have a few hours of of work to do and it will require I lay the case on it's backside.


I would say it will be fine as long as your not running it if it hasn't leaked yet then it's not going to though I would check the fill port on the res and mayb put a bit of kitchen towel over it as I think that would be the most lightly place it would leak from


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> for your cpu and gpu you will want more then an rs240 if you want to oc with good temps


MIght I ask what should I get? I'd like to keep my OC the same on my CPU and GPU, but of course deal with lesser temps.


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Is it safe to lay a Rasa system on it's side to do some work inside the case? Or better to drain the system first, I've never been sure about this. Have a few hours of of work to do and it will require I lay the case on it's backside.


Its fine, just make sure you put sealing tape (teflon tape, plumbers tape) on the threads of the reservoir cap so it doesn't leak. Before I taped the threads of my cap, thing would spring monster leaks when it was tipped over!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jedi304*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> for your cpu and gpu you will want more then an rs240 if you want to oc with good temps
> 
> 
> 
> MIght I ask what should I get? I'd like to keep my OC the same on my CPU and GPU, but of course deal with lesser temps.
Click to expand...

With the CM 690 Adv. I would put a RX240 on the bottom and a RS240 up top. Then you could run lower RPM fans and still have great cooling and a quiet rig.


----------



## WeirdHarold

So I'm in Fan search mode as finding GT AP-15's is like trying to find a microscopic needle in a haystack the size of the universe and I came across something an upcoming new fan. Now I know that the current Noctua fans are somewhat looked down on for water cooling as they apparently don't perform as well as one might think. Well this is a new design from them and while the colors are the same old yuck it's a very interesting design and thought you all might be interested in taking a look.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14571/fan-948/Noctua_NF-F12_120_x_25mm_PWM_Fan.html?tl=g36


----------



## Matt26LFC

Finally my Raystorm has arrived along with some Phobya HeGrease!! Gonna do some temp releated stuff with my Rasa first, i.e recored idle temps after comp been on for 1 hour, then run some Prime95 Large FFTs for an hour and record temps, then do some gaming so GPUs and CPU is loaded up and record temps so i've got something to compare with when i whack in the Raystorm and new Paste.

Interesting Fan that WeirdHarold, i wonder how it performs? I heard Noctua had new ones, but hadn't really looked into it as im not really after fans at the minute. Hopefully someone will do a review, maybe Martin.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Finally my Raystorm has arrived along with some Phobya HeGrease!! Gonna do some temp releated stuff with my Rasa first, i.e recored idle temps after comp been on for 1 hour, then run some Prime95 Large FFTs for an hour and record temps, then do some gaming so GPUs and CPU is loaded up and record temps so i've got something to compare with when i whack in the Raystorm and new Paste.
> 
> Interesting Fan that WeirdHarold, i wonder how it performs? I heard Noctua had new ones, but hadn't really looked into it as im not really after fans at the minute. Hopefully someone will do a review, maybe Martin.


Well, as far as noise they will probably be on par with current Noctua fans which is very quiet but for the performance when pushing air through a radiator who knows. It's possible that I'll be able to let you know as I need 8 high pressure low power fans for my build and these might be about the only real option out there at the moment with the AP-15's out of stock everywhere, I just hate the color!


----------



## Murlocke

I just got my RX360 kit in the mail, put it together.. no problems what so ever. Took forever to fully flush the radiator. Anyway, hooked it all up in my brand new, and still empty Corsair 800D. Everything fit great.

The bad news? The Pump is terrible. It's loud, it grinds/rattles and it's flow is OK, but not great.. especially for how loud it is. XPSC will not replace it, they say the pump is rated at 42dB, and my pump is putting out 42-45dB at 2 feet away which is "normal" according to them. Right next to it i'm showing 78dB. Unacceptable, and loud enough I can hear it from 20 feet away with ease. All fans in the case at 100% and the pump still stands out easily. I've tossed the case every which way to get rid of bubbles and I set up a 1 foot loop of just tube to make sure. A quick google shows that many of these pumps do this, many people get replacements but they also end up doing the same thing. The failure rate of these pumps are also a huge turn off.

Went a head and grabbed a MCP655 + the XPSC MCP655 5.25 bay res - so it will be exactly the same thing as what I have now.. but with a MCP655. Increasing the cost of my *CPU only* watercooling by $180 ($360 total now, not including the 6x noiseblocker fans at $25 each). Officially put my new "half" build $800+ over budget. I was fine with ~$500 over budget because I was getting much better parts, but i'm a little in over my head now and just trying to get this to work.

Only thing i've used in the kit are the CPU Water Block, and the RX360. ~$150 in value and I paid $180 for the kit. That $30 might of been worth it for all the little "extras" I might use every now and then.. but dang. Learned my lesson with kits, the pumps almost always suck. Everything else about the kit is great... I wish they had an option to buy it without the crappy pump/res.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murlocke*
> 
> I just got my RX360 kit in the mail, put it together.. no problems what so ever. Took forever to fully flush the radiator. Anyway, hooked it all up in my brand new, and still empty Corsair 800D. Everything fit great.
> The bad news? The Pump is terrible. It's loud, it grinds/rattles and it's flow is OK, but not great.. especially for how loud it is. XPSC will not replace it, they say the pump is rated at 42dB, and my pump is putting out 42-45dB at 2 feet away which is "normal" according to them. Right next to it i'm showing 78dB. Unacceptable, and loud enough I can hear it from 20 feet away with ease. All fans in the case at 100% and the pump still stands out easily. I've tossed the case every which way to get rid of bubbles and I set up a 1 foot loop of just tube to make sure. A quick google shows that many of these pumps do this, many people get replacements but they also end up doing the same thing. The failure rate of these pumps are also a huge turn off.
> Went a head and grabbed a MCP655 + the XPSC MCP655 5.25 bay res - so it will be exactly the same thing as what I have now.. but with a MCP655. Increasing the cost of my *CPU only* watercooling by $180 ($360 total now, not including the 6x noiseblocker fans at $25 each). Officially put my new "half" build $800+ over budget. I was fine with ~$500 over budget because I was getting much better parts, but i'm a little in over my head now and just trying to get this to work.
> Only thing i've used in the kit are the CPU Water Block, and the RX360. ~$150 in value and I paid $180 for the kit. That $30 might of been worth it for all the little "extras" I might use every now and then.. but dang. Learned my lesson with kits, the pumps almost always suck. Everything else about the kit is great... I wish they had an option to buy it without the crappy pump/res.


Sorry to hear about your pump fella, XSPC are usually very good when it comes to that. Everyone thats complained (that i've read about) has had it replaced! Not sure why their not replacing yours!

Did you ever run the pump dry at all?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murlocke*
> 
> I just got my RX360 kit in the mail, put it together.. no problems what so ever. Took forever to fully flush the radiator. Anyway, hooked it all up in my brand new, and still empty Corsair 800D. Everything fit great.
> 
> The bad news? The Pump is terrible. It's loud, it grinds/rattles and it's flow is OK, but not great.. especially for how loud it is. XPSC will not replace it, they say the pump is rated at 42dB, and my pump is putting out 42-45dB at 2 feet away which is "normal" according to them. Right next to it i'm showing 78dB. Unacceptable, and loud enough I can hear it from 20 feet away with ease. All fans in the case at 100% and the pump still stands out easily. I've tossed the case every which way to get rid of bubbles and I set up a 1 foot loop of just tube to make sure. A quick google shows that many of these pumps do this, many people get replacements but they also end up doing the same thing. The failure rate of these pumps are also a huge turn off.
> 
> Went a head and grabbed a MCP655 + the XPSC MCP655 5.25 bay res - so it will be exactly the same thing as what I have now.. but with a MCP655. Increasing the cost of my *CPU only* watercooling by $180 ($360 total now, not including the 6x noiseblocker fans at $25 each). Officially put my new "half" build $800+ over budget. I was fine with ~$500 over budget because I was getting much better parts, but i'm a little in over my head now and just trying to get this to work.
> 
> Only thing i've used in the kit are the CPU Water Block, and the RX360. ~$150 in value and I paid $180 for the kit. That $30 might of been worth it for all the little "extras" I might use every now and then.. but dang. Learned my lesson with kits, the pumps almost always suck. Everything else about the kit is great... I wish they had an option to buy it without the crappy pump/res.


Holy rusted metal Batman, they rate the pump at 42 db one of the points of water cooling is to lower your noise level and I doubt all of me fans running at 100% put out 42db. Dude I'm sorry to hear about your pump problems, here's hoping you just got the one jerk working for them that likes to tell people no. But I've been thinking about not ordering a kit and just putting my own together for this very reason.


----------



## WeirdHarold

So I don't know if anyone has tried / done this but I just emailed Scythe to see if I can find out why everyone is out of the Gentle Typhoon fans, so I'll let ya all know what they say if anything!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So I'm in Fan search mode as finding GT AP-15's is like trying to find a microscopic needle in a haystack the size of the universe and I came across something an upcoming new fan. Now I know that the current Noctua fans are somewhat looked down on for water cooling as they apparently don't perform as well as one might think. Well this is a new design from them and while the colors are the same old yuck it's a very interesting design and thought you all might be interested in taking a look.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14571/fan-948/Noctua_NF-F12_120_x_25mm_PWM_Fan.html?tl=g36


You can sub to the GT club, most times they know when they are are the way and will post when they come in stock.

http://www.overclock.net/t/807428/official-scythe-gentletyphoon-club


----------



## WeirdHarold

Thanks for the tip


----------



## topet2k12001

*Hi Friends,*

Just wanted to share my XSPC setup.









Pardon me as I have taken those pics immediately after install and during leak-testing. Also I am using a regular point-and-shoot as I am not into photography.

Note: images have been resized to 640x480. If you want to view the images in full, you can visit my ImageShack album here. If you want to see my cable management, you can visit my initial post here.

The rest of the pics in my rig signature/profile. Hope you like it.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Finally my Raystorm has arrived along with some Phobya HeGrease!! Gonna do some temp releated stuff with my Rasa first, i.e recored idle temps after comp been on for 1 hour, then run some Prime95 Large FFTs for an hour and record temps, then do some gaming so GPUs and CPU is loaded up and record temps so i've got something to compare with when i whack in the Raystorm and new Paste.
> Interesting Fan that WeirdHarold, i wonder how it performs? I heard Noctua had new ones, but hadn't really looked into it as im not really after fans at the minute. Hopefully someone will do a review, maybe Martin.


Finally got some results in

*Temps under my Rasa block - Ambient was pretty much 20C*

(Not sure if an average is relevent really but TTL does it lol)

Idle temps after an hour; 33, 27, 32, 27 average across the cores 29.75C which gives a delta of 9.75C

Prime95 Large FFTs 1 hour; 53, 51, 51, 49 average across the cores 51C which gives a delta of 31C

Gaming BF3 1 Hour; 50, 48, 50, 47 average across the cores 48.75C which gives a delta of 28.75C

Now i've really got no idea if thats any good or not lol but my loop does include 2 6950 GPUs

Hopefully 2morrow i'll get the Raystorm in and do the same tests. Hopefully i won't be too hungover in the morn


----------



## BramSLI1

Hi Friends,
Just wanted to share my XSPC setup.








Pardon me as I have taken those pics immediately after install and during leak-testing. Also I am using a regular point-and-shoot as I am not into photography.
Note: images have been resized to 640x480. If you want to view the images in full, you can visit my ImageShack album here. If you want to see my cable management, you can visit my initial post here.
The rest of the pics in my rig signature/profile. Hope you like it.









That looks amazing! I really like the mod you did on the case to fit the bottom rad. Really nice work. Could you post your temps?


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Hi Friends,
> Just wanted to share my XSPC setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pardon me as I have taken those pics immediately after install and during leak-testing. Also I am using a regular point-and-shoot as I am not into photography.
> Note: images have been resized to 640x480. If you want to view the images in full, you can visit my ImageShack album here. If you want to see my cable management, you can visit my initial post here.
> The rest of the pics in my rig signature/profile. Hope you like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks amazing! I really like the mod you did on the case to fit the bottom rad. Really nice work. Could you post your temps?


Thank you for appreciating.









The case is a Cooler Master 690II Advanced...it does not need to be modded, i.e. it already has provisions for installing a radiator on the casing floor.

For temps, let me see...I'm actually running Prime95 right now so it's in progres. But I did save some screenshots of a prior test. I'm on stock clocks on my i5-2500K. Give me a few minutes to prepare the screenshots, please...I started the Prime95 run at 4:12am my time (Blended Test).

*EDIT:* Here are the temps...

*EDIT #2:* Since we are on the topic, I'd like to know if my temps are "okay". I'm from the Philippines by the way, it's 4:46am my time. I don't know what my ambient temperatures are, though...so I guess it would be hard to tell? I could probably say that the weather/climate here is tropical-humid...averaging high-20's. In summer we go to 30's.

*Prime95 Running, showing Temps*



*Prime95 Screenshot shown*



*Prime95 Stopped after an hour*


----------



## topet2k12001

Not sure if this helps as well, here are my temps from my prior run (December 2, 2011):


----------



## WeirdHarold

Awesome looking build the white tubes on the black background looks amazing !


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Awesome looking build the white tubes on the black background looks amazing !


Thank you sir.


----------



## WeirdHarold

So on average how often do people have issues with the pump that comes in the kits? My mouse is hovering over the order button


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So on average how often do people have issues with the pump that comes in the kits? My mouse is hovering over the order button


Hm, I don't know. I have read some posts from other owners who had issues with the pump (noisy, broken, etc.). But come to think of it, I have read similar things about other brands too. I guess it does happen to any product (we get unfortunate scenarios). With mine I'm quite happy.







Here in the Philippines, the commonly available ones are XSPC and EK. I've seen other brands in the US though.

If you want, you can buy the XSPC parts separately. And then for the reservoir/pump, XSPC has a variant where you use an MCP655 pump to insert into the dual-bay acrylic reservoir if that makes you more comfortable.







Not sure if it would cost more to purchase individual parts/components separately.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So on average how often do people have issues with the pump that comes in the kits? My mouse is hovering over the order button


I would think for number of sells the % of faulty ones is low, remember ppl don't post when everything is fine only when it's not making the figures disproportionate


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> I would think for number of sells the % of faulty ones is low, remember ppl don't post when everything is fine only when it's not making the figures disproportionate


I agree with this.Goes for pretty much any product (for that matter).


----------



## WeirdHarold

Thanks, I know about the separate parts and the res with the APP655 pump and this will be down the road. For the sake of how expensive this can get I'm going to do it in stages, the top of my case will hold a 480 rad but I'm going to start with the rs240 kit. Then I'll do a swap out for the EX480 Rad and the Raystorm block. In the mean time I'll grab the fans I'll need for the 480 rad so when I get to that point I have all the fans I need and it will be a simple drain and swap out, refill and bleed. Then down the road after that will come the better pump/res and at that point I'll install a drain line into the system for maintenance along with a couple of inline temp sensors for a future lamptron fc touch fan controller. I'm glad that you 2 don't like the bad pump % to good pumps is very high, and I have a feeling those that have had major issues with XSPC swapping them out for them were probably not very nice in the manner they took the problem to XSPC in the first place. I work in retail and when a customer has an attitude with me I'm less likely to go out of my way to solve their problem then someone that is at least understanding that things go wrong from time to time and ask nicely for the problem to be resolved.


----------



## Greenback

lol I worked in a shop I last 2 weeks b4 I was told I'm not cut out to work with customers.


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Thanks, I know about the separate parts and the res with the APP655 pump and this will be down the road. For the sake of how expensive this can get I'm going to do it in stages, the top of my case will hold a 480 rad but I'm going to start with the rs240 kit. Then I'll do a swap out for the EX480 Rad and the Raystorm block. In the mean time I'll grab the fans I'll need for the 480 rad so when I get to that point I have all the fans I need and it will be a simple drain and swap out, refill and bleed. Then down the road after that will come the better pump/res and at that point I'll install a drain line into the system for maintenance along with a couple of inline temp sensors for a future lamptron fc touch fan controller.


Seems like a nice upgrade path.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'm glad that you 2 don't like the bad pump % to good pumps is very high, and I have a feeling those that have had major issues with XSPC swapping them out for them were probably not very nice in the manner they took the problem to XSPC in the first place. I work in retail and when a customer has an attitude with me I'm less likely to go out of my way to solve their problem then someone that is at least understanding that things go wrong from time to time and ask nicely for the problem to be resolved.


Agree...nice thought process.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, I'm very happy you think so cause I just ordered the RS240 kit from frozen along with a couple of the XSPC 1650rpm fans and some primochill uv blue tubing to replace the crapy tubing that comes in the kit







The fans are so I can have Push Pull out of the box.


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well, I'm very happy you think so cause I just ordered the RS240 kit from frozen along with a couple of the XSPC 1650rpm fans and some primochill uv blue tubing to replace the crapy tubing that comes in the kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fans are so I can have Push Pull out of the box.


Whoa, that was fast!







Congrats and have fun building, you will enjoy it!


----------



## error-id10t

It's me again









After reading few reviews of EX360 vs RX360, this is what I have come up with now.

XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit
XSPC RayStorm CPU Waterblock for Intel
EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC580 DCII Acetal+EN Nickel

+ Delivery = AU$436.

The pump isn't good (42db is loud) and many people I see here replace it. This is what I saw recommended elsewhere and looking at reviews it seems to be good:

Koolance PMP-450 12V Variable Speed Pump (same pump as a Laing D5 with an added tach wire (same manufacturer, different branding)).

That is another $99 on top of the above total bringing it to: ~AU$535

Now, if I buy the RX360 rad, PMP-450 pump and the CPU/GPU blocks separetely it comes to ~$436. Considering I'll have to replace the tubing also which isn't counted here yet - what is left from the original kit?

Am I missing some expensive $100 part here which might sway me away from getting the parts individually?

added: I'm missing a Reservoir right? The 'XSPC Laing DDC BayRes Two' would be $49 which is still ~$50 cheaper than the kit.


----------



## Los Hog

If your gone that far into replacing parts might as well go full custom lol


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> It's me again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump isn't good (42db is loud) and many people I see here replace it.


I don't know...I'm not sure how loud 42 decibels is, but I have Everflow fans (OEM type, 40db, 110CFM) and no way that the pump sounds that noisy in my opinion. I had to put my ear near my computer case for me to hear the pump.

*EDIT:* I watched some YouTube videos about some Gentle Typhoon fans from Scythe (which are about at 40+ decibels)...for the pump to sound that noisy, there must be something wrong with the pump. I may be wrong, but that's not how I am hearing my pump.

*EDIT #2:*

Here's a thread that I am currently reading...I am seeing mixed feedback. Some said it's loud, some (like me) said it's not: http://www.overclock.net/t/962355/xspc-rasa-kit-pump-noisy/10. Maybe XSPC pumps some months ago were not good? I am fairly new to building a rig on my own, so probably at this time they fixed it?


----------



## WeirdHarold

As was mentioned earlier when I asked about the pumps, people that have bad experiences will go tell everyone about it but usually when everything goes the way you expect you don't really talk much about it. Overall the percentage of bad pumps to good pumps is probably very low, plus no matter what company produces the product or how high end or low end it is some will always make it past quality control it's just the way it is. So you just hope yours isn't the one that got past


----------



## chinesethunda

so the blademasters that i put on my rad are being loud or they don't like being horizontal, any suggestions to good fans alternatives to the gt ap that can be horizontal? noise isn't much of an issue


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR

Got my 360 kit installed. Using a raystorm for the Q6600 and an mcw82 on my gtx 480, awesome sauce


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> so the blademasters that i put on my rad are being loud or they don't like being horizontal, any suggestions to good fans alternatives to the gt ap that can be horizontal? noise isn't much of an issue


I've decided to go with the XSPC 1650rpm fans which are basically the fans that came in the kit but the wires are sleeved. There was a buy on here that put them up against the AP-15's mainly to see how the temps compared both stock and overclocked and they were very similar. I imagine they make a bit more noise than the AP-15's but since the are over half the price I figured they were a good way to go for now till we see what happens with the AP-15's. Here is a link to FrozenCPU's page for them and a pic:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14319/fan-913/XSPC_120mm_x_25mm_Radiator_Chassis_Fan_-_1650_RPM.html?tl=g36c15s60


----------



## WeirdHarold

Anyone need Gentle Typhoon AP-15's they have them in Canada here's the link:
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6624_Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-Fan-1850-rpm---120x120x25mm--.html


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> so the blademasters that i put on my rad are being loud or they don't like being horizontal, any suggestions to good fans alternatives to the gt ap that can be horizontal? noise isn't much of an issue
> 
> 
> 
> I've decided to go with the XSPC 1650rpm fans which are basically the fans that came in the kit but the wires are sleeved. There was a buy on here that put them up against the AP-15's mainly to see how the temps compared both stock and overclocked and they were very similar. I imagine they make a bit more noise than the AP-15's but since the are over half the price I figured they were a good way to go for now till we see what happens with the AP-15's. Here is a link to FrozenCPU's page for them and a pic:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14319/fan-913/XSPC_120mm_x_25mm_Radiator_Chassis_Fan_-_1650_RPM.html?tl=g36c15s60
Click to expand...

I hope your not talking about the guy that had a 360 cpu loop. He has way too much rad for a cpu loop to compare fans. But I have used both fans, the stock fans are not bad fans, if I had to rate on a scale 1-10 for performance and sound level, I'd give them a 7. I'd give the GT 15's a 9. Here is a video I made a while ago showing the sound difference. Anyways I would get GT 15's or stay stock unless you want PWM controled fans, Arctic Cooling F12


----------



## WeirdHarold

Yeah that is the guy I was talking about, but for me that's a good comparison as I'll actually be running a 480 Rad for my cpu loop. I know it's overkill but my case will hold 3 of those bad boys so I figured why the heck not







But the fan question is a non issue for me now as I ordered 8 of the AP-15's from the site I linked above and I'll just use the XSPC fans for something else. Thanks for the info though and thanks for looking out ! As for the video that's not a very accurate way of testing the sound of a fan and since the video's sound is played back amplified it really distorts the effect of how much noise they really make. I'll agree that the XSPC fan does make more noise but not by much, the Gentle Typhoons sound is on a different frequency that is less annoying to the ear and thus they seem to make less noise when the really don't.


----------



## GoodInk

You are right, I made that video when someone in here was saying that the XSPC fans were not any louder than the GT-15's but the video does give you an idea about the differences in the sound of the two.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You are right, I made that video when someone in here was saying that the XSPC fans were not any louder than the GT-15's but the video does give you an idea about the differences in the sound of the two.


Yep you can totally hear the difference in the pitch between the 2.


----------



## rdfloyd

Finally got everything installed! Temps are great. Hover between 50-58C (difference between cores) while running IBT. Here's a quick picture I took after startup:










However, like a poster said before me, this pump is ridiculously loud. I can hear the thing rattling around and don't know what to do to stop it. Should I get in touch with XSPC? I know what pumps sound like when they have air trapped in them, so I am fairly sure this pump doesn't. It sounds like it is shaking around in the reservoir. The pump is the only disappointment I have from this kit.


----------



## BramSLI1

rdfloyd, make sure you have the reservoir filled to the top. I've noticed that when the res isn't completely full it does cause the pump to make noise. If this doesn't solve it then there might be something wrong with the pump. Build looks great though:thumb:


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Finally got everything installed! Temps are great. Hover between 50-58C (difference between cores) while running IBT. Here's a quick picture I took after startup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, like a poster said before me, this pump is ridiculously loud. I can hear the thing rattling around and don't know what to do to stop it. Should I get in touch with XSPC? I know what pumps sound like when they have air trapped in them, so I am fairly sure this pump doesn't. It sounds like it is shaking around in the reservoir. The pump is the only disappointment I have from this kit.


I get these temps on a Corsair H50 on a i5 2500k @ 4.6ghz...why are your temps so high with a Rasa kit???


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> I get these temps on a Corsair H50 on a i5 2500k @ 4.6ghz...why are your temps so high with a Rasa kit???










Can anyone else confirm? Should I do a reseat or are theme temps normal?

Running an i5 2500k at 4.5 with 1.325V at load. Thermal paste was AS5 (please don't start a flame and blame the paste; they all are within a few Celcius of each other). Tubing is 3/8" Feser. I do have 4 right angles on my radiator to move the barb (see image). I don't think they are that restrictive as I get a good amount of movement from the water in the reservoir.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> rdfloyd, make sure you have the reservoir filled to the top. I've noticed that when the res isn't completely full it does cause the pump to make noise. If this doesn't solve it then there might be something wrong with the pump. Build looks great though:thumb:


There is a slight gap from the top (maybe 1/4"). I'll fill it all the way up to see. Thanks!

+REP to you both.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> I get these temps on a Corsair H50 on a i5 2500k @ 4.6ghz...why are your temps so high with a Rasa kit???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone else confirm? Should I do a reseat or are theme temps normal?
> 
> Running an i5 2500k at 4.5 with 1.325V at load. Thermal paste was AS5 (please don't start a flame and blame the paste; they all are within a few Celcius of each other). Tubing is 3/8" Feser. I do have 4 right angles on my radiator to move the barb (see image). I don't think they are that restrictive as I get a good amount of movement from the water in the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> rdfloyd, make sure you have the reservoir filled to the top. I've noticed that when the res isn't completely full it does cause the pump to make noise. If this doesn't solve it then there might be something wrong with the pump. Build looks great though:thumb:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There is a slight gap from the top (maybe 1/4"). I'll fill it all the way up to see. Thanks!
> 
> +REP to you both.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about those fittings on the rad they don't look like your standard water cooling fittings, if I were you I'd try this instead of using those fittings to reach the rad try turning it around so the tubs can just go straight to the rad!

Hope this helps and good luck









Edit: just noticed you don't have allot of room between the case and rad so that's why you tuned it around the way you did, I do think those fittings could be at least part of your problem.


----------



## intermission

Having 4 90 degree firing is going to severely hurt your flow rate and could possibly cause higher temps.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'm not sure about those fittings on the rad they don't look like your standard water cooling fittings, if I were you I'd try this instead of using those fittings to reach the rad try turning it around so the tubs can just go straight to the rad!
> Hope this helps and good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: just noticed you don't have allot of room between the case and rad so that's why you tuned it around the way you did, I do think those fittings could be at least part of your problem.


I got them from Home Depot because I didn't know I would need them. And yes, the rad is faced this way because it pretty much has to be. I was considering milling out the inside of the fittings. The reason for that is that the "hole" in the fitting reduces in size (from 1/4" to maybe 1/8"). However, I figured that the pump should be able to push through. Now it seems like it doesn't.

But would that explain why the pump is so loud?

I also filled the pump all the way to the top. Didn't work.









EDIT: Ok, so it seems like the general consensus is that the 4-90degrees aren't a good idea. I was trying to go cheap as this kit was stretching the limit. However, I cannot pay the prices for fittings from places like FrozenCPU (nothing against them), etc. Does anyone have any low cost ideas?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'm not sure about those fittings on the rad they don't look like your standard water cooling fittings, if I were you I'd try this instead of using those fittings to reach the rad try turning it around so the tubs can just go straight to the rad!
> Hope this helps and good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: just noticed you don't have allot of room between the case and rad so that's why you tuned it around the way you did, I do think those fittings could be at least part of your problem.
> 
> 
> 
> I got them from Home Depot because I didn't know I would need them. And yes, the rad is faced this way because it pretty much has to be. I was considering milling out the inside of the fittings. The reason for that is that the "hole" in the fitting reduces in size (from 1/4" to maybe 1/8"). However, I figured that the pump should be able to push through. Now it seems like it doesn't.
> 
> But would that explain why the pump is so loud?
> 
> I also filled the pump all the way to the top. Didn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Ok, so it seems like the general consensus is that the 4-90degrees aren't a good idea. I was trying to go cheap as this kit was stretching the limit. However, I cannot pay the prices for fittings from places like FrozenCPU (nothing against them), etc. Does anyone have any low cost ideas?
Click to expand...

Yes that could have something to do with the pump noise as it might have to work harder to push the water through those fittings, if you have enough tubing try putting the barbs that came in the kit onto the rad and just run the tubing to each side of the rad and onto the barbs then fire it up and see if the pump sounds better and if your temps go down. This would be the lowest cost solution I could think of till you can get the actual fitting that you need. I know the tubing would look a bit odd like this but just remember it wouldn't be forever, here is a very quick pic to give you a better idea of what I mean:


Good luck


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yes that could have something to do with the pump noise as it might have to work harder to push the water through those fittings, if you have enough tubing try putting the barbs that came in the kit onto the rad and just run the tubing to each side of the rad and onto the barbs then fire it up and see if the pump sounds better and if your temps go down. This would be the lowest cost solution I could think of till you can get the actual fitting that you need. I know the tubing would look a bit odd like this but just remember it wouldn't be forever, here is a very quick pic to give you a better idea of what I mean:
> -snip-
> Good luck


I don't have enough tubing left over for that. I should have bought 2 packs of the Feser tube, but they only had one in stock.

Here's what I am going to do:

You can see in the picture below that the mounts are turned "upside down" so that the radiator is lower to the ground (I did this so that if I had a leak, water wouldn't run down the tube into the case). However, seeing as my temps are bad and the 90deg fittings are supposedly super-restrictive, I'm going to turn the right side up and straighten them out until the barbs are roughly parallel to the ports. Then I am going to turn the radiator around so that the barbs point directly into the case.










Someone please respond to this post within then next few minutes to let me know if this is the worst idea ever.

Oh snap. The pump just stopped making noise around 10 seconds ago. Silence...


----------



## WeirdHarold

I'd say go for it, that kinda what my first suggestion was but not being able to see exactly how you had it mounted I couldn't give you an idea on how to fix the issue of the rad being lower but was going to suggest you look into moving the rad up somehow.

Glad to hear the pump is working better that's at least a plus


----------



## WeirdHarold

Good luck to ya I'm off and running now so I hope that I've ended up helping and I look forward to reading later that you got it all figured out and I'll be hoping for you.


----------



## rdfloyd

Thanks! I'm moving the rad around now. Trying not to get water everywhere...


----------



## ShaCanX

Yeah changing the orientation of the mounts would be a good idea. Seems you may have had an air bubble stuck in your pump. I also had a horrible grinding noise in my pump on first install but it gradually decreased over the first few days and now its whisper quiet.


----------



## jeffblute

Has anyone here found or done a review on the new XSPC "EX" series rads yet? Ive been looking around and with no luck yet


----------



## rdfloyd

So I moved everything around (see pictures). It's a lot less complicated, so I like it. Temps reduced from 50-58-54-55 to 48-57-53-53. I still don't like them, so I will probably do a reseat tomorrow. I think I used too much paste or didn't get a proper seating. However, I have always had that one "hot" core (#2), whereas #1 is normally the coolest.

Also, some pictures of the barbs. You can see the throttling that is there. I think that I am still going to take them to our university's machine shop and mill out that little bit. Will post pictures when I get around to the shop.




























EDIT: As for the pump, it has stopped rattling. I'm going to guess it was some form of cavitation.

However, as soon as the pump stopped, the radiator started...Now I hear a slight trickling sound coming from it. I thought it was air bubbles, but I have moved the case around to try and dislodge them, but nothing has worked. Is this normal?


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> So I moved everything around (see pictures). It's a lot less complicated, so I like it. Temps reduced from 50-58-54-55 to 48-57-53-53. I still don't like them, so I will probably do a reseat tomorrow. I think I used too much paste or didn't get a proper seating. However, I have always had that one "hot" core (#2), whereas #1 is normally the coolest.
> 
> Also, some pictures of the barbs. You can see the throttling that is there. I think that I am still going to take them to our university's machine shop and mill out that little bit. Will post pictures when I get around to the shop.
> 
> EDIT: As for the pump, it has stopped rattling. I'm going to guess it was some form of cavitation.
> 
> However, as soon as the pump stopped, the radiator started...Now I hear a slight trickling sound coming from it. I thought it was air bubbles, but I have moved the case around to try and dislodge them, but nothing has worked. Is this normal?


Hi Friend,

Are those full-load temps? From where I live I would say those are fine (the improved Core Temps). What application/software did you use to "heat up" (test) your processor? I'm averaging 50 on 3 Cores and 55 on the third Core (Core #2) on full load using Prime95 (Blended Test).

I came across a site/forum that explains the differences of temps on the Cores and why the third Core is the hottest;here it is. Not sure of the accuracy of the information as I don't have much technical knowledge about the subject matter.

The trickling sound...that's water (with air in between)...I personally called it a "gurgling" sound, lol. We need to ensure that we "bleed" the loop, or let the air out.

What I do whenever I drain and re-fill is:

1. I tilt the case to as high an angle as I can (with the reservoir cover open and the pump running during leak testing). I tilt it in a way that the case stands only on "one foot".
2. I do it at the moment I hear the trickling sound, let it stay tilted (supported by my hand) for some 30 seconds to a minute or two, then slowly put the case back standing.
3. As I do this, I watch the reservoir and I see bubbles go into the reservoir. Then I do it again, this time tilting another "foot" of the case and repeat.

At a certain point I even lay the case on its side (pump off, reservoir cover closed/sealed). One side at a time, sometimes I even turn it upside-down, lol (I don't know if anyone else does it this way).

Just be careful and watch out as the water might spill.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topet2k12001*
> 
> Hi Friend,
> Are those full-load temps? From where I live I would say those are fine (the improved Core Temps). What application/software did you use to "heat up" (test) your processor? I'm averaging 50 on 3 Cores and 55 on the third Core (Core #2) on full load using Prime95 (Blended Test).
> I came across a site/forum that explains the differences of temps on the Cores and why the third Core is the hottest;here it is. Not sure of the accuracy of the information as I don't have much technical knowledge about the subject matter.
> The trickling sound...that's water (with air in between)...I personally called it a "gurgling" sound, lol. We need to ensure that we "bleed" the loop, or let the air out.
> What I do whenever I drain and re-fill is:
> 1. I tilt the case to as high an angle as I can (with the reservoir cover open and the pump running during leak testing). I tilt it in a way that the case stands only on "one foot".
> 2. I do it at the moment I hear the trickling sound, let it stay tilted (supported by my hand) for some 30 seconds to a minute or two, then slowly put the case back standing.
> 3. As I do this, I watch the reservoir and I see bubbles go into the reservoir. Then I do it again, this time tilting another "foot" of the case and repeat.
> At a certain point I even lay the case on its side (pump off, reservoir cover closed/sealed). One side at a time, sometimes I even turn it upside-down, lol (I don't know if anyone else does it this way).
> Just be careful and watch out as the water might spill.


Thanks for the link and the help!

Ambient isn't too cold right now. I'm wearing short sleeves and jeans and have the door open to cool off my room. I'm idling around 19-23-18-19, so that's good. Load is using IBT (which has always gotten my temps higher than Prime95) with around 3GB of memory. I realize that there is going to be a limit that heat can transfer, so if I start pushing my overclock and temps go up dramatically, I know that something is wrong. But for now, going from 80C load to 50C is good enough for me.

The gurgling has slowed down a good bit. I can barely hear my fans. The two rad fans are running at 40%. The loudest thing I hear is the rear 120mm that is plugged into the PWM controller (like an audible warning if something goes wrong in my loop).

Thanks again! +REP


----------



## ShaCanX

Good job much nicer setup. The sound you are hearing is normal. Just air bubbles, if tilting does not get rid of it, just leave it it will sort it self out in a day or so.

Edit: I wouldn't worry about the load temps your currently getting. Personally I am good as long as am under 78c IBT really does a good job of heating the proc.


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *topet2k12001*
> 
> Hi Friend,
> Are those full-load temps? From where I live I would say those are fine (the improved Core Temps). What application/software did you use to "heat up" (test) your processor? I'm averaging 50 on 3 Cores and 55 on the third Core (Core #2) on full load using Prime95 (Blended Test).
> I came across a site/forum that explains the differences of temps on the Cores and why the third Core is the hottest;here it is. Not sure of the accuracy of the information as I don't have much technical knowledge about the subject matter.
> The trickling sound...that's water (with air in between)...I personally called it a "gurgling" sound, lol. We need to ensure that we "bleed" the loop, or let the air out.
> What I do whenever I drain and re-fill is:
> 1. I tilt the case to as high an angle as I can (with the reservoir cover open and the pump running during leak testing). I tilt it in a way that the case stands only on "one foot".
> 2. I do it at the moment I hear the trickling sound, let it stay tilted (supported by my hand) for some 30 seconds to a minute or two, then slowly put the case back standing.
> 3. As I do this, I watch the reservoir and I see bubbles go into the reservoir. Then I do it again, this time tilting another "foot" of the case and repeat.
> At a certain point I even lay the case on its side (pump off, reservoir cover closed/sealed). One side at a time, sometimes I even turn it upside-down, lol (I don't know if anyone else does it this way).
> Just be careful and watch out as the water might spill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link and the help!
> 
> Ambient isn't too cold right now. I'm wearing short sleeves and jeans and have the door open to cool off my room. I'm idling around 19-23-18-19, so that's good. Load is using IBT (which has always gotten my temps higher than Prime95) with around 3GB of memory. I realize that there is going to be a limit that heat can transfer, so if I start pushing my overclock and temps go up dramatically, I know that something is wrong. But for now, going from 80C load to 50C is good enough for me.
> 
> The gurgling has slowed down a good bit. I can barely hear my fans. The two rad fans are running at 40%. The loudest thing I hear is the rear 120mm that is plugged into the PWM controller (like an audible warning if something goes wrong in my loop).
> 
> Thanks again! +REP
Click to expand...

Ah, Intel Burn Test. I have read somewhere in the forums that IBT is used for what they call a "burn-in", and that they recommend Prime95 (Blended Test) to simulate a more "real-world scenario" usage of a computer.

Your idle temps are way too low compared to mine...but where I live is a tropical/humid country, so I guess that's where the difference lies. Anyway, from what I have read as well in the forums the load temps are what we really need to look at, since idle is idle.







Big factor for idle temps is the environmental temps (ambient).

Oh definitely 50 degrees is way within threshold of the i5-2500K chip.







I believe this chip was made to withstand something higher so don't worry.


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*
> 
> ...if tilting does not get rid of it, just leave it it will sort it self out in a day or so.


This is the reason why I find the XSPC's dual-bay reservoir very convenient and easy to use.







This is actually my first build and first water-cooling setup as well...never thought it could have been easier than I expected.


----------



## rdfloyd

Thanks for the reply's guys.

I'm not too worried about temps. I was talking with my Physics professor about this (watercooling), and I started asking about the relationship between temperature and heat dissipation. Since my load temps aren't very high, the heat will not dissipate as quickly as they would at 80+C. Also, IBT was the worse case scenario, so having low 50s is plenty good for me. Granted, my AS5 hasn't cured yet, so temps will only go down.

I live in South Carolina, so we are enjoying a little bit of a chill. During summer is when I am going to seethe power of this watercooling.


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Thanks for the reply's guys.
> 
> I'm not too worried about temps. I was talking with my Physics professor about this (watercooling), and I started asking about the relationship between temperature and heat dissipation. Since my load temps aren't very high, the heat will not dissipate as quickly as they would at 80+C. Also, IBT was the worse case scenario, so having low 50s is plenty good for me. Granted, my AS5 hasn't cured yet, so temps will only go down.
> 
> I live in South Carolina, so we are enjoying a little bit of a chill. During summer is when I am going to seethe power of this watercooling.


That's nice information there. You may want to also talk to him about topics relating to Flow Rate and Head Pressure. This might be of interest now that you are on water-cooling (i.e. How strong of a pump do I need if I have x number of waterblocks / x type of waterblocks and x number/type of radiators?), or perhaps you already know some information about this one.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShaCanX*
> 
> Yeah changing the orientation of the mounts would be a good idea. Seems you may have had an air bubble stuck in your pump. I also had a horrible grinding noise in my pump on first install but it gradually decreased over the first few days and now its whisper quiet.


This is good info to have as I just ordered my kit on Saturday and will be installing it at the end of the week, I hope - time permitting that is! I've wondered if some of those that have complained about bad pumps didn't maybe have air trapped somewhere in the system.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> So I moved everything around (see pictures). It's a lot less complicated, so I like it. Temps reduced from 50-58-54-55 to 48-57-53-53. I still don't like them, so I will probably do a reseat tomorrow. I think I used too much paste or didn't get a proper seating. However, I have always had that one "hot" core (#2), whereas #1 is normally the coolest.
> 
> Also, some pictures of the barbs. You can see the throttling that is there. I think that I am still going to take them to our university's machine shop and mill out that little bit. Will post pictures when I get around to the shop.
> 
> EDIT: As for the pump, it has stopped rattling. I'm going to guess it was some form of cavitation.
> 
> However, as soon as the pump stopped, the radiator started...Now I hear a slight trickling sound coming from it. I thought it was air bubbles, but I have moved the case around to try and dislodge them, but nothing has worked. Is this normal?


WoW that turned out really nice after you turned that rad around, Great Job


----------



## Los Hog

@ Rdfloyd that looks great


----------



## boostinsteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So on average how often do people have issues with the pump that comes in the kits? My mouse is hovering over the order button


Going on 18 months with mine now, and it still works like a charm. Just a single RS360 and cpu block though.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So on average how often do people have issues with the pump that comes in the kits? My mouse is hovering over the order button
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going on 18 months with mine now, and it still works like a charm. Just a single RS360 and cpu block though.
Click to expand...

Well, I'll be starting with an RS240 but soon I will replace the 240 Rad with the EX480 Rad but it will also be just my CPU. Just so I don't get the usual reply of that's way to much Rad for just a CPU, it's only because my case will hold three 480's so my take on it is WHY NOT


----------



## boostinsteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well, I'll be starting with an RS240 but soon I will replace the 240 Rad with the EX480 Rad but it will also be just my CPU. Just so I don't get the usual reply of that's way to much Rad for just a CPU, it's only because my case will hold three 480's so my take on it is WHY NOT


I don't question anymore, I will always use the biggest rad I can. More dissipation surface area has a huge impact on your delta temps. I was planning to build my own case here in the next couple of months, and plan to do 2 480's, 1 for cpu, 1 for gpu's. I completely understand.


----------



## Los Hog

I cant say anything I run four 360 rads in my build lol


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well, I'll be starting with an RS240 but soon I will replace the 240 Rad with the EX480 Rad but it will also be just my CPU. Just so I don't get the usual reply of that's way to much Rad for just a CPU, it's only because my case will hold three 480's so my take on it is WHY NOT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't question anymore, I will always use the biggest rad I can. More dissipation surface area has a huge impact on your delta temps. I was planning to build my own case here in the next couple of months, and plan to do 2 480's, 1 for cpu, 1 for gpu's. I completely understand.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm going to have the one 480 for the CPU loop and then either one 480 or two 360's for the GPU loop haven't totally decided yet


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I cant say anything I run four 360 rads in my build lol


Yeah Los but you're cooling a bit more than just your CPU







if I see correctly in your system pics your water cooling everything save your ram in that awesome build of yours


----------



## Greenback

I had a 360+120 for my cpu b4 I added the gpu







thinking of adding another 360 after xmas


----------



## rdfloyd

I'll probably mill the parts on Thursday, when I have time to focus on what I am doing.

Thanks for the compliments. When I am done with everything, I will take some "glamour" shots and post them here. Still have a sleeving kit coming in from FTWPC...


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> Has anyone here found or done a review on the new XSPC "EX" series rads yet? Ive been looking around and with no luck yet


This is a review which excluded it for me personally..

In my noobish mind, I'm looking at the EX360 kit being sold with Raystorm block being equal as the old RX360 kit - the new CPU block performs few degrees better while the EX360 rad performs few degrees worse.

http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=1401&page=7
Quote:


> And next to its bigger sibling, the RX360, the EX360 can't come close as XSPC claims.


----------



## Greenback

I personally wouldn't trust pureoverclocks watercooling reviews tbh they seem to get different results compared to martins and skinnee labs which are normally close


----------



## WeirdHarold

In a real world application Los Hog swapped out his 3 RX360's for 3 EX360's and saw a temp drop so they might be at least a great option, especially in tight spaces.


----------



## lsxtrkiller

Hello Overclock.net i have received my xspc rasa 750 rs240 kit today, and i have a few more questions before it comes time to install... I ordered it from amazon and apparently it came with a free bottle of swiftech Hydrx should i use this with distilled water or order a different biocide? #2 I also ordered some 130cf/m 3000rpm+10% fans at the same time, now i was intending to just use the fans i ordered, but then it occurred to me that I would still have the 2 xspc fans laying around.... Would I get better temps using the 130 cf/m 3000rpm fans in push and the xpsc much slower 1200rpm fans in pull? or would the 2000 rpm difference between the fans actually hurt my temps rather then help them?'


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> Hello Overclock.net i have received my xspc rasa 750 rs240 kit today, and i have a few more questions before it comes time to install... I ordered it from amazon and apparently it came with a free bottle of swiftech Hydrx should i use this with distilled water or order a different biocide? #2 I also ordered some 130cf/m 3000rpm+10% fans at the same time, now i was intending to just use the fans i ordered, but then it occurred to me that I would still have the 2 xspc fans laying around.... Would I get better temps using the 130 cf/m 3000rpm fans in push and the xpsc much slower 1200rpm fans in pull? or would the 2000 rpm difference between the fans actually hurt my temps rather then help them?'


I only use a Kill coil and distilled water and can only tell you that this has always worked for me. On the fans you should never mix any other fan in a push/pull it never works out very good







. I







hope everything goes good in your build and you have fun with it


----------



## G3RG

This is how my rs240 kit turned out in my CM stacker 830. I have the fans mounted underneath pulling through the rad. With the fans under the case they're nearly silent and completely invisible









A nice thing about this setup is if any of the barbs start leaking the only thing that could ever short out is the fans under the rad. The motherboard and gpu (unless water starts spraying) is perfectly safe









I may upgrade to an ex240 or add a thick 120 (or both lol) to the back of the case to bring my temps down a little more. I'm at around 70-74 on all cores folding 24/7 at 4.9 w/ 1.46v


----------



## Los Hog

LOL looking in the picture it looks like there is no fans on the rad if you would not have said they were under the case I would have been fooled. Great build


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> LOL looking in the picture it looks like there is no fans on the rad if you would not have said they were under the case I would have been fooled. Great build


Yea sadly there's not enough space for push/pull unless I got some slim fans.... but from what I've experienced the 2nd set of fans usually doesn't improve temps THAT much.


----------



## Los Hog

No your right I dont see were the dollars would pay off for that little cooling


----------



## lsxtrkiller

Yea okay i figured as much i might end up ordering another Scythe ULTRA KAZE series then i have 3 now and use 4 of those for push pull.... sad thing is they are pretty beefy and I dont have screws long enough to go all the way through.... and the ones i have are too long to go just through the bottom and the treads are only on the very tip so i cant cut them shorter







so it looks like ill be ordering a box of screws....


----------



## Los Hog

I cut my screws with a dremel but sometimes this will mess up the starting threads


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> Yea okay i figured as much i might end up ordering another Scythe ULTRA KAZE series then i have 3 now and use 4 of those for push pull.... sad thing is they are pretty beefy and I dont have screws long enough to go all the way through.... and the ones i have are too long to go just through the bottom and the treads are only on the very tip so i cant cut them shorter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it looks like ill be ordering a box of screws....


I got some nice brass screws from Home Depot that are just long enough. I don't remember if they had any longer ones though....


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> Yea okay i figured as much i might end up ordering another Scythe ULTRA KAZE series then i have 3 now and use 4 of those for push pull.... sad thing is they are pretty beefy and I dont have screws long enough to go all the way through.... and the ones i have are too long to go just through the bottom and the treads are only on the very tip so i cant cut them shorter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so it looks like ill be ordering a box of screws....


When looking for fan screws I've found this page very helpful since they have a section devoted to Screws by Fan Size:http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g55/Screws.html

Hope this helps


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chineytt*
> 
> http://3dmark.com/3dmv/3687134
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> xspc is doing me well!!!


You need AVX LinX, I think this is the right one


----------



## WeirdHarold

So It looks like my Gentle Typhoons will get here tomorrow (shipped from Germany) and my Rasa Kit will get here the day after that (shipped from New York). Now here's the funny part they both shipped yesterday morning and the one from Germany will get here first, is it just me or is there something wrong with this picture????


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So It looks like *my Gentle Typhoons will get here tomorrow* (shipped from Germany) and my Rasa Kit will get here the day after that (shipped from New York). Now here's the funny part they both shipped yesterday morning and the one from Germany will get here first, is it just me or is there something wrong with this picture????


Sorry they have been diverted to a UK user


----------



## chineytt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> You need AVX LinX, I think this is the right one


hey buddy thanks!!

was away for a small bit, back in the game

i actually have ALL the cores set to default including the 6990 and i am still maxing out ALL SETTINGS on game.. loving it..extremely cool temps with plenty headroom if a game want to play da fool


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So It looks like *my Gentle Typhoons will get here tomorrow* (shipped from Germany) and my Rasa Kit will get here the day after that (shipped from New York). Now here's the funny part they both shipped yesterday morning and the one from Germany will get here first, is it just me or is there something wrong with this picture????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry they have been diverted to a UK user
Click to expand...

Yeah Nice Try, but I don't think so


----------



## Boyboyd

How come you ordered them from Germany? Only place with stock?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> How come you ordered them from Germany? Only place with stock?


I've been checking 12 US sites and a handful of non US site daily for months now and they've all been out of stock. Sunday morning I was in a water cooling thread and someone posted a link saying that Aquatuning.us had some in stock, the site said US and Canada but when they shipped the tracking info says they shipped from Germany. I don't really care where they come from I'm just glad to have them


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> How come you ordered them from Germany? Only place with stock?
> 
> 
> 
> I've been checking 12 US sites and a handful of non US site daily for months now and they've all been out of stock. Sunday morning I was in a water cooling thread and someone posted a link saying that Aquatuning.us had some in stock, the site said US and Canada but when they shipped the tracking info says they shipped from Germany. I don't really care where they come from I'm just glad to have them
Click to expand...

That sucks, but at least you have them now. I was pretty lucky and everywhere had loads of stock when I got mine.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> How come you ordered them from Germany? Only place with stock?
> 
> 
> 
> I've been checking 12 US sites and a handful of non US site daily for months now and they've all been out of stock. Sunday morning I was in a water cooling thread and someone posted a link saying that Aquatuning.us had some in stock, the site said US and Canada but when they shipped the tracking info says they shipped from Germany. I don't really care where they come from I'm just glad to have them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That sucks, but at least you have them now. I was pretty lucky and everywhere had loads of stock when I got mine.
Click to expand...

I emailed Scythe about it and they said that they had some production issues over the past few months and that they should start to be restocked in most retailers soon.


----------



## ReaperX87

Here is mine.


----------



## error-id10t

I think this is still on topic here considering either of these are based on the RX360 - I'm hoping for a reality / sanity-check from owners as I have no previous experience / knowledge.

1st setup:
- Primochill tubing PrimoFlex Pro 16/11 (7/16"ID) white
- Phobya HeGrease Extreme
- Scythe Gentle Typhoon Fan 1850 rpm x 3
- XSPC RX360 Radiator
- XSPC RayStorm
- XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25" Reservoir
- Koolance PMP-450 12V Variable Speed Pump
- EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC580 DCII Acetal+EN Nickel
- 800D case

2nd setup:
- RX360 kit
- XSPC RayStorm
- AS5
- EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC580 DCII Acetal+EN Nickel
- 800D case
- Re-use my Nexus Real Silent PWM fans

The price difference between the 2 setups is ~$200 (the first 3 items on the 1st setup are from OS increasing the cost additionally). Considering the price difference, is the first setup anywhere near worth it compared to the kit? If I change the case to HAF 932 for the 1st setup then they'd be pretty much similar in price? Better suggestions?

I don't want anything flashy or glowing, just good performance which is as quiet as possible?


----------



## Los Hog

I would go with the first set up


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> I think this is still on topic here considering either of these are based on the RX360 - I'm hoping for a reality / sanity-check from owners as I have no previous experience / knowledge.
> 
> 1st setup:
> - Primochill tubing PrimoFlex Pro 16/11 (7/16"ID) white
> - Phobya HeGrease Extreme
> - Scythe Gentle Typhoon Fan 1850 rpm x 3
> - XSPC RX360 Radiator
> - XSPC RayStorm
> - XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25" Reservoir
> - Koolance PMP-450 12V Variable Speed Pump
> - EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC580 DCII Acetal+EN Nickel
> - 800D case
> 
> 2nd setup:
> - RX360 kit
> - XSPC RayStorm
> - AS5
> - EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC580 DCII Acetal+EN Nickel
> - 800D case
> - Re-use my Nexus Real Silent PWM fans
> 
> The price difference between the 2 setups is ~$200 (the first 3 items on the 1st setup are from OS increasing the cost additionally). Considering the price difference, is the first setup anywhere near worth it compared to the kit? If I change the case to HAF 932 for the 1st setup then they'd be pretty much similar in price? Better suggestions?
> 
> I don't want anything flashy or glowing, just good performance which is as quiet as possible?


I agree with Los Hog, go with the 1st set up it will both look nicer and give you better results


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReaperX87*
> 
> Here is mine.


WoW you did a great job on your rig, the tubes look like they have actual blood flowing in them which is just a guess but I think that was the look you were going for. I'm not a huge fan of red but it still looks great









+ Rep


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well my Gentle Typhoon AP-15's just arrived, shipped on Monday from Germany and arrived Wednesday in Tucson Arizona USA for only $6 shipping !



My RS240 kit should be here tomorrow


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well my Gentle Typhoon AP-15's just arrived, shipped on Monday from Germany and arrived Wednesday in Tucson Arizona USA for only $6 shipping !
> 
> My RS240 kit should be here tomorrow


So awesome. Nice fans!

I'll prob do a cpu block come spring next year, Maybe i'll get me some of those bad boys.


----------



## Greenback

well found this from dazmode again don't know if he is doing it or it is a real xspc kit but he does say from xspc
raystorm ex kit


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> well found this from dazmode again don't know if he is doing it or it is a real xspc kit but he does say from xspc
> raystorm ex kit


Well, we do know that XSPC was planning on releasing EX kits sometime in the near future so maybe it's going to be soon, probably will hit the UK first like always though! On another note I don't know why but that guys voice really bugs me, it's not the accent but it just bugs me the only comparison I can make is fingernails on a chalkboard. Every time I watch one of his vids it starts to play and I jump and scramble to turn down the volume







Best guess is that his voice is at a frequency that my ears just don't like, used to have a co-worker like that thank God she quit


----------



## Los Hog




----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well, we do know that XSPC was planning on releasing EX kits sometime in the near future so maybe it's going to be soon, probably will hit the UK first like always though! On another note I don't know why but that guys voice really bugs me, it's not the accent but it just bugs me the only comparison I can make is fingernails on a chalkboard. Every time I watch one of his vids it starts to play and I jump and scramble to turn down the volume
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best guess is that his voice is at a frequency that my ears just don't like, used to have a co-worker like that thank God she quit


I'd agree the only other thing is he always has to mention ek when he is talking about xspc think he must make more profit on ek stuff, in this he say the hf is better then raystorm he obviously hasn't seen reviews


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Looking at getting the rs240 kit. The pump inside the reservoir are you able to replace with something that is quieter? What is a good pump that is quiet?


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BackwoodsNC*
> 
> Looking at getting the rs240 kit. The pump inside the reservoir are you able to replace with something that is quieter? What is a good pump that is quiet?


as far as I know the pump that comes with the kit is quiet once all the air is bled, if it's still noisy it's faulty


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> as far as I know the pump that comes with the kit is quiet once all the air is bled, if it's still noisy it's faulty


I honestly can't tell if mine still has air in it, or if it is bad. Its been filled for a few days, so I don't understand how it still has air in the pump. Here's a video:




Sorry for the quality. Had to use the camera's on-board mic.


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> I honestly can't tell if mine still has air in it, or if it is bad. Its been filled for a few days, so I don't understand how it still has air in the pump. Here's a video...Sorry for the quality. Had to use the camera's on-board mic.


Hi Friend,

Um, my observation:

1. The sound of the pump is different when listened to directly, versus when listening to it via a recorded video (that's just me).
2. Favor: can you turn off the fans and try recording it again?

On my end what I will do is record mine as well and listen to it (due to Reason #1 I mentioned). So that I will have a reference point. This is because in my perception, the way that the pump sounds when recorded through a microphone sounds "noisier" than in real life. If I were to immediately make a judgment without doing so, I would have said that your pump is noisy, so there.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BackwoodsNC*
> 
> Looking at getting the rs240 kit. The pump inside the reservoir are you able to replace with something that is quieter? What is a good pump that is quiet?


To directly answer you question no the pump in the res that comes in the kits is not replaceable, the res is sealed so you can't gain access to the pump. However XSPC does make Reservoir's that have separate pumps like this one:
XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir for MCP655 Pump


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> I honestly can't tell if mine still has air in it, or if it is bad. Its been filled for a few days, so I don't understand how it still has air in the pump. Here's a video:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the quality. Had to use the camera's on-board mic.


I know my pump doesn't have that rattly noise like in the video... but that could just be the recording changing the noise. My pump just makes a humming noise.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topet2k12001*
> 
> Hi Friend,
> Um, my observation:
> 1. The sound of the pump is different when listened to directly, versus when listening to it via a recorded video (that's just me).
> 2. Favor: can you turn off the fans and try recording it again?
> On my end what I will do is record mine as well and listen to it (due to Reason #1 I mentioned). So that I will have a reference point. This is because in my perception, the way that the pump sounds when recorded through a microphone sounds "noisier" than in real life. If I were to immediately make a judgment without doing so, I would have said that your pump is noisy, so there.


1. Agree, but I don't have anything else to record with.
2. I'll jump the PSU when I get home and run just the pump.

When I first got the pump, it did hum (which I know is normal), but it has progressed to a rattle that is audible even with my case fans turned to up 100%.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topet2k12001*
> 
> Hi Friend,
> Um, my observation:
> 1. The sound of the pump is different when listened to directly, versus when listening to it via a recorded video (that's just me).
> 2. Favor: can you turn off the fans and try recording it again?
> On my end what I will do is record mine as well and listen to it (due to Reason #1 I mentioned). So that I will have a reference point. This is because in my perception, the way that the pump sounds when recorded through a microphone sounds "noisier" than in real life. If I were to immediately make a judgment without doing so, I would have said that your pump is noisy, so there.


1. Agree, but I don't have anything else to record with.
2. I'll jump the PSU when I get home and run just the pump.

When I first got the pump, it did hum (which I know is normal), but it has progressed to a rattle that is audible even with my case fans turned to up 100%.

The video did make the noise a little louder than I experience because of it's position vs. mine, but the actual noise made is the same.


----------



## Los Hog

@ rdfloyd I know when i had a rasa kit it made a noise for 2 days then all the air got out and it stopped. But if you need here is the link for XSPC make a good video they will want one LINK


----------



## emeianoite

*Hi guys,

this was my project this week.

I had to tear apart my old Antec 300
*









*I removed my 3.5 Drive tray to give me room so I can mount the watercooling internally. I bought the evercool dual 5.25 to 3x 3.5 bay. I swapped out the front 80mm fan for a blue LED that had a higher CFM rating. It keeps my 2x 300GB Velociraptors + 750GB Seagate drives nice a cool







*










but anyways, once everything was out. I started getting everything hooked up.





































*Going into







*




































































































*OPTICAL DRIVE* _WHO_?







And it all fit so well


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*
> 
> *Hi guys,
> this was my project this week.
> I had to tear apart my old Antec 300*
> *MEGA SNIP*


Old processor and budget motherboard. I would hope you're making future upgrades to really put that kit under stress.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, I'm glad to finally see someone that applies thermal compound the way that I do







Plus the build looks good too


----------



## emeianoite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Old processor and budget motherboard. I would hope you're making future upgrades to really put that kit under stress.


You gotta prep the soil before you plant the seed. I'm upgrading next year... but for a budget mobo and proc, 4.05Ghz ain't no joke








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well, I'm glad to finally see someone that applies thermal compound the way that I do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus the build looks good too


hehe, been applying it like this for years, that whole drop method, I find insufficient, i'm just anal I guess.


----------



## Los Hog

Man thats a fine job I like it


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*
> 
> *Hi guys,
> this was my project this week.]*


Wow, same case as mine. It will serve you well for watercooling.







Please visit my profile pics for samples.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Old processor and budget motherboard. I would hope you're making future upgrades to really put that kit under stress.
> 
> 
> 
> You gotta prep the soil before you plant the seed. I'm upgrading next year... but for a budget mobo and proc, 4.05Ghz ain't no joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well, I'm glad to finally see someone that applies thermal compound the way that I do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus the build looks good too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> hehe, been applying it like this for years, that whole drop method, I find insufficient, i'm just anal I guess.
Click to expand...

Well, when I tried the drop in just the center it seemed that no matter how big I made the drop it never reached the corners of the chip unless the drop was big enough that the TIM squirted out over the edges and all over the place.


----------



## Los Hog

I put mine in a X and works for me


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well, when I tried the drop in just the center it seemed that no matter how big I made the drop it never reached the corners of the chip unless the drop was big enough that the TIM squirted out over the edges and all over the place.


In my case I tried the "pea in the middle", the "parallel lines", the "pentagon", the "cross", and the "spread it like peanut butter" method. I observed no differences in my temps. Right now I'm on the "spread it like peanut butter" type.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I put mine in a X and works for me


Yeah I can see where that would work too


----------



## WeirdHarold

Anyway sign me up cause my rasa kit is here and I'll start the install process as soon as my motherboard standoffs get here sometime this afternoon.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Oh yeah when I do get it put together I have a surprise for you all, at least I think I will if it works that is


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Anyway sign me up cause my rasa kit is here and I'll start the install process as soon as my motherboard standoffs get here sometime this afternoon.


Nice! Take pictures for each step of your build, for those are good memories. I did the same because my rig is my first "build-on-your own".


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yeah I can see where that would work too


Lolz, something "dirty" came across my mind when I read this.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Not only is it my fist water cooling build (getting my feet wet) but I just figured this was a great place to start and then over the next year I can just upgrade certain parts here and there till I have it just the was I want it. Fist upgrade is the radiator, I'll swap out the rs240 for an EX480 which will fill the top of my case


----------



## emeianoite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Not only is it my fist water cooling build (getting my feet wet) but I just figured this was a great place to start and then over the next year I can just upgrade certain parts here and there till I have it just the was I want it. Fist upgrade is the radiator, I'll swap out the rs240 for an EX480 which will fill the top of my case


It truly is an awesome starter kit, my old WC was bigwater by thermaltake... it was on liquidation sale @ radioshack (When they had a PC isle) 3 years ago for 35 bucks. With the RS240 kit, I dropped my temps by 5*c but my artic silver 5 hasn't cured yet and i'm running my E8400 vCore around 1.32-34. I'm sure i'm looking to see about 9* c drop







plus MUCH more headroom for overclocking. I'm also going to be buying 1/2 Primo blue tubing and 2x EX240 rads.


----------



## WeirdHarold

The Radioshacks here still have a PC asile, well that they sell stuff for PC's like the AS5 I go there to get mine.


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Anyway sign me up cause my rasa kit is here and I'll start the install process as soon as my motherboard standoffs get here sometime this afternoon.


Ahh.. i remember my first watercooling kit (aside from the OG Koolance PC-2 case I had) lots of fun putting everything together and gettin it just right. Makes me want another kit REAL bad..







Too bad Santa doesn't deliver $300 WC setups...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Sure he does, but you're just not thinking of the right Santa go look in the mirror


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Sure he does, but you're just not thinking of the right Santa go look in the mirror


Haha.. this "santa" already brought me my FX-8120, 16gb 2133, and a Das Keyboard Ultimate S


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well damn then stop complaining sounds like Santa's been really good to you this year LoL, just kidding I know what you mean


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Anyway sign me up


Here you go fill this out and your in the club LINK








*XSPC Rasa 750 Owners Club*


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Anyway sign me up
> 
> 
> 
> Here you go fill this out and your in the club LINK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *XSPC Rasa 750 Owners Club*
Click to expand...

Thanks Los









+rep


----------



## WeirdHarold

My motherboard standoffs got here early this afternoon and I've now mounted the motherboard into the case and mounted the CPU waterblock onto the motherboard:


Does anyone see something in the above pics that doesn't quite make sense?


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> My motherboard standoffs got here early this afternoon and I've now mounted the motherboard into the case and mounted the CPU waterblock onto the motherboard:
> 
> 
> Does anyone see something in the above pics that doesn't quite make sense?


haha.. took me a moment.. then I realized your issue.. looks like the wrong block/mounting top for it.. doh!
You forget to order the amd block?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, actually I don't need the AMD bracket it came with the kit! So you did spot the thing that didn't quite make sense in the pic but you didn't really see why, confused yet?

Ok here is what I did: A couple of months back I found an AMD to Intel socket 775 adapter made by Enzotech, they call it the Type X Retention Module. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708046


When my Rasa kit got here this morning I noticed that the Socket 775 back plate that came in the kit had threaded inserts in it's ends:


I removed them from the back plate and then drilled the holes in the Enzotech adapter out a bit so that I could put the threaded inserts into it:


And Bamm no need to use that rather huge and ugly AMD bracket and silver hardware I was able to use the Intel mounting hardware


----------



## WeirdHarold

Anyway the Radiator and the Pump / Res are in:



Remember that Rad is only going to be in there for a few months, at least I hope


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Anyway the Radiator and the Pump / Res are in:
> Remember that Rad is only going to be in there for a few months, at least I hope


Nice! +REP to you sir for the idea about the mounting bracket.


----------



## Chainspell

great just great...

I just got my RX360 kit today and looks like the pump isn't working... I connected everything to do a leak test, so I only have the power supply in, and I go to turn it on and the pump doesn't pump..... is there anything special I have to do to turn the pump on? I used the adapter for the 24pin to turn the PS on and there's power coming out of the molex coz I tested it with my fan and it works.

sad panda









do I get a replacement from frozencpu or from the manufacturer? do I really have to pack everything back together like humpty dumpty or just send them the reservoir/pump...?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> great just great...
> I just got my RX360 kit today and looks like the pump isn't working... I connected everything to do a leak test, so I only have the power supply in, and I go to turn it on and the pump doesn't pump..... is there anything special I have to do to turn the pump on? I used the adapter for the 24pin to turn the PS on and there's power coming out of the molex coz I tested it with my fan and it works.
> sad panda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do I get a replacement from frozencpu or from the manufacturer? do I really have to pack everything back together like humpty dumpty or just send them the reservoir/pump...?


Email XSPC. Los Hog had the link a few posts up.


----------



## Chainspell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Email XSPC. Los Hog had the link a few posts up.


so it really is a dead pump right? there's no magic lever??







super sad panda.... now I'm not gonna be able to tweak my new 3930k over the weekend


----------



## G3RG

How much will a rx120 do added to an rs240 cpu only loop?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Email XSPC. Los Hog had the link a few posts up.
> 
> 
> 
> so it really is a dead pump right? there's no magic lever??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> super sad panda.... now I'm not gonna be able to tweak my new 3930k over the weekend
Click to expand...

make sure the pins have not pushed back in the molex connector first, I've seen some posts that said the connector is kinda cheep and that they sometimes don't make contact when you plug them in !


----------



## Chainspell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> make sure the pins have not pushed back in the molex connector first, I've seen some posts that said the connector is kinda cheep and that they sometimes don't make contact when you plug them in !


yeap I even looked to see if the copper wire on the molex was even connecting to the "pins". I emailed both xspc and frozencpu we'll see what they say









UPDATE: so I guess the pump is not dead because while I was trying it again and plugged it in the pump turned on for half a second, before it wouldn't turn on at all. So I'm thinking it's the wiring on the molex connector or something... right? I checked the wires if they were making contact with the pins and they were (or seems like it is fine) So I tried it over and over to get the same effect but I it's just not working.... I can deal with wires, I can splice it to get to the bottom of this thing, but I'm worried about voiding the warranty. Which is what? 1 year?


----------



## WeirdHarold

I'd just wait to see what the have to say before you start cutting and splicing. XSPC all in all from what people have posted seems to be pretty good about their warranty, but it does suck that you got all your stuff and now you have more waiting to do


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G3RG*
> 
> How much will a rx120 do added to an rs240 cpu only loop?


You probably wouldn't see much of a difference on your idle temps but it would probably help your loaded temps by at least a little bit, but never having done it I can't give you any idea of how much the temp difference would or might be.


----------



## Chainspell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'd just wait to see what the have to say before you start cutting and splicing. XSPC all in all from what people have posted seems to be pretty good about their warranty, but it does suck that you got all your stuff and now you have more waiting to do


update again so I guess I have to hold the molex a certain way... because it worked again for a good few seconds... also when it's not working theres a very very low hum that i hear... like the pump is receiving power but its not getting all of the power... so maybe the molex.. maybe the wiring.. maybe there's a short in the pump... man i really regret buying the kit now, i wish i had just bought individual parts.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'd just wait to see what the have to say before you start cutting and splicing. XSPC all in all from what people have posted seems to be pretty good about their warranty, but it does suck that you got all your stuff and now you have more waiting to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> update again so I guess I have to hold the molex a certain way... because it worked again for a good few seconds... also when it's not working theres a very very low hum that i hear... like the pump is receiving power but its not getting all of the power... so maybe the molex.. maybe the wiring.. maybe there's a short in the pump... man i really regret buying the kit now, i wish i had just bought individual parts.
Click to expand...

Just remember there is no guarantee that if you had bought individual parts that you wouldn't be having the same problem you are now. Any manufacturer especially when it comes to electronics will have problems from time to time, just look at the reviews for any product at like newegg for example you'll see 20 or more people say how awesome it is then one that says it sucks cause of the problems is caused them. Your situation does suck so don't get me wrong, but this is the chance we take every time we order parts for our builds that they may or may no work when they get to us. Still if I were you I'd wait to see what either of the companies says before you start cutting wires, because as you said could be a short in the pump itself and if it is cutting the wires will do nothing but void the warranty. Good luck to you, I really do hope that you get it figured out and without having to send the pump in for warranty.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Oops Double post


----------



## WeirdHarold

On another note how tight so you need to get the clamps that come in the kit, you know the ratcheting plastic ones? Also what's the best way you all have found to tighten them?

I tightened them down as far as I could with my fingers then I put a pair of pliers on them and got them to snap one more little click anything beyond that and they just pop back.

So as you've probably guessed from the above question the tubing is in:


Well, GREAT NEWS at least for me: I put some water in the system and fired it up for leak testing and not only are there no leaks but the pump is whisper quiet from the get go


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well, GREAT NEWS at least for me: I put some water in the system and fired it up for *lead* testing and not only are there no leaks but the pump is whisper quiet from the get got


hope you didn't find any


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well, GREAT NEWS at least for me: I put some water in the system and fired it up for *lead* testing and not only are there no leaks but the pump is whisper quiet from the get got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you didn't find any
Click to expand...

God I just love Typos









I fixed it !


----------



## WeirdHarold

Loop has been running for a few hours now and still no leaks, no lead either


----------



## Los Hog

Man that loop looks great even with a funny mod


----------



## Greenback

first time I did my loop I leak tested for 5 hours , then I changed fittings new blocks leak tested for as long as it took to get the bulk of the air our 30 minutes


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> On another note how tight so you need to get the clamps that come in the kit, you know the ratcheting plastic ones? Also what's the best way you all have found to tighten them?
> I tightened them down as far as I could with my fingers then I put a pair of pliers on them and got them to snap one more little click anything beyond that and they just pop back.


I tried to use those things, but they didn't work very well. So I used some black zipties which holds on much better. Anyways, I highly doubt my 3/8" tubing is just going to waltz off these 1/2" barbs.









On another note, I am envious of your pump. I'm fairly sure I've got a bad one. When I first start the computer, it sounds like it will explode, but within 30 minutes, it's down to a slight rattle, then after a few hours, it's quiet. I don't think it is cavitation because once all the air is gone from inside the impeller, how will it get back in?


----------



## emeianoite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G3RG*
> 
> How much will a rx120 do added to an rs240 cpu only loop?


My northbridge used to get toasty, specially with the loose heatsink my mobo came with....

This solved my problems, and fairly well too.


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*
> 
> My northbridge used to get toasty, specially with the loose heatsink my mobo came with....
> This solved my problems, and fairly well too.


Approx. how much cooler?


----------



## Los Hog

Man that looks great


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*


What do you have connected in the hard drive cage?


----------



## Los Hog

Thats were the pump/res is


----------



## emeianoite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G3RG*
> 
> Approx. how much cooler?


It was hot, almost burned to the touch, now it's cool. Exact temp... not sure, but it's a hell of a lot colder








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> What do you have connected in the hard drive cage?


On the CM690 ii, you can remove the bottom 3/4's of the harddrive cage, leaving you with 2 spots which are retained by rivots holding it up against the 5.25" drive trays. On the second 3.5" tray, I have a 4 pin molex to 6 3pin adapter, which I zip tied to the rear.











it powers my 2 120 radiator fans up top, my waterpump (which i'm thinking of running directly to a molex via 3pin to 4pin adapter), the pump LED and the lower 140mm fan.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *G3RG*
> 
> Approx. how much cooler?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was hot, almost burned to the touch, now it's cool. Exact temp... not sure, but it's a hell of a lot colder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> What do you have connected in the hard drive cage?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> On the CM690 ii, you can remove the bottom 3/4's of the harddrive cage, leaving you with 2 spots which are retained by rivots holding it up against the 5.25" drive trays. On the second 3.5" tray, I have a 4 pin molex to 6 3pin adapter, which I zip tied to the rear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it powers my 2 120 radiator fans up top, my waterpump (which i'm thinking of running directly to a molex via 3pin to 4pin adapter), the pump LED and the lower 140mm fan.
Click to expand...

I prefer to use these for my fans because you can tuck them out of sight easier:


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I prefer to use these for my fans because you can tuck them out of sight easier:


I use this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998808
with 4 of these:
http://www.jab-tech.com/12-3-pin-extension-cable-FC33-12BKS-Black-Factory-sleeved-pr-4242.html


----------



## Mazda6i07

well, here's a little update to my build. Added a block onto the gpu. Temps are sitting at a solid 35c at idle, not sure what they are at while gaming. Also, the tubing that came with the kit obviously isnt very good so that's why my tubing is different "colors." Anyways, added an Ex120 rad. On to the pics

Sorry for bad quality, stupid iphone...


----------



## Los Hog

Nice I like your cable management


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*
> 
> It was hot, almost burned to the touch, now it's cool. Exact temp... not sure, but it's a hell of a lot colder


Well I bought an rx120 so we'll see next week how much difference it makes =]


----------



## WeirdHarold

Looks good Mazda


----------



## Mazda6i07

Thanks Hog!! I try








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Looks good Mazda


Thanks


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> great just great...
> 
> I just got my RX360 kit today and looks like the pump isn't working... I connected everything to do a leak test, so I only have the power supply in, and I go to turn it on and the pump doesn't pump..... is there anything special I have to do to turn the pump on? I used the adapter for the 24pin to turn the PS on and there's power coming out of the molex coz I tested it with my fan and it works.
> 
> sad panda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do I get a replacement from frozencpu or from the manufacturer? do I really have to pack everything back together like humpty dumpty or just send them the reservoir/pump...?


You ever fix this?


----------



## Chainspell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> great just great...
> 
> I just got my RX360 kit today and looks like the pump isn't working... I connected everything to do a leak test, so I only have the power supply in, and I go to turn it on and the pump doesn't pump..... is there anything special I have to do to turn the pump on? I used the adapter for the 24pin to turn the PS on and there's power coming out of the molex coz I tested it with my fan and it works.
> 
> sad panda
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do I get a replacement from frozencpu or from the manufacturer? do I really have to pack everything back together like humpty dumpty or just send them the reservoir/pump...?
> 
> 
> 
> You ever fix this?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the concern. I got it to work at one time but after i restarted the power supply it didn't start again. I sent a video to xspc and he asked me to wiggle the molex, and make sure it's plugged in. So i emailed him back. i hope next step is he's gonna send the replacement.


----------



## GoodInk

You may have said this before, but have you tried using a different connector from the PSU?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> Thanks for the concern. I got it to work at one time but after i restarted the power supply it didn't start again. I sent a video to xspc and he asked me to wiggle the molex, and make sure it's plugged in. So i emailed him back. i hope next step is he's gonna send the replacement.


This might be a stupid question, but are the male ends of the molex connector all the way into the power supply's molex? Sometimes the pins might not catch on the plastic connector and the male end will slide out (sounds so wrong).


----------



## Los Hog

Well if you do get a new one it will get to you FAST. Then you will be a happy panda


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> Thanks for the concern. I got it to work at one time but after i restarted the power supply it didn't start again. I sent a video to xspc and he asked me to wiggle the molex, and make sure it's plugged in. So i emailed him back. i hope next step is he's gonna send the replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a stupid question, but are the male ends of the molex connector all the way into the power supply's molex? Sometimes the pins might not catch on the plastic connector and the male end will slide out (sounds so wrong).
Click to expand...

Yeah after I plug in every Molex connector I always grab the wires on both sides and push them together as well just to make sure the pins on either side didn't push out the back of the connectors !


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> Thanks for the concern. I got it to work at one time but after i restarted the power supply it didn't start again. I sent a video to xspc and he asked me to wiggle the molex, and make sure it's plugged in. So i emailed him back. i hope next step is he's gonna send the replacement.


if it worked untill you powered down I'd assume it's a lose connection like others have said with the molex, also try wiggling the wires that go into the pump


----------



## Chainspell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> if it worked untill you powered down I'd assume it's a lose connection like others have said with the molex, also try wiggling the wires that go into the pump


yeah I've tried all sorts of things, I've taken off the pins from the molex casing... oh yeah I've gotten really familiar with what color and where it goes now... haha My gut feeling is the wires that are crimped on the molex pins are not fully making contact with the pins, that's why the pump isn't starting because it's not getting all the power it needs. I think if I strip the molex pins out and hardwire to the power supply's molex...

err just got an email from Dazhong. I asked him if I can strip the wire from the molex and not void the warranty. and he said I can try it. this is his exact words:
Quote:


> Sure, we won't run away if there is problem.
> 
> Best Regards
> Dazhong


haha I love the idea of uploading a video to him so that he sees what's up.. so I sent him another video... he has been pretty nice so far









sucks tho that I have to wait... but if he's gonna send a new one out without waiting to get this broken one, i will be one happy customer--given the circumstances.


----------



## Chainspell

my 3930k and my asus rampage iv is just sitting there... quietly and patiently waiting... haha but im burning up inside!! my first "real" water cooling, first full tower case (haf 932), first 32GB of memory... haha and they're just sitting there







gahaha... oh well thats life.

im pretty impressed with the radiator tho, its nice and thick. I got the rx360 comes with 3 fans so I'm pretty excited about that. let's see what this baby can do with the 3930k!.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> my 3930k and my asus rampage iv is just sitting there... quietly and patiently waiting... haha but im burning up inside!! my first "real" water cooling, first full tower case (haf 932), *first 32GB of memory*... haha and they're just sitting there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gahaha... oh well thats life.
> 
> im pretty impressed with the radiator tho, its nice and thick. I got the rx360 comes with 3 fans so I'm pretty excited about that. let's see what this baby can do with the 3930k!.


A little overkill?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> A little overkill?


THIS.IS...OCN!!!!

And no Sparta smileys...


----------



## phamxp426

Hey guys, just joined overclock.net to join this club! I just clicked BUY on the RS240 kit and hopefully it will get here next week. Looking forward to installing it and getting to know you guys. Cheers!


----------



## Chainspell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phamxp426*
> 
> Hey guys, just joined overclock.net to join this club! I just clicked BUY on the RS240 kit and hopefully it will get here next week. Looking forward to installing it and getting to know you guys. Cheers!


Welcome!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> A little overkill?


This is.. Sparta! Lol jk. i do video editing and the like, so I'm gonna try and make use of ram disk.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phamxp426*
> 
> Hey guys, just joined overclock.net to join this club! I just clicked BUY on the RS240 kit and hopefully it will get here next week. Looking forward to installing it and getting to know you guys. Cheers!


Welcome to the party and I'm sure you'll enjoy the kit


----------



## topet2k12001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chainspell*
> 
> yeah I've tried all sorts of things, I've taken off the pins from the molex casing... oh yeah I've gotten really familiar with what color and where it goes now... haha My gut feeling is the wires that are crimped on the molex pins are not fully making contact with the pins, that's why the pump isn't starting because it's not getting all the power it needs. I think if I strip the molex pins out and hardwire to the power supply's molex...
> err just got an email from Dazhong. I asked him if I can strip the wire from the molex and not void the warranty. and he said I can try it. this is his exact words:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, we won't run away if there is problem.
> 
> Best Regards
> Dazhong
> 
> 
> 
> haha I love the idea of uploading a video to him so that he sees what's up.. so I sent him another video... he has been pretty nice so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sucks tho that I have to wait... but if he's gonna send a new one out without waiting to get this broken one, i will be one happy customer--given the circumstances.
Click to expand...

I agree with most, mine was a bit loose when I got it. Typical causes:

1. Molex pins (male) have "fins" on their side so that when you plug it, the pins won't get pushed back and outwards. Could be the "fins" got broken.
2. The Molex plastic itself that holds the male pins got somewhat loose that it couldn't hold even if the "fins" are not broken.

I wish I could help you, it will be relatively easy to fix that (if the problems are just crimping or fixing fins or replacing the Molex plastic). Parts needed to repair those are somehow inexpensive here in the Philippines. In my case, whenever I connect my plug, I prevent the pins from being pushed back with the use of a small screwdriver (like the precision screwdrivers). It's a quick fix but of course for a quality fix, it's best to crimp a new one.


----------



## ReaperX87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> I honestly can't tell if mine still has air in it, or if it is bad. Its been filled for a few days, so I don't understand how it still has air in the pump. Here's a video:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the quality. Had to use the camera's on-board mic.


I had the same issue you need to make sure the pump is completely submerged the liquid level has to be above the pump not just on it,


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReaperX87*
> 
> I had the same issue you need to make sure the pump is completely submerged the liquid level has to be above the pump not just on it,


It's filled as high as it can go without spilling over.


----------



## GoodInk

You can also run the pump out of the case to ensure that it's not something in the case rattling.


----------



## breenemeister

I'm thinking of toying with water cooling as a Christmas present this year. The RASA kits look like a good way to get started. I have some AP-15s I will most likely use in place of stock fans. My case is a Coolermaster ATCS 840, so there's room for a 360 rad at the top by default. I have a 6970 lightning that won't be water cooled as there are no blocks for it. However, I'd like to keep my videocard watercooling options open for the future. Most likely, I will never have more than one videocard.

My questions are:
1. If I get a kit, should I go for the RS or RX 360. I know the RX is the big daddy and has more cooling capability, but would it ever be necessary for a CPU and one video card?
2. Should I cheap out and get an RS 240 or RX 240 and worry about adding a 2nd radiator for a video card when the time presents itself?
3. Since I have the fans already, should I look into putting the parts together myself instead of getting a RASA kit?

Thanks for any advice you can offer!


----------



## Los Hog

You cant beat the price of the kit vs custom and I would get a RX360 that way your ready for and gpu you might cool later


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> I'm thinking of toying with water cooling as a Christmas present this year. The RASA kits look like a good way to get started. I have some AP-15s I will most likely use in place of stock fans. My case is a Coolermaster ATCS 840, so there's room for a 360 rad at the top by default. I have a 6970 lightning that won't be water cooled as there are no blocks for it. However, I'd like to keep my videocard watercooling options open for the future. Most likely, I will never have more than one videocard.
> 
> My questions are:
> 1. If I get a kit, should I go for the RS or RX 360. I know the RX is the big daddy and has more cooling capability, but would it ever be necessary for a CPU and one video card?
> 2. Should I cheap out and get an RS 240 or RX 240 and worry about adding a 2nd radiator for a video card when the time presents itself?
> 3. Since I have the fans already, should I look into putting the parts together myself instead of getting a RASA kit?
> 
> Thanks for any advice you can offer!


1. I would get the RX360, that way you can run your fans at a lower RPM and keep it quiet.
2. Once you get the WC'ing bug it doesn't go away, again get the RX360
3. Only if you are planing on replacing one of the main 3 components, pump, rad, or WB.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ReaperX87*
> 
> I had the same issue you need to make sure the pump is completely submerged the liquid level has to be above the pump not just on it,
> 
> 
> 
> It's filled as high as it can go without spilling over.
Click to expand...

In the video I couldn't hear the slight noise till you put the camera right up next to the res is that how you hear it in real life? Cause I can hear a noise from mine as well if I put my ear next to the res, but I can't hear anything a couple feet away from the case. All pumps will have a unique noise that they make, the motor itself makes noise as does the actual pump impeller as it cuts through the water. This maybe all you are hearing, as some pumps will be louder than others. I've messed with ponds for years now and I've had pumps that made almost not noise then the bought a second one of the exact same pump and it would make allot of noise but still worked. I personally think it is the clearances in the head of the pump where the impeller is, if they are a bit loose the pump makes more noise. If the noise is more than you'd like it to be see what XSPC would be willing to do for you, but I have a feeling unless the noise it so loud you can hear it in the next room they will be unlikely to replace it as I think it's rated at like 40db.


----------



## Matt26LFC

My Raystorm is in guys, I'll have pics and what not up soon. Got a couple sensors too. I'm having trouble bleeding atm, I can hear a slight trickling sound, think its coming from the rad, no matter how I tilt her I just can't get rid of it


----------



## Chainspell

so yeah they're sending a new one to me... hope it gets here soon. bought myself 2 vertex 3s while i was waiting. cant believe my main pc has been down for a week now.


----------



## Chainspell

muwahaha!

here it is! it's almost done and it booted up! my new lga 2011 system! just waiting for a pair of vertex 3 90gb from newegg! I have the rx360 rasa kit, and i mounted the rad on top outside facing down... so we'll see how it goes on thursday when I install my OS. lol I'm so glad it booted up and everything seems to be working fine.


----------



## Los Hog

Now that badboy is running happy panda







and a fine job too


----------



## iced00d

Weekend cleanup with a new Sabertooth 990FX








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iced00d*
> 
> As promised ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much cleaner...


----------



## Los Hog

That Lanboy looks good


----------



## Triple7

Hey guys I'm getting ready to start a project with a RASA XSPC 240. (I would get the 360 but because of space restrictions in my 690 II advanced im going with the 240) I plan on watercooling two GTX 480's with the RASA 240 kit and the swiftech MCW 80 universal GPU blocks found here - http://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-Extreme-Performance-Universal-water-block/dp/B003NAQP6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323901289&sr=8-1. I was wondering if any of you could help me out. I know not to use the stock tubing and to get the primochill stuff, but what size diameter will I need for the MCW80's? As far as temps go I will be overclocking the cards to 800- 850 core and I am fine with anything under 70C. I've been told this kit would be adequate for these conditions by a couple people, but more input would be great. I will not be adding a CPU to the loop and this kit is being dedicated to the graphics cards. As far as heatsinks for the VRM's, I have seen several people use the stock plate and fan that comes on the 480 and plan on doing this myself. I know I will need better heatsinks for the VRM's if I plan to overclock higher.

Thoughts? Suggestions?


----------



## mm67

MCW80's are probably not a good idea with that XSPC pump : http://skinneelabs.com/universalgpu-nv480/8/


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triple7*
> 
> Hey guys I'm getting ready to start a project with a RASA XSPC 240. (I would get the 360 but because of space restrictions in my 690 II advanced im going with the 240) I plan on watercooling two GTX 480's with the RASA 240 kit and the swiftech MCW 80 universal GPU blocks found here - http://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-Extreme-Performance-Universal-water-block/dp/B003NAQP6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323901289&sr=8-1. I was wondering if any of you could help me out. I know not to use the stock tubing and to get the primochill stuff, but what size diameter will I need for the MCW80's? As far as temps go I will be overclocking the cards to 800- 850 core and I am fine with anything under 70C. I've been told this kit would be adequate for these conditions by a couple people, but more input would be great. I will not be adding a CPU to the loop and this kit is being dedicated to the graphics cards. As far as heatsinks for the VRM's, I have seen several people use the stock plate and fan that comes on the 480 and plan on doing this myself. I know I will need better heatsinks for the VRM's if I plan to overclock higher.
> 
> Thoughts? Suggestions?


You need a pump with a higher flow rate and more rad than a 240


----------



## illusive snpr

Hey everyone, I am looking to join the ranks of you XSPC Rasa fans. It is my first time using WC and im rather nervous. I want to water cool my CPU+GPU but, not my current config. I plan on upgrading to a 3770k and 7970. Obviously, I know the specs of those two are rumored and I don't expect anyone to predict heat output or wattage.

My main issue is the NZXT phantom I have. I know the RX360 kit will not fit internally and I am not a fan of making an external loop. I have heard reports that the EX360 can be top-mopunted but it is a slender Rad compared to the much bigger RX240/360. My question is...If I want to WC both a CPU&GPU which would be better, the EX360 or the RX240?

Thanks in advance for future replies.


----------



## Triple7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> You need a pump with a higher flow rate and more rad than a 240


What if I go with the MCW60 instead? According to the chart posted above it has a lot better flow rate. After playing some bf3 with only one card I've realized the performance is enough for me. (Provided I shut off AA and HBAO) I'm going to sell one of the cards and just watercool one now. Would I be able to cool both the CPU and GPU with a 240 or is that pushing it?


----------



## moonmanas

240 came earlier today got it all preliminalarilly installed, knocks spots off my old H50 mod. Temps as yet are not much better though.....tidying up and temp testing later...notice they have ditched the nice chrome barbs too .....







Yesterdays H50 gone and departed ....


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas*
> 
> 240 came earlier today got it all preliminalarilly installed, knocks spots off my old H50 mod. Temps as yet are not much better though.....tidying up and temp testing later...notice they have ditched the nice chrome barbs too .....


That's an awesome looking build. I love it when people who use UV don't try to go over the top. That's a perfect balance!


----------



## Los Hog

It does indeed loook good


----------



## eggs2see

Hey guys

I've recently bought an rs 240 and have a couple of questions.

Firstly, temp wise.. 2500k at 4.5ghz and 1.35v im seeing max core temp of 62c at ambient of around 24c

Secondly, the stock fans are noisy!! whats a good upgrade for the rs 240 rad? I want silence over performance..


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas*
> 
> 240 came earlier today got it all preliminalarilly installed, knocks spots off my old H50 mod. Temps as yet are not much better though.....tidying up and temp testing later...notice they have ditched the nice chrome barbs too .....


What type of barbs are included now?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougshell*
> 
> What type of barbs are included now?


No doubt the same as they've always come with G1/4" to 1/2" Barb


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> No doubt the same as they've always come with G1/4" to 1/2" Barb


They went from chrome to a darkened plate chrome. I think it looks really nice.


----------



## phamxp426

Hey guys, just got in my RS240 today! Can't wait to get it installed. All I need left is go to the supermarket and get some distilled water. Can't wait!


----------



## Makeo

Hey! Ordered my rx120 kit yesterday! Cant wait for it to come in!







But got a question for anyone who can help. So looking at most of the loops on here I see not a lot of people have a drain line, so how do you drain the loop when you need to? Just cut the line some where? Or just pull the hose out of a barb and start aiming it toward the drain bowl or something?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makeo*
> 
> Hey! Ordered my rx120 kit yesterday! Cant wait for it to come in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But got a question for anyone who can help. So looking at most of the loops on here I see not a lot of people have a drain line, so how do you drain the loop when you need to? Just cut the line some where? Or just pull the hose out of a barb and start aiming it toward the drain bowl or something?


You can use either of those methods if you want, thats what i did first time (cut the line) but its a bit messy. I ended up installing a drain tube at the lowest point in my loop makes life much easier. Also when you first start WCing you always seem to end up expanding your loop i.e adding blocks or changing blocks etc so installing a drain tube is really a great idea it saves a lot of messing around.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hey guys, i've done a little testing with regards to my new CPU block The XSPC Raystorm. My previous block was the XSPC Rasa and i did a little testing with that block before i tested my new block.

The tests are nothing special or particularly scientific at all, all i did was conduct three tests.

1. Idle temps (I booted the system up and left it alone for one hour came back and simply wrote down what temps Real Temp was displaying)

2. Load Temps (I ran Prime95 LargeFFTs for one hour came back and again simply wrote down what temps Real Temp was displaying)

3. Gaming Temps (I played Battlefield 3 for an hour exited the game and recorded temps i saw on exit)

I did this for both the Rasa and then the Raystorm.

*Results*

Rasa;

_Test 1 - Idle Temps - Ambient Temp 19C_

33, 27, 32, 27 - AVG across the cores of 29.75C - Delta of 9.75C

_Test 2 - Load Temps - Ambient Temp 19.4C_

53, 51, 51, 49 - AVG across the cores of 51C - Delta of 31.6C

_Test 3 - Gaming Temps - Ambient Temp 20C_

50, 48, 50, 47 - AVG across the cores 48.75C - Delta of 28.75C

Raystorm;

_Test 1 - Idle Temps - Ambient Temp 19.4C_

30, 25, 30, 25 - AVG across the cores of 27.5C - Delta of 8.1C

_Test 2 - Load Temps - Ambient Temp 19.5C_

48, 45, 47, 44 - AVG across the cores of 46C - Delta of 26.5C

_Test 3 - Gaming Temps - Ambient Temp 19.4C_

48, 44, 46, 42 - AVG across the cores of 45C - Delta of 25.6C

So baiscally from the results i obtained through my testing whenever the CPU is doing something im around 3-5C better off over the old Rasa block.

Also im not entirely sure on this however i think my GPUs under load in Battlefield 3 may have been a bit lower too, maybe because of the fact that my Raystorm is a lot less restrictive than the Rasa, i wished i had recorded results from my GPUs aswell now! I may just be remembering wrong, but im sure the temps are a little lower than the last time i played BF3 (which was when i tested my Rasa Block)

Who knows, maybe one day i'll pop the Rasa back in to find out, though i doubt it lol

Will take some pics of my rig soon guys and show ya how far i've come in the last 6 months since it was a CPU only loop









*Couple Images of my Rad mounted in the front of my Antec 1200 with sensor and ghetto shroud







*



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Hope ya's like, will take photos of rig running soon with LEDs on and all


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makeo*
> 
> Hey! Ordered my rx120 kit yesterday! Cant wait for it to come in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But got a question for anyone who can help. So looking at most of the loops on here I see not a lot of people have a drain line, so how do you drain the loop when you need to? Just cut the line some where? Or just pull the hose out of a barb and start aiming it toward the drain bowl or something?


I arranged everything in my loop so that it would be easy to drain. What I do is cut the hose, then grab my shop vac and suck most of the water out. It does a pretty good job. The rest of the water is pretty easy to get out, so long as you know where to cut the hose.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makeo*
> 
> Hey! Ordered my rx120 kit yesterday! Cant wait for it to come in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But got a question for anyone who can help. So looking at most of the loops on here I see not a lot of people have a drain line, so how do you drain the loop when you need to? Just cut the line some where? Or just pull the hose out of a barb and start aiming it toward the drain bowl or something?


You can always build a drainline on the lowest part of your loop. Just add something like this in LINK and LINK


----------



## jackofhearts495

It leaked the first time (didn't crank a barb tight enough I guess), but it's up and running! Now I just need that 6950...


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> It leaked the first time (didn't crank a barb tight enough I guess), but it's up and running! Now I just need that 6950...


No clamps to ensure that the hose doesn't wiggle loose?

Otherwise, looks like an awesome build!


----------



## jackofhearts495

I use heavy duty zip ties (hard to tell in the pictures) because the included clamps weren't big enough. The leak wasn't between the tubing and the barb, but rather the barb and the res.

And thanks!


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I use heavy duty zip ties (hard to tell in the pictures) because the included clamps weren't big enough. The leak wasn't between the tubing and the barb, but rather the barb and the res.
> And thanks!


Oh! I see them now. Dang, you did an awesome job of hiding them.

The next time I clean my loop, I'm going to add painted metal clamps (screw or spring) instead of zip-ties.


----------



## johnpaul

hey guys what about the rx series


----------



## johnpaul

the rx 360 kit


----------



## jackofhearts495

Err... what about it?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> It leaked the first time (didn't crank a barb tight enough I guess), but it's up and running! Now I just need that 6950...
> 
> 
> 
> No clamps to ensure that the hose doesn't wiggle loose?
> 
> Otherwise, looks like an awesome build!
Click to expand...

If you are using 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs then you really don't need clamps or zip ties.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makeo*
> 
> Hey! Ordered my rx120 kit yesterday! Cant wait for it to come in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But got a question for anyone who can help. So looking at most of the loops on here I see not a lot of people have a drain line, so how do you drain the loop when you need to? Just cut the line some where? Or just pull the hose out of a barb and start aiming it toward the drain bowl or something?


I just used to pull the CPU block and pulled the tubing off the barb and drained it like that. My new loop in my Lian Li will have a drain port mainly because its built in to the res I have. I will say it is much easier to drain with a port, but if you are not wanting to spend the extra money on it, you don't need to.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> If you are using 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs then you really don't need clamps or zip ties.


Just to be sure. Helps me sleep at night.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> If you are using 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs then you really don't need clamps or zip ties.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure. Helps me sleep at night.
Click to expand...

Well I sleep just fine but if it helps you sleep, then by all means to it







But it has been argued that using 7/16" tubing with 1/2" barbs is more secure than compression fittings. I have never used them so I can't really say my self if it is true.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Well I sleep just fine but if it helps you sleep, then by all means to it


Judging my the way I sleep now (used to have mild insomnia), I think I'm going to keep everything the way it is. Call it voodoo...


----------



## johnpaul

Doea anybody have the xspc 750 rx360 kit? Any pictures?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnpaul*
> 
> Doea anybody have the xspc 750 rx360 kit? Any pictures?


Looks exactly like the RX240 kit with 120mm of extra radiator. OP has a list of pictures with people who have RX360 kits.


----------



## phamxp426

I finally got my RS240 installed! I know it's not the most modern system or the neatest, but I did my best and she's mine







Let me know what you guys think!







P.S Anyone know how to flip pictures taken in portrait to change to landscape on these forums? They appear the right way on my computer...


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnpaul*
> 
> Doea anybody have the xspc 750 rx360 kit? Any pictures?


There's plenty of pages here with pictures of builds using RX360MM radiators, or if you want, google images: "XSPC RX360 overclock.net"


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phamxp426*
> 
> I finally got my RS240 installed! I know it's not the most modern system or the neatest, but I did my best and she's mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what you guys think!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S Anyone know how to flip pictures taken in portrait to change to landscape on these forums? They appear the right way on my computer...


Good job !!


----------



## DevilsNight

This is my first post on OC.net so i thought i would start off by posting my XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 cooled rig in here. I also added in a RS120 rad and a Koolance VID-AR587T2 waterblock. Let me know what you think!


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> That's an awesome looking build. I love it when people who use UV don't try to go over the top. That's a perfect balance!


Thanks, it's all just chucked in at present am getting a UD5 when that arrives will install it and tidy it up


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas*
> 
> 240 came earlier today got it all preliminalarilly installed, knocks spots off my old H50 mod. Temps as yet are not much better though.....tidying up and temp testing later...notice they have ditched the nice chrome barbs too .....
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Did a quick OC on the 955 last nite over what I could previously manange without lots of heat with the H50, I also installed two pulling fans under the 240...wow what a difference, with a lesser oc under stress my H50 would be hitting 62/63c, with the 240 it sat at 40c...very impressed with it


----------



## kingofyo1

ohai guise, back again for the first time in close to a year it seems







looks like a ton of new projects here! You're all doing very well with your builds. I'm seriously thinking of getting back into the OC game again, kinda bored with my 4ghz and now that we've got a good thuban OC guide, i'll attempt again and see what I can come up with







When I get home, I'll add pics of my current setup, looks a ton nicer than my previous pictures.

Have a great day peoples!


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilsNight*


Looks good! I like the green.

You might want to consider adding on a backplate, or some form of support for your graphics card. It looks like it's warping under the stress of the block.


----------



## iced00d

@DevilsNight - Nice looking rig man ....


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilsNight*
> 
> This is my first post on OC.net so i thought i would start off by posting my XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 cooled rig in here. I also added in a RS120 rad and a Koolance VID-AR587T2 waterblock. Let me know what you think!]


Welcome to OCN







Thats a very nice build


----------



## phamxp426

Hey guys, a small often heard problem here. I've just finished a couple hours of testing with the RS240 and I was astonished to see such large difference between core 0,1 and core 2,3! It was about a 15c difference. I figured it was a misapplication of thermal paste so I took it off and I saw that the paste had all shifted north... I did a razor blade test and my water block is extremely convex. It makes the most contact in the middle, but large amounts of light larger than a few human hairs show on the sides. How would I go about solving this? Would lapping be the best idea or is this something I would have to take up with XSPC. I have already tried remounting it at least 15 times now and now the difference between the cores at idle is 10c and at load upwards of 25c!







What would I have to do? Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Nevemind guys, I just rotated the block 90 degrees and it seems fine now. Under lord, all 4 cores are within 1-2c of each other. At idle, cores 0,1 are 9-10c hotter than cores 2,3. Would this be considered normal?


----------



## johnpaul

How are the stock fans that come with the kit??


----------



## kingofyo1

stock fans work momentarily, but I would get replacements asap if I were you. Here's some pics of my rig after all the changes I've made







I know, photobomb eh? well let me know what yall think of the newest additions and placements









Thanks
Drew


----------



## GoodInk

Why does it look like chocolate milk in your pump?


----------



## kingofyo1

Probably from the distilled being in there for over 6+ months.. Its about to get time for my yearly cleansing. Will probably run some distilled vinegar through the system to clean out any locked in particles, then flush with distilled


----------



## lsxtrkiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilsNight*
> 
> This is my first post on OC.net so i thought i would start off by posting my XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 cooled rig in here. I also added in a RS120 rad and a Koolance VID-AR587T2 waterblock. Let me know what you think!


did you add the gpu block, ram block and second rad all of the stock res pump combo? it seems like the pump would be be a little weak for that.... i could be wrong but im guessing you would see much better temps with a pump with a higher flow rate...


----------



## lsxtrkiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*
> 
> stock fans work momentarily, but I would get replacements asap if I were you. Here's some pics of my rig after all the changes I've made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know, photobomb eh? well let me know what yall think of the newest additions and placements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Drew


looks like someone has an algae build up.... if i were you id disassemble your block when you drain it and inspect the inside for signs of corrosion im new to wc myself but if my water turned that color id be worried.... or did you have some sort of additive that may have been that color?


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnpaul*
> 
> How are the stock fans that come with the kit??


Get yourself a few of THESE they are the best rad fans around


----------



## wastedkid

Hey guys,

Ive had a few faux WC kits like the H50 H80 and H100. Now im thinking of moving up to the 360 kit and slap that puppy in my case. I have a few hopefully simple to answer questions

1) Are there any known issues with this kit?
2) Should i purchase other accessories at the same time ie Hoses, clamps, fans?
3) Will there be a noticeable difference between the RS360 and H100?


----------



## Los Hog

1) Are there any known issues with this kit?

The tubing that comes with the kit will change color fast you might want new tubing

2) Should i purchase other accessories at the same time ie Hoses, clamps, fans?
If you want better fans look at some yates loons or Ap-15's

3) Will there be a noticeable difference between the RS360 and H100?
Yes you should see about a 10*c drop in temps


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wastedkid*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Ive had a few faux WC kits like the H50 H80 and H100. Now im thinking of moving up to the 360 kit and slap that puppy in my case. I have a few hopefully simple to answer questions
> 
> 1) Are there any known issues with this kit?
> 2) Should i purchase other accessories at the same time ie Hoses, clamps, fans?
> 3) Will there be a noticeable difference between the RS360 and H100?


1. Yes, the pumps are hit or miss when it comes to noise, but XSPC has been very good about replacing them fast with out returning the old one.
2. Most get new tubing do to the stock tubing turning brown, plus most people want colored tubing anyways. Fans, the stock fans are pretty good, but as with any WC'ing setup a lot of people use GT-15's
3. Yes, the higher your OC the more it will show, plus you can add a GPU to the loop with a 360


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DevilsNight*
> 
> This is my first post on OC.net so i thought i would start off by posting my XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 cooled rig in here. I also added in a RS120 rad and a Koolance VID-AR587T2 waterblock. Let me know what you think!
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> did you add the gpu block, ram block and second rad all of the stock res pump combo? it seems like the pump would be be a little weak for that.... i could be wrong but im guessing you would see much better temps with a pump with a higher flow rate...
Click to expand...

Naw the pump will handle that


----------



## douglatins

Should i get the kit and upgrade or go full custom? I was planning on a 500USD build. 200USD for res+pump 100USD for rad, 60 for the raystomr, 60 for H1011s and the rest for tygon tubing, compression fittings.
Or... get the kit, upgrade barbs and tubing, then later, pump and block?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Should i get the kit and upgrade or go full custom? I was planning on a 500USD build. 200USD for res+pump 100USD for rad, 60 for the raystomr, 60 for H1011s and the rest for tygon tubing, compression fittings.
> Or... get the kit, upgrade barbs and tubing, then later, pump and block?


I would say you should go custom if you are replacing most of it anyways, it will be cheaper in the long run.


----------



## lsxtrkiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Naw the pump will handle that


Very interesting....


----------



## breenemeister

I don't Care about the stock tubing changing color to brown. Is there any other reason to upgrade? Is it not durable or too tight/loose fitting on the barbs?

Other than adding an additional point of failure, I like the idea of a drain line. Does the utility of it outweigh the inherent danger for you guys?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> I don't Care about the stock tubing changing color to brown. Is there any other reason to upgrade? Is it not durable or too tight/loose fitting on the barbs?
> Other than adding an additional point of failure, I like the idea of a drain line. Does the utility of it outweigh the inherent danger for you guys?


Tubing is tubing, so if you don't care about the tube clouding up or if you don't have any sharp turns in your loop, then the stock tube should be good. Also, their tube is a lot like the stuff from Home Depot/Lowes, so you can always go pick some more up.

If you do the drain line properly, there shouldn't be a problem. Get a multi-barb tee fitting and put a zip tie around it. Leak-proof like a Huggies diaper.


----------



## Los Hog

I have heard of a few pumps making noise but XSPC always replaces them if you make them a short video. And if you take your time cutting the tubing with a flat end and checking everything over and leak testing it when you build it there is very little danger of leaking. The tubing is 7/16 id over 1/2 barbs so its a very tight fit


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Tubing is tubing, so if you don't care about the tube clouding up or if you don't have any sharp turns in your loop, then the stock tube should be good. Also, their tube is a lot like the stuff from Home Depot/Lowes, so you can always go pick some more up.
> If you do the drain line properly, there shouldn't be a problem. Get a multi-barb tee fitting and put a zip tie around it. Leak-proof like a Huggies diaper.


Thanks. +rep


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> did you add the gpu block, ram block and second rad all of the stock res pump combo? it seems like the pump would be be a little weak for that.... i could be wrong but im guessing you would see much better temps with a pump with a higher flow rate...


I running RX360, RX120, CPU, And a 6990 waterblock, And I can still see water movement in the res. It can do more then you think
















Not a great pic, But my RX360 is at the top. This was just after upgrading to my 2600K.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilsNight*
> 
> This is my first post on OC.net so i thought i would start off by posting my XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 cooled rig in here. I also added in a RS120 rad and a Koolance VID-AR587T2 waterblock. Let me know what you think!


Welcome and nice looking rig


----------



## rdfloyd

I was looking around at some watercooling stuff (I'm addicted, it's official) and I noticed this block. Needless to say, I want it.

Currently, I have a RX 240 cooling my CPU. Obviously, I am going to need another radiator, but what size (would prefer an RX because I can use low noise fans) should the second one be? Also, can the XSPC pump handle an added GPU block and radiator?

Thanks.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> I was looking around at some watercooling stuff (I'm addicted, it's official) and I noticed this block. Needless to say, I want it.
> Currently, I have a RX 240 cooling my CPU. Obviously, I am going to need another radiator, but what size (would prefer an RX because I can use low noise fans) should the second one be? Also, can the XSPC pump handle an added GPU block and radiator?
> Thanks.


The RX240 would be enough to cool cpu+gpu aslong as your looking at stock clocks and not great temps, I would suggest either another RX240 or RX360 to make you future proof. and yes the pump can handle it and more


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> The RX240 would be enough to cool cpu+gpu aslong as your looking at stock clocks and not great temps, I would suggest either another RX240 or RX360 to make you future proof. and yes the pump can handle it and more


Los Hog suggested that I add an EX120 which should handle the added heat from the GPU. I run my 2500k at 4.5Ghz, but am looking to take it up to around 4.8-4.9. The GPU is an EVGA Superclocked version with a 900MHz core.

However, I'm thinking about waiting until next year for ATI and Nvidia to drop their new hardware on the market. Once everyone starts selling to upgrade, I'll buy a used GTX580/570 (maybe two for SLI) and buy blocks for those. This current chip never goes above 65C with 50% fan.


----------



## Greenback

I'd see if your chip goes to 4.9 (I know mine wont without silly volts) and what temps you get.
But if your intending to go sli you should look at a 240 minimum, as you want 1x120 per block + 1x120 OC headroom imo but it's upto you


----------



## johnpaul

if i were to externally mount my rad how would i power my fans like are the cables long enough to go inside my case? are they only 3 pin? i am talking about the fans that come with the rx360 kit


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnpaul*
> 
> if i were to externally mount my rad how would i power my fans like are the cables long enough to go inside my case? are they only 3 pin? i am talking about the fans that come with the rx360 kit


With some like THESE you can plug all your fans into one cable that should go to your fan controller. Make sure your fan controller have 20 or 30 watts a channel to run like three fans per channel


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilsNight*
> 
> I also added in a RS120 rad and a Koolance VID-AR587T2 waterblock. Let me know what you think!


Honestly, I am envy! your rig looks sexy and amazing cable management!









So i hope you enjoy with WC loop rig!


----------



## Nyt Ryda

I need some advice.

I have the RS360 kit and I replaced the RS360 with the RX360 radiator. Im cooling a single 2600k at 5Ghz using 1.485v . My ambiant temps are around 28C-32C.

After priming for a bit , my temps are around 74C-76C. Shouldn't this RX360 be able to keep it cooler ??

Im worried about the pump. If I put my fingers around the tubing coming out of the rad , its not vibrating much.
I also dont hear much noise from this pump over my case fans. The pump has been pretty quiet since I got it - dont know if this is good or bad.

Maybe using dye and water is gunking up stuff ?

I thought I should at least get temps under 72C even at a 30C ambiant


----------



## Los Hog

That is kind of high







dont know how long you been running the loop but you can check for air in the system by tilting the case back and forth to see if there is any air moving. Then you might check your TIM and like you said check your pump


----------



## WeirdHarold

Also what kind of dye are you running? Some dyes will mess up your blocks, so you may need to clean out your block and flush the system!


----------



## Nyt Ryda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Also what kind of dye are you running? Some dyes will mess up your blocks, so you may need to clean out your block and flush the system!


Im using this : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23241


----------



## WeirdHarold

So far the only dye that I've heard that doesn't cause issues is Mayhem Dyes which you can get here, only issue is you have to wait for overseas shipping (if you live in the US).

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/9-mayhem-s-dye


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So far the only dye that I've heard that doesn't cause issues is Mayhem Dyes which you can get here, only issue is you have to wait for overseas shipping (if you live in the US).
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/9-mayhem-s-dye


The wait isn't very long


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So far the only dye that I've heard that doesn't cause issues is Mayhem Dyes which you can get here, only issue is you have to wait for overseas shipping (if you live in the US).
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/9-mayhem-s-dye
> 
> 
> 
> The wait isn't very long
Click to expand...

Yeah probably isn't since shipping seems to work better outside the US







Ordered 8 AP-15 fans from Aquatuning.us they shipped from Germany and were on my doorstep in 3 days. I order something from a US store it ships from one state away and take a week


----------



## phamxp426

Hey all, please help me on these fan configs! Right now I have 2x 140mm front intakes, 1x 230mm side intake, 1x 230mm top exhaust, and 1x 120mm rear exhaust. I recently installed my RS240 at the top of the case, so now the stock 120mm's are pushing out the top with the original 230mm exhaust pulling. However, the radiator is very close to the rear exhaust 120mm fan. Would it better to turn that rear fan around to pukk in fresh cold air for the radiator? I'm afraid that if it is left at exhaust, it'll pull air away from in the intakes of the radiator fans. Sorry if this is confusing and thanks in advance. What should I do?


----------



## moonmanas

Can't see anything here like this so far for AMD platform, using the Intel thumb nut things instead of the supplied AMD standard nuts is much better the plastic washers first placed on the bolts. I also spent a few pence on a universal backplate....


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas*
> 
> Can't see anything here like this so far for AMD platform, using the Intel thumb nut things instead of the supplied AMD standard nuts is much better the plastic washers first placed on the bolts. I also spent a few pence on a universal backplate....


You can do what I did which allowed me to use all of the Intel mounting hardware on an AMD board, here is the link to my build page where I gave a description of what I did:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1156601/little-devil-pc-v8-scratch-n-dent-case-build-log/70#post_15893859


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phamxp426*
> 
> Hey all, please help me on these fan configs! Right now I have 2x 140mm front intakes, 1x 230mm side intake, 1x 230mm top exhaust, and 1x 120mm rear exhaust. I recently installed my RS240 at the top of the case, so now the stock 120mm's are pushing out the top with the original 230mm exhaust pulling. However, the radiator is very close to the rear exhaust 120mm fan. Would it better to turn that rear fan around to pukk in fresh cold air for the radiator? I'm afraid that if it is left at exhaust, it'll pull air away from in the intakes of the radiator fans. Sorry if this is confusing and thanks in advance. What should I do?


I'd leave it the way it is and see what your temps are, if they are good then leave it ! if you want turn the fan around and see if it affects the temps at all but I don't think it will as right now you have more intake than you do exhaust.


----------



## phamxp426

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'd leave it the way it is and see what your temps are, if they are good then leave it ! if you want turn the fan around and see if it affects the temps at all but I don't think it will as right now you have more intake than you do exhaust.


Thanks for the advice! I just left it the way as it is. Temps are just a couple degrees above ambient now! Taking a break from gaming so undervolting and running at stock speeds really does wonders for power consumption and temps







Thanks again!


----------



## lsxtrkiller

well i got everything up and running my 2600k is sitting at 4.2 with 100% load temps around 53c(seems like it should be lower but im fine with it) on my rs240 kit (good?)... ill post some pics a bit later...


----------



## johnpaul

whats a nice case under $250, preferably around $200 that i can internally mount the 750 rasa rx360 kit in?


----------



## johnpaul

should i get an rs im only going to wc my i5 2500k to like 4.5 ghz


----------



## lsxtrkiller

coolermaster haf x would be my choice but i may be partial... and the rs will be fine at 4.5... im only running a 240 kit and i have my i7 2600k now at 4.5 and im only getting temps in the 50c range at 100% load... the x3 rad might be a bit much but bigger is always better for bragging rights... now off to set some blend tests over night


----------



## lsxtrkiller




----------



## JMCB

Well, I'm on a year with my RASA kit. Had to switch the tubing once after a month running what came with it.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnpaul*
> 
> whats a nice case under $250, preferably around $200 that i can internally mount the 750 rasa rx360 kit in?


I have a RX360+ RX120 in my HAF 932









Old pic with my i7 875K. I need to get some new pics


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnpaul*
> 
> whats a nice case under $250, preferably around $200 that i can internally mount the 750 rasa rx360 kit in?


Xigmatek Elysium will give you so many options for mounting plus some unheard of air flow with room to spare for any set up. http://www.overclock.net/t/1042933/the-official-xigmatek-elysium-club

I just spent the last 4 months researching this very same topic (A case to internally mount a 360 rad) and for the money spent IMHO this is the best bang for the buck. Google for the YouTube video review and see what all the fuss is about.


----------



## Fang711

Hi guys, just got my XSPC Rasa 750 with RX240 for xmas. Thought I would post some pics





x4 955 @ 4Ghz

Temps 38c idle, <50c at load.

Case Fractal Arc Midi


----------



## Brissmas

Got my kit yesterday. Not a very big rad but still get awesome temps on the 955.


----------



## GoodInk

That rad will easily cool a CPU.


----------



## johnpaul

what kit would be good to oc my i5 2500k to around 4.6 ghz? im also looking for a case to internally mount it in


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnpaul*
> 
> what kit would be good to oc my i5 2500k to around 4.6 ghz? im also looking for a case to internally mount it in


What case are we talking about here?
RX240 or an EX360 radiator, and an XSPC Raystorm. Very nice waterblock indeed.


----------



## Socom

Here's my first go at watercooling: One off RASA EX360 kit. I also added an EK gtx 480 waterblock. Ignore the ugly fan wires, I need to order a fan controller


----------



## yuisporing

Posted a thread on the water cooling section to find that this thread exists... Ugh.

Thought I'd post here and ask the Rasa community.

I helped my friend assemble his Rasa kit (720 RS240)yesterday and I must say, it was nice and not to mention fun.
We didn't get time to check the temps but I was wondering how much of a performance increase it is to move to a Rasa to make it worth my time.

Currently at 4.5 ghz I get load temps averaging around 62c with prime95 on. I read a review comment on Frozencpu for the kit stating "I purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 Water Cooling Kit to go with my i7 2600k. I have it overclocked to 4.7Ghz and I get idle temps of 23-25c and full load under Prime 95 at 42-45c, @ 4.7Ghz." . Is that accurate?

If those temps are achievable at that clock speed, I'm definitely sold as I can still get a full refund on my h100 and just pay the difference to set up the Rasa.

The best part was the noise... dead silent.

One issue we had though was the 1156 bracket that had been stated to work with the 1155 did not. We actually used his h80 bracket to mount the Rasa on his i52500k. Did anyone else have problems with the shipped bracket and a 1155 socket cpu?


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yuisporing*
> 
> I read a review comment on Frozencpu for the kit stating "I purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 Water Cooling Kit to go with my i7 2600k. I have it overclocked to 4.7Ghz and I get idle temps of 23-25c and full load under Prime 95 at 42-45c, @ 4.7Ghz." . Is that accurate?


That's the million dollar question, to find actual results showing volts and temps here would be great.. but I don't think that exists. But in relation to that comment, yes I've read similar outcomes but I don't see them.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1181680/water-cooling-final-check-comments/10#post_16034331

That my current situation and I attached review for the Raystorm block there which shows he gets similar core temps as me (when we consider I have slightly higher volt requirement).

I've now stopped playing around and will let it simply sit there, hoping temps will keep going down over-time, either more bubbles come out and/or paste settles in.


----------



## Philistine

I am getting ready to install a Rasa RX240 in my AMD rig. I'm a little unsure of how exactly the AMD bracket mounts since there were no instructions included for AMD mounting. I have the AMD bracket installed on the block but I was wondering what is the order of washers, nuts and springs to mount it to the MB.

This is what I'm thinking:



Does this look right?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnpaul*
> 
> what kit would be good to oc my i5 2500k to around 4.6 ghz? im also looking for a case to internally mount it in


Any of them will work for that even the 120 kit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yuisporing*
> 
> I read a review comment on Frozencpu for the kit stating "I purchased the XSPC Rasa 750 Water Cooling Kit to go with my i7 2600k. I have it overclocked to 4.7Ghz and I get idle temps of 23-25c and full load under Prime 95 at 42-45c, @ 4.7Ghz." . Is that accurate?
> 
> 
> 
> That's the million dollar question, to find actual results showing volts and temps here would be great.. but I don't think that exists. But in relation to that comment, yes I've read similar outcomes but I don't see them.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1181680/water-cooling-final-check-comments/10#post_16034331
> 
> That my current situation and I attached review for the Raystorm block there which shows he gets similar core temps as me (when we consider I have slightly higher volt requirement).
> 
> I've now stopped playing around and will let it simply sit there, hoping temps will keep going down over-time, either more bubbles come out and/or paste settles in.
Click to expand...

Well I have a pretty good screen shots with voltages and setting in the 3 post, but its on a i5 750 with the RS240 kit.
http://www.overclock.net/t/882408/official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-240-360-kit-club#post_11547984

Just remember that every CPU will be different and many things will make even more of a difference in temps.


----------



## BramSLI1

Philistine, you can also use the mounting hardware for the Intel mounting kit. To do this all you need to do is use the AMD backplate that came with your motherboard. You don't need to use the nut or the washer that goes on top of the motherboard to do this. Other than that it will go on the same as the AMD mounting kit. Just make sure that you don't overtighten the screws because there aren't very many threads on the backplate.


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yuisporing*
> 
> One issue we had though was the 1156 bracket that had been stated to work with the 1155 did not. We actually used his h80 bracket to mount the Rasa on his i52500k. Did anyone else have problems with the shipped bracket and a 1155 socket cpu?


That kind of sucks. I have an rx360 kit to install tomorrow and don't have any othe backplates besides the silver arrow which I intend to sell. Can anyone else comment on this?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> That kind of sucks. I have an rx360 kit to install tomorrow and don't have any othe backplates besides the silver arrow which I intend to sell. Can anyone else comment on this?


I didn't. Just make sure to use the correct bracket. There is a 1366, 1156, and 1155. The 1155 is the "cross" looking one with a square base. It only goes on one way.


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> That kind of sucks. I have an rx360 kit to install tomorrow and don't have any othe backplates besides the silver arrow which I intend to sell. Can anyone else comment on this?
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't. Just make sure to use the correct bracket. There is a 1366, 1156, and 1155. The 1155 is the "cross" looking one with a square base. It only goes on one way.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. +rep. I haven't even opened the frozencpu box yet.


----------



## pirates712

Ok, I searched through this thread (using the search feature), but of course I can't read the entire thing in a reasonable amount of time. I know how annoying it is when people don't use search, I did try that first!

Anyway, I just got my RS240 hooked up and filled. The pump is making a noise like an old hard drive, and when I squeeze the tubing coming out of the pump the sound gets higher pitched, as if the motor was spinning faster. My question is, for those of you who've had this noise or know what I'm talking about, is this caused by air that will go away in time, or is it a faulty pump? The pump is definitely moving water at a good rate. There are a lot of little bubbles in the reservoir though, so I suspect air is the culprit. I added a little dawn and many of them came out, though not all. Right now I'm trying running the pump with the case on its side: I'll try a couple of different orientations.

Thanks!


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pirates712*
> 
> Ok, I searched through this thread (using the search feature), but of course I can't read the entire thing in a reasonable amount of time. I know how annoying it is when people don't use search, I did try that first!
> Anyway, I just got my RS240 hooked up and filled. The pump is making a noise like an old hard drive, and when I squeeze the tubing coming out of the pump the sound gets higher pitched, as if the motor was spinning faster. My question is, for those of you who've had this noise or know what I'm talking about, is this caused by air that will go away in time, or is it a faulty pump? The pump is definitely moving water at a good rate. There are a lot of little bubbles in the reservoir though, so I suspect air is the culprit. I added a little dawn and many of them came out, though not all. Right now I'm trying running the pump with the case on its side: I'll try a couple of different orientations.
> Thanks!


Sounds like cavitation. It'll go away after a while (mine did). Keep rotation your case around to speed up the process. I'd say give it a week and post back if it doesn't go away. XSPC was very quick to reply to me when I was having pump trouble. Most people on here got new pumps within a week (without having to return the old pumps) once theirs went bad.


----------



## pirates712

Ok thanks! I did email XSPC and they seemed to think it was air as well (very quick response btw).

Is it better for me to leave the pump running or leave it off? I definitely need to leave it off when sleeping but I could leave it on for several hours while at work.

Thanks!


----------



## Philistine

Have you tried tipping the rig side to side and back to front? That will usually work free air pockets.


----------



## pirates712

Yes I have, the bubbles are the little tiny ones that stick to everything relentlessly.


----------



## Los Hog

They will work they way out it just takes time


----------



## breenemeister

Last day of vacation and I'm getting ready to start putting everything together and I've read up and watched some videos, etc. I've noticed that some people leak test by actually installing everything in the case, just using the motherboard and CPU. They tip the case around to remove the air bubbles and everything. Others measure for the tubing, but then actually assemble everything outside of the case and leak test for a day or so. I can see how it would be a pain to do that, then drain the water and then try to put everything together inside the case as one piece with the tubing connecting it all. However, this is obviously the safer method since you find out about leaks before you destroy everything.

Question 1: What do some of you veteran frequent posters recommend in regards to leak testing?

Question 2: Is it better to have the reservoir and pump higher or lower in the case or does it really make a difference?

Thanks


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> Question 1: What do some of you veteran frequent posters recommend in regards to leak testing?
> Question 2: Is it better to have the reservoir and pump higher or lower in the case or does it really make a difference?


1: I went to Home Depot and picked up some 1/2" ID tube and assembled everything outside of my case, just to check that the barbs and o-rings wouldn't leak. Then I assembled everything in my case with 3/8" ID Feser tube and put paper towels anywhere and everywhere that I thought a leak would occur. However, I also knew that unless there was a hole in the tube, there was no way 3/8" tube over a 1/2" was going to leak. I ran the setup for about 24 hours (16 on, 8 off) before I considered it "leak-resistant".

2: With this particular kit, since the pump and reservoir are basically the same things, it doesn't matter where it goes. Just put it in the case where it looks nice.


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> 1: I went to Home Depot and picked up some 1/2" ID tube and assembled everything outside of my case, just to check that the barbs and o-rings wouldn't leak. Then I assembled everything in my case with 3/8" ID Feser tube and put paper towels anywhere and everywhere that I thought a leak would occur. However, I also knew that unless there was a hole in the tube, there was no way 3/8" tube over a 1/2" was going to leak. I ran the setup for about 24 hours (16 on, 8 off) before I considered it "leak-resistant".
> 2: With this particular kit, since the pump and reservoir are basically the same things, it doesn't matter where it goes. Just put it in the case where it looks nice.


Thanks for the quick input once again. +rep.

I did buy some primochill tube that I will use for actual assembly, therefore, I can use the tubing that comes with the kit for leak testing. Based on what you're telling me, the leak testing is really just for the barbs. I won't need to try to put it all together as one piece inside the case since I'll be changing tubing. My tubing is 7/16 inner diameter, so there should be no way of getting leaks with 1/2 inch barbs, correct?. I'll test outside the case then.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> Last day of vacation and I'm getting ready to start putting everything together and I've read up and watched some videos, etc. I've noticed that some people leak test by actually installing everything in the case, just using the motherboard and CPU. They tip the case around to remove the air bubbles and everything. Others measure for the tubing, but then actually assemble everything outside of the case and leak test for a day or so. I can see how it would be a pain to do that, then drain the water and then try to put everything together inside the case as one piece with the tubing connecting it all. However, this is obviously the safer method since you find out about leaks before you destroy everything.
> 
> Question 1: What do some of you veteran frequent posters recommend in regards to leak testing?
> 
> Question 2: Is it better to have the reservoir and pump higher or lower in the case or does it really make a difference?
> 
> Thanks


1. Easiest and still very safe, is to leak test in the case but have the PSU outside the case. The only thing you want connected to the PSU is the pump and the jumper. This way if anything leaks the only thing that has power is the pump and the PSU that is outside the case and it won't get wet. If it does get anything inside the case wet, just let it dry and it will be fine.

2. What he said.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> 1: I went to Home Depot and picked up some 1/2" ID tube and assembled everything outside of my case, just to check that the barbs and o-rings wouldn't leak. Then I assembled everything in my case with 3/8" ID Feser tube and put paper towels anywhere and everywhere that I thought a leak would occur. However, I also knew that unless there was a hole in the tube, there was no way 3/8" tube over a 1/2" was going to leak. I ran the setup for about 24 hours (16 on, 8 off) before I considered it "leak-resistant".
> 2: With this particular kit, since the pump and reservoir are basically the same things, it doesn't matter where it goes. Just put it in the case where it looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick input once again. +rep.
> 
> I did buy some primochill tube that I will use for actual assembly, therefore, I can use the tubing that comes with the kit for leak testing. Based on what you're telling me, the leak testing is really just for the barbs. I won't need to try to put it all together as one piece inside the case since I'll be changing tubing. My tubing is 7/16 inner diameter, so there should be no way of getting leaks with 1/2 inch barbs, correct?. I'll test outside the case then.
Click to expand...

You ninja'ed me .

The only thing I don't like about testing outside the case is that once you put everything in the case the barbs could loosen up on you while you are installing everything and leak. Most people that test outside the case are checking the hardware for leaks and only test for a 2-4 hours. Then they do a second one inside the case to make sure the barbs don't leak once assembled in the case.


----------



## breenemeister

One last question (yeah right). Do you guys mess with using teflon tape on the threads, or do you only do that if there is a leak?


----------



## GoodInk

You should never have to use it. The o-ring makes the seal not the threads. If it's leaking try to replace the the barb or what ever fitting. If that doesn't work you have bad threads or a non flat surface on what ever is leaking. You can try at this point to use teflon tape, but I would RMA it if possible.

Edit: You can also try putting Dow-55 on the o-ring. I use it on my paintball marker, it makes o-rings swell and could make a tighter seal.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> One last question (yeah right). Do you guys mess with using teflon tape on the threads, or do you only do that if there is a leak?


No tape. The fittings all have o-rings and ideally should be all you need. Tape is not really for wc gear anyways and is a stop gap.


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You should never have to use it. The o-ring makes the seal not the threads. If it's leaking try to replace the the barb or what ever fitting. If that doesn't work you have bad threads or a non flat surface on what ever is leaking. You can try at this point to use teflon tape, but I would RMA it if possible.
> Edit: You can also try putting Dow-55 on the o-ring. I use it on my paintball marker, it makes o-rings swell and could make a tighter seal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> No tape. The fittings all have o-rings and ideally should be all you need. Tape is not really for wc gear anyways and is a stop gap.


Thanks guys, +rep


----------



## GoodInk

NP thats what this place is for, and showing off your rig


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> Do you guys mess with using teflon tape on the threads, or do you only do that if there is a leak?


I'm going to go against what the other posters have stated. I do use teflon, mainly because I use it "correctly". All it does is "clot" up the threads so that water cannot pass between them. But you have to be careful that the teflon does not get caught in the loop. So if you apply it correctly, it shouldn't been a problem, but the o-rings are sufficient enough.


----------



## Los Hog

Each to his own but I have seen posters here say that if you use teflon tape on anything acrylic you can crack it


----------



## MemorableC

So I got my RS240 kit for Christmas and got it all installed fine using the back plate from the h50 it was replacing.
Got it all together (no Teflon has o rings on the barbs) installed and wired up, leak tested and everything.
Only to find out 2 days after I moved everything that my motherboard didn't survive the transplant from my old case in to my new phantom.

So now i am just sitting here waiting for Asus to reply to my rma request during probably there busiest time of the year.

on a side note it looks nice and is on an extended 2 week "leak test".


dont mind the pic its from my new galaxy s2 as well

Next on the checklist pending if i need to replace the motherboard is some sleeving and some ap15's


----------



## breenemeister

I got all of the RX360 kit parts cleaned and installed into the ATCS 840 caseyesterday, but haven't connected the tubes yet. I had to do a little case modding. On the ATCS 840, there is just enough room for a 360 RAD, but the barbs are at the very back end of the case, almost touching it. You can remove the back plate that is there for mounting a PSU on top, so that was easy enough. However, the motherboard tray has a support bracket at the top and bottom to keep the whole end where the backplane goes perpindicular to the tray surface. When installed, that support bracket was about 1.5 to 2 inches directly below one of the barbs. I had to drill out the rivets to remove it. The only other two options were turning the radiator around and having the barbs semi into the 5.25 inch bays or mounting the radiator on the top of the already gigantic case. While I was "modding", I also decided to widen the cpu backplate cut-out with a dremel. The standard cutout obscured some of the 1155 backplate.

I actually found an old post by los hog with a link to a method for cleaining out RADs. I couldn't find a simple kitchen sink adapter with a barb, but I did find one that when to a 3/4 inch garden hose and another than went from a 3/4 inch to a 1/2 inch barb. I ran tapwater through the RAD, the block, and the res for about a minute each and then used about a half gallon of distilled water to rinse out the RAD. I used the rest to rinse out the block and res. Everything is now mounted inside the case. I was on the fence about leak testing inside with the PSU outside, but after removing tubing from barbs in the cleaning process, I decided to test inside. I hope to run the tubes tonight and start testing.

I found that the water block is quite easy to overtighten as you really don't feel much resistance cranking down the screws. By the way, it appears that the kit comes with some extra parts now. I think there is a 2011 backplate with totally different screws as there's an extra that's not shown in the waterblock documentation included in the kit. Also, the standard block has metal washers included along with the nylon ones and this isn't shown in the documentation either. I used the nylon.

Thanks again to everyone who's answered my posts so far. I'll post pics once I get it up and running.


----------



## xSalvation

Does anyone know of any alternate way of mounting the water block. I have the RX360 in my HAF X and the thumbscrews from the water block prevent me from adding a fan directly above it. I have cut out slots in my fan but I am still a couple of mm off. It the thumbscrews were about 5mm shorter then the fan would fit.

Any Ideas?

I am going to look for some similar screws but instead of being thumb screws they will be just regular ones. What type of screws are these?


----------



## dougshell

maybe I am reading your question out of the context of the conversation...

But what exactly are you trying to do with your block, and why are you adding a fan.


----------



## xSalvation

Sorry to confuse.

My RX360 radiator is directly above where the waterblock is. It is perpendicular to the motherboard. When I try to add a fan to the radiator (the slot closest to the waterblock) the thumbscrews from the waterblock get in the way because the waterblock and the radiator are to close together. Basically the area where the fan goes is slightly occupied by the tall screws. If they were shorter then they would be out of the way.

I dont have a strange setup the parts are just too close together.


----------



## lsxtrkiller

do u have the rad mounted directly to the case? or are u using hanging brackets? if ur usig hanging brackets bend them (away from the mobo) so the rad sits at an angle this should give u more clearance....


----------



## lsxtrkiller

Also i now your all crazy about the ap-15s here well i have some scythe 3000 rpm fans on my rad now that are far too loud me, what kinda temp increase am i going to see going down to the ap15s if i do?


----------



## Los Hog

Its. Not the cfm or rpm that make ap 15 a great fan its the high static psi
Even at low speeds


----------



## lsxtrkiller

okay... but am i going to see a temp increase or decrease for that matter switching from my scythe ULTRA KAZE 3000rpm fans?


----------



## Philistine

Crap my pump stopped running. I installed my RX240 kit today. I was just checking for more air by turning the PS off and on every hour or so and now the pump will not turn on. I know the PS is working because the ap-15s run. I even hooked up to a brand new PS and still nothing.

Anyone have any advice?


----------



## mironccr345

I thought my pump died, but my molex cable wasn't properly connected. Try that, and if that doesn't work, you might have to contact XSPC for a new replacement.


----------



## Philistine

I've tried reseating the connector a few times on two different PSUs. Still no go, guess I'll email XSPC.


----------



## Zaxbys

Does anyone use quick disconnects for this system?

I cannot seem to find any to fit 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD tubing.

Any help is greatly appreciated

~Zax


----------



## mironccr345

I've heard XSPC has good customer service. Hopefully you don't have to wait to long for a replacement.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*
> 
> Does anyone use quick disconnects for this system?
> I cannot seem to find any to fit 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD tubing.
> Any help is greatly appreciated
> ~Zax


This is what im using with the same size tubing as yours.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8594/koo-167/Koolance_QDC_High_Flow_Shutoff_Nozzle_Female_Compression_13mm_12_x_19mm_34_VL3-F13-19S.html?id=7Didh88c&mv_pc=300

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8595/koo-168/Koolance_QDC_High_Flow_Shutoff_Nozzle_Male_Compression_13mm_12_x_19mm_34_VL3-M13-19S.html?id=7Didh88c&mv_pc=313


----------



## Zaxbys

How does that fit 7/16" ID 5/8" od tubing? It doesn't leak and fits?


----------



## mironccr345

The fittings are designed for 1/2" ID, but it fits really snug and I've had no leaks.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*
> 
> How does that fit 7/16" ID 5/8" od tubing? It doesn't leak and fits?


You will be very lucky to beable to remove the tubing from the barb without cutting it . Thats how tight 7/16 id fits on a 1/2 barb


----------



## boostinsteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> You will be very lucky to beable to remove the tubing from the barb without cutting it . Thats how tight 7/16 id fits on a 1/2 barb


I have never been able to get it off without cutting. I just re-arranged my loop, and had to cut every connection I took off.


----------



## mironccr345

Ive tried brute strength, and ended up with sore fingers. Much easier to cut them off.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philistine*
> 
> I've tried reseating the connector a few times on two different PSUs. Still no go, guess I'll email XSPC.


I got a reply back in a few hours. They are really good about support. Make sure you send them a video too (of it not working), so they can verify.


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Ive tried brute strength, and ended up with sore fingers. Much easier to cut them off.


Just unscrew a barb that is connected to a rotary fitting and soak the end in HOT water, loosens up the tubing and then you can just pull it off! Then go from there on, all the way around your loop! I'm using 7/16" ID on 1/2" barbs and have NEVER had to cut a piece of tubing


----------



## Makeo

Finally got around to taking pix! got the rx120 kit, I must say its pretty awesome







Can iz join the clubz?! and sorry for cellphone pix lol.

p.s. Don't look at the wires on the left side of the case >_> still need to do some more cable management. Just wanted to get the thing up n running!


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve*
> 
> I have never been able to get it off without cutting. I just re-arranged my loop, and had to cut every connection I took off.


I just got my kit plumbed yesterday. While I was doing the pre-cleaning before using the supplied tubing and connecting it to the faucet with another barb, I was able to get the tubing off via brute force on every piece. Probably has something to do with having them in hand instead of mounted in the case where you can't get full range of motion. A couple of times, you could see left over residue that the barb scraped from the inside of the clear tubing though.


----------



## breenemeister

Finally actually running and testing my kit. Not impressed so far. I'm running 4.8 GHz at 1.360 vcore and my max temp on max core so far was like 65 with the 3 AP-15s running wide open on an RX360. This just doesn't seem right to me. Or was my Silver Arrow just that good? Max temp on max core with the Silver Arrow was 75.


----------



## Philistine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Philistine*
> 
> I've tried reseating the connector a few times on two different PSUs. Still no go, guess I'll email XSPC.
> 
> 
> 
> I got a reply back in a few hours. They are really good about support. Make sure you send them a video too (of it not working), so they can verify.
Click to expand...

Well I'm not sure what happened, but I left it off for the night and tried it again this morning and the pump is running. Everything is great right now. I just got the rig back together and running. Right now after Folding on all cores and both graphics cards (they are not WC for now, but they are pumping heat into the case) I've peaked at 29*C on the CPU. Normally I'd be pushing 48*C on my Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme.


----------



## slice259

I am looking into getting a rx360 kit soon for a Rig upgrade. I have a core i5 750 at 4.2 ghz and I am getting a HD 7970 to water cool. What are your thoughts on a single rx 360 kit handling a core i5 750 at 4.4 ghz and a HD 7970 overclocked? Would that loop handle a second gpu down the road?

Thanks


----------



## Los Hog

The pump will but you may have to add some more rad surface


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> The pump will but you may have to add some more rad surface


Thanks


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> Finally actually running and testing my kit. Not impressed so far. I'm running 4.8 GHz at 1.360 vcore and my max temp on max core so far was like 65 with the 3 AP-15s running wide open on an RX360. This just doesn't seem right to me. Or was my Silver Arrow just that good? Max temp on max core with the Silver Arrow was 75.


What are you using for stress testing? Also, did you mount the block correctly?


----------



## Philistine

I must say, I'm loving this XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 kit. Before I'd top out at ~45*C in Speedfan with my Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme. I've been folding 100% for hours now and I've topped out at 29*C.











I should have installed this sooner.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philistine*
> 
> I must say, I'm loving this XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 kit. Before I'd top out at ~45*C in Speedfan with my Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme. I've been folding 100% for hours now and I've topped out at 29*C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (snip)
> I should have installed this sooner.


I must not be doing something right... my idle temps are higher than your load. I don't think the RX vs. the RS would make THAT big of a difference. My 2500k (at stock settings!) tops out around 49C in Prime95.


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> What are you using for stress testing? Also, did you mount the block correctly?


Prime 95 blend for stress testing. I guess I mounted correctly? I have the in and out on the waterblock side by side. I used mx-4 and did a very thin line down the middle.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I must not be doing something right... my idle temps are higher than your load. I don't think the RX vs. the RS would make THAT big of a difference. My 2500k (at stock settings!) tops out around 49C in Prime95.


He's running a Phenom, which is going to make a difference. Plus, I'm guessing he lives somewhere around here...


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> Prime 95 blend for stress testing. I guess I mounted correctly? I have the in and out on the waterblock side by side. I used mx-4 and did a very thin line down the middle.


What are your other core temps?

Sorry about the double post. Multi-quote kept messing up.


----------



## Philistine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I must not be doing something right... my idle temps are higher than your load. I don't think the RX vs. the RS would make THAT big of a difference. My 2500k (at stock settings!) tops out around 49C in Prime95.
> 
> 
> 
> He's running a Phenom, which is going to make a difference. Plus, I'm guessing he lives somewhere around here...
Click to expand...

LOL Well I am running a 1090T which does have an offset of +13*C from what the thermal sensor reports. So the chip is actually ~41*C. Ambient right now is 21*C giving me a delta of 20*C over ambient. Before my delta over ambient was around 37*C. I'm definitely loving this. Now I just need to upgrade to a MB that can take advantage of the lower temps.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philistine*
> 
> LOL Well I am running a 1090T which does have an *offset of +13*C* from what the thermal sensor reports. So the chip is actually ~41*C. Ambient right now is 21*C giving me a delta of 20*C over ambient. Before my delta over ambient was around 37*C. I'm definitely loving this. Now I just need to upgrade to a MB that can take advantage of the lower temps.


Sorcery I say!

But those are amazing temps. My delta is around 20C as well, but that's with a 2500k.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Ahh right. For some reason I thought he was running a 2500k. My 555 used to run really cool, too. 4GHz, 55C max on the stock cooler


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> What are your other core temps?
> Sorry about the double post. Multi-quote kept messing up.


58 66 65 64


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slice259*
> 
> I am looking into getting a rx360 kit soon for a Rig upgrade. I have a core i5 750 at 4.2 ghz and I am getting a HD 7970 to water cool. What are your thoughts on a single rx 360 kit handling a core i5 750 at 4.4 ghz and a HD 7970 overclocked? Would that loop handle a second gpu down the road?
> Thanks


I've actually had a chance to test those GPUs and they run pretty cool. I have the same kit and I'm thinking of adding a second overclocked GTX 560 Ti. In my opinion I don't think you'd have a problem with a second HD 7970 with that kit.


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've actually had a chance to test those GPUs and they run pretty cool. I have the same kit and I'm thinking of adding a second overclocked GTX 560 Ti. In my opinion I don't think you'd have a problem with a second HD 7970 with that kit.


I have since looked at some overclocking and it seems that water cooling them may be overkill really. Time will tell, I can buy my rx360 kit and plumb it up the following week. The only thing I am not liking about the xspc kits is the Bay res pump. I have a antec 1200, and to install the 5.25 dual bay res I have to remove a front intake. Or I remove the optical bay lol







. I am going to give it a good thinking and see what I come up with. Or someone on OCN can buy the pump from me and I can buy a internal pump and res.


----------



## rdfloyd

This may sound stupid, but does anyone have problems with dust getting between the radiator fins? I haven't had any dust accumulation yet, but _technically_ the rad has everything needed to be a dust magnet. Just curious about what everyone's experiences are.


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> This may sound stupid, but does anyone have problems with dust getting between the radiator fins? I haven't had any dust accumulation yet, but _technically_ the rad has everything needed to be a dust magnet. Just curious about what everyone's experiences are.


On my H50 rad, dust gets on the fins slightly, but its not a problem due too me being a clean freak. I blow my rig out with an air compressor twice a week. If you are the person to wait every 6 months and then only use a can of compressed air then ya its going to be packed on the rad.


----------



## rdfloyd

This was my Sunday night. 4 hours to do just half of the 24-pin. And my thumbs hurt like crazy...


----------



## jackofhearts495

I keep all my intakes filtered and everything's fine. I keep an air cleaner just in case


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> This may sound stupid, but does anyone have problems with dust getting between the radiator fins? I haven't had any dust accumulation yet, but _technically_ the rad has everything needed to be a dust magnet. Just curious about what everyone's experiences are.


After ten months with an external mount rad with P/P it was finally time to upgrade the case and go with a internal setup. Bare in mind I really thought I was doing a very good job of cleaning once every 2 weeks or so with air. Being mounted to the rear of my old case it's only possible to blow backwards through the radiator setup. I get very anal and hold each fan still and use filtered air from my air compressor which is much better/powerful than canned air. While cleaning I could easily see a lot of dust being blown through, and right on out. This is what it looked like when it was time to dismount the rad, and than the push fans so I could make the transfer into the new case. This had been blown out less than 2 weeks prior. I almost had to change my drawers lol.

This is looking through one of the shrouds after removing just the fan







Needless to say the new Elysium is getting a complete set of filters just to be safe.

Only good note from all this is the evidence from the pictures which shows a more complete flow pattern due to running a shroud between the push fans and the radiator. Notice the small clean section at the very center of each fan location (without a shroud this should equal the diameter of the hub) which shows no air flow due to the center hub of the fan blade. The GT AP-15's have a very big hub, and shrouds do make more even/complete air flow.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makeo*
> 
> Finally got around to taking pix! got the rx120 kit, I must say its pretty awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can iz join the clubz?! and sorry for cellphone pix lol.
> 
> p.s. Don't look at the wires on the left side of the case >_> still need to do some more cable management. Just wanted to get the thing up n running!


If you want to join just go HERE and fill this out and go HERE to get your sig code.

Congrats on your loop it looks great


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> After ten months with an external mount rad with P/P it was finally time to upgrade the case and go with a internal setup. Bare in mind I really thought I was doing a very good job of cleaning once every 2 weeks or so with air. Being mounted to the rear of my old case it's only possible to blow backwards through the radiator setup. I get very anal and hold each fan still and use filtered air from my air compressor which is much better/powerful than canned air. While cleaning I could easily see a lot of dust being blown through, and right on out. This is what it looked like when it was time to dismount the rad, and than the push fans so I could make the transfer into the new case. This had been blown out less than 2 weeks prior. I almost had to change my drawers lol.
> This is looking through one of the shrouds after removing just the fan
> -snip-
> Needless to say the new Elysium is getting a complete set of filters just to be safe.
> Only good note from all this is the evidence from the pictures which shows a more complete flow pattern due to running a shroud between the push fans and the radiator. Notice the small clean section at the very center of each fan location (without a shroud this should equal the diameter of the hub) which shows no air flow due to the center hub of the fan blade. The GT AP-15's have a very big hub, and shrouds do make more even/complete air flow.


Thanks for the post! I'll go pick up some tight weave porch screen for filters. +REP


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> This was my Sunday night. 4 hours to do just half of the 24-pin. And my thumbs hurt like crazy...


LOL I know what you mean I did my psu and I think I will pay someone next time


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> This was my Sunday night. 4 hours to do just half of the 24-pin. And my thumbs hurt like crazy...


I have seen a fair number of these done, your looks really good. What sets them apart is the Heat-Shrinking







. Looks Great !


----------



## Los Hog

@ rdfloyd you can always use "The Magic Sleeving Scroll!" from Frozencpu lol LINK


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slice259*
> 
> I have seen a fair number of these done, your looks really good. What sets them apart is the Heat-Shrinking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Looks Great !


Have to thank Adam (SmasherBasher) for a good job on the pre-cut heatshrink. It's not Lutro0 perfect, but I figure it will do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> @ rdfloyd you can always use "The Magic Sleeving Scroll!" from Frozencpu lol LINK












Just woke my brother up because I was laughing so hard. I might ask to buy one just for the giggles!


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> 58 66 65 64


I wonder if I have the heatsink locked down hard enough. How far do you guys compress the springs on the waterblock? Is there a chance of bending the metal on the top if you go to far?

Also, how loud should the pump be? Mine was dead silent when I was leak testing. It's now starting to sound like an old aquarium pump. I know there's an issue with some of these pumps from the get-go. I don't have a decibel meter. Does anyone have a good comparison in their head between the sound level of the pump vs. an AP-15 and full speed?


----------



## Los Hog

You dont have to crank down on the springs and the pump will make some noise because you might have air in the system try tilting the case to help remove it


----------



## lsxtrkiller

From my experience while I personally do not have ap15s installed yet, however my friends computer I just built for him is packing ap15s and a rs360 kit and the ap15s are nearly silent and the pump is louder then then fans. After I got my 240 kit I did some reading and the pumps really do seem to be hit and miss with noise concerned... on that note a pump that is making more noise then another has generally been proven to be pumping just fine other then the noise of course, if its bothering you xspc will take it back if u make them a video, I however found the noise to be of little concern and I have my i7 2600k at 4.5gz and Im only maxing now in the high 40c range after 10 hrs of blending in prime 95 with my rad fans on low (they too damn loud on high). That being said I was getting kinda high temps when I first installed but I discovered there was still quite a lot of air left in the rad, after an hour or so of tilting I got most of the air out and my temps dropped significantly. Also about the post with high temps you may also wana lift the block and make sure the TIM applied correctly, a line in the middle while a good method isnt fool proof, and it may have not spread correctly.


----------



## lsxtrkiller

Also ambient temps are around 21c on average in my house this time of year.


----------



## bigpapa1289

Ok well I have my rs 240 kit installed, but I have 2 questions. 1) I seem to be having high temps would air bubbles in the system be causing this. 2) If not what could other things could be the problem. Thanks ahead of time first post just trying to get this fixed.

System info:
rs240 kit
1090t @3.8 1.4v (right now I am getting around 19C - 25C idle and 36C - 40C load which were the same temps I was running when I had my zalman 9900 max)
asrock 970 extreme3
2gb ripjaw ram 1333 1.5v
Gigabyte 1gb 6950 unlocked to 6970 shader cores and overclocked to 900/1300
Corsair 600t

Other than that one problem might be I am just using pull on two roswill fans because my case does not allow for me to go push/pull until I am able to get home and take a dremel to the top grill. So any suggestions are taken thanks again.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigpapa1289*
> 
> Ok well I have my rs 240 kit installed, but I have 2 questions. 1) I seem to be having high temps would air bubbles in the system be causing this. 2) If not what could other things could be the problem. Thanks ahead of time first post just trying to get this fixed.


Air bubbles could be a problem, but most likely you would hear them moving around the loop. Regardless, tilt your case around while the pump is running to make sure they are all gone.

As for temps, from what I understand, that Zalman isn't half bad. What you have to realize is that watercooling really shines when it deals with high temperature situations. Heat can only transfer so fast from the processor to the block, so a 17-15 degree delta isn't bad. If you want to, you could try again and remount the block.


----------



## lsxtrkiller

okay well those temps seems reasonable for 3.8 ghz... where the 240 kit shines is high overclocking you could easily hit 4ghz and see little if any temp increase im not familiar with amd chips but my 2600k is at 4.5 ghz and i only see mid to high 40s. Stock at 3.8ghz I get load temps of 33c but at 3.8 its stock vcore is fairly low, however cpus can easily run at 70c+, and 40c seems like a good temp to me. Remember water cooling is really only advantageous when there is TOO much heat to be air cooled or when air is giving high temps also water cooled temps also depend on your current room temp. Another advantage is that with the water setup your generally pushing the hot air out of the case where as with air cooled towers the hot air is getting pushed into the case.


----------



## bigpapa1289

OK well I will try tilting if anything I should only have air bubbles left in the radiator. Once I get everything ironed out I'll post up some pics.


----------



## lsxtrkiller

The air in the rad is stubborn i had to turn mine upside down and tilt it back to get the last of the air out.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> The air in the rad is stubborn i had to turn mine upside down and tilt it back to get the last of the air out.


^

Eventually the air in mine came out, but I could hear "gurgling" for a week after I put my loop together.


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> You dont have to crank down on the springs and the pump will make some noise because you might have air in the system try tilting the case to help remove it


Thanks, I actually tilted it around for a few minutes while leak testing. I stopped when I stopped hearing and seeing the air bubbles hit the reservoir. There's lots of little bubbles stuck to the sides of the reservoir, kinda looks like a carbonated soda. There's also a couple of slightly larger bubbles hanging out just below the acrylic rounded guard that sits right above the intake. I may have to turn the thing upside down to get those out. No extreme tilting seems to work!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> From my experience while I personally do not have ap15s installed yet, however my friends computer I just built for him is packing ap15s and a rs360 kit and the ap15s are nearly silent and the pump is louder then then fans. After I got my 240 kit I did some reading and the pumps really do seem to be hit and miss with noise concerned... on that note a pump that is making more noise then another has generally been proven to be pumping just fine other then the noise of course, if its bothering you xspc will take it back if u make them a video, I however found the noise to be of little concern and I have my i7 2600k at 4.5gz and Im only maxing now in the high 40c range after 10 hrs of blending in prime 95 with my rad fans on low (they too damn loud on high). That being said I was getting kinda high temps when I first installed but I discovered there was still quite a lot of air left in the rad, after an hour or so of tilting I got most of the air out and my temps dropped significantly. Also about the post with high temps you may also wana lift the block and make sure the TIM applied correctly, a line in the middle while a good method isnt fool proof, and it may have not spread correctly.


Thanks, I've heard other people say that AP-15s are silent as well, but that has never been the case for me. I don't know if I'm sensitive to their tone or my case just hits resonant frequency with them, but I think they're loud at full speed when mounted to anything, even with the silicone mounts. When I've run them outside the case, they seem quiet enough. I guess I probably just need to do a lot of tilting as my temps are 20c higher than yours at 1.360 vcore @4.8 on the 2700K. After that, I may pull the block and reseat if no improvement. I'd like to run the AP-15s a low as possible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> Also ambient temps are around 21c on average in my house this time of year.


That's about my ambients as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> ^
> Eventually the air in mine came out, but I could hear "gurgling" for a week after I put my loop together.


Maybe I'm hearing gurgling.

Thanks everyone, + rep to all.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breenemeister*
> 
> Thanks, I've heard other people say that AP-15s are silent as well, but that has never been the case for me. I don't know if I'm sensitive to their tone or my case just hits resonant frequency with them, but I think they're loud at full speed when mounted to anything, even with the silicone mounts.


Yeap, agree .. well either that or my 3 fans are broken. When attached to the RX360 even at slow speed they make this horrible whirring sound (by horrible I mean I can hear it .. it's almost like the sound when a HDD starts up but continuous) and when I raise the speed up they start making this whistling sound.

By themselves they appear nicer, no whirling or whistling sound .. it's just in the case attached to the rad.

I'm having trouble finding the static pressure stats for them but when I compare my Nexus Real Silent PWM for noise it's totally different, no whirring or whistling sounds. I just don't want to loose performance if they're THAT much better (the 3 AP-15s are by far the loudest things in my system).


----------



## dougshell

honestly unless you are doing hard core folding, or rendering sound shouldnt matter because the only other thing that should stress your CPU hard enough would be gaming and at that point the sound really doesnt make a difference.

Maybe you need a fan controller


----------



## slice259

I posted here a few days ago looking at water cooling a single 7970 and i5 750... Got thinking and how would a rx360 rad with a rx240 rad cool 2 EK blocks on 7970's and a xspc cpu block on my i5 750 @ 4.4 ghz. I am thinking I would have enough rad Surface to dissipate the heat, just is the XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump up to the challenge ?









Fitting all of this in or around a Antec 1200 is not ideal lol. I may just get a rx360 kit and water cool the cpu and wait till I can get a better water cooling case ( 800D .. ect )









Thanks guy's !


----------



## pirates712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Sounds like cavitation. It'll go away after a while (mine did). Keep rotation your case around to speed up the process. I'd say give it a week and post back if it doesn't go away. XSPC was very quick to reply to me when I was having pump trouble. Most people on here got new pumps within a week (without having to return the old pumps) once theirs went bad.


So is the cavitation caused by air in the water that is coming out of solution when it hits the pump? I think my water still is pretty aerated, it would make sense to since every couple days a small bubble builds up under the plexi pump shield. Temps are great so far, <55c on an FX-8150 @4.8GHz


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pirates712*
> 
> So is the cavitation caused by air in the water that is coming out of solution when it hits the pump? I think my water still is pretty aerated, it would make sense to since every couple days a small bubble builds up under the plexi pump shield. Temps are great so far, <55c on an FX-8150 @4.8GHz


I saw an excellent GIF image on here explaining cavitation. The best I could find was this. I'm pretty sure that discharge cavitation is the cause for the "rattle" that you hear. I don't study fluid dynamics until next Fall, so that's the limit of my knowledge.


----------



## pirates712

I'm just wondering why it's cavitating. Shouldn't it not cavitate?

btw, what major do you study fluids for? I'm studying computer engineering.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pirates712*
> 
> I'm just wondering why it's cavitating. Shouldn't it not cavitate?
> btw, what major do you study fluids for? I'm studying computer engineering.


It shouldn't, but air gets trapped in the pump causing the cavitation. If you run the pump for long enough, most of the larger air bubbles will be pushed out. The only real way to get rid of them is to start and stop the pump until all of the air is out.

Studying Applied Physics with an engineering track. I would love to study computer engineering, but our computer science department is junk and totally theoretical.


----------



## ikem

would a rx360 and kit pump be good for a 1090t and 2 6870s?


----------



## Los Hog

Yes unless your blocks are not to restrive it will run it
Here is Martins review of the pump LINK


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slice259*
> 
> I posted here a few days ago looking at water cooling a single 7970 and i5 750... Got thinking and how would a rx360 rad with a rx240 rad cool 2 EK blocks on 7970's and a xspc cpu block on my i5 750 @ 4.4 ghz. I am thinking I would have enough rad Surface to dissipate the heat, just is the XSPC X2O 750 Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir Pump up to the challenge ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting all of this in or around a Antec 1200 is not ideal lol. I may just get a rx360 kit and water cool the cpu and wait till I can get a better water cooling case ( 800D .. ect )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guy's !


I've got it cooling an overclocked 1090T to 4.2 and a GTX 560 Ti from 822 to 950. I've had no problems with it keeping my temps down. My CPU maxes out at about 30 degrees and my GPU at about 46. Since I've tested those 7970s I'd say that the X2O 750 should be able to handle a second 7970 without a problem. Just make sure that your GPU block has a low restrictive design. Aside from that you should be fine. I'd imagine that even with some overclocking your temps should stay under 50 Celsius. I forgot to mention that it's also cooling an EK water block for my UD7.


----------



## KuuFA

Hello everyone!

I just got the RX240 installed and running but the pump sounds like a
fish tank's air pump (kinda the loudest thing in my computer)...
(edit: read some earlier posts seems this is normal in the beginning?)
should i be worried? is it because of the little bubbles trapped in there?

I shake it every now and then plus I flipped it to get the air out of the radiator.

Besides the noise it decreased my temps about +/- 20c coming from an H50 and a hyper 212+!

Ill post pics and a video of the noise later. : /


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I just got the RX240 installed and running but the pump sounds like a
> fish tank's air pump (kinda the loudest thing in my computer)...
> (edit: read some earlier posts seems this is normal in the beginning?)
> should i be worried? is it because of the little bubbles trapped in there?
> I shake it every now and then plus I flipped it to get the air out of the radiator.
> Besides the noise it decreased my temps about +/- 20c coming from an H50 and a hyper 212+!
> Ill post pics and a video of the noise later. : /


I'm right there with you on the sound, except mine was dead silent when I first fired it up. Then, I did a lot of tilting while leak testing and got a lot of air out, but I can still see lots of carbonation like bubbles and there's a bubble under the acrylic arc that covers the pump intake. The pump has since gotten louder. I need to do some more work on it this weekend. I messed with it the other night and tipped the case all the way over on the right side as it was running. *BAD IDEA*, do not do that as it made the left side where the pump intake resides into the highest point causing it to suck more air into the line. I'm going to turn it upside down while off and then turn it on to see what happens. Hopefully, it will also lower temps as I'm sitting about 5-10 degrees below what my Silver Arrow was capable of. i may need to reseat the water block too.

I also can't seem to get the reservoir as full as I'd like because the fill port seems to sit down a little low into the reservoir. I'll have to work on it. Good luck, I'm sure we can both get our systems in line.


----------



## dougshell

I think all new people make that mistake and one point but what i did (after making the same mistake LOL) was i took the reservoir out of the case and while i turned th case over i kept the res sitting upright.

Also if you use a small syringe (like for giving a child oral medication) you can fill the res to teh point where no air is allowed into your res. You will spill a little when you screw the cap in, but i can literally turn my case any which way and never introduce air into my loop


----------



## wTheOnew

Quick question. I have a RX360 loop right now and want to add a GPU block soon. Running just plain water with a kill coil. Any problem running a copper or nickel EK block with the Rasa?


----------



## Los Hog

No problem copper or nickel are ok


----------



## breenemeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougshell*
> 
> I think all new people make that mistake and one point but what i did (after making the same mistake LOL) was i took the reservoir out of the case and while i turned th case over i kept the res sitting upright.
> Also if you use a small syringe (like for giving a child oral medication) you can fill the res to teh point where no air is allowed into your res. You will spill a little when you screw the cap in, but i can literally turn my case any which way and never introduce air into my loop


Thanks, I guess I should have seen it coming. Unfortunately, I can't do what you did and pull the res out of the case to rotate it. I don't have that much slack. I've got enough to pull it out far enough to fill it with a little to spare. I've thought about the syringe for filling, just have to find something around the house. +rep


----------



## dougshell

just go buy some childrens advil it should come with the syringe


----------



## lsxtrkiller

Better to go to a pet store they have syringes in many sizes.


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> Better to go to a pet store they have syringes in many sizes.


True, but my nearest pest store is about 12 mile while my nearest 7-eleven is about 2 blocks.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I just got the RX240 installed and running but the pump sounds like a
> fish tank's air pump (kinda the loudest thing in my computer)...
> (edit: read some earlier posts seems this is normal in the beginning?)
> should i be worried? *is it because of the little bubbles trapped in there*?
> 
> I shake it every now and then plus I flipped it to get the air out of the radiator.
> 
> Besides the noise it decreased my temps about +/- 20c coming from an H50 and a hyper 212+!
> 
> Ill post pics and a video of the noise later. : /


I have seen other people who have put ONE DROP of dish liquid in the res and it would get the tiny air bubbles out the system fast LINK


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I have seen other people who have put ONE DROP of dish liquid in the res and it would get the tiny air bubbles out the system fast LINK


That's legit. I might try that.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quick question; does it matter a whole lot whether the fans on my RS240 are pushing or pulling? I've got them on top of my case in a pull config for aesthetic reasons.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quick question; does it matter a whole lot whether the fans on my RS240 are pushing or pulling? I've got them on top of my case in a pull config for aesthetic reasons.


You _might_ see a few degrees difference, but I doubt it will be too big of a deal.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I have seen other people who have put ONE DROP of dish liquid in the res and it would get the tiny air bubbles out the system fast LINK


I just read about putting soap in the res a few min after you posted that thanks!


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quick question; does it matter a whole lot whether the fans on my RS240 are pushing or pulling? I've got them on top of my case in a pull config for aesthetic reasons.


A few differences would be, push fans cool better than pull fans usually 2, maybe 3c. If mounted in the top of the case it would run quieter with the fans in push configuration vrs pull as the fan noise is dampened by the radiator along with the wind noise is also coming from the far side of the rad.

Does it make a difference? Yes it does. But if you really like the looks of what you have just run it and see how it does. You now know there's a good chance to improve it later if it's needed at some point.


----------



## Los Hog

Very true I agree with this ^


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Quick question; does it matter a whole lot whether the fans on my RS240 are pushing or pulling? I've got them on top of my case in a pull config for aesthetic reasons.
> 
> 
> 
> A few differences would be, push fans cool better than pull fans usually 2, maybe 3c. If mounted in the top of the case it would run quieter with the fans in push configuration vrs pull as the fan noise is dampened by the radiator along with the wind noise is also coming from the far side of the rad.
> 
> Does it make a difference? Yes it does. But if you really like the looks of what you have just run it and see how it does. You now know there's a good chance to improve it later if it's needed at some point.
Click to expand...

When you configure the fans to push the air from inside the case and vent it out of the case your temps will also depend on how the other case fans are set up. If you have enough intake fans on your case so that it keeps the air in the case from heating up to much then the difference that you will see in temps vs. pulling the air in from outside the case a pushing it inside the case will be very small.

Hope this helps


----------



## mak5

My xspc build dual loops.

Dual loop 2500k overclocked to 5ghz
Asus maximus gene Iv z68
16 GB vengance ram
580 GTX FTW hydro
600t Case
internal dual 120 & 240's
xspc 2.5 pump/bay combo (GFX)
xspc dual bay pump combo (CPU)


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mak5*
> 
> My xspc build dual loops.
> Dual loop 2500k overclocked to 5ghz
> Asus maximus gene Iv z68
> 16 GB vengance ram
> 580 GTX FTW hydro
> 600t Case
> internal dual 120 & 240's
> xspc 2.5 pump/bay combo (GFX)
> xspc dual bay pump combo (CPU)


Very nice! However, it does look like your video card is warping a little...


----------



## Hogwasher

Just finished installing my RASA. Do I just drop the kill coil into the Reservoir


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Just finished installing my RASA. Do I just drop the kill coil into the Reservoir


Yes that is exactly what you do


----------



## Hogwasher

thx +rep


----------



## Hogwasher

Add me!









Pics:











temporarily fixed the twist.

will be buying angled barbs later for more permanent fix


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Just finished installing my RASA. Do I just drop the kill coil into the Reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that is exactly what you do
Click to expand...

Or you can put it in the tubing.


----------



## mak5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Very nice! However, it does look like your video card is warping a little...


Its not warping...its heavy as Eff its a 580 FTW hydro copper...is there anyway to fix that?


----------



## [ISM]-BlueDragon

on the top of the bay res where you fill it... is that a g 1/4" thread also? I am going to be ordering one of the rx360 kits and want to know if I can put a fitting in that top port to use a fill port... anyone tried this or hav any idea?


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ISM]-BlueDragon*
> 
> on the top of the bay res where you fill it... is that a g 1/4" thread also? I am going to be ordering one of the rx360 kits and want to know if I can put a fitting in that top port to use a fill port... anyone tried this or hav any idea?


The top on the bay res is not g1/4 but there is something you can get from XSPC to install a barb there LINK Hope this helps you


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mak5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Very nice! However, it does look like your video card is warping a little...
> 
> 
> 
> Its not warping...its heavy as Eff its a 580 FTW hydro copper...is there anyway to fix that?
Click to expand...

Yes go to the lumber yard and get a wooden dowel rod the size you want. Cut it to fit then spraypaint it black or what ever color you think would look good in your case and use it as a prop rod for your card


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> *Add me! ;*
> 
> temporarily fixed the twist.
> 
> will be buying angled barbs later for more permanent fix


You need to add yourself in this club







LINK fill this out and then go HERE to get your sig code. You may have to scroll down a bit









Very nice build sir !!


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Yes go to the lumber yard and get a wooden dowel rod the size you want. Cut it to fit then spraypaint it black or what ever color you think would look good in your case and use it as a prop rod for your card


Another way is to get some thin fishing line and a small hook. Tie the fishing line to the edge of your card, then use the hook to hang onto the top of your case (saves you from having to cut the wire every time you need to move your graphics card.


----------



## Los Hog

Very good fix







thanks Richard


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Richard


Very nice. How'd you guess?


----------



## Los Hog

Check you PM


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Check you PM


Attention to detail.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> You need to add yourself in this club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LINK fill this out and then go HERE to get your sig code. You may have to scroll down a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice build sir !!


Yeah I figured that out shortly after that post








Thanks for the heads up


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> thx +rep


You are most welcome


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mak5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Very nice! However, it does look like your video card is warping a little...
> 
> 
> 
> Its not warping...its heavy as Eff its a 580 FTW hydro copper...is there anyway to fix that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes go to the lumber yard and get a wooden dowel rod the size you want. Cut it to fit then spraypaint it black or what ever color you think would look good in your case and use it as a prop rod for your card
Click to expand...

This is a very simple yet effective way to solve the problem, I know that some gaming cases have special hardware to support the big Graphics cards but for those without that this is a great idea


----------



## Los Hog

Bumped for all the good info this thread has in it


----------



## gotskil

I got a bunch of noob questions for you guys if you don't mind. I'm trying to decide between something like the H80 or one of these Rasa kits. What's the difference between the rasa kids like the 240 etc? Is it that the more expensive one can be used for GPU's later on in another loops or something?

I would be adding this to my sig rig which is a 400r case. I am not a huge fan of having the rad on the outside of the case so I was wondering if anyone knows if the larger rad's will fit inside the 400r? H100's are suppose to fit but I think it is very tight.

I still need to get an SSD and I am also getting another 560 ti but before any of that I'm getting some kind of water cooling solution and when an H80 costs around $100 it's hard to not justify spending the extra 30 for something like that RS240.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Definitely go with the Rasa kit. The corsair cooler are nice, but they're a dead end. By going with a custom loop, you'll be able to add components later, change tubing, etc. And as you said, it's only $30 more









Not to mention custom loops are way more fun to install (as long as you're careful).


----------



## gotskil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Definitely go with the Rasa kit. The corsair cooler are nice, but they're a dead end. By going with a custom loop, you'll be able to add components later, change tubing, etc. And as you said, it's only $30 more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to mention custom loops are way more fun to install (as long as you're careful).


Even with the 240 you can add in cooling for GPU's later? Would the only limitation on cooling be the size of the radiator?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotskil*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Definitely go with the Rasa kit. The corsair cooler are nice, but they're a dead end. By going with a custom loop, you'll be able to add components later, change tubing, etc. And as you said, it's only $30 more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to mention custom loops are way more fun to install (as long as you're careful).
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the 240 you can add in cooling for GPU's later? Would the only limitation on cooling be the size of the radiator?
Click to expand...

Yes you can add in GPU blocks later on no matter what Rasa kit you get, however since you siad that you will be getting another 560ti I will guess you plan on putting them in SLI? If this is true then you'll need more Rad than a single 240 to cool a CPU and two 560ti's.


----------



## gotskil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yes you can add in GPU blocks later on no matter what Rasa kit you get, however since you siad that you will be getting another 560ti I will guess you plan on putting them in SLI? If this is true then you'll need more Rad than a single 240 to cool a CPU and two 560ti's.


That's exactly what I needed to know. Well for now I'll just get the 240 and then when I do get another 560 ti I'll worry about adding another raid at some point when I can afford the blocks and all that to cool the GPU's.


----------



## Los Hog

Dont forget to get yourself a killcoil for your loop LINK to keep the algae out of your loop


----------



## jackofhearts495

You'd be able to cool a CPU and 560 Ti (with modest overclocks) with an RS or RX240. Plus the whole point of a custom setup is that you can add more radiators, blocks, etc. as needed. You're not limited to one radiator.

The RS kits are a great place to start, though.


----------



## [ISM]-BlueDragon

How does this look to cool my 2600k?



Just pulled the trigger on this... didn't get everything above.... just the kit and the tubing.... decided the rest wasn't worth it







can't wait to put it to the test







will update with pics and temps before and after...


----------



## dougshell

those tubing clamps i have been told are garbage. Either go compression/ 1/2barb with 7/16id /or worm driven clamps


----------



## KuuFA

Well after a week the pump is almost quiet but my tubes have plasticized







here are some pics!!


(i know i could use a bit more cable management but i am going to change my fan controller set up so there are wires everywhere lol)



I think I put the drain tube on the wrong side is there a specific place to put a drain tube?


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Well after a week the pump is almost quiet but my tubes have plasticized
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here are some pics!!
> 
> I think I put the drain tube on the wrong side is there a specific place to put a drain tube?


The lowest part of the loop


----------



## gotskil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> You'd be able to cool a CPU and 560 Ti (with modest overclocks) with an RS or RX240. Plus the whole point of a custom setup is that you can add more radiators, blocks, etc. as needed. You're not limited to one radiator.
> The RS kits are a great place to start, though.


That's pretty much what I'm looking for at this point. Just something to get started with water cooling on my CPU but also with the option to do more down the road with GPU's etc.

Thanks for the info guys.

I'm going to put together an order and take a screen shot of it so you guys can approve it for me!


----------



## kamikaze_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Well after a week the pump is almost quiet but my tubes have plasticized
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here are some pics!!
> *snip*
> (i know i could use a bit more cable management but i am going to change my fan controller set up so there are wires everywhere lol)
> *snip*
> I think I put the drain tube on the wrong side is there a specific place to put a drain tube?


Quite merky. That's why I would NOT rather clear tubing after awhile of use with regular water.


----------



## Bradey

hi,
i have a rs240 kit

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199570/my-new-matx-build#post_16184334


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Dont forget to get yourself a killcoil for your loop LINK to keep the algae out of your loop


if you get your kit from Frozencpu.com they give you a kill coil with the kit


----------



## yuisporing

Posted on the OCN club but I should join this club too as I have the Rasa kit :3.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Awesome very clean look


----------



## pirates712

So I think I'm going to have to get a replacement pump. If I do, I'd like to replace the tubing with white tubing and the xspc thermal paste with something better. What are the best brands for either? Thanks!


----------



## WeirdHarold

I'd go with Primochill for the tubing, and there are so may opinions about TIM's that I'll almost certainly start a war here but I'm still using Arctic Silver 5 because it's easy to apply and still gives great results, but I've used the Shin Etsu paste once and it worked great to.


----------



## rdfloyd

If we can get enough people together, there's a group buy for some Shin Etsu 3g tubes @ $10 apiece. That would only be a little more expensive than AS5 (maybe $1-2) but from the reviews, it performs much better. Plus, there's no cure time, even though I've never seen a difference between cured and non-cured AS5.

Link:http://www.overclock.net/t/1162041/group-buy-3g-tubes-shin-etsu-g751/0_50


----------



## BramSLI1

Pirates712, definitely go with the Shin Etsu TIM. For the price you really can't beat the performance. Primochill is also a great brand of hose because it's durable and it can make really sharp turns without kinking. I highly recommend that you get 7/16 tubing so that it fits nice and snug over your barbs. Doing this also makes clamps less necessary. I don't want to get into any arguments here but I use this set up without any clamps and I've transported my rig several times without incident. Just make sure that the hoses are on as far down on the barbs as possible. You can use a little spit or dish soap to lubricate the barbs. This will make getting the smaller hoses onto your barbs easier. Good luck on your upgrade and welcome to the club!


----------



## breenemeister

Careful on the shining shin-etsu endorsement everyone who hasn't used it before. I've used both of the most highly touted shin etsus, I think one was 751 and the other 7338 or something like that. They are an extreme pain to work with. It's very hard to apply it properly because it is so thick. It took me several attempts and my best results were on par with AS-5. You have to heat it up with a hair dryer or put the tube over a lightbulb on a lamp to warm it up first, then it cools down as soon as you squeeze it out of the tube. You have to re-heat and then be johnny on the spot mounting the heatsink. To be honest, what's worked best for me so far is the Thermalright chillfactor III that came with my Silver Arrow. I got the best results with it on the Silver Arrow. I'm currently trying out MX-4 on my Rasa kit. I'm hoping I had a bad mount as I'm not beating my Silver Arrow by a high enough margin at the moment.


----------



## Boyboyd

My CPU is loading at 42 now, but i think the fact that it's -2 outside and the window is wide open probably helps.


----------



## selluminis

Okay, so to get my pic on the list when I join, I just copy the post URL into the link spot when I post my pics, right?


----------



## wTheOnew

So I have an Rasa RX360 kit and am adding an EK block for the 7970 that's on the way. I have $100ish to spend at Frozen. What do I get? A EX120 to go on the back of the 800D to help? Any and all ideas!


----------



## jackofhearts495

If you're gonna get an EX rad, you'll want high speed fans to accompany it. Fine if you don't mind the noise, but if you run slow fans on an EX you won't get the cooling you want.

I believe you'd be able to fit either an RS or RX120 (kind of like the medium- and thick- versions of the EX) in the back of an 800D, possibly in push-pull. You can check yourself by measuring clearance in your case (check for both heatsink height as well as clearance for your CPU block/tubing).

I'm pretty sure you can also fix a 240mm radiator in the bottom of an 800D without modding. There are tons of 800D builds around here if you want inspiration.


----------



## wTheOnew

Hm, thought the EX was supposed to basically be a skinny RX. Made for slower fans.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wTheOnew*
> 
> Hm, thought the EX was supposed to basically be a skinny RX. Made for slower fans.


Exactly, the EX series is made with a new tech from XSPC and is designed to give you performance in line with the RX series but with the low profile dimensions of the RS series. Mostly it's good to know that it does have a low fin count just like the RX series so that you can use low rpm fans with them.


----------



## jackofhearts495

The EX radiator's aren't meant for low RPM fans. They have a very high fin count (due to split fins), so they perform far better with high-RPM fans.

If you want to use slower fans, get an RS or RX.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> The EX radiator's aren't meant for low RPM fans. They have a very high fin count (due to split fins), so they perform far better with high-RPM fans.
> 
> If you want to use slower fans, get an RS or RX.


This is taken right from FrozenCPU's web page for an EX series radiator:

"Introducing a new generation of performance PC radiators. The EX series combines the low profile design of our RS series radiators with the high performance of our award winning RX series. This feat has been possible due to several manufacturing advances including, split fins, improved soldering techniques, and welded seam tubes. *The EX series has been designed and optimized for low speed fans*, so it can offer high performance cooling at very low noise levels. "

Here is the page I took it from in case you don't believe me:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14328/ex-rad-316/XSPC_EX360_Triple_120mm_Low_Profile_Split_Fin_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s161

It says very plainly that it is optimized for LOW speed fans


----------



## mm67

Sounds about as believable as this what Hardware Labs says about their 30 FPI GT Stealth radiators : Achieves Black Ice® Xtreme level performance in stealth mode (low-noise/low-airflow conditions).


----------



## WeirdHarold

I know a few people that are using the EX rads already and they are getting good results either as good as the RX rads they replaced or in one situation better temps then the RX rads he replaced, and in all instances they are using Gentle Typhoon AP-15's on fan controllers and keep the fans around 700 to 1000 rpm. So the EX rads peak my interest I know that, and I'll probably replace my RS rad with an EX cause I like the low profile rads.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> This is taken right from FrozenCPU's web page for an EX series radiator:
> "Introducing a new generation of performance PC radiators. The EX series combines the low profile design of our RS series radiators with the high performance of our award winning RX series. This feat has been possible due to several manufacturing advances including, split fins, improved soldering techniques, and welded seam tubes. *The EX series has been designed and optimized for low speed fans*, so it can offer high performance cooling at very low noise levels. "
> Here is the page I took it from in case you don't believe me:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14328/ex-rad-316/XSPC_EX360_Triple_120mm_Low_Profile_Split_Fin_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s161
> It says very plainly that it is optimized for LOW speed fans


I've been hearing a bunch of different ideas from everyone









The descriptions of the EX, RS, and RX all claim they're "optimized for low-speed fans". The RS and RX are both sub-8 fpi, but I figured that technically the EX would have a much higher fpi because of the split-fin design.

Also, the EX radiators seem to do much better with high-RPM fans (source).

That's just what I gathered from around the interwebs.


----------



## wTheOnew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I've been hearing a bunch of different ideas from everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The descriptions of the EX, RS, and RX all claim they're "optimized for low-speed fans". The RS and RX are both sub-8 fpi, but I figured that technically the EX would have a much higher fpi because of the split-fin design.
> Also, the EX radiators seem to do much better with high-RPM fans (source).
> That's just what I gathered from around the interwebs.


1200RPM isn't what I would consider high-speed.









Yeah, it takes more than the RX series, but it's not like it demands a 300RPM fan or anything. I did end up picking a EX120 up to go with the RX360 and it seems it will work out just fine from those tests.


----------



## WeirdHarold

I think we are also forgetting that a good radiator fan will still have a decent static pressure even at lower rpms and still move a decent amount of air as well. For example the Gentle Typhoons, if you get the AP-15's they maybe 1800 rpm fans but they still have good pressure and air movement at say 700 rpms. So your fan choice is just as important as your radiator in many respects!


----------



## [ISM]-BlueDragon

Got my kit yesterday!!







Love it so far. I will update pics with before and after pics and temps... *cue music- I'M SO EXCITED...* Here is a link with pics of before and after http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/16600_50#post_16227334

EDIT: Here are some temps with the previous cooling setup vs the RX360 kit

120 rad, D-Tek Fusion V-1 CPU Block, Mircro-res, MCP655 Pump(1200 LPH)
(Load)-4.6Ghz 1.336v
(Idle)-1.6Ghz 1.01v

Prime95 Small FFT
3 Hours
Same test/time for both sets.

Ambient Temp - 21*C
Idle - 27*24*29*28*
100% Load - 69*73*77*72*
0 Error 0 Warnings

Gaming FEAR2
52*53*58*52*
MW2
51*53*57*51*

With Rasa 750 RX360

Ambient Temp - 21*C
Idle - 24*22*27*26
100% Load - 54*59*63*59*

Gamine FEAR2
47*49*52*47*
MW2
46*47*50*44*

Differences
Idle = -3*-2*-2*-2*
100% Load = -15*-14*-14*-13*


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ISM]-BlueDragon*
> 
> Got my kit yesterday!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it so far. I will update pics with before and after pics and temps... *cue music- I'M SO EXCITED...*
> EDIT: Here are some temps with the previous cooling setup vs the RX360 kit
> 120 rad, D-Tek Fusion V-1 CPU Block, Mircro-res, MCP655 Pump(1200 LPH)
> (Load)-4.6Ghz 1.336v
> (Idle)-1.6Ghz 1.01v
> Prime95 Small FFT
> 3 Hours
> Same test/time for both sets.
> Ambient Temp - 21*C
> Idle - 27*24*29*28*
> 100% Load - 69*73*77*72*
> 0 Error 0 Warnings
> Gaming FEAR2
> 52*53*58*52*
> MW2
> 51*53*57*51*
> With Rasa 750 RX360
> Ambient Temp - 21*C
> Idle - 24*22*27*26
> 100% Load - 54*59*63*59*
> Gamine FEAR2
> 47*49*52*47*
> MW2
> 46*47*50*44*
> Differences
> Idle = -3*-2*-2*-2*
> 100% Load = -15*-14*-14*-13*


It seems like this is when this kit really shines is at load. I was impressed... Of course, it does not take much for that....


----------



## dubsides

Just wanted to say I bit the bullet on WC because of this thread...

Did a RS 360 because I won't be swinging any multi GPUs any time in the visible future

My system's a little dated, waiting on Ivy Bridge before upgrading much, luckily this fit my old processor, and boy is it cooler than old school air. I don't have a lot of money to throw at cases, so I do a lot of home made stuff. Installation was pretty easy, just had to cut out space for the radiator, mounted the pump/res backwards, cause honestly the acrylic goes with my case ha... pretty quiet pump, fan controller on the way...

And please don't make fun of my christmas light leds running around the perimeter, still trying to think of something better to do with them, maybe under the motherboard?

Sorry for the crappy phone pic, I didn't put my media card reader back in because I barely use my real camera anymore.


----------



## lsxtrkiller

considering everywhere is always sold out of the ap15s what are some other great 120x25mm fans... noise isnt an issue to an extent just want performance, and to get rid of the giant 38mm fans i have now so i can move my rad...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsxtrkiller*
> 
> considering everywhere is always sold out of the ap15s what are some other great 120x25mm fans... noise isnt an issue to an extent just want performance, and to get rid of the giant 38mm fans i have now so i can move my rad...


Actually pretty much everyone has the AP-15's right now, Scythe had some production issues for a while and that's why everyone was out of them but they are back in full production. Here are some links to sites that have stock on hand right now:

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6624_Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-Fan-1850-rpm---120x120x25mm--.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_49&products_id=24749

Frozencpu had some yesterday but they've sold out, but I imagine they will get them back in soon, not to mention that I'm sure there are other sites that have them in stock too.


----------



## calvin lin

Just bought a rs360 kit.

Some of the mounting holes on the rad appear to be unthreaded. On those unthreaded holes, I can't get the screws in no matter what I do. On those good threaded ones, the screws go in easily.

I am not talking about putting a screw through the rad, but putting a screw through the mounting hole...

Is this common? What should I do?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Thanks for the links, Harold. I've been looking for a site other than FCPU or PPCs, and aquatuning looks great.


----------



## Ilaylowfoshow

Well, I guess no better time than now to Introduce myself







....Longtime reader and never posted on these Forums before, been hesitant for some reason but now I am posting to thank everyone for their input on this Watercooling system...I received my 750 RS360 kit the other day...Installed and Leak tested for 12 hours and everything is well with it...And coming from a 212+, I have noticed a 25 degree change in temperature which is simply astonishing to me....Ran prime for a few hours yesterday and my temps never topped 60 degrees....I have it in push/pull config with 6 scythe slipstreams (I picked these cuz they move lots of air and I am not concerned with noise) and I don't think I'll ever go back to strictly air! So once again, thanks everyone and I'll be posting more all around these forums, this is a GREAT site and a Wealth of information!


----------



## Los Hog

Welcome to the underwater cooling side of things


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ilaylowfoshow*
> 
> Well, I guess no better time than now to Introduce myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....Longtime reader and never posted on these Forums before, been hesitant for some reason but now I am posting to thank everyone for their input on this Watercooling system...I received my 750 RS360 kit the other day...Installed and Leak tested for 12 hours and everything is well with it...And coming from a 212+, I have noticed a 25 degree change in temperature which is simply astonishing to me....Ran prime for a few hours yesterday and my temps never topped 60 degrees....I have it in push/pull config with 6 scythe slipstreams (I picked these cuz they move lots of air and I am not concerned with noise) and I don't think I'll ever go back to strictly air! So once again, thanks everyone and I'll be posting more all around these forums, this is a GREAT site and a Wealth of information!


Pics!









Also, I've heard that Slipstreams are terrible radiator fans. They have very low static pressure. You may want to look into other fans (I'm sure anyone around here would recommend a Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 or a cheaper Yate Loon), but if you're happy with the temps, don't sweat it.


----------



## Ilaylowfoshow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I've heard that Slipstreams are terrible radiator fans. They have very low static pressure. You may want to look into other fans (I'm sure anyone around here would recommend a Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 or a cheaper Yate Loon), but if you're happy with the temps, don't sweat it.


Here are a couple pics I took.....The Slipstreams work well for now...I will eventually get some better fans....I already had them so why not use them, and they are decent for now LOL



I swapped out that fan controller in the picture for a sunbeam from new egg, because the one pictured is crap and going back to Microcenter today....I loosely zip tied my two rad tubes so the one won't move enough to hit the back case fan....Overall, i don't think it was a bad job for a first timer


----------



## Los Hog

Looks like a fine job thanks for the pictures


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Thanks for the links, Harold. I've been looking for a site other than FCPU or PPCs, and aquatuning looks great.


I ordered 8 AP-15's from them in December, they shipped from Germany and only took 3 days to get to my door I would highly recommend Auqatuning.us







I was very impressed


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ilaylowfoshow*
> 
> Well, I guess no better time than now to Introduce myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....Longtime reader and never posted on these Forums before, been hesitant for some reason but now I am posting to thank everyone for their input on this Watercooling system...I received my 750 RS360 kit the other day...Installed and Leak tested for 12 hours and everything is well with it...And coming from a 212+, I have noticed a 25 degree change in temperature which is simply astonishing to me....Ran prime for a few hours yesterday and my temps never topped 60 degrees....I have it in push/pull config with 6 scythe slipstreams (I picked these cuz they move lots of air and I am not concerned with noise) and I don't think I'll ever go back to strictly air! So once again, thanks everyone and I'll be posting more all around these forums, this is a GREAT site and a Wealth of information!


Welcome to the party that is water cooling







I will caution you it is very very addictive


----------



## thomasrs

Dear Forum,

I was thinking about getting an XSPC watercooling kit and wanted to which one I should get. I want to cool my processor and GPU, currently I have amazing temps I have no idea why but my cpu idles around 33 degrees and maxes out at 47. I live in Brazil where it is warm so thats kind of weird. My main reason for watercooling is that I can´t stand my video card fan it sounds like its going to take off combined with my other coolers its like im sitting next to an air conditioning unit. Essentially, I want to reduce noise.

Anyways,

Im deciding on wether I should go for the RX240 or go for the RS360. Which one would give me better temps and performance?Im getting the XSPC rasa waterblock for GPU.

Which coolant should I use? Would Feser One UV Green gunk up all my blocks?

Thanks in Advance!


----------



## Los Hog

If it will fit in your case use a RX360 with a fan controller and maybe some low speed, high static pressure fan run at about 600 to 700 rpm's. Then you should have very little noise


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Welcome to the party that is water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will caution you it is very very addictive


No kidding... it hasn't been a freaking month since I installed my little Rasa RS240 loop and I'm already dropping another $200 to pull my GPU underwater.


----------



## pbi76

Hi guys:

I'm thinking of adding a rad to my system (currently using a RX240) but due to space restrictions, I have to choose between an RX radiator with fans in either push or pull configuration or an EX radiator with fans in push-pull configuration. What would be the better choice assuming my priority is low noise?

Thanks.


----------



## Los Hog

RX rads for low noise


----------



## pbi76

Thanks!

I'll study my setup some more. Who knows.. I may be able to squeeze in a push-pull configuration for the RX radiator.


----------



## Ilaylowfoshow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> No kidding... it hasn't been a freaking month since I installed my little Rasa RS240 loop and I'm already dropping another $200 to pull my GPU underwater.


I am trying my best to hold out until I get a new set of cards in the next 8-12 months before watercooling GPU's


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ilaylowfoshow*
> 
> I am trying my best to hold out until I get a new set of cards in the next 8-12 months before watercooling GPU's


I agree, I don't want to water cool my GTX285 I'll wait till I upgrade to something new


----------



## Ahzanti

I am planing on getting the XSPC rasa 750 RX240 I would like to know if the 240 will be enugh to cool my CPU and GPU? If not what would and keep my case as quite as posible. I do plan to over clock my CPU. If it will keep them cool, then by how much?

*Case*: Thermaltake Level 10 GT snow editon

*Mobo*: GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD5 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard

*GPU*: HIS IceQ X Turbo H695QNT2G2M Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity

*PSU*: FSP Group AURUM GOLD 600W (AU-600) ATX12V /EPS 12V CrossFire ready 80PLUS GOLD Certified Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply

*CPU*: AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 3.6GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8150FRGUBOX

*Ram*: G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR

*OS drive*: Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F90GBGT-BK 2.5" 90GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

*Game/data drive*: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

*CD/DVD/BD*: Sony Optiarc Black 12X Half Height Tray Blu-ray Writer SATA BD-5300S


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> I am planing on getting the XSPC rasa 750 RX240 I would like to know if the 240 will be enugh to cool my CPU and GPU? If not what would and keep my case as quite as posible. I do plan to over clock my CPU. If it will keep them cool, then by how much?
> *Case*: Thermaltake Level 10 GT snow editon
> *Mobo*: GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD5 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
> 
> *GPU*: HIS IceQ X Turbo H695QNT2G2M Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity
> *PSU*: FSP Group AURUM GOLD 600W (AU-600) ATX12V /EPS 12V CrossFire ready 80PLUS GOLD Certified Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
> *CPU*: AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 3.6GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8150FRGUBOX
> *Ram*: G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR
> *OS drive*: Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F90GBGT-BK 2.5" 90GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
> *Game/data drive*: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
> *CD/DVD/BD*: Sony Optiarc Black 12X Half Height Tray Blu-ray Writer SATA BD-5300S


yep, that's what I am using to cool my CPU and GPU getting great temps with fans on low. Max out around 40C with fans low









Ambient temp is low since it is winter, I don't know exact temp but I have house set at 70F


----------



## Ahzanti

Quote:


> yep, that's what I am using to cool my CPU and GPU getting great temps with fans on low. Max out around 40C with fans low
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient temp is low since it is winter, I don't know exact temp but I have house set at 70F










Yea! Thank you so much for the quick reply!

Oh and to most every one on this list. This is my first water cooled computer. I have been building my own computers for 12 years or so. Wanted to do water cooling before but never had the cash, or the knowledge. You all are extremely helpful in providing it. I learned a lot from the links and discussions you have had.









Oh and some one said that you can use Ketchup?! to clean the water block if it gets really nasty looking?


----------



## jackofhearts495

You can use a fair number of methods to clean off a processor, as long as you finish by cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.









I've heard about the ketchup thing, too, but never seen it done.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> You can use a fair number of methods to clean off a processor, as long as you finish by cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard about the ketchup thing, too, but never seen it done.


Make sure you use 90% isopropyl alcohol so that it leave as little residue as possible when it dries


----------



## pbi76

Hi everyone:

I started with a RX240 kit with a Raystorm block. The system is a CPU-only loop for now.

I will slowly beef up my watercooling system because I plan to cool more parts of my system. I was at the store and decided to get a RX480 which I have already installed. Unfortunately for me, my temps didn't seem to go down by much compared to when I only had an RX240. Load temps went down by a few degrees but I was expecting more since my radiator surface are increased by a whole lot. Ambient temps where I am at is in the area of 32C and my load temps in Prime95 hit 68C and 72C in IBT.

My CPU is an i7 2600k clocked at 4.5ghz with a Vcore of 1.32v. My loop is pump/res-RX480-cpu-RX240. The RX480 is externally mounted with 4 low-rpm fans in pull. RX240 is internally mounted with 2 fans in push.

I see 2 possibilities. One is insufficient understanding of watercooling on my part. Another possibility is my flow rate being reduced too much by the new radiator.

What do you guys think?

Thanks.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> Hi everyone:
> I started with a RX240 kit with a Raystorm block. The system is a CPU-only loop for now.
> I will slowly beef up my watercooling system because I plan to cool more parts of my system. I was at the store and decided to get a RX480 which I have already installed. Unfortunately for me, my temps didn't seem to go down by much compared to when I only had an RX240. Load temps went down by a few degrees but I was expecting more since my radiator surface are increased by a whole lot. Ambient temps where I am at is in the area of 32C and my load temps in Prime95 hit 68C and 72C in IBT.
> My CPU is an i7 2600k clocked at 4.5ghz with a Vcore of 1.32v. My loop is pump/res-RX480-cpu-RX240. The RX480 is externally mounted with 4 low-rpm fans in pull. RX240 is internally mounted with 2 fans in push.
> I see 2 possibilities. One is insufficient understanding of watercooling on my part. Another possibility is my flow rate being reduced too much by the new radiator.
> What do you guys think?
> Thanks.


You aren't going to see much drop in temperatures. What you will see is that as your overclock increases, your temperatures should remain the same. The radiators can only dissipate so much heat, while your CPU can only transfer so much heat through the block. If you want to see the benefits of watercooling, increase your overclock.


----------



## pbi76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> You aren't going to see much drop in temperatures. What you will see is that as your overclock increases, your temperatures should remain the same. The radiators can only dissipate so much heat, while your CPU can only transfer so much heat through the block. If you want to see the benefits of watercooling, increase your overclock.


Thanks.

I considered that possibility so I increased my overclock and Vcore. Tried 4.8ghz at 1.4v and 5ghz at 1.5v for a few minutes. Temps shot up to like 80C. Someone suggested that it could b bad CPU block mounting or TIM application. I'll try that in a bit.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> Hi everyone:
> I started with a RX240 kit with a Raystorm block. The system is a CPU-only loop for now.
> I will slowly beef up my watercooling system because I plan to cool more parts of my system. I was at the store and decided to get a RX480 which I have already installed. Unfortunately for me, my temps didn't seem to go down by much compared to when I only had an RX240. Load temps went down by a few degrees but I was expecting more since my radiator surface are increased by a whole lot. Ambient temps where I am at is in the area of 32C and my load temps in Prime95 hit 68C and 72C in IBT.
> My CPU is an i7 2600k clocked at 4.5ghz with a Vcore of 1.32v. My loop is pump/res-RX480-cpu-RX240. The RX480 is externally mounted with 4 low-rpm fans in pull. RX240 is internally mounted with 2 fans in push.
> I see 2 possibilities. One is insufficient understanding of watercooling on my part. Another possibility is my flow rate being reduced too much by the new radiator.
> What do you guys think?
> Thanks.


It might be that your pump is having trouble keeping up, but it shouldn't be. Now with that said you won't be able to get the temps of any given chip especially at load below a certain point no matter how many radiators you add! What I mean is that before you added the new rad you were already efficiently removing the heat from your CPU the addition of the new rad was only able to improve upon things slightly. The only way that I can see you lowering your temps at this point would be to lower your ambient air temp so that the rads could shed more heat. Now once you add in your graphics cards you'll see your setup shine because you'll actually be putting enough heat into the water to put all that radiator surface area to work.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> Thanks.
> I considered that possibility so I increased my overclock and Vcore. Tried 4.8ghz at 1.4v and 5ghz at 1.5v for a few minutes. Temps shot up to like 80C. Someone suggested that it could b bad CPU block mounting or TIM application. I'll try that in a bit.


Yeah, something's wrong if that happens. How is your loop order? Can you post a photo of what it looks like?


----------



## pbi76

I just remounted the block using Arctic Silver 5 (used Gelid GC Extreme in the previous mount) and I'm getting the same temps more or less. Hopefully, the temps will go down a bit once the TIM cures.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> I just remounted the block using Arctic Silver 5 (used Gelid GC Extreme in the previous mount) and I'm getting the same temps more or less. Hopefully, the temps will go down a bit once the TIM cures.


What does the TIM spread look like when you took your block off? Curing is over-rated; it'll only go down 1-2C.

Maybe it's time to look into what WeirdHarold said. Need to know your loop order and a picture too.


----------



## pbi76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Yeah, something's wrong if that happens. How is your loop order? Can you post a photo of what it looks like?


I'll try to post a picture later but I'll try my best to describe it first. The loop order is pump/res-rx480-cpu-rx240

The pump/res is mounted at the bottom of the case. The rx480 is externally mounted (vertical) at the rear of the case with the inlet/outlet on top. So it's basically an uphill climb for the water. The CPU block is about 5 or so inches lower that the rx480. The rx240 is mounted vertically and occupies a few 5.25 inch drive bays with the inlet/outlet ports at the bottom. The inlet/outlet ports of the rx240 are lower relative to the CPU block and are a few inches above the ports of the ports of the res/pump.


----------



## pbi76

Here's a pic of my loop. I misjudged the height difference between the ports of the external rad and the cpu block.


----------



## faMine

This club should include EX series owners!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faMine*
> 
> This club should include EX series owners!


It does, the club was just created prior to the EX series and I don't think it's ever been updated to say that it does. But I'm sure anyone with a RASA kit is welcome to join regardless of what series it is I know it doesn't matter to me in the slightest if the kit is RS - RX or EX.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> Here's a pic of my loop. I misjudged the height difference between the ports of the external rad and the cpu block.


I can't be sure on this but your pump is pumping a long way UP to get to that 480 rad on the back of your case, then the water falls to the bottom of it's path in that rad and has to be pumped or forced back to the top of the rad to exit! This could be putting a bunch of strain on the pump, which could be affecting your flow rate and thus temps.


----------



## pbi76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I can't be sure on this but your pump is pumping a long way UP to get to that 480 rad on the back of your case, then the water falls to the bottom of it's path in that rad and has to be pumped or forced back to the top of the rad to exit! This could be putting a bunch of strain on the pump, which could be affecting your flow rate and thus temps.


I was thinking that the location of the pump/res isn't ideal but I have also seen a few builds with the pump at the bottom so I figured that my setup is okay. I guess there is no harm in trying a different pump location.

Thanks.


----------



## desmin88

Anybody know the thickness of the fans included in the RS kits, specifically RS360?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desmin88*
> 
> Anybody know the thickness of the fans included in the RS kits, specifically RS360?


25mm.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> I was thinking that the location of the pump/res isn't ideal but I have also seen a few builds with the pump at the bottom so I figured that my setup is okay. I guess there is no harm in trying a different pump location.
> Thanks.


I'd hang it from the top of you case temporarily. I agree, that's a long way to push around.

What were your temps before the 480?


----------



## pbi76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> I'd hang it from the top of you case temporarily. I agree, that's a long way to push around.
> What were your temps before the 480?


Temps were about 2-3 degrees warmer prior to the 480. I'll just re-configure the loop with the pump/res up high. In any case, temps will either stay the same or improve so it's worth a shot.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desmin88*
> 
> Anybody know the thickness of the fans included in the RS kits, specifically RS360?


These are the fans that come in the Rasa kits:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14319/fan-913/XSPC_120mm_x_25mm_Radiator_Chassis_Fan_-_1650_RPM.html?tl=g36c15s60


----------



## faMine

Should be 25mm thickness.


----------



## strap624

Hey guys, thinking of getting a RASA kit for my i7-950 and further down the road Ivy bridge, I don't plan on doing any GPU blocks. What kit should I get for good overclocking potential?


----------



## Los Hog

RX240


----------



## pbi76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> Temps were about 2-3 degrees warmer prior to the 480. I'll just re-configure the loop with the pump/res up high. In any case, temps will either stay the same or improve so it's worth a shot.


Temps improved by about 3-4 degrees after moving the pump to the top of the case.









Can we assume that my system has/had flow rate issues and upgrading the pump will result in even lower temperatures?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

this thread still going strong and so are my rx240 and rx360 i love water now i wont ever go back to air on gpu or cpus cant beat being able to turn all my fans down to 300rpms or turn 95% of them off and rest on low and still stay cool. My loop has been together for 2 years now and i drained it 3 months ago thinking i might need to but the water was still crystal clear and smelled better then our tap water lol people that claim water cooling is high maintenance is really full of it.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> Temps improved by about 3-4 degrees after moving the pump to the top of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can we assume that my system has/had flow rate issues and upgrading the pump will result in even lower temperatures?


What are your system specs? I can't believe that I didn't ask them before.

And yes. With temp decreases of 4C just by moving the pump, you've probably got a weak pump or it isn't strong enough for your loop.


----------



## pbi76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> What are your system specs? I can't believe that I didn't ask them before.
> And yes. With temp decreases of 4C just by moving the pump, you've probably got a weak pump or it isn't strong enough for your loop.


My CPU is a 2600k overclocked to 4.5ghz with a Vcore of 1.32v

Watercooling system consists of:
pump: x20 750
block: Raystorm
Radiator 1: Rx240
Radiator 2: Rx480
tubes: Durelene 7/16 id

My pump makes a bit of noise (clicking sound like a hard drive) which seems to be common. I wonder if that means that it isn't up to spec.

Air from the radiators isn't warm so I'm thinking that there is still room to improve my temps and it's a flow rate issue.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> My CPU is a 2600k overclocked to 4.5ghz with a Vcore of 1.32v
> Watercooling system consists of:
> pump: x20 750
> block: Raystorm
> Radiator 1: Rx240
> Radiator 2: Rx480
> tubes: Durelene 7/16 id
> My pump makes a bit of noise (clicking sound like a hard drive) which seems to be common. I wonder if that means that it isn't up to spec.
> Air from the radiators isn't warm so I'm thinking that there is still room to improve my temps and it's a flow rate issue.


My 2500k is at your same speeds and volts, I never see above 50 with IBT. Are you sure your fans are plugged in and spinning (stupid question, I know)?

Your pump shouldn't make a clicking after a few days (once all the air gets out of the loop). If it does, you might want to consider an RMA. Unless something got stuck in the CPU block, that pump should be able to handle the load.

Or if you don't feel like trouble shooting, you can get a MCP 355 or 655 pump.


----------



## pbi76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> My 2500k is at your same speeds and volts, I never see above 50 with IBT. Are you sure your fans are plugged in and spinning (stupid question, I know)?
> Your pump shouldn't make a clicking after a few days (once all the air gets out of the loop). If it does, you might want to consider an RMA. Unless something got stuck in the CPU block, that pump should be able to handle the load.
> Or if you don't feel like trouble shooting, you can get a MCP 355 or 655 pump.


Hehehe. Yup, my fans are working. I'll wait a bit for the pump to quiet down. I'm under the assumption that 2500k will generally run cooler compared to a 2600k due to Hyperthreading. In any case, I'll probably upgrade to a 655 but that will have to wait since I can't find anyone selling a Vario here in the Philippines. I can only find the 655b here.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> Hehehe. Yup, my fans are working. I'll wait a bit for the pump to quiet down. I'm under the assumption that 2500k will generally run cooler compared to a 2600k due to Hyperthreading. In any case, I'll probably upgrade to a 655 but that will have to wait since I can't find anyone selling a Vario here in the Philippines. I can only find the 655b here.


Might be able to pick one up in the marketplace, but I understand the whole international shipping deal (and customs; don't get me started).

HT or not, you shouldn't be seeing over 60, max. That's what you paid for in watercooling.


----------



## pbi76

Oh yes. International shipping to the Philippines is crazy... I'm better off paying more to the local sellers than having to deal with customs and tax issues.

And I agree that my temps should be much better.

I played around with Martin's flow program and it looks like my flow rate, at best, is in the area of .8gpm when the ideal is to hit around 1. Assuming my pump is on the weak side to begin with, then a pump upgrade should yield some good gains.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> What are your system specs? I can't believe that I didn't ask them before.
> And yes. With temp decreases of 4C just by moving the pump, you've probably got a weak pump or it isn't strong enough for your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> My CPU is a 2600k overclocked to 4.5ghz with a Vcore of 1.32v
> 
> Watercooling system consists of:
> pump: x20 750
> block: Raystorm
> Radiator 1: Rx240
> Radiator 2: Rx480
> tubes: Durelene 7/16 id
> 
> My pump makes a bit of noise (clicking sound like a hard drive) which seems to be common. I wonder if that means that it isn't up to spec.
> 
> Air from the radiators isn't warm so I'm thinking that there is still room to improve my temps and it's a flow rate issue.
Click to expand...

If your running a cpu loop only I dont think flow rate maybe your problem
Your rads only drop flow rate about .20 per rad and the block is about a 1.1 drop and tubing is .5 per meter. Maybe ambient temp is playing a large part in it ?


----------



## pbi76

Ambient temps over here are pretty high so yes, it's quite possible that I have hit the limit of my cooling system. Since there are so many possible variables, I'll observe my system for a few days since I just drained and re-configured it last night so there's probably air left in the loop.


----------



## strap624

Hey guys, just got a Lian li pc-x2000f case, I want to do my first WC loop. Can I use the RX240 radiator with the stock front 140mm fans using fan adapters?

You can see the top two front fans in this picture. Could I do a push pull setup and use the stock 140's for push and then 120's for pull?

Edit; nevermind it wont work. I need a dual 140 rad


----------



## WeirdHarold

What you could do is order the rs240 kit and replace the 240mm rad with a 280mm rad that will fit the front of that case


----------



## slice259

I have an i5 750 @ 4.2Ghz and I am looking to push too 4.4Ghz for my Crossfire 7970's. I am currently running a Corsair H50 with push-pull Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000's. 100% load temp is around 85 C, what could I expect a XSPC rasa RX240 kit with push-pull ultra kazes to perform? I could fit a 360 rad on the back of my Antec 1200 but would rather keep a cleaner look and just mount the rad tight to the rear 2x 120 fans thus meaning I use a 240 rad over a 360.

Thanks


----------



## gotskil

This is the kit I've decided to get:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=30187

It doesn't specifically say it supports socket 1155 but I am assuming it does right?

Is there anything else I need to get? I'm going to order some white tubing but what else would be handy? i'll grab a couple rotary's What about hose camps is that something I'll need? Trying to make sure I'm not missing anything.

Also the res and pump will fit in two 5.25 bays?

Thanks guys.


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slice259*
> 
> I have an i5 750 @ 4.2Ghz and I am looking to push too 4.4Ghz for my Crossfire 7970's. I am currently running a Corsair H50 with push-pull Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000's. 100% load temp is around 85 C, what could I expect a XSPC rasa RX240 kit with push-pull ultra kazes to perform? I could fit a 360 rad on the back of my Antec 1200 but would rather keep a cleaner look and just mount the rad tight to the rear 2x 120 fans thus meaning I use a 240 rad over a 360.
> Thanks


What is your voltage. My i5 750 @ 4.01ghz runs 64/62/60/60 with IBT max. and that is with 1.4125v. I am using an RX360 with push ap-15 @ 1850. This is with a raystorm block. Depending on what your current voltage 4.4ghz may not even be an option. 4.2 is really pretty high for a 750 anyways.

Best of luck to you.


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougshell*
> 
> What is your voltage. My i5 750 @ 4.01ghz runs 64/62/60/60 with IBT max. and that is with 1.4125v. I am using an RX360 with push ap-15 @ 1850. This is with a raystorm block. Depending on what your current voltage 4.4ghz may not even be an option. 4.2 is really pretty high for a 750 anyways.
> Best of luck to you.


I can achieve 4.0Ghz with 1.35v, and achieve 4.2Ghz with 1.42V. With 1.45v I will get 4.4+ But I need the additional cooling, and from the sounds and look of things I am going to need a 360 rad min. The rx rad isn't needed for a single cpu loop but its one of those why not deals. If I am going to buy the kit why not just get the big boy!


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slice259*
> 
> I can achieve 4.0Ghz with 1.35v, and achieve 4.2Ghz with 1.42V. With 1.45v I will get 4.4+ But I need the additional cooling, and from the sounds and look of things I am going to need a 360 rad min. The rx rad isn't needed for a single cpu loop but its one of those why not deals. If I am going to buy the kit why not just get the big boy!


With my old i7 875K @4.329GHz 1.36v my hottest core was 68c on the RX360 kit. That's with the rad in my HAF 932 with 3 AP 15's pushing air out the top of the case


----------



## Gainward

Hi every one

I have one question and I didn't want to make a new thread so I hope I found an answer here

Now I have the RS360 kit and I want to upgrade the kit, So I figured out that getting another RAD would be the best upgrade to the kit

So I'm wondering if this rad would be good :
Alphacool NexXxoS Pro 240 v2

and which one is better, EX240 or this Alphacool 240 v2?

Thank you.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> Hi every one
> I have one question and I didn't want to make a new thread so I hope I found an answer here
> Now I have the RS360 kit and I want to upgrade the kit, So I figured out that getting another RAD would be the best upgrade to the kit
> So I'm wondering if this rad would be good :
> Alphacool NexXxoS Pro 240 v2
> and which one is better, EX240 or this Alphacool 240 v2?
> Thank you.


The best upgrade is going to be dependent on what you want to do with the kit. If you are only going to keep a CPU loop, then an extra radiator won't help. Probably best to go with a different pump and reservoir that way you don't have to worry about it when you upgrade.


----------



## Gainward

Yes actually the loop is only for the CPU, I'm not going to add a GPU block or something to the loop.
The reason why I want to add a new rad to the loop is I use very silent fans with low airflow, witch means less performance, and I feel like I need another rad to get better performance..
But changing the pump? I didn't think about that earlier


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slice259*
> 
> I can achieve 4.0Ghz with 1.35v, and achieve 4.2Ghz with 1.42V. With 1.45v I will get 4.4+ But I need the additional cooling, and from the sounds and look of things I am going to need a 360 rad min. The rx rad isn't needed for a single cpu loop but its one of those why not deals. If I am going to buy the kit why not just get the big boy!


Boy am i jealous of you guys and your low vCore 750s


----------



## .theMetal

so I've been sneekily crawling this thread, and have a few questions to ask the experts. my plan is to grab an i5 2500k and put a rs360 on it with six yate loon high speeds in push pull. the case i want to get is the HAF 932 and mount the rad on the top with the fans all blowing out of the top of the case.

first question:
will the fans and radiator all fit inside the case and clear the mobo and everything? it looks like a roomy case but i want to make sure.

second:
I know by reading the discription of the case that 3 120 fans will mount on the top of the case but looking at the pictures, I only see holes and such for 2 120 fans. does the plastic piece near the front of the top of the case let air flow through? or is it removable or something?

also if there is anyone with pictures of the set up i want it would be awesome if you could post or direct me to them









thanks all!

ps the over all goal is to get the 2500k at 5ghz. I dont plan on adding the gpu's to the loop any time soon and if i do i will add another rad or something, anyways is this an overkill set up for what i want to do? i don't mind if it is but just wondering lol


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> so I've been sneekily crawling this thread, and have a few questions to ask the experts. my plan is to grab an i5 2500k and put a rs360 on it with six yate loon high speeds in push pull. the case i want to get is the HAF 932 and mount the rad on the top with the fans all blowing out of the top of the case.
> first question:
> will the fans and radiator all fit inside the case and clear the mobo and everything? it looks like a roomy case but i want to make sure.
> second:
> I know by reading the discription of the case that 3 120 fans will mount on the top of the case but looking at the pictures, I only see holes and such for 2 120 fans. does the plastic piece near the front of the top of the case let air flow through? or is it removable or something?
> also if there is anyone with pictures of the set up i want it would be awesome if you could post or direct me to them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks all!
> ps the over all goal is to get the 2500k at 5ghz. I dont plan on adding the gpu's to the loop any time soon and if i do i will add another rad or something, anyways is this an overkill set up for what i want to do? i don't mind if it is but just wondering lol


I've got no idea about the case, so I can't help you there. However i would forget about the RS360 and get the EX360 instead. Cost around the same (at least where i am) and performs better, it even beats the RX line of rads with High RPM fans, such as the ones your buying.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> so I've been sneekily crawling this thread, and have a few questions to ask the experts. my plan is to grab an i5 2500k and put a rs360 on it with six yate loon high speeds in push pull. the case i want to get is the HAF 932 and mount the rad on the top with the fans all blowing out of the top of the case.
> first question:
> will the fans and radiator all fit inside the case and clear the mobo and everything? it looks like a roomy case but i want to make sure.
> second:
> I know by reading the discription of the case that 3 120 fans will mount on the top of the case but looking at the pictures, I only see holes and such for 2 120 fans. does the plastic piece near the front of the top of the case let air flow through? or is it removable or something?
> also if there is anyone with pictures of the set up i want it would be awesome if you could post or direct me to them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks all!
> ps the over all goal is to get the 2500k at 5ghz. I dont plan on adding the gpu's to the loop any time soon and if i do i will add another rad or something, anyways is this an overkill set up for what i want to do? i don't mind if it is but just wondering lol


I've owned the 932 before and you shouldn't have any problem putting push/pull fans on the rad. The front area that you mentioned does allow ventilation out of it. It doesn't look like it from the front, but there are vents in the back to allow airflow for a third 120mm fan. I hope that helps and good luck to your water cooling upgrade.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Changed a few parts of my Rasa 240 loop. New AP-15's (painted white), rad down bottom, and a custom poly-carbonate side window. GPU block is next


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> so I've been sneekily crawling this thread, and have a few questions to ask the experts. my plan is to grab an i5 2500k and put a rs360 on it with six yate loon high speeds in push pull. the case i want to get is the HAF 932 and mount the rad on the top with the fans all blowing out of the top of the case.
> first question:
> will the fans and radiator all fit inside the case and clear the mobo and everything? it looks like a roomy case but i want to make sure.
> second:
> I know by reading the discription of the case that 3 120 fans will mount on the top of the case but looking at the pictures, I only see holes and such for 2 120 fans. does the plastic piece near the front of the top of the case let air flow through? or is it removable or something?
> also if there is anyone with pictures of the set up i want it would be awesome if you could post or direct me to them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks all!
> ps the over all goal is to get the 2500k at 5ghz. I dont plan on adding the gpu's to the loop any time soon and if i do i will add another rad or something, anyways is this an overkill set up for what i want to do? i don't mind if it is but just wondering lol


You could probably fit RX360 with push pull. This is with just push fans on the RX360, And theres still lots of room


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> You could probably fit RX360 with push pull. This is with just push fans on the RX360, And theres still lots of room


What is the form factor of your motherboard it look a bit small.

I doubt i could get Push/Pull on mine with my ASUS p55d7PRO installed.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougshell*
> 
> What is the form factor of your motherboard it look a bit small.
> I doubt i could get Push/Pull on mine with my ASUS p55d7PRO installed.


I have the ASUS P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3, And it has a 6990+6970+9800gt on it. It's not small, the 932 makes it look that way







. It's ATX and I think yours is to. The 932 has alot of room in the roof. Look close at the pic without the RX120 in the rear, There should be room for push pull.


----------



## kalisto2002

This is my new SigRig
Got an RS240 Add me to the list and here are my before and after temps on air with a 64 cooler LP
Min 45c
Max 60c
Phenom II 960t Unlocked to 1605t
stock volt 1.35
stock freq. 3ghz


Forgot to screenshot my 5 hr run, I'll update this post tomorrow with the results of a 10hr RS240 Kit
min 22c
max 39c
volt. 1.4
freq. 3516mhz

{will add pic tomorrow ib4 no screenshot no proof}

Heres a couple case pics, btw not so good at cable mgmt.




Let me know what you guys think for a first time watercooler


----------



## Los Hog

Wow thats a fine looking job you done there sir !!
To join the Rasa club just fill this out LINK and go Here scroll down the page and you will find your sig code


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*
> 
> You could probably fit RX360 with push pull. This is with just push fans on the RX360, And theres still lots of room


this is exactly what i plan on doing eventually, for now just the top rad. I'm also tossing around getting the rx over the rs (money is the only problem) but stick with just 3 push fans (still yate loons, they have high static pressure) so it wont be for a couple months.

any way thank you all for your responses, I appreciate the advice and look forward to joining the club eventually


----------



## Kokin

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone here was selling their pump/res combo from the kit. I'm also looking for two universal GPU waterblocks and possibly the Rasa CPU waterblock. Please PM me if you are interested in selling or trading. Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

I've got a question for anyone that can give me some advice. I'm about to add a second GTX 560 Ti to my system and I'm looking to install it in parallel in order to maximize cooling and reduce restriction. I currently have my my fans set up on top of my rad in a pull configuration. Should I look to add fans at the bottom for push/pull or should my current configuration be able to handle the extra heat? I also have a question about SLI adapters. Should I look at getting one or can I get away with just using hose and barbs to connect the two cards?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've got a question for anyone that can give me some advice. I'm about to add a second GTX 560 Ti to my system and I'm looking to install it in parallel in order to maximize cooling and reduce restriction. I currently have my my fans set up on top of my rad in a pull configuration. Should I look to add fans at the bottom for push/pull or should my current configuration be able to handle the extra heat? I also have a question about SLI adapters. Should I look at getting one or can I get away with just using hose and barbs to connect the two cards?


I doubt that push/pull will help much. You might need to get some extra rad space (another 120mm if you are going to overclock anything).

However, the more pressing thing is that I doubt the stock pump is going to push enough water for a parallel setup. I think it could handle series, but not parallel.


----------



## savagepagan

I am new liquid cooling. I am looking at the XSPC Rasa 750 RX360. Is the pump strong enough to handle the cpu, two gpus and a second 120mm radiator(double thick)? It will be for a Sandy Bridge system and I will over clock.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I am new liquid cooling. I am looking at the XSPC Rasa 750 RX360. Is the pump strong enough to handle the cpu, two gpus and a second 120mm radiator(double thick)? It will be for a Sandy Bridge system and I will over clock.


You should be fine. Im running RX360, CPU, RX120, and 6990 water block just fine


----------



## Zaxbys

My pump just died on my Rasa 240 kit









Any idea on XSPC's customer service?

I want to RMA this pump/res


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*
> 
> My pump just died on my Rasa 240 kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea on XSPC's customer service?
> I want to RMA this pump/res


Their service is very good. Normally you'll get a reply in a business day. In my case, I got a reply in a few hours. You'll need to send a video for evidence.


----------



## savagepagan

Man. I had to go high and low to find those Gentle Typhoon AP-15s. found em at Performance-PCs.com for $17.95.


----------



## Los Hog

Best fans around I have 16 of those bad boys


----------



## jackofhearts495

aquatuning.us has them for $14ish each (where I got mine), if you don't mind waiting forever for your order to process.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> aquatuning.us has them for $14ish each (where I got mine), if you don't mind waiting forever for your order to process.


How do you like your Asrock extreme? I just snagged an open box p67 extreme6 rev.3 ebay for $135.


----------



## DraXxus1549

Hey guys I just received and installed my Rasa rs 240 kit. So far I love it, but I am a little concerned about my temps currently the cores are idling at ~40C and load they hit ~60C under load. Is this normal? CPU is the one in my sig rig its overclocked to 4GHz with 1.3V. It is probably 21-22C ambient in my dorm.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DraXxus1549*
> 
> Hey guys I just received and installed my Rasa rs 240 kit. So far I love it, but I am a little concerned about my temps currently the cores are idling at ~40C and load they hit ~60C under load. Is this normal? CPU is the one in my sig rig its overclocked to 4GHz with 1.3V. It is probably 21-22C ambient in my dorm.


Did you set it up as intake? Also are you using the stock fans from the kit or your own? The RS rads aren't that great until you hit the higher RPMs like 1600-2000+.


----------



## DraXxus1549

I am running the stock fans pulling air in from outside the case.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DraXxus1549*
> 
> I am running the stock fans pulling air in from outside the case.


Try doing a push setup instead or if possible, a push/pull with another 2 or 4 fans.


----------



## DraXxus1549

It sounds like I should upgrade my fans too, what works well with this rad?


----------



## jeffblute

Ok I will be ordering a 360 RX for my upcoming transition into a switch 810, I am trying to grab a few things to make this build go smooth and future proof









Right now I will be sticking with the stock barbs that come with the RX and use clamps until I get some extra cash. Until then I have a few questions I am hoping to get some help with.

1. With the stock barbs would I would want to use a 7/16 ID tubing for the tightest seal possible?
2. Does the kit supply enough tubing (in a standard full size case) for a drainage tube off a T split?
3. What are the best fans to use BESIDES AP-15s on the RX rads? They are sold out on FrozenCpu again.

Thanks for the help can't wait to get this started


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> How do you like your Asrock extreme? I just snagged an open box p67 extreme6 rev.3 ebay for $135.


I had to RMA the original (bought it new a few weeks ago) due to coil whine. Apart from that, I have no complaints. I just wish the the heatsinks were a little lower profile so I could fit bigger hardware up above.

I wouldn't have bought an open box from eBay though just to save $25, but you'll probably be fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DraXxus1549*
> 
> It sounds like I should upgrade my fans too, what works well with this rad?


Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's (or pretty much any other RPM you're comfortable with) are fantastic for radiators.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> Ok I will be ordering a 360 RX for my upcoming transition into a switch 810, I am trying to grab a few things to make this build go smooth and future proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now I will be sticking with the stock barbs that come with the RX and use clamps until I get some extra cash. Until then I have a few questions I am hoping to get some help with.
> 
> 1. With the stock barbs would I would want to use a 7/16 ID tubing for the tightest seal possible?
> 2. Does the kit supply enough tubing (in a standard full size case) for a drainage tube off a T split?
> 3. What are the best fans to use BESIDES AP-15s on the RX rads? They are sold out on FrozenCpu again.
> 
> Thanks for the help can't wait to get this started


1. The stock barbs are 1/2 OD and the tubing is 7/16 id so it makes a very tight seal. As you will find when you go to put it on
2. If you plan out your loop than yes you should have the left over to make a drain. I would tell you that the tubing that comes with the kit discolors very quick
3. The xspc fans that come with the kit work good on a rx rad but if you would like something else you might try THESE Yate Loon fans


----------



## Newbie2009

Add me please, just got myself a xspc 750 rx360 kit with an EK Full cover block for my 7970


----------



## crazynuts16

System Specs:

CPU - i7-2600k
Motherboard - Asus Z68 pro
Ram - Gskill Sniper 1866 8gb
HSF - Hyper 212 evo Corsair H80
HDD - Spinpoint 1tb HDD Hd103sj x2
SSD - Crucial M4 128gb
PSU - XFX PRO750W XXX
GPU - Gigabyte 6850 OC
Case - Cooler Master Storm Scout

Budget: set out with 150 max, stretching to 200 now

Need to confirm couple things before i make my purchase:

1. RX240 KIT from jabtech

2. 7 feet of PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD Read a couple posts about the stock tubing not being good enough, how is this tubing?

3. Fans : I can't understand which ones to pick, Push/pull with shroud is the best setup right? And from what i understand yate loons are the ones to get, so if i get 4 of those. Which yate loons should i get?

My understanding is that lower rpm fans are better with the rx240. And do i want closed or open corner fan?

Fan RPM CFM DBA
YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-12 1350 47 28
YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12 - Medium Speed 1650 70.5 33
YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-12C Low Speed 1300 44.5 20.8
YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SH-12 - High Speed 2200 88 40
YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12C Medium Speed 1800 62 28.5

Which of these should i pick or are there some others i should be considering? Do you recommend any specific shrouds, if applicable?

4. Did not find any kill coil or liquids on jabtech to prevent algae growth etc., recommendations?

5. Know any guides to doing this in a cooler master scout? Saw one on the front page but am not sure if i can fit a rx240 with push/pull where he put the rs240 with only push.

Thanks!


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazynuts16*
> 
> System Specs:
> CPU - i7-2600k
> Motherboard - Asus Z68 pro
> Ram - Gskill Sniper 1866 8gb
> HSF - Hyper 212 evo Corsair H80
> HDD - Spinpoint 1tb HDD Hd103sj x2
> SSD - Crucial M4 128gb
> PSU - XFX PRO750W XXX
> GPU - Gigabyte 6850 OC
> Case - Cooler Master Storm Scout
> Budget: set out with 150 max, stretching to 200 now
> Need to confirm couple things before i make my purchase:
> 1. RX240 KIT from jabtech
> 2. 7 feet of PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD Read a couple posts about the stock tubing not being good enough, how is this tubing?
> 3. Fans : I can't understand which ones to pick, Push/pull with shroud is the best setup right? And from what i understand yate loons are the ones to get, so if i get 4 of those. Which yate loons should i get?
> My understanding is that lower rpm fans are better with the rx240. And do i want closed or open corner fan?
> Fan RPM CFM DBA
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-12 1350 47 28
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12 - Medium Speed 1650 70.5 33
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-12C Low Speed 1300 44.5 20.8
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SH-12 - High Speed 2200 88 40
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12C Medium Speed 1800 62 28.5
> Which of these should i pick or are there some others i should be considering? Do you recommend any specific shrouds, if applicable?
> 4. Did not find any kill coil or liquids on jabtech to prevent algae growth etc., recommendations?
> 5. Know any guides to doing this in a cooler master scout? Saw one on the front page but am not sure if i can fit a rx240 with push/pull where he put the rs240 with only push.
> Thanks!


1. Great Kit. (not sure what your budget is but you may not be happy with the pump if you plan to add gpu waterblock or more radiator later
2. Great tubing. I have the exact same tubing in UV blue and i love it.
3. Push/pull with shroud is a bit much if your only using 240 rad and just cooling at CPU, I would go either push_shroud or push pull. Also no matter what radiator you pick higher rpm will always cool better, so dont misunderstand peoples recommendation saying that the rx is better with low rpm fans. They just mean that with 600rpm fans the rx will perform better then say an ex, but with higher rpm fans the ex will perform better then the rx. But no matter what given one rad, increasing rpm will increase cooling.
4. http://www.jab-tech.com/Antimicrobial-Silver-Strip-pr-4530.html ( I would run nothign but kill coil, add nuke if you want)
5. If the user you saw did rs push. I doubt you woudl have room for rx push pull. Maybe someone else will chime in.


----------



## pirates712

Finally got the new pump (silent!) and replaced the clear tubing while I was at it.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazynuts16*
> 
> System Specs:
> 
> CPU - i7-2600k
> Motherboard - Asus Z68 pro
> Ram - Gskill Sniper 1866 8gb
> HSF - Hyper 212 evo Corsair H80
> HDD - Spinpoint 1tb HDD Hd103sj x2
> SSD - Crucial M4 128gb
> PSU - XFX PRO750W XXX
> GPU - Gigabyte 6850 OC
> Case - Cooler Master Storm Scout
> 
> Budget: set out with 150 max, stretching to 200 now
> 
> Need to confirm couple things before i make my purchase:
> 
> 1. RX240 KIT from jabtech
> 
> 2. 7 feet of PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD Read a couple posts about the stock tubing not being good enough, how is this tubing?
> 
> 3. Fans : I can't understand which ones to pick, Push/pull with shroud is the best setup right? And from what i understand yate loons are the ones to get, so if i get 4 of those. Which yate loons should i get?
> 
> My understanding is that lower rpm fans are better with the rx240. And do i want closed or open corner fan?
> 
> Fan RPM CFM DBA
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-12 1350 47 28
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12 - Medium Speed 1650 70.5 33
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-12C Low Speed 1300 44.5 20.8
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SH-12 - High Speed 2200 88 40
> YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12C Medium Speed 1800 62 28.5
> 
> Which of these should i pick or are there some others i should be considering? Do you recommend any specific shrouds, if applicable?
> 
> 4. Did not find any kill coil or liquids on jabtech to prevent algae growth etc., recommendations?
> 
> 5. Know any guides to doing this in a cooler master scout? Saw one on the front page but am not sure if i can fit a rx240 with push/pull where he put the rs240 with only push.
> 
> Thanks!


Looks like it will be a very nice set up !! if you get the RX240 kit you only need to do a push or pull what ever fits your case. Doing a push/pull on that rad wont help your temps much at all. The 1650 rpm fans would work very well with this kit and later if you get a fan controller you can undervolt the fans when your pc is not under load to keep the noise down. You dont need to run a shroud but it helps a little if you can fit it in your case. LINK this would be all you need with some distilled water for coolant. And later on if you want to put a videocard in the loop the rad and pump will handle it just fine. Here is a review on the pump and what it could handle LINK . Sorry no input on your case


----------



## SandShark

Martin also did a recent test on Push/Pull fan setups and shrouds - which you may want to read. Basically his findings were:
Quote:


> Shroud benefits are very much radiator specific. While the MCR120 shows only very minor benefits in pull condition which are nearly immeasurable, the RS120 shows very dramatic benefits of 1C in pull condition. My first round of shroud testing only tested on one radiator with two fans and found gains on both. That test appears to still be good, however this round in testing a different radiator it has become clear that the benefits can not be generalized across all radiators and that shrouds on some radiators in the right conditions can even hurt performance. The MCR120 was generally a better performer in push condition without shrouds.
> 
> About the only generalization is that *push/pull is still your best bet* if cost is not a problem and that will hold true for all radiators.


I also have seen no benefit from shrouds and no longer use them. I do prefer push/pull fan setups as well.

Regarding the YL fans; I have both, and the High Speed ones are very loud, so I turn them down with a fan controller (my NZXT Phantom has it built in). Whereas the Medium's have very low sound. The difference between the High Speed and Medium Speed air movement vs temps on my rads is about 1-3C. So I prefer the Medium speed. The slimmer 20mm fans are ok, but don't push nearly as much air as the 25mm version. I'd rather find a way to fit the 25mm fans than the 20mm, but if you can't then they're better than no fan at all.

Just an analogy based on _my_ usage.


----------



## DraXxus1549

I put my fans to push and my temps are ~55C load. I also noticed that my pump is making a rattling sound, just like this video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EdWVtMAMis

Should I RMA my pump/res or just deal with it?


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DraXxus1549*
> 
> I put my fans to push and my temps are ~55C load. I also noticed that my pump is making a rattling sound, just like this video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EdWVtMAMis
> Should I RMA my pump/res or just deal with it?


my pump sounded like that at first but a few days later it was gone idk how long you have had it but if you recently got it i would just give it a few days/shakes.


----------



## DraXxus1549

Thanks, I have only had it for 3 days I'll give it a little longer before I panic


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> 1. The stock barbs are 1/2 OD and the tubing is 7/16 id so it makes a very tight seal. As you will find when you go to put it on
> 2. If you plan out your loop than yes you should have the left over to make a drain. I would tell you that the tubing that comes with the kit discolors very quick
> 3. The xspc fans that come with the kit work good on a rx rad but if you would like something else you might try THESE Yate Loon fans


How do you feel about the 2200rpm fans and use a fan controller? Ive heard mixed reviews on under volting them. I know push / pull is only an extra 1 -3C but I will have the room for it in my new case so why not make use of it









Again Hog, always helpful thank you


----------



## Los Hog

If thats the way you want to go I say go far it







it should work


----------



## crazynuts16

OK about to place order for these then :

4 x YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12 - Medium Speed 1650rpm 70.5cfm 33dba
1 x XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 CPU watercooling kit
7 x PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD
1 x 12" Antimicrobial Silver Strip

Total = 195.26 w/shipping

Anything else you guys recommend? barbs etc? i assume enough come with the kit.

Decided not to use shrouds since i doubt i'll have space for them

I hope that the fans i selected do not run too loud.

Are there any fan controllers you recommend? I usually prefer to have all of them be controlled by the computer but it doesn't seem like i can put all 4 fans into the motherboard.

Will wait for replies till tonight and then place order. Thanks!


----------



## Killer7

Gonna order one with my new case to see how well this CPU holds out overclocked even more until Ivy Bridge comes out (if it's worth it)


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazynuts16*
> 
> OK about to place order for these then :
> 4 x YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12 - Medium Speed 1650rpm 70.5cfm 33dba
> 1 x XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 CPU watercooling kit
> 7 x PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD
> 1 x 12" Antimicrobial Silver Strip
> Total = 195.26 w/shipping
> Anything else you guys recommend? barbs etc? i assume enough come with the kit.
> Decided not to use shrouds since i doubt i'll have space for them
> I hope that the fans i selected do not run too loud.
> Are there any fan controllers you recommend? I usually prefer to have all of them be controlled by the computer but it doesn't seem like i can put all 4 fans into the motherboard.
> Will wait for replies till tonight and then place order. Thanks!


Check this fan controller out. 6 channel 30w each, plus has PWM control. Best bang for the buck. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995075

Edit: For fans, if you want quiet and powerful, hands down GT AP-15's. With this fan controller you can't go wrong.


----------



## savagepagan

Which shroud should I get for my RX360? Do the yate loons perform better than the gentle typhoon spinning at the same rpm? I just ordered the ap-15 but I did not know the yate loons were so cheap. would you buy the loons or typhoons?
And where can I find the hardware to mount the radiator on the outside of my case?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pirates712*
> 
> 
> Finally got the new pump (silent!) and replaced the clear tubing while I was at it.


That looks great! The colors are awesome and really well-balanced.


----------



## dVeLoPe

anyone know if the ex360 is the same as the rx360 performance wise jsut slim =-(


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> anyone know if the ex360 is the same as the rx360 performance wise jsut slim =-(


It is close, BUT not as good as the RX. The EX like the RS needs higher speed fans. so it would be louder also. There are a few reviews around.


----------



## dVeLoPe

well what is the diff liek 1-2c?? its a 50$ price differnce...


----------



## savagepagan

Cheap shrouds.
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p11095_Phoba-Shround---Entkopplung-120mm--7mm-stark----3er-Set.html


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> anyone know if the ex360 is the same as the rx360 performance wise jsut slim =-(


I've been looking at all the reviews I could find and as jeffblute mentioned, it is very close. The RX definitely wins until about 1200-1500 RPM and with fan speeds higher than that, the EX starts to get better temps. If you're on a budget, I would stick with the EX as it is about 2-3°C behind the RX at lower fan speeds and it beats the RX at the higher fan speeds. It really just depends on what fans you choose to use.

I'm choosing to get the EX360 since I'll be getting those 2150RPM GTs from the group buy and it's around $53 in a local shop versus $86 for the RX. Though I'm really trying to get them to swap out their RS360 from the Rasa kit with an EX360 rad as it's only a $3 difference.


----------



## savagepagan

Interesting Triple Radiator Roundup. Some of you may have already seen this but it does pit the rx360 against the ex360 at diff fan speeds. XSPC RX 360 takes top place, but in dominating fashion.
Bundymania User Review

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157540
and
http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=1401&page=6


----------



## savagepagan

Tell me. What is the best affordable case for a 360mm double thick radiator?


----------



## Los Hog

Coolermaster HAF X


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Tell me. What is the best affordable case for a 360mm double thick radiator?


Haf 932


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Which shroud should I get for my RX360? Do the yate loons perform better than the gentle typhoon spinning at the same rpm? I just ordered the ap-15 but I did not know the yate loons were so cheap. would you buy the loons or typhoons?
> And where can I find the hardware to mount the radiator on the outside of my case?


The kit includes some o-rings and brackets for an external mount. The brackets adapt from either 80mm to 120mm screw pattern or from 120mm to 140mm. Local hardware store should have anything else you may need. The screws are #6 - 32, so measure closely for the length as you don't want to have the screws too long or they will damage the rad. If cutting screws is not something you can do than investigate some washers to act as spacers. Most good wire stripping pliers have small screw cutting capabilities which makes it real easy to get the length perfect. Might want a few extra screws to save a trip back to the store just in case.

Here's a pic of my previous case with a rear external mount. Look close at the rad mounts and maybe you'll see what the fan size adapting is for. It allows use of an existing 120mm internal exhaust case fan if your case has unused 80mm holes for the rear exhaust like this NZXT M59 does. O-rings go between the mounts and back side of your case for anti-vibration. If your case does NOT have holes for tubing to enter/exit case while you're at the hardware store pick up a "Step Drill". You'll want one that will make a 1 " and smaller hole. Tubing is 5/8" so you'll want a couple rubber grommets with a 5/8" ID and I believe the OD is 7/8". Ask a sales man if you not sure what a step drill is. Big holes through sheet metal cases is a breeze using a step drill. I made new tubing holes in this M59 as I wanted them straight inline with barbs from radiator.


----------



## Newbie2009

LOL All this shiney cable management. My case looks like a bomb went off inside it.


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazynuts16*
> 
> OK about to place order for these then :
> 4 x YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12 - Medium Speed 1650rpm 70.5cfm 33dba
> 1 x XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 CPU watercooling kit
> 7 x PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD
> 1 x 12" Antimicrobial Silver Strip
> Total = 195.26 w/shipping
> Anything else you guys recommend? barbs etc? i assume enough come with the kit.
> Decided not to use shrouds since i doubt i'll have space for them
> I hope that the fans i selected do not run too loud.
> Are there any fan controllers you recommend? I usually prefer to have all of them be controlled by the computer but it doesn't seem like i can put all 4 fans into the motherboard.
> Will wait for replies till tonight and then place order. Thanks!


The barbs in this kit while okay, they cant compare to Danger Den Fat Boys


----------



## jeffblute

Ok taxes will be coming back soon and this is what I am looking to start off with for the water cooling end of things. I would like to get a full coverage block BUT I don't see the point if I upgrade my gpu sometime this year (hopefully). Anybody see anything I am missing or ?


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> Ok taxes will be coming back soon and this is what I am looking to start off with for the water cooling end of things. I would like to get a full coverage block BUT I don't see the point if I upgrade my gpu sometime this year (hopefully). Anybody see anything I am missing or ?


Hey Jeff,

I'd swap out the High Speed Yates for the Mediums (D12SM-12). The High Speeds are VERY LOUD. Even with the fan controller you'll find you need to lower them to less than half speed to keep them quiet. Plus at 2150rpm they're total overkill for a RX360 radiator, which is designed for lower speed fans. The Medium speed Yates are rated at 1650rpm, which is MORE than enough to cool the RX360, and they're much quieter - I noticed a big sound difference between the highs amd mediums. You can even turn the mediums down and still have enough air to cool the RX360. Just a suggestion from someone who has both.

Looks like fun stuff!

Cheers, -SS


----------



## Los Hog

Better yet find yourself some Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpm


----------



## jeffblute

Thanks Guys. Dropped the High speed fans and gonna run with the mediums. Saved myself 30 bucks, with the Switch 810 I should be able to hide all the cables and wont need them sleeved, so that's 30 dollars I can put somewhere else.


----------



## Los Hog

Cool deal post some pics for us


----------



## jeffblute

... frozencpu and jabtech are both out of the RX 360 now..... : (

(EDIT) Well guess I can go through Performance pc..


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Better yet find yourself some Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpm


Or even the 1100RPM ones. I bet there's barely any difference in temperatures between the 1850s and the 1100s on an RX rad.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd*
> 
> Or even the 1100RPM ones. I bet there's barely any difference in temperatures between the 1850s and the 1100s on an RX rad.


Good point. If you're not using a fan controller, Boyboyd's right ^


----------



## jeffblute

I plan on buying a fan controller anyways so the little extra pip will be there if for some odd reason I ever need it. As for getting any Vram heatsinks I found a picture over at hardforum.com










Second heatsink for the ram? maybe I can just use that for cooling them


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> ... frozencpu and jabtech are both out of the RX 360 now..... : (
> (EDIT) Well guess I can go through Performance pc..


I got mine from Sidewindercomputers though I would replace the cheap tubing that comes with it. Jabtech has a good price on their PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing for $1.60 per foot.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsra750rxwak1.html

http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I got mine from Sidewindercomputers though I would replace the cheap tubing that comes with it. Jabtech has a good price on their PrimoFlex Pro LRT tubing for $1.60 per foot.
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsra750rxwak1.html
> http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html


Yeah i think I am gonna go with black Promochill tubing. That with white fittings (in the future) will look clean


----------



## DraXxus1549

My new RS240 kit.


----------



## Los Hog

Thats a nice looking loop ! Good job bro


----------



## DraXxus1549

Thanks! I'm so happy with how it came out.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Very nice job on your rig DraXxus


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DraXxus1549*
> 
> My new RS240 kit.


Nice job. Are you going to include the gpu in the loop?


----------



## wagass

I just ordered a rx360 kit from http://www.svc.com/r750rx360.html . They had the cheapest kit/shipping that I have saw. I also have used svc.com in the past and had no issue. I double checked at resellerratings.com and it was enough for me to order through them. I looked at a few other links that xspc had as resellers and looked them up on reseller ratings, some were not good.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wagass*
> 
> I just ordered a rx360 kit from http://www.svc.com/r750rx360.html . They had the cheapest kit/shipping that I have saw. I also have used svc.com in the past and had no issue. I double checked at resellerratings.com and it was enough for me to order through them. I looked at a few other links that xspc had as resellers and looked them up on reseller ratings, some were not good.


Great stuff, your gonna love that kit! Don't forget to upload some photos of your rig when your done


----------



## DraXxus1549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Nice job. Are you going to include the gpu in the loop?


Probably not, I just don't see the point in dropping $100 a piece on waterblocks for $250 cards. If I upgrade in the future to a 680/780 I will most definitely put a block on it.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wagass*
> 
> I just ordered a rx360 kit from http://www.svc.com/r750rx360.html . They had the cheapest kit/shipping that I have saw. I also have used svc.com in the past and had no issue. I double checked at resellerratings.com and it was enough for me to order through them. I looked at a few other links that xspc had as resellers and looked them up on reseller ratings, some were not good.


That is a great price.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wagass*
> 
> I just ordered a rx360 kit from http://www.svc.com/r750rx360.html . They had the cheapest kit/shipping that I have saw. I also have used svc.com in the past and had no issue. I double checked at resellerratings.com and it was enough for me to order through them. I looked at a few other links that xspc had as resellers and looked them up on reseller ratings, some were not good.


SVC is a good company. They are located just a couple of miles from me and I've gotten a few things from them before. They are in the middle of moving locations right now, so shipment may not be as fast as usual. I'm trying to get a RS 360 kit from them but swapping out to the EX rad. I haven't had any replies yet, but there's only one guy handling the emails right now because of the moving, so I'm hoping to get an answer soon. Anyway, enjoy the kit and make sure to post pictures!


----------



## wagass

It already shipped, ordered it on Friday in the morning and shipped the same day! Will be here Thursday, but i get the computer parts on Tuesday. Will probably set it up over the weekend.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wagass*
> 
> It already shipped, ordered it on Friday in the morning and shipped the same day! Will be here Thursday, but i get the computer parts on Tuesday. Will probably set it up over the weekend.


Well that's great! I'll probably go ahead and buy their EX360 rad tonight and pick it up tomorrow.


----------



## Ahzanti

Would a 1/2" id 5/8" od compression fitting work with 7/16" id 5/8" od tubbing??


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> Would a 1/2" id 5/8" od compression fitting work with 7/16" id 5/8" od tubbing??


Probably not, although I can't imagine why. Compression fittings work by "squeezing" the outside of the tube onto the barb. Since it's the same OD, theoretically, there shouldn't be a problem.

Personally, I would just go with 1/2" tube.


----------



## chinesethunda

how often do you guys change the water? mines been in there for a little while now


----------



## Kokin

Is Masterkleer still a good brand of tubing nowadays? I'm looking for cheaper tubing to start my first loop with and I will move on to Primochill or something better after a few weeks or a month. I don't even mind if it gets cloudly like the stock XSPC tubing, as I just want something cheap to get my loop jump started. Could I even possibly get tubing from places like Home Depot?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> how often do you guys change the water? mines been in there for a little while now


From what I see is recommended, people say every 3 months to 6 months, with a minimum of once a year. Pretty much each time you do a cleaning. There have been people who have kept their water for over a year or even two years though, but I wouldn't follow that.


----------



## Ahzanti

I have heard 3,6 or a year as well. From what I have read it also depends on how icky the water looks/smells. Oh and if you have dye in your loop you will need to take apart the blocks and clean them as well. Also do not forget to use distilled water to flush it out before you put your loop back together.


----------



## chinesethunda

so, drain it, and then put water in it once and let it do a loop and then drain it again? and then fill it back up?

Also, side question, I have some loud fans on my rs360 atm and the gt ap15s are in stock again, should I just get 3 of them and just to push, or should I get 5 and do push/pull with 2 of them? (my phantom will only let me do 2 pull fans)

Since I did some testing with tower coolers that push pull don't actually help that much, maybe a few degrees, im assuming rads are roughly the same idea?


----------



## Los Hog

A push/pull will help a RS rad :thumb :and I change the water clean the blocks and res, flush out the rad and change the tubing ( It gets hard and discolored over time) every year


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> Also, side question, I have some loud fans on my rs360 atm and the gt ap15s are in stock again, should I just get 3 of them and just to push, or should I get 5 and do push/pull with 2 of them? (my phantom will only let me do 2 pull fans)


I think you'll find the AP-15's perform just fine in a push or pull setup.


----------



## Pott

Quick question guys, and keep in mind I've never used watercooling nor have much of a use-case for doing so but...:

Would an RX120 kit be much quieter than a Silver Arrow (or Hyper 212 + I currently have, for that matter) or a Corsair H80?
I'm trying ti make my Fractal R3 rig as quiet as possible and if this is the missing link then I'm fine building myself a quick loop. Unfortunately the RX120 kit is much more expensive than a Corsair H80, and has more components...

My 2500k is overclocked to 4.4Ghz, no voltage tweaks.

Thanks!


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pott*
> 
> Quick question guys, and keep in mind I've never used watercooling nor have much of a use-case for doing so but...:
> Would an RX120 kit be much quieter than a Silver Arrow (or Hyper 212 + I currently have, for that matter) or a Corsair H80?
> I'm trying ti make my Fractal R3 rig as quiet as possible and if this is the missing link then I'm fine building myself a quick loop. Unfortunately the RX120 kit is much more expensive than a Corsair H80, and has more components...
> My 2500k is overclocked to 4.4Ghz, no voltage tweaks.
> Thanks!


Well the RX line of rads are designed for good performance at low RPM so I would have thought so, 1000RPM fans should be nice and quiet.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pott*
> 
> Quick question guys, and keep in mind I've never used watercooling nor have much of a use-case for doing so but...:
> Would an RX120 kit be much quieter than a Silver Arrow (or Hyper 212 + I currently have, for that matter) or a Corsair H80?
> I'm trying ti make my Fractal R3 rig as quiet as possible and if this is the missing link then I'm fine building myself a quick loop. Unfortunately the RX120 kit is much more expensive than a Corsair H80, and has more components...
> My 2500k is overclocked to 4.4Ghz, no voltage tweaks.
> Thanks!


The RX120 is a step up from the H80, but it may not do that well as it's still a 120mm rad and the 2500K can run pretty hot. The good part is that you can always build up from what you have once you start a watercooling loop, so if you're not satisfied with the RX120, you could always get another 120mm rad or even a 240mm rad. The only problem might be the costliness, but this is OCN after all.


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Probably not, although I can't imagine why. Compression fittings work by "squeezing" the outside of the tube onto the barb. Since it's the same OD, theoretically, there shouldn't be a problem.
> Personally, I would just go with 1/2" tube.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> Would a 1/2" id 5/8" od compression fitting work with 7/16" id 5/8" od tubbing??


Problem is the OD will only be 5/8th if the ID does not change. If you are stretching the ID to 1/2 it will push the OD out by the same interval maybe a bit less. No real reason to do 7/16 over 1/2 inch on compression so i woudl not risk it.


----------



## savagepagan

Nice case for a top mounted 360mm double thick rad. NZXT Switch 810. In black and white. I may seriously buy this. Click through the pix and it will show a 360mm double thick rad mounted on top. It looks to be a close fit if your mobo has tall heat sinks around the cpu. I bet that rad can be mount outside the case on top. The black one makes my haf 932 look like crap though the 932 may have a bit more space above the mobo.

http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/crafted_series/switch_810

About $163 online.


----------



## jeffblute

You can fit 25 mm thick fans on the TOP side of the case (no rad or anything else) and underneath you have about 90 mm of clearance. They have confirmed that 360 or 420 rads will fit internally.

I just got my switch today, getting the rest sometime tomorrow, going to be a busy day


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> You can fit 25 mm thick fans on the TOP side of the case (no rad or anything else) and underneath you have about 90 mm of clearance. They have confirmed that 360 or 420 rads will fit internally.
> I just got my switch today, getting the rest sometime tomorrow, going to be a busy day


Yes, but is it the 360mm dbl thick rads?
Can you snap some pix of your case and where did you get your case and for how much? Is it white or the black one? How much room is inside of it really?


----------



## jeffblute

I picked up the white switch 810 and will be moving my rig in it sometime tomorrow when my rx 360 kit (and spare parts) arrive.
As for the cost with *3 day* UPS shipping from Newegg to Wisconsin it was *$184.98*

As for size, here is my current rig next to this case. Storm Scout









Compared to Btwalter's Phantom


And here is the rig from CES 2012, WITH a 65 mm rad in push pull in the top, you can find the videos on youtube (2012 switch 810)


----------



## Killer7

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> I picked up the white switch 810 and will be moving my rig in it sometime tomorrow when my rx 360 kit (and spare parts) arrive.
> As for the cost with *3 day* UPS shipping from Newegg to Wisconsin it was *$184.98*
> As for size, here is my current rig next to this case. Storm Scout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compared to Btwalter's Phantom
> 
> And here is the rig from CES 2012, WITH a 65 mm rad in push pull in the top, you can find the videos on youtube (2012 switch 810)






That looks pretty sweet, I've been debating getting that case when I have the budget for it and an RS360, I guess I'll definitely do it now! thanks for the pics


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killer7*
> 
> That looks pretty sweet, I've been debating getting that case when I have the budget for it and an RS360, I guess I'll definitely do it now! thanks for the pics


Just get an EX360 instead, it's close to RX performance at higher fan speeds and does much better than RS at low RPM.


----------



## savagepagan

I spoke tooooo soon. Just found my dream case. The Xigmatek Elysium Black CCC-HSA0DS-U01 It will fit a 360mm rad up top and in the front after the hard drive cages are removed because it is sooo huge. Watch the new egg review vid.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811815011


----------



## Los Hog

That is a very nice case


----------



## jebusv20

Add me to your list









SIG RIG


----------



## savagepagan

These fans might be good for rad cooling. Cougars.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002


----------



## selluminis

Quick question(s)

I have the rs 240 currently on my cpu along with the 750 rasa kit. I just ordered the EX360. I am going to be adding a gpu to the mix. Going to use the 240 for the gpu and the 360 for the cpu.

Does it matter if I go this route for the loop?

pump/res-->240in-->gpu-->360-->cpu -->res return

I guess I just need to know if it is going to matter if the CPU is in the loop first or not. I do not see why it would matter as the water will go through the rad first either way. This is just going to be the best routing for the way my case will be set up with a few modifications.

Using all other hardware listed in my sig. Only change is the addition of the EX360 and the modification of the case.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I spoke tooooo soon. Just found my dream case. The Xigmatek Elysium Black CCC-HSA0DS-U01 It will fit a 360mm rad up top and in the front after the hard drive cages are removed because it is sooo huge. Watch the new egg review vid.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811815011


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> That is a very nice case


I can vouch for this case. It is a nice case. Air flow is just unreal. Almost went with a 800D, but so glad I Googled this case and watched a 20-30 minute video review which shows all the features.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I can vouch for this case. It is a nice case. Air flow is just unreal. Almost went with a 800D, but so glad I Googled this case and watched a 20-30 minute video review which shows all the features.


Have you or will change out the stock Xigmatec fans that cam with the case?
Thanks for verifying that I bought a great case.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Quick question(s)
> I have the rs 240 currently on my cpu along with the 750 rasa kit. I just ordered the EX360. I am going to be adding a gpu to the mix. Going to use the 240 for the gpu and the 360 for the cpu.
> Does it matter if I go this route for the loop?
> pump/res-->240in-->gpu-->360-->cpu -->res return
> I guess I just need to know if it is going to matter if the CPU is in the loop first or not. I do not see why it would matter as the water will go through the rad first either way. This is just going to be the best routing for the way my case will be set up with a few modifications.
> Using all other hardware listed in my sig. Only change is the addition of the EX360 and the modification of the case.


That's how you'd normally setup the loop but loop order doesn't matter at all.

Any reason for having the GPU first?

I'm currently rockin' this setup and it's taming the heat flawlessly.

Pump/Res > RS240 > 2600K > GTX470 > GTX 470 > RX240 > Pump/Res

You should be good man, you could definitely pull off a SLI setup and not have to get anymore rad.









Edit - Count me in for the club! See "Classified" rig in my sig for old pictures, and I'll post up the new loop and pics.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> That's how you'd normally setup the loop but loop order doesn't matter at all.
> Any reason for having the GPU first?
> I'm currently rockin' this setup and it's taming the heat flawlessly.
> Pump/Res > RS240 > 2600K > GTX470 > GTX 470 > RX240 > Pump/Res
> You should be good man, you could definitely pull off a SLI setup and not have to get anymore rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - Count me in for the club! See "Classified" rig in my sig for old pictures, and I'll post up the new loop and pics.


System looks great and I am about to mod my case just like yours. I.E. removing the extra HDD cages. But wouldn't it be better to go from the cpu into another rad before going into the gpu?

Wait, or does it not really matter as long as the water is cool before getting back to the first part of the loop????


----------



## The Sandman

Savagepagan

I haven't found any reason to replace or upgrade the stock case fans and I'm one to do just that first thing. They do have white led's but they're not an issue to me. This case keeps my setup cooler than when I had the same setup/OC in a NZXT M59 with a rear external mount for rad. That case had none of the stock fans in it. I even have two extra GT AP-15's still in the box but can't see a reason to put them in this case lol.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> System looks great and I am about to mod my case just like yours. I.E. removing the extra HDD cages. But wouldn't it be better to go from the cpu into another rad before going into the gpu?
> Wait, or does it not really matter as long as the water is cool before getting back to the first part of the loop????


Thanks, and nice, make sure you post pics!









And it's not any better or worse. Some will argue that it is better, but if you're one to complain about a 1-2C difference, then yeah, it matters.

It doesn't actually matter, if you look at my loop, I've got all 3 components right after another and I'm achieving these kind of temps.

2600K - 30*C Idle - 50*C Load // 60*C Load (Gaming // Prime95)
GTX470 1 - 29*C Idle - 45*C Load // 50-55*C Load (Gaming // FurMark)
GTX470 2 - 29*C Idle - 45*C Load // 50-55*C Load (Gaming // FurMark)

I was in the same position as you a few weeks ago, and trust me, loop order doesn't really matter man. Not to mention I'm running a 4.8Ghz overclock on my CPU, and my GPUs are overclocked to 1075/825/1650/1700.

My 470's are power hungry heat producing monsters and I'm still getting amazing temps throughout my loop even with everything like it is. So just go with whatever looks cleaner/better to you!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Savagepagan
> I haven't found any reason to replace or upgrade the stock case fans and I'm one to do just that first thing. They do have white led's but they're not an issue to me. This case keeps my setup cooler than when I had the same setup/OC in a NZXT M59 with a rear external mount for rad. That case had none of the stock fans in it. I even have two extra GT AP-15's still in the box but can't see a reason to put them in this case lol.


Wanna get rid of them fans? Shoot me a PM


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Thanks, and nice, make sure you post pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it's not any better or worse. Some will argue that it is better, but if you're one to complain about a 1-2C difference, then yeah, it matters.
> It doesn't actually matter, if you look at my loop, I've got all 3 components right after another and I'm achieving these kind of temps.
> 2600K - 30*C Idle - 50*C Load // 60*C Load (Gaming // Prime95)
> GTX470 1 - 29*C Idle - 45*C Load // 50-55*C Load (Gaming // FurMark)
> GTX470 2 - 29*C Idle - 45*C Load // 50-55*C Load (Gaming // FurMark)
> I was in the same position as you a few weeks ago, and trust me, loop order doesn't really matter man. Not to mention I'm running a 4.8Ghz overclock on my CPU, and my GPUs are overclocked to 1075/825/1650/1700.
> My 470's are power hungry heat producing monsters and I'm still getting amazing temps throughout my loop even with everything like it is. So just go with whatever looks cleaner/better to you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanna get rid of them fans? Shoot me a PM


Right on. I think I realized that when I asked the question. What we are doing is moving the heat away with the water. The temp of the water really should not affect it as long as it is kept in check at some point along the line. I think I am starting to figure this out.

Really nervous about this case mod. First time doing anything like this. Nice temps. I will be running at 4.8 on the cpu and hoping to get 950/1900/2100 on the gpu. I am expecting the same temps you listed. That really makes the loop simple then.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Right on. I think I realized that when I asked the question. What we are doing is moving the heat away with the water. The temp of the water really should not affect it as long as it is kept in check at some point along the line. I think I am starting to figure this out.
> Really nervous about this case mod. First time doing anything like this. Nice temps. I will be running at 4.8 on the cpu and hoping to get 950/1900/2100 on the gpu. I am expecting the same temps you listed. That really makes the loop simple then.


Just take your time and make sure everything right before you go cutting, etc..

Now, don't expect exact temperatures. It depends on your ambient temperature and you should get "better" temperatures due to only having 1 GPU and your CPU. As where I'm running 2 power hungry heat monsters and a CPU. So therefore you'll have room to add another 560 for SLI and still have good temps. But yours should be lower seeing as you don't have as many components hooked up as I do.

Just take your time, enjoy doing it, make sure everything is right and double check everything then post pics once you're done.









Edit - And get some nice fans for that EX rad!


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Savagepagan
> 
> I haven't found any reason to replace or upgrade the stock case fans and I'm one to do just that first thing. They do have white led's but they're not an issue to me. This case keeps my setup cooler than when I had the same setup/OC in a NZXT M59 with a rear external mount for rad. That case had none of the stock fans in it. I even have two extra GT AP-15's still in the box but can't see a reason to put them in this case lol.


Naw just send them to me Sandman I will "store" them for you


----------



## dougshell

just curious,

for you guys that are cutting out the HDD cages, are you all using NAS or something similar to house your data elsewhere.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougshell*
> 
> just curious,
> for you guys that are cutting out the HDD cages, are you all using NAS or something similar to house your data elsewhere.


Nope. I mounted my SSD to my on the backside of my case and my 1TB drive will either be mounted there as well or I'll just put it up above my DVD drive. Well, that's what I did/am doing. I don't know about everyone else..


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Naw just send them to me Sandman I will "store" them for you


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougshell*
> 
> just curious,
> for you guys that are cutting out the HDD cages, are you all using NAS or something similar to house your data elsewhere.


I am only going to cut half of my cage out. That will leave 3 bays. I only have 2 internal drives now. Plus I can mount drive up in the 5.25 area as well. You can really mount you drives anywhere there is room.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Quick question(s)
> I have the rs 240 currently on my cpu along with the 750 rasa kit. I just ordered the EX360. I am going to be adding a gpu to the mix. Going to use the 240 for the gpu and the 360 for the cpu.
> Does it matter if I go this route for the loop?
> pump/res-->240in-->gpu-->360-->cpu -->res return
> I guess I just need to know if it is going to matter if the CPU is in the loop first or not. I do not see why it would matter as the water will go through the rad first either way. This is just going to be the best routing for the way my case will be set up with a few modifications.
> Using all other hardware listed in my sig. Only change is the addition of the EX360 and the modification of the case.


As long as you don't get air bubbles in any of your blocks, loop order shouldn't matter except for Res before Pump (in your case res/pump). I'm planning on using a single EX360 for my 2x 5870s and adding a Rasa CPU block (and probably a 120mm rad) into the loop once I sell my H50.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> As long as you don't get air bubbles in any of your blocks, loop order shouldn't matter except for Res before Pump (in your case res/pump). I'm planning on using a single EX360 for my 2x 5870s and adding a Rasa CPU block (and probably a 120mm rad) into the loop once I sell my H50.


The res and pump are 1 unit in this case. Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> The res and pump are 1 unit in this case. Sorry for the confusion.


No confusion at all, hence why I said, "(in your case res/pump)". It shouldn't matter what order your loop is since you have the pump/res combo, go for what looks the best or uses the least amount of tubing.

I just got the same pump/res as you guys and I'm hoping to get my XSPC GPU waterblocks in the mail tomorrow. I'll probably buy some tubing and my rad in the next week and get started on my GPU loop.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> No confusion at all, hence why I said, "(in your case res/pump)". It shouldn't matter what order your loop is since you have the pump/res combo, go for what looks the best or uses the least amount of tubing.
> I just got the same pump/res as you guys and I'm hoping to get my XSPC GPU waterblocks in the mail tomorrow. I'll probably buy some tubing and my rad in the next week and get started on my GPU loop.


wanted the xspc gpu block, but found a dd block on sale here and could not pass it up. 40 bucks for a 119 dollar block. should get here tomorrow or monday.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> wanted the xspc gpu block, but found a dd block on sale here and could not pass it up. 40 bucks for a 119 dollar block. should get here tomorrow or monday.


Wow great deal! I got 2x XSPC GPU blocks for $70 from here, so I'm happy as well.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Yes, but is it the 360mm dbl thick rads?
> Can you snap some pix of your case and where did you get your case and for how much? Is it white or the black one? How much room is inside of it really?












It fits, Tight, but it fits









Oh by the way, You guys should add me


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Wow great deal! I got 2x XSPC GPU blocks for $70 from here, so I'm happy as well.


Got here today. Needs a little cleaning up, but hell of a deal.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Got here today. Needs a little cleaning up, but hell of a deal.


Same for me, I'd love to hear any solutions on cleaning it up from members here. Please see my thread for pictures.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1213850/ugh-super-dirty-water-blocks-whats-the-solution-56k-warning


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Got here today. Needs a little cleaning up, but hell of a deal.


Let's see some pictures! Also, once you get everything up and running, definitely want to see what you've got in mind for that case of yours.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Same for me, I'd love to hear any solutions on cleaning it up from members here. Please see my thread for pictures.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1213850/ugh-super-dirty-water-blocks-whats-the-solution-56k-warning


Ouch. Definitely not digging the colors of those barbs or blocks. Those do NOT look like they're in "like new" condition either. Not a big fan of universal blocks anyway cause you can't fully cool the VRMs and such.









However, the people that have already posted in your thread, you're in good hands. Hog is a good guy and has helped me countless of times and pointed me in the right direction. Life safer, really.









We'll be expecting pictures and such as far as your new build goes.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Let's see some pictures! Also, once you get everything up and running, definitely want to see what you've got in mind for that case of yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ouch. Definitely not digging the colors of those barbs or blocks. Those do NOT look like they're in "like new" condition either. Not a big fan of universal blocks anyway cause you can't fully cool the VRMs and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, the people that have already posted in your thread, you're in good hands. Hog is a good guy and has helped me countless of times and pointed me in the right direction. Life safer, really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll be expecting pictures and such as far as your new build goes.


The barbs are pretty clean now, but I'll have to try and see how to clean the copper blocks off. I'll definitely take more pictures as I get all my watercooling parts together and post a build log. Thanks for your support!


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The barbs are pretty clean now, but I'll have to try and see how to clean the copper blocks off. I'll definitely take more pictures as I get all my watercooling parts together and post a build log. Thanks for your support!


Good deal. Goodluck man, and remember, have fun with it!









And you're welcome, makes me wish I had this kind of support for my build..


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fits, Tight, but it fits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh by the way, You guys should add me


Nice. You should join this forums group for Switch 810 owners.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1209048/official-nzxt-switch-810-thread


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The barbs are pretty clean now, but I'll have to try and see how to clean the copper blocks off. I'll definitely take more pictures as I get all my watercooling parts together and post a build log. Thanks for your support!


My wife said something about using a baking soda paste to clean and polish up the copper. Going to try tonight.





Even if that does not work, for 40 bucks, I am not complaining.









Sorry about the phone pics. They are off of my Razr...


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> My wife said something about using a baking soda paste to clean and polish up the copper. Going to try tonight.
> Even if that does not work, for 40 bucks, I am not complaining.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the phone pics. They are off of my Razr...


A little vinegar will help too. I've heard mixing vinegar and salt works as well.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Nice. You should join this forums group for Switch 810 owners.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1209048/official-nzxt-switch-810-thread


already ahead of you


----------



## wagass

I got my RX360 kit on Thursday, cleaned it up with distilled water etc. Hooked it all up on the kitchen table to do a leak test for about 20 hours. I put it together last night with no issues really other than the instructions for the screws for the block were worded poorly, so i set it up with what i thought would be right. Went to home depot earlier today and got some more fan screws to see the difference in push/pull, although it will be a tight fit up there. Here are some pics:




Would you change the way the tubing is ran at all? or is that fine/good?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wagass*
> 
> Would you change the way the tubing is ran at all? or is that fine/good?


Looks good!









Personally, I think that the tube from the rad -> res/pump looks a little stretched. Maybe you can turn your rad around so that the ports are closer to the res?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wagass*
> 
> I got my RX360 kit on Thursday, cleaned it up with distilled water etc. Hooked it all up on the kitchen table to do a leak test for about 20 hours. I put it together last night with no issues really other than the instructions for the screws for the block were worded poorly, so i set it up with what i thought would be right. Went to home depot earlier today and got some more fan screws to see the difference in push/pull, although it will be a tight fit up there. Here are some pics:
> 
> 
> Would you change the way the tubing is ran at all? or is that fine/good?


Looks good man.

I would flip the rad around if you can though. Will give you a much cleaner look.

However, it looks good the way it is IMO so if it's good for you, don't change it.


----------



## wagass

Thanks for your input. I may give that a shot when I add my GPU to the loop. I also bought a tee line adapter from home depot for easy draining, but I figured i would keep it simple this time around as it was my first time doing this so didn't install it. Will probably just buy one made for water cooling, I think I saw that DangerDen makes one.

Water cooling is so much more interesting than just slapping a big old honky HSF on.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wagass*
> 
> Thanks for your input. I may give that a shot when I add my GPU to the loop. I also bought a tee line adapter from home depot for easy draining, but I figured i would keep it simple this time around as it was my first time doing this so didn't install it. Will probably just buy one made for water cooling, I think I saw that DangerDen makes one.
> Water cooling is so much more interesting than just slapping a big old honky HSF on.


No problem.









And yeah, it's definitely got more to it than air cooling. Just wait till you get your waterblock, or when you want bigger tubing, or different fittings. Then watch to money burn..


----------



## wagass

The tube isn't stretched stretched, I can move it up with my finger about 2 inches. But I do see what your saying.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wagass*
> 
> The tube isn't stretched stretched, I can move it up with my finger about 2 inches. But I do see what your saying.


Looks great. Flipping the rad around will save on the amount of tubing needed. I am waiting on my 360. Thanks for the ideas.


----------



## wseroyer

Just finished it up tonight.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Looks great. Flipping the rad around will save on the amount of tubing needed. I am waiting on my 360. Thanks for the ideas.


Thought you were getting the RX240? Switching to a 360 now, are we??








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> 
> Just finished it up tonight.


Looks good man! Got any plans to add some reference cards and waterblocks?


----------



## Mraaz

Hey guys i want to buy the xspc rasa 750 with the 360 rad but i do not now if it fits in my cm stormtrooper.
Who can help me out?


----------



## skitzab1

can i join i have 2 rasa 750 kits and 3 rads and custom mod cards













help me with a name


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mraaz*
> 
> Hey guys i want to buy the xspc rasa 750 with the 360 rad but i do not now if it fits in my cm stormtrooper.
> Who can help me out?


From what I see, it will only take a 240 in the top. People are mounting a 360 in the front, but then it takes up all the drive bays. You could mount externally...


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> 
> can i join i have 2 rasa 750 kits and 3 rads and custom mod cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> help me with a name


Beautiful. "Cool Blue"?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Thought you were getting the RX240? Switching to a 360 now, are we??


Yeah, but I got an EX360 for 56.00 brand new. My case will fit it in the top. Going to take out some of the HDD cage and mount my 240 in the bottom. Gives me more head room for future add on cooling. I.E. chipset, mosfet regs, etc.


----------



## Mraaz

Selluminis is that the 360 in you case ?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mraaz*
> 
> Selluminis is that the 360 in you case ?


Not yet. I have the 240 mounted to the back right now.


----------



## Mraaz

So if you mount the 360 do you need to mod the entire case?


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mraaz*
> 
> Hey guys i want to buy the xspc rasa 750 with the 360 rad but i do not now if it fits in my cm stormtrooper.
> Who can help me out?


i have a 360mm in the roof of my trooper just a little cutting


----------



## Mraaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> i have a 360mm in the roof of my trooper just a little cutting


Cutting what and where


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Yeah, but I got an EX360 for 56.00 brand new. My case will fit it in the top. Going to take out some of the HDD cage and mount my 240 in the bottom. Gives me more head room for future add on cooling. I.E. chipset, mosfet regs, etc.


Good thinking. Smart man


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mraaz*
> 
> Cutting what and where




for now i have just cut from the fan cutout to the cable ( usp/power button) cutout


----------



## Mraaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> 
> for now i have just cut from the fan cutout to the cable ( usp/power button) cutout


ahh oke thx! could you e-mail me more photo's to my e-mail adress?


----------



## DarkNation

was wondering will a 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD tubing with a 3/32" thick wall fit in a RX40.


----------



## kamikaze_

7/16" x 5/8" will fit on G1/4" threads no problem.


----------



## Kokin

Hmm.. I may not get the EX360 rad anymore nor use the XSPC 750 X20 pump/res as I just scored this today.







The only problem now is that the included CPU waterblock is not AMD-compatible, which makes me wonder if I should trade this for an AMD block or keep it for when I do upgrade to Intel... which may not be for a long time or for when I get a job again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> 
> Just finished it up tonight.


What tubing is that? I'm loving it a lot.


----------



## Droogie

How good are these kits? I'm gonna be buying a new case and I| want to go WC'ing. I'm a complete newb to it, though. Just wondering how far the 360 will take me, or if there is anything I should buy on top of it. Like maybe a better block or something.


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Thought you were getting the RX240? Switching to a 360 now, are we??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good man! Got any plans to add some reference cards and waterblocks?


This is going to sound nuts but this is my first ever PC build, never have done this before, I've had a bunch of dell computers and thought I'd give custom rigs a try. So I jumped right in with water cooling! at first I bought a H100 but the fan controller was busted so I returned it, and I desied that I wanted to do the real thing none of that puss pre made cool it! stuff , so far I've been happy with my decision I used Ek premixed, I figure it will be less of a mess down the road with corrosion. I have a MSI gtx 560 ti Twin frozer II from what I read its not a reference card so there are no full coverage blocks for it, I don't know anything really about how to do a universal GPU waterblock.


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hmm.. I may not get the EX360 rad anymore nor use the XSPC 750 X20 pump/res as I just scored this today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem now is that the included CPU waterblock is not AMD-compatible, which makes me wonder if I should trade this for an AMD block or keep it for when I do upgrade to Intel... which may not be for a long time or for when I get a job again.
> What tubing is that? I'm loving it a lot.


Its just the clear tubing that came with the kit, I used EK Ekooland UV BLUE premix, that's why it is blue.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> Its just the clear tubing that came with the kit, I used EK Ekooland UV BLUE premix, that's why it is blue.


Wow congrats on your first build and welcome to OCN!

Universal GPU blocks work just about the same as CPU blocks, except you need to buy heatsinks for your GPU VRAM and VRMs.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> 
> 
> can i join i have 2 rasa 750 kits and 3 rads and custom mod cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> help me with a name


Blue Thunder


----------



## Los Hog

Good name JAFO


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mraaz*
> 
> So if you mount the 360 do you need to mod the entire case?


No, the 932 advanced has room and correct mounting to support a 360 rad in the top. Should not have to mod anything there. Just when I put the 240 in the bottom.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> How good are these kits? I'm gonna be buying a new case and I| want to go WC'ing. I'm a complete newb to it, though. Just wondering how far the 360 will take me, or if there is anything I should buy on top of it. Like maybe a better block or something.


What version of the 360? RS will do good for a CPU only loop with some high RPM fans you could swing a GPU though. RX will serve it's purpose with a CPU+GPU possibly a second GPU with some nice air moving fans (Just varies on what kind of temps you're looking for. As for the stock XSPC block, I'm still using it, and still loving it.









It's a good block, just depends if you're wanting a different look I suppose.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> A little vinegar will help too. I've heard mixing vinegar and salt works as well.


Looks like that did the trick.



Again, crappy phone pic. I will break the camera out for the "rebuild" log.

+rep on that advice!


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Looks like that did the trick.
> 
> Again, crappy phone pic. I will break the camera out for the "rebuild" log.
> +rep on that advice!


Looks good man!









Can't wait to see what you do with your build. Definitely ready to see that 448 under water!


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Looks like that did the trick.
> 
> -snip-
> 
> Again, crappy phone pic. I will break the camera out for the "rebuild" log.
> +rep on that advice!


It helps to have an ex-military dad as a "professional" polisher.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> It helps to have an ex-military dad as a "professional" polisher.


Nice.


----------



## chinesethunda

would the rs360 be able to handle 2 460s and a 2500k oc'd to 4.5 ghz? my rs360 is keeping my 4.5ghz around 50~ with just the cpu

also, would the pump that comes with the rs360 kit be able to handle another 240 rad or no?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> would the rs360 be able to handle 2 460s and a 2500k oc'd to 4.5 ghz? my rs360 is keeping my 4.5ghz around 50~ with just the cpu
> also, would the pump that comes with the rs360 kit be able to handle another 240 rad or no?


Maybe, however you may be pushing it with just the 360. Adding the 240 would definitely help.

And yes, the pump will suffice. I currently has a RS240 and a RX240 running along with both my GPU blocks, and my CPU blocks running flawlessly.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> How good are these kits? I'm gonna be buying a new case and I| want to go WC'ing. I'm a complete newb to it, though. Just wondering how far the 360 will take me, or if there is anything I should buy on top of it. Like maybe a better block or something.
> 
> 
> 
> What version of the 360? RS will do good for a CPU only loop with some high RPM fans. RX will serve it's purpose with a CPU+GPU possibly a second GPU with some nice air moving fans. As for the stock XSPC block, I'm still using it, and still loving it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good block, just depends if you're wanting a different look I suppose.
Click to expand...

I disagree, the RS360 can handle a CPU and GPU, if you are running 2 gpu's you might be pushing it.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Maybe, however you may be pushing it with just the 360. Adding the 240 would definitely help.
> And yes, the pump will suffice. I currently has a RS240 and a RX240 running along with both my GPU blocks, and my CPU blocks running flawlessly.


That is good to know about the pump. I was wondering if it would take care of all of this water.

I think he should just try it and see what he gets. He will probably be okay.


----------



## crazynuts16

I need to get a fan controller as my fans are just a little bit too loud for me, its not a problem that needs to be dealt with immediately as they are not crazy loud but i would like to run them at just a little bit slower speeds when i am not doing heavy tasks.

NO CONTROLLERS FOR THE BAYS

Fan Specs: 4 x YateLoons -- Intake
Rated Voltage: 12 Volts
Operation Voltage: 6.5~13.8 Volts
Input current: 0.30 Amp Max
Operation temperature: -10 to +65 C
Storage temperature: -40 to +70 C
RPM: 1650 +/- 10%
CFM: 70.5
dB: 33
Corners Closed

2 x Stock fans from the xspc rasa rx240 kit, Used as exhaust
Rated Voltage: 12 Volts
Input current: 0.18 Amp Stated
RPM: 1650

Not much info about this fan as I can only find what's written on the fan. Personal observations are that this fan is just a little bit louder than the yate loons but also pushes a bit more air than the yate loon.

I saw some fan controllers on newegg that gave me the idea of splitting the fans and plugging them into the motherboard to provide pwm control. Is there anything that you would recommend that can do that?

I want the most hassle-free control through temperatures. The yate loons speed will also effect what my cpu temps are.

Would like something that can fit in the rear pci slots, have enough space there. Front bays are all full including hdd racks.

System Specs:

CPU - i7-2600k
Motherboard - Asus Z68 pro
Ram - Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb 1600 cas 9
HSF - Hyper 212 evo Corsair H80 XSPC Rasa RX240 Kit
HDD - Spinpoint 1tb HDD Hd103sj x2
SSD - Crucial M4 128gb
PSU - XFX PRO850W XXX Silver
GPU - Gigabyte 6850 OC
Case - Cooler Master Storm Scout

Thank you!!

Will post pics of the build after i am done completely, what a pain to fit the rx240 with push/pull in there but i did it somehow


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazynuts16*
> 
> I need to get a fan controller as my fans are just a little bit too loud for me, its not a problem that needs to be dealt with immediately as they are not crazy loud but i would like to run them at just a little bit slower speeds when i am not doing heavy tasks.
> NO CONTROLLERS FOR THE BAYS
> Fan Specs: 4 x YateLoons -- Intake
> Rated Voltage: 12 Volts
> Operation Voltage: 6.5~13.8 Volts
> Input current: 0.30 Amp Max
> Operation temperature: -10 to +65 C
> Storage temperature: -40 to +70 C
> RPM: 1650 +/- 10%
> CFM: 70.5
> dB: 33
> Corners Closed
> 2 x Stock fans from the xspc rasa rx240 kit, Used as exhaust
> Rated Voltage: 12 Volts
> Input current: 0.18 Amp Stated
> RPM: 1650
> Not much info about this fan as I can only find what's written on the fan. Personal observations are that this fan is just a little bit louder than the yate loons but also pushes a bit more air than the yate loon.
> I saw some fan controllers on newegg that gave me the idea of splitting the fans and plugging them into the motherboard to provide pwm control. Is there anything that you would recommend that can do that?
> I want the most hassle-free control through temperatures. The yate loons speed will also effect what my cpu temps are.
> Would like something that can fit in the rear pci slots, have enough space there. Front bays are all full including hdd racks.
> System Specs:
> CPU - i7-2600k
> Motherboard - Asus Z68 pro
> Ram - Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb 1600 cas 9
> HSF - Hyper 212 evo Corsair H80 XSPC Rasa RX240 Kit
> HDD - Spinpoint 1tb HDD Hd103sj x2
> SSD - Crucial M4 128gb
> PSU - XFX PRO850W XXX Silver
> GPU - Gigabyte 6850 OC
> Case - Cooler Master Storm Scout
> Thank you!!
> Will post pics of the build after i am done completely, what a pain to fit the rx240 with push/pull in there but i did it somehow


Wow, if you think the stock XSPC kit fans are loud I don't know what to tell you. I thought they were really quiet......


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I disagree, the RS360 can handle a CPU and GPU, if you are running 2 gpu's you might be pushing it.


Yeah, I wasn't really thinking when I posted that. Still tired









Edited it out and made it clear.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> That is good to know about the pump. I was wondering if it would take care of all of this water.
> I think he should just try it and see what he gets. He will probably be okay.


Yeah, it's a strong pump no doubt about that.

And yeah, he should be. But if he's looking to go full on watercooling for both of his GPUs along with his CPU that 360 may not cut it. Well, it will, just depends on what kind of temps he's looking for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazynuts16*
> 
> I need to get a fan controller as my fans are just a little bit too loud for me, its not a problem that needs to be dealt with immediately as they are not crazy loud but i would like to run them at just a little bit slower speeds when i am not doing heavy tasks.
> NO CONTROLLERS FOR THE BAYS
> Fan Specs: 4 x YateLoons -- Intake
> Rated Voltage: 12 Volts
> Operation Voltage: 6.5~13.8 Volts
> Input current: 0.30 Amp Max
> Operation temperature: -10 to +65 C
> Storage temperature: -40 to +70 C
> RPM: 1650 +/- 10%
> CFM: 70.5
> dB: 33
> Corners Closed
> 2 x Stock fans from the xspc rasa rx240 kit, Used as exhaust
> Rated Voltage: 12 Volts
> Input current: 0.18 Amp Stated
> RPM: 1650
> Not much info about this fan as I can only find what's written on the fan. Personal observations are that this fan is just a little bit louder than the yate loons but also pushes a bit more air than the yate loon.
> I saw some fan controllers on newegg that gave me the idea of splitting the fans and plugging them into the motherboard to provide pwm control. Is there anything that you would recommend that can do that?
> I want the most hassle-free control through temperatures. The yate loons speed will also effect what my cpu temps are.
> Would like something that can fit in the rear pci slots, have enough space there. Front bays are all full including hdd racks.
> System Specs:
> CPU - i7-2600k
> Motherboard - Asus Z68 pro
> Ram - Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb 1600 cas 9
> HSF - Hyper 212 evo Corsair H80 XSPC Rasa RX240 Kit
> HDD - Spinpoint 1tb HDD Hd103sj x2
> SSD - Crucial M4 128gb
> PSU - XFX PRO850W XXX Silver
> GPU - Gigabyte 6850 OC
> Case - Cooler Master Storm Scout
> Thank you!!
> Will post pics of the build after i am done completely, what a pain to fit the rx240 with push/pull in there but i did it somehow


Honestly, if you can't fit a fan controller, look into the Gentle Typhoon fans. They move some serious air and are as quiet as can be.









I love my AP-14's. However, if you're looking for the "best" try to find and get some AP-15's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Wow, if you think the stock XSPC kit fans are loud I don't know what to tell you. I thought they were really quiet......


Me too.. I can't even hear my XSPC fans, only thing I hear from time-to-time is my pump inside my res.. :S


----------



## crazynuts16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Wow, if you think the stock XSPC kit fans are loud I don't know what to tell you. I thought they were really quiet......


Quote:


> Honestly, if you can't fit a fan controller, look into the Gentle Typhoon fans. They move some serious air and are as quiet as can be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my AP-14's. However, if you're looking for the "best" try to find and get some AP-15's.
> Me too.. I can't even hear my XSPC fans, only thing I hear from time-to-time is my pump inside my res.. :S


I actually cannot hear my pump at all, when i ran the leak test without the fans running i could not hear any difference between off and on. I don't think they are overly loud, its just that they don't need to be at full speed at all times especially when i am not doing heavy tasking.

My computer stays on 24/7 and sometimes when the room is really quiet, the fans are the only thing i hear.


----------



## douglatins

I just built a kit with a RX360 and a D5 pump and a raystorm and its worse than my archon....


----------



## Los Hog

? Whats up with it?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> I just built a kit with a RX360 and a D5 pump and a raystorm and its worse than my archon....


Pics? Loop order?


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> I just built a kit with a RX360 and a D5 pump and a raystorm and its worse than my archon....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Pics? Loop order?


^^Please


----------



## selluminis

Got my EX360 today. It is really thin, but some of the reviews I have read say it is comparable to the RX360...... Or is it really more comparable to the RS360? There was something about high pressure or flow. Can't remember. Could have sworn that it was compared to the RX360 and did about as well.


----------



## jeffblute

the EX is *like* a thin RX, but you need high speed fans for it, it is only slightly behind it's big brother


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> the EX is *like* a thin RX, but you need high speed fans for it, it is only slightly behind it's big brother


Cool, I got 6 CM sickle flows at 2000 RPM each for it. Should be fine.....


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Cool, I got 6 CM sickle flows at 2000 RPM each for it. Should be fine.....


Get some pics up when you can, I love seeing what others do for setups


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> Get some pics up when you can, I love seeing what others do for setups


Got the camera batteries charging as we speak.


----------



## usop8290

may i join the club??..new member here.
RX240 kit + ex240 and xspc compression fitting


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *usop8290*
> 
> may i join the club??..new member here.
> RX240 kit + ex240 and xspc compression fitting


I don't see any XSPC items... JK. Welcome.....

Nice set up. You should def WC the GPU as well.


----------



## usop8290

thanks bro..im going to WC the gpu next week..waiting for the block to arrive..


----------



## japanesegorilla

Hey, so I've been lurking around here for a while and I figured it was about time to start participating.

So, last week I ordered a RS240 kit along with a EX360 from svc.com and installed the kit with the EX360 and 3x yate loon high fans over the weekend (the rs240 will have to wait for now). My load temps with my i7 860 @ 4.0Ghz (1.33 Vcore) dropped from around 83C max under IBT to 61C max under IBT. Ambient temperatures are around 21C. Are these normal temperatures? I've been told that I should be getting better temperatures. Is that true? I currently have it set up in exhaust though I don't have my side panel on so internal temps aren't that different from outside temps.

I guess the real question I have is I've looked at radiator reviews for the EX360 that show the difference between water temperature and ambient air temperatures and they show the difference being at most 8C or so
with mid rpm fans. How closely should my cpu temperatures match that? I mean, I've calculated that my CPU is producing something like 180W, which is way less than the tests used. So, I guess I'm asking if I am getting the results that I should be. Oh and I'm completely new to water cooling if you hadn't guessed.

I'll post some pics once I get my system cleaned up a bit.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *usop8290*
> 
> may i join the club??..new member here.
> RX240 kit + ex240 and xspc compression fitting


Looks sweet! I love the fat, blood-red tubes. Never been a big fan of the smaller tubing.

Be sure to let us know how that Tygon holds up... I (and others too, I'm sure) am curious to see if it'll cloud up or not.


----------



## usop8290

im draining my system next week...wait n see..
but my previous attempt using distill water, the tygon tube failed...become yellowish and cloudy just in 3 weeks..


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Hey, so I've been lurking around here for a while and I figured it was about time to start participating.
> So, last week I ordered a RS240 kit along with a EX360 from svc.com and installed the kit with the EX360 and 3x yate loon high fans over the weekend (the rs240 will have to wait for now). My load temps with my i7 860 @ 4.0Ghz (1.33 Vcore) dropped from around 83C max under IBT to 61C max under IBT. Ambient temperatures are around 21C. Are these normal temperatures? I've been told that I should be getting better temperatures. Is that true? I currently have it set up in exhaust though I don't have my side panel on so internal temps aren't that different from outside temps.
> I guess the real question I have is I've looked at radiator reviews for the EX360 that show the difference between water temperature and ambient air temperatures and they show the difference being at most 8C or so
> with mid rpm fans. How closely should my cpu temperatures match that? I mean, I've calculated that my CPU is producing something like 180W, which is way less than the tests used. So, I guess I'm asking if I am getting the results that I should be. Oh and I'm completely new to water cooling if you hadn't guessed.
> I'll post some pics once I get my system cleaned up a bit.


Those temps are decent, especially with that CPU. I would say that dropping temps by 20C + is pretty damn good. I would have the fans on the top of the rad bringing air into the case though if your are only using 3. The air inside the case coming off of the parts still has to be hotter than the air outside the case. It will be fairly close to room temp. Each system is different. Your OC on your CPU could be producing more heat than the systems that were tested in the article that you read. I say it looks good.

I just got my ex360 today. Going to have it on my i5 2500k and my RS 240 on my gpu. Going to set it up this weekend. I will post temps and pics and all that good stuff....


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *usop8290*
> 
> may i join the club??..new member here.
> RX240 kit + ex240 and xspc compression fitting


Very nice setup, you did a great job it looks great


----------



## jeffblute

ok after a few days getting the air bubbles out of my system, I am pretty happy with my temps. Much, much better then air.

Right now the temps are looking like:

Ambient room temp: 19 c
Idle / load

CPU: 29 c / 36 c

GPU: 31 c / 40 c

Are these looking good to most or a bit high?
This is all on a single loop with the RX 360, stock settings, ect


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> ok after a few days getting the air bubbles out of my system, I am pretty happy with my temps. Much, much better then air.
> Right now the temps are looking like:
> Ambient room temp: 19 c
> Idle / load
> CPU: 29 c / 36 c
> GPU: 31 c / 40 c
> Are these looking good to most or a bit high?
> This is all on a single loop with the RX 360, stock settings, ect


Those temps like awesome!


----------



## Los Hog

@selluminis Its a sign yourself in kind of club







Go here LINKY scroll UP just a little and you will see your sig code and a sign in list


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> @selluminis Its a sign yourself in kink of club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go here LINKY scroll UP just a little and you will see your sig code and a sign in list


I have the sig. Not sure what you are referring to.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Gah! I just checked the fedex tracking info for my compression fitting order from jabtech. It's been resheduled from this friday to next monday! I was so looking forward to adding my rs240 to the loop this weekend. I even got my white primochill tubing today too.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Gah! I just checked the fedex tracking info for my compression fitting order from jabtech. It's been resheduled from this friday to next monday! I was so looking forward to adding my rs240 to the loop this weekend. I even got my white primochill tubing today too.


That sucks. I am waiting on some parts to complete my build as well. Hope I have better luck.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Gah! I just checked the fedex tracking info for my compression fitting order from jabtech. It's been resheduled from this friday to next monday! I was so looking forward to adding my rs240 to the loop this weekend. I even got my white primochill tubing today too.


Aw tough break man. Hope you get it soon.

I'll be getting my Rasa CPU block, Rasa GPU o-ring replacements, Masterkleer tubing, and PT nuke from PPCs tomorrow, so I should be able to start on my first loop in the next few days. I've flushed and cleaned everything out with tap water, how do I go about flushing with distilled? Do I just setup the loop and fill it up with distilled, let it run for a bit and drain it?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Aw tough break man. Hope you get it soon.
> I'll be getting my Rasa CPU block, Rasa GPU o-ring replacements, Masterkleer tubing, and PT nuke from PPCs tomorrow, so I should be able to start on my first loop in the next few days. I've flushed and cleaned everything out with tap water, how do I go about flushing with distilled? Do I just setup the loop and fill it up with distilled, let it run for a bit and drain it?


You can do what I did..

Put a fitting on one end of your rad and put some tubing on it. Then jam a funnel on the end of the tubing then dump distilled in the rad while you shake it around and empty it out of the opposite end.


----------



## selluminis

Okay, how crazy do I want to get with my case mod/ reboot/ addition to my wc set up? I just got some nice plexi glass that would be perfect for a window addition on the side of my 932 advanced case......









I have NEVER done anything like this. Affraid I might get myself in too deep. Or it will be really awesome and I will have found a new talent.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Okay, how crazy do I want to get with my case mod/ reboot/ addition to my wc set up? I just got some nice plexi glass that would be perfect for a window addition on the side of my 932 advanced case......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have NEVER done anything like this. Affraid I might get myself in too deep. Or it will be really awesome and I will have found a new talent.


DO EEEET!


----------



## crackerssss

Hey guys, quick question

What size tubing do I need for the 360 kit?

edit: should 2m of this be fine for a cpu only loop? Note I got heaps because my rad is going to be outside my case, have an epic idea for a setup.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crackerssss*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question
> What size tubing do I need for the 360 kit?
> edit: should 2m of this be fine for a cpu only loop? Note I got heaps because my rad is going to be outside my case, have an epic idea for a setup.


7/16 id 5/8 od or 1/2 id 3/4 od will work. 7/16" will be tighter on the 1/2" barbs that come with these kits. 2 meters might be close. 2 meters was plenty for my cpu only loop, but my rad is in my case.


----------



## crackerssss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> 7/16 id 5/8 od or 1/2 id 3/4 od will work. 7/16" will be tighter on the 1/2" barbs that come with these kits. 2 meters might be close.


So either tubing works? And close as in too short or just right? I don't mind going more, just don't want TOO much leftover.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crackerssss*
> 
> So either tubing works? And close as in too short or just right? I don't mind going more, just don't want TOO much leftover.


Either will work. Some people prefer 7/16 because they feel that it is tight enough over the barbs that they dont have to use clamps. I use clamps regardless, but im slightly paranoid. I had around 1.5 feet left out of 2 meters when i set up my kit but my rad is inside my case.


----------



## crackerssss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Either will work. Some people prefer 7/16 because they feel that it is tight enough over the barbs that they dont have to use clamps. I use clamps regardless, but im slightly paranoid. I had around 1.5 feet left out of 2 meters when i set up my kit but my rad is inside my case.


Does the 7/16 provide any different performance? And I might go for 3 then c: +rep too, thanks for the help!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> DO EEEET!


What is the best tool to use to make a cut like that? I only have a cut off wheel.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> What is the best tool to use to make a cut like that? I only have a cut off wheel.


Rotary tools like a Dremel or a jigsaw.

I've seen these two items recommended often here and in other places:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-Rotary-Storage/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1325600837&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-709-01-110-Super-Accessory/dp/B003BIFMKG/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1325601177&sr=1-4

Were I to start modding, I would definitely pick these up, but until then, I'd rather save the money for food and whatnot.


----------



## solar0987

I bought a dremel and a cutting disk at wallmart to mod pretty much my whole case. Heya guys im still missing the rasa action








Much love from me you got my feet wet so to speak


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> I bought a dremel and a cutting disk at wallmart to mod pretty much my whole case. Heya guys im still missing the rasa action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much love from me you got my feet wet so to speak


But you've got much better stuff than the Rasa kit.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crackerssss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Either will work. Some people prefer 7/16 because they feel that it is tight enough over the barbs that they dont have to use clamps. I use clamps regardless, but im slightly paranoid. I had around 1.5 feet left out of 2 meters when i set up my kit but my rad is inside my case.
> 
> 
> 
> Does the 7/16 provide any different performance? And I might go for 3 then c: +rep too, thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

No you will get the same performance out of 7/16 as you would 1/2. But 7/16 does more than feel tight, it is alot tighter on a 1/2 barb. So tight in fact most times you will have to cut the tubing off the barb


----------



## Hogwasher

I am running the XSPC RX240 right now. Getting great temps but at idle the pump is louder then when I was air cooling.

So I plan on using a small amount of my tax money to get a new pump. My goal is near silent, but still good performance. I want to hear my case fans not the pump









Max budget is probably $150 closer to $100.

Any suggestions? Should I just start a separate thread for this?

should add I use the fan controller on my phantom and have it turned all the way down at all times


----------



## Los Hog

LINK this is a nice res and a 655 pump.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> LINK this is a nice res and a 655 pump.


do you know the dB on that pump XSPC told me theirs is 42dB

by the way +rep for link


----------



## Los Hog

I just saw "Note: Pump not included and required for usage! "


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> I am running the XSPC RX240 right now. Getting great temps but at idle the pump is louder then when I was air cooling.
> So I plan on using a small amount of my tax money to get a new pump. My goal is near silent, but still good performance. I want to hear my case fans not the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Max budget is probably $150 closer to $100.
> Any suggestions? Should I just start a separate thread for this?
> should add I use the fan controller on my phantom and have it turned all the way down at all times


XSPC Reservoir + Swiftech MCP655 = $140

Seeing as though you can't really replace the pump in the Rasa kit.


----------



## anubis1127

Hey guys, I've been away from OCN for a while, and thus haven't been keeping up with the thread. Rather than searching through 1166 pages, I just thought I'd ask my question/questions, and also because I wanted to get a little advice on the loop order.

I'm using the RS240 kit right now with just the X20 750 Pump/Res, the RS240 rad, and the Rasa block, and have been loving it. I recently acquired a few extra radiators, and have to mod my case a bit to fit them in, but I think I'm finally going to make time to do it this weekend. I will also be adding a EK full cover block to my gtx 580.

What I'm wondering is, how many of the radiators should I try using? The new radiators I have are: Swiftech MCR320-XP, XSPC EX 240, and XSPC EX 120.

Due to space constrictions in my case I can either use MCR320, or EX 240 up top, EX 120 in back fan spot, with the existing RS240 in the front. If I were to use the MCR320 up top, I would move the EX240 to the front. The top needs to be modded to fit either the EX240, or the MCR320, but if I go with the MCR320 I would have to remove my DVD-Drive, which I will probably do anyway. The MCR320 will also be a bit trickier to put up top, but it can be done.

I was leaning toward EX240 up top, EX120 in back, and RS240 up front, loop would be Pump/Res -> EX240 -> CPU block -> EX120->GPU block->RS240. Is that too much stress to put on the X20 750 Pump? Would I be better scrapping the EX120, and just going with either MCR320, or EX240 up top and RS240 up front, along with CPU block, and GPU block? Is that loop order OK?

Thanks for any help/input in advance.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been away from OCN for a while, and thus haven't been keeping up with the thread. Rather than searching through 1166 pages, I just thought I'd ask my question/questions, and also because I wanted to get a little advice on the loop order.
> I'm using the RS240 kit right now with just the X20 750 Pump/Res, the RS240 rad, and the Rasa block, and have been loving it. I recently acquired a few extra radiators, and have to mod my case a bit to fit them in, but I think I'm finally going to make time to do it this weekend. I will also be adding a EK full cover block to my gtx 580.
> What I'm wondering is, how many of the radiators should I try using? The new radiators I have are: Swiftech MCR320-XP, XSPC EX 240, and XSPC EX 120.
> Due to space constrictions in my case I can either use MCR320, or EX 240 up top, EX 120 in back fan spot, with the existing RS240 in the front. If I were to use the MCR320 up top, I would move the EX240 to the front. The top needs to be modded to fit either the EX240, or the MCR320, but if I go with the MCR320 I would have to remove my DVD-Drive, which I will probably do anyway. The MCR320 will also be a bit trickier to put up top, but it can be done.
> I was leaning toward EX240 up top, EX120 in back, and RS240 up front, loop would be Pump/Res -> EX240 -> CPU block -> EX120->GPU block->RS240. Is that too much stress to put on the X20 750 Pump? Would I be better scrapping the EX120, and just going with either MCR320, or EX240 up top and RS240 up front, along with CPU block, and GPU block? Is that loop order OK?
> Thanks for any help/input in advance.


I you'll be fine with just the EX240 and RS240, combined thats a quad rad. If using just those two rads and two blocks the pump res combo will be fine.

As for loop order, don't worry about putting a Rad inbetween each component. The water temp doesn't change much, in your case the temp will probably be 1-1.5C. Just loop everything up in the cleanist, easiest way.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> I you'll be fine with just the EX240 and RS240, combined thats a quad rad. If using just those two rads and two blocks the pump res combo will be fine.
> As for loop order, don't worry about putting a Rad inbetween each component. The water temp doesn't change much, in your case the temp will probably be 1-1.5C. Just loop everything up in the cleanist, easiest way.


But the way he's wanting to set everything up, that would be the logical way to setup his loop.

Top > Back > Front

But I'm inclined to agree, you'll be fine man. You've got a lot of rad space for just those 2 components so you should be good to go.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> But the way he's wanting to set everything up, that would be the logical way to setup his loop.
> Top > Back > Front
> But I'm inclined to agree, you'll be fine man. You've got a lot of rad space for just those 2 components so you should be good to go.


Tbh I couldn't visualise in my head how it would look setup that way lol

But if the loop he suggested is the easiest way and achieve short clean lines then by all means thats the way to do it









Normally when some1 suggests a loop like that it isn't, and they only suggest it because they think they'll get terrible performance if they don't


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> I you'll be fine with just the EX240 and RS240, combined thats a quad rad. If using just those two rads and two blocks the pump res combo will be fine.
> As for loop order, don't worry about putting a Rad inbetween each component. The water temp doesn't change much, in your case the temp will probably be 1-1.5C. Just loop everything up in the cleanist, easiest way.


OK, I was hoping to add the EX 120, just so I could stuff 3 rads into this mid-tower







But I suppose I'll just start with the EX240+RS240 combo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> But the way he's wanting to set everything up, that would be the logical way to setup his loop.
> Top > Back > Front
> But I'm inclined to agree, you'll be fine man. You've got a lot of rad space for just those 2 components so you should be good to go.


Yeah, that's the only logical way with 3 rads in those locations in this particular case, otherwise I'd be crossing tubes, and it'd be weird.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Tbh I couldn't visualise in my head how it would look setup that way lol
> But if the loop he suggested is the easiest way and achieve short clean lines then by all means thats the way to do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally when some1 suggests a loop like that it isn't, and they only suggest it because they think they'll get terrible performance if they don't


It was strictly due to the location of the radiators in relation to the location of the blocks, and pump/res.

Thanks guys, I'll add some pics when I'm done.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Rotary tools like a Dremel or a jigsaw.
> I've seen these two items recommended often here and in other places:
> http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-Rotary-Storage/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1325600837&sr=8-2
> http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-709-01-110-Super-Accessory/dp/B003BIFMKG/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1325601177&sr=1-4
> Were I to start modding, I would definitely pick these up, but until then, I'd rather save the money for food and whatnot.


thought so. + rep on the confirmation.


----------



## Kokin

Fweee







so my Rasa CPU block, Rasa GPU o-ring replacements, PT-nuke, and MasterKleer tubing came in today. I will go ahead and start a build log and try to get my loop setup today. I thank everyone who has helped answer my questions and have given me great tips, you guys have been awesome!









Question: Is the included TIM in the Rasa block good? I have MX-2 and AS-5 as my other options.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Fweee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so my Rasa CPU block, Rasa GPU o-ring replacements, PT-nuke, and MasterKleer tubing came in today. I will go ahead and start a build log and try to get my loop setup today. I thank everyone who has helped answer my questions and have given me great tips, you guys have been awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question: Is the included TIM in the Rasa block good? I have MX-2 and AS-5 as my other options.


I used it and got okay temps. I am going to put some ac-5 on mine. I suggest to use the ac-5 or the mx-2. I think the ac-5 is a little better. Don't quote me on that.

The stuff that came with the kit had really good coverage on my CPU though.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Sigh...... So it no longer matters that my compression fitting delivery date got moved back to Monday because my motherboard just died. Then it got worse, I discovered that I didn't register it within 30 days with EVGA to get the 3 year warranty. Then it got better, I called EVGA and it turns out that they changed their policy so that for certain products you don't have to register them to get the full warranty, and he said that they cross ship for a fee. Then it got worse, the online rma request process didn't give me the shipping option that I wanted so I called customer service and they told me that they would have to cancel my RMA and it would be 10 days before they could reissue it with the delivery option that I wanted. Then it got even worse, I was on the phone with evga customer service and something happened so that I could hear him but he couldn't hear me...... Then I called them back and they still couldn't hear me. Then I realized that I was late for class. lol, I guess there's nothing I can do but laugh.

Anyway, it sucks, but I'm happy that it's still under warranty and I should get my replacement MB on Monday or Tuesday. EVGA support was very helpful.


----------



## kamikaze_

That's why they're the best. gg.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Sigh...... So it no longer matters that my compression fitting delivery date got moved back to Monday because my motherboard just died. Then it got worse, I discovered that I didn't register it within 30 days with EVGA to get the 3 year warranty. Then it got better, I called EVGA and it turns out that they changed their policy so that for certain products you don't have to register them to get the full warranty, and he said that they cross ship for a fee. Then it got worse, the online rma request process didn't give me the shipping option that I wanted so I called customer service and they told me that they would have to cancel my RMA and it would be 10 days before they could reissue it with the delivery option that I wanted. Then it got even worse, I was on the phone with evga customer service and something happened so that I could hear him but he couldn't hear me...... Then I called them back and they still couldn't hear me. Then I realized that I was late for class. lol, I guess there's nothing I can do but laugh.
> Anyway, it sucks, but I'm happy that it's still under warranty and I should get my replacement MB on Monday or Tuesday. EVGA support was very helpful.


Damn, just Damn.....


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Sigh...... So it no longer matters that my compression fitting delivery date got moved back to Monday because my motherboard just died. Then it got worse, I discovered that I didn't register it within 30 days with EVGA to get the 3 year warranty. Then it got better, I called EVGA and it turns out that they changed their policy so that for certain products you don't have to register them to get the full warranty, and he said that they cross ship for a fee. Then it got worse, the online rma request process didn't give me the shipping option that I wanted so I called customer service and they told me that they would have to cancel my RMA and it would be 10 days before they could reissue it with the delivery option that I wanted. Then it got even worse, I was on the phone with evga customer service and something happened so that I could hear him but he couldn't hear me...... Then I called them back and they still couldn't hear me. Then I realized that I was late for class. lol, I guess there's nothing I can do but laugh.
> Anyway, it sucks, but I'm happy that it's still under warranty and I should get my replacement MB on Monday or Tuesday. EVGA support was very helpful.


I hope everything from now on goes smooth. How did your motherboard die?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I used it and got okay temps. I am going to put some ac-5 on mine. I suggest to use the ac-5 or the mx-2. I think the ac-5 is a little better. Don't quote me on that.
> The stuff that came with the kit had really good coverage on my CPU though.


Ah thanks, I was just planning on using the MX-2, but I was curious about the XSPC TIM, but I couldn't find much about it.


----------



## Ahzanti

Well I got my S'Jet Systems up and running. For the parts please look at my rig at the bottom of this post. My current speeds and temps are

CPU: 4.8Ghz
Bus speed: 200Mhz
Multiplier: 24

GPU: 900Mhz
Memory Clock: 1305Mhz

I have the Raza RX240 with stock fans only cooling the FX-8150. I am seeing temps of 60 - 65C under prime 95, dose this sound right or with in reason? My house is at 80F just for reference. Also When I ran prime 95 after 10min, some times 6, the water temp would be 60C or over and my computer would shut down with no reason. I played Supreme Commander FA 8 adaptive bots no human and played Quake 4 for about 1 hour 30 min no shut down. Any ideas. Even now I have been on S'jet Systems for 2 hours running graphics benches no shut down. Thanks in advance.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I hope everything from now on goes smooth. How did your motherboard die?


Good question. Now it just starts to go for a few seconds (fan start to spin) then it shuts down, then starts again, then crashes, and so on. It just gets stuck in this cycle until I flip the switch on the power supply. It has been squeaking for a while now so it isn't too surprising that it died (whenever the cpu voltage changed when the cpu load changed I would clearly hear a squeak/static noise from the motherboard).


----------



## kamikaze_

Faildozer is quite the overclocker.


----------



## axipher

So if I'm making a custom loop with an RX240 and RS240 would I be half-eligible?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I used it and got okay temps. I am going to put some ac-5 on mine. I suggest to use the ac-5 or the mx-2. I think the ac-5 is a little better. Don't quote me on that.
> The stuff that came with the kit had really good coverage on my CPU though.


AC-5 is good, but the only downfall is it has a cure time of about 300 hours. After it cures, its very good TIM.

My personal favorite is Shin-Etsu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I hope everything from now on goes smooth. How did your motherboard die?
> Ah thanks, I was just planning on using the MX-2, but I was curious about the XSPC TIM, but I couldn't find much about it.


The XSPC TIM is pretty good, believe it or not. MX-2 is also good, so you can't go wrong either way, really.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> Well I got my S'Jet Systems up and running. For the parts please look at my rig at the bottom of this post. My current speeds and temps are
> CPU: 4.8Ghz
> Bus speed: 200Mhz
> Multiplier: 24
> GPU: 900Mhz
> Memory Clock: 1305Mhz
> I have the Raza RX240 with stock fans only cooling the FX-8150. I am seeing temps of 60 - 65C under prime 95, dose this sound right or with in reason? My house is at 80F just for reference. Also When I ran prime 95 after 10min, some times 6, the water temp would be 60C or over and my computer would shut down with no reason. I played Supreme Commander FA 8 adaptive bots no human and played Quake 4 for about 1 hour 30 min no shut down. Any ideas. Even now I have been on S'jet Systems for 2 hours running graphics benches no shut down. Thanks in advance.


I'm not really familiar with AMD chips but that does sound too high in my opinion. But then again, you have to take into considering that you're cooling a 8-core power hungry chip. So that may be normal or a bad mount of your block.

I'd suggest that you try re-mounting your waterblock and seeing where or if that gets you anywhere. However, if you're looking for more than one opinion, you may try making a separate thread in the AMD section or something. Goodluck man, hope everything works out for you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So if I'm making a custom loop with an RX240 and RS240 would I be half-eligible?


Are you just using the XSPC rads or are you using other products from XSPC?


----------



## japanesegorilla

Does anyone have any idea how to get the rasa cpu block backplate off of my motherboard? The adhesive on it has it quite firmly in place and I'm afraid that I might break my motherboard trying to remove it.

Edit: nevermind, it just took some leverage.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea how to get the rasa cpu block backplate off of my motherboard? The adhesive on it has it quite firmly in place and I'm afraid that I might break my motherboard trying to remove it.


You won't break your motherboard. The backplates are easier to take off if your motherboard is still mounted in your case vs trying to take it off outside of the case.

Just be gentle, start at a corner, then gently start pulling it back little, by little, and you'll be good man.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea how to get the rasa cpu block backplate off of my motherboard? The adhesive on it has it quite firmly in place and I'm afraid that I might break my motherboard trying to remove it.


Ah man, I had that happen with my old corsair h70 back plate. You just have to be careful and patient. Took me about 15 minutes to pry that thing off. I learned to not use that sticky stuff anymore.


----------



## axipher

Just the RAD's, although I'm undecided on a RES


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Just the RAD's, although I'm undecided on a RES


The pump/res combos from XSPC seem to work really well and save a lot of room.


----------



## kamikaze_

Agreed, I'll be getting a Myriad D5 for my MCP655 and re-doing all of my water cooling after this GTX 570 gets here.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaze_*
> 
> Agreed, I'll be getting a Myriad D5 for my MCP655 and re-doing all of my water cooling after this GTX 570 gets here.


Waiting on freaking thermal pads so I can put my GTX 560ti 448 core classy under water and completely redo my build. They better get here by Saturday or else.......


----------



## kamikaze_

Yeah, because shipping or mail won't be going anywhere on Sundays.


----------



## axipher

I've already got an MCP350 that I got for dirt cheap on here :S


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> Well I got my S'Jet Systems up and running. For the parts please look at my rig at the bottom of this post. My current speeds and temps are
> CPU: 4.8Ghz
> Bus speed: 200Mhz
> Multiplier: 24
> GPU: 900Mhz
> Memory Clock: 1305Mhz
> I have the Raza RX240 with stock fans only cooling the FX-8150. I am seeing temps of 60 - 65C under prime 95, dose this sound right or with in reason? My house is at 80F just for reference. Also When I ran prime 95 after 10min, some times 6, the water temp would be 60C or over and my computer would shut down with no reason. I played Supreme Commander FA 8 adaptive bots no human and played Quake 4 for about 1 hour 30 min no shut down. Any ideas. Even now I have been on S'jet Systems for 2 hours running graphics benches no shut down. Thanks in advance.


With the FX chips, you don't want to go over 61C. And if that's under water, you're running way too hot. What kind of voltage are you pushing to get that to 4.8? Check the FX owners thread in the AMD section for more info, but as mentioned here, you might not have the cpu block mounted properly thus giving you the high temps.


----------



## Ahzanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> With the FX chips, you don't want to go over 61C. And if that's under water, you're running way too hot. What kind of voltage are you pushing to get that to 4.8? Check the FX owners thread in the AMD section for more info, but as mentioned here, you might not have the cpu block mounted properly thus giving you the high temps.


I have my bios set to 24x multiplier cpu voltage control set to 1.5000v, cpu nb vid control 1.2500v, and load line control set to extreame other then that every thing is set to normal. Oh and my idle temp is 32C. By idle I have firewall, anti-virus, two desktop gadgets, firefox, and the nomal windows system required running.


----------



## selluminis

Everything showed today. Now, everyone cross their fingers and hopefully I will not ruin my case.......


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> I have my bios set to 24x multiplier cpu voltage control set to 1.5000v, cpu nb vid control 1.2500v, and load line control set to extreame other then that every thing is set to normal. Oh and my idle temp is 32C. By idle I have firewall, anti-virus, two desktop gadgets, firefox, and the nomal windows system required running.


I have the 8120 (just sitting on my desk as my Crosshair V Formula is dead, waiting for RMA) and know that i could get to 4.7-4.8 with less voltage than 1.5. for your 8150 you should be able to get higher clocks with less voltage. Reseat your cpu block, and if that doesn't help your temps, you just may not have a chip that can't run 4.8 24/7. Ultimately it's up to you, as p95 is really the only time that cpu ever hits it's max temps. There's also more info about how certain chips OC better than others with a certain range on stock vcore (think it was in the 1.3v range that OC's better with less vcore) so you might want to check on that too, if your stock vcore is lower or higher you just might not get the overclocks you want out of it. Again, the FX owner's thread has all this info in more detail..


----------



## Ahzanti

pvt.joker Thanks for the answer and I will look at the FX owners thread.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> pvt.joker Thanks for the answer and I will look at the FX owners thread.


1.5 is really high, but every chip oc's differently too.


----------



## savagepagan

I have read at another website that the pump in this kit is rated poorly. It is a guide to water cooling. In fact, it says to avoid this pump. Lets say I wanted to change pumps because I want to add a dual gpu block and a second radiator(240mm) for a dual gpu card. What pump should I upgrade to? I read that the laing D5 is not necessarily a great pump.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I have read at another website that the pump in this kit is rated poorly. It is a guide to water cooling. In fact, it says to avoid this pump. Lets say I wanted to change pumps because I want to add a gpu block and a second radiator(240mm) for a dual gpu card. What pump should I upgrade to? I read that the laing D5 is not necessarily a great pump.


I am going to use this pump for 2 rads, cpu, and gpu. Should be okay.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I have read at another website that the pump in this kit is rated poorly. It is a guide to water cooling. In fact, it says to avoid this pump. Lets say I wanted to change pumps because I want to add a gpu block and a second radiator(240mm) for a dual gpu card. What pump should I upgrade to? I read that the laing D5 is not necessarily a great pump.


This pump has two things not going for it;
1. It has a RMA rate do to rattling noise
2. It doesn't have the highest head pressure. Its good for about 2 GPU's and the CPU in the loop.

The things that are good about it;
1. Very quiet and very little vibration
2. It doesn't suck air back in from the loop when bleeding, makes it very easy and quick.
3. XSPC have very good customer service

The thing is the stronger the pump the more vibration and sound its going to make. If you want quiet and are not cooling a 3 way GPU setup you'll be fine with this pump.


----------



## thebigrobbyrob

Hi everyone. Do any of you have the Intel mounting plate? When I bought the RASA, I got the AMD plate and sure enough now that i want to do an Intel build, I cant buy one from anywhere.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebigrobbyrob*
> 
> Hi everyone. Do any of you have the Intel mounting plate? When I bought the RASA, I got the AMD plate and sure enough now that i want to do an Intel build, I cant buy one from anywhere.


Good question. You can maybe try to adapt one of these....

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10657/bra-50/Sunbeam_Core-Contact_i5_LGA_1156_Adapter_Kit.html?tl=g30c85s453


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebigrobbyrob*
> 
> Hi everyone. Do any of you have the Intel mounting plate? When I bought the RASA, I got the AMD plate and sure enough now that i want to do an Intel build, I cant buy one from anywhere.


Really any 1155 mounting plate should do. If you have another aftermarket cooler you've used before, just use the one from that. Or pick up that one selluminis linked to you.


----------



## Kokin

So I finally got my loop built and leak tested in the last 2 days. I will have pictures once I get the USB cable specifically for my gf's DSLR I borrowed (wish it was a universal cable).

Anyway, I can't seem to see my CPU socket temps and my Core temps are 0 due to being an unlocked CPU, so I'm in the dark regarding my CPU, but my GPU temps are amazing! Idle is 29C/27C (not sure why 2nd GPU is cooler) and load is about 33C for both GPUs. The crazy thing is that I fell asleep when Furmark was on and max temps with 3x Yate Loon Highs at about 1000RPM was 45C. For 10 hours of Furmark and fan speeds at very low RPM, that's amazing!


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I am going to use this pump for 2 rads, cpu, and gpu. Should be okay.


But what if that vid card was a dual gpu card and you added a 240mm rad for it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Well guys I think I might be out of the club now. I just upgraded the XSPC res and pump kit to an MCP 655-B and a micro-res from Swiftech. I'll post some pics as soon as I get a chance to take some. It's been great seeing what all of you have been doing with this kit and I decided to go with a better pump because I also upgraded to a second GTX 560 Ti. I didn't want to run into any flow issues with the XSPC pump. Aside from a minor issue with a leaking fitting I haven't had any problems with the install. I'm still using the XSPC RX360 rad though. I really don't see any reason to upgrade it at all. It performs really well with my current configuration.


----------



## skitzab1

has anyone tryed running 2 pump/tank combo one behinde the other ?????


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> has anyone tryed running 2 pump/tank combo one behinde the other ?????


What do you mean exactly? Run two Pump/Res combos? As in two 5.25" Drive bay Res/Pumps?

Or run one of those XSPC Bay res's with fittings to contain two pumps?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Well guys I think I might be out of the club now. I just upgraded the XSPC res and pump kit to an MCP 655-B and a micro-res from Swiftech. I'll post some pics as soon as I get a chance to take some. It's been great seeing what all of you have been doing with this kit and I decided to go with a better pump because I also upgraded to a second GTX 560 Ti. I didn't want to run into any flow issues with the XSPC pump. Aside from a minor issue with a leaking fitting I haven't had any problems with the install. I'm still using the XSPC RX360 rad though. I really don't see any reason to upgrade it at all. It performs really well with my current configuration.


I'm really happy with my MCP 655 and at setting 4 (which is what the MCP 655-B runs at) it is almost quiet and performs similarly to speed 5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> has anyone tryed running 2 pump/tank combo one behinde the other ?????


Wouldn't that be pointless since all the pressure of the first pump be absorbed by the second res and the second pump be outputting the same pressure as the first?


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> What do you mean exactly? Run two Pump/Res combos? As in two 5.25" Drive bay Res/Pumps?
> Or run one of those XSPC Bay res's with fittings to contain two pumps?


sorry should have explaind better Run two Pump/Res combos X20 750 DUAL 5.25


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I'm really happy with my MCP 655 and at setting 4 (which is what the MCP 655-B runs at) it is almost quiet and performs similarly to speed 5.
> Wouldn't that be pointless since all the pressure of the first pump be absorbed by the second res and the second pump be outputting the same pressure as the first?


im thinking that as im noware near the flow rate that thay should help each other sustain a better flowrate


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> But you've got much better stuff than the Rasa kit.


Yes but i went from a h50- back a couple years ago, to a rasa kit, to what i got now


----------



## Kokin

I'm not sure if 2x X20 750s combine flow rate when you put them in series like that. A single one is good enough if you're looking to cool your CPU and 2x GPUs, otherwise if you're planning on cooling more than two GPUs you're better off just buying a better/stronger pump.

If you're really insistent on using two of them, you can make 2 loops, one for your CPU and one for your GPUs. Your rig pictures show that you have 2 rads, so it should work out without needing to buy other stuff. It would look like:

Loop 1: res/pump>top rad>cpu>res/pump
Loop 2: res/pump>gpu1>gpu2>bottom rad>res/pump

However, I'm still noob to watercooling, so the more experienced members might give a better answer than this.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I'm not sure if 2x X20 750s combine flow rate when you put them in series like that. A single one is good enough if you're looking to cool your CPU and 2x GPUs, otherwise if you're planning on cooling more than two GPUs you're better off just buying a better/stronger pump.
> If you're really insistent on using two of them, you can make 2 loops, one for your CPU and one for your GPUs. Your rig pictures show that you have 2 rads, so it should work out without needing to buy other stuff. It would look like:
> Loop 1: res/pump>top rad>cpu>res/pump
> Loop 2: res/pump>gpu1>gpu2>bottom rad>res/pump
> However, I'm still noob to watercooling, so the more experienced members might give a better answer than this.


my curent loop is
Loop 1: res/pump>top rad>cpu> back to res/pump
Loop 2: res/pump>gpu1>gpu2>bottom rad>middle rad back to res/pump


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Yes but i went from a h50- back a couple years ago, to a rasa kit, to what i got now


Ah, I was in the process of doing the same thing. I just had my H50 and sold it last week. Then I was planning on getting my first loop with the XSPC Rasa CPU, 2x Rasa GPU blocks, EX360 rad, and the X20 750 pump/res. However, that craigslist deal in my sig changed my plans since I ended up getting a Thermochill 360mm rad, Swiftech MCP655, and a DD dual bay res for "free". I actually still have the X20 750 pump/res that I bought a week before that craigslist deal and I'm not sure what to do with it. I might just resell it since the MCP655 is a much better pump.

That makes me wonder if I'm even qualified for this club, since I only have the XSPC Rasa CPU block and two of the universal GPU blocks and technically the pump/res, though it's not currently being used.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> my curent loop is
> Loop 1: res/pump>top rad>cpu> back to res/pump
> Loop 2: res/pump>gpu1>gpu2>bottom rad>middle rad back to res/pump


I didn't even see that you had a 360mm rad, but in that case, you should be getting very good flow rate with your two loops. Any increase in flow rate won't really bring better temps.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I didn't even see that you had a 360mm rad, but in that case, you should be getting very good flow rate with your two loops. Any increase in flow rate won't really bring better temps.


temps do seam alright im just bored lolz


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> temps do seam alright im just bored lolz


There's no answer for that, but you can always try making a 2nd rig or doing a SFF build.


----------



## selluminis

Okay, so my case mod went really badly. Need a case that can take a240 and a360 any ideas?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Okay, so my case mod went really badly. Need a case that can take a240 and a360 any ideas?


Pics?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Pics?


threw most of it away already. just have the bare chassis and hdd cage. that is it..... trying to find a case that I can put a 360 in the top and 240 in the bottem...


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> threw most of it away already. just have the bare chassis and hdd cage. that is it..... trying to find a case that I can put a 360 in the top and 240 in the bottem...


Silverstone TJ-07 can handle that easily.

You have a few options with it, you can throw a triple or even a quad in the bottom & put a 240 in the roof, or with a mod the roof can house a 360! Bearing in mind you can buy the TJ-07 with the roof mod done for you so you don't have too.

Would have to be a slim rad in the roof though, and I very highly doubt push pull would be possible, could only do one or the other, unless perhaps you used the slimmest rad going and some very slim fans also.


----------



## selluminis

Just ordered this bad boy. No modding necessary. can fit a 360 in the top and simply remove the bottom cluster of HDD cages and unscrew a plate in the bottom to fit my 240.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146089

I cannot wait!!!!!!!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Just ordered this bad boy. No modding necessary. can fit a 360 in the top and simply remove the bottom cluster of HDD cages and unscrew a plate in the bottom to fit my 240.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146089
> I cannot wait!!!!!!!


Very nice! I actually wanted a Switch when I saw it demo'ed at CES. I hope you enjoy it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Here's a picture of current setup. Let me know what you guys think. I'm still learning and I found someone using very similar placement of the pump and res. I think it works pretty well and doesn't look half bad either. At full load my bottom video card is only 3 to 4 degrees warmer than my top card.

IMGP0004 (4).JPG 2936k .JPG file


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> There's no answer for that, but you can always try making a 2nd rig or doing a SFF build.


i see that said a lot what dose it mean SFF build

is it like a simple simom build


----------



## skitzab1

i get it small form factor


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I have read at another website that the pump in this kit is rated poorly. It is a guide to water cooling. In fact, it says to avoid this pump. Lets say I wanted to change pumps because I want to add a dual gpu block and a second radiator(240mm) for a dual gpu card. What pump should I upgrade to? I read that the laing D5 is not necessarily a great pump.


Well, I beg to differ on that. I run a 2600K with x2 470's in my loop and the XSPC Res/Pump is handling it like a champ.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> threw most of it away already. just have the bare chassis and hdd cage. that is it..... trying to find a case that I can put a 360 in the top and 240 in the bottem...


My vote goes to the 800D.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here's a picture of current setup. Let me know what you guys think. I'm still learning and I found someone using very similar placement of the pump and res. I think it works pretty well and doesn't look half bad either. At full load my bottom video card is only 3 to 4 degrees warmer than my top card.
> 
> IMGP0004 (4).JPG 2936k .JPG file


Looks good!


----------



## Mr.Eiht

Hi mates! Quick question for you pros.
I want to get the "XSPC Rasa 750 RX360" or the "EK-KIT H3O 360 HFX". What I would need is a case where this stuff fits in without modding to much.
Here in Germany crazy things like mountain mod are not really available.
The only ones I found is the Obsidian 800D or the HAF X (but I guess to fit the pump and all that modding is needed).
Looks like even COSMOS II can`t hold a 360ish rad.

So the question is: Should I rather go with a big enough case where two 240 rads can dwell?

TBH: The only thing I want to put in the loop (atm) is my 3930K...I know a 360 or 2X240 might be overkill but
I guess with a bigger rad (or two) I can keep the fan speeds down, right?

Maybe I should mention that I have never build WC loop or anything like that - that is why I have strange questions, even after reseaching.
Thanks in advance!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Eiht*
> 
> Hi mates! Quick question for you pros.
> I want to get the "XSPC Rasa 750 RX360" or the "EK-KIT H3O 360 HFX". What I would need is a case where this stuff fits in without modding to much.
> Here in Germany crazy things like mountain mod are not really available.
> The only ones I found is the Obsidian 800D or the HAF X (but I guess to fit the pump and all that modding is needed).
> Looks like even COSMOS II can`t hold a 360ish rad.
> So the question is: Should I rather go with a big enough case where two 240 rads can dwell?
> TBH: The only thing I want to put in the loop (atm) is my 3930K...I know a 360 or 2X240 might be overkill but
> I guess with a bigger rad (or two) I can keep the fan speeds down, right?
> Maybe I should mention that I have never build WC loop or anything like that - that is why I have strange questions, even after reseaching.
> Thanks in advance!


Do not get the half x. Not really set up well for wc. You would be better with the 800d or the nzxt switch810 if you can get it.

Just get the 360 kit. Then, later down the road you can a 240 rad to the loop.


----------



## Mr.Eiht

I could get the nzxt switch810. But I dont think there is enough clearance to fit the thick radiator.
The case looks very sexy I would prefer this one. But I have to check if it fits a thick rad. I dont even need push/pull.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Eiht*
> 
> Hi mates! Quick question for you pros.
> I want to get the "XSPC Rasa 750 RX360" or the "EK-KIT H3O 360 HFX". What I would need is a case where this stuff fits in without modding to much.
> Here in Germany crazy things like mountain mod are not really available.
> The only ones I found is the Obsidian 800D or the HAF X (but I guess to fit the pump and all that modding is needed).
> Looks like even COSMOS II can`t hold a 360ish rad.
> So the question is: Should I rather go with a big enough case where two 240 rads can dwell?
> TBH: The only thing I want to put in the loop (atm) is my 3930K...I know a 360 or 2X240 might be overkill but
> I guess with a bigger rad (or two) I can keep the fan speeds down, right?
> Maybe I should mention that I have never build WC loop or anything like that - that is why I have strange questions, even after reseaching.
> Thanks in advance!


Snag the 800D with the RX kit.

You can put that RX360 up at the top with some low RPM fans and it'll do it's job, silently.

And you'll still have room at the bottom of that 800D for a second rad.

Goodluck


----------



## Mr.Eiht

The only problem that I have with the 800D is the strange airflow concept. I checked, a XSPC RX360 would fit in the switch810.
Anyway thank you so much for your help so far!


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Eiht*
> 
> The only problem that I have with the 800D is the strange airflow concept. I checked, a XSPC RX360 would fit in the switch810.
> Anyway thank you so much for your hep so far!


I see.

Well, goodluck and make sure you let us know what you decide on.


----------



## JMCB

Anyone know what size bolts I need to mount a Scythe Ultra Kaze fan to the RS360? I have two sitting around and was thinking about picking up a third with this newegg gift card I have laying around.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Eiht*
> 
> The only problem that I have with the 800D is the strange airflow concept. I checked, a XSPC RX360 would fit in the switch810.
> Anyway thank you so much for your help so far!


The switch has 90 mm clearance in the top and the top fans mount out side the case and get covered by the vents on top.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMCB*
> 
> Anyone know what size bolts I need to mount a Scythe Ultra Kaze fan to the RS360? I have two sitting around and was thinking about picking up a third with this newegg gift card I have laying around.


I think those are half inch. If you have 2 of them, measure them and what the size is, then get something that is slightly bigger.


----------



## jeffblute

inch 1/4 bolt if the fan is 25 mm, 6/32 thread if i remember correctly.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMCB*
> 
> Anyone know what size bolts I need to mount a Scythe Ultra Kaze fan to the RS360? I have two sitting around and was thinking about picking up a third with this newegg gift card I have laying around.


Normal 25mm fans (1in) use 1 1/4 in. screws, so Kaze fans are 38mm fans (1 1/2 in) will have to use 1 3/4in. screws. It is 6/32 thread as jeffblute mentioned.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> threw most of it away already. just have the bare chassis and hdd cage. that is it..... trying to find a case that I can put a 360 in the top and 240 in the bottem...


Azza solarno look at my build log im even gonna add a 120 rad tot he back just cause i can


----------



## japanesegorilla

Wow, you guys said that the tubing that comes with this kit would get nasty quickly and boy did it. I only used it for 5 days or so and it is already cloudy and sort of a yellowish color.

Also, do you have any suggestions for how to get it off of a barb?


----------



## jeffblute

if its on that tight, you might need to cut it .


----------



## DraXxus1549

I had good luck using a hair drier then rocking it back and forth. Even then it was a huge pain to remove.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Wow, you guys said that the tubing that comes with this kit would get nasty quickly and boy did it. I only used it for 5 days or so and it is already cloudy and sort of a yellowish color.
> Also, do you have any suggestions for how to get it off of a barb?


Once you've got it out of your computer just fill your sink or let the barb/tubing run under really, really hot water for about 20-30 seconds then remove the tubing from the barb(s) by moving it back and forth. It'll eventually come off.









Or, like others have said, you can cut it. But it's so much easier to remove when you soak them in hot water.


----------



## Mr.Eiht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> The switch has 90 mm clearance in the top and the top fans mount out side the case and get covered by the vents on top.


Yes, I read that 90mm. I was not sure where these 90mm are. But I saw some pics and it looks very doable. The RX360 is only 58.5mm so there might even fit some push fans.
Thank you so much for your help and saving me some more time researching. +REPed for sure!


----------



## jeffblute

you have enough for the rx style rad and a 25 mm fan on the inside of the Switch 810 case, the topside of the case has a removable "fin" section for another set of 25 mm fans giving you the push / pull set up:thumb:


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> you have enough for the rx style rad and a 25 mm fan on the inside of the Switch 810 case, the topside of the case has a removable "fin" section for another set of 25 mm fans giving you the push / pull set up:thumb:


The EX and RX cool about the same with fan speeds over 1200rpm (Chart 1). The major advantage performance wise that I see is with flow rates (Chart 2):

Chart 1


Chart 2
.

*Source*

I'll be adding an RX240 rad to my loop next week. Unfortunately, my Phantom case can't fit an RX + lower push fans up under the top panel, so I've had to settle for the slimmer radiator in a push/pull config.


----------



## wseroyer

I have a RS 240 kit, I have a 2700k at 1.4v OC to 4.8 I'm idling at 30,41,41,37 and in Prime 95 after about 1 hour of its at about 65,75,75,67. I've mounted and remounted the block about 10 times trying to get a better mount I need help, I'm stumped on this one.


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> That's how you'd normally setup the loop but loop order doesn't matter at all.
> Any reason for having the GPU first?
> I'm currently rockin' this setup and it's taming the heat flawlessly.
> Pump/Res > RS240 > 2600K > GTX470 > GTX 470 > RX240 > Pump/Res
> You should be good man, you could definitely pull off a SLI setup and not have to get anymore rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - Count me in for the club! See "Classified" rig in my sig for old pictures, and I'll post up the new loop and pics.


Great looking build, I have a 500R also, I was wandering could you stand the RX240 upright and have the front fans blow through it? I want to do this and I don't know if it would fit. I wanted to get a RX240 kit, but it will not fit in the top. also is the 750 enough pump for a RX and a RS?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> Great looking build, I have a 500R also, I was wandering could you stand the RX240 upright and have the front fans blow through it? I want to do this and I don't know if it would fit. I wanted to get a RX240 kit, but it will not fit in the top. also is the 750 enough pump for a RX and a RS?


I don't have a 500R.. I have a 650D.

Also, no, the RX won't fit standing up in the front. Unless you cut out some of the bays. However, if you remove the HDD cages, it will fit at the bottom with no issues whatsoever as shown in the pictures above.

As for the pump being enough, yes, it's plenty for my setup. I've got a RX and an RS 240 along with my Rasa blocks with 2 EK FC blocks on my GPU's running flawlessly with the 750 pump.


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> I don't have a 500R.. I have a 650D.
> Also, no, the RX won't fit standing up in the front. Unless you cut out some of the bays. However, if you remove the HDD cages, it will fit at the bottom with no issues whatsoever as shown in the pictures above.
> As for the pump being enough, yes, it's plenty for my setup. I've got a RX and an RS 240 along with my Rasa blocks with 2 EK FC blocks on my GPU's running flawlessly with the 750 pump.


nice can't wait to get mine then.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> nice can't wait to get mine then.


You can fit an RS up top on the 650D no problem. Possibly even an RX but you have enough room to do p/p on the RS rad.

But awesome, glad I could help ya out and make you post some pics when you get it all up and running so we can see that badboy


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> I have a RS 240 kit, I have a 2700k at 1.4v OC to 4.8 I'm idling at 30,41,41,37 and in Prime 95 after about 1 hour of its at about 65,75,75,67. I've mounted and remounted the block about 10 times trying to get a better mount I need help, I'm stumped on this one.


Huh, those temps seem kind of high. Have you messed with the core voltage at all to get it lower?

I am not sure if the 2700k is more power hungry than the 25/2600k. Have your temps always been this high with the RS240?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> I don't have a 500R.. I have a 650D.
> Also, no, the RX won't fit standing up in the front. Unless you cut out some of the bays. However, if you remove the HDD cages, it will fit at the bottom with no issues whatsoever as shown in the pictures above.
> As for the pump being enough, yes, it's plenty for my setup. I've got a RX and an RS 240 along with my Rasa blocks with 2 EK FC blocks on my GPU's running flawlessly with the 750 pump.


What are the hoses running outside the case for? Where do they go? A third rad?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> You can fit an RS up top on the 650D no problem. Possibly even an RX but you have enough room to do p/p on the RS rad.
> But awesome, glad I could help ya out and make you post some pics when you get it all up and running so we can see that badboy


What are the hoses running outside the case for? Where do they go? A third rad?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Huh, those temps seem kind of high. Have you messed with the core voltage at all to get it lower?
> I am not sure if the 2700k is more power hungry than the 25/2600k. Have your temps always been this high with the RS240?


Those temps are kind of high. Here's my thoughts..

- Bad mount on the block.
- Need better fans to move more air threw your rad.
- High ambient temp.
- Bad loop order? (I'll need to see pictures.)
- Try disabling HyperThreading and see what your temps drop down to.

Remember, HT puts off some extra heat, so that may be why. That, or his fans aren't moving enough air threw his rad, OR a bad mount. All I got atm..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> What are the hoses running outside the case for? Where do they go? A third rad?


I wish. It's actually because I need another 45* angle fitting and I ordered 2 instead of 3 by accident so I have to run the tubing outside my case so the tubing won't kink up and it'll stay on the fitting.









@wseroyer:

Couple of questions..

Are you running HT?
If you're using LLC, what is it set to?
Can you post pictures of your loop?
Have you ran P95 while having CPU-Z to see if your voltage is going up when the CPU is under load?
What kind of fans are you using and what RPM are they?

Sorry for all the questions, but if you can answer these we'll be a few steps closer to getting your problem resolved and hopefully get those temps down a tad









Although keep in mind, those are your temps while stress testing. Those are semi-resonable temps for P95 but not really for what you're cooling your chip with. The main temperatures you need to even be remotely concerned about are the temps while you're gaming or doing something that you do on daily basis rather than a stress testing program.


----------



## Hachi-chan

I'm new at this, so I have a few questions!

1) I'm planning to replace my Corsair H80 with a RS240 w/ four GT AP-15's in push/pull setup, is this good?
2) I saw it can fit into a 650D case, but can all of it fit in a push/pull setup?
3) I want to get red tubing too! Would this work? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292&products_id=24504
4) What kind of water (or fluid or whatever) do I need to use? I saw you can use just distilled water.

Thanks for answering my questions!


----------



## Bradey

hey, could someone please tell me the size of the RX120
thanks


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quick question, with the rasa cpu block does it matter which way it is oriented? For example with the in and out vertical instead of horizontal if that makes sense.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hachi-chan*
> 
> I'm new at this, so I have a few questions!
> 1) I'm planning to replace my Corsair H80 with a RS240 w/ four GT AP-15's in push/pull setup, is this good?
> 2) I saw it can fit into a 650D case, but can all of it fit in a push/pull setup?
> 3) I want to get red tubing too! Would this work? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292&products_id=24504
> 4) What kind of water (or fluid or whatever) do I need to use? I saw you can use just distilled water.
> Thanks for answering my questions!


1: That's awesome! AP-15's are essentially the best fans you can buy, not to mention they should pair up very nicely with that 240!
2: Yes. But you'll need to make sure that your motherboard won't get in the way of the fans.
3: That will work!
4: Just use distilled water + Kill Coil + PTNuke / Dead Water


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Quick question, with the rasa cpu block does it matter which way it is oriented? For example with the in and out vertical instead of horizontal if that makes sense.


Nope, I've mounted mine every which way possible, doesn't change a thing!


----------



## Hachi-chan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> 1: That's awesome! AP-15's are essentially the best fans you can buy, not to mention they should pair up very nicely with that 240!
> 2: Yes. But you'll need to make sure that your motherboard won't get in the way of the fans.
> 3: That will work!
> 4: Just use distilled water + Kill Coil + PTNuke / Dead Water


Thanks for answering, +Rep! Just one more question before I pull the trigger! Sorry!

5) I'm using a 1155 socket, do I need a backplate or somesorts?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hachi-chan*
> 
> Thanks for answering, +Rep! Just one more question before I pull the trigger! Sorry!
> 5) I'm using a 1155 socket, do I need a backplate or somesorts?


You will need a backplate.

Which all the backplates you'll need will come with your Rasa Kit!


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Huh, those temps seem kind of high. Have you messed with the core voltage at all to get it lower?
> I am not sure if the 2700k is more power hungry than the 25/2600k. Have your temps always been this high with the RS240?


Pics of my set up











This is what the block looked like when I took it off.



CPU after the block came off.



Me reapplying less thermal compound.



Idle temps after past was reapplied.



Running Prime 95 for a few minutes to see temps under load.



I dropped my votage 1.385v from 1.400v computer runs fine I still need to do testing. I could not get it to run prime 95 at 1.385v with out freezing after the first few minutes earlier this afternoon, but after a full day of experimenting it seems to want to hold it now, seemed to be stable still need to run it over night. This is for a 4.8GHZ oc BTW.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> Pics of my set up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the block looked like when I took it off.
> 
> CPU after the block came off.
> 
> Me reapplying less thermal compound.
> 
> Idle temps after past was reapplied.
> 
> Running Prime 95 for a few minutes to see temps under load.
> 
> I dropped my votage 1.385v from 1.400v computer runs fine I still need to do testing. I could not get it to run prime 95 at 1.385v with out freezing after the first few minutes earlier this afternoon, but after a full day of experimenting it seems to want to hold it now, seemed to be stable still need to run it over night. This is for a 4.8GHZ oc BTW.


Try gently turning the screws on your water block to tighten it down one by one while running prime and see if your temps drop.

I had the same problem when I first install my block. But after slow tightening each screw, I could watch my temps slowly drop. You may need to tighten down or loosen that block up to make a perfect contact with your chip.

Fans are facing the right way, loop looks good, whats your ambient temperature?

Edit - Nvm.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hachi-chan*
> 
> I'm new at this, so I have a few questions!
> 1) I'm planning to replace my Corsair H80 with a RS240 w/ four GT AP-15's in push/pull setup, is this good?!


Hi Hachi, Since you're getting those nice GT-15 high performance fans, you should think about the *EX240* , rather than the RS240. It's XCPC's newer model, same dimensions as the older RS240, but better performance. You may as well get the better radiator to begin with and not regret it later... Just a tip.


----------



## Bradey

i think he is going to get the kit not just the rad


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hey guys

I'm considering adding three Phoyba 20mm thick shrouds to my RX360 rad. Now I have three Yate Loon D12SH's in Pull Configuration and its there that I want to add the shroud spacing.

However I'm finding it hard to find 6-32 screws that would fit! I can only find 40mm screws, and with the 25mm fans and 20mm shroud thats already 45mm.

Does anyone know where I can pick up 6-32 screws that are at least 45mm in length, or longer? As I can't find any anywhere atm







and I really wanna try adding a shroud to see if it helps any with my delta t temps

Cheers

Matt


----------



## Los Hog

You can look though HERE to see if they have what you want


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> You can look though HERE to see if they have what you want


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Hey guys
> I'm considering adding three Phoyba 20mm thick shrouds to my RX360 rad. Now I have three Yate Loon D12SH's in Pull Configuration and its there that I want to add the shroud spacing.
> However I'm finding it hard to find 6-32 screws that would fit! I can only find 40mm screws, and with the 25mm fans and 20mm shroud thats already 45mm.
> Does anyone know where I can pick up 6-32 screws that are at least 45mm in length, or longer? As I can't find any anywhere atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I really wanna try adding a shroud to see if it helps any with my delta t temps
> Cheers
> Matt


Cheers for the link Los, however I'm in the UK.

Even they don't seem to have a the correct size either lol, they have a 42mm screw then straight upto 55mm screw and nothing inbetween. Think the 55mm would be a little too long. Not that it matters, it would cost way to much to ship them here


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> Me reapplying less thermal compound.


so honestly I would put even less than that.

literally a grain of rice does the trick.

just tossing in a few of my pennies


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> so honestly I would put even less than that.
> literally a grain of rice does the trick.
> just tossing in a few of my pennies


This.

Or putting a little all over the chip and manually spreading it yourself. What kind of TIM are you using?


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> This.
> Or putting a little all over the chip and manually spreading it yourself. What kind of TIM are you using?


I was under the impression that if you spread it yourself then tighten down the block you create air bubbles in the TIM.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> I was under the impression that if you spread it yourself then tighten down the block you create air bubbles in the TIM.


agreed you run a much higher risk of doing this. if you just put the small amount in the middle the pressure between the processor and the heatsink will do the spreading work for you and not run the risk of air bubbles.

also when you tighten down the screws, do it in a cross pattern. it will help insure an even spread of the tim.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> I was under the impression that if you spread it yourself then tighten down the block you create air bubbles in the TIM.


That's how I've done it for god knows how long. Never one issue, great temps all around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> agreed you run a much higher risk of doing this. if you just put the small amount in the middle the pressure between the processor and the heatsink will do the spreading work for you and not run the risk of air bubbles.
> also when you tighten down the screws, do it in a cross pattern. it will help insure an even spread of the tim.


I've never had any issues doing it the way I've stated above. Always worked flawlessly for me. But I won't get into that, because everyone has their own way of doing it, while some ways work for others, some may not.









All personal


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> That's how I've done it for god knows how long. Never one issue, great temps all around.
> I've never had any issues doing it the way I've stated above. Always worked flawlessly for me. But I won't get into that, because everyone has their own way of doing it, while some ways work for others, some may not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All personal


yea I definitely agree with you there, if it works for you don't stop doing it









that's one of two reasons I always suggest this way, because its always worked for me. the other reason is it does make it easier for beginners (which I was about a year ago)


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> yea I definitely agree with you there, if it works for you don't stop doing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's one of two reasons I always suggest this way, because its always worked for me. the other reason is it does make it easier for beginners (which I was about a year ago)


Truth be told. Either way, can't necessarily go wrong.


----------



## Soggyoggy

I am looking to get back into liquid cooling and I am looking into the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Kit, I have been hearing the RX360 kit is better but haven't been able to find out why. Also will the RS360 be able to handle a overclocked FX-8150 at say 4.8GHz-5.0GHz by adding a few extra fans for a push/pull method?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soggyoggy*
> 
> I am looking to get back into liquid cooling and I am looking into the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Kit, I have been hearing the RX360 kit is better but haven't been able to find out why. Also will the RS360 be able to handle a overclocked FX-8150 at say 4.8GHz-5.0GHz by adding a few extra fans for a push/pull method?


It should suffice. However, I'd just get the RX kit if you can fit it, then get some GT AP-15's and it will be more than enough. Plus you'll have room to add a GPU or something along the way if you decide to.


----------



## pvt.joker

the RX kit has the better radiator, and the 360 kit should be ok with the OC'd FX chip, just depends on your chip if you can get 5ghz under the temp threshold.


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Try gently turning the screws on your water block to tighten it down one by one while running prime and see if your temps drop.
> I had the same problem when I first install my block. But after slow tightening each screw, I could watch my temps slowly drop. You may need to tighten down or loosen that block up to make a perfect contact with your chip.
> Fans are facing the right way, loop looks good, whats your ambient temperature?
> Edit - Nvm.


Its like 34, 30, 33, 25


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> so honestly I would put even less than that.
> literally a grain of rice does the trick.
> just tossing in a few of my pennies


sounds good, I really don't feel like remounting it again.......


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> That's how I've done it for god knows how long. Never one issue, great temps all around.
> I've never had any issues doing it the way I've stated above. Always worked flawlessly for me. But I won't get into that, because everyone has their own way of doing it, while some ways work for others, some may not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All personal


I don't advise the spread method. I mean, I'm not sure what the actual temperature differences will be, but there is a high chance of getting air bubbles. See the following videos for visual evidence:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4&t=1m48s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffK7L0Qj13Q


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> sounds good, I really don't feel like remounting it again.......


lol i dont blame you on that one


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> I don't advise the spread method. I mean, I'm not sure what the actual temperature differences will be, but there is a high chance of getting air bubbles. See the following videos for visual evidence:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4&t=1m48s
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffK7L0Qj13Q


I agree. Spread method seems to be a bad idea. Grain of rice in the middle does the trick every time....


----------



## wseroyer

So I took the block back off,



and put less compound on



This is my idle temp, still seems high to me.



This is them running on prime 95 they seem ok, don't know why one core is 5c hotter then the other ones.



So after siting for a bit this is my idle temp now.


----------



## Kokin

Check to see if you have air bubbles trapped in your block. I had tiny ones in my GPU blocks and my temps went down 5C when I shook my case around and turned it upside down and side to side. Good luck!


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Check to see if you have air bubbles trapped in your block. I had tiny ones in my GPU blocks and my temps went down 5C when I shook my case around and turned it upside down and side to side. Good luck!


This.

Also, keep in mind that HT does put off some extra heat. That may be where the extra heat is coming from.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Do you have speedstep enabled? If you are at 4.8Ghz even when idling your idle temperatures will be higher. Have you used cpu-z or similar to look at what your voltages are at at idle?


----------



## george_orm

I agree with the others about air bubbles in the system, give ur rig a shake or two, upside down of possible, that's what can really mess's u :thumb:up, those pockets of air kill thermals


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> I agree with the others about air bubbles in the system, give ur rig a shake or two, upside down of possible, that's what can really mess's u :thumb:up, those pockets of air kill thermals


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> So I took the block back off,
> [
> So after siting for a bit this is my idle temp now.


I have also read that adding a tiny amount of dawn dish soap help to dissipate the air bubbles. Can anyone else confirm that?


----------



## selluminis

I am going to be setting my rig up starting tomorrow. Do I want my rad fans at full power at all times, or connect them to my mobo so the speeds can be variable?


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I am going to be setting my rig up starting tomorrow. Do I want my rad fans at full power at all times, or connect them to my mobo so the speeds can be variable?


Well that's basically up to you. Do mind having them blowing at max rpm? I've never really cared to let my system control fan speeds or to mess with software so I grabbed a fan controller.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I am going to be setting my rig up starting tomorrow. Do I want my rad fans at full power at all times, or connect them to my mobo so the speeds can be variable?


I just have mine running all the time. If the noise becomes a problem, then I'd suggest getting a fan controller vs hooking them up to your motherboard.


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Do you have speedstep enabled? If you are at 4.8Ghz even when idling your idle temperatures will be higher. Have you used cpu-z or similar to look at what your voltages are at at idle?


looks like my idle is 1.321V.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> looks like my idle is 1.321V.


I'm going to guess that you don't have speedstep or the other power saving features enabled in your BIOS. If you get those settings enabled, your system will lower your multiplier when at idle and drop your voltages accordingly.

For example, with my i7 860, at load my cpu is at 4.0Ghz (191MHz x 21) and a cpu voltage of 1.325V. However, at idle it drops down to 1.7GHz (191MHz x 9) and a cpu voltage of 1.025. Knocking .3V off at idle greatly reduces my idle temperatures.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Well that's basically up to you. Do mind having them blowing at max rpm? I've never really cared to let my system control fan speeds or to mess with software so I grabbed a fan controller.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> I just have mine running all the time. If the noise becomes a problem, then I'd suggest getting a fan controller vs hooking them up to your motherboard.


I was thinking about not hooking them up to the mobo as it would be way easier to run a molex string. Also, got the switch 810 today and it has a really cool "fan power distribution", for lack of a better term, pcb in the cable management area that will allow me to connect 7 fans, not using molex adapters, and then only connecting 1 molex plug to it. Really cool little idea. That will take care of most of my rad fans.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I was thinking about not hooking them up to the mobo as it would be way easier to run a molex string. Also, got the switch 810 today and it has a really cool "fan power distribution", for lack of a better term, pcb in the cable management area that will allow me to connect 7 fans, not using molex adapters, and then only connecting 1 molex plug to it. Really cool little idea. That will take care of most of my rad fans.


That's what I use on my 650D. Works great.

But as we were saying, if you're looking to not have them running at their full RPM then I'd suggest a fan controller.


----------



## Twitt

Just purchased RS360 Rasa Kit + Extra RS240.

Rasa Kit CPU Block on i5-2500k
Danger Den GPU Block on GTX 560 TI

CPU: i5-2500k 4.5GHZ 1.38v
GPU: gtx 560 ti 1ghz core clock 1.1v

Tempatures while running prime95+furmark
CPU temp: ~60c
GPU temp: ~50c

Very happy with results, my first watercooled build









PS: Guess I won the RNG game when it comes to pumps because mine is virtually silent.

Edit: Idle temps: ~25c on both CPU/GPU


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> That's what I use on my 650D. Works great.
> But as we were saying, if you're looking to not have them running at their full RPM then I'd suggest a fan controller.


this should be fine. Really don't want them at max RPM.


----------



## KuuFA

I am in a dilemma about fans..(I know they barely make a difference but I am going to be changing them out anyway).

I have a choice between 3 fansrad is mounted horizontally)

1.Yates High speed

2.XSPC Stock fans. IDK how to spell them but they are the Xiru-something fans.

3.These ultras I bought a while back when i didn't know about fans:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3478779&CatId=802


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> I am in a dilemma about fans..(I know they barely make a difference but I am going to be changing them out anyway).
> I have a choice between 3 fansrad is mounted horizontally)
> 1.Yates High speed
> 2.XSPC Stock fans. IDK how to spell them but they are the Xiru-something fans.
> 3.These ultras I bought a while back when i didn't know about fans:
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3478779&CatId=802


Fans can actually make quite a bit difference..

Yates are nice, but I would suggest a fan controller along with them. (Personal preference.)

Also, maybe consider some GT-AP14's or 15's. 1450RPM vs 1850, they move air VERY well, have good static pressure, and are BARELY audible. They're pricey but presumably the "best" fans you can buy. However, I use the stock XSPC fans, and GT's, love them both. No real experience with Yate's but XSPC fans on the RS rad, and my GT's on my RX, loop runs nice and cool.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Fans can actually make quite a bit difference..
> Yates are nice, but I would suggest a fan controller along with them. (Personal preference.)
> Also, maybe consider some GT-AP14's or 15's. 1450RPM vs 1850, they move air VERY well, have good static pressure, and are BARELY audible. They're pricey but presumably the "best" fans you can buy. However, I use the stock XSPC fans, and GT's, love them both. No real experience with Yate's but XSPC fans on the RS rad, and my GT's on my RX, loop runs nice and cool.


Yup with Yates high speed = you need a fan controller lol. Just so happens i have a Rheosmart and i put them around 50 percent power so its barely audible.

I would love to get GT's but they are just a bit steep for my taste right now....


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Yup with Yates high speed = you need a fan controller lol. Just so happens i have a Rheosmart and i put them around 50 percent power so its barely audible.
> I would love to get GT's but they are just a bit steep for my taste right now....


Lol yeah, for sure, but at least you got something for them.

Ah, yeah.. They are some expensive fans, but they're worth it!

Edit - I got my AP-14's for $14 off FrozenCPU, and I believe their AP-15's are only a dollar more..


----------



## .theMetal

+1 for yate loons

high static pressure + radiator = noticeable temperature drop


----------



## Los Hog

My vote goes for GT Ap-15's they cost more but there great fans


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> My vote goes for GT Ap-15's they cost more but there great fans


If you can find them in-stock anywhere..









Most places that do have them in stock are charging like $24 a fan!


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> If you can find them in-stock anywhere..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most places that do have them in stock are charging like $24 a fan!


yea hence a bit to steep for me lol.


----------



## Los Hog

Yea I paid about $230 just in fans for my last build


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Yea I paid about $230 just in fans for my last build


Wow...









I think I'd stick with my $14 AP-14's..


----------



## Los Hog

I am thinking using some ap-14s for my next build


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I am thinking using some ap-14s for my next build


They're really nice for the price. Gave me a noticeable difference in my temps, no to mention it's dead quiet no matter want. I say go for it.


----------



## The Sandman

Can I have six votes being I run 6 GT AP-15s?

When you hold one in your hands and examine it just a bit, you'll understand. Than the fun starts when you hook one up for a comparison. With a Rheosmart 6 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995075 they make an unbeatable combination. I run mine at 1340 rpm, very quiet and never see over 38c stress testing with prime95.


----------



## jeffblute

I am loving my Yate loons, But with my temps lately I think I screwed up on setting the block on my gpu. 36 C idle just seems like it is running warm compared to a lot of people who have theirs overclocked. Still better then the 45 - 47 C at idle with the stock cooler


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Fans can actually make quite a bit difference..
> Yates are nice, but I would suggest a fan controller along with them. (Personal preference.)
> Also, maybe consider some GT-AP14's or 15's. 1450RPM vs 1850, they move air VERY well, have good static pressure, and are BARELY audible. They're pricey but presumably the "best" fans you can buy. However, I use the stock XSPC fans, and GT's, love them both. No real experience with Yate's but XSPC fans on the RS rad, and my GT's on my RX, loop runs nice and cool.


I agree, the stock fans work really well. Been using just them on a pull config for my 240. Had that on a i5 2500k at 4.8 with 1.488 vcore and it was keeping it at 60C on max load. Can barely hear the fans. I got a really good deal on coolermaster sickle flows. Will be using the stock fans with those in push pull. Should work out nicely.


----------



## wseroyer

So I'm thinking about putting the thick 240MM rad in my case, its a Corsair 500r. it won't fit up top because I aready have a rad up there, and it won't clear my Motherboard, I'm wandering if I could take the HD cages out, and stick in standing up right in the front. does anyone know of anybody that has does this has done this with a 500R?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> So I'm thinking about putting the thick 240MM rad in my case, its a Corsair 500r. it won't fit up top because I aready have a rad up there, and it won't clear my Motherboard, I'm wandering if I could take the HD cages out, and stick in standing up right in the front. does anyone know of anybody that has does this has done this with a 500R?


If there is room, go for it. Have you taken measurements, or do you even have the new rad yet?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> So I'm thinking about putting the thick 240MM rad in my case, its a Corsair 500r. it won't fit up top because I aready have a rad up there, and it won't clear my Motherboard, I'm wandering if I could take the HD cages out, and stick in standing up right in the front. does anyone know of anybody that has does this has done this with a 500R?


It won't work unless you cut a bay or two out. I've already tried doing that in my 650D.

It's better if you can lay it down at the bottom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> I am loving my Yate loons, But with my temps lately I think I screwed up on setting the block on my gpu. 36 C idle just seems like it is running warm compared to a lot of people who have theirs overclocked. Still better then the 45 - 47 C at idle with the stock cooler


Idle temps really don't matter, it's your load temps that really matter.

36C isn't bad at all to be honest. Plus, you have to take your ambient temperature into consideration as well because your idle can't be lower than your ambient.


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> If there is room, go for it. Have you taken measurements, or do you even have the new rad yet?


No I've not ordered it yet just thinking.


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> It won't work unless you cut a bay or two out. I've already tried doing that in my 650D.
> It's better if you can lay it down at the bottom.
> Does't the 650d have a riser for the HD cages, There's only a vent for one fan.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Can I have six votes being I run 6 GT AP-15s?
> When you hold one in your hands and examine it just a bit, you'll understand. Than the fun starts when you hook one up for a comparison. With a Rheosmart 6 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995075 they make an unbeatable combination. I run mine at 1340 rpm, very quiet and never see over 38c stress testing with prime95.


well since i already have the Rheosmart i guess all i have to do is save for the ap15's but $20+ a fan is crazy......


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> well since i already have the Rheosmart i guess all i have to do is save for the ap15's but $20+ a fan is crazy......


They're only $15 on FrozenCPU!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> They're only $15 on FrozenCPU!


Yeah, but probably 15 to ship them as well.


----------



## Dustin1

Hey I don't know if any of you awesome fella's are interested but I'm selling both my 470's along with the waterblocks for a cheap price in the Marketplace. Definitely a nice buy for anyone looks for an awesome set of cards ready to be put on water.

Other than that, I will be getting rid of some of wc parts too, (still keeping the Rasa kit so I can still be in the club..







) so just giving you guys a heads up.

Anyhow OT: I'm pretty sure Frozen would charge that.. They're always high on shipping.


----------



## combateng

hey guys...iv got a question. my idle temps seem to be high compared to everyone else who has this kind of set up...i have a 2500k @ 4.6ghz and 1.36v and a rasa 750 with the rs240 rad...you guys can look at my full set up in pics/build log...my question is my idle temps seem a bit high, idles about 40ish and loads around 55...i know that load temp is not high at all, but for what everyone else says they get i feel like maybe i dont have something done right whether it being the cpu block or thermal paste or air in the rad or something...any help or suggestions would be much appriciated


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combateng*
> 
> hey guys...iv got a question. my idle temps seem to be high compared to everyone else who has this kind of set up...i have a 2500k @ 4.6ghz and 1.36v and a rasa 750 with the rs240 rad...you guys can look at my full set up in pics/build log...my question is my idle temps seem a bit high, idles about 40ish and loads around 55...i know that load temp is not high at all, but for what everyone else says they get i feel like maybe i dont have something done right whether it being the cpu block or thermal paste or air in the rad or something...any help or suggestions would be much appriciated


Well, the only reason my idle temps are so low is because I use the C1E features to downclock my chip when it's idle. So once C1E kicks in, my voltages drops tremendously, and my clock drops to 1.6Ghz so I get lower idles. However, temps are normal once under stress and or gaming, etc..


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Well, the only reason my idle temps are so low is because I use the C1E features to downclock my chip when it's idle. So once C1E kicks in, my voltages drops tremendously, and my clock drops to 1.6Ghz so I get lower idles. However, temps are normal once under stress and or gaming, etc..


I do the same thing.. Might as well keep the beast cooler when you can..


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Well, the only reason my idle temps are so low is because I use the C1E features to downclock my chip when it's idle. So once C1E kicks in, my voltages drops tremendously, and my clock drops to 1.6Ghz so I get lower idles. However, temps are normal once under stress and or gaming, etc..
> 
> 
> 
> I do the same thing.. Might as well keep the beast cooler when you can..
Click to expand...

It never should get a chance to clock down if you're folding 24/7


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> It never should get a chance to clock down if you're folding 24/7


haha.. my file server is the most likely candidate to be a folding machine (once it's rebuilt in a week or so)

also, anyone have thoughts about the upgraded RX360 Extreme kit that frozencpu offers over the regular RX360 kit? Roughly $100 more for the raystorm block, better pump (d5), xspc compression fittings, and your choice of xspc tubing color.. Worth the extra $100? Hadn't seen anywhere else offer anything similar so was just curious..


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> It never should get a chance to clock down if you're folding 24/7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha.. my file server is the most likely candidate to be a folding machine (once it's rebuilt in a week or so)
Click to expand...

My Xeon X3480 got delayed and won't be in till next week, so for now I have my 955 BE in my home server folding in it's place.


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Well, the only reason my idle temps are so low is because I use the C1E features to downclock my chip when it's idle. So once C1E kicks in, my voltages drops tremendously, and my clock drops to 1.6Ghz so I get lower idles. However, temps are normal once under stress and or gaming, etc..


so you think my temps are fine since i run it at 4.6 all the time then?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combateng*
> 
> so you think my temps are fine since i run it at 4.6 all the time then?


Those load temps are pretty low, so I would say yes. You can probably push it more towards 4.7-4.8ghz without seeing much rise in temp. I would be more worried if your temps were hitting 70-80C.


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Those load temps are pretty low, so I would say yes. You can probably push it more towards 4.7-4.8ghz without seeing much rise in temp. I would be more worried if your temps were hitting 70-80C.


iv head over 85 is the thresh hold you don't want to do for normal use...iv had it clocked to 5.2ghz and it hit about 75c on that...but i only try that for benches...for normal use id rather have a little bit less speed but A LOT less heat.....i just see other people with rigs just liek this saying they idle at 25-30 and load at 40c...thats what my concern is


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> well since i already have the Rheosmart i guess all i have to do is save for the ap15's but $20+ a fan is crazy......


Yes I agree, but there is nothing better. Same ole song and dance, if you wanna play... you have to pay. You won't be disappointed and they're definitely worth the wait. Truly nothing but quality. Watch/shop around a bit, Danger Den, Frozen CPU, Coolertech etc. They come and go, so when you see them grab a few. A simple push setup will work wonders till you have enough for P/P.


----------



## Ivan TSI

A little silly question, when using the radiator brackets of the kit to mount it externally like this (sorry for the photo jack):

How much up or down the radiator stays?


----------



## spRICE

Not exactly sure what you are asking. If you are asking how much it should wobble, then not much.


----------



## Ivan TSI

just the distance vs if the radiator was mounted directly to the case fan placement, how much up or down it will end up, like 1/2"


----------



## spRICE

Oh OK. I just measured it and it is about 1 inch (25mm).


----------



## Matt26LFC

Guys does this look ok for flow?






I'm toying with the idea of getting a new dual rad and throwing it on the back of my Antec1200 or getting a new pump, personally I'm thinking rad.

What you guys think?


----------



## selluminis

Here we go guys and gals. Enjoy. Let me know if you have any questions....









http://www.overclock.net/t/1220661/the-destroyer-810-2500k-nzxt-switch-810-evga-gtx-560-ti-448-classy-all-on-water/0_100#post_16557209


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Here we go guys and gals. Enjoy. Let me know if you have any questions....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1220661/the-destroyer-810-2500k-nzxt-switch-810-evga-gtx-560-ti-448-classy-all-on-water/0_100#post_16557209


Very nice.


----------



## japanesegorilla

So here is a quick shot of my system so far. I've still got some cable management stuff to do, mostly on the back side.


----------



## Los Hog

Very nice


----------



## wseroyer

Broke a fan blade help me!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> 
> Broke a fan blade help me!


Unplug it and use some industrial or auto grade super glue. It always works


----------



## Los Hog

Five min JB Weild


----------



## wseroyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Unplug it and use some industrial or auto grade super glue. It always works


I put some Krazy glue on there, I did not have any JB weld, normally do we used it to stick a water pump on to our lemons miatia one time I hope the pump on that car never goes out!!!!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wseroyer*
> 
> I put some Krazy glue on there, I did not have any JB weld, normally do we used it to stick a water pump on to our lemons miatia one time I hope the pump on that car never goes out!!!!


Krazy glue should work ok, but it's not too strong of a super glue. Just make sure you let it dry for a few hours and test it out before placing it back to your rad.


----------



## douglatins

Anyone with a RX360 can say their temps and proc? I have a 930 at 4Ghz and i need some temp check


----------



## Yodums

I just purchased a RS240 kit from Performance-PCS.com. I checked around, and they were the only vendor that had it in stock and had a reasonable price for shipping to Canada. Order was processed very quickly, and I can't wait to receive it. I was originally happy with the H80, but then I realized how poor of an AIO watercooling solution it really is.


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Anyone with a RX360 can say their temps and proc? I have a 930 at 4Ghz and i need some temp check


Post your temps idle/load and ambient if you can and i'm sure someone can let ya know if you're running higher than should be expected.


----------



## douglatins

Idle is 50C and load is 80C. Ambient is 28C. I7 is 4ghz 1.24v


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Idle is 50C and load is 80C. Ambient is 28C. I7 is 4ghz 1.24v


Dude those temps look way to high, even with a 28C Ambient!!

I suggest making sure all the air is out of your loop, if that doesn't work re-mount the CPU block!


----------



## Ryanhabs

I figure this is the best place to ask. I was looking at picking up this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Rasa_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310

Just wanted some peoples thoughts that own other XSPC products.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> I figure this is the best place to ask. I was looking at picking up this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Rasa_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> Just wanted some peoples thoughts that own other XSPC products.
> Thanks in advance.


haha.. i found that upgraded kit too, posted a couple pages back about it.. looks like a good deal to me (been debating it myself, but only if i can secure a pair of gtx 470 blocks first)


----------



## Ryanhabs

My thoughts are that the uprated pump would leave more room for expansion. I currently have a single gtx 580 ultra and I'm adding a 2nd later this week when it comes in. I alreay ordered both evga hydrocopper blocks and the backplates for the 2 cards so that would leave the system cooling my I% and 2 580 classifieds and I think it would be the best choice out of the XSPC kits. I was just looking for some other opinions from current xspc system owners if I really need the 299 dollar kit or it the regular rasa 360 kit would work. I think I will go with the extreme anyways as it has the uprated pump and the raystorm cpu block.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> I figure this is the best place to ask. I was looking at picking up this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Rasa_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> Just wanted some peoples thoughts that own other XSPC products.
> Thanks in advance.


Dazmode has those new kits but with EX rads, ~$300 shipped (EX240 D5 pump kit)
I am just waiting for the tubing, when primochill sorts out their problem i will just get UV Blue tubing and done.


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> I figure this is the best place to ask. I was looking at picking up this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Rasa_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> 
> Just wanted some peoples thoughts that own other XSPC products.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Its a very good kit !! It has a better pump in the 655 than the old kit and better fittings


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*
> 
> Dazmode has those new kits but with EX rads, ~$300 shipped (EX240 D5 pump kit)
> I am just waiting for the tubing, when primochill sorts out their problem i will just get UV Blue tubing and done.


hadn't heard about any issues with the primochill tubing? what's the issue?


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> hadn't heard about any issues with the primochill tubing? what's the issue?


Plasticizer build up.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/severe-plasticizer-in-primochill-lrt


----------



## phillyd

got my Rasa 750 dual 5.25" res/pump


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Plasticizer build up.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/severe-plasticizer-in-primochill-lrt


that's quite a thread to read.. lots of possible culprits.. i haven't run clear tubing in probably 8-9 yrs, so hard to tell. Something to think about anyway..


----------



## Nemesis429

Hey guys, how thick are the RX rads?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis429*
> 
> Hey guys, how thick are the RX rads?


58.5mm, however there seems to be a mistake in the XSPC site as it says 63mm, but most online retailers are stating 58.5mm.

http://www.svc.com/rx360.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsrxtr12ra.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8523/ex-rad-146/XSPC_RX360_Triple_120mm_Radiator_Rev_2.html

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/rx-series/rx360-triple-fan-radiator/


----------



## Nemesis429

Cheers, it's because i'm gonna a fit 240 in the front and 120 in the back of my Antec 300 and it looks as if it will fit.


----------



## SergAkaDuHa

Hey guys,

I am thinking about putting my computer under water but i am not sure if its worth doing it tho. I have 955BE as you can see my specs its running at 3.9GHz @1.375 which is pretty good. I have tried 4.1 and it seems to be stable at 1.45v but current cooler cant really handle it well as it gets pretty hot down here in Melbourne.

My question is will there be a big difference between my current cooler and _XSPC Rasa 450 RX120 or XSPC Rasa 750 RS240_ ???

Also will it fit inside my Case?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Ivan TSI

XSPC Rasa 450 RX120 => uses a smaller pum/reservior, and a 120mm radiator (~58mm thick)
XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 => uses a bigger pum/reservior than ^, a 240mm radiator (~35mm thick) < best of the 2


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> that's quite a thread to read.. lots of possible culprits.. i haven't run clear tubing in probably 8-9 yrs, so hard to tell. Something to think about anyway..


It's all of primochill tubing, not only the clear one's
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/severe-plasticizer-in-primochill-lrt/340
They told one someone in a email that it was a bad batch so only time will tell if it was that or anything else.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SergAkaDuHa*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I am thinking about putting my computer under water but i am not sure if its worth doing it tho. I have 955BE as you can see my specs its running at 3.9GHz @1.375 which is pretty good. I have tried 4.1 and it seems to be stable at 1.45v but current cooler cant really handle it well as it gets pretty hot down here in Melbourne.
> My question is will there be a big difference between my current cooler and _XSPC Rasa 450 RX120 or XSPC Rasa 750 RS240_ ???
> Also will it fit inside my Case?
> Thanks in advance


I'll just say this, my CPU Temps went from 30c idle on air to and average of 15 to 17c idle on water and 55 to 60c load to a max load of 48c on water all that with the RS240 kit! So to sum up I'd say it's worth it and I held off water cooling for years because I didn't think it was worth it and now I wished I'd done it years ago!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'll just say this, my CPU Temps went from 30c idle on air to and average of 15 to 17c idle on water and 55 to 60c load to a max load of 48c on water all that with the RS240 kit! So to sum up I'd say it's worth it and I held off water cooling for years because I didn't think it was worth it and now I wished I'd done it years ago!


I fully agree.....









Plus it looks cool.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'll just say this, my CPU Temps went from 30c idle on air to and average of 15 to 17c idle on water and 55 to 60c load to a max load of 48c on water all that with the RS240 kit! So to sum up I'd say it's worth it and I held off water cooling for years because I didn't think it was worth it and now I wished I'd done it years ago!


Geeze, 15C idle? Your ambient temperatures must be so cold.


----------



## combateng

hey guys...im still getting abnormally high temps i believe for my set up....any suggestions would help as to what/why this may be...
i have a 2500k @ 4.6ghz and 1.36-1.38v with the rasa 750 240 kit....if you look at my pics, you see i have the kits 240 rad on top before cpu, a 120 rad after cpu before sli'ed 460s, and i just put in another 240 ex series Rad after the GPUs before going back into the res....my ambient temp is normally around 75f/which is 23.8c, and my cpu idle temps are around mid 30s and loads about 50-55ish. I am just dumb founded with so many people saying they are getting idles in the 20s or teens and load temps around the 30-40 range.
i have already pulled the cpu block and re pasted it, think that helped a bit cause there was a few bare spots with the last method i used (spread with card) this time i did the pea drop in the center and let the block expand it. and I also do not hear any air in my loop, maybe there is and i cant hear it...what is the best method for making sure there is no air in loop?
I just want to know what you guys think and why my temps are so high even with having 3 radiators!!!!


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combateng*
> 
> hey guys...im still getting abnormally high temps i believe for my set up....any suggestions would help as to what/why this may be...
> i have a 2500k @ 4.6ghz and 1.36-1.38v with the rasa 750 240 kit....if you look at my pics, you see i have the kits 240 rad on top before cpu, a 120 rad after cpu before sli'ed 460s, and i just put in another 240 ex series Rad after the GPUs before going back into the res....my ambient temp is normally around 75f/which is 23.8c, and my cpu idle temps are around mid 30s and loads about 50-55ish. I am just dumb founded with so many people saying they are getting idles in the 20s or teens and load temps around the 30-40 range.
> i have already pulled the cpu block and re pasted it, think that helped a bit cause there was a few bare spots with the last method i used (spread with card) this time i did the pea drop in the center and let the block expand it. and I also do not hear any air in my loop, maybe there is and i cant hear it...what is the best method for making sure there is no air in loop?
> I just want to know what you guys think and why my temps are so high even with having 3 radiators!!!!


First, I don't think your temperatures are that high at all. You are never going to see temperatures below ambient with regular water cooling. If your ambient is approx. 24C, then that is the lowest you will ever see, but even then realistically you will probably still be a few degrees higher than ambient.

Second, you are cooling a couple of video cards which tend to idle a lot hotter than a cpu. Are you comparing your temperatures to people who are also cooling 2 460s, or to people who are just cooling a cpu?

Third, do you have things like speedstep and the power saving states enabled? You haven't actually told us what your settings are at idle. Are you at 4.6GHz all the time, even at idle? What is your cpu voltage at idle?


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> First, I don't think your temperatures are that high at all. You are never going to see temperatures below ambient with regular water cooling. If your ambient is approx. 24C, then that is the lowest you will ever see, but even then realistically you will probably still be a few degrees higher than ambient.
> Second, you are cooling a couple of video cards which tend to idle a lot hotter than a cpu. Are you comparing your temperatures to people who are also cooling 2 460s, or to people who are just cooling a cpu?
> Third, do you have things like speedstep and the power saving states enabled? You haven't actually told us what your settings are at idle. Are you at 4.6GHz all the time, even at idle? What is your cpu voltage at idle?


everything i have read i have seen people with idle temps even with sli'ed cards are lower then mine, and my clock is always at 4.6 and voltage at 1.36-1.38...when i had things like c1e and all those power saving features enabled my temps were only a few degrees c lower but it made my game play, mainly BF3 choppy where it almost looked like lag...once i disabled those power saving states it went away so i cant see myself being able to use them if it makes game play worse even at the slightest..

now i know ambient temp is the key...i mean when its cold out and its 65f in my room then the temp drops almost 10c...i just feel like for some reason my temps are higher then should be, thinking they should be around the low 30s to high 20s idle and mid 40s to 50 load. and my video cards idle around 25-30c as they are right now fyi.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Geeze, 15C idle? Your ambient temperatures must be so cold.


Yeah ambient's are running about 70F right now give or take a bit, but I'm sure that my temps will go up some come summer when it's 110F outside and my ambient temps in my room average around 78F but I won't know till the heat arrives


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yeah ambient's are running about 70F right now give or take a bit, but I'm sure that my temps will go up some come summer when it's 110F outside and my ambient temps in my room average around 78F but I won't know till the heat arrives


Even so, 70F is still around 21C, so you can't be idle at 15-17C.

Not trying to be disrespectful but come on matey, you know thats not happening.

As for Combateng, japanesegorilla is right there are many things to consider when comparing temps. Also most people are always underwhelmed when they see their CPU temps, usually WC will knock off around 10C in load temps when coming from a good aircooler. I know I certainly was when I got mine.

Best thing to do is install temp sensors in your loop, at least 3 of them, so you can determine your own delta t and then work on decreasing it.

In the meantime, have you ensured that all the air is out, maybe an air trapped somewhere.


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Even so, 70F is still around 21C, so you can't be idle at 15-17C.
> Not trying to be disrespectful but come on matey, you know thats not happening.
> As for Combateng, japanesegorilla is right there are many things to consider when comparing temps. Also most people are always underwhelmed when they see their CPU temps, usually WC will knock off around 10C in load temps when coming from a good aircooler. I know I certainly was when I got mine.
> Best thing to do is install temp sensors in your loop, at least 3 of them, so you can determine your own delta t and then work on decreasing it.
> In the meantime, have you ensured that all the air is out, maybe an air trapped somewhere.


thats what i was thinking about air may be trapped...but i have no idea on how to check...i hear nothing in the loop as far as a trapped air bubble being turned around by passing water and when i water testing and filling the loop i picked up the case and turned it over and around every which way to make the air bubbles wanna go to the high side and get pushed into the res. so im all out of ideas.


----------



## pale

Wow, just went to buy a 240 Rasa kit and both the RS & RX kits are both out of stock EVERYWHERE.(UK)

Going on holiday in the morning so was buying it now so it would be on my doorstep when I get back.

Can't find any UK retailer with them in stock... can't go EK as their kit won't fit in my A300.

Makes me want to pick out a custom loop... got a couple of hours to decide. whatever happens, i need a 5.25 pump/res involved...
...


----------



## Ryanhabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pale*
> 
> Wow, just went to buy a 240 Rasa kit and both the RS & RX kits are both out of stock EVERYWHERE.(UK)
> Going on holiday in the morning so was buying it now so it would be on my doorstep when I get back.
> Can't find any UK retailer with them in stock... can't go EK as their kit won't fit in my A300.
> Makes me want to pick out a custom loop... got a couple of hours to decide. whatever happens, i need a 5.25 pump/res involved...
> ...


LOL, its seems to be looking the same here across the pond, mate. I was going to place my order but the only kit in stock @ Frozencpu.com is the rs360 kit. They have the RX360 extreme kit in stock but only have amd blocks... I have to wait until they have the intel blocks back instock.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Not trying to be disrespectful but come on matey, you know thats not happening.


core temps? ive had them as low as 12 with underclocks.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> LOL, its seems to be looking the same here across the pond, mate. I was going to place my order but the only kit in stock @ Frozencpu.com is the rs360 kit. They have the RX360 extreme kit in stock but only have amd blocks... I have to wait until they have the intel blocks back instock.


If you are just looking for the normal xspc kits, check here: http://www.svc.com/water-cooling-kit.html


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> core temps? ive had them as low as 12 with underclocks.


Surely its physics mate, your not going to cool your CPU to under ambient air when its that air that your using to cool the chip with. Only by using chillers or TECs or Bong's can you manage below ambient cooling. Your chip isn't running at 12C.


----------



## pvt.joker

Everybody is spending tax return money..


----------



## douglatins

Ok since my RX360 and 38mm fans wont fit in my haf X i decided t put it outside, but for not having an empty space i got a MCR360 with 3 YL.


----------



## Ryanhabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> If you are just looking for the normal xspc kits, check here: http://www.svc.com/water-cooling-kit.html


awesome! thanks man! I'll have to sort through and piece some stuff together and I'll probably be placing my order tomorrow morning


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Even so, 70F is still around 21C, so you can't be idle at 15-17C.
> Not trying to be disrespectful but come on matey, you know thats not happening.
> As for Combateng, japanesegorilla is right there are many things to consider when comparing temps. Also most people are always underwhelmed when they see their CPU temps, usually WC will knock off around 10C in load temps when coming from a good aircooler. I know I certainly was when I got mine.
> Best thing to do is install temp sensors in your loop, at least 3 of them, so you can determine your own delta t and then work on decreasing it.
> In the meantime, have you ensured that all the air is out, maybe an air trapped somewhere.


Okay if the thermometer that I'm using to measure my ambient temps is remotely accurate then my core temps are running about 1C over ambient. I'll check to see what my ambient temps are first things in the morning I'm guessing they are closer to 60F first thing in the morning right now, that will change as summer gets closer however. I'm going to guess that I'll have core temps around 25C at idle this summer which will be about 8 to 10 C lower than I got with my Zalman 9700 air cooler. This is just a guess though and since I'm not sure if my thermometer is accurate I'm going to look into a new one so I can recheck my ambient temps. Anyway Matt26LFC you're just being honest so no disrespect taken







I'm also going to start turning on HWmonitor first thing in the morning so I can get a low and high core temp reading, but regardless going from Air to water significantly reduced my core temps and was well worth it.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> core temps? ive had them as low as 12 with underclocks.
> 
> 
> 
> Surely its physics mate, your not going to cool your CPU to under ambient air when its that air that your using to cool the chip with. Only by using chillers or TECs or Bong's can you manage below ambient cooling. Your chip isn't running at 12C.
Click to expand...

i know
core temps are usually 10C off


----------



## anubis1127

I'm getting ready to replace my RS240 radiator with an EX240, and a EX120, does anybody have any tips for flushing the radiators out without having a spare pump/filters to use?

When I originally installed my kit, I just had a funnel on one end of tubing connected to a barb, and a length of tubing going into my sink, and just dumped a bunch of distilled through until I didn't see any more floaties coming out. Is there a faster/better method I'm not thinking of?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> I'm getting ready to replace my RS240 radiator with an EX240, and a EX120, does anybody have any tips for flushing the radiators out without having a spare pump/filters to use?
> 
> When I originally installed my kit, I just had a funnel on one end of tubing connected to a barb, and a length of tubing going into my sink, and just dumped a bunch of distilled through until I didn't see any more floaties coming out. Is there a faster/better method I'm not thinking of?


flush it with tap water--tape one tube onto the end of the faucet, then do what you did with distilled water.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> flush it with tap water--tape one tube onto the end of the faucet, then do what you did with distilled water.


cool, that's pretty much what I ended up doing, minus the tape.


----------



## LusHKiLL

Hi everyone.
I just finshed up building my XSPC/Swiftech water cooling PC. I'm running a Rasa 750 RX 360 with 2 Swiftech Komodo-HD6900 GPU waterblocks.I got a sweet deal on 3 Komodo-HD6900 waterblocks at the MicroCenter in St. Davids PA for $150 .Got the extra one for a backup or to use if I decide to add a 3rd GPU.I have the GPU waterblocks in a parallel setup like Swiftech recomends. I got XSPC compression fittings to use in place of the barb fittings that came with the Rasa kit. I'm using distilled water ,Primochill tubing with a silver kill coil. I had to get a new case that would fit the RX360 rad. I checked out Boatload of cases that would fit the rad. All of the cases that would fit the rad where $250 or more. But after a bit of searching I found a case that would fit the rad on the top of the case. I got a Thermaltake Overseer RX-I case for $100 after rebate at Comp Usa in Delaware. Case has 2 200x200x30 mm fans in top of the case.I did some modding to the top of case with a Dremal and the rad fits right in. I still have use of the HDDDocking Station and all of the usb ports. The rad and fans stick out about 2 inches from the top of the case. I have the fans mounted on top of the rad in a pull setup. Have the 2 200x200x30 mm fans 1 in the side,1 in the front and the 120x120x25 mm rear fan all setup as intake fans. So I have intake air flow being pulled in from the front,side and the rear of the case. With the top 3 rad fans as the exhaust exit this airflow setup works perfectly. I also had to mod the drive bays since case only had 3 5.25 slots and 1 3.5 bay that looks like a 5.25 bay. I needed 4 5.25 bays to fit my DVD drive,XSPC res/pump and my Zalman ZM-MFZ2. It's a fan control/monitor, temp monitor and system power draw monitor. So modded the 3.5 drive bay into a 5.25 drive bay.

I'll post some pics of my PC later on tonight after I get home from work.

My PC specs are:

Intel [email protected] GHz
MSI P55-GD65 motherboard
2 XFX HD6950's bios modded to HD6970'[email protected]/1400MHz
XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 with 2 Swiftech Komodo-HD6900 waterblocks
16GB Corsair Dominator XMP DDR3 8-8-8-24 @1760Mhz
2 Western Digital Black 1TB 64mb cache hd's in raid 0
Bigfoot Networks Killer 2100 nic card (Christmas gift I got from friend)
Thermaltake Overseer RX-I Full Tower Case
RaidMax RX-1200AE CFX/SLI Modular Power Supply
Acer S273HL 27 inch LED monitor
Windows 7 ultimate 64 bit


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LusHKiLL*
> 
> Hi everyone.
> I just finshed up building my XSPC/Swiftech water cooling PC. I'm running a Rasa 750 RX 360 with 2 Swiftech Komodo-HD6900 GPU waterblocks.I got a sweet deal on 3 Komodo-HD6900 waterblocks at the MicroCenter in St. Davids PA for $150 .Got the extra one for a backup or to use if I decide to add a 3rd GPU.I have the GPU waterblocks in a parallel setup like Swiftech recomends. I got XSPC compression fittings to use in place of the barb fittings that came with the Rasa kit. I'm using distilled water ,Primochill tubing with a silver kill coil. I had to get a new case that would fit the RX360 rad. I checked out Boatload of cases that would fit the rad. All of the cases that would fit the rad where $250 or more. But after a bit of searching I found a case that would fit the rad on the top of the case. I got a Thermaltake Overseer RX-I case for $100 after rebate at Comp Usa in Delaware. Case has 2 200x200x30 mm fans in top of the case.I did some modding to the top of case with a Dremal and the rad fits right in. I still have use of the HDDDocking Station and all of the usb ports. The rad and fans stick out about 2 inches from the top of the case. I have the fans mounted on top of the rad in a pull setup. Have the 2 200x200x30 mm fans 1 in the side,1 in the front and the 120x120x25 mm rear fan all setup as intake fans. So I have intake air flow being pulled in from the front,side and the rear of the case. With the top 3 rad fans as the exhaust exit this airflow setup works perfectly. I also had to mod the drive bays since case only had 3 5.25 slots and 1 3.5 bay that looks like a 5.25 bay. I needed 4 5.25 bays to fit my DVD drive,XSPC res/pump and my Zalman ZM-MFZ2. It's a fan control/monitor, temp monitor and system power draw monitor. So modded the 3.5 drive bay into a 5.25 drive bay.
> I'll post some pics of my PC later on tonight after I get home from work.
> My PC specs are:
> Intel [email protected] GHz
> MSI P55-GD65 motherboard
> 2 XFX HD6950's bios modded to HD6970'[email protected]/1400MHz
> XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 with 2 Swiftech Komodo-HD6900 waterblocks
> 16GB Corsair Dominator XMP DDR3 8-8-8-24 @1760Mhz
> 2 Western Digital Black 1TB 64mb cache hd's in raid 0
> Bigfoot Networks Killer 2100 nic card (Christmas gift I got from friend)
> Thermaltake Overseer RX-I Full Tower Case
> RaidMax RX-1200AE CFX/SLI Modular Power Supply
> Acer S273HL 27 inch LED monitor
> Windows 7 ultimate 64 bit


Can't wait to see these pics.....


----------



## pahoran

been reading this thread since the first pages, im ready to buy my kit but its out of sock everywhere









im thinking of getting the RX 240 kit but its way too FAT with the fans in push for my case, the infamous PowerMac G5.

Im thinking of buying the Rasa 750 kit with the RS 240 then buying the EX240 separate will be using the classic AP-15's in push.
I have a i5 2500K at stock and a 6870 at stock too. was thinking of buying a universal GPU block and over clock my i5 2500k

any input appreciated.

P0w


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pahoran*
> 
> been reading this thread since the first pages, im ready to buy my kit but its out of sock everywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im thinking of getting the RX 240 kit but its way too FAT with the fans in push for my case, the infamous PowerMac G5.
> Im thinking of buying the Rasa 750 kit with the RS 240 then buying the EX240 separate will be using the classic AP-15's in push.
> I have a i5 2500K at stock and a 6870 at stock too. was thinking of buying a universal GPU block and over clock my i5 2500k
> any input appreciated.
> P0w


I just upgraded my RS240 to an EX240 and EX120, right now it's cooling my i3 530, and GTX580. I just got everything put back together and powered up, but so far I'm digging it. CPU stock is at 45C after 15 min IBT. GPU got up to 41C using Kombuster, but I'll try some heaven, and gaming late. Right now I'm going to start overclocking this CPU.


----------



## Ryanhabs

http://www.svc.com/water-cooling-kit.html <-- link provided by JapaneseGorilla
and the prices here are a little less than Frozen cpu. I ordered the rasa 750 rx360 and then also ordered a Raystorm cpu block to swap it right away instead of doing so later.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pahoran*
> 
> been reading this thread since the first pages, im ready to buy my kit but its out of sock everywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im thinking of getting the RX 240 kit but its way too FAT with the fans in push for my case, the infamous PowerMac G5.
> Im thinking of buying the Rasa 750 kit with the RS 240 then buying the EX240 separate will be using the classic AP-15's in push.
> I have a i5 2500K at stock and a 6870 at stock too. was thinking of buying a universal GPU block and over clock my i5 2500k
> any input appreciated.
> P0w


Yeah, SVC.com is great. I had the same idea that you did. I ordered a RS240 kit and a EX360 from them a couple weeks ago. It's super overkill because I'm only cooling my cpu at the moment, but it leaves me plenty of reserve whenever I get a new gpu and WC it.

Hopefully XSPC will come out with new kits that include the raystorm and EX rads instead of RS rads.


----------



## pahoran

just checked svc.com and the rasa 750 rs240 is out of stock









POw


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pahoran*
> 
> just checked svc.com and the rasa 750 rs240 is out of stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> POw


It looks like Xoxide has them in stock: xoxide RS240 kit

[edit] lol, right after I posted that link, they updated it to out of stock. oops.


----------



## DarkNation

just built my first ever wc loop










also wondering is there a way to avoid the no CPU fan error at startup it gets annoying going into BIOS then exiting just to startup windows.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkNation*
> 
> just built my first ever wc loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also wondering is there a way to avoid the no CPU fan error at startup it gets annoying going into BIOS then exiting just to startup windows.


Well without knowing what motherboard you have there is really no way that we can answer your question.


----------



## DarkNation

its a P8Z68-V GEN3


----------



## spRICE

In the BIOS there should be an option somewhere that says ignore all errors except for keyboard.


----------



## DarkNation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE*
> 
> In the BIOS there should be an option somewhere that says ignore all errors except for keyboard.


thanks!


----------



## pvt.joker

you could probably also disable fan monitoring in the bios so it wouldn't even register as an error.


----------



## RonB94GT

So I hear the pump is rubish.http://www.overclock.net/t/392179/the-official-cooler-master-haf-x-932-922-912-club/17970#post_16609943


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*
> 
> So I hear the pump is rubish.http://www.overclock.net/t/392179/the-official-cooler-master-haf-x-932-922-912-club/17970#post_16609943


Its not the strongest pump out there, but its doing ok in my rig. Running 1 CPU block, 2 GPU blocks (parallel) and RX360 rad.

Running GPUs in Parallel helps with restriction which is better for your pump, also the Raystorm is one of the less restrictive blocks out there, so if you buy smart it will also help. I may upgrade my pump in the future when I add another Rad. I'll have to see how it goes with 3 blocks and 2 rads.


----------



## RonB94GT

I've had no issues with mine. It has even been silent since day one. It's about 1 yr old now.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*
> 
> So I hear the pump is rubish.http://www.overclock.net/t/392179/the-official-cooler-master-haf-x-932-922-912-club/17970#post_16609943


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*
> 
> I've had no issues with mine. It has even been silent since day one. It's about 1 yr old now.


Wait what? Did you just criticize the pump and then post again supporting it?


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Wait what? Did you just criticize the pump and then post again supporting it?


I didn't critize anything. That link isn't my comment it was something I read in a thread. I'm perfectly happy with mine as most people on here are.

I said I hear it's rubbish. Not that it is.


----------



## Juiced

RX360 kit + EX120 + 2x MCW82 + Swiftech Triplebrdige + XSPC DFI UT X58-T3EH8 full block
not the finished look, ordered 90/45 degrees compression fitting







temporary


temporary


temporary


----------



## Kokin

^Looks amazingly overkill, but that's what OCN is all about.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*
> 
> I didn't critize anything. That link isn't my comment it was something I read in a thread. I'm perfectly happy with mine as most people on here are.
> I said I hear it's rubbish. Not that it is.


It's rubbish against other pumps, but it does the job well enough to be used by many people.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It's rubbish against other pumps, but it does the job well enough to be used by many people.


Well put. I haven't had any issues with my pump in the last 7 months of operation, I guess time will tell how long it lasts.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> you could probably also disable fan monitoring in the bios so it wouldn't even register as an error.


That is what I did. Don't really like the idea of ignoring all errors. I just went into advanced, I think, and set it to ignore the CPU fan error.


----------



## Flikka

What fans, rpm wise would be a good choice for the EX360? I dont have a lot of options but currently considering these:

Cooler Master Sickleflow 2000 RPM (Sleeve Bearing)
Zalman ZM-F3 1800 RPM (Sleeve Bearing)
Zalman ZM-F3 FDB 1500 RPM (FDB Bearing)
CoolerMaster R4-S2B-124K-GP, Quad pack 1200 RPM (Double Ball Bearing)
Deepcool Ice Blade or Wind Blade (Hydro Bearing)

Considered the Arctic Cooling Arctic F12 but the lack of a dedicated 3 pin connector seems very annoying.

Please help me out here, at a loss.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flikka*
> 
> What fans, rpm wise would be a good choice for the EX360? I dont have a lot of options but currently considering these:
> Cooler Master Sickleflow 2000 RPM (Sleeve Bearing)
> Zalman ZM-F3 1800 RPM (Sleeve Bearing)
> Zalman ZM-F3 FDB 1500 RPM (FDB Bearing)
> CoolerMaster R4-S2B-124K-GP, Quad pack 1200 RPM (Double Ball Bearing)
> Deepcool Ice Blade or Wind Blade (Hydro Bearing)
> Considered the Arctic Cooling Arctic F12 but the lack of a dedicated 3 pin connector seems very annoying.
> Please help me out here, at a loss.


What are you cooling with that rad? CPU only? CPU+GPU?

I think choosing the fans depends on the heat load your trying to get shot of.


----------



## Flikka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> What are you cooling with that rad? CPU only? CPU+GPU?
> I think choosing the fans depends on the heat load your trying to get shot of.


Very true, should have been more clear. The EX360 will cool the CPU for now and when funds permit I will add a 240 rad and include a GPU and later a second GPU. Hope that clears it up a bit. Thanks


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flikka*
> 
> Very true, should have been more clear. The EX360 will cool the CPU for now and when funds permit I will add a 240 rad and include a GPU and later a second GPU. Hope that clears it up a bit. Thanks


I'd consider some XSPC 1200RPM fans, there cheap and do a good job! At 1200RPM they outperform an RX360 with fans running at 1200RPM

Really is no need to go High RPM personally I'd prefer quiet over a degree or two drop in temps. Since your planning on a second rad also theres even less of a need to go with higher RPM. I plan on expanding my loop from one RX360 to RX360+240.

Currently My two 6950s don't go above 40C @ 840Mhz 1325Mhz and CPU @ 4.2Ghz HT on all on one RX360 fans at 1100RPM.


----------



## Flikka

Wow very nice. Problem is I cant get the XSPC fans locally so those that I listed are my only options. Taking what you have said, the most economical option would be the CoolerMaster R4-S2B-124K-GP, Quad pack 1200 RPM (Double Ball Bearing). If you have any other recommendations dont hesitate to hit hard!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quick question, Have any of you changed out a RS240 or RX240 with an EX radiator? if so was it worth it? Thanks!


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quick question, Have any of you changed out a RS240 or RX240 with an EX radiator? if so was it worth it? Thanks!


Well according to I think Bundymanias testing the EX360 outperformed the RX360 @ 1200RPM fan speed and higher (if i remember rightly)

So I guess it would be the same for the smaller rads.


----------



## Los Hog

I changed out my four rx 360 rads for four ex 360 rads . I have come to belive that all rads cool about the same with the right fans on them.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I changed out my four rx 360 rads for four ex 360 rads . I have come to belive that all rads cool about the same with the right fans on them.


Yeah, when I added my RX240 rad I noticed a slight temperature difference but when I just used one rad for the CPU I did notice a SLIGHT temperature difference but I was also using AP-14's vs Stock XSPC fans so I will quote for truth on this!


----------



## Los Hog

I had builds that I could only fit a rs rad into it and had to run them with a higher fan speed to cool it down. When I got a case were I could use an rx rad in I used lower rpms to get the same temps as before. So I think it's what you can fit into your build and the noise you can put up with in your fans that's the whole deal. Will a rx rad cool better than a rs? Does a ex cool better than a rx ? I think you should think more about the noise than a couple of degrees of temp that's what I look for in watercooling no noise lol


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> I had builds that I could only fit a rs rad into it and had to run them with a higher fan speed to cool it down. When I got a case were I could use an rx rad in I used lower rpms to get the same temps as before. So I think it's what you can fit into your build and the noise you can put up with in your fans that's the whole deal. Will a rx rad cool better than a rs? Does a ex cool better than a rx ? I think you should think more about the noise than a couple of degrees of temp that's what I look for in watercooling no noise lol


Lol this makes so much sense. It's true though, bigger rad, lower RPM fans, smaller rad, higher RPM fans, etc..









So uh when you gonna let me take that 580 off your hands there, hog?







Got some WC stuff you might want..


----------



## Los Hog

Might be soon I am slowly getting the parts together for my new build


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> Might be soon I am slowly getting the parts together for my new build


Can't wait to see this build log! You better do one brotha!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Thanks for the responce. I just noticed that the EX is alot cheaper than the RX. I want to use the RX for low fan speed but I think the EX is a better buy. thanks again.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flikka*
> 
> Wow very nice. Problem is I cant get the XSPC fans locally so those that I listed are my only options. Taking what you have said, the most economical option would be the CoolerMaster R4-S2B-124K-GP, Quad pack 1200 RPM (Double Ball Bearing). If you have any other recommendations dont hesitate to hit hard!


I an using the cm fans. They are a little loud, but do a really good job. Going to look into a fan controller to lower rpm and quiet them down a little.


----------



## Flikka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I an using the cm fans. They are a little loud, but do a really good job. Going to look into a fan controller to lower rpm and quiet them down a little.


I read your build log and I'll say it again, very nice build, I have access to the CM Sickleflow fans but everywhere I read sleeve bearing fans should be avoided it all cost when mounting horizontally. CM main group of fans are sleeve bearing so im wondering if they really are that bad. A lot of reviews point to the CM Sickleflow and Zalman ZM-F3 as being great fans.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flikka*
> 
> I read your build log and I'll say it again, very nice build, I have access to the CM Sickleflow fans but everywhere I read sleeve bearing fans should be avoided it all cost when mounting horizontally. CM main group of fans are sleeve bearing so im wondering if they really are that bad. A lot of reviews point to the CM Sickleflow and Zalman ZM-F3 as being great fans.


Why are they saying to avoid them? I have 2 that I have been running for some time. I went and got 6 more for my build. I have not seen any issues.

Hell I even severed the wire off of one of them and it is still running fine after a rig up with some electrical tape.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Why are they saying to avoid them? I have 2 that I have been running for some time. I went and got 6 more for my build. I have not seen any issues.
> Hell I even severed the wire off of one of them and it is still running fine after a rig up with some electrical tape.


They are a poor choice when mounting the fan horizontally. The fan bearing's will wear and the fan will degrade faster. When mounted the other way they can be great fans.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> They are a poor choice when mounting the fan horizontally. The fan bearing's will wear and the fan will degrade faster. When mounted the other way they can be great fans.


Huh. IDK. Seem to be working great. Guess I will keep an eye on them.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Huh. IDK. Seem to be working great. Guess I will keep an eye on them.


They will work great, but how long they last might be an issue, they might last forever like that. Its just common place for that style of bearing to not like that mounting. boil's down to YMMV...I have an R4 with blue LED's mount's on the roof of my case, been like that for almost a year...make's a little "grow" when under volted but works fine still.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Yeah, SVC.com is great. I had the same idea that you did. I ordered a RS240 kit and a EX360 from them a couple weeks ago. It's super overkill because I'm only cooling my cpu at the moment, but it leaves me plenty of reserve whenever I get a new gpu and WC it.
> Hopefully XSPC will come out with new kits that include the raystorm and EX rads instead of RS rads.


Check Dazmode.com
They have the Raystorm kit (Raystorm cpu block,EX 240 or 360 rad,D5 or DDC pump, compression fittings, White tubing, same XSPC fans)
Thats what im getting when the primochill tubing problems are resolved.


----------



## Scorpion49

I haz XSPC... Raystorm w/2011 kit, RX360+RX240. Anyone have any tips for lapping the Raystorm? Its been through a few dozen mounts and is all scratched up now.

The system is very incomplete right now, so ignore the weird tubing and lack of sleeved wires, etc.


----------



## combateng

how much better is the raystorm block then the rasa block? would it be worth swapping them besides getting the cool ass LED


----------



## Angrybutcher

While not a full kit, can I join?









Rasa, 2x 5870 Razor blocks, RS240 & EX240 rads, and 3/8" barbs (except the two 45s), all shoved in a Fractal Arc Midi


----------



## Juiced

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combateng*
> 
> how much better is the raystorm block then the rasa block? would it be worth swapping them besides getting the cool ass LED


by 2-3 degrees
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/09/26/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-raystorm/6/


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juiced*
> 
> by 2-3 degrees
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/09/26/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-raystorm/6/


looking like im buying the raystorm ASAP then!


----------



## combateng

ewwww full copper...this is sexy ;] http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsracpuwaifu.html


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I haz XSPC... Raystorm w/2011 kit, RX360+RX240. Anyone have any tips for lapping the Raystorm? Its been through a few dozen mounts and is all scratched up now.
> The system is very incomplete right now, so ignore the weird tubing and lack of sleeved wires, etc.


Looking good so far. I think I have to lap my regular Rasa CPU block, it spreads the TIM very unevenly on all the CPU i've tested it on. It has gotten a bit scratched up over time as well:



I am just going to take mine apart, and lap only the copper portion. I think it should be pretty standard after that, if anybody has any tips, I'd be thankful as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combateng*
> 
> ewwww full copper...this is sexy ;] http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsracpuwaifu.html


Until you get a thumbprint on installing it







That is a nice looking block though.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> Until you get a thumbprint on installing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice looking block though.


Is the copper block worth it over the non copper raystorm? in a performance aspect that it.


----------



## Ryanhabs

I have not seen any reviews showing any difference in temps. I think its just a upped charge for "classy" looks with the same performance. I personally like the all black look as I think it makes the led lighting stand out a little more on the block.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> I have not seen any reviews showing any difference in temps. I think its just a upped charge for "classy" looks with the same performance. I personally like the all black look as I think it makes the led lighting stand out a little more on the block.


Yea, the black one looks better, but the cooper one will match the mobo blocks I want to use from heatkiller a little better. I have looked and looked for a comparision between the copper and non and have not found anything. The difference couldn't be that much I don't think anyway.


----------



## Ryanhabs

I have looked also but found absolutely nothing to say there is any difference in performance between the two blocks. I figure they are both raystorm blocks, what makes them perform is not on the outside its the less restrictive, hi flow compartment in the block. Makes me think that one is just all black and the other while more expensive is copper finish to match other blocks you may have in your system, as you said. It also makes sense that it would be more expensive as it cant simply be run along the assembly line and dunked in to the vat of black paint like the normal raystorm probably is. either way it is a great performer and either version will serve its purpose and look good doing it.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> I have looked also but found absolutely nothing to say there is any difference in performance between the two blocks. I figure they are both raystorm blocks, what makes them perform is not on the outside its the less restrictive, hi flow compartment in the block. Makes me think that one is just all black and the other while more expensive is copper finish to match other blocks you may have in your system, as you said. It also makes sense that it would be more expensive as it cant simply be run along the assembly line and dunked in to the vat of black paint like the normal raystorm probably is. either way it is a great performer and either version will serve its purpose and look good doing it.


Raystorm against other Waterblocks

Is a good read if you're considering buying a Raystorm.


----------



## Ryanhabs

I knew it was a very high rated block, I also saw a review a while back that showed a 2 degree difference between the EK supreme HF and the raystorm with the raystorm having the advantage. I liked the review you posted as its thermal graph showed a bunch of other blocks comparable to is price. your right, it was a really good read.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Raystorm against other Waterblocks
> Is a good read if you're considering buying a Raystorm.


Good to know the acetal is less restrictive, as well as costing less than the copper version. I was considering one, but with my x20 pump, I think the regular Raystorm may be in my future.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> Good to know the acetal is less restrictive, as well as costing less than the copper version. I was considering one, but with my x20 pump, I think the regular Raystorm may be in my future.


Let us know what you decide to go with.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Let us know what you decide to go with.


Will do, although I don't expect it to be soon. I'm getting married, and going to Mexico next month, so no new pc parts for now.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> Will do, although I don't expect it to be soon. I'm getting married, and going to Mexico next month, so no new pc parts for now.


Ah I see.. Congrats man!


----------



## Yodums

I forgot the silver kill coil in my original order, and had to order it separately. It will be arriving a week later, but is it safe to assume that running the setup for 1 week on distilled water with no kill coil and additives won't hurt?


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yodums*
> 
> I forgot the silver kill coil in my original order, and had to order it separately. It will be arriving a week later, but is it safe to assume that running the setup for 1 week on distilled water with no kill coil and additives won't hurt?


I think you should be fine. The copper ions from the rest of your loop with the distilled should be sufficient for a week.


----------



## speedysteve007

Alright major water cooling noob with 0 knowledge right here! All my current parts are in my sig( and a fan controller arrives today )

I almost bought a H100 because my system is way to hot and loud. A friend of my told me not to.. instead come here. So i saw ( http://www.svc.com/r750rs240.html ) Thought it was cool. Saw a lit up cpu water block somewhere in here and thought it was sick( don't know if its bad or good or where to get). I believe i would be fine with the 240kit since i have a Haf x case.

Another thing what kind of liquid do i need? I see all kinds of different brands and ect. One last thing on the liquid.. what color would look the best in my build?







( plan to do some sleeving soon)

On the fan side.. which way would i need to have the fans facing in my case for the rad( rad will fit in the top of my case with room for 2 fans on top and under rad). I also need to replace a few fans in my case considering the noise level is annoying( and get 2 for the rad) I heard these are good http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426018

Any help/info/insight would rock


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> Alright major water cooling noob with 0 knowledge right here! All my current parts are in my sig( and a fan controller arrives today )
> I almost bought a H100 because my system is way to hot and loud. A friend of my told me not to.. instead come here. So i saw ( http://www.svc.com/r750rs240.html ) Thought it was cool. Saw a lit up cpu water block somewhere in here and thought it was sick( don't know if its bad or good or where to get). I believe i would be fine with the 240kit since i have a Haf x case.
> Another thing what kind of liquid do i need? I see all kinds of different brands and ect. One last thing on the liquid.. what color would look the best in my build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( plan to do some sleeving soon)
> On the fan side.. which way would i need to have the fans facing in my case for the rad( rad will fit in the top of my case with room for 2 fans on top and under rad). I also need to replace a few fans in my case considering the noise level is annoying( and get 2 for the rad) I heard these are good http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426018
> Any help/info/insight would rock


You should be able to fit the 240 rad up top.

That's 1000x better than a H100. You also get more flexibility to do and change what you want without having to really shell out more money.

As for liquid, I recommend using straight distilled water with some Dead Water drops + a kill coil.

As for the fan configuration on your rad, since heat travels up, I'd recommend snagging 2 more fans and running push/pull if you can. Have an intake in the front, the back, and the top fans p/p air out of your case. Also, depending on what PSU you have and if you're running enough components to make the fan spin, you can also use the PSU to suck all the hot air from the GPU and blow out the back of your PSU thus keeping your case temp fairly nice so when your fans up top are pulling all the air out, it's not all just a bunch of hot air.

Hope this makes sense to you lol. This is the configuration I have running currently and it's working and has been working flawlessly. Kind of tired, so if you have any other question feel free to ask and if I can't get back with you on it I'm sure the other nice, helpful people here on OCN or the fellow members of this club will assist you further.


----------



## speedysteve007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> You should be able to fit the 240 rad up top.
> That's 1000x better than a H100. You also get more flexibility to do and change what you want without having to really shell out more money.
> As for liquid, I recommend using straight distilled water with some Dead Water drops + a kill coil.
> As for the fan configuration on your rad, since heat travels up, I'd recommend snagging 2 more fans and running push/pull if you can. Have an intake in the front, the back, and the top fans p/p air out of your case. Also, depending on what PSU you have and if you're running enough components to make the fan spin, you can also use the PSU to suck all the hot air from the GPU and blow out the back of your PSU thus keeping your case temp fairly nice so when your fans up top are pulling all the air out, it's not all just a bunch of hot air.
> Hope this makes sense to you lol. This is the configuration I have running currently and it's working and has been working flawlessly. Kind of tired, so if you have any other question feel free to ask and if I can't get back with you on it I'm sure the other nice, helpful people here on OCN or the fellow members of this club will assist you further.


Sweet! That makes sense.
And is there a certain brand of Dead Water drops that is good? and what is a kill coil? o.o


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> Sweet! That makes sense.
> And is there a certain brand of Dead Water drops that is good? and what is a kill coil? o.o


It's literally called Dead Water..









Kill Coil A kill coil is a tiny piece of silver that is spun like in the link. Helps kill all all the nasty stuff.


----------



## zainu

i just bought a new 800D
have a look brothers...


----------



## HugeTorque

Ordered myself an RX360 kit from FrozenCPU and am psyched to get my hands wet (pardon the pun).

I see the tubing and fittings are all g1/4 thread, 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD compression fittings

Here's my question:

is this a good tube size/ fitting match? I've read of people recommending that the tubing be a size smaller than the fitting to create a very tight seal.
also, whenever I'm looking to buy a gpu block - which don't include fittings - I'm usually offered to add fittings from a list and none of which are for tubes 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD.
So, what gives? Is this an unusual size? I know I can choose my fitting separately, that's not the issue, I just find it strange and wanted to know what you thought of this.


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yodums*
> 
> I forgot the silver kill coil in my original order, and had to order it separately. It will be arriving a week later, but is it safe to assume that running the setup for 1 week on distilled water with no kill coil and additives won't hurt?


that should be fine...you wanna know what i run...tap water with some 70% isoprorpyl alcohol baby!!!


----------



## Ryanhabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HugeTorque*
> 
> Ordered myself an RX360 kit from FrozenCPU and am psyched to get my hands wet (pardon the pun).
> I see the tubing and fittings are all g1/4 thread, 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD compression fittings
> Here's my question:
> is this a good tube size/ fitting match? I've read of people recommending that the tubing be a size smaller than the fitting to create a very tight seal.
> also, whenever I'm looking to buy a gpu block - which don't include fittings - I'm usually offered to add fittings from a list and none of which are for tubes 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD.
> So, what gives? Is this an unusual size? I know I can choose my fitting separately, that's not the issue, I just find it strange and wanted to know what you thought of this.


I think with compression fittings they need to be spot on matched sizes for id / od . I dont have my water kit yet, but I'm working on that and it shouldnt be long. The rear (screw piece) of the compression fitting matches the tubing as it sort of grips the tube to hold it in place so to speak. If you got a smaller od tubing size for those fittings I would think it cause the fitting to not have a good hold and you could get possible leaking as the seal would not be completely secure.

As I said, I dont have my kit yet though so maybe someone better experienced with compression fittings could jump in and tell me if I have the right idea or (to quote billy madison) "You are all dumber now for listening to me and at no point did I come close to even making a rational thought."


----------



## speedysteve007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> It's literally called Dead Water..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kill Coil A kill coil is a tiny piece of silver that is spun like in the link. Helps kill all all the nasty stuff.


Yea i found both this morning







I was tired so i was in uber derp mode <.<
Thanks!


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HugeTorque*
> 
> Ordered myself an RX360 kit from FrozenCPU and am psyched to get my hands wet (pardon the pun).
> I see the tubing and fittings are all g1/4 thread, 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD compression fittings
> Here's my question:
> is this a good tube size/ fitting match? I've read of people recommending that the tubing be a size smaller than the fitting to create a very tight seal.
> also, whenever I'm looking to buy a gpu block - which don't include fittings - I'm usually offered to add fittings from a list and none of which are for tubes 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD.
> So, what gives? Is this an unusual size? I know I can choose my fitting separately, that's not the issue, I just find it strange and wanted to know what you thought of this.


If you plan on running 7/16ID / 5/8OD then make sure you're running the same size fittings. Especially if this is your first time around, make sure everything is what it is supposed to be and where it's supposed to be. People just say that to minimize leaks, well why don't you just run the clamps that come with the kit? Or go to a hardware or car store and get some metal clamps if you're worried about leaks? Honestly, it'll be fine.









However, I did use the 7/16 / 5/8 barbs in 1/2" tubing and it worked out flawlessly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combateng*
> 
> that should be fine...you wanna know what i run...tap water with some 70% isoprorpyl alcohol baby!!!


Lol, I don't know if that would be safe or not. Definitely a first time for hearing that for me..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> I think with compression fittings they need to be spot on matched sizes for id / od . I dont have my water kit yet, but I'm working on that and it shouldnt be long. The rear (screw piece) of the compression fitting matches the tubing as it sort of grips the tube to hold it in place so to speak. If you got a smaller od tubing size for those fittings I would think it cause the fitting to not have a good hold and you could get possible leaking as the seal would not be completely secure.
> As I said, I dont have my kit yet though so maybe someone better experienced with compression fittings could jump in and tell me if I have the right idea or (to quote billy madison) "You are all dumber now for listening to me and at no point did I come close to even making a rational thought."


This is somewhat true, so therefore good answer.









However, coming from a compression fitting user like myself.. You want the comp. fittings to match the tubing size, because when you screw on the surroundings for the compression fitting you can feel it digging into the tubing. Also, if you notice when using compression fittings if you try to pull them out, (if they're the right size) you will have to take off the surroundings of the fitting to normally get the tubing out unless you just sit there and wiggle it out by hand.

But, in all honesty, compression fittings are mainly used for looks.







So it's solely up to you if you want to use them or not, I did for the looks and because the Koolance fittings I had looked super sexy with my theme for my build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> Yea i found both this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was tired so i was in uber derp mode <.<
> Thanks!


Good deal, and so way I. So it's okay.









And no problem, let us know if you need anything else.


----------



## Dustin1

Hey guys, just to give all of you a heads up FrozenCPU is getting a shipment of 100 AP15's in this week and getting another 2,000 in the same week or next week!

Thread for this Online Deal


----------



## Ryanhabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Hey guys, just to give all of you a heads up FrozenCPU is getting a shipment of 100 AP15's in this week and getting another 2,000 in the same week or next week!
> Thread for this Online Deal


very nice! I have a feeling I'll need like 4 more of those sometime soon


----------



## Hogwasher

Okay I don't know if any of you remember me complaining about my loud pump a few weeks ago? But I emailed XSPC, they asked for a video which I sent. My new pump arrived today!

Will be putting it in tomorrow. Wish me luck! and thanks to Los Hog for your help


----------



## speedysteve007

Okay here is another few questions, I can get the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 for $117.21, need a kill coil and Dead-water
I can get the XSPC Raystorm RX240 Extreme $279.99, has a kill coil, still need Dead-water
I need 4 fans for my case also.. Thats $50 min for good fans.

Its the upgraded 240 worth the money? and would that thicker rad fit in a Haf X?


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Has anyone had a issue with the water block from this kit having way to much curvature(convex)? I am seeing temps that are weird . Under load cores one and two are 45C cores three and four at around 58C. I have remounted about four times thinking it was too tight or too loose; maybe too much thermal paste. Here is what i am noticing is that the block squeezes all of the thermal paste from the center to the edges but not all the way. There would be no thermal paste in middle at all and none at the very edges. Sorta like 1/3 from the center and 1/3 from the edge. I use the center dot method; so I am stumped! I have ordered a EK supreme REV.3 block and hope that provides different results.


----------



## Ryanhabs

The raystorm cpu block retails for about 62 bucks for the all black version the RX 240 retails for 22 bucks more than the RS 240. thats 84 dollar difference The extreme has a different pump too doesn't it? I know http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Raystorm_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310 comes with XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - w/ Alphacool VPP655 and it looks like the 240 extreme does also. The Alphacool VPP655 pump itself is a 119 dollar pump so the total different in upgraded parts = 203 bucks that doesn't include -Choice of tubing color
-Compression fittings instead of barbs. its a pretty good deal imo.


----------



## thorian88

Are o-rings necessary for the 1/2"ID Barbs? I have clamps


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thorian88*
> 
> Are o-rings necessary for the 1/2"ID Barbs? I have clamps


Well the O-rings would have nothing to do with using clamps. The o-rings are used at the base of the threads on your barb that help prevent leaks where you're screwing in your barb to your rad.

So, if you don't have them, I recommend using them.


----------



## speedysteve007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> The raystorm cpu block retails for about 62 bucks for the all black version the RX 240 retails for 22 bucks more than the RS 240. thats 84 dollar difference The extreme has a different pump too doesn't it? I know http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Raystorm_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310 comes with XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - w/ Alphacool VPP655 and it looks like the 240 extreme does also. The Alphacool VPP655 pump itself is a 119 dollar pump so the total different in upgraded parts = 203 bucks that doesn't include -Choice of tubing color
> -Compression fittings instead of barbs. its a pretty good deal imo.


I think you just persuaded me








Now i just need to find out if it will fit in the top of my case..


----------



## Ryanhabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> I think you just persuaded me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i just need to find out if it will fit in the top of my case..


I know 100% a RS will fit and can be set up in push pull in the top of the hafx, The RX is 2x as thick so it should fit but the fans will have to be mounted on top of the rad as I think if you mount fans on the bottom they will hang too low and run in to heatsinks on the MB. (I have a HAFX also) I want push pull on the rad so I'm going to try to stay with the EX / RS series if I can.


----------



## speedysteve007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> I know 100% a RS will fit and can be set up in push pull in the top of the hafx, The RX is 2x as thick so it should fit but the fans will have to be mounted on top of the rad as I think if you mount fans on the bottom they will hang too low and run in to heatsinks on the MB. (I have a HAFX also) I want push pull on the rad so I'm going to try to stay with the EX / RS series if I can.


Well i made a thread last night asking about it.. and one guy commented and said this. "Easily. I have an EK 360 up top in push/pull with no modifications. Bumping up to the RX240 is easily do-able as well. With the RS240 (or EX240), all 4 fans can reside internal. With the RX240, you will want two fans below the top bezel, the rad and other set of fans "inside" the case. For support reasons, I would recommend the top fans in the top anyway as there are only 4 screw points." - Angrybutcher


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> Well i made a thread last night asking about it.. and one guy commented and said this. "Easily. I have an EK 360 up top in push/pull with no modifications. Bumping up to the RX240 is easily do-able as well. With the RS240 (or EX240), all 4 fans can reside internal. With the RX240, you will want two fans below the top bezel, the rad and other set of fans "inside" the case. For support reasons, I would recommend the top fans in the top anyway as there are only 4 screw points." - Angrybutcher


One thing I can add. If you want to save space. The EX series work really well. I got the EX360 and love it.


----------



## thorian88

so.. if my threads on the rad or barb is chipped or warped on either end, get an o-ring... other than that, i think if it's leak proof tested without one it shouldn't be a big deal


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thorian88*
> 
> so.. if my threads on the rad or barb is chipped or warped on either end, get an o-ring... other than that, i think if it's leak proof tested without one it shouldn't be a big deal


Eh, I would really suggest you use one regardless. That would suck for a leak to develop a couple days after running for something like that. Just go to lowe's or home depot and pick one up.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thorian88*
> 
> so.. if my threads on the rad or barb is chipped or warped on either end, get an o-ring... other than that, i think if it's leak proof tested without one it shouldn't be a big deal


The o-ring is there to seal off the hold on your rad. After tightening down your barb / fitting is will create a seal so no water leaks out.


----------



## Ryanhabs

Best to take all the precautions first, the other option is to possibly have to replace damaged components. I'd say the price is worth it just for the piece of mind.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> Best to take all the precautions first, the other option is to possibly have to replace damaged components. I'd say the price is worth it just for the piece of mind.


That is what I was getting at. O-rings are cheap and you can get them anywhere.....


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradey*
> 
> hey, could someone please tell me the size of the RX120
> thanks


Give or take 1 or 2 mm. End tanks are about 4mm less side to side, 2 mm on each side.


*EDIT*
Disregaurd the 120mm it's 115mm


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Give or take 1 or 2 mm. End tanks are about 4mm less side to side, 2 mm on each side.
> 
> *EDIT*
> Disregaurd the 120mm it's 115mm


This.

It's good to see another member from Missouri too.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> This.
> It's good to see another member from Missouri too.


Off Topic, but I'm from MO too, lol.

On topic, I hope they come out with an official Raystorm kit soon. The Dazmode one is sweet, but $30 bucks for shipping from Canada sucks, especially if something is wrong and I have to send it back lol.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Off Topic, but I'm from MO too, lol.
> On topic, I hope they come out with an official Raystorm kit soon. The Dazmode one is sweet, but $30 bucks for shipping from Canada sucks, especially if something is wrong and I have to send it back lol.


Here you go brother....

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Raystorm_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310

Not sure what the shipping will be.


----------



## Bradey

upgrade


Click to view full size!

thanks for the dimms of the 120, fits exactly


----------



## jedi304

Nice cooling, but damn that's tight!


----------



## japanesegorilla

That seems like a lot for a 120 rad to cool.


----------



## Ryanhabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradey*
> 
> upgrade
> 
> Click to view full size!
> thanks for the dimms of the 120, fits exactly


I smell a case mod coming on.... chop top with custom bracket for a 240mm? Or maybe a custom side panel port with room for a 2nd 120mm?







 I bet the store would even throw in a shoe horn to help wedge it in there.

Jokes aside. That is one super tight fit already.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Off Topic, but I'm from MO too, lol.
> On topic, I hope they come out with an official Raystorm kit soon. The Dazmode one is sweet, but $30 bucks for shipping from Canada sucks, especially if something is wrong and I have to send it back lol.


i live in PR and shipping is very expensive, still i gladly pay the $55 shipping for that kit, that plus the tubing since i will be changing it (dont like white) and after that it will still be a bit cheaper than buying everything apart.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Here you go brother....
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Raystorm_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> Not sure what the shipping will be.


Yea, I know about those, but they aren't the same kit as Dazmode. The frozenCPU and performance-pc's kits have regular fan grills instead of black, chrome compression's instead of black, the tubing is the regular crappy XSPC tubing. However it does come with a variable speed D5 by default.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Yea, I know about those, but they aren't the same kit as Dazmode. The frozenCPU and performance-pc's kits have regular fan grills instead of black, chrome compression's instead of black, the tubing is the regular crappy XSPC tubing. However it does come with a variable speed D5 by default.


Huh, I got the RS 240 kit originally and everything as black chrome, or what ever. The fan grills were also black. The tubing is crappy. I got the primo chill LRT pro stuff and love it.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradey*
> 
> upgrade
> 
> Click to view full size!
> thanks for the dimms of the 120, fits exactly


You can't have good air flow. I highly suggest a new case. LOL.

Something like this would be perfect.

http://www.amazon.com/SWITCH-810-BLACK-Tower-Chassis/dp/B00752QYLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331250997&sr=8-1

Look at my build log if you want to see it in action.

Awesome use of space though. Thumbs up for sure..


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Huh, I got the RS 240 kit originally and everything as black chrome, or what ever. The fan grills were also black. The tubing is crappy. I got the primo chill LRT pro stuff and love it.


Maybe the pictures on FCPU and Performance are wrong then.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Maybe the pictures on FCPU and Performance are wrong then.


That def happens. I just ordered a SLI connection bridge from danger den website. On the site it was silver. What I got was black chrome. A very nice surprise.


----------



## spRICE

My fan grills were silver but my fittings were black chrome.


----------



## thomasrs

Anyone know if this stuff is good? Will it gunk up my blocks?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14840/ex-liq-201/Fluid_XP_Industrial_Grade_Deionized_Water_-_UV_Invisible_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s888


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> Anyone know if this stuff is good? Will it gunk up my blocks?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14840/ex-liq-201/Fluid_XP_Industrial_Grade_Deionized_Water_-_UV_Invisible_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s888


just use distilled water, unless you set on uv stuff....

me, i just used tap water from my faucet...cause no matter what you do any liquid you use WILL EVENTUALLY become conductive!!! its going to pick up ions from the copper or w/e metal in your loop over time and become conductive anyways.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> Anyone know if this stuff is good? Will it gunk up my blocks?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14840/ex-liq-201/Fluid_XP_Industrial_Grade_Deionized_Water_-_UV_Invisible_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s888


I've never used it, but it sounds descent. I'm just using reg distilled w/ UV blue tubing on mine, which is fine for me.


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> I've never used it, but it sounds descent. I'm just using reg distilled w/ UV blue tubing on mine, which is fine for me.


thats what most people do and it is prob the best way...the less chemicals you put into the water the better it cools i believe.
I remember when i got my first water cooling system YEARS ago, i used the fezer one crap and OMG that stuff was so nasty, all the blocks we guncked up and was just nasty.


----------



## thomasrs

Wow alright, I live in Brazil hehe probably the first in this forum so I gotta go after some distilled water over here. Im asking because Im going to get a XSPC RS360 kit soon when I go to the states on business. So ive been learning and reading up to see how im going to add this kit ot my build.







When I get the kit ill get some dead water and a silver kill coil and that should be enough... Any one recomend other coolants though?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> Anyone know if this stuff is good? Will it gunk up my blocks?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14840/ex-liq-201/Fluid_XP_Industrial_Grade_Deionized_Water_-_UV_Invisible_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s888


Use UV tubes. Not liquid.


----------



## Los Hog

I 2nd water and a kill coil or ptnuke


----------



## stiv

Hi, I just ordered the RS/240 and were just wondering how much coolant i will need?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stiv*
> 
> Hi, I just ordered the RS/240 and were just wondering how much coolant i will need?


If it came with the kill coil, just get a gallon of distilled water. If it did NOT come with a kill coil, get a kill coil and distilled water.

Don't forget to flush everything out before hooking it up....









To answer your question, probably less than a third of a gallon to fill the loop.


----------



## Kokin

Yeah I went and bought 2 gallons of distilled water for my loop and guess what? I only used up about 1/3 to flush and 1/3 for the loop. As for the silver kill coil, you don't necessarily need it. I just use the PT-Nuke with distilled and so far, so good. No clouding of my tubing, no corrosion (silver does corrode copper over a long period of time) and everything has been perfect in the last 3 weeks.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yeah I went and bought 2 gallons of distilled water for my loop and guess what? I only used up about 1/3 to flush and 1/3 for the loop. As for the silver kill coil, you don't necessarily need it. I just use the PT-Nuke with distilled and so far, so good. No clouding of my tubing, no corrosion (silver does corrode copper over a long period of time) and everything has been perfect in the last 3 weeks.


Huh. I will have to watch out for that then. That sucks that silver corrodes copper. I don't think I can get the damn thing out. It is wedged under my pump.


----------



## konoii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Huh. I will have to watch out for that then. That sucks that silver corrodes copper. I don't think I can get the damn thing out. It is wedged under my pump.


I actually made a thread asking about whats better to use, killcoil or pt nuke. Most of the complaints about silver and corrosion have been about nickel plated blocks. Its index number is very small and wont cause corrosion as long as the silver isn't touching the other piece of metal.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> (silver does corrode copper over a long period of time)


How so?









Just Curious.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *konoii*
> 
> I actually made a thread asking about whats better to use, killcoil or pt nuke. Most of the complaints about silver and corrosion have been about nickel plated blocks. Its index number is very small and wont cause corrosion as long as the silver isn't touching the other piece of metal.


That is cool then. All of my equipment is copper.


----------



## Skidooer93

Just got my Rasa RX360 in this week

Not the best pictures but just thought id share.

Had to drill a couple new holes in the top and use the dremel for the fans on the top but it didnt turn out too bad


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skidooer93*
> 
> Just got my Rasa RX360 in this week
> Not the best pictures but just thought id share.
> Had to drill a couple new holes in the top and use the dremel for the fans on the top but it didnt turn out too bad


Hows come you have to use the dremel and drill new holes?


----------



## Skidooer93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Hows come you have to use the dremel and drill new holes?


Because the case is a phantom and that big RX360 didnt fit without drilling new holes in the top of the case, also the dremel was used on the fans and the top plastic part to fit 2 fans on the top aswell as 3 on the bottom.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skidooer93*
> 
> Because the case is a phantom and that big RX360 didnt fit without drilling new holes in the top of the case, also the dremel was used on the fans and the top plastic part to fit 2 fans on the top aswell as 3 on the bottom.


Crap, thought I was in the NZXT switch 810 thread when I read that. I see now. It all makes sense.


----------



## Bradey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanhabs*
> 
> I smell a case mod coming on.... chop top with custom bracket for a 240mm? Or maybe a custom side panel port with room for a 2nd 120mm?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet the store would even throw in a shoe horn to help wedge it in there.
> Jokes aside. That is one super tight fit already.


ive got a 240 down the bottom, i don't think i need another
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> You can't have good air flow. I highly suggest a new case. LOL.
> 
> Something like this would be perfect.
> http://www.amazon.com/SWITCH-810-BLACK-Tower-Chassis/dp/B00752QYLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331250997&sr=8-1
> Look at my build log if you want to see it in action.
> Awesome use of space though. Thumbs up for sure..


what do i need air flow for, my gpu and cpu are under water. and my side panel has two 120mm fan grills. thanks for the case but i wanted something smaller, im thinking of itx...


----------



## Los Hog

I think it looks killer Bradey


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradey*
> 
> ive got a 240 down the bottom, i don't think i need another
> what do i need air flow for, my gpu and cpu are under water. and my side panel has two 120mm fan grills. thanks for the case but i wanted something smaller, im thinking of itx...


LOL, you are right. That is awsome looking though....


----------



## Bradey

here's a pic of the rad



i cut my self a few times cutting the holes for the rad down the botom


----------



## savagepagan

Great 120 and 140mm fans by CoolJag. These may be GT-ish knockoffs. Equivalent static pressure to the GT's.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6168/fan-339/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_121225BL.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8767/fan-541/Cooljag_Everflow_140_x_25mm_Low_Speed_Fan_FB14025SL.html


----------



## Los Hog

And for 1/2 the cost hmmm good find I might give these a try


----------



## savagepagan

Another 2012 cooling fan roundup. The Cooljags score very well and are dual bearing fans.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/325062-28-cooling-roundup-2012


----------



## pale

Got my first Rasa RS240 kit today and the pump was DOA! Might have been a dodgy molex but I just couldnt get it to power up. The leds that came with the kit worked a treat through same molex from my psu.

Anyway, Specialtech have promptly responded saying they are getting a replacement pump in the post in the morning.

Swimmingly good service...


----------



## stiv

Got my RS/240 installed and temps are geat. Going to order a kill coil ( can't get them in NZ ) and switch to distilled water with some coloured tubing.

Have got the air bubbles out of the line now


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stiv*
> 
> Got my RS/240 installed and temps are geat. Going to order a kill coil ( can't get them in NZ ) and switch to distilled water with some coloured tubing.
> 
> Have got the air bubbles out of the line now


Cool, enjoy your new loop!


----------



## konoii




----------



## pale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *konoii*
> 
> snipped[/URL]


Nice!!

Managed to squeeze my RS240 kit in to the Antec 300. My next upgrade is definitely a full watercooling compatible case now I've made the switch. Temps are unreal. I'm at 4ghz on my 1100t and temps never go above 45 after 6 hours prime95. I just switched on my PC it idled at around 15C for 5 minutes and slowly went up to 19C. (Just warming up?


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pale*
> 
> Nice!!
> Managed to squeeze my RS240 kit in to the Antec 300. My next upgrade is definitely a full watercooling compatible case now I've made the switch. Temps are unreal. I'm at 4ghz on my 1100t and temps never go above 45 after 6 hours prime95. I just switched on my PC it idled at around 15C for 5 minutes and slowly went up to 19C. (Just warming up?


aww, that ia the ONLY thing i miss about AMD processors, they idle so much cooler then intel!


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pale*
> 
> Nice!!
> Managed to squeeze my RS240 kit in to the Antec 300. My next upgrade is definitely a full watercooling compatible case now I've made the switch. Temps are unreal. I'm at 4ghz on my 1100t and temps never go above 45 after 6 hours prime95. I just switched on my PC it idled at around 15C for 5 minutes and slowly went up to 19C. (Just warming up?


Geeze it must be cold in your room. 15C!


----------



## pale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> Geeze it must be cold in your room. 15C!


Freezing mate! But like I said, that was when I first switched it on. I think it takes maybe 5-10 minutes for the chip to warm up. Since installing the kit the idles temps hover around 19-20. Light use goes up to about 22-27. Gaming BF3/SC2 Never went above 33. 6 hours Prime95 43 Max. This is the max amount of testing so far, I am constantly monitoring when I use the system. Will leave it on Prim95 tonight for a good 12 hours see how temps react.


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pale*
> 
> Freezing mate! But like I said, that was when I first switched it on. I think it takes maybe 5-10 minutes for the chip to warm up. Since installing the kit the idles temps hover around 19-20. Light use goes up to about 22-27. Gaming BF3/SC2 Never went above 33. 6 hours Prime95 43 Max. This is the max amount of testing so far, I am constantly monitoring when I use the system. Will leave it on Prim95 tonight for a good 12 hours see how temps react.


what is your ambiant temp anyways?


----------



## konoii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pale*
> 
> Nice!!
> Managed to squeeze my RS240 kit in to the Antec 300. My next upgrade is definitely a full watercooling compatible case now I've made the switch. Temps are unreal. I'm at 4ghz on my 1100t and temps never go above 45 after 6 hours prime95. I just switched on my PC it idled at around 15C for 5 minutes and slowly went up to 19C. (Just warming up?


Nice fit









15c







I wish I lived in a cold climate.. Currently a comfy 30c in my room...


----------



## ViperSB1

First post on this site! Anyways, I got the RS360 kit, installed it and got the infamous rattling pump! Yay!
I pulled the Rasa black off my cpu and was horrified at the contact that was being made, judging by th way my TIM had spread.
Took a close look at the block and there is a very noticeable defect on the block, a bump off-center on the top end.
This bump seems to be right on with how my TIM spread. Long story short I have decided I want to try and lap the block.
Has anyone here attempted this? Does anyone know if the block is bowed from the factory requiring me to dis-assemble the block before lapping?

And on a side note, I ditched the pump/res combo and got a Swiftech MCP655-B with a Koolance COV-450 and a Swiftech Micro Res Rev2.


----------



## Ryanhabs

Finally, the The Frankenstein XSPC build has started. ATM only the EX240 is installed (top mount) with push /pull. All koolance compression fittings and swapped the rasa block for the raystorm. The tubing is Feser 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD in acid green and currently just running Phobia Zuper Zero clear coolant. Phase 2 will consist of adding a 2nd 240 rad (RX 240) and a 120mm rad off the rear of the case. Also getting a hydrocopper block from EVGA to fit my 580 classy ultra. The additions might require an set up in the pump but only time will tell that story.

some quick shots taken before I crash out for the night.


----------



## selluminis

EX360


Rasa block


RS 240


NZXT Switch 810 FTW!!!


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> 
> EX360
> 
> Rasa block
> 
> RS 240
> 
> NZXT Switch 810 FTW!!!


Nice build dude!! I'm so buying this case soon!!

Are those wheels on the bottom? Does the case come with wheels, or have you modded that yourself?


----------



## modinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> -snip-


Beautiful build selluminis, I'm very jealous.







Those pictures give me the inspiration to put some custom lighting in my rig.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Nice build dude!! I'm so buying this case soon!!
> Are those wheels on the bottom? Does the case come with wheels, or have you modded that yourself?


Thanks. I modded the wheels on. See my build log. It was really easy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modinn*
> 
> Beautiful build selluminis, I'm very jealous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those pictures give me the inspiration to put some custom lighting in my rig.


Lighting just puts it over the edge of looking really cool. Have to use the right lighting though.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Lighting just puts it over the edge of looking really cool. Have to use the right lighting though.


Agreed.. I am using the NZXT Sleeved White LED Kit and love it! I was really surprised how well the lights look in the case.. I was wondering a bit just how well the lights would look before I bought them, now I am definitely glad I made the choice to get the NZXT lighting.. I definitely recommend them to anyone thinking about getting the NXZT Sleeved LED kit.


----------



## macarule

looking to get the Rasa 750 RS240, i have a Venomous X right now, i have my i7 920 OCed to 4Ghz on 1.33v and was wondering what kind of drop in temperature i would see if i upgraded to this kit


----------



## usop8290

need advise here..im planing to install my 2nd gpu (SLI)..does xspc 750 pump can handle it? currently running on cpu, gpu and 2x240 rad...


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *usop8290*
> 
> need advise here..im planing to install my 2nd gpu (SLI)..does xspc 750 pump can handle it? currently running on cpu, gpu and 2x240 rad...


I will be updating my build log tonight. I am running a cpu and 2 gpu off of it. I will have the pics up tonight. Cpu @ 4.8 1.488 volts hit 60 with custom blend in p95 running at 90% RAM usage. GPU's stay running at 50 max with the following oc 925/1850/2100 at 1.1 volts. Stock on the gpu's is 797/1594/1950 @ .013 volts.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> looking to get the Rasa 750 RS240, i have a Venomous X right now, i have my i7 920 OCed to 4Ghz on 1.33v and was wondering what kind of drop in temperature i would see if i upgraded to this kit


What are your temps now?


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> What are your temps now?


low to mid 70s after 15-20 IBT on high


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> low to mid 70s after 15-20 IBT on high


prob will see mid 50's. Not sure how hot though cpus run though.


----------



## selluminis

Updated my build log.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1220661/the-destroyer-810-2500k-nzxt-switch-810-evga-gtx-560-ti-448-classy-all-on-water/0_100#post_16787320


----------



## JMattes

Hey Guys,

I am on the fence about getting a Rasa EX240 Kit.. I dont need the fans (got 4 AP-15 gentle typhoons), but I want it to run pretty silent and I know some times the pump is an issue. I did hear XSPC has great custome service though..

I was thinking the kit would be cheaper, but I was wondering how it would compare to separate parts.

I was looking at EK-Supreme HF CPU Block and a Black Ice 240 SR-1 Rad.. and I am on the fence if I really wanted to go the distance and get the MC655 at that point to really run it quiet.. or just use Rasa kit pump...

I am basically asking for the clubs opinion on there thoughts on the Rasa kit and if going the other route would even produce better temps..

Looking for bang for the buck and I think Rasa may be it. Or maybe one of those upgraded Rasa kits would be a better deal?

*Wow Check this.. This is for the standard kit..*

James,

Due to high failure rates on the pumps we are not going to restock this item until a revision has been made.

JAB Computers
www.jab-tech.com


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> I am on the fence about getting a Rasa EX240 Kit.. I dont need the fans (got 4 AP-15 gentle typhoons), but I want it to run pretty silent and I know some times the pump is an issue. I did hear XSPC has great custome service though..
> I was thinking the kit would be cheaper, but I was wondering how it would compare to separate parts.
> I was looking at EK-Supreme HF CPU Block and a Black Ice 240 SR-1 Rad.. and I am on the fence if I really wanted to go the distance and get the MC655 at that point to really run it quiet.. or just use Rasa kit pump...
> I am basically asking for the clubs opinion on there thoughts on the Rasa kit and if going the other route would even produce better temps..
> Looking for bang for the buck and I think Rasa may be it. Or maybe one of those upgraded Rasa kits would be a better deal?
> *Wow Check this.. This is for the standard kit..*
> James,
> Due to high failure rates on the pumps we are not going to restock this item until a revision has been made.
> JAB Computers
> www.jab-tech.com


Huh, the separate parts you listed are better, I think. I have the RS240 kit as my base kit. The pump/res combo has been fine so far. Not loud at all. I currently have that pump running a RS240, EX360, rasa cpu block, and 2 danager den GTX480 full cover water blocks. Seems okay, but I thin a faster pump would help. See my build log. I also have temps and oc info at the end.

Scroll all the way to the end of the log. That is where my final build pics are.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Huh, the separate parts you listed are better, I think. I have the RS240 kit as my base kit. The pump/res combo has been fine so far. Not loud at all. I currently have that pump running a RS240, EX360, rasa cpu block, and 2 danager den GTX480 full cover water blocks. Seems okay, but I thin a faster pump would help. See my build log. I also have temps and oc info at the end.
> Scroll all the way to the end of the log. That is where my final build pics are.


I will definately be checking your log when i get to a computer.

I ended up buying an upgraded kit from performance pc.

They had a rasa kit that came with a ray storm cpu block, alphacool vpp655 pump and xspc bay res, rx 240 and compression fittings. So i think im pretty sold and shouldnt have a problem..

Not sure if that counts as a rasa 750 kit tho, so i doubt you guys will let me in tue club.
I think its a raystorm kit really


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I will definately be checking your log when i get to a computer.
> I ended up buying an upgraded kit from performance pc.
> They had a rasa kit that came with a ray storm cpu block, alphacool vpp655 pump and xspc bay res, rx 240 and compression fittings. So i think im pretty sold and shouldnt have a problem..
> Not sure if that counts as a rasa 750 kit tho, so i doubt you guys will let me in tue club.
> I think its a raystorm kit really


It is a raystorm kit. Not sure if it really matters anymore though. LOL....


----------



## Demented

I actually may be joining this club soon. I read the FAQ, and glad I found out the difference in rad size with the RS vs RX models. But then when reading more of the FAQ, I saw this:
Quote:


> What kind of fans are needed for the kit?
> Low Speed fans - RX series
> High Speed fans - RS series


I plan on using my Ultra Kaze 3ks with the RX version. That would be fine, right? The way I read it, the RX will perform well with low speed fans, but I want to make sure it can also be helped by some seriously high-speed fans. I'm not worried about noise.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I actually may be joining this club soon. I read the FAQ, and glad I found out the difference in rad size with the RS vs RX models. But then when reading more of the FAQ, I saw this:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of fans are needed for the kit?
> Low Speed fans - RX series
> High Speed fans - RS series
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on using my Ultra Kaze 3ks with the RX version. That would be fine, right? The way I read it, the RX will perform well with low speed fans, but I want to make sure it can also be helped by some seriously high-speed fans. I'm not worried about noise.
> Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Yes, it works better with low speed fans due to the surface area of the rad. High speed fans will be fine too. That is the big selling point for the RX. It makes the system more quiet with the ability to use slow fans + it just has better cooling ability over all due to it's size.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Yes, it works better with low speed fans due to the surface area of the rad. High speed fans will be fine too. That is the big selling point for the RX. It makes the system more quiet with the ability to use slow fans + it just has better cooling ability over all due to it's size.


So I'd get good cooling even if I kept my UK3Ks at half speed? Good to know, thanks!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> So I'd get good cooling even if I kept my UK3Ks at half speed? Good to know, thanks!


Yep.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Yep.


Now I'm wondering if I should go with the RX 240 and two more UK3Ks. How easy is it to mount a radiator on the outside of a case? Like Ideally I'd have it attached to the back outside of the case, not utilizing any of the case fans. Just a complete radiator/fan set up, so I can keep a rear exhaust fan going to help with the heat from my 6950s.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Now I'm wondering if I should go with the RX 240 and two more UK3Ks. How easy is it to mount a radiator on the outside of a case? Like Ideally I'd have it attached to the back outside of the case, not utilizing any of the case fans. Just a complete radiator/fan set up, so I can keep a rear exhaust fan going to help with the heat from my 6950s.


If you get the kit, I know they come with hardware to mount on the outside. However, if you just order the rad, I think you will need to order the hardware brackets.

If you want 2 rads, check out the case in my build log in my sig. That is a way better option.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> If you get the kit, I know they come with hardware to mount on the outside. However, if you just order the rad, I think you will need to order the hardware brackets.
> If you want 2 rads, check out the case in my build log in my sig. That is a way better option.


I'd most likely be getting a full kit. Also, since I'm just planning to use it on my CPU, then the RX120 or RX240 should be plenty for me. Not fully sure if I'm ordering, but I know I need new cooling, since I got the H50 when I went from E8500 to a Q9550. I've had my i5 for about a year now, so I'm definitely in the market for something new.


----------



## macarule

mine should arrive monday


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I'd most likely be getting a full kit. Also, since I'm just planning to use it on my CPU, then the RX120 or RX240 should be plenty for me. Not fully sure if I'm ordering, but I know I need new cooling, since I got the H50 when I went from E8500 to a Q9550. I've had my i5 for about a year now, so I'm definitely in the market for something new.


Def get the 240. More overhead for upgrading in the future.


----------



## BZ1891

Would the pump that comes with the RX 750 kit be enough to maintain reasonable flow rate if I was to add a second radiator? I'm using it with an RX 360 rad, rasa cpu block and an ek full cover GPU block, I don't think restriction is that bad and wanted to add a Hardware Labs Black Ice SR-1 240 to the loop.

I'm guessing it'll be ok but was hoping someone had tried it and could confirm that.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BZ1891*
> 
> Would the pump that comes with the RX 750 kit be enough to maintain reasonable flow rate if I was to add a second radiator? I'm using it with an RX 360 rad, rasa cpu block and an ek full cover GPU block, I don't think restriction is that bad and wanted to add a Hardware Labs Black Ice SR-1 240 to the loop.
> I'm guessing it'll be ok but was hoping someone had tried it and could confirm that.


Yep, check out my build log and temps at the end.


----------



## pahoran

Hi I have a very n00b question for anyone that can help me, Is there any issue or any decrease in performance if I mount the XSPC 5.25" reservoir + pump upside down or sideways?

Im building my 1st watercooling mod and the PowerMac G5 case has no mouting bays what so ever and a very very limited space inside the case so I would like to take advantage of all the space inside the case. Also whats the main difference between the dual 5.25" bay w/pump to the SINGLE 5.25" bay with pump?
Less water cooling fluid?

I will truly appreciate any imput!
Thank you!

P0w


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Yep, check out my build log and temps at the end.


Thanks, but what was the difference in temps going from the single rx360 to adding the second 240 rad?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pahoran*
> 
> Hi I have a very n00b question for anyone that can help me, Is there any issue or any decrease in performance if I mount the XSPC 5.25" reservoir + pump upside down or sideways?
> Im building my 1st watercooling mod and the PowerMac G5 case has no mouting bays what so ever and a very very limited space inside the case so I would like to take advantage of all the space inside the case. Also whats the main difference between the dual 5.25" bay w/pump to the SINGLE 5.25" bay with pump?
> Less water cooling fluid?
> I will truly appreciate any imput!
> Thank you!
> P0w


Regarding the bays.

*Dual Bay:*
Quote:


> Introducing the new and improved X2O 750 dual bay reservoir pump. The pump is the same great 750lph low noise pump used in the previous model with improved electronics to increase long term reliability.
> 
> The reservoir has been shortened to make it easier to route your tubing when a large PSU or small case is used. On the front we have added 4 screw holes so the front panel can now be changed by using the supplied interchangeable brushed aluminium faceplates or by making your own custom faceplate.
> 
> - G1/4″ threads
> - High quality acrylic
> - Removable brushed aluminium faceplates
> - Brass screw threads
> - Low noise, low vibration (42dB Max)
> - Pump performance: 750 lph
> - Delivery head: 1.8m
> - Voltage: 12V (4pin)
> - Dimensions: 149 x 100 x 85mm (WxDxH)
> - Two 5mm LED holes
> - Individually pressure tested
> 
> Supplied with black and silver faceplates, screws, allen key, and a blue LED.


*Single bay:*
Quote:


> - G1/4″ Thread
> - High Quality Acrylic
> - Removable brushed aluminium faceplates
> - Brass screw threads
> - Low Noise, Low Vibrations
> - Pump-performance: 200 lph
> - Delivery head: 1.2m
> - Voltage: 12V (4pin molex)
> - Individually pressure tested
> - Perfect for compact cases second loops
> 
> Supplied with black and silver faceplates, screws, allen key, and a blue LED.


The single has a much weaker pump and of course less res capacity.

As long as it's got enough water in it, I am not sure what the effect of running the pump/res upside down would be.


----------



## JMattes

Anyone know where i can find h100 vs rasa rx240 kit test results??


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Anyone know where i can find h100 vs rasa rx240 kit test results??


Don't even mess with it. Get the rasa. No competition.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BZ1891*
> 
> Thanks, but what was the difference in temps going from the single rx360 to adding the second 240 rad?
> Regarding the bays.
> *Dual Bay:*
> *Single bay:*
> The single has a much weaker pump and of course less res capacity.
> As long as it's got enough water in it, I am not sure what the effect of running the pump/res upside down would be.


I went from using the 240 on just the cpu to using the 360 and the 240 on the cpu and single gpu. Then, I added a second gpu. Temps are the same as just running the 240 with the cpu.


----------



## Demented

OK, this is what I'm thinking.

I had been wanting to get a new side panel for my K-62 that had grills and places to mount some intake fans to help with cooling my GPUs. In doing that, I would be able to put the dual-bay res/pump from the RX 240 in the spot where I currently have a 120MM intake. I liked using push/pull on my H50, so I'd like to try that with my rad as well. The thing is, I currently am using a 6 fan controller. Is push/pull really that beneficial when using water cooling of this nature as opposed to a self contained unit like the H-series? I'd have a total of 5 140MM fans and 5 120MM fans (3 if I don't do push/pull on the rad.)

I wouldn't be able to control them all, but would be able to control some of them. But wouldn't I want a slightly beefier PSU at this point? Maybe I'm making it out to be more than it needs to be, but I don't want to spend a good amount of dough, then realizing I might need to spend more to power it properly. Since I'm really just using this kit for my CPU, would I really need the 240, or will the 120 suit me fine?


----------



## Fultonloyn

REALLY interested in getting an XSPC kit, but they are out of stock everywhere!







. I could got for the RS240...but in the summer i would like to add GPU coverage as well so I would like to get the 360 if possible. I could always get another 240 rad though...

Any idea as to when the stock might be in again? Thanks!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> REALLY interested in getting an XSPC kit, but they are out of stock everywhere!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I could got for the RS240...but in the summer i would like to add GPU coverage as well so I would like to get the 360 if possible. I could always get another 240 rad though...
> Any idea as to when the stock might be in again? Thanks!


performance-pcs.com has them in stock.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> performance-pcs.com has them in stock.


Thanks a ton! Will be mine soon!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Thanks a ton! Will be mine soon!


NP. Now if someone could help me decide...


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> OK, this is what I'm thinking.
> I had been wanting to get a new side panel for my K-62 that had grills and places to mount some intake fans to help with cooling my GPUs. In doing that, I would be able to put the dual-bay res/pump from the RX 240 in the spot where I currently have a 120MM intake. I liked using push/pull on my H50, so I'd like to try that with my rad as well. The thing is, I currently am using a 6 fan controller. Is push/pull really that beneficial when using water cooling of this nature as opposed to a self contained unit like the H-series? I'd have a total of 5 140MM fans and 5 120MM fans (3 if I don't do push/pull on the rad.)
> I wouldn't be able to control them all, but would be able to control some of them. But wouldn't I want a slightly beefier PSU at this point? Maybe I'm making it out to be more than it needs to be, but I don't want to spend a good amount of dough, then realizing I might need to spend more to power it properly. Since I'm really just using this kit for my CPU, would I really need the 240, or will the 120 suit me fine?


IMO I would say go ahead and get the 240. More rad fins=lower temps. If you have the space and have the money, go for the 240. If you want GPU coverage you can always add a rad and/or pump to the setup.

As far as the PSU, if you have sli/xfire cards and are running a high OC on your CPU, you could need a 1000w. As for me, i run a i7 920 @ 4.01 ghz and have a MSI 6950 TFII. My PSU is great and i do not really need it. Fans and FC shouldnt take up that much wattage and amps.

EDIT: after looking at your sig, I would say It coudnt hurt to upgrade. Rather be safe than sorry.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> IMO I would say go ahead and get the 240. More rad fins=lower temps. If you have the space and have the money, go for the 240. If you want GPU coverage you can always add a rad and/or pump to the setup.
> As far as the PSU, if you have sli/xfire cards and are running a high OC on your CPU, you could need a 1000w. As for me, i run a i7 920 @ 4.01 ghz and have a MSI 6950 TFII. My PSU is great and i do not really need it. Fans and FC shouldnt take up that much wattage and amps.


Worth it to buy 2 more Ultra Kaze 3ks for push/pull with the rad, or if I wanted to test, I could just use the two I have, coupled with the 1700RPM ones XSPC gives me? Also, what are some good 140MM fans that I can use on the side panel? I'd like to be able to get everything from performance-pcs.com.

EDIT: I also thought I'd like to get some blue tubing, so it matches my rig more. So what's some good tubing as well?


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Worth it to buy 2 more Ultra Kaze 3ks for push/pull with the rad, or if I wanted to test, I could just use the two I have, coupled with the 1700RPM ones XSPC gives me? Also, what are some good 140MM fans that I can use on the side panel? I'd like to be able to get everything from performance-pcs.com.
> EDIT: I also thought I'd like to get some blue tubing, so it matches my rig more. So what's some good tubing as well?


As end users, I would say yes. WC is for us to get the lowest temps possible. I am actually doing the same with the 360 using 4 cougars and the two 1700rpm provided fans. I would just try and get the push/pull fans on the controller to try and match their speeds.

For 140's the Yate Loons fair pretty well. They tend to be a tad bit on the noisy side, but perform well. Also, Scythe is worth checking out. I would recommend the Cougar Vortex if you want silent operation. =) (not on perf. pc though =(

As far as tubing, Primochill LRT is the way to go. Offers tons of options with quality material.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> As end users, I would say yes. WC is for us to get the lowest temps possible. I am actually doing the same with the 360 using 4 cougars and the two 1700rpm provided fans. I would just try and get the push/pull fans on the controller to try and match their speeds.
> For 140's the Yate Loons fair pretty well. They tend to be a tad bit on the noisy side, but perform well. Also, Scythe is worth checking out. I would recommend the Cougar Vortex if you want silent operation. =) (not on perf. pc though =(
> As far as tubing, Primochill LRT is the way to go. Offers tons of options with quality material.


Thanks a lot, you've been very helpful. How's this look:

Shopping Cart

I chose the Lian Li ones since I think they are the same as my case ones, plus they look like they come with grills that will match the two that come with the kit, so I'd be covered if I push/pull. I can switch the Lian Li fans for some blue UV ones by Yate Loon, if you think that they will provide enough light to actually make the UV tubing look cool. They will be attached to that side panel to bring in fresh air for my GPUs. Also, I haven't chosen any TIM yet. I was thinking MX-4 is pretty good?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Worth it to buy 2 more Ultra Kaze 3ks for push/pull with the rad, or if I wanted to test, I could just use the two I have, coupled with the 1700RPM ones XSPC gives me? Also, what are some good 140MM fans that I can use on the side panel? I'd like to be able to get everything from performance-pcs.com.
> EDIT: I also thought I'd like to get some blue tubing, so it matches my rig more. So what's some good tubing as well?


You def want to do push pull if you have the room. As far as the PSU, the one you have may be reaching the limits for your system. May I suggest the following solution.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817121090


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> You def want to do push pull if you have the room. As far as the PSU, the one you have may be reaching the limits for your system. May I suggest the following solution.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817121090


That's kind of what I was thinking with adding a pump, more fans. Hmm, this is getting to be a bit more expensive than I originally planned to spend. Looking at close to $400 if I buy a new PSU as well. That is if I get everything that I wanted to get, and I am the type of guy to go all in or not at all.

EDIT: I think that if I were going to do this, I'd do it right and get a PSU that will last me a while, and survive future upgrades.

It would be the most money I have ever spent on a PSU, but it would be well spent, right?

Seasonic Platinum 1000W


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> That's kind of what I was thinking with adding a pump, more fans. Hmm, this is getting to be a bit more expensive than I originally planned to spend. Looking at close to $400 if I buy a new PSU as well. That is if I get everything that I wanted to get, and I am the type of guy to go all in or not at all.
> EDIT: I think that if I were going to do this, I'd do it right and get a PSU that will last me a while, and survive future upgrades.
> It would be the most money I have ever spent on a PSU, but it would be well spent, right?
> Seasonic Platinum 1000W


Holy hell!!! That is a sweet PSU....


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Holy hell!!! That is a sweet PSU....


I know, right? And now being on Newegg has got me looking at possible better options for a case. I think I'm sold on the PSU regardless of what I do, since my Antec is probably on it's last year of warranty. Thought of getting the Corsair 600t, but not sure if the RX240s rad will fit inside, mounted at the top, with 2 of the fans on the outer part of the case, and the other two hanging from the top inside. I'm thinking it might be too cramped. Plus, with only one 200MM intake up front, and the 120MM in the rear as exhaust, I'd worry about my GPUs getting too hot. Unless I attached 4 120MM fans to the side panel, and did them as exhaust. I like the idea of the 600ts built in fan controller to use for my rad fans. Then I'd still be able to use my fan controller for other case fans.

With my current case, I'd have the radiator outside the case fully, and then one intake on the front, two on the side. The top fans would be exhaust as well as the rear. I think that's better airflow for my GPUs. I wish newegg sold the XSPC kits...heh

EDIT: I see that my Antec has a 5 year warranty. That means I still have 3 years of it left.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Thanks a lot, you've been very helpful. How's this look:
> Shopping Cart
> I chose the Lian Li ones since I think they are the same as my case ones, plus they look like they come with grills that will match the two that come with the kit, so I'd be covered if I push/pull. I can switch the Lian Li fans for some blue UV ones by Yate Loon, if you think that they will provide enough light to actually make the UV tubing look cool. They will be attached to that side panel to bring in fresh air for my GPUs. Also, I haven't chosen any TIM yet. I was thinking MX-4 is pretty good?


It's really up to you. I'm not sure the YL UV ones will provide that much light. Just pick up a UV bar of some sort. I like te matching idea personally.

For TIM, mx-4 has great reviews. I use Artic Silver 5 just bc is has been around forever. In TIMs you will only see a 2-3c variation among manuf. this makes it pretty much negligible to me.

Hope your rig comes together well! You should also look into a corsair PSU. Post some pics when it's built!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> It's really up to you. I'm not sure the YL UV ones will provide that much light. Just pick up a UV bar of some sort. I like te matching idea personally.
> For TIM, mx-4 has great reviews. I use Artic Silver 5 just bc is has been around forever. In TIMs you will only see a 2-3c variation among manuf. this makes it pretty much negligible to me.
> Hope your rig comes together well! You should also look into a corsair PSU. Post some pics when it's built!


If I do this, I'm going to get this PSU. I figure go big, or go home.







Should keep me satisfied for future upgrade/rebuilds.

Seasonic Platinum 1000W

It was really starting to get there in cost, with the extra two Lian Li fans, the side panel I wanted, better tubing an all. I'm still mulling over the idea fully, and I'm getting some pet rats very soon, so I have to see how much I can afford after that. I do think that my original idea of the side panel, and two fans there to help with my GPUs is a good idea. I definitely would like to take the dive, since I'm always interested in trying new things, especially when concerning a PC.

Also, I've read that some people say there is no real gain in going push/pull. Is this true? It could save me like $30 on UK3Ks if there is really no benefit.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> If I do this, I'm going to get this PSU. I figure go big, or go home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should keep me satisfied for future upgrade/rebuilds.
> Seasonic Platinum 1000W
> It was really starting to get there in cost, with the extra two Lian Li fans, the side panel I wanted, better tubing an all. I'm still mulling over the idea fully, and I'm getting some pet rats very soon, so I have to see how much I can afford after that. I do think that my original idea of the side panel, and two fans there to help with my GPUs is a good idea. I definitely would like to take the dive, since I'm always interested in trying new things, especially when concerning a PC.
> Also, I've read that some people say there is no real gain in going push/pull. Is this true? It could save me like $30 on UK3Ks if there is really no benefit.


This is the danger of building computers! Haha I feel the same way. Do it right the first time so upgrades are minimal.

Push/Pull is purely beneficial. Think about this: you only have two fans pulling heat from the rad. With FOUR fans your are pushing fresh cool air in the rad as the liquid passes through it and dissipating the heat. This will keep your water cooler and in turn make your PC run cooler.

There are more factors of course, but this is the general idea.


----------



## ri.sho

Just finished setting up my XSPC RX360 kit and like to know if my temps are within range for this setup, under 1hr Prime95 load I avg 32-35C and 17-20C idle.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I know, right? And now being on Newegg has got me looking at possible better options for a case. I think I'm sold on the PSU regardless of what I do, since my Antec is probably on it's last year of warranty. Thought of getting the Corsair 600t, but not sure if the RX240s rad will fit inside, mounted at the top, with 2 of the fans on the outer part of the case, and the other two hanging from the top inside. I'm thinking it might be too cramped. Plus, with only one 200MM intake up front, and the 120MM in the rear as exhaust, I'd worry about my GPUs getting too hot. Unless I attached 4 120MM fans to the side panel, and did them as exhaust. I like the idea of the 600ts built in fan controller to use for my rad fans. Then I'd still be able to use my fan controller for other case fans.
> With my current case, I'd have the radiator outside the case fully, and then one intake on the front, two on the side. The top fans would be exhaust as well as the rear. I think that's better airflow for my GPUs. I wish newegg sold the XSPC kits...heh
> EDIT: I see that my Antec has a 5 year warranty. That means I still have 3 years of it left.


Look at the case in my build log. You will want it. NZXT switch 810. Also comes in white and black.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Look at the case in my build log. You will want it. NZXT switch 810. Also comes in white and black.


That is one hell of a case. Definitely room to add another whole Rasa kit if/when I want to/am able to.

Thanks a lot, buddy...my finances hate you...







Definitely the top contender. Though it's a full tower and I've always had mid towers. I have the room since my rig is no longer on the floor below my desk. It has it's own little bookcase to sit on.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ri.sho*
> 
> Just finished setting up my XSPC RX360 kit and like to know if my temps are within range for this setup, under 1hr Prime95 load I avg 32-35C and 17-20C idle.


i can't say for sure if those are normal for that setup. but those temps are great. Are you going to be getting a K series chip for that setup? Seems like a waste on a chip you can't overclock.
My sisters i5 2400 only gets up to like 40c under full load with the stock cooler.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Thanks to everyone who helped! Just ordered my RASA RX 360 with Primochill UV Blue tubing. Also picked up the Raystorm, IandH biocide, and a UV bar to show off those tubes! =) Just need to get some distilled water this week!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Thanks to everyone who helped! Just ordered my RASA RX 360 with Primochill UV Blue tubing. Also picked up the Raystorm, IandH biocide, and a UV bar to show off those tubes! =) Just need to get some distilled water this week!


wait you bought a rasa kit and then turned around and bought the raystorm block? You know they make a raystorm kit just like the rasa kit, but it comes with the raystorm block instead.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> wait you bought a rasa kit and then turned around and bought the raystorm block? You know they make a raystorm kit just like the rasa kit, but it comes with the raystorm block instead.


I thought those are just kits that frozencpu puts together. They also swap out the pump, res, fittings, and tubing. I don't think it's official xspc.


----------



## JMattes

Dazmode, Performance Pc.. along with the above mentioned Frozencpu all have similar kits.. I do think your correct and they just put it together.. But then again I think they do that for the Rasa too sometimes.. I emailed performance PC about a kit they had sold out and they said they can put it together for me, so its "in stock"

But yea the Raystorm kits have the Raystorm CPU Block, compression fittings and a better pump.. Jab-tech told me there not getting anymore Rasa kits until they fix there pump.. They said they had a lot of customers complain about faulty pumps.. However the Raystorm kits come with a $230 price tag for the RX rad.. were you can get that for $170 on a Rasa kit.. But to my a better CPU block and better pump were with the $60... Which is what you just paid pretty much for the Raystorm block on top of the kit.. So if you cna change your order.. I would!


----------



## ri.sho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> i can't say for sure if those are normal for that setup. but those temps are great. Are you going to be getting a K series chip for that setup? Seems like a waste on a chip you can't overclock.
> My sisters i5 2400 only gets up to like 40c under full load with the stock cooler.


Yea I figured someone would catch that, I was so busy reading up on watercooling since it was my first attempt I didnt not realize I ordered a chip with a locked multiplier, I havent really kepted up with current cpu's would work best for OCing on my basic P8P67 mobo with 1155, any suggestions? Thanks


----------



## macarule

Okay i got my kit this morning, i put it all in the case etc, let it leak test for about 4 hours and then set it back up in the office, i got good temps at first my load was 62C idle was low 30s so i decided to switch it off to adjust some cables, i switched it back on and went to HW monitor and ran IBT and it was hitting 80C, i cant figure out whats wrong with it, i applied the same amount of themal past that i always do and then spread is evenly across the CPU ive tightened the pressure knobs which made no difference, im stumped, anyone got any ideas?


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Dazmode, Performance Pc.. along with the above mentioned Frozencpu all have similar kits.. I do think your correct and they just put it together.. But then again I think they do that for the Rasa too sometimes.. I emailed performance PC about a kit they had sold out and they said they can put it together for me, so its "in stock"
> But yea the Raystorm kits have the Raystorm CPU Block, compression fittings and a better pump.. Jab-tech told me there not getting anymore Rasa kits until they fix there pump.. They said they had a lot of customers complain about faulty pumps.. However the Raystorm kits come with a $230 price tag for the RX rad.. were you can get that for $170 on a Rasa kit.. But to my a better CPU block and better pump were with the $60... Which is what you just paid pretty much for the Raystorm block on top of the kit.. So if you cna change your order.. I would!


I bought this kit git from performnace PC. It fit my bidget the best really. I wanted the raystorm block and plan to sell the regular black Acetal Block. I didnt really have enough to get the 279.99 USD kit. That is the lowest offered 'Extreme" kit. So i got the RS360 kit , the Raystorm, PrimoChill tubing, IAndH, and a UV bar for less than the total of that kit. It will all be upgraded eventually i suppose. Just needed a starting place.


----------



## macarule

checked the block, cpu and cpu socket, block and cpu are flat and socket isnt warped, im stumped i dont know what it going on here








its hooked up res/pump>radiator>cpu block>res/pump.

load temps are about 74C idle is about 40C ambient temperatures are 26C and its an i7 920 at 4GHz 1.33v

has anyone got any idea what it could be?


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> checked the block, cpu and cpu socket, block and cpu are flat and socket isnt warped, im stumped i dont know what it going on here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its hooked up res/pump>radiator>cpu block>res/pump.
> load temps are about 74C idle is about 40C ambient temperatures are 26C and its an i7 920 at 4GHz 1.33v
> has anyone got any idea what it could be?


Try changing the order? Res/pump, CPU block, rad, res pump...

also, are you running the C0 version or D0 steeping? I have the same CPU and run 4.01ghz at 1.22. Every CPU is different so I could have lucked out.


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> checked the block, cpu and cpu socket, block and cpu are flat and socket isnt warped, im stumped i dont know what it going on here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its hooked up res/pump>radiator>cpu block>res/pump.
> load temps are about 74C idle is about 40C ambient temperatures are 26C and its an i7 920 at 4GHz 1.33v
> has anyone got any idea what it could be?


I had a similar issues to you. So i noticed when I took the block off it was a little convex. So i just ordered a differant block and my idles went down to 30-35C and load went to 55-60C. Beofre that they was around 40-45C idle and 65 to 70C under load. The block I got to replace it with is the EK Supreme HF full nickel.

I got in contact with XSPC and they said that the convex on the block was normal. But the big differance in temps told me otherwise.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Try changing the order? Res/pump, CPU block, rad, res pump...
> also, are you running the C0 version or D0 steeping? I have the same CPU and run 4.01ghz at 1.22. Every CPU is different so I could have lucked out.


D0 stepping i got a "slightly better than normal one haha. ill leave it for now, its not that big of a deal it runs stable and wont get to 74 in gaming...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BackwoodsNC*
> 
> I had a similar issues to you. So i noticed when I took the block off it was a little convex. So i just ordered a differant block and my idles went down to 30-35C and load went to 55-60C. Beofre that they was around 40-45C idle and 65 to 70C under load. The block I got to replace it with is the EK Supreme HF full nickel.
> I got in contact with XSPC and they said that the convex on the block was normal. But the big differance in temps told me otherwise.


When i get some money ill get a new block then, thats what i noticed and the past was only spreading in the middle of the block and not evenly shows what a small convex can do









Ill get some pics up of it tomorrow *now*


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> D0 stepping i got a "slightly better than normal one haha. ill leave it for now, its not that big of a deal it runs stable and wont get to 74 in gaming...
> When i get some money ill get a new block then, thats what i noticed and the past was only spreading in the middle of the block and not evenly shows what a small convex can do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill get some pics up of it tomorrow *now*


Don't change the order of the tubing. You want it to go from res to pump to rad then to cpu. Pumps heat up the water. Also, evenly spreading the TIM paste on the cpu is not the best solution. Everyone has an opinion on how to do it. I would clean the block and the cpu off. Then, put the paste in the middle of the CPU. Use a dot the size of a large grain of rice. Then install the block back on. Make sure to evenly tighten the screws as you go. That might help.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Don't change the order of the tubing. You want it to go from res to pump to rad then to cpu. Pumps heat up the water. Also, evenly spreading the TIM paste on the cpu is not the best solution. Everyone has an opinion on how to do it. I would clean the block and the cpu off. Then, put the paste in the middle of the CPU. Use a dot the size of a large grain of rice. Then install the block back on. Make sure to evenly tighten the screws as you go. That might help.


yeah, now that i think about that, loop order doesnt have that large of an effect on temps. good call.


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BackwoodsNC*
> 
> I had a similar issues to you. So i noticed when I took the block off it was a little convex. So i just ordered a differant block and my idles went down to 30-35C and load went to 55-60C. Beofre that they was around 40-45C idle and 65 to 70C under load. The block I got to replace it with is the EK Supreme HF full nickel.
> I got in contact with XSPC and they said that the convex on the block was normal. But the big differance in temps told me otherwise.


Interesting man im ordering a block now to replace the raystorm


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Don't change the order of the tubing. You want it to go from res to pump to rad then to cpu. Pumps heat up the water. Also, evenly spreading the TIM paste on the cpu is not the best solution. Everyone has an opinion on how to do it. I would clean the block and the cpu off. Then, put the paste in the middle of the CPU. Use a dot the size of a large grain of rice. Then install the block back on. Make sure to evenly tighten the screws as you go. That might help.


how much do you suggest i tighten the block down?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> how much do you suggest i tighten the block down?


That is a good question. I usually go until it is no longer movable. Just to the point after it stops being "wobbly" Not sure how many turns that is, but I make sure to do the same amount of turns on each screw. If you tighten too much, that can give you bad temps as well.


----------



## macarule

i tightened it down until you needed to use effort to tighten them, it was about 6 turns or something, im new to all this, but i still shouldn't be getting that high temps on custom water i know that for sure, seeing as my ven X got similar temps


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> i tightened it down until you needed to use effort to tighten them, it was about 6 turns or something, im new to all this, but i still shouldn't be getting that high temps on custom water i know that for sure, seeing as my ven X got similar temps


Did you re do the TIM paste?


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Interesting man im ordering a block now to replace the raystorm


Which block?

Please don't say EK Nickel.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Did you re do the TIM paste?


do you mean did i re do the TIM after taking out the Ven-X then yes of course i did! im still hitting 76-77 max no matter how much or little TIM i put on, the less i put on the higher the temp seems to go, i thought it might be a warped socket but i dont see that its warped i even checked with the metal ruler and a piece of glass and while the blocks on its got a small gap round the edge about 0.5mm but i seem to get really crap contact no matter how i install it, ive firgured it might be due to the convex of the block itself


----------



## macarule

looks like my socket was slightly warped







i took the front of the socket off (it just clips off) and tested it and im hitting high 60s instead of high 70s if this is the problem im happy to leave it off and let the block hold it in place! the motherboard only cost me $100 and i have a sabertooth that i am RMAing in may its not a problem, ive dropped it almost 10C and thats using the crappy thermal paste that is included so i should see a few more with new thermal paste


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark*
> 
> Which block?
> Please don't say EK Nickel.


I thinking about the Apogee HD. Any tips anyone?
Why not the EK Nickel?!?!


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> I thinking about the Apogee HD. Any tips anyone?


raystorm? or Daz 5noz? If you posted reasons why you don't want neither of those 2 then well i am sorry i didn't read lol


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> raystorm? or Daz 5noz? If you posted reasons why you don't want neither of those 2 then well i am sorry i didn't read lol


Lol i have the raystorm and i think i could be getting better temps, i have 44 idles and 59 loads at 4Ghz 1.24V.

So i want a better block

I saw the new ek mounting and i liked it. Ek copper+plexi is the way


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Lol i have the raystorm and i think i could be getting better temps, i have 44 idles and 59 loads at 4Ghz 1.24V.
> So i want a better block
> I saw the new ek mounting and i liked it. Ek copper+plexi is the way


That is high. Have you attempted to lap the cpu block so it is even?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> looks like my socket was slightly warped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i took the front of the socket off (it just clips off) and tested it and im hitting high 60s instead of high 70s if this is the problem im happy to leave it off and let the block hold it in place! the motherboard only cost me $100 and i have a sabertooth that i am RMAing in may its not a problem, ive dropped it almost 10C and thats using the crappy thermal paste that is included so i should see a few more with new thermal paste


I was talking about since you installed the wc block. You said that you smoothed out the past evenly on the cpu before installing the block. That has been proven to not be as effective a the "grain of rice" method. At least for me it hasn't. You do not want a lot of TIM on the cpu. Too much will have the opposite effect, so will tightening down the block too much.


----------



## macarule

yeah i used a small dot in the middle but didnt smooth it out this time... anyway here are my temps at the moment CPU is actually OC;ed to 4GHz @ 1.33v just clocked down due to speedstep, the room was 22c. I am quite happy with the temps coming from 77c a from of 10c which is quite a bit difference, seems like the best ill get until i buy myself some MX4 which should lower it a few more







What do you guys think?


----------



## douglatins

Well i just bought a EK supreme HF copper from Frozen.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Well i just bought a EK supreme HF copper from Frozen.


how nuch for the ray storm?


----------



## .theMetal

quick question for the club, how is this kit:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=32275

compared to say the h50 I'm running now and maybe a Noctua d14? I know I would get better performance out of a 240 radiator, but I really like the way a single radiator fits in my case and I don't want to really hack things up quite yet (down the road I will) but for now I really want to stick to a 120x120 radiator.

In the future, I'm sure there will be a different processor a maybe different gpu's, but for now it will ONLY be cooling my 965be.

what do you think?


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> quick question for the club, how is this kit:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=32275
> compared to say the h50 I'm running now and maybe a Noctua d14? I know I would get better performance out of a 240 radiator, but I really like the way a single radiator fits in my case and I don't want to really hack things up quite yet (down the road I will) but for now I really want to stick to a 120x120 radiator.
> In the future, I'm sure there will be a different processor a maybe different gpu's, but for now it will ONLY be cooling my 965be.
> what do you think?


I'd get the 240 and mount it on the outside of your case. It will easily beat an h50 or D14 if you push your overclock. Most people think they will see a decrease in idle temps (I saw a slight increase), but when I put it under load and when I push the OC more, watercooling really comes into play. I wouldn't bother with it for a stock build. But if you want to take your 965 to much higher clocks, then go ahead and get a 240 (plus you wanted to add a GPU).


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> I'd get the 240 and mount it on the outside of your case. It will easily beat an h50 or D14 if you push your overclock. Most people think they will see a decrease in idle temps (I saw a slight increase), but when I put it under load and when I push the OC more, watercooling really comes into play. I wouldn't bother with it for a stock build. But if you want to take your 965 to much higher clocks, then go ahead and get a 240 (plus you wanted to add a GPU).


yea the gpu is way down the road though, I'm just looking to get some experience with real water cooling and push the 965 up past 4.0 which is its limit on the my h50.

and I will bring the think out side the case later but for now I really want to just use the 120x120 inside the case


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> yeah i used a small dot in the middle but didnt smooth it out this time... anyway here are my temps at the moment CPU is actually OC;ed to 4GHz @ 1.33v just clocked down due to speedstep, the room was 22c. I am quite happy with the temps coming from 77c a from of 10c which is quite a bit difference, seems like the best ill get until i buy myself some MX4 which should lower it a few more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?


That's quite high I think.


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> yea the gpu is way down the road though, I'm just looking to get some experience with real water cooling and push the 965 up past 4.0 which is its limit on the my h50.
> and I will bring the think out side the case later but for now I really want to just use the 120x120 inside the case


Realize that the RX version is going to be MUCH thicker than the H50 Radiator. Make sure you have somewhere to put it.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> Realize that the RX version is going to be MUCH thicker than the H50 Radiator. Make sure you have somewhere to put it.


Yup I'm good to go there, I just put a shroud between the push fan and radiator of my h50 last night with tons of room to spare.

so what kind of temp differences will I see do you think? and maybe compared to the d14? Its running right now at 4ghz, idle temps are around 32c and load are around 52c


----------



## rdfloyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Yup I'm good to go there, I just put a shroud between the push fan and radiator of my h50 last night with tons of room to spare.
> so what kind of temp differences will I see do you think? and maybe compared to the d14? Its running right now at 4ghz, idle temps are around 32c and load are around 52c


I have no idea. If you had a 2500k, I could help; but I have no idea for a 965. Sorry.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdfloyd*
> 
> I have no idea. If you had a 2500k, I could help; but I have no idea for a 965. Sorry.


o no prob man thanks for the help anyways, I appreciate it


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Yup I'm good to go there, I just put a shroud between the push fan and radiator of my h50 last night with tons of room to spare.
> so what kind of temp differences will I see do you think? and maybe compared to the d14? Its running right now at 4ghz, idle temps are around 32c and load are around 52c


Those temps are decent for any processor. d14 I assume is a pump. It should help a couple degrees.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> That's quite high I think.


what temps are you getting on your 930 at what overclock?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Those temps are decent for any processor. d14 I assume is a pump. It should help a couple degrees.


I was actually talking about the noctua d14, massive air cooler (I know thats a dirty word in this thread







)


----------



## Kokin

Hey guys, I was wondering if any of you guys are selling the Intel mounting bracket (1155 specifically)? I do have the AMD bracket for trade if you are interested. This is for the XSPC Rasa CPU block.

Please shoot me a PM!
Someone was nice enough to send it to me for just the shipping rate.







Thank you Eric!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> I was actually talking about the noctua d14, massive air cooler (I know thats a dirty word in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


You probably won't see a big difference with an RX120, but you can always buy that now and expand by adding a 240/360mm rad in the future. With my experience, I wouldn't really bother watercooling an AMD chip unless you plan on watercooling you GPUs as well.

With my setup, my CPU runs the same as an H50 (25 idle, 40ish load), but my GPUs run super cool (28 idle, 35 load). This is with only a triple rad, so temps could definitely be better if I add another rad.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You probably won't see a big difference with an RX120, but you can always buy that now and expand by adding a 240/360mm rad in the future. With my experience, I wouldn't really bother watercooling an AMD chip unless you plan on watercooling you GPUs as well.
> With my setup, my CPU runs the same as an H50 (25 idle, 40ish load), but my GPUs run (28 idle, 35 load). This is with only a triple rad, so temps could definitely be better if I add another rad.


Ok awesome that was really what I needed to know. I may have a chance to get a un used noctua off of craigslist for pretty cheap. There are definitely plans of upgrade in the future, but I won't be for a while, and I just dont see the point to water cool my little 560's. They run cool and quiet even overclocked. Sometime I'll probably end up getting a 680 and a new processor but I'm holding out to see how the piledriver and IB do. Then I will do the full water loop.

thanks kokin


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Ok awesome that was really what I needed to know. I may have a chance to get a un used noctua off of craigslist for pretty cheap. There are definitely plans of upgrade in the future, but I won't be for a while, and I just dont see the point to water cool my little 560's. They run cool and quiet even overclocked. Sometime I'll probably end up getting a 680 and a new processor but I'm holding out to see how the piledriver and IB do. Then I will do the full water loop.
> thanks kokin


Definitely.







I always wanted to try out watercooling, so I went that path and I don't regret it one bit. While it does initially take a big chunk of money to make, only blocks would need to be changed if I ever do component upgrades or just a mounting bracket change for me right now.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Definitely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always wanted to try out watercooling, so I went that path and I don't regret it one bit. While it does initially take a big chunk of money to make, only blocks would need to be changed if I ever do component upgrades or just a mounting bracket change for me right now.


yea, this is partly what keeps drawing me to just grab the kit and have a blast. but I'm also talking twice the money of the noctua, and I'm really wanting to get an SSD soon too.

decisions, decisions


----------



## Kokin

I got lucky as I got both my 5870s for $230 total and my case + half my WCing gear for $80, so I coudln't resist.


----------



## .theMetal

o yea yea, I remember you talking about that.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> o yea yea, I remember you talking about that.


I would say go for the noctua then. It does really well for air. Get your SSD. Then, once you figure out your CPU/GPU choices, then worry about getting the WC kit. Also, remember, these kits usually have mounting brackets for both. If you were to get the WC kit, it should work with whichever CPU you choose down the road.

If it were me, I would get the WC kit for the CPU, then wait on the GPU blocks until you decide which card to get.


----------



## .theMetal

awesome, thanks for the input everyone, definitely helps with my decision


----------



## Fultonloyn

Having some trouble with the rasa kit on my x58 board. There is a mount already on there from my xig Dark Knight. The rasa kit screws fit fine. I jut feel like I am pressing rather hard to get the block on..any thoughts? Also, any way tiger the old one off? Seems to be glued down. Ive tried, but afraid to damage the mobo...


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Having some trouble with the rasa kit on my x58 board. There is a mount already on there from my xig Dark Knight. The rasa kit screws fit fine. I jut feel like I am pressing rather hard to get the block on..any thoughts? Also, any way tiger the old one off? Seems to be glued down. Ive tried, but afraid to damage the mobo...


A hair dryer or heatgun, cautiously used to heat up the adhesive should help it come off easy. If it's similar to the backplate of the H50, it took a bit of force on my part when I changed motherboards a bit ago.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> A hair dryer or heatgun, cautiously used to heat up the adhesive should help it come off easy. If it's similar to the backplate of the H50, it took a bit of force on my part when I changed motherboards a bit ago.


Yeah, I definitely is going to take some force. What you do you mean by, "cautiously?" As in dont melt any other parts? lol


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Yeah, I definitely is going to take some force. What you do you mean by, "cautiously?" As in dont melt any other parts? lol


Yes, primarily if you use a heat gun. Those suckers are HOT!!!


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Yes, primarily if you use a heat gun. Those suckers are HOT!!!


The best I have is a hair dyer..ill turn that on high and wait a bit! Thanks for the advice!


----------



## pvt.joker

yeah, i've skinned my knuckles plenty of times pulling off adhesive backplates..







damn solder points really do a number on your hands.


----------



## Demented

I'll add myself to the club once I've actually gotten it, and set it all up in *Project: SWITCH W A V E*.

Looking forward to getting this!


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Got my Kit in last week. Swapped out the radiator and hose.


----------



## Fultonloyn

testing going really well...no leaks..thanks for all the advice..final pics in a bit


----------



## dalastbmills

Hey guys, I am seriously considering one of these kits. I was laying in bed last night and had decided I was going to get the Thermaltake Bigwater 760, but soon changed my mind to one of the Rasa kits instead. I am curious as to whether a kit can support a full loop? Either way I go, I plan on modding the kit with some extra rads and such, but I haven't heard too many good things about the Thermaltake, and have never heard a bad review on the Rasa. I currently have an H80 on my 2600k and 2 620's modded onto my 480's and I am really looked to clean up my PC and get rid of all the radiatos and tubing and such. Any thoughts? I am leaning towards a 240 kit, as I can not fit anything bigger then a dual rad in my case.

Edit: Is it worth it to upgrade from an H80?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dalastbmills*
> 
> Hey guys, I am seriously considering one of these kits. I was laying in bed last night and had decided I was going to get the Thermaltake Bigwater 760, but soon changed my mind to one of the Rasa kits instead. I am curious as to whether a kit can support a full loop? Either way I go, I plan on modding the kit with some extra rads and such, but I haven't heard too many good things about the Thermaltake, and have never heard a bad review on the Rasa. I currently have an H80 on my 2600k and 2 620's modded onto my 480's and I am really looked to clean up my PC and get rid of all the radiatos and tubing and such. Any thoughts? I am leaning towards a 240 kit, as I can not fit anything bigger then a dual rad in my case.
> Edit: Is it worth it to upgrade from an H80?


I would think if you want to run it all, you'd probably want a 240 for just the CPU, and either another 240 for the GPUs, or a 360 for them. I'm totally new to 'real' water cooling, so I'm only going by what I read.


----------



## dalastbmills

I've read some h50 modding, and I was thinking of using a radiator from an Antec 620, as it already has barbs for tubing. Would a 240+ 120 be sufficient for a full loop, CPU and SLi 480's?


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dalastbmills*
> 
> I've read some h50 modding, and I was thinking of using a radiator from an Antec 620, as it already has barbs for tubing. Would a 240+ 120 be sufficient for a full loop, CPU and SLi 480's?


I have heard of many people using 240 and 360 rads with H50's to find the pump dead in a weeks time. The pump was never intended to be used with such flow restrictions.


----------



## dalastbmills

Using the h50 block/pump with bigger radiators? I was going to cut off the tubing from the Antec system and just use the radiator. I can imagine any of the all in one cooling systems uses special radiators or anything. If I move to a rasa system I wil have an abundance of coking solutions and figure I can save some $$$$ by being creative.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dalastbmills*
> 
> Using the h50 block/pump with bigger radiators? I was going to cut off the tubing from the Antec system and just use the radiator. I can imagine any of the all in one cooling systems uses special radiators or anything. If I move to a rasa system I wil have an abundance of coking solutions and figure I can save some $$$$ by being creative.


Look at my build log in my sig. Started out as a Rasa RS240 kit. Still using everything that came in the kit + an EX360 and 2 DD GTX 480 Fullcover blocks.


----------



## karmuhhhh

Evening everyone! I made a thread in the WC forum, but someone suggested I ask my questions here in this thread, so here is a copy/paste of my original post:

After the awesome success I have been having with my CM Hyper N520 (which isn't even that great of a cooler, to be honest) on my 1045T, I sort just want to push it even further. I am able to have my 1045t stable at 4.20GHz while pushing 1.45v through it. However, at that voltage my temps sometimes reach 57-58ish degrees, which is higher than the recommended 55C at full load for AMD processors, so I have it downclocked to 4.0GHz.

I have heard a lot of hype about the XSPC Rasa 750 kit here on OCN and how it's a good performer for the money. I was considering an H100, but honestly I want something more "hands on." So now that I have told you what I have in mind, I do have a few questions:

-Is the XSPC Rasa 750 really worth it for the price?
-I have never watercooled before, so how much maintenance is involved? Do I have to flush out the system every X months? What does general maintenance entail?
-Will I need to mod my Fractal Design Arc Midi in any way to make this kit stay up (I.E. mounting the reservoir/pump)?
-What tools are needed in order to install this kit?
-If the XSPC Rasa 750 is not a good enough kit, what would be recommended for less than $150?

Thanks in advance for the help


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karmuhhhh*
> 
> Evening everyone! I made a thread in the WC forum, but someone suggested I ask my questions here in this thread, so here is a copy/paste of my original post:
> After the awesome success I have been having with my CM Hyper N520 (which isn't even that great of a cooler, to be honest) on my 1045T, I sort just want to push it even further. I am able to have my 1045t stable at 4.20GHz while pushing 1.45v through it. However, at that voltage my temps sometimes reach 57-58ish degrees, which is higher than the recommended 55C at full load for AMD processors, so I have it downclocked to 4.0GHz.
> I have heard a lot of hype about the XSPC Rasa 750 kit here on OCN and how it's a good performer for the money. I was considering an H100, but honestly I want something more "hands on." So now that I have told you what I have in mind, I do have a few questions:
> -Is the XSPC Rasa 750 really worth it for the price?
> -I have never watercooled before, so how much maintenance is involved? Do I have to flush out the system every X months? What does general maintenance entail?
> -Will I need to mod my Fractal Design Arc Midi in any way to make this kit stay up (I.E. mounting the reservoir/pump)?
> -What tools are needed in order to install this kit?
> -If the XSPC Rasa 750 is not a good enough kit, what would be recommended for less than $150?
> Thanks in advance for the help


Glad to see you here! You are in the correct place for all these questions!

1.YES. The Rasa 750 kits are a great starting point for most WC builds. Depending on your cooling setup though you might want to upgrade the pump to a more efficient one yo maintain your 1GPM flow. This ia great kit to "dive in" with. It has a decent price and can be added to easily.

2. Generally, people change their loops every 6-9 months. If you make a drain line or some sort this is SO EASY. It is also advisable to break your kit down and clean the parts. You can get some light corrosion, and some build up in spots. This may take a couple hours at most. So, MAYBE twice a year? Distilled water has proven to be the best and its cheap. Really as long as your kit has no leaks, there is NO maintence. (unless you are like me and are always trying to make it better in some sense:thumb

3. Im really not sure on this since I have never worked with this case. Google is your best friend.

4. For the rasa kit.....nothing..barbs should only go finger tight and the CPU block is hand screw too. Maybe a screw driver? Well, and something to cut your tubing with.

5. I say the RASA 750's are a fantastic kit. The EK kits are a little more expensive but they have a better pump and a few other things. I really heard a lot more positive things about the rasa so i went with the RS360. It performs like a dream.

Hope this helps.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karmuhhhh*
> 
> -Will I need to mod my Fractal Design Arc Midi in any way to make this kit stay up (I.E. mounting the reservoir/pump)?


this should answer the one question he couldn't answer, here is my ARC MIDI with a rasa 750 RS240 installed with no modifications at all:


----------



## ViperSB1

Well, this WAS a RASA 750 kit... Currently the only part I'm still using from the kit is the RS360 radiator... and I only got the kit about 2 months ago... LOL


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> this should answer the one question he couldn't answer, here is my ARC MIDI with a rasa 750 RS240 installed with no modifications at all:


dude....sweet build.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dalastbmills*
> 
> Using the h50 block/pump with bigger radiators? I was going to cut off the tubing from the Antec system and just use the radiator. I can imagine any of the all in one cooling systems uses special radiators or anything. If I move to a rasa system I wil have an abundance of coking solutions and figure I can save some $$$$ by being creative.


The All-in-One systems do use aluminum radiators to save costs and most custom loop rads use copper rads. You'd have to add something to disrupt the galvanic corrosion between your copper blocks/rads and aluminum rad from the Antec AIO.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> dude....sweet build.


Thanks Flutonloyn


----------



## Skyboss

I have the RS240 kit and was wondering if anyone is using a flow indicator for 1/2"ID tubing? Does anyone have any good part numbers or manufacturers they use? I can't seem to find any that fit the 1/2" ID.


----------



## dark-edge

Hello everyone, I finished my first attempt at water cooling. I stumbled upon this thread while I was looking for the name of the xspc fill port and decided to come back and post my creation. I've been building computers for years, but never went with watercooling due to the price barrier. After I got my 6990, my temperatures were outrageous and my system was unbearably loud, so I decided to make the additional investment. My awesome girlfriend got me the XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 kit for Christmas and I added a bit more to it. Tell me what you think.
The loop goes like this:
Pump=>CPU=>EX240=>6990=>RX360=>Reservoir
The RX360 has x3 CM Sickleflow fans in pull (they were free after rebate and do a good enough job for me)
The EX240 has x2 Yate Loon Slim 120mm Fans in push (not much space in the lower compartment for a rad and fans so slim fans were a must)
The 6990 has a Koolance VID-AR699 Block that I got used for $65
I also took the advice of some previous users and just went direct to the Primochill tubing and used a drop of dish soap to help get rid of extra air (it worked wonders).







My temps are great with all the fans set around 900rpm and best of all, my system is silent again.


----------



## EKfine

hi all! just got into water setup. i have the rs 240 kit i only uplgraded the fans(scythe), fittings and tubes that comes with it. pull config, i get 28c // 68c (idle//prime95) room temp 28c, 2600k [email protected] i used the paste that comes with it, cant find my artic yet.. is this temps high or just ok?

if i added a gpu block (single gfx card) in the loop do i need to add another 240 rad?


----------



## karmuhhhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Glad to see you here! You are in the correct place for all these questions!
> 1.YES. The Rasa 750 kits are a great starting point for most WC builds. Depending on your cooling setup though you might want to upgrade the pump to a more efficient one yo maintain your 1GPM flow. This ia great kit to "dive in" with. It has a decent price and can be added to easily.
> 2. Generally, people change their loops every 6-9 months. If you make a drain line or some sort this is SO EASY. It is also advisable to break your kit down and clean the parts. You can get some light corrosion, and some build up in spots. This may take a couple hours at most. So, MAYBE twice a year? Distilled water has proven to be the best and its cheap. Really as long as your kit has no leaks, there is NO maintence. (unless you are like me and are always trying to make it better in some sense:thumb
> 3. Im really not sure on this since I have never worked with this case. Google is your best friend.
> 4. For the rasa kit.....nothing..barbs should only go finger tight and the CPU block is hand screw too. Maybe a screw driver? Well, and something to cut your tubing with.
> 5. I say the RASA 750's are a fantastic kit. The EK kits are a little more expensive but they have a better pump and a few other things. I really heard a lot more positive things about the rasa so i went with the RS360. It performs like a dream.
> Hope this helps.


That's awesome to know, thank you for all the replies! Quick questions though: What is "1GPM" and what does it mean/do? Also, you mention creating a "drain line," what exactly does that entail? I'm glad to know that it won't take too much maintenance to keep running, that is always a good thing to hear. I'm definitely going to do some more research and see what I can come up with for my system









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> this should answer the one question he couldn't answer, here is my ARC MIDI with a rasa 750 RS240 installed with no modifications at all:
> 
> _-Pictures snipped-_


Wow, that looks awesome! Thank you so much for posting that up







As for the pump, I notice in your pics and heard from other users that it requires the only two 5.25" bays that we have in our case, so that is a bit of a disappointment because I use my DVD burner quite frequently, but I can always replace it with an external one, so that's not much of an issue. However, I was wondering if you wouldn't mind taking a few more pictures of the front of your machine with a bit more detail just so I could see how well the front plate blends in with the front of the Arc Midi case? If it looks good then I think I will definitely go with this kit. Thanks guys!


----------



## karmuhhhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EKfine*
> 
> hi all! just got into water setup. i have the rs 240 kit i only uplgraded the fans(scythe), fittings and tubes that comes with it. pull config, i get 28c // 68c (idle//prime95) room temp 28c, 2600k [email protected] i used the paste that comes with it, cant find my artic yet.. is this temps high or just ok?
> if i added a gpu block (single gfx card) in the loop do i need to add another 240 rad?
> _-Snipped-_


I don't know anything about watercooling so I can't say how well your temps are, but I have to say your setup looks amazing! I love the color scheme and how everything shows through the window there. What kind of case is it you have? It's hard to tell with the dark pictures


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark-edge*
> 
> Hello everyone, I finished my first attempt at water cooling. I stumbled upon this thread while I was looking for the name of the xspc fill port and decided to come back and post my creation. I've been building computers for years, but never went with watercooling due to the price barrier. After I got my 6990, my temperatures were outrageous and my system was unbearably loud, so I decided to make the additional investment. My awesome girlfriend got me the XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 kit for Christmas and I added a bit more to it. Tell me what you think.
> The loop goes like this:
> Pump=>CPU=>EX240=>6990=>RX360=>Reservoir
> The RX360 has x3 CM Sickleflow fans in pull (they were free after rebate and do a good enough job for me)
> The EX240 has x2 Yate Loon Slim 120mm Fans in push (not much space in the lower compartment for a rad and fans so slim fans were a must)
> The 6990 has a Koolance VID-AR699 Block that I got used for $65
> I also took the advice of some previous users and just went direct to the Primochill tubing and used a drop of dish soap to help get rid of extra air (it worked wonders).
> 
> My temps are great with all the fans set around 900rpm and best of all, my system is silent again.


Beautiful system. I really like the blue with green highlights.

With that gpu, I would recommend another 240. I started with a 240 and actually got a 360 to add when I went to cool my gpu's. I am sure it helps.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EKfine*
> 
> hi all! just got into water setup. i have the rs 240 kit i only uplgraded the fans(scythe), fittings and tubes that comes with it. pull config, i get 28c // 68c (idle//prime95) room temp 28c, 2600k [email protected] i used the paste that comes with it, cant find my artic yet.. is this temps high or just ok?
> if i added a gpu block (single gfx card) in the loop do i need to add another 240 rad?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful system.
> 
> With that gpu, I would recommend another 240. I started with a 240 and actually got a 360 to add when I went to cool my gpu's. I am sure it helps.
Click to expand...


----------



## Dwood

All these build look awesome. I made me a custom cover for the dual bay reservoir. Anyone interested in one? It can have just about anything on it, check my signature for more info.


----------



## EKfine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karmuhhhh*
> 
> I don't know anything about watercooling so I can't say how well your temps are, but I have to say your setup looks amazing! I love the color scheme and how everything shows through the window there. What kind of case is it you have? It's hard to tell with the dark pictures


oi thanks! its nzxt 410 elite. here you go.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EKfine*
> 
> oi thanks! its nzxt 410 elite. here you go.


Actually, your temps look fine. Nice build.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karmuhhhh*
> 
> That's awesome to know, thank you for all the replies! Quick questions though: What is "1GPM" and what does it mean/do? Also, you mention creating a "drain line," what exactly does that entail? I'm glad to know that it won't take too much maintenance to keep running, that is always a good thing to hear. I'm definitely going to do some more research and see what I can come up with for my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, that looks awesome! Thank you so much for posting that up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the pump, I notice in your pics and heard from other users that it requires the only two 5.25" bays that we have in our case, so that is a bit of a disappointment because I use my DVD burner quite frequently, but I can always replace it with an external one, so that's not much of an issue. However, I was wondering if you wouldn't mind taking a few more pictures of the front of your machine with a bit more detail just so I could see how well the front plate blends in with the front of the Arc Midi case? If it looks good then I think I will definitely go with this kit. Thanks guys!


1 GPM stands for 1 Gallon Per Minute. This is your flow rate. To achieve the best results, this should be your goal. Quite honestly, the XSPC pump that is the dual bay res is not the strongest but, it is a great starting point. You can ALWAYS upgrade at a later point in time.

A drain line is just a simple T fitting that you can purchase to aid with maintenance on your loop. When it is time to drain and clean the line this makes it much easier than trying to flip your computer around..I actually do not have one, but plan on adding it in the near future.

Hope this helps you.


----------



## selluminis

THis is coming the mail to replace my current XSPC dual bay res/pump plate. Work done by Dwood. Check him out.


----------



## Fultonloyn

My XSPC setup with the Raystorm block.


----------



## kody7839

I'm looking to pick up one the RASA extreme kits with the EX240 along with another 240 rad to cool my CPU and new GTX680. I have a CM 690II and want both rads to be inside the case. The EX240 that comes with the kit will be in the top with some push AP15's mounted under the top plastic cover. For the bottom I was wondering if you guys think it would be better to go with another EX240 with P/P AP-15's or get an RX240 with some AP-15s in pull? I was thinking the thicker RX will allow me to run the fans a little slower for less noise while retaining the good cooling, but wanted some feedback from you guys as well.

Thanks.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839*
> 
> I'm looking to pick up one the RASA extreme kits with the EX240 along with another 240 rad to cool my CPU and new GTX680. I have a CM 690II and want both rads to be inside the case. The EX240 that comes with the kit will be in the top with some push AP15's mounted under the top plastic cover. For the bottom I was wondering if you guys think it would be better to go with another EX240 with P/P AP-15's or get an RX240 with some AP-15s in pull? I was thinking the thicker RX will allow me to run the fans a little slower for less noise while retaining the good cooling, but wanted some feedback from you guys as well.
> Thanks.


Any time you can run push/pull is better than just running pull. Also, if you are only running 2 fans, I think it is better to run push instead of pull. I could be wrong. The RX rads take slower fans due to the surface area of the rads. The EX rads need faster fans since they are thinner. They offer the same performance of the RX rads, but you have to use faster/louder fans.


----------



## karmuhhhh

Hey guys, quick question: What is better for my case (Arc Midi), an RS240 rad with push/pull config, an RX240 rad with just push, or an RX240 rad with just pull?

I've never set up a watercooling rig before so I want to make sure I do everything right!


----------



## someonewhy

Guys quick question soon i am getting water cooling kit and i am kinda new with this...i am planning to get the rx360 rev2 does this box:

needs to be inside the case or outside?and do i need a thermal paste?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *someonewhy*
> 
> Guys quick question soon i am getting water cooling kit and i am kinda new with this...i am planning to get the rx360 rev2 does this box:
> 
> needs to be inside the case or outside?and do i need a thermal paste?


That box will go into 2 5.25 bays. So, yes it will be on the outside and the inside.

TIM paste comes with the kits, but they say it is not the best. I used it and I now have ARC 5. I did not really see a difference. People are saying to get the MX4 stuff. IDK IMO I did not really see a difference.



Welcome to the club. I also apologize as you will spending a lot of cash over the next few months tweaking you loop to get it just how you want it. LOL.


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BZ1891*
> 
> Would the pump that comes with the RX 750 kit be enough to maintain reasonable flow rate if I was to add a second radiator? I'm using it with an RX 360 rad, rasa cpu block and an ek full cover GPU block, I don't think restriction is that bad and wanted to add a Hardware Labs Black Ice SR-1 240 to the loop.
> I'm guessing it'll be ok but was hoping someone had tried it and could confirm that.


Just to add to above regarding adding a HWlabs black ice sr-1 240 radiator. Load temps dropped by about 10c for both cpu and gpu. I do have relatively low restriction components in my loop though.







Idle midday system temps. Room temperature is around 21c.



A short video of Battlefield 3 MP with HD 6970 @950/1375 to demonstrate GPU temps. Further details in video description.



*Click on video to view*

Managed to overclock the CPU to 4.9GHz with HT enabled and did a quick prime small FFT run for maximum heat, might try for 5Ghz later when I am comfortable with 4.9Ghz and have some more time. All system fans at around 700 RPM, or well below for fans attached to controller. Ambient room temps were around 23c as it was a warmish day.



Finally, a noise test conducted while running above stress test.



*Click on video to view*


----------



## selluminis

Holy hell!!! That thing looks like something Frankenstein created. Nice build.


----------



## Zaphodb2002

Hello all, I just picked up a RS360 kit from FrozenCPU, it should be here on tomorrow, looking forward to installing it. This will be my first foray into liquid cooling and serious overclocking, and I'm very excited, if a little scared. It's good to know there's a good community for this kit if I need help. Looking forward to joining the group. I'll post pics when I get the thing installed!


----------



## BZ1891

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Holy hell!!! That thing looks like something Frankenstein created. Nice build.


Thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaphodb2002*
> 
> Hello all, I just picked up a RS360 kit from FrozenCPU, it should be here on tomorrow, looking forward to installing it. This will be my first foray into liquid cooling and serious overclocking, and I'm very excited, if a little scared. It's good to know there's a good community for this kit if I need help. Looking forward to joining the group. I'll post pics when I get the thing installed!


This is just the start, you're going to be hooked.


----------



## Zaphodb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BZ1891*
> 
> This is just the start, you're going to be hooked.


I can already tell. I've been doing nothing but researching overclocking and cooling since I ordered the thing on Tuesday. Everything here on OCN is such an inspiration. I've always thought I had a badass machine, but I've just barely scratched the surface. We'll see how deep this rabbit hole goes.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaphodb2002*
> 
> I can already tell. I've been doing nothing but researching overclocking and cooling since I ordered the thing on Tuesday. Everything here on OCN is such an inspiration. I've always thought I had a badass machine, but I've just barely scratched the surface. We'll see how deep this rabbit hole goes.


I would suggest creating a watercooling trust fund. As soon as I got my first real loop completed It only last a month before I made changes. I have torn down my machine 5 times in the last 2 months. It is sitting in pcs now at home waiting for me to install my newest upgrades.

Take a look at my build log in my sig and see all the changes I keep making. LOL. I am going to get banned for all of the pics I keep posting.


----------



## Kaneda13

Hey guys, i've had my 750 up and running for a while, but didn't know this club existed. here's a shot of mine (just got the video card looped in today):










before the GPU was put in the loop:









as she sits now:









here's a link to the mod i did for the video card.


----------



## karmuhhhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Hey guys, i've had my 750 up and running for a while, but didn't know this club existed. here's a shot of mine (just got the video card looped in today):
> _-Snipped-_
> here's a link to the mod i did for the video card.


Wow, that looks great! As a someone seriously considering this kit, it is great to know how good it looks in the Fractal Design Arc series


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Well i just bought a EK supreme HF copper from Frozen.


Have your temps gotta any better?


----------



## Zaphodb2002

So I got the kit installed today, and wow, it's a huge difference. Idle temps used to be 25-40C, now 10-20C, and with a Prime95 load, used to be 75-80C, now 24C! Incredible.

Can I be a member of the club now, and start using the nifty sig tag line?


----------



## macarule

Have you overclocked it yet?


----------



## Zaphodb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Have you overclocked it yet?


Of course! Running 4.4GHz now, keeping a steady 40°C while folding. Could probably go higher, but it's late and I need sleep.


----------



## cgull

hi guys . water noob here, looking to take the plunge on my first w/c setup

want to confirm that i would need rx240 + rs 240 to cool cpu + 2x gts250's in my cm 690 ii adv case.
cpu will be o/c, gpu's maybe.. my board has them pretty close so on air the top one gets 20 deg cel hotter under load (folding), water should solve this prob.

originally i thought i could get way with the just xspc rx240 kit, but after some lurking on these forums i suspect i'd need to add another rad..
the rs240 would be the max i could get inside the case..
rs on top,rx on bottom will fit..dont want anything outside the case

I'd like to get some opinions , and $$$ arent growing on the tree's around here so need to minimise spend.

would the pump/res combo in the kit be enough for 2 rads, and 3 blocks?

is it worth putting universal blocks on the vid cards ie do they work a lot better than air?

any input would be appreciated


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaphodb2002*
> 
> Of course! Running 4.4GHz now, keeping a steady 40°C while folding. Could probably go higher, but it's late and I need sleep.


what about temps while Priming or IBT?


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> hi guys . water noob here, looking to take the plunge on my first w/c setup
> want to confirm that i would need rx240 + rs 240 to cool cpu + 2x gts250's in my cm 690 ii adv case.
> cpu will be o/c, gpu's maybe.. my board has them pretty close so on air the top one gets 20 deg cel hotter under load (folding), water should solve this prob.
> originally i thought i could get way with the just xspc rx240 kit, but after some lurking on these forums i suspect i'd need to add another rad..
> the rs240 would be the max i could get inside the case..
> rs on top,rx on bottom will fit..dont want anything outside the case
> I'd like to get some opinions , and $$$ arent growing on the tree's around here so need to minimise spend.
> would the pump/res combo in the kit be enough for 2 rads, and 3 blocks?
> is it worth putting universal blocks on the vid cards ie do they work a lot better than air?
> 
> any input would be appreciated


it should be fine, ive seen more powerful systems under water with just a single 360 rad, 2 x 240 rads will be fine for what you have, but i would suggest a more powerful pump to get some decent flow rates


----------



## cgull

so ditch the pump/res in the kit and get a d5/ddc pump/res?

$$ wise i was hoping to get the rasa kit and add rad,gpu blocks,colour tubing,kill coil, few rotary fittings etc...if i get a seperate, decent pump/res it makes the kit less attactive..

could i just add a another low power pump to the kit , like EK-DCP 2.2 , ie have 2 low power pumps?...first thought is no as i'm assuming you'd need 2 identical pumps for uniform flow..


----------



## Darylrese

Always wanted a RASA 240 kit but too scared to mix water with my expensive hardware







Knowing my luck it would get ruined by leaking


----------



## fuadm424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> so ditch the pump/res in the kit and get a d5/ddc pump/res?
> $$ wise i was hoping to get the rasa kit and add rad,gpu blocks,colour tubing,kill coil, few rotary fittings etc...if i get a seperate, decent pump/res it makes the kit less attactive..
> could i just add a another low power pump to the kit , like EK-DCP 2.2 , ie have 2 low power pumps?...first thought is no as i'm assuming you'd need 2 identical pumps for uniform flow..


You should look into the XSPC RX240 extreme kit from frozencpu. It comes with a D5 pump and dual bay reservoir, RX240 rad, raystorm CPU block, kill coil and compression fittings.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Always wanted a RASA 240 kit but too scared to mix water with my expensive hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knowing my luck it would get ruined by leaking


Well you do know your still at risk for leaking with that H50? When I got my RASA kit, I was replacing my H50. When I removed the H50, much to my surprise I found it had been leaking. Fluid was on my NB and top video card, had even leaked into the top pci-e slot a bit as well. I was lucky because it did not damage anything. Hate to think what may have happened if I had not gotten the RASA kit when I did.


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Always wanted a RASA 240 kit but too scared to mix water with my expensive hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knowing my luck it would get ruined by leaking
> 
> 
> 
> Well you do know your still at risk for leaking with that H50? When I got my RASA kit, I was replacing my H50. When I removed the H50, much to my surprise I found it had been leaking. Fluid was on my NB and top video card, had even leaked into the top pci-e slot a bit as well. I was lucky because it did not damage anything. Hate to think what may have happened if I had not gotten the RASA kit when I did.
Click to expand...

That's unlucky!! How are you finding the rasa kit compared to the H50 you had before? I'm just cornerned about leaking due to user error etc. I think I'd be worried to leave it on when I'm not there incase of a leak. I do love the look of the rasa 240 kit though! Would it be enough to WC a CPU and a GPU?


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> That's unlucky!! How are you finding the rasa kit compared to the H50 you had before? I'm just cornerned about leaking due to user error etc. I think I'd be worried to leave it on when I'm not there incase of a leak. I do love the look of the rasa 240 kit though! Would it be enough to WC a CPU and a GPU?


I think it depends what you are looking to get out of it. My custom loop does perform much better than the H50 did but my temps were always ok with the H50 as well. I really went to water for the challenge of creating something unique. Custom loops give you so much more you can do with your system, and nothing beats the looks of water cooling. Be warned though, it's addicting and you likely wont stop with the kit. I got my kit about 2 months ago and have already replaced almost every component from it. The ONLY thing I am using from the kit is the rad. If I could do it over I would have just built my own loop from the beginning, although the RASA kit is a great way to get started. And yes, your could definitely cool a gpu and cpu with the RX240 kit. I would reccomend getting a high flow/ low pressure drop block for your gpu if possible, the standard pump is not the most powerfull unless you get the extreme kit that comes with the D5, in which case get whatever block you want.


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Be warned though, it's addicting and you likely wont stop with the kit.


Yes. Insanely true. I've only had my kit in for a few weeks and I already want to add more rads and blocks.

Eventually, the only component left from the kit on my rig will be the CPU block. But there's not much stopping me from changing that out as well.


----------



## Demented

I can't wait to play with my rx240! I'm gonna have 4 UK3Ks, so it might get loud sometimes, but I'm very interested in what temps I can pull.


----------



## Zaphodb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> what about temps while Priming or IBT?


10 minutes of Prime95 gave me 47°C temps, not too shabby. Would probably be better if it wasn't 85°F ambient here. What's IBT?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaphodb2002*
> 
> 10 minutes of Prime95 gave me 47°C temps, not too shabby. Would probably be better if it wasn't 85°F ambient here. What's IBT?


I believe they meant ITB not IBT. Google IntelBurn, another stress test.

Just an FYI on Prime95 temps, with my Thuban I find you reach a max high temp spike at approx the 15 minute mark at which point they drop a few degrees till you hit the one hour mark where I see maybe another degree, maybe two, increase at most and this holds till you get up around the 21 hour mark depending on ambient of course. I sometimes see one more degree increase at this point.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I believe they meant ITB not IBT. Google IntelBurn, another stress test.
> Just an FYI on Prime95 temps, with my Thuban I find you reach a max high temp spike at approx the 15 minute mark at which point they drop a few degrees till you hit the one hour mark where I see maybe another degree, maybe two, increase at most and this holds till you get up around the 21 hour mark depending on ambient of course. I sometimes see one more degree increase at this point.


No, they mean IBT. Intel Burn Test.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I can't wait to play with my rx240! I'm gonna have 4 UK3Ks, so it might get loud sometimes, but I'm very interested in what temps I can pull.


Reach 5ghz like me!


----------



## robert125381

how well does the bay res match the finish on a 650 or 800d?


----------



## pahoran

hey guyz so been reading alot and will be buying TODAY!








but im still confused about the whole barbs and compression fittings part. Im gonna oder the rasa rs240 kit which comes with 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD tubing with G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6.
in my cart I added the PrimoChill PrimoFlex LRT Tubing 3/8'" ID 1/2" OD w 1/16" wall.

Will the PrimoFlex 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing fit on the barbs that comes with the kit?
Im planning to use the barbs till I save some more money for compression fittings but would like to order the tubing now and use it, then swap out the barbs for compression fittings.

is the 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing too fat? I dont really want fat tubing cause I think it will block the view of the components.
I will be modding a PowerMac G5 case and Its about the size of a mid tower case, and I dont want it to look cramped up.
Can you guys point me to the right direction where I can see some pics of different tubing sizes? maybe share some of your build pics?
Also i just noticed that compression fittings are quite expensive! I dont mind I guess cause it comes with the cost of a clean loop. I also dont what fat looking fittings








What would be a good tube and fittings combination that is not too fat? any of your pics?

thanks! can't wait to hit " Process Order "

P0w


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pahoran*
> 
> hey guyz so been reading alot and will be buying TODAY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but im still confused about the whole barbs and compression fittings part. Im gonna oder the rasa rs240 kit which comes with 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD tubing with G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6.
> in my cart I added the PrimoChill PrimoFlex LRT Tubing 3/8'" ID 1/2" OD w 1/16" wall.
> Will the PrimoFlex 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing fit on the barbs that comes with the kit?
> Im planning to use the barbs till I save some more money for compression fittings but would like to order the tubing now and use it, then swap out the barbs for compression fittings.
> is the 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing too fat? I dont really want fat tubing cause I think it will block the view of the components.
> I will be modding a PowerMac G5 case and Its about the size of a mid tower case, and I dont want it to look cramped up.
> Can you guys point me to the right direction where I can see some pics of different tubing sizes? maybe share some of your build pics?
> Also i just noticed that compression fittings are quite expensive! I dont mind I guess cause it comes with the cost of a clean loop. I also dont what fat looking fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would be a good tube and fittings combination that is not too fat? any of your pics?
> thanks! can't wait to hit " Process Order "
> P0w


To fit that tubing you need 3/8" barbs as the 1/2" barbs are very fat. I suggest sticking with stock fittings and tubing and just buy better tubing when you can afford compression fittings otherwise you will have to spend more money to get 6x 3/8" barbs.

Good luck and enjoy your first loop!


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pahoran*
> 
> hey guyz so been reading alot and will be buying TODAY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but im still confused about the whole barbs and compression fittings part. Im gonna oder the rasa rs240 kit which comes with 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD tubing with G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6.
> in my cart I added the PrimoChill PrimoFlex LRT Tubing 3/8'" ID 1/2" OD w 1/16" wall.
> Will the PrimoFlex 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing fit on the barbs that comes with the kit?
> Im planning to use the barbs till I save some more money for compression fittings but would like to order the tubing now and use it, then swap out the barbs for compression fittings.
> is the 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing too fat? I dont really want fat tubing cause I think it will block the view of the components.
> I will be modding a PowerMac G5 case and Its about the size of a mid tower case, and I dont want it to look cramped up.
> Can you guys point me to the right direction where I can see some pics of different tubing sizes? maybe share some of your build pics?
> Also i just noticed that compression fittings are quite expensive! I dont mind I guess cause it comes with the cost of a clean loop. I also dont what fat looking fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would be a good tube and fittings combination that is not too fat? any of your pics?
> thanks! can't wait to hit " Process Order "
> P0w


i'm using PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD and it'll press onto the 1/2" barbs, but just barely. the up side is it's tight enough, you don't have to use clamps to keep it water tight. to get the hoses off the barbs, i have to cut them. a tip is to soak the end of the hoses in really hot water for a few seconds before pushing them onto the barbs.


----------



## pahoran

ha thats true bro i just really like the white amd black primoflex tubing! Im only ordering 2feet of each just to test fit and have a cool looking new setup. But ya i dont really need it now








And about the fittings / tubing are 3/8 1/2 too fat? any pics?

Thanks bro!


----------



## JourdanWithaU

7/16-5/8 Primochill PrimoFlex tubing on the provided 1/2 barbs.










I prefer bigger diameter over smaller diameter and move more water through the loop.


----------



## pahoran

the above was @Konin
And man thats awesome you got a crazy good deal on your water cooling setup!

@Kaneda13

hmmm well now im thinking i might just order it even thou ill have to cut it... Hmmm
And i just saw tour signature and yay! Your running OS X 10.7.3 like me!!!
Another fellow hackintosh! Ill be running windows on mine too to game finally!!

Do u have any pics or a build thread? Id love to see tour setup!
Sorry to sound like a n00b but is 7/16 ID 5/8 OD bigger or smaller than 3/8" ID 1/2" OD?
Dont know my fractions either. FAIL.









Thanks so far for the input!

P0w


----------



## Kaneda13

no build thread, but here are some shots:










before adding the GPU to the loop:









after adding the GPU to the loop:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pahoran*
> 
> the above was @Konin
> And man thats awesome you got a crazy good deal on your water cooling setup!
> @Kaneda13
> hmmm well now im thinking i might just order it even thou ill have to cut it... Hmmm
> And i just saw tour signature and yay! Your running OS X 10.7.3 like me!!!
> Another fellow hackintosh! Ill be running windows on mine too to game finally!!
> Do u have any pics or a build thread? Id love to see tour setup!
> Sorry to sound like a n00b but is 7/16 ID 5/8 OD bigger or smaller than 3/8" ID 1/2" OD?
> Dont know my fractions either. FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so far for the input!
> P0w


Thanks!

Just make the fractions match up:

Smallest: 3/8" ID 1/2" OD |||| (6/16" ID 8/16" OD)
Medium: 7/16" ID 5/8" OD |||| (7/16" ID 10/16" OD)
Largest: 1/2" ID 3/4" OD |||| (8/16" ID 12/16" OD)
Get the Medium/Large if you want to keep the 1/2" barbs, otherwise you will need 3/8" barbs for the Small tubing.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> i'm using PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD and it'll press onto the 1/2" barbs, but just barely. the up side is it's tight enough, you don't have to use clamps to keep it water tight. to get the hoses off the barbs, i have to cut them. a tip is to soak the end of the hoses in really hot water for a few seconds before pushing them onto the barbs.


I can second that.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> hi guys . water noob here, looking to take the plunge on my first w/c setup
> want to confirm that i would need rx240 + rs 240 to cool cpu + 2x gts250's in my cm 690 ii adv case.
> cpu will be o/c, gpu's maybe.. my board has them pretty close so on air the top one gets 20 deg cel hotter under load (folding), water should solve this prob.
> originally i thought i could get way with the just xspc rx240 kit, but after some lurking on these forums i suspect i'd need to add another rad..
> the rs240 would be the max i could get inside the case..
> rs on top,rx on bottom will fit..dont want anything outside the case
> I'd like to get some opinions , and $$$ arent growing on the tree's around here so need to minimise spend.
> would the pump/res combo in the kit be enough for 2 rads, and 3 blocks?
> is it worth putting universal blocks on the vid cards ie do they work a lot better than air?
> 
> any input would be appreciated


The pump that is used the with rasa kit is fine. Look at the build log in my sig. I am using it on a fairly robust loop and it is keeping up just fine. However, I am sure the d5 will be better with twice the flow rate. At least that is what they say. Just make sure you also order different tubing. Most of us use the primoflex pro lrt stuff. I like it. The RX 240 and RS 240 should fine. You might also look at the RS 240 kit with the EX360 added. That is a very cost effective set up and has proven well for me.

CPU + 2 GPU.

The RX kits and the Raystorm block are def better, if you have the money.


----------



## cgull

the extreme kit would be purrfect, but i live in oz and none of the retailers here have it..postage from the US is prohibitive to say the least,between $70-$273!!..pity, its a much better pump and the cpu block has extra bling...i cant fit a 360 internally so i'll have stick with 2 x 240 rads..the primoflex tubing seems highly recomended and i was going for the blue so i dont use any dye,which some have said causes probs..I think i'll stick with the standard pump for now..,selluminis, your rig looks awesome!! the switch 810 would be my next case choice..fit really well with my fdr3 and cm690ii..rep+1 for good taste and great answer..


----------



## selluminis

Thanks for complement.


----------



## joeyxl

Hello guys, Mind if i join?

NZXT Phantom Red:

core-i5 [email protected] 2.4Ghz (stock, no overclocking _yet)_
XSPC RS240 Kit
Idle:24-28C
load:40-44C

Heres some pics!


----------



## Lagpirate

Hey guys, I am a complete Newbie when it comes to watercooling so i thought that i would come here for some advice. Im currently in the market for a kit, and the xspc rasa 750 is looking pretty nice. Ive been looking around but i always come right back to the rasa kit lol. is this kit compatible with all motherboards? I honestly have no idea. I have an Asus sabertooth 990 fx,


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lagpirate*
> 
> Hey guys, I am a complete Newbie when it comes to watercooling so i thought that i would come here for some advice. Im currently in the market for a kit, and the xspc rasa 750 is looking pretty nice. Ive been looking around but i always come right back to the rasa kit lol. is this kit compatible with all motherboards? I honestly have no idea. I have an Asus sabertooth 990 fx,


there is nothing in this kit that is motherboard specific. as long as you have a place to mouth your radiator in the case, a CPU that is supported by the cooler hold downs, and 2 5.25" bays for the pump, this kit will work just fine.


----------



## Darylrese

Will the rasa 240 kit cool an overclocked I5 2500K AND an overclocked GPU?

I only have space for a dual radiator.

How safe is it to water cool your PC these days?


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Will the rasa 240 kit cool an overclocked I5 2500K AND an overclocked GPU?
> I only have space for a dual radiator.
> How safe is it to water cool your PC these days?


Need a little more info what are your OC and what GPU? The more heat you need to dissapate the more rad space you need. The RX240 could work, but if you ever add another GPU you will most likely need the 360 or an additonal 240


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Will the rasa 240 kit cool an overclocked I5 2500K AND an overclocked GPU?
> I only have space for a dual radiator.
> How safe is it to water cool your PC these days?


Yeah, if you only plan on 1 gpu. Make sure you get the RX240. I ended up with a EX 360 and RS240 for 1 cpu and 2 GPU.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Yeah, if you only plan on 1 gpu. Make sure you get the RX240. I ended up with a EX 360 and RS240 for 1 cpu and 2 GPU.


The rx240 is enough, are you sure? I've heard otherwise.


----------



## Zaphodb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> How safe is it to water cool your PC these days?


I was pretty damn worried about water cooling as well, but putting this kit together was a cinch. Now that I've done it, I can't believe I haven't been doing it all along. This is an excellent kit to start with, and really upped my confidence. I'll be adding GPU water blocks as soon as I can afford them.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> The rx240 is enough, are you sure? I've heard otherwise.


I am sure, but we still need to know your plans for your OC. I assume your hardware will be the same as what is in your sig? It is always better to get more than you think you need in case your choice is wrong. Can you mount a 360 on the outside of your case? I was fully confident that my RS240 would handle my 2500k oc to 4.8 and my GPU. However, I ended up going SLI, so got the EX360 in there.

As for the safety of water cooling, it is safe if you do it right. Your best bet is to use distilled water as it is non conductive. The rasa kits should come with a kill coil. That will keep the nasties out of the water. Some people still add a drop of PT nuke or something like that.

You want to leak test. It is recommended that you test for 24 hours, but for me I feel you only need 2 to 4 hours. Keep the PSU on the outside of the case while testing. The rasa kits also come with a wire harness to short the PSU and make it run with out having it connected to the mobo or using a paper clip. Make sure you thoroughly plan your loop before constructing it. That has bitten me before. Not fun. Should any water leak on your components, they will not be energized so they should be okay. Just make sure the parts are dried well before putting power to them. Just to be on the safe side.

Perhaps you should also considering upgrading your case to one that is more WC friendly as well. Check out the NZXT switch 810. It is awesome!. Look at it in my build log in my sig. I do not think I will need another case for some time.

Have fun is the most important thing in all of this.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> The rx240 is enough, are you sure? I've heard otherwise.


I'm cooling an i7 860 OC'ed to 3.36 and a non-overclocked GTX470 on an RS240, idle temps at 24*C on the CPU and 30*C on the GPU, neither CPU or GPU get over 42*C with benchmarking or several hours of MMO gaming.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> I'm cooling an i7 860 OC'ed to 3.36 and a non-overclocked GTX470 on an RS240, idle temps at 24*C on the CPU and 30*C on the GPU, neither CPU or GPU get over 42*C with benchmarking or several hours of MMO gaming.


Yeah, I had done tons of research on whether or not it would work. Then, I found a good deal on a second card and got it. LOL. Was planning on running my RS240 just like that. RX should have no problems.


----------



## Gainward

Hi guys

I have the Rs360 kit and i want to upgrade it to get better temps on my overclocked 2600K
Should i go with a new Rad or a new pump like the MCP655?

EDIT: On my Rs360, i use 3 fans with very low RPM (1000 or so) and i like it this way, so maybe i should get an extra rad?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> Hi guys
> I have the Rs360 kit and i want to upgrade it to get better temps on my overclocked 2600K
> Should i go with a new Rad or a new pump like the MCP655?
> EDIT: On my Rs360, i use 3 fans with very low RPM (1000 or so) and i like it this way, so maybe i should get an extra rad?


A better rad would help. A better pump might help. I am using the 750 pump that came with the RS kits to run an EX360 and RS 240 with no problems. You might see a difference with a better pump and a new rad. Hard to tell.

You could also try adding 3 fans and running push pull.

Is the 2600k all you are watercooling? What are your temps? What is the overclock at? What is the voltage?


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> A better rad would help. A better pump might help. I am using the 750 pump that came with the RS kits to run an EX360 and RS 240 with no problems. You might see a difference with a better pump and a new rad. Hard to tell.
> You could also try adding 3 fans and running push pull.
> Is the 2600k all you are watercooling? What are your temps? What is the overclock at? What is the voltage?


I'm not sure if the pump will hold up if I get another rad, because the new rad will be mounted at the bottom of the case while I have the RS360 mounted at the top


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> I'm not sure if the pump will hold up if I get another rad, because the new rad will be mounted at the bottom of the case while I have the RS360 mounted at the top


I do not see why the pump would not hold..It may be a slightly weak pump, but unless you have some crazy restrictive blocks it should do okay. The other option is to buy a new pump AND res becuase the XSPC is a sealed unit....


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> I do not see why the pump would not hold..It may be a slightly weak pump, but unless you have some crazy restrictive blocks it should do okay. The other option is to buy a new pump AND res becuase the XSPC is a sealed unit....


If i stick to option 1 (extra rad) which rad do you recommend? I was thinking about the XSPC EX240


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> If i stick to option 1 (extra rad) which rad do you recommend? I was thinking about the XSPC EX240


yeah, if you have the room for one they are pretty darn good. Put some fans on it and you should be just fine. Refresh my memory....1 CPU and 1 GPU?

EDIT: or just 1 cpu?


----------



## Gainward

It's just 1 CPU


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> It's just 1 CPU


You should be MORE than fine with a RS360...thats what i have..works great. Maybe if you had two GPU's you should add a 240....but otherwise you should be pretty set buddy.

It all depends on your ambient temperature...You cannot get sub-ambient temps with standard air and WC.


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> You should be MORE than fine with a RS360...thats what i have..works great. Maybe if you had two GPU's you should add a 240....but otherwise you should be pretty set buddy.
> It all depends on your ambient temperature...You cannot get sub-ambient temps with standard air and WC.


The problem is i want a very quiet PC therefore i use fans with very low flow rate, and the RS rads needs a high flow rate of air (as I understood)
So that's why i need an extra rad .. (or am I wrong?)


----------



## Jobotoo

How quiet do you want/need it?

I also want very quiet, I am using the stock fans on my RX360, running at full speed, and they do not make much noise, in my opinion.


----------



## pvt.joker

and RX series is going to be better for you with low cfm/rpm fans than the RS. So if you're looking for a better solution, i'd say your best bet is to replace the RS360 with an RX360 (if you have the room for it.)


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> The problem is i want a very quiet PC therefore i use fans with very low flow rate, and the RS rads needs a high flow rate of air (as I understood)
> So that's why i need an extra rad .. (or am I wrong?)


Just to echo what the other people have said...and RX would do it. I run the RS with 6 fans and it is pretty quiet. I also have a controller which is super useful..I think adding another Rad is an option but, kind of a waste really...


----------



## selluminis

Dude, look at my build log in my sig. I have temps posted on there too using this pump, rs240 in the bottom, and the ex360 in the top. It will be fine. I am using 88cfm yate loons, but they are on 50% output with the help of a fan controller. Temps stay cool even with benchmarking. I don't even have to raise the fan speed.


----------



## macarule

i have Noiseblocker M12-P's on my RS240 and i hardly find any difference of temperature between 50%-100% maybe 1C, 2C MAX and at 50% they are very Quiet









Also i got a "bad" Rasa block very convex and i was getting bad temperatures due to it so i bought a second hand D-TEK fuzion v2 it was stained quite bad from the previous owner, i soaked it in lemon and it cleaned up really nicely and i managed to get the very stained bottom back to mirror finnish with some Brasso. Temps are down by about 3-5C


----------



## Gainward

Thank you guys for the answers, soon i'll buy the GTX680 and maybe i'll add a waterblock for it and then maybe i'll need a new rad


----------



## kody7839

The Extreme Kit I bought from Performance-PCs along with some extras are all in


----------



## Hydroplane

Some questions:
Is the RS240 still available? I can't seem to find it anywhere on the web. The RS360 is too large to fit inside of my case and the RX240 costs even more than the rs360.

How is the performance between the rs240, rs360, and the rx240? Does the rx240 outperform the rs360? (considering that it costs more)

Any of these should be fine for my Q9550, but if I upgrade to X79 with a 3820 or 3930K @ 5 GHz, would the RS240 handle the temps?


----------



## Zaphodb2002

Hey gang, I recently got a fan controller to handle my fans, and while it controls up to 5 fans at ones, that won't even be enough to handle my rad alone once it's in push/pull. Is there a way to use a splitter to control, say, 3 fans with one 3pin lead from the controller? Maybe a powered splitter or something? Or just splitting the control wire to 3 (or even all 6) fans? Just seems like there's no reason to manipulate each rad fan individually. Those of you with fan controllers, how are you managing your fans?


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydroplane*
> 
> Some questions:
> Is the RS240 still available? I can't seem to find it anywhere on the web. The RS360 is too large to fit inside of my case and the RX240 costs even more than the rs360.
> How is the performance between the rs240, rs360, and the rx240? Does the rx240 outperform the rs360? (considering that it costs more)
> Any of these should be fine for my Q9550, but if I upgrade to X79 with a 3820 or 3930K @ 5 GHz, would the RS240 handle the temps?


The RS are still available (click me), but at the same size you're better off going with the EX series.


----------



## Hydroplane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839*
> 
> The RS are still available (click me), but at the same size you're better off going with the EX series.


Their kits with the EX cost about $100 more though (they only have the ones with the raystorm block) Isn't the RX better than the EK?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaphodb2002*
> 
> Hey gang, I recently got a fan controller to handle my fans, and while it controls up to 5 fans at ones, that won't even be enough to handle my rad alone once it's in push/pull. Is there a way to use a splitter to control, say, 3 fans with one 3pin lead from the controller? Maybe a powered splitter or something? Or just splitting the control wire to 3 (or even all 6) fans? Just seems like there's no reason to manipulate each rad fan individually. Those of you with fan controllers, how are you managing your fans?


You need to research the controllers watt per channel rating and compare the start up voltage for your fans (start up voltage is greater than running voltage) to determine how many fans per channel. These http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1090/cab-05/3-pin_Y_Cable_Splitter.html?tl=g47c251s635 are available in many configurations 3 or 4 pin, sleeved, length etc. You may want/need extensions too or choose to simply make your own harness which is always the cleanest way to go.


----------



## Zaphodb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> You need to research the controllers watt per channel rating and compare the start up voltage for your fans (start up voltage is greater than running voltage) to determine how many fans per channel. These http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1090/cab-05/3-pin_Y_Cable_Splitter.html?tl=g47c251s635 are available in many configurations 3 or 4 pin, sleeved, length etc. You may want/need extensions too or choose to simply make your own harness which is always the cleanest way to go.


Thanks a ton. This was an extremely helpful answer! Looks like I've got some research to do.


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydroplane*
> 
> Their kits with the EX cost about $100 more though (they only have the ones with the raystorm block) Isn't the RX better than the EK?


The EX kits you are referring to cost $100 more because they come with a better CPU block, compression fittings instead of barbs, and a much better pump. They are the "Extreme" kits. They still sell the normal RASA 750 kits with both the RS and RX as shown here at the bottom of the page.

Yes the RX is a better rad, but it's also much thicker than the RS and EX. The only reason I mentioned the EX was because you said you were looking for the RS. At this point I don't see the reason to buy an RS when the EX is basically the same size and does a better job. If you have the room for the RX, by all means get it.

For reference, here are the EX and RX I just put in my system side by side: (EX top, RX bottom)


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839*
> 
> The EX kits you are referring to cost $100 more because they come with a better CPU block, compression fittings instead of barbs, and a much better pump. They are the "Extreme" kits. They still sell the normal RASA 750 kits with both the RS and RX as shown here at the bottom of the page.
> Yes the RX is a better rad, but it's also much thicker than the RS and EX. The only reason I mentioned the EX was because you said you were looking for the RS. At this point I don't see the reason to buy an RS when the EX is basically the same size and does a better job. If you have the room for the RX, by all means get it.
> For reference, here are the EX and RX I just put in my system side by side: (EX top, RX bottom)


has anyone seen a side by side comparison of the RS and the EX. currently running my i7 860 @ 3.34GHz and a stock clocked GTX470 on a single RS240 (and doing a great job of it), but was wondering what the performance gains for moving to and EX240 would do me.


----------



## TwiggLe

Anyone have pics of these kits in a Corsair 400r case?


----------



## JourdanWithaU

http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/3774086

Obviously not mine and he's got a bit more than a 750 kit. But should still give you an idea of possibilities.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydroplane*
> 
> Some questions:
> Is the RS240 still available? I can't seem to find it anywhere on the web. The RS360 is too large to fit inside of my case and the RX240 costs even more than the rs360.
> How is the performance between the rs240, rs360, and the rx240? Does the rx240 outperform the rs360? (considering that it costs more)
> Any of these should be fine for my Q9550, but if I upgrade to X79 with a 3820 or 3930K @ 5 GHz, would the RS240 handle the temps?


Look for the EX240.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaphodb2002*
> 
> Hey gang, I recently got a fan controller to handle my fans, and while it controls up to 5 fans at ones, that won't even be enough to handle my rad alone once it's in push/pull. Is there a way to use a splitter to control, say, 3 fans with one 3pin lead from the controller? Maybe a powered splitter or something? Or just splitting the control wire to 3 (or even all 6) fans? Just seems like there's no reason to manipulate each rad fan individually. Those of you with fan controllers, how are you managing your fans?


Yes, I am controlling 10 with my nzxt sentry 2. It only has 5 headers. Just need to know the wattage of each fan at max and the wattage output of the fan controller and make sure it can handle the amount of fans you are connecting.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> has anyone seen a side by side comparison of the RS and the EX. currently running my i7 860 @ 3.34GHz and a stock clocked GTX470 on a single RS240 (and doing a great job of it), but was wondering what the performance gains for moving to and EX240 would do me.


Look in my build log. There are pics of the EX360 and the RS240. The EX is slightly thicker, but not much. They both do great.


----------



## Hydroplane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> has anyone seen a side by side comparison of the RS and the EX. currently running my i7 860 @ 3.34GHz and a stock clocked GTX470 on a single RS240 (and doing a great job of it), but was wondering what the performance gains for moving to and EX240 would do me.


I'm wondering about the temperature differences going from an rs to an ex to an rx. I can fit the rx in my case, but is the extra $40 worth it for an old Q9550? I should be able to run quieter fans for the same amount of cooling due to the rx's extra thickness. The more expensive EX kits have their advantages, but the price is getting up there and it would make more sense for me to put that amount of money into replacing my 4870x2


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Look in my build log. There are pics of the EX360 and the RS240. The EX is slightly thicker, but not much. They both do great.


i was looking for a performance comparison, thanks thought.


----------



## vite0150

Some days ago i received my rs240 kit








So many things looks different from what i saw on unboxings... For example, the barbs are like black, the fans have mesh on the cables (pic)... but i definetely looks better than what i saw on unboxings









I just have a question... i want to put some mesh on the hose (like on the polemos build, Link)... *What size of mesh you guys recommend?*


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vite0150*
> 
> Some days ago i received my rs240 kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So many things looks different from what i saw on unboxings... For example, the barbs are like black, the fans have mesh on the cables (pic)... but i definetely looks better than what i saw on unboxings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just have a question... i want to put some mesh on the hose (like on the polemos build, Link)... *What size of mesh you guys recommend?*


THIS should work.


----------



## Zaphodb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Yes, I am controlling 10 with my nzxt sentry 2. It only has 5 headers. Just need to know the wattage of each fan at max and the wattage output of the fan controller and make sure it can handle the amount of fans you are connecting.


Man, Selluminis, your rig and mine are gonna have to fight. I've got a Decepticon res cover and etched panel window on the way. My Skywarp and your Switch Prime are like counterparts. Of course, the bad guys are always cooler.


----------



## vite0150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> THIS should work.


Thanks, it looks good









Another question... For what i want to do, i need to buy some compression fittings, so what size i need? (because i saw some time ago than the barbs on this kit are larger than the hose 7/16)... what size for OD and ID? or just the same as the hose?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vite0150*
> 
> Thanks, it looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question... For what i want to do, i need to buy some compression fittings, so what size i need? (because i saw some time ago than the barbs on this kit are larger than the hose 7/16)... what size for OD and ID? or just the same as the hose?


if your doing compression fittings, you have to buy them to match the hose. i use 7/16ID and 5/8OD hoses with 1/2 barbs, and i don't use clamps at all (well, i put 2 on my GPU cooler as decretive).


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaphodb2002*
> 
> Man, Selluminis, your rig and mine are gonna have to fight. I've got a Decepticon res cover and etched panel window on the way. My Skywarp and your Switch Prime are like counterparts. Of course, the bad guys are always cooler.


Usually, I agree with you. However, no bad guy is cooler than Prime. Now matter what, lol. I will be watching your build though.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> i was looking for a performance comparison, thanks thought.


Yes the EX is better than the RS. The EX has just as good performance at the RX series. The major difference with the RX and the EX is the size. The EX has to use faster rated speeds to achieve the same cooling as the RX. I am using yate loo 80CFM fans on my EX and thet are turned down to 50%. They are working well. Was telling you to look at me log, because I have screen of temps in there. And I just want people to see me log....









Let me know if you have any more questions.

I will be looking to sell my RS240 and replace it with an EX240 soon.


----------



## hot120

Here is the cleaning of my RS240 after a YEAR of not cleaning or draining! I know, I should clean it at least every six months, but I wanted to see how the kit would hold up. I must say, it held up well. I did not experience any significant drop in temps over the course of the year. The pump is still whisper quiet, and the kit performs just like it did when it was first purchased.



The best I could do with cable management. Looks good enough for me!



There was blue residue in my reservoir. I am thinking either from the blue tubes or from the small amount of blue liquid Dawn dishwashing soap I used to quiet the pump when I first bought it. The soap worked for quieting the pump, and I haven't heard a peep from it since. I read the soap also helps with getting rid of air bubbles.



Glad to see my application of TIM was near-perfect!



Preparing for the draining. At first, I thought I would have to cut my tubes from the compression fittings, but then I found they just slid right off with a little wiggle action! By the way, compression fittings are awesome! I would highly recommend investing in them.



More of the blue residue.



This is not how the inside of a water block is supposed to look. Do not wait a whole year to clean your water cooling parts people!



The blue residue scraped right off the plastic on this.



I soaked the reservoir, radiator, tubes, and water block in demineralized water, then vinegar, then hot water. I repeated that process twice, then finally soaked everything in demineralized water for about 30 minutes to get all the reside out.



Inside of the water block after cleaning.



Preparing to put everything back together.



Leak check was good, and priming of pump went well. Minimal bubbles after about 15 minutes. Pump was quiet as before.



Everything put back together. Looks good! Let this be a lesson to anyone wanting to get into water cooling. You can't be lazy and not take care of your components. They will fail on you! I did this as an experiment to see what would happen if I didn't clean my components after a year. Surprised there wasn't more that I found. Speaks volumes to the high quality of the Rasa 750 RS240 kit.


----------



## smash_mouth01

Not to be mean, but you are posting the obvious...

Did you even have a kill coil or any anti microbial additive?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Looks to me like your using a dye and thats why your block is so dirty that stuff is bad cause it comes apart and gets stuck in the blocks tubing and res if you use colored tubing that wont happen or shouldnt.


----------



## Hydroplane

hot120, how are your temps on the 970 under full load? what frequency/voltage are you running the 970 at?


----------



## Xraze

Hey all, going to buy the RX240, will the rad be enough for a CPU + GPU Loop? Thanks.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> Hey all, going to buy the RX240, will the rad be enough for a CPU + GPU Loop? Thanks.


Yep, will it be on the CPU and GPU listed in your log? Also, what blocks are you getting?


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> Hey all, going to buy the RX240, will the rad be enough for a CPU + GPU Loop? Thanks.


I'm going to say it will work, but you probably won't get the temps you're looking for with the setup.

You have 1 CPU and 2 GPU's....try to squeeze in another 120 somewhere.


----------



## selluminis

Do you have 1 or 2 GPU?


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Do you have 1 or 2 GPU?


EVGA GTX 590 is shown in his sig and that has 2 GPUs on one card.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839*
> 
> EVGA GTX 590 is shown in his sig and that has 2 GPUs on one card.


Yeah, how does that work then? Would he need 2 waterblocks, one on each side of the card?

NM. I see how it works. There is still only one block. I think he will be fine with a RX 240. I would still suggest to get a 360 though. Just for future growth. Guess an extra 120 would be about the same.


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Yeah, how does that work then? Would he need 2 waterblocks, one on each side of the card?
> NM. I see how it works. There is still only one block. I think he will be fine with a RX 240. I would still suggest to get a 360 though. Just for future growth. Guess an extra 120 would be about the same.


Nope, the make blocks for the 590 like they do other cards (DD for example). They just have a place for 2 GPUs instead of one.


----------



## macarule

just a question, what happens if i dont have a kill coil?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> just a question, what happens if i dont have a kill coil?


You need either a kill coil or some biocide to prevent algae and bacteria from forming. Kill coild is the easier, set it and forget it option.


----------



## macarule

does it have to be a kill coil? can i just add a bit of silver in there?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> does it have to be a kill coil? can i just add a bit of silver in there?


I would assume so. Just make sure it's pure silver, and doesn't get clogged in your pump or anything.

Again, I haven't even set up my kit yet, and have never used real water cooling.







Just going by what I've learned in reading.


----------



## macarule

im talking about maybe an old silver ring or something, i dont see what the difference would be seeing as all silver is 92.5%









EDIT: Added 3 spare links off my heavy silver bracelet, should do the job


----------



## vite0150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> EDIT: Added 3 spare links off my heavy silver bracelet, should do the job


Does it really works?
I also don't have kill coil or nothing for that... I'm in costa rica so here is difficult to find something for pc water cooling...
Or maybe i just should go to an aquarium or maybe a pool shop







i don't know what to do or where to go








BTW i will be using distilled water


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vite0150*
> 
> Does it really works?
> I also don't have kill coil or nothing for that... I'm in costa rica so here is difficult to find something for pc water cooling...
> Or maybe i just should go to an aquarium or maybe a pool shop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i don't know what to do or where to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW i will be using distilled water


Do not put chemicals for a pool into your loop. That would have bad consequences. Probably eat everything up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> im talking about maybe an old silver ring or something, i dont see what the difference would be seeing as all silver is 92.5%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Added 3 spare links off my heavy silver bracelet, should do the job


As long as the ring is pure silver, It should work.


----------



## macarule

Well the 3 links from my bracelet are 92.5% silver which is classified as pure silver


----------



## Kokin

I don't use any silver kill coils at all, just pure distilled water with 2 drops of Dead Water (5% Copper Sulfate).


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I don't use any silver kill coils at all, just pure distilled water with 2 drops of Dead Water (5% Copper Sulfate).


Right. Either use the silver or the additive. You do not need both.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Right. Either use the silver or the additive. You do not need both.


Ever since I read about a few builds with only distilled water and the silver kill coil having corrosion with copper blocks, I decided not to use them. Not say that it happens often (rarely if anything) and it's the wrong thing to do, but I just felt it was a safer plan to not use silver for my first loop.


----------



## ali7up

Can a XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 handle 2600k (OCed to ~5ghz) and 6870 crossfire?


----------



## selluminis

Yep. See my rig. Not that much of a difference. Shows temps and voltages in the build log in my sig. I am running fairly high voltages. Lots of heat.


----------



## Antykain

Concerning the kill coil.. I just bought one of these:










The Monsoon Silver Bullet is a really nice alternative to the 'Kill Coil'.. looks a lot better IMO, as you really don't even see it. All you need is an open port on your loop/s to install it on, and you're good to go! For only $5.95, it's not bad at all..

Performance-PCs: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33961

FrozenCPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15814/ex-tub-1255/Monsoon_999_Fine_Silver_Bullet_Antimicrobial_G_14_Plug_-_Black_MON-PLUG-AG-BLK.html


----------



## Frontside

Is it possible to install this reservoir http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27998 without being seeing on the front pannel of CM 690 II?


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Is it possible to install this reservoir http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27998 without being seeing on the front pannel of CM 690 II?


I don't see why not. Just push back a little further and leave the covers on the front panel in place.


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> Concerning the kill coil.. I just bought one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Monsoon Silver Bullet is a really nice alternative to the 'Kill Coil'.. looks a lot better IMO, as you really don't even see it. All you need is an open port on your loop/s to install it on, and you're good to go! For only $5.95, it's not bad at all..
> Performance-PCs: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33961
> FrozenCPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15814/ex-tub-1255/Monsoon_999_Fine_Silver_Bullet_Antimicrobial_G_14_Plug_-_Black_MON-PLUG-AG-BLK.html


Cool...thanks for sharing. I think I'm going to pick one of these up as well.

+Rep


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Is it possible to install this reservoir http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27998 without being seeing on the front pannel of CM 690 II?


You could really mount that anywhere. The fact that it is rectangular helps with fitting it corners of your case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839*
> 
> Cool...thanks for sharing. I think I'm going to pick one of these up as well.
> +Rep


Looks cool, but seems like it might restrict water flow.


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Looks cool, but seems like it might restrict water flow.


I guess if you put it in a bad spot, but that would be user error.

I'll probably pop in my fill port which is out of the way and not near the inlet or pump.


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> You could really mount that anywhere. The fact that it is rectangular helps with fitting it corners of your case.


But it has collar on the front side where face plate secured with screws. Will it allow to slide it further in a 5.25" bay?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> You could really mount that anywhere. The fact that it is rectangular helps with fitting it corners of your case.
> 
> 
> 
> But it has collar on the front side where face plate secured with screws. Will it allow to slide it further in a 5.25" bay?
Click to expand...

Yep.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839*
> 
> I guess if you put it in a bad spot, but that would be user error.
> I'll probably pop in my fill port which is out of the way and not near the inlet or pump.


Keep in mind they "recommend replacing your Silver Bullet Plugs every 6 to 12 months". Never tried one, so I can't comment about it. There are various threads here about the negative effects of mixing Nickel blocks with silver, so keep that in mind when ordering future parts (like GPU blocks or fittings/connectors).

As far as screwing it into your reservoir, you'll also need this adapter in order to screw it into the fillcap of the reservoir.


----------



## Kaneda13

Been working on some mods all week, got the last fan painted last night, and finished soldering the new lights up, whata ya think?





































i'll try to get some pics tonight when it's dark


----------



## selluminis

That is sweet looking. I really want a raystorm. Someone sell me theirs for cheap.


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> That is sweet looking. I really want a raystorm. Someone sell me theirs for cheap.


Yea, it looks and performs very cool! I just bought one for my Ivy Bridge build when it comes out next week.

@Kaneda13: Your build looks great. Very nice and clean







. Hows the performance? You happy with the XSPC Kit?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark*
> 
> Yea, it looks and performs very cool! I just bought one for my Ivy Bridge build when it comes out next week.
> @Kaneda13: Your build looks great. Very nice and clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Hows the performance? You happy with the XSPC Kit?


very happy with the performance, here's some screen shots:

boot up cold, waited 1 minute, and ran 3DMark06:









here it is at CPU idle, and runnings CUDA at 100%:


----------



## SandShark

Wow, Fan0 is SUPER FAST!!!


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> very happy with the performance, here's some screen shots:
> boot up cold, waited 1 minute, and ran 3DMark06:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here it is at CPU idle, and runnings CUDA at 100%:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


What temps do you get on load for gaming?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> What temps do you get on load for gaming?


i'm playing SWTOR right now, and here's a temp reading:









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark*
> 
> Wow, Fan0 is SUPER FAST!!!


once it breaks the sound barrier, it's completely silent for a few minutes, then when the boom hits it keeps blowing out my side window.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> i'm playing SWTOR right now, and here's a temp reading:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> once it breaks the sound barrier, it's completely silent for a few minutes, then when the boom hits it keeps blowing out my side window.


I'm still researching what the cheapest and most effective way is to cool a cpu and a gpu so do you mind if I ask more questions? TOO LATE
Here you we: What rad is that rx240, right? Do you think you could run a furmark test on the gpu?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> I'm still researching what the cheapest and most effective way is to cool a cpu and a gpu so do you mind if I ask more questions? TOO LATE
> Here you we: What rad is that rx240, right? Do you think you could run a furmark test on the gpu?


No, it's an RS240, with 38mm fans in a push configuration, and here's a snip of my temps (machine was idle idle, ran 3DMark11, then let it cool down again)


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> No, it's an RS240, with 38mm fans in a push configuration, and here's a snip of my temps (machine was idle idle, ran 3DMark11, then let it cool down again)


rs240 for just a cpu and a gpu loop and you're getting those temps? I was told that wouldn't be enough. Seems I might be able to cheapen some things a bit...


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> rs240 for just a cpu and a gpu loop and you're getting those temps? I was told that wouldn't be enough. Seems I might be able to cheapen some things a bit...


I'm using a Thermochill PA 120.3 which is similar to the RX360 for my CPU and 2 GPUs and my temps are not too bad. I'll play some BF3 real quick and post a screenshot.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I'm using a Thermochill PA 120.3 which is similar to the RX360 for my CPU and 2 GPUs and my temps are not too bad. I'll play some BF3 real quick and post a screenshot.


Can't seem to find a price for that online, how much does it cost?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Can't seem to find a price for that online, how much does it cost?


It came with my case, but it's slightly more expensive than the RX360 as it's "slightly" better. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thpa3xra.html

and an OCN member is selling it + a few extras for $70 shipped: http://www.overclock.net/t/1243176/fs-water-cooling-sell-off-thermochill-pa-120-3-250-ek-res-mcp655-pump-and-more

I would get the RX360 from SVC if you're planning on getting that. http://www.svc.com/rx360.html

Here is the screenshot of BF3 temps (Mouse3 click to see a bigger version):


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It came with my case, but it's slightly more expensive than the RX360 as it's "slightly" better. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thpa3xra.html
> and an OCN member is selling it + a few extras for $70 shipped: http://www.overclock.net/t/1243176/fs-water-cooling-sell-off-thermochill-pa-120-3-250-ek-res-mcp655-pump-and-more
> I would get the RX360 from SVC if you're planning on getting that. http://www.svc.com/rx360.html
> Here is the screenshot of BF3 temps (Mouse3 click to see a bigger version):


Didn't know the rad was that thick(WC noob).
Nice temps, and I remember reading your post. One hell of a deal for that case ;P
TBH, I'm only concerned about GPU temps. If were to water cool, I doubt I would even overclock my CPU despite it being included in the loop.
TRIPLE EDIT:
Off topic: You have had that avatar for a while and now I realize what it is since I just finished Steins Gate(started it last week).


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Didn't know the rad was that thick(WC noob).
> Nice temps, and I remember reading your post. One hell of a deal for that case ;P
> TBH, I'm only concerned about GPU temps. If were to water cool, I doubt I would even overclock my CPU despite it being included in the loop.


GPU temps would be the only reason I would watercool. I went from having load temps of 60-70C down to around 40C. Since I'm only running a 360mm rad, these temps would only get better with another rad (even if it is just a 120mm or 240mm rad).


----------



## vite0150

What size you guys recommend for hoses? I will change the barbs for compression fittings, so this is the chance to change this weird size of the xspc kits...
So what's the most common size?


----------



## macarule

Weird size?
i thought 1/2" Barbs were the most common?


----------



## vite0150

The tubing size... 7/16x5/8 is a weird size... Maybe 3/8? But it looks thin... So i don't know which to buy


----------



## japanesegorilla

1/2ID / 3/4 OD and 7/16ID/5/8OD are probably the most common. There is next to no performance difference between the two. A lot of people like to use 7/16 on 1/2 barbs because it provides a very snug fit. I used 1/2 3/4 just because there was no price difference and I was ordering compression fittings anyway, so the snugness of the tubing over the fitting didn't matter to me.


----------



## GAMERIG

MUST HAVE 1/2ID - 3/4 OD for WC everything !


----------



## Demented

Hey guys, I got a question about loop order. I'm new to water cooling , so be gentle.









Here is a pic of my layout:



The white represents the dual bay res pump. Which port is the outlet, and which is inlet? What's the best loop order, and remember, I have two 6950s that are just air cooled in the case as well.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a question about loop order. I'm new to water cooling , so be gentle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic of my layout:
> 
> The white represents the dual bay res pump. Which port is the outlet, and which is inlet? What's the best loop order, and remember, I have two 6950s that are just air cooled in the case as well.


Are you running the XSPC kit with the the CPU block?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Are you running the XSPC kit with the the CPU block?


Yes. Perhaps I should have been clearer. This is for my Project SwitchWAVE build, in my sig under My Threads. Plus, I posed in this thread, so maybe I assumed wrong...


----------



## zerocraft

I did my first water cooling build last weekend with an rs360, pretty happy with the results (running my phenom x4 at 4.2ghz and under 53C at load, the chip doesnt OC much further regardless of volt







)

Anyway my question is, I completely overlooked the fact that you're supposed to flush out the radiator before its put to use, will it be OK for me to keep using it for 2-3 weeks, or is that dangerous for the rad / pump / block? I'm upgrading to ivy bridge soon and will be redoing the loop when I get the new parts. Should I just flush the entire loop then (including the CPU block ?)


----------



## pvt.joker

the only problem you're likely to have in 2-3 weeks is clouded tubing. there shouldn't be anything that would cause any detrimental harm to your components otherwise.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> the only problem you're likely to have in 2-3 weeks is clouded tubing. there shouldn't be anything that would cause any detrimental harm to your components otherwise.


I would agree with this. You should be fine. Just make sure you do clean it out before too long.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a question about loop order. I'm new to water cooling , so be gentle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic of my layout:
> 
> The white represents the dual bay res pump. Which port is the outlet, and which is inlet? What's the best loop order, and remember, I have two 6950s that are just air cooled in the case as well.


The inlet is the port closest to the motherboard and the outlet is the silver or chrome port that is connected to the pump. I think the cleanest look would be pump out>CPU in>CPU out>rad closest to side panel> rad mobo side> res in.

There isn't much variance as you only have 3parts to mix and match. The only other way is pump>rad>CPU>res.


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a question about loop order. I'm new to water cooling , so be gentle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic of my layout:
> snip
> The white represents the dual bay res pump. Which port is the outlet, and which is inlet? What's the best loop order, and remember, I have two 6950s that are just air cooled in the case as well.


What I would do is to just put everything in and then connect it all in the cleanest/easiest way. The loop order doesn't matter, as the fast flow rate makes the temperatures in the loop become more even than not (obviously ever so slightly warmer coming from block outlets). I worried about the same things when I started water cooling, but now when I re-do my loop, I just wing it and make it as neat as possible, and the temps are EXACTLY the same as they were before haha. Enjoy the experience!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The inlet is the port closest to the motherboard and the outlet is the silver or chrome port that is connected to the pump. I think the cleanest look would be pump out>CPU in>CPU out>rad closest to side panel> rad mobo side> res in.
> There isn't much variance as you only have 3parts to mix and match. The only other way is pump>rad>CPU>res.


I would suggest pump>rad>cpu>res in. That way the water is a cooler since the pump will probably heat it up a little.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The inlet is the port closest to the motherboard and the outlet is the silver or chrome port that is connected to the pump. I think the cleanest look would be pump out>CPU in>CPU out>rad closest to side panel> rad mobo side> res in.
> There isn't much variance as you only have 3parts to mix and match. The only other way is pump>rad>CPU>res.
> 
> 
> 
> I would suggest pump>rad>cpu>res in. That way the water is a cooler since the pump will probably heat it up a little.
Click to expand...

+1...agree with this. sorry i couldnt get respond sooner


----------



## Demented

Thanks guys!


----------



## Kokin

It shouldn't matter as the water temperature equalizes fairly quickly (within minutes), but it will be a triangle regardless of how you orient the tubing.

With my pump and rad in the bottom of my case, my res on my front bay, and my 2 gpus and cpu, my loop order is:

*res>rad>pump>cpu>gpu1>gpu2>res*

It isn't the most ideal loop order, but it's the shortest length of tubing and cleanest with just straight barbs. I will probably change the order a bit and maybe the position of things if I ever get 45 degree fittings and a 240mm rad.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It shouldn't matter as the water temperature equalizes fairly quickly (within minutes), but it will be a triangle regardless of how you orient the tubing.
> With my pump and rad in the bottom of my case, my res on my front bay, and my 2 gpus and cpu, my loop order is:
> *res>rad>pump>cpu>gpu1>gpu2>res*
> It isn't the most ideal loop order, but it's the shortest length of tubing and cleanest with just straight barbs. I will probably change the order a bit and maybe the position of things if I ever get 45 degree fittings and a 240mm rad.


That makes sense too.


----------



## Dungeoncrawler

I just installed the rx360 for my cpu and sli 680's. My temps on the gpu's are fine. I've yet to see them break 50c under load. However, I've noticed my cpu sometimes runs in the low to mid 60's. I'm running an i7 2600k @ 4.6GHz (3.8GHz stock). No worries about the cpu block protector, I'm confident this was removed. Anyhoo, should I be concerned about these temperatures with the watercooled block? Not every game I run produces these temps. I noticed specifically after a session of BF3. Thanks.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dungeoncrawler*
> 
> I just installed the rx360 for my cpu and sli 680's. My temps on the gpu's are fine. I've yet to see them break 50c under load. However, I've noticed my cpu sometimes runs in the low to mid 60's. I'm running an i7 2600k @ 4.6GHz (3.8GHz stock). No worries about the cpu block protector, I'm confident this was removed. Anyhoo, should I be concerned about these temperatures with the watercooled block? Not every game I run produces these temps. I noticed specifically after a session of BF3. Thanks.


Not really worried in the sense that your computer may melt...It definitely would not hurt to get another rad to help your system out though. Just try an calculate the total TDP of your setup and then compare that to how much the RX360 can actually dissipate..I would say you might be running out of headroom. When i get a chance at work today, I may be able to do some quick math and help you out...


----------



## Dungeoncrawler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Not really worried in the sense that your computer may melt...It definitely would not hurt to get another rad to help your system out though. Just try an calculate the total TDP of your setup and then compare that to how much the RX360 can actually dissipate..I would say you might be running out of headroom. When i get a chance at work today, I may be able to do some quick math and help you out...


Thanks mate - Definitely a learning experience for me. I spoke directly with one of the reps at frozencpu who assured me the setup would handle the cpu and gpu's. Guess technically it does, although I expected much lower temps with the cpu. My loop ->rez-->gpu's-->rad-->cpu-->rez. I was forced to mount the rad at the top of my case (inside). Below I'll include a schematic of my airflow setup. In your opinion, would it be more practical to remove the cpu from the loop and throw say a corsair h100 in the mix for the cpu? My case if pretty cramped, but I had an h70 mounted on the back (inside) and could probably get the h100 in there; any ideas? Thanks for the help.


----------



## Murlocke

Anyone have issues with XSPC warranty? That black plastic cheapo screw in my res has stripped. It will be practically unusable the next time I redo my loop. I emailed them twice, and 2 weeks inbetween, and they never email me back. Do they really expect me to buy a whole new res instead of sending me a new 2 cent part?

Anyway.. here's mine:









I couldn't get my RX360's barbs towards the front of the case like I originally planned it. It's just to thick without kinking the tubes, so I had to turn it around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dungeoncrawler*
> 
> Thanks mate - Definitely a learning experience for me. I spoke directly with one of the reps at frozencpu who assured me the setup would handle the cpu and gpu's. Guess technically it does, although I expected much lower temps with the cpu. My loop ->rez-->gpu's-->rad-->cpu-->rez. I was forced to mount the rad at the top of my case (inside). Below I'll include a schematic of my airflow setup. In your opinion, would it be more practical to remove the cpu from the loop and throw say a corsair h100 in the mix for the cpu? My case if pretty cramped, but I had an h70 mounted on the back (inside) and could probably get the h100 in there; any ideas? Thanks for the help.


I thought you wanted to ideally go: res/pump > rad > cpu > gpus > res/pump because your CPU is much cooler than your GPU. The water will be much warmer by the time it hits the CPU in your setup. With the setup I said, your water sits in your res for awhile and cools down before getting sent to the radiator, which further cools it down. I might be wrong though.. been awhile since I put a GPU on my loop. I have a hard time believing the H100 would get better temps even in a seperate loop because it's about 15C worse than a RX360 kit.

My radiator is also mounted on the top of my case (seen above) with the fans in a pull config, blowing in to the case. Some might argue that it's "blowing hot air all over everything" but it's not, and pulling air from outside the case into the radiator results in the best water temps.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dungeoncrawler*
> 
> Thanks mate - Definitely a learning experience for me. I spoke directly with one of the reps at frozencpu who assured me the setup would handle the cpu and gpu's. Guess technically it does, although I expected much lower temps with the cpu. My loop ->rez-->gpu's-->rad-->cpu-->rez. I was forced to mount the rad at the top of my case (inside). Below I'll include a schematic of my airflow setup. In your opinion, would it be more practical to remove the cpu from the loop and throw say a corsair h100 in the mix for the cpu? My case if pretty cramped, but I had an h70 mounted on the back (inside) and could probably get the h100 in there; any ideas? Thanks for the help.


well since you have a loop i definitely would NOT spend the money on a h100...a closed loop has a few disadvantages and you already have a loop yourself.. Try and get your loop to an order like res>rad>cpu>gpu>res...

the pump will add a small amount of heat as well...with the aforementioned setup you get cool water to your CPU then your GPUs....Let us know how it goes.


----------



## Dungeoncrawler

Quote:


> I thought you wanted to ideally go: res/pump > rad > cpu > gpu > res/pump because your CPU is much cooler than your GPU. The water will be much warmer by the time it hits the CPU in your setup. I might be wrong though.. been awhile since I put a GPU on my loop.
> 
> My radiator is also mounted on the top of my case (seen above) with the fans in a pull config, blowing in to the case. Some might argue that it's "blowing hot air all over everything" but it's not, and pulling air from outside the case into the radiator results in the best water temps.


Being it was my first time, I relied on people from a favorite website concerning the loop mechanic. My rad is setup the same. Air being pulled into the case, over the rad, and then venting into the case (as per schematic). What temps you getting under load on the cpu loop?

edit - I was told it takes the thermal compound a little while to set. Can I expect some additional thermal reduction as time advances? I used the X application method for the thermal compound on the cpu.


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dungeoncrawler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you wanted to ideally go: res/pump > rad > cpu > gpu > res/pump because your CPU is much cooler than your GPU. The water will be much warmer by the time it hits the CPU in your setup. I might be wrong though.. been awhile since I put a GPU on my loop.
> My radiator is also mounted on the top of my case (seen above) with the fans in a pull config, blowing in to the case. Some might argue that it's "blowing hot air all over everything" but it's not, and pulling air from outside the case into the radiator results in the best water temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Being it was my first time, I relied on people from a favorite website concerning the loop mechanic. My rad is setup the same. Air being pulled into the case, over the rad, and then venting into the case (as per schematic). What temps you getting under load on the cpu loop?
> edit - I was told it takes the thermal compound a little while to set. Can I expect some additional thermal reduction as time advances? I used the X application method for the thermal compound on the cpu.
Click to expand...

Temps on my loops are 33C idle (i don't have downclocking enabled so it's still 1.325v otherwise it would be a lot lower), 70C with intelburntest. 55C or so in high graphic games. i7 920 tend to run quite a bit hotter than sandybridge. I'll be putting my 3770k in here soon enough to see what it can do under water.

I also have a MCP655 pump with XSPC's MCP655 res, and a raystorm block. I'm not using the kit's fans either. I've upgraded my kit so much that the only original thing is my radiator. I'm assuming you aren't using the crappy XSPC pump with 2 GPUs, it's not even recommend for a single CPU due to the failure rate. It's flow rate is terrible, even compared to a MCP655 on 4/5 speed.

If you used thermal compound that most here would recommend, like MX-3 or MX-4, then there is no "set in time".


----------



## Dungeoncrawler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murlocke*
> 
> Temps on my loops are 33C idle (i don't have downclocking enabled so it's still 1.325v otherwise it would be a lot lower), 70C with intelburntest. 55C or so in high graphic games. i7 920 tend to run quite a bit hotter than sandybridge. I'll be putting my 3770k in here soon enough to see what it can do under water.
> I also have a MCP655 pump with XSPC's MCP655 res, and a raystorm block. I'm not using the kit's fans either. I've upgraded my kit so much that the only original thing is my radiator. I'm assuming you aren't using the crappy XSPC pump with 2 GPUs, it's not even recommend for a single CPU due to the failure rate. It's flow rate is terrible, even compared to a MCP655 on 4/5 speed.
> If you used thermal compound that most here would recommend, like MX-3 or MX-4, then there is no "set in time".


The extreme version of the kit I purchased had an upgraded pump (Upgrade to the D5 (Alphacool VPP Single). I'd certainly be satisfied with your 55c in high graphics games







. Think I'll try the easy route and re-seat that cpu block.


----------



## sticks435

All,

I really want to purchase one of the Extreme Raystorm kits, but had a couple of questions for those of you who have.

1. How is the default tubing? I believe it is called High-Flex. I'm weary of it due to all the reports of the tubing from the Rasa kits that was extremely cheap and crappy according to people on here. They always recommended throwing it out and getting Primochill. Was wondering if XSPC was using something new for these kits or had improved the tubing in general.

2. Do they come with silver or black fan grills? It seems the kits on Dazmode come with black grills and white Thermochill Flex tubing, so they are different from the kits in the states.


----------



## Dungeoncrawler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> All,
> I really want to purchase one of the Extreme Raystorm kits, but had a couple of questions for those of you who have.
> 1. How is the default tubing? I believe it is called High-Flex. I'm weary of it due to all the reports of the tubing from the Rasa kits that was extremely cheap and crappy according to people on here. They always recommended throwing it out and getting Primochill. Was wondering if XSPC was using something new for these kits or had improved the tubing in general.
> 2. Do they come with silver or black fan grills? It seems the kits on Dazmode come with black grills and white Thermochill Flex tubing, so they are different from the kits in the states.


My grills are silver. Tubing seems standard to me. It fit securely onto the fittings with no leaks. Don't know of any other criteria to judge it by. Granted this was my first kit.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> All,
> I really want to purchase one of the Extreme Raystorm kits, but had a couple of questions for those of you who have.
> 1. How is the default tubing? I believe it is called High-Flex. I'm weary of it due to all the reports of the tubing from the Rasa kits that was extremely cheap and crappy according to people on here. They always recommended throwing it out and getting Primochill. Was wondering if XSPC was using something new for these kits or had improved the tubing in general.
> 2. Do they come with silver or black fan grills? It seems the kits on Dazmode come with black grills and white Thermochill Flex tubing, so they are different from the kits in the states.


1. definitely get some primochill..that clear stuff may cloud and become yellowish after awhile.

2. I bought mine from performance PCs. I dont think mine came with any..I would have to dig out the box...maybe they did..


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> 1. definitely get some primochill..that clear stuff may cloud and become yellowish after awhile:


What about the UV blue? It looks like you can choose colors with these kits.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> What about the UV blue? It looks like you can choose colors with these kits.


Look at the pictures on my sig. That is the UV blue. That photo was taken with my phone though, so not the best quality. The UV blue looks really sweet though.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> What about the UV blue? It looks like you can choose colors with these kits.


I can post a picture of my setup when I get home from work. I have the UV blue tubing that you can upgrade to with the rasa RX240 kit.


----------



## golfergolfer

So i am sure this has been asked before but how do you find the noise on the pump? on performance pcs it says that it is max 42dB and imo that is really quite loud... What do you guys have to say?


----------



## Zaphodb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> So i am sure this has been asked before but how do you find the noise on the pump? on performance pcs it says that it is max 42dB and imo that is really quite loud... What do you guys have to say?


I've got a rs360 CPU loop, and I've never heard my pump except when I was filling the res and it was sucking air. In fact, I accidentally unplugged it, and it took me quite some time to figure out why my computer was shutting down after a few seconds. I have to feel the lines for vibration to tell the thing's on.


----------



## konoii

Cleaned up the inside of my case and moved my radiator from the top down to the bottom. Dropped my cpu temps by an average of 5c







Replaced the XSPC tubing with Primochill. So far, it seems Primochill tubing is a lot stronger compared to XSPC tubing.

Really wish my camera didn't make some parts of the photo blurry...


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> So i am sure this has been asked before but how do you find the noise on the pump? on performance pcs it says that it is max 42dB and imo that is really quite loud... What do you guys have to say?


The pump is loud if it is not covered in water. Which to run it with out burning it up you will need to fill the res and submerge it in water. The water insultaes the sound. I do not even hear my pump.


----------



## DBEAU

Here's what the UV blue tubing upgrade looks like that comes with the rasa kit...


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Here's what the UV blue tubing upgrade looks like that comes with the rasa kit...


That does look pretty sweet. I wonder if it would plasticize as bad as the clear?


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Here's what the UV blue tubing upgrade looks like that comes with the rasa kit...
> [/IMG


Can you tell us the exact name of this tubing pls?


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> That does look pretty sweet. I wonder if it would plasticize as bad as the clear?


Been running mine for over a month with mo issues.....I think the clouding/plasticizing was being contributed to the flux from new rads. As long as you wash your out with hot water and/or vinegar yours should be more than fine.


----------



## macarule

i washed my rad out 4 times and my tubes still clouded


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> Can you tell us the exact name of this tubing pls?


Honestly I don't know. All I can tell you is when you order a XSPC Rasa kit from Frozencpu.com they give you an option to upgrade to -- (XSPC High Flex 7/16 x 5/8 - UV Blue).

They also sent me the regular clear tubing that normally comes with the kit and it is far worse in comparison. The stock tubing seemed very stiff and cheap. I'm glad I spent the extra money on the Blue tubing.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> i washed my rad out 4 times and my tubes still clouded


I washed mine with REALLY REALLY hot, pretty much boiling, *filtered* water. Another solution is to nuke some vinegar and do the same. BUT BE CAREFUL! If its pure vinegar you cannot tell when it is boiling because there are no imperfections in the solution. Ive seen many people do this and clean their rad pretty well.


----------



## IXcrispyXI

just wondering the back plate for my kit didnt have a sticky part that sticks to the mobo (like my old raystorm i had) just wondering if anyone else came across this? just made it hard to install


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IXcrispyXI*
> 
> just wondering the back plate for my kit didnt have a sticky part that sticks to the mobo (like my old raystorm i had) just wondering if anyone else came across this? just made it hard to install


Just use a piece of scotch tape to hold the retention plate on. That's all I did with my H80, H100, and CoolIt Eco.


----------



## rck1984

Hi guys,

I'm totally new at watercooling, been thinking about Rasa RS240 kit to cool my i5 2500k.
Later, id like to add my GPU to the loop as well, also adding an additional 120 rad to make sure my loop can handle the heat.

I'm wondering about a couple things:

- Would a 240 + 120 rad be sufficiant enough to cool my oc'd i5 2500k and 7950?
- I'm going black/white theme on my Corsair 600T SE and im considering black compression fittings and white tubing. Now i'm wondering what tubing to pick (size) and the total lenght? (for just CPU, GPU will come later) My local hardware store has the following sizes:

1/2 tubing (13MM ID)
3/8 tubing (10MM ID)
3/8 tubing (5/8 OD)
5/16 tubing (8MM ID)
1/4 tubing (6MM ID)

- Which size should i get for a Rasa RS240 kit? same counts for the fittings.
- Also, would a fancontroller be needed? or can i just put all my gentle typhoons on max and let it be that way?

Thank you


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I'm totally new at watercooling, been thinking about Rasa RS240 kit to cool my i5 2500k.
> Later, id like to add my GPU to the loop as well, also adding an additional 120 rad to make sure my loop can handle the heat.
> I'm wondering about a couple things:
> - Would a 240 + 120 rad be sufficiant enough to cool my oc'd i5 2500k and 7950?
> - I'm going black/white theme on my Corsair 600T SE and im considering black compression fittings and white tubing. Now i'm wondering what tubing to pick (size) and the total lenght? (for just CPU, GPU will come later) My local hardware store has the following sizes:
> 1/2 tubing (13MM ID)
> 3/8 tubing (10MM ID)
> 3/8 tubing (5/8 OD)
> 5/16 tubing (8MM ID)
> 1/4 tubing (6MM ID)
> - Which size should i get for a Rasa RS240 kit? same counts for the fittings.
> - Also, would a fancontroller be needed? or can i just put all my gentle typhoons on max and let it be that way?
> Thank you


First off, welcome to our thread!

1. Yes, that much rad space should be fine for CPU+1 GPU.
2. In terms of performance, there are no real gains/losses in terms of tubing size. It just depends on how you want your rig to look. I would order some Primochill LRT with your kit. It is designed specifically for PC cooling and really is the best stuff to buy imo. A good size to get is 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD...there are a lot of options for fittings in this size. White tubing with Black compression fittings will look vey clean and classy.
3. Just make sure what ever size fitting you get matches the tubing size. (most websites have charts)
4. It depends on how concerned you are with noise. If you dont care, then let em rip...if not, you can get one to control the noise when not gaming/browsing etc...

Hope this helps.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> First off, welcome to our thread!
> 1. Yes, that much rad space should be fine for CPU+1 GPU.
> 2. In terms of performance, there are no real gains/losses in terms of tubing size. It just depends on how you want your rig to look. I would order some Primochill LRT with your kit. It is designed specifically for PC cooling and really is the best stuff to buy imo. A good size to get is 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD...there are a lot of options for fittings in this size. White tubing with Black compression fittings will look vey clean and classy.
> 3. Just make sure what ever size fitting you get matches the tubing size. (most websites have charts)
> 4. It depends on how concerned you are with noise. If you dont care, then let em rip...if not, you can get one to control the noise when not gaming/browsing etc...
> Hope this helps.


That sure does help








Ill take a look at the Primochill tubing.

Corcerning noise... I had a HAF922 case before, eventhough that thing had awesome caseflow... It was pretty noisy! This Corsair case is whisper silent compared to my old HAF.
Ill check around for some fancontroller with not too much bling bling and decide what to do.

Cheers for this info, the tubing part was a little confusing but this makes things clear.


----------



## zer0sum

So, I really like the look of the 240 kit but can't fit that size rad into my little TJ08.
The kit seems really good value as when you add the parts in separately it costs a lot more

I was thinking of buying the kit and then also getting a Magicool 180mm and selling the 240mm that is included.
Has anyone tried that? Or does anyone know if that would work or if extra parts would be needed?

Then later on I also want to add a 120 rad and a GPU to the loop. I am guessing more fittings and tube etc. would be needed.

Any advice appreciated


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zer0sum*
> 
> So, I really like the look of the 240 kit but can't fit that size rad into my little TJ08. The kit seems really good value as when you add the parts in separately it costs a lot more
> I was thinking of buying the kit and then also getting a MAgicool 180mm and selling the 240mm that is included.
> Has anyone tried that? Or does anyone know if that would work or if extra parts would be needed?
> Then later on I also want to add a 120 rad and a GPU to the loop. I am guessing more fittings and tube etc. would be needed.
> Any advice appreciated


You can change and use whatever rad you want with the kit (they are a great deal to get started with.)
When you add the gpu block and additional rad, all you'll need is more tubing and fittings and you'd be good to go.


----------



## rck1984

What total length of tubing do i need for a CPU only loop in a Corsair 600T? Would 2 meter be enough?


----------



## IXcrispyXI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> What total length of tubing do i need for a CPU only loop in a Corsair 600T? Would 2 meter be enough?


it will be plenty, i didnt even use all of it up in my 650D and they are about the same size case


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IXcrispyXI*
> 
> it will be plenty, i didnt even use all of it up in my 650D and they are about the same size case


All right, thanks


----------



## slice259

Looking at getting an XSPC Raystorm Kit ( EX240 or RX240 ). My question is, which rad setup would perform better using Scythe Ultra kaze 3000's cooling an i5 3570k. My understanding is the EX240 has higher fin density over the RX240. I am going to be running High (CFM-Static Pressure) fans so would the EX240 out-perform the RX in this situation ? Thanks

Also rad size does not matter as this rad is being mounted on the rear of a Antec 1200.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slice259*
> 
> Looking at getting an XSPC Raystorm Kit ( EX240 or RX240 ). My question is, which rad setup would perform better using Scythe Ultra kaze 3000's cooling an i5 3570k. My understanding is the EX240 has higher fin density over the RX240. I am going to be running High (CFM-Static Pressure) fans so would the EX240 out-perform the RX in this situation ? Thanks
> Also rad size does not matter as this rad is being mounted on the rear of a Antec 1200.


Get an ex360 then. The ex series is made to perform really well with high speed fans. I am not sure that the ex 240 would out perform the RX 240 using the same fans. The main difference is the RX series let you use slower/quieter fans to get really good performance.


----------



## Kokin

The EX rads can outperform the RX rads when running at about 1800RPM or higher, so you should be good.









Even at lower speeds, the EX rad is only about 1-2C higher than the RX.


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The EX rads can outperform the RX rads when running at about 1800RPM or higher, so you should be good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even at lower speeds, the EX rad is only about 1-2C higher than the RX.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Get an ex360 then. The ex series is made to perform really well with high speed fans. I am not sure that the ex 240 would out perform the RX 240 using the same fans. The main difference is the RX series let you use slower/quieter fans to get really good performance.


Thank you both for your opinion's









+ Rep


----------



## Deeya

I have an RS240 kit, I was just wondering if the pump is powerful enough for a CPU and GPU loop and if I need to add a second radiator or not. If so will a rear mounted 120mm work or would I have to mod my Phantom to have an extra 240mm at the bottom of my case?

Actually never mind, just look at the page prior and found an answer, thanks Fultonloyn even through you didn't answer my question. it was literally the the same as the one I was asking.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> Actually never mind, just look at the page prior and found an answer, thanks Fultonloyn even through you didn't answer my question. it was literally the the same as the one I was asking.


Sure! Glad I could help you. As a loose rule...you should add 120mm of rad space for each block on your loop.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Question to rasa 750 owners. Is it safe to drop kill coil in res or can it be sucked in the pump? Would appreciate the help. Sorry if this is posted in wrong place.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> Sure! Glad I could help you. As a loose rule...you should add 120mm of rad space for each block on your loop.


I would say 120mm rad space per block + an addition 120mm if you overclock/overvolt. A double-thick 360mm rad on my CPU + 2 GPUs is barely cutting it, at least for my CPU.


----------



## Deeya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Question to rasa 750 owners. Is it safe to drop kill coil in res or can it be sucked in the pump? Would appreciate the help. Sorry if this is posted in wrong place.


You can reshape the kill coil. I just expanded mine a bit more and dropped it right in. I just chills on the right side of the res.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Thank you for the help, and I like yr rig.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> I have an RS240 kit, I was just wondering if the pump is powerful enough for a CPU and GPU loop and if I need to add a second radiator or not. If so will a rear mounted 120mm work or would I have to mod my Phantom to have an extra 240mm at the bottom of my case?
> Actually never mind, just look at the page prior and found an answer, thanks Fultonloyn even through you didn't answer my question. it was literally the the same as the one I was asking.


Check my build log in my sig. I am running with cpu and 2 x gpu.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> You can reshape the kill coil. I just expanded mine a bit more and dropped it right in. I just chills on the right side of the res.


I have the kill coil sitting in my res. no problems.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I have the kill coil sitting in my res. no problems.


I do too, no problems here either.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I would say 120mm rad space per block + an addition 120mm if you overclock/overvolt. A double-thick 360mm rad on my CPU + 2 GPUs is barely cutting it, at least for my CPU.


I agree. But for all general purposes and measurement, I think that is a good guideline. I think anyone that has 2 GPUs should at least have 480 of rad space. Just gives you some good headroom.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I made my own thread but this thread might get more hits those of you running the rasa cpu block and a 2600k what sorta temps do you see at say [email protected] and [email protected] im seeing 65-75c and that seems how im not running a true rasa kit tho a mcp655-b with a rx240 and rx360 with 2 gpus in the loop.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> I agree. But for all general purposes and measurement, I think that is a good guideline. I think anyone that has 2 GPUs should at least have 480 of rad space. Just gives you some good headroom.


I suggest at least a 360 and a 240 if you are oc'ing the gpus and cpu. Plus a good pump. I think my little 750 xspc pump that came in my rasa kit is about maxed out.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Thanks good to hear from several people. I appreciate the help.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I suggest at least a 360 and a 240 if you are oc'ing the gpus and cpu. Plus a good pump. I think my little 750 xspc pump that came in my rasa kit is about maxed out.


a rx240 and rx360 can cool a cpu 5970 and 5870.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*
> 
> I made my own thread but this thread might get more hits those of you running the rasa cpu block and a 2600k what sorta temps do you see at say [email protected] and [email protected] im seeing 65-75c and that seems how im not running a true rasa kit tho a mcp655-b with a rx240 and rx360 with 2 gpus in the loop.


I'm getting about 68-80C with Prime95 blend when I set my rig at [email protected]

This is with the Rasa CPU block and the MCP655 set at 3 out of 5 (slightly slower than your mcp655-b, which is 4). I also use 2x Rasa universal GPU blocks and my rad is similar to the RX360 which has 3x 2150RPM GTs installed as push.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I'm getting about 68-80C with Prime95 blend when I set my rig at [email protected]
> This is with the Rasa CPU block and the MCP655 set at 3 out of 5 (slightly slower than your mcp655-b, which is 4). I also use 2x Rasa universal GPU blocks and my rad is similar to the RX360 which has 3x 2150RPM GTs installed as push.


Well im running 5000 with 1.456-1.48 looks like and my temps are 69-81c priming for 20mins but thats with ht on i do have a 5970 full cover block and a 5870 full cover block the cards are idle tho probly only sending 50-100watts of heat and im running push pull on my rx360 and rx240.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*
> 
> a rx240 and rx360 can cool a cpu 5970 and 5870.


right.


----------



## ViperSB1

I have been wondering about this. I have a RS360 cooling my I7 [email protected] currently and doing a great job, maxing at about 41c after an hour of prime. I plan on adding 3 gtx 285's to the loop and have not been able to figure out what kind of raddage I need to add. I'm think I'm going to add a Swiftech MCR220-XP. Hopefully that will be enough.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I have been wondering about this. I have a RS360 cooling my I7 [email protected] currently and doing a great job, maxing at about 41c after an hour of prime. I plan on adding 3 gtx 285's to the loop and have not been able to figure out what kind of raddage I need to add. I'm think I'm going to add a Swiftech MCR220-XP. Hopefully that will be enough.


That should be fine. I would suggest an XSPC EX240 or equivalent. With out looking it up, I am not familiar with the MCR220-XP. Looking at the model, it probably takes 2 fans? Do you already own the GTX 285s or will you be purchasing them?


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> That should be fine. I would suggest an XSPC EX240 or equivalent. With out looking it up, I am not familiar with the MCR220-XP. Looking at the model, it probably takes 2 fans? Do you already own the GTX 285s or will you be purchasing them?


Yeah, the MCR220-XP is a 240mm slim stlye rad with a high fin density. I was actually planning on the EX240 but I think the MCR220-XP actually performs better from the research I have been doing. I already own the 285's but I finally found waterblocks for them, they are the revision 2 so it was not easy.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Yeah, the MCR220-XP is a 240mm slim stlye rad with a high fin density. I was actually planning on the EX240 but I think the MCR220-XP actually performs better from the research I have been doing. I already own the 285's but I finally found waterblocks for them, they are the revision 2 so it was not easy.


Huh. Should handle them. Not sure how hot 3 of the 285 will be. I would almost suggest get another 360 if you have the room. I have a cpu with 2 560ti 448 cores with my rs240 and ex360 and they stay around 30 idle and 60 maxed out. That is with a somewhat weak pump too though.


----------



## crazedsilence

Hey guys, just wanted to drop in and ask a few questions.
I'm completely new to the wide world of water cooling, and all the information at my fingertips is a little daunting. I'm considering putting my next build under water (starting with the cpu, adding gpu's later), but being completely new to this, I want something a little user friendly, which the Rasa 750 RS240 kit appears to be.
So, first things first: How newbie friendly is this kit? I've read that it doesn't come with directions, but that part doesn't bother me, as there's a host of information in this forum alone that could instruct me on how to assemble it.
Second: How unheard is it to have a water cooling line burst open and ruin your computer's components? This is my biggest fear, especially considering this build is going to have a lot of expensive components (R4E, 3930k, 2x GTX 680's), and it's currently what's holding me back from buying a kit like this.
I've looked at Corsair's H series of coolers, but I've decided that if I'm going to do water, I'm going to do it right.
So, how is this kit?!









Edit: Also, how is the expandability of this kit (mainly the pump)? Would it be able to handle the cpu+gpu+gpu, as well as 2 rads? If I end up having to upgrade the pump/res down the line it won't bother me too much, just curious is all


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazedsilence*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to drop in and ask a few questions.
> I'm completely new to the wide world of water cooling, and all the information at my fingertips is a little daunting. I'm considering putting my next build under water (starting with the cpu, adding gpu's later), but being completely new to this, I want something a little user friendly, which the Rasa 750 RS240 kit appears to be.
> So, first things first: How newbie friendly is this kit? I've read that it doesn't come with directions, but that part doesn't bother me, as there's a host of information in this forum alone that could instruct me on how to assemble it.
> Second: How unheard is it to have a water cooling line burst open and ruin your computer's components? This is my biggest fear, especially considering this build is going to have a lot of expensive components (R4E, 3930k, 2x GTX 680's), and it's currently what's holding me back from buying a kit like this.
> I've looked at Corsair's H series of coolers, but I've decided that if I'm going to do water, I'm going to do it right.
> So, how is this kit?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also, how is the expandability of this kit (mainly the pump)? Would it be able to handle the cpu+gpu+gpu, as well as 2 rads? If I end up having to upgrade the pump/res down the line it won't bother me too much, just curious is all


It's a great starter kit, with plenty of room for expansions. I've been water cooling for years (my first was an AMD Athlon with a homemade water block, electrical box for a res and using outdoor found pumps with car heater cores as radiators all back in the late 90's), and i've never seen a hose burst, there isn't nearly enough press for that to happen. The pump in this kit is 750 gph, so it's good a good amount of flow, but you may need to add a second inline pump once you start to add that much stuff, also check to make sure you are getting low restriction blocks. I'm only cooling my CPU (Raystorm) and a single GPU (EK GPU) with a 120mm RS radiator, and i still have plenty of flow, but with an additional radiator and water block, i think you would be pushing the limits of the pump. Hope this helps.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazedsilence*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to drop in and ask a few questions.
> I'm completely new to the wide world of water cooling, and all the information at my fingertips is a little daunting. I'm considering putting my next build under water (starting with the cpu, adding gpu's later), but being completely new to this, I want something a little user friendly, which the Rasa 750 RS240 kit appears to be.
> So, first things first: How newbie friendly is this kit? I've read that it doesn't come with directions, but that part doesn't bother me, as there's a host of information in this forum alone that could instruct me on how to assemble it.
> Second: How unheard is it to have a water cooling line burst open and ruin your computer's components? This is my biggest fear, especially considering this build is going to have a lot of expensive components (R4E, 3930k, 2x GTX 680's), and it's currently what's holding me back from buying a kit like this.
> I've looked at Corsair's H series of coolers, but I've decided that if I'm going to do water, I'm going to do it right.
> So, how is this kit?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also, how is the expandability of this kit (mainly the pump)? Would it be able to handle the cpu+gpu+gpu, as well as 2 rads? If I end up having to upgrade the pump/res down the line it won't bother me too much, just curious is all


That is the exact kit I started with. Paired with the knowledge on this forum I could not go wrong. It literally has everything you need. I still recommend using different tubing, but you don't have to.

As far as expandability of the kit. See my build log in my sig. I have benching and temps in there for everything.

I agree with Kaneda13, with 2 gpu and cpu the pump is a little stressed, but handles it. I might be getting another pump to put in line after a little while.


----------



## crazedsilence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> That is the exact kit I started with. Paired with the knowledge on this forum I could not go wrong. It literally has everything you need. I still recommend using different tubing, but you don't have to.
> As far as expandability of the kit. See my build log in my sig. I have benching and temps in there for everything.
> I agree with Kaneda13, with 2 gpu and cpu the pump is a little stressed, but handles it. I might be getting another pump to put in line after a little while.


Different tubing as in a different thickness? Or just a different brand?


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazedsilence*
> 
> Different tubing as in a different thickness? Or just a different brand?


I'm sure he was referencing the tubing itself, not the size. It comes with 7/16x5/8 which I think is the best balance of performance and looks. I am running 1/2x5/8 and wish I had gone with 7/16x5/8 for the thicker wall. As far as the tubing, I personally dont see any problem with it. Very similar to most tubing I have used. Bend radius is ok and it is not too stiff. I dont know how well it stands up to clouding/staining as I did not use it, but only because I wanted black tubing, not because of the quality.


----------



## crazedsilence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I'm sure he was referencing the tubing itself, not the size. It comes with 7/16x5/8 which I think is the best balance of performance and looks. I am running 1/2x5/8 and wish I had gone with 7/16x5/8 for the thicker wall. As far as the tubing, I personally dont see any problem with it. Very similar to most tubing I have used. Bend radius is ok and it is not too stiff. I dont know how well it stands up to clouding/staining as I did not use it, but only because I wanted black tubing, not because of the quality.


Ah, in that case I was already going to go with blue tubing anyways.
I'm definitely sold on this kit though, once it's installed it's going to look so much better than the NH-D14 was going to look


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazedsilence*
> 
> Different tubing as in a different thickness? Or just a different brand?


Different type. a lot of people use the primo chill pro lrt stuff. That is what I use and am happy with it.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> I'm sure he was referencing the tubing itself, not the size. It comes with 7/16x5/8 which I think is the best balance of performance and looks. I am running 1/2x5/8 and wish I had gone with 7/16x5/8 for the thicker wall. As far as the tubing, I personally dont see any problem with it. Very similar to most tubing I have used. Bend radius is ok and it is not too stiff. I dont know how well it stands up to clouding/staining as I did not use it, but only because I wanted black tubing, not because of the quality.


Quite a few people are saying that it get cloudy. I still have it rolled up the way it came in the kit. Have not used it at all, yet.


----------



## Deeya

Mine got pretty cloudy liquid was as clear as could be though when draining it after six months. I switched to some solid white PrimoChill LRT when I cleaned me loop.


----------



## Kokin

I've seen a lot of users report that it begins to cloud after a few days to a few weeks. To be honest, I like that cloudly look on clear tubing, but not so much on my colored tubing.


----------



## JustLo

I really want the rs240 kit for my phantom 410. Is the radiator too thick to mount on top to still fit the top panel piece on? Is there anything else I should get with the kit other than some primo flex tubing? If my case is viable, I want the fans on the radiator blowing as intake but what fans should I use to exhaust. The rear fan spot or the two front slots.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Lettuceman

Hey guys, how is the pump for the raystorm kit?

I'm going for a silent build, so I am going for the rx360 rad, and I like the raystorm cpu block. Since the kit already has two of the things I want all I need to look at is the rez and pump. So the rez is well a rez so its whatever. I don't want it in sight anyways. Now the real question is the pump.

Silence is key, and I need to be able to push a cpu and possibly 2 gpus in the future. Is the pump good in that regard?(mosty I want quiet lol)

edit: Forget this entire post. I did some research and it seems the MP655 is quite indeed a nice pump.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazedsilence*
> 
> Ah, in that case I was already going to go with blue tubing anyways.
> I'm definitely sold on this kit though, once it's installed it's going to look so much better than the NH-D14 was going to look


If you're referring to the UV blue XSPC tubing that you pay extra for, it is far superior to the clear tubing that comes with the kit. I paid the extra for the UV blue and I'm glad I did.


----------



## Bielijbog

Just ordered an RSX 360 kit as well as the XSPC Raystorm universal gpu block and some black Primochill tubing. Ordered the windowed sidepanel for my HAF 932 case through CM as well for $20.


----------



## Thecityskies

MY RX 120.;D


----------



## macarule

What kinda temps do you pull?


----------



## RJacobs28

Hi all, hope I'm not Hijacking the current conversation.

I'm looking to put my rig (CPU only for now) under water within the next month and I had planned to go with the Corsair H100. Well, until i discovered these XSPC kits for roughly the same price.

I've just shifted my setup into a Corsair Obsidian 650D and am wondering if I should be looking at the RS or RX 240?

If I look at the RS model, add 2M of PrimoChill tubing and a kill coil - it comes to about $5-6 more than an H100.

I'm obviously new to this and am wondering if anyone has any experience with these kits in a 650D. Also, have I overlooked anything?

Cheers


----------



## anubis1127

The RS model is fine, that's what I started with, you just need a little higher speed fans than you would need with the RX. That being said the RX would probably get you slightly better temps, I'm not sure how much better, I've never owned one.


----------



## RJacobs28

Would BitFenix Spectre's be sufficient? Perhaps even Push/Pull if space permits.


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> Just ordered an RSX 360 kit as well as the XSPC Raystorm universal gpu block and some black Primochill tubing. Ordered the windowed sidepanel for my HAF 932 case through CM as well for $20.


I know this isnt the CM thread, but can you link where you got this? Pretty interested in it...may just make my own though...


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> I know this isnt the CM thread, but can you link where you got this? Pretty interested in it...may just make my own though...


Sure, here you go.
Pretty sure its the same one that comes with the HAF 932 Black Edition.


----------



## Way2grouchy

Yea the Rasa 750 rules and so does the full window. I think it makes u enjoy yr computer so much more.


----------



## mandrix

HI guys n gals, got an XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 kit coming today. This will be my first wc besides the all-in-ones from Corsair and Zalman. This will be cpu only for now and in the near future, I don't do much gaming. The kill coil was included free in the kit and I added a liter of fluid.
Got plenty of vinegar/distilled water to flush out the radiator as it seems to be a good idea in case a bunch of crud remains from the manufacturing process.
Going to go back through this thread as time permits this morning and try to catch up on what others have said.
Going to try install in a HAF 922. Anyone got any tips/suggestions/advice/ Gotcha's?

Forgot to add I"ve got a Sunbeam rheobus extreme 6 channel fan controller coming as well. Been wanting a controller for a while.


----------



## Deeya

Quick question again, I'm resetting my loop tomorrow adding a gpu and a second radiator.

I was wondering if the CPU block that comes with the kit is able to be mounted upside down? Just planning the layout ahead of time and since it has labeled in and out ports and it would provide a "cleaner" look if I was able to mount it upside down.


----------



## Slap Dash

Can i Join  & before anyone says, Yes i am aware of the Airflow Fan on the RAM, I corrected this after the Pic

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> Hi all, hope I'm not Hijacking the current conversation.
> I'm looking to put my rig (CPU only for now) under water within the next month and I had planned to go with the Corsair H100. Well, until i discovered these XSPC kits for roughly the same price.
> I've just shifted my setup into a Corsair Obsidian 650D and am wondering if I should be looking at the RS or RX 240?
> If I look at the RS model, add 2M of PrimoChill tubing and a kill coil - it comes to about $5-6 more than an H100.
> I'm obviously new to this and am wondering if anyone has any experience with these kits in a 650D. Also, have I overlooked anything?
> Cheers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> The RS model is fine, that's what I started with, you just need a little higher speed fans than you would need with the RX. That being said the RX would probably get you slightly better temps, I'm not sure how much better, I've never owned one.


The RX won't fit in a 650D using the stock mounting holes. Even if you moved it over a little so the VRM heatsinks weren't in the way, you'd have to take apart your loop if you wanted to change ram or do any kind of anything inside. Your better off going with the EX than RS, same size but better performance.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> Quick question again, I'm resetting my loop tomorrow adding a gpu and a second radiator.
> I was wondering if the CPU block that comes with the kit is able to be mounted upside down? Just planning the layout ahead of time and since it has labeled in and out ports and it would provide a "cleaner" look if I was able to mount it upside down.


Shouldn't be an issue as AMD's setup vs Intel's it's rotated 90 degrees.


----------



## mandrix

The RX240 is a pretty decent looking kit. Don't know what I expected but it's OK. I mounted the fans on the rad and did a dry fit to the inside top of the HAF 922, think it's gonna work out alright. If I make maximum use of the grill area I'll be blocking the ram but that doesn't really matter, or I could offset it and still change ram out.
Just thinking out loud, I guess.


----------



## Way2grouchy

The RX series are very thick but supposed to be very good. You could always mount it on the back seen that others have done this. I did all my research on OC.NET before i bought my components and decided to go with EX series because of the thickness. Couldn't be happier. Rad plus fans dont overlap anything. Still almost an inch between top of MB and bottom of fans. Not a HAF 922 though, HAF X. I got very lucky and everything worked out great. Good luck with yr project.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> The RX series are very thick but supposed to be very good. You could always mount it on the back seen that others have done this. I did all my research on OC.NET before i bought my components and decided to go with EX series because of the thickness. Couldn't be happier. Rad plus fans dont overlap anything. Still almost an inch between top of MB and bottom of fans. Not a HAF 922 though, HAF X. I got very lucky and everything worked out great. Good luck with yr project.


Thank you! I think it will do OK inside the case. The HAF 922 is pretty wide, and that gives me some wiggle room..


----------



## zerocraft

Could someone recommend me the parts I would need to set up a drain valve ? I am going to microcenter today so would prefer to buy one from there. Here's a link to their cooling catalog:
http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.phtml?N=4294966928

From my understanding I just need a T junction (will any 1/2" diameter barb fit the RASA kit tubing tightly like the included barbs ?), and a stopper thingy ?

I am a noob when it comes to water cooling (and plumbing) so would love some advice, thanks.

Edit: Will this T fitting, + this drain port do ?
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0391795
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0391782

Sadly microcenter doesnt the fitting ID size on the website, I will try asking via livechat / looking it up when I am at the store.


----------



## Skyboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocraft*
> 
> Could someone recommend me the parts I would need to set up a drain valve ? I am going to microcenter today so would prefer to buy one from there. Here's a link to their cooling catalog:
> http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.phtml?N=4294966928
> From my understanding I just need a T junction (will any 1/2" diameter barb fit the RASA kit tubing tightly like the included barbs ?), and a stopper thingy ?
> I am a noob when it comes to water cooling (and plumbing) so would love some advice, thanks.
> Edit: Will this T fitting, + this drain port do ?
> http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0391795
> http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0391782
> Sadly microcenter doesnt the fitting ID size on the website, I will try asking via livechat / looking it up when I am at the store.


I don't think the fill port will work inside a tube but that's my opinion. I would get a stop fitting like this: Bitspower Silver shining Stop Fitting - BP-WTP-C06 from jabtech or performance-pcs or where you get your WC products. The T-fitting will work but unless you're going to use the fill port for a reservoir I would get a better one that has a barb as well.

Edit: I just realized that the stop fittings that I posted will only cover a reservoir as well. They might not work well for tubing.


----------



## The Sandman

Just to give you something to look at, this what I've run for the last 1.5 yrs

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2195/ex-res-45/Danger_Den_Fillport_-_Black.html?tl=g30c101s460

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2275/ex-tub-14/12_ID_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting.html?tl=g30c499s745


This is using PremoChill 7/16 tubing.
I will say the T-Fitting does hold up real well (changed tubing 5 times so far) but looked at what Skyboss recommended for T-Fitting and am about to order this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html?tl=g30c499s745


----------



## JacobGardiner-M

Hello,

After Adding a PSU and Also Keeping the PSU cable management block In the bottom of the case, Would I be able to mount a 360mm or 240mm Radiator on top of them? Trying to find the best configuration with enough radiators.



On top of there for example - Considering I will not be using these GPU's and I will be using the highest slots possible

Kind regards

Jacob


----------



## mandrix

OK, guys, got a problem here. Temps are not good and I'm trying to run down the problem with this new install of the XSPC kit.
I've pulled the cpu block and reseated, tilted the pc from side to side but no good, as soon as fire up IBT on standard the temps jump to 90.
The pump is definitely running.

Still got a bad seat with the block you think? First time I cross tightened until the screws stopped, then added a little more tension with the nuts. Second time did same except slowly cranked down all 4 until springs compressed.


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> OK, guys, got a problem here. Temps are not good and I'm trying to run down the problem with this new install of the XSPC kit.
> I've pulled the cpu block and reseated, tilted the pc from side to side but no good, as soon as fire up IBT on standard the temps jump to 90.
> The pump is definitely running.
> Still got a bad seat with the block you think? First time I cross tightened until the screws stopped, then added a little more tension with the nuts. Second time did same except slowly cranked down all 4 until springs compressed.


What is your clock/voltage at?

What is your idle?

How are you spreading your tim?

I bought a new block cause mine that came in the kit was way too convex. Might want to check that also.


----------



## mandrix

I'm running a 12 hour stable 4.5 clock, didn't have these temps with the NH-D12. I used MX-2 TIM with 2 thin lines at 1/3rds on the cpu like I usually do. I'm running all the power saving so my idle volts are around .9 and max at 1.296 @ 4.5.


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm running a 12 hour stable 4.5 clock, didn't have these temps with the NH-D12. I used MX-2 TIM with 2 thin lines at 1/3rds on the cpu like I usually do. I'm running all the power saving so my idle volts are around .9 and max at 1.296 @ 4.5.


Well the only thing I can think of is how convex is your cold plate is on your block? Put the block on a flat surface and see how bad it wobbles. Mine was pretty bad so that is why i bought a new block. I was also having temp issues; not as bad as you but I don't have IVY just SB-E.


----------



## mandrix

what was the result of the block replacement? Is it often people get a bad block with the kits?
My temps are just skyrocketing when doing light stress testing. Oh well, I'll pull the block again.


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> what was the result of the block replacement? Is it often people get a bad block with the kits?
> My temps are just skyrocketing when doing light stress testing. Oh well, I'll pull the block again.


My temps were around 75C under load. Went to a Ek block and temps went to 55-60C with same settings. I changed nothing but the block and you can see it made a world of difference.


----------



## Outlawed

I'm thinking of switching from my h100 to one of the 240mm kits (the newer version that has a rad 2x as thick for $170).

I'm really all about the customization, hints why I love building pcs. That said, if I can "build" my own loop and give the system a sexier look then I'm down. Just been hesitant to be in charge of getting water around my system. Now that I see the kit, I think I can do this.

But what kind of temp changes between my h100 could I expect to see? Again this is going to be the $170 240mm version, so a very thick rad. I am currently running a 3930k [email protected] 1.3v, max temps in prime are 75. Will I be able to go higher to reach that same result with this loop?


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> I'm thinking of switching from my h100 to one of the 240mm kits (the newer version that has a rad 2x as thick for $170).
> I'm really all about the customization, hints why I love building pcs. That said, if I can "build" my own loop and give the system a sexier look then I'm down. Just been hesitant to be in charge of getting water around my system. Now that I see the kit, I think I can do this.
> But what kind of temp changes between my h100 could I expect to see? Again this is going to be the $170 240mm version, so a very thick rad. I am currently running a 3930k [email protected] 1.3v, max temps in prime are 75. Will I be able to go higher to reach that same result with this loop?


Well I got a 3820 here is what I get.

Clock: 4750MHz
VCORE: 1.365
IDLE TEMP: 28-35C
LOAD TEMP (Prime and Folding Stable 24hrs+): 55-60C

Clock: 4875MHz
VCORE: 1.40
IDLE TEMP: 28-35C
LOAD TEMP (Prime and Folding Stable 24hrs+) 60-65C

I have the RX240 kit but with a different block (EK-Supreme HF - Full EN Nickel)


----------



## Outlawed

Hmm, not sure how to translate that into my cpu. They are both SB-E 2011, but those 2 extra cores on mine have to add a decent amount of extra heat. Also forgot to mention that I am running 2x140mm fans in push and 2x120mm fans in pull on my h100. I will be doing the same with the xspc.

Like I said as long as temps aren't worse I will be doing this as soon as I can sell my h100, but I would assume that a custom kit like this could help disapate heat more efficiently? Especially with a rad that is twice as thick?

Edit: I just read under a review of my cpu at newegg.com that somebody was able to get a 5.1ghz OC with max temps of 39 C under load with their custom loop. I realize every chip is different (although mine tends to be fairly good with the current OC to voltage ratio) and he was probably running a quad rad.

Still is this justification between switching from prefilled to custom?


----------



## mandrix

This IB is gonna run hot, but I was getting rediculous temps. Seems to be straightened out now.


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> This IB is gonna run hot, but I was getting rediculous temps. Seems to be straightened out now.


That is great news. What was it?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BackwoodsNC*
> 
> That is great news. What was it?


Can't say. Took it down, TIM looked good, got my wife to hold the backplate so I wasn't fumbling around (they don't put much sticky on those things, thank goodness) remounted and all seems good. If I had to take a guess I'd say temps somewhere 5-10 degrees better under load @ 4.5 than with NH-D12.


----------



## Deeya

Just finishing resetting my loop. Adding a new GPU to it will full water block (OC'd 6970) and a second radiator. Idle temps on CPU went up around ~3C when idle, load temps remained about the same though.


----------



## Skyboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Just to give you something to look at, this what I've run for the last 1.5 yrs
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2195/ex-res-45/Danger_Den_Fillport_-_Black.html?tl=g30c101s460
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2275/ex-tub-14/12_ID_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting.html?tl=g30c499s745
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is using PremoChill 7/16 tubing.
> I will say the T-Fitting does hold up real well (changed tubing 5 times so far) but looked at what Skyboss recommended for T-Fitting and am about to order this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html?tl=g30c499s745


Sandman, have you seen this from Performance-pcs? It's like a mini toilet valve! Lol.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyboss*
> 
> Sandman, have you seen this from Performance-pcs? It's like a mini toilet valve! Lol.


It sure does








I'm just starting to look at the finer details of my loop now that the novelty is just starting to ware off a bit. Thanks for the link!


----------



## zerocraft

I opened up my rasa block while cleaning my loop (saw some gunk inside, turned out to be illusions







). I am not sure how this little plastic piece goes back on, any idea ?

edged side up?


flat side up ?
http://i.imgur.com/WcySb.jpg

whats under the piece:
http://i.imgur.com/1C00E.jpg


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> Just finishing resetting my loop. Adding a new GPU to it will full water block (OC'd 6970) and a second radiator. Idle temps on CPU went up around ~3C when idle, load temps remained about the same though.


Looks awsome cant wait till I can get wc gpu.


----------



## mandrix

So I have the RX240 installed for a few days now and it's doing pretty well. I'm mostly posting this for info as I know I did a lot of searching and measuring before I bought the kit and maybe someone else with HAF 922 might want to know.
Anyway it's installed inside top of a HAF 922 case.
On the motherboard side it clears the ram fairly well, although I have not tried pulling any out of the slots yet. On the opposite side it is lined up to the last row of grill holes (the short row) so 100% of the rad is NOT exposed to open grill, probably more like 98%. Regardless the cooling has been pretty good if not totally optimized because of some of the air flow being blocked. Highest temp so far in a currently running custom Prime 95 run is 73 with 3770K cpu, compared to around 86 or so with the Noctua NH-D12. I'm still working on bringing volts down so that may account for a few degrees.

Also still working on getting the fans to change speed with my Rheobus Extreme controller, need to go back over the wiring and see what's wrong. They are connected to a Y which also has a 2 wire leg connected to the cpu fan header for monitoring rpm. That same wiring set works fine with the single rear fan I have so I guess I need to pull it all back apart and look at it again.


----------



## Costfree

RS240 inside my switch. Looking to maybe add an EX240 and WC my GPU in the near future.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costfree*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RS240 inside my switch. Looking to maybe add an EX240 and WC my GPU in the near future.


Are you using the dual bay resevoir in your hot swap bay without problems clearing that backplate? I was about to rearrange my setup and see if this would work, as I'm running out of bays. If so it would save me a lot of head scratching. Thanks!


----------



## Costfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Are you using the dual bay resevoir in your hot swap bay without problems clearing that backplate? I was about to rearrange my setup and see if this would work, as I'm running out of bays. If so it would save me a lot of head scratching. Thanks!


I actually took out the backplate. I figured I am not going to be putting it to use so I took it out. The top 5.25 bay is not in use but part of my RAD in PP is occupying it. Im either going to move it or find a play to mount a fan controller if and when I buy one. I'd rather add my gpu to the loop before that though.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costfree*
> 
> I actually took out the backplate. I figured I am not going to be putting it to use so I took it out. The top 5.25 bay is not in use but part of my RAD in PP is occupying it. Im either going to move it or find a play to mount a fan controller if and when I buy one. I'd rather add my gpu to the loop before that though.


Just what I needed to know. I'll probably just drill a hole in mine, as I still intend to use it and it should only be the outflowing port that's blocked, right?

Not at home so I can't check.


----------



## Costfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Just what I needed to know. I'll probably just drill a hole in mine, as I still intend to use it and it should only be the outflowing port that's blocked, right?
> Not at home so I can't check.


Yes by looking at it I believe its the inflowing port thats going to be restricted. Maybe if you have the res in place it you might not need to drill a hole maybe just buy some anti kink tubing. My res is recessed in so its hidden and I put the bay covers back on the front to hide it from view. How are you gonna use it if you have the RES there btw? I'd suggest you just take it out completely and if you decide you want to use that later in the future then just put it back in. Its going to be a PITA to take the res out if its occupying that bay just to use the hotswap don't you think?


----------



## Kaneda13

was really liking the way my UV lighting was looking in my Raystorm, but I wanted it to be a little brighter, so I pulled out the 2000mcd LEDs and replaced them with some 3000mcd ones:

BEFORE:









AFTER:


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costfree*
> 
> Yes by looking at it I believe its the inflowing port thats going to be restricted. Maybe if you have the res in place it you might not need to drill a hole maybe just buy some anti kink tubing. My res is recessed in so its hidden and I put the bay covers back on the front to hide it from view. How are you gonna use it if you have the RES there btw? I'd suggest you just take it out completely and if you decide you want to use that later in the future then just put it back in. Its going to be a PITA to take the res out if its occupying that bay just to use the hotswap don't you think?


Setups change over time, but now that I'm looking at it at home the backplate on my hotswap bay has screws. Haven't tried to remove it yet since it's currently holding a hard drive, but that makes things a lot easier. Now if only I could find someone to do some laser etching...


----------



## Costfree

Would it be ok to add a GPU block and another RAD(ek240) with this kit? or is the pump too weak?


----------



## Deeya

I just added a GPU and a second 240 radiator and it seems to be doing fine. When I was bleeding out the bubbles the flow looked pretty good, no actual flow/pressure measurements, just eyeballing it.


----------



## DBEAU

Hey guys, I'd like to get some feedback on my temps as it seems they may be a little high...

I have a 2600k running at 5ghz with 1.48 vcore HT off and a XSPC rasa / rx240 with 2 1000rpm fans in push.

Ambient temps are around 22c. Idle temps are between 25c-30c. After about twenty minutes of prime95 blend temps can get all the way up to 83c. Is this normal?

Reason I ask is because I saw someone with a NH-D14 posting about having similar load temps and I figured with my xspc kit i'd get way better temps than an air cooler.

Thanks


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Hey guys, I'd like to get some feedback on my temps as it seems they may be a little high...
> I have a 2600k running at 5ghz with 1.48 vcore HT off and a XSPC rasa / rx240 with 2 1000rpm fans in push.
> Ambient temps are around 22c. Idle temps are between 25c-30c. After about twenty minutes of prime95 blend temps can get all the way up to 83c. Is this normal?
> Reason I ask is because I saw someone with a NH-D14 posting about having similar load temps and I figured with my xspc kit i'd get way better temps than an air cooler.
> Thanks


You may need faster RPM fans. Even though the RX is designed for low-RPM fans, using higher-RPM fans will still dissipate more wattage. You should also check to see if your CPU block spread the TIM effectively, otherwise you will have to remount it.

I actually get 80+C with Prime95 Blend with my 2550K running 5ghz with 1.456V, though I have a rad similar to the RX360 and I'm also running 2 GPUs in my loop.


----------



## macarule

i had similar problems, i found the RASA to convex and i was getting bad TIM spread i bought a D-TEK fuzion v2 and it dropped my load temps 20C


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden*
> 
> I wouldn't mind.... But I already have mine set up.
> 
> Maybe when I go clean the water.
> 
> Here is a pretty good video but for the RS120
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You Tube


ahh. thank goodness this is done on a rc692







will help alot when im installing the kit. also i couldnt find any data but instead of rx240 kit should i go with same pump+res, apogee white and EX240? will the Apogee differ that much on a 3570K (im upgrading the whole rig except case)


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> i had similar problems, i found the RASA to convex and i was getting bad TIM spread i bought a D-TEK fuzion v2 and it dropped my load temps 20C


That's strange considering the Fuzion v2 is older and doesn't perform as well as the Rasa, maybe you just had bad mounts?


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> That's strange considering the Fuzion v2 is older and doesn't perform as well as the Rasa, maybe you just had bad mounts?


I re-mounted over 10 times, tried every single way of mounting it. the D-TEK was actually a really good block 2-3 years ago and i seem to be getting awesome temps with it, i max out in the low 60's and idle 8-9C of ambient temp, compared to mid 40's idle and mid 80's after 10 mins of load...


----------



## DBEAU

Thanks for the response before. I have another question. I think I might pick up a Raystorm on my way home to replace the Rasa and was wondering if I could just clamp the hoses right before the block and replace the block without having to drain the entire loop?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Thanks for the response before. I have another question. I think I might pick up a Raystorm on my way home to replace the Rasa and was wondering if I could just clamp the hoses right before the block and replace the block without having to drain the entire loop?


certainly, you will still be introducing a bit of air in tot he system, but this can be done. just be careful how tight you clamp the hoses as not to kink or crack them.


----------



## mandrix

Curious about feedback on a different cpu block mounting system, preferably that isn't too expensive?
-and-
recommended quieter fans for the RX240 ?
-and-
Raystorm cpu blocks? Worth it?

Thanks for replies, still got a lot to learn about wc.


----------



## 2therock

I cannot find a dealer that has a XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 in stock. Anyone?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> I re-mounted over 10 times, tried every single way of mounting it. the D-TEK was actually a really good block 2-3 years ago and i seem to be getting awesome temps with it, i max out in the low 60's and idle 8-9C of ambient temp, compared to mid 40's idle and mid 80's after 10 mins of load...


If it works for you, then I can't really argue that. I considered a lot of the cheaper blocks when I was first building my loop, but reviews said otherwise and I got my Rasa on sale for $30 new.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Thanks for the response before. I have another question. I think I might pick up a Raystorm on my way home to replace the Rasa and was wondering if I could just clamp the hoses right before the block and replace the block without having to drain the entire loop?


You may have to spill a bit of the water so you can suspend the tubes in air without spilling on anything. Just make sure you do not take the cap off your reservoir or else the pressure keeping the water in the tubing will force the water out. That was my mistake, but I had a plastic pan that caught all the water just in case.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Curious about feedback on a different cpu block mounting system, preferably that isn't too expensive?
> -and-
> recommended quieter fans for the RX240 ?
> -and-
> Raystorm cpu blocks? Worth it?
> Thanks for replies, still got a lot to learn about wc.


The Raystorm is just slightly better than the Rasa, but its main advantage is that it has very little restriction, so your flow rate is barely effected, while the Rasa block will restrict your flow a slight bit. This isn't a problem unless you're planning on using 3 or more restrictive blocks on the stock pump/res of this kit. I'm using 3 Rasa blocks (CPU, 2x Universal GPU), but I also have a stronger pump, so it's not a problem for me.

As for fans, if you're on a budget, the medium or low-speed Yate Loons are very decent and you can probably get 3-4 of them for the price of a Gentle Typhoon. Otherwise, I would suggest the AP-15 GTs with a fan controller if price is of no concern.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> I cannot find a dealer that has a XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 in stock. Anyone?


I think they are all out right now, though it looks like FrozenCPU should be getting some in a week or two, so the other retailers may be getting it around the same time. If you can spend a bit more and your case allows for it, you should consider the RS360 kit or even the RS120 kit and getting a 2nd radiator.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The Raystorm is just slightly better than the Rasa, but its main advantage is that it has very little restriction, so your flow rate is barely effected, while the Rasa block will restrict your flow a slight bit. This isn't a problem unless you're planning on using 3 or more restrictive blocks on the stock pump/res of this kit. I'm using 3 Rasa blocks (CPU, 2x Universal GPU), but I also have a stronger pump, so it's not a problem for me.
> As for fans, if you're on a budget, the medium or low-speed Yate Loons are very decent and you can probably get 3-4 of them for the price of a Gentle Typhoon. Otherwise, I would suggest the AP-15 GTs with a fan controller if price is of no concern.


At this time I'm just cooling the cpu and wondered if it was worth it for me, although a few more degrees might be worthwhile.
I have a fan controller already, just want some quieter fans if possible while torture testing.

Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## DBEAU

Lol so as my previous post stated I was concerned about the high temperatures I was getting with my rasa / rx240 kit. On my way home I picked up a raystorm and when I got home I noticed a slight imperfection in the plate so rather than return it I decided I was going to lap the block and my processor









And so here I sit seeing the same temps as before lol ***. I'll try out some higher rpm fans tomorrow and see where that gets me.

EDIT: I threw in some 1650rpm fans and I'm still hitting 84c... Where do I go from here?


----------



## macarule

Check for any flow restrictions, if that fails then get lapping my friend!








Also what is your thermal Paste spread like?


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Curious about feedback on a different cpu block mounting system, preferably that isn't too expensive?
> -and-
> recommended quieter fans for the RX240 ?
> -and-
> Raystorm cpu blocks? Worth it?
> Thanks for replies, still got a lot to learn about wc.


I love my Raystorm. Good temps and looks awesome.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Check for any flow restrictions, if that fails then get lapping my friend!


I already lapped the block and the processor.. I don't know what to do honestly


----------



## macarule

Whats the TIM spread like on the bottom of the block?


----------



## DBEAU

I took the block off and there was a circular spread a little bigger than a nickle. Not quite enough to cover the entire chip so I cleaned it up and tried again. Temps seem to have gone down a little bit but I'm still hitting 80c. Maybe I'll pull the block off again tomorrow and take it from there but for now I need some sleep...

EDIT: spoke too soon... 87c


----------



## Kokin

Looks like your pump is not running at full speed or there is something that is restricting or slowing down your flow rate, have you rotated and shook your case to get rid of air bubbles stuck in your CPU block? I once had air bubbles trapped in my CPU block when I first built my loop and temps dropped 5-7C right after it was cleared.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> I love my Raystorm. Good temps and looks awesome.


Thanks. How much better temps do you get than the kit block?


----------



## Way2grouchy

Sorry double. tired


----------



## Way2grouchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Thanks. How much better temps do you get than the kit block?


Never installed kit block. Raystorm 49.99 at sidewinder. Liked the looks so bought it. I can tell u runs 19 - 22 idle never seen it over 36 - 39 gaming depending on game. Im sure that all depends on room temp and case though, but thats about what i get. Im running a 2500k at 4.5. Hope that helps.


----------



## zerocraft

Hmm so I am hitting like 82-84C on load @ 4.6ghz / 1.295Vcore on my Ivy 3570k build with an rs360 kit. Are these good temps for entry level water loops? I am not sure what to expect so wanted to make sure I didn't screw something up in the assembly. My loop goes pump > rad > cpu > res, is bubble free (I assembled outside and gave it a lot of good shakes to get all the bubbles out). I am running 4 fans, 3 push 1 pull in the center (its a NZXT phantom, thats the most I could fit without modifying the case too much).


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Looks like your pump is not running at full speed or there is something that is restricting or slowing down your flow rate, have you rotated and shook your case to get rid of air bubbles stuck in your CPU block? I once had air bubbles trapped in my CPU block when I first built my loop and temps dropped 5-7C right after it was cleared.


I've shaken and turned and banged my case around and there doesn't seem to be any more bubbles left. I'll flip it around some more when I get home but I think it's purged. The flow seemed pretty good when I refilled it just judging by how fast the bubbles were flowing out but honestly I'm not sure how to tell if my flow rate is good or not... I really didn't want to have to drop any more cash on this but I may pick up that XSPC res with the D5 pump in it. I figured the pump that came with it was plenty for a cpu only loop but maybe it's not running right.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> I cannot find a dealer that has a XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 in stock. Anyone?


performance-pcs.com
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_202_972&zenid=e9c5d0304e74543c709b058390defdd8


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> Never installed kit block. Raystorm 49.99 at sidewinder. Liked the looks so bought it. I can tell u runs 19 - 22 idle never seen it over 36 - 39 gaming depending on game. Im sure that all depends on room temp and case though, but thats about what i get. Im running a 2500k at 4.5. Hope that helps.


Sorry, I missed your post.
Appreciate the feedback. My max temp in Prime 95 is 76c using 90% memory and with an ambient of 25c. Don't know if I can better that much since I'm only 1 loop and my graphics isn't generating a lot of heat with the dual 6850's. Plus the rad is top mounted inside pushing and I've got 2 200mm fans pulling air in and a 120 out.


----------



## DBEAU

In my search for why my temps are as high as they are (85c full load) I noticed something weird... I intentionally crimped one of the tubes while running prime95 to see if temps would spike and they didn't. What could this mean? If I unplug the pump the temps skyrocket but if I clamp the tube off the temps don't change at all. I'm so confused.


----------



## 2therock

Originally Posted by 2therock View Post
I cannot find a dealer that has a XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 in stock. Anyone?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> performance-pcs.com
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_202_972&zenid=e9c5d0304e74543c709b058390defdd8


Thanks, I know I viewed that site several times and seen the out of stock but then I do a "Notify Me" and he comes right back telling me he has had them for months.

anyway, I ordered. Thanks Again.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> In my search for why my temps are as high as they are (85c full load) I noticed something weird... I intentionally crimped one of the tubes while running prime95 to see if temps would spike and they didn't. What could this mean? If I unplug the pump the temps skyrocket but if I clamp the tube off the temps don't change at all. I'm so confused.


Crimping the tube, if it did not close it off completely your loop could have still had some flow, I'm guessing. So at least you know your pump works.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Originally Posted by 2therock View Post
> I cannot find a dealer that has a XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 in stock. Anyone?
> Thanks, I know I viewed that site several times and seen the out of stock but then I do a "Notify Me" and he comes right back telling me he has had them for months.
> anyway, I ordered. Thanks Again.


You're welcome. I noticed that they were listed recently as out of stock, but someone else contacted them and they said they've had them for a while. Just don't update their webpage, I guess.


----------



## chinesethunda

how many fans are you guys putting on the rs360?
I have 5 gt ap15s and was just wondering if i should have it push pull or or just push or pull


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> how many fans are you guys putting on the rs360?
> I have 5 gt ap15s and was just wondering if i should have it push pull or or just push or pull


I run six GT AP-15's usually 1350 to 1400 rpms. Not because I need too temp wise but I wanted to run quiet at lower rpms (and I had three extra just for this purpose). Push will give the best performance if you're not running P/P.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> how many fans are you guys putting on the rs360?
> I have 5 gt ap15s and was just wondering if i should have it push pull or or just push or pull


I believe this will give you the answers you seek...


----------



## chinesethunda

none of the pics are there =(
but i got a good idea though


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I took the block off and there was a circular spread a little bigger than a nickle. Not quite enough to cover the entire chip so I cleaned it up and tried again. Temps seem to have gone down a little bit but I'm still hitting 80c. Maybe I'll pull the block off again tomorrow and take it from there but for now I need some sleep...
> EDIT: spoke too soon... 87c


sounds like the exact same problem as i had, that is no where near good enough contact... is the block hitting your CPU socket? i had to remove the hinged bit on my socket to get decent contact, seems to have been warped by a big air cooler


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> none of the pics are there =(
> but i got a good idea though


Try it now.


----------



## 2therock

Talk to me about case airflow and what I should do here. I am building this rig now and see I can easily end up with 7 intake options and one exhaust with this thing bulging at the sides.
The case already has the front 2 and single rear fans with a single 140mm up top that will come out when I install the RS240 Kit radiator.

As you can see I can add a 120 or 140mm on the floor forward of the PSU and a 92 or 120mm fan behind the mobo.

Your words on the matter will be appreciated.


----------



## macarule

Looks good to me, just set the one behind the motherboard tray as exhaust so it isnt pushing the hot air behind the mobo into the case


----------



## zerocraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Try it now.


Very interesting. I was planning on reorienting my radiator fans today anyway, this should help. 1 question though about using shrouds. There is a significant space/clearance between the radiator heatsink surface (the fins), and the mount points for the fans, will using a shroud still serve it's purpose in this case?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocraft*
> 
> Very interesting. I was planning on reorienting my radiator fans today anyway, this should help. 1 question though about using shrouds. There is a significant space/clearance between the radiator heatsink surface (the fins), and the mount points for the fans, will using a shroud still serve it's purpose in this case?


it will still work as a shroud just fine, but a lot of modern radiators are "building in" shrouds to help with cooling, for example, my RS240 has about 5mm between the fan surface and the fins, though any more you put in there would help. i read once (and i can't find a link) that the distance between the fins and the fan blades should be 1/2 the diameter of the fan hub, to remove the "dead spot" at the center of the fan completely. while i can't do this in my case because of space considerations, it does make sense.


----------



## chinesethunda

much better, i will probably go push/pull. now to see if i can fit room for a shroud


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocraft*
> 
> Very interesting. I was planning on reorienting my radiator fans today anyway, this should help. 1 question though about using shrouds. There is a significant space/clearance between the radiator heatsink surface (the fins), and the mount points for the fans, will using a shroud still serve it's purpose in this case?


Optimal shroud clearance is 30mm from fan to rad. (it's in the link on the last page). My RS360 has maybe 5mm from rad to fan mounting surface. What I did was to make use of some old 120mm x 25mm fans I had laying around, cut out the center (motor and mounts) smoothed, and used these frames for a shroud/spacer (25mm + 5mm = 30mm) on the push side. A one piece shroud will give better performance but haven't decided if it's worth the $$$.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Talk to me about case airflow and what I should do here. I am building this rig now and see I can easily end up with 7 intake options and one exhaust with this thing bulging at the sides.
> The case already has the front 2 and single rear fans with a single 140mm up top that will come out when I install the RS240 Kit radiator.
> As you can see I can add a 120 or 140mm on the floor forward of the PSU and a 92 or 120mm fan behind the mobo.
> Your words on the matter will be appreciated.


I've seen this type of setup before and the post was asking where are NB temps so high. You need to think more about directing the air flow. Hot air goes where you push it!
What you'll have in this pic is hot air just circulating through out the case with no means of escaping. Too many intake, not enough exhaust.
We have similar case lay outs and fan quantity and what I found works best is to have rad in top as exhaust. The heat from HDD's, GPU/s etc is not that great considering there's two front fans blowing over the HDD's while the bottom (140mm) and side panel fan (230mm I think mine is) help cool GPU. The fan behind the mobo I use a 120mm (thin) as intake to help cool the CPU and VRM areas from the back side too.
These are all controlled by a fan controller and most run a lot less than full rpm which is quieter and cools like a dream. I have three temp sensors and read ambient from in front of the front fans. An interior case temp which is mounted near the upper rear corner of case and the temp difference is never more than 2c on the hottest days with no AC. More commonly equal, or +1c.
I also have some very cool NB and SB temps as well as the GPU.


----------



## zerocraft

looks like he is going for positive pressure to decrease dust buildup?

thanks for the tip on shrouds. Unfortunately the only fans I have lying around that I could mutilate into a shroud are 38mms, which apart from being sub optimal, would definitely not fit in my case anyway.
Right now I don't really see a need to improve my cooling, since my damn ivy5 has a massive voltage wall going from 4.5 to 4.6ghz







, I'm just gonna wait till I can grab a full block for my 670gtx before I modify my watercool setup again.

Any other i5 ivy users around here with rasa blocks? how far are you guys getting with these things ?


----------



## Matt26LFC

My god, I'm flushing my new RX240 rad and the ****e coming out of it lol, one piece especially a big lump!! I'll throw up pics soon so people can see why sometimes its important to flush before you use lol Don't know if XSPCs new rads are better, but this is my 2nd RX and both where filthy inside lol


----------



## Topazsparrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> My god, I'm flushing my new RX240 rad and the ****e coming out of it lol, one piece especially a big lump!! I'll throw up pics soon so people can see why sometimes its important to flush before you use lol Don't know if XSPCs new rads are better, but this is my 2nd RX and both where filthy inside lol


I just finished assembling my raystorm kit last night and it was clean as a whistle (RX240 and EX120)


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topazsparrow*
> 
> I just finished assembling my raystorm kit last night and it was clean as a whistle (RX240 and EX120)


Interesting, like I say I've had 2 now and both certainly needed a flush.

So I'm assuming you started flushing your rad and nothing but clear water came out of it?


----------



## Topazsparrow

That is correct. But to be fair, I didn't do a "proper" flush. I only leak tested the system and ran it with the pump on.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topazsparrow*
> 
> That is correct. But to be fair, I didn't do a "proper" flush. I only leak tested the system and ran it with the pump on.


You should always flush especially the rads because there is often crap left in them from the manufacturing/soldering process that can plug up the small fins in your waterblock(s)!


----------



## BackwoodsNC

I flushed my RX240 hardcore for about 10minutes and nothing come out.


----------



## mandrix

I made a hot vinegar/water mix and shook hell out of rx240 and flushed with a gallon of distilled. Seemed pretty clean to me, though. I was more worried about flux so I figured the vinegar would help get it out.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BackwoodsNC*
> 
> I flushed my RX240 hardcore for about 10minutes and nothing come out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I made a hot vinegar/water mix and shook hell out of rx240 and flushed with a gallon of distilled. Seemed pretty clean to me, though. I was more worried about flux so I figured the vinegar would help get it out.


Yeah when I flushed mine almost nothing came out of my rad, it's just a good idea cause you never know if you're going to get one of the ones that is just full of crap


----------



## Gainward

Excuse me but, what is "flushing" ?







and how can I flush my rad?


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Dump the water out of it...


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> Dump the water out of it...


And what's the benefit ?


----------



## JourdanWithaU

If there is any kind of debris in the system is comes out with the fluid.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> Excuse me but, what is "flushing" ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and how can I flush my rad?


Flushing is exactly what the same suggests, you are flushing and crap in the rad out so it doesn't clog you waterblock up and decrease your cooling.

There are several ways to flush them, the easiest way is to dump some water in plug it back up shake it then dump the water out and repeat as many times as you need to. I went to the hardware store and got an adapter that screws onto my kitchen sink and has a barbed fitting on it so I can hoop up some spare tubing to the sink and use the house water pressure to flush them. Then I use the first method and dump in some distilled water a few times to flush out the tap water as much as possible. Last you could get a pump and inline filter of some kind and simply fill run and wait


----------



## rdr09

hello,

my rad is in (well it is outside the case). is it ok to hook everything up and test for leaks prior to installing the motherboard?



thanks.


----------



## Way2grouchy

It wont hurt, sounds like u wanna test yr pump. Thats fine but when you get the rest together u will still have to leak test again. Once you put in mb and other stuff u will be putting different pressure in different places while routing tubing. So its very important to test once everything is where its gonna be and if you change anything in yr loop leak test again.


----------



## 2therock

Thanks for the words on my post guys. Looks like I'll take the advice of pushing out of the case through the RAD.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Way2grouchy*
> 
> It wont hurt, sounds like u wanna test yr pump. Thats fine but when you get the rest together u will still have to leak test again. Once you put in mb and other stuff u will be putting different pressure in different places while routing tubing. So its very important to test once everything is where its gonna be and if you change anything in yr loop leak test again.


sounds good. i'll test again after everything is put back together. yes, i like to test the pump and possibly get rid of all the air as much as i can. thanks again.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> hello,
> my rad is in (well it is outside the case). is it ok to hook everything up and test for leaks prior to installing the motherboard?
> 
> thanks.


Whats a kind of case in picture?


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Thanks for the words on my post guys. Looks like I'll take the advice of pushing out of the case through the RAD.


terrible idea, if you are going to go full intake and one exhaust, you better cut out your rear grill and NOT have a fan at all, so its full intake, otherwise you will create too much pressure inside and make your temps worse


----------



## Derko1

Anyone got pictures of their rads set up outside, both back and on top? I am so undecided which way to go. Also, what about the connections to the rad, if it's in the back, should they be on top or on the bottom?

I have an HAF 922 BTW and will be installing the RX360 today.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Whats a kind of case in picture?


it is a cheap cm elite 430. i had to trace the shape of the rad to make it work. no room inside the case.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Anyone got pictures of their rads set up outside, both back and on top? I am so undecided which way to go. Also, what about the connections to the rad, if it's in the back, should they be on top or on the bottom?
> I have an HAF 922 BTW and will be installing the RX360 today.


My previous build I ran a RS360 externally. It's not a HAF but it should give you the idea. I ran ports on top for better tube placement (in this M59). Local hardware store usually sell what's called a "Step Drill" if you need to add holes. Works like a dream. Also grab some grommets (5/8 by 7/8), make a 7/8 dia hole, install grommets, done!


----------



## mandrix

Decided to pull the RX240 out of the HAF 922 and put it on top so I can get access to the voltage check points.
Today I ordered new hi flex tubing, 2 swivel 90's, and 2 Phobya 120mm plexi radiator shrouds. I plan on mounting directly over the top grill with the fans on bottom, then the shrouds then the rad, wondering if you guys think the tubing will make the turn in the back ports made into the case? Or should I order some 45 or 90 inserts to help with the turn angle?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> terrible idea, if you are going to go full intake and one exhaust, you better cut out your rear grill and NOT have a fan at all, so its full intake, otherwise you will create too much pressure inside and make your temps worse


I think the temps will be fine. I have all intake and the rear fan out take. That is all. My temps are fine.


----------



## mandrix

Maybe I'll drill 2 holes in the top of the case and run the tubing through, I'm not sure it will make that bend to the back of the case unless I use a couple 'L's" in the loop. Or I can go to Lowes and look in the pc water cooling aisle for parts.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> I think the temps will be fine. I have all intake and the rear fan out take. That is all. My temps are fine.


yeap, that's how i have mine setup. 2 of these blowing in from the top, 3 of these blowing in from the front and bottom, and 1 of these as exhaust, and here are my temps after booting cold, running 3dMark06 and letting set for 1 minute:


----------



## Newbie2009

If you are running two graphics cards and cpu, is that too much for the XSPC pump supplied. I have an RX360 kit and my pump died after a few months.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newbie2009*
> 
> If you are running two graphics cards and cpu, is that too much for the XSPC pump supplied. I have an RX360 kit and my pump died after a few months.


If you were to read through this thread you'd see that the pump/res that comes with all of these kits is kinda a crap shoot. What I mean is that some times people get really lucky and get a good one and other times people have had nothing but trouble with the supplied pump, either it has died quickly or they just get a really noisy one. As far as would it be able to handle a CPU block and 2 vid cards I think that might be pushing it to it's limits and would suggest getting something with the D5 or the MCP655 style pumps.


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> If you were to read through this thread you'd see that the pump/res that comes with all of these kits is kinda a crap shoot. What I mean is that some times people get really lucky and get a good one and other times people have had nothing but trouble with the supplied pump, either it has died quickly or they just get a really noisy one. As far as would it be able to handle a CPU block and 2 vid cards I think that might be pushing it to it's limits and would suggest getting something with the D5 or the MCP655 style pumps.


Long thread, thanks, rep+


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newbie2009*
> 
> Long thread, thanks, rep+


Yeah it's a long thread, I've been following it for a while now and all in all I think that most of the pumps are good but some just seem to be crap from the start. Mine has been running now for 5 months and I've had not a single problem, so I don't understand why some work good and some don't









I've currently got my eye on this Res / Pump:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16088/ex-res-371/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Black.html?tl=g30c97s168

However to save some money I'll get this Pump separately:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13147/ex-pmp-131/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_Single_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s153


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yeah it's a long thread, I've been following it for a while now and all in all I think that most of the pumps are good but some just seem to be crap from the start. Mine has been running now for 5 months and I've had not a single problem, so I don't understand why some work good and some don't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've currently got my eye on this Res / Pump:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16088/ex-res-371/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Black.html?tl=g30c97s168
> However to save some money I'll get this Pump separately:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13147/ex-pmp-131/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_Single_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s153


So with that reservoir the pump bolts up to the bottom? (not the pump in the other link, their 2 "suggested" pumps)


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> hello,
> my rad is in (well it is outside the case). is it ok to hook everything up and test for leaks prior to installing the motherboard?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks.


Hmmm. I think that is what I'm going to do with my HAF 922. I'll drill 2 holes in the back/top for the tubing, easier than trying to get the tubing to go in the back ports.
I knew if I looked around here long enough I'd see something that would work!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Hmmm. I think that is what I'm going to do with my HAF 922. I'll drill 2 holes in the back/top for the tubing, easier than trying to get the tubing to go in the back ports.
> I knew if I looked around here long enough I'd see something that would work!


Ok the pump goes on the back of that Res and the fittings are also on the back next to the pump, and I wouldn't recommend drilling extra holes in the Res(if you're talking about drilling holes in your case then never mind







). You shouldn't have any problems getting your tubing to the fittings since it's a 5.25" bay mounted Res just like the one that comes in the kit. Also there are internal channels from the pump that go to the output hole for the fitting on the back so you'd have to at least use that one. As for the Pump I chose the Alphacool pump because it's a little less expensive than the more expensive of the 2 that you can choose to order with it and it's still variable speed.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Hmmm. I think that is what I'm going to do with my HAF 922. I'll drill 2 holes in the back/top for the tubing, easier than trying to get the tubing to go in the back ports.
> I knew if I looked around here long enough I'd see something that would work!


mandrix, make sure you trace your rad with care. i had to make the inlet/outlet holes bigger because it didn't line up well the first time. and like sandman said, use grommets. like you, i almost went over every page of this wonderfull thread. thanks OP!

i'll run leak test overnight and wrap it up tomorrow . . .



gl to you.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok the pump goes on the back of that Res and the fittings are also on the back next to the pump, and I wouldn't recommend drilling extra holes in the Res(if you're talking about drilling holes in your case then never mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). You shouldn't have any problems getting your tubing to the fittings since it's a 5.25" bay mounted Res just like the one that comes in the kit. Also there are internal channels from the pump that go to the output hole for the fitting on the back so you'd have to at least use that one. As for the Pump I chose the Alphacool pump because it's a little less expensive than the more expensive of the 2 that you can choose to order with it and it's still variable speed.


Yes, I'm going to drill the case.







But thanks for the info on the res and the pump!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> mandrix, make sure you trace your rad with care. i had to make the inlet/outlet holes bigger because it didn't line up well the first time. and like sandman said, use grommets. like you, i almost went over every page of this wonderfull thread. thanks OP!
> i'll run leak test overnight and wrap it up tomorrow . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL
> 
> 
> ]
> gl to you.


Thanks. I just priced a step drill at Lowes, didn't know those little buggers were so expensive. Hopefully I can round up some grommets somewhere, didn't see much of a selection on line at Lowe's.
(small town, we don't have much here).


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yes, I'm going to drill the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But thanks for the info on the res and the pump!
> Thanks. I just priced a step drill at Lowes, didn't know those little buggers were so expensive. Hopefully I can round up some grommets somewhere, didn't see much of a selection on line at Lowe's.
> (small town, we don't have much here).


try taking your case to lowes and see if they can drill it for you. might get away from buying stuff you'll only use one time. bring the rad with you.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> try taking your case to lowes and see if they can drill it for you. might get away from buying stuff you'll only use one time. bring the rad with you.


I don't even let them cut lumber for me anymore, I sure as hell ain't gonna let them drill my case.







Last time I asked them to cut some plywood 20" and it ended up being like 23".
But I can probably justify getting the bit, might be a long time but sooner or later I'll want it for something. I'm always tinkering.....


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I don't even let them cut lumber for me anymore, I sure as hell ain't gonna let them drill my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last time I asked them to cut some plywood 20" and it ended up being like 23".
> But I can probably justify getting the bit, might be a long time but sooner or later I'll want it for something. I'm always tinkering.....


you're right. better be safe than sorry. post some pics if you have time. thanks.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> you're right. better be safe than sorry. post some pics if you have time. thanks.


When I was a young man I worked in a welding/machine shop for years so I know layout work pretty good. Problem is usually trying to do $100 work with a $1 tool!







I'll measure off the rad ports center to center and and drill some small pilot holes for the step drill to follow, only concern is the rear of the case has those "steps" in it and depending on where I think I need to put the holes, those _could_ be a problem. I would like to use my small drill press but don't really have a way to anchor the case so I'll probably wing it with a hand drill.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> mandrix, make sure you trace your rad with care. i had to make the inlet/outlet holes bigger because it didn't line up well the first time. and like sandman said, use grommets. like you, i almost went over every page of this wonderfull thread. thanks OP!
> i'll run leak test overnight and wrap it up tomorrow . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gl to you.


wish my tubes were still that clear









looks really nice by the way, very neat job!


----------



## KimbaWLion

WOW way too much to read.... I JUST got a Lian Li PC-Z70... I was thinking of going with the Frozen CPU kits when I had some spare cash SOOOO much to read and learn! They start out at $129 but I REALLY like the one at Frozen CPU : http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15402/ex-wat-207/XSPC_Raystorm_RX240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX240_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310

BUT at almost $280 PLUS shipping it may be awhile....


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KimbaWLion*
> 
> WOW way too much to read.... I JUST got a Lian Li PC-Z70... I was thinking of going with the Frozen CPU kits when I had some spare cash SOOOO much to read and learn! They start out at $129 but I REALLY like the one at Frozen CPU : http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15402/ex-wat-207/XSPC_Raystorm_RX240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX240_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> BUT at almost $280 PLUS shipping it may be awhile....


i would shop around a bit, you might be able to peice a kit together and save some money, check out performancepcs and sidewinder computers, i have bought from both and have always been happy with the quality, pricing and speed.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> wish my tubes were still that clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks really nice by the way, very neat job!


The main problem with the clear tubing is that it will plasticize and when that happens they get cloudy, of course the cheaper the tubing the quicker this will happen. So I always say don't use the clear tubing that comes with the kit you can get 10 feet of a better quality tubing and even choose a different color for about $23!
Example ----> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s809/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-716_x_58_Tubing-Page1.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> i would shop around a bit, you might be able to peice a kit together and save some money, check out performancepcs and sidewinder computers, i have bought from both and have always been happy with the quality, pricing and speed.


The only issues that I've had have been with PerformancePcs, but it's nothing major they just have about the slowest shipping I've ever seen! When it comes to ordering the kits I'd say Frozen is the best place to go, only because they toss in the silver kill coil for free with the kit. Prices are fairly even between all the site you mentioned unless one of them is running some kind of major sale.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> it is a cheap cm elite 430. i had to trace the shape of the rad to make it work. no room inside the case.


CM Case!!?! Actually I was thought its Corsair Case. but Ah interesting.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yeah it's a long thread, I've been following it for a while now and all in all I think that most of the pumps are good but some just seem to be crap from the start. Mine has been running now for 5 months and I've had not a single problem, so I don't understand why some work good and some don't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've currently got my eye on this Res / Pump:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16088/ex-res-371/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Black.html?tl=g30c97s168
> 
> 
> However to save some money I'll get this Pump separately:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13147/ex-pmp-131/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_Single_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s153


Dude, Go for it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> mandrix, make sure you trace your rad with care. i had to make the inlet/outlet holes bigger because it didn't line up well the first time. and like sandman said, use grommets. like you, i almost went over every page of this wonderfull thread. thanks OP!
> i'll run leak test overnight and wrap it up tomorrow . . .
> 
> 
> 
> gl to you.


Nice setup and enjoy with your beautiful WC Loop.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KimbaWLion*
> 
> WOW way too much to read.... I JUST got a Lian Li PC-Z70... I was thinking of going with the Frozen CPU kits when I had some spare cash SOOOO much to read and learn! They start out at $129 but I REALLY like the one at Frozen CPU : http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15402/ex-wat-207/XSPC_Raystorm_RX240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX240_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> BUT at almost $280 PLUS shipping it may be awhile....


I went with the normal RX 360 kit for $200 and don't really regret not getting the Extreme so far.
Both my CPU and GPU are idling at 31 C. Just finished installing everything last night, so I haven't seen the load yet.

The RX 240 Kit is $20 cheaper than the 360 I think too.


----------



## mandrix

I ended up cutting 2 holes in front of the grill area in the HAF 922. Instead of the $40 step drill I found a 7/8" thin hole saw at lowes for less than $20 and it worked like a charm. I didn't even disassemble the pc, just move the rad over and put a butt load of painters tape underneath. I modded the back of the top plastic piece like others have done with my dremel. The grommets at lowes I had to really look at. They were listed as 1 1/8" OD x 5/8" ID. But they matched the 7/8" hole perfectly.
Haven't move the rad yet, parts coming in tomorrow hopefully, and I went with colored tubing this time and will just run distilled with the kill coil.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yeah it's a long thread, I've been following it for a while now and all in all I think that most of the pumps are good but some just seem to be crap from the start. Mine has been running now for 5 months and I've had not a single problem, so I don't understand why some work good and some don't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've currently got my eye on this Res / Pump:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16088/ex-res-371/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Black.html?tl=g30c97s168
> However to save some money I'll get this Pump separately:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13147/ex-pmp-131/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_Single_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s153


If you wait about a week, I think XPSC is coming out with their own D5 pump, might be barebones like the Alphacool. Sounds like from their face book page they are going to be offering on offical kit with the new res, pump and probably Raystorm block.


----------



## hyrule4927

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> mandrix, make sure you trace your rad with care. i had to make the inlet/outlet holes bigger because it didn't line up well the first time. and like sandman said, use grommets. like you, i almost went over every page of this wonderfull thread. thanks OP!
> i'll run leak test overnight and wrap it up tomorrow . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gl to you.


That looks fantastic! I was ready to replace my Elite 430 before water cooling because I didn't think it was very well suited for that, but after seeing what you managed I think I'll have to give it a shot with this case. Sorry if I missed this in an earlier post somewhere, but did you drill more holes in the top of the case to allow airflow for the rad fan closest to the front?


----------



## pahoran

so have any of you guys tried the newish XSPC EX Multiport and Cross over versions? I have a rasa 240 kit and im wanting to add a ex360 multiport. My main question is now with the multiport series, do i have to use the ports in a certain order? like either the 2 on the bottom or the two on the sides, or one on the side and one at the bottom? or one on the side and one on the bottom but not opposite to each other, like using the bottom one and a side one on the left side, or side one and bottom on the right?
I tried to find any info but I found nothing, not even at the XSPC site.

Any input appreciated.

P0w


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> CM Case!!?! Actually I was thought its Corsair Case. but Ah interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, Go for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice setup and enjoy with your beautiful WC Loop.


Thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyrule4927*
> 
> That looks fantastic! I was ready to replace my Elite 430 before water cooling because I didn't think it was very well suited for that, but after seeing what you managed I think I'll have to give it a shot with this case. Sorry if I missed this in an earlier post somewhere, but did you drill more holes in the top of the case to allow airflow for the rad fan closest to the front?


only the first 120mm fan hole lined up (closest to the barbs). i had to modify the next and create another for the third. a 240 would have suffice but it was not available at the time. the temps look better than this setup definitely . . .


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> CM Case!!?! Actually I was thought its Corsair Case. but Ah interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, Go for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice setup and enjoy with your beautiful WC Loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I ended up cutting 2 holes in front of the grill area in the HAF 922. Instead of the $40 step drill I found a 7/8" thin hole saw at lowes for less than $20 and it worked like a charm. I didn't even disassemble the pc, just move the rad over and put a butt load of painters tape underneath. I modded the back of the top plastic piece like others have done with my dremel. The grommets at lowes I had to really look at. They were listed as 1 1/8" OD x 5/8" ID. But they matched the 7/8" hole perfectly.
> Haven't move the rad yet, parts coming in tomorrow hopefully, and I went with colored tubing this time and will just run distilled with the kill coil.


can't wait to see the outcome.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> If you wait about a week, I think XPSC is coming out with their own D5 pump, might be barebones like the Alphacool. Sounds like from their face book page they are going to be offering on offical kit with the new res, pump and probably Raystorm block.


Interesting, however I don't think I'd really want to be one of the first to get the new pump since with their current pumps you never really know if you'll get a good one or not ! I do like the looks of the new Res though and will probably be upgrading my system to include it in the future and I look forward to some reviews of their new pump


----------



## macarule

Love winter time







18c ambient temps!


----------



## PlUmPaSsChIcKeN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Love winter time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 18c ambient temps!


Winter time?

Its May! Its freakin summer here in Texas (feels like it at least, in the 90s past few days)


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PlUmPaSsChIcKeN*
> 
> Winter time?
> Its May! Its freakin summer here in Texas (feels like it at least, in the 90s past few days)


She/He's from Australia. When it's Summer here, it's Winter there.


----------



## Abatement Yogin

Hello. I plan on picking up the RX360 kit and jumping into the world of custom-watercooling for my next build. I've used a closed-loop before (h70) and I've decided to go with a Rasa Kit seeing as how it's for novices. I only plan on doing a CPU loop for now. It's going to be in an 800D case.

I've got a few questions however:

1. I've read that the kit comes with three 120mm fans. I want to install three more fans in addition and I was wondering if the included fans are sufficient enough to maintain adequate cooling. If not, I'm in the market for fans that push a lot of air, aren't too loud and work perfectly with this radiator. Any suggestions?

2. I'm wondering if the kit includes all the essential parts to set up and maintain the loop. I didn't see that fluid was included with it so is there anything else I should buy in addition?

3. I was reading reviews earlier and this kit apparently doesn't come with instructions. Is there an online guide or a video tutorial showing how to set it up?

4. Not really a question pertaining to the kit itself, but what are the uses of a fan grill besides obviously helping to deter physical contact with the fans? Does it have an effect on the airflow? Should I get three more since I plan on using 6 fans in a push-pull config?

That's pretty much it. I'm really excited about nabbing this kit next month.

Thanks so much in advance.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abatement Yogin*
> 
> Hello. I plan on picking up the RX360 kit and jumping into the world of custom-watercooling for my next build. I've used a closed-loop before (h70) and I've decided to go with a Rasa Kit seeing as how it's for novices. I only plan on doing a CPU loop for now. It's going to be in an 800D case.
> I've got a few questions however:
> 1. I've read that the kit comes with three 120mm fans. I want to install three more fans in addition and I was wondering if the included fans are sufficient enough to maintain adequate cooling. If not, I'm in the market for fans that push a lot of air, aren't too loud and work perfectly with this radiator. Any suggestions?
> 2. I'm wondering if the kit includes all the essential parts to set up and maintain the loop. I didn't see that fluid was included with it so is there anything else I should buy in addition?
> 3. I was reading reviews earlier and this kit apparently doesn't come with instructions. Is there an online guide or a video tutorial showing how to set it up?
> 4. Not really a question pertaining to the kit itself, but what are the uses of a fan grill besides obviously helping to deter physical contact with the fans? Does it have an effect on the airflow? Should I get three more since I plan on using 6 fans in a push-pull config?
> That's pretty much it. I'm really excited about nabbing this kit next month.
> Thanks so much in advance.


1. 360mm of radiator space, even with only 3 fans, is more than enough to cool a CPU.
2. It includes everything you need apart from a liquid to run in the loop. It comes with a kill coil though so if you use that you only have to buy some distilled water for ~$1.
3. I suggest looking at this thread to find guides on how to install a water cooling loop. Any other questions can go to this forum.
4. They lower airflow slightly and help keep a little dust out. Fan filters are much better to use imho.


----------



## Abatement Yogin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> 1. 360mm of radiator space, even with only 3 fans, is more than enough to cool a CPU.
> 2. It includes everything you need apart from a liquid to run in the loop. It comes with a kill coil though so if you use that you only have to buy some distilled water for ~$1.
> 3. I suggest looking at this thread to find guides on how to install a water cooling loop. Any other questions can go to this forum.
> 4. They lower airflow slightly and help keep a little dust out. Fan filters are much better to use imho.


1. Excellent. Are the included fans fine though? Or should I opt for other ones? Generally fans that push a lot of air and aren't really loud.

2. Sounds good. Thanks.

3. The thread is very informative but I was wondering if there's a specific guide for the Rasa kits?

4. I'm going to set the radiator as a top exhaust so filters are out of the question. How about fan shrouds?


----------



## ginger_nuts

@ Abatement Yogin, You do not need masses of air to cool with the RX series.

They have a very low FPI (Fins Per Inch) radiator, so fans running around the 1,000 rpm is great.

And we all now slow spinning fans are quite.


----------



## mironccr345

Here's my RX120, Rasa block and XSPC x20 200 res/pump. I use the rig for folding.


----------



## mandrix

RX240 radiator moved to top of HAF 922 with Phobya fan shrouds and Yate Loons.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Here's my RX120, Rasa block and XSPC x20 200 res/pump. I use the rig for folding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This inspiring me! But in picture missing DDR RAM?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> RX240 radiator moved to top of HAF 922 with Phobya fan shrouds and Yate Loons.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Look sexy!


----------



## MrClown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yeah it's a long thread, I've been following it for a while now and all in all I think that most of the pumps are good but some just seem to be crap from the start. Mine has been running now for 5 months and I've had not a single problem, so I don't understand why some work good and some don't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've currently got my eye on this Res / Pump:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16088/ex-res-371/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Black.html?tl=g30c97s168
> However to save some money I'll get this Pump separately:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13147/ex-pmp-131/Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_-_Single_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s153


That pump doesn't come with the screw ring you need to secure the pump to the res.

Taken from here:
Quote:


> Important note: This product requires the original D5 screw ring to attach the pump to the reservoir (motor only/single editions are not suitable).


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> RX240 radiator moved to top of HAF 922 with Phobya fan shrouds and Yate Loons.


oh ya, i like it.


----------



## RJacobs28

Hi all, just installed my RS240 with Raystorm (AMD) Block. When reading temps, do I look at CPU temperature or VCORE Temperature? BTW, these temps are displayed from Asus Thermal Radar (Sabertooth 990FX Mobo) - can I rely on those to be accurate?


----------



## evil jerry

When I first posted in this thread I had the RS 360 kit in my lanboy air.

I have since moved my watercool system into my Phantom. The hoses have been changed to primochill and sleeved. The RS Radiator i'm happy with it's performance and size, as I feel it fits my build well. You can't see the pump in this pic but the Res/Pump is doing fine just gotta make sure the air is out of the pump or it likes to make noise. Also wanna note that these are the original fans with the grills color matched to my case. Really an awesome watercooling kit for an awesome price.

Let me know what you think?


----------



## Derko1

I finally got my set up running yesterday. As I was filling the reservoir though... there was a noise that kept going on and off as it filled with water. I almost got to the top and was happy the noise was gone, but as I finished filling it up, it came back and didn't go away.

This is exactly what it sounds like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spZJFIbCVcU

Any tips on getting rid of it?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> When I first posted in this thread I had the RS 360 kit in my lanboy air.
> I have since moved my watercool system into my Phantom. The hoses have been changed to primochill and sleeved. The RS Radiator i'm happy with it's performance and size, as I feel it fits my build well. You can't see the pump in this pic but the Res/Pump is doing fine just gotta make sure the air is out of the pump or it likes to make noise. Also wanna note that these are the original fans with the grills color matched to my case. Really an awesome watercooling kit for an awesome price.
> Let me know what you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I looked at the pics in your build thread. As a veteran of the same era as your father I think it would be cool if you could incorporate a small logo from a unit patch, if you know what outfit he was in.
Anyway nice job, I can see you put a lot of heart into it.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> I finally got my set up running yesterday. As I was filling the reservoir though... there was a noise that kept going on and off as it filled with water. I almost got to the top and was happy the noise was gone, but as I finished filling it up, it came back and didn't go away.
> This is exactly what it sounds like:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spZJFIbCVcU
> Any tips on getting rid of it?


The pump noise probably will go away after a bit, mine was noisy for a few hours after my recent rad move. Could try tilting the case back and forth a little, probably got some air still in the loop, even if you can't see it.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> The pump noise probably will go away after a bit, mine was noisy for a few hours after my recent rad move. Could try tilting the case back and forth a little, probably got some air still in the loop, even if you can't see it.


Well I did the install yesterday and left it running overnight. This morning it was still there and I moved the case around back and forth and some how.... IT IS LOUDER now. It's working fine for the most part.

Someone mentioned putting dish soap in there? Is this something I could try? I am guessing it helps to force out the remaining air bubbles in there.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Well I did the install yesterday and left it running overnight. This morning it was still there and I moved the case around back and forth and some how.... IT IS LOUDER now. It's working fine for the most part.
> Someone mentioned putting dish soap in there? Is this something I could try? I am guessing it helps to force out the remaining air bubbles in there.


Personally I found the dish soap only works some times.

Pick up the entire machine and rotate every which way, then do the reverse again.

I mean upside down, front up, front down. Give it hell.

This will make the air travel to the highest point, hopefully outside the pump.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> When I first posted in this thread I had the RS 360 kit in my lanboy air.
> I have since moved my watercool system into my Phantom. The hoses have been changed to primochill and sleeved. The RS Radiator i'm happy with it's performance and size, as I feel it fits my build well. You can't see the pump in this pic but the Res/Pump is doing fine just gotta make sure the air is out of the pump or it likes to make noise. Also wanna note that these are the original fans with the grills color matched to my case. Really an awesome watercooling kit for an awesome price.
> Let me know what you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /spoiler]


looks great, really nice job!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> This inspiring me! But in picture missing DDR RAM?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look sexy!


I dont need ram to fold!! haha, J/K. Thanks by the way!
I was just doing a test fit with the RX120, you can see that the fan cables aren't hooked up either. Here's what it looks like up and running.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Personally I found the dish soap only works some times.
> Pick up the entire machine and rotate every which way, then do the reverse again.
> I mean upside down, front up, front down. Give it hell.
> This will make the air travel to the highest point, hopefully outside the pump.


Nothing... it's so annoying! It sounds like a fish tank.









I tried the soap just now too and it didn't do anything either. What's the easiest way of draining it? Maybe I'll lower the water level to see at what point it stops the noise....


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Nothing... it's so annoying! It sounds like a fish tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the soap just now too and it didn't do anything either. What's the easiest way of draining it? Maybe I'll lower the water level to see at what point it stops the noise....


take advantage of the company's great customer service and just rma it. i really think there is something wrong with the pump. i have to put my ear near my pump (almost touching) to hear it running.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I dont need ram to fold!! haha, J/K. Thanks by the way!
> I was just doing a test fit with the RX120, you can see that the fan cables aren't hooked up either. Here's what it looks like up and running.


this's an amazing LOOKING!







I will get RX120 and everything for my back up mATX rig (CM 341), eventually.

Did I ask you How's temp you got on this loop?


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> take advantage of the company's great customer service and just rma it. i really think there is something wrong with the pump. i have to put my ear near my pump (almost touching) to hear it running.


Well, I drained it and then refilled it. And I just spend the last hour moving it back and forth until the point that there were absolutely no bubbles trickling through. NO NOISE ANYMORE. It makes an ever so slight hum, but it's barely there.

I will keep moving it around to get everything out. I guess the noise comes from it not being completely air free. It's so weird, but the hole has a little rib in the inside which stops the air from completely coming out. Any tips on getting the air completely out?


----------



## Kaneda13

Some new toys arrived for me this morning...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrClown*
> 
> That pump doesn't come with the screw ring you need to secure the pump to the res.
> Taken from here:


Oh well, the only reason I suggested that pump was to save a few bucks and the other brands of res's like it come with the ring.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> Hi all, just installed my RS240 with Raystorm (AMD) Block. When reading temps, do I look at CPU temperature or VCORE Temperature? BTW, these temps are displayed from Asus Thermal Radar (Sabertooth 990FX Mobo) - can I rely on those to be accurate?


Here is the definitive answer for which to read for temps http://www.overclock.net/t/1128821/amd-temp-information-and-guide and yes the Asus utility is what most use for reading temps. In the link it states that CoreTemp is recommended to be used to compare other utilities against it and from what I've learned the Asus utilities (on my CHIV it's Asus PC Probe II) show the same readings. Personally I use HWMonitor Pro as it too reads the same (varies slightly with PSU voltages) plus records minimum and maximum for all readings. Very useful when testing.


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> I looked at the pics in your build thread. As a veteran of the same era as your father I think it would be cool if you could incorporate a small logo from a unit patch, if you know what outfit he was in.
> Anyway nice job, I can see you put a lot of heart into it.


Yeah unfortunately I'm still doing some research as I want it to be authentic. I'm having a hard time finding his military records as it's been so long. Thank you for the feedback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> looks great, really nice job!


Thank you and great name, my old handle on some old forums was Kaneda before i changed it to just evil jerry


----------



## Derko1

Hello! I am not getting bad temps with my loop but i think i may have set it up wrong. I have the reservoir/pump>to CPU block>to radiator>to reservoir/pump.... was i supposed to go from reservoir/pump>to radiator>to CPU block>back to reservoir/pump?


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Hello! I am not getting bad temps with my loop but i think i may have set it up wrong. I have the reservoir/pump>to CPU block>to radiator>to reservoir/pump.... was i supposed to go from reservoir/pump>to radiator>to CPU block>back to reservoir/pump?


Loop order doesn't really matter, might need to reseat the CPU block.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> Loop order doesn't really matter, might need to reseat the CPU block.


ok, if it doesn't matter then that's fine. I'm getting 30-33C Idle and 60C under load. Before it was 45C-49C idle and 85C load...









Crappy cell phone pic!


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> ok, if it doesn't matter then that's fine. I'm getting 30-33C Idle and 60C under load. Before it was 45C-49C idle and 85C load...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crappy cell phone pic!


Did you end up reseating it to get those lower temps or? You should also be able to cool those 6870's with a 360 rad as well.


----------



## Abatement Yogin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> @ Abatement Yogin, You do not need masses of air to cool with the RX series.
> They have a very low FPI (Fins Per Inch) radiator, so fans running around the 1,000 rpm is great.
> And we all now slow spinning fans are quite.


Sounds good, but I'm planning to use 1850rpm fans to compliment the radiator. Would the cooling performance be substantial or negligible in comparison to the 1,000 rpm?

Also I was looking at the RX360 Extreme kit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ And noticed that it had the raystorm block and a MCP655 pump. My main question is should I shell out additional cash for the extreme kit? I've heard that the raystorm block performs significantly better.

This will cool a i7 3770k and I've heard that it's hotter than the SB counterpart.

Thanks a lot for the input and help.


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> ok, if it doesn't matter then that's fine. I'm getting 30-33C Idle and 60C under load. Before it was 45C-49C idle and 85C load...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crappy cell phone pic!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like the radiator setup off the rear, you executed that very cleanly!!


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> I like the radiator setup off the rear, you executed that very cleanly!!


Thank you! Even though the fans I put on the wrong side... I wanted the cables to feed from the other side... and I also was short on another cable that goes to the mobo for the crossfire set up... so I gotta fix that up still.

Also, I will be doing a 240 rad up top and adding the 6870s to the loop, but I am strapped for extra spending cash at the moment. I bought the kit back in February and have been staring at it for like 3 months. So I just went a head and installed it. I'll get the cards in later in the summer though.

And I did not reseat, I meant to say originally that I wasn't having temperature issues, but that I was concerned in the order I had the loop.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abatement Yogin*
> 
> Sounds good, but I'm planning to use 1850rpm fans to compliment the radiator. Would the cooling performance be substantial or negligible in comparison to the 1,000 rpm?
> Also I was looking at the RX360 Extreme kit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ And noticed that it had the raystorm block and a MCP655 pump. My main question is should I shell out additional cash for the extreme kit? I've heard that the raystorm block performs significantly better.
> This will cool a i7 3770k and I've heard that it's hotter than the SB counterpart.
> Thanks a lot for the input and help.


The difference in performance due to the fans is going to be very minimal. It is just the noise factor that will be most noticeable.

I would personally get the extreme, because it leaves room for expansion in the future.

Plus I have read that when you start uping the ante on the Ivy Bridge's they start to heat up a fear bit.









Yes the Raystorm is the best XSPC performing block, for the moment.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> When I first posted in this thread I had the RS 360 kit in my lanboy air.
> I have since moved my watercool system into my Phantom. The hoses have been changed to primochill and sleeved. The RS Radiator i'm happy with it's performance and size, as I feel it fits my build well. You can't see the pump in this pic but the Res/Pump is doing fine just gotta make sure the air is out of the pump or it likes to make noise. Also wanna note that these are the original fans with the grills color matched to my case. Really an awesome watercooling kit for an awesome price.
> 
> 
> *Let me know what you think*?










sayings *EPIC*!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> this's an amazing LOOKING!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will get RX120 and everything for my back up mATX rig (CM 341), eventually.
> Did I ask you How's temp you got on this loop?


The temps are pretty good with an OC FX8120 @3.8GHz.. Folding SMP im getting about 38c on all cores. If I fold SMP and the 460's, the temp rises to 42~ depending on the ambient temp. in my office. I've brought the OC to 4.2 and it jumps to 44c~ folding SMP only. But with the GPU's it gets to 47-48c~ The pump/res isn't the best as it only moves 200lph. But most people wont see those temp while gaming.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Sorry its taken a while, but this is a pic of one of the flushes from my XSPC Rads. I ended up flushing around 15 times or so, several flushes came out looking like this.



See all the green crap in the bottom, thats why its important to flush before use, some people may find nothing, however some such as myself found loads of this. Until you flush you won't know. I didn't first time round with my 360 rad and it started to gunk up my Rasa block, so imho its always best to give it a quick flush before use, its not like it takes much effort


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Sorry its taken a while, but this is a pic of one of the flushes from my XSPC Rads. I ended up flushing around 15 times or so, several flushes came out looking like this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See all the green crap in the bottom, thats why its important to flush before use, some people may find nothing, however some such as myself found loads of this. Until you flush you won't know. I didn't first time round with my 360 rad and it started to gunk up my Rasa block, so imho its always best to give it a quick flush before use, its not like it takes much effort


I was one not to flush, and this ended up in my Res.







Luckily

But when I re do my loop with a new EX240, and 2x uni-GPU blocks, will diffidently be flushing.

Did you do the diluted vinegar flush?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I was one not to flush, and this ended up in my Res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily
> But when I re do my loop with a new EX240, and 2x uni-GPU blocks, will diffidently be flushing.
> Did you do the diluted vinegar flush?


No didn't use vinegar, just warm tap water. After I'd had enough and was happy that I'd gotten the vast majority of that flux out I then used DI to flush out the normal tap water, flushed around 5 times with DI to clear it all.

Not sure why some people say you don't need to flush, it seems hit and miss with XSPC rads, don't know about other brands, but with XSPC you may get one with nowt in or one thats packed with crap lol


----------



## Matt-Matt

Anyone here got a kit on a 3570k?
Would it be worth it on a reatively bad i5 3570k? I'm looking at the RS360 also, as it's only $10 more then the RS240.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Anyone here got a kit on a 3570k?
> Would it be worth it on a reatively bad i5 3570k? I'm looking at the RS360 also, as it's only $10 more then the RS240.


Go the RS360 considering it is only $10 more.

Don't have any experience with Intel, but it is bound to tame it.

Being Australian try Gammod some times prices are cheaper. But he is a very reliable source for water cooling info and parts.


----------



## Kaneda13

Got my new Rad up and in, leak checked and (hopefully) fully bled. i'll post some temp runs once everything gets seated in. My current flow order is:

Res/Pump -> CPU -> GPU -> EX120 -> RS240

Not much air going through the EX120 though, since it only has a case fan scythe on it, so i'll be upgrading that one first. Still scouring the web for review on the new corsair high static pressure fans.


----------



## Ganf

I didn't flush my RX360 rad when I got it solely because I knew I was going to be changing the tubing in a week, and I figured that running the pump on a simple loop for a week would do more to blast crap out of the rad than I could with a bunch of shaking.

I was right, the stock tubing that came with my kit clouded up instantly and there was plenty of trash collecting in the resevoir, even though the water stayed crystal clear. Not a single piece of detritus to be seen in the resevoir after a week now that I've pulled everything apart, cleaned it, changed the tubing, done a normal flush just to make sure, and put it back together. I think it was worth the trouble myself, I anticipate it staying this clean for a very long time.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Got my new Rad up and in, leak checked and (hopefully) fully bled. i'll post some temp runs once everything gets seated in. My current flow order is:
> Res/Pump -> CPU -> GPU -> EX120 -> RS240


Looks good.


----------



## Derko1

I FINALLY got my set up fully up and running. Had some issues with fans breaking down... noisy pump, a bad barb that no matter how tight it was, it would leak. I also had the rad mounted in the back and was getting 20C more than now that I have mounted up top. It took me 2 days of really working on it to get it to what I think made it worth it.

I have bought a 120mm rad for when I add my 2 vid cards to the loop. I can't wait!









What it ended up looking like... what do you guys think?



I was really worried about the cables looking like a mess having it up here, instead of feeding the cables through the PCI ports... but it worked out alright.



And for the results... this is the final temps after having Prime running for 30 minutes, blend tests, every 3 minutes and using 6gigs of my ram.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Go the RS360 considering it is only $10 more.
> Don't have any experience with Intel, but it is bound to tame it.
> Being Australian try Gammod some times prices are cheaper. But he is a very reliable source for water cooling info and parts.


Thanks, i'll have a look around!
I might end up getting it from Gamods or w/e because it's a bit more but the money will be in my paypal!








I might still go with the double as I'll be cooling just the CPU, and it'd be easier to fit everything in. (I only have 3x front 5.25 bays left). - Just enough for the pump/res

As for that, would the Rasa RS240 kit just with a EX240 be better? I also like the idea of the single rad in the bottom + the dual rad in the top like below!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*


That and $20 or so is $20 saved, as my fan controller is dead and it's going to cost more to RMA it then buying a new one








I'll know my exact budget tomorrow night, I've got $184 in bids right now without shipping. I need $100 for RAM though..


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Added another rad to my Rasa kit...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> As for that, would the Rasa RS240 kit just with a EX240 be better? I also like the idea of the single rad in the bottom + the dual rad in the top like below!


I believe a RS240 + EX240 would be very close if not slightly better then a single EX/RX/RS 360.

It depends how soon you would look at getting the second rad.

Personally if the second one is planned for before summer get the RS240 kit, then a second if wanted (or needed).

If the second is planned during or after summer get the EX240 kit. Come summer it is nice having plenty of head room in cooling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> Added another rad to my Rasa kit...


That is some serious fans you have, they look like Excalibur's, which are not cheap or poor fans.

Do you plan on cooling your GPU as well?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I believe a RS240 + EX240 would be very close if not slightly better then a single EX/RX/RS 360.
> It depends how soon you would look at getting the second rad.


I'd be getting and sitting on a single rad, what i meant was that i'd be getting the RS240 kit with an EX rad.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I see what you are saying.

Sorry









Why not get the EX 240 Kit ? The kit comes with the Raystorm block as well.

Oh, and if you become a member at OCAU. You will also get a discount


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see what you are saying.
> Sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not get the EX 240 Kit ? The kit comes with the Raystorm block as well.
> Oh, and if you become a member at OCAU. You will also get a discount


Ah nice!








I've got an account.. Linked to my old school email and guess what? I've forgotten the password....









EDIT: That's the kit i was talking about! If you read it you'll notice that it comes with the EX (replaced from the RS). It's essentially the RS240 kit just with a better rad!









These W/C setups are easy to get confused with









EDIT: Money is in my paypal, which in return is no discount.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> I FINALLY got my set up fully up and running. Had some issues with fans breaking down... noisy pump, a bad barb that no matter how tight it was, it would leak. I also had the rad mounted in the back and was getting 20C more than now that I have mounted up top. It took me 2 days of really working on it to get it to what I think made it worth it.
> I have bought a 120mm rad for when I add my 2 vid cards to the loop. I can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What it ended up looking like... what do you guys think?
> 
> I was really worried about the cables looking like a mess having it up here, instead of feeding the cables through the PCI ports... but it worked out alright.
> 
> And for the results... this is the final temps after having Prime running for 30 minutes, blend tests, every 3 minutes and using 6gigs of my ram.
> 
> your temps are excellent based on your oc. i really think that it is easier for the pump (depending on the pump) to move the liquid horizontally through the rad. i am glad you got it to work after all the issues you went through and it looks great, too.
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Got my new Rad up and in, leak checked and (hopefully) fully bled. i'll post some temp runs once everything gets seated in. My current flow order is:
> Res/Pump -> CPU -> GPU -> EX120 -> RS240
> Not much air going through the EX120 though, since it only has a case fan scythe on it, so i'll be upgrading that one first. Still scouring the web for review on the new corsair high static pressure fans.


kaneda, if you don't end up satisfied with your temps you can try this loop . . .



just a suggestion.


----------



## Matt26LFC

^^ Pointless, loop order changes almost nothing. It takes a lot of heat energy to warm up the water by even 1 Degree, putting rads inbetween each block achieves virtually nothing in terms of temps (especially in this instance) but creates a nice mess of tubing everywhere.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> ^^ Pointless, loop order changes almost nothing. It takes a lot of heat energy to warm up the water by even 1 Degree, putting rads inbetween each block achieves virtually nothing in terms of temps (especially in this instance) but creates a nice mess of tubing everywhere.


Interesting to know..


----------



## macarule

^ What he said







(Matt26LFC)


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> ^^ Pointless, loop order changes almost nothing. It takes a lot of heat energy to warm up the water by even 1 Degree, putting rads inbetween each block achieves virtually nothing in terms of temps (especially in this instance) but creates a nice mess of tubing everywhere.


yeah, i went with this routing specifically because it was the cleanest/shortest routing of all the tubing.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Niiiiiiccccccccccce!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Got my new Rad up and in, leak checked and (hopefully) fully bled. i'll post some temp runs once everything gets seated in. My current flow order is:
> Res/Pump -> CPU -> GPU -> EX120 -> RS240
> Not much air going through the EX120 though, since it only has a case fan scythe on it, so i'll be upgrading that one first. Still scouring the web for review on the new corsair high static pressure fans.





Looking good! What did you use for the front fan mod?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good! What did you use for the front fan mod?


I'm guessing your asking about what's between the metal mess and the plastic cover, it's a thin piece of cardboard spray painted flat black.


----------



## Abatement Yogin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The difference in performance due to the fans is going to be very minimal. It is just the noise factor that will be most noticeable.
> I would personally get the extreme, because it leaves room for expansion in the future.
> Plus I have read that when you start uping the ante on the Ivy Bridge's they start to heat up a fear bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes the Raystorm is the best XSPC performing block, for the moment.


Alright, another thing. Say I want to add two GTX 680's to the loop in the upcoming months.

Would the Extreme kit be able to handle it without needing to purchase an additional rad or pump?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> I FINALLY got my set up fully up and running. Had some issues with fans breaking down... noisy pump, a bad barb that no matter how tight it was, it would leak. I also had the rad mounted in the back and was getting 20C more than now that I have mounted up top. It took me 2 days of really working on it to get it to what I think made it worth it.
> I have bought a 120mm rad for when I add my 2 vid cards to the loop. I can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What it ended up looking like... what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really worried about the cables looking like a mess having it up here, instead of feeding the cables through the PCI ports... but it worked out alright.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the results... this is the final temps after having Prime running for 30 minutes, blend tests, every 3 minutes and using 6gigs of my ram.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good. I like having my RX240 up top, gives me plenty of room inside, and as much as I tear stuff down I didn't want mine hanging off the back obscuring the cables.
I was wondering if you were going to try and mod the top to lay it down, I see you didn't.


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That is some serious fans you have, they look like Excalibur's, which are not cheap or poor fans.
> Do you plan on cooling your GPU as well?


Excalibur fans indeed. ~85 CFM is no joke and I love it.









Eventually I would like to WC my GPU, although not the current one. When I do get to that point though I'll want another rad and a stronger pump.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Looks good. I like having my RX240 up top, gives me plenty of room inside, and as much as I tear stuff down I didn't want mine hanging off the back obscuring the cables.
> I was wondering if you were going to try and mod the top to lay it down, I see you didn't.


I went looking for a "step drill" yesterday and I don't think I'd ever use the drill again after using for the case. At $50 bucks and another box to have around the house... I don't know if it's worth it.

I actually have the computer set up as a HTPC... so it's off to the side and you can't really even see it.

Here's a pic of the room... it replaced the spot where the lamp is on the right side of the room by the window.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> ^^ Pointless, loop order changes almost nothing. It takes a lot of heat energy to warm up the water by even 1 Degree, putting rads inbetween each block achieves virtually nothing in terms of temps (especially in this instance) but creates a nice mess of tubing everywhere.


Actually your ambient temps have allot to do with it too! During the summer here in Tucson Arizona the loop order can make a difference, if I change the order from going from the pump res to the CPU block first to the Rad first it can drop my temps by about 3 - 4 C. But when my ambient temps are in the 80F / 26C area means that my water starting temps are higher. In the winter when I can keep my ambient temps far lower I found that my loop order didn't mean much, maybe a 1C difference at most. Of course this has just been my experience and is not based on anything else.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abatement Yogin*
> 
> Alright, another thing. Say I want to add two GTX 680's to the loop in the upcoming months.
> Would the Extreme kit be able to handle it without needing to purchase an additional rad or pump?


Yes you should be able.









The general consensus is 120mm of rad. per block. And the pump should be good.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Actually your ambient temps have allot to do with it too! During the summer here in Tucson Arizona the loop order can make a difference, if I change the order from going from the pump res to the CPU block first to the Rad first it can drop my temps by about 3 - 4 C. But when my ambient temps are in the 80F / 26C area means that my water starting temps are higher. In the winter when I can keep my ambient temps far lower I found that my loop order didn't mean much, maybe a 1C difference at most. Of course this has just been my experience and is not based on anything else.


OK I know ambient's directly impact your temps however I'm not sure I get what's happening here.

Are you saying that when its a hot day, 26C, and your water temps are going to be about 26C (from boot I guess) that your rad is knocking 3-4C off the water temp before it hits the CPU?

Wouldn't that mean you making your water temperature 3-4C below the rooms ambient? Which we know isn't doable using conventional watercooling!?

Also a radiator dissipating 3-4C at 1gpm is the equivalent to 750w-1000w. When I had temperature sensors on my inlet and outlets I rarely saw a difference of 2C between the two, let alone 3-4.

Not saying your wrong, I'm still a noob when it comes to WC and I don't really know anything about Physics so I certainly don't know more than the next man, but my head just can't make sense of what's happening here lol

Hopefully someone who knows more about this kind of thing will notice these posts and be able to help out here


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> I went looking for a "step drill" yesterday and I don't think I'd ever use the drill again after using for the case. At $50 bucks and another box to have around the house... I don't know if it's worth it.
> I actually have the computer set up as a HTPC... so it's off to the side and you can't really even see it.
> Here's a pic of the room... it replaced the spot where the lamp is on the right side of the room by the window.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I started to buy a step drill until I saw the price. At Lowes I found a thin 7/8" hole saw compatible with cutting thin metal for around $17. Lowes also had some rubber grommets 1 1/8" OD / 5/8" ID that worked for my tubing and the 7/8" hole was just right.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> I started to buy a step drill until I saw the price. At Lowes I found a thin 7/8" hole saw compatible with cutting thin metal for around $17. Lowes also had some rubber grommets 1 1/8" OD / 5/8" ID that worked for my tubing and the 7/8" hole was just right.


Wow that's a much better price! Any chance you have the model number on that?

Now... has anyone seen an HAF-922 with a 360 rad up top and tubes feeding through the top? I just measured it out and it will not fit the 360. The tubes would end up at the edge of the corner. So good thing I didn't buy the drill at the time... since it doesn't seem possible with my case.


----------



## Ganf

Step drills last forevar though. Pointless, if you are only modding a PC, but if you do other tinkerstuff, the awesome never ends with them. They're not just good for sheet metal either. Wood, plastic, 1/4 inch steel, doesn't matter.


----------



## Blaze0303

Does anyone know of any US webstores that have the Rasa 750 RS240 in stock?


----------



## zander89

Hye guys just thought i would add my comp into the mix. I have an Rasa 750 RS360 Kit. I have replaced the tubing with masterkleer clear blue UV ( although it wont be staying clear for long! Plasticizer is already leaking out of the tubing and causing it to go cloudy! grrrr) Im waiting on phobya to send me some flexilight samples but they are taking their time

Here are a few pics



















The first two were taken when i have my gtx 480 SOC in my comp. As you can see the tubing is all nice and clear!










a week on and my new gigabyte gtx 670 windforce goes in. As you can see the tubing has already clouded

This is all housed in a corsair 800d. Ill have some more pics inc very soon


----------



## Matt26LFC

^^ Nice build matey, its shame about the tubing, I had that with my clear tubing! Very annoying isn't it!

Any plans to get that 670 under water since you have a triple rad up there


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> Hye guys just thought i would add my comp into the mix. I have an Rasa 750 RS360 Kit. I have replaced the tubing with masterkleer clear blue UV ( although it wont be staying clear for long! Plasticizer is already leaking out of the tubing and causing it to go cloudy! grrrr) Im waiting on phobya to send me some flexilight samples but they are taking their time
> Here are a few pics
> The first two were taken when i have my gtx 480 SOC in my comp. As you can see the tubing is all nice and clear!
> a week on and my new gigabyte gtx 670 windforce goes in. As you can see the tubing has already clouded
> This is all housed in a corsair 800d. Ill have some more pics inc very soon


What was the stock tubing like?


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> What was the stock tubing like?


funny you mention it







three weeks this is what is looked like ( when i was swapping it out for the masterkleer)










also @ matt yer the 670 is going to go under water ( hopefully before i46 in august.). I'm planning on modding the bottom hdd bay ( basically ripping it out) and shoving a 240 rad in there too. Also going to whack a few 1850 Gentle Typhoons on the 360 and 240. I'm just trying to decide what to do with my tubing.

I want to have clear tubing that Glows blue under UV light. But as far as i am aware Tygon are the only ones do Plasticizer free tubing. But i doubt they do a version that is clear UV Blue. Sort of seems that all clear tubing is doomed. Anyone know of any ways you can slow the leeching of Plasticizer? Like using killcoil instead of say Biocide? Any suggestions would be hot. Mine started leeching within a week


----------



## macarule

The reason the tubing dis colors is because its PVC the only good thing about it is there is no Plasticides to clog up anything


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> The reason the tubing dis colors is because its PVC the only good thing about it is there is no Plasticides to clog up anything


im a bit confused by that post. I swear the reason it discoloured its because is because it does have Plasticizer in it. The issue for me is that i want clear tubing what is blue under UV light but that doesn't have Plasticizer in it. I'm not sure such a product exists. Trying to figure out a way around it/at least postpone the leeching process by a while so i can have clear tubing for at least a few months, rather than just 1 week.

also on a sidenote, when do i get the nifty little Rasa owners tag on my sig? Does a moderator have to accept it then it appears? Or do i have to do something to add it to my tag? Edit oh dw found it


----------



## macarule

Ive been told different







, im looking into some Black Primochill tubing...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> im a bit confused by that post. I swear the reason it discoloured its because is because it does have Plasticizer in it. The issue for me is that i want clear tubing what is blue under UV light but that doesn't have Plasticizer in it. I'm not sure such a product exists. Trying to figure out a way around it/at least postpone the leeching process by a while so i can have clear tubing for at least a few months, rather than just 1 week.
> also on a sidenote, when do i get the nifty little Rasa owners tag on my sig? Does a moderator have to accept it then it appears? Or do i have to do something to add it to my tag?


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Ive been told different
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , im looking into some Black Primochill tubing...


well ultimately if you are using opaque tubing it doesnt really matter, the issue lies with those who want clear tubing, the effect is being ruined. I might even get some clear tygon tubing and add some Mayhem clear UV dye to it ( i have a bottle kicking about) . That might solve the problem







. But the pricing on the plasticizer free tubing from tygon is insanely expensive.

Edit: having read up a little apparently primochill clear tubing tends to fair better in relation to leeching. i might go with their blue uv tubing though. ( here ). But again the results are very mixed. the mayhem UC blue dye doesnt seem to be great tbh it terms of how it reacts to UV.


----------



## macarule

I was thinking about getting that over black but i dont know if it would be too much blue in my system or not


----------



## mandrix

Wow. How does the XSPC high flex tubing hold up? I've got the UV blue in my rig for about a week now. Seems to look OK so far.....


----------



## macarule

Apparently XSPC has high plasticisers from what ive been told... just see how it goes


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> Added another rad to my Rasa kit...


Just curious... but is there any benefit to adding another res in my set up as he did? I am only cooling my CPU ATM... I have a 360rad and bought a 120 to add in when I cool the GPUs also.

I figure I would add the 120 rad when I get the GPU blocks. Any difference in adding it in there now?


----------



## zander89

hmmmm it will probs give you better load temps, but not by a huge amount. Also remember the 750 pump is pretty cheap. Max i would add is 1 GPU block and 1 240 rad. Make sure your rez and blocks are low restriction as well otherwise your flow rate might get messed up


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Wow that's a much better price! Any chance you have the model number on that?
> Now... has anyone seen an HAF-922 with a 360 rad up top and tubes feeding through the top? I just measured it out and it will not fit the 360. The tubes would end up at the edge of the corner. So good thing I didn't buy the drill at the time... since it doesn't seem possible with my case.


mmmm. I just found it in the tool section where the hole cutters are. On the packaging it says it's suitable for metal. That's all I got right now. Remember though that grommets that fit a 7/8" hole usually have a 5/8" hole from what I've seen, so 5/8" would be the max OD of the tubing with no wiggle room at all.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Just curious... but is there any benefit to adding another res in my set up as he did? I am only cooling my CPU ATM... I have a 360rad and bought a 120 to add in when I cool the GPUs also.
> I figure I would add the 120 rad when I get the GPU blocks. Any difference in adding it in there now?


To be honest I don't see adding another rad is going to do anything significant in the way of temps at all, a 360 on a CPU alone is already overkill. I think most people will add a 120 rad just because they can really. I could pop one in my Switch 810 alongside my RX360 and RX240 and I'd expect temps to be pretty much the same as they are.

However I believe you already have a 120 in your possession, so in the case of curiosity why not add it and see what happens. Just make sure you test recording your room ambient's for each test.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> hmmmm it will probs give you better load temps, but not by a huge amount. Also remember the 750 pump is pretty cheap. Max i would add is 1 GPU block and 1 240 rad. Make sure your rez and blocks are low restriction as well otherwise your flow rate might get messed up


The pump in those kits is stronger than you think, I'm running 3 blocks and 2 rads, not sure how much tubing, length wise, and only now am I considering replacing it for something better.

OP will be fine with 2 Blocks and 2 rads, rads also offer almost most nothing in restriction.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> When I first posted in this thread I had the RS 360 kit in my lanboy air.
> I have since moved my watercool system into my Phantom. The hoses have been changed to primochill and sleeved. The RS Radiator i'm happy with it's performance and size, as I feel it fits my build well. You can't see the pump in this pic but the Res/Pump is doing fine just gotta make sure the air is out of the pump or it likes to make noise. Also wanna note that these are the original fans with the grills color matched to my case. Really an awesome watercooling kit for an awesome price.
> Let me know what you think?


AWESOME


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> To be honest I don't see adding another rad is going to do anything significant in the way of temps at all, a 360 on a CPU alone is already overkill. I think most people will add a 120 rad just because they can really. I could pop one in my Switch 810 alongside my RX360 and RX240 and I'd expect temps to be pretty much the same as they are.
> However I believe you already have a 120 in your possession, so in the case of curiosity why not add it and see what happens. Just make sure you test recording your room ambient's for each test.
> The pump in those kits is stronger than you think, I'm running 3 blocks and 2 rads, not sure how much tubing, length wise, and only now am I considering replacing it for something better.
> OP will be fine with 2 Blocks and 2 rads, rads also offer almost most nothing in restriction.


I have the pump too im just saying its powerful but cheap. How long have you been running that setup with 3 blocks + 2 rads? You know what your flow rate is at at the moment?


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> To be honest I don't see adding another rad is going to do anything significant in the way of temps at all, a 360 on a CPU alone is already overkill. I think most people will add a 120 rad just because they can really. I could pop one in my Switch 810 alongside my RX360 and RX240 and I'd expect temps to be pretty much the same as they are.
> However I believe you already have a 120 in your possession, so in the case of curiosity why not add it and see what happens. Just make sure you test recording your room ambient's for each test.


I guess that makes sense. I'll give it try over the weekend and see if there's any change.

Another question! I keep hearing about the 1k rpm suggested for the XSPC rads... is there any place where I can read up on that? I tried testing for it and there really seems to be no difference at all.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> OK I know ambient's directly impact your temps however I'm not sure I get what's happening here.
> Are you saying that when its a hot day, 26C, and your water temps are going to be about 26C (from boot I guess) that your rad is knocking 3-4C off the water temp before it hits the CPU?
> Wouldn't that mean you making your water temperature 3-4C below the rooms ambient? Which we know isn't doable using conventional watercooling!?
> Also a radiator dissipating 3-4C at 1gpm is the equivalent to 750w-1000w. When I had temperature sensors on my inlet and outlets I rarely saw a difference of 2C between the two, let alone 3-4.
> Not saying your wrong, I'm still a noob when it comes to WC and I don't really know anything about Physics so I certainly don't know more than the next man, but my head just can't make sense of what's happening here lol
> Hopefully someone who knows more about this kind of thing will notice these posts and be able to help out here


No what I was saying is that when it's hot here that changing the order of my loop does affect my final core temps by about 3 - 4 C!
If I run my loop Res/Pump --->CPU Block --->Rad --->back to Res I get higher temps in the summer then if I run my loop Res/Pump --->Rad --->CPU Block --->Res, But in the Winter or what we call winter here when I can leave all the windows open and keep the house at or below 60 F then the loop order doesn't seem to matter as much. My guess would be that when the ambient temp is higher giving the water the chance to release as much heat as possible and get as close to ambient as possible right before it goes into the block helps. Now I'm also talking about Core Temps not water temps, so I'm referring to temp read by the Bios from the Processor itself. Since I don't have any actual water temp sensors in my loop I can't tell you what if any difference changing the loop order would make to water temp. I honestly have never really cared to much about monitoring anything beyond core temp the lower I can get / keep that number the better, I've always used CoreTemp and HWmonitor to gather my temp readings. Now with that said I do know that Core Temps are different than the actual CPU temp which is usually a bit higher than the core temp, I do plan to add some water temp sensors to my loop/loops in the future and I will look into this more at that point for now I just know that it seems to help to have the Rad right before my block in my loop order.


----------



## Xraze

Guys, does the tubing really turn brown after a couple weeks? I don't know if I should put distilled in it. Maybe I should just use colored coolant so it won't look so bad.


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> Guys, does the tubing really turn brown after a couple weeks? I don't know if I should put distilled in it. Maybe I should just use colored coolant so it won't look so bad.


Avoid coloured coolant at all costs. Unless you do it yourself. If you do do it yourself mayhem is the dye that will cause least problems/ he is one of the only producers of dye who is totally honest about its effects

Generally dyes which are really vibrant add loads of additives to the water which will not only decrease performance but will end up gunking up you loop. So generally rule of thumb is stay clear unless you absolutely have to

Better to go with opaque coloured/ Uv tubing.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> Guys, does the tubing really turn brown after a couple weeks? I don't know if I should put distilled in it. Maybe I should just use colored coolant so it won't look so bad.


colored tubing with distilled water and a little pt nuke is the way to go.


----------



## Xraze

I want some red tubing then that will fit my PC, anyone have any suggestions of good looking red tubing that fits the kit?


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> I want some red tubing then that will fit my PC, anyone have any suggestions of good looking red tubing that fits the kit?


well the barbs that come with it are 1/2" if im not mistaken. So any 7/16 tubing will do. Seems pretty much everything is leeching plasticizer so just choose what you think looks best.


----------



## Xraze

I actually think clear tubing is what I want, anyway. Do you think this tubing is fine? XSPC 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD (11-16mm) High Flex Tubing : Clear I'm worried that because it's from XSPC it will turn brown but they seem better than the normal tubing that comes with the kit.


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> I actually think clear tubing is what I want, anyway. Do you think this tubing is fine? XSPC 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD (11-16mm) High Flex Tubing : Clear I'm worried that because it's from XSPC it will turn brown but they seem better than the normal tubing that comes with the kit.


pretty much every clear tubing nowadays leeches to my knowlage apart from Tygon® Plasticizer Free Tubing, buts its as expensive as hell. Best to go with something opaque


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> I actually think clear tubing is what I want, anyway. Do you think this tubing is fine? XSPC 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD (11-16mm) High Flex Tubing : Clear I'm worried that because it's from XSPC it will turn brown but they seem better than the normal tubing that comes with the kit.


check out sidewindercomputers, they sell lots of different tubing, some of it medical grade that shouldn't leech at all.


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> check out sidewindercomputers, they sell lots of different tubing, some of it medical grade that shouldn't leech at all.


anything like that for the uk?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> anything like that for the uk?


not sure, sorry. he's local to me, and i buy almost all of my stuff from him. still, check out his site, and if you see something you like, see if he'll ship international.


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> not sure, sorry. he's local to me, and i buy almost all of my stuff from him. still, check out his site, and if you see something you like, see if he'll ship international.


Cheers thanks for that. Would just be nice to have some clear tubing that doesn't leech. Even if i have to put some dye in it


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> Cheers thanks for that. Would just be nice to have some clear tubing that doesn't leech. Even if i have to put some dye in it


Definitely check him out, if he doesn't ship internationally, drop me a msg and maybe I can help it along it'd way.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Interesting, *however I don't think I'd really want to be one of the first to get the new pump since with their current pumps you never really know if you'll get a good one or not* ! I do like the looks of the new Res though and will probably be upgrading my system to include it in the future and I look forward to some reviews of their new pump


That's because their current pumps are made by them. These are Laing D5's, just re-branded. They are widely considered one of the best pumps to ever be produced. Here is a link to a pics of it installed in the new bay res.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.307299156023473.73770.186277998125590&type=1


----------



## zander89

are they including that in all their new kits? Its going to cost so much more for that pump rez combo though! d5s are usually £60-80, the whole rez pump combo Rasa 750 is £65


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zander89*
> 
> are they including that in all their new kits? Its going to cost so much more for that pump rez combo though! d5s are usually £60-80, the whole rez pump combo Rasa 750 is £65


I believe they will be. I think they know how much the other res/pump combo sucks, so my guess is they will be offering a Raystorm/EX/D5/new res combo. Hopefully with the high flex tubing and black chrome compression fittings, black fan grills and black sleeved fans.


----------



## zander89

the new kits are going to cost a fortune though







. The appeal of them is that they are a good intro starter kit that should last you when you add a few more bits to your loop. They should keep the older cheaper ones an option too and these just an upgraded one.


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> AWESOME


Thank you. I wish i could keep up with this thread. I'm active member of the site too. It is great though as I still love my RS360 setup. I'm adding another RS120 Rad to my setup soon.


----------



## hyrule4927

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> only the first 120mm fan hole lined up (closest to the barbs). i had to modify the next and create another for the third. a 240 would have suffice but it was not available at the time. the temps look better than this setup definitely . . .


Gotcha, so even a 240 would require drilling some new holes?


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyrule4927*
> 
> Gotcha, so even a 240 would require drilling some new holes?


i'm not sure about the 240. i would assume you have to make changes but not much. the openings for the fans on top of the case are spaced farther apart than that of the rad. since the case is cheap i went ahead modified it without concern of losing it if i screwed up.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Step drills last forevar though. Pointless, if you are only modding a PC, but if you do other tinkerstuff, the awesome never ends with them. They're not just good for sheet metal either. Wood, plastic, 1/4 inch steel, doesn't matter.


Actually found better prices for step drills on Newegg Marketplace. Much cheaper than Lowes. FYI for you case modders.


----------



## Bloodbath

Is anyone in here using the RS240 kit in a Corsair 600T? If so how much clearance do you have at the top and do you have your fans mounted at the top of the rad or underneath like everyone else? If so are they as effective in this configuration? sorry about all the questions but I'm seriously considering this kit and my old H80 is just not cutting it anymore.If anyone has advice or experience with this system configuration please could you reply or PM me. thanks all in advance.







sorry more questions how do you control the fan speed and pump flow or is that controlled by the cpu fan header or can you manually crank it up?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloodbath*
> 
> Is anyone in here using the RS240 kit in a Corsair 600T? If so how much clearance do you have at the top and do you have your fans mounted at the top of the rad or underneath like everyone else? If so are they as effective in this configuration? sorry about all the questions but I'm seriously considering this kit and my old H80 is just not cutting it anymore.If anyone has advice or experience with this system configuration please could you reply or PM me. thanks all in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry more questions how do you control the fan speed and pump flow or is that controlled by the cpu fan header or can you manually crank it up?


The fans can run off mobo header or fan controller. The pump will just plug into a 4 pin socket, no need to control the speed.
Can't help about the 600T.


----------



## Derko1

Quick question guys! I am seeing that my core temps are slightly off each other. The Core 0 and 1 are at idle, around 35-37 while Core 2 and 3 are around 30-32. Is this normal? I'm guessing the first two cores get more use than the other two and maybe that's why the difference in temp?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Quick question guys! I am seeing that my core temps are slightly off each other. The Core 0 and 1 are at idle, around 35-37 while Core 2 and 3 are around 30-32. Is this normal? I'm guessing the first two cores get more use than the other two and maybe that's why the difference in temp?


yes, this is normal. this is caused by minor differences in manufacturing and difference in the temp sensors themselves. on my i7, i have 2 cores that are always the same, 1 is 3C higher, and another is 4C lower. as long as there isn't a major difference in temp (which could be caused by the heatsink not being on straight), i wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## MrClown

New kits have been announced!

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/watercooling-kits/d5-kits/


----------



## Bielijbog

RayStorm D5 *RX360* WaterCooling Kit

Kit Contents:
- RayStorm Intel CPU Waterblock
- D5 Dual Bay Reservoir
- D5 Vario Pump
*- EX360* Dual Radiator
- G1/4″ to 7/16″ Compression Fittings x6


----------



## mironccr345

I like the new res, I would have bought that over the Acrylic one.


----------



## pvt.joker

those new kits look like the way to go! Hopefully they won't be priced too high, and will be available soon!


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> RayStorm D5 *RX360* WaterCooling Kit
> Kit Contents:
> - RayStorm Intel CPU Waterblock
> - D5 Dual Bay Reservoir
> - D5 Vario Pump
> *- EX360* Dual Radiator
> - G1/4″ to 7/16″ Compression Fittings x6


LOL, along with this:

- XSPC 1650rpm 120mm Fan x3
- 120mm Fan Grill (Black Chrome) x2

what the foooq? lol

Also, why are they using black chrome fan grills, but regular ass chrome compression fittings?


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> those new kits look like the way to go! Hopefully they won't be priced too high, and will be available soon!


They are avaliable now at frozenCPU at least.

EX240 is $260USD and EX360 is $280 USD. They don't have the RX ones up yet.


----------



## Bielijbog

That's not a bad price at all... the RX 360 Raystorm (EXTREME) was $299.

Actually, the extreme already has a D5 pump.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Raystorm_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321

The major difference in the RASA RX360 Kit and RASA RX360 Extreme is listed below!

-Pump Upgrade to the D5 (Alphacool VPP Single)
-CPU Block upgraded to the newer, better performing Raystorm
-Choice of tubing color
-Compression fittings instead of barbs


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> That's not a bad price at all... the RX 360 Raystorm (EXTREME) was $299.
> Actually, the extreme already has a D5 pump.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15140/ex-wat-203/XSPC_Raystorm_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil_Hot_item.html?tl=g30c321
> The major difference in the RASA RX360 Kit and RASA RX360 Extreme is listed below!
> -Pump Upgrade to the D5 (Alphacool VPP Single)
> -CPU Block upgraded to the newer, better performing Raystorm
> -Choice of tubing color
> -Compression fittings instead of barbs


Yea, the thing is, those EXTREME kits are not official XSPC kits. They were just parts put together into a bundle by FrozenCPU and performancePCS. That D5 is not the XSPC D5 that was just released, it's a Swifttech D5. Also, they came with the old res, not the one released a few weeks ago. The fan covers are silver instead of black and I don't think the fans were sleeved, etc.


----------



## Bielijbog

The new EX360 kit you mentioned has a Swifttech pump too.

Swiftech MCP655-B
Swiftech MCP655 Variable Speed ($15.00)
I Have a Pump Already (-89.95)


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> The new EX360 kit you mentioned has a Swifttech pump too.
> Swiftech MCP655-B
> Swiftech MCP655 Variable Speed ($15.00)
> I Have a Pump Already (-89.95)


Hmmm, that's not right then. The new kits should come with the XSPC branded D5 Vario only I believe. So maybe they haven't been released, but they updated the pictures from the press release.


----------



## Matt-Matt

The new kits look nice, but cost alot!


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> The new kits look nice, but cost alot!


If they're close to the prices on FrozenCPU they're great for the price...


----------



## evil jerry

yeah from the prices I have seen them for. it's stil an awesome deal. Not to mention XSPC has a good RMA service!


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> If they're close to the prices on FrozenCPU they're great for the price...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> yeah from the prices I have seen them for. it's stil an awesome deal. Not to mention XSPC has a good RMA service!


Yeah, I agree that it's a good price.. But it's alot for starting out! I mean the RS240 is pushing my budget as it is if i even end up getting it..


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Yeah, I agree that it's a good price.. But it's alot for starting out! I mean the RS240 is pushing my budget as it is if i even end up getting it..


Just think the RS240 for $130 i think it is or a Corsair H100 which runs $100-$130

Better performance and an awesome custom loop.


----------



## Blaze0303

Im ordering a RS240 or RX if I cant find a RS in stock! I wont even think about complaining about the price. Its amazing for money!


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> LOL, along with this:
> - XSPC 1650rpm 120mm Fan x3
> - 120mm Fan Grill (Black Chrome) x2
> what the foooq? lol
> Also, why are they using black chrome fan grills, but regular ass chrome compression fittings?


The rs360 kit i got a few months back had black chrome fan grills in it, isnt that the norm? Also they have changed out the barbs for comp fittings in the new kits? sorry just jumped back into the thread and im a little confused







hehe soz


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> Im ordering a RS240 or RX if I cant find a RS in stock! I wont even think about complaining about the price. Its amazing for money!


RX is worth the extra money, i wish I had the rx version of the 360.

You will notice they go out of stock on some websites but usually within a week there back in stock.


----------



## mandrix

performance-pcs.com has the RS240 kits, I know some were looking for them. Recently they were shown as out of stock but if you called them they actually had the kits. About $130.


----------



## Dranx

I'm looking to buy one of these kits. I was originally looking to get the extreme kit on Frozen CPU and switch to the Swiftech MCP955 pump. Now that these new ones have came out, is the EX360 radiator better than the RX? It would be cooling an Ivy Bridge processor, and then I was going to add a 680 waterblock down the road. Also it would be in the top of my case, a HAF 932. Would the thick RX fit in the top of it anyway?


----------



## Blaze0303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> RX is worth the extra money, i wish I had the rx version of the 360.
> You will notice they go out of stock on some websites but usually within a week there back in stock.


Thanks Im going with the RX240!


----------



## Blaze0303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> performance-pcs.com has the RS240 kits, I know some were looking for them. Recently they were shown as out of stock but if you called them they actually had the kits. About $130.


They also want $32.50 to ship to military addresses. Fail.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> I'm looking to buy one of these kits. I was originally looking to get the extreme kit on Frozen CPU and switch to the Swiftech MCP955 pump. Now that these new ones have came out, is the EX360 radiator better than the RX? It would be cooling an Ivy Bridge processor, and then I was going to add a 680 waterblock down the road. Also it would be in the top of my case, a HAF 932. Would the thick RX fit in the top of it anyway?


The EX is better with fans over 1200 RPM or so. RX is better in the 600-1000 RPM range. Since all these kits come with 1650RPM fans by default, the EX is probably better if you don't plan on switching out the fans.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> I'm looking to buy one of these kits. I was originally looking to get the extreme kit on Frozen CPU and switch to the Swiftech MCP955 pump. Now that these new ones have came out, is the EX360 radiator better than the RX? It would be cooling an Ivy Bridge processor, and then I was going to add a 680 waterblock down the road. Also it would be in the top of my case, a HAF 932. Would the thick RX fit in the top of it anyway?


I just installed the RX 360 in my HAF 932. Fits fine except part of the rad goes into the optical bay which isn't a problem because if you look at the top where the "fillport" area is, theres actually a vent so it'll still work. Only about 60mm goes under there. I'm adding 120x38mm fan casings as shrouds later and there seems to be plenty of room for them. I'll post pictures later.


----------



## Dranx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> I just installed the RX 360 in my HAF 932. Fits fine except part of the rad goes into the optical bay which isn't a problem because if you look at the top where the "fillport" area is, theres actually a vent so it'll still work. Only about 60mm goes under there. I'm adding 120x38mm fan casings as shrouds later and there seems to be plenty of room for them. I'll post pictures later.


So if I would be going for the EX360, do you think that there would be enough room for a Push/Pull set up?


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> So if I would be going for the EX360, do you think that there would be enough room for a Push/Pull set up?


Definitely. I'm not sure how much thinner the EX is but you should be good. The only way you might have a problem is if you tried to use shrouds on both sides of the push/pull. You might be able to get away with it if you used 25mm casing instead of 38 mm though (granted you decide to use fan casings as shrouds).


----------



## Bielijbog

Really ****ty phone pictures... I searched for the nice camera and I have no clue whats happened to it.
Putting in some GT's today once they arrive.




Got close to kinking there, might readjust that tubing but it doesn't seem to be causing any trouble.


You can see what I was talking about with the 360 here Dranx:


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> They also want $32.50 to ship to military addresses. Fail.


Have tried Sidewinder or any other places for shipping prices?


----------



## Derko1

Quick question! I just added a set of 7970s to my system (not in the loop, just have their stock HS) and now my core temps are jumping around randomly. I was getting a pretty steady 32-36C before.... but now the temps are all over the place, from 38-54 like every other second. What could cause this?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Quick question! I just added a set of 7970s to my system (not in the loop, just have their stock HS) and now my core temps are jumping around randomly. I was getting a pretty steady 32-36C before.... but now the temps are all over the place, from 38-54 like every other second. What could cause this?


Could be some app that keeps accessing the CPU. Did you have AMD cards before?


----------



## speedysteve007

Okay i have a question.. Is the new RX240 kit able to push a video card as well? Or should i get a custom kit since my 7970 is the only thing i really wanna help..
All parts are in sig


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> Okay i have a question.. Is the new RX240 kit able to push a video card as well? Or should i get a custom kit since my 7970 is the only thing i really wanna help..
> All parts are in sig


Should be fine. 120mm per block.


----------



## I7guy

just ordered one of the ex360 kits for my HAF 932

cant wait for it to show =)


----------



## speedysteve007

So add one more single fan rad to help out with the cpu?


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> So add one more single fan rad to help out with the cpu?


How many 7970's do you have? If its just the one plus the CPU, you'll be good with a 240, but you might get a few extra degrees with the extra 120.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> Okay i have a question.. Is the new RX240 kit able to push a video card as well? Or should i get a custom kit since my 7970 is the only thing i really wanna help..
> All parts are in sig


If you have 1 cpu and 1 gpu, you will be fine. I was going to do it with an rs240, but went SLI so I got another rad. Best thing to do is hook it all up and see what your temps are. Then, decide from there. Unless you just want to add another rad. However, I would suggest at least another 240 for future head room should you want to xfire that bad boy.


----------



## zander89

hey guys, sorry about the shoddy quality ( took it on my phone before i had to go out) but i managed to nab some cold cathode UV lights for silly cheap on amazon. Think it looks orite


----------



## goku5868




----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goku5868*


i really like the look of the raystorm blocks, trying to sell my rasa and replace it with a raystorm


----------



## Kaneda13

@goku5868

What do you think of those excalibur's for rad fans? i'm looking at replacing some on the fans i have, and have been reading some reviews on them.


----------



## goku5868

Here is video unboxing of it


----------



## goku5868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> @goku5868
> What do you think of those excalibur's for rad fans? i'm looking at replacing some on the fans i have, and have been reading some reviews on them.


I loved these fans there fast for the price I wish they made in blue or red I will buy more in the future


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goku5868*
> 
> I loved these fans there fast for the price I wish they made in blue or red I will buy more in the future


from some of the reviews i've read, people complain that the air escapes from the mesh in the side when used as a rad fan, not your experience?


----------



## goku5868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> from some of the reviews i've read, people complain that the air escapes from the mesh in the side when used as a rad fan, not your experience?


Yeah I do have the same problem sometimes kinda weird that's only thing i don't liked about them....


----------



## anubis1127

Just added some AP-15's to my EX240, dropped temps 1C, woohoo, i'm sure that was worth $70, lol.


----------



## speedysteve007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> How many 7970's do you have? If its just the one plus the CPU, you'll be good with a 240, but you might get a few extra degrees with the extra 120.


Yea i just have the one 7970. But here is the next thing.. I have a XFX Double D FX-797A-TDBC Radeon HD 7970 Black Edition 3GB, Does anyone know what water block would work for that?


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> Yea i just have the one 7970. But here is the next thing.. I have a XFX Double D FX-797A-TDBC Radeon HD 7970 Black Edition 3GB, Does anyone know what water block would work for that?


Swifttech says the Komodo will work.
http://www.swiftech.com/komodo-hd7900.aspx#tab3

I'm not sure if the Double D is considered reference but because it's compatible with the Komodo, it's probably fine with any of the 7970 waterblocks.


----------



## I7guy

Any idea if the tubing included in the kit will be enough to add a Grfx card in the loop


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I7guy*
> 
> Any idea if the tubing included in the kit will be enough to add a Grfx card in the loop


I believe it comes with 7 EDIT: feet? If that's right, then yes.


----------



## I7guy

8 feet it says


----------



## Bielijbog

I meant feet, not sure why I typed meters.







Yeah, it should be enough. I ordered 7 feet of black PrimoChill tubing and I have about a foot left.


----------



## I7guy

Sounds good, thank you


----------



## thomasrs

hey guys!

just installed a xspc rx240 kit. I have the coolermaster r4s doing just push on it. I know they might be over kill but im getting good temps:

Idle: 34 degrees celsius
Load: 51 degrees celsius

I also have a swifttech mcw 82 running on my graphics card and those number are even more impressive:

Idle: 35 degrees celsius
Load: on low fan setting 46 degrees celsius
on high fan setting 42 degrees celsius

what do you guys think? Good temps?

Here are some pics:

Pics of the inside:




From outside:




I would really appreciate any comments on my setup anything can help seen that this is a first watercooling situation. I am from Brazil don`t know how many Brazillians there are in this forum but anyhow hope you enjoy.

WEhat do you guysthink of the setup?


----------



## speedysteve007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> Swifttech says the Komodo will work.
> http://www.swiftech.com/komodo-hd7900.aspx#tab3
> I'm not sure if the Double D is considered reference but because it's compatible with the Komodo, it's probably fine with any of the 7970 waterblocks.


Yea i found that out about 20 minutes after i posted that lol. Heck for what i want my bill is up to $510


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> hey guys!
> just installed a xspc rx240 kit. I have the coolermaster r4s doing just push on it. I know they might be over kill but im getting good temps:
> Idle: 34 degrees celsius
> Load: 51 degrees celsius
> I also have a swifttech mcw 82 running on my graphics card and those number are even more impressive:
> Idle: 35 degrees celsius
> Load: on low fan setting 46 degrees celsius
> on high fan setting 42 degrees celsius
> what do you guys think? Good temps?
> Here are some pics:
> Pics of the inside:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From outside:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would really appreciate any comments on my setup anything can help seen that this is a first watercooling situation. I am from Brazil don`t know how many Brazillians there are in this forum but anyhow hope you enjoy.
> WEhat do you guysthink of the setup?


Looks good, but without knowing what chips and what graphics cards, hard to tell "how good".


----------



## Ganf

Seeing graphs around the net that show the RX360 being capable of shedding around 700 watts of heat at 1800 RPM's. Is that accurate? Thought it was a bit high, not that I'm complaining.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Seeing graphs around the net that show the RX360 being capable of shedding around 700 watts of heat at 1800 RPM's. Is that accurate? Thought it was a bit high, not that I'm complaining.


That's not very accurate. Look here for accurate numbers for multiple different fan speeds.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> Yea i found that out about 20 minutes after i posted that lol. Heck for what i want my bill is up to $510


That block is smexy!


----------



## speedysteve007

It is sexy







i would love to leave my video card how it looks.. but its way to hot for what i do lol


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> That's not very accurate. Look here for accurate numbers for multiple different fan speeds.


Yeah, I just revisted this review and this one and checked how they tested it. Turns out one was using free flowing water from an open tap and the other a 6 gallon resevoir.... I think I'll be checking details like that more closely from now on.


----------



## thomasrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Looks good, but without knowing what chips and what graphics cards, hard to tell "how good".


my graphics card is a 6970 and my processor is an unlocke i5 2500k.

So any ideas guys?


----------



## zander89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> my graphics card is a 6970 and my processor is an unlocke i5 2500k.
> So any ideas guys?


clocks etc? If its all at stock then im sure its dandy. If you have both heavily overclocked then its a different story! eg if your 2500k is at 5ghz and you have a hefty oc on your gfx card those temps would be amazing for just one 360 rad. You need to let people know the exact clocks and volts if possible. will give us a better idea of the load wattage. I'm personally going for another 240 rad in the bottom of my case to accomodate my 670 when i add it to the loop


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> my graphics card is a 6970 and my processor is an unlocke i5 2500k.
> So any ideas guys?


You need to start by putting your system into your sig using the rigbuilder. Should be at the top right corner of the page.

Then post the following.

CPU clock, voltage, temp idle, temp at max load (running for about 3 hours at least)

GPU same but about 10 minutes maxed out would tell you what it will be running.

Rig looks really nice. My guess is that since this is your first venture into wc that you have not OC anything. Even if you do, your set up will be fine as long as you do not add anything else.


----------



## Dranx

I can't decide which kit I want. I definitely want one of the newer ones, and was looking at the "extreme" kit on FrozenCPU.com, but since the new kits came out idk what to get. Any recommendations? Should I go with 360/240 mm and the EX or the RX. Its going to be for a 3570K and most likely a GTX 670 down the road.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> I can't decide which kit I want. I definitely want one of the newer ones, and was looking at the "extreme" kit on FrozenCPU.com, but since the new kits came out idk what to get. Any recommendations? Should I go with 360/240 mm and the EX or the RX. Its going to be for a 3570K and most likely a GTX 670 down the road.


General rule of thumb is 120mm of rad spacer PER block +120mm. If I where you I would go for the "Extreme" kit 360kit. It has a good pump that will power though your loop great and be able to handle adding in a GPU block with ease. It come's with the XSPC RayStrom Block witch is a top notch CPU block. The tubing is upgraded from the stuff in XSPC's regular kits so you won't have to replace it like with the non extreme kits.

As for EX VS RX it really depends on what kind of loop you want, and how thick of a rad you can fit. The RX is thick and has a low FPI count(Fins per inch) so you can turn your fans way down and have a silent but nice a cool rig. The EX radiator is a thin radiator with a slightly higher FPI count over the RX. the RX is cooler if your fans will be running at less than 1,000RPMS. The EX will still cool great at that speed but the EX start's to open up in the 1k+ RPM range. I might suggest if you have the room and budget that you pick up extra fans(3 extra's for the EX or RX 360) for a push pull config and a Fan controller. You would have a kick @$$ loop for the money. XSPC fans are amazing for the price.

If it where my loop I would get the "extreme" RX360 +3 Fans and a controller and have a silent loop ready for a GPU block when you feel like it. Use Distilled water, PT Nuke and a kill coil for fluid. I hope this helps you in selecting the right kit for you. You will be happy with any 240 or 360 XSPC kit, just remeber to replace the Tubing if you choose to go with out the extreme kit. It is however totally worth the extreme kit! Happy Water Cooling!


----------



## Dranx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> General rule of thumb is 120mm of rad spacer PER block +120mm. If I where you I would go for the "Extreme" kit 360kit. It has a good pump that will power though your loop great and be able to handle adding in a GPU block with ease. It come's with the XSPC RayStrom Block witch is a top notch CPU block. The tubing is upgraded from the stuff in XSPC's regular kits so you won't have to replace it like with the non extreme kits.
> As for EX VS RX it really depends on what kind of loop you want, and how thick of a rad you can fit. The RX is thick and has a low FPI count(Fins per inch) so you can turn your fans way down and have a silent but nice a cool rig. The EX radiator is a thin radiator with a slightly higher FPI count over the RX. the RX is cooler if your fans will be running at less than 1,000RPMS. The EX will still cool great at that speed but the EX start's to open up in the 1k+ RPM range. I might suggest if you have the room and budget that you pick up extra fans(3 extra's for the EX or RX 360) for a push pull config and a Fan controller. You would have a kick @$$ loop for the money. XSPC fans are amazing for the price.
> If it where my loop I would get the "extreme" RX360 +3 Fans and a controller and have a silent loop ready for a GPU block when you feel like it. Use Distilled water, PT Nuke and a kill coil for fluid. I hope this helps you in selecting the right kit for you. You will be happy with any 240 or 360 XSPC kit, just remeber to replace the Tubing if you choose to go with out the extreme kit. It is however totally worth the extreme kit! Happy Water Cooling!


Thank you







Going for the extreme kit then. Is the variable speed pump worth the extra 15 bucks? And I have heard that the clear tubing turns foggy after awhile, is this true? If so, should I just go with a different color tubing?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going for the extreme kit then. Is the variable speed pump worth the extra 15 bucks? And I have heard that the clear tubing turns foggy after awhile, is this true? If so, should I just go with a different color tubing?


IMO the variable speed pump is totally worth the extra 15 bucks, give's you more control over noise (I like quiet water loops). I know the tubing in the basic kits is crap. I am 99% positive that you can rock the "stock" tubing from the "extreme kit" without fear of fogging or clouding up but I would wait for some one else to verify that one. If you would like to use colored tubing then by all means select a color you like and do it to it man!


----------



## Dranx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> IMO the variable speed pump is totally worth the extra 15 bucks, give's you more control over noise (I like quiet water loops). I know the tubing in the basic kits is crap. I am 99% positive that you can rock the "stock" tubing from the "extreme kit" without fear of fogging or clouding up but I would wait for some one else to verify that one. If you would like to use colored tubing then by all means select a color you like and do it to it man!


Alright, I'm going for it. Just purchased the Extreme 360mm kit on FrozenCPU and about to purchase a GPU waterblock. Have no idea what to get. I heard that EK is good but their customer service sucks and also their blocks corrode. Which block for a GTX 670 (its the EVGA 670 FTW so its a 680 PCB, so I guess its technically a 680) should be good?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> Alright, I'm going for it. Just purchased the Extreme 360mm kit on FrozenCPU and about to purchase a GPU waterblock. Have no idea what to get. I heard that EK is good but their customer service sucks and also their blocks corrode. Which block for a GTX 670 (its the EVGA 670 FTW so its a 680 PCB, so I guess its technically a 680) should be good?


The only advice I can give on water block is to avoid EK nickle blocks like the plague( I wouldn't use any of their blocks at all, They are currently blaming customer's for their poor quality nickle plating). Outside of that I cannot recommend any blocks(lack of experiance with the 6XX and water blocks that fit it, sorry). I'm sure a quick Google search could tell you what you want to know, or if you give it an hour or two I'll bet someone will be though here with a detailed answer to your question.


----------



## Dranx

Alright, I think I'm going to go with the Heatkiller 680 water blocks. Any other suggestions before I pull the trigger?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> Alright, I think I'm going to go with the Heatkiller 680 water blocks. Any other suggestions before I pull the trigger?


Make sure you get a Silver Kill Coil, and PT nuke to keep your look clean and "growth free". Although I remember seeing the Silver Kill Coil as part of the extreme kit... or maybe that was a one time special.. let me check that really fast .

EDIT: ignore the part about the Silver Kill Coil being included, it is not listed on frozen CPU anymore.


----------



## Dranx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Make sure you get a Silver Kill Coil, and PT nuke to keep your look clean and "growth free".


I got the Kill coil free with my order, but do I need BOTH, the PT Nuke AND the kill coil?


----------



## Ganf

Well, I believe you have an EVGA card. If you like the quality, they also make a block. More expensive than the competition, but so was the card you bought.


----------



## Dranx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Well, I believe you have an EVGA card. If you like the quality, they also make a block. More expensive than the competition, but so was the card you bought.


Ehh, not really. The card was originally an SC edition, was $420. I got an RMA and it got bumped up to a FTW edition.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> Ehh, not really. The card was originally an SC edition, was $420. I got an RMA and it got bumped up to a FTW edition.


Hax....


----------



## Dranx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Hax....


This happened to a lot of people lol. Funny thing is I just RMA'd the replacement for the defective card. So the replacement was defective too, the driver kept crashing. Anyway, back to the question I had earlier. Do I need both PT Nuke and a silver KillCoil, or will using just the kill coil work?


----------



## Ganf

I acutally wouldn't suggest using both, because I'm not sure how the PT nuke would react to the coil and vice versa. One or the other is plenty good. I've been using a kill coil for about a month now with no funk, but 3 months is the proof. Haven't heard of anyone having any problems though, except one guy who didn't get all of the air out of his res and had fungi growing in the top, but I'd imagine that would happen with the nuke too.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> Alright, I'm going for it. Just purchased the Extreme 360mm kit on FrozenCPU and about to purchase a GPU waterblock. Have no idea what to get. I heard that EK is good but their customer service sucks and also their blocks corrode. Which block for a GTX 670 (its the EVGA 670 FTW so its a 680 PCB, so I guess its technically a 680) should be good?


I _really_ hope they are selling the new reservoir with the Extreme kit, otherwise you'll be sending it back in no time. It's a total piece and you can't adjust the pump once it's installed from what I remember. Also, not to rain on your parade anymore, but the official XSPC kits come with a variable speed D5 by default, so you kind of wasted $15 bucks







.


----------



## I7guy

I ordered mine from performance-pcs.. It was cheaper and comes with the swiftech mcp655 which I believe is adjustable


----------



## mandrix

I may have a small leak I can't find. I've placed tissues under all the fittings and see nada. About a week ago it looks like the system "burped" and the res level went down about 1/4". After that I took a sharpie and drew a line on the front of the res where the window is in the faceplate. For days the level stayed constant. Now it has dropped a little below the line.
Is it likely that more air came out of the system to the res or that I have a bonafide slow leak somewhere?

Note this is not the original tubing, I put the XSPC hi flex UV Blue on a couple weeks ago when I relocated my rad to the top of the case.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I may have a small leak I can't find. I've placed tissues under all the fittings and see nada. About a week ago it looks like the system "burped" and the res level went down about 1/4". After that I took a sharpie and drew a line on the front of the res where the window is in the faceplate. For days the level stayed constant. Now it has dropped a little below the line.
> Is it likely that more air came out of the system to the res or that I have a bonafide slow leak somewhere?
> Note this is not the original tubing, I put the XSPC hi flex UV Blue on a couple weeks ago when I relocated my rad to the top of the case.


doubt if you have any leak(s). just water found some areas where there used to be air, that's all. add water.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> doubt if you have any leak(s). just water found some areas where there used to be air, that's all. add water.


Thanks! As a newcomer to water cooling I wasn't sure what to expect. Sure went through a lot of tissues.....








This didn't happen the first time I put the loop together, so I was a little concerned. I'll get out the huge syringe and go to work.


----------



## pvt.joker

yeah, sounds like it just worked the air bubbles out of the system. top off your res and you should be good..


----------



## thomasrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> You need to start by putting your system into your sig using the rigbuilder. Should be at the top right corner of the page.
> Then post the following.
> CPU clock, voltage, temp idle, temp at max load (running for about 3 hours at least)
> GPU same but about 10 minutes maxed out would tell you what it will be running.
> Rig looks really nice. My guess is that since this is your first venture into wc that you have not OC anything. Even if you do, your set up will be fine as long as you do not add anything else.


Hey guys,

Im reposting because I didn't give enough info before. I wanted to know what you guys thought about my temps. Heres a print screen:


Here are some more pics of the rig and hardware can be seen on my sig down below:







Pleae comment on my set up as well:

I have it running PUMP/RESERVOIR > RAD > CPU BLOCK > GRAPHICS BLOCK > PUMP

Note that for my graphics card block I am using a swiftech mcw82 and the inlet for it I have it connect on the left side of the block and outlet on the right. Is that correct?

Any ideas is this an ideal set up?

Thanks for the help guys


----------



## mandrix

Your cpu temps look good , highest temp is 59c for x46 OC? I won't comment on the graphics cooling because I haven't done that, but it all looks good to me.


----------



## mandrix

XSPC Water Block
XSPC 240 Rad
XSPC 5.25" drive bay res with MCP655 pump
Barbs on everything
4x Yate Loon fans

Thinking of getting this used setup as part of my next build. What's the opinion on this pump?


----------



## Juiced




----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> XSPC Water Block
> XSPC 240 Rad
> XSPC 5.25" drive bay res with MCP655 pump
> Barbs on everything
> 4x Yate Loon fans
> Thinking of getting this used setup as part of my next build. What's the opinion on this pump?


The pump is one of the best and is also known as the Laing D5. It's a much more powerful pump than what's included in the regular XSPC kits and can easily drive a loop with a CPU and 2-3 GPUs with no hiccups, even if the blocks are restrictive. Some of them are also variable in speed, so if you prefer silence over performance, they will be a real treat. Lastly, the pump itself is compatible with many reservoirs and pump tops, so you can mix and match to your building pleasure.


----------



## shremi

Hi all

I am seriously thinking about upgrading my cooling to water but i have a couple of questions i hope you can help me out.. my budget will be $200 - $ 250

1.- I only want to cool my cpu will a RX-240 kit will be enough or should i go for the raystorm kit ?? or the ultimate ??? or should i just order parts and build the loop myself

2.- I am currently overclocking my 2500k @ 4.8 - 1.44 Vcore on Air with the Noctua NH-D14 and the temps under prime are quite well high 60 low 70 for most of the time but since the new version of prime has AVX it can get up to high 70s low 80s . I want to get this baby up to 5.0 even if it means going underwater







plus it will look really amazing.

3.- Do you think i will be able to benefit a lot from the temps ????

Thanks


----------



## I7guy

any 240 kit should do the trick in a cpu only loop


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juiced*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler


Amazing you run this with no ram


















OK that is a sad joke









On a more serious note, what is that bridge piece between the two video cards you are using? I like it.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The pump is one of the best and is also known as the Laing D5. It's a much more powerful pump than what's included in the regular XSPC kits and can easily drive a loop with a CPU and 2-3 GPUs with no hiccups, even if the blocks are restrictive. Some of them are also variable in speed, so if you prefer silence over performance, they will be a real treat. Lastly, the pump itself is compatible with many reservoirs and pump tops, so you can mix and match to your building pleasure.


Thank you. After I posted I found some more threads about it. After some thought instead of buying a used one I'll probably get the variable speed version when I do my new build. What confused me was the same pump being sold by different part names from different vendors.

EDIT: On another topic, I ordered the Raystorm block to test out on my current rig and 2 Bitspower compression fittings for it. Curious to see if I get a performance lift over the old block.


----------



## Hackcremo

Hello guys..
i need some recommendation on my first water cooling kit..this kit will be used to cool my 2700k at 4.6ghz (to overcome malaysian heat) and also have extra feature to add 2 GTX 460 into the loop later on when i have extra money..but i am focus on cpu loop first..
i dont know whether elite 430 support water cooling or not..if not, i need some budget water cooling friendly case also..i intend to go for best bang for buck water cooling as the introduction for me into water cooling..hope i can see some suggestion from the expert..

the main reason i want to water cool my system i folded 24/7. my 2700k fold at peak temp which 80'c..

thanks..


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hackcremo*
> 
> Hello guys..
> i need some recommendation on my first water cooling kit..this kit will be used to cool my 2700k at 4.6ghz (to overcome malaysian heat) and also have extra feature to add 2 GTX 460 into the loop later on when i have extra money..but i am focus on cpu loop first..
> i dont know whether elite 430 support water cooling or not..if not, i need some budget water cooling friendly case also..i intend to go for best bang for buck water cooling as the introduction for me into water cooling..hope i can see some suggestion from the expert..
> the main reason i want to water cool my system i folded 24/7. my 2700k fold at peak temp which 80'c..
> thanks..


Can you link any online store?

Or where do you plan on buying from?


----------



## Hackcremo

malaysia dont have any online sales website..usually i will look for suggestion in OCN then bought it direct from retail shop..so far many xspc product can be found in malaysia but i dont know which one is bang for the buck for me as the starting kit..


----------



## ginger_nuts

I would personally say the RS240 WaterCooling Kit is a fantastic place to start. You can add the extra two GPU's and an extra radiator when needed.

Note: You will be better served to add the GPU's is serial when it is time.

As for a case to support at least two rad's etc, I would say the Cooler Master 690 II is great for that but also the Bitfenix Shinobi XL would be great.


----------



## turbobnl

do you guys know when the rs240 kit will be back in stock?


----------



## rdr09

nvm


----------



## Juiced

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Amazing you run this with no ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK that is a sad joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a more serious note, what is that bridge piece between the two video cards you are using? I like it.


Swiftech Triple 1.6in. SLI and CrossFire Bridge


----------



## phamxp426

School's finally winding down, so I now have time to upgrade my loop! I'm thinking off adding my 6970 to the loop which consists of a RS240 right now. I'm also going to add either a EX120/140 rad or a RX120 rad at the bottom. Do you guys think that's enough surface area to cool a 6970 and an old Q6700 @ 3.6? I'm probably going to upgrade to ivy soon, but I still have to see.

If I do add a rad at the bottom, would it best to intake cold air from outside the cause and exhaust it into the case? Or would it better to intake air from inside the case and exhaust the hot radiator air out towards the bottom. Most of the threads that I have read regarding this topic have shown pretty negligible results between the two setups so I'm not quite sure...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phamxp426*
> 
> School's finally winding down, so I now have time to upgrade my loop! I'm thinking off adding my 6970 to the loop which consists of a RS240 right now. I'm also going to add either a EX120/140 rad or a RX120 rad at the bottom. Do you guys think that's enough surface area to cool a 6970 and an old Q6700 @ 3.6? I'm probably going to upgrade to ivy soon, but I still have to see.
> If I do add a rad at the bottom, would it best to intake cold air from outside the cause and exhaust it into the case? Or would it better to intake air from inside the case and exhaust the hot radiator air out towards the bottom. Most of the threads that I have read regarding this topic have shown pretty negligible results between the two setups so I'm not quite sure...


What case do you have?

But I would say bring air in the bottom and out the top.

That is how most the cases are setup these days.


----------



## phamxp426

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What case do you have?
> But I would say bring air in the bottom and out the top.
> That is how most the cases are setup these days.


I have an Azza Solano 1000 so plenty of airflow to spare.Thanks for the advice







I'll go with that. To that extent, does anyone recommend going with the EX over the RX rads? I really dont mind fan noise, and the RX is a tad bit more expensive.


----------



## blade121

Hey everyone,

New to the Forums, I am looking to upgrade to the RS240 kit or possibly to the EX240. I'm currently using the Thermaltake Big water 760 plus kit (yes I know...insert comments here). It has gotten me by so far, but I have noticed that the system is getting hotter and hotter every day. I do know that most of it is coming from the GPU - GTX 480 which I'm going to be adding it to the loop later. Right now it seems at about 20-30% load I'm getting about 50c on CPU. I ran Prime95 and within seconds it went from 50c to about 75c and before the heating up finished I was already at 85c and I stopped it. The GPU is killing me on the heat it's at about 40c Idle and during game play I'm hitting 80c easy, so I have to crank the fan speed up to almost 100% and then I get about 65-70c. Do you think a simple RS240 will be sufficient enough for the CPU and GPU? I'm limited to the Corsair 400R case so it's only a midtower case. But I'm think the 240 at the top and using some Corsair SP120 fans. I already have 4 of the AF120 in the case circulating the air except for the front which is the white led fans that came in he case. The pictures in my rig are not up to date with the current setup.

I have looked everywhere and I cannot find a RS240 kit, I did find the EX240 from PerformancePc but 250 is a little out of budget at the moment. Anyone have an idea when the RS will be back in stock?
Any suggestions on the kit in general are appreciated like fittings, tubing, and thermal paste. Things of that nature. I have also read about using distilled water and kill coil and others using additives and some just using pre mixed fluids.


----------



## mandrix

got room for an RX up top or side? I know you probably want to mount inside but I have my RX240 mounted on top my HAF 922 with phobya spacers and to me it looks ok.


----------



## Kristof

Hello.

Here is my XSPC Rasa RS360 kit installed into my Cooler Master 690 Nvidia Edition:









I currently have my 3570k at 4.5ghz @ 1.175v
With ambient temps around 76 farenheit. I am getting 36C idle and an average of 60C 100 percent load with Aida64 (CPU, FPU, and cache) Fresh IC Diamond 7 thermal paste, but I have used way over 2 hours.

Let me know what you guys think. Thank you.


----------



## mironccr345

Im not a big fan of external mounted rads, but on your rig, it looks really good. The inside can be cleaned up a bit, but performance first and aesthetics second!.......or both.


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Im not a big fan of external mounted rads, but on your rig, it looks really good. The inside can be cleaned up a bit, but performance first and aesthetics second!.......or both.


Thanks, do you mean the cables I need to clean up?

You should see the back side. It was a nightmare trying to get the back panel on. I don't want to take it off again.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Thanks, do you mean the cables I need to clean up?
> You should see the back side. It was a nightmare trying to get the back panel on. I don't want to take it off again.


The cables.







Not necessary though.


----------



## Derko1

After losing my mother board to a short circuit... I finally finished my WC build. It was fun and I'll definetly will do it again. I will replace the fitting on the bottom rad. So that the GPU block and rad are closer, with a 45 degree fitting. I thought I had bought two when I placed my order...

So what do you guys think?


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> After losing my mother board to a short circuit... I finally finished my WC build. It was fun and I'll definetly will do it again. I will replace the fitting on the bottom rad. So that the GPU block and rad are closer, with a 45 degree fitting. I thought I had bought two when I placed my order...
> So what do you guys think?


I like it. The case looks almost like mine. Looks good. How are you on temps? Performance is more important then looks imo.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> I like it. The case looks almost like mine. Looks good. How are you on temps? Performance is more important then looks imo.


It's amazing! Load temps are no more than around high 50s maybe peaking 60s and GPUs, I have yet to see go above 35C under 100% load for 10 minutes.


----------



## macarule

looks awesome


----------



## Ganf

About to pick up a water block to throw on my 7970 and I'm pondering my loop order. I'll be adding a second radiator later just for fun but the RX360 with push-pull GT AP-15's should be plenty for a 2500k and 7970 if I'm not mistaken. Right now that's the only thing being cooled is the CPU, so would it be worth the trouble of all the rerouting to change the order from:
Res->CPU->Rad->GPU->Res

To

Res->GPU->Rad->CPU->Res ?

a 1 to 2 degree difference isn't going to motivate me to do the extra work. Sticking with the first configuration, I don't think I'll even have to drain my loop to put the GPU block in. The latter will be a complete tubing reconfiguration.

Edit: Need to figure this out before I order so I know which fittings I'm going to need.


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> New to the Forums, I am looking to upgrade to the RS240 kit or possibly to the EX240. I'm currently using the Thermaltake Big water 760 plus kit (yes I know...insert comments here). It has gotten me by so far, but I have noticed that the system is getting hotter and hotter every day. I do know that most of it is coming from the GPU - GTX 480 which I'm going to be adding it to the loop later. Right now it seems at about 20-30% load I'm getting about 50c on CPU. I ran Prime95 and within seconds it went from 50c to about 75c and before the heating up finished I was already at 85c and I stopped it. The GPU is killing me on the heat it's at about 40c Idle and during game play I'm hitting 80c easy, so I have to crank the fan speed up to almost 100% and then I get about 65-70c. Do you think a simple RS240 will be sufficient enough for the CPU and GPU? I'm limited to the Corsair 400R case so it's only a midtower case. But I'm think the 240 at the top and using some Corsair SP120 fans. I already have 4 of the AF120 in the case circulating the air except for the front which is the white led fans that came in he case.
> 
> The pictures in my rig are not up to date with the current setup.
> I have looked everywhere and I cannot find a RS240 kit, I did find the EX240 from PerformancePc but 250 is a little out of budget at the moment. Anyone have an idea when the RS will be back in stock?
> Any suggestions on the kit in general are appreciated like fittings, tubing, and thermal paste. Things of that nature. I have also read about using distilled water and kill coil and others using additives and some just using pre mixed fluids.


Any suggestions to my post? Im starting to lean more towards the EX240 just b/c of the CPU block. Also plan on adding the DangerDen gtx 480 block to the loop, that is mainly becuase thats all I can find as far as a GPU block for the GTX480 other than the Bitspower but I was reading some reviews an roundups and it didnt do very well. Any suggestions on the loop order?


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> I like it. The case looks almost like mine. Looks good. How are you on temps? Performance is more important then looks imo.


i like it, too. could not have been done any better. good job!


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> Any suggestions to my post? Im starting to lean more towards the EX240 just b/c of the CPU block. Also plan on adding the DangerDen gtx 480 block to the loop, that is mainly becuase thats all I can find as far as a GPU block for the GTX480 other than the Bitspower but I was reading some reviews an roundups and it didnt do very well. Any suggestions on the loop order?


When was the last time you pulled the fans off and did a proper dusting of the rad? and since it seems you're controlling the fans on the radiator, the RX is supposed to do better at lower fan speeds, the EX has better performance at high fan speeds.

1000rpm's or less, go with the RX. 1250+ and go with the EX. At least that's what I get from reading people's experiences and the tests here.


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> It's amazing! Load temps are no more than around high 50s maybe peaking 60s and GPUs, I have yet to see go above 35C under 100% load for 10 minutes.


Wow, Im getting max temps of 90C with settings of 4.8ghz @ 1.300v
(3570k) and cooling is an rs360 kit
ambient temps are relatively cool right now (70 Fahrenheit) , so I will expect max temps to rise.









Not sure if I should be happy or sad about my temps. Anyone else using a setup like mine?

I turned my block so the IN side is on top and the OUT side is on the bottom. So, cores 1 and 2 reach around 90C and Cores 0 and 4 have gone low as 80C.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Wow, Im getting max temps of 90C with settings of 4.8ghz @ 1.300v
> (3570k) and cooling is an rs360 kit
> ambient temps are relatively cool right now (70 Fahrenheit) , so I will expect max temps to rise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I should be happy or sad about my temps. Anyone else using a setup like mine?
> I turned my block so the IN side is on top and the OUT side is on the bottom. So, cores 1 and 2 reach around 90C and Cores 0 and 4 have gone low as 80C.


If i were you, would not happy with hi-temp, And re-set up CPU Loop.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Wow, Im getting max temps of 90C with settings of 4.8ghz @ 1.300v
> (3570k) and cooling is an rs360 kit
> ambient temps are relatively cool right now (70 Fahrenheit) , so I will expect max temps to rise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if I should be happy or sad about my temps. Anyone else using a setup like mine?
> I turned my block so the IN side is on top and the OUT side is on the bottom. So, cores 1 and 2 reach around 90C and Cores 0 and 4 have gone low as 80C.


I posed pics of my set up and some people mentioned some reasons why I was getting high temps before... which I was getting mid 80s... you have any pics of yours?


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> I posed pics of my set up and some people mentioned some reasons why I was getting high temps before... which I was getting mid 80s... you have any pics of yours?


Yes, a couple of posts back and its in my sig.

http://www.overclock.net/t/882408/official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-240-360-kit-club/12750#post_17440576


----------



## Kaneda13

Well, after getting paid for 15.4 hours at double time today (boss offered me double time if i would come in and help us get caught up), I was in such a great mood, i decided to go ahead and put my new bits in place, what think?

Before:









After:









No Flash:









Detail of the new eVGA backplate:









New fans on my custom shroud (lights not wired up yet):









New Fan on lower radiator:









Oh, and the all important before and after:
Before:








After:


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Well, after getting paid for 15.4 hours at double time today (boss offered me double time if i would come in and help us get caught up), I was in such a great mood, i decided to go ahead and put my new bits in place, what think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Flash:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Detail of the new eVGA backplate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New fans on my custom shroud (lights not wired up yet):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Fan on lower radiator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the all important before and after:
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:


Those new Corsair fans are like $50 here in Australia.









But they suit your build very nicely.


----------



## Kristof

Looks great Kaneda13.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Those new Corsair fans are like $50 here in Australia.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But they suit your build very nicely.


$50 for any PC fan... ANY... and it better do the dishes while it makes a sandwich and cools to sub-ambient.....

My god, and I thought $70 for a genuine leather fedora was bad in the states...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> After losing my mother board to a short circuit... I finally finished my WC build. It was fun and I'll definetly will do it again. I will replace the fitting on the bottom rad. So that the GPU block and rad are closer, with a 45 degree fitting. I thought I had bought two when I placed my order...
> So what do you guys think?


Wiring definitely looks better than on my HAF. I keep pulling things out and replacing, never seem to get the wiring straightened out. I've got a fan controller and Raystorm block and with all the 4 pin wiring stuffed into the drive bay it's a freaking mess. I'll probably get one of those power station blocks to plug everything (4 pin) into to clean it up.

Got a 800D on the way so I guess I better get the HAF straightened out before I start my new project.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Hey hey XSPC'ers!!!

I know... Been away a long long time. But, life has been good.

Kahbronnie graduated from university. Full fledged electrical engineer. Landed a good job a a nuclear power plant and management seems to have an eye on him. They are sending him off to specialized training and such.

Kahbronnette is still off limit's! She graduated from university also. Chemistry major. She was just accepted to med school. Proud Papa here. She is spending 5 weeks in Spain, Italy, Germany and other good places over there before she enslaves herself to her studies once more.

As for me? Well... I feel it's time for me to come back to W/C'ing and I am faithful to my XSPC brand. I set my previous gear aside when my res developed a crack. That's what happens if you drop it I guess. I "replaced" my setup with an H100 (as if that would really replace it). It's behaved so far but I want more. Now that I have an FX-8120 I want improved cooling and higher OC's. That's the nature of things I guess.

Here's what I have in mind. Need opinions so I know I am on track with things. Thanks in advance for the help.

CPU Block: I still have my Raystorm so I believe that I do not need to look at anything else.

Rad: Gonna go with the RX240/V2. Only gonna cool the CPU.

Fans: AP-13/14's in push... if I can find them. Other suggestions welcomed. I do have some Cougar Vortex 120's PWM laying around as well.

Res: (Suggestions? I pretty much feel one res is as good as any other or am I wrong?) I did see that XSPC res/D5 pump combo that comes with the EX rads kit but I can't seem to find them sold separately. Has anyone seen them sold alone?

Pump: D5... all though I want to switch to the vario.

Tubing: Tygon... Red or black. 7/16" ID.

Fittings: (Suggestions?) Been thinking on compression. Maybe even swivel. Always used barbs so ideas/advice welcomed. Since I never used compressions before, how do I go about sizes considering the tubing I am thinking about?

Coolant: DW with silver kill coil... or is there something better and more fashionable???

Any other tidbits of information I need to know before I start buying stuff? My budget is around $300-400 for this project right now.


----------



## Ganf

Tygon has been clouding up on people lately. A lot of different tubing types have some bad plasticizer leeching problems right now. Durelene and Masterkleer seem to be the cleanest right now, but you can head over to this thread and dig out what information you believe to be useful.

Compression fittings are always handy if you think you might be adding/removing frequently. As far as which ones? It pretty much boils down to whichever fit the look you're going for and your budget.

Coolant: That depends on whether you use any nickel plated blocks or not, in which case the manufacturer always seems to have something magical that, if you don't use, you are not only voiding your warranty but a horrible miser and filthy ******** to boot.









AP-13/14's are still a tough find, but the AP-15's seem to be an easy grab if you don't mind hooking them up to something to control them.

The rest I'm useless on. Have fun.


----------



## mandrix

I'm relatively new to water cooling but am still modding one rig and getting parts together for a new w/c Switch build.
I like the vortex fans and have several, but I always end up pulling them out because of the orange color. I seem to be having pretty good luck with the XSPC hi flex tubing, I'm running some UV blue in current rig but hasn't been in long term yet. I have the RX240 rad and it doesn't take a lot of fan to get good results, the stock XSPC fans or medium Yate Loons (1650 rpm) work well. I just jumped into compression fittings for the Raystorm, got the Bitspower shiny silver and I like them.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Just had a question, how are the stock fans on the RX and RS360 and 240kit? Same fans?
And how are you connecting them? Molex to to your motherboard or a fan controller? if you are using molex, how loud are they ?


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm relatively new to water cooling but am still modding one rig and getting parts together for a new w/c Switch build.
> I like the vortex fans and have several, but I always end up pulling them out because of the orange color. I seem to be having pretty good luck with the XSPC hi flex tubing, I'm running some UV blue in current rig but hasn't been in long term yet. I have the RX240 rad and it doesn't take a lot of fan to get good results, the stock XSPC fans or medium Yate Loons (1650 rpm) work well. I just jumped into compression fittings for the Raystorm, got the Bitspower shiny silver and I like them.


Is it clear tubing? How long have you had the kit installed with the stock tubing? I remember back when I first got my RASA kit that the tubing it came with clouded up within a month.

I may just run the Vortex fans and see how that goes.They are 800-1500 rpm fans so I think they can be adjusted easily enough. Color's not a real issue for me. Once I close up my case, i really dont look inside it again until cleaning time. But I will admit, I have been tempted to paint those suckers red.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Wiring definitely looks better than on my HAF. I keep pulling things out and replacing, never seem to get the wiring straightened out. I've got a fan controller and Raystorm block and with all the 4 pin wiring stuffed into the drive bay it's a freaking mess. I'll probably get one of those power station blocks to plug everything (4 pin) into to clean it up.
> Got a 800D on the way so I guess I better get the HAF straightened out before I start my new project.


My case does not have a window and it's tucked away behind a couch... so it doesn't matter what it looks like. But man.. for me cabling is number one. Otherwise you lose out on lower temps you could be getting. I highly suggest as you're building to think about where all the cables should go.


----------



## blade121

*** HOT *** XSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Watercooling Kit w/ EX240 Radiator/D5 Pump/Res
- CPU Waterblock: XSPC Raystorm - Intel
- XSPC 120mm Radiator Fans: XSPC 120mm 2000RPM Fan
- Fitting Size: 1/2" x 3/4"
- Compression Fitting Color: Black Chrome Finish
- Tubing: 8' Water Tubing - UV Blue
- Coolant: Alphacool Ultra Pure
- SILVER KILL COILS

Ordered Yesterday!

Any takes on the Alphacool Ultra Pure? I haven't read much about it here but other reviews it seemed pretty good.

My only concern is this.....
NOTE: CURRENT KITS SHIPPING WITH SWIFTECH MCP655 (NOT 655-B!) PUMPS DUE TO ALPHACOOL MANUFACTURER SHORTAGES

Is this going to hurt the performance setup?


----------



## Kahbrohn

655-B is the "NON-VARIABLE" speed pump. In essence, this is a better deal since you can now vary the speed of the pump. You get 5 speed settings (1 thru 5). This allows you to play around a bit. My wife got me the B model by mistake thinking it was a better model. Couldn't tell her otherwise since it was a gift from her.

The non variable speed 655 is also awesome but I believe it is set to a 3 or 4 speed (5 is highest speed) if I am not mistaken. Very quiet nonetheless.


----------



## blade121

Ok this makes sense. i was under the same impression as her then i was thinking the B was a better pump. So that makes me feel better.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> Ok this makes sense. i was under the same impression as her then i was thinking the B was a better pump. So that makes me feel better.


Yeah... They started off with the plain model number for their best product and the "revisions" are lesser models. Sort of backwards.

I will be ordering the whole RX240 kit for my FX-8120 as it is. Seems the simpler way to go. May wind up selling my "extra" used (about 2 months) Raystorm later on in the sell forum.

Will use my Cougars on the rad since they are rated at 800-1500 rpms. Seems like 1000-1200 is the sweet spot for fans on the RX240. The kit also has the fittings in there so no more guesswork. Will be using XSPC's black tubing.


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*
> 
> Yeah... They started off with the plain model number for their best product and the "revisions" are lesser models. Sort of backwards.
> I will be ordering the whole RX240 kit for my FX-8120 as it is. Seems the simpler way to go. May wind up selling my "extra" used (about 2 months) Raystorm later on in the sell forum.
> Will use my Cougars on the rad since they are rated at 800-1500 rpms. Seems like 1000-1200 is the sweet spot for fans on the RX240. The kit also has the fittings in there so no more guesswork. Eill be using XSPC's black tubing.


I am going to replace my fans with the new SP120 High Performance fans they are rated at 3.1mm/H20. They also have a Quiet Edition if you are looking for silence. They are about 14.99 each but you can buy a twin pack for about $27, and if you have Amazon Prime account you get free 2day shipping on them! I currently have 1 on my thermaltake but I'm going to re-purpose it along with another i just bought. I want to do a push/pull config on the ex240 but im going to wait and make sure i have enough room for it inside the case. I don't like external rads.


----------



## blade121

OK SO NOW WHAT....

I get an email from Performance-PCs saying:

Update: We're currently out of stock on the Swiftech-branded D5 pumps for these XSPC kits due to manufacturer shortages/delays. If you'd be okay with it, we can upgrade you to the Koolance-branded equivalent, PMP-450, no difference in cost for you. Thank you and we apologize for the delay and issue. -Jeremy

What does anyone think... Should i just say ok or wait till the SWIFTECH MCP655 is available.

They seem liek they are the same pump and from what read everyone says that too.. But when i read the specs the flow rates are way different... Koolance is only about 1000/lph vs Swiftech is 1500/lph


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*
> 
> Yeah... They started off with the plain model number for their best product and the "revisions" are lesser models. Sort of backwards.
> I will be ordering the whole RX240 kit for my FX-8120 as it is. Seems the simpler way to go. May wind up selling my "extra" used (about 2 months) Raystorm later on in the sell forum.
> Will use my Cougars on the rad since they are rated at 800-1500 rpms. Seems like 1000-1200 is the sweet spot for fans on the RX240. The kit also has the fittings in there so no more guesswork. Will be using XSPC's black tubing.


How are you going to mount the rad? If its on top, I wouldn't use Cougars. All I keep hearing about them is that they make a really annoying noise when mounted horizontally.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> OK SO NOW WHAT....
> I get an email from Performance-PCs saying:
> Update: We're currently out of stock on the Swiftech-branded D5 pumps for these XSPC kits due to manufacturer shortages/delays. If you'd be okay with it, we can upgrade you to the Koolance-branded equivalent, PMP-450, no difference in cost for you. Thank you and we apologize for the delay and issue. -Jeremy
> What does anyone think... Should i just say ok or wait till the SWIFTECH MCP655 is available.
> They seem liek they are the same pump and from what read everyone says that too.. But when i read the specs the flow rates are way different... Koolance is only about 1000/lph vs Swiftech is 1500/lph


Honestly I would ask if they have the official XSPC branded units. XSPC just released their official D5/Raystorm/EX kits, but everyone is still selling their pieced together kits for some reason.


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Honestly I would ask if they have the official XSPC branded units. XSPC just released their official D5/Raystorm/EX kits, but everyone is still selling their pieced together kits for some reason.


I asked them about the XSPC pumps...

As far as I know we will not be carrying the XSPC-branded pumps as the cost per unit is higher than cost for the other branded D5's by a large margin.

So the original question still remains. Should i take the Koolance pump or wait for swiftech


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> How are you going to mount the rad? If its on top, I wouldn't use Cougars. All I keep hearing about them is that they make a really annoying noise when mounted horizontally.


Actually I am planning on a top build and you are right about the noise. Of the 4 Cougars I have on hand, only one of them is making that annoying sound. I plan on going only PUSH for now. Otherwise I will use the XSPC 1650rpm fans for the time being or my YL HS's.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Honestly I would ask if they have the official XSPC branded units. XSPC just released their official D5/Raystorm/EX kits, but everyone is still selling their pieced together kits for some reason.


Exactly...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> So the original question still remains. Should i take the Koolance pump or wait for swiftech


Check my PM out... ;-)


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*
> 
> Actually I am planning on a top build and you are right about the noise. Of the 4 Cougars I have on hand, only one of them is making that annoying sound. I plan on going only PUSH for now. Otherwise I will use the XSPC 1650rpm fans for the time being or my YL HS's.


The XSPC fans are actually pretty good. I replaced them in push with GT AP-15's and there wasn't much of a difference at all. Barely noticed a noise difference. Not sure on the temperature difference... My temps have actually been higher, but my ambient has gone up over the past week as well with summer rolling in.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> The XSPC fans are actually pretty good. I replaced them in push with GT AP-15's and there wasn't much of a difference at all. Barely noticed a noise difference. Not sure on the temperature difference... My temps have actually been higher, but my ambient has gone up over the past week as well with summer rolling in.


I actually had a question on the last page, are all the XSPC fans the same on all their kits? how noisy are they at full load and at what speed do you leave them(speed you find ideal)
how are you connecting them? via molex or directly to your motherboard or a fan controller? if you are using molex, how loud are they ?


----------



## Kahbrohn

If I am not mistaken, there are 1200, 1650 and 2000 RPM fans. You'd want to use the 1200/1650 fans with the RX rads and the 1650/2000 fans on the RS & EX rads if I remember correctly. Has to do with the FPI count. The more FPI, the more rpm's you'll need. The RX "kits" that come out of XSPC I believe come with the 1650 rpm fans (check here).

The 1200 rpm claims to be @ 22 db. The 1650 rpm fan @ 29 db. The 2000 rpm fan states 35 db. Average home sound level is about 50 db. I always say manufacturers quote on the low side of things when it comes to noise... so I tack on an extra 10% for good measure. I have a good feeling that the 2000 rpm fan is probably right around the Yate Loon medium speed fan noise performance or so... if that is a reference for you.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> I asked them about the XSPC pumps...
> As far as I know we will not be carrying the XSPC-branded pumps as the cost per unit is higher than cost for the other branded D5's by a large margin.
> So the original question still remains. Should i take the Koolance pump or wait for swiftech


Here is a comparison of the different "D5" based pumps including the Koolance. The difference seems to be the top portion of the pumps that deals with pressure and such. Seems like the Koolance do perform a bit below the Laing D5 reference pump that the XSPC kits ship out with if I am understanding those charts correctly. The question would be... is it enough variance to make any real noticeable difference? If one pump is more powerful than the other, can I select one higher speed to match?


----------



## TheBirdman74

How about the RS240 Kit? I think they come with 1650 - 1700RPM fans? What do you think of that and hows every one connecting their fans(stock ones at least)? Do you connect then via molex or just to the motherboard? just wondering if they will be too loud if connected via molex or should I connect them to my motherboard and leave it there or if I need a fan controller now?


----------



## Kahbrohn

RS is being phased out by the EX as far as I have read but I believe the EX is more efficient that the RS based on it's construction.

Fans... I normally connect to the mobo so I have some degree of control over them through bios or other fan speed controlling software. If you connect to the molex, then it's 100% duty service unless (and usually lots and lots of noise) you insert some sort of fan controller or something. Read your mobo owners manual to see what the max wattage you can place on the mobo fan header connector. Then see how many fans you can have on the same fan header. To get this info on the fan, multiply the fans amps time 12 (volts). That gives you the fans wattage.

Ex. My 12 volt high speed Yate Loons are rated at .30 amps. 12 volts X .3 amps duty rate = 3.6 watts. My mobo can handle up to 18 watts per fan header so that means I can "safely" plug up to 5 high speed Yate Loons to the same fan header on my mobo.

Ex. GT AP-15 fan has .083 amps. 12 V X .083 A = .993 watts. I could place all 6 AP-15 fans on a 360 rad for push pull and have them running at speeds closer to each other that way by connecting them to the same fan header.

As you can see, out of the two examples, the YL's are power hogs in comparison to AP-15's.







In essence I would spend more on electricity than I could save in terms of temperature difference of 1-2 degrees C by going Push/Pull. So I am shying away from Push/Pull for now and keeping my money.







I believe rule of thumb is now push for low FPI rads and pull on high FPI rads. Someone correct me if I am wrong...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*
> 
> Is it clear tubing? How long have you had the kit installed with the stock tubing? I remember back when I first got my RASA kit that the tubing it came with clouded up within a month.
> I may just run the Vortex fans and see how that goes.They are 800-1500 rpm fans so I think they can be adjusted easily enough. Color's not a real issue for me. Once I close up my case, i really dont look inside it again until cleaning time. But I will admit, I have been tempted to paint those suckers red.


I used the clear tubing for a short time but now have the XSPC hi flex UV blue.
The fans that come with the RX rads are 1650 and they are plenty for that rad.

Someone said about performance-pcs being out of Swiftech D5's, I ordered a variable D5 with the G1/4 threads today from Sidewinder.
I like peformance pcs cause they're close but I get hit for sales tax since I live in Florida, but everything gets here quick.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I used the clear tubing for a short time but now have the XSPC hi flex UV blue.
> The fans that come with the RX rads are 1650 and they are plenty for that rad


Did you switch out the tubing for pure looks or did it start to "plasticize" on you?


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> I actually had a question on the last page, are all the XSPC fans the same on all their kits? how noisy are they at full load and at what speed do you leave them(speed you find ideal)
> how are you connecting them? via molex or directly to your motherboard or a fan controller? if you are using molex, how loud are they ?


I'm not completely sure. I had the XSPC 1650's just hooked up to molex and they were barely audible up close and I could not hear them in my case from maybe a meter way. I'm using a fan controller for the AP-15's right now. I might add the XSPC's in pull the next time I disassemble the loop. ( I only unmounted the rad when I was replacing the fans and it was a giant pain in the arse.)


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*
> 
> Did you switch out the tubing for pure looks or did it start to "plasticize" on you?


Looks, really, but I had run some uv blue fluid and it stained the clear tubing, so I can't really tell you. OTOH the XSPC hi flex uv blue looks good so far.
I'm actually thinking about going black on my new build, and I like the norprene if it didn't have the writing on the tubing.

Oh yeah, about the XSPC fans, I guess they are supposed to be 1650 rpm but I think around 1570 was all I could get out of them. But they cooled the RX240 just fine.
I'm now using Yate Loon UV blue + Phobya spacers on top. The medium Yate Loon is about the same as the XSPC fans.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Looks, really, but I had run some uv blue fluid and it stained the clear tubing, so I can't really tell you. OTOH the XSPC hi flex uv blue looks good so far.
> I'm actually thinking about going black on my new build, and I like the norprene if it didn't have the writing on the tubing.
> Oh yeah, about the XSPC fans, I guess they are supposed to be 1650 rpm but I think around 1570 was all I could get out of them. But they cooled the RX240 just fine.
> I'm now using Yate Loon UV blue + Phobya spacers on top. The medium Yate Loon is about the same as the XSPC fans.


Ok... As far I have been able to read up on, the RX rads seem to work best around the 900-1200 RPM range.

Here is a test done by Martins Liquid. This Skinee review points at the same result. In them you will see that the RX rad shines up to around 1000 RPM. After that it starts to loose ground. Slowly at first but more noticeable after 1400 rpm's. I have read forum posts though that at around 1500 rpm they have done well. But based on these hands on reviews, you may want to play around with your fan speeds a bit. Who knows? You may just increase cooling efficiency and lower noise levels in the process! That's every WC'ers dream.

The idea is that with lower FPI rads, you want the air flow to slow down so it has a better chance of "picking up" the heat trapped in the rad and taken away. If the air is flowing too fast on a low FPI rad, then there's less of a chance to pick up the maximum amount of heat from the rad. Higher finned rads require faster air flow to compensate for the fin density I guess.

(Even though the test is on an RX360, it should hold true for the RX240 which has the same construction)


----------



## mandrix

Getting an order list together for the Switch build. I found posts with RX240 vs EX360, but Is the EX360 comparable to the RX360? Or would the RX360 edge it out with a little better performance?
As far as flow, shouldn't be a problem, I have a modded D5 coming and for a while will probably be cpu + 1 gpu loop. Might add another rad, though.

Eh, never mind. Ordered a RX.


----------



## Kokin

EX does better than the RX at higher fan speeds. The RX begins to lose to the EX at about 1400-1600RPM and is surpassed once the 2000+ RPM speeds are reached.

The EX does moderately well at the lower fan speeds (800-1200RPM), but it does lose to the RX by a few degrees, which may be negligible to some.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Just ordered the RX240/Raystorm kit from Jab-Tech. Going to initially use the XSPC fans to see how it goes. If not happy will splurge on AP-15's I guess.

I agree with Kokin. The way I see it, if you value a quieter system, then the RX may be your way to go. If sound is not the biggest factor but space is and you prefer a push/pull system to gain that extra degree or two, then I'd say go with the EX.


----------



## Yukss

argghhhhh my pump dies again........!!!!!!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> EX does better than the RX at higher fan speeds. The RX begins to lose to the EX at about 1400-1600RPM and is surpassed once the 2000+ RPM speeds are reached.
> The EX does moderately well at the lower fan speeds (800-1200RPM), but it does lose to the RX by a few degrees, which may be negligible to some.


Thanks, I found Martin's testing and surmised as much. Anyway it's going in the top of a Switch so I should be good.


----------



## Yukss

I feel SO sad, angry, is this happening again ?? why?? my first pump, the ine that came with my rasa 360 kit died on me after just 2 months, i call fronzen cpu and then directly to xspc japan an after a week later i got my replacement, which indeed was pretty fast consediring that it came from japan, i was happy, but yesterday, after 6 months, i was about to play bf3 CQ and i click the coretemp icon (i do this always before play in order to check my temp un my logitech g15 screen) and POPPPP, all 4 temps were at 100c and my face was







inmediatly power off my pc and i though ohh noo, it happend again, i recheck the conections, changed the molex and nothing, i took a DEEP breath and say aloud....is really HARD to me this, because i live in venezuela and now i have to buy it again and WAIT the shippement which is about 2 weeks (after a year my warranty is now dead)

here some pics of my nigthmare


----------



## Kahbrohn

Yukss... but the number of months only add up to 8. I believe you have a 12 month warranty, correct?

Try writting to this guy. He is the big boss at XSPC in China. He has helped me in the past. Explain to him what has happened and let's see what he says. He helps out as long as the tone of the message is pleasant. I know it may be hard, but they do value customer satisfaction.

Dah Zhong, e-mail: [email protected]


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*
> 
> Yukss... but the number of months only add up to 8. I believe you have a 12 month warranty, correct?
> Try writting to this guy. He is the big boss at XSPC in China. He has helped me in the past. Explain to him what has happened and let's see what he says. He helps out as long as the tone of the message is pleasant. I know it may be hard, but they do value customer satisfaction.
> Dah Zhong, e-mail: [email protected]


thx, that was the guy who sent me the replacement.. exactly 11 months 29 day ago... what a casuality


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> thx, that was the guy who sent me the replacement.. exactly 11 months 29 day ago... what a casuality


As long as you get the e-mail in BEFORE the 12 month mark, you should be good. Ask... never hurts. Otherwise, damn... Knowing how tough things are in Venezuela, if you can pay for it, I'd suggest this:



It costs about $135 (+/-580 Bs. F. if I am not mistaken). It looks good and the D5 variable speed pump is an excellent choice. It's a bit pricey but I am sure you will have a pump/res that will last you a long time. It also saves on space inside your rig.

Off-Topic: Think Hugo will win the elections?


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn*
> 
> As long as you get the e-mail in BEFORE the 12 month mark, you should be good. Ask... never hurts. Otherwise, damn... Knowing how tough things are in Venezuela, if you can pay for it, I'd suggest this:
> 
> It costs about $135 (+/-580 Bs. F. if I am not mistaken). It looks good and the D5 variable speed pump is an excellent choice. It's a bit pricey but I am sure you will have a pump/res that will last you a long time. It also saves on space inside your rig.
> Off-Topic: Think Hugo will win the elections?


Thx.. i have about 200 $ to spend...

ps.. i HOPE hugo wont win


----------



## Ganf

Question: Anyone know if the new D5 bay pump is compatible with Mayhem's aurora dyes yet? The old ones aren't...


----------



## greg1184

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33590

For the raystorm kit over here performance-pc gives me the option to customize. What size fittings should I get for the UV Blue tubing offered there?


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33590
> For the raystorm kit over here performance-pc gives me the option to customize. What size fittings should I get for the UV Blue tubing offered there?


I went with the 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD Just seem to be a common fitting to find unlike the 7/16.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33590
> For the raystorm kit over here performance-pc gives me the option to customize. What size fittings should I get for the UV Blue tubing offered there?


i got 1/2 xspc black chrome fittings from them, and use 7/16 primochill tubing, that way i don't need to use clamps at the ends, looks much cleaner that way to me.


----------



## RJacobs28

anyone know of some good fans for these kits. The stock ones seem a little loud...
(can you get away with PWM fans for WC'ing?)


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> anyone know of some good fans for these kits. The stock ones seem a little loud...
> (can you get away with PWM fans for WC'ing?)


"GOOD FANS" are very subjective. i'm using the new corsair SP120 high performance fans and am very happy with them, but someone else might think they are too loud (i can't hear them over the ceiling fan in my office on medium). for me, trial and error is really the only way to find out what fans are good for you. if you have room, you can always buy a high speed fan, and install a fan controller to slow them down until you get to a volume of noise that your comfortable with. as for PWM fan, they work fine, but usually are optimal for wc as they tend to yo-yo in speed as the water warms and cools, but again, this may be something you have to experience to determine to see if this is an issue for you.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> anyone know of some good fans for these kits. The stock ones seem a little loud...
> (can you get away with PWM fans for WC'ing?)


You can use PWM fans for WC. Just check with the Asus what their current ratting for the fan headers are before you go stuffing more then one on their.

A good fan in my opinion for price/quality/looks/performance are Bitfenix I have their Spectre Pro LED's.

They are whisper quiet at full speed and move enough air for the XSPC rad's.


----------



## RJacobs28

Was looking at the Spectre Pro's or CoolerMaster SickleFlow's now that I've had a better look - Both would perform equal or better while being quieter?


----------



## chinesethunda

i personally love the coolermaster blademasters for my rad, they are pwm AND they have amazing static pressure


----------



## RJacobs28

Can someone have a quick peek at the specs for me? SickleFlow looks better to me...

CM Sickle Flow

BitFenix Spectre Pro

Cheers.


----------



## chineytt

SUP BUDDIES!!! I was away for a while. But I am back in the game!

http://www.ptclangaming.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=95&sid=cc4b67b19af5fd0b0ae453318d4c43d5


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> Can someone have a quick peek at the specs for me? SickleFlow looks better to me...
> CM Sickle Flow
> BitFenix Spectre Pro
> Cheers.


I don't have the Sickle flows, but I do have their "Silent" R4's, which are not so silent at full speed.

The CM fans move more air but are also running at 2,000rpm.

It depends if you want slightly (and I mean slightly) better performance or a quieter machine.

These XSPC rads do not need a lot of air or static pressure.


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> Can someone have a quick peek at the specs for me? SickleFlow looks better to me...
> CM Sickle Flow
> BitFenix Spectre Pro
> Cheers.


I would recommend the Corsair they seem to have helped my current setup with a push and pull on my Thermaltake Bigwater 760 plus by almost 8 Degrees. I am going to be re-purposing them on my EX240. They have a high performance 2000RPM 3.1mm static pressure and a quiet version at 1450RPM with 1.29mm Static pressure

Well I ordered my XSPC Razor 480 block and paid for the item and now they are telling me they are out of stock so instead they are sending me an EK-FC480. I read a few reviews and everyone said they are good blocks but i was wanting to stay as much as XSPC as possible... But I guess they will perform pretty much the same. We will see it will be here next Wednesday. I am still waiting for my kit from Performance-PCs I decided to wait for the Swiftech MCP655. they said they would have some in next week. So hopefully be the end of next weekend i can have the new setup up and running!


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> I feel SO sad, angry, is this happening again ?? why?? my first pump, the ine that came with my rasa 360 kit died on me after just 2 months, i call fronzen cpu and then directly to xspc japan an after a week later i got my replacement, which indeed was pretty fast consediring that it came from japan, i was happy, but yesterday, after 6 months, i was about to play bf3 CQ and i click the coretemp icon (i do this always before play in order to check my temp un my logitech g15 screen) and POPPPP, all 4 temps were at 100c and my face was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> inmediatly power off my pc and i though ohh noo, it happend again, i recheck the conections, changed the molex and nothing, i took a DEEP breath and say aloud is really HARD to me this, because i live in venezuela and now i have to buy it again and WAIT the shippement which is about 2 weeks (after a year my warranty is now dead)
> here some pics of my nigthmare
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL


Yukss, I would be interested in having your help with possibly getting my system OC. You are running an setup that is close to mine. Any help would be appreciated If you could maybe send me a pm when you get a chance. I never bothered with OC because of my cooling issues but now that i have the new kit coming i want to attempt it. I ran the Dummy OC for a little while but it doesn't do enough i went from 2.6GHz Stock to 3.2GHz or so but it seem to run very hot for such a small increase.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Would love to hear if any XSPC users have the stock tubing they aren't using? I am a bit short on tubing, I think its 1/2 for the RS240 barbs? all the local tubing here is crap, so could use about 1 or 2 meters uncut. would gladly pay for shipping costs..


----------



## RJacobs28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Would love to hear if any XSPC users have the stock tubing they aren't using? I am a bit short on tubing, I think its 1/2 for the RS240 barbs? all the local tubing here is crap, so could use about 1 or 2 meters uncut. would gladly pay for shipping costs..


I'm in Aus, don't know what the shipping would be but you're welcome to my 2M.

Edit: actually, bugger it. I haven't done my good deed for the day - if you can stand the wait from Aus I'll cover the shipping. PM with the address if it suits.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> I'm in Aus, don't know what the shipping would be but you're welcome to my 2M.
> Edit: actually, bugger it. I haven't done my good deed for the day - if you can stand the wait from Aus I'll cover the shipping. PM with the address if it suits.


Good on you mate







PMed the address I am staying at.








You wouldn't believe the crap tubing they sell here, I hold it and it kinks and falls over like a flap of meat


----------



## RJacobs28

At work until 8pm tonight, so i'll be down the post office first thing on monday morning for ya!


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> At work until 8pm tonight, so i'll be down the post office first thing on monday morning for ya!


Thank you, really appreciate the help


----------



## greg1184

What the heck is taking FrozenCPU so long to get their stock on some of the Rasa models? Performance-PC already restocked but they charge tax and a buttload for shipping as well.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Thank you, really appreciate the help


If California is closer to you you can have all of mine, I bought some separate black Primochill.


----------



## RJacobs28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> If California is closer to you you can have all of mine, I bought some separate black Primochill.


I got the black Primochill as well, i love it! Such a clean look!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> What the heck is taking FrozenCPU so long to get their stock on some of the Rasa models? Performance-PC already restocked but they charge tax and a buttload for shipping as well.


I thought they only charged tax on Florida shipping addresses? anyway I'm in Florida, get the shipments pretty fast but always have that tax. Actually my stepson lives in that area I thought about having him pick up stuff for me but shipping is cheaper than his gas to North Florida!


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I thought they only charged tax on Florida shipping addresses? anyway I'm in Florida, get the shipments pretty fast but always have that tax. Actually my stepson lives in that area I thought about having him pick up stuff for me but shipping is cheaper than his gas to North Florida!


I do live in florida, and it sucks. Some things are cheaper in PerformancePC compared to FrozenCPU, but with tax it is almost not worth it.


----------



## NASzi

I know i'm waiting for them to put some in stock too, I wanna buy this kit!


----------



## selluminis

There a way to switch out the pump in the dual bay res for the rasa 750 kits?

Also, I have not seen this anywhere and perhaps I missed this question, but I was thinking and wondering the other day.......

Would it be a bad idea to have the pc go into stand by? It seems to me that one would have to keep the water moving through the loop in order to keep the silver from the silver coil circulating, but I wonder. I would hate to set up stand by and then have the loop get all nasty.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> There a way to switch out the pump in the dual bay res for the rasa 750 kits?
> Also, I have not seen this anywhere and perhaps I missed this question, but I was thinking and wondering the other day.......
> Would it be a bad idea to have the pc go into stand by? It seems to me that one would have to keep the water moving through the loop in order to keep the silver from the silver coil circulating, but I wonder. I would hate to set up stand by and then have the loop get all nasty.


Trace amounts of it should be all over your loop, so you should be good. I only use distilled water + Dead water (copper sulfate) and the water is still clean months after use. I do shutdown almost everyday as well.


----------



## selluminis

Okay, I will try it out and see how it works out. Should save some wear and tear on the system.

Edit: Guess I will have to mess with it more later. It went into stand by, then when I hit the button on the mouse the system turned back on, but was crashed. Probably some setting I need to change in bios or something.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Okay, I will try it out and see how it works out. Should save some wear and tear on the system.
> Edit: Guess I will have to mess with it more later. It went into stand by, then when I hit the button on the mouse the system turned back on, but was crashed. Probably some setting I need to change in bios or something.


Check your sleep states in your BIOS, it's either S1 or S3, but I forgot which does which. I know that choosing one of them can possibly cause sleep and hibernation problems, at least it did for my old motherboard.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Well all right!

My RX240 kit came in today!!!

Got me a spanking brand new CM Storm Trooper case to put it in.



Just trying to decide on top or bottom mounting... Hmmm... Thoughts? I can also do a front mount.


----------



## Dranx

'Bout to splooge on a GTX 680 waterblock. Someone quick, tell me if I should wait for the Heatkillers to come back in stock on FrozenCPU, or buy a non-nickel plated EK block. Also, is the backplate worth it? I heard that the blocks are real heavy.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> 'Bout to splooge on a GTX 680 waterblock. Someone quick, tell me if I should wait for the Heatkillers to come back in stock on FrozenCPU, or buy a non-nickel plated EK block. Also, is the backplate worth it? I heard that the blocks are real heavy.


They definitely have some weight to them. You'll probably be okay without it, but I feel a bit safer knowing my 6950 has one.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dranx*
> 
> 'Bout to splooge on a GTX 680 waterblock. Someone quick, tell me if I should wait for the Heatkillers to come back in stock on FrozenCPU, or buy a non-nickel plated EK block. Also, is the backplate worth it? I heard that the blocks are real heavy.


I would wait for Heatkiller to come back in stock. Not that it's a better block, but Eddy (the owner of EK) has pretty much pissed of the watercooling community over the Nickel issue.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> I would wait for Heatkiller to come back in stock. Not that it's a better block, but Eddy (the owner of EK) has pretty much pissed of the watercooling community over the Nickel issue.


? What is the nickel issue?


----------



## greg1184

Quick question: If you turn your computer off or put the computer in sleep/hibernate mode, does the pump still run? Is it meant to run 24/7?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> ? What is the nickel issue?


The nickel plating would stain and corrode despite just using regular distilled water and EK/Eddy did not acknowledge it as their fault, but instead he blamed it on the users and also other companies. They had a formal lab test about this too, but he still did not take the chance to fix the issue. There are now EN Nickel blocks, which are more resistant to the issues, but some people still get the staining and corroding.

Here is the thread about it on OCN:

http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Quick question: If you turn your computer off or put the computer in sleep/hibernate mode, does the pump still run? Is it meant to run 24/7?


It shuts off and it works fine if you do shutoff or decide to run your computer 24/7.


----------



## Costfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Quick question: If you turn your computer off or put the computer in sleep/hibernate mode, does the pump still run? Is it meant to run 24/7?


Nope. Only runs with the computer on unless you hook it up to run like that but no need.


----------



## RJacobs28

Finished toying around with my RS240 Kit today and finally have a picture worth showing.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> Finished toying around with my RS240 Kit today and finally have a picture worth showing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good! i like the relocated lower HD tray. did you cut the bottom off of it to make it fit?


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Looks good! i like the relocated lower HD tray. did you cut the bottom off of it to make it fit?


^this. really lovely.

RJacobs, isn't one crossfire bridge enough for your setup? More pics pls.


----------



## RJacobs28

Quote:


> i like the relocated lower HD tray. did you cut the bottom off of it to make it fit?


Nope, with the Corsair 650D it is easily removed from it's original position and slots right in to the bottom! Gives me a little room to add a 200mm radiator in the front (even with Push/Pull!)
Quote:


> isn't one crossfire bridge enough for your setup?


That's what I thought! but CCC was giving me grief unless they were both connected, so they got sprayed and I just left them there.


----------



## Raafe

I've started to get parts for an upgrade & conversion to water cooling. This will be my first attempt into water cooling and I have some questions after reading pages of forum posts and watching hours of YouTube videos.

I'm still going back and forth between the XSPC Raystorm EX360 and XSPC Raystorm RX360. I'm going to cool just the CPU for now, but may look at GPU cooling in a few years when I replace my video card. My current MSI 6870 doesn't have a full block available and I don't want to use a generic Video block. I know the EX360 will handle the CPU but would I be up a creek if/when I add a GPU block?
Fan controller or splitter wired to the motherboard? I was looking at the Scythe Kaze Master Pro Ace 6-channel controller. I wish it was red to match my case. Should I use a controller at all versus just connecting it to the CPU Fan header on the MB? What's the advantages of both?
Should I leak test in the case or outside, and with the MB installed or not? I've seen videos both ways. I like the idea of doing the leak test outside of the case but then do I take it apart to get it into the case and on the CPU? Seems that would invalidate the test since the connections are redone. If I leak test with the MB then there is an obvious risk. I could assemble to measure the tubing, remove the MB but leave the tubing and leak test in an empty case, then replace the MB and mount the CPU block.
What's the "best" way to drain the system after it's been installed? I could put a T connector and a drain line but if it's so important why is it not in a very good kit? What method do you use?


----------



## RJacobs28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> ]Should I leak test in the case or outside, and with the MB installed or not?


I am by no means an expert, but on this point;

i leak tested externally overnight and after removing all my drive bay covers, was actually able to reinsert the entire loop (Filled) back in through the front! thus, no connections were re-done and the leak test remained valid.

Good Luck!

Edit: Should mention that you need 3 hands to support block, rad & res!


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> I've started to get parts for an upgrade & conversion to water cooling. This will be my first attempt into water cooling and I have some questions after reading pages of forum posts and watching hours of YouTube videos.
> 
> I'm still going back and forth between the XSPC Raystorm EX360 and XSPC Raystorm RX360. I'm going to cool just the CPU for now, but may look at GPU cooling in a few years when I replace my video card. My current MSI 6870 doesn't have a full block available and I don't want to use a generic Video block. I know the EX360 will handle the CPU but would I be up a creek if/when I add a GPU block?
> Fan controller or splitter wired to the motherboard? I was looking at the Scythe Kaze Master Pro Ace 6-channel controller. I wish it was red to match my case. Should I use a controller at all versus just connecting it to the CPU Fan header on the MB? What's the advantages of both?
> Should I leak test in the case or outside, and with the MB installed or not? I've seen videos both ways. I like the idea of doing the leak test outside of the case but then do I take it apart to get it into the case and on the CPU? Seems that would invalidate the test since the connections are redone. If I leak test with the MB then there is an obvious risk. I could assemble to measure the tubing, remove the MB but leave the tubing and leak test in an empty case, then replace the MB and mount the CPU block.
> What's the "best" way to drain the system after it's been installed? I could put a T connector and a drain line but if it's so important why is it not in a very good kit? What method do you use?


1. Just get the EX if you plan on using medium to high speed fans, RX if you want to use low to medium speed fans. You should be OK, with either and add a single GPU.

2. Use a fan controller, it will make your build look a lot cleaner when you are done. You don't want 6 fans plugged into your mobo really anyway, you would have to use splitters, and yeah, it would just get messy.

3. Leak test inside your case, assembled as you plan to run it. Leak testing outside of your case is pointless, as that's not where you are going to be running it, and after you move it inside, something could come loose, or whatever. Just run the loop by itself, with the rest of the machine turned off, and you should be fine. I personally am reckless, and don't even bother really leak testing anymore, not saying you shouldn't, but don't worry yourself to death over it. Just assemble things nice, and snug, and do a bit of leak testing, you should be fine.

4. A T line would be nice, and make draining the loop easier. I'd consider that a "luxury" item, more than a necessity. I don't have one, but it's a PITA to drain my loop, so, if you want to make it easier on your self, consider setting one up. If you don't mind tipping your case over / siphoning water out the res, then don't.


----------



## Kaneda13

(reposting this here form a conversation in another thread, but it seems relevant. this conversation was discussing the pros/cons of adding a second video card to the system as to only has 1 monitor running on the main card)

ok, drum roll please!

so i was able to pick up the card at fry's (last one btw, ordering online before you go get it FTW!). i booted up my machine, let it sit for 1 minute, then launched HW monitor, minimized that and ran 3dmark06. as soon as that finished i got my score and took a screen shot of the score and the temps. after that, i shut down the machine and installed the gt 210. again i booted up the machine, let it sit for 1 minute, launched HW monitor, minimized that and ran 3dmark06. as soon as that finished, i got my score for the second run and the temps, so here you go!

*SINGLE:*









*2 CARDS:*









so, to sum up, we are looking at a difference of 162 3dmarks (well within the variance of the test itself), and a drop in main gpu temps of 14C at load, and 15C at idle, as well as a 1C to 4C drop in cpu temps (this because the main GPU and cpu are on the same water loop). with the information in hand, i can say this is WELL worth the $25 cost of the second card. thoughts?


----------



## greg1184

Finally I am joining the club!
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16071/ex-wat-211/XSPC_Raystorm_EX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Kill_Coil_.html

Just ordered this. Looking forward to getting to work.


----------



## mandrix

This seems strange. A while back I installed the Raystorm, and since I wasn't planning at the time to leave it on this rig I just used the original mounting screws, springs, etc from the Rasa block.
No problems.
Eventually took it off and put the Rasa back on. Recently decided to get another Raystorm for the new build, so today I went to take off the Rasa and reinstall the Raystorm, this time with the mounting gear that came with it. Was a disaster. I couldn't push any of the screws hard enough to get the threads started. Finally I set the Raystorm down and compared the screws/springs with the Rasa ones.
It appears the screws are the same length, but the springs are so stiff they won't compress, at least with the screw not started in the threads, which was impossible. I ended up just reusing the Rasa kit again to reinstall the Raystorm. And yes, the knurled nuts were snugged against the screw head.
Anyone else run into this?


----------



## greg1184

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8384/bus-175/Thermal-Star_LCD_Media_Panel_7-in-1_Card_Reader_Fan_Controller_Temp_Display_TS-T001.html?id=MuZXH7Lf&mv_pc=195
Anyone use this fan controller? It looks nice and has a media reader on it.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Just Wanted to thank everyone for their support and those of you who came forward to help me with the Tubing issue, _RJacobs28_ has actually been very kind and sent me off his unused stock tubing which was big help.







I'm still missing a Kill Coil so if anybody have a good spare one with their kit then let me know, I will gladly pay to take it off your hands.









A Question by the way, How much coolant / liquid does the RS240 take to fill up completely including the radiator and the 1.5m - 2m tubing?. I'm actually going to mount my friends radiator at the bottom of his PC and have some old Thermaltake coolant about 800ml with me so was wondering if that would be enough or might I need to mix and top up some distilled water to the coolant. Any estimates on nearly how much liquid it requires?









Thanks


----------



## RJacobs28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Just Wanted to thank everyone for their support and those of you who came forward to help me with the Tubing issue, _RJacobs28_ has actually been very kind and sent me off his unused stock tubing which was big help.


No problems mate! Hope it all works out for ya!


----------



## RJacobs28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> ^this. really lovely.
> RJacobs, isn't one crossfire bridge enough for your setup? More pics pls.




As Requested!


----------



## chinesethunda

so I drained my case because I was moving my rig around for the summer, however now it is sitting in the case inside the case box without any water. I live in Florida where it can get hot. Should I worry about mold or mildew or stuff like that? There is some water left in my rad/res and I have a killcoil in there but there's air instead of filled with water. I am currently not with my case so I can't do anything about it and I still have another month to go before I can. What should I do when I get back?


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> A Question by the way, How much coolant / liquid does the RS240 take to fill up completely including the radiator and the 1.5m - 2m tubing?. I'm actually going to mount my friends radiator at the bottom of his PC and have some old Thermaltake coolant about 800ml with me so was wondering if that would be enough or might I need to mix and top up some distilled water to the coolant. Any estimates on nearly how much liquid it requires?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I don't think it would be a good idea to run the Thermaltake coolant I was under the impression that was made for their WC systems. With some special additives b/c of the Rads they use. (correct me if I'm wrong but im pretty sure.) I know they use aluminum rads. Might want to look at getting some different coolant or just change to straight Distilled Water and a kill coil. (kill coil only 5/6 USD)


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8384/bus-175/Thermal-Star_LCD_Media_Panel_7-in-1_Card_Reader_Fan_Controller_Temp_Display_TS-T001.html?id=MuZXH7Lf&mv_pc=195
> Anyone use this fan controller? It looks nice and has a media reader on it.


It has some good reviews and some bad but the bad makes me hesitant..
Quote:


> Junk
> 04-21-2012
> Reviewer: Cheap pots and low quality unit (1)
> One of the adjusting controlls broke after a couple months.
> 
> Sending it back!!
> 03-12-2012
> Reviewer: John (1)
> it worked great for a month and then started to break down fan 2 started to have a mind of their own, then fan 3 shut completely down. I''m sending it back and ordering some 3 pin cable extensions so I can plug the fans into my motherboard chassis fan outputs


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> anyone know of some good fans for these kits. The stock ones seem a little loud...
> (can you get away with PWM fans for WC'ing?)


The XSPC fans I got with my RS240 are nice and quiet @ full speed being reported by my controller 1590 - 1620 RPM.


----------



## Krusher33

Has anyone posted of setting up a 240 in a NZXT Beta Evo Classic case? I know Lutro0 did a mod, and I've got another in mind, but I wanna see other possibilities.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> It has some good reviews and some bad but the bad makes me hesitant..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Junk
> 04-21-2012
> Reviewer: Cheap pots and low quality unit (1)
> One of the adjusting controlls broke after a couple months.
> Sending it back!!
> 03-12-2012
> Reviewer: John (1)
> it worked great for a month and then started to break down fan 2 started to have a mind of their own, then fan 3 shut completely down. I''m sending it back and ordering some 3 pin cable extensions so I can plug the fans into my motherboard chassis fan outputs
Click to expand...

I ordered it. So when I get it I will provide a little review.


----------



## Derko1

Anyone have pics of their set ups with multiple GPUs in the loop? I want to see if I can improve anything in my set up. I feel like I'm pumping warm air from the bottom vent where my 120mm rad is. I have no idea where I could move it to though.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> I don't think it would be a good idea to run the Thermaltake coolant I was under the impression that was made for their WC systems. With some special additives b/c of the Rads they use. (correct me if I'm wrong but im pretty sure.) I know they use aluminum rads. Might want to look at getting some different coolant or just change to straight Distilled Water and a kill coil. (kill coil only 5/6 USD)


But I wanted to add some for the color. Like a 50 50 mix.









You are right Thermaltake uses aluminum rads for their systems, but wouldn't the additives in the coolatent actually be beneficial?


----------



## NASzi

Hey guys as soon as the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 is in stock @ frozen cpu i'm going to be ordering it. I'm going to be ordering some Red Primochill tubing to replace the crappy clear tubing and I want to add a drain line, I was thinking I could order this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7443/ex-tub-272/Primochill_12_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c499s745

but my question is, what kind of fittings do I need to stop the water from coming out of the T. I'm assuming that I can just cut another piece of tubing but I can't seem to be able to find a barbed stopper fitting. Can someone help?


----------



## chinesethunda

so I drained my case because I was moving my rig around for the summer, however now it is sitting in the case inside the case box without any water. I live in Florida where it can get hot. Should I worry about mold or mildew or stuff like that? There is some water left in my rad/res and I have a killcoil in there but there's air instead of filled with water. I am currently not with my case so I can't do anything about it and I still have another month to go before I can. What should I do when I get back?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Hey guys as soon as the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 is in stock @ frozen cpu i'm going to be ordering it. I'm going to be ordering some Red Primochill tubing to replace the crappy clear tubing and I want to add a drain line, I was thinking I could order this
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7443/ex-tub-272/Primochill_12_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c499s745
> but my question is, what kind of fittings do I need to stop the water from coming out of the T. I'm assuming that I can just cut another piece of tubing but I can't seem to be able to find a barbed stopper fitting. Can someone help?


run a short piece of hose from this t-fitting to this, problem solved.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> so I drained my case because I was moving my rig around for the summer, however now it is sitting in the case inside the case box without any water. I live in Florida where it can get hot. Should I worry about mold or mildew or stuff like that? There is some water left in my rad/res and I have a killcoil in there but there's air instead of filled with water. I am currently not with my case so I can't do anything about it and I still have another month to go before I can. What should I do when I get back?


i know its a little late now, but having some PT nuke or similar mixed in with the water will prevent it from growing anything next time you have to leave your case like this. as for this time, flush it good with some diluted bleach and hot water, then flush it several times with just water, refill and live happily ever after.


----------



## NASzi

Ok so here's the list of what I want to start off with, BTW I plan on mounting the 360 Rad on the back of my storm enforcer case with the brackets XSPC Provides, I'm going to paint the brackets and fan grills red to match my color scheme

XSPC Rasa 750 RS 360 x 1
PrimoChill Red Tubing x 6 ft
PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils x 1
PrimoChill T for Water Drain x 1
Enzotech Plug for Drain x 1
Bitfenix Fan Splitter x 1
Primoflex Clamps x 3 (Extra)

Total comes out to $189.32, a little over my budget but I think this will do : ) What are your thoughts guys?


----------



## Kaneda13

6ft is WAY to much tubing, you could probably get by with 3ft, always been kinda "meh" with kill coils. i've always used distilled water and a few drops of pt nuke, never had anything grow. also, if you drop down to 1/2" ID hoses, and soak the ends in hot water right before you put them on, you don't need hose clamps (much cleaner look imho). $9 for a fan splitter seems a bit high, but that's a judgement call on your part, do you not have enough headers on your mobo? also, if you have sleeved fans, you can get cheap splitters and just stick them behind the mobo tray.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> 6ft is WAY to much tubing, you could probably get by with 3ft, always been kinda "meh" with kill coils. i've always used distilled water and a few drops of pt nuke, never had anything grow. also, if you drop down to 1/2" ID hoses, and soak the ends in hot water right before you put them on, you don't need hose clamps (much cleaner look imho). $9 for a fan splitter seems a bit high, but that's a judgement call on your part, do you not have enough headers on your mobo? also, if you have sleeved fans, you can get cheap splitters and just stick them behind the mobo tray.


I'm getting 6 ft just to be safe.
Going with the Kill coil because it's free with the Kit, planning on using distilled water
I'm using 7/16" ID hose, that's just a tad big smaller than 1/2", not larger so I know I probably won't need the clamps but I think I might use them just to be safe.
The fan splitter is a 3 way splitter, the only one I can find and I only have 3 ports on my fan controller, 1 port to my light, 1 port to my 2-200mm intake/exhaust fans and the 3rd will be for the rad fans.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to see pictures!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As Requested!


thank you. really nice build - i like it.


----------



## wizarddeath

Ok guys, first foray into Water Cooling.....

This is my starting kit.....

XSPC Raystorm RX360 Extreme Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ RX360 Radiator and Free Kill Coil! Hot item!!

Select Your CPU Block Style: XSPC Raystorm - Intel
Radiator Style: XSPC RX360 Triple 120mm Rev 2
Reservoir Style: XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir
Pump Style: Swiftech MCP655 ($15.00)
Fitting Style: 6 x XSPC - 7/16" x 5/8" Compression-Black Nickel
Select Tubing Color: 8'x XSPC Tubing - UV Blue
Select Fan Speed: 3 x XSPC Radiator Fan-2000 RPM
Select Fluid for Kit: EK Ekoolant - UV Blue - 1L ($14.99)
Select Distilled H20 Additives.: FREE IandH KillCoils - Antimicrobial Silver

Is the blue UV tubing with blue fluid to much? I want it to match my case scheme. I will be running a I5 3570k, and switch 810 case. Will have a blue Asus board w/ wifi go!. Will in the future be adding a GPU that is water cooled. Hopefully to add a T virus type resvoir. Does this seem OK? Do I have everything I am missing? Would you reccomend another fan for the Rad?


----------



## I7guy

the UV blue tubing is pretty dark, you probably wont see the blue fluid


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizarddeath*
> 
> Ok guys, first foray into Water Cooling.....
> This is my starting kit.....
> XSPC Raystorm RX360 Extreme Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ RX360 Radiator and Free Kill Coil! Hot item!!
> Select Your CPU Block Style: XSPC Raystorm - Intel
> Radiator Style: XSPC RX360 Triple 120mm Rev 2
> Reservoir Style: XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir
> Pump Style: Swiftech MCP655 ($15.00)
> Fitting Style: 6 x XSPC - 7/16" x 5/8" Compression-Black Nickel
> Select Tubing Color: 8'x XSPC Tubing - UV Blue
> Select Fan Speed: 3 x XSPC Radiator Fan-2000 RPM
> Select Fluid for Kit: EK Ekoolant - UV Blue - 1L ($14.99)
> Select Distilled H20 Additives.: FREE IandH KillCoils - Antimicrobial Silver
> Is the blue UV tubing with blue fluid to much? I want it to match my case scheme. I will be running a I5 3570k, and switch 810 case. Will have a blue Asus board w/ wifi go!. Will in the future be adding a GPU that is water cooled. Hopefully to add a T virus type resvoir. Does this seem OK? Do I have everything I am missing? Would you reccomend another fan for the Rad?


If you're staying with XSPC tubing I recommend the Hi flex. Seems a bit more flexible than their regular tubing. I have some UV Blue and I don't think adding a colored fluid would do much for it unless you're going super dark look.


----------



## wizarddeath

Is there better tubbing to get? I am totally for adding/subtracting parts, I have a little budget left over.

I just want to make sure I get compatible parts, that I can easy add my GPU(and T virus style res to later) I want to order tomorrow, so all suggestions need to be in! lol


----------



## Costfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizarddeath*
> 
> Is there better tubbing to get? I am totally for adding/subtracting parts, I have a little budget left over.
> I just want to make sure I get compatible parts, that I can easy add my GPU(and T virus style res to later) I want to order tomorrow, so all suggestions need to be in! lol


Tygon and primo flex seem to work well for me.


----------



## blade121

SO yet again my project is on hold... My EX240 kit come in today and the started taking a look at the parts and i started to put my fittings on and the within the first 2 fitting one of the holes on the back of the reservoir the bottom fitting screwed in but the fitting just kept spinning and never got tight(stripped) then i notice the hole was slightly to large im abale to wiggle the fitting and it will come out same as going in.....









Ordered from Performance-PCs.. Just hoping its not going to be a hassle to get it swapped out.. Just having to wait yet again.

Seems i can never get the stuff right the first time. When i orginally ordered they were out of stock for the Swiftech D5 pumps so i had to wait a week for them. Then when they came in they went to ship my order and i got an email saying they are out of stock on the 2000RPM fans so i had to settle for the 1650. And now i got the kit and can't use it..


----------



## TheBirdman74

Just wanted to share something I found out today, since I was shot on coolant I did some measuring and it looks like a meter(1 meter) of 1/2 tubing for the XSPS kit holds about 150 - 170ml of water. So if you used the full 2m of tubing that comes with the kit, the whole kit would need just under 1 liter / 1000ml of coolant. Hope that Helps someone.









ps: anybody know if I am okay mixing the coolant and distilled water? *post #12869*


----------



## I7guy

The xspc Uv blue tubing has served me great


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> SO yet again my project is on hold... My EX240 kit come in today and the started taking a look at the parts and i started to put my fittings on and the within the first 2 fitting one of the holes on the back of the reservoir the bottom fitting screwed in but the fitting just kept spinning and never got tight(stripped) then i notice the hole was slightly to large im abale to wiggle the fitting and it will come out same as going in.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered from Performance-PCs.. Just hoping its not going to be a hassle to get it swapped out.. Just having to wait yet again.
> Seems i can never get the stuff right the first time. When i orginally ordered they were out of stock for the Swiftech D5 pumps so i had to wait a week for them. Then when they came in they went to ship my order and i got an email saying they are out of stock on the 2000RPM fans so i had to settle for the 1650. And now i got the kit and can't use it..


Same thing happened to me. Well, when I was first putting the fittings in it seemed fine... but once I turned on the pump and there was pressure I had a leak. Rather than taking it all apart and waiting for a replacement I just siliconed the fitting in since I'll probably get compressions once I replace the pump anyways.

Haven't had any problems with it since.


----------



## Raafe

Does anyone know how "red" the XSPC UV Red tubing is that is now an option with the new Raystorm kits? I'd like to go red and match the fans in my HAF 932. Orange is not an option!


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> Same thing happened to me. Well, when I was first putting the fittings in it seemed fine... but once I turned on the pump and there was pressure I had a leak. Rather than taking it all apart and waiting for a replacement I just siliconed the fitting in since I'll probably get compressions once I replace the pump anyways.
> Haven't had any problems with it since.


I got the EX Kit so it comes with all compression fittings the reservoir i got is the D5 Res. I guess i could silicone but i just hate to do it and something else later one happens and not be bale to repair it.. Any suggestions?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> Does anyone know how "red" the XSPC UV Red tubing is that is now an option with the new Raystorm kits? I'd like to go red and match the fans in my HAF 932. Orange is not an option!


If you order the kit from Performance-PCs you can get the UV Red


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> I got the EX Kit so it comes with all compression fittings the reservoir i got is the D5 Res. I guess i could silicone but i just hate to do it and something else later one happens and not be bale to repair it.. Any suggestions?


If it's the D5 pump/res, its probably worth returning and getting a new one. I don't think they'll give you much fuss over it considering they sent you a defective res. If Performance PC won't do it, try XSPC directly.


----------



## Raafe

I keep going round and round looking at 5.25" bay fan controllers. I have a HAF 932 with 3 chassis fans and will have a top-mounted 360 rad with 120mmx3 fans for a total of 6 fans. I may not need to connect all of these to a separate controller but definitely want to control the rad fans. Analog dials, sliders, and touch screen seem to be my choices. My case has a black/red theme so I'd like to avoid the blue LED's prevalent in most controllers but I'll live with it for quality/price.

So I'm looking for recommendations, links, and pics!


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> If it's the D5 pump/res, its probably worth returning and getting a new one. I don't think they'll give you much fuss over it considering they sent you a defective res. If Performance PC won't do it, try XSPC directly.


OK I don't feel so bad now I thought it was just me having bad luck. But according to Performance-PCs they have confirmed its not just mine that is messed up.

I sent them a video and photo of the threads.

View My Video

I got back the following email.
Quote:


> Yes we have checked ours in house and at least 10-15% of them have this issue confirmed. We will work with XSPC to get this corrected for future res manufactured.
> Best Regards,
> Customer Service


----------



## Krusher33

So what happens now? You have to send back yours and they'll send a good one?


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> So what happens now? You have to send back yours and they'll send a good one?


I don't know just yet that's what im waiting to find out... I got this feeling its going to be some big long drawn out process... I will keep everyone updated b/c i know there are some new people on here that just bought this kit and might get a bad one also. They just haven't got it in from shipping yet.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> I keep going round and round looking at 5.25" bay fan controllers. I have a HAF 932 with 3 chassis fans and will have a top-mounted 360 rad with 120mmx3 fans for a total of 6 fans. I may not need to connect all of these to a separate controller but definitely want to control the rad fans. Analog dials, sliders, and touch screen seem to be my choices. My case has a black/red theme so I'd like to avoid the blue LED's prevalent in most controllers but I'll live with it for quality/price.
> So I'm looking for recommendations, links, and pics!


Lamptron FC8 lets you change the LED colors. No visual readouts, though.


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> I keep going round and round looking at 5.25" bay fan controllers. I have a HAF 932 with 3 chassis fans and will have a top-mounted 360 rad with 120mmx3 fans for a total of 6 fans. I may not need to connect all of these to a separate controller but definitely want to control the rad fans. Analog dials, sliders, and touch screen seem to be my choices. My case has a black/red theme so I'd like to avoid the blue LED's prevalent in most controllers but I'll live with it for quality/price.
> So I'm looking for recommendations, links, and pics!


I personally like the Lamptron FC9, can't wait to get one myself. Only 4 channels but with 50 watts per channel the possibilities are endless. Ability to change colors is just a bonus.


----------



## TheBirdman74

how do you guys tighten the stock fittings so that they don't come lose?? I noticed when the hoses are attached and I try to move them a bit the stiffness of the hose itself moves and loosens and unscrews the fittings.









Are you guys using teflon tape or some silicon sealant on the barbs? teflon just seems messy and sealant would make it close presently, so how are you doing it? just tightening it with your fingers or applying some torque with a wrench or pliers or something? if it starts unscrewing itself because of the tubes then its a bit worrying for me since it might cause a water spill.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> how do you guys tighten the stock fittings so that they don't come lose?? I noticed when the hoses are attached and I try to move them a bit the stiffness of the hose itself moves and loosens and unscrews the fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you guys using teflon tape or some silicon sealant on the barbs? teflon just seems messy and sealant would make it close presently, so how are you doing it? just tightening it with your fingers or applying some torque with a wrench or pliers or something? if it starts unscrewing itself because of the tubes then its a bit worrying for me since it might cause a water spill.


Besides the one fitting on my res that I mentioned was sealed with silicon, I just tightened then with a plier and they're fine. Make sure to tighten them before putting on the tubes though.

A wrench probably would have worked better as the pliers scuffed up the barbs but you can't really see it anyways.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> Besides the one fitting on my res that I mentioned was sealed with silicon, I just tightened then with a plier and they're fine. Make sure to tighten them before putting on the tubes though.
> A wrench probably would have worked better as the pliers scuffed up the barbs but you can't really see it anyways.


Thanks, Reps +








I have a small adjustable wrench that should fit, if it does then I will give it a bit torque(not too tight tho right?) or maybe I'll just use my pliers covered with some clothing to protect the shiny finishing on the barbs


----------



## Skyboss

So what's the general agreement? Is primochill tubing still best? I have some and I want to redo my loop in my RS240 kit. Thus, I need to buy more. The current primochill tubing I used looks cloudy. I was going to get Tygon but now I'm not sure which brand tubing to get. I want 1/2"iD and 3/4"OD still but I want the tubing to fit well with my BP compression fittings too. This primochill tubing is really hard to fit into the compression fittings. Any suggestions?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyboss*
> 
> So what's the general agreement? Is primochill tubing still best? I have some and I want to redo my loop in my RS240 kit. Thus, I need to buy more. The current primochill tubing I used looks cloudy. I was going to get Tygon but now I'm not sure which brand tubing to get. I want 1/2"iD and 3/4"OD still but I want the tubing to fit well with my BP compression fittings too. This primochill tubing is really hard to fit into the compression fittings. Any suggestions?


I haven't had any problems with Masterkleer and as far as I know, Tygon is the best for tubing. Most clear or translucent/colored tubing will eventually cloud and even solid ones, so there isn't much you can do to avoid it aside from getting plasticizer-free tubing. I just recently bought the XSPC compression fittings and they work perfectly on 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing.


----------



## Derko1

I will be rearranging my set up and I wanted to add another 120mm rad to where I have the exhaust fan. Would I be able to safely do it without putting too much stress on the pump? This is my set up... RX360 rad up top.


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> Besides the one fitting on my res that I mentioned was sealed with silicon, I just tightened then with a plier and they're fine. Make sure to tighten them before putting on the tubes though.
> A wrench probably would have worked better as the pliers scuffed up the barbs but you can't really see it anyways.


It also depends on the fittings you are using. My XSPC Compression fittings have a notch in the top that allows for a Flathead screwdriver to fit in and tighten without messing up the threads or the compress sleeve.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> I will be rearranging my set up and I wanted to add another 120mm rad to where I have the exhaust fan. Would I be able to safely do it without putting too much stress on the pump? This is my set up... RX360 rad up top.


The 1 pump can go through all that? Wow...


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> The 1 pump can go through all that? Wow...


I guess it depends on the pump he's using.

The stock XSPC pump that comes with the kit is probably at about its limit. Not that adding another small rad is really gonna hurt, I wouldn't have thought, as they offer very little restriction.

If he is using the stock pump, I'd get those GPUs cooled in Parallel and a new, much less restrictive, CPU block to help the pump out.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> I guess it depends on the pump he's using.
> The stock XSPC pump that comes with the kit is probably at about its limit. Not that adding another small rad is really gonna hurt, I wouldn't have thought, as they offer very little restriction.
> If he is using the stock pump, I'd get those GPUs cooled in Parallel and a new, much less restrictive, CPU block to help the pump out.


Yup, I'm using the stock pump. So you think it'd be a bad idea to add the other Rad as it is?


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> The 1 pump can go through all that? Wow...


I didn't realize my set up was revolutionary... to me it looked like a lot of the ones everyone else has...


----------



## Krusher33

I just recently subbed to this thread just recently to get an idea of what it can do and what issues people have. And so I was surprised to see in the first pic since my sub that it can do that. I kinda was thinking it can only do what the kit provides.


----------



## Derko1

Ah! I see.... yea, it's crazy, once you do it and go through the process, it's soooo much easier to understand. There's tons of stuff that's easier to find out through what other people experience though. Like my question above!


----------



## NASzi

frozen CPU just listed the RASA 240 as orderable so I ordered my kit, Ordered my primo chill red tubing and other accessories last night. Should be watercooled in the next couple of weeks. Next Purchase, XSPC Razor Block for my GTX 680!


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Yup, I'm using the stock pump. So you think it'd be a bad idea to add the other Rad as it is?


You'll probably be fine as rads offer very little restriction.

I'm also running the stock pump, on CPU 2 GPUs and two Rads and its doing ok, however my GPUs r in parallel and I swapped my Rasa for a Raystorm which at the time was the least restrictive block you could buy.


----------



## Derko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> You'll probably be fine as rads offer very little restriction.
> I'm also running the stock pump, on CPU 2 GPUs and two Rads and its doing ok, however my GPUs r in parallel and I swapped my Rasa for a Raystorm which at the time was the least restrictive block you could buy.


I didn't want to do parallel for the GPUs cause I read an article that found that in series they cooled more... but I can see why it would be more beneficial for flow.


----------



## selluminis

Running 240 +360 rad and cpu + 2 x gpu off of the stock 750 pump. It is at it's limits though. Will be looking into a new pump before too much longer.


----------



## Raafe

Into a HAF 932, I want to cool my CPU only for now but with the ability to add a GPU block in the future. XSPC Raystorm EX360 kit plus PrimoChill red tubing, a T for a drain line with plug, and fan controller for rad and case fans. Any feedback is welcome.


XSPC Raystorm EX360 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ D5 Variant Pump
Swiftech MCP655 Variable Speed
EK Ekoolant - Clear - 1L
IandH KillCoils - Antimicrobial Silver

PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - 10ft Retail Pack - UV Red (PFLEXP10-758-R)
Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Red
Enzotech G1/4" Barb Stop Fitting w/ Cap - 1/2" ID - Matte Black (BNPH-ID1/2-G14)
Lamptron 50W - 4 Channel Aluminum Throttle Style Fan Controller w/ Multi Color Backlit LEDs - Black (FC-9)
Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve 3-Pin to 3x 3-Pin Y Cable Splitter - 60cm - Black (BFA-MSC-3F33F60KK-RP)


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> Into a HAF 932, I want to cool my CPU only for now but with the ability to add a GPU block in the future. XSPC Raystorm EX360 kit plus PrimoChill red tubing, a T for a drain line with plug, and fan controller for rad and case fans. Any feedback is welcome.
> 
> XSPC Raystorm EX360 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ D5 Variant Pump
> Swiftech MCP655 Variable Speed
> EK Ekoolant - Clear - 1L
> IandH KillCoils - Antimicrobial Silver
> 
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - 10ft Retail Pack - UV Red (PFLEXP10-758-R)
> Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Red
> Enzotech G1/4" Barb Stop Fitting w/ Cap - 1/2" ID - Matte Black (BNPH-ID1/2-G14)
> Lamptron 50W - 4 Channel Aluminum Throttle Style Fan Controller w/ Multi Color Backlit LEDs - Black (FC-9)
> Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve 3-Pin to 3x 3-Pin Y Cable Splitter - 60cm - Black (BFA-MSC-3F33F60KK-RP)


That's pretty much identical to what I just bought except for the fact that I got the RS 240


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> Into a HAF 932, I want to cool my CPU only for now but with the ability to add a GPU block in the future. XSPC Raystorm EX360 kit plus PrimoChill red tubing, a T for a drain line with plug, and fan controller for rad and case fans. Any feedback is welcome.
> 
> XSPC Raystorm EX360 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ D5 Variant Pump
> Swiftech MCP655 Variable Speed
> EK Ekoolant - Clear - 1L
> IandH KillCoils - Antimicrobial Silver
> 
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - 10ft Retail Pack - UV Red (PFLEXP10-758-R)
> Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Red
> Enzotech G1/4" Barb Stop Fitting w/ Cap - 1/2" ID - Matte Black (BNPH-ID1/2-G14)
> Lamptron 50W - 4 Channel Aluminum Throttle Style Fan Controller w/ Multi Color Backlit LEDs - Black (FC-9)
> Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve 3-Pin to 3x 3-Pin Y Cable Splitter - 60cm - Black (BFA-MSC-3F33F60KK-RP)


If you want to use lower speed fans on your radiator, you can easily fit a RX360 into the top, even in push/pull. Up to you though.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> Into a HAF 932, I want to cool my CPU only for now but with the ability to add a GPU block in the future. XSPC Raystorm EX360 kit plus PrimoChill red tubing, a T for a drain line with plug, and fan controller for rad and case fans. Any feedback is welcome.
> 
> XSPC Raystorm EX360 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ D5 Variant Pump
> Swiftech MCP655 Variable Speed
> EK Ekoolant - Clear - 1L
> IandH KillCoils - Antimicrobial Silver
> 
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD with 3/32" Wall - 10ft Retail Pack - UV Red (PFLEXP10-758-R)
> Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Red
> Enzotech G1/4" Barb Stop Fitting w/ Cap - 1/2" ID - Matte Black (BNPH-ID1/2-G14)
> Lamptron 50W - 4 Channel Aluminum Throttle Style Fan Controller w/ Multi Color Backlit LEDs - Black (FC-9)
> Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve 3-Pin to 3x 3-Pin Y Cable Splitter - 60cm - Black (BFA-MSC-3F33F60KK-RP)


932 advanced should have plenty of room up there. Had that before getting my switch.


----------



## TheBirdman74

So can I use the Thermaltake coolant I have and mix it 50/50 with distilled water and use it with the XSPC Rasa? I want to use it since it will add some color. is it safe or will I have issues later on?


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> So can I use the Thermaltake coolant I have and mix it 50/50 with distilled water and use it with the XSPC Rasa? I want to use it since it will add some color. is it safe or will I have issues later on?


Lots of people use different coolants and dies. I personally prefer to use colored tubing and straight distilled water. The die adn color you your blocks. Some people have even said that it can gum up your loop. Not sure on that one. It would probably depend on the quality of the die.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selluminis*
> 
> Lots of people use different coolants and dies. I personally prefer to use colored tubing and straight distilled water. The die adn color you your blocks. Some people have even said that it can gum up your loop. Not sure on that one. It would probably depend on the quality of the die.


agreed, colored tubing and distilled water with a few drops of pt nuke. also, the less light you have getting into the water, the less likely anything will try to grow in it.


----------



## Derko1

So I figure I'd spam my project here and in my other threads. I'm sure it'll be useful to someone.









The purpose of what I asked in two other threads was in regards to how about getting it done. I looked everywhere for set ups similar to mine in a HAF-922 and found nothing!

So this is what it looked like before, I wanted to switch the hoses of the 360 rad to go down the center, so I could cut down on how much tubing was between everything.


Ugly hoses in the back:


Where I would be doing the cutting into the case:


One issue I saw right away... is the space that was between the fan/rad and the bulge the case has, there is the rubber grommet I would be using to protect the tubing from the sharp edges of the hole:


I used a step drill, as was suggested to me in another thread. It is very simple to drill with it. I had the little ledge to deal with, which was kind of a pain, with patience I got through into it:


I used a magnet to collect debree that would be coming out the top and then I taped up all of the holes from the top of the case, to not have anything flying into it. I then used a baggy that the new rad came in and taped it to where I was drilling the holes. That way everything would fall inside. It worked perfectly!:



Test fitting and making sure the holes line up:


Started with the other hole...:


Thankfully... my test fitting and measuring ensured that the hoses fit almost perfectly. I did have to cut a few pieces off the bulge of the case where the hoses touch it... so that there would be no contact with them at all. Then the grommet laid flat enough to not interfere with mounting the the top piece.








I hope this is useful to someone that may have the same case... or at least get ideas on what this kit can do. I was able to get around 3-4C lower on all temps. GPUs idle at 26C, CPU at 29C. Load temps for both are GPU at 37C and CPU between 57C-60C. Using a 1.45 Vcore.


----------



## vite0150

Wow! nice build


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*


Oh my gosh what a difference! And added another rad? Nice work!


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> So I figure I'd spam my project here and in my other threads. I'm sure it'll be useful to someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The purpose of what I asked in two other threads was in regards to how about getting it done. I looked everywhere for set ups similar to mine in a HAF-922 and found nothing!
> So this is what it looked like before, I wanted to switch the hoses of the 360 rad to go down the center, so I could cut down on how much tubing was between everything.
> 
> Ugly hoses in the back:
> 
> Where I would be doing the cutting into the case:
> 
> One issue I saw right away... is the space that was between the fan/rad and the bulge the case has, there is the rubber grommet I would be using to protect the tubing from the sharp edges of the hole:
> 
> I used a step drill, as was suggested to me in another thread. It is very simple to drill with it. I had the little ledge to deal with, which was kind of a pain, with patience I got through into it:
> 
> I used a magnet to collect debree that would be coming out the top and then I taped up all of the holes from the top of the case, to not have anything flying into it. I then used a baggy that the new rad came in and taped it to where I was drilling the holes. That way everything would fall inside. It worked perfectly!:
> 
> Test fitting and making sure the holes line up:
> 
> Started with the other hole...:
> 
> Thankfully... my test fitting and measuring ensured that the hoses fit almost perfectly. I did have to cut a few pieces off the bulge of the case where the hoses touch it... so that there would be no contact with them at all. Then the grommet laid flat enough to not interfere with mounting the the top piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this is useful to someone that may have the same case... or at least get ideas on what this kit can do. I was able to get around 3-4C lower on all temps. GPUs idle at 26C, CPU at 29C. Load temps for both are GPU at 37C and CPU between 57C-60C. Using a 1.45 Vcore.


Beautiful mod right here. This rally looks great. Now do something with the fan wires.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Spoilers people, please









Nice work


----------



## mandrix

@ Derko1, I did this a while back.


----------



## Derko1

Nice! Your's looks way cleaner there than mine. I cut out two of the strips to get them in there. How's the rest of your set up look? My main issue was how everything looks inside... I couldn't find anyone with crossfire set ups in that case.


----------



## MrPerforations

hello,
iam looking at buying the xspc 240 rad kit,two things how much fluid would i need to fill the kit up approximately please?
and dose it come with a multi fan header please?

i quiz on the 360 rad,dose it come with a mounting kit for a rear 120 fan port please?


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPerforations*
> 
> hello,
> iam looking at buying the xspc 240 rad kit,two things how much fluid would i need to fill the kit up approximately please?
> and dose it come with a multi fan header please?
> i quiz on the 360 rad,dose it come with a mounting kit for a rear 120 fan port please?


You can just buy a gallon of distilled water at a grocery store or pharmacy for less than $2. That will be more than enough.

I don't understand your question about the 360 rad...


----------



## greg1184

I have the Raystorm E360 kit, i installed everything. Everything seems fine except it seems to drip at the resivoir right at the Oring part of the pump. Everything else is perfectly fine. I cant tighten the O-ring anymore. Am I doing something wrong? Pump is running fine, it is not leaking anywhere else. Just at the Oring where the swiftech pump is.


----------



## Kokin

Just in case anyone was wondering if putting 2 XSPC Rasa Universal GPU blocks in parallel works, here is a small update. :3

Here is a before shot: (note I had the inlet/outlet reversed on the blocks all these months







)




Here are some shots I took a few days ago:






I will have a massive update for my worklog hopefully sometime this upcoming week.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I have the Raystorm E360 kit, i installed everything. Everything seems fine except it seems to drip at the resivoir right at the Oring part of the pump. Everything else is perfectly fine. I cant tighten the O-ring anymore. Am I doing something wrong? Pump is running fine, it is not leaking anywhere else. Just at the Oring where the swiftech pump is.


any leak, however small, needs to be stopped. replace the o-ring.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derko1*
> 
> Nice! Your's looks way cleaner there than mine. I cut out two of the strips to get them in there. How's the rest of your set up look? My main issue was how everything looks inside... I couldn't find anyone with crossfire set ups in that case.


I notched out the plastic ridged piece with a dremel. I've actually moved the radiator back into the case, it's a RX240 so it fits OK. I'm working on a new build and will eventually have to move the HAF to another spot and needed the extra clearance.
I'm running crossfire 6850's but they are not water cooled. The HAF 922 has been my workhorse / experiment lab, lol. As many times as I've had the sides on/off lesser cases would have folded by now.
Right now all the peripheral power connections are sort of just shoved behind the res because I've been working on my other project. Besides, I will probably pull everything out again and piddle with something.









EDIT: there is another HAF 922 somewhere on OCN that has the top notched, he did his before me.
I think somewhere in this thread I posted stuff about hole sizes, Orings I used, how I cut the holes, etc a while back.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> any leak, however small, needs to be stopped. replace the o-ring.


Guess I have to contact frozen cpu RMA the pump/reservoir then.

Anyone else have this leak problem with the Raystorm kit/Swiftek MCP655B?


----------



## greg1184

I give it another chance this morning and the leak is suddenly gone. I dont know if it expanded or somthing...... Or maybe I have a self fixing pump and o-ring









I am running 24/7 leak test now. So far so good.

Edit: I still feel some wetness below the o-ring, though its not as bad as yesterday. I am going to call frozen cpu to see what I should do.


----------



## chinesethunda

makes me wanna put more rads in my case lol


----------



## swirusek

Hi
Question:
Will RS 360 rad cool my 1090T (will b oc'ed after i install the kit) and factory oc'ed GTX460- i be using Raystorm block for GPU
or
Do i need 2nd rad between CPU and GPU
or
I just get RX 360? which is little over my pocket money now

Thanks


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swirusek*
> 
> Hi
> Question:
> Will RS 360 rad cool my 1090T (will b oc'ed after i install the kit) and factory oc'ed GTX460- i be using Raystorm block for GPU
> or
> Do i need 2nd rad between CPU and GPU
> or
> I just get RX 360? which is little over my pocket money now
> Thanks


You should be fine with the RS360. No need for a second rad, but you could go for the RX if you want to use slower speed fans.


----------



## StarvinMarvin

I've been toying with the idea of getting one of these kits, figured I'd post this here first..

Does anyone have this kit in a Lancool PC-K62 case?

I'd Like to keep modding of the case to a minimum, can the rs240 rad fit up top or do I have to put some serious dremel work in. I'd prefer to have the rad completely inside the case.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StarvinMarvin*
> 
> I've been toying with the idea of getting one of these kits, figured I'd post this here first..
> Does anyone have this kit in a Lancool PC-K62 case?
> I'd Like to keep modding of the case to a minimum, can the rs240 rad fit up top or do I have to put some serious dremel work in. I'd prefer to have the rad completely inside the case.


First, you can measure it. The RS240's measurements are 121x35x277mm (WxDxH). add 38mm to the height for fans or 76 if you want to go push/pull.
The mounting holes on the rad are placed the same as a 120mm fan. So, if you can mount 2 - 120mm fans to the top of your case, you should be able to mount it.


----------



## Raafe

I can fit either the EX360 or the RX360 rad in my case. Looking at the 2 Raystorm kits I see the reservoirs are different. Is there any benefit to one over the other? I like the black res in the EX360 kit with the pump on the outside and I think it would allow for more liquid in the res when compared to the EX360 kit res.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> I can fit either the EX360 or the RX360 rad in my case. Looking at the 2 Raystorm kits I see the reservoirs are different. Is there any benefit to one over the other? I like the black res in the EX360 kit with the pump on the outside and I think it would allow for more liquid in the res when compared to the EX360 kit res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I believe the The RX360 res you showed has the weaker pump, while the EX360 has the D5 variant. I would go for whichever has the D5.


----------



## swirusek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> You should be fine with the RS360. No need for a second rad, but you could go for the RX if you want to use slower speed fans.


Thank you for info
I would go RX but i already have my loop in my mind and with RX i cant put rad fittings in front of a case without loosing 2 bays
I could still use one of the bays for fan controller but other bay would b useless
With RS i loose one bay which i can still use to put fan controller in it
I dont like tubes running across the case from res to back of the case to the rad
I want to make it as clean as i can without too much tubing


----------



## greg1184

Theres the droplets coming from the o-ring.

I have tried reseating the pump and that doesn't work. The O-ring is as tight as I can put it. I called frozen cpu and the guy told me to email a person regarding it. Hopefully they end up sending me a replacement. I went with this more expensive kit so I could avoid leaks. Hopefully the replacement doesn't have the same problem.


----------



## Raafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I believe the The RX360 res you showed has the weaker pump, while the EX360 has the D5 variant. I would go for whichever has the D5.


Despite the difference in pumps shown in the pics, frozencpu.com lists both kits with the same pump. So looking only at the reservoir is there any reason to get one over the other beside simply looks?


----------



## swirusek

I have an idea running 3/8id x 1/2 od copper tubing ( http://www.lowes.com/pd_43501-76063-6362406759806_0__?productId=3134485&Ntt=copper+coil&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo= ) inside 1/2id x5/8od tubing ( http://www.lowes.com/pd_19945-104-SVKI10_0__?productId=3132255&Ntt=clear+tubing&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo= ) with my rasa RS360 kit



I think copper piping would work like mini rad as long as there is fan blowing at it - i can be wrong here
plus i would never have to be worry about kinks or anything like that

Question: will it work as i think it will or it isnt worth it to even try it ?
Wont it mess with flow due to the smaller id of copper tubing?
What you guys think?

Thanks


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swirusek*
> 
> I have an idea running 3/8id x 1/2 od copper tubing ( http://www.lowes.com/pd_43501-76063-6362406759806_0__?productId=3134485&Ntt=copper+coil&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo= ) inside 1/2id x5/8od tubing ( http://www.lowes.com/pd_19945-104-SVKI10_0__?productId=3132255&Ntt=clear+tubing&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo= ) with my rasa RS360 kit
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think copper piping would work like mini rad as long as there is fan blowing at it - i can be wrong here
> plus i would never have to be worry about kinks or anything like that
> Question: will it work as i think it will or it isnt worth it to even try it ?
> Wont it mess with flow due to the smaller id of copper tubing?
> What you guys think?
> Thanks


well, i see a few issues with this. the copper pipe will be inside the tubing, so how is a fan going to blow on it? looking at my water cooling loop, i don't have any section of hose that's perfectly straight more than a few inches long. overall, i really don't see any benefit to this, i think it would work as a minor restriction, and introduce additional material into the loop. nice thought though, just not seeing the benefit.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raafe*
> 
> Despite the difference in pumps shown in the pics, frozencpu.com lists both kits with the same pump. So looking only at the reservoir is there any reason to get one over the other beside simply looks?


My apologies, I looked at the RX360, not the Raystorm RX360, missed the "Raystorm" some how.








I don't personally have experience with either one of those, but offhand I would say no. Best bet is to keep asking if you're concerned.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swirusek*
> 
> Thank you for info
> I would go RX but i already have my loop in my mind and with RX i cant put rad fittings in front of a case without loosing 2 bays
> I could still use one of the bays for fan controller but other bay would b useless
> With RS i loose one bay which i can still use to put fan controller in it
> I dont like tubes running across the case from res to back of the case to the rad
> I want to make it as clean as i can without too much tubing


I gotcha. I have 6 slots in my bay so it wasn't too bad for me.

I sent you a PM by the way, let me know.


----------



## mandrix

Do any w/c fittings exist for SAE copper tubing? I know B Negative has some neat looking chrome plated copper tubing, but I think the UK metric sizing is different from what's available in the US?
I would love to do chrome plated copper, might be hard to find here though.


----------



## General123

Could i run my 670 off of a RX120?
block> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15718/ex-blc-1097/HEATKILLER_GPU-X_GTX_680_LT_Reference_Design_Full_Coverage_Water_Block_13105.html?tl=g30c311s1631
Kit> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16127/ex-wat-215/XSPC_Rasa_450_RX120_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c321s1310
Will be mounting it in the back of my case
Thanks.
Btw my card has a reference 680 pcb.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General123*
> 
> Could i run my 670 off of a RX120?
> block> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15718/ex-blc-1097/HEATKILLER_GPU-X_GTX_680_LT_Reference_Design_Full_Coverage_Water_Block_13105.html?tl=g30c311s1631
> Kit> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16127/ex-wat-215/XSPC_Rasa_450_RX120_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> Will be mounting it in the back of my case
> Thanks.
> Btw my card has a reference 680 pcb.


Are you only running the 670? Not your CPU?

If so, I'm not sure how hot 670 run but it should be okay... You may be able to piece something together that would be cheaper/better since you wouldn't need the CPU block.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General123*
> 
> Could i run my 670 off of a RX120?
> block> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15718/ex-blc-1097/HEATKILLER_GPU-X_GTX_680_LT_Reference_Design_Full_Coverage_Water_Block_13105.html?tl=g30c311s1631
> Kit> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16127/ex-wat-215/XSPC_Rasa_450_RX120_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> Will be mounting it in the back of my case
> Thanks.
> Btw my card has a reference 680 pcb.


It would work if you're going to continue using the H100 for your CPU. You can always sell off the H100 in the future and get a better 240mm rad and add your CPU to the loop.


----------



## General123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> Are you only running the 670? Not your CPU?
> If so, I'm not sure how hot 670 run but it should be okay... You may be able to piece something together that would be cheaper/better since you wouldn't need the CPU block.


Alright i will thanks.
And yes only the 670, my h100 handles my cpu fine, i dont really feel the need to hit past 5ghz atm
Thanks again.


----------



## NASzi

Getting ready for my kit, more than likely i'm going to be mounting the rad and the fans on top of my case so I drilled some holes on top to run my fan wires through so you can't see them dangling outside of the case, as soon as my kit gets here i'm going to measure where I need to cut for my my tubing. I think it's looking pretty good so far.


----------



## greg1184

I am such a noob. Turns out the thing was leaking because the rubber o-ring was missing. It must have fell when i transferred the pump to the reservoir. Put the o-ring on, turned it on, no leaks at all.


----------



## mikailmohammed

will a RX 360 kit cool an intel i5 3570k and 7950?


----------



## SacredChaos

Finally after 3months I stopped being lazy in installed my RX360 kit. Took me 5 hours, but it was well worth it. Temps of CPU never go above 61c in Prime, and GPU didn't exceed 45c while playing BF3 for a couple hours. Not to mention my computer is whisper quiet now!


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SacredChaos*
> 
> Finally after 3months I stopped being lazy in installed my RX360 kit. Took me 5 hours, but it was well worth it. Temps of CPU never go above 61c in Prime, and GPU didn't exceed 45c while playing BF3 for a couple hours. Not to mention my computer is whisper quiet now!


How did you wait so long? I could barely wait for the parts to arrive... I can't imagine having them sitting there in front of my for 3 months.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I am such a noob. Turns out the thing was leaking because the rubber o-ring was missing. It must have fell when i transferred the pump to the reservoir. Put the o-ring on, turned it on, no leaks at all.


That will let it leak every time









At least it is all good.


----------



## chinesethunda

I am so tempted to put my GPU in my loop, but not sure if I feel like shelling out 120-150 bucks for a gtx680 block =/


----------



## SacredChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> How did you wait so long? I could barely wait for the parts to arrive... I can't imagine having them sitting there in front of my for 3 months.


Basically just laziness and not having enough spare time. I am glad I chose to get it done tho.


----------



## mikailmohammed

Do any of you get leaks often? I am a noob by the way in water cooling


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Do any of you get leaks often? I am a noob by the way in water cooling


Not since my mishap with the res. So long as you leak test, you're good.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> I am so tempted to put my GPU in my loop, but not sure if I feel like shelling out 120-150 bucks for a gtx680 block =/


Worth it. Even if not for performance reasons, having a silent ccomputer is just wonderful.


----------



## SacredChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> I am so tempted to put my GPU in my loop, but not sure if I feel like shelling out 120-150 bucks for a gtx680 block =/


I did, and it is totally worth it!


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Do any of you get leaks often? I am a noob by the way in water cooling


Other than my stupid blunder, my build is flawless.

Compression fittings are just awesome. I highly recommend them. My first water build and it does not leak.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> Worth it. Even if not for performance reasons, having a silent ccomputer is just wonderful.


This is so true. Having it idle in the low 30s and load at the low 40s while having silent operation is so satisfying.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Compression fittings are just awesome. I highly recommend them. My first water build and it does not leak.


I recommend XSPC ones for 1/2ID 3/4OD, they work very well and look nicer than the bigger compressions. They go for $4 a pop, so it's much cheaper than other compressions.


----------



## blade121

Well today is the day! My new reservoir should be in today with a few other little goodies! Hope to get some pics up of the build with some before and after pictures!


----------



## wizarddeath

Got my Raystorm last night, and they sent the new back plate, different from what I saw in the manual. Is anyone using this? It fits, and confirmed. Just making sure.


----------



## NASzi

My RS240 kit will be here tomorrow. Can anyone tell me how many screws come with the radiator? I just swung by the hardware store and picked up some 6-32 screws of different lengths because i'm not sure how i'm going to be mounting my fans/radiator but I was just wondering what comes with the unit.


----------



## blade121

Spoiler: BEFORE :/











Spoiler: AFTER! XD




I know i want to change the GPU connections to the top but when i purchased everything i forgot to include some spacers so the compression fittings wouldn't fit at the top so i improvised.





I am very happy with the Temps of my system now. Especially the GPU, idles at about 36-40 on load it peaks at about 65. The CPU is idling at about 43-45 (a little higher than i was expecting) but is still lower than they were before. I haven't ran prime95 just yet on the system still breaking it in. My loop setup: Pump/Res -> CPU -> Rad -> GPU -PUMP/Res.

I'm wondering if the temps being higher on the CPU is because of the way the loop is ran. I feel like the heat/hot water coming from the GPU on a load is then just being pushed to the pump which in turn is going right back to the CPU hot. Any suggestions on if i should change the loop around.

EDIT: GPU and CPU are at stock clocks.


----------



## Kokin

^Your new look is definitely nicer and the Corsair fans add a nice touch to the color scheme. I would have gone for the cleaner look: res/pump>rad>CPU>GPU>res and have the tubing come up from the GPU instead of the bottom.

Btw, I think I'm using the same blue/black extensions, where did you get the 8pin 12V EPS extension?


----------



## jared872

RS240 on the way! The kit should be here tomorrow. Will post pictures and comparison to my current H60.


----------



## NASzi

my kit came in today, will be running leak tests outside of the case all night tonight and all day tomorrow, hopefully will get a couple of hours to install it tomorrow night! Wish me luck!


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> my kit came in today, will be running leak tests outside of the case all night tonight and all day tomorrow, hopefully will get a couple of hours to install it tomorrow night! Wish me luck!


I feel you're better off doing it in the case. Unplug everything except the pump and jump the powersupply. It's going to be a huge PITA to get it all in there and connected while its already connected and possibly full of water unless you drain it.


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> ^Your new look is definitely nicer and the Corsair fans add a nice touch to the color scheme. I would have gone for the cleaner look: res/pump>rad>CPU>GPU>res and have the tubing come up from the GPU instead of the bottom.
> Btw, I think I'm using the same blue/black extensions, where did you get the 8pin 12V EPS extension?


Yeah i was going to put the GPU tubing on the top but i forgot to order my spacers. When i get them in i will move them to the top. That is the reason the tubing is so long going from the rad -> GPU -> Pump.

The extensions came from PPC. I wish i would of bought a longer one for my min but i thought the 8" would work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> I feel you're better off doing it in the case. Unplug everything except the pump and jump the powersupply. It's going to be a huge PITA to get it all in there and connected while its already connected and possibly full of water unless you drain it.


I did mine in the case all connected and only powered was the PSU


----------



## NASzi

Loops has been leak testing for a few hours, only thing is the pump seems quite a bit loud, is this normal?


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Loops has been leak testing for a few hours, only thing is the pump seems quite a bit loud, is this normal?


I couldn't see your water level well, but just about fill it and see if that helps.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> I couldn't see your water level well, but just about fill it and see if that helps.


it is/was filled all the way, almost spilling out of the fill port. I even raised the reservoir so that when I filled it the water would leak into the components so when I started the loop the first time, everything was full of water so I know the pump was never ran without any water. Good news is when I woke up this morning it seemed to have quieted down a little bit. It's not so bad anymore. I Left it running so i'll check it in about 10 hours when I get home from work.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> I feel you're better off doing it in the case. Unplug everything except the pump and jump the powersupply. It's going to be a huge PITA to get it all in there and connected while its already connected and possibly full of water unless you drain it.


What i'm doing is a leak test on the components first, what if the block wasn't sealed properly and when I started my loop water started squirting everywhere, then i'd have to pull everything out of my case which I do not want to get into. As long as all of my components aren't leaking I'm pretty confident that my tubing/barb connections won't leak but i'm def. gonna run a leak test for a few mins before I power up my PC once I get everything installed into it. Plus that clear tubing i'm testing with is not what i'm going to use, i bought some red primo chill tubing.


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> What i'm doing is a leak test on the components first, what if the block wasn't sealed properly and when I started my loop water started squirting everywhere, then i'd have to pull everything out of my case which I do not want to get into. As long as all of my components aren't leaking I'm pretty confident that my tubing/barb connections won't leak but i'm def. gonna run a leak test for a few mins before I power up my PC once I get everything installed into it. Plus that clear tubing i'm testing with is not what i'm going to use, i bought some red primo chill tubing.


You kind of wasted your time then. :/ Your blocks aren't really going to be leaking, it'll be your fittings and tubes if they are not properly secured.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> What i'm doing is a leak test on the components first, what if the block wasn't sealed properly and when I started my loop water started squirting everywhere, then i'd have to pull everything out of my case which I do not want to get into. As long as all of my components aren't leaking I'm pretty confident that my tubing/barb connections won't leak but i'm def. gonna run a leak test for a few mins before I power up my PC once I get everything installed into it. Plus that clear tubing i'm testing with is not what i'm going to use, i bought some red primo chill tubing.


Best way I've found to leak test is to install everything as it will be. When you ordered your kit it should have come with a plug for your 24 pin cable that will jump-start the PSU. If you unplug your motherboard, drives, GPU's and fans you can put that plug on and the only thing that will run is your pump. You then take an old newspaper, lay it out, and then lay your case on it's side with the side panel off, that way if there are any leaks it drips straight down to the newspaper where you can see it, and typically all of your components stay completely dry. Even if they do get a little wet, they had no electricity running through them, so you can just give them 24 hours to dry and plug them back in.

But honestly, your fittings are where you're going to find leaks almost every time. From what I've seen it's only closed loops that tend to have problems with leaky blocks or rads right from the manufacturer.


----------



## Krusher33

Don't remember where but someone just posted today that their EK block was defective and leaked.

(just saying)


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Don't remember where but someone just posted today that their EK block was defective and leaked.
> (just saying)


This is why I wanted to leak test everything, If I spent 2 hours installing this **** and something leaked and I was unable to use my PC while I was waiting on an RMA, I would have been pissed


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Don't remember where but someone just posted today that their EK block was defective and leaked.
> (just saying)


Problem might be that it was an EK block....

Just sayin'...


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quick question guys

I'm using 7/16ID - 5/8OD tubing, now my question is, can I use this size tubing on Compression fittings that are 1/2 ID - 5/8 OD safely?

I'm after some 45Degree rotary fittings and I'm really struggling to find compression fittings that match my tube size. I've used this tubing over 1/2 Barbs, just not sure if the compression fitting bit that screws over the top of the tubing would be OK?

Cheers


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Quick question guys
> I'm using 7/16ID - 5/8OD tubing, now my question is, can I use this size tubing on Compression fittings that are 1/2 ID - 5/8 OD safely?
> I'm after some 45Degree rotary fittings and I'm really struggling to find compression fittings that match my tube size. I've used this tubing over 1/2 Barbs, just not sure if the compression fitting bit that screws over the top of the tubing would be OK?
> Cheers


In theory you should be OK to use 1/2x5/8 tubing on the compression fittings, but never having done this myself I can not say with 100% conviction.

Try it out of the case and just see what happens, that way you will empower all of us with the knowledge.


----------



## Kaneda13

Took the case into work today and dusted it out, so nice and clean...


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Quick question guys
> I'm using 7/16ID - 5/8OD tubing, now my question is, can I use this size tubing on Compression fittings that are 1/2 ID - 5/8 OD safely?
> I'm after some 45Degree rotary fittings and I'm really struggling to find compression fittings that match my tube size. I've used this tubing over 1/2 Barbs, just not sure if the compression fitting bit that screws over the top of the tubing would be OK?
> Cheers


You'll have less problems with leaks than someone using the correct size of fitting. You're using tubing with a thicker wall that's going to grab the barb tighter.Might want to use some soapy water when tightening the fitting though, as you may scratch the tubing otherwise since it'll be a tighter fit.


----------



## NASzi

And here she is... Can I join the club now?


----------



## Quccu

I bought the Rasa 750 RX240 kit over a year ago and it came with CPU mounting brackets for LGA 775, 1156, 1366.

Am I able to use any of those if i upgrade to 1155? Or do I have to purchase something additional?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quccu*
> 
> I bought the Rasa 750 RX240 kit over a year ago and it came with CPU mounting brackets for LGA 775, 1156, 1366.
> Am I able to use any of those if i upgrade to 1155? Or do I have to purchase something additional?


Pretty sure you will find the 1156 and 1155 sockets use the same bracket systems.


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Pretty sure you will find the 1156 and 1155 sockets use the same bracket systems.


Correct. You can find all over the internet that is the case...Just like the Raystorm states in its manual. The brackets are no different (i know the raystorm is a different block but I'm stating they use the same bracket for both 1155 and 1156)


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quccu*
> 
> I bought the Rasa 750 RX240 kit over a year ago and it came with CPU mounting brackets for LGA 775, 1156, 1366.
> Am I able to use any of those if i upgrade to 1155? Or do I have to purchase something additional?


1156 and 1155 use the same mounting holes, so it will work just fine.


----------



## toricred

I just got the RS240 kit. I'm new to WC and I'm a little confused on installing the radiator. I am installing this in an HAF 922. I want to mount the rad external on the top of the case. I think external should get better airflow and thus cooling.

I see the rad comes with some o-rings, but I don't understand where they go. Help?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toricred*
> 
> I see the rad comes with some o-rings, but I don't understand where they go. Help?


There intended purpose is to be used as vibration insulators between the rad mount brackets and the case.


----------



## jared872

Can I join the club now??

Well I have everything installed. All of these temps are at 3.9 GHz with 1.43 Vcore. I will definitely be pushing farther!

H60 Temps:

Idle:33 C
Load: 59 C

RS240 Kit Temps:

Idle: 28 C
Load: 45 C

As you can see there is a huge improvement! I will be adding some water wetter to my loop because it should help lower temps also PLEASE SEE LAST PICTURE FOR AMATEUR ALERT!!!!!





After having mind boggling high temps at idle it dawned on me, I feel like an id10t


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jared872*
> 
> Can I join the club now??
> Well I have everything installed. All of these temps are at 3.9 GHz with 1.43 Vcore. I will definitely be pushing farther!
> H60 Temps:
> Idle:33 C
> Load: 59 C
> RS240 Kit Temps:
> Idle: 28 C
> Load: 45 C
> As you can see there is a huge improvement! I will be adding some water wetter to my loop because it should help lower temps also PLEASE SEE LAST PICTURE FOR AMATEUR ALERT!!!!!
> 
> 
> After having mind boggling high temps at idle it dawned on me, I feel like an id10t


Lmao you forgot to remove the plastic, nice setup though


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jared872*
> 
> Can I join the club now??
> Well I have everything installed. All of these temps are at 3.9 GHz with 1.43 Vcore. I will definitely be pushing farther!
> H60 Temps:
> Idle:33 C
> Load: 59 C
> RS240 Kit Temps:
> Idle: 28 C
> Load: 45 C
> As you can see there is a huge improvement! I will be adding some water wetter to my loop because it should help lower temps also PLEASE SEE LAST PICTURE FOR AMATEUR ALERT!!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After having mind boggling high temps at idle it dawned on me, I feel like an id10t


Now push that 1090T harder, 3.9Ghz is nice but bring it alive above 4.1Ghz









Maybe a little TLC on cable management, then take some more pics, your rig looks like it has some serious capabilities.


----------



## toricred

Thanks for the help. I have installed the radiator, but I am a little concerned with how it is configured at the moment. I have the two fans inside the case on the top pushing out. The rad is on the outside on top. I am not yet ready to do push pull as I don't have four identical fans yet. In order to protect the rad on top should I put the fan grills on directly or should I put my old sickleflow fans on until I get a matching set?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toricred*
> 
> I just got the RS240 kit. I'm new to WC and I'm a little confused on installing the radiator. I am installing this in an HAF 922. I want to mount the rad external on the top of the case. I think external should get better airflow and thus cooling.
> I see the rad comes with some o-rings, but I don't understand where they go. Help?


I didn't see any major differences in temperature mounting outside. I had mine on top for a while but moved it back inside. Mine is the RX240 might be cause it's a bigger radiator. If you use a large fan on the side grill the 922 has decent airflow.
But if you do put it on top there's some pics somewhere in this thread where you can see what I did if you want to mount yours the same way. I notched out the plastic piece up top so I could drill holes for the tubing and put grommets in.
Poor old HAF 922, I've had this apart sooo many times, these things are built like a tank!
I'm gonna leave it alone now in peace and work on the Switch. lol.


----------



## toricred

I looked at your old pics and I love the look. I had been planning on bringing the tubing out the pre-cut holes in back, but yours looks better. I guess it's time to get a hole cutter and start modding the case.


----------



## mandrix

Sure, it's not hard. I got the idea from another member so I can't take credit. The step drill would be nice but I used a 7/8" hole saw and it worked out alright.


----------



## zerocraft

Are these the correct stock fans for these kits ? http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercomputers/xsxi12mm29db.html

Wanted to get 3 more to do push pull


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocraft*
> 
> Are these the correct stock fans for these kits ? http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercomputers/xsxi12mm29db.html
> Wanted to get 3 more to do push pull


that looks like them, those are the ones that came with my RS 240 kit


----------



## Phaedrus2129

Is the Rasa 750 RS360 in stock anywhere? Looking to get one for a 2600k and a 670 FTW.


----------



## 10speedr

performance-pcs seems to have the rasa 360 kit in stock


----------



## toricred

So I changed my mind again on how to mount my radiator. Here's a picture. By hanging on top on the mounting brackets, but pushing it off the back it should have enough room to use the built-in holes for the tubing.

2012-07-02_18-03-05_448.jpg 903k .jpg file


----------



## jared872

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Now push that 1090T harder, 3.9Ghz is nice but bring it alive above 4.1Ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a little TLC on cable management, then take some more pics, your rig looks like it has some serious capabilities.


Well no luck with 4.1. Apparently this chip sucks and maxes out at 4.0. No amount of voltage will get it stable at 4.1


----------



## ginger_nuts

Bugga


----------



## colindj1120

Hey guys Im looking into building a 2900 budget watercooling build here in the next month or two and I am starting to do some research on what I should get for it. You can find the thread I started here http://www.overclock.net/t/1277046/2900-budget-wc-build/10#post_17613175 It details in the thread what I will be using it for and some of the requirements I need to meet for the build any helps appreciated thanks


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colindj1120*
> 
> Hey guys Im looking into building a 2900 budget watercooling build here in the next month or two and I am starting to do some research on what I should get for it. You can find the thread I started here http://www.overclock.net/t/1277046/2900-budget-wc-build/10#post_17613175 It details in the thread what I will be using it for and some of the requirements I need to meet for the build any helps appreciated thanks


I would figure out the main stuff first... components and case... then figure out the WC stuff in another thread. That's just me though.


----------



## joeyxl

so my loop is in reverse. what i mean is the water goes like this

RES>RAD>CPU>RES

is that bad?


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyxl*
> 
> so my loop is in reverse. what i mean is the water goes like this
> RES>RAD>CPU>RES
> is that bad?


loop order shouldn't matter too much (very few degrees, 1-2, if anything) as long as you have res>pump>whatever.. if you have the full rasa kit, it's not an issue as the pump is in the res so you should be good to go.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> loop order shouldn't matter too much (very few degrees, 1-2, if anything) as long as you have res>pump>whatever.. if you have the full rasa kit, it's not an issue as the pump is in the res so you should be good to go.


Well guys i've been running my rasa kit for a few days now and I must say i'm a little disappointed. Mainly at my idle temps, my V6 GT would have my 2500k Idling at about 31 C with a 4.4 OC, with this kit the lowest it goes is about 33 C, i can say however that I def. notice a difference on my load temps, usually while playing COD my process would stay around 54 C, it now hovers around 45 or so. I dunno maybe I just need to give the AS 5 a few days to cure. Any thoughts?


----------



## Krusher33

Idle temps are never accurate.


----------



## pvt.joker

give it a couple days for the AS5, if you still see higher temps you might want to try and reseat the cpu block.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Well guys i've been running my rasa kit for a few days now and I must say i'm a little disappointed. Mainly at my idle temps, my V6 GT would have my 2500k Idling at about 31 C with a 4.4 OC, with this kit the lowest it goes is about 33 C, i can say however that I def. notice a difference on my load temps, usually while playing COD my process would stay around 54 C, it now hovers around 45 or so. I dunno maybe I just need to give the AS 5 a few days to cure. Any thoughts?


Idle temps represent nothing, just like what Krusher33 said.

It is load temps that matter.


----------



## greg1184

Finally begun overclocking my 3770k. Currently at 4.2ghz.

My temps are currently in the low-mid 50s.

I notice that sometimes my temps creep up into the 60s but then subsequently lower down to the 50s.

This is with the EX360 with a push setup with the XSPC fans. I have the 200mm coolermaster fans on top of my HAF X.


----------



## mandrix

You might get as much as 4.4 w/o increasing vcore. I don't remember now but either 4.4 or 4.5 before I had to start increasing V.


----------



## toricred

Leak testing now. There's not even a hint of a leak for 15 minutes and almost all air bubbles are gone. Unfortunately I cut the tubing to and from the reservoir a little too long. Before filling the system I tried to remove from the barbs and shorten, but I couldn't get it off the barb. I'm going to worry about that when I get around to replacing the tubing in a couple of months.

Pictures coming soon.


----------



## Krusher33

Can one take a hairdryer to blow at the tubing to get it off the barbs?


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You might get as much as 4.4 w/o increasing vcore. I don't remember now but either 4.4 or 4.5 before I had to start increasing V.


Yeah I am at 4.3 now testing at 1.20v, high LLC. Temps about the same. If stable I will go to 4.4.


----------



## toricred

2012-07-04_10-30-15_547.jpg 760k .jpg file


2012-07-04_10-30-40_66.jpg 1249k .jpg file


Pics. They're not great and the whole system looks marginal at best, but this is my first foray into water cooling.

i7-3820 1.06v 3.6ghz, idle 21C, Load (10 runs of IBT at High stress) Highest core 56C and CPU High at 45C, ambient 19C. It will hit 36 or 37 ambient this afternoon. Should be interesting to see how it does then.


----------



## greg1184

Now up to 4.5 and my temps are holding in the 60s on Prime95 blend. I love this cooling system. It is almost as if the higher I go the better it becomes.


----------



## Krusher33

Not to be a kill joy but that how temperature programs works. The closer you get to the CPU's max the more accurate it becomes. That's why a lot of us says "idle temps don't matter".

But I'm glad to hear you're having great success. It makes me feel better about replacing my H60 with the 240 kit someday.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Not to be a kill joy but that how temperature programs works. The closer you get to the CPU's max the more accurate it becomes. That's why a lot of us says "idle temps don't matter".
> But I'm glad to hear you're having great success. It makes me feel better about replacing my H60 with the 240 kit someday.


Thanks I am making observations by making comparisons of 100% load temps from base clock to overclocked. I don't know how accurate Coretemp is and I don't care. Using the same program comparing to Air-cooling, the water cooling system is holding its own nicely as I go up 100mhz at a time. It has a very nice temp threshold. I am up to 4.6ghz with 1.230v currently running in the 60s again. Max was in the 70s but most of the time in the 60s.


----------



## Krusher33

That's the kind of story I'm looking for.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Not to be a kill joy but that how temperature programs works. The closer you get to the CPU's max the more accurate it becomes. That's why a lot of us says "idle temps don't matter".
> But I'm glad to hear you're having great success. It makes me feel better about replacing my H60 with the 240 kit someday.


Yes. Like Krusher says the nearer to ambient temps the less accurate the motherboard sensors are. But that's true for a lot of sensor types, that is having a lower range that is off quite a bit but being MOL optimized for a critical range.


----------



## greg1184

Regardless, I noticed that after i left it on prime95 overnight my temps went down to the low-mid 60s after being high 60s/low 70s overnight. As I said before, I don't care about the "accuracy." I am comparing my experiences of the behavior of temps with air vs water. Thanks.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Regardless, I noticed that after i left it on prime95 overnight my temps went down to the low-mid 60s after being high 60s/low 70s overnight. As I said before, I don't care about the "accuracy." I am comparing my experiences of the behavior of temps with air vs water. Thanks.


Its great that your enjoying your new cooling, a lot of guys are a little underwhelmed with their CPU temps after they've upgraded to WC, especially if you've come from a highend HSF. What did you upgrade from?

Also the more you OC the more the WC starts to flex its cooling muscles so yes it will appear as if its getting better


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Its great that your enjoying your new cooling, a lot of guys are a little underwhelmed with their CPU temps after they've upgraded to WC, especially if you've come from a highend HSF. What did you upgrade from?
> Also the more you OC the more the WC starts to flex its cooling muscles so yes it will appear as if its getting better


I came from the Thermalright Ultra Elite 120. Awesome air cooler.

I had a core i7 920 but it did not overclock as well as this processor. I could not get past 3.8ghz. With ivybridge I am stable right now at 4.7ghz with my temps in the low-mid 60s. I could try to go higher but I know I am going to have to throw in the vcore.


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I came from the Thermalright Ultra Elite 120. Awesome air cooler.
> I had a core i7 920 but it did not overclock as well as this processor. I could not get past 3.8ghz. With ivybridge I am stable right now at 4.7ghz with my temps in the low-mid 60s. I could try to go higher but I know I am going to have to throw in the vcore.


I have a 920 D0 that i can get 4.0ghz but I didn't like the temps. I was getting about 75c or so under load and that's just too high for my liking. So now im running about 3.3 and still under load getting 60's. But I have really high ambient temps in my computer room so that doesn't help. Running a EX240 and Raytorm CPU block and a GPU GTX480 block.


----------



## jam3s

Hey guys...

I just got word the my RX240 kit is at home waiting for me!

Probably going to install tonight. I've done WC in the past, once with a custom loop, once with a rasa rx360 kit and a few closed loop systems (ie H50; H80)

I'm upgrading from an H80. Just not doing it at 4.8GHz.

I will probbaly install the loop with the my hardware inside the case since I am not too worried about leaks. Most likely going to have to mount the RX240 at the back since I don't think my haf 912 can do p/p with a thick 240 rad up top.

Pics to come tonight or tomorrow.

Wish me luck!


----------



## blade121

I redid my loop last night for a cleaner look and was hoping for better temps, but the temps seem to have went up.








Previous setup was Pump/Res -> CPU -> Rad-> GPU-> Pump/Res
Now the setup is Pump/Res->Rad->CPU->GPU->Pump/Res

The temps might have went up some but the the way the loop is setup now is sooooo much cleaner! I will take some pics and add them later.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

The "out" barb of the CPU block seems to be damp a bit and only that barb.

Does this mean I have to tear out the whole system and drain the fluids just for the one barb?


----------



## zerocraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> The "out" barb of the CPU block seems to be damp a bit and only that barb.
> Does this mean I have to tear out the whole system and drain the fluids just for the one barb?


Try wiping it with some toilet paper or coffee filter paper, sometimes I've 'felt' damp and its really just because my hands are really hot and dry and the barbs are colder. If it really is wet then you need to pop out the CPU block. If you cant remove the tubing easily, I would just cut the tubing off near the barb, instead of taking apart the entire loop, and then drain it and reseal + leak test.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

So here's an update. I took out the "out" barb on the CPU block by unscrewing it with the tubing attached and then simply cut the tubing off with scissors and took out the barb with a razor blade. Running a leak test right now and it seems to be leak free


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> So here's an update. I took out the "out" barb on the CPU block by unscrewing it with the tubing attached and then simply cut the tubing off with scissors and took out the barb with a razor blade. Running a leak test right now and it seems to be leak free


Also, it could have been screwed in too tight. I have seen a lot of leaks from stuff screwed in too much.


----------



## toricred

Did you try this and how did it work out? I'm thinking about doing the same thing, but I'm more than slightly nervous about it.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toricred*
> 
> Did you try this and how did it work out? I'm thinking about doing the same thing, but I'm more than slightly nervous about it.


If you are referring to my post, then it worked out great. Had a leaky GPU water block. Loosened the fitting a tad and it worked great...


----------



## toricred

Sorry, I thought I had the quote in there. I was actually referring to the use of 1/2 by 5/8 compression fittings for the RS240 kit.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toricred*
> 
> Sorry, I thought I had the quote in there. I was actually referring to the use of 1/2 by 5/8 compression fittings for the RS240 kit.


I am using the 7/16 5/8 stuff. See my build log in my sig. Started out with the 240 kit. A lot of people say that the 7/16 is a lot easier to work with.


----------



## I7guy

i have the 1/2 x 3/4 stuff in my build with the raystyorm 360 kit.. i wish id have gone smaller tubing cause this stuff is a pain to work with


----------



## toricred

So I'm planning on using 7/16 tubing. I was wondering if I could use 1/2 by 5/8 or 1/2 by 3/4 compression fittings with it. Also is Duralene better than the tubing that came with the kit for plasticizing? I'd rather go with some blue tubing but it looks like there isn't any without the plasticizing problems.


----------



## Salvadorable

Just ordered the rs240 kit and some white primochill tubing (i like the idea of white tubing), will be posting pictures once i get everything set up and running next week! It's my first real watercooling build


----------



## I7guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toricred*
> 
> So I'm planning on using 7/16 tubing. I was wondering if I could use 1/2 by 5/8 or 1/2 by 3/4 compression fittings with it. Also is Duralene better than the tubing that came with the kit for plasticizing? I'd rather go with some blue tubing but it looks like there isn't any without the plasticizing problems.


you need compression fittings made for your tubing size


----------



## toricred

My thought was that since the kit comes with 1/2 barbs and 7/16 tubing it might be good to follow suit.


----------



## black snow

Got some goodies today, together with my Raystorm Kit with RX360...

This will be my first custom cooling rig, so am very excited.


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toricred*
> 
> My thought was that since the kit comes with 1/2 barbs and 7/16 tubing it might be good to follow suit.


That would be correct. Try to get 7/16 comp fittings. But half inch works it is just really tight.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *black snow*
> 
> 
> Got some goodies today, together with my Raystorm Kit with RX360...
> This will be my first custom cooling rig, so am very excited.


That is one cool delivery and upgrade


----------



## black snow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That is one cool delivery and upgrade


there is actually more, but this is only the appropriate pic for this thread, since it is for the XSPC kit.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Salvadorable*
> 
> Just ordered the rs240 kit and some white primochill tubing (i like the idea of white tubing), will be posting pictures once i get everything set up and running next week! It's my first real watercooling build


Thumbs up for white tubing!


----------



## blade121

So I have done all this work to my system with the EX240 kit.. But still not completely happy with the results. So i need help making the decision.... Should i try to add another 120 to the loop OR invest into a new case been looking a lot at the Switch 810 (white) and getting a EX420 or 360 for it. Now i know a lot are going to say "if you got the money spend it" but, i don't this would be something where i buy it all piece by piece. I would just go for adding the 120 to the loop but i don't feel as if my case it large enough for it. I am already unhappy with the clutter it has. It wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't for the MB and the Dominator RAM i had to offset my Rad on the top to be closer to the side of the case. The Rad was hitting the ram and the thumbscrews for the Raystorm Block... You can look at the pics in my gallery (they are not updated with the latest pics but you can get the idea)


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade121*
> 
> So I have done all this work to my system with the EX240 kit.. But still not completely happy with the results. So i need help making the decision.... Should i try to add another 120 to the loop OR invest into a new case been looking a lot at the Switch 810 (white) and getting a EX420 or 360 for it. Now i know a lot are going to say "if you got the money spend it" but, i don't this would be something where i buy it all piece by piece. I would just go for adding the 120 to the loop but i don't feel as if my case it large enough for it. I am already unhappy with the clutter it has. It wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't for the MB and the Dominator RAM i had to offset my Rad on the top to be closer to the side of the case. The Rad was hitting the ram and the thumbscrews for the Raystorm Block... You can look at the pics in my gallery (they are not updated with the latest pics but you can get the idea)


edited)
You are running your gpu and cpu off a single 240 rad. Didn't the 400 series run pretty warm?
I could be wrong, never used Nvida gpus.

another few things to think about,
Idle temps don't mean much, all about your under load temps
for each block you want a 120 rad
Fan speed and static pressure make a huge difference, different fans for different rads.


----------



## Kokin

You might just want to switch to a larger case or a case that accommodates watercooling more efficiently. I was going to go watercooling on an Antec 902 before, but it would have required too many mods and it would have been too cramped. Fortunately, I found my TJ07 and some watercooling gear for super cheap and it became very easy to start my watercooling voyage. Here's a picture of my rig at it's current state (minus the UV cathodes and CF bridge):


----------



## blade121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> edited)
> You are running your gpu and cpu off a single 240 rad. Didn't the 400 series run pretty warm?
> I could be wrong, never used Nvida gpus.
> another few things to think about,
> Idle temps don't mean much, all about your under load temps
> for each block you want a 120 rad
> Fan speed and static pressure make a huge difference, different fans for different rads.


Yes the 480 ran really hot on air on the same load im on right now would get up to 70-80c unless i manually adjusted fan speeds. but to be honest the gpu isn't even the one getting hot its the CPU right now im gaming and my current temps are GPU-49c with load and CPU is at 59c (load 31.4%). There is a slight OC on the CPU its a 920 which is stock at 2.66ghz mine is only at 3.2ghz. Using built in Dummy O.C. just because it was a simple solution but i have tried manual settings. But i wasn't satisfied with the temps. As far as the fans im using the 2 Corsair SP120 High Performance at 2300 RPM and 3.1mm/H20 on the rad push only(no room for pull). the rest of the fans are Corsair AF120 High Performance. What i read the EX rads need faster fan speeds than the RX Rads which are better with slower fan speeds.


----------



## CerealKillah

So, I ordered the Rasa 750 RS240 from FrozenCPU last night and was wondering if there would be any benefit to buying better fans.

I am going to have to disassemble and re-assemble everything anyway and was wondering if it would be good to through AP-15s in push/pull or maybe some cougar vortex fans in there.

Any thoughts? I am only cooling my 2500K at this point, so the kit seems like it will be enough to do that...

Help a noob out?


----------



## jared872

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CerealKillah*
> 
> So, I ordered the Rasa 750 RS240 from FrozenCPU last night and was wondering if there would be any benefit to buying better fans.
> I am going to have to disassemble and re-assemble everything anyway and was wondering if it would be good to through AP-15s in push/pull or maybe some cougar vortex fans in there.
> Any thoughts? I am only cooling my 2500K at this point, so the kit seems like it will be enough to do that...
> Help a noob out?


I am using the fans that come with the kit currently, and I am getting great temps. Don't spend the money if you do not have to.


----------



## jam3s

So, I got my RX 240 kit on Friday...

I've been procrastinating like crazy here. Still have my H80 in my rig which I have already sold lol.

Gotta ship tomorrow so I have to get this done today.

I was contemplating leaving all my hardware in the case while leak testing but I decided I will remove the mobo and most of the hardware just in case









I'm going to order either Yate Loons or AP-15's Haven't decided yet.


----------



## mandrix

I have 10 Yate Loons in my new build (+4 NZXT). I don't think you can beat them for the price, but they aren't as "pretty" as a lot of fans unless you get the UV. If you're going for the bling then you probably don't want YL. Otherwise I like them.


----------



## jam3s

yeah I will probs go for Yates. Never had a problem with them. They're great rad fans.


----------



## jam3s

yup


----------



## jam3s

Well, I'm currently leak testing!

here's a really crappy pic:



Had to mount the rad up top because it wouldn't fit internally in front or up top.

I didn't have a rad box to mount the rad at the rear, so last location was up top, out side.










Ugly, but hey, if it works, and it cools well, yay!


----------



## Solomez

How do so many of you have rx240 kits, this **** haven't been in stock for months


----------



## turbobnl

this is where i got my rx240, been in stock for awhile.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14182/ex-wat-181/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_RX240_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c321s1310

heres a picture of my wife's computer that i built.



3930k p9x79 sli 670 ftw build thread here


----------



## TheBirdman74

How do you quite this down? My friend and I installed this RX240 kit, its been sitting at my place since last night and 12hrs later and bleeding with the lid open its still making some humming, grind noise audible when within about 2 feet. I added a few drops of regular citrus / yellow dish washing liquid to the distilled water and a kill coil. what else do i do?


----------



## greg1184

Pardon my messy cables on the bottom. I will get to fixing them up soon. Unfortunately the HAF-X lacks room for cables in the back. Anyway after pain and suffering and RMA after RMA I finally got this built.

In the long run I will put my video cards under water. But for now, I am happy with the performance.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> How do you quite this down? My friend and I installed this RX240 kit, its been sitting at my place since last night and 12hrs later and bleeding with the lid open its still making some humming, grind noise audible when within about 2 feet. I added a few drops of regular citrus / yellow dish washing liquid to the distilled water and a kill coil. what else do i do?


Sill it up, then lift and shake and turn and roll it all different angles.

It doesn't take much of a air bubble to get stuck in the actual pump to make it noisy.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Sill it up, then lift and shake and turn and roll it all different angles.
> It doesn't take much of a air bubble to get stuck in the actual pump to make it noisy.


Okay Just tried doing that, got some air bubbles out and the few drops of dish washing liquid I used came into effect and now the top few mm of the res is all foamy.

When the thing is on its side is almost dead silent(just a hum) but when its standing(how a normal PC would stand) it makes that slight buzzing sound like a radio.. what else do I do now? Th pump is probably the loudest part in my PC when I turn down all the fans. dam xspc


----------



## ginger_nuts

Turn it off, for a while.

Then turn it on, off, on and off (probably 5-10min at a time)

Usually time is the best means though


----------



## AMOCO

It also helps to thump the tubing with your finger to get rid of air bubbles in the system.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Also, fill the res to the very top don't leave any air in it if possible! I had the same issue when I first filled mine after I added some more water to the res and the usual shaking and what not the thing has been totally silent now for over 6 months.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Okay thanks Guys Reps BUT the thing is still making noticeable noise >.<..

I have filled up some more, at the absolute very top, now maybe a little air left in there in the res but every time I try to fill it it over flows >.<..

I hear on the internetz and this topic that this is a common issue with the older kits with this acrylic pump / res(such as this RX240)? I just turned on my H70 and that thing is absolutely silent compared to this. I contacted XSPC and they are giving me the usual run around with the reseller down here but to RMA it I would have to take the whole kit apart, dont want to do that after so much trouble installing everything









The noise is definitely coming from the impaler I thinks, should I leave it there running overnight again with the lid open?

edit)
The D5 Pump Combos, or should I look into that?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Turn it off over night, sleep on it, then see how it is in the morning.


----------



## NASzi

mine has been making the same aggrevating noise since I first hooked up, it did quiet down a little bit and has more of an even tone now and it's usually not noticeable with my Enforcer door shut. OO well i'm not disconnecting it and sending it back now, that's what Frozen CPU told me to do.


----------



## mandrix

What works for me with the pump/res combo is tilting the case to the left. That way the pump doesn't suck air from the res and it helps to dislodge air bubbles. Don't tilt to the right very far as you'll just end up sucking more air into the system. Usually in about 15-20 minutes the pump is quiet. In extreme cases try rocking the case pretty far both directions in between bumping the pump on and off briefly.


----------



## toricred

So I have my RS240 kit installed and it is running great. Of course now I want to start changing things. The most important is that I'd really like to get one of my drive bays back. I think my options are moving the res/pump from the kit someplace else in my case (the only place left is at the bottom of the case), figure out a way to mount it outside the case, or replace with possibly separate pieces. Oh and of course I'd like to do it without spending too much.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toricred*
> 
> So I have my RS240 kit installed and it is running great. Of course now I want to start changing things. The most important is that I'd really like to get one of my drive bays back. I think my options are moving the res/pump from the kit someplace else in my case (the only place left is at the bottom of the case), figure out a way to mount it outside the case, or replace with possibly separate pieces. Oh and of course I'd like to do it without spending too much.


Do people still use ODD's?

Only joking.









I personally have one drive that I just plug in when needed.

But if you can just mount it down the bottom of the case somewhere.

Then you could shroud it in a cover and it would look all stealthy like.


----------



## Krusher33

Hush. I still use ODD in all my computers.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Thanks Guys. Reps







But the thing still hasn't quieted down properly..I ran prime95 for a while this morning and then turned it off for hours, now still I can hear it when I slow down the fans.









I contacted XSPC to give me a replacement since it was bought off Frozen CPU, yet to hear back.
Is there anything I should know? Any Different pumps I can request? Or is it this or the D5 pump combo?


----------



## pirates712

When I contacted XPSC they just had me send a video of the noise and I had a new pump within a few days









I have my case all apart because I had to RMA my ram. While I was running memtest I noticed that my heatsinks on my mobo (Asus maximus V) were getting pretty hot. I was wondering if there was a waterblock that I could get for this motherboard, as when I'm running prime95 the board itself gets really hot. If I do this I would like to add a second 240 radiator and move the existing one outside the case so both are on a stand. Will the pump that comes with the kit be sufficient for this?


----------



## toricred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Do people still use ODD's?
> Only joking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally have one drive that I just plug in when needed.
> But if you can just mount it down the bottom of the case somewhere.
> Then you could shroud it in a cover and it would look all stealthy like.


Actually I want the drive bay for a fan controller.


----------



## Salvadorable

Got everything in yesterday and managed to set up it all up before i had to worked, leak tested everything for maybe 19 or 20 hours and deemed it safe. Put everything back together this morning, did cable management, etc etc. But here's some pictures! I used a little bit too much tubing, but i wanted to be EXTRA safe when cutting. My sniper case won't let me do push/pull so im only doing push until i get a dremel


----------



## Demented

Finally got around to publishing my unboxing of the RASA 750 RX240 kit!


----------



## mandrix

Haaha. You're a trip Demented. Agreed on the packing peanuts, the bane of unboxing for sure. Nothing like having 1000 little pieces of styrofoam littering the floor and sticking to me, the carpet, the dog, the...well you know.
The 750 RX240 was my first water cooling setup as well. The supplied tubing isn't that great, for sure, but serviceable, and definitely gets cloudy looking after a short while. I've been using the XSPC Hi Flex though (UV Blue & White) and I really like it.
Now let's see a sleeving video............


----------



## Siamak8286

Hey guys, Im currently running a Corsair H80 with my i7 2600K and my temps are around 35c at idle and full load goes to around 60c, I was wondering if it's worth upgrading to XSPC Rasa EX240 since thats the one that fits my Corsair 600T case. please let me know since im trying to figure this out. also how does the noise compare to H80 since my Corsair H80 pump is almost silent.

here is kit i was looking at:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16070/ex-wat-210/XSPC_Raystorm_EX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Kill_Coil_.html?tl=g30c321s1310#blank


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Hey guys, Im currently running a Corsair H80 with my i7 2600K and my temps are around 35c at idle and full load goes to around 60c, I was wondering if it's worth upgrading to XSPC Rasa EX240 since thats the one that fits my Corsair 600T case. please let me know since im trying to figure this out. also how does the noise compare to H80 since my Corsair H80 pump is almost silent.
> here is kit i was looking at:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16070/ex-wat-210/XSPC_Raystorm_EX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Kill_Coil_.html?tl=g30c321s1310#blank


The D5 pump included, if set on the 3 or 4 setting (out of 5), will be very quiet. The Rasa kit will perform a bit better than the H80 with at least a few degrees cooler operation.


----------



## Kokin

Would also be able to put a GPU block into the mix without getting much higher temps.


----------



## leo5111

how good is the 360 with cooling cpu only? thanks


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> how good is the 360 with cooling cpu only? thanks


Considering I haven't gone above 43 C (load) on my CPU even with a 6950 in the loop and it's been 90-100F here lately, I'd say it does fine.


----------



## The Sandman

Leo5111 I run the RS360, (CPU only) and never see temps above 38c under load with OC listed in rig sig. This includes a 28 hr prime95 test, 20 runs of IBT on Max than 50 runs of LinX set to "ALL" (Max).


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Leo5111 I run the RS360, (CPU only) and never see temps above 38c under load with OC listed in rig sig. This includes a 28 hr prime95 test, 20 runs of IBT on Max than 50 runs of LinX set to "ALL" (Max).













































That is one hell a torture test


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Leo5111 I run the RS360, (CPU only) and never see temps above 38c under load with OC listed in rig sig. This includes a 28 hr prime95 test, 20 runs of IBT on Max than 50 runs of LinX set to "ALL" (Max).


Oh geez, I don't have that much patience!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> how good is the 360 with cooling cpu only? thanks


It would be way too overkill unless you plan to run your fans at 800~1000RPM. I actually ran my 2500K at 5ghz (1.456v) and two 5870s with a single PA120.3, which is very similar to a RX360.

My CPU temps were between 50~60C during Prime95 Blend and only around 40~50 during BF3 gaming. My GPUs hit a max load temp of 40~45C during 100% usage in BF3 and in Furmark.

(I only use BF3 as an example as it does max out usage)


----------



## selluminis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It would be way too overkill unless you plan to run your fans at 800~1000RPM. I actually ran my 2500K at 5ghz (1.456v) and two 5870s with a single PA120.3, which is very similar to a RX360.
> My CPU temps were between 50~60C during Prime95 Blend and only around 40~50 during BF3 gaming. My GPUs hit a max load temp of 40~45C during 100% usage in BF3 and in Furmark.
> (I only use BF3 as an example as it does max out usage)


Agree. However, it gives you more head room to add blocks in the future.


----------



## Bucshman

Going to pick up a Rasa kit this week, and was wondering about filling and emptying the liquid. How often will I have to replace the coolant?, and should I put in a drain line when installing?


----------



## The Sandman

Distilled water and silver kill coil is the common coolant, If you don't end up changing things around (this happens a lot) change water every 6 months to a year.
Drain line is always optional but I wouldn't have it any other way, I'd recommend one. Makes it nice and easy.


----------



## Kokin

I definitely recommend getting a T-line to add a drain line to your loop. Makes it A LOT easier to drain especially if you route it so that the drain line is the lowest point in your loop.


----------



## Bucshman

Would one of these work, or should I go with a "T" connector. I would like to eliminate as many breaks in the line and fittings I can. The less you have the less chance of them leaking.

I was going to connect this to the in line on the reservoir and leave the drain line hanging to the bottom of the case, with a plug on it of course.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> Would one of these work, or should I go with a "T" connector. I would like to eliminate as many breaks in the line and fittings I can. The less you have the less chance of them leaking.
> 
> I was going to connect this to the in line on the reservoir and leave the drain line hanging to the bottom of the case, with a plug on it of course.


That should work perfectly, though it may not be as effective as the "T" connector. It will certainly look cleaner.


----------



## dimwit13

quick question guys/gals.
i am going to add a 7950 or a 670 to my system (in a new corsair 650D case)
will my rs240 be able to handle both the cpu and gpu-with overclocks?
if not, is there a single rad that i could use and that would fit in my case without major modding?

i am going to order everything on friday so i need to have this all figured out.

Thanks

-dimwit-


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> quick question guys/gals.
> i am going to add a 7950 or a 670 to my system (in a new corsair 650D case)
> will my rs240 be able to handle both the cpu and gpu-with overclocks?
> if not, is there a single rad that i could use and that would fit in my case without major modding?
> i am going to order everything on friday so i need to have this all figured out.
> Thanks
> -dimwit-


You might face higher than average temps of watercooling, but it should be doable. If you're fine with _adding_ on to that RS240, you could always add an EX120 at the rear and/or an EX240 at the front. That being said, if you expand with the 120mm on the rear and 240mm on the front, you could add a 2nd GPU in the future with no worries.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You might face higher than average temps of watercooling, but it should be doable. If you're fine with _adding_ on to that RS240, you could always add an EX120 at the rear and/or an EX240 at the front. That being said, if you expand with the 120mm on the rear and 240mm on the front, you could add a 2nd GPU in the future with no worries.


thanks for the reply.
i was thinking the same thing about the single 240 rad.
i dont really like the look of the 120 on the rear-looks too crowded to me.
i measured the front and i cant fit a 240 in the front.
i could put a 200mm rad in the front but they cost $90+
so i think i will put the 240 on the bottom and get a 280 for the top.
i already have a couple 140mm fans, so that will save some money.
now i will need a fan controller for all the fans-URGH!!!
i have a mod for the front IO panel in the works..
looking forward to this (re)build.

-dimwit-

well my dremel has been lonely-lol


----------



## Eylev

Guys, im new to WC so im wondering.. is XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 WaterCooling Kit with a GPU block enough to run both my OC Phenom II X6 1090T & reference 7970 gpu? I already have a Cosmos 2 casing..


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eylev*
> 
> Guys, im new to WC so im wondering.. is XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 WaterCooling Kit with a GPU block enough to run both my OC Phenom II X6 1090T & reference 7970 gpu? I already have a Cosmos 2 casing..


It will be good.







I was running a rad similar to the RX360 with a 2550K @ 5ghz and 2x 5870s, so you should have no temp problems with a single GPU.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eylev*
> 
> Guys, im new to WC so im wondering.. is XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 WaterCooling Kit with a GPU block enough to run both my OC Phenom II X6 1090T & reference 7970 gpu? I already have a Cosmos 2 casing..


I'm running the RS360 with a 1090T @4233NHz (CPU only) and while temps are never an issue this is my thought.
If I was choosing between the RS and the RX, hands down if room allows go for the RX.

As Kokin mentioned the RS will probably be fine (my 4233MHz never exceeds 39c underload) but my thinking says why not spend a little more now for the RX, and never have to worry about the cooling solution again, even with future upgrades. I bought the RS when I was laid off from work and really didn't have any extra $$$ at the time. To do it all over again, I'd definitely go with the RX not because there's anything wrong with an RS I really like mine, but one can always use the extra headroom when OCing especially if you're running a GPU in the loop.

One other thought is the RX will run a lower rpm fan and should be even more quiet than the RS, just something to think about.


----------



## Zyzzyx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I'm running the RS360 with a 1090T @4233NHz (CPU only) and while temps are never an issue this is my thought.
> If I was choosing between the RS and the RX, hands down if room allows go for the RX.
> As Kokin mentioned the RS will probably be fine (my 4233MHz never exceeds 39c underload) but my thinking says why not spend a little more now for the RX, and never have to worry about the cooling solution again, even with future upgrades. I bought the RS when I was laid off from work and really didn't have any extra $$$ at the time. To do it all over again, I'd definitely go with the RX not because there's anything wrong with an RS I really like mine, but one can always use the extra headroom when OCing especially if you're running a GPU in the loop.
> One other thought is the RX will run a lower rpm fan and should be even more quiet than the RS, just something to think about.


I agree with this. I have an RS360 kit, but I should have spent the extra cash and gone for the RX. I have an RV02-e case, so it's a bit cramped, but the RX360 would just be the better bet as far as adaptability goes.


----------



## Eylev

Thanks guys for all your advise! But reason why i choose RS360 instead of RX360 due to the cosmos II casing.. The upper part either can install 240mm or 360mm (with extra work) .. RS360 is thinner than RX360.. But right now im considering whether should i choose the EX360.. Any advise on this...?


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eylev*
> 
> Thanks guys for all your advise! But reason why i choose RS360 instead of RX360 due to the cosmos II casing.. The upper part either can install 240mm or 360mm (with extra work) .. RS360 is thinner than RX360.. But right now im considering whether should i choose the EX360.. Any advise on this...?


The EX360 would be a better choice. Same size as the RS360 with RX360 performance.


----------



## Kokin

By all means go get that EX! Depending on the fan speed, it can trail behind the RX or beat it at 1600RPM and higher. If I didn't get my RX240 for cheap here at OCN, I would have gone for an EX rad.


----------



## saber101

huh i'm guessing one RS 240 rad wont cut for CPU(955 under volt 1.2v) and GPU(HD 6870) loop at moderate temps (around 50c-ish for CPU and 75-80c-ish for GPU MAX load).


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saber101*
> 
> huh i'm guessing one RS 240 rad wont cut for CPU(955 under volt 1.2v) and GPU(HD 6870) loop at moderate temps (around 50c-ish for CPU and 75-80c-ish for GPU MAX load).


The CPU will probably run at around 40~45C and the GPU will run at around ~40C for load temps. CPU will benefit the most if you decide to get bigger rads or more rads.

BTW, I'll be running an i5 3570K and 7950 off one RX240. Once I get my motherboard exchanged I'll be posting my temps.


----------



## saber101

lol cool i'll properly post my temps as well after i install it.(was meant for my new build (1BirdyTheMighty) but decide to wait another year xD)


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saber101*
> 
> huh i'm guessing one RS 240 rad wont cut for CPU(955 under volt 1.2v) and GPU(HD 6870) loop at moderate temps (around 50c-ish for CPU and 75-80c-ish for GPU MAX load).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The CPU will probably run at around 40~45C and the GPU will run at around ~40C for load temps. CPU will benefit the most if you decide to get bigger rads or more rads.
> BTW, I'll be running an i5 3570K and 7950 off one RX240. Once I get my motherboard exchanged I'll be posting my temps.


Ok but can the pump from the kit handle an extra block + 120 or 240 rad?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Ok but can the pump from the kit handle an extra block + 120 or 240 rad?


Yes sir. People who have run 1 CPU + 2GPUs have had no problems with flow. That is with 2 rads as well.

Thought at that price, I would just go custom or even step up to the RX/EX package since it comes with the D5, the Raystorm, and compressions.

Edit: You can find it in FrozenCPU.com


----------



## Krusher33

I've already got the res+pump, rad, and block. I just need 1 fitting + tubing for it. And I'm just considering adding GPU into the mix or just using my Kuhler 620 on the GPU.


----------



## Kokin

You're basically good to go then.

As for your GPU, you can go either way. A full cover block will run you about $100, but a universal block will run you only about $50 ($30ish if you can find one here) and it offers the same cooling performance as full cover blocks (or even better) but you need to put heatsinks on your RAM and VRMs which could cost you another $10-20. The Kuhler 620 option would also need heatsinks on the RAM and VRMS, but I can't speak about its performance.


----------



## Krusher33

That's the part I'm quite curious about at the moment. I had the 620 on my 6850 and was folding on it but I'm trading it out with a 6970. Adding the WC kit to the CPU as well. While I know the Kuhler does quite well on the 6850. NO clue how it would do on the new card or if I should just get a used block and rad here. And if I get a rad... 240 or is 120 good enough?


----------



## Kokin

Here are my temps with a single RX240 with two 2150 GTs on push (around 1000RPM) and my D5 pump at setting 3:

i5 3570K - 4.5ghz @ 1.16v -Prime95 blend with AVX instructions - 50~60C, With non-AVX Prime95 blend, it's about 5~10C lower.
7950[overvolted] - 1200core @ 1.25v | 1800mem @ 1.6v - MSI Kombustor - 44-45C
7959[stock volts] - 1040core @ 1.093v | 1800mem @ 1.6v -MSI Kombustor - 38~40C


----------



## saber101

just install watercool
I am just using one RS240 radiator to cool CPU and GPU

here are my temps
my 955BE is undervolt to 1.2v @3.2GHz
used prime94 and MSI Kombustor


----------



## HitmanUK1

Hi All,

I'm looking into going into water cooling after getting my 2nd 560 TI card, but I would like to know what I would need for:

i7 2700K @ 4.6
2x 560 TI

Cheers,

Leo


----------



## tester300

Hey,
Im new to the community! Been browsing for weeks but now that im upgrading my PC i need advice.

Im going to buy a XSPC RX240, Im wondering if this kit is enough to watercool my 8150fx and my gtx 680 classified.

Thanks


----------



## Tom114

I want the RS240 kit but it is 170 euros here, thats more then 200$, I live in the Netherlands. Does anybody know a good alternative or somewhere I can buy it for less? A german shop or something?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> I want the RS240 kit but it is 170 euros here, thats more then 200$, I live in the Netherlands. Does anybody know a good alternative or somewhere I can buy it for less? A german shop or something?


try checking the classified sections, i was able to piece my whole kit together for MUCH less than it would have cost to buy it retail.


----------



## Eylev

Guys, is 2 x 240mm radiators better than a single 360mm radiator?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eylev*
> 
> Guys, is 2 x 240mm radiators better than a single 360mm radiator?


2 240mm radiators would have a total of 57,600 square mm of surface area, and a single 360 would have 43,200 square mm of surface area. so yes, 2 240mm would cool better than a single 360mm radiator. (all this assuming your talking about 120mm wide radiators of the same thickness. if the 360 is much thicker than the 240s, then it might not be true)


----------



## Eylev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> 2 240mm radiators would have a total of 57,600 square mm of surface area, and a single 360 would have 43,200 square mm of surface area. so yes, 2 240mm would cool better than a single 360mm radiator. (all this assuming your talking about 120mm wide radiators of the same thickness. if the 360 is much thicker than the 240s, then it might not be true)


Thanks!! Lastly i will want to know that what kind of screws i will need to install GentleTyphoon AP-15 1850rpm fans on 1X EX360 Rad & 1X RX240 Rad? I dont wish to spoilt anything on my 1st time WC.... Thanks!


----------



## saber101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eylev*
> 
> Thanks!! Lastly i will want to know that what kind of screws i will need to install GentleTyphoon AP-15 1850rpm fans on 1X EX360 Rad & 1X RX240 Rad? I dont wish to spoilt anything on my 1st time WC.... Thanks!


there should be screws that came with the rad just use them, there would be a piece of paper telling what screw you need too anyway


----------



## Kokin

It's the same kind used by the Corsair AIO. Regular size i*s #6-32 x 1.25" (1 1/4")*. If you can find 1 1/8" that would be even better. With 1 1/4" I needed to use three *#6 washers* to mount my GTs without the screw hitting the fins.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saber101*
> 
> there should be screws that came with the rad just use them, there would be a piece of paper telling what screw you need too anyway


There wouldn't be enough for push/pull.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It's the same kind used by the Corsair AIO. Regular size i*s #6-32 x 1.25" (1 1/4")*. If you can find 1 1/8" that would be even better. With 1 1/4" I needed to use three *#6 washers* to mount my GTs without the screw hitting the fins.
> There wouldn't be enough for push/pull.


actually, not all rad's use the same threads, here's the break down (and yes, 1 1/8" is what you need)


----------



## Kokin

^ Nice info.

It was stated that it was going to be RX and EX rads, so it would still be #6-32 screws. That being said, you can always cut off part of the screw if it is too long and you don't want to use washers.


----------



## Trelga

So guys honestly how hard is one of these kits to install if you've never done it?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> actually, not all rad's use the same threads, here's the break down (and yes, 1 1/8" is what you need)


Awesome resource. +rep


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> So guys honestly how hard is one of these kits to install if you've never done it?


It's not much harder than following instructions. You basically put the block on the CPU (and GPU if you want to do that as well), mount your rad somewhere with fans installed, mount the pump/res. After all that, you put barbs or compression fittings on each component (2 each for the block, rad, pump/res) then you cut your tubing and route it. Finally, you fill the pump/res with distilled water and you let it bleed while filling the res little by little as the air bubbles bleed out. Once everything is completed, you can run the pump without powering on your motherboard/cpu/gpu and do a leak test.

Should only take 30mins to an hour+ depending on how well you planned to route your tubing and mount the components. Leak test could last a few hours to a whole day depending on how paranoid you are about leaks.







I only tested for about an hour when I built my loop a few days ago, but my first time was about 12 hours.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Awesome resource. +rep


Ouch, nothing said about my answer? I kid.







I also repped for the chart since I didn't know other brands used different screw sizes, really nice info.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> So guys honestly how hard is one of these kits to install if you've never done it?


it's really not hard at all, just take you time and be mindful for what your doing. make sure you leak test everything before you power up the system, and you should be fine. there are LOTS of people here willing to answer questions for you if you get stuck on something.


----------



## Ahzanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> So guys honestly how hard is one of these kits to install if you've never done it?


Being a newbie here too, I can say it is very easy but as the others said. Mind what your doing and definitely leak test your loop first or you could short out your system. To do that you have a power supply out side your case and have your loop set up in the config you want it in the case. Then you fill it and let it run for about 1 - 24 hours. Then if no leaks are detected then your all good just put it in. Oh and do not over tighten the barbs. Remember in most instances your putting them into plexiglass. Which can and will strip, or brake easily.
One last thing I recommend this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6qpkigby5w&feature=relmfu
I watched this British guy and it helped me lots. He also uses a smaller XSPC I do not recommend you use die for your loop I have done the reserch on it. Unless you want to clean your loop out every 3 months.


----------



## Kokin

In regards to the post above, if you cannot leak test it outside of the case, you can also leak test it with everything installed, but you must only provide power to the pump. Put some towels, napkins, or tissue where all the fittings are located and let it run for a while. Every now and then you can check to see if there were any leaks. If you're satisfied with the test, you can power up everything and test it out while keeping the tissues or towels in place. Take them out once you're sure you have no leaks.

As far as dyes go, the only recommended one in OCN is Mayhem Dye. See this thread to learn more about it. (Only UV Clear Blue does not stain)


----------



## Tom114

Will there be much difference in temperature between the RS120 and 240? I'm conscidering watercooling but I find RS240 really expensive. The RS240 is 165 euros here and the RS120 is 130 euros and I will need 2x AP-15's. I just want/need good cooling for my cpu. And if I want to upgrade the RS120 later (with a 240) do I need a new pump then?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Will there be much difference in temperature between the RS120 and 240? I'm conscidering watercooling but I find RS240 really expensive. The RS240 is 165 euros here and the RS120 is 130 euros and I will need 2x AP-15's. I just want/need good cooling for my cpu. And if I want to upgrade the RS120 later (with a 240) do I need a new pump then?


a single 120 will be fine for just a cpu. you can add or upgrade to a 240 without having to replace the pump. i'm current;y running a 120, 240, cpu, and gpu all on the stock older model pump (all clear plexi), and the new pumps have better flow./pressure.


----------



## Ahzanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Will there be much difference in temperature between the RS120 and 240? I'm conscidering watercooling but I find RS240 really expensive. The RS240 is 165 euros here and the RS120 is 130 euros and I will need 2x AP-15's. I just want/need good cooling for my cpu. And if I want to upgrade the RS120 later (with a 240) do I need a new pump then?


I agree with Kaneda13, if your running stock settings on your rig then yes a 120 is fine for just a cpu. My Sjet systems is overclocked to 4735mhz, 24/7, according to CPUZ and I use the XSPC 740 Rasa RX240. Something I read on here somewhere is that it is usually better to have more rad then you need. Especially if you are over clocking or planing to add more cooling blocks to your loop.


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> I agree with Kaneda13, if your running stock settings on your rig then yes a 120 is fine for just a cpu. My Sjet systems is overclocked to 4735mhz, 24/7, according to CPUZ and I use the XSPC 740 Rasa RX240. Something I read on here somewhere is that it is usually better to have more rad then you need. Especially if you are over clocking or planing to add more cooling blocks to your loop.


Well, I have my 3570k overclocked to 4.4ghz, but its running quite hot (max 79 celcius) on max speed with my CM hyper TX3, which is really loud. Will a RS120 be enough for that?


----------



## pvt.joker

if you don't want to see any major temp drops, a rs120 would work. To get better results, i'd suggest an ex120 or spend the extra and go for any of the 240's.. they'll make a much bigger difference.


----------



## Krusher33

Is there a big difference in temps on the RS240 rad using push/pull vs just push?


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Is there a big difference in temps on the RS240 rad using push/pull vs just push?


you'd probably get better results from better static pressure fans in just push than average fans in push/pull. the difference is usually a few C at best. for some it's worth it. others, not.


----------



## Krusher33

Ok, thanks. I was trying to decide if I want to order 2 more medium speed Panaflo's to the 2 I already have.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Is there a big difference in temps on the RS240 rad using push/pull vs just push?


read this article, VERY well done and gives lots of info on push vs pull vs push/pull with and without a shroud.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Well, I have my 3570k overclocked to 4.4ghz, but its running quite hot (max 79 celcius) on max speed with my CM hyper TX3, which is really loud. Will a RS120 be enough for that?


It will be, but you have to think of it another way when using Ivy Bridge CPUs. The CPU itself runs cool and outputs very little wattage, but the cores run really hot. The heat is stuck inside the CPU and does not effectively go into the heatsink or waterblock.

When I was testing my 4.7ghz OC last night, my core temps ranged between 60~70+, but my water temp stayed at 36C for 2 hours straight.


----------



## vite0150

Maybe someone can help me with this... Some days ago i disconnected the molex from my xspc pump/reservoir... Later i didn't remember if the pump uses 12v or 5v... so i put it in 12v








Yesterday i noticed that the pump sounds a lot more than before (like a tractor XD)...

So, your pumps use 12v or 5v?
if it in fact uses 12v maybe it got damaged in the previous days








I haven't put it in 5v because i don't know if it pushes the necessary amount of water

My kit is a xspc rasa rs240


----------



## ginger_nuts

According to XSPC HERE it is a 12v pump.

So connect brown pump power cable to the molex yellow wire and blue to the black.

You may of just introduced a air bubble into it, do the typical shake, rattle and roll treatment. Oh with it off as well


----------



## vite0150

I just drain the whole thing... to see if there's was a noticeable difference between 12v vs 5v... Both move almost the same amount of water, so i leave it on 5v









Now this thing is silent


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> According to XSPC HERE You may of just introduced a air bubble into it, do the typical shake, rattle and roll treatment. Oh with it off as well


This is probably the case. It should bleed eventually, but try to move your case around while it's off. Just make sure no parts fly around. Also don't move the case if you have HDDs powered on.


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Random question for potential owners...

I have a Rasa block and 750 res/pump. I want to get a Raystorm block and D5 res/pump.

I can get just the block and res/pump and sell the old block and res/pump or I can spend $40 more and get a kit and in essence sell a kit.

Would it be easier to resell the old block and pump by themselves or resell a partially new kit?

Does that make any sense?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> Random question for potential owners...
> I have a Rasa block and 750 res/pump. I want to get a Raystorm block and D5 res/pump.
> I can get just the block and res/pump and sell the old block and res/pump or I can spend $40 more and get a kit and in essence sell a kit.
> Would it be easier to resell the old block and pump by themselves or resell a partially new kit?
> Does that make any sense?


selling the individual parts will be your best bet, as you have a larger market for someone looking for a few pieces than someone looking to buy a whole kit.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> selling the individual parts will be your best bet, as you have a larger market for someone looking for a few pieces than someone looking to buy a whole kit.


This. I was just doing this the past couple of weeks. Now I have everything I need... I think.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourdanWithaU*
> 
> Random question for potential owners...
> I have a Rasa block and 750 res/pump. I want to get a Raystorm block and D5 res/pump.
> I can get just the block and res/pump and sell the old block and res/pump or I can spend $40 more and get a kit and in essence sell a kit.
> Would it be easier to resell the old block and pump by themselves or resell a partially new kit?
> Does that make any sense?


I also recommend selling things individually. You can probably get $30 for the Rasa block and $40 for the pump/res, at least that's what I sold mine for.


----------



## Tom114

Is this kit comparable to the rasa RS240? I can switch parts if I want but I'll probably don't get any discount on them if I change anything. What would you guys do?


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> selling the individual parts will be your best bet, as you have a larger market for someone looking for a few pieces than someone looking to buy a whole kit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> This. I was just doing this the past couple of weeks. Now I have everything I need... I think.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I also recommend selling things individually. You can probably get $30 for the Rasa block and $40 for the pump/res, at least that's what I sold mine for.


Interesting. Thank you for the input. I'm still pretty noob. I poked around the classifieds a bit. But it's kinda hard to tell what would be a better sell.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Is this kit comparable to the rasa RS240? I can switch parts if I want but I'll probably don't get any discount on them if I change anything. What would you guys do?


Looks like it's the same basic kit. Different components but it will achieve the same purpose. It may be advantageous to have that slim radiator for space restrictions. But it might not provide as good of cooling as a XSPC radiator.

I swapped out my radiator for a thinner one before I even installed my kit for the first time. Actually the only components of the kit that I am using and ever used are the block, reservoir, and fittings. I opted for different hose radiator..s and fans.


----------



## Bucshman

Got my kit in a few days ago, measured all the tubing out and put it together tonight outside of the case to test everything and the pump is DOA. Is anyone running the 240 RS kit on a 4.0 2500k (vcore 1.264) I would really like to see screen shots of idle, gaming and full load temps to see if this is worth my time to send this back and wait for another kit. Or just piece it together and do a custom loop.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> Got my kit in a few days ago, measured all the tubing out and put it together tonight outside of the case to test everything and the pump is DOA. Is anyone running the 240 RS kit on a 4.0 2500k (vcore 1.264) I would really like to see screen shots of idle, gaming and full load temps to see if this is worth my time to send this back and wait for another kit. Or just piece it together and do a custom loop.


You can try contacting XSPC and they might send you a free pump. I know for kits that had faulty/loud pumps, they shipped a replacement pump/res free of charge.


----------



## chaozzzsg

Hi Guys, I got a question. Will the RX240 750pump kit support a CPU and GPU block with 2x 240mm Rad?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Hi Guys, I got a question. Will the RX240 750pump kit support a CPU and GPU block with 2x 240mm Rad?


Yes and you can add one more GPU block if you choose to. I wouldn't add more parts after a second GPU block though.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yes and you can add one more GPU block if you choose to. I wouldn't add more parts after a second GPU block though.


I was going to add my GPU's paralleled. Do you think this would allow me to also add two very non-restrictive MB blocks after?


----------



## Kokin

It shouldn't be a problem since you plan to run the gpus in parallel. I would invest in a nice D5 or DDC pump afterwards though. You're pretty much in custom loop territory, might as well use a stronger pump.


----------



## chaozzzsg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yes and you can add one more GPU block if you choose to. I wouldn't add more parts after a second GPU block though.


Thanks Kokin, am intending to get a pump if i were to run a cross fire. Right now, i am saving up for my 2nd 7970GPU 1st.


----------



## Tom114

Are the Rasa kits EOL? http://www.xs-pc.com/products/watercooling-kits/
Looks like the raystorm is going to take the rasa's place


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Are the Rasa kits EOL? http://www.xs-pc.com/products/watercooling-kits/
> Looks like the raystorm is going to take the rasa's place


yes, they have done away with the Rasa's and are only making the Raystorms now. Any Rasa's that companies are selling is just the stock they have left.


----------



## chaozzzsg

Hey guys..can I be added to the XSPC kit club??? LOL!!!

Will be posting the pix of my CM Storm Trooper with the WC loop once i get my DSLR camera back from my girlfriend!!!


----------



## JayKaos

XSPC Rasa RX240 swapped out a few part's here's what I have left/removed/added...

XSPC CPU water Block
XSPC Pump and REZ
XSPC RX240 Radiator (Removed)
XSPC EX360 Radiator Top mounted (Added)
XSPC EX120 Radiator Rear mounted (Added)
XSPC High Flex 1/2 Hose White Matte (Added)
XSPC Hose from kit (Some still In use)
XSPC 6 Barb Fittings (2 Removed)
XSPC 2 Fan's
XSPC 2 Fan grill (1 Removed)

EK FC HD-7970 Full Cover Water Block (2 Added)
Bitspower G1/4 Rotary Angle Black (6 Added)
Bitspower G1/4 Plug Black 2 (Added)
Koolance Dual GPU Connector Adjustable Black Single slot (Added)
Koolance Drain Valve (Added)
Silent 120mm Hydrodynamic Bearing Fan

IMHO it preforms extremely well for a modded kit the CPU temps are a little hidh atm I need to get some AS5 (I7 2600K @4.5G)
Loop setup: Reservoir > CPU > 120mm Radiator > GPU > GPU > 360 Radiator to Reservoir (Keeps the pump running cool)

Hears some temp's, Max CPU Core #1/2 63c, GPU 48c - second GPU does't show up







(Tested running OCCT Power Supply test V4.3.1)









My setup PIc's


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> IMHO it preforms extremely well for a modded kit the CPU temps are a little hidh atm I need to get some AS5 (I7 2600K @4.5G)
> Loop setup: Reservoir > CPU > 120mm Radiator > GPU > GPU > 360 Radiator to Reservoir (Keeps the pump running cool)


I'm not a professional at water cooling by any means, but I think you have a few unnecessary 90 degree fittings in there. Any time you use a 90 you restrict the coolant movement threw your lines. Based on your pictures, and If it were my loop, I would remove about 6 of the 90 degree fittings, add a few (2) 45 degree fittings, and run the 7970's in parallel. The XSPC 750 pump is good, but in custom loop territory (where you are at), is not the greatest. To get the best performance out of your system I would also say go with a more powerful pump and add a larger res.
I'm not knocking you, just throwing out an opinion. And by the way "The Beast" is an understatement for 2 7970's in x-fire, I'm jealous!


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> I'm not a professional at water cooling by any means, but I think you have a few unnecessary 90 degree fittings in there. Any time you use a 90 you restrict the coolant movement threw your lines. Based on your pictures, and If it were my loop, I would remove about 6 of the 90 degree fittings, add a few (2) 45 degree fittings, and run the 7970's in parallel. The XSPC 750 pump is good, but in custom loop territory (where you are at), is not the greatest. To get the best performance out of your system I would also say go with a more powerful pump and add a larger res.
> I'm not knocking you, just throwing out an opinion. And by the way "The Beast" is an understatement for 2 7970's in x-fire, I'm jealous!


Definitely agree. The stock pump is capable of quite a bit, but you're reaaaaaally pushing it with the CPU and 2x GPU with all of those 90degree fittings. After changing the fittings, changing the pump is your next upgrade.


----------



## Kokin

If he went with a stronger pump, changing fittings wouldn't be as necessary, but it's still recommended.


----------



## chaozzzsg

Hi,
I would like to check if the RX240 (Pull/push config) would be sufficient to cool a CPU and a GPU block or should I get another Rad?


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Hi,
> I would like to check if the RX240 (Pull/push config) would be sufficient to cool a CPU and a GPU block or should I get another Rad?


You may be alright, but the rule of thumb is 120 mm per of block + 120 (CPU + GPU + 120, so 360).


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Hi,
> I would like to check if the RX240 (Pull/push config) would be sufficient to cool a CPU and a GPU block or should I get another Rad?


Could you state which CPU and GPU you have? I'm using a single RX240 for my 3570K and 7950, both overclocked and overvolted. I was planning to get another 120 rad but my temps are already good as is. I just want to make use of all 8 of my GTs.


----------



## socketus

Stop me if you've heard this one ....

A fan controller, a dual bay res, and a dvd-rom drive all walk into a NZXT Switch 810 case, and the builder says ....

You can't all fit in here !

Seriasly, I'm at the cutting hose step, I have the Lamptron FC8 at the top, and then the XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir/Pump Combo.
Every wire is connected for running a mobo-less fill/bleed/leak test. And I get a thot, lets see if the front panel goes on, coz I have had some problems with mounting the bay res - it won't sit flat on the bottom bay because of the attached pump's outer ring, which hangs down about a 1/4" or so, and you can't get the side screws in on both sides, coz it won't sit even. Sure enuf, the front panel does go on, but the bay res is pushed bak on the unfastened side ! That's when I see that the pump ring is the culprit, so I move the bay res up a bay.

So then I make sure I have the i/o panel on right, then it hits me - I had better check that rom drive, I haven't put it in for a couple days.

Sure enuf, it won't go in. Why ?..... because of the bay res pump ring !! There's no way I can get all 3 components to fit together in the Switch's 4 bays.

Now I know a lot of people go without a rom drive, but with a w/c kit like the XSPC RX360 - extreme version - and the Switch being a common pairing .... I haven't seen a word about this, so I'm wondering what would OCN do ?

The build is for a buddy, I'm guessing he'll just say drop the rom drive, but we're older gamers that like it easy, easier to put in a disc instead of fooling around with a usb stick. That pump ring isn't going anywhere ... neither is the fan controller, not that it matters, but the top bay is the only place for the fan controller, with a 360 rad butting right up next to the FC. Really, when using a 360 or 420 rad, the Switch only has 3 bays in effect. Plus, its not the dealkiller, but this guy lives 800 miles from me, and he happens to be driving thru my part of the state this coming Monday, it sure would be nice to drop this build off and avoid the shipping terrors.

The whole point of this build was to get away from all in one sealed w/c solutions, and save money. About the only way out is to buy a cylinder res ..... which means more fittings, more figuring out stuff .... I want this build to END !!!

But if you can figure another way to keep the FC, the dual bay res, and the rom drive - and I won't buy those crap slim roms or the external roms - let it pour out here !

Here's the pic, res is 105mm deep, or a bit more than 4" - not near enuf for a standard rom drive


*WWOCND ?*


----------



## Bucshman

Quote:


> Sure enuf, it won't go in. Why ?..... because of the bay res pump ring !! There's no way I can get all 3 components to fit together in the Switch's 4 bays.


Correct me if I am wrong, but the outer pump ring is plastic right? Why don't you just shave down the side you need to make everything fit? If it is taken off and put back on the shaved side should end up in the same spot every time, and it will not have any negative effect on the pump itself.
Good Luck!


----------



## socketus

+1 for that ! - I thought about that, but its metal, i'm pretty sure, but the logic holds. Thanks for the reply


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Hey guys..can I be added to the XSPC kit club??? LOL!!!
> 
> Will be posting the pix of my CM Storm Trooper with the WC loop once i get my DSLR camera back from my girlfriend!!!


If you would like to join the XSPC club just go HERE and sign yourself into it


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong, but the outer pump ring is plastic right? Why don't you just shave down the side you need to make everything fit? If it is taken off and put back on the shaved side should end up in the same spot every time, and it will not have any negative effect on the pump itself.
> Good Luck!


I did that, used a dremel, didn't take much, quicker than a file. And it fits. I hadn't tried putting the rom drive on top of the bay res, but it worked - before dremelling those fins.
Late at night, the brain doesn't always work so clearly, thanks again, I got the same reply over in the Switch thread, with a link to a posted pic.


----------



## Siamak8286

Hey guys, I currently have a Corsair H100 which im getting some silent fans for it as its way too loud for my liking, I can send the H100 back and pay extra $200 and grab the Raystorm EX240 kit but my question is:

1. how are the temp and noise difference between H100 and Rasa Raystorm EX240 kit if both of them using the same silent fans?

2. Is it worth it to exchange my H100 with that kit? or should I stick to what I have?

3. what I like about close loops is that I can install it and forget about it, how much maintenance Rasa kits require? I move my system out every month to clean it and I hear if you have a custom liquid cooling you can't move your case unless you drain the entire system. is that true?

My Rig:
MB: Asus Maximus IV Extreme CPU: Core i7 2600K
GFX: Asus GTX 670 DCII TOP RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB
SSD: Samsung 830 SSD 512GB PS: Corsair HX1050


----------



## ginger_nuts

Answers, I think:

1. Temps are far better with the XSPC kits, The h100 is far more quiet.

2. If you want quiet and simple stick with the h100.

3. Maintenance with a custom kit is approx 9-12 months, and no you do not need to empty the loop to move or clean the other parts of the computer.

This is based on my personal experience with the Rasa RX240 kit with the X2O 750 pump/res.

It maybe a different response with the D5 pump/res combo.


----------



## JourdanWithaU

It depends on what you want to do in the long run.

I considered the H100. The silly part is the the my corsair case (500R) is kind designed to house the H100 without modification. I ended up cutting a few things to fit my custom water loop.

When I bought my Rasa kit, it was only about $30 more than a H100 and I liked the added options of running a custom loop. I would eventually like to have more things other than just my processor watercooled so a custom loop made sense in that respect. But it's also kind of an addiction. You can keep adding to a custom loop. With a H100, you put it in, maybe change out the fans, and you're set. With a custom loop, you can change the fans, you can change the tubing, you can change the fittings, you can change the blocks, you can change EVERYTHING. You can also add whatever you want. en you start to look around at watercooling bits, you start to find cool stuff that you want and would be perfect for your build.

As far as maintenance... I have distilled water in my loop and haven't touched it for months. The system is also totally sealed so I can pick up my case and do whatever, no water is going to get out. The drawback, the rig gets really heavy with all the water and watercooling components in it.

This is what my Rasa kit has evolved to so far.


----------



## PTCB

Greeting XSPC kit club members,

I have already posted this in the my other thread, but this seems to be the right place to post, considering the fact I'm getting the XSPC kit.

Hi all! I've been on the fence about getting a custom loop. But now that I've decided to take the plunge, I need your opinion on the planned setup. Piece of information, I'm new to WCing (PC) but have experiences with automobile cooling system and plumbing (limited).

It's for my Gaming PC (2012) rig.

The proposed loop:
*XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 Kit* (1 x 240 Rad)


*XSPC EX120 Radiator* (1 x 120 Rad)


*XSPC Razor GTX680 x 2*

Question:

Will it be enough for 1 x 3770K (24/7 OC) and 2 x GTX670 (Mild OC) as some people have suggested the 120mm of rad space per component rule? And will the pump be able to feed the system with decent flow?
Can I use 3/8*1/2 tubing with the kit? Does the included tubing have plasticizer problem?
What sort of fittings do I need if I want to stick with the stock barbs and tubings?
Thank you so much. I hope this will set me in the right direction.


----------



## iandroo888

hey everyone. im considering on getting a rasa kit from frozencpu. specifically the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 Universal CPU / Triple Radiator Water Cooling Kit w/ Updated Pump and Free Kill Coil for my sig rig.

what you guys think? good setup for a cpu only loop so far? this is my first step into an actual water cooling setup as well. has anyone had any problems with the pump/res that comes in the kit? heard some people saying it dying within a few months or leaking.

when i get more money, ill get the chipset block for the Rampage IV Extreme too but for now, just cpu. what you guys think? my h50 is really lacking now in the cooling department, cant handle the heat from the i7 3930k.

is it better to use a rs240 extreme vs a rs360... wondering which is a better buy.. either way, the radiator wont fit inside my case so id need to put it outside.. size shouldnt really matter aside from how im gonna put my computer after its all done lol XD either i mount them outside or the only inside solution i can think of right now is modding my top panel for a 240 but fans would probably still be outside too XD just wondering the performance between the two radiators ... as i think the rest of the kit is the same?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Greeting XSPC kit club members,
> I have already posted this in the my other thread, but this seems to be the right place to post, considering the fact I'm getting the XSPC kit.
> Hi all! I've been on the fence about getting a custom loop. But now that I've decided to take the plunge, I need your opinion on the planned setup. Piece of information, I'm new to WCing (PC) but have experiences with automobile cooling system and plumbing (limited).
> It's for my Gaming PC (2012) rig.
> The proposed loop:
> *XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 Kit* (1 x 240 Rad)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *XSPC EX120 Radiator* (1 x 120 Rad)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *XSPC Razor GTX680 x 2*
> Question:
> 
> Will it be enough for 1 x 3770K (24/7 OC) and 2 x GTX670 (Mild OC) as some people have suggested the 120mm of rad space per component rule? And will the pump be able to feed the system with decent flow?
> Can I use 3/8*1/2 tubing with the kit? Does the included tubing have plasticizer problem?
> What sort of fittings do I need if I want to stick with the stock barbs and tubings?
> Thank you so much. I hope this will set me in the right direction.


I would try for 2 240's or a 240 and 2 120's. as for the pump, with 4 120's of space, you will be at the upper end of what the pump can handle, though the new D5 pump would be able to handle it just fine. 3/8 * 1/2 tubing would be fine, but the stock stuff does have some plasticizer discoloring. you can get the stock XSPC fitting HERE.


----------



## Krusher33

Not to forget... can the case fit it all?

I'm leak testing 2 different set ups right now and felt compelled to share something. On one side, I have the RASA 240 kit. On the other side, I have MCW82, Micro Res, Koolance PMP-450 pump, and Black Ice 240 rad.

The Rasa kit took like 30 seconds to fill, get all major bubbles out, and refill. Got it going and all the little bubbles were gone in 30 minutes or less.

The other set up however... took much longer to get the major bubbles out. And then it took multiple hours for the little bubbles to go away. Like overnight worth.


----------



## Snyderman34

Hey guys. So I've been looking at the Rasa RS240 kit and am pretty sure I'd like to use it for my first WC loop. I think I'll go with these bits (GPU block is going on n ASUS HD 7970 DCii TOP):

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c83s137

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15664/ex-rad-373/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_Dual_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s160#blank

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15080/ex-blc-1067/XSPC_Razor_HD_7970_Full_Coverage_VGA_Block_-_Reference_Design.html?tl=g30c309s1590

And arrange like so (yellow=rad, red=res/pump, blue=fans, black=mobo, grey=graphics card:



My only fitment concern is the vertical rad, as it will be very close to the graphics card but should clear it with the slim rad (barely). I believe I also have enough clearance at the top to put the rad that comes with the kit on top along with 2 Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance fans. I would leave the 200s in the top space of the case, just reverse them into intakes. Tubing would go:

res/pump->top rad->cpu->gpu->vertical rad->res/pump

Does this appear to be ok, and if not what needs to be changed? I'm open to going with a different rad in place of the vertical one (if a thick 120mm would work fine I can mount it in the bottom of the case instead. I could also take the top 200s out and put the rad there if needed.) Something else I was thinking about (after reading the nifty FAQ) was going with the RX240 in the case then trying the 200s on top. If they didn't work using the SP120s in the top compartment. Then running the thick 120mm rad in the bottom with a couple more SP120s, like so:


----------



## socketus

Here you go, check the *DOES IT FIT ?* section in the first post of the *Official NZXT Switch 810 thread*

There is a bulleted list of the rads by size that will fit.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1209048/official-nzxt-switch-810-thread

Right below that, are build log links - these logs show off the mods needed for the fatter/longer rads. The thinner/shorter rads will drop right in.

Hope that helps !


----------



## Snyderman34

Took a look through those. Pretty helpful. Also stumbled across this gem: http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/06/18/thermaltake_chaser_mki_computer_case_review/5 Thanks for your help!


----------



## Krusher33

I have switched out my H60 with a Rasa 240 last night. Before disassembling, the H60 hovered at 59-60 degrees for several minutes after an hour of Prime.

The Rasa was at 50 degrees after 45 minutes but was probably still climbing. I really needed to get to bed so I couldn't wait on it any longer.


----------



## Snyderman34

OK so I can fit the radio want up top. I definitely want to crossfire my cards eventually so I'll be doing that first. Here' my thought:

Res/pump->2x120 thick rad->cpu->120 rad on back->gpu->gpu->120 rad thick->res/pump.

It pretty much be a custom loop at this point


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> OK so I can fit the radio want up top. I definitely want to crossfire my cards eventually so I'll be doing that first. Here' my thought:
> Res/pump->2x120 thick rad->cpu->120 rad on back->gpu->gpu->120 rad thick->res/pump.
> It pretty much be a custom loop at this point


make sure you go with the new D5 style pump, i'm fairly certain the older dual 5.25" bay res/pump isn't going to be able to handle all of that.


----------



## JayKaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucshman*
> 
> I'm not a professional at water cooling by any means, but I think you have a few unnecessary 90 degree fittings in there. Any time you use a 90 you restrict the coolant movement threw your lines. Based on your pictures, and If it were my loop, I would remove about 6 of the 90 degree fittings, add a few (2) 45 degree fittings, and run the 7970's in parallel. The XSPC 750 pump is good, but in custom loop territory (where you are at), is not the greatest. To get the best performance out of your system I would also say go with a more powerful pump and add a larger res.
> I'm not knocking you, just throwing out an opinion. And by the way "The Beast" is an understatement for 2 7970's in x-fire, I'm jealous!


Yeah I know the bends add to the restriction but i was after the clean look as its hard to see the black polly pipe but there's a few thing's I want to change I'm not 100% happy with the piping layout cheer's n thank's


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> make sure you go with the new D5 style pump, i'm fairly certain the older dual 5.25" bay res/pump isn't going to be able to handle all of that.


Alright. I figured I'd need a pretty hearty pump for it. If I need I could always do dual pumps I suppose


----------



## dejahboi

Anyone experience with the new Raystorm kits? I bought the Raystorm EX360 and should be arriving on tuesday







. My only gripe is that I didn't get the variable speed pump (my fault) is the basic okay?


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dejahboi*
> 
> Anyone experience with the new Raystorm kits? I bought the Raystorm EX360 and should be arriving on tuesday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My only gripe is that I didn't get the variable speed pump (my fault) is the basic okay?


The basics fine, you really only need to change it when you go at least 3 blocks and couple rads, otherwise its perfectly fine


----------



## CloudX

So is it safe to say that I shouldn't use the EK block available for my Asus DCUII? Since its nickel? I plan on using distilled water and a kill coil.

I ordered the 750 raystorm extreme rx360 kit with the d5 etc.


----------



## Kokin

Anyone with the EX240 and/or EX120 interested in trading for a white RX240? Mine has no bent/broken fins and was just painted recently. I really want to mount my rad (with push/pull) on top of my Prodigy, but I can't with the thickness of the RX rad.









Please PM me or see my classified here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1296498/xspc-rx240-painted-white-for-ex240-and-or-ex120
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudX*
> 
> So is it safe to say that I shouldn't use the EK block available for my Asus DCUII? Since its nickel? I plan on using distilled water and a kill coil.
> I ordered the 750 raystorm extreme rx360 kit with the d5 etc.


There shouldn't be a problem at all. All the metals in your loop will work together, though you may see corrosion with the Nickel plating if EK hasn't fixed their nickel-plating issues, however you won't see any performance decreases if you get corrosion, it may just look ugly if you got the nickel/plexi version waterblock.


----------



## jared872

OK guys I have a problem with my RS240 kit. When I originally installed it I was getting idle temps in the high 30s and max load temps around 50 which I was very pleased with. I recently noticed my idle temps around 50 and loads well over 60 (turned test off here after 10 seconds). I took the loop apart, flushed everything and reassembled. Temps looked great, for a day. After that they returned to where they were before I took apart the loop.

Any suggestions?

Also, the inside of the tubing has a while coating ( I assume plasticizer), yes it is the tubing that comes with the kit. Should I get new tubing? What kind is currently the best? Should I disassemble my block to make sure there isnt any build up inside it? What is the best way to clean the radiator and pump/res?

Thanks in advance.

Jared


----------



## socketus

Maybe your answer lies in this multi-linked thread

http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling-essential-threads

I dont know enough to suggest other than basics by asking some questions :

How is your loop set up ?
Rad cleanup - 10% vinegar to tap water or distilled water, and do the rad shake thing several times - 5 to 15 minutes - let it sit - drain it.
pump/res cleanup - there is a thread on here specifically about plasticizer cleanup

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery

Here's a search results in the watercooling forum for plasticizer

http://www.overclock.net/search.php?search=plasticizer&containingforum%5B%5D=61&output=all&action=disp


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jared872*
> 
> Also, the inside of the tubing has a while coating ( I assume plasticizer), yes it is the tubing that comes with the kit. Should I get new tubing? What kind is currently the best?


How long have you had the kit for before plasticizer problem set in? And what sort of fluid have you been using and with what additive(s)? Cheers.


----------



## jared872

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> How long have you had the kit for before plasticizer problem set in? And what sort of fluid have you been using and with what additive(s)? Cheers.


I noticed the temps changing after about a month. I have been using straight distilled water with a kill coil, nothing else.


----------



## felang

So I'm finally ready to jump to WC (so please bear with me) and have read good things about these XSPC Raystorm Kits. First off, I'm looking into cooling a 2600K @4.5Ghz and a GTX 680. My limiting factor seems to be my case (Corsair Carbide 500R). Seeing as I just bought it I won't be looking into getting a larger case anytime soon. Apparently I would have just enough space for a ex240 rad with a single set of fans at the top of the case. How would that rad cope with both my CPU and GPU? Also, I'm having a hard time finding kits with ex240 rad from a distributor in the US, does anybody know where I could get one? Lastly, is the D5 needed for my loop or would a 750 be enough? The D5 seems to be a lot more expensive.


----------



## jared872

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Maybe your answer lies in this multi-linked thread
> http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling-essential-threads
> I dont know enough to suggest other than basics by asking some questions :
> How is your loop set up ?
> Rad cleanup - 10% vinegar to tap water or distilled water, and do the rad shake thing several times - 5 to 15 minutes - let it sit - drain it.
> pump/res cleanup - there is a thread on here specifically about plasticizer cleanup
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery
> Here's a search results in the watercooling forum for plasticizer
> http://www.overclock.net/search.php?search=plasticizer&containingforum%5B%5D=61&output=all&action=disp


Thanks for the links, I have already seen them thought









Any one else have any ideas why my temps are getting hotter and hotter at idle and load?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felang*
> 
> So I'm finally ready to jump to WC (so please bear with me) and have read good things about these XSPC Raystorm Kits. First off, I'm looking into cooling a 2600K @4.5Ghz and a GTX 680. My limiting factor seems to be my case (Corsair Carbide 500R). Seeing as I just bought it I won't be looking into getting a larger case anytime soon. Apparently I would have just enough space for a ex240 rad with a single set of fans at the top of the case. How would that rad cope with both my CPU and GPU? Also, I'm having a hard time finding kits with ex240 rad from a distributor in the US, does anybody know where I could get one? Lastly, is the D5 needed for my loop or would a 750 be enough? The D5 seems to be a lot more expensive.


Try this link for the extreme ex240 kit with D5 pump


----------



## felang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Try this link for the extreme ex240 kit with D5 pump


Thanks! So does anybody know if the 240ex rad fits on top of a 500R without mods beneath the mesh cover? What do you guys think about cooling a 2600K and GTX680 with the extreme 240ex kit?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jared872*
> 
> Thanks for the links, I have already seen them thought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any one else have any ideas why my temps are getting hotter and hotter at idle and load?


This may be a hassle, but disassemble your loop and check your CPU block. It's possible that there is some oxidation (black build up) that could be blocking water flow. Also check your pump to make sure it's running at full speed.

This was my Raystorm when I got bought it used:



This is normal and should not affect performance too much, but it's possible that you may have had some sort of build up inside your block.

Another thing is to make sure that you are properly outputting the pump/water flow towards the inlet of the Rasa instead of the outlet. This will add A LOT of restriction to your block and will kill a lot of your water flow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felang*
> 
> Thanks! So does anybody know if the 240ex rad fits on top of a 500R without mods beneath the mesh cover? What do you guys think about cooling a 2600K and GTX680 with the extreme 240ex kit?


I would recommend a RX240 for those two components or if you want to stay with the thinner EX, I suggest getting a 360 or 240+120. My single RX240 cools my 3570K and 7950 pretty well, but I'll be switching to a EX240+EX120 so I can clean up my build and mount things in much better places than what I have now.

That being said, a single EX240 can handle the combo decently, but overclocking will yield temps closer to higher-end aircooling. If you stick to stock, you will be fine (but who really runs stock?







).

If you didn't know, RX = lower speed fans and EX = mid/high speed fans. The EX will actually beat the RX if you decide to run fans at around 1600~2000+ RPM. I know a lot of watercoolers here go for silence instead though, so the EX normally trails behind the RX at lower fan speeds.


----------



## k4sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> My single RX240 cools my 3570K and 7950 pretty well


Seriously ?
Got a 7950 and a i5 2500K both overclocked and a XSPC 240 and phobya 140 both thick and the temps were a little bit awful.
I would be interested to know about your temps with only one 240 thick rad.
Btw i use a HDPC installation.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k4sh*
> 
> Seriously ?
> Got a 7950 and a i5 2500K both overclocked and a XSPC 240 and phobya 140 both thick and the temps were a little bit awful.
> I would be interested to know about your temps with only one 240 thick rad.
> Btw i use a HDPC installation.


My 3570K clocked at 4.7ghz/1.264v idles around 37~45C and gets to 74~85C (for the cores) during Prime95 AVX, regular Prime95 is about 10C lower. Gaming temps are around 60~70C. *Note that despite the high core temps, my CPU is outputting less heat/power than a 2500K/2600K due to the lower wattage output of IB vs SB.*

My GPU at 1285/1600 1.38v/1.625v idles around 40C and loads around 55C (loads to 45~47C for less demanding games, even with Eyefinity). If I decide to lower my overclock, it normally loads between 40~45C.

Edit: I do live in Silicon Valley in Northern California, so the weather is usually fair and not too hot. My ambient temps are usually in the 18~25C range depending on the time of day.

I am running Gentle Typhoons in push/pull on my RX240, but set at around 1000~1200RPM.

The differences could be just based on ambient temps and also parts (I use a D5 pump and it's a lot more powerful than the XSPC X20 750 pump/res). You may also need to remount and reapply paste in the case that there is bad contact.


----------



## Kokin

I just learned how to disable my iGPU (my board does not have an obvious option for it) and it looks like temps for Prime95 with AVX instructions have dropped a good 3~5C just right off the bat. Same for the regular Prime95.

From my experience, max temps don't exceed another 4~6C from the starting max temps even after 3 hours of testing. It fluctuates depending on the portion of the instruction set. I don't know if Prime95 testing after 5+ hours has a higher heat output, but there's really no point past 2~3 hours for me since that is already BF3 stable and I don't require higher stability for things like rendering or folding.


----------



## felang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> This may be a hassle, but disassemble your loop and check your CPU block. It's possible that there is some oxidation (black build up) that could be blocking water flow. Also check your pump to make sure it's running at full speed.
> This was my Raystorm when I got bought it used:
> 
> This is normal and should not affect performance too much, but it's possible that you may have had some sort of build up inside your block.
> Another thing is to make sure that you are properly outputting the pump/water flow towards the inlet of the Rasa instead of the outlet. This will add A LOT of restriction to your block and will kill a lot of your water flow.
> I would recommend a RX240 for those two components or if you want to stay with the thinner EX, I suggest getting a 360 or 240+120. My single RX240 cools my 3570K and 7950 pretty well, but I'll be switching to a EX240+EX120 so I can clean up my build and mount things in much better places than what I have now.
> That being said, a single EX240 can handle the combo decently, but overclocking will yield temps closer to higher-end aircooling. If you stick to stock, you will be fine (but who really runs stock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> If you didn't know, RX = lower speed fans and EX = mid/high speed fans. The EX will actually beat the RX if you decide to run fans at around 1600~2000+ RPM. I know a lot of watercoolers here go for silence instead though, so the EX normally trails behind the RX at lower fan speeds.


I would love to be able to go with a 360mm, but unfortunately my case (Corsair Carbide 500R) only has room for a single 240mm slim radiator at the top (designed for Corsair H100 I guess), I don´t know if the RX240 would fit, I´m definitely going for silence over performance. For my vid card (GTX680) I mostly just want to keep it under 70 deg so that it doesn´t throttle. Your 240 + 120 seems like it might be doable (mounting the 120 at the front).

This just seem to be turning into to much of a hassle, might as well keep running the megahalems for CPU and get a DWOOD bracket for my video card.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felang*
> 
> Thanks! So does anybody know if the 240ex rad fits on top of a 500R without mods beneath the mesh cover? What do you guys think about cooling a 2600K and GTX680 with the extreme 240ex kit?


I just put together my raystorm kit with an ex240 as my only rad. It handles both the ..7970 and I5&2500k quite well. the 7970 is oc to 1200/1600 @ 2.56 vcore and the I5 is oc to 4.3ghz @ 1.280. On bf3, the card nevrer goes up beyond 45c and processor stays at 50's. mine is also in a 500r. You can fit ex240 by putting it underneath the rad chamber and use the chamber for fans.


----------



## felang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> I just put together my raystorm kit with an ex240 as my only rad. It handles both the ..7970 and I5&2500k quite well. the 7970 is oc to 1200/1600 @ 2.56 vcore and the I5 is oc to 4.3ghz @ 1.280. On bf3, the card nevrer goes up beyond 45c and processor stays at 50's. mine is also in a 500r. You can fit ex240 by putting it underneath the rad chamber and use the chamber for fans.


Great! This is just what I wanted to hear! Although now I don´t know if I should get an ex120 as well and try to mount it at the front (removing a set of drive bays). I have to get all this stuff shipped to Central America so I might as well buy everything together.

One last question, I plan on getting a XSPC Razor block for the 680, will I need to buy any additional tubing or compression fittings? Sorry if dumb question but it´s my first time doing WC.


----------



## Los Hog

You can always use a 360 rad by putting it on the back or top of the case or add in a 120 inside the case were it would fit


----------



## felang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Los Hog*
> 
> You can always use a 360 rad by putting it on the back or top of the case or add in a 120 inside the case were it would fit


Yeah, I´m pretty sure I´m going to go with an ex240 at the top and ex140 at the bottom right next to the drive cage. I´ve been checking dimensions and it should all fit. Similar to this biuld:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1119694/official-corsair-carbide-series-300r-400r-500r-owners-club/1140#post_16642652


----------



## jared872

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> This may be a hassle, but disassemble your loop and check your CPU block. It's possible that there is some oxidation (black build up) that could be blocking water flow. Also check your pump to make sure it's running at full speed.
> This was my Raystorm when I got bought it used:
> 
> This is normal and should not affect performance too much, but it's possible that you may have had some sort of build up inside your block.
> Another thing is to make sure that you are properly outputting the pump/water flow towards the inlet of the Rasa instead of the outlet. This will add A LOT of restriction to your block and will kill a lot of your water flow.


Thanks for the recommendation. I checked and the tubing is going in the in and out the out so I am good there. I just took apart the whole loop and flushed it so I probably won't take apart the block until I buy some better tubing. +rep

One more thing, I have started getting some air bubbles at the outlet of the cpu block. I am 100% sure it was bubble free when I put it back together. Assembled outside of case and made sure there was no air. How does this happen? Can tubing leak air around fittings? If so I will get some worm clamps instead of the zip ties I am currently using.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> I just put together my raystorm kit with an ex240 as my only rad. It handles both the ..7970 and I5&2500k quite well. the 7970 is oc to 1200/1600 @ 2.56 vcore and the I5 is oc to 4.3ghz @ 1.280. On bf3, the card nevrer goes up beyond 45c and processor stays at 50's. mine is also in a 500r. You can fit ex240 by putting it underneath the rad chamber and use the chamber for fans.


Exactly what I was looking for! Running a ThermalTake Chaser MK-1 and was trying to figure out if this would work well. Think I'll add an EX120 in the bottom and call it a day. Thank you sir!


----------



## k4sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> My 3570K clocked at 4.7ghz/1.264v idles around 37~45C and gets to 74~85C (for the cores) during Prime95 AVX, regular Prime95 is about 10C lower. Gaming temps are around 60~70C. *Note that despite the high core temps, my CPU is outputting less heat/power than a 2500K/2600K due to the lower wattage output of IB vs SB.*
> My GPU at 1285/1600 1.38v/1.625v idles around 40C and loads around 55C (loads to 45~47C for less demanding games, even with Eyefinity). If I decide to lower my overclock, it normally loads between 40~45C.
> Edit: I do live in Silicon Valley in Northern California, so the weather is usually fair and not too hot. My ambient temps are usually in the 18~25C range depending on the time of day.
> I am running Gentle Typhoons in push/pull on my RX240, but set at around 1000~1200RPM.
> The differences could be just based on ambient temps and also parts (I use a D5 pump and it's a lot more powerful than the XSPC X20 750 pump/res). You may also need to remount and reapply paste in the case that there is bad contact.


So there must be something wrong in my WC system as my GPU is clocked @ 1170/1137mV for a maximum temp of 60°C which, i admit, is not an excess.


----------



## Constantine85

Greetings all,
Long time OCN member, first time dipping into liquid cooling - pun intended
I have a massive air cooled system now as you can see in the sig rig. I am looking at the RS240 right now thinking its a great place to start. I do some overclocking and want to bring my 2500k to the 5Ghz level but timid of doing that on air cooling. I am also looking to deplete the noise a little form the amount of fan I have to chill the case and two loud CPU fans.
Questions I have are:
How easy was it to install the kit?
How easy are they to maintain?
any trouble with leaks, rad placement ( I know that depends on case, if anyone has a Coolermaster 690II, they can answer that as I am looking to place the rad up to underneath the bezel)

Overall value? Right now I am looking at about $170 initial investment .


----------



## Krusher33

I just installed a RASA kit for the first time and as my first WC experience last weekend. Very easy to do. But I got my kit used. If going new, I would have gone Raystorm. Martinslab tested as just a bit better than the Rasa but easier on the pump. In fact, I think XSPC is discontinuing Rasa and just going Raystorm.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Constantine85*
> 
> Greetings all,
> Long time OCN member, first time dipping into liquid cooling - pun intended
> I have a massive air cooled system now as you can see in the sig rig. I am looking at the RS240 right now thinking its a great place to start. I do some overclocking and want to bring my 2500k to the 5Ghz level but timid of doing that on air cooling. I am also looking to deplete the noise a little form the amount of fan I have to chill the case and two loud CPU fans.
> Questions I have are:
> How easy was it to install the kit?
> How easy are they to maintain?
> any trouble with leaks, rad placement ( I know that depends on case, if anyone has a Coolermaster 690II, they can answer that as I am looking to place the rad up to underneath the bezel)
> Overall value? Right now I am looking at about $170 initial investment .


The kits are truly quite easy to install.

Maintenance depends on what coolant you plan to run, many say Distilled water with a kill coil (99.999% silver) is all you need, but I am a little skeptical, and changing to a blend of Mayhems stuff. If you have any questions or want to know more ask them HERE.

As for them leaking that is always the installers fault, there is no known problems with them.

The RS will fit in the CM 690II, but I do not think it will fit between the plastic bezel and case (it might, I have just never tried). It will fit inside the case up the top or down the bottom (if the bottom of the HDD is removed)


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jared872*
> 
> Thanks for the recommendation. I checked and the tubing is going in the in and out the out so I am good there. I just took apart the whole loop and flushed it so I probably won't take apart the block until I buy some better tubing. +rep
> One more thing, I have started getting some air bubbles at the outlet of the cpu block. I am 100% sure it was bubble free when I put it back together. Assembled outside of case and made sure there was no air. How does this happen? Can tubing leak air around fittings? If so I will get some worm clamps instead of the zip ties I am currently using.
> Thanks for the help.


It's possible that you had trapped air inside the CPU block. I once had that when I started my first loop and once I cleared it up, temps dropped 5C or 10C, I forgot what it was exactly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k4sh*
> 
> So there must be something wrong in my WC system as my GPU is clocked @ 1170/1137mV for a maximum temp of 60°C which, i admit, is not an excess.


That's a bit too high, even if you're in a hot place. Try to remount the block, otherwise you may have flow issues in your loop as you have a huge amount surface area for cooling just a CPU and GPU.


----------



## Snyderman34

Ok, so I have my final list and just need some input to make sure I actually have everything I need (pretty sure I do) for cooling an i5-2500K and a non reference HD 7970:

-XSPC Raystorm EX240 kit http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16070/ex-wat-210/XSPC_Raystorm_EX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Kill_Coil_.html

-Swiftech Mcr-120XP rad http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13544/ex-rad-261/Swiftech_MCR120-XP_eXtreme_Performance_120mm_Slim_Radiator_-_MCR120-XP.html

-Bitspower G 1/4 compression fittings (x4) (Kit appears to come with 6) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10036/ex-tub-605/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC6.html

-EK Radeon HD 7970 DCII Block http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15736/ex-blc-1101/EK_Radeon_HD_7970_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Electroless_Nickel_Plated_EK-FC7970_DCII_-_AcetalEN_Nickel.html?tl=g30c309s1590

All run RES/Pump->240 rad->CPU->GPU->120 rad-> Res/Pump. Might think about deleting the second rad if it's not needed though. Should work fine, yes?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Ok, so I have my final list and just need some input to make sure I actually have everything I need (pretty sure I do) for cooling an i5-2500K and a non reference HD 7970:
> -XSPC Raystorm EX240 kit http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16070/ex-wat-210/XSPC_Raystorm_EX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Kill_Coil_.html
> -Swiftech Mcr-120XP rad http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13544/ex-rad-261/Swiftech_MCR120-XP_eXtreme_Performance_120mm_Slim_Radiator_-_MCR120-XP.html
> -Bitspower G 1/4 compression fittings (x4) (Kit appears to come with 6) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10036/ex-tub-605/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC6.html
> -EK Radeon HD 7970 DCII Block http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15736/ex-blc-1101/EK_Radeon_HD_7970_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Electroless_Nickel_Plated_EK-FC7970_DCII_-_AcetalEN_Nickel.html?tl=g30c309s1590
> All run RES/Pump->240 rad->CPU->GPU->120 rad-> Res/Pump. Should work fine, yes?


Any reason to not stick with XSPC with everything?

Like the 120mm rad and compression fittings, XSPC are typically good if not great value for money.

Not that it would make a huge difference but I would personal swap the order of the rad.'s to put the 120mm first then the 240 last. That way you have slightly less heat entering the pump.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Any reason to not stick with XSPC with everything?
> Like the 120mm rad and compression fittings, XSPC are typically good if not great value for money.
> Not that it would make a huge difference but I would personal swap the order of the rad.'s to put the 120mm first then the 240 last. That way you have slightly less heat entering the pump.


Not really, no. Switched the fittings and rad out to XSPC brand. About the same price. That block put me close to $500, but I was expecting that. Time to do some saving!


----------



## felang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Any reason to not stick with XSPC with everything?
> Like the 120mm rad and compression fittings, XSPC are typically good if not great value for money.
> Not that it would make a huge difference but I would personal swap the order of the rad.'s to put the 120mm first then the 240 last. That way you have slightly less heat entering the pump.


I have a similar build planned and was planning on going

Pump/Res > 240 rad > CPU > 140 rad > GPU > Pump/Res

My thought process being that this way I´d get lees heat entering the GPU. How bad is it to go straight to Pump/res after GPU?

First time WC so be gentle


----------



## socketus

It doesn't matter about the order as long as the Pump is first after the res. So if you're doing one of those xspc dual bay res with the pump attached, you're covered. I'd run the res outlet to the cpu - rad - gpu - back to res.


----------



## dejahboi

For aesthetic reasons, would it be safe to put a second Res in the loop? Say

Res/pump-CPU-Rad-2nd Res-back to res/pump?


----------



## k4sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> That's a bit too high, even if you're in a hot place. Try to remount the block, otherwise you may have flow issues in your loop as you have a huge amount surface area for cooling just a CPU and GPU.


I remounted my block on GPU. I applied too much thermal grease on the Cu adapter on both sides. Now the T° reaches 49°C in DX9 game after 15 mins of playing 1170/1137 mV


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felang*
> 
> I have a similar build planned and was planning on going
> Pump/Res > 240 rad > CPU > 140 rad > GPU > Pump/Res
> My thought process being that this way I´d get lees heat entering the GPU. How bad is it to go straight to Pump/res after GPU?
> First time WC so be gentle


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> It doesn't matter about the order as long as the Pump is first after the res. So if you're doing one of those xspc dual bay res with the pump attached, you're covered. I'd run the res outlet to the cpu - rad - gpu - back to res.


There is minimal effect on CPU, GPU or pump for that matter, but why would you want your pump sitting in warmer coolant then needed? especially if it can be eliminated so simply.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k4sh*
> 
> I remounted my block on GPU. I applied too much thermal grease on the Cu adapter on both sides. Now the T° reaches 49°C in DX9 game after 15 mins of playing 1170/1137 mV


Awesome! That sounds like it is in the right range now.


----------



## iandroo888

anyone using the mayhem pastel red or aurora red on the RASA 750 kit with RS360? i want a red coolant to match my system.

also, these concentrates are 250ml making 750ml - 1L... about how much is needed to fill a standard 750 w/ RS360 system? also, wheres a good spot to put the silver coil


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> anyone using the mayhem pastel red or aurora red on the RASA 750 kit with RS360? i want a red coolant to match my system.
> also, these concentrates are 250ml making 750ml - 1L... about how much is needed to fill a standard 750 w/ RS360 system? also, wheres a good spot to put the silver coil


When I get my case and bits together I will be using the Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry. The pastel colors are so rich and awesome.

To fill up my RX240, with the rad. mounted externally behind, it took 2 liters.

Mayhems user club is also very helpful.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> anyone using the mayhem pastel red or aurora red on the RASA 750 kit with RS360? i want a red coolant to match my system.
> also, these concentrates are 250ml making 750ml - 1L... about how much is needed to fill a standard 750 w/ RS360 system? also, wheres a good spot to put the silver coil


It doesn't matter where you put the kill coil - in the res, in the tubing .....


----------



## iandroo888

is anyone using the stock tubing? any trouble? what size tubing do i get if i were to replace the stock tubing? i believe the ones that came with it is 7/16" ID 5/8" OD? what tubing u guys recommend to get? i want a clear one so i can do a blood red dyed liquid using some mayhem dye.


----------



## socketus

the RX360 Extreme kit @ $300 comes with a choice of xspc high flex tubing, which is good, I use the uv blue. All the other xspc kits do not give you a choice of the highflex tubing, however, if you bought the kit from Frozencpu, you had an option to buy xspc high flex tubing @ $15. If you've got the stock tubing @ 7/16 x 5/8, then stick with that size.

As for brand of tubing to be used with Mayhem's dye, PrimoChill is the one that everyone champions round heah !


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> As for brand of tubing to be used with Mayhem's dye, PrimoChill is the one that everyone champions round heah !


You obviously haven't seen the plasticizer thread here and all the rage against primochill..


----------



## alawadhi3000

I just bled my loop after about 17 months of use and everything was as good as new.

RS240 kit + PrimoChill tubes and Killcoil.


----------



## Rakin

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c321#blank
FrozenCPU is saying they are giving a silver killcoil free, is it true? I'll be ordering this kit tomorrow so I need to know if it comes with the silver killcoil or not. Can anybody confirm?


----------



## iandroo888

yup. i got that one just recently.. it comes with a free coil. when u unpack, make sure you check inside the box carefully.. its in there somewhere lol


----------



## alawadhi3000

Originally it doesn't come with Killcoil, I ordered from them a long time ago and had to buy it separately.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> You obviously haven't seen the plasticizer thread here and all the rage against primochill..


Yah I have read thru it. And here's my point - people still buy Primochill tubing. Original question was a simple one about tubing recommended to use with Mayhem's dye; I posted my response based on info gleaned from several related threads, including the apparent popular mixing of Primochill and Mayhem as posted in the Plasticizer thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000*
> 
> I just bled my loop after about 17 months of use and everything was as good as new.
> RS240 kit + PrimoChill tubes and Killcoil.


There it is.


----------



## Krusher33

I've been using the black PrimoChill tubing... water still pretty clear.

I just recently ordered a bunch of stuff and didn't get a free kill coil.


----------



## CloudX

I got a kill coil with my raystorm rx360 kit from performance-pcs. Received the kit Monday.


----------



## iandroo888

where u guys get screws for your kit? local HD/Lowes have em?

according to frozencpu, thread size is 6-32, taht seems common enough... trying to figure out what length i need to mount this huge radiator >< lol


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> where u guys get screws for your kit? local HD/Lowes have em?
> according to frozencpu, thread size is 6-32, taht seems common enough... trying to figure out what length i need to mount this huge radiator >< lol


I've always picked up mounting screws for rads from lowes or home depot.. always throw a couple rubber washers in too just for good measure..


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> where u guys get screws for your kit? local HD/Lowes have em?
> according to frozencpu, thread size is 6-32, taht seems common enough... trying to figure out what length i need to mount this huge radiator >< lol


If not mistaken to mount directecly on to the case use 6mm length, and it would depend on the fans you are using, but there is only a couple of millimetres between the rads mounting wholes and fins.

Like also mentioned above play it safe and get some extra rubber or nylon washers, that way you can build it up a bit if needed.

You could also use some home weather seal, which compresses down to about 1mm, this would also create a seal.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> where u guys get screws for your kit? local HD/Lowes have em?
> according to frozencpu, thread size is 6-32, taht seems common enough... trying to figure out what length i need to mount this huge radiator >< lol


If its the same as the RX360 rad, then its 30mm - some say 1 1/8" but that's 28.57mm - anything longer will pierce the rad.
The kit I bought from ppcs gave me enough screws for only 1 set of fans, so I grabbed some extra sets of 6-32 30mm screws from frozen.


----------



## Kokin

I use #6-32 x 1-1/4" screws, and they worked well for the RX240 and EX240. You may need a #6-32 washer for that length though.


----------



## iandroo888

So i got the radiator and fans mounted. Hooked up the kit and is running right now.. Leak testing. Was wondering though, i can't really tell if the water is moving..thought id see more water movement in the reservoir. And lots of mini bubbles... Just using plain distilled water right now. Also, how did you guys drain this kit? Did loop of pump to radiator to cpu block to res

What does everyone pump sound like? I s it like silent or sound like a mini fish tank pump?


----------



## ginger_nuts

To drain it, It is a great investment to get a T piece and a drain plug, I would suggest one that has a threaded end cap on it.
Similar to this plug.

And my experience is the pump sounds noisy for the first couple of days/weeks, depends on time of operation. But it quiet downs to a little pump sound. But it is worth just using the PC as usual, you will find air bubbles for quite some time.

To help get rid of air it is also worth, whilst turned off tipping and tilting the machine in all different directions.

I hope this has helped.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> So i got the radiator and fans mounted. Hooked up the kit and is running right now.. Leak testing. Was wondering though, i can't really tell if the water is moving..thought id see more water movement in the reservoir. And lots of mini bubbles... Just using plain distilled water right now. Also, how did you guys drain this kit? Did loop of pump to radiator to cpu block to res
> What does everyone pump sound like? I s it like silent or sound like a mini fish tank pump?


Here are some different solutiions - yah, you get your loop built, but how you gonna drain it ? ack !!

mini-valve and tee fitting used here

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1015674/width/350/height/700/flags/LL

a diagram, busier than it needs be

http://www.overclock.net/t/1236175/fill-drain-port#post_16841698

another tee and mini valve

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/20860#post_17209429

a coupla options - qdc and or mini valve

http://www.overclock.net/t/1086258/would-you-recommend-a-t-block-fitting#post_14497193

and here is what I tried at first

http://www.overclock.net/t/1280487/two-water-loop-designs-for-my-first-build/30#post_17723007

Then I realized that I didn't need the 2 fittings below the tee - just a male to male extender with the minivalve on bottom, with a hose attached to the valve's barb


----------



## iandroo888

Well since the loop is completed, need a way to drain it right now without a t joint and drain plug lol... And how do you guys pull out the barb from the hose? I can't manage to do it


----------



## ginger_nuts

Neither could I, I ended up cutting mine off, making a hell of a mess.

So don't worry, I think a lot of us on here have done the same thing.

To drain I would suggest to take it outside, place plenty of paper towel or a couple tea towels over and around everything important, then remove the radiator from the case, then try to remove the tubing from the barb.

If it is so tight you can't just pull it off, the only other option is to cut it, from the bottom up.

Beware water will go everywhere.

Let us know how you go.


----------



## Kokin

Yep that is how it is in the beginning. I suggest bringing a heatgun or hairblower in case you get anything wet. It You should also consider compression fittings as they make removing tubes a lot easier, though they are expensive.


----------



## iandroo888

iunoe why but im getting a bubble near the output of the cpu block



excuse quality but temporarily runnin system like that XD


----------



## ProRules

RS360 kit


----------



## Rakin

Okay, I was supposed to get the RS360 kit but amazon ran out of stock, so is the XSPC X20 750 Pump powerful enough to pull from an RS240 and another RX120 rad?
I'm asking this because right now I don't have enough cash for a RX240 kit so I was thinking of buying the RS240 Raystorm kit and then grab another RX120 Rad in the future when I add the GPU to the loop.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Okay, I was supposed to get the RS360 kit but amazon ran out of stock, so is the XSPC X20 750 Pump powerful enough to pull from an RS240 and another RX120 rad?
> I'm asking this because right now I don't have enough cash for a RX240 kit so I was thinking of buying the RS240 Raystorm kit and then grab another RX120 Rad in the future when I add the GPU to the loop.


In my sig is a link to pump sizing and flow rates etc. it will help you understand.


----------



## iandroo888

whats a good t-line and drain plug people have bought? preferably from performance-pcs.com cuz i wanna buy a deep blue and red mayhem dye from them too. make a blood red water


----------



## coolmiester

Just thought i'd add my Raystorm blocks


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> In my sig is a link to pump sizing and flow rates etc. it will help you understand.


Thanks.
+Rep


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> whats a good t-line and drain plug people have bought? preferably from performance-pcs.com cuz i wanna buy a deep blue and red mayhem dye from them too. make a blood red water


Providing you are using 1/2 inch tubing this plug looks great, and it is red.

As for making a T piece that is red it becomes expensive but using one of these along with three of these I think would match and suit your needs.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Providing you are using 1/2 inch tubing this plug looks great, and it is red.
> As for making a T piece that is red it becomes expensive but using one of these along with three of these I think would match and suit your needs.


doh ! red is expensive but thanks for the idea... maybe ill go with normal ones for now XD

currently using the stock 7/16 ID 5/8 OD? tubing.

if i were to consider compression fittings, and the stock ones are the G1/4" to 1/2" barbs, which size compression fittings do i get? been tryin to figure it out on frozencpu site XD


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> doh ! red is expensive but thanks for the idea... maybe ill go with normal ones for now XD
> currently using the stock 7/16 ID 5/8 OD? tubing.
> if i were to consider compression fittings, and the stock ones are the G1/4" to 1/2" barbs, which size compression fittings do i get? been tryin to figure it out on frozencpu site XD


Something a bit cheaper. I have and use primochills nylon T piece, sorry I didn't see them last night, and I suggest keeping with the plug and screw cap setup, as I have used one of primochill Nylon plugs and had to cut it out.

The reason I am suggesting 1/2" fittings is because 7/16" fits tightly over them and looks neat, also doing that reduces the importance of creating a perfect seal with a clamp. *But* it will also make it harder to remove the parts when it comes time.

When it comes to compression fittings the easy answer is: Get the same as your tubing dimensions.

I believe either this selection or this selction would work.









Don't ask









I have used compression fittings, but am going back to barb's because my personal thoughts are that compression fittings are big and bulky, whilst barbs have a slim and inconspicuous look.


----------



## iandroo888

thx ginger.. will look into it >< man even if i didnt have to buy the kit, still expensive ! rawr XD and i think my fan controller failing.. gotta press down on the knob for power.. may need to re-solder some points or something iunoe..

anyone have problems with large air bubbles forming between cpu block and res? theres like one right by the barb on the outlet from block and like one midway between block and res.


----------



## SacredChaos

Well it seems like the pump in my RX360 Kit has failed... Now I gotta figure out how I am gonna disassemble this and afford a new pump... Should I get the same pump or something different? Hopefully its the same setup pump/res dual bay.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SacredChaos*
> 
> Well it seems like the pump in my RX360 Kit has failed... Now I gotta figure out how I am gonna disassemble this and afford a new pump... Should I get the same pump or something different? Hopefully its the same setup pump/res dual bay.


Replace with the same or equivalent, Consider the D5 version. But money like most times is the biggest factor.


----------



## SacredChaos

Is the d5 better? More reliable?

Can u link it somewhere I can buy it?


----------



## socketus

Quite a few of these are D5 pumps


----------



## dejahboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> So i got the radiator and fans mounted. Hooked up the kit and is running right now.. Leak testing. Was wondering though, i can't really tell if the water is moving..thought id see more water movement in the reservoir. And lots of mini bubbles... Just using plain distilled water right now. Also, how did you guys drain this kit? Did loop of pump to radiator to cpu block to res
> What does everyone pump sound like? I s it like silent or sound like a mini fish tank pump?


Mine's very silent


----------



## iandroo888

here is how my system currently looks... after much wire clean up and moving the res/pump bay up

ordered some dye from performance-pcs.com :]

wondering why im getting such high temps tho







normally idle they sit between like mid 40s and low 50s.. then a little load once in a while bumps it to 60s..

thinkin of remounting the block..


----------



## SacredChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Replace with the same or equivalent, Consider the D5 version. But money like most times is the biggest factor.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Quite a few of these are D5 pumps


Is this worth it over the X20 750? I assume it will work just fine with everything else?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsd5dubayrec.html


----------



## felang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SacredChaos*
> 
> Is this worth it over the X20 750? I assume it will work just fine with everything else?
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsd5dubayrec.html


You wouldn´t need the pump + reservoir since I´m guessing you already have the bay res. Someone correct me if I´m wrong but I think you would only need the pump.

For example this one (no flow regulation)

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html

Or this one with flow regulation (1-5 flow setting)

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html

I´m thinking no matter what brand they are, all D5´s are basically the same.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SacredChaos*
> 
> Is this worth it over the X20 750? I assume it will work just fine with everything else?
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsd5dubayrec.html


Don't you have the RX360 kit ? don't downgrade to a Rasa pump - get that D5 pump, much better, and ya - more reliable.
I don't think the Rasa attaches to the res - it sits inside the res, not compatible with your kit. Are you not able to RMA the pump ?

All you gotta do is unscrew the bad pump from the res and screw the new pump onto the res.

*EDIT:* oh, I bet you bought the Raystorm 750 RX360 kit - that has the rasa pump inside the bayres.


----------



## SacredChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felang*
> 
> You wouldn´t need the pump + reservoir since I´m guessing you already have the bay res. Someone correct me if I´m wrong but I think you would only need the pump.
> For example this one (no flow regulation)
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html
> Or this one with flow regulation (1-5 flow setting)
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html
> I´m thinking no matter what brand they are, all D5´s are basically the same.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Don't you have the RX360 kit ? don't downgrade to a Rasa pump - get that D5 pump, much better, and ya - more reliable.
> I don't think the Rasa attaches to the res - it sits inside the res, not compatible with your kit. Are you not able to RMA the pump ?
> All you gotta do is unscrew the bad pump from the res and screw the new pump onto the res.
> *EDIT:* oh, I bet you bought the Raystorm 750 RX360 kit - that has the rasa pump inside the bayres.


This is what I have. It has the X20 750 pump. I would need a new res to use the D5 pump correct? Is the product that I linked earlier what I need?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> thx ginger.. will look into it >< man even if i didnt have to buy the kit, still expensive ! rawr XD and i think my fan controller failing.. gotta press down on the knob for power.. may need to re-solder some points or something iunoe..
> anyone have problems with large air bubbles forming between cpu block and res? theres like one right by the barb on the outlet from block and like one midway between block and res.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is how my system currently looks... after much wire clean up and moving the res/pump bay up
> ordered some dye from performance-pcs.com :]
> wondering why im getting such high temps tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> normally idle they sit between like mid 40s and low 50s.. then a little load once in a while bumps it to 60s..
> thinkin of remounting the block..


If you have bubbles still in your loop you have restricted water flow, pumps can not pump (compress) air. You need to have the machine off, and try tilting your system backwards (pretty close if not at 90 degrees) this should help bring the bubbles to the res. Just do not run your pump during this, because if you get air inside the pump it is a nightmare to get out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SacredChaos*
> 
> Is this worth it over the X20 750? I assume it will work just fine with everything else?
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsd5dubayrec.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SacredChaos*
> 
> Well it seems like the pump in my RX360 Kit has failed... Now I gotta figure out how I am gonna disassemble this and afford a new pump... Should I get the same pump or something different? Hopefully its the same setup pump/res dual bay.


If I understand you have one of these:


and pump has failed?

If correct and it is out of warranty the D5 variant is the modern replacement. It will work fine with everything as it is a stronger and quieter pump.


----------



## SacredChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If you have bubbles still in your loop you have restricted water flow, pumps can not pump (compress) air. You need to have the machine off, and try tilting your system backwards (pretty close if not at 90 degrees) this should help bring the bubbles to the res. Just do not run your pump during this, because if you get air inside the pump it is a nightmare to get out.
> If I understand you have one of these:
> 
> and pump has failed?
> If correct and it is out of warranty the D5 variant is the modern replacement. It will work fine with everything as it is a stronger and quieter pump.


Correct. It is probably still in warranty, I have contacted them and no response. I think I just want to upgrade it since I don't want this problem again... So the product I linked earlier is the modern replacement? I think I will get that then.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SacredChaos*
> 
> Correct. It is probably still in warranty, I have contacted them and no response. I think I just want to upgrade it since I don't want this problem again... So the product I linked earlier is the modern replacement? I think I will get that then.


I don't know, but it looks as tho the D5 will not work inside the res. The D5 that came with my RX360 kit attaches to the res - I have no idea if the D5 you've linked to has the ability to sit inside your res.
Who you dealing with ? It may take a business day for them to reply.


----------



## SacredChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I don't know, but it looks as tho the D5 will not work inside the res. The D5 that came with my RX360 kit attaches to the res - I have no idea if the D5 you've linked to has the ability to sit inside your res.
> Who you dealing with ? It may take a business day for them to reply.


Maybe I am just asking a stupid question. Its quite possible, I am still a noob with watercooling. But what I linked is a pump/res combo. I just want to make sure that it is the D5 everyone is talking about, and that I will be able to just hook up that pump/res combo to my current system.


----------



## socketus

sure, you can replace the Rasa res/pump combo with a d5 dual res combo, the Rasa res is dual bay, right ? I'm just saying that I don't think you can put a D5 pump inside a res that came with the Rasa pump installed inside the res. But I don't know, I'm judging from pix online.

here's the manual with pix for attaching the D5 pump to its dual bay res

http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/d5bayres2.pdf

Here's the manual for attaching a D5 pump inside of a dual bay res, that look like your model ?

http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/d5bayres.pdf

And here's a pic of the Raystorm 750 RX360 res with pump inside - looks different from the 2 above, don't it ?

http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/118.jpg


----------



## SacredChaos

Yea, I will just buy the D5 Pump/res combo. Thanks for the info.


----------



## dejahboi

Yeah you would need a D5 compatible pump/res combo. That particular res for the rasa kit won't have the pump mount for D5. So going for the D5 variant would be ideal if you were wanting to add more stuff to the loop


----------



## CloudX

Wondering what setting most of the guys with d5's are running at?


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudX*
> 
> Wondering what setting most of the guys with d5's are running at?


2 here, only pushing water through 1 RASA Block and 1 240 rad


----------



## Fickle Pickle

So I finished installing this a few weeks ago, running an i5 2500k at 4.3ghz and a HD7970 OC at 1215/1625mhz on an a Raystorm ex240 w/d5 kit + XSPC 7970 Razor Block. Considering that even at 29c ambient my GPU only goes to 46-50c on 100% bf3 load and cpu is at 53c, it's not bad at all. I was going to add another 120mm rad, but I felt the temps were quite adequate.

Here are some quickie cell phone pics!


----------



## Roikyou

Just picked up the NZXT SWITCH 810 case, running MSI Z77A-GD65 with 3770k and EVGA SuperClocked 02G-P4-2682-KR GeForce GTX 680 2GB. Looking at picking up XSPC Raystorm EX360 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ D5. Sound like I'm head in the right direction. Figured I had room, might as well go with the 360 vs the 240. Suggestions? Thanks


----------



## iandroo888

how many people are using the stock X2O? anyone recommend selling it off to get a D5 version? i know the D5 is a better pump and heard its near silent at setting level 2. just curious. looked at prices for a xspc dual bay black res with a d5 vario or variant pump, about 150 avg. so even if i can somehow sell the X2O for $50, gotta fork over $100 XD


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Just picked up the NZXT SWITCH 810 case, running MSI Z77A-GD65 with 3770k and EVGA SuperClocked 02G-P4-2682-KR GeForce GTX 680 2GB. Looking at picking up XSPC Raystorm EX360 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ D5. Sound like I'm head in the right direction. Figured I had room, might as well go with the 360 vs the 240. Suggestions? Thanks


Sounds good, your temps will be plenty fine with a 360 rad. Heck with a 240 and a pretty hefty OC my temps are more than adequate.


----------



## Roikyou

Thanks stu. Tempted to pick up the 680 block also but confused by the barbs they offer. Nothing matches the 7/16 x 5/8 host that comes with the ex360 kit. Anyone know how that works, am I over reading it? What barbs do you choose if you go with the 680 block?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Thanks stu. Tempted to pick up the 680 block also but confused by the barbs they offer. Nothing matches the 7/16 x 5/8 host that comes with the ex360 kit. Anyone know how that works, am I over reading it? What barbs do you choose if you go with the 680 block?


Ok, I'll take a stab ... who is "they" offering 680 block with barbs ? that's a new one on me. I don't think gpu blocks come with any fittings nor barbs.
The EX360 kit comes with 6 compression fittings, 7/16x5/8 - thats enough for a cpu only loop.
I know, I just built such a loop in the Switch with the RX360 kit.


----------



## Roikyou

Sorry, they offer barbs or compression fittings which comes with the ex360. They're out of stock for the xspc 680 block but if you look at the fittings, the hose inside/outside diameter does not match the ex 360 kit was the point I was trying to make. Hopefully a little close to making sense.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16257/ex-blc-1135/XSPC_Razor_nVidia_GTX_680_Full_Coverage_VGA_Block_-_Reference_Design.html


----------



## socketus

Oh, my bad. You could do 1/2" barbs and the 7/16" ID tubing will fit that - with barbs, you always go up a size on the barb compared to the ID of the tubing.

Compression fittings - you want the same size as your tubing ID and OD. The block uses G 1/4" threads, so the 1/2" barbs will work. Not sure why they don't offer the 7/16x5/8 fittings, but you could buy the extra xspc black chrome comp fittings from the xspc fittings page, if you don't want barbs.

What I don't know is how the loop runs thru that block - I also don't get why the site shows a 3rd pic as 2 blocks, and lists 7 ports .... isn't that a single gpu block ? at that price ?


----------



## Roikyou

It gives all those plugs and an interesting way to connect two or more cards. I found this one on they're site, just makes me wonder why they didnt offer this one from one of the choices as you check out....

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11105/ex-tub-699/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_BP-RCPF-CC6.html


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> So I finished installing this a few weeks ago, running an i5 2500k at 4.3ghz and a HD7970 OC at 1215/1625mhz on an a Raystorm ex240 w/d5 kit + XSPC 7970 Razor Block. Considering that even at 29c ambient my GPU only goes to 46-50c on 100% bf3 load and cpu is at 53c, it's not bad at all. I was going to add another 120mm rad, but I felt the temps were quite adequate.
> Here are some quickie cell phone pics!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The result really good considering only one 240mm rad for both CPU & GPU.







I got Raystorm ex240 kit 3 days ago but hasn't got a chance put them together yet.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudX*
> 
> Wondering what setting most of the guys with d5's are running at?


If is not mounted and is suspended in the air with tubing, it will be silent at setting 4/5. If it is mounted, the vibrations from the pump make it too loud and you will have to resort to 2/3 for silence.

I set mine at 4, though it is suspended.

Edit: Here is what mine looks like currently:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> So I finished installing this a few weeks ago, running an i5 2500k at 4.3ghz and a HD7970 OC at 1215/1625mhz on an a Raystorm ex240 w/d5 kit + XSPC 7970 Razor Block. Considering that even at 29c ambient my GPU only goes to 46-50c on 100% bf3 load and cpu is at 53c, it's not bad at all. I was going to add another 120mm rad, but I felt the temps were quite adequate.


Those are some nice temps. What kind of fans are you using and are they in push/pull? I'm getting kind of higher temps, but I need to switch from push/exhaust to pull/intake to take advantage of colder air.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Those are some nice temps. What kind of fans are you using and are they in push/pull? I'm getting kind of higher temps, but I need to switch from push/exhaust to pull/intake to take advantage of colder air.


I'm actually using a pair of Scythe GT AP-15's in pull exhaust on my ex240. I would do push/pull but my rad barely clears my mobo heat sink. Though it does look as if i don't really need to do anything else considering my temps in the middle of southern california summer. At least for me, I doubt that i would see any benefit for putting the rad on intake because only my mobo and hdd are dumping any heat into the case with 5 fans on intake. Unless you have some seriously high case temps because something is dumping heat, I doubt the diff for you would be large too.

Although, looking at your case, it looks pretty cramp in there.


----------



## Kokin

The thing is when I play games, I have to put my fans on a higher speed or else my GPU starts to heat up really quick and can't sustain my overclock once I start passing 55~60C. If I do put my GTs at around 1800~2150RPM speeds, I normally don't see past 45~50C, but it is pretty loud. If I go push/pull, I can get slightly better temps with lower fan speeds and it gives me the opportunity to make use of more of my 2150-GTs since I bought 8, but am only currently using 4.

I'm thinking of adding an EX/RX120 in the future once I can get rid of my 3.5" HDDs and move on to a single SSD and 2.5" HDD. By then I can actually make use of all my fans and get great temps at lower-medium fan speeds.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Oh, you keep your GT's at lower speeds. Mine are actually at full tilt 1800~ rpm the whole time on pull. My GPU overclock voltage is at 1.25 when I play demanding games. Considering you're on a 7950, I imagine your voltage is pretty high in order to reach the same clocks as me, which explains why your GPU is running a bit hotter than mine, plus the fan speeds of course. I don't think changing your fan orientation will do anything really, your best bet is probably to add another rad like you planned. Have you looked at the new AX rads by xspc? Supposed to be better than EX and just as good if not better than RX at most fan speeds according to one review.


----------



## Kokin

I'm looking forward to their release. It could determine whether I switch from EX to AX or stick with my plan of adding another 120mm rad. The AX seems a lot more expensive though due to the aluminum unibody frame, so I might just stick with the EX rads.

My 7950 normally runs at 1.36v, so it does run much hotter and I also try to go for max overclocks since Eyefinity can get very demanding.


----------



## CloudX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> If is not mounted and is suspended in the air with tubing, it will be silent at setting 4/5. If it is mounted, the vibrations from the pump make it too loud and you will have to resort to 2/3 for silence.
> I set mine at 4, though it is suspended.
> Edit: Here is what mine looks like currently:
> 
> Those are some nice temps. What kind of fans are you using and are they in push/pull? I'm getting kind of higher temps, but I need to switch from push/exhaust to pull/intake to take advantage of colder air.


Thanks for chiming in, you are correct in saying the vibrations create a ton of sound. I'm going to see what I can do to isolate the res / pump from the case. I've already stuffed cut pieces of foam in the 5.25 bays lol. It's not that the pump is loud because it's not. It's the way it vibrates at certain speeds.


----------



## iandroo888

for some odd reason, my tubes are turning yellow already ? only been like 2 weeks since ive set this up. i have a silver kill coil in the res.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> for some odd reason, my tubes are turning yellow already ? only been like 2 weeks since ive set this up. i have a silver kill coil in the res.


Did you check the pH of the fluid before you put it in?


----------



## iandroo888

fluid? i dont have pH strips. will pick some up from lab. getting a higher quality distilled water too from lab.

so far the only way i can think of draining the loop is disassembling the cpu block. but even when i did that, not all the water came out. id probably have to just like flush it out or disassemble the entire loop to get it all out huh


----------



## Bielijbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> for some odd reason, my tubes are turning yellow already ? only been like 2 weeks since ive set this up. i have a silver kill coil in the res.


That's odd.. I'm assuming you're using clear tubing? I've only used black, so I've never had a problem.

Also, just disassembled after 3 -4 months ~ and there was a decent amount of plasticizer with my Primochill. : (


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> If is not mounted and is suspended in the air with tubing, it will be silent at setting 4/5. If it is mounted, the vibrations from the pump make it too loud and you will have to resort to 2/3 for silence.
> I set mine at 4, though it is suspended.
> Edit: Here is what mine looks like currently:
> 
> Those are some nice temps. What kind of fans are you using and are they in push/pull? I'm getting kind of higher temps, but I need to switch from push/exhaust to pull/intake to take advantage of colder air.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for chiming in, you are correct in saying the vibrations create a ton of sound. I'm going to see what I can do to isolate the res / pump from the case. I've already stuffed cut pieces of foam in the 5.25 bays lol. It's not that the pump is loud because it's not. It's the way it vibrates at certain speeds.
Click to expand...

Have you guys tried velcro?


----------



## CloudX

I'd be open to trying Velcro. I may try and line the inside of the 5.25 bay, particularly where the screw holes are, with some thin rubber sticky tape or even a neat layer or two of 10mil electrical tape. I'm hoping to keep the res / pump firmly attached to my case somehow for when I go LAN it up.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bielijbog*
> 
> That's odd.. I'm assuming you're using clear tubing? I've only used black, so I've never had a problem.
> Also, just disassembled after 3 -4 months ~ and there was a decent amount of plasticizer with my Primochill. : (


yeah kind of weird. yellowing id guess is algae or maybe a bacteria growth. i took apart the block last night and it had some stuff in it but didnt look like plasticizer. yeah using a clear tubing because i want to have a blood red liquid to match my system







im gonna get some pH strips later and some DI water from research lab and use that with dye...

iunoe if i should leave the tubing as is or replace it. kind of want to find out what caused the yellowing tho


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> yeah kind of weird. yellowing id guess is algae or maybe a bacteria growth. i took apart the block last night and it had some stuff in it but didnt look like plasticizer. yeah using a clear tubing because i want to have a blood red liquid to match my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im gonna get some pH strips later and some DI water from research lab and use that with dye...
> iunoe if i should leave the tubing as is or replace it. kind of want to find out what caused the yellowing tho


Everything you need to know about tubing can be found HERE


----------



## combateng

Anybody need 1/2inch ID barbs? i will have 9 straight barbs and one 90 deg barb for sale soon...im getting compression set soon


----------



## iandroo888

are they the xspc G1/4" to 1/2" ID black chrome ones? XD lookin to get 3 XD


----------



## Roikyou

So, let me revise my question, after staring at the D5 variable pump, looks like you unmount it from the bracket and put it on the back of the reservoir. So, should be able to run by its self. Since it looks like a barb connection, do you need an additional clamp to attach the hose to the pump? (i'll probably find this also after surfing some more....


----------



## combateng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> are they the xspc G1/4" to 1/2" ID black chrome ones? XD lookin to get 3 XD


yes they are, im looking to get rid of all of them though for like nothing...maybe $15 + shipping idk...

plus i have to correct myself, i have 11 straight ones and one 90 deg one.


----------



## iandroo888

i dont need so many tho ;_;


----------



## TheBirdman74

So I went through Stren's 2012 CPU Water Block Roundup and it got me thinking.










http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup#post_17813018

Currently the pc my friend and I built has the old RASA Block and a 360 Radiator and the Laing D5 pump, do you guys suggest an upgrade, as in a different block? I had my eyes on the alphacool nexus xp3 or the xspcr aystorm? other then being sexy, does the raystorm full copper offer any substantial difference in temps over the regular one?? I see the Alphacool nexus xp3 performs 4~6C better then the older raystorm. so got me thinking which block should we chose if we wanted to "upgrade" the current one.

thanks


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> So I went through Stren's 2012 CPU Water Block Roundup and it got me thinking.
> Currently the pc my friend and I built has the old RASA Block and a 360 Radiator and the Laing D5 pump, do you guys suggest an upgrade, as in a different block? I had my eyes on the alphacool nexus xp3 or the xspcr aystorm? other then being sexy, does the raystorm full copper offer any substantial difference in temps over the regular one?? I see the Alphacool nexus xp3 performs 4~6C better then the older raystorm. so got me thinking which block should we chose if we wanted to "upgrade" the current one.
> thanks


unless you are bothered by your current temps I wouldn't worry









but any of the top 5 there is only 0.36 difference, and even down to the EK supremacy is only 1 so you problably wouldn't even register the difference in that from the Alphacool nexus xp3 so take your pick


----------



## pbi76

Hi everyone:

I hope this is the right place to post this given that my watercooling system started out as an XSPC kit but I have added stuff to it over time. It is still predominantly XSPC.

Anyway, I am having temperature issues with my system. My CPU is a 2600k clocked at 4.5ghz using 1.3v but power saving features are active at idle. CPU waterblock is a Raystorm. My GPU is a reference 680GTX and the block is from EK. Pump is a D5 at max setting and it is installed in a XSPC reservoir and my radiators are a RX480 and RX240. Fans are Slipstreams in a pull configuration. The loop order is as follows:

Reservoir/Pump ->RX240->GPU->RX480->CPU->back to Reservoir/Pump

My GPU idles at around 32 degrees and maxes out at about 46 degrees under Unigine. The CPU is the problem. It idles at 41 degrees and hits almost 65-70 under Prime95. I have re-seated the block a number of times and primarily use Gelid Extreme for TIM. I have also checked to make sure that the inlet/outlet ports of the Raystorm are in the correct order.

What do you guys think? My CPU temperatures seem quite high I think but I don't know how to reduce it. Since my GPU is doing okay, could it be that my Raystorm is defective?


----------



## Ardalista

Did you remove the protective cover from the raystorm block before you installed it?


----------



## pbi76

Yes I removed the plastic cover.

I got some advise from other forums and it looks like my ambient temps are the problem which are in the low to mid-30s. I'm just puzzled as to why my GPU is running so cool at idle relative to the CPU at idle.


----------



## socketus

how about switching the flow - make the cpu to be hit first from the pump, or a rad.


----------



## pbi76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> how about switching the flow - make the cpu to be hit first from the pump, or a rad.


I started out with a CPU-only loop. After inserting the GPU, there was no change in the CPU temperatures. I also read somewhere that loop order doesn't matter much as the system will just stabilize after some time. I don't know if that's an absolute truth though.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> how about switching the flow - make the cpu to be hit first from the pump, or a rad.


^this and remove the 240 rad. see if it helps. so, it will be res/pump>cpu>gpu>480>back to res/pump.


----------



## iandroo888

whats a better config?

res/pump => rs360 => cpu => res/pump?

or

res/pump => cpu => rs360 => res/pump?

and where is best spot to put a t-line for drain plug?

for the most part, the tubing is about the same level.. from rs360 (highest) to res/pump (lowest) is like a 3-4" difference


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> whats a better config?
> res/pump => rs360 => cpu => res/pump?
> or
> res/pump => cpu => rs360 => res/pump?
> and where is best spot to put a t-line for drain plug?
> for the most part, the tubing is about the same level.. from rs360 (highest) to res/pump (lowest) is like a 3-4" difference


Res before pump, the rest doesn't matter.

Place the T-line/drain plug at the lowest spot in the loop you can manage always. Even if the lowest spot you can manage is 1/2 an inch lower than the rest, place it there


----------



## iandroo888

res has pump inside. so cant change that lol


----------



## Thernen

Does anyone know if the XSPC RX360 RAD will fit in the top of the Cosmos II case?


----------



## Ardalista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thernen*
> 
> Does anyone know if the XSPC RX360 RAD will fit in the top of the Cosmos II case?


No it's too thick, you will be safe with a rad under 45 mm though


----------



## Kokin

Meaning AX series


----------



## JayKaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> whats a better config?
> res/pump => rs360 => cpu => res/pump?
> or
> res/pump => cpu => rs360 => res/pump?
> and where is best spot to put a t-line for drain plug?
> for the most part, the tubing is about the same level.. from rs360 (highest) to res/pump (lowest) is like a 3-4" difference


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Res before pump, the rest doesn't matter.
> Place the T-line/drain plug at the lowest spot in the loop you can manage always. Even if the lowest spot you can manage is 1/2 an inch lower than the rest, place it there


Id go rez pump CPU > rad > rez it means the water in the rez stays cooler and therefor the pump run's cooler









My setup is Rez > Pump > CPU > EX120 Rad > EK-FCHD7970 GPU Block > EK-FCHD7970 GPU Block > EX360 RAD > Rez

May Change the EX120 RAD as I have a RX240 Doing nothing ATM


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKaos*
> 
> May Change the EX120 RAD as I have a RX240 Doing nothing ATM


If you don't need the EX120, I may be interested.









For me, it's Res/pump (D5 pump top/res) => EX240 => XSPC Raystorm => EK FC7950 block => Res. I'm limited in space though.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKaos*
> 
> Id go rez pump CPU > rad > rez it means the water in the rez stays cooler and therefor the pump run's cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My setup is Rez > Pump > CPU > EX120 Rad > EK-FCHD7970 GPU Block > EK-FCHD7970 GPU Block > EX360 RAD > Rez
> May Change the EX120 RAD as I have a RX240 Doing nothing ATM


im gonna switch it up when i get new tubing. good reasoning. thanks ! hope the duralene wont get cloudy like the stock tubing did


----------



## captvizcenzo

I have a XSPC Dual Bay Dual DDC res.

Should I fill the other tank with distilled water? Or should I just leave it empty?

The pump is already attached. Right now I only need one loop of water cooling. Before I get my gc, the other res/pump won't be used.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> I have a XSPC Dual Bay Dual DDC res.
> Should I fill the other tank with distilled water? Or should I just leave it empty?
> The pump is already attached. Right now I only need one loop of water cooling. Before I get my gc, the other res/pump won't be used.


My suggestion would be leave it empty.

Everything needs moisture to live, so by having no water there is a extremely low chance of anything growing in there in the mean time.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> My suggestion would be leave it empty.
> Everything needs moisture to live, so by having no water there is a extremely low chance of anything growing in there in the mean time.


Having no water inside won't make it cracks, will it?


----------



## JayKaos

Decided to give the loop a clean, de-dust the rad's and swap one out, BTW the wires where not left like they are in the pic I still had cabiling to finsish (good old zip ties)
Took my rear RS120 Rad off and replaced it with my XSPC EX240 rad and changed the piping a bit

opp's seams to be a GPU missing from the old pic: found it








old inside









REAR:









Inside:


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Having no water inside won't make it cracks, will it?


Can not imagine how, they sit empty in packaging and on shelf for months.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Can not imagine how, they sit empty in packaging and on shelf for months.


That makes sense


----------



## Creator

Are my temperatures normal? I only have a 2700K CPU (Raystorm block) connected to a RX 360, pump speed of 3 (running max doesn't improve the temperatures). The fans connected to the radiator run at maybe 1200rpm. My idle are anywhere from 25-35C depending on the core number and ambient temperature. My load temperature is around 68-70C average (something like 65-72-70-68 for core temperatures), at 4.8ghz and 1.4v to the CPU. My ambient temperatures fluctuate from 70-80F.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Creator*
> 
> Are my temperatures normal? I only have a 2700K CPU (Raystorm block) connected to a RX 360, pump speed of 3 (running max doesn't improve the temperatures). The fans connected to the radiator run at maybe 1200rpm. My idle are anywhere from 25-35C depending on the core number and ambient temperature. My load temperature is around 68-70C average (something like 65-72-70-68 for core temperatures), at 4.8ghz and 1.4v to the CPU. My ambient temperatures fluctuate from 70-80F.


Looks a bit high, check your TIM and block mount.


----------



## CloudX

Not high if his ambient reaches 80F. 1.4v and 72c on highest core isn't too bad.


----------



## JayKaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Creator*
> 
> Are my temperatures normal? I only have a 2700K CPU (Raystorm block) connected to a RX 360, pump speed of 3 (running max doesn't improve the temperatures). The fans connected to the radiator run at maybe 1200rpm. My idle are anywhere from 25-35C depending on the core number and ambient temperature. My load temperature is around 68-70C average (something like 65-72-70-68 for core temperatures), at 4.8ghz and 1.4v to the CPU. My ambient temperatures fluctuate from 70-80F.


look's a little high imo I get 59c full load at 25c 77F ambient i7 2600K @ 4.6G on the older RASA water block, XSPC RS360/EX240 and GPU block's helping to warm things up, fans @ 1100RPM


----------



## ChristianUshuaia

Hi there I don't know if it is correct to post here but since I'll be buying the XSPC Raystorm 360-Ultra Kit, please let me try. I already Have a Swiftech Kit H2O-220 For the CPU only, but I went crossfiring and I want to cool my Gpus without having to buy an aditional RAD/s that may restrict my Swiftech Kit and get the temps a little up. SO!.... this is why I'll be buying the XSPC Kit just to cool down my GPUs. I think it would be a SuperB Idea. This is What I'm planing:



Any suggestions?. Don't say "don't buy kits", "a custom loop is better", I want to know what do you think, I already have the swiftech and already ordered the XSPC Kit. (I don't mind spending my money). Aditional stuff: have some fittings, tubing, gpu full blocks, and energy drink so don't worry about that.

CPU AMD Phenom II x6 1100T 4.0GHz

AMD RADEON HD7970 x2 1125MHz / 1575MHz

PSU Thermaltake 1200w

Case Thermaltake Level 10 GT (Yes I figured Out how to mod this Tetris Block to fit the 360 Rad on the Top, no worries)

Thank You all for your WC Help and knowledge!.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChristianUshuaia*
> 
> Hi there I don't know if it is correct to post here but since I'll be buying the XSPC Raystorm 360-Ultra Kit, please let me try. I already Have a Swiftech Kit H2O-220 For the CPU only, but I went crossfiring and I want to cool my Gpus without having to buy an aditional RAD/s that may restrict my Swiftech Kit and get the temps a little up. SO!.... this is why I'll be buying the XSPC Kit just to cool down my GPUs. I think it would be a SuperB Idea. This is What I'm planing:
> 
> Any suggestions?. Don't say "don't buy kits", "a custom loop is better", I want to know what do you think, I already have the swiftech and already ordered the XSPC Kit. (I don't mind spending my money). Aditional stuff: have some fittings, tubing, gpu full blocks, and energy drink so don't worry about that.
> CPU AMD Phenom II x6 1100T 4.0GHz
> AMD RADEON HD7970 x2 1125MHz / 1575MHz
> PSU Thermaltake 1200w
> Case Thermaltake Level 10 GT (Yes I figured Out how to mod this Tetris Block to fit the 360 Rad on the Top, no worries)
> Thank You all for your WC Help and knowledge!.


You look good.

My only suggestion would be, run the pumps in series and run it as one circuit.

That swiftech pump is a fantastic pump, matter of fact you could the entire loop of that one pump.


----------



## ChristianUshuaia

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*





You look good.
My only suggestion would be, run the pumps in series and run it as one circuit.
That swiftech pump is a fantastic pump, matter of fact you could the entire loop of that one pump.

So you think Ill be ok with just 1 pump, I think temps will be higher though. So full redundancy on with the two pumps, how to do that? I've seen this but how to route the tubes then:


----------



## ginger_nuts

You could run it from the one swiftech pump.

In my sig is a link to "What Can My Pump Handle" very handy.

But run it with both pumps I would do the following circuit:

Swiftech Rad/pump > GPU-1 > GPU-2 > XSPC 360 rad. > XSPC Laing D5 > CPU > Swiftech Rad/Pump.










Just googled where your from, you must get some nasty and cold weather.


----------



## ChristianUshuaia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> You could run it from the one swiftech pump.
> In my sig is a link to "What Can My Pump Handle" very handy.
> But run it with both pumps I would do the following circuit:
> Swiftech Rad/pump > GPU-1 > GPU-2 > XSPC 360 rad. > XSPC Laing D5 > CPU > Swiftech Rad/Pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just googled where your from, you must get some nasty and cold weather.


Well this was really a good judgement. I'll try it that way. Thank you for your help. +REP


----------



## ChristianUshuaia

The only thing its that the Swiftech has a PWM controlled pump and in my motherboard there are only one connector (the CPU]) with PWM. While the other xspc pump will run on a static voltage, Would be that a problem?. I mean running the loop in series may need that both pumps work on the same rpms/voltages, right?.-


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChristianUshuaia*
> 
> The only thing its that the Swiftech has a PWM controlled pump and in my motherboard there are only one connector (the CPU]) with PWM. While the other xspc pump will run on a static voltage, Would be that a problem?. I mean running the loop in series may need that both pumps work on the same rpms/voltages, right?.-


No, pumps *can* run on different volts.








When running pumps in series, you treat them as one combined pump.

If running pumps paralleled then you want them running at the same speed.

Ultimately when doing your loop it does not matter which order you put things in, since your pumps are combined with the res's.

Just try to minimize the tubing length as much as possible.

Glad to be of help


----------



## ketapang

Hi guys. Currently im using NH-D14, keeping my 3570k 93c on highest core. Would RS240 give a significant drop on the temperatures?


----------



## rusky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ketapang*
> 
> Hi guys. Currently im using NH-D14, keeping my 3570k 93c on highest core. Would RS240 give a significant drop on the temperatures?


Would need more information like ambient temp, current cpu clock, and voltage. 93C on a core is EXTREMELY hot, 7 more degrees and you'd be boiling water. I would do your best to keep it below 70C.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ketapang*
> 
> Hi guys. Currently im using NH-D14, keeping my 3570k 93c on highest core. Would RS240 give a significant drop on the temperatures?


i doubt it. the issue is the transfer of heat between the die and the ihs, which makes contact with the heatsink. it is not really an issue because ivy can handle more heat. for best results . . .

http://www.overclock.net/t/1309867/short-and-direct-delid-guide-ivy-bridge

recently formed . . .

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/delidded-ivy-bridge-club


----------



## zeeton

Add me please. More photos later on in build. So far no leaks great overclock (see sig)


----------



## ketapang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Would need more information like ambient temp, current cpu clock, and voltage. 93C on a core is EXTREMELY hot, 7 more degrees and you'd be boiling water. I would do your best to keep it below 70C.


Curent clock; 4.5Ghz
Vcore: 1.29v
Ambient: Maybe around 25-26c?

My aim would be keeping my proc below 85c on 4.5Ghz & hoping to push more on the clock speed (maybe 4.6~4.7Ghz). I already asked in IB thread, they already confirm that the temperature is fine. But i still doesnt feel safe running with such high temperature 24/7.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> i doubt it. the issue is the transfer of heat between the die and the ihs, which makes contact with the heatsink. it is not really an issue because ivy can handle more heat. for best results . . .
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1309867/short-and-direct-delid-guide-ivy-bridge
> recently formed . . .
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/delidded-ivy-bridge-club


I've read about this. Too bad im short of cash right now, so deliding is not my option cos its too risky & im still an amateur.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Would need more information like ambient temp, current cpu clock, and voltage. 93C on a core is EXTREMELY hot, 7 more degrees and you'd be boiling water. I would do your best to keep it below 70C.


93C is high but NOT extremely hot. Ivy can handle that kind of heat just fine. i5-3570K TJmax is 105C which is when throttling activated. It's not the max temperature the processor can take, it basically just a trip point when CPU throttling.

@ketapang,
These are several Ivy + watercooling setups which also experiencing high temp even with watercooling (but they have 3770K & overclocked pretty high, 4.8GHz):-
http://www.overclock.net/t/1132180/official-xspc-raystorm-club/320#post_18295812
http://www.overclock.net/t/1132180/official-xspc-raystorm-club/320#post_18295855

You're looking at more than 240mm rad to cool down the core temperature. More radiator surfaces are better. You might want 240mm + 240mm rads or 240mm + 360mm rads or 360mm + 360mm rads. Get better radiator like EX or RX series radiators & raystorm water block. Watercooling is expensive but worth it especially if your CPU always under load.


----------



## Blacksetter

I just received an EX 240 kit with the D5 pump and dual bay reservoir. Everything seems very high quality, but there are some difficulties.

For one, the back plate for socket 1155 needed to be relieved in one area to clear components on an MSi Z77 MPower board. Not a big problem, but when I try to apply the Raystorm waterblock, it seems as it the mounting rods are too short. The block has to be tilted to even start the threads into the backplate. This is just not correct. The screws should be able to be bottomed out in the backplate while the block remains flat on the cpu. Then pressure can be applied with the secondary nuts to apply pressure to the springs. I've seen other people's plexi block mounts bent from the pressure, so I ordered the aluminum clamp flange for the block.
No way will this block sit flat on the processor for mounting. Am I doing something wrong... or what gives?


----------



## Roikyou

I just installed the same cpu block and motherboard, seem to sit flat and mount with no issues. Been running fine (no heat issues but will check again when I get home) but I installed the cpu block while the board was in the case, was confident it was mounted properly but just secured it and called it good. Curious what shows that it's not mounting properly? Are there only one set of mounting screws? (trying to remember as I'm at work). I just remember the mounting screws, springs and washers, connect one side at a time, going back and forth across the cpu block until all sides are tight.


----------



## Blacksetter

I cannot even get the hold down screws started into the backplate if the waterblock is sitting flat on the processor. The block has to tip a bit to get the screws started. To my way of thinking, the screws should bottom into the back plate before any pressure is applied, and then the secondary nuts screwed down to apply pressure.

I haven't applied thermal paste yet. I wanted to set up the loop, then remove the mobo to test the loop. Then apply the past and mount the block to the cpu in the case. No way would I be able to do that and keep the waterblock flat on the processor until everything is screwed down.


----------



## Roikyou

It does take a little bit of pressure but not much, the springs (pushing down on the washers) are what holds the block securely to the chip. I got one screw in first, went to the opposite side, attached that one, then proceeded around the other sides. It is kind of difficult to hold it steady to not smear paste and get it secure.


----------



## Blacksetter

Yes, that sounds like what i had to do. Another quarter inch on the length of the screws would have made things soooooo much easier!

Thanks for the reply.

BTW, did you relieve your backplate? Mine was sitting on those components instead of the board.


----------



## Roikyou

no, I went ahead and put the back plate directly over the motherboard. Those back plates usually have some kind of non conductive coating on them to stop them from arching, shouldnt be an issue if the two plates (on the motherboard and on the backplate) are touching. The plate in the motherboards sits a little high as it goes in the sockets and stands off (the four screw mount holes) the motherboard.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Lovely, Just ordered a RX120 to go with my RX240 and RX360 rads! If only I had room in this Switch to put an RX480 and I'd have them all lol


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> @ketapang,
> These are several Ivy + watercooling setups which also experiencing high temp even with watercooling (but they have 3770K & overclocked pretty high, 4.8GHz):-
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1132180/official-xspc-raystorm-club/320#post_18295812
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1132180/official-xspc-raystorm-club/320#post_18295855
> You're looking at more than 240mm rad to cool down the core temperature. More radiator surfaces are better. You might want 240mm + 240mm rads or 240mm + 360mm rads or 360mm + 360mm rads. Get better radiator like EX or RX series radiators & raystorm water block. Watercooling is expensive but worth it especially if your CPU always under load.


Couldn't disagree with this more. Having multiple rads just for a single component won't net much better temps once you're past a single 240mm rad. The only benefit of multiple rads is to have all your fans at a "barely moving" speed.

I'm using a single EX240 to cool my 3570K at 4.7ghz and an overclocked 7950. I previously used a single RX240 for the same components and it was about the same cooling performance, but at lower fan speeds. Even when I was using a 5ghz 2550K with 2x 5870s, I only had to use a Thermochill PA120.3 (very similar to a RX360). I know this is OCN, where overkill is the way to go, but budget is often the better priority when recommending stuff.

In case you're wondering on my temps with a single EX240, my CPU idle is about 28~32C, CPU gaming load 60~70C, max Prime95 load 75~85C depending on regular Prime95 or with Prime95 with AVX instructions. My GPU idle is about 35C and load is around 42~45C (stock voltage) 47~50C (max overclock/higher than safe voltage).


----------



## alawadhi3000

The replacement X2O 750 pump died after 16 months of 24/7 use, what do you guys recommend for a Pump/Res combo without breaking the bank??


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alawadhi3000*
> 
> The replacement X2O 750 pump died after 16 months of 24/7 use, what do you guys recommend for a Pump/Res combo without breaking the bank??


The D5 Dual Bay Reservoir/Pump Combo is a sure measure of being great. Or for redundancy go the Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir/Pump Combo .


----------



## Rakin

Okay guys, I finally recieved my kit, but it didn't ship with any Kill Coil, I'm using distilled water, will there be any issue if I don't get a kill coil?


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Okay guys, I finally recieved my kit, but it didn't ship with any Kill Coil, I'm using distilled water, will there be any issue if I don't get a kill coil?


if it should have come with one, then call the company/retailer and they should ship you one.

running without kilcoil for a few days should be ok.

edit: here is cheap alternative . . .

http://www.petrastechshop.com/peptpcobi1.html


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> if it should have come with one, then call the company/retailer and they should ship you one.
> running without kilcoil for a few days should be ok.
> edit: here is cheap alternative . . .
> http://www.petrastechshop.com/peptpcobi1.html


That would take ages, and more hassle then gain. I'd rather buy a new one.
Yeah, I'll get a bottle of PT Nuke I suppose.


----------



## s1rrah

Going to get the EX240 Raystorm kit ... everything looks fairly self explanatory in so far as setting the thing up ... but I have a couple questions regarding the order page at Frozen CPU (where I'm purchasing).

Any comments would be appreciated:

#1: Is the default tubing size of 7/16 x 5/8 okay? Reason I ask is that other sites, like Sidewinder, offer different tubing sizes. ??

#2: There's a variety of coolants available on the order page ... is one better than the other or should I stick with simple, plain distilled water?

...

Kit's going in to a Corsair 600T case and will be replacing an H100 closed loop kit. I'm only cooling the CPU for the moment as the GPU is fine for the time being. My 2700K @ 5ghz/1.46v is hitting 77 to 80C on Prime 95 with the H100 ... so hopefully the EX240 will keep it a good bit cooler.

Thanks for any input.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1rrah*
> 
> Going to get the EX240 Raystorm kit ... everything looks fairly self explanatory in so far as setting the thing up ... but I have a couple questions regarding the order page at Frozen CPU (where I'm purchasing).
> Any comments would be appreciated:
> #1: Is the default tubing size of 7/16 x 5/8 okay? Reason I ask is that other sites, like Sidewinder, offer different tubing sizes. ??
> #2: There's a variety of coolants available on the order page ... is one better than the other or should I stick with simple, plain distilled water?
> ...
> Kit's going in to a Corsair 600T case and will be replacing an H100 closed loop kit. I'm only cooling the CPU for the moment as the GPU is fine for the time being. My 2700K @ 5ghz/1.46v is hitting 77 to 80C on Prime 95 with the H100 ... so hopefully the EX240 will keep it a good bit cooler.
> Thanks for any input.


The tube sizing is fine, there is very little difference for performance when it comes to sizing. The standard size is OK for making bends as well, it is not the best, but also not the worst. Some people say that the stock tubing cloud's quickly, but others say it is as good as any others, personally I have never used the XSPC clear tubing.

As for the coolant I would either use the XSPC EC6 stuff or use Mayhems coolant. Plain distilled water using a kill coil, or bio-cide, is fine as well. Depends what look your after!!!


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The tube sizing is fine, there is very little difference for performance when it comes to sizing. The standard size is OK for making bends as well, it is not the best, but also not the worst. Some people say that the stock tubing cloud's quickly, but others say it is as good as any others, personally I have never used the XSPC clear tubing.
> As for the coolant I would either use the XSPC EC6 stuff or use Mayhems coolant. Plain distilled water using a kill coil, or bio-cide, is fine as well. Depends what look your after!!!


Thanks. That's what I needed to know. I'm going to get black tubing so clouding doesn't matter to me.

Thanks again..
joel


----------



## Rakin

Are 50-52C temps okay for a 2500k at 4.5GHz? I've got a XSPC Raystorm RS240 kit.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Are 50-52C temps okay for a 2500k at 4.5GHz? I've got a XSPC Raystorm RS240 kit.


If that is your load temp then I would say yes. Definitely. In fact, you've got plenty room to up the volts a bit and push for 5.0ghz, easy.

To put it in to perspective: I'm running a 2700K [email protected] 5.0ghz and my load temps hit 75C to nearly 80C on occasion during lengthy Prime95 blend tests...and I'm not stressed a bit about that. I'm using a H100 but am about to upgrade to the EX240 Raystorm kit ... and so I expect to chop about 7C to 10C off that load temp. But even so, I'm not breaking my chip or anything by loading at 75C...

So yeah...you've got plenty of room to party.

;-)


----------



## Rakin

I scratched the base on my Raystorm while mounting it, will it cause any issues? Its not deep at all. Infact I can't feel it with my hand but it can be seen. Or should I lap it just in case?
Oh and temps are now about 60C at load, I reseated the block and it seems I've a bad mount.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> I scratched the base on my Raystorm while mounting it, will it cause any issues? Its not deep at all. Infact I can't feel it with my hand but it can be seen. Or should I lap it just in case?
> Oh and temps are now about 60C at load, I reseated the block and it seems I've a bad mount.


If it is just a small scratch I would say it will be fine.

But if it is a lengthy scratch I would lap it.

Can you feel it with the back of your finger nail? I would personally probably just get some of the finest "Wet N Dry" I could find and give it a very light rub back.

Hell just lap it and the chip for the hell of it. Doing that you should see at least 2-5 degrees Celsius of the loaded temps, if not more.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If it is just a small scratch I would say it will be fine.
> But if it is a lengthy scratch I would lap it.
> Can you feel it with the back of your finger nail? I would personally probably just get some of the finest "Wet N Dry" I could find and give it a very light rub back.
> Hell just lap it and the chip for the hell of it. Doing that you should see at least 2-5 degrees Celsius of the loaded temps, if not more.


I won't be lapping the chip as I want to keep the option of selling it. Here in BD nobody values a lapped CPU. I can lap the WB though.
Here take a look. It can't be felt with the back of my finger nails nor my finger tip.


----------



## Rakin

Though, I remounted the block, and now the temps are ~51-52C on each core at full load. But I still want to lap the WB and get rid of the scratches, would I see any temp difference?


----------



## ginger_nuts

If you can't feel the scratch I would think you may only see a slight improvement.

But your temps seem pretty good for being at load.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If you can't feel the scratch I would think you may only see a slight improvement.
> But your temps seem pretty good for being at load.


Since I'm goning to get an Corsair 800D/Switch 810 after 29th, I should probably wait for that and then when I drain the loop, I'll have a go with the finest sand paper. Anyway, heres a snap.


----------



## Garming

I have an offer for me to buy a complete, used, RX240 kit but with Rasa cpu block for $120. Should I bite on one this or counter offer?


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*


Any idea if vinegar would remove those marks?


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> I have an offer for me to buy a complete, used, RX240 kit but with Rasa cpu block for $120. Should I bite on one this or counter offer?


Seems a bit high.


----------



## Garming

What would be a good price?


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> What would be a good price?


If that includes shipping, I wouldn't say its a bad price. RX240 is worth probably $50 used all day, the CPU block probably $30-35 used, pump/res another $30-40, so that's around $110-125 depending on the condition.

Maybe counter with $110 if you can't afford the $120.


----------



## Faithh

Does the Rasa rx360 fit in a push pull configuration in a nzxt switch 810 with an Asus P8z68-v pro gen3?


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> What would be a good price?


Sorry, I mis-read the post. I thought it was an RS240 not RX. Anyway, if its an RX, its a good price.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Does the Rasa rx360 fit in a push pull configuration in a nzxt switch 810 with an Asus P8z68-v pro gen3?


Sure does. At the most, you might have to trim some rear fan shroud near the 8 pin plug for its connecting cable set. Not sure why you'd be using the Rasa version unless its a used set - the raystorm is the newer and preferred cpu block. The RX360 rad is the same size and build either way.


----------



## Garming

Would it be smarter if I went with this option: MCP655 plus reservoir for 70, then buy rad, cpu block, and tube?


----------



## Rakin

Obviously the MPC655 is a better pump than the XSPC 750.


----------



## speedysteve007

Okay fellows, I have a question for you all. Im about to drop some money into water cooling, i have an idea what i want.. But i would like to see what your recommendations would be. I want to water cool my i7-3770k and my xfx 7970, Piled into a COOLER MASTER Storm Stryker. Also i plan on grabbing another 7970 in a month or so..

So, kit or custom loop?


----------



## Rakin

What Vinegar did you guys use to flush your rads? I didn't flush my Rad at all, and gonna flush in a week, is White Kitchen Vinegar fine?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedysteve007*
> 
> Okay fellows, I have a question for you all. Im about to drop some money into water cooling, i have an idea what i want.. But i would like to see what your recommendations would be. I want to water cool my i7-3770k and my xfx 7970, Piled into a COOLER MASTER Storm Stryker. Also i plan on grabbing another 7970 in a month or so..
> So, kit or custom loop?


If you are loyal,do a custom kit. The XSPC razor blocks are great, couple this with eith a single or double D5 res. and at least 480mm of rad. (2*240, 1*480 etc etc.) and it would be sweet.

Or

Mix n match brands to find the best of the best, it will probably cost more, but give you better performance. Oh and take probably 3 times longer to choose your parts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> What Vinegar did you guys use to flush your rads? I didn't flush my Rad at all, and gonna flush in a week, is White Kitchen Vinegar fine?


I have heard many say to use cleaning vinegar diluted to clean loops. But I think the safest way is to use either Di water or tap water to flush and clean loops. Vinegar is a acid which may react with parts of the loop, things like the tubing and plated parts are the most likely to be effected.


----------



## Zackotsu

Good Day!

I'm new to water cooling and i'm planning to get the XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 from frozencpu around $150 the starter kit only or either the H100 close loop. I just got my MSI Z77 Mpower from tiger direct the other day and installed it earlier. My D-14 is covering everything lol.

I know H100 is maintenance free in all compared to the raystorm kit. My question is..Is it really advisable to do maintenance twice a year? Or is it ok if you just leave it as long as it has no leaks maybe let say more than a year or so?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zackotsu*
> 
> Good Day!
> I'm new to water cooling and i'm planning to get the XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 from frozencpu around $150 the starter kit only or either the H100 close loop. I just got my MSI Z77 Mpower from tiger direct the other day and installed it earlier. My D-14 is covering everything lol.
> I know H100 is maintenance free in all compared to the raystorm kit. My question is..Is it really advisable to do maintenance twice a year? Or is it ok if you just leave it as long as it has no leaks maybe let say more than a year or so?


If you use something like Mayhems Pastel range it can last up to 3 years in the system. Preparation is the key to keeping a system going a long time with no issues.


----------



## Zackotsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If you use something like Mayhems Pastel range it can last up to 3 years in the system. Preparation is the key to keeping a system going a long time with no issues.


thanks for the reply..i'm not sure if i'll be using coolant at the moment..probably go with distilled water + biocide..but i'll keep that in mind..thanks..


----------



## ginger_nuts

Mayhems X1 Clear I am pretty sure can stay in a system upto 1 year, it has biocides and anti-corrosion properties in it.

Being clear it will also not stain.

I would suggest going the H100, it is simple, easy, maintenance free and half good at what it does.

*BUT* if you are like many of us, once the water bug bytes it bytes hard









Oh!!! and when that bug bytes, you will for ever be poor


----------



## Zackotsu

ahahahaha..thanks for the heads up..









my gut is telling me







go for raystorm with distilled water + biocide combo..


----------



## socketus

Here's a CM690 build log to die for - mite pick up some ideas/inspiration

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=221316


----------



## gboeds

OK, so ever since adding a second GTX480 to my loop, my 360 rad is not keeping up with the heat. This is not a surprise, I was expecting it, but just waiting on the purse strings to be let up a little before adding another rad. So now new rad is on the way....is there any benefits/drawbacks to where I put it in the flow?

I am currently CPU>GPU>RAD>PUMP/RES>CPU

Is there any difference between putting the second RAD between the CPU and 1st GPU, or between 2nd GPU and existing RAD? Or should I just go with what looks best?

Thanks


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gboeds*
> 
> OK, so ever since adding a second GTX480 to my loop, my 360 rad is not keeping up with the heat. This is not a surprise, I was expecting it, but just waiting on the purse strings to be let up a little before adding another rad. So now new rad is on the way....is there any benefits/drawbacks to where I put it in the flow?
> I am currently CPU>GPU>RAD>PUMP/RES>CPU
> Is there any difference between putting the second RAD between the CPU and 1st GPU, or between 2nd GPU and existing RAD? Or should I just go with what looks best?
> Thanks


Makes no difference where in the loop it goes.

So yes put it in the best place to make it look good, and keep the tubing to minimal.


----------



## Kokin

As mentioned, it is best to go for the shortest/cleanest route.

Were you to get GPUs that didn't output as much wattage as the GTX 480s, you would have been okay with your RS360, but your 1366 i7 + dual 480s would require a double thick-triple rad at minimum.


----------



## CloudX

beastmode!









72F-75F ambient, folding for a couple days. Room temp was hitting 80F+ a few days ago, it was warm for October!


----------



## iandroo888

my system after a tubing upgrade (duralene) and adding a t-line for drain.

any idea how to get loop less acidic? its messing with my mayhem dye ><

temps seem good. lows at low 40s.. high at low 60s


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my system after a tubing upgrade (duralene) and adding a t-line for drain.
> any idea how to get loop less acidic? its messing with my mayhem dye ><
> temps seem good. lows at low 40s.. high at low 60s


Looking good









I believe Bi-Carb soda is a neutralizing agent.

Have you tried flushing the entire loop using the garden hose? Running it through the loop for a minute or two should be enough to get rid of any debris or water down anything creating the acidity.

This is just what I have gotten from Mayhems, to help setup for the use of their Pastel coolant range, which is also PH sensitive.


----------



## iandroo888

think about my loop as u can see if i cant take out the entire loop assembled. tubing goes thru case outside to the radiator


----------



## ginger_nuts

Could you possibly disconnect at the T, connect hose to the T piece, and run your tubing out of the case, using plastic bags or the like to cover over things?

or

Disconnect at the rad., connect garden hose to the rad. and hang your tubing out the side? This would probably be my preferred method.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> my system after a tubing upgrade (duralene) and adding a t-line for drain.
> any idea how to get loop less acidic? its messing with my mayhem dye ><
> temps seem good. lows at low 40s.. high at low 60s


Not sure why you feel it is acidic. Are you Ph testing with litmus? If it is acidic, then add something alkaline until neutral? A chemist should know what would work.

My current rig.


----------



## The_ocho

Hey guys, it's been a long time since I'v posted in this thread. I'm planning on picking up my second video card here pretty soon and was wondering who runs multiple cards off the rasa kit and do you run parallel or series and how does it do. I have a rs360 kit and run my 965BE and 5850 with a EK block off of it now with awesome results. Is the pump going to be able to handle the how is the second 5850 with the same EK block. I'm not too worried about the RAD being able to handle it. I think I am getting to the point where I should be looking into another pump and Res haha.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_ocho*
> 
> Hey guys, it's been a long time since I'v posted in this thread. I'm planning on picking up my second video card here pretty soon and was wondering who runs multiple cards off the rasa kit and do you run parallel or series and how does it do. I have a rs360 kit and run my 965BE and 5850 with a EK block off of it now with awesome results. Is the pump going to be able to handle the how is the second 5850 with the same EK block. I'm not too worried about the RAD being able to handle it. I think I am getting to the point where I should be looking into another pump and Res haha.


Okay this is just my personal opinion if I was about to do what you're planning!

I would probably want to grab a better pump/res mainly for a stronger pump that could move a bit more water, but I'd also be thinking about taking a step up on my Rad as well. The AMD/ATI 5000 series cards did put out a fair amount of heat and the addition of a second one might add enough to cause the temps to go higher than expected. If nothing else I'd be looking at the RX360 for the added surface area it would offer to give it a better chance to release the heat from the loop. Now like I said this is just what would be going through my head if I was considering what you are, you may add the second card and it would have very little impact on your temps or they might go up more than you want them to. I will finish off by saying that most pics of rigs I've seen that have more than 1 graphics card in the loop are running at least and RX360 or it's equivalent, always a 60 or 80mm think Rad. I hope this helps


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Not sure why you feel it is acidic. Are you Ph testing with litmus? If it is acidic, then add something alkaline until neutral? A chemist should know what would work.


according to mayhems, the dye changes color due to acidity to point where the dye disappears. for some odd reason, the litmus has ran away from lab. i cant find any D: time to order more lol.

chemist would know but a w/c'er would know what would be good or not good for the blocks, etc


----------



## WeirdHarold

Okay so I'm thinking of using this Pump/Res for a second loop and was wondering if anyone has used it?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7272/ex-pmp-63/XSPC_Laing_DDC_Reservoir_Pump_Attachment_w_MCP-350355_No_Fittings.html?tl=g30c107s152

I would most likely get it with MCP355 pump but I'm more interested in the Res has anyone used it and if so how did it look and perform for you?

Thank in advance for the help and advice


----------



## Kyouki

I am about to watercool my set up with a custom loop. I currently use a H100 and it works fine, but I am going to move it to my second rig (my girls) and re do mine with custom parts. I am only doing my CPU as of right now because I love the GTX690 cover and hate to see it go, and my temps stay low on it as it is. So as of right now this is what is in my cart.



My biggest question is, how do you guys feel that the XSPC X2O DC-750 - Dual 5.25" Bay-Res Pump/Reservoir Combo - V4 performance? And what is the biggest difference or why would it be better to get a cylinder res with pump like I see most people have in thie watercooling thread. Example, "EK-DDC X-Res 140 CSQ."

I am still looking at fittings. I belive I am going to go with Monsoon but we will see. I will be using Mayhem pastel mint green as coolent.

This is all going into my silverstone TJ10-ESA. Thank you for any help or ideas that might point me in the right direction before I make any mistakes.


----------



## socketus

Cylinder res - easier to bleed and if you want to run a length of tube to a fillport, same as if you wanna run a tube for a drain, it can be done from the res's threads, using fittings or barbs with the tubing. There's a bitspower mini-valve that is popular as a drain.

But the double bay res is so easy to install and not bad at all for bleeding when you're filling up the res, just leave a little extra tubing running to the bayres/pump so you can pull the bayres out an inch or so to get to the fillport.

Are you on a tight budget ? I see that the ppcs price is marked down from $70 to $50 - the 750 pump is older technology and nowhere near as good as can be had with a D5 pump. Its sorta like audio gear; you can buy a receiver and get the built in processor and amplifiers in one box, or you can go with separates - allows for more power and matching of components .... and the sound tends to be of a better quality, assuming the pieces are set up and positioned well, which usually .... I blather









Hard to beat that price on the pump/res combo, but what are you looking at for a rad ? XSPC puts out some better kits with the total package.
A 360 rad can handle a CPU and a GPU, dependent on your use of the rig - overclocking of either from a little to a lot can change your needs.

What you can do is buy small and work your way up, if you were to put the GPU under water later. But a good kit would be the EX360 - that would allow you to expand your block cooling later. But you need to figure out the room in the case - that's an older case, but it looks to have a footprint that might handle a push/pull 35mm rad setup. Deep case with over 25" and 20.5" tall at 8" wide - your rigbuilder pic shows the bay tower is walled off, looks nice, but with the H100 that's a 120.2 rad - you'd have to tear that wall out to get a 360 rad in the case, or at the least the top part, so the EX240 kit would be a good one for the CPU only. There's 2 kits - 1 with the D5 pump, the other with the DCC Laing pump - the D5 has 5 speeds, but most people run it at the default setting of # 2, which is goodenuf unless you're building a restrictive build with multiple blocks, angled fittings ....

Is your H100 in push/pull ? I can't see if there's any top fans - The EX240 rad is 35mm tall - with 25mm fans, you'd need at least 60mm of space inside the case. That case's top is shallow, so any pull fans would be sitting on top of the case top. And its better to run push fans .. inside the case if you're only gonna run 1 set of fans, but then you knew that, pretty much like your H100 setup.

And once you get started, don't be surprised to find that you become addicted and start finding reasons to buy more w/c gear


----------



## Rakin

I really want those cylindrical reservoir, any idea how much restriction would I be adding if I add one to the XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 Kit?


----------



## Kyouki

socketus


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Cylinder res - easier to bleed and if you want to run a length of tube to a fillport, same as if you wanna run a tube for a drain, it can be done from the res's threads, using fittings or barbs with the tubing. There's a bitspower mini-valve that is popular as a drain.
> But the double bay res is so easy to install and not bad at all for bleeding when you're filling up the res, just leave a little extra tubing running to the bayres/pump so you can pull the bayres out an inch or so to get to the fillport.
> Are you on a tight budget ? I see that the ppcs price is marked down from $70 to $50 - the 750 pump is older technology and nowhere near as good as can be had with a D5 pump. Its sorta like audio gear; you can buy a receiver and get the built in processor and amplifiers in one box, or you can go with separates - allows for more power and matching of components .... and the sound tends to be of a better quality, assuming the pieces are set up and positioned well, which usually .... I blather
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to beat that price on the pump/res combo, but what are you looking at for a rad ? XSPC puts out some better kits with the total package.
> A 360 rad can handle a CPU and a GPU, dependent on your use of the rig - overclocking of either from a little to a lot can change your needs.
> What you can do is buy small and work your way up, if you were to put the GPU under water later. But a good kit would be the EX360 - that would allow you to expand your block cooling later. But you need to figure out the room in the case - that's an older case, but it looks to have a footprint that might handle a push/pull 35mm rad setup. Deep case with over 25" and 20.5" tall at 8" wide - your rigbuilder pic shows the bay tower is walled off, looks nice, but with the H100 that's a 120.2 rad - you'd have to tear that wall out to get a 360 rad in the case, or at the least the top part, so the EX240 kit would be a good one for the CPU only. There's 2 kits - 1 with the D5 pump, the other with the DCC Laing pump - the D5 has 5 speeds, but most people run it at the default setting of # 2, which is goodenuf unless you're building a restrictive build with multiple blocks, angled fittings ....
> Is your H100 in push/pull ? I can't see if there's any top fans - The EX240 rad is 35mm tall - with 25mm fans, you'd need at least 60mm of space inside the case. That case's top is shallow, so any pull fans would be sitting on top of the case top. And its better to run push fans .. inside the case if you're only gonna run 1 set of fans, but then you knew that, pretty much like your H100 setup.
> And once you get started, don't be surprised to find that you become addicted and start finding reasons to buy more w/c gear






Thank you for your quick and very descriptive response. I love your analogy on audio equipment. That is something I can relate to +rep.

So I need to update my pictures in my Sig Rig. I have Cut the top out of my TJ10-ESA and fitted it with a 3x120mm Koolance Fan Shroud. So as of right now I have my H100 in Push/Pull and plan to do the same with this new set up. I was looking at the ex360 to keep it close to the height of the H100, but I was also going to see if the rx360 will fit I have a feeling it will clear by just a little bit. This case was a beast when I first got it but these days it is a B***h to work on. Based on cable management and other little things.

Future plans with in next 3 months.
- Cutting down motherboard tray to just fit the MB then custom fit around it with an acrylic backing to give it more space for cables and allowing it to hide the cable better. Like the newer cases have.
- Adding the custom watercooling loop that we are going over. Currently just the CPU will be in loop.
- Removing my custom mesh bottom cover for hiding power supply and cables and replacing it with an acrylic one that is laser cut with my design, black with green backing.

So I am not on any budget, the prices are looking good on p-pcs.com though. Once you said that the 750 in older tech and less power or options for upgrade in the future I may stray from this option and look at a cylinder res. With XSPC cpu block and ex360 or rx360.


----------



## Frozenoblivion

What are some good compression fittings for the rs360 kit?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> I really want those cylindrical reservoir, any idea how much restriction would I be adding if I add one to the XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 Kit?


Wish I could answer that, but I can't put a number on it, not sure anyone could without some lab type measurements, if you know what I mean.
From what I've been reading this year since I came to OCN, the res isn't a source of restriction - its the water blocks themselves, along with 90 degree fittings, and of course, how much tubing you run. I'd definitely advise you to reconsider the 750 RS240 and think about upgrading to at least the EX line - you get a modern, much more reliable and powerful pump - either the DCC or the D5 version of the EX240 kit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> socketus
> Thank you for your quick and very descriptive response. I love your analogy on audio equipment. That is something I can relate to +rep.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I need to update my pictures in my Sig Rig. I have Cut the top out of my TJ10-ESA and fitted it with a 3x120mm Koolance Fan Shroud. So as of right now I have my H100 in Push/Pull and plan to do the same with this new set up. I was looking at the ex360 to keep it close to the height of the H100, but I was also going to see if the rx360 will fit I have a feeling it will clear by just a little bit. This case was a beast when I first got it but these days it is a B***h to work on. Based on cable management and other little things.
> Future plans with in next 3 months.
> - Cutting down motherboard tray to just fit the MB then custom fit around it with an acrylic backing to give it more space for cables and allowing it to hide the cable better. Like the newer cases have.
> - Adding the custom watercooling loop that we are going over. Currently just the CPU will be in loop.
> - Removing my custom mesh bottom cover for hiding power supply and cables and replacing it with an acrylic one that is laser cut with my design, black with green backing.
> 
> 
> So I am not on any budget, the prices are looking good on p-pcs.com though. Once you said that the 750 in older tech and less power or options for upgrade in the future I may stray from this option and look at a cylinder res. With XSPC cpu block and ex360 or rx360.


Sounds great ! You're on the ball, then. That is an abnormally long case considering its age, and its just tall enough .... the RX360 actual height is 63.8mm, IIRC - spex say 63mm, and other peeps will tell you 58mm, but that's not counting the actual body of the beast. The only feature I wish it had, like an Alphacool rad, is multiple ports option - you might check out their EX120 multiport rad - there's a 240 & a 360, or their crossflow rads - the 2 ports are on each end - there's a 240 & a 360. And thanks for the rep









http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozenoblivion*
> 
> What are some good compression fittings for the rs360 kit?


You know that the RS kits are all End of Line - discontinued. You really otta bump up to the EX or RX line with the Raystorm block and the D5 or DCC pump - very much an upgrade from the RS line. As for fittings, looks like you have to bump up to an EX kit to get the included XSPC comp fittings - very nice, but not much selection - straight, no angle fittings, no adapters, but it'll be enough to get you thru a CPU only w/c build. Check out the XSPC fittings at an online shop - there's a reasonable, affordable choice. Later, if you get taken under by the w/c bug, you'll want to spend some money on the bigger names, pricier, but with a lot more fittings to pick from - Bitspower, Koolance, Monsoon, Enzotech, etc


----------



## Rakin

I got an exchange offer, a RS240 for a Magicool 360 with $30 cash, good deal?
And is there any way to check if the rad is corroded inside?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> I got an exchange offer, a RS240 for a Magicool 360 with $30 cash, good deal?
> And is there any way to check if the rad is corroded inside?


You talking about a trade with used gear ? from what I can find on Magicool prices in the USA - ppcs - the Magicool Slim and Pro 360 models are $10 and $20 more than the RS240.

As for corrosion, check this link out

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> You talking about a trade with used gear ? from what I can find on Magicool prices in the USA - ppcs - the Magicool Slim and Pro 360 models are $10 and $20 more than the RS240.
> As for corrosion, check this link out
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored


Yeah trade with an used rad, apparently his is in a better condition than mine.
Thanks for the link though, I'll defiantly check the outside for corrosion.


----------



## CramComplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozenoblivion*
> 
> What are some good compression fittings for the rs360 kit?


http://dazmode.com/store/product/7_16_-_5_8_-_straight_compression_fitting_-_chrome_silver_/

Read the review I did under the description.


----------



## Rakin

I ditched the idea of trading mine for a used 360mm. I was thinking of adding another 120/140mm rad, would I see any benefits in a CPU only loop?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> I ditched the idea of trading mine for a used 360mm. I was thinking of adding another 120/140mm rad, would I see any benefits in a CPU only loop?


Well, the cardinal rule is a single 120mm per block. So you have the rs240 rad ... and only the CPU is under water, I'd say *no*. Apart from bling factor, there's expandability. Say you buy a 120/140mm rad, you could run that to the cpu and the 240 to the gpu - which means buying a gpu block, but that's the expanding w/c build thing chuggin along. A gpu block tends to have more restriction, so that's why you'd wanna run it with the 240 rad.

The other thing to consider when planning a loop with 2 rads - cooling. You can cool the water before it runs to the pump - unless you have a bay res/pump combo - or just run the loop from res to pump to rad to cpu/gpu to rad to gpu/cpu and back to res, that way cooling the water before it hits the cpu/gpu and then cooling it again before it hits the gpu/cpu before going back to res. Either way, the temps will even out over a short time thru the whole loop. Loop designing is more about not crossing tube runs, keep em short, and feed that pump from the res as soon as possible.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Well, the cardinal rule is a single 120mm per block. So you have the rs240 rad ... and only the CPU is under water, I'd say *no*. Apart from bling factor, there's expandability. Say you buy a 120/140mm rad, you could run that to the cpu and the 240 to the gpu - which means buying a gpu block, but that's the expanding w/c build thing chuggin along. A gpu block tends to have more restriction, so that's why you'd wanna run it with the 240 rad.
> The other thing to consider when planning a loop with 2 rads - cooling. You can cool the water before it runs to the pump - unless you have a bay res/pump combo - or just run the loop from res to pump to rad to cpu/gpu to rad to gpu/cpu and back to res, that way cooling the water before it hits the cpu/gpu and then cooling it again before it hits the gpu/cpu before going back to res. Either way, the temps will even out over a short time thru the whole loop. Loop designing is more about not crossing tube runs, keep em short, and feed that pump from the res as soon as possible.


Okay, then I better save up for a GPU block, then I could cool both of them under water.
Thanks for all the help. +Rep.


----------



## ebduncan

Hey all

I ordered my RX240 Kit, pics to come, In a Fractal Arc Midi.

couple of questions about the kit. I know the pump isn't the greatest, but do you think the pump will be enough to be able do the following

Waterblock my 7950, and water cool the board, along with the cpu, with a addional dual 140mm radiator?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Hey all
> I ordered my RX240 Kit, pics to come, In a Fractal Arc Midi.
> couple of questions about the kit. I know the pump isn't the greatest, but do you think the pump will be enough to be able do the following
> Waterblock my 7950, and water cool the board, along with the cpu, with a addional dual 140mm radiator?


I would say so. I have an Asus Commando/E8400 with the old Rasa pump running a 240 for the ATI 4870 and a non-xspc 120 for the E8400 and managed to squeak 5GHz out of it. (Not my main rig - that has two loops.)
Admittedly no blocks on the mobo....


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I would say so. I have an Asus Commando/E8400 with the old Rasa pump running a 240 for the ATI 4870 and a non-xspc 120 for the E8400 and managed to squeak 5GHz out of it. (Not my main rig - that has two loops.)
> Admittedly no blocks on the mobo....


Cool thanks for the quick reply. I guess the worst that can happen is my temps won't be the greatest due to poor flow. Then i will just upgrade to a D5 pump. I actually have a submersible pump for a old outdoor fountain. Its a rather serious pump though at like 1000 gallons per hour lol. Overkill but i might be tempted to try such things.


----------



## suburban78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Hey all
> I ordered my RX240 Kit, pics to come, In a Fractal Arc Midi.
> couple of questions about the kit. I know the pump isn't the greatest, but do you think the pump will be enough to be able do the following
> Waterblock my 7950, and water cool the board, along with the cpu, with a addional dual 140mm radiator?


No. That pump is hardly enough to push through what it comes with let alone another rad or full GPU block . I just installed the RS360 kit that uses the same pump and it was a rattly and annoying. I switched to a Swiftec D5 pump and a Bitsmart Z 250 res and system temps dropped 12C. Replaced the XSPC 1650rpm fans and another 4C drop. That's 16C bellow stock configuration

EDIT: Great case! That's what I am running and a 360 rad fit nicely up top


----------



## suburban78

I have a XSPC 750 Dual Bay pump\res if anyone wants it! Only ran for about 20 hrs. Pump rattles and I wasn't going to pay another $23 to ship a brand new pump back and wait weeks for a replacement from Frozen-Cpu. XSPC told me I had to deal with Frozen only for warranty issues... So, if anyone wants this thing and deal with the warranty its yours for shipping cost.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suburban78*
> 
> No. That pump is hardly enough to push through what it comes with let alone another rad or full GPU block . I just installed the RS360 kit that uses the same pump and it was a rattly and annoying. I switched to a Swiftec D5 pump and a Bitsmart Z 250 res and system temps dropped 12C. Replaced the XSPC 1650rpm fans and another 4C drop. That's 16C bellow stock configuration
> EDIT: Great case! That's what I am running and a 360 rad fit nicely up top


I only had one that was rattly and annoying. (I've got 6 XSPC setups here) It was defective. The shop where I bought it replaced the pump and I've had no trouble since. As said, I've got a 240 kit pumping through an extra GPU block and 120 rad without problem.

I have the same pump feeding three GTX580 blocks and an RX360 too. I find no temperature difference between that and my Laing DDC 3.2 (18w) running an RX360.

Martin at SkinneeLabs is good for tests on this sort of stuff, flow rates and temperatures, effect of bends and restrictions on temperatures. When I bought my first water cooling setup I bought all the expensive stuff. Even imagined I needed 2 DDC pumps to feed my two RX360 rads, but one was plenty. Now I just get the XSPC gear and spend the extra on other hardware and stuff.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> No. That pump is hardly enough to push through what it comes with let alone another rad or full GPU block . I just installed the RS360 kit that uses the same pump and it was a rattly and annoying. I switched to a Swiftec D5 pump and a Bitsmart Z 250 res and system temps dropped 12C. Replaced the XSPC 1650rpm fans and another 4C drop. That's 16C bellow stock configuration
> 
> EDIT: Great case! That's what I am running and a 360 rad fit nicely up top


your words are noted, thanks! I will experiment with the stock setup first, then upgrade. I don't plan on using the stock XSPC fans. I have a set of delta 120mm high speed fans I will be using. (i do undervolt them)

I would have gone with the RX360 kit but i didn't want to loose my 5.25" bays. I burn and rip dvd's and blu-rays quite often. Not to mention watch them. So i need to keep at least one 5.25" bay, and the 360 radiator wouldn't let me do that.

From my measurements i can fit a slim dual 140mm radiator in the front, with a relocation of the bottom drive cage inwards a little bit. With the Rx240 up top and the 280 will net me around 520mm of radiator. Which should be more than enough for my cpu, video card, and mobo. Going to be tricky to get all of it inside the case in a neat and manageable way.


----------



## suburban78

The issue I had was not being able to return it a local store since nobody in my area carries them and I couldn't be without my rig for weeks. I'm only going off my experience with the unit I revived on Thursday. I will say that all the components are very good quality and looked great! (pump excluded of course)


----------



## suburban78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I would have gone with the RX360 kit but i didn't want to loose my 5.25" bays. I burn and rip dvd's and blu-rays quite often. Not to mention watch them. So i need to keep at least one 5.25" bay, and the 360 radiator wouldn't let me do that.


Check this out for your optical! I was just going to cut a 5.25" bay opening in the side cover


----------



## ebduncan

i actually saw that. Thought it was interesting. However i have no intentions on cutting my side panel to do such a thing. I can just mount the optical in the 5.25" bay, because i went with a 240 radiator.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suburban78*
> 
> The issue I had was not being able to return it a local store since nobody in my area carries them and I couldn't be without my rig for weeks. I'm only going off my experience with the unit I revived on Thursday. I will say that all the components are very good quality and looked great! (pump excluded of course)


I'm "lucky" in that I've spent a small fortune with one supplier, so they were really good about it. They are 1000 miles away, but probably the best in Australia, PCCaseGear. Also in a room full of PCs, one not going for a week is not so bad. Once I started buying XSPC kits I was hooked.


----------



## DueVendetta




----------



## ebduncan

not the cleanest, but functional.

just got the kit installed, dropped my temps a fair bit compared to the antec 920.

Would there be much benefit to doing push/pull?


----------



## Kerelm

hey guys,

I just ordered an XSPC 240mm kit and i'm wondering if i can use bitspower or EK fittings on the XSPC gear?

thanks


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerelm*
> 
> hey guys,
> I just ordered an XSPC 240mm kit and i'm wondering if i can use bitspower or EK fittings on the XSPC gear?
> thanks


You sure can, as long as they are G1/4" threaded, which is about 98% of the PC water cooling market


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> You sure can, as long as they are G1/4" threaded, which is about 98% of the PC water cooling market


Its all g 1/4 thread.

So yes you can.

If you have the raystorm kit then it comes with fairly nice compression fittings already.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> *Its all g 1/4 thread.*


No it is not, Thermill Chill Fittings as well as a couple of other manu's have older/different sizing.

I stated the G1/4" part just so Kerelm is aware what to look for.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> No it is not, Thermill Chill Fittings as well as a couple of other manu's have older/different sizing.
> 
> I stated the G1/4" part just so Kerelm is aware what to look for.


he was talking about the xspc kit....


----------



## The Sandman

It's been just long enough that I can't recall so I need to ask, can the Rasa/Raystorm blocks be mounted with the in/out ports running vertical instead of horizontal without affecting performance?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> It's been just long enough that I can't recall so I need to ask, can the Rasa/Raystorm blocks be mounted with the in/out ports running vertical instead of horizontal without affecting performance?


I don't see how it would effect it

Your pump pumps the liquid through it regardless of its orientation.


----------



## socketus

Here's some experienced w/c-ers posting on that subject - it seems to not matter.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1274243/xspc-raystorm-orientation


----------



## Eeyore888

Just ordered my XSPC RS240









I should have it either Tuesday or Wednesday next week









<--- Former owner of an H60 that popped a hose... Reviews look extremely promising for this kit.

I'm concerned about potential leaks, is there a coolant I can use that doesn't conduct a current? Or are there specific tricks? Besides making the fittings perfect lol.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Just ordered my XSPC RS240
> 
> I should have it either Tuesday or Wednesday next week
> 
> <--- Former owner of an H60 that popped a hose... Reviews look extremely promising for this kit.
> 
> I'm concerned about potential leaks, is there a coolant I can use that doesn't conduct a current? Or are there specific tricks? Besides making the fittings perfect lol.


most liquids are conductive. However your in luck as innovatek advertises a non conductive fluid.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2120/ex-liq-19/Innovatek_Protect_1_Liter_Non-Conductive_Water_Cooling_Fluid_-_Ready_to_Use_500473.html?tl=g30c337s889

Just be sure you secure all your fittings. I prefer the barb fittings personally, due to the fact they have a hex nut on the bottom which i can use a deep socket wrench on to make sure its tightened properly. Compression fittings secure the hose to the fitting really well. Most importantly just set up your loop, then do a leak test for 24 hours.


----------



## Eeyore888

I'm still learning about all the different parts. What fittings does the RS240 come with? Can I use tiny hose clamps just to be safe? (The ones that are a strip of metal with a screw the ratchets down the strip)


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I'm still learning about all the different parts. What fittings does the RS240 come with? Can I use tiny hose clamps just to be safe? (The ones that are a strip of metal with a screw the ratchets down the strip)


depends on what kit, if its the rasa kit then they come with barb fittings, if its the raystorm kit then it comes with compression fittings.


----------



## Eeyore888

http://www.svc.com/r750rs240.html

The product name says "Raystorm" but the description says "Rasa kit"...

EDIT: I looked at the description and it says
" - Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock"
" - G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6"

So it's the Rasa kit?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> http://www.svc.com/r750rs240.html
> 
> The product name says "Raystorm" but the description says "Rasa kit"...
> 
> EDIT: I looked at the description and it says
> " - Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock"
> " - G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6"
> 
> So it's the Rasa kit?
> Edited by Eeyore888 - Today at 4:46 pm


that is odd if you order from them i would call to confirm your order first.,

but here Order from these guys. cheaper to boot.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c321/s1310/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Water_Cooling_Kits_-_Brands-XSPC_Water_Cooling_Kits-Page1.html


----------



## Eeyore888

DId a little digging. The Raystorm is the improvement over the Rasa. It's replaced it in the kits. But I guess this kit comes with barbed fittings anyway... and I doubt there will be much difference between the two blocks compared to what I was using before


----------



## socketus

Don't forget that the Rasa kits use the older 750 pump instead of the much improved D5 style pump.
Raystorm block is also a big improvement over the Rasa block - Raystorm is one of the least restrictive blocks available.

And I find that these guys usually beat FCPU on price and package parts !


----------



## Eeyore888

I already bought the kit : /

But it comes with either the Rasa block or the Raystorm... Pictures say it's the Raystorm, and the listing says it's the Raystorm 750 RS240... But I do see that it should come with the 750 pump. But oh well, can't have everything go perfect... where's the fun in that?!









Still, no matter the difference in kit parts, I do not mind at all paying $150 for a kit that I can personally assemble and know will out perform any of the closed loop systems on the market


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I already bought the kit : /
> 
> But it comes with either the Rasa block or the Raystorm... Pictures say it's the Raystorm, and the listing says it's the Raystorm 750 RS240... But I do see that it should come with the 750 pump. But oh well, can't have everything go perfect... where's the fun in that?!
> 
> Still, no matter the difference in kit parts, I do not mind at all paying $150 for a kit that I can personally assemble and know will out perform any of the closed loop systems on the market


This is true. However there are different versions of the 750 pump. Still a 750 lph pump though. The Raystorm block out performs the Rasa block by 4-5c though so its a big change there. So hopefully you get the raystorm block. So you made a wise choice there.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eeyore888*
> 
> Still, no matter the difference in kit parts, I do not mind at all paying $150 for a kit that I can personally assemble and know will out perform any of the closed loop systems on the market


That is right, no matter what kit it is you will be happy with it.

Then you will probably start building a bigger and better loop, spending more and more.

Then you will want to change it just becoz.........

Water cooling becomes addictive


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eeyore888*
> 
> I already bought the kit : /
> But it comes with either the Rasa block or the Raystorm... Pictures say it's the Raystorm, and the listing says it's the Raystorm 750 RS240... But I do see that it should come with the 750 pump. But oh well, can't have everything go perfect... where's the fun in that?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, no matter the difference in kit parts, I do not mind at all paying $150 for a kit that I can personally assemble and know will out perform any of the closed loop systems on the market


The picture show Raystorm block but the listed items are (http://www.svc.com/r750rs240.html) :-
What's included:
- Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock
- Socket 775, 1366 and 1154 Back plates
- Socket AM2 and AM3 mounting kit
- X2O 750 12V Pump/Reservoir
- 5mm Blue LED with 4Pin Molex
- RS240 Radiator
- 80mm to 120mm Radiator brackets
- Low Noise 1700rpm 120mm Fan x2
- 120mm Fan Grill x2
- 2 Meters of Clear 7/16" Hose
- G1/4" to 1/2" barbs x6
- Thermal Paste

Not one of the items is Raystorm part. Even the CPU block is "Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock". The only thing you can customized is the pump, you can choose between X20 & D5 pump.


----------



## Eeyore888

I can't find where I read it, but the Raystorm replaced the Rasa, correct? I think someone just didn't update everything completely... That's why the product name says "Raystorm" and not "Rasa" and the images are the new parts of the same kit from XSPC. My guess is that someone forgot to update the overview







Anyways, I don't care. It's going to be an awesome kit no matter what.


----------



## kizwan

Raystorm doesn't replace Rasa because if this true Rasa kit will not available anymore. Both kit still available from XSPC. Raystorm has better parts (better pump, cpu block & rad) than Rasa & cost more. (I didn't mean Rasa is not good.) See XSPC official pages:-
Rasa RS240 kit: http://www.xs-pc.com/products/watercooling-kits/rasa-750-rs240-watercooling-kit/
Raystorm EX24o kit: http://www.xs-pc.com/products/watercooling-kits/d5-kits/raystorm-d5-ex240-watercooling-kit/


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Raystorm doesn't replace Rasa because if this true Rasa kit will not available anymore. Both kit still available from XSPC. Raystorm has better parts (better pump, cpu block & rad) than Rasa & cost more. (I didn't mean Rasa is not good.) See XSPC official pages:-
> Rasa RS240 kit: http://www.xs-pc.com/products/watercooling-kits/rasa-750-rs240-watercooling-kit/
> Raystorm EX24o kit: http://www.xs-pc.com/products/watercooling-kits/d5-kits/raystorm-d5-ex240-watercooling-kit/


your comparing a RS kit with a EX kit....

only difference between the raystorm and the rasa RS and RX kits is the cpu block.

The Raystorm is the replacement parts to the Rasa, which is why you no longer see it listed as a product on the xs-pc site.


----------



## brent1118

Hey everybody

Just did my first water cooling setup in a Cooler Master ATCS840. Case has plenty of room so I went with the XSPC Raystorm 360. Below are the pictures and the results with Prime95 after 3 hour. Wanted to see what you guys thought of the results and if they were decent with a 930 OC'd to 4Ghz. I feel like it is high but it def. dropped a lot compared to my old Thermaltake Frio. Could it possibly be a bad seat? To verify too I have the tubing going from the outlet on the pump/res --> rad --> inlet on cpu block --> inlet on the pump/res.

Any feedback or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> your comparing a RS kit with a EX kit....
> only difference between the raystorm and the rasa RS and RX kits is the cpu block.
> The Raystorm is the replacement parts to the Rasa, which is why you no longer see it listed as a product on the xs-pc site.


OK, my bad. I didn't see this page: http://www.xs-pc.com/products/watercooling-kits/

The Rasa kit is already in "Discontinued Kits"

The Rasa parts (the block & pump) still available though:-
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/pumps/

For the "kit", before it's Rasa & Raystorm but now Raystorm 750 & Raystorm D5. The only differences between the two are the pump & rad.

For Eeyore888's case, need to contact SVC.com to confirm whether it come with the Raystorm block or the Rasa block. Because if Rasa block, the title in the product page is wrong & misleading.


----------



## Eeyore888

If I get the Rasa kit instead, I'll just let them know the title is wrong and so are the supplied pics and see where it goes from their. But I honestly won't need more from my system than to keep my 8350 under 47c @ 4.7ghz...


----------



## Rakin

Everybody be aware, the barbs that come with the "XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240" kit don't like 1/2 ID and 3/4OD tubing much.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1335942/1-2-barbs-and-1-2-id-3-4-od-hose-leaking


----------



## alancsalt

The barbs and clamps that come with Rasa kits only ever worked on the supplied tubing for me. The barbs are short and the tubing is not 3/4OD. If you want to go aftermarket tubing I'd recommend either new barbs and clamps to suit, or compression fittings.

I don't see this as a fault though. XSPC provide components that work together at a good price point. If we want to change bits, that's our look out.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> The barbs and clamps that come with Rasa kits only ever worked on the supplied tubing for me. The barbs are short and the tubing is not 3/4OD. If you want to go aftermarket tubing I'd recommend either new barbs and clamps to suit, or compression fittings.
> I don't see this as a fault though. XSPC provide components that work together at a good price point. If we want to change bits, that's our look out.


No the stock tubing that comes with the kit are 7/16 ID and 1/2 OD, I got myself some 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD tubings and they are too loose on the XSPC barbs hence they leak. Sad part is, even with Zip-ties or the clamps on they still leak, especially near the pump outlet. And yeah its our lookout but they list the barbs as 1/2 OD, obviously if it was that size they wouldn't leak with 1/2 ID tubing would it?


----------



## anticommon

So a few weeks ago I accidentally put a couple holes in my RX240 by using screws that were too long. I ordered a replacement and now have one radiator sitting in my closet that has two or three screw holes in it. What should I do with this broken radiator? I know I can get it soldered back together but I don't really have the time, nor the soldering equipment with which to do this.

Any ideas?


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> So a few weeks ago I accidentally put a couple holes in my RX240 by using screws that were too long. I ordered a replacement and now have one radiator sitting in my closet that has two or three screw holes in it. What should I do with this broken radiator? I know I can get it soldered back together but I don't really have the time, nor the soldering equipment with which to do this.
> Any ideas?


Are the holes on the fins or the small tubes inside the rad? If its the first then, it should work fine, only airflow would be restricted if anything.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> No the stock tubing that comes with the kit are 7/16 ID and 1/2 OD, I got myself some 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD tubings and they are too loose on the XSPC barbs hence they leak. Sad part is, even with Zip-ties or the clamps on they still leak, especially near the pump outlet. And yeah its our lookout but they list the barbs as 1/2 OD, obviously if it was that size they wouldn't leak with 1/2 ID tubing would it?


I've got a vernier caliper in my hand, one of my XSPC barbs, and an EK barb. Both check out at .5 inches OD. Unless they've changed them. In my experience it's just that the XSPC tubing is thinner, same ID, less OD, so the supplied clamps work with the XSPC tubing but not aftermarket.

I've got 7 XSPC rads in this room, and the barbs are shorter, but still all .5 inch OD.


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Are the holes on the fins or the small tubes inside the rad? If its the first then, it should work fine, only airflow would be restricted if anything.


The holes are in the tubes I should mention, hence the need for a bit of soldering. They are small holes so theoretically a drop of solder plus some liquid concrete over the top of it should seal them perfectly, but I just can't do it myself unless I come across something to solder it with.

As it is right now the thing leaks like no other... almost killed my PC when I didn't realize that it had these crazy holes.


----------



## alancsalt

It can be brazed or soldered. Do you know anyone who makes silver jewellry, because it's a fairly fine job. The risk with a radiator shop is that they'll do a "gobby" job..


----------



## Eeyore888

I emailed SVC and they replied back with a phone call! They apologized for the mix up in the writing and confirmed that Raystorm waterblock is included in the kit!!!







Can't wait to get my system on Wednesday!!!


----------



## grimreaper01

Anyone know anything about the raystorm backplate? I need advice on clearing or keeping the white tape. More info here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1209048/official-nzxt-switch-810-thread/9770#post_18785599


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Anyone know anything about the raystorm backplate? I need advice on clearing or keeping the white tape. More info here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1209048/official-nzxt-switch-810-thread/9770#post_18785599


It is harmless you don't need to remove it. It Is just there so when you install the back plate, you don't have to hold it in place before you mount the water block. With out it there you would have to hold the back plate to the back of the board while you secure the water block.

You can leave it on there it will not hurt anything.


----------



## Constantine85

I am about to pull the trigger on the XSPC Raystorm RS240 kit. Does anyone have any advise on fittings, tubes or coolant to use? I know its not the RX or EX series kit but asking more in general. I want to some quality fittings especially. The local MicroCenter sells a lot of XSPC stuff so the kit can be upgraded in the future. Thoughts?


----------



## grimreaper01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> It is harmless you don't need to remove it. It Is just there so when you install the back plate, you don't have to hold it in place before you mount the water block. With out it there you would have to hold the back plate to the back of the board while you secure the water block.
> You can leave it on there it will not hurt anything.


Thank that's the answer I was looking for, I was actually afraid it would conduct.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Constantine85*
> 
> I am about to pull the trigger on the XSPC Raystorm RS240 kit. Does anyone have any advise on fittings, tubes or coolant to use? I know its not the RX or EX series kit but asking more in general. I want to some quality fittings especially. The local MicroCenter sells a lot of XSPC stuff so the kit can be upgraded in the future. Thoughts?


Any g 1/4 thread fittings will work with the kit. The tubing size will determine what size fittings you buy with the g 1/4" thread.

Coolant, doesn't really matter. I personally recommend distilled water with water wetter. Cheap and readily available locally. I would also recommend a silver kill coil, or pt nuke to prevent algae build up.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Constantine85*
> 
> I am about to pull the trigger on the XSPC Raystorm RS240 kit. Does anyone have any advise on fittings, tubes or coolant to use? I know its not the RX or EX series kit but asking more in general. I want to some quality fittings especially. The local MicroCenter sells a lot of XSPC stuff so the kit can be upgraded in the future. Thoughts?


Considering you have a CM 690 II Advanced, great case BTW







I would suggest a smaller size tubing with a thicker wall ie. 3/8"-5/8".

It will tend to give you better bends. I have just used Masterkleer which is a delight to work with, and also used Primochill LRT, in the past, which I think you can get a tighter bend with, but I have heard so many things about plasticizer problems with the Primochill.

If it is barbs and clamps I would suggest XSPC barbs, they are really good for the cost, I have used over a dozen with no problems to report. As for clamps, find one you like, there is many out there.

When it comes to compression fittings I have only used Bitspower, which I rinsed my loop with viniger and found it stripps the coating off







If you do go the compression fittings, just make sure obvisiously that the size is identical to the tubing being used









I have used plain Distilled water with silver and currently using Mayhems Pastel Blue, both seem to work a treat. But it is a preference thing. Even Mayhems will tell you, if you want a plain looking color, tubing is the way to go. If you want to create or have a color not availible as tubing, go coolant


----------



## Constantine85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Any g 1/4 thread fittings will work with the kit. The tubing size will determine what size fittings you buy with the g 1/4" thread.
> Coolant, doesn't really matter. I personally recommend distilled water with water wetter. Cheap and readily available locally. I would also recommend a silver kill coil, or pt nuke to prevent algae build up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Considering you have a CM 690 II Advanced, great case BTW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would suggest a smaller size tubing with a thicker wall ie. 3/8"-5/8".
> It will tend to give you better bends. I have just used Masterkleer which is a delight to work with, and also used Primochill LRT, in the past, which I think you can get a tighter bend with, but I have heard so many things about plasticizer problems with the Primochill.
> If it is barbs and clamps I would suggest XSPC barbs, they are really good for the cost, I have used over a dozen with no problems to report. As for clamps, find one you like, there is many out there.
> When it comes to compression fittings I have only used Bitspower, which I rinsed my loop with viniger and found it stripps the coating off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do go the compression fittings, just make sure obvisiously that the size is identical to the tubing being used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have used plain Distilled water with silver and currently using Mayhems Pastel Blue, both seem to work a treat. But it is a preference thing. Even Mayhems will tell you, if you want a plain looking color, tubing is the way to go. If you want to create or have a color not availible as tubing, go coolant


Thank you both for the advice. I am excited to step into a new realm of tuning and tinkering! I will probably be posting more questions like a noob







but will do the homework as needed too! I dont want to use any dyes as I have heard they can clump up. I will get some colored tubing from the local MC or just add it to my order on Frozen CPU. I will get the drops too. The Bitspower fittings, I will check out in addition to the XSPC ones. I know its not the BIG OL' KAHUNA kit but its a start for me. I am trying to figure out if the stock 120mm fans they give you are decent enough. As for ginger nuts, We have the same case (yours looks great too btw







) I will be using the 140mm fans mounted inside the case with the rad on the top between the metal chassis and the plastic bezel. You know what I mean. That should work. If the fans are better than the 140mm Prolimitech 87cfm fans, than I will use XSPC 120mm ones. Thank you greatly you both. I am trying to go for MOTM soon!!


----------



## TwiggLe

Question (which might have been answered but there's like 1348 pages to look through...

Will the RX240 or the RS/RX360 fit in a Corsair 400r? Or should I stick with the RS240 for top mounting the Rad inside the case.


----------



## Constantine85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> Question (which might have been answered but there's like 1348 pages to look through...
> Will the RX240 or the RS/RX360 fit in a Corsair 400r? Or should I stick with the RS240 for top mounting the Rad inside the case.


I know the RX 240 will fit. The 360 might be a little different. I have the Coolermaster 690 which is close to the same size. A 360 rad might not fit but some other people might beg to differ.
If it were me, I would go with the RX240. I am going with the RS since the RX is sold out on Frozen CPU.


----------



## TwiggLe

I'm just wanting to make sure that the rad and fans will fit inside the case at the top. Can't seem to find any real pics and looking for the Corsair 400r thread I can't find any concrete answer either.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> I'm just wanting to make sure that the rad and fans will fit inside the case at the top. Can't seem to find any real pics and looking for the Corsair 400r thread I can't find any concrete answer either.


Is this guy your Australian cuz ??

http://www.overclock.net/t/1119694/official-corsair-carbide-series-300r-400r-500r-owners-club/590#post_15581603

read a few posts down to see a reply to this guy's - Twoogle - question about fitting a rx240 into a 400r.
Really, all you gotta do is measure the inside from top of case to top of mobo - since its a 240, its not going to interfere with the front trays/towers.
But the rx line is 63mm tall - add a fan inside the case as a push fan, thats nearly 90mm of space. I don't remember the 400r's dimensions, or space if the fan mounts up top are centered, but you can get away with a 240 rad if its narrow enough, just need to check that height or tall dimension.

Their own hype says it will support upto a 240 rad with the H100 kit, tho I've run across posts saying otherwise. But the H100i is only 27mm tall.

*ADD*: check this thread out, guy got an rx240 in his 400r ... and then in the last month, took it out when he put in a tall res. And he had 2 ex240 rads in the case :!:!


----------



## TwiggLe

Thanks sir









Also as far as I'm aware no relatives in AU.
My family comes directly from Germany.


----------



## Constantine85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> I'm just wanting to make sure that the rad and fans will fit inside the case at the top. Can't seem to find any real pics and looking for the Corsair 400r thread I can't find any concrete answer either.


Can you put 2 120mm fans on the bottom of your case? in front of the PSU? if you can do that, you should be able to fit a 120x240 rad meaning the RS or RX will work. Even if your case has holes for both those fans you can fit it. Same goes for the top.
Looking at some photos of the 400R, It appears a 240 rad can go in the top since Corsair has their factory photos of your case with the H100 CL system mounted on the top.
http://www.corsair.com/pc-cases/carbide-series-pc-case/carbide-series-400r-mid-tower-case.html


----------



## Constantine85

Also check to see if the front HDD rack can be taken out. If so, than you are in good shape to have a rad down there.. as far as a 360 rad.. not sure on that one.


----------



## ginger_nuts

@ Constantine85 About the XSPC fans, personally I think they suck big time.

But that is my personal perception of them.

As for fitting the rad above the case but below the bezel, I didn't think it will fit







the rad measures 35mm (just over 1 1/4").

But a slight modding on the plastic I would imagine it can fit


----------



## Constantine85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> @ Constantine85 About the XSPC fans, personally I think they suck big time.
> But that is my personal perception of them.
> As for fitting the rad above the case but below the bezel, I didn't think it will fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the rad measures 35mm (just over 1 1/4").
> But a slight modding on the plastic I would imagine it can fit


I cut away at the plastic holding the filter in place to buy some extra and to made for better evacuation of the air from the top of the case. I will probably mount the rad on the top and do anymore modding if needed and use the 140mm fans underneath and push the air out. If that doesnt work, I will drill holes for the rad barbs to come through the chassis or figure something out with that.


----------



## Eeyore888

What static pressure would you guys recommend for the RS240? I have a couple Cougar 19db 2.2mmh20 fans (VH12)
Fans are getting expensive for more static pressure and low noise lol...


----------



## socketus

Cougars are good, the new corsair are too, scythe gentle typhoon line are widely acknowledged and tested to be the best, but bland looking.


----------



## Constantine85

So the RS240 is sold out.. The RX240 is $10 more and in stock. Is it worth it?


----------



## chann3l

Ordering a rs240 kit from dazmode after christmas and adding compression fittings and planning to use primo chill LRT tube. I'm wondering if anyone has one of these set up in a 500R and if so was there enough room to fit the rad in the top space for mounting 2 120 or 140mm fans? Thanks in advance


----------



## Eeyore888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Cougars are good, the new corsair are too, scythe gentle typhoon line are widely acknowledged and tested to be the best, but bland looking.


I saw a review comparing the Cougars I just bought to the 1850 rpm typhoon, the Cougar moves more are but is a little louder even though it's rated 19db and the typhoon is 28db. I'll post later how well they work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Constantine85*
> 
> So the RS240 is sold out.. The RX240 is $10 more and in stock. Is it worth it?


As for the RS vs RX, $10 more seems like a good trade off. Plus why would you want to wait?







Just make sure you have the clearance


----------



## alancsalt

RX is thicker, not as easy to fit up top if that's what you want it for?


----------



## TwiggLe

RS is in stock at Jabtech
http://jab-tech.com/XSPC-RayStorm-750-RS240-WaterCooling-Kit-pr-5030.html#buynow

I think we have a discount for them also don't we?

Yeah from the first post.

Code: facebook
Gets 5% off.


----------



## ebduncan

the RX is much better than the RS. the rx240 radiator pretty much = 360 RS

If you have the room get the RX.


----------



## jeffblute

If you don't have room go EX


----------



## battosaii

Just an Update ive been running my Rasa 750rs kit with the 360 rad since September 2011 and i have not once flushed the system.
I ran Distilled water with a kill coil and a few drops of biocide and the water is still crystal clear you can see it in the res but the hoses are all yellowed.
There have been no leaks at all in this time and no problems with a loop running 24/7 for over a year BUT the pump has become noisy now.

im going to reuse the radiator and the cpu block on my next build but the rest will be a custom loop once you go water cooling you never go back


----------



## Constantine85

Thank you!


----------



## Constantine85

Actually my question should have been.. Is the RX240 Rasa better than the RS240 Raystorm? The Raystorm has a better water block... Is the thicker rad still worth it?


----------



## Eeyore888

Raystorm block is better than Rasa block by 3-5c from what I've read. The radiators are the same ones for both water blocks. But I don't know if the bigger rad with the lesser block is better than the smaller rad with a better block...


----------



## iandroo888

temps on my setup is super good now.. idles maybe high 20s... load up to 50.. XD ! woo ! so happy

so ive been lookin for a new pump (something along the lines of the 655). if i were to unplug the 750 that came with the rasa kit, can i stick a pump in the loop somewhere and use the 750 as just as a res instead of a res/pump?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> temps on my setup is super good now.. idles maybe high 20s... load up to 50.. XD ! woo ! so happy
> so ive been lookin for a new pump (something along the lines of the 655). if i were to unplug the 750 that came with the rasa kit, can i stick a pump in the loop somewhere and use the 750 as just as a res instead of a res/pump?


Yes you can, but there would be no point unless you are planning on adding a couple gpu's.

The 750 is a pretty good pump and res. combo.


----------



## iandroo888

lower noise... less hassle with water levels lowering on bay res..


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> lower noise... less hassle with water levels lowering on bay res..


Pumping air for too long can make a 750 noisy, or just being faulty... but none of mine seem noisy to me. I sent a noisy one back under warranty and had it replaced.

Don't understand how a different pump would change the water level situation. I regularly top up with a squeeze bottle that has a length of tubing attached. Even not used as a pump that fill hole would still be awkward. I imagine it would be better if there was some kind of fill port extension for them.

My DDC 18W with XSPC bay res in my CM690-II needs topping up too.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Pumping air for too long can make a 750 noisy, or just being faulty... but none of mine seem noisy to me. I sent a noisy one back under warranty and had it replaced.
> Don't understand how a different pump would change the water level situation. I regularly top up with a squeeze bottle that has a length of tubing attached. Even not used as a pump that fill hole would still be awkward. I imagine it would be better if there was some kind of fill port extension for them.
> My DDC 18W with XSPC bay res in my CM690-II needs topping up too.


well i try to keep the water level higher than the pump so it does not create the noise and add air.

not saying different pump would change the water level situation, but i can pay less attention to it. my computer is positioned in the corner of the room where the res/front of computer faces a wall away from me. so it's kind of hard to keep an eye on the water level. Only time i notice it is when it gets noisy and i hear like air going into the loop.. =____________= i have a squeeze bottle filled with ultra pure water i got from research lab for refilling.

maybe at one point in time, i may consider removing the 5.25" bays from the case (gotta drill out the rivets tho).. mount the pump on top of the 3.5" rotated HDD bay with a dampener pad. do like a pump on bottom with something like the EK-D5 X-Res Top 140 so it goes in on the top and out the bottom... maybe allow me to do a fill port from top of the case to top of the res too or something


----------



## Constantine85

So this kit:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14182/ex-wat-181/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_RX240_Radiator_and_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310

or the Raystorm RS240?
The Rasa has the smaller block but bigger rad.
I would also be using the 133cfm ultra kaza fans..since the cooling happens in the rad, then it might be a better buy. It might make make up for the 3-4 degree advantage the Raystorm block has over the Rasa one by having a thicker rad and fans that are twice as powerful.

thoughts? I will be pulling the trigger soon. Owners, let me know


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Constantine85*
> 
> So this kit:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14182/ex-wat-181/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_RX240_Radiator_and_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> or the Raystorm RS240?
> The Rasa has the smaller block but bigger rad.
> I would also be using the 133cfm ultra kaza fans..since the cooling happens in the rad, then it might be a better buy. It might make make up for the 3-4 degree advantage the Raystorm block has over the Rasa one by having a thicker rad and fans that are twice as powerful.
> thoughts? I will be pulling the trigger soon. Owners, let me know


that is the RASA kit .


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Constantine85*
> 
> So this kit:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14182/ex-wat-181/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_RX240_Radiator_and_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> or the Raystorm RS240?
> The Rasa has the smaller block but bigger rad.
> I would also be using the 133cfm ultra kaza fans..since the cooling happens in the rad, then it might be a better buy. It might make make up for the 3-4 degree advantage the Raystorm block has over the Rasa one by having a thicker rad and fans that are twice as powerful.
> thoughts? I will be pulling the trigger soon. Owners, let me know


If I were you, I'd calculate the total cost if I want to upgrade the block/rad later. This is what I will do if I can't decide which one to get.

First, Rasa RX240 kit, let say you want to upgrade the block in the future:-
(price for Rasa RX240 kit) + (Raystorm block) = XXX

Second, Raystorm RS240, let say you want to upgrade the rad in the future:-
(price for Raystorm RS240) + (RX240 rad) = YYY

Compare both & get the cheaper one.


----------



## Constantine85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If I were you, I'd calculate the total cost if I want to upgrade the block/rad later. This is what I will do if I can't decide which one to get.
> First, Rasa RX240 kit, let say you want to upgrade the block in the future:-
> (price for Rasa RX240 kit) + (Raystorm block) = XXX
> Second, Raystorm RS240, let say you want to upgrade the rad in the future:-
> (price for Raystorm RS240) + (RX240 rad) = YYY
> Compare both & get the cheaper one.


Its funny you say that:
RS 240 with single 240 rad and raystorm block:
$129.99 + $72.99 - $202.98

RX 240 with double 240 rad and Rasa block:
$139.99 + $72.99 = $202.98

Looks like I am going with the RX240 for now and will upgrade the block later. Regardless I will upgrading the fans. No one will know if the 3-4 degrees variance will be made up for in the trade off between the Rasa and Raystorm and and double and single rad respectively. The RX is in stock while the RS is on backorder from Frozen CPU. I could go to the link provided in the thread earlier and get 5% off the RS240 kit if needed be. But will probably go with the RX now. Frozen CPU normally gets to my place quickly since we are both on the east coast. Now its onto tubing and fasteners I want to get.
Thank you both! I am a bit of a noob in the watercooling world but learning fast.


----------



## Constantine85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Constantine85*
> 
> Its funny you say that:
> RS 240 with single 240 rad and raystorm block:
> $129.99 + $72.99 - $202.98
> RX 240 with double 240 rad and Rasa block:
> $139.99 + $72.99 = $202.98
> Looks like I am going with the RX240 for now and will upgrade the block later. Regardless I will upgrading the fans. No one will know if the 3-4 degrees variance will be made up for in the trade off between the Rasa and Raystorm and and double and single rad respectively. The RX is in stock while the RS is on backorder from Frozen CPU. I could go to the link provided in the thread earlier and get 5% off the RS240 kit if needed be. But will probably go with the RX now. Frozen CPU normally gets to my place quickly since we are both on the east coast. Now its onto tubing and fasteners I want to get.
> Thank you both! I am a bit of a noob in the watercooling world but learning fast.


CORRECTION:
RS 240 with single 240 rad and raystorm block:
$129.99 + $72.99 - $202.98
RX 240 with double 240 rad and Rasa block:
$139.99 + $*62.99* = $202.98


----------



## Eeyore888

I would have gone with the Raystorm so you don't have to re-mount it and use more thermal paste


----------



## Eeyore888

I'm in a storm of JOY right now!!!!! Got my 8350 vishera running 1.525v 5ghz!!! And it's not going over 39c!!!!!!!!

(That is paper underneath the fittings to watch for leaks. I'm going to stay up all night to watch it lol)


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eeyore888*
> 
> I'm in a storm of JOY right now!!!!! Got my 8350 vishera running 1.525v 5ghz!!! And it's not going over 39c!!!!!!!!
> (That is paper underneath the fittings to watch for leaks. I'm going to stay up all night to watch it lol)


cool i take it that is the RX 240 radiator up there, and raystorm block?


----------



## Eeyore888

RS240* Rad and Raystorm block


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eeyore888*
> 
> RS240* Rad and Raystorm block


those are good temps for the rs240.

I have the rx240 and raystorm block. My temps are around 45-47c under full load 1.5 volts on my FX [email protected] 5ghz. I guess pile driver is just more power efficient, i dunno. Your ambient temps are likely to be lower, as mine are in high 20's


----------



## Eeyore888

It could just be a bad mount. I was only using multiplier, it went unstable after 25 minutes







but I don't care xD I just need to fiddle with it and I'm sure I'll hit 5ghz easy. Plus Vishera uses less power than Zambezi.


----------



## anubis1127

Those temps are so much cooler than my 3770k. Right around where my 8c / 16t Xeon performs on air.


----------



## Constantine85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eeyore888*
> 
> RS240* Rad and Raystorm block


Whelp, the Rasa block with RX240 rad is out of stock and the RS240 with Raystorm block is back in stock.. looks like a jump back to the Raystorm kit!


----------



## Eeyore888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> Those temps are so much cooler than my 3770k. Right around where my 8c / 16t Xeon performs on air.


They didn't stay that great for long lol I think it just because the jug of water I got was chilled slightly







now it's sitting at 1.47v 4.8ghz and doesn't go over 42c








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Constantine85*
> 
> Whelp, the Rasa block with RX240 rad is out of stock and the RS240 with Raystorm block is back in stock.. looks like a jump back to the Raystorm kit!


You won't be disappointed! If the temps aren't looking to great, try re-mounting the block. But be careful, the little clamps it comes with are cheap. I'm replacing mine with some aluminum ones and bloodshed red primochill adv lrt hose


----------



## Munajj

Hello ,
I am planning to buy an Intel i7 3770k processor and planning to use the Maximus V Formula Motherboard in a Corsair 600T.

And I want to watercool both the processor and motherboard only to make it overclock proof. Even though Watercooling the motherboard is not that necessary, I do want to watercool it.

I am a complete newbie at Water Cooling and would very much appreciate some help regarding it and what kit would be the best for me in this situation. I do not look forward to mod my 600T for this purpose. I was planning to buy XS PC RayStorm 750 RX240 WaterCooling Kit but I am not sure if it will fit the 600T or if it will be enough to cool the mobo and CPU.

Any kind of help would be very much appreciated .

Thank you!


----------



## Eeyore888

The mobo won't generate any heat really and probably won't increase your OC potential... The highest they ever get is around 27-30c (AMD anyway) at full load. The PCB and silicon can withstand way more heat than that. It would just be a hassle and waste of money. Just my point of view... Plus if you're new to water cooling, do you trust yourself to remove the heat sicks of your mobo? Also that's another fail point if you don't put your hoses on right...

I'm a paranoid water cooler


----------



## spidey81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munajj*
> 
> Hello ,
> I am planning to buy an Intel i7 3770k processor and planning to use the Maximus V Formula Motherboard in a Corsair 600T.
> And I want to watercool both the processor and motherboard only to make it overclock proof. Even though Watercooling the motherboard is not that necessary, I do want to watercool it.
> I am a complete newbie at Water Cooling and would very much appreciate some help regarding it and what kit would be the best for me in this situation. I do not look forward to mod my 600T for this purpose. I was planning to buy XS PC RayStorm 750 RX240 WaterCooling Kit but I am not sure if it will fit the 600T or if it will be enough to cool the mobo and CPU.
> Any kind of help would be very much appreciated .
> Thank you!


I assume you plan on using the built in VRM waterblock. The only issue you may encounter with this is that the barbs on the formula waterblock are 3/8" while the tubing included with the kit is 7/16" and the barbs are 1/2". You'll need to purchase extra 3/8" tubing and clamps (I personally use zip ties) as well as 3/8" barbs. I don't believe mixing tubing size like that will have any ill effect on flow. Just wanted to give you a heads up on any issues you may encounter! Good luck with your jump into the wonderfully addictive hobby of watercooling!


----------



## TwiggLe

Quick question will the RS or RX240 kits be enough to kill a 960T (OC'd to 4.2ghz) and a single HD7950? Or would i need a 2nd rad or bigger rad.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Quick question will the RS or RX240 kits be enough to kill a 960T (OC'd to 4.2ghz) and a single HD7950? Or would i need a 2nd rad or bigger rad.


The RX240 would be enough, but you wouldn't get the best temps on the CPU. You would probably want a bigger radiator such as a 360. Or add another radiator to the loop.


----------



## TwiggLe

Alright thanks







Mostly asking cause my MSI R7950 fans can be really loud... So was thinking of adding that to my kit once I get it after the first of the year.


----------



## FunBox

Has anyone here used this kit with a Fractal Design R4? How well does it perform and did you need to do any modding? I have removed all the HDD trays and am currently using a 5.25 Enclosure for my storage. Looking at this kit with some White primochill tubing.
EDIT, forgot to mention I'm looking at the Wider version of the 240 kit


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> Has anyone here used this kit with a Fractal Design R4? How well does it perform and did you need to do any modding? I have removed all the HDD trays and am currently using a 5.25 Enclosure for my storage. Looking at this kit with some White primochill tubing.
> EDIT, forgot to mention I'm looking at the Wider version of the 240 kit


The R4 has issues fitting radiators up top with certain motherboards (depending on the north side heatsink placement/size on them). You can, however, make use of the mesh venting holes up top as mounting holes too, to line it up further from the motherboard. It will also fit a 240 just fine up front with the intake fans. Performance with these kits is fine, but it also depends on how much you are trying to cool with a single 240mm radiator.


----------



## FunBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> The R4 has issues fitting radiators up top with certain motherboards (depending on the north side heatsink placement/size on them). You can, however, make use of the mesh venting holes up top as mounting holes too, to line it up further from the motherboard. It will also fit a 240 just fine up front with the intake fans. Performance with these kits is fine, but it also depends on how much you are trying to cool with a single 240mm radiator.


I'm planning on mounting it in front so motherboard clearance shouldn't be an issue. I am aiming for around 4.7Ghz . Do you perhaps have any pictures of this being done? Or maybe even a build log. Don't really want to sort through 1353 pages of this thread to maybe stumble across one


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> I'm planning on mounting it in front so motherboard clearance shouldn't be an issue. I am aiming for around 4.7Ghz . Do you perhaps have any pictures of this being done? Or maybe even a build log. Don't really want to sort through 1353 pages of this thread to maybe stumble across one


Yeah man, check out Bill Owens over at MNPC Tech. He actually did a guide on fitting a 280mm radiator in the front with very little modding! So you have even more options. Just search through his recent activity on his page, and you will find it. you can also google "Define R4 H100", and you will see what it looks like running a 240mm up front, as well as a couple people who put up videos of it. Have fun with the project though man, anytime I don't use CaseLabs cases, Fractal Design is what I go with. They are top notch quality man. You will love tinkering with that R4!


----------



## FunBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Yeah man, check out Bill Owens over at MNPC Tech. He actually did a guide on fitting a 280mm radiator in the front with very little modding! So you have even more options. Just search through his recent activity on his page, and you will find it. you can also google "Define R4 H100", and you will see what it looks like running a 240mm up front, as well as a couple people who put up videos of it. Have fun with the project though man, anytime I don't use CaseLabs cases, Fractal Design is what I go with. They are top notch quality man. You will love tinkering with that R4!


Sweet, thanks a bunch. He used a 280mm rad and I'm only trying to fit a 240mm so this should be a breeze. Will have to wait til after Christmas though seeing as all my funds were just spent getting a Crossover q27


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> Sweet, thanks a bunch. He used a 280mm rad and I'm only trying to fit a 240mm so this should be a breeze. Will have to wait til after Christmas though seeing as all my funds were just spent getting a Crossover q27


Glad to have helped man! If you need anything else regarding this in the future, feel free to PM me, and I will gladly help you out. Merry Christmas to you and your family, and good luck with the build in the new year.


----------



## TwiggLe

Can't decide between the RS240 or RS360 kit.. Right now it will only be for my 960T but I might add a GPU block at some point "MIGHT" is the key word there. and if I do it won't be for awhile.

Edit: Eh I ordered the RS240 from FrozenCPU. Hopefully it gets here saturday but with the weather most likely monday.


----------



## Eeyore888

You could always just grab an extra 120mm rad for the GPU. My RS240 keeps my FX 8350 at 42c load (1.5v 4.8ghz). I think if it had a better pump, the RS240 would do a better job.


----------



## TwiggLe

From the website it says it's got the newer Rev4 pump. No clue how much better or what was changed from the originals.
This is the exact item title..

XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 Extreme Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit (New Rev. 4 Pump Included)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16891/ex-wat-219/XSPC_Raystorm_750_RS240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html

Surprised they got it marked shipped already. I ordered at like 5:55pm EST (They are in new york) with 2-3 day shipping I'm crossing my fingers that it gets here friday (I'm in Ohio.) So I can get it setup and start leak testing it.


----------



## chronicfx

Probably been asked 1000 times but here goes... RS360 vs. RX240 for CPU only loop.. What gets better temps using the same fans. I am thinking of using XLF series xigmatek LED fans. Want to cool a de-lidded 3570k at 1.4 to 1.5 vcore.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Probably been asked 1000 times but here goes... RS360 vs. RX240 for CPU only loop.. What gets better temps using the same fans. I am thinking of using XLF series xigmatek LED fans. Want to cool a de-lidded 3570k at 1.4 to 1.5 vcore.


its not a simple answer.

For example the RX240 in a push/pull config will give you better results than a RS360 in push, or pull only. Otherwise the rs360 will perform better. It really depends on what your looking for.

(slim, high fin count radiators, with high speed fans) or(thick, low fin count radiators, with low speed fans)


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> From the website it says it's got the newer Rev4 pump. No clue how much better or what was changed from the originals.
> This is the exact item title..
> XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 Extreme Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit (New Rev. 4 Pump Included)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16891/ex-wat-219/XSPC_Raystorm_750_RS240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html
> Surprised they got it marked shipped already. I ordered at like 5:55pm EST (They are in new york) with 2-3 day shipping I'm crossing my fingers that it gets here friday (I'm in Ohio.) So I can get it setup and start leak testing it.


GO to the source ! http://www.xs-pc.com/products/pumps/x2o-750-dual-5-25%E2%80%9D-bay-reservoir-pump/


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> its not a simple answer.
> For example the RX240 in a push/pull config will give you better results than a RS360 in push, or pull only. Otherwise the rs360 will perform better. It really depends on what your looking for.
> (slim, high fin count radiators, with high speed fans) or(thick, low fin count radiators, with low speed fans)


Same xigmatek 120mm XLF LED fans on either one in push.

So I should save a few bucks and fit the RS360 for cpu only, my case has room for either?


----------



## spidey81

The RX series are made for lower speed fans (i.e. less air movement). If you are just using two fans and don't plan on adding more I'd go with the RX. Just be aware that fitting another set will be complicated at best due to it's thickness. Now if you plan on going push/pull and aren't concerned about noise as much, go with the RS. It's thinner thickness allows for a wider variety of fan configurations. But that's just my two cents on it.


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spidey81*
> 
> The RX series are made for lower speed fans (i.e. less air movement). If you are just using two fans and don't plan on adding more I'd go with the RX. Just be aware that fitting another set will be complicated at best due to it's thickness. Now if you plan on going push/pull and aren't concerned about noise as much, go with the RS. It's thinner thickness allows for a wider variety of fan configurations. But that's just my two cents on it.


Thanks Spidey. I was asking the RX240 (240) vs. and RS360 (360) difference. Because the RX is actually more money $179 vs. $160 for the RS360. If I used just the stock fans which kit would dissapate more heat? Is having the extra fan worth of real estate worth more than having twice the thickness?


----------



## spidey81

I ran across this review for the RS360 at martinsliquidlab. He says it's only shy of the RX360 by a marginal percentage. Granted, you need to run med/high speed fans i.e. 1500 rpm or so. The noise will be more, but it has similar cooling capacity to the RX360 if in push/pull with the right fans. Here's a thread of a 932/RX240. This should give you a good idea of the room you'll have.


----------



## Eeyore888

I'd go with the RS360. You get an extra fan on the rad, it's thinner so you have more room to bump up to a push pull... The RX240 will be thicker and might not fit a second set of fans... It doesn't seem to me that there would be much difference. The thicker rad needs higher static pressure vs the thinner, longer rad that requires less and has an extra fan to help cool.

Go for the RS360.


----------



## TwiggLe

My kit showed up in the mail this morning. Picked it up from the post office not knowing it was even there when I was on the way home from getting milk.... Now I don't want to go back out for distilled water since it's snowing pretty good and it's not worth taking my 3 kids out in just for that heh... bah!

Edit: But hey quick question..

Is there any reason I "COULDN'T" mount the rad on the outside top of my case then the fans in push on the inside top under it?

Edit #2: Ok so nm even if it would cause any issues it won't fit. The top cover doesn't have enough clearance for it.

But I might be able to if I wanted to get push/pull inside the case. But until I get a 2nd set of fans any recommendation on if I should do push or pull? Or does it really matter.


----------



## Eeyore888

Just a push will give you pretty good temps. If you have the room and the fans, then add a pull.


----------



## TwiggLe

Incoming lots of pictures..
















So far running in my living room where it's about 22c (71f) my idle temp is 19c. My basement/office is about 7-10 degree's cooler then my living room. So temps might be slightly cooler down there.

Ran Prime95 for about 30min and temps got to about 28c. Which is about 6-8 degrees cooler then my CM212+ was running. But that was also from my basement/office so will run Prime overnight when I get it moved back down there and see what happens.


----------



## Eeyore888

Huh... It just now occurred to me that I could have saved a lot of tubing by mounting my rad the other way... oops...


----------



## TwiggLe

LOL I debating on mounting it the other way (Glad I didn't cause I mis cut some tubing twice.) but it wouldn't have fit I don't think since the power cable at the top of the motherboard is already snug against the rad.


----------



## Eeyore888

What proc and specs?


----------



## TwiggLe

4.2ghz (Stock is 3.0ghz)


----------



## RJacobs28

Hi all,

I'm using a RASA 240 kit for my CPU but my GPU's are still running warm because they're so close together.

If i was to add a 200mm radiator behind my intake fan (Corsair 650D) and get some blocks on my cards (7970's), would the stock RASA pump/res combo be enough to drive the entire loop through 3 blocks and 440mm worth of rads?

Also will the 440mm be enough to cool all three?

Appreciate anyones input.


----------



## Eeyore888

Does the 750 pump heat up the water?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eeyore888*
> 
> Does the 750 pump heat up the water?


All pumps will heat up the water, it is just a matter of how much?

The 750 is a medium capacity pump, so the heat added is medium, not enough to worry about.


----------



## Eeyore888

then I got my loops wrong. I didn't know the pump heated the water, so it goes pump out/cpu/rad/res. Oh well, I've still yet to hit anything higher than 47c. Even just going crazy at 5.3ghz 1.588v doesn't go higher than that... although it BSODS after 30 min


----------



## ginger_nuts

Becoz we are talking about a pump/res. combo, loop order makes no difference.

In a non-combo setup, the only thing to have in order is the res. feeding the pump.

The water / coolant is able to absorb a lot more heat. This is why you can run the blocks in series. I have cpu>gpu1>gpu2>res.>pump>rad.1>rad.2 with no difference in temps.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

XSPC RX240 with and extra Black ICE GTX Extreme 240 that i got on the bay for 50 bucks that i have in the top with noctua nf-f12..

GPU block is a 79x0 Heatkiller,, oh my i freaking love that block...

The 750 pump is having no issues or noise problems thru my configuration..

Everything on a corsair 300r modded XD


----------



## Eeyore888

Sweetness.

You should hook a piece of wire to your card, to keep it from sagging. It scares me when I see hanging cards with a pound of copper attached lol


----------



## RJacobs28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm using a RASA 240 kit for my CPU but my GPU's are still running warm because they're so close together.
> If i was to add a 200mm radiator behind my intake fan (Corsair 650D) and get some blocks on my cards (7970's), would the stock RASA pump/res combo be enough to drive the entire loop through 3 blocks and 440mm worth of rads?
> Also will the 440mm be enough to cool all three?
> Appreciate anyones input.


Bump.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> Bump.


The stock pump will work fine. However that doesn't mean you will not see a benefit from upgrading the pump.

Im running the stock 750 pump through the 240 Rx radiator, and a Alphacool UT45 280 radiator. I am only cooling the cpu and my single 7950. Upgrading the pump will net some temperature drops.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm using a RASA 240 kit for my CPU but my GPU's are still running warm because they're so close together.
> If i was to add a 200mm radiator behind my intake fan (Corsair 650D) and get some blocks on my cards (7970's), would the stock RASA pump/res combo be enough to drive the entire loop through 3 blocks and 440mm worth of rads?
> Also will the 440mm be enough to cool all three?
> Appreciate anyones input.


You should be able to run on the 750 pump, but you should run the cards paralleled. Meaning to have two of the same blocks (or at least blocks with equal restriction) This will reduce the over all loop restriction greatly.

Also try to reduce the amount of tubing you use to a minimum, whilst also trying to not use any (or as little as possible) 90 and 45 degree bends.

And the rad's you mentioned will be fine, 120mm rad per block plus 120mm rad for good measure. You already have a 240mm, which covers the two GPU's then the 200mm rad for the CPU + extra = fine









Oh and loop order makes no difference to temp's.


----------



## iandroo888

Has anyone ever had this happen?! any idea why it happened? the separation of dye areas

Pic Fixed*


----------



## chronicfx

Hi guys! Was wondering about getting an XSPC kit. My questions:

1) If I buy an xspc complete kit how long do you feel it will last (years)? The rev.4 pump kit? The d5 variant kit?

2) Do you feel the D5 pump is so much better to warrant an extra $100?

3) I currently have an NH-D14 and run a 3570k (de-lidded with coolabs pro die and ihs) at 4.9ghz and 1.42v that loads in prime95 at 74 degrees hottest core, what kind of temperature drop can I expect from these kits?

Thanks hopefully you can help me to decide which kit to buy. I am between getting an RS360 with the rev.4 pump for ~$160 or the ex240 with the d5 pump for $245. Which is the better choice, I plan to do CPU only for the time being.


----------



## spidey81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Hi guys! Was wondering about getting an XSPC kit. My questions:
> 
> 1) If I buy an xspc complete kit how long do you feel it will last (years)? The rev.4 pump kit? The d5 variant kit?
> 
> 2) Do you feel the D5 pump is so much better to warrant an extra $100?
> 
> 3) I currently have an NH-D14 and run a 3570k (de-lidded with coolabs pro die and ihs) at 4.9ghz and 1.42v that loads in prime95 at 74 degrees hottest core, what kind of temperature drop can I expect from these kits?
> 
> Thanks hopefully you can help me to decide which kit to buy. I am between getting an RS360 with the rev.4 pump for ~$160 or the ex240 with the d5 pump for $245. Which is the better choice, I plan to do CPU only for the time being.


Personally I'd spend up now on the D5 kit. The extra pumping power will be worth it if you plan to add extra blocks down the road. I personally started with the Rasa 750 RX360 kit and have since replaced the stock pump/res with the D5 vinyl bay res and variable pump. I'm running a Raystorm now as well as two 6970's with EK blocks and added a RX240. There's not a ton of restriction, but I have the power if I ever need it.

There's also the fact that you'll have a lot more options to reuse the pump if the bay res doesn't suit you or you decide to go with a tube res later. So essentially, the D5 version gives you a lot more options as far as adding different components or rearranging your rig to your liking.


----------



## Gainward

Hi guys,

I have a XSPC 360 RS radiator with 3 fans on it, i have set them (the fans) on very low RPM to get as low noise as possible
and as far as i know, the RS series needs very high air flow to give you good performance

so i've been thinking about getting a XSPC EX360 Radiator instead of the one i have to get better performance with my fans.
what do you guys think ?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have a XSPC 360 RS radiator with 3 fans on it, i have set them (the fans) on very low RPM to get as low noise as possible
> and as far as i know, the RS series needs very high air flow to give you good performance
> 
> so i've been thinking about getting a XSPC EX360 Radiator instead of the one i have to get better performance with my fans.
> what do you guys think ?


In this order

RS-High Speed Fans
EX-Medium Speed Fans
RX-Low Speed fans

This doesn't mean you cannot put High speed fans on the RX, or Low speed fans on the RS. It means means the radiators are tuned in terms of fin count per inch for these types of fans. I Personally use the RX240 with SP120'[email protected] When I run at 12 volts, the performance doesn't really change that much. Only a 1-3C drop in temps. I am only using Push atm.


----------



## Elite GunnerX

So i'm planing to buy a RX240 kit and had some questions about fitting it to also water cool the motherboard VRMS.
The asrock oc formula has built in waterblock with barbs on the board

I'm about to do a custom loop and if i add this in, because the barbs are so much smaller it might create and choke point yes?
I would also use something like this to make it possible to connect to the barbs on the board.
Link

Don't know if this will negatively effect temps/pump efficiency...

Thoughts?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elite GunnerX*
> 
> So i'm planing to buy a RX240 kit and had some questions about fitting it to also water cool the motherboard VRMS.
> The asrock oc formula has built in waterblock with barbs on the board
> 
> I'm about to do a custom loop and if i add this in, because the barbs are so much smaller it might create and choke point yes?
> I would also use something like this to make it possible to connect to the barbs on the board.
> Link
> 
> Don't know if this will negatively effect temps/pump efficiency...
> 
> Thoughts?


Going from 1/2" to 3/8" is only a minor reduction (minor flow restriction). So all should be good still.









^^^^This will stand even more true if the kit your getting is the D5 pump.

As for using the Asrock block is another thing, I believe the block is a pretty ordinary performing block, so it would probably be worth the







to get a better performing block, to which you could keep all the tubing at 1/2" and not have to worry about any restriction in flow.


----------



## BurgerKing

http://www.overclock.net/t/1359841/buying-xspc-240-system-i-need-your-help

if any of you could help me out, i would greatly appreciate it

trying to upgrade to XSPC myself and i just returned a 400$ order in which ill be spending 180$ on a case and looking for a nice water cooling system to invest in


----------



## BurgerKing

im actually buying a case like yours
and the xspc like yours

please pm me if you can help me out with a few questions


----------



## jmoorez2001

count me in plz rsx with razor and dual rx360 radiators on a 8350 8 core


----------



## The Sandman

Looking to upgrade from a RS360/Raystorm to RX360 and looking to add a mobo full coverage wb.
Would you recommend a nickle or copper wb to run with the Raystorm.
Have had great luck with distilled water & kill coil and also wonder if nickel is recommended does it require coolant rather than distilled water?
Would there be any performance differences between the two?
These are the options currently available
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17961/ex-blc-1389/EK_ASUS_Crosshair_V_Formula-Z_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_Acetal_CSQ_EK-FB_ASUS_C5F-Z_-_Acetal.html?tl=g30c89s147
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17962/ex-blc-1390/EK_ASUS_Crosshair_V_Formula-Z_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_Acetal_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FB_ASUS_C5F-Z_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g30c89s147


----------



## braindrain

Hey guys. I haven't read the whole thread yet, on page 37 atm, but I just wanted to check. What fans are people using on the EX280? Decent static pressure 120mm fans are pretty common these days but I don't know of any 140mm fans specifically known for having high static pressure.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindrain*
> 
> Hey guys. I haven't read the whole thread yet, on page 37 atm, but I just wanted to check. What fans are people using on the EX280? Decent static pressure 120mm fans are pretty common these days but I don't know of any 140mm fans specifically known for having high static pressure.


there are no decent 140mm options really. The best option at the moment is to just use 120mm to 140mm adapters


----------



## braindrain

Hmmm. Not sure I'll have the space for that. I found these fans and they seem pretty good so I'll probably give em a go.

http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/accessories/spectre-pwm


----------



## Tomalak

I've been reading all these posts on water cooling and I'm still confused lol, there's just so much to take in.

Now, if I chose to go with this:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=33549

in my next Ivy (or perhaps Haswell build, dunno if CPU blocks will be compatible), what exactly do I chose from these optional stuff:

1. if I chose white or black 6.5 tubing, what size of fittings do I want?
2. Am I right in assuming I can simply buy distilled water locally instead of using a coolant?
3. Do I need a rad stand, or can I simply mount the included rad in or on top of HAF 932?

4. Also, if I decide to add a single GPU to the loop, can it be done by using components from this kit, or do I need to buy something else (GPU block ofc, I mean additional tubing/fittings whatever)?

5. And lastly - if all I want to cool is a CPU and a single GPU (7970/690/Titan) should I go with a cheaper kit or is this one ok?

Thank you for helping a totally confused guy!


----------



## kizwan

1. Size of the fittings depend on the size of the tube (ID & OD)

2. Yeah, you can use distilled water. Coolant also based on distilled water. If the water block (CPU/GPU/MB) is nickel, then you might need coolant with anti-corrosion.

3. Depend on the case. Look like you can fit 360mm rad in HAF 932 according to the spec.

4. You need extra fittings & tubes.

5. Depend on the budget. The one you linked is good for what you're going to water cool.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> I've been reading all these posts on water cooling and I'm still confused lol, there's just so much to take in.
> 
> Now, if I chose to go with this:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=33549
> 
> in my next Ivy (or perhaps Haswell build, dunno if CPU blocks will be compatible), what exactly do I chose from these optional stuff:
> 
> 1. if I chose white or black 6.5 tubing, what size of fittings do I want?
> 2. Am I right in assuming I can simply buy distilled water locally instead of using a coolant?
> 3. Do I need a rad stand, or can I simply mount the included rad in or on top of HAF 932?
> 
> 4. Also, if I decide to add a single GPU to the loop, can it be done by using components from this kit, or do I need to buy something else (GPU block ofc, I mean additional tubing/fittings whatever)?
> 
> 5. And lastly - if all I want to cool is a CPU and a single GPU (7970/690/Titan) should I go with a cheaper kit or is this one ok?
> 
> Thank you for helping a totally confused guy!


1: you pick the fitting size you want and they should give you the appropriate tubing size.
2: yes, distilled water with a silver kill coil will work fine.
3: I believe you should be able to mount it in the top of the HAF 932, but it's been a while since I've looked at the HAF cases. I have seen people put triple rads up there so it should be doable.

4: You should have plenty of tubing as long as you don't go crazy with it. You will probably need a couple fittings for the gpu block assuming it doesn't come with any. But otherwise you won't need anything else besides the gpu block.

5: If you are considering a 690 or a Titan I would stick with this kit. The pump is great and will allow you to add extra stuff to the loop later without worries. You are already planning on adding a gpu. Usually you want at least 120mm of rad per block. If you considering the dual gpu 690 or the super high end titan you probably want to stay with the RX360. I mean, you are getting into water cooling for the best temperatures, so don't try to skimp and end up hurting yourself.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> I've been reading all these posts on water cooling and I'm still confused lol, there's just so much to take in.
> 
> Now, if I chose to go with this:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=33549
> 
> in my next Ivy (or perhaps Haswell build, dunno if CPU blocks will be compatible), what exactly do I chose from these optional stuff:
> 
> 1. if I chose white or black 6.5 tubing, what size of fittings do I want?
> 2. Am I right in assuming I can simply buy distilled water locally instead of using a coolant?
> 3. Do I need a rad stand, or can I simply mount the included rad in or on top of HAF 932?
> 
> 4. Also, if I decide to add a single GPU to the loop, can it be done by using components from this kit, or do I need to buy something else (GPU block ofc, I mean additional tubing/fittings whatever)?
> 
> 5. And lastly - if all I want to cool is a CPU and a single GPU (7970/690/Titan) should I go with a cheaper kit or is this one ok?
> 
> Thank you for helping a totally confused guy!


I can't answer this one as I'm not sure what the kit comes with. They use to come with 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD tubing, not sure with the newer kits.
I've never run anything but distilled and a kill coil.
If the rad can fit inside great, other wise consider an external mount.
To add any component you'll need additional fittings of course and some tubing yes.
This is a VERY nice kit. I'm still running my original pump setup (1.5 yrs old) and it's not near as nice as this kits and my system (cpu and mobo) doesn't have any temp issues. You could get by just fine performance wise with a lesser pump but staying with the Raystorm and RX360 is a good way to go.

That's my


----------



## Tomalak

Thank you all so much for helping me!

I just need to clarify something regarding fittings. If you look at the link - they include 2m or 6.5' of tubing. Now, it gives me three options for fittings:
1. 7/16x5/8
2. 1/2x3/4
3. 3/8x5/8

I'm not exactly sure which one I want and why?









Plus the imperial measures on everything are not helping.

EDIT: typos

EDIT2: I understand they will match the tubing to fittings I choose, but which ones do I want?

*EDIT3: to further elaborate (in before EDIT999) is there an advantage to using larger tubing (1/2), like better flow, easier on the pump, better for this particular pump, etc?*


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> Thank you all so much for helping me!
> 
> I just need to clarify something regarding fittings. If you look at the link - they include 2m or 6.5' of tubing. Now, it gives me three options for fittings:
> 1. 7/16x5/8
> 2. 1/2x3/4
> 3. 3/8x5/8
> 
> I'm not exactly sure which one I want and why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus the imperial measures on everything are not helping.
> 
> EDIT: typos
> 
> EDIT2: I understand they will match the tubing to fittings I choose, but which ones do I want?
> 
> *EDIT3: to further elaborate (in before EDIT999) is there an advantage to using larger tubing (1/2), like better flow, easier on the pump, better for this particular pump, etc?*


When looking at tubing I always recommend Primochill Advanced LRT (most any color available)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17583/ex-tub-1572/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_716ID_x_58_OD_-_Clear_PFLEXA-758.html?tl=g30c99s809

Always had good luck with LRT as no signs of plasticizing (actually stays clear with no residue build up).
As for size, it depends on what you like. Some like the larger diameters look, while I like the 7/16" look myself plus there seems to be a bigger selection to choose from. Performance wise I doubt you'll see any difference.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Size of tubing has no effect what so ever on flow or temps.

The thicker the wall on tubing the better the bend radius.

I personally went 3/8" just becoz it is excellent are bending.

That new Primochill tubing seems to be the best out so far.

Oh and distilled water with silver is the best coolant going.


----------



## Creator

New loop. Now have a RX360 and RX240 radiator working together. With Titan underwater and overclocked, there is so much heat coming out of this case now. The blue RAM sticks out now, so maybe one day I'll get around to removing the spreaders.


----------



## Hogwasher

CPU water cooled and overclocked to 4.8Ghz. Now need GPU water blocks then I'll finally be close to done


----------



## japanesegorilla

Very nice. Love how clean that setup is.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> CPU water cooled and overclocked to 4.8Ghz. Now need GPU water blocks then I'll finally be close to done


After you get GPU block, then you'll need additional radiator, then ....


----------



## Hogwasher

Yeah that is planned as well as some orange and black fans


----------



## kizwan

Cougar Vortex PWM CF-V12HP fans suit your requirement because it come in black frame & orange blade.


----------



## Gainward

Hi guys,

I've been wondering about this pump

http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Nylon-Dual-525-Reservoir-Inc-Laing-D5-VarioTacho-Black_29802.html

is it the same as the Swiftech MCP665 ? The specs looks the same to me


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've been wondering about this pump
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Nylon-Dual-525-Reservoir-Inc-Laing-D5-VarioTacho-Black_29802.html
> 
> is it the same as the Swiftech MCP665 ? The specs looks the same to me


Yup, it's the same.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16144/ex-res-372/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Black_Reservoir_-_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s152


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Yup, it's the same.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16144/ex-res-372/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Black_Reservoir_-_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s152


Thanks!


----------



## KonigGeist

I've had my RS240 kit for about a year and a half now. For about a month after I got it, I had some rattling, but when I contacted XSPC they said that it wasn't an abnormal noise and that it should go away within a few weeks, which it did.

Unfortunately, the noise has started to come back intermittently during the past few weeks. It's not constant or anything; it seems to only start rattling towards the end of the night when my computer is being used the most, but the noise will usually be gone/greatly diminished by the morning.

I haven't taken the loop apart in about 6 months, so there shouldn't be any air introduced into the system. What could be causing this?


----------



## TwiggLe

My XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 w/EK-FC7950 waterblock 45c load temps on both GPU and CPU


----------



## mironccr345

Those are nice load temps. What's your ambient temps?


----------



## PCModderMike

Yea good load temps for sure, XSPC doing work.


----------



## mironccr345

For sure, I would get some 90 fighting to clean up the loop. Other than that, it's looking pretty good.


----------



## TwiggLe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Those are nice load temps. What's your ambient temps?


Temps in my basement (where my office is) typically are about 15 degrees lower then the rest of the house. So it's about 50c or so down here. But I have never actually checked though.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> Temps in my basement (where my office is) typically are about 15 degrees lower then the rest of the house. So it's about 50c or so down here. But I have never actually checked though.


Whoa, 50C in the basement huh? So about 122 degrees Fahrenheit, how do you stand the heat?! And that's cooler than the rest of the house?


----------



## TwiggLe

Yeah I'm an idiot sorry. About 50F in the basement I would guess. Thanks for calling me out on that


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> Yeah I'm an idiot sorry. About 50F in the basement I would guess. Thanks for calling me out on that


Brrrrr, no way I could stand staying in those temps constant. Dislike it bad enough when temps get near 70F or below.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> Temps in my basement (where my office is) typically are about 15 degrees lower then the rest of the house. So it's about 50c or so down here. But I have never actually checked though.


I was about to say....I wonder what you're house temps. were.


----------



## TwiggLe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I was about to say....I wonder what you're house temps. were.


The thermostat in the house is set to 70F during the winter and AC is set to 68F in the summer.

During the winter my basement gets super cold. I usually wear my hoodie and have my slippers/blanket for long periods down there. Summer it's nice and comfy.


----------



## ginger_nuts

No wonder you Americans can boast such low load temps, the coldest I see my digital thermometer (lab quality as well, not a cheap n nasty) in my room is about 14c which is like 57F.

And that is maybe only once or twice a year


----------



## Gainward

Hi guys,

I'm thinking about changing my res+pump to Alphacool VPP655 pump + XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir

Link to the res:

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-D5-Dual-Bay-Reservoir-for-ONE-Laing-D5-Pump-New-Product-pid-15903.html

I'm just worried about the res, cuz some people are complaining about this res leaking after 1 or 2 weeks









Is it true or not?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm thinking about changing my res+pump to Alphacool VPP655 pump + XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir
> 
> Link to the res:
> 
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-D5-Dual-Bay-Reservoir-for-ONE-Laing-D5-Pump-New-Product-pid-15903.html
> 
> I'm just worried about the res, cuz some people are complaining about this res leaking after 1 or 2 weeks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it true or not?


I haven't read anything complaints about the res leaking. Sources?


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I haven't read anything complaints about the res leaking. Sources?


I've read some comments on youtube,
I really like this res but i'm worried


----------



## Creator

I've been using that res for 6-7 months without issues.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I have heard / read people having issues with vibration on their cases, but that is barley something you could blame solely XSPC on. Meaning it is probably a combination of both the case manu. and XSPC.

But have never heard / read anything about them leaking. The older 750 ones are made strong. XSPC claim they individually test every one.


----------



## The Sandman

For safety sake I'm thinking about replacing my original XSPC RS360 kit's pump/res purchased 1-27-11 just before all the noisy pumps started showing up. I've already upgraded to a Raystorm wb, replaced the RS360 with a RX360, added a NB/VRM wb and thinking before trouble comes my way (not sure on life expectancy) it's time to upgrade/replace the pump. I first looked at these,
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16259/ex-pmp-197/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_-_D5_Vario_Included.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16144/ex-res-372/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Black_Reservoir_-_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s152#blank
I have to say I have limited knowledge about pumps when it comes to which would perform best and still be quiet. I've read the D5 may be the way to go but what version?
Will upgrading to a D5 improve temps?

After considering I have a RS360 laying around I wonder would it be worth it to add it into my current setup?
If so I'd have to get away from the dual bay pump/res setup as the RS360 would be mounted in the front of my case and I'd need to look at something else for a pump/res. If adding the RS is a positive move I'm looking for suggestions on what to run for a internal pump/res.


----------



## chronicfx

Guys. My v4 pump has been whisper quiet for for the three weeks i owned it up until last night when it started buzzing. Its screwed in tight, i cant make it stop buzzing by holding it or pushing in the sides of the case with my hands (dampening in case it is case vibration), i am guessing it is flux or air, i took the step to drAin the loop and refill it with fresh distilled water and did see some flux come out (i did flush everything before i installed three weeks ago by hooking it up to my sink tap for 20 minutes inlet to out and then out to in with each piece but i guess i didnt get everything. THe buzzing is still there, i tipped the case every which direction even to the point of letting some air back into the pump and repeated this several times to see if jarring it with a sudden rush if water would help. i cycled it on and off a dozen times and now i am sitting outside at a wedding while it is pumping until i get home. What else should i do?


----------



## atibbo69

What length are the screws that come with the kit? 1 1/4 ?


----------



## chronicfx

There are sev diff types of screws


----------



## japanesegorilla

I feel kind of sad, by the end of this week I don't think I will have any part of my original X20 750 RS240 kit left in my loop. I already replaced the pump/res and the RS240 rad, and the fittings went long ago. I never even used the fans that came with it. All that I have left at the moment is the Rasa cpu block but that will be gone soon as well (replaced by a Raystorm that I had no intention of buying but that is a different story).


----------



## TwiggLe

I just placed an order for the RS120 rad. Will be adding that to my RayStorm RS240 kit since i added my GPU block I figured this would finish out my setup for the most part.


----------



## Gainward

Unfortunately, My XSPC 750 pump is dead.. Any suggestions ?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> Unfortunately, My XSPC 750 pump is dead.. Any suggestions ?


Is it under warranty? If not either look at the D5 bay res or a new pump and res is in order


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Is it under warranty? If not either look at the D5 bay res or a new pump and res is in order


I don't think it is.
And yeah i'll probably go with a D5, no more XSPC pumps


----------



## alancsalt

I've got four functioning XSPC pumps in the room right now, and one Laing DDC 3.25 12V 18W Version. I've had one XSPC fail, and one Laing. The enemy of both is pumping air. Avoid that like the plague. I feel the XSPC pumps do quite well.

The only XSPC pump fail got replaced under warranty. It was a growler.
The Laing was just out of warranty.


----------



## Gainward

XSPC pumps are just not reliable IMO. It worked fine for few months and now it's dead without any reason ...


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> XSPC pumps are just not reliable IMO. It worked fine for few months and now it's dead without any reason ...


My pump went over 2 years with no problems in my pc. 1 year of that it was running my CPU, RX360, RX120, And EK 6990 WB with no problems, And a year without the 6990 WB.

The only reason I switched it out is I didn't think it would push my 2 670 WB's every well


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> XSPC pumps are just not reliable IMO. It worked fine for few months and now it's dead without any reason ...


That is a very big claim







Especially on something which has been sold and used for so long and by so many people.


----------



## carlhil2

I have a water cooling question, ,....will the tube circled in red, be good enough to have there as a drain while I do a leak test for several hours? ...also, being that my rad is only a RS360, what is the best 140mm rad that I can buy for when I add my Titan to the loop?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> I have a water cooling question, ,....will the tube circled in red, be good enough to have there as a drain while I do a leak test for several hours? ...also, being that my rad is only a RS360, what is the best 140mm rad that I can buy for when I add my Titan to the loop?


Someone maybe with more experience might help, but I personally think the RS360 you have will be fine for the 2600k and Titan.

As for looking for "The Best" 140mm rad go the EX560







Mind you, you will need a *BIG* case.

And Yes!!! that tube will be fine as a drain line


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Someone maybe with more experience might help, but I personally think the RS360 you have will be fine for the 2600k and Titan.
> 
> As for looking for "The Best" 140mm rad go the EX560
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind you, you will need a *BIG* case.
> 
> And Yes!!! that tube will be fine as a drain line


Thanks, also, I am speaking of ONE 140mm rad to fit on my exhaust on a HAF 932 case,......


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> Thanks, also, I am speaking of ONE 140mm rad to fit on my exhaust on a HAF 932 case,......


IMO, you should go with a full thick rad instead (RX360), you will end up having more space and MUCH better looking case.
The RX360 is fully capable of cooling a CPU and a GPU


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That is a very big claim
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially on something which has been sold and used for so long and by so many people.


It's not like all of them are bad or something but it's something that happened to quite few people (from what i saw on some forums).
But XSPC have good warranty on their products and they send you a new pump if you're having any kind of problems with it, unfortunately i don't think this will happen on my case because my pump is not totally dead but it's pushing very very little water (You can barley see the water moving) , my CPU hit's 60's on STOCK clocks. Obviously XSPC need a proof to send me a new pump, which is something i don't know how to do. That's why i'm gonna have to get a new pump.
I want to have something that i can rely on for a long time, that's why i'm gonna go with a D5


----------



## alancsalt

My one dud pump still worked. It was just noisy - a "growler". They replaced it, no questions asked, which is pretty good for Australia.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> It's not like all of them are bad or something but it's something that happened to quite few people (from what i saw on some forums).
> But XSPC have good warranty on their products and they send you a new pump if you're having any kind of problems with it, unfortunately i don't think this will happen on my case because my pump is not totally dead but it's pushing very very little water (You can barley see the water moving) , my CPU hit's 60's on STOCK clocks. Obviously XSPC need a proof to send me a new pump, which is something i don't know how to do. That's why i'm gonna have to get a new pump.
> I want to have something that i can rely on for a long time, that's why i'm gonna go with a D5


Hay, send them an email, they will soon let you know what the deal is. What do you have to loose? Maybe a few minutes on an email. You will not be any worse off.


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainward*
> 
> It's not like all of them are bad or something but it's something that happened to quite few people (from what i saw on some forums).
> But XSPC have good warranty on their products and they send you a new pump if you're having any kind of problems with it, unfortunately i don't think this will happen on my case because my pump is not totally dead but it's pushing very very little water (You can barley see the water moving) , my CPU hit's 60's on STOCK clocks. Obviously XSPC need a proof to send me a new pump, which is something i don't know how to do. That's why i'm gonna have to get a new pump.
> I want to have something that i can rely on for a long time, that's why i'm gonna go with a D5


Give it a try. Xspc has very friendly and great customer service. I dont see why you couldnt send them a video of your pump filling a gallon bucket timed and calculated to not hit the mark of 750 lph. You should be able to fill a gallon bucket in about 20 seconds. You can also attach the vid to the email instead of uploading it first. Just be aware of the size if the video.


----------



## Danger-Close

A quick question. I'm using the x20 raystorm rs240 kit. gonna add 2x ek universal bridge edition gpu waterblock, a CSQ parallel link and a alphacool 240 monsta rad... will the pump be able to work?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danger-Close*
> 
> A quick question. I'm using the x20 raystorm rs240 kit. gonna add 2x ek universal bridge edition gpu waterblock, a CSQ parallel link and a alphacool 240 monsta rad... will the pump be able to work?


No, no where near powerful enough









Just a side note, running parallel will reduce your restriction, but it will also reduce your flow through both.


----------



## ebduncan

you will likely need to upgrade the pump.

I am about to try a Alphacool XT45 (280mm) + RX 240+ cpu block+ gpu block. All on the 750 pump. I did buy a D5 pump but its staying in the box unless I have to use it. I'll let you know if the 750 pump works, as our setups will be similar, just you will have a extra gpu block.


----------



## Danger-Close

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> you will likely need to upgrade the pump.
> 
> I am about to try a Alphacool XT45 (280mm) + RX 240+ cpu block+ gpu block. All on the 750 pump. I did buy a D5 pump but its staying in the box unless I have to use it. I'll let you know if the 750 pump works, as our setups will be similar, just you will have a extra gpu block.


you're doing it now?


----------



## ebduncan

Not yet, On tuesday i will be.

I am currently just cooling the cpu with the rx240 kit. I will be expanding it soon as my goodies come in the mail on tuesday


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> you will likely need to upgrade the pump.
> 
> I am about to try a Alphacool XT45 (280mm) + RX 240+ cpu block+ gpu block. All on the 750 pump. I did buy a D5 pump but its staying in the box unless I have to use it. I'll let you know if the 750 pump works, as our setups will be similar, just you will have a extra gpu block.


You should be fine, I have seen others running CPU + GPU + 2x Rads off the x750. They also quoted some good temps.

It helps as blocks of today (both cpu and gpu) are far less restrictive then the older ones.

Please keep us posted


----------



## jmoorez2001

im running the 750 on one cpu and dual RX360 rad's in my amd 8350 overclocked to 3.8 and tempts are mid 20's sometimes low 30'sC


----------



## JustRoland1969

Just joined. Glad I found this thread. Has helped me a lot. Running a X20 750 pump on an 8350 overclocked to 4.3 and have temps in the high 20's to low 30's. love this little pump/res combo. Quiet, efficient, and does what it's supposed to do.

Now a question. I currently have it on just the CPU. It seems to be running smoothly. I want to do a water block on a motherboard I'm getting. Will this pump handle both the CPU and the chipset block? The chipset block is by EK if that makes a difference.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustRoland1969*
> 
> Just joined. Glad I found this thread. Has helped me a lot. Running a X20 750 pump on an 8350 overclocked to 4.3 and have temps in the high 20's to low 30's. love this little pump/res combo. Quiet, efficient, and does what it's supposed to do.
> 
> Now a question. I currently have it on just the CPU. It seems to be running smoothly. I want to do a water block on a motherboard I'm getting. Will this pump handle both the CPU and the chipset block? The chipset block is by EK if that makes a difference.


What rad do you have? will you be adding another rad?

Basically as I mentioned above, the pump is good enough for two blocks and two rads.

For some more insight into pump sizing and basic water cooling maths, check the links in my sig







People with far more time then I and even more knowledge wrote them


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> you will likely need to upgrade the pump.
> 
> I am about to try a Alphacool XT45 (280mm) + RX 240+ cpu block+ gpu block. All on the 750 pump. I did buy a D5 pump but its staying in the box unless I have to use it. I'll let you know if the 750 pump works, as our setups will be similar, just you will have a extra gpu block.


I built a buddy a rig and it's running a 420, 280, a cpu block and two 570 blocks. The 750 pump worked fine and great temps to boot.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I built a buddy a rig and it's running a 420, 280, a cpu block and two 570 blocks. The 750 pump worked fine and great temps to boot.


Do you have details of the blocks used? I am curious thanks


----------



## JustRoland1969

_"What rad do you have? will you be adding another rad?"_

I have the kit RS240. but I'm looking at the RX 360.

_Basically as I mentioned above, the pump is good enough for two blocks and two rads._

This is good. I was afraid I was going to have to shell out some more dough. I like this set up and it's sooooo quiet.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustRoland1969*
> 
> _"What rad do you have? will you be adding another rad?"_
> 
> I have the kit RS240. but I'm looking at the RX 360.
> 
> _Basically as I mentioned above, the pump is good enough for two blocks and two rads._
> 
> This is good. I was afraid I was going to have to shell out some more dough. I like this set up and it's sooooo quiet.


As mentioned you'll be fine.
I just swapped out my 2.5 yr old 750 pump/res and it's been running cpu, EK full cover block and RX360 with an OC'd 8350 listed in sig rig.


----------



## JustRoland1969

Thanks for All the advise and the help on this one. Was really concerned I made a mistake with the RS240 rad kit after reading some of the post in this owners group thread.


----------



## ebduncan

Well I got the second radiator installed, but i was sent the wrong GPU block for my card (7970 block) instead of the 7950 block I ordered.

The 750 pump is doing just fine with the 2 radiators, and cpu, will add the gpu block when i get it.


----------



## ginger_nuts

^^^ What coolant is that? Can't tell if it is dirty water or actually coloured.


----------



## ebduncan

its primochill blood red coolant, the tubing is clear, i used old sections and had new sections, hence the different colors ;-)

The tubing actually leached the color out the coolant, and went from clear to reddish opaque .


----------



## jmoorez2001

yea mine did the same thing but with blue coolant and now it looks green in my water lines lol but oh well i added soem UV red to it and its started to loo more red now


----------



## JustRoland1969

well the motherboard chipset block couldn't have been anymore easier. The X20 750 is starting to make some noises though. not irritating just a low rattling sound every once in awhile. It started happening when I bumped up to 4.7ghz on my CPU. does heat affect these pumps or am I looking at having to get a new one.


----------



## Chomuco

XSPC Rasa x20 750 rad slin 240


----------



## Gainward

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> XSPC Rasa x20 750 rad slin 240


Looks nice!


----------



## Danger-Close

[/URL]

Some update of my rig. Still waitig for my ek xtx 240


----------



## JustRoland1969

Need some help here. After adding my chipset water block and refilling my res my pump started making growly sounds. Is this normal ,or a sign I did something wrong, or worse yet, the pump is going to go out. It's an X20 750.


----------



## alancsalt

Well, they can be growly from new, but otherwise suddenly making that sound can be down to letting it pump air. They don't like it. There may be other causes, but I've done that one....


----------



## JustRoland1969

so do I let it pump it out or just say to heck with it and go new? Was looking to upgrade anyways but really love this little combo pump.


----------



## alancsalt

The supplier replaced mine... that's in Australia.. you still got warranty?


----------



## ebduncan

Mine makes some noise every now and then, it goes away on its own. Been doing it for well over a year now, so just let it ride out if doesn't bother you.


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Mine makes some noise every now and then, it goes away on its own. Been doing it for well over a year now, so just let it ride out if doesn't bother you.


I replaced mine too and the new one is silent. As for the old one, it would get loud and i would lay the case on its side (motherboard face down) and jam the case hard enough to make the pump "gurgle" and it would usually quiet down again. But my noise kept coming back after a few days. My replacement hasn't shown the same pattern.


----------



## JustRoland1969

Syphoned out the res and refilled it. Seems to have worked a little. still a low growl though. Contacted XSPC to see if they can either replace it or tell me tough luck. I've read other threads that they seem agreeable as long as you send a video of the problem. We will see.


----------



## JustRoland1969

XSPC was a joy to work with as long as you had the video and the invoice and the white label on the side of the Res. A lady named Flora was a big help and told me my new res/pump combo was shipping out from FrozenCPU. Check the email from FrozenCPU and it's on it's way. So YAY me.







Now the bad news. I ordered a new res/pump combo that wasn't XSPC before this all transpired. Patience is not my strong suit especially with 2500$ on the line. So I will not be bother you folks anymore sorry if I was a bother. Thanks for your help.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustRoland1969*
> 
> XSPC was a joy to work with as long as you had the video and the invoice and the white label on the side of the Res. A lady named Flora was a big help and told me my new res/pump combo was shipping out from FrozenCPU. Check the email from FrozenCPU and it's on it's way. So YAY me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the bad news. I ordered a new res/pump combo that wasn't XSPC before this all transpired. Patience is not my strong suit especially with 2500$ on the line. So I will not be bother you folks anymore sorry if I was a bother. Thanks for your help.


Great to hear it all got sorted with little to no issue.

You have been no bother what so ever.


----------



## Belial

I've got a question:

I can buy, for $130 from a friend, an XSPC X2O 750 lp/h with xspc rasa and phobya g changer 280mm rad (and 1/2x3/4 fittings, black tubing to make it work). Is this a good deal? I'm tryng to quickly learn about water cooling, I imagine this is much better than a $100-120 Corsair h110?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I've got a question:
> 
> I can buy, for $130 from a friend, an XSPC X2O 750 lp/h with xspc rasa and phobya g changer 280mm rad (and 1/2x3/4 fittings, black tubing to make it work). Is this a good deal? I'm tryng to quickly learn about water cooling, I imagine this is much better than a $100-120 Corsair h110?


Yes, that is a deal! Buy it!


----------



## JAM3S121

anyone use green leds with the raystorm block? curious how it looks.


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> anyone use green leds with the raystorm block? curious how it looks.


I use orange in my raystorm and it looks nice against the blue haf932 fans in my case.


----------



## AcidTabVocab

You could always try it out and return if you dont like it! That is if the company you order from accepts open boxes. A lot of companies charge a restocking fee if you use it and return it. Others dont. So itd be best to call and see what their return policy is! Nonetheless, i am sure itd look good.


----------



## JayKaos

Should update my pic's of my Rasa 750 RX240 with added EX 360 Rad + 2 HD7970 EK full cover water block's
Main Spec's:
Intel I7 2600K @ 4.8G
8G G.Skill 1600Mhz CL8 8-8-8-24
Gigabyte Z68X-UD7
Sapphire 2x HD7970 3G OC edition @ 1110 core / 1525 Mem
60G Agility 3 (OS)
120G Vertex 2 (Games)
Seagate 500G x2 (Games/Backup)
Corsair Obsidian 800D
Corsair AX850
+ other goodies

http://s167.photobucket.com/user/MzBeHavn_bigtime/media/Snapbucket/C4C2653C-orig.jpg.html

RX240 rear mounted

http://s167.photobucket.com/user/MzBeHavn_bigtime/media/Snapbucket/E77421D6-orig.jpg.html

http://s167.photobucket.com/user/MzBeHavn_bigtime/media/Snapbucket/FDFA9DB5-orig.jpg.html

RS 360 Top mounted

http://s167.photobucket.com/user/MzBeHavn_bigtime/media/Snapbucket/2C3C8338-orig.jpg.html

http://valid.canardpc.com/2880917


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKaos*
> 
> Should update my pic's of my Rasa 750 RX240 with added EX 360 Rad + 2 HD7970 EK full cover water block's
> Main Spec's:
> Intel I7 2600K @ 4.8G
> 8G G.Skill 1600Mhz CL8 8-8-8-24
> Gigabyte Z68X-UD7
> Sapphire 2x HD7970 3G OC edition @ 1110 core / 1525 Mem
> 60G Agility 3 (OS)
> 120G Vertex 2 (Games)
> Seagate 500G x2 (Games/Backup)
> Corsair Obsidian 800D
> Corsair AX850
> + other goodies
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s167.photobucket.com/user/MzBeHavn_bigtime/media/Snapbucket/C4C2653C-orig.jpg.html
> 
> RX240 rear mounted
> 
> http://s167.photobucket.com/user/MzBeHavn_bigtime/media/Snapbucket/E77421D6-orig.jpg.html
> 
> http://s167.photobucket.com/user/MzBeHavn_bigtime/media/Snapbucket/FDFA9DB5-orig.jpg.html
> 
> RS 360 Top mounted
> 
> http://s167.photobucket.com/user/MzBeHavn_bigtime/media/Snapbucket/2C3C8338-orig.jpg.html
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2880917


Not bad. How are the temps?


----------



## RJacobs28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> anyone use green leds with the raystorm block? curious how it looks.


Four Green LEDs on the AMD Raystorm Block.


----------



## JayKaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Not bad. How are the temps?


CPU tops out 69c under Intel burn test @ 4.8G the gpus topout @50c after 10min of furmark on a 15min test.. (1110Mhz core 1525Mhz mem)

I think my CPU heat sink needs a clean after a bad case of algae before I got the GPU coolers and cleaned the loop CPU temps where a lot lower when new..


----------



## mironccr345

I was about to say, that clear tube looks pretty dirty.


----------



## Rustynails

i would say that rear mount looks so ugly


----------



## Los Hog

Well none of that stuff is a hard fix


----------



## JayKaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rustynails*
> 
> i would say that rear mount looks so ugly


IDK and the wires have been cleaned up, the pic was taken before I had finished and besides no one can see the back of the case!


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28*
> 
> Four Green LEDs on the AMD Raystorm Block.


Man I love that look! Too bad it would be TOO much for my system (Mayhems pastel mint green is enough green already)


----------



## Los Hog

Lol yea your system does look killer


----------



## Darylrese

Anyone know if this kit is any good? Can i add to it later to cool my GPU's?

XSPC RayStorm 750 EX240 (V4 Pump) WaterCooling Kit

http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-750-EX240-V4-Pump-WaterCooling-Kit_39367.html


----------



## RJacobs28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kipsofthemud*
> 
> Man I love that look! Too bad it would be TOO much for my system (Mayhems pastel mint green is enough green already)


Thanks mate!


----------



## JayKaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Anyone know if this kit is any good? Can i add to it later to cool my GPU's?
> 
> XSPC RayStorm 750 EX240 (V4 Pump) WaterCooling Kit
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-750-EX240-V4-Pump-WaterCooling-Kit_39367.html


Yes and Yes

I have added 2 EK-FC HD7970 blocks and a 360Rad to my Rasa 750 RX240


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Anyone know if this kit is any good? Can i add to it later to cool my GPU's?
> 
> XSPC RayStorm 750 EX240 (V4 Pump) WaterCooling Kit
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-750-EX240-V4-Pump-WaterCooling-Kit_39367.html


this will work fine for cooling your cpu. You will likely need another radiator though if you plan on cooling both gpus with water.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Anyone know if this kit is any good? Can i add to it later to cool my GPU's?
> 
> XSPC RayStorm 750 EX240 (V4 Pump) WaterCooling Kit
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-750-EX240-V4-Pump-WaterCooling-Kit_39367.html


Yep, though you should get another EX/RX 240 or 360 for when you want to put your GPUs in water.

Also, the X20 750 pump/res may not be strong enough to handle the restriction added by the blocks and rad. In which case,
I would suggest the D5 kits as it has a stronger pump, which you may need in order to get enough flow for 3 blocks and at least 2 radiators:

http://shop.xs-pc.com/d/XSPC-D5-Pump-Kits_982.html

Edit: I already have to set my D5 to setting 3 or 4 (out of 5) to get good flow on 2 blocks + 2 radiators.


----------



## Lawjik

Any insight on which set up would fit the best inside of a corsair air 540. Just for the CPU for now, plan on adding another rad after I crossfire.


----------



## ref

Hey all, I'm going to be building a new rig pretty soon and going to actually attempt water cooling for once. I'm really interested in getting one of these kits, but got a question first.

I'm looking into getting the RX360 kit with the D5 vario pump. Is that single pump enough for SLI cards/cpu?


----------



## Kokin

Edit: The X20 pump kit will certainly handle a loop with a CPU + 2x GPU blocks, but the GPU blocks have to be in parallel in order to stay around the optimal 1 GPM flow rate for the X20 pump.

It only produces about 1.4~1.6 PSI @ 1 GPM, so a Raystorm block (0.6 PSI drop) and another GPU block (typically 0.8 PSI drop or more) would already be close to that limit. The exception is if you run 2x GPU blocks in parallel, in which flow rates will be at optimal speed.

That said, a D5 pump will handle a multi-block loop better and will allow one to use higher-restriction blocks and many 90* angle fittings.

This was when I had a Rasa CPU block + 2x Rasa GPU Universal blocks after switching from a X20 pump to a D5 pump:



My temps got slightly better and the D5 was more quiet @ setting 3 than the X20 pump.

This is my current setup and my D5 needs to run @ setting 3 at the very least to get optimal flow rates, any less and my temps start to spike up:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lawjik*
> 
> Any insight on which set up would fit the best inside of a corsair air 540. Just for the CPU for now, plan on adding another rad after I crossfire.


Definitely any of the D5 kits if you plan to do CPU + 2x GPUs. The regular X20 750 kit will struggle to go through a CPU + multiple GPUs, especially if you have many 90* angle fittings.

Edit:The exception is if you run your GPUs in parallel.

I'm not too sure on the spacing for the Corsair 540, but typically:

-EX = thinner rad built for low~medium speed fans
-RX = thicker rad built for low speed fans (best performance even at higher speeds)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Hey all, I'm going to be building a new rig pretty soon and going to actually attempt water cooling for once. I'm really interested in getting one of these kits, but got a question first.
> 
> I'm looking into getting the RX360 kit with the D5 vario pump. Is that single pump enough for SLI cards/cpu?


Yep. The RX360 D5 kit will be able to handle a CPU + GPU without adding another rad, but if you add a 2nd GPU into the mix, you'll definitely need another 120-240mm rad somewhere in the loop.

With only the CPU in the loop, you can run the D5 at setting 2/3, but once you add the GPU blocks, you'll probably need to go up to 4/5.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Hey all, I'm going to be building a new rig pretty soon and going to actually attempt water cooling for once. I'm really interested in getting one of these kits, but got a question first.
> 
> I'm looking into getting the RX360 kit with the D5 vario pump. Is that single pump enough for SLI cards/cpu?


yes the D5 pump is enough to do your cpu, and video cards.


----------



## Lawjik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Edit: The X20 pump kit will certainly handle a loop with a CPU + 2x GPU blocks, but the GPU blocks have to be in parallel in order to stay around the optimal 1 GPM flow rate for the X20 pump.
> 
> It only produces about 1.4~1.6 PSI @ 1 GPM, so a Raystorm block (0.6 PSI drop) and another GPU block (typically 0.8 PSI drop or more) would already be close to that limit. The exception is if you run 2x GPU blocks in parallel, in which flow rates will be at optimal speed.
> 
> That said, a D5 pump will handle a multi-block loop better and will allow one to use higher-restriction blocks and many 90* angle fittings.
> 
> This was when I had a Rasa CPU block + 2x Rasa GPU Universal blocks after switching from a X20 pump to a D5 pump:
> 
> 
> 
> My temps got slightly better and the D5 was more quiet @ setting 3 than the X20 pump.
> 
> This is my current setup and my D5 needs to run @ setting 3 at the very least to get optimal flow rates, any less and my temps start to spike up:
> 
> 
> Definitely any of the D5 kits if you plan to do CPU + 2x GPUs. The regular X20 750 kit will struggle to go through a CPU + multiple GPUs, especially if you have many 90* angle fittings.
> 
> Edit:The exception is if you run your GPUs in parallel.
> 
> I'm not too sure on the spacing for the Corsair 540, but typically:
> 
> -EX = thinner rad built for low~medium speed fans
> -RX = thicker rad built for low speed fans (best performance even at higher speeds)
> Yep. The RX360 D5 kit will be able to handle a CPU + GPU without adding another rad, but if you add a 2nd GPU into the mix, you'll definitely need another 120-240mm rad somewhere in the loop.
> 
> With only the CPU in the loop, you can run the D5 at setting 2/3, but once you add the GPU blocks, you'll probably need to go up to 4/5.


Would I only be able to do the whole push/pull fans on both sides of the rad thing if I were to go with the ex? and how would that compare to just going with a pull for the thicker RX series?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lawjik*
> 
> Would I only be able to do the whole push/pull fans on both sides of the rad thing if I were to go with the ex? and how would that compare to just going with a pull for the thicker RX series?


Pull/push will have better performance regardless of what rad you pick, so push/pull on EX will be better than a RX on push or pull only. Mind you that this is only a 1~4C difference at most.

Here is a result from Martin's testing on Push, Pull, Push/Pull on Gentle Typhoon fans at 1K RPM:



If you prefer silence, I would go for the RX series. Having used both, I would always go the RX path given that there is space for it.

In my experience, a EX120+EX240 is only slightly better than a RX240 and my loop ran a lot warmer when I switched from a RX240 to EX240 before I got my EX120.


----------



## Lawjik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Pull/push will have better performance regardless of what rad you pick, so push/pull on EX will be better than a RX on push or pull only. Mind you that this is only a 1~4C difference at most.
> 
> Here is a result from Martin's testing on Push, Pull, Push/Pull on Gentle Typhoon fans at 1K RPM:
> 
> 
> 
> If you prefer silence, I would go for the RX series. Having used both, I would always go the RX path given that there is space for it.
> 
> In my experience, a EX120+EX240 is only slightly better than a RX240 and my loop ran a lot warmer when I switched from a RX240 to EX240 before I got my EX120.


I just wanted to do it for the sex appeal. I think it looks really dope. but ill continue my research, thanks for the help


----------



## alancsalt

No results for push with shroud +pull with no shroud......which one might expect to be optimal....


----------



## JayKaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Also, the X20 750 pump/res may not be strong enough to handle the restriction added by the blocks and rad. In which case,
> I would suggest the D5 kits as it has a stronger pump, which you may need in order to get enough flow for 3 blocks and at least 2 radiators:
> .


Pump seems good enough here with a 360 and 240 rad 2 GPU blocks and CPU, gpu's <50c in 15min furmark test (Max temp reached at 10min -approx and sustained for last 5min) cpu 69c but it was @ 4.8G 1.475V at the time of the last Intel Burn test (i7 2600k)


----------



## mironccr345

^ Agreed. The 750 pump seems to be a good pump for the price. It handled one 360 rad, one 120 rad, two gpu blocks and one cpu block. I still have the pump as a back up.


----------



## Kokin

I'm not trying to slam the X20 pump since it's a great entry-level pump that I have personally used, but I wouldn't recommend it for people who are asking for advice when I know it could produce disappointing results.

I am all for money-saving, but the pump is like your PSU, you can't really go cheap on it nor expect it to last long if you overload it. That said, my used D5 has been running since 2006, hence why I would much recommend that over the X20 pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKaos*
> 
> Pump seems good enough here with a 360 and 240 rad 2 GPU blocks and CPU, gpu's <50c in 15min furmark test (Max temp reached at 10min -approx and sustained for last 5min) cpu 69c but it was @ 4.8G 1.475V at the time of the last Intel Burn test (i7 2600k)


Are your GPUs in series or parallel and are they at stock? Rads only have a 0.1~0.2 PSI drop, while GPU blocks will range around the 1PSI drop (per block). The X20 can only sustain a 1.4~1.6 PSI level at 1 GPM, so if your GPU blocks are not in parallel, you'll be getting a 2~3PSI drop, hence much lower flow rates than the optimal 1 GPM. In this situation, you'll see increased temps (varies upon loop setup and ambient).


----------



## mironccr345

I agree with you. I was only stating that the x20 pump can handle a decent loop. As far as reliability, it's a hit or miss. I was rocking the x20 pump/res for a little over a year before I upgraded to the D5 pump.


----------



## Los Hog

I agree with Kokin while it will run a three block loop (as I seem it do many times) the D5 is a better pump for that kind of build


----------



## JayKaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I'm not trying to slam the X20 pump since it's a great entry-level pump that I have personally used, but I wouldn't recommend it for people who are asking for advice when I know it could produce disappointing results.
> 
> I am all for money-saving, but the pump is like your PSU, you can't really go cheap on it nor expect it to last long if you overload it. That said, my used D5 has been running since 2006, hence why I would much recommend that over the X20 pump.
> Are your GPUs in series or parallel and are they at stock? Rads only have a 0.1~0.2 PSI drop, while GPU blocks will range around the 1PSI drop (per block). The X20 can only sustain a 1.4~1.6 PSI level at 1 GPM, so if your GPU blocks are not in parallel, you'll be getting a 2~3PSI drop, hence much lower flow rates than the optimal 1 GPM. In this situation, you'll see increased temps (varies upon loop setup and ambient).


All in Series, in this order REZ/Pump > CPU Block > EX240 Rad > GPU Block 's in series > RS260 Rad iirc then back to rez....

GPU temp's are excellent @1115Mhz core/1675 mem <50c furmark stress test - CPU not so cool but It needs a good clean IMO

Obviousle the D5 is the better choice - also the reason for my loop config to help keep the pump cool. - I see a lot of builds that go Pump > Rad > CPU/GPU Block's back to Rez - IMO not a good setup adds heat to the REZ/PUMP


----------



## Kokin

It really shouldn't matter because the water stays the same temp throughout your loop. It's not like all the heat from your CPU/GPU will suddenly increase the temp of your pump if it doesn't go through the rad first. If anything the pump's water temp would probably be about 1C higher than after the rad.


----------



## JayKaos

Ii think U missed the point the GPU's hot water is being dumped into the rez and therefore the PUMP .....

O well meh


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It really shouldn't matter because the water stays the same temp throughout your loop. It's not like all the heat from your CPU/GPU will suddenly increase the temp of your pump if it doesn't go through the rad first. If anything the pump's water temp would probably be about 1C higher than after the rad.


Big +1


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKaos*
> 
> Ii think U missed the point the GPU's hot water is being dumped into the rez and therefore the PUMP .....
> 
> O well meh


The matter of fact is the water in loop will warm up slowly & in time reaches a balance, called an equilibrium. Once water temperature stabilize, the difference only a couple of degrees. Except the pump must come after reservoir, the order of the loop is not important.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKaos*
> 
> Ii think U missed the point the GPU's hot water is being dumped into the rez and therefore the PUMP .....
> 
> O well meh


I used to think the same way you are thinking, but I quickly learned that it doesn't work that way from just reading through watercooling threads.

I was trying to explain that the temperature of the "hot water" from the CPU+GPU(s) is not much more than the temperature of the water after being cooled by the radiator(s) since the loop reaches an equilibrium pretty quickly after you go from idle to high load or vice versa. The pump wouldn't experience a sudden shock of hot water.

This is a bit off topic, but going back to the D5 and X20 pumps, they are actually "cooled" off by having the pump's heat go into the waterloop as opposed to the DDC pumps that offload the heat into a heatsink outside of the loop.


----------



## skitz9417

hi guys im just wondering would XSPC Raystorm 750 RS360 Water Cooling be overkill for i7 3820 oc ?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> hi guys im just wondering would XSPC Raystorm 750 RS360 Water Cooling be overkill for i7 3820 oc ?


It's a bit overkill, but if you ever add a GPU block in your loop, then you may not even need to add more radiator space.

Keep in mind the RS360 is a thin radiator with a high FPI(Fins-per-inch) and requires you to run medium/high speed fans (1600~2000RPM fans). If you want to run at lower fan speeds ~1000RPM (less noise) consider the thicker RX240 or RX360.


----------



## Ithanul

Well, my Rasa 750 RS360 kit is soon to be retired and sold off. Got me a RayStorm with Monsoon Series Two res/pump kit on order that I plan to smack on this new shiny i7 4770k I got a hold of. Main rig going to get a huge overhaul.


----------



## Faster_is_better

I got a used RS240 kit, hopefully it came with the right backplate (only 1). Anything I should do before using it? It isn't drained, came put together. The liquid looks clear and tubing seems ok. I'll probably need to download the user manual and have a look also.

It's my first water cooling setup, so its all new to me. I figured for $30 it was a steal


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I got a used RS240 kit, hopefully it came with the right backplate (only 1). Anything I should do before using it? It isn't drained, came put together. The liquid looks clear and tubing seems ok. I'll probably need to download the user manual and have a look also.
> 
> It's my first water cooling setup, so its all new to me. I figured for $30 it was a steal


it is a steal, interesting they shipped it with the liquid inside it. I would get some tubing and some distilled water and redo it.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I got a used RS240 kit, hopefully it came with the right backplate (only 1). Anything I should do before using it? It isn't drained, came put together. The liquid looks clear and tubing seems ok. I'll probably need to download the user manual and have a look also.
> 
> It's my first water cooling setup, so its all new to me. I figured for $30 it was a steal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is a steal, interesting they shipped it with the liquid inside it. I would get some tubing and some distilled water and redo it.
Click to expand...

It was a local deal actually. I guess he had bought it from someone else who used it for a couple years, maintained it well, and then he used it for a year or something and has had it in storage for a while since then. I hooked it up temporarily to listen to it, pump is quiet, nothing was leaking, looked clear. I may need to replace tubing anyway, depending on how it will fit in the case, or not fit.


----------



## Kyashan

Hello guys I was considering buying the XSPC kit, I should just cool the cpu and I want to have a system efficient and quiet, which kit should I choose? Thank you and Happy Holidays to All


----------



## PCBung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyashan*
> 
> Hello guys I was considering buying the XSPC kit, I should just cool the cpu and I want to have a system efficient and quiet, which kit should I choose? Thank you and Happy Holidays to All


Buy the biggest you can afford. Watercooling is addictive you'll soon find yourself cooling the whole system.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBung*
> 
> Buy the biggest you can afford. Watercooling is addictive you'll soon find yourself cooling the whole system.


So true. Though depends on what size radiator the individual's case can take.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> So true. Though depends on what size radiator the individual's case can take.


most case have holes for liquid cooling, so that's not entirely true, you can always externally mount.


----------



## HighTemplar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> most case have holes for liquid cooling, so that's not entirely true, you can always externally mount.


I prefer to externally mount rather than go through the hassle of mounting inside and risking leaks, etc. Plus I like using massive rads


----------



## spikezone2004

It seems like I have gotten pump noise out of no where, anyone have any experiance with XSPC customer service? I sent a request and someone emailed me back from china asking for video and pics but no video on youtube because it is blocked in china.

here is a video I uploaded if anyone knows how to fix it without doing rma if they even do one for me

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0lg6tgg74cr5x71/VIDEO0032.mp4


----------



## cgull

Hi guys
first post in this thread









I have 2 xspc kits the d5 bay res and the " X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump V4 "

the d5 is feeding cpu,gpu , 240 rad(60) and 240 rad (30) in one pc

and the 750 is currently doing an rx360 and cpu in another pc

*my question is : would the 750 be able to handle cpu, 2x gpu (gtx570's), rx 360 and xt 360(45) for a while until I upgrade to a d5?

*Also for spikezone2004 : xspc cust srvce seems pretty good. My 750 pump started to get real noisy.. same deal, they wanted a vid.. after a few days they approved the rma..referred me to the retailer and they would do a replacement no worries. Only thing was they wanted me to send in the pump before they would send a replacement. Naturally this didn't suit me so I attempted a fix myself. Thankfully it worked. IT may not work for you.
I was able to unscrew the top cover of the res and inspect the pump. The shroud around the "impeller" input was generating the noise. it had a 'play' of about 1mm .. When pressed firmly against the pump it was quiet, but if there was a slight gap then the noise started.. My solution was to cut a triangle shaped piece of acrylic and use it as a wedge between the res wall and the shroud, thereby closing the gap. So far so good.

My advice is to wait for xspc cust service to get back to you. If your vid can clearly show the noisy pump and the serial number is legit then they will approve an rma.

If you are impatient (like me) , handy with basic tools , have an ounce of common sense and willing to potentially void your warranty (modders mantra) then have a crack at fixing it yourself. Sorry I don't have any pics, but I wasn't thinking beyond the problem at the time.. also I only have crappy cameras


----------



## Roikyou

I just replaced my XSPC acrylic dual bay reservoir as one of my mcp35x burned up after a years use.. (yes, it's bottom mounting versus the D5 rear mountin) Trying to remove the mounting screws supplied by xspc left blisters on my hand and eventually destroyed the acrylic and one of the pump housing. It's making me think twice about ever having an acrylic pump housing where the screws mount to the acrylic, no counter sunk fittings or anything like that.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> Hi guys
> first post in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 xspc kits the d5 bay res and the " X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump V4 "
> 
> the d5 is feeding cpu,gpu , 240 rad(60) and 240 rad (30) in one pc
> 
> and the 750 is currently doing an rx360 and cpu in another pc
> 
> *my question is : would the 750 be able to handle cpu, 2x gpu (gtx570's), rx 360 and xt 360(45) for a while until I upgrade to a d5?
> 
> *Also for spikezone2004 : xspc cust srvce seems pretty good. My 750 pump started to get real noisy.. same deal, they wanted a vid.. after a few days they approved the rma..referred me to the retailer and they would do a replacement no worries. Only thing was they wanted me to send in the pump before they would send a replacement. Naturally this didn't suit me so I attempted a fix myself. Thankfully it worked. IT may not work for you.
> I was able to unscrew the top cover of the res and inspect the pump. The shroud around the "impeller" input was generating the noise. it had a 'play' of about 1mm .. When pressed firmly against the pump it was quiet, but if there was a slight gap then the noise started.. My solution was to cut a triangle shaped piece of acrylic and use it as a wedge between the res wall and the shroud, thereby closing the gap. So far so good.
> 
> My advice is to wait for xspc cust service to get back to you. If your vid can clearly show the noisy pump and the serial number is legit then they will approve an rma.
> 
> If you are impatient (like me) , handy with basic tools , have an ounce of common sense and willing to potentially void your warranty (modders mantra) then have a crack at fixing it yourself. Sorry I don't have any pics, but I wasn't thinking beyond the problem at the time.. also I only have crappy cameras


I will have to try that, I eventually got through to them and they told me go through retailer so I did and retailer wanted everything back from the kid and original box pump, rad, fittings, tubing and i was not going to go without a computer for however long it takes to get it back and take my computer apart to take out a rad and fittings when they are fine so maybe I will try that and see what happens. I read somewhere there is a screw you can tighten inside that stops it but when i opened it up i didnt see any screw


----------



## cgull

That's pretty lame of the retailer, wanting the whole kit back! My retailer was pretty cool about it , they were even prepared to give me a credit towards a better pump if I upgraded. Not xspc's fault.
All I did was take the top off, put it in a sink full of water, connected to a spare psu and had a fiddle-- obviously making sure no water could spray onto the psu. Didn't see any screw to tighten? Pump just slotted in . Had to undo the plastic extender to the outlet, but that was it.
Good luck with a fix.


----------



## Kingkenny

Hi Guys,

Can anybody help? I was taking my 750 apart for cleaning and dropped it. The rubber and the odd looking shape plastic bit both flew odd in different directions.

I am assuming on putting it back together... that the o-ring goes in the gap and the plastic bit fits on top ( smooth surface facing up)

PIC1 is the smooth side...(which I think should be on top)
PIC2 is the other side...(which I think should be facing down....)
PIC3 is how I think it should look...

It seems to fit both ways... so I am a little unsure....

If anybody can help with this.... I'd be grateful.

Kind Regards,

King

PIC1 

PIC2 

PIC3


----------



## ebduncan

smooth side faces towards the cold plate, like in picture 3. But reversed, there is a plastic notch that fits on the top of picture 2.


----------



## Kingkenny

Hi Ebduncan,

Thanks for the update but I am a little confused by your comments...."like in pic 3 but reversed" I only have a rubber o-ring (which I have placed in the channel) and one plastic piece (the diamond shape looking thing with the hole in it). One side is flat (PIC1) and the other has the grove cut out of it (PIC2).

I have no other plastic notches...

Kind Regards,

King

P.S.... you mean like this?


----------



## ebduncan

no i was saying like in pic 3... sorry if the reverse thing confused you.


----------



## spikezone2004

finally just got a replacement pump/res sent to me! after months of the retailer telling me they cant do it. i talked to XSPC again and they made the retailer do it. its part of the retailer contract with XSPC to replace all pumps in warranty within first year of purchase. I definitely give XSPC rep for helping me out their.

Don't know if I will purchase from this company again after all this trouble.


----------



## emeianoite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> Sweet, thanks a bunch. He used a 280mm rad and I'm only trying to fit a 240mm so this should be a breeze. Will have to wait til after Christmas though seeing as all my funds were just spent getting a Crossover q27


I shoved a 280 at the top of my cm 690 ii advanced with a 240 at the bottom. Looks so nice.


----------



## spikezone2004

did you have to move anything to fit a 280 in your 690?

I have a 240 in the top and bottom of mine, feel like even with the 240 its a tight fit


----------



## emeianoite

I had to drill mounting holes on the back side of the top to get it to fit right, i also dremeled off pieces of the top to not hinder airflow. It was actually very easy and fits like a glove. The RX on the bottle fills out the empty space that these cases have. I also run a 7950 and everything just seems to be in perfect harmony.

By backside, i dont mean the rear of the case, i mean the side of the motherboard tray, where you run the cables side.

Just make sure you deburr the drill holes and metal cuts.


----------



## mbudden

I'm glad to see this thread still alive and kicking.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*
> 
> I had to drill mounting holes on the back side of the top to get it to fit right, i also dremeled off pieces of the top to not hinder airflow. It was actually very easy and fits like a glove. The RX on the bottle fills out the empty space that these cases have. I also run a 7950 and everything just seems to be in perfect harmony.
> 
> By backside, i dont mean the rear of the case, i mean the side of the motherboard tray, where you run the cables side.
> 
> Just make sure you deburr the drill holes and metal cuts.


Interesting. I was just curious how you made it fit, I mounted my RX240 on the top and modded the top of the case took out the plastic bars and opened up the top so my rx240 would fit, was a very tight fit though.

If i had known this 2 months ago i would have gotten a 280 instead of a 2nd 240 radiator for the top


----------



## emeianoite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Interesting. I was just curious how you made it fit, I mounted my RX240 on the top and modded the top of the case took out the plastic bars and opened up the top so my rx240 would fit, was a very tight fit though.
> 
> If i had known this 2 months ago i would have gotten a 280 instead of a 2nd 240 radiator for the top


An rx at the top is insane. That thing is thick.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*
> 
> An rx at the top is insane. That thing is thick.


lol yea, at first i really wanted it up top now i have it in the bottom and looks a lot better more flush, this is it up top with push and pull fan set up on it, way to bulky but at the time it was my first water cooling setup



this is it now on the bottom


----------



## emeianoite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> lol yea, at first i really wanted it up top now i have it in the bottom and looks a lot better more flush, this is it up top with push and pull fan set up on it, way to bulky but at the time it was my first water cooling setup
> 
> 
> 
> this is it now on the bottom


That's the way to do it, now its time for an ex280 at the top lol.


----------



## alancsalt

Can I ask in this "kit" thread whether anyone has any experience with the cross flow radiators, and what they thought? I have just bought some EX360 Cross Flows for a build.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emeianoite*
> 
> That's the way to do it, now its time for an ex280 at the top lol.


I have a ST30 up top that fit perfectly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Can I ask in this "kit" thread whether anyone has any experience with the cross flow radiators, and what they thought? I have just bought some EX360 Cross Flows for a build.


The cross flow radiators are good, you get more cooling space with a thinner radiator pretty much. they are a little longer and the ports are one on each end of the radiator instead. I believe the EX360 crossflow compares to the RX360, being thinner and same amount of cooling.


----------



## mbudden

Wow. This thread is still alive and kicking?
Looks like a lot of updating needs to be done to the first post.... Heh....


----------



## Suferbus

Has anyone tried to run 2 rads on the 750 RX 360? I am running the XSPC 750 RX 360 cpu combo and I want to add in my 2 6gb 780's with the XSPC full waterblock on each, but I do not want my cpu cooling affected, at least not by much. So, I was thinking on adding a 2nd XSPC 240mm RAD into the loop, so out of the cpu into the 360mm rad, out of the 360 mm rad into the graphics cards, then out of the graphics cards into the 240mm rad and back into pump res combo. I guess my biggest concern is the pump being able to handle another rad without any issues. My other idea is to just pick up a 240mm rad and pump and run it separate, but seems like alot of noise and waste of power. Any ideas?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Has anyone tried to run 2 rads on the 750 RX 360? I am running the XSPC 750 RX 360 cpu combo and I want to add in my 2 6gb 780's with the XSPC full waterblock on each, but I do not want my cpu cooling affected, at least not by much. So, I was thinking on adding a 2nd XSPC 240mm RAD into the loop, so out of the cpu into the 360mm rad, out of the 360 mm rad into the graphics cards, then out of the graphics cards into the 240mm rad and back into pump res combo. I guess my biggest concern is the pump being able to handle another rad without any issues. My other idea is to just pick up a 240mm rad and pump and run it separate, but seems like alot of noise and waste of power. Any ideas?


Here's my









To add ONLY a second radiator wouldn't be a problem as these rads don't have zip for restriction,
but you also mentioned wanting to add two GPU's at the same time on the original pump? I wouldn't recommend it.

I'd be thinking pump upgrade (D5) to protect my investment at minimum. After two years of running my original pump common sense told me it was time to replace just to stay safe.
Your thought about a second system wouldn't be out of the question if it were me.

I run a RX360 and a EX140 (check my rig sig and pics) and running the OC shown below IMHO I would not want any more load on CPU/mobo block temps.
Currently temps are great at this level and even have headroom. See spoiler for a quick 9 hour Prime95 Blend run.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I wouldn't want to ruin a good thing.

Hope this give you a better idea of what to expect.

For those that may not be aware, to view spoiler full screen open, than click "Original" in the lower right hand corner.


----------



## alancsalt

I think your XSPC pump can handle two rads if using the xspc cpu block. They are a low restriction block compared to other cpu blocks. EK supreme or Phobya cpu blocks seem more restrictive, and need cleaning more often.

I've run four GTX 580 and two RX360 on one XSPC pump. The CPU had its own XSPC pump and RX360.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Has anyone tried to run 2 rads on the 750 RX 360? I am running the XSPC 750 RX 360 cpu combo and I want to add in my 2 6gb 780's with the XSPC full waterblock on each, but I do not want my cpu cooling affected, at least not by much. So, I was thinking on adding a 2nd XSPC 240mm RAD into the loop, so out of the cpu into the 360mm rad, out of the 360 mm rad into the graphics cards, then out of the graphics cards into the 240mm rad and back into pump res combo. I guess my biggest concern is the pump being able to handle another rad without any issues. My other idea is to just pick up a 240mm rad and pump and run it separate, but seems like alot of noise and waste of power. Any ideas?


I have two rads, (RX240 and a Alphacool XT 45 280mm) I run a cpu block and a gpu block. All on the stock included pump. Probably about the max I would recommend on this pump. If you have 2 gpus your going to need a better pump.

Gpu blocks are rather restrictive.


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I think your XSPC pump can handle two rads if using the xspc cpu block. They are a low restriction block compared to other cpu blocks. EK supreme or Phobya cpu blocks seem more restrictive, and need cleaning more often.
> 
> I've run four GTX 580 and two RX360 on one XSPC pump. The CPU had its own XSPC pump and RX360.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Here's my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To add ONLY a second radiator wouldn't be a problem as these rads don't have zip for restriction,
> but you also mentioned wanting to add two GPU's at the same time on the original pump? I wouldn't recommend it.
> 
> I'd be thinking pump upgrade (D5) to protect my investment at minimum. After two years of running my original pump common sense told me it was time to replace just to stay safe.
> Your thought about a second system wouldn't be out of the question if it were me.
> 
> I run a RX360 and a EX140 (check my rig sig and pics) and running the OC shown below IMHO I would not want any more load on CPU/mobo block temps.
> Currently temps are great at this level and even have headroom. See spoiler for a quick 9 hour Prime95 Blend run.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't want to ruin a good thing.
> 
> Hope this give you a better idea of what to expect.
> 
> For those that may not be aware, to view spoiler full screen open, than click "Original" in the lower right hand corner.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I think your XSPC pump can handle two rads if using the xspc cpu block. They are a low restriction block compared to other cpu blocks. EK supreme or Phobya cpu blocks seem more restrictive, and need cleaning more often.
> 
> I've run four GTX 580 and two RX360 on one XSPC pump. The CPU had its own XSPC pump and RX360.


Great info, thanks everyone for the help. I think I will go with a separate pump/rad altogether and purchase a glass cylinder reservoir since I have been wanting one anyway. So a D5 pump is a good investment?


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> Great info, thanks everyone for the help. I think I will go with a separate pump/rad altogether and purchase a glass cylinder reservoir since I have been wanting one anyway. So a D5 pump is a good investment?


Yes a D5 is a good investment, but also is the new MCP50X.

I have the 750 XSPC pump along with a RX240 rad, alphacool ST30 240mm rad, XSPC cpu block and EK VGA supremacy block and i think that is pushing my pump i cant remember what my calculations were but i think i calculated it and its gone to under 1gpm which i want it to be above.

I am upgrading my pump to the new MCP50X and adding another rad and mobo block to my system. I definitely wouldnt recommend 2 gpu blocks with a 750 pump


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The D5 (aka MCP-655, PMP450, VPP655) has been around for a long time and is as bulletproof of a pump as there ever has been.

The new MCP50X is just that, new. Only time will tell if it really is a good pump or not. It looks a lot like a DDC (aka mcp35x, PMP400) pump but won't work with DDC tops so I don't know how much or how little if any similarities to a DDC besides its outward appearance there is or not. I don't think it's as strong of a pump as a DDC either. It is a bit cheaper though. I do wonder if it will get hot like a DDC and if so if it might suffer from some of the DDC's known issues with overheating related failures or not.

Only time will tell.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The D5 (aka MCP-655, PMP450, VPP655) has been around for a long time and is as bulletproof of a pump as there ever has been.
> 
> The new MCP50X is just that, new. Only time will tell if it really is a good pump or not. It looks a lot like a DDC (aka mcp35x, PMP400) pump but won't work with DDC tops so I don't know how much or how little if any similarities to a DDC besides its outward appearance there is or not. I don't think it's as strong of a pump as a DDC either. It is a bit cheaper though. I do wonder if it will get hot like a DDC and if so if it might suffer from some of the DDC's known issues with overheating related failures or not.
> 
> Only time will tell.


Thats what i am fearing is that the pump will get hot because it runs at high watts i believe 26w it peaks at. still waiting for some more data and tests to come in before i purchase it.

The D5 is definitely a bullet proof pump though thats for sure.


----------



## Diablo2424

Currently I have an Antec 1200 with my XSPC RX360 mounted on the back of the case (externally) with my pump/res combo mounted in place of the lower two hard drive cages. However, I am looking at getting a new case and I would like to internally house my XSPC RX360 in at LEAST a push setup, preferably a push/pull, as well as mount all 5 of my 3.5" HDD's internally.

My question is, what case do you think would be able to work for me? I know I'm most likely going to end up mounting the radiator on the top of the case, but I want to keep it inside the new case, and with just a pull setup (my current setup) the radiator + fans = 90mm (3.54") in depth, which I know is asking a lot for a top mount. I found the NZXT Source 810 that seems like it may work for me in a push/pull setup all internal at the top of the case, however, I found this one review that I worries me a little, check it out from this point on for the next few minutes: http://youtu.be/-LHjJ8sPe_8?t=41m55s around 45:00 he also mentions an issue with the back most fan hitting the heat sink on his motherboard. I'm running an Asus M5A99FX Pro r2.0, which doesn't have a heatsink there, but it does have the 8-pin CPU Power plug, which I feel will stick up just as much.

So, aside from getting the NZXT Source 810 and doing some modding on it (which is an option for me - like cutting out that plate in the 5.25" bay, as I only have 1 BDR drive to go in there), what other options have you guys found that will work with this radiator?


----------



## FuriousPop

am i allowed to talk about the RX480's??? or is that in a different thread?


----------



## Egerion

Hello guys,im planning to use my RayStorm 750 EX360 V3 WaterCooling Kit on Corsair 450D case.I'm planning to place my radiator to the top of my case.Do you guys think does it fits?
it's really importent for me,thank you for attention.

Ive also sent a message to xs-pc itself and im waiting message from them,ill post their respont.


----------



## AK-47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egerion*
> 
> Hello guys,im planning to use my RayStorm 750 EX360 V3 WaterCooling Kit on Corsair 450D case.I'm planning to place my radiator to the top of my case.Do you guys think does it fits?
> it's really importent for me,thank you for attention.
> 
> Ive also sent a message to xs-pc itself and im waiting message from them,ill post their respont.


you're asking in all the wrong places
Don't ask xs-pc, ask corsair.
and don't ask in this thread but in the 450d thread
I did the the research for you though

Radiator and fan compatibility:
Top: 3 x 120mm or 2 x 140mm (360mm radiator)
Front: 2 x 140mm or 2 x 120mm (2 x 140mm included) (280mm radiator)
Bottom: 2 x 120mm (240mm radiator)
Rear: 1 x 120mm (120mm included) (120mm radiator)

The EX is one of the thinnest radiators(30 MM) so I'll have to say that it will fit with no problem what so ever.


----------



## ep45-ds3l

Picked up a Raystorm 360 kit and some white tubing to cool my 5960x at Microcenter. CPU loop only is the reason why I went with the X20 pump as opposed to the D5. Has to be better than my h100i. Haha


----------



## Egerion

Thank you for fast help,ill pay more attention further to my posts,i'm kind a new on forums so now im on learning section








also guys from xspc has contacted with me and they also told me that case is enough for that 3Fan Radiator...


----------



## ep45-ds3l

So.. The Raystorm ex360 x20 750 pump res doesn't fit in a 900D.. Ugh, wish I would have known that before I bought it. Can't tighten the screws down to secure it as the pump res combo doesn't go far enough into the case.


----------



## cgull

Bummer, you'll have to drill some holes..


----------



## ep45-ds3l

All good now








Leak testing for 24 hours now..


----------



## XMDINIGHTX

hello X20 gurus.

my XSPC Rasa X20 750 kit consists of the ff items in a loop:

X20 750 > ek-fc titan block > RS240> XSPCRasa > GTS 120 Xflow > repeat

my question:

based on previous posts. I gather that the x20 can only be fit with 2 blocks and 2 rads. since the case im using allows me to shorten my hoses. I figure maybe I could add 1 more radiator to the loop?
Ive overclocked both cpu and gpu and have noticed that both radiators take a beating when either block is stress tested. I just wanted to know if its possible to add another radiator in the loop with the X20? I plan to add another rs240, ex240 or rx 240 on top of the case to add to the loop. replacement of rads is not an option for me. any intelligent and constructive suggestion would be +rep and highly appreciated. thank you!


----------



## skitz9417

hey guys im just wondering is the xspc rs 240 kit able to cool my fx 6300 at 4.5ghz and im looking to overclock to 4.7ghz


----------



## XMDINIGHTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> hey guys im just wondering is the xspc rs 240 kit able to cool my fx 6300 at 4.5ghz and im looking to overclock to 4.7ghz


if it can cool an intel i5 4690k like mine to 65*c average temps at 4.6ghz. im pretty sure it can handle an AMD.


----------



## dgraham1284




----------



## XMDINIGHTX

dunno about those oversized reservoirs...but, those sure look like darn great in a case!


----------



## AgentHydra

So, awhile back my X20 750 pump starting making grinding noises, it ran for maybe a week and then just stopped. I took the whole res/pump apart and put it back together and it started working again. Now a few months later it's started grinding again.

Are there any fixes for these pumps? I know they are pretty bad but I just want to double check as I haven't spent much time on this thread (although apparently I have the 2nd post, that was a long time ago lol).

Otherwise I guess I'll be buying a D5 and XSPC bay res combo.

Thanks guise


----------



## XMDINIGHTX

usually the grinding noise meant theres an air bubble inside of it. best is to replace with a PWM pump. XSPC has the new d5 pwm type pump. I just saw it last week and im not sure if it available now.


----------



## XMDINIGHTX

Replaced my Rasa with a raystorm. and those two are worlds apart! like, entry level grade...to performance grade!











been trying to apply violet stamp pad ink on the blue led to get to indigo. hehe.


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## Recr3ational

can someone tell me what speed does th XSPC D5 run at, when its on 5?


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## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> can someone tell me what speed does th XSPC D5 run at, when its on 5?


It will depend slightly on the system flow rate but in general setting 5 is 4800RPM

D5 manual
http://www.navitron.org.uk/download_images/download_111.pdf


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## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It will depend slightly on the system flow rate but in general setting 5 is 4800RPM
> 
> D5 manual
> http://www.navitron.org.uk/download_images/download_111.pdf


Thank you very much. that's what mine is at. Was just checking.


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## WeirdHarold

Ok I've got a question that I know has been asked before, possibly even by me LoL  I am still running one of the original RASA 750 Bay Res Pumps not the new X2O one. I've been one of the lucky ones that had zero problems with it and it's never missed a beat ! However my SSD recently died??? So I figured this would be a great time to upgrade the loop a little while I've got things apart and need to know if I'll need to replace the pump or not. Do you think the RASA 750 pump will have enough to take on a 360 rad the cpu block a 120 rad and a full cover GTX 680 waterblock??? The rads are just standard thick XSPC RS / EX type and the 360 will be in the roof of a Corsair 800D and the 120 on the back Vent fan of the 800D.

Thanks in advance for the advice as always!


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## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok I've got a question that I know has been asked before, possibly even by me LoL  I am still running one of the original RASA 750 Bay Res Pumps not the new X2O one. I've been one of the lucky ones that had zero problems with it and it's never missed a beat ! However my SSD recently died??? So I figured this would be a great time to upgrade the loop a little while I've got things apart and need to know if I'll need to replace the pump or not. Do you think the RASA 750 pump will have enough to take on a 360 rad the cpu block a 120 rad and a full cover GTX 680 waterblock??? The rads are just standard thick XSPC RS / EX type and the 360 will be in the roof of a Corsair 800D and the 120 on the back Vent fan of the 800D.
> 
> Thanks in advance for the advice as always!


I used that pump with a CPU block, 2 gpu blocks and 2 radiators and it was still good. So you're fine I reckon.

The 750 pump has given me less issues than my 4 month old D5.


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## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> I used that pump with a CPU block, 2 gpu blocks and 2 radiators and it was still good. So you're fine I reckon.
> 
> The 750 pump has given me less issues than my 4 month old D5.


Thanks, I thought I remembered asking this same question after I first bought the RASA kit but that was some time ago now and wanted to make sure I was remembering correctly. +Rep


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## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Thanks, I thought I remembered asking this same question after I first bought the RASA kit but that was some time ago now and wanted to make sure I was remembering correctly. +Rep


No problem. I love that pump. It's quiet, simple, easy to bleed and works like a charm. It's like £50 too compare to £130 for the D5.

My D5 just seems to hate me.


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## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> No problem. I love that pump. It's quiet, simple, easy to bleed and works like a charm. It's like £50 too compare to £130 for the D5.
> 
> My D5 just seems to hate me.


Well, that's the way I chose to go mainly because of the cost. So I have the 2 Radiators, a green LED for the Res, some green tubing all the fan screws I need, a GPU waterblock and all the proper fittings I need on the way. With any luck this will get my system back up and running in my old 800D because I sick of buying new cases and I want to wait and see what Phanteks comes up with to top the Primo









Thanks again for confirming the pump would handle my loop


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## WeirdHarold

Ok I've got another questions for you all:

I'm ready to start putting the stuff in my case and I'm wondering on the direction of airflow in my case, I'm putting everything in an old Corsair 800D. I'm mounting a 360 in the top and a 120 on the back and I was thinking I'd pull fresh cool air in through 360mm Rad in the top and have the back one pushing air out through the 120mm Rad. I'd also have the 140mm fan in the bottom of the case pushing air into the motherboard compartment. Do you all think this will be okay, or should I also reverse the back fans to pull cool air into the 120mm Rad on the back? My empty PCI slot covers are removed at the moment and will be replaced with ventilated ones in the end, and I do want positive case pressure to help keep dust to a minimum in the case.

Oh yeah so you know the loop set up: Bay Res/Pump ---> the 360mm Rad ----> to the CPU block ----> the 120mm Rad ----> GPU Block ----> back the Res.

Thanks in advance for the help and advice


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## WeirdHarold

My Rads are in


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## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> My Rads are in


I like it!

Perhaps this will help you figure out air flow
http://www.overclock.net/t/1514845/rad-fan-setup-dilemma#post_22904442

I'm in the same boat and thinking of adding another 360 in the front of mine


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I like it!
> 
> Perhaps this will help you figure out air flow
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1514845/rad-fan-setup-dilemma#post_22904442
> 
> I'm in the same boat and thinking of adding another 360 in the front of mine


Hey thanks for the link that's kinda what I'd found though my many attempts to Google it and I've already set it up the way I'd originally intended. I'll let everyone know how my temps turn out when I finally get it fired up, I'm waiting on a multi fan port now and some fan extensions so that I can keep the wires on the back as neat as possible. I did fire up the fans just to see how they sounded and though I can hear them, it's still not as loud as the fan on the graphics card used to be under load. Mostly I can hear the 140mm Areocool Shark on the mid plate, but I'll replace that with something better it's just the fan I had there from the last system in the case.

I also managed to get the tubing installed last night / this morning


----------



## Suferbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Hey thanks for the link that's kinda what I'd found though my many attempts to Google it and I've already set it up the way I'd originally intended. I'll let everyone know how my temps turn out when I finally get it fired up, I'm waiting on a multi fan port now and some fan extensions so that I can keep the wires on the back as neat as possible. I did fire up the fans just to see how they sounded and though I can hear them, it's still not as loud as the fan on the graphics card used to be under load. Mostly I can hear the 140mm Areocool Shark on the mid plate, but I'll replace that with something better it's just the fan I had there from the last system in the case.
> 
> I also managed to get the tubing installed last night / this morning


So is one of the intake/return lines to the 360 rad hidden in the drive bay?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suferbus*
> 
> So is one of the intake/return lines to the 360 rad hidden in the drive bay?


Yes, the 360 Rad is a cross flow - so the line from the pump up to the Rad is in the optical bay area:


----------



## joeyxl

hey guys,

so i did a rebulid on my computer and a new case, so ill be re-doing my loop. ill post pics on here once im done doing the loop!


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

im looking at getting a 5820k and a gtx 980 and water cool them. can i cool them ok with the 750 kit with a 240 on top and a 120 on the back?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> im looking at getting a 5820k and a gtx 980 and water cool them. can i cool them ok with the 750 kit with a 240 on top and a 120 on the back?


I'm cooling an AMD 1100T and a 660TI with 360 on top and a 120 on back and getting great temps and both Rads are not the thick Rads just standard XSPC EX Rads. So I'd lean towards you probably could, I think I've seen others that have cooled a CPU and one GPU with a 360 Rad.


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'm cooling an AMD 1100T and a 660TI with 360 on top and a 120 on back and getting great temps and both Rads are not the thick Rads just standard XSPC EX Rads. So I'd lean towards you probably could, I think I've seen others that have cooled a CPU and one GPU with a 360 Rad.


I've been using a RX360 rad with both CPU and GPU's with moderate OC's.. temps are still great. Getting ready to add another 240 rad, either the RX or AX, in the bottom of the case. Just waiting for it's arrival.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antykain*
> 
> I've been using a RX360 rad with both CPU and GPU's with moderate OC's.. temps are still great. Getting ready to add another 240 rad, either the RX or AX, in the bottom of the case. Just waiting for it's arrival.


Yep I knew I'd seen others talk about only using a 360 Rad to cool both







Glad to know I wasn't day dreaming again, I hate it when that happens LoL


----------

