# [Official] NZXT Kraken G10 Owner's Club



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Here is my Kraken with corsair H55 mounted on my evga gtx 780 sc. I also used the backplate from the artcic acclero cooler to help cool the vrms and memory. I re-tim'd with MX4
Max temps around 45C with a mild overclock of 1200 on gpu.


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## IMI4tth3w

bookmarked.

need to get pics and updates on the womans rig.

GTX 780 Ti ACX SC
Kraken G10
Corsair H90


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IMI4tth3w*
> 
> bookmarked.
> 
> need to get pics and updates on the womans rig.
> 
> GTX 780 Ti ACX SC
> Kraken G10
> Corsair H90


Welcome!


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## gopackersjt

I feel like we pioneered this thing MaCk-AtTaCk! We need to get all the guys from the Gigabyte 770 thread on here!

My G10 is on a Gigabyte 770 4gb rev. 1 paired with a Corsair H55. For crap loads of research on VRM and VRAM cooling, check out this thread!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1468486/nzxt-kraken-g10-and-gigabyte-770-gtx-4gb-will-it-fit





This was my solution to the VRM's throttling the card, and also keeping the VRAM cooler as well.



My best, stable bench I could get.


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Welcome!

Hey man I love the red! nice score!

Hope we can help fellow g10 owners


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## ldewitt

Oh yeah another Kraken G10 owner here!! I have it attached to my NON-Reference Gigabyte GTX 770OC 4GB 256-bit Rev. 2

On my Gigabyte GTX 770OC Rev. 2:

Added copper heatsinks to the VRAM, waiting for more copper heatsinks for my VRM.


Without overclock score max temp of 45c.


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Welcome idewitt! make sure to sign up !


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## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Welcome idewitt! make sure to sign up !


Did that before i posted


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

if you guys have any thoughts for the main page let me know!


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## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> if you guys have any thoughts for the main page let me know!


Compatibility is a nice touch we make a notice that some non-reference GPU's will work with this bracket even know they say there made for reference design.


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Good point, will do.


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## NvidiaFan29

Hey guys,

I'm having a big issue with the G10. I bought it along with a Kraken X60 to watercool my 780 ti classy. Everything fit and installed fine, but the problem is the temps are awful. I'm between 60-70 on idle and the system crashes if I try to run a benchmark. I thought it was maybe a thermal paste issue, I re-did the thermal paste with Arctic silver 5, but nothing improved. Everything seems to be in properly but my temps are still awful. Not sure what to do.


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## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaFan29*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm having a big issue with the G10. I bought it along with a Kraken X60 to watercool my 780 ti classy. Everything fit and installed fine, but the problem is the temps are awful. I'm between 60-70 on idle and the system crashes if I try to run a benchmark. I thought it was maybe a thermal paste issue, I re-did the thermal paste with Arctic silver 5, but nothing improved. Everything seems to be in properly but my temps are still awful. Not sure what to do.


I think your having the same problem i did, I thought it was tight enough, but infact it wasn't I had the same problem every time i turned heaven benchmarking on it crashed my driver+heaven and sent me back to the desktop. After pondering on it for a day i came back tighten the bracket down and voila never reached over 45c and benchmarking smooth as ever! Hope this helps let us know post some pics of your card also!!


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## quick1unc

Greetings,

I've been reading the forums here for a long time and lately I have been reading the gtx 770 4gb and kraken g10 thread. I went ahead and got one have been holding it for a few weeks, but decided to bite the bulllet and went ahead and ordered a h55 and copper ram sinks and I should have it installed next week. You guys have been a great help in making the decision and I can't wait to get mine installed and get some pics and benchmarks to post Cheers


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## NvidiaFan29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I think your having the same problem i did, I thought it was tight enough, but infact it wasn't I had the same problem every time i turned heaven benchmarking on it crashed my driver+heaven and sent me back to the desktop. After pondering on it for a day i came back tighten the bracket down and voila never reached over 45c and benchmarking smooth as ever! Hope this helps let us know post some pics of your card also!!


Looks like I was having the same problem as well. The bracket wasn't nearly tight enough. After tightening it up and restarting the temps are real good. Although, now I have another problem. I keep getting blue screens and crashes whenever I try to run something. Sigh. I hope I didn't ruin my card somehow...


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## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I've been reading the forums here for a long time and lately I have been reading the gtx 770 4gb and kraken g10 thread. I went ahead and got one have been holding it for a few weeks, but decided to bite the bulllet and went ahead and ordered a h55 and copper ram sinks and I should have it installed next week. You guys have been a great help in making the decision and I can't wait to get mine installed and get some pics and benchmarks to post Cheers


Glad we could help out, really gopackersjt was the test dummy but i guess we were both test dummies since i have rev. 2 and he has rev. 1 so we know both versions are good to go







Gota thank MaCk-AtTaCk for starting the thread and club also! Someone had to!








Have any questions just post back here and we'll help out the best we can!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaFan29*
> 
> Looks like I was having the same problem as well. The bracket wasn't nearly tight enough. After tightening it up and restarting the temps are real good. Although, now I have another problem. I keep getting blue screens and crashes whenever I try to run something. Sigh. I hope I didn't ruin my card somehow...


Is your card showing any bending? Did you put heat sinks on the VRAM, or are you sure that the fan on the kraken is blowing the right way? It has a arrow that tells which way the air flow is right on the side of the fan somewhere....Have you blue screen before? Do you know what blue screen is coming up? I'm a PC Tech so i know a little about windows errors so lay it on me! If i don't know then google will tell me


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaFan29*
> 
> Looks like I was having the same problem as well. The bracket wasn't nearly tight enough. After tightening it up and restarting the temps are real good. Although, now I have another problem. I keep getting blue screens and crashes whenever I try to run something. Sigh. I hope I didn't ruin my card somehow...


To add to idewitt, are you cooling your vrms or memory other then the fan on the kraken? If not that could be your prob. Especially if you have it overclocked at all.


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## NvidiaFan29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Glad we could help out, really gopackersjt was the test dummy but i guess we were both test dummies since i have rev. 2 and he has rev. 1 so we know both versions are good to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have any questions just post back here and we'll help out the best we can!
> Is your card showing any bending? Have you blue screen before? Do you know what blue screen is coming up? I'm a PC Tech so i know a little about windows errors so lay it on me! If i don't know then google will tell me


I shouldn't say blue screen. It was artifacting when I was running a benchmark and then crashed. Afterwards when I run a game the driver crashes to desktop. I've never had any problems with this card before. I reinstalled drivers and even rolledback to a previous version with no improvements. The PCB seems straight to me. Ill take some pics if that helps


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## NvidiaFan29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> To add to idewitt, are you cooling your vrms or memory other then the fan on the kraken? If not that could be your prob. Especially if you have it overclocked at all.


Yes I have heatsinks on them. Maybe thats the problem. But i'm running everything at stock settings. Interesting. When I get artifacting its usually because of memory issues when OC'ing.


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## ldewitt

That is weird your is like your card isn't stable even though its at a stock clock. I did a little OC'ing just now(i don't have heatsinks on the VRMs yet) and i couldn't get a stable clock to save my life higher than 3605:


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## NvidiaFan29

I took the heatsinks off and its still crashing.


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## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaFan29*
> 
> I took the heatsinks off and its still crashing.


Well how much thermal paste did you put on? i did a half pea size on mine. I hate to say this but if all else fails put the stock fan back and see if it keeps crashing, if it does i suggest RMA process! Make sure you clean everything up so it doesn't look like it was taken apart; not that they inspect it with a magnifying glass anyways....


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

So you said you have heatsinks on the memory. What about the vrms? Just checking.


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## off4124

EVGA GTX 770 2GB FTW (02G-P4-3772-B1)
















Prolimatech pk-3 nano aluminium thermal paste


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

welcome off4124,

Have you mounted your g10 yet? do you have any pics of it? dont forget to sign up on the front page!


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

made some changes to the main club members post along with a tips section. Let me know if anything else comes to mind


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## off4124

I think I don't need vrms heatsink ,


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *off4124*
> 
> I think I don't need vrms heatsink ,


yes you should defently put some on your vrms. if you look at your old gpu cooler you should be able to see were the thermal pads covered the memory and the vrms. i circled the vrm area on your card. You should really think about trying to put some heatsinks on there.



EDIT: sorry off2124... ment for a diffrent poster... Disregared my post.


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## Kinglame9000

This
2 Kraken's on 2 Gtx 780's. Primary(EVGA GTX 780 FTW) is using a Kraken X40 140mm rad, secondary(EVGA GTX 780 SC) is using a H55 120mm rad. Temps don't exceed 44 while gaming, touch 50 under extreme conditions in 3dmark. Both cards are running Skyn3t
bios.


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Welcome Kinglame2009! WOW very nice rig you have there!+ rep! Are you using any heatsinks on the memory or vrms? or does the fan plus backplate help enough? I love the color combo! Dont forget to sign up!


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## Tobiman

Here's mine. R9-290 with an nzxt X40.


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## Kinglame9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Welcome Kinglame2009! WOW very nice rig you have there!+ rep! Are you using any heatsinks on the memory or vrms? or does the fan plus backplate help enough? I love the color combo! Dont forget to sign up!


Ive got heatsinks around the GPU but didn't bother with the VRM's. The temps are lower than they would be using the stock heatsink due to all that heat getting drawn away at the pump. Its seemed fine so far and ive had it going for a few months now. Thanks by the way!


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Welcome Tobiman!, Love the backplate that you used on your R9. What kind of temps are you gettting? And dont forget to sign up!


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## Tobiman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Welcome Tobiman!, Love the backplate that you used on your R9. What kind of temps are you gettting? And dont forget to sign up!


Thanks! I currently have an OC of 150mhz on the core running with an additional 30mv. Core temps are usually in the 55-60s with vrms in the mid 60s mostly.


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## gopackersjt

We need to get an NZXT rep to check this thread out. There is already some valuable data they could take into account for a second version of the G10 (assuming they make one).


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## phenom01

I will be installing my NZXT X40's on my EVGA 4gb's this weekend. Will try to get some pics and results.


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phenom01*
> 
> I will be installing my NZXT X40's on my EVGA 4gb's this weekend. Will try to get some pics and results.


oooo I love the smell of new hardware in the morning!!! dont forget to sign up!


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## Yungbenny911

Finally an Owners Club







. I installed mine a while ago on my MSI Gaming N770's, and i've been super pleased with the results. Texas can get really hot during summer season, and this was the best solution to keep temps in check without breaking the bank (160$ for both GPU's)









*MAX clock speed i achieved in SLI (for now)
Single GPU: 1476Mhz (core)/ 1978Mhz (mem)
Dual GPU's: 1463Mhz (core)/ 1954Mhz (mem)*


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## Yungbenny911

And Please guys, while quoting someone, try to use SPOILERS on their IMAGES!!!. It would help make the thread easier to read through. It's annoying to scross through someone with 5 large images, only to scroll through the same images quoted by 3 people... That's 20 large images to scroll through









It would be much appreciated if you guys can go back and edit your post and put spoilers on the ones you quoted. A lot of people like myself would really appreciate it


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## shwarz

not sure if anybody else had issues with mounting the g10 on a r9 290

i couldnt get it attached with the stock screws

currently using zipties









well it works lol

50 max gpu temp


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## Spectre-

my R9 290 with H55 highest temp was 75 while benchmarking


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> And Please guys, while quoting someone, try to use SPOILERS on their IMAGES!!!. It would help make the thread easier to read through. It's annoying to scross through someone with 5 large images, only to scroll through the same images quoted by 3 people... That's 20 large images to scroll through
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be much appreciated if you guys can go back and edit your post and put spoilers on the ones you quoted. A lot of people like myself would really appreciate it


Will do and absolutley stunning rig man! I cant believe how nice your guys rigs are!


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## Kinglame9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> We need to get an NZXT rep to check this thread out. There is already some valuable data they could take into account for a second version of the G10 (assuming they make one).


For example. more quality control. The first one I ordered for another computer came with screws that were much to short. The second 2, (the red ones) came with no screws at all. Mad mad mad. Love the product, but wow. Ended up just running to home depot.


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## DavidLeeRoth

*Quiestion number one:*
Are all these induvidual black circuits in this picture inside the red square VRM circuits, thus need to be cooled with heatsinks?
(It's a Gigabyte GTX 770 OC 2BG model PCB)


*Question number two:*
Would you recommend cooling these circuits with couple of larger heatsinks or with individual smaller ones?

*Question number three:*
Will there be problems if you cover multiple VRM circuits with large heatsinks since they are electrically conductive and act as "electric bridge" between each other?

Thank you.


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## prznar1

I wonder if this will fit gtx 750 ti


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

@Yungbenny911
I fixed my previous 2 post were I had the pictures in my reply. thanks for pointing that out.


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## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> @Yungbenny911
> I fixed my previous 2 post were I had the pictures in my reply. thanks for pointing that out.


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## Dasboogieman

Heya

Newbie to this club, but for what its worth, I'll share my experiences for future enterprising owners.
I have mounted a Corsair H90 on to a Sapphire 290 Tri X using the G10. My case is the CM HAF 932 and my CPU cooler is the Noctua NH D14

1. MEASURE YOUR 120/140mm slot before getting an AIO. I have a HAF923 and the H90 doesn't actually fit in to the 140mm back slot (with hoses oriented towards the ground) with a Noctua NH D14, couldn't fit it sideways since the pump blocks the side panel from closing. In the end, I lashed the radiator in to the 5.25 inch bays. In hindsight, I would've purchased a 120mm radiator AIO knowing this.

2. AIO Hose length, more is better. I would advise against the H90 for future buyers, this is cost optimized for the CPU cooling thus the hose is 4 inches shorter than the Kraken X40 despite identical specs (both are identical Asetek units) This extra 4 inches would've allowed me to mount the rad at the rear with the hoses oriented towards the ceiling (thus not needing to be zip tied) and still use the NH D14.

3. Mounting: the bracket has to be mounted to the GPU with the AIO, I suggest clearing space in the case prior to doing this since this will ease the final insertion of the GPU + AIO assembly later. Only 2-3 turns of the screw driver is neccessary, the fit is quite snug, any more and you risk cracking the GPU die or warping the PCB.

Results
The Sapphire Tri X cooler was a brilliant design, the fans were placed in such a way that the air from the 3rd fan blows directly on to the VRM 1 area which was direct contact cooled with the whole heatsink frame.
Thus, at 50% fan speed (barely audible) the core is 72 degrees (ambient 22) and VRM1 is around (75 degrees), VRM 2 is 45 degrees in EVGA OC scanner (a variant of Furmark)

Kraken G10 + H90 with no additional VRM cooling
The overall noise is equivalent to the Tri X at 40% fan speed
The core never peaks above 45 degrees but VRM 1 hovers around 82 degrees, VRM 2 reaches 60 degrees in EVGA OC scanner

Thus, I strongly recommend aftermarket VRM heatsinks if you want to overclock or using high stress apps, while the 92mm fan does a respectable job, there's actually an air dead zone in the VRM 1 assembly which lies directly under the 92mm fan's motor. If any of you has seen the Puget systems review, I believe this manifests as the giant red spot on the thermal camera.
I recommend also either thermal adhesive (Arctic Alumina is the safest as I have read read 1 report of someone blowing a board fuse using excessive Arctic Silver adhesive) or a screw type heatsink assembly.
DON'T use Sekisui 5760 for the VRM1 area. This tape has maximum adhesion around the 50-60 degree temperature range, 70-80 starts to see a degradation in the bond as the glue becomes less viscous. debonding starts to happen at 90-100 degrees over repeated cycles.

Useful dimensions and features:
On a reference AMD board, the distance from the first screw hole centre to the second centre on the VRM 1 area is 85mm
The height clearance from the RAM chip to the NZXT bracket is ~5mm
The height clearance from the VRM 1 zone to the NXZT bracket is ~6mm
The width of the VRM area from the Choke to the nearest capacitor is 13mm
The whole assembly takes 2 slots.
The AMD VRMs are metallic and despite the size difference, are the exact same height.

I have just ordered the GELID Enhancement kit for 290X from these guys http://www.feppaspot.com/servlet/the-897/GELID-Solutions-Icy-Vision/Detail so I don't have to DIY my own VRM sink.


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Welcome dasboogieman!
Great post! That was alot of great info! I remeber when i had my r9 i was looking for a heatsink like geild one. But at that time they didnt have it. Glad they finally came out with one. Is it ok if I post that heatsink in the tips section?


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## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidLeeRoth*
> 
> *Quiestion number one:*
> Are all these induvidual black circuits in this picture inside the red square VRM circuits, thus need to be cooled with heatsinks?
> (It's a Gigabyte GTX 770 OC 2BG model PCB)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Question number two:*
> Would you recommend cooling these circuits with couple of larger heatsinks or with individual smaller ones?
> 
> *Question number three:*
> Will there be problems if you cover multiple VRM circuits with large heatsinks since they are electrically conductive and act as "electric bridge" between each other?
> 
> Thank you.


Question one: Yes those are the vrm modules, and if your not overclocking i don't think you should need heatsinks on them, however if it makes you uneasy i'd pick some heatsinks up for them; I bought mine for overclocking.

Question two:
It shouldn't matter as long as they are covered.

Question three:
No there wouldn't be a problem there, ASUS and other GPU makers use a single bridge heatsink to cool there vrm under there stock coolers.


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## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Welcome dasboogieman!
> Great post! That was alot of great info! I remeber when i had my r9 i was looking for a heatsink like geild one. But at that time they didnt have it. Glad they finally came out with one. Is it ok if I post that heatsink in the tips section?


sure thing


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## Naushis

This one is for the haters that cant let their optical drives go lol. Problem solved.



H110 Mounted to a EVGA 780 FTW with ACX cooler.



The big box o porn!


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## DavidLeeRoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> if your not overclocking i don't think you should need heatsinks on them.


I am going to overclock so then I'd better heatsink them.

Thank you so much for your answers!


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## Someone09

Ha, I totally forgot about this little thingy.

Yesterday, I decided that I full custom water loop just isn´t for me really and disassembled mine.
I am feeling kinda much more comfortable without it. But I miss the low GPU temps. But now I might consider one of those.


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## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidLeeRoth*
> 
> I am going to overclock so then I'd better heatsink them.
> 
> Thank you so much for your answers!


No Problem i'm rocking just the VRAM with heatsinks for now got a slight OC out of it but did already order the heatsinks for my VRMS, then i will try to reach better clocks with the card. Also I don't know if it was the maps i was playing in BF4 but i think my VRMS were getting hot and making my FPS drop to a halt for a second every now and again; don't think this happened with the stock cooler; Hope putting heatsinks on the VRMS fixes....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Ha, I totally forgot about this little thingy.
> 
> Yesterday, I decided that I full custom water loop just isn´t for me really and disassembled mine.
> I am feeling kinda much more comfortable without it. But I miss the low GPU temps. But now I might consider one of those.


Yeah this Kraken G10 quite amazing really, for those who feel more comfortable with Closed loop's that don't require maintenance(like me!) or those who don't quite have the money/time to put into a custom loop(also me!)

We are still working some of the kinks out of this thing but so far this thing has proven amazing; at least in my eyes for my 770!


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

naushis, Welcome to the club! WOW, your rig is a thing of beauty! If you want you should fill out your sig so we can see all that you have in that beast! Alos dont forget to sign up!


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## Lionvibez

I just installed a G10+Corsair H55 and performance is great. My VRM temps are great and I don't find the stock fans loud at all. Granted I have replaced the fan on the rad with my S-FLEX fan because it pushes more CFM.


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## Vendari

Hey!







add me to the club. I just installed my Kraken g10 over a couple of months ago then the _Legit Reviews_ thread was locked so i'm reposting here if you guys don't mind.
When I purchased the G10 I had no idea how much work I'd need to do to make it just the way I wanted it. So here's a summary of what I had to do.

Had to cut the rear part of case to get MoBo clearance and rad clearance.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








and i also had to add an acrylic panel to the back where i cut it so it doesn't look butt ugly.
i also had to paint it cause it was just leftover from a previous project.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








I also added foam spacers or whatever in between the panel and the case to prevent vibrations and what-not.
I used a re-purposed mouse pad and 3M double-sided adhesive.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Since I wanted to use the stock unisink with the G10 Bracket, I had to make some alterations.
Here are some before and after shots.

Before -


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








After -


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Then I thought I wanted the GPU to control the fan so I can fine tune noise and cfm without having to use speedfan.
So took the PWM fan header thingy from an old busted card I owned....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








And ghetto soldered it onto my SP120 PWM fan


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Since I didn't have a grille for the hole where my rad is, I got one from a very generous friend of mine. It's from an HEC PSU but it does the trick.
Wont have to worry about bent fins so much now.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









And here's the rear of my RV03 with the grille installed and 2 cable management clips I discovered at a local hardware store.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I also had to file of the bolts' standoffs from the ones that came with the G10 cause the bolts/screws were too short. *(no pics)*

Aaaannnd Here's the system after assembly:
One before I cleaned it and the other during bench-marking.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








So here's are 2 screenies of the Unigine Heaven 4.0 Benchmark:
Both at aprox. 29-30°c ambient temps

Air-Cooled - approx 64-68°c temperatures at approx 41-44db noise


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







AIO Watercooled - approx 44-47°c temperatures at approx 24-27db noise


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Keep in mind that ambient temps were about *29-30°c* during noontime here, as I live in the Philippines. And I ran Heaven 4.0 at the maximum possible setting with all the bells and whistles.

So, does it compare to custom water-cooling loops? Yes and No.
It can't give you the performance of custom WC loops. But it is competitive with the entry level solutions.
What I love about this is the maintenance free and relatively low-cost AIO solution that I can use with my graphics card as well as my CPU.
And although I am immensely satisfied with this product, I believe that to get it to work without a hitch you might have to do alot more work than what NZXT advertised. My biggest gripe was the shortness of the screws, my biggest thumbs up would have to be the compatibility (of cards and AIO coolers) and the workmanship (solid, doesn't bend and didn't scratch despite my manhandling).

So that's that. And thanks for reading


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## Vendari

Here's a benchmark I did just now.


Aaaaaaaand here's a couple of photos of my rig and setup. Forgive the poor lighting and the bad camera. Believe me, I did a good job taking it XD Camara wasn't meant for dark shots after all


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Vendari,
As the great Darth Vader once said "impressive!...Most impressive!...."
Seriously thanks for all the info! I remeber reading about that several months ago. You did alot of work but it sure turned out nice. If you want you can sign up on the main club post.
Oh and another thing I believe NZXT is sending out longer screws with the new shipment of g10s. atleast thats what the rep told me when I asked.
thanks mack,
+ rep for all the helpfull info my friend !


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## ldewitt

Nice rig glad to have you post that here. I also had to do a little rearranging customization to my setup in order for this to work, but clearly not as much as yourself! Thanks for the post!!


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## Someone09

OK, I gotta admit that thing got me really curious. (Which usually means I might end up buying one. lol)

Anyway, I was just wondering if I anybody ever compared the results between using like a x40 or H55 vs something like a H100i or x60.


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## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> OK, I gotta admit that thing got me really curious. (Which usually means I might end up buying one. lol)
> 
> Anyway, I was just wondering if I anybody ever compared the results between using like a x40 or H55 vs something like a H100i or x60.


From what I gathered prob run 5 to 10C hotter with the h55 or x40 vs the h100/x60. For exaple I get around 45C on average with my h55. Which is still really good. I suppose if I hade a h100 prob get around 40C. Any one else have any thoughts on this?
The G10 is a great way to get into the world of watercooling with out breaking the bank and hassle of the full on loops.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

oh and just an update, Ill try to add some of the great tips you guys have been posting to the tips section of the main club post. I will also make sure credit is given were credit is do .


----------



## Vendari

Thanks guys, Always glad to help.







And about the screws, I don't think they'd send screws all the way to my country. Besides, I had already taken everything apart and was anxious to put it all together. As for the H55 vs x40 vs H100i vs x60... You'll see around a 5-10°c going from single rad to double rad. If you think it's worth the money and space then go for it. If not the H55 and the x40 are already good choices. I prefer the H55 because the rad is thick enough and I can smack a SP120PWM on it. I don't run the fan at 100% though (doesn't get hot enough for fan to ramp up that much) 'cause I got the G10 so it'd be silent as well as cool.

Here's my fan profile (EVGA Precision X):


Off-topic though, if all the hype is true about these fans... I might just switch over from my SP120s if what they have on paper is true.
http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/press_b_1&no=59


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> OK, I gotta admit that thing got me really curious. (Which usually means I might end up buying one. lol)
> 
> Anyway, I was just wondering if I anybody ever compared the results between using like a x40 or H55 vs something like a H100i or x60.


I can't imagine you would see better performance compairing "H100i or x60" or "x40 or H55". But between x40 to H100i or H55 to x60 yes I'd imagine the bigger radiator would effect better temperatures for a longer period of time. I hear that the Kraken x series has longer hoses also by about 4 inches or so.


----------



## Someone09

They do.
Or at least they did compared to the H100i/H80.
But I think the newer units (H110/H105) have longer ones, too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> The G10 is a great way to get into the world of watercooling with out breaking the bank and hassle of the full on loops.


Or get away from a custom loop.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> They do.
> Or at least they did compared to the H100i/H80.
> But I think the newer units (H110/H105) have longer ones, too.
> Or get away from a custom loop.


tru, lol that too!


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Just a heads up guys,
the g10 club thread is having some technical issues. If you may have noticed 7posts have poped up before the main club post. I didnt even notice but ocn staff were nice enough to point it out. They are also in the works of fixing the issue. Just thought Id let you know whats going on.
thanks,
mack


----------



## gopackersjt

It's kinda buggy on the mobile site to. I can't he past the member chart on my phone. (HTC One M7, android 4.4, chrome)


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

ok looks like they got it fixed, thanks ocn staff and to twerk for the help!


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> It's kinda buggy on the mobile site to. I can't he past the member chart on my phone. (HTC One M7, android 4.4, chrome)


hey man,
check the site now, how is it?


----------



## gopackersjt

It still isn't working quite right. I need to switch to desktop view, go to the second page, and then go back to mobile view to read the comments. It's not really a big deal, just something to point out.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> It still isn't working quite right. I need to switch to desktop view, go to the second page, and then go back to mobile view to read the comments. It's not really a big deal, just something to point out.


It's a known issue relating to embedded Google spreadsheets.

If you could post your concerns here it would be much appreciated:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1477953/google-spreadsheet-bugs-mobile-view/0_30


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> It's a known issue relating to embedded Google spreadsheets.
> 
> If you could post your concerns here it would be much appreciated:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1477953/google-spreadsheet-bugs-mobile-view/0_30


is it ok if I use the google spreadsheets? dont want to create any problems.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> is it ok if I use the google spreadsheets? dont want to create any problems.


Yeah, it's fine. You don't have to worry.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

updated tips section with dasboogiemans tips.


----------



## Naushis

I haven't seen my 780 go over 44 with the fans on low and a +100 offset on the H110. Also in an air starved H440. Very happy!


----------



## ldewitt

That's awesome I for one am glad nzxt made bracket.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I have just ordered the GELID Enhancement kit for 290X from these guys http://www.feppaspot.com/servlet/the-897/GELID-Solutions-Icy-Vision/Detail so I don't have to DIY my own VRM sink.


I think you would help us all out if you let us know the dementions of the vrm heatsink(length, width, height) along with how far apart them screw holes are. I would like a whole piece heatsink as would others, this may fit other cards at least it may for the gigabyte gtx 770 screws holes look similar(paralelle with each other).

Thanks.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> Here's a benchmark I did just now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Curious wonder why your score is as high as what mine was with a slight OC, and higher than my stock?? Lol jealous...


----------



## Vendari

I'm not really sure man. Maybe because my card is factory overclocked. But it isn't as high as your OC either. *shrug* my score IS lower than yours though. But I've noticed a noticeable increase in performance after I watercooled it.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> I'm not really sure man. Maybe because my card is factory overclocked. But it isn't as high as your OC either. *shrug* my score IS lower than yours though. But I've noticed a noticeable increase in performance after I watercooled it.


Yeah but my card is supposedly factory OC also, and the score is only higher because i OC'd it more lol


----------



## Vendari

I'd say luck of the draw. I don't overclock my GPU often (only when recording in-game footage) but I am successful at higher clocks. I just don't OC my 680 'cause I might wanna sell it to upgrade :3


----------



## ldewitt

Right well i'm waiting for my vrm heatsinks then ill see what i can do with mine!


----------



## TheoS53

I really wanna get hold of one of these bad boys...but in white...seems like everywhere is out of stock


----------



## Vendari

Thats why I used (modded) the stock unisink of my 680. I felt that a large heatsink which I could tighten on the pcb would do a better job at dissipating the heat with the help of the stock 92mm fan. And it does







if I need more vrm cooling i'll just slap on a higher rpm fan.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoS53*
> 
> I really wanna get hold of one of these bad boys...but in white...seems like everywhere is out of stock


Newegg. Usually in stock All 3 colors are in stock as of posting this. Same price as NZXT (with 3.99 shipping).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=kraken+g10&N=-1&isNodeId=1


----------



## TheoS53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Newegg. Usually in stock All 3 colors are in stock as of posting this. Same price as NZXT (with 3.99 shipping).
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=kraken+g10&N=-1&isNodeId=1


Dude, thanks for that.

Does anyone know if this will fit the Gigabyte 270X?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

If you look at the compatabilty list on the main page it says it does.


----------



## TheoS53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> If you look at the compatabilty list on the main page it says it does.


I checked, it says it's compatible with the 270x....but the gigabyte 270x is quite a bit bigger than the sapphire 270x for example


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

I dont think it would matter. Should still have the same holes sperated around gpu. You could email nzxt to make sure.


----------



## kojackcheese

Hey all, just FINALLY got my g10 and x60 that have been on backorder! Installed pretty easy, but i have a problem. I was already using an x40 on my cpu, now, kraken control is controlling them both with the same preset, and im not sure which temp reading it is displaying. Ive seen quite a few builds where people are running multiple krakens, so my question is, how do you guys get independent control of each cooler?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Welcome cojackcheese! Ill see if i cant find sone info on that. Hopfully some mebers with the kraken coolers will chime in. And dont forget to sign up.


----------



## kojackcheese

Thanks, I really dont even care if they HAVE to run off the same preset, as long as it uses my gpu temps for said preset as it is the hottest thing in my build. Again, I would prefer independent control, but would settle if it simply isnt possible.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kojackcheese*
> 
> Thanks, I really dont even care if they HAVE to run off the same preset, as long as it uses my gpu temps for said preset as it is the hottest thing in my build. Again, I would prefer independent control, but would settle if it simply isnt possible.


Just did alittle google shearching and supossdly you just have to update to the newest version of kraken control software. There saying the newest version you can change both. Let me know if it works


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

https://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/83-kraken-x60-cpu-cooler
There u go ! Go under download section and get the lates control software


----------



## kojackcheese

i have v 1.6 but i dont see independent controls... i even tried uninstalling and reinstalling... thus, i am at a loss


----------



## kojackcheese

yeah, that is the version i have, but it only displays 1 cpu temp, and 1 liquid temp. I dont know if it is simply taking averages, or if it is completely ignoring one of my coolers readings... when looking at my graphs, it would appear that it is displaying two temps there, but i cant seem to set cooler specific settings for the fans...


----------



## kojackcheese

I think I found my answer in another overclock.net thread. It would seem that OHM has some difficulties displaying temps at times which is why only 1 temp is being displayed for me, also the fan settings dont run off core temps, but instead run off the liquid temps which is absolutely absurd, and i may instead route all my fans through a fan controller with different software instead. Also, that liquid temp appears to be an average across all coolers, which is also unhelpful. NZXT really dropped the ball on this software, and will hopefully update it with better fixes soon...


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kojackcheese*
> 
> I think I found my answer in another overclock.net thread. It would seem that OHM has some difficulties displaying temps at times which is why only 1 temp is being displayed for me, also the fan settings dont run off core temps, but instead run off the liquid temps which is absolutely absurd, and i may instead route all my fans through a fan controller with different software instead. Also, that liquid temp appears to be an average across all coolers, which is also unhelpful. NZXT really dropped the ball on this software, and will hopefully update it with better fixes soon...


Well I have to say its not only NZXT dropping the ball on there monitoring software. I have an Antec Kuhler 920 and i find it a piece of crap.(EDIT: THE SOFTWARE IS A PIECE OF CRAP THE COOLER ROCKS!) Not to mention i contacted antec about getting a second 920 or even a 620 and wondered if i could control both coolers with there software, the response i got was no it's not possible with our software. Which is a load of s... since these things aren't cheap!!(Neither are those krakens!)

So KoJackcheese don't feel alone i to would also like to control 2 Coolers with one software! LOL I decided since i got a half a#$ answer from antec about there software that i went with a Corsair H55 instead of a Kuhler 920 or 620. I wish there was a software for the H55, but for the price i'm satisfied.


----------



## gopackersjt

The software with my H100i is pretty solid, but the H100i won't work with a G10 :/


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> The software with my H100i is pretty solid, but the H100i won't work with a G10 :/


You think the corsair link software will work with my H55?


----------



## Shine6

Hi,

Link reports Pump speed and coolant temp on Corsair specific models only:

- H80(i)
-H100(i)

On other (Asetek based) models, you'll get nothing special.

You can control several fans through the use of Link Commander/Cooling node, but this is extra HW (I have one).

Link can also access motherboard fan readings, but I don't recommand it. The SW is still alpha stage and not realiable at all.


----------



## Shine6

Guys,

Fot those like me with a reference Radeon R9 290(X), Gelid has made available their VRM kit for R9 290:

http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=13&id=108

This is pretty good for VRM cooling. I have a modded version of a former Gelid kit on my R9 290, and this is quite OK - VRM temp doesn't go rise than 70°C on load.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shine6*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Fot those like me with a reference Radeon R9 290(X), Gelid has made available their VRM kit for R9 290:
> 
> http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=13&id=108
> 
> This is pretty good for VRM cooling. I have a modded version of a former Gelid kit on my R9 290, and this is quite OK - VRM temp doesn't go rise than 70°C on load.


Someone else had mentioned the kit above for there 290X, I was wondering if you could post the dementions of the VRM heatsink(height, length, and width) and also the length between the screw holes, i've been looking for a more solid solution than putting a bunch of stick on copper heatinks for my VRMS.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Just installed the GELID kit

Core temperatures peak at 48 degrees with +113mv offset

VRM 1
Initially 85 degrees peak under EVGA OC scanner with stock settings. Realized 92mm fan wasn't plugged in.

Plugged in, temperatures peak at around 70 degrees at stock. about 80 degrees when overclocked to +113mv offset.

these results are not normally possible unless the Tri-X fans are set to 65%-75% which also makes the card very hair dryer-like loud. Now, the card sounds like the Tri-X card at 30% fan.

VRM 2
slightly worse than the standard cooler with a peak at 60 degrees.

Improvements
Will look in to possibly getting the 2200RPM Noctua 92mm fan for more CFM or making a shroud to limit air bleed from the fans so more washes over the HS.
Also ordered some Fujiploy 17W/mK thermal pads, my calculations estimate only a 3 degree temperature drop over the current 5W/mK ones unless I can reduce contact distance between the HS and the VRMs. Eventually, the bottleneck will be the tiny heat transfer area of the VRMs themselves.


----------



## Shine6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Someone else had mentioned the kit above for there 290X, I was wondering if you could post the dementions of the VRM heatsink(height, length, and width) and also the length between the screw holes, i've been looking for a more solid solution than putting a bunch of stick on copper heatinks for my VRMS.


In fact I modded an former version, not the new kit for 290/290X. I don't have the new version, though some other guys may have it already ...

Here are some pictures & infos on the mod I made:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1445970/legitreviews-nzxt-announces-kraken-g10-liquid-cooled-gpu-mounting-kit/1090#post_21788011

If you want, I can measure the dimension of my modded heatsink.


----------



## ldewitt

Yeah if you could Ill probably ending up modding my also to get it to fit.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> You think the corsair link software will work with my H55?


No it won't. You literally have to plug the H100i block in through a mini usb, to a open usb header on your motherboard. The H55 doesn't have any way to communicate with your computer.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> No it won't. You literally have to plug the H100i block in through a mini usb, to a open usb header on your motherboard. The H55 doesn't have any way to communicate with your computer.


Quite **** if you ask me...non the less still satisfied with Liquid cooler for $54 shipped









Just ordered my FX-8350 from Superbiiz.com for $181 cheapest i've found it.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Hmm i guess i dont know what to say?.. maybe try to get onto nzxt chat. There online during buisness hours.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Just installed the GELID kit
> 
> Core temperatures peak at 48 degrees with +113mv offset
> 
> VRM 1
> Initially 85 degrees peak under EVGA OC scanner with stock settings. Realized 92mm fan wasn't plugged in.
> 
> Plugged in, temperatures peak at around 70 degrees at stock. about 80 degrees when overclocked to +113mv offset.
> 
> these results are not normally possible unless the Tri-X fans are set to 65%-75% which also makes the card very hair dryer-like loud. Now, the card sounds like the Tri-X card at 30% fan.
> 
> VRM 2
> slightly worse than the standard cooler with a peak at 60 degrees.
> 
> Improvements
> Will look in to possibly getting the 2200RPM Noctua 92mm fan for more CFM or making a shroud to limit air bleed from the fans so more washes over the HS.
> Also ordered some Fujiploy 17W/mK thermal pads, my calculations estimate only a 3 degree temperature drop over the current 5W/mK ones unless I can reduce contact distance between the HS and the VRMs. Eventually, the bottleneck will be the tiny heat transfer area of the VRMs themselves.


As i asked before can we get the mesurements of that vrms heatsink you got from GELID? Length, height, width? Also length between screw holes?


----------



## Stratys

Hey guys I just made an account here to see if I could get some of your opinions. Looking to get one of these G10's along with an H90 to pair up with my ASUS GTX770 to help alleviate the rising temps that come with summer. I was nearly sold until I started reading about potential VRM overheating. I'm wondering if this is something I should worry about with the 770 since the majority of the complaints I've seen have come from AMD cards. I'm not sure what else to ask at this point so any advice would be welcome.

Also kinda unrelated but if I go through with this I'm going to go ahead and upgrade my overall cooling; switching from my HAF X case(really don't need the drive space) case to a Corsair Air 540, upgrading from my relatively ancient H70(in use since mid-2010) to a H110 along with the aforementioned plan for my GPU. I'm hoping to get my setup cooler, quieter and smaller.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stratys*
> 
> Hey guys I just made an account here to see if I could get some of your opinions. Looking to get one of these G10's along with an H90 to pair up with my ASUS GTX770 to help alleviate the rising temps that come with summer. I was nearly sold until I started reading about potential VRM overheating. I'm wondering if this is something I should worry about with the 770 since the majority of the complaints I've seen have come from AMD cards. I'm not sure what else to ask at this point so any advice would be welcome.
> 
> Also kinda unrelated but if I go through with this I'm going to go ahead and upgrade my overall cooling; switching from my HAF X case(really don't need the drive space) case to a Corsair Air 540, upgrading from my relatively ancient H70(in use since mid-2010) to a H110 along with the aforementioned plan for my GPU. I'm hoping to get my setup cooler, quieter and smaller.


VRM cooling is fine with the included fan as long as you don't overclock. if you want to overclock, put those small VRM heat sinks on and you're good to go.

Myself and a few others did a little experimenting on this thread with a Gigabyte 770.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1468486/nzxt-kraken-g10-and-gigabyte-770-gtx-4gb-will-it-fit

If you're lucky, some Asus cards actually already have a heat sink under the main heat sink cooling the VRM's, so you might not even have the issue at all.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> VRM cooling is fine with the included fan as long as you don't overclock. if you want to overclock, put those small VRM heat sinks on and you're good to go.
> 
> Myself and a few others did a little experimenting on this thread with a Gigabyte 770.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1468486/nzxt-kraken-g10-and-gigabyte-770-gtx-4gb-will-it-fit
> 
> If you're lucky, some Asus cards actually already have a heat sink under the main heat sink cooling the VRM's, so you might not even have the issue at all.


You beat me to it







Anyways heres my 2 cents(about the same):
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stratys*
> 
> Hey guys I just made an account here to see if I could get some of your opinions. Looking to get one of these G10's along with an H90 to pair up with my ASUS GTX770 to help alleviate the rising temps that come with summer. I was nearly sold until I started reading about potential VRM overheating. I'm wondering if this is something I should worry about with the 770 since the majority of the complaints I've seen have come from AMD cards. I'm not sure what else to ask at this point so any advice would be welcome.
> 
> Also kinda unrelated but if I go through with this I'm going to go ahead and upgrade my overall cooling; switching from my HAF X case(really don't need the drive space) case to a Corsair Air 540, upgrading from my relatively ancient H70(in use since mid-2010) to a H110 along with the aforementioned plan for my GPU. I'm hoping to get my setup cooler, quieter and smaller.


First I'd like to say you've come to the right place we'll help you out as much as possible.









Anyways I'd like to know the exact model of your card. IE: Mine is Gigabyte GTX 770OC 4GB Rev.2.

I noticed while searching for heatsinks for my card that the ASUS GTX 770 model already has a heatsink for the VRM's, since its actually manufactured for your card now i think you would have the best results out of all of us.





^^^this brings me back to the what your exact model is i want to make sure yours is the model that is stock with a VRM heatsink.

As for the upgrade to bigger Closed loop cooler, that's all a matter of opinion and space you'll have in your case i would think.

Hope this helps let us know if you have any other questions!


----------



## Stratys

Thanks for the quick replies. As for the card model it's the ASUS GTX770-DC2OC-2GD5. After quickly checking the exterior of my card I'm fairly confident my card features that heatsink, awesome. Wouldn't of had known without those pictures you posted since I haven't looked under the hood of my card yet. Took a picture of part of the heatsink that I compared with your photo to confirm it was indeed there.



Another question, would I be able to keep using my backplate with the G10?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> As i asked before can we get the mesurements of that vrms heatsink you got from GELID? Length, height, width? Also length between screw holes?


Height clearance 8mm (you can probably go 2mm above the height of the choke)
Screw centre to screw centre length 84mm
Width can be up to 13mm (from a choke to the nearest capacitor)
Thermal Pad clearance is 1mm


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stratys*
> 
> Thanks for the quick replies. As for the card model it's the ASUS GTX770-DC2OC-2GD5. After quickly checking the exterior of my card I'm fairly confident my card features that heatsink, awesome. Wouldn't of had known without those pictures you posted since I haven't looked under the hood of my card yet. Took a picture of part of the heatsink that I compared with your photo to confirm it was indeed there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question, would I be able to keep using my backplate with the G10?


Great! And What holds the backplate on?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Height clearance 8mm (you can probably go 2mm above the height of the choke)
> Screw centre to screw centre length 84mm
> Width can be up to 13mm (from a choke to the nearest capacitor)
> Thermal Pad clearance is 1mm


I measured center of hole to center of hole and its 86mm, I think Im gona jump into ordering this next Friday, and see if it will fit to me seems it will work can't wait! Thanks for the measurements!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Great! And What holds the backplate on?
> I measured center of hole to center of hold and its 86mm, I think Im gona jump into ordering this next Friday, and see if it will fit to me seems it will work can't wait! Thanks for the measurements!


Good luck, this GELID enhancement cooler for the 290x fits perfectly with the G10. Even the the little RAM HS was well designed to be placed on the bottom most RAM chip which is partially covered by the mounting bracket


----------



## melodystyle2003

Guys what temps you get with an gtx770-780 using 1.3-1.35V (please give ambient temp and screenshot if possible)?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *melodystyle2003*
> 
> Guys what temps you get with an gtx770-780 using 1.3-1.35V (please give ambient temp and screenshot if possible)?


Waiting for VRM heatsinks before adjusting the voltage. Just speaking on behalf of my self.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Waiting for VRM heatsinks before adjusting the voltage. Just speaking on behalf of my self.


Great you do well. With 1.212V what you temps you see?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *melodystyle2003*
> 
> Great you do well. With 1.212V what you temps you see?


If 1.212v is stock then my GPU temp i don't exceed 45c in Unigine Heaven Benchmark. Haven't monitored the VRM or VRAM temps though(Although I have heatsinks on the VRAM already, currently waiting on more for the VRMS)

This is with my "Gigabyte GTX 770OC 4GB Rev. 2"


----------



## Stratys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Great! And What holds the backplate on?


I believe it is just held by screws around the edge of the card.

Anyways I placed the order for my G10 this morning, it will be paired up with an H90. Excited too see how much it takes off the high end on my 770, I'm topping around +\-60c while playing with the stock cooler right now(@1200MHz, max voltage 1.212v). Also went ahead and got the H110 for my CPU and the Air540 Case.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> If 1.212v is stock then my GPU temp i don't exceed 45c in Unigine Heaven Benchmark. Haven't monitored the VRM or VRAM temps though(Although I have heatsinks on the VRAM already, currently waiting on more for the VRMS)
> 
> This is with my "Gigabyte GTX 770OC 4GB Rev. 2"


Stock is 1.2V if not lower. With H55 these temps, i see. Was expecting something better. Thank you.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *melodystyle2003*
> 
> Stock is 1.2V if not lower. With H55 these temps, i see. Was expecting something better. Thank you.


Yeah this is with the H55. Yeah idle is around 33-35c I can browse the internet and do basic tasks and it doesn't go above 35c. Still good temps.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stratys*
> 
> I believe it is just held by screws around the edge of the card.
> 
> Anyways I placed the order for my G10 this morning, it will be paired up with an H90. Excited too see how much it takes off the high end on my 770, I'm topping around +\-60c while playing with the stock cooler right now(@1200MHz, max voltage 1.212v). Also went ahead and got the H110 for my CPU and the Air540 Case.


I think you should be able to keep your backplate because the only thing that holds the kraken g10 on is the 4 screws that hold the liquid cooler to your gpu that's it. They come with pads but i took that crap off because i couldn't tighten the bracket down enough with them on.


----------



## Wakalakaz

I recently purchased a reference R9 290X. Plugged it in with the reference cooler for a day or 2, and OH MY GOD the temps were horrendous, were talking 90 degC and throttling performance in graphically timid games like WoW. I knew that I was going to replace the cooler with a kraken when i bought it, but it surprised me how bad the reference cooler actually was.

Last night i took of the stock cooler, slapped on some VRM heatsinks and attached a kraken with an Corsair H55. The temperature difference was insane. When playing wow temps are around 45 degC and the highest i saw in an all night gaming session was 52 degC. Not only were the temps way better but i gained 30-40 frames in CoD Blops2 and other games showed great performance increases as well. Turns out the card was down throttling HARD with the reference cooler and killing ites perfromance. Cant wait to overclock it tonight and see how high i can push it. The G10 saved my card, it is by far the best way to cool you GPU without a custom loop.

Oh, also i painted the kraken g10 blue to match my build. Real easy mod, sanded down the existing paint to rough it up, applied 2-3 coats of blue spray paint over a day or 2. The NZXT text is covered but if you were real careful with some painters tape you could probably keep it.

i.imgur.com/H686tCu.jpg

One last thing. Does anyone know what the difference between VRM 1 and VRM2 is in GPU-Z, my VRM 1 is staying around the low 50's but my VRM2 is up around 60. I put small heatsinks on the strip of VRM mosfets, but no where else. Did i miss some of the VRMs that need to be cooled for VRM2? Ill attach a picture of where i put hte heatsinks.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> I recently purchased a reference R9 290X. Plugged it in with the reference cooler for a day or 2, and OH MY GOD the temps were horrendous, were talking 90 degC and throttling performance in graphically timid games like WoW. I knew that I was going to replace the cooler with a kraken when i bought it, but it surprised me how bad the reference cooler actually was.
> 
> Last night i took of the stock cooler, slapped on some VRM heatsinks and attached a kraken with an Corsair H55. The temperature difference was insane. When playing wow temps are around 45 degC and the highest i saw in an all night gaming session was 52 degC. Not only were the temps way better but i gained 30-40 frames in CoD Blops2 and other games showed great performance increases as well. Turns out the card was down throttling HARD with the reference cooler and killing ites perfromance. Cant wait to overclock it tonight and see how high i can push it. The G10 saved my card, it is by far the best way to cool you GPU without a custom loop.
> 
> Oh, also i painted the kraken g10 blue to match my build. Real easy mod, sanded down the existing paint to rough it up, applied 2-3 coats of blue spray paint over a day or 2. The NZXT text is covered but if you were real careful with some painters tape you could probably keep it.
> 
> i.imgur.com/H686tCu.jpg
> 
> One last thing. Does anyone know what the difference between VRM 1 and VRM2 is in GPU-Z, my VRM 1 is staying around the low 50's but my VRM2 is up around 60. I put small heatsinks on the strip of VRM mosfets, but no where else. Did i miss some of the VRMs that need to be cooled for VRM2? Ill attach a picture of where i put hte heatsinks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome glad to welcome another kraken owner! You see on your stock cooler to the left of it theres thermal pads shaped as a "T", match that to where it was contacting your card and that should be where the VRM2 is located.


----------



## ldewitt

Didn't think my last post went through^^


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Yeah this is with the H55. Yeah idle is around 33-35c I can browse the internet and do basic tasks and it doesn't go above 35c. Still good temps.


Temps are great for sure. I am looking for something that worth the $$$ cause it will replace the xtreme cooler 3, which keeps my gpu oc'ed to 1100/[email protected] under 50oC while gaming, 63oC on benches with 1.24V (much higher clocks) and under 28-29oC on browsing (ambient 21-24oC). Don't know if any of the H55-75-90 with kraken G10 will hold my gpu under 45oC on heaviest scenario with lets say 1.3V. Opinions?


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Awesome glad to welcome another kraken owner! You see on your stock cooler to the left of it theres thermal pads shaped as a "T", match that to where it was contacting your card and that should be where the VRM2 is located.


Ahh thanks man, i have some of the smaller heatsinks left i can put on there easy. Glad that they are easy to get to and i dont have to take it off and put it on again. The install took 4 hands for me lol.


----------



## ldewitt

No problem glad to help!


----------



## robotninja

Finally got around to installing mine.

Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer on a Sapphire 7950 with a shim.

Stress testing only got to around 45 but only ran for about 15 minutes before I wanted to button the pc back up. Played Farcry 3 for about an hour and capped out at 51. I am also using Artic Silver 5 so it may drop a bit once the paste has cured.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robotninja*
> 
> Finally got around to installing mine.
> 
> Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer on a Sapphire 7950 with a shim.
> 
> Stress testing only got to around 45 but only ran for about 15 minutes before I wanted to button the pc back up. Played Farcry 3 for about an hour and capped out at 51. I am also using Artic Silver 5 so it may drop a bit once the paste has cured.


I used antec formula 7 nano diamond on both my gpu and cpu. Just upgraded to a fx-8350 today. I to think I will get better temperatures onces cured im prime 95ing my cpu right now. I hear curing doesn't cool your temps by more than 2c but that's only what i hear.


----------



## Obi-Shinobi

The Corsair H50 (tall pump version) will not work with the bracket. Found this out the hard way, the small pump version is supposed to fit but I don't have that version to test. You may want to add that to your OP. I'm going to buy an Thermaltake water 3.0 pro, I'll post pictures when I get it.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obi-Shinobi*
> 
> The Corsair H50 (tall pump version) will not work with the bracket. Found this out the hard way, the small pump version is supposed to fit but I don't have that version to test. You may want to add that to your OP. I'm going to buy an Thermaltake water 3.0 pro, I'll post pictures when I get it.


Ok will do. Is the tall one the very first cooler corsair made? That sucks man. I hope you get your replacment soon.


----------



## Obi-Shinobi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Ok will do. Is the tall one the very first cooler corsair made? That sucks man. I hope you get your replacment soon.


Must be the first version of the H50, I bought it back in 2011 to cool my old AMD Phenom II black edition CPU. Worked well might I add.


----------



## ldewitt

Just wondering what makes the tall one not work?


----------



## Obi-Shinobi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Just wondering what makes the tall one not work?


I found this thread after I was unable to mount it to the bracket. I probably should have added it to my first post.

http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=58416&page=2

edit: I didn't want to try any of the workarounds in that thread the one poster suggested, i'd rather not ruin this H50. Might use it for another build for a family member or friend.


----------



## ldewitt

So the teeth on the cooler doesn't line up with the teeth on the bracket? I guess i don't understand and am not about to look around that site for why lol


----------



## Obi-Shinobi

The reason the first-gen H50 (couldn't speak for the second-gen) doesn't fit the Kraken G10 is that the plastic bezel around the mounting points is too thick, which prevents the unit from sliding past the mounting 'teeth' on the G10. Apart from that, the teeth will meet up with the mounting points, and it will fit. But you have to get it through first.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obi-Shinobi*
> 
> The reason the first-gen H50 (couldn't speak for the second-gen) doesn't fit the Kraken G10 is that the plastic bezel around the mounting points is too thick, which prevents the unit from sliding past the mounting 'teeth' on the G10. Apart from that, the teeth will meet up with the mounting points, and it will fit. But you have to get it through first.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah I c now...

You missed out Newegg had the H55 $54 shipped to your door a couple weeks ago.


----------



## Obi-Shinobi

I wasn't really looking to buy AIO until last night, I didn't know this wasn't going to work. Like I said before this cooler is 3 years old now. I was looking at the H55 last night, still fairly cheap. Still leaning towards the Thermaltake pro 3.0 actually.

I should email NZXT and let them know they should update the specs to exclude the first gen H50.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Ah I c now...
> 
> You missed out Newegg had the H55 $54 shipped to your door a couple weeks ago.


$45 after mail-in rebate*. That's the one i got : ) great deal for it.


----------



## Obi-Shinobi

Just a bit more info on the H50, here are the product names and part numbers.

*Will not fit with the G10 bracket:* Hydro Series™ H50 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler-CWCH50-1

*Will fit with the G10 bracket:* Hydro Series™ H50 Quiet CPU Cooler-CW-9060006-WW

They are both purchasable on the corsair website so be careful if you are buying this for the G10.


----------



## Shine6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Yeah if you could Ill probably ending up modding my also to get it to fit.


Here it is (modded heatsink)



It is 13mm high, 21mm large. Distance between screw holes is about 87mm.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shine6*
> 
> Here it is (modded heatsink)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is 13mm high, 21mm large. Distance between screw holes is about 87mm.


Wow your really close to them modules! But I should be ordering the kit next week sometime; any change on another source to buy this? I can't find it in stock....


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obi-Shinobi*
> 
> I wasn't really looking to buy AIO until last night, I didn't know this wasn't going to work. Like I said before this cooler is 3 years old now. I was looking at the H55 last night, still fairly cheap. Still leaning towards the Thermaltake pro 3.0 actually.
> 
> I should email NZXT and let them know they should update the specs to exclude the first gen H50.


Hell yeah might as well go with the Thermaltake pro 3.0 a little more yet but looks like a thicker radiator, also has 2 fans wish i had the screws to mound a second fan to this fkin H55 gona try a hardware store to see if i can find some more screws.


----------



## Shine6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Wow your really close to them modules! But I should be ordering the kit next week sometime; any change on another source to buy this? I can't find it in stock....


Only spotted it on FeppaSpot at the moment .. not in stock, yet.

Well, that's brand new stuff. Takes time to get in in retail.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Ya i got my h55 for $45 shipped too. Not to bad a deal







threw a new corsair high statc performance fan


----------



## Vendari

You guys could always get these things and let the GPU control the FAN speed.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19786/cab-1512/4-Pin_PWM_Male_Fan_Connector_to_4-Pin_Female_Mini_GPU_Fan_Connector_Adapter_Cable.html
http://www.quietpc.com/gel-pwm-vga-cable


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> You guys could always get these things and let the GPU control the FAN speed.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19786/cab-1512/4-Pin_PWM_Male_Fan_Connector_to_4-Pin_Female_Mini_GPU_Fan_Connector_Adapter_Cable.html
> http://www.quietpc.com/gel-pwm-vga-cable


Yeah I wonder if that cable works I thought about that to just didn't think you should put a 3 pin to 2 pin that's what I hear though? Any other opinions on the 3 pin to 2 pin adapter?


----------



## ldewitt

Think in about getting this with that adapter:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14746/fan-951/Noctua_NF-B9_92_x_25mm_PWM_Fan_B9_PWM.html?tl=g36c365s940


----------



## Vendari

wait what? i thought we were talking about PWM here. XD 4pin gpu to 4 pin mobo i'd reckon....








EDIT: oh wait, you were referring to the 92mm fan on the bracket... I just stuck that on the mobo and it runs at max speed :3 the stock nzxt fan is quite quiet anyways.


----------



## Ized

Any reasonable UK prices been spotted?

If so, where?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> wait what? i thought we were talking about PWM here. XD 4pin gpu to 4 pin mobo i'd reckon....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: oh wait, you were referring to the 92mm fan on the bracket... I just stuck that on the mobo and it runs at max speed :3 the stock nzxt fan is quite quiet anyways.


Of course I was talking about the 92mm fan lawl that adapter is for a 4pin to the GPU "4" pin I want better air flow and I hear the fan I linked are the best as well as quiet.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ized*
> 
> Any reasonable UK prices been spotted?
> 
> If so, where?


New egg has opened shipping to the UK and Australia last month









http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=kraken+g10&N=-1&isNodeId=1


----------



## Ized

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> New egg has opened shipping to the UK and Australia last month
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=kraken+g10&N=-1&isNodeId=1


Yup, looks good! Until they add tax + international shipping on top and I have to wonder what drugs the Newegg guys were on when they thought opening to the UK was a good idea









It works out at almost £40, or $65.


----------



## quick1unc

Finally got my H55 and copper VRAM heatsinks in this weekend and was able to put everything together. So far I have to say it's outstanding. Took me about 30 mins to do everything. I will get pictures up this weekend, but at idle its sitting at 28C and under full load running Heaven with an overclock it hit a high of 47C, whereas it was typically hitting ~75C on the stock windforce cooler.

I have my voltage set to +12, power limit at 125, core clock at +60 and memory at +155 under MSI afterburner. This is a gigabyte gtx 770 4gb rev. 2. My only question so far is the vrm's on the back of the card. I put heatsinks on the front side under the fan, but I don't see corresponding vrm's to put sink on on the back side. Maybe I'm just missing something:\


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Finally got my H55 and copper VRAM heatsinks in this weekend and was able to put everything together. So far I have to say it's outstanding. Took me about 30 mins to do everything. I will get pictures up this weekend, but at idle its sitting at 28C and under full load running Heaven with an overclock it hit a high of 47C, whereas it was typically hitting ~75C on the stock windforce cooler.
> 
> I have my voltage set to +12, power limit at 125, core clock at +60 and memory at +155 under MSI afterburner. This is a gigabyte gtx 770 4gb rev. 2. My only question so far is the vrm's on the back of the card. I put heatsinks on the front side under the fan, but I don't see corresponding vrm's to put sink on on the back side. Maybe I'm just missing something:\
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nope not missing anything mine is the same just put them on the backside of where the vrms are. Takes a little guessing but you should be able to line it up.


----------



## Stratys

So I got my stuff today, everything was going good until one of the mounting screws for the G10 broke. Two of the provided screws would not accept the fastener more than one or two turns by hand so I tried using a screw driver and the screw just snapped after a couple turns. Couldn't get the other one on by hand either so not wanting to break another I left it alone. Really disappointed this didn't work out, mainly in myself for breaking the damn screw. I'm going to be emailing NZXT to see if I can get some more screws, though in the meantime does anyone know of any screws I could get at a hardware store to use for the time being?


----------



## Wingless Wonder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stratys*
> 
> So I got my stuff today, everything was going good until one of the mounting screws for the G10 broke. Two of the provided screws would not accept the fastener more than one or two turns by hand so I tried using a screw driver and the screw just snapped after a couple turns.


During initial tightening, one must be careful to engage the first few threads of the retention screws by hand. The best way to do so (IMO) is to assemble the Kraken G10 and graphics card on a table or countertop so that slight pressure can be used to compress the square rubber gasket on the Kraken backplate against the backside of the card. This allows adequate thread engagement for the thumbscrews on the gpu side of the graphics card.

I know that some users are using a screwdriver for the final tightening of the thumbscrews, but I tighten mine _by hand, ONLY_. The thumbscrews are very snug, but not as tight as I can possibly screw them down. Let the gpu temperature reading during gameplay or benchmarks be your guide


----------



## Wingless Wonder

I'm using the aluminum support plate from an EVGA ACX Cooler (but not the heatsink and fan assembly), along with an EVGA backplate for an EVGA GTX TITAN BLACK card. The ACX support plate requires modification by grinding off the four threaded lugs that protrude into the area surrounding the gpu. I used a Black & Decker RTX tool, but a Dremel with a cutting disc will work fine.

Because the EVGA backplate adds thickness to the whole assembly, care must be used to compress the square rubber gasket on the Kraken G10 backplate to allow enough thread engagement on the gpu side for adequate thread engagement using the supplied thumbscrews. I didn't have to source or use longer screws. All four thumbscrews were finger-tightened snugly, without use of a screwdriver.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wingless Wonder*
> 
> I'm using the aluminum support plate from an EVGA ACX Cooler (but not the heatsink and fan assembly), along with an EVGA backplate for an EVGA GTX TITAN BLACK card. The ACX support plate requires modification by grinding off the four threaded lugs that protrude into the area surrounding the gpu. I used a Black & Decker RTX tool, but a Dremel with a cutting disc will work fine.
> 
> Because the EVGA backplate adds thickness to the whole assembly, care must be used to compress the square rubber gasket on the Kraken G10 backplate to allow enough thread engagement on the gpu side for adequate thread engagement using the supplied thumbscrews. I didn't have to source or use longer screws. All four thumbscrews were finger-tightened snugly, without use of a screwdriver.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! What temps do you get?


----------



## Wingless Wonder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *melodystyle2003*
> 
> Nice! What temps do you get?


Under load, 42 C to a maximum that I've seen at 51 C, on a day with ambient room temp of 78 F (25.5 C) and my air-cooled cpu fans from Hyper 212 EVO blowing right into the H90. This is during PrimeGrid task crunching an OpenCL app, which works the TITAN BLACK's gpu at a constant 98% load and heats up the VRM to the point of introducing errors unless I downclock the memory of the TITAN BLACK. If the cpu is not being used to crunch cpu tasks at the same time, then the cpu temp stays in the low to mid 40 C range.

Crysis 3 gameplay at the moderate resolution I use, 1920 x 1080, does not work the TITAN BLACK as hard and temps stay in the low to mid 40s.

Ideally, someone will figure out how to mate an excellent air cooler with an elaborate arrangement of a heatsink and heat pipes like the EVGA ACX cooler to use with the Kraken G10. This would cool _both_ the gpu and the VRM and VRAM very well.


----------



## Zehheal

After spending half a night getting hold of nuts and other tools to sort out the G10 and the faulty screws in the box I finally got mine assembled, had torn apart my Gigabyte 770 GTX rev.1, when I came to assembly one of the screws were slightly bigger than the others, so had to do a minor modification to the G10 mounting bracket, along with getting a hold of nuts etc.

Runs stable though with a Corsair H105, maxed out at 58 celcius in Heavens benchmark, having all at 1920x1080 maxed settings. So quite happy with the outcome, rather unhappy about the contents of the G10 package, their support being a royal pain getting a hold of.

But yeah, all in all, faulty content but the outcome was somewhat decent, quiet system along with some proper good temps.


----------



## Ized

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ized*
> 
> Any reasonable UK prices been spotted?
> 
> If so, where?


Amazon UK £25 delivered though its on 1-4 weeks back order.

Gives me a few weeks to find a cheaper options I guess.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wingless Wonder*
> 
> Under load, 42 C to a maximum that I've seen at 51 C, on a day with ambient room temp of 78 F (25.5 C) and my air-cooled cpu fans from Hyper 212 EVO blowing right into the H90. This is during PrimeGrid task crunching an OpenCL app, which works the TITAN BLACK's gpu at a constant 98% load and heats up the VRM to the point of introducing errors unless I downclock the memory of the TITAN BLACK. If the cpu is not being used to crunch cpu tasks at the same time, then the cpu temp stays in the low to mid 40 C range.
> 
> Crysis 3 gameplay at the moderate resolution I use, 1920 x 1080, does not work the TITAN BLACK as hard and temps stay in the low to mid 40s.
> 
> Ideally, someone will figure out how to mate an excellent air cooler with an elaborate arrangement of a heatsink and heat pipes like the EVGA ACX cooler to use with the Kraken G10. This would cool _both_ the gpu and the VRM and VRAM very well.


Thank for the infos.
Now adding separate ram and vrm heatsinks, helps to keep lower temp than using stock ram/vrm reinforcement plate (according to mine tests). Also you dont have to cut it and probably void your warranty since you cant return your gpu back "as it was".


----------



## quick1unc

Ya, the VRM heatsinks have worked like a champ thus far. I run at 27 C at idle and for most regular games I am only getting in the high 30's, so all in all the combination of the G10 and the heat sinks has been near perfect for me.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Ya, the VRM heatsinks have worked like a champ thus far. I run at 27 C at idle and for most regular games I am only getting in the high 30's, so all in all the combination of the G10 and the heat sinks has been near perfect for me.


The VRM heat sinks aren't optional like NZXT claims them to be. Without them, my 770 was throttling itself back a lot.


----------



## quick1unc

If you touch one of them after the card has been running, you can feel the heat off them, so you can tell they are doing their job and doing it well


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> The VRM heat sinks aren't optional like NZXT claims them to be. Without them, my 770 was throttling itself back a lot.


At what temps are the VRM causing throttling for you. My VRM 1 stays in the low 52's under load but my VRM2s get up to 60.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> At what temps are the VRM causing throttling for you. My VRM 1 stays in the low 52's under load but my VRM2s get up to 60.


Since I have an NVidia card I can't say my temps for sure, but gpu boost 2.0 was performing worse than my stock cooler (despite the cooler core with my kraken) until I put heat sinks over the VRM's. I'm guessing the VRM's couldn't provide enough electricity do to higher temps throttling them back.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Stratys i got some extra screws from nzxt because i thought the kit i ordered would have the older shorter set but ended up not . If you cant get ahold of nzxt i could send some to you.


----------



## Stratys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wingless Wonder*
> 
> During initial tightening, one must be careful to engage the first few threads of the retention screws by hand. The best way to do so (IMO) is to assemble the Kraken G10 and graphics card on a table or countertop so that slight pressure can be used to compress the square rubber gasket on the Kraken backplate against the backside of the card. This allows adequate thread engagement for the thumbscrews on the gpu side of the graphics card.
> 
> I know that some users are using a screwdriver for the final tightening of the thumbscrews, but I tighten mine _by hand, ONLY_. The thumbscrews are very snug, but not as tight as I can possibly screw them down. Let the gpu temperature reading during gameplay or benchmarks be your guide


That's the thing though, I was doing them by hand exactly as you described but two of the screws refused to thread past two turns. I know it wasn't the thumbscrews at fault because I tested all four on the two working screws and they all went smoothly. I simply received two faulty screws and as a result I ended up breaking one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Stratys i got some extra screws from nzxt because i thought the kit i ordered would have the older shorter set but ended up not . If you cant get ahold of nzxt i could send some to you.


Thank you, I'll go ahead and PM you my address because I think it'll be a while before I hear back from them based off the last time I contacted them for something.

EDIT
Actually I just got an email back from NZXT saying they'll ship replacements out later this week. Kinda impressed since I sent the request at about 1am and they got back to me by midday.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

stratys, got your pm, Glad nzxt got ahold of you. They were fairly quick with my replacemnt screws so you should be good to go.


----------



## d0mini

Hey there, I have ordered one of these brackets and should get it in a few weeks. I will be attempting to use it with my GTX 780 Lightning while keeping both backplate and front-plate on, as I have been told and have seen proof that this is possible to do.

I will be attempting this with an H75 water cooler in a 300r case. It's quite a compact case, and I'm willing to place the cooler wherever it will fit, but I am a little concerned about the hose length.. I am hoping that it will at least be able to be fitted as rear exhaust, but top exhaust would be preferable. If anyone has any info on hose length or has an opinion on whether it will work, I would be very grateful


----------



## Vendari

If the H75 is compatible, why not opt for a H55 and just add your choice of PWM static pressure fan(S) to go with it? It has a thicker radiator and is cheaper.







also, you might want to make sure your screws are long enough because the backplaye+unisink? might make it too tight a fit for short screws. And even if it does fit, it'll be so tight that you might crack your GPU die.


----------



## d0mini

Thank you for the warning and information. I got the 75 pretty much because I am worried about whether I can actually get another full push pull config in my case in addition to the one I have for my CPU . What I really would like to know is if anyone has managed to actually use a G10 in a 300r, and if so where they put the rad.

The guy who managed to leave the backplate and unisink on his lightning is Face2Face, and he has a build log of it here:

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2367466


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Hey there, I have ordered one of these brackets and should get it in a few weeks. I will be attempting to use it with my GTX 780 Lightning while keeping both backplate and front-plate on, as I have been told and have seen proof that this is possible to do.
> 
> I will be attempting this with an H75 water cooler in a 300r case. It's quite a compact case, and I'm willing to place the cooler wherever it will fit, but I am a little concerned about the hose length.. I am hoping that it will at least be able to be fitted as rear exhaust, but top exhaust would be preferable. If anyone has any info on hose length or has an opinion on whether it will work, I would be very grateful


I don't think you'll have a problem with it reaching the rear exhaust, you'll just have to move your thermaltake CPU cooler to the top. That's what i had to do with my antec kuhler 920 i just moved my DVD drive to my bottom bay and installed the radiator above it, you can see in my Razer Phantom photos under my sig how i did it.

*UNRELATED TO YOU BUT:*

Also just installed the copper heatsinks on my VRM's haven't noticed a difference in performance in over clocking. Still wasn't able to reach over a Heaven Benchmark of 1052 with 57 core clock and 110 mem clock. Also noticed my GPU wasn't cooling as good as before(probably because i had to reseat the cooler) I think i might have to tighten the cooler more but i been getting around 47-49c HIGH in Heaven benchmark.


----------



## d0mini

Thanks Idewitt







already moved my DVD drive in anticipation







it's going to be a long while until it comes though, the waiting game will hopefully be the hardest part of this whole experience









Did the VRM temps decrease? If you have a way of telling that is


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Thanks Idewitt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> already moved my DVD drive in anticipation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's going to be a long while until it comes though, the waiting game will hopefully be the hardest part of this whole experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did the VRM temps decrease? If you have a way of telling that is


I'm not sure if they decreased i don't have anything that can tell me my temps, other than core temps in heaven benchmark. But i touched the heatsinks on the back of the VRM(backside of the card; IE: whats facing up) and the heatsinks were hot so i imagine its helping. I just think i have to tighten the bracket down more. I tell you what the VRAM heatsinks were alot hotter than the top VRM heatsinks i touched.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Hey guys, i thought id post some pics of my Kraken G10 build, with a the Kraken painted blue in case anyone was wondering how it turned out.

imgur.com/a/nUv9n

I made the mistake of not sanding off the white paint before i spray painted it, which caused a good amount of the paint to chip off when installing the H55, its rather unavoidable because you have to twist and tighten it into place, so im not sure if sanding it would have helped that much anyways. But either way the parts that got chipped are facing the GPU and you cant see them at all from any normal view so im totally fine with how it turned out.

Next upgrade is to go intel when the 4690k comes out and get an actual black PCB, that brown one drives me insane. but i think the 4690k will be worth the wait, especially if it comes stock at 4GHz like rumor are saying O.0

(let me know if the link works, im at work and cant go to imgur, i manually copied it form my phone.)


----------



## Shine6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Hey there, I have ordered one of these brackets and should get it in a few weeks. I will be attempting to use it with my GTX 780 Lightning while keeping both backplate and front-plate on, as I have been told and have seen proof that this is possible to do.
> 
> I will be attempting this with an H75 water cooler in a 300r case. It's quite a compact case, and I'm willing to place the cooler wherever it will fit, but I am a little concerned about the hose length.. I am hoping that it will at least be able to be fitted as rear exhaust, but top exhaust would be preferable. If anyone has any info on hose length or has an opinion on whether it will work, I would be very grateful


Hi,

I have got a G10 installed with a H75.

On a Corsair 760T the hose is not long enough for front installation (miss 2 cm). Not possible on top too. But it's no problem on top bottom position.

A solution to handle this is to get longer screw (2 or more inch) and add some kind of air duct between the case and the H75 fan. I am trying this solution now.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Hey guys, i thought id post some pics of my Kraken G10 build, with a the Kraken painted blue in case anyone was wondering how it turned out.
> 
> imgur.com/a/nUv9n
> 
> I made the mistake of not sanding off the white paint before i spray painted it, which caused a good amount of the paint to chip off when installing the H55, its rather unavoidable because you have to twist and tighten it into place, so im not sure if sanding it would have helped that much anyways. But either way the parts that got chipped are facing the GPU and you cant see them at all from any normal view so im totally fine with how it turned out.
> 
> Next upgrade is to go intel when the 4690k comes out and get an actual black PCB, that brown one drives me insane. but i think the 4690k will be worth the wait, especially if it comes stock at 4GHz like rumor are saying O.0
> 
> (let me know if the link works, im at work and cant go to imgur, i manually copied it form my phone.)


Link works.

I'm not so much a fan of the blue to me looks like it has glitter in it not as glossy as NZXT's coat, anyways i do like how to spray painted your PSU that looks really good. Braided cable i feel too much color with the black, grey, blue, white/blue. Should of not had the straight blue in it and maybe i white. But your rig looks good non-the-less. Awesome build, favorite part was the dog!


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Link works.
> 
> I'm not so much a fan of the blue to me looks like it has glitter in it not as glossy as NZXT's coat, anyways i do like how to spray painted your PSU that looks really good. Braided cable i feel too much color with the black, grey, blue, white/blue. Should of not had the straight blue in it and maybe i white. But your rig looks good non-the-less. Awesome build, favorite part was the dog!


Thanks for the critiques. I do agree that the spray pant could have looked better. I made the mistake of buying the cheap spray paint and not a good brand glossy paint. Im too afraid to take it off now tho lol i had quite a struggle with the installation. The h55 barely fits in the 300R, i had to flip the way that the tubes were, as before i wanted them in the back so they were more out of the way, but the cooler wouldn't reach that way. I kinda like the tubes in the for front now that i see it, I like that it makes sure ppl know that the GPU is liquid cooled lol.

The cables i can also see where you're coming from, the guy from ensourced lets you pick the colors and fully customize. I wanted something unique that i hadn't seen before so i went with the white with blue stripes on the outsides. It didnt mesh as well as i hoped it would, but i still like them. Im gonna sew then together to they looked a little cleaner and hopefully that will make up for the weird colors a little.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Thanks for the critiques. I do agree that the spray pant could have looked better. I made the mistake of buying the cheap spray paint and not a good brand glossy paint. Im too afraid to take it off now tho lol i had quite a struggle with the installation. The h55 barely fits in the 300R, i had to flip the way that the tubes were, as before i wanted them in the back so they were more out of the way, but the cooler wouldn't reach that way. I kinda like the tubes in the for front now that i see it, I like that it makes sure ppl know that the GPU is liquid cooled lol.
> 
> The cables i can also see where you're coming from, the guy from ensourced lets you pick the colors and fully customize. I wanted something unique that i hadn't seen before so i went with the white with blue stripes on the outsides. It didnt mesh as well as i hoped it would, but i still like them. Im gonna sew then together to they looked a little cleaner and hopefully that will make up for the weird colors a little.


Right another thing you could do which i'm gona do myself is add anti-kink springs to your tubes for extra color in your system:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6618/tsl-24/PrimoChill_Anti-Kink_Coils_-_12_OD_Tubing_-_Glossy_Blue.html?tl=g30c289s715

Here the list you'll have to scrool down past the stainless steel ones to get to the colored ones:
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c289/s715/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_Accessories-Anti-kink_Coils_-_12_OD-Page1.html?o=title_az

I thought about doing both blue and white coils for extra color but i might just go with the white alone instead.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

I would have to agree with idlewitt on the colors, but hey you never know until you try. So you think it would be to much work to repaint?


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> I would have to agree with idlewitt on the colors, but hey you never know until you try. So you think it would be to much work to repaint?


I dont think it would be too much work to repaint, I just get so nervous when i work with the bare GPU. The plain PCB feels so flimsy, and I'm also a little afraid of bending the H55 a weird way and causing leaks. Its just a little stressful lol. I will get around to it eventually, but for now imma keep it together and enjoy the performance for a while.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Right another thing you could do which i'm gona do myself is add anti-kink springs to your tubes for extra color in your system:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6618/tsl-24/PrimoChill_Anti-Kink_Coils_-_12_OD_Tubing_-_Glossy_Blue.html?tl=g30c289s715
> 
> Here the list you'll have to scrool down past the stainless steel ones to get to the colored ones:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c289/s715/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_Accessories-Anti-kink_Coils_-_12_OD-Page1.html?o=title_az
> 
> I thought about doing both blue and white coils for extra color but i might just go with the white alone instead.


Those look pretty slick, do you have to disconnect the tubing to put them on tho? Is that possible with AIO coolers like the H55?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I dont think it would be too much work to repaint, I just get so nervous when i work with the bare GPU. The plain PCB feels so flimsy, and I'm also a little afraid of bending the H55 a weird way and causing leaks. Its just a little stressful lol. I will get around to it eventually, but for now imma keep it together and enjoy the performance for a while.
> 
> 
> Those look pretty slick, do you have to disconnect the tubing to put them on tho? Is that possible with AIO coolers like the H55?


No there just a spring that you wind around your tubing, kinda like putting something on a ring key chain!


----------



## d0mini

@Wakalakaz ,

Did you have to mod the case at all to attach the rad to the front of the case?


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> @Wakalakaz ,
> 
> Did you have to mod the case at all to attach the rad to the front of the case?


I did not, but I did connect the rad not using the usual fan screw holes. There are some holes in the front panel that are there for airflow, but were just big enough to fit some screws through and attach the radiator to the front. Once it was attached i put the stock 140mm fan back on over the front of the rad and attached the fan that came with the h55 to the back of the rad. I was only able to fit 2 of the screws in on the top of the rad and left the bottom 2 unattached, doesn't seem to have any problems with it tho. I can take some close up pictures tonight if you would like, i probably am doing a bad job of describing it lol.


----------



## d0mini

I think I understood, but if you can manage close up picture that would be awesome







I will try getting this h75 to the rear, but if not, this looks like a feasible way to do it


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I think I understood, but if you can manage close up picture that would be awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try getting this h75 to the rear, but if not, this looks like a feasible way to do it


yeah the H75 should fit the same as the h55, but as mentioned in a different comment above, the tube/radiator positioning have to be as seen in my build pictures. The radiator wont fit with the tubes on top or bottom and the tubes wont reach to the GPU if the are positioned on the motherboard tray side. unless the h75 has longer tubes, but i dont think that is the case. Ill try to snap some pics tonight if i can remember.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

this is off topic but how do you like your xstar wakalakaz? I have one too


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> this is off topic but how do you like your xstar wakalakaz? I have one too


I cant live without it now. my work computer has a 1280 by 1024 monitor and it is pretty much torture working with it. once you go 1440p you don't go back. The monitor was the main reason i upgraded my GPU to a R9 290X and then since it was a reference cooler the logical next step is a kraken g10. Im running 3 monitors set up right now. Have a 42 in TV that i use to watch shows or twitch streams, my x-star in the middle for games and browsing, then a 23in 1080-p monitor for skype/steam/battle.net chats and interfaces. Once the 4k comes down a little in price or there is a Korean IPS 4k monitor imma upgrade to that, but right now 700 bucks is too much for me.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Ya i love mine too. Got it for $270 and has worked great and the oc too







that is why i upgraded to a 780. I like the 290 also but have usually gone nvidia.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I think I understood, but if you can manage close up picture that would be awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try getting this h75 to the rear, but if not, this looks like a feasible way to do it





I count get a good pic without taking the fan off, and i didn't have my screwdriver with me. But i circled the holes i used in red. and the other picture should show the placement. hope this helps.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys, potential buyer looking for some advice/recommendations.

I've got 2 780 TI classified's and I'd like to give em some more breathing room to see how far they'll go. Too lazy to go back to doing custom loops and I think these g10s might be the answer. Now here's the thing: I know they work on the classified's (I've seen several posters on various forums showing they got it mounted fine), but where I'm unsure is the selection of vram and vrm heatsinks. Now I know that the VRAM heatsinks aren't necessary, but if they'll improve memory ocs/maintain stability why not? My first question is, ignoring the VRAM heatsinks besides the highlighted area below is there any other spots I should be buying heatsinks for:



My second question is what vrm heatsinks should I be using to make sure they'll fit safely both for height and width? The one thing here is that I don't want them to be copper colored (aesthetics whore), but am fine with white, silver/aluminium, or black. In addition, I don't want to use a permanent thermal glue in case of RMA/reselling, so are there any particular heatsinks that come with decent thermal tape, or would thermal adhesion method would be best? Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## Colin0912

Hey all G10 owners im purchasing one for my next upgrade this year and was wondering do you use Heatsinks on VRMS and how much head room is there for Heat sink size one G10 once installed any help be appreciatted


----------



## PhantomTaco

Sorry, miss-posted


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naushis*
> 
> I haven't seen my 780 go over 44 with the fans on low and a +100 offset on the H110. Also in an air starved H440. Very happy!


Hi, just wanna ask for some advice on the fit. I am still planning my next build, and over here laws and business practice puts proper fit is the buyer's responsibility* so I don't have anything with me at this point. I'm planning to use the H440, and just because I'm feeling OC enough to spend a few bucks over Corsair, I'll get all-Kraken on my set-up. So that means an X60 with only its fans pushing air through them for a 4670K on the top mount, then an X40 (hopefully in push-pull) for a GTX770 on the rear exhaust port.

Does it look like the X60 and X40 will have reasonable clearance in those mounting points? Just looking at them I am 99% sure that an H100i and H55 will fit (240mm + 120mm), but I just feel like going all NZXT on as many parts as possible on this build, which will be the most serious one I'll do to date. No need to make a lot of measurements, just the top mounting panel going down to the stock rear fan mounting points (140mm and 120mm); even just a visual estimate will do, just so I an settle on parts and then I might try other 280mm+140mm rads at the store (whatever open box items they have) for a more thorough test of the fit. I already sent NZXT an email a few days ago and I have not yet received a reply, saw this thread and thought I'd try here too.

Thanks!

_*It's absolutely nothing like in the US over here when it comes to returns_

Oh if anyone's actually got these to fit, please post a link if you can...I can't find any such set-up through Google.


----------



## majormajormajor

Hi everyone,

Am hoping to join the club, but first I need some feedback on my anticipated dual GPU build. Basically, I need to know if this will work:



Thanks!


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majormajormajor*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Am hoping to join the club, but first I need some feedback on my anticipated dual GPU build. Basically, I need to know if this will work:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Well it seems it would work just make sure the H75 tubes are long enough to reach to the front of your case. I just barely could reach the front of my case but it wasn't comfortable to me looked maxxed out. I measured my Antec kuhler 920 and corsair H55 to about 11 inches long....not sure on the H75 maybe there longer now.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Different question, will the h55 mounted to the front of an h440 have tubing long enough to reach to the kraken?


----------



## majormajormajor

I would like to know the answer to this as well.

Actually, does anyone know of any cases that work with two front-mounted CLC's connected to g10's?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majormajormajor*
> 
> I would like to know the answer to this as well.
> 
> Actually, does anyone know of any cases that work with two front-mounted CLC's connected to g10's?


As for the h440 no clue but in order to get 2 h55s to the front I think you would need a mid case my 530 barely reaches to the front but not comfortable with the strain on the GPU+CLC tubes.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> As for the h440 no clue but in order to get 2 h55s to the front I think you would need a mid case my 530 barely reaches to the front but not comfortable with the strain on the GPU+CLC tubes.


Do you have any photos you could share to show what kind of strain we're talking about?


----------



## pdasterly

help with g10 bracket on 290x. I purchased two nzxt brackets for my 290x's. Both kits are identical except for the mounting hardware, one kit has the 4 cpu hold down screws with nuts and the other has rubber washers with a white strip around them.
The kit with the nuts almost fits but its bending my card so I'm doing something wrong and the kit with the rubber washers screws are just too short. Nzxt was supposed to send me two screw kits but somehow my order got lost and they supposed to send a set out but still waiting, funny they are in the same state as me so even usps should have gotten package here using their slowest service.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well it seems it would work just make sure the H75 tubes are long enough to reach to the front of your case. I just barely could reach the front of my case but it wasn't comfortable to me looked maxxed out. I measured my Antec kuhler 920 and corsair H55 to about 11 inches long....not sure on the H75 maybe there longer now.


Im in same situation, bought new case(corsari 540) and still cant get everything where I want. Corsari H90 on cpu and H75 on crossfire 290x. Your H75 needs to be configured to push air out the case. The way you have setup is pulling warm air into case

1.jpg 252k .jpg file


2.jpg 252k .jpg file


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> 
> 
> Im in same situation, bought new case(corsari 540) and still cant get everything where I want. Corsari H90 on cpu and H75 on crossfire 290x. Your H75 needs to be configured to push air out the case. The way you have setup is pulling warm air into case
> 
> 1.jpg 252k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 2.jpg 252k .jpg file


While it is pulling warm air into the case, the only things that need air cooling at that point are the vrms on the gpus (minimal impact from slightly warmer air) and the motherboard vrms (which are getting cool air from the rear intake). Honestly this is how I'd set it up myself, with the exception of the top being both exhaust. That way you have two exhausts up top (where hot air will normally end up), 2 cooled intakes (rear and bottom) and 2 warmer intakes from the front.


----------



## pdasterly

dosent make sense to me to pull hot air inside case, but thats just my opinion. People are already adding heatsinks and fans to help keep the vrm's cool, so any little bit helps and sucking hot air into the case dosent. The hoses on h75 and h90 are 12" long. At least flip your h75's around so they blow the hot air out the case


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majormajormajor*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Am hoping to join the club, but first I need some feedback on my anticipated dual GPU build. Basically, I need to know if this will work:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


In case the tubes aren´t long enough to mount the rad in the front, can´t you just mount them directly to the HDD cages?
I could mount 120mm fans on my cages, not sure about rads though.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Do you have any photos you could share to show what kind of strain we're talking about?


To be honest it's not so much seeing the strain, as much as it is feeling it. I feel the tubes being maxxed out and actually putting the gpu tword the front in turn possibly pulling the back part of the conductors on the card that are in the pci-e slot. I wasn't able to comfortably even with only screwing the top 2 screws into the radiator mount. and to be honest i couldn't put a screw in the pci slot in my case without pulling the I/O shield of the graphics card(the metal cover that sits over where the Input/output plugs where you plug your HDMI/DVI cables in) so stain i felt was with the metal bracket pulling to the back of the case and the cooler tubes and pcb being pulled tword the front, didn't sit easy with me so i reverted back to the rear exhast.

Also as "pdasterly" noted it, doesn't make sense to pull hot air into the case, after awhile of being under load ect. those radiators will produce more heat than you think regardless of your exhaust supply. Look at how my case is set up theres been minor changes since the picture:



Go here to get the bigger picture:
http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2e/2e16bc4a_Airflow.jpeg


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> To be honest it's not so much seeing the strain, as much as it is feeling it. I feel the tubes being maxxed out and actually putting the gpu tword the front in turn possibly pulling the back part of the conductors on the card that are in the pci-e slot. I wasn't able to comfortably even with only screwing the top 2 screws into the radiator mount. and to be honest i couldn't put a screw in the pci slot in my case without pulling the I/O shield of the graphics card(the metal cover that sits over where the Input/output plugs where you plug your HDMI/DVI cables in) so stain i felt was with the metal bracket pulling to the back of the case and the cooler tubes and pcb being pulled tword the front, didn't sit easy with me so i reverted back to the rear exhast.
> 
> Also as "pdasterly" noted it, doesn't make sense to pull hot air into the case, after awhile of being under load ect. those radiators will produce more heat than you think regardless of your exhaust supply. Look at how my case is set up theres been minor changes since the picture:
> 
> 
> 
> Go here to get the bigger picture:
> http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2e/2e16bc4a_Airflow.jpeg


Thx for the reply. Honestly it's a shame because if it's as you say and you cannot have them reach the front of the case, I can no longer do this mod. I wanted to use 120mm clcs specifically because I have eloops and I don't plan to change my fans (breaks the aesthetic).


----------



## PhantomTaco

Double post, apologies


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

ldewitt, just curious, why did you mount your rad with the hoses up?


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majormajormajor*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Am hoping to join the club, but first I need some feedback on my anticipated dual GPU build. Basically, I need to know if this will work:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


You have to take into account that radiators don't measure exactly the same way as the mounting holes. For example, a 120mm rad - particularly an AIO - will have extra space on two sides for the reservoir and pump, then on the other two sides screws are sticking out. Even if the panel can mount two 140mm fans, the problem then becomes where the mounting holes are. If they aren't in the right spot, your two 120mm rads might still be right up against each other. If you can go with a custom loop, a 240mm given the proper pump can cool two GPUs.


----------



## jackalopeater

I think the H105 may be just a little overkill....But I am able to overvolt and push my Gigabyte R9 290 to 1235mhz on the core


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> ldewitt, just curious, why did you mount your rad with the hoses up?


Well I tryed it with the hoses down but it was all jumbled against my window so i figured i'd stretch them out by mounting that way. Do you have other suggestions this is really the only i could mount it.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well I tryed it with the hoses down but it was all jumbled against my window so i figured i'd stretch them out by mounting that way. Do you have other suggestions this is really the only i could mount it.


I know what your talking about as far as it being kinda bunched up. I got mine soreted pretty well. I dont think it will hurt anything with it up. I was just curious is all







got my 780 to 1200 on stock voltage and it hits about 46C so, so far so good


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Jackalopeater, nice rig man! Did you 290 come with a basplate?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> To be honest it's not so much seeing the strain, as much as it is feeling it. I feel the tubes being maxxed out and actually putting the gpu tword the front in turn possibly pulling the back part of the conductors on the card that are in the pci-e slot. I wasn't able to comfortably even with only screwing the top 2 screws into the radiator mount. and to be honest i couldn't put a screw in the pci slot in my case without pulling the I/O shield of the graphics card(the metal cover that sits over where the Input/output plugs where you plug your HDMI/DVI cables in) so stain i felt was with the metal bracket pulling to the back of the case and the cooler tubes and pcb being pulled tword the front, didn't sit easy with me so i reverted back to the rear exhast.
> 
> Also as "pdasterly" noted it, doesn't make sense to pull hot air into the case, after awhile of being under load ect. those radiators will produce more heat than you think regardless of your exhaust supply. Look at how my case is set up theres been minor changes since the picture:
> 
> 
> 
> Go here to get the bigger picture:
> http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2e/2e16bc4a_Airflow.jpeg


Looks good


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> I think the H105 may be just a little overkill....But I am able to overvolt and push my Gigabyte R9 290 to 1235mhz on the core
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking rig, i was wondering what the back corsair fan is looking for something to go with my rig of mostly white amplified by my Blue LED's, not looking for LED fans though. Possibly PWM.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Looks good


Thanks! Always a work in progress! and as for the fans, Jackalopeater I figured it out thanks!


----------



## Radmanhs

Hey, I'm ordering one right now (tried back in January, but it never arrived with the useless customer support...). Anyway, I heard the various chips get hot on cards, especially the r9 290/x's, which is what i have. What type of heatsinks/thermal adhesive should I use to put on the chips?


----------



## gopackersjt

So for all the guys rocking their G10 on an r9 290, are you guys happy with it? I'll most likely be switching from my 770 to a 290 in about a month. Just curious.


----------



## shwarz

very happy with my 2 r290's with g10's just make sure to get some vrm heatsinks


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> I think the H105 may be just a little overkill....But I am able to overvolt and push my Gigabyte R9 290 to 1235mhz on the core


Max gpu temp?

Please with a screen


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> So for all the guys rocking their G10 on an r9 290, are you guys happy with it? I'll most likely be switching from my 770 to a 290 in about a month. Just curious.


Not particularly. Its next to impossible to adequately cool the VRMs, you need to get your hands on High conductivity Fujiploy thermal pads and the GELID enhancement kits. Even then, the VRM performance is not spectacularly better than the stock solutions (especially if you have the Tri X or PCS+ coolers).

However, this mod may be of benefit for mild overclocks or heavy RAM overclocks (RAM OC seems to scale well with core temperatures provided the chips are Samsung or Hynix) However, your next problem then becomes cooling the RAM.

Also, if you have a non-reference card with a good integrated VRM heatsink, this mod may be also beneficial since Waterblocks for these cards are hard to get.

Overall, this experiment has mostly taught me a lot about thermal management so I don't regret doing it but I'm more keen on full scale watercooling than ever.


----------



## jackalopeater

There you go, and with buying up a reference heatsink and cutting it up so that I could have good VRM cooling as well as support for the card I was able to overvolt and max the slider on the GPU core, I could also push the memory all the way to 1625 (but it's elpida memory so it isn't very stable).

Stock Speeds 51*C


Max OC and overvolt 60*C


These temps are with fans in pull config and running at 40%. The main reason I went with this model was so that I could keep the fans quiet and still get good temps.


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> There you go, and with buying up a reference heatsink and cutting it up so that I could have good VRM cooling as well as support for the card I was able to overvolt and max the slider on the GPU core, I could also push the memory all the way to 1625 (but it's elpida memory so it isn't very stable).
> 
> Stock Speeds 51*C
> 
> Max OC and overvolt 60*C
> 
> These temps are with fans in pull config and running at 40%. The main reason I went with this model was so that I could keep the fans quiet and still get good temps.


Thank you.

I cut the reference cooler as you did but i use it under prolimatech mk-26. I really don't like it, temps are to high.
i already have nzxt g10 i'm going to buy an aio, i think i'll take Zalman lq315 with an Enermax twister pressure ( really silent and performing fan). i'd like to buy the corsair H105 but i don't want to pay other 100€ for it.. I understand your target and, if i were in you, i'd substitute corsair fan.

Bye


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> There you go, and with buying up a reference heatsink and cutting it up so that I could have good VRM cooling as well as support for the card I was able to overvolt and max the slider on the GPU core, I could also push the memory all the way to 1625 (but it's elpida memory so it isn't very stable).
> 
> Stock Speeds 51*C
> 
> 
> Max OC and overvolt 60*C
> 
> 
> These temps are with fans in pull config and running at 40%. The main reason I went with this model was so that I could keep the fans quiet and still get good temps.


Hey quick question. Did you use this guide to get reference cooler for the VRMs?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1453555/quick-guide-for-the-disassembly-and-re-use-of-amd-290-reference-cooler-as-vrm-ram-heatsink/20

IF so how does ti fit under the Kraken? I have been monitoring my VRM temps and I am getting up to 80 DegC on VRM 1. I tried undervolting and it helps a little but not a big enough difference(maybe 4 degC drop), also i would like to overclocks till but dont feel comfortable without good VRM temps. is there a special tape or paste to use when reapplying the reference plate? Did you have to file down the opening in a circle to for the h105? or was it low enough to fit the way it was?


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Not particularly. Its next to impossible to adequately cool the VRMs, you need to get your hands on High conductivity Fujiploy thermal pads and the GELID enhancement kits. Even then, the VRM performance is not spectacularly better than the stock solutions (especially if you have the Tri X or PCS+ coolers).
> 
> However, this mod may be of benefit for mild overclocks or heavy RAM overclocks (RAM OC seems to scale well with core temperatures provided the chips are Samsung or Hynix) However, your next problem then becomes cooling the RAM.
> 
> Also, if you have a non-reference card with a good integrated VRM heatsink, this mod may be also beneficial since Waterblocks for these cards are hard to get.
> 
> Overall, this experiment has mostly taught me a lot about thermal management so I don't regret doing it but I'm more keen on full scale watercooling than ever.


Well I happen to have access to my dad's machine shop, so I can just built a custom heatsink to cool the VRM's.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> Well I happen to have access to my dad's machine shop, so I can just built a custom heatsink to cool the VRM's.


Make patent and sell that s...! Also help us GTX 770 owners out xD


----------



## pdasterly

http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-ICY290


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Make patent and sell that s...! Also help us GTX 770 owners out xD


I'll do this: When I go on break (3 weeks left in my quarter, plus a few days for finals) I'll make a few mockups. If anyone is interested a custom made heatsink to cover your VRM's, get me measurements and pictures of where the mounting holes go, and I can try to get a few samples made up.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> I'll do this: When I go on break (3 weeks left in my quarter, plus a few days for finals) I'll make a few mockups. If anyone is interested a custom made heatsink to cover your VRM's, get me measurements and pictures of where the mounting holes go, and I can try to get a few samples made up.


Dont waste your time, there are kits on the market for as low as $8

If you made this about a month ago I would be all over it

http://www.feppaspot.com/servlet/the-897/GELID-Solutions-Icy-Vision/Detail


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Dont waste your time, there are kits on the market for as low as $8
> 
> If you made this about a month ago I would be all over it
> 
> http://www.feppaspot.com/servlet/the-897/GELID-Solutions-Icy-Vision/Detail


How about people who own 780s? How about non reference design cards? There's demand outside of the reference 290/290x market for kraken g10s and overclocking


----------



## pdasterly

sorry wrong thread, though this was the 290x forum. Havent had my coffee yet


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-ICY290


Wow that was quick for a known site to get these in stock! Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> I'll do this: When I go on break (3 weeks left in my quarter, plus a few days for finals) I'll make a few mockups. If anyone is interested a custom made heatsink to cover your VRM's, get me measurements and pictures of where the mounting holes go, and I can try to get a few samples made up.


Well if that's the case I'm going to hold off on getting the Gelid and get you some measurements!


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> How about people who own 780s? How about non reference design cards? There's demand outside of the reference 290/290x market for kraken g10s and overclocking


Exactly. Originally we didn't even know if the Kraken would fit a Gigabyte 770. After looking at it, we realized that there are two different Gigabyte 770's. There's still a market for more exact cards.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> Exactly. Originally we didn't even know if the Kraken would fit a Gigabyte 770. After looking at it, we realized that there are two different Gigabyte 770's. There's still a market for more exact cards.


gopackersjt is right we never knew if the non reference gigabyte gtx 770oc 4GB would work. Then gopackersjt was the first to successfully mount it to his Rev.1, shortly after his success i tryed with my Rev.2 both are completely compatible with the kraken. You never know until you try or talk someone else into trying







But i think that Mack Attack has a 780 he currently is rocking the Kraken on.

Good luck


----------



## Radmanhs

So to cover the vrms all have to get is the gelid enhancement kit? What about the ran chips?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> So to cover the vrms all have to get is the gelid enhancement kit? What about the ran chips?


Yeah I don't want to steer you wrong but i'd imagine you'd be all set since this is made specifically for your card. Us Nvidia owners are stuck with make shift custom solutions! Good Luck!


----------



## Radmanhs

ok, i just wanted to make sure since i know the ram doesn't have any direct heat transfer with the g10


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok, i just wanted to make sure since i know the ram doesn't have any direct heat transfer with the g10


I ought to slap myself...sorry you will have to pick up VRAM heatsinks for the VRAM. I was only thinking about the VRM's which that kit you noted covers. It however doesn't cover the VRAMS around the GPU but you can get some aluminum ones for cheap or some copper ones like the ones i've purchased which aren't so cheap.


----------



## Radmanhs

What copper heatsinks did you get for the vrams? Also what about the thermal paste, since i know it has to hold the heatsinks on, but not permanently seal them.


----------



## Radmanhs

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_text_z

Would this word for all the vrams? I dont remember how many vrams there are, but should 8 be enough?


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_text_z
> 
> Would this word for all the vrams? I dont remember how many vrams there are, but should 8 be enough?


Those will work perfectly.


----------



## Wingless Wonder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_text_z
> 
> Would this word for all the vrams? I dont remember how many vrams there are, but should 8 be enough?


These copper heatsinks come with pre-affixed thermal tape. Clean the VRAM with a sparing amount of isopropyl alcohol, allow to dry, peel the backing from the thermal tape and stick on. The contact area never sets up like a thermal glue, but remains pliable for simple removal if you want to try a different heatsink solution in the future. This worried me at first, because I had images of the little heatsinks dropping off and destroying the VRM fan on the Kraken G10 (mounted on an NVIDIA card), but it's been 3 weeks and all the heatsinks have stayed in place.


----------



## Vendari

I dont have any way to properly measure temps but I think the reason why my VRMs aren't really hot is because i modded the stock unisink of my 680. The screws apply much more pressure to the RAM and VRMs that more heat is transfered. I can touch the back of the pcb without getting burned or uncomfortable and I notice the unisink getting very warm. Just a thought I had.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_text_z
> 
> Would this word for all the vrams? I dont remember how many vrams there are, but should 8 be enough?


Those are the exact heatsinks i have on mine right now. I ordered 2 packs(16 heatsinks) for the VRAM, and ended up ordering another 2 packs(16 heatsinks) for my VRMS. Although i think i got a crappy batch since i couldn't get a few to stick directly on the middle VRMS but the reason i say 16 is because i put them both on the front and back of the VRAM and VRMS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> I dont have any way to properly measure temps but I think the reason why my VRMs aren't really hot is because i modded the stock unisink of my 680. The screws apply much more pressure to the RAM and VRMs that more heat is transfered. I can touch the back of the pcb without getting burned or uncomfortable and I notice the unisink getting very warm. Just a thought I had.


Yeah i'd imagine that the heat is transferring well since the unisink is getting warm.


----------



## Radmanhs

Cool, did you use now than 8 on the vrams?


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Cool, did you use now than 8 on the vrams?


after looking at the card it looks like I'll need 15 for the ram?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> after looking at the card it looks like I'll need 15 for the ram?


From the looks of 290 you don't have VRAM on both sides of your card so i would go by how many VRAM modules you have like on this card(although this is a 280x):


You can see 12 VRAM modules for this card, all of them will need a heatsink.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> From the looks of 290 you don't have VRAM on both sides of your card so i would go by how many VRAM modules you have like on this card(although this is a 280x):
> 
> 
> You can see 12 VRAM modules for this card, all of them will need a heatsink.


isnt that a 7970? the r9 290 has 16 vram modules you can see it in pictures from earlier in this thread. im pretty sure it has 16 because each one is actually 256MB of VRAM.


----------



## Radmanhs

I just decided to order another set of the heatsinks for the vram sice as far as i could tell it has 15 or 16 vram chips, then i got the special heatsinks for the vrms


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> isnt that a 7970? the r9 290 has 16 vram modules you can see it in pictures from earlier in this thread. im pretty sure it has 16 because each one is actually 256MB of VRAM.


Your right sorry some jacka.. put that on a forum under 280x. But he should get the point from the picture. Thanks for the heads up though, now he knows how many he will have to cover.


----------



## Radmanhs

man... makin me put more and more money into my computer 0.0 I'm creeping up on 'doubling' the amount of cash I put into my computer since I first built it, and this isnt helping  hahaha


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> man... makin me put more and more money into my computer 0.0 I'm creeping up on 'doubling' the amount of cash I put into my computer since I first built it, and this isnt helping >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahaha


My r9 290x VRAM temps are fine, its only the VRM thats a problem for me. If you really tight on cash and dont plan to overclock ur VRAM then you can prolly go without.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

remeber you can also use the backside cooler off of the twin turbo3 if you really want to try and cool it down


----------



## LeandroJVarini

My contribution

Sorry the image of poor quality my phone is not the best

VGAs is not listed by the manufacturer more works perfectly!
GTX470 Fermi SLI + Kraken G10 + Kraken X40



























Just to fit the radiators in the front of the case had to knead some parts!


----------



## maynard14

i have antec kuhler 620 on my nzxt g10 with r9 290x ,.. and currently its hot here in the philippines,. my idel temp are 44 to 47c,.. while gaming max i got is 67c,.

i want to upgrade my antec kuhler 620 to a kraken x60 or corsair 1105


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> i have antec kuhler 620 on my nzxt g10 with r9 290x ,.. and currently its hot here in the philippines,. my idel temp are 44 to 47c,.. while gaming max i got is 67c,.
> 
> i want to upgrade my antec kuhler 620 to a kraken x60 or corsair 1105


67C is still well below thermal throttling, you don't really NEED to tbh


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> My contribution
> 
> Sorry the image of poor quality my phone is not the best
> 
> VGAs is not listed by the manufacturer more works perfectly!
> GTX470 Fermi SLI + Kraken G10 + Kraken X40
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to fit the radiators in the front of the case had to knead some parts!


Wow your rig is well put toghether love the black red theme awesome looking build!


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> 67C is still well below thermal throttling, you don't really NEED to tbh


thanks but that 67c is at stock settings no oc,.. if i oc my card to 1160 core clock, i need 100 + mv volts on msi after burner,.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> thanks but that 67c is at stock settings no oc,.. if i oc my card to 1160 core clock, i need 100 + mv volts on msi after burner,.


Well a question for you first then:

What temps is it like at load?

Also, if your environment is THAT hot, I don't think a larger radiator will help all that much


----------



## maynard14

i can imagine at oc mode my card will get up to 80c but the vrms doesnt have any heatsinks,.. hahah i see,.. yeah temps here in the philippines is about 35c


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Wow your rig is well put toghether love the black red theme awesome looking build!


+1 nice job mate


----------



## ldewitt

Update on my rig:


----------



## blackhat840

So I've got a few questions guys. I got this MSI GTX 780ti GAMING edition the other day, I ordered the Kraken G10 as well as the H90 Corsair water loop. I have not got the card yet, it should arrive today. Does this card already have the VRMs covered by a heat sink or do I even really need them with this card? If I do, what should I order? Would these works? http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_text_z

Here is the card


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhat840*
> 
> So I've got a few questions guys. I got this MSI GTX 780ti GAMING edition the other day, I ordered the Kraken G10 as well as the H90 Corsair water loop. I have not got the card yet, it should arrive today. Does this card already have the VRMs covered by a heat sink or do I even really need them with this card? If I do, what should I order? Would these works? http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_text_z
> 
> Here is the card


It looks like MSI has a "mid plate" that should cool the vram/vrm just fine. The pictures make it look like everything will fit fine, but i dont want to tell you i know 100%, because i dont. But my guess is you will be fine.

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/msi_gtx780_ti_twin_frozr_gaming_oc_review,10.html


----------



## pdasterly

For those with 290x I have some extra gelid heatsinks if interested. I ordered a bunch of them, everyone was back ordered so I ordered from a few different companies. I have them sitting here in front of me.


----------



## blackhat840

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> It looks like MSI has a "mid plate" that should cool the vram/vrm just fine. The pictures make it look like everything will fit fine, but i dont want to tell you i know 100%, because i dont. But my guess is you will be fine.
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/msi_gtx780_ti_twin_frozr_gaming_oc_review,10.html


Thanks Wakalakaz, I was looking for a closer look like this to see if this was there!


----------



## Vendari

Welcome to the new thread Maynard. Uhm, I'd like to chime in on your temps situation. I live in Mindanao, Region X (At most times hotter than where you live) and the very maximum temps I got on my GTX 680sc was on a piping hot noontime (around 37°c according to accuweather) running Heaven 4.0. That was around 50°c and that was only a spike. it averaged out at 46°c doing nothing but a benchmark 20mins after a cold boot. I think you haven't solved your seating problem yet. While upgrading your AIO might solve your problem, it doesn't guarantee it though. Is that Antec620 the same one you lapped? Did you check your TIM if you are applying enough pressure to the GPU die?

EDIT: Sorry, checked my log. It was average of 46°c


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Wow your rig is well put toghether love the black red theme awesome looking build!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *melodystyle2003*
> 
> +1 nice job mate


Thank you guys!


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> Welcome to the new thread Maynard. Uhm, I'd like to chime in on your temps situation. I live in Mindanao, Region X (At most times hotter than where you live) and the very maximum temps I got on my GTX 680sc was on a piping hot noontime (around 37°c according to accuweather) running Heaven 4.0. That was around 50°c and that was only a spike. it averaged out at 46°c doing nothing but a benchmark 20mins after a cold boot. I think you haven't solved your seating problem yet. While upgrading your AIO might solve your problem, it doesn't guarantee it though. Is that Antec620 the same one you lapped? Did you check your TIM if you are applying enough pressure to the GPU die?
> 
> EDIT: Sorry, checked my log. It was average of 46°c


Hi bro, yeah check my tim and the cooler and the die and its a perfect fit and pressure,, haha sorry for my english, but yesterday i already sold my antec kuhler 620,. its very hot in our country bro, but now i ordered gelid vrm heatsinks, and i think ill get them after 1 month haha, and lastly what is the best aio cooler for the 290x, is the h105 or nzxt x60?

i have enough money now to buy and new cooler,. im excited







hopefully when i get the new cooler my load temp will be 52c or 55c so that i can overclock to 1150 core clock and not have to worry about the 100 mv volts added


----------



## Vendari

just get the one that's cheaper or the one that you prefer, they'll perform so closely you won't really need to worry about it. double rad ofcourse will perform better than single rad but mind you single 120mm rad is more than enough even for OC.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> just get the one that's cheaper or the one that you prefer, they'll perform so closely you won't really need to worry about it. double rad ofcourse will perform better than single rad but mind you single 120mm rad is more than enough even for OC.


thanks again bro,. ill buy the kraken x60







hope it will perform well


----------



## Vendari

oh, a side note for 2x140mm rads... there are currently no 140mm fans designed specifically for high static pressure. so a push pull setup may be need to achieve "best temps". That's kinda why the h80i in push/pull with high static pressure fans beat the x40 in push pull. So, keep in mind, you might have to buy after market fans to make your setup ideal.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> oh, a side note for 2x140mm rads... there are currently no 140mm fans designed specifically for high static pressure. so a push pull setup may be need to achieve "best temps". That's kinda why the h80i in push/pull with high static pressure fans beat the x40 in push pull. So, keep in mind, you might have to buy after market fans to make your setup ideal.


my antec kuhler 620 have 2 corsair sp 120 fans push and pull config, ill try to buy anothe 2 sp fans for the kraken x60 for 4 sp fans push and pull


----------



## Vendari

the nzxt x40 and x60 use 140mm fans. you cant use corsair sp120s on them.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> the nzxt x40 and x60 use 140mm fans. you cant use corsair sp120s on them.


oh i see,. damn.,.. i like the design of the sp fans and its static pressure feature,.. oh well i guess AF 140 high performance is still not enough to the nzxt x60,.. how about kraken x40?


----------



## Vendari

Well... i wouldn't go so far as to say two or even four AF140s wont be good on the x60... But there are 140mm fans out there with better static pressure than the af140s... I think Noctua has higher static pressure 140mm fans. Im just saying, You'll spend more money buying an aio that uses different fans than just getting a 240mm or 120mm so you can re-use your existing fans. 240 and 280 rads on gpus wont really make so much a difference if i remember correctly. but I could be wrong.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> Well... i wouldn't go so far as to say two or even four AF140s wont be good on the x60... But there are 140mm fans out there with better static pressure than the af140s... I think Noctua has higher static pressure 140mm fans. Im just saying, You'll spend more money buying an aio that uses different fans than just getting a 240mm or 120mm so you can re-use your existing fans. 240 and 280 rads on gpus wont really make so much a difference if i remember correctly. but I could be wrong.


i see, i understand yeah im planning to re use the sp fans that i have right now, i think ill just buy and kraken x40 or corsair h90.. or i can still buy an kraken x60 and use thew 2 sp fans on my h100i on my cpu

what you think sir is the best thing to do? sorry if i have lots of questions, i juts want the best aio cooler on my r9 290 so that i can oc it and use it 24/7 without worrying my gpus temps


----------



## Vendari

I can't comment on the x40 or x60 because I don't own these AIO coolers. But I have built sooooo many rigs with h100is, h55s,h80is and h75s. My own KrakenG10 mod uses an H55 and it's never gone above 50°c EVER XD in actuality, the most i get in benchmarks is 47°c and during gaming 43°c. I'm only using one SP120PWM fan in push and exhausting, not intake. Summer temps here in Mindanao have been a brutal 34-40°c. I can guarantee you a considerable increase in cooling performance going to a 240mm or 280mm radiator from a 120mm or 140mm rad. So my advice would be this. If you REALLY want a dual fan rad get an H100i cause the rad is thin enough that you won't need to do a push/pull config and you can use the fans you already have. If you want a more price/performance kind of deal, an h55 would be a great deal and even though you won't really need to use a push/pull config on it (since it's rad is 27mm and just as thick as the h100i) if you have 2 fans from your previous cooler then by all means use it in push/pull you'll get a 1°c to 3°c difference at least


----------



## maynard14

but sir h100i is not compatible with nzxt g10 right? it is a square type cooler? really sir? wow ! thats amazing,. what is your card? yes here to in pampanga it is very hot also


----------



## ottoore

Take a look at corsair h105. It's the only one with a 38mm thick radiator. You shold buy 2 120 performant and silent fans ( i don't like corsair fans) such as enermax twister pressure.

You could also gain 4 degrees using liquid metal on the core. but pay attention to electrical contacts around it. bye


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> Take a look at corsair h105. It's the only one with a 38mm thick radiator. You shold buy 2 120 performant and silent fans ( i don't like corsair fans) such as enermax twister pressure.
> 
> You could also gain 4 degrees using liquid metal on the core. but pay attention to electrical contacts around it. bye


thanks bro, i have coolaboratory pro that i use on my delided 3570k,. but im so afraid to use it on my gpu,. haha, i only use noctua nth1 paste,.

i see, ill consider corsair h105, its a same though i cant see the corsair pump underneath the gpu







haha


----------



## Vendari

sorry.. i confused myself... XD yeah the H105 is the right one
EDIT. EVGA GTX680 Superclocked.


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> thanks bro, i have coolaboratory pro that i use on my delided 3570k,. but im so afraid to use it on my gpu,. haha, i only use noctua nth1 paste,.
> 
> i see, ill consider corsair h105, its a same though i cant see the corsair pump underneath the gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha


just pay attention and cover electrical contacts with nail polish or high temperature silicone ( as you did, i think, with your i5)


----------



## maynard14

thanks for your advice sir...but for now ill just use my noctua nth1.. thanks again. ill post the result when i got the h105..


----------



## DavidLeeRoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> Well I happen to have access to my dad's machine shop, so I can just built a custom heatsink to cool the VRM's.


I made heatsink for my Gigabyte GTX 770 2GB version VRM's from one of these old Dell CPU coolers:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-9Y692-Dimension-2400-3000-4600-8300-CPU-Heat-Sink-Cooler-Intel-Socket-478-/281288876627?pt=DE_Computer_CPUs_K%C3%BChler_CPU_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item417e1fa253

You need iron saw, sanding paper and tons of time.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidLeeRoth*
> 
> I made heatsink for my Gigabyte GTX 770 2GB version VRM's from one of these old Dell CPU coolers:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-9Y692-Dimension-2400-3000-4600-8300-CPU-Heat-Sink-Cooler-Intel-Socket-478-/281288876627?pt=DE_Computer_CPUs_K%C3%BChler_CPU_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item417e1fa253
> 
> You need iron saw, sanding paper and tons of time.


Well I can literally go find a piece of scrap aluminum, cut it to measure my card, and then choose how tall to make it. It shouldn't take me more than 20 minutes.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> Well I can literally go find a piece of scrap aluminum, cut it to measure my card, and then choose how tall to make it. It shouldn't take me more than zminutes.


I keep meaning to get measurements! Soon they will come i been really busy holiday weekend and messing with this tablet lol.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I keep meaning to get measurements! Soon they will come i been really busy holiday weekend and messing with this tablet lol.


You've got time. I still have two weeks and a few days until class/finals are over. I haven't had any extra time to do anything due to the ridiculous amount of homework, tests, and social life stuff I have going on right now (Obvious by how quiet I've been on here). That being said, my dad said I can make a few different models, and if we see a decent response, he'll consider entering that market. Just depends on how much interest we get, but I can for sure make a few for a few different model cards. And I hope you're enjoying that tablet!


----------



## v3n0m90

Tell me if this is a little high for temps (I think it kind of is).

System:
ASUS ROG Matrix 280x
Corsair h55
2 Corsair sp120 in push pull (Intake)

Idle - 32-35
Load (Crysis 3) 74-75 after I finished playing for about 15 minutes. I also noticed some artifacts during the game.
Load (Fur Mark) - 75-80


----------



## gopackersjt

That does seem high... my 770 never gets above 45C in Crysis 3. Are you sure you've got it screwed down tight enough? And are you overclocking at all?


----------



## wapeddell

Hey guys just setup my G10 with H55 but I'm getting like 60 in game and idle 50 is the normal?


----------



## wapeddell

Ok just tested Wolfstein and hit 80 can someone tell me whats the issue? Also, is MSI afterburning a good tool for checking temps?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Wapedell, please give us more info on your setup so we can help you


----------



## wapeddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Wapedell, please give us more info on your setup so we can help you


Such as what? Here is my case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129200

I have both Corsair H55 and H110 although the H110 doesn't mount any where I may try something with it.


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> That does seem high... my 770 never gets above 45C in Crysis 3. Are you sure you've got it screwed down tight enough? And are you overclocking at all?


I might take it all out tomorrow and check the thermal paste and make sure it is tight. I think I used to much paste in the first place.


----------



## Wingless Wonder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> That does seem high... my 770 never gets above 45C in Crysis 3. Are you sure you've got it screwed down tight enough? And are you overclocking at all?


AMD's 280X is a completely different animal than NVIDIA cards. They all run hotter than their green team counterparts. Yes, even when using a Kraken G10 and an AIO cooler. The AMDs show much cooling improvement with the G10 combo, but it's relative to how hot they were running before the cooling add-on.


----------



## wapeddell

Ok so I took out the rubber washers and took the rubber washer off the bottom of the screws tighten everything and now I'm idling around 40 and getting 55 in game. There is a weird glitch on startup of the pc where it will fluctuate from 40 to 90 then once the computer has finish booting it stays at 40. Also, this issue occurs in game where it will jump all the way up to 90 then go back down to 55 so I'm guessing this is someting with my motherboard I will report back if anything else occurs.


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wingless Wonder*
> 
> AMD's 280X is a completely different animal than NVIDIA cards. They all run hotter than their green team counterparts. Yes, even when using a Kraken G10 and an AIO cooler. The AMDs show much cooling improvement with the G10 combo, but it's relative to how hot they were running before the cooling add-on.


Before the g10 addon, it was about the same. The idle temp might be a little lower. But 75 was always what it would get to when playing a game that put a load on the GPU.


----------



## Wingless Wonder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v3n0m90*
> 
> Before the g10 addon, it was about the same. The idle temp might be a little lower. But 75 was always what it would get to when playing a game that put a load on the GPU.


If the G10 hasn't made any significant difference, then I'd proceed as you posted earlier (thermal paste & tightness check). Is your H55 radiator mounted with the two hoses in the lower position? I had an H80i that had an issue with air in the system (you could hear the gurgling sound when the radiator was tipped back and forth) and when mounted the wrong way (hoses at top) the temps for my cpu would skyrocket. It didn't become an issue until about two weeks after I mounted it that way.


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wingless Wonder*
> 
> If the G10 hasn't made any significant difference, then I'd proceed as you posted earlier (thermal paste & tightness check). Is your H55 radiator mounted with the two hoses in the lower position? I had an H80i that had an issue with air in the system (you could hear the gurgling sound when the radiator was tipped back and forth) and when mounted the wrong way (hoses at top) the temps for my cpu would skyrocket. It didn't become an issue until about two weeks after I mounted it that way.


My h55 is mounted with hoses coming from the top so maybe I will try that first. I looked on a corsair forum and apparently the orientation of the rad shouldn't matter. It also says that in the manual according to the poster.

It did make gurgling noises when I first put it in but they stopped after about 30 seconds.


----------



## Wingless Wonder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v3n0m90*
> 
> My h55 is mounted with hoses coming from the top so maybe I will try that first. I looked on a corsair forum and apparently the orientation of the rad shouldn't matter. It also says that in the manual according to the poster.
> 
> It did make gurgling noises when I first put it in but they stopped after about 30 seconds.


Maybe it won't make any difference in most cases if there is no appreciable air in the system, but take a look at the Corsair manual (PDF) and the FAQ on page 9:

http://www.corsair.com/~/media/Corsair/download-files/manuals/49-000182_rev_AB_H55_QSG_web.pdf

"4. Do I mount the radiator hose up or down?
*For optimized cooling, Corsair recommends the radiator is mounted hose down.*"


----------



## richie_2010

hi guys can i ask someone a question.

i have made some backplates to fit high end cards and they work with every cooling option available, but i need to ensure that the hardware i include to mount these is correct for the kraken.

my question is:
what is the height from the pcb to the top of the kraken backplate and then to the screws, and what is the diam of the backplate screws.

i would really appreciate your assistance in this.

also if your interested in a backplate check out my sig.


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wingless Wonder*
> 
> Maybe it won't make any difference in most cases if there is no appreciable air in the system, but take a look at the Corsair manual (PDF) and the FAQ on page 9:
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/~/media/Corsair/download-files/manuals/49-000182_rev_AB_H55_QSG_web.pdf
> 
> "4. Do I mount the radiator hose up or down?
> *For optimized cooling, Corsair recommends the radiator is mounted hose down.*"


Huh. Guess I should have checked the manual myself. Well I know I used to my thermal paste and as much as I don't want to take it off. I guess I have too. I'll also try mounting with the hoses down and see if that helps at all.


----------



## shwarz

I have a H55 with the hoses mounted sideways no difference in temps still max of 40 degrees on my r290


----------



## v3n0m90

Ok. So, for the whole hoses having to go one way or the other. I figured I would test it out just to see and let you guys know if it was true or not.

I ran FurMake for a few minutes with each position and after a few minutes, both reached 54-55. So hose position doesn't really matter to much


----------



## shwarz

sounds like u sorted out your temps then


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shwarz*
> 
> sounds like u sorted out your temps then


I did







too much thermal paste I think. I stupidly used the amount you would use for a cpu -_-

Thanks for all the input guys!


----------



## Wakalakaz

Wasn't happy with my VRM temps so i went ahead and did the reference cooler mod for the r9 290x, was a little tricky buy ended up working quite nice. VRM1 tesmps went from about 80 degC under load to closert to 60 max under load., i think imma keep the GPU at stock untill i need to overclock it tho. I was asble to get it to 1200 gou clock and 1300 vram, but the performance difference wasnt too big in the end. Overall im very glad id did it to keep those temps down, playing at 80- degC was making me nervous.

http://imgur.com/a/GoWSa


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Wasn't happy with my VRM temps so i went ahead and did the reference cooler mod for the r9 290x, was a little tricky buy ended up working quite nice. VRM1 tesmps went from about 80 degC under load to closert to 60 max under load., i think imma keep the GPU at stock untill i need to overclock it tho. I was asble to get it to 1200 gou clock and 1300 vram, but the performance difference wasnt too big in the end. Overall im very glad id did it to keep those temps down, playing at 80- degC was making me nervous.
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/GoWSa


2 advices:
- substitute stock vrm1 pad with Fujipoly ultra 1mm
- cut vrm1 side, vram gets warmer because of common plate.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Thanks for the advice! I have already remounted the plate and kraken : /. I wish i had known about these options before, but by now im afraid it may not be worth it. I always get real nervous when taken the kraken on and off and dealing with the bare GPU plate. For now the temps im getting I am much much happier with so i think i will leave it. but again, i appreciate the advice.


----------



## mystikalrush

Do yall know if the Thermal paste on the Kraken x40 is good enough for the GPU? Is it high quality or should i use IC Diamond?


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> sorry.. i confused myself... XD yeah the H105 is the right one
> EDIT. EVGA GTX680 Superclocked.


I have a 680 and thinking of doing the G10 method, what heatsinks were needed for the overall setup? Also is cooling the VRAM recommended?


----------



## Vendari

If you go my route, I modded the stock unisink to accommodate the H55. My rationale was that the unisink cooled the VRAMs and the VRMs more than individually adhered heatspreaders. Works pretty damn good. Although I don't have any way of accurately measuring the temps of the VRAM or (more importantly) the VRMs, I touched the back of the PCB as well as the unisink and it was not at all uncomfortable to the touch. Wasn't even hot enough to hurt in the slightest. This was running Heaven 4.0 benchmark at max settings for about 20mins. If you feel uncomfortable cutting up/grinding down your unisink you can either ask someone you know to do it for you or opt for aftermarket vrm & vram heatsinks. If you can get any heatsinks that you can screw on or apply pressure to the cooled component, that would be ideal. You can look at my "mod log" if you're interested. It's quite ghetto but it serves it's purpose very well. It's on post *#59* and *#60* i believe. And some pics here for the tools i used and other misc stuff you might find useful.


Above is a picture of the RTX bits I used.

And here's a picture so you have an idea where the VRMs are located.


----------



## mystikalrush

Thanks for the picture diagram! Do you know of the paste pre applied to the kraken x40/60 is good?


----------



## pdasterly

I have corsair 540 case with kraken g10 on r9 290x. Logic would say to push air out the case but when I did that my temps rose by 10c. I had fan mounted directly behind card and even with the hot exhausted air from radiator, the card remained cooler than pushing the hotair out the case. Weird


----------



## Vendari

Preapplied paste of both Corsair and NZXT are very good. Going for an after market solution is only an option if you wanna squeeze every last bit of cooling performance out of your build. I'd use the pre-applied and then replace it after a year or two.


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*
> 
> Do yall know if the Thermal paste on the Kraken x40 is good enough for the GPU? Is it high quality or should i use IC Diamond?


All AIO with asetek pump have same TIM.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*
> 
> Do yall know if the Thermal paste on the Kraken x40 is good enough for the GPU? Is it high quality or should i use IC Diamond?


Yeah I wouldn't use the stock crap anyways. I bought my H55 new with the paste on it, and just used alcohol and a microfiber cloth to remove it then installed Antec Formula 7 Diamond Compound. Seems to work very well since I haven't gone above 50c while playing BF4 on ultra(with it 80f (26c) + in my room)


----------



## Stratys

Finally got my replacement screw set from NZXT after breaking one of the screws during my initial installation a while ago. I was astounded by my new temps after installing the G10 paired with a H90 on my ASUS GTX770.

I haven't done any extensive tests yet but just from observation Idle temps are +/-24c, down from +/-38c before. While playing Wolfenstein: TNO temps hovered between 30-32c and with Watch Dogs between 35-38c, was pushing over +60c before. Overall a 20-30 degree difference was well worth the time and money.

The Cougar fans I'm using with my radiators are excellent too, I leave them on full power as the vibration of them running is more noticeable than their noise and they seem to moving air just the right way based off the temps I'm getting on my CPU and GPU.

running push-pull blowing air in from the front for the G10/H90


----------



## Radmanhs

just wondering where should i attach the fan on the bracket to.

Thanks


----------



## ldewitt

I plugged mine into a 4 pin fan header on my motherboard.

Note: mine isn't a cha# fan(chassis fan).


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering where should i attach the fan on the bracket to.
> 
> Thanks


fan controller


----------



## Jeffro422

So I see the original tall pump H50 doesn't work with the Kraken G10.

But I found this post where it looks like a guy got it to work. I just want to know how!?
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745650


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*
> 
> So I see the original tall pump H50 doesn't work with the Kraken G10.
> 
> But I found this post where it looks like a guy got it to work. I just want to know how!?
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745650


To be honest I didn't see why It wouldn't work in the first place I imagine that the teeth on the pump and die are the same distance on the H50 and H55. You should post asking if he had any issues or had to modify anything to get the H50 mounted. Probably had to squeeze the pump through the kraken harder than normal, I feel like the last guy to try it wasn't putting enough muscle into it. LOL


----------



## Radmanhs

Well i finally got my system up and running. My 290 idles at 34 and maxes at 61 unless if i drop the power of my pump which is on my case fan controller which maxes then at 64 and it doesn't even make any less noise. My vrms max in the low and mid 70's when stressed. I did ask my testing with Furmark


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Well i finally got my system up and running. My 290 idles at 34 and maxes at 61 unless if i drop the power of my pump which is on my case fan controller which maxes then at 64 and it doesn't even make any less noise. My vrms max in the low and mid 70's when stressed. I did ask my testing with Furmark


Which AIO?


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> To be honest I didn't see why It wouldn't work in the first place I imagine that the teeth on the pump and die are the same distance on the H50 and H55. You should post asking if he had any issues or had to modify anything to get the H50 mounted. Probably had to squeeze the pump through the kraken harder than normal, I feel like the last guy to try it wasn't putting enough muscle into it. LOL


He replied to my PM and had no issue geting through it seems. I bent the g10 trying to fit it through. Mayfe I had it orientated wrong but that shouldn't make a differece either. It seems there is a small lip on the h50 making it just a tad too wide to go through. I ordered an h55 since my old h50 wouldnt fit last night. I'll try again tonight.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*
> 
> He replied to my PM and had no issue geting through it seems. I bent the g10 trying to fit it through. Mayfe I had it orientated wrong but that shouldn't make a differece either. It seems there is a small lip on the h50 making it just a tad too wide to go through. I ordered an h55 since my old h50 wouldnt fit last night. I'll try again tonight.


Well i mean worst comes to worst file a little off the lip....But i guess if it doesn't fit and you've already ordered your H55 leave it alone


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well i mean worst comes to worst file a little off the lip....But i guess if it doesn't fit and you've already ordered your H55 leave it alone


I will mess with it today and might file it if need be. Its five years old or almost. So I've gotten my money worth. I also liked the idea of having a warranty since my h50 is so old.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Well i finally got my system up and running. My 290 idles at 34 and maxes at 61 unless if i drop the power of my pump which is on my case fan controller which maxes then at 64 and it doesn't even make any less noise. My vrms max in the low and mid 70's when stressed. I did ask my testing with Furmark
> 
> 
> 
> Which AIO?
Click to expand...

zalman lq320, i got it for $40 a while ago on Newegg with a sale and rebate. When it idles it is just a tad quieter then the normal cooler bur when i stress test it doesn't get any louder at all. Also the gap between the zalman in the back and my swiftech in the top is so small i literally couldn't shove my fingernail between the two rads.


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> zalman lq320, i got it for $40 a while ago on Newegg with a sale and rebate. When it idles it is just a tad quieter then the normal cooler bur when i stress test it doesn't get any louder at all. Also the gap between the zalman in the back and my swiftech in the top is so small i literally couldn't shove my fingernail between the two rads.











I wanted to buy zalman lq315 or lq320 for their thick radiators. Finally i get corsair h105. I really prefer thick radiator with good fan you can get good performance with low noise.


----------



## Radmanhs

what case are you using? for a while i thought i wasnt going to be able to fit this rad in, i was about to take a dremel to my case. Does anyone know if my temps are good? considering how hot the card runs normally


----------



## pdasterly

Looking for fan controller, I have 9 fans and 3 aio cooler pumps. The corsair link is sold out as is the nzxt lxe, there are some on ebay but they are marked up double the price. Dual bay ok. Touchscreen


----------



## Radmanhs

aquaero 6 pro

expensive, but nice


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to buy zalman lq315 or lq320 for their thick radiators. Finally i get corsair h105. I really prefer thick radiator with good fan you can get good performance with low noise.


hi there sir, are you suing h105 corsair with r9 290 and nzxt g10?

if so what are your temps sir? im still waiting for my gelid vrm heatsinks, so i still havent buy any aio cooler


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> aquaero 6 pro
> 
> expensive, but nice


Guy says 9 fans and 3 aio coolers and you recommend a 4 fan controller....

That corsair link looks dope though.


----------



## pdasterly

3 aio coolers take 6 fans, plus I have 3 case fans. I have the corsair 540 case.


----------



## Radmanhs

I recommended that because i assume you would put some sort of splitter on them. 1 channel for each rad then 1 more for the case fans


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> what case are you using? for a while i thought i wasnt going to be able to fit this rad in, i was about to take a dremel to my case. Does anyone know if my temps are good? considering how hot the card runs normally


I've got a Cooler Master Haf Xm. i've a problem with hose lenght, only nzxt AIOs have a lenght of 40cm, others only 30cm.
yours temp are ok. Did you use stock paste? Probably if you change it with good Pk-3, gelid GC or noctua paste you'll gain 2-3 degrees.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> hi there sir, are you suing h105 corsair with r9 290 and nzxt g10?
> 
> if so what are your temps sir? im still waiting for my gelid vrm heatsinks, so i still havent buy any aio cooler


Now i'm using Prolimatech mk-26 on my r9 290. It's not good, you achieve good results nly with 2 performant fans such as scythe gentle Typhoon at 4000rpm. I would have kept stock cooler i f i know it before...

Now i have g10 and corsair h105 but i'll mount it next week.

This is what i did for cooling vrms



I put Fujipoly ultra pad under it. 55 degrees during game. I cover 5 vram modules with vrm2 plate because Prolimatech mk-26 has only 12 heatsinks for vram...


----------



## Radmanhs

I'm using the paste that came with my H220 and in fine with it for now even though somehow the backplate got put on upside-down, its not worth the trouble


----------



## dawnoftheh3ro

I just put a second 780 FTW in my case. Annnnnd the top card is like sweltering hot. These really are terrible coolers in sli. I looked into water cooling them but there isn't a full cover waterblock for the FTW due to the custom PCB. Will the G10 fit the FTW? Also would aftermarket heatsinks for the VRMs work/fit as well?


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dawnoftheh3ro*
> 
> I just put a second 780 FTW in my case. Annnnnd the top card is like sweltering hot. These really are terrible coolers in sli. I looked into water cooling them but there isn't a full cover waterblock for the FTW due to the custom PCB. Will the G10 fit the FTW? Also would aftermarket heatsinks for the VRMs work/fit as well?


As long as the holes that mount the card's heat sink are reference spacing, then yes the G10 will fit. As far as VRM heat sinks go, they will fit.


----------



## dawnoftheh3ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> As long as the holes that mount the card's heat sink are reference spacing, then yes the G10 will fit. As far as VRM heat sinks go, they will fit.


Hmm...thank you for responding! Any idea how to find that out and be sure? I mean, I don't really even know what is "custom" about the pcb other than the tiny little dual bios switch on the left side of the pcb.


----------



## Obi-Shinobi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> To be honest I didn't see why It wouldn't work in the first place I imagine that the teeth on the pump and die are the same distance on the H50 and H55. You should post asking if he had any issues or had to modify anything to get the H50 mounted. Probably had to squeeze the pump through the kraken harder than normal, I feel like the last guy to try it wasn't putting enough muscle into it. LOL


What part of it don't fit do you not understand? The pump on the tall H50 is WIDER because of the bezel. ***


----------



## Biggen

Hey guys. Getting ready to join the club soon. I have a HIS R9 290X incoming so I went ahead and ordered a G10 and a H55. Do I really need to bother with putting heatsinks on the VRMs? If so, is there a heatsink kit for reference 290Xs? I really don't know what to get.


----------



## Radmanhs

ya, I just got my g10 set up with my r9 290 and If i didn't have the heatsink on one of the vrms i would have fried my card almost. it allows you to overvolt your card a lot more and get a lot more performance. right now im at 1180/1450 and i boosted the voltage 80mv and the vrm 1 maxes at 80c. Maybe if you add a tiny fan like the 40mm noctua facing the vrm you might be able to squeeze a bit more out since it will actually get some air flow


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> To be honest I didn't see why It wouldn't work in the first place I imagine that the teeth on the pump and die are the same distance on the H50 and H55. You should post asking if he had any issues or had to modify anything to get the H50 mounted. Probably had to squeeze the pump through the kraken harder than normal, I feel like the last guy to try it wasn't putting enough muscle into it. LOL


Well Nance pants, maybe there's rev 1 rev 2 of the h50 who knows not me I just see that in this post he has one on his kraken:
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745650


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Hey guys. Getting ready to join the club soon. I have a HIS R9 290X incoming so I went ahead and ordered a G10 and a H55. Do I really need to bother with putting heatsinks on the VRMs? If so, is there a heatsink kit for reference 290Xs? I really don't know what to get.


Very recommended to buy a vrm heatsink kit for the 290x somewhere in this thread is a link for a gelid 290x heatsink kit. I'm on my phone so I'm not gone hunt it down. But shouldn't be hard to find search gelid vrm kit on Google bet it pops up.

Decided to find it anyways for you:
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-ICY290


----------



## jason387

Will the NZXT G10 fit on the Zotac Gtx 650Ti 1GB card? This is a link to the card that I have- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500286


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well Nance pants, maybe there's rev 1 rev 2 of the h50 who knows not me I just see that in this post he has one on his kraken:
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745650


Yea I followed up with the guy on overclockers.com but he had nothing more to offer, his simply fit, unlike anyone elses. I do remember back when I bought my original H50 almost 5 years ago there were 2 serial numbers for the H50. One including mounting for AMD and one didn't. There could have been other revisions besides that since the H50 with the tall pump was around for a long time.

My new H55 came with the slim pump and it fits right in the Kraken. Gelid VRM kit and copper heatsinks for VRAM should be here monday. Then I can finally get away from 94c.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dawnoftheh3ro*
> 
> Hmm...thank you for responding! Any idea how to find that out and be sure? I mean, I don't really even know what is "custom" about the pcb other than the tiny little dual bios switch on the left side of the pcb.


What I did was Google a picture of a reference pcb of my card, and then googled a picture of my cards pcb and just kind of eyeballed it.


----------



## Biggen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*
> 
> My new H55 came with the slim pump and it fits right in the Kraken. Gelid VRM kit and copper heatsinks for VRAM should be here monday. Then I can finally get away from 94c.


Where did you get your VRM kit?


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Where did you get your VRM kit?


I got the kit from Superbiiz. I ordered about 48 hours ago. http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-ICY290
Only problem is that it's now out of stock. Sorry, must have snagged one of the last ones.


----------



## Biggen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*
> 
> I got the kit from Superbiiz. I ordered about 48 hours ago. http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-ICY290
> Only problem is that it's now out of stock. Sorry, must have snagged one of the last ones.


Thanks ok. At least I know now which kit is the right one. Thanks!


----------



## wapeddell

for those that have a heat spreader glued to the gpu similar to the image gpu chip with a liquid cooler wonder why they are getting high temps that image is why it's because that little piece my finger is on is not allowing you to fully seat the liquid cooler onto the actual gpu it's self if you look at the thermal compound you will see that it's barely any in the gpu at all if any one knows of a safe method to remove this please share with the community how hope this helps everyone with temp issues.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

well my 780 crapped out on me... I was playing some warthunder and my pc suddenly shut off. When I opened the case and turned it back on smoke came from the side of my 780. After closer inspection it looks like a little solid state capacitor went bad. Its not the vrms... not sure what it is. so i pulled everything apart and in the process of an RMA. Thankfully I have evga for warranty so i know im covered.

here is a pic of a pcb and that red circle is were it seems to have gone bad. Any idea what that is?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> well my 780 crapped out on me... I was playing some warthunder and my pc suddenly shut off. When I opened the case and turned it back on smoke came from the side of my 780. After closer inspection it looks like a little solid state capacitor went bad. Its not the vrms... not sure what it is. so i pulled everything apart and in the process of an RMA. Thankfully I have evga for warranty so i know im covered.
> 
> here is a pic of a pcb and that red circle is were it seems to have gone bad. Any idea what that is?


Reference design yea?

What was your G10 setup with respect to any auxilliary cooling and configuration?

Also, what clockspeeds and voltages (including any auxilliary and memory voltage) were you using plus any Power Limiter firmware mods

http://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/316999/ANPEC/APW7142/150/1/APW7142.html

According to the datasheet, that's a voltage regulator. More specifically, it takes in 4.3-14V and converts it to fine grained voltage beginning at 0.8V with incremental stepping. It is rated for a current supply of 3A and maximum operating temperature of 150 degrees centigrade.
Judging by how it is separate from the rest of the VRM assembly, that device is likely at least partially responsible for the VRAM but its hard to say.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

um i was usuing an overclock of 1200 and memory had +130. power target was at 106% and i didnt mess with the voltage. I used prescion X I used a h55 and had the backside cooler off of my twinturbo3 to cool the memory and vrms from the backside. it worked fine for over a month until last night.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

could it have been somthing with my Powesupply overvolting or somthing?


----------



## Dasboogieman

That component did have Overvoltage and overcurrent protection built in but it also had a subroutine where it would shut down if temperatures hit 150 degrees.

Its hard to say as to the mode of failure but the likely culprit is overcurrent from a power surge judging by the sudden failure and the fact the stock cooler actually doesn't cool this part directly via thermal pads.
A less plausible explanation is if a thermal pad wasn't placed on the backside of the card for this part, it is possible that the layer of air acted as an insulator and thus the chip cooked itself.

What's your power supply?


----------



## shwarz

ill leave this here



cpu: 3570k oc to 4.6ghz antec 650 watercooled
motherboard: gigabyte ga-z77x-ud3h
memory: gskill ares 2x4gb oc to 1866mhz
video card 1: asus r9 290 water cooled with kraken g10 and intel watercooler
video card 2: xfx r9 290 water cooled with kraken g10 and corsair h55
sound card: asus xonar dgx
storage:
ocz vertex 4 Solid state drive
2x1tb samsung spinpoint in raid 0
case: corsair 540 Air
psu: coolermaster m1000w

price: undisclosed lol


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

corsair 850hx


----------



## wapeddell

I like how I ask questions and no one seems to answer me. Does any know how to remove the heat spreader in this image?


----------



## pdasterly

Looks like you need a copper shim on gpu die


----------



## wapeddell

As you can see from the image there is barely any thermal compound on the gpu I talk with a pc repair man and he told me by adding a additional layer can also cause heat issues. He also told me the only thing possible to solving this is to have the cooler make direct contact with the gpu. Thus, removing the heat spreader is the only plausible solution.


----------



## wapeddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Looks like you need a copper shim on gpu die


If you don't mind me asking are you sure this solution will work or not sure? Also, would I have to remove the heat spreader and replace it with the copper shim or no?


----------



## pdasterly

Copper shim is cheap, if I were in your situation I would give that a try before you do anything you would regret. Get a shim that sits on die only, ebay has them


----------



## wapeddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Copper shim is cheap, if I were in your situation I would give that a try before you do anything you would regret. Get a shim that sits on die only, ebay has them


I got you, the pc repair technician also recommended not removing the heat spreader and I'm running out of ideas that's why I turned to this forum because I know there are more experienced people with this sort of situation. Although, do you think this will cause another heat issue? My stock reference cooler have a emboss area for the gpu. For example, in picture provided you will see what area is embossed and what area is flat. What I'm afraid of is that even if I get the copper shim it will not touch the GPU, my liquid cooler is also flat, now if they have a embossed area that will touch the gpu then this will resolve my issue but does this sort of thing even exist?


----------



## cravinmild

You are fine with a copper shim and keeping the metal ring around the gpu die. I use a copper shim and i can get as low as 16c on my titan (not using G10) so there may be some loss of effectiveness but a shim will not add so much heat the card will fail.


----------



## wapeddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> You are fine with a copper shim and keeping the metal ring around the gpu die. I use a copper shim and i can get as low as 16c on my titan (not using G10) so there may be some loss of effectiveness but a shim will not add so much heat the card will fail.


Ok nice do you have a link for the proper size copper shim for a gpu because I would rather make the right decision the first time around.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wapeddell*
> 
> I like how I ask questions and no one seems to answer me. Does any know how to remove the heat spreader in this image?


Wait so have you tried using the G10 with the AIO cooler?

That protector for the GPU is fairly precision engineered, however 95% of GPU aircoolers have poor contact with the die anyway so its probably not the GPU die's fault.

If you go for an AIO cooler, most of them should have a very good contact point ( i can vouch for the Corsair H90) which actually slightly convexes towards the edge (thus the contact is so good you can actually crack your GPU die with enough force)

If you stick to the air cooler, use a high bulk conductivity thermal paste like Phobya HeGrease Extreme (not the Nanogrease stuff) or IC Diamond. The AMD stock cooler was never really great so don't expect miracles but better paste might net some decent improvements. The Copper shim will also work wonders if you find the right thickness you need.


----------



## pdasterly

Measure the gpu


----------



## maynard14

Haha still 66c max load after i replace my antec 620 to brand new antec 920 push pull configuration using 2 corsair sp fans

maybe my ambient temp has something to do with my temp output

heres my set up:


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wapeddell*
> 
> As you can see from the image there is barely any thermal compound on the gpu I talk with a pc repair man and he told me by adding a additional layer can also cause heat issues. He also told me the only thing possible to solving this is to have the cooler make direct contact with the gpu. Thus, removing the heat spreader is the only plausible solution.


Cooper shims are officially recommended and required by NZXT themselves for certain Radeon cards. It says it in the compatibility section for the G10 on their website.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> Haha still 66c max load after i replace my antec 620 to brand new antec 920 push pull configuration using 2 corsair sp fans
> 
> maybe my ambient temp has something to do with my temp output
> 
> heres my set up:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Where do you have your power supply? Outside of case?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wapeddell*
> 
> Ok nice do you have a link for the proper size copper shim for a gpu because I would rather make the right decision the first time around.


Just search GPU copper shim, should all be the same size. If its to big just take some snips and trimm it, but i don't think you'll have issues.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Where do you have your power supply? Outside of case?
> Just search GPU copper shim, should all be the same size. If its to big just take some snips and trimm it, but i don't think you'll have issues.


hi sir, no the psu is in the otherside of the case, my case is corsair 540 air, and its really cool case and lots of airflow, but my room is really hot thats why i think my gpu temp is not that low.


----------



## pdasterly

I have same case, gpu temps never go above 60c, vrm heat up though when oc'd


----------



## xDeceiver

after spending many hours last night and all day today researching about the g10, i was about to pull the trigger on one + an h55 + some ram heatsinks in an attempt to make some sort of shoddy vrm heatsink, I just found this ---> http://www.anandtech.com/show/8105/corsair-presents-the-hydro-series-hg10-liquid-gpu-cooling-bracket

Such a relief as i quite nervous about the vrm temps being high affecting the longevity of my $700 graphics card. I'm really just looking for something that'll run quieter than the reference fans on my 780 ti, be able to support a pretty hefty OC, and not have the GPU run at 80+.

It's being released sometime in june and is compatible with all of Corsair's Hydro series and most likely many others. Only $10 more the the g10, which if you take into consideration the price you'd spend on the vrm + vram heatsinks, this is actually cheaper and will (hopefully) perform better.

Also if anyone is interested, newegg is having a sale on the H80i for $75 with promo code EMCPEHC69 (ends today! @ 3am EST i believe ) and H55 for $55 ($45 after rebate) with code EMCPEHA39 (ends 6/4).

I'm contemplating whether i want the H50 or the H80i. I don't have much time! Anyone could recommend one over the other?

**EDIT: apparently the version being released in june is the A1 version and is only compatible with 290(X), and the N1 version will support 780 (Ti), 770 which is due in Q3 (NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!. I got so excited i missed that bit when reading.

So now i guess i ask myself: should a buy an closed loop cooler now and just set it aside, or wait till the N1 version releases and hope to get a deal on one then? hmmmm.


----------



## pdasterly

Changed out thermal paste on corsair h75, gpu temps are stuck at 50c, gaming or testing. I used some cheap stuff called deep bomb. Temps dropped 10-17c

I have 290x crossfire, both gpu wont go past 50c. Ive been running all kinds of crazy tests to put gpu load on. Vrm1 69c, vrm2 65c. Test ran for approx 1 hour


----------



## solix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Heya
> 
> Newbie to this club, but for what its worth, I'll share my experiences for future enterprising owners.
> I have mounted a Corsair H90 on to a Sapphire 290 Tri X using the G10. My case is the CM HAF 932 and my CPU cooler is the Noctua NH D14
> 
> 1. MEASURE YOUR 120/140mm slot before getting an AIO. I have a HAF923 and the H90 doesn't actually fit in to the 140mm back slot (with hoses oriented towards the ground) with a Noctua NH D14, couldn't fit it sideways since the pump blocks the side panel from closing. In the end, I lashed the radiator in to the 5.25 inch bays. In hindsight, I would've purchased a 120mm radiator AIO knowing this.
> 
> 2. AIO Hose length, more is better. I would advise against the H90 for future buyers, this is cost optimized for the CPU cooling thus the hose is 4 inches shorter than the Kraken X40 despite identical specs (both are identical Asetek units) This extra 4 inches would've allowed me to mount the rad at the rear with the hoses oriented towards the ceiling (thus not needing to be zip tied) and still use the NH D14.
> 
> 3. Mounting: the bracket has to be mounted to the GPU with the AIO, I suggest clearing space in the case prior to doing this since this will ease the final insertion of the GPU + AIO assembly later. Only 2-3 turns of the screw driver is neccessary, the fit is quite snug, any more and you risk cracking the GPU die or warping the PCB.
> 
> Results
> The Sapphire Tri X cooler was a brilliant design, the fans were placed in such a way that the air from the 3rd fan blows directly on to the VRM 1 area which was direct contact cooled with the whole heatsink frame.
> Thus, at 50% fan speed (barely audible) the core is 72 degrees (ambient 22) and VRM1 is around (75 degrees), VRM 2 is 45 degrees in EVGA OC scanner (a variant of Furmark)
> 
> Kraken G10 + H90 with no additional VRM cooling
> The overall noise is equivalent to the Tri X at 40% fan speed
> The core never peaks above 45 degrees but VRM 1 hovers around 82 degrees, VRM 2 reaches 60 degrees in EVGA OC scanner
> 
> Thus, I strongly recommend aftermarket VRM heatsinks if you want to overclock or using high stress apps, while the 92mm fan does a respectable job, there's actually an air dead zone in the VRM 1 assembly which lies directly under the 92mm fan's motor. If any of you has seen the Puget systems review, I believe this manifests as the giant red spot on the thermal camera.
> I recommend also either thermal adhesive (Arctic Alumina is the safest as I have read read 1 report of someone blowing a board fuse using excessive Arctic Silver adhesive) or a screw type heatsink assembly.
> DON'T use Sekisui 5760 for the VRM1 area. This tape has maximum adhesion around the 50-60 degree temperature range, 70-80 starts to see a degradation in the bond as the glue becomes less viscous. debonding starts to happen at 90-100 degrees over repeated cycles.
> 
> Useful dimensions and features:
> On a reference AMD board, the distance from the first screw hole centre to the second centre on the VRM 1 area is 85mm
> The height clearance from the RAM chip to the NZXT bracket is ~5mm
> The height clearance from the VRM 1 zone to the NXZT bracket is ~6mm
> The width of the VRM area from the Choke to the nearest capacitor is 13mm
> The whole assembly takes 2 slots.
> The AMD VRMs are metallic and despite the size difference, are the exact same height.
> 
> I have just ordered the GELID Enhancement kit for 290X from these guys http://www.feppaspot.com/servlet/the-897/GELID-Solutions-Icy-Vision/Detail so I don't have to DIY my own VRM sink.


Funny, I was just PM'ing Dasboogieman about this and how I wanted to just machine through the Tri-X for a block and leave the rest if only I had a machine shop. Then I saw this in the news: http://www.anandtech.com/show/8105/corsair-presents-the-hydro-series-hg10-liquid-gpu-cooling-bracket

Wishful thinking perhaps for the Tri-X... but just can't sleep at night with a 40c core and 90c+ VRMs and lack of ability to monitor VRAM temps on the Tri-X with a G10.

To G10/H75 x2 for crossfire 290Xs or to not... *sigh*

Anyone else have success with the G10 and after market additions like the GELID Solutions CL-R9290-01-A R9 290 Series VRM Cooling Enhancement Kit?

Edit: Oops. xDeceiver, just noticed your post with the link as well. Seems like many of us are in the same boat here...


----------



## solix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Hey guys. Getting ready to join the club soon. I have a HIS R9 290X incoming so I went ahead and ordered a G10 and a H55. Do I really need to bother with putting heatsinks on the VRMs? If so, is there a heatsink kit for reference 290Xs? I really don't know what to get.


The egg has the 290/290X sinks now: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426042


----------



## Peter2222

so if i were to buy a 780 TI with a Twin frozr, could i put a kraken g10 on it without having to put on Vrm heatsinks?
since the Vrm degree's go up ALOT i've heard when using the g10.
seeing as the twin frozr has some kind of black plate/passive vrm cooling? i havent heard much about this, just wondering.
thx for answers.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peter2222*
> 
> so if i were to buy a 780 TI with a Twin frozr, could i put a kraken g10 on it without having to put on Vrm heatsinks?
> since the Vrm degree's go up ALOT i've heard when using the g10.
> seeing as the twin frozr has some kind of black plate/passive vrm cooling? i havent heard much about this, just wondering.
> thx for answers.


I'd imagine going with the MSI card the plate should be sufficient if it will fit with the kraken g10 on it also.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Im really interested in how the new corsair bracket will work. It looks like the actually bracket has a plate that will cover the vrms and memory. I might have to go for that when they release it. I cant say for sure why my 780 died but it could have very well been from hot vrms? but it was actually the memroy voltage regualtor that fried acording to the pics.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Im really interested in how the new corsair bracket will work. It looks like the actually bracket has a plate that will cover the vrms and memory. I might have to go for that when they release it. I cant say for sure why my 780 died but it could have very well been from hot vrms? but it was actually the memroy voltage regualtor that fried acording to the pics.


Voltage regulator is VRM(Voltage Regulator Modules) and your 780 died on you??? Wow, after the G10 was put on?


----------



## gopackersjt

That Corsair cooler looks great as long as you have a reference card. I really doubt it'll be as universal as the Kraken G10 though :/


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> That Corsair cooler looks great as long as you have a reference card. I really doubt it'll be as universal as the Kraken G10 though :/


Agreed.


----------



## PureBlackFire

R9 290 coming tomorrow.


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> R9 290 coming tomorrow.


Got your VRM and VRAM heatsinks too?

Just installed my Kraken G10 with H50. Ebay copper heatsinks for the VRAM and the Gelid kit for the VRMs. Let the testing commence!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*
> 
> Got your VRM and VRAM heatsinks too?


ordered some yea, but I'll be doing this tomorrow.


----------



## solix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*
> 
> Got your VRM and VRAM heatsinks too?
> 
> Just installed my Kraken G10 with H50. Ebay copper heatsinks for the VRAM and the Gelid kit for the VRMs. Let the testing commence!


Let us know your VRAM temps if you can read em :-D. Wondering if copper is enough...


----------



## Jeffro422

Album of my install: http://imgur.com/a/ZVBky



Don't know how to see VRAM temps. VRM1 temp stays <70c and VRM2 <60c and GPU <60 at 1150/1300.


----------



## xDeceiver

looking at this pic of the 780 ti's reference cooler


and these pictures of the hg10



i'm wondering if i can combine the g10 and my reference cooler somehow to make a cooler similar to the hg10.

I don't suppose anyone has tried this yet? Using the 780 ti reference cooler in conjuction with a g10 that is. I would be interested to see if it's possible, but i'm not sure if i am willing to buy a g10 and make some potential modifications to my reference cooler and end up with something that doesn't work and not be able to go back to my reference cooler. Only negative i can see if this works is that i wouldn't be able to use an H80i and instead would have to go with an H55 or perhaps an H75.


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solix*
> 
> Let us know your VRAM temps if you can read em :-D. Wondering if copper is enough...


R9 290/x hasn't thermal sensor on Vram. You cannot check ram temperature.

Vram on r9 has not temperature issues because of low frequencies.


----------



## simonlvschal

i have a gtx 780 and a H105 with Push/ pull and my card got no OC and it reaches 60 Degrees in Heavens benchmark after 1 hour? how can some of u get 45 with a single 140mm rad? Please help me


----------



## solix

Here we go... finally. Maybe we can assume they sorted out VRAM and VRMs accordingly :-D. I would hope with a card like this they'd put good chokes, caps, and fets on it and we'd be good to go... that and a 295X / binned hawaii refresh and its spot on for me.

http://videocardz.com/50818/his-shows-radeon-r9-290x-iceq-hybrid

I get that it is an Arctic Accelero, but what I mean is maybe they went to the trouble to make sure the components on the pcb were actually all connected underneath? Even still, sounds like nothing less than a huge chunk of copper would help. If its a re-badged Accelero that would be kind of weak.


----------



## pdasterly

The g10 needs a backplate, both my cards sag. I dont like it


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonlvschal*
> 
> i have a gtx 780 and a H105 with Push/ pull and my card got no OC and it reaches 60 Degrees in Heavens benchmark after 1 hour? how can some of u get 45 with a single 140mm rad? Please help me


Those are fantastic temps lol. Oc or not an hour of heaven and 60c ..... Wow

Others posting 45c with the same settings as you doing the same thing with the same card -pics or it never happened. Your right where you should be. You can get a bit lower but 55-65c is normal.

The larger rads do not always get you the best temps as shown when using these aio on a cpu for example. Lapping the pump surface will help as with good tim. Tim application method with a very good mount ( didn't smear the tim) case air flow and ambiant temps also play a part. Using little heatsinks on vrm/vram and copper shims also can affect the cards temps.

I've had my titan as low as 16c with a h70 but that's not common for most peeps


----------



## simonlvschal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Those are fantastic temps lol. Oc or not an hour of heaven and 60c ..... Wow
> 
> Others posting 45c with the same settings as you doing the same thing with the same card -pics or it never happened. Your right where you should be. You can get a bit lower but 55-65c is normal.
> 
> The larger rads do not always get you the best temps as shown when using these aio on a cpu for example. Lapping the pump surface will help as with good tim. Tim application method with a very good mount ( didn't smear the tim) case air flow and ambiant temps also play a part. Using little heatsinks on vrm/vram and copper shims also can affect the cards temps.
> 
> I've had my titan as low as 16c with a h70 but that's not common for most peeps


oh okay really good to know

i am running on slient mode fan and pump.

thanks for making it clear for me


----------



## killerbeee

Hello to all of you NZXT community







I am about to buy a new GPU and i have already decide what the cooler would be







As i see most of you place a custom heat-sink to Vram as the G10 fan might not be enough . I made some research and i found out that some GPU come with a stock Vram heat-sink which cover most of the card and can be used below the G10 . I would like you to tell me from what you know if there are any 780-780ti that include a stock Vrm heatsink so i wont have to place custom ones . And one last thing , from the specs matter did you achieve better stable clocks than the stock ones?


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerbeee*
> 
> Hello to all of you NZXT community
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am about to buy a new GPU and i have already decide what the cooler would be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As i see most of you place a custom heat-sink to Vram as the G10 fan might not be enough . I made some research and i found out that some GPU come with a stock Vram heat-sink which cover most of the card and can be used below the G10 . I would like you to tell me from what you know if there are any 780-780ti that include a stock Vrm heatsink so i wont have to place custom ones . And one last thing , from the specs matter did you achieve better stable clocks than the stock ones?


This site has good breakdowns of the coolers, of the ones ive looked at(and i havent looked at all of them) these are the ones with easily accessible midplates.

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/msi_gtx780_ti_twin_frozr_gaming_oc_review,10.html
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/nvidia_geforce_gtx_780_ti_review,9.html
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/inno3d_ichill_gtx_780_herculez_x3_ultra_review,9.html
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/gainward_gtx_780_phantom_glh_review,8.html


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> The g10 needs a backplate, both my cards sag. I dont like it


More than likeyly you have it to tight. The first time I installed my g10 my card sagged but then i took it off to apply heatsinks...and i have it just tight enough without the sag.....front and back plate would be nice for cooling anyways. Most of the heatinks i placed on my VRMS fell off into my case so I said FK it and left them out


----------



## DJGhosty01

You will have to excuse the dust inside, the machine is going to be cleaned asap but here is a snap shot through the window of my main rig, I am thinking of changing AIO because I noticed an oily substance coming from one of the joins of the hoses, where it goes to the rad, it may just be sealant used to seal the hose to the rad but I do not want to run the risk, and it sounds like ait is trapped in the unit but I have had the unit about 2 - 3 years so I can not grumble (Just the Antec H20 920 it used to be my CPU cooler) anyway I shall not ramble on anymore

Hello to everyone


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJGhosty01*
> 
> You will have to excuse the dust inside, the machine is going to be cleaned asap but here is a snap shot through the window of my main rig, I am thinking of changing AIO because I noticed an oily substance coming from one of the joins of the hoses, where it goes to the rad, it may just be sealant used to seal the hose to the rad but I do not want to run the risk, and it sounds like ait is trapped in the unit but I have had the unit about 2 - 3 years so I can not grumble (Just the Antec H20 920 it used to be my CPU cooler) anyway I shall not ramble on anymore
> 
> Hello to everyone
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking rig gota love the sabertooth eh? I also have the Sabertooth 990FX. You're the second person i've seen with those anti-kink coils(first being me of course







) Kinda a pain in the arse to get on though


----------



## killerbeee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> This site has good breakdowns of the coolers, of the ones ive looked at(and i havent looked at all of them) these are the ones with easily accessible midplates.
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/msi_gtx780_ti_twin_frozr_gaming_oc_review,10.html
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/nvidia_geforce_gtx_780_ti_review,9.html
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/inno3d_ichill_gtx_780_herculez_x3_ultra_review,9.html
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/gainward_gtx_780_phantom_glh_review,8.html


many thanks for info my friend very good site .
i ll consider these builds but i am i also considering the corsair hg10 .
i still wondering about base or overclocks


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Nice looking rig gota love the sabertooth eh? I also have the Sabertooth 990FX. You're the second person i've seen with those anti-kink coils(first being me of course thumb.gif ) Kinda a pain in the arse to get on though wink.gif


Cheers dude yeah the anti kink coils were more of a tedious task to put on but it was more for effect because they UV reactive now I just need a UV light kit lol and yeah I used to have a Sabertooth 990FX but it got put into another PC that went up for sale not so long ago due and I went for a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3, but the "Tuf Inside" decal would be quite hard to remove so it remains for the moment I may get a heat gun to it and get it off but I am worried about scratching the paint off the case.
I also see you have the same Antec 920 H20 as I do and the same headset as I use lol


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJGhosty01*
> 
> Cheers dude yeah the anti kink coils were more of a tedious task to put on but it was more for effect because they UV reactive now I just need a UV light kit lol and yeah I used to have a Sabertooth 990FX but it got put into another PC that went up for sale not so long ago due and I went for a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3, but the "Tuf Inside" decal would be quite hard to remove so it remains for the moment I may get a heat gun to it and get it off but I am worried about scratching the paint off the case.
> I also see you have the same Antec 920 H20 as I do and the same headset as I use lol


Heck yeah i like my antec 920, and cheap headset can't go wrong with it! Great minds think alike! BTW i did have cold cathode UV lights but when i switched my case i looked at them and they looked all corroded so i tossed them in the trash....I *wouldn't* recommend the logisys ones i didn't even have them a year before they got all corroded.


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Hello to all of you NZXT community smile.gif I am about to buy a new GPU and i have already decide what the cooler would be wink.gif As i see most of you place a custom heat-sink to Vram as the G10 fan might not be enough . I made some research and i found out that some GPU come with a stock Vram heat-sink which cover most of the card and can be used below the G10 . I would like you to tell me from what you know if there are any 780-780ti that include a stock Vrm heatsink so i wont have to place custom ones . And one last thing , from the specs matter did you achieve better stable clocks than the stock ones?


Hi dude I am new to the forum but thought I would add a bit of input from my experience here, I found that when I bought my Gigabyte R9 280X Windforce 3 and took the stock cooler off I found that the VRM already had a heat sink on it already so I thought to myself "I may as well leave that on there". but if you look at pics of others with the card you are after you maybe able to find one that you like with a VRM already heat sink in place you can usually tell if you see a retention bracket or screws coming through the card in the, like so:


I hope this helps you.......


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Heck yeah i like my antec 920, and cheap headset can't go wrong with it! Great minds think alike! BTW i did have cold cathode UV lights but when i switched my case i looked at them and they looked all corroded so i tossed them in the trash....I wouldn't recommend the logisys ones i didn't even have them a year before they got all corroded.


Yeah I had a UV cathode kit before in a older rig, but it will be difficult to mount in my current rig so I am going to go down the LED route but cheers for the advice on one manufacture to avoid, yeah the Logitech headset is cheap but still are excellent in my book my friend used mine and then bought a cheap corsair pair and he said the sound quality was no where near as clear, and yeah the Antec unit is good but I upped my CPU cooler to the corsair H110 a while back so I could use my 920 with my G10.......


----------



## ldewitt

This card has a butt load of Heatsinks....

http://www.bjorn3d.com/2013/10/sapphire-radeon-r9-280x-toxic/2/


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJGhosty01*
> 
> Yeah I had a UV cathode kit before in a older rig, but it will be difficult to mount in my current rig so I am going to go down the LED route but cheers for the advice on one manufacture to avoid, yeah the Logitech headset is cheap but still are excellent in my book my friend used mine and then bought a cheap corsair pair and he said the sound quality was no where near as clear, and yeah the Antec unit is good but I upped my CPU cooler to the corsair H110 a while back so I could use my 920 with my G10.......


Nice heck yeah, i have 2 x 9LED strips in mine to light it, i feel the LED's are brighter anyways. Also 4 out of 9 of my fans have LED's.


----------



## pdasterly

Whats best fan to replace the nxzt fan, my vrm1 are too hot


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Whats best fan to replace the nxzt fan, my vrm1 are too hot


Changing the fan would help a little but i would suggest getting some form of VRM cooling besides just the fan. Ill copy paste what i told the last person to ask about this:

I had some small heatsinks that i got off of amazon that i put on there at first. These ones to be exact:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But i would not recommend those, the temps for my card were still very high, im not sure if there was any other problems with something like fan speed or my card not being perfect but i was up to 80 DegC on VRM1 under fairly normal gaming conditions. I would say that they are too small to make a big enough difference.

Since that didnt work out i went the roundabout method of taking the reference cooler plate and separating it from the GPU heatsink as seen in this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1453555/quick-guide-for-the-disassembly-and-re-use-of-amd-290-reference-cooler-as-vrm-ram-heatsink/40_40

Here's some pictures i took of me doing the mod. http://imgur.com/a/GoWSa

Kinda involved mod that will need a drill, an oven, and maybe some aluminum foil/new thermal pads. All in all it was fairly straight forward tho. took about 30 mins for the oven portion and another half hour for the drilling.Only advice i would give is to get fresh thermal pads if you do this method. The original ones will get Metal shavings on them from the drilling which can be quite dangerous and aluminum foil just plain cant protect them from all the shavings. After attaching the cooling plate my temps are much more reasonable haven't passed 60 degC VRM1 even when running Kombuster.

The other option is the Gelid VRM heatsink for r9 290 and 290x:

http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-ICY290

I have heard others still complain about temps even after installing this kit but im sure that kit would be fine if you dont plan to touch voltages or heavily overclock.

Assuming you are getting the Kraken to overclock (which most of us are hehhhehe) i would suggest the reference plate mod. This of course is all assuming you have a reference card. if you dont have a reference card it can be a case by case basis. Most of them will have a "midplate" which is the same thing as the reference card but doesnt have the GPU cooling attached by default so it should make your life a lot easier.

As seen here: http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/msi_r9_290x_lightning_review,10.html
and here: http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/msi_gtx780_ti_twin_frozr_gaming_oc_review,10.html
Some just have VRM cooling like the ASUS model as seen here. http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/asus_r9_290_directcu_ii_oc_review,8.html

Let me know if you have any more questions. Now that i have typed this out it makes me think that maybe this should go in the original post so that others can reference it. I feel like i see someone asking about VRM cooling 2-3 times a week in the Kraken owners thread lol.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

I will add you post to the tips section. thanks for the info!


----------



## pdasterly

I have gelid kit,
My gpu and mem is stable up to 1225 gpu and 6000 mem, 150 vddc.

Gpu runs a little hot but well below 95c. Vrm1 went up to 115c. reduced gpu clock to keep vrm1 temp down


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> I have gelid kit,
> My gpu and mem is stable up to 1225 gpu and 6000 mem, 150 vddc.
> 
> Gpu runs a little hot but well below 95c. Vrm1 went up to 115c. reduced gpu clock to keep vrm1 temp down


im a little confused here, did you mean 1.5VDC? 150 is not even possible, and 6000 mem speeds doesnt sound right.

Also if your card vrm1 is running at 115c you should definitely turn down the voltages and clock down, on top of getting extra vrm cooling. 115c is not safe or sustainable for those mosfets.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> im a little confused here, did you mean 1.5VDC? 150 is not even possible, and 6000 mem speeds doesnt sound right.
> 
> Also if your card vrm1 is running at 115c you should definitely turn down the voltages and clock down, on top of getting extra vrm cooling. 115c is not safe or sustainable for those mosfets.


I turned gpu clock down already, I use trixx for my sapphire cards, vddc goes up to 200.


----------



## wapeddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> im a little confused here, did you mean 1.5VDC? 150 is not even possible, and 6000 mem speeds doesnt sound right.
> 
> Also if your card vrm1 is running at 115c you should definitely turn down the voltages and clock down, on top of getting extra vrm cooling. 115c is not safe or sustainable for those mosfets.


lol


----------



## pdasterly

Only went that high during a single test.
Settled to these settings
Gpu 1150
Mem 5450(1300)
Vddc offset 37
Power limit 50

Vrm1 stays around 80. My cards want to do more but tge vrm1 temps are holding them back.


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> I have gelid kit,
> My gpu and mem is stable up to 1225 gpu and 6000 mem, 150 vddc.
> 
> Gpu runs a little hot but well below 95c. Vrm1 went up to 115c. reduced gpu clock to keep vrm1 temp down


I think 95 C is a little high for on the GPU especially if you are running an AIO and using heat sinks from a decent manufacturer. If my memory serves me correctly the GPU temp max should only be 90 C on a R9 280X.....
Which card are you using?
If you are using a 280X by the look of your OC settings it looks that way, if so did you check to see if you required a shim? I do not mean to insult your intelligence but I thought I better cover all bases.
Also which AIO are you using?
If it is a unit with a small rad like an X40 has I recommend going for a bigger unit if your case can accommodate it maybe something like an Antec H20 920 if you can not fit an X60 or similar sized rad.
I am using an R9 280X with an Antec 920 and I do not really see anything higher than 60 C on the GPU under load playing Watch_dogs, and apparently the cooler the GPU the more efficient the VRM becomes so it produces less heat.
I have left my settings on the card at stock I have no need to overclock unless I went back to benchmarking.
Not much point in it for gaming really which is just my personal preference.
Also I would look at your ambient room temp if your room is warm for example:
Lets say on cool day your room temp is 25 C so for a warm day lets say it goes up to 35 C that 10 C is added to your overall temp, I know it sounds a bit far fetched but that is the way it is no matter what you use to cool a processor.

Well if I can help any further let me know


----------



## pdasterly

290x, corsair h75. Gpu temps are 60c and 35c with new clock settings. vrm1 84c


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> 290x, corsair h75. Gpu temps are 80c and 60c


Ok the temps are not so bad sorry I misread your first post, and the Corsair H75 should be ok handling a small OC, that is mainly down to the thickness of the rad nice to see a 140mm fan rad but they could make it thicker maybe that will be the H95 or something lol
Sorry for going off topic there, but as far as I can tell you should be ok VRM's do get warm and you are using a hot running GPU but you should be ok.
Especially with the OC you have given it but if you get any issues I would do the old hat method even though it is a long winded method of taking it back down to stock and do a stress test then move it up a level then stress test again, and repeat until you get settings and temps you are happy with.


----------



## killbom

Anyone know if the cooler is compatible with 290 PCS+ from Powercolor?


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killbom*
> 
> Anyone know if the cooler is compatible with 290 PCS+ from Powercolor?


according to the compatibility check you should be fine.....

Source

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html#


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killbom*
> 
> Anyone know if the cooler is compatible with 290 PCS+ from Powercolor?


Infact, it should be fantastic with the PCS since this card has a separate high density heatsink for the VRMs. You probably only need to change the thermal pads and thats it.


----------



## pdasterly

Cards sagging, removed bracket and only hand tight screws but cards still sag, any tips?


----------



## Biggen

Installed a Kraken G10 on my 290X. Using a Corsair H55. Not terribly impressed with the cooling but I guess it will do and I'm sure it's better than stock. Idle is around 41C while underload I'm around 78C. Never breaks 80C. Probably should have sprung for a bigger rad but I'm kinda limited on case size.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Installed a Kraken G10 on my 290X. Using a Corsair H55. Not terribly impressed with the cooling but I guess it will do and I'm sure it's better than stock. Idle is around 41C while underload I'm around 78C. Never breaks 80C. Probably should have sprung for a bigger rad but I'm kinda limited on case size.


My temps are similar, using h75


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Installed a Kraken G10 on my 290X. Using a Corsair H55. Not terribly impressed with the cooling but I guess it will do and I'm sure it's better than stock. Idle is around 41C while underload I'm around 78C. Never breaks 80C. Probably should have sprung for a bigger rad but I'm kinda limited on case size.


41c idle? It must be really hot where you are, or you're probably not using the best airflow method for your PC. I live in Texas where it's flipping hot during summer, and my GPU's still don't run that hot in SLI with the AC turned off... But i have 770's though..


----------



## Biggen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> But i have 770's though..


This. Its apples to oranges im afraid between AMD and NV right now with respect to cooling. I'm sure if I kept tinkering I could probably get my under load temps down below 70. Might work on that the next few days.


----------



## PureBlackFire

@biggen and pdasterlly: you've both likely mounted the things wrong. I used an H55 for my R9 290 (that dies 30 minutes later at stock lol) and the core temp was 44c in Valley, 47c in Metro LL. vrm temps were maxed at 55c/65c for vrm 1 and 2 respectively. tbh, that 290 didn't break 77c on the stock cooler and I have an H440 case with solid panels and tiny vents along two sides. this user on anand forum also mounted it wrong at first and had similar high temps: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2384941


----------



## pdasterly

I see, one of my gpu goes up to 80 while the other remains under 60


----------



## pdasterly

Going to buy backplate for bracket, my cards are flexing. Tried everything. I have machine laying on side so cards are vertical, unscewed 4 nuts holding bracket to card, measure and front and rear, no matter how loose I tighten nuts the card flexes and sags in the rear.
I read on another post where a person mounted the heatkiller backplate to card eith g10 with minimal modifications. Since it has been done, what backplate would you go with, choices
Heat killer or bitspower
Open to any other suggestions?
I have reference sapphire 290x.
Also if any offer additional vrm cooling would be a bonus.


----------



## xDeceiver

So since the hg10 wont be out till August, i decided i would give the g10 a try because the h55 was on sale for $45. I picked up a 780 from ebay for $370 (which I'll swap coolers with my 780 ti and sell) that had an acx cooler, which i knew has a plate that covers the vrm/vram. Only problem was that my the plate didn't match up properly so i had to cut it. I also had to cut off the four screw holes in that are around the gpu in a cross position. And i had to cut foam, on the nzxt back plate so that it fit the square on my evga backplate.

My temps are great and i couldn't be happier with them. Here's some pics:
idle temp: ~26C


load temps after 10mins of Valley benchmark 1440p ultra: ~56C


These are huge improvements as i was getting ~36C idle and ~80C on load with the reference cooler, which was also a bit noisy with fan speed @ 70%.

Keep in mind that im using a 780 ti reference with 106% power, +228 core, and +233 mem using msi afterburner and ambient temps are around 25-27C in my room. I plan on trying to add some core voltage soon.

But first i want to try to deal with this buzzing sound i'm now hearing from what sounds like my graphics card when i'm playing games or running valley benchmark. I don't think it's my h55 or any of the fans as it only starts when i'm playing a game and stops when i close the game. I've been doing a bit of research and it seems like it is called coil whine. I never had this problem before i installed the g10 so i gotta assume it's a result of me installing the g10. Has this happened to anyone else? Does anyone know what causes this? Possible fixes? I thought about maybe adding a rubber clamp around the right side of the card by the vrm, or possibly adding some heavy copper heatsinks on top the heat plate but i don't know whats causing the sound, so i cant properly address it. I think maybe some sort of vibration between the card and one of the two plates that i have attached to the card. Perhaps i only need to tighten/loosen some of the screws? Any help would be appreciated.

edit: just saw this vid on coil whine -> *link* .... my card does not sound like this at all. It sounds like something is vibrating and more of a lower pitch. I may try to straighten the heatplate out completely as some parts got a bit bentwhere i cut the plate so that the capacitor (cylinders; i believe that's what they're called) could poke through the plate.


----------



## killbom

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html#[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Infact, it should be fantastic with the PCS since this card has a separate high density heatsink for the VRMs. You probably only need to change the thermal pads and thats it.


Interesting. Then i will look into fitting both a CPU cooler and the G10 in my TJ08E


----------



## Biggen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> @biggen and pdasterlly: you've both likely mounted the things wrong. I used an H55 for my R9 290 (that dies 30 minutes later at stock lol) and the core temp was 44c in Valley, 47c in Metro LL. vrm temps were maxed at 55c/65c for vrm 1 and 2 respectively. tbh, that 290 didn't break 77c on the stock cooler and I have an H440 case with solid panels and tiny vents along two sides. this user on anand forum also mounted it wrong at first and had similar high temps: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2384941


Yeah, I think I will try to figure out what is going on. Perhaps I don't have it tightened down enough. Also using the cheap Radio Shack Silver arctic thermal compound. Might need to purchase something better.

My rad/fan placement is kinda weird too. The damn hoses aren't as long as I need them to be so I couldn't mount the rad/fan to one of the lower front intake fans on my Corsair 500R. I had to mount them behind the drive bays.

Here is a stock picture of my case from the Corsair website. I have circled where I have my H55 Rad/fan mounted: 

So it's kind tucked back into the case mounted right behind a drive bay. Now I don't have any drives mounted in the bay and I also removed all the rails so the airflow is unimpeded. However, the flow into the H55 Rad/Fan is still limited by the amount of air being move to it by that upper front case fan. So there is a "gap" though that drive bay that has to be bridged by the air that moves from the case fan to the H55 rad/fan. Perhaps that is causing problems in that it isn't moving enough air fast enough to keep up with the H55 Fan.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Yeah, I think I will try to figure out what is going on. Perhaps I don't have it tightened down enough. Also using the cheap Radio Shack Silver arctic thermal compound. Might need to purchase something better.
> 
> My rad/fan placement is kinda weird too. The damn hoses aren't as long as I need them to be so I couldn't mount the rad/fan to one of the lower front intake fans on my Corsair 500R. I had to mount them behind the drive bays.
> 
> Here is a stock picture of my case from the Corsair website. I have circled where I have my H55 Rad/fan mounted:
> 
> So it's kind tucked back into the case mounted right behind a drive bay. Now I don't have any drives mounted in the bay and I also removed all the rails so the airflow is unimpeded. However, the flow into the H55 Rad/Fan is still limited by the amount of air being move to it by that upper front case fan. So there is a "gap" though that drive bay that has to be bridged by the air that moves from the case fan to the H55 rad/fan. Perhaps that is causing problems in that it isn't moving enough air fast enough to keep up with the H55 Fan.


why can't you mount it on the rear of your case? a picture of your case would help. if yo have the stock intake fans on the front then you should at least replace those. I had a 500R from launch until a month ago.







those front fans are useless.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Going to buy backplate for bracket, my cards are flexing. Tried everything. I have machine laying on side so cards are vertical, unscewed 4 nuts holding bracket to card, measure and front and rear, no matter how loose I tighten nuts the card flexes and sags in the rear.
> I read on another post where a person mounted the heatkiller backplate to card eith g10 with minimal modifications. Since it has been done, what backplate would you go with, choices
> Heat killer or bitspower
> Open to any other suggestions?
> I have reference sapphire 290x.
> Also if any offer additional vrm cooling would be a bonus.


may as well try the mod in the link I posted. using the reference base plate keeps the card from flexing and provides the best possibly cooling for the vrm/vram.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

i had my h55 mounted in the rear exauhst. I would recommend you do this too. you can see it in my rig pic


----------



## toggLesss

anyone here have a G10 on a 660 by chance?


----------



## Yungbenny911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> anyone here have a G10 on a 660 by chance?


Hmmmm... Why would you need one on a 660? My 660's had the lowest temps on all the GPU's i've ever used, and i don't think they can be over-volted past 1.212mv


----------



## Biggen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> why can't you mount it on the rear of your case? a picture of your case would help. if yo have the stock intake fans on the front then you should at least replace those. I had a 500R from launch until a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those front fans are useless.


I'm using an open loop to cool my CPU and those fans/rad is mounted in the top portion of the cast. However, the hoses coming out of the rad run right in front of the rear top exhaust fan I'm using. There is barely room with the exhaust fan up there now. No way I can fit the rad in that space too I'm afraid. I guess I could mount the fan on the outside of the case.

Edit: Well I tore it all back down and reapplied the paste and reseated the pump. That seems to have fixed it. Hovering in the mid 50's under Valley benchmark. I made sure this time to tighten it more. I guess I didnt have it tight enough the first time. Basically I tightened it till the PCB bowed and then backed it off a hair.


----------



## PureBlackFire




----------



## josephimports

Asus reference 290
NZXT Kraken G10
Zalman CNPS20LQ
Gelid VRM kit
Aluminum ram heatsink set
Fans on silent.


----------



## toggLesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yungbenny911*
> 
> Hmmmm... Why would you need one on a 660? My 660's had the lowest temps on all the GPU's i've ever used, and i don't think they can be over-volted past 1.212mv


in all honesty, it would be more of a visual thing as opposed to a performance issue..
i have amazing temps on my 660.

usually around 27-30 degrees. it MIGHT bump up to a 39-40 in a demanding game.

but yeah for the most part, it would be strictly for looks.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> i had my h55 mounted in the rear exauhst. I would recommend you do this too. you can see it in my rig pic


Same with mine, Can also see mine in my rig pictures.


----------



## xDeceiver

Well... **** me. I tried putting the acx cooler on my card and it still makes a buzzing noise. I tried taking the backplate off and still the noise is there. I also tried taking the vrm/vram plate off. It seems like i either ****ed something up when installing the g10, or my card was always ****ed up but the reference cooler masked the noise.

Since i just sold the reference cooler, and i doubt it was actually masking the noise, the only thing else i can think of is to try to contain the noise in my case as much as possible and hope the noise isn't a sign of something failing (which would be fantastic as installing the g10 voided my warranty). I somehow doubt that i'm the only one that has had this problem.

On the bright side, i was able to get my card up past 1300Mhz wit the the boost clock, and temps were only ~60C. never again. lesson learned. **** me.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephimports*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice but it looks like ur card is sagging. Im having same problem
> 
> 
> Asus reference 290
> NZXT Kraken G10
> Zalman CNPS20LQ
> Gelid VRM kit
> Aluminum ram heatsink set
> Fans on silent.


Nice but it looks like your card is sagging


----------



## maynard14

finally after installing gelid vrm heatsinks my r9 290 unlock to 290x can now be oc properly using stock volts i manage to oc it to 1060 core and memory to 1300, vrm1 max load is 60c and vrm 2 55c

now i got this score



http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8413998

heres my set up:


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> finally after installing gelid vrm heatsinks my r9 290 unlock to 290x can now be oc properly using stock volts i manage to oc it to 1060 core and memory to 1300, vrm1 max load is 60c and vrm 2 55c
> 
> heres my set up:


Great looking setup.







I'm seeing similar results with my newly installed G10.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Nice but it looks like your card is sagging


It doesn't sag very much at all. About as much as the original.


----------



## pdasterly

Bet if you measure you will find your card sagging. Mine is sagging a few mm but it bothers me so much. Waiting for my backplates to hopefully straighten things out. Is that corsair 540, if so I have same case. You should move radiator up one slot and have them intake. I know it blows hot air over card but when I did back to back testing my temps dropped 10c + gpu and vrm


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Bet if you measure you will find your card sagging. Mine is sagging a few mm but it bothers me so much. Waiting for my backplates to hopefully straighten things out. Is that corsair 540, if so I have same case. You should move radiator up one slot and have them intake. I know it blows hot air over card but when I did back to back testing my temps dropped 10c + gpu and vrm




Ill watch for any additional sagging. Currently the radiator is not installed as this card will be moved to a different rig. I added fans to the VRM's and saw a nice drop in VRM temps plus the core is running a bit cooler.










This is after 3 loops of Valley running stock.


OC 1100 / +62mv


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephimports*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill watch for any additional sagging. Currently the radiator is not installed as this card will be moved to a different rig. I added fans to the VRM's and saw a nice drop in VRM temps plus the core is running a bit cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is after 3 loops of Valley running stock.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OC 1100 / +62mv


Great VRM temps but i see that you have a dedicated VRM heatsink. Looks like that is helping excellent. gojtpackers is gona whip me up one in his dads shop and well see how our VRM temps get.(both have Gigabyte gtx 770's) But awesome temps on your 290.


----------



## GoldenTiger

I have an evga gtx 780 FTW, which has a unisink. Is there any way to mount the g10 without cutting the unisink? If I take it off, does thermal tape work well enough for vrm heatsinks and if so what do I need to get for tape? Thanks guys. From what I've read I should expect a higher overclock probably given my temps are hitting max of about 74c after going to 1.162v and 1215c/6830m, if I push volts higher it starts artifacting from heat, even though it can do much higher clocks without locking up. My GPU is a B1 stepping .

Hoping the bracket would work with a gtx 880 too when the time comes if we're lucky







.

EDIT: One last question, I'm deciding between the Corsair H55, H90, or Zalman LQ310 which has a really good sale going ($30 after rebate)... is there any substantial difference in temperatures for this usage between these, assuming I were to go 1.212v and push the clocks up, or are we (I think) just talking between 40 and 45c kind of thing?


----------



## pdasterly

H55 is 120mm, just add 2nd static fan, h90 is 140mm, cant speak on zalman. Get whatever fits your case


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> H55 is 120mm, just add 2nd static fan, h90 is 140mm, cant speak on zalman. Get whatever fits your case


Thanks, I did some research and think I'll be happy with the Zalman with even 1 fan, may add a second just to cool better if I need to. As far as the unisink goes on my 780 FTW, I assume I can just remove that and use VRM heatsinks instead, so as not to have to modify anything on the card?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> H55 is 120mm, just add 2nd static fan, h90 is 140mm, cant speak on zalman. Get whatever fits your case


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Thanks, I did some research and think I'll be happy with the Zalman with even 1 fan, may add a second just to cool better if I need to. As far as the unisink goes on my 780 FTW, I assume I can just remove that and use VRM heatsinks instead, so as not to have to modify anything on the card?


Remember not only are you going to need another fan you will need screws also....unless you were to only use 2 screws on each fan since the H55 only comes with screws for one fan. I ran into this issue with my H55 didn't think about the screw situation ordered a fan then realized i have to attach the fans with something! Hope this adds to this convo.

As for removing the unisink, i'd see if the kraken fits first or maybe even post a picture here and we can help determain if it will fit. Otherwise if it doesn't than yeah i'd advise just putting VRM heatinks on.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Remember not only are you going to need another fan you will need screws also....unless you were to only use 2 screws on each fan since the H55 only comes with screws for one fan. I ran into this issue with my H55 didn't think about the screw situation ordered a fan then realized i have to attach the fans with something! Hope this adds to this convo.
> 
> As for removing the unisink, i'd see if the kraken fits first or maybe even post a picture here and we can help determain if it will fit. Otherwise if it doesn't than yeah i'd advise just putting VRM heatinks on.


Thanks to you too! Ended up grabbing the Corsair H75 w/ a fan grill and the white Kraken G10, I'll see how it does/doesn't fit. I'm going to grab some self-adhesive small light aluminum heatsinks just in case off of amazon since they're pretty inexpensive and might come in handy in the future. I'll update with how it goes once it all comes in (looking like Friday assuming shoprunner 2-day ships today, and I have amazon prime for the sinks).


----------



## pdasterly

H75 comes with two fans, corsair sents me a bag of screws free, next day mail too


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

the unisink is the same for me on my gtx 780 sc and it will have to be removed, unless you want to mod it. unfrotunatly there are 4 little tabes around the gpu socket that get in the way on the unisink so the watter cooler does not sit flush on the gpu die. I guess you could prob use a copper shim if you really wanted to keep the unsink on.


----------



## w35t

Hi all, I'm getting one of these for a 290x I have and I have a question, I read somewhere that though it's not in the instructions, a copper shim should be used to mount the aio cooler to the gpu. Is this true? If so, where could I buy one? Would you then apply thermal paste to both sides I assume?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w35t*
> 
> Hi all, I'm getting one of these for a 290x I have and I have a question, I read somewhere that though it's not in the instructions, a copper shim should be used to mount the aio cooler to the gpu. Is this true? If so, where could I buy one? Would you then apply thermal paste to both sides I assume?


Hi, most setups do not require a copper shim. I think the only ones are maybe 7970s? but if you do need one then yes you do need tim on both sides.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> the unisink is the same for me on my gtx 780 sc and it will have to be removed, unless you want to mod it. unfrotunatly there are 4 little tabes around the gpu socket that get in the way on the unisink so the watter cooler does not sit flush on the gpu die. I guess you could prob use a copper shim if you really wanted to keep the unsink on.


Yeah, I looked at it earlier today when I was swapping my thermal paste for MX-4 hoping to improve temps (and it did help some) and it does look like it has the same unisink. I have no need or want to keep it on so I'll just take it off and put it aside for now when I'm digging into this







. I don't want to damage the card or its stock accessories in any way so







. I appreciate your response.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> H75 comes with two fans, corsair sents me a bag of screws free, next day mail too


Yep, did some research on that and it comes with two pretty nice fans, that get nice and quiet when lowered in speed but still perform really well. Just did a final measurement set (after I already had ordered everything, LOL oops!) and it looks like everything will fit perfectly even with both fans inside of my case (I was thinking of putting one on the outside with a grill originally if space was an issue, but it will fit fine either way so I'll toss it all inside I think) as well as the vertical space needed. Can't wait! Debating getting a different 92mm fan though since I've heard the NZXT stock one isn't so good...


----------



## pdasterly

I was recommended zalman zf2, ordered two from newegg. $15 each


----------



## w35t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Hi, most setups do not require a copper shim. I think the only ones are maybe 7970s? but if you do need one then yes you do need tim on both sides.


Thanks for your reply. I went ahead and bought a couple of em anyway just in case, though I don't really know what to look for to determine if they're necessary or not, I guess a gap? I haven't installed any aftermarket coolers before, hell I've never even seated an air cooler to a cpu before, I figure it's about time.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w35t*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I went ahead and bought a couple of em anyway just in case, though I don't really know what to look for to determine if they're necessary or not, I guess a gap? I haven't installed any aftermarket coolers before, hell I've never even seated an air cooler to a cpu before, I figure it's about time.


Yep, you use a shim to bridge a gap make contact if the actual GPU and heatsink material surfaces aren't mating properly


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Yeah, I looked at it earlier today when I was swapping my thermal paste for MX-4 hoping to improve temps (and it did help some) and it does look like it has the same unisink. I have no need or want to keep it on so I'll just take it off and put it aside for now when I'm digging into this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't want to damage the card or its stock accessories in any way so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I appreciate your response.
> Yep, did some research on that and it comes with two pretty nice fans, that get nice and quiet when lowered in speed but still perform really well. Just did a final measurement set (after I already had ordered everything, LOL oops!) and it looks like everything will fit perfectly even with both fans inside of my case (I was thinking of putting one on the outside with a grill originally if space was an issue, but it will fit fine either way so I'll toss it all inside I think) as well as the vertical space needed. Can't wait! Debating getting a different 92mm fan though since I've heard the NZXT stock one isn't so good...


yeah I almost modded mine (unisink) but im sure glad i didnt... My 780 went poof about a week ago. My replacment is on the way to me as we speak. If I would have modded it I would have been sol as far as RMA is concerned.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> H75 comes with two fans, corsair sents me a bag of screws free, next day mail too


Man would be cool if you could take 4 of your extra screws put them in an envelope and mail them to grand rapids Michigan














Although wonder if there the same for the H55...


----------



## pdasterly

Pm me, send self address envelope. No problem


----------



## pdasterly

Call corsair customer service, they sent mine next day. They spent more in packaging and postage lol


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Call corsair customer service, they sent mine next day. They spent more in packaging and postage lol


What would i say though?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> What would i say though?


I just told them I lost them when I reconfiged system, but I do have a h90 and two h75s, shouldn't be an issue though. If they want some cash, just let me know and Ill send them out tomorrow


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> yeah I almost modded mine (unisink) but im sure glad i didnt... My 780 went poof about a week ago. My replacment is on the way to me as we speak. If I would have modded it I would have been sol as far as RMA is concerned.


Nice... I ended up deciding to upgrade to a 780 Ti, so I grabbed a good deal on the MSI Gaming 780ti and it's due in tomorrow... I didn't want to mod the unisink even if I had been keeping the evga 780, like you said... you'd have been SOL on an RMA at that point in exchange for not having spent five or ten bucks on some extra mini-sinks and applying them. I got a set of eight copper ramsinks that are 0.5x0.5 inches and 0.25" tall, looks like they should fit under the g10 from what I could tell (they arrived along with my Corsair H75 and NZXT G10 bracket this afternoon)... should be enough to cover the MSI Gaming 780ti VRM's presumably. I'll have to grab my 780 ftw box out of the closet to sell it now







.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Nice... I ended up deciding to upgrade to a 780 Ti, so I grabbed a good deal on the MSI Gaming 780ti and it's due in tomorrow... I didn't want to mod the unisink even if I had been keeping the evga 780, like you said... you'd have been SOL on an RMA at that point in exchange for not having spent five or ten bucks on some extra mini-sinks and applying them. I got a set of eight copper ramsinks that are 0.5x0.5 inches and 0.25" tall, looks like they should fit under the g10 from what I could tell (they arrived along with my Corsair H75 and NZXT G10 bracket this afternoon)... should be enough to cover the MSI Gaming 780ti VRM's presumably. I'll have to grab my 780 ftw box out of the closet to sell it now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Can't tell or not but you know there are VRAM and VRMS. You will need to cover both sets, on both sides of the card. So in turn 16 for the VRAM and just under 16 if not less on the VRMS. As for the copper heatsinks you've purchased those will do that's the dementions of the ones I'm using on my card.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Can't tell or not but you know there are VRAM and VRMS. You will need to cover both sets, on both sides of the card. So in turn 16 for the VRAM and just under 16 if not less on the VRMS. As for the copper heatsinks you've purchased those will do that's the dementions of the ones I'm using on my card.


Thanks for the size confirmation but gddr5 runs fairly cool so it shouldn't need sinks. As far as the vrm I should be fine covering just the mosfets as far as I've ever known.... Is there some other part you mean to cover? There are no ram chips or vrm components on the 780ti gaming backside







.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

I believe the msi gamming has a unisink and it will work with the kraken


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Thanks for the size confirmation but gddr5 runs fairly cool so it shouldn't need sinks. As far as the vrm I should be fine covering just the mosfets as far as I've ever known.... Is there some other part you mean to cover? There are no ram chips or vrm components on the 780ti gaming backside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


The reason I say both sides is to dissipate the heat better to draw the heat away from the source. As for the vram I guess you could leave them off I know that most of the rest of us put them on for pre action, thought I'd throw my 2 cents in


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

oh and guys if you havnt noticed this thread is official now







thanks to twerk for making it offical. And thanks to all you guys that have helped from the beginning. idewitt and others


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Man would be cool if you could take 4 of your extra screws put them in an envelope and mail them to grand rapids Michigan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although wonder if there the same for the H55...


you need #6-32 x 1.25" screws to mount a fan to the H55. just go to your local hardware store and get 4 of them. They were <$2 for me.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> you need #6-32 x 1.25" screws to mount a fan to the H55. just go to your local hardware store and get 4 of them. They were <$2 for me.


Ah alright yeah ill wait until corsair gets back to me and if they want more than $2 then ill just hit the local hardware store up! So the #6-32 x 1.25'' screws are the right thread and everything??


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Ah alright yeah ill wait until corsair gets back to me and if they want more than $2 then ill just hit the local hardware store up! So the #6-32 x 1.25'' screws are the right thread and everything??


Yep, the #6-32 refers to the sizing of the thread etc., and obviously the 1.25" is the length







.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Yep, the #6-32 refers to the sizing of the thread etc., and obviously the 1.25" is the length
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Helllll yeah, ill be doing that if corsair doesn't do it for free! Thanks for the help guys!!


----------



## w35t

Any of you guys have any thoughts on if it would be worth it to use a G10 and an H50 on a 780 Lightning? The air cooler on the Lightning is great but if I could get at least a 10 deg c drop I would do it.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w35t*
> 
> Any of you guys have any thoughts on if it would be worth it to use a G10 and an H50 on a 780 Lightning? The air cooler on the Lightning is great but if I could get at least a 10 deg c drop I would do it.


I'll let you know how the G10+H75 works for me on my 780 FTW, I decided with some new Maxwell news not to accept delivery of the 780 ti I ordered and got I t approved for refusal with newegg. I'll give you some temperature results later on today... no question though it would be more than 10-15c lower of a temperature for you even with an H50/H55.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

so golden tiger may i ask with out derailing this thread to much, what new news did you find out about maxwell that changed your mind?


----------



## ldewitt

Alright guys my copper heatsinks have been falling off of my VRMS(the ones on the top of the card facing down) i dont know if i got crappy thermal tape or what but i wan't to know of a NON-Permanent way of attaching these heatsinks so that they stay in place until i want to remove them.


----------



## gopackersjt

I just removed all of my heatsinks since I'm getting ready to sell my 770. All you need to do it give them a little twist and they pop off. One of my copper VRM ones did fall off though....


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

so what are you thinking of getting to replace the 770?


----------



## gopackersjt

I'm looking into an r9 290. They're cheap right now, and I can resell my 770 to cover it. I switched to a 5760 x1080p setup, and my 770 just can't handle it. A 290 should give me a good enough bump to at least make games stay above 30 fps.


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> I'm looking into an r9 290. They're cheap right now, and I can resell my 770 to cover it. I switched to a 5760 x1080p setup, and my 770 just can't handle it. A 290 should give me a good enough bump to at least make games stay above 30 fps.


Hello my friend, not to stray too far off topic of this thread but in reality I do not think a single card could handle the resolution your using in games too well, (well the latest demanding games anyway), not many games even support that high a resolution to be fair.
So in short you are going to need a multiple GPU setup to see any playable difference in gaming terms, even if you lowered the quality settings, mainly due to the textures size which is stored in memory and also processing the high resolution pixels, a single 290 will struggle......

I hope this answers your question

Sorry had to edit: I just saw your system specs even with the nice OC on your CPU, your CPU will also be a performance impact on the GPU due to the lack of PCI-E lanes and bandwidth available between the CPU and GPU..........


----------



## josephimports

Installed a G10 on a second 290. Nearly identical results as the first card. This setup is using a Corsair H70, copper ram sinks, and Gelid VRM kit. Case is a HAF XB.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJGhosty01*
> 
> Hello my friend, not to stray too far off topic of this thread but in reality I do not think a single card could handle the resolution your using in games too well, (well the latest demanding games anyway), not many games even support that high a resolution to be fair.
> So in short you are going to need a multiple GPU setup to see any playable difference in gaming terms, even if you lowered the quality settings, mainly due to the textures size which is stored in memory and also processing the high resolution pixels, a single 290 will struggle......
> 
> I hope this answers your question
> 
> Sorry had to edit: I just saw your system specs even with the nice OC on your CPU, your CPU will also be a performance impact on the GPU due to the lack of PCI-E lanes and bandwidth available between the CPU and GPU..........


My 770 actually handles Bf3/4 with everything maxed out (AA set to the lower setting though) and it managed around 30-45 fps, but big explosions caused nasty drops. You need to remember that I had my G10 on it allowing me OC a lot, that bridged the gap. I'll have the G10 on my future 290, which already beats the 770 by about 15% more power, plus whatever I get out of it by OC'ing. Plus I hate multi-gpu setups, I don't want to depend on driver updates to let me play games. I had SLI'ed 550 ti's and they were great with supported games but sucked without SLI support.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> My 770 actually handles Bf3/4 with everything maxed out (AA set to the lower setting though) and it managed around 30-45 fps, but big explosions caused nasty drops. You need to remember that I had my G10 on it allowing me OC a lot, that bridged the gap. I'll have the G10 on my future 290, which already beats the 770 by about 15% more power, plus whatever I get out of it by OC'ing. Plus I hate multi-gpu setups, I don't want to depend on driver updates to let me play games. I had SLI'ed 550 ti's and they were great with supported games but sucked without SLI support.


290x is a whole another animal compared to 550 and even the 770.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> 290x is a whole another animal compared to 550 and even the 770.


My point exactly lol


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> My point exactly lol


Hope you don't plan to oc far with the g10 bracket. The vrm1 temps are going to be limiting factor.


----------



## gopackersjt

Won't be an issue for me!









I'm one of the guys who helped make this thread and contributed a crap ton on figuring out what to do about VRM cooling, so I know what I'm getting into lol. My dad has a machine shop and I'll be making a custom heat sink specifically for the VRM's!

You'll see me in this thread basically figuring all of the VRM cooling stuff out:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1468486/nzxt-kraken-g10-and-gigabyte-770-gtx-4gb-will-it-fit


----------



## pdasterly

What happened with the 290?


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> My 770 actually handles Bf3/4 with everything maxed out (AA set to the lower setting though) and it managed around 30-45 fps, but big explosions caused nasty drops. You need to remember that I had my G10 on it allowing me OC a lot, that bridged the gap. I'll have the G10 on my future 290, which already beats the 770 by about 15% more power, plus whatever I get out of it by OC'ing. Plus I hate multi-gpu setups, I don't want to depend on driver updates to let me play games. I had SLI'ed 550 ti's and they were great with supported games but sucked without SLI support.


Well decreasing the AA is a good idea but here is a general idea of what you will be looking at:

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/11/27/battlefield-4-performance-analysis/5

even though this is running on older drivers and stock cooling and no OC, but keeping these newer cards cooler improves performance anyway, so hopefully it should be ok, well I hope it all works out for you......


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJGhosty01*
> 
> Sorry had to edit: I just saw your system specs even with the nice OC on your CPU, your CPU will also be a performance impact on the GPU due to the lack of PCI-E lanes and bandwidth available between the CPU and GPU..........


Hm, I thought the conventional wisdom was that PCI-E 3.0 x8 (equivalent to PCI-E 2.0 x16) was plenty even for an oc'd 780 Ti in the present day? I know I saw 16x PCI-E 2.0 vs 3.0 and the effect on a GTX 690 which isn't too far off in power, was essentially nothing (and usually nothing) in the article.

I got my G10+H75 set up yesterday but it's sitting as the rear exhaust right behind my CPU's coolermaster hyper 212+, so the temperatures don't seem as low as I'd hoped for on the GPU (780 ftw 1.2v ~60-62 at average max load in hour+ gaming sessions depending on clocks). Debating slapping an H55 or another H75 on my CPU and having it exhaust out the top of the case... thoughts? I figure that'll cool my CPU nicely, and will allow me to get lower temperatures on the GPU since its radiator won't be sucking in the exhaust air from my CPU's heatsink.

Also couldn't get the copper sinks I got to stay on the MOSFETs, not enough surface area for them to grip to so they'd fall off just from moving the card abruptly enough to put it in the case, and came right off if I brushed them with a finger. So I'm running without them, the back of the card doesn't seem to be incredibly warmer than the GPU area if I touch it immediately after shutting down the system, so I figure I'm probably alright... my FTW card has an 8+2 phase vrm and the fan sits right over them from the bracket. I do think I'll probably order more sinks to put on the VRAM for whatever card I own after this though







since those would fit perfectly then and presumably help their OC slightly.


----------



## pdasterly

My heatkiller backplates came in today, I also bought some fujipoly ultra(expensive).
The fujipoly is for the vrm1 on the backside of the card, my question is, should I cut a long strip of fujipoly or should I cut up and place a small amount on each individual vrm1?


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Hm, I thought the conventional wisdom was that PCI-E 3.0 x8 (equivalent to PCI-E 2.0 x16) was plenty even for an oc'd 780 Ti in the present day? I know I saw 16x PCI-E 2.0 vs 3.0 and the effect on a GTX 690 which isn't too far off in power, was essentially nothing (and usually nothing) in the article.


Yes there is little difference in the standard of PCI-E 3.0 and 2.0 but what I am saying is, there are more PCI express lanes available on newer CPU's depending on which CPU is used, so it is in way a better idea if more than one graphics card is used, there is not much of on issue on dual GPU cards due to both GPUs sharing the same set of PCI-E Lanes in each direction.
So if you have multiple cards a better rated CPU would have more bandwidth to communicate between the itself and the PCI-E bus due to having the extra lanes.......my point is not so much about PCI-E 2.0 and 3.0 you could choose either standard but the extra lanes will help when more than one graphics card is used.....


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> My heatkiller backplates came in today, I also bought some fujipoly ultra(expensive).
> The fujipoly is for the vrm1 on the backside of the card, my question is, should I cut a long strip of fujipoly or should I cut up and place a small amount on each individual vrm1?
> 
> [*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2055603/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> [*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2055604/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


I would use a long strip, I tried sticking mini-sinks onto my VRM mosfets that came with tiny thermal tape on them and they wouldn't stay on, due to the small surface area. They would stick to larger surfaces perfectly though. Next time I will be keeping some thermal pad or tape on hand...







.

May I ask where you bought yours?


----------



## pdasterly

been working all day, well not working but running around trying to find mini machine bolts unsuccessfully. Heres what Ive got so far

fujipoly extreme on vrm1 on back of card

fujipoly extreme on vrm2 on back of card

drilled larger holes in gelid heatsink 1/8 drill bit

Popping the cap off makes install so much easier



Heatkiller backplate, had to enlarge 4 screw holes for gpu mount, 5/32 drill bit


Had to buy nuts for the heatkiller screws, forgot size m3 maybe, also bought a bunch of nylon washers, m3 again but dont hold me to that.

card is now flat, no sagging or bending


Mounted in case


took a little longer to put together 2nd card, I stripped one of the nzxt gpu mount screws, lucky when i bought they had to send new(longer screws). I just used one of the old screws, the ones that were too short for the 290x. The short screws work fine.


All together now, let the testing commence


Rog front base just gave me huge headache, took about an hour to figure out. Now I have reason to install windows 8.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> Won't be an issue for me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm one of the guys who helped make this thread and contributed a crap ton on figuring out what to do about VRM cooling, so I know what I'm getting into lol. My dad has a machine shop and I'll be making a custom heat sink specifically for the VRM's!
> 
> You'll see me in this thread basically figuring all of the VRM cooling stuff out:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1468486/nzxt-kraken-g10-and-gigabyte-770-gtx-4gb-will-it-fit


+1 I think he'll be just fine with a custom heatsink he will make. I'm gona get the measurements for mine today and pm them to you.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Buncha questions!

For the thermal tape on the VRM's, was I supposed to be applying a good amount of pressure to get them to stay on so they'd cure or something? I just tried placing them on and then pressing down lightly for about a second. I noticed when taking them off after they stuck to my fingers just fine but when on the VRM's they were sliding and even after sitting for a couple of minutes would be knocked right off if I brushed them in the slightest. I'm guessing I was doing it wrong







, or the tape that came on them was really bad?

Also can someone suggest a good quality adhesive thermal tape that is later removable (they're all designed to be though I believe)? I see this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20766/thr-220/ and this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10223/thr-75/ but they don't seem like they're exactly what I'd want. I can't use thermal pads like the Fujipoly since there's no way to hold it down with the sinks since they have no adhesive.

Finally, in a moderately air-conditioned room, with my case layout setup so that the HSF for the CPU blows air into the radiator's area that it's taking in from as the rear exhaust of my case (Corsair H75 in a Fractal Define R3) along with a top exhaust fan pair (the top one towards the rear is barely pulling any air, wondering if I should simply take it out?), and the SP120L fans @ 1400rpm, I'm seeing temperatures that seem like they're way too high.

At 1.175v and 1202mhz core/7200mhz mem, I'm getting 62c max 60c average load, after an hour+ of playing Battlefield 4 with that setup on my GTX 780. My idle temp is ~26-27c. This seems like it's way higher than it should be too me, as I said above...? That's with the fans @ 1400rpm, if I up them to an audible 1650-1700 rpm the max and average load goes down by about 4c each.


----------



## pdasterly

Im using SEKISUI #5760, works good so far, and cheap $3


----------



## Shine6

Hi Guys,

My G10 setup in a Corsair 760T case:



I have been using:

- reference R9 290 clocked at 1Ghz
- Corsair H75
- Modified gelid VRM kit
- be quiet 92mm PWM fan

The heatsink cooling is made with
- 2 Be quiet 120mm fan
-1 be quiet 140mm fan

Be quiet fans are way less noisy than corsair fans, but probably a bit less efficient too.

With all fans atr top speed, after 15 mn of valley I get:
GPU max = 57°C
VRM 1 max = 69°C
VRM 2 max = 68°C


----------



## GGexe

Hi there,

Im pretty sure that im not in the right place, but i was wondering if my gtx680 would fit

http://www.zotacusa.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/z/t/zt-60102-10p_image3.jpg

i went on the website but its not part of the compatibility list


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GGexe*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> Im pretty sure that im not in the right place, but i was wondering if my gtx680 would fit
> 
> http://www.zotacusa.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/z/t/zt-60102-10p_image3.jpg
> 
> i went on the website but its not part of the compatibility list


I have just checked on the NZXT Web-site and you should be ok it is listed as a "Zotac Geforce GTX 680 2GB"


----------



## Hazaro

VRM1 is way too hot with the GELID. I have a side fan blowing on it, if it wasn't there it would be another 6C+ hotter and is absurd right now. Core is good and VRM2 is fine now with side fan (-15C).
The 92mm fan sits right on top of VRM1 GELID cooling and is almost entirely dead air. I think I need to mount some kind of airflow redirect or a 80mm and do the same thing.

Maybe some kind of fan that is good at throwing air directly back and not letting it whisk around the sides?
























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Only went that high during a single test.
> Settled to these settings
> Gpu 1150
> Mem 5450(1300)
> Vddc offset 37
> Power limit 50
> 
> Vrm1 stays around 80. My cards want to do more but tge vrm1 temps are holding them back.


Similar results here. 70C stock for VRM1, 80C for 1150 and +50mV in Unigine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Installed a Kraken G10 on my 290X. Using a Corsair H55. Not terribly impressed with the cooling but I guess it will do and I'm sure it's better than stock. Idle is around 41C while underload I'm around 78C. Never breaks 80C. Probably should have sprung for a bigger rad but I'm kinda limited on case size.


That does seem like a bad mount unless you are running a lot of volts into it., fan/case setup?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Thanks to you too! *Ended up grabbing the Corsair H75 w/ a fan grill and the white Kraken G10*, I'll see how it does/doesn't fit. I'm going to grab some self-adhesive small light aluminum heatsinks just in case off of amazon since they're pretty inexpensive and might come in handy in the future. I'll update with how it goes once it all comes in (looking like Friday assuming shoprunner 2-day ships today, and I have amazon prime for the sinks).


We are like weird internet cooler brothers or something. Way back on 8800GT and Accelero S1 we posted at the same time, now we both have H75 and White G10's. Crazy world.
Can't really help ya with your other questions.


----------



## GGexe

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJGhosty01*
> 
> I have just checked on the NZXT Web-site and you should be ok it is listed as a "Zotac Geforce GTX 680 2GB"


Does the AMP version would work?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shine6*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> My G10 setup in a Corsair 760T case:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been using:
> 
> - reference R9 290 clocked at 1Ghz
> - Corsair H75
> - Modified gelid VRM kit
> - be quiet 92mm PWM fan
> 
> The heatsink cooling is made with
> - 2 Be quiet 120mm fan
> -1 be quiet 140mm fan
> 
> Be quiet fans are way less noisy than corsair fans, but probably a bit less efficient too.
> 
> With all fans atr top speed, after 15 mn of valley I get:
> GPU max = 57°C
> VRM 1 max = 69°C
> VRM 2 max = 68°C


Whats between the front of your case and your GPU radiator? Another fan?


----------



## Shine6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Whats between the front of your case and your GPU radiator? Another fan?


No, it is a spacer.

I did this because the H75 hose is not long enough to allow fixing the radiator on the front panel. So I use a 2 cm spacer between the front panel and the radiator right fan.

Plus a 140mm fan on the front panel right side.

I guess I get a pretty good airflow with this setup


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazaro*
> 
> We are like weird internet cooler brothers or something. Way back on 8800GT and Accelero S1 we posted at the same time, now we both have H75 and White G10's. Crazy world.
> Can't really help ya with your other questions.


Haha, that is hilarious, and good memory indeed







.

Thinking of trying to make sure my G10 is evenly mounted, but I think that the temp issue I have is probably from having the CPU heatsink exhausting straight into the H75. I'll probably grab another H75 to cool the CPU soon.


----------



## Ramzinho

i wonder when an artisan will come up with a functional water block for the vrms


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shine6*
> 
> No, it is a spacer.
> 
> I did this because the H75 hose is not long enough to allow fixing the radiator on the front panel. So I use a 2 cm spacer between the front panel and the radiator right fan.
> 
> Plus a 140mm fan on the front panel right side.
> 
> I guess I get a pretty good airflow with this setup


I was just wondering because I want my GPU radiator there also but ran into the same problem with not having enough hose to do so i was shy by 20mm at least.


----------



## Shine6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I was just wondering because I want my GPU radiator there also but ran into the same problem with not having enough hose to do so i was shy by 20mm at least.


Yes this is an issue with many cases. All you need is a spacer, and longer screws fitting the radiator . I think i used this one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10660/scr-158/6-32_x_25_Radiator_Mount_Screws_-_4-Pack_55mm_FansCoolIt_Corsair_XSPC.html?tl=g55c479s1254

I can check if you want.


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GGexe*
> 
> Does the AMP version would work?


Sorry I thought you meant a reference design GTX 680 but I am afraid it does not look like the AMP edition is compatible due to it being a non reference design.......


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJGhosty01*
> 
> Sorry I thought you meant a reference design GTX 680 but I am afraid it does not look like the AMP edition is compatible due to it being a non reference design.......


Just because it's non-reference doesn't mean it won't work. As long as the screw holes are the same as reference it'll still work just fine.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Hey all, Sorry to ask again but I want to tell if I should try a remount. I have my h75 on my gtx 780 @1202 and after playing bf4 for an hour my temps are sitting at 60 max stable, with only 1.175v. I do have my oc'd 2600k blowing it's air from a cm 212+ into the radiator though and the radiator fans are sp120l at 1450rpm push pull. Thoughts? I feel like it's warmer than it should be, with idle at 26c.


----------



## simonlvschal

ye u need a AIO for your Cpu to.. its just heating the Graphics card up i just got a H90 in rear with push/pull and i get 47 degrees top atm


----------



## GoldenTiger

Thanks, I was guessing it was probably just the heat from the cpu being added in causing the problem, but wanted to make sure that sounded right before grabbing something for the cpu too







.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Hey all, Sorry to ask again but I want to tell if I should try a remount. I have my h75 on my gtx 780 @1202 and after playing bf4 for an hour my temps are sitting at 60 max stable, with only 1.175v. I do have my oc'd 2600k blowing it's air from a cm 212+ into the radiator though and the radiator fans are sp120l at 1450rpm push pull. Thoughts? I feel like it's warmer than it should be, with idle at 26c.


I would deffinitly believe your cm 212 is excessively pushing your cpu's heat in your radiator. CPUs produce more heat than gpu's and as someone else mentioned you should get another cooler(liquid) for your CPU as well.

26c idle is good though. Its when your CPU heats up that you are getting higher temps while gaming.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GGexe*
> 
> Does the AMP version would work?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJGhosty01*
> 
> Sorry I thought you meant a reference design GTX 680 but I am afraid it does not look like the AMP edition is compatible due to it being a non reference design.......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> Just because it's non-reference doesn't mean it won't work. As long as the screw holes are the same as reference it'll still work just fine.


Agree with gopackersjt,

Mine, gopackersjt, and MackAttack's Non-Refernece GTX 770's worked and ours isn't on that list. Its all a matter of where the screw holes line up as gopackersjt stated. We were accually the first to do this(noted anyways) with our Non-Reference Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB's Both Rev. 1 and Rev. 2....successfully..

Like they say, you never know until you try, otherwise you sit and ponder waiting for someone else to try it! Just do some research and figure out the length between your screws(diagonally) if they are the same go for it! I mean the kraken is only $30 and i'm sure you can return the AIO if need be it doesn't work...


----------



## GoldenTiger

Thanks for the responses everyone, ordered another H75 to cool my CPU with... then I can move the quiet exhaust fan I had on top and the quiet one from my CPU heatsink (both Fractal 120mm fans) over to the front intakes, replacing two cruddy fans there and resulting in all of my system being nice and quiet at this point. Nothing like a good excuse to myself that it'll drastically reduce my CPU temps and finish fixing my GPU ones, and the value of a $30 set of fans coming with a 70 dollar closed-loop cooler purchase, to help convince myself







!


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

well just got my remplacement 780 back and up and running. Unfortunately this one dosnt seem to clock as good. My old one had an asic score of 83 this one is 70. It also is B1 revision. I do notice that it does seem to run cooler then my old one. maxes at 41c were my old one would max around 47. and this is even with a little extra voltage through it. it also has hynix memory were my old one had samsung... Oh well. Its nice to finally get some good fps now atleast.


----------



## GGexe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Agree with gopackersjt,
> 
> Mine, gopackersjt, and MackAttack's Non-Refernece GTX 770's worked and ours isn't on that list. Its all a matter of where the screw holes line up as gopackersjt stated. We were accually the first to do this(noted anyways) with our Non-Reference Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB's Both Rev. 1 and Rev. 2....successfully..
> 
> Like they say, you never know until you try, otherwise you sit and ponder waiting for someone else to try it! Just do some research and figure out the length between your screws(diagonally) if they are the same go for it! I mean the kraken is only $30 and i'm sure you can return the AIO if need be it doesn't work...


Great idea, i think ill give it a shot
i found some material here : http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/graphics/display/zotac-geforce-gtx-680-amp-edition_2.html
which says :" Contrary to our expectations, Zotac's engineers use a reference PCB with 4+2-phase power system for this AMP! Edition product: 4 phases for the GPU and 2 for everything else."

Could anyone guide me as to where to put VRM heatsink on this : http://www.xbitlabs.com/picture/?src=/images/graphics/zotac-geforce-gtx-680-amp-edition/12_zot68_pcbo_big.jpg


----------



## WeaverMSI

Just fitted a Corsair H105 to my 780 ti:



I quite like the parallel effect with the X60 in the roof and the H105 in the bottom.


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeaverMSI*
> 
> Just fitted a Corsair H105 to my 780 ti:
> 
> I quite like the parallel effect with the X60 in the roof and the H105 in the bottom.


which 780 ti do you have? reference or something else?

the reason i ask is because i have a reference card and mine makes a buzzing noise under load (not high pitched like coil whine). The noise wasn't noticeable with the stock cooler, and i only noticed it after installing the g10. I'm just trying to narrow down what my issue is. It's not any fan or pump, but it may be the psu, however I believe it's an issue with the reference card.


----------



## WeaverMSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> which 780 ti do you have? reference or something else?
> 
> the reason i ask is because i have a reference card and mine makes a buzzing noise under load (not high pitched like coil whine). The noise wasn't noticeable with the stock cooler, and i only noticed it after installing the g10. I'm just trying to narrow down what my issue is. It's not any fan or pump, but it may be the psu, however I believe it's an issue with the reference card.


This is with the MSI Gaming Edition 780 ti. I think it's a good one to use, as MSI adds a heat plate across the RAM and VRM chips to allow the Twin Frozr module to cool them. I also attached some little copper heat sinks to the plate for additional head dissipation. No funny sounds as yet.

I can't see how the reference card could itself be making any noise. Could anything simply be vibrating? I assume you've remounted everything.


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeaverMSI*
> 
> This is with the MSI Gaming Edition 780 ti. I think it's a good one to use, as MSI adds a heat plate across the RAM and VRM chips to allow the Twin Frozr module to cool them. I also attached some little copper heat sinks to the plate for additional head dissipation. No funny sounds as yet.
> 
> I can't see how the reference card could itself be making any noise. Could anything simply be vibrating? I assume you've remounted everything.


Wayyyy too many times now. I have a backplate on it from evga and i've tried taking it off, and it still makes the sound. I also tried using an evga acx cooler from a 780 i had, and again it still made the sound. I don't believe anything is vibrating as i tried holding the card still while it was making the sound, and nothing changed.

My theory is that nvidia knew that the card made the noise, so they put on a cooler that can contain the noise. Unfortunately i sold the reference cooler with another card, so i can't put the reference cooler back on my card to see if i can still hear the noise. I've been trying to find a cheap reference cooler on ebay for the past few days, but no luck yet. I've also ordered a new power supply to test.

I really hope it's not the motherboard, because i'm not going to buy a new p67 motherboard and my cpu is still perfectly fine.


----------



## WeaverMSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> Wayyyy too many times now. I have a backplate on it from evga and i've tried taking it off, and it still makes the sound. I also tried using an evga acx cooler from a 780 i had, and again it still made the sound. I don't believe anything is vibrating as i tried holding the card still while it was making the sound, and nothing changed.
> 
> My theory is that nvidia knew that the card made the noise, so they put on a cooler that can contain the noise. Unfortunately i sold the reference cooler with another card, so i can't put the reference cooler back on my card to see if i can still hear the noise. I've been trying to find a cheap reference cooler on ebay for the past few days, but no luck yet. I've also ordered a new power supply to test.
> 
> I really hope it's not the motherboard, because i'm not going to buy a new p67 motherboard and my cpu is still perfectly fine.


So you think it could be the capacitors on the card? Is there any way you could try testing it in someone else's rig?


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeaverMSI*
> 
> So you think it could be the capacitors on the card? Is there any way you could try testing it in someone else's rig?


That's what i'm thinking. I tried calling my local pc shop to see if i could test it, but they wouldn't let me and they wanted me to drop off my whole system and pay a $50 deposit. F that.

And all of my friends at home (i'm home from college over the summer) either have mac laptops or are console peasants. feels bad man


----------



## WeaverMSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> That's what i'm thinking. I tried calling my local pc shop to see if i could test it, but they wouldn't let me and they wanted me to drop off my whole system and pay a $50 deposit. F that.
> 
> And all of my friends at home (i'm home from college over the summer) either have mac laptops or are console peasants. feels bad man


You've tried testing other GPUs under load in the same system?

How about undervolting? Can the sound be modulated in any way, or is it just on/off?


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeaverMSI*
> 
> You've tried testing other GPUs under load in the same system?
> 
> How about undervolting? Can the sound be modulated in any way, or is it just on/off?


Afterburner isn't letting me undervolt. When i hit apply, it just resets to 0.

I tried a 780 and it didn't make any noises. And yea, it's basically on/off, though it does seem to fluctuate a bit when pushing out more/less frames, but it never becomes a high pitch noise (always just a buzzing sound).

edit: well, i should say that the 780 didn't make any noise at first. I tested it again right before i sold it and i kinda heard the noise, but it was nowhere near as loud as the 780 ti. That's why i ordered a new psu to try out.


----------



## WeaverMSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> Afterburner isn't letting me undervolt. When i hit apply, it just resets to 0.
> 
> I tried a 780 and it didn't make any noises. And yea, it's basically on/off, though it does seem to fluctuate a bit when pushing out more/less frames, but it never becomes a high pitch noise (always just a buzzing sound).
> 
> edit: well, i should say that the 780 didn't make any noise at first. I tested it again right before i sold it and i kinda heard the noise, but it was nowhere near as loud as the 780 ti. That's why i ordered a new psu to try out.


Does this occur in all the various benchmarking utilities? Just how loud is the sound?

Fingers crossed; with luck the new PSU will sort it.


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeaverMSI*
> 
> Does this occur in all the various benchmarking utilities? Just how loud is the sound?
> 
> Fingers crossed; with luck the new PSU will sort it.


Happens when my gpu load is @ 99 i believe. I've only tested a few games like metro last light, bioshock infinite, crysis 3 and valley benchmark.

The sound is loud enough that i can hear it over all of my fans (i have 11). And yea if the psu sorts it, that would be awesome, but if not i'm gonna try to get the a stock cooler and sell the card. Kinda ****ty, but when i installed the g10, i voided my warranty with msi. The sound is driving me crazy and i have no other option.


----------



## WeaverMSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeaverMSI*
> 
> Does this occur in all the various benchmarking utilities? Just how loud is the sound?
> 
> Fingers crossed; with luck the new PSU will sort it.


What makes you think it's not just low coil whine?


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeaverMSI*
> 
> What makes you think it's not just low coil whine?


that very well may be what the problem is, but i don't know much about coil whine, and everything I've read says that it's a high pitched sound that occurs at really high frame rates. Supposedly v-sync gets rid of it, but v-sync does nothing for me.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

iv heard of guys putting a few drops of super glu on the capictors to help if it is comming from them


----------



## Kolmain

Hello Kraken Owners









I've got my new SFF build up and running buy my two ASUS DCUII 780 Ti's are quite toasty in there. So I'm trying to get a Kraken G10 /w Antec 620 Kuhler in my Phenom M case with a H80i on the back. I think I've found a spot on the case (the bottom, if you're interested) but I only have 4 slots for the gpus as they have to be in those PCIe slots. If I cut off the "NZXT" portion of the bracket, can I get away with them up against each other? Here's the link to my build.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> Hello Kraken Owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got my new SFF build up and running buy my two ASUS DCUII 780 Ti's are quite toasty in there. So I'm trying to get a Kraken G10 /w Antec 620 Kuhler in my Phenom M case with a H80i on the back. I think I've found a spot on the case (the bottom, if you're interested) but I only have 4 slots for the gpus as they have to be in those PCIe slots. If I cut off the "NZXT" portion of the bracket, can I get away with them up against each other? Here's the link to my build.


This doesn't help us see inside your case to see how the GPU's are sitting.


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> Hello Kraken Owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got my new SFF build up and running buy my two ASUS DCUII 780 Ti's are quite toasty in there. So I'm trying to get a Kraken G10 /w Antec 620 Kuhler in my Phenom M case with a H80i on the back. I think I've found a spot on the case (the bottom, if you're interested) but I only have 4 slots for the gpus as they have to be in those PCIe slots. If I cut off the "NZXT" portion of the bracket, can I get away with them up against each other? Here's the link to my build.


yes u can cut off the vertical portion. I already did it and i also cut off fan portion. i' am going to cool vrm1 with a 120mm noctua fan secured to alpenfohn pci bracket.
I'll post photos next week.


----------



## Kolmain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> This doesn't help us see inside your case to see how the GPU's are sitting.


This picture best represents my case, especially the GPU's (identical setup)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> yes u can cut off the vertical portion. I already did it and i also cut off fan portion. i' am going to cool vrm1 with a 120mm noctua fan secured to alpenfohn pci bracket.
> I'll post photos next week.


I can't use another bracket though as the cards are up against one another, so can I get the Antec Kuhler 620 + fan for VRMs in there without hitting the next card? I -could- use it on the top one, but the bottom one is the one with temp issues...


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> This picture best represents my case, especially the GPU's (identical setup)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't use another bracket though as the cards are up against one another, so can I get the Antec Kuhler 620 + fan for VRMs in there without hitting the next card? I -could- use it on the top one, but the bottom one is the one with temp issues...


I think you'll be fine the kraken braket isn't very big at all and cutting the NXZT part of it will do nothing for the height since the it hides the fan behind it. I'd say the bracket is a little more than 20mm (little bigger than the fan on it)


----------



## Kolmain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I think you'll be fine the kraken braket isn't very big at all and cutting the NXZT part of it will do nothing for the height since the it hides the fan behind it. I'd say the bracket is a little more than 20mm (little bigger than the fan on it)


Thanks for your input, Idewitt.

The pictures I've seen have the NZXT part of it nearly 3 slots long though, it would run into the top graphics card, no?...


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> Thanks for your input, Idewitt.
> 
> The pictures I've seen have the NZXT part of it nearly 3 slots long though, it would run into the top graphics card, no?...


Yeah i'd have to measure mine to figure out how many slots it is, pictures don't do the justice.

As for them being close not sure that matters i seen alot of setups like these:



Those are damn near touching...


----------



## Kolmain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Yeah i'd have to measure mine to figure out how many slots it is, pictures don't do the justice.
> 
> As for them being close not sure that matters i seen alot of setups like these:
> 
> 
> 
> Those are damn near touching...


I don't think them being edge to edge matters as long as the fans spin (mine didn't, had to add a spacer) but I'm more concerned if the pump+fan will fit between the two cards...


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> I don't think them being edge to edge matters as long as the fans spin (mine didn't, had to add a spacer) but I'm more concerned if the pump+fan will fit between the two cards...


Right well ill measure from my pcb board to the tallest point and give you the measurements. The tallest part is what you had said the Piece with the NXZT logo...


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> This picture best represents my case, especially the GPU's (identical setup)
> 
> I can't use another bracket though as the cards are up against one another, so can I get the Antec Kuhler 620 + fan for VRMs in there without hitting the next card? I -could- use it on the top one, but the bottom one is the one with temp issues...


You could try to secure a vertical 120/140mm fan. It wil blow on both vrm1 cards. And it will surely move more air than a "stupid" 90mm fan @1500rpm.


----------



## DJGhosty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Agree with gopackersjt,
> 
> Mine, gopackersjt, and MackAttack's Non-Refernece GTX 770's worked and ours isn't on that list. Its all a matter of where the screw holes line up as gopackersjt stated. We were accually the first to do this(noted anyways) with our Non-Reference Gigabyte GTX 770 4GB's Both Rev. 1 and Rev. 2....successfully..
> 
> Like they say, you never know until you try, otherwise you sit and ponder waiting for someone else to try it! Just do some research and figure out the length between your screws(diagonally) if they are the same go for it! I mean the kraken is only $30 and i'm sure you can return the AIO if need be it doesn't work...


Well I have looked at the screw holes on the AMP edition of the 680 it seems they have drilled the screw holes a lot larger than normal if you look at the back of the card and also you do not know what is going to get in the way on the top of the card until you remove the cooler as there are a lot of other screws that go through the card, and also it looks like the VRM modules have had the orientation changed, which is why I said I do not think it will be compatible, you may have been lucky that they may have only changed small things on your 770's but when non-ref cards are involved then they can change a lot in comparison to other non ref cards.....a pic below of an AMP edition 680....

"Removed pic"

Just a quick apology I have just seen another card which is exactly the same so yes the G10 bracket should be perfect for this card it is a NVidia card which I have not used in a very long time and do not follow as much as I do AMD cards.....


----------



## Vendari

I tightened the screws a bit after cleaning the rad.... scores went up lol


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJGhosty01*
> 
> Well I have looked at the screw holes on the AMP edition of the 680 it seems they have drilled the screw holes a lot larger than normal if you look at the back of the card and also you do not know what is going to get in the way on the top of the card until you remove the cooler as there are a lot of other screws that go through the card, and also it looks like the VRM modules have had the orientation changed, which is why I said I do not think it will be compatible, you may have been lucky that they may have only changed small things on your 770's but when non-ref cards are involved then they can change a lot in comparison to other non ref cards.....a pic below of an AMP edition 680....
> 
> "Removed pic"
> 
> Just a quick apology I have just seen another card which is exactly the same so yes the G10 bracket should be perfect for this card it is a NVidia card which I have not used in a very long time and do not follow as much as I do AMD cards.....


Yeah i think that he should just take the stock cooler off and take pictures if he wants to make sure, that is if there's not warranty tape anywhere. I was lucky and did not void my gigabyte warranty no seals to break.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> This picture best represents my case, especially the GPU's (identical setup)
> 
> I can't use another bracket though as the cards are up against one another, so can I get the Antec Kuhler 620 + fan for VRMs in there without hitting the next card? I -could- use it on the top one, but the bottom one is the one with temp issues...


Its 2'' 1/8 thats how tall it is measuring from back bracket(the squarish bracket facing up) to the bottom part where the other NZXT logo is. I guess measure and see how tall your stock coolers are and go from there.


----------



## Kolmain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Its 2'' 1/8 thats how tall it is measuring from back bracket(the squarish bracket facing up) to the bottom part where the other NZXT logo is. I guess measure and see how tall your stock coolers are and go from there.


Thanks, I'll check and get back to you! Can you tell me from the card to the top of the pump too?


----------



## Obi-Shinobi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> which 780 ti do you have? reference or something else?
> 
> the reason i ask is because i have a reference card and mine makes a buzzing noise under load (not high pitched like coil whine). The noise wasn't noticeable with the stock cooler, and i only noticed it after installing the g10. I'm just trying to narrow down what my issue is. It's not any fan or pump, but it may be the psu, however I believe it's an issue with the reference card.


Try setting a FPS cap with Rivatuner (comes with afterburner), I had a crazy noise when I would exit valley or heaven. Basically what would happen is the FPS would sky rocket to over 3000 when exiting, I capped it at 200 and the noise went away. Hope it helps


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obi-Shinobi*
> 
> Try setting a FPS cap with Rivatuner (comes with afterburner), I had a crazy noise when I would exit valley or heaven. Basically what would happen is the FPS would sky rocket to over 3000 when exiting, I capped it at 200 and the noise went away. Hope it helps


Yea i noticed that too when exiting valley. It would shoot my cards voltage up and make a high pitched sound. thanks for the tip! didn't know that rivatuner could frame cap as I've never bothered looking into it.

Unfortunately, the card still makes a buzzing sound under load. I could kinda drown the noise out by turning my fans up, but i specifically designed my system to be whisper quiet (which is one of the reasons i got the g10).


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> Thanks, I'll check and get back to you! Can you tell me from the card to the top of the pump too?


Yeah i can do that, if the meaning behind this is to see how tall it is without that NZXT logo hanging down I believe the fan still sits taller than the pump but i will check that for you.


----------



## Kolmain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Yeah i can do that, if the meaning behind this is to see how tall it is without that NZXT logo hanging down I believe the fan still sits taller than the pump but i will check that for you.


If I can't fit the fan, I'll just keep the fan blowing down over the cards.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> If I can't fit the fan, I'll just keep the fan blowing down over the cards.


Alright sounds good, ill get the measurements when i get home, at work now. Hopefully i remember before i hop on the BF Hardline Beta.


----------



## Ized

G10 alternative that I don't see many people use:





Fitted on my ref R9 290 perfectly.

Way cheaper than the NZXT too at more than half the price. Can find it on Amazon UK and Ebay.

Canceling my G10 order that just keeps getting delayed!

Supports everything the G10 website lists, I used a Zalman LQ315.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Nice, looks simpler to install and less bulky. Can you link it on amazon UK?







Might grab one.

Found it, nice! Thanks for the tip.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ized*
> 
> G10 alternative that I don't see many people use:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitted on my ref R9 290 perfectly.
> 
> Way cheaper than the NZXT too at more than half the price. Can find it on Amazon UK and Ebay.
> 
> Canceling my G10 order that just keeps getting delayed!
> 
> Supports everything the G10 website lists, I used a Zalman LQ315.


Should of ordered it from newegg always on top of it. Can we see some pictures of this bracket in place on your 290? From all angles preferably so we can get a good look at how it looks on your card.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ized*
> 
> G10 alternative that I don't see many people use:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitted on my ref R9 290 perfectly.
> 
> Way cheaper than the NZXT too at more than half the price. Can find it on Amazon UK and Ebay.
> 
> Canceling my G10 order that just keeps getting delayed!
> 
> Supports everything the G10 website lists, I used a Zalman LQ315.


Nice one. Do you know perhaps if it supports corsair's h55/75 too?


----------



## Ized

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *melodystyle2003*
> 
> Nice one. Do you know perhaps if it supports corsair's h55/75 too?


Anything that the G10 supports as far as I can tell









Rebranded Asetek stuff with the circle pump and teeth mounting system.

I'm not going to be able to get pretty pictures from all angles as requested though, best I can provide will just show it fitting - which I promise it does









Its not as pretty as the G10, but if thats not an issue for you then its all good.


----------



## PJFT808

You wont see much about the Pulse bracket in the G10 owners thread.... Its known in the red mod thread though.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ized*
> 
> Anything that the G10 supports as far as I can tell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebranded Asetek stuff with the circle pump and teeth mounting system.
> 
> I'm not going to be able to get pretty pictures from all angles as requested though, best I can provide will just show it fitting - which I promise it does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its not as pretty as the G10, but if thats not an issue for you then its all good.


Yeahh, i do like how pretty mine looks


----------



## d0mini

I posted here a while back - just posting again to say that my G10 bracket should be arriving sometime tomorrow, and I will be sure to post before/after temps or issues or cracked GPU die or whatever that may happen








Can't wait to have that sweet looking club signature









I will be doing it on a 780 lightning with an H75, primarily for noise reasons but heck lower temps would be nice too! Plan on attempting to use the slightly dusty pre-applied thermal paste on the AIO cooler and if that gives bad temperatures use some NT-H1 I have, using the finger tightening method to attach the bracket and cooler. I've even gone so far as to get email confirmation that I can safely remove the MSI cooler without voiding the warranty








If anyone has any other tips for applying the bracket I would be very grateful, I am being a little anal about this seeing how expensive these cards are...


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I posted here a while back - just posting again to say that my G10 bracket should be arriving sometime tomorrow, and I will be sure to post before/after temps or issues or cracked GPU die or whatever that may happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to have that sweet looking club signature


Good luck hope all goes smooth!


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Good luck hope all goes smooth!


Thank you


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I posted here a while back - just posting again to say that my G10 bracket should be arriving sometime tomorrow, and I will be sure to post before/after temps or issues or cracked GPU die or whatever that may happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to have that sweet looking club signature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be doing it on a 780 lightning with an H75, primarily for noise reasons but heck lower temps would be nice too! Plan on attempting to use the slightly dusty pre-applied thermal paste on the AIO cooler and if that gives bad temperatures use some NT-H1 I have, using the finger tightening method to attach the bracket and cooler. I've even gone so far as to get email confirmation that I can safely remove the MSI cooler without voiding the warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has any other tips for applying the bracket I would be very grateful, I am being a little anal about this seeing how expensive these cards are...


My recommendations
Assemble everything first on the PCB (i.e. have the mounting screws poking thru and all ready to go, thermal paste applied)
Clear space in you case first, decide on your hose direction and placement beforehand, I didn't with mine and had to redo + repaste because I didn't take 2 minutes to do a trial run
Engage the circular barbs of the AIO in to the bracket place then place on the GPU. Only tighten the screws maybe 2-3 turns at the most since that mounting system is very powerful, can warp the PCB.
Place the GPU in to the slot + secure first then secure the AIO.

Dw about the thermal paste, doesn't really matter with these Aseteck AIOs, they all have extreme flat contact surfaces with a slight convexity towards the edges. This means that contact is pretty much 100%+ but you can crack the GPU die with too much pressure. I used really shoddy Phobya HeGrease Standard and I achieved about the same result as the uber expensive HeGrease Extreme.

Good luck


----------



## d0mini

Thanks Dasboogieman







waiting with anticipation!!


----------



## d0mini

It's done..!

Here are the screws etc the bracket came with - I am not sure but I think the foam pads are new, at least I don't remember anyone mentioning them before



Here's what it looks like in my case, I had to remove one of the fans from the CPU cooler so it could fit up there.. And it only just fit..!



This is a close up of where the foam pads are instructed to go - it said they were to ease installation..? It may be a little difficult to see, but it is between the silver capacitor and the power cables, it's a bit wonky, but I think it's done its job...



Temperature wise I have done a quick test at stock 1110/6000 and the core seemed to plateau around 60°C, VRMs at 54°C and Memory at 58. The supplied fan is on full. Does this sound right to you guys?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> It's done..!
> 
> Temperature wise I have done a quick test at stock 1110/6000 and the core seemed to plateau around 60°C, VRMs at 54°C and Memory at 58. The supplied fan is on full. Does this sound right to you guys?


Looks good. Temperatures are on the higher side, what's your ambient temperatures? I get about 50 degrees with 25 degrees ambient with my H90 on a Sapphire 290 OCed to 1100Mhz.
Maybe risk 2 more turns of the screws to be sure theres good contact?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> It's done..!
> 
> Here are the screws etc the bracket came with - I am not sure but I think the foam pads are new, at least I don't remember anyone mentioning them before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like in my case, I had to remove one of the fans from the CPU cooler so it could fit up there.. And it only just fit..!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a close up of where the foam pads are instructed to go - it said they were to ease installation..? It may be a little difficult to see, but it is between the silver capacitor and the power cables, it's a bit wonky, but I think it's done its job...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temperature wise I have done a quick test at stock 1110/6000 and the core seemed to plateau around 60°C, VRMs at 54°C and Memory at 58. The supplied fan is on full. Does this sound right to you guys?


Yeah the reason a few of us didn't mention them is because we tryed them and decided they were useless(well i felt they were useless so i took them off)....

Looks good i like that backplate with the LED's makes it look cool.

And as for the temperatures, seem a little higher(nothing to be worried about but seems like stock cooler temps) Kinda weird because i feel the VRM should be cooler than the VRAM(memory). Make sure that the cooler is even on your GPU, maybe need a little more tightening....


----------



## Ramzinho

i thinks your temps are pretty reasonable. and i like the fan you are using to blow air into the card. Also i can now easily scan your finger prints OFF that NZXT logo and hunt you down Mwahahahahaha


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Wow that looks really nice with that backplate Domini!! Id say your temps are on the high side though... Mine runs around 45C at max load. and I only have one fan on my h55. My ambient temps are around 20C. I think you prob need to tighten it up more. Does the bracket wiggle really easily?

edit: what is your ariflow config?


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i thinks your temps are pretty reasonable. and i like the fan you are using to blow air into the card. Also i can now easily scan your finger prints OFF that NZXT logo and hunt you down Mwahahahahaha


Haha yes.. That fan is secured with blue tack, has been for a while..









Thank you for all the comments, I think I'll just leave it for a bit, test some more and revel in the fact I haven't broken anything







Wouldn't have been able to do this without the info in this thread, thank you all!


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Wow that looks really nice with that backplate Domini!! Id say your temps are on the high side though... Mine runs around 45C at max load. and I only have one fan on my h55. My ambient temps are around 20C. I think you prob need to tighten it up more. Does the bracket wiggle really easily?
> 
> edit: what is your ariflow config?


My ambient right now is around 26 degrees, my airflow config is intake from the front and side, exhaust from the top and back. I screwed it pretty tight, but I will check. When I was tightening it I could see the copper plate of the cooler wasn't flush with the GPU heatsink, I carried on tightening and it levelled out alright.. I'll try tightening it, if that doesn't work, I will try reseating the cooler.

It is quite hot in London right now..


----------



## d0mini

Reseated, tightened until the pcb was bending, released it a tiny bit, started testing and realised my voltage was still at +44mv... made it properly at stock and now temps level out at 47 degrees on everything - mem vrm and core. Only tested for 15 mins, but the core had a flat line, and the mem and VRM seemed fairly stationary too. I tested with Heaven's Extreme preset with fans at 1150rpm.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Reseated, tightened until the pcb was bending, released it a tiny bit, started testing and realised my voltage was still at +44mv... made it properly at stock and now temps level out at 47 degrees on everything - mem vrm and core. Only tested for 15 mins, but the core had a flat line, and the mem and VRM seemed fairly stationary too. I tested with Heaven's Extreme preset with fans at 1150rpm.


Nice. Yeah, I expect the temperatures to be about 50 degrees when overclocked.
Nice things these AIO units, because we are using water as the thermal transfer medium (vs metallic conduction on stock coolers or vapor chambers) and good block contact, for our purposes (different story for Intel CPUs which are much more energy dense) it doesn't really care about the size of the die or the thermal paste used.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Reseated, tightened until the pcb was bending, released it a tiny bit, started testing and realised my voltage was still at +44mv... made it properly at stock and now temps level out at 47 degrees on everything - mem vrm and core. Only tested for 15 mins, but the core had a flat line, and the mem and VRM seemed fairly stationary too. I tested with Heaven's Extreme preset with fans at 1150rpm.


sweet! those are better! enjoy your new toy man!


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> sweet! those are better! enjoy your new toy man!


The lightning seems like the perfect card to do this with: a ridiculous amount of VRM phases to spread out heat, a unisink that doesn't even need modding to work with an asetek cooler, and a backplate... I can't believe how well it works..









Thanks for adding me man







I shall wear the sig with pride.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> Unfortunately, the card still makes a buzzing sound under load. I could kinda drown the noise out by turning my fans up, but i specifically designed my system to be whisper quiet (which is one of the reasons i got the g10).


Just saw your post, strangely enough was looking how you were all doing with the G10 before buying one.

The buzz you hear is something I have lived with for quiet a while now myself, on multiple GTX780ti cards,
http://youtu.be/o9SMYKpJLqs
http://youtu.be/aa4kFFpt5Qs
http://youtu.be/TXzeptWk104

1 Gigabyte, 2 Asus DCII, 2 Galaxy Hall of Fame's, so I'm guessing its a common problem with the cards.
Its not coil whine because it happens at low FPS under high GPU/Power usage is where it gets the loudest, yet not when you use Furmark/Kombuster.

On topic, has anyone been able to mount the G10 over their backplates, my VRM and VRAM heatsinks screw into the backplate, and I would like to reuse them with the G10.


----------



## maynard14

Here is mine:

swap the fans off my antec kuhler 920 from push pull to pull push, or it became an exhaust



to this



from vrm1 load max 75c to vrm1 62c!

from gpu core 67c to gpu core load 62c! im so happy


----------



## Lou HM

Hi all,
Here is my crossfire setup HD 7970 (with Thermaltake water 3.0) & R9 280X (with Antec H2o 920), recently did some cable management not reflected on the pic... Lol


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Just saw your post, strangely enough was looking how you were all doing with the G10 before buying one.
> 
> The buzz you hear is something I have lived with for quiet a while now myself, on multiple GTX780ti cards,
> http://youtu.be/o9SMYKpJLqs
> http://youtu.be/aa4kFFpt5Qs
> http://youtu.be/TXzeptWk104
> 
> 1 Gigabyte, 2 Asus DCII, 2 Galaxy Hall of Fame's, so I'm guessing its a common problem with the cards.
> Its not coil whine because it happens at low FPS under high GPU/Power usage is where it gets the loudest, yet not when you use Furmark/Kombuster.
> 
> On topic, has anyone been able to mount the G10 over their backplates, my VRM and VRAM heatsinks screw into the backplate, and I would like to reuse them with the G10.


It's kinda hard to hear the noise in your videos over the fans-- could just be a mic quality issue-- so i can't be sure it's the same noise, but if it bothers you with the stock cooler on then it's gonna bother you 10x more if you install the g10 on your card because the fan that comes with the g10 is silent at %100.

I'm waiting for corsair to release their hg10. It looks like it will contain the noises coming from the vrm side of the card much better than the g10 as it is 'semi' enclosed and uses the blower fan that comes with the reference cooler. With the g10 there's a good amount of open space between the vrms and the fan that cools them which i believe allows the noise to escape, whereas the hg10 has the fan right atop the plate the used to cool the vrms which also sits in an enclosure. I just saw *this post on techpowerup*, and i'm interested in how he wen't about doing it. Though this isn't useful to you as your card isn't the reference model.

And i was able to keep an evga backplate on my card, but i had to modify the vram/vrm plate by cutting off the four tabs that have screw holes on them around the gpu because the AIO wasn't able to make contact with the gpu. I've seen someone suggest a copper shim if you are unwilling to modify the plate, but I would imagine that the cooling capacity would decrease if you go that route.


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou HM*
> 
> Hi all,
> recently did some cable management not reflected on the pic... Lol


lol i would hope so. That looks awful. It's still going to look crowded either way, but that picture gave me a good laugh.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> lol i would hope so. That looks awful. It's still going to look crowded either way, but that picture gave me a good laugh.


@ lou hm what temps are you getting with your video cards?


----------



## Lou HM

44C after 15 minutes of furmark.


----------



## maynard14

wow thats cool! nice!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> It's kinda hard to hear the noise in your videos over the fans-- could just be a mic quality issue-- so i can't be sure it's the same noise, but if it bothers you with the stock cooler on then it's gonna bother you 10x more if you install the g10 on your card because the fan that comes with the g10 is silent at %100.


PM'd you instead of going off topic here..

The G10 looks good, simple and cheaper than a full custom loop, even if you were to buy a cooler with it.

What AIO do you guys recommend for a GTX780ti?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> PM'd you instead of going off topic here..
> 
> The G10 looks good, simple and cheaper than a full custom loop, even if you were to buy a cooler with it.
> 
> What AIO do you guys recommend for a GTX780ti?


Probably I would recommend the NZXT Kraken X40. 140mm (I got the corsair H90 version of the same AIO) rad will yield about 45 degrees load and 50 degrees overclock with +125mv on the AMD 290 so I imagine your temperatures will be even lower. The reason I recommend the X40 is the hose length is much longer than my H90 thus it will open more mounting possibilities for you. I would actually avoid the Corsair units if possible because their hose lengths are shorter.

I don't recommend the larger 240mm or 280mm AIOs because it is completely overkill compared to the potential headaches of finding mounting points, you will be limited by your VRM temperatures long before core temperatures become a problem.


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> What AIO do you guys recommend for a GTX780ti?


If you wanna save money and space inside your case, go with the h55. My temps maxed @ ~63C with ~26C ambient, boost clocked to about 1300MHz and +50mV. And that was running valley for like 3hrs. Like das said, your vrm temps is what will throttle the card. Unfortunately i couldn't monitor the vrm temps on the 780ti.

edit: i should probably mention that i was using a push pull setup with an sp120 pushing and another fan pulling. both only spinning at ~1200rpm, both inaudible. **note that the h55 doesn't come with an sp120.


----------



## Vendari

I agree, max temps my card got was 50°c and it was on a hot sunny day playing Thief ... Around 35°c ambient. Your VRM temps will be the hottest for this card. If you can find a way to use the stock unisink (which applies more pressure on the VRMs and VRAM modules) you will definitely get better temps on the said VRMs. And instead of thermal tape you get to use the more efficient thermal pad. (I only assume thermal pads are more efficient.)


----------



## pdasterly

Get whatever fits your case, best answer already stated. Your vrm1 temps will hold you back before anything, if you oc


----------



## Hl86

How tight do you need to screw it?
I installed mine very light screwed on and it showed artifacts after 5 sec.I installed the old cooler and it works again.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hl86*
> 
> How tight do you need to screw it?
> I installed mine very light screwed on and it showed artifacts after 5 sec.I installed the old cooler and it works again.


Tight as your can without bending your board.


----------



## Lou HM

I install http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14971/ex-blc-1051/EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_HD7970_Cu_Adapter.html and this help bring down my temp from Max 53C to 44C on my R9 280X yet the instruction did not mention anything about a plate been necessary, but this was necessary for my HD 7970.
As far as the VRM Temp I cant monitor it through My HD 7970 but on my R9 280X I see reduction of about 10-15C.
Sorry english is not my first language


----------



## Hl86

Got it installed on 290x. 56c core with a 620kuhler. 66c vrm1 with gelid vrm cooling. And noise is low.


----------



## gopackersjt

For all of you guys with r9 290/290x's, do you guys need shims between the block and the core for proper contact?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> For all of you guys with r9 290/290x's, do you guys need shims between the block and the core for proper contact?


No shim required


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> No shim required


no shim required for R9 290(X) you do need it for some 280(X)'s/79xx series cards


----------



## WeaverMSI

Memory and VRM temps are certainly a concern, particularly for those cards that don't have inbuilt sensors (cough, 780 ti, cough). I'd like to point a thermal imaging camera at mine to find out what it's really hitting. I think that the temps are probably well within the bounds of acceptability (particularly after adding extra copper heatsinks), but it'd be nice to know.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> been working all day, well not working but running around trying to find mini machine bolts unsuccessfully. Heres what Ive got so far
> 
> fujipoly extreme on vrm1 on back of card
> 
> fujipoly extreme on vrm2 on back of card
> 
> drilled larger holes in gelid heatsink 1/8 drill bit
> 
> Popping the cap off makes install so much easier
> 
> 
> 
> Heatkiller backplate, had to enlarge 4 screw holes for gpu mount, 5/32 drill bit
> 
> 
> Had to buy nuts for the heatkiller screws, forgot size m3 maybe, also bought a bunch of nylon washers, m3 again but dont hold me to that.
> 
> card is now flat, no sagging or bending
> 
> 
> Mounted in case
> 
> 
> took a little longer to put together 2nd card, I stripped one of the nzxt gpu mount screws, lucky when i bought they had to send new(longer screws). I just used one of the old screws, the ones that were too short for the 290x. The short screws work fine.
> 
> 
> All together now, let the testing commence
> 
> 
> Rog front base just gave me huge headache, took about an hour to figure out. Now I have reason to install windows 8.


Update. the gelid heatsink needs the fujipoly thermal pad. I only had enough to do 1 card and Im getting 20c difference between the two under load. I dont think the zalman fan made any difference


----------



## Shine6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Update. the gelid heatsink needs the fujipoly thermal pad. I only had enough to do 1 card and Im getting 20c difference between the two under load. I dont think the zalman fan made any difference


You mean the thermal pad delivered with the gelid is not good enough? THis is the one I am using, and the VRM1 never goes more than 80°C

What temps do you get?


----------



## pdasterly

64 on main card and 88 on 2nd card. I have a little fujipoly left over, hope its enough to finish this project.

Im double overclocked, reference sapphire flashed with tri-x oc bios, then added some more clock speed on top of that


----------



## GoldenTiger

Update regarding my temperatures hitting 60c peak on my 780 and thinking it was due to the CPU heatsink exhausting into the radiator. I was going to install an H90 for the CPU to try to fix this, however I ended up replacing the card with a Gigabyte 780 Ti OC card and gave it some mini MOSFET heatsinks to aid the VRMs before installing the H90.

At first I was hitting the same temperatures as the 780 was, but I decided to go back in and make sure all four corners of the block were contacting properly because it seemed weird how quickly and unevenly it would heat in terms of varying heat loads/gpu usage, and after tightening all four down as far as they'd go without using much force, my temperatures are now capping out at 50c peak after an hour+ of BF4 multi with the 780Ti. (for reference this is with an H75 with its stock pair of fans at 80% PWM speeds set in the BIOS, or about 1675rpm).

Looking forward to getting a skyn3t BIOS for it since it's got an unmodded revision and I will be flying along + installing the H90 for the CPU next







.

Moral of the story, make sure everything's tight and even







, don't be like me and undo it a scrap after it's fully tightened to try to even it out & make sure it's not too much pressure







. I'm far too paranoid and baby my computer parts...


----------



## chzxmnky

Anyone here have experience with the G10 on an XFX R9 290 Double Dissipation? I think it's non-reference but I'm not 100% sure. I checked coolingconfigurator.com and have only found cards similar to it listed.

XFX R9 290 Black Double Dissipation - Reference
XFX R9 290X Double Dissipation - Reference

There's no listing for my exact card, the regular R9 290 Double Dissipation and I was hoping someone here might know. Thanks!


----------



## Lou HM

I just install the g10 on a XFX R9 290x Core Edition, instalation was a success, not sure if this help you as my card is not double dissipation.


----------



## wapeddell

Ok I got my copper shim do apply theraml paste to the shim or to the gpu then put on the shim?


----------



## Lou HM

I applied Thermal paste to the GPU (HD 7970/280X) and also to the opposite GPU side of the Shim as well, this Help Temperature a lot.


----------



## wapeddell

K just got everything installed and idle is 26c under load benchmarking using valley 43c


----------



## wapeddell

For anyone using a 7970 here is the copper shim I bought and yes it works http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14971/ex-blc-1051/EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_HD7970_Cu_Adapter.html







Finally can retire my stock reference heat sink.


----------



## RackdNStackd

Looky what I got









Time to see if it fits my MSI GTX N560-Ti


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RackdNStackd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looky what I got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to see if it fits my MSI GTX N560-Ti


Switchin to Intel also I see lol


----------



## RackdNStackd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Switchin to Intel also I see lol


I have absolutely zero brand loyalty. From what I read, Intel has the future of desktop chips (without on-board GPU) locked down, the chip is brand new, the money was there, and the price was right. Time to ditch this old piece of crap and see what she can really do.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RackdNStackd*
> 
> I have absolutely zero brand loyalty. From what I read, Intel has the future of desktop chips (without on-board GPU) locked down, the chip is brand new, the money was there, and the price was right. Time to ditch this old piece of crap and see what she can really do.


Present and future, amd cpu is 5 years behind, thats like 50 in dog years lol


----------



## RackdNStackd

Got it installed and idling at 31 C! Let's fire up Combustor and see how she does with her 1GHz O/C...

Edit: Full Valley benchmark on Ultra and temps didn't break over 51 C







I'm a happy guy.


----------



## wapeddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RackdNStackd*
> 
> Got it installed and idling at 31 C! Let's fire up Combustor and see how she does with her 1GHz O/C...
> 
> Edit: Full Valley benchmark on Ultra and temps didn't break over 51 C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a happy guy.


most people recommend using vram heatsinks if over clocking just thought I would share because another guy fired his card by over clocking if you're not over volting then you should be fine but if I were you to be on the safe side I would get some vram heat sinks just in case


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wapeddell*
> 
> most people recommend using vram heatsinks if over clocking just thought I would share because another guy fired his card by over clocking if you're not over volting then you should be fine but if I were you to be on the safe side I would get some vram heat sinks just in case


I agree, this is especially important on the NVIDIA 780ti cards due to high VRAM speeds.


----------



## Legendchris99

I've dismantled my EVGA 780 SC ACX to verify the number of heat sinks needed for the VRMs. The number of heat sinks I need to get is shown on the opposite plate where there is the grey rubber/insulation material right?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legendchris99*
> 
> I've dismantled my EVGA 780 SC ACX to verify the number of heat sinks needed for the VRMs. The number of heat sinks I need to get is shown on the opposite plate where there is the grey rubber/insulation material right?


Yeah, its 12. Also, its fairly easy to calculate. Every VRAM chip is on a 32 bit bus, GK110 uses a 384bit bus so it means that there must be a minimum of 12 chips to fill out the channels. Titan and high VRAM capacity cards use 2 chips per channel so you see chips on the backside too.


----------



## Legendchris99

(The small ones)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Yeah, its 12. Also, its fairly easy to calculate. Every VRAM chip is on a 32 bit bus, GK110 uses a 384bit bus so it means that there must be a minimum of 12 chips to fill out the channels. Titan and high VRAM capacity cards use 2 chips per channel so you see chips on the backside too.


You are referring to the 12 chips around the processor right?

What about the 3 others to the left?


----------



## pdasterly

Put a heatsink everywhere there was a thermal pad


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Present and future, amd cpu is 5 years behind, thats like 50 in dog years lol


Well its a good thing we live by human years because my 8350 is still rocking out








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RackdNStackd*
> 
> Got it installed and idling at 31 C! Let's fire up Combustor and see how she does with her 1GHz O/C...
> 
> Edit: Full Valley benchmark on Ultra and temps didn't break over 51 C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a happy guy.


Nice!! Should post a couple pics of your setup! BTW I wasn't saying switching was bad I'm not brand bias either I went with the most logical price. 8350 $180 > i7 $300+(don't know what it is now that was at the time) couldn't justify $300 processor at this time. Plus the board I wanted with the i7 was expensive also would broke the bank. Went for high end EVERYTHING rather than just high end board and CPU....


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legendchris99*
> 
> (The small ones)
> You are referring to the 12 chips around the processor right?
> 
> What about the 3 others to the left?


Those are for the VRMs on your card, there might even be one on the very far left. There has been one user who has the G10 mod (I don't remember, may have been the Acellero mod) on the GTX 780 reference who blew the VRM assembly on the far left of the card (left of the row of five capacitors), it was only a single chip but it definitely fried.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legendchris99*
> 
> (The small ones)
> You are referring to the 12 chips around the processor right?
> 
> What about the 3 others to the left?


If that backplate fits with the kraken I don't think you will need heasinks on the back of your card probably just the front. The VRAM are the 12 blocks around the GPU die. The other 3 are VRMS them will need as many heatsinks as you can over the them 3 spots of vmrs .


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well its a good thing we live by human years because my 8350 is still rocking out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice!! Should post a couple pics of your setup! BTW I wasn't saying switching was bad I'm not brand bias either I went with the most logical price. 8350 $180 > i7 $300+(don't know what it is now that was at the time) couldn't justify $300 processor at this time. Plus the board I wanted with the i7 was expensive also would broke the bank. Went for high end EVERYTHING rather than just high end board and CPU....


Old I7 950 or 6-core xeon can be had for under $100, just good luck finding a decent mobo.


----------



## RackdNStackd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wapeddell*
> 
> most people recommend using vram heatsinks if over clocking just thought I would share because another guy fired his card by over clocking if you're not over volting then you should be fine but if I were you to be on the safe side I would get some vram heat sinks just in case


Thanks! My MSi 560Ti Has a Unisink positioned over the VRMs which I left in place, Looking at the stock cooler, there was no thermal interface to the VRAMs and it appears that the fan just blew hot air from the cooler down onto them. As the card is set up right now I have the Kraken fan blowing top speed, a 200mm fan at top speed directly over top of the card, and the H110 blowing top speed directly beside it. There's a lot of cool airflow over the VRAMs but I have some heat sinks on the short list. Will need to find some with some effective Thermal Pads because I'm not interested in permanently modifying the card.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Old I7 950 or 6-core xeon can be had for under $100, just good luck finding a decent mobo.


Satisfied with my rig


----------



## Legendchris99

What's the best copper or aluminium heat sinks?


----------



## pdasterly

copper absorbs more heat, aluminum is lighter.
copper 5g vs aluminum 1g


----------



## Legendchris99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> copper absorbs more heat, aluminum is lighter.
> copper 5g vs aluminum 1g


Ok thanks. I think I will buy copper ones, I don't care about weight as long they do their job.


----------



## Legendchris99

Are these good?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221381852704?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

and these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310865402415?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legendchris99*
> 
> Are these good?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221381852704?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> and these:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310865402415?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


The first link you posted will work fine for VRAM cooling.


----------



## Legendchris99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> The first link you posted will work fine for VRAM cooling.


Is the second link good for VRM cooling? I will apply long heatsinks because the opposite plate from my previous post had long thermal/rubber things. I can't find very small heatsinks like 0.6mmx0.6mm for each VRM.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legendchris99*
> 
> Is the second link good for VRM cooling? I will apply long heatsinks because the opposite plate from my previous post had long thermal/rubber things. I can't find very small heatsinks like 0.6mmx0.6mm for each VRM.


I second the first link that what most of us used.


----------



## pdasterly

i used these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281325300404?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## RackdNStackd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well its a good thing we live by human years because my 8350 is still rocking out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice!! Should post a couple pics of your setup! BTW I wasn't saying switching was bad I'm not brand bias either I went with the most logical price. 8350 $180 > i7 $300+(don't know what it is now that was at the time) couldn't justify $300 processor at this time. Plus the board I wanted with the i7 was expensive also would broke the bank. Went for high end EVERYTHING rather than just high end board and CPU....


I hear you, I almost went for a Black Edition FX but at the end of the day I went for the speed and upgrade path of the i5.

I just busted open my HAF XB to fix a DIMM DERP I did. (Read the instructions, rNs.) So here you go.

Hopefully I did juuuust enough cable management to keep @wthenshaw from *****ting a brick.











Side panel was off so I could get a couple more turns on the mounting bolts. The pump looks like it has good solid contact but I feel like I should be getting temps just a bit lower. Maybe a TIM issue. I did three lines in a star pattern of AS5.

Rad is in Push/Pull with the CM MegaFlow 120s that came with the XB, since the H110 took up their mounting point with it's 140s and I didn't think 120 Push / 140 Pull would be in any way efficient.

The full package inside the case actually caused interference with the top 200mm CM fan. Once I got everything locked in everything cleared but the Fan/Rad stack would interefere with the CM fan and block the top plate from unlocking when I'd slide it back and try to pull it off.

Thus.



I think I'm gonna switch into the Corsair SP120s On it. If I have to keep it like this, then the SP120 and a filter will provide a more finished look on the exterior I think.


----------



## Legendchris99

For the VRAMs I bought 2 of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170955191702

Now I'm not sure what to buy for the VRMs because the VRAMs are much bigger(VRM=6mmx6mm while VRAM around 14mmx12mm).


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RackdNStackd*
> 
> I hear you, I almost went for a Black Edition FX but at the end of the day I went for the speed and upgrade path of the i5.
> 
> I just busted open my HAF XB to fix a DIMM DERP I did. (Read the instructions, rNs.) So here you go.
> 
> Hopefully I did juuuust enough cable management to keep @wthenshaw from *****ting a brick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side panel was off so I could get a couple more turns on the mounting bolts. The pump looks like it has good solid contact but I feel like I should be getting temps just a bit lower. Maybe a TIM issue. I did three lines in a star pattern of AS5.
> 
> Rad is in Push/Pull with the CM MegaFlow 120s that came with the XB, since the H110 took up their mounting point with it's 140s and I didn't think 120 Push / 140 Pull would be in any way efficient.
> 
> The full package inside the case actually caused interference with the top 200mm CM fan. Once I got everything locked in everything cleared but the Fan/Rad stack would interefere with the CM fan and block the top plate from unlocking when I'd slide it back and try to pull it off.
> 
> Thus.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm gonna switch into the Corsair SP120s On it. If I have to keep it like this, then the SP120 and a filter will provide a more finished look on the exterior I think.


Everything looks good nice and clean. I'm going to go with the sp120's all around soon in my case also, i got a bunch of random fans in my case, wanna make it more suit with matching white sp120's and 1 af140 on my side pannel.


----------



## curly haired boy

do you think the kraken will work with the nvidia 800 series?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> do you think the kraken will work with the nvidia 800 series?


Well we'll have to see if they kept the same pattern for the gpu screws. But i'd imagine they did and the Kraken was made for reference cards so....I imagine that it will work. Don't quote me though i haven't been following the 800 series, no point going to be ridiculously over priced for the next couple years.


----------



## King PWNinater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> i used these
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/281325300404?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


How long was delivery?


----------



## pdasterly

Two weeks


----------



## King PWNinater

Just bought 2 NZXT Kraken *X41*s for my 290s. I already have the G10s for them.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Just bought 2 NZXT Kraken *X41*s for my 290s. I already have the G10s for them.


Yeah them X41's look bad a.. make sure you grab that "CAM" program also!


----------



## King PWNinater

What is more important to cover up with heatsinks; the VRAM chips or the VRMs?


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> What is more important to cover up with heatsinks; the VRAM chips or the VRMs?


You need to cover VRM's. Period. VRAM if you want to oc it.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Ya vrms for sure... If you guys are wondering mine was the card that blew the vrm for memory. But i dont think it was do to heat. I had a power surge and it blew right as it happened. Also on a side note the particular vrm that blew was not being cooled with the baseplate with the stock heatsink. Again this was the memory vrm that contolled the 12v into the main vrms. I think it was just a bad fluke not anything to do with my cooling setup. As it wasnt being cooled even with the stock cooler.


----------



## ldewitt

Waiting on custom VRM heatsink gopackersjt is making for me! Looking bad ass! Wondering what thermal tape i should use inbetween the heatsink and vrms once i get the heatsink?


----------



## aqon99

Just wanted to post an experience with my msi gtx780 gaming oc cards with the g10. When i removed the stock heatsink it actually had a middle plate on there cooling the memory and vrm's which i was really pleased about. I fitted a corsair h90 on both g10's because the x40's were out of stock. The midplate didnt need modding and the h90 fitted perfectly. The only problem with the h90's are the tube length which was a bit tricky as it wouldnt stretch to the front of the case.
I dont know whether it has been mentioned but i found the best way to tighten these was to finger tighten them as tight as you can. Then use a screwdriver with about a fifth of a full turn to lock it in place. I tested this twice and seem to make very good contact.
Also the best way to screw the fans to the unit is the opposite way that it tells you in the manual. This way you can remove or change your fans without having to remove the pump unit from the gpu.
All in all very pleased with the results running at 30c and 26c idle and load in heaven is 47c and 38c. This is with a skyn3t modded bios which peaks at 1.212v and stays at a solid 1254 and 1228 on the cards. I have a fan blowing over both cards as well.
hope this helps somebody


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqon99*
> 
> Also the best way to screw the fans to the unit is the opposite way that it tells you in the manual. This way you can remove or change your fans without having to remove the pump unit from the gpu.


Can i have an example of this kinda pissed me off that i had to reseat the GPU pump to put my VRM heatsinks.


----------



## aqon99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Can i have an example of this kinda pissed me off that i had to reseat the GPU pump to put my VRM heatsinks.


Instead of screwing the fans from underneath the unit (i.e. the bit nearest to the card). Screw them in from the other side of the fan, but you will need a thin screwdriver that will fit in the holes of the fan. hope this makes sense


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqon99*
> 
> Instead of screwing the fans from underneath the unit (i.e. the bit nearest to the card). Screw them in from the other side of the fan, but you will need a thin screwdriver that will fit in the holes of the fan. hope this makes sense


Ahhh that makes way more sence now thanks!


----------



## Assyle

is it worth replacing stock g10 fan?









Has someone placed there some noctua fan for exaple?








Did the temperatures on vrams and vrms inproved somehow?









I'm pretty okay with the temps Ive got now. Around 50-60C on VRMs VRAMs area with small heatsinks and stock fan. But I just wonder if it could be even better?


----------



## aqon99

I think the stock fans do a good job , i suppose you could always get better fans. I cant measure my vrm's accurately but have got a probe on the back of my top card , right behind the vrm. Mine tops out at about 73c thats after about 2 hours of heavy gaming.


----------



## maynard14

hi guys

manage to put h105 on my gpu r9 290x with nzxt g10 and vrm ram heatsinks on the vrm1 and 2

temps on the core is very good 56c max but my only problem is the cooling of the vrm 1 it goes to 71c on load temp only

what can i adjust to bring the temp down to 60c?

thank you

heres my set up btw :


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> manage to put h105 on my gpu r9 290x with nzxt g10 and vrm ram heatsinks on the vrm1 and 2
> 
> temps on the core is very good 56c max but my only problem is the cooling of the vrm 1 it goes to 71c on load temp only
> 
> what can i adjust to bring the temp down to 60c?
> 
> thank you
> 
> heres my set up btw :


Not much now I'm afraid. You can try fujiploy beneath the gelid heatsink which should net you about 5 degrees.
Otherwise, you can do an active backplate mod for the EK WC backplate with helipal m2.5 screws. This should net you another 5 degrees by pulling VRM heat to the backplate.
Finally, you can try a more powerful g10 fan. This would increase noise though.


----------



## maynard14

thanks bro but i manage to turn down my vrm temp









heres what i do, i have put thermalpads on the vrm 1 and some heatsinks of the top of the card

from load temp of vrm 1 71c to 63c, i also change my fan settings and radiator


----------



## pdasterly

Dosent get any better than this, water performer 3.0

http://www.frys.com/ads/page29#AdNavi


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Dosent get any better than this, water performer 3.0
> 
> http://www.frys.com/ads/page29#AdNavi


Some reason its not going through.


----------



## pdasterly

http://www.frys.com/product/8054234?site=sa:adpages%20page29_FRI%20date:070414


----------



## ldewitt

Oh yeah can't beat that $30 I'd of went with it ifit was $30 when my h50 was $45.


----------



## kckyle

hey what temps are you guys getting with the h55 on a r9 290. and is there any aio cooler that has extra long tubes? i wanna do crossfire and the space between top of my 800D to the 2nd pcie is a long way down. about a foot i think.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> hey what temps are you guys getting with the h55 on a r9 290. and is there any aio cooler that has extra long tubes? i wanna do crossfire and the space between top of my 800D to the 2nd pcie is a long way down. about a foot i think.


kraken coolers haave longest tubes


----------



## pdasterly

anyone have a better cooling solution for the 290x than the gelid heatsink or mods to help it cool down more?


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> anyone have a better cooling solution for the 290x than the gelid heatsink or mods to help it cool down more?


wait for the corsair hg10?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

ya thats what im waiting for. I love my kraken but the vrm cooling is lacking even with my big ass back side cooler. I think the corsair one will be more elgant. and hopfully cool the vrms good too.


----------



## ldewitt

Thinking about dumping the ol Kraken to go back to the stock cooler until i figure out away of getting better temps on my VRM's I can't get a OC to save my life and i feel my card is throttling back on me. Got below 1000 in Heaven benchmark....which i never got not even with the stock cooler.


----------



## Spectre-

got a h100i on my r9 290

guess not part of this cool group anymore


----------



## gopackersjt

I'll have my G10 on my 290x once it comes in. I ordered a Gelid VRM heatsink for it, and more copper VRAM heatsinks. I'm hoping it will run well.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> I'll have my G10 on my 290x once it comes in. I ordered a Gelid VRM heatsink for it, and more copper VRAM heatsinks. I'm hoping it will run well.


Sweet! When you get that glid kit in could you shoot me some measurements for the VRM heatsink so i can see if it might work for me, debating on putting stock cooler back on.

Or maybe even compare to the one you were trying to make?


----------



## gopackersjt

Ya I can do that. I'm sorry about that heatsink... I'm still pissed about that.....

You might even be able to zip tie it on.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> Ya I can do that. I'm sorry about that heatsink... I'm still pissed about that.....
> 
> You might even be able to zip tie it on.


Its all good man, can't be mad at ya for trying something and wasting your own time and energy on it! But yeah if that heatsink has the right measurements maybe ill, get one of those instead of putting the stock cooler back on.


----------



## King PWNinater

Day 1: I built my first PC
Day 2: Enjoyed ALL THE PC GLORY
Day 3: Installed Kraken g10s (With the all new Kraken X41s.) on my GPUs - PC then hardly works
Day 4: Second day of Hell
Day 5: Third day of Hell
Day 6: Fourth Day of Hell - About to RMA Cards - Tests Cards with stock coolers on - Everything works fine - Third day of Heaven

As soon as BF4 downloads (Again.) , then I finish the Campaign, and then play a sh** load of Premium Multiplayer, I'll try installing the krakens (Again) .


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Day 1: I built my first PC
> Day 2: Enjoyed ALL THE PC GLORY
> Day 3: Installed Kraken g10s (With the all new Kraken X41s.) on my GPUs - PC then hardly works
> Day 4: Second day of Hell
> Day 5: Third day of Hell
> Day 6: Fourth Day of Hell - About to RMA Cards - Tests Cards with stock coolers on - Everything works fine - Third day of Heaven
> 
> As soon as BF4 downloads (Again.) , then I finish the Campaign, and then play a sh** load of Premium Multiplayer, I'll try installing the krakens (Again) .


Ya... G10's are headaches... but once you getting your cooling figured out for VRAM and VRM's, they work pretty well.


----------



## King PWNinater

I did have VRM solutions. I put heatsinks on the VRMS and they were tied down with a cabletie.


----------



## gopackersjt

Did they make contact with the full VRM set? I used copper VRAM heatsinks on my 770 and they worked well with the fan.


----------



## King PWNinater

It wasn't the heatsinks or VRM that was the problem unless somehow the zip ties screwed everything up. I had one with a stock cooler and the other with a Kraken cooler on Day 2 and everything was working fine. however, when I went to install the second Kraken, I re-installed the Kraken on the other one too, but this time with Zip Ties so the Heatsinks wouldn't fall off. I thinks I might've put the cooler on too tight because I did put it on tighter and matched tightness with the other cooler/GPU.


----------



## gopackersjt

You don't want to over tighten. That being said, your core temps will go up once your VRM's are cooled because the card won't be throttled back.


----------



## King PWNinater

Throttle?


----------



## gopackersjt

Yes, when the VRM's heat up, they limit the amount of power getting to the core. Cool them and they allow more power, making the core run faster and slightly warmer.


----------



## i7Stealth1366

I ordered a G10 yesterday with a H55 cooler. Where is the best place to mount the H55 when I have a h105 in the top. My case is a caslabs M8 and I have 6 fans intake in the front, and the H105 exhausting air at the top. Should I put the H55 on the rear as exhaust? I also have an accessory mount which would allow me to mount the radiator in the close to the intake fans?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i7Stealth1366*
> 
> I ordered a G10 yesterday with a H55 cooler. Where is the best place to mount the H55 when I have a h105 in the top. My case is a caslabs M8 and I have 6 fans intake in the front, and the H105 exhausting air at the top. Should I put the H55 on the rear as exhaust? I also have an accessory mount which would allow me to mount the radiator in the close to the intake fans?


I'd mount it as exhaust personally. That's how i have mine.


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I'd mount it as exhaust personally. That's how i have mine.


That is what I thought about doing, just trying to reconfirm my beliefs. +rep


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i7Stealth1366*
> 
> That is what I thought about doing, just trying to reconfirm my beliefs. +rep


Thanks, yeah looking at your case not sure how long it is but looks like you might have a few options where to mount it but, i'd say the exhaust would be the best.


----------



## benfica101

Here is my attempt at cooling 290's in CF, No memory heat-sinks yet still waiting for them to arrive.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benfica101*
> 
> Here is my attempt at cooling 290's in CF, No memory heat-sinks yet still waiting for them to arrive.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good, what version of those SP120's(quiet/high performance) are you using on your H100?


----------



## benfica101

Those are the high performance sp120's, but Ive got them fan controlled


----------



## curly haired boy

what coolers are you using with the kraken g10? the tubes seem a little short.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benfica101*
> 
> Those are the high performance sp120's, but Ive got them fan controlled


Nice yeah i unfortunately bought 3 packs of the silent ones and 1 pack of the high performance ones. The high performance ones will go on my CPU cooler, then the silent ones will be for my GPU cooler and case fans.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> what coolers are you using with the kraken g10? the tubes seem a little short.


I believe they are H55. I know i have the H55 and can't even put it on the front of my Phantom 530. Have to put it rear exhaust.


----------



## curly haired boy

yeah, i might go with the NZXT coolers since they're longer


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> yeah, i might go with the NZXT coolers since they're longer


It's a good decision if the H55 wasn't so cheap i would have gone with the NZXT Kraken x40. Now they have the X41 and X61 series out those look bad a.. also!

Now they even have a X31 i just checked just a 120mm version of the x41. Wow didn't noticed until just looking at there site.

Edit again: wow even come with 6 year warranty. and 16'' tubes NZXT i see climbing to the top of the CLC ladder.


----------



## Voltaire90

Hey everyone! So, this past week I have read through all 71 pages of this club's pages in anticipation of my new build, and figured it is time to post a question of my own.

I have purchased this card:
Click Here

Along with a Kraken G-10 setup for that card and a Corsair H100i.

Naturally, I am worried about my VRM/VRAM and MOSFETs. I will not be overclocking in the near future (though I may in the far future), but the room it will be housed in gets very warm as the computer will be run 12-16 hours a day. So my question is; Will these accessories work with the card? I am unsure of the exact dimensions of the VRM and MOSFETs, but these seem to be somewhat popular according to y'all.

For the MOSFETs
Click Here

For the VRM/VRAM
Click Here

For the MOSFET's heatsinks, I know they may stand too tall, but I don't mind cutting them to size as far as height goes. I am more worried about the dimensions of the chips and if these will fit well with their LxW dimensions.

Also, I have tried to find a blueprint/diagram of the card to find out how many MOSFETs and VRMs there are, so I can go ahead and order, but to no avail. Naturally I could wait until the card gets here, but I don't want to have to wait for it to arrive, and then order the parts as it seems most take 2 weeks to ship.

In summary,
1) How many MOSFET's/VRMs are on the card
2) Will these heatsinks fit the chips
3) Are the sticky pads they come with sufficient, or would you recommend some kind of thermal glue?
4) Difference of VRM and VRAM, since I hear both thrown around, and many google searches have just further confused me since they are contradictory for the most part.

Thanks a bunch guys!


----------



## ldewitt

I would like to know of a thermal glue, non-permanent of course.


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I would like to know of a thermal glue, non-permanent of course.


I had been thinking about THIS but unfortunately it has no reviews, so I am wondering if everyone knows something I don't. Its got a good temp range too.

Edit: I have also heard of people mixing the glue with thermal paste in a 50/50 mix to make it easier to pull off if you were to want to, but I am also unsure of its effectiveness/stability/reliability


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> I had been thinking about THIS but unfortunately it has no reviews, so I am wondering if everyone knows something I don't. Its got a good temp range too.
> 
> Edit: I have also heard of people mixing the glue with thermal paste in a 50/50 mix to make it easier to pull off if you were to want to, but I am also unsure of its effectiveness/stability/reliability


I've heard of that also but not sure on how good the conductivity is.


----------



## gopackersjt

I was able to remove all of my heatsinks when I sold my 770. I just ran a benchmark and twisted them off while the card was still warm.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> Hey everyone! So, this past week I have read through all 71 pages of this club's pages in anticipation of my new build, and figured it is time to post a question of my own.
> 
> I have purchased this card:
> Click Here
> 
> Along with a Kraken G-10 setup for that card and a Corsair H100i.
> 
> Naturally, I am worried about my VRM/VRAM and MOSFETs. I will not be overclocking in the near future (though I may in the far future), but the room it will be housed in gets very warm as the computer will be run 12-16 hours a day. So my question is; Will these accessories work with the card? I am unsure of the exact dimensions of the VRM and MOSFETs, but these seem to be somewhat popular according to y'all.
> 
> For the MOSFETs
> Click Here
> 
> For the VRM/VRAM
> Click Here
> 
> For the MOSFET's heatsinks, I know they may stand too tall, but I don't mind cutting them to size as far as height goes. I am more worried about the dimensions of the chips and if these will fit well with their LxW dimensions.
> 
> Also, I have tried to find a blueprint/diagram of the card to find out how many MOSFETs and VRMs there are, so I can go ahead and order, but to no avail. Naturally I could wait until the card gets here, but I don't want to have to wait for it to arrive, and then order the parts as it seems most take 2 weeks to ship.
> 
> In summary,
> 1) How many MOSFET's/VRMs are on the card
> 2) Will these heatsinks fit the chips
> 3) Are the sticky pads they come with sufficient, or would you recommend some kind of thermal glue?
> 4) Difference of VRM and VRAM, since I hear both thrown around, and many google searches have just further confused me since they are contradictory for the most part.
> 
> Thanks a bunch guys!


I just ordered a few packs of VRAM heat sinks to cover all of the chips, and for my 770 I used the same type (but the brass version) to cover my VRM's. It worked pretty well.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> I was able to remove all of my heatsinks when I sold my 770. I just ran a benchmark and twisted them off while the card was still warm.


Yeah but did you use some kind of thermal glue? The problem i have is that the copperheatsinks all fell off the front of my VRMS. Looking for a better solution to stick them back on. IE: non permanent glue or double sided thermal tape.


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I've heard of that also but not sure on how good the conductivity is.


Well I am less worried about the "sticky situation" as I am about the original questions of LxW, as I can pickup thermal paste from the shop down the road anytime, but not the heatsinks, which I would like to order today or tomorrow. Any ideas? Thanks a billion.


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Yeah but did you use some kind of thermal glue? The problem i have is that the copperheatsinks all fell off the front of my VRMS. Looking for a better solution to stick them back on. IE: non permanent glue or double sided thermal tape.


I used the thermal tape that came on them. You just need to push down a bit to get them to set.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> Well I am less worried about the "sticky situation" as I am about the original questions of LxW, as I can pickup thermal paste from the shop down the road anytime, but not the heatsinks, which I would like to order today or tomorrow. Any ideas? Thanks a billion.


Well to be honest all of us used the second ones you linked .25 x .25 x .5 copper ones
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> I used the thermal tape that came on them. You just need to push down a bit to get them to set.


Good idea I'm gona try that again tonight when i'm putting my new SP120's on!


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

the heatsinks I use are aluminum and stick really nice. Im trying to find the link were I got them. There also black so they fit nice with the overall theme. Although copper would be better at removing heat im sure.
edit:
On another note Im getting anxious to see how corsairs mount will work. Looks like it would solve several issues that the g10 has right now. One beign the vrm temps and two being the way it mounts. To me looks like a guy wont have to worry about over tightening the mount. Looks like it will be like how we mount the stock cooler. You can only tighten them so much before they "bottom out" thus keeping them from over tightening the board.


----------



## fanchiuho

Phew! It took a while for me to chase all these posts before I even dare to say hi here. What a nice thread! Still got a few questions to ask though: So some background info:

I fried my ref. R9 290 on the first try. Everything seems to work well after I mounted it, it even booted into windows at 34 degs C. When I ran watchdogs for a test though, it crashed, got a black screen followed by a smokey smell. Oh ****. Opening it back up, the top left corner of the core literally melted down into grey goo and some of it was stuck like some TIM to the water block when I removed it. TOO. MUCH. PRESSURE.








I thought of it after the epic fail, turns out I have no concept of how tight those screws are supposed to be, and used a screwdriver to tighten the mount. Hand-tightening is just so hard when the caps are so close to the waterblock. The lackluster coat of thick paint on the bracket doesnt help either.

So can someone educate me on how to mount the thing with ease the next time?

I noticed some of you guys have a G10 on a MSI R9 290X gaming. After I fried my ref. 290 in the first mount, I was about to take this as a replacement from the distributor. The model is supposed to have one backplate and a so called 'mid-plate' between the sink and the PCB to cool the VRMs and RAMs, right? Now, instead of worrying about VRM cooling, I'm pretty concerned 'bout the mounting process. So I got 2 plans to approach this:

Plan A: Try modding the G10 backplate to mount.
I wonder how the G10 is compatible with that? Do I also have to remove the black foam on the backplate to allow sufficient screw length to even reach the top screwcaps?









Plan B: Outright drill a larger hole on the backplate and bracket (if needed), then apply screws and hex nuts.
And just in case I need a longer screw for backup, anyone knows what's the screw sizes of the G10? I bought some M3 x30mm/ x40mm screws today just out of a wild guess.


----------



## i7Stealth1366

So I had to cancel my order with Amazon due to them not being able to ship till this time next week. I am looking at ordering a h105 to cool my gtx 780 over getting the h50. I am going to use Aerocool Dead Silence fans either way. Is a h105 overkill for a gtx 780?


----------



## jackalopeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i7Stealth1366*
> 
> So I had to cancel my order with Amazon due to them not being able to ship till this time next week. I am looking at ordering a h105 to cool my gtx 780 over getting the h50. I am going to use Aerocool Dead Silence fans either way. Is a h105 overkill for a gtx 780?


Having used an H105....yes, it's overkill. Temps don't get much better, BUT it will let you run the fans slower and be quieter. Other than that you have to modify/remove the pump cover so you can mount it.


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> Having used an H105....yes, it's overkill. Temps don't get much better, BUT it will let you run the fans slower and be quieter. Other than that you have to modify/remove the pump cover so you can mount it.


Do you have to do that on the h55?


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i7Stealth1366*
> 
> Do you have to do that on the h55?


Nope. I run the kraken g10/h55 setup and it's all good to go right out of the box.


----------



## Blameless

Been considering getting one of these plus an X60 and 30 dollars of memory/VRM sinks for my 290X. Reference cooler is unbelievably obnoxious with the fan profile needed to prevent throttling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fanchiuho*
> 
> Opening it back up, the top left corner of the core literally melted down into grey goo


Silicon doesn't melt until 1414C, so whatever that was, it wasn't the core.


----------



## Cozmo85

Do the vrm/memory plates like the msi 780ti has work well enough to not need vrm and memory cooling?


----------



## fanchiuho

Phew! It took a while for me to chase all these posts before I even dare to say hi here. Still got a few questions to ask:
I noticed a
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Been considering getting one of these plus an X60 and 30 dollars of memory/VRM sinks for my 290X. Reference cooler is unbelievably obnoxious with the fan profile needed to prevent throttling.
> Silicon doesn't melt until 1414C, so whatever that was, it wasn't the core.


Good call.
Then I guess it would be my cracked core leaking in TIM that I applied before mounting. It was terrible anyway. Lifting up the block making a cracking sound as if you're peeling/tearing something, and the whole corner just broke into a hole.
Would never dare to repeat the same mistake again.


----------



## ottoore

Nzxt 40cm, al the others 30cm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> Having used an H105....yes, it's overkill. Temps don't get much better, BUT it will let you run the fans slower and be quieter. Other than that you have to modify/remove the pump cover so you can mount it.


??? i' ve got a corsair h105 on my r9 290 and i do not have any problem...


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fanchiuho*
> 
> Then I guess it would be my cracked core leaking in TIM that I applied before mounting. It was terrible anyway. Lifting up the block making a cracking sound as if you're peeling/tearing something, and the whole corner just broke into a hole.
> Would never dare to repeat the same mistake again.


There is a disclaimer on the G10 specifications page that warns of inconsistent die height on some R9 290 parts and the need for a different set of screws if this is the case.

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html
Quote:


> * Some variation in die thickness and height may cause issues with screws being too short to install on some AMD 290-based cards.
> * Do NOT force the G10 to fit if your card is too thick, contact support for a revised screw set.


----------



## jackalopeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> Nzxt 40cm, al the others 30cm.
> ??? i' ve got a corsair h105 on my r9 290 and i do not have any problem...


Got any pics to show how you've got it mounted, I would like to see them. I promise I'm not being sarcastic, I really would like to see it.


----------



## fanchiuho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> There is a disclaimer on the G10 specifications page that warns of inconsistent die height on some R9 290 parts and the need for a different set of screws if this is the case.
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html


That's a useful piece of information. Although I'm not from the US, I DID bought the bracket as soon as it arrived in stores at my place, which may explain why the screws aren't compatible.

I've just contacted the NZXT re-distributor over my place. They said a common problem with the old brackets is with the thick paint coats on the holes that clamps the screws, and now they're going to send me a new version. They didn't said anything about longer screws.

For anyone that has seen both revisions, is it safe to say that this new version also included the new screws?


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Hello again, thank you to the guys up above for responding to my questions +rep. I have one more question, where all do I need to apply the VRAM heatsinks?



^Are the areas in red?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

@i7Stealth1366
While you really dont need heatsinks on the memory which are the little black 12 squares that go around the gpu you should pu t some on the row of smaller squares that are grey is in color run across the card and the set of 2 below it also. those are your vrms which give powr to the card. hope that makes sense.


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> @i7Stealth1366
> While you really dont need heatsinks on the memory which are the little black 12 squares that go around the gpu you should pu t some on the row of smaller squares that are grey is in color run across the card and the set of 2 below it also. those are your vrms which give powr to the card. hope that makes sense.


So basically everything I have in red?


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i7Stealth1366*
> 
> So basically everything I have in red will be good?


----------



## King PWNinater

No, everything except the 12 around your gpu.


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> No, everything except the 12 around your gpu.


Oh fantastic! I will not need to order anymore sinks then.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i7Stealth1366*
> 
> Oh fantastic! I will not need to order anymore sinks then.


yeah what king said. You dont really need sinks on the vram, it runs pretty cool already. Its the vrms. all about them darn VRMS








edit: oh and make sure to clean them off good (vrms) I used some isporpal alchol and cotton swabs. the sinks will stick much better when those are really clean. Also put and HOLD some presure on them the second part is really important (thats why it in caps)







hold for maybe 30 sec. to a min. then let them be for a few hours before you boot it up so they have time to "stick"


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> yeah what king said. You dont really need sinks on the vram, it runs pretty cool already. Its the vrms. all about them darn VRMS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: oh and make sure to clean them off good (vrms) I used some isporpal alchol and cotton swabs. the sinks will stick much better when those are really clean. Also put and HOLD some presure on them the second part is really important (thats why it in caps)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hold for maybe 30 sec. to a min. then let them be for a few hours before you boot it up so they have time to "stick"


Great. I really appreciate the help.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

no prob, hope it works good for you


----------



## gopackersjt

Well I was hoping I'd be able to show off my updated rig this coming week, but I might not be able to. Either my motherboard or cpu is partially fried :/

I don't know what caused it, but I can't oc for crap, and I can't use the hdmi port on ANY gpus now... I just got a custom loop, and modified my Phantom 410, and I was going to put my G10 on my new 290x once it came in this week, but I can't afford a new cpu at the moment, so I might end up selling everything off... This sucks.... But anyways, I was going to help out some potential G10+290x people, but who knows what I'll do now. I'll keep you guys updated I guess.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> Well I was hoping I'd be able to show off my updated rig this coming week, but I might not be able to. Either my motherboard or cpu is partially fried :/
> 
> I don't know what caused it, but I can't oc for crap, and I can't use the hdmi port on ANY gpus now... I just got a custom loop, and modified my Phantom 410, and I was going to put my G10 on my new 290x once it came in this week, but I can't afford a new cpu at the moment, so I might end up selling everything off... This sucks.... But anyways, I was going to help out some potential G10+290x people, but who knows what I'll do now. I'll keep you guys updated I guess.


Not going to lie unless you were heavily over clocking your CPU, it's gota be the motherboard that fired on you. CPU's are pretty damn tough. Anyways hope everything turns back around for you! Hate seeing people sell off there rigs that they put so much time and money into....Find a cheap intel mobo (or maybe a friend has one) i've been trying to find another cheaper AM3+ motherboard for my fx 8120 i thought i had one but it went for to much so i said f..k it.

PS: i know nothing about intel, so don't hold me to any sort of knowledge but here's a cheap board selling here on OCN:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1500610/asus-p8z68-v-le-1155-socket-motherboard

I mean it's no bad ass one but it could be a stepping stone to getting you back on the road of gaming, and to know whether its the MOBO or CPU.


----------



## gopackersjt

I had my cpu at 5ghz, but under the safe zone voltage for sandy bridge. It also never went over 68C°. I updated by bios, and I'm wondering if something went bad during the flash. Sandy Bridge is safe (according to Intel) in to 1.5v, my mobos vrms capped out at 1.480v.... I'm rma'ing the board, we'll see what happens.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> I had my cpu at 5ghz, but under the safe zone voltage for sandy bridge. It also never went over 68C°. I updated by bios, and I'm wondering if something went bad during the flash. Sandy Bridge is safe (according to Intel) in to 1.5v, my mobos vrms capped out at 1.480v.... I'm rma'ing the board, we'll see what happens.


Awesome wasn't sure if you were still under warranty but that's great!


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i7Stealth1366*
> 
> ^Are the areas in red?


The grey objects are chokes. You don't want to sink the chokes, you want to sink the MOSFETS, which are the square black chips next to the chokes.

Sinking chokes is mostly pointless because the covers on them are largely thermally decoupled from the actual choke. You can cool a choke better by sinking the parts around them or the back of the PCB than by sticking a sink directly on one.


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> The grey objects are chokes. You don't want to sink the chokes, you want to sink the MOSFETS, which are the square black chips next to the chokes.
> 
> Sinking chokes is mostly pointless because the covers on them are largely thermally decoupled from the actual choke. You can cool a choke better by sinking the parts around them or the back of the PCB than by sticking a sink directly on one.


So I need to sink the smaller black chips? These are the VRMs correct?


----------



## King PWNinater

I ultraclocked my gpu last night. Today while gaming, my pc just randomly shuts off and wouldn't start up right. Turns out, the heatsinks feel off the vrms overnight even though I secured them with zipties. With the heatsinks my vrm temp was 100 degrees, but without is usually +12 degrees. Even though NZXT isn't to blame for this, I'm not buying anymore of their products


----------



## pdasterly

Amen to that, the nzxt leaves alot to be desired, ended up buying real water system but I need addition 500 in parts to complete. Going to wait for corsair hg10 and if testings shows no major inprovement in vrm temps then I have no choice but to complete water cooling system.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> I ultraclocked my gpu last night. Today while gaming, my pc just randomly shuts off and wouldn't start up right. Turns out, the heatsinks feel off the vrms overnight even though I secured them with zipties. With the heatsinks my vrm temp was 100 degrees, but without is usually +12 degrees. Even though NZXT isn't to blame for this, I'm not buying anymore of their products


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> I ultraclocked my gpu last night. Today while gaming, my pc just randomly shuts off and wouldn't start up right. Turns out, the heatsinks feel off the vrms overnight even though I secured them with zipties. With the heatsinks my vrm temp was 100 degrees, but without is usually +12 degrees. Even though NZXT isn't to blame for this, I'm not buying anymore of their products


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Amen to that, the nzxt leaves alot to be desired, ended up buying real water system but I need addition 500 in parts to complete. Going to wait for corsair hg10 and if testings shows no major inprovement in vrm temps then I have no choice but to complete water cooling system.


Lots of hate for this product, did you clean the VRMs before trying to stick the heat-sinks to the VRMs? How would you secure them with zip ties??


----------



## pdasterly

I use gelid kit, its mounted with screws, used fujipoly extreme under heatsink and to back of card, added heatkiller backplate and upgraded fan to zalman shark fin fan


----------



## oldcompgeek

Hey there Kraken guru's! I have just purchased one and am incorporating it into the final component installations in my White rig... Currently have a GRone but since I bought it on sale while secretly wanting the White 760T Corsair, I am planning what finishing touches that I will make when making the case swap. Currently have an AMD FX-9370 (960T installed), Sapphire R9 270X 4GB ( Sapphire 7850 2gb installed), Swiftech H320 cpu cooler (Arctic A11 installed), White Recon, Cougar Hyd bearing blue LED 140 fans to replace stock ones, hauppage tuner, 2 more sticks of white Fury 1866 ram, and still need to figure out what type of single fan 120 or 140mm clc to use with the kraken to mount at the rear of the case (and any tips on how to best utilize it) I do work in a foundry with a metal shop and we do have white powder coating (among other colors) so making parts is fairly easy. Any of y'all that could direct me would be a plus! I use a Gigabyte UD7 R.3 mobo and an Antec ECO-NEO 520 PS (need to figure out which model/make to upgrade to when making the switch).

Thanks!

oldcompgeek


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Hey there oldcompgeek and welcome. Well If it were me I would go with the cheapest cooler you can get. Since your runnning 7850 those wont be hard to cool at all. I would go with 120mm rad size. My corsair h50 cooled my 780 really well consdering the size and heat output of my 780. Good luck!
edit: also with out looking at your case specs I would mount it on the rear exhuast that seems the most efficant way to run it for me.


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> Hey there Kraken guru's! I have just purchased one and am incorporating it into the final component installations in my White rig... Currently have a GRone but since I bought it on sale while secretly wanting the White 760T Corsair, I am planning what finishing touches that I will make when making the case swap. Currently have an AMD FX-9370 (960T installed), Sapphire R9 270X 4GB ( Sapphire 7850 2gb installed), Swiftech H320 cpu cooler (Arctic A11 installed), White Recon, Cougar Hyd bearing blue LED 140 fans to replace stock ones, hauppage tuner, 2 more sticks of white Fury 1866 ram, and still need to figure out what type of single fan 120 or 140mm clc to use with the kraken to mount at the rear of the case (and any tips on how to best utilize it) I do work in a foundry with a metal shop and we do have white powder coating (among other colors) so making parts is fairly easy. Any of y'all that could direct me would be a plus! I use a Gigabyte UD7 R.3 mobo and an Antec ECO-NEO 520 PS (need to figure out which model/make to upgrade to when making the switch).
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> oldcompgeek


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Hey there oldcompgeek and welcome. Well If it were me I would go with the cheapest cooler you can get. Since your runnning 7850 those wont be hard to cool at all. I would go with 120mm rad size. My corsair h50 cooled my 780 really well consdering the size and heat output of my 780. Good luck!
> edit: also with out looking at your case specs I would mount it on the rear exhuast that seems the most efficant way to run it for me.


Agreed, rear exhaust would be the way to go.

Has anyone ordered Heatsinks from modDIY? I ordered them on the 15th and they said they were shipped on the 16th. I have not received them yet...


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> Hey there Kraken guru's! I have just purchased one and am incorporating it into the final component installations in my White rig... Currently have a GRone but since I bought it on sale while secretly wanting the White 760T Corsair, I am planning what finishing touches that I will make when making the case swap. Currently have an AMD FX-9370 (960T installed), Sapphire R9 270X 4GB ( Sapphire 7850 2gb installed), Swiftech H320 cpu cooler (Arctic A11 installed), White Recon, Cougar Hyd bearing blue LED 140 fans to replace stock ones, hauppage tuner, 2 more sticks of white Fury 1866 ram, and still need to figure out what type of single fan 120 or 140mm clc to use with the kraken to mount at the rear of the case (and any tips on how to best utilize it) I do work in a foundry with a metal shop and we do have white powder coating (among other colors) so making parts is fairly easy. Any of y'all that could direct me would be a plus! I use a Gigabyte UD7 R.3 mobo and an Antec ECO-NEO 520 PS (need to figure out which model/make to upgrade to when making the switch).
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> oldcompgeek


Yeah i'd just go with a H55 or similar. I have changed my setup around and mounted my H55 to the bottom of my case; Just upgraded all my fans to SP120's.


----------



## gopackersjt

H55 is what you want. Anything more, and you're just wasting your money.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> H55 is what you want. Anything more, and you're just wasting your money.


edit


----------



## oldcompgeek

sorry- net freezing. thanks for the advice!


----------



## Tyrael

Hey guys I have a question.

I am using the G10 with a Corsair H55 on my Powercolor 290x. I wanted to build up a watercooling system, which cools CPU + GPU.

Which of the watercooling AIO solutions can i use to connect it on another watercooling system?
I didnt found any round cooling head tof a non aio solution that fits on the g10. Can anyone give me an advice which cooling head fits on the g10 of the non aio solutions?

Kind regards

Tyrael


----------



## Cozmo85

If your card has a midplate (like the twin frozr 780ti) do you need extra vrm/ram cooling? Also h55 is enough for a 780ti?


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrael*
> 
> Hey guys I have a question.
> 
> I am using the G10 with a Corsair H55 on my Powercolor 290x. I wanted to build up a watercooling system, which cools CPU + GPU.
> 
> Which of the watercooling AIO solutions can i use to connect it on another watercooling system?
> I didnt found any round cooling head tof a non aio solution that fits on the g10. Can anyone give me an advice which cooling head fits on the g10 of the non aio solutions?
> 
> Kind regards
> 
> Tyrael


The only AIO solution I know of that you can add on to is the Swiftech h220. And there is no way the block will fit onto the GPU because it's square.

If you want to cool the GPU in a water cooled system, you are going to have to get a black for it.

NZXT Kraken G10 Compatibility list


----------



## Cozmo85

Ordered a g10 and an H55 for my 780ti. From what it seems nvidia cards are pretty much cake with these?


----------



## gopackersjt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Ordered a g10 and an H55 for my 780ti. From what it seems nvidia cards are pretty much cake with these?


As someone who just switched from a 770 to a 290x, the installation is defiantly easier on an nvidia card. Build quality is usually higher to, leading to fewer headaches. I've had a g10 for like 4 months now, and while I like it, it can be a labor of love...


----------



## Tyrael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Ordered a g10 and an H55 for my 780ti. From what it seems nvidia cards are pretty much cake with these?


I want to inform you that the cable of the H55 are very short. I wanted to fix the radiator at the front, but I had to fix it at the back of my Enthoo Primo.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrael*
> 
> I want to inform you that the cable of the H55 are very short. I wanted to fix the radiator at the front, but I had to fix it at the back of my Enthoo Primo.


Thanks. I already have an h100i in the front so I'm gonna have this in the back.


----------



## Cozmo85

VRM temps should always go up with gpu load correct? Im planning on having my h55 and vrm fans controlled by motherboard headers. Asus allows a temp probe installed and you can do fan curves off it. Would it be best to stick it on the VRM's or on the back of pcb behind the gpu.


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> VRM temps should always go up with gpu load correct? Im planning on having my h55 and vrm fans controlled by motherboard headers. Asus allows a temp probe installed and you can do fan curves off it. Would it be best to stick it on the VRM's or on the back of pcb behind the gpu.


That is correct. You should stick the temp probe as close to the VRMs as you can. I'm going to do the same thing since the Crosshair doesn't have built in monitors -_-

Weird that the Sabertooth does but the Crosshair doesn't....


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v3n0m90*
> 
> Weird that the Sabertooth does but the Crosshair doesn't....


Love my Sabertooth


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v3n0m90*
> 
> That is correct. You should stick the temp probe as close to the VRMs as you can. I'm going to do the same thing since the Crosshair doesn't have built in monitors -_-
> 
> Weird that the Sabertooth does but the Crosshair doesn't....


Thanks, the MSI card i have has a midplate so hopefully i can sandwich it in there.


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Love my Sabertooth


I considered it but I didn't like the color scheme of it. I'm a nerd for asthetics


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Thanks, the MSI card i have has a midplate so hopefully i can sandwich it in there.


This probe is pretty small. Shouldn't have too much trouble getting it in there.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v3n0m90*
> 
> This probe is pretty small. Shouldn't have too much trouble getting it in there.


Already got this one coming



Looks small and flat so should fit well i think


----------



## derfer

Just did mine the other day. 780 Ti with H90. Really was a pain cutting little 6.5x6.5mm bits of thermal tape for those vrm sinks. They just barely fit under the bracket. Used an eraser to degrease the vrm and vram.




Results are crazy though. 53C max in Crysis 3 at 1300mhz 1.212v with one measly 750rpm fan. Just imagine with two, or anything at a more reasonable rpm.


----------



## Cozmo85

How tight should i make it on my 780ti? Just barely snug it down?


----------



## shwarz

those that have used a backplate with the kraken g10 what backplate have you used and how have u modded it to fit

my r290 has a nasty bend developing and its making me worried


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shwarz*
> 
> those that have used a backplate with the kraken g10 what backplate have you used and how have u modded it to fit
> 
> my r290 has a nasty bend developing and its making me worried


I have a backplate on my 280x. I had to get a set of the longer screws from NZXT and I also removed the foam pad that is on the bottom of the piece that goes on the top of the GPU. Fit on there fine after all that. Was a little bit of a pain to get on but that's just because I needed a third hand.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Just did mine the other day. 780 Ti with H90. Really was a pain cutting little 6.5x6.5mm bits of thermal tape for those vrm sinks. They just barely fit under the bracket. Used an eraser to degrease the vrm and vram.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Results are crazy though. 53C max in Crysis 3 at 1300mhz 1.212v with one measly 750rpm fan. Just imagine with two, or anything at a more reasonable rpm.


Looks really good with those black VRM heatsinks, what kind of thermal tape did you use to stick those vrm sinks on? Good idea on using eraser wish i would of done that with mine maybe my heatsinks would of stuck a little better.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Anybody have a first gen Corsair H50?

I think mine is first gen. The first page says it's not supported









Can anybody confirm the compatibility of a first gen H50?

My G10 should be here any minute now, I can't return it according to NCIX.


----------



## Vendari

perhaps the 1st gen h50 just need longer screws? I have an H55, and it needs longer screws. maybe it's the same?


----------



## Cozmo85

Installed.

Still need to put the other push pull fan on the h55 but so far so good. valley benchmark @ 1230 is around 62degrees looping. VRM temps from my tsensor are showing ~80C. Using aisuite 3 was able to do my fan curves based on VRM temp.

Is 80C ok for VRM on a 780ti? Whats the limit?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Anyone know how to get VRM temp on a GTX 670 with a reference GTX 680 PCB?

The back side of my GPU maxes out at 75C according to my digital thermometer. I have no heatsinks but got fans blowing at it.

Btw its a 1st gen H50. I had to take it apart to put the bracket in there.


----------



## Cozmo85

Man, this thing is amazing. Bumped mv up +75 and im hitting 1291 now on my msi 780ti. VRM @ 70C from my temp probe. Temps at 52c


----------



## Gwau

Hi guys, I've been looking around Google but I could not find an answer for this. I currently have a corsair h70 that I'm not using and I would like to get the NZXT G10.
Although the H70 is not listed as a compatible watercooler on NZXT's page, the cooler looks very similar to the coolers of H50.55.75.etc. I'm wondering if anyone paired his H70 with the G10 or if it is possible at all. I'm also trying to use the G10 on my Zotac Gtx 770. I know the 770 is supported but it seems like some models are not(?). Can anyone confirm that the G10 will work with my GPU? Thank you.

I'm really new to overclock.net and I'm not familiar with posting threads/replying. Sorry if this was the wrong way.


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Looks really good with those black VRM heatsinks, what kind of thermal tape did you use to stick those vrm sinks on? Good idea on using eraser wish i would of done that with mine maybe my heatsinks would of stuck a little better.


It's Sekisui thermal tape. You can get it on ebay. I don't know if it's still the go to tape but 4 years ago when I got a ton of it it was all the rage for being so thin so it had pretty good heat transfer.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> It's Sekisui thermal tape. You can get it on ebay. I don't know if it's still the go to tape but 4 years ago when I got a ton of it it was all the rage for being so thin so it had pretty good heat transfer.


Does it come off if needed?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gwau*
> 
> Hi guys, I've been looking around Google but I could not find an answer for this. I currently have a corsair h70 that I'm not using and I would like to get the NZXT G10.
> Although the H70 is not listed as a compatible watercooler on NZXT's page, the cooler looks very similar to the coolers of H50.55.75.etc. I'm wondering if anyone paired his H70 with the G10 or if it is possible at all. I'm also trying to use the G10 on my Zotac Gtx 770. I know the 770 is supported but it seems like some models are not(?). Can anyone confirm that the G10 will work with my GPU? Thank you.
> 
> I'm really new to overclock.net and I'm not familiar with posting threads/replying. Sorry if this was the wrong way.


welcome gwau!. I believe the h70 will work but the hoses are pretty short so that may be a prob. It may have to mount on the rear exhaust. and as far as the 770. as long as its a reference pcb it will fit.
hope I helped


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Does it come off if needed?


Yeah. Make sure the surface of the chips is very clean though. I had to go back over the smaller vrm chips twice to get them cleaned enough for a good stick.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> welcome gwau!. I believe the h70 will work but the hoses are pretty short so that may be a prob. It may have to mount on the rear exhaust. and as far as the 770. as long as its a reference pcb it will fit.
> hope I helped


If you have top exhaust fans you can mount it as a rear intake like i did. So you still get fresh outside air.


----------



## Penn43

Hey All, new owner to the Kraken g10 here. I have a strange problem, really stumped on what to do. Hoping to get some help.

I have mounted the g10 on my AMD Gigabyte r290, bit fiddly but things worked out in the end. Now to the issue, my computer keep showing signs of overheating when running graphic intense programs (artifacts, and eventually crashes) _but_ when looking at the temperatures in both Catalyst Control Center and GPU-Z everything looks fine. Usally gpu temp around 40-45C and VRM around 35-55C. PSU shouldnt be an issue, card was working fine with the stock cooler, the problem came after the G10 installation.

Any ideas?

Thanks

/M


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penn43*
> 
> Hey All, new owner to the Kraken g10 here. I have a strange problem, really stumped on what to do. Hoping to get some help.
> 
> I have mounted the g10 on my AMD Gigabyte r290, bit fiddly but things worked out in the end. Now to the issue, my computer keep showing signs of overheating when running graphic intense programs (artifacts, and eventually crashes) _but_ when looking at the temperatures in both Catalyst Control Center and GPU-Z everything looks fine. Usally gpu temp around 40-45C and VRM around 35-55C. PSU shouldnt be an issue, card was working fine with the stock cooler, the problem came after the G10 installation.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> /M


Are you OCing the GPU?

Double check everything is plugged in properly and make sure the pump is getting constant full 12v.


----------



## Penn43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Are you OCing the GPU?
> 
> Double check everything is plugged in properly and make sure the pump is getting constant full 12v.


Thanks for the reply, everything should be connected correctly. Pump directly to 12v with no throttling or fan control. The card is oc'd by default. It's the gigaby r290 OC version. What i find really wierd is the the temps looked fine, but still it kept giving me issues. I am now back on the windforce cooler that came with the card just to make sure the card itself wasn't damaged. I am seeing higher temps than with the G10 but the card is stable. Could there be some circuitry that's overheating that doesn't show in GPU-Z?

/M


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penn43*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, everything should be connected correctly. Pump directly to 12v with no throttling or fan control. The card is oc'd by default. It's the gigaby r290 OC version. What i find really wierd is the the temps looked fine, but still it kept giving me issues. I am now back on the windforce cooler that came with the card just to make sure the card itself wasn't damaged. I am seeing higher temps than with the G10 but the card is stable. Could there be some circuitry that's overheating that doesn't show in GPU-Z?
> 
> /M


did you have any supplimental vrm/vram heatsinks on with the G10?


----------



## Penn43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> did you have any supplimental vrm/vram heatsinks on with the G10?


No extra heatsinks on, was hoping that I would be able to see if I needed them by looking on the vrm temps in GPU-Z. The temps on the VRM was hovering around 50-60C when the freezes started to occur.


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penn43*
> 
> No extra heatsinks on, was hoping that I would be able to see if I needed them by looking on the vrm temps in GPU-Z. The temps on the VRM was hovering around 50-60C when the freezes started to occur.


There's a lot of vrms on that card, might not all be reported.


----------



## i7Stealth1366

Are you not supposed to connect the pump to the motherboard PWM fan header?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Yeah. Make sure the surface of the chips is very clean though. I had to go back over the smaller vrm chips twice to get them cleaned enough for a good stick.


Good call ordered some off eBay today and I'll clean them with alcohol before sticking them.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> How tight should i make it on my 780ti? Just barely snug it down?


You should be able to get level with the GPU die to ensure it sits evenly on the GPU. It may seem its not tight but it only has to be giving an even contact on the GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gwau*
> 
> Hi guys, I've been looking around Google but I could not find an answer for this. I currently have a corsair h70 that I'm not using and I would like to get the NZXT G10.
> Although the H70 is not listed as a compatible watercooler on NZXT's page, the cooler looks very similar to the coolers of H50.55.75.etc. I'm wondering if anyone paired his H70 with the G10 or if it is possible at all. I'm also trying to use the G10 on my Zotac Gtx 770. I know the 770 is supported but it seems like some models are not(?). Can anyone confirm that the G10 will work with my GPU? Thank you.
> 
> I'm really new to overclock.net and I'm not familiar with posting threads/replying. Sorry if this was the wrong way.


Although I don't know specifically if your card can be done, most people have been guessing and trying by the reference screw pattern if it looks like the same as the reference card you should be good to go. The h70 looks like it should work since it looks like an asustek style pump with teeth, I'm sure someone in this thread has used/tryed an h70.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i7Stealth1366*
> 
> Are you not supposed to connect the pump to the motherboard PWM fan header?


Yeah that's fine, all my fan headers are 4-pin PWM and mine work just fine. I have both the fan on the g10 and pump on my h50 plugged into my case fan headers.


----------



## pdasterly

I run [email protected] % to power supply and the fans can be controlled by software on mobo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Yeah that's fine, all my fan headers are 4-pin PWM and mine work just fine. I have both the fan on the g10 and pump on my h50 plugged into my case fan headers.


----------



## MEC-777

If the AIO you're using does not have a variable speed pump, then you need to run it at constant 100% 12v. The fans can be controlled however you want.

Most of the AIO's compatible with the G10 do not have variable speed pumps.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> I run [email protected] % to power supply and the fans can be controlled by software on mobo


That's fine you do that, but does your motherboard read the temps of your VRM? Because if it can't kinda useless to try to control the fan on your kraken g10. just wondering?


----------



## pdasterly

I run vrm fan at 100% also, maximus vi hero mobo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> That's fine you do that, but does your motherboard read the temps of your VRM? Because if it can't kinda useless to try to control the fan on your kraken g10. just wondering?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> I run vrm fan at 100% also, maximus vi hero mobo


Ah good point same with me. H50 Pump/ Kraken g10 Fan both at 100%.


----------



## pdasterly

Actually swapped fan for zalman shark fin. Its silent even at full tilt, h75
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Ah good point same with me. H50 Pump/ Kraken g10 Fan both at 100%.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> That's fine you do that, but does your motherboard read the temps of your VRM? Because if it can't kinda useless to try to control the fan on your kraken g10. just wondering?


My vii hero has a temp probe header. Took a temp probe, put it on VRM. set fan to adjust based on temp from probe.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> My vii hero has a temp probe header. Took a temp probe, put it on VRM. set fan to adjust based on temp from probe.


That's pretty cool.


----------



## King PWNinater

Anyone want to buy a used Kraken X41?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Anyone want to buy a used Kraken X41?


Pm'd


----------



## aqon99

Just wanted to ask you chaps about vrm temps.
Im running both my cards on g10's at 1267 on the core with 1.238v skyn3t bios. I have placed a probe on the back of the top card right where the vrm's sit. The top card maxes out at 53c on the core and 81c on the vrm probe temp.
Is this fine for everyday gaming. I dont get any lockups or reboots, just wondered what your thoughts are.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqon99*
> 
> Just wanted to ask you chaps about vrm temps.
> Im running both my cards on g10's at 1267 on the core with 1.238v skyn3t bios. I have placed a probe on the back of the top card right where the vrm's sit. The top card maxes out at 53c on the core and 81c on the vrm probe temp.
> Is this fine for everyday gaming. I dont get any lockups or reboots, just wondered what your thoughts are.


My MSI 780ti vrm seems to run cooler with the g10. That being said the MSI cards vrm is not cooled by the primary heatsink but by a midplate that stays put with the g10


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Anyone want to buy a used Kraken X41?


I passed on this since i don't have many mounting options for a 140mm rad, and corsair doesn't make sp140's to match the fans i have.

Up for grabs still, PM "King PWNinater" or he's putting it on ebay....he's giving a smoking deal just PM him.


----------



## Vendari

isnt the Kraken X41 a 120mm rad aio?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> isnt the Kraken X41 a 120mm rad aio?


NZXT websites states 140mm i thought the same...
http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/145-kraken-x41-liquid-cooler.html


----------



## Cozmo85

Their new X31 is 120mm


----------



## MEC-777

This was a very tedious, yet fun install...







Gigabyte was nice enough to have already installed a very nice, robust heatsink for the VRMs on this 7950. Works really well with the fan on the G10 bracket. Temps are ~20* cooler, even with overclocking from 1000-1150 on the GPU and 1250-1450 on the memory. Ran Crysis 3 for a good 30-45mins and the GPU sat at no more than 53* the whole time. Awesome.


----------



## curly haired boy

interesting, you stacked the rads....


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> interesting, you stacked the rads....


Yep. Works really well with the CPU rad in front and GPU rad behind.


----------



## curly haired boy

good strategy for a compact build


----------



## derfer

I just used the stock sony pads that came on my ram sinks to save time and one of them fell off after a few days. Guess I'll have to switch all those over to tape.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> I just used the stock sony pads that came on my ram sinks to save time and one of them fell off after a few days. Guess I'll have to switch all those over to tape.


I just bought some of these for my VRM heatsinks:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271530851540?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

As recommended by someone else using it.


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I just bought some of these for my VRM heatsinks:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/271530851540?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> As recommended by someone else using it.


Yeah, that was me that recommend it haha. I just got impatient after doing the tape on the vrm sinks and decided the stock sony stuff would be good enough for the ram, but turns out it wasn't.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Yeah, that was me that recommend it haha. I just got impatient after doing the tape on the vrm sinks and decided the stock sony stuff would be good enough for the ram, but turns out it wasn't.


Ahaha shows my attention span! Yeah so the double sided tape did work then? I'm going to do it tonight if it does...


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Ahaha shows my attention span! Yeah so the double sided tape did work then? I'm going to do it tonight if it does...


The vrms have stayed on. Haven't tried it on the ram yet but with that surface area it should hold fine. I pressed down on them over and over to make sure they had good contact.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> The vrms have stayed on. Haven't tried it on the ram yet but with that surface area it should hold fine. I pressed down on them over and over to make sure they had good contact.


Yeah i haven't had an issue with attaching to my VRAM since it has a good amount of space to mount. I forgot to clean the VRM's while sticking the double sided tape on, i got them all on put the system back together and before i could power my rig on one fell off so i took it all apart stuck that VRM heatsink back on now i have a small box(about the length of the heatsinks all together) and a bottle of screen cleaner on that for weight so there's pressure on it and its been like that all night and will be until i get out of work today hopefully they will have settled on the VRMS and ill be able to put it back together otherwise ill take them all off again and clean what needs to be with alcohol and try sticking them again.


----------



## Cozmo85

You should get better vrm temps with the g10 on an MSI card than the factory heatsink.


----------



## Bang78

hello aqon99
so what you saying is i could of left the plate on. i haven't a clue what you mean when you say modded bios and overvolted i am new to pc gaming and have been looking at youtube videos for advice . i only joined this site a couple of hours ago after wasting time watching vids thought it would be better to actual speak to people. did u have a look at my rig any advice how to make it better ? cheers


----------



## Bang78

i have ordered this should i cancel them and stick with the plate

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Copper-Memory-Chipset-Heatsinks-Thermal/dp/B00KBMB76I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1406828971&sr=1-1&keywords=heatsink+vga+ram

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aluminum-Chips-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00GTH9ZK4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1406828971&sr=1-2&keywords=heatsink+vga+ram

cheers


----------



## aqon99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bang78*
> 
> hello aqon99
> so what you saying is i could of left the plate on. i haven't a clue what you mean when you say modded bios and overvolted i am new to pc gaming and have been looking at youtube videos for advice . i only joined this site a couple of hours ago after wasting time watching vids thought it would be better to actual speak to people. did u have a look at my rig any advice how to make it better ? cheers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bang78*
> 
> hello aqon99
> so what you saying is i could of left the plate on. i haven't a clue what you mean when you say modded bios and overvolted i am new to pc gaming and have been looking at youtube videos for advice . i only joined this site a couple of hours ago after wasting time watching vids thought it would be better to actual speak to people. did u have a look at my rig any advice how to make it better ? cheers


If it was me i would have left the midplate on, as the g10 will fit onto your gpu no problem. If you are going to fix the midplate back on make sure the thermal pads are still on there before you do. Doesnt matter about the bios and overvolt comment it was just an example to say that the midplate is sufficient cooling. If i can give you a bit of advice about fixing the g10 on is finger tighten the bolts as tight as you possibly can with your fingers and use about a 1/5 of a turn with the screwdriver to lock it in place. hope this helps


----------



## Bang78

thanks going to cancel order of heatsinks. when i put the g10 together i bent the card a bit then released the screws to straighten the card again thanks again:thumb:


----------



## MEC-777

I had to use a screw driver to tighten a few of the screws a little more. There's barely enough room for me to get my fat fingers in there to begin with. lol. Was careful not to bend the card though.


----------



## Bang78

Tell me about it got to make mine apart again to put midplate back on.


----------



## ldewitt

Ah that's no biggie once you've done it multiple times you get comfortable with it lol I've taken mine apart atleast 10 times. I've pretty much got it handled now hopefully tonight will be the last time i'll have to do it in a while.

At first i had a slight bend in my card, that was because i had tightened it to hard. With the kraken g10 you have to watch to see when the cooler is even and then stop tightening, i don't use a screw driver anymore it's easier to do now that i've done it so many times.


----------



## aqon99

You'll be fine , just take your time. When you have an idle temp roughly between 22c-27c you have good contact.


----------



## Bang78

waitng for my nzxt sentry mesh fan controller that's when i will re fit the plate to gpu . At the moment msi after burner saying 29c . when plate fitted i i wlll carry on playing watchdogs with cooler temps


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqon99*
> 
> You'll be fine , just take your time. When you have an idle temp roughly between 22c-27c you have good contact.


Depends on your ambient room temp. Mine idles at about 35*C and when under full load with overclocking it never goes past 53*, so I know it has good contact.







Before it used to hit 75* or more and made a ton of noise. lol.


----------



## sweenytodd

Does anyone know if the G10 braket will fit in the Asus GTX 780 Ti DirectCU II?



Also do I need heatsinks for the RAM chips? Thanks.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Does anyone know if the G10 braket will fit in the Asus GTX 780 Ti DirectCU II?
> 
> Also do I need heatsinks for the RAM chips? Thanks.


http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html

Click on Specs and check the compatibility list. I believe the 780Ti is there.









IMO, you don't need ram heatsinks (I'm not using any), but you may want to add heatsinks on VRMs as they get a lot hotter.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html
> 
> Click on Specs and check the compatibility list. I believe the 780Ti is there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO, you don't need ram heatsinks (I'm not using any), but you may want to add heatsinks on VRMs as they get a lot hotter.


The DirectCU II 780 Ti is a non-reference PCB and I've already check on the website for compatibility and it doesn't know about the DirectCU II. By the way the card has already heatsink on its VRMs.


----------



## Bang78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqon99*
> 
> If it was me i would have left the midplate on, as the g10 will fit onto your gpu no problem. If you are going to fix the midplate back on make sure the thermal pads are still on there before you do. Doesnt matter about the bios and overvolt comment it was just an example to say that the midplate is sufficient cooling. If i can give you a bit of advice about fixing the g10 on is finger tighten the bolts as tight as you possibly can with your fingers and use about a 1/5 of a turn with the screwdriver to lock it in place. hope this helps


i have a msi gtx 780ti when i took stock cooler of there was a mid plate with thermal tape on which i never put back on . i was going to put heat sinks on v ram but a fellow member advised me to put the mid plate back on as quote above . 

here is a image of mid plate


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> The DirectCU II 780 Ti is a non-reference PCB and I've already check on the website for compatibility and it doesn't know about the DirectCU II. By the ram the card has already heatsink on its VRMs.


I'd love to know all of this as well. I've got the DCUII 780Ti and want to put a G10 with H75 on it and want to know how it fits and whether we need additional VRAM or VRM modding.


----------



## Bang78

have u tried looking on youtube ?


----------



## PCGameFan

Nothing on the tube.


----------



## sweenytodd

I just finished chatting with a NZXT rep, he said that the G10 is not compatible with the GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5. Will you believe this?



I saw in ROG forums that a guy put G10s in his Non-reference Asus GTX 770 DirectCU II cards. http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44704-Kraken-G10-X-2


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> I just finished chatting with a NZXT rep, he said that the G10 is not compatible with the GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5. Will you believe this?
> 
> 
> 
> I saw in ROG forums that a guy put G10s in his Non-reference Asus GTX 770 DirectCU II cards. http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44704-Kraken-G10-X-2


Has anyone tried it yet? I'm sure they are required to say that for all non-reference cards.


----------



## Bang78

my gpu is msi gtx 780 ti is that a non reference card


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> The DirectCU II 780 Ti is a non-reference PCB and I've already check on the website for compatibility and it doesn't know about the DirectCU II. By the way the card has already heatsink on its VRMs.


Well, the only things you need to worry about is if it has a back plate as that could require longer bolts. Other than that, I would guess it should fit. Unless they changed the dimensions of the mounting holes around the GPU...

Nice VRM heatsink. All GPUs should come with something like that. My 7950 has it too. Works really well with the fan on the G10.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bang78*
> 
> my gpu is msi gtx 780 ti is that a non reference card


Your card has a "non-reference cooler" and a reference/original PCB. We are talking about non-reference PCB's


----------



## Bang78

shows what i know .


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Your card has a "non-reference cooler" and a reference/original PCB. We are talking about non-reference PCB's


How about you try it first and let me know how it goes!







I've got a reference EVGA 780 SC I'm going to mount up first with the G10, H75, and Noctua NF-B9. I will then look at disassembling my 780Ti DCUII and see how we can make it work. If you beat me to it then kudos and I hope to hear about your results and findings!


----------



## asm99

Hi guys,
I have a MSI R9 280 Gaming and need to know if the Kraken works on my card.
Here is a pic of my card PCB


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asm99*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I have a MSI R9 280 Gaming and need to know if the Kraken works on my card.
> Here is a pic of my card PCB


Should work if the screw pattern looks the same as the reference card since the 280 is on the compatible list.


----------



## fanchiuho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asm99*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I have a MSI R9 280 Gaming and need to know if the Kraken works on my card.
> Here is a pic of my card PCB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I thought I might link you to a related post where I posted my small changes to the G10 before mounting it on a 290 Gaming.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1503301/msi-r9-290-kraken-g10-questions

Seeing that your VRM and VRAM cooling has been sufficiently covered, your main problem would likely be the decreased screw length due to the backplate. See my post on how to solve it.


----------



## MEC-777

Is Vram cooling really that necessary? (By that I mean going out of your way to buy Vram heatsinks and sticking them on). My Vram is bare (no heatsinks or tape) and I have it OC'd +200mhz without any issues. It's my understanding that the GPU and VRMs are the two most important components to cool as they produce the most heat.


----------



## v3n0m90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Is Vram cooling really that necessary? (By that I mean going out of your way to buy Vram heatsinks and sticking them on). My Vram is bare (no heatsinks or tape) and I have it OC'd +200mhz without any issues. It's my understanding that the GPU and VRMs are the two most important components to cool as they produce the most heat.


You have the whole card apart to put the g10 on. Might as well just put some heatsinks on the VRAM. They aren't very expensive and It's only going to help you out.


----------



## asm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Should work if the screw pattern looks the same as the reference card since the 280 is on the compatible list.


Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fanchiuho*
> 
> I thought I might link you to a related post where I posted my small changes to the G10 before mounting it on a 290 Gaming.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1503301/msi-r9-290-kraken-g10-questions
> 
> Seeing that your VRM and VRAM cooling has been sufficiently covered, your main problem would likely be the decreased screw length due to the backplate. See my post on how to solve it.


Yes, thanks. I have to look into that.

I think I just need heatsinks for pic 1 and 2. On pic 2 I wonder how am I going to place a heatsink there.


----------



## fanchiuho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asm99*
> 
> Thanks
> Yes, thanks. I have to look into that.
> 
> I think I just need heatsinks for pic 1 and 2. On pic 2 I wonder how am I going to place a heatsink there.


You can use the exact same heatsink as mine and it'll be 1mm off the block. IDK what it's called in the US, it's branded Cosmos...?

For Pic 2 you don't even have to add a heatsink as I did, as I said from your pic, your card already came with a huge chunk of black heatsink over there.


----------



## asm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fanchiuho*
> 
> You can use the exact same heatsink as mine and it'll be 1mm off the block. IDK what it's called in the US, it's branded Cosmos...?
> 
> For Pic 2 you don't even have to add a heatsink as I did, as I said from your pic, your card already came with a huge chunk of black heatsink over there.


Thanks. I have opened a lot of hardware but never stripped a gpu


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v3n0m90*
> 
> You have the whole card apart to put the g10 on. Might as well just put some heatsinks on the VRAM. They aren't very expensive and It's only going to help you out.


I guess it's a matter of preference. I'm not too worried about it.


----------



## robotninja

Anyone had any issues with the pump mounting screws loosening and causing increased temperatures?

I just wonder as I have moved my computer several times in the last week and after gaming for an hour or so my gpu got up to 80 degrees when before it would peak around 60 after LONG gaming sessions.

Sapphire 7950 with Thermaltake Water 2.0 performer. I also think that the use of the copper shim on the 7950s hurts performance as well as ease of install.


----------



## richie_2010

i dont have the g10 but because the way the screws are they may have worked loose a lil. tighten em up and see what happens

a good tip for the shim guys:
put a dab of paste on the core
place shim ontop and push down on 2 corners using tips of your fingers.
place tim ontop and put cooler ontop this
tighten down and while doing this try not to move the pump.

this is the method i used and turned out the best
when i removed the cooler the shim was stuck to the cooler because of the spread and the paste had spread over the core nicely


----------



## Voltaire90

For what its worth, I pre ordered several heatsinks for my GTX 770 in anticipation of getting a G10 set on there, but it turns out all of those mosfets and VRM/VRAM are already covered by a low profile heatsink plate installed beneath the stock cooler that is separate and can remain on there. This is also removable, but I decided to keep it since it looks like it will do a great job, and will be having to return the heat sinks. This is the card I bought:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130946

Just thought I would let you guys know, if you want to save yourself some time and money. Don't know what other cards come with this, but it wasnt in the product description, the plate underneath the cooler or the back plate.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Check Below


Mack Attack you should edit your first post to include what Graphics cards the Kraken G10 will fit on, so that people new to this can look to see if there card fits. Also maybe a list to show which cards have the back and front plate.

EDIT: Or maybe people can register in your first post and note which card they successfully mounted there Kraken G10 to. I notice theres a whole lot of people posting they've done it but not alot of people who've registered in the first post to state which card they're using the Kraken G10 with.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Mack Attack you should edit your first post to include what Graphics cards the Kraken G10 will fit on, so that people new to this can look to see if there card fits. Also maybe a list to show which cards have the back and front plate.
> 
> EDIT: Or maybe people can register in your first post and note which card they successfully mounted there Kraken G10 to. I notice theres a whole lot of people posting they've done it but not alot of people who've registered in the first post to state which card they're using the Kraken G10 with.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club


First thing I did when considering the G10 was check NZXT's website. They have a full list of compatible cards.

Also, just like you said; we should also have a list of non-reference cards that we know are compatible and can add that to a list on the first post.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> we should also have a list of non-reference cards that we know are compatible and can add that to a list on the first post.


This is what i meant, he has the list of reference cards directly from NZXT on his first post, but by the looks for this thread there are alot of people that have the kraken g10 but haven't used the google doc to register it in this thread.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> This is what i meant, he has the list of reference cards directly from NZXT on his first post, but by the looks for this thread there are alot of people that have the kraken g10 but haven't used the google doc to register it in this thread.


Oh, there is a list! Somehow I missed it. Just added mine.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I'm thinking of buying a Kraken G10 + Corsair H55/50 for my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX. I will mount the radiator to the hard drive cage of my Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Will the H55/50 be long enough to mount to the hard drive cage? I will also add some VRM Heatsinks to the card, do I need any shims or thermal pads?

I will purchase a set each of these heatsinks:

Cosmos 20 pack Aluminum

Cosmos 8 Pack Copper

Will these heatsinks stay on with the sticky tape that they come pre-applied with, particularly the heavy copper ones? Would it make sense to add the smallest spec of thermal paste between the heatsink and VRM?

Is there any kind of adapter that you could use to hook the included G10 fan onto the graphics card's fan header so you can use a fan curve for the included fan? If so, could anyone link me to that product or point me in the right direction please?

Is it possible to maintain the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX's built in VRM cooling plate while still adding the Kraken G10? I also already own the back plate for the 780, will I be able to keep that on as well?

Any advice on how to proceed, and what specific steps to take, if it requires modding, would be greatly appreciated, especially pictures of where to place the heatsinks.

Doing some research, will the Corsair HG10 only work for reference cards? From the pictures, it looks like the fan is only usable if you own a reference blower style 780, which basically screws everyone who bought a non-reference card.

Thank you, looking forward to joining the club!


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm thinking of buying a Kraken G10 + Corsair H55/50 for my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX. I will mount the radiator to the hard drive cage of my Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Will the H55/50 be long enough to mount to the hard drive cage? I will also add some VRM Heatsinks to the card, do I need any shims or thermal pads?
> 
> I will purchase a set each of these heatsinks:
> 
> Cosmos 20 pack Aluminum
> 
> Cosmos 8 Pack Copper
> 
> Will these heatsinks stay on with the sticky tape that they come pre-applied with, particularly the heavy copper ones? Would it make sense to add the smallest spec of thermal paste between the heatsink and VRM?
> 
> Is there any kind of adapter that you could use to hook the included G10 fan onto the graphics card's fan header so you can use a fan curve for the included fan? If so, could anyone link me to that product or point me in the right direction please?
> 
> Is it possible to maintain the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX's built in VRM cooling plate while still adding the Kraken G10? I also already own the back plate for the 780, will I be able to keep that on as well?
> 
> Any advice on how to proceed, and what specific steps to take, if it requires modding, would be greatly appreciated, especially pictures of where to place the heatsinks.
> 
> Doing some research, will the Corsair HG10 only work for reference cards? From the pictures, it looks like the fan is only usable if you own a reference blower style 780, which basically screws everyone who bought a non-reference card.
> 
> Thank you, looking forward to joining the club!










"Will these heatsinks stay on with the sticky tape that they come pre-applied with, particularly the heavy copper ones? "
I have the copper ones and am having trouble getting them to stick to the VRM's so i ordered some thermal tape.








"Would it make sense to add the smallest spec of thermal paste between the heatsink and VRM?"
Not necessary since it is a thermal tape that is already preapplied. It would actually make it not stick if you used thermal paste.








"Is there any kind of adapter that you could use to hook the included G10 fan onto the graphics card's fan header so you can use a fan curve for the included fan? If so, could anyone link me to that product or point me in the right direction please?"
Not necessary in my opinion the fan on the G10 is silent at full speed, and to be honest the fan speed would be adjusted per the GPU temperature and not the VRM's temperature which would be the hottest since the GPU is liquid cooled.

As for any other questions they will have to be answered by someone who has the card your trying to mount the g10 on.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm thinking of buying a Kraken G10 + Corsair H55/50 for my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX. I will mount the radiator to the hard drive cage of my Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Will the H55/50 be long enough to mount to the hard drive cage? I will also add some VRM Heatsinks to the card, do I need any shims or thermal pads?
> 
> I will purchase a set each of these heatsinks:
> 
> Cosmos 20 pack Aluminum
> 
> Cosmos 8 Pack Copper
> 
> Will these heatsinks stay on with the sticky tape that they come pre-applied with, particularly the heavy copper ones? Would it make sense to add the smallest spec of thermal paste between the heatsink and VRM?
> 
> Is there any kind of adapter that you could use to hook the included G10 fan onto the graphics card's fan header so you can use a fan curve for the included fan? If so, could anyone link me to that product or point me in the right direction please?
> 
> Is it possible to maintain the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX's built in VRM cooling plate while still adding the Kraken G10? I also already own the back plate for the 780, will I be able to keep that on as well?
> 
> Any advice on how to proceed, and what specific steps to take, if it requires modding, would be greatly appreciated, especially pictures of where to place the heatsinks.
> 
> Doing some research, will the Corsair HG10 only work for reference cards? From the pictures, it looks like the fan is only usable if you own a reference blower style 780, which basically screws everyone who bought a non-reference card.
> 
> Thank you, looking forward to joining the club!


From the first page:

**Original corsair H50 will not fit properly**

I have the H55 and it fits/works just fine on my 7950.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Hey guys.

I've just ordered a G10 for my Classy, its a temporary solution for noisy fans all these ACX coolers have, I had a Kraken X60 sitting in a box so I though why not.
When you find a silicon lottery winner you don't want to loose it.

Couple of questions though, I saw a installation video, the guy said there is no indication of when the pump is on tight enough, is that true?
Also would you run the Kraken x60 off its software to control the fans for the GPU, from what I know of the Kraken it controls the fans via the water temps, not the CPU temps.
Do you really need to replace the stock fan, I'll be using the Classy's already attached heat spreader and back plate (Saw someone do it over at the eVGA Classy club by removing the foam pad on the Kraken's x bracket)

Was going to mount it here, the RAD would sit flush without needing to be screwed in for easy card removal:
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140805_132931_zpsd6c2bb50.jpg.html


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

What brand of thermal tape did you buy?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> What brand of thermal tape did you buy?


Was that to me...lol..


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Was that to me...lol..


No, my mistake, was meant for this gentleman:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Will these heatsinks stay on with the sticky tape that they come pre-applied with, particularly the heavy copper ones? "
> I have the copper ones and am having trouble getting them to stick to the VRM's so i ordered some thermal tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Would it make sense to add the smallest spec of thermal paste between the heatsink and VRM?"
> Not necessary since it is a thermal tape that is already preapplied. It would actually make it not stick if you used thermal paste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Is there any kind of adapter that you could use to hook the included G10 fan onto the graphics card's fan header so you can use a fan curve for the included fan? If so, could anyone link me to that product or point me in the right direction please?"
> Not necessary in my opinion the fan on the G10 is silent at full speed, and to be honest the fan speed would be adjusted per the GPU temperature and not the VRM's temperature which would be the hottest since the GPU is liquid cooled.
> 
> As for any other questions they will have to be answered by someone who has the card your trying to mount the g10 on.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> What brand of thermal tape did you buy?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/271530851540?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/271530851540?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


And one order of that stuff was enough to cover everything? I think I might get two or three orders just to have it on hand if needed.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> And one order of that stuff was enough to cover everything? I think I might get two or three orders just to have it on hand if needed.


Well i ordered 2 to have some on hand, i used about 1/3 of one piece for my VRM's alone. SO yeah i'd go with 2-3 just to have extra on hand.


----------



## ducknukem86

I intend to buy a Kraken for an Evga 780 ti with Acx Cooler. The card has a plate that covers the vrms and memory. With a Shim i could get the AIO to make contact with the gpu. Would i need extra heatsinks for the Vrm?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> I intend to buy a Kraken for an Evga 780 ti with Acx Cooler. The card has a plate that covers the vrms and memory. With a Shim i could get the AIO to make contact with the gpu. Would i need extra heatsinks for the Vrm?


I don't know, that is a good question, I also have an ACX Cooler and I wonder if I need a shim too if I keep the base plate on? What size of shim do I need? Do I apply thermal paste to both sides of the shim?
I would buy heat sinks for the VRMs and VRAM just in case, better safe than sorry.

Here are some of the products I bought:

2 Packs of Cosmos Copper VGA Heatsinks

1 Pack of Cosmos mini Aluminum VGA Heatsinks

3 Packs of Sekisui Double-Sided Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape

Optional: Aftermarket Thermal Compound, it often comes with the AIO Cooler, or if you have some already, if not I recommend the Gelid GC-Extreme


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> I intend to buy a Kraken for an Evga 780 ti with Acx Cooler. The card has a plate that covers the vrms and memory. With a Shim i could get the AIO to make contact with the gpu. Would i need extra heatsinks for the Vrm?


I was going to do this with my Classy which has a similar shield (just bigger)
It won't fit unless you cut the shielding, check out the pictures from DarkReign32 who put it on a GTX780 Classy, you'll see there is 4 lugs that stick out closer to the GPU socket, this stops the cooler sitting flat.
You can cut them off like DarkReign32 did.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1411500/official-evga-classified-owners-club/10140#post_21912782


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I was going to do this with my Classy which has a similar shield (just bigger)
> It won't fit unless you cut the shielding, check out the pictures from DarkReign32 who put it on a GTX780 Classy, you'll see there is 4 lugs that stick out closer to the GPU socket, this stops the cooler sitting flat.
> You can cut them off like DarkReign32 did.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1411500/official-evga-classified-owners-club/10140#post_21912782


That's exactly what I needed to see! Thank you!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Does anyone know if the Kraken X31, or X41 will fit with the G10?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Unless you modify the shield it won't fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Kraken X31, or X41 will fit with the G10?


Yep same Asetek pump/mount, just a thicker RAD.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> How about you try it first and let me know how it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a reference EVGA 780 SC I'm going to mount up first with the G10, H75, and Noctua NF-B9. I will then look at disassembling my 780Ti DCUII and see how we can make it work. If you beat me to it then kudos and I hope to hear about your results and findings!


I couldn't resist man. I just ordered the G10 and a H55. I'll let you know when I install it.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> That's exactly what I needed to see! Thank you!


Hold on a minute before cutting your front plate like that guy did. Try a shim first, so you don't have to modify your front plate cooler. GPU shims are all the same size, ebay has plenty of them, even amazon.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I was going to do this with my Classy which has a similar shield (just bigger)
> It won't fit unless you cut the shielding, check out the pictures from DarkReign32 who put it on a GTX780 Classy, you'll see there is 4 lugs that stick out closer to the GPU socket, this stops the cooler sitting flat.
> You can cut them off like DarkReign32 did.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1411500/official-evga-classified-owners-club/10140#post_21912782


Yeah but i don't think that guy tryed a shim, possibly if he had a shim he wouldn't of had to cut his front plate("shield"). They should try a shim before modding stock things....


----------



## ducknukem86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Yeah but i don't think that guy tryed a shim, possibly if he had a shim he wouldn't of had to cut his front plate("shield"). They should try a shim before modding stock things....


That was my main question. If a copper shim would work, that i way i get to keep the heat plate, without having to cut anything. And the vram and vrms will continue to be protected.


----------



## Ultisym

Had some fun last weekend.
Installed Kraken G-10 x 2 and Corsair H90 x 2 on My ASUS Directcu II GTX 770s. Overall real pleased with performance. I have a 30C drop in temps while gaming and benching.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Was able to keep the ASUS backplate and the VRM Heatsinks. I still have to come up with some heatsinks for the VRAM before I call it done. Maxing out the 1.213 voltage i can get on these cards, im hitting core speeds just under 1400 and VRAM at 7600. After I get some heat sinks on the VRAM I am going to hotwire the cards so I can push the voltage up some. I would like to get at least a 1450 core speed out of it and get the memory upto 7800. But that was a quick and easy 30C drop in temps. About 45 minutes per card from start to finish and with my discounts im out about $200. Not bad.

Couple extra Shots


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Fit test. Shows the apparatus compared to the DirectCU II Cooler.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Both Cards in the case. I initially attached the 140mm for the top gpu in that location at the top of the case adjacent to the H110. Ultimately, i ended up mounting both of the 140mm radiators on the case side panel and cleaning all those wires up and out of there. Fortunately, I had been using a NZXT SENTRY II to control the H110 fans as well as the one 140mm fan on the case rear and the two 140mms on the case side cover. So I had plenty of fan headers on the mainboard for all of this.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Hold on a minute before cutting your front plate like that guy did. Try a shim first, so you don't have to modify your front plate cooler. GPU shims are all the same size, ebay has plenty of them, even amazon.


Not all shims are the same, which is why I am asking what size shim do I need? What height? what dimensions, etc..


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Not all shims are the same, which is why I am asking what size shim do I need? What height? what dimensions, etc..


Well they all should be 15mmx15mm.....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XGPU+shim%2C&_nkw=GPU+shim%2C&_sacat=0

EDIT: i see what your saying the depth of the shim....

I would try something like .08 thick and try that. Or try to measure how thick the the front plate is and go by that...


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Had some fun last weekend.
> Installed Kraken G-10 x 2 and Corsair H90 x 2 on My ASUS Directcu II GTX 770s. Overall real pleased with performance. I have a 30C drop in temps while gaming and benching.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was able to keep the ASUS backplate and the VRM Heatsinks. I still have to come up with some heatsinks for the VRAM before I call it done. Maxing out the 1.213 voltage i can get on these cards, im hitting core speeds just under 1400 and VRAM at 7600. After I get some heat sinks on the VRAM I am going to hotwire the cards so I can push the voltage up some. I would like to get at least a 1450 core speed out of it and get the memory upto 7800. But that was a quick and easy 30C drop in temps. About 45 minutes per card from start to finish and with my discounts im out about $200. Not bad.


Kinda wish i went with the ASUS 770 myself....would of loved to have that VRM heatsinks already there instead of stuck on copper ones and also the back plate..... Looks good though!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well they all should be 15mmx15mm.....
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XGPU+shim%2C&_nkw=GPU+shim%2C&_sacat=0
> 
> EDIT: i see what your saying the depth of the shim....
> 
> I would try something like .08 thick and try that. Or try to measure how thick the the front plate is and go by that...


Do you think the heat transfer will be just as good through a copper shim?

Also, should I apply thermal paste to both sides of the shim?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

yes thermal paste on both sides, it wont be as good as cooler to gpu die but I think as long as you get pasted it should work well.

Edit...Also, @ ldewitt I will see what I can do to add something to the main page for nonrefrence cards.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Do you think the heat transfer will be just as good through a copper shim?
> 
> Also, should I apply thermal paste to both sides of the shim?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> yes thermal paste on both sides, it wont be as good as cooler to gpu die but I think as long as you get pasted it should work well.
> 
> Edit...Also, @ ldewitt I will see what I can do to add something to the main page for nonrefrence cards.


I feel it should work the same as being directly connected to the cooler.

And thanks MaCk it will help alot of people then were not re-answering questions already answered throughout the forum.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I really wish that the Cooler Master AIOs worked with the G10 =(


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I really wish that the Cooler Master AIOs worked with the G10 =(


Yeah I had a pair of those laying around. But no can do, I even considered rigging something and it wasnt worth the effort.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Just be careful with a shim, there is no way of knowing where to stop tightening the cooler to the GPU and could damage the card.
So little bits at a time.

I've seen some pretty bowed cards from Kraken Over tightening..


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Just be careful with a shim, there is no way of knowing where to stop tightening the cooler to the GPU and could damage the card.
> So little bits at a time.
> 
> I've seen some pretty bowed cards from Kraken Over tightening..


Ya, that is what scares me the most about using a shim. Its either a shim, or void your warranty by removing those prongs to allow the base plate to still be there. Or I can just remove the base plate. I already bought all of the thermal tape and heatsinks I need..

I keep going back and forth if I should follow through with the G10(I could still return everything) or if I should do a small water loop, GPU only....

If I was going to do a loop, this is how I would do it:



The top radiator is a CM 240M Seidon that works wonders on my CPU. The bottom radiator is part of the custom loop I would do for my GPU.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I really wish that the Cooler Master AIOs worked with the G10 =(


Some of them do. I'm running an H55 with the G10.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Some of them do. I'm running an H55 with the G10.


Thats a corsair AIO.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Anything Asetek style (The round pump with the prongs around it) will work perfectly.
But I have seen people make custom brackets for the square cooler master style pumps.
A nice copper Swiftech one would be good on the GPU.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Anything Asetek style (The round pump with the prongs around it) will work perfectly.
> But I have seen people make custom brackets for the square cooler master style pumps.
> A nice copper Swiftech one would be good on the GPU.


Look at the CM 240M Seidon and let me know if it would work. It is circular with prongs on the outside, but isn't on the compatible list.

I own the CM 240M Seidon for my CPU and the thing is amazing. I only paid $56 for it after rebate, and I absolutely love it, performs like a champ and for the price, it is unbeatable. I just wish it would fit on the G10. I am leaning towards getting the Kraken X31 right now.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> CM 240M Seidon It is circular with prongs on the outside, but isn't on the compatible list.


Nope, this style of pump:
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/h110_hero_base_tubing_zpsd6f7241a.png.html


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Gotcha, thats what you meant by rivets along the sides.


----------



## Pierce

has anyone tried this with a r9 290?

asny mounting issues? i have the tt water 2.0 and it should work with the g10, right? would i need anything else, like say cooling for vrm? im new to this

i bought a tt water 2.0 for my z87 mobo and i had to split the mounting bracket in half. i reaaly just want a straightforward installation

thanks


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Thats a corsair AIO.


Ah, yes. Don't know what I was thinking...









Been a long day. lol


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierce*
> 
> has anyone tried this with a r9 290?
> 
> asny mounting issues? i have the tt water 2.0 and it should work with the g10, right? would i need anything else, like say cooling for vrm? im new to this
> 
> i bought a tt water 2.0 for my z87 mobo and i had to split the mounting bracket in half. i reaaly just want a straightforward installation
> 
> thanks


Ive seen several 290s with this type of cooler setup. As far I know all three versions of the TT 2.0 are on the list.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Some of them do. I'm running an H55 with the G10.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*


Yeah, I know. My brain was on hibernate when I typed that reply...


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> How about you try it first and let me know how it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a reference EVGA 780 SC I'm going to mount up first with the G10, H75, and Noctua NF-B9. I will then look at disassembling my 780Ti DCUII and see how we can make it work. If you beat me to it then kudos and I hope to hear about your results and findings!


That feeling when your order comes and gets excited.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









But then you received a defective unthreaded gpu screw











I'll be asking some longer screws because it just barely fits with the Asus backplate on.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Ok, so I have purchased all of the components necessary to mount a G10 onto my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler:

Kraken X31 = $66 (VCO Discount)

G10 Bracket = $26

3x 2 Pack Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Heatsink Tape = $8.25 (I bought more than necessary, just in case)

2x 8 Pack Copper Heatsinks = $17

1x 20 Pack Aluminum Heatsinks = $7.25

1x Gelid Solutions PWM Fan Adapter for VGA Cards = $5 (Optional)

1x Copper Shim 20mm x 20mm x 0.8mm = $2.50

1x Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm PWM Fan = $9 (VCO Discount) (Optional)

Total = $142

I have a question: I already own a backplate for my EVGA GTX 780, I have seen others be able to keep this backplate on while mounting the G10. Do I need longer screws in order to make it work? If so, what length and type of screws? Could anyone send me a link or point me in the right direction of those necessary screws please?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ok, so I have purchased all of the components necessary to mount a G10 onto my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler:
> 
> Kraken X31 = $66 (VCO Discount)
> 
> G10 Bracket = $26
> 
> 3x 2 Pack Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Heatsink Tape = $8.25 (I bought more than necessary, just in case)
> 
> 2x 8 Pack Copper Heatsinks = $17
> 
> 1x 20 Pack Aluminum Heatsinks = $7.25
> 
> 1x Gelid Solutions PWM Fan Adapter for VGA Cards = $5 (Optional)
> 
> 1x Copper Shim 20mm x 20mm x 0.8mm = $2.50
> 
> 1x Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm PWM Fan = $9 (VCO Discount) (Optional)
> 
> Total = $142
> 
> I have a question: I already own a backplate for my EVGA GTX 780, I have seen others be able to keep this backplate on while mounting the G10. Do I need longer screws in order to make it work? If so, what length and type of screws? Could anyone send me a link or point me in the right direction of those necessary screws please?


Im not sure on the EVGA backplate but there was absolutely no issue on me reusing my ASUS backplates. There is no need to use any washers if your resuing your backplate, perhaps that should make the difference.


----------



## ducknukem86

Quick question: do you plug in the 92mm fan to the gpu? Is this possible with a 780 reference pcb?

Where does the pumps radiator fan go?

Thank you!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> Quick question: do you plug in the 92mm fan to the gpu? Is this possible with a 780 reference pcb?
> 
> Where does the pumps radiator fan go?
> 
> Thank you!


The radiator fan goes onto the radiator.

If you want to connect the fan onto your GPU, you can use this adapter:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13314/cab-454/Gelid_Solutions_PWM_Fan_Adapter_for_VGA_Cards_CA-PWM-02.html#blank


----------



## ducknukem86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The radiator fan goes onto the radiator.
> 
> If you want to connect the fan onto your GPU, you can use this adapter:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13314/cab-454/Gelid_Solutions_PWM_Fan_Adapter_for_VGA_Cards_CA-PWM-02.html#blank


Thank you I'll buy that!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The radiator fan goes onto the radiator.
> 
> If you want to connect the fan onto your GPU, you can use this adapter:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13314/cab-454/Gelid_Solutions_PWM_Fan_Adapter_for_VGA_Cards_CA-PWM-02.html#blank


I think NZXT should include one of these and a powered PWM spliter, even if the price was $10 more it would save a lot of hassle...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The radiator fan goes onto the radiator.
> 
> If you want to connect the fan onto your GPU, you can use this adapter:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13314/cab-454/Gelid_Solutions_PWM_Fan_Adapter_for_VGA_Cards_CA-PWM-02.html#blank


Is the power output on the graphics card strong enough for the pump on the AIO? The H90s came with a real short power cable for the pump for some reason.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I think NZXT should include one of these and a powered PWM spliter, even if the price was $10 more it would save a lot of hassle...


Agreed, the only thing that made my install go rather smooth was all the extra fan headers on my mainboard and the 5 fan NZXT fan controller I had installed.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Is the power output on the graphics card strong enough for the pump on the AIO? The H90s came with a real short power cable for the pump for some reason.


I don't think it is for the AIO, at least I hope that is not what the guy is using it for. I intended to hook the 92mm fan up to the GPU so I can save fan-headers on my motherboard.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> Quick question: do you plug in the 92mm fan to the gpu? Is this possible with a 780 reference pcb?
> 
> Where does the pumps radiator fan go?
> 
> Thank you!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The radiator fan goes onto the radiator.
> 
> If you want to connect the fan onto your GPU, you can use this adapter:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13314/cab-454/Gelid_Solutions_PWM_Fan_Adapter_for_VGA_Cards_CA-PWM-02.html#blank


The problem with that solution is that your card is going to throttle your fan basd on your GPU temp and not by the VRM temp since your GPU will always stay cool the fan will be lowering making your card throttle down also because your VRM temp will climb. Just hook fan and pump to any fan header 3 or 4 pin doesn't matter since your gona want to run both at full speed anyways....for optimum temperatures...


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Is the power output on the graphics card strong enough for the pump on the AIO? The H90s came with a real short power cable for the pump for some reason.


No it won't have enough power to run your pump


----------



## ducknukem86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> The problem with that solution is that your card is going to throttle your fan basd on your GPU temp and not by the VRM temp since your GPU will always stay cool the fan will be lowering making your card throttle down also because your VRM temp will climb. Just hook fan and pump to any fan header 3 or 4 pin doesn't matter since your gona want to run both at full speed anyways....for optimum temperatures...


But if i connect the 92mm fan to the Gpu i could use a software like Precision X to set it to %100 right?

Either way since it's a 3 pin fan it means that it'll run at full speed if i connect to the motherboard or am i mistaken?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> The problem with that solution is that your card is going to throttle your fan basd on your GPU temp and not by the VRM temp since your GPU will always stay cool the fan will be lowering making your card throttle down also because your VRM temp will climb. Just hook fan and pump to any fan header 3 or 4 pin doesn't matter since your gona want to run both at full speed anyways....for optimum temperatures...


I'm just going to go inside MSI Afterburner and set the fan to 100% constant. I am not going to waste a motherboard fan header on a dinky 92mm fan. $5 to open up a mobo fan header? I'll do that any day of the week.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> No it won't have enough power to run your pump


Didnt see how it could. I just really hate using Molex to fan header adapters. I really dont understand the pump lead on the H90. I have had a lot AIOs and they had decent length cables. This one wont reach any header anywhere for the top card. I swear it seems like its 4 inches long. The bottom one did only becasue there was one 2 right by the power/reset etc header.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> But if i connect the 92mm fan to the Gpu i could use a software like Precision X to set it to %100 right?
> 
> Either way since it's a 3 pin fan it means that it'll run at full speed if i connect to the motherboard or am i mistaken?


There are motherboards that can control 3 pin fans.


----------



## Ultisym

nevermind


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> All do, even the 4 pin headers have the slot for 3 pin fans.


I mean speed control


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> I mean speed control


Yeah i realized after the fact. Have to excuse me, im on pain meds today, broke a damn toe. Im a little slow today


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> But if i connect the 92mm fan to the Gpu i could use a software like Precision X to set it to %100 right?
> 
> Either way since it's a 3 pin fan it means that it'll run at full speed if i connect to the motherboard or am i mistaken?


Yeah you've got a point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm just going to go inside MSI Afterburner and set the fan to 100% constant. I am not going to waste a motherboard fan header on a dinky 92mm fan. $5 to open up a mobo fan header? I'll do that any day of the week.


Well sure if your fan headers are scarce


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Didnt see how it could. I just really hate using Molex to fan header adapters. I really dont understand the pump lead on the H90. I have had a lot AIOs and they had decent length cables. This one wont reach any header anywhere for the top card. I swear it seems like its 4 inches long. The bottom one did only becasue there was one 2 right by the power/reset etc header.


Well if you have an open fan header, use a 3-pin extension:
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=12-493-001


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well if you have an open fan header, use a 3-pin extension:
> http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=12-493-001


Worth looking into. I may just wire one up myself.


----------



## falcon26

Can you mount something like the Corsair H55 cooler using this?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Can you mount something like the Corsair H55 cooler using this?


If you mean the Kraken G10 to mount a Corsair H55 then yes. As you can see the majority of the people using a Kraken G10 use the H55 because it's cheap.

Read a little bit of the first post and you'll get alot of information regarding what does work with the NZXT Kraken G10:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club#post_22204385


----------



## falcon26

OK cool. Now can I just use the H55 and the G10 without any little heat sinks for the memory or vrm's? I have a Msi gaming 780 Ti. And how loud is the fan on the G10?


----------



## MEC-777

For those talking about how to wire up the 92mm fan on the G10 bracket - I'm running mine at 100% straight off a molex to 3-pin connector. It's a pretty quiet fan and it just helps pull more cool, fresh air into the small Node 304.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> OK cool. Now can I just use the H55 and the G10 without any little heat sinks for the memory or vrm's? I have a Msi gaming 780 Ti. And how loud is the fan on the G10?


The MSI Gaming 780ti does not need heatsinks. It has a factory midplate that cools them. I use an H55 on mine and it works perfectly. I use a noctua 92mm pwm fan though and have my motherboard adjust speed based on a temp probe i put on the midplate.


----------



## falcon26

Cool. You wouldn't have any pictures of your setup would  Also what are you load and idle temps like? Also why do you need a fan? And if you do can you change out the one that is on their if its too loud? I assume its a 92mm fan..


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Cool. You wouldn't have any pictures of your setup would  Also what are you load and idle temps like? Also why do you need a fan? And if you do can you change out the one that is on their if its too loud? I assume its a 92mm fan..


You still need airflow over the backplate to cool it. Thats what the 92mm fan does. And yea, its just a standard 92mm fan. I installed the noctua one so i pwm control it.

My idle temps are 30 or so. Load temps in games maybe 65C running 1210mhz.

My motherboard has a spot for a temp sensor. So i got a 2 pin temp sensor and just stuck it inside the midplate so it is close to the VRM's. As the VRM's get hotter the 92mm fan speed increases and the radiator fan speed increases.


----------



## falcon26

How loud is the stock fan on the G10? I like silence in my system  And does the stock fan plug into your video card or the motherboard?


----------



## Cozmo85

I never used it so cant tell you. It plugs into your motherboard btw.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> How loud is the stock fan on the G10? I like silence in my system  And does the stock fan plug into your video card or the motherboard?


Not loud at all even at 100%.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> You still need airflow over the backplate to cool it. Thats what the 92mm fan does. And yea, its just a standard 92mm fan. I installed the noctua one so i pwm control it.
> 
> My idle temps are 30 or so. Load temps in games maybe 65C running 1210mhz.
> 
> My motherboard has a spot for a temp sensor. So i got a 2 pin temp sensor and just stuck it inside the midplate so it is close to the VRM's. As the VRM's get hotter the 92mm fan speed increases and the radiator fan speed increases.


What were your temps before installing the H55?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> What were your temps before installing the H55?


Around 80. I only had it for a week or so though without the g10 so i never really payed a ton of attention. Its also much much quieter now with the noctua fans.


----------



## falcon26

Is it easy to change out the stock fan?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Is it easy to change out the stock fan?


You can only change the fan on the G10 bracket when it's not installed on the card. Once it's mounted to the card, you can't access the screws.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Is it easy to change out the stock fan?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> You can only change the fan on the G10 bracket when it's not installed on the card. Once it's mounted to the card, you can't access the screws.


+1

But the kraken G10 comes without the fan already on they leave it off in the occasion someone wants to put there own fan on it.


----------



## PCGameFan

It's now on the EVGA GTX 780 Ti Kingpin. Oh what this little bracket can do!


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> It's now on the EVGA GTX 780 Ti Kingpin. Oh what this little bracket can do!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Doesn't the kingpin come with full front heatsinks why would he not use the whole thing??


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Doesn't the kingpin come with full front heatsinks why would he not use the whole thing??


Good question... I found this picture, maybe it won't fit with the tabs around the GPU?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> Good question... I found this picture, maybe it won't fit with the tabs around the GPU?


Yep, the regular classified is the same.


----------



## PCGameFan

Why is the H55 the most popular Corsair cooler vs any of their other 120mm versions?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> Why is the H55 the most popular Corsair cooler vs any of their other 120mm versions?


Probably because it is the least expensive cooler available, and it gives you incredible results. You start to experience diminishing returns by going with more expensive, and larger radiator options.
I personally bought a Kraken X31, and I figure I give that a try.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Probably because it is the least expensive cooler available, and it gives you incredible results. You start to experience diminishing returns by going with more expensive, and larger radiator options.
> I personally bought a Kraken X31, and I figure I give that a try.


I think it has more to do with the number of versions they have which are actually compatible with the asetek form factor. Assuming an equal pump, your not going to see diminishing returns on the 140mm radiators over the 120mms. But the H55 is cheap and does a good job. There are better options though.


----------



## curly haired boy

i wonder if they'll ever do a v2 to better compete with corsair's offering...


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Now that the Classified is off to RMA, I'm thinking of trying the G10 with a Kraken x60 on a GTX780ti Matrix.
Anyone done it yet?

There is no cooling on the vram with the stock cooler, but there is a vrm heat sink that is screwed on from the back, just like the normal DCUII card.


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Now that the Classified is off to RMA, I'm thinking of trying the G10 with a Kraken x60 on a GTX780ti Matrix.
> Anyone done it yet?
> 
> There is no cooling on the vram with the stock cooler, but there is a vrm heat sink that is screwed on from the back, just like the normal DCUII card.


I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work. I know if you ask NZXT they will tell you that it won't since they can't say 100% that it will work.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> i wonder if they'll ever do a v2 to better compete with corsair's offering...


I think the biggest thing I would like to see them change is just modifying the bracket to take more AIOs. Also, they should put together a quality heatsink/thermal paste/glue kit to include in the G-10 package. I do not know what NZXT's agreement was in the acquisition of the rights to Dwoods bracket but I am betting they got it for a song. If they start redesigning they will actually have to spend some money on engineering and the G-10 bracket would not be all profit anymore. In actuality they will probably both be equally effective. Corsairs will be prettier, lol. That will appeal to some more than others. I guess until we actually see some of Corsairs coolers in the wild its still just speculation.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I think the biggest thing I would like to see them change is just modifying the bracket to take more AIOs. Also, they should put together a quality heatsink/thermal paste/glue kit to include in the G-10 package. I do not know what NZXT's agreement was in the acquisition of the rights to Dwoods bracket but I am betting they got it for a song. If they start redesigning they will actually have to spend some money on engineering and the G-10 bracket would not be all profit anymore. In actuality they will probably both be equally effective. Corsairs will be prettier, lol. That will appeal to some more than others. I guess until we actually see some of Corsairs coolers in the wild its still just speculation.


The problem with the newer AIOs is the block design and mounting fitment - which may be the same within a certain brand, but is different for different brands. For instance, you can't mount a Cooler Master Seidon 120V block using Corsair's H100 mounting hardware. To make it work, they would have to include other adapters. Not impossible to do though.

I think they made a wise decision by going with the asetek mounting design as it can be used with a much wider range of AIOs made by various brands without the need to use any other adapters or additional hardware. I also like the fact that you can mount the block at almost any angle (rotation) to accommodate more restrictive or custom setups - something you might not be able to do with the square type blocks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> The problem with the newer AIOs is the block design and mounting fitment - which may be the same within a certain brand, but is different for different brands. For instance, you can't mount a Cooler Master Seidon 120V block using Corsair's H100 mounting hardware. To make it work, they would have to include other adapters. Not impossible to do though.
> 
> I think they made a wise decision by going with the asetek mounting design as it can be used with a much wider range of AIOs made by various brands without the need to use any other adapters or additional hardware. I also like the fact that you can mount the block at almost any angle (rotation) to accommodate more restrictive or custom setups - something you might not be able to do with the square type blocks.


I agree, honestly I dont have a problem with the asetek design, I was just thinking to be competitive it might help. A lot of folks have AIOs laying around. I have a used H60 and a pair of CM 120s sitting in a box for instance. I would of run those If I could of to save $$$$$. The 140mm H-90s I bought are better but by what? probably 3 degrees or so max? I think the biggest thing they could do to level the field would simply be a heatsink kit for the vrms and vram. And it would require a little work to come up with some sink designs to work in most situations, but not all of course. That combined with the lower price should keep it competitive. The vrm and vram cooling is the only thing i see in the Corsair unit that is superior really. That and the fan using the gpu header (I know its not a big deal and is easily adapted but people are looking for out of the box easy). I dont like the fan on the Corsair unit although im hearing good things about its performance and quietness. Im just not a fan of the design.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I agree, honestly I dont have a problem with the asetek design, I was just thinking to be competitive it might help. A lot of folks have AIOs laying around. I have a used H60 and a pair of CM 120s sitting in a box for instance. I would of run those If I could of to save $$$$$. The 140mm H-90s I bought are better but by what? probably 3 degrees or so max? I think the biggest thing they could do to level the field would simply be a heatsink kit for the vrms and vram. And it would require a little work to come up with some sink designs to work in most situations, but not all of course. That combined with the lower price should keep it competitive. The vrm and vram cooling is the only thing i see in the Corsair unit that is superior really. That and the fan using the gpu header (I know its not a big deal and is easily adapted but people are looking for out of the box easy). I dont like the fan on the Corsair unit although im hearing good things about its performance and quietness. Im just not a fan of the design.


Yeah, it certainly doesn't hurt to cool the vram by sticking on some little heatsinks - I don't have anything on mine and they can handle +200mhz no problem. But the VRMs for sure need proper cooling. I got lucky with my card as it already has a nice VRM heatsink/strap pre-installed by Gigabyte which works perfectly with the 92mm fan. Running naked VRMs I would be very cautious/concerned. It would be tricky to come up with a universal VRM heatsink to accommodate so many different PCB layouts/variations, but again, not impossible. There will always be some odd-ball designs where you'll have to get creative.









On the other hand, most people who are buying and installing G10's, I would assume, have some decent knowledge of how to work with the hardware and "make it work".

But I agree, it's always nice to have everything assemble and work as intended, right out of the box.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

So my Kraken X31 arrived today. I have everything I need to do the G10 onto my 780. I have one reservation though... should I return the X31 and go for a full 240mm Rad? I'm thinking the H105...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> So my Kraken X31 arrived today. I have everything I need to do the G10 onto my 780. I have one reservation though... should I return the X31 and go for a full 240mm Rad? I'm thinking the H105...


The 105 is a really good AIO. I recently installed one on a 4770k for someone and it did great.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Now that the Classified is off to RMA, I'm thinking of trying the G10 with a Kraken x60 on a GTX780ti Matrix.
> Anyone done it yet?
> 
> There is no cooling on the vram with the stock cooler, but there is a vrm heat sink that is screwed on from the back, just like the normal DCUII card.


It will work. You just have to ask NZXT to ship you longer screws and that's what I'm waiting right now. The stock screws are barely sticking out on my 780 Ti DCUII. And if I remove the backplate, there is nothing where you can screw on the vrm heatsink.


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> So my Kraken X31 arrived today. I have everything I need to do the G10 onto my 780. I have one reservation though... should I return the X31 and go for a full 240mm Rad? I'm thinking the H105...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The 105 is a really good AIO. I recently installed one on a 4770k for someone and it did great.


Great idea to upgrade, but don't get the 105, it wont be compatible. Check the header unit on the 105 and the port on the G-10 and you will see what I mean. IIRC, The H50, H55, H90, and H110 are the only compatible CORSAIR watercoolers. Had made the mistake myself a while back, getting two H100i's for a custom build, one for the CPU and one for the GPU. didn't even think about it until I went to install it. Really made me feel dumb. Just a heads up.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> Great idea to upgrade, but don't get the 105, it wont be compatible. Check the header unit on the 105 and the port on the G-10 and you will see what I mean. IIRC, The H50, H55, H90, and H110 are the only compatible CORSAIR watercoolers. Had made the mistake myself a while back, getting two H100i's for a custom build, one for the CPU and one for the GPU. didn't even think about it until I went to install it. Really made me feel dumb. Just a heads up.


Meh i wasnt even thinking of compatability, I was on my "they need to modify the mount for more AIOs" rant earlier. But the 105 is a really nice AIO


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> Great idea to upgrade, but don't get the 105, it wont be compatible. Check the header unit on the 105 and the port on the G-10 and you will see what I mean. IIRC, The H50, H55, H90, and H110 are the only compatible CORSAIR watercoolers. Had made the mistake myself a while back, getting two H100i's for a custom build, one for the CPU and one for the GPU. didn't even think about it until I went to install it. Really made me feel dumb. Just a heads up.


The H100i and H105 have different blocks. The H105 is on the compatible list while the H100i is not.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> It will work. You just have to ask NZXT to ship you longer screws and that's what I'm waiting right now. The stock screws are barely sticking out on my 780 Ti DCUII. And if I remove the backplate, there is nothing where you can screw on the vrm heatsink.


Did you leave the foam on the back of the Kraken G10's mounting block?
I've see people remove it to fit on a Classifieds backplate, I'm guessing it would work the same on the Matrix.

How did you find your temps?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The H100i and H105 have different blocks. The H105 is on the compatible list while the H100i is not.


Although that 105 is a really good AIO is probably pretty overkill for this task though. Not that this is a bad thing. Its pretty much the replacement for the H110 isnt it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Did you leave the foam on the back of the Kraken G10's mounting block?
> I've see people remove it to fit on a Classifieds backplate, I'm guessing it would work the same on the Matrix.


On my DCII cooler i skipped the entire NZXT backplate foam and all and just used the ASUS backplate without issue. Its not needed on this application, or at least it wasnt for mine. "should" be true for any of the gpus with a good backplate on them already.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Although that 105 is a really good AIO is probably pretty overkill for this task though. Not that this is a bad thing. Its pretty much the replacement for the H110 isnt it?


Not really, it has a smaller RAD the H110 is 280mm where the H105 is 240mm.
It is technically meant to be able to match the H110 and fit in smaller cases, but in reality it doesn't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> On my DCII cooler i skipped the entire NZXT backplate foam and all and just used the ASUS backplate without issue. Its not needed on this application, or at least it wasnt for mine. "should" be true for any of the gpus with a good backplate on them already.


The Matrix's cooler is just a oversized DCUII cooler, mine makes a vibration when the fan speeds are over 60%.

How are your temps.

Had a duh moment before..Fixed now..


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Did you leave the foam on the back of the Kraken G10's mounting block?
> I've see people remove it to fit on a Classifieds backplate, I'm guessing it would work the same on the Matrix.
> 
> How did you find your temps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Not really, it has a smaller RAD the H110 is 280mm where the H105 is 240mm.
> It is technically meant to be able to match the H110 and fit in smaller cases, but in reality it doesn't.
> The Matrix's cooler is just a oversized DCUII cooler, mine makes a vibration when the fan speeds are over 60%.
> 
> How are your temps.


The 105 is the double thick radiator if I am not mistaken though, like the H80i. I have the H110 on the CPU.

I have actually had some time to do some testing on a variety of the games I play the last few days. My temps are 45 to 50C gaming. Benchmarking with valley and firestrike I have not gotten it over 60C yet but im hitting 55 to 58C.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The 105 is the double thick radiator if I am not mistaken though, like the H80i. I have the H110 on the CPU.
> 
> I have actually had some time to do some testing on a variety of the games I play the last few days. My temps are 45 to 50C gaming. Benchmarking with valley and firestrike I have not gotten it over 60C yet but im hitting 55 to 58C.


I have a H110 on my CPU and now I have a Kraken x60 on the Matrix.

It hit 43c in Futremark, and 41c in 6 runs of Metro LL Benchmark.
For some reason when the fan is unplugged from the Matrix you can't use the Display port only the DVI ports, first off I thought I'd killed the card!!!
But then I swapped ports and it was fine, double check by plugging in the gpu fan again with the display port connected and I got video.

Still not sure whether to use the Kraken fan control or just leave it set, they were originally bottom intakes, I just sat the RAD on top (easy GPU removal) and didn't change the fan speed setting...

Here is a pic of the TIM Asus had on this card. I was pulling of clumps, I kid you not, it nearly filled all the surrounding green PCB.
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140814_100512_zpsb1f078f7.jpg.html

One thing I noticed is the included fan is a liitle loud, but I have got it running at 100% as I can't monitor VRM temps on the Matrix.
The card itself feels cooler to touch.

I think they changed the bracket a bit from the first revsion, mine didn't come with plastic lugs, it came with nuts to hold the bolts in place, also the foam was a little long too, so the pump was harder to tighten on that side, but given the temps I'm guessing its sitting flush...
Doesn't look bowed at all to you guys, some of the hex nuts didn't fit in the back plates holes properly.
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140814_120700_zps979b6c2c.jpg.html

Not pretty, but you can't see any black cables once the side panel is on due to the black tinting.
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140814_120348_zpsed3f69fb.jpg.html


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I have a H110 on my CPU and now I have a Kraken x60 on the Matrix.
> 
> It hit 43c in Futremark, and 41c in 6 runs of Metro LL Benchmark.
> For some reason when the fan is unplugged from the Matrix you can't use the Display port only the DVI ports, first off I thought I'd killed the card!!!
> But then I swapped ports and it was fine, double check by plugging in the gpu fan again with the display port connected and I got video.
> 
> Still not sure whether to use the Kraken fan control or just leave it set, they were originally bottom intakes, I just sat the RAD on top (easy GPU removal) and didn't change the fan speed setting...
> 
> Here is a pic of the TIM Asus had on this card. I was pulling of clumps, I kid you not, it nearly filled all the surrounding green PCB.
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140814_100512_zpsb1f078f7.jpg.html
> 
> One thing I noticed is the included fan is a liitle loud, but I have got it running at 100% as I can't monitor VRM temps on the Matrix.
> The card itself feels cooler to touch.
> 
> I think they changed the bracket a bit from the first revsion, mine didn't come with plastic lugs, it came with nuts to hold the bolts in place, also the foam was a little long too, so the pump was harder to tighten on that side, but given the temps I'm guessing its sitting flush...
> Doesn't look bowed at all to you guys, some of the hex nuts didn't fit in the back plates holes properly.
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140814_120700_zps979b6c2c.jpg.html
> 
> Not pretty, but you can't see any black cables once the side panel is on due to the black tinting.
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140814_120348_zpsed3f69fb.jpg.html


Those are great temps.

I dont think I can get mine any better without a custom loop. The two cards in SLI still get heat saturated and put off some heat in the case and running multiple monitors heats them up a little more too. But im happy with the numbers im getting. Especially if you consider i was getting close to 80C before on air. Those numbers I listed above also include the overclock on the card. GPU 1 is maxing out at 1394 boost with a mem overclock of +400 to +600 depending on the profile im using at the time. GPU 2 is maxing out at 1382 boost with a +400 to +600 mem overclock.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Those are great temps.
> 
> I dont think I can get mine any better without a custom loop. The two cards in SLI still get heat saturated and put off some heat in the case and running multiple monitors heats them up a little more too. But im happy with the numbers im getting. Especially if you consider i was getting close to 80C before on air.


Now I'm in the holey crap moment, just been playing Watch_Dogs for about 30 minutes.
I didn't go over 43c, I'm in complete shock, I was so hesitant to put this thing on, (was scare I was going to over tighten and brake the GPU or bow the card.)
Still a little worried about the VRM temps, as I can't monitor them, and I've lowered the 92mm fan's speed to 70%, but surely they would have to be cooler too.

The big test is when the babies are in bed and the noise it makes in a dead quiet room..lol


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Now I'm in the holey crap moment, just been playing Watch_Dogs for about 30 minutes.
> I didn't go over 43c, I'm in complete shock, I was so hesitant to put this thing on, (was scare I was going to over tighten and brake the GPU or bow the card.)
> Still a little worried about the VRM temps, as I can't monitor them, and I've lowered the 92mm fan's speed to 70%, but surely they would have to be cooler too.
> 
> The big test is when the babies are in bed and the noise it makes in a dead quiet room..lol


It is pretty awesome when you see 20-25 degrees or more drop while under heavy gaming and whisper quiet.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> It is pretty awesome when you see 20-25 degrees or more drop while under heavy gaming and whisper quiet.


Ya, it is remarkable. I finally finished setting up my EVGA GTX 780 SC + G10 + Kraken X31(push/pull) + Heatsinks and I am very happy with the results. Setting it up was a PAIN, but it was worth it in the end. I will post some pictures and a guide of my experience soon.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ya, it is remarkable. I finally finished setting up my EVGA GTX 780 SC + G10 + Kraken X31(push/pull) + Heatsinks and I am very happy with the results. Setting it up was a PAIN, but it was worth it in the end. I will post some pictures and a guide of my experience soon.


You took pictures, I should of would of helped others with the same card, but its hard with a little one running around, you try to get it done ASAP...lol
But don't do what I did, I fiddled after first seating the cooler, took it out because I didn't like the position of the foam, moved it, a little, which unseated the pump, was getting instant 80c when firing up Furmark.
Anyway tightened the screw to the point where it was too hard to use your fingers anymore, and gave 1 twist with the screwdriver, so my temps are 3c higher, so instead of 41c in Metro LL, I'm getting 44c.
Though it is warmer in the house so I don't know, I just know nothing pushes the GPU over constant 45c (seen a split second 46c on Furmark), the Noctua's on the RAD are at 60%, might lower the RPM's a little.
Idle temps are 26/27c

Still better than the 82c in Risen 3, Watch_Dogs and Metro Last Light benchmark I was getting last night...









Still concerned about bowing, but it doesn't look like I did, and the card has been running fine for over and hour, guess that's the being overly careful OCD I have..lol..


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Now I'm in the holey crap moment, just been playing Watch_Dogs for about 30 minutes.
> I didn't go over 43c, I'm in complete shock, I was so hesitant to put this thing on, (was scare I was going to over tighten and brake the GPU or bow the card.)
> Still a little worried about the VRM temps, as I can't monitor them, and I've lowered the 92mm fan's speed to 70%, but surely they would have to be cooler too.
> 
> The big test is when the babies are in bed and the noise it makes in a dead quiet room..lol


I played watchdogs last night for about an hour and never went over 45C. Im definitely pleased with the results of this mod. A couple hours of Sniper Elite 3 also never went over 45C. As i mentioned, before my numbers were card 1 79C and card 2 77C before the mod. So no complaints here. Also, the numbers I listed a couple of posts above and the 45C temps in Watchdogs and SE3 also include the overclock on the cards. GPU 1 is maxing out at 1394 boost with a mem overclock of +400 to +600 depending on the profile im using at the time. GPU 2 is maxing out at 1382 boost with a +400 to +600 mem overclock.

I have ordered some different fans for pulling on the 140mm radiators to quiet them down some. But even if they never get whisper quiet, I can not really hear anything over the games when playing.I will take the heat reduction any day.

That TIM job they did on that gpu in the pic has to be one of the worst I have ever seen.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I played watchdogs last night for about an hour and never went over 45C. Im definitely pleased with the results of this mod. A couple hours of Sniper Elite 3 also never went over 45C. As i mentioned, before my numbers were card 1 79C and card 2 77C before the mod. So no complaints here. Also, the numbers I listed a couple of posts above and the 45C temps in Watchdogs and SE3 also include the overclock on the cards.


What speed is your fan running at?
I got 45c with no overclock (Boost is 1140Mhz anyway), but my fans are only at 46%, this is in WD and SE 3 (SE3 really heats up a card, it surprised me.)
Temps went up a little after I fiddled around with the foam, it was raising the back up too high and had the bracket on an angle.
I didn't remove and re-tim the cooler, but it was obvious it wasn't making proper contact after moving the foam, would hit 80c instantly, but after carefully tightening the screws temps went down.
Was really scared of over tightening the mounting nuts or bowing the card and cracking the die.

This is what it looks like now:
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140814_211203_zps759039a7.jpg.html


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> What speed is your fan running at?
> I got 45c with no overclock (Boost is 1140Mhz anyway), but my fans are only at 46%, this is in WD and SE 3 (SE3 really heats up a card, it surprised me.)
> Temps went up a little after I fiddled around with the foam, it was raising the back up too high and had the bracket on an angle.
> I didn't remove and re-tim the cooler, but it was obvious it wasn't making proper contact after moving the foam, would hit 80c instantly, but after carefully tightening the screws temps went down.
> Was really scared of over tightening the mounting nuts or bowing the card and cracking the die.
> 
> This is what it looks like now:
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140814_211203_zps759039a7.jpg.html


I have two spectre pro 140s on the radiators at 80%. The fans on the G-10 brackets are connected to a board header and should be wide open.

As for the overclock, i was pleased with how well they did. The ASUS cards have the voltage locked at 1.212. I maxed that and put the power target to 110% and they are boosting to the 1394 and 1382 respectively. I plan to do the hotwire mod in the near future so I can gain some more voltage. Im hoping for mid 1400s.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I have two spectre pro 140s on the radiators at 80%.
> 
> As for the overclock, i was pleased with how well they did. The ASUS cards have the voltage locked at 1.212. I maxed that and put the power target to 110% and they are boosting to the 1394 and 1382 respectively. I plan to do the hotwire mod in the near future so I can gain some more voltage. Im hoping for mid 1400s.


Ah so my temps are fine for a GTX780ti, you're running GTX770's aren't you?

I think the Matrix is locked to, but you need the addon card to push it further from what I understand, though I've seen in the GTX780ti owners thread someone has killed 2 overclocking too far.
Bought mine because I wanted something reliable, and other than the stock cooler really sucking, everything else is good, including no coil whine...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Ah so my temps are fine for a GTX780ti, you're running GTX770's aren't you?
> 
> I think the Matrix is locked to, but you need the addon card to push it further from what I understand, though I've seen in the GTX780ti owners thread someone has killed 2 overclocking too far.
> Bought mine because I wanted something reliable, and other than the stock cooler really sucking, everything else is good, including no coil whine...


Yes I an running 770Sli. The hotwire mod is easy enough but you can definitely overvolt to much and you can burn your gpu up. Thats one reason I am only shooting for mid 1400s. If I can get the boost to mid 1400s and my memory upto the 7800+ range, I will be happy. I think.


----------



## dante`afk

just stumbled over this thread, wow. did not even know this coolers exist.

cooling temperatures look equal to a regular watercooling build with EK/XSPC blocks? mindblowing.

Think im gonna get the x60 for gpu and x40 for cpu, much cheaper. whats the difference to the x61 and x41 models?

how do you cool off the other parts of the gpu though?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> just stumbled over this thread, wow. did not even know this coolers exist.
> 
> cooling temperatures look equal to a regular watercooling build with EK/XSPC blocks? mindblowing.
> 
> Think im gonna get the x60 for gpu and x40 for cpu, much cheaper.
> 
> how do you cool off the other parts of the gpu though?


The fan blows directly on the vrms and most of the VRAM and you wont have any issues unless you run high OC's. Of course, thats why were here







Heatsinks can be added to the VRMs and VRAM and with that addition the fan provides adequate cooling even for high overclocks. I know this to be the case on the VRM heatsink anyway as mine are sinked. I have my memory OC'd +400 stable with no heat sinks. I can do +600 most of the time. I have heatsinks on the way to help solve this issue hopefully. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18468/vid-224/Akust_Copper_Ramsink_Chip_Heatsink_-_22mm_x_8mm_x_5mm_-_8_Pack_RS00-0604-AKS.html

There are also adapters to give the gpu back control of the fan

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13314/cab-454/Gelid_Solutions_PWM_Fan_Adapter_for_VGA_Cards_CA-PWM-02.html

And of course 3 pin extenders for the pump leads if your board headers are to far away.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1091/cab-07/12_3_Pin_Extension_Cable.html

you will probably have fewer issues with the Kraken cooling kits I would imagine ( I do not know for sure) but there are several AIOs out there to choose from that will work with the bracket.


----------



## dante`afk

thanks.

guess one x61 should suffice for the moment, on the gpu.

the temp difference with noctua nh-d14 and x41 on a cpu are literally zero


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> thanks.
> 
> guess one x61 should suffice for the moment, on the gpu.
> 
> the temp difference with noctua nh-d14 and x41 on a cpu are literally zero


I'm running a Kraken x60 on mine, GPU has yet to go over 46c in anything (including Furmark), I have the motherboard controlling the fans, and are set at low RPM (46%).
But I'm using Noctua NF-A14's not the stock NZXT fans, which I find too loud.

My GTX780ti is idling this morning at 24c, but it was a cold morning..lol
It was around this time I was getting 43c in Furmark, explains the 4c higher temps lastnight..lol


----------



## PJFT808

I never got around to installing my 2nd G10. But, since I cant take the time to turn off my PC when fiddling with something in my case.







I'll put this up lol


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I'm running a Kraken x60 on mine, GPU has yet to go over 46c in anything (including Furmark), I have the motherboard controlling the fans, and are set at low RPM (46%).
> But I'm using Noctua NF-A14's not the stock NZXT fans, which I find too loud.
> 
> My GTX780ti is idling this morning at 24c, but it was a cold morning..lol
> It was around this time I was getting 43c in Furmark, explains the 4c higher temps lastnight..lol


Does your X60's pump have a distinctive rattling noise to it? My X31 has a very bad rattling sound coming from the pump, regardless of speed.
Also, what is the static pressure rating for the Noctua NF-A14s?


----------



## PJFT808

Since I'm on, my cpu is using the x60 too. It rattled very faintly took me a second to figure out what it was. I got worried, but I since I always carry my pc out to the garage and dust every few weeks. I realized it may have tilted too much. So I took the hoses and wiggled them a bit, moved them up slightly. Basicly the hoses where routed opposite of that picture- down and then up. I haven't heard the noise since.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Does your X60's pump have a distinctive rattling noise to it? My X31 has a very bad rattling sound coming from the pump, regardless of speed.
> Also, what is the static pressure rating for the Noctua NF-A14s?


I don't have a rattling noise, I have a pump buzz, but so does my H110.
Fan's don't go over 50% now, so I sacrificed a little heat (1-3c) for quieter fan speeds, but still doesn't go over 50c.
I'm going to try Planet Explorers, that game heats up cards more than anything I've ever seen, it uses OpenCL on CUDA as well as the processing for the graphics itself.

Noctua NF-A14 PWM details:
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=65&lng=en&set=1

Static Pressure 2,08 mm H2O
Static Pressure with L.N.A. 1,51 mm H2O


----------



## dante`afk

would the x61 fit on an 780ti evga sc acx?

schoolofmonkey, what OC was possible on your card before and AFTER you installed the x60?


----------



## 2tired

i bought the ge vrm heat sink kit. My problem is the the thermal pads for heatsink A or whatever arent stick on both sides. How do they expect people to mount the heatsink on top of the vrm? This is really giving me a headache. Can I use the thermal pads that were underneath my r9 290 stock heatsink? They are thicker so Im not sure if its a problem

thanks


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2tired*
> 
> i bought the ge vrm heat sink kit. My problem is the the thermal pads for heatsink A or whatever arent stick on both sides. How do they expect people to mount the heatsink on top of the vrm? This is really giving me a headache. Can I use the thermal pads that were underneath my r9 290 stock heatsink? They are thicker so Im not sure if its a problem
> 
> thanks


maybe there's a film/coating on the pads you have to remove?


----------



## 2tired

someone please help


----------



## 2tired

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> maybe there's a film/coating on the pads you have to remove?


tried removing whatever i could

seems like this guy had the same problem
Quote:


> Cons: Weirdly, the thermal pads for the VRM2 weren't double sided, so I don't really know how that was supposed to work.
> 
> I stuck some tiny ones I had on the VRM2 instead. Couldn't hurt.
> 
> And it came with 1 RAM heatsink, which is totally useless, obviously. VRAM doesn't overheat, let's be honest. Not a big deal. VRM's on the other hand....


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426042

can i reuse the thermal pads under my gpu?


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Did you leave the foam on the back of the Kraken G10's mounting block?
> I've see people remove it to fit on a Classifieds backplate, I'm guessing it would work the same on the Matrix.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Although that 105 is a really good AIO is probably pretty overkill for this task though. Not that this is a bad thing. Its pretty much the replacement for the H110 isnt it?
> On my DCII cooler i skipped the entire NZXT backplate foam and all and just used the ASUS backplate without issue. Its not needed on this application, or at least it wasnt for mine. "should" be true for any of the gpus with a good backplate on them already.


I tried using my remaining three screws as I'm waiting for the longer screws. I you remember, my last screw was defective, no thread at all.

My card artifacts so bad. If this happens, you just need to tighten the nuts?

By the way I put back my old cooler and fixed the artifacts.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2tired*
> 
> someone please help


You can try buying some of this stuff:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271530851540?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> I tried using my remaining three screws as I'm waiting for the longer screws. I you remember, my last screw was defective, no thread at all.
> 
> My card artifacts so bad. If this happens, you just need to tighten the nuts?
> 
> By the way I put back my old cooler and fixed the artifacts.


Well you've seen my post further up, so you can see the temps you'll get, max of 46c (47c tonight for some reason, it is warmer in the house) on the stock Matrix clocks.
It would be impossible to mount the pump without the 4 screws, that explains the artifacts, I haven't had any.
The scariest part for me was tightening the nuts, if you under tighten them you get instant 80c and throttle, if you over tighten you can bow the card or crack the GPU die.
But I've had mine tightened for a day and the card is still running, so I'm guessing if I did break anything it would of died by now.....wouldn't it...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> would the x61 fit on an 780ti evga sc acx?
> 
> schoolofmonkey, what OC was possible on your card before and AFTER you installed the x60?


I was ever game to OC prior due to the stupidly high stock clock temps on the Matrix (81/82c).
When I get time I will try to overclock now it has the Kraken on. Don't want to push it too far though, it will be a warranty fight if I kill it.

On another note, I heard back from Asus about the Matrix high temps, they claim the fan noise and the temps are all normal, even though their marketing states 70c.
Trust Asus.


----------



## dante`afk

question:

how come that the x60/x61 cools compared to high end air coolers like noctua dh14 equal in temperatures on the CPU, but much cooler on the gpu? I have no results of gpu cooling other than what schoolofmonkey said. (max 46/47 on load furmark)

can anyone tell me his temps with 1.212v with a x60/x61 on load?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> I tried using my remaining three screws as I'm waiting for the longer screws. I you remember, my last screw was defective, no thread at all.
> 
> My card artifacts so bad. If this happens, you just need to tighten the nuts?
> 
> By the way I put back my old cooler and fixed the artifacts.


Did you start having artifacts immediately or was it after the card had time to heat up?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2tired*
> 
> i bought the ge vrm heat sink kit. My problem is the the thermal pads for heatsink A or whatever arent stick on both sides. How do they expect people to mount the heatsink on top of the vrm? This is really giving me a headache. Can I use the thermal pads that were underneath my r9 290 stock heatsink? They are thicker so Im not sure if its a problem
> 
> thanks


I don't think it has to be double sided just stick the thermal pad to the heatsink and the pad is thermally conductive no matter what side you should be fine. If you see on the back of the NZXT Kraken G10 bracket it has that pad, believe it or not its not just there for protecting the back of the GPU socket its thermally conductive to help absorb the heat....


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> question:
> 
> how come that the x60/x61 cools compared to high end air coolers like noctua dh14 equal in temperatures on the CPU, but much cooler on the gpu? I have no results of gpu cooling other than what schoolofmonkey said. (max 46/47 on load furmark)
> 
> can anyone tell me his temps with 1.212v with a x60/x61 on load?


GPU puts out a lot less heat


----------



## dante`afk

just ordered the x61 for the gpu, lets see temps.

i am currently running 70-75c depending on the game with the mk26 + 140mm on 1150mhz at 1.125v

i hope for lower temps and thus better OC capability

can you mount a 140mm fan on the G10?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> just ordered the x61 for the gpu, lets see temps.
> 
> i am currently running 70-75c depending on the game with the mk26 + 140mm on 1150mhz at 1.125v
> 
> i hope for lower temps and thus better OC capability
> 
> can you mount a 140mm fan on the G10?


No, it has a space for a 92mm only. You might could redrill and go a little bigger but you wont get much more. I would go for the 140mm radiator and fan on whatever AIO you get if anything.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Did you start having artifacts immediately or was it after the card had time to heat up?


From the start. Max temp I hit was 64C though. Why is that artifact show when only at this temps?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> From the start. Max temp I hit was 64C though. Why is that artifact show when only at this temps?


Im confused. Are the artifacts there right when you turn the machine on, or only after the gpu hits ~64C?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im confused. Are the artifacts there right when you turn the machine on, or only after the gpu hits ~64C?


From how I took it, the game/benchmark artifiacts from the moments it loads, but with temps of 64c there shouldn't be a problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> From the start. Max temp I hit was 64C though. Why is that artifact show when only at this temps?


And you don't get this with the stock cooler right?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> GPU puts out a lot less heat


GPUs also have more surface area which helps.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> question:
> 
> how come that the x60/x61 cools compared to high end air coolers like noctua dh14 equal in temperatures on the CPU, but much cooler on the gpu? I have no results of gpu cooling other than what schoolofmonkey said. (max 46/47 on load furmark)
> 
> can anyone tell me his temps with 1.212v with a x60/x61 on load?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> GPU puts out a lot less heat


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> GPUs also have more surface area which helps.


GPU's actually put off more heat. More than CPUs. The difference is that with the GPU, the contact is between the cooling block and GPU die directly. There's no "lid" or "cover" like there is on a CPU and this translates into much better heat transfer. With my CPU running at 100% load, the rad remains warm to the touch at most. Yet with the GPU under full load or heavy gaming, I can't even touch the rad, it gets that hot (though the GPU temps show 50 degrees or less). And all that heat is being drawn from the GPU die. Pretty crazy when you think about it.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> GPU's actually put off more heat. More than CPUs. The difference is that with the GPU, the contact is between the cooling block and GPU die directly. There's no "lid" or "cover" like there is on a CPU and this translates into much better heat transfer. With my CPU running at 100% load, the rad remains warm to the touch at most. Yet with the GPU under full load or heavy gaming, I can't even touch the rad, it gets that hot (though the GPU temps show 50 degrees or less). And all that heat is being drawn from the GPU die. Pretty crazy when you think about it.


So I'm guessing this is why its harder to cooler the GPU RAD, and you need more fan speed.
I've felt the heat coming off my RAD when the GPU is under stress, it gets too hot to touch for to long, but the GPU is sitting at 45c.
I have the fans at a higher RPM than needed, realistically you don't need to GPU sitting at that low of temperature, anything in the mid 50's is fine for a AIO/Kraken G10 combo..
But my temp OCD won't let me, I go a reconfigure the fan settings if I hit 50c...lol....

What I have noticed, when you have the RAD in pull the hot air exiting the fans is a lot cooler than the hot air exiting the RAD in as push setup.
Seems to cool a lot better too.
This is good if you have the GPU rad as an intake like myself.


----------



## flopper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> GPU's actually put off more heat. More than CPUs. The difference is that with the GPU, the contact is between the cooling block and GPU die directly. There's no "lid" or "cover" like there is on a CPU and this translates into much better heat transfer. With my CPU running at 100% load, the rad remains warm to the touch at most. Yet with the GPU under full load or heavy gaming, I can't even touch the rad, it gets that hot (though the GPU temps show 50 degrees or less). And all that heat is being drawn from the GPU die. Pretty crazy when you think about it.


Put a corsair H55 for my CPU and works really well to cool it.
I then put my custom loop to cool the GPU which requries a lot more cooling.
Overclocking the 290 I have really loads the temps.

My initial idea was to use the H55 for the GPU but it couldnt handle the load I wanted it to.
It all worked out though.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> What I have noticed, when you have the RAD in pull the hot air exiting the fans is a lot cooler than the hot air exiting the RAD in as push setup.
> Seems to cool a lot better too.
> This is good if you have the GPU rad as an intake like myself.


Have you tried it on both intake and exhaust? I realize I have two gpus and two radiators dumping heat, but I have them pulling on the radiators out of the case and the amount of heat is tremendous. My system is near the door to the hallway where the thermostat and air intake for the house AC system is and after gaming for a half hour or so the thermostat goes up a degree and the AC is kicking on LOL. I know pulling into the case would be a bad idea for me anyway. I have a system of 5 temp sensors in the case from my fan controller and they stay under 95f with the air circuit I have. and two of the sensors are mounted on the top of the NZXT brackets over the vrm area.


----------



## ElPolako85

Hello guys, G10 it's compatible with the MSI Lightning 7970?Thanks


----------



## Lou HM

I used it on my previous two HD 7970's however I needed a shim in order to made proper contact with the gpu and the AIO... Yet I didn't use a Lighthing edition card.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Have you tried it on both intake and exhaust? I realize I have two gpus and two radiators dumping heat, but I have them pulling on the radiators out of the case and the amount of heat is tremendous. My system is near the door to the hallway where the thermostat and air intake for the house AC system is and after gaming for a half hour or so the thermostat goes up a degree and the AC is kicking on LOL. I know pulling into the case would be a bad idea for me anyway. I have a system of 5 temp sensors in the case from my fan controller and they stay under 95f with the air circuit I have. and two of the sensors are mounted on the top of the NZXT brackets over the vrm area.


I've only tried the GPU RAD as in intake, I would like to top mount it, but the Corsair H110 on the CPU won't reach anywhere else.
But I'm thinking about mounting it as an exhaust to the front of my case (Enthoo Primo), but the air will then have to pass through the HDD cage and over the hard drives.

I don't know how well it would exhaust out the bottom, but that would lead to a bad case of negative pressure as there would only be front intakes.
Here's the setup now, the white stuff under the RAD is foam to stop vibrations.
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140818_084141_zpsbe18a251.jpg.html


----------



## ElPolako85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lou HM*
> 
> I used it on my previous two HD 7970's however I needed a shim in order to made proper contact with the gpu and the AIO... Yet I didn't use a Lighthing edition card.


Yes on the reference 7970 require the use of a shim.
But on the Lightning it's not the same and i want to be sure that he works on the Lightning.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I've only tried the GPU RAD as in intake, I would like to top mount it, but the Corsair H110 on the CPU won't reach anywhere else.
> But I'm thinking about mounting it as an exhaust to the front of my case (Enthoo Primo), but the air will then have to pass through the HDD cage and over the hard drives.
> 
> I don't know how well it would exhaust out the bottom, but that would lead to a bad case of negative pressure as there would only be front intakes.
> Here's the setup now, the white stuff under the RAD is foam to stop vibrations.
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140818_084141_zpsbe18a251.jpg.html


Can you change the cpu radiator to the front as an intake. Then use the rear and top fans to exhaust.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Can you change the cpu radiator to the front as an intake. Then use the rear and top fans to exhaust.


I'd have to switch pumps physically, putting the Kraken on the CPU and the H110 on the Matrix due to the H110 pipes being so short.

If you see the bottom grill on the picture, you can mount another 120mm or 140mm fan there, it might be worth doing that to exhaust the hot air straight off the rad out the back..

I'm not really having temp issues as per say, cpu is under 60c while gaming (4790k), but it does cause the motherboard vrm's to heat up more.


----------



## ElPolako85

I found a used Zalman Reseraor 3 at a good price,but it is compatible with the G10?Thanks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElPolako85*
> 
> I found a used Zalman Reseraor 3 at a good price,but it is compatible with the G10?Thanks.


Im not sure if this one uses the ASETEK mounting system or not. I know a lot of their other stuff did. if it looks like this, your good to go with the G-10.


----------



## momentum

Since i had a Antec 620 laying around i though i'll give it a try. So i bought today a G10 and assembly everything on my 770 POV factory OC.
I dont know whats wrong with it, im idling around 9-10C above ambient which is pretty much the same as the POV's cooler but when i start a bench temperature climbs within seconds to 80C+.
I cleaned both surfaces meticulously and i applied a small amount of Arctic Silver Ceramique. Pump and fan are running like crazy.

HALP!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Since i had a Antec 620 laying around i though i'll give it a try. So i bought today a G10 and assembly everything on my 770 POV factory OC.
> I dont know whats wrong with it, im idling around 9-10C above ambient which is pretty much the same as the POV's cooler but when i start a bench temperature climbs within seconds to 80C+.
> I cleaned both surfaces meticulously and i applied a small amount of Arctic Silver Ceramique. Pump and fan are running like crazy.
> 
> HALP!


Reseat the cooler on the gpu. It sounds like it is not sitting flush. When you disassemble it take a pic of the TIM and lets us take a look.


----------



## ElPolako85

Just found this : http://www.legitreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/zalman_reserator_3_max_006-645x645.jpg

It's possible to use an adapter ( if it exists ) for he goes to the g 10?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElPolako85*
> 
> I found a used Zalman Reseraor 3 at a good price,but it is compatible with the G10?Thanks.


Unfortunitly unless you have a make shift adapter which doesn't exist at this point; this Cooler wont work. The way the Kraken G10 works it uses teeth that line up with the ASUSTEK teeth to keep the cooler snug to the GPU.


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Reseat the cooler on the gpu. It sounds like it is not sitting flush. When you disassemble it take a pic of the TIM and lets us take a look.


There you go brotha, what do you think?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> There you go brotha, what do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not enough thermal paste.


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Not enough thermal paste.


Thanks for the respond. Can anyone else confirm this?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Thanks for the respond. Can anyone else confirm this?


It doesn't have enough thermal paste and doesn't look like it was sitting flat on your gpu either.


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> It doesn't have enough thermal paste and doesn't look like it was sitting flat on your gpu either.


Yes i can tell. The left bottom corner isnt touching the copper whatsoever. Do you think that this can explain this short of behavior?


----------



## ldewitt

Just an update on my system and small walkthrough on how to put a Kraken G10 on Properly.

After VRAM + VRM Heatsinks have been applied.

Applying Thermal Paste.

Holding top of cooler snug to Kraken G10 to put in line with 4 screw posts





Securing the screws on the post turning each little by little making my way around

Putting the GPU in the PCI-E slot

Plugging the Cooler pump in

Placing my temp probe where i want it

Done!


Other pictures of updated rig:


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Yes i can tell. The left bottom corner isnt touching the copper whatsoever. Do you think that this can explain this short of behavior?


Most definitely mine was the same way, i would sit idle just fine, then once i started heaven bench mark temps sky rocketed and heaven benchmark crashed kept trying kept trying eventually my nvidia driver started crashing i took the Kraken off reseated and made sure i tightened each screw little by little checking if the block was sitting flush with the GPU and now i'm rocking hard no issues!


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Most definitely mine was the same way, i would sit idle just fine, then once i started heaven bench mark temps sky rocketed and heaven benchmark crashed kept trying kept trying eventually my nvidia driver started crashing i took the Kraken off reseated and made sure i tightened each screw little by little checking if the block was sitting flush with the GPU and now i'm rocking hard no issues!


Ok then im gonna give another try with more paste this time.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Ok then im gonna give another try with more paste this time.


I'd say you had enough thermal paste - the block was just not seated properly on the GPU. If you do use more TIM, only use a TINY bit more...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Ok then im gonna give another try with more paste this time.


When you tighten the cooler, do it in an alternating sequence with the corners.

Think of an X with one point being north, one south, one east and one west.
As you tighten it down, do it in half turn increments going N to S to E to W until you reach the point where its on tightly enough to where you can not not move it around on the gpu from side to side and also, more importantly, your not bending the PCB of the card.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Idlewit

I love the look of your system, especially the hoses.


----------



## PaparasGT

I have a gtx 580 superclocked DS from EVGA and I'm really concidering getting a Kraken G10 with a Corsair H75. With some heatsinks the price goes up to 120 euros.
I have some questions:
First. Does it worth the money? I am not planning to upgrade for another 1-2 years, unless something big dies on me. My card is quite warm and loud. It starts on idle at 40-46 degrees and rises up to 95-99 (last summer playing Crysis 3 and Battlefield. This summer hasn' t gone more than 87. Don' t know why). What really bothers me in my rig is the high temperature inside my case that comes from my card.
Second. Will it drop my temps? I've seen some that say it dropped theirs temps to 30-35 and others at 40 but on load no more than 65. My advient temperature in my room goes from 20 on winter up to 32 in summer.
Third. Do I need heatsinks on my VRAMs and on VRMs? I found some for the RAMs that are 6mm height. Do they fit under the Kraken?
Fourth. Is the preapplied thermal paste of the H75 good enough to use it with a GPU? My H100's for my CPU was quite good.

Thanks in advance for any helpfull answer I may recieve.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Seeing I can't mount the AIO RAD to exhaust the GPU heat other than out the bottom I tried this:

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140819_175050_zps8c25cd39.jpg.html

Its blowing across the hot exhaust air and out the back, this adds some cooler air which in theory should cool the exhausting air down a little before hitting the CPU RAD.

Still not sure whether I should keep it in - out or have both in and let the top rear and top RAD exhaust all the hot air..


----------



## momentum

Well, in my case everything went better that expected. As photo's of the first attempt suggested, the waterblock wasn't placed nowhere near correctly. IMO the amount of thermal paste wasn't an issue nonetheless, i was tempted to add a little bit just before the second try.

I had trouble mounting correctly the waterblock because NZXT thought that the length of the included screws is adequate. Turns out that it isn't, not if you have an aftermarket backplate installed.
I did manage however, to mount it correctly and made some fine tuning as to place the block as strait as possible onto the processor.

Now my 770 is idling around +4C and flat out will do +24-25C max. ( above ambient )

Sorry for the language mistakes i'm obviously a non-native speaker. Thanks again guys, advises and suggestions were much appreciated.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> I had trouble mounting correctly the waterblock because NZXT thought that the length of the included screws is adequate. Turns out that it isn't, not if you have an aftermarket backplate installed.


The best way I've found is to pull the foam off the block and have it sit directly on the back plate, it doesn't cause any heat problems and gives the screws that little bit of extra length.
If you remove the foam gently you won't damage it and can use it again if need be.

That's what I did.


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaparasGT*
> 
> I have a gtx 580 superclocked DS from EVGA and I'm really concidering getting a Kraken G10 with a Corsair H75. With some heatsinks the price goes up to 120 euros.
> I have some questions:
> First. Does it worth the money? I am not planning to upgrade for another 1-2 years, unless something big dies on me. My card is quite warm and loud. It starts on idle at 40-46 degrees and rises up to 95-99 (last summer playing Crysis 3 and Battlefield. This summer hasn' t gone more than 87. Don' t know why). What really bothers me in my rig is the high temperature inside my case that comes from my card.
> Second. Will it drop my temps? I've seen some that say it dropped theirs temps to 30-35 and others at 40 but on load no more than 65. My advient temperature in my room goes from 20 on winter up to 32 in summer.
> Third. Do I need heatsinks on my VRAMs and on VRMs? I found some for the RAMs that are 6mm height. Do they fit under the Kraken?
> Fourth. Is the preapplied thermal paste of the H75 good enough to use it with a GPU? My H100's for my CPU was quite good.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any helpfull answer I may recieve.


First of all you should remove the card and give it like a really good air blow. The temperatures that you're reporting are unacceptable for a 580. My old 580 (reference design) was idling around 35-37C (31-33C at winter) and flat out never exceeded 77-79C (~76C max at winter) with slightly raised fan's speed. (still very quiet for a high end gpu).
Even fully oced like ~1GHz core never went above 85-87C. (auto)
Let it be noted that my room's ambient temperatures are extremely similar to yours. Maybe a couple degrees lower on both cases.

That being said if you intent to keep it you should definitely go for the G10. Just make sure you have sufficient cooling at the VRMs and the vram. Temperatures will drastically fall even with the cheapest waterloop you can find like my old Antec 620 currently using in the 770.
Read my last post for the performance of the little guy. Of course 580 will run a bit hotter but no biggie.


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> The best way I've found is to pull the foam off the block and have it sit directly on the back plate, it doesn't cause any heat problems and gives the screws that little bit of extra length.
> If you remove the foam gently you won't damage it and can use it again if need be.
> 
> That's what I did.


I had the foam removed in first place. There wasn't any other way besides custom screws. (which was my plan B)


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaparasGT*
> 
> I have a gtx 580 superclocked DS from EVGA and I'm really concidering getting a Kraken G10 with a Corsair H75. With some heatsinks the price goes up to 120 euros.
> I have some questions:
> First. Does it worth the money? I am not planning to upgrade for another 1-2 years, unless something big dies on me. My card is quite warm and loud. It starts on idle at 40-46 degrees and rises up to 95-99 (last summer playing Crysis 3 and Battlefield. This summer hasn' t gone more than 87. Don' t know why). What really bothers me in my rig is the high temperature inside my case that comes from my card.
> Second. Will it drop my temps? I've seen some that say it dropped theirs temps to 30-35 and others at 40 but on load no more than 65. My advient temperature in my room goes from 20 on winter up to 32 in summer.
> Third. Do I need heatsinks on my VRAMs and on VRMs? I found some for the RAMs that are 6mm height. Do they fit under the Kraken?
> Fourth. Is the preapplied thermal paste of the H75 good enough to use it with a GPU? My H100's for my CPU was quite good.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any helpfull answer I may recieve.


I'd say wait until upgrading your GPU, but then again if you get the Kraken G10 and a AIO Cooler you'll already have that for your next card. But to be honest your VRAM shouldn't need heatsinks but your VRMS will definitely need them.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Idlewit
> 
> I love the look of your system, especially the hoses.


Thanks man! Yeah I wanted something to make those ugly black hoses not such an eye sore in my system so i went with some Primo Anti-Kink Coils and it worked perfect kinda a pain in the a.. to thread around the tubing; time consuming but easy as cake. They recommended the 5/8'' but i went with the 1/2'' and it couldn't of been better......I got them from FrozenCPU:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c289/s715/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_Accessories-Anti-kink_Coils_-_12_OD-Page1.html


----------



## PaparasGT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I'd say wait until upgrading your GPU, but then again if you get the Kraken G10 and a AIO Cooler you'll already have that for your next card. But to be honest your VRAM shouldn't need heatsinks but your VRMS will definitely need them.


The VRMs trouble me too...


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaparasGT*
> 
> The VRMs trouble me too...


Well if this is the card you have:


Then here is where you should need cooling, If your not worried about it don't worry about the VRAM(most people are concerned about high temps of the VRAM so they heatsink them aswell) But here is where your VRAM and VRMS will be located. I advise heatsinks front and back of card for best dissipation:


----------



## PaparasGT

This indeed is my card. I am still searching for heatsinks that will fit under the Kraken. For the VRAMs I think I found some. They are 6mm tall. For the VRMs I found in google some from Enzotech, but I am still searching.
Do you, by chance, have anything to suggest?


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaparasGT*
> 
> This indeed is my card. I am still searching for heatsinks that will fit under the Kraken. For the VRAMs I think I found some. They are 6mm tall. For the VRMs I found in google some from Enzotech, but I am still searching.
> Do you, by chance, have anything to suggest?


Take a look at this guys work. He makes handmade heatsinks in Greece. You should contact him and ask if he can make some in the exact dimensions you need.


----------



## Cozmo85

Refurb H55 for $28 at newegg

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?sdtid=7145166&SID=43ba1ee64a7747329ee2d29e887924fb&AID=10440897&PID=1225267&Item=N82E16835181063&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaparasGT*
> 
> This indeed is my card. I am still searching for heatsinks that will fit under the Kraken. For the VRAMs I think I found some. They are 6mm tall. For the VRMs I found in google some from Enzotech, but I am still searching.
> Do you, by chance, have anything to suggest?


Either these aluminum ones, which i recommend for your VRM since there lighter than the copper ones. I have copper ones on mine which are listed below the aluminum

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007XACV8O&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0KNJJCS4W1C1270NVEPH


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> But to be honest your VRAM shouldn't need heatsinks .


Im going to test this over the weekend. I bought these heatsinks

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18468/vid-224/Akust_Copper_Ramsink_Chip_Heatsink_-_22mm_x_8mm_x_5mm_-_8_Pack_RS00-0604-AKS.html

Right now the max "mostly stable OC i can get on memory is +600 (7600) and the fully stable OC for the memory is +400 (7400). So maybe we will get a good indication on whether it is worth putting heatsinks on the vram this weekend.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Well, in my case everything went better that expected. As photo's of the first attempt suggested, the waterblock wasn't placed nowhere near correctly. IMO the amount of thermal paste wasn't an issue nonetheless, i was tempted to add a little bit just before the second try.
> 
> I had trouble mounting correctly the waterblock because NZXT thought that the length of the included screws is adequate. Turns out that it isn't, not if you have an aftermarket backplate installed.
> I did manage however, to mount it correctly and made some fine tuning as to place the block as strait as possible onto the processor.
> 
> Now my 770 is idling around +4C and flat out will do +24-25C max. ( above ambient )
> 
> Sorry for the language mistakes i'm obviously a non-native speaker. Thanks again guys, advises and suggestions were much appreciated.


Glad it worked out for you. This mod is definitely worth it if one is not interested in the maintenance of a full loop. It returns really good results for the money.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im going to test this over the weekend. I bought these heatsinks
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18468/vid-224/Akust_Copper_Ramsink_Chip_Heatsink_-_22mm_x_8mm_x_5mm_-_8_Pack_RS00-0604-AKS.html
> 
> Right now the max "mostly stable OC i can get on memory is +600 (7600) and the fully stable OC for the memory is +400 (7400). So maybe we will get a good indication on whether it is worth putting heatsinks on the vram this weekend.


So you don't have any heatsinks on the VRAM's at the moment?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Well, in my case everything went better that expected. As photo's of the first attempt suggested, the waterblock wasn't placed nowhere near correctly. IMO the amount of thermal paste wasn't an issue nonetheless, i was tempted to add a little bit just before the second try.
> 
> I had trouble mounting correctly the waterblock because NZXT thought that the length of the included screws is adequate. Turns out that it isn't, not if you have an aftermarket backplate installed.
> I did manage however, to mount it correctly and made some fine tuning as to place the block as strait as possible onto the processor.
> 
> Now my 770 is idling around +4C and flat out will do +24-25C max. ( above ambient )
> 
> Sorry for the language mistakes i'm obviously a non-native speaker. Thanks again guys, advises and suggestions were much appreciated.


Are you typing this right? 4C sounds to good to be true specially when 25C is max?

But i'm glad everything is working correctly now!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> So you don't have any heatsinks on the VRAM's at the moment?


No i did the install before the heatsinks got here, also got some PWM to vga fan adapters as well but will put the fans at 100%so as to compare apples to apples when i benchmark the memory overclocks.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> No i did the install before the heatsinks got here, also got some PWM to vga fan adapters as well but will put the fans at 100%so as to compare apples to apples when i benchmark the memory overclocks.


Thanks appreciated. I might try those heatsinks instead of the square ones i got might fit my VRMS better and stay. Can't get mine to stay to save my life....


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Thanks appreciated. I might try those heatsinks instead of the square ones i got might fit my VRMS better and stay. Can't get mine to stay to save my life....


Yeah I would be lieing if I said I was sure these will stick. But im going to give a shot. I really hate to use the epoxy based material. There is pretty much no going back once you go there isnt it?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah I would be lieing if I said I was sure these will stick. But im going to give a shot. I really hate to use the epoxy based material. There is pretty much no going back once you go there isnt it?


Nope no turning back from there, that's why i haven't done it. I don't want to void my warranty.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Seeing I can't mount the AIO RAD to exhaust the GPU heat other than out the bottom I tried this:
> 
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140819_175050_zps8c25cd39.jpg.html
> 
> Its blowing across the hot exhaust air and out the back, this adds some cooler air which in theory should cool the exhausting air down a little before hitting the CPU RAD.
> 
> Still not sure whether I should keep it in - out or have both in and let the top rear and top RAD exhaust all the hot air..


Consider an experiment and isolate that section of the case. You can test it with a piece of cardboard (I know its ghetto but it will serve your purposes for the test) and if the results are positive then you can fab up some poly or plexiglass or something of that nature to make it look nice. I had some success isolating certain sections of the case with hotter running components in the 8350 based rig I had previously. Just a thought.


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Glad it worked out for you. This mod is definitely worth it if one is not interested in the maintenance of a full loop. It returns really good results for the money.


It sure does. Simplest things are usually the best. Plus its so simple and durable you can't beak it even if you try


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Are you typing this right? 4C sounds to good to be true specially when 25C is max?!


Yes this is accurate. At the time my ambient temperature is 26C and my gpu is idling at 30C. (+4C)
Flat out will do +25C-26C so at current ambient will rise us much as 51-52C.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Yes this is accurate. At the time my ambient temperature is 26C and my gpu is idling at 30C. (+4C)
> Flat out will do +25C-26C so at current ambient will rise us much as 51-52C.


Now it's making sense good temps


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> It sure does. Simplest things are usually the best. Plus its so simple and durable you can't beak it even if you try


IMO even more positives include the fact that, with the exception of the bracket itself, each part of the setup can be replaced and their are numerous choices for each replacement part. It should be a relevant mod for a very long time.


----------



## pdasterly

http://slickdeals.net/share/android_app/fp/128166


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> http://slickdeals.net/share/android_app/fp/128166


Wow, if one is not scared of refurb you can get into this setup (G-10 bracket and H-55) for ~$60. Thats pretty darn good.

Edit: http://slickdeals.net/f/7144556-corsair-hydro-series-h90-aio-watercooler-44-99-w-fs-manuf-refurb?v=1

Thats about half price on the H-90 if anyone wants to go with the 140mm radiators.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Thanks appreciated. I might try those heatsinks instead of the square ones i got might fit my VRMS better and stay. Can't get mine to stay to save my life....


Im also pulling the NZXT Sentry 2 fan controller and one of the optical drives and putting in a pair of these this weekend
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=685728&CatId=501
I have a feeling im going to be sick of cable management by the time I am done.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im also pulling the NZXT Sentry 2 fan controller and one of the optical drives and putting in a pair of these this weekend
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=685728&CatId=501
> I have a feeling im going to be sick of cable management by the time I am done.


Your putting 2 of these in your system?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Your putting 2 of these in your system?


Yeah, I run a lot of fans







Mostly I like having direct control over them. As much as I am a fan (No pun intended







) of ASUS, their fan control software sucks.

Two 140s on the H110, one 140 on each H90, one 140 on the back top, two 120s in the front panel of the case and 3 pumps which will be plugged into the board and of course the two 92mm which will be coming off the controller and back into the gpu for control via kepler. I am adding one more 140 up top and that leaves me expansion room for two more should I ever need it. Im considering doing a push/pull on the H90s.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah, I run a lot of fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mostly I like having direct control over them.
> 
> Two 140s on the H110, one 140 on each H90, one 140 on the back top, two 120s in the front panel of the case and 3 pumps which will be plugged into the board and of course the two 92mm which will be coming off the controller and back into the gpu for control via kepler. I am adding one more 140 up top and that leaves me expansion room for two more should I ever need it. Im considering doing a push/pull on the H90s.


Ah i c because reading on it you can support 3 fans on each connector. I'd like to get a fan controller also, that one is nice but i want one that adjusts the fan speed related to the temperatures. and that one doesn't


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Ah i c because reading on it you can support 3 fans on each connector. I'd like to get a fan controller also, that one is nice but i want one that adjusts the fan speed related to the temperatures. and that one doesn't


No it doesnt allow you to create a fan curve, but it does show voltage which I like. The controller is only 8 watts a channel so even though I did see where they said you could run multiple fans off each connector, it just doesnt seem like a good idea.

The NZXT controller I have is really nice for the money, but it has a molex connector on each cable along with a 3 pin connector and it looks like crap and is hard to manage.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> No it doesnt allow you to create a fan curve, but it does show voltage which I like. The controller is only 8 watts a channel so even though I did see where they said you could run multiple fans off each connector, it just doesnt seem like a good idea.
> 
> The NZXT controller I have is really nice for the money, but it has a molex connector on each cable along with a 3 pin connector and it looks like crap and is hard to manage.


good point 8 watt channel is weak....Yeah the NZXT controllers do look like crap...


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im considering doing a push/pull on the H90s.


I've read on several reviews that the gain on push/pull configuration on H90 is marginally low. Considering the extra noise and all, 1-2C max gain over standard single fan push imo isn't worth it.
BTW if you can make a run on valley and check the temps you getting with the H90 to a single 770 running at around 1.2GHz, that'd be great. Make sure to mark the ambient temp. Thanks!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> I've read on several reviews that the gain on push/pull configuration on H90 is marginally low. Considering the extra noise and all, 1-2C max gain over standard single fan push imo isn't worth it.
> BTW if you can make a run on valley and check the temps you getting with the H90 to a single 770 running at around 1.2GHz, that'd be great. Make sure to mark the ambient temp. Thanks!


You are correct, the gain in cooling performance is not much. however I have fans all over the shop and plenty of time and desire to just play with the build. Its more about that than anything I guess. And one of the biggest advantage of controllers is the fact that you can dial them down. You can actually turn them completely off . My system is quite silent until I want/need the extra cooling and that is when gaming and benching, so the speakers are on and the fans are still pretty quiet. I have played around with them a lot and typically do not see any advantage to running any of the fans wide open through the radiators. 80% is usually enough.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Consider an experiment and isolate that section of the case. You can test it with a piece of cardboard (I know its ghetto but it will serve your purposes for the test) and if the results are positive then you can fab up some poly or plexiglass or something of that nature to make it look nice. I had some success isolating certain sections of the case with hotter running components in the 8350 based rig I had previously. Just a thought.


Was just thinking the same thing actually, getto doesn't bother me, you should of seen the getto Carbine 500R I had, she's sitting on my wife's desk now.
But the air coming out the top actually feels cooler with your hand over it, so thats a good thing, the CPU temps have dropped 5c in core temp.
So I guess its doing its job.

I also plugged the Kraken X60 back in properly, its allowing for better fan control, woke up this morning to 21c idle and a dead silent fan.
The custom profile is doing a better job, at 55% the temps don't go over 44c in 25 minutes of Furmark, that also could be from the extra fans down the bottom pushing the hot air away from the GPU itself as well.


----------



## momentum

Which 120mm loop would you recommend as the most efficient to a 770 class GPU? Strictly under $100.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Which 120mm loop would you recommend as the most efficient to a 770 class GPU? Strictly under $100.


I tend to stick with corsair on these because of warranty issues. Their pretty well known for taking care of things if it should spring a leak. If I went with a 120mm setup, I like the H-70.


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I tend to stick with corsair on these because of warranty issues. Their pretty well known for taking care of things if it should spring a leak. If I went with a 120mm setup, I like the H-70.


Is the Η70 compatible with G10?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Is the Η70 compatible with G10?


pulled up a pic to make sure. It looks ASETEK to me.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181019

Only thing I would check is make sure the tubing length is adequate for where you intend to mount it. If I am not mistaken, the tubing looks a little short on the H-70 just looking at pics.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> Which 120mm loop would you recommend as the most efficient to a 770 class GPU? Strictly under $100.


To be honest the H70 depending on the price point would be useless over a H55...which is more than likely cheaper. And also comes with a fan as the H70 he listed doesn't....

AS for if you have a big case and need longer tubing. Any of the Kraken cooler series will do since they have longer tubes then about all of the corsair series....

http://store.nzxt.com/category-s/68.htm


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> To be honest the H70 depending on the price point would be useless over a H55...which is more than likely cheaper. And also comes with a fan as the H70 he listed doesn't....
> 
> AS for if you have a big case and need longer tubing. Any of the Kraken cooler series will do since they have longer tubes then about all of the corsair series....
> 
> http://store.nzxt.com/category-s/68.htm


How is Kraken on warranty if there is a leak?

As for the H70, I just like the thicker radiator, having installed and run several H60s and H80is, the thicker radiator most definitely helps. But that experience was with a cpu, not gpu.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> How is Kraken on warranty if there is a leak?


Well I've never had a NZXT cooler but have had plenty cases and other parts. I've only had to RMA once and it went smoothly with no issues took 2-3 weeks though. However the new X31, X41, X61 kraken cooler series come backed with 6 year warranty which no other company does.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well I've never had a NZXT cooler but have had plenty cases and other parts. I've only had to RMA once and it went smoothly with no issues took 2-3 weeks though. However the new X31, X41, X61 kraken cooler series come backed with 6 year warranty which no other company does.


Im more interested in their response if there is a leak and it takes out other hardware. Corsair is pretty well known to take care of business. I have not seen any posts on other AIO manufacturer's response to that type of situation. Have to search and see what I can find.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im more interested in their response if there is a leak and it takes out other hardware. Corsair is pretty well known to take care of business. I have not seen any posts on other AIO manufacturer's response to that type of situation. Have to search and see what I can find.


So if my H55 springs a leak and fries all my s... corsair will reimburse me?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> So if my H55 springs a leak and fries all my s... corsair will reimburse me?


Yes they have a pretty solid history of doing this. Within the warranty period of course. I think its 5 years.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yes they have a pretty solid history of doing this. Within the warranty period of course. I think its 5 years.


Wow that's pretty outstanding of them specially the fact that people have thousands of $$ wrapped into the systems.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Wow that's pretty outstanding of them specially the fact that people have thousands of $$ wrapped into the systems.


Yeah, thats why they have the market share they do. It is what keeps me buying them, even though I have never had a leak from one of their hydro units and ive installed dozens. But Kraken and others may be just as good, I really do not know, thats why I asked.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah, thats why they have the market share they do. It is what keeps me buying them, even though I have never had a leak from one of their hydro units and ive installed dozens. But Kraken and others may be just as good, I really do not know, thats why I asked.


Can't say i blaime you i hopped on the corsair band wagon lait but haven't been dissapointed at all. I have the H55 and 8 SP120's, couldn't be happier but makes me feel better about my H55. I wonder what Antec's track record is...since i have the Antec 920 on my CPU.


----------



## ldewitt

Uploaded updated pictures in my rig, figured i wouldn't flood this thread with more pictures.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Wow that's pretty outstanding of them specially the fact that people have thousands of $$ wrapped into the systems.


yup corsair is awesome. I have had alot of there products and they have all served me well.
Idewitt your RIG is sweeeet! Very nice man!+1


----------



## Noah3210

Hi everyone I am am owner of 2 G10's and a H55 for 2 reference r9 290's my question is about the vram i order the cosmos copper vram heatsinks and I have looked on other forms and I have noticed people using different thermal paste I recently bough a noctua cpu cooler and I was going to use that but the cooper heatsinks have adheasive on them already so im not sure if its needed? Thanks! since I am using a r9 290 I bought 5 packs of 8 since each has 16 vrams and some extra to put on the back line thing.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Well if you use the thermal paste and its the glue kind i dont think you wil be able to get it off. Theres some good thermal tape out there. Or just try what came with the heatsinks. Just make sure you clean of the vrms and vram really good with some isporpal alchol and cotton balls. Otherwise they may not stick well. Hope i helped. And welco.e to the club. Dont forget to register.


----------



## Noah3210

I also wanted to know does it matter what kind of fan I use? I was planning on using the stock one with one of my older molex fans and an older *well used* Silverstone fan. sound isnt really an issue since the entire computer will be in another room behind an close ventilated door.


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noah3210*
> 
> *I also wanted to know does it matter what kind of fan I use?* I was planning on using the stock one with one of my older molex fans and an older *well used* Silverstone fan. sound isnt really an issue since the entire computer will be in another room behind an close ventilated door.


Of course fans matters, you have to take a look on some of the reviews to see how much a difference they actually make. After all if it didn't matter they wouldn't be like a million different fans out there.
Check some of the characteristics fans have like max rpm, CFM airflow, db noise, price etc and make your choice.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Can people post your GPU, AIO, Case and Max temps after 15 minutes of Furmark (plus ambient if you can)
Was looking to compare temps with different coolers.

Mine are:
Asus GTX780ti Matrix
Kraken x60
Max temps 47c, Ambient 26c
Phantek Enthoo Primo

Stock air cooler temps are 81c (Yes 81c on a ROG Matrix is not good)


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noah3210*
> 
> Hi everyone I am am owner of 2 G10's and a H55 for 2 reference r9 290's my question is about the vram i order the cosmos copper vram heatsinks and I have looked on other forms and I have noticed people using different thermal paste I recently bough a noctua cpu cooler and I was going to use that but the cooper heatsinks have adheasive on them already so im not sure if its needed? Thanks! since I am using a r9 290 I bought 5 packs of 8 since each has 16 vrams and some extra to put on the back line thing.


They actually make a custom 290 VRMS heatsink and can be bought on new egg that would work better than those heatsinks.
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=35-426-042


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Can people post your GPU, AIO, Case and Max temps after 15 minutes of Furmark (plus ambient if you can)
> Was looking to compare temps with different coolers.
> 
> Mine are:
> Asus GTX780ti Matrix
> Kraken x60
> Max temps 47c, Ambient 26c
> Phantek Enthoo Primo
> 
> Stock air cooler temps are 81c (Yes 81c on a ROG Matrix is not good)


Mine are:
ASUS DirectCU II GTX 770's in SLI
Corsair H-90s
Max Temp 51C in Furmark, Ambient 27C
My rig will run a little warmer due to SLI and running multiple monitors.

Which fan are you talking about? The one on the G-10 or the radiator?
I have the nzxt fan that came with the kit on the G-10 and Spectre Pros on the radiators. Putting Aerocools on the radiators this weekend.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Which fan are you talking about? The one on the G-10 or the radiator?


You mean when I said stock cooler?
I meant the stock GPU cooler that came on the card.

I'm using the stock NZXT 92mm fan too, does the job and is quiet.

After doing a re-TIM and re-seat I'm hitting a max of 43c in Furmark, but Ambient temps are 21c.
Something was bugging me about my first mounting (my OCD kicked in)...

Still trying to work out where to mount this damn RAD, it's really heating up everything else inside, I did exhaust out the bottom yesterday for a test, but the case was starved for intake air, that includes using the rear exhaust as an intake.
Didn't make a difference to the GPU temps at all, just the internal system temps.


----------



## Noah3210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> They actually make a custom 290 VRMS heatsink and can be bought on new egg that would work better than those heatsinks.
> http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=35-426-042


Is there clearance issues? With the kraken's 90mm fan? I was just going to cut the last pack in half or something since the ones on the VRMS is alot smaller


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> You mean when I said stock cooler?
> I meant the stock GPU cooler that came on the card.
> 
> I'm using the stock NZXT 92mm fan too, does the job and is quiet.
> 
> After doing a re-TIM and re-seat I'm hitting a max of 43c in Furmark, but Ambient temps are 21c.
> Something was bugging me about my first mounting (my OCD kicked in)...
> 
> Still trying to work out where to mount this damn RAD, it's really heating up everything else inside, I did exhaust out the bottom yesterday for a test, but the case was starved for intake air, that includes using the rear exhaust as an intake.
> Didn't make a difference to the GPU temps at all, just the internal system temps.


The ASUS Direct CU II coolers did pretty good, but temps would still top out right at 80C. But that is the temp target ASUS was shooting for so I guess it is effective in that respect.

You may have to get creative with radiator and fan placement. I actually have my fans on the outside of the case securing to the radiators inside for both H90s on the side cover and the H-110 on top of the case. I put grills with filter material on the fans over the H110 fans pushing and just simple fan guards for the two H-90s as they are exhausting. H-90 covers are mainly because my wifes cat is a dumbarse


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noah3210*
> 
> Is there clearance issues? With the kraken's 90mm fan? I was just going to cut the last pack in half or something since the ones on the VRMS is alot smaller


Well i don't have the 290's but i believe many people that had done this to there 290 without having to mod the VRM height. Don't quote me lets see if anyone else can confirm this?

Also if you look at the first post where people registered to show what they've mounted the G10 to you'll see alot of 290's PM one of those members to ask.


----------



## Noah3210

Its cool man I just bought an extra pack of those cosmos heatsinks I did the math and they still come out the same 6 packs of cosmos vrm is $51.42. 4 packs of Cosmos + 2 packs of the r9 290 custom heatsink is about $61 and copper is better from what I heard so money wise I think im good? specifically since I will have some of the cosmos left over. But i am going to do an build log so you guys can see this ghetto build when im done.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noah3210*
> 
> Its cool man I just bought an extra pack of those cosmos heatsinks I did the math and they still come out the same 6 packs of cosmos vrm is $51.42. 4 packs of Cosmos + 2 packs of the r9 290 custom heatsink is about $61 and copper is better from what I heard so money wise I think im good? specifically since I will have some of the cosmos left over. But i am going to do an build log so you guys can see this ghetto build when im done.


The cosmos sinks are the ones which several people have had trouble getting them to stay on the chips. Be sure to clean everything real well before placing them on the vram chips. Might also want to leave the card laying flat sink side up over night and maybe even heat it just a little with a hair dryer or something to give the adhesive every chance to set as well as possible. Yes i know this is reaching but hey it might help


----------



## Noah3210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The cosmos sinks are the ones which several people have had trouble getting them to stay on the chips. Be sure to clean everything real well before placing them on the vram chips. Might also want to leave the card laying flat sink side up over night and maybe even heat it just a little with a hair dryer or something to give the adhesive every chance to set as well as possible. Yes i know this is reaching but hey it might help


Yeah but still thanks for the advice I didnt think they would have a problem staying on so any tips is helpful.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noah3210*
> 
> Yeah but still thanks for the advice I didnt think they would have a problem staying on so any tips is helpful.


Honestly, we do not know if any of the other brands are any better. I have a different brand I am going to install this weekend, so we will see. But I still plan on doing the above to give them the best shot of staying put. The option is to use the epoxy based material, but once you go there, there is no going back.


----------



## Noah3210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Honestly, we do not know if any of the other brands are any better. I have a different brand I am going to install this weekend, so we will see. But I still plan on doing the above to give them the best shot of staying put. The option is to use the epoxy based material, but once you go there, there is no going back.


yeah true, that epoxy is permanent but I am not sure if I see myself selling these cards but It would be great to be able to undo anything that I do incase I need warranty or want to replace something. let me know what you get. also what brand are you using?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noah3210*
> 
> yeah true, that epoxy is permanent but I am not sure if I see myself selling these cards but It would be great to be able to undo anything that I do incase I need warranty or want to replace something. let me know what you get. also what brand are you using?


Im giving these a shot. They are on the desk at the house ready to go. Will let every one know Sunday hopefully. If they are still on after a full day of throttling the cards, I will be happy.

Akust Copper Ramsink Chip Heatsink - 22mm x 8mm x 5mm - 8 Pack (RS00-0604-AKS)
Part #: vid-224


----------



## Noah3210

let me know how it goes i cant do my install until i move to Canada then I can start working


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The ASUS Direct CU II coolers did pretty good, but temps would still top out right at 80C. But that is the temp target ASUS was shooting for so I guess it is effective in that respect.
> 
> You may have to get creative with radiator and fan placement. I actually have my fans on the outside of the case securing to the radiators inside for both H90s on the side cover and the H-110 on top of the case. I put grills with filter material on the fans over the H110 fans pushing and just simple fan guards for the two H-90s as they are exhausting. H-90 covers are mainly because my wifes cat is a dumbarse


I was thinking of picking up a H90 to replace the Kraken x60, then I could mount it in the rear exhaust over the top of the card, I understand I'm not going to get as low temps, but surely it will keep the card in the low 50's with a push/pull config.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I was thinking of picking up a H90 to replace the Kraken x60, then I could mount it in the rear exhaust over the top of the card, I understand I'm not going to get as low temps, but surely it will keep the card in the low 50's with a push/pull config.


Your probably looking at a 5 to 8C increase based on some of the comparisons I have read.


----------



## PCGameFan

I've been very pleased with my H75.


----------



## RocketAbyss

Hi all,

Sorry if this question has already been brought up, but has anyone been able to mount a full size backplate while using the G10? And if so, which backplate was used? Preferably with no modding done to the backplate.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Your probably looking at a 5 to 8C increase based on some of the comparisons I have read.


This is why I asked for temps and what is being used, for the people looking at the G10 not knowing what to buy.

I've made a little change which seems to be working really well at the moment, the RAD is still intaking from the bottom, but I've added 2 fans to the hard drive cage to allow more airflow from the front intake and directly onto the card, it also is pushing some hot air out of the rear grills.

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140822_125258_zps409b7183.jpg.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RocketAbyss*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Sorry if this question has already been brought up, but has anyone been able to mount a full size backplate while using the G10? And if so, which backplate was used? Preferably with no modding done to the backplate.


I've managed to install the G10 with my GTX780ti Matrix backplate still on, some people were able to use their Classified backplates too.
You just have to remove the foam on the Kraken G10's mounting bracket, and sometimes ask NZXT for longer screws.


----------



## RocketAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I've managed to install the G10 with my GTX780ti Matrix backplate still on, some people were able to use their Classified backplates too.
> You just have to remove the foam on the Kraken G10's mounting bracket, and sometimes ask NZXT for longer screws.


Thanks! However do you know if any third party backplate will work? Im using a reference 290x that didnt come with a backplate. I know EK's back plate doesnt have the holes for the gpu core area.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RocketAbyss*
> 
> Thanks! However do you know if any third party backplate will work? Im using a reference 290x that didnt come with a backplate. I know EK's back plate doesnt have the holes for the gpu core area.


No it won't work, no holes around the CPU area, I can't think of any other 3rd party manufactures that make back plates.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@SchoolofMonkey
I appreciate what you're trying to do by getting a database of different AIOs, Fans and fan speeds used with the G10, but there is no way in hell I am going to use Furmark on my card. I have had Furmark break a brand new MSI GTX 770 Lightning in February of this year, thank god it was still under the 30 day warranty.

I did the G10 modification to my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler. I was able to keep the mid plate/ base plate on, as well as the EVGA Backplate that I paid $20 for.(should really come included with a $500 card.) I also used Seksui Thermal Tape to attach all of my Heat Sinks. I feel like I did a very good job of doing the G10 mod, but I am not going to unnecessarily torture my card in Furmark, especially when I have had it brick a brand new card before. If you want me to run Unigine Heaven or Valley or some other type of benchmark, I would be happy to help, but Furmark is not going to happen, and I wish you wouldn't push other people to test using Furmark.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @SchoolofMonkey
> I appreciate what you're trying to do by getting a database of different AIOs, Fans and fan speeds used with the G10, but there is no way in hell I am going to use Furmark on my card. I have had Furmark break a brand new MSI GTX 770 Lightning in February of this year, thank god it was still under the 30 day warranty.
> .


Mate I'm open to suggestions to what people want to use for temp testing, I just through something that is free and easily to get.

How about 15 minutes of Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0 with these settings, I know it doesn't heat up the card, but people might feel safer.
I would of suggested Valley, but with the recent glitches in the new Nvidia drivers its not going to be accurate.

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/settings_zpsc778b407.jpg.html


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

15min of Unigine Heaven: DX11 // Ultra // Extreme // Disabled // Disabled // x8 // Full Screen - Yes // 1920x1080

EVGA GTX 780 SC + G10 with heat sinks + Kraken X31 2 Fans in push/pull as exhaust out the back of the case. I ran the pump and fans at full speed in order to create a standard by which to measure performance from.

My MAX Temperature was 47C after 15min with a 25C Ambient.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

My normal pump and fan speed profile is at 60%, and I never break hit 50C with those settings, much less noise and the performance is still incredible--20C lower than ACX Cooler.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> My normal pump and fan speed profile is at 60%, and I never break hit 50C with those settings, much less noise and the performance is still incredible--20C lower than ACX Cooler.


Asus GTX780ti Matrix
Kraken x60
Max temps 43c, Ambient 26c
Phantek Enthoo Primo

This is with 50% fans, air intake through the RAD into the case from the bottom..lol
Temps still better than the 81c from the stock Matrix DirectCU II cooler, its crud and falsely advertised.


----------



## machomen

Hi all I am wondering what the measurements of my videocard will be after putting the kraken G10 on it.

I am Using a Asus R9 290 DCUII.
My case is the Corsair 250D Thats my problem since the Corsair 250 D got only 2 PCI-expensions slots



Does anybody know if this will fit inside my case ?


----------



## jprovido

just finished installing my kraken g10 on my gtx 780. temps are great but I haven't installed any vram/vrm heatsinks which is freaking me out a bit. would this be ok?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> just finished installing my kraken g10 on my gtx 780. temps are great but I haven't installed any vram/vrm heatsinks which is freaking me out a bit. would this be ok?


Your not going to hurt the gpu, the cooling should be more than sufficient at stock clocks. It may/will affect OC's. How much so, well thats one of things were all trying to figure out right now.

I have pretty solid OCs on my two gpus at the moment with vrm heatsink and no vram heatsinks.

Which reminds me to ask, What are other 770 owners seeing from their OC's so far?
My best smoke test to date is below
GPU-1 1394 clock /7600 OC
GPU-2 1382 clock/7600 OC


----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *machomen*
> 
> Hi all I am wondering what the measurements of my videocard will be after putting the kraken G10 on it.
> 
> I am Using a Asus R9 290 DCUII.
> My case is the Corsair 250D Thats my problem since the Corsair 250 D got only 2 PCI-expensions slots
> 
> Does anybody know if this will fit inside my case ?


In my case the 770 with the G10 installed is 120mm wide. G10 only protrudes around 20mm.


----------



## stalinizator

Greetings.
I'd like to ask if it is possible to use G10 with pump looking like that (LQ510)


in comparison to this one G10 definitely supports (X40), I see some plastic 'things' around the pump and hatches for these 'things on G10 itself


Is that necessary to fit the pump into G10, or its simply aesthetical?
Thanks.


----------



## richie_2010

with the g10 them tabs are needed as the g10 uses them to hold the pump


----------



## falcon26

Has anyone attempted to run the G10 without a fan on it and just use the water cooler on the GPU? On my card it has a giant heatsink on the memory and VRM's already would that work just as good?


----------



## Voltaire90

Just finished the other day. Can change the interior lighting to whatever color I want, plus fade or jump to multiple colors, but I am still loving the white. G10 was not fun to install, but proved to be worth it. I had to clip the metal standoffs where the cooler header fits onto the frontplate to make the pump fit, and the hoses weren't long enough to reach the front of the case, but I made it work. Turned out really nice, I think. Supposed to be a secondary SSD there but I had to RMA it. :-(


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Has anyone attempted to run the G10 without a fan on it and just use the water cooler on the GPU? On my card it has a giant heatsink on the memory and VRM's already would that work just as good?


Are you saying you can not fit a fan on the g-10 bracket with the existing heatsink?

I would put a fan on it if you can. The cooler it runs, the more performance you get out of the card.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished the other day. Can change the interior lighting to whatever color I want, plus fade or jump to multiple colors, but I am still loving the white. G10 was not fun to install, but proved to be worth it. I had to clip the metal standoffs where the cooler header fits onto the frontplate to make the pump fit, and the hoses weren't long enough to reach the front of the case, but I made it work. Turned out really nice, I think. Supposed to be a secondary SSD there but I had to RMA it. :-(


Very nice!


----------



## Voltaire90




----------



## momentum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Has anyone attempted to run the G10 without a fan on it and just use the water cooler on the GPU


In the absence of airflow the temperature will gradually rise to dangerous levels. To a low end gpu that could as well run as a fanless i guess you could, but in a high end gaming gpu no way. Imagine that in a 770 class gpu under 100% load if you remove the fan the temp will rise to 90C within less that a minute.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> On my card it has a giant heatsink on the memory and VRM's already would that work just as good?


If it meets G10's clearance sure.


----------



## momentum

@Voltaire90 nice job mate, very beautiful indeed. Looks frozen.


----------



## falcon26

OK. Does anyone with an EVGA 780 SC know if you can leave the memory and vrm heatsink on when installing this or do you have to remove it?


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *momentum*
> 
> @Voltaire90 nice job mate, very beautiful indeed. Looks frozen.


Thank you! I've built a lot of systems but this was the first one that included watercooling and LED's, I honestly didnt know what to expect. I just hope in encourages more people the try the G10 bracket out. Not for novice builders though, unless they are very careful or have a lot of money lol. :-D


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> OK. Does anyone with an EVGA 780 SC know if you can leave the memory and vrm heatsink on when installing this or do you have to remove it?


If it has a metal front plate that has thermal tape or compound on it, it can stay on. If its low profile. I personally don't know what your card looks like, so I cant say for sure, but I have a GTX 770 Dual SC and unbeknownst to me, it came with a low profile metal front plate that acts as a heatsink for all the chips aside from the main one, and I was able to install it, however I did have to modify the front plate a bit. On the large opening where the watercooling pump attaches, it had four points that stick out towards the chip to run screws through, and there was 2mm of those that got in the way of the pump sitting flat, so I had to clip them off, but then it worked fine. Please post a pic of your GPU sans the stock cooler and I will be able to help more.


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> If it has a metal front plate that has thermal tape or compound on it, it can stay on. If its low profile. I personally don't know what your card looks like, so I cant say for sure, but I have a GTX 770 Dual SC and unbeknownst to me, it came with a low profile metal front plate that acts as a heatsink for all the chips aside from the main one, and I was able to install it, however I did have to modify the front plate a bit. On the large opening where the watercooling pump attaches, it had four points that stick out towards the chip to run screws through, and there was 2mm of those that got in the way of the pump sitting flat, so I had to clip them off, but then it worked fine. Please post a pic of your GPU sans the stock cooler and I will be able to help more.


Edit: Because of the front plate and backplate, I did have to remove the foam padding on the NZXT mouting plate (the small square one that goes on the back/top of the card) before I removed that, I couldnt get the screws all the way through to secure them. So, either remove the foam square or buy longer screws.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> Edit: Because of the front plate and backplate, I did have to remove the foam padding on the NZXT mouting plate (the small square one that goes on the back/top of the card) before I removed that, I couldnt get the screws all the way through to secure them. So, either remove the foam square or buy longer screws.


If you have a backplate, you should not even need the NZXT backplate. Assuming the screw heads are larger than the holes of course. I skipped the NZXT plate on the back of my ASUS cards.


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> OK. Does anyone with an EVGA 780 SC know if you can leave the memory and vrm heatsink on when installing this or do you have to remove it?


Is this something that answers your question?


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished the other day. Can change the interior lighting to whatever color I want, plus fade or jump to multiple colors, but I am still loving the white. G10 was not fun to install, but proved to be worth it. I had to clip the metal standoffs where the cooler header fits onto the frontplate to make the pump fit, and the hoses weren't long enough to reach the front of the case, but I made it work. Turned out really nice, I think. Supposed to be a secondary SSD there but I had to RMA it. :-(


sweet build! what'd you do to the hoses to get them white?


----------



## PaparasGT

Sexy as hell...


----------



## falcon26

What kind of temps are people getting with these as opposed to stock? On my 780 Msi gaming I idle about 40-42 and load about 75 after 2 hours of gaming with BF4. And the card itself is still rather quiet. This is with the Msi Twin Frozr fans system...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> What kind of temps are people getting with these as opposed to stock? On my 780 Msi gaming I idle about 40-42 and load about 75 after 2 hours of gaming with BF4. And the card itself is still rather quiet. This is with the Msi Twin Frozr fans system...


I have 770s, but mine has a 30C drop in temps at load. Idle was really the same as with the air coolers. Maybe 1 or 2 degrees cooler. Idle is typically 27C fluctuating up and down a degree.


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> sweet build! what'd you do to the hoses to get them white?


Thanks! I used 4 layers of "Plasti Dip". It peels right off if you ever need it too also. I had to RMA one of my SSDs and I just peeled it off and sent it back.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> Thanks! I used 4 layers of "Plasti Dip". It peels right off if you ever need it too also. I had to RMA one of my SSDs and I just peeled it off and sent it back.


i'll keep that in mind!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> What kind of temps are people getting with these as opposed to stock? On my 780 Msi gaming I idle about 40-42 and load about 75 after 2 hours of gaming with BF4. And the card itself is still rather quiet. This is with the Msi Twin Frozr fans system...


Idle temps on most cards no matter what the cooler are pretty much the same, I get around the same idle temps as @Ultisym, but I also have my RAD fans at 25%.
Its not the idle temps you have to worry about though, Max temps with an hour+ of gaming in Watch_Dogs, Risen 3, Metro Last Light are 45c.

If you look at it this way, Nvidia temp threshold before throttling is 85c (from what I've read), so a 30c+ temp drop is worth it.
What does become the problem is where to mount the RAD if you use a 280mm AIO like I did...lol


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2145225/width/500/height/1000]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2145225/width/500/height/1000[/URL][/SPOILER]
> Just finished the other day. Can change the interior lighting to whatever color I want, plus fade or jump to multiple colors, but I am still loving the white. G10 was not fun to install, but proved to be worth it. I had to clip the metal standoffs where the cooler header fits onto the frontplate to make the pump fit, and the hoses weren't long enough to reach the front of the case, but I made it work. Turned out really nice, I think. Supposed to be a secondary SSD there but I had to RMA it. :-([/QUOTE]
> 
> How do you find the temps in the H440?
> I have one sitting here, and both my 280mm AIO's would fit really well it in, are you intaking though the GPU RAD?


----------



## falcon26

That's just it. I already have a H55 cooler on my CPU mounted to the rear of my case. So if I got the G10 I would mount it to the front. But I'm not sure if those tubes would be longer enough for my fractal r4 case to reach. And the hottest I have seen my GPU is about 75-77. I would have to use both H55's as exhaust I think....Wait you are saying your MAX load temp for gaming is 45C???


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> That's just it. I already have a H55 cooler on my CPU mounted to the rear of my case. So if I got the G10 I would mount it to the front. But I'm not sure if those tubes would be longer enough for my fractal r4 case to reach. And the hottest I have seen my GPU is about 75-77. I would have to use both H55's as exhaust I think....Wait you are saying your MAX load temp for gaming is 45C???


Yes max load temps with a Kraken X60 are 45/47c depending if I have the heater on, but ambient temps are about 26c.
My card is a Asus GTX780ti Matrix.

Corsair tubes are shorter than NZXT's, but Corsair coverage on leaks are better, so its a tossup.
My rule of thumb is not to mount the AIO where it can leak on anything important...

(Sorry if I'm rambling a little, I'm very sick today.)

Before (idle)
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/before_zpsd8d50ac1.jpeg.html

After (Metro LL Benchmark maxed out 6 times)
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/after_zps51b10adf.jpeg.html


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> My rule of thumb is not to mount the AIO where it can leak on anything important...


That is unfortunately impossible unless you assume that just the radiator/radiator hoses and not the pump/pump hoses will leak. Even though they are VERY rare, Guess where most leaks occur on AIOs..................

I know one thing, with the H-110 mounted on top of my case, im gonna make it rain up in this thing either way if it blows.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I know one thing, with the H-110 mounted on top of my case, im gonna make it rain up in this thing either way if it blows.


Same here, but the connectors on the RAD aren't over the video card, they are closer to the 5.25" bay, so in theory any water leaking from there should miss the video card...
Though I've treated the Kraken x60 like crap pretty much throwing it around, even my 2yo carried it for a bit, and there's no leaks in that at all, still going strong.
(was tested A LOT before sticking it on the matrix..lol)


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> OK. Does anyone with an EVGA 780 SC know if you can leave the memory and vrm heatsink on when installing this or do you have to remove it?


I personally did the G10 modification to my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler. You can leave on the Memory and VRM Heatsink if you get a copper shim.


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> How do you find the temps in the H440?
> I have one sitting here, and both my 280mm AIO's would fit really well it in, are you intaking though the GPU RAD?


Hope all is well with your wife. I know how that is mate. Just curious, who is the guy in your avatar image. I know I've seen him, but I can't place it. At first I was thinking swiss family robinson but I was wrong.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> Hope all is well with your wife. I know how that is mate. Just curious, who is the guy in your avatar image. I know I've seen him, but I can't place it. At first I was thinking swiss family robinson but I was wrong.


She's getting there, been sick with a cold for 2 months, but thats due to chemo lowering her immune system.
That's Monkey from Monkey Magic, my all time fav show...








http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey_%28TV_series%29


----------



## sweenytodd

My Asus GTX 780 Ti Direct CU II w/ Corsair H55. I used Gelid GC-Extreme for TIM.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









*37C drop!*


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> My Asus GTX 780 Ti Direct CU II w/ Corsair H55. I used Gelid GC-Extreme for TIM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *37C drop!*


Thats a great improvement. I was hesitant to do this for the longest time over losing the warranty, but with the cards getting a year or two out I felt better about it. Easily one of the best mods ive made for the gain in temp/noise and performance. Is the voltage on your card locked to 1.212?

I very nearly went with that color on the G-10 too because of the Soundblaster Z.


----------



## falcon26

Wow. That is pretty impressive than. That is like a 30C drop in load temps. With the VRM and heatsink plate in place I guess you would have to modify the black spacer things so it would sit even right? Maybe take a bit off with a razor blade. I may do this next month.....I'll get the G10 and the H55. But I want to get a different 92mm fan. I want one that is all black not black and white....I have the MSI gaming 780 myself...


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Wow. That is pretty impressive than. That is like a 30C drop in load temps. With the VRM and heatsink plate in place I guess you would have to modify the black spacer things so it would sit even right? Maybe take a bit off with a razor blade. I may do this next month.....I'll get the G10 and the H55. But I want to get a different 92mm fan. I want one that is all black not black and white....I have the MSI gaming 780 myself...


Thats what I did. I used a fileting knife(had to resharpen a few times) to cut down the foam pad on the back of the G10. I also used a Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm PWM Fan and paired it with a VGA to PWM Fan Adapter so that I could save a motherboard fan header. Just go into afterburner and remove any fan curve and set it to a constant RPM. I have mine at 70% constant, no noise and no issues.

EVGA GTX 780 SC, I went from 75C to not hitting 50C by using a Kraken X31(2 Fans in Push Pull @ ~60%) I also added heat sinks just to err on the side of caution. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## falcon26

How do most people mount the cooler? Top of the case rear front etc etc...


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> How do most people mount the cooler? Top of the case rear front etc etc...


Dual radiator in front as a push pull intake


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> How do most people mount the cooler? Top of the case rear front etc etc...


This is completely up to the case and cooler and mainboard combination. I have the H-110 280mm on the top with fans on top pushing intake, both of the 140mm H-90s are mounted on the case side panel exhausting, out of necessity.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> How do most people mount the cooler? Top of the case rear front etc etc...


I have mine set to exhaust out the back 120/140mm mount.


----------



## Cozmo85

Rear fan spot as an intake. 2 fans on top of case exhausting out. My h100i is a front intake for my cpu.


----------



## falcon26

My friend is wanting to do this. He has a evga 780 that is loading at 80-81C. With or without his side panel on. He is looking to lower those temps with either the g10 with the h55 or an arctic cooling after market cooler...


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> My friend is wanting to do this. He has a evga 780 that is loading at 80-81C. With or without his side panel on. He is looking to lower those temps with either the g10 with the h55 or an arctic cooling after market cooler...


That would be the cheapest AIO you can get. I recommend the H55 w/ the G10. ~$100 budget will do.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> My friend is wanting to do this. He has a evga 780 that is loading at 80-81C. With or without his side panel on. He is looking to lower those temps with either the g10 with the h55 or an arctic cooling after market cooler...


People have been having good luck with every AIO that has been tried the best I can tell. More money appears to buy no more than ~ 5C.

Is anyone running this mod that is not at least below 60C?

On the arctic coolers, they actually work pretty well too but you are still relying on a good air circuit.


----------



## hoodninja89

i plan on doing this to my 780ti classified i have the G10 already but i wanna know whats best for the vrm and vram to cool them? like what heatsinks? and would the g10 benifit from a nice noctua fan in the 92mm spot?


----------



## hoodninja89

evga780ticlassy.jpg 377k .jpg file


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoodninja89*
> 
> evga780ticlassy.jpg 377k .jpg file


I would definitely put something on the VRMs. My cards came with a heat sink on the VRMs so I can not help you there. For the VRAM I installed these last weekend:

Akust Copper Ramsink Chip Heatsink - 22mm x 8mm x 5mm - 8 Pack (RS00-0604-AKS)
Part #: vid-224


Have not had the chance to test them yet but they stay on well and are definitely doing their job. Will be testing this week to see if they actually help with higher OC's.


----------



## hoodninja89

ok why are they so long i was thinking these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14FJL5O9CH7QK

are what look like they would fit better to me?

and this fan to?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KHRGJW4/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15YNZR7YB053N


----------



## xnoobftw

Hey guys! I'm deciding on getting the kraken g10 for my impending r9 290!








However i have absolutely no idea on what heatsinks to get for both of my VRAM and my VRM.
I came across this product http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426042 and im wondering whether is it enough? Or do i need more?


----------



## xnoobftw

And is adding the heatsink onto the vram really needed? ( i am doing insane overclocking ofcourse







)


----------



## sweenytodd

Not really needed. My DirectCU II card only have the gpu touching the cooler.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Not really needed. My DirectCU II card only have the gpu touching the cooler.


Wont the VRAM overheat like the VRM too? (If overclocked)


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Wont the VRAM overheat like the VRM too? (If overclocked)


These are my temps on the GTX780ti Matrix, there is no VRAM heat sinks only one big VRM heatsink, like all DirectCU II coolers (Power Temp is VRM temp):

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/temps_zps3ddc2c45.jpeg.html


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> These are my temps on the GTX780ti Matrix, there is no VRAM heat sinks only one big VRM heatsink, like all DirectCU II coolers (Power Temp is VRM temp):
> 
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/temps_zps3ddc2c45.jpeg.html


Ah actually what i wanted to ask was whether are VRAM heatsinks needed!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Ah actually what i wanted to ask was whether are VRAM heatsinks needed!


Not really, most cards don't have vram heatsinks, and from what I understand if the GPU core temps are low the vram temps stay lower too.
The temps I showed you the vram has no cooling at all, that includes a fan blowing directly on the, and they didn't go over 55c.

What card are you wanting to put the Kraken G10 onto (Funny I'm on the Kraken forum, drinking Kraken Spiced Rum...lol)


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Not really, most cards don't have vram heatsinks, and from what I understand if the GPU core temps are low the vram temps stay lower too.
> The temps I showed you the vram has no cooling at all, that includes a fan blowing directly on the, and they didn't go over 55c.
> 
> What card are you wanting to put the Kraken G10 onto (Funny I'm on the Kraken forum, drinking Kraken Spiced Rum...lol)


The r9 290!


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Not really, most cards don't have vram heatsinks, and from what I understand if the GPU core temps are low the vram temps stay lower too.
> The temps I showed you the vram has no cooling at all, that includes a fan blowing directly on the, and they didn't go over 55c.
> 
> What card are you wanting to put the Kraken G10 onto (Funny I'm on the Kraken forum, drinking Kraken Spiced Rum...lol)


A quick question, is 600 watts (cooler master g600w) enough to power the kraken g10, r9 290, h55 from corsair, i5 4440, h87 g43 MOBO, 6 fans, 250gb samsung SSD, 2 WD harddrives (green) and (maybe) an LED light strip?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> A quick question, is 600 watts (cooler master g600w) enough to power the kraken g10, r9 290, h55 from corsair, i5 4440, h87 g43 MOBO, 6 fans, 250gb samsung SSD, 2 WD harddrives (green) and (maybe) an LED light strip?


Can't see why not, depends on you CPU/Motherboard too, but 600watt is about the normal.
But being a bronze rated PSU I wouldn't be adding much more, I also am not the PSU expert here either..lol


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Can't see why not, depends on you CPU/Motherboard too, but 600watt is about the normal.
> But being a bronze rated PSU I wouldn't be adding much more, I also am not the PSU expert here either..lol


My cpu is the i5 4440 and my Motherboard is the h87g43! Anyways thanks for your answer!







(its abit off topic here haha)


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> And is adding the heatsink onto the vram really needed? ( i am doing insane overclocking ofcourse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yes, heatsinks on the VRAM and VRMs is needed if you are doing overclocking. Better to be safe than sorry.

You keep saying R9 290, we need to know what exact model of R9 290 you are getting, they are not all the same, be specific.

600W PSU will be enough so long as it is Bronze Certified.

Maybe you should buy an overclockable CPU + motherboard instead of doing the G10 modification from the start. It is easier to add a G10 later on, but more expensive to buy a new CPU later. Go for a Z97 + i5-4690k and then in a few months when you have funds available, water cool your R9 290. But try out the 290 at stock before deciding to water cool it.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yes, heatsinks on the VRAM and VRMs is needed if you are doing overclocking. Better to be safe than sorry.
> 
> You keep saying R9 290, we need to know what exact model of R9 290 you are getting, they are not all the same, be specific.
> 
> 600W PSU will be enough so long as it is Bronze Certified.
> 
> Maybe you should buy an overclockable CPU + motherboard instead of doing the G10 modification from the start. It is easier to add a G10 later on, but more expensive to buy a new CPU later. Go for a Z97 + i5-4690k and then in a few months when you have funds available, water cool your R9 290. But try out the 290 at stock before deciding to water cool it.


Im getting the reference model! But some dude on linus tech tips site said my PSU (g600w) is not enough even tho it has 80+ bronze! So my CPU would hold my OCed GPU in a sense?


----------



## PaparasGT

I dont think that your 4440 drains that much energy. If you plan on upgrading though with a K model and overclocking it, you definitely need a new PSU. At least 750+


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaparasGT*
> 
> I dont think that your 4440 drains that much energy. If you plan on upgrading though with a K model and overclocking it, you definitely need a new PSU. At least 750+


Nah i am not







im not even sure whether the i5 4440 will bottleneck my oced r9290....


----------



## PaparasGT

You will not know until you try...


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Ah actually what i wanted to ask was whether are VRAM heatsinks needed!


With the R290 I would use vram heat sinks, they run a bit hotter than the GTX780/780ti.

That being said, I have my heater on tonight, ambient temps are 26c and my vram only hit 61c, its rated up to 95c.
These temps were taken after an hour of Watch_Dogs:

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/newtemps_zps8d33f321.jpeg.html


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> With the R290 I would use vram heat sinks, they run a bit hotter than the GTX780/780ti.
> 
> That being said, I have my heater on tonight, ambient temps are 26c and my vram only hit 61c, its rated up to 95c.
> These temps were taken after an hour of Watch_Dogs:
> 
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/newtemps_zps8d33f321.jpeg.html


Alright thank you!!!


----------



## xnoobftw

May i ask what heatsinks did you all use for the VRAM? (I'm already planning to get the GELID for the VRM)


----------



## xnoobftw

For the reference r9 290 of course


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> And is adding the heatsink onto the vram really needed? ( i am doing insane overclocking ofcourse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


In overclocking, cooler is always better. I have hit a wall on my gpus at 7600 mts. After that they become unstable. I would like to hit 7800 or 8000. So I am hoping heatsinks will at least get me part of the way there.

Are heatsinks on the VRAM necessary though? Not for stock clocks or even a moderate OC IMO.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoodninja89*
> 
> ok why are they so long i was thinking these
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14FJL5O9CH7QK
> 
> are what look like they would fit better to me?
> 
> and this fan to?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KHRGJW4/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15YNZR7YB053N


The cosmos would be a better fit if they stayed on. Many have had trouble with those falling off with the adhesive that comes on them. That is why I am trying these. The coverage is still adequate on them.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> In overclocking, cooler is always better. I have hit a wall on my gpus at 7600 mts. After that they become unstable. I would like to hit 7800 or 8000. So I am hoping heatsinks will at least get me part of the way there.
> 
> Are heatsinks on the VRAM necessary though? Not for stock clocks or even a moderate OC IMO.


may i ask what heatsinks do you use on the VRAM?


----------



## xnoobftw

Okay guys is this sufficent for cooling (both VRM and vrams)
2 packs of http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
1pack of http://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-Vision-Enhancement-R290/dp/B00K73F60E/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409050989&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=gelid+solutions+cl-r9290


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> may i ask what heatsinks do you use on the VRAM?


previous page, link and photo in one of my posts near the top of the page.

Hopefully I will get time to do some benchmarking and see if they were of any use in the next couple of days.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> previous page, link and photo in one of my posts near the top of the page.
> 
> Hopefully I will get time to do some benchmarking and see if they were of any use in the next couple of days.


But isnt that for the VRM? haha im actually asking for the VRAM heatsinks!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> But isnt that for the VRM? haha im actually asking for the VRAM heatsinks!


No, I have placed those on the VRAM.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> No, I have placed those on the VRAM.


Are they good? :O


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> No, I have placed those on the VRAM.


How will these fare then?







http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> How will these fare then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1


That is the cosmos I was speaking of. The sinks are good, the adhesive not so much. You can experiment with other thermal tape if they fall off. Unfortunately, we are still in the learning phase of figuring out which products will work best "out of the box" with this type of mod (G-10). I will know more on the ones I installed later this week. So far they have been fine. But all that means is they havnt fallen off,







. I have to do some benching to see if they helped any. Fact is.... it may ultimately make such a small difference VRAM sinks are not even worth fooling with. You get far more performance OC'ing the gpu than the memory in my experience. Again, based on every one here who as done the mod and posted input, VRAM sinks are NOT needed for stock clocked or even moderately overclocked VRAM. The fan on the G-10 appears to be adequate here.

The VRM sink in the link should be fine if its long enough to cover the vrms.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> That is the cosmos I was speaking of. The sinks are good, the adhesive not so much. You can experiment with other thermal tape if they fall off. Unfortunately, we are still in the learning phase of figuring out which products will work best with this type of mod (G-10). I will know more on the ones I installed later this week. So far they have been fine. But all that means is they havnt fallen off,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have to do some benching to see if they helped any. Fact is.... it may ultimately make such a small difference VRAM sinks are not even worth fooling with. You get far more performance OC'ing the gpu than the memory in my experience. Again, based on every one here who as done the mod and posted input, VRAM sinks are NOT needed for stock clocked or even moderately overclocked VRAM.


Ah I'm actually really planning to go ape**** with the overclock! Thank you for your help tho


----------



## PaparasGT

Does this really work on my GTX 580 SC DS? The card has two rows of VRMs...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K73F60E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2YWKFHLPNGYZ&coliid=I3H5RH94CMEI3T


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Ah I'm actually really planning to go ape**** with the overclock! Thank you for your help tho


600W of Bronze rated is plenty for a single CPU + GPU both overclocked. Anyone who tells you otherwise hasn't done their research. Go watch JayzTwoCents video and Tiny Tom Logans video. Jay runs an i7-3770k + 680 both overclocked, watercooled, and lots of fans, LEDs, HDDs, SSDs, etc.. and at full load he isn't even hitting 400W. Tom Logan has an i7-4770k + GTX780 both overclocked and he only has a 450W Gold Rated PSU. 600W of Bronze is plenty, I used a 600W Bronze for my i5-4670k + GTX 780 both overclocked for 6 months without issue.

For starters, buy an i5-4670k. If you want to overclocked, get an overclockable CPU. You can always do the G10 mod later, buy the most important components first, and that is GPU and CPU.

Buy the Seksui Thermal Tape that I linked you. I am using the Cosmos Copper Heatsinks with the Seksui Thermal Tape and none of them have fallen off, it has been a month now and they are all holding strong.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> 600W of Bronze rated is plenty for a single CPU + GPU both overclocked. Anyone who tells you otherwise hasn't done their research. Go watch JayzTwoCents video and Tiny Tom Logans video. Jay runs an i7-3770k + 680 both overclocked, watercooled, and lots of fans, LEDs, HDDs, SSDs, etc.. and at full load he isn't even hitting 400W. Tom Logan has an i7-4770k + GTX780 both overclocked and he only has a 450W Gold Rated PSU. 600W of Bronze is plenty, I used a 600W Bronze for my i5-4670k + GTX 780 both overclocked for 6 months without issue.
> 
> For starters, buy an i5-4670k. If you want to overclocked, get an overclockable CPU. You can always do the G10 mod later, buy the most important components first, and that is GPU and CPU.
> 
> Buy the Seksui Thermal Tape that I linked you. I am using the Cosmos Copper Heatsinks with the Seksui Thermal Tape and none of them have fallen off, it has been a month now and they are all holding strong.


I'm confused, where is the discussion on a 600W PSU? I missed something.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> 600W of Bronze rated is plenty for a single CPU + GPU both overclocked. Anyone who tells you otherwise hasn't done their research. Go watch JayzTwoCents video and Tiny Tom Logans video. Jay runs an i7-3770k + 680 both overclocked, watercooled, and lots of fans, LEDs, HDDs, SSDs, etc.. and at full load he isn't even hitting 400W. Tom Logan has an i7-4770k + GTX780 both overclocked and he only has a 450W Gold Rated PSU. 600W of Bronze is plenty, I used a 600W Bronze for my i5-4670k + GTX 780 both overclocked for 6 months without issue.
> 
> For starters, buy an i5-4670k. If you want to overclocked, get an overclockable CPU. You can always do the G10 mod later, buy the most important components first, and that is GPU and CPU.
> 
> Buy the Seksui Thermal Tape that I linked you. I am using the Cosmos Copper Heatsinks with the Seksui Thermal Tape and none of them have fallen off, it has been a month now and they are all holding strong.


I've already gotten the i5 4440 a year ago D: But there was a guy on linus tech tips who said my PSU sucks (g600w) and told me to get an EVGA G2 750 watts one! The 600 W is enough right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I'm confused, where is the discussion on a 600W PSU? I missed something.


I'm asking whether my PSU is enough for my r9 290 and i5 4440 (with g10 and h55 on 290 of course







)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> I've already gotten the i5 4440 a year ago D: But there was a guy on linus tech tips who said my PSU sucks (g600w) and told me to get an EVGA G2 750 watts one! The 600 W is enough right?
> I'm asking whether my PSU is enough for my r9 290 and i5 4440 (with g10 and h55 on 290 of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The 750 G2 is a hell of a PSU (Ask me how I know







).

600 watts is enough for a single gpu system, I do not know anything of that design though. If you want another opinion on the design, talk to "Shilka" "TwoCables" or "Twerk".


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The 750 G2 is a hell of a PSU (Ask me how I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 600 watts is enough for a single gpu system, I do not know anything of that design though. If you want another opinion on the design, talk to "Shilka" "TwoCables" or "Twerk".


Shilka replied me and said i should not keep the PSU lol.....


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> 600W of Bronze rated is plenty for a single CPU + GPU both overclocked. Anyone who tells you otherwise hasn't done their research. Go watch JayzTwoCents video and Tiny Tom Logans video. Jay runs an i7-3770k + 680 both overclocked, watercooled, and lots of fans, LEDs, HDDs, SSDs, etc.. and at full load he isn't even hitting 400W. Tom Logan has an i7-4770k + GTX780 both overclocked and he only has a 450W Gold Rated PSU. 600W of Bronze is plenty, I used a 600W Bronze for my i5-4670k + GTX 780 both overclocked for 6 months without issue.
> 
> For starters, buy an i5-4670k. If you want to overclocked, get an overclockable CPU. You can always do the G10 mod later, buy the most important components first, and that is GPU and CPU.
> 
> Buy the Seksui Thermal Tape that I linked you. I am using the Cosmos Copper Heatsinks with the Seksui Thermal Tape and none of them have fallen off, it has been a month now and they are all holding strong.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

The G series of PSUs from Cooler Master are budget oriented PSUs, similar to the CX series from Corsair. It is not the best PSU available, not is it intended to be. For the system you have, it will work. It only has a 3 year warranty, so depending how long ago you purchased it, it might be time for a new one. Budget PSUs are good, I used to use a CX600M for my i5-4670k(4.7Ghz @ 1.275v) + GTX 780(1110Mhz). I only used it for 6 months until I had more money to buy a better PSU. Spending $40 to get me 6 months of use is very good because it allowed me to build my system at budget and still work. I knew going in that I wouldn't keep the 600M for a long time, but it served its purpose without any hiccups and was rather quiet.

Your PSU is fine, you are only going to be overclocking one component, not two. Are there better quality PSUs available? Yes, that doesn't mean you have to rush out and buy the best one available. You can always buy one later if you need to, but for the time being, it is enough. The only instance where I would tell you to buy a new PSU is if you have used your current one for 3 Years.

We need to keep this section of the forum for G10 related discussion though. If you have a question about PSUs, you can ask elsewhere.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The G series of PSUs from Cooler Master are budget oriented PSUs, similar to the CX series from Corsair. It is not the best PSU available, not is it intended to be. For the system you have, it will work. It only has a 3 year warranty, so depending how long ago you purchased it, it might be time for a new one. Budget PSUs are good, I used to use a CX600M for my i5-4670k(4.7Ghz @ 1.275v) + GTX 780(1110Mhz). I only used it for 6 months until I had more money to buy a better PSU. Spending $40 to get me 6 months of use is very good because it allowed me to build my system at budget and still work. I knew going in that I wouldn't keep the 600M for a long time, but it served its purpose without any hiccups and was rather quiet.
> 
> Your PSU is fine, you are only going to be overclocking one component, not two. You can always buy one later if you need to, but for the time being, it is enough.


Ah alright thank you man! You really cleared all the misunderstandings i have.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Buy the Seksui Thermal Tape that I linked you. I am using the Cosmos Copper Heatsinks with the Seksui Thermal Tape and none of them have fallen off, it has been a month now and they are all holding strong.


Did you remove the stock tape before applying the seksui? Did you clean the surface with alcohol before sticking? Reason I ask is I have that seksui tape but I just stuck it on the stock crap and some still fell off. Some stuck though. Forgot to clean the surface also because I was excited to get them on and back to gaming.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Did you remove the stock tape before applying the seksui? Did you clean the surface with alcohol before sticking? Reason I ask is I have that seksui tape but I just stuck it on the stock crap and some still fell off. Some stuck though. Forgot to clean the surface also because I was excited to get them on and back to gaming.


It is extremely important to clean everything well with alcohol before applying any of these adhesive tapes or TIM. It can easily make the difference between it sticking and not sticking. Also, you could potentially make things worse leaving the old material on there.


----------



## xnoobftw

Anyone knows where are the VRAM on the r9 290 for heatsinks? :O


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Anyone knows where are the VRAM on the r9 290 for heatsinks? :O


Post up a photo.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Post up a photo.


http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/news/3/3/33068_01_amd_radeon_r9_290x_gpu_leaked_shots_bare_gpu_poses_for_the_camera.jpg

VRAMs are the black parts right?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/news/3/3/33068_01_amd_radeon_r9_290x_gpu_leaked_shots_bare_gpu_poses_for_the_camera.jpg
> 
> VRAMs are the black parts right?


Correct, the ones surrounding the GPU.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Correct, the ones surrounding the GPU.


are there any on the other side? i cant seem to find a pic of the back side


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> are there any on the other side? i cant seem to find a pic of the back side


Sinks are placed on the GPU side only. Most higher end GPUs have a back plate, and the GPUs are engineered with the hottest side toward the active cooler. Would seem unnecessary.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Sinks are placed on the GPU side only. Most higher end GPUs have a back plate, and the GPUs are engineered with the hottest side toward the active cooler. Would seem unnecessary.


Alright! thank you


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> are there any on the other side? i cant seem to find a pic of the back side


Not sure he answered your question correctly. There should be those "black parts" on both sides of the card, not sure about Radeon card but my Nvidia card(gtx 770) they are on both sides, and i have heatsinks on both sides. Hope that clears it up better


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Not sure he answered your question correctly. There should be those "black parts" on both sides of the card, not sure about Radeon card but my Nvidia card(gtx 770) they are on both sides, and i have heatsinks on both sides. Hope that clears it up better


Yeah I realize some people do have them on both sides. That does not mean they are necessary. We do not even know if they are necessary or even useful on the fan side yet. If they engineered the card with the reverse side not having any kind of passive or active cooling solution, it is not likely to be an issue.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Did you remove the stock tape before applying the seksui? Did you clean the surface with alcohol before sticking? Reason I ask is I have that seksui tape but I just stuck it on the stock crap and some still fell off. Some stuck though. Forgot to clean the surface also because I was excited to get them on and back to gaming.


Yes, absolutely. I would say that removing the stock adhesive tape from the heat sinks, cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol and then cutting down the Seksui tape to size was the most time consuming part of this mod. You also need to gently clean the areas where you will be attaching the heat sinks to. Once I got it all attached, I pressed firmly on each heat sink and then let it sit for an hour. I haven't had a single one fall on me and its been three, almost four weeks.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yes, absolutely. I would say that removing the stock adhesive tape from the heat sinks, cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol and then cutting down the Seksui tape to size was the most time consuming part of this mod. You also need to gently clean the areas where you will be attaching the heat sinks to. Once I got it all attached, I pressed firmly on each heat sink and then let it sit for an hour. I haven't had a single one fall on me and its been three, almost four weeks.


Are these any good? http://www.amazon.com/Kootek-Cooling-Copper-Heatsinks-Raspberry/dp/B00CJRZP9I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409065279&sr=8-2&keywords=vga+heatsink#cm_cr_dpwidget


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yes, absolutely. I would say that removing the stock adhesive tape from the heat sinks, cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol and then cutting down the Seksui tape to size was the most time consuming part of this mod. You also need to gently clean the areas where you will be attaching the heat sinks to. Once I got it all attached, I pressed firmly on each heat sink and then let it sit for an hour. I haven't had a single one fall on me and its been three, almost four weeks.


Or do i need to get these? http://www.amazon.com/Akasa-ak-tt12-80-Thermal-Adhesive-Tape/dp/B001GIM9V8/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409184505&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Seksui+thermal+tape


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Are these any good? http://www.amazon.com/Kootek-Cooling-Copper-Heatsinks-Raspberry/dp/B00CJRZP9I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409065279&sr=8-2&keywords=vga+heatsink#cm_cr_dpwidget


Cosmos VGA HeatSinks You might need a few packs, I'm not sure how many your card requires.

Cosmos Aluminum VGA HeatSinks 1 Pack should be enough.

Seksui Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape 1 Pack of 2 strips is enough, but I would buy 2 Packs just to be safe.

Optional Parts:
Thermal Paste of your own choosing, I recommend Gelid GC Extreme It needs to be heated up before use. Place it in a plastic bag and then boil for 5min before use. Works great for CPU and GPU. There are other less expensive options available.

VGA PWM Fan Adapter I like this because it allows you to plug the G10's 92mm fan into the video card, which frees up a motherboard fan header. You then control the fan speed in MSI Afterburner, just set it to a constant speed, no curve.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> VGA PWM Fan Adapter I like this because it allows you to plug the G10's 92mm fan into the video card, which frees up a motherboard fan header. You then control the fan speed in MSI Afterburner, just set it to a constant speed, no curve.


Was your card actually a 4 pin? Mine turned out to be 5 pin.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Cosmos VGA HeatSinks You might need a few packs, I'm not sure how many your card requires.
> 
> Cosmos Aluminum VGA HeatSinks 1 Pack should be enough.
> 
> Seksui Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape 1 Pack of 2 strips is enough, but I would buy 2 Packs just to be safe.
> 
> Optional Parts:
> Thermal Paste of your own choosing, I recommend Gelid GC Extreme It needs to be heated up before use. Place it in a plastic bag and then boil for 5min before use. Works great for CPU and GPU. There are other less expensive options available.
> 
> VGA PWM Fan Adapter I like this because it allows you to plug the G10's 92mm fan into the video card, which frees up a motherboard fan header. You then control the fan speed in MSI Afterburner, just set it to a constant speed, no curve.


Any other thermal tapes? (these dont ship to my country D: maybe something from amazon? im ordering the g10 and my h55 from amazon!)


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Cosmos VGA HeatSinks You might need a few packs, I'm not sure how many your card requires.
> 
> Cosmos Aluminum VGA HeatSinks 1 Pack should be enough.
> 
> Seksui Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape 1 Pack of 2 strips is enough, but I would buy 2 Packs just to be safe.
> 
> Optional Parts:
> Thermal Paste of your own choosing, I recommend Gelid GC Extreme It needs to be heated up before use. Place it in a plastic bag and then boil for 5min before use. Works great for CPU and GPU. There are other less expensive options available.
> 
> VGA PWM Fan Adapter I like this because it allows you to plug the G10's 92mm fan into the video card, which frees up a motherboard fan header. You then control the fan speed in MSI Afterburner, just set it to a constant speed, no curve.


Oh you do need an adaptor to attach it to the GPU itself? Wow i thought the G10 came with that!


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Cosmos VGA HeatSinks You might need a few packs, I'm not sure how many your card requires.
> 
> Cosmos Aluminum VGA HeatSinks 1 Pack should be enough.
> 
> Seksui Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape 1 Pack of 2 strips is enough, but I would buy 2 Packs just to be safe.
> 
> Optional Parts:
> Thermal Paste of your own choosing, I recommend Gelid GC Extreme It needs to be heated up before use. Place it in a plastic bag and then boil for 5min before use. Works great for CPU and GPU. There are other less expensive options available.
> 
> VGA PWM Fan Adapter I like this because it allows you to plug the G10's 92mm fan into the video card, which frees up a motherboard fan header. You then control the fan speed in MSI Afterburner, just set it to a constant speed, no curve.


Are they the same? http://www.amazon.com/GELID-Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A18K25N425Y52T
PS: im using an r9 290 but they said its for nvidia card tho


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Oh you do need an adaptor to attach it to the GPU itself? Wow i thought the G10 came with that!


Yeah you need an adapter to plug the fan into the gpu. You can plug it into the mainboard without issue though. The fan that comes with the G-10 is a standard 3 pin fan.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Was your card actually a 4 pin? Mine turned out to be 5 pin.


I'm not sure I understand the question? Whatever that adapter was that I link worked for my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooling


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah you need an adapter to plug the fan into the gpu. You can plug it into the mainboard without issue though. The fan that comes with the G-10 is a standard 3 pin fan.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm not sure I understand the question? Whatever that adapter was that I link worked for my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooling


Thoughts on getting this for even better VRAM/VRM cooling?
http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Adjustable-Dual-Cooler-TTC-SC07TZ/dp/B0069W28SU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1409051208&sr=8-4&keywords=pci+slot+fan


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Thoughts on getting this for even better VRAM/VRM cooling?
> http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Adjustable-Dual-Cooler-TTC-SC07TZ/dp/B0069W28SU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1409051208&sr=8-4&keywords=pci+slot+fan


No.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> No.


Not worth at all?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Not worth at all?


None. Just buy the heat sinks and thermal tape and the VGA to PWM adapter if you want.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> None. Just buy the heat sinks and thermal tape and the VGA to PWM adapter if you want.


alright thanks!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> Thoughts on getting this for even better VRAM/VRM cooling?
> http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Adjustable-Dual-Cooler-TTC-SC07TZ/dp/B0069W28SU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1409051208&sr=8-4&keywords=pci+slot+fan


That is completely unnecessary and will not cool your gpu down even 1C more over the H-55 cooler. ~90% of the heat generated off your video card will be exhausted out of the case at the radiator.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm not sure I understand the question? Whatever that adapter was that I link worked for my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooling


The header for my card is 5 pin not 4 like the adapter in the link. I was thinking that this would be consistent across vendors, apparently that is not the case.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> None. Just buy the heat sinks and thermal tape and the VGA to PWM adapter if you want.


hey unfortunatly those doesnt ship to my country D:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> That is completely unnecessary and will not cool your gpu down even 1C more over the H-55 cooler. ~90% of the heat generated off your video card will be exhausted out of the case at the radiator.


ahhh grrr all the heatsinks dont seem to be able to ship to my country! Now i need to get my own heatsink D:


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> hey unfortunatly those doesnt ship to my country D:
> ahhh grrr all the heatsinks dont seem to be able to ship to my country! Now i need to get my own heatsink D:


If you are like me and have plenty of old parts laying around, Making your own Heatsinks is do-able. I have taken sinks off of an old mainboard plenty of times for this purpose. A sink for a cpu can also be cut down to work.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If you are like me and have plenty of old parts laying around, Making your own Heatsinks is do-able. I have taken sinks off of an old mainboard plenty of times for this purpose. A sink for a cpu can also be cut down to work.


Luckily i have an electrical engineer for a dad







haha he has everything woooo haha


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah I realize some people do have them on both sides. That does not mean they are necessary. We do not even know if they are necessary or even useful on the fan side yet. If they engineered the card with the reverse side not having any kind of passive or active cooling solution, it is not likely to be an issue.


The question he asked which i find silly now, was is there the VRAM "black things" on the back of the card, which was yes. Found it silly since he could of just poped the side of his case off to figure that out*

*maybe he has a back plate idk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Was your card actually a 4 pin? Mine turned out to be 5 pin.


That is very weird, i have the Gigabyte GTX 770 and mine has 4-pin also....


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> That is very weird, i have the Gigabyte GTX 770 and mine has 4-pin also....


Yeah I really did not think there would be a variation, but thats what I get for thinking. I have a pair of these adapters if anyone needs them. LOL


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah I really did not think there would be a variation, but thats what I get for thinking. I have a pair of these adapters if anyone needs them. LOL


lol You have the GPU 4-pin to Fan 4-pin adapters? I could use one


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah I really did not think there would be a variation, but thats what I get for thinking. I have a pair of these adapters if anyone needs them. LOL


I cant order the PWN fan adaptors too..... fak hahaha mind if i buy them off you?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> lol You have the GPU 4-pin to Fan 4-pin adapters? I could use one


They are the 4 pin gpu fan header to 3 pin fan I think. Let me look when I get home


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> I cant order the PWN fan adaptors too..... fak hahaha mind if i buy them off you?


Where are you located?


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Where are you located?


singapore!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnoobftw*
> 
> singapore!


Holy crap.... no offense buddy but I really do not want to fool with shipping these overseas. I was just going to let someone have them, put a cheap stamp on an envelope and throw it in a mailbox.


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Holy crap.... no offense buddy but I really do not want to fool with shipping these overseas. I was just going to let someone have them, put a cheap stamp on an envelope and throw it in a mailbox.


Nah no worries! I have loads of fan slots on my MOBO too


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Holy crap.... no offense buddy but I really do not want to fool with shipping these overseas. I was just going to let someone have them, put a cheap stamp on an envelope and throw it in a mailbox.


Ill take them I'm in michigan.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Ill take them I'm in michigan.


PM me your info


----------



## xnoobftw

Is 10 aluminium heatsinks enough for the all of the VRAM on r9 290?
(and is this a good thermal adhesive for the heatsink? http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-Tube/dp/B0009IQ1BU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409281759&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+adhesive )


----------



## xnoobftw

And guys may i ask is this the correct reference model of the r9 290 (so can i place the g10 on it?







)
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-4GB-Graphics-Cards-R9290-4GD5/dp/B00GJSUNE0/ref=sr_1_15?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1409282382&sr=1-15&keywords=r9+290


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

@xnoobftw, yeah the g10 will work on a reference 290. also that adhesive is permanent so make sure your ok with leaving the heatsinks on for good....
what heatsinks are you looking at getting???
I think these are suggested, just get a couple of sets and you should be good.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1


----------



## xnoobftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> @xnoobftw, yeah the g10 will work on a reference 290. also that adhesive is permanent so make sure your ok with leaving the heatsinks on for good....
> what heatsinks are you looking at getting???
> I think these are suggested, just get a couple of sets and you should be good.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1


Im getting http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWXW6E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1S9W9A986D3KF because they are the only heatsinks that ships to my country T.T lol....


----------



## maynard14

hey guys, quick question, will the xspc razor 290x backplate will work for nzxt g10? so that it looks clean and at the same time cools the vrm memories? i might buy it if it is compatible

http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Razor-R9-290X--290-Backplate_43421.html


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> hey guys, quick question, will the xspc razor 290x backplate will work for nzxt g10? so that it looks clean and at the same time cools the vrm memories? i might buy it if it is compatible
> 
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Razor-R9-290X--290-Backplate_43421.html


No, this is designed to screw into a water block.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> No, this is designed to screw into a water block.


thanks sir









any other suggestion for a backplate compatible with reference 290x? except heatkiller


----------



## heyitschris

Pretty sure I'm the first in the world to do this.

Ladies and gentlemen. I give you. The FirePro W7000 Kraken!!



Didn't really benchmark anything before I put it on, but I can inform you that
when I used Maya + Unreal Engine at once the temp was up in 87c.
After attaching the temp is at a nice 57c.

Worth it!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heyitschris*
> 
> Pretty sure I'm the first in the world to do this.
> 
> Ladies and gentlemen. I give you. The FirePro W7000 Kraken!!
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't really benchmark anything before I put it on, but I can inform you that
> when I used Maya + Unreal Engine at once the temp was up in 87c.
> After attaching the temp is at a nice 57c.
> 
> Worth it!










I have two Firepros here at the office, although I do not think those guys are going to get them very hot at the rate they work.


----------



## MonarchX

Has anyone figured out a way to truly cool down the VRM and VRAM chips when using this bracket? VRM and VRAM heatsinks + fan blowing on them still keeps them hotter than when using a stock/reference cooler or one like EVGA ACX.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> Has anyone figured out a way to truly cool down the VRM and VRAM chips when using this bracket? VRM and VRAM heatsinks + fan blowing on them still keeps them hotter than when using a stock/reference cooler or one like EVGA ACX.


Vrms and vram have run cooler than with the factory air cooler on both of my gpus. to get more serious cooling on the vrms and vram you are probably going to have to go with a full water block.


----------



## falcon26

So let me get this straight. If I were to use the G10 on my Msi Gaming 780 Ti, all I would need is the G10 and the H55 and that is it? No small rams sinks or vrms or messy glue to deal with etc etc? Just the G10 and the H55 and that is it?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> So let me get this straight. If I were to use the G10 on my Msi Gaming 780 Ti, all I would need is the G10 and the H55 and that is it? No small rams sinks or vrms or messy glue to deal with etc etc? Just the G10 and the H55 and that is it?


Yup, because your card comes with a pre-installed VRM & VRAM cooling plate. All you would need is the G10 and AIO of your choice. One optional piece that I recommend is the VGA to 4-pin PWM Fan Adapter
 I like it because it frees up a motherboard fan header. All you do is go into AfterBurner and set your fan to a constant % instead of having it on a fan curve.

You don't need glue to attach heatsinks though. There is some high quality double sided adhesive thermal tape that works just as well and is not permanent. My EVGA GTX 780 SC came with a base-plate that cools the VRMs and VRAMs, but just to be careful, I attached some heatsinks using the thermal tape.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> Has anyone figured out a way to truly cool down the VRM and VRAM chips when using this bracket? VRM and VRAM heatsinks + fan blowing on them still keeps them hotter than when using a stock/reference cooler or one like EVGA ACX.


Yes. I have the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler and I did the G10 mod to it. If you choose to keep the Baseplate on, you will need to use a Copper Shim so that the AIO makes proper contact. I linked you the exact Copper Shim that I used. Make sure that it is 20mm x 20mm x .8mm.

The EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler does come with a baseplate that already cools the VRMs and VRAM, so you could skip the heatsinks if you want to. I kept my baseplate on and added heatsinks just to be careful though. Here are the components that I bought:

2 Packs of Cosmos VGA Copper Heatsinks
1 Pack of Cosmos VGA Aluminum Heatsinks
1 Pack of Seksui Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape
If you are keeping the baseplate on, which you should, you HAVE to buy a Copper Shim and use Thermal Paste on both sides. 20mm x 20mm x .8mm.

Optional: VGA to 4-pin PWM Fan Adapter This lets you plug in the 92mm Fan into the Video Card(controllable through MSI Afterburner) instead of onto a motherboard fan header.
Optional: Hopefully you already have some Thermal Paste, if not you will have to buy some. I recommend Gelid GC Extreme It is more expensive than other Thermal Pastes, but I like it and the temperatures are very good as a result. Dropped my CPU by 3C from the Cooler Master thermal paste that comes with their coolers. It also dropped my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler's temperatures by 4C from the stock thermal paste that was used. Before using this thermal paste, you need to put it in a plastic zip-loc bag and boil it. Otherwise it is very hard to work with.

This is a time consuming mod, and is kind of difficult to put together and mount by yourself, but it can be done. The most time consuming part, and this is mandatory if you choose to add heatsinks, is you have to remove the tape that comes pre-applied to the heat sinks. You have to first clean off all of the thermal tape on the heatsinks, then clean the bottoms with isopropyl alcohol. Then clean off the base plate or wherever you will be applying the heat sinks to with isopropyl alcohol. Let dry. Then you cut down the Seksui thermal tape for each individual heat sink. This way proper adhesion will occur and the heat sinks wont fall off, and heat transfer will be at its best.

To give you an idea of the performance of the G10 on the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler my temperatures went from low 70s with a fan curve to never hitting 50C when fans and pump are at 60% speed on my X31. I used the Kraken X31 as my AIO--I would personally not recommend this AIO unless you have a super large case and need all 16 inches of tubing. I have 2 fans in Push/Pull as an exhaust in my Phanteks Enthoo Pro.


----------



## MonarchX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yes. I have the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler and I did the G10 mod to it. If you choose to keep the Baseplate on, you will need to use a Copper Shim so that the AIO makes proper contact. I linked you the exact Copper Shim that I used. Make sure that it is 20mm x 20mm x .8mm.
> 
> The EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler does come with a baseplate that already cools the VRMs and VRAM, so you could skip the heatsinks if you want to. I kept my baseplate on and added heatsinks just to be careful though. Here are the components that I bought:
> 
> 2 Packs of Cosmos VGA Copper Heatsinks
> 1 Pack of Cosmos VGA Aluminum Heatsinks
> 1 Pack of Seksui Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape
> If you are keeping the baseplate on, which you should, you HAVE to buy a Copper Shim and use Thermal Paste on both sides. 20mm x 20mm x .8mm.
> 
> Optional: VGA to 4-pin PWM Fan Adapter This lets you plug in the 92mm Fan into the Video Card(controllable through MSI Afterburner) instead of onto a motherboard fan header.
> Optional: Hopefully you already have some Thermal Paste, if not you will have to buy some. I recommend Gelid GC Extreme It is more expensive than other Thermal Pastes, but I like it and the temperatures are very good as a result. Dropped my CPU by 3C from the Cooler Master thermal paste that comes with their coolers. It also dropped my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler's temperatures by 4C from the stock thermal paste that was used. Before using this thermal paste, you need to put it in a plastic zip-loc bag and boil it. Otherwise it is very hard to work with.
> 
> This is a time consuming mod, and is kind of difficult to put together and mount by yourself, but it can be done. The most time consuming part, and this is mandatory if you choose to add heatsinks, is you have to remove the tape that comes pre-applied to the heat sinks. You have to first clean off all of the thermal tape on the heatsinks, then clean the bottoms with isopropyl alcohol. Then clean off the base plate or wherever you will be applying the heat sinks to with isopropyl alcohol. Let dry. Then you cut down the Seksui thermal tape for each individual heat sink. This way proper adhesion will occur and the heat sinks wont fall off, and heat transfer will be at its best.
> 
> To give you an idea of the performance of the G10 on the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler my temperatures went from low 70s with a fan curve to never hitting 50C when fans and pump are at 60% speed on my X31. I used the Kraken X31 as my AIO--I would personally not recommend this AIO unless you have a super large case and need all 16 inches of tubing. I have 2 fans in Push/Pull as an exhaust in my Phanteks Enthoo Pro.


Thank you so much! But how do you know your VRAM and VRM chips are not getting HOTTER than they used to with stock or ACX cooler? Have you measured maximum load temps of those VRM chips before the mod and after?

I hope my case is big enough for this mod - take a look at it please, and there are more pics in my sig:


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> Thank you so much! But how do you know your VRAM and VRM chips are not getting HOTTER than they used to with stock or ACX cooler? Have you measured maximum load temps of those VRM chips before the mod and after?
> 
> I hope my case is big enough for this mod - take a look at it please, and there are more pics in my sig:


Ya, that is plenty of room. You could even go SLI, both with G10s and have enough room. Also, it is possible for you to keep your Backplate installed with the G10 Mod. What you will have to do is either remove the foam piece entirely or cut down the foam pad that comes on the G10's back-mount. I didn't want to remove the foam entirely, so I opted to cut down the foam. The reason for this is because if the foam pad is left on, the screws are not long enough to allow for the EVGA Backplate.

I have no way of telling if my VRAM and VRMs are hotter than before because this card doesn't come with heat sensors for the VRAM and VRMs. To my knowledge, only Lightning, Classified, and Matrix cards come with these sensors. I have experienced zero problems whatsoever with either stock ACX Cooler or G10 + Heat Sinks.

The most common critical review of the G10 Modification is from Puget Systems where they show an infrared picture of the GTX Titan with stock cooler and with G10. It does show that the VRMs get hotter without the stock Titan heatsink, but you have to keep some things in mind:
#1 They are using Furmark/Kombustor, which is a dangerous program that puts unnecessary heat and load onto the GPU. This program should NEVER be used, I have bricked a brand new, GTX 770 Lightning at stock earlier this year just by running Kombustor. Stay away from Furmark/Kombustor! In real-world scenarios, namely gaming, you will never ever come remotely close to the amount of stress that is put onto your GPU like with Furmark/Kombustor. Unigine Heaven is a safe, and realistic benchmark/stress test that shows what you can really expect in terms of performance and heat. When you look at the infrared pictures of the Titan with stock cooler and G10, you see that the VRM temps remain about the same and arguably better with the G10.
#2 They are using a reference Titan for their tests, reference cards don't come with a baseplate to cool the VRM and VRAM, so immediately you can already expect improved temperatures with our EVGA non-reference cards(if you keep the baseplate).
#3 They did not use any heatsinks for their cards.

After taking all of those things into account, you should see that the G10 mod is perfectly safe, even without added heatsinks as long as you do not use Furmark/Kombustor. Many forum members opted to skip the heat sinks because they knew they would never run Furmark/Kombustor. I know that I will never run those programs, but I added them anyways just to be safe.

On an unrelated note, I see that you have a Cooler Master 212 EVO. It is an amazing CPU Cooler and I used to have one too. I recently upgraded to a Cooler Master Seidon 240M because it is at an incredibly low price and I would like to recommend it to you. You can buy one on Newegg for $60 after MIR. That is an insane price for a 240mm AIO. Scroll down to the bottom of my link on the first post and you can see my Review With Statistics for the 212 EVO compared to the Seidon 240M. Using both the Seidon 240M + G10/X31 both my CPU and GPU never exceed 49C while gaming when fans are around 60% speed. It is incredibly powerful and quiet, and altogether I paid less than $200 for a water cooled GPU + CPU. The Gelid GC Extreme Thermal Paste did help drop me below the 50C mark, so something to keep in mind.


----------



## maynard14

painted my nzxt g10 black to red paint! haha

im happy with the result


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Maynard14

That looks really cool with the RoG badge on it. Not sure why you wouldn't just get red to start with though, as it matches your build so much better.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Maynard14
> 
> That looks really cool with the RoG badge on it. Not sure why you wouldn't just get red to start with though, as it matches your build so much better.


ahaha thanks sir, yeah when the nzxt g10 first batch release here in the philippines there is no available g10 in red color, only white and black, so i decided to spray it with a cheap spray paint, really happy with the result

last picture guys im just really proud of the the result haha


----------



## falcon26

I was just going to ask about painting it  I want to paint the black one a nice flat black and cover the nzxt logo. I have some plastic black spray paint. I'm very close to ordered it. I just want to make sure the H55 will reach the front of my fractal r4 case. I also want to find a replacement 92mm fan as well. I want one that is all black and silent with sleeved cable. I know the noctua one is the best but that color on it is really ugly. I guess I could always paint it as well...


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I was just going to ask about painting it  I want to paint the black one a nice flat black and cover the nzxt logo. I have some plastic black spray paint. I'm very close to ordered it. I just want to make sure the H55 will reach the front of my fractal r4 case. I also want to find a replacement 92mm fan as well. I want one that is all black and silent with sleeved cable. I know the noctua one is the best but that color on it is really ugly. I guess I could always paint it as well...


A couple things:
The H55 will not reach the front of your case unless you have a mATX Case or smaller. Also, you want the G10's AIO to be set as exhaust because the heat that is created from your GPU under load is much more than CPU. You want that heat going out of your case not directly into it. I understand your thought process of getting the coldest possible air as intake, but trust me, you want your GPU's AIO as exhaust.

The included fan is very good and nearly silent even at max RPM. What you could do is paint that included fan as well, makes sense since you are already painting the bracket. A sleeved cable is going to be a hard find.


----------



## falcon26

Dam. Then no G10 for me. I already have a H55 in the rear with my CPU. Oh well...


----------



## curly haired boy

i can assume the h55 is basically the 27 mm rad plus the 27 mm fan? i have an h100i in the top of my nzxt h440, and might not have the clearance to mount it in the back.

if i get the x31, i might be able to mount it in the roof... hmm.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Dam. Then no G10 for me. I already have a H55 in the rear with my CPU. Oh well...


You can't move the CPU's H55 to the top of your case and set it to exhaust?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> i can assume the h55 is basically the 27 mm rad plus the 27 mm fan? i have an h100i in the top of my nzxt h440, and might not have the clearance to mount it in the back.
> 
> if i get the x31, i might be able to mount it in the roof... hmm.


27mm radiator + 25mm fan. You *should* have room to mount it as your exhaust, measure to make sure.


----------



## falcon26

Aw I guess I could. Is it for sure that the H55 will not reach the front of the case? I think it would look ugly on the top myself...I could mount it on the bottom..


----------



## curly haired boy

yeah, but i have 38mm delta fans on my h100i, so i'm thinking i'll just move the whole thing forward to the front-most fan slots on the top of the case. then i should have plenty of clearance.

it might look funky though.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> yeah, but i have 38mm delta fans on my h100i, so i'm thinking i'll just move the whole thing forward to the front-most fan slots on the top of the case. then i should have plenty of clearance.
> 
> it might look funky though.


Whatever works.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Aw I guess I could. Is it for sure that the H55 will not reach the front of the case? I think it would look ugly on the top myself...I could mount it on the bottom..


I'm 99% sure that it won't reach with the front using the H55. The tubing is short, I think 10-12 inches.
Your best bet is to move the H55 for your CPU to the top of your chassis and install the new H55 onto the rear of the chassis.


----------



## falcon26

Yea I looked it up. It will not. So I would have to mount it to the rear or top. And set both as exhaust. Then I would leave my 2 front fans as exhausts as well or intakes....


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Yea I looked it up. It will not. So I would have to mount it to the rear or top. And set both as exhaust. Then I would leave my 2 front fans as exhausts as well or intakes....


Front fans would become intakes. You want the air to flow from the front of your case out the back and up.


----------



## wisecrack

I am planning on getting a Kraken to cool my Evga Kingin.

Could anyone tell me if I could replace the standard 92mm Nzxt fan with a F9 PWM fan from Arctic.

Will the 4 pin header on the F9 be able to plug into header on the Kingpin's PCB?

Here is the link http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/arctic-f9-pwm-co.html


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wisecrack*
> 
> I am planning on getting a Kraken to cool my Evga Kingin.
> 
> Could anyone tell me if I could replace the standard 92mm Nzxt fan with a F9 PWM fan from Arctic.
> 
> Will the 4 pin header on the F9 be able to plug into header on the Kingpin's PCB?
> 
> Here is the link http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/arctic-f9-pwm-co.html


I do not think the fans 4 pin header will work on the GPUs fan header. There are adapters to help you get past this however if you want the GPU controlling the fan. As for the fan itself, you can put whatever 92 mm fan on there that you like.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wisecrack*
> 
> I am planning on getting a Kraken to cool my Evga Kingin.
> 
> Could anyone tell me if I could replace the standard 92mm Nzxt fan with a F9 PWM fan from Arctic.
> 
> Will the 4 pin header on the F9 be able to plug into header on the Kingpin's PCB?
> 
> Here is the link http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/arctic-f9-pwm-co.html


If you buy this VGA to 4pin PWM Adapter it will work.

You might also want to pick up a Copper Shim just in case your graphics card requires one for the cooler to make proper contact. Make sure you buy the copper shim that I linked you. 20mm x 20mm x .8mm


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> A couple things:
> The H55 will not reach the front of your case unless you have a mATX Case or smaller. Also, you want the G10's AIO to be set as exhaust because the heat that is created from your GPU under load is much more than CPU. You want that heat going out of your case not directly into it. I understand your thought process of getting the coldest possible air as intake, but trust me, you want your GPU's AIO as exhaust.
> 
> The included fan is very good and nearly silent even at max RPM. What you could do is paint that included fan as well, makes sense since you are already painting the bracket. A sleeved cable is going to be a hard find.


how bout mine sir should change my sp fans og my nzxt g10 to exhaust to?


----------



## benfica101

Build Uptate: Replaced stock H55 fans to Corsair SP120


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benfica101*
> 
> Build Uptate: Replaced stock H55 fans to Corsair SP120


looks great bro! may as well put my sp fans to exhaust haha


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> how bout mine sir should change my sp fans og my nzxt g10 to exhaust to?


you could change the rear fan to intake, move your top rad to intake (cooler CPU temps hotter case ambient temps) and then have the front GPU rad as exhaust. should work as the GPU's seem to suffer less from intaking warm air than CPU's tend to, and it should hopefully maintain some positive pressure inside your case as well to minimize the dust gathering.

my 2c anyway


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> you could change the rear fan to intake, move your top rad to intake (cooler CPU temps hotter case ambient temps) and then have the front GPU rad as exhaust. should work as the GPU's seem to suffer less from intaking warm air than CPU's tend to, and it should hopefully maintain some positive pressure inside your case as well to minimize the dust gathering.
> 
> my 2c anyway


thank you sir,. i will try i now,. i have nothing to do ahaha


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> thank you sir,. i will try i now,. i have nothing to do ahaha


Yup, that was my exact thought. Switch it around so that your airflow is intaking from the back/top and exhausting from the front. This should improve your CPU temperatures quiet a bit, and hopefully your GPU temperatures.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Finally getting around to posting a picture of my G10 Mod:


----------



## maynard14

Hahaha, done ! Gpu radiator as exhaust... But not so much diff on the temps of the gpu and cpu.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> Hahaha, done ! Gpu radiator as exhaust... But not so much diff on the temps of the gpu and cpu.


Play a game like BF4 for an hour or so and your CPU temps should be lower than whatever they were before.


----------



## maynard14

Yup sir. Still the same temp.. Max after playing crysis 3 on cpu is 60c on the gpu core 59c but still temps are really ok im not complaning except the vrm 1 on the vcard 71c


----------



## Tesshin

I am getting another x41 to replace the x40. So it looks equal in height. I was planning on getting the radiators in the front but the radiators on x41 is so thick I cant have them there and still have harddrive bays.

It works ok at the bottom but I may believe its not the best point to suck air in from the case.

If I have the CAM settings on silent I get above 50 degrees, and I get 44 at max when running performance.

Idle temps is as 27 to 32.


----------



## 031Dutch

hi all

i am new @ overclock

if i type something wrong that comes maybe off my bad english XD

i see that many people have here the nzxt g10 with lots off diffrent settings
i thinking about also buying the nzxt g10. with the corsair h90 on it.

like many people here i read there a problems with the vram and heatsinks is use full on it.

i own a asus direct cuii gtx 780 all @ stock speeds.

when i test a game with temps. its about gpu temp 70 C. and the vram are all ready at about 80 C.
with no overclock.

what will happen if i build the g10 on it will the vram get much higher or will this be the same or it gets lower that will be good

whats your idea for this?

i cant find much data on the g10 fan.
or will a other fan help?


----------



## falcon26

I see people have the H55 installed on the GPU and then mounted in the front of the case. Maybe it will reach the front of my case or am I missing something here?


----------



## jason387

I have a liquid cooler and was wanting to use if for my gpu. My gpu is the Zotac GTX 650Ti. Can anyone tell me if the NZXT G10 would fit?? Please help.


----------



## Tesshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> I have a liquid cooler and was wanting to use if for my gpu. My gpu is the Zotac GTX 650Ti. Can anyone tell me if the NZXT G10 would fit?? Please help.


You can check compability here: http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I see people have the H55 installed on the GPU and then mounted in the front of the case. Maybe it will reach the front of my case or am I missing something here?


They must have a very small case then. The hoses are only 10 or 12 inches which is short. Also keep in mind that the bracket will be further away from the front of the chassis.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> hi all
> 
> i am new @ overclock
> 
> if i type something wrong that comes maybe off my bad english XD
> 
> i see that many people have here the nzxt g10 with lots off diffrent settings
> i thinking about also buying the nzxt g10. with the corsair h90 on it.
> 
> like many people here i read there a problems with the vram and heatsinks is use full on it.
> 
> i own a asus direct cuii gtx 780 all @ stock speeds.
> 
> when i test a game with temps. its about gpu temp 70 C. and the vram are all ready at about 80 C.
> with no overclock.
> 
> what will happen if i build the g10 on it will the vram get much higher or will this be the same or it gets lower that will be good
> 
> whats your idea for this?
> 
> i cant find much data on the g10 fan.
> or will a other fan help?


I am not sure if the H90 is compatible with the G10, you will have to research that. If it is compatible then you're in luck! It is possible to not use VRAM and VRM heat sinks, but it is always a good idea to buy some to protect yourself. You can buy some cheap ones that will work very well. I know you're in the Netherlands, but here is a link to what they should look like: Aluminum Heat Sinks A single pack of 20 will be enough for all of the VRMs and VRAM. You will want to remove the thermal tape that comes with the Aluminum Heat Sinks and apply your own, I recommend Sekisui Thermal Tape. The Asus DCUII Cooler comes with a pre-installed base-plate that passively cools the VRAM and VRMs already, so adding heat sinks on top of the base plate will help even more. The only time when VRAM and VRMs get dangerously hot is when a program called Furmark or Kombustor is used. This is a very bad program to use even with a stock GPU as it has been known to break cards, it happened to me. Regular gaming use will not cause your VRMs and VRAM to overheat and the fan does a good job of dissipating the heat. For regular gaming, you will be just fine.


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I am not sure if the H90 is compatible with the G10, you will have to research that. If it is compatible then you're in luck! It is possible to not use VRAM and VRM heat sinks, but it is always a good idea to buy some to protect yourself. You can buy some cheap ones that will work very well. I know you're in the Netherlands, but here is a link to what they should look like: Aluminum Heat Sinks A single pack of 20 will be enough for all of the VRMs and VRAM. You will want to remove the thermal tape that comes with the Aluminum Heat Sinks and apply your own, I recommend Sekisui Thermal Tape. The Asus DCUII Cooler comes with a pre-installed base-plate that passively cools the VRAM
> and VRMs already, so adding heat sinks on top of the base plate will help even more. The only time when VRAM and VRMs get dangerously hot is when a program called Furmark or Kombustor is used. This is a very bad program to use even with a stock GPU as it has been known to break cards, it happened to me. Regular gaming use will not cause your VRMs and VRAM to overheat and the fan does a good job of dissipating the heat. For regular gaming, you will be just fine.


hi. I now that the h90 is compatible on the g10. That they say on the nzxt site.

I watched a linus tech tip video on the asus gtx 780 on the vrm i think there is al ready heatsink.
A black one.

People on this forum saying that the best is vrm with heatsinks and the vram doesnt give much heat.
I dont gona overclock my gpu.

I dont use any of that bench marks software instead i use bf 4. Because thats the game i play much
when i play bf 4 the gpu is around 70 and the vram is about 80 de grees. I now thats al ready hot with a stockcooler
so that makes me think that vrm gets hotter when i placed the g10
I read few post that there vrm is got hotter on people gpu with g10 on it


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> hi. I now that the h90 is compatible on the g10. That they say on the nzxt site.
> 
> I watched a linus tech tip video on the asus gtx 780 on the vrm i think there is al ready heatsink.
> A black one.
> 
> People on this forum saying that the best is vrm with heatsinks and the vram doesnt give much heat.
> I dont gona overclock my gpu.
> 
> I dont use any of that bench marks software instead i use bf 4. Because thats the game i play much
> when i play bf 4 the gpu is around 70 and the vram is about 80 de grees. I now thats al ready hot with a stockcooler
> so that makes me think that vrm gets hotter when i placed the g10
> I read few post that there vrm is got hotter on people gpu with g10 on it


Ahh good, the H90 will work, you should use that! Make sure to set it as your exhaust.

I have an EVGA GTX 780 SC, BF4 is a great benchmark/stress test because it is a real-world example, and it stresses the CPU and GPU a decent amount. My 780 was hitting 72C during BF4, after buying the G10 + X31, I never hit 50C, the highest I have ever seen it go was 49C. This is with 2 Fans in push/pull @ 60% Fan speed, pump is at 85% speed. I have no way of measuring the VRM temperatures. VRAM you don't need to worry about, its only the VRMs that are the issue. My 780 came with a base plate also, so it is fair to assume that my VRM temperatures were probably similar to yours. 80C is a perfectly ok temperature for the VRMs, and they should be the same or decrease with the G10 modification. Read this review of the G10 by Puguet Systems Ignore the Furmark tests, those are dangerous and you already said you will never run that program. As you can see from the Infrared pictures of the Unigine Heaven benchmark, the VRM temperatures stayed the same. Also, he used a GTX Titan, the Titan doesn't have a passive heatsink/VRM cooler like the cards we have, so already our temperatures will be lower. If you want to be on the safe side, you can add aluminum heat sinks. You already said that you wont be overclocking, so the VRMs should not be an issue if you.


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ahh good, the H90 will work, you should use that! Make sure to set it as your exhaust.
> 
> I have an EVGA GTX 780 SC, BF4 is a great benchmark/stress test because it is a real-world example, and it stresses the CPU and GPU a decent amount. My 780 was hitting 72C during BF4, after buying the G10 + X31, I never hit 50C, the highest I have ever seen it go was 49C. This is with 2 Fans in push/pull @ 60% Fan speed, pump is at 85% speed. I have no way of measuring the VRM temperatures. VRAM you don't need to worry about, its only the VRMs that are the issue. My 780 came with a base plate also, so it is fair to assume that my VRM temperatures were probably similar to yours. 80C is a perfectly ok temperature for the VRMs, and they should be the same or decrease with the G10 modification. Read this review of the G10 by Puguet Systems Ignore the Furmark tests, those are dangerous and you already said you will never run that program. As you can see from the Infrared pictures of the Unigine Heaven benchmark, the VRM temperatures stayed the same. Also, he used a GTX Titan, the Titan doesn't have a passive heatsink/VRM cooler like the cards we have, so already our temperatures will be lower. If you want to be on the safe side, you can add aluminum heat sinks. You already said that you wont be overclocking, so the VRMs should not be an issue if you.


hi. Ok that great.
I use always the gpu z. You can see that also on the vrm temps when scrolling down.
I will wait until end of this month so what i gona do with it. And read more posts
but its looking positif

thnx for the help


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> hi. Ok that great.
> I use always the gpu z. You can see that also on the vrm temps when scrolling down.
> I will wait until end of this month so what i gona do with it. And read more posts
> but its looking positif
> 
> thnx for the help


Not all GTX 780s include sensors that monitor the VRM temperatures. You are lucky and own one of the ones that does. Please let us know what your temperatures are before and after. And if you add heat sinks, do some tests with heat sinks before and after please. We would love to have that information if you are willing to take the time to run the tests.

Ya, read more posts, gather as much information as you can. This is a great community of G10 Owners and everyone is very helpful. If you ever have any questions, just ask.


----------



## ph0ton

I have a Gigabyte GTX 780 TI OC which I am considering water cooling using the G10 bracket and an AIO cooler. I'd like to know your experiences regarding noise levels of AIOs. I bought the gigabyte card because it was cited as being very quiet (later I have noticed that only some reviews claimed that). However, when playing Far Cry 3 the cooler spins up to 60-70% and becomes very noisy.

I am considering getting a kraken X61 or similar 280 mm AIO Asetek cooler to cool the card, but I'd like to hear if you believe that this would give me a quiet cooling solution?. In addition, I've seen that some claims that the 240 and 280 mm does not give any appreciable performance difference over the 120-140 mm AIOs? What if the focus is on quiet operation?

My focus is purely on reasonable quiet performance, not on overclocking.

Bonus question: Does the NZXT CAM software allow to regulate fan speed according to GPU temperature?

Thx for the help in advance!

B.R.
Ph0ton


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Not all GTX 780s include sensors that monitor the VRM temperatures. You are lucky and own one of the ones that does. Please let us know what your temperatures are before and after. And if you add heat sinks, do some tests with heat sinks before and after please. We would love to have that information if you are willing to take the time to run the tests.
> 
> Ya, read more posts, gather as much information as you can. This is a great community of G10 Owners and everyone is very helpful. If you ever have any questions, just ask.


hi yes i gona do that for sure. also for future members it will maybe help


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ph0ton*
> 
> I have a Gigabyte GTX 780 TI OC which I am considering water cooling using the G10 bracket and an AIO cooler. I'd like to know your experiences regarding noise levels of AIOs. I bought the gigabyte card because it was cited as being very quiet (later I have noticed that only some reviews claimed that). However, when playing Far Cry 3 the cooler spins up to 60-70% and becomes very noisy.
> 
> I am considering getting a kraken X61 or similar 280 mm AIO Asetek cooler to cool the card, but I'd like to hear if you believe that this would give me a quiet cooling solution?. In addition, I've seen that some claims that the 240 and 280 mm does not give any appreciable performance difference over the 120-140 mm AIOs? What if the focus is on quiet operation?
> 
> My focus is purely on reasonable quiet performance, not on overclocking.
> 
> Bonus question: Does the NZXT CAM software allow to regulate fan speed according to GPU temperature?
> 
> Thx for the help in advance!
> 
> B.R.
> Ph0ton


Thats a shame about the Windforce Cooler being loud, I have heard nothing but good things about its performance and noise. If you are on a 60Hz Monitor, try enabling V-Sync so that the GPU doesn't need to work harder than it needs to, which should reduce the temperatures and in turn the noise levels. Could also try setting a Fan Curve in MSI Afterburner.

You are right about the larger AIOs, they don't give you much of a performance increase over 120mm AIOs, 5-8C at most. The sweet spot is the least expensive 120mm, usually and H55 and buy a 2nd 120mm fan for it. The 2nd fan is optional, but it only costs $10 and it allows you to run both fans at a lower RPM for the same performance with lower noise. If your focus really is on absolute silent operation and you have the room to spare in your case, then yes, a 240mm or larger AIO might be worthwhile.

I personally run an X31 with 2 Fans in Push/Pull @ 60% Fan Speed. My GPU never gets hotter than 49C and it is extremely quiet. I did have a problem with the X31's Pump making a really bad rattling noise, but I eventually got it figured out. Turns out the pump didn't like PWM Control, and it needed DC Control.

Yes, CAM software does allow you to create a fan profile based on Liquid Temperature. I tried out CAM for awhile,and I was not impressed. It is a massive resource hog, boosting your CPU to as high as 40% usage when running and it had a serious lag time between changing a value in the program and it taking effect in your system. I ended up uninstalling it and using my motherboard fan headers + Fan Xpert III to control everything. Another thing that pissed me off about the X31 is that they claim "Variable Speed Pump" but in CAM there is no option to change the speed of the pump. I ended up hooking it up to my motherboard fan header and controlling it that way.

Hope this helps, reply back with any questions!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> hi yes i gona do that for sure. also for future members it will maybe help


Yes, definitely. It would be a great help for all future members who are interested in the G10. A lot of people are incredibly skeptical of its performance because a lot of misinformation is out there. This G10 Owner's Club is proof of the performance gains that can be had by doing this easy modification.


----------



## ph0ton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Thats a shame about the Windforce Cooler being loud, I have heard nothing but good things about its performance and noise. If you are on a 60Hz Monitor, try enabling V-Sync so that the GPU doesn't need to work harder than it needs to, which should reduce the temperatures and in turn the noise levels. Could also try setting a Fan Curve in MSI Afterburner.


I'll definitely remember to check Vsync. About the windforce cooler, I had a GTX 470 SOC for almost 4 yrs which was a fantastic and whisper quiet card. This card was the reason why i bought the 780 TI OC in expectation of getting the same result. I was surprised that the WF cooler performed so much worse, the 470 was very power hungry = 216W almost as much as the 780 Ti = 238 W. My gut feeling is that the TIM might badly applied by Gigabyte. However speaking to their support was not very helpful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You are right about the larger AIOs, they don't give you much of a performance increase over 120mm AIOs, 5-8C at most. The sweet spot is the least expensive 120mm, usually and H55 and buy a 2nd 120mm fan for it. The 2nd fan is optional, but it only costs $10 and it allows you to run both fans at a lower RPM for the same performance with lower noise. If your focus really is on absolute silent operation and you have the room to spare in your case, then yes, a 240mm or larger AIO might be worthwhile.
> I personally run an X31 with 2 Fans in Push/Pull @ 60% Fan Speed. My GPU never gets hotter than 49C and it is extremely quiet. I did have a problem with the X31's Pump making a really bad rattling noise, but I eventually got it figured out. Turns out the pump didn't like PWM Control, and it needed DC Control.


I think I'll I go with the 240 mm or 280 mm (whatever will fit in the top of the 350d), the price difference isn't that big, and I'd rather mount a cooler once to reduce risk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yes, CAM software does allow you to create a fan profile based on Liquid Temperature. I tried out CAM for awhile,and I was not impressed. It is a massive resource hog, boosting your CPU to as high as 40% usage when running and it had a serious lag time between changing a value in the program and it taking effect in your system. I ended up uninstalling it and using my motherboard fan headers + Fan Xpert III to control everything. Another thing that pissed me off about the X31 is that they claim "Variable Speed Pump" but in CAM there is no option to change the speed of the pump. I ended up hooking it up to my motherboard fan header and controlling it that way.
> 
> Hope this helps, reply back with any questions!


It did - and thank you very much for the response!

Too bad about the CAM SW. So frustrating that hardware vendors can't make proper software to control their hardware. I will propably go with an adaptor cable for the GFX card fan header and use afterburner or OC GURU to set a fan profile.

But before this I need to collect enough courage to void the $700 dollar card warranty







(and find out if the 780 Ti OC supports the G10 bracket)


----------



## falcon26

Well my friend got his G10 on his Evga 780 SC. He says he is a bit disappointed after seeing what temps people were getting here. We played BF4 last night for about 2-3 hours and his load temp was about 65C also he got a refurbished H55 for $30 and he says its making a rattling sound like playing. He mentioned returning everything and going with a Arctic Cooliong Twin Turbo 3 for $60. This kinda scares me from doing it myself. Although it seems my 780 always ran about 6-8C cooler than his when using stock cooling.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ph0ton*
> 
> I'll definitely remember to check Vsync. About the windforce cooler, I had a GTX 470 SOC for almost 4 yrs which was a fantastic and whisper quiet card. This card was the reason why i bought the 780 TI OC in expectation of getting the same result. I was surprised that the WF cooler performed so much worse, the 470 was very power hungry = 216W almost as much as the 780 Ti = 238 W. My gut feeling is that the TIM might badly applied by Gigabyte. However speaking to their support was not very helpful.
> I think I'll I go with the 240 mm or 280 mm (whatever will fit in the top of the 350d), the price difference isn't that big compared to the risk of bricking a new cooler on a $700 card during a cooler remount.
> It did - and thank you very much for the response!
> 
> Too bad about the CAM SW. So frustrating that hardware vendors can't make proper software to control their hardware. I will propably go with an adaptor cable for the GFX card fan header and use afterburner or OC GURU to set a fan profile.
> 
> But before this I need to collect enough courage to void the $700 dollar card warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and find out if the 780 Ti OC supports the G10 bracket)


If you want to mount a cooler to the top of your case, you are going to have to buy a NZXT AIO because they have the longest tubing(16 inches) compared to the standard 12 inches that every other manufacturer uses.

Honestly man, get a 120/140mm cooler and mount it as rear exhaust. The performance will be only 5-8C different and it will still be plenty quiet. You could always buy some silence optimized fans. The other argument is, if you're spending money on those fancy fans, it would be better spent towards a bigger AIO. I see it both ways.

I also used an adapter so I could plug the 92mm fan into the graphics card in order to save a fan header on my motherboard. Here is a link to the adapter I bought. Just go into Afterburner and set it to a constant 80% or whatever you want to set it to. Fan Curve wont work because it measures temperature from the core, and the fan is for the VRMs which are not measured. I bought a Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm PWM fan for $10 that I find to be very quiet up to 80% and an incredible 2500rpm at 80%. If silence is your thing, maybe opt for a Noctua 92mm Fan. They are pricey though-like $20 pricey.

The thing about CAM and the X31 that pissed me off the most was that it was advertised as the first variable speed pump. This is the reason why I opted for the X31 instead of the less expensive H55. To my displeasure, it is not a controllable pump like the advertising would have you believe. I figure that you would be able to go into CAM and change the Pump speed because you also have to plug it into an internal USB Header. The only way to change the speed of the pump is by connecting it directly to the motherboard and using Fan Xpert or some other fan tuning software. Very misleading...

Disassembling your card for the first time is a real gut check, especially if you are risk-adverse like me. Take off the stock cooler first and see what the TIM installed by Gigabyte looks like. I know on my EVGA 780 they applied WAY, I mean WAY WAY WAY too much thermal paste, it was leaking out all over and caked on everywhere. My temperatures were pretty darn good though even before doing the G10. It is also a good idea to do this before installing the G10 just to familiarize yourself with the card. Be sure to wash your hands, and work in as clean an environment as possible. Hopefully you have some extra TIM laying around, if not, I recommend Gelid GC-Extreme.

I did some research on your specific card. Your card does not have a built in baseplate for passive VRM and VRAM Cooling. This next step is not required, but I would strongly advise that you do make these additional modifications as a precaution.



This is your card without the stock heatsink. In the middle covered in way too much TIM you can see the GPU Die, referred to as the core. This is where the AIO will attach to. The red squares are the Video RAM(VRAM) The Yellow squares are the Voltage Regulation Modules(VRMs). The VRAM is not as important as the VRMs. You will want to buy Aluminum Heatsinks and Double Sided Thermal Tape . This is not necessary for the VRAM because the VRAM doesn't get very hot, but if you want to, you can buy Copper Heatsinks for the VRAM. I would say it is necessary for the VRMs though.

You will want to remove the tape that comes with the heat sinks. This is a painfully tedious process that requires patience and isopropyl alcohol to really clean the bottoms of the heat sinks. It is also a good idea to give the areas on the card where you will be applying the heatsinks a quick clean and dry with the isopropyl alcohol. A clean surface leads to better heat transfer, and more adhesion. These cards will be upside down once installed in the computer, so making sure they have good adhesion is important, another reason why you buy the thermal tape I linked and not use the stuff that comes pre-applied to the back of the heat sinks. The people who use the pre-applied tape with their heat sinks have reported that their heat sinks fall off.
Once you have cleaned the bottoms of the heat sinks, and the VRAM and VRM modules of the card, you will cut down the thermal tape to the size of each heat sink. You will have to do this for every heat sink. This is a long process. Make sure it is big enough to cover the entire bottom of the heat sink, you want to cover as much surface area as possible. Once cut down you remove one side of the thermal tape revealing one of the sticky sides, apply this to the heat sink, then attach the heat sink onto the VRM module. Repeat this process until they are completely covered. Apply a little bit of pressure to each one and then let sit for an hour so it has time to cure and develop a strong adhesive bond. Remember this is going upside down, and temperatures are going to be high.

After all of your heat sinks have been applied, now you can install the AIO as your normally would. Get the 92mm Fan facing the correct way because once the AIO is attached, there is no changing it unless you take the whole thing apart. I mistake I have made. Mounting the cooler can be difficult, if possible, get the help of a 2nd person to make it easier on yourself. With the cooler in place, tighten down in a diamond pattern, be careful not to over-tighten as you could crack the GPU Die in a worst case scenario. You want goo pressure, but not too much pressure.

Finally, its time to install the card into the PCI Lane and screw the cooler onto your case. You will want to set the cooler to exhaust because the air coming out of this thing will be hot, much more hot than your CPU's AIO gets. The TDP of these cards is more than twice that of an Intel processor.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Well my friend got his G10 on his Evga 780 SC. He says he is a bit disappointed after seeing what temps people were getting here. We played BF4 last night for about 2-3 hours and his load temp was about 65C also he got a refurbished H55 for $30 and he says its making a rattling sound like playing. He mentioned returning everything and going with a Arctic Cooliong Twin Turbo 3 for $60. This kinda scares me from doing it myself. Although it seems my 780 always ran about 6-8C cooler than his when using stock cooling.


The refurbished H55 could be his problem. Also, a rattling pump noise is not good, and means something is wrong with the pump, either too much voltage or too little is being applied. He needs to connect the pump to a fan header and run some kind of tuning software to detect the controllable range of the pump.

If his 780 was already running hot to begin with, it could just be an unlucky chip. Or it could mean his case doesn't have sufficient airflow. Try removing the side panel. The ACX Cooler is kind of a weird design. It blows air down and around the card instead of out the rear like most cards. Because of this down and around exhaust, when your side panel is closed that hot air builds up and stagnates within the case leading to higher overall temperatures.

When I first got my 780 SC, was doing some benchmarks with Unigine Heaven with the side panel off to check for any irregularities. While running Unigine Heaven with the side panel off, my temperatures were maxing out at 64C. I thought fantastic, put my side panel on, and put it inside my wooden desk. I ran Heaven again and my temperatures shot up to 76C all because the side panel was closed and the air had nowhere to go except into the case causing a hot box of sorts. I ended up just leaving my side panel off because the low temperatures were so appealing.

When I was doing my research on the card, I noticed that there was a large fluctuation in the reviewer's temperatures, all depending on the type of test scenario the reviewer used. Reviewers that used an open test bench of course got lower temperatures in the 60s. Reviewers that used cases were getting temperatures in the mid to high 70s.

Still, his temperatures should be lower than what they are. Maybe his cooler is not making proper contact. Did he leave his base-plate on when he did the G10 mod? Did he use a Copper Shim to put on the GPU Die/Core? If he left the base plate on and did not use a copper shim, that is why his temperatures are higher than expected. He needs to buy a Copper Shim 20mm x 20mm x .8mm and apply thermal paste to both sides.


----------



## ph0ton

Thanks for the reply, PinkoTheCommi. Your last post pretty much sums up what I've learned about the G10 so far, thx for that









While tinkering with my card tonight i have noticed that one of the PCIe cable won't latch properly. I've had 1 or 2 crashes since I bought the card about 4 months ago, all which came after moving the case around. I didn't find the problem back then, but now it makes sense. I need to RMA the card now







.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ph0ton*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, PinkoTheCommi. Your last post pretty much sums up what I've learned about the G10 so far, thx for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While tinkering with my card tonight i have noticed that one of the PCIe cable won't latch properly. I've had 1 or 2 crashes since I bought the card about 4 months ago, all which came after moving the case around. I didn't find the problem back then, but now it makes sense. I need to RMA the card now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Wait, you mean the PCIe cable from the power supply to the GPU?


You can't find some way to have it connect properly? With tape or something even? It doesn't make a click when it is fully plugged in? Are you sure it is a problem with the GPU's connector and not the cable it self? That would be a really, really miniscule and crappy reason to have to RMA. Surely there is a home fix you can do for this.


----------



## octiny

Count me in! Love these things, no more worrying about the horrendous summer temps in Cali


----------



## ldewitt

Kicked some fans out of my case and rearranged them around moved my h55 to top of my case as exhaust seeing if I can get better temps..


----------



## Tesshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> If you want to mount a cooler to the top of your case, you are going to have to buy a NZXT AIO because they have the longest tubing(16 inches) compared to the standard 12 inches that every other manufacturer uses.
> 
> Honestly man, get a 120/140mm cooler and mount it as rear exhaust. The performance will be only 5-8C different and it will still be plenty quiet. You could always buy some silence optimized fans. The other argument is, if you're spending money on those fancy fans, it would be better spent towards a bigger AIO. I see it both ways.
> 
> I also used an adapter so I could plug the 92mm fan into the graphics card in order to save a fan header on my motherboard. Here is a link to the adapter I bought. Just go into Afterburner and set it to a constant 80% or whatever you want to set it to. Fan Curve wont work because it measures temperature from the core, and the fan is for the VRMs which are not measured. I bought a Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm PWM fan for $10 that I find to be very quiet up to 80% and an incredible 2500rpm at 80%. If silence is your thing, maybe opt for a Noctua 92mm Fan. They are pricey though-like $20 pricey.
> 
> The thing about CAM and the X31 that pissed me off the most was that it was advertised as the first variable speed pump. This is the reason why I opted for the X31 instead of the less expensive H55. To my displeasure, it is not a controllable pump like the advertising would have you believe. I figure that you would be able to go into CAM and change the Pump speed because you also have to plug it into an internal USB Header. The only way to change the speed of the pump is by connecting it directly to the motherboard and using Fan Xpert or some other fan tuning software. Very misleading...
> 
> Disassembling your card for the first time is a real gut check, especially if you are risk-adverse like me. Take off the stock cooler first and see what the TIM installed by Gigabyte looks like. I know on my EVGA 780 they applied WAY, I mean WAY WAY WAY too much thermal paste, it was leaking out all over and caked on everywhere. My temperatures were pretty darn good though even before doing the G10. It is also a good idea to do this before installing the G10 just to familiarize yourself with the card. Be sure to wash your hands, and work in as clean an environment as possible. Hopefully you have some extra TIM laying around, if not, I recommend Gelid GC-Extreme.
> 
> I did some research on your specific card. Your card does not have a built in baseplate for passive VRM and VRAM Cooling. This next step is not required, but I would strongly advise that you do make these additional modifications as a precaution.
> 
> 
> 
> This is your card without the stock heatsink. In the middle covered in way too much TIM you can see the GPU Die, referred to as the core. This is where the AIO will attach to. The red squares are the Video RAM(VRAM) The Yellow squares are the Voltage Regulation Modules(VRMs). The VRAM is not as important as the VRMs. You will want to buy Aluminum Heatsinks and Double Sided Thermal Tape . This is not necessary for the VRAM because the VRAM doesn't get very hot, but if you want to, you can buy Copper Heatsinks for the VRAM. I would say it is necessary for the VRMs though.
> 
> You will want to remove the tape that comes with the heat sinks. This is a painfully tedious process that requires patience and isopropyl alcohol to really clean the bottoms of the heat sinks. It is also a good idea to give the areas on the card where you will be applying the heatsinks a quick clean and dry with the isopropyl alcohol. A clean surface leads to better heat transfer, and more adhesion. These cards will be upside down once installed in the computer, so making sure they have good adhesion is important, another reason why you buy the thermal tape I linked and not use the stuff that comes pre-applied to the back of the heat sinks. The people who use the pre-applied tape with their heat sinks have reported that their heat sinks fall off.
> Once you have cleaned the bottoms of the heat sinks, and the VRAM and VRM modules of the card, you will cut down the thermal tape to the size of each heat sink. You will have to do this for every heat sink. This is a long process. Make sure it is big enough to cover the entire bottom of the heat sink, you want to cover as much surface area as possible. Once cut down you remove one side of the thermal tape revealing one of the sticky sides, apply this to the heat sink, then attach the heat sink onto the VRM module. Repeat this process until they are completely covered. Apply a little bit of pressure to each one and then let sit for an hour so it has time to cure and develop a strong adhesive bond. Remember this is going upside down, and temperatures are going to be high.
> 
> After all of your heat sinks have been applied, now you can install the AIO as your normally would. Get the 92mm Fan facing the correct way because once the AIO is attached, there is no changing it unless you take the whole thing apart. I mistake I have made. Mounting the cooler can be difficult, if possible, get the help of a 2nd person to make it easier on yourself. With the cooler in place, tighten down in a diamond pattern, be careful not to over-tighten as you could crack the GPU Die in a worst case scenario. You want goo pressure, but not too much pressure.
> 
> Finally, its time to install the card into the PCI Lane and screw the cooler onto your case. You will want to set the cooler to exhaust because the air coming out of this thing will be hot, much more hot than your CPU's AIO gets. The TDP of these cards is more than twice that of an Intel processor.


What is the actually correct place to connect the 3pin from the pump, which I assume controls the pump. I connected it to the motherboard. Would it be cooler to connect it to the fan header on the graphic card?


----------



## 031Dutch

i wanna buy the g10.
but i you use gpu z
every day now.

because yesterday on my asus direct cuii stock cooler
if gave insane degrees 

like you see in the picture
its insano vrm temps

for people saying that i overclocked it. and no i didnt overclock it.
i think its a bug in the gpu z or worse in my videocard

so lots off testing now


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> i wanna buy the g10.
> but i you use gpu z
> every day now.
> 
> because yesterday on my asus direct cuii stock cooler
> if gave insane degrees
> 
> like you see in the picture
> its insano vrm temps
> 
> for people saying that i overclocked it. and no i didnt overclock it.
> i think its a bug in the gpu z or worse in my videocard
> 
> so lots off testing now


Thats definitely a buy in GPU or a faulty sensor on your card.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tesshin*
> 
> What is the actually correct place to connect the 3pin from the pump, which I assume controls the pump. I connected it to the motherboard. Would it be cooler to connect it to the fan header on the graphic card?


Keep the 3pin Fan for the pump connected to the motherboard.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> i wanna buy the g10.
> but i you use gpu z
> every day now.
> 
> because yesterday on my asus direct cuii stock cooler
> if gave insane degrees
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like you see in the picture
> its insano vrm temps
> 
> for people saying that i overclocked it. and no i didnt overclock it.
> i think its a bug in the gpu z or worse in my videocard
> 
> so lots off testing now


Those spikes are normal, the card isn't spiking like that, its something CPU-z.
It's common so don't stress, but you will find the VRM's will be closer to 100c depending on the card.

My GTX780ti Matrix's vrm's would hit 100c with stock cooling, now they never go over, 80c (max I've seen with Furmark)


----------



## Basculho

Well guys I'm needing desperate help here.
Managed to buy the NZXT Kraken G10 but something is definitely wrong. I'm using the HD7970 with the H75 water cooler.
During rig building, I faced the problem of the fan not properly fitting into the GPU bracket, but after a little tweaking in the slot, it fit perfectly and the fan worked, but I can't get it to be recognized by the computer itself and the GPU, so when I try to adjust fan speed it simply doesn't work.
Another problem that I think it's correlated with it is that when I try to benchmark or playing videogames the card simply shuts itself down. I don't know why this keeps happening but I think it is probably because the fan ain't even being recognized.

It can't be overheating at all, because the Hype is indeed real, the temp on the card doesn't often get past 45º and for example on FurMark it reaches 40º and then blam! Shutdown.

Somebody help ;(


----------



## falcon26

Take the H75 off and make sure you didn't damage anything on the video card. Cracked cap resistor etc. And also make sure the H75 is totally flush with the GPU core. And make sure you have the pump plugged in to the motherboard and a fan also plugged into the motherboard for the radiator....sometimes its just something very small we forget


----------



## Basculho

Thank you for the reply falcon26. Well, everything seems fine with the GPU since when the problem started happening one of the procedures I took was unplug the GPU and mount the H75 with the Thermic paste, since there was the possibility that the originally applied one wasn't doing it's job anymore. Everything is properly plugged to the motherboard, but this keeps happening. I don't even know where the problem lies, but I'd say it's from the NZXT G10 gpu fan, but I can't say for sure


----------



## falcon26

Can you see if the G10 fan is spinning? Perhaps the paste you used is shorting something out. Did you use a lot of it? With these type of problems unfortunately you have to start from scratch again. Take off the G10 and put your old cooler back on. Then boot. If it works you know your card is fine. Then try installing the G10 again step by step. Boot it and see if it works. If it does great, if not perhaps your H75 is malfunctioning or something. As for the G10 fan, you can use any 92MM fan you want. If you have another try that.....


----------



## Basculho

There is definitely something wrong with the connections, the temperature just raised itself to 70º. I'll try and plug the H75 more precisely into the GPU's core.


----------



## falcon26

It seems to me its not making good contact onto your GPU which is causing it to reboot or shut down...


----------



## Basculho

Well it's got to be that, do you think I should probably order the copper shim that they recommend using with some models?


----------



## falcon26

No....


----------



## shwarz

ok first things first
connect the gpu pump direct to a molex
then u know its getting 100percent 12v
do the same for the VRM fan just to be sure

then as suggested once the waterblock is mounted to the card
check the mount to make sure its mounted correctly
you should be able to check from the side.

then when the pc is on run gpu-z
and check not only gpu temps but vrm temps as well

and do not run furmark unless u want a placemat for a card
run somethink like unigine valley

and monitor gpu and vrm temps


----------



## markob53

Hi guys,

Thinking of purchasing the G10 today as my gpu is turning my case into an oven (H440) i'm also planning on buying 3 replacement Corsair SP120 quiet edition intake fans for the front and i have some questions.

1. I'm torn between the H55 or the X41, if i went with the H55 i could either put it as a rear exhaust but then i'd need to buy a 4th 120mm LED fan as it doesn't fit my current 140mm LED fan, i could put it at the front and just have it use one of the 3 120mms i'll be buying and keep the 140mm led where it is or i could just buy the X41 which has a 140mm rad and then i can keep the 140mm where it is and just have my 3 new 120mm in the front, any ideas? I'm worried the H55 rad may not stretch to the front of the case and the X41 is more expensive.

2. Does anyone know how many heatsinks i would need for my GPU? I have an MSI Twin Frozr 780 Ti

3. A quiet computer is key for me and i'm wondering with all these temps being posted are they using high fan speeds? I would ideally like to keep my fan speed at a very low setting, ideally lower than 50%, currently i get a high of abut 83c at that speed.

Appreciate any thoughts


----------



## schoolofmonkey

You know what's funny, it could be just me.
But now that you have you temps low, do you you stress over them not being low enough..lol..
I usually sit around 43c while gaming (45c furmark), it was a warmer day today and I hit 46c and then I started fiddling with fan profiles.

46c on a GTX780ti card and I'm stressing its "too high", that's 34c lower than the stock cooler produces and I'm stressing about that..









I've lowered my fan profile a bit tonight because realistically even if I hit 50c that's still nothing for a GTX780ti.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 2. Does anyone know how many heatsinks i would need for my GPU? I have an MSI Twin Frozr 780 Ti


None by the looks of it, it has a VRAM heatsink attached, makes cooling so much easier:
http://www.vortez.net/articles_file/25272_msi_gtx_780_gaming_brace.jpg

My fan speeds don't go over 50% and the highest I hit was today at 46c, but I have a Kraken X60 280mm AIO, so it cools a little better.
If I were you I'd go the x41, you have longer pipes and easier mounting.
Don't like the Cam software, but I'm lucky (or unlucky) enough to be able to use Kraken Control, where you set and forget. The pump remembers the fan profile without needing the software running all the time.

A quiet computer is a must for me too as the tower is on my desk near my head, but if you buy a smaller RAD you need higher fan speeds to keep it really cool.
Heat transfer on a GPU is much higher than a CPU, so the RAD's get REALLY hot..


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> You know what's funny, it could be just me.
> But now that you have you temps low, do you you stress over them not being low enough..lol..
> I usually sit around 43c while gaming (45c furmark), it was a warmer day today and I hit 46c and then I started fiddling with fan profiles.
> 
> 46c on a GTX780ti card and I'm stressing its "too high", that's 34c lower than the stock cooler produces and I'm stressing about that..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've lowered my fan profile a bit tonight because realistically even if I hit 50c that's still nothing for a GTX780ti.
> None by the looks of it, it has a VRAM heatsink attached, makes cooling so much easier:
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_file/25272_msi_gtx_780_gaming_brace.jpg
> 
> My fan speeds don't go over 50% and the highest I hit was today at 46c, but I have a Kraken X60 280mm AIO, so it cools a little better.
> If I were you I'd go the x41, you have longer pipes and easier mounting.
> Don't like the Cam software, but I'm lucky (or unlucky) enough to be able to use Kraken Control, where you set and forget. The pump remembers the fan profile without needing the software running all the time.
> 
> A quiet computer is a must for me too as the tower is on my desk near my head, but if you buy a smaller RAD you need higher fan speeds to keep it really cool.
> Heat transfer on a GPU is much higher than a CPU, so the RAD's get REALLY hot..


I actually saw a similar image and wondered if the heatsinks came pre-installed, great stuff









Just a quick question, if i put the H55 or the X41 at the front of my case, can i have the fan mounted to the front and the rad at the back rather than the rad at the front as an intake? I saw a post saying there shouldn't be an intake fan blowing into the exhaust.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I actually saw a similar image and wondered if the heatsinks came pre-installed, great stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a quick question, if i put the H55 or the X41 at the front of my case, can i have the fan mounted to the front and the rad at the back rather than the rad at the front as an intake? I saw a post saying there shouldn't be an intake fan blowing into the exhaust.


what they mean is that any air that gets pushed OR pulled through the rad is coming out HOT. you don't want that hot air staying in your case, so you should ideally have your AIO rad mounted somewhere with fans pushing or pulling the air through it on its way out.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> what they mean is that any air that gets pushed OR pulled through the rad is coming out HOT. you don't want that hot air staying in your case, so you should ideally have your AIO rad mounted somewhere with fans pushing or pulling the air through it on its way out.


So if i have the rad mounted at the front i have to make that an exhaust? As having it as an intake will just blow hot air into my case? Just i didn't want to have an exhaust at the front because i already have 3 in the roof and at the rear and you're supposed to intake air from the front are you not? Just i have seen other people mounting there gpu rad at the front with a fan in front of it so i assumed they were in taking air.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> So if i have the rad mounted at the front i have to make that an exhaust? As having it as an intake will just blow hot air into my case? Just i didn't want to have an exhaust at the front because i already have 3 in the roof and at the rear and you're supposed to intake air from the front are you not? Just i have seen other people mounting there gpu rad at the front with a fan in front of it so i assumed they were in taking air.


You definitely need the air circuit more balanced than that. You may have to change some other fans around. But definitely exhaust the GPU radiator. First time you get it up to temp playing or benching you will understand.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> So if i have the rad mounted at the front i have to make that an exhaust? As having it as an intake will just blow hot air into my case? Just i didn't want to have an exhaust at the front because i already have 3 in the roof and at the rear and you're supposed to intake air from the front are you not? Just i have seen other people mounting there gpu rad at the front with a fan in front of it so i assumed they were in taking air.


Well i mean i had my rad(not in the front but on the bottom) as intake i don't think i had any problems other than not being able to OC my GPU that much, i ended up thinking i'm just throwing hot air into my case and soon after moved that to the top as exhaust. I have 2 sp120 on the bottom for intake, 2 sp120 front intake and 2 closed loop coolers as exhaust one on the back and one on top. Thinking about throwing my cpu closed loop cooler up top aswell and putting a AF140 on the back.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Well i mean i had my rad(not in the front but on the bottom) as intake i don't think i had any problems other than not being able to OC my GPU that much, i ended up thinking i'm just throwing hot air into my case and soon after moved that to the top as exhaust. I have 2 sp120 on the bottom for intake, 2 sp120 front intake and 2 closed loop coolers as exhaust one on the back and one on top. Thinking about throwing my cpu closed loop cooler up top aswell and putting a AF140 on the back.


I currently have a 140mm rear exhaust and 2 x 120mm roofs exhausts connected to my H100i, with 3 x 120mm front intakes.

I did think about putting the gpu rad at the rear but i have a 140mm red led fan there so if i got a 120mm rad (now thinking of the H75, cheap and available) i'd need a new 120mm led fan and my older 140mm would go to waste, which is why i was hoping i could stick it in the front.

I could put the gpu exhaust in the roof next to my H100i but that would mean a) 4 exhausts and 3 intakes (problem?) and 2) i doubt the H75 would reach the roof in my NZXT H440 from the top PCI-E slot.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> So if i have the rad mounted at the front i have to make that an exhaust? As having it as an intake will just blow hot air into my case? Just i didn't want to have an exhaust at the front because i already have 3 in the roof and at the rear and you're supposed to intake air from the front are you not? Just i have seen other people mounting there gpu rad at the front with a fan in front of it so i assumed they were in taking air.


You definitely need the air circuit more balanced than that. You may have to change some other fans around. But definitely exhaust the GPU radiator. First time you get it up to temp playing or benching you will understand.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I currently have a 140mm rear exhaust and 2 x 120mm roofs exhausts connected to my H100i, with 3 x 120mm front intakes.
> 
> I did think about putting the gpu rad at the rear but i have a 140mm red led fan there so if i got a 120mm rad (now thinking of the H75, cheap and available) i'd need a new 120mm led fan and my older 140mm would go to waste, which is why i was hoping i could stick it in the front.
> 
> I could put the gpu exhaust in the roof next to my H100i but that would mean a) 4 exhausts and 3 intakes (problem?) and 2) i doubt the H75 would reach the roof in my NZXT H440 from the top PCI-E slot.


What micron filter material are you using on the intakes?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I currently have a 140mm rear exhaust and 2 x 120mm roofs exhausts connected to my H100i, with 3 x 120mm front intakes.
> 
> I did think about putting the gpu rad at the rear but i have a 140mm red led fan there so if i got a 120mm rad (now thinking of the H75, cheap and available) i'd need a new 120mm led fan and my older 140mm would go to waste, which is why i was hoping i could stick it in the front.
> 
> I could put the gpu exhaust in the roof next to my H100i but that would mean a) 4 exhausts and 3 intakes (problem?) and 2) i doubt the H75 would reach the roof in my NZXT H440 from the top PCI-E slot.


to be honest your going to have fans that go to waste. Like the majority of the people here i have 8 120mm, 1 140mm, and 1 200mm that i have laying around since upgrading....so yeah your always going to have one thing or another that goes to waste.

AS for: "I could put the gpu exhaust in the roof next to my H100i but that would mean a) 4 exhausts and 3 intakes (problem?) and 2) i doubt the H75 would reach the roof in my NZXT H440 from the top PCI-E slot."

Go for it theres no problem with having 4 exhaust and 3 intakes since your exhaust will be helping your intakes pull air through your case anyways.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You definitely need the air circuit more balanced than that. You may have to change some other fans around. But definitely exhaust the GPU radiator. First time you get it up to temp playing or benching you will understand.
> What micron filter material are you using on the intakes?


I don't understand..3 intakes and 3 exhausts is pretty balanced? They come with 3 default intakes and a rear exhaust with a recommendation that the H100i is setup as an exhaust, i don't think anything about my setup is wrong? If i have then any suggestion on how to change it would be appreciated.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idewitt*
> to be honest your going to have fans that go to waste. Like the majority of the people here i have 8 120mm, 1 140mm, and 1 200mm that i have laying around since upgrading....so yeah your always going to have one thing or another that goes to waste.
> 
> AS for: "I could put the gpu exhaust in the roof next to my H100i but that would mean a) 4 exhausts and 3 intakes (problem?) and 2) i doubt the H75 would reach the roof in my NZXT H440 from the top PCI-E slot."
> 
> Go for it theres no problem with having 4 exhaust and 3 intakes since your exhaust will be helping your intakes pull air through your case anyways


I may try it in the roof then, but the length of the tubing may be an issue. If i can't do that then i guess i'll have to sacrifice my 140mm fan and stick it in the rear (so to speak)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I don't understand..3 intakes and 3 exhausts is pretty balanced? They come with 3 default intakes and a rear exhaust with a recommendation that the H100i is setup as an exhaust, i don't think anything about my setup is wrong? If i have then any suggestion on how to change it would be appreciated.
> I may try it in the roof then, but the length of the tubing may be an issue. If i can't do that then i guess i'll have to sacrifice my 140mm fan and stick it in the rear (so to speak)


Oh im not the pro on air cooling. There are some good right ups on the site you can search for. But,balanced is not necessarily the right word as each setup will have different needs. I try to keep a positive pressure and typically have more intakes than exhaust. But things such as air flow through the filter media and radiator must be considered to. The primary thing I am trying to communicate is that you want to exhaust the gpu heat. Thats the only point im really trying to make right now.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Oh im not the pro on air cooling. There are some good right ups on the site you can search for. But,balanced is not necessarily the right word as each setup will have different needs. I try to keep a positive pressure and typically have more intakes than exhaust. But things such as air flow through the filter media and radiator must be considered to. The primary thing I am trying to communicate is that you want to exhaust the gpu heat. Thats the only point im really trying to make right now.


Well the reason i want to go down the G10 route as well as upgrade my intakes is with my current setup my gpu is heating my case up like an oven and i can smell the heat exhausting out, so even though i know my setup isn't wrong 'per say' i know something is wrong somewhere in my system. I do have all my fans running at a low rpm and only 2 intakes atm (as 1 is broke) so maybe that's it but i'm trying to achieve silence, so i'm hoping that better cooling on the gpu and static pressure intakes will all help with my problem and will allow me to keep my fans running at a low speed but improve my heat issue.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Well the reason i want to go down the G10 route as well as upgrade my intakes is with my current setup my gpu is heating my case up like an oven and i can smell the heat exhausting out, so even though i know my setup isn't wrong 'per say' i know something is wrong somewhere in my system. I do have all my fans running at a low rpm and only 2 intakes atm (as 1 is broke) so maybe that's it but i'm trying to achieve silence, so i'm hoping that better cooling on the gpu and static pressure intakes will all help with my problem and will allow me to keep my fans running at a low speed but improve my heat issue.


It will definitely be a giant step in the right direction. By exhausting the fans on the gpu radiator you are dumping the vast majority of the heat straight out of the case. You can ultimately run the fan rpm where you want to in terms of how quiet it is. I went to a lower rpm on my gpu radiator fans to silence them. My temps went up from ~50C while gaming to 53-54C while gaming which is still quite acceptable.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> It will definitely be a giant step in the right direction. By exhausting the fans on the gpu radiator you are dumping the vast majority of the heat straight out of the case. You can ultimately run the fan rpm where you want to in terms of how quiet it is. I went to a lower rpm on my gpu radiator fans to silence them. My temps went up from ~50C while gaming to 53-54C while gaming which is still quite acceptable.


I'm getting 83c max whilst gaming so i know i need to cool my gpu down more, problem is if i turn the fan up it gets loud so if the G10 can help me achieve similar results to you at a low fan speed then i'm confident it will solve my issue, would you say the stock fan on the G10 is fine or would you recommend replacing it?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I'm getting 83c max whilst gaming so i know i need to cool my gpu down more, problem is if i turn the fan up it gets loud so if the G10 can help me achieve similar results to you at a low fan speed then i'm confident it will solve my issue, would you say the stock fan on the G10 is fine or would you recommend replacing it?


I was hitting 80C under heavy use before going to the G-10. as mentioned above, now im in low 50s C under heavy use. So far the fan that comes with the G-10 has been perfectly adequate. I can not hear it either and I run it at 100%.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I'm getting 83c max whilst gaming so i know i need to cool my gpu down more, problem is if i turn the fan up it gets loud so if the G10 can help me achieve similar results to you at a low fan speed then i'm confident it will solve my issue, would you say the stock fan on the G10 is fine or would you recommend replacing it?


Even the G10's fan at 100% i can't hear it over my sp120s....So it will definitely be quieter than the stock cooler.


----------



## maynard14

hmm weird i have put a nzxt kraken x60 on 290 unlock to 290x reference card, playing tombraider on stock clocks and stock memory clock, 60c is my temps







ambient is about 29c and my rad is place at the front of the corsair 540 case, fans are for exhaust, and top rad for intake also back fan as intake


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Here's a tip if the rubber on the nuts start to wear out use those little red washers that used to come with motherboard mounting screws.
They work a lot better then the rubber to give you an even mount, and they don't fall apart.
Oh and it also gives you a little more space when trying to mount over a backplate, as the washers are thinner.

Because of my constant unmounting and remounting on different cards mine wore out.









Now its back on the Matrix and going well.
As for the exhaust/intake debate, it really depends on the card and case

If you go back through my posts I was torn about what to do, well in the end I am in-taking through the bottom of the Primo, I have the luxury to do that as I can exhaust from the bottom rear of the case, next to the RAD, so most of the hot air is blown out right after leaving the RAD (I have a fan blowing across it too)
Temps are exactly the same other than the VRM's, which are 2c hotter, but they never pass 76c (well in Furmark they did, hit 81c, but that's quite normal, still lower than the 97c-100c on the stock cooler).
VRAM temps are 61c, which is normal, there is no heatsink on them.

That being said if I could mount my RAD up the top I would, but that also produces higher GPU temps because of the internal case temps.
Motherboards, CPU, hard drives all produce heat.

No matter how many times you install this thing its scarey, one tip finger tighten first, test the mount if not sitting right your idle temps will be up a little, but not enough to hurt the card, when you stress test use something not too demanding like Heaven in Windowed mode.

I've been able to tighten the screws while card was on so you actually see the temps going down, I don't recommend it, but its a sure fire way of not over tightening the mounting screws.

I'm in the processes of looking at ways to get a bigger fan blowing on the VRM's as the Matrix is as wide as a Classified, so its not blowing on about 1cm of VRM heatsink, hence the 76c temp.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> If you go back through my posts I was torn about what to do, well in the end I am in-taking through the bottom of the Primo, I have the luxury to do that as I can exhaust from the bottom rear of the case, next to the RAD, so most of the hot air is blown out right after leaving the RAD (I have a fan blowing across it too)
> T


Without a doubt each situation will be a little different. But with the amount of heat generated off these gpus and their radiators, there is no question the "ideal" situation would be to exhaust it from the case. But you are right, that will not always be possible.


----------



## mrzoo

I just purchased the g10 gonna use it with the h55 on a msi gtx 760 gaming 2gb but I have an issue with my case I can't mount any rads on top I have my cpu water cooled with cm seidon 120 and couldn't put that on top had to use rear exhaust. My ram and mobo mosfet heat sink don't let me mount a rad with a fan on top my case is a nzxt source 210. Any recommendations I'd hate to have to get a new case but I don't think I have a choice.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I just purchased the g10 gonna use it with the h55 on a msi gtx 760 gaming 2gb but I have an issue with my case I can't mount any rads on top I have my cpu water cooled with cm seidon 120 and couldn't put that on top had to use rear exhaust. My ram and mobo mosfet heat sink don't let me mount a rad with a fan on top my case is a nzxt source 210. Any recommendations I'd hate to have to get a new case but I don't think I have a choice.


Have you tryed mounting the fan on the outside? quite ugly but it might help in your situation?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I just purchased the g10 gonna use it with the h55 on a msi gtx 760 gaming 2gb but I have an issue with my case I can't mount any rads on top I have my cpu water cooled with cm seidon 120 and couldn't put that on top had to use rear exhaust. My ram and mobo mosfet heat sink don't let me mount a rad with a fan on top my case is a nzxt source 210. Any recommendations I'd hate to have to get a new case but I don't think I have a choice.


A couple things. It may be possible to mount it on the removable side panel if you have the clearance there. Also, on top of the case, you could put the radiator on the inside of the top of the case and the fan on the outside. This is actually how I have the the H-110 mounted on my Corsair 400 R. It can be done in such a manner as to look professional. I had the same problem with clearance on heatsinks.


----------



## mrzoo

I could do that it'll just leave me without the push pull option I guess thanks. Cant wait to receive my heat sinks for vrm although I might not need them if my gpu has a midplate. Got my self some 3 pin to 4 pin molex adapters also to run fun on max


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I could do that it'll just leave me without the push pull option I guess thanks. Cant wait to receive my heat sinks for vrm although I might not need them if my gpu has a midplate. Got my self some 3 pin to 4 pin molex adapters also to run fun on max


Just be sure get a grill for the fan if you have a cat.







It'll light their butt up the first time they jump up there if you dont.


----------



## mrzoo

Can the 3 pin power fan be used for rad fan and can it be controlled via mobo. Mobo I Have Is Gigabyte 990fxa - ud3 rev4.0


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Can the 3 pin power fan be used for rad fan and can it be controlled via mobo. Mobo I Have Is Gigabyte 990fxa - ud3 rev4.0


3 pin can be used of course but No the 3 pin will not be controlled by the mainboard. It will run at 100%. You can get a fan controller to do this however. Everything from a dual 5.25" bay controller to an external single channel is available for pretty much any budget.

Edit: Something as simple as this would be effective. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5472148&CatId=501

This is actually completely external with its own power supply. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5472147&csid=_61&rrpl=item_page.content1&rrstr=ClickCP&rrindex=1

I run a couple of these because im a control freak http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=685728&csid=_61&rrpl=item_page.content3&rrstr=ViewedPurchased&rrindex=1

You get the idea.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Just be sure get a grill for the fan if you have a cat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll light their butt up the first time they jump up there if you dont.


BAHAHAH


----------



## mrzoo

Just thought about it if I put fan on outside how would I connect it to give power? Also 3 pin headers just run 10o% when connected to mobo?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Just thought about it if I put fan on outside how would I connect it to give power? Also 3 pin headers just run 10o% when connected to mobo?


Correct, they will run 100% connected to the 4 pin header on the mainboard. As for wiring the fan on the outside. You can drill a hole for the fan wire to go through, you can use something like the external controller on the post i made above which has its own external power supply, there are rubber grommets on the back over the input panel that you can run a fan cable out and upto the top of the case. There are several ways to do this. You can make it look as nice or as ghetto as you want really. Finish it off with a grill (something like this maybe http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5554580&CatId=500 ) and you can get some black or whatever color ABS plastic molding from the home improvement store to wrap the fan sides and make it look very nice. Like I said, just depends on how far YOU want to take it.


----------



## mrzoo

So connecting to 3 pin header on mobo won't run 100%... how about if I use speedfan how can this program benefit me


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> So connecting to 3 pin header on mobo won't run 100%...


Plugging a 3 pin fan into a 4 pin header WILL make the fan run at 100%. The 4 pin fans can be controlled via software, not 3 pin.

Also, not to confuse you more, but if you wish to run the 3 pin fan off the mainboard and want to slow it down for noise sake, you can actually get cable extensions that have resistors in them to reduce the power to the fan and make them run slower as well. Obviously not the easiest way to tune your system, but its an option.


----------



## mrzoo

I rather they run 100% noise ain't to much of an issue just want them to run as cool as possible I'll try and remount fans on outside to put rads on top sucks I won't be able to do push pull or even push because of lack of space. I hear that in pull cooling isn't as efficient as push and also there's more noise is this tru


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I rather they run 100% noise ain't to much of an issue just want them to run as cool as possible I'll try and remount fans on outside to put rads on top sucks I won't be able to do push pull or even push because of lack of space. I hear that in pull cooling isn't as efficient as push and also there's more noise is this tru


I pull on both of my H-90s/GPUs. I can not hear the fans. I do have them on a controller though and not running 100%. There is actually a point of diminishing returns which varies from setup to setup of course. Running at 100% made no difference compared to say 85% on my GPUs in everyday/gaming use. Maybe 1C when benchmarking. This is where tuning them comes in handy. But the short answer is that "I" have no issue keeping my gpus at ~53C when gaming pulling on the radiators and the fans are not even at 100%.


----------



## Nagamayasi

Kraken G10 not compatible with *ASUS GTX 780Ti DCII OC* ?
please help.I plan to buy a G10 for ASUS GTX 780 Ti DCII my OC.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagamayasi*
> 
> Kraken G10 not compatible with *ASUS GTX 780Ti DCII OC* ?
> please help.I plan to buy a G10 for ASUS GTX 780 Ti DCII my OC.


If you would have looked at the list you would of seen this member has successfully installed it on that card...

8/22/2014 19:03:45 sweenytodd Corsair H55 Asus GTX 780 Ti DirectCU II although not the OC model(maybe it is) should be the same..


----------



## Nagamayasi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> If you would have looked at the list you would of seen this member has successfully installed it on that card...
> 
> 8/22/2014 19:03:45 sweenytodd Corsair H55 Asus GTX 780 Ti DirectCU II although not the OC model(maybe it is) should be the same..


yes I saw it.
but why is combined with the *H55*?
*I planned to just buy the kraken g10 alone.*


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagamayasi*
> 
> yes I saw it.
> but why is combined with the *H55*?
> *I planned to just buy the kraken g10 alone.*


Yeah it will work with any ASUSTEK closed loop cooler, provided you have one? Most people go with H55 like myself because it can be found from $30-50 and does a good job, so all it all one will dump roughly $60-80 into mounting one of these Kraken G10's which in liquid cooling isn't very much considering radiators for custom loops start at $100....


----------



## samjitsu

Anyone who has this on his/her GIGABYTE R9 290 WINDFORCE OC? Planning to get this bracket.


----------



## Nagamayasi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Yeah it will work with any ASUSTEK closed loop cooler, provided you have one? Most people go with H55 like myself because it can be found from $30-50 and does a good job, so all it all one will dump roughly $60-80 into mounting one of these Kraken G10's which in liquid cooling isn't very much considering radiators for custom loops start at $100....


oh just that reason alone.
means if the pcb asus DCII GTX 780 Ti OC equal to that of sweenytodd, the kraken G10 can be fitted in my vga.
so sweeneytodd, just bought his g10 bracket without the radiator kraken g10?right?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagamayasi*
> 
> oh just that reason alone.
> means if the pcb asus DCII GTX 780 Ti OC equal to that of sweenytodd, the kraken G10 can be fitted in my vga.
> so sweeneytodd, just bought his g10 bracket without the radiator kraken g10?right?


I think you might be confused/

NZXT Kraken series comes in different products

the NZXT Kraken G10 is the bracket only, and without a closed loop cooler it is useless.

NZXT Kraken x31, x40, x41, x60, x61 are all closed loop coolers excellent ones at that but come at a price. There are cheaper ones like the corsair series H55 and up.

So with all that said:

You will need:
1x Kraken G10 BRACKET
1x Closed loop liquid cooler of your choice as long as its a ASUSTEK model, meaning its the round style with the teeth on the outside.


----------



## Nagamayasi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I think you might be confused/
> 
> NZXT Kraken series comes in different products
> 
> the NZXT Kraken G10 is the bracket only, and without a closed loop cooler it is useless.
> 
> NZXT Kraken x31, x40, x41, x60, x61 are all closed loop coolers excellent ones at that but come at a price. There are cheaper ones like the corsair series H55 and up.
> 
> So with all that said:
> 
> You will need:
> 1x Kraken G10 BRACKET
> 1x Closed loop liquid cooler of your choice as long as its a ASUSTEK model, meaning its the round style with the teeth on the outside.


oh ... now I understand,
I think the kraken g10 includes radiator.
it turns out I have to buy a radiator.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagamayasi*
> 
> oh ... now I understand,
> I think the kraken g10 includes radiator.
> it turns out I have to buy a radiator.


That's correct!









So i recommend Corsair H55 does the job and usually can be found for under $50. Unless your a baller and have money to blow go bigger, but most of us aren't


----------



## sweenytodd

I guarantee you guys the G10 bracket will work on the Asus GTX 780 Ti DirectCU II OC (GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5). You just have to replace the foam with something else (I used paper lol) in the NZXT backplate so that the GPU screws can reach the nuts. GPU screws are kinda short because of the card's backplate. You can request for longer GPU screws at NZXT support.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> I guarantee you guys the G10 bracket will work on the Asus GTX 780 Ti DirectCU II OC (GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5). You just have to replace the foam with something else (I used paper lol) in the NZXT backplate so that the GPU screws can reach the nuts. GPU screws are kinda short because of the card's backplate. You can request for longer GPU screws at NZXT support.


Yeah i had no doughts it would work since the only diff was his is "OC'd" same card different clock rate.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Without a doubt each situation will be a little different. But with the amount of heat generated off these gpus and their radiators, there is no question the "ideal" situation would be to exhaust it from the case. But you are right, that will not always be possible.


Just thought I'd show you the differences in temps with each configuration I did.
I did this last night, there isn't really that much difference, only in the VRM temps.
This was a 25 minute run of Heaven Maxed out.

Exhausting out the bottom with rear bottom fan intaking:
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/tempsexhaust_zpsef63b5be.jpeg.html

Bottom intaking, rear bottom fan intaking:
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/tempsintake_zps504c9b70.jpeg.html

Bottom intaking, rear bottom exhausting:
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/tempintakerear_zps0d05ffcf.jpeg.html


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Just thought I'd show you the differences in temps with each configuration I did.
> I did this last night, there isn't really that much difference, only in the VRM temps.
> This was a 25 minute run of Heaven Maxed out.
> 
> Exhausting out the bottom with rear bottom fan intaking:
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/tempsexhaust_zpsef63b5be.jpeg.html
> 
> Bottom intaking, rear bottom fan intaking:
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/tempsintake_zps504c9b70.jpeg.html
> 
> Bottom intaking, rear bottom exhausting:
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/tempintakerear_zps0d05ffcf.jpeg.html


Your case is somewhat different IMO though, you have a lot of room in the bottom of your case. A lot of people if they pull into the case it would add a LOT of extra heat that has to be dealt with. There is no obvious hard or fast rule of course. People will just have to see what works best for their setup. Just seems common sense to send the heat out to me. On my system it would definitely make a big difference.With two gpus , I can heat the air up in the hallway by a degree and activate the AC within 10 minutes of starting to game. No way I want that going in my case.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Your case is somewhat different IMO though, you have a lot of room in the bottom of your case. A lot of people if they pull into the case it would add a LOT of extra heat that has to be dealt with. There is no obvious hard or fast rule of course. People will just have to see what works best for their setup. Just seems common sense to send the heat out to me. On my system it would definitely make a big difference.With two gpus , I can heat the air up in the hallway by a degree and activate the AC within 10 minutes of starting to game. No way I want that going in my case.


I 100% agree, that's why I said it depends on your card and case.








Just thought you'd find it interesting that the temps aren't really that much different in the Primo, with summer coming here and my machine being under the air con temps will go down using intake.

Honestly I wouldn't mind putting my gear into the Carbine Air 540, but then the only intake would be through the CPU RAD.


----------



## falcon26

I'm very close to ordering this myself. Only thing is I would have to mount it in the bottom of my case. I already have an H55 on my CPU mounted in the rear. My current temps on the stock cooler are not that bad really. 40C idle and about 70C load.


----------



## PipWinsAgain

Has anyone used the g10 in a corsair 900D. Eventually I want to get a 900D and use two of these for a 980 sli setup, but from what I see most of these cpu coolers have really short tubes (id want to mount both rads on the bottom). Im just wondering if anyone here has done this and with what cooler.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PipWinsAgain*
> 
> Has anyone used the g10 in a corsair 900D. Eventually I want to get a 900D and use two of these for a 980 sli setup, but from what I see most of these cpu coolers have really short tubes (id want to mount both rads on the bottom). Im just wondering if anyone here has done this and with what cooler.


nzxt's own AIO offerings tend to have 16-inch tubes for larger builds. they can be hard to deal with in a compact case, but if you've got a large one they're perfect.


----------



## Daark

Do anyone here got an Sli/Crossfire setup in the R4? I'm planing to do that but i dont know if works.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daark*
> 
> Do anyone here got an Sli/Crossfire setup in the R4? I'm planing to do that but i dont know if works.


The post above yours should help


----------



## SmackHisFace

Hi Im looking at getting 2 G10s on my DC2 780s. To cover the Vram I looking at these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1LDHXVK2KF57B . How many packs will I need to buy to cover 2 780s and what do you guys recommend I use to cover the Vrms on these cards. (Vrm temps are my main concern as they are limiting my overclock with the CU2 cooler) Lastly what is the best way to secure these heatsinks to the cards?
Edit: Looking at this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3tfKVsR8Uk it looks like the VRM already has a heatsink on it, will this be good enough or will buying a different VRM heatsink be better?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Hi Im looking at getting 2 G10s on my DC2 780s. To cover the Vram I looking at these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1LDHXVK2KF57B . How many packs will I need to buy to cover 2 780s and what do you guys recommend I use to cover the Vrms on these cards. (Vrm temps are my main concern as they are limiting my overclock with the CU2 cooler) Lastly what is the best way to secure these heatsinks to the cards?


Here's my advice, don't worry about vram heatsinks, I have a GTX780ti Matrix, vram with my GPU RAD intaking pretty much blowing on the card never go over 60c.
Which is much lower than the stock coole, the Matrix is just a over sized DirectCU II cooler.
Focus more on keeping the VRM's cool, and as the DirectCU II already has a vrm cooler so no need to buy one.

Check out my temps in the post above.


----------



## mrzoo

Can this FAN be used for g10 it's a 4 pin pwm. And can I plug it into gpu fan header?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Can this FAN be used for g10 it's a 4 pin pwm. And can I plug it into gpu fan header?


If you have the correct adapter, some one mentioned it before.

Really the stock fan I run at 100% all the time and I don't hear it over the other low idling fans.


----------



## SmackHisFace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Here's my advice, don't worry about vram heatsinks, I have a GTX780ti Matrix, vram with my GPU RAD intaking pretty much blowing on the card never go over 60c.
> Which is much lower than the stock coole, the Matrix is just a over sized DirectCU II cooler.
> Focus more on keeping the VRM's cool, and as the DirectCU II already has a vrm cooler so no need to buy one.
> 
> Check out my temps in the post above.


So you are saying all I need is the G10 itself and a AIO? I really want to push these cards to the limit going beyond standard voltage so If i need to buy anything else Its not a problem as long as cooling is improved. Also how are you monitoring VRAM temps as I only see VRM temps for my card.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> So you are saying all I need is the G10 itself and a AIO? I really want to push these cards to the limit going beyond standard voltage so If i need to buy anything else Its not a problem as long as cooling is improved. Also how are you monitoring VRAM temps as I only see VRM temps for my card.


If you want to push the cards to the absolute limit buy a water block and a custom loop.
There is no way you're going to do that with a Kraken G10.

These were designed to lower temps better than stock cooling at a budget price, no amount of heat sinks are going to help.
Yes you can overclock a little further than air, but if you look at it you're still cooling the VRM's with AIR.

The GTX780/780ti Vrms with the stock Direct CUII cooler can hit 100c on stock cooling, my Matrix would see 98c.
Now with the Kraken G10 and a little bit of fan placement tweaking they are lucky to hit 77c, a big temp drop.


----------



## SmackHisFace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> If you want to push the cards to the absolute limit buy a water block and a custom loop.
> There is no way you're going to do that with a Kraken G10.
> 
> These were designed to lower temps better than stock cooling at a budget price, no amount of heat sinks are going to help.
> Yes you can overclock a little further than air, but if you look at it you're still cooling the VRM's with AIR.
> 
> The GTX780/780ti Vrms with the stock Direct CUII cooler can hit 100c on stock cooling, my Matrix would see 98c.
> Now with the Kraken G10 and a little bit of fan placement tweaking they are lucky to hit 77c, a big temp drop.


Yea I understand I just want to lower temps on the Vrm as much as possible using the G10. I want to do what ever it takes to lower the VRM temps aside from a custom loop as thats way out of my price range. If what you say is true and Vrm temps are lower than with the stock cooler thats perfect. Im just worried that getting a G10 will lower core temps but raise VRM temps which is not what I want at all.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Im just worried that getting a G10 will lower core temps but raise VRM temps which is not what I want at all.


Nope, on the Direct CU II coolers because of the already installed heatsink it will cool them better.
I'm able to use my back plate with it as well..


----------



## SmackHisFace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Nope, on the Direct CU II coolers because of the already installed heatsink it will cool them better.
> I'm able to use my back plate with it as well..


Really you can use the back plate as well? Is there any modding or anything I need to buy to use the backplate? I think Im sold. Looks like Im buying G10 right now. I already have a spare H110 so this should be a pretty cheap upgrade.
Edit: any recommendation for thermal paste? How about this http://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GC-Extreme-Compound-TC-GC-03-A/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8


----------



## mrzoo

Use foam blocks on g10 or not? Pros and cons please I'm installing onto msi gtx 760 gaming 2gb


----------



## mrzoo

Heat sinks on gpu mid plate or no?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Really you can use the back plate as well? Is there any modding or anything I need to buy to use the backplate? I think Im sold. Looks like Im buying G10 right now. I already have a spare H110 so this should be a pretty cheap upgrade.
> Edit: any recommendation for thermal paste? How about this http://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GC-Extreme-Compound-TC-GC-03-A/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8


Just pull the foam off the Krakens mounting plate.
Mine came off easy, didn't even rip and can be reused.

I'm just using Nocuta NT-H1, but don't buy anything conductive like AS5 or that diamond stuff (can scratch the die).
But most of the top brands are fine, I don't see the point in spend heaps for maybe 1c difference.
I've never used the Gelid stuff, but I'm guessing its as good as all the others, the NT-H1 is only like $9 here and works really well..

Here's a picture of the Matrix with the G10 and stock back plate:
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140825_125623_zpsf49e32ce.jpg.html


----------



## octiny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Hi Im looking at getting 2 G10s on my DC2 780s. To cover the Vram I looking at these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1LDHXVK2KF57B . How many packs will I need to buy to cover 2 780s and what do you guys recommend I use to cover the Vrms on these cards. (Vrm temps are my main concern as they are limiting my overclock with the CU2 cooler) Lastly what is the best way to secure these heatsinks to the cards?
> Edit: Looking at this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3tfKVsR8Uk it looks like the VRM already has a heatsink on it, will this be good enough or will buying a different VRM heatsink be better?


I had 780 DC2's for about a week myself with the G10's (see sig rig picture) before I switched to 290's. You'll be totally fine, VRMS never went above 82c during stress testing @ 1254/1700 1.212v with skyn3t bios. You can also use the backplate, and I was able to use the foam pad on the bracket as well. Have fun!


----------



## SmackHisFace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *octiny*
> 
> I had 780 DC2's for about a week myself with the G10's (see sig rig picture) before I switched to 290's. You'll be totally fine, VRMS never went above 82c during stress testing @ 1254/1700 1.212v with skyn3t bios. You can also use the backplate, and I was able to use the foam pad on the bracket as well. Have fun!


Cool good to know. How about the VRAM temps, looks like you didn't use any Vram heat sinks. Is there a way to monitor Vram temps on the 780 CU2?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Use foam blocks on g10 or not? Pros and cons please I'm installing onto msi gtx 760 gaming 2gb


I didn't use the foam blocks to be honest it didn't help me at all most don't use the foam blocks Nzxt claim to ease installation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Heat sinks on gpu mid plate or no?


Try it without them and see your temps then go from there


----------



## mrzoo

I'm having space issues with my case I really don't wanna mount fans on outside I like the clean look so I'm thinking of just mounting rad in bottom should I do intake or exhaust. I can't use side vent because only rad would fit.so my side just gonna be an intake.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I'm having space issues with my case I really don't wanna mount fans on outside I like the clean look so I'm thinking of just mounting rad in bottom should I do intake or exhaust. I can't use side vent because only rad would fit.so my side just gonna be an intake.


What case do you have?

You face my dilemma, I can only mount the GPU RAD at the bottom, I've tried intake and exhaust.
I settled for intake as there is a heap of room in the Primo and by the hot air has reached the GPU its already started to mix with the front intake cool air.
No real temperature differences, and quieter for some reason.

Here's how its setup (though fan brands have changed)
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140822_125258_zps409b7183.jpg.html


----------



## mrzoo

I have the nzxt source 210 I have 2 front intake fans and my gpu is in the middle of my t front top intake fan bottom is pretty much like yours. I wanna go with exhaust but my psi is right next to rad within take and I'm afraid it'll pull in the hot air but if I go intake the hot air blowing right on vrm fan so I'm stuck in between


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I have the nzxt source 210 I have 2 front intake fans and my gpu is in the middle of my t front top intake fan bottom is pretty much like yours. I wanna go with exhaust but my psi is right next to rad within take and I'm afraid it'll pull in the hot air but if I go intake the hot air blowing right on vrm fan so I'm stuck in between


Yeah your case doesn't have the clearance like the Enthoo Primo.
I would go exhaust in your case, if you can try an raise you case up a little off the desk/ground it will stop the hot air pooling underneath, I used 4 rectangle pencil erasers. Worked well.
If the tubes were longer on these AIO's it would make things easier.
Plus these are the down sides to 280mm rads, if I had a 240mm rad there is 2 extra places to mount it, in the front and on the side of the case..lol..


----------



## mrzoo

My case has rubber feet it's about half inch off the floor should I go higher to help air out the hot air


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> My case has rubber feet it's about half inch off the floor should I go higher to help air out the hot air


Yep, mine has the same clearance, but a little more will help, just remember once the air is under the case there is nothing to direct where the hot air goes and as hot air rises it can pool.
It's just what I found personally when I did it.


----------



## mrzoo

I'm gonna have to remount my cooler I'm running between 68° and 70°c on idle I might not put enough thermal paste I'm using arctic silver(arctic alumina). My gpu has a mid plate and I put copper heat sinks on back of card also


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I'm gonna have to remount my cooler I'm running between 68° and 70°c on idle I might not put enough thermal paste I'm using arctic silver(arctic alumina). My gpu has a mid plate and I put copper heat sinks on back of card also


Yeah that's a little on the high side


----------



## Daark

that doesn't help me, that is about the 900D.


----------



## NFSxperts

Can anyone confirm that the ASUS GTX460 or the MSI 650ti boost does not support the G10?
I have an extra Antec 920 laying around so I figure I might as well try it.

ASUS 460:
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/upload/pictures/ASUS-ENGTX460-DirectCU-1GB-PCB.jpg
MSI 650ti:
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/upload/pictures/msi-650ti-boost_70947.jpg


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I'm gonna have to remount my cooler I'm running between 68° and 70°c on idle I might not put enough thermal paste I'm using arctic silver(arctic alumina). My gpu has a mid plate and I put copper heat sinks on back of card also


Did you use a copper shim?? Copper heat sinks are for the VRMs and VRAM. You need a Copper Shim to get proper contact between the GPU's Die and the AIO's copper plate. If you didn't buy a copper shim, no amount of thermal paste is going to help. You need proper contact between the cooler and die. Apply thermal paste to both sides of the copper shim. AS5 is kind of outdated, and thermally conductive, so I strongly recommend that you buy something else. I recommend Gelid GC-Extreme.

Buy a 20mm x 20mm x .8mm Copper Shim.

Gelid GC-Extreme

VGA to 4pin PWM Adapter


----------



## mrzoo

I thought a shim was not needed for my card msi gtx760 gaming I thought shim was for 290 cards. My cooler is laying flat on the square around the die just same as the square piece of stock cooler


----------



## Rusty Toast

Speaking of shims, does an XFX Double Dissipation 290x need a shim for the g10??


----------



## Daark

If anyone got experience with dual G10's in an R4, would it work with two 140 rads in the front, one rad for each gpu and still look kinda good?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I thought a shim was not needed for my card msi gtx760 gaming I thought shim was for 290 cards. My cooler is laying flat on the square around the die just same as the square piece of stock cooler


Ahh ok, I had to look up your specific card. When you said it had a mid-plate, I automatically assumed that it needed a shim. Something must be wrong then if those are your temperatures and it is sitting flush with the GPU Die. Make sure your pump is running at or near 100% and the radiator fans are used as an exhaust.

The shim is necessary on a variety of cards, it just depends which model. My EVGA GTX 780 SC has a mid-plate that interferes with the cooler making proper contact.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rusty Toast*
> 
> Speaking of shims, does an XFX Double Dissipation 290x need a shim for the g10??


I'm trying to find a picture of the inside of that card, but can't seem to find one. If you could find a picture, please link it so someone can tell you if you need a shim or not. Off the top of my head, I don't think that card needs a shim, but its only a $3 part, so maybe better to be safe and buy it.


----------



## Rusty Toast

hmm thanks, it would be good to know, i have taken mine apart to redo the thermal paste and it seems to be level.

This review here has a couple pictures: http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/xfx_r9_290x_dd/2.htm


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rusty Toast*
> 
> hmm thanks, it would be good to know, i have taken mine apart to redo the thermal paste and it seems to be level.
> 
> This review here has a couple pictures: http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/xfx_r9_290x_dd/2.htm


Looking at the picture, it doesn't look like the mid plate would interfere with the AIO. You should be fine without a copper shim.


----------



## slugzkea

Hello all!

Check out my NZXT Kraken G10 review HERE.


----------



## mrzoo

My mid plate is similar but it doesn't go the full card like the picture you showed. I think it's the thermal paste I don't think I put enough I put a little smaller then a grain of rice I'm gonna remount maybe tomorrow blight I'm just not gonna do any gaming until I re mount. I have it as an exhaust at the bottom of my case


----------



## Razzaa

I have a MSI R9 290 reference and i just bought the G10. Can i mod the midplate and use it to cool the VRM? If so, does anyone have a link for a DIY? I looked all over and cant find any info. Thanks!!


----------



## falcon26

Has anyone ever painted one of the G10? I'd like to paint the black one a more matte black and cover the nzxt logo...


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> My mid plate is similar but it doesn't go the full card like the picture you showed. I think it's the thermal paste I don't think I put enough I put a little smaller then a grain of rice I'm gonna remount maybe tomorrow blight I'm just not gonna do any gaming until I re mount. I have it as an exhaust at the bottom of my case


That could be your problem, not enough thermal paste, but mainly having your radiator as an exhaust on the bottom of your case. That hot air has no where to go except back into the radiator. You need to mount it as an exhaust to the rear of your case.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Has anyone ever painted one of the G10? I'd like to paint the black one a more matte black and cover the nzxt logo...


Ya, I do remember someone painting one.

What ever happened to your friend with the EVGA 780 + G10? Did he add the Copper Shim like I recommended?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> I have a MSI R9 290 reference and i just bought the G10. Can i mod the midplate and use it to cool the VRM? If so, does anyone have a link for a DIY? I looked all over and cant find any info. Thanks!!


Can you post a picture of the mid-plate please? It might already be cooling the VRMs well enough. Can't hurt to add some extra heat sinks on top of the mid plate though.


----------



## falcon26

He sent it back. Said it was too loud. The pump that is. He is going to put an arctic cooling twin turbo 3 on his 780...


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> I have a MSI R9 290 reference and i just bought the G10. Can i mod the midplate and use it to cool the VRM? If so, does anyone have a link for a DIY? I looked all over and cant find any info. Thanks!!
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post a picture of the mid-plate please? It might already be cooling the VRMs well enough. Can't hurt to add some extra heat sinks on top of the mid plate though.
Click to expand...

I haven't taken my card apart yet. My vrm's never go above 65-70c with the reference cooler.


----------



## falcon26

People have said the Corsair H55 is too short to mount in the front of the case like the Fractal R3 or R4. What about the Nzxt X31 or 41 cooler, will t hat reach?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

The H55 has 12 inches of tubing, the X31/41 has 16 inches of tubing.

Just be sure that you are mounting your radiator as an exhaust.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

I got a question.

Has anyone here mount 2 AIO rads (CPU and GPU) in a NZXT H440?

I want to get this GPU RAD exhausting (OCD so its bugging me, good temps or not..lol), but the 3 cases I have here 2 of them will be starved of air or intaking through one of the RAD (CPU or course).


----------



## mrzoo

I have my cpu rad in my rear exhaust I don't have clearance at top due to ram and mosfet heat sink. What if I were to sandwich both rads between fans(fan, cpu-rad, gpu-rad, fan) has anyone ever seen that?


----------



## falcon26

Does anyone have that link to the 3 pin to 4 pin adapter so you can plug any 92mm fan into the video card instead of the motherboard?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Does anyone have that link to the 3 pin to 4 pin adapter so you can plug any 92mm fan into the video card instead of the motherboard?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13314/cab-454/Gelid_Solutions_PWM_Fan_Adapter_for_VGA_Cards_CA-PWM-02.html#blank
You are going to need a copper shim for your 780:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20763/thr-218/Pure_Copper_Thermal_Shim_-_20mm_x_20mm_x_08mm.html


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I got a question.
> 
> Has anyone here mount 2 AIO rads (CPU and GPU) in a NZXT H440?
> 
> I want to get this GPU RAD exhausting (OCD so its bugging me, good temps or not..lol), but the 3 cases I have here 2 of them will be starved of air or intaking through one of the RAD (CPU or course).


i've got an h100i exhausting in the top of mine, and i'm pretty sure i can fit another 120/140 on the back exhaust.....so yes?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> i've got an h100i exhausting in the top of mine, and i'm pretty sure i can fit another 120/140 on the back exhaust.....so yes?


Should of pointed out what RADs..lol
I have a Corsair H110 and a Kraken X60, both are 280mm RAD's..


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Should of pointed out what RADs..lol
> I have a Corsair H110 and a Kraken X60, both are 280mm RAD's..


well, in that case, i would advise the CPU rad in the front, intaking. CPU rads don't pump out nearly the amount of heat while gaming as they do during synthetic benches. you can be gaming hard and the air coming out of the CPU rad will be tepid at most. i don't get temps above 60 for my CPU while gaming.

and have the GPU rad on the top, exhausting, because it's going to get hotter.

basically, it's better to have the smaller delta T rad as intake and the larger delta T rad as exhaust.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> well, in that case, i would advise the CPU rad in the front, intaking. CPU rads don't pump out nearly the amount of heat while gaming as they do during synthetic benches.


The dilemma now is do I use the H440 or the Carbine Air 540...

In the 540 I could do a push pull on the CPU RAD, which will move more air, then do a pull on the GPU RAD.
Would use the rear fan as an intake as well (I have a spare 140mm round filter.)


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> The dilemma now is do I use the H440 or the Carbine Air 540...
> 
> In the 540 I could do a push pull on the CPU RAD, which will move more air, then do a pull on the GPU RAD.
> Would use the rear fan as an intake as well (I have a spare 140mm round filter.)


up to you!


----------



## maynard14

I have corsair 540 ...this case is amazing. And its easy to use. My set up is rad on top as intake also fan at the back as intake... Then the gpu rad is position as exhaust... Im using corsair h105 for the cpu and nzxt kraken x60 for the gpu as exhaust. Good temps. But deciding to switch to h440 but having 2nd thoughts coz h440 doesnt have good air flow unlike the corsair 540. But aestetics h440 wins its simple and clean looks


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> up to you!


Yeah that's the problem, indecisive and finding the time..lol..

Personally I've never been happy with any of the new cases, always loved my Carbine 500R, but there's no where in that for 2 280mm RAD's..lol..


----------



## falcon26

Wait I would need a shim with my 780 to MSI gaming? I thought I didn't need that....


----------



## falcon26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Wait I would need a shim with my 780 ti MSI gaming? I thought I didn't need that....


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Wait I would need a shim with my 780 to MSI gaming? I thought I didn't need that....


No, usually its the older AMD cards need shims.
I haven't seen a 780 needing a shim.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> No, usually its the older AMD cards need shims.
> I haven't seen a 780 needing a shim.


My 780 EVGA SC Needs a Shim... I've said this many many times. Each model is different, and it depends on the layout of the mid-plate. If your mid-plate has notches that extend towards the center close to the GPU's Die, then you need a shim.

Look at this below picture, do you see the 4 "prongs" that are part of the mid plate that extend towards the GPU's Die. You have to either remove those, which voids your warranty, or buy a copper shim.


Looking at the MSI GTX 780 Ti Gaming's PCB, it looks like there is no mid plate, so a shim will not be required. You WILL need to place a lot of heat sinks though because there is no mid plate to passively cool the VRAM and VRMs.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> My 780 EVGA SC Needs a Shim... I've said this many many times. Each model is different, and it depends on the layout of the mid-plate. If your mid-plate has notches that extend towards the center close to the GPU's Die, then you need a shim.


That is if you want to use your already installed heatsink on the evga cards otherwise you can cut the screw mounts off and the pump fits perfectly.
For all the 780 GPU die's you don't need one, technically you don't need one either, but you're using the installed heat sinks.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> That is if you want to use your already installed heatsink on the evga cards otherwise you can cut the screw mounts off and the pump fits perfectly.
> For all the 780 GPU die's you don't need one, technically you don't need one either, but you're using the installed heat sinks.


The already installed heatsink = mid plate. If you cut those screw mounts that I highlighted in green, you void your warranty. Much less trouble to buy a $3 copper shim and apply thermal paste to either side. Temperatures are still very good, never breaking 47C during 3 hours of BF4 at 60% fan speed 2 fans in push/pull as rear exhaust. The copper shim doesn't have a negative impact on performance, or if it does, I don't care because my temperatures are so good with it.

Every card is different, so check pictures to make sure what your card does and doesn't require. There are only a few cards that require the shim, but I make sure to mention it to people. Better to be safe than sorry.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Every card is different, so check pictures to make sure what your card does and doesn't require. There are only a few cards that require the shim, but I make sure to mention it to people. Better to be safe than sorry.


All the 780/780ti GPU dies are exactly the same, its the surround heatsinks and PCB that are slightly different.
For a bare card no matter what brand you don't need a shim, for eVGA if you want to use the already installed heatsink yes a shim is needed, if you take it off its not.
It only seems to be the eVGA cards that put the mounts close to the die.

When you start talking other cards more so last model AMD's, yes shims are needed.


----------



## falcon26

it that adapter, can I use a 3 pin 92 mm fan on the G10 or does it have to be a 4 pin? I was thinking of using this...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226039


----------



## octiny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> it that adapter, can I use a 3 pin 92 mm fan on the G10 or does it have to be a 4 pin?


Doesn't matter, using 3-pin fans on my G10's


----------



## falcon26

Ok good to know...


----------



## falcon26

One ting I forgot. Does the H55 already come with thermal paste on it? So I don't need to buy or apply any when installing the H55 on the G10?


----------



## mrzoo

I found a solution to my case space issue I'm removing my HDD bay like this video build buildhttp://youtu.be/5TPtwkNETm8 then put my cpu rad in front as intake and gpu in rear exhaust


----------



## falcon26

I can't decide if I want the black or red G10 in my case. And thoughts on what would look better in my case?


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I can't decide if I want the black or red G10 in my case. And thoughts on what would look better in my case?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Black in Black, much cleaner look for your rig.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> One ting I forgot. Does the H55 already come with thermal paste on it? So I don't need to buy or apply any when installing the H55 on the G10?


Yes. New products do come with a TIM pre-applied. However, it may not be placed optimally for gpu. The cpu has a heat spreader and thats what the TIM is pre applied to accommodate.


----------



## falcon26

OK, I ordered the black G10 and the H55. I also ordered a different 92mm fan. Oh and the 4 pin adapter thing to put the 92mm fan on the video card......I'll set this up this weekend...


----------



## mrzoo

So I installed my g10 a 2 days ago and my gpu was running at 70°c on idle not sure why I thought it mightve been nit enough thermal paste or not contact but seems like I have contact what do you think of thermal paste.







[/URL]


----------



## mrzoo

Is this to much.....


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Is this to much.....


yes, take a biz card and spread out and remove excess


----------



## mrzoo

How about this


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> How about this


take a biz card and spread out thin until surface is covered


----------



## mrzoo

Like this lol sorry I just tryna get it right


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Like this lol sorry I just tryna get it right


perfect


----------



## mrzoo

Now my idle is at 34°c steady max hit 60c on bf4 but played just for like 10 min. I haven't oc gpu yet


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Now my idle is at 34°c steady max hit 60c on bf4 but played just for like 10 min. I haven't oc gpu yet


those numbers are good,welcome to the pack


----------



## mrzoo

My cpu was idle at 20c 11 min of prime 95 small fft only hit 60c


----------



## pdasterly

what card do you have?

edit:nevrmind.

download gpu-z and watch your vrm temps


----------



## mrzoo

I have it I'll check tomorrow gotta hit d sack got work in the a.m. my card is a msi gtx 760 gaming 2gb oc version


----------



## riad

Got 2 Titans that i'm planning to do, wish me luck.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

You might need more heat sinks for 2 Titans, but I'm excited!! Bring on the pics! I want before and after temps!


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> Got 2 Titans that i'm planning to do, wish me luck.


that gamepad sux, try xbox 360 controller


----------



## Razzaa

Anyone have a guide to modify a 290 midplate to keep the VRM'S cool? Would it help even?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

there is a way. I believe you have to take off all the plastic stuff ( fan, and heatsink shroud) then put it into the oven. like at 350. just enough to melt the solder holding the heatsink to the vrm/memory plate. once you do that you should be able to use the stock plate. Just a note i think the copper heatsink will balloon up because it uses vapor chamber and it will expand and cause it to balloon so it will ruin your copper heat sink.


----------



## pdasterly

why nit
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Anyone have a guide to modify a 290 midplate to keep the VRM'S cool? Would it help even?


why not use gelid heat sink kit


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> why nit
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Anyone have a guide to modify a 290 midplate to keep the VRM'S cool? Would it help even?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why not use gelid heat sink kit
Click to expand...

I ordered this kit from newegg.

GELID Solutions CL-R9290-01-A R9 290 Series VRM Cooling Enhancement Kit Compatible to AMD R9 290/290X

I guess im just anxious. I have my H55 and Kraken G10 already. Want to put it all together lol


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> I ordered this kit from newegg.
> 
> GELID Solutions CL-R9290-01-A R9 290 Series VRM Cooling Enhancement Kit Compatible to AMD R9 290/290X
> 
> I guess im just anxious. I have my H55 and Kraken G10 already. Want to put it all together lol


get some fujipoly while its apart


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> I ordered this kit from newegg.
> 
> GELID Solutions CL-R9290-01-A R9 290 Series VRM Cooling Enhancement Kit Compatible to AMD R9 290/290X
> 
> I guess im just anxious. I have my H55 and Kraken G10 already. Want to put it all together lol
> 
> 
> 
> get some fujipoly while its apart
Click to expand...

Im in Canada. Im sure it is hard to find up here......


----------



## pdasterly

its hard to find in north america, frozencpu has the ultra extreme 17w/mK stuff, totally worth it and you don't need but enough to cover vrm1


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> its hard to find in north america, frozencpu has the ultra extreme 17w/mK stuff, totally worth it and you don't need but enough to cover vrm1


Does the stuff in the kit suck? If so, should I re-use the pads from the stock cooler? They are in great condition.


----------



## pdasterly

its ok but vrm1 temp get hot when overclocking


----------



## Noah3210

Hey you guys I'm having a hard time attaching the 92mm fan to the bracket is anyone else having this problem? It seems like the provided screws are too big for the fan holes?


----------



## riad

I don't like where the joystick is for the Xbox 360 controller plus this one is cheaper by far.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> take a biz card and spread out thin until surface is covered


Just wondering what the point of spreading it is? It's gona spread itself when you put the cooler on....I guess if you want to make sure you have enough amount applied....

I always have luck with the dot in the middle weather its GPU or CPU


----------



## Razzaa

Well I am curious to see the difference in temps so I am installing my G10 with a H55 today but without the VRM heatsink. They are on the way. Do I just plug everything into my mobo fan headers? Pump and G10 fan? Also, I have always had better temps with my rads as intake. What do you guys suggest. Currently I have 5 x 120mm intakes with 1 x 140mm as exhaust out the back.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> I don't like where the joystick is for the Xbox 360 controller plus this one is cheaper by far.


Wrong thread?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Well I am curious to see the difference in temps so I am installing my G10 with a H55 today but without the VRM heatsink. They are on the way. Do I just plug everything into my mobo fan headers? Pump and G10 fan? Also, I have always had better temps with my rads as intake. What do you guys suggest. Currently I have 5 x 120mm intakes with 1 x 140mm as exhaust out the back.


Yeah you can plug them straight into your mainboard fan headers. With the amount of heat you will be dumping off the GPU, I would seriously try and exhaust if at all possible.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Well I am curious to see the difference in temps so I am installing my G10 with a H55 today but without the VRM heatsink. They are on the way. Do I just plug everything into my mobo fan headers? Pump and G10 fan? Also, I have always had better temps with my rads as intake. What do you guys suggest. Currently I have 5 x 120mm intakes with 1 x 140mm as exhaust out the back.


You are going to want to use your G10's Radiator as an exhaust. The heat coming from the thing is considerable. You want it being expelled from your case. Definitely an exhaust. Mount it as rear exhaust to maintain your positive air pressure, and it will look the best like this.

Yes, everything will be plugged into the motherboard fan headers. Hopefull you have room for it all, or fan splitters. You could also buy a VGA to Fan Adapter so you can plug the G10's 92mm fan into the video card and control it through Afterburner. Turn off auto and set it to a constant 80-100%.

Are you eventually going to add VRM Heatsinks? It would be great if you could give us before and after temps for the VRMs when you do install the heatsinks, if you do.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Well I am curious to see the difference in temps so I am installing my G10 with a H55 today but without the VRM heatsink. They are on the way. Do I just plug everything into my mobo fan headers? Pump and G10 fan? Also, I have always had better temps with my rads as intake. What do you guys suggest. Currently I have 5 x 120mm intakes with 1 x 140mm as exhaust out the back.
> 
> 
> 
> You are going to want to use your G10's Radiator as an exhaust. The heat coming from the thing is considerable. You want it being expelled from your case. Definitely an exhaust. Mount it as rear exhaust to maintain your positive air pressure, and it will look the best like this.
> 
> Yes, everything will be plugged into the motherboard fan headers. Hopefull you have room for it all, or fan splitters. You could also buy a VGA to Fan Adapter so you can plug the G10's 92mm fan into the video card and control it through Afterburner. Turn off auto and set it to a constant 80-100%.
> 
> Are you eventually going to add VRM Heatsinks? It would be great if you could give us before and after temps for the VRMs when you do install the heatsinks, if you do.
Click to expand...

I am just going to plug my G10 fan into a header and run it at 100%. I ordered the Gelid heatsink kit and it is in the mail. I will report on before and after temps.

My h55 wont fit in the back as a exhaust. I have a Noctua D14 cooler and it takes up to much room. I have 3 intakes in the front of my case and the rad will only reach to the middle slot. I am going to have to exhaust from that slot in a pull configuration.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Ok, that works. Put your hand in front of the exhausting radiator after playing a game for 30min and you will understand why you want it as exhaust.

Please let us know how your temps are before and after the heat sinks, I am very curious. Thank you!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Defiantly on smaller AIO RAD's exhaust is a must, they heat up way more that the larger ones.

With the Kraken x60/H110 having a 280mm RAD, they can cool better and not throw out as much heat into the case.
That's not to saw they don't get warm though, and a little bit of Fan tweaking is needed.


----------



## Voltaire90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> My 780 EVGA SC Needs a Shim... I've said this many many times. Each model is different, and it depends on the layout of the mid-plate. If your mid-plate has notches that extend towards the center close to the GPU's Die, then you need a shim.
> 
> Look at this below picture, do you see the 4 "prongs" that are part of the mid plate that extend towards the GPU's Die. You have to either remove those, which voids your warranty, or buy a copper shim.
> 
> 
> Looking at the MSI GTX 780 Ti Gaming's PCB, it looks like there is no mid plate, so a shim will not be required. You WILL need to place a lot of heat sinks though because there is no mid plate to passively cool the VRAM and VRMs.


I had the same problem, but I just clipped them off and all is well. I had shims, but not needed if you are handy with a pair of cutting pliers. There are plenty of other screws for support, especially with the presence of a back and front plate


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> I had the same problem, but I just clipped them off and all is well. I had shims, but not needed if you are handy with a pair of cutting pliers. There are plenty of other screws for support, especially with the presence of a back and front plate


People are just worried about voiding warranty by clipping them off, hence why they recommend shims.
It's always better using the attached heat sinks, but it seems on eVGA cards it makes it harder to use.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ok, that works. Put your hand in front of the exhausting radiator after playing a game for 30min and you will understand why you want it as exhaust.
> 
> Please let us know how your temps are before and after the heat sinks, I am very curious. Thank you!


Stock clocks running Valley on extreme hd with no VRM heatsinks. I am not overly worried about those temps. The GPU temps are awesome and everything is silent.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> 
> Stock clocks running Valley on extreme hd with no VRM heatsinks. I am not overly worried about those temps. The GPU temps are awesome and everything is silent.


Very nice! What kind of core and VRM temperatures were you getting before G10 mod? I am still curious to see how much the heat sinks lower the VRM temps.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voltaire90*
> 
> I had the same problem, but I just clipped them off and all is well. I had shims, but not needed if you are handy with a pair of cutting pliers. There are plenty of other screws for support, especially with the presence of a back and front plate


As already mentioned by schoolofmonkey, that voids your warranty and EVGA does not sell those midplates separately. I hope nothing ever goes wrong with your card.

$3 Shim < $500 video card.

I use the Shim and my temperatures are incredible. I was kind of expecting my temperatures to be slightly higher than others because I was using a shim, but my temperatures are in-line with others, if not better. I use Gelid GC Extreme Thermal Compound, and you place the thermal paste on both sides of the shim.

Kraken X31, 2 Fans in Push/Pull @ 60%(1200rpm) never exceeds 49C during 3 hours of BF4. Usually in the 44-47C range.

To anyone reading this, go for the shim method. Voiding your warranty is not worth it.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very nice! What kind of core and VRM temperatures were you getting before G10 mod? I am still curious to see how much the heat sinks lower the VRM temps.


On the reference cooler i was getting about 75-80c on the core and around 70c on the VRM's but it was loud as hell. I get the heat sinks tonight and i will report back.


----------



## k3mist

HiS 290x with Corsair H55 and Kraken G10.

Everything fit perfectly. Steady hands and a lot of dexterity is required to mount the G10 with the CPU cooler if you don't want to damage anything. I found putting the radiator on my lap with the desk as close to my lap as possible worked pretty well.

I decided to leave the stock heat spreader and backplate for reinforcement, avoid bending the pcb, and also keep the VRMs cool, but honestly, not thrilled with VRM temps.

The spreader is not getting air closest to the display ports near the rear of the case and gets pretty hot. It stays within ranges so there is no throttling but still very hot. I haven't done anything to remedy this yet because I am debating going under water.

I have each pump and the fan for each g10 going to the mobo (chassis fan hookups) and the radiator fans are hooked up to a fan controller.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> As already mentioned by schoolofmonkey, that voids your warranty and EVGA does not sell those midplates separately. I hope nothing ever goes wrong with your card.
> 
> $3 Shim < $500 video card.
> 
> I use the Shim and my temperatures are incredible. I was kind of expecting my temperatures to be slightly higher than others because I was using a shim, but my temperatures are in-line with others, if not better. I use Gelid GC Extreme Thermal Compound, and you place the thermal paste on both sides of the shim.
> 
> Kraken X31, 2 Fans in Push/Pull @ 60%(1200rpm) never exceeds 49C during 3 hours of BF4. Usually in the 44-47C range.
> 
> To anyone reading this, go for the shim method. Voiding your warranty is not worth it.


could you post a link to what shim you got for yours?
thanks


----------



## Cysquatch

Hi everyone. I've been running my bracket for a week or so now on my R9 290. I ran into some temp issues on vrm and the core. I think its fixed but my core temp still seems a little high. Any insight would be appreciated. This is after about 30 minutes of Ungine Valley


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Hi everyone. I've been running my bracket for a week or so now on my R9 290. I ran into some temp issues on vrm and the core. I think its fixed but my core temp still seems a little high. Any insight would be appreciated. This is after about 30 minutes of Ungine Valley


temps are golden


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Hi everyone. I've been running my bracket for a week or so now on my R9 290. I ran into some temp issues on vrm and the core. I think its fixed but my core temp still seems a little high. Any insight would be appreciated. This is after about 30 minutes of Ungine Valley


Lol joking right? Those temps are great.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Ya dude, no idea what you're complaining about, those temps are incredible for an R9 290, you should be ecstatic!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> could you post a link to what shim you got for yours?
> thanks


I've linked this many, many, many times.

Here it is again:

Copper Shim, 20mm x 20mm x .8mm


----------



## IamMark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> As already mentioned by schoolofmonkey, that voids your warranty and EVGA does not sell those midplates separately. I hope nothing ever goes wrong with your card.
> 
> $3 Shim < $500 video card.
> 
> I use the Shim and my temperatures are incredible. I was kind of expecting my temperatures to be slightly higher than others because I was using a shim, but my temperatures are in-line with others, if not better. I use Gelid GC Extreme Thermal Compound, and you place the thermal paste on both sides of the shim.
> 
> Kraken X31, 2 Fans in Push/Pull @ 60%(1200rpm) never exceeds 49C during 3 hours of BF4. Usually in the 44-47C range.
> 
> To anyone reading this, go for the shim method. Voiding your warranty is not worth it.


What fans are you using on the radiator, and are you running the G10's stock fan at full speed?

Also, I bought that same shim, and it doesn't cover the entire GPU core. It also seems like the shim could have been a smidge thicker.

Thanks.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IamMark*
> 
> What fans are you using on the radiator, and are you running the G10's stock fan at full speed?
> 
> Also, I bought that same shim, and it doesn't cover the entire GPU core. It also seems like the shim could have been a smidge thicker.
> 
> Thanks.


I use the stock fan that came with the X31 and a Cooler Master Blade Master. Blade Master in push, NZXT fan in pull.

The Blade Master is an very underrated fan. It is only $9 on Amazon, has a static pressure of 3.9mm/H20 and RPM of up to 2400. Its only knock is that it does get loud at higher RPMs, but I personally don't have the need to run it at higher than 1400rpm, and am usually in the 800-1200rpm range. I also have a Cooler Master Seidon 240M for my CPU which uses blade masters and my temps never exceed 50C @ 1200rpm with a 4.5Ghz - 1.2v. If interested, you can view my full review with statistics here.

I run the included G10 92mm fan at 85% constant.

No, the shim doesn't cover the entire GPU core, but that is the largest size that they sell. It is either 15mm or 20mm, so get the 20mm. My temperatures are fantastic using it. I couldn't find any 1mm thick 20mm x 20mm copper shims, so I went with the .8mm and it works like a charm. No complaints.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Lol joking right? Those temps are great.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ya dude, no idea what you're complaining about, those temps are incredible for an R9 290, you should be ecstatic!










sorry i thought i saw guys running lower temps on the core. Thanks for the reassurance


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very nice! What kind of core and VRM temperatures were you getting before G10 mod? I am still curious to see how much the heat sinks lower the VRM temps.


With heatsinks


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> With heatsinks


what was your ambient temp with these numbers?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry i thought i saw guys running lower temps on the core. Thanks for the reassurance


+1 one of the best temps I've seen on a 290 from what most state high 60's- high 70's...







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> With heatsinks


Can I see your heaven benchmarks? Wanna compare mine to yours.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> With heatsinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what was your ambient temp with these numbers?
Click to expand...

Around 25c.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry i thought i saw guys running lower temps on the core. Thanks for the reassurance
> 
> 
> 
> +1 one of the best temps I've seen on a 290 from what most state high 60's- high 70's...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> With heatsinks
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can I see your heaven benchmarks? Wanna compare mine to yours.
Click to expand...

For stock clocks?


----------



## pdasterly

there's no argument that the g10 bracket works great with stock clocks, Its' just the vrm1 temp when overclocked


----------



## IamMark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I use the stock fan that came with the X31 and a Cooler Master Blade Master. Blade Master in push, NZXT fan in pull.
> 
> The Blade Master is an very underrated fan. It is only $9 on Amazon, has a static pressure of 3.9mm/H20 and RPM of up to 2400. Its only knock is that it does get loud at higher RPMs, but I personally don't have the need to run it at higher than 1400rpm, and am usually in the 800-1200rpm range. I also have a Cooler Master Seidon 240M for my CPU which uses blade masters and my temps never exceed 50C @ 1200rpm with a 4.5Ghz - 1.2v. If interested, you can view my full review with statistics here.
> 
> I run the included G10 92mm fan at 85% constant.
> 
> No, the shim doesn't cover the entire GPU core, but that is the largest size that they sell. It is either 15mm or 20mm, so get the 20mm. My temperatures are fantastic using it. I couldn't find any 1mm thick 20mm x 20mm copper shims, so I went with the .8mm and it works like a charm. No complaints.


Thanks! So did you try running with the radiator in just a push configuration, and if so, how much did temps drop when you added the pull? Also, is there a reason you're running the G10 fan at a constant speed instead of connecting it to the video card and having it to the throttling (maybe you don't have the necessary cable)? Lastly, are you running the pump at 100%?

Mark


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> there's no argument that the g10 bracket works great with stock clocks, Its' just the vrm1 temp when overclocked


Overclocked @ 1150mhz my vrm gets up around 70c using the Gelid kit. 70c is gtg imo.


----------



## pdasterly

best ive seen


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> best ive seen


I will post some screens when i get home later. I was running Valley all day and the highest i saw was 75c mid day.


----------



## SmackHisFace

What is the consensus on replacing the stock fan with a Noctua 92mm. The Noctua NF-B9 PWM are on amazon for $15.50. Are there any fans that preform better than this I should be looking at?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IamMark*
> 
> Thanks! So did you try running with the radiator in just a push configuration, and if so, how much did temps drop when you added the pull? Also, is there a reason you're running the G10 fan at a constant speed instead of connecting it to the video card and having it to the throttling (maybe you don't have the necessary cable)? Lastly, are you running the pump at 100%?
> 
> Mark


I actually never tried with just push. I had the extra fan laying around, so I mounted it from the onset. The biggest benefit from push/pull is that you can have the fans at a lower speed while getting the same performance as if you had one fan running at high RPMs. I like a mixture of quiet and performance. I seem to get the best results at the 1200rpm.

You are supposed to run the G10's fan at a constant rate because it has to cool the VRMs. I do have the adapter to have the G10 plugged into the GPU. The problem with a fan curve is that the temperature is measured from the core. The core is different from the VRMs. You cannot measure the VRMs temperature, so you have the G10 running at a constantly high rate. You don't mess around with VRMs, you want them cool. The included fan is very quiet, so even at full speed you barely hear it. I keep mine at a constant 85% because I never like running anything at full speed 24/7. If you have the necessary adapter, go into Afterburner and disable the fan curve, and switch to a constant 80%+.

I keep my pumps at 90%, just a notch below full speed. I don't know why I'm weird like that. In my head I just imagine the fans and pump wearing down faster if they are at their max capacity full time. You are supposed to run the pump at a very high speed. 80-100%. Most people run their pumps at full speed.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> What is the consensus on replacing the stock fan with a Noctua 92mm. The Noctua NF-B9 PWM are on amazon for $15.50. Are there any fans that preform better than this I should be looking at?


The stock fan is already very quiet even at max speed. It really isn't something you *need* to be spending money on. If you really want to change out the stock fan, I recommend the Cooler Master Blade Master fans, I'm pretty sure that they make a 92mm version.


----------



## Noah3210

Hey guys I just installed my g10 on my 290 I'm kinda new tool this and I'm curious about the Temps I tried cpuz but it just says 30 degrees that's it and nothing for my 2nd one it just reads 0c but they show up as installed in amd hardware also those stupid heatsinks keep falling off is it OK 2 leave them off or should I just buy a better thermal paste? Also since I used a h55 I didn't add any more thermal paste because it had some on it already but I do have some noctua stuff am I good? I plugged it in a while ago and I got some sparks and smoke but I checked I think but everything is cool I think. I didn't have one of the pumps attached


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> +1 one of the best temps I've seen on a 290 from what most state high 60's- high 70's...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I see your heaven benchmarks? Wanna compare mine to yours.


Heaven on stock clocks.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> best ive seen


OC of 1150Mhz

Core - 55c
VRM #1 - 69c
VRM #2 - 60c


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> OC of 1150Mhz
> 
> Core - 55c
> VRM #1 - 69c
> VRM #2 - 60c


Those are really good numbers for a 290. Good job









How are you liking your 4790K? Im installing one along with a Sabertooth Z97 in the next couple days. Have you overclocked it yet?


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> What is the consensus on replacing the stock fan with a Noctua 92mm. The Noctua NF-B9 PWM are on amazon for $15.50. Are there any fans that preform better than this I should be looking at?


I am running a 92mm noctua and i have it flipped so its blowing on the heatsink. Up the page a little youll see my temps. Also im running a modded stock baseplate.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> For stock clocks?


Yes please, mine are at stock and I get around 1038 in heaven. Thinking about going 290....

Edit: wow the 290 really puts the 770 to shame... I guess it does have a higher price but still them benches rape my meer 1038..but then again I'm running 1920x1080 your not doing true 1080p res..


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I am running a 92mm noctua and i have it flipped so its blowing on the heatsink. Up the page a little youll see my temps. Also im running a modded stock baseplate.


I used zalman shark fin fan, didn't notice any noticeable difference other than it spins faster but still very quiet at full tilt


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noah3210*
> 
> Hey guys I just installed my g10 on my 290 I'm kinda new tool this and I'm curious about the Temps I tried cpuz but it just says 30 degrees that's it and nothing for my 2nd one it just reads 0c but they show up as installed in amd hardware also those stupid heatsinks keep falling off is it OK 2 leave them off or should I just buy a better thermal paste? Also since I used a h55 I didn't add any more thermal paste because it had some on it already but I do have some noctua stuff am I good? I plugged it in a while ago and I got some sparks and smoke but I checked I think but everything is cool I think. I didn't have one of the pumps attached


Not trying to scare you but sparks and smoke isn't natural and am afraid something is blown, weather you find a compasitor popped on your motherboard or the card itself....where did the sparks and smoke come from???


----------



## TheoS53

Hey guys,

Just finished installing the G10 and Thermaltake Water 3.0 Pro on my Gigabyte R9 270X 2GB. Really impressed with the drop in temps and looks great with the Water 3.0 Extreme that I've got on the CPU.

Did some tests...here are the results running Heaven Benchmark on the highest settings, no overclocking done:

Stock cooling (GPU, CPU and case fans on Auto):
Idle temp: 27
Max temp: 57

Stock cooling (GPU, CPU and case fans on Full):
Idle temp: 27
Max temp: 49

Water cooling (GPU, CPU and case fans on Auto):
Idle temp 26
Max temp: 43

Water cooling (GPU. CPU and case fans on Full):
Idle temp: 26
Max temp: 37

Got a question though, I added some heatsinks to the VRAM (or VRM?..the rectangular black chips), and I attached some thermal sensors to those heatsinks...I'm getting max temps of 65 on one row of those chips, and max of 47 on the other row. Is that ok?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoS53*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Just finished installing the G10 and Thermaltake Water 3.0 Pro on my Gigabyte R9 270X 2GB. Really impressed with the drop in temps and looks great with the Water 3.0 Extreme that I've got on the CPU.
> 
> Did some tests...here are the results running Heaven Benchmark on the highest settings, no overclocking done:
> 
> Stock cooling (GPU, CPU and case fans on Auto):
> Idle temp: 27
> Max temp: 57
> 
> Stock cooling (GPU, CPU and case fans on Full):
> Idle temp: 27
> Max temp: 49
> 
> Water cooling (GPU, CPU and case fans on Auto):
> Idle temp 26
> Max temp: 43
> 
> Water cooling (GPU. CPU and case fans on Full):
> Idle temp: 26
> Max temp: 37
> 
> Got a question though, I added some heatsinks to the VRAM (or VRM?..the rectangular black chips), and I attached some thermal sensors to those heatsinks...I'm getting max temps of 65 on one row of those chips, and max of 47 on the other row. Is that ok?


Yes, all of those temperatures are good. I'm perplexed as to why you did the G10 mod though.... Those temperatures with the stock heatsink are unbelievable. Ya, with watercooling it dropped a lot, but man, your stock temps are as good as some of our water cooled temps.

Your VRAM/VRM temps are fine. 90C is when you should start getting worried.


----------



## TheoS53

Simply, because I can lol. I'm very new to PC building, so I'm just messing around. I must say I'm very impressed with the Corsair 450D case, tons of space for fans, so I reckon thats possibly why the temps are that good with the stock GPU cooling. But remember, those temps are at stock clock and mem settings...I'm sure you guys do a fair amount of overclocking, which may be why you see higher temps


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoS53*
> 
> Simply, because I can lol. I'm very new to PC building, so I'm just messing around. I must say I'm very impressed with the Corsair 450D case, tons of space for fans, so I reckon thats possibly why the temps are that good with the stock GPU cooling. But remember, those temps are at stock clock and mem settings...I'm sure you guys do a fair amount of overclocking, which may be why you see higher temps


OCing typically only adds a few degrees C or so, at least with my gpus. Temps tend to go up quick when you start over-volting. But there is nothing wrong with doing it just because.







Some people just like to tinker. I am one of them.


----------



## TheoS53

Here's a screenshot. Notice the Ambient temp reading. that's from another thermal sensor that i have stuck to the bottom of the case


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoS53*
> 
> Here's a screenshot. Notice the Ambient temp reading. that's from another thermal sensor that i have stuck to the bottom of the case


Nice, my wifes machine has a 270x and it only hits 50C under load. Those are very nice and cool GPUS for the money.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> OC of 1150Mhz
> 
> Core - 55c
> VRM #1 - 69c
> VRM #2 - 60c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are really good numbers for a 290. Good job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are you liking your 4790K? Im installing one along with a Sabertooth Z97 in the next couple days. Have you overclocked it yet?
Click to expand...

Love my 4790k lol. Its a beast. I got it stable at 4.8ghz on 1.3v. I stopped there because i got obsessed with getting my 290 cool and quiet. Got my 290 to 1200/1500. Just scored a 2889 in Valley Extreme HD.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> For stock clocks?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes please, mine are at stock and I get around 1038 in heaven. Thinking about going 290....
> 
> Edit: wow the 290 really puts the 770 to shame... I guess it does have a higher price but still them benches rape my meer 1038..but then again I'm running 1920x1080 your not doing true 1080p res..
Click to expand...

I will run it in full screen later for you. The score is similar.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Love my 4790k lol. Its a beast. I got it stable at 4.8ghz on 1.3v. I stopped there because i got obsessed with getting my 290 cool and quiet. Got my 290 to 1200/1500. Just scored a 2889 in Valley Extreme HD.


Good to know, I was planning on shooting for 4.7 or 4.8 out of the gate with it.


----------



## falcon26

So before I buy the g10, I got some gelid GC extreme thermal paste to see if my temps would drop. Well they did by about 2-4 degrees. So now its do I get the g10 or not. Man tough choice


----------



## TheoS53

Here are my Valley scores...pretty crap against that 4790K 290 setup hehe.

Specs:
Asus Gryphon Z87
i5-4570 3.6Ghz (Turbo), Water 3.0 Extreme cooler
Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24-2T
Gigabyte R9 270X 2GB 1100Mhz core, 1400Mhz memory, Kraken G10 + Water 3.0 Pro cooler

Fan settings were on Auto for all fans according to the Asus AI Suite 3 "Turbo" settings

All Stock Settings




Overclocked:
CPU: 3.78Ghz
RAM: 1680Mhz 8-9-8-21-1T
GPU: 1225 Mhz core, 1590Mhz memory




That Water 3.0 Pro is keeping the GPU icy cool


----------



## maynard14

Going to buy a new cooler, kraken x60 just failed on me, pump just stop working, gotta buy x31 or the new x61, time to save,.

just got new ram sinks also and newly painted nzxt g10 again to much my case


----------



## Noah3210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Not trying to scare you but sparks and smoke isn't natural and am afraid something is blown, weather you find a compasitor popped on your motherboard or the card itself....where did the sparks and smoke come from???


Sorry for the late reply but it wasn't sparks and smoke it was a bad sata power extension. But I got my stuff installed but my Temps don't look anything like everyone's I tried playing watch dogs at 4k and vrm 1 go to 80c and remember I have those copper heatsinks too. I also have another question could it be possible that what the vram heat up it cause the adhesive on the copper heatsinks to come off? Because I think that's what happening? Sorry this is a first time build. I actually think that I need to give it more airflow it looks too cramped I can attach pictures.


----------



## GeToChKn

I'm in the club!

So one of the fan's on my 7870 died. It's less than a year old, and I could probably RMA it, but I don't have a spare card and don't want to buy a cheap card to get by on, ship it all over the world, etc. It ran warm before, in the high 70's, and was hitting 80's with the dead fan.

So my local computer place had the NZXT G10 water cooler bracker on sale, and a Corsair H55 on sale as well. So I figured $70 was worth it to try to save my card and worst case, I could take it back minus a 10% re-stocking fee, so $7 to try.

I have a Sapphire 7870, and it's apparently not based on the reference design. lol. The bracket fit though, it's just a bit further down the card than it's supposed to be. The H55 fits well in it. The Sapphire card has a slimline VRM heatsink on it already, so I didn't have to worry about that. The fan on the G10 cools the RAM.

So I got it all together, fired it up. Temps around 43c in Heaven Benchmarks on Ultra. Then red screen. Checked to make sure the pump was plugged in, rebooted, red screen. Freaking out, I tear it all apart and realized I didn't fully tighten the screws holding the water block to the GPU. lol. They do need to be tighted a bit, just not enough to flex your board.

I tighten it, fire up Heaven bench, 47c after the full benchmark run of 26 stages. OC'd my card 150mhz over stock, hit's about 51c. RAM and VRM on the bottom of the board is cool to the touch.

Fired up BF3. 45c, Ultra everything 16x/4x, etc, maxed out.

Very impressed with it. My case is so quiet now too. CPU/VRM temps seem a bit cooler too. I think the GPU was just dumping extra heat in the case. Now it's exhausted out.

I can't measure the GPU VRM's, they don't show up, but that heatsink feels cool after playing, so the extra case fans I have blowing under the card is probably helping cool them. Wish the Sapphire design was more to reference though, as the GPU sits more in the middle of the card so the half the G10 fan hangs over nothing, but it fits and my temps are 20-30c lower than what they were before in BF3, so I'm happy.

I have a Seidon 240 for my CPU on an 8320 that doesn't even hit 45c CPU/50c VRM at 4.5ghz,so my rig is pretty cool and quiet. Now I just need new fans throughout it at some point. My rad/case fan's are all miss-matched ones. It's not a big to-do thing though, it's quiet, my case has no window, just bugs me having like 5 different fan types in there. lol.


----------



## falcon26

Does anyone know if the Nzxt X31 lights up? I don't want any type of lighting in my case. I was going to get the H55 for the G10. But I want to mount the RAD in the front and I'm told the H55 will not reach the front of the fractal R4.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Nice choice with the Grid GC Extreme. I had it drop my CPU temps by 2C and my GPU Temps by 4C. Really good stuff


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

The NZXT X31 doesn't have an LED. One thing before you decide you want to mount it in the front of your case. Make sure it is set to exhaust. If you set it to intake it will heat up your other components.


----------



## falcon26

OK another question. My H55 on the CPU is pretty darn quiet. I have looked at reviews for the X31 most mention that it cools great but it is loud, mostly a rattling sound, which my H55 doesn't really make. Are corsair water coolers supposed to be quieter or better built than the nzxt ones like the X31?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> OK another question. My H55 on the CPU is pretty darn quiet. I have looked at reviews for the X31 most mention that it cools great but it is loud, mostly a rattling sound, which my H55 doesn't really make. Are corsair water coolers supposed to be quieter or better built than the nzxt ones like the X31?


What were they saying was causing the rattling? Fan or pump? Fans can easily be replaced with anything you choose. Pumps you are stuck with.


----------



## falcon26

The pump. Also on the X31 it looks like they have 2 3 pin plugs for the pump, why is that? Corsair only has one...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> The pump. Also on the X31 it looks like they have 2 3 pin plugs for the pump, why is that? Corsair only has one...


If there is a general consensus on the pump rattling I would avoid it personally. As for the variation in plugs, probably just part of the engineering design for the pump motor.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

The X31 did have a pump rattling noise, I had to fiddle with the rpm to get it to stop. I would recommend that you go with the H55 and use it as rear exhaust. Then move the other H55 for your CPU to the top of your chassis. The X31 is a good AIO now that I got it to work, but its tube length is too long when used as rear exhaust. Also the CAM software is not good and basically a waste. Dont even bother installing it. Run everything through Fan Xpert


----------



## melodystyle2003

Can i kindly request from a gtx 780 ti owner with g10 + aio, to "Run all tests" on 3mark13 and tell me its higher temperature, while having it oc'ed to the 24/7 gaming clocks?


----------



## falcon26

Yeah I will probably go with the h55


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@melodystyle with a 120mm AIO in push/pull @ 60% fan speed, 100% pump speed, you won't exceed 49C.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @melodystyle2003 with a 120mm AIO in push/pull @ 60% fan speed, 100% pump speed, you won't exceed 49C.


So you are saying about a temperature drop of ~30% (now i have 75oC with 1333/[email protected] and fan curve manually set to 75% (1:1 temp/fan%))?


----------



## falcon26

My friend gave up the g10. With his 780 and the g10 gaming he was getting in the mid 60's which is only a little better then stock...


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> My friend gave up the g10. With his 780 and the g10 gaming he was getting in the mid 60's which is only a little better then stock...


That looks more realistic tbh.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noah3210*
> 
> Sorry for the late reply but it wasn't sparks and smoke it was a bad sata power extension. But I got my stuff installed but my Temps don't look anything like everyone's I tried playing watch dogs at 4k and vrm 1 go to 80c and remember I have those copper heatsinks too. I also have another question could it be possible that what the vram heat up it cause the adhesive on the copper heatsinks to come off? Because I think that's what happening? Sorry this is a first time build. I actually think that I need to give it more airflow it looks too cramped I can attach pictures.


I have the same issue with the heatsinks coming off I haven't had the time to reclean the surface and reapply seuski tape otherwise I would others claim theres are staying on after a good clean surface and a fresh piece of that tape. 80 does seem high so more airflow over the card should help. I wish I had a way of measuring the temps for my VRMS...not sure what they hit nvidea performance says my core sits at 26c-29c idle stays under 40 after heaven benchmark. No clue what my VRMS read...you don't see performance issues when when your VRMS hit 80??


----------



## schoolofmonkey

As you would of seen, I've had this ongoing issue of RAD placement.
Now I was thinking of removing the CPU's H110, whacking on a Noctua NH-D15 and top mounting the GPU's RAD.

I've got a 4790k CPU, its not overclocked,
From what I've seen the NH-D15 does a really good job of cooling the 4790k, very close performance to the H110.

What do you guys think?

@melodystyle2003

I have a ROG GTX780ti Matrix with a Kraken X60 attached using the Kraken control software, fans never go over 60% in a pull configuration, I'm using the 2000RPM Noctua industrial fans.
My temps after running all those tests, plus gaming (all the latest AA titles, I also use Planet Explorers as it uses OpenCL and heats up video cards more than Furmark.) never exceeds 47c.
VRM temps have hit 83c (which is better than the stock cooler of 97/100c).

I'm running a 1200Mhz overclock, and no vram heat sink (vram hits 60c, which is cooler than the stock cooler too).

I noticed you had a little hard time believing the temps, I have posted a lot of screenshots of the temps I've been getting.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> No clue what my VRMS read...you don't see performance issues when when your VRMS hit 80??


VRM's can hit 100c safely, but just not for days on end, around the 80c mark is what the big wigs here recommend (OccamRazor, Skyn3t etc).


----------



## Razzaa

Can anyone recommend some heatsinks for the Vram on my 290? Thanks.


----------



## Noah3210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> I have the same issue with the heatsinks coming off I haven't had the time to reclean the surface and reapply seuski tape otherwise I would others claim theres are staying on after a good clean surface and a fresh piece of that tape. 80 does seem high so more airflow over the card should help. I wish I had a way of measuring the temps for my VRMS...not sure what they hit nvidea performance says my core sits at 26c-29c idle stays under 40 after heaven benchmark. No clue what my VRMS read...you don't see performance issues when when your VRMS hit 80??


its funny but no frams drop. the weird thing is that I am running 2 r9 290s with g10's and h 55s so I shouldnt see any performance hit at 4k @ 30hz but you are using seuski tape to attach to the heatsink to vram? i think I might need something better. also my case is stupidly cramped and it may be also restricting airflow i think that might also be my problem but I gotta admit its alot quieter with the kraken. im using techpower up GPU-z to track the vram temps but my 2nd r 290 tends to go in and out for some reason on the gpu-z if only I had more time to work on this.


----------



## Ultisym

I finally had some time to play with the vram overclock with the heatsinks I placed on them. They have stayed on perfectly however I have only seen a increase in stability of +100. So I am running my memory at 7600 stable and can push 7700 mostly stable. Overall if I had it to do over again I do not think I would even fool with them on the GPUs. Just my opinion based on my testing. Wanted to get that in before I disassemble the system and install the 4790k and Sabertooth Z97 Mark 2 this week.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> As you would of seen, I've had this ongoing issue of RAD placement.
> @melodystyle2003
> 
> I have a ROG GTX780ti Matrix with a Kraken X60 attached using the Kraken control software, fans never go over 60% in a pull configuration, I'm using the 2000RPM Noctua industrial fans.
> My temps after running all those tests, plus gaming (all the latest AA titles, I also use Planet Explorers as it uses OpenCL and heats up video cards more than Furmark.) never exceeds 47c.
> VRM temps have hit 83c (which is better than the stock cooler of 97/100c).
> 
> I'm running a 1200Mhz overclock, and no vram heat sink (vram hits 60c, which is cooler than the stock cooler too).
> 
> I noticed you had a little hard time believing the temps, I have posted a lot of screenshots of the temps I've been getting.
> VRM's can hit 100c safely, but just not for days on end, around the 80c mark is what the big wigs here recommend (OccamRazor, Skyn3t etc).


Haven't noticed your pictures/posts, just did. Good info there, +rep.

I ve never seen over 75oC on power temp (vrm) but i use two 120mm fans on the backplate. Vram max temps were 62oC with 8300mhz. I do have ready the vram heatsinks so will place them when move to aio cooling solution.
Kraken x60 is quite big aio, was thinking for the h55. I guess should add +5-10oC to your readings by using it.
Still looks attractive solution, since it will perform better that the stock cooler (around 20oC less, from 75 to 55oC) and will produce less noise.


----------



## aftayudha

is that nzxt g10 fit for my asus matrix 7970?


----------



## DiceAir

Ok so tell me is it worth installing with my club3d r9 280x royalking crossfire? Will this fit my GPU? My top gpu can get as high as 85C under full load. Not worried about noise. I think 85C is to high and getting this might allow me to bump up the voltage a bit. I was thinking of getting 2 of these with antec khuler 650 which is the cheapest Liquid cooler I can get here in South Africa.

Do i need to get separate vrm heatsink or can I use the stock one that came with the gpu. I was also thinking of getting separate memory heatsinks for my cards.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *melodystyle2003*
> 
> Haven't noticed your pictures/posts, just did. Good info there, +rep.
> 
> I ve never seen over 75oC on power temp (vrm) but i use two 120mm fans on the backplate. Vram max temps were 62oC with 8300mhz. I do have ready the vram heatsinks so will place them when move to aio cooling solution.


Don't know if you're seen the size of a Matrix card, its the same width as a classified, so it has more VRM's with a high power rated compared to standard GTX780ti cards.
Explains my higher temps.
(From Kitguru)
http://www.kitguru.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/DSCF1040.jpg


----------



## FlyingSolo

I have the EVGA GTX 780 SC reference card and wandering what heatsinks to the memory and vrms are needed. If someone can let me know that would be great


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> I have the EVGA GTX 780 SC reference card and wandering what heatsinks to the memory and vrms are needed. If someone can let me know that would be great


Here is everything you need:

2 Packs of Cosmos Copper VGA Heatsinks for VRAM

1 Pack of Cosmos mini Aluminum VGA Heatsinks for VRMs

1 Pack of Sekisui Double-Sided Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape

Optional: Aftermarket Thermal Compound, it often comes with the AIO Cooler, or if you have some already, if not I recommend the Gelid GC-Extreme

Optional: VGA to PWM Fan Adapter So you can connect the G10's 92mm Fan directly to the video card and save a motherboard fan header. Controllable through MSI Afterburner, set it to a constant 85-100% rpm.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Here is everything you need:
> 
> 2 Packs of Cosmos Copper VGA Heatsinks for VRAM
> 
> 1 Pack of Cosmos mini Aluminum VGA Heatsinks for VRMs
> 
> 1 Pack of Sekisui Double-Sided Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape
> 
> Optional: Aftermarket Thermal Compound, it often comes with the AIO Cooler, or if you have some already, if not I recommend the Gelid GC-Extreme
> 
> Optional: VGA to PWM Fan Adapter So you can connect the G10's 92mm Fan directly to the video card and save a motherboard fan header. Controllable through MSI Afterburner, set it to a constant 85-100% rpm.


Thanks a lot +rep. How easy is it to remove the Sekisui Double-Sided Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape from the card if you want to and put it back to stock cooler again. Now i just need to find all these parts in UK


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Here is everything you need:
> 
> 2 Packs of Cosmos Copper VGA Heatsinks for VRAM
> 
> 1 Pack of Cosmos mini Aluminum VGA Heatsinks for VRMs
> 
> 1 Pack of Sekisui Double-Sided Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape
> 
> Optional: Aftermarket Thermal Compound, it often comes with the AIO Cooler, or if you have some already, if not I recommend the Gelid GC-Extreme
> 
> Optional: VGA to PWM Fan Adapter So you can connect the G10's 92mm Fan directly to the video card and save a motherboard fan header. Controllable through MSI Afterburner, set it to a constant 85-100% rpm.


On the first page in Dasboogiemans tips it says
Quote:


> DON'T use Sekisui 5760 for the VRM1 area. This tape has maximum adhesion around
> the 50-60 degree temperature range, 70-80 starts to see a degradation in the bond as the glue becomes less viscous. debonding starts
> to happen at 90-100 degrees over repeated cycles.


Should i still use this for the gtx 780


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> On the first page in Dasboogiemans tips it says
> Should i still use this for the gtx 780


That's crazy I didn't hear about the sekisui tape, a lot have used it and seems to work good.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> That's crazy I didn't hear about the sekisui tape, a lot have used it and seems to work good.


Ok will use it.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> Thanks a lot +rep. How easy is it to remove the Sekisui Double-Sided Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape from the card if you want to and put it back to stock cooler again. Now i just need to find all these parts in UK


It requires a little bit of effort. It is certainly not easy. You have to be gentle yet firm, and the Sekisui tape does a heck of a job. It is a very sticky adhesive. I strongly recommend that you clean both the surface of the VRAM and VRMs and the bottom of the heatsinks. Before using the Sekisui tape, you need to remove the adhesive tape that comes pre-applied to the heatsinks. Isopropyl alcohol is needed. It is time consuming, but if done right, everything will stick without falling, and you can remove it all and send it in for RMA or sell it if necessary.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> It requires a little bit of effort. It is certainly not easy. You have to be gentle yet firm, and the Sekisui tape does a heck of a job. It is a very sticky adhesive. I strongly recommend that you clean both the surface of the VRAM and VRMs and the bottom of the heatsinks. Before using the Sekisui tape, you need to remove the adhesive tape that comes pre-applied to the heatsinks. Isopropyl alcohol is needed. It is time consuming, but if done right, everything will stick without falling, and you can remove it all and send it in for RMA or sell it if necessary.


Thanks for letting me know


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Here is everything you need:
> 
> 2 Packs of Cosmos Copper VGA Heatsinks for VRAM
> 
> 1 Pack of Cosmos mini Aluminum VGA Heatsinks for VRMs
> 
> 1 Pack of Sekisui Double-Sided Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape
> 
> Optional: Aftermarket Thermal Compound, it often comes with the AIO Cooler, or if you have some already, if not I recommend the Gelid GC-Extreme
> 
> Optional: VGA to PWM Fan Adapter So you can connect the G10's 92mm Fan directly to the video card and save a motherboard fan header. Controllable through MSI Afterburner, set it to a constant 85-100% rpm.


Will those Vram heatsinks work on my 290? Thanks. What about enzotech heatsinks?


----------



## pdasterly

im officially out, was fun and if I had to do it all over again I would. Wasted a some cash in the process








great product nzxt, give yourself a pat on the back


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> im officially out, was fun and if I had to do it all over again I would. Wasted a some cash in the process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> great product nzxt, give yourself a pat on the back


Huh


----------



## pdasterly

sold my nzxt brackets, had heatkiller backplate, fujipoly ultra extreme thermal pad, gelid heatsink, copper heatsinks on vram, zalman fan and corsair H75


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> sold my nzxt brackets, had heatkiller backplate, fujipoly ultra extreme thermal pad, gelid heatsink, copper heatsinks on vram, zalman fan and corsair H75


why did you sell everything


----------



## pdasterly

moved on to full water system
waiting for one card from rma, going to pay my friend to re-bend tubes cause i suck at it


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> moved on to full water system
> waiting for one card from rma, going to pay my friend to re-bend tubes cause i suck at it


Its certainly ........colorful







Good luck with your new setup.


----------



## pdasterly

cell camera makes the uv look purple, its probably going to change again, for some reason im never satisfied


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> cell camera makes the uv look purple, its probably going to change again, for some reason im never satisfied


Dope setup, were never satisfied. Eventually I'll have full custom loop. You deff did the full setup, I see GPU, CPU, ram, looks like motherboard also?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Razzaa
I'm not sure if it will work on an R9 290. I don't see why it wouldn't. I would ask someone with a 290 what they used though.


----------



## makn

I have two question about the G10.

1.) What airflow does the fan have?? Cant find it anywhere

2.) If i want to replace the fan with a PWM version, which should i get? (i want to control fanspeed in MSI AFTERBURNER)


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> I have two question about the G10.
> 
> 1.) What airflow does the fan have?? Cant find it anywhere
> 
> 2.) If i want to replace the fan with a PWM version, which should i get? (i want to control fanspeed in MSI AFTERBURNER)


1) I'm not sure on the airflow in CFM, but the included fan does a good job of cooling the VRMs while being nearly silent.

2) I also decided to buy a PWM 92mm fan so I could control it through Afterburner. You will need two things, #1 a VGA to PWM Adapter and a 92mm PWM Fan. I ended up buying a Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm

If you are doing this to an EVGA SC w/ ACX Cooler, you will need a Copper Shim.


----------



## makn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> 1) I'm not sure on the airflow in CFM, but the included fan does a good job of cooling the VRMs while being nearly silent.
> 
> 2) I also decided to buy a PWM 92mm fan so I could control it through Afterburner. You will need two things, #1 a VGA to PWM Adapter and a 92mm PWM Fan. I ended up buying a Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm
> 
> If you are doing this to an EVGA SC w/ ACX Cooler, you will need a Copper Shim.


Thanks !

I really need to know how much air this little whity can move








Odd they havent speced it..


----------



## Fantomau

I'm thinking of getting the g10, but want to make sure it fits my card. evga 770 classified and mount my spare corsair h105 in the front with 4 fans in push/pull if possible (case is a phanteks luxe)

i saw someone use their backplate along with the nzxt plate on top of the backplate, is that hard to do?

i dont OC, so should i still get sinks? if so, which ones should i get?

any help would be appreciated.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> Thanks !
> 
> I really need to know how much air this little whity can move
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Odd they havent speced it..


1500rpm? I can't find a CFM anywhere.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> I'm thinking of getting the g10, but want to make sure it fits my card. evga 770 classified and mount my spare corsair h105 in the front with 4 fans in push/pull if possible (case is a phanteks luxe)
> 
> i saw someone use their backplate along with the nzxt plate on top of the backplate, is that hard to do?
> 
> i dont OC, so should i still get sinks? if so, which ones should i get?
> 
> any help would be appreciated.


Not hard to mount your G10 + EVGA Backplate, all you have to do is thin down the foam pad that comes pre-applied to the G10's backplate. Or you can remove it entirely. You can see I did it with my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler. Carefully thin out the foam pad of the G10's backplate.


I think that your card does not come with a mid-plate installed, so heat sinks would be a good precautionary idea. Just for the VRMs. It will cost you $10 total for Aluminum Heatsinks and Sekisui Thermal Tape.

Optional Extras:

Gelid GC Extreme Thermal Paste This stuff is great, it knocked 4C off of my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler, and 2C off of my CPU.

Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm PWM Fan 2800rpm and 55CFM.


----------



## Fantomau

thanx for the info


----------



## Fantomau

is that a luxe or pro

how did you mount the 3 fans in the middle?

thought about putting my extra h105 up front for push/pull for the g10


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> is that a luxe or pro
> 
> how did you mount the 3 fans in the middle?
> 
> thought about putting my extra h105 up front for push/pull for the g10


Its the Pro. I managed to get 3 fans in the middle by mounting two 120mm fans onto the HDD cages, and then I placed the included Phanteks 140mm fan on top of those two fans, and it fits perfectly. Doesn't need to be secured in any way.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Razzaa
> I'm not sure if it will work on an R9 290. I don't see why it wouldn't. I would ask someone with a 290 what they used though.


Ok thanks anyway. Anyone have a 290 with Vram heatsinks?


----------



## Cysquatch

Yes they will
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Ok thanks anyway. Anyone have a 290 with Vram heatsinks?


Yes those will work good. Do you have the gelid heatsink kit?


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Not hard to mount your G10 + EVGA Backplate, all you have to do is thin down the foam pad that comes pre-applied to the G10's backplate. Or you can remove it entirely. You can see I did it with my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler. Carefully thin out the foam pad of the G10's backplate.
> 
> 
> I think that your card does not come with a mid-plate installed, so heat sinks would be a good precautionary idea. Just for the VRMs. It will cost you $10 total for Aluminum Heatsinks and Sekisui Thermal Tape.
> 
> Optional Extras:
> 
> Gelid GC Extreme Thermal Paste This stuff is great, it knocked 4C off of my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler, and 2C off of my CPU.
> 
> Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm PWM Fan 2800rpm and 55CFM.


.
I have the same case! I love it. By the way that's an awesome looking rig


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Yes they will
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Ok thanks anyway. Anyone have a 290 with Vram heatsinks?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes those will work good. Do you have the gelid heatsink kit?
Click to expand...

Yes i do have the Gelid kit. So the cosmos copper will work on my 290 or should i get the Enzotech ones? Thanks


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> .
> I have the same case! I love it. By the way that's an awesome looking rig


Its the best! The Enthoo Pro/Luxe are the best cases on the market for their respected prices. Thank you, I've spent a lot of time, money and effort on it, always like hearing that others think it looks as good as I do.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Yes i do have the Gelid kit. So the cosmos copper will work on my 290 or should i get the Enzotech ones? Thanks


+

I'd go with the cosmos ones. i believe that you need to trim down the enzotech ones. Just as an fyi theres an aluminum heatsink that comes with the gelid kit you need to use that sink on the chip i circled


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Yes i do have the Gelid kit. So the cosmos copper will work on my 290 or should i get the Enzotech ones? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> +
> 
> I'd go with the cosmos ones. i believe that you need to trim down the enzotech ones. Just as an fyi theres an aluminum heatsink that comes with the gelid kit you need to use that sink on the chip i circled
Click to expand...

I didnt put that on. I thought it was just a single vram heatsink that they randomly threw in there. What is it for?


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> I didnt put that on. I thought it was just a single vram heatsink that they randomly threw in there. What is it for?


The flat part is on it because that area would interfere with your watercooler. So smooth side goes towards the gpu itself


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> I didnt put that on. I thought it was just a single vram heatsink that they randomly threw in there. What is it for?
> 
> 
> 
> The flat part is on it because that area would interfere with your watercooler. So smooth side goes towards the gpu itself
Click to expand...

Ok. Ao it is specifically made to replace a bram heatsink in that spot because other vram heatsinks wouldn't fit? Thanks for the answers and clearing this up.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Ok. Ao it is specifically made to replace a bram heatsink in that spot because other vram heatsinks wouldn't fit? Thanks for the answers and clearing this up.


That is exactly it


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Ok. Ao it is specifically made to replace a bram heatsink in that spot because other vram heatsinks wouldn't fit? Thanks for the answers and clearing this up.
> 
> 
> 
> That is exactly it
Click to expand...

Cool thanks. I just ordered 2 packs of the Cosmos copper heatsinks. They come with Velcro cable ties as well!!!


----------



## Razzaa

Do you guys have your G10 fan pulling heat off the heatsinks or blowing air on them?


----------



## Vendari

blowing on... you'd need some sort of shroud to make the "Pull" orientation work optimally.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Blowing on, absolutely blowing on.


----------



## veirge

I just bought a g10. Now, i'm kinda torn on what AIO to use. I'm thinking of getting either H55/50 or x31. The H55 is cheaper but is the x31 worth the extra bucks temp-wise and reliability?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veirge*
> 
> I just bought a g10. Now, i'm kinda torn on what AIO to use. I'm thinking of getting either H55/50 or x31. The H55 is cheaper but is the x31 worth the extra bucks temp-wise and reliability?


the x31 has longer hoses for larger cases, either will work fine. corsair has 5 year warranty plus they replace your stuff if aio fails and damages something


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veirge*
> 
> I just bought a g10. Now, i'm kinda torn on what AIO to use. I'm thinking of getting either H55/50 or x31. The H55 is cheaper but is the x31 worth the extra bucks temp-wise and reliability?


Only reason to buy an X31 over an H55 is for the longer hoses. If you don't need the longer hoses, go with the H55.


----------



## veirge

Thanks, plus rep to both of you. My case is just CM690, a foot long hose should be enough. My H55 will arrive tomorrow. Another question, is the stock 92mm fan of the g10 enough to cool an R9 290? I have heatsinks for the vrms and vram of the card.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veirge*
> 
> Thanks, plus rep to both of you. My case is just CM690, a foot long hose should be enough. My H55 will arrive tomorrow. Another question, is the stock 92mm fan of the g10 enough to cool an R9 290? I have heatsinks for the vrms and vram of the card.


Ive heard its adequate, i swapped mine out for a noctua for good measure


----------



## mrzoo

Anyone ever have any clearance issues with the gigabyte 990fxa ud3 board in a Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 case when mounting a rad. I'm thinking of getting this case since I can't mount a rad a top in my current case nzxt source 210.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Ive heard its adequate, i swapped mine out for a noctua for good measure


Agreed, The fan thats comes with it is adequate. But for the cost involved there is no reason not to customize it the way you want it. I personally would rather they not have used a white fan, but it ultimately doesn't matter to me. It does the job and is actually pretty quiet.


----------



## DiceAir

Ok so tell me is it worth installing with my club3d r9 280x royalking crossfire? Will this fit my GPU? My top gpu can get as high as 85C under full load. Not worried about noise. I think 85C is to high and getting this might allow me to bump up the voltage a bit. I was thinking of getting 2 of these with antec khuler 650 which is the cheapest Liquid cooler I can get here in South Africa.

Do i need to get separate vrm heatsink or can I use the stock one that came with the gpu. I was also thinking of getting separate memory heatsinks for my cards.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok so tell me is it worth installing with my club3d r9 280x royalking crossfire? Will this fit my GPU? My top gpu can get as high as 85C under full load. Not worried about noise. I think 85C is to high and getting this might allow me to bump up the voltage a bit. I was thinking of getting 2 of these with antec khuler 650 which is the cheapest Liquid cooler I can get here in South Africa.
> 
> Do i need to get separate vrm heatsink or can I use the stock one that came with the gpu. I was also thinking of getting separate memory heatsinks for my cards.


Best i can tell from what little I found on this it appears to be reference. Should work just fine even if the board is not reference. If you have vrm heatsinks from the factory, they will suffice. As for the putting sinks on the VRAM, you can do it but with what testing I have done on my 770s, it is not worth the effort.

85C is to hot for my taste as well, your biggest hurdle to doing this will be having room to place the two AIO radiators inside your case. Im not familiar with your case but the pic I saw of it, it is on the small side. Where are you planning to mount them. Anyway, it can be done on dual GPUs, I did it with fantastic results. So worth it? Hell yes if you can find the space to mount the radiators. I went from both cards hitting near 80C under load to right around 50C under load. After adjusting rpms to make the system quiet, i gained back about 4C. As for over-volting, you would certainly be able to step that up. I just let the boost 2.0 on my kepler chips handle everything and set the gputweak to the factory max voltage of 1.212 and power target of 110%. My boost clocks are just under 1400 now. A nice gain from low to mid 1200s. My memory is at plus 600 as well.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Best i can tell from what little I found on this it appears to be reference. Should work just fine even if the board is not reference. If you have vrm heatsinks from the factory, they will suffice. As for the putting sinks on the VRAM, you can do it but with what testing I have done on my 770s, it is not worth the effort.
> 
> 85C is to hot for my taste as well, your biggest hurdle to doing this will be having room to place the two AIO radiators inside your case. Im not familiar with your case but the pic I saw of it, it is on the small side. Where are you planning to mount them. Anyway, it can be done on dual GPUs, I did it with fantastic results. So worth it? Hell yes if you can find the space to mount the radiators. I went from both cards hitting near 80C under load to right around 50C under load. After adjusting rpms to make the system quiet, i gained back about 4C. As for over-volting, you would certainly be able to step that up. I just let the boost 2.0 on my kepler chips handle everything and set the gputweak to the factory max voltage of 1.212 and power target of 110%. My boost clocks are just under 1400 now. A nice gain from low to mid 1200s. My memory is at plus 600 as well.


nother thing that wories me is that I would need a shim to attach the cooler on the gpu. what do you think?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> nother thing that wories me is that I would need a shim to attach the cooler on the gpu. what do you think?


Even if you do, they are cheap and easy. Though you would have to source one there. Shouldnt be to hard. hre they are under $5. You should be able to use your back plate without issue as well, if the screw heads are larger than the holes in the back plate, I wouldnt even use the nzxt back plate. If you do have to use it, strip the foam pad off it and just use that.


----------



## FlyingSolo

@PinkoTheCommi need some advice. I have only found the Cosmos mini Aluminum VGA Heatsinks for VRMs. But cant find any Cosmos Copper VGA Heatsinks that are the exact size of the ones you have linked. So far i found these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221381852704?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The above link looks the same as the link you gave but the size is different. Will that do. Also found 4 other heatsink on the link below but sure if any of these will work.

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/index.php?keyword=Heatsink&x=0&y=0


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> @PinkoTheCommi need some advice. I have only found the Cosmos mini Aluminum VGA Heatsinks for VRMs. But cant find any Cosmos Copper VGA Heatsinks that are the exact size of the ones you have linked. So far i found these
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221381852704?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> The above link looks the same as the link you gave but the size is different. Will that do. Also found 4 other heatsink on the link below but sure if any of these will work.
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/index.php?keyword=Heatsink&x=0&y=0


the ones in your ebay link will work for you


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> the ones in your ebay link will work for you


Thanks. Then going to order two packs


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> @PinkoTheCommi need some advice. I have only found the Cosmos mini Aluminum VGA Heatsinks for VRMs. But cant find any Cosmos Copper VGA Heatsinks that are the exact size of the ones you have linked. So far i found these
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221381852704?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> The above link looks the same as the link you gave but the size is different. Will that do. Also found 4 other heatsink on the link below but sure if any of these will work.
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/index.php?keyword=Heatsink&x=0&y=0


The first ones from ebay are the exact same that I used. By the way, VRAM cooling is not nearly as necessary as VRM cooling. You could skip out on the VRAM cooling altogether if you like.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The first ones from ebay are the exact same that I used. By the way, VRAM cooling is not nearly as necessary as VRM cooling. You could skip out on the VRAM cooling altogether if you like.


Even if i overclock. Also how easy is it to take of these heatsink


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> Even if i overclock. Also how easy is it to take of these heatsink


Even if you overclock. Remember, the 780 SC comes with a mid-plate that is already passively cooling the VRAM and VRMs. Make sure you buy a copper shim if you intend to keep the mid-plate on. Without a copper shim, you will get high temperatures because the cooler wont make proper contact.

If you use the Sekisui thermal tape, it is stuck on there pretty well. It is not impossible to get off, it just takes a bit of effort.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Even if you overclock. Remember, the 780 SC comes with a mid-plate that is already passively cooling the VRAM and VRMs. Make sure you buy a copper shim if you intend to keep the mid-plate on. Without a copper shim, you will get high temperatures because the cooler wont make proper contact.
> 
> If you use the Sekisui thermal tape, it is stuck on there pretty well. It is not impossible to get off, it just takes a bit of effort.


I have the non ACX version of the GTX 780 SC does that come with the mid-plate. Can you give me the link to the copper shim i need. If i have the mid-plate on my card then there is no reason to buy any heatsink right. Also i bought a evga backplate for my card will i be able to use that.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> If you use the Sekisui thermal tape, it is stuck on there pretty well. It is not impossible to get off, it just takes a bit of effort.


If you heat it with a hair dryer, it should make it MUCH easier to get off.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Cool thanks. I just ordered 2 packs of the Cosmos copper heatsinks. They come with Velcro cable ties as well!!!


Mine also came with velcro cable ties....havent used them yet. LOL


----------



## Bluemustang

Anyone seen the new pic of the reference 980? Can anyone tell me if there are any more areas i need to cover in heatsinks than what I outlined? And the areas in red question marks? Thanks



Also if anyone wouldnt mind taking a look at my thread








http://www.overclock.net/t/1513683/kraken-g10-plus-gtx-980s/0_100#post_22864632

And also whether this design looks like the kraken will fit on it?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Anyone seen the new pic of the reference 980? Can anyone tell me if there are any more areas i need to cover in heatsinks than what I outlined? And the areas in red question marks? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Also if anyone wouldnt mind taking a look at my thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1513683/kraken-g10-plus-gtx-980s/0_100#post_22864632
> 
> And also whether this design looks like the kraken will fit on it?


Do your research on the vendors before you buy, coming into it new, I would make sure the vendor has a vrm heatsink secured with screws optimally. ASUS and gigabyte are pretty good about this, not sure on the others but surely others do as well..

On a side note, 8 mounting holes around the gpu socket. hmmm


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> I have the non ACX version of the GTX 780 SC does that come with the mid-plate. Can you give me the link to the copper shim i need. If i have the mid-plate on my card then there is no reason to buy any heatsink right. Also i bought a evga backplate for my card will i be able to use that.


I can't find a picture of that card's PCB. I don't think it has a midplate though. So you won't need a copper shim. Just in case if you do, this is what it should be: 20mm x 20mm x .8mm

Since your card doesn't come with a mid-plate, VRM cooling is a little more necessary, although it is something you could still skip, just don't ever run Furmark/Kombustor.

Yes, you will be able to use a backplate with it. You will have to thin down the foam pad that comes on the G10's Backplate, or remove it entirely.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I can't find a picture of that card's PCB. I don't think it has a midplate though. So you won't need a copper shim. Just in case if you do, this is what it should be: 20mm x 20mm x .8mm
> 
> Since your card doesn't come with a mid-plate, VRM cooling is a little more necessary, *although it is something you could still skip*, just don't ever run Furmark/Kombustor.
> 
> Yes, you will be able to use a backplate with it. You will have to thin down the foam pad that comes on the G10's Backplate, or remove it entirely.


Is that a good idea? Idk if I'd be comfortable running VRM's without a heat sink. Again I'm not familiar with that line of cards.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Is that a good idea? Idk if I'd be comfortable running VRM's without a heat sink. Again I'm not familiar with that line of cards.


Check this guys post earlier in this thread. Post #1147

He is using an Asus GTX 780Ti. At stock, his temperatures are 86C on the core and 104C on the VRMs @ 1.200v, 1227Mhz, +300 Memory

When he moved to G10 without Heatsinks, his core dropped to 49C and VRMs to 81C. @ 1.212v, 1279Mhz, +300 Memory

The only time when VRMs get too hot are when you use a program like Furmark/Kombustor. This program is a card killer. It killed my GTX 770 Lightning when it was at factory settings, no overclock, working for two weeks perfectly, then BAM, 3 minutes of Kombustor bricked my card.. Do not run Furmark/Kombustor. As long as you are just gaming, you will be perfectly fine.

I am not positive, but I think the Asus Card he used has a mid-plate. So that passively cools the VRMs. If you have a card that doesn't have a mid-plate, you will still get perfectly fine results, but as a precaution, you could add heatsinks.


----------



## asgardthor

I've tried googling this but its all people asking questions and not really answering it, so I'll ask here

I have a asus 680 directcu ii and wonder if the G10 will still work since its not a reference card

I might change the cooling on my cpu to a custom loop and then I can use my H110 on my gpu

any ideas?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asgardthor*
> 
> I have a asus 680 directcu ii and wonder if the G10 will still work since its not a reference card


Yes it'll fit, and you won't need VRM heatsinks because the Direct CU II coolers already have one installed.

If you are going to do a custom loop, why wouldn't you just add you GPU into it?


----------



## BaconMaster77

Hello, I would like to know if there's actually a noticeable difference in terms of noise between a single rad AIO and a double rad one. Thanks in advance.


----------



## asgardthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Yes it'll fit, and you won't need VRM heatsinks because the Direct CU II coolers already have one installed.
> 
> If you are going to do a custom loop, why wouldn't you just add you GPU into it?


I planned to include it in the loop once I replace the gpu and then add a waterblock

thank you for answering my question!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaconMaster77*
> 
> Hello, I would like to know if there's actually a noticeable difference in terms of noise between a single rad AIO and a double rad one. Thanks in advance.


Double radiator AIO????


----------



## aftayudha

did anyone using the G10 for asus 7970 matrix platinum ?
i want buy it if G10 fit for my card


----------



## BaconMaster77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Double radiator AIO????


240mm radiator, sorry.


----------



## slugzkea

Hello all,

Forgive me if I'm unintentionally double posting, but in case no one knew here, the tall H50 can fit the kraken. You just need to shave down the plastic in between the socket joints. I used a kitchen knife.

Doing so got my H50 fitting like a glove


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaconMaster77*
> 
> Hello, I would like to know if there's actually a noticeable difference in terms of noise between a single rad AIO and a double rad one. Thanks in advance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaconMaster77*
> 
> 240mm radiator, sorry.


I would say if you had an h100I or a kraken x60 laying around then go for it. Personally for me I was on a budget so I bought an H55 which is a fairly low end cooler. It took my gpu from throttling at 94C now overclocked to 1050 on the core i dont go much over 60C. So I'm not convinced its worth the extra coin to get a 240 rad.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slugzkea*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Forgive me if I'm unintentionally double posting, but in case no one knew here, the tall H50 can fit the kraken. You just need to shave down the plastic in between the socket joints. I used a kitchen knife.
> 
> Doing so got my H50 fitting like a glove


Awesome find. This will be great for guys who have these old style coolers sitting around


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Yes it'll fit, and you won't need VRM heatsinks because the Direct CU II coolers already have one installed.
> 
> If you are going to do a custom loop, why wouldn't you just add you GPU into it?


+1 no reason not to have both in a custom loop if your gona drop the $$ otherwise you might as well do closed loops on both CPU+GPU....


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slugzkea*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Forgive me if I'm unintentionally double posting, but in case no one knew here, the tall H50 can fit the kraken. You just need to shave down the plastic in between the socket joints. I used a kitchen knife.
> 
> Doing so got my H50 fitting like a glove
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good find thanks for adding this to our discussion!! Well help many out! Hopefully mackattack can add this to the op for others to view I know its been asked before seems like a simple mod to use them old H50s


----------



## mrzoo

You guys think the g10 would fit on the new cards that were released today gtx 980 and 970? I think 970 will be released next month though


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> You guys think the g10 would fit on the new cards that were released today gtx 980 and 970? I think 970 will be released next month though


By the looks of it yes, but if no one else has tried by next week I'll give it a go.
Shame the reference cooler's heat sink is once piece, means you can't use the VRM heat sink from it.

But from what I'm seeing the VRM's are a lot cooler anyway..


----------



## MEC-777

That's one great thing about these new high-end GPUs being released as of late - they're pushing for much better power efficiency which translates into less heat being produced (and cooler VRMs).









Curious to see how AMD's 290/290X replacements will stack up against the new 980/970... The GPU wars are getting very interesting...


----------



## mrzoo

I hope it does fit and being that these new cards have back plates even better for cooling. Benchmark are not that much higher at stock compared to an oc'd 780ti let's see how these new cards run being oc'd and water cooled can't wait to get mine


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I can't find a picture of that card's PCB. I don't think it has a midplate though. So you won't need a copper shim. Just in case if you do, this is what it should be: 20mm x 20mm x .8mm
> 
> Since your card doesn't come with a mid-plate, VRM cooling is a little more necessary, although it is something you could still skip, just don't ever run Furmark/Kombustor.
> 
> Yes, you will be able to use a backplate with it. You will have to thin down the foam pad that comes on the G10's Backplate, or remove it entirely.


Thanks. Just waiting for the G10 to arrive from amazon. Amazon should have the black ones in stock on the 25th


----------



## DiceAir

Ok so I asked club3d about my r9 280x. They told me they use reference PCB so anything I would need to make this fit? Before I go out and buy this bracket will i get lower temps when removing the backplate from this card?


----------



## Chargeit

Hey, do these guys work on Asus DCUii 780's? I know they're not reference PCB. I have two of them in sli, and the top one it burning up badly.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hey, do these guys work on Asus DCUii 780's? I know they're not reference PCB. I have two of them in sli, and the top one it burning up badly.


Yep fit perfectly, plus you already have the Direct CU II vrm heatsink attached..


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Yep fit perfectly, plus you already have the Direct CU II vrm heatsink attached..


Thanks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok so I asked club3d about my r9 280x. They told me they use reference PCB so anything I would need to make this fit? Before I go out and buy this bracket will i get lower temps when removing the backplate from this card?


You should need nothing more than whats in the kit, other than cleaning supplies. Do not remove your factory back plate! As i mentioned earlier, if the screw heads are larger than the holes on your plate, and they should be, you do not even need to use the nzxt back plate. If they are smaller, or if you just really want to use the nzxt plate too, use the nzxt back plate but remove the foam padding from it. Other than that, installation is a breeze, you will be done with installation on the gpu in a half hour. Be sure to have some alcohol and swabs to clean the existing tim off of the gpu. Be sure to clean it well.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hey, do these guys work on Asus DCUii 780's? I know they're not reference PCB. I have two of them in sli, and the top one it burning up badly.


No issues at all on my SLI 770 Direct CUII cards. Have to get a little creative placing radiators for both but if you have the space in your case and a plan, you should be good


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I have the space.



*I did remove the plastic cover from the top one, after noticing it in that pic.









I've seen pics of people using this case and mounting the radiators as front intakes. Kind of sucks, man those DCUii coolers look nice stacked with that large window. I'm kind of bummed that the "Corsair air 540" doesn't have the airflow to keep these cool. There is a dead spot I noticed when I opened the case towards the rear where there is no airflow. My top GPU gets very, very, hot there.


----------



## PCGameFan

Thinking about doing a custom mod for my 780Ti Classy to keep the VRM/VRAM heatspreader on. I would need to cut the tabs around the GPU off of the spreader to be able to mount the cooler. How do you think this would effect the resale value of the card?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I have the space.
> 
> 
> 
> *I did remove the plastic cover from the top one, after noticing it in that pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen pics of people using this case and mounting the radiators as front intakes.


You REALLY want to mount the gpu radiators with the fans exhausting. You are going to be amazed at how much heat will be coming out of those radiators.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, exhaust would be optimal. There really isn't a proper way for me to do that though.

I read where someone with the same case did what I'm thinking of doing. From what he said, it worked out well as long as you can remove the heat from the case.

I'm weighing my options. What I'm leaning towards is just moving to a case with a large fan (140mm+) on the side, 200mm preferred.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, exhaust would be optimal. There really isn't a proper way for me to do that though.
> 
> I read where someone with the same case did what I'm thinking of doing. From what he said, it worked out well as long as you can remove the heat from the case.
> 
> I'm weighing my options. What I'm leaning towards is just moving to a case with a large fan (140mm+) on the side, 200mm preferred.


There is no question it can be done, and you would see a reduction in overall temps. But it is far far from optimal. My SLI setup can change the temp in the back bedroom and subsequently the hallway by a degree or 2 and activate the AC in 20 minutes or less when im gaming. You really do not want that heat in your case if you can at all avoid it. If your thinking of another case, surely you can find something you like with a mount in the appropriate location to exhaust your GPU radiator.


----------



## Chargeit

Well, the point of the new case would be to solve the overheating issue. I wouldn't add two of these if I got a new case, assuming that solved my heat issue.

Of course, one thing leads to another. I'm having trouble finding cases that have what I need, and will fit my H100i cooler... Always something.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You should need nothing more than whats in the kit, other than cleaning supplies. Do not remove your factory back plate! As i mentioned earlier, if the screw heads are larger than the holes on your plate, and they should be, you do not even need to use the nzxt back plate. If they are smaller, or if you just really want to use the nzxt plate too, use the nzxt back plate but remove the foam padding from it. Other than that, installation is a breeze, you will be done with installation on the gpu in a half hour. Be sure to have some alcohol and swabs to clean the existing tim off of the gpu. Be sure to clean it well.


Sorry for asking again. You say I don't need a shim for my GPU? if so I'm getting this asap


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Sorry for asking again. You say I don't need a shim for my GPU? if so I'm getting this asap


There should not be a problem with the G-10 fitting any reference design 280X.

However, I have never played with that GPU as they are not sold in the states that I am aware of. Still I can not guarantee you that one would not be needed. Still, even if a shim does indeed end up being required,they are extremely simple to install and cheap (<$5 here).


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> There should not be a problem with the G-10 fitting any reference design 280X.
> 
> However, I have never played with that GPU as they are not sold in the states that I am aware of. Still I can not guarantee you that one would not be needed. Still, even if a shim does indeed end up being required,they are extremely simple to install and cheap (<$5 here).


So just another question. Will the antec kuhler 650 fit with the bracket?


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So just another question. Will the antec kuhler 650 fit with the bracket?


Check the site http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html

No.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> Check the site http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html
> 
> No.


Thanks

Will the thermaltake water 3.0. I'm running a corsair air 540. Do you think the tubing will be long enough to reach the front of the case?

was thinking of getting the following for the memory just to be sure

http://titan-ice.co.za/titan-ice-vga-ram-heat-sinks-10-pack.html

or

http://titan-ice.co.za/vizo-cps12-copper-heat-sinks-for-chipsets-ram.html

or

http://titan-ice.co.za/jetart-aluminum-alloy-ram-heat-sinks-8-pack.html


----------



## LeSwede

Does any one know if Kraken G10 fits on a XFX Radeon HD7770 Ghz Edition?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> Thinking about doing a custom mod for my 780Ti Classy to keep the VRM/VRAM heatspreader on. I would need to cut the tabs around the GPU off of the spreader to be able to mount the cooler. How do you think this would effect the resale value of the card?


Just buy a copper shim.
20mm x 20mm x .8mm

If you deface the mid-plate, it voids your warranty, and I don't think resale value would be that high either. Copper shim it, I did it to my 780, and it works perfect.


----------



## falcon26

When you have 2 h55 installed. One on the CPU and one on the GPU if you have them both as intakes wouldn't that dump tons of hot air in your case?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeSwede*
> 
> Does any one know if Kraken G10 fits on a XFX Radeon HD7770 Ghz Edition?


Give us a photo of the card installed in your system then maybe they can better assist also try contacting XFX

On to my issue. This bracket is such a cool idea just 3 things making me worried.

1. I may need a shim (I know they inexpensive)

2. Memory can maybe run a bit hot

3. VRM running hot.

If they just fix these 3 issues I will buy this thing for sure but now I have to search around.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeSwede*
> 
> Does any one know if Kraken G10 fits on a XFX Radeon HD7770 Ghz Edition?


Yes, bit overkill but it will.
Be careful installing it though, there is nothing stopping you from over tightening the mounts:

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/AMD/HD_7770/images/front.jpg


----------



## richie_2010

it wont fit a 7770 the core holes are to small.
the only way a aio would fit on that is a custom made mount or


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> it wont fit a 7770 the core holes are to small.
> the only way a aio would fit on that is a custom made mount or


No you're right, just saw that it skips the HD7770, it will fit a HD6770 and a HD7870.

MY bad..


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> Thinking about doing a custom mod for my 780Ti Classy to keep the VRM/VRAM heatspreader on. I would need to cut the tabs around the GPU off of the spreader to be able to mount the cooler. How do you think this would effect the resale value of the card?


I would say if you were going to sell the card sell it with the g10+ liquid cooler and throw in the stock cooler. Should be fine but as all used stuff you'll never get what you want out of it...


----------



## falcon26

I have all my drive cages removed from my fractal R4. I am pretty close to ordering the G10 and a H55. It looks like it might just make it to the front of my case. My GTX 780 Ti got to 80C yesterday which I found really annoying.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Give us a photo of the card installed in your system then maybe they can better assist also try contacting XFX
> 
> On to my issue. This bracket is such a cool idea just 3 things making me worried.
> 
> 1. I may need a shim (I know they inexpensive)
> 
> 2. Memory can maybe run a bit hot
> 
> 3. VRM running hot.
> 
> If they just fix these 3 issues I will buy this thing for sure but now I have to search around.


1.The shim is easy, im almost positive you wont need it.

2.Memory is a non issue, the fan and bracket will have plenty of airflow to perform AT LEAST as well as your factory cooler. I put memory heatsinks on mine and there was no significant difference in temperature or performance of the memory.

3. Your card already has a vrm heatsink unless im mistaken, that combined with the fan is more than enough to do the job.

However, if you are not comfortable doing any modification, you are absolutely doing the right thing to hold off until such time as you are comfortable doing it.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I have all my drive cages removed from my fractal R4. I am pretty close to ordering the G10 and a H55. It looks like it might just make it to the front of my case. My GTX 780 Ti got to 80C yesterday which I found really annoying.


Yeah 80C is where both my 770s were hovering before I did the mod. Even though thats well within design limits, its just way hotter than it should be to me. Also with the boost 2.0 controlling power and clock speeds, cooler is obviously faster.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> 1.The shim is easy, im almost positive you wont need it.
> 
> 2.Memory is a non issue, the fan and bracket will have plenty of airflow to perform AT LEAST as well as your factory cooler. I put memory heatsinks on mine and there was no significant difference in temperature or performance of the memory.
> 
> 3. Your card already has a vrm heatsink unless im mistaken, that combined with the fan is more than enough to do the job.
> 
> However, if you are not comfortable doing any modification, you are absolutely doing the right thing to hold off until such time as you are comfortable doing it.


At least it comes with vrm heatsink so I can leave that on. Also the other thing is here in South Africa the bracket translate to about $90. That's absurd. I will contact nzxt and maybe they can assist me. I will also check the armor store. There it's $30

http://store.nzxt.com/Kraken-G10-GPU-Bracket-Black-p/rl-krg10-b1.htm

So if I can get it there and import it should be a lot cheaper


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> At least it comes with vrm heatsink so I can leave that on. Also the other thing is here in South Africa the bracket translate to about $90. That's absurd. I will contact nzxt and maybe they can assist me. I will also check the armor store. There it's $30
> 
> http://store.nzxt.com/Kraken-G10-GPU-Bracket-Black-p/rl-krg10-b1.htm
> 
> So if I can get it there and import it should be a lot cheaper


Its insane how badly the prices get jacked up down there.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Its insane how badly the prices get jacked up down there.


Yes and then the Nvidia gtx 980 here is about $900 - $1000 here.

BTW this is a picture of my pcb


----------



## falcon26

I went ahead and ordered the g10 with the H 55 hopefully I'll get some good results


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> Thinking about doing a custom mod for my 780Ti Classy to keep the VRM/VRAM heatspreader on. I would need to cut the tabs around the GPU off of the spreader to be able to mount the cooler. How do you think this would effect the resale value of the card?
> 
> 
> 
> Just buy a copper shim.
> 20mm x 20mm x .8mm
> 
> If you deface the mid-plate, it voids your warranty, and I don't think resale value would be that high either. Copper shim it, I did it to my 780, and it works perfect.
Click to expand...

Ah great call. Just ordered some and some smaller ones for my laptop.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Anyone think you can fit a G10 bracket on the Gigabyte GTX 970 G1


----------



## maynard14

huhu loving the h440 but temps are horrible

im already using h105 on my 290x, push pull, blowing air to the case

but look at my temps they are horrible:

ill try reversing my fan placement


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> huhu loving the h440 but temps are horrible
> 
> im already using h105 on my 290x, push pull, blowing air to the case
> 
> but look at my temps they are horrible:
> 
> ill try reversing my fan placement


you definitely want to run it exhaust, as rads running off GPU's get crazy hot exhaust air temps. your ambient case temps will drop significantly post reversal of fans and hopefully thatll help your temps a few degrees.

if not then id say that a reseat of the cooler may be needed.


----------



## maynard14

still hot sir, even at diff fan position, i think h440 really not good at cooling the r9 290x and my room temp is about 32 c so maybe thats a factor too,.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> still hot sir, even at diff fan position, i think h440 really not good at cooling the r9 290x and my room temp is about 32 c so maybe thats a factor too,.


if you take the top and front off, what are your temps?


----------



## mrzoo

Anyone try the gtx 980 or gtx 970 with g10 I really hope it fits.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> Anyone think you can fit a G10 bracket on the Gigabyte GTX 970 G1


G-10 should work fine. You will have to take the vrm heat sink off the fan half and attach it with screws in the existing holes. If their is no back plate make sure the screws you use to attach the vrm cooler to the card use a non conducting washer. But should be easy enough.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Yes and then the Nvidia gtx 980 here is about $900 - $1000 here.
> 
> BTW this is a picture of my pcb


Those black squares by gpu, ate they mounted to the pcb or rubber? What?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> G-10 should work fine. You will have to take the vrm heat sink off the fan half and attach it with screws in the existing holes. If their is no back plate make sure the screws you use to attach the vrm cooler to the card use a non conducting washer. But should be easy enough.


Thanks. Yeah this comes with a back plate


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Those black squares by gpu, ate they mounted to the pcb or rubber? What?


I don't know


----------



## NIbrok

Long time lurker, first time poster. Regarding the G10 with a 980, there is a comment over on reddit.com that claims it does indeed work, have a look here!!! I just ordered the G10 to use with my old Corsair H105 on the EVGA Superclocked GTX 980.


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Those black squares by gpu, ate they mounted to the pcb or rubber? What?


They look exactly like those sponge things you use to prevent vibration. Probably easily come off, but might leave some adhesive behind.


----------



## NexusRed

Hey everyone! Just installed a Kraken G1+ H70 core with Sp120 performance onto my MSI 280x Twin Frozr. Idle performance is about 30c but my gaming temps playing BF4 is almost 80c!! I have the h70 pulling air from the bottom of my Midi R2. Can anyone help me trouble shoot? Could be possible that the fan isn't getting enough air to push.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NexusRed*
> 
> Hey everyone! Just installed a Kraken G1+ H70 core with Sp120 performance onto my MSI 280x Twin Frozr. Idle performance is about 30c but my gaming temps playing BF4 is almost 80c!! I have the h70 pulling air from the bottom of my Midi R2. Can anyone help me trouble shoot? Could be possible that the fan isn't getting enough air to push.


mounting issue


----------



## NexusRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> mounting issue


Can you expand on that? The h70 is secured right to GPU. If it was a mounting issue then why are my idles much lower then stock?


----------



## pdasterly

search this thread its a common problem


----------



## NexusRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> search this thread its a common problem


Lol I'm not new at this friend. I searches this thread before asking. My question is, why is my idle temps lower then stock cooling, but higher under load? I've already remounted and repasted 3 times to make sure. Wanted to get some other ideas before I just go buy a x61 for more surface area cooling.


----------



## Vendari

your AIO might have a bubble issue...


----------



## RocketAbyss

You have it mounted incorrectly or your AIO might have a problem. Remounting it 3 times doesnt mean youre mounting it correctly on all 3 times. Are you tightening the screws in a cross pattern?


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NexusRed*
> 
> Hey everyone! Just installed a Kraken G1+ H70 core with Sp120 performance onto my MSI 280x Twin Frozr. Idle performance is about 30c but my gaming temps playing BF4 is almost 80c!! I have the h70 pulling air from the bottom of my Midi R2. Can anyone help me trouble shoot? Could be possible that the fan isn't getting enough air to push.


I have the same setup (but with GTX 780 Ti) and case. My Corsair H55 is bottom intake not exhaust, push/pull config with SP120 Performance Editions. Max gpu temp on 100% fan speed is 42C.

I would suggest to switch to pull.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@NexusRed

Maybe your model needs a copper shim? Maybe the pump is not at a high enough speed?

Also, make sure your radiator fan for the GPU is set to exhaust.


----------



## NexusRed

Hey everyone,

Thanks for the suggestions. Most of these I've already done (tighten down fully in cross pattern all 3 remounting times, different fan and radiator orientation, running fan and pump at max, verifying GPU has full contact with more then enough paste). I believe that the h70 is now on its way out the door.

I was a little confused ad to why my idle temps were lower then stock cooling and my load temps higher then stock. Low idle proves that the mounting was correct and GPU has full contact with block. After a 30min session on BF4, I realized that my H70 pump, tubing, and radiator core were ridiculously hot. This leads me to believe that the H70 itself is faulty and will be replaced with a H55 since it has had so much success with the G10.

Thanks to all who gave the suggestions and I'll give you an update/post pics when its all sorted!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Well I now can't be a member, I've packed up the GTX780ti Matrix for shipping, and am now awaiting my new Gigabyte GTX980 Gaming G1.
Hopefully I can use the G10 on it, but by the sounds of it the die is smaller, I can only wait and see.

It's been fun playing with the G10 and would recommend it to anyone.

@NexusRed

You'll find any RAD and tubing is going to get VERY hot, hotter than a cpu AIO RAD.
This is normal, its because the Pump is making direct contact with the GPU die, this means there's a lot more heat being transferred into the water.

How have you got the H70's pump plugged in?
The best way is directly to 12v with a molex to fan connector, then you know the pump is running at full speed.
Also speed up your fans more, see is that helps.


----------



## NexusRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Well I now can't be a member, I've packed up the GTX780ti Matrix for shipping, and am now awaiting my new Gigabyte GTX980 Gaming G1.
> Hopefully I can use the G10 on it, but by the sounds of it the die is smaller, I can only wait and see.
> 
> It's been fun playing with the G10 and would recommend it to anyone.
> 
> @NexusRed
> 
> You'll find any RAD and tubing is going to get VERY hot, hotter than a cpu AIO RAD.
> This is normal, its because the Pump is making direct contact with the GPU die, this means there's a lot more heat being transferred into the water.
> 
> How have you got the H70's pump plugged in?
> The best way is directly to 12v with a molex to fan connector, then you know the pump is running at full speed.
> Also speed up your fans more, see is that helps.


Thanks for the suggestion. I've got both Sp120 and pump hooked up to my Bitfenix Recon and both are running max. Same issue. H70 is failing. No biggy. Will replace.


----------



## NIbrok

It looks as though the G10 does indeed fit on a GTX 980 without a backplate, confirmed here by NZXT, http://www.reddit.com/r/NZXT/comments/2h0xgd/g10_gtx_970_compatibility/

I should have my EVGA Superclocked GTX 980 tomorrow or Thursday and I'll have a go at it.

Here is a quote:
Quote:


> *NZXT-xD3aDPooLxSource* 530/H440 2 points 19 hours ago
> 
> Well, I know without the backplate it works.
> 
> With the backplate, I will need to have the card on hand for fitment testing.
> 
> Sorry I shouldnt have typed that without reading it. too much jager isnt always a good thing.


----------



## Rusty Toast

I have a similar situation as nexusred, recently put a g10 plus. H55 on my 290x. It idles around 35-38 C but under load like in games such as sleeping dogs it goes up to 70 - 78 degrees... Ive also remounted several times. .

I have the vram and memory heatsinks. . From these last few posts maybe it has something to do with the amount of air in my H55? It gurgles quite a bit.. Especially after moving it, but dies off after a min.

I've also got my h55 plugged into a chassis fan spot on my mother board.

Could these things cause the problems? And would plugging the h55 in with a molex really make that big a difference?


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rusty Toast*
> 
> I have a similar situation as nexusred, recently put a g10 plus. H55 on my 290x. It idles around 35-38 C but under load like in games such as sleeping dogs it goes up to 70 - 78 degrees... Ive also remounted several times. .
> 
> I have the vram and memory heatsinks. . From these last few posts maybe it has something to do with the amount of air in my H55? It gurgles quite a bit.. Especially after moving it, but dies off after a min.
> 
> I've also got my h55 plugged into a chassis fan spot on my mother board.
> 
> Could these things cause the problems? And would plugging the h55 in with a molex really make that big a difference?


get some fan control software and turn your pump fan header up to 100% and that will basically give you the same result as a molex plug in (in theory and usually in practice). ill be interested to see your outcomes as im interested in putting the G10 with an X31/H55/Water 3.0 Performer on my R9 290 in my M1 but i have reservations in terms of how my temps will be in a small case.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Looks like i wont be able to put the G10 bracket on the Gigabyte G1 970. Because the VRM are in the back as you will see in the pic.

the top pic is 980 and the bottom pic is 970 that i should have by tomorrow.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> Looks like i wont be able to put the G10 bracket on the Gigabyte G1 970. Because the VRM are in the back as you will see in the pic.
> 
> the top pic is 980 and the bottom pic is 970 that i should have by tomorrow.


Perhaps the new corsair g-10 copy will serve your purposes


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Perhaps the new corsair g-10 copy will serve your purposes


Maybe but i highly doubt it that they will come out with it. But i can be wrong tho.


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rusty Toast*
> 
> I have a similar situation as nexusred, recently put a g10 plus. H55 on my 290x. It idles around 35-38 C but under load like in games such as sleeping dogs it goes up to 70 - 78 degrees... Ive also remounted several times. .
> 
> I have the vram and memory heatsinks. . From these last few posts maybe it has something to do with the amount of air in my H55? It gurgles quite a bit.. Especially after moving it, but dies off after a min.
> 
> I've also got my h55 plugged into a chassis fan spot on my mother board.


Rusty, you should be seeing much lower temps.

I have two 290x with h55's. Both of my h55's gurgle sometimes (rare, but yes). When I hear it I immediately check temps in afterburner and never once have seen a spike. Suggest to take the radiator out and jiggle it around a bit, not violently, of course, doubtful it will help much but you never know.

Both of my cards idle temp around 32-33C and very max, 4+ hours of gaming should be around 63/64C with fans barely audible in the most demanding games (sleeping dogs, thief, etc). In the average game I'm around 53-55C (again after hours and hours). Both cards maintain core temps within 1C of each other. VRM's on the other hand very greatly on the top card (higher). Ambient room temp is 24-25C.

Here's my post with my setup;
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/1480#post_22831267

I've obviously had great results with this setup.

What are your ambient temps and do you have a backplate? Also, did you torque using the top right / bottom left / top left / bottom right method? The way I torqued the H55 down on the G10 was literally one full twist in that pattern until everything was fully torqued, takes a few minutes but consistent method.

Edit: If you're using the case fan pwm connectors on the mobo (I am), make sure your fan profile curve is 100% across the entire curve. Not sure what mobo you have.


----------



## falcon26

Installing my G10 tomorrow. Should I set the RAD as intake or exhaust?


----------



## LeSwede

Could anyone share the different sizes of the mounting holes on the back plate? Im curious about something


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Installing my G10 tomorrow. Should I set the RAD as intake or exhaust?


Exhaust


----------



## falcon26

I will use the g10 as a exhaust and my other h55 on my CPU as an intake. What other fan should I have? A top exhaust or intake perhaps?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I will use the g10 as a exhaust and my other h55 on my CPU as an intake. What other fan should I have? A top exhaust or intake perhaps?


Why not exhaust both aio coolers and then use additional fans to cool case(intake near bottom, exhaust from top)


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I will use the g10 as a exhaust and my other h55 on my CPU as an intake. What other fan should I have? A top exhaust or intake perhaps?


As pdastery said, you should exhaust. My AIO radiators on my GPUs (h55's) have reached 50C before. You want that blowing directly into the case?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> 1.The shim is easy, im almost positive you wont need it.
> 
> 2.Memory is a non issue, the fan and bracket will have plenty of airflow to perform AT LEAST as well as your factory cooler. I put memory heatsinks on mine and there was no significant difference in temperature or performance of the memory.
> 
> 3. Your card already has a vrm heatsink unless im mistaken, that combined with the fan is more than enough to do the job.
> 
> However, if you are not comfortable doing any modification, you are absolutely doing the right thing to hold off until such time as you are comfortable doing it.


Ok so i asked NZXT and EK and they told me I would need a shim. So do you still think I should go for this cooler without a shim. Shipping it to here is going to be a bit expensive


----------



## gopackersjt

The beast lives again! Mostly... That's my r9 290x with the G10 on it.


----------



## Rusty Toast

Hey guys, thanks for the reponses and suggestions. Im going to try out these things and ill report back here!


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> huhu loving the h440 but temps are horrible
> 
> im already using h105 on my 290x, push pull, blowing air to the case
> 
> but look at my temps they are horrible:
> 
> ill try reversing my fan placement
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


One word:

DOPE


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopackersjt*
> 
> The beast lives again! Mostly... That's my r9 290x with the G10 on it.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


He lives! LOL Awesome whats on the top Red BackPlate??


----------



## gopackersjt

It's a brace I made to keep the pcb from flexing. But my cpu is a little screwed up, but I start my new job at Micro Center on Monday, so I'll be getting a new cpu soon!


----------



## riad

Hey guys, i need some help, i'm planning on doing a build with my titans and 2 g10's but the main issue i have is the adhesive tape for the heatsinks for the VRM and VRAM. I've tried ordering the http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pcs-Genuine-SEKISUI-5760-Double-Sided-Adhesive-Thermal-Heatsink-Tape-1-x-6-/271530851426?pt=US_Thermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item3f387ffc62 but after a LONG delay and mixup the seller decided to refund me and just ignore my attempts to buy anymore. I'm not from the US and i have to use a forwarding company to get anything to my country ( Caribbean )

Is there any other alternative on AMAZON you guys can recommend? Please no thermal mix, i don't think i want this to be absolutely permanent on my Titans. Thanks in advance for all the help.


----------



## falcon26

Well I got the G10 installed on my 780 Ti. Couple of things.

1. It will not mount in the front.
2. It will not mount t on the top. Only has holes for 140MM fans not 120MM
3. Had to mount it in the bottom. And then my PSU is so closed to the holes that I can only put 2 screws in the RAD the others will not line up because of the power cables coming out of the PSU. Which really sucks.
4. Seems louder than air cooling.
5. Yes better temps,

stock temp idle : 42
Stock temp load: 80

G10 idle: 32
G10 load: 55

Don't really know what to do. I like a clean neat case quiet case. With the G10 now its messy as hell and cluttered and certainly louder. Just not sure what to do. Yes the drop in temps is awesome but everything that comes with that sucks....


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Well I got the G10 installed on my 780 Ti. Couple of things.
> 
> 1. It will not mount in the front.
> 2. It will not mount t on the top. Only has holes for 140MM fans not 120MM
> 3. Had to mount it in the bottom. And then my PSU is so closed to the holes that I can only put 2 screws in the RAD the others will not line up because of the power cables coming out of the PSU. Which really sucks.
> 4. Seems louder than air cooling.
> 5. Yes better temps,
> 
> stock temp idle : 42
> Stock temp load: 80
> 
> G10 idle: 32
> G10 load: 55
> 
> Don't really know what to do. I like a clean neat case quiet case. With the G10 now its messy as hell and cluttered and certainly louder. Just not sure what to do. Yes the drop in temps is awesome but everything that comes with that sucks....


compatibility is entirely up to the AIO you're using, not the G10 itself


----------



## shfwn

any people here who using r9 290 with g10? I just want to know are there any problems/issues arise? I'm planing to use g10 along with H55 for my 290 but still in consideration.
I really appreciate if you give me some advises or tips. Cheers!


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shfwn*
> 
> any people here who using r9 290 with g10? I just want to know are there any problems/issues arise? I'm planing to use g10 along with H55 for my 290 but still in consideration.
> I really appreciate if you give me some advises or tips. Cheers!


works great with r9 2xx, are you planning to overclock?
get some fujipoly ultra extreme


----------



## shfwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> works great with r9 2xx, are you planning to overclock?
> get some fujipoly ultra extreme


any black screen? whats your max temp during high load? how about VRM cooling? I'm dying to ask this, sorry about that.


----------



## pdasterly

black screen is memory error, i used h75(max core temp 62, furmark)
vrm1 needs as much attention as you can give if you want to overclock

Both cards have zalman shark fin gelid heatsinks, fujipoly ultra extreme and heatkiller backplate
running tri-x oc bios on reference cards


----------



## RocketAbyss

Am currently running R9 290X with the G10 + Water 3.0 Performer from TT(Basically the same asetek cooler as H55 etc.) Temps are great, with the core averaging about 55c-58c under heavy load.
VRM Cooling I bought the GELID 290X VRM Heatsink kit and temps are well within acceptable range even after OC; at about 65C-75C for both VRMs


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RocketAbyss*
> 
> Am currently running R9 290X with the G10 + Water 3.0 Performer from TT(Basically the same asetek cooler as H55 etc.) Temps are great, with the core averaging about 55c-58c under heavy load.
> VRM Cooling I bought the GELID 290X VRM Heatsink kit and temps are well within acceptable range even after OC; at about 65C-75C for both VRMs


any chance of some pics? this is just about what im looking to do with my r9 290. also have you got a link to the products youve mentioned?....getting slightly odd things like vrm heatsinks can be hard as hell in Australia. also how much slot space does the TT Water 3.0 Performer pump head take up? im trying to work out if its less than 2 slots - otherwise the fitting in my case may be tight.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> any chance of some pics? this is just about what im looking to do with my r9 290. also have you got a link to the products youve mentioned?....getting slightly odd things like vrm heatsinks can be hard as hell in Australia. also how much slot space does the TT Water 3.0 Performer pump head take up? im trying to work out if its less than 2 slots - otherwise the fitting in my case may be tight.


I have not installed that TT Water 3.0 but I have installed a pair of H-90son my 770s and various other AIOs on several other GPUs. I have not seen one yet where the pump stuck out past the g-10 bracket edge which is two slot.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Please forgive me if someone has already posted this.

The Kraken G10 is compatible with the GTX980 and 970 reference cards

Taken from the spec page on NZXT's website:
Quote:


> Compatibility
> Nvidia : GTX 980, 970, 780 Ti, 780, 770, 760, Titan, 680, 670, 660Ti, 660, 580, 570, 560Ti, 560, 560SE
> AMD : R9 290X*, 290*, 280X**, 280**, 270X, 270 HD7970**, 7950**, 7870, 7850, 6970, 6950, 6870, 6850, 6790, 6770, 5870, 5850, 5830


http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html#

Now all we need is VRM heat sinks or some one of checking VRM temps to see how effective it is on the GTX980.


----------



## Mariuszz

Thanks to the great information in this thread I did this mod on my Titan Black, temperature on core has dropped from 80 degrees to a little over 50 in game









Used aluminium heatsinks for the vrm's and so far no problems with the card.


----------



## Creyios

I'm pretty impressed by the cooling power of this G10 & H90 combo I bought. I have them on a GTX 780 Classified and I'm running it 1241MHz on the GPU / 1782 Memory @ 1.212V atm with GPU reaching mid 50's after long gaming sessions and VRM has gone to max 52C. I had to remove the midplate to make H90 fit on the GPU and I put some Enzotech copper heatsinks on the VRAM & VRM. I have the H90 as exhaust in the bottom fan slot in my Define R3 since NH-D15 on the CPU takes so much space I can't really put it anywhere else. With the ACX cooler the 780 was getting to 74C and on hot days it would get to 80C and throttle. VRM Temps are better too, with ACX cooler VRM temp got to low 60s



Temperatures after 1½ rounds of BF4


----------



## Rusty Toast

I'm back to report my results! I'd followed the advice of others here in this thread regarding torquing the screws properly and in a pattern, adjusted the thermal paste, increased the chasis fan port where the H55 is plugged in to 100%, and tried having the H55 powered directly with a molex adapter.

I did see some minor drops in temps, idle is now around 37-40 degrees C, Load temps are around 60-66 degrees C.
Ambient temp is about 20-23 degrees.

Not as low as some of the other similar set ups but I guess ill have take what i can get, especially after remounting multiple times hahaha... maybe ill try corsair's hg10...

Other than higher temps than expected, i'd say it's still worth it.. 60-66 is still pretty good, and this set up is much more quiet than the stock fan

My system setup:

4690k
H100i
Gryphon z97
XFX r9 290x (gelid vram heatsinks)
H55


----------



## Creyios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rusty Toast*
> 
> I'm back to report my results! I'd followed the advice of others here in this thread regarding torquing the screws properly and in a pattern, adjusted the thermal paste, increased the chasis fan port where the H55 is plugged in to 100%, and tried having the H55 powered directly with a molex adapter.
> 
> I did see some minor drops in temps, idle is now around 37-40 degrees C, Load temps are around 60-66 degrees C.
> Ambient temp is about 20-23 degrees.
> 
> Not as low as some of the other similar set ups but I guess ill have take what i can get, especially after remounting multiple times hahaha... maybe ill try corsair's hg10...
> 
> Other than higher temps than expected, i'd say it's still worth it.. 60-66 is still pretty good, and this set up is much more quiet than the stock fan
> 
> My system setup:
> 
> 4690k
> H100i
> Gryphon z97
> XFX r9 290x (gelid vram heatsinks)
> H55


Are you sure you have enough thermal paste applied and the screws are tight enough? My GPU idles @ 22-25C depending on the ambient temp. Are there any heatsinks that are touching the G10 bracket and preventing you from tightening enough?


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rusty Toast*
> 
> I did see some minor drops in temps, idle is now around 37-40 degrees C, Load temps are around 60-66 degrees C.
> Ambient temp is about 20-23 degrees.


Those load temps are much better! I wouldn't worry too much about idle temps. Its the load temps you need to worry about most. From what I've seen/read, anything under 70c at load is good on our cards with an AIO and I would be happy. A 290x won't throttle itself until 95C so I think you're good.

I would link to a discussion on 290x temps with our exact setup (G10 with H55) on another forum, but I'm not sure about OC.net's linking policy. Let me know if you want the link and I'll PM you.

By the way, what were you using to get your temps up?

I think my idle and load temps are outside of the norm for our cards (better) from everything I've read. But I'm also using a rare GPU (HiS) and have yet to find any discussion on my cards with AIOs for comparison.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Creyios*
> 
> Are you sure you have enough thermal paste applied and the screws are tight enough? My GPU idles @ 22-25C depending on the ambient temp. Are there any heatsinks that are touching the G10 bracket and preventing you from tightening enough?


I haven't seen anyone with idle temps like that on a 290x outside of using a custom loop. What card and AIO do you have?


----------



## Creyios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k3mist*
> 
> Those load temps are much better! I wouldn't worry too much about idle temps. Its the load temps you need to worry about most. From what I've seen/read, anything under 70c at load is good on our cards with an AIO and I would be happy. A 290x won't throttle itself until 95C so I think you're good.
> 
> I would link to a discussion on 290x temps with our exact setup (G10 with H55) on another forum, but I'm not sure about OC.net's linking policy. Let me know if you want the link and I'll PM you.
> 
> By the way, what were you using to get your temps up?
> 
> I think my idle and load temps are outside of the norm for our cards (better) from everything I've read. But I'm also using a rare GPU (HiS) and have yet to find any discussion on my cards with AIOs for comparison.
> I haven't seen anyone with idle temps like that on a 290x outside of using a ustom loop. What card and AIO do you have?


I have a 780 Classified with H90 but I don't think a R9 290X is supposed have almost double idle temp. Even with the air cooler the 780 idled at 30-32C.


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Creyios*
> 
> I have a 780 Classified with H90 but I don't think a R9 290X is supposed have almost double idle temp. Even with the air cooler the 780 idled at 30-32C.


For us 290x owners heat is an issue. If he's seeing 37C idle, he's about 5C less than reference. And based on what I've read his temps (idle and load) are about the norm with an AIO.

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/10/23/amd_radeon_r9_290x_video_card_review/15


----------



## Creyios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k3mist*
> 
> For us 290x owners heat is an issue. If he's seeing 37C idle, he's about 5C less than reference. And based on what I've read his temps (idle and load) are about the norm with an AIO.
> 
> http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/10/23/amd_radeon_r9_290x_video_card_review/15


I know the heat & noise issues with 290X reference cooler and the temperatures he gets with AIO are a great improvement over that







I just remembered I would have seen 290s with load temperatures on high 50s in this thread so his temperatures just seemed a little on the high side. I might remember it wrong.


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Creyios*
> 
> I know the heat & noise issues with 290X reference cooler and the temperatures he gets with AIO are a great improvement over that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just remembered I would have seen 290s with load temperatures on high 50s in this thread so his temperatures just seemed a little on the high side. I might remember it wrong.


If I turn my radiator fans on max, I can get down to about 57/58C which might be what others were reporting on. But no thanks on noise level. Also, I'm not using the corsair fans, but some antecs which have higher CFM at lower DBs. I doubt they are optimal as radiator fans but my temps are good.

I'm at 63-64 after a few hours of Thief with the radiator fans barely audible in push. This is only a couple C less than his max. And with all the unknown variables... I personally would be just fine with his temps, not thrilled, but there's room to safely OC there.

He definitely had a mounting issue. In one of his previous posts he was seeing 70-78C. So for him to hit 66 tops with a better mounting procedure he's gotta be a lot happier at this point.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k3mist*
> 
> If I turn my radiator fans on max, I can get down to about 57/58C which might be what others were reporting on. But no thanks on noise level. Also, I'm not using the corsair fans, but some antecs which have higher CFM at lower DBs. I doubt they are optimal as radiator fans but my temps are good.
> 
> I'm at 63-64 after a few hours of Thief with the radiator fans barely audible in push. This is only a couple C less than his max. And with all the unknown variables... I personally would be just fine with his temps, not thrilled, but there's room to safely OC there.
> 
> He definitely had a mounting issue. In one of his previous posts he was seeing 70-78C. So for him to hit 66 tops with a better mounting procedure he's gotta be a lot happier at this point.


Get some Static Pressure optimized fans. mm/H20 is the metric used.

I recommend some Cooler Master Blade Master 120mms. They are inexpensive, $8.65 each, and have the highest mm/H20 out of any consumer grade 120mm fan. You won't be disappointed.
I'm not sure if this is entirely the problem, but it is at least part of it. Using air flow fans on a radiator doesn't "work" the way it is supposed to.


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Get some Static Pressure optimized fans. mm/H20 is the metric used.
> 
> I recommend some Cooler Master Blade Master 120mms. They are inexpensive, $8.65 each, and have the highest mm/H20 out of any consumer grade 120mm fan. You won't be disappointed.
> I'm not sure if this is entirely the problem, but it is at least part of it. Using air flow fans on a radiator doesn't "work" the way it is supposed to.


Thanks for the advice. I've been planning on getting 4 of these bad boys, SP on them is incredible, but the Antecs have been more than suffice so far. Holding out on doing anything until I decide if I'm going to jump the gun and go with a custom loop or not.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23411/fan-1304/Aerocool_DS_120mm_x_25mm_Dead_Silent_Cooling_LED_Fan_-_Red.html?tl=g36c331s518


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k3mist*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I've been planning on getting 4 of these bad boys, SP on them is incredible, but the Antecs have been more than suffice so far. Holding out on doing anything until I decide if I'm going to jump the gun and go with a custom loop or not.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23411/fan-1304/Aerocool_DS_120mm_x_25mm_Dead_Silent_Cooling_LED_Fan_-_Red.html?tl=g36c331s518


I actually just bought two of those fans, except the white versions. They aren't very good....

The LEDs on them flicker, and if they are running at anything less than 1200rpm they make a bad noise.

They look incredible though, no denying that.

Really though, get the Cooler Master Blade Master 120's. They are easily the best performing SP fans when you factor in the price. At high RPMs they do get loud, but at around 1200-1600rpm they are incredibly quiet and do one heck of a job.

I use two of them on my X31 in push/pull on a 780, and I never exceed 49C, but I am mostly in the 42-46C range with fans at 1250rpm and pump at 90%.


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I actually just bought two of those fans, except the white versions. They aren't very good....
> 
> The LEDs on them flicker, and if they are running at anything less than 1200rpm they make a bad noise.


Possible you got a bad batch? I've read great things about them, specifically here;

http://www.overclock.net/t/1463138/kitguru-aerocool-ds-dead-silence-fan-120mm-and-140mm

and this post from a tester;

http://www.overclock.net/t/1463138/kitguru-aerocool-ds-dead-silence-fan-120mm-and-140mm/150#post_21965429

Edit: This guy also had some good info and pretty extreme testing with success
http://www.overclock.net/t/1463138/kitguru-aerocool-ds-dead-silence-fan-120mm-and-140mm/270#post_22353615


----------



## falcon26

OK got my g10 installed and looking nice and tidy. I put the h55 on my CPU on the top and the h55 on my 780 in the rear. I have the top one set as intake for the CPU and the rear as an exhaust for my 780 ti. If I add say a front fan should that be exhaust or intake? Right now with just the 2 fans attached to the rads I am getting like 28 idle on the GPU and about 48 load. The CPU is like 28 idle and 45 load. Pretty nice...


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

are these heatsinks likely to be a viable option with a g10 on a R9 290 reference board?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24256

they are the only ones i can get from a reliable source in Australia without resorting to ebay.com.au for goods from asia (dicey at best). i feel like they may be too tall to manage on some of the vrms...

would it be worth my while sourcing myself a gelid 290 heatsink pack?


----------



## Rusty Toast

Hey K3mist, I wouldn't mind checking out that thread if you have the link









And you're right much happier after mounting it better and making sure the pump is running at 100%









I have my fans 50% and are set to spin up a little when under load. I'm using a Noctua Nf p12 on my H55+g10 and I have some Be quiet Purewings 2 that I'm testing out on the H100i. The Be Quiet fans are a little quieter than my gentle Typhoons were but not as good, so I might switch back... eventually

Oh and I'm using Corsair Link, Gpuz and the catalyst panel to check temps.

Also for VRM heatsinks, i have the Gelid ones which i think is worth it, they also stay stuck on a lot better than some other heat sinks i had.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

just took the plunge on a H55/G10 combo, with some thermal pads, the Gelid 290 heatsink pack and some alphacool heatsinks as back up.

ill be interested to see how it all goes in my Ncase M1 with it. pics will follow for sure


----------



## schoolofmonkey

The moment I get the confirmation from Asus on removing my stock GTX980 cooler and not voiding warranty, I'm going to give the Kraken G10/X60 combo a try again.

Still worried about the VRM's not having any form of heat sink on them though.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> The moment I get the confirmation from Asus on removing my stock GTX980 cooler and not voiding warranty, I'm going to give the Kraken G10/X60 combo a try again.
> 
> Still worried about the VRM's not having any form of heat sink on them though.


Does ASUS have a sort of agreement with NZXT?

More than not, I think it's usually a case-by-case basis.

Although if you do have to RMA, you can put the stock cooler back on assuming there's no damage.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Does ASUS have a sort of agreement with NZXT?
> 
> More than not, I think it's usually a case-by-case basis.
> 
> Although if you do have to RMA, you can put the stock cooler back on assuming there's no damage.


Asus put these stupid stickers on the screws of the heat sink, so if they are broken warranty can be classed as void.
They gave me the all clear to remove the ROG Matrix cooler and still maintain warranty.
Just heard back and its ok with them to remove the GTX980's cooler too.

It's more of just having it in writing from Asus so if there is a true hardware fault the retail store can't deny warranty on the spot for not having the sticker on the screw.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Asus put these stupid stickers on the screws of the heat sink, so if they are broken warranty can be classed as void.
> They gave me the all clear to remove the ROG Matrix cooler and still maintain warranty.
> Just heard back and its ok with them to remove the GTX980's cooler too.
> 
> It's more of just having it in writing from Asus so if there is a true hardware fault the retail store can't deny warranty on the spot for not having the sticker on the screw.


Yep sounds like a great thing to do.

If anyone was interested in the MSI 970, I've been told by MSI Geno that it will be a case-by-case basis when it comes to water cooling.

They'll evaluate any damage or flaws to see if it was their hardware or not.

Direct quote here for reference:
Quote:


> Our stance on an aftermarket cooling unit on the GPU is that we do not want our customers to modify/work on the card.
> However, if you have an issue with the card, and you ship it back with the original heatsink on, you will be okay.
> We will look at the issue and determine the root cause.
> if it was in fact due to the aftermarket work, we will not grant the RMA.
> If the issue lies with something unrelated to the modification, we will grant it! biggrin.gif


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephimports*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus reference 290
> NZXT Kraken G10
> Zalman CNPS20LQ
> Gelid VRM kit
> Aluminum ram heatsink set
> Fans on silent.


what size are these aluminium heatsinks? im planning to do the same on my 290 but cant find good info on what size/height heatsinks i need to fit around the g10 bracket.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Please forgive me if someone has already posted this.
> 
> The Kraken G10 is compatible with the GTX980 and 970 reference cards
> 
> Taken from the spec page on NZXT's website:
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html#
> 
> Now all we need is VRM heat sinks or some one of checking VRM temps to see how effective it is on the GTX980.


Might as well go with a water block if you get a reference card. The EVGA 970 SSC has a VRMS heatsink. Not sure about any others been looking to get a evga one...


----------



## sch010

Is there any significant advantage in using a 240/280mm AIO on a 290x, as opposed to a cheaper 120mm unit like an H55? Obviously a full custom loop would benefit from having more rad area, but I don't know if the weaker pump in an AIO would be able to take advantage of it in this application.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Might as well go with a water block if you get a reference card. The EVGA 970 SSC has a VRMS heatsink. Not sure about any others been looking to get a evga one...


I was looking at ekwb's configurator the other day and EVGA is most definitely listed there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sch010*
> 
> Is there any significant advantage in using a 240/280mm AIO on a 290x, as opposed to a cheaper 120mm unit like an H55? Obviously a full custom loop would benefit from having more rad area, but I don't know if the weaker pump in an AIO would be able to take advantage of it in this application.


I assume single GPU only?

If that's the case, a 240mm + rad will be overkill IMO.

I've been keeping up with the G10 owner's thread and with a H50, people get 50 - 60 C at 100%, nothing above that.

I think the AIO will have no issue with a 240mm if you go that route.


----------



## Chita Gonza

We need to get an NZXT rep to check this thread out. There is already some valuable data they could take into account for a second version of the G10 (assuming they make one).


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sch010*
> 
> Is there any significant advantage in using a 240/280mm AIO on a 290x, as opposed to a cheaper 120mm unit like an H55? Obviously a full custom loop would benefit from having more rad area, but I don't know if the weaker pump in an AIO would be able to take advantage of it in this application.


A 120 is more than enough.. 240/280 is completely overkill in my opinion on a single 290x. If you go Crossfire, you would want a 240, but I haven't seen any AIO's with dual mounts or I would have got one so I'm using two H55s. But for custom loop, 240 would be needed at minimum.


----------



## falcon26

Wit my setup of rear h55 on my 780 and top h55 on my cpu would putting a front fan be better as a intake or exhaust? I have my rear as exhaust now and top as intake...


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Wit my setup of rear h55 on my 780 and top h55 on my cpu would putting a front fan be better as a intake or exhaust? I have my rear as exhaust now and top as intake...


Have both of your radiators set to exhaust, and the fans in the front of your case as intakes.


----------



## WilliamS34

I am thinking of installing a kraken g10 on my galaxy gtx 760, howvever, it has a short PCB, and I am wondering if this would cause any problems with the VRM cooling. The official NZXT page says that it should be fine but i'm not so sure. Has anyone here got a g10 on a short PCB that can shed any light on this?

My GTX760 http://www.mwave.com.au/product/galaxy-geforce-gtx-760-2gb-video-card-ab50416

P.S The first page of this thread states that there are 3 colours that the g10 can come in, but I found a website that sells a blue version
http://www.cplonline.com.au/nzxt-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket-blue-rl-krg10-u1.html


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WilliamS34*
> 
> I am thinking of installing a kraken g10 on my galaxy gtx 760, howvever, it has a short PCB, and I am wondering if this would cause any problems with the VRM cooling. The official NZXT page says that it should be fine but i'm not so sure. Has anyone here got a g10 on a short PCB that can shed any light on this?
> 
> My GTX760 http://www.mwave.com.au/product/galaxy-geforce-gtx-760-2gb-video-card-ab50416
> 
> P.S The first page of this thread states that there are 3 colours that the g10 can come in, but I found a website that sells a blue version
> http://www.cplonline.com.au/nzxt-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket-blue-rl-krg10-u1.html


honestly, that card doesn't need the g10 other than to say im cool.
You can paint bracket any color you want, hell why not even slap a coat of rhino liner or plasti-dip would look awesome too. I had the black but once installed wish I had gotten the red, system changed up constantly so nothing is the same color for me. The black looks too plain and doesn't blend well with other components in system


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> honestly, that card doesn't need the g10 other than to say im cool


I agree with that.
Just picked up a Gigabyte GTX970 Gaming G1, temps never go over 60c, so I won't be needing to put my G10 on this card.
On the Matrix I did, temps would hit 82c..

That's not to say when the second GTX970 get's here the top card might need the G10, I'll just have to wait and see.
Oh, Gigabyte stopped putting warranty stickers on the heat sink screws


----------



## WilliamS34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> honestly, that card doesn't need the g10 other than to say im cool.


It hits 85C in BF4 with a noisy as **** fan and downclocks from 1228 to ~1100 GPU clock


----------



## pdasterly

i say go for it, the bracket is $40 shipped and a aio cooler can be had for $30 if you shop around. so the investment is minimum at least


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WilliamS34*
> 
> I am thinking of installing a kraken g10 on my galaxy gtx 760, howvever, it has a short PCB, and I am wondering if this would cause any problems with the VRM cooling. The official NZXT page says that it should be fine but i'm not so sure. Has anyone here got a g10 on a short PCB that can shed any light on this?
> 
> My GTX760 http://www.mwave.com.au/product/galaxy-geforce-gtx-760-2gb-video-card-ab50416
> 
> P.S The first page of this thread states that there are 3 colours that the g10 can come in, but I found a website that sells a blue version
> http://www.cplonline.com.au/nzxt-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket-blue-rl-krg10-u1.html


i saw a review of the g10 where the reviewer used a short pcb GTX 670 and i believe he had some vrm heat issues


----------



## curly haired boy

benchies take my 660 up to throttle temps pretty fast, so i'm definitely going to watercool WHATEVER card i get next. i never want to have throttling, games or otherwise. holding out for big maxwell...


----------



## WilliamS34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> i saw a review of the g10 where the reviewer used a short pcb GTX 670 and i believe he had some vrm heat issues


I found the answer finally, it's a bit of a *** was galaxy thinking moment. The VRM's on the short board are on the wrong side of the GPU die for the 92mm fan on the G10 to have any effect.

Large PCB with VRM's to the right of the die.



Short PCB with VRM's on the left of the die.



The only sort-of-not-really-good news is that I can see between the shroud of my current air cooler and the SLI finger to see that the VRM's do have an aluminium heatsink on them, which means the g10 could be installed if you removed the 92mm fan from the G10 and custom mounted it (or a 120mm) on the other side of the GPU.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WilliamS34*
> 
> I found the answer finally, it's a bit of a *** was galaxy thinking moment. The VRM's on the short board are on the wrong side of the GPU die for the 92mm fan on the G10 to have any effect.
> 
> Large PCB with VRM's to the right of the die.
> 
> 
> 
> Short PCB with VRM's on the left of the die.
> 
> 
> 
> The only sort-of-not-really-good news is that I can see between the shroud of my current air cooler and the SLI finger to see that the VRM's do have an aluminium heatsink on them, which means the g10 could be installed if you removed the 92mm fan from the G10 and custom mounted it (or a 120mm) on the other side of the GPU.


My Sapphire 7870 is like that too. VRM's are on the left of the die, half the ram has a heatsink and the other half is barely covered by the fan and the rest of the fan just blows up into nothing since the die is so far down the card/ Still cools my card good, so I'm happy. Been thinking of ways to mod it better though. lol.


----------



## WilliamS34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> My Sapphire 7870 is like that too. VRM's are on the left of the die, half the ram has a heatsink and the other half is barely covered by the fan and the rest of the fan just blows up into nothing since the die is so far down the card/ Still cools my card good, so I'm happy. Been thinking of ways to mod it better though. lol.


I'm thinking of mounting the kraken g10 on my GPU but without the 92mm fan, just leave the rest of the bracket there to add some more red colour to my case. Then take the 92mm fan, glue the PCI connector from an old sound card to the fan, then I can mount the 92mm fan in the PCI slot under my graphics card, blowing air directly up onto my VRM heatsink


----------



## shfwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> black screen is memory error, i used h75(max core temp 62, furmark)
> vrm1 needs as much attention as you can give if you want to overclock
> 
> Both cards have zalman shark fin gelid heatsinks, fujipoly ultra extreme and heatkiller backplate
> running tri-x oc bios on reference cards


hey you seems to know regarding black screen issue.. could help me with mine?

here my specs:
i5-4670
cpu cooler: CM evo 212
mobo: asus b85m-3
ram 8gb Ares G.skill (2x4gb)
gigabyte windforce r9 290
kraken g10 + corsair H55
PSU: FSP Aurum S 550w
SSD 250GB Samsung 840 Evo + WD Green 2TB
windows 7 Pro 64x

sometimes i got BSOD, I really appreciate it if you help through this. Cheers


----------



## pdasterly

are you overcloked?


----------



## WilliamS34

Anyone know if a G10 can be mounted on a GTX 970 or 980?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WilliamS34*
> 
> Anyone know if a G10 can be mounted on a GTX 970 or 980?


There should be a lot more info in the upcoming few weeks on this. I think A couple have done it and their info is several pages back. But there should be a wealth of info on the 900 series pretty soon.


----------



## richie_2010

the core holes are in the same locations so i dont see any issues with it fitting


----------



## Vendari

check the NZXT website. they updated the G10 compatibility list.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Oh, Gigabyte stopped putting warranty stickers on the heat sink screws


My 770 didn't have the stickers either


----------



## quick1unc

The 970's are all different sizes, only a few are actually called a reference card since nvidia didn't supply a reference board to manufacturers. The ability to put the G10 on a 970 will most likely vary by card since they seem to have components in different places and use different size boards across the versions. My 970's will be here Tuesday so I may try to test and see how the G10 would fit it.


----------



## WilliamS34

I'm thinking of upgrading my rig to make it very quiet at idle, but i'm worried about the 92mm fan running at 1500 rpm being noisy at idle.

Can anyone tell me their experience of the noise from the 92mm fan?


----------



## falcon26

I am a silence freak myself. And I can tell you the 92mm fan at idle or load is very very quiet. No worries their...


----------



## WilliamS34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I am a silence freak myself. And I can tell you the 92mm fan at idle or load is very very quiet. No worries their...


Thanks for the info


----------



## shfwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> are you overcloked?


nope, everything is in stock setting


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shfwn*
> 
> nope, everything is in stock setting


black screen usually caused by memory overclocked too far


----------



## shfwn

any idea why is it happening to me? btw, black screen only happened whenever I'm playing BF4.


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shfwn*
> 
> any idea why is it happening to me? btw, black screen only happened whenever I'm playing BF4.


I would then try clean driver install.
Run DDU, then boot into safe mode and delete generic display drivers in device manager. Re-install latest drivers


----------



## markob53

Thinking of purchasing this today along with a H55.

But i have a question, will i need a copper shim for my MSI Gaming 780 ti?


----------



## falcon26

No. I have that exact card and nothing gets in the way of the G10 and the H55 when mounting. It actually works great because you get to leave on your memory and vrm heat plate as well.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> No. I have that exact card and nothing gets in the way of the G10 and the H55 when mounting. It actually works great because you get to leave on your memory and vrm heat plate as well.


Brilliant, good to know. Seeing some good results?

My concern with modding the MSI 780 Ti is removing the the good twin frozr cooler and heatsink and replacing it with a water block and single fan, i simply need to reduce my temps. Getting 70c running kombuster with auto fan speed, which is too loud so i'm getting closer to 80c with the fan set at 50%.

Also i noticed you were saying it was noisy compared to fan cooling, what was noisy about it? I know my H100i pump makes a light humming noise, was it the pump making the noise or the fans?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Anyone put one on a GTX980 yet...??
I'm worried about VRM temps as you can't monitor them.


----------



## falcon26

Load temps are about 50-55 idle is about 30. It was noisy because the fans I used were to loud. I changed them and now its fine...


----------



## DiceAir

So what do you guys suggest for my r9 280x. Shoudl i go h55 or h75. I like the slim rad of the h75 but the h55 is a bit cheaper. i have the air 540 and will mount it in front of the case. I also like the fact that you get 2 fans with a pwm splitter cable. I currently have the h100i for my cpu and that's fairly quiet. I can also replace the fans with some cougar vortex pwm i have lying around.

I was just wondering if it's worth spending the extra amount and get 2x h75 and save me the hassle into getting a fan controller and then having to get splitter cables and so on. The slim rad will make it easier to fit it in a push pull config. This will almost make all my fans the same with only 1x cougar at the very bottom in the front. So What do you guys think?

Oh before i forget if I get the h55 I can then get hold of some cougar fans for free to have that as push pull as well. I can also get the Thermaltake water 3.0 performer. price on that is just a little bit more than the h55 but still way cheaper than the h75.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So what do you guys suggest for my r9 280x. Shoudl i go h55 or h75. I like the slim rad of the h75 but the h55 is a bit cheaper. i have the air 540 and will mount it in front of the case. I also like the fact that you get 2 fans with a pwm splitter cable. I currently have the h100i for my cpu and that's fairly quiet. I can also replace the fans with some cougar vortex pwm i have lying around.
> 
> I was just wondering if it's worth spending the extra amount and get 2x h75 and save me the hassle into getting a fan controller and then having to get splitter cables and so on. The slim rad will make it easier to fit it in a push pull config. This will almost make all my fans the same with only 1x cougar at the very bottom in the front. So What do you guys think?
> 
> Oh before i forget if I get the h55 I can then get hold of some cougar fans for free to have that as push pull as well. I can also get the Thermaltake water 3.0 performer. price on that is just a little bit more than the h55 but still way cheaper than the h75.


I have an H55 to my 780 Ti with max gpu core temps of 46C. Gotta put the extra savings on the little things.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> I have an H55 to my 780 Ti with max gpu core temps of 46C. Gotta put the extra savings on the little things.


So you say h55 should be enough? I believe my r9 280x runs hotter than your 780ti. I know amd cards runs hotter than Nvidia


----------



## Vendari

if you put an SP120 or similarly performing static pressure fan on the H55 it will perform better than the H75


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> if you put an SP120 or similarly performing static pressure fan on the H55 it will perform better than the H75


The cougar fans that i have is rated for 2.2mmH2O so it's relatively good. I will be doing a push pull config.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> if you put an SP120 or similarly performing static pressure fan on the H55 it will perform better than the H75


no, the fans that come with it are static pressure fans


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> I have an H55 to my 780 Ti with max gpu core temps of 46C. Gotta put the extra savings on the little things.


What speed is the fan on the card running at to achieve those temps?


----------



## Vendari

The h75 has a thinner rad and two static pressure optimized fans.... I've tested and installed one on a client's gtx 680. I have an H55 on my GTX 680sc (which i think is just the same) and I have just one SP120 PWM attached to it. I get 5 degrees cooler temps on average on the same tests (valley 1.0 and heaven 4.0) ...


----------



## krusty50

Finally installed my G10 on my Club3D R9 290 RoyalKings. While their dual-fan custom cooler is much better than a stock 290 I still wasn't pleased with the noise under load.

I was somewhat scared because I emailed their support team a few weeks ago and they told me that their PCB was a custom design but everything ended up fitting just fine.

To my surprise the VRMs already had heatsinks installed that are visually similar to the Gelid ones + the VRAM modules also had some flat silver looking ramsinks. I decided to leave everything on as I didn't know how much of an upgrade I'd get from the gelid set + ebay ramsinks.

Room Temp: 23-24C

Idle: 36C

After 20mins of Valley:
61C load
62C VRM1
65C VRM2

Quite pleased with the results, it's setup as a rear exhaust so I'm guessing it might be why my temps are slightly higher than others on OCN. (I've got an H100 setup as a front intake for my CPU)

The cooler I used with the G10 is an AMD FX OEM watercooler. It's basically a rebadged Antec Kuhler 920. (49mm thick) I got it used and the pump is making a little noise so I might replace it with something like an H55.

Anyone knows if I should expect a huge rise in temps from switching to a slimmer rad? (49mm Antec 920 vs 27mm Corsair H55)

Thanks!


----------



## Xel_Naga

I've got the g10 installed on an EVGA SC 980, Have no way of checking VoltREG temps or memory temps. I ordered some of those little copper heatsinks for the memory but one has already fallen off. do we really need them?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xel_Naga*
> 
> I've got the g10 installed on an EVGA SC 980, Have no way of checking VoltREG temps or memory temps. I ordered some of those little copper heatsinks for the memory but one has already fallen off. do we really need them?


Not for the memory, I had a G10 on my GTX780ti Matrix, the memory never went over 60c, so I'm assuming they are cooler on the GTX980's.
VRM's are another story, there's no real way of checking them with software yet...
This is what's putting my off using the G10/x60 combo on my GTX980...


----------



## wgizmo

Any one did G10 on GTX 970?


----------



## irreversible

Hello! Does anyone have any experince fitting a nzxt kraken g10 on a Asus gtx 680 4gb,is it possible even ? What kind of cooler do you suggest to keep the temperature low and the same time as silent as possible?


Thanks!


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krusty50*
> 
> Anyone knows if I should expect a huge rise in temps from switching to a slimmer rad? (49mm Antec 920 vs 27mm Corsair H55)
> 
> Thanks!


I get roughly the same temps as you in Valley on both h55's on my 290x's. What matters most is air flow on the radiator. I keep my fans barely audible. If I turn them on max I can get my core temps down to 57-58C. But the fans I currently have are not radiator fans. I have jetflow 120's on the way and hoping these provide better temps at lower speeds.


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shfwn*
> 
> any idea why is it happening to me? btw, black screen only happened whenever I'm playing BF4.


There are bunch of reasons. It was supposed to be resolved in a driver update, but some people are still getting them.

The biggest possibility, and I noticed from your first post, your card has Elpdia VRAM and a lot of people get black screens with that memory.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1441349/290-290x-black-screen-poll

I would recommend posting in that thread to get further help.

Edit: Make sure to read the first post. A lot of people seem to have resolved their issue by turning off UEFI in BIOS and running in Legacy.


----------



## mizifih

*Hey guys!*

I'm thinking about mod my Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 OC 3GB (GV-R797OC-3GD) with a NZXT Kraken G10. I am getting high temps even with all the air inside the case (Corsair Carbide Air 540R Arctic White) being used only by the VGA, since I'm already using water cooling for my CPU (i7-4770K + Corsair H100i).

Also, one of the fans is making a strange noise, a ticking, so I sense that I'll need to replace it soon anyways. So yeah, I'm actually not thinking, I'm doing it (by the end of the year, probably)!

Anyways, I was wondering if you guys could tell me, from the experience you had, what would I need to proceed with this. I thought about the NZXT Kraken X41 Cooler to go with the G10, NZXT says they go well together, but I don't know much about anything else. I mean, I know nothing! It's my first mod. I know I'll need Heatsinks; Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape or maybe Thermal Glue --- I don't know what's best; Thermal Compound --- or maybe the X41 already come with Thermal Compound applied; VGA to PWM Fan Adapter --- I really don't know what's under the hood of my VGA; and Shims --- I really don't have a clue about this one.

I couldn't find my VGA listed on that spreadsheet on OP, maybe one of those is similar or identical to mine, I don't know.

I was advised at LinusTechTips Forums to post this question here. That made a lot of sense, right?

*My stuff:*
Corsair Carbide Air 540R Arctic White
Corsair TX-650W
ASUS Z87M-PLUS
i7-4770K + Corsair H100i
Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 OC 3GB 384-bit (GV-R797OC-3GD)

*I hope you guys can help me, that someone here have the same VGA that I have and got it working but didn't submitted to the spreadsheet.
Thank ya'll!*


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizifih*
> 
> *Hey guys!*
> 
> I'm thinking about mod my Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 OC 3GB (GV-R797OC-3GD) with a NZXT Kraken G10. I am getting high temps even with all the air inside the case (Corsair Carbide Air 540R Arctic White) being used only by the VGA, since I'm already using water cooling for my CPU (i7-4770K + Corsair H100i).
> 
> Also, one of the fans is making a strange noise, a ticking, so I sense that I'll need to replace it soon anyways. So yeah, I'm actually not thinking, I'm doing it (by the end of the year, probably)!
> 
> Anyways, I was wondering if you guys could tell me, from the experience you had, what would I need to proceed with this. I thought about the NZXT Kraken X41 Cooler to go with the G10, NZXT says they go well together, but I don't know much about anything else. I mean, I know nothing! It's my first mod. I know I'll need Heatsinks; Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape or maybe Thermal Glue --- I don't know what's best; Thermal Compound --- or maybe the X41 already come with Thermal Compound applied; VGA to PWM Fan Adapter --- I really don't know what's under the hood of my VGA; and Shims --- I really don't have a clue about this one.
> 
> I couldn't find my VGA listed on that spreadsheet on OP, maybe one of those is similar or identical to mine, I don't know.
> 
> I was advised at LinusTechTips Forums to post this question here. That made a lot of sense, right?
> 
> *My stuff:*
> Corsair Carbide Air 540R Arctic White
> Corsair TX-650W
> ASUS Z87M-PLUS
> i7-4770K + Corsair H100i
> Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 OC 3GB 384-bit (GV-R797OC-3GD)
> 
> *I hope you guys can help me, that someone here have the same VGA that I have and got it working but didn't submitted to the spreadsheet.
> Thank ya'll!*


It should work just fine I'm pretty sure youll need a shim like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14971/ex-blc-1051/EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_HD7970_Cu_Adapter.html

As for heatsinks, you may have a heatsink on your vrm. For the vram you will need some heatsinks like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-gpu-heatsinks-15x15mm-black-10-stk.html and i would replace the tape with this http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-junpus-thermal-tape-t180-0-5mm.html . I would purchase some different thermal paste, whichever type you decide is the best.

if you're really handy your best bet would be to modify this to fit
http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-swiftech-hd7900-series-full-cover-heatsink-for-amd-radeon-hd7970.html

If you really want to use a vga to pwm adapter thats fine, I run the fan on mine 100%

Hopefully i answered some of your questions


----------



## mizifih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> It should work just fine I'm pretty sure youll need a shim like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14971/ex-blc-1051/EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_HD7970_Cu_Adapter.html
> 
> As for heatsinks, you may have a heatsink on your vrm. For the vram you will need some heatsinks like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-gpu-heatsinks-15x15mm-black-10-stk.html and i would replace the tape with this http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-junpus-thermal-tape-t180-0-5mm.html . I would purchase some different thermal paste, whichever type you decide is the best.
> 
> if you're really handy your best bet would be to modify this to fit
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-swiftech-hd7900-series-full-cover-heatsink-for-amd-radeon-hd7970.html
> 
> If you really want to use a vga to pwm adapter thats fine, I run the fan on mine 100%
> 
> Hopefully i answered some of your questions


Thank you for your replay









*About the Shim:* Will I need a Thermal Compound or a Thermal Glue/tape to place it on the VGA? I really don't know if I need or must make it permanent with the water cooler. I'm assuming I should use a Thermal Compound. But correct me if I'm wrong.

*... the Heatsink and full cover:* They both look kinda high profile, you sure they would fit between the G10 and the X41 head/motor would fit that hole? I mean, it's not that I can't place it together, I think I'm up to the task, but If I need to cut some something, I maybe not be that handy. I most definitely need all the parts ready to just place it where it needs to be placed, that I can handle. Crafting is not really something I'm up to, I don't even have tools for that. That full cover heatsink looks like it can do wonders for temp though.

*... and the Thermal Tape:* No problem there. Just cut in pieces, sized as it would fit. Right?

So that's everything I need? Shim, Heatsink, Thermal Tape, Thermal Compound and Kraken G10 and X41. Do you think a 280mm radiator is really necessary for just one VGA or it would be _overkill_?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> It should work just fine I'm pretty sure youll need a shim like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14971/ex-blc-1051/EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_HD7970_Cu_Adapter.html
> 
> As for heatsinks, you may have a heatsink on your vrm. For the vram you will need some heatsinks like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-gpu-heatsinks-15x15mm-black-10-stk.html and i would replace the tape with this http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-junpus-thermal-tape-t180-0-5mm.html . I would purchase some different thermal paste, whichever type you decide is the best.
> 
> if you're really handy your best bet would be to modify this to fit
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-swiftech-hd7900-series-full-cover-heatsink-for-amd-radeon-hd7970.html
> 
> If you really want to use a vga to pwm adapter thats fine, I run the fan on mine 100%
> 
> Hopefully i answered some of your questions


So regrading the vrm. Do i need to cool both vrms or will the vrm closest to the screen connector be cool enough running on just air cooling. i understand it doesn't run as hot as long as you don't overclock or up the voltage on the ram. Should I get just to be safe. it's not easy to get hold of memory/vrm heatsinks in my country. I can get the following.

http://www.comx.co.za/CK5000-Jetart-Universal-Ram-Chip-Heatsink-Buy-p-94412.php

I can maybe try and diy an old motherboard chipset by cutting it to the correct size the particular VRM I need to cool.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wgizmo*
> 
> Any one did G10 on GTX 970?


I too am wondering if anyone else is running the G10 on a 970 yet.

The 970 is definitely going to be my new GPU in a week or so (once I figure out which one to buy - tough decision), since my 7950 died about a month ago...









AFAIK, the G10 should work on any reference PCB 970 if it works on the 980. You just have to be careful how to mount it if your card has a back plate or not.

The other thing is; these 970's don't necessarily need water cooling since most of them already run so much quieter and cooler than other high-end GPUs. I guess it depends if you're a heavy overclocker or not...


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizifih*
> 
> Thank you for your replay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *About the Shim:* Will I need a Thermal Compound or a Thermal Glue/tape to place it on the VGA? I really don't know if I need or must make it permanent with the water cooler. I'm assuming I should use a Thermal Compound. But correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> *... the Heatsink and full cover:* They both look kinda high profile, you sure they would fit between the G10 and the X41 head/motor would fit that hole? I mean, it's not that I can't place it together, I think I'm up to the task, but If I need to cut some something, I maybe not be that handy. I most definitely need all the parts ready to just place it where it needs to be placed, that I can handle. Crafting is not really something I'm up to, I don't even have tools for that. That full cover heatsink looks like it can do wonders for temp though.
> 
> *... and the Thermal Tape:* No problem there. Just cut in pieces, sized as it would fit. Right?
> 
> So that's everything I need? Shim, Heatsink, Thermal Tape, Thermal Compound and Kraken G10 and X41. Do you think a 280mm radiator is really necessary for just one VGA or it would be _overkill_?


For the shim its thermal compound between the shim and cooler and thermal comound between the shim and chip. You need compound between all surfaces that are contacting eachother.

For the full cover heatsink i was picturing just utilizing the part thats over the vrms. So *extensive* modification would probably be required. It does look a little tall.

For the thermal tape yes just cut it to fit.

A 280 cooler might be a bit overkill. For instance im running an R9 290 and im using a corsair h55, a 120mm cooler and it dropped my temps 40C.

Stick around a bit before you make any decisions. I'm sure someone will come around with some good info for you.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So regrading the vrm. Do i need to cool both vrms or will the vrm closest to the screen connector be cool enough running on just air cooling. i understand it doesn't run as hot as long as you don't overclock or up the voltage on the ram. Should I get just to be safe. it's not easy to get hold of memory/vrm heatsinks in my country. I can get the following.
> 
> http://www.comx.co.za/CK5000-Jetart-Universal-Ram-Chip-Heatsink-Buy-p-94412.php
> 
> I can maybe try and diy an old motherboard chipset by cutting it to the correct size the particular VRM I need to cool.


I would want heatsinks on all vrms.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I would want heatsinks on all vrms.


I would also like heatsink on all vrms but do you really think that vrm will get super hot. it's not getting that hot currently and there is no heatsing on it only the heatsink hovering above the card. I'm going to have a bracket with a fan at the back of the card blowing air onto it so should help with airflow even more.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I would also like heatsink on all vrms but do you really think that vrm will get super hot. it's not getting that hot currently and there is no heatsing on it only the heatsink hovering above the card. I'm going to have a bracket with a fan at the back of the card blowing air onto it so should help with airflow even more.


Are you sure? That seems odd to me that they don't have a heatsink on the vrm. If thats so it would be worth a try to see if you could get away with a heatsink or not. Are you planning on overclocking at all?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Are you sure? That seems odd to me that they don't have a heatsink on the vrm. If thats so it would be worth a try to see if you could get away with a heatsink or not. Are you planning on overclocking at all?


no only heatsink on VRM that's responsible for Vcore and not the vrm handlin the vram.


----------



## markob53

Hi guys, just got the G10 but I can't connect the fan to the card as it's a different connector (MSI Gaming 780 ti) is there any way to achieve this or do I have to connect the fan to the mobo?


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Hi guys, just got the G10 but I can't connect the fan to the card as it's a different connector (MSI Gaming 780 ti) is there any way to achieve this or do I have to connect the fan to the mobo?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718002&cm_re=vga_to_pwm-_-12-718-002-_-Product

I'm pretty sure youll need a 4pin fan to allow the card to control the speed


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718002&cm_re=vga_to_pwm-_-12-718-002-_-Product
> 
> I'm pretty sure youll need a 4pin fan to allow the card to control the speed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718002&cm_re=vga_to_pwm-_-12-718-002-_-Product
> 
> I'm pretty sure youll need a 4pin fan to allow the card to control the speed


Pretty sure I've seen others control there fan using the one that comes with the g10? Will this adapter from my local store do the same job?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/graphics-card-3-pin-to-vga-fan-004m-adapter-a38gf

Ideally I want to be able to control the fan using MSI afterburner.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Pretty sure I've seen others control there fan using the one that comes with the g10? Will this adapter from my local store do the same job?
> 
> http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/graphics-card-3-pin-to-vga-fan-004m-adapter-a38gf
> 
> Ideally I want to be able to control the fan using MSI afterburner.


From what i understand to run the fan off of the cards fan header you'll need that fourth pin. Most motherboards bios have control for 3 pin fans, but i don't think that youll be able to adjust fan profiles if your using a 3 pin fan connected to the header on your card. Another option is connecting the fan to a header on your motherboard and controlling it that way.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> From what i understand to run the fan off of the cards fan header you'll need that fourth pin. Most motherboards bios have control for 3 pin fans, but i don't think that youll be able to adjust fan profiles if your using a 3 pin fan connected to the header on your card. Another option is connecting the fan to a header on your motherboard and controlling it that way.


I see, so the adapter won't help because I actually need a fourth pin? So basically the only option is to plug it into the mobo and control it that way? So it's impossible to use MSI afterburner to control the fan.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I see, so the adapter won't help because I actually need a fourth pin? So basically the only option is to plug it into the mobo and control it that way? So it's impossible to use MSI afterburner to control the fan.


you can get an aftermarket fan thats pwm. Or you could use that adapter with your card and fan and it would run at 100% which i hear they are really quiet fans. Otherwise do some searching to see what other guys have done. I hope I've been able to help. Someone may come by and correct me and have better info too


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> you can get an aftermarket fan thats pwm. Or you could use that adapter with your card and fan and it would run at 100% which i hear they are really quiet fans. Otherwise do some searching to see what other guys have done. I hope I've been able to help. Someone may come by and correct me and have better info too


So because it's not pwn it can't spin up and down on its own, but if I was to get the adapter and connect it to the gpu I could still set a manual fan speed via afterburner? I was planning on doing that anyway just to keep it quiet.


----------



## Vendari

Usually GPU fan headers are PWM as well... the last card I saw with voltage control was the HD6770 by Sapphire.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

just installed a G10 (with a H55) on my R9 290 and installed it inside my NCASE M1 - tight fit but it all works.

idle temps 32C max, and im yet to see full load temps hit higher than 54C on furmark with a single eLoop B12-2 at about 850rpm. so much quieter although i do have what seems like a lot of pump noise from the H55, which is irritating, but hopefully that will disappear with some use as the air runs out of the loop.

hopefully its not a dud H55 - that would irritate me a lot as returning **** in Aus is a pain.
pics to follow soonish.


----------



## krusty50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> just installed a G10 (with a H55) on my R9 290 and installed it inside my NCASE M1 - tight fit but it all works.
> 
> idle temps 32C max, and im yet to see full load temps hit higher than 54C on furmark with a single eLoop B12-2 at about 850rpm. so much quieter although i do have what seems like a lot of pump noise from the H55, which is irritating, but hopefully that will disappear with some use as the air runs out of the loop.
> 
> hopefully its not a dud H55 - that would irritate me a lot as returning **** in Aus is a pain.
> pics to follow soonish.


Out of curiosity, is the h55 pulling fresh air in or is it setup as an exhaust? That might explain the 4-5C difference from my setup...


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> Usually GPU fan headers are PWM as well... the last card I saw with voltage control was the HD6770 by Sapphire.


So either way with an adapter I'll be able to control the fan with afterburner?


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krusty50*
> 
> Out of curiosity, is the h55 pulling fresh air in or is it setup as an exhaust? That might explain the 4-5C difference from my setup...


right ive given it a proper burn in now and ive got some depressing results. for an R9 290.

idle temps are 30-32C, however full load temps (after 60mins of Middle-Earth Shadow of Mordor) i have load temps of 83C max (seems very high). however as soon as i tab out of the game my temps drop to 50C within 5secs.

what is the likely result of this? im using Arctic Silver after removing the stock H55 paste and i seem to be getting good cover/contact with the core.

is it likely to be a mounting issue or an airflow/rad/fan setup issue? i currently have the fan set as intake (in my NCASE M1) to try to maintain positive pressure although i think reversing it to exhaust may help somewhat.

any temp working out the high load temps would be appreciated.

cheers


----------



## RocketAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> right ive given it a proper burn in now and ive got some depressing results. for an R9 290.
> 
> idle temps are 30-32C, however full load temps (after 60mins of Middle-Earth Shadow of Mordor) i have load temps of 83C max (seems very high). however as soon as i tab out of the game my temps drop to 50C within 5secs.
> 
> what is the likely result of this? im using Arctic Silver after removing the stock H55 paste and i seem to be getting good cover/contact with the core.
> 
> is it likely to be a mounting issue or an airflow/rad/fan setup issue? i currently have the fan set as intake (in my NCASE M1) to try to maintain positive pressure although i think reversing it to exhaust may help somewhat.
> 
> any temp working out the high load temps would be appreciated.
> 
> cheers


Remount the cooler. My first application on my 290X was the same thing. After I remounted the cooler again, I have rarely seen the core go above 63C on a hot day(its practically a hot day everyday here)


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> right ive given it a proper burn in now and ive got some depressing results. for an R9 290.
> 
> idle temps are 30-32C, however full load temps (after 60mins of Middle-Earth Shadow of Mordor) i have load temps of 83C max (seems very high). however as soon as i tab out of the game my temps drop to 50C within 5secs.
> 
> what is the likely result of this? im using Arctic Silver after removing the stock H55 paste and i seem to be getting good cover/contact with the core.
> 
> is it likely to be a mounting issue or an airflow/rad/fan setup issue? i currently have the fan set as intake (in my NCASE M1) to try to maintain positive pressure although i think reversing it to exhaust may help somewhat.
> 
> any temp working out the high load temps would be appreciated.
> 
> cheers


First thing you need to do is switch it to exhaust. The air coming out of a single 120mm exhaust for a powerhungry card like an R9 290 is HOT. I have a 120mm AIO for my 780, and the air coming out of that is freaking hot. Set it to exhaust immediately and see if that improves temperatures. If temperatures don't improve, try a remount. If neither of those two things work, it could be a problem with the H55. Also, what are ambient temperatures?


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RocketAbyss*
> 
> Remount the cooler. My first application on my 290X was the same thing. After I remounted the cooler again, I have rarely seen the core go above 63C on a hot day(its practically a hot day everyday here)


ok thanks for that, glad im not the only one. how tight do i need to tighten the screws? im so worried im overtightening them but i suspect that thats my problem, that i dont have the screws tight enough.

how much paste did you use on yours? i ended up with a small pea size (probably too small).

and ill probably be reversing the airflow direction too.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> First thing you need to do is switch it to exhaust. The air coming out of a single 120mm exhaust for a powerhungry card like an R9 290 is HOT. I have a 120mm AIO for my 780, and the air coming out of that is freaking hot. Set it to exhaust immediately and see if that improves temperatures. If temperatures don't improve, try a remount. If neither of those two things work, it could be a problem with the H55. Also, what are ambient temperatures?


yep. thats the plan. my ambients are about 20C, so nothing too extreme.

yep, i think the order of priority will be reverse airflow then remount.

ive got 2x 120mm fans blowing air onto the pcb so i have nil probs with vrm temps as yet.

yeh im hoping the H55 isnt a bit special - if i cant work out any fix ill try swapping my H55 with Water 3.0 Performer (same Asetek cooler) and see if i have any significant differences).


----------



## RocketAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> ok thanks for that, glad im not the only one. how tight do i need to tighten the screws? im so worried im overtightening them but i suspect that thats my problem, that i dont have the screws tight enough.
> 
> how much paste did you use on yours? i ended up with a small pea size (probably too small).
> 
> and ill probably be reversing the airflow direction too.


Screw in a cross pattern. Top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left. A few notches at a time, not all the way down. Rinse and repeat until fully tightened.

Yeah I used about a small pea size or an uncooked rice grain size of thermal paste.

TBH the airflow thing doesn't really matter much. I have mine set as an intake from the bottom, but my case has quite optimal airflow so it doesn't affect the internal temps that much.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RocketAbyss*
> 
> Screw in a cross pattern. Top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left. A few notches at a time, not all the way down. Rinse and repeat until fully tightened.
> 
> Yeah I used about a small pea size or an uncooked rice grain size of thermal paste.
> 
> TBH the airflow thing doesn't really matter much. I have mine set as an intake from the bottom, but my case has quite optimal airflow so it doesn't affect the internal temps that much.


yep ive been doing the cross pattern. i reckon im not screwing tight enough - although i am screwing them only by hand until tight, should i be screwdrivering in a bit after that? yeh ill see what spread i got when i remove the


----------



## RocketAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> yep ive been doing the cross pattern. i reckon im not screwing tight enough - although i am screwing them only by hand until tight, should i be screwdrivering in a bit after that? yeh ill see what spread i got when i remove the


Yeap try using a screwdriver. Be careful tho, as you'll see your card start to warp if you tighten it too much.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> First thing you need to do is switch it to exhaust. The air coming out of a single 120mm exhaust for a powerhungry card like an R9 290 is HOT. I have a 120mm AIO for my 780, and the air coming out of that is freaking hot. Set it to exhaust immediately and see if that improves temperatures. If temperatures don't improve, try a remount. If neither of those two things work, it could be a problem with the H55. Also, what are ambient temperatures?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> right ive given it a proper burn in now and ive got some depressing results. for an R9 290.
> 
> idle temps are 30-32C, however full load temps (after 60mins of Middle-Earth Shadow of Mordor) i have load temps of 83C max (seems very high). however as soon as i tab out of the game my temps drop to 50C within 5secs.
> 
> what is the likely result of this? im using Arctic Silver after removing the stock H55 paste and i seem to be getting good cover/contact with the core.
> 
> is it likely to be a mounting issue or an airflow/rad/fan setup issue? i currently have the fan set as intake (in my NCASE M1) to try to maintain positive pressure although i think reversing it to exhaust may help somewhat.
> 
> any temp working out the high load temps would be appreciated.
> 
> cheers


Having his radiator setup as an intake would not cause temps like that. I run my cpu radiator and my gpu radiator both as intake and my temps are fine. Like everyone else said do a remount. I found my issue was i used too much thermal paste on my first mount


----------



## raclimja

Hi just want to share my experience with this GPU bracket.

My complete system specs:

CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1230 V3 Haswell 4c/8t 3.3Ghz (turbo on all cores 3.5Ghz)
MOBO: Gigabyte Z87X-OC
RAM: 8GB(2x4GB) Gskill Trident X DDR3 2400 CL10 1.65v
GPU: Gigabyte R9 290 4GB Windforce OC(old), MSI GTX 780 Twin Frozr(current)
Storage: 1x 960GB Crucial M500, 1x 2TB Samsung M9T 2.5", 1x 1.5TB Toshiba 2.5"
PSU: Seasonic X660 80Plus Platinum
Network: Killer Wireless-N 1103 via mini PCIe to PCIe adapter
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro Windowed Black
Coolers: 2x Corsair H110 280mm AIO Liquid Cooler (1 for CPU and 1 for GPU via NZXT G10 Bracket).
Monitor: Benq XL2420z v2 1920x1080 144Hz (i ran it 1080p 120Hz via strobe backlight "blur reduction")

I made sure to configure my case to have good airflow by making both the Corsair H110 (on the top and bottom: i added a random 120mm lian li fan for the bottom radiator as it gets quite toasty) an in take and flip around my PSU and make its fan ran constantly so the hot air from the bottom raidator(gpu) is sucked out asap.

The thermal compound that I used is Arctic Cooling MX-4

Since i am using a high refresh rate monitor, my GPU is constantly loaded 100% especially since some games that I play even barely manages to maintain a solid 120FPS.

I am currently running my GPU at stock speed but plan to overclock it in the future.

I originally bought the NZXT G10 bracket for my R9 290. With the stock cooler for my Gigabyte R9 290 4GB Windforce OC under uber mode, I am getting average temps of about 71-76c and about 82c on very demanding games. With the NZXT G10 + Corsair H110 the temps drop to 58-61c average and 71c absolute highest I saw while gaming.

also note that I do not have the VRM and VRAM heatsink for the R9 290. I was honestly disappointed with the result considering that I heard people using an AIO 120mm Liquid cooler and getting about mid 50's temps.

I sold my R9 290 recently and side graded to an MSI GTX 780 TF. With the stock cooler I get an average temp of about 59-62c and absolute max 67c I saw while gaming. With the NZXT G10 + Corsair H110 the temps drop to 45-47c average and 51c on absolute highest while gaming.

I also noticed that if I plug my pump(it is 3 pin) on a 4 pin PWN fan header, the pump would ran extremely slow(I can tell by touching the tube and the water isn't flowing fast) compared to a 3 pin fan header. I am also running my fans at low RPM (via the fan hub on my case and controlled via my motherboard fan control software) as I don't notice a difference in temps while running it at max RPM(it is loud as hell).


----------



## Cysquatch

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raclimja*
> 
> Hi just want to share my experience with this GPU bracket.
> 
> My complete system specs:
> 
> CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1230 V3 Haswell 4c/8t 3.3Ghz (turbo on all cores 3.5Ghz)
> MOBO: Gigabyte Z87X-OC
> RAM: 8GB(2x4GB) Gskill Trident X DDR3 2400 CL10 1.65v
> GPU: Gigabyte R9 290 4GB Windforce OC(old), MSI GTX 780 Twin Frozr(current)
> Storage: 1x 960GB Crucial M500, 1x 2TB Samsung M9T 2.5", 1x 1.5TB Toshiba 2.5"
> PSU: Seasonic X660 80Plus Platinum
> Network: Killer Wireless-N 1103 via mini PCIe to PCIe adapter
> Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro Windowed Black
> Coolers: 2x Corsair H110 280mm AIO Liquid Cooler (1 for CPU and 1 for GPU via NZXT G10 Bracket).
> Monitor: Benq XL2420z v2 1920x1080 144Hz (i ran it 1080p 120Hz via strobe backlight "blur reduction")
> 
> I made sure to configure my case to have good airflow by making both the Corsair H110 (on the top and bottom: i added a random 120mm lian li fan for the bottom radiator as it gets quite toasty) an in take and flip around my PSU and make its fan ran constantly so the hot air from the bottom raidator(gpu) is sucked out asap.
> 
> The thermal compound that I used is Arctic Cooling MX-4
> 
> Since i am using a high refresh rate monitor, my GPU is constantly loaded 100% especially since some games that I play even barely manages to maintain a solid 120FPS.
> 
> I am currently running my GPU at stock speed but plan to overclock it in the future.
> 
> I originally bought the NZXT G10 bracket for my R9 290. With the stock cooler for my Gigabyte R9 290 4GB Windforce OC under uber mode, I am getting average temps of about 71-76c and about 82c on very demanding games. With the NZXT G10 + Corsair H110 the temps drop to 58-61c average and 71c absolute highest I saw while gaming.
> 
> also note that I do not have the VRM and VRAM heatsink for the R9 290. I was honestly disappointed with the result considering that I heard people using an AIO 120mm Liquid cooler and getting about mid 50's temps.
> 
> I sold my R9 290 recently and side graded to an MSI GTX 780 TF. With the stock cooler I get an average temp of about 59-62c and absolute max 67c I saw while gaming. With the NZXT G10 + Corsair H110 the temps drop to 45-47c average and 51c on absolute highest while gaming.
> 
> I also noticed that if I plug my pump(it is 3 pin) on a 4 pin PWN fan header, the pump would ran extremely slow(I can tell by touching the tube and the water isn't flowing fast) compared to a 3 pin fan header. *I am also running my fans at low RPM (via the fan hub on my case and controlled via my motherboard fan control software)* as I don't notice a difference in temps while running it at max RPM(it is loud as hell).


This would probably be why your pump isnt running full speed

Thats unfortunate you were disappointed in the performance of the kraken on an R9 290. Running a heaven loop i keep my R9 290 at 51C max with an h55


----------



## markob53

So are people here mostly connecting there G10 fan to the Mobo? What would happen if i used to splitter to connect the pump and the G10 fan to the same header? can i still control my G10 fan via the bios even though my pump is connected to the same header? A bit confused about how the fan should be connected as it won't fit in my GPU.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Having his radiator setup as an intake would not cause temps like that. I run my cpu radiator and my gpu radiator both as intake and my temps are fine. Like everyone else said do a remount. I found my issue was i used too much thermal paste on my first mount


He has a mini ITX case. I don't know if you have placed your hand in front of a 120mm radiator for a 220 TDP GPU lately, but the air coming out of it is extremely hot. That air was blasting directly into his tiny computer without any airflow.

For the average user of a mid or full tower chassis, it shouldn't make too much of a difference, but for his specific chassis, I can easily see it raising temps by 10C+.

I would also like to add that I have a 120mm AIO for my 780, in a full tower case. If I switch the radiator from exhaust to intake, my temperatures do increase by 6C, and I have excellent airflow. Every case is different, and everyone's airflow is different, so what works for one person isn't guaranteed to work for another. I highly recommend that everyone run their GPU AIOs as exhaust, but of course the best solution is to test for yourself to find the best configuration for your radiators, and fans.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> So are people here mostly connecting there G10 fan to the Mobo? What would happen if i used to splitter to connect the pump and the G10 fan to the same header? can i still control my G10 fan via the bios even though my pump is connected to the same header? A bit confused about how the fan should be connected as it won't fit in my GPU.


A lot of people, myself included use a VGA to PWM fan adapter so we can connect the G10's fan directly into the GPU and control the speed through MSI Afterburner. Just set it to a constant 80%+. You don't want it on a fan curve because the temperature is measured through the core, and the mini fan is intended for the VRMs, you want it at a constant high rpm.


----------



## markob53

In the end i ended up connecting the fan to one of my CHA_FAN headers and the pump to the other remaining CHA_FAN header.

But it appears i'm not getting the temps i had hoped for with a H55 attached...

My graphics card is a MSI 780 TI Gaming, running Valley for 5 minutes the temps go as high as 86c (graphics clock - 1306 and memory 3500mhz (7000)). which i know is far too high, although when i tested Sims 3 and Metro 2033 earlier i got in the mid 60's and idle is about 30c.

I have re installed the bracket a couple of times and obviously had to re-apply my own thermal paste (Akasa 455) I have the rad mounted to the bottom front intake fan in my NZXT H440 case (Noctua NF-F12 Focused Flow 120mm) I have a H100i in the roof with 2 exhaust fans and 1 exhaust fan in the rear.

I noticed when i went into the bios after i installed the pump and fan that there was a water gurgling sound and that the rpm of both fan and pump was low, i sent them both to the max and the pump is now running at just under 1500rpm and the fan is about the same, is that the normal pump speed? My H100i runs at over 2000rpm (which is connected to CPU_OPT).

The positives i'm seeing are that whilst gaming, temps don't get anywhere near the Valley sort of temps with the added bonus of no fan noise but i think it's pretty obvious i'm not getting the temps others seem to be getting, any ideas on where i could have gone wrong?

EDIT: The 1306 graphics clock that Valley is reporting...isn't that rather high? I must point out i have not overclocked my gpu.

Thanks.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> A lot of people, myself included use a VGA to PWM fan adapter so we can connect the G10's fan directly into the GPU and control the speed through MSI Afterburner. Just set it to a constant 80%+. You don't want it on a fan curve because the temperature is measured through the core, and the mini fan is intended for the VRMs, you want it at a constant high rpm.


im actually considering this, does anyone have any good links to 2 or 3 times splitters that do shipping to Australia (or an Aus site). would be really handy if i could do the g10 fan and my 2x bottom case fans off the GPU header. would make fan control a lot easier and free up some mobo headers.

tbh in my case i dont really need the g10 fan attached as my bottom 120mm case fans are so close, but im just concerned about the bracket blocking airflow to the vrms.

depending on some tests i may take a dremel to the bracket and remove the fan mount so i get direct case fan airflow.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> im actually considering this, does anyone have any good links to 2 or 3 times splitters that do shipping to Australia (or an Aus site). would be really handy if i could do the g10 fan and my 2x bottom case fans off the GPU header. would make fan control a lot easier and free up some mobo headers.
> 
> tbh in my case i dont really need the g10 fan attached as my bottom 120mm case fans are so close, but im just concerned about the bracket blocking airflow to the vrms.
> 
> depending on some tests i may take a dremel to the bracket and remove the fan mount so i get direct case fan airflow.


You HAVE to have the G10's fan in place. I would not recommend removing it, even if you have other fans, its just not worth the risk. Using more than 1 fan powered from your GPU is something else I would avoid.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> In the end i ended up connecting the fan to one of my CHA_FAN headers and the pump to the other remaining CHA_FAN header.
> 
> But it appears i'm not getting the temps i had hoped for with a H55 attached...
> 
> My graphics card is a MSI 780 TI Gaming, running Valley for 5 minutes the temps go as high as 86c (graphics clock - 1306 and memory 3500mhz (7000)). which i know is far too high, although when i tested Sims 3 and Metro 2033 earlier i got in the mid 60's and idle is about 30c.
> 
> I have re installed the bracket a couple of times and obviously had to re-apply my own thermal paste (Akasa 455) I have the rad mounted to the bottom front intake fan in my NZXT H440 case (Noctua NF-F12 Focused Flow 120mm) I have a H100i in the roof with 2 exhaust fans and 1 exhaust fan in the rear.
> 
> I noticed when i went into the bios after i installed the pump and fan that there was a water gurgling sound and that the rpm of both fan and pump was low, i sent them both to the max and the pump is now running at just under 1500rpm and the fan is about the same, is that the normal pump speed? My H100i runs at over 2000rpm (which is connected to CPU_OPT).
> 
> The positives i'm seeing are that whilst gaming, temps don't get anywhere near the Valley sort of temps with the added bonus of no fan noise but i think it's pretty obvious i'm not getting the temps others seem to be getting, any ideas on where i could have gone wrong?
> 
> EDIT: The 1306 graphics clock that Valley is reporting...isn't that rather high? I must point out i have not overclocked my gpu.
> 
> Thanks.


Switch your H55 radiator to exhaust, and make sure that the pump fan header is plugged into your PSU via molex. This way it will run at 100%, and it will free up a motherboard fan header. Also flip your H100i so that those fans are intaking air. We will flip the air flow of your case from high to low. The H440 is notorious for poor airflow, so already you are at a small disadvantage. When running Valley, it could be that valley is reporting temperatures and settings incorrectly. Use HWiNFO / MSi Afterburner to monitor temperatures. Unigine Heaven and Valley are not always correct.


----------



## sch010

delete


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

right guys i cannot get this thing to run cool. im now running fans on exhaust, have reseated a couple of times now. seem to get idle temps in the mid 30C range but im still getting load temps of 80C+

im gunna try running the rad out of the case to try to isolate whether or not its a seating issue. that and im gunna put the higher SP fan i own to see if it could possibly be an airflow issue.

just to double check the R9 290 doesnt need a shim at all does it? i seem to have really good contact when i go to reseat.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> right guys i cannot get this thing to run cool. im now running fans on exhaust, have reseated a couple of times now. seem to get idle temps in the mid 30C range but im still getting load temps of 80C+


If you're getting temps of 80+ the pump isn't making proper contact.
I've seen this personally myself.

I did try Googling a naked pic of your card, but can't find one, so I'm not sure if it needs a shim or not, but your temps are cause but 1 of 2 things.
1. Improper contact with the pump surface.
2. Pump isn't actually running.

Even if the fans aren't spinning you will not see 80c+ temps for a long time when stressing (done that for a test myself).


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> If you're getting temps of 80+ the pump isn't making proper contact.
> I've seen this personally myself.
> 
> I did try Googling a naked pic of your card, but can't find one, so I'm not sure if it needs a shim or not, but your temps are cause but 1 of 2 things.
> 1. Improper contact with the pump surface.
> 2. Pump isn't actually running.
> 
> Even if the fans aren't spinning you will not see 80c+ temps for a long time when stressing (done that for a test myself).


right problems solved!

it appears it was due in inadequate fan SP. i was using a NB eLoop B12-P, which is supposedly rated for about 2.5mm/H2O, however i doubt this fact having swapped it out for the Corsair SP fan that came with my old H80i, which is rated for 4mm/H2O - which instantly put my idles at 33C and my load not exceeding 59C at about 1900rpm (of the 2600rpm rated).

thanks for the help everyone, it appears this problem was mainly me being derpy about my fans. facepalm.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Switch your H55 radiator to exhaust, and make sure that the pump fan header is plugged into your PSU via molex. This way it will run at 100%, and it will free up a motherboard fan header. Also flip your H100i so that those fans are intaking air. We will flip the air flow of your case from high to low. The H440 is notorious for poor airflow, so already you are at a small disadvantage. When running Valley, it could be that valley is reporting temperatures and settings incorrectly. Use HWiNFO / MSi Afterburner to monitor temperatures. Unigine Heaven and Valley are not always correct.


Thanks for the reply.

Would swapping it to an exhaust really make THAT much of a difference between getting in the 80s and getting it down to the 50's or 60's? I've had my roof fans set to both intakes and exhausts prior to getting the G10 and didnt really notice a difference so i kept them as exhaust because of the old rule of hot air rising, maybe i don't fully understand but would turning the fan on the rad into an exhaust really lower my temps by 20+ degrees?

I know my case isn't the best air flow wise but i have been into the bios and had all my fans in my case at full speed with the side panels both on and off and all them them hit 80 in both Kombustor and Valley (reported by MSI afterburner)

I've attached some pictures of the setup, i'm wondering if i have a bad contact on the H55? it looks pretty solid to me, i will say i don't have the rubber washers attached but it doesnt look like it would need them, not sure if a need a copper shim?






Excuse the wires.


----------



## Aggromuffin

Managed to stick two double-thick AOI's and a G10 in Corsair's Air 240. Also, the G10 fits perfectly on the GTX 980 (which is what im using)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Would swapping it to an exhaust really make THAT much of a difference between getting in the 80s and getting it down to the 50's or 60's? I've had my roof fans set to both intakes and exhausts prior to getting the G10 and didnt really notice a difference so i kept them as exhaust because of the old rule of hot air rising, maybe i don't fully understand but would turning the fan on the rad into an exhaust really lower my temps by 20+ degrees?
> 
> I know my case isn't the best air flow wise but i have been into the bios and had all my fans in my case at full speed with the side panels both on and off and all them them hit 80 in both Kombustor and Valley (reported by MSI afterburner)
> 
> I've attached some pictures of the setup, i'm wondering if i have a bad contact on the H55? it looks pretty solid to me, i will say i don't have the rubber washers attached but it doesnt look like it would need them, not sure if a need a copper shim?
> 
> Excuse the wires.


It won't make that much of a difference, but it is a start, and its how the radiator for the GPU is supposed to be run. The CPU isn't as big of a deal because its a 240mm, and the TDP is much lower than the GPU's. You have the MSI 780Ti, this GPU doesn't require a shim, but maybe you aren't getting proper contact between the AIO and the core. Try re-seating the cooler. That or the pump is not working correctly. Those are the two main reasons for a problem. Also maybe the type of fans that you are using. One guy above went from one fan type to another fan type and that decreased his temps by 20C. You want static pressure optimized fans, not airflow. If you are using AF, switch back to whatever fans came with the H55.

For your H100i, yes hot air does rise, but you also want to have cool air intaking, it *should* lower your temps by 1-2C. Also, it will help with the overall airflow of your case because you definitely want to have the H55 as an exhaust.


----------



## mrzoo

Make sure where u have ur pump header plugged into that it's running 100% u can check in bios happened with me


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Make sure where u have ur pump header plugged into that it's running 100% u can check in bios happened with me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> It won't make that much of a difference, but it is a start, and its how the radiator for the GPU is supposed to be run. The CPU isn't as big of a deal because its a 240mm, and the TDP is much lower than the GPU's. You have the MSI 780Ti, this GPU doesn't require a shim, but maybe you aren't getting proper contact between the AIO and the core. Try re-seating the cooler. That or the pump is not working correctly. Those are the two main reasons for a problem. Also maybe the type of fans that you are using. One guy above went from one fan type to another fan type and that decreased his temps by 20C. You want static pressure optimized fans, not airflow. If you are using AF, switch back to whatever fans came with the H55.
> 
> For your H100i, yes hot air does rise, but you also want to have cool air intaking, it *should* lower your temps by 1-2C. Also, it will help with the overall airflow of your case because you definitely want to have the H55 as an exhaust.


My fans are 'Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm Focused Flow PWM Cooling Fans' which i used to replace the default fans in the case, I will try re-seating the pump just to be sure but one thing i have been wondering is if the pump is running at max speed, the bios says it's running at about 1500rpm but it says my H100i is running at about 2500rpm so i'm not sure if the H55 should be runnin at the same speed?


----------



## orndorf77

I want to cool my x2 evga gtx 780 sc acx's that I have in sli because I want to overclock them . I currently have a swiftech h220x and it will cost me around $450 for x2 water blocks a 240mm radiator and all the tubing and fittings I need . or I can get x2 nzxt g110's and x2 corsair h55's for $170 . my questions are how does the nzxt g110 and corsair h55 perform together ? will I see a substantial temperature drop coming from the evga acx stock coolers ? and how will my temperatures compare to if I expanded my h220x ? and in your opinion do you think my build would look odd with a swiftech h220x and x2 nzxt g110's and x2 corsair h55's or do you think it would look good ?


----------



## mrzoo

Well I have a msi gaming gtx 760 at stock cooler in heaven it was running about 70c now with g10 and h55 I'm not going above 57c


----------



## Xel_Naga

follow up on the 980 on the G10...

So I went out and got an infrared thermometer.
Full load
trying to measure the VRMs directly (underneath the fan) it reads between 38-42C not entirely sure this is accurate. but when i measure from the back of the card behind the VRMs the board is showing 49-59c depending on the location i measure at.

I feel like if the VRMs were getting near 90+c the back of the card and the front area around the VRMs would be reading way higher than the readings I am getting. What do you guys think?

"full load" is 100% gpu load @ 1505mhz


----------



## markob53

Ok i'm really at a loss on how to get good results with the G10, just tried a remount and it was nearly hitting 100c in Kombustor.

I really have no idea what i could be doing wrong, i was getting up to 80c before the remount and slowly rising.

One thing i have noticed is that there isn't a lot of screw to work with when trying to tighten the H55 into place, enough that i can tighten it but only just, i did try turning the fans into exhaust, i even tried setting up push/pull. (although i did a quick job of thise by just turning the fan round and only partly tightening it).

I did fully expect when i got this kit that i'd maybe not see the same results as others were getting, due to the poor airflow of the NZXT H440 case, but 80c and 100c? worse than my stock Twin Frozr cooler? i'm not buying that.

I did think about removing the rubber washers on the nuts to allow me to tighten it more, any ideas?

At this point i'm willing to pay someone just to sort this, ever since building my pc a couple of months ago everything has gone right both with performance of the computer and the look/feel of the computer, but a warm case whilst gaming and now temps with the G10 have always haunted me and it feels like everything is going against me and no solution is working, it's almost not worth the effort.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Ok i'm really at a loss on how to get good results with the G10, just tried a remount and it was nearly hitting 100c in Kombustor.
> 
> I really have no idea what i could be doing wrong, i was getting up to 80c before the remount and slowly rising.
> 
> One thing i have noticed is that there isn't a lot of screw to work with when trying to tighten the H55 into place, enough that i can tighten it but only just, i did try turning the fans into exhaust, i even tried setting up push/pull. (although i did a quick job of thise by just turning the fan round and only partly tightening it).
> 
> I did fully expect when i got this kit that i'd maybe not see the same results as others were getting, due to the poor airflow of the NZXT H440 case, but 80c and 100c? worse than my stock Twin Frozr cooler? i'm not buying that.
> 
> I did think about removing the rubber washers on the nuts to allow me to tighten it more, any ideas?
> 
> At this point i'm willing to pay someone just to sort this, ever since building my pc a couple of months ago everything has gone right both with performance of the computer and the look/feel of the computer, but a warm case whilst gaming and now temps with the G10 have always haunted me and it feels like everything is going against me and no solution is working, it's almost not worth the effort.


well for me the main issues trying to sort this out was getting correct seating of the pump head and then ensuring my fans were good enough (which they werent) to push all the heat out of the rad.

dont be afraid to tighten the screws with a screw driver. i have tightened mine quite a bit (until i couldnt tighten anymore using 2 fingers on the driver head) and i have yet to see any indication ive overtightened them.

once i had that seating issue sorted i had to find a good enough SP fan to get my load temps down.

what card are you using and what are your idle temps? if your load temps are that high i would suggest its a seating issue! if your idle temps are good but your load temps stay high then it may be an airflow issue as mine was.


----------



## quick1unc

Ya seating is always the first thing you want to check on. Often times you could have a soso TIM job between the two and your idle temps will be a lil higher than normal but still within reason, but when you apply full load on it, you will see it jump up to a number much higher than you expected very fast. I would take it off and check how the paste spread between the two. Do you see spots where the paste didn't spread all the way, etc. Fix that and then make sure its nice and snug when you tighten back together. I've had to remove coolers a few times to get it just right and believe me, you'll know right away when you finally got it right, you'll see your idle temps lower off the get go and then of course your load times will fall in line as well.


----------



## markob53

Thank you for the replies.

Ok, i think i made some progress.

I once again re-seated the water block and re-applied the thermal paste except this time i tighten the screws a lot tighter (and removed the rubber washers from the nuts) i mounted the radiator at the bottom of my case with one of my Noctua fans mounted on it as intake.

When i booted up MSI Afterburner showed it was 25c idle, so i knew i'd made progress straight away. I ran Kombustor and it very slowly started creeping up (unlike before when it went straight to 70-80 etc) it was slowly going up, 31, 32, 33 etc but very slowly. So at this point i was waiting for it to level off and sit at its max temp, but it did keep rising, like i said very slowly though and it did get to 70c and the rad was very hot to touch.

So..i put one my old NZXT case fans in front of the rad so it was setup at push/pull, whilst still running Kombustor and the temps started to come down, and they stopped at 59c, However the rad was still pretty hot.

The only downside to doing this, is that i had to plug the additional fan into the fan hub on the case, so it runs at 100% and i have no free headers on the mobo to use, so is there a way i can keep the temps down without setting up push/pull? Would having the fan on the rad as an exhaust make a difference? I was put off doing that as it seems a bit backwards having an exhaust in the front of the case right next to two intake fans.

Is it normal that the rad gets that hot and does it matter which way round the fan on the rad is? (fan pushing air through the rad or fan pull air through the rad)

Thanks


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Thank you for the replies.
> 
> Ok, i think i made some progress.
> 
> I once again re-seated the water block and re-applied the thermal paste except this time i tighten the screws a lot tighter (and removed the rubber washers from the nuts) i mounted the radiator at the bottom of my case with one of my Noctua fans mounted on it as intake.
> 
> When i booted up MSI Afterburner showed it was 25c idle, so i knew i'd made progress straight away. I ran Kombustor and it very slowly started creeping up (unlike before when it went straight to 70-80 etc) it was slowly going up, 31, 32, 33 etc but very slowly. So at this point i was waiting for it to level off and sit at its max temp, but it did keep rising, like i said very slowly though and it did get to 70c and the rad was very hot to touch.
> 
> So..i put one my old NZXT case fans in front of the rad so it was setup at push/pull, whilst still running Kombustor and the temps started to come down, and they stopped at 59c, However the rad was still pretty hot.
> 
> The only downside to doing this, is that i had to plug the additional fan into the fan hub on the case, so it runs at 100% and i have no free headers on the mobo to use, so is there a way i can keep the temps down without setting up push/pull? Would having the fan on the rad as an exhaust make a difference? I was put off doing that as it seems a bit backwards having an exhaust in the front of the case right next to two intake fans.
> 
> Is it normal that the rad gets that hot and does it matter which way round the fan on the rad is? (fan pushing air through the rad or fan pull air through the rad)
> 
> Thanks


very normal for the rad to get that hot. also you definitely want that hot air going OUT. set as exhaust!


----------



## markob53

Ok i t
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> very normal for the rad to get that hot. also you definitely want that hot air going OUT. set as exhaust!


Ok, i tested 32 runs of the Metro 2033 benchmark and the temps got to 52c, that's with the fans as intakes setup push/pull, again 59c was the max it would go running Kombustor)

I just tried your suggestion and turned the fan round as an exhaust, i again set that up as push/pull and Kombustor is going no higher than 53c so games should be even less!

But with that setup i'd only have 2 intakes in my case and 5 exhausts (1 rear, 2 roof connected to H100i and 2 in push pull in the front) is this ok? I don't really want to alter the roof fans as intakes and is just kind of seems silly to have an exhaust fan exhaust air out of the the vent that the intakes will be grabbing air from lol.

Or does the fact i'm getting low temps mean i shouldn't worry about any of that?

Thanks


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Ok i t
> Ok, i tested 32 runs of the Metro 2033 benchmark and the temps got to 52c, that's with the fans as intakes setup push/pull, again 59c was the max it would go running Kombustor)
> 
> I just tried your suggestion and turned the fan round as an exhaust, i again set that up as push/pull and Kombustor is going no higher than 53c so games should be even less!
> 
> But with that setup i'd only have 2 intakes in my case and 5 exhausts (1 rear, 2 roof connected to H100i and 2 in push pull in the front) is this ok? I don't really want to alter the roof fans as intakes and is just kind of seems silly to have an exhaust fan exhaust air out of the the vent that the intakes will be grabbing air from lol.
> 
> Or does the fact i'm getting low temps mean i shouldn't worry about any of that?
> 
> Thanks


Glad to hear that your temps have finally come down, and based on what you told us, the root of the problem was mounting. You weren't getting proper pressure between the pump and the die. Your temperatures from here on out aren't going to vary much, maybe between 1-3C. The best thing you can do to keep temperatures down is to run in push/pull, that will lower temperatures more than the direction of the fans. As far as intakes, outtakes, my recommendation would be to set your H100i to intake, and the rear fan to intake. Everything else set it to exhaust. No matter what, you want to have the H55 radiator set to exhaust. It is normal for it to get that hot, which is all the more reason you want it as exhaust, you want that hot air out of your case, not in your case. If you need more fan headers, buy a splitter.

Another thing I want to mention is Kombustor. Never, ever use this program. It is a card killer. I have had this happen to me personally, and I know it has happened to many others. It puts unnecessary heat and load onto your GPU and it has to potential to straight up brick your card. If you want to benchmark or stress test, use Unigine Heaven/Valley or any other game that has a built in benchmark utility such as Metro, or Bioshock.

I'm really glad that you were able to sort out the problem, and those temperatures are very good. From here on out, the best thing to do is trial and error with fan placement if you are really into finding the absolute best results. Every case is different, every person's case placement and location is different. So what works for one person, isn't guaranteed to work for you.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I want to cool my x2 evga gtx 780 sc acx's that I have in sli because I want to overclock them . I currently have a swiftech h220x and it will cost me around $450 for x2 water blocks a 240mm radiator and all the tubing and fittings I need . or I can get x2 nzxt g110's and x2 corsair h55's for $170 . my questions are how does the nzxt g110 and corsair h55 perform together ? will I see a substantial temperature drop coming from the evga acx stock coolers ? and how will my temperatures compare to if I expanded my h220x ? and in your opinion do you think my build would look odd with a swiftech h220x and x2 nzxt g110's and x2 corsair h55's or do you think it would look good ?


I have personally done the G10 modification to an EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler, and here were my results using a Phanteks Enthoo Pro with 23.9C Ambient Temperature:

ACX Cooler:
1071Mhz Core, 6000Mhz Memory, 1.162v
Idle: 30-32C, Load*: 75C

G10 + NZXT X31(2 Fans in Push/Pull @ 1250rpm) + Aluminum Heatsinks on the VRMs:
1156Mhz Core, 6500Mhz Memory, 1.175v
Idle: 25-28C, Load*: 47C VRMs: 52C

*Load = 15min of Unigine Heaven

I wasn't able to measure the VRMs with the stock ACX Cooler because I didn't have my NZXT Sentry3 with heat probe.

As you can see, that is a terrific temperature drop, and the noise is much lower too. I have never seen my GPU go over 49C even in 8 hour long gaming sessions, and I keep my fans at 60% speed, pump at 90%. I have a backplate on my card too. It is compatible as long as you thin down or remove the rubber foam pad on the G10's backplate. I cannot speak on how well SLI temperatures will be with this, but I imagine it will be similar, maybe 5C higher at most depending on your ambient. The Air 540 is a big case, so you have plenty of room to work with.

I don't think it will look weird having two H55s and a H220X, just different. Which is not a bad thing, different is good in our PC building world. I think temperatures will be very similar if you were comparing expanding the H220X to individual H55s, it is the same amount of radiator space, so the temperatures will be similar. The only reason I can think of as to why you would expand the H220X is aesthetics.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Ok i t
> Ok, i tested 32 runs of the Metro 2033 benchmark and the temps got to 52c, that's with the fans as intakes setup push/pull, again 59c was the max it would go running Kombustor)
> 
> I just tried your suggestion and turned the fan round as an exhaust, i again set that up as push/pull and Kombustor is going no higher than 53c so games should be even less!
> 
> But with that setup i'd only have 2 intakes in my case and 5 exhausts (1 rear, 2 roof connected to H100i and 2 in push pull in the front) is this ok? I don't really want to alter the roof fans as intakes and is just kind of seems silly to have an exhaust fan exhaust air out of the the vent that the intakes will be grabbing air from lol.
> 
> Or does the fact i'm getting low temps mean i shouldn't worry about any of that?
> 
> Thanks


glad to hear man, seems like we had the same problems initially. can you move the rad to the rear exhaust fan mount? should have enough tubing and it should look too messy set up that way.


----------



## markob53

Thank you all for your help.

It seems silly that all it was just a seating issue, it seemed solid to me and I didn't want to tighten it too much but really happy it was something so simple.

I'll stop using Kombustor from now on then, I do notice it constantly hammers my cards usage at 95% and I'm assuming Valley is more of a real world test as I'm guessing no games will constantly be giving you such high usage. I'm now I'm the process of configuring the case fans to for that balance between quietness and coolness of the gpu and I've decided to leave Sims 3 on all day whilst I'm at work to see what temps it reaches then I can adjust the fans accordingly. (I know Sims 3 isn't exactly the most demanding game but it's that middle of the ground title that runs at a high fps, so I'm using it as sort of an average.)

I did leave my fans on the rad as intakes in push/pull as I noticed with the side panel on that temp differences had hardly anything in it, but I am concerned about blowing the hot air from the rad into the case so I'll look at that tonight, I could stick it as a rear exhaust but I'd have to buy a new 120mm led fan as I have a 140mm led fan and that won't fit on the rad.

But all in all the cooler is now working and doing its job, it's just fan tweaking left to do, I honestly was losing all hope that it would ever be fixed, appreciate this thread and everyone's help. 


----------



## Trull

So I bought a Kraken G10 bracket a while back together with a 2nd hand Antec 620 AIO... the G10 mounted OK, but unfortunately the 620 rad was a bit banged up and it delivered the same temperatures as the default Dual-X cooler (even a bit worse) + hellish noise.

Buy anyway, since I got some cash to spend now I can buy a new AIO. Problem is that all the G10 reviews that I've seen are paired with the Kraken X40. I would get an X40, but unfortunately my case can only mount 120/240mm rads.

I can go up to the H105, which I read is nice, but I don't know how it will perform on my 7950, and it's probably overkill for it. I want to push the 7950 as far as possible, I already manage 1100/1500 stable with the Dual-X cooler, around 72ºC max. Obviously a solid overclock, but I want lower temps & noise, and higher OC.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trull*
> 
> So I bought a Kraken G10 bracket a while back together with a 2nd hand Antec 620 AIO... the G10 mounted OK, but unfortunately the 620 rad was a bit banged up and it delivered the same temperatures as the default Dual-X cooler (even a bit worse) + hellish noise.
> 
> Buy anyway, since I got some cash to spend now I can buy a new AIO. Problem is that all the G10 reviews that I've seen are paired with the Kraken X40. I would get an X40, but unfortunately my case can only mount 120/240mm rads.
> 
> I can go up to the H105, which I read is nice, but I don't know how it will perform on my 7950, and it's probably overkill for it. I want to push the 7950 as far as possible, I already manage 1100/1500 stable with the Dual-X cooler, around 72ºC max. Obviously a solid overclock, but I want lower temps & noise, and higher OC.
> 
> Any recommendations would be appreciated.


Go with an H55 or X31.


----------



## Trull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Go with an H55 or X31.


Is it just because those are the most popular ones or why? I mean, I know they are the most popular out of the 120mm options, but still.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trull*
> 
> Is it just because those are the most popular ones or why? I mean, I know they are the most popular out of the 120mm options, but still.


usually the cheapest options - as they dont have lots of accessories and most people will have/buy better fans anyway.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trull*
> 
> Is it just because those are the most popular ones or why? I mean, I know they are the most popular out of the 120mm options, but still.


Go with 120 instead of 240, because the price to performance of 240 is not very good. You get the most gains by going with a 120mm.

Go with the H55 if you plan to mount it in the rear, go with X31 if you need longer tubing length and want to place it elsewhere. Make sure you keep the radiator set to exhaust.


----------



## Trull

I think I'm just gonna go with the H75 then, simply because it's only 10€ more than the H55 and it's got dual SP120's.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trull*
> 
> I think I'm just gonna go with the H75 then, simply because it's only 10€ more than the H55 and it's got dual SP120's.


thats the better option for you if you need the fans - i bought the H55 because i already had fans to use with it. but yes the H75 is good value for the included fans.


----------



## Blinky7

I would like your opinion on what differences to expect with different AIOs.
My budget is limited and I am scanning the used market for an AIO to get and pair with the G10 on my 7970, so I want to know for which ones I should look for idealy...

My case allows for a single radiator 120/140, and I assume the best performance would be the NZXT X41. However it is both expensive and too new and zero chance to find used, so that's out...
The corsair units are circulating a lot in the used market locally, and their 5 year warranty makes them attractive to buy second-hand...

So, between the H55/H75/H90 , what difference in performance should I expect?

Being a cooling enthusiast (and coming from a true loop with fullcover waterblock on the 7970) I would pay more for max performance, but I am astonished at the numbers I see here with a mere H55/X31 , that's why I want you ro give me an idea of what difference to expect from a lowly H55 to a H90 and a X41...
I mean, I am seeing figures like 47/55c with 120mm single-thin rads and my custom loop had the 7970 max out at 63c and I am like "if the H55 can get such temps, what more can I expect from a X41?"

So, could you give me a comparative difference from H55-H90-X41 ? (= thin 120mm -> thin 140mm ->thick 140mm) to see if its worth it to search a bit more for the H90/X41 or should I just grab the best deal on a H55 as soon as I find it?


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> I would like your opinion on what differences to expect with different AIOs.
> My budget is limited and I am scanning the used market for an AIO to get and pair with the G10 on my 7970, so I want to know for which ones I should look for idealy...
> 
> My case allows for a single radiator 120/140, and I assume the best performance would be the NZXT X41. However it is both expensive and too new and zero chance to find used, so that's out...
> The corsair units are circulating a lot in the used market locally, and their 5 year warranty makes them attractive to buy second-hand...
> 
> So, between the H55/H75/H90 , what difference in performance should I expect?
> 
> Being a cooling enthusiast (and coming from a true loop with fullcover waterblock on the 7970) I would pay more for max performance, but I am astonished at the numbers I see here with a mere H55/X31 , that's why I want you ro give me an idea of what difference to expect from a lowly H55 to a H90 and a X41...
> I mean, I am seeing figures like 47/55c with 120mm single-thin rads and my custom loop had the 7970 max out at 63c and I am like "if the H55 can get such temps, what more can I expect from a X41?"
> 
> So, could you give me a comparative difference from H55-H90-X41 ? (= thin 120mm -> thin 140mm ->thick 140mm) to see if its worth it to search a bit more for the H90/X41 or should I just grab the best deal on a H55 as soon as I find it?


you could look for an older X40 - same thing (almost - only 30mm rad rather than 38mm with the X41) minus the CAM software with older fans. still a great performer. the H90 will be very similar in performance (basically the same asetek system). the H55/H75 are very similar. if you need fans then go the H75 but if not then the H55 will suffice if you have other fans you plan to use.

I use the H55 on my R9 290 (@ 1050/1300 currently) ive seen temps of 61C max running Middle Earth Shadow of Mordor (hottest running thing i own, beating out my furmark temps) with a H80i SP fan (at 1800rpm) on it. running Borderlands 2 i dont go above 50C. changing it to a Noctua PPC 2000rpm fan for better performance/noise ratio. so using a 7970 your temps will be slightly lower id imagine.

edit - if you can go 140mm you should - should give better temps at lower noise. id have gone the X41 as my choice if i had 140mm space.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> I would like your opinion on what differences to expect with different AIOs.
> My budget is limited and I am scanning the used market for an AIO to get and pair with the G10 on my 7970, so I want to know for which ones I should look for idealy...
> 
> My case allows for a single radiator 120/140, and I assume the best performance would be the NZXT X41. However it is both expensive and too new and zero chance to find used, so that's out...
> The corsair units are circulating a lot in the used market locally, and their 5 year warranty makes them attractive to buy second-hand...
> 
> So, between the H55/H75/H90 , what difference in performance should I expect?
> 
> Being a cooling enthusiast (and coming from a true loop with fullcover waterblock on the 7970) I would pay more for max performance, but I am astonished at the numbers I see here with a mere H55/X31 , that's why I want you ro give me an idea of what difference to expect from a lowly H55 to a H90 and a X41...
> I mean, I am seeing figures like 47/55c with 120mm single-thin rads and my custom loop had the 7970 max out at 63c and I am like "if the H55 can get such temps, what more can I expect from a X41?"
> 
> So, could you give me a comparative difference from H55-H90-X41 ? (= thin 120mm -> thin 140mm ->thick 140mm) to see if its worth it to search a bit more for the H90/X41 or should I just grab the best deal on a H55 as soon as I find it?


I played with an H55 i got as part of a trade on one of my 770s a couple weeks back when I was swapping over from the 3770k/Z77 to 4790k/Z97 setup. Literally had an H55 on one 770 and an H90 on the other 770. I otherwise run H90s on my 770s. The difference I saw was ~ 3 deg C between running the H55 and the H90. With the numbers down as low as they are with this mod, unless you are shooting for absolute lowest temps possible, I do not see the point on spending more for the H90 personally.

The only caveat to my less than scientific comparison was that it was performed on the bench and not in the case.


----------



## ducknukem86

Yesterday i installed the kraken g10 on an Evga 780 Classy. Top temperature with case open and running 3dmark Firestrike is 58º or so. Pretty impressive.

I'm worried because the VRM temperature according to GPUz 0.7.9 says it's 208º max! The average temp was 42º. So i don't know if it's a temp spike or a glitch. Should i be worried? i´m using the 780 Classy Heatplate to protect the vrms


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> Yesterday i installed the kraken g10 on an Evga 780 Classy. Top temperature with case open and running 3dmark Firestrike is 58º or so. Pretty impressive.
> 
> I'm worried because the VRM temperature according to GPUz 0.7.9 says it's 208º max! The average temp was 42º. So i don't know if it's a temp spike or a glitch. Should i be worried? i´m using the 780 Classy Heatplate to protect the vrms


Is the 92mm fan pointed in the right direction? This was an error I made when I first installed it.

I would monitor the VRM temperatures closely. Run some heaven or valley to see if you can re-create this maximum. My instinct tells me its just a glitch, but try and be sure. Do you have anything else to monitor temperatures? Maybe a heat gun or a fan controller with a temperature probe?


----------



## curly haired boy

lol, if 208 C was accurate his card would be toast

i'm pretty sure that's a random inaccurate spike reading


----------



## ducknukem86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> lol, if 208 C was accurate his card would be toast
> 
> i'm pretty sure that's a random inaccurate spike reading


That's what i thought lol!

208 C and my pc would melt!


----------



## riad

Ordered both these since September, either hasn't arrived, i can only assume the world is trying to **** with me now. I have a box with 2 kits for 2 GTX Titans and various fans / accessories. Soo basically, $400 dollars sitting on the floor in my room, waiting for the cheapest part, the thermal tape. Ebay has to be the worst site i've ever used to order things, everything else was bought through amazon.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pcs-Genuine-SEKISUI-5760-Double-Sided-Adhesive-Thermal-Heatsink-Tape-1-x-6-/271530851426?pt=US_Thermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item3f387ffc62

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151110334211


----------



## Vendari

Do you think you could smack a G10 on the MSI 970 or 980 with all the mini heatsinks still on? (VRAM & VRMs)


----------



## DVIELIS

Got my G10 yesterday. Jaay







Still waiting for heatsinks for VRAM, core temps are pretty good, not mentioning it runs so much quiter than the reference cooler on my R9 290. Happy to be a part of G10 users. Cheers!


----------



## mrzoo

So I'm guessing g10 will not work with ga gtx 970 since vrm are in front by IO. I did see a thread on this site about modding a water cooler with zip ties right to the pcb to cool chip then just adding hear sinks to vrm and vram and getting a fan to blow on card some how


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Since I've seen others post pictures of their setups, I figure I'll post some of mine:


----------



## DarkReign32

I might as well post this here, seeing as how I'm a member.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1411500/official-evga-classified-owners-club/10140#post_21912782


----------



## RocketAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Since I've seen others post pictures of their setups, I figure I'll post some of mine:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol taking my avatar photo eh?


----------



## anti-duck

I haven't got my new GPU yet but I'm gathering the parts that I'm going to use to cool it







I'm going to be getting an MSI Gaming R9 290, planning to stick a Kraken G10 on there with a Noctua NF-B9 to replace the stock 92mm fan and Gelid Icy Vision enhancement kit, Kraken X40 with 2 NF-P14S in push-pull. Looking for some thermal tape and VRAM heatsiniks now; any recommendations?









And then it's just going to be a case of figuring out where to put the radiators for both X40's


----------



## falcon26

Having this on my MSI Gaming 780 Ti certainly has been great. I rarely see load temps above 50-55 Idle is like 25. And noise level has also gone down....


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> I haven't got my new GPU yet but I'm gathering the parts that I'm going to use to cool it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be getting an MSI Gaming R9 290, planning to stick a Kraken G10 on there with a Noctua NF-B9 to replace the stock 92mm fan and Gelid Icy Vision enhancement kit, Kraken X40 with 2 NF-P14S in push-pull. Looking for some thermal tape and VRAM heatsiniks now; any recommendations?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then it's just going to be a case of figuring out where to put the radiators for both X40's


you could keep the MSI midplate for VRM/VRAM cooling, apparently that does a pretty reasonable job of it (i dont own one so cant give you numbers but there are photos on this thread so probably numbers somewhere).

this would simplify your mod somewhat.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_335&products_id=4712

this stuff seems to get good recommendations from people - i havent received my gelid kit to test it with yet.


----------



## falcon26

Exactly, with the MSI gaming series of cards they have a heat plate already on the ram and vrm's. No need for those little heat sinks that seem to always fall off anyway. My temps on my vrm's are actually better now then when they had the stock cooling on it...


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Exactly, with the MSI gaming series of cards they have a heat plate already on the ram and vrm's. No need for those little heat sinks that seem to always fall off anyway. My temps on my vrm's are actually better now then when they had the stock cooling on it...


yeh almost makes me wish id gone for the MSI Gaming just to help make the G10 mod easier. its gunna be a whole pain doing the vrm heatsink padding etc.


----------



## falcon26

That is the exact reason I went with the msi version. Because I knew if it didn't have that heat plate it would be a major pain in the butt to install. With those version its very very easy....


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

hey guys

ive found a bit of a bargain on a XSPC 290 backplate

wondering if it would be possible to swap this in instead of the NZXT bracket (using the NZXT screws through the bracket) with some thermal pads to replace the NZXT bracket?

the only other problem i can think of is how to secure the other screws of the backplate to the card without the waterblock....i would need some M3 nuts or so - or some shorter screws with appropriate nuts on them.

ideas/thoughts?


----------



## anti-duck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> you could keep the MSI midplate for VRM/VRAM cooling, apparently that does a pretty reasonable job of it (i dont own one so cant give you numbers but there are photos on this thread so probably numbers somewhere).
> 
> this would simplify your mod somewhat.
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_335&products_id=4712
> 
> this stuff seems to get good recommendations from people - i havent received my gelid kit to test it with yet.


Yeah, I'd already be removing the shroud, heatsink and backplate with a heavy heart lol







It's probably one of the best dual fan cooling systems on an aftermarket R9 290 but it still doesn't leave as much overclocking headroom as the G10 with a decent AIO + heatsinks for the VRM's







Would the G10 + Kraken X40 fit on an R9 290 with the MSI midplate though? It honestly doesn't look like it would all fit together.


----------



## ducknukem86

what are your experiences using a corsair h70. Saw one really cheap and i'd like to watercool my second 780


----------



## Abscent

I was just wondering if someone could tell me in mm or inches how thick is the g10 and card when installed together on a 780 or similar card? Thanks


----------



## Hova

Hey all.
I wanted to post here to say what I am using.
(No pictures currently as my system is extremely dusty







)

I am using a MSI R9 280x V1.2 (V277-067R). So it is the none reference design PCB.

-Corsair H55.
-When I was looking in to my card I saw that most 280x and 7970 use a copper shim but I didn't seem to need one.

I had a small issue on installing with one of the nuts on the back plate wasn't very well cut, so I had to use a pair of pliers to tighten it up. Also I had to file out the A holes on the bracket it self as the screws were extremely tight.
I have yet to use heat sinks on the VRMs and VRAM yet, though I currently still have the faceplate on which I guess is giving it some passive cooling (I'd like to add that I can't monitor my VRM temps on my card so I'm unsure what they are at). I shall add heat sinks when I get more money







.

When I first bought my card I was seeing temps anywhere from 85-90c easily, so before I decided to get a G10 I removed the heat sink and changed the thermal paste this brought the temps down to about 75-79C which was better. But I wanted it to be lower. So I tried to look up as much as I could about fitting the G10 to my graphics card but sadly there wasn't much to go on. So I took a gamble and bought a H55 and Kraken G10 (I thought I could use the H55 on my CPU if it doesn't work). I was extremely happy to say apart from the two issues I stated I didn't have any others and it went to together rather easily. Once all installed and fitted in the case I booted up instantly cracked up MSI After burn to read my temps as I feared the worst as you do







. I was happy to see the first boot temps where around 27C. So I cracked up a game that I use to get up to 75C, after 30 minute I was at between 52-51C which is a huge difference so I am very pleased.

After I give my system a good clean I shall post a few images









So all in all I'm very happy with the G10.

Thanks
Matt


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hova*
> 
> Hey all.
> I wanted to post here to say what I am using.
> (No pictures currently as my system is extremely dusty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I am using a MSI R9 280x V1.2 (V277-067R). So it is the none reference design PCB.
> 
> -Corsair H55.
> -When I was looking in to my card I saw that most 280x and 7970 use a copper shim but I didn't seem to need one.
> 
> I had a small issue on installing with one of the nuts on the back plate wasn't very well cut, so I had to use a pair of pliers to tighten it up. Also I had to file out the A holes on the bracket it self as the screws were extremely tight.
> I have yet to use heat sinks on the VRMs and VRAM yet, though I currently still have the faceplate on which I guess is giving it some passive cooling (I'd like to add that I can't monitor my VRM temps on my card so I'm unsure what they are at). I shall add heat sinks when I get more money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> When I first bought my card I was seeing temps anywhere from 85-90c easily, so before I decided to get a G10 I removed the heat sink and changed the thermal paste this brought the temps down to about 75-79C which was better. But I wanted it to be lower. So I tried to look up as much as I could about fitting the G10 to my graphics card but sadly there wasn't much to go on. So I took a gamble and bought a H55 and Kraken G10 (I thought I could use the H55 on my CPU if it doesn't work). I was extremely happy to say apart from the two issues I stated I didn't have any others and it went to together rather easily. Once all installed and fitted in the case I booted up instantly cracked up MSI After burn to read my temps as I feared the worst as you do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was happy to see the first boot temps where around 27C. So I cracked up a game that I use to get up to 75C, after 30 minute I was at between 52-51C which is a huge difference so I am very pleased.
> 
> After I give my system a good clean I shall post a few images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So all in all I'm very happy with the G10.
> 
> Thanks
> Matt


Awesome to hear that! Another happy G10 owner. Those are some awesome temperatures coming from such a heat monster card.


----------



## riad

Which of these 2 Adhesives is better? Yes i know it's permanent but i have no intentions to put back the stock cooler on my Titans. It's for the heat sinks (VRAM, VRM) not the core.

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Alumina-Adhesive-Compliant/dp/B001JYQ9WO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413498075&sr=8-2&keywords=thermal+adhesive

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-Tube/dp/B0009IQ1BU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413498075&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+adhesive


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> Which of these 2 Adhesives is better? Yes i know it's permanent but i have no intentions to put back the stock cooler on my Titans. It's for the heat sinks (VRAM, VRM) not the core.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Alumina-Adhesive-Compliant/dp/B001JYQ9WO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413498075&sr=8-2&keywords=thermal+adhesive
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-Tube/dp/B0009IQ1BU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413498075&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+adhesive


I think those are the same thing...


----------



## riad

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm
> 
> http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm


Riad, I'm telling you man. Don't go the permanent route. I know you have no intention of removing them, but if something unforeseen happens, you are going to wish you didn't go permanent. I offered to personally ship you some Sekisui thermal tape, let me do that.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Riad, I'm telling you man. Don't go the permanent route. I know you have no intention of removing them, but if something unforeseen happens, you are going to wish you didn't go permanent. I offered to personally ship you some Sekisui thermal tape, let me do that.


let me just cross-post this:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1330897/official-gtx-660-non-ti-owners-club/5650#post_23006717

you don't want this to happen ^^


----------



## riad

I kinda don't have a choice anymore yo. I've ordered twice from 2 different ebay sellers, the first package never arrive and the replacement he sent didn't either, USPS at it's best. The second buyer labeled it as shipped but never shipped it and when i asked for the tracking info he never responded. I've used most of my patience on those 2 ebay sellers and just decided to go the adhesive route. The only unforseen problem that could occur is the AIO going bad and it's like 60 bucks to replace that so not much of a problem there. I've tried to source the tape from other places but it's just in my opinion too stressful of a problem to deal with. All this in mind, my $350 worth of cooling parts for my titans are on the floor just derping.

You said you want to mail me some tape and that kinda kindness is overwhelming in my opinion but if ebay packages keep getting lost in transit, i'd rather not have yours disappear as well. I know you said you had 1 and a half strips left as well, that would only cover piece of 1 card since i'm using 12 Copper and 9 Aluminium heatsinks for 1 card. I really appreciate your offer but i mean, i'm left in a kinda difficult / desperate situation. If someone on amazon was selling it, hey i'd buy it immediately but i've already purchased the adhesive + the fan adapters for the GPU, which is pretty sick imo.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> I kinda don't have a choice anymore yo. I've ordered twice from 2 different ebay sellers, the first package never arrive and the replacement he sent didn't either, USPS at it's best. The second buyer labeled it as shipped but never shipped it and when i asked for the tracking info he never responded. I've used most of my patience on those 2 ebay sellers and just decided to go the adhesive route. The only unforseen problem that could occur is the AIO going bad and it's like 60 bucks to replace that so not much of a problem there. I've tried to source the tape from other places but it's just in my opinion too stressful of a problem to deal with. All this in mind, my $350 worth of cooling parts for my titans are on the floor just derping.
> 
> You said you want to mail me some tape and that kinda kindness is overwhelming in my opinion but if ebay packages keep getting lost in transit, i'd rather not have yours disappear as well. I know you said you had 1 and a half strips left as well, that would only cover piece of 1 card since i'm using 12 Copper and 9 Aluminium heatsinks for 1 card. I really appreciate your offer but i mean, i'm left in a kinda difficult / desperate situation. If someone on amazon was selling it, hey i'd buy it immediately but i've already purchased the adhesive + the fan adapters for the GPU, which is pretty sick imo.


Your card can break. There are a lot of things that can go wrong, not just a pump failing. If you go permanent, that's it. There is no turning back, and you don't know what could happen in the future. It is best to not regret it later. Pair that with VRM and VRAM heat sinks are not necessary, even for a naked card. It is purely precautionary.

Try using the thermal tape that comes pre-applied to the heatsinks you have already. If they start to fall off, oh well, keep looking. But to go permanent is not a good way to do this.

Try this item:
http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-9495MP-0-71-60yd-3M/dp/B00K6E5BG8/ref=sr_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1413533367&sr=8-35&keywords=double+sided+adhesive+thermal+tape


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Your card can break. There are a lot of things that can go wrong, not just a pump failing. If you go permanent, that's it. There is no turning back, and you don't know what could happen in the future. It is best to not regret it later. *Pair that with VRM and VRAM heat sinks are not necessary, even for a naked card. It is purely precautionary.*
> 
> Try using the thermal tape that comes pre-applied to the heatsinks you have already. If they start to fall off, oh well, keep looking. But to go permanent is not a good way to do this.
> 
> Try this item:
> http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-9495MP-0-71-60yd-3M/dp/B00K6E5BG8/ref=sr_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1413533367&sr=8-35&keywords=double+sided+adhesive+thermal+tape


Just sharing my experience...

I'm not saying you're wrong, and I know people are running naked cards with the G10 (no Vram or VRM heatsinks) without any issues. But I suspect the lack of Vram cooling is what *might* have killed my windforce 7950 after I'd been running it with the G10 for a couple months. It was a strong performing card, as far as 7950's go and even though I had it overclocked, it wasn't anything crazy (couldn't be due to being voltage locked) and was stable.

I don't really know for sure, but it got to the point where, even at stock clocks, any kind of load on the card would result in freezing, then dropping the display signal and the PC would restart by itself. After that, the PC would only power on, but would not POST.

Again, I'm not certain it was lack of Vram cooling that did it in, maybe it was some other component. I know it wasn't the VRMs because it had a rather beefy heatsink pre-installed with the stock cooler. But going forward I'm definitely going to make sure the VRMs and Vram both have some sort of extra cooling measures in place before I use the G10 again.

Just some food for thought.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

So I picked up a 970 to play with. nzxt says that there compatible but the vrms are on the opposite side of the card lol. it would be the same way with the 670pcb when it was short and had the vrms on the opposite side. So im wondering if anybody has a 970/670 with the vrms on the oppostie side.? since the fan of the g10 wont do anything wondering if passive heatsinks would surfice?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Just sharing my experience...
> 
> I'm not saying you're wrong, and I know people are running naked cards with the G10 (no Vram or VRM heatsinks) without any issues. But I suspect the lack of Vram cooling is what *might* have killed my windforce 7950 after I'd been running it with the G10 for a couple months. It was a strong performing card, as far as 7950's go and even though I had it overclocked, it wasn't anything crazy (couldn't be due to being voltage locked) and was stable.
> 
> I don't really know for sure, but it got to the point where, even at stock clocks, any kind of load on the card would result in freezing, then dropping the display signal and the PC would restart by itself. After that, the PC would only power on, but would not POST.
> 
> Again, I'm not certain it was lack of Vram cooling that did it in, maybe it was some other component. I know it wasn't the VRMs because it had a rather beefy heatsink pre-installed with the stock cooler. But going forward I'm definitely going to make sure the VRMs and Vram both have some sort of extra cooling measures in place before I use the G10 again.
> 
> Just some food for thought.


Thank you for that story, I will definitely keep it in consideration in the future. Did you ever try re-installing the stock heat sink to see if that fixed the problem?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Thank you for that story, I will definitely keep it in consideration in the future. Did you ever try re-installing the stock heat sink to see if that fixed the problem?


Yes, I did try the stock cooler again, but nothing. It's dead.









It's still under warranty (for another 2 years) and I have an RMA ticket from gigabyte, so I'm gonna send it in and see what they do. If they honor it and send me a replacement, then at least I will have a backup GPU.









I'd been thinking about upgrading to an R9-290 for a while now, so it was convenient that my 7950 died just before Nvidia dropped the 900 series and AMD slashed prices on the 290's.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Yes, I did try the stock cooler again, but nothing. It's dead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's still under warranty (for another 2 years) and I have an RMA ticket from gigabyte, so I'm gonna send it in and see what they do. If they honor it and send me a replacement, then at least I will have a backup GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd been thinking about upgrading to an R9-290 for a while now, so it was convenient that my 7950 died just before Nvidia dropped the 900 series and AMD slashed prices on the 290's.


Yea, send it in ASAP. Also see if Gigabyte will tell you the cause of death. I'm really curious if it was overheating. I just have a hard time believing that the VRAM overheated because with the AIO directly on the Die, the VRAM modules around the die, they don't get hot at all, even when overclocked.

A backup GPU would be nice, I've even been patrolling craigslist for one lately just in case. That is convenient that your card died right when all this new stuff is released and prices are slashed. The hard part now is deciding what you want.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yea, send it in ASAP. Also see if Gigabyte will tell you the cause of death. I'm really curious if it was overheating. I just have a hard time believing that the VRAM overheated because with the AIO directly on the Die, the VRAM modules around the die, they don't get hot at all, even when overclocked.
> 
> A backup GPU would be nice, I've even been patrolling craigslist for one lately just in case. That is convenient that your card died right when all this new stuff is released and prices are slashed. The hard part now is deciding what you want.


I have a hard time believing the Vram modules overheated as well, but I don't what else to point the finger at...? It's the only part that wasn't being actively cooled by anything, besides maybe a little wind from the VRM fan on the G10. GPU core temps with the G10 rarely ever broke low to mid 50's and the VRMs were fine too.

Indeed, I'd really like to know what happened as well. Maybe a bad cap or something...? I'll put a note in with the RMA to inform me of the cause of death, but I suspect they probably have a series of quick tests they perform to show whether the card is dead or not and don't bother spending time to determine what failed. But we shall see...

Oh, I actually already have a new card.







Picked up an HIS IceQ X2 R9-290 for $285.







And it's a great candidate for the G10 too - Separate dedicated VRM headsink and heatspreader plate covering all the Vram modules all on a reference PCB with upgraded components (solid caps etc.). Despite how it looks, the IceQ X2 air cooler is actually quite efficient and quiet for a 290. I almost don't want to take it apart... lol. Here's their webpage for it with some nice clear pics; http://www.hisdigital.com/ca/product2-790.shtml

Base clocks are 947 GPU and 1250 memory, but I've already nudged that up to 1000 GPU and 1300 memory with afterburner for nice little bump in performance.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I have a hard time believing the Vram modules overheated as well, but I don't what else to point the finger at...? It's the only part that wasn't being actively cooled by anything, besides maybe a little wind from the VRM fan on the G10. GPU core temps with the G10 rarely ever broke low to mid 50's and the VRMs were fine too.
> 
> Indeed, I'd really like to know what happened as well. Maybe a bad cap or something...? I'll put a note in with the RMA to inform me of the cause of death, but I suspect they probably have a series of quick tests they perform to show whether the card is dead or not and don't bother spending time to determine what failed. But we shall see...
> 
> Oh, I actually already have a new card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up an HIS IceQ X2 R9-290 for $285.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it's a great candidate for the G10 too - Separate dedicated VRM headsink and heatspreader plate covering all the Vram modules all on a reference PCB with upgraded components (solid caps etc.). Despite how it looks, the IceQ X2 air cooler is actually quite efficient and quiet for a 290. I almost don't want to take it apart... lol. Here's their webpage for it with some nice clear pics; http://www.hisdigital.com/ca/product2-790.shtml
> 
> Base clocks are 947 GPU and 1250 memory, but I've already nudged that up to 1000 GPU and 1300 memory with afterburner for nice little bump in performance.


Dang, thats a really nice OC. I also like the look of the HIS cooler, its so unique, and it looks slim, which is a nice change from these massive cards we've been seeing lately. If you already have a G10 and AIO laying around, hard to not use it.

Maybe a bad cap, it could be. My EVGA 780 died when I had first got it. It was a terrible card. ASIC score of 63.1%, the lowest ever recorded ASIC score for a 780 on OCN. The thing would not overclock at all, period. No matter how much voltage I added, it wouldn't do anything more than +50 on the core, and I couldn't touch memory at all otherwise artifacts. After say.. 3 months of using it, I was playing BF4 one day, and then boom, RPG explodes in my face and my screen goes pinkish brown. Tried to reset the computer and would get white and black lines all across my screen. I sent it in for RMA, which was a breeze with EVGA, customer for life after the way they treated me. Anyways, they don't tell you what went wrong with the card, they just give it a pass or fail and ship you your new card. So, things like that can happen. To this day I still wonder what broke. Its one of the great mysteries in my life. I'm so happy with my new card, ASIC score of 75.4%, and it does +100Mhz on the Core and +250Mhz on the memory without adding any voltage.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Dang, thats a really nice OC. I also like the look of the HIS cooler, its so unique, and it looks slim, which is a nice change from these massive cards we've been seeing lately. If you already have a G10 and AIO laying around, hard to not use it.
> 
> Maybe a bad cap, it could be. My EVGA 780 died when I had first got it. It was a terrible card. ASIC score of 63.1%, the lowest ever recorded ASIC score for a 780 on OCN. The thing would not overclock at all, period. No matter how much voltage I added, it wouldn't do anything more than +50 on the core, and I couldn't touch memory at all otherwise artifacts. After say.. 3 months of using it, I was playing BF4 one day, and then boom, RPG explodes in my face and my screen goes pinkish brown. Tried to reset the computer and would get white and black lines all across my screen. I sent it in for RMA, which was a breeze with EVGA, customer for life after the way they treated me. Anyways, they don't tell you what went wrong with the card, they just give it a pass or fail and ship you your new card. So, things like that can happen. To this day I still wonder what broke. Its one of the great mysteries in my life. I'm so happy with my new card, ASIC score of 75.4%, and it does +100Mhz on the Core and +250Mhz on the memory without adding any voltage.


Yeah, it's definitely unique looking.







Don't let the pics fool you. It is slim in that it's a true dual-slot, but it's also very long at 297mm and quite tall. But all that extra cooling surface area does a good job of pulling heat away.

The OC was just a quick little bump intended to be stable and used daily. This card is voltage unlocked, but I haven't bothered trying to push it further and don't really plan to. Just checked the ASIC score (never knew about this before) and it's 82.8%. I assume this is good? Not really sure what it means...

The G10 is sitting in my PC parts drawer taunting me, but I also like the look and performance of the air cooler on the HIS... Decisions...









That's too bad about your first 780. That's one thing about PC components like this. They're so complicated and complex with hundreds or even thousands of individual parts, the odds of something failing or going wrong have to be higher than normal. Just about everywhere you look, there are forums of people complaining about problems with brand new graphics cards. I guess it's somewhat the luck of the draw. But that's great that EVGA looks after their customers and got you a good card in the end.


----------



## wgizmo

This is my 980


----------



## mrzoo

2 bad that can't be done with a 970


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> 2 bad that can't be done with a 970


Nobody here has tried the G10 on a 970 yet?


----------



## mrzoo

You can't most of cards or all vrm are at the front by IO


----------



## wgizmo

You can do it on 970 to!


----------



## mrzoo

Most 970 I've seen vrm are in front and not under kraken fan


----------



## vulcan78

Hi everyone, I am ready to pull the trigger on a pair of G10's to be used in conjunction with the mid-plates of my ACX coolers (excellent VRM cooling solution), but I have a concern as I am running an air-cooler (Phanteks PH-TC14PE) which is dimensionally identical to Noctua's NH-D14. Clearance between the primary GPU and the air-cooler is in question, but right now a back-plate clears no problem with maybe 2 mm of room remaining.

Is anyone here running a G10 in conjunction with an air-cooler?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## vulcan78

I also wanted to thank "Faceman" for the wealth of valuable information he has selflessly provided, I am sure he visits here occasionally:

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/232654-kraken-g10-help/


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Oh, I actually already have a new card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up an HIS IceQ X2 R9-290 for $285.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it's a great candidate for the G10 too - Separate dedicated VRM headsink and heatspreader plate covering all the Vram modules all on a reference PCB with upgraded components (solid caps etc.). Despite how it looks, the IceQ X2 air cooler is actually quite efficient and quiet for a 290. I almost don't want to take it apart... lol. Here's their webpage for it with some nice clear pics; http://www.hisdigital.com/ca/product2-790.shtml
> 
> Base clocks are 947 GPU and 1250 memory, but I've already nudged that up to 1000 GPU and 1300 memory with afterburner for nice little bump in performance.


That cooler is efficient until you go crossfire. I had a single iceq X2 290x that was topping out ~75C at 40% fan speed. I was ok with that and I picked up a second one and in crossfire all that hot air off the bottom gpu gets blown directly onto the top card.

I went with the G10 because my top card was hitting 94C while the bottom card stayed around 75C. My board has that "extra" pci slot/space as well. Its still not enough room for the top and bottom card to breathe.

I honestly can't believe these temps are considered safe operating temperatures for anything except a bbq grille/oven...

edit: weird, somehow quoted person from 5 pages ago.


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I also wanted to thank "Faceman" for the wealth of valuable information he has selflessly provided, I am sure he visits here occasionally:
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/232654-kraken-g10-help/


Bahaha I'm the guy who cut off the "4 prongs" in the post he linked. I just wanted to add that. *flys away*


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkReign32*
> 
> Bahaha I'm the guy who cut off the "4 prongs" in the post he linked. I just wanted to add that. *flys away*


Lol, I already have the 20x20x1 mm copper shims on hand as I was going to go the G10 route a few months ago but then started looking into a full blown water-loop. I am actually really really excited to get the G10's going, part of my hesitation and diverted interest into water-blocks was the perceived absence of VRM cooling. But as has been shown, if you use either Asus' DCUII VRM plate or EVGA' ACX mid-plate in conjunction with G10's 90mm fan sitting directly over it you actually get significantly lower VRM temps vs. the aforementioned reference coolers. This makes sense as with the ACX cooler, the airflow from the fans is impeded by the cooler itself whereas with the G10 there is unobstructed airflow between the fan and the VRM mid-plate.

"Faceman" is reporting peak GPU temps of 48 C and VRM temps as obtained with a temp probe of 54 C, which is FAR FAR lower than the 82 C Guru3D reported with a temp probe shot at the VRM area of an ACX cooled 780 Ti: http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/evga_geforce_gtx_780_ti_sc_acx_superclock_review,9.html

I ordered:

2x G10 (white)
2x Corsair H55
1x Cosmos aluminum VGA heat-sinks
2x Gelid VGA to PWM adapter
1x Gelid Extreme TIM

I will be using the existing Noiseblocker E-Loop B-12P's in conjunction with the included H55 fans push-pull out of the case: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGtlksj-Fdc

I am actually super stoked, since picking up the ROG Swift and enjoying 3D gaming at 1440p I have been witnessing sustained primary temps of around 75C with most games as the utilization is typically about 75-99% most of the time. Unigine Valley gets the temps up to 90C primary, 80 C secondary at 1280 core / 1851 memory @ 1.212v! This is in an Air 540, second in airflow only to a test-bench, with an aggressive fan algorithm via Precision X (ramping up from 60% RPM at 30C to 100% RPM at 65 C). Not only are my cards not running very cool but the case gets loud. I looked extensively into a custom loop but due to the fact that I would need to remove the existing air-cooler that route would run me at least $600 for only marginally better performance.

I will probably need to do another build update vid as this is a fairly substantial mod.


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Lol, I already have the 20x20x1 mm copper shims on hand as I was going to go the G10 route a few months ago but then started looking into a full blown water-loop. I am actually really really excited to get the G10's going, part of my hesitation and diverted interest into water-blocks was the perceived absence of VRM cooling. But as has been shown, if you use either Asus' DCUII VRM plate or EVGA' ACX mid-plate in conjunction with G10's 90mm fan sitting directly over it you actually get significantly lower VRM temps vs. the aforementioned reference coolers. This makes sense as with the ACX cooler, the airflow from the fans is impeded by the cooler itself whereas with the G10 there is unobstructed airflow between the fan and the VRM mid-plate.
> 
> "Faceman" is reporting peak GPU temps of 48 C and VRM temps as obtained with a temp probe of 54 C, which is FAR FAR lower than the 82 C Guru3D reported with a temp probe shot at the VRM area of an ACX cooled 780 Ti: http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/evga_geforce_gtx_780_ti_sc_acx_superclock_review,9.html
> 
> I ordered:
> 
> 2x G10 (white)
> 2x Corsair H55
> 1x Cosmos aluminum VGA heat-sinks
> 2x Gelid VGA to PWM adapter
> 1x Gelid Extreme TIM
> 
> I will be using the existing Noiseblocker E-Loop B-12P's in conjunction with the included H55 fans push-pull out of the case: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGtlksj-Fdc
> 
> I am actually super stoked, since picking up the ROG Swift and enjoying 3D gaming at 1440p I have been witnessing sustained primary temps of around 75C with most games as the utilization is typically about 75-99% most of the time. Unigine Valley gets the temps up to 90C primary, 80 C secondary at 1280 core / 1851 memory @ 1.212v! This is in an Air 540, second in airflow only to a test-bench, with an aggressive fan algorithm via Precision X (ramping up from 60% RPM at 30C to 100% RPM at 65 C). Not only are my cards not running very cool but the case gets loud. I looked extensively into a custom loop but due to the fact that I would need to remove the existing air-cooler that route would run me at least $600 for only marginally better performance.
> 
> I will probably need to do another build update vid as this is a fairly substantial mod.


I have the G10 installed in an A540 as well. You're going to be extremely satisfied with it. I recently moved the H55 to the rear and added a second fan. Temps are topping at 51C with 1.28v on the core. That's after 5 runs using Valley.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I also wanted to thank "Faceman" for the wealth of valuable information he has selflessly provided, I am sure he visits here occasionally:
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/232654-kraken-g10-help/


That would be me! Faceman was taken on this forum.

Happy to see that you found my input helpful, and it sounds like you have purchased everything necessary to make this happen. I'm excited to see the finished product!


----------



## wgizmo

Guys there is no need to cool vrms or memory on 970 using g10! you can use it and fan will chill pcb anyway. This cards run sow low temps. Anyway my 980 never go above 37C while benching! L O L


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k3mist*
> 
> That cooler is efficient until you go crossfire. I had a single iceq X2 290x that was topping out ~75C at 40% fan speed. I was ok with that and I picked up a second one and in crossfire all that hot air off the bottom gpu gets blown directly onto the top card.
> 
> I went with the G10 because my top card was hitting 94C while the bottom card stayed around 75C. My board has that "extra" pci slot/space as well. Its still not enough room for the top and bottom card to breathe.
> 
> I honestly can't believe these temps are considered safe operating temperatures for anything except a bbq grille/oven...
> 
> edit: weird, somehow quoted person from 5 pages ago.


Well, I'm running a mini-ITX system in Fractal Node 304, so I won't be doing any crossfire anyways.


----------



## vulcan78

One more question with the G10's, I take it I will need a PWM splitter, for both the G10 fan and the two for the radiator, will this suffice?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162059&cm_re=pwm_splitter-_-12-162-059-_-Product


----------



## Vendari

maybe for the 2 PWM fans on the rad, if you're using the stock G10 fan you can (and i think should) just find a fan header on the mainboard or use a molex adaptor.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> maybe for the 2 PWM fans on the rad, if you're using the stock G10 fan you can (and i think should) just find a fan header on the mainboard or use a molex adaptor.


I intend to run this 3 to 1 PWM splitter: Silverstone Tek All Black Sleeved One-To-Three PWM Fan Splitter (CPF02) off of this VGA to PWM adapter going to each GPU so that I can control all 3 fans (1 on G10, 2 per rad) via EVGA Precision X as "Faceman" recommends here: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/232654-kraken-g10-help/


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I intend to run this 3 to 1 PWM splitter: Silverstone Tek All Black Sleeved One-To-Three PWM Fan Splitter (CPF02) off of this VGA to PWM adapter going to each GPU so that I can control all 3 fans (1 on G10, 2 per rad) via EVGA Precision X as "Faceman" recommends here: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/232654-kraken-g10-help/


I don't think its a good idea to run more than 1 fan off of the VGA's header. Use the adapter to connect the 92mm fan, and then get a 2-way or 4-way fan splitter and have the radiator fans off of motherboard fan headers.


----------



## Vendari

I agree with Pinko... I myself have only one PWM fan on my GPU header.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I don't think its a good idea to run more than 1 fan off of the VGA's header. Use the adapter to connect the 92mm fan, and then get a 2-way or 4-way fan splitter and have the radiator fans off of motherboard fan headers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> I agree with Pinko... I myself have only one PWM fan on my GPU header.


I'm just curious, why is it a bad idea to run all of the fans off the VGA header?


----------



## k3mist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I'm just curious, why is it a bad idea to run all of the fans off the VGA header?


Because max watts/amps on the header. Without knowing the specs on the header, you risk frying something.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k3mist*
> 
> Because max watts/amps on the header. Without knowing the specs on the header, you risk frying something.


Ah, gotcha, thanks for the elaboration. Ok I will simply use the existing fan headers for the radiator fans. I was hoping to run the splitter off of the VGA header as then I could control all three fans via Precision X's fan control. I suppose now I will just have to keep the fans at 60% RPM or so constant, any higher and the noise gets a bit obnoxious. Hopefully the temps are ok at that RPM, will have to wait and see.


----------



## Vendari

You won't have to worry about the noise from the 90mm stock fan, you cant hear it unless it's right next to your ear.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> You won't have to worry about the noise from the 90mm stock fan, you cant hear it unless it's right next to your ear.


Yeah I wasn't really worried about the noise from the G10 fan, its the 4 120mm fans in push-pull that I am slightly worried about. In order to have decent temps I imagine they will need to run at no less than 60% RPM constant. At anything above 50% RPM there is definitely a good bit of fan-drone going on so I'd like to keep the RPM about there, definitely no higher than 60%. I have to run the front bottom fans at 75% right now to feed and evacuate the EVGA ACX coolers fresh air and hot air respectively; the din of fan-drone is only bearable with my Astro A50's on and even then, during moments of inaction I can hear them.

Part of my motivation to go the AIO route is not only to drop the temps, but to also cut down on the noise. Hopefully running both the included 120mm fan on the H55's and the existing Noiseblocker B-12P's in push-pull will provide adequate airflow across the radiators at 50% RPM while still keeping peak load temps under 55C....


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Yeah I wasn't really worried about the noise from the G10 fan, its the 4 120mm fans in push-pull that I am slightly worried about. In order to have decent temps I imagine they will need to run at no less than 60% RPM constant. At anything above 50% RPM there is definitely a good bit of fan-drone going on so I'd like to keep the RPM about there, definitely no higher than 60%. I have to run the front bottom fans at 75% right now to feed and evacuate the EVGA ACX coolers fresh air and hot air respectively; the din of fan-drone is only bearable with my Astro A50's on and even then, during moments of inaction I can hear them.
> 
> Part of my motivation to go the AIO route is not only to drop the temps, but to also cut down on the noise. Hopefully running both the included 120mm fan on the H55's and the existing Noiseblocker B-12P's in push-pull will provide adequate airflow across the radiators at 50% RPM while still keeping peak load temps under 55C....


That should be easily achieved given your specs and case fans. Just be sure to run the H55 pumps at or near 100%. To save fan headers, you could even plug them in through molex to have them run at 100% constantly.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> That should be easily achieved given your specs and case fans. Just be sure to run the H55 pumps at or near 100%. To save fan headers, you could even plug them in through molex to have them run at 100% constantly.


Thanks for the suggestion friend, I didn't know that you could burn out your fan headers.


----------



## Vendari

I burned out my Corsair 600T's Fan header once... I put 3 fans with high amp req on it.... >.< had to learn the hard way.


----------



## vulcan78

The case had a fan header? I thought those were only on the motherboard. Thanks for saving me the headache.


----------



## Vendari

D'o! *facepalm* ... I meant Fan controller... but it's the same concept.


----------



## vulcan78

Oh I see, yeah same concept. What kind of temps are you seeing now with the G10('s)? My parts are trickling in, I should have them up and running early next week. They couldn't arrive sooner, playing Max Payne 3 at 2560x1440 3D last night I was seeing sustained temps of 75C and 65C primary and secondary at 1254 core / 1850 memory @ 1.212v. This game absolutely requires this kind of OC, I still see 45FPS (3D) in certain areas, I can't imagine what it would be at say 1050 core.

Can't wait to see those temps drop down to 50 and 40 C primary and secondary with a similar drop in VRM temps (will be using ACX mid-plate)! Should be within the realm of possibility even with H55's as I will be adding the existing Noiseblocker B-12's to them which have an unparalleled noise/performance ratio (yes even better than Noctua): http://www.overclock.net/t/1389355/fan-testing-round-12-begins-thanks-to-cpachris-and-prymus-nb-e-loop-sp120-nf-f12-cougar-vortex-pwm-vortex-red-led-pirahna-ap-45

Gonna set all the case fans, including the rad fans, to 50% and hope for the best. The fan drone has really started to annoy me as of late for some reason, at 50% they are nearly inaudible.


----------



## vulcan78

Oh and I wanted to say, a good deal of my excitement around the AIO cooling solution is that unlike expensive water-blocks the G10's can be migrated to future GPU's. Having an SLI cooling solution with a total cost outlay under $200 pays for itself when you subtract the difference between reference and non-reference GPU's; i.e. say I upgrade to 980/1080 Ti in a few years, I can simply purchase the reference model instead of say EVGA's ACX 2.0 offering and save about $100 a card and still have superior cooling.


----------



## ducknukem86

I just installed Kraken G10s with H55 Corsairs on my two Evga 780 Classifieds. I used a 1.2 mm thick copper shim on both to preserve the midplate that cools the vrms. When i have a single one running my max temp was 63 degrees C. Now that i have them on SLI the top one reaches 68 degrees average and the bottom one 63 degrees while playing Tomb Raider with everything maxed out for an hour. I have remounted the bracket several times, so i think it comes down to the shims not being very good.

Both Radiators are in the front of my H440 case. I think that part of the problem is that the heat on the front of the case doesn't go away. Still, when the case is open my temps hover around 63 degrees. This is super high compared to what other people are reporting.


----------



## mrzoo

Might be selling my g10 and h55


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> I just installed Kraken G10s with H55 Corsairs on my two Evga 780 Classifieds. I used a 1.2 mm thick copper shim on both to preserve the midplate that cools the vrms. When i have a single one running my max temp was 63 degrees C. Now that i have them on SLI the top one reaches 68 degrees average and the bottom one 63 degrees while playing Tomb Raider with everything maxed out for an hour. I have remounted the bracket several times, so i think it comes down to the shims not being very good.
> 
> Both Radiators are in the front of my H440 case. I think that part of the problem is that the heat on the front of the case doesn't go away. Still, when the case is open my temps hover around 63 degrees. This is super high compared to what other people are reporting.


I think a 1.5mm shim is the minimum thickness for having the memory plate on.


----------



## ducknukem86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I think a 1.5mm shim is the minimum thickness for having the memory plate on.


You think it's worth it unmounting everything and putting 1.5mm thick shims? it's such a PITA and waste of TIM. But people report temps around 55 degrees. When i see 68 degrees on my top card it makes me think all the work and money was not worth it. Even though it's super silent.

EDIT: Well, i give up, i tried the 1.5mm shims and there wasn't any improvement. Max temps running Tomb Raider with everything set Ultra is 65 degrees. I don´t know what else to do. I even tried it with the Radiator outside of the case to see if it was airflow the problem.







Maybe it's just Tomb Raider that has the ability to heat up the GPU, because running 10 Benchmarks of Metro Last Light the max temp is 55 degrees.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> You think it's worth it unmounting everything and putting 1.5mm thick shims? it's such a PITA and waste of TIM. But people report temps around 55 degrees. When i see 68 degrees on my top card it makes me think all the work and money was not worth it. Even though it's super silent.
> 
> EDIT: Well, i give up, i tried the 1.5mm shims and there wasn't any improvement. Max temps running Tomb Raider with everything set Ultra is 65 degrees. I don´t know what else to do. I even tried it with the Radiator outside of the case to see if it was airflow the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's just Tomb Raider that has the ability to heat up the GPU, because running 10 Benchmarks of Metro Last Light the max temp is 55 degrees.


Did you put TIM on both sides of the copper shim? It doesn't look like you did, at least in the picture it doesn't.

I use a .08mm shim on my EVGA 780 SC and never break 50C, Using Gelid Extreme TIM on both sides of the shim. Ambient Temperature is 24C. I only have one card in a full tower, Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Also, I have an X31 compared to H55. 2 Fans in push/pull @ 1500rpm. Pump is plugged into a molex for 100% speed. My card does have any additional voltage going through it, I am able to hit +100Mhz on the Core and +250Mhz on the memory on stock voltage, 1.162v. What is the stock voltage or overclocked voltage of the Classified?

I think your main problem is not having TIM on both sides of the copper shim.

Also, make sure that your fans are set to exhaust the air away from your case.


----------



## ducknukem86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Did you put TIM on both sides of the copper shim? It doesn't look like you did, at least in the picture it doesn't.
> 
> I use a .08mm shim on my EVGA 780 SC and never break 50C, Using Gelid Extreme TIM on both sides of the shim. Ambient Temperature is 24C. I only have one card in a full tower, Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Also, I have an X31 compared to H55. 2 Fans in push/pull @ 1500rpm. Pump is plugged into a molex for 100% speed. My card does have any additional voltage going through it, I am able to hit +100Mhz on the Core and +250Mhz on the memory on stock voltage, 1.162v. What is the stock voltage or overclocked voltage of the Classified?
> 
> I think your main problem is not having TIM on both sides of the copper shim.
> 
> Also, make sure that your fans are set to exhaust the air away from your case.


Yeah man, i did put TIM on both sides of the shim. Now, one of my 780 Classies with the Kraken, a 1.2 mm shim and a H55 in push config is hitting 53 degrees max while playing Tomb Raider. I don't understand what i did different.

The second 780 that i just redid is hitting 61 degrees max in Tomb Raider. So i don't know what's different apart from the fact that i did the first one yesterday. Could it be it takes some time for the TIM to cure?

I'm using Artic Silver Mx4 on both. A drop the size of a grain of rice on each side of the shim.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> Yeah man, i did put TIM on both sides of the shim. Now, one of my 780 Classies with the Kraken, a 1.2 mm shim and a H55 in push config is hitting 53 degrees max while playing Tomb Raider. I don't understand what i did different.
> 
> The second 780 that i just redid is hitting 61 degrees max in Tomb Raider. So i don't know what's different apart from the fact that i did the first one yesterday. Could it be it takes some time for the TIM to cure?
> 
> I'm using Artic Silver Mx4 on both. A drop the size of a grain of rice on each side of the shim.


GPU's need more TIM than CPUs. Also, I spread my mine out rather than rely on pressure because the pressure isn't perfect with the shim. Gelid GC Extreme TIM is about 2-3C better than MX4 on GPUs, with medium mounting pressure. I use an X31 that is 30mm thick compared to 27mm thick of the H55, an extra 10% helps there. The pump in my X31 also goes up to 4,000rpm, but I run it at 3,500rpm. Not sure on the speed of the H55. Also, I am using 2 fans in push/pull. Cooler Master Blade Master's with a very high static pressure of 3.9.

Are you running at 1440p? 1080p? Multiple monitors?

I use a 22' 1080p IPS monitor, and an old 720p 42in TV for just web browsing, Netflix, and monitoring programs. Some games cause the card to run hotter than others, I don't own Tomb Raider, so I can't comment on that game. Metro:LL is one of the games that runs hotter for me, and I max out around 48C after a long play session. Also, the DSR was just released yesterday, and I did some experimenting with that. I found that when I am running at 1440p or Ultra4k, my temperatures do increase by a few Celsius. Still never exceeding 54C.

Is your classified overclocked? If not, what is the stock voltage on the classified?

Also, you have to keep in mind that you're running two cards compared to my one. Also in an H440 that is notorious for poor airflow. I saw that you removed the side panel and have the radiator outside of the case, and that seemed to help a little. Just keep in mind that because of your case, and multiple cards so close to each other, your temperatures are going to be hotter than someone else's. When you do finally put it all back together, make sure that you are running your H55s as exhaust, even if it is blowing air out of the front. Just switch up the airflow of your case to go from intake top and rear to exhaust front.


----------



## ducknukem86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> GPU's need more TIM than CPUs. Also, I spread my mine out rather than rely on pressure because the pressure isn't perfect with the shim. Gelid GC Extreme TIM is about 2-3C better than MX4 on GPUs, with medium mounting pressure. I use an X31 that is 30mm thick compared to 27mm thick of the H55, an extra 10% helps there. The pump in my X31 also goes up to 4,000rpm, but I run it at 3,500rpm. Not sure on the speed of the H55. Also, I am using 2 fans in push/pull. Cooler Master Blade Master's with a very high static pressure of 3.9.
> 
> Are you running at 1440p? 1080p? Multiple monitors?
> 
> I use a 22' 1080p IPS monitor, and an old 720p 42in TV for just web browsing, Netflix, and monitoring programs. Some games cause the card to run hotter than others, I don't own Tomb Raider, so I can't comment on that game. Metro:LL is one of the games that runs hotter for me, and I max out around 48C after a long play session. Also, the DSR was just released yesterday, and I did some experimenting with that. I found that when I am running at 1440p or Ultra4k, my temperatures do increase by a few Celsius. Still never exceeding 54C.
> 
> Is your classified overclocked? If not, what is the stock voltage on the classified?
> 
> Also, you have to keep in mind that you're running two cards compared to my one. Also in an H440 that is notorious for poor airflow. I saw that you removed the side panel and have the radiator outside of the case, and that seemed to help a little. Just keep in mind that because of your case, and multiple cards so close to each other, your temperatures are going to be hotter than someone else's. When you do finally put it all back together, make sure that you are running your H55s as exhaust, even if it is blowing air out of the front. Just switch up the airflow of your case to go from intake top and rear to exhaust front.


I reapplied the TIM on both cards, and have both radiators set to exhaust air. The card on top reaches 51 degrees max. The second 55 degrees! None of them are overclocked. After all the trial and error i think i finally managed to get those awesome temps everyone's talking about. It's just that with the shims the performance seems to be quite unpredictable.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> I reapplied the TIM on both cards, and have both radiators set to exhaust air. The card on top reaches 51 degrees max. The second 55 degrees! None of them are overclocked. After all the trial and error i think i finally managed to get those awesome temps everyone's talking about. It's just that with the shims the performance seems to be quite unpredictable.


I was checking out Tomb Raider with 3D Vision on the Swift the other day and primary temps immediately got up to 75C and would have likely continued on to 80-85 C had I not experienced a display driver failure (Tomb Raider IS NOT stable at even 1241 core, many have to under-clock their cards to play TR) as that is what I seem to be getting with the Skyn3t vbios at 1.212v in games that induce sufficient load.

Playing AC4: Black Flag last night primary got up and hung around 85 C until I got uncomfortable enough with those temps to remove the side-panel and open the window. This is not with the G10 Kraken, I am still waiting on those brackets from amazon, these temps are with EVGA's ACX Cooler with an aggressive fan algorithm via Precision X (40% RPM at 30 C ramping up linearly to 100% at 65 C) and a case second in air-flow only to a test-bench (Air 540): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGtlksj-Fdc

Also, I am not sure about 780 Classified but 780 Ti Classified consumes 50W more than reference and even my SC ACX variant. The power-draw seems to scale exponentially with an increase in voltage. Assuming youre running a Skyn3t vbios with more than say 1.212v your card is probably pulling in 300+W, which will equate to ridiculous temps even with an AIO cooler.

For example, here is someone on the 780 Ti forum with EK water-blocks hitting 60+C at ~ 1.3V: http://www.overclock.net/t/1438886/official-nvidia-gtx-780-ti-owners-club/13840

So 60C in Tomb Raider is fully within the realm of normal for the G10/AIO cooling solution, especially considering you only have one fan and not two in push-pull.

Edit: You may want to pick up another 120mm fan, be careful you don't force the bolts into the other side of the radiator as there is a chance they aren't the same pitch as the supplied corsair ones (my Noiseblocker E-Loop B-12's aren't, I had to go out to Ace Hardware and pick up a few 6/32" bolts and matching washers, 1.25" long) To be sure, visually compare them to the Corsair bolts or initially screw them in by hand, if they don't go, they aren't the right pitch/size.

You also might stand to benefit from adding a bunch of cheap heat-sinks to the VRM area, especially considering the Classy's pull in more power. It doesn't matter if youre only seeing 55-60 C on your GPU if your VRM is approaching 100 C. High temps of either your GPU or your VRM leads to premature failure.

Here is the most comprehensive mini-guide I have come across pertaining to properly modding your GPU with a G10:

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/232654-kraken-g10-help/


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducknukem86*
> 
> I reapplied the TIM on both cards, and have both radiators set to exhaust air. The card on top reaches 51 degrees max. The second 55 degrees! None of them are overclocked. After all the trial and error i think i finally managed to get those awesome temps everyone's talking about. It's just that with the shims the performance seems to be quite unpredictable.


Glad you got it working!


----------



## Vendari

has anyone tried slapping a G10 on a Zotac GTX 970/980 AMP! Extreme?


----------



## wgizmo

You can put it on any latest card. There is no way to dont it it in. As soon you know how to fit in.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wgizmo*
> 
> You can put it on any latest card. There is no way to dont it it in. As soon you know how to fit in.


I'm not sure that is entirely true. Careful what you say with certainty. Would hate for someone to buy a card thinking it will work with the G10 only to be disappointed. Some cards have the VRMs on the opposite side of the card as the fan. Some cards are non-reference PCBs. Some cards are shorter than others, Gigabyte just released an ITX 970 that I doubt will work with a G10.

Anyone looking to buy a G10, please do your research and be thorough about it.


----------



## A30N

Just installed 2x Kraken G10's today onto my EVGA GTX 970 SC's. I had to mod the brackets to fit, because I don't have an extra slot between my two cards (they touch). I bent out the side panels to allow the hoses and cables through, and I also omitted the included fans. Instead, I added 2x 60mm red led fans to cool the vrms (located behind the SLI connectors). Max temp reached so far is 45C on full load, overclocked to 1333Mhz!







My Rig:
EVGA Supernova 750 G2 Power Supply
EVGA X97 FTW Motherboard
EVGA GTX 970 SC (x2 SLI)
Samsung 840 SSD 250GB (x2 RAID0)
Intel Core i5 4670K (overclocked to 4.20Ghz)
ADATA DDR3 1600 RAM 16GB
Corsair Spec-03 mid-tower case


----------



## curly haired boy

good lord man - it looks like the inside of a red-hot furnace!


----------



## Ultisym

Alrighty, I think I am going to step up to a pair of 970s from the 770s. My question is, do all the 970 variants have a pcb design with the vrms located in front of the GPU? and if not, which variants have the vrms to the rear of the GPU?

What research I have done seems to indicate the vrms are going to be in front of the GPU on most if not all 970s.

TIA


----------



## Vendari

Personally, I was going for the Zotac AMP! Extreme 970s but budget constraints prevent me from doing so XD ... you should check it out.
Here's the PCB layout of the 980 AMP Extreme, they're the same with 970 i assume.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A30N*
> 
> Just installed 2x Kraken G10's today onto my EVGA GTX 970 SC's. I had to mod the brackets to fit, because I don't have an extra slot between my two cards (they touch). I bent out the side panels to allow the hoses and cables through, and I also omitted the included fans. Instead, I added 2x 60mm red led fans to cool the vrms (located behind the SLI connectors). Max temp reached so far is 45C on full load, overclocked to 1333Mhz!


Beautiful job, well done!

Is having only one PCIe slot empty between the two cards enough in my particular case?

I'm thinking I may have to do the same with SLI Gigabyte 970 G1s as I only have 1 PCIe slot in between them (total of 5 slots used, 2 for each GPU and 1 empty slot in between).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Alrighty, I think I am going to step up to a pair of 970s from the 770s. My question is, do all the 970 variants have a pcb design with the vrms located in front of the GPU? and if not, which variants have the vrms to the rear of the GPU?
> 
> What research I have done seems to indicate the vrms are going to be in front of the GPU on most if not all 970s.
> 
> TIA


That's what I've been finding as well.

The VRMS are located in the front rather than rear at least for the Gigabyte G1s.

Probably will have to buy VRM heatsinks still.

Oh and guys TD has the G10 bracket in black for $9.99.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?sdtid=7291042&EdpNo=8927105

Use promo HLJ145348 at checkout.

Wondering if I should pull the trigger.


----------



## A30N

Most 970/980 cards will have the VRMs near the SLI connectors because that is the reference design. You will need heatsinks and a fan blowing on them. I do hope Kraken comes out with a bracket designed specifically for the 9xx series layout. I ran some quick VRM tests, here are the results:

No fan/no heatsink: over 80°C (I shut down the PC right then to prevent damage)

No fan + aluminum heatsinks: 80°C

60mm fan + aluminum heatsinks: 55-60°C

Temps were measured with a digital infrared thermometer, no significant difference between top card and bottom card temps.

Also, the included fan mounted in its designated area did not affect temps for the GPU, VRAM or VRMs. The G10 bracket is not designed for reference 9xx cards and additional cooling/mods are required. Both my cards came with back plates, so it was easy to use foam tape to attach 60mm fans over the VRM area.

Interesting to note that in my situation, I did not need to blow air over the VRM heatsinks directly; rather I cooled them with the fans attached to the backplate.

Please note that unmodified, the bracket and hoses installed fill up a total of 3 PCI-E slots, whereas a typical card fills up a total of 2 slots.


----------



## pdasterly

http://slickdeals.net/f/7291042-nzxt-g10-aftermarket-gpu-cooling-bracket-10-after-10-rebate-free-shipping


----------



## Sploosh

A few questions as I prepare to modify my R9 290:

Is there any difference between the stock NZXT 92 mm fan or a Noctua PWM 92 mm fan?

Will I need a special fan header or splitter to connect the 92mm PWM to the Graphics card?

I am out of exhaust space in my computer. I have a front 200mm + 140mm in intake, as well as 2x 140mm in the bottom as additional intake. I have 2x 140 in the top in exhaust with an H110 for the CPU, and a 1x 120mm in exhaust out the back for a 120mm radiator (295x2). The plan is to trifire the 290 below the 295x2 while using the G10 + Kraken 60x on the bottom intake. I know this will raise the case temp, but I don't see anything good about murdering the positive pressure that's going on.

I'm going to pick up a set of http://amzn.com/B00637X42A for the card's RAM. These are supposedly self-adhesive. Would they still need double-sided thermal tape?

Thanks for the help, folks. I hope to make this a success with your help.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sploosh*
> 
> A few questions as I prepare to modify my R9 290:
> 
> Is there any difference between the stock NZXT 92 mm fan or a Noctua PWM 92 mm fan?
> 
> Will I need a special fan header or splitter to connect the 92mm PWM to the Graphics card?
> 
> I am out of exhaust space in my computer. I have a front 200mm + 140mm in intake, as well as 2x 140mm in the bottom as additional intake. I have 2x 140 in the top in exhaust with an H110 for the CPU, and a 1x 120mm in exhaust out the back for a 120mm radiator (295x2). The plan is to trifire the 290 below the 295x2 while using the G10 + Kraken 60x on the bottom intake. I know this will raise the case temp, but I don't see anything good about murdering the positive pressure that's going on.
> 
> I'm going to pick up a set of http://amzn.com/B00637X42A for the card's RAM. These are supposedly self-adhesive. Would they still need double-sided thermal tape?
> 
> Thanks for the help, folks. I hope to make this a success with your help.


I would get rid of the bottom 140mm fans, and place the X61 there, but as EXHAUST. Also, this is the adapter that you need to connect the fan to the GPU Fan Header


----------



## riad

Here is my long overdue mod of my 2 GTX Titans, big shoutout to Pinko.







The mod took a little over 12 hours due to a few obstacles and some drilling was required but she runs great. Thank god.



Not much overclock on these, 100 GPU and 200 MEM. Stock voltage. Temps are dreamy, 27c idle and max is 51c running heaven for an hour or so. Very pleased with this because my system is extremely quiet.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> Here is my long overdue mod of my 2 GTX Titans, big shoutout to Pinko.
> 
> The mod took a little over 12 hours due to a few obstacles and some drilling was required but she runs great. Thank god.
> 
> 
> 
> Not much overclock on these, 100 GPU and 200 MEM. Stock voltage. Temps are dreamy, 27c idle and max is 51c running heaven for an hour or so. Very pleased with this because my system is extremely quiet.


Whew that looks snazzy.

Any reasoning behind why the min fps dipped so low?

I experienced something similar with my SLI 970s.


----------



## riad

At the beginning of the benchmark it started @ 9fps, i dunno why.


----------



## Vendari

Drivers aren't 100% optimized for Unigine I reckon...


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> At the beginning of the benchmark it started @ 9fps, i dunno why.


That's interesting, my dip was definitely mid-way through I think in the corridor part of the benchmark.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> Drivers aren't 100% optimized for Unigine I reckon...


You're probably right, at least I hope so.

I even had some blue artifacting on some of the Unigine textures esp. trees and grass.

All stock and not even oced yet.


----------



## Vendari

try running the benchmarks in DX9, you'll be surprised.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> http://slickdeals.net/f/7291042-nzxt-g10-aftermarket-gpu-cooling-bracket-10-after-10-rebate-free-shipping


Holy crap that is a good deal. I just ordered 2x White from Newegg (premiere) for the regular price. The white will go better with my particular build and I need these things like yesterday (primary flirting with 80C due to the sustained load induced by 3D Vision at 1440p).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGtlksj-Fdc

I also bought 3x Enzotech 8 pc. heat-sinks, I intend to put 6 on the MOFSET area and the other 6 around the VRAM area.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708009

They fit:

http://cdn.overclock.net/9/97/9704fcf1_1658401_10203096573512198_664858803_o.jpeg

I suppose not being an early adopter of new tech favors me in the sense that I can probably expect VRM temps about 20C cooler than reference with these copper heat-sinks in conjunction with the existing ACX VRM cooling mid-plate and the 92mm fan blowing directly on this area.

Hopefully Kraken releases a 9XX series iteration soon; but I am not entirely sure there is enough room on the SLI connector side of PCB for a fan, unless they make them smaller than 92mm.....

Hopefully my G10's arrive Wed or Thursday, can't wait to have piece of mind, less noise (2x ACX on full bore is ridiculously loud) and heat EXPELLED, not DUMPED INTO, my case.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sploosh*
> 
> A few questions as I prepare to modify my R9 290:
> 
> Is there any difference between the stock NZXT 92 mm fan or a Noctua PWM 92 mm fan?
> 
> Will I need a special fan header or splitter to connect the 92mm PWM to the Graphics card?
> 
> I am out of exhaust space in my computer. I have a front 200mm + 140mm in intake, as well as 2x 140mm in the bottom as additional intake. I have 2x 140 in the top in exhaust with an H110 for the CPU, and a 1x 120mm in exhaust out the back for a 120mm radiator (295x2). The plan is to trifire the 290 below the 295x2 while using the G10 + Kraken 60x on the bottom intake. I know this will raise the case temp, but I don't see anything good about murdering the positive pressure that's going on.
> 
> I'm going to pick up a set of http://amzn.com/B00637X42A for the card's RAM. These are supposedly self-adhesive. Would they still need double-sided thermal tape?
> 
> Thanks for the help, folks. I hope to make this a success with your help.


NOT a good idea. GPU's are a whole nother animal in regards to AIO cooling, we're not talking about a 100W TDP CPU here, we're talking not one, but in your case THREE 300W heat sources.

If you run that rad as intake youre going to only make things significantly worse in regards to component longevity as your card's will not be able to exchange the heat from their VRM's with the ambient air. It doesn't matter if your GPU's are registering 50-55 C load temps if your VRM's are actually running 20-30 C hotter, a too high temperature of either means rapid premature failure.

What is the big deal with positive pressure? Afraid of a little dust? Just go in there every few days with one of these and that's it!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16896367002&cm_re=data_vac-_-96-367-002-_-Product


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> Here is my long overdue mod of my 2 GTX Titans, big shoutout to Pinko.
> 
> 
> 
> The mod took a little over 12 hours due to a few obstacles and some drilling was required but she runs great. Thank god.
> 
> Not much overclock on these, 100 GPU and 200 MEM. Stock voltage. Temps are dreamy, 27c idle and max is 51c running heaven for an hour or so. Very pleased with this because my system is extremely quiet.


You should look into cooling your VRM areas, maybe you can find a used VRM cooling mid-plate or apply heat-sinks directly to your MOFSET's. I wouldn't run the G10 on GK110 without a VRM cooling mid-plate, all of the reviews show GK110 to exhibit higher VRM temperatures without one unlike the AMD cards for some reason.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Wow Riad, that looks awesome! Very happy that you got it all sorted out and finished. Looks incredible and performs incredible!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A30N*
> 
> Most 970/980 cards will have the VRMs near the SLI connectors because that is the reference design. You will need heatsinks and a fan blowing on them. I do hope Kraken comes out with a bracket designed specifically for the 9xx series layout. I ran some quick VRM tests, here are the results:
> 
> No fan/no heatsink: over 80°C (I shut down the PC right then to prevent damage)
> 
> No fan + aluminum heatsinks: 80°C
> 
> 60mm fan + aluminum heatsinks: 55-60°C
> 
> Temps were measured with a digital infrared thermometer, no significant difference between top card and bottom card temps.
> 
> Also, the included fan mounted in its designated area did not affect temps for the GPU, VRAM or VRMs. The G10 bracket is not designed for reference 9xx cards and additional cooling/mods are required. Both my cards came with back plates, so it was easy to use foam tape to attach 60mm fans over the VRM area.
> 
> Interesting to note that in my situation, I did not need to blow air over the VRM heatsinks directly; rather I cooled them with the fans attached to the backplate.
> 
> Please note that unmodified, the bracket and hoses installed fill up a total of 3 PCI-E slots, whereas a typical card fills up a total of 2 slots.


I think this might be what youre looking for!

http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=987&subid=1043#showtab

I discovered this here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1445970/legitreviews-nzxt-announces-kraken-g10-liquid-cooled-gpu-mounting-kit/1320


----------



## riad

im using these on my vrms, you might not notice them but trust me, they're there.

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414489109&sr=8-3&keywords=cosmos+aluminium


----------



## A30N

I have those too, but I had trouble getting them to stick without falling off at first. I applied pressure after the VRMs heated up, and so far they haven't fallen off again.


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> At the beginning of the benchmark it started @ 9fps, i dunno why.


I get the same if you wait a few seconds before hitting f9 to bench it wont drop so low.


----------



## Sploosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I would get rid of the bottom 140mm fans, and place the X61 there, but as EXHAUST. Also, this is the adapter that you need to connect the fan to the GPU Fan Header


Well noted. I guess I can always flip the 140mm fans over to exhaust and put the 60x in a pull exhaust.

Pulled the trigger on the heatsinks and the connector. Any advice for mounting everything? I have an older tube of Arctic Silver 5 that should be fine for this application.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sploosh*
> 
> Well noted. I guess I can always flip the 140mm fans over to exhaust and put the 60x in a pull exhaust.
> 
> Pulled the trigger on the heatsinks and the connector. Any advice for mounting everything? I have an older tube of Arctic Silver 5 that should be fine for this application.


just be careful not to use too much with the artic silver as it is capacitive.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A30N*
> 
> Most 970/980 cards will have the VRMs near the SLI connectors because that is the reference design. You will need heatsinks and a fan blowing on them. I do hope Kraken comes out with a bracket designed specifically for the 9xx series layout. I ran some quick VRM tests, here are the results:
> 
> No fan/no heatsink: over 80°C (I shut down the PC right then to prevent damage)
> 
> No fan + aluminum heatsinks: 80°C
> 
> 60mm fan + aluminum heatsinks: 55-60°C
> 
> Temps were measured with a digital infrared thermometer, no significant difference between top card and bottom card temps.
> 
> Also, the included fan mounted in its designated area did not affect temps for the GPU, VRAM or VRMs. The G10 bracket is not designed for reference 9xx cards and additional cooling/mods are required. Both my cards came with back plates, so it was easy to use foam tape to attach 60mm fans over the VRM area.
> 
> Interesting to note that in my situation, I did not need to blow air over the VRM heatsinks directly; rather I cooled them with the fans attached to the backplate.
> 
> Please note that unmodified, the bracket and hoses installed fill up a total of 3 PCI-E slots, whereas a typical card fills up a total of 2 slots.


It appears I will be doing an overhaul of the g-10 brackets to work on the 970s.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sploosh*
> 
> Well noted. I guess I can always flip the 140mm fans over to exhaust and put the 60x in a pull exhaust.
> 
> Pulled the trigger on the heatsinks and the connector. Any advice for mounting everything? I have an older tube of Arctic Silver 5 that should be fine for this application.


I would not use AS5. It isn't very good, and it is conductive. Get some new thermal paste. I use Gelid GC Extreme, which I love. But there are other very good brands around.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Just bought a H75 and a G10 for my 290x, mainly so it takes up a little less room as the TriX cooler is HUGE, but also hoping its more aesthetically pleasing and better temps, cant wait till it arrives!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riad*
> 
> im using these on my vrms, you might not notice them but trust me, they're there.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414489109&sr=8-3&keywords=cosmos+aluminium


I would invest in copper, twice the weight and density. You really only want to run aluminum if there is no airflow as they don't heat-soak as bad as copper. But if you have adequate airflow, which the VRM's do as they sit right under the 92mm fan, copper is twice as effective.


----------



## Sploosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> just be careful not to use too much with the artic silver as it is capacitive.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I would not use AS5. It isn't very good, and it is conductive. Get some new thermal paste. I use Gelid GC Extreme, which I love. But there are other very good brands around.


Also good to know, thanks. Do you think lack of double-sided thermal tape is going to be an issue for the heatsinks?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sploosh*
> 
> Also good to know, thanks. Do you think lack of double-sided thermal tape is going to be an issue for the heatsinks?


On the heavy copper heatsinks. Yes. On the tiny aluminum ones not so much.

I personally used some Sekisui Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape, and haven't had a problem with any of them falling off. Others have said they have encountered problems with them falling off.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I would not use AS5. It isn't very good, and it is conductive. Get some new thermal paste. I use Gelid GC
> Extreme, which I love. But there are other very good brands around.


AS5 is capacitive not conductive. That being said GA Extreme is a great thermal paste and would also recommend it.


----------



## vulcan78

+1 Gelid Extreme. This is what I will be using with the G10's.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> AS5 is capacitive not conductive. That being said GA Extreme is a great thermal paste and would also recommend it.


Still not a desired trait in your TIM.

Gelid GC Extreme is not capacitive or conductive. Buy with confidence!


----------



## PCGameFan

I'm been quite pleased with my MX-4. The only thing I would consider over it would be the GC Extreme.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> I'm been quite pleased with my MX-4. The only thing I would consider over it would be the GC Extreme.


MX-4 is fine. Heck, I still have MX-2 around that I use sometimes. Ive seen all the various tests but never been able to see any significant drop in temp in practical use compared to another quality TIM. Non capacitive and non conductive are the most important aspects IMO.

OK: as for my 970 and G-10 situation, I have two Strix 970s on the way. I plan to simply attach a fan over the vrm heatsink. I will probably do this by drilling a hole in the top-forward corner of the g-10 face and extending a bracket from the g-10 to hold a small fan with probably two holes. Kind of ghetto, but not thinking I need much airflow here. Completely open to suggestions should anyone have one.


----------



## PCGameFan

I just did this mod on a 780 Ti to keep my heatspreaders on. Works awesome!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Right now if the perfect time for someone to do this mod, never before has it been this cheap.

G10 Bracket for $10 from Tigerdirect.com

H55 from NCIXUS.com for $46


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Right now if the perfect time for someone to do this mod, never before has it been this cheap.
> 
> G10 Bracket for $10 from Tigerdirect.com
> 
> H55 from NCIXUS.com for $46


wow, I wish i wouldve waited


----------



## vulcan78

That's a great deal! But I wanted white.....

Hey guys is anyone else experiencing a good bit of heat-soak and general heat distributed about their cards, especially their back-plates?

I got the G10's in and initial testing has proved phenomenal, but the system is demonstrating heat-soak and sub-par temperatures during extended play-periods:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1438886/official-nvidia-gtx-780-ti-owners-club/13950#post_23077025

Is it a radiator surface area issue? (H55's, single fan in pull).

I think its an airflow issue which I'm going to attempt to remedy with a house fan in front of the side of the case. Or does anyone make an external 200mm fan to be positioned on the floor?

Thanks in advance. So far loving the G10's, especially how quiet they are in relation to the ACX coolers!


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> That's a great deal! But I wanted white.....
> 
> Hey guys is anyone else experiencing a good bit of heat-soak and general heat distributed about their cards, especially their back-plates?
> 
> I got the G10's in and initial testing has proved phenomenal, but the system is demonstrating heat-soak and sub-par temperatures during extended play-periods:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1438886/official-nvidia-gtx-780-ti-owners-club/13950#post_23077025
> 
> Is it a radiator surface area issue? (H55's, single fan in pull).
> 
> I think its an airflow issue which I'm going to attempt to remedy with a house fan in front of the side of the case. Or does anyone make an external 200mm fan to be positioned on the floor?
> 
> Thanks in advance. So far loving the G10's, especially how quiet they are in relation to the ACX coolers!


Do you have the pump running at full RPM? I know my pump was running at 50% until I changed that in bios.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkReign32*
> 
> Do you have the pump running at full RPM? I know my pump was running at 50% until I changed that in bios.


Oh really? GOOD INFO, thank-you and no the pumps aren't running at full speed. I don't know if the issue is the radiators inability to get the heat out of the case, the cards themselves are getting very hot, not necessarily the GPU's.


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Oh really? GOOD INFO, thank-you and no the pumps aren't running at full speed. I don't know if the issue is the radiators inability to get the heat out of the case, the cards themselves are getting very hot, not necessarily the GPU's.


no problem. Is the radiator in the rear of the case with the fan exhausting the air? I originally had mine in the front and noticed a massive improvement. I was being lazy so I threw it in the front. I also added a second fan for push/pull and made sure the fan header the pump is connected to is at 100% (full power draw). In comparison to the previous set up, I'm idling at ~25C and peaking at 37-42C depending on usage and the game itself. Now this is with the use of a H75 rather than the H55.


----------



## VSG

Hey guys, thanks for this great thread- got a lot of info from it. I am expecting a G10 w/Kraken x41 to test out head to head against other AMD 290 cooling options. Is there any go-to heatsink kit that I can get but not have to permanently install? The card has a long line of chips to the right of the core and also 3 smaller ones to the left, just in case. Thanks again


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkReign32*
> 
> no problem. Is the radiator in the rear of the case with the fan exhausting the air? I originally had mine in the front and noticed a massive improvement. I was being lazy so I threw it in the front. I also added a second fan for push/pull and made sure the fan header the pump is connected to is at 100% (full power draw). In comparison to the previous set up, I'm idling at ~25C and peaking at 37-42C depending on usage and the game itself. Now this is with the use of a H75 rather than the H55.


Both the rads are situation in the front of my Air 540 exhausting out. Initially I did have it set up for push-pull but things were VERY cramped, with like a quarter of an inch between the radiator assemblies and the GPU's and testing only showed a 1 C difference under load in Valley. I have the fans at 50%, so far testing with them at 75% doesn't show much of an improvement but that was only during relatively brief benchmarks such as Valley. I will try the fans at 75% tonight when I expect to sit down for an extended play-period but the noise at 75% is a bit annoying. I'm also worried about prematurely wearing out the pumps setting them to 100% in the BIOS. The lines and the radiators are all hot so I am assuming the pump is conveying the heat to the radiators sufficiently, the back-up and hence build up of heat is probably because I've not two fans in push-pull at 75% RPM. There is a compromise to be made between acoustics and performance with this system to be sure and I suppose I have really really taken a liking to the acoustic advantages of this system with the fans at 50% RPM, temperatures during extended play-periods be damned. The general heat born about the back-plates and PCB's themselves are not related to the GPU core temps, as those are usually at most 60-65 C, they are the consequence of the ambient heat generated by the H55's hoses with both the primary and secondary GPU next to each other and inadequate air-flow. As I said earlier, I intend to solve this with an external fan positioned right there, preferably an external 200mm fan although it appears that no-one makes an external 200mm fan. Unfortunately the Air 540 doesn't have an optional side-panel that can accommodate a 200mm fan, nor does anyone make an aftermaket one.

Any ideas as to an ideal, quiet fan for this task?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey guys, thanks for this great thread- got a lot of info from it. I am expecting a G10 w/Kraken x41 to test out head to head against other AMD 290 cooling options. Is there any go-to heatsink kit that I can get but not have to permanently install? The card has a long line of chips to the right of the core and also 3 smaller ones to the left, just in case. Thanks again


I believe MSI makes some sort of VRM cooling mid-plate, I remember seeing it recently on the web but can't seem to find where.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I believe MSI makes some sort of VRM cooling mid-plate, I remember seeing it recently on the web but can't seem to find where.


I should have mentioned it would be a reference R9-290 being tested on. The aftermarket VRM mid-plates typically aren't available for sale separately or don't fit the reference cards, if not both. If I am wrong, please do correct me since that would be a great solution.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I should have mentioned it would be a reference R9-290 being tested on. The aftermarket VRM mid-plates typically aren't available for sale separately or don't fit the reference cards, if not both. If I am wrong, please do correct me since that would be a great solution.


You can utilize the factory baseplate


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> You can utilize the factory baseplate


I really should be more specific in my posts here! Sorry again, but by a reference 290 I meant it has a reference blower cooler also (to test the HG10 with). I shouldn't have assumed that would have been a definite conclusion from the previous post.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Vulcan, you have to have the pumps at or near 100%, otherwise the water wont flow fast enough, and the heat wont get dissipated. This is likely your problem. Push the pump speed to 90-100%. You can leave the fans at 50% if you like, but the pump needs to be ramped up to at least 90%.

I also worry at burning the pump out, which really is an unfounded concern. That is why I leave it at 90% and not 100%. Set the pump to 90-100% and it should improve. What leads me to believe that it is the pump speed is because you say temperatures are good at first, but during extended play periods, that is when it heats up. The longer you play, the hotter the liquid gets, that a given. If it is not being rotated through the heat dissapation(radiator) it is going to increase in temperature.

I wouldn't worry too much about the cards being hot. Even my card is warm to the touch when I put my finger on the backplate. Hopefully increasing the pump speed will help this. You do have to keep in mind that running 2 cards right next to each other is going to cause higher temps than someone with one card, but overall, your temps should be lower than what you're reporting. Try increasing the pump speed first. Also, once the pump speed is increased, you should notice that when you increase the fan speed(if you choose to), you will see a more linear improvement in temperatures.

Could you post some pictures of different angles with arrows indicating air flow direction please?


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Vulcan, you have to have the pumps at or near 100%, otherwise the water wont flow fast enough, and the heat wont get dissipated. This is likely your problem. Push the pump speed to 90-100%. You can leave the fans at 50% if you like, but the pump needs to be ramped up to at least 90%.
> 
> I also worry at burning the pump out, which really is an unfounded concern. That is why I leave it at 90% and not 100%. Set the pump to 90-100% and it should improve. What leads me to believe that it is the pump speed is because you say temperatures are good at first, but during extended play periods, that is when it heats up. The longer you play, the hotter the liquid gets, that a given. If it is not being rotated through the heat dissapation(radiator) it is going to increase in temperature.
> 
> I wouldn't worry too much about the cards being hot. Even my card is warm to the touch when I put my finger on the backplate. Hopefully increasing the pump speed will help this. You do have to keep in mind that running 2 cards right next to each other is going to cause higher temps than someone with one card, but overall, your temps should be lower than what you're reporting. Try increasing the pump speed first. Also, once the pump speed is increased, you should notice that when you increase the fan speed(if you choose to), you will see a more linear improvement in temperatures.
> 
> Could you post some pictures of different angles with arrows indicating air flow direction please?


+1

I had the very same issue. I noticed some serious overheating, getting up to 65C, whereas I used to max at 49-51C. I had forgotten that cleared CMOS and upon inspection noticed that the fan header the pump is plugged into was only running at 50%. I set it at 100% (I don't care about the pump lol) and my temps were back to normal. I did also throw the rad on the rear and noticed the temp drop another 3 degrees.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Vulcan, you have to have the pumps at or near 100%, otherwise the water wont flow fast enough, and the heat wont get dissipated. This is likely your problem. Push the pump speed to 90-100%. You can leave the fans at 50% if you like, but the pump needs to be ramped up to at least 90%.
> 
> I also worry at burning the pump out, which really is an unfounded concern. That is why I leave it at 90% and not 100%. Set the pump to 90-100% and it should improve. What leads me to believe that it is the pump speed is because you say temperatures are good at first, but during extended play periods, that is when it heats up. The longer you play, the hotter the liquid gets, that a given. If it is not being rotated through the heat dissapation(radiator) it is going to increase in temperature.
> 
> I wouldn't worry too much about the cards being hot. Even my card is warm to the touch when I put my finger on the backplate. Hopefully increasing the pump speed will help this. You do have to keep in mind that running 2 cards right next to each other is going to cause higher temps than someone with one card, but overall, your temps should be lower than what you're reporting. Try increasing the pump speed first. Also, once the pump speed is increased, you should notice that when you increase the fan speed(if you choose to), you will see a more linear improvement in temperatures.
> 
> Could you post some pictures of different angles with arrows indicating air flow direction please?


I will post some pics and a video tomorrow. I checked in BIOS and the fan headers the pumps are connected to are set to 90% duty cycle and are reporting ~1400 RPM. I looked up H55's max pump RPM but found conflicting data (1700 RPM, 2200 RPM). ~1400 RPM is 90% of 1700 RPM +/- 10%.


----------



## bernieyee

Anyone have photos of the G10 mounted on a XFX R9 280X? Curious how it looks like due to the card's design.


----------



## vulcan78

Wow guys, it took me a few hours of work as my case is pretty cramped (Air 540) but I squeezed the other 120mm fans onto the radiators for push-pull and feeling dangerous I wired all of the fans to 3-to-1 fan splitters to the VGA adapters, made a few tweaks to the fan curve via Precision X (30% RPM at 30C increasing linearly to 100% RPM at 65C) and WOW, temps dropped from 64 and 61C to 52 and 51C by the end of Unigine Valley, same results for Heaven and playing Crysis 3 for about an hour in 3D Vision at 2560x1440 temps didn't exceed 52C primary and secondary whereas before they were 63 and 59C and still slowly climbing. Now they hit 50C and that's it, they don't stray more than a degree or two from there as there is no longer the issue of heat-soak in AIO's. Sadly the fans at 70% RPM are definitely more noticeable, but not as bad as the ACX coolers this system has replaced. To get an idea of the total improvement in temps, previously by the end of Valley with the clocks at 1241MHz they were 87 and 79C with the ACX coolers, an aggressive fan algorithm and the side-panel removed (I am running modified Skyn3t vbios' that bump the voltage to 1.212V). So that's a 35C reduction on the primary GPU AND that heat is being expelled from the case unlike before AND its quieter. I am also willing to bet that my VRM' are cooler as well considering the design is very similar to the Asus DCU2, a card that does report VRM temps and which sees a reduction from 100 to 86C on the VRM switching to the G10. I've also added about 6 Enzotech BCC9 copper heat-sinks directly onto the VRM area of the ACX mid-plates, so I guestimate that my VRM are at least 20C cooler but wont know for sure without an IR thermometer.

I love controlling all of the fans off of the VGA fan-header as I don't need to go into AI Suite 3 and constantly switch from a quiet profile to a more aggressive profile if I wish to game, Precision X does all of that just as it used to with the ACX coolers. At idle the system is inaudible, under load the fans are noticeable but not nearly as much as the ACX coolers and they can't actually be heard over the Astro A50's whereas before you could still hear the ACX fans under full song.

I am extremely pleased with the G10's, my only concern now is the longevity of the AIO units themselves, I imagine if/when I experience pump failure it will entail catastrophic consequences for one of my GPU's, unless I keep a watchful eye of my temps.

Which leads me to a question, are the H55 pumps PWM? If so, I might swap them with the 92mm fan's on the 3-1 adapters, that way if RPM is a factor of lifespan (I'm pretty sure it is) they can relax when there is no real work to be done and the 92mm fans can go at 90% RPM as the VRM' could use a continual flow of cool air and if those fail it won't be nearly as catastrophic (at least not as fast.....I think).

I will probably get around to taking some pictures and posting a video to Youtube when I get up. I've been up up all night tinkering with this project, having accomplished what I set out to do I feel I can finally rest.

G10's FTW!

P.S. Idle temps are currently 25 and 26C whereas previously they were 32 and 30C.









*Update:*

Trying to find the source of some faint fan buzzing I disconnected the 120mm fan that came with the H55 attached to the primary GPU while running Valley (to get the fans going) as all of the rest of the 120mm fans on both radiators are Noiseblocker Bionic E-Loop B12 P's. I decided to leave it disconnected as I was curious to see what kind of difference adding the fans made, if the improvement was solely switching all of the fans to PWM and hence greater RPM under load (70% vs 50%) and WOW, the primary quickly established a 5C lead on the secondary and by the end of Valley was 7C warmer, 61 vs 54C.

So yes, if your running an H55 or any other smaller radiator with your G10 adding a second fan makes a huge difference.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Vulcan, I think you are playing with fire having all of those fans attached to your GPU's VGA adapter. Your card is already voided its warranty because of the Skyn3t BIOS, unless if you know of a way to restore it back to factory settings before a potential RMA, not saying this will happen, just something to consider. It isn't worth risking frying the fan header just because you don't want to go into Fan Xpert and change the settings manually.

Also, I think it is a good idea to have your 92mm fans at a constant 70-100%. They aren't loud even at full load. When you run them off of Precision X or MSI Afterburner, the temperature being measure is from the core, not the VRMs. It is a good idea to protect the VRMs at all times by having that fan running at near full speed.

My recommendation is to connect the 2 92mm Fans to one GPU through the adapter(even that is rich for my blood) have those set to a constant 75-100%. Then control all of the radiator fans off of a motherboard fan header, and set it to a constant RPM/DC Voltage. Having it at 50-75% at all times will keep the temperatures down because the fans are already spinning fast, so when it gets hot, they don't need to catch up. This will also keep the temperatures down longer.

I just don't want to see anything wrong happen with your new setup. Can't wait for pictures and a video!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Vulcan, I think you are playing with fire having all of those fans attached to your GPU's VGA adapter. Your card is already voided its warranty because of the Skyn3t BIOS, unless if you know of a way to restore it back to factory settings before a potential RMA, not saying this will happen, just something to consider. It isn't worth risking frying the fan header just because you don't want to go into Fan Xpert and change the settings manually.
> 
> Also, I think it is a good idea to have your 92mm fans at a constant 70-100%. They aren't loud even at full load. When you run them off of Precision X or MSI Afterburner, the temperature being measure is from the core, not the VRMs. It is a good idea to protect the VRMs at all times by having that fan running at near full speed.
> 
> My recommendation is to connect the 2 92mm Fans to one GPU through the adapter(even that is rich for my blood) have those set to a constant 75-100%. Then control all of the radiator fans off of a motherboard fan header, and set it to a constant RPM/DC Voltage. Having it at 50-75% at all times will keep the temperatures down because the fans are already spinning fast, so when it gets hot, they don't need to catch up. This will also keep the temperatures down longer.
> 
> I just don't want to see anything wrong happen with your new setup. Can't wait for pictures and a video!


Pinko, thank-you for the concern friend, this is a chance I'm willing to take, the PWM fan control is too much of a reward. If the VGA fan headers fail, I intend to slap the ACX coolers back on there and off they go back to EVGA, and if luck favors me they will be all out of 780 Ti's and send my 980 SC ACX's in exchange (I believe the 780 Ti's have been removed from the Step-Up program and Nvidia is not making them anymore).I have 2.5 years remaining on the warranty. That fan header was pushing those ACX fans which are much more robust than the reference fans but admittedly not the same load as two 120mm and one 92mm fan combined.

Fingers crossed.

Oh and here's a new Firestrike run at 1254 Core / 1900 memory:

24,126 GPU, 19,300 overall: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/3118847

Temps lol!

FirestrikeG10sDay2Skynetvbios1254core-1900memo.jpg 75k .jpg file


----------



## vulcan78

Does anyone know if the H55's pump is PWM?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H55's pump is PWM?


The pump will be a 3 pin and will simply plug into the mainboard fan header. Even though the the board header is 4 pin, there will be a key on the header that fits the 3 pin plug of the pump. It will not function as a PWM nor should it. It will run at its designed speed which is what you need to let it do to properly cool your gpu. The fans on the radiator may or may not be 4 pin and can be run PWM (if 4 pin) and silenced via the bios hardware, speedfan or a fan controller to balance noise and performance to your preference.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The pump will be a 3 pin and will simply plug into the mainboard fan header. Even though the the board header is 4 pin, there will be a key on the header that fits the 3 pin plug of the pump. It will not function as a PWM nor should it. It will run at its designed speed which is what you need to let it do to properly cool your gpu. The fans on the radiator may or may not be 4 pin and can be run PWM (if 4 pin) and silenced via the bios hardware, speedfan or a fan controller to balance noise and performance to your preference.


Yeah this is where the confusion begins, both the 92mm and included 120mm H55 fan are 3 pin but are PWM, that's why I am trying to ascertain whether or not the pump is PWM as it seems PWM is possible with 3 pin connectors.

Actually, on second thought, the 92mm fan and the included 120mm fans may not actually be PWM. The 92mm fan is too quiet to gauge its speed and I've only seen one of the pumps reporting a different speed (900 vs ~1400 RPM) at one point in time for some unknown reason.

I could have sworn hearing the H55's 120mm fan operate at different speeds though but I could be mistaken.


----------



## DiceAir

I have 2x vlub3d r9 280x royalkings. I want to know how the h55 will be. I have 4x cougar vortex pwm fans that I can use. Do you guys think that it should do a good job at cooling them down. My VRM already have a heatsink on it so no issue there. I'm thinking to get one of the following.

H55, H75. Any other cooler you guys can suggest?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I have 2x vlub3d r9 280x royalkings. I want to know how the h55 will be. I have 4x cougar vortex pwm fans that I can use. Do you guys think that it should do a good job at cooling them down. My VRM already have a heatsink on it so no issue there. I'm thinking to get one of the following.
> 
> H55, H75. Any other cooler you guys can suggest?


I have not installed one on a 280 yet but there should be no problems. Several here have. As for which cooler to go with, you can run whichever you wish as long as its asetek of course. Coolers larger than the H-55 may cool an additional 1 or 2 deg C better than the H-55. I run a pair of H-90s. But when temps are already well under 60C under load, it doesnt make any significant difference and the price of the H-55 is excellent right now.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I have not installed one on a 280 yet but there should be no problems. Several here have. As for which cooler to go with, you can run whichever you wish as long as its asetek of course. Coolers larger than the H-55 may cool an additional 1 or 2 deg C better than the H-55. I run a pair of H-90s. But when temps are already well under 60C under load, it doesnt make any significant difference and the price of the H-55 is excellent right now.


ok cool. Can anyone else tell me the temps using h55 on r9 280x


----------



## falcon26

With my 780 Ti and the G10 while gaming I have yet to see temps above 54. Most of the time its around 45-48


----------



## Someone09

It´s funny, I followed the G10 basically since the beginning but have yet to get one.
Anyway, until 2 days ago I was just assuming the G10 fills 2 slots but I realized it´s more of a 2.5 slots cooler.

I have a Z87 Sabertooth, 2 780 Tis and one Soundblaster Z set up like this:


I know the top card wouldn´t be a problem. The bottom one however could be a too tight fit.
Does anyone have a similar setup and confirm that it does/n´t fit?


----------



## NIK1

Does anyone know if the NZXT Kraken G10 Liquid Cooled GPU Mounting Kit will work on a Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7970.Plus,if the G10 will not work is there any other kind that will.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Does anyone know if the NZXT Kraken G10 Liquid Cooled GPU Mounting Kit will work on a Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7970.Plus,if the G10 will not work is there any other kind that will.


It should work fine but may need a copper shim. Maybe a 7970 user with the kraken will help out?


----------



## NIK1

I found the copper shim you talked about at frozen cpu site.Also what should I get for a water cooler,a 120 mm or a 140mm.Is there any watercoolers that work better for cooling a ati video card.I heard somewhere that a small 120 mm cheapie will cool just as good as a more expensive140mm since its the video card's gpu thats being cooled compared to a cpu.Is that true.Any suggestions greatly appreciated.


----------



## NIK1

I am going to order the NZXT Kraken G10 kit and wonder is the fan that comes with the kit good,or is there something better I can change it to.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> It´s funny, I followed the G10 basically since the beginning but have yet to get one.
> 
> Anyway, until 2 days ago I was just assuming the G10 fills 2 slots but I realized it´s more of a 2.5 slots cooler.
> 
> I have a Z87 Sabertooth, 2 780 Tis and one Soundblaster Z set up like this:
> 
> 
> I know the top card wouldn´t be a problem. The bottom one however could be a too tight fit.
> Does anyone have a similar setup and confirm that it does/n´t fit?


You have plenty of room there assuming youre not using the 3rd PCI-E slot.

Edit: I just re-read your post and the part about you using a sound-card in the 3rd slot. What you could do, is pick up an external USB sound-card, thereby freeing up that slot. I have heard many complaints about PCI-E sound-cards exhibiting "noise" with the ideal set-up actually a USB external like the one I have:

Creative X-FI

This one has Dolby Digital Live, which you'll need if youre running a quality set of head-phones like the Astro A40's / A50's.

It's another $64 for the sound-card, not a whole lot more if you can swing it, and the AIO route will be opened for you.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102035&cm_re=creative_x-fi-_-29-102-035-_-Product

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I am going to order the NZXT Kraken G10 kit and wonder is the fan that comes with the kit good,or is there something better I can change it to.


See my post at the bottom of this page for a wealth of information comparing the various Corsair AIO's. Youre going to benefit greatly from picking up another 120mm fan to use in push-pull with either an H55 or H60. You'll see a big difference in performance, of about 10C cooler temps:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1438886/official-nvidia-gtx-780-ti-owners-club/13990


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> You have plenty of room there assuming youre not using the 3rd PCI-E slot.
> 
> Edit: I just re-read your post and the part about you using a sound-card in the 3rd slot. What you could do, is pick up an external USB sound-card, thereby freeing up that slot. I have heard many complaints about PCI-E sound-cards exhibiting "noise" with the ideal set-up actually a USB external like the one I have:


Thanks for the answer.

I could move the soundcard to the top slot. But I´d have to remove the assistant fan and the Sabertooth has had some issues when the top slot is occupied and two GPUs are installed. I think they resolved this issue with a BIOS update.
But the last time I tried it, it gave me lots of trouble.

I asked because the SBZ isn´t a full length card and the G10 gets a bit thicker with length. So, I thought it might possible fit.
I even thought I had seen pictures in this thread with similar setup in which it did fit. But I just can´t seem to find it.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Thanks for the answer.
> 
> I could move the soundcard to the top slot. But I´d have to remove the assistant fan and the Sabertooth has had some issues when the top slot is occupied and two GPUs are installed. I think they resolved this issue with a BIOS update.
> But the last time I tried it, it gave me lots of trouble.
> 
> I asked because the SBZ isn´t a full length card and the G10 gets a bit thicker with length. So, I thought it might possible fit.
> I even thought I had seen pictures in this thread with similar setup in which it did fit. But I just can´t seem to find it.


I ran into the exact same thing on my Z77 Sabertooth and SBZ card. I ended up just removing the small assistant fan there. I saw no difference in cooling the chipsets. I cant see where the card would of fit in another pcie slot though with the 770s I had in SLI with the G-10s. Maybe I am just having trouble envisioning it. I had zero trouble with the SLI setup with the top slot occupied though, what was supposed to be happening?


----------



## Someone09

Well, nothing.









No, but seriously. There was some trouble that the top slot wouldn´t work when the first and second PCI slots are occupied.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Well, nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, but seriously. There was some trouble that the top slot wouldn´t work when the first and second PCI slots are occupied.


I have a mATX board and want to eventually crossfire so Im in the same situation, I have a G10 and I think the only reason it wouldnt fit is the fan. I reckon if you got a slim fan for the one near the soundcard it might fit? Anyone back this up/ disprove it?


----------



## Someone09

I used these pictures to get an idea of the dimension and specifically the width of the bracket:
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/nzxt_kraken_g10_gpu_heatsink_review/4

As I said I don´t own the G10 (yet) but to me it looks like it´s the bracket itself that makes the thing so wide, not just the fan.
My idea is/was that I could put my soundcard below and that it might fit in before the bracket makes this curve in wideness.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> I used these pictures to get an idea of the dimension and specifically the width of the bracket:
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/nzxt_kraken_g10_gpu_heatsink_review/4
> 
> As I said I don´t own the G10 (yet) but to me it looks like it´s the bracket itself that makes the thing so wide, not just the fan.
> My idea is/was that I could put my soundcard below and that it might fit in before the bracket makes this curve in wideness.


Yeah the fan mounts inside the g-10 so the frame of the G-10 is the outer edge. I remember thinking no way the soundcard would go there. But I never tried it.

Im not sure, but IIRC, placing anything in the pcie slots below the pcie 16 slots would screw with the speed (ie the second pcie 16 slot would not run at the 8x) when running dual GPUs. At last on the Z77. I do not remember specifics though.


----------



## 031Dutch

hi there g10 owners around the world

i post a few month`s ago for an idea on the asus gtx 780 with g10
and a corsair h90

there are little bit change`s
i now own 2 asus gtx 780`s

i found out that the nzxt x40 has a tube length off 400 mm so it must reach the front off the corsair 750d case?
and the x40 use about 7,5 watt power?



this is my new idea then
@ the moment i use an ax760i.
but upgrading soon to the ax860i

so i think i have power enough for the whole system
corsair has also the hg10 but
if i look between the reference card and non reference card
there is big diffrence between the card`s and it focus more on the reference then others.

what do you find off the photo off the 750D?


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> hi there g10 owners around the world
> 
> i post a few month`s ago for an idea on the asus gtx 780 with g10
> and a corsair h90
> 
> there are little bit change`s
> i now own 2 asus gtx 780`s
> 
> i found out that the nzxt x40 has a tube length off 400 mm so it must reach the front off the corsair 750d case?
> and the x40 use about 7,5 watt power?
> 
> 
> 
> this is my new idea then
> @ the moment i use an ax760i.
> but upgrading soon to the ax860i
> 
> so i think i have power enough for the whole system
> corsair has also the hg10 but
> if i look between the reference card and non reference card
> there is big diffrence between the card`s and it focus more on the reference then others.
> 
> what do you find off the photo off the 750D?


switch the rads to the bottom and set them to exhaust.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> hi there g10 owners around the world
> 
> i post a few month`s ago for an idea on the asus gtx 780 with g10
> and a corsair h90
> 
> there are little bit change`s
> i now own 2 asus gtx 780`s
> 
> i found out that the nzxt x40 has a tube length off 400 mm so it must reach the front off the corsair 750d case?
> and the x40 use about 7,5 watt power?
> 
> 
> 
> this is my new idea then
> @ the moment i use an ax760i.
> but upgrading soon to the ax860i
> 
> so i think i have power enough for the whole system
> corsair has also the hg10 but
> if i look between the reference card and non reference card
> there is big diffrence between the card`s and it focus more on the reference then others.
> 
> what do you find off the photo off the 750D?


Switch the rads in the front of the case to exhaust and reverse the lonely rear exhaust fan to intake (to feed the rad in the ceiling and working in conjunction with the intake fans in the floor to pressurize the case with the bottom fans providing ample airflow to the front rads.)

You DO NOT want the front rads left as intake. Evacuating the heat from the GPU's themselves via an AIO only to dump it right back onto the entire VGA assembly and heating up the VRM' to insane levels is a zero sum game as both GPU and VRM temps in excess of 85C lead to rapid premature deterioration and failure.

I am essentially configuring the fans in my Air 540 as I recommend here, with all three 120mm AIO's positioned in the front of the case as exhaust and the rear fan reversed as intake. I will post a video tomorrow.

As far as your PSU is concerned, you might actually be ok with 760W, depending on the age of said PSU (factor in ~1-5% loss in efficiency per year, depending on usage and quality, gold rated typically less loss in efficiency) your CPU TDP and whether or not your GPU's are OC'ed.

For example, I'm running a 4930 OC'ed to the hilt (4.6GHz at 1.4V, TDP of 175W) and 780 Ti SLI also OC'ed to the 1.212V hilt (1254 core, estimated TDP of ~325-350W) and I am actually not having any issues with my 850W PSU, although it is only 6 months old, is Gold Rated, and there aren't a whole lot of instances where all three components are drawing peak TDP, unless the combined test at the end of Firestrike is doing that to an adequate degree.

So yeah, I would hold off on the PSU unless you start having full system shut-downs or your GPU's performance takes a dive (also indicative of wattage starvation).


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> switch the rads to the bottom and set them to exhaust.


LOL, yeah if he wants to set his carpet on fire while he attempts to put his case into orbit like the space-shuttle in your avatar. Actually I have seen a 2-3 C difference on my primary GPU solely with the front grill removed from the case as it has a 2" thick sub-frame support smack-dab in the middle of it that sits about an inch or so in front of the primary's rad, which is set up as exhaust, which tells me:

A. Resistance, however slight (If only the horizontal bar on the front grill of the Air 540 as can be seen here has an impact on radiator performance, even when said resistance is on the exhaust side, imagine these positioned as exhaust an inch away from the floor, with heat naturally wanting to rise back into the radiator to top it off.)

B. If one is seeking to maximize performance of their radiators, one should not place them as exhaust on the floor of their case.


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> switch the rads to the bottom and set them to exhaust.


that dont work because the bottom can place only 120mm fans.
the nzxt x40 had an 140 mm rad.


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> LOL, yeah if he wants to set his carpet on fire while he attempts to put his case into orbit like the space-shuttle in your avatar. Actually I have seen a 2-3 C difference on my primary GPU solely with the front grill removed from the case as it has a 2" thick sub-frame support smack-dab in the middle of it that sits about an inch or so in front of the primary's rad, which is set up as exhaust, which tells me:
> 
> A. Resistance, however slight (If only the horizontal bar on the front grill of the Air 540 as can be seen here has an impact on radiator performance, even when said resistance is on the exhaust side, imagine these positioned as exhaust an inch away from the floor, with heat naturally wanting to rise back into the radiator to top it off.)
> 
> B. If one is seeking to maximize performance of their radiators, one should not place them as exhaust on the floor of their case.


i have modded the front plate to get more airflow.
also, my pc is elevated up at the same height as my desk. so the carfpet dont get on fire XD


----------



## 031Dutch

@ vulcan78

so your idea is like this



2 x 120 mm bottom intake. that helps the 2 rad`s with cooling air. the 140 mm fans in push pull on the x40 excaust the front case

the rear 140 mm fan becomes a intake fan also and helps the corsair h100i
2 cool


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> @ vulcan78
> 
> so your idea is like this
> 
> 
> 
> 2 x 120 mm bottom intake. that helps the 2 rad`s with cooling air. the 140 mm fans in push pull on the x40 excaust the front case
> 
> the rear 140 mm fan becomes a intake fan also and helps the corsair h100i
> 2 cool


Have reverse cooling, your CPU isnt likely to output *that much* heat have the back, top and bottom fans as intakes and the GPU rads as exhausts, nice +ve airflow then.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> your CPU isnt likely to output *that much* heat have the back, top .......... fans as intakes and the GPU rads as exhausts, .


Good point, my best results have been with the 280mm CPU radiator on top set to intake on my 400r. Of course, everyones system just like their components is going to vary, its pretty important to not just consider several configurations but actually try them and test them. The GPU radiators have to be exhausted IMO, they just generate A LOT of heat.

After many test configurations the best configuration i found for my system is.......140mm fans on the H-110 on top are on intake, The 140mm right below it on the back is on exhaust. The two 120mm fans on the front bottom of my case are on intake, and both 140mm fan H-90s are mounted on the side panel set to exhaust. Im not sure how accurate the temp probes on the fan controllers I have are but I have 3 in the open areas of the case trying to determine temps on various locations of the air circuit and the highest number im reaching is ~85F after gaming for an hour.


----------



## Mugamat

Hi everyone. Firstly i`d like to appologize for bad english.
About 4 month ago i got kraken G10 installed on my R9 290. Mounted GC heatsink and addition cooler. I runs with Corsair H55.

There is no any problem with temps but however i`m looking to upgrade GPU cooling. Can any body give me advice about using Kraken G10 with Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate kit?


----------



## Wesleydn

Hi all i have a major problem with mine, the idle temp is low but it didnt change the Load temp much and after load it takes about 30mins to get back to idle temp. I expected to get the temps around 50 at most 55.

Can anyone help me?

Before Change:
GPU Idle- 50
GPU Full Load- 79

After change
GPU Idle- 27
GPU full Load- 70

What was changed
GPU GTX 970: Stock MSI cooling changed to
Kraken G10 bracket (Coolmaster 92mm blade master) with Corsiar H90 (Noctua NF-14 in push, Corsair AF 140 quite in pull)
No Vram or other heat sinks added, GPU has a plate already
http://www.hardocp.com/image.html?image=MTQxMTk3NjU5NW5pdEZaMTFFZzFfMV83X2wuanBn

Rig/setup
Case H440
140 GPU AIO on back as intake
280mm CPU rad at front as intake
3x corsair SP120 Quite Editions at the top as exhaust.


----------



## Mugamat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> Hi all i have a major problem with mine, the idle temp is low but it didnt change the Load temp much and after load it takes about 30mins to get back to idle temp. I expected to get the temps around 50 at most 55.
> 
> Can anyone help me?
> 
> Before Change:
> GPU Idle- 50
> GPU Full Load- 79
> 
> After change
> GPU Idle- 27
> GPU full Load- 70
> 
> What was changed
> GPU GTX 970: Stock MSI cooling changed to
> Kraken G10 bracket (Coolmaster 92mm blade master) with Corsiar H90 (Noctua NF-14 in push, Corsair AF 140 quite in pull)
> No Vram or other heat sinks added, GPU has a plate already
> http://www.hardocp.com/image.html?image=MTQxMTk3NjU5NW5pdEZaMTFFZzFfMV83X2wuanBn
> 
> Rig/setup
> Case H440
> 140 GPU AIO on back as intake
> 280mm CPU rad at front as intake
> 3x corsair SP120 Quite Editions at the top as exhaust.


I can imagine two reasons: Bad contact between gpu and waterblock or you assemled coolers to intake hot air into case with bad outcooling. Seems to be first one.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> Hi all i have a major problem with mine, the idle temp is low but it didnt change the Load temp much and after load it takes about 30mins to get back to idle temp. I expected to get the temps around 50 at most 55.
> 
> Can anyone help me?
> 
> Before Change:
> GPU Idle- 50
> GPU Full Load- 79
> 
> After change
> GPU Idle- 27
> GPU full Load- 70
> 
> What was changed
> GPU GTX 970: Stock MSI cooling changed to
> Kraken G10 bracket (Coolmaster 92mm blade master) with Corsiar H90 (Noctua NF-14 in push, Corsair AF 140 quite in pull)
> No Vram or other heat sinks added, GPU has a plate already
> http://www.hardocp.com/image.html?image=MTQxMTk3NjU5NW5pdEZaMTFFZzFfMV83X2wuanBn
> 
> Rig/setup
> Case H440
> 140 GPU AIO on back as intake
> 280mm CPU rad at front as intake
> 3x corsair SP120 Quite Editions at the top as exhaust.


The variation in your idle temp before and after can probably be explained by the 0db tech. The fans are simply not turned on below 67 or 60C with the 970s. I do not remember which exactly off hand.

As for your max temp, I agree with the above poster, check that the cold plate is mounted correctly. Simply pull it off and look at the TIM pattern to see if it is seating correctly and that will eliminate or confirm this as likely issue.

Are the fans on your GPU radiator exhausting the case?


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugamat*
> 
> I can imagine two reasons: Bad contact between gpu and waterblock or you assemled coolers to intake hot air into case with bad outcooling. Seems to be first one.


I Tightened the screws around the AIO and swapped the radiator around so the tubes are on the bottom of the radiator and it seems to have taken down the max temp to 52 which is great.
I used a H90 which comes with past on it already, i read somewhere u need to put 1.5x-2x as much past on a gpu than a CPU.
Should i take it apart and clean it and add past? and how much?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The variation in your idle temp before and after can probably be explained by the 0db tech. The fans are simply not turned on below 67 or 60C with the 970s. I do not remember which exactly off hand.
> 
> As for your max temp, I agree with the above poster, check that the cold plate is mounted correctly. Simply pull it off and look at the TIM pattern to see if it is seating correctly and that will eliminate or confirm this as likely issue.
> 
> Are the fans on your GPU radiator exhausting the case?


Even when i ran the fans it wouldnt go below 40.

Read what i said about the above post

GPU AIO 140 brining air into the case at teh back
Front i have the 280mm radiator brining air into the case
and top i have 3x120 fans taking air out


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> I Tightened the screws around the AIO and swapped the radiator around so the tubes are on the bottom of the radiator and it seems to have taken down the max temp to 52 which is great.
> I used a H90 which comes with past on it already, i read somewhere u need to put 1.5x-2x as much past on a gpu than a CPU.
> Should i take it apart and clean it and add past? and how much?
> Even when i ran the fans it wouldnt go below 40.
> 
> Read what i said about the above post
> 
> GPU AIO 140 brining air into the case at teh back
> Front i have the 280mm radiator brining air into the case
> and top i have 3x120 fans taking air out


I suppose it's worth cleaning and applying new paste.

Have you checked the pump? is it operating near full RPM? it's possible it's only operating at half speed.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkReign32*
> 
> I suppose it's worth cleaning and applying new paste.
> 
> Have you checked the pump? is it operating near full RPM? it's possible it's only operating at half speed.


Ill test a bit more before i take it apart.

I cant check it, its plugged directly into the PSU, must i take it off the PSu and put it on the MB?


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> Ill test a bit more before i take it apart.
> 
> I cant check it, its plugged directly into the PSU, must i take it off the PSu and put it on the MB?


If it's plugged directly into the PSU via a molex to 3(or 4) pin connector I'd assume it's running at full rpm.

I was just looking at the specs for the H90. It looks like it makes of a higher FPI radiator. Have you tried the stock fans? The NF-14 doesn't seem to provide much static pressure (1.5 or so). Might be worth the go. Also, we're all working under the assumption that the card itself is running under stock settings. Can you give us info on that too?


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkReign32*
> 
> If it's plugged directly into the PSU via a molex to 3(or 4) pin connector I'd assume it's running at full rpm.
> 
> I was just looking at the specs for the H90. It looks like it makes of a higher FPI radiator. Have you tried the stock fans? The NF-14 doesn't seem to provide much static pressure (1.5 or so). Might be worth the go. Also, we're all working under the assumption that the card itself is running under stock settings. Can you give us info on that too?


I use NF-14 as push as it is quite and SP
I use AF140 as pull.

My GPU
Voltage: Default
Power Limit: 110%
Core clock: 1500Mhz
Memory Clock: 3800MHZ
Fan: 0% as i have the G10

Changed the setup of my computer
240MM rad at front pulls air into case
3x120 at the top pulls air in
the 140 rad for GPU pulls air out


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> I use NF-14 as push as it is quite and SP
> I use AF140 as pull.
> 
> My GPU
> Voltage: Default
> Power Limit: 110%
> Core clock: 1500Mhz
> Memory Clock: 3800MHZ
> Fan: 0% as i have the G10
> 
> Changed the setup of my computer
> 240MM rad at front pulls air into case
> 3x120 at the top pulls air in
> the 140 rad for GPU pulls air out


Let us know how the new set up fairs.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkReign32*
> 
> Let us know how the new set up fairs.


Same temps.. Will take it apart and clean and add new thermal paste. The question is how much? A pea size like a cpu? Or more or less?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> I Tightened the screws around the AIO and swapped the radiator around so the tubes are on the bottom of the radiator and it seems to have taken down the max temp to 52 which is great.
> I used a H90 which comes with past on it already, i read somewhere u need to put 1.5x-2x as much past on a gpu than a CPU.
> Should i take it apart and clean it and add past? and how much?
> Even when i ran the fans it wouldnt go below 40.
> 
> Read what i said about the above post
> 
> GPU AIO 140 brining air into the case at teh back
> Front i have the 280mm radiator brining air into the case
> and top i have 3x120 fans taking air out


As for "read the post" i was doing my best on my POS phone. I simply cant see it well so my apologies if I am missing some things.

Have you reprogrammed the bios on the gpu? it should not turn the fans on below 60C, even if you change it in the software. At least thats how the two 970s I have played with have been. Are you running multiple monitors? A multi gpu setup will stop the 900s from being able to downclock at idle and increase the idle temps a bit. I guess all im trying to say is the idle temps are normal and a non issue.

Take a pic of the tim after you pull the cooler and let us take a look. The pea method works fine for gpus too, obviously you wouldnt need as big of a pea though its no big deal to use a "little" much if its not conductive and non capacitive TIM.

I will be putting the G-10 and H-90s on my 970s this weekend. Did you place a fan on the output side of the gpu over the vrms? I am rigging some up just to be on the safe side. I had a pair of nanoxia 92mm deep silence fans laying around with nothing better to do.


----------



## Mugamat

Can anobody know does Kraken G10 Compatiable with Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate? This 320mm rad looks huge..


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugamat*
> 
> Can anobody know does Kraken G10 Compatiable with Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate? This 320mm rad looks huge..


Yes it is compatible, it's still an Asetek based cooler.


----------



## Wesleydn

The
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> As for "read the post" i was doing my best on my POS phone. I simply cant see it well so my apologies if I am missing some things.
> 
> Have you reprogrammed the bios on the gpu? it should not turn the fans on below 60C, even if you change it in the software. At least thats how the two 970s I have played with have been. Are you running multiple monitors? A multi gpu setup will stop the 900s from being able to downclock at idle and increase the idle temps a bit. I guess all im trying to say is the idle temps are normal and a non issue.
> 
> Take a pic of the tim after you pull the cooler and let us take a look. The pea method works fine for gpus too, obviously you wouldnt need as big of a pea though its no big deal to use a "little" much if its not conductive and non capacitive TIM.
> 
> I will be putting the G-10 and H-90s on my 970s this weekend. Did you place a fan on the output side of the gpu over the vrms? I am rigging some up just to be on the safe side. I had a pair of nanoxia 92mm deep silence fans laying around with nothing better to do.


I set the fan do manual on the GPU and its set to 0 the whole time as i dont have a fan plugged into the GPU now.
Running 1 monitor and the game im running is (4k DRS res on 1080p monitor with a few ultra settings, getting 75+FPS)
Ye the Idel is fine for me, but want to try get teh GPU to below 50 under load.

I will take it apart now and then reply once i have a pic

What do you mean by the last part? Did i put a fan on the output side of the gpu? If you talking about the fan mount on the G10 the fan is mounted there to blow air onto the GPU, fan is running at 2100 RPM which is 70%
My G10 was very easy to put to on.


----------



## Wesleydn

Sorry for double post, Wanted to show off the final product
Idle: 28-32 depending on room temp
Under load after an hour of gaming: 55-58 depending on room temp

GPU Specs: MSI GTX 970 Gaming
Voltage: Default
Power Limit: 110%
Core clock: 1500Mhz
Memory Clock: 3800MHZ
Fan: 0% as i have the G10


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> Sorry for double post, Wanted to show off the final product
> Idle: 28-32 depending on room temp
> Under load after an hour of gaming: 55-58 depending on room temp
> 
> GPU Specs: MSI GTX 970 Gaming
> Voltage: Default
> Power Limit: 110%
> Core clock: 1500Mhz
> Memory Clock: 3800MHZ
> Fan: 0% as i have the G10
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Might I suggest running the GPU power cables the other way so they are seen less, so instead of going around the G10 and hoses just put them directly to the nearest grommet or the PSU cover.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Might I suggest running the GPU power cables the other way so they are seen less, so instead of going around the G10 and hoses just put them directly to the nearest grommet or the PSU cover.


Whats the point of haveing nice cables if you cant show them off









I dont mind them and like them so will keep them the cay they are, but thanks.


----------



## NIK1

Just got my G10 delivered today to hook up on my Gigabyte Ati 7970.I have read here on some posts that it is good to put heatsinks on the video cards memory and other spots to help in cooling.I was going to order some from amazon but they do not ship that kind of electronic product to canada.Anyone know what I would need for my 7970 and where else I can get these heatsinks.Really,are these things needed with the g10 or is this just added for extra cooling if you ovrclock the card.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Just got my G10 delivered today to hook up on my Gigabyte Ati 7970.I have read here on some posts that it is good to put heatsinks on the video cards memory and other spots to help in cooling.I was going to order some from amazon but they do not ship that kind of electronic product to canada.Anyone know what I would need for my 7970 and where else I can get these heatsinks.Really,are these things needed with the g10 or is this just added for extra cooling if you ovrclock the card.


Some cards have heat plates on already like mine, I would use the G10 with a good fan and AIO and test the temps i know lots of people who have G10 and dont have Vram and there is no problem.


----------



## d0mini

Would you put an H100 on your CPU or your GPU given the choice, with an H50 to put on the other?

I'm thinking of downsizing my rig into the 380t, and it looks like it has enough space for one 240mm and one 120mm, so I'm thinking ahead to cooling configs


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Would you put an H100 on your CPU or your GPU given the choice, with an H50 to put on the other?
> 
> I'm thinking of downsizing my rig into the 380t, and it looks like it has enough space for one 240mm and one 120mm, so I'm thinking ahead to cooling configs


Radiator Mount Locations Rear:
120mm
Side: 240mm

Compatible Corsair Liquid Coolers H55, H60, H75, H80i, H100i

So I would use the
240mm for CPU as a full config
120mm for GPU with push/pull config


----------



## d0mini

Thank you for the input







It's not happening for a while, but when it does, I will try it as you say


----------



## mark_thaddeus

I have my G10 mounted on my Galaxy 780 Ti HOF. I registered on page 1, but forgot to include that my card uses a non-reference PCB. I hope the OP can update it!

Here's a pic of the setup:


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus*
> 
> I have my G10 mounted on my Galaxy 780 Ti HOF. I registered on page 1, but forgot to include that my card uses a non-reference PCB. I hope the OP can update it!
> 
> Here's a pic of the setup:


Nice use of contrasting colours you should add more white components! Maybe the front intake fan frames could be painted white?

EDIT: If the CPU AIO will fit on the front intake then that (for me at least) would be more aesthetically pleasing.

EDIT:EDIT: I will upload a picture of my installed G10 with H75 on my 290x when I have finished making a front plate for it as the H75 doesn't fit (on R9 290s) without the face plate of the H75 removed which looks horrible.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Nice use of contrasting colours you should add more white components! Maybe the front intake fan frames could be painted white?


Agree and maybe white Cables? Bitfenix has white extension cables i think


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus*
> 
> I have my G10 mounted on my Galaxy 780 Ti HOF. I registered on page 1, but forgot to include that my card uses a non-reference PCB. I hope the OP can update it!
> 
> Here's a pic of the setup:


Dont move your aio to the front that would be dumb as recommended by another person....and where it is isnt exactly helping your airflow try to put it to ths back or top back because the way its set up now its just pulling air from the front and sucking it out the top imediately before it hits any components...


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Dont move your aio to the front that would be dumb as recommended by another person....and where it is isnt exactly helping your airflow try to put it to ths back or top back because the way its set up now its just pulling air from the front and sucking it out the top imediately before it hits any components...


I only said it would **to me** look nicer. I really doubt moving it or leaving it to whatever position would make a profound difference for temps.


----------



## NIK1

I got my Kraken G10 yesterday and am going to install it later on today.I also got some Enzotech memory Ramsinks to put on the memory of my ati 7970 card.Has anyone used these ramsinks and how good is the thermal tape thats on them.Peel and stick.How long should I wait after sticking the ramsinks on before putting the card back in my computer.It must need some dry time.The instructions dont say jack about this.Any help appreciated.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I got my Kraken G10 yesterday and am going to install it later on today.I also got some Enzotech memory Ramsinks to put on the memory of my ati 7970 card.Has anyone used these ramsinks and how good is the thermal tape thats on them.Peel and stick.How long should I wait after sticking the ramsinks on before putting the card back in my computer.It must need some dry time.The instructions dont say jack about this.Any help appreciated.


I laid the card flat and heated them up a little with a hair dryer to make sure the adhesive cured. I left it laying overnight to be on the safe side. None have come off so far. Be sure to clean the cip surface real good with alcohol.


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for the info on the ramsinks.I am going to use a Corsair H55 in push/pull with the G10.What fans would you reccomend of the 3 kinds I have for the H55 rad.I have 2 Swiftech 120 mm fans,or 2 Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition fans,or 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM.What would be the best for the rad.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Nice use of contrasting colours you should add more white components! Maybe the front intake fan frames could be painted white?
> 
> EDIT: If the CPU AIO will fit on the front intake then that (for me at least) would be more aesthetically pleasing.
> 
> EDIT:EDIT: I will upload a picture of my installed G10 with H75 on my 290x when I have finished making a front plate for it as the H75 doesn't fit (on R9 290s) without the face plate of the H75 removed which looks horrible.


I do plan on putting more white highlights inside, I have had the case painted with white highlights outside!

Unfortunately, 2 AIOs will not fit up front, it has to be a single 120 or 240 rad.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ldewitt*
> 
> Dont move your aio to the front that would be dumb as recommended by another person....and where it is isnt exactly helping your airflow try to put it to ths back or top back because the way its set up now its just pulling air from the front and sucking it out the top imediately before it hits any components...


The front is exhausting and I have intakes in the back, so air does hit the components. I do plan on trying out your suggestion in trying to move both radiators to the top and having my intakes up front.


----------



## Karossua

Can anybody know does Kraken G10 Compatiable with Cooler Master Seidon 120M?
In the list , a member uses a cooler master Seidon but, I'm not sure because there is no evidence of its use.


----------



## fanchiuho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karossua*
> 
> Can anobody know does Kraken G10 Compatiable with Cooler Master Seidon 120M?
> In the list , a member uses a cooler master Seidon but, I'm not sure because there is no evidence of its use


Most probably not, the G10 needs the teeth on the Asetek blocks which the Seidon series lack.

Unless we're talking about modding that thing...


----------



## benfica101

Hey mate, Yeah I to have a Corsair AIR 540 with 2 R9 290's Kraken cooled (Corsair H55). Its summer right now here in Aus and I'm getting around 55'c GPU1, 58'C gpu2 this is with the fans set around 1200Rpm. Ive got them mounted in the front of my case exhausting they really do push out a lot of heat so I assumed the most logical thing to do was have that air leave the case. I've swapped out my H100i and went with the H90, this will let me have the 2x140mm fans at the top in taking fresh air. It kind of doesn't meet the standard of PC cooling in the front out the top, but its working alright. But in Winter the gpu's rarely hit above 50'c


----------



## NIK1

I installed the G10 last night on my Gigabyte 7970 hd card with a new Corsair H55/push/pull useing Swiftech 120 mm fans.I also swapped out the stock 92 mm fan with a Noctua 92 mm one.The gpu was recessed,so I put on a copper shim made for the 7970 from frozen cpu.My idle temp after installing the G10 is 31 cel,before it was 35.I ran the gpu stress test with Adia64 for one hour and my max temp was 53-54 cel.Before it was 67-68 with the stock cooling setup.14-15 cel max temp drop,does idle and max temps look alright.I used the stock preapplied tim that came on the h55 and under the copper shim I used prolimatech pk-3.I like the pk3 and have put on many cpu's.Should I clean the stock tim from the h55 and put the pk3 on or is it not worth the effort.Anyway,let me know how these temps look.I am curious to see what others get with their G10.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I installed the G10 last night on my Gigabyte 7970 hd card with a new Corsair H55/push/pull useing Swiftech 120 mm fans.I also swapped out the stock 92 mm fan with a Noctua 92 mm one.The gpu was recessed,so I put on a copper shim made for the 7970 from frozen cpu.My idle temp after installing the G10 is 31 cel,before it was 35.I ran the gpu stress test with Adia64 for one hour and my max temp was 53-54 cel.Before it was 67-68 with the stock cooling setup.14-15 cel max temp drop,does idle and max temps look alright.I used the stock preapplied tim that came on the h55 and under the copper shim I used prolimatech pk-3.I like the pk3 and have put on many cpu's.Should I clean the stock tim from the h55 and put the pk3 on or is it not worth the effort.Anyway,let me know how these temps look.I am curious to see what others get with their G10.


Thats normal temps for a G10 some people drop more like me but i had higher temps. iwent from 78 under load to 53 under load
Most Idle around 30 and then most will get max temps of 50-60 depending on card, room temp, AIO config, etc some with really cool rooms and a good setup can even achieve 45 under load.
But those temps are good
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info on the ramsinks.I am going to use a Corsair H55 in push/pull with the G10.What fans would you reccomend of the 3 kinds I have for the H55 rad.I have 2 Swiftech 120 mm fans,or 2 Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition fans,or 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM.What would be the best for the rad.


Best Push/Pull Config i have tested and read about is A SP fan in push and AF fan in Pull, I personally would go with Noctua SP and push as it has a sqaure frame and then a AF fan as pull, Dont have a AF fan then i would use 2 Nocua fans then 2SP120 then 2 Swift


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for the info.What do you think of gentle typhoon fans.I have 2 of these kicking around.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info.What do you think of gentle typhoon fans.I have 2 of these kicking around.


dont know them but i gather they are AF? so put 1 noctua as push and 1 typhoon as pull,
I have the H90 and Noctua as push and AF140 quite edition as pull


----------



## NIK1

Here is the Gentle Typhoon 1850 Specs

Size: 120x25mm, 9 blades
Bearing: Double ball bearings
Speed: 1850 RPM
Airflow: 57.7 CFM from the website, 58.3 CFM from the box (Nidec says 58 CFM for theirs)
SPL: 28 dBA box and website
Static Pressure: 2.9 mmH2O (from Nidec)


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I installed the G10 last night on my Gigabyte 7970 hd card with a new Corsair H55/push/pull useing Swiftech 120 mm fans.I also swapped out the stock 92 mm fan with a Noctua 92 mm one.The gpu was recessed,so I put on a copper shim made for the 7970 from frozen cpu.My idle temp after installing the G10 is 31 cel,before it was 35.I ran the gpu stress test with Adia64 for one hour and my max temp was 53-54 cel.Before it was 67-68 with the stock cooling setup.14-15 cel max temp drop,does idle and max temps look alright.I used the stock preapplied tim that came on the h55 and under the copper shim I used prolimatech pk-3.I like the pk3 and have put on many cpu's.Should I clean the stock tim from the h55 and put the pk3 on or is it not worth the effort.Anyway,let me know how these temps look.I am curious to see what others get with their G10.


Definitely remove the stock H55 TIM and use the PK3. Should drop temps by as much as 4C.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Definitely remove the stock H55 TIM and use the PK3. Should drop temps by as much as 4C.


not necessarily.
I used the TIm my H90 came with and then cleaned and replaced with it with aftermarket TIM and it stayed the exact same temp


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info.What do you think of gentle typhoon fans.I have 2 of these kicking around.


Slap those GT's on. Easily one of the best fans for high FPI rads. I have a few of them. Good acoustics and great static pressure. Kicks the SP120's butt.


----------



## DarkReign32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> not necessarily.
> I used the TIm my H90 came with and then cleaned and replaced with it with aftermarket TIM and it stayed the exact same temp


Chances are the stock TIM is Shin Etsu X23. That stuff is great. But that's an assumption on my part. It's generally what's used as oem TIM.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkReign32*
> 
> Chances are the stock TIM is Shin Etsu X23. That stuff is great. But that's an assumption on my part. It's generally what's used as oem TIM.


Seems like ive read somewhere that that is in fact what they use. Its decent whatever it is, ive never seen a drop in temps replacing it with MX-2 or MX-4. However placement may not be good out of the box, they are designed for cpus not gpus so make sure it will give sufficient coverage.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I use Gelid GC Extreme, and it dropped my GPU temps by 4C when compared to stock X31 TIM, which is also the Shin Etsu stuff.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benfica101*
> 
> Hey mate, Yeah I to have a Corsair AIR 540 with 2 R9 290's Kraken cooled (Corsair H55). Its summer right now here in Aus and I'm getting around 55'c GPU1, 58'C gpu2 this is with the fans set around 1200Rpm. Ive got them mounted in the front of my case exhausting they really do push out a lot of heat so I assumed the most logical thing to do was have that air leave the case. I've swapped out my H100i and went with the H90, this will let me have the 2x140mm fans at the top in taking fresh air. It kind of doesn't meet the standard of PC cooling in the front out the top, but its working alright. But in Winter the gpu's rarely hit above 50'c


Good idea, I also have an Air 540 set up very similarly, with the H55's mounted in the same spots and I also recently picked up an H60, for my 180W TDP 4930 no less, which works admirably and sits in what was an empty spot above the H55's exhausting out of the front. My concern and decision to go with the H60 was the same as yours, I didn't want a 240mm rad in the ceiling obstructing airflow over my memory and primary GPU's back-plate and AIO's in the front of the case, especially not when an H60 can be made to perform on par with a 240mm AIO. The CPU temps DO hit 80C in Prime 95, small FFT's, but only after 8-10 minutes and only on one core (which will run 5-6C higher than the others no matter what, I believe it is a lid issue) and from there it doesn't climb any higher at 1.365V as measured on the board with a multimeter at 4.5GHz. Prime95 peak temp average across all cores is around 73C. During normal use, i.e. gaming, temps don't exceed 55C. I did add an additional fan to the H60 and H50's. What I've done is relocated the two 140mm fans that came with the case to the ceiling as intake and as you have I've repositioned the rear fan as intake as well. I also have kept the side panel off as in my case (no pun intended) I have zip-tied an additional fan to a hole on the edge my primary GPU's back-plate as intake, which is feeding the G10's 92mm fan's on both GPU's and doing a good job of evacuating the heat from the 8 oz or so Enzotech copper heat-sink's I've scattered about both the GPU back-plates and the VRM cooling mid-plates. I also have another 140mm jury-rigged to the bottom outside of the PCI-E expansion slots that is then conveying this out of the back of the case. I've initially experimented with this particular fan as intake but just discovered today that it was pulling in the exhaust from my PSU (RM 850) as now that my 780 Ti's are on the Skyn3t vbios they are now getting the PSU to work harder with the slight bump in voltage and corresponding current draw (1.212V).

I'm getting 54C primary and 53C secondary by the end of both Heaven and Valley. I am running 3-1 PWM splitters from VGA to PWM adapters that original sent a signal to the ACX Coolers the G10's replaced now going to two fans on the H55's, push-pull, and the 92mm G10 fan. Unfortunately with the Silverstone 3-1 PWM splitter only the first fan that connects is actually PWM, apparently to not confuse the mobo from what I understand, which is actually ok as the Corsair fan's I've retained on the H55's and H60 are rather quiet at 100% load and you kinda want the 92mm G10 fan at 100% load and the Noiseblocker E-Loop B-12P's I've added to the other side of the AIO's are pretty noisy at full bore, so they get the PWM spot.

As far as temps while playing for extended periods of time goes, playing Tomb Raider 2013 for 3 hour or so at a given time the primary and secondary temps will hit 57 and 56C respectively but these are peak temps, they usually hover around 55 primary 54 secondary and sit there as the fans are running around 90% here (100% at 60C) and the heat can't really build up in the rads. This is with a slightly cooler than average ambient as it is cooling down some here in Northern Nevada, but not too much under 70F, say around 65-67F or so. I am using this game in particular as an example as the load on both GPU's is nearly always 99%, unlike say other games known to be demanding such as Crysis 3 or AC4: Black Flag where the load here, at least in my case (3D Vision at 2560x1440, all settings maxed) fluctuates between 70% and 99%. In TR 2013 IT IS NEARLY ALWAYS AT 99%. With the default vbios and ACX Coolers the temps would shoot right up to 80C, and I'm talking within a matter of 10 minutes, as this 780 Ti Classified demonstrates in only 6 minutes at nearly the same frequency (1150MHz here):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILrnf1JxZMo

With the Skyn3t vbios, primary would hit 90C in a similar amount of time. TR 2013, among a few other titles, was actually one of the primary reasons I sought out and settled on the Kraken G10 / H55 combo a.k.a "The poor man's custom-loop".

As far as performance at 2560x1440 in 3D, if anyone is curious, with all settings maxed, including TressFX, my rig is pulling 44 FPS min. and 55 FPS avg. in the TR 2013 benchmark. 3D is absolutely no joke. One separate image is rendered for each eye, to render 60 FPS 3D your system has to actually render 120 FPS....

I have to say, I am completely blown away with not simply the H55's ability to deal with my overclocked 780 Ti's, but also that a 120mm H60 is performing on par performance-wise as the Phanteks PH-TC14PE air-cooler that it replaced. Which itself is on par performance-wise with the Corsair 240mm AIO's:

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2

This is an H60 with two fan's in push-pull, with Gelid GC Extreme, an aggressive fan and pump algorithm (40% RPM at 25C increasing linearly to 100% at 65C) in a case with excellent air-flow.

Oh and I also wanted to mention something about my own personal testing with pump-speed on the H55's. Having SLI, I've done back to back runs with both pumps at 70% RPM (where they are now) and a few runs with one pump at 100% RPM and the other at 70% RPM and as far as I can tell there is next-to-no difference in performance between 70% and 100% RPM (pump RPM changes confirmed via AI Suite 3). Maybe 1-2C at the most. So ideally, for the sake of longevity, try the above and if you experience similar results on your end set your pump speed to 70% or even 60%. My H60's pump is plugged into the 'CPU OPT' fan header which is PWM so it gets to relax at idle and go to work under load, which is really the ideal set up.

Here is an existing video from my ongoing build-log showing the jury-rigged fan in the PCI-E slot area I was talking about. If youre going to do this, remember what I said, I was seeing 5C higher temps on my secondary and it took me a while to figure out the reason why; this fan as intake was pulling in hot exhaust from my PSU which is right next to it and sending it over my secondary GPU. I might get around to posting the G10, Swift, and 3D Vision update tomorrow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQ-OQ6SFnHk

Oh and the reason for switching from the air-cooler to the H60 was that the GPU back-plates were getting very hot and I wanted to both add copper heat-sinks to both GPU's and allow airflow to fun over the primary, which was impossible with the air-cooler in place. I am happy to report that it was a win-win decision as I brought the temps down by 6-7C on the primary, and then by zip-tying a 140mm fan to the primary's back-plate as intake brought down the temps 6-7C on the secondary as well and as far as the CPU is concerned I am apparently enjoying 240mm radiator performance with half the footprint.

If you afford to do so, I highly, HIGHLY recommend acquiring both VRM cooling plates and back-plates as they will help tremendously, especially with a bunch of copper heat-sinks applied to them.

TLDR:

I've performed a fan mod that consists of zip-tying a 140mm fan to the back-plate of the primary GPU as intake that if used in conjunction with adequate VRM cooling will help keep your VRM and overall GPU assembly temps in check, all will be made clear in an upcoming video.


----------



## vulcan78

Update:

Here is snap-shot of a one hour Crysis 3 play-session with peak GPU temps of 52 and 51 C and avg. temps of 47 and 46 C. Crysis 3 is unique in that if you have a hex or octo-core CPU, i.e. Ivy E or Haswell E, it will actually use all of those cores and it is a great indicator of real world thermal performance. Here you can see that one core that likes to be about 5 C higher than the others as I previously mentioned, Core #1, with a peak of 64 C with all of the other cores in the high 50's.



As I was saying, these are the kind of temps that can be expected with a good AIO set-up. 46-47 C average is amazing for Crysis 3 in 3D at 2560x1440 with all of the settings maxed out. If memory serves me I remember my primary getting up to 80 C with the default vbios on the ACX coolers, which themselves are probably as good as it gets on air.

So far I am thoroughly loving these 120mm AIO's.


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## fx63007850

here mine but without aio as have a custom loop

























Sent from my apple/craple using Tapatalk


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## Mugamat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx63007850*
> 
> here mine but without aio as have a custom loop
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Nice. Can i was looking for CPU waterblocks which is compatible with G10 to use on GPU. Can u please help me? For example model of your waterblock?


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## fx63007850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugamat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fx63007850*
> 
> here mine but without aio as have a custom loop
> 
> 
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> Nice. Can i was looking for CPU waterblocks which is compatible with G10 to use on GPU. Can u please help me? For example model of your waterblock?
Click to expand...

its not a cpu block its a gpu only and its a alphacool hf 14 ati/nvidia smart motion universal edition and i got the copper edition.

this is not ment to fit the g10 but it does

Sent from my apple/craple using Tapatalk


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx63007850*
> 
> here mine but without aio as have a custom loop
> 
> Sent from my apple/craple using Tapatalk


Yeah that is very cool, I didn't even know that was possible. What kind of temps?


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## fx63007850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fx63007850*
> 
> here mine but without aio as have a custom loop
> 
> Sent from my apple/craple using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah that is very cool, I didn't even know that was possible. What kind of temps?
Click to expand...

card is a 7950 the highest its been is 54c after playing shadow of mordor for 2.5 hours on max

Sent from my apple/craple using Tapatalk


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## NIK1

All is good with my G10 keeping my 7970 nice and cool.What do you think about this idea.Right at the back of the pc case just below where the video card sits in the slot with the G10 I can zip tie a 92 mm fan to blow cool air into the case just under the video card and G10.Someone here did this add on but I can not remember if it was blowing cool air in or if it was exhausting.Which way should I put the fan if I try this.Intake or exhaust.Any suggestions.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> All is good with my G10 keeping my 7970 nice and cool.What do you think about this idea.Right at the back of the pc case just below where the video card sits in the slot with the G10 I can zip tie a 92 mm fan to blow cool air into the case just under the video card and G10.Someone here did this add on but I can not remember if it was blowing cool air in or if it was exhausting.Which way should I put the fan if I try this.Intake or exhaust.Any suggestions.


I think it would be more beneficial if you zip tied a 92mm fan to blow onto the card. I think it is not necessary, but if you have an extra 92mm fan laying around, or are experiencing high VRM temperatures, then you should considering adding a fan to blow onto the GPU.


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## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I think it would be more beneficial if you zip tied a 92mm fan to blow onto the card. I think it is not necessary, but if you have an extra 92mm fan laying around, or are experiencing high VRM temperatures, then you should considering adding a fan to blow onto the GPU.


It depends on what case you have and where your PSU is. Let me elaborate, I did this mod, as I detail here in this build-log video, and it worked wonders as exhaust when my cards had their original ACX coolers but when I installed the G55's in the front of the case I turned this fan around as intake and I was seeing 5C higher temps on the secondary, it took me a few days but one day I was inspecting this fan I had placed in the PCI-E bracket area and discovered that under sufficient load, which the PSU is now seeing with my cards on the Skyn3t vbios, more voltage equals more current draw, that this fan as intake was pulling in the exhaust from the PSU which sits literally right next to it and blowing it over the secondary. Returning this fan to exhaust alleviated the 5C higher temps on the secondary, it was the problem.

Also, just to clarify, I did cover this in the part 1 of the video above but that has since been scrapped, but the H55's and H60 are all exhausting out of the front of the case, they are NOT intaking and I don't recommend that configuration in ANY case. You wan't the enormous amount of heat the H55's are capable of conveying OUT of your case, not back over your VRM's, that would be stupid.

Here is a part 2 video of another mod that can be done depending on whether or not you can zip-tie a 140mm as intake onto your primary's back-plate, I am waiting for my Bitfenix Spectre Pro 230mm fan to arrive and then its off to a local plastics shop to have them professionally cut in a matching hole in my Air 540's acrylic side-panel. It will look and perform very trick when its all done, hence the reason I haven't really published this Part 2, but you can get an idea of the 140mm mod, which did help bring the temps down 6-7C over the secondary and is also feeding the 92mm fan's on both GPU's. If youre running SLI or X-Fire I highly recommend this mod:


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## PinkoTheCommi

@Vulcan78

I do something really similar with my chassis. I have a spare 92mm fan exhausting out the back of the PCIe bracket covers. Its the white fan on the bottom left, I had to turn off my NZXT Hue so you can see it better. Luckily, I have a PSU cover/shroud, and I haven't gone SLI yet, so my fan on my PSU doesn't even spin up so PSU or SLI heat is not an issue. Also, I don't have to mod anything, the fan sits perfectly on the shroud. Every fan in my case set to intake except my top rear 120mm X31 Fans, and that extra 92mm Fan so that I have positive air pressure. My case used to collect a decent amount of dust and I clean it out monthly. After switching everything around to get optimal positive air pressure, the amount of dust in my case every month is a lot less.


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## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Vulcan78
> 
> I do something really similar with my chassis. I have a spare 92mm fan exhausting out the back of the PCIe bracket covers. Its the white fan on the bottom left, I had to turn off my NZXT Hue so you can see it better. Luckily, I have a PSU cover/shroud, and I haven't gone SLI yet, so my fan on my PSU doesn't even spin up so PSU or SLI heat is not an issue. Also, I don't have to mod anything, the fan sits perfectly on the shroud. Every fan in my case set to intake except my top rear 120mm X31 Fans, and that extra 92mm Fan so that I have positive air pressure. My case used to collect a decent amount of dust and I clean it out monthly. After switching everything around to get optimal positive air pressure, the amount of dust in my case every month is a lot less.


Smart minds think alike! If you ever go SLI you could do as I have and drill a few holes into your PCI-E bracket area and mount that fan on the outside. I think once I install my 230mm fan into my side-panel (155 CFM, 1.8mm/H20) that I am going to still be at positive pressure after returning the fan sitting above my mobo's heat-bridge to exhaust and running at 50% RPM. Problem is, if I wan't to minimize dust accumulation, I'm going to have to figure out how to get some kind of filter going on that 230mm fan, I've heard panty-hose works, but I just don't know if it will fit around a fan that big.


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## Aznlotus161

I have yet to spot anyone modding the G10 to accommodate Gigabyte's 970s due to positioning of the die I'm guessing, maybe a HG10 is more suitable for my situation.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> I have yet to spot anyone modding the G10 to accommodate Gigabyte's 970s due to positioning of the die I'm guessing, maybe a HG10 is more suitable for my situation.


I have the non reference board from MSI and the G10 worked without any problems and im getting 47 under load with a 1500mhz overclock


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## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> I have the non reference board from MSI and the G10 worked without any problems and im getting 47 under load with a 1500mhz overclock


How are you cooling your VRM?


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> How are you cooling your VRM?


The MSI GPU has a cooling plate on it which i left on
http://www.hardocp.com/image.html?image=MTQxMTk3NjU5NW5pdEZaMTFFZzFfMV83X2wuanBn


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## maynard14

hi guys,,. im planning to re use my vrm heatsinks with thermal tape on them , i use to use them on my 290 but my 290 died so i have a new 290x reference, so im planning to put the vrm heatsinks on my new 290x


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> hi guys,,. im planning to re use my vrm heatsinks with thermal tape on them , i use to use them on my 290 but my 290 died so i have a new 290x reference, so im planning to put the vrm heatsinks on my new 290x


Sorry to hear that your 290 died. Any idea on what the cause of death was?


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Sorry to hear that your 290 died. Any idea on what the cause of death was?


im just playing shadow of mordor, and my it just black screen on me, after that i restarted my pc and no display, its just black screen, but i can hear windows boot, so i return to the store where i bought it and they replace it with a brand new 290x ref

my old 290 is unlock btw to 290x via bios flash

i didnt overclock the old 290 and before it black screen im using corsair h105 and nzxt g10 and gelid vrm heatsink for 290


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## NIK1

Just found this other liquid cooler in my computer storage closet.Its a Antec KUHLER H2O 920.It has a thicker rad than the Corsair H55 that I used for my G10.Should I swap the H55 out and put the H2O 920 in.Bigger,thicker rad means better cooling you would think.Any suggestions.


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## maynard14

yeah i want to know the answer too, coz im going to buy a antec kuhler 920


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> The MSI GPU has a cooling plate on it which i left on
> http://www.hardocp.com/image.html?image=MTQxMTk3NjU5NW5pdEZaMTFFZzFfMV83X2wuanBn


Oh cool, did you leave the back-plate in place to cool the memory on top of the card?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Just found this other liquid cooler in my computer storage closet.Its a Antec KUHLER H2O 920.It has a thicker rad than the Corsair H55 that I used for my G10.Should I swap the H55 out and put the H2O 920 in.Bigger,thicker rad means better cooling you would think.Any suggestions.


Does it have the same locking mechanism that interfaces with the G10 bracket that the H55 has? Is the radiator 120mm or 240mm? You won't see much of an improvement if its 120mm vs. an H55 in push-pull. For example the H80i really excels in AIO comparison articles mostly because of the fact that it comes with two 120mm fans in push-pull out of the box, when you add an additional fan to the H55 and H60 you get performance approximating that of the H80i, the 37mm rad thickness does help a bit, maybe 2-3 degrees at most. So if the Antec Kuhler is 120mm don't expect a big jump in peformance, if it is 240mm youre going to have to have enough room for it, and its also worth keeping in mind that an H55 and H60 in push-pull exhibits performance right on par with a 240mm radiator in only push or pull and a lot of cases wont accommodate a 240mm rad in the ceiling in push-pull as there isn't enough room. So in the end, I would only consider a 240mm rad over an H55 in push-pull if there was enough room fit a 240mm rad in push-pull in your case.

Oh and I want to point out that you can't actually fit an H60 to the G10, its water-block is of a different design, for CPU you can though, as I have.

Really the H55 is the best route with the G10, especially from a priceerformance perspective. Now that I've also picked up the H60 for the CPU I realize that the H55's coolant hoses are also of an ideal size that can run along side the G10's bracket, if the Antec Kuhler has thicker hoses youre going to have problems with it. You can see the difference in tube size here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZOYGH4SUE0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> yeah i want to know the answer too, coz im going to buy a antec kuhler 920


----------



## maynard14

thank you sir for your detailed answer, but i found a cheap antec 920 that is 2nd hand,. but im still thinking that its much better for me to buy a brand new h55 than a 2nd hand 920


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> thank you sir for your detailed answer, but i found a cheap antec 920 that is 2nd hand,. but im still thinking that its much better for me to buy a brand new h55 than a 2nd hand 920


H55 is more than enough for a single gpu. My 780 Ti gpu temp map out at 45C.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Oh cool, did you leave the back-plate in place to cool the memory on top of the card?


MSI 970 doesnt come with a backplate, but depending on the back plate you can put it on with no problem or you have to mod the bracket by either getting slightly longer screws or cutting some on the foam off.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> thank you sir for your detailed answer, but i found a cheap antec 920 that is 2nd hand,. but im still thinking that its much better for me to buy a brand new h55 than a 2nd hand 920


I would agree on getting a brand new corsair unit. We have discussed it somewhere way back in this thread, for the amount of money you would save getting used, the warranty and customer services Corsair offers is worth a little extra. They have a pretty good record of taking care of business if one of their product leaks and damages other components.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> thank you sir for your detailed answer, but i found a cheap antec 920 that is 2nd hand,. but im still thinking that its much better for me to buy a brand new h55 than a 2nd hand 920


At this point we're debating saving what, $20? I mean an H55 new shipped is $50! When you position this measly savings against the backdrop of thousands of dollars invested in top-tier componentry in the rest of your system the proposition is kinda absurd. Just get the H55, its got a NEW pump, NEW fan, absolutely NO chance of corrosion. This is a no-brainer.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> At this point we're debating saving what, $20? I mean an H55 new shipped is $50! When you position this measly savings against the backdrop of thousands of dollars invested in top-tier componentry in the rest of your system the proposition is kinda absurd. Just get the H55, its got a NEW pump, NEW fan, absolutely NO chance of corrosion. This is a no-brainer.


And a great warranty, I agree, no brainer.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> How are you cooling your VRM?


I would love to know this as well.

EDIT: Oops just caught the response.

Might sell my G1s and just get the MSI 970s since they're more G10 friendly.

Do the fans not ever spin due to being under 60C at load?

I think I can manage to squeeze two G10s with SLI setup since I have 1 PCIe slot in between.

I'm a noise freak.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> I think I can manage to squeeze two G10s with SLI setup since I have 1 PCIe slot in between.
> 
> .


Worked for me, not sure which case your running. Mounting the radiators was lots of fun for me, but I got it to work.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> I would love to know this as well.
> 
> EDIT: Oops just caught the response.
> 
> Might sell my G1s and just get the MSI 970s since they're more G10 friendly.
> 
> Do the fans not ever spin due to being under 60C at load?
> 
> I think I can manage to squeeze two G10s with SLI setup since I have 1 PCIe slot in between.
> 
> I'm a noise freak.


For everyone talking about you have to get v-ram heat sinks read this
http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/249280-how-hot-can-all-in-one-liquid-cooling-get/?p=3418727

I didnt plan on getting G10 for my card, i was lucky it had a v-ram heat sink which isnt necessary if you read the above.
I think the Gigabyte uses the Nvidia reference board so G10 should work no problem.

Correct when i had my stock MSI cooler fans never spun before 60 degrees
But my G10 90mm fan is connected to my MB and runs at low RPM and will only pick up speed and noise whn it goes above 40 and thats only when i game and i have headphones on so i dont hear it.
all my AIO pumps are on PSU power and all my fans in my case (8) are controlled by my mb and speedfan, i used speed fan because you can control them off any temp (CPU,GPU, individual core, and others). so all my fans run at low RPM for less noise (idle at 30 for GPU and CPU) then once i game my GPU temps go up and my fans all go to 100% after 40 degrees (40 for CPU and 48 for GPU under load/gaming)

Lots of people have SLI G10 so that shouldnt be a problem.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> For everyone talking about you have to get v-ram heat sinks read this
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/249280-how-hot-can-all-in-one-liquid-cooling-get/?p=3418727
> 
> I didnt plan on getting G10 for my card, i was lucky it had a v-ram heat sink which isnt necessary if you read the above.
> I think the Gigabyte uses the Nvidia reference board so G10 should work no problem.
> 
> Correct when i had my stock MSI cooler fans never spun before 60 degrees
> But my G10 90mm fan is connected to my MB and runs at low RPM and will only pick up speed and noise whn it goes above 40 and thats only when i game and i have headphones on so i dont hear it.
> all my AIO pumps are on PSU power and all my fans in my case (8) are controlled by my mb and speedfan, i used speed fan because you can control them off any temp (CPU,GPU, individual core, and others). so all my fans run at low RPM for less noise (idle at 30 for GPU and CPU) then once i game my GPU temps go up and my fans all go to 100% after 40 degrees (40 for CPU and 48 for GPU under load/gaming)
> 
> Lots of people have SLI G10 so that shouldnt be a problem.


I put nice copper heatsinks on my SLI 770s VRAM. Made no significant difference in performance or overclocking ability.

I run all my pumps off the mainboard, all Fans I run off two fan controllers so i can tune the temps and noise with a simple hand control.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Worked for me, not sure which case your running. Mounting the radiators was lots of fun for me, but I got it to work.


H440 so it'll be a squeeze.

Gonna go for the cheapest AIO I can get so probably the H55 rear mounted and front mounted.

Already have an H100i for my CPU so it's gonna have to do even tho warm air will be passed through, not too worried.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> For everyone talking about you have to get v-ram heat sinks read this
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/249280-how-hot-can-all-in-one-liquid-cooling-get/?p=3418727
> 
> I didnt plan on getting G10 for my card, i was lucky it had a v-ram heat sink which isnt necessary if you read the above.
> I think the Gigabyte uses the Nvidia reference board so G10 should work no problem.
> 
> Correct when i had my stock MSI cooler fans never spun before 60 degrees
> But my G10 90mm fan is connected to my MB and runs at low RPM and will only pick up speed and noise whn it goes above 40 and thats only when i game and i have headphones on so i dont hear it.
> all my AIO pumps are on PSU power and all my fans in my case (8) are controlled by my mb and speedfan, i used speed fan because you can control them off any temp (CPU,GPU, individual core, and others). so all my fans run at low RPM for less noise (idle at 30 for GPU and CPU) then once i game my GPU temps go up and my fans all go to 100% after 40 degrees (40 for CPU and 48 for GPU under load/gaming)
> 
> Lots of people have SLI G10 so that shouldnt be a problem.


Sweet, thanks for the read.

Gigabyte is odd, I asked a few NZXT reps and they didn't exactly answer my questions directly "go with the reference design"...okay.

And NZXT Deadpool definitely said the MSI and ASUS 970s work.

EDIT: Thanks for the great replies, appreciate it. Reppp


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> H440 so it'll be a squeeze.
> 
> Gonna go for the cheapest AIO I can get so probably the H55 rear mounted and front mounted.
> 
> Already have an H100i for my CPU so it's gonna have to do even tho warm air will be passed through, not too worried.
> Sweet, thanks for the read.
> 
> Gigabyte is odd, I asked a few NZXT reps and they didn't exactly answer my questions directly "go with the reference design"...okay.
> 
> And NZXT Deadpool definitely said the MSI and ASUS 970s work.
> 
> EDIT: Thanks for the great replies, appreciate it. Reppp


All Referance boards will have Nvida name and logo just above the PCI Lane on the card.
There is a site which i used to get the measurements of the 3 sizes the G10 fits and measured the spacing on my screws on my board to make sure one of the 3 sizes is my board before got my G10
http://www.overclock3d.net/gfx/articles/2014/05/12173220962l.jpg


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I would agree on getting a brand new corsair unit. We have discussed it somewhere way back in this thread, for the amount of money you would save getting used, the warranty and customer services Corsair offers is worth a little extra. They have a pretty good record of taking care of business if one of their product leaks and damages other components.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> At this point we're debating saving what, $20? I mean an H55 new shipped is $50! When you position this measly savings against the backdrop of thousands of dollars invested in top-tier componentry in the rest of your system the proposition is kinda absurd. Just get the H55, its got a NEW pump, NEW fan, absolutely NO chance of corrosion. This is a no-brainer.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> And a great warranty, I agree, no brainer.


yes totally agree with you all,. im getting a h55 later







thank you so much guys!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Can anyone think of a 92mm fan that would allow me to use 2, 2 slot cards (eg 2x 290Xs) with no gap between them?

I ask because I think the actual G10 unit itself and the cards will fit its just the fan that will hit the card and its so close... Anyone done it?


----------



## Sapporo

Guys. Where are gtx 980's vrms located ? On the left or right of the GPU ?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sapporo*
> 
> Guys. Where are gtx 980's vrms located ? On the left or right of the GPU ?


The pics I have seen, admittedly only a few variants, the vrms were on the right/rear side of the gpu. Due to the vrms being on the output side on the 970s, i rigged up fans there to push some air over the vrm heatsink. so far so good


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sapporo*
> 
> Guys. Where are gtx 980's vrms located ? On the left or right of the GPU ?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1398497/heatsink-placement-with-universal-gpu-blocks#post_20137984


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1398497/heatsink-placement-with-universal-gpu-blocks#post_20137984


That is an ancient post , the 970s and 980s do place the vrms on opposite sides of the GPU on the PCB.

980 pic


970 pic



VRM placement is not universal


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> That is an ancient post and not applicable here, the 970s and 980s do place the vrms on opposite sides of the GPU on the PCB.
> 
> 980 pic
> 
> 
> 970 pic


It is applicable as it shows what vram looks like, so all you need to do is look on your card to find them..


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> It is applicable as it shows what vram looks like, so all you need to do is look on your card to find them..


I didnt see where he asked abut VRAM.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I didnt see where he asked abut VRAM.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2120#post_23145127


----------



## Sapporo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The pics I have seen, admittedly only a few variants, the vrms were on the right/rear side of the gpu. Due to the vrms being on the output side on the 970s, i rigged up fans there to push some air over the vrm heatsink. so far so good


Although we know that "vrm/vram overheating frenzy w/ g10" happened because that review torturing the vga and it is very unlikely to occur during gaming sessions it's good do whatever we can to keep the card cool. Like adding heatsinks/fans.
And it's very good to know that 980 could be entirely cooled by g10.

Do you have picks of your 970+g10 setup ?

Thanks for your help.


----------



## Wesleydn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sapporo*
> 
> Although we know that "vrm/vram overheating frenzy w/ g10" happened because that review torturing the vga and it is very unlikely to occur during gaming sessions it's good do whatever we can to keep the card cool. Like adding heatsinks/fans.
> And it's very good to know that 980 could be entirely cooled by g10.
> 
> Do you have picks of your 970+g10 setup ?
> 
> Thanks for your help.


MSI GTX 970 Gaming (left the vram heatsink o nthat the MSI comes with) with Corsair H90
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2050#post_23103114


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wesleydn*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2120#post_23145127


If you read that post, it says VRM not VRAM. But whatever.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sapporo*
> 
> Although we know that "vrm/vram overheating frenzy w/ g10" happened because that review torturing the vga and it is very unlikely to occur during gaming sessions it's good do whatever we can to keep the card cool. Like adding heatsinks/fans.
> And it's very good to know that 980 could be entirely cooled by g10.
> 
> Do you have picks of your 970+g10 setup ?
> 
> Thanks for your help.


Im not sure which vrm/vram overheating frenzy your talking about. The 92mm fan that comes with the G-10 is adequate for cooling the vram and even the vram on the output side of the GPU that had no fan directly blowing on it was not an issue. I put copper heat sinks on the vram to see if it would help with overclocking on a pair of 770s these G-10s were on previously and there was no significant difference. Not a bad idea to use them, just did not make any difference in my experience.

As for VRMs. The VRMs that had issues, IIRC, were simply the ones that had no heat sink on them from the vendor, its definitely wise to add a heat sink to the VRMs if there is not one. Especially if you intend to OC the GPU.

I do not have pics of my current installation, but its nothing special. I simply fabricated a couple of small mounts and attached a 40mm Scythe mini kaze fan to each. The mounts are held in place by the screw for the cases's 2nd pci slot for each gpu. Attached them to a fan controller and angled them down to the vrm heat sink. Tuned them down to a silent speed and thats it. Quite simple. Probably to ghetto for some, lol. But It has been stable at ~1500 core on each gpu.


----------



## Sapporo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im not sure which vrm/vram overheating frenzy your talking about. The 92mm fan that comes with the G-10 is adequate for cooling the vram and even the vram on the output side of the GPU that had no fan directly blowing on it was not an issue. I put copper heat sinks on the vram to see if it would help with overclocking on a pair of 770s these G-10s were on previously and there was no significant difference. Not a bad idea to use them, just did not make any difference in my experience.
> 
> As for VRMs. The VRMs that had issues, IIRC, were simply the ones that had no heat sink on them from the vendor, its definitely wise to add a heat sink to the VRMs if there is not one. Especially if you intend to OC the GPU.
> 
> I do not have pics of my current installation, but its nothing special. I simply fabricated a couple of small mounts and attached a 40mm Scythe mini kaze fan to each. The mounts are held in place by the screw for the cases's 2nd pci slot for each gpu. Attached them to a fan controller and angled them down to the vrm heat sink. Tuned them down to a silent speed and thats it. Quite simple. Probably to ghetto for some, lol. But It has been stable at ~1500 core on each gpu.


I'm talking about the frenzy started after this review last year and nowadays aggravated by the fact that 970's vrms are on the left of gpu: http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/NZXT-Kraken-G10-Review-527/#IdleTemperature&NoiseLevels

_"...we are still able to see that the VRMs are running at dangerous levels. In fact, GPU-Z is able to report thermal readings for the VRM on the R9 290X and reported temperature as high as 112 °C in Furmark! For reference, the same sensors on the R9 290X reported temperatures of only 84 °C when using the stock cooler.

112 °C is an incredibly hot temperature for any computer component to run at, and frankly we are impressed that the card was able to survive these temperatures for even a short period of time. The GTX Titan is not nearly as bad, but based on the thermal images we estimate the VRMs on that card to be running around 90 °C which again is much higher than with the stock cooler. "_

But as I said before, futuremark is a card killer and do not represent the real world at all.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Is there a post or user here who has successfully used the G10 on the Gigabyte 970 G1?

Not too concerned with VRM temps as that seems to be an easier fix.

Just want to get an idea of overall fit as my case is pretty small/mid-sized.

Thanks for links, Wesleydn.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sapporo*
> 
> I'm talking about the frenzy started after this review last year and nowadays aggravated by the fact that 970's vrms are on the left of gpu: http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/NZXT-Kraken-G10-Review-527/#IdleTemperature&NoiseLevels
> 
> _"...we are still able to see that the VRMs are running at dangerous levels. In fact, GPU-Z is able to report thermal readings for the VRM on the R9 290X and reported temperature as high as 112 °C in Furmark! For reference, the same sensors on the R9 290X reported temperatures of only 84 °C when using the stock cooler.
> 
> 112 °C is an incredibly hot temperature for any computer component to run at, and frankly we are impressed that the card was able to survive these temperatures for even a short period of time. The GTX Titan is not nearly as bad, but based on the thermal images we estimate the VRMs on that card to be running around 90 °C which again is much higher than with the stock cooler. "_
> 
> But as I said before, futuremark is a card killer and do not represent the real world at all.


WOW. No I had not seen that, but having used these G-10s on my Sli 770s, I was well aware that there was no cooling on the output side of the gpu and knew I would have to have some air moving over the VRM heatsink. That has me wondering what mine are actually running with the fan setup I have rigged up. I am going to try and find my temp gun tomorrow and see what they are reading during load.


----------



## Sapporo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I am going to try and find my temp gun tomorrow and see what they are reading during load.


Please post the results here.
I believe you are fine while gaming or benchmarking heaven uniengine... Just don't run futuremark...


----------



## VSG

Furmark, not Futuremark- big difference!


----------



## Trondster

Hello, all. Long time lurker - first time poster.









I'm about to install a shiny new G10 with a Corsair H75 on my Asus DC2 290x. But - I see I have some dremeling to do - I just tried a dry fit, and one of my VRAM copper heat sinks touched the pump - or almost touched - either way I'm going to grind it down a bit:

(Edit: it seems that the pump will _just_ clear the heat sink, but I'll grind it a bit down anyway, just in case.







)

But - my problem concerns the supplied thumb screw nuts - although the G10 is listed as compatible with the R9 290X and Corsair H75, there is a plastic shroud on top of the H75 blocking the supplied nuts:
 (Meh - camera shake!)

The R9 290X needs to use the A-holes (hurr, hurr) located closest to the pump, and the very tight fit combined with the top shroud on the H75 is a problem.

So - should I try to find different nuts, should I Dremel the pump shroud, or should I try to remove the shroud (I'm not sure it's detachable)?

I'd don't mind dremeling the shroud (actually, I'm almost itching to do so, as I got a shiny new Dremel 4000 yesterday) , but that will surely drop the resale value of the H75, and if I'm unlucky I might risk damaging the pump..
Hmm - I wonder what the threading of the G10 screws are...

Any thoughts?

Edit II:
It seems that it in deed is possible to remove the pump cover: http://www.gr-tek.com.au/support-water-cooling-vs-air-cooling.php
..But that it probably would be a very bad idea to run the pump with the cover off.
Hmm - I guess I could remove the cover, and then trim the cover before reattaching it.


----------



## Sapporo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Furmark, not Futuremark- big difference!


Yeah, that's right. Sorry.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Edit II:
> It seems that it in deed is possible to remove the pump cover: http://www.gr-tek.com.au/support-water-cooling-vs-air-cooling.php
> ..But that it probably would be a very bad idea to run the pump with the cover off.
> Hmm - I guess I could remove the cover, and then trim the cover before reattaching it.


I just removed the cover on mine and left it off. I don't want to dremel it as it'd probably void the warranty.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I just removed the cover on mine and left it off. I don't want to dremel it as it'd probably void the warranty.


How do you get it off? Just use force, or are there any catches or similar?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> How do you get it off? Just use force, or are there any catches or similar?


Hold the top and bottom and pull gently, it should come off pretty easily, mine came off by accident at first.


----------



## Mugamat

Hi everyone. I`m using kraken g10 for about 4 month on my overclocked R9 290. Using it wis Corsair H55 With push&pull on exaust of my case. I made some acrylyc cover on the top mount and in glows in UV lights. I`m also added one cooler for another VRM. Using Gelid ICY Vision Heatsinks on another VRM and some no-named heatsink on memory. Here some photo of the card, and the temps (Feel sorry for bad quality and bad english.)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Sploosh

Alright, lets try this modification. I finally have everything in, so lets see...

The lineup, finally:


The card, Gigabyte R9 290 OC. Revision 1, so its just a standard R9 290 board with the cooler added:



I did not realize that I could just undo the screws in the back and then remove the massive heatsink by gently prying it off with a flat screwdriver. Instead I took a lot of time to pry off the fan attachment, ruining it in the process as they placed a screw in an area impossible to get out without removing the heatsink first. Lesson learned.





Finally have the thing off. Messy. And I wonder if I could ever reuse that conducting adhesive they placed on it.


Cleaned it with some isopropol alcohol. Didn't do a good job catching the sides. I hope that isn't going to cause an issue or I'm going to have to Q-Tip it with more isopropol alcohol.


Copper heatsinks on and Gelid kit:



Time to mount on the NZXT kit... And one of the screws are bad:



Time to wait and talk to NZXT to try and get a new hardware kit. How frustrating to stop this while so close to finishing.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sploosh*
> 
> Alright, lets try this modification. I finally have everything in, so lets see...
> 
> The lineup, finally:
> 
> 
> The card, Gigabyte R9 290 OC. Revision 1, so its just a standard R9 290 board with the cooler added:
> 
> 
> 
> I did not realize that I could just undo the screws in the back and then remove the massive heatsink by gently prying it off with a flat screwdriver. Instead I took a lot of time to pry off the fan attachment, ruining it in the process as they placed a screw in an area impossible to get out without removing the heatsink first. Lesson learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally have the thing off. Messy. And I wonder if I could ever reuse that conducting adhesive they placed on it.
> 
> 
> Cleaned it with some isopropol alcohol. Didn't do a good job catching the sides. I hope that isn't going to cause an issue or I'm going to have to Q-Tip it with more isopropol alcohol.
> 
> 
> Copper heatsinks on and Gelid kit:
> 
> 
> 
> Time to mount on the NZXT kit... And one of the screws are bad:
> 
> 
> 
> Time to wait and talk to NZXT to try and get a new hardware kit. How frustrating to stop this while so close to finishing.


Some of my screws are like that, it still works just fine. Try it before contacting them.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Hello, all. Long time lurker - first time poster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about to install a shiny new G10 with a Corsair H75 on my Asus DC2 290x. But - I see I have some dremeling to do - I just tried a dry fit, and one of my VRAM copper heat sinks touched the pump - or almost touched - either way I'm going to grind it down a bit:
> 
> (Edit: it seems that the pump will _just_ clear the heat sink, but I'll grind it a bit down anyway, just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> But - my problem concerns the supplied thumb screw nuts - although the G10 is listed as compatible with the R9 290X and Corsair H75, there is a plastic shroud on top of the H75 blocking the supplied nuts:
> (Meh - camera shake!)
> 
> The R9 290X needs to use the A-holes (hurr, hurr) located closest to the pump, and the very tight fit combined with the top shroud on the H75 is a problem.
> 
> So - should I try to find different nuts, should I Dremel the pump shroud, or should I try to remove the shroud (I'm not sure it's detachable)?
> 
> I'd don't mind dremeling the shroud (actually, I'm almost itching to do so, as I got a shiny new Dremel 4000 yesterday) , but that will surely drop the resale value of the H75, and if I'm unlucky I might risk damaging the pump..
> Hmm - I wonder what the threading of the G10 screws are...
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Edit II:
> It seems that it in deed is possible to remove the pump cover: http://www.gr-tek.com.au/support-water-cooling-vs-air-cooling.php
> ..But that it probably would be a very bad idea to run the pump with the cover off.
> Hmm - I guess I could remove the cover, and then trim the cover before reattaching it.


Just remove the copper heatsinks that are interfering with the mount. The VRAM is not nearly as important as the VRMs because the VRAM doesn't get that hot.


----------



## Sapporo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugamat*
> 
> Hi everyone. I`m using kraken g10 for about 4 month on my overclocked R9 290. Using it wis Corsair H55 With push&pull on exaust of my case. I made some acrylyc cover on the top mount and in glows in UV lights. I`m also added one cooler for another VRM. Using Gelid ICY Vision Heatsinks on another VRM and some no-named heatsink on memory. Here some photo of the card, and the temps (Feel sorry for bad quality and bad english.)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice job !!


----------



## Sploosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Some of my screws are like that, it still works just fine. Try it before contacting them.


Some of your screws do not have the proper rectangular shape ground into their threads to fit in the proper slot? The single screw still has the thread intact, and I could not fit it into the bracket properly.

I was also concerned about the excess heat paste that was spilling over the sides of the chip causing an issue. Should I be?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sploosh*
> 
> Some of your screws do not have the proper rectangular shape ground into their threads to fit in the proper slot? The single screw still has the thread intact, and I could not fit it into the bracket properly.
> 
> I was also concerned about the excess heat paste that was spilling over the sides of the chip causing an issue. Should I be?


If you're worried about the excess TIM, use a toothpick and clean it up.

No, all of my screws had the rectangular shape, I thought you were referring to the divot at the tip of the screw.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Just remove the copper heatsinks that are interfering with the mount. The VRAM is not nearly as important as the VRMs because the VRAM doesn't get that hot.


I know - I just wanted some nice to have extra cooling. The VRMs are the priority, and I have something extra for them.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Hold the top and bottom and pull gently, it should come off pretty easily, mine came off by accident at first.


Yup - I tried, and it came off quite easily in deed!


The extruding pieces of plastic seemed to be quite easy to cut off without damaging anything or affecting the rigidness and stability of the pump cover. After a quick check, I determined that I only needed to remove a small part of the plastic, on both sides of the water hoses. (It depends on how you want to orientate the hoses regarding the G10 bracket.)
 

No sooner said than done: with a sharp knife cutting the the soft plastic was like cutting through butter:

..I only cut off the plastic outside the small struts, keeping the struts, and thus the stability of the cover should still be rock solid.

..And after this quick modification the pump will now fit, using the supplied screws and nuts!


This type of mod should work for Corsair H75 and H105 (and perhaps other supported coolers) with protruding pump covers, which is a problem when mounting them on AMD graphics cards. The supplied thumb screw nuts won't fit, so you need to do some modification to fit the cooler - either modify the pump cover or use different, smaller nuts.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> This type of mod should work for Corsair H75 and H105 (and perhaps other supported coolers) with protruding pump covers, which is a problem when mounting them on AMD graphics cards. The supplied thumb screw nuts won't fit, so you need to do some modification to fit the cooler - either modify the pump cover or use different, smaller nuts.


That does look better, however (eventually...







) I will make an acrylic shroud for the GPU as I have a horizontal mobo mount in my system, and it'll (hopefully) make it look more like a stock card (ie just a custom cooler instead of a G10 modded one).

EDIT: Also is that a BeQuiet! fan? if so is it any good and worth the premium?


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> That does look better, however (eventually...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I will make an acrylic shroud for the GPU as I have a horizontal mobo mount in my system, and it'll (hopefully) make it look more like a stock card (ie just a custom cooler instead of a G10 modded one).
> 
> EDIT: Also is that a BeQuiet! fan? if so is it any good and worth the premium?


It not only looks all right - the main difference is that it works at all!









And yes - it's a BeQuiet fan - I haven't made any test or comparisons, but it should in theory work at least as well as the stock fan and make less noise...


----------



## nerdybeat

Has anyone installed this on their GPU (specifically a 980) with a backplate on it - using the stock screws? Or did you need to get longer screws?


----------



## Trondster

The screws should be long enough, as long as the backplate isn't too thick or has too much spacing between the card and the backplate. The supplied back bracket already has a foam/rubber spacer to give some distance between the board and the bracket.


----------



## 031Dutch

@sweenytodd

sorry first if i typ your not name correct.
I see you have an gtx 780ti from asus with an direct cu2 cooler on the first page

When the stock cooler is removed there
is on the side a black metal part but did you also removed this? When mount the g10 bracket?

Do i must remove the backplate to remove this part?

i have an gtx 780 from asus. When i gona buy the g10's i now what 2 do also

If i typed something wrong. I used a tablet with slow response


----------



## et3rn47

Forgive my lack of knowledge in understanding sli, i have a question to reassure myself before i make my purchase.
I have a nzxt h440, and will soon be getting 2x 970s and would like to give them both a g10 (i have a kraken x61 for my CPU already as well.)
If they will fit fine, what would be some recommended orientations for what i will be getting?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> Forgive my lack of knowledge in understanding sli, i have a question to reassure myself before i make my purchase.
> I have a nzxt h440, and will soon be getting 2x 970s and would like to give them both a g10 (i have a kraken x61 for my CPU already as well.)
> If they will fit fine, what would be some recommended orientations for what i will be getting?


Considering youre on Maxwell and should be relatively future proof for at least 3-4 years I would consider going with a better set-up. If you have the budget, might I recommend selling the X61 and picking up either a Coolermaster Glacer 240L or a Swiftech 220 (I believe they are essentially the same product with the Glacer 240L having a stronger pump) another 240 or space permitting, a 360mm radiator and a pair of water-blocks for the 970's.

A water-block is a far superior cooling solution, you will not have to worry about any region of your card seeing high temperatures and you should extend your overclocking potential as with a cooler GPU assembly comes reduced voltage requirement for higher clocks.

The system should not be significantly more expensive than going the G10 route as to do the G10 route properly, by way of multiple copper heat-sinks and additional fans for the AIO's, brings the total cost per card right in line with the cost of a full water-block (around $100.) The only additional expense would be the additional radiator and the necessary tubing and additional fans although you would already be seeing superior performance with the significantly greater radiator surface area vs. AIO's in push-pull.

Both the Glacer 240L and Swiftech 220 are essentially AIO's that can be expanded to include other components and work with water-blocks. In hind-sight, had I known that I was to purchase $100 in copper heat-sinks, I would've gone this route. The allure of the G10's is that BY THEMSELVES they are inexpensive, when you factor in the cost of additional fans and heat-sinks youre sitting right under the cost of a full water-block per GPU.

I also didn't want to invest in a full custom-loop with my 780 Ti's as I may only have them for 3 more years, assuming I can afford 980 Ti SLI / Titan 2 SLI (I actually need the GPU computing power to enjoy recent titles in 3D at 2560x1440).

I also was unaware that there were AIO's in existence that could actually expand to accommodate other components. If you can afford to do so, this is a far superior set-up without the cost and complexity of a full custom-loop.

If I can afford to do so in 3-4 years time, I will be going this route with a pair of 980 Ti or Titan 2.

http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Cooler-Master-Glacer-240L-All-One-Liquid-Cooler-Review

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25887/ex-blc-1910/EK_Geforce_GTX_970_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FC970_GTX_-_AcetalNickel.html


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> Has anyone installed this on their GPU (specifically a 980) with a backplate on it - using the stock screws? Or did you need to get longer screws?


The G10 attaches to the card assembly by way of 4 bolts encircling the GPU core; you simply need to remove the 4 existing bolts and all of the rest of the bolts remain in place. To get it to work with your back-plate, simply peel off the foam that is supplied on the G10' bracket and bolt it directly onto your back-plate.


----------



## et3rn47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Considering youre on Maxwell and should be relatively future proof for at least 3-4 years I would consider going with a better set-up. If you have the budget, might I recommend selling the X61 and picking up either a Coolermaster Glacer 240L or a Swiftech 220 (I believe they are essentially the same product with the Glacer 240L having a stronger pump) another 240 or space permitting, a 360mm radiator and a pair of water-blocks for the 970's.
> 
> A water-block is a far superior cooling solution, you will not have to worry about any region of your card seeing high temperatures and you should extend your overclocking potential as with a cooler GPU assembly comes reduced voltage requirement for higher clocks.
> 
> The system should not be significantly more expensive than going the G10 route as to do the G10 route properly, by way of multiple copper heat-sinks and additional fans for the AIO's, brings the total cost per card right in line with the cost of a full water-block (around $100.) The only additional expense would be the additional radiator and the necessary tubing and additional fans although you would already be seeing superior performance with the significantly greater radiator surface area vs. AIO's in push-pull.
> 
> Both the Glacer 240L and Swiftech 220 are essentially AIO's that can be expanded to include other components and work with water-blocks. In hind-sight, had I known that I was to purchase $100 in copper heat-sinks, I would've gone this route. The allure of the G10's is that BY THEMSELVES they are inexpensive, when you factor in the cost of additional fans and heat-sinks youre sitting right under the cost of a full water-block per GPU.
> 
> I also didn't want to invest in a full custom-loop with my 780 Ti's as I may only have them for 3 more years, assuming I can afford 980 Ti SLI / Titan 2 SLI (I actually need the GPU computing power to enjoy recent titles in 3D at 2560x1440).
> 
> I also was unaware that there were AIO's in existence that could actually expand to accommodate other components. If you can afford to do so, this is a far superior set-up without the cost and complexity of a full custom-loop.
> 
> If I can afford to do so in 3-4 years time, I will be going this route with a pair of 980 Ti or Titan 2.
> 
> http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Cooler-Master-Glacer-240L-All-One-Liquid-Cooler-Review
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25887/ex-blc-1910/EK_Geforce_GTX_970_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FC970_GTX_-_AcetalNickel.html


Thanks for all that useful info! The problem i have now is that i dont have any experience with tubing and watercooling in general, that is why i was going the all-in-one route.
i dont know the difficulty of hooking this all up, or what exactly you mean by the block listed.


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> The G10 attaches to the card assembly by way of 4 bolts encircling the GPU core; you simply need to remove the 4 existing bolts and all of the rest of the bolts remain in place. To get it to work with your back-plate, simply peel off the foam that is supplied on the G10' bracket and bolt it directly onto your back-plate.


Thanks a bunch!! +rep

I have a similar setup now with a custom bracket that was made by a forum member a couple years back before the NZXT/Corsair options - thanks for the clarification on the G10.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> @sweenytodd
> 
> sorry first if i typ your not name correct.
> I see you have an gtx 780ti from asus with an direct cu2 cooler on the first page
> 
> When the stock cooler is removed there
> is on the side a black metal part but did you also removed this? When mount the g10 bracket?
> 
> Do i must remove the backplate to remove this part?
> 
> i have an gtx 780 from asus. When i gona buy the g10's i now what 2 do also


You can keep both the backplate and the black side bracket. You just mount the supplied back bracket on top of the existing back plate - in this way you can use the supplied screws.
My DC2 290X has recesses in the backplate for the stock screws - I mounted the supplied G10 screws and nuts to the G10 back bracket, and the G10 nuts fit nicely in the recesses in the backplate.
You can remove the foam from the back bracket as described above, or you can flip the back bracket (which is what I did) and leave the foam in place.

I'll post pictures in a couple of days, when my conversion is complete - I'm waiting for the last extra parts.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> Thanks for all that useful info! The problem i have now is that i dont have any experience with tubing and watercooling in general, that is why i was going the all-in-one route.
> i dont know the difficulty of hooking this all up, or what exactly you mean by the block listed.


It's fairly straightforward, the hardest part I imagine is adding the coolant here:

http://www.legitreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/cooler_master_glacer_240l_22.jpg

You simply mount that in your ceiling, and then another 240 or ideally a 360mm radiator in the front of your case (at least that's where the 360mm rad would go in my Air 540), and then connect the in-flow and out-flow hoses to that radiator and then on to the coolant connector bridge of your GPU's and then back through your CPU and then on up to the radiator in the ceiling. Its all very very simple, you literally have to be completely brain-dead to be incapable of putting it together. Then I suppose you circulate the coolant in BIOS, where there is next to no load on the GPU's. That's it!

Seriously, the additional work over installing G10's is adding coolant to either the Glacer 240L or Swiftech H220 and connecting all of the coolant tubing. It really is self-explanatory.

If you can add a G10 to your GPU and route the AIO to a spot in your PC chassis rest assured you can go one better and install full-water blocks and a loop.

I am seriously kicking myself in the ass for having spent $350 on the G10's, the AIO's and the copper when I could have water-blocks for about the same amount. I am absolutely not kidding. If youre not $350 into the Kraken G10 route, go with either a Glacer 240L or Swiftech H220 and water-blocks and don't look back. Did I mention more than double the radiator surface area and that the Glacer 240L's rad is comprised of copper? The EK rads I mention below are ALSO comprised of copper, unlike the aluminum the Corsair AIO's are comprised of. This translates into about a 5C difference between the Glacer 240L, Swiftech H220 and other aluminum radiators of comparable size, i.e. H100i, H105 etc.

240mmx29mm + 360x29-38mm = 600x29mm, potentially greater surface area if you can squeeze in a 360x38mm radiator like that offered by EK, or even 64mm thick:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/radiators/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/radiators/ek-coolstream-rad-xtx-360.html

vs.

3 x 120x27mm = 360x27mm

This is a no brainer.

Anyone reading this contemplating the G10's I implore you to consider the Semi Custom Loop AIO route above.

Did I mention that I am really kicking myself in the ass for not having gone the Semi Custom Loop AIO route?

FULL WATER BLOCKS WITHOUT THE COST AND COMPLEXITY OF A CUSTOM LOOP. YOU CAN EVEN RUN AN EXTERNAL RADIATOR IF YOU NEED MORE RAD SURFACE AREA.

Be intelligent.


----------



## Someone09

How come the G10 route was/is so expensive for you?

If I were to go this route, the costs for me (for two 780 Tis) would be:
2x G10 = 60€
2x H75 = 140€

= a little over 200€

I have enough fans laying around but even if I wouldn´t and would need to replace the stock fans, that would make another 20€.
Also, if I were to add VRM heatsinks that would make another 10-15€.

If I were to compare this to a full custom loop based off of the H220x or H240x (which I did A LOT lately) it would be:
H240x + pump adapter: 180€
2x EK Full Cover: 180€
Fittings, tubes, fluid etc: 30€

= around 400€

Which is without an additional rad.
Almost twice as much!

Also, the other three benefits of the G10:
You can install it in - let´s say - 30mins per GPU vs 2 hours + 24hrs leak testing on a full loop.
It´s an universal kit which means you can (probably) use it for every new GPU. Not so much with the EK blocks.
It´s much easier to switch out. Same for a single GPU.

Not trying to attack you or anything. But I´ve spend way too much time lately thinking about the whole "G10 vs HG10 vs H240x based GPU only loop vs full custom loop" topic.

Slightly off-topic:
If I were to go the H240x based loop route, I might as well just get one of those Aquacomputer AMS systems.
But then again, for that price I could get a new MoBo with a PLX chip and just add a 3rd GPU which tops the performance gains I would get by putting two GPUs under water and overclocking them to their limits.


----------



## Ultisym

The fact is it wont be the cheapest option for everybody. Here in the U.S. there are some really good deals that pop up and a lot of people have gotten into a G-10/Corsair H-55 setup for around $60 per GPU. I am into mine about $100 per GPU with the H-90s. You hit most of the benefits of the AIO's vs full loop in your post. I would add:

+You can move it to other GPUs (or CPUs) with ease. You dont have to buy a new water block every time you upgrade to a new gpu (Same brand and family at least). My parts swapped right over from the 770s to the 970s.

+A plus of the closed loop aspect for me (Yes I have had loops before) is that you do not have to maintain it.

-These units will begin to lose their effectiveness in 4 or 5 years. Evaporation is an issue and their life is finite.

+Having a warranty is not a bad thing either. Not just for the part but for other components if it leaks. Corsair, at least, has a pretty good reputation of replacing components damaged by a leak from one of their AIOs. I am not sure about other brands, but this makes a lot of people more willing to try it I guess.

-They can be a pain fitting everything into the case, especially if you run more than one GPU and have one on the CPU as well. It can clutter the case. Even though airflow in the case isnt as important if the gpus and cpu are under AIOs, this really bothers some people. Thats not to say that all installations look bad or anything like that, some are done quite nicely. But they eat real estate in your case real quick by the time you run the lines and find a spot to mount the radiators.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> +You can move it to other GPUs (or CPUs) with ease. You dont have to buy a new water block every time you upgrade to a new gpu (Same brand and family at least). My parts swapped right over from the 770s to the 970s.


Nope, didn´t forget that one.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> +A plus of the closed loop aspect for me (Yes I have had loops before) is that you do not have to maintain it.
> 
> -These units will begin to lose their effectiveness in 4 or 5 years. Evaporation is an issue and their life is finite.


True. Also, when generally comparing AiOs vs custom loops, those two points should be mentioned in the same sentence.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> +Having a warranty is not a bad thing either. Not just for the part but for other components if it leaks. Corsair, at least, has a pretty good reputation of replacing components damaged by a leak from one of their AIOs. I am not sure about other brands, but this makes a lot of people more willing to try it I guess.


Also true. I have heard a few reports about how Corsair honors their warranty in case of a leak.
BUT honestly I am not sure I would 100% count on it if using it with a G10. They could argue it´s not the intended usage after all.
I know, I know...one could counter-argue it was installed on a processing unit which is its intended usage.
Just saying, I don´t think there have been any reports on Corsair honoring their warranty when using their AiOs on a GPU. (On the other hand, I don´t think there have been any reports on leaks while using an AiO on a GPU anyway.)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Just saying, I don´t think there have been any reports on Corsair honoring their warranty when using their AiOs on a GPU. (On the other hand, I don´t think there have been any reports on leaks while using an AiO on a GPU anyway.)


No I am not aware of anyone having to fight that fight yet either. But surely they will not consider their AIOs being used in an unintended manner since they just released their vary on competitor to the G-10.


----------



## Someone09

Exactly. They released their own version with which the warranty should be valid.
But with a product from an competitor? Who knows.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Exactly. They released their own version with which the warranty should be valid.
> But with a product from an competitor? Who knows.


Your right, like everything else, until its in your hand, you never know. But Corsair has done very well backing up the warranty on their AIOs for cpus, hopefully they will want that Karma to follow them wherever they go.


----------



## et3rn47

It does seem more cost efficient to get g10s and coolers instead of blocking because i can just roll over the g10s instead of hoping to sell, or take a big hit of selling blocks.
Plus factoring time to do it, and here in the us it seems a bit cheaper than blocks and coolers too.
my only question now is how difficult is it to have 2 g10s on 970s in sli, in say a (my case) H440


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> It does seem more cost efficient to get g10s and coolers instead of blocking because i can just roll over the g10s instead of hoping to sell, or take a big hit of selling blocks.
> Plus factoring time to do it, and here in the us it seems a bit cheaper than blocks and coolers too.
> my only question now is how difficult is it to have 2 g10s on 970s in sli, in say a (my case) H440


Plus you can't do this with a block...

My 290X with the Tri X fans and bracket attached to a G10 GPU cooler.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> How come the G10 route was/is so expensive for you?
> 
> If I were to go this route, the costs for me (for two 780 Tis) would be:
> 2x G10 = 60€
> 2x H75 = 140€
> 
> = a little over 200€
> 
> I have enough fans laying around but even if I wouldn´t and would need to replace the stock fans, that would make another 20€.
> Also, if I were to add VRM heatsinks that would make another 10-15€.
> 
> If I were to compare this to a full custom loop based off of the H220x or H240x (which I did A LOT lately) it would be:
> H240x + pump adapter: 180€
> 2x EK Full Cover: 180€
> Fittings, tubes, fluid etc: 30€
> 
> = around 400€
> 
> Which is without an additional rad.
> Almost twice as much!
> 
> Also, the other three benefits of the G10:
> You can install it in - let´s say - 30mins per GPU vs 2 hours + 24hrs leak testing on a full loop.
> It´s an universal kit which means you can (probably) use it for every new GPU. Not so much with the EK blocks.
> It´s much easier to switch out. Same for a single GPU.
> 
> Not trying to attack you or anything. But I´ve spend way too much time lately thinking about the whole "G10 vs HG10 vs H240x based GPU only loop vs full custom loop" topic.
> 
> Slightly off-topic:
> If I were to go the H240x based loop route, I might as well just get one of those Aquacomputer AMS systems.
> But then again, for that price I could get a new MoBo with a PLX chip and just add a 3rd GPU which tops the performance gains I would get by putting two GPUs under water and overclocking them to their limits.


Good points Someone, let's see if I can completely finalize the cost of my system here:

2 x Kraken G10: $60

2 x Corsair H55: $100 (on sale, Newegg)

1 x Corsair H60: $60 (for CPU)

3 packs Enzotech BMR C1 9mm tall copper heat-sinks: $51

4 packs Enzotech BCC9: $68

1 x Gelid Extreme: $13

3 x Silverstone 3-1 PWM splitter: $12

Double sided tape (for heat-sinks) and the 20x20x1mm copper shim (retained ACX VRM cooling mid-plate): $10

3 x Corsair SP120 LED: $33

1 x Bitfenix Spectre Pro 230mm fan: $23

Custom work done at local plastics fabrication shop to side panel to accommodate said fan: $60

(The Corsair Air 540 does not come with a side-panel that will fit a 200-230mm fan as other cases do, usually right over the GPU area. Addressing the airflow directly over the GPU's is now a pre-requisite to adequately evacuate the heat the heat-sinks will be absorbing and feed the 92mm fans and AIO's)

Grand Total: ~$500.

Sure, you could do with less heat-sinks, no large, high CFM side-panel fan, and simply use the included AIO fans in push or pull and use the included thermal compound or maybe you already had a side-panel fan and 120mm fan's for push-pull and extra thermal compound lying around and like to live dangerously in regards to inadequate VRM cooling.

I suppose of the above the thermal compound, the 3x 120mm SP120 LED's, and maybe the 230mm side-panel fan and custom work could be included in the cost layout for the water-blocks although I might have gotten away without the 230mm fan as the water-blocks would have been sufficient in and of themselves whereas getting air over the G10's is critically important.

I am fairly confident I could have done the Semi Custom Loop route for around the same amount. I would be deducting about $120 for the copper, another $100 for the side-panel fan and custom work, and the cost of the CPU AIO, the H60 could simply go towards the purchase of a 360mm radiator.

So personally speaking, I am kicking myself in the ass.

There are already a few stories to be found here and on the rest of the net of people installing the G10's without VRM cooling mid-plates and additional heat-sinks winding up with dead cards in short order. Its better to err on the side of caution, if youre going to gamble with this cooling solution and are sitting with $1500 in VGA componentry a little prudence is in order. That said, I probably could have gotten away with $35 less copper (2x Enzotech 14mm tall copper heat-sinks instead of 4) but the side-panel fan is an absolute must.

I am enjoying the performance of the G10's as configured, I am seeing typical peak running temps of 50-53 C, both primary and secondary, with the clocks at 1110MHz core (1241 boost) and 2000MHz memory on the default EVGA SC ACX vbios. I am actually 1254 core (boost) and 2k memory stable in 3DMark 11, Firestrike and Heaven but got a black-screen when pushing for 1267 core (boost) in Firestrike and have been mostly stable dialing back my everyday OC to 1241 core (so far, hours of load at 99% primary and secondary, playing Metro 2033 Redux, all settings maxed except SSAA in 3D Vision at 2560x1440). This IS amazing performance as I would be flirting with 85-90C primary and secondary with that memory overclock at a near constant 99% core load (typical average over a two hour period is 70-75% core load, this is including the loading screens etc.) but I am still concerned as to what kind of VRM temps I am seeing. If I take the improvement seen by two other cards with VRM cooling mid-plates, the MSI Lightning and the Asus DCU2, I can surmise that I am about 15-20C cooler than before, but this is an assumption and hence my remorse at not simply going the water-block route.

In hindsight, the G10 route was an attractive solution as the initial cost outlay is very attractive in comparison to a semi-loop with water-blocks. All of the additional expenditures are incremental, a few copper heat-sinks here and there but in the end the set-up is every bit as expensive with a big question mark regarding full VGA assembly cooling performance. At this point I am too far invested in the system to switch, and am now completely broke to top it off. I will run it like this for the coming 3 years or so, until I feel I got my money's worth out of the 780 Ti's and until they are truly obsolete at which point I will likely upgrade to 980 Ti SLI, reference cards this time as they will be getting full-water blocks in conjunction with either a Glacer 240L or Swiftech H220 or maybe a new and improved product at that point in time.

I am simply keeping my fingers crossed that the VRM's are adequately cooled, and I have a feeling that they are.

Well I should be getting a call from the local plastics shop any day now to go pick up my side-panel, I can't wait to do another build-log video with it, its going to be very trick.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> There are already a few stories to be found here and on the rest of the net of people installing the G10's without VRM cooling mid-plates and additional heat-sinks winding up with dead cards in short order.


Really? Care to share some links?

So far, I have only see one or two reports of cards dying with the G10 installed and one of those two (an R9 290x if I remember correctly) had some VRM related problems before.

Overall it seems that even without installing additional heatsinks to the VRMs they seem to be getting around 10-15°C hotter than with the original cooler (depending on if it was a reference design cooler or not etc).


----------



## vulcan78

Duplicate post.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Cost for single G10 Bracket = $10-$30

Cost for single H55 = $40-$50

Cost for 20pcs. Aluminum Heatsinks = $6*

Cost for Double Sided Sekisui Thermal Tape = $2.75*

Cost for Copper Shim = $3*

Cost for VGA to PWM Fan Adapter = $5*

Cost for 120mm Fan: Cooler Master Blade Master 3.9mm/H20 = $8-$12*

Cost for Performance Thermal Paste: $6-$14*

*: Optional Parts

The real cost to do this is between $50-$80 without any optional extras, and depending on the sales at the time of purchase in the U.S. of A.

Heatsinks are entirely optional, there are many examples of people and reviewers using their cards without additional heatsinks getting lower temperatures on VRMs with the G10's 92mm fan than with their card's stock heatsink.

Adding a second fan is entirely optional, and you don't have to spend $15+ per fan, or add 200mm fans or do custom case mods.

Modding your case for your is entirely optional and on you. It is not a prerequisite and really not necessary at all. In those videos you post, you try to rationalize your purchases in round-about ways and it is laughable. You went WAY overboard on your modding and it is no where near what anyone else in this community has done, and you have ended up spending a lot more than is necessary. If that is what peace of mind costs you, then that's on you, but don't spout BS that all of those mods are mandatory and without them you aren't safe.

If I were you I would be kicking myself because you went so over the top with all of your modding that you ended up spending so much money. When in reality, you can easily get a single CPU + GPU cooled for Under $200 USD, and adding a 2nd GPU with G10 bracket would only cost you an additional $50-$80. That is with all of those extras I pointed out.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Cost for single G10 Bracket = $10-$30
> 
> Cost for single H55 = $40-$50
> 
> Cost for 20pcs. Aluminum Heatsinks = $6*
> 
> Cost for Double Sided Sekisui Thermal Tape = $2.75*
> 
> Cost for Copper Shim = $3*
> 
> Cost for VGA to PWM Fan Adapter = $5*
> 
> Cost for 120mm Fan: Cooler Master Blade Master 3.9mm/H20 = $8-$12*
> 
> Cost for Performance Thermal Paste: $6-$14*
> 
> *: Optional Parts
> 
> The real cost to do this is between $50-$80 without any optional extras, and depending on the sales at the time of purchase in the U.S. of A.
> 
> Heatsinks are entirely optional, there are many examples of people and reviewers using their cards without additional heatsinks getting lower temperatures on VRMs with the G10's 92mm fan than with their card's stock heatsink.
> 
> Adding a second fan is entirely optional, and you don't have to spend $15+ per fan, or add 200mm fans or do custom case mods.
> 
> Modding your case for your is entirely optional and on you. It is not a prerequisite and really not necessary at all. In those videos you post, you try to rationalize your purchases in round-about ways and it is laughable. You went WAY overboard on your modding and it is no where near what anyone else in this community has done, and you have ended up spending a lot more than is necessary. If that is what peace of mind costs you, then that's on you, but don't spout BS that all of those mods are mandatory and without them you aren't safe.
> 
> If I were you I would be kicking myself because you went so over the top with all of your modding that you ended up spending so much money. When in reality, you can easily get a single CPU + GPU cooled for Under $200 USD, and adding a 2nd GPU with G10 bracket would only cost you an additional $50-$80. That is with all of those extras I pointed out.


I spent about $150 too much, I could have gotten by without the 230mm side-panel fan and custom work: $90 and half the copper heat-sinks, about $60 worth. As far as getting the G10 bracket for $10, I wanted white not black and is that $10 including the shipping? You can pick up aluminum heat-sinks for $6 (per card?), but they have half the cooling capacity of copper, hey its your $700 GPU we're talking about, if you want to save $25 here with questionable cooling performance its your hardware! Actually I initially ordered the aluminum heat-sinks that "Faceman" recommends in his mini-guide, and after waiting an entire week for my order to ship from Amazon and multiple inquiries I cancelled the order and paid up for the Enzotech's, which arrived two days later via Newegg. Apparently all of the aluminum heat-sinks are not only made but also inventoried in China! Get prepared to wait 2-3 weeks for your heat-sinks! Hope that $25 savings was worth it while all of your other parts are sitting around, ready to go, with inferior cooling performance in the end to top it off!

$40 for an H55? Including shipping? Link please.

The actual cost when the dust settles, even with the cheap aluminum heat-sinks is much closer to $80 than $50, which is approaching the cost of a water-block.

"Spouting rubbish." The risk of prematurely frying your GK110 without any VRM cooling precautions is absolutely real. But hey, when I was 19 I also thought I and everything I owned was invincible! Some things you learn with time.

"Way overboard". Can't wait till all the kids who think its safe to run overclocked GK110 with this kit with nothing on the VRM's coming in here en masse whining about their fried GPU's. I will send them all your way.

http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/NZXT-Kraken-G10-Review-527/

As far as this article being debunked, what is the difference between 99% load your GPU's see in Furmark and 99% load on your GPU's see say in Tomb Raider 2013 or Metro 2033 Redux? Nothing. 99% load is 99% load. People are aghast at Furmark because typically, your GPU's don't see that kind of constant load. 3D Vision at 2560x1440? Yeah that's going to induce a Furmark like load. I haven't used an IR thermometer but I can tell you that both the back-plates and VRM cooling mid-plates were hot to the touch, and I mean you can't hold your finger on the surface, it feels like a frying pan hot, with the Skyn3t vbios. That prompted me to invest in more passive cooling by way of copper heat-sinks. Things have cooled down now with the heat-sinks and the fact that I've returned to the default vbios (it's actually holding a higher core clock with the default vbios, 1241MHz vs. 1189, and I believe this has to do with the incredible heat the card was coping with with the Skyn3t vbios, reducing the OC ceiling). I am fairly certain that if I had a reference 780 Ti or Titan with no VRM cooling mid-plate and overclocked it with a Skyn3t vbios, thinking I was safe with only the G10, that I might have prematurely fried it. The cards were getting VERY hot. That vbios probably increased the wattage coming into the Mosfet VRM area upwards of 100W, I'm absolutely not exaggerating:



http://www.overclockers.com/evga-gtx780ti-classified-graphics-card-review

The aforementioned Puget Systems Review, with the red-hot VRM IR images with the Titan on a G10 is USING THE DEFAULT VBIOS, VOLTAGE AND FREQUENCY.

(Unlike a reference Titan, my GK110 is sitting around 400MHz higher on the core: 1254MHz boost vs. 867MHz, there IS a DIRECT correlation between operating frequency, power consumption, and temperature).

http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan/specifications

YOUR'E GOING TO COOK YOUR CARD WITH A MODIFIED VBIOS, MORE VOLTAGE AND NOTHING ON THE VRM. Guaranteed.

You might not cook your card in a week or even a month, but I guarantee youre significantly reducing the life expectancy of the card, think something along the lines of cooking your card in 6 months to a years time, less if the hardware in question spends 4-6 hours day in day out at this kind of load and temperature, not the typical 1-2 hours a day on average (been there done that and got the t-shirt, cooked a pair of overclocked 680M's in under two years whereas they should have lasted at least 5). But you saved $25 on the aluminum heat-sinks! You get to go to Jack-In-The-Box now!

Thanks for the restrained feed-back, this is my last post here.

Stupid is as stupid does.


----------



## et3rn47

I don't think you should get the last word and bounce as some of us here are genuinely trying to learn a bit.

Now, that out of the way, I can understand how the load causes that much heat, and the 780ti pushing that much energy, but what about somebody like myself who plans to have just a mild overclock with SLI gtx 970's. They (from what I've read) are cool and light on the load/ heat department.

I mostly game, my plan is to have a tri-monitor set-up, sli some 970's and have each of them have their own cooling. While I am a fan of the block idea, I think for my situation it would make more sense to go the G10 route as it would be easier, a bit cheaper and suffice for what I will be doing (I think)

Now that is why I'm here, 1 to find out if 2x G10's and individual closed loop coolers will work for my needs, and 2 if there would be any issue with 2x G10's that close to each other (and how best to arrange the G10's and their fans) in a SLI arrangement.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Vulcan

There was a sale on Tigerdirect last month where the black G10 was $10 shipped. No MIR, just a coupon code and free shipping. This deal has expired, but it was available for 5 days. It was even posted on this forum a number of times. Same goes for the $40 H55 on Newegg.com. This one did require a $10 MIR, and shipping was only $3.99. Realistically, yes you are going to end up paying closer to $80, but it was available for $50 for a brief window which is why I said "depending on the sales at the time of purchase in the U.S. of A." A waterblock costs between $90 and $120. But that isn't all you need. You also need fittings, a pump, a reservoir, coolant and radiator space. You are going to end up spending a heck of a lot more. To only measure it compared to a waterblock is not painting the full picture, and you're still falling way short.

By the way, I am Faceman on LTT and I absolutely love how because you've done the G10 modification and had it for all of one month you act like the unquestioned expert. There are many people in this forum who have owned this card longer than me who aren't using heat sinks and have had their cards with G10 for over a year. If there was a problem with the VRM cooling, there would be a lot more evidence to show for it. There is none. If you are having problems you are either A. Running a dangerous program like Furmark(not the same as 3DMark) which does cause a hell of a lot more heat on the components than any game or B. Running Skyn3t BIOS which I personally wouldn't recommend to anyone unless you have a true water cooling loop. Voiding your warranty and jamming your card full of volts and heat for an additional 10% performance over max OC on stock BIOS is insane and the reward in no way justifies the risk.

Just because you run Skyn3t BIOS doesn't mean the rest of us do, and to assume so is negligent. Of course if someone is running a modded BIOS with a G10 they should look to add extra VRM cooling, but spending as much as you did on heatsinks is not necessary. There are much less expensive options that work just as well. I personally use Cosmos 20pcs Aluminum Heatsinks($6) which is what I have linked in my guide which you quoted. If really want copper, you can get an 8 pack Cosmos Copper Heatsinks for $7.75 which is what a lot of people on this forum use without any isses. Sorry you overpaid so much for your non-chinese heatsinks that you measure "by touch". I use an NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller with a built in temperature probe, and I have never seen my VRM temperature exceed 54C and that was during a lengthy BF4 session. When I ordered the aluminum heatsinks it only took 2 days, both times because I ordered it and shipped it to someone in Belgium after ordering it for myself.

I find nothing about my cooling performance questionable. *As soon as my card breaks and dies, I will issue a "mea culpa", but until that happens, you cannot assume things, especially when there have been so many before me, and using less than me to cool their cards*. If there was a big problem with the G10s, there would be uproar and evidence, especially on this thread. There is absolutely, a difference between 99% load when gaming and when running a synthetic. To claim otherwise is ignorance. Those graphs you show are of a 780Ti Classified, that card is a lot, a lot more powerful than a 780 SC. Not only does it come with a higher TDP range, but it has a much higher overclock/power limit range. Those graphs are measuring the entire system's power draw and comparing 3Dmark to Unigine Heaven which is not the same as Furmark. Both Furmark and Unigine Heaven push your GPU to 99% load, but which one causes more heat and the potential to brick your card? We all know the answer.

Thank god this is your last post here because you are the most pretentious, know-it-all, newbie G10 owner I have ever come across. The only one you have to blame is yourself.


----------



## et3rn47

<--- still looking for suggestions/ answers lol


----------



## Aznlotus161

^Can confirm that the G10 in black was on sale for a mere $10.

However, to be a bit nit-picky I think it was a MIR.

That was the only thing stopping me from paying 2 for my Gigabyte 970s IIRC.

Anyways, glad we can move on.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> <--- still looking for suggestions/ answers lol


What 970s, model?

I would look at other owners' set-up.

There are quite a few SLI builds that I've seen already work perfectly fine with the G10s.

Just be careful of clearance issues and know how much PCIe slot clearance you have in between too.

Not mine, but a decent reference to how snug it can be:


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

My mistake, the G10 was on sale for $10, but it was $10 instant discount, and $10 MIR.

The H55 was available for $40 after $10 MIR

@et3rn47

What case are you using? What specific model of 970 are you using?

There are a lot of different SLI configurations using G10s. Some of them very simple without modification, others require bending the G10 bracket, specifically the downward facing lip, a little bit. It all depends on your case.

As for the model of 970, some of them have the VRMs on the opposite side of the card, so you will need to find some way to get a fan over them.

Whatever you do with your SLI setup, just make sure that you have your fans set to exhaust.


----------



## vulcan78

Following up with what I previously posted, reading the comments below the Puget Systems G10 article one finds this by the article's author, italics mine:

"We actually tested a couple of different configurations before we decided to use this fan setup. Double check the "Test Setup" section, I think you might have missed the little bit of text where we said that we have both a top fan (which vents the heat) as well as a side fan blowing directly onto the card. This setup ended up raising the GPU core temperature a couple of degrees, but we found that it also great reduced the VRM temperatures. _Removing the side fan (which makes the overall intake/exhaust levels more equal) did result in lower core temperatures, but the VRM was about 8-9 C hotter._ We didn't try with the front radiator fan as an exhaust, but we've done plenty of testing with closed loop CPU coolers, and having them set as an intake drops the temperature of whatever they are cooling by a good 5-7 C in most cases."

http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/NZXT-Kraken-G10-Review-527/

And that's the rationale for the 230mm side-fan in the custom Air 540 side-panel that will sit directly over the GPU's. 8-9 C less on the VRM's, and feeding ample air to all the AIO's is absolutely worth it. I actually intuited the findings of Puget Systems far before reading this bit of information.

But hey, why invest in a side-fan when it will prevent you from going to Jack-In-The-Box 4 or 5 times?! Cool VRM's, who needs that?! I wan't my hamburger!


----------



## et3rn47

Omg, does anybody have a shovel for all this sand ....

Anyway, i have the white NZXT H440, and i dont have a 970 yet, i wanted to get opinions and suggestions beforhand. The motherboard ill be getting (when its finally released) will be that sick white TUF sabertooth mark S thats in the works.

Obvioisly i have a black and white theme im following


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> Omg, does anybody have a shovel for all this sand ....
> 
> Anyway, i have the white NZXT H440, and i dont have a 970 yet, i wanted to get opinions and suggestions beforhand. The motherboard ill be getting (when its finally released) will be that sick white TUF sabertooth mark S thats in the works.
> 
> Obvioisly i have a black and white theme im following


Just my honest opinion.

Aesthetics aside, it only offers a bit more than what a typical Z97 board comes included with.

So I could argue it's a bit overpriced since you're expecting to shell out $250 - 300 (another GTX 970







).

But I have a thing for white/black so I understand where you're coming from.


----------



## et3rn47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Just my honest opinion.
> 
> Aesthetics aside, it only offers a bit more than what a typical Z97 board comes included with.
> 
> So I could argue it's a bit overpriced since you're expecting to shell out $250 - 300 (another GTX 970
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> But I have a thing for white/black so I understand where you're coming from.


I KNOW! Its a sad day when to get a board (without self modding it) you want, you have to throw that kind of money at it. I like the armor feel, and the white scheme, i just hate the cost


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Vulcan

"But hey, why invest in a side-fan when it will prevent you from going to Jack-In-The-Box 4 or 5 times?! Cool VRM's, who needs that?! I wan't my hamburger!"

You say things like you think 54C VRM temperatures are bad. By the way, my card is extremely hot to the touch, 54C is freaking hot, no way I am keeping my finger on that. Going by touch is not a good method to measure your VRM temperatures. Buy a temperature prob or fan controller before you start assuming that everything you have done for your case is mandatory for everyone else, and even necessary for yourself. Your VRM temperatures could have been in the 50s or 60s, which is very good, and you never would have known, and instead you just kept throwing more money at a non-existent problem.

You need to keep in mind that every chassis is different, and everyone's airflow is unique. No two "cases" will ever be the same. Also, you are using the Skyn3t BIOS which pushes a lot more heat into your components than stock BIOS. Of course if you are using unsafe amounts of voltage, you should add extras, that is just common sense, as is, colder is always better. But after a certain point, it just doesn't matter because the card is not in danger because of its lower VRM temperatures with the G10 than with the stock heatsink. This has been proven over and over again on many different cards in this very thread.

That Pugeut Review is making a massive assumption. Thinking that having the X40's radiator fan as an intake reduces core temperatures by 5-7C is just not accurate. Not only does it make VRM temperature A LOT hotter than when you have your radiator set to intake, but it doesn't reduce core temperatures by 5-7C. This has been tested by members in this forum who have 290s that can measure their VRM temps. Having their radiators set to intake was causing increased VRM temperatures, when they set the radiator to exhaust, it dropped VRM temperatures by as much as 11C, and core temperature remained within 1-2C.

I personally have a similar story with my CPU's AIO. The Seidon 240M, a 240mm radiator. I wanted to try and see if switching my radiator from top exhaust to top intake would reduce temperatures. It did, but only by 2C, not by 5-7C. The heat being exchanged in a 240mm radiator compared to 120/140 is not going to push out as much hot heat because of the greater surface area.

One thing I wasn't aware of, but now am thanks to you, is that in the Puguet review their X40 is pointed as an intake directly onto the GPU! No wonder their VRM temperatures are so high. Its not just that they're using a dangerous program in Furmark/Kombustor, but their radiator is blasting hot air onto the card's VRMs further increasing their temperature.

I want to be clear that I am not dissuading anyone from buying additional heat sinks and extras, but I am saying that they are not always necessary, even for someone maxing out their card on stock BIOS up to 1.212v. If you want to add extras, go for it. I did it. You don't have to spend $150 or even close to that in heat sinks, fans, and custom mods to get it done though. Yea, copper is better than aluminum, but aluminum still works pretty damn well. It dropped VRM temperatures by an additional ~10C over no heat sinks. If you want to get -15C, then get copper. But it is not necessary. $10 is all it takes to cover your card in aluminum heatsinks using premium thermal tape.

I did a little bit of testing myself. I do have a spare 200mm fan laying around, so I decided to ghetto mount it on the side of my card and measure temperature difference. I ran Unigine Heaven for 15min to get the heat going and then took a picture so you can see the VRM temperature and how much time has elapsed. My EVGA 780SC does +100Mhz Core and +250Mhz Memory on stock voltage, so that is what I keep it at. Not worth it to me personally to increase voltage, heat, and risk for another 7% performance when I'm already getting 9% performance gains over factory settings on stock voltage.

Here is my NZXT Sentry 3 Temperature Probe, sandwiched directly on the VRMs.


Here is the layout of the Aluminum Heatsinks on my EVGA GTX 780 SC. $6-shipped for 20 tiny aluminum heat sinks. $2.75-shipped for premium Sekisui Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape. This is not necessary, but it was inexpensive so I bought it.


Here is the result. 48.3C. It was bouncing around between 47.8C and 48.3C since the 12 minute mark so this is the plateau.


Here is a picture of the 200mm fan that I ghetto rigged to be pointed directly at the card.


Here is the result. 43.3C. A noticeable improvement of 5C. It took longer for the temperature to climb and plateaued at the 14 minute mark.


Adding an extra fan definitely helps, but is it worth it when you're already getting such good temperatures? No. If you were in the 90s, or 100s, then yea, you need to take appropriate action to get those VRM temperatures down. 80C is what the majority of users who switch from stock cooler to G10 with out extra heat sinks are experiencing, which is a major drop off from the 100C they were getting prior. These components can take more of a beating than we give them credit for. Lower is better, but if you're already in the safe zone, then its just peace of mind or modified BIOS overclocking headroom-_not mandatory_. I do encourage everyone I talk to, to buy the $6 aluminum heat sinks, but it is not a requirement.


----------



## Aznlotus161

PinkoTheCommi, don't feed into what Vulcan wants outta ya.

Don't waste too much energy on trying to make him see it.










P.S. Lovely build, got an album I can dig through?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> Omg, does anybody have a shovel for all this sand ....
> 
> Anyway, i have the white NZXT H440, and i dont have a 970 yet, i wanted to get opinions and suggestions beforhand. The motherboard ill be getting (when its finally released) will be that sick white TUF sabertooth mark S thats in the works.
> 
> Obvioisly i have a black and white theme im following


I do love Asus because of their included software and Fan Xpert, but that motherboard is ridiculously overpriced. Maybe you could settle for an MSI Z97 Krait Edition($125) or Asus Z97-AR($150)?

Anyways, my advice for positioning radiators and fans in an H440 are one of two ways. Either you do one radiator/fan as rear exhaust and one radiator/fan as front exhaust, or you do both radiator/fans as front exhaust. I personally think it will look better, and airflow will be better if you have the radiator/fans as front exhaust, and then make every other fan in your build as intake. This will look the most clean, and give you the best positive air pressure.

As far as what 970 to get, I am a loyal EVGA customer because of how they have treated me. MIRs, RMAs, Questions, you name it, the customer service has been the most consistent, and the best out of any company. They also don't void your warranty if you water cool your cards, which is very important to us G10 users. I would have to research the layout of their card, but even if the VRMs are on the opposite side, I have seen others use tiny 60/80mm fans to cool these areas.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> PinkoTheCommi, don't feed into what Vulcan wants outta ya.
> 
> Don't waste too much energy on trying to make him see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Lovely build, got an album I can dig through?


Thank you!

Here's an album you can dig through. Its not nearly as good as I would like it to be, but its something.

http://linustechtips.com/main/gallery/album/1735-g10-modification/


----------



## et3rn47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I do love Asus because of their included software and Fan Xpert, but that motherboard is ridiculously overpriced. Maybe you could settle for an MSI Z97 Krait Edition($125) or Asus Z97-AR($150)?
> 
> Anyways, my advice for positioning radiators and fans in an H440 are one of two ways. Either you do one radiator/fan as rear exhaust and one radiator/fan as front exhaust, or you do both radiator/fans as front exhaust. I personally think it will look better, and airflow will be better if you have the radiator/fans as front exhaust, and then make every other fan in your build as intake. This will look the most clean, and give you the best positive air pressure.
> 
> As far as what 970 to get, I am a loyal EVGA customer because of how they have treated me. MIRs, RMAs, Questions, you name it, the customer service has been the most consistent, and the best out of any company. They also don't void your warranty if you water cool your cards, which is very important to us G10 users. I would have to research the layout of their card, but even if the VRMs are on the opposite side, I have seen others use tiny 60/80mm fans to cool these areas.


Krait is pretty slick,... that might sway me... awesome suggestion.
as far as cards go, when comparing evga, msi and gig ive hearz that the evga 970 was actually the cheaper made of the 3 in dealing with plastic and architecture (components) and that msi is the more aesthetic appeal while sacrificing cooling that gigabyte has (3 fans... herp)
Because of those reasons ive hears to go msi or gig because they have the most headroom to OC
That said, i just want stability and aesthetics (with minor to moderate overclocking


----------



## et3rn47

Double


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> Double


Honestly, they're all going to perform basically the same. It still comes down to silicon lottery no matter what brand you go with. Check to see if MSI and Gigabyte still offer warranties for their cards after water cooling. Aesthetics and cooling shouldn't count for much because you are going to hit them with a G10 bracket anyways. Focus on features and support.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/NZXT-Kraken-G10-Review-527/
> 
> As far as this article being debunked, *what is the difference between 99% load your GPU's see in Furmark and 99% load on your GPU's see say in Tomb Raider 2013 or Metro 2033 Redux? Nothing. 99% load is 99% load. People are aghast at Furmark because typically, your GPU's don't see that kind of constant load. 3D Vision at 2560x1440? Yeah that's going to induce a Furmark like load.* I haven't used an IR thermometer but I can tell you that both the back-plates and VRM cooling mid-plates were hot to the touch, and I mean you can't hold your finger on the surface, it feels like a frying pan hot, with the Skyn3t vbios.


Uhm - wrong. Very wrong. Temperature wise, 100% load isn't necessarily 100% load (or 99% load, for that matter) - it depends on which instructions you run. Furmark runs a combination of calculations and instructions that generate much, much more heat than you will see in any real world game.

Quote from Nvidia tech support:
_Furmark is an application designed to stress the GPU by maximizing power draw well beyond any real world application or game. In some cases, this could lead to slowdown of the graphics card due to hitting over-temperature or over-current protection mechanisms. These protection mechanisms are designed to ensure the safe operation of the graphics card. Using Furmark or other applications to disable these protection mechanisms can result in permanent damage to the graphics card and void the manufacturer's warranty._

It's not a matter of "constant load" - you'll get a "constant load" from just about _any_ game, unless you are severly CPU bound or throttle the frame rate - the card draws as many frames as it can, with a 100% load all the time - if it can. It doesn't matter if it manages 100fps or 2fps - it is at constant load. The problem is _which_ kind of load - and Furmark generates a _type_ of load that you won't see in real world games.

A car analogy: While other games may put the pedal to the metal at a race track and run the engine flat out at hard as it can go, Furmark would be the driver who actively refuses to change gears, keeping out the rpm in the red range - not trying to go fast; instead just revving the engine way beyond it's accepted limits, trying to blow out the engine.


----------



## Sapporo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I do love Asus because of their included software and Fan Xpert....


SpeedFan owns Fan Xpert very hard ! Uninstalled mine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Uhm - wrong. Very wrong. Temperature wise, 100% load isn't necessarily 100% load (or 99% load, for that matter) - it depends on which instructions you run. Furmark runs a combination of calculations and instructions that generate much, much more heat than you will see in any real world game...


This and plus Furmark is a card killer.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sapporo*
> 
> SpeedFan owns Fan Xpert very hard ! Uninstalled mine.


Just did the change a from Fan Xpert to SpeedFan 3 days ago and can confirm this.








(Speedfan just doesn´t recognize my assistant fans.







)


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> @sweenytodd
> 
> sorry first if i typ your not name correct.
> I see you have an gtx 780ti from asus with an direct cu2 cooler on the first page
> 
> When the stock cooler is removed there
> is on the side a black metal part but did you also removed this? When mount the g10 bracket?
> 
> Do i must remove the backplate to remove this part?
> 
> i have an gtx 780 from asus. When i gona buy the g10's i now what 2 do also
> 
> If i typed something wrong. I used a tablet with slow response


You need to remove the side bracket for the G10 shroud to fit. That was my observation. Backplate is good and you can keep it.


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> You need to remove the side bracket for the G10 shroud to fit. That was my observation. Backplate is good and you can keep it.


ok thnx sweenytodd.
how is the side bracket mounted?
is the side on top off the pcb mounted so i must remove the backplate
or is the side bracket under the pcb mounted?


----------



## 031Dutch

hi all

i trying to find some information
about the diffrence between the nzxt x40 and x41

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/82-kraken-x40-cpu-cooler.html

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/145-kraken-x41-liquid-cooler.html

the tube length is the same.

i see an diffrence between the thicker

but how is the performance and cooling between these 2.

were i live the x41 is 10 euro`s cheapers
thats around 12,54 dollar for 1 so i safe the double


----------



## VSG

x41 would be the way to go there.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> hi all
> 
> i trying to find some information
> about the diffrence between the nzxt x40 and x41
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/82-kraken-x40-cpu-cooler.html
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/145-kraken-x41-liquid-cooler.html
> 
> the tube length is the same.
> 
> i see an diffrence between the thicker
> 
> but how is the performance and cooling between these 2.
> 
> were i live the x41 is 10 euro`s cheapers
> thats around 12,54 dollar for 1 so i safe the double


Do not install the side bracket, just keep the backplate.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Howdy folks. Considering picking one of these up and then later a second for CF-X.

My question is what 92mm fans are you guys running on yours? I see scythe makes some Noctua's are just too much dough for my bakery. I'm just not a fan of NZXT's fans (no pun intended)
Does anyone know if these fit on sapphire's R7 265 Dual-X or R9 270 Dual-X or HD 7850 Dual-X? Comparing specs from each manufacturer leads me to believe it will


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> Howdy folks. Considering picking one of these up and then later a second for CF-X.
> 
> My question is what 92mm fans are you guys running on yours? I see scythe makes some Noctua's are just too much dough for my bakery. I'm just not a fan of NZXT's fans (no pun intended)
> Does anyone know if these fit on sapphire's R7 265 Dual-X or R9 270 Dual-X or HD 7850 Dual-X? Comparing specs from each manufacturer leads me to believe it will


I don't think it will fit on a R7 265. It really don't make sense to water cool such low end cards to be honest. Maybe a 7850, but the others.. not at all. The money would be much better spent buying a higher end card.

The NZXT 92mm fan is great. Its quiet even at 100% speed, and its included. If you really want a different 92mm fan, the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm is a good choice.


----------



## Trondster

Finally got my G10 installed on my Asus OC2 R9 290X with a 92mm BeQuiet, plus a Corsair H75 with 2x Akasa Scythe 120mm.








Load temps @1090/1450MHz with Haven at 1920x1200 at max are 62 and 60/50 deg C for GPU and VRM1/VRM2, down from 91 and 96/80 deg C with the stock Asus DC2 cooler.
I installed some extra heat sinks and thermal pads - pictures will follow next week.
http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/details.php?id=hewmv

I could overclock the core a bit more with higher voltage - got to 1215MHz in Haven at 1337mV, but I couldn't get it stable in 3DMark.
I could get the memory up to 1600, but got a lower score in Haven at 1500. But - the card wasn't stable in the desktop when idle at such speeds, so I clocked the memory down to 1450.

1090/1450 are the same speeds I used with the stock cooler, but the card is now more quiet and much cooler. And - it does no longer throttle in long Haven runs.


----------



## Mongoose135

Edit: Was going to post a link to my ebay listing for my AIO-cooled card, but didn't realise it was against the ToS.


----------



## VSG

Sorry mate, that's against the ToS here. You might want to edit the post out before someone reports it or a mod sees it.


----------



## Mongoose135

All right, didn't realise it was against the ToS! Have edited it out.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I don't think it will fit on a R7 265. It really don't make sense to water cool such low end cards to be honest. Maybe a 7850, but the others.. not at all. The money would be much better spent buying a higher end card.
> 
> The NZXT 92mm fan is great. Its quiet even at 100% speed, and its included. If you really want a different 92mm fan, the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm is a good choice.


The R7 265 is a 7850..........

And I already have an AIO on the card its just ziptied. I plan on running crossfire soon so that will give me rouch/estimated performance of a 770 so I think I'm fine on performance.
And it does make sense to watercool them when I get the AIO's for free, not to mention the 325MHz OC I got on the core after adding it. Now I want to OC the RAM which is why I have an interest in the Kraken.

But I guess pushing budget hardware to their limits is beyond you Mr. Enthusiast


----------



## VSG

Small correction: R7 265 is a brand new SKU, not a 7850.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Small correction: R7 265 is a brand new SKU, not a 7850.


http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R7-265-vs-Radeon-HD-7850

Same GPU.
If anything the 265 is a better card due to increased VRAM performance


----------



## VSG

Ah I should have checked, it is the R7 260x that is the new part. My bad, sorry!


----------



## maynard14

guys help, tried to install nzxt g10 and corsair h105 to my ref 290x , its easy to install with gelid extreme vrm heatsink,, but when i tried to but my pc, it gives me error debug code b2

so i google it and it refers to the videocard, so i tried to install my 290x again with the referecne cooler, and to my surprise it booted with no issue









so what could have coz my pc not to boot

any help guys? thanks


----------



## Vendari

Perhaps you shorted out something when attaching the cooler? or you didn't seat the cooler correctly. do you have a shim?


----------



## Mongoose135

Not sure, it could have simply been not plugged into the PCI slot on the motherboard properly, or the power cables could have been slightly loose. Sometimes it can look like it's plugged in properly but is actually slightly loose.

The other possibility is something shorting on the card PCB due to some part of the bracket/heatsinks touching it, although I view that to be unlikely.

If I were you I'd try again and install it more carefully, make sure everything's plugged in firmly and that the cooler is screwed on tightly but not too tight.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mongoose135*
> 
> Not sure, it could have simply been not plugged into the PCI slot on the motherboard properly, or the power cables could have been slightly loose. Sometimes it can look like it's plugged in properly but is actually slightly loose.
> 
> .


Most likely


----------



## maynard14

i dont have a cooper shim but it fits perfectly, i tried 3 times installing and uninstalling the h105 to the card but still stuck at b2, so i just give up

but i think the gelid extreme screw is the problem? i didnt install any plastic washer, coz i left them on my previous 290, when i rma it,

do you thin guys thats the problem?


----------



## maynard14

btw i moded my raven 01, i drilled a hole on my raven, so that i can install my h105 at the back, im not at home so i cant take a picture,

but the image here is the same as my set up

the yellow line is the tubing of the h105

and the red lines are the screws


----------



## maynard14

finally. done fixing my problem. it was the gelid extreme screws.. i think they are ground the card to it doesnt boot and no display. i just put a tiny electric tape on the pcb of the card so that the screw of the gelid extreme heatsink is not making contact direct to the board

thank you guys for your help. still though gpu core is 72c while benching.. still a little bit high but im happy with it

btw heres my set up


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> finally. done fixing my problem. it was the gelid extreme screws.. i think they are ground the card to it doesnt boot and no display. i just put a tiny electric tape on the pcb of the card so that the screw of the gelid extreme heatsink is not making contact direct to the board
> 
> thank you guys for your help. still though gpu core is 72c while benching.. still a little bit high but im happy with it
> 
> btw heres my set up


Glad you solved the problem. What program are you using to bench test?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> The R7 265 is a 7850..........
> 
> And I already have an AIO on the card its just ziptied. I plan on running crossfire soon so that will give me rouch/estimated performance of a 770 so I think I'm fine on performance.
> And it does make sense to watercool them when I get the AIO's for free, not to mention the 325MHz OC I got on the core after adding it. Now I want to OC the RAM which is why I have an interest in the Kraken.
> 
> But I guess pushing budget hardware to their limits is beyond you Mr. Enthusiast


My mistake, I thought a R7 265 was the same as a R7 260.

Already having the AIOs, and getting them for free makes all the difference in the world. Because I didn't know any better, it sounded like you were going to pay ~$100 to do the G10 modification to a $100 GPU. I should have researched the R7 265 better, I honestly thought it was a $100 entry level GPU.


----------



## bernieyee

Fellow Canadians, the H55 is on sale via DirectCanada for $48.99

http://forums.redflagdeals.com/corsair-hydro-seriesa-h55-closed-loop-cpu-cooler-pm-me-46-88-a-1607835/

PM with MemoryExpress to save a few bucks.

Also, I read VRM heatsinks are not required for those mounting the G10 on a 280X since the VRMs are on the right side.

Is this true?


----------



## ZeroAlive

Anyone know if the Kraken G10 will fit on the Gigabyte G1 GTX 970?

I didnt notice anyone on the G10 owners list with it and i know that the card has non refrence PCB...


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Glad you solved the problem. What program are you using to bench test?


hi bro,. i just play, ryse sons of rome, far cry 4, assassins creed unity

here is a screen shot and also my temps after 15 mins of far cry 4



i decided to try and change my thermal paste, so now im using collaboratory pro on the gpu die

and my max temps on gpu core is 55c ! MASSIVE improvements on the Gpu core

really happy now


----------



## bernieyee

Just hooked up my H55 to my G10 on my XFX R9 280x.

How do these temperatures look?

Unigine Valley at 1.000v and 650/1000 = 55 degrees
Unigine Valley at 1.200v and 1080/1550 = 70 degrees

I used to get similar temperatures with the stock cooler.. so I'm not sure what to make of it.

My VRMs use to hit 95-100 degrees, now they stay around 75-80 degrees.

However, I noticed my H55 pump reporting at 1500RPM. I believe it's supposed to run at 2200RPM. Can anyone else with a H55 let me know what theirs runs at?

I couldn't hook up the G10 fan to my card.. the G10 fan is 3 pin fan whereas the XFX R9 280X fans are a different 4 pin socket. Meanwhile, I have it hooked up to the motherboard.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> Just hooked up my H55 to my G10 on my XFX R9 280x.
> 
> How do these temperatures look?
> 
> Unigine Valley at 1.000v and 650/1000 = 55 degrees
> Unigine Valley at 1.200v and 1080/1550 = 70 degrees
> 
> I used to get similar temperatures with the stock cooler.. so I'm not sure what to make of it.
> 
> My VRMs use to hit 95-100 degrees, now they stay around 75-80 degrees.
> 
> However, I noticed my H55 pump reporting at 1500RPM. I believe it's supposed to run at 2200RPM. Can anyone else with a H55 let me know what theirs runs at?
> 
> I couldn't hook up the G10 fan to my card.. the G10 fan is 3 pin fan whereas the XFX R9 280X fans are a different 4 pin socket. Meanwhile, I have it hooked up to the motherboard.


Sounds like it may not be seated properly. You should see a pretty big decrease in temps on that card. The vrms are being cooled by the fan. I would remove the cooler and look to see if it was seated properly. Plugging the 3pin into the mainboard should appropriately power the fan and pump.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> Just hooked up my H55 to my G10 on my XFX R9 280x.
> 
> How do these temperatures look?
> 
> Unigine Valley at 1.000v and 650/1000 = 55 degrees
> Unigine Valley at 1.200v and 1080/1550 = 70 degrees
> 
> I used to get similar temperatures with the stock cooler.. so I'm not sure what to make of it.
> 
> My VRMs use to hit 95-100 degrees, now they stay around 75-80 degrees.
> 
> However, I noticed my H55 pump reporting at 1500RPM. I believe it's supposed to run at 2200RPM. Can anyone else with a H55 let me know what theirs runs at?
> 
> I couldn't hook up the G10 fan to my card.. the G10 fan is 3 pin fan whereas the XFX R9 280X fans are a different 4 pin socket. Meanwhile, I have it hooked up to the motherboard.


This particular model of 280X might require a copper shim in order to get proper contact between the AIO and GPU die.

Its a $3 part. Just put thermal compounds on either side and you're good to go. If you want, you can also buy a VGA to PWM Fan Adapter. for $5 so you don't need to use a motherboard fan header for the 92mm fan.

I would try plugging the H55 into your PSU through molex adapter to make sure that it is running at full speed.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> hi bro,. i just play, ryse sons of rome, far cry 4, assassins creed unity
> 
> here is a screen shot and also my temps after 15 mins of far cry 4
> 
> 
> 
> i decided to try and change my thermal paste, so now im using collaboratory pro on the gpu die
> 
> and my max temps on gpu core is 55c ! MASSIVE improvements on the Gpu core
> 
> really happy now


Thats much, much better! Glad you were able to get the temps down.

I am wondering just out of curiosity, are you using any kind of heatsinks on your VRMs and VRAM?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

U.S. DEAL ALERT:

Corsair H90 140mm AIO Cooler for only $50 after $30 mail-in-rebate. Free Shipping! If you aren't afraid of MIRs, and want a 140mm AIO to use with your Kraken G10, then is an excellent deal.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> U.S. DEAL ALERT:
> 
> Corsair H90 140mm AIO Cooler for only $50 after $30 mail-in-rebate. Free Shipping! If you aren't afraid of MIRs, and want a 140mm AIO to use with your Kraken G10, then is an excellent deal.


The H-90s are nice if I dont say so myself. That is a great price.

Off topic, are the G-10s on sale anywhere right now? Im looking to pick up a couple for my son in law for Christmas.


----------



## bernieyee

Took PinkoTheCommi's advice and plugged the pump directly to the PSU as well as reseating the pump with a lighter and more evenly distributed layer of thermal paste.

Before:
Unigine Valley at 1.000v and 650/1000 = 55 degrees
Unigine Valley at 1.200v and 1080/1550 = 70 degrees

After:
Unigine Valley at 1.000v and 650/1000 = 40 degrees
Unigine Valley at 1.200v and 1080/1550 = 50 degrees

Absolutely perfect!

Much lower temps all around.. and much less noise compared to the XFX DD heatsink (the fans whined at certain RPMs).

Thanks guys.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Thats much, much better! Glad you were able to get the temps down.
> 
> I am wondering just out of curiosity, are you using any kind of heatsinks on your VRMs and VRAM?


yes bro, im using gelid extreme vrm solution kit, but the memories close to the gpu core doesnt have any vrm coolers, only vrm1 and vrm2, i have search that this 2 vrms are the ones that need to be cooled

i dont know why my vrm goes really hot even with vrm heatsinks

heres my set up, any tips so that i can bring down my temps? im using raven 01 case


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> yes bro, im using gelid extreme vrm solution kit, but the memories close to the gpu core doesnt have any vrm coolers, only vrm1 and vrm2, i have search that this 2 vrms are the ones that need to be cooled
> 
> i dont know why my vrm goes really hot even with vrm heatsinks
> 
> heres my set up, any tips so that i can bring down my temps? im using raven 01 case


Do you have a very strong overclock? Is your AIO set as intake? 80C VRMs is perfectly fine, its not dangerous, but it is on the high side for having heatsinks. What is your ambient temperature?


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Do you have a very strong overclock? Is your AIO set as intake? 80C VRMs is perfectly fine, its not dangerous, but it is on the high side for having heatsinks. What is your ambient temperature?


its all stock bro, no overclock applied, my rad is set to exhaust but the rad is out side the case bro, thanks for the info on the vrm heatsinks, my ambient is about 29c , i live here in the Philippines so temps here is a bit hot

here is another shot from my case, btw the case fan at the bottom of my card is set to intake, blowing air direct to the card


----------



## Vendari

hmmm.. looks like your Rad is starved for air, how does it get fresh air? It's impossible I'm geting better temps than you are, I'm only using a 120mm rad and it's either hotter or just as hot where I live (I live in the Philippines too).


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> hmmm.. looks like your Rad is starved for air, how does it get fresh air? It's impossible I'm geting better temps than you are, I'm only using a 120mm rad and it's either hotter or just as hot where I live (I live in the Philippines too).


i replace the tim that im using on the gpu core, i used collaboratory pro, and my temps are now 55c max on every game, but vrm s are still the same temps


----------



## Vendari

Hmmm.. what vrm heatsinks are you using? I've noticed that the ones that come with thermal adhesive alone do not perform as well as the vrm heatsinks that come with thermal pads and which you SCREW them in. I think the added pressure makes a difference. I remember getting better temps by tightening my AIO properly onto the GPU die.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> Hmmm.. what vrm heatsinks are you using? I've noticed that the ones that come with thermal adhesive alone do not perform as well as the vrm heatsinks that come with thermal pads and which you SCREW them in. I think the added pressure makes a difference. I remember getting better temps by tightening my AIO properly onto the GPU die.


im using gelid extreme vrm kit for the vrms



yes the vrm1 is lock by the screws and im also using thermal pads underneath the vrm1 heatsink, im also using heatsink on the vrm 2 lock with a ziptie


----------



## Vendari

hmmm. then I don't know... are they tight enough? .. I'll just be speculating at this point.

As you can see here:




I modded the unisink that comes with the card. I can't monitor VRM temps but i did do the "touch test" on my card. The back of the pcb is very warm at the most but the unisink is more like "slightly cooled coffe" kinda hot. So I think it's doing it's job well. And I don't ever throttle, not even during a Firestrike bench run.

I have a feeling your room temp is waaaaaay higher than 29c.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> hmmm. then I don't know... are they tight enough? .. I'll just be speculating at this point.
> 
> As you can see here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modded the unisink that comes with the card. I can't monitor VRM temps but i did do the "touch test" on my card. The back of the pcb is very warm at the most but the unisink is more like "slightly cooled coffe" kinda hot. So I think it's doing it's job well. And I don't ever throttle, not even during a Firestrike bench run.
> 
> I have a feeling your room temp is waaaaaay higher than 29c.


eheh yeah my room has only 1 window,,, no fresh air is coming in my room, not so much exhaust also, so i think its normal for my vrm,. but the gpu core is much better now , from 71c to 55c using coollaboratory pro on the die, so i think i cant do anything for the vrms to cool them down, and i dont have aircon,,


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Maynard14

Having VRM temps in the high 70s, low 80s is not dangerous. You will be perfectly fine with those temperatures running for long periods of time. Never, ever, run anything like Furmark or Kombustor though. Your core temperature is very good also, so your current setup as it is, is perfectly fine. The core temp is very good even.

Your VRM temperatures are higher than others who use the Gelid Kit. Try what Vendari said and tighten it down a little more? I think it really comes down to your ambient temperature and poor room airflow.

Your ambient temperature and room airflow make a big difference. Even in my room, just by closing the door and keeping it closed for an hour will increase my GPU's core temperature by 5C and VRM temperatures by 8C. I think you getting less than optimal results has to do more with how your room is than anything inside your computer.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Maynard14
> 
> Having VRM temps in the high 70s, low 80s is not dangerous. You will be perfectly fine with those temperatures running for long periods of time. Never, ever, run anything like Furmark or Kombustor though. Your core temperature is very good also, so your current setup as it is, is perfectly fine. The core temp is very good even.
> 
> Your VRM temperatures are higher than others who use the Gelid Kit. Try what Vendari said and tighten it down a little more? I think it really comes down to your ambient temperature and poor room airflow.
> 
> Your ambient temperature and room airflow make a big difference. Even in my room, just by closing the door and keeping it closed for an hour will increase my GPU's core temperature by 5C and VRM temperatures by 8C. I think you getting less than optimal results has to do more with how your room is than anything inside your computer.


thank you sir, yeah i think thats why my vmr temps are way to high compare to others, maybe ill set my pc near the window so that it can get fresh air,. and i tighted the vrm heatsink for the vrm 1 and it works! max i got now is 75c compare to 80+c, and im planing to buy a fan controller so that i can put a sp fan to push aor to the vrms

thank you so much for your help guys, and yes the gpu core is very cool now at 55c max for all games is just amazing, collaboratory pro really helps too


----------



## stolikat

Is everyone jumping over to these AIO water setups? I do want to make some changes to my load out but could use some advice. I know I need to get a g10 and an h55 as I am having more heat then I would like to playing AC:U and FC4. What I want to know is should I swap cases and such?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolikat*
> 
> Is everyone jumping over to these AIO water setups? I do want to make some changes to my load out but could use some advice. I know I need to get a g10 and an h55 as I am having more heat then I would like to playing AC:U and FC4. What I want to know is should I swap cases and such?


No need to swap cases at all. Just set your H55 to rear exhaust.

Some optional parts that I highly recommend for the G10 mod are:

2nd 120mm Fan. Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm for $9 is an excellent static pressure fan.

VGA to PWM Adapter - $5. This allows you to plug your 92mm fan directly into your GPU instead of through a valuable motherboard fan header. You then control the fan speed through Afterburner. Make sure you set it to a constant RPM at or near 100%. NOT on a fan curve.

20pcs Aluminum Heatsinks - $6. This is optional, but highly recommended. They are very inexpensive, and give you that extra peace of mind for lower VRM and VRAM temperatures.

Double Sided Sekisui Thermal Tape - $2.75. This is to attach the tiny aluminum heatsinks. The included tape on the heatsinks is low quality and doesn't adhere well or conduct heat well.

If you don't already have some thermal paste, I recommend you buy some of your own. Mounting the G10 is not the easiest thing in the world, and if you are relying on just the included thermal paste, if you don't mount it properly the first time, you might be mounting it with messy paste the next time. Having your own high end TIM will help lower temperatures on both your CPU and GPU, as well as give you plenty of extra. Some good brands are: Noctua NT-H1(which I see you already have, or should have), Arctic MX-4, Prolimatech PK-3, IC Diamond 7, and Gelid GC Extreme.


----------



## Aznlotus161

@Pinko, just wanna say awesome post.

Repped+









Lots of great info here.

Still waiting to see a modder use a G10 with a Gigabyte GTX 970 somehow.


----------



## stolikat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> No need to swap cases at all. Just set your H55 to rear exhaust.
> 
> Some option parts that I highly recommend for the G10 mod are:
> 
> 2nd 120mm Fan. Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm for $9 is an excellent static pressure fan.
> 
> VGA to PWM Adapter - $5. This allows you to plug your 92mm fan directly into your GPU instead of through a valuable motherboard fan header. You then control the fan speed through Afterburner. Make sure you set it to a constant RPM at or near 100%. NOT on a fan curve.
> 
> 20pcs Aluminum Heatsinks - $6. This is optional, but highly recommended. They are very inexpensive, and give you that extra peace of mind for lower VRM and VRAM temperatures.
> 
> Double Sided Sekisui Thermal Tape - $2.75. This is to attach the tiny aluminum heatsinks. The included tape on the heatsinks is low quality and doesn't adhere well or conduct heat well.
> 
> If you don't already have some thermal paste, I recommend you buy some of your own. Mounting the G10 is not the easiest thing in the world, and if you are relying on just the included thermal paste, if you don't mount it properly the first time, you might be mounting it with messy paste the next time. Having your own high end TIM will help lower temperatures on both your CPU and GPU, as well as give you plenty of extra. Some good brands are: Noctua NT-H1(which I see you already have, or should have), Arctic MX-4, Prolimatech PK-3, IC Diamond 7, and Gelid GC Extreme.


Thanks for that post. Repped+

I cant mount the Radiator in the back I don't think as my Noctua air cooler takes up to much space. My case currently has two side intake fans. I was thinking of swapping one to exhaust and mounting the radiator there. Thoughts?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolikat*
> 
> Thanks for that post. Repped+
> 
> I cant mount the Radiator in the back I don't think as my Noctua air cooler takes up to much space. My case currently has two side intake fans. I was thinking of swapping one to exhaust and mounting the radiator there. Thoughts?


Yea, if it fits, I don't see why not. You might even be able to set up push/pull if you are ok with having a fan on the outside of your case.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> @Pinko, just wanna say awesome post.
> 
> Repped+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of great info here.
> 
> Still waiting to see a modder use a G10 with a Gigabyte GTX 970 somehow.


Someone hasn't figured out a way to get it on a Gigabyte 970? Is it just that the VRMs are on the other side, or whats the roadblock? Thanks for the +rep!


----------



## 5erveD

Awesome stuff !

What kind of temps are you getting with an AIO cooler.

I am thinking about mounting a bracket on the 980 but am curious about the temps.
I have got an a small 120 mm AIO cooler to mount.

Did you see a significant drop in temps under load ?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> Awesome stuff !
> 
> What kind of temps are you getting with an AIO cooler.
> 
> I am thinking about mounting a bracket on the 980 but am curious about the temps.
> I have got an a small 120 mm AIO cooler to mount.
> 
> Did you see a significant drop in temps under load ?


Not all AIOs are compatible with the G10 bracket, make sure the one you have is compatible. The gains by using the G10 and 120mm on 900 series GPUs aren't as great as other GPUs because the 900s are such low TDP cards, that they don't run hot as it is. Already owning a 120mm AIO does offset a lot of the cost, just make sure its compatible.


----------



## 5erveD

Cheers for the repy

I have got an 3.0 performer somewhere laying around here.
Seems to compatible.
So the only thing left to buy is the bracket, about € 30,-

Not that it is expensive but want to make ( pretty ) sure it is worth the hassle.

Got an evga gtx 980 SC. Evga isn't really giving much greef about swapping coolers as long as I leave it intact.
Got an nzxt h630 tower so space isnt really an issue.

What would be your opinion on this matter ?

Gr.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> Cheers for the repy
> 
> I have got an 3.0 performer somewhere laying around here.
> Seems to compatible.
> So the only thing left to buy is the bracket, about € 30,-
> 
> Not that it is expensive but want to make ( pretty ) sure it is worth the hassle.
> 
> Got an evga gtx 980 SC. Evga isn't really giving much greef about swapping coolers as long as I leave it intact.
> Got an nzxt h630 tower so space isnt really an issue.
> 
> What would be your opinion on this matter ?
> 
> Gr.


Yup, that cooler is compatible!

Also, EVGA is very good, probably the best when it comes to allowing for watercooling, and changing out the stock heatsink. Just keep the original heatsink in a box, in case you ever need to sell or return it. Best of all, it uses the reference PCB, so the VRMs are on the correct side of the card. This will be easily, and because you already own the AIO, I do recommend that you do this modification if you want some extra cooling and lower temperatures.



I do recommend that you purchase some extras. These are optional, but highly encouraged.

I know you live in EU, so try and find the same items locally.

20pcs Aluminum Heatsinks

Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape

VGA to PWM Adapter

Thermal Paste of your choice, I recommend: Arctic MX-4, Prolimatech PK-3, IC Diamond 7, Noctua NT-H1, Gelid-GC Extreme.

To add the aluminum heatsinks, you need to first remove the included thermal tape that comes pre-applied. Then you want to clean the bottom of the heatsinks with isopropyl alcohol to get a clean surface so that you can apply the sekisui thermal tape. You will have to cut down the thermal tape to fit each heatsink. Next you will clean the mid-plate of the GPU with isopropyl alcohol to get a clean surface to help with heat transfer, and adhesion.

Here is how I recommend you apply the heatsinks to your EVGA GTX 980 SC:



Lastly, attach the G10's 92mm fan to the VGA to PWM adapter you purchased. This will allow you to control the fan speed through MSI afterburner. Set the fan speed to a constant speed, not a fan curve. You want it close to 100%. This is the fan for the VRMs, it is very important that it is at a high speed. MSI afterburner measures temperature from the GPU's core, so setting up a fan curve wont work.

Set your radiator to rear exhaust and enjoy the lower temperatures and noise. I don't know by how much the temperatures will decrease, because 980 temps are already very low. But I estimate by 15-20C, while also giving you more room to overclock. Noise should also decrease substantially compared to the stock cooler.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Here is how I recommend you apply the heatsinks to your EVGA GTX 980 SC:


Did you actually see an improvement putting sinks on the vram? I saw nothing significant by adding them to the 770s i was running previously.

I have 970s, not a 980, but the temp drop was about 15c on both of them, not as significant as with the 770s I ran but still nice. As for OCing the memory on these 900 series card, it appears to be the hynix memory that is not overclocking well. Im not sure which memory EVGA is using.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Did you actually see an improvement putting sinks on the vram? I saw nothing significant by adding them to the 770s i was running previously.
> 
> I have 970s, not a 980, but the temp drop was about 15c on both of them, not as significant as with the 770s I ran but still nice. As for OCing the memory on these 900 series card, it appears to be the hynix memory that is not overclocking well. Im not sure which memory EVGA is using.


I didn't test it myself, but others in this forum who have run before and after tests with added heatsinks are showing 10-15C VRM temp drops by adding heat sinks.

I have an NZXT Sentry3 Fan Controller that has a built in temperature probe. I have it right on my VRMs and I have never exceeded 54C, and I'm in the 40s for the most part. I just use those aluminum heatsinks that I linked above. I have them all over my GPU's midplate.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I didn't test it myself, but others in this forum who have run before and after tests with added heatsinks are showing 10-15C VRM temp drops by adding heat sinks.
> 
> I have an NZXT Sentry3 Fan Controller that has a built in temperature probe. I have it right on my VRMs and I have never exceeded 54C, and I'm in the 40s for the most part. I just use those aluminum heatsinks that I linked above. I have them all over my GPU's midplate.


Yes they lowered my vram temps, thats not what i meant. The amount at which I could overclock however did not increase. This was just my experience of course.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yes they lowered my vram temps, thats not what i meant. The amount at which I could overclock however did not increase. This was just my experience of course.


Oh.. I misunderstood. I think that is going to always be card specific, depending on how lucky of a card you get.

I've owned two EVGA 780 SCs, and the first one was just god awful. Wouldn't go higher than +50 on the core(no matter how much voltage I added), and if I increased memory at all it would artifact. One day while playing BF4 my screen just went brownish pink and the card was dead. I RMA'd it and the card I got back, the one I'm using now does +100Core, + 250Memory without any extra voltage.

Silicon lottery. I know some people say ASIC score doesn't matter, but the ASIC score on my crap 780 was 63.1%(worst ever recorded by a 780 on OCN) and the score on my new 780 is 73.3%.


----------



## vulcan78

My Kraken set-up is complete, let me know what you guys think:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSE8SYdFXwY&feature=youtu.be

Oh and the AIO's are pushing out of the case in case anyone is wondering.

Previous build:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGtlksj-Fdc

Full system specs and bench in signature.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

NZXT Kraken G10(Black) on sale at Tigerdirect for only $10

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=8927105&Sku=

NZXT G10(White) on sale at Newegg.com for $20

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146036

EDIT*

I also just discovered the Corsair H90 for sale on Newegg.com for only $50 after $30 MIR. If you aren't afraid of mail in rebates, definitely get the H90 over H55 if you can fit it in your case.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Vincent, you need to remove that video. You make tons of unsubstantiated claims and are giving the G10 a bad name with unfounded results.


----------



## Ultisym

That G-10 for $10....fricking missed it. Must of been a black friday limited time thing..... Still looking for a pair of whites though and would like to pay this $10 price LOL. He would of lived with black for sure if I could of gotten those for $10 though


----------



## 5erveD

@ PinkoTheCommi

Thanks a lot for the details and all the extra info.
I found an adapter at my local shop. Still looking for the heatsinks and thermal tape.

I don't think Newegg, Amazon and Tigerdirect ship to Holland.
And we don't really have something called Black Friday overhere.

I still got some Arctic silver 5 paste. You reckon I could use it for the gpu coz it is mainly for cpu's
I think i'll just try !

@ Ultisym

I have got the Samsung memory. That's the Hynix right ?

Thanks again guys for the info.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> @ PinkoTheCommi
> 
> Thanks a lot for the details and all the extra info.
> I found an adapter at my local shop. Still looking for the heatsinks and thermal tape.
> 
> I don't think Newegg, Amazon and Tigerdirect ship to Holland.
> And we don't really have something called Black Friday overhere.
> 
> I still got some Arctic silver 5 paste. You reckon I could use it for the gpu coz it is mainly for cpu's
> I think i'll just try !
> 
> @ Ultisym
> 
> I have got the Samsung memory. That's the Hynix right ?
> 
> Thanks again guys for the info.


No the Samsung memory is the one thats supposed to be overclocking well for everyone actually.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> @ PinkoTheCommi
> 
> Thanks a lot for the details and all the extra info.
> I found an adapter at my local shop. Still looking for the heatsinks and thermal tape.
> 
> I don't think Newegg, Amazon and Tigerdirect ship to Holland.
> And we don't really have something called Black Friday overhere.
> 
> I still got some Arctic silver 5 paste. You reckon I could use it for the gpu coz it is mainly for cpu's
> I think i'll just try !
> 
> @ Ultisym
> 
> I have got the Samsung memory. That's the Hynix right ?
> 
> Thanks again guys for the info.


Try ebay for the heatsinks and thermal tape. Also, AS5 is not the best TIM, but it will do.


----------



## Ultisym

Finally had some time to beat on the 970 sli setup today after installing them a couple weeks ago. My max temps with the Kraken G-10s and Corsair H-90s on the 970s are 48C on the top card and 45C on the bottom with idle temps of 30C and 27C respectively. This is with clocks hitting ~1500 core and 7600 memory. Max temps were after gaming for 2 hours and the idle temps were taken 30 minutes after finishing the game session and then idling the computer. With the air coolers on the 970s and in the same tests/games/time frames, The setup was hitting ~63C on the top GPU and 57C on the bottom GPU and idling at 45 and 41C respectively.

The sweetest part is that this all swapped straight over from the 770 Sli setup to the 970 Sli setup with out requiring any new parts







. Well except for a 40mm minikaze fan installed over the vrm heatsink on each GPU to make sure they stay cool.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Someone hasn't figured out a way to get it on a Gigabyte 970? Is it just that the VRMs are on the other side, or whats the roadblock? Thanks for the +rep!


I don't think it's worth the trouble and others seem to think alike.

VRMs opposite side and with such a lengthy card, I don't think the screws/mounts will work without some serious adjusting.

Hate to say it, but the HG10 was a disappointment. Lots of anticipation that led to a decent product, but not outstanding improvement--if any--over the G10.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Finally had some time to beat on the 970 sli setup today after installing them a couple weeks ago. My max temps with the Kraken G-10s and Corsair H-90s on the 970s are 48C on the top card and 45C on the bottom with idle temps of 30C and 27C respectively. This is with clocks hitting ~1500 core and 7600 memory. Max temps were after gaming for 2 hours and the idle temps were taken 30 minutes after finishing the game session and then idling the computer. With the air coolers on the 970s and in the same tests/games/time frames, The setup was hitting ~63C on the top GPU and 57C on the bottom GPU and idling at 45 and 41C respectively.
> 
> The sweetest part is that this all swapped straight over from the 770 Sli setup to the 970 Sli setup with out requiring any new parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Well except for a 40mm minikaze fan installed over the vrm heatsink on each GPU to make sure they stay cool.


I demand pics!

I'll take a silent computer over a slightly better performance pc any day, but seems like you have the best of both worlds.


----------



## et3rn47

I also plan to SLI gtx 970s, right now im debating on a motherboard issue.
i am interested in a TUF sabertooth z87, but its a refurb. Beyond the refurb it says certified grade A.
...
what does that even mean. If somebody would tell me it would help me vetter allocsted my financial resources, thanks.


----------



## crayneogeo

Nobody in the 7870 thread seems that interested, so I thought I would post a pic of my computer after finishing both 7870 Tahiti GPUs with the bracket. you can see in the picture the VRMs are on the wrong side for cooling with the stock fan mount, so I modded the bracket to hold the 80mm fans on the left over the VRMs.

Case needed a slight mod to notch out a place for hte second radiator. I plan on going rigid tubing for my CPU sometime this week, so I will update when that is done. Overall, the bracket + 2x H55's I got as refurbs from newegg months ago for $25 have cut my temps way down (60's while benching).


----------



## et3rn47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crayneogeo*
> 
> Overall, the bracket + 2x H55's I got as refurbs from newegg months ago for $25 have cut my temps way down (60's while benching).


Maybe you can tell me
you got refurbs, whats the difference between refurbs, and refurbs that are "certified grade -a "


----------



## crayneogeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> Maybe you can tell me
> you got refurbs, whats the difference between refurbs, and refurbs that are "certified grade -a "


I am not sure, if I remember, because it was months agp, they were not labeled with a grade. They came in what seemed like a factory sealed box. I think they were refurbished by corsair, because everything looked new. It was a deal I saw on slickdeals and I just jumped. For 25 bucks no rebate I figured I would fine a use for them


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crayneogeo*
> 
> Nobody in the 7870 thread seems that interested, so I thought I would post a pic of my computer after finishing both 7870 Tahiti GPUs with the bracket. you can see in the picture the VRMs are on the wrong side for cooling with the stock fan mount, so I modded the bracket to hold the 80mm fans on the left over the VRMs.
> 
> Case needed a slight mod to notch out a place for hte second radiator. I plan on going rigid tubing for my CPU sometime this week, so I will update when that is done. Overall, the bracket + 2x H55's I got as refurbs from newegg months ago for $25 have cut my temps way down (60's while benching).


Might I suggest you mount the top card's rad on the rear exhaust? It might lower your overall case temp and maybe reduce the bend on that top GPU.

Otherwise nice setup.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> I also plan to SLI gtx 970s, right now im debating on a motherboard issue.
> i am interested in a TUF sabertooth z87, but its a refurb. Beyond the refurb it says certified grade A.
> ...
> what does that even mean. If somebody would tell me it would help me vetter allocsted my financial resources, thanks.


I would avoid Refurb motherboards like the plague... Just my two cents. Check out the Asus Z97-AR from TigerDirect.com They have a $30 Mail in Rebate, which takes the price down from $130 to $100, and then as an added bonus, if you have a product over $100 and pay with PayPal, they give you $25 off. So a mid-to-high end Z97 motherboard ends up being only $75! Amazing deal. It looks great and has SLI. Best of all, brand new.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> I don't think it's worth the trouble and others seem to think alike.
> 
> VRMs opposite side and with such a lengthy card, I don't think the screws/mounts will work without some serious adjusting.
> 
> Hate to say it, but the HG10 was a disappointment. Lots of anticipation that led to a decent product, but not outstanding improvement--if any--over the G10.
> I demand pics!
> 
> I'll take a silent computer over a slightly better performance pc any day, but seems like you have the best of both worlds.


Somehow I knew that the HG10 would be a terrible option. I was interested in it for awhile, but after doing my research, I found out the G10 was the vastly superior product. Do you have reviews of the HG10 by chance? I would love to see them. I know only the reference R9 290 version is available right now, but am still curious to give it a read over.

Dude, those 970 cards are bad... as in good. Holy crap. 1500Mhz and you were only hitting 63C on stock cooler... thats insane. The G10 probably makes it more quiet too. Thats a nice set up man, I would love to see some pictures as well.


----------



## crayneogeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Might I suggest you mount the top card's rad on the rear exhaust? It might lower your overall case temp and maybe reduce the bend on that top GPU.
> 
> Otherwise nice setup.


I thought about it initially, but decided it was much cleaner this way, since there was already a fan mount in the divider where I mounted the rad and it keeps the hoses looking clean. I actually do not run the rear exhaust fan to keep the noise to a minimum. The airflow in the case goes from the bottom straight up through the top. The top mount 320rad has the fans mounted above it in a "pull" configuration. I realize I am dumping all the warm air from my GPU's into my CPU rad but since the CPU loop is overkill for for my setup (not running over 1.3v) I still get good cpu temps and have very little noise.

My fan speeds are as follows, which is either the lowest they will go, or the highest speed I can run them without hearing any increase in noise:

CPU rad : 900 rpm
CPU pump 1200 rpm
GPU Rads 1000 rpm
GPU pumps 1200 rpm

I usually keep the MOSFAN off as well. Since the computer is right next to me in my office, in a very quiet house, I try to keep the db around 20 coming form the machine. I have found I can keep these speeds consistent even while gaming and get decent temps. For me I def prefer noise reduction over extra low temps.

Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## 5erveD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Try ebay for the heatsinks and thermal tape. Also, AS5 is not the best TIM, but it will do.


Thanks again for all the info.

Am still on the lookout for alu heatsinks.
I am able to order copper ones. But prefer alu.
Those sinks are a though nut to crack, Can't really seem to find the right ones

Got some sandpaper as well for lapping the AIO cooler.

I'll post some pics when I am able to do some work on it.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Somehow I knew that the HG10 would be a terrible option. I was interested in it for awhile, but after doing my research, I found out the G10 was the vastly superior product. Do you have reviews of the HG10 by chance? I would love to see them. I know only the reference R9 290 version is available right now, but am still curious to give it a read over.


Yeah although I've seen the HG10 run cooler for some scenarios, it's definitely not worth the $40 since you can snag a G10 for a mere $10 on sale or $20.

Yep if you have some free time there's a nice in-depth one by OC3D TV:




Some quick numbers from bit-tech:


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> Thanks again for all the info.
> 
> Am still on the lookout for alu heatsinks.
> I am able to order copper ones. But prefer alu.
> Those sinks are a though nut to crack, Can't really seem to find the right ones
> 
> Got some sandpaper as well for lapping the AIO cooler.
> 
> I'll post some pics when I am able to do some work on it.


Theres no need to lap the AIO cooler. It comes pre-lapped by the factor. I think you would be doing harm trying to do something yourself.

Copper heatsinks do work, and are actually better than aluminum but they are often a lot more expensive and heavy. People have reported them falling off.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Yeah although I've seen the HG10 run cooler for some scenarios, it's definitely not worth the $40 since you can snag a G10 for a mere $10 on sale or $20.
> 
> Yep if you have some free time there's a nice in-depth one by OC3D TV:


Thank you for showing me that. Also, those VRM temperatures are still very low, even on the G10! Imagine how much lower they will be if you add just $10 worth of heatsinks. Not to mention the G10 is usable on so many more GPUs, it makes the HG10 an awful buy.

EDIT: After watching the video, Tiny Tom Logan is full of ****. But I'll get to him later.

First, the installation is SO much more complicated for the HG10 than the G10, and the G10 is no piece of cake.

Second, He says that the performance of the G10 is really bad because it doesn't have VRM Cooling. The he later says that he never got to test the G10. He also failed to do a before and after VRM temps for the card he is actually testing, he just started ramping up the fan speed on the VRM fan, which does give a noticeable improvement, but how can you not do a before and after.

Third, Gold innovation award??? Its an idea thats been done before and Corsair just borrowed the idea, no innovation whatsoever.

Fourth, He says the G10 and HG10 is the same price. Its not. The HG10 is $40, and you're stuck using it on that one specific card. The G10 is available for as low as $10-$20 and can be reused on a myriad of different cards. The VRM Cooling of the G10 is NOT BAD. He even says in the video that 85C(which is what the HG10 does) is not bad for the VRMs, thats the VRM temps as the G10!

TTL is full of ****.

The G10 without heatsinks works very well, and given the money you save by going with a G10, you can easily afford $10 worth of heatsinks and high end thermal tape, which still paying less, and having a more universal GPU AIO Cooler.

HG10 = Flawed product.


----------



## 5erveD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Theres no need to lap the AIO cooler. It comes pre-lapped by the factor. I think you would be doing harm trying to do something yourself.
> 
> Copper heatsinks do work, and are actually better than aluminum but they are often a lot more expensive and heavy. People have reported them falling off.


I have seen some good temp reduction from lapping the cpu/cooler.
From 5° to 9° C. I have checked the AIO. And it is not complete flat.

Ok. cheers for the headsup about the alu/copper heatsinks.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> I have seen some good temp reduction from lapping the cpu/cooler.
> From 5° to 9° C. I have checked the AIO. And it is not complete flat.
> 
> Ok. cheers for the headsup about the alu/copper heatsinks.


It is not supposed to be completely flat. The mounting pressure makes it flat.


----------



## 5erveD

Never actually thought about that.
I'll reconsider the lapping.

I got one qeustion tho, about the heatsinks.
I can get various sizes. Metric sizes that is.

What is the headroom for those heatsinks ? Is there enough space for bigger ones?

Do the 10mm x 10mm x 14mm fit.
Or are they to heavy and will they fall of when getting to hot.

In your link about the aluminium sinks the size in metric would be something like
6,5mm x 6,5mm x 12mm

Did you swap out the 92 mm fan of the bracket ?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> Never actually thought about that.
> I'll reconsider the lapping.
> 
> I got one qeustion tho, about the heatsinks.
> I can get various sizes. Metric sizes that is.
> 
> What is the headroom for those heatsinks ? Is there enough space for bigger ones?
> 
> Do the 10mm x 10mm x 14mm fit.
> Or are they to heavy and will they fall of when getting to hot.
> 
> In your link about the aluminium sinks the size in metric would be something like
> 6,5mm x 6,5mm x 12mm
> 
> Did you swap out the 92 mm fan of the bracket ?


Could you link me the ones you're considering?

I think this website ships overseas.

Here are some AlphaCool Aluminum Heatsinks

Its not the aluminum ones that are too heavy, its the copper ones that tend to fall off. They shouldn't thought if you use the Sekisui Thermal Tape that I recommended.

You have a decent amount of headroom to fit some taller heatsinks. A lot of room actually, I'll post a picture soon.

I actually did switch out my 92mm Fan, but it is not necessary at all. The only reason I "replaced" it is because I wanted a 2nd 92mm fan to use as exhaust in my case. The included fan is high quality and very quiet even at 100% RPM.

If you are really not having any luck finding any, I am happy to ship you some myself. I can even include some Sekisui Thermal Tape for free, I ordered too much of it, and have no use for it all. I have shipped computer components to people all over the world as long as they pay for the item(s) and shipping costs. I can send you their information if you would like verification. I've sent items to people in Belgium, Sweden, and Philipines and it is surprisingly cheap. The most its ever cost was $11 for an item that weighed about 32 ounches. These will weigh much less.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> I demand pics!
> 
> I'll take a silent computer over a slightly better performance pc any day, but seems like you have the best of both worlds.


LOL, I actually didnt snap any pics of the final installation, I made the bracket to hold the 40mm minikazis out of a couple case blanks that were vented. Simply cut the right angle part off and insert a screw and nut trhough the bracket and then fan. Then attach bracket to the case with one of the pci slot case screws and angled the fan down to blow over the entire vrm. While it works great, it is still in ghetto fab mode. I am working on a much nicer mount. When i finish I will take plenty of photos, but the whole concept is really quite simple. The 970s are responding beautifully. Without changing any settings at all in gpu tweak, the core boosted 50 to 70 mhz over what the air coolers were getting. I put the power target to max and the gpu tweak voltage to the max it would go and it boosted to ~1500. I will have to play around with it to see what my actual max OC is going to be. All in all, I have to be happy with it though. It works great and was recycled from the last gpu setup I had.. Cant ask for a whole lot more for that kind of money.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Dude, those 970 cards are bad... as in good. Holy crap. 1500Mhz and you were only hitting 63C on stock cooler... thats insane. The G10 probably makes it more quiet too. Thats a nice set up man, I would love to see some pictures as well.


To be clear, I did not try to go 1500 on the air coolers. I was getting ~1300-1350 on air at those temps though. I didnt try and go further since I knew i was swapping over to the G-10s. I just played with them a few weeks to make sure everything was good before I started screwing with altering new gpus.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> EDIT: After watching the video, Tiny Tom Logan is full of ****. But I'll get to him later.
> 
> First, the installation is SO much more complicated for the HG10 than the G10, and the G10 is no piece of cake.
> 
> Second, He says that the performance of the G10 is really bad because it doesn't have VRM Cooling. The he later says that he never got to test the G10. He also failed to do a before and after VRM temps for the card he is actually testing, he just started ramping up the fan speed on the VRM fan, which does give a noticeable improvement, but how can you not do a before and after.
> 
> Third, Gold innovation award??? Its an idea thats been done before and Corsair just borrowed the idea, no innovation whatsoever.
> 
> Fourth, He says the G10 and HG10 is the same price. Its not. The HG10 is $40, and you're stuck using it on that one specific card. The G10 is available for as low as $10-$20 and can be reused on a myriad of different cards. The VRM Cooling of the G10 is NOT BAD. He even says in the video that 85C(which is what the HG10 does) is not bad for the VRMs, thats the VRM temps as the G10!
> 
> TTL is full of ****.
> 
> The G10 without heatsinks works very well, and given the money you save by going with a G10, you can easily afford $10 worth of heatsinks and high end thermal tape, which still paying less, and having a more universal GPU AIO Cooler.
> 
> .


Agreed. Anybody who thinks the G-10 doesnt work has clearly not familiarized themselves with the product. Its simple and very straight forward . Maybe thats what throws them.









I shadowed the HG-10 thread since it was first announced (Actually still a rumor). I have not been impressed with it and for the most part, there was nothing ingenious about it. In fact a lot of the people even complained in the thread that it was making no significant difference for them. They didnt even bother to come up with something original for the name of the product.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> To be clear, I did not try to go 1500 on the air coolers. I was getting ~1300-1350 on air at those temps though. I didnt try and go further since I knew i was swapping over to the G-10s. I just played with them a few weeks to make sure everything was good before I started screwing with altering new gpus.


Even still... 1300Mhz at ~63 is incredible and 1500 at sub-50C is just... wow.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Agreed. Anybody who thinks the G-10 doesnt work has clearly not familiarized themselves with the product. Its simple and very straight forward . Maybe thats what throws them.


Well, when you type in G10 Review, the very first thing that pops up is that PugetSystem Review that shows the thermal images of them running Furmark/Kombustor AND they have their X40 as an intake pointing directly at the GPU blasting hot air all over it further skewing the results. They also make the mistake of assuming that watercooling every component is the same, and make a claim that in the paste they have seen a decrease of 5-7C by having their radiator set as intake compared to exhaust. This is a nuanced product/modification and you cannot use past results and preconceptions when reviewing a new product. Read the comments and you see tons of people blasting the reviewer for poor airflow and radiator placement.

At first glance, it doesn't look good, but once you realize that Furmark/Kombustor is a dangerous program that bricks cards, and no game or application will ever recreate that type of load its a flawed test. Of course as a reviewer it is their job to test all scenarios, but it is a completely unrealistic scenario, they have their AIO set up the wrong way, and in the gaming(Unigine) section of their heat test, the G10 does better than the stock cooler on both the R9 290X and GTX Titan. Just look at those thermal images in the Unigine portion of the test and you can plainly see that the core, VRAM, and VRM temperatures lower than the stock heatsink's temps.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Even still... 1300Mhz at ~63 is incredible and 1500 at sub-50C is just... wow.


Yes it still seems kind of crazy after coming from the hotter kepler cards. And even those were not hot compared to most other gpu designs. Maxwell is definitely a new beast and it should be a good ride for gpus of both colors over the next year or two with the new tech released into the wild.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yes it still seems kind of crazy after coming from the hotter kepler cards. And even those were not hot compared to most other gpu designs. Maxwell is definitely a new beast and it should be a good ride for gpus of both colors over the next year or two with the new tech released into the wild.


Yea, I agree. It truly is a beast. I remember watching the press conference, its incredible how they were able to almost cut TDP in half, yet still provide better performance. Rumor has it there is a 980Ti that will be released that is *up to 50% more powerful than a 980*. They are probably holding onto that one until after the R9 390Xs hit the market so that Nvidia can reclaim top single GPU crown.

I am excited for the new 300 series from Radeon, rumors are showing it beating out the Nvidia cards.

Its all rumors though.. I tend to pay no attention to them, but all of the rumors I was seeing about the 900 cards ended up being true, so there must be some fire behind the smoke.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yea, I agree. It truly is a beast. I remember watching the press conference, its incredible how they were able to almost cut TDP in half, yet still provide better performance. Rumor has it there is a 980Ti that will be released that is *up to 50% more powerful than a 980*. They are probably holding onto that one until after the R9 390Xs hit the market so that Nvidia can reclaim top single GPU crown.
> 
> I am excited for the new 300 series from Radeon, rumors are showing it beating out the Nvidia cards.
> 
> Its all rumors though.. I tend to pay no attention to them, but all of the rumors I was seeing about the 900 cards ended up being true, so there must be some fire behind the smoke.


Ive been watching reviews closely too. A build a lot of machines with AMD gpus still just because of the price. Assuming AMD sticks to the lower price ranges, this will make for some very capable "budget" builds since power and cooling demands are so much easier to hit. I really just hope developers do not get lazy on the software side and actually take advantage of everything this new generation can do sooner rather than later. one of the reasons I stepped up, other than the obvious, to the 970s was for DX 12 compatibility. But it is not lost on me that I may still not have that by the time I have need to upgrade again.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Hey guys,

Do we have a recommended set of sinks for RAM, there are alot of options on Amazon and I haven't as of yet decided on one. obviously copper is gonna be the way to go I'm thinking, what do you suggest? I'm gonna shoot to do 2x 2GB cards RAM for under $15 if possible.


----------



## 5erveD

@ PinkoThe Commi

Frozencpu does ship to Holland but the fee makes it more expensive compared to the ones I am able to buy here.

heatsink 1

heatsink 2

heatsink 3

Cheers for the offer. I might take you up for that.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Do we have a recommended set of sinks for RAM, there are alot of options on Amazon and I haven't as of yet decided on one. obviously copper is gonna be the way to go I'm thinking, what do you suggest? I'm gonna shoot to do 2x 2GB cards RAM for under $15 if possible.


Cosmos Copper Heatsinks x8

Cosmos Aluminum Heatsinks x20

Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape

Honestly, just buy the Aluminum ones. You wont have to worry about them falling off, they're less expensive, and they still get the job done.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> @ PinkoThe Commi
> 
> Frozencpu does ship to Holland but the fee makes it more expensive compared to the ones I am able to buy here.
> 
> heatsink 1
> 
> heatsink 2
> 
> heatsink 3
> 
> Cheers for the offer. I might take you up for that.


All of those will work, you could buy any of those and it will get the job done. I recommend the 10x10x14mm 10 pack ones. Just make sure to buy some Sekisui Thermal Tape or something else that is strong because those are copper, they are heavy and will not stick as well as aluminum. Make sure you clean the surface you are going to adhere them onto.

Since they only come in packs of 10, I recommend placing them like this:


----------



## xelectroxwolfx

I just pulled the trigger on the G10 Black, and I have 2x GTX 660's in SLI, I purchased two brackets but only one Corsair h55 just incase it doesnt want to work with SLI and or my 750d which is coming in soon. However I want to know anybody with a non referenace GTX 660 running a G10 and if so and tips? and if it works well enough I know when I upgrade to gtx 970 I can trust its perforamnce and features in my case.


----------



## xelectroxwolfx

anybody with corsair 750d and Kraken g10?!?! What cooler seems to fit best?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xelectroxwolfx*
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on the G10 Black, and I have 2x GTX 660's in SLI, I purchased two brackets but only one Corsair h55 just incase it doesnt want to work with SLI and or my 750d which is coming in soon. However I want to know anybody with a non referenace GTX 660 running a G10 and if so and tips? and if it works well enough I know when I upgrade to gtx 970 I can trust its perforamnce and features in my case.


Ive got two H-90s on a Sli setup. It limits your possible mounting locations but is doable for sure. I dont have any experience with the 760D but was able to make it work in my 400r. The 760 appears to be bigger?


----------



## xelectroxwolfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ive got two H-90s on a Sli setup. It limits your possible mounting locations but is doable for sure. I dont have any experience with the 760D but was able to make it work in my 400r. The 760 appears to be bigger?


Yeah im afraid the length on the corsair h55's wont be enough to reach the front of the case
its only 11.5 inch tubes.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xelectroxwolfx*
> 
> Yeah im afraid the length on the corsair h55's wont be enough to reach the front of the case
> its only 11.5 inch tubes.


No its not likely to reach the front. My options were any combination of the following:
One on the top rear of the case.
Two on the removable case side
One on the bottom.

I ended up mounting both on the removable side cover of the case and placing the fans on the outside of the cover (Did not want to kink lines) with grills. The upper gpu may or may not mount on the top of the case. I already had the 280mm radiator mounted there on intake so I didnt even try this.


----------



## Quadrider10

Whats up guys?

So i have a EVGA GTX 780 Ti Kingpin Edition, and this card runs toasty! you would think for a $600 card they would at least include a Very decent stock cooler. anyway, in 20C ambient temps, im getting about 75C on the core. come summer, this is going to cause an issue. so i was looking at the G10 as a liable option. though i have a few questions first. my card has a VRAM and VRM heat spreader that currently is cooled passively by the fans that blow air through the cooler. So i know i can keep the VRM heat spreader on, but what about the VRAM heat spreader? would i be able to keep this on when i mount the G10? if not, i need heat sinks for the VRAM what do you guys recommend? also even though this card has a VRM heat spreader, should i still get heat sinks for it? i was planning on using the G10 with either a Corsair H55 or H75.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> Whats up guys?
> 
> So i have a EVGA GTX 780 Ti Kingpin Edition, and this card runs toasty! you would think for a $600 card they would at least include a Very decent stock cooler. anyway, in 20C ambient temps, im getting about 75C on the core. come summer, this is going to cause an issue. so i was looking at the G10 as a liable option. though i have a few questions first. my card has a VRAM and VRM heat spreader that currently is cooled passively by the fans that blow air through the cooler. So i know i can keep the VRM heat spreader on, but what about the VRAM heat spreader? would i be able to keep this on when i mount the G10? if not, i need heat sinks for the VRAM what do you guys recommend? also even though this card has a VRM heat spreader, should i still get heat sinks for it? i was planning on using the G10 with either a Corsair H55 or H75.


Heya!

Buy the G10 now on Tigerdirect.com, its only $10! Also, the H55 and H75 will both work, whichever you want to get and fits inside your chassis. I also recommend a 2nd fan for push/pull. Whatever size you get, 120 or 140, make sure it is a static pressure optimized fan. Also, you want to be sure to mount the fans so that they are exhausting heat out of your case.

You can keep the mid-plate on, this is the plate that passively cools the VRAM and VRMs. It is not required that you add additional heatsinks onto it, but it is encouraged because it is so inexpensive to do so and gives you extra peace of mind.

Here are the extras that I recommend you get:

VGA to PWM Adapter - $5. This allows you to plug your 92mm fan directly into your GPU instead of through a valuable motherboard fan header. You then control the fan speed through Afterburner. Make sure you set it to a constant RPM at or near 100%. NOT on a fan curve.

20pcs Aluminum Heatsinks - $6. This is optional, but highly recommended. They are very inexpensive, and give you that extra peace of mind for lower VRM and VRAM temperatures. Just clean the surface of the mid-plate before attaching these on.

Double Sided Sekisui Thermal Tape - $2.75. This is to attach the tiny aluminum heatsinks. The included tape on the heatsinks is low quality and doesn't adhere or conduct heat well. Clean the clean bottom of the heatsink and the mid-plate with isopropyl alcohol. Careful to not get any on the componentry.

If you don't already have some thermal paste, I recommend you buy some of your own. Mounting the G10 is not the easiest thing in the world, and if you are relying on just the included thermal paste, if you don't mount it properly the first time, you might be mounting it with messy paste the next time. Having your own high end TIM will help lower temperatures on both your CPU and GPU, as well as give you plenty of extra. Some good brands are: Noctua NT-H1, Arctic MX-4, Prolimatech PK-3, IC Diamond 7, and Gelid GC Extreme.


----------



## Quadrider10

awesome! thanks for the write up!


So here is my GPU. Just to clarify, i CAN mount the G10 with the cooler WITH BOTH heat spreaders (red metal plates) on the card, also what heat sinks should i buy to attach to the heat spreaders that will fit under the bracket?

i plan on doing some heavy overclocking with this setup both for benching and gaming.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I linked you all the extras you need in my first post, you have to click the links. I linked you the heatsinks, the thermal tape, and a VGA to PWM adapter so you can attach the 92mm fan to the GPU instead of a motherboard fan header.

Yes, you can mount heatsinks on top of the red midplate, i've done it myself. You can even have a backplate too if you thin down or remove the rubber backing on the G10's mount.

One thing I forgot to mention is that you will need a copper shim in order to keep the mid plate.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20763/thr-218/Pure_Copper_Thermal_Shim_-_20mm_x_20mm_x_08mm.html
you need to apply thermal paste to both sides, so make sure you have your own TIM.


----------



## Quadrider10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> awesome! thanks for the write up!
> 
> 
> So here is my GPU. Just to clarify, i CAN mount the G10 with the cooler WITH BOTH heat spreaders (red metal plates) on the card, also what heat sinks should i buy to attach to the heat spreaders that will fit under the bracket?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I linked you all the extras you need in my first post, you have to click the links. I linked you the heatsinks, the thermal tape, and a VGA to PWM adapter so you can attach the 92mm fan to the GPU instead of a motherboard fan header.
> 
> Yes, you can mount heatsinks on top of the red midplate, i've done it myself. You can even have a backplate too if you thin down or remove the rubber backing on the G10's mount.
> 
> One thing I forgot to mention is that you will need a copper shim in order to keep the mid plate.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20763/thr-218/Pure_Copper_Thermal_Shim_-_20mm_x_20mm_x_08mm.html
> you need to apply thermal paste to both sides, so make sure you have your own TIM.


yupp just figured that out lol. im going to follow this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo&index=6&list=WL

rite now, stock, my GPU is hitting 78C and VRMs are hitting 78C. what do you think the temp difference will be with H75 or H55 using the method i posted in the video? what were your temp differences? did the VRM heat sink taped on the heat spreader help at all?


----------



## stolikat

Guys will I be able to use the G10 with my cards backing plate? I have a Zotac 970 Amp Omega.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolikat*
> 
> Guys will I be able to use the G10 with my cards backing plate? I have a Zotac 970 Amp Omega.


Ihave yet to run into a gpu where the existing backplate can not be used with the G-10. I skipped the NXZT backplate on both my 770s and 970s. Just put the screws through the pcb and mount up. there are no metal contacts around the holes there to create a short issue.

If you really wanted to you could strip the foam pad off of the mini NZXT backplate if you just want to run it.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> yupp just figured that out lol. im going to follow this video:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo&index=6&list=WL
> 
> rite now, stock, my GPU is hitting 78C and VRMs are hitting 78C. what do you think the temp difference will be with H75 or H55 using the method i posted in the video? what were your temp differences? did the VRM heat sink taped on the heat spreader help at all?


That guide is nearly perfect. The only thing I would change is instead of using a pea method for the TIM on the bottom and top side of the copper shim, spread the TIM out. The mounting pressure is not perfect because there are multiple layers, so its best to spread the TIM out.
It should look like this:


A classified is a little bit more powerful of a GPU than my GTX 780 SC, so keep that in mind. Also, mine is able to do +100Mhz core, + 250Mhz Memory on stock voltage, so I have no additional voltage added for my overclock. I play at 1080p, so that makes a difference, if you play at 1440p, your temperatures will be a little bit higher.

I never exceed 49C on the Core. I use an X31 with two fans in push pull at 1500rpm. I also use a temperature probe on my Sentry3 to measure the VRMs, and I never exceed 54C on my VRMs. Adding the aluminum heatsinks does help by about 10-15C. I never measured a before and after with the heatsinks, but others in this forum have and 10-15C was the average temperature drop when adding heatsinks.

An H55 you will be around 55C, and an H75 you probably will be closer to 50C. Make sure you get two fans in push/pull and use some high end thermal paste. I highly recommend Gelid-GC Extreme. Its about $12.


----------



## Quadrider10

Sweet man! Thanks! I will order soon. I'm going to try without the heat sinks first and see what temps are. If they are too high I'll add them on.


----------



## 5erveD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> All of those will work, you could buy any of those and it will get the job done. I recommend the 10x10x14mm 10 pack ones. Just make sure to buy some Sekisui Thermal Tape or something else that is strong because those are copper, they are heavy and will not stick as well as aluminum. Make sure you clean the surface you are going to adhere them onto.
> 
> Since they only come in packs of 10, I recommend placing them like this:


Thanks again for the add. info.
Your like an G10 Wiki









Well, I orderd a couple of heatsinks.
After some diggin' I was able to find some alu heatsinks for much better prices.
I have got 30 small sinks in 3 different sizes.

Since you were posting a couple of good pictures of the pcb I am wondering where to put my sinks.
Could you show me the area where I am suppose to place all the sinks. Maybe not all 30 but I probebly am able to maximize the heat dispensation with al the different sizes.

I have been watching that vid that Quadrider10 posted. Spot on guid on how to install. Good for reference.
But am I able to keep the heatsink of the 980 ?
I understood that you went from the 770 to the 970 sc. Only I got the 980 sc
Did you encouter any problems with the heatsink.
I assume there is an heatsink tho. Never actually pulled an cooler off a videocard, simply, cos I never had to.

I also swapped out the fans. Got 2 Noctua NF-F12's and 1 NF-B9.
I hope it is silenced to the max !

Edit; Picture with Akasa thermale tape and various sizes alu heatsinks



8,8 x 8,8 x 5 mm
11 x 11 x 5 mm
14 x 14 x 6 mm


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> Thanks again for the add. info.
> Your like an G10 Wiki
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I orderd a couple of heatsinks.
> After some diggin' I was able to find some alu heatsinks for much better prices.
> I have got 30 small sinks in 3 different sizes.
> 
> Since you were posting a couple of good pictures of the pcb I am wondering where to put my sinks.
> Could you show me the area where I am suppose to place all the sinks. Maybe not all 30 but I probebly am able to maximize the heat dispensation with al the different sizes.
> 
> I have been watching that vid that Quadrider10 posted. Spot on guid on how to install. Good for reference.
> But am I able to keep the heatsink of the 980 ?
> I understood that you went from the 770 to the 970 sc. Only I got the 980 sc
> Did you encouter any problems with the heatsink.
> I assume there is an heatsink tho. Never actually pulled an cooler off a videocard, simply, cos I never had to.
> 
> I also swapped out the fans. Got 2 Noctua NF-F12's and 1 NF-B9.
> I hope it is silenced to the max !
> 
> Edit; Picture with Akasa thermale tape and various sizes alu heatsinks
> 
> 
> 
> 8,8 x 8,8 x 5 mm
> 11 x 11 x 5 mm
> 14 x 14 x 6 mm


What you are targeting with the extra heatsinks are the VRMs and the VRAM. Those are what he has indicated in that edited photo. Thos are really all that needs to be addressed if you just want to add them. Perhaps adding on to the back of the gpu.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> Thanks again for the add. info.
> Your like an G10 Wiki
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I orderd a couple of heatsinks.
> After some diggin' I was able to find some alu heatsinks for much better prices.
> I have got 30 small sinks in 3 different sizes.
> 
> Since you were posting a couple of good pictures of the pcb I am wondering where to put my sinks.
> Could you show me the area where I am suppose to place all the sinks. Maybe not all 30 but I probebly am able to maximize the heat dispensation with al the different sizes.
> 
> I have been watching that vid that Quadrider10 posted. Spot on guid on how to install. Good for reference.
> But am I able to keep the heatsink of the 980 ?
> I understood that you went from the 770 to the 970 sc. Only I got the 980 sc
> Did you encouter any problems with the heatsink.
> I assume there is an heatsink tho. Never actually pulled an cooler off a videocard, simply, cos I never had to.
> 
> I also swapped out the fans. Got 2 Noctua NF-F12's and 1 NF-B9.
> I hope it is silenced to the max !
> 
> Edit; Picture with Akasa thermale tape and various sizes alu heatsinks
> 
> 
> 
> 8,8 x 8,8 x 5 mm
> 11 x 11 x 5 mm
> 14 x 14 x 6 mm


You must be confusing me with someone else. I only have an EVGA GTX 780 SC that I did the G10 mod to. I've already showed you where to place the heatsinks in my photo. 30 is way too many. I think you went way overboard with the heatsinks and should return a lot of them. Use the smallest ones, they weigh the least and have the lowest chance of falling off while still dissipating a lot of heat. Yes. keep the mid-plate on your 980. Attach the heat sinks you bought on the included mid-plate. Clean the surface before attaching the heat sink.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Has anyone installed the G10 in a Corsair Air 240? I wonder if there will be any clearance issues since I'd need to swap cases if I go with the G10 for an ITX build. My current case only has room for one AIO. I am currently using the MSI 970 OC.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Has anyone installed the G10 in a Corsair Air 240? I wonder if there will be any clearance issues since I'd need to swap cases if I go with the G10 for an ITX build. My current case only has room for one AIO. I am currently using the MSI 970 OC.


Any photos of the area in question inside your case? Arent you running an AIO on your CPU?


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Any photos of the area in question inside your case? Arent you running an AIO on your CPU?


Right now I'm using a Cooler Master 130 which only had one spot for an AIO in the front of the case. I might be able to sneak one in on the HDD bracket to the right where I have a fan but that could be cutting it very close there.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Right now I'm using a Cooler Master 130 which only had one spot for an AIO in the front of the case. I might be able to sneak one in on the HDD bracket to the right where I have a fan but that could be cutting it very close there.


Wow, space is terribly limited in there. Is your CPU AIO radiator set to exhaust?


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Wow, space is terribly limited in there. Is your CPU AIO radiator set to exhaust?


I have it set as pulling in air from the outside, then the second fan I have pulling air in also to create positive air flow in the case.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> I have it set as pulling in air from the outside, then the second fan I have pulling air in also to create positive air flow in the case.


You definitely want the gpu radiator exhausting from the case. It will generate A LOT of heat. Perhaps you could stack the raidators with the gpu radiator on the outside and cpu on top all set to exhaust. The H-75 is pretty thin If i recall correctly. Just a thought. There has been more than one person that has tried stacking the radiators successfully.


----------



## chevy350

Here's my G10 on a ref Diamond 290x, modded to original plate to use the Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performer

20140621_123453.jpg 2230k .jpg file

Temps so far have been great compared to stock cooler with core staying around 55C in BF4 and VRM1 around 67C. Had the Gelid VRM1 sink on for a couple days and saw the mod to use the stock plate so went with that. Added some Fuji Poly ultra on the VRM's after I get the extended screw kit from NZXT and been running like a champ.


----------



## eaglesfan398

Am I the only one who has took their all in one water cooler and cut the tubes and mounted new tubes to attach it to one whole loop so my gpu is cooled by my own radiator?


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesfan398*
> 
> Am I the only one who has took their all in one water cooler and cut the tubes and mounted new tubes to attach it to one whole loop so my gpu is cooled by my own radiator?


Not so many people do that since CLCs aren't really designed with that in mind--an exception is Swiftech's X200 series that I can think of though.

And how can you not post pics ?


----------



## eaglesfan398

Ill see if I can find any since I just switched to a gpu block. But before it was mounted with the kraken and some intel cooler. I cut off the preexisting tube and opened up the pump and drilled out the internal pump since it was making a high pitch noise because my current pump was so much faster than the built in one. Then after i pulled out the pump i sealed it up and connected tube and it worked great. The only downside was it cause some restriction but wasn't too bad. Just had to used a different tube size.


----------



## 5erveD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You must be confusing me with someone else. I only have an EVGA GTX 780 SC that I did the G10 mod to. I've already showed you where to place the heatsinks in my photo. 30 is way too many. I think you went way overboard with the heatsinks and should return a lot of them. Use the smallest ones, they weigh the least and have the lowest chance of falling off while still dissipating a lot of heat. Yes. keep the mid-plate on your 980. Attach the heat sinks you bought on the included mid-plate. Clean the surface before attaching the heat sink.


I wasn't able to keep the mid plate due to the aio cooler. It simply doesn't fit.
Need to find a workaround for that one. I don't want to modify the plate.
Any suggestions for this ?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> I wasn't able to keep the mid plate due to the aio cooler. It simply doesn't fit.
> Need to find a workaround for that one. I don't want to modify the plate.
> Any suggestions for this ?


Did you buy the copper shim like I told you to? It also tells you to in the video. Are you keeping the backplate on with the card? If yes, then you need to thin out or remove the foam pad on the G10's mini backplate.


----------



## 5erveD

I didn't bought the copper shim. I can't recall that you told me. But maybe I am mistaken.
I gonna order the shim and remount the whole thing.
Thanks for pointing that out.

( edit I saw that you refered to the shim a couple of posts ago )


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> I didn't bought the copper shim. I can't recall that you told me. But maybe I am mistaken.
> I gonna order the shim and remount the whole thing.
> Thanks for pointing that out.
> 
> ( edit I saw that you refered to the shim a couple of posts ago )


The shim was mentioned at least twice by me, and again in the video you linked. You have to have a shim otherwise it won't work. Also, you need your own thermal paste so that you can apply it to both sides of the copper shim. If you don't have some thermal paste already, you will need to buy some.


----------



## MrFumbles91

http://www.overclock.net/t/1203636/official-amd-ati-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-red-mod/2720#post_23236163

Eureka!


----------



## 5erveD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The shim was mentioned at least twice by me, and again in the video you linked. You have to have a shim otherwise it won't work. Also, you need your own thermal paste so that you can apply it to both sides of the copper shim. If you don't have some thermal paste already, you will need to buy some.


I didn't fully understand that part, but do now.
Checking local shops for a copper plate.

Looking for a backplate to. The EVGA backplate.
Those are hard to come by.

I don't want to mod an EK backplate. But I think it wil work tho.
i'll keep you posted

EDIT:

Have been running some tests.
The card isn't getting hotter then 41° C after multiple runs of Firestrike.
With the acx 2.0 it was 65°/66° C.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> I didn't fully understand that part, but do now.
> Checking local shops for a copper plate.
> 
> Looking for a backplate to. The EVGA backplate.
> Those are hard to come by.
> 
> I don't want to mod an EK backplate. But I think it wil work tho.
> i'll keep you posted
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Have been running some tests.
> The card isn't getting hotter then 41° C after multiple runs of Firestrike.
> With the acx 2.0 it was 65°/66° C.


So you got it to work without the copper shim? Or did you remove the mid-plate? A backplate is optional, it is not necessary at all, its purely for aesthetics.


----------



## Mugamat

Just broke my Corsair H55 while modification. But Seidon 120v (CPU) survived. Here some fresh look of 120v.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Just ordered Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate. Going to test G10 with 360mm rad on my R9 290.


----------



## 5erveD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> So you got it to work without the copper shim? Or did you remove the mid-plate? A backplate is optional, it is not necessary at all, its purely for aesthetics.


Yes, got it to work without the midplate and copper shim.
Works like a charm !

Swapped out all the fans for noctua's. Also connected all the fans to the header on the card with a splitter and the adapter.
Now I am able to control all the fans in Afterburner/Precision X. Pump works on a molex.
But I am not sure If the vga header is able to power all 3 fans for longer time. So I probebly hook the rad fans up on a header on my mobo.

Waiting on the copper shim to install the midplate again. It takes about two weeks before it is in at my local shop. It would take two weeks aswell if I order it at frozencpu.
Maybe the local metalshop is able to deliver sooner.

Only did a quick test. Need to pull a allnighter to give some accurate details on the temps and stability.
But looks promising for now.
Did a small OC of 125 Mhz on the core clock without raising volts. It was still laughing at me at 1500 mhz.

I hope EVGA is getting the backplate in stock soon.

Again many thanks for the good advice and technical info.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> Yes, got it to work without the midplate and copper shim.
> Works like a charm !
> 
> Swapped out all the fans for noctua's. Also connected all the fans to the header on the card with a splitter and the adapter.
> Now I am able to control all the fans in Afterburner/Precision X. Pump works on a molex.
> But I am not sure If the vga header is able to power all 3 fans for longer time. So I probebly hook the rad fans up on a header on my mobo.
> 
> Waiting on the copper shim to install the midplate again. It takes about two weeks before it is in at my local shop. It would take two weeks aswell if I order it at frozencpu.
> Maybe the local metalshop is able to deliver sooner.
> 
> Only did a quick test. Need to pull a allnighter to give some accurate details on the temps and stability.
> But looks promising for now.
> Did a small OC of 125 Mhz on the core clock without raising volts. It was still laughing at me at 1500 mhz.
> 
> I hope EVGA is getting the backplate in stock soon.
> 
> Again many thanks for the good advice and technical info.


Dude.... you need to list to what people are telling you. I told you this and so does the guy in that video you shared.

DO NOT power 3 fans off of your GPU's fan header. Stop immediately. Plug them into your motherboard now.

Your 92mm Fan needs to be at 100% speed. The radiator fans don't need to be at 100% speed.

Plug just the 92mm fan into the GPU's fan header. Set it to 100% in Afterburner.

Plug the radiator fans into the motherboard, set them between 50-100%, whatever you like the most.


----------



## 5erveD

I dont want to be spoiler but in the vid description he stated otherwise.
Quote:


> I also wanted to be able to use the PWM fan header on the graphics card to be able to control the cooling fans, both GPU and VRM. I also installed a Gelid VGA fan adapter http://amzn.to/VgmaQm which allows the connection of standard 4-pin PWM fans. I then used a PWM splitter power connector http://amzn.to/1ppv0XW to be able to connect all three cooling fans that I was using to the graphics card fan header.]


It is installed to the mobo.
It was for quick install since I am missing some parts


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> I dont want to be spoiler but in the vid description he stated otherwise.
> It is installed to the mobo.
> It was for quick install since I am missing some parts


Go ahead and risk blowing out your GPU fan header.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Go ahead and risk blowing out your GPU fan header.


GPU fan headers are multiples more powerful then mobo headers. Close to double.

They can push enough to power multiple fans...those reference blowers are crazy high power draw, much more then a couple 120mm's would draw.


----------



## Puck

(delete, dbl post)


----------



## MrFumbles91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugamat*
> 
> Just broke my Corsair H55 while modification. But Seidon 120v (CPU) survived. Here some fresh look of 120v.


Broke how? Have plenty of AIO replacement parts if you need. Send me a PM


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> GPU fan headers are multiples more powerful then mobo headers. Close to double.
> 
> They can push enough to power multiple fans...those reference blowers are crazy high power draw, much more then a couple 120mm's would draw.


There have been multiple people on this thread, and on LTT who have done this and blown out their fan headers. The fans on reference heatsinks are tiny 90 or 92mm fans that draw less power than your standard 120/140mm fan.

It is absolutely not recommended.


----------



## Vendari

I strongly suggest not hooking up more than one fan to a gpu fan header, ESPECIALLY if they're high-performance fans. Most GPU fan headers can only handle up to 0.25 AMPs max


----------



## 5erveD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Go ahead and risk blowing out your GPU fan header.


I appreciate your concern. But it is gonna be allright _coz_ they are on the mobo.

If I inspect the ACX cooler I see that the vga cable consist of 2 wires actually 8 but 2 for 2 fans.
So in theory it should be enough for 2 x 92 mm fans IF they draw the same (or less) amount of power.

I hope you fully understand that I am not willing to take that risk on a € 580+ card.

Thanks again for the info.


----------



## Trondster

I use a three-way PWM fan splitter, powered by a molex connector (made by Akasa). Thus I can run all three fans (92mm VRM cooler + 2x 120mm rad fans) controlled by the card fan header, without any risk of burning out said header.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Go ahead and risk blowing out your GPU fan header.


Note: The fan splitter linked to above has a molex power connector - only the PWM wire should be split out to the fans - just like on my own fan splitter.
@5serveD - is your fan splitter like that too?


----------



## 5erveD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Note: The fan splitter linked to above has a molex power connector - only the PWM wire should be split out to the fans - just like on my own fan splitter.
> @5serveD - is your fan splitter like that too?


It is a splitter which came with the Noctua's. It is not a molex powered splitter.
A molex powered splitter would relief the strain on the card header.

I like that solution. It gives me joy being able to control the fans through Afterburner.
Thanks for sharing

Gelid:


Akasa:


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Hey guys,

Just wondering....I have a situation where I'm putting a G10 +H55 on ONE of my R9 290's. I have 2 in crossfire. The plan is to do the G10 mod on my hotter card (the Gigabyte WF OC), and leave my other card alone (Sapphire Tri-x R9 290), since it is cooler and will go on the bottom slot.

My dilemma is that I don't know what to do with the 92mm fan from the G10. Where do I plug it into? If I get the PWM Adaptor Cable from Gelid that everyone has then I have to set a 100% fan curve for that fan, but if I do that won't that set my Tri-x to 100% aswell? How do I set the 92mm fan to run at 100% by itself?

My second question is where I should plug the pump into for the H55. People have said to plug it into the PSU using a 3-pin to molex connector to ensure a constant 12V feed? If I don't have this connector would plugging it into the Mobo be ok? How about the 120mm fan for the rad? Where does that go?

Sorry for all the questions! This owner's club is awesome!


----------



## Trondster

To get the 92mm running at 100% - put it in a motherboard fan header with no PWM control - do that with both the 92mm fan and the pump, if possible.
Get a VGA fan header to "ordinary" fan header adapter, and plug the 120mm fan into that - then the graphic card will be able to control the H55 fan speed.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Jsmooth
@Trondster

Trondster's idea is the best. Buy a Y splitter($4) and plug the 92mm fan and pump into the splitter, and the splitter into the motherboard. Set that fan header for 100%.

Then buy the VGA to PWM adapter that everyone recommends and plug the 120mm radiator fan into it and control it with a fan curve.

The only problem I see with this is that you wont be able to add in a second 120mm fan to be powered through the GPU.


----------



## Trondster

...If you want more fans for the radiator - buy a molex powered splitter and hook the radiator fans to that.


----------



## Puck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> There have been multiple people on this thread, and on LTT who have done this and blown out their fan headers. The fans on reference heatsinks are tiny 90 or 92mm fans that draw less power than your standard 120/140mm fan.
> 
> It is absolutely not recommended.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vendari*
> 
> I strongly suggest not hooking up more than one fan to a gpu fan header, ESPECIALLY if they're high-performance fans. Most GPU fan headers can only handle up to 0.25 AMPs max


Most *motherboard* fan headers are only .5-1a max because they are made for standard case fans. Many reference GPU blowers are closer to 2A though. You can run 3 high performance 120mms off that with room to spare. Heck, an off the shelf Arctic Accelero has three 2000RPM 92mms @ .12A each on it and plugs right into the stock fan header. That's .36a right there from a certified cooler that you can buy for almost any GPU.

I'm not recommending it without knowing what you are doing and making sure you know the amp draw of the fans you want to use, but to act like it will instantly fry a poor tiny GPU fan header is incorrect. Just simply check the label on the fan the GPU came with and see its amp rating. I have two butchered stock 7970 coolers right here with factory *1.7A* fans on them. Thats enough to run TWO 38mm thick 3k RPM Ultra Kaze fans with enough amp ceiling to throw a couple standard 25mm 120's on as well.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puck*
> 
> Most *motherboard* fan headers are only .5-1a max because they are made for standard case fans. Many reference GPU blowers are closer to 2A though. You can run 3 high performance 120mms off that with room to spare. Heck, an off the shelf Arctic Accelero has three 2000RPM 92mms @ .12A each on it and plugs right into the stock fan header. That's .36a right there from a certified cooler that you can buy for almost any GPU.
> 
> I'm not recommending it without knowing what you are doing and making sure you know the amp draw of the fans you want to use, but to act like it will instantly fry a poor tiny GPU fan header is incorrect. Just simply check the label on the fan the GPU came with and see its amp rating. I have two butchered stock 7970 coolers right here with factory *1.7A* fans on them. Thats enough to run TWO 38mm thick 3k RPM Ultra Kaze fans with enough amp ceiling to throw a couple standard 25mm 120's on as well.


No, it doesn't instantly fry the header, it happens over time. ~6 months to be more precise. I will try and find the thread of the person it happened to on LTT, and somewhere in this thread it happened to someone.


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> To get the 92mm running at 100% - put it in a motherboard fan header with no PWM control - do that with both the 92mm fan and the pump, if possible.
> Get a VGA fan header to "ordinary" fan header adapter, and plug the 120mm fan into that - then the graphic card will be able to control the H55 fan speed.


@pinkothecommi

Thanks for your help! My only remaining question relates to afterburner. So if I let the gpu control the 120mm fan on the H55, won't there be a huge disparity between temps for my modded g10 card and my unmodded sapphire tri-x 290? If that's the case won't my tri-x's fans not spin fast enough or too slow since AB is Applying the same fan curve to both cards? Or does AB apply the same fan curve to both GPU's separately, allowing independent fan speeds? Sorry for all the noob questions!


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Jsmooth
> @Trondster
> 
> Trondster's idea is the best. Buy a Y splitter($4) and plug the 92mm fan and pump into the splitter, and the splitter into the motherboard. Set that fan header for 100%.
> 
> Then buy the VGA to PWM adapter that everyone recommends and plug the 120mm radiator fan into it and control it with a fan curve.
> 
> The only problem I see with this is that you wont be able to add in a second 120mm fan to be powered through the GPU.


I'll most definitely plug the 92mm fan into the motherboard, but will the pump burn out the header on the mobo? Grabbing the 3-pin to 4-pin molex and then plugging that into the PSU sounds like it may be better since the pump on the H55 isn't PWM right? Do most people have the pump on 100% constantly?


----------



## Quadrider10

What's up guys?

So I'm getting ready to cool my 780ti kingpin, I'm deciding between 3 coolers with the G10. H55, H70, oorH90? I'm shooting for the H55 cause it's cheaper. I was looking at the H90 cause it was 140mm rad and I have the space for it. Anyway, which cooler should I go for?


----------



## Vendari

if you have space for a 140mm rad then go for it. although there isn't a huge difference between the 2 in terms of performance, there will be a significant reduction of noise with a 14cm fan as upposed to a 12cm fan.







Also, the thicker the rad the better. You can also add one of these in the future>http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=82&lng=en&set=1... They are relatively quiet at max speed compared to other fans at the same RPM but since it's PWM, you can make a custom fan curve.


----------



## bernieyee

Hi, what kind of temperatures is everyone getting with a H55 on a 290X?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> @pinkothecommi
> 
> Thanks for your help! My only remaining question relates to afterburner. So if I let the gpu control the 120mm fan on the H55, won't there be a huge disparity between temps for my modded g10 card and my unmodded sapphire tri-x 290? If that's the case won't my tri-x's fans not spin fast enough or too slow since AB is Applying the same fan curve to both cards? Or does AB apply the same fan curve to both GPU's separately, allowing independent fan speeds? Sorry for all the noob questions!


Im not too familiar with SLI cards in AB, so I cant sayfor certain. Just set a more aggressive fan curve than you normally would. Yes, set your pump to full speed, that is how it is meant to be run.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> Hi, what kind of temperatures is everyone getting with a H55 on a 290X?


55-60C


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> What's up guys?
> 
> So I'm getting ready to cool my 780ti kingpin, I'm deciding between 3 coolers with the G10. H55, H70, oorH90? I'm shooting for the H55 cause it's cheaper. I was looking at the H90 cause it was 140mm rad and I have the space for it. Anyway, which cooler should I go for?


Cant go wrong with any of those, after the H55 you experience diminishing returns performance wise. A 140mm AIO might only get you 2-3C better temps, but it will be more quiet.


----------



## Quadrider10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Cant go wrong with any of those, after the H55 you experience diminishing returns performance wise. A 140mm AIO might only get you 2-3C better temps, but it will be more quiet.


even when 1.5V are pumping through it?


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Im not too familiar with SLI cards in AB, so I cant sayfor certain. Just set a more aggressive fan curve than you normally would. Yes, set your pump to full speed, that is how it is meant to be run.


Pinko never knew you were "Faceman" over at LTT. You answered my questions twice! Champ


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> @pinkothecommi
> 
> Thanks for your help! My only remaining question relates to afterburner. So if I let the gpu control the 120mm fan on the H55, won't there be a huge disparity between temps for my modded g10 card and my unmodded sapphire tri-x 290? If that's the case won't my tri-x's fans not spin fast enough or too slow since AB is Applying the same fan curve to both cards? Or does AB apply the same fan curve to both GPU's separately, allowing independent fan speeds? Sorry for all the noob questions!


Im not too familiar with SLI cards in AB, so I cant sayfor certain. Just set a more aggressive fan curve than you normally would. Yes, set your pump to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> Pinko never knew you were "Faceman" over at LTT. You answered my questions twice! Champ


I do my best to help out!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> even when 1.5V are pumping through it?


Definitely when higher voltages are used, the 140mm will start to really show a big difference, if you're aiming for really high OCs, by all means, go for the 140mm. For those of us not trying to push past the +62mV threshhold, the difference was minimal. There are guys with X61s only getting 8-9C better temperatures then people with H55s on the same GPU, talk about diminishing returns! I'm not dissuading anyone from buying a bigger AIO for their G10, just making people aware how drastically the performance starts to diminish with the bigger AIOs.


----------



## Quadrider10

Ok, I'm thinking just the H55 will suffice. Thanks a lot man!


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> Ok, I'm thinking just the H55 will suffice. Thanks a lot man!


I'm now running an overclocked R9 290 with the H55. It'll be fine with your 780Ti.


----------



## MEC-777

Finally got around to converting my new GPU over to the Kraken. I must say, the HIS R9 290 is a fairly well-built card. The cooler and heat pipe array is just massive which contributed to the decent temps and respectable noise levels.

*The GPU:*

As you can see, big fin array and lots of heat pipes (this ain't no EVGA 970







) to help pull all the heat from the big Hawaii die. Really well-made cooler, and if I didn't already own the G10 and H55, I'd be happy with running the stock cooler.





On the card itself there's a big aluminum heatsink/plate covering all the Vram modules, plus a robust heat spreader for the VRMs.



*Installation:*

Had already done this once before with the 7950, so it was more just time-consuming than anything. Upon test-fitting the H55 and G10 bracket, I found that no die-shims or longer bolts were necessary.










Here are the "secret screws" I use to mount the two rads with the fan in between.










It's a bit of a tedious process...








*Final Setup:*

And a few hours later... it's all done, back up and running!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Very cool and innovative!

What kind of temps are you getting with one radiator blowing into the other? You have the CPU's Rad blowing into the GPU's rad, right?


----------



## curly haired boy

packed in tightly!


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Finally got around to converting my new GPU over to the Kraken. I must say, the HIS R9 290 is a fairly well-built card. The cooler and heat pipe array is just massive which contributed to the decent temps and respectable noise levels.


What are your temps like? I considered this but have heard its not actually that good in the long run due to the amount of heat that is produced by the GPU rad and in a case like mine where there is only room for one fan it won't move any of the heat out.

My G10 comes today from Amazon, but my VGA to PWM adapter is coming tomorrow from FrozenCPU. Can I still set this up so it can run as I'd like to test it and then I'll add the adapter tomorrow?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very cool and innovative!
> 
> What kind of temps are you getting with one radiator blowing into the other? You have the CPU's Rad blowing into the GPU's rad, right?


Thanks.







I just wish I could figure out why I lost all displays and why it will not POST now...







(more on that in a moment)

Yes, CPU rad, then GPU rad. The CPU rad barely even gets warm, where as the GPU rad will actually get pretty hot. Temps from when I had this setup 3-4 months ago with the 7950 were about 20 degrees lower at full load vs. stock coolers (on both CPU and GPU), so I'm expecting similar results with the R9 290.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> What are your temps like? I considered this but have heard its not actually that good in the long run due to the amount of heat that is produced by the GPU rad and in a case like mine where there is only room for one fan it won't move any of the heat out.
> 
> My G10 comes today from Amazon, but my VGA to PWM adapter is coming tomorrow from FrozenCPU. Can I still set this up so it can run as I'd like to test it and then I'll add the adapter tomorrow?


Temps are really good, so I don't see why it would be an issue for long-term use.

I'm not sure which case you have or which adapter you referring to, but as long as you have the CPU rad ahead of the GPU rad, it does work. It helps to have 3 fans on it though - intake, middle and exhaust. Or push-push-pull.









Now, I had this thing up and running just fine last night. Started running some Firestrike benchmarks this morning and both displays went black (went into sleep mode) and it just sat. I eventually hit the power button to restart and now it will power up but the system will not POST and I get no displays (they stay in sleep mode). I pulled the GPU from the PCIe slot and pulled it's power cables and connected the displays up to the Intel onboard graphics - it starts up no problem and goes right to the desktop, and both displays wake up as they should.

I just simply don't understand what's going on. How could installing the G10 cause this? I have double and triple checked everything, the 4 water block screws are not too tight nor loose. Temps before it cut out were max 59 degrees while testing so I know it was working just fine. I had also put the GPU back to it's stock clocks, so this wasn't due to an unstable OC.

This is similar to what happened to my 7950 only it showed signs of death before the G10. Anybody have any ideas how to troubleshoot this? I'm pulling my hair out in frustration...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wish I could figure out why I lost all displays and why it will not POST now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (more on that in a moment)
> 
> Yes, CPU rad, then GPU rad. The CPU rad barely even gets warm, where as the GPU rad will actually get pretty hot. Temps from when I had this setup 3-4 months ago with the 7950 were about 20 degrees lower at full load vs. stock coolers (on both CPU and GPU), so I'm expecting similar results with the R9 290.
> 
> Temps are really good, so I don't see why it would be an issue for long-term use.
> 
> I'm not sure which case you have or which adapter you referring to, but as long as you have the CPU rad ahead of the GPU rad, it does work. It helps to have 3 fans on it though - intake, middle and exhaust. Or push-push-pull.


I have seen several people stack the radiators now. I would think the magic to keeping this effective would be regular cleaning.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wish I could figure out why I lost all displays and why it will not POST now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (more on that in a moment)
> 
> Yes, CPU rad, then GPU rad. The CPU rad barely even gets warm, where as the GPU rad will actually get pretty hot. Temps from when I had this setup 3-4 months ago with the 7950 were about 20 degrees lower at full load vs. stock coolers (on both CPU and GPU), so I'm expecting similar results with the R9 290.
> 
> Temps are really good, so I don't see why it would be an issue for long-term use.
> 
> I'm not sure which case you have or which adapter you referring to, but as long as you have the CPU rad ahead of the GPU rad, it does work. It helps to have 3 fans on it though - intake, middle and exhaust. Or push-push-pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I had this thing up and running just fine last night. Started running some Firestrike benchmarks this morning and both displays went black (went into sleep mode) and it just sat. I eventually hit the power button to restart and now it will power up but the system will not POST and I get no displays (they stay in sleep mode). I pulled the GPU from the PCIe slot and pulled it's power cables and connected the displays up to the Intel onboard graphics - it starts up no problem and goes right to the desktop, and both displays wake up as they should.
> 
> I just simply don't understand what's going on. How could installing the G10 cause this? I have double and triple checked everything, the 4 water block screws are not too tight nor loose. Temps before it cut out were max 59 degrees while testing so I know it was working just fine. I had also put the GPU back to it's stock clocks, so this wasn't due to an unstable OC.
> 
> This is similar to what happened to my 7950 only it showed signs of death before the G10. Anybody have any ideas how to troubleshoot this? I'm pulling my hair out in frustration...


I have a Cooler Master 130, which only has room for one fan if you start to stack radiators so no other air can really be moved out of the case. I also have a Corsair Air 240 on the way today which should give me a bit more room to work with.

Did you use the G10 on the 7950 with double stacked rads?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> I have a Cooler Master 130, which only has room for one fan if you start to stack radiators so no other air can really be moved out of the case. I also have a Corsair Air 240 on the way today which should give me a bit more room to work with.
> 
> Did you use the G10 on the 7950 with double stacked rads?


The CM 130 - yeah, you probably won't have room to stack rads like this and like you said, it'll exhaust the hot air inside the case which you won't want. The Air 240 will definitely give you tons of room for lots of rads and you won't have to stack them either.









Yes, I had this same setup with the 7950.

I've now run into a strange problem where the computer won't POST (powers on but no gives display) with the G10 installed on the R9 290. Really odd and doesn't make must sense. Trying to figure out what's going on right now. If anyone has any ideas, feel free to share.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> The CM 130 - yeah, you probably won't have room to stack rads like this and like you said, it'll exhaust the hot air inside the case which you won't want. The Air 240 will definitely give you tons of room for lots of rads and you won't have to stack them either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I had this same setup with the 7950.
> 
> I've now run into a strange problem where the computer won't POST (powers on but no gives display) with the G10 installed on the R9 290. Really odd and doesn't make must sense. Trying to figure out what's going on right now. If anyone has any ideas, feel free to share.


Try reinstalling the stock cooler/heatsink and see if it works then.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Try reinstalling the stock cooler/heatsink and see if it works then.


I tried that. Still nothing.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I tried that. Still nothing.


Have you tried the gpu in another machine?


----------



## Harry604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Cant go wrong with any of those, after the H55 you experience diminishing returns performance wise. A 140mm AIO might only get you 2-3C better temps, but it will be more quiet.


actually it gets better

i have a antec 620 hooked up to a ex360 rad and gaming my temps dont go over 45c thats with 100mv extra on a 290x


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Have you tried the gpu in another machine?


I haven't and I don't have another machine I could try it in.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> actually it gets better
> 
> i have a antec 620 hooked up to a ex360 rad and gaming my temps dont go over 45c thats with 100mv extra on a 290x


Agreed. Double thick 120 Rads such as the H80 or Asetek 570LC will see 4-6C drops overall.
Not sure where Pinko getting his info from


----------



## CaptainZombie

I finally got the G10 up and running in my new case with a H75. The install was a bit of a PITA since the instructions were not that great.

Here are a few pics for now, I'll have to stop at Microcenter tomorrow to pick up a few more cables.





I am thinking of actually placing an AF120 right in front of the PCI-e slot where the MSI 970 is at, this way I can blow a ton of cold air right into GPU. I do have room for one more fan there which you can see in the second picture and it would be in front of my AIO.

I am waiting for FrozenCPU to receive the backplate for my card, I'd like to add that for some extra support now that the cooler is not on there anymore.

The NZXT fan is not bad, would you guys recommend going with a Noctua fan or anything else? If I did go with Noctua, which 92mm fan would be good to go with?


----------



## bernieyee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> Took PinkoTheCommi's advice and plugged the pump directly to the PSU as well as reseating the pump with a lighter and more evenly distributed layer of thermal paste.
> 
> Before:
> Unigine Valley at 1.000v and 650/1000 = 55 degrees
> Unigine Valley at 1.200v and 1080/1550 = 70 degrees
> 
> After:
> Unigine Valley at 1.000v and 650/1000 = 40 degrees
> Unigine Valley at 1.200v and 1080/1550 = 50 degrees
> 
> Absolutely perfect!
> 
> Much lower temps all around.. and much less noise compared to the XFX DD heatsink (the fans whined at certain RPMs).
> 
> Thanks guys.


Hi guys,

Having some troubles.. I reseated my cooler since I repainted a part of my shroud.

First couple of times, my H55 wasn't making correct contact with the die. Temperatures skyrocketed quickly when I tested with Unigine.

Now I've got the contact down, but temperatures are still roughly around 8 degrees higher than they were before.. I think it's a contact issue as I've tried to reseat it a total of several times now, but I'm so perplexed at why I can't get the same temperatures I was getting before. I don't think it's the ambient temperature because my i5-4590 idles at 28-29..

Only difference this time around is that I'm using Arctic Silver 5 versus Arctic Cooling 5, which wouldn't make such a drastic change.

280x + H55 at 60 degrees after 15 minutes of Unigine Valley. Idling at 33-34 degrees instead of 28. Is this something to worry about? 60 degrees is still not bad.. but I would like to get it perfect. The frustrating part is the constant reseating, and all the cabling and screwing that I have to do.

What do you suggest?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking of actually placing an AF120 right in front of the PCI-e slot where the MSI 970 is at, this way I can blow a ton of cold air right into GPU. I do have room for one more fan there which you can see in the second picture and it would be in front of my AIO.
> 
> I am waiting for FrozenCPU to receive the backplate for my card, I'd like to add that for some extra support now that the cooler is not on there anymore.
> 
> The NZXT fan is not bad, would you guys recommend going with a Noctua fan or anything else? If I did go with Noctua, which 92mm fan would be good to go with?


That fan would blow right on the vrms yes? That would be perfect.

I did swap to Nanoxia deep silence fans and they are quieter and have better performance as well. I have a love hate relationship with Noctua. But I had no "need" to swap the fan on the G-10, though the fan that comes with it is ugly IMO, it is a good fan and rns quietly and performs efficiently, again IMO.

And for gods sake man, wipe those fingerprints off the top of the G-10


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> That fan would blow right on the vrms yes? That would be perfect.
> 
> I did swap to Nanoxia deep silence fans and they are quieter and have better performance as well. I have a love hate relationship with Noctua. But I had no "need" to swap the fan on the G-10, though the fan that comes with it is ugly IMO, it is a good fan and rns quietly and performs efficiently, again IMO.


I'll go ahead and add that AF120 to the side, I just need to order a fan controller now since I am up to 4 fans in this case.

The way I set things up in my case is on the right side the H60 is pulling air in, in the front there is an AF120 blowing air into the case, then next to that is the H75 which is exhausting and then the fan I add will be an AF120 that will blow air over the GPU.

I'll just need to order one of those fan controllers we were talking about.

My H75 is making some gurgling/running water sounds, in the Hydro Club thread they told me there could be bubbles in it. What is the best way to try and get those out?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Having some troubles.. I reseated my cooler since I repainted a part of my shroud.
> 
> First couple of times, my H55 wasn't making correct contact with the die. Temperatures skyrocketed quickly when I tested with Unigine.
> 
> Now I've got the contact down, but temperatures are still roughly around 8 degrees higher than they were before.. I think it's a contact issue as I've tried to reseat it a total of several times now, but I'm so perplexed at why I can't get the same temperatures I was getting before. I don't think it's the ambient temperature because my i5-4590 idles at 28-29..
> 
> Only difference this time around is that I'm using Arctic Silver 5 versus Arctic Cooling 5, which wouldn't make such a drastic change.
> 
> 280x + H55 at 60 degrees after 15 minutes of Unigine Valley. Idling at 33-34 degrees instead of 28. Is this something to worry about? 60 degrees is still not bad.. but I would like to get it perfect. The frustrating part is the constant reseating, and all the cabling and screwing that I have to do.
> 
> What do you suggest?


Have you changed the fan speed on the rad since your previous testing?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*


Just a quick but important suggestion; you should mount the GPU rad as an exhaust because it's going to put off a lot of hot air. With the CPU rad, it's not as important which way because it'll barely warm up at most.

I would have the CPU rad as an intake at the front and the GPU rad as an exhaust at the top or back. Might have to get creative with the hose routing but you'll have much better interior case temps.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Just a quick but important suggestion; you should mount the GPU rad as an exhaust because it's going to put off a lot of hot air. With the CPU rad, it's not as important which way because it'll barely warm up at most.


My GPU fan is set as an exhaust, hot air was coming out from the front of the case. Thanks


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> My GPU fan is set as an exhaust, hot air was coming out from the front of the case. Thanks


Ah, ok, good.









For more efficient cooling, you should think about the overall air flow through your case. Right now it looks like you have one fan at the front as an intake and the rad fan below it as exhaust, correct? This is going to cause some turbulence just inside the front of the case and your CPU rad (which is also exhausting?) and VRM fan on the G10 may be a little starved of fresh air. The best way to get efficient cooling and ensure sufficient fresh air gets to all your components is to have the air flow through your case all in the same direction. Generally speaking, in through the front/bottom and out through the back/top. This way there will be minimal turbulence and nothing will be starved of fresh clean air. Air moves better if it's moving as a "column" (all in one general direction) as that gives it momentum (fans don't have to work as hard).

You also want to have slightly positive air pressure inside the case as that will help keep the dust accumulation down and keep inside case temps a bit lower. Right now you have one intake fan and two rad fans as exhausts, so you have slight negative pressure.

Here's what I would suggest; mount the CPU and GPU rads as exhausts at the back and top (which ever way they fit best) and have two(2) 120mm intake fans at the front as well as an additional 120mm intake fan at the bottom to feed fresh cool air to the VRM fan on the G10. That would give you slight positive pressure and ensure sufficient fresh air supply to all components with minimal dust build up.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Ah, ok, good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For more efficient cooling, you should think about the overall air flow through your case. Right now it looks like you have one fan at the front as an intake and the rad fan below it as exhaust, correct? This is going to cause some turbulence just inside the front of the case and your CPU rad (which is also exhausting?) and VRM fan on the G10 may be a little starved of fresh air. The best way to get efficient cooling and ensure sufficient fresh air gets to all your components is to have the air flow through your case all in the same direction. Generally speaking, in through the front/bottom and out through the back/top. This way there will be minimal turbulence and nothing will be starved of fresh clean air. Air moves better if it's moving as a "column" (all in one general direction) as that gives it momentum (fans don't have to work as hard).
> 
> You also want to have slightly positive air pressure inside the case as that will help keep the dust accumulation down and keep inside case temps a bit lower. Right now you have one intake fan and two rad fans as exhausts, so you have slight negative pressure.
> 
> Here's what I would suggest; mount the CPU and GPU rads as exhausts at the back and top (which ever way they fit best) and have two(2) 120mm intake fans at the front as well as an additional 120mm intake fan at the bottom to feed fresh cool air to the VRM fan on the G10. That would give you slight positive pressure and ensure sufficient fresh air supply to all components with minimal dust build up.


This is how my setup is with the fans:

Cpu rad to the right is set as an intake.
Af120 next to that is also set as an intake.
GPU rad next to it is set as an exhaust.
I plan to add one more fan in front of the GPU to the left as an intake.

I really have just one fan exhausting in the whole case.

I'm not getting any turbulence after some of my testing yest, but it looks like I need to pull the H75 out and juggle it around to get some air bubbles out as it's causing gurgling noises.

I'm a believer of positive air pressure, but due to the GPU having to exhaust it's the only thing preventing me from fully accomplishing that.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> I
> 
> My H75 is making some gurgling/running water sounds, in the Hydro Club thread they told me there could be bubbles in it. What is the best way to try and get those out?


They will go away as the fluid expands. This is actually pretty common when putting AIOs back into service that have been on the shelf awhile. My H-90s were shelved maybe 1.5 months and they did thats for a few hours then went quiet.


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Hey guys,

Quick question - I've got my H55 and G10 set for my r9-290. Gonna plug the h55 into the psu directly for power so I've grabbed a 3-pin to molex connector. I've then got a couple of molex to 6-pin psu leads, which I intend to plug the 3-pin to molex into.

Will this give the pump a good 12V to run constantly?


----------



## bernieyee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Have you changed the fan speed on the rad since your previous testing?


Nope.. still 1300RPM like last time.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Quick question - I've got my H55 and G10 set for my r9-290. Gonna plug the h55 into the psu directly for power so I've grabbed a 3-pin to molex connector. I've then got a couple of molex to 6-pin psu leads, which I intend to plug the 3-pin to molex into.
> 
> Will this give the pump a good 12V to run constantly?


Yup


----------



## Latezen

Hello guys.

Im looking to get NZXT G10 and Corsair H55 for my GTX 780DCII.

Does it bolt on without any mods or do i need to order some heatsinks?

Thanks


----------



## Trondster

Hi, all - here is my build log, fitting a G10 with a Corsair H75 to an Asus DirectCU II OC R9 290X.









As I wrote earlier, I had problems fitting the H75, as the thumb nuts on the G10 were too close to the shroud on the H75, but after a slight trim with a sharp knife, it fit like a charm.









To cool it, I bought 16 of the standard recommended copper heat sinks. I removed the existing thermal tape and replaced it with Akasa thermal tape, to make sure they won't fall off. I wasn't too thrilled with the heat sink quality - the heat sinks are 13x12mm, but as the edges slope, the more or less flat center area is only about 9x10mm. But - that didn't matter at all - the extra VRAM cooling is only nice to have.
 
..I haven't bothered with any VRM2 cooling (upper left) - it is the row of VRM1 chips (beneath the heat sink barely seen to the right) that run hot.









I removed the backplate, and added three layers of 1mm thermal foam under the VRAM and VRM area, to transfer heat from the VRM and VRAM chips to the backplate. The gap between the backplate and board was between 2.1 and 2.6mm in various positions, and so I had ordered two thermal pads - one 1mm and one 1.5mm, planning to sandwich one of each. Unfortunately, both pads I received were 1mm thick, so I settled for three layers of 1mm.


The main VRMs are already covered by a heat sink with a thermal pad, but I had to remove the heat sink when removing the backplate.
I then saw from the imprint that the existing 1.5mm thermal pad wasn't fully in contact with all the VRM chips:


And thus I replaced it with 2x1mm thermal pads, and screwed it on tightly. Unfortunately, I messed up, putting the heat sink the wrong way, and I had to reattach it, aligning it properly. But - I could see that all the VRM chips now clearly were in contact with the thermal pad.










I also added a large 10x4cm heat sink to the back of the backplate attached with thermal tape, covering the area underneath the VRMs - after all, the VRM chips get really, really hot.


The G10 back bracket fit well with the backplate - the lock nuts fit nicely in the existing recesses in the backplate. I decided not to remove the foam from the G10 back bracket, and just mounted it upside down.








 

It was time to fit the H75.










The assembled G10.










I used a 92mm BeQuiet Shadow Wings for the VRM cooling, and have mounted two Akasa Apache 120mm fans for the H75 - one inside the case and one on the outside (it is a very tight fit).
I have mounted a Molex powered three way PWM splitter for the 92mm fan and the two radiator fans (with a GPU fan header adapter) - all three now controlled by the graphics card fan header.

The stock cooler ran the card very hot - after a prolonged session of Unigine Haven (1920x1200/Ultra/Extreme/8x) with the card at 1090/1450 the card slightly throttled, and I recorded temps of 92-94°C on the GPU and 102/82°C on the VRM1/VRM2.

After fitting the cooler I wasn't able to overclock the card any further, even with increased voltages - with increased voltage I could get it stable in Haven, but it consistently crashed in 3DMark. (Always in the same spot, in Ice Storm; in the Demo where the red cannon ship had just detached from the larger red ship.)

But - the card ran a lot cooler at 1090/1450 - at 100% fan speed it is running prolonged Unigine Haven at 58°C, with VRM1/VRM2 at a low 55/51°C, with only a low noise level.
With a fan speed to about 50%, and my 20cm side fan at the lowest setting, the machine is barely inaudible, with only slightly increased temperatures; the GPU is at 64°C and VRM1/VRM2 at 66/61°C. And - throttling is in deed a thing of the past.








Maybe I'd get even better cooling with the stock fans at full tilt, but the ones I have installed cool a lot at very low noise levels...


----------



## Ultisym

Well, you did a lot of work. Will give you A for effort there. Numbers look good, so sounds like another success story. The two "VRM2" you did not cool are for memory most likely BTW. Those dont get to hot, in my experience anyway.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Is the Noctua NF-B9 a decent fan to place on the G10 bracket? I don't care too much for the NZXT fan that comes with the G10 and would like to have something even quieter. Ultisym recommended the nonoxia fan, but that green I'm kind of meh on. LOL!


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Is the Noctua NF-B9 a decent fan to place on the G10 bracket? I don't care too much for the NZXT fan that comes with the G10 and would like to have something even quieter. Ultisym recommended the nonoxia fan, but that green I'm kind of meh on. LOL!


I found the fan that comes with the G10 to be nearly inaudible even at 100%. It's funny how we hear things differently. Though, I probably have some minor hearing loss from concerts, loud stereos and loud cars over the years...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I found the fan that comes with the G10 to be nearly inaudible even at 100%. It's funny how we hear things differently. Though, I probably have some minor hearing loss from concerts, loud stereos and loud cars over the years...


I agree, the fans that came with it are just fine IMO. I just added the nanoxias because of that part of me that cant leave crap alone. I understand the green fans on the nanoxias are not particularly attractive Zombie, but are you playing games and watching movies, or watching the fans go round and round







Silence is golden...errr Green.


----------



## sugalumps

Since you are on the topic of noise here, how quiet are these things? If I slapped a noctua nf-f12 onto the h55 or similarly quiet fan, will it be really quiet over all(pump noise, little fan that's on the bracket).

As my 980 msi gaming is going back as it has electrical buzzing, so I have the option to put one of these on my gtx 780 sc acx or grab a quiet 970. Though they perform the same and I would save over £200 putting one of these on my 780 and ocing it to 970 levels.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Since you are on the topic of noise here, how quiet are these things? If I slapped a noctua nf-f12 onto the h55 or similarly quiet fan, will it be really quiet over all(pump noise, little fan that's on the bracket).
> 
> As my 980 msi gaming is going back as it has electrical buzzing, so I have the option to put one of these on my gtx 780 sc acx or grab a quiet 970. Though they perform the same and I would save over £200 putting one of these on my 780 and ocing it to 970 levels.


In my experience, the pump on the H55 is virtually silent and the NZXT fan on the G10 at 100% is what I would call "whisper quiet". Sitting with my right ear about 24" away, I can barely hear it.

As for the fans on the rad, that depends on which fans you use and what speed you run them at. I'm running 3 Corsair SP120 performance edition fans on my H55/H60 rad stack and I generally set them to 7v where they are still fairly quiet yet flow enough air to keep things cool even with the system under full load for hours.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I found the fan that comes with the G10 to be nearly inaudible even at 100%. It's funny how we hear things differently. Though, I probably have some minor hearing loss from concerts, loud stereos and loud cars over the years...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I agree, the fans that came with it are just fine IMO. I just added the nanoxias because of that part of me that cant leave crap alone. I understand the green fans on the nanoxias are not particularly attractive Zombie, but are you playing games and watching movies, or watching the fans go round and round
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silence is golden...errr Green.


Don't get me wrong, the Noctua fan is not bad but I can still hear it at 10 feet away. I do need to swap out my one fan on the rad which might help with some noise, the stock fans are usually not the greatest with these AIO's and can be a bit nosier. I will say that this setup is better than the stock cooler on the MSI 970, now that would get loud under load.


----------



## vulcan78

I have been experiencing what is characteristically described as "thermal compound burn-in smell" for well over a month now, or since I went this route. I believe the problem is the excessive amount of TIM I applied to the copper shim (thin coat, its just that there is double the TIM than would otherwise be in there), using Gelid GC Extreme and their application method (spread with applicator). Also, I am seeing peak temps around 55C both primary and secondary with the default vbios and an aggressive overclock (1254 core / 1950 memory @ default voltage) whereas this 780 Ti Classified owner is seeing 50C peak with 1.325V and the clocks around 1320 core, bear in mind that he/she is probably seeing 450-500W through the card with this voltage and is still seeing better temps having removed the tabs:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1411500/official-evga-classified-owners-club/10140#post_21912782

Although my cards have 2.5 years remaining on the warranty, I can't bear the thermal compound vapors any longer, my eyes and face burn and it is inflaming my lungs when I play games with substantial load. The only way to do this the right way is to remove the tabs. Oh and I also want to add that I'm fairly certain a fair amount of heat is being conveyed through those tabs as they directly contact the AIO's heat-sink and my ACX mid-plate is very hot around the VRAM area, where the tabs are, under high load.

Can I simply bend them off? If cutting is the only way, I assume using a Dremel tool or something? Thanks in advance.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Vulcan

I have no problem and I use the same TIM and shim method.

That Classy owner is using an H75, so factor that in. Also, just like with CPUs, not every GPU is created equal. Some will run hotter than others. I had two GTX 780 SCs, one needing to be RMA'd. One ran at 68C max load, the other at 75C. Thats a pretty big temperature difference. One overclocked well, the 75C one, the other wouldn't OC worth a damn, 68C one. So there is a lot of variance, just like with CPU overclocking, I always tell people to not try and compare your results to other people, just focus on getting the best possible OC for your chip that you are comfortable with.

I would also like to point out that a 780 Classy is not pulling 450-500W. That is a max system load, not a single GPU load. Single 780 Classy SC is probably doing in the neighborhood for 250-275W when overclocked at absolute max load, I'm talking Furmark levels.

I do have a different AIO, X31, but it is the same Asetek design as the H55. It is not touching the side tabs, but it is incredible close. Like stick a piece of printer paper in between close. Bottom line, stop measuring stuff with your hand. Buy a temperature probe or heat gun because you keep making these crazy assumptions based on feel. My VRMs run at 50C at max, which is an excellent temperature for VRMs, but my card is still very hot to the touch.

If you are dead set on removing the tabs you should remove everything. Take off the mid plate and then dremel the tabs off.


----------



## Sploosh

Finally got everything mounted properly, but found out too late that the K60 is too large to mount properly on the bottom of my case as it interferes with the power supply wiring. Can't mount on the front either because the tubes aren't long enough. Live and learn, I guess... Going to need to pick up a 140mm rad to make this doable.


----------



## Yianni89

Mine is on order! in White! going into a Phantom 820 Black for Nvidia GTX 970.

couple of questions,

1. for anyone in the UK where can i get some decent heatsinks?

2. is it worth puting a Noctua 92mm fan instead of stock for some extra cooling?

3. Also using it with a Kraken x41 (this is a new build by the way) if anyone is familiar with the Phantom 820 layout is the best place for the 140mm rad and fan on the back blowing out the case? or on the pivot pulling into the case?

thanks


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> Mine is on order! in White! going into a Phantom 820 Black for Nvidia GTX 970.
> 
> couple of questions,
> 
> 1. for anyone in the UK where can i get some decent heatsinks?
> 
> 2. is it worth puting a Noctua 92mm fan instead of stock for some extra cooling?
> 
> 3. Also using it with a Kraken x41 (this is a new build by the way) if anyone is familiar with the Phantom 820 layout is the best place for the 140mm rad and fan on the back blowing out the case? or on the pivot pulling into the case?
> 
> thanks


The G10 works with a 970? I have a 970 SC w/ ACX 2.0. Wonder if it would fit that.


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> The G10 works with a 970? I have a 970 SC w/ ACX 2.0. Wonder if it would fit that.


it says so on NZXT's site under specs and compatability....


----------



## Swuell

Hi, I'm interested in getting the Nzxt Kraken g10 and had wanted to know specifically how you guys were controlling the fans for the Kraken g10? Are you guys using a fan curve or controlling through the gpu, if through the gpu how would you go about doing that? As that's one of the things I was quite worried about when reading the reviews over this was the lack of the thermal sensors for the GPU for dynamic scaling of the fans with the GPU so wanted to know how to mitigate this if this were installed. Since I'm sure you could get better temperatures and lower readings with this installed along with dynamic GPU fan control. Any help would be appreciated! Also if anybody has had the pleasure of having this and the stock MSI Lightning could you tell me what the differences in temp are? Thanks.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Hi, I'm interested in getting the Nzxt Kraken g10 and had wanted to know specifically how you guys were controlling the fans for the Kraken g10? Are you guys using a fan curve or controlling through the gpu, if through the gpu how would you go about doing that? As that's one of the things I was quite worried about when reading the reviews over this was the lack of the thermal sensors for the GPU for dynamic scaling of the fans with the GPU so wanted to know how to mitigate this if this were installed. Since I'm sure you could get better temperatures and lower readings with this installed along with dynamic GPU fan control. Any help would be appreciated! Also if anybody has had the pleasure of having this and the stock MSI Lightning could you tell me what the differences in temp are? Thanks.


For the GPU to control the fan, you will need one of these from FrozenCPU for $4.99, it's totally worth it.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Hi, I'm interested in getting the Nzxt Kraken g10 and had wanted to know specifically how you guys were controlling the fans for the Kraken g10? Are you guys using a fan curve or controlling through the gpu, if through the gpu how would you go about doing that? As that's one of the things I was quite worried about when reading the reviews over this was the lack of the thermal sensors for the GPU for dynamic scaling of the fans with the GPU so wanted to know how to mitigate this if this were installed. Since I'm sure you could get better temperatures and lower readings with this installed along with dynamic GPU fan control. Any help would be appreciated! Also if anybody has had the pleasure of having this and the stock MSI Lightning could you tell me what the differences in temp are? Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> For the GPU to control the fan, you will need one of these from FrozenCPU for $4.99, it's totally worth it.


I just run the pump and fan on the G10 at 100% (12v) constant. The pump should run on 12v anyways and the fan is very quiet. But, if you want the GPU to control that fan, then this looks like a great low-cost solution.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> For the GPU to control the fan, you will need one of these from FrozenCPU for $4.99, it's totally worth it.


@Captain Zombie Thank you!! Is that it though? Since I saw a couple posts before where somebody said something about getting that and some sort of splitter to put it into the 12v rail for constant voltage also? Just confused...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I just run the pump and fan on the G10 at 100% (12v) constant. The pump should run on 12v anyways and the fan is very quiet. But, if you want the GPU to control that fan, then this looks like a great low-cost solution.


@MEC-777 ah but I don't think I have that option available since I already have a H100 for my cpu XD.

Also @Captain Zombie and @MEC-777 if I got that thing from FrozenCPU would it allow me to have access to MSI's below features that are exclusive to the MSI R9 290x Lightning card? I know the VGA Fan Control would work but would the 3x3 OC Kits work too -- how exactly does this overvoltage feature work anyways, is it all software or does it actually have an hardware connector? Since if it's only software I shouldn't have to worry right?

3X3 OC KITS
The Triple Overvoltage gives you instant voltage adjustment of GPU/Memory/PLL via MSI Afterburner. The Triple Temp Monitor allows you to monitor and control the GPU/Memory/PLL condition at the same time. The V-Check Points allows you to directly and accurately measure the voltage of GPU/Memory/PLL via a multi-meter.

VGA FAN CONTROL
The VGA Fan Control is MSI's exclusive software and only for the R9 290X LIGHTNING. It displays the temperature and PWM on the interface, and allows you to control the fan speed via two PWM controllers automatically or manually.

And sorry for all these questions. I had asked on the MSI Lightning club but so far haven't gotten responses yet, and not sure if some of them even have installed custom cooling for theirs. Though from some of the ones I've read they have but the ones that have replied back to me haven't so thought I might ask here just in case I could get more info.

Thanks.


----------



## Trondster

If you buy the adapter described above, you can run a fan off the gpu header and control the speed of that fan with the standard temperature curve tools for your GPU, just like the stock cooler.

You need power for the following items:
- The pump. This should always run at a constant speed (unless you have a pump with special speed control). Plug it into a motherboard fan header or power it via a molex adapter to keep it running at 100%.
- The G10 fan. This fan cools your VRMs. Either run it from a motherboard fan header or molex adapter to keep it at 100% speed, or control it via the GPU fan header.
- The radiator fan(s). These cool your radiator. As they tend to be the noisiest part of this cooling system, I suggest controlling it with the GPU fan header.

If you run only one fan off the GPU fan header the GPU fan header adapter shown above should do fine. If you want to run multiple fans off the GPU header (I run the G10 fan and both radiator fans controlled by the GPU fan header), then in addition buy a molex powered PWM fan splitter, like this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311002

With a GPU fan header to "regular" fan header adapter, as well as a molex powered splitter, you can run and control as many fans as you want from the GPU fan header.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> If you buy the adapter described above, you can run a fan off the gpu header and control the speed of that fan with the standard temperature curve tools for your GPU, just like the stock cooler.
> 
> You need power for the following items:
> - The pump. This should always run at a constant speed (unless you have a pump with special speed control). Plug it into a motherboard fan header or power it via a molex adapter to keep it running at 100%.
> - The G10 fan. This fan cools your VRMs. Either run it from a motherboard fan header or molex adapter to keep it at 100% speed, or control it via the GPU fan header.
> - The radiator fan(s). These cool your radiator. As they tend to be the noisiest part of this cooling system, I suggest controlling it with the GPU fan header.
> 
> If you run only one fan off the GPU fan header the GPU fan header adapter shown above should do fine. If you want to run multiple fans off the GPU header (I run the G10 fan and both radiator fans controlled by the GPU fan header), then in addition buy a molex powered PWM fan splitter, like this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311002
> 
> With a GPU fan header to "regular" fan header adapter, as well as a molex powered splitter, you can run and control as many fans as you want from the GPU fan header.


Thank you so much for telling me about that!!!! Do you possibly know anything about the included heatsink that comes with the MSI Lightning r9 290x, is that only for waterblock water cooling solutions or does that also work for closed loop cooling solutions like the Kraken G10? And I'll get that multi head splitter so I can run the radiator and G10 fans off of the GPU since that was my main concern when converting to this water cooling haha. Is there anything else that I need?

And thank god I don't need to consider a Corsair Commander Mini now lol.. I thought that was my only solution to get a dynamic GPU graph for fan control haha. And when controling the fan with the standard controls, I can set it to auto (dynamic) or manual, etc, correct?

Thanks again!

EDIT: also I'm guessing the 3x3 OC Kit for the voltage controls is software so even if I take off the stock cooler I'll still have access to those right? Also would you recommend an corsair H55, H60 or an H75? I didn't even know they had an H60 and they're H70's are out of stock







.


----------



## Yianni89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> If you buy the adapter described above, you can run a fan off the gpu header and control the speed of that fan with the standard temperature curve tools for your GPU, just like the stock cooler.
> 
> You need power for the following items:
> - The pump. This should always run at a constant speed (unless you have a pump with special speed control). Plug it into a motherboard fan header or power it via a molex adapter to keep it running at 100%.
> - The G10 fan. This fan cools your VRMs. Either run it from a motherboard fan header or molex adapter to keep it at 100% speed, or control it via the GPU fan header.
> - The radiator fan(s). These cool your radiator. As they tend to be the noisiest part of this cooling system, I suggest controlling it with the GPU fan header.
> 
> If you run only one fan off the GPU fan header the GPU fan header adapter shown above should do fine. If you want to run multiple fans off the GPU header (I run the G10 fan and both radiator fans controlled by the GPU fan header), then in addition buy a molex powered PWM fan splitter, like this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311002
> 
> With a GPU fan header to "regular" fan header adapter, as well as a molex powered splitter, you can run and control as many fans as you want from the GPU fan header.


will this work just as easily/the same with a SATA powered PWM splitter?


----------



## Swuell

Also would something like this @Trondster http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20763/thr-218/Pure_Copper_Thermal_Shim_-_20mm_x_20mm_x_08mm.html be neceessary if I'm using the included heatsink for my MSI r9 290x Lightning?


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yianni89*
> 
> will this work just as easily/the same with a SATA powered PWM splitter?


Yup - it should work nicely.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Also would something like this @Trondster http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20763/thr-218/Pure_Copper_Thermal_Shim_-_20mm_x_20mm_x_08mm.html be neceessary if I'm using the included heatsink for my MSI r9 290x Lightning?


I'm no expert on shims and which cards that may require them - but as a rule of thumb they are often necessary on cards with mid-plates.

If you have an existing mid-plate or heat sink covering the VRM's beneath the G10 fan you should be good to go VRM cooling wise - and you may consider fitting a low-profile heat sink to any mid plate over the VRMs if there's enough room.


----------



## Mugamat

Just got Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate. Installed easily. Here are temps under load and huge oc (947>1210MHz) and photo from case.

*Idle:*

*Load:*

*Case Look:*


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugamat*
> 
> Just got Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate. Installed easily. Here are temps under load and huge oc (947>1210MHz) and photo from case.


Nice GPU temp of 55 degrees.
But - consider a heat sink for your VRMs - 90 degrees is a bit much...


----------



## Mugamat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Nice GPU temp of 55 degrees.
> But - consider a heat sink for your VRMs - 90 degrees is a bit much...


Yes, that`s an old screen with old cooling, my mistake. That`s new one.


----------



## Trondster

I'd still recommend VRM heat sinks...


----------



## Mugamat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> I'd still recommend VRM heat sinks...


I have it. Gelid ICY Vision Kit. That temp because of overclocking. Look at the voltage and core speed)))


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugamat*
> 
> I have it. Gelid ICY Vision Kit. That temp because of overclocking. Look at the voltage and core speed)))


Fair enough!


----------



## Swuell




----------



## Swuell




----------



## Swuell

I can't seem to respond to this thread...

Any examples of low profile heat sinks Trondster? And also I read and got the links off of a post from this thread a few hundred posts back but albeit confused with this card what to do due to the many different opinions/suggestions from people... it's all crisscrossed. I'm also unfamiliar with copper shim's nor do I know how to install them.


----------



## Swuell

is the kraken g10 not compatible with coolermaster nepton 120xl?


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> is the kraken g10 not compatible with coolermaster nepton 120xl?


No - it is only compatible with the coolers listed on the product page:
NZXT : Kraken X61, Kraken X41, Kraken X31, Kraken X60, Kraken X40
Corsair : H105, H110, H90, H75, H55 , H50 (CW-9060006-WW only)
Antec : KUHLER H2O 920V4, KUHLER H2O 620V4, KUHLER H2O 920, KUHLER H2O 620
Thermaltake : Water 3.0 Extreme, Water 3.0 Pro, Water 3.0 Performer, Water 2.0 Extreme, Water 2.0 Pro, Water 2.0 Performer
Zalman : LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> is the kraken g10 not compatible with coolermaster nepton 120xl?


No it is not. Check the website for a list of compatible AIOs.

The MSI R9 290X Lightning does not need a copper shim.


As you can see, the mid plate is not interfering at all with the area around the GPU die.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> No - it is only compatible with the coolers listed on the product page:
> NZXT : Kraken X61, Kraken X41, Kraken X31, Kraken X60, Kraken X40
> Corsair : H105, H110, H90, H75, H55 , H50 (CW-9060006-WW only)
> Antec : KUHLER H2O 920V4, KUHLER H2O 620V4, KUHLER H2O 920, KUHLER H2O 620
> Thermaltake : Water 3.0 Extreme, Water 3.0 Pro, Water 3.0 Performer, Water 2.0 Extreme, Water 2.0 Pro, Water 2.0 Performer
> Zalman : LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310


Ahh damn! I didn't now the G10 had to specifically be compatible with the ones listed.. or else the nepton 120xl would of been a great choice... Huh. That must mean the swiftech 140 would of been out of the question too -- even if I could of fit that in. Thanks for re-confirming this for me. I just found about the specific compatibility, I had that it was more widely compatible... What vrm heatsinks would you recommend -- you said there were ones that were low profile?

EDIT: I also forgot to ask you, about the fans did you tell me to get both http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311002 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZKZEQA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A18K25N425Y52T?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> No it is not. Check the website for a list of compatible AIOs.
> 
> The MSI R9 290X Lightning does not need a copper shim.
> 
> 
> As you can see, the mid plate is not interfering at all with the area around the GPU die.


I've seen the compatibility list I just didn't know they followed that to a T.







Or else I was planning on getting the CoolerMaster Nepton 120xl till I saw your post about G10 not supporting CoolerMaster AIO's so I thought I should ask just in case was all. Thanks for the reply.

And that's good -- thanks alot that helps alot! Do you know if the above picture you showed me is the stock heatsink or is it the included accessory heatsink that's used for watercooling/ln2 that comes with the MSI Lightning installed? Since I was planning on installing on the included accessory with the Kraken G10.

EDIT: Do I need some VRM heatsinks, as an added benefit?


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Ahh damn! I didn't now the G10 had to specifically be compatible with the ones listed.. or else the nepton 120xl would of been a great choice... Huh. That must mean the swiftech 140 would of been out of the question too -- even if I could of fit that in. Thanks for re-confirming this for me. I just found about the specific compatibility, I had that it was more widely compatible... What vrm heatsinks would you recommend -- you said there were ones that were low profile?
> 
> EDIT: I also forgot to ask you, about the fans did you tell me to get both http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311002 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZKZEQA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A18K25N425Y52T?


The G10 only uses AIOs that use the Asetek blocks


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> The G10 only uses AIOs that use the Asetek blocks


Yeah I didn't realize CoolerMaster wasn't sourced from Asetek. /sigh.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Do I need some VRM heatsinks, as an added benefit?


With a mid-plate like that you won't be needing any extra heat sinks.

The G10 only support Asetek-based coolers, and only the ones one the list - the round pumps with the special ring of "teeth" that fit the matching ridges on the G10 bracket.

And yes - the two cables you linked to will do nicely - together.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> The G10 only support Asetek-based coolers, and only the ones one the list - the round pumps with the special ring of "teeth" that fit the matching ridges on the G10 bracket.


yeah i just said that


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> yeah i just said that


Yup - I just wanted to add the bit about the teeth - it makes it easier to visually recognize the compatible parts from pictures.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> With a mid-plate like that you won't be needing any extra heat sinks.
> 
> The G10 only support Asetek-based coolers, and only the ones one the list - the round pumps with the special ring of "teeth" that fit the matching ridges on the G10 bracket.
> 
> And yes - the two cables you linked to will do nicely - together.


Oh well that's good then haha. Less money to spend lol. And that mid-plate up there is stock, I'm not sure what the accessory looks like when put on but if it's intended for watercooling I'm guessing it should be just as good.

Ah yeah I realized that after a while haha. Stupid me XD. Thanks! Though why is that we need both cables, the first one changes it so you can use aftermarket fans but without is it not possible to use other fans? Oh and what fan would you recommend for a Corsair H75 or Nzxt Kraken x31? (I'm reading reviews to see which ones do better, though the Kraken has a pretty sweet app for phones it seems. Though if it's iphone exclusive then it doesn't matter to me since I don't have an iphone...)


----------



## Trondster

The H75 has the thinnest radiator of them all - I'd prefer the Kraken X31, which also has longer hoses.
I have installed Akasa fans myself - I guess the best fans would be Gentle Typhoons from Scythe; the problem is that they're no longer manufactured.

Without the fan header adapter you can only use GPU fans, which have the smaller connector. Most fans use "regular" fan headers, and the adapter changes the GPU fan header connector to a "regular" motherboard fan header connector.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> The H75 has the thinnest radiator of them all - I'd prefer the Kraken X31, which also has longer hoses.
> I have installed Akasa fans myself - I guess the best fans would be Gentle Typhoons from Scythe; the problem is that they're no longer manufactured.
> 
> Without the fan header adapter you can only use GPU fans, which have the smaller connector. Most fans use "regular" fan headers, and the adapter changes the GPU fan header connector to a "regular" motherboard fan header connector.


Yeah I was thinking of getting the Kraken X31 since it has better cooling then the H75 actually. Oh. Well how are Akasa fans -- are they adequate for the Kraken X31 to push the cooling?

Ohh I see now. Thanks I was just a bit confused with that is all XD.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

So, I've had an R9 290 since launch. Lovely card, and the stock OC is respectable. However, the third fan on the sapphire heatsink makes a variety of annoying noises when it's heading towards high RPM, and sometimes when it's stable at high RPM.
There's resonance wub wub wub, there's clicking and ticking and knocking. I've tried everything short of sending it back - washer mods under the fan on the heatsink, I've tried securing it more firmly to the chassis, everything.
I don't want to be without a GPU for however long it takes to get sorted, and even if it does get sorted it's still going to be louder than I'd like. Therefore, I'm thinking about replacing it with an AIO solution (avoids the cost of custom blocks and can be used on my next GPU).
With this in mind, I've been eyeing up the G10 and a H75; I'm hoping this will allow me to reach a better OC and also drastically reduce noise. I've got a few questions for those more experienced with GPU and AIO cooling though:
How does one control the rad fan speed? I'm assuming I can push the PWM signal from the GPU with a converter to the rad fan?
Same question about the VRM fan - how best to regulate this? If it cannot be regulated in line with VRM temps, what's a good way to control the speed to keep noise levels acceptable?
Is the H75 the best choice? I have 3 120mm intakes at the front of the case, and an H100i on the way for my CPU. I imagine they can go next to each other on the intake, but I'm open to correction on this point.
Should I get VRM heatsinks, or any other thermal interface material to supplement or replace the TIM provided?
Many thanks all!


----------



## Trondster

See the previous couple of posts - they answer exactly all your questions. With the GPU fan header to regular fan header adapter, and an externally powered PWM splitter, you can run how many fans you like controlled by the GPU fan header. Run your radiator fans off the PWM splitter connected to the GPU fan header. Run the VRM fan either connected to the splitter (I did this, but then again I went the extra mile for VRM heatsink cooling) or at a constant 100% connected to a motherboard fan header.

If you have room I'd recommend a different AIO than H75 - I use the H75 as I actually needed the 2mm thinner radiator to fit it in my case. Go for a thicker radiator if you can - preferably a much thicker one. If you consider a 120mm intake at the front of your case, consider the NZXT Kraken X31 - it has longer hoses. And - do take note that you need room for both the fan and radiator, and that the radiator is much taller than it is wide.

Get a set of heatsinks for the VRMs, unless there already is a heatsink or mid-plate on your card.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Thanks, +rep.

Is the G10 fan PWM?

Also, what's the clearance on the unit for the VRM sinks?


----------



## PePoX

hi there! im about to upgrade my gpu from a HD7850 to a r9 290x (late to the party i know) and i have this 3 options:

msi lightning
the sapphire tri x or
the sapphire vapor x

my question here is: there wont be any problems with the lenght of these cards? i wont have to order ''special revised screws'' or anything like that? i know i''l need vram heatsink and vrm heatsink too but besides of all that it would fit?

thanks!!


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Thanks, +rep.
> 
> Is the G10 fan PWM?
> 
> Also, what's the clearance on the unit for the VRM sinks?


Thanks!








Yes, the G10 fan is PWM. I think the clearance is a bit over 10mm - heat sinks under 10mm in height should be fine...


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PePoX*
> 
> hi there! im about to upgrade my gpu from a HD7850 to a r9 290x (late to the party i know) and i have this 3 options:
> 
> msi lightning
> the sapphire tri x or
> the sapphire vapor x
> 
> my question here is: there wont be any problems with the lenght of these cards? i wont have to order ''special revised screws'' or anything like that? i know i''l need vram heatsink and vrm heatsink too but besides of all that it would fit?
> 
> thanks!!


If you want to replace the cooler with a G10 anyway, you could consider buying a cheaper card instead, with the crappy reference cooler.


----------



## PePoX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> If you want to replace the cooler with a G10 anyway, you could consider buying a cheaper card instead, with the crappy reference cooler.


that's not the point if i go with those brands and models it's because their quality their desing and because they are factory overclocked so i wont have to get my hands dirty, and the question remains unanswered: the g10 wil fit in any of those cards without futher mods or extra pieces?


----------



## Quadrider10

i believe the MSI has heat spreaders on the vram and VRMs. if so, you may have to use longer screws.
http://cdn.overclock.net/b/bd/500x1000px-LL-bd7473f3_894002_645720208797066_1729944450_o.jpeg


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> So, I've had an R9 290 since launch. Lovely card, and the stock OC is respectable. However, the third fan on the sapphire heatsink makes a variety of annoying noises when it's heading towards high RPM, and sometimes when it's stable at high RPM.
> There's resonance wub wub wub, there's clicking and ticking and knocking. I've tried everything short of sending it back - washer mods under the fan on the heatsink, I've tried securing it more firmly to the chassis, everything.
> I don't want to be without a GPU for however long it takes to get sorted, and even if it does get sorted it's still going to be louder than I'd like. Therefore, I'm thinking about replacing it with an AIO solution (avoids the cost of custom blocks and can be used on my next GPU).
> With this in mind, I've been eyeing up the G10 and a H75; I'm hoping this will allow me to reach a better OC and also drastically reduce noise. I've got a few questions for those more experienced with GPU and AIO cooling though:
> How does one control the rad fan speed? I'm assuming I can push the PWM signal from the GPU with a converter to the rad fan?
> Same question about the VRM fan - how best to regulate this? If it cannot be regulated in line with VRM temps, what's a good way to control the speed to keep noise levels acceptable?
> Is the H75 the best choice? I have 3 120mm intakes at the front of the case, and an H100i on the way for my CPU. I imagine they can go next to each other on the intake, but I'm open to correction on this point.
> Should I get VRM heatsinks, or any other thermal interface material to supplement or replace the TIM provided?
> Many thanks all!


The Kraken x31 also cools alot better than H75 and you also get a pretty nice app for looking at the temps though the app itself is limited only because the aio itself is the lowest of the bunch but it's still pretty nice since the app is mobile (cam software) and is available for both iphone and android so that's a plus!


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PePoX*
> 
> that's not the point if i go with those brands and models it's because their quality their desing and because they are factory overclocked so i wont have to get my hands dirty, and the question remains unanswered: the g10 wil fit in any of those cards without futher mods or extra pieces?


I'm doing exactly what you're doing with the MSI Lightning and planning on overclocking it actually--or why else would you get the MSI Lightnin(?)--besides the card itself is greatly improved and a beast but on the screws themselves I'm not quite sure. I hope not though...


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> i believe the MSI has heat spreaders on the vram and VRMs. if so, you may have to use longer screws.
> http://cdn.overclock.net/b/bd/500x1000px-LL-bd7473f3_894002_645720208797066_1729944450_o.jpeg


Oh man... :| I did not know that -- Thanks!


----------



## Quadrider10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh man... :| I did not know that -- Thanks!


Its worth it tho. I would get the msi


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> Its worth it tho. I would get the msi


I already got it just waiting on the Kraken x31 and the g10 along with the adhesive tape and heatsinks! ^^ Where would I get longer screws though -- NZXT support?


----------



## Quadrider10

hardware store or online. M2.5-0.45 25mm


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> hardware store or online. M2.5-0.45 25mm


Thanks though that picture you showed, is that the stock vram heatsinks or is that with the water cooling vram heatsinks accessory attached on? Since MSI Lightning comes with the watercooling vram heatsinks so I was wondering if maybe the watercooling vram heatsinks doesn't need custom screws?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> hardware store or online. M2.5-0.45 25mm


I just searched it up and uhh... which ones? There's so many variants... like m2.5x10 or m2.5x6mm etc.


----------



## PePoX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I just searched it up and uhh... which ones? There's so many variants... like m2.5x10 or m2.5x6mm etc.


i think he talked about this kind of screws

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-M2-5-0-45-x-25-mm-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screws-2-Pack-11988/203540067?N=5yc1vZc2b0Z1z0sfxi


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I just searched it up and uhh... which ones? There's so many variants... like m2.5x10 or m2.5x6mm etc.


Try it with the included screws first. I had no problems with the included screws with my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ Backplate and mid plate. All you need to do is thin down or remove the G10's foam pad that is on its back plate.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PePoX*
> 
> i think he talked about this kind of screws
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-M2-5-0-45-x-25-mm-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screws-2-Pack-11988/203540067?N=5yc1vZc2b0Z1z0sfxi


thank you!


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Try it with the included screws first. I had no problems with the included screws with my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ Backplate and mid plate. All you need to do is thin down or remove the G10's foam pad that is on its back plate.


Ohh Thanks! How would you thin down or remove the foam pad on the back plate?

EDIT: By the way how many screws are there overall?


----------



## PePoX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Ohh Thanks! How would you thin down or remove the foam pad on the back plate?
> 
> EDIT: By the way how many screws are there overall?


i´ve seen some people that just flip the back plate i dont know if that carry bad consequences tho


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/lightbox/post/23270549/id/2280871





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2380#post_23270549



and about the screws i think that 8 is enough (the 4 on the chip/pump itself and 4 in the 92mm fan?) but don't quote me on that


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PePoX*
> 
> i´ve seen some people that just flip the back plate i dont know if that carry bad consequences tho
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/lightbox/post/23270549/id/2280871
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2380#post_23270549
> 
> 
> 
> and about the screws i think that 8 is enough (the 4 on the chip/pump itself and 4 in the 92mm fan?) but don't quote me on that


Thanks for the response and ah, well I wanted to know about how many screws came with the Kraken G10 so I would know how many I needed to get incase it didn't fit. :\


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Thanks for the response and ah, well I wanted to know about how many screws came with the Kraken G10 so I would know how many I needed to get incase it didn't fit. :\


It will fit, you don't need to worry about it. Just thin down the foam pad, or flip it like shown in the picture. You can thin in down with a very sharp knife. I used a fish fileting knife, and I wore gloves.


----------



## Quadrider10

you dont need the g10 backplate if using your stock gpu backplate


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> you dont need the g10 backplate if using your stock gpu backplate


Yes, you do, if you want to use the stock screws. You need the G10 backplate holes in combination with the G10 screws to fix the G10 screws and keep them from rotating.


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PePoX*
> 
> that's not the point if i go with those brands and models it's because their quality their desing and because they are factory overclocked so i wont have to get my hands dirty, and the question remains unanswered: the g10 wil fit in any of those cards without futher mods or extra pieces?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing exactly what you're doing with the MSI Lightning and planning on overclocking it actually--or why else would you get the MSI Lightnin(?)--besides the card itself is greatly improved and a beast but on the screws themselves I'm not quite sure. I hope not though...
Click to expand...

Hey Swuell, I have the 780 lightning card in my 380t with a G10 bracket, I used the supplied screws and kept the backplate and the midplate/baseplate on, VRM cooling is glorious









It also meant I didn't have to spend extra on getting thermal pads for VRMs and copper heat sinks for VRAMs, so that's also a plus :3


----------



## et3rn47

I plan on getting 2 g10s, and 2 msi 970s, but i struggle in finding, firstly, the model that has the highest OC, and further a motherboard that I want.
I really like the aesthetics of the sabertooth mark 1, but the asus z97 with 5 way optimisation seems to be just as good. I don't want to drop the cash beyond the price point of the mark 1.
I just want to make sure the g10s will look clean with my mobo, so I was looking for opinions of a good mix between aesthetics and options.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> I plan on getting 2 g10s, and 2 msi 970s, but i struggle in finding, firstly, the model that has the highest OC, and further a motherboard that I want.
> I really like the aesthetics of the sabertooth mark 1, but the asus z97 with 5 way optimisation seems to be just as good. I don't want to drop the cash beyond the price point of the mark 1.
> I just want to make sure the g10s will look clean with my mobo, so I was looking for opinions of a good mix between aesthetics and options.


Asus Z97-AR for motherboard

You are going to need a case large enough for two GPUs, and 2 AIOs. Check out the Phanteks Enthoo Pro or Enthoo Luxe. Buy X31s for the AIOs to use with the G10. You will have to mount the radiators to the front of the case as exhaust. You will have to remove the HDD drive bays. If you use an HDD, you can buy a 5.25" to HDD adapter so you can mount the HDD easily.


----------



## et3rn47

The case I have is the nzxt h440, as for the z97, the AR is out of stock and may or may not be restocked accordingly. Secondary options? And or, why did you pick that, over say the sabertooth mark 1?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> The case I have is the nzxt h440, as for the z97, the AR is out of stock and may or may not be restocked accordingly. Secondary options? And or, why did you pick that, over say the sabertooth mark 1?


I like the color scheme of the AR, it goes with everything. Can't go wrong with the Sabertooth either. Motherboard is all about features and aesthetic. They all perform the same.

NZXT H440, I'm not as familiar with this case as the Pro... but I do know it has poor airflow. You are going to need to figure out a way to keep everything nice and cool. You HAVE to make sure your radiators are exhausting out of the case, otherwise your temps will skyrocket. You might need to ghetto rig some fans over the VRMs, and definitely use heatsinks.


----------



## et3rn47

I've actually read that the airflow in the h440 is really good because of the setup is made with/for radiators. Was my source incorrect?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> It will fit, you don't need to worry about it. Just thin down the foam pad, or flip it like shown in the picture. You can thin in down with a very sharp knife. I used a fish fileting knife, and I wore gloves.


Ohh ok thanks! That does help alot!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Hey Swuell, I have the 780 lightning card in my 380t with a G10 bracket, I used the supplied screws and kept the backplate and the midplate/baseplate on, VRM cooling is glorious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also meant I didn't have to spend extra on getting thermal pads for VRMs and copper heat sinks for VRAMs, so that's also a plus :3


Even better haha since you're confirmed that the screws are compatible! Ahh can't wait lol! Haha truee -- did you end up using the included Mosef watercooling heatsink accessory that came with the card? Though I ended up just getting the thermal pads and some cheaper aluminum heat sinks to help it haha.


----------



## Quadrider10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> I've actually read that the airflow in the h440 is really good because of the setup is made with/for radiators. Was my source incorrect?


i have the H440. airflow is not the best. especially for aircooled GPUs. this is what i did to combat it however:

1) Buy 3 noctua NF12s for the intake
2) remove the intake dust filter
3) remove all the sound proof foam in the front panel
4) use 1 HDD tray as a gpu fan
5) make sure to use a high airflow rear and top exhaust fans
6a) if you have a cpu rad, configure it so that it exhausts through the TOP of the case
6b) if you have a gpu rad, configure it so that it is exhaust out the rear fan.

Since i dont have money for all nf12 case fans, i currently have 2 140mm intakes, 1 140mm exhaust, and my 2 rads are the noctua ones. in exhaust out the top and rear.

with watercooling, the case isnt bad and there is a lot of options. for air cooling, it is not a great case at all. with my 780ti kingpin all stock, gpu can easily hit 85C under normal gaming.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *et3rn47*
> 
> I've actually read that the airflow in the h440 is really good because of the setup is made with/for radiators. Was my source incorrect?


Not sure where you read that, but it is common knowledge that the H440 has very bad airflow.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Not sure where you read that, but it is common knowledge that the H440 has very bad airflow.


Never heard of that case till now :O


----------



## Vendari

I've worked o that case for a build I did for a client... It isn't as TERRIBLE as some reviews say it is.. but it's quite bad.... even when the drive cages are removed...


----------



## moustang

Well, I guess I'm now half way into this club...

I've got two MSI 4GB GTX 770 Twin Frozr Gaming OC edition cards that I will be cooling with the G10 and Kraken X41 AIOs.

Got the first one done today. It was amazingly simply for my card. Since the MSI card I have comes with heat spreaders on both the top and bottom of the card I was able to forgo adding additional heatsinks. Just removed the MSI heatpipes and put on the G10 and X41 water pump. No unexpected hassles and the only modification I had to make was to pull the pad off the G10 backplate since it rested flush on the heat spreader.

I may go back and add heatsinks to the heat spreader if the current cooling turns out to not be enough, but since they were previously cooled by nothing more than the air blown through the MSI heatpipes I don't see any problems popping up.

So, now I've got one of my video cards converted. Unfortunately I'll have to wait until after Christmas before having enough money to buy the second X41 for the second card. I'll also have to wait until I get home before I can install this one since I did the conversion at work.

Which leaves me with two quick questions that hopefully someone will be able to answer before I leave work. I cannot connect the X41s via USB to the motherboard. That means no custom cooling profiles and no altering the LED color on the cooler. Not really a big deal, but I wanted to know....

1. What is the default color of the LED since I cannot change it?
2. If I connect the X41 to the USB, make changes with the CAM software and then unplug the USB connection will it retain the changes?

BTW, I'm mounting this all in an NZXT Phantom 630 case. I'm hoping the tubes in the X41 are long enough to allow me to bottom mount both radiators. The case has the space and great airflow, but I'm a bit worried about the tube length.


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> It will fit, you don't need to worry about it. Just thin down the foam pad, or flip it like shown in the picture. You can thin in down with a very sharp knife. I used a fish fileting knife, and I wore gloves.
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh ok thanks! That does help alot!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Hey Swuell, I have the 780 lightning card in my 380t with a G10 bracket, I used the supplied screws and kept the backplate and the midplate/baseplate on, VRM cooling is glorious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also meant I didn't have to spend extra on getting thermal pads for VRMs and copper heat sinks for VRAMs, so that's also a plus :3
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Even better haha since you're confirmed that the screws are compatible! Ahh can't wait lol! Haha truee -- did you end up using the included Mosef watercooling heatsink accessory that came with the card? Though I ended up just getting the thermal pads and some cheaper aluminum heat sinks to help it haha.
Click to expand...

I was ready to use it, but seeing as the original midplate fits fine I saw no reason to, it's awesome they include something like that though







the packaging of the lightning is awesome


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I was ready to use it, but seeing as the original midplate fits fine I saw no reason to, it's awesome they include something like that though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the packaging of the lightning is awesome


Yess! The packaging is soo tight!







Except I"m quite confused... what's with the 2 extra connectors... are those for connecting the cards--do we need those to connect the cards, I thought our PSU's are already supposed to have those(?)--and what's with the tiny little connectors and little screws, what are those for? I can't find anything within the so called "manual" that they give you... It's more like an pamphlet.. I want a damn manual lol.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Tiny update, added 980,970 to compatible gpus on main page.


----------



## moustang

Well, that whole install went easier than I expected. My worries about the tube length were unfounded, even in the full tower case I had tube to spare going from the bottom of the case to the top video card. Now I just need to buy the second X41 to cool my second card.

But it's working quite nicely now. Can you tell which card has the G10 mounted on it?


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I was ready to use it, but seeing as the original midplate fits fine I saw no reason to, it's awesome they include something like that though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the packaging of the lightning is awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yess! The packaging is soo tight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except I"m quite confused... what's with the 2 extra connectors... are those for connecting the cards--do we need those to connect the cards, I thought our PSU's are already supposed to have those(?)--and what's with the tiny little connectors and little screws, what are those for? I can't find anything within the so called "manual" that they give you... It's more like an pamphlet.. I want a damn manual lol.
Click to expand...

not sure about the little screws (maybe for installing the LN2 midplate..?) but the extra connectors are there for convenience, just in case for whatever reason you need to run your card with MOLEX power cables instead of the standard VGA ones.. The tiny connectors are for voltage output so you can monitor the voltages of your card with a voltmeter via the voltage probes on the card itself - more accurate than software voltage readings









If you want more information about the lightning and you haven't already, check out this thread, it's got custom bioses, tons of information, and loads of people with the card who can give you tips on how to overclock it


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> not sure about the little screws (maybe for installing the LN2 midplate..?) but the extra connectors are there for convenience, just in case for whatever reason you need to run your card with MOLEX power cables instead of the standard VGA ones.. The tiny connectors are for voltage output so you can monitor the voltages of your card with a voltmeter via the voltage probes on the card itself - more accurate than software voltage readings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want more information about the lightning and you haven't already, check out this thread, it's got custom bioses, tons of information, and loads of people with the card who can give you tips on how to overclock it


Yeah not sure haha... I'm trying to see--I downloaded the manual from MSI's website so hopefully that's a bit more helpful than the pamphlet given in the box--but who knows lol? Aaahh thanks haha, I was just so confused for a second lol... I was just like "whaaa??? Connectors?!!! What about the PSU?!" haha... yeah. Thanks for the clarification. I had thought that was what they were for but wasn't quite sure if it was or not ha, thanks!

And yess, thanks for the link but I've already checked out that thread--but haven't subbed--though I'll definitely re-check it out and sub it right away! Though it's a different card from mine haha, theirs is the MSI GTX 780 Lightning and mine is the MSI R9 290X Lightning haha. So I don't think their custom bios would help me much but thanks! I'll ask if they know anything about the r9 cards since they're so similar!


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> not sure about the little screws (maybe for installing the LN2 midplate..?) but the extra connectors are there for convenience, just in case for whatever reason you need to run your card with MOLEX power cables instead of the standard VGA ones.. The tiny connectors are for voltage output so you can monitor the voltages of your card with a voltmeter via the voltage probes on the card itself - more accurate than software voltage readings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want more information about the lightning and you haven't already, check out this thread, it's got custom bioses, tons of information, and loads of people with the card who can give you tips on how to overclock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah not sure haha... I'm trying to see--I downloaded the manual from MSI's website so hopefully that's a bit more helpful than the pamphlet given in the box--but who knows lol? Aaahh thanks haha, I was just so confused for a second lol... I was just like "whaaa??? Connectors?!!! What about the PSU?!" haha... yeah. Thanks for the clarification. I had thought that was what they were for but wasn't quite sure if it was or not ha, thanks!
> 
> And yess, thanks for the link but I've already checked out that thread--but haven't subbed--though I'll definitely re-check it out and sub it right away! Though it's a different card from mine haha, theirs is the MSI GTX 780 Lightning and mine is the MSI R9 290X Lightning haha. So I don't think their custom bios would help me much but thanks! I'll ask if they know anything about the r9 cards since they're so similar!
Click to expand...

ah lol, assumed you were talking about the 780







there's probably a 290x lightning thread around here too







Oh and Merry Christmas one and all! Sorry for all the off-topic stuffs!


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> ah lol, assumed you were talking about the 780
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there's probably a 290x lightning thread around here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and Merry Christmas one and all! Sorry for all the off-topic stuffs!


Naaawww, was talking about the 290x but that's fine haha! ^^ I've already been to the 290x thread and subbed already and also asked the 780 thread too and they actually gave me pretty good info lol!







Thanks and Merry Christmas to you--and everybody else--hope you guys enjoy it and have a good one!


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Well, that whole install went easier than I expected. My worries about the tube length were unfounded, even in the full tower case I had tube to spare going from the bottom of the case to the top video card. Now I just need to buy the second X41 to cool my second card.
> 
> But it's working quite nicely now. Can you tell which card has the G10 mounted on it?


damn! 23 degree min?! wow!


----------



## moustang

Yeah, I was impressed with that as well. Especially considering ambient temp was 72F, only 1F lower. That's idling at less than 1C over ambient and is actually cooler than the internal case temps.

And that was with the core clocked to 1137mhz, the MSI Gaming Overclock mode. I would go higher but I'm being held back by the air cooled card now. I'm trying to stay as quiet as possible while not exceeding 80C on the GPUs. After a lot of testing and tweaking I found that the best balance on air cooling was a max of 50% fan speed. That lets me just about hit 100% GPU load while staying right at the 80C temperature limit. Any higher fan speed and it's louder than I want, any higher clock and it throttles back the GPU to stay under the 80C threshold, and the 80C threshold is non-negotiable.

I can't wait to get my second X41 now. Once both cards are AIO cooled I'm going to see what these cards can really do.


----------



## Quadrider10

ok, well im having issues with temps.... i just bought the bracket and a h55, and im getting temps over 75C which is worse than my stock air cooler. im using it on a 780 ti kingpin card with a copper shim so i can use the VRAM heat spreader. with the fan (NF-F12) at 100%, temps are at 65C. VRM temps are less then 60C...

i reseated this thing 2X and still getting the same temps...

EDIT:

ok im trying with a sp120 fan, and with the fan profile on auto, again, it hits 75C, but with the fan on 100% temps are hitting 52C, so obvisiously it is not a seating issue, how should i control this fan? i dont want to have MSI AB start up with windows 24/7....


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Yeah, I was impressed with that as well. Especially considering ambient temp was 72F, only 1F lower. That's idling at less than 1C over ambient and is actually cooler than the internal case temps.
> 
> And that was with the core clocked to 1137mhz, the MSI Gaming Overclock mode. I would go higher but I'm being held back by the air cooled card now. I'm trying to stay as quiet as possible while not exceeding 80C on the GPUs. After a lot of testing and tweaking I found that the best balance on air cooling was a max of 50% fan speed. That lets me just about hit 100% GPU load while staying right at the 80C temperature limit. Any higher fan speed and it's louder than I want, any higher clock and it throttles back the GPU to stay under the 80C threshold, and the 80C threshold is non-negotiable.
> 
> I can't wait to get my second X41 now. Once both cards are AIO cooled I'm going to see what these cards can really do.


haha niceeee!!!!! I'm setting my stuff up right now!


----------



## curly haired boy

the h440 is designed for silent operation, but it looks clean enough that people wanna use it for superbeefy rigs. like me. i found that if your rad fans have enough static pressure, your temps should be fine.

of course, i have PWM deltas on my rad, so...


----------



## Quadrider10

fixed! i ended up cutting the tabs off the heat spreader and making the GPU contact the cooler directly eliminating the need for the shim. put it this way, with my NF-N12 fan at 100% gpu was hitting 70C. No better than stock cooler. Now after making direct contact, gpu just touches 52C. This is with the same fan at the same RPM at 1.24V. VRM temps just touch 60C. I call that a win!

EDIT:
So my final results- at 1280MHz core/ 7500MHz mem @ 1.24V = 62C Peak. what do you guys think? is this a good result on a H55 with 780Ti Kingpin?


----------



## photomatt32

I know that I am not yet an owner of a Kraken G10, but I am interested in getting one for my EVGA GTX 760 SC. This seemed like the best place to find information. My first question is whether or not anyone knows if this bracket is compatible with my graphics card listed above? Second, if it will work, can anyone tell me where I would need to add heatsinks on this pcb?
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/GTX_760_SC_ACX_Cooler/images/front.jpg
Also, how should the cables for the fans and pumps be connected? I have heard that a VGA to PWM connector could be used to connect the Kraken fan to the GPU for adaptive control. Wouldn't it make more sense to connect the pump to that since the GPU adjusts fan speeds based on core temperatures, or does the pump draw too much power? I am planning on using a corsair h55. Then would the rad fan jsut get plugged into a spare motherboard header.

Thanks so much for any help and advice!

Matthew S.


----------



## Wozzy

Well after some research I finally bought the setup and my god the difference.
After running my R9 290x on underclocked settings for 6 months because it kept overheating it's now running at 26 degrees Idle and caps at 48 whilst playing Titanfall and battlefield 4. To say I'm impressed is an understatement!
Went with a H75 for the dual AF120's over the single fan with the H55, shame you have to cut the cap on the H75 to fit with the NZXT fixings though.


----------



## KaputtEqu1pment

Hello Ladies and Gents,

I've got a couple of questions that i can't seem to find the answer to (i've read about 100+ pages of this megathread in the last day).

I've got a pair of 290x running in a xfire setup. The cards reach 95c EVERY TIME, all the TIME and begin to throttle. I can't have this anymore. I need to bring this down into 70's territory at least. So i ended up ordering 2 G10s, 2 H55s, 2 vga pwm adapters for the 92mm fan, 2 gelid vrm upgrade kits, a boatload of vram heatsinks, thermal tape and new tube of AS5 to stuff into my Corsair 780T. It seems like i had a grand plan, but it failed to launch.







After i mounted 1 G10 to the vga card and installed it, it turned out that the hoses of the h55 were not long enough to reach the front of my case.









Back to the drawing board:

I ended up ordering 2 Kraken x31s instead for the longer hoses--i'm just now waiting for them to arrive (ETA Tuesday).

In the meantime i've taken apart the g10/h55 combo and it turned out that my AS5 bled over to the little pins. I guess i applied too much TIM--i assumed i needed to cover the whole gpu die instead of like a vertical line/dot like i did on my cpu. I know that AS5 wasn't conductive, but i didn't find out till after I the whole install ordeal that it still shouldn't touch anything. I guess i dodged a bullet there.
















Here is a pic of what it looked like after I had taken h55 off. The as5 bled up into the little transistors.



So my question here: Should I stick with AS5 and redo the application with a pea size in the middle or should I go get a tube of Gelid Extreme? If i do go with gelid, should i cover the whole die or should i still just apply a pea sized dot? (i've been getting some conflicting information about this)

My next question is about the fan/pump connectors. I currently have a h80i cooling my cpu so my cpu header on the mobo is used up. I don't have 3 cpu headers on my mobo, but i do have 3 system fan headers on the mobo. My Mobo is a MSI 87 GD65 Gaming Edition. Will these be adequate to power the pump/fan (the fan of the x31 can plug into a header from the pump itself, and then there is another connection that would normally plug into a cpu header) Since i don't have enough open USB headers on my mobo i can't run the usb cable and i don't really want to either after what i've heard about the cam software being a whale on land. Also, will i be able to retain fan/pump speed control if i plug that into the system fan header on the mobo. What about the case fan headers? the 780t comes with some cabling that's powered off a single 4pin molex and it has some rudimentary 3 speed fan control by pushing a button on the top of the case. Will that be enough juice? What's my best option? Normally I'd just plug it into the nearest open port, but I was looking at my mobo manual and I was concerned about the pins being different. Have a look and let me know what this means.

Doesn't the X31 need a 12v supply? Help is appreciated as to how I can tackle this situation.

TLR paragraph above - what should i plug fan/pump into when i don't have enough CPU headers and want to retain speed control?

I'll post some pictures of this stuff later tonight when i get back home, and it might help clarify some of my concerns a bit.


----------



## VSG

Only way to find out if the in-built case fan control can power the pump is to try out and see for yourself. At worst you can get a fan controller.

I suppose it's finally time for me to join the club after all. A white G10 and x41 in the house:





I'll be testing out the G10 and the Corsair HG10 (among a few other things) on an R9 290 soon.


----------



## Wozzy

I had a similar issue with power supply although my board has 4 other fan headers I couldn't rig them to work correctly, probably my lack of bios knowledge is to blame.
In the end, I went to Maplins and bought a Sata adaptor for my PSU which has 4 4 pin female connectors and bought a MOLEX to 3 pin adaptor from ebay so they could be powered direct from the PSU.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/akasa-5-pwm-fans-from-single-pwm-header-cable-a96nl
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Pin-Molex-to-X-4-3-Pin-Fan-Adapter-Cable-4-x-12V-ALL-BLACK-/191457515747?
Second item I've just seen can be purchased from maplins although slightly more expensive.
Fans are little loud on full whack but with my headset on I can't hear them, there is a fan controller I'm looking at buying which if I remember is made by NZXT but I'm not sure, all I know is it fits in a drive bay and I think it's from a post on the NZXT 410 club I read. If I find the link I'll post back.

Just a taster of what you can expect, this is my current idle temp without the GELID kit as mine hasn't arrived yet 4 weeks on..


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *photomatt32*
> 
> I know that I am not yet an owner of a Kraken G10, but I am interested in getting one for my EVGA GTX 760 SC. This seemed like the best place to find information. My first question is whether or not anyone knows if this bracket is compatible with my graphics card listed above? Second, if it will work, can anyone tell me where I would need to add heatsinks on this pcb?
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/GTX_760_SC_ACX_Cooler/images/front.jpg




The large, flat chips around the GPU are the VRAM. You'll need heatsinks on those. Underneath the silver heatsink in this picture is the VRM, and if you don't already have heatsinks on them they will need it as well.

Quote:


> Also, how should the cables for the fans and pumps be connected? I have heard that a VGA to PWM connector could be used to connect the Kraken fan to the GPU for adaptive control. Wouldn't it make more sense to connect the pump to that since the GPU adjusts fan speeds based on core temperatures, or does the pump draw too much power? I am planning on using a corsair h55. Then would the rad fan jsut get plugged into a spare motherboard header.
> 
> Thanks so much for any help and advice!
> 
> Matthew S.


You can connect the G10 fan to the video card, Depending on the connector you may need an adapter. You'll want to connect the pump to the motherboard and make sure the motherboard is feeding that fan connection a steady 12V. (Full power) The pump needs the full 12V connection to run properly and the video card connection doesn't supply nearly enough voltage for it.


----------



## photomatt32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> 
> 
> The large, flat chips around the GPU are the VRAM. You'll need heatsinks on those. Underneath the silver heatsink in this picture is the VRM, and if you don't already have heatsinks on them they will need it as well.
> You can connect the G10 fan to the video card, Depending on the connector you may need an adapter. You'll want to connect the pump to the motherboard and make sure the motherboard is feeding that fan connection a steady 12V. (Full power) The pump needs the full 12V connection to run properly and the video card connection doesn't supply nearly enough voltage for it.


Thanks so much for the info about the wiring. The picture of the pcb that you included in your reply is not the same as the one I included in my post. I am attaching a picture of what I think needs heatsinks.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> 
> 
> The large, flat chips around the GPU are the VRAM. You'll need heatsinks on those. Underneath the silver heatsink in this picture is the VRM, and if you don't already have heatsinks on them they will need it as well.
> You can connect the G10 fan to the video card, Depending on the connector you may need an adapter. You'll want to connect the pump to the motherboard and make sure the motherboard is feeding that fan connection a steady 12V. (Full power) The pump needs the full 12V connection to run properly and the video card connection doesn't supply nearly enough voltage for it.


Couldn't you use a PWM splitter with molex and connect the pump to that or am I wrong? :\ I think Trondster did that and I was planning on doing that too unless I misread/misunderstood how he did his and the execution of it.

Also I'm assuming if you want the rpm lines to be read from the pump you'd have to plug that into the motherboard or into a fan controller that supports that correct?


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *photomatt32*
> 
> Thanks so much for the info about the wiring. The picture of the pcb that you included in your reply is not the same as the one I included in my post. I am attaching a picture of what I think needs heatsinks.


In your pic you need heatsinks on everything you circled red EXCEPT the silver rectangles.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Couldn't you use a PWM splitter with molex and connect the pump to that or am I wrong? :\ I think Trondster did that and I was planning on doing that too unless I misread/misunderstood how he did his and the execution of it.


You can connect the pump either way. It's designed to be plugged into a fan header on the motherboard, but you can connect it via molex connector just as easily. Molex is a straight 12V connection just like fan headers with a 3 prong connection.
Quote:


> Also I'm assuming if you want the rpm lines to be read from the pump you'd have to plug that into the motherboard or into a fan controller that supports that correct?


Yes, but depending on the AIO you choose the pump may not be intended for variable speed use. Most aren't. So you would want to feed the pump a steady 12V and not worry about the rpm of the pump. in fact I believe NZXT is the only AIO producer who makes pumps that are intended for variable speed use, and they include a USB connector for the motherboard for that purpose.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *photomatt32*
> 
> Thanks so much for the info about the wiring. The picture of the pcb that you included in your reply is not the same as the one I included in my post. I am attaching a picture of what I think needs heatsinks.


The only things that really need heatsinks are the VRMs, the row of black squares to the left. If they are already covered by a heatsink, then leave that heatsink in place.
The silver thingies to the left aren't important.
The larger black squares are the VRAM chips - cooling them is nice to have, but not necessary.

The important part is to cool the VRMs, which on your card is on the left. This is extra important for this card, as the G10 fan won't do anything to cool the VRM chips - the fan is on the other side of the GPU.


----------



## Jsmooth1992

So some of the members have recommended the cosmos aluminium heat sinks for the VRAM. These things are puny!!! Didn't realise how small they were until I saw them in real life.Thankfully VRAM doesn't require that much cooling right?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> You can connect the pump either way. It's designed to be plugged into a fan header on the motherboard, but you can connect it via molex connector just as easily. Molex is a straight 12V connection just like fan headers with a 3 prong connection.


Yeah I was planning on connecting it to a pwm splitter with molex but now I don't know... which I should connect it to lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Yes, but depending on the AIO you choose the pump may not be intended for variable speed use. Most aren't. So you would want to feed the pump a steady 12V and not worry about the rpm of the pump. in fact I believe NZXT is the only AIO producer who makes pumps that are intended for variable speed use, and they include a USB connector for the motherboard for that purpose.


And yes I have a NZXT Kraken X31 for that specific purpose and Also have a fan controller that actually supports pumps too and is designed for pumps and pwm fans so that helps alot! So I guess I'm going to plug it into my fan controller now but I'm unsure if I should or plug it into my GPU since I wanted my GPU to regulate my AIO. :\ Is it possible to do both, connecting it to my fan controller and my GPU or would that damage something?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> So some of the members have recommended the cosmos aluminium heat sinks for the VRAM. These things are puny!!! Didn't realise how small they were until I saw them in real life.Thankfully VRAM doesn't require that much cooling right?


I know I got those same ones and good thing I got some thermal tape since they don't include it! I was shocked how small they were lol :O


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Yeah I was planning on connecting it to a pwm splitter with molex but now I don't know... which I should connect it to lol.


It's entirely up to you. Both work equally as well.
Quote:


> And yes I have a NZXT Kraken X31 for that specific purpose and Also have a fan controller that actually supports pumps too and is designed for pumps and pwm fans so that helps alot! So I guess I'm going to plug it into my fan controller now but I'm unsure if I should or plug it into my GPU since I wanted my GPU to regulate my AIO. :\ Is it possible to do both, connecting it to my fan controller and my GPU or would that damage something?


DO NOT plug your pump or AIO fan into the GPU. The only fan you may want to plug into the GPU is the 92mm fan on the G10. The GPU header doesn't provide enough voltage for the pump or AIO fan.

Since you have a fan controller I would suggest plugging your pump into the fan controller and then plugging your AIO fan into the pump. I believe your pump actually has two fan connectors so you can plug the G10 fan into it as well. See how that works for you. You can always change it to a motherboard header or molex if you aren't happy with it.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> It's entirely up to you. Both work equally as well.


Well I was thinking of connecting it to the pwm splitter with molex which is then connected to my GPU... but then the post above you just said I couldnt, huh?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> DO NOT plug your pump or AIO fan into the GPU. The only fan you may want to plug into the GPU is the 92mm fan on the G10. The GPU header doesn't provide enough voltage for the pump or AIO fan.
> 
> Since you have a fan controller I would suggest plugging your pump into the fan controller and then plugging your AIO fan into the pump. I believe your pump actually has two fan connectors so you can plug the G10 fan into it as well. See how that works for you. You can always change it to a motherboard header or molex if you aren't happy with it.


I wasn't going to plug the AIO fans or the pump directly into the gpu! I was going to use a pwm splitter with a molex to plug into the GPU, if I was going that route -- wouldn't that be arlight? I thought you just said that was alright (the aio fans anyways)? And in regards to the pump the pump would be the same thing--I'd plug it first into a splitter with molex (either the pwm variant or 3 pin)--and then I'd plug it into the GPU. But I was wondering if it was possible to connect the pump to both the GPU and the fan controller at once using the splitter with molex connection?

And the main thing with the pump is I wanted the GPU to control the that specific pump's radiator fans and fan that's why I got the pwm splitter with molex. I'm just wondering if it's possible to connect the pump into both the GPU and the fan controller using the pwm splitter with molex at once? Or do I have to choose one or the other?

This is what I was going to do:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> See the previous couple of posts - they answer exactly all your questions. With the GPU fan header to regular fan header adapter, and an externally powered PWM splitter, you can run how many fans you like controlled by the GPU fan header. Run your radiator fans off the PWM splitter connected to the GPU fan header. Run the VRM fan either connected to the splitter (I did this, but then again I went the extra mile for VRM heatsink cooling) or at a constant 100% connected to a motherboard fan header...Get a set of heatsinks for the VRMs, unless there already is a heatsink or mid-plate on your card.


----------



## KaffieneKing

I personally have both my pump and G10 fan plugged directly into the mobo at 100% and have my 1 AIO fan plugged into the GPU so it spins up based on GPU core temp.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Well I was thinking of connecting it to the pwm splitter with molex which is then connected to my GPU... but then the post above you just said I couldnt, huh?
> I wasn't going to plug the AIO fans or the pump directly into the gpu! I was going to use a pwm splitter with a molex to plug into the GPU, if I was going that route -- wouldn't that be arlight? I thought you just said that was alright (the aio fans anyways)? And in regards to the pump the pump would be the same thing--I'd plug it first into a splitter with molex (either the pwm variant or 3 pin)--and then I'd plug it into the GPU. But I was wondering if it was possible to connect the pump to both the GPU and the fan controller at once using the splitter with molex connection?
> 
> And the main thing with the pump is I wanted the GPU to control the that specific pump's radiator fans and fan that's why I got the pwm splitter with molex. I'm just wondering if it's possible to connect the pump into both the GPU and the fan controller using the pwm splitter with molex at once? Or do I have to choose one or the other?
> 
> This is what I was going to do:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Well I was thinking of connecting it to the pwm splitter with molex which is then connected to my GPU... but then the post above you just said I couldnt, huh?
> I wasn't going to plug the AIO fans or the pump directly into the gpu! I was going to use a pwm splitter with a molex to plug into the GPU, if I was going that route -- wouldn't that be arlight? I thought you just said that was alright (the aio fans anyways)? And in regards to the pump the pump would be the same thing--I'd plug it first into a splitter with molex (either the pwm variant or 3 pin)--and then I'd plug it into the GPU. But I was wondering if it was possible to connect the pump to both the GPU and the fan controller at once using the splitter with molex connection?
> 
> And the main thing with the pump is I wanted the GPU to control the that specific pump's radiator fans and fan that's why I got the pwm splitter with molex. I'm just wondering if it's possible to connect the pump into both the GPU and the fan controller using the pwm splitter with molex at once? Or do I have to choose one or the other?
> 
> This is what I was going to do:


One of us is very confused.

So, you're saying you want to use a Y splitter so the molex can provide voltage to the fans AND the GPU can provide voltage to the fans?

Molex = 12V constant
GPU = XX Variable Voltage

1. if you connect the fan to both leads it's going to receive voltage from both sources. What is your total voltage going to be and will it exceed the fan limits?

2. How is the GPU going to control the fan speed if the Molex is providing a steady 12V which will make the fan run at a full 100% speed at all times? The GPU has no way to step down the voltage coming from the Molex.

3. How much control over pump and fan speed do you think the GPU will have once the GPU is water cooled and maintains temperatures below 60C?

In my experience with my own G10 and X41 it is best to connect the pump and AIO fan to either the motherboard fan header or a fan controller if you're wanting to alter the speed of the pump and fan, or connect to a molex connection if you're also going to use the USB connection to control pump and fan speeds. Only connect to the molex if you're wanting to run it at 100% speed at all time if you aren't using the USB connection to regulate the pump and fans. Using a Y splitter to connect to two different power sources at once will only increase the total voltage sent to your pump and fan, and your GPU can only control the amount of voltage coming from the GPU header, it has no control over the voltage sent from the molex, motherboard, or fan controller headers.

With the Kraken AIOs you can control the pump and fan speeds with a USB connection via software, but without that USB connection they operate just like any other electrical motor. Without the USB your only way of controlling the speed is to control the voltage sent to the motor, and your GPU can only regulate it's own voltage output, it cannot regulate the voltage sent from any other source.


----------



## Trondster

Swuell - as I've told you in PMs - please leave your fan controller out of this. You want the fan speeds to be controlled automatically from the GPU. Use your fan controller for your case fans, or use it to control any non-PWM radiator fans. For PWM radiator fans you rather want the GPU/CPU temperature to regulate it - not a random dial on a fan controller.
Do not connect the pump to a fan controller. It is made to be run at a constant 100%.

I have told you the way several times. Use the GPU header to fan header adapter and a powered PWM splitter. Connect the powered PWM splitter to the GPU header using the adaptor. Then connect the radiator fans to the PWM splitter.
Connect the pump to a motherboard fan header.
Connect the 92mm fan to a motherboard header to let it run at 100%, or connect it to the PWM splitter along with the radiator fans of you want it controlled by the GPU temperature - your choice.

You could in theory connect the pump to the powered PWM splitter - it is probably a three pin connector, and would thus ignore the PWM signal - but I'd rather plug it into a separate motherboard fan header to be able to monitor the pump RPM.

Edit: You do write that your fan controller supports pumps - you can plug your pump there if you want to monitor the constant RPM on your fan controller. I'd just plug it into the a motherboard fan header.
And - leave your fan controller out of the PWM splitter for the radiator fans.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Connect the 92mm fan to a motherboard header to let it run at 100%, or connect it to the PWM splitter along with the radiator fans of you want it controlled by the GPU temperature - your choice.


It is not a good idea to allow the G10 fan to be controlled by the GPU header as that responds to core temp, this will lead to high VRM temps


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> It is not a good idea to allow the G10 fan to be controlled by the GPU header as that responds to core temp, this will lead to high VRM temps


Depends on how well your VRMs are cooled - I put a lot of heatsinks on mine, on both sides of the card, and thus I have quite all right VRM temperatures even at lower fan speeds, but as a general rule I agree that it for many cards is a good idea to run the G10 fan at 100%


----------



## KaputtEqu1pment

Ok, in response to my initial post a page or two back i think i've figured a few things out, but i do have a few questions left: I'm going to connect the g10 fan to the vga adapter, set it to 90%ish on the afterburner. The kraken x31 fan/pump i want to connect to my motherboard sysfan headers. Im planning to cool 2 x 290x's in a crossfire and my cpu header is already occupied w/ a h80i.

.

My question is whether or not it will be an adequate source of power for the the pump/fan combo (the fan being plugged into the pump header and the pump cable into the mobo header). I don't care if it runs @ 100%. I want it to do that anyway. Will this be enough juice or will i have to deploy another rail from my psu so i can do molex > 4x fan splitter?

Also, another alternative: I do have a pwm y splitter cable. Will this be enough to power both x31's (with their fans attached) from my cpufan2 port?


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all would a Kraken fit in my sig rig? Also what cooler would be best? Just looking to bring down temps from 144hz WoW for hours on end not looking for a major or even any GPU OC. All my cables are managed so I have as much room as possible. The h100i is top mounted so I have room to place the kraken rad at the rear exhaust....or in the front that makes little sense.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Hey all would a Kraken fit in my sig rig? Also what cooler would be best? Just looking to bring down temps from 144hz WoW for hours on end not looking for a major or even any GPU OC. All my cables are managed so I have as much room as possible. The h100i is top mounted so I have room to place the kraken rad at the rear exhaust....or in the front that makes little sense.


Yes, the G10 would fit.

As far as the coolers go, in your case I would suggest the Corsair H90 (140mm) mounted in the front for maximum cooling, but if you're willing to accept slightly higher temps (around 5C higher) then you could go with the H55 (120mm) for around $40 less. Either one would keep your GPU well below the air cooling temperatures.

You could mount the coolers in the front or rear but you'll get better cooling with them in the front sucking in cool air from the outside than in the back blowing warm air from the case through them.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Yes, the G10 would fit.
> 
> As far as the coolers go, in your case I would suggest the Corsair H90 (140mm) mounted in the front for maximum cooling, but if you're willing to accept slightly higher temps (around 5C higher) then you could go with the H55 (120mm) for around $40 less. Either one would keep your GPU well below the air cooling temperatures.
> 
> You could mount the coolers in the front or rear but you'll get better cooling with them in the front sucking in cool air from the outside than in the back blowing warm air from the case through them.


Well then....thanks for the tip I would have assumed to exhaust the rad like my cpu. Cheers man


----------



## Trondster

The GPU radiator should always be set as exhaust - it generates a lot of heat!


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> The GPU radiator should always be set as exhaust - it generates a lot of heat!


Blanket, all encompassing statements are always wrong.

As you said, the GPU creates a lot of heat, so why would you think using the least efficient cooling method is the best? Especially in a case that otherwise has excellent airflow and no temperature issues?

More important, in a case that has poor airflow and does already have temperature issues you can actually make the problem worse by running significantly hotter air through the radiator, increasing GPU temperatures because the air flowing through the radiator is pre-heated rather than cool. Why do you think cars have their radiators in the front rather than attached to the exhaust pipe and letting the exhaust cool the engine?

If case temperatures are an issue, which they could be in a case as small as his, he would be better off running the GPU in the front as intake and if necessary using the CPU AIO for exhaust. It's twice the size so it can suck out hot air twice as fast which would reduce the internal temps more than using the GPU as the exhaust would.


----------



## Trondster

In just about all cases you want GPU rads like G10 rads as exhaust - the GPUs generate way more heat than CPUs, and you'd rather want that heat to be blown out of the case - not inside. You could often be better off using a CPU radiator as an intake fan, but the quite significant amount of heat dumped by a GPU is better off pumped out of a case.
I think you'd be hard pressed in deed to find a scenario where you want a G10 rad better used as an intake fan.
Sure - you could _maybe_ find a very special case - but in all general cases - set up the GPU rad for exhaust - not intake. You want to move the heat out of the case, not into the case.

The most significant heat delta will probably be on the two sides of the GPU radiator - if the temperature of the air sucked into the radiator is a couple of degrees warmer it won't matter that much, while you risk severe temperature issues in all the other components in the case if you blow the very hot air inside the case.

If you, as you say, have a case that already has temperature issues, you'd shoot yourself in the foot blowing the rather hot GPU rad air inside the case, increasing the temperature of everything else.

Please feel free search this thread for several cases with temperature issues that were solved by changing the GPU rad fans to be exhaust fans.

So - as a general rule - I would _definitely_ recommend setting the G10 rad fans as exhaust.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> One of us is very confused.
> 
> So, you're saying you want to use a Y splitter so the molex can provide voltage to the fans AND the GPU can provide voltage to the fans?
> 
> Molex = 12V constant
> GPU = XX Variable Voltage
> 
> 1. if you connect the fan to both leads it's going to receive voltage from both sources. What is your total voltage going to be and will it exceed the fan limits?
> 
> 2. How is the GPU going to control the fan speed if the Molex is providing a steady 12V which will make the fan run at a full 100% speed at all times? The GPU has no way to step down the voltage coming from the Molex.
> 
> 3. How much control over pump and fan speed do you think the GPU will have once the GPU is water cooled and maintains temperatures below 60C?
> 
> In my experience with my own G10 and X41 it is best to connect the pump and AIO fan to either the motherboard fan header or a fan controller if you're wanting to alter the speed of the pump and fan, or connect to a molex connection if you're also going to use the USB connection to control pump and fan speeds. Only connect to the molex if you're wanting to run it at 100% speed at all time if you aren't using the USB connection to regulate the pump and fans. Using a Y splitter to connect to two different power sources at once will only increase the total voltage sent to your pump and fan, and your GPU can only control the amount of voltage coming from the GPU header, it has no control over the voltage sent from the molex, motherboard, or fan controller headers.
> 
> With the Kraken AIOs you can control the pump and fan speeds with a USB connection via software, but without that USB connection they operate just like any other electrical motor. Without the USB your only way of controlling the speed is to control the voltage sent to the motor, and your GPU can only regulate it's own voltage output, it cannot regulate the voltage sent from any other source.


I actually don't know that's why I'm asking. I'm still confused with the whole splitter with molex... I've not used it yet until just buying it exclusively for this basically. I was told if I wanted the GPU to control the fans then I would need a pwm splitter cable with molex and to connect it that way so I thought I had to connect the molex (which would power my fans) and then connect the splitter to the fans and gpu which would then give me varying voltage also, unless I thought wrong?

1. How would I check the fan limits?
2. I don't know that's why I'm so confused lol. :| I was quoting trondster unless I was wrong he said that the molex would provide power to the fans but the speed could still be controlled by the GPU.
3. Not sure? :\

Sadly the Kraken X31 usb connection is practically useless--as the supposed variable speeds is not actually true via usb--it can only be done through voltage apparently







.
Oh. Now I'm just slightly confused since I was told if I got a gelid gpu fan to normal fan adapter with a pwm y splitter with molex connection than I could control my fans using my gpu... Is this not true at all? :|


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Swuell - as I've told you in PMs - please leave your fan controller out of this. You want the fan speeds to be controlled automatically from the GPU. Use your fan controller for your case fans, or use it to control any non-PWM radiator fans. For PWM radiator fans you rather want the GPU/CPU temperature to regulate it - not a random dial on a fan controller.
> Do not connect the pump to a fan controller. It is made to be run at a constant 100%.
> 
> I have told you the way several times. Use the GPU header to fan header adapter and a powered PWM splitter. Connect the powered PWM splitter to the GPU header using the adaptor. Then connect the radiator fans to the PWM splitter.
> Connect the pump to a motherboard fan header.
> Connect the 92mm fan to a motherboard header to let it run at 100%, or connect it to the PWM splitter along with the radiator fans of you want it controlled by the GPU temperature - your choice.
> 
> You could in theory connect the pump to the powered PWM splitter - it is probably a three pin connector, and would thus ignore the PWM signal - but I'd rather plug it into a separate motherboard fan header to be able to monitor the pump RPM.
> 
> Edit: You do write that your fan controller supports pumps - you can plug your pump there if you want to monitor the constant RPM on your fan controller. I'd just plug it into the a motherboard fan header.
> And - leave your fan controller out of the PWM splitter for the radiator fans.


Wasn't going to connect the pump to the fan controller. Except didn't the above-Moustang--just point out that, that would be two sources of voltages?? So if I were connecting the the molex and then fans into the pwm splitter with the molex would the fans be running 100% or would the GPU be controlling the fans since now I'm confused? For some reason Moustang said that the fans wouldn't be controlled by the pwm splitter with molex but instead due to the molex the fans would be at 100% instead... so which one is it??

Since somehow your post and his contradicts each others :|.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> In just about all cases you want GPU rads like G10 rads as exhaust - the GPUs generate way more heat than CPUs, and you'd rather want that heat to be blown out of the case - not inside. You could often be better off using a CPU radiator as an intake fan, but the quite significant amount of heat dumped by a GPU is better off pumped out of a case.
> I think you'd be hard pressed in deed to find a scenario where you want a G10 rad better used as an intake fan.
> Sure - you could _maybe_ find a very special case - but in all general cases - set up the GPU rad for exhaust - not intake. You want to move the heat out of the case, not into the case.
> 
> The most significant heat delta will probably be on the two sides of the GPU radiator - if the temperature of the air sucked into the radiator is a couple of degrees warmer it won't matter that much, while you risk severe temperature issues in all the other components in the case if you blow the very hot air inside the case.
> 
> If you, as you say, have a case that already has temperature issues, you'd shoot yourself in the foot blowing the rather hot GPU rad air inside the case, increasing the temperature of everything else.
> 
> Please feel free search this thread for several cases with temperature issues that were solved by changing the GPU rad fans to be exhaust fans.
> 
> So - as a general rule - I would _definitely_ recommend setting the G10 rad fans as exhaust.


I have mine set up as Intake since it's going to be in the front of the case and I don't have room for the aio to be at the back... And if I were to set it to exhaust instead of intake it would mess up my case airflow wouldn't it? Since I have the top as intake and my side as exhaust and my bottom as intake and my back as exhaust also.


----------



## Trondster

Controlling your fans via a molex powered PWM splitter:
The molex supplies power for all the fans.
One of the fans is connected to the "main jack" in the splitter. This fan will report the RPM back to the fan header.

All the fans will get the same PWM signal from the splitter. When they all get a signal to run at 100% speed, they will all run at 100% of their individual rated speeds. When they all get a signal to run at 50% of their rated speed, they will all run at 50% of their individual rated speeds.

Thus, they will all run like they were the only fan connected to the fan header, the difference is that only one of the RPM values will be reported back.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> One of us is very confused.
> 
> So, you're saying you want to use a Y splitter so the molex can provide voltage to the fans AND the GPU can provide voltage to the fans?
> 
> Molex = 12V constant
> GPU = XX Variable Voltage


..Or "both".








Why would the GPU fan header send a variable voltage? It will, like all "normal" fan headers, send a constant 12V, but in addition send a pulsating PWM signal to control the fan speed.
If you connected a non-PWM fan to the GPU fan header, it would (like all "normal" fan headers) cause the non-PWM fan to run at a constant 100% due to the constant 12V.

A powered Y splitter wouldn't use voltage from two different sources - it would bypass the voltage connectors from the fan header and just use the powered connector for powering the fans. It would get the PWM signal from the fan header and return the RPM signal to the fan header (the latter from only one of the connected fans), but it wouldn't be connected to two power sources at all.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I have mine set up as Intake since it's going to be in the front of the case and I don't have room for the aio to be at the back... And if I were to set it to exhaust instead of intake it would mess up my case airflow wouldn't it? Since I have the top as intake and my side as exhaust and my bottom as intake and my back as exhaust also.


Try both ways and check your temps while doing so. Use the configuration that give your case the lowest temps over all.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Controlling your fans via a molex powered PWM splitter:
> The molex supplies power for all the fans.
> One of the fans is connected to the "main jack" in the splitter. This fan will report the RPM back to the fan header.
> 
> All the fans will get the same PWM signal from the splitter. When they all get a signal to run at 100% speed, they will all run at 100% of their individual rated speeds. When they all get a signal to run at 50% of their rated speed, they will all run at 50% of their individual rated speeds.
> 
> Thus, they will all run like they were the only fan connected to the fan header, the difference is that only one of the RPM values will be reported back.


See I've never really messed much with pwm or fans in this case until around this time when I decided I needed some pwm fans and wanted my GPU to control them... so yeah all this is a bit tad confusing. I get what you're saying though and I was going to do what you had told me to do but then moustang had said that the two different sources would provide different voltages and I just don't want to mess anything up. :|
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> ..Or "both".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why would the GPU fan header send a variable voltage? It will, like all "normal" fan headers, send a constant 12V, but in addition send a pulsating PWM signal to control the fan speed.
> If you connected a non-PWM fan to the GPU fan header, it would (like all "normal" fan headers) cause the non-PWM fan to run at a constant 100% due to the constant 12V.
> 
> A powered Y splitter wouldn't use voltage from two different sources - it would bypass the voltage connectors from the fan header and just use the powered connector for powering the fans. It would get the PWM signal from the fan header and return the RPM signal to the fan header (the latter from only one of the connected fans), but it wouldn't be connected to two power sources at all.


so... who's right? I'm guessing you are? So then the original y pwm splitter with molex idea will still go? Nothing will blow up and the fans will still function according to the GPU if plugging in the fans into the pwm y splitter with molex? Unlike what Moustang said where he said if you were to do that the molex would still end up giving constant power and making the fans run 100% but I thought the molex was giving power to the fans and letting the gpu control the speed of the fans instead of just making the fans run at a constant 100 or am I wrong in that??

And ok from what you just said does that mean that it'll draw the power from the molex only and then get the pwm signal from the header?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Try both ways and check your temps while doing so. Use the configuration that give your case the lowest temps over all.


True true. I'll try it. Still have to figure out the whole pwm splitter thing first XD.


----------



## Trondster

A molex powered splitter will work just fine - moustang just argued against the idea that the y splitter would get power from two places simultaneously, and confused him-/herself in the process.

While some fan controllers supply variable voltages through their fan headers and use that to control non-PWM fans, regular fan headers on motherboards and graphic cards supply a constant 12V, and instead use the pulsating PWM signals to control the fan speed.

And yes - the molex powered PWM splitter works - I have two in my case, and all the rad fans spin up and down as they should - one controlled by the CPU fan header and one controlled by the GPU.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> A molex powered splitter will work just fine - moustang just argued against the idea that the y splitter would get power from two places simultaneously, and confused him-/herself in the process.
> 
> While some fan controllers supply variable voltages through their fan headers and use that to control non-PWM fans, regular fan headers on motherboards and graphic cards supply a constant 12V, and instead use the pulsating PWM signals to control the fan speed.


sooo your initial idea will work just fine and I won't blow any circuits lol?


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> sooo your initial idea will work just fine and I won't blow any circuits lol?


Yes.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Yes.


haha thanks!








Was just making sure was all lol. Didn't want to fry both my fans and my motherboard along with everthing else haha!







Including GPU!

Thanks!


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaputtEqu1pment*
> 
> Ok, in response to my initial post a page or two back i think i've figured a few things out, but i do have a few questions left: I'm going to connect the g10 fan to the vga adapter, set it to 90%ish on the afterburner. The kraken x31 fan/pump i want to connect to my motherboard sysfan headers. Im planning to cool 2 x 290x's in a crossfire and my cpu header is already occupied w/ a h80i.
> 
> My question is whether or not it will be an adequate source of power for the the pump/fan combo (the fan being plugged into the pump header and the pump cable into the mobo header). I don't care if it runs @ 100%. I want it to do that anyway. Will this be enough juice or will i have to deploy another rail from my psu so i can do molex > 4x fan splitter?
> 
> Also, another alternative: I do have a pwm y splitter cable. Will this be enough to power both x31's (with their fans attached) from my cpufan2 port?


Regarding the fan headers - try to see if you have the specs for both the fan headers and the fans, to see how many watts they are specified for. The safest route is to use a powered splitter to connect more than one item to each fan header.

To lessen the noise you could consider controlling the rad fans from the corresponding GPU fan headers.


----------



## KaputtEqu1pment

Trond,

The fan/pump combo should use little under 500mah from what I've figured. My only concern is whether or not the sysfan headers put out at least that much.

If the cpu2 fan header puts out at least 1amp I could split that to power 2 devices, right?


----------



## Trondster

I wouldn't use a single fan header to power two pumps and two fans - if you want them running at 100% I'd just get a powered splitter.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> In just about all cases you want GPU rads like G10 rads as exhaust


You're assuming that "in just about every case" you're mounting a single radiator in the top back of the case.

In just about every PC case cool air is taken in from the front and bottom and exhausted out the back top. This follows the natural heat rises principal and is incorporated into the basic design of virtually every case on the market. Air is taken in from the front-bottom and removed from the top-back.

So, if you mount your radiator in the front or bottom you want it to be an intake. Otherwise you're fighting against the airflow design of the case and the natural process of heat rising. Furthermore, you would be creating a negative airflow situation which tends to suck more dust into the case, and dust is really bad for heat dissipation.

Quote:


> I think you'd be hard pressed in deed to find a scenario where you want a G10 rad better used as an intake fan.
> Sure - you could _maybe_ find a very special case - but in all general cases - set up the GPU rad for exhaust - not intake. You want to move the heat out of the case, not into the case.


I think again, you're being way too blanket with your statement and what you say would only apply in a single GPU application with the radiator mounted in the rear exhaust port.

In my case I have a dual GPU setup which means two GPU radiators, both bottom mounted in the front of my case. Trying to set them as exhaust would totally disrupt the airflow through the case which would increase the heat of the motherboard and other components since they wouldn't be getting proper airflow.

Quote:


> The most significant heat delta will probably be on the two sides of the GPU radiator - if the temperature of the air sucked into the radiator is a couple of degrees warmer it won't matter that much, while you risk severe temperature issues in all the other components in the case if you blow the very hot air inside the case.


And when you came up with this belief you assumed the radiator was mounted in the front and/or bottom right? And if it was, and was blowing out, where is the cool air coming into the case from? The top, right in front of the rear exhaust fan? Where are you going to get cool air to the other components?

Quote:


> If you, as you say, have a case that already has temperature issues, you'd shoot yourself in the foot blowing the rather hot GPU rad air inside the case, increasing the temperature of everything else.


If you have a case that already has temperature issues the LAST thing you want to do is disrupt the airflow through the case by setting up your front fans as exhaust rather than intake, or adding an exhaust fan to the bottom rather than intake. I can assure you that the slightly warmer air blowing through the GPU radiator would be more than offset by removing the significantly hotter air radiating from a GPU heatsink but creating a vortex of stagnant air that continues to heat up in the middle of the case would make things MUCH worse.

You seem to have forgotten that very important aspect. The heat coming from the radiator will be half or less the temperature of the heat coming from an air cooled GPU, but you've got to maintain airflow through the case to cool the other components.

Quote:


> Please feel free search this thread for several cases with temperature issues that were solved by changing the GPU rad fans to be exhaust fans.
> 
> So - as a general rule - I would _definitely_ recommend setting the G10 rad fans as exhaust.


And as a general rule of thumb I would definitely recommend knowing the situation and application before you give advice.

This specific application calls for a front or bottom mounted radiator, and the advice you gave is bad and would result in poor to nearly zero airflow through the case and higher in-case temperatures. His top radiator will interfere with mounting the GPU radiator in the back, and if he reverses his CPU radiator airflow that air would be immediately sucked right back out by the rear exhaust fan. He only has the single front 140mm fan mount or the bottom of the case to install the GPU radiator.

Reversing the airflow in either of those two positions is acting in the opposite of the designed airflow of the case and the natural heat-rises philosophy. You would be sucking the coolest air out of the case and leave him with no intake fan to blow cool air into the case.


----------



## Trondster

You do realize, right, that the principle of "hot air rises" is a very, very slight tendency, and is only applicable if you do not have other fans controlling the air flow?
Read http://www.overclock.net/t/1394467/ocn-daves-air-cooling-guide-updated - and especially the section titled "Heat Rises and Cool Air Sinks Misconception".

The hottest heat source in the case will be the air expelled by the GPU radiator - you want that air pushed out of the case.

Try monitoring the heat levels in your own case where you have two GPU rads pushing really hot air into the case - try monitoring all the temps when the GPUs are under load with for example the Haven benchmark - monitor the VRM temps on the GPUs, the CPU temps etc.
Then try reversing the fans on the GPU rads - have a look at the fans and the airflow in the case and try a setup where the GPU rads are set as exhaust. You may have to reverse other fans too - make a good airflow design. Try it, and then put the GPUs under load again. See how the temps will be then.

Decrease heat on the motherboard components? Sure, we all want that. One way to achieve that is to avoid blowing really hot air across them.

There are many, many descriptions of this in this thread. Your call.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2030#post_23096686


----------



## MEC-777

The lower the air temp inside your PC chassis, the better. The GPU rad puts off A LOT of hot air and thus should be used as an exhaust, not intake.

There will be some special cases where, depending on number of GPUs being used and number/orientation of rad mount locations in the chassis will limit how and where the rads are mounted and thus force you to mount a GPU rad as an intake. But that scenario should be avoided if at all possible.

Cool air in through the front/bottom - Hot air out through the back/top.


----------



## combine1237

Hello, I recently got two krakens from tiger direct and plan on using them on an Asus dcuii 290x and an xfx 290x double dissipation black edition.do I need shims for these cards? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thank you.


----------



## Trondster

You don't need them for the Asus card, at least - and keep the backplate, just flip the G10 back bracket.


----------



## Hova

I should of posted these images a long time ago but here "was" my install








I recently changed it when I got a Raijintek Triton 240 for my CPU.
My System
-AMD 8320 at 4.6Ghz
-12Gb Ram 1600Mhz
-MSI R9 280x
-Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
-Corsair CS750M PSU


I was able to keep my GPU faceplate on to help reduce the heat on the VRAM and VRMs.

I'm sure I'll get some pictures of the new install at some point down the line


----------



## combine1237

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> You don't need them for the Asus card, at least - and keep the backplate, just flip the G10 back bracket.


So, the asus aftermarket 290x is confirmed to work with the back plate, that is good news. But no word on the xfx 290x dd pcb. Anyway thank you for your help, and so you are saying with the stock backplate on the gpu, all i need to do is flip the nzxt bracket so the nzxt logo faces the pcb (or in this case, the back plate pictured below) correct?

asus dcuii oc backplate


----------



## Trondster

See my DCUII conversion here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2370#post_23270549


----------



## DanielRS

How does the NZXT G10 works on a MSI N770 TF? I know its PCB is not the reference.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Moustang, stop it.

For the GPU + G10 Radiator, you always want it as exhaust. This is a blanket statement that applies to 99% of all scenarios. The heat that is being blown out of the radiator is very hot. You want that OUT of your case. If you have to change the direction of the airflow in your case, then do it. You want the G10/GPU radiator set to Exhaust. Period. Period. Period. There are so many examples on this thread alone of people getting dramatically lower temperatures just by switching from intake to exhaust.

SET YOUR G10 RADIATORS TO EXHAUST.


----------



## imabigmac

What have people used to attach their heatsinks to VRMS and Vram chips? Thermal tape or just pads. I have been under the impression you could use both, and both options had varying success.


----------



## llTheGOOSE

Hey Guys, I've just signed up here as i've posted a few questions in regards to the G10.

This pretty much sums if for me:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielRS*
> 
> How does the NZXT G10 works on a MSI N770 TF? I know its PCB is not the reference.


. I have an MSI Twin Frozr R9 280x, so would have a similar PCB shape. apart from that, i think that's about all i need to know!


----------



## combine1237

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> See my DCUII conversion here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2370#post_23270549


It looks like you needed a lot of thermal pad, what did you use may I ask? I f anyone else can help recommend a decent priced and performing pad I would be grateful as ~ over 25 USD of thermal pad for a card does not sound too appealing to me


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combine1237*
> 
> It looks like you needed a lot of thermal pad, what did you use may I ask? I f anyone else can help recommend a decent priced and performing pad I would be grateful as ~ over 25 USD of thermal pad for a card does not sound too appealing to me


Sekisui Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape

Cheap, and gets the job done very well.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielRS*
> 
> How does the NZXT G10 works on a MSI N770 TF? I know its PCB is not the reference.


The card is non-reference, but the PCB is reference I'm pretty sure.



The G10 looks to be compatible with this GPU. Keep the mid-plate!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llTheGOOSE*
> 
> Hey Guys, I've just signed up here as i've posted a few questions in regards to the G10.
> 
> This pretty much sums if for me:
> . I have an MSI Twin Frozr R9 280x, so would have a similar PCB shape. apart from that, i think that's about all i need to know!




Your GPU also looks to be compatible with the G10, it might need a copper shim though. It is hard to tell how much, if any elevation is there on the silver plate that is surrounding the GPU die. To air on the side of caution, I would purchase a very thin copper shim. 20mm x 20mm x .5mm - $2.50.

Also, since you are already ordering something from FrozenCPU, pick up this VGA to PWM adapter so that you can plug in the 92mm fan directly into your GPU. When you do this, make sure that you go into MSI afterburner, and set the fan to a constant 80-100% fan speed. The 92mm fan is for the VRMs, so it is very important that they are as cold as possible at all times. You don't want this fan spinning up and down based on the core temperature, you want it spinning at a constant 80-100%.

Lastly, you should consider buying some heatsinks for both sides of the GPU. While it is not required, it is strongly encouraged. Some inexpensive aluminum heatsinks are all you need. If you want to go with copper, go for it, but it will cost more, and they are much heavier, so they tend to fall off.

Cosmos Aluminum Heatsinks 20pcs - $6

Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape - $2.75

Cosmos Copper Heatsinks 8pcs - $7


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combine1237*
> 
> It looks like you needed a lot of thermal pad, what did you use may I ask? I f anyone else can help recommend a decent priced and performing pad I would be grateful as ~ over 25 USD of thermal pad for a card does not sound too appealing to me


I didn't "need" to use it as such - I just thought it would be a fun conversion.








I used this one: http://www.dx.com/p/diy-silicone-thermal-pad-heat-conduct-mat-for-heat-sink-grey-400mm-x-200mm-x-1mm-104609
The only important bit to cool is the row of VRMs. The VRAM heatsinks are nice to have, and the thermal pads on the back are just for fun. Although my VRMs probably are a couple of degrees cooler because of my small mod.
This pad isn't adhesive, but since I sandwiched it between the PCB and the backplate, it didn't matter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imabigmac*
> 
> What have people used to attach their heatsinks to VRMS and Vram chips? Thermal tape or just pads. I have been under the impression you could use both, and botth options had varying success.


I used thermal tape for all my heat sinks.


----------



## combine1237

It was you that did this guide on the LTT forums PinkoTheCommi


----------



## Trondster

The G10 is at $10 on tigerdirect again.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combine1237*
> 
> It was you that did this guide on the LTT forums PinkoTheCommi


Yup, it was!

"How To Water Cool a CPU + Single GPU for Under $200 USD Guide"


----------



## combine1237

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> The G10 is at $10 on tigerdirect again.


Yep posted that in the deals forum not to long ago.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> I didn't "need" to use it as such - I just thought it would be a fun conversion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used this one: http://www.dx.com/p/diy-silicone-thermal-pad-heat-conduct-mat-for-heat-sink-grey-400mm-x-200mm-x-1mm-104609
> The only important bit to cool is the row of VRMs. The VRAM heatsinks are nice to have, and the thermal pads on the back are just for fun. Although my VRMs probably are a couple of degrees cooler because of my small mod.
> This pad isn't adhesive, but since I sandwiched it between the PCB and the backplate, it didn't matter.
> I used thermal tape for all my heat sinks.


Also, how much thermal pad did you use for the main vrm, as it looks like it will take a while to get here from the warehouse. I was thinking about using fujipoly extreme for the main vrm on both my cards as it will supposedly transfer heat pretty good, my main gripe is the sheer amount of pads needed for the back plate. Also does the vrm heatsink have 2 screws or just one to tie it down to the pcb, and would this be enough a 100mm x 150mm x 1mm sheet for 2 main vrms(my asus 290x and xfx 290x(basically reference)?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16880/thr-165/Fujipoly_ModRight_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_Blister_Pack_-_14_Sheet_-_150_x_100_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html

Thanks again for all your help.

I gotta go to bed now.

Edit: double quote deleted


----------



## Trondster

The R9 DCUII VRM heatsink has two screws, connecting both the heatsink and PCB to the backplate.
The sheet you linked should be plenty for the VRMs.


----------



## llTheGOOSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Your GPU also looks to be compatible with the G10, it might need a copper shim though. It is hard to tell how much, if any elevation is there on the silver plate that is surrounding the GPU die. To air on the side of caution, I would purchase a very thin copper shim. 20mm x 20mm x .5mm - $2.50.
> 
> Also, since you are already ordering something from FrozenCPU, pick up this VGA to PWM adapter so that you can plug in the 92mm fan directly into your GPU. When you do this, make sure that you go into MSI afterburner, and set the fan to a constant 80-100% fan speed. The 92mm fan is for the VRMs, so it is very important that they are as cold as possible at all times. You don't want this fan spinning up and down based on the core temperature, you want it spinning at a constant 80-100%.
> 
> Lastly, you should consider buying some heatsinks for both sides of the GPU. While it is not required, it is strongly encouraged. Some inexpensive aluminum heatsinks are all you need. If you want to go with copper, go for it, but it will cost more, and they are much heavier, so they tend to fall off.
> 
> Cosmos Aluminum Heatsinks 20pcs - $6
> 
> Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape - $2.75
> 
> Cosmos Copper Heatsinks 8pcs - $7


Well i've just had a quick look to see if i can find anything online in regards to the PCB, and according to the link Here, The 280x Uses the Reference PCB. would that mean that i won't be needing the Shims?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llTheGOOSE*
> 
> Well i've just had a quick look to see if i can find anything online in regards to the PCB, and according to the link Here, The 280x Uses the Reference PCB. would that mean that i won't be needing the Shims?


Its not a question of reference PCB or not. Its a matter of something getting in the way of the copper block from making proper contact with the GPU's die. In that picture I showed you, did you see the silver outlining? I can't tell if it is elevated or not. I don't think you will need a shim, but it is best to air on the side of caution and just buy one, otherwise you will have everything all set up and be waiting on one tiny, inexpensive part that you could have just purchased from the beginning.

EDIT* Looking at the picture again, I don't think it is elevated much if at all. You should be fine without a shim. Hopefully someone else with this specific card can speak up and say for certain, but to the best of my abilities, I don't think you will need a shim, but if you want to be prepared, it wouldn't hurt to have one ready.


----------



## llTheGOOSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Its not a question of reference PCB or not. Its a matter of something getting in the way of the copper block from making proper contact with the GPU's die. In that picture I showed you, did you see the silver outlining? I can't tell if it is elevated or not. I don't think you will need a shim, but it is best to air on the side of caution and just buy one, otherwise you will have everything all set up and be waiting on one tiny, inexpensive part that you could have just purchased from the beginning.
> 
> EDIT* Looking at the picture again, I don't think it is elevated much if at all. You should be fine without a shim. Hopefully someone else with this specific card can speak up and say for certain, but to the best of my abilities, I don't think you will need a shim, but if you want to be p repared, it wouldn't hurt to have one ready.


Oh, okay. I just misunderstood you to mean that i would _need_ a shim.

Now, I'm not in North America. Time to find **** like that in AUS. Challenge Accepted!


----------



## llTheGOOSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Its not a question of reference PCB or not. Its a matter of something getting in the way of the copper block from making proper contact with the GPU's die. In that picture I showed you, did you see the silver outlining? I can't tell if it is elevated or not. I don't think you will need a shim, but it is best to air on the side of caution and just buy one, otherwise you will have everything all set up and be waiting on one tiny, inexpensive part that you could have just purchased from the beginning.
> 
> EDIT* Looking at the picture again, I don't think it is elevated much if at all. You should be fine without a shim. Hopefully someone else with this specific card can speak up and say for certain, but to the best of my abilities, I don't think you will need a shim, but if you want to be prepared, it wouldn't hurt to have one ready.


Couldn't find an edit button for my above post, so requoting.

I'm guessing the shim would sit on top of the GPU, under the pad for the Cooler? And held into place with thermal tape/Compound?


----------



## Trondster

The shim would be sandwiched in between the GPU and the cooler, with thermal compound between each layer.
But - you probably won't need one.


----------



## DanielRS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The card is non-reference, but the PCB is reference I'm pretty sure.
> 
> 
> 
> The G10 looks to be compatible with this GPU. Keep the mid-plate!


Woaw Nice! I won't even need to get VRM or memory heatsinks right?

Regards.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielRS*
> 
> Woaw Nice! I won't even need to get VRM or memory heatsinks right?


You should in theory be fine, but you could consider adding small heat sinks on the mid plate right on top of the VRMs.

And - verify that the mid plate is in contact with the VRM chips.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielRS*
> 
> Woaw Nice! I won't even need to get VRM or memory heatsinks right?
> 
> Regards.


No you wont, but it is encouraged nonetheless because it is so inexpensive.... if you live in the U.S.

The pack of 20 aluminum heatsinks I linked earlier is only $6 and comes with more than enough to cover your entire card. I have a mid plate on my EVGA GTX 780 SC, but I put heat sinks on it anyways just for peace of mind. Have never seen my VRMs exceed 54C according to Sentry 3 Fan Controller.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The card is non-reference, but the PCB is reference I'm pretty sure.
> 
> 
> 
> The G10 looks to be compatible with this GPU. Keep the mid-plate!


I have the MSI GTX 770 4GB Twin Frozr Gaming OC Edition. Exact same card.

Yes, the G10 fits on that without having to change a single thing. And yes, I kept the heat spreader plate in place. Mine also has a plate on the back which I also kept in place, and the only change I made to the G10 was to pull the rubber pad of it's backplate and have it installed on top of the MSI plate.

You shouldn't need to add heatsinks. You can if you want but the plate is a heat spreader. It does the same jobs the heatsink would do and works very well all by itself. In fact with the G10 the VRM will be cooler than with the MSI heatsink on it because the only air that it got with the MSI heatsink in place was the heated air that passed through the heatsink. With the G10 it will get fresh, cool air instead and VRM temperatures will be significantly lower.


----------



## moustang

Here's a picture of the back of my MSI GTX 770 4GB.



You can see that the only change I made was to remove the rubber pad off the G10 backplate.



I just peeled that rubber pad off. Other than that everything went on without a single problem or change to the hardware.


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Hey guys,

Looking at replacing the stock fan that came with the H55. I have the rad/fan mounted at the rear top of my case (NZXT Phantom 410). There's also a grille which covers that fan slot (not sure why....wish it was completely open), which means my fan and rad seem to be struggling to get the hot air out of the case. Temps have been pretty high, consistently around 70-80 degrees Celsius. So I wanted to ask a couple of questions:
1. Mount the rad outside of the case, and have the fan inside the case which means the grille sits between the rad and the fan. This probably isn't suitable but I'm scratching at straws here for better ideas lol.
2. Mount BOTH the fan and rad outside the case, so the it's grille, fan, rad from right to left. Not even sure if hose length is long enough for this








3. Any suggestions for a great high static pressure fan for rads? So far I've seen Corsair SP 120 PWM high performance/quiet editions, Scythe GT's I can't find here in Australia, EK Vardar 120's? (http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30317). Any suggestions from you guys?

Appreciate the advice, and thanks in advance!


----------



## Trondster

Try two fans - one inside with the rad, and one either outside or inside - fans on both sides of the radiator.

You could also dremel away the grille - I have removed three on my case..


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Looking at replacing the stock fan that came with the H55. I have the rad/fan mounted at the rear top of my case (NZXT Phantom 410). There's also a grille which covers that fan slot (not sure why....wish it was completely open), which means my fan and rad seem to be struggling to get the hot air out of the case. Temps have been pretty high, consistently around 70-80 degrees Celsius. So I wanted to ask a couple of questions:
> 1. Mount the rad outside of the case, and have the fan inside the case which means the grille sits between the rad and the fan. This probably isn't suitable but I'm scratching at straws here for better ideas lol.
> 2. Mount BOTH the fan and rad outside the case, so the it's grille, fan, rad from right to left. Not even sure if hose length is long enough for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Any suggestions for a great high static pressure fan for rads? So far I've seen Corsair SP 120 PWM high performance/quiet editions, Scythe GT's I can't find here in Australia, EK Vardar 120's? (http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30317). Any suggestions from you guys?
> 
> Appreciate the advice, and thanks in advance!


Turn the fan around and try it as an intake rather than exhaust.

Your problem may not be the grill it may be you're running hot air through the radiator. Especially if it's sucking hot air straight off a CPU heatsink. Try turning the fan around and see if it makes a difference.


----------



## Trondster

How is your intake? Do you have an intake fan in the front of your case?

Do you have a CPU rad? Is that set as intake or exhaust?
You'd definitely want the G10 rad as exhaust - the air is scorching hot!


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> How is your intake? Do you have an intake fan in the front of your case?
> 
> Do you have a CPU rad? Is that set as intake or exhaust?
> You'd definitely want the G10 rad as exhaust - the air is scorching hot!


It's already the exhaust and his GPU temps are obviously way too high.

I know this is going to be really hard to accept, but maybe you're just wrong here. Maybe your blanket statement just doesn't hold true in his case and he'll get lower temps by having it as an intake. After all, the point is to cool the GPU right? And having it as an exhaust isn't doing a good enough job. No matter how many times you say that's how he "definitely wants it" you're not solving the problem, are you? You're just telling him to leave it like it is, which is too hot.


----------



## llTheGOOSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> It's already the exhaust and his GPU temps are obviously way too high.
> 
> I know this is going to be really hard to accept, but maybe you're just wrong here. Maybe your blanket statement just doesn't hold true in his case and he'll get lower temps by having it as an intake. After all, the point is to cool the GPU right? And having it as an exhaust isn't doing a good enough job. No matter how many times you say that's how he "definitely wants it" you're not solving the problem, are you? You're just telling him to leave it like it is, which is too hot.


Well, to be fair, The GPU itself creates a fair bit of heat. To put the Rad as an Intake means you're plumbing that heat to the radiator and then feeding in into the case, raising ambient temps. It makes no sense to have it as an intake, as even though you're dragging cool air over the radiator, you're pushing the hot air back in.


----------



## markob53

Just wondering guys, I've had the G10 installed for a couple of months after struggling to get the right temps (after screwing it on hard, I finally saw decent temps) but my temps would always eventually hit the 70c mark, so to combat this i setup the fans in push/pull in the front of my H440 and now the max I've seen it is 60c after 10 hours of Shadow of Mordor and 53c after 3 hours on my 780TI.

My only concern is why do I need to have it in push/pull to see the benefit? I see many users on here getting good temps with a single fan setup, I have the rad mounted in the front as an intake just for placement and convenience but could this be the reason why I've had to go push/pull? And would I see a further drop in temps if I just had a single fan setup exhausting out the rear? If a single fan as an exhaust will give me the same temps as 2 fans in the front then i may just keep it as it just because it's a neater setup that way.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Looking at replacing the stock fan that came with the H55. I have the rad/fan mounted at the rear top of my case (NZXT Phantom 410). There's also a grille which covers that fan slot (not sure why....wish it was completely open), which means my fan and rad seem to be struggling to get the hot air out of the case. Temps have been pretty high, consistently around 70-80 degrees Celsius.


I chose the super secret option: go push - pull and mount it fan - rad - grill - fan (inside to out) if this makes sense to you? That way you will have the best of both worlds with hot aur being pushed through the rad and pulled out of the case. Yo improve even more you could dremel out the grill thus decreasing resistance to air flow, obviously not everyone wants to just remove bits of their case for whatever reason so its entirely up to you, normally I don't think it'd make a lot of difference but if you're really struggling to reduce temps I'd say if my first suggestion doesn't work give that a go. To get the fan cable neatly into the case you'll find it easiest to remove the pins from header(?) And thread the cables through a hole and then reinsert the pins. I have done this 'mod' and it is a lot cleaner than making a new hole to fit the header.

EDIT: Also make sure that you use a decent thermal paste and have the G10 fans at max as it's dead quiet anyway.

EDIT:EDIT: To Mark, I would try setting it up as an exhaust and experiment to see which gives the best temps, remember to look at all system temps before and after as it could be that you only see a small drop in GPU temps but a significant drop in other temps eg CPU, GPU vrms and mobo temps


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Turn the fan around and try it as an intake rather than exhaust.
> 
> Your problem may not be the grill it may be you're running hot air through the radiator. Especially if it's sucking hot air straight off a CPU heatsink. Try turning the fan around and see if it makes a difference.


Hey Moustang,
i have a Coolermaster Nepton 240m for my CPU, so I don't think my H55 is drawing too much hot air in. I don't think dumping all the GPU heat back in the case would help temps much








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> How is your intake? Do you have an intake fan in the front of your case?
> 
> Do you have a CPU rad? Is that set as intake or exhaust?
> You'd definitely want the G10 rad as exhaust - the air is scorching hot!


Hey Trondster, yeah I do. It's set as exhaust, at the top of my case. I also have 2 CM fans at the front for intake. At full blast they move about 65cfm so I don't think that's an issue. Definitely agree the H55 should be set as exhaust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> It's already the exhaust and his GPU temps are obviously way too high.
> 
> I know this is going to be really hard to accept, but maybe you're just wrong here. Maybe your blanket statement just doesn't hold true in his case and he'll get lower temps by having it as an intake. After all, the point is to cool the GPU right? And having it as an exhaust isn't doing a good enough job. No matter how many times you say that's how he "definitely wants it" you're not solving the problem, are you? You're just telling him to leave it like it is, which is too hot.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llTheGOOSE*
> 
> Well, to be fair, The GPU itself creates a fair bit of heat. To put the Rad as an Intake means you're plumbing that heat to the radiator and then feeding in into the case, raising ambient temps. It makes no sense to have it as an intake, as even though you're dragging cool air over the radiator, you're pushing the hot air back in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I chose the super secret option: go push - pull and mount it fan - rad - grill - fan (inside to out) if this makes sense to you? That way you will have the best of both worlds with hot aur being pushed through the rad and pulled out of the case. Yo improve even more you could dremel out the grill thus decreasing resistance to air flow, obviously not everyone wants to just remove bits of their case for whatever reason so its entirely up to you, normally I don't think it'd make a lot of difference but if you're really struggling to reduce temps I'd say if my first suggestion doesn't work give that a go. To get the fan cable neatly into the case you'll find it easiest to remove the pins from header(?) And thread the cables through a hole and then reinsert the pins. I have done this 'mod' and it is a lot cleaner than making a new hole to fit the header.
> 
> EDIT: Also make sure that you use a decent thermal paste and have the G10 fans at max as it's dead quiet anyway.


Thanks for this Kaffiene. I have decided to try mount the rad outside the case. It's going to go nothing, grill, fan in push (exhausting), rad, from the inside out. I will report back and see if this helps temps. I'm also going to grab a better fan (the Noctua Nf-F12 industrial PWM fan @ 2000rpm). The static pressure on this fan is about 1.5mm/H20 more than the stock Corsair fan. It's rated at around 3.94mm/H20 IIRC. I have a suspicion the rad is heatsoaking and suffocating as it is under my desk. I may try the computer on top of my desk where there is more fresh air when I move houses in a couple months.


----------



## c0nspire

Just recently added a g10 w/ H55 to my rig. I kept the ASUS backplate because i 1) liked how it looked, 2) wanted to try to keep some rigidity on the pcb and 3) wanted to keep the vrm heatsink without having to attach it with zap straps.

Also how tight is the g10 suppose to be? my g10 backplate only has 4 small nuts and 4 plastic washers that hold the posts in place, it isn't the same as some of the images I've seen online, as well the foam pad stick up higher than the washers. so even though I am pretty tight (fingers) the washers still don't touch the pcb, and i'm worried about tightening it too much.

it idles at about 34-40 (ambient being 32 in the case) and after about 15 minutes in unigine valley is floating around 70.
On to the pictures! This shows it venting in, but i currently have the h55 exhausting out the bottom, it is giving me the best ambient temps with little to no change in gpu cooling


----------



## Quadrider10

so i water cooled my 780ti kingpin with a kraken G10 and Corsair H90, CPU core is maxing at 56C, but VRMs are peaking at about 65C. i have both the VRM heat spreader and VRAM spreader on the card, but if i wanted to buy an exta heat sink for the VRMs, which one would fit?

for the record, i have the fan on the rear of the case as an intake. this gives me the lowest temps on the core, but higher CPU and VRM temps. if i flip the fan, i get higher GPU temps (60C) and lower VRM (55-60C) and CPU temps.

idk, i think 60C is kinda un-acceptable with water cooling on a 140mm Rad. so what should i do? just deal with the 60c on the core and lower vrm and cpu temps, or vise versa?

For the poster about the H440 case, im working with this case as well, and i too am having issues with cooling between my CPU and GPU rad. if i change one, it effects the other negitivily. but currently my setup is my CPU rad as an exhaust in the top front of the case, and my GPU rad in the rear as an intake. 1 exhaust fan at the top, 2 intake fans, and 1 fan i modded to mount to an HDD bay.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> so i water cooled my 780ti kingpin with a kraken G10 and Corsair H90, CPU core is maxing at 56C, but VRMs are peaking at about 65C. i have both the VRM heat spreader and VRAM spreader on the card, but if i wanted to buy an exta heat sink for the VRMs, which one would fit?
> 
> for the record, i have the fan on the rear of the case as an intake. this gives me the lowest temps on the core, but higher CPU and VRM temps. if i flip the fan, i get higher GPU temps (60C) and lower VRM (55-60C) and CPU temps.
> 
> idk, i think 60C is kinda un-acceptable with water cooling on a 140mm Rad. so what should i do? just deal with the 60c on the core and lower vrm and cpu temps, or vise versa?
> 
> For the poster about the H440 case, im working with this case as well, and i too am having issues with cooling between my CPU and GPU rad. if i change one, it effects the other negitivily. but currently my setup is my CPU rad as an exhaust in the top front of the case, and my GPU rad in the rear as an intake. 1 exhaust fan at the top, 2 intake fans, and 1 fan i modded to mount to an HDD bay.


Set your fan to exhaust. Also, go push/pull. Make sure that the 92mm fan for the VRMs is at or near 100%. The H440 suffers from bad airflow, so temperatures are just going to be a little higher than others. You could also try a higher end thermal paste.

The 780Ti KINGPIN has a midplate that interferes with contact being made. So a copper shim might be necessary. 20mm x 20mm x .8mm copper shim on FrozenCPU.com is $2.50. You could also add tiny aluminum heatsinks to the VRM midplate for an additional VRM temperature reduction.


----------



## Quadrider10

yea i just did that... i set it to exhaust, G10 fan is at 100%, and i have an additional 140mm fan mounted on a HDD sled pointed at the card. whats annoying is that if i take my front panel off, gpu hits 45C max.... so annoying.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Just wondering guys, I've had the G10 installed for a couple of months after struggling to get the right temps (after screwing it on hard, I finally saw decent temps) but my temps would always eventually hit the 70c mark, so to combat this i setup the fans in push/pull in the front of my H440 and now the max I've seen it is 60c after 10 hours of Shadow of Mordor and 53c after 3 hours on my 780TI.
> 
> My only concern is why do I need to have it in push/pull to see the benefit? I see many users on here getting good temps with a single fan setup, I have the rad mounted in the front as an intake just for placement and convenience but could this be the reason why I've had to go push/pull? And would I see a further drop in temps if I just had a single fan setup exhausting out the rear? If a single fan as an exhaust will give me the same temps as 2 fans in the front then i may just keep it as it just because it's a neater setup that way.


Which specific 780Ti do you own?

Set your fan to exhaust with push/pull in the rear. You are blowing hot air directly into your case with your current setup, this is not advised. Switching it to exhaust alone could solve all of your problems. The H440 is just a bad airflow case, so your temperatures are likely to be a little higher than others, but there are ways to mitigate this.

Set fans to exhaust in push/pull.
Certain GPUs need copper shims, what GPU do you have and I can find out if you need a shim.
You could also buy high end thermal paste if you really want to shave a few C off.

But most importantly, it sounds like you have a 780Ti that might require a copper shim. Be very careful with overtightening, cards have been damaged by this.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> yea i just did that... i set it to exhaust, G10 fan is at 100%, and i have an additional 140mm fan mounted on a HDD sled pointed at the card. whats annoying is that if i take my front panel off, gpu hits 45C max.... so annoying.


Ok, good. So setting your fan to exhaust fixed it?

Yea, the H440 is bad airflow... that is your main enemy it sounds like.


----------



## Quadrider10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Which specific 780Ti do you own?
> 
> Set your fan to exhaust with push/pull in the rear. You are blowing hot air directly into your case with your current setup, this is not advised. Switching it to exhaust alone could solve all of your problems. The H440 is just a bad airflow case, so your temperatures are likely to be a little higher than others, but there are ways to mitigate this.
> 
> Set fans to exhaust in push/pull.
> Certain GPUs need copper shims, what GPU do you have and I can find out if you need a shim.
> You could also buy high end thermal paste if you really want to shave a few C off.
> 
> But most importantly, it sounds like you have a 780Ti that might require a copper shim. Be very careful with overtightening, cards have been damaged by this.


i have the 780ti kingpin edition. in short, yes it needs a shim, and i did buy one, but it added 10C to the card. i ended up cutting off the tabs that interfered with the cooler and mounting the G10 directly to the die. i have a noctua 140mm fan on the ran in pull. i kinda dont want to buy another being that these things cost $25 each.

Well "fixed", no. 60C on water is way high IMO, but honestly i have 2 options. fan intake= cool GPU, high cpu and vrm or fan exhaust= high gpu, cool cpu and vrm. i guess its fine now, but later on, if i do decide to OC more, i will need to mod my front panel for the better temps unfortunately. im using arctic silver MX-2 thermal paste. ive been screwing with every single possible configuration since Christmas day, and the only thing that yields decent gpu temps is having the fan as an intake, but of course, the h90 hoses wont reach front of case.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> i have the 780ti kingpin edition. in short, yes it needs a shim, and i did buy one, but it added 10C to the card. i ended up cutting off the tabs that interfered with the cooler and mounting the G10 directly to the die. i have a noctua 140mm fan on the ran in pull. i kinda dont want to buy another being that these things cost $25 each.
> 
> Well "fixed", no. 60C on water is way high IMO, but honestly i have 2 options. fan intake= cool GPU, high cpu and vrm or fan exhaust= high gpu, cool cpu and vrm. i guess its fine now, but later on, if i do decide to OC more, i will need to mod my front panel for the better temps unfortunately. im using arctic silver MX-2 thermal paste.


Is it a high static pressure noctua fan? If you have an air flow fan, and not a static pressure fan, that can cause a problem. I would also use it in push, not pull. Is your pump at 100% speed?

That is surprising a shim caused a 10C increase in temps. Did you use thermal paste on both sides? I use a shim myself and never see 50C on my EVGA GTX 780 SC.

How much of an overclock do you have?


----------



## Quadrider10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Is it a high static pressure noctua fan? If you have an air flow fan, and not a static pressure fan, that can cause a problem. I would also use it in push, not pull. Is your pump at 100% speed?
> 
> That is surprising a shim caused a 10C increase in temps. Did you use thermal paste on both sides? I use a shim myself and never see 50C on my EVGA GTX 780 SC.
> 
> How much of an overclock do you have?


heres my fan... ill try in push, but damn are they ugly!!!! lol it performs a lot better than h90 stock fan.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608044

pump is conected directly to a 12V molex connector.

currently on stock voltage of 1.214V im at 1280mhz on the core and 7600mhz on the memory.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> heres my fan... ill try in push, but damn are they ugly!!!! lol it performs a lot better than h90 stock fan.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608044
> 
> pump is conected directly to a 12V molex connector.
> 
> currently on stock voltage of 1.214V im at 1280mhz on the core and 7600mhz on the memory.


I'm not too versed in Noctua fans, but the SP rating on that is only 2.08 mm/H20, and that is at full 1500rpm. I would definitely set it to push, and have it at max speed.

1.214 is higher than many others use. A KINGPIN is a true overclocking beast, so it will run hotter. My GPU is 1.162v at stock, so take that into consideration.

First try setting it to push, with fan at maximum RPM, see if that makes a difference. If not, then you could buy a 2nd fan, doesn't necessarily have to buy Noctua, but if you do go Noctua, I recommend the NF-A14 Industrial that has a potential 4.18 mm/H20 at max speed.

This is the king of airflow I am working with in my case:



Here are my temps during a 5 hour long Battlefield 4 session. Settings for BF4 are 1920x1080, Ultra everything, 4x MSAA, 120% Resolution Scale, 80% FoV, with V-Sync On. Using an i5-4670k OC'd to 4.5Ghz @ 1.160v cooled by the Seidon 240M at 1350rpm(90%) Pump speed and 1250rpm(50%) Fan speed(2 fans in push). My EVGA GTX 780 SC is cooled by NZXT Kraken G10 and X31 AIO with 2 Fans in Push/Pull. The X31's pump speed is at 1500rpm(90%), and Fans at 1500rpm(65%). The G10's 92mm Fan is cooling the VRMs at a constant 2400rpm(75%) and according to my NZXT Sentry3 Fan Controller, I have never seen them exceed 54C. My case is the Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Ambient temperature is 23.8C/75F. It does help that my case is underneath the A/C Vent, so keep that in mind too.


----------



## Quadrider10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm not too versed in Noctua fans, but the SP rating on that is only 2.08 mm/H20, and that is at full 1500rpm. I would definitely set it to push, and have it at max speed.
> 
> 1.214 is higher than many others use. A KINGPIN is a true overclocking beast, so it will run hotter. My GPU is 1.162v at stock, so take that into consideration.
> 
> First try setting it to push, with fan at maximum RPM, see if that makes a difference. If not, then you could buy a 2nd fan, doesn't necessarily have to buy Noctua, but if you do go Noctua, I recommend the NF-A14 Industrial that has a potential 4.18 mm/H20 at max speed.
> 
> This is the king of airflow I am working with in my case:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my temps during a 5 hour long Battlefield 4 session. Settings for BF4 are 1920x1080, Ultra everything, 4x MSAA, 120% Resolution Scale, 80% FoV, with V-Sync On. Using an i5-4670k OC'd to 4.5Ghz @ 1.160v cooled by the Seidon 240M at 1350rpm(90%) Pump speed and 1250rpm(50%) Fan speed(2 fans in push). My EVGA GTX 780 SC is cooled by NZXT Kraken G10 and X31 AIO with 2 Fans in Push/Pull. The X31's pump speed is at 1500rpm(90%), and Fans at 1500rpm(65%). The G10's 92mm Fan is cooling the VRMs at a constant 2400rpm(75%) and according to my NZXT Sentry3 Fan Controller, I have never seen them exceed 54C. My case is the Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Ambient temperature is 23.8C/75F. It does help that my case is underneath the A/C Vent, so keep that in mind too.


ill have to check voltage... its been a while but im pretty sure its at 1.214v. ill try push tomorrow.

damn, your temps are great! my CPU temps max at 65C on hottest core on my h80i and 3770k at 4.4Ghz (1.184V).

i play completely maxed out at 1080p with 150% resolution scale.

nice rig btw! very clean!


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> Just recently added a g10 w/ H55 to my rig. I kept the ASUS backplate because i 1) liked how it looked, 2) wanted to try to keep some rigidity on the pcb and 3) wanted to keep the vrm heatsink without having to attach it with zap straps.
> 
> Also how tight is the g10 suppose to be? my g10 backplate only has 4 small nuts and 4 plastic washers that hold the posts in place, it isn't the same as some of the images I've seen online, as well the foam pad stick up higher than the washers. so even though I am pretty tight (fingers) the washers still don't touch the pcb, and i'm worried about tightening it too much.
> 
> it idles at about 34-40 (ambient being 32 in the case) and after about 15 minutes in unigine valley is floating around 70.
> On to the pictures! This shows it venting in, but i currently have the h55 exhausting out the bottom, it is giving me the best ambient temps with little to no change in gpu cooling


With the backplate you don't need the plastic washers nor the foam. You could just skip the plastic washers, and you could either remove the foam or flip the back bracket.
The foam and the washers are to make sure the bracket doesn't touch the PCB, but with a backplate they won't be necessary.

But - don't take your cooler apart to remove them - it doesn't matter that much.


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> With the backplate you don't need the plastic washers nor the foam. You could just skip the plastic washers, and you could either remove the foam or flip the back bracket.
> The foam and the washers are to make sure the bracket doesn't touch the PCB, but with a backplate they won't be necessary.
> 
> But - don't take your cooler apart to remove them - it doesn't matter that much.


but what about all the chips under the back plate, right now the foam is depressed into them. I don't think the nuts that came with it are tall enough to clear the components (but then again they might be). Its kind of really hard to tell whats going on under thenzxt backplate with the asus backplate obstructing the view.

Are many people removing the foam from the plate all together or flipping the plate? i imagine it could contribute to some heat gain at the pcb as it restricts air flow

i was expecting my backplate (and hardware) to look like this

http://www.pcper.com/files/review/2014-03-14/IMG_9194_0.JPG

however you can see mine here, assembled.

The foam pad is quite robust and there are only the 4 nuts + 4 washers seen here:
http://i.imgur.com/PoUB5If.jpg


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> ill have to check voltage... its been a while but im pretty sure its at 1.214v. ill try push tomorrow.
> 
> damn, your temps are great! my CPU temps max at 65C on hottest core on my h80i and 3770k at 4.4Ghz (1.184V).
> 
> i play completely maxed out at 1080p with 150% resolution scale.
> 
> nice rig btw! very clean!


The 150% resolution scale is whats doing it. Turn that way down and your temps will subside.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> but what about all the chips under the back plate, right now the foam is depressed into them. I don't think the nuts that came with it are tall enough to clear the components (but then again they might be). Its kind of really hard to tell whats going on under thenzxt backplate with the asus backplate obstructing the view.
> 
> Are many people removing the foam from the plate all together or flipping the plate? i imagine it could contribute to some heat gain at the pcb as it restricts air flow
> 
> i was expecting my backplate (and hardware) to look like this
> 
> http://www.pcper.com/files/review/2014-03-14/IMG_9194_0.JPG
> 
> however you can see mine here, assembled.
> 
> The foam pad is quite robust and there are only the 4 nuts + 4 washers seen here:
> http://i.imgur.com/PoUB5If.jpg


I took a fileting knife and thinned out my foam pad in order to use it with my EVGA backplate. Wear gloves, and have an electric sharpener nearby.


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I took a fileting knife and thinned out my foam pad in order to use it with my EVGA backplate. Wear gloves, and have an electric sharpener nearby.


is the general consensus that the backplate hardware/spacers should be touching the pcb? because right now mine is floating (i can spin the pvc washers)

i could see that over time if the foam compresses or deteriorates the water block will loosen from the board.

Being a carpenter i have a lot of heavy duty olfa blades at my disposal, I would be able to remove the pad easily enough, or cut it in half.

Would a better option to be go and pick up some 1/8" washers and fill the space between the backplate and the nut?


----------



## Trondster

The G10 backplate
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> but what about all the chips under the back plate, right now the foam is depressed into them. I don't think the nuts that came with it are tall enough to clear the components (but then again they might be). Its kind of really hard to tell whats going on under thenzxt backplate with the asus backplate obstructing the view.
> 
> Are many people removing the foam from the plate all together or flipping the plate? i imagine it could contribute to some heat gain at the pcb as it restricts air flow
> 
> i was expecting my backplate (and hardware) to look like this
> 
> http://www.pcper.com/files/review/2014-03-14/IMG_9194_0.JPG
> 
> however you can see mine here, assembled.
> 
> The foam pad is quite robust and there are only the 4 nuts + 4 washers seen here:
> http://i.imgur.com/PoUB5If.jpg


Ah - I did not see on my cell phone that the backplate was that different from mine - yes, you'll need the bracket, then - my bad.








My Asus backplate is on one piece, with no hole on the back of the GPU, and so the bracket will only press against the backplate and not any components.


----------



## Ultisym

You actually do not even need the NZXT back plate with the existing ASUS back plate. I skipped it all together on both of my Direct CU II 770s and my GTX 970s. Secured fine, cools fine.


----------



## MEC-777

I'm seeing more and more pics of the G10 backplate with those little spacers on the bolts. When I had the G10 installed on both my 7950 and R9 290, I didn't use any such spacers and the foam pad on the backplate is what made contact with the PCB (and small components on the back of the PCB). Neither of these cards had a PCB backplate but I'm wondering now if I even had the nzxt backplate installed correctly? Is the foam pad supposed to press directly against the back of the PCB (and present components) or are there supposed to be spacers so it doesn't touch?

GPU Temps on both cards were great, so I know the waterblock on the H55 was making proper contact.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I'm seeing more and more pics of the G10 backplate with those little spacers on the bolts. When I had the G10 installed on both my 7950 and R9 290, I didn't use any such spacers and the foam pad on the backplate is what made contact with the PCB (and small components on the back of the PCB). Neither of these cards had a PCB backplate but I'm wondering now if I even had the nzxt backplate installed correctly? Is the foam pad supposed to press directly against the back of the PCB (and present components) or are there supposed to be spacers so it doesn't touch?
> 
> GPU Temps on both cards were great, so I know the waterblock on the H55 was making proper contact.


Yes the foam pad goes directly against the back of the GPU. Using spacers would be fine too as long as they are not conductive


----------



## SgtRotty

hello! im trying to figure out what to use on my 92mm fan that came with the g10 bracket. the fan header on the msi780 is a 4pin connector, and the fan is a 3pin. how do i connect it so i can adjust the fan thru afterburner? or should i have it plugged into power directly for a 100% power/speed?


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Which specific 780Ti do you own?
> 
> Set your fan to exhaust with push/pull in the rear. You are blowing hot air directly into your case with your current setup, this is not advised. Switching it to exhaust alone could solve all of your problems. The H440 is just a bad airflow case, so your temperatures are likely to be a little higher than others, but there are ways to mitigate this.
> 
> Set fans to exhaust in push/pull.
> Certain GPUs need copper shims, what GPU do you have and I can find out if you need a shim.
> You could also buy high end thermal paste if you really want to shave a few C off.
> 
> But most importantly, it sounds like you have a 780Ti that might require a copper shim. Be very careful with overtightening, cards have been damaged by this.


I have the MSI Twin Frozr version of the card which i believe doesn't require any copper shims, i definitely tighted it quite tight but that's because i was having major issues seeing any sort of improvement, in fact it was worse, i seem to remember getting 40-50 idle temps, now it idles at around 20c.

Are there any disadvantages for the rest of my case cooling in putting the rad at the rear exhausting? because at the moment i have a single 140mm fan exhausting hot air out of my case and i've always thought if i stuck a 120mm and a hot radiator in its place then this would mean any hot air in my case would have to go through the rad, rather than straight through the 140mm fan i have now (if that makes sense)

Are temps in the 50's not pretty good though when pushing my card to it's limit or should i be getting even lower?


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtRotty*
> 
> hello! im trying to figure out what to use on my 92mm fan that came with the g10 bracket. the fan header on the msi780 is a 4pin connector, and the fan is a 3pin. how do i connect it so i can adjust the fan thru afterburner? or should i have it plugged into power directly for a 100% power/speed?


I had this issue, i think you just have to connect the fan to one of your 3 or 4 pin mobo connectors then control the fan speed in the BIOS. I have mine set to 100% and i can't hear it at all.


----------



## SgtRotty

thanks for the quick reply, im gonna need a fan controller it looks like! getting ready to hook up both of my gpus with this g10 setup with h55s

how many case fans can i interconnect together on a motherboard fan header? i will have 10 fans total with with the 2 radiator fans, 2 VRM fans, and 6 case fans. my cpu is occupying the 2 cpu fan headers. also i have the 2 pump plugs


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtRotty*
> 
> thanks for the quick reply, im gonna need a fan controller it looks like! getting ready to hook up both of my gpus with this g10 setup with h55s
> 
> how many case fans can i interconnect together on a motherboard fan header? i will have 10 fans total with with the 2 radiator fans, 2 VRM fans, and 6 case fans. my cpu is occupying the 2 cpu fan headers. also i have the 2 pump plugs


Can't you just connect the G10 fan to one of the motherboard headers? a 3 pin connector will work fine on a motherboard 4 pin header.

I don't know exactly how many fans you can safely attach to one header (it depends on the motherboard, mine is an Asus Maximus VII Hero) but i currently have 4 fans going into one header on my motherboard, my front 3 case fans (one of which is attached to my H55 rad) and the other fan on the H55 rad pulling air through, and i've had no problems.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtRotty*
> 
> thanks for the quick reply, im gonna need a fan controller it looks like! getting ready to hook up both of my gpus with this g10 setup with h55s
> 
> how many case fans can i interconnect together on a motherboard fan header? i will have 10 fans total with with the 2 radiator fans, 2 VRM fans, and 6 case fans. my cpu is occupying the 2 cpu fan headers. also i have the 2 pump plugs


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Can't you just connect the G10 fan to one of the motherboard headers? a 3 pin connector will work fine on a motherboard 4 pin header.
> 
> I don't know exactly how many fans you can safely attach to one header (it depends on the motherboard, mine is an Asus Maximus VII Hero) but i currently have 4 fans going into one header on my motherboard, my front 3 case fans (one of which is attached to my H55 rad) and the other fan on the H55 rad pulling air through, and i've had no problems.


I just run the H55 pump and 92mm nzxt VRM fan directly off a 12v molex connector. The pump needs to run at 100% (12v) anyways and the 92mm nzxt fan is nearly silent at 12v. Two birds with one stone and leaves your motherboard headers open for use with your case fans etc.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I just run the H55 pump and 92mm nzxt VRM fan directly off a 12v molex connector. The pump needs to run at 100% (12v) anyways and the 92mm nzxt fan is nearly silent at 12v. Two birds with one stone and leaves your motherboard headers open for use with your case fans etc.


That will work. Im partial to fan controllers though so I can set the optimal fan speeds. And alter the ones that need it on the fly. But i tend to be hands on with this stuff.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> That will work. Im partial to fan controllers though so I can set the optimal fan speeds. And alter the ones that need it on the fly. But i tend to be hands on with this stuff.


Yeah, I like to control the intake and exhaust fans as they're a lot louder at 100% (which I do with the Node 304's built-in 3-position fan controller). But the VRM fan is so quiet at 100% I don't mind letting it run at max, plus it keeps the VRMs nice and chilly at all times.


----------



## SgtRotty

thanks yall! much appreciated!


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I just run the H55 pump and 92mm nzxt VRM fan directly off a 12v molex connector. The pump needs to run at 100% (12v) anyways and the 92mm nzxt fan is nearly silent at 12v. Two birds with one stone and leaves your motherboard headers open for use with your case fans etc.


I never even thought to run them straight to the PSU, that would be a lot easier. Something like this would do the job?
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-136-BX

Is it better to have a dedicated molex connection for the fans or can i connect them onto the molex splitter i already have powering another device?


----------



## Quadrider10

Hmmm, I never used the backplate on the kraken. Maybe I should try it. Currently I just have longer screws. Maybe I'll try and redo it with the backplate. I have an EVGA classss780ti kingpin so it has its own backplate, VRAM heat spreader, and VRM heat spreader.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I have the MSI Twin Frozr version of the card which i believe doesn't require any copper shims, i definitely tighted it quite tight but that's because i was having major issues seeing any sort of improvement, in fact it was worse, i seem to remember getting 40-50 idle temps, now it idles at around 20c.
> 
> Are there any disadvantages for the rest of my case cooling in putting the rad at the rear exhausting? because at the moment i have a single 140mm fan exhausting hot air out of my case and i've always thought if i stuck a 120mm and a hot radiator in its place then this would mean any hot air in my case would have to go through the rad, rather than straight through the 140mm fan i have now (if that makes sense)
> 
> Are temps in the 50's not pretty good though when pushing my card to it's limit or should i be getting even lower?


If you're idling in the 20s, and max temps are in the mid to high 50s, then that is normal. I would still experiment with using the radiator as rear exhaust, as it could very easily lower temperatures. As it is, you are blowing extremely hot air into your case, making the internal components hotter than they would be if that hot air was being exhausted out of the case directly.


----------



## SgtRotty

Is it best to have the VRM fan blowing in or outwards??


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I never even thought to run them straight to the PSU, that would be a lot easier. Something like this would do the job?
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-136-BX
> 
> Is it better to have a dedicated molex connection for the fans or can i connect them onto the molex splitter i already have powering another device?


That's the exact molex to 3-pin splitter I'm using.









The pump and 92mm fan shouldn't draw too much juice, so you'd probably be fine, but it also depends what else you have running off that lead...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtRotty*
> 
> Is it best to have the VRM fan blowing in or outwards??


You'll want to have it blowing onto the VRMs not away from them.


----------



## Quadrider10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> That's the exact molex to 3-pin splitter I'm using.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump and 92mm fan shouldn't draw too much juice, so you'd probably be fine, but it also depends what else you have running off that lead...
> You'll want to have it blowing onto the VRMs not away from them.


i have 2 pumps, and 5 fans running off one 12v molex cable from my psu, its 750W, but it works np and has no issues.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtRotty*
> 
> Is it best to have the VRM fan blowing in or outwards??


You want it blowing ON the VRMs.


----------



## SgtRotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> i have 2 pumps, and 5 fans running off one 12v molex cable from my psu, its 750W, but it works np and has no issues.


This is a answer i was looking for! I shall order 2 of those splitters! Im a idiot also, pointed the fan outwards!


----------



## eBombzor

On, not out.


----------



## Quadrider10

i finally got my temps under control! hitting about 55C on my 780Ti kingpin @ 1280MHz/7602Mhz 1.214V and about 60C on the VRMs. thanks for all your help guys!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> i finally got my temps under control! hitting about 55C on my 780Ti kingpin @ 1280MHz/7602Mhz 1.214V and about 60C on the VRMs. thanks for all your help guys!


What fixed it?

Changing resolution scale down from 150%?

Switching it to exhaust?

Both?


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> You shouldn't need to add heatsinks. You can if you want but the plate is a heat spreader. It does the same jobs the heatsink would do and works very well all by itself. In fact with the G10 the VRM will be cooler than with the MSI heatsink on it because the only air that it got with the MSI heatsink in place was the heated air that passed through the heatsink. With the G10 it will get fresh, cool air instead and VRM temperatures will be significantly lower.


That is - unless you set the G10 radiator as intake - then you get the heated air inside the case anyway - in many cases blown straight towards the GPU.

I quite agree that the VRMs will be cooler if the G10 fan blows cool air at them - but air blown through a GPU radiator is not "cool air". It is "very hot air".


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> If you're idling in the 20s, and max temps are in the mid to high 50s, then that is normal. I would still experiment with using the radiator as rear exhaust, as it could very easily lower temperatures. As it is, you are blowing extremely hot air into your case, making the internal components hotter than they would be if that hot air was being exhausted out of the case directly.


Thanks, yeah when I boot my computer up it's usually around 18c and I don't think I've seen it higher than 26c on idle (most likely there has been some small usage to get it there) and the lowest I've seen it is 13c at boot, it is cold this time of year though.

It is good to know I'm getting normal temps but I can't help thinking I should be getting those sort of numbers on a single fan setup, so I will try it as an exhaust and hopefully I see further improvement.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> That's the exact molex to 3-pin splitter I'm using.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump and 92mm fan shouldn't draw too much juice, so you'd probably be fine, but it also depends what else you have running off that lead...
> You'll want to have it blowing onto the VRMs not away from them.


Great, I will definitely make the switch then, frees up some headers on the motherboard like you say and just makes it easier having 2 less fans to monitor in the BIOS, which I don't need to monitor at all if they're running at 100%.


----------



## Quadrider10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> What fixed it?
> 
> Changing resolution scale down from 150%?
> 
> Switching it to exhaust?
> 
> Both?


Couple things. I set it up as eexhaust with a push config. I also tore off the foam on the nzxt backplate and used it along with Tue mounting screws and nuts. Previously I just had longer screws with washers. So there was no even pressure and it could wiggle. I did the same with the cpu as well. Set that can in push exhaust out the top. Few degrees lower in temps.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrider10*
> 
> Couple things. I set it up as eexhaust with a push config. I also tore off the foam on the nzxt backplate and used it along with Tue mounting screws and nuts. Previously I just had longer screws with washers. So there was no even pressure and it could wiggle. I did the same with the cpu as well. Set that can in push exhaust out the top. Few degrees lower in temps.


Sounds good - a nice, even pressure is quite important!


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> That is - unless you set the G10 radiator as intake - then you get the heated air inside the case anyway - in many cases blown straight towards the GPU.
> 
> I quite agree that the VRMs will be cooler if the G10 fan blows cool air at them - but air blown through a GPU radiator is not "cool air". It is "very hot air".


The air coming out of my radiators is 32C (with 26C ambient). Hardly what I would call "very hot".

Especially when compared to the 60+C air that the VRM was exposed to with the air cooler that blew air through the heatsink that was only .7cm above the VRM and then on to the VRM. Or have you forgotten how the cooling was with the heatsink/fan combo that was originally installed on the card?



I can assure you the air coming out of your radiator is no where near the temperature of the air coming through that heatsink when the GPU was running at 80C+. Not even remotely close.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> If you're idling in the 20s, and max temps are in the mid to high 50s, then that is normal. I would still experiment with using the radiator as rear exhaust, as it could very easily lower temperatures. As it is, you are blowing extremely hot air into your case, making the internal components hotter than they would be if that hot air was being exhausted out of the case directly.


Do me a favor...

Measure the ambient air in your room.

Then setup your GPU radiator as intake and measure the temperature of the air coming out of the radiator from 3 inches away.

Tell me both temperatures.

I want to see what your idea of "extremely hot" is.

Considering the liquid running through the radiator will typically be around 20C cooler than the GPU at load, and the air coming through the radiator will be 10-15C lower than the liquid inside of it, I suspect this "extremely hot" air claim is extremely incorrect. Based on my own measurements, under full load it's around 6C hotter than ambient.


----------



## SgtRotty

I appreciate the help and all the info! Took some serious thinking ands some beers to figure out the whole layout. Rewired every fan and such. Before on air both cards were idleing 49c/44c. Loads at 1200mhz on bf4 were around 77c/65c, now on a load bf4 52c/47c peak!


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtRotty*
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the help and all the info! Took some serious thinking ands some beers to figure out the whole layout. Rewired every fan and such. Before on air both cards were idleing 49c/44c. Loads at 1200mhz on bf4 were around 77c/65c, now on a load bf4 52c/47c peak!


What case is that? looks quite spacious.


----------



## SgtRotty

INWIN GRone


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Do me a favor...
> 
> Measure the ambient air in your room.
> 
> Then setup your GPU radiator as intake and measure the temperature of the air coming out of the radiator from 3 inches away.
> 
> Tell me both temperatures.
> 
> I want to see what your idea of "extremely hot" is.
> 
> Considering the liquid running through the radiator will typically be around 20C cooler than the GPU at load, and the air coming through the radiator will be 10-15C lower than the liquid inside of it, I suspect this "extremely hot" air claim is extremely incorrect. Based on my own measurements, under full load it's around 6C hotter than ambient.


Ambient is 23.8C/75F.

I had my radiator set as intake, and I was getting high temperatures. I did some experimenting and found that when the radiator was set to exhaust, my temperatures miraculously dropped by 10C. The only thing I changed was direction of the fans. You can feel how hot the air is when your GPU is under full load and expelling that hot air out. I don't know the exact temperature, but it was hot enough that common sense tells you to get that hot air OUT of your case, not blowing inside of it. It is much hotter than 6C above ambient.

Moustang, give it up. Everyone, literally everyone on this forum is telling you the same thing, from experience. We just helped two people in the past few pages with their temperatures by switching from intake to exhaust. Stop telling people to set it as intake, this is WRONG. Throughout this entire thread there are so many people who say my temperatures are too high, who then flip from intake to exhaust and it solves the problem. If it somehow works for you, that is surprising, but good, whatever works for you. For the rest of the people doing this mod, 99% of them are going to benefit from the hot air being pushed out of their case not into it.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ambient is 23.8C/75F.
> 
> I had my radiator set as intake, and I was getting high temperatures. I did some experimenting and found that when the radiator was set to exhaust, my temperatures miraculously dropped by 10C. The only thing I changed was direction of the fans. You can feel how hot the air is when your GPU is under full load and expelling that hot air out. I don't know the exact temperature, but it was hot enough that common sense tells you to get that hot air OUT of your case, not blowing inside of it. It is much hotter than 6C above ambient.
> 
> Moustang, give it up. Everyone, literally everyone on this forum is telling you the same thing, from experience. We just helped two people in the past few pages with their temperatures by switching from intake to exhaust. Stop telling people to set it as intake, this is WRONG. Throughout this entire thread there are so many people who say my temperatures are too high, who then flip from intake to exhaust and it solves the problem. If it somehow works for you, that is surprising, but good, whatever works for you. For the rest of the people doing this mod, 99% of them are going to benefit from the hot air being pushed out of their case not into it.


Yep, +1 to all of this. Best solution is to have the GPU rad at the back of your case and set to *exhaust.* You want cool, fresh air being pulled in and hot air being pushed out.









With the G10 + H55 on my 7950, under heavy loads the GPU would rarely exceed 53 degrees C, but I could barely leave my hand on the rad - it gets _that_ hot!


----------



## Ultisym

I cant even believe its seriously being argued. Common sense.


----------



## VSG

I didn't find a Kraken cooler club here so I figured someone here might be able to help me. I am midway through testing and reviewing the G10 and x41 here. Everything's mostly peachy as far as GPU cooling goes. But the x41 as a CPU cooler takes power for the pump from a CPU 4 pin PWM header, stays at a constant 12v there and also provides power to upto 2 fans (1 of which is provided). Now here's my dilemma- the pump consumes ~0.25 A max, and each fan consumes 0.6 A. Most fan headers on motherboards, including the CPU headers, provide 1 A of power continuously. So has anyone tried doing push-pull on the x41 radiator with another fan identical to the provided one?

On a side note, you can indeed undervolt the pump and fans if you hook up the 3 pin header to a fan controller but of course that's a bad idea. Don't do it









Edit: Went ahead and tested the fan. It consumed a max of 0.17 A and not 0.6 A, while being within advertised RPM specs. I guess I need to call up NZXT tomorrow and figure out what's going on.


----------



## combine1237

Is there any method of how to remove thermal pads and vram/ vrm heatsink from xfx dd 290x?


----------



## combine1237

nevermind, it is easiest to peel from the front I found out.


----------



## combine1237

Would ph-ndc or arctic mx-4 be better for a gpu as thermal paste?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I didn't find a Kraken cooler club here so I figured someone here might be able to help me. I am midway through testing and reviewing the G10 and x41 here. Everything's mostly peachy as far as GPU cooling goes. But the x41 as a CPU cooler takes power for the pump from a CPU 4 pin PWM header, stays at a constant 12v there and also provides power to upto 2 fans (1 of which is provided). Now here's my dilemma- the pump consumes ~0.25 A max, and each fan consumes 0.6 A. Most fan headers on motherboards, including the CPU headers, provide 1 A of power continuously. So has anyone tried doing push-pull on the x41 radiator with another fan identical to the provided one?
> 
> On a side note, you can indeed undervolt the pump and fans if you hook up the 3 pin header to a fan controller but of course that's a bad idea. Don't do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Went ahead and tested the fan. It consumed a max of 0.17 A and not 0.6 A, while being within advertised RPM specs. I guess I need to call up NZXT tomorrow and figure out what's going on.


Hey geggeg, its Faceman from LTT. I use an X31, not X41 so I will try and answer any questions best I can. I do use push/pull, but I use the Cooler Master Blade Master 120mms, not the included stock fan. I have the X31's pump + 2 fan splitter connected to a chassis fan header on my Asus Z97-AR and I control it through RPM mode in Fan Xpert. When I am idling, I set it to the minimum 900rpm, when I am playing a game that actually requires some GPU horsepower, I set it to 1500rpm. According to Fan Xpert, the max speed of the pump fan header is ~1800. I never exceed that 1500rpm limit, because it just gets too loud for my liking, and my temperatures are so good at the 1500rpm/83% constant speed that I have no need to push it further.

Let me know if theres anything else I can assist with. I'm really looking forward to your review of this product! I think its a hidden gem that got a lot of bad publicity because of that pugeut review and people haven't gotten past the whole "its too hot on the VRMs" thing.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combine1237*
> 
> Would ph-ndc or arctic mx-4 be better for a gpu as thermal paste?


MX-4 I would think. Just remember to spread it out on the GPU die and use more than you would on a CPU. The GPU's die is a little bit larger, and the mounting pressure is not as much as a CPU cooler, so spreading it yourself is recommended. At least thats how I did it and I am very happy with my temperatures even though I am using a shim.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Hey geggeg, its Faceman from LTT. I use an X31, not X41 so I will try and answer any questions best I can. I do use push/pull, but I use the Cooler Master Blade Master 120mms, not the included stock fan. I have the X31's pump + 2 fan splitter connected to a chassis fan header on my Asus Z97-AR and I control it through RPM mode in Fan Xpert. When I am idling, I set it to the minimum 900rpm, when I am playing a game that actually requires some GPU horsepower, I set it to 1500rpm. According to Fan Xpert, the max speed of the pump fan header is ~1800. I never exceed that 1500rpm limit, because it just gets too loud for my liking, and my temperatures are so good at the 1500rpm/83% constant speed that I have no need to push it further.
> 
> Let me know if theres anything else I can assist with. I'm really looking forward to your review of this product! I think its a hidden gem that got a lot of bad publicity because of that pugeut review and people haven't gotten past the whole "its too hot on the VRMs" thing.


Hey man. I haven't forgotten about your fan btw! When you are using RPM mode in fan expert, is it undervolting to achieve said control? If so, you may want to get that on PWM because NZXT guys were stressing real hard about not undervolting the pump for long term activity.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey man. I haven't forgotten about your fan btw! When you are using RPM mode in fan expert, is it undervolting to achieve said control? If so, you may want to get that on PWM because NZXT guys were stressing real hard about not undervolting the pump for long term activity.


How could I check to see if it is undervolting the pump? The problem with PWM, is that the speed fluctuates as much as +/- 200rpm, but usually +/- 100rpm. Whereas with RPM Mode, it is a +/- 50rpm.

I just switched it to Smart Mode with a high minimum until I learn more. I wish Fan Xpert could monitor the temperature of the GPU. Unfortunately it only lets you monitor through CPU, PCH, Motherboard, and Sensor 1.

EDIT* I'm now frantically researching this because I don't want to damage anything. I came across this article awhile ago when I was trying to get my Phanteks PWM Hub to work properly(I never got it working to a satisfactory level). It talks about how most Asus motherboard chassis fan headers are not true PWM like the CPU fan is. I do have my X31 plugged into one of these chassis fan headers, and the pump is 3-pin, not 4-pin.

Here is the article

It sounds like I should be ok, but I'm a novice when it comes to fans and voltages, so if you wouldn't mind, could you look over it please to reaffirm that it gives a constant 100% to fans and motors please?


----------



## VSG

Yeah that's the issue with using AIOs on GPU brackets- their wires are not long enough to reach the CPU headers (if they are free anyway) and most boards still don't offer full PWM on all the headers. Talk to Raja or Praz in the Intel motherboards section and see if they can clarify.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah that's the issue with using AIOs on GPU brackets- their wires are not long enough to reach the CPU headers (if they are free anyway) and most boards still don't offer full PWM on all the headers. Talk to Raja or Praz in the Intel motherboards section and see if they can clarify.


I could make it reach, its just that I prefer having my AIO for my CPU actually on the CPU header.

What did NZXT say would happen if it was for whatever reason its being undervolted? I have it running at a decent clip, approximately 85-90%, so its not a big undervolt if any.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I could make it reach, its just that I prefer having my AIO for my CPU actually on the CPU header.
> 
> What did NZXT say would happen if it was for whatever reason its being undervolted? I have it running at a decent clip, approximately 85-90%, so its not a big undervolt if any.


To be honest, I still don't understand how they are taking a 3 pin header power for the pump as well as up to two 4 pin PWM fans, and then use the USB connection for RPM. It makes so little sense to me to not have the tach sensor on the 3 pin header itself. I can hook up the 3 pin header to my Aquaero and use power mode to slow down the pump and fan(s) as desired but that's undervolting. RPM mode there is also undervolting. I don't know how it works on motherboards and I bet it varies from board to board too.

They said using it on anything other than a PWM header will likely void warranty and undervolting is not at all recommended for the pump's activity with time. I will have to call them up again in an hour or so when they open up to confirm this and a few other things.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> To be honest, I still don't understand how they are taking a 3 pin header power for the pump as well as up to two 4 pin PWM fans, and then use the USB connection for RPM. It makes so little sense to me to not have the tach sensor on the 3 pin header itself. I can hook up the 3 pin header to my Aquaero and use power mode to slow down the pump and fan(s) as desired but that's undervolting. RPM mode there is also undervolting. I don't know how it works on motherboards and I bet it varies from board to board too.
> 
> They said using it on anything other than a PWM header will likely void warranty and undervolting is not at all recommended for the pump's activity with time. I will have to call them up again in an hour or so when they open up to confirm this and a few other things.


You're the best dude, thank you! Yea, it really confuses me as well. I don't like the design of it, and CAM is really a joke in my opinion. Its only useful purpose is changing the LED color if you own a model that has LED.

I think I will revert back to RPM mode because I don't like the ramping up and down of the fan speed. I prefer the constant 1500rpm rather than the occasional swing from 1300 to 1700.

Is it even possible for them to check to see if it was undervolted if I had to send it in via RMA?


----------



## VSG

Well, CAM helped me plot the pump RPM response curve so that's something. It's got a few weird things in it but definitely has improved from the time I saw it at launch.

No idea about the RMA part, sorry.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well, CAM helped me plot the pump RPM response curve so that's something. It's got a few weird things in it but definitely has improved from the time I saw it at launch.
> 
> No idea about the RMA part, sorry.


Hmm.. CAM didn't let me plot the pump RPMs. It wasn't even controllable. Maybe they updated it. I will have to redownload it.


----------



## VSG

There's a manual mode where you can choose the power of the system (pump + fan) from 25 to 100% in increments of 5%. It displays the pump RPM there also. Recording it manually gives the data for the plot.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There's a manual mode where you can choose the power of the system (pump + fan) from 25 to 100% in increments of 5%. It displays the pump RPM there also. Recording it manually gives the data for the plot.


Oh yea, thats the same. There was an update, but nothing dramatically changed. I still prefer to use Fan Xpert. If it works for you, thats great, I didn't have much luck. Possibly because Fan Xpert and CAM where sending interfering signals.


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Hey guys I'm in need some help!

I've got my radiator fan for my H55 plugged into my GPU via a Gelid PWM fan adaptor for VGA cooler fan cable. When I start the computer the fan won't start, and even after I do some adjustments in MSI AB the fan refuses to start. Any ideas? I know the cable is working because it's brand new and doesn't look like it's damaged in anyway (it's actually a replacement from Gelid).

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Trondster

Try testing the fan in a motherboard fan header and see if it spins up then.


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Try testing the fan in a motherboard fan header and see if it spins up then.


Hey Trondster, yes I've tried that. It works, and I've fiddled with some of the fan speeds and can confirm it speeds up and down as a PWM fan should. It's only when I plug the radiator fan (a Noctua NF-F12 Industrial 2000rpm PWM) into the GPU header via the Gelid PWM fan adaptor for VGA cooler fan cable that the Noctua fan does not work. Any thoughts?


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> It's entirely up to you. Both work equally as well.
> DO NOT plug your pump or AIO fan into the GPU. The only fan you may want to plug into the GPU is the 92mm fan on the G10. The GPU header doesn't provide enough voltage for the pump or AIO fan.
> 
> Since you have a fan controller I would suggest plugging your pump into the fan controller and then plugging your AIO fan into the pump. I believe your pump actually has two fan connectors so you can plug the G10 fan into it as well. See how that works for you. You can always change it to a motherboard header or molex if you aren't happy with it.


ARGHHHH I think I found this out the hard way. My Noctua NF-F12 2000rpm PWM fan does not start when I plug it into my R9 290 GPU fan header using an adapter cable. I guess this is a good warning to future users wanting to do the same thing lol. Time to plug it into a fan controller......if that's the case then I don't think any fan is worth plugging into the GPU fan header. You're better off controlling all fans using a fan controller as that is the only way you'll be able to SOMEWHAT adjust fan speed on the fly. Plugging any fan into a mobo fan header means it's speed is fixed correct? And there's no point setting a fan curve in your BIOS as I'm pretty sure fan headers on the Mobo respond to CPU temps?

Sorry for rambling lol but I figured dumping my thoughts would help future users avoid mistakes!


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> ARGHHHH I think I found this out the hard way. My Noctua NF-F12 2000rpm PWM fan does not start when I plug it into my R9 290 GPU fan header using an adapter cable. I guess this is a good warning to future users wanting to do the same thing lol. Time to plug it into a fan controller......if that's the case then I don't think any fan is worth plugging into the GPU fan header. You're better off controlling all fans using a fan controller as that is the only way you'll be able to SOMEWHAT adjust fan speed on the fly. Plugging any fan into a mobo fan header means it's speed is fixed correct? And there's no point setting a fan curve in your BIOS as I'm pretty sure fan headers on the Mobo respond to CPU temps?
> 
> Sorry for rambling lol but I figured dumping my thoughts would help future users avoid mistakes!


The industrial fan probably tries to draw more current than the fan header can provide - try plugging the stock H55 fan into the GPU fan header to check if the fan header is broken.
If the fan header works with other fans you could try a powered fan splitter - then you can let the GPU software spin the fan up and down as required according to the GPU temperature.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> You're better off controlling all fans using a fan controller as that is the only way you'll be able to SOMEWHAT adjust fan speed on the fly. Plugging any fan into a mobo fan header means it's speed is fixed correct? And there's no point setting a fan curve in your BIOS as I'm pretty sure fan headers on the Mobo respond to CPU temps?


I actually run two fan controllers that handle five fans each. It takes a little time and effort but I simply came up with three fan profiles custom tuned to average use/moderate game play, high demand game play and benchmarking. It has worked out much better for me than the various programs both third party and MB/GPU vendor. All three pumps are of course plugged into the mainboard. As usual, YMMV.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> ARGHHHH I think I found this out the hard way. My Noctua NF-F12 2000rpm PWM fan does not start when I plug it into my R9 290 GPU fan header using an adapter cable. I guess this is a good warning to future users wanting to do the same thing lol. Time to plug it into a fan controller......if that's the case then I don't think any fan is worth plugging into the GPU fan header. You're better off controlling all fans using a fan controller as that is the only way you'll be able to SOMEWHAT adjust fan speed on the fly. Plugging any fan into a mobo fan header means it's speed is fixed correct? And there's no point setting a fan curve in your BIOS as I'm pretty sure fan headers on the Mobo respond to CPU temps?
> 
> Sorry for rambling lol but I figured dumping my thoughts would help future users avoid mistakes!


Don't run anything off of the GPU fan header via adapter other than a 92mm fan for the VRMs. Once you have the 92mm fan hooked up to the GPU, go into afterburner and set the speed to a constant RPM at 85%-100%. This fan NEEDs to be at a high speed in order to cool down the VRMs. No fan curve, no adaptive, just a constant high speed to keep the VRMs cool. This tiny fan makes no noise even at full 100% RPM.

Plug your pump into either molex or motherboard and have it running at full 100%. Then your radiator fan should be plugged into motherboard or fan controller. Don't set it up on a curve unless your curve can be dependent upon GPU temperature. Otherwise, keep it at a steady, 50-100% RPM.


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> The industrial fan probably tries to draw more current than the fan header can provide - try plugging the stock H55 fan into the GPU fan header to check if the fan header is broken.
> If the fan header works with other fans you could try a powered fan splitter - then you can let the GPU software spin the fan up and down as required according to the GPU temperature.


Hey Trondster!

Yeah it probs does. I will check the stock H55 fan but I doubt it would work since it looks like it needs more current than the Noctua (0.15A compared to 0.1A for the Noctua). Would you mind linking me an example of the powered fan splitter? How do those work, like how would the GPU software (MSI AB in my case) be able to control fan speed if the fan is connected to a powered fan splitter?


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Don't run anything off of the GPU fan header via adapter other than a 92mm fan for the VRMs. Once you have the 92mm fan hooked up to the GPU, go into afterburner and set the speed to a constant RPM at 85%-100%. This fan NEEDs to be at a high speed in order to cool down the VRMs. No fan curve, no adaptive, just a constant high speed to keep the VRMs cool. This tiny fan makes no noise even at full 100% RPM.
> 
> Plug your pump into either molex or motherboard and have it running at full 100%. Then your radiator fan should be plugged into motherboard or fan controller. Don't set it up on a curve unless your curve can be dependent upon GPU temperature. Otherwise, keep it at a steady, 50-100% RPM.


Hey Pinko,

Yeah I won't. The fact that the fan doens't even start means that there's too much resistance and the GPU fan header would burn out pretty soon I'm sure! I'm investigating Trondster's suggestion of a powered fan splitter to see if that would work. My 92mm fan is plugged into a mobo fan header and set to run around 80-100%. Pump is already directly plugged into PSU. I just want my rad fan to ramp up and down according to GPU temp....since it gets kind of loud around 90% and I want the cooling performance only when I'm gaming. 50-70% is good for noise, but needs to be higher for games.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> Hey Pinko,
> 
> Yeah I won't. The fact that the fan doens't even start means that there's too much resistance and the GPU fan header would burn out pretty soon I'm sure! I'm investigating Trondster's suggestion of a powered fan splitter to see if that would work. My 92mm fan is plugged into a mobo fan header and set to run around 80-100%. Pump is already directly plugged into PSU. I just want my rad fan to ramp up and down according to GPU temp....since it gets kind of loud around 90% and I want the cooling performance only when I'm gaming. 50-70% is good for noise, but needs to be higher for games.


Without spending more money, just use some fan control software. When you're not doing anything intensive have it at a low RPM, and when you need it high, ramp it up. Its not the most sophisticated or fancy, but it doesn't cost any money and performs all the same.

Using a splitter that is powered wont really work because either they will all run at 100%, or they all run at the same speed, which also wont work because the 92mm fan needs to be on high at all times, while the radiator fans can fluctuate.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> Hey Trondster!
> 
> Yeah it probs does. I will check the stock H55 fan but I doubt it would work since it looks like it needs more current than the Noctua (0.15A compared to 0.1A for the Noctua). Would you mind linking me an example of the powered fan splitter? How do those work, like how would the GPU software (MSI AB in my case) be able to control fan speed if the fan is connected to a powered fan splitter?


The splitter gets power from a Molex or SATA power plug, but gets PWM signals from the connected fan header - and thus you could connect several radiator fans controlled by a single fan header.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CB002-PWM-splitter-smart/dp/B001J2YRUC


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Don't run anything off of the GPU fan header via adapter other than a 92mm fan for the VRMs. Once you have the 92mm fan hooked up to the GPU, go into afterburner and set the speed to a constant RPM at 85%-100%. This fan NEEDs to be at a high speed in order to cool down the VRMs. No fan curve, no adaptive, just a constant high speed to keep the VRMs cool. This tiny fan makes no noise even at full 100% RPM.
> 
> Plug your pump into either molex or motherboard and have it running at full 100%. Then your radiator fan should be plugged into motherboard or fan controller. Don't set it up on a curve unless your curve can be dependent upon GPU temperature. Otherwise, keep it at a steady, 50-100% RPM.


Hey Pinko,

Yeah I won't...if it doesn't even start the fan then clearly there's too much resistance and the GPU header would burn out over time. I'm investigating Trondster's suggestion of a powered fan splitter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Without spending more money, just use some fan control software. When you're not doing anything intensive have it at a low RPM, and when you need it high, ramp it up. Its not the most sophisticated or fancy, but it doesn't cost any money and performs all the same.
> 
> Using a splitter that is powered wont really work because either they will all run at 100%, or they all run at the same speed, which also wont work because the 92mm fan needs to be on high at all times, while the radiator fans can fluctuate.


Hey Pinko,

So if I have the radiator fan connected to a mobo header, what fan software could I use to control that on the fly? Sorry for the noob question lol. I was under the impression fans connected to the mobo needed to be adjusted in the BIOS, so once you're into windows you won't be able to change anything =S


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> Hey Pinko,
> 
> Yeah I won't...if it doesn't even start the fan then clearly there's too much resistance and the GPU header would burn out over time. I'm investigating Trondster's suggestion of a powered fan splitter.
> Hey Pinko,
> 
> So if I have the radiator fan connected to a mobo header, what fan software could I use to control that on the fly? Sorry for the noob question lol. I was under the impression fans connected to the mobo needed to be adjusted in the BIOS, so once you're into windows you won't be able to change anything =S


If you have an Asus motherboard, you can use Fan Xpert. If not, I think there is a program called SpeedFan. I am not familiar with SpeedFan, but to my knowledge, it works similar to Fan Xpert, and from the desktop.


----------



## MEC-777

I just have my H55 pump and the 92mm fan running off a 12v molex adapter. They both need to run at 100% constant and neither make any noise running flat out. This is the simplest and cheapest way to run those. As for the rad fan(s), I have mine running at a constant 7v (via case fan controller) all the time. It's not so fast that it's noisy (actually pretty quiet - using corsair SP120 performance edition fans) and not so slow that it can't cool the GPU effectively.







I don't see any need to ramp the rad fans if a happy medium constant speed can be easily achieved, which it can.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I just discovered a product that will work incredibly with the G10 Bracket. Its an older product, but I think it will work perfectly with the G10 for those that want extra cooling on VRAM and VRMs.

Its the Antec Spot Cool.

This fan is an incredible way to get more cooling on your GPU. What it is, is a fan that can mount directly to your motherboard, anywhere that it is screwed in via standoffs, but I'm confident you aren't limited to just your motherboard as the only place of installation. It has a bendable extension arm, and the fan swivels within its mount which allows you to get direct airflow virtually anywhere you want within your chassis. It comes in two sizes, 80mm and 100mm. It also has 3 speeds that you can control with a switch on the fan(H/M/L). Judging from reviews, it is loud on the high setting, audible at medium, and quiet on low. Here is the product specification page with all the fan specs based on speed and size. It is not expensive, at only $12.75 on Amazon with Prime.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvNINzD-KDs

For those of you who are worried about VRAM and VRMs, this is an excellent product to get some precise additional cooling on your GPU, or really anywhere in your case. The only downside I see is that it has a blue LED, which is definitely not desirable for many people.

There is another interesting product, not nearly as good as the Spot Cool, but I think it has its spot in the market, especially for those who have cases with bad airflow. Its called the Antec Cyclone Blower, and its only $10. It screws into your PCI expansion slot covers, and is basically an additional exhaust fan. Its not helpful for everyone, but for people who have trouble with airflow, this is a nice product.


----------



## VSG

Lol I just ordered one of the same thing for the G10 review. I thought it would be a good addition/suggestion for people if it worked out well.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lol I just ordered one of the same thing for the G10 review. I thought it would be a good addition/suggestion for people if it worked out well.


Oh yea, you know when geggeg is doing a review, its going to be good, I really can't wait for your review and to add it to my G10 writeup. If you need any copper or aluminum heatsinks, as well as Sekisui Thermal Paste, just let me know, I will send you some, I have a ton of extras that I don't even use.

Anyways, having an extra fan directly over the side of the card does help with VRM temperatures. I did a test using a 200mm fan. I found that when running Unigine Heaven for 15min when monitoring the VRM temps with a fan controller's temperature prob, the VRM temps climbed a lot slower, and were overall lower than without the fan. Just to be clear, adding an extra fan is not necessary at all, but I wanted to test it anyways.

Here are some pictures of my ghetto rigged test:

No Fan = 48C VRM Temps


With Fan = 43C VRM Temps


Picture of 200mm fan setup


I definitely imagine the Antec Spot Cool doing an excellent job of reducing temperatures even better because it can be more focused directly on the VRMs. Would love to get some numbers on how well it actually does.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ambient is 23.8C/75F.
> 
> I had my radiator set as intake, and I was getting high temperatures. I did some experimenting and found that when the radiator was set to exhaust, my temperatures miraculously dropped by 10C. The only thing I changed was direction of the fans. You can feel how hot the air is when your GPU is under full load and expelling that hot air out. I don't know the exact temperature, but it was hot enough that common sense tells you to get that hot air OUT of your case, not blowing inside of it. It is much hotter than 6C above ambient.
> 
> Moustang, give it up. Everyone, literally everyone on this forum is telling you the same thing, from experience. We just helped two people in the past few pages with their temperatures by switching from intake to exhaust. Stop telling people to set it as intake, this is WRONG. Throughout this entire thread there are so many people who say my temperatures are too high, who then flip from intake to exhaust and it solves the problem. If it somehow works for you, that is surprising, but good, whatever works for you. For the rest of the people doing this mod, 99% of them are going to benefit from the hot air being pushed out of their case not into it.


I tell you what...

I'll "give it up" if you can show me how having TWO GPU AIOs as intake is making my case temps "extremely hot"....



There you go.

Motherboard temp = 29C max
HDD = 36C max
SSD = 25C max
RAM = 30C max

CPU AIO and both GPU AIOs are setup as intake. Max temps taken after running looping benchmark for 20 minutes with 98% GPU load on GTX 770s overclocked to 1296mhz. Ambient air temp is 21C.

So, I'll "give it up" if you can show me how any of those temps are "extremely high" and causing any harm or degradation in performance.

Otherwise, you need to accept I'm right and intake vs exhaust is entirely dependent on the specific application and there is no single best setup that applies to everyone.

BTW, if you're wondering how I get such low temps with all 3 AIOs acting as intake it's because I've got a 200mm fan blowing outside air directly across my drives and a second 200mm fan blowing outside air directly on the motherboard. The warm air from the AIOs is blended with cool air and vented before it has a chance to heat up other components, but that's my specific application.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> I tell you what...
> 
> I'll "give it up" if you can show me how having TWO GPU AIOs as intake is making my case temps "extremely hot"....
> 
> There you go.
> 
> Motherboard temp = 29C max
> HDD = 36C max
> SSD = 25C max
> RAM = 30C max
> 
> CPU AIO and both GPU AIOs are setup as intake. Max temps taken after running looping benchmark for 20 minutes with 98% GPU load on GTX 770s overclocked to 1296mhz. Ambient air temp is 21C.
> 
> So, I'll "give it up" if you can show me how any of those temps are "extremely high" and causing any harm or degradation in performance.
> 
> Otherwise, you need to accept I'm right and intake vs exhaust is entirely dependent on the specific application and there is no single best setup that applies to everyone.
> 
> BTW, if you're wondering how I get such low temps with all 3 AIOs acting as intake it's because I've got a 200mm fan blowing outside air directly across my drives and a second 200mm fan blowing outside air directly on the motherboard. The warm air from the AIOs is blended with cool air and vented before it has a chance to heat up other components, but that's my specific application.


Dude, thats exactly what I've been saying, if it works for you, great, but for the VAST majority of people, including a few people just in these past 10 pages, we fixed their problem by simply switching from intake to exhaust. If it works for you, great, but for most people, going from intake to exhaust is going to make an impact. People have reported 10C change in temps on VRMs just by switching intake to exhaust. There is no one size fits all, but there is clearly an overwhelming majority of people that benefit from having their GPUs G10 radiator set to exhaust.

I'm curious, what happens when you remove those 200mm fans? What happens to your temperatures then? Also, is your side panel removed? Can you post a picture of this setup please?

Just because it works for you with your setup with additional 200mm fans and a possible open side panel, doesn't mean intake is for everyone. 99% of people are benefiting from exhaust rather than intake because they don't have two 200mm fans blowing into their case, and it sounds like your side panel is open. I'm conceding that exhaust is not for everyone, clearly there are situations where it is not better, but for the vast majority of people, exhaust is how this mod should be done. I'll say it again, just because it works for you with your extra 200mm fans and open side panel? doesn't mean it will work for everyone. As always, trial and error to get the best temperatures is always the best to really fine tune your airflow, but there are an overwhelming amount of people who have had a problem with temperatures, including myself, and it was solved by a simple intake to exhaust switch of the fans.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Dude, thats exactly what I've been saying, if it works for you, great, but for the VAST majority of people, including a few people just in these past 10 pages, we fixed their problem by simply switching from intake to exhaust. If it works for you, great, but for most people, going from intake to exhaust is going to make an impact. People have reported 10C change in temps on VRMs just by switching intake to exhaust. There is no one size fits all, but there is clearly an overwhelming majority of people that benefit from having their GPUs G10 radiator set to exhaust.
> 
> I'm curious, what happens when you remove those 200mm fans? What happens to your temperatures then? Also, is your side panel removed? Can you post a picture of this setup please?
> 
> Just because it works for you with your setup with additional 200mm fans and a possible open side panel, doesn't mean intake is for everyone. 99% of people are benefiting from exhaust rather than intake because they don't have two 200mm fans blowing into their case, and it sounds like your side panel is open. I'm conceding that exhaust is not for everyone, clearly there are situations where it is not better, but for the vast majority of people, exhaust is how this mod should be done. I'll say it again, just because it works for you with your extra 200mm fans and open side panel? doesn't mean it will work for everyone. As always, trial and error to get the best temperatures is always the best to really fine tune your airflow, but there are an overwhelming amount of people who have had a problem with temperatures, including myself, and it was solved by a simple intake to exhaust switch of the fans.


It's not additional fans.

I have an NZXT Phantom 630 case. It comes with a 200mm fan in front, one in the top, and one in the side panel.



Nothing is open, no panels are removed, it's exactly as it came from NZXT. Stock case using stock fans. The ONLY difference from stock is that I removed the top 200mm fan and replaced it with my Corsair H110 as an intake rather than exhaust.

The other thing about the case is that the back is heavily vented so it works extremely well with a high positive airflow setup. The PCI slot covers are vented and there is a large open vent next to them, as well as the 140mm exhaust fan.



And I wasn't the one who made the blanket statement that one single setup is always the best. Go back and read, I very specifically said on multiple occasions that it all depends on the setup and someone with good airflow or someone who is mounting their AIO in the front or bottom would likely get better results setting it up as an intake to maintain airflow. I've never once suggested that setting an AIO up as exhaust is wrong, only that it's not always the best. You have to look at the specific application.


----------



## et3rn47

Maybe there is magic lack of air condensation which is having some type of magic affects on temperatures? IDK
Here is a link for people wondering about temperatures (just a super fast once over by linus)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuP6I0mOb1s


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's not additional fans.
> 
> I have an NZXT Phantom 630 case. It comes with a 200mm fan in front, one in the top, and one in the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing is open, no panels are removed, it's exactly as it came from NZXT. Stock case using stock fans. The ONLY difference from stock is that I removed the top 200mm fan and replaced it with my Corsair H110 as an intake rather than exhaust.
> 
> The other thing about the case is that the back is heavily vented so it works extremely well with a high positive airflow setup. The PCI slot covers are vented and there is a large open vent next to them, as well as the 140mm exhaust fan.
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasn't the one who made the blanket statement that one single setup is always the best. Go back and read, I very specifically said on multiple occasions that it all depends on the setup and someone with good airflow or someone who is mounting their AIO in the front or bottom would likely get better results setting it up as an intake to maintain airflow. I've never once suggested that setting an AIO up as exhaust is wrong, only that it's not always the best. You have to look at the specific application
> 
> 
> .


Ok, you have a large case with several extra 200mm fans moving air around - I say "extra" because most people don't have several fans of that size on their cases - so yeah, you could have your AIOs setup as intakes and not see much of a difference/issue. Regardless, I STILL say it's better (meaning inside case temps and temps of all other components) will stay/run cooler with the AIOs setup as exhaust.

Even if it "works for you" I don't understand why you would want to have anything blowing warm/hot air inside your case, instead of blowing it out...


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Ok, you have a large case with several extra 200mm fans moving air around - I say "extra" because most people don't have several fans of that size on their cases - so yeah, you could have your AIOs setup as intakes and not see much of a difference/issue. Regardless, I STILL say it's better (meaning inside case temps and temps of all other components) will stay/run cooler with the AIOs setup as exhaust.
> 
> Even if it "works for you" I don't understand why you would want to have anything blowing warm/hot air inside your case, instead of blowing it out...


I have my gpu aio as an intake at the bottom of my case (even though it goes against logic) it's the only rad spot the h55 could reach (h105 w/ scythe kaze ultras at the top block the rear fan mount.
I had my case temps drop by 2 degrees, 1 degree decrease in cpu temps and my gpu temp dropped by 5 degrees.

I just think different setups work for different people with different cases, even tho, logically, I should want my gpu aio exhausting (that air is pretty warm under load)

I think the reason it worked for me is my pc (define r4) is in a custom build desk with a door in front of it (essentially a cabinet) and when the aio exhausting out the bottom it would heat the cabinet up so the temps at the bottom of my case where often as warm as the temps at the top of the cabinet and the front fans kept drawing in preheated exhaust aio air.

Eventually I might get some noctua ppc fans to put on my h105 which should give me the room to rear mount my gpu aio.

Tl;dr: it's been like 2 pages of arguing and I would just hope you guys. Would agree to disagree that sometimes what shouldn't work works. (Case in point me and moustang)


----------



## stillWanted

Hi there, I am running a PNY 970 (the crappy blower one) o/ced to 1470/1885Mhz with 220W TDP, quite happy with it so far except for the temp as it reaches +80C while gaming and gets really loud

I thought getting a G10 and a H55 would be a cool solution as it's cheap and efficient but I've read that it's not designed for cards with VRMs on the left side

Sadly mine looks like that  except there is already a rectangle heatsink for VRMs 

Is it possible to put the G10 anyways and mount the 92mm fan that comes with it on some sort of PCI bracket placed just below ? 

This way i presume it would blow directly onto the VRMs instead of pushing some useless air to the rest of the computer

What do you think ?









(i'm really noobish when it comes to cooling and especially modding so any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks !







)


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> I have my gpu aio as an intake at the bottom of my case (even though it goes against logic) it's the only rad spot the h55 could reach (h105 w/ scythe kaze ultras at the top block the rear fan mount.
> I had my case temps drop by 2 degrees, 1 degree decrease in cpu temps and my gpu temp dropped by 5 degrees.
> 
> I just think different setups work for different people with different cases, even tho, logically, I should want my gpu aio exhausting (that air is pretty warm under load)
> 
> I think the reason it worked for me is my pc (define r4) is in a custom build desk with a door in front of it (essentially a cabinet) and when the aio exhausting out the bottom it would heat the cabinet up so the temps at the bottom of my case where often as warm as the temps at the top of the cabinet and the front fans kept drawing in preheated exhaust aio air.
> 
> Eventually I might get some noctua ppc fans to put on my h105 which should give me the room to rear mount my gpu aio.
> 
> Tl;dr: it's been like 2 pages of arguing and I would just hope you guys. Would agree to disagree that sometimes what shouldn't work works. (Case in point me and moustang)


By all means, if it works for your specific setup, then all power to you.









I can see how in that situation (and where you have your PC situated) that it makes sense. I think the main point of the argument a number of us were trying to make is that for the majority, it works better as exhaust.

But in the end, there is no "one setup works for all".


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stillWanted*
> 
> Hi there, I am running a PNY 970 (the crappy blower one) o/ced to 1470/1885Mhz with 220W TDP, quite happy with it so far except for the temp as it reaches +80C while gaming and gets really loud
> 
> I thought getting a G10 and a H55 would be a cool solution as it's cheap and efficient but I've read that it's not designed for cards with VRMs on the left side
> 
> Sadly mine looks like that  except there is already a rectangle heatsink for VRMs
> 
> Is it possible to put the G10 anyways and mount the 92mm fan that comes with it on some sort of PCI bracket placed just below ?
> 
> This way i presume it would blow directly onto the VRMs instead of pushing some useless air to the rest of the computer
> 
> What do you think ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i'm really noobish when it comes to cooling and especially modding so any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


im sure a pci bracket like that would would great to point a fan towards the vrms on your card. you could mount the g10 without the fan on or, or even if your up for it cut it down so its not so big (since you only need the one section that mounts the AIO.

Id probably suggest not modifying it in case you eventually get a different card and the g10 is completly compatible with that one.

I think you'll have to remove the vrm heatsink, it looks very tall, you could replace it with something like this


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@StillWanted

Try the Antec Spot Cool if you need to get some airflow on those VRMs.


----------



## stillWanted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> im sure a pci bracket like that would would great to point a fan towards the vrms on your card. you could mount the g10 without the fan on or, or even if your up for it cut it down so its not so big (since you only need the one section that mounts the AIO.
> 
> Id probably suggest not modifying it in case you eventually get a different card and the g10 is completly compatible with that one.
> 
> I think you'll have to remove the vrm heatsink, it looks very tall, you could replace it with something like this


Thanks for the confirmation, I don't think cutting it is worth the hassle as I have a pretty big case (Fractal XL R2) and above all I don't have a dremel tool









For the heatsink it may look tall with the angle of the previous picture but on this one it looks normal imho 

On this thread someone managed to fit the G10 on 970s which have quite the same PCB except the VRMs' heatsink looks even taller than mine http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18649300

On the last picture it looks like he could fit the 92mm fan on a PCI bracket as I thought, so do you think I should be fine ?

I don't know if it's a "good enough" solution as there's no way to monitor VRMs' temps though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @StillWanted
> 
> Try the Antec Spot Cool if you need to get some airflow on those VRMs.


Yeah I looked for it but as I live in France the cheapest I found was 19€, do you think it is worth the price ?


----------



## ALIENisGOD

I havent posted many times in this forum, but im a proud owner of a G10 along with a NZXT Kraken X41 cooling my MSI GTX 680. After reading through it appears as though i need to buy some VRAM heatsinks for the VRMs and memory. My card is running fine as is, but im worried about the naked VRMs. GPU temps are 29C-32C idle and 51 C max gaming.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@StillWanted

If there is no other way to get direct airflow over the VRMs, then I think it is a worthwhile purchase.


----------



## ALIENisGOD

In action







yea, i need to clean off that dust on the CPU HSF


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stillWanted*
> 
> Thanks for the confirmation, I don't think cutting it is worth the hassle as I have a pretty big case (Fractal XL R2) and above all I don't have a dremel tool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the heatsink it may look tall with the angle of the previous picture but on this one it looks normal imho
> 
> On this thread someone managed to fit the G10 on 970s which have quite the same PCB except the VRMs' heatsink looks even taller than mine http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18649300
> 
> On the last picture it looks like he could fit the 92mm fan on a PCI bracket as I thought, so do you think I should be fine ?
> 
> I don't know if it's a "good enough" solution as there's no way to monitor VRMs' temps though
> Yeah I looked for it but as I live in France the cheapest I found was 19€, do you think it is worth the price ?


Looking at that other thread its very clear that the g10 bracket is set back from the vrm heatsink, I still think it is a tall heatsink, the Factory heatsink on my 290x fits under the g10 bracket.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @StillWanted
> 
> If there is no other way to get direct airflow over the VRMs, then I think it is a worthwhile purchase.


i think the Bracket that he showed in his first post would work great. Based on the location of his vrms relative to the back of the case it should work out well. im not sure about the spacing on the holes but he might even be able to use the nzxt 92mm fan. This could potentially cost less than the cool spot.

This product will take a 80/90 mm fan and it can be pointed directly up to the vrm heatink (since the vrm is located between the back of the case and the gpu chip)

Like this, but with only one fan, since two is probably redundant. This guy use a pci fan bracket against the chassis and then zap strapped the second fan to the first.









@ skilWanted
I think if you can find a set of those brackets for cheap you would be set, and if you cant im sure you could figure something out with a few zap straps if you remove 2 pci covers or drilled small ones through them to zap strap the fan to the back of the case in the same way the bracket holds it.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@c0nspire

Ohhh thats a really cool product. That bracket idea looks really neat, and its not expensive at all. You do have to buy your own fan though, but overall it should end up costing less than 19 euros by going with that bracket.

Definitely bookmarking that, very cool idea to get additional cooling in hard to reach places.


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @c0nspire
> 
> Ohhh thats a really cool product. That bracket idea looks really neat, and its not expensive at all. You do have to buy your own fan though, but overall it should end up costing less than 19 euros by going with that bracket.
> 
> Definitely bookmarking that, very cool idea to get additional cooling in hard to reach places.


Yes you'd need to get a fan, That site had a couple options to include fans but i'm sure they are garbage.
Fortunately for stillWanted he can use the 92mm fan that comes with the g10, it should be more than adequate for cool his vrm with that heatsink at next to no extra cost.


----------



## c0nspire

I wanted to make a post that shows my temps based on my old / new configuration (all clocks are stock, waiting for a new PSU before i OC)

fx9370 (h105 w/ 2 scythe ultra kaze 3000s in push)
asus r9 290x (H55 w/ Corsair H105 in push, cougar vortex in pull)

intake fans at front (1 140mm cougar vortex, 1 120mm cougar vortex)
Case is in a closed cabinet with a door on it. the back is open, there is a vent in the front and an exhaust fan on the side to vent out hot air.

First lets start with the old, gpu Rad in the bottom as an intake
There was a 120mm cougar vortex acting as an exhaust in the back


Idle w/ fans at 30-50%
ambient - 19.5
socket - 28
mainboard - 30
core - 28
case - [email protected] top, [email protected] bot
GPU - 36
vrm1/2 - 36/46

ungine valley w/ fans at 80-95%
ambient - 19.5
socket - 47
mainboard - 34
core - 28
case - [email protected] top, [email protected] bot
GPU - 55
vrm1/2 - 70/74

prime w/ fans at 80-95%
ambient - 20.5
socket - 72
mainboard - 30
core - 41
case - [email protected] top, [email protected] bot
GPU - 36
vrm1/2 - 36/46

new setup, intake fans are the same and radiator fans are the same, gpu rad is exhausting out the back. 120mm cougar vortex moved to the bottom as intake


Idle w/ fans at 30-50%
ambient - 22.5
socket - 32
mainboard - 31
core - 32
case - [email protected] top, [email protected] bot
GPU - 42
vrm1/2 - 37/49

ungine valley w/fans at 80-95%
ambient - 22.5
socket - 45
mainboard - 30
core - 28
case - [email protected] top, [email protected] bot
GPU - 60
vrm1/2 - 64/63

prime @ 10minutes w/ fans at 80-95%
ambient - 22.5
socket - 78
mainboard - 31
core - 48
case - [email protected] top, [email protected] bot
GPU - 40
vrm1/2 - 37/48

prime @ 30minutes w/ fans at 80-95%
ambient - 22.5
socket - 68
mainboard - 32
core - 37
case - [email protected] top, [email protected] bot
GPU - 42
vrm1/2 - 38/48

Curious how these look to some of the member with much more experience.


----------



## Trondster

What if you set your side fan as an intake?


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> What if you set your side fan as an intake?


Allow to me clarify, The "side" fan that is exhausting air isnt actually in the case, its in the cabinet. i have it hooked up to my fan controller but im using it to draw the hot air out of the cabinet/enclosure. Before I added the fan if you opened the drawer above the pc you could feel all the hot air rush past your hand out of the cabinet. Essentially the pc was sitting in a sauna.

the pc has no side fans. 2 intake fronts, 1 intake bottom (cane be fan or rad), 1 exhaust back (can be fan or rad), 2 exhaust top (rad)

pic for clarity


edit: I do have another 140mm cougar vortex kicking around. My Define R4 does allow for me to remove the 140mm cover in the side panel and add another fan in its place. I could perhaps add it as another intake if it is thought that it will make a difference.

i suppose i might as well just try it regardless to see what happens.


----------



## stillWanted

Found one for 5$ if someone else is interested

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-Fan-Mount-Rack-PCI-Slot-Bracket-for-Video-Card-DIY/1860612394.html


----------



## markob53

Recently switched my H55 rad from the front of my H440 from a push/pull intake into a push/exhaust at the rear and my case temps are definitely better, no more hot air smell. But I'm still approaching 60c when playing Shadow of Mordor, 99% gpu usage. I'm seeing people here getting mid 40's maximum and I'm wondering why?

Another question, I'm using one of my spare Noctua fans as push just for testing purposes and I plan on buying some different fans that are more aesthetically pleasing, and I was debating going push/pull in the rear but if I do that half of one of the fans on my H100i in the roof will be covered up, is that an issue? It is also set as an exhaust and there is still space between both fans. And if I do decide to go push/pull, should I get two static pressures or a static pressure push and an air flow in pull? I figured 2 static pressure would provide the best solution to cooling the rad and getting the hot air out of my case.

I'm also thinking about remounting everything with better thermal paste, i'm currently using Akasa AK-455, anything better than can shave off a few degrees? Thanks.


----------



## NIK1

I have had my G10 with a corsair h55 on my Gigabyte ati 7970 for 2 months now and my idle temp is 30-31 Celsius and when gaming it always gets up to 57-58 cel while playing world of tanks. My temps before the g10 was added was 35 cel idle and 65-67 tops when gaming. Post 2667 showed a mod with 2 fans zip tied together under the g10 and vid card.I tried this on my setup and my temps are still the same 31-32 idle and 57 cel when gaming. Two extra cooling fans underneath the g10 should of cooled her off even more should it not have. The fans I used zipped together under the g10 are 2 Swiftech Helix 120 mm rad fans I had kicking around. Just curious on how come the 2 extra fans under the g10 never made any difference in temps no matter what speed I run them at.


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> 
> I have had my G10 with a corsair h55 on my Gigabyte ati 7970 for 2 months now and my idle temp is 30-31 Celsius and when gaming it always gets up to 57-58 cel while playing world of tanks. My temps before the g10 was added was 35 cel idle and 65-67 tops when gaming. Post 2667 showed a mod with 2 fans zip tied together under the g10 and vid card.I tried this on my setup and my temps are still the same 31-32 idle and 57 cel when gaming. Two extra cooling fans underneath the g10 should of cooled her off even more should it not have. The fans I used zipped together under the g10 are 2 Swiftech Helix 120 mm rad fans I had kicking around. Just curious on how come the 2 extra fans under the g10 never made any difference in temps no matter what speed I run them at.


The H55 is cooling the GPU chip, and the readings that you see have more to do with that. The 92mm fan cools the other components like the VRMs and adding more fans under it only helps airflow to these components (sending fresher intake air as well as pushing hot air up towards the exhaust). How is the H55 fan hooked up? It could be running at low rpm/silent mode for example, and it's possible that at that low speed the fan doesn't get enough static pressure (which can be a problem if the fin density on the ad is too tight).


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for the info. I have the H55 at the back of my cosmos 2 case as exhaust push/pull with 2 Gentle Typhoon 120mm fans. I use Asus AI suite fan expert to control the fans and have them at 1200 rpm when not gaming and when gaming they go to 1700 rpm.


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I have the H55 at the back of my cosmos 2 case as exhaust push/pull with 2 Gentle Typhoon 120mm fans. I use Asus AI suite fan expert to control the fans and have them at 1200 rpm when not gaming and when gaming they go to 1700 rpm.


That is kinda weird - usually the readings would put the GPU to be much cooler with the G10 and an AIO and your fans seem to be in order. What's the ambient temp, and what fan and settings are you using on the intake? Do you have an AIO on the CPU on the intake?


----------



## NIK1

In the front of my cosmos 2 case there is a 200mm blue LED fan x 1, 1700 RPM, 19 dBA (installed),and Blue LED 140mm fan x 1 1700 RPM both front fans as intake, up top I have a corsair H110 cooling the cpu with Noctua 140 mm fans half push pull, on the bottom of the rad I could only put one fan on as push, two top fans as pull exhausting. The fans are 1200 rpm.The ambient temp in my computer room is 73-74 F.


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> In the front of my cosmos 2 case there is a 200mm blue LED fan x 1, 1700 RPM, 19 dBA (installed),and Blue LED 140mm fan x 1 1700 RPM both front fans as intake, up top I have a corsair H110 cooling the cpu with Noctua 140 mm fans half push pull, on the bottom of the rad I could only put one fan on as push, two top fans as pull exhausting. The fans are 1200 rpm.The ambient temp in my computer room is 73-74 F.


Everything is otherwise in order; did you install the H55 new from the box or did you have to reapply the thermal compound?


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PM323*
> 
> That is kinda weird - usually the readings would put the GPU to be much cooler with the G10 and an AIO and your fans seem to be in order. What's the ambient temp, and what fan and settings are you using on the intake? Do you have an AIO on the CPU on the intake?


Would they really be that much cooler than they currently are? His temps and setup is similar to mine (asides from the direction that the cpu rad is drawing air). I dont know how hot the 7970 is, but my 290 with an h55 idles at 32-36 and hits ~55 under load

If anybody can answer this:
I have 2 sp120 fans (the ones that come with the h100i) on my h55 and it idles at 32-36 no matter what the fan speeds are at (1300 / 2700). I'm thinking of swapping them to some cougar vortex fans i have to see if it makes a difference. I am confident that the water block is sufficiently tight and i used arctic silver 5.


----------



## NIK1

My H55 is new from the box, I redid the thermal paste with prolimatech pk-3 tim and the temps remained the same. I also had to use the copper shim to mount the h55 to the 7970.I used the pea method under and on top of the shim. I have read some where that with pk3 I should of spread it on evenly instead of pea method. The pk3 paste is pretty thick.31 cel idle and 57 cel while gaming is still better than the stock 7970 which was 35 at idle and 67-68 tops while gaming.


----------



## InstaBurn

Just got my dual 7970 setup dialed in.
I splurged and used Noctua fans everywhere I could for my G10 Kraken install.. a 92mm, a 120mm on the hose side of the radiator and a 150mm (its the one that has screw holes for putting it where a 120mm fan goes) on the other side.
On the gpu and shim I used the "spread it around" method for my H55's.
Just enough make it so you cant see the copper color on the anymore.
I used artic silver 5 paste.
The only gripe I have is how you feel like you need a 3rd arm or a helper to hold the radiator and hoses while you attach the bracket and cooler block to the gpu.
I accidentally spun the cooler block after setting it down because the G10 bracket wasn't compressed enough for the teeth to catch on the outer ring. The shim must have slid over a bit and shorted something because the card wouldn't boot when installed.
So after an entire re-do, i secured the block and the comp. Booted just fine.
Temps are similar to most everyone elses. Low 30's at idle.. maxes at 57C during 3DMark, HEAVEN, etc.
I bought, but haven't received yet some 4-pin PWM cable adapters from DIYPC so I can use the onboard fan headers from the graphics card to power the fans instead of splitting my mobo fan headers 5 and 6 times over.

Current Rig:
Fractal Define R4, 4790k, 4gb x 4 GSkill 2133mhz RAM, Gigabyte SLI Mobo, Corsair H110 Dual 140mm w/ 4 Noctua's in Push/Pull, Dual 7970 Sapphire 6gb VaporX's with Kraken G10's and Corsair H55's to chill things out With Noctua 120mm's in push and 150mm's in pull, Seasonic 1200w Platinum P/S, Mushkin 1tb SSD for OS and Games... 4tb Segate for the rest, Lots of 4-pin fan splitters..hah.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> If anybody can answer this:
> I have 2 sp120 fans (the ones that come with the h100i) on my h55 and it idles at 32-36 no matter what the fan speeds are at (1300 / 2700). I'm thinking of swapping them to some cougar vortex fans i have to see if it makes a difference. I am confident that the water block is sufficiently tight and i used arctic silver 5.


What is the ambient temp of the air going into the radiator?

If you've got it setup as exhaust and the air temps are 31C inside the case then you'll never get below 32C no matter what fans you use or how high you have them set. A quick way to check is to see what your motherboard temps are. You can expect your GPU to idle about 1C higher than your motherboard with the AIO set as exhaust.


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> What is the ambient temp of the air going into the radiator?
> 
> If you've got it setup as exhaust and the air temps are 31C inside the case then you'll never get below 32C no matter what fans you use or how high you have them set. A quick way to check is to see what your motherboard temps are. You can expect your GPU to idle about 1C higher than your motherboard with the AIO set as exhaust.


Im typically 6-8 degrees above ambient case temp (15-18 degrees above room temp)


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> Im typically 6-8 degrees above ambient case temp (15-18 degrees above room temp)


That's insane.

I live in Texas. During the summer my indoor ambient temps are 26C. That would put me idling at 41-44C. I'm rarely breaking 50C under full load unless my GPU is overclocked by like 300mhz.


----------



## c0nspire

My pc is in an enclosure, so the ambient case temps are expected to be higher than room temps.

Here are my idle temps from a different post:
Idle w/ fans at 30-50%
ambient room - 19.5
socket - 28
mainboard - 30
core - 28
case - [email protected] top, [email protected] bot
GPU - 36
vrm1/2 - 36/46

Im wondering if i should reseat the heatsink. But it seems like a lot of members with h55's have similar idle temps

I hit 60 under ungine, which is still15 degrees better than the factory directcuii cooler


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My H55 is new from the box, I redid the thermal paste with prolimatech pk-3 tim and the temps remained the same. I also had to use the copper shim to mount the h55 to the 7970.I used the pea method under and on top of the shim. I have read some where that with pk3 I should of spread it on evenly instead of pea method. The pk3 paste is pretty thick.31 cel idle and 57 cel while gaming is still better than the stock 7970 which was 35 at idle and 67-68 tops while gaming.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> Would they really be that much cooler than they currently are? His temps and setup is similar to mine (asides from the direction that the cpu rad is drawing air). I dont know how hot the 7970 is, but my 290 with an h55 idles at 32-36 and hits ~55 under load
> 
> If anybody can answer this:
> I have 2 sp120 fans (the ones that come with the h100i) on my h55 and it idles at 32-36 no matter what the fan speeds are at (1300 / 2700). I'm thinking of swapping them to some cougar vortex fans i have to see if it makes a difference. I am confident that the water block is sufficiently tight and i used arctic silver 5.


The idle temps are fine but I have some concern about the on load temps. I'm using a stock 2-fan Windforce HD7850, it's hot over here (ambient is around 31deg at around 2pm, even in January), I'm using a silent case with fans barely pushing air into the chassis with the door closed (PS07 with two AP121s), and I never went past 71deg C; I just assume 67deg C is kinda high for a liquid cooled GPU in a larger case with more airflow. Not even a four army, 8,000++ soldier siege battle in Total War at mostly Ultra settings (I dial back on AA and some detail on the foliage and shadows) or a two hour FPS game managed to get it up to that temp at that time of day.

A lot of variables vary of course but it'd be great to cover all the bases first and figure out _if_ there might be any issues with the installation. If anything the extra fans aren't helping the GPU and probably not much for the other components on the card, otherwise if he's sure the waterblock is seated properly then the readings can be chalked up to the chip's TDP and how demanding his games are. At the end of the day, he's not hitting the limits on the card, and if anything, the only other thing to check is how well his stock GPU cooler did with the same load.


----------



## c0nspire

I went and moved a bunch of things around in my case to see if i could lower the temps of my setup. Originally i was worried that the CPU rad might have been starvign the GPU rad of air due to their close proximity and the scythe ultra kaze fans on the cpu rad. a few days ago i reset the gpu cooler and used Céramique 2 instead of Arctic Silver 5 to see if either the reset or the TIM would make a difference, it didnt.

With the current configuration (cpurad at front as intake) versus the old setup (cpu rad at top as exhaust) there are, again, almost no differences in temperature. My ambient case temps have increased 1-2 degrees but the gpu is still idling and loading at the same temps.

I'm to the point where i think the H55 radiator is just too small to keep the 290x tdp below 36 degrees at idle when the case temps are around 28 degrees. even now under full load its still 20 degrees cooler than the directcu cooler, its just at idle that i'm not seeing an improvement.

Currently using cougar vortex fans, if i switch to sp120 fans it runs 1-2 degrees cooler, but i prefer the silence from the cougars.

Just wanted to share my experience, at the end of the day I am very with the g10/h55 because under load i am considerably cooler than the stock unit.

crappy cell phone picture because for some reason the real camera picture is out of focus.


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> I'm to the point where i think the H55 radiator is just too small to keep the 290x tdp below 36 degrees at idle when the case temps are around 28 degrees. even now under full load its still 20 degrees cooler than the directcu cooler, its just at idle that i'm not seeing an improvement.
> 
> Currently using cougar vortex fans, if i switch to sp120 fans it runs 1-2 degrees cooler, but i prefer the silence from the cougars.


Could be the fan profile too if it's not spinning fast enough at idle, but in any case if it doesn't even get to within 15deg C of its thermal limits when you're playing games, then after checking everything else, best leave it alone knowing there isn't anything wrong and keep playing









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> crappy cell phone picture because for some reason the real camera picture is out of focus


What camera are you using? I have an Olympus E-P2 here and in low light any smartphone focuses a lot faster, all thanks to how Olympus thought "meh, this will be for street photography" and totally ditched the focusing beam, while smartphones use their LED lamp for that. My X100 at least has a "silent mode" so it doesn't shine that light on strangers you're taking photos of on the street, but during parties at night it focuses with no problems (after a few firmware updates).


----------



## c0nspire

I was using a sony cybershot. I must have moved when i took the picture. But the pc was already assembled and in my desk.

The fans are hooked up to the mobo with qfan disabled as my fan controller has been acting up.


----------



## Eudisld15

Hey everyone, I'm gearing up to put on of these on my Power Color 290x pc+.
I work til 12am and when I get home I wanna do some gaming but the fans on the PC+ are very loud and disturbs my fiance's sleep.
So, The 290x PC+ comes with vrm heat sinks, these should be enough to cool the vrm with the g10 right? I don't have to buy Gelid's aftermarket sinks right?

Pictures for reference.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> Hey everyone, I'm gearing up to put on of these on my Power Color 290x pc+.
> I work til 12am and when I get home I wanna do some gaming but the fans on the PC+ are very loud and disturbs my fiance's sleep.
> So, The 290x PC+ comes with vrm heat sinks, these should be enough to cool the vrm with the g10 right? I don't have to buy Gelid's aftermarket sinks right?
> 
> Pictures for reference.


Yeh that should be good, stick some heatsinks on the RAM if you're really worried but even without you should be fine so long as you're just gaming and not running kombustor 24/7


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Yeh that should be good, stick some heatsinks on the RAM if you're really worried but even without you should be fine so long as you're just gaming and not running kombustor 24/7


Thank you! Once my parts come I'll see if I can do a assembly picture guide on this specific card.I'll be slapping on some copper heatsinks on thE vram and then I'll run some tests on furmark and firestrike to see how well it OCs.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> Thank you! Once my parts come I'll see if I can do a assembly picture guide on this specific card.I'll be slapping on some copper heatsinks on thE vram and then I'll run some tests on furmark and firestrike to see how well it OCs.


I really wouldn't run either kombustor or furmark on a GPU, they are known GPU killers.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

any special needs for a evga 970 sc with backplate? Have the bracket and cooler ready to mount just doing some browsing before i do it. haven't see nothing that mentions this.
Other than the vrms on the left side on the card.


----------



## Eudisld15

And DONE!

I'll be uploading picture tomorrow. Too lazy to remove the side panel right now. Installation is easier than installing a cpu closed loop!

MAX Temps on furmark 1080p benchmark preset went from 85C to 57C. Powercolor PCS+ r9-290x early models have a defect with their fans. This makes them loud and inefficient.
Their newer revision fixes that but I have the early model. ITS WHISPER QUIET NOW!







:thumb:


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> And DONE!
> 
> I'll be uploading picture tomorrow. Too lazy to remove the side panel right now. Installation is easier than installing a cpu closed loop!
> 
> MAX Temps on furmark 1080p benchmark preset went from 85C to 57C. Powercolor PCS+ r9-290x early models have a defect with their fans. This makes them loud and inefficient.
> Their newer revision fixes that but I have the early model. ITS WHISPER QUIET NOW!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:


Glad you're happy and can't wait to see the pictures, just please don't use Kombustor, it has been known to break perfectly good cards.


----------



## Eudisld15

Well, I only ran one pass of furmark. How exactly does it manage to cause so much power leakage? My vrm temps Shot up to 97c. whilst unigine valley at equal settings (1080p max aa) barely took them over 60C...


----------



## falcon26

I know this has been answered, but I can't seem to find it. I have the MSI Gaming Gtx 980. Will the G10 work on this? And if it does would it be like my old MSI gaming Gtx 780 Ti where it has the VRM and Memory plate on it and if I could use the one from the 980 as well? Without removing the VRM memory plate thing I mean...


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I know this has been answered, but I can't seem to find it. I have the MSI Gaming Gtx 980. Will the G10 work on this? And if it does would it be like my old MSI gaming Gtx 780 Ti where it has the VRM and Memory plate on it and if I could use the one from the 980 as well? Without removing the VRM memory plate thing I mean...


I believe the 980 is compatible. It should list the 980 but to make sure look at the sign up list on the first page for and 970/980. Also, my card, the 290x has built in vrm heat sinks and works perfectly. I don't see why yours would. For good measure could you upload pictures of your card to see how much the sinks cover. That would give a definite answer.


----------



## Eudisld15

Flacon, so I just checked the main page for you. It shows the 980 as compatible and it shows a few on the sign up list. I'm assuming as long as your board is a reference gpu board or Atleast one that doesn't interfere with the G10 mount then it'll fit like a glove.


----------



## Eudisld15

Here you go guys! I gotta do something about the sag the cooler causes.
ALSO, Define XL R2 users out there. A 120mm rad can be mount on the bottom as intake. Be wary the it will be a very tight fit if you do a
push pull double fan set up do to the psu...


----------



## crazytalk

Can you install two of these with a pair of cards in crossfire? I don't have the room/option for a single slot inbetween the cards (Maximus VII Gene)


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazytalk*
> 
> Can you install two of these with a pair of cards in crossfire? I don't have the room/option for a single slot inbetween the cards (Maximus VII Gene)


Yup, absolutely. You might have to bend the lip on the top G10 bracket, but it should work. Just make sure you have a place to mount the AIOs.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> Well, I only ran one pass of furmark. How exactly does it manage to cause so much power leakage? My vrm temps Shot up to 97c. whilst unigine valley at equal settings (1080p max aa) barely took them over 60C...


I don't think there is a leakage of power happening. It is an excess of power being supplied to the components and circuitry.

This doesn't happen to just G10 users, it can happen to anyone. Furmark destroyed my brand new, MSI GTX 770 Lightning in March of 14'. It was working perfectly for 2 weeks, as I always do before overclocking my components. First time I ran furmark at stock to get a baseline for performance, 7 minutes in, the card bricked. It breaks perfectly good cards because it puts unnecessary amounts of stress on the components.

Search Kombustor or Furmark broke my GPU and you will see this is an uncommon problem, but it does happen. It is not recommended to ever run this program, it is just not a realistic load. Use Heaven, Valley, Firemark, or in-game benchmark utilities as those are much more realistic tests. I understand why the reviewers at Pugeut decided to test Kombustor, to give a worst case scenario, as a reviewer should do, but if you exclude that unrealistic result, the G10 mod is an astounding success. Temperatures, noise, everything is reduced during realistic gaming scenarios. Its a shame that the review got so much traction and people have this perception that the G10 is bad when it really isn't. The VRM temps being an "issue" is software related, not hardware.

Someone explained it to me this way: Imagine you're racing your formula one racing car, very high end, but fragile-ish cars. When you're in a race, you are constantly speeding up, slowing down, braking, turning, maneuvering. This is similar to what happens to your GPU when playing a game. Now, what furmark does is pedal to the metal, non-stop, no slowing down, no maneuvering, just balls to the wall non-stop 100% utilization. After time, your tires will overheat, your gears will grind, and the car will fall apart. Your GPU being pushed to 99% in games, and your GPU being pushed to 99% through Kombustor are two totally different scenarios.

Its a rarity, but it still happens enough that I do not recommend anyone to ever use Furmark or Kombustor.


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I don't think there is a leakage of power happening. It is an excess of power being supplied to the components and circuitry.
> 
> This doesn't happen to just G10 users, it can happen to anyone. Furmark destroyed my brand new, MSI GTX 770 Lightning in March of 14'. It was working perfectly for 2 weeks, as I always do before overclocking my components. First time I ran furmark at stock to get a baseline for performance, 7 minutes in, the card bricked. It breaks perfectly good cards because it puts unnecessary amounts of stress on the components.
> 
> Search Kombustor or Furmark broke my GPU and you will see this is an uncommon problem, but it does happen. It is not recommended to ever run this program, it is just not a realistic load. Use Heaven, Valley, Firemark, or in-game benchmark utilities as those are much more realistic tests. I understand why the reviewers at Pugeut decided to test Kombustor, to give a worst case scenario, as a reviewer should do, but if you exclude that unrealistic result, the G10 mod is an astounding success. Temperatures, noise, everything is reduced during realistic gaming scenarios. Its a shame that the review got so much traction and people have this perception that the G10 is bad when it really isn't. The VRM temps being an "issue" is software related, not hardware.
> 
> Someone explained it to me this way: Imagine you're racing your formula one racing car, very high end, but fragile-ish cars. When you're in a race, you are constantly speeding up, slowing down, braking, turning, maneuvering. This is similar to what happens to your GPU when playing a game. Now, what furmark does is pedal to the metal, non-stop, no slowing down, no maneuvering, just balls to the wall non-stop 100% utilization. After time, your tires will overheat, your gears will grind, and the car will fall apart. Your GPU being pushed to 99% in games, and your GPU being pushed to 99% through Kombustor are two totally different scenarios.
> 
> Its a rarity, but it still happens enough that I do not recommend anyone to ever use Furmark or Kombustor.


Oh I know it's not G10 issue. I had worse temps on the pcs+ heat sink cooler. I just wanted to know why those two programs are able to request so much power, where as other programs are more effcient. I was just not aware that a program can request so much power. I thought that gpu drivers and bios have false safes that prohibit that.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> Oh I know it's not G10 issue. I had worse temps on the pcs+ heat sink cooler. I just wanted to know why those two programs are able to request so much power, where as other programs are more effcient. I was just not aware that a program can request so much power. I thought that gpu drivers and bios have false safes that prohibit that.


Yea, they should have fail safes to prevent that. I have no technical knowledge, but if I had to guess, perhaps something wasn't soldered correctly, or something is improperly connected, and the voltage is just too much for the circuitry to handle. Just a guess.

Also, I'm looking at your pictures. Is it at all possible for you to mount your CPU's AIO to the roof of your chassis, and then mount the G10's AIO to the rear as exhaust? This should lower your VRM temps even further.


----------



## eBombzor

Which TIM application method do you guys use on large dies? Rice? Line? x? How much TIM do you guys usually use?

I'm asking because I don't think I applied the TIM correctly on my GPU. Take a look:



My GPU temps go up extremely quickly and almost instantly go back to normal idle temperatures. Is this suppose to happen?

I'm also using a copper shim that I think might have lost alignment with the die during pump installation.

Thanks.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Which TIM application method do you guys use on large dies? Rice? Line? x? How much TIM do you guys usually use?
> 
> I'm asking because I don't think I applied the TIM correctly on my GPU. Take a look:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My GPU temps go up extremely quickly and almost instantly go back to normal idle temperatures. Is this suppose to happen?
> 
> I'm also using a copper shim that I think might have lost alignment with the die during pump installation.
> 
> Thanks.


When using a shim, its important to use the spread method on both sides. This ensures proper dispersion of the TIM, and because the mounting pressure of the G10 is not as much as when you're mounting it to a CPU, so it doesn't spread as well. Use the spread method, do it to both sides and see if that helps.

What kind of load are you placing on the GPU to get that result? Those temperatures are by no means bad, but it depends what you are doing to get there.


----------



## falcon26

I'm wondering if putting a G10 is worth it on the 970/980 series really. My card idles at like 38-40 and loads about 62-64 and is fairly quiet. Does the G10 drop the temps that much compared to the stock cooling on say the MSI Gaming series 970/980 cards? If I did it, I would use the H90 140MM corsair and run it in the front of my Fractal R5. I already have a H90 in the rear for my CPU....


----------



## NIK1

My ATI 7970 and G10 are running good and wonder if anyone has used Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra on the gpu. I have to run a copper shim on mine and was thinking of using the ultra on the gpu, then put shim on, and on top of the shim use prolimatech pk 3 to go on the waterblock of my H55.Just curious if anyone has tested this with any good results. The ultra really works good on my delided 3570k,should drop temps on a vid card too. Any thoughts.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> When using a shim, its important to use the spread method on both sides. This ensures proper dispersion of the TIM, and because the mounting pressure of the G10 is not as much as when you're mounting it to a CPU, so it doesn't spread as well. Use the spread method, do it to both sides and see if that helps.
> 
> What kind of load are you placing on the GPU to get that result? Those temperatures are by no means bad, but it depends what you are doing to get there.


I was running Heaven. I will make sure to spread the TIM evenly. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## wako7654

How did you attach the heatsinks on the RAM chips? Is it permanent?


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wako7654*
> 
> How did you attach the heatsinks on the RAM chips? Is it permanent?


If you order http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A then it comes with its own adhesive. It works well and its removable.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> If you order http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A then it comes with its own adhesive. It works well and its removable.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14FJL5O9CH7QK

those ones too are removable?

need for vrms as well


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14FJL5O9CH7QK
> 
> those ones too are removable?
> 
> need for vrms as well


One of the comments mention it has adhesive on it. My assumption is that it is the same adhesive as the copper ones I linked. but Vrm do get toasty. I would suggest that you look at thermal adhesive (not paste btw) that can handle very high temps. What card are you putting them on.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

970


----------



## Eudisld15

What model?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14FJL5O9CH7QK
> 
> those ones too are removable?
> 
> need for vrms as well


Yup those work just as well as the copper ones. I actually prefer the aluminum ones because they are not as heavy, so much less likely to fall off. Also, they are less expensive and come with 20 pieces compared to 8. I do personally use Sekisui Double Sided Adhesive thermal tape, it is only $2 on ebay, and it works well, without being permanent.


----------



## falcon26

Where do you get that 3 pin to 4 pin adapter again so you can plug in the fan from the g10 to the video card? Also with the MSI gtx 980 its confirmed that you can leave the memory vrm heat plate on? Also you do not need a copper shimm in between the h90 cooler and the GPU?


----------



## falcon26

For reference this is the MSI 980 without the cooler on it


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Falcon26

I thought you had already done the G10 mod a few months ago?

VGA to PWM Fan Adapter

Yes, you can leave the mid-plate on, and the backplate if it has one. In order to do so, you will need to thin down or remove the foam pad that comes on the G10's tiny backplate. If you do not thin down that foam pad, then the screws will not be long enough. You will not need a shim for that GPU, and the VRAM and VRMs are very well heatsinked.

I think you can expect a 10-20C drop in temperatures from stock heatsink to G10 mod. If you want to get the best performance, use push/pull, and high end thermal compound.


----------



## falcon26

Thanks for the info. Yes I did it on my 780 ti. This is my 980  I didn't even use those foam pads last time....


----------



## gotovato

Hey all, new to this forum but not new to the kraken g10. I have 2 gtx 780 in sli both with the kraken g10 for cooling. Both cards are running the skyn3t vbios. I have one question regarding vrm heat sinks. How important are they for my 780's? I've been running them for months now with no issues except when playing assassins creed unity. I noticed there's 4 little black patchs on the back of each card(not sure what these are) but they become very very hot to the touch while playing unity and I wonder if a heat sink is needed for this? As of now I play all my games at stock clocks but have gotten both cards to benchmark successfully at 1332mhz on the core and 6800mhz on the VRAM. I'm wondering if the lack of vrm and memory heat sinks would cause any loss in performance? If they are recommended which ones should I buy? Any help would be great thanks


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotovato*
> 
> Hey all, new to this forum but not new to the kraken g10. I have 2 gtx 780 in sli both with the kraken g10 for cooling. Both cards are running the skyn3t vbios. I have one question regarding vrm heat sinks. How important are they for my 780's? I've been running them for months now with no issues except when playing assassins creed unity. I noticed there's 4 little black patchs on the back of each card(not sure what these are) but they become very very hot to the touch while playing unity and I wonder if a heat sink is needed for this? As of now I play all my games at stock clocks but have gotten both cards to benchmark successfully at 1332mhz on the core and 6800mhz on the VRAM. I'm wondering if the lack of vrm and memory heat sinks would cause any loss in performance? If they are recommended which ones should I buy? Any help would be great thanks


VRMs are not an issue when you're just gaming, and going by touch is never a good way to measure heat. My VRMs are very hot to the touch at 50C, and that is an excellent VRM temperature, so going by touch is not ideal. If you have a fan controller with a temperature probe or something, maybe you could use that to check the temps properly. If you would like something just for peace of mind, the Cosmos Aluminum VRM Heatsinks are excellent. Just make sure you have a safe place to attach them to your card.


----------



## ALIENisGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> VRMs are not an issue when you're just gaming, and going by touch is never a good way to measure heat. My VRMs are very hot to the touch at 50C, and that is an excellent VRM temperature, so going by touch is not ideal. If you have a fan controller with a temperature probe or something, maybe you could use that to check the temps properly. If you would like something just for peace of mind, the Cosmos Aluminum VRM Heatsinks are excellent. Just make sure you have a safe place to attach them to your card.


Sorry for mini hi-jack,
My 680 has no heatsinks on VRM either and the only gaming i do atm is Blizzard games and they dont really stress the GPU. Its good to know that that aren't ABSOLUTELY necessary


----------



## gotovato

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> VRMs are not an issue when you're just gaming, and going by touch is never a good way to measure heat. My VRMs are very hot to the touch at 50C, and that is an excellent VRM temperature, so going by touch is not ideal. If you have a fan controller with a temperature probe or something, maybe you could use that to check the temps properly. If you would like something just for peace of mind, the Cosmos Aluminum VRM Heatsinks are excellent. Just make sure you have a safe place to attach them to your card.


So should I be worried about getting some heat sinks for the vrms? Or is that a little bit overkill? My core temps are great even when overclocked so there's no issues there. Also what safe place is there to attach them? As I mentioned its the little black patches on the back of the card that I fell get hot and I'm not sure what those are. Is it possible to lose performance without have the vrm heat sinks ? I too agree touching them is probably the least accurate way to tell if they're ower heating or not. Perhaps I should look into a laser thermometer? Thanks for the reply so far


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotovato*
> 
> So should I be worried about getting some heat sinks for the vrms? Or is that a little bit overkill? My core temps are great even when overclocked so there's no issues there. Also what safe place is there to attach them? As I mentioned its the little black patches on the back of the card that I fell get hot and I'm not sure what those are. Is it possible to lose performance without have the vrm heat sinks ? I too agree touching them is probably the least accurate way to tell if they're ower heating or not. Perhaps I should look into a laser thermometer? Thanks for the reply so far


Could you take a picture of the card please so I can see where you envision attaching them? In my head, I think you are referring to the VRAM, not the VRMs, but a picture to confirm would be nice. You won't loose any performance. I don't think a laser thermometer is necessary unless you had one laying around, or got one for very cheap. VRMs just don't get hot enough while gaming to cause problems.


----------



## falcon26

Does anyone know if the H90 corsair will fit in the front of the fractal R5 case? I want to put it in the front if I use the G10 on my 980......


----------



## Eudisld15

If it has the same fan mount as my xl R2, yes but you might not have enough tubing length.


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H90 corsair will fit in the front of the fractal R5 case? I want to put it in the front if I use the G10 on my 980......


I just checard Fractals website for you.
it SHOULD fit because it has the capability to. E.g: this is what it says

Cooling system

Front: 2 - 120/140 mm fans (included is 1 Fractal Design Dynamic GP14 fan, 1000 RPM speed)
Rear: 1 - 120/140 mm fan (included is 1 Fractal Design Dynamic GP14 fan, 1000 RPM speed)
Top: 3 - 120/140 mm fan (not included)
Bottom: 2 - 120/140 mm fan (not included)
Side: 1 - 120/140 mm fan (not included)
Fan controller: 3 step fan controller for up to 3 fans
Dust filters: Bottom and front intakes
Water cooling compatibility

Front - 360, 280, 240, 140 and 120 mm radiators of all thicknesses (requires removal of drive bays)
Top - 420, 360, 280, 240, 140 and 120 mm radiators. (A thickness limitation of 55mm for both radiator + fan applies on 420, 280 and 140 mm radiators) (420 and 360 mm radiators require removal of the ODD bay)
Bottom - 120 or 240 mm radiator (Use of radiators in the bottom position limits the PSU length to 165 mm)
Rear - 120 or 140 mm radiator


----------



## c0nspire

my g10 with an H55 in my R4 would not reach the front, it would reach the top,back and bottom.
It reaches from the cpu but wont reach from the gpu location.

It might reach in the front if you do a push intake with a spacer between the rad and the fan


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Hey everyone... I just installed one of these and it seems I have a VRM cooling question/problem on HD 7950. My card is throttling and I'm not quite sure why. This is a longish post sorry (read below for details) but essentially I'm wondering if I can regain stable (non-throttled) operation if I put a faster fan on the G10 bracket? The stock VRM/RAM plate *is* in place still, and the only thing cooling it before were the stock fan(s) blowing through the stock sink, but it seems with the installation of the G10 the card is throttling under high load which it wasn't doing before.

Long version (with details!):

I spent all day yesterday setting up some [AIO] liquid cooling for my HTPC and used a G10 bracket on my XFX DD 7950 together with a Thermaltake Water 3.0 Extreme (Asetek 240mm (2x120), 27mm thickness rad).

My XFX card is a Double Dissipation, TDKC revision, which means it's non-ref design, 9.3" long, and has no VRM temp reported to any monitoring programs. The _stock_ clock on my card is 925c/1250m; I have it OC'd to 1000c/1300m, +20% power tune and the card's voltage is stock.

The stock cooler consisted of essentially a heat-piped sink on the GPU, a backplate with thermal pads on VRM and RAM chips, and the fans/frame (2x 92mm slim fans). The main sink does not touch the VRM/RAM plate at all, it merely blows air on it from the fans through the fins.

I was able to put the G10 bracket on with the Asetek pump, and retain the factory backplate which contacts the VRM and RAM. I also added a couple little Zalman stick-on sinks to the VRM area on the top plate for good measure (or so I thought). The fitment seems great and the fact that I could keep the stock plate, well I thought that would mean I wouldn't need to worry about VRM cooling, but it seems like it's still an issue.

The _GPU_ cooling is a certain success... Previously with the stock cooker, with the 1000/1300 clocks, I was getting mid-to-high 30s for idle and at 62% fan speed I'd be in the mid-to-high 70s during GPU intensive gaming (and up above that with Furmark, causing the need for 100% fan speed during Furmark and low 80s temps). Now with the 240mm rad I'm getting 25C at idle and under load is in the high 30s. It gets into the low 40s with Furmark but I have another rather strange problem which I think is related to the VRM cooling (or lack thereof?). This is with the rad fans spinning at 1000rpm or less--pretty darn silent.

With the design of my card, the 92mm NZXT fan sits pretty much _directly_ over the VRM area. Considering the stock fan that was on top of this area was a 92mm slim fan and there being nothing other than the same plate I still have there, I figured this should be great for cooling the VRM. Indeed when the card is _idling_, this area is very cool to the touch, and the 1500rpm NZXT fan (being run at full voltage) seems to work fine. _However_, under load, my card throttles...badly!







The card will drop from it's Overdrive clock to 918Mhz to start with and then continue to drop if the load is still high (like with Furmark). With Furmark I've seen the clock drop as low as the 600Mhz range, all on its own. The VRM area does get very hot to the touch, the fan blowing on it notwithstanding. More importantly though, it will throttle in games as well. With less demanding games (and with Vsync limiting performance) my overclock holds and things run fine so that's good; _but_ with more demanding games and higher GPU load it will still drop after a while and then get into the 800Mhz range on its own.









I'm _guessing_ the throttling must be caused by the VRM temps because my GPU temps are about 38-40C when this is happening. The odd thing is the card's fan speed commanded (auto fan) is still 20%, so it seems the card's BIOS only changes fan speed based on GPU temp and not anything else. [Note that I do NOT have any fan connected to the card's header any longer but I'm just saying that's what the commanded speed is, so it's not as if it's trying to get more cooling.]

I have seen my clock drop to 925 and 918 Mhz on _occasion_ with the stock cooler but never for very long and usually it comes back up to 1000 no problem. However now with the Kraken bracket, once the load goes up after a few mins the clock comes down into the 800Mhz range. The only thing I can think of is the VRM doesn't have enough cooling. I'm guessing I'm going to need a 92mm fan of at least 2000rpm. Has anyone had the same happen and will this fix the problem? I've ordered a Gelid 92mm fan with a temp control probe; the fan runs from 900-2200RPM based on the probe which I figure I'll just attach to the back of the VRM area. It runs max speed at 42C so that should ramp up fine.

One thing bothering me though is that I just can't imagine the thin stock fan(s) were moving _that_ much air over the VRM plate to cool it much better than the NZXT included fan cools it. But unfortunately I have no idea what the VRM temps actually were and now are because the card has no monitoring available (how it knows to throttle under load I'm not sure but perhaps it has a sensor only the card's BIOS can read?). Could there be another reason the card is throttling so badly or do I really just need to get a stronger fan on the bracket and that will take care of it?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@WindowsRevenge

When you are playing these more demanding games, do you have Vsync on? Perhaps the card is downclocking because it doesn't need the additional power past 60Hz?

I wasn't sure if I read it right, but is the 92mm VRM fan plugged directly into a PSU through molex so that it is running at 100% speed? If not, make sure it is running at full speed.

My last guess is not a good one. Furmark might have partially broken your card. It is a terrible program and should never be used because it jams an unnecessary amount of heat and voltage through your card, and has the potential to break it. It happened to my stock MSI GTX 770 Lightning in early 2014. My card would start having problems similar, after running Kombustor. It would downclock even in something as simple as Unigine Heaven and then driver would fail, and display would go black. I am guessing that it just blew one of the VRMs and the card couldn't function without that one. Just a guess. Anyways, it leads me to believe that Kombustor might have broken your card. I really hope I am wrong.

If you put the stock cooler/heatsink back on, does the downclocking still happen? If it doesn't, then it is likely a VRM cooling problem, and this would be the first time I have ever seen this happen.

You could also try reinstalling the back plate, it should fit if you slim down, or completely remove the foam piece of padding on the back of the G10's backplate. This should help with cooling on both sides. I would try this first.

If you could post some pictures to help us visualize the specifics, that would be awesome.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @WindowsRevenge
> 
> When you are playing these more demanding games, do you have Vsync on? Perhaps the card is downclocking because it doesn't need the additional power past 60Hz?


Hey thanks for the reply...

Actually it works the opposite...if Vsync is on and limiting the framerate (thus making for lower GPU load) it holds the full clock (and overclock) just fine. However when the load is higher either when Vsync is off or when the game provides enough load on the GPU otherwise, then it will start to throttle back after maybe 30-40s of the high loading. When the card had the stock cooler this wouldn't happen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I wasn't sure if I read it right, but is the 92mm VRM fan plugged directly into a PSU through molex so that it is running at 100% speed? If not, make sure it is running at full speed.


It's actually plugged into the header on the Asetek pump but that is constant voltage, it varies fan speed with PWM. But I've tried it both ways and measured the fan RPM to be sure--it's at around 1500RPM, so it's definitely getting full voltage and spinning at full speed at all times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @My last guess is not a good one. Furmark might have partially broken your card. It is a terrible program and should never be used because it jams an unnecessary amount of heat and voltage through your card, and has the potential to break it. It happened to my stock MSI GTX 770 Lightning in early 2014. My card would start having problems similar, after running Kombustor. It would downclock even in something as simple as Unigine Heaven and then driver would fail, and display would go black. I am guessing that it just blew one of the VRMs and the card couldn't function without that one. Just a guess. Anyways, it leads me to believe that Kombustor might have broken your card. I really hope I am wrong.


That's an interesting idea but it seems much too related to the cooler-swap than anything. I've had the card for probably a year and a half now and have used Furmark many times (usually just the benchmarks which are quick but on occasion the 15min tests) without issues. Every time I've changed hardware and/or Windows installs or whatever I have tested everything including using Furmark for short stints to make sure everything is working right. For example this card had been on one board with two CPUs meaning it was tested when I got it then with the CPU change. Then the board and CPU were changed and then I'd done more Furmark testing. Then I did at least a couple Windows installs through that so at least another round of checking with Furmark to add there. Before I did the cooler swap I tested it out again because I wanted to see the exact before/after cooling performance of the mod. So it was working perfectly fine literally one day before the swap. The only real difference between one test and the next was the fact that I swapped the cooler on the card. I mean I can put the stock cooler back on of course (which I may eventually try) but for now I'm thinking it has to be the VRM state. The card is throttling so that would seem to me like it's trying to prevent damage rather than having already been damaged (there's no artifacts or freezing or crashing or anything of that nature, for example). The card is still under warranty (and cooler swapping does not void the warranty either) so I'm at least covered but I'm hoping it's not RMA time just from a couple Furmark tests (the short ones) after putting the G10 bracket on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> If you put the stock cooler/heatsink back on, does the downclocking still happen? If it doesn't, then it is likely a VRM cooling problem, and this would be the first time I have ever seen this happen.


I think I'm going to try that but first I'm going to try a faster fan (I won't get the Gelid fan from HK for a few weeks so I'll have to pick up a ~2000RPM 92mm somewhere and see how that goes first). It just seems really odd the card would just "break" like that. I'm sure stranger things have happened but I've seen other card failures in the past and nothing like this--usually artifacting, crashing, etc. but not this. The only reason I know there's something wrong is because I'm specifically using Afterburner/RivaTuner to show the clock and temps while gaming; otherwise I'd probably not notice until I saw bad frame drops or something because there's no visual problems and no system problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You could also try reinstalling the back plate, it should fit if you slim down, or completely remove the foam piece of padding on the back of the G10's backplate. This should help with cooling on both sides. I would try this first.


Not sure what you mean there but the stock plate is still in place even with the G10 and the Asetek block on there. I'll go over quickly how the card was before and after the cooler swap:

Card cooler components:

*Stock:
*-VRM/RAM plate--thermal pads on mosfets and RAM chips. Secured with screws to card.

-Copper heatpipe/alum fin heatsink assembly, TIM between heatsink plate and GPU. Secured with screws to card.
(There is no backplate/bracket/anything on the back side of the card, only screws.)

-Fan bracket/shroud assembly, which attaches over everything and is secured to the plate mentioned above.

-Note that the heatsink assembly for the GPU does not contact the plate in any way, it merely blows air onto it from the fans blowing down/through the heatsink.

*Modified:
*-VRM/RAM plate VRM/RAM plate--thermal pads on mosfets and RAM chips. Secured with screws to card.
^This part is still installed, exactly as stock. The only thing I did was add a couple stick on alum. sinks to the VRM area (maybe I should remove these?)

-G10 bracket, with Water 3.0 Extreme block/pump, secured with backplate (I removed the foam and used thinner foam by the way because the included is ridiculously thick and I have some large caps on the backside of the GPU). The Water 3.0 was brand new so I had cleaned off the GPU with isopropyl and the TIM is just the included/pre-applied stuff on the block.

-NZXT-packaged fan attached with the G10 and running at full speed/voltage.

Essentially the differences between stock and now is the fans/shroud and GPU heatsink have been removed and replaced with the G10, the Water 3.0 block, and the 92mm fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> If you could post some pictures to help us visualize the specifics, that would be awesome.


Interestingly when I pulled the entire system apart (I modified the case to mount a single 120mm rad up top as well) I took pics of everything apart and together again. What I didn't take pics of was the videocard specifically, before/after/during, so all I have are the pics of the card, with the G10 on it. However it seems I'm going to have to dismantle things again so I'll try to get pics then. I can take a pic of the heatsink assembly that's off the card now but that's pretty straightforward I think; either way I'll take some when I pull the card out. It's ashame the way the fan is mounted to the G10 too--you have to remove the whole thing to swap the fan


----------



## Trondster

Just a quick question: what have you set as the max power maximum? Could it be that the card is throttling because you reach the power limit? This is especially relevant if the card is overclocked.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Just a quick question: what have you set as the max power maximum? Could it be that the card is throttling because you reach the power limit? This is especially relevant if the card is overclocked.


Yeah it's at +20%. But even at 0%, I've never seen the card throttle like _this_, with the stock cooler. The most I've ever seen it throttle before was to 918Mhz (7Mhz below stock) and that was at 0%; at 10% it was fine and I never saw it throttle from 1000 with the fans at 62% (manual) but I just boosted it up to 20% to be on the safe side and never had a problem.

I've left it at stock clock for now, it seems in most games I have it works okay because Vsync limits GPU loading to 40-70%. More demanding games will load it to 99% though and after a short time I still see it start to throttle into the 800Mhz range. I'll pull the thing apart tomorrow and see what I can find out.

The only other thing I was thinking other than VRM temperature was the fact that I have no fans plugged into the card. Anyone know if it is possible the card is throttling because it has no RPM feedback? Again though, I would think if that were the case it would ramp its fan demand up but it just stays fixed at 20% because the GPU temp is so low. I mean it's either that, the VRM temp, or the card is somehow busted now. I don't really believe the card is the problem though because it works fine without artifacts or crashing...it's just the heavy throttling that's become a problem.


----------



## falcon26

Well I ordered the H90 and the G10 to put on my MSI 980 well see what happens....


----------



## Trondster

Try setting the max power to the maximum (now that you have adequate cooling) and try again.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Try setting the max power to the maximum (now that you have adequate cooling) and try again.


? +20% _is_ the maximum.


----------



## falcon26

Not sure if this has been asked before, but I am thinking of spray painting the G10 a more matte black using vinyl spray paint. Has anyone done such a thing?


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Not sure if this has been asked before, but I am thinking of spray painting the G10 a more matte black using vinyl spray paint. Has anyone done such a thing?


I don't see why you couldn't. I'd suggest if you're going with black to use either a red or black G10 to start with as you'll probably require more coats over the white to get it covered well. Are you thinking something like plasti-dip? Sounds fine to me.


----------



## falcon26

When using that 4 pin adapter for the fan, can you use a 3 pin fan even though its a 4 pin adapter?


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> When using that 4 pin adapter for the fan, can you use a 3 pin fan even though its a 4 pin adapter?


Not sure what you mean there...what adapter and what fan? If you're talking about the one that comes with the G10 it's a 3-pin fan, no adapter is included.


----------



## falcon26

The adapter that allows you to plug the fan from the G10 directly into the video card.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> ? +20% _is_ the maximum.


Depends on your drivers, and if you have unlocked any advanced overclock settings.
Try to monitor the power usage, and see if it hits the maximum when the card is throttling.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Okay so again, everything is still the same the only difference is the cooler on the card. So I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with trying to get even more than +20% powertune (?) when it was working *perfectly fine before*, with the stock cooler, at even +10% just a few days ago (the only reason I had put it at +20% was just to be sure it'd never have a problem as my PSU is fine to handle it and my temps, even with the stock cooler, were still ok). So I'm already at higher power limit than I need to be and the card is throttling heavily. The card is *not* heavily overclocked here, it merely have it at 1000/1300 (75Mhz/50Mhz overclock) which I've had it at since I got it over a year ago. By all accounts 1000Mhz core is quite fine on a 7950/280, with most stock coolers, nevermind liquid cooling. I have no plans to go higher even with the better cooling, I was just trying to quiet it down from the 62% fan speed I was having to run when gaming to keep temps where I wanted them.

_Anyway_...I just took the thing apart again and I took the NZXT fan off and compared the air flow to another 92mm fan I pulled from another system of mine, just connected to 12V. It seems pretty clear the NZXT fan has fairly weak airflow so I'm thinking this _is_ the problem. The fan I compared it to is 1800RPM (300RPM faster) and seems to flow a lot more air just putting my hand in front of them when powered. I haven't put it back together yet (because the fan I pulled from another PC has to go back in there and I have no other 92mm fans) so I'm gonna go and pick up a fan somewhere today and see how that works out. I ordered the Gelid fan from HK so it won't be here for a few weeks so I need something in the interim.

I did take a couple pics as requested btw:

This is the card with the HS and fan assembly removed but the VRM/RAM plate still in place (you can see the two little sinks I added on top of the VRM area):









This is the back of the card (with the stock cooler on obviously the NZXT bracket would not be there, all there would be is four screws holding the stock HS to the die):









Finally, this is the picture of the back of the card's stock HSF assembly:


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> The adapter that allows you to plug the fan from the G10 directly into the video card.


I imagine it would work the same was as the mobo header, if you plug a 3pin into it it will run at 100%, if you plu g a 4 pin into it the video card would control the speeds. Im not certain though.


----------



## c0nspire

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Okay so again, everything is still the same the only difference is the cooler on the card. So I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with trying to get even more than +20% powertune (?) when it was working *perfectly fine before*, with the stock cooler, at even +10% just a few days ago (the only reason I had put it at +20% was just to be sure it'd never have a problem as my PSU is fine to handle it and my temps, even with the stock cooler, were still ok). So I'm already at higher power limit than I need to be and the card is throttling heavily. The card is *not* heavily overclocked here, it merely have it at 1000/1300 (75Mhz/50Mhz overclock) which I've had it at since I got it over a year ago. By all accounts 1000Mhz core is quite fine on a 7950/280, with most stock coolers, nevermind liquid cooling. I have no plans to go higher even with the better cooling, I was just trying to quiet it down from the 62% fan speed I was having to run when gaming to keep temps where I wanted them.
> 
> _Anyway_...I just took the thing apart again and I took the NZXT fan off and compared the air flow to another 92mm fan I pulled from another system of mine, just connected to 12V. It seems pretty clear the NZXT fan has fairly weak airflow so I'm thinking this _is_ the problem. The fan I compared it to is 1800RPM (300RPM faster) and seems to flow a lot more air just putting my hand in front of them when powered. I haven't put it back together yet (because the fan I pulled from another PC has to go back in there and I have no other 92mm fans) so I'm gonna go and pick up a fan somewhere today and see how that works out. I ordered the Gelid fan from HK so it won't be here for a few weeks so I need something in the interim.
> 
> I did take a couple pics as requested btw:
> 
> This is the card with the HS and fan assembly removed but the VRM/RAM plate still in place (you can see the two little sinks I added on top of the VRM area):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the back of the card (with the stock cooler on obviously the NZXT bracket would not be there, all there would be is four screws holding the stock HS to the die):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, this is the picture of the back of the card's stock HSF assembly:






@WindowsRevenge
If the AIO making full contact with the chip? do you maybe need a shim or something? I could see it throttling if the gpu temps where getting too warm. I'm wondering if that pcb plate if causing the AIO to not properly seat on the face of the chip. Clearly the stock heatsink contact section is raised at the GPU. Does the chip on the gpu sit lower than the metal cap around it?

after doing some quick reading on the net it appears you may in fact need a shim so the die makes proper contact with the water block as the metal shim around the die sits higher than the die itself

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14971/ex-blc-1051/EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_HD7970_Cu_Adapter.html#

and again here right from the nzxt website.
Quote:


> Today I am going to talk about the AMD GPU die height and why you might need a shim, with certain AMD cards like the 7970, 7950, and the 290x


http://support.nzxt.com/hc/en-us/articles/203452840-GPU-Die-Height-for-AMD-Cards-


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> 
> @WindowsRevenge
> If the AIO making full contact with the chip? do you maybe need a shim or something? I could see it throttling if the gpu temps where getting too warm. I'm wondering if that pcb plate if causing the AIO to not properly seat on the face of the chip. Clearly the stock heatsink contact section is raised at the GPU. Does the chip on the gpu sit lower than the metal cap around it?


Yeah the contact is great, at first I wondered if a shim was needed but the GPU temp is nice and low--won't get past 42C in Furmark*, in gaming it's in the mid to high 30s--approximately 40 Celsius-degrees lower than the stock cooler







I can't imagine contact being an issue. I don't think it's the GPU temp at all, it's throttling from the VRM--I mean it has to, what else would cause it to throttle like that? The only problem is I can't tell what the VRM temps were before/after because there's no reporting sensor for that (or at least no program that can read it). I'm still thinking there is temperature sensing on the board but only the card's BIOS can read it, and that's what's causing the throttle. I'll be sure once I get a stronger fan on the G10 bracket. If that fails, I'll go back to the stock cooler and see if it's working then and go from there if it's not.

Honestly I'm thinking of how much better a full-cover waterblock and custom loop (or even an H220 or Triton) would have been here. The problem is my XFX card is non-ref and the only block that might possibly fit it is an XFX-specific Heatkiller block, and even then my card is very _slightly_ different from the two cards that block is guaranteed to fit. Not to mentlion the cost would have been quite a bit more ($100 Water 3.0 + $30 G10 vs. a Heatkiller block on its own that costs about $150, not to mention everything else involved). Oh well I'm just crossing my fingers a better fan for the VRM area works.

*Note here I mean as long as it holds a clock over 900Mhz...once it starts to throttle the GPU temp comes down even lower, accordingly. But it's not throttling 'cause of the GPU temp. Needless to say I'm not going to be using Furmark or even running it at higher than stock clock, until I have it running right again (I'll just use game benchmarks).


----------



## c0nspire

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Yeah the contact is great, at first I wondered if a shim was needed but the GPU temp is nice and low--won't get past 42C in Furmark*, in gaming it's in the mid to high 30s--approximately 40 Celsius-degrees lower than the stock cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't imagine contact being an issue. I don't think it's the GPU temp at all, it's throttling from the VRM--I mean it has to, what else would cause it to throttle like that? The only problem is I can't tell what the VRM temps were before/after because there's no reporting sensor for that (or at least no program that can read it). I'm still thinking there is temperature sensing on the board but only the card's BIOS can read it, and that's what's causing the throttle. I'll be sure once I get a stronger fan on the G10 bracket. If that fails, I'll go back to the stock cooler and see if it's working then and go from there if it's not.
> 
> Honestly I'm thinking of how much better a full-cover waterblock and custom loop (or even an H220 or Triton) would have been here. The problem is my XFX card is non-ref and the only block that might possibly fit it is an XFX-specific Heatkiller block, and even then my card is very _slightly_ different from the two cards that block is guaranteed to fit. Not to mentlion the cost would have been quite a bit more ($100 Water 3.0 + $30 G10 vs. a Heatkiller block on its own that costs about $150, not to mention everything else involved). Oh well I'm just crossing my fingers a better fan for the VRM area works.
> 
> *Note here I mean as long as it holds a clock over 900Mhz...once it starts to throttle the GPU temp comes down even lower, accordingly. But it's not throttling 'cause of the GPU temp. Needless to say I'm not going to be using Furmark or even running it at higher than stock clock, until I have it running right again (I'll just use game benchmarks).






What does the monitoring software say your vrms are at temp wise? I thought i remember reading that vrms can handle temps up to 120 degrees or something crazy like that. my 290x (which is like a mini furnace) i don't see higher than 70/75 with the g10 stock fan. I posted my temps in post 2670 in this thread

*edit jsut realized you cant see your vrm temp, have you installed hwinfo? what brand 7950 is it? (xfx that will teach me not to skim)


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> What does the monitoring software say your vrms are at temp wise? I thought i remember reading that vrms can handle temps up to 120 degrees or something crazy like that. my 290x (which is like a mini furnace) i don't see higher than 70/75 with the g10 stock fan. I posted my temps in post 2670 in this thread
> 
> *edit jsut realized you cant see your vrm temp, have you installed hwinfo? what brand 7950 is it? (xfx that will teach me not to skim)


Hey just got your PM and replied. I'm going to give a better fan a try now and will post back a little later with the result. Yeah I tried several programs to read the VRM temp, but nothing seems to give me any info on it. I have HWInfo I can't remember if I tried that before but I'll start it up when I boot it again though I'm not getting my hopes up. It's actually good the card is good non-ref on the one hand (the ref. length 7950 would not have fit in my case with the rad) and it's higher-clocked as well, but on the other hand it makes it hard to find a water block, and it makes it such that there are non-accessible readings like VRM temp and no voltage control either. Of course I'm probably not going to have the card forever either but I'm thinking it'll be at least another year with it before having to (or wanting to) upgrade it.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I do not think a stronger 92mm fan is the fix. The stock 92mm fan is plenty strong at full speed. You are the only person I have ever seen have a problem with this in the two years this product has been around. You could maybe buy a laser temperature sensor or something just to test out the temps, and then return it, or borrow one from a friend if you know someone with one. I highly suggest you install the stock cooler and heatsink and see if the problem still persists. Do this now before waiting weeks for a new fan.


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I do not think a stronger 92mm fan is the fix. The stock 92mm fan is plenty strong at full speed. You are the only person I have ever seen have a problem with this in the two years this product has been around. You could maybe buy a laser temperature sensor or something just to test out the temps, and then return it, or borrow one from a friend if you know someone with one. I highly suggest you install the stock cooler and heatsink and see if the problem still persists. Do this now before waiting weeks for a new fan.


pretty sure he has said when the stock cooler is on the problem goes away.

Also i believe xfx has lifetime warranty on its video cards


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> pretty sure he has said when the stock cooler is on the problem goes away.
> 
> Also i believe xfx has lifetime warranty on its video cards


When the stock cooler was on, he didn't have a problem. When he mounted the G10, that is when the problems started, and he hasn't tried with the stock cooler back on yet, at least that is how I understand it. He needs to try it again with the stock cooler mounted.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I do not think a stronger 92mm fan is the fix. The stock 92mm fan is plenty strong at full speed.


Nope not a chance! It's more like a _gentle breeze_. Compared to the 1800RPM fan I put on there (an Arctic Cooling F9) it's a big difference just powering the fans and putting my hand in front of them to feel the flow.

Anyway after spending several hours on this (it took me well over an hour to even get the card out and the cooler off, ugh damn cramped build)...but guess what? The problem was *100%* a VRM cooling issue. Here's what happened when I changed the fan... No more throttling in any game at stock speed. I did several game benchmarks...Tomb Raider, F1 2013, Thief, and no throttling. Went back to my original OC and no issues whatsoever either. I put my finger on the plate in the VRM area, before where it was very hot to the touch under load? And yeah now it's *much* cooler!

Then I went on to Furmark testing and I can get through the 720p benchmark several times in a row without any throttling either. I did hit a hitch though. At 1080p, it will throttle into the 800Mhz range still so clearly even with the 1800RPM fan on the G10 it's not getting enough cooling to prevent a throttle, something it was getting enough of with the stock fans running at 62% (about 2500RPM).

Still the problem has _completely_ disappeared in games so it's not a big deal now (not like I run furmark for fun or anything); I'm confident once I get the Gelid fan (which will ramp up to 2200RPM) it should be good--I just hope it's not too loud at that speed. I've now been running the Tomb Raider benchmark at really high settings (that I only average 40FPS on--1080p, Ultimate settings with TressFX on and SSSA on as well) for the last 10 minutes straight, GPU loaded at 98% the whole time and the clock is rock steady at 1000/1300. I don't play the game at settings this high ('cause I like to be at 60FPS) so it seems like I will have no issues. I could not even do this benchmark for long enough for the results box to appear (one full revolution, if you have the game you know what I mean) before throttling with the craptastic NZXT fan. It's just far too weak to cool the VRM on my card, period. Clearly this board was designed so that the stock fans do contribute significantly to cooling the VRM. Without enough airflow it just won't work right. It's also possible XFX was conservative with VRM limits, causing throttling to occur early.

Well now the bench as been running 20mins, always at 98-99% and yep looks fine to me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You are the only person I have ever seen have a problem with this in the two years this product has been around.


First time for everything. As I said the problem was *undoubtedly* VRM cooling--the fact that it only gets warm to the touch now compared to very HOT before; and the fact that the throttlilng is history is proof enough.

The only thing that sucks now is I'm a couple degrees warmer it looks like (idling now at 27C instead of 25C), probably because I had to replace the TIM with some MX-2 that I had on hand and perhaps could do a better job of applying the paste. Given this whole process takes a long time in my particular situation, I'm going to do that tomorrow I guess, hopefully get my temps back down to where they were. I wish NZXT would have made the mount for the fan such that it was removable without removing the whole thing :S A design mis-step IMO. That and included a better fan but I guess since you say no one else has had a problem I guess it's good enough for most cards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You could maybe buy a laser temperature sensor or something just to test out the temps, and then return it, or borrow one from a friend if you know someone with one.


I had actually thought of that, but seems like it's unnecessary now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I highly suggest you install the stock cooler and heatsink and see if the problem still persists. Do this now before waiting weeks for a new fan.


I certainly had planned on doing that had the problem persisted but since it's all fine and dandy now (other than Furmark which as you say is pointless to run anyway) I'm glad to kiss the stock cooler goodbye









Yeah so I'm upwards of 27 mins in TR now, temp is holding 38C, clock is holding 1000/1300, and frame rate averaging 40. No artifacts or freezing or crashing. Now it's just one to actually do some gameplay to be sure!


----------



## c0nspire

That's super weird.

You would have had to disassemble to swap the fan, maybe the reassembly process had something to do with the fix. Maybe the nzxt fan you got was defective.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> That's super weird.
> 
> You would have had to disassemble to swap the fan, maybe the reassembly process had something to do with the fix. Maybe the nzxt fan you got was defective.


Well I mean it _was_ running at the proper/rated 1500RPM, it wasn't making any strange noises, I'm pretty sure it's as designed. It just wasn't flowing enough air in my situation. I seriously doubt the disassembly/reassembly fixed anything because when I put my finger on the plate in that area it's much cooler now under load, no ifs, ands, or buts about that.

Actually I had the same problem as you the first time I reassembled it today, with the block not contacting the die--GPU temp was high, 30C idle and ran right up to 90C first game I ran (!), I quickly just flicked the power switch on the PSU, lol. Pulled it out _again_ and got the stupid block on there right--what a damn hassle and I actually want to do it again to get the TIM application better, silly me!*

The unfortunate part is the faster fan _is_ adding a slight amount of noise (not that much though) but I think the temp control fan will be optimal. Though it will probably be louder than the current fan when it ramps up, it will also be able to automatically spin down when not gaming, which seems good enough to me. As long as the whole thing ends up quieter than before during gaming, I'll be happy. As I said I won't have this card forever of course so hopefully the next card I get in the future will still be able to use the bracket and not have VRM temp problems.

I actually have two more of the stick-on heatsinks which are slightly larger so I'm going to add those to the _back_ of the card, Arctic Cooling style (the Accelero Hybrid uses a similar technique but with an entire heatsink you stick on the back). Hopefully the little sinks will pull some more heat out of the VRM area. Really I could put four on there so maybe I should buy some more of those little guys for the back side of the card.

*Really this whole thing's been a headache, but all's well that ends well...or something like that :|


----------



## TheBoom

Hi guys, I'm considering the kraken g10 for my zotac 970 vanilla and I'm afraid of running into issues that some of you have been experiencing. Currently my card can hold a stable clock of 1418mhz core and 4ghz mem with a modded bios for TDP (can't go any higher cause Zotac hard locked the voltage at 1.212mv). The issue is with the increased TDP is that my temps go up to 91c on the stock cooler (fans at 100%) with TIM reapplied and the card starts to throttle when it hits the max temp limit of 91c.

Hence why i'm considering the kraken g10 as a replacement. However my card is half-sized and the fan on the g10 is going to do nothing to cool the VRMs. I'm afraid the VRMs may cause throttling or worse just overheat and fry. The card has small heatsinks on the VRMs but those are also in contact with the bigger stock heatsink. So if I remove the stock heatsink I'm pretty sure the VRM temps are going to increase.

I have a few small heatsinks that I can attach to the underside of the card but I'm not sure how much that is going to help. Do you guys have any suggestions or do you think I should scrap this idea completely?

I also have a side fan blowing into the card but I doubt it do much for the VRMs.

Edit : Currently with the stock cooler the core temp is causing the throttling but I havent run into any issues with the VRMs causing throttling so I assume even with the core running at 91c the VRMs seem to sufficiently cooled.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I'm glad you got it sorted out, but I don't think it is fair to call the included NZXT Fan crap when it has worked for everyone else except you. I think your card is the problem, because digging deeper, that particular model is known to have VRM throttling problems. Interesting how it would happen with the G10 and not stock cooler because sources all around the internet show an improvement of VRM temps going from stock cooler to G10. Anyways, you got it fixed and that is what is important!


----------



## falcon26

Just an FYI with anyone using the MSI Gaming Gtx 980. The fan header on this is not a standard 4 pin. Its some custom 8 pin one. So you can not use the 4 pin adapter cable to plug the 92mm fan into the video card. This sucks for me, because I already have 1 H90 cooling my CPU. I only have 4 fan headers on my motherboard. So I need a minimum 5 headers so I'm one short. So now I have to buy a fan hub if I want to go with the G10 on my 980.....


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm considering the kraken g10 for my zotac 970 vanilla and I'm afraid of running into issues that some of you have been experiencing. Currently my card can hold a stable clock of 1418mhz core and 4ghz mem with a modded bios for TDP (can't go any higher cause Zotac hard locked the voltage at 1.212mv). The issue is with the increased TDP is that my temps go up to 91c on the stock cooler (fans at 100%) with TIM reapplied and the card starts to throttle when it hits the max temp limit of 91c.
> 
> Hence why i'm considering the kraken g10 as a replacement. However my card is half-sized and the fan on the g10 is going to do nothing to cool the VRMs. I'm afraid the VRMs may cause throttling or worse just overheat and fry. The card has small heatsinks on the VRMs but those are also in contact with the bigger stock heatsink. So if I remove the stock heatsink I'm pretty sure the VRM temps are going to increase.
> 
> I have a few small heatsinks that I can attach to the underside of the card but I'm not sure how much that is going to help. Do you guys have any suggestions or do you think I should scrap this idea completely?
> 
> I also have a side fan blowing into the card but I doubt it do much for the VRMs.
> 
> Edit : Currently with the stock cooler the core temp is causing the throttling but I havent run into any issues with the VRMs causing throttling so I assume even with the core running at 91c the VRMs seem to sufficiently cooled.


Hmm if you have the Zotac card I looked up online it looks like it's actually "reversed" from most other cards. That is the VRM area is on the bracket side, to the "left" of the GPU die. A G10's fan will definitely not blow anywhere near that unless you can mount it upside-down but I don't think that's possible as it will probably be blocked by the mb on the bottom and the card bracket on the other side. On the plus side a GTX 970 is not that high powered (I think it's 145W IIRC), so the VRM temp might not be a huge issue. Then again it is a proprietary board design it looks like so who knows how they designed the VRM--like mine it may heavily rely on the stock fan above it, to cool it. You may want to rig up a fan _somehow_ to blow down on the VRM area. Otherwise I'd suggest going with a full block (if anyone makes one for your card) or going with another card altogether, just to avoid headaches. I'm surprised your core goes as high as 91C though (!), seems high for a 970. How fast are the fans spinning when you're at that temp?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm glad you got it sorted out, but I don't think it is fair to call the included NZXT Fan crap when it has worked for everyone else except you. I think your card is the problem, because digging deeper, that particular model is known to have VRM throttling problems. Interesting how it would happen with the G10 and not stock cooler because sources all around the internet show an improvement of VRM temps going from stock cooler to G10. Anyways, you got it fixed and that is what is important!


Fair enough, the fan is what it is--1500RPM, relatively low flow. Very quiet and all. The stupid thing now is it seems like the VRM may require nearly as much noise to cool fully/properly, as the entire card did before







I'm going to try a few other things like the sinks and all, and use a slightly more powerful rad fan for the bottom of the rad (the rad is directly in front of the card), and see if that helps it out. It seems like the only great solution here would be a full block, but I'll just tweak it as is for now and see how good I can get it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Just an FYI with anyone using the MSI Gaming Gtx 980. The fan header on this is not a standard 4 pin. Its some custom 8 pin one. So you can not use the 4 pin adapter cable to plug the 92mm fan into the video card. This sucks for me, because I already have 1 H90 cooling my CPU. I only have 4 fan headers on my motherboard. So I need a minimum 5 headers so I'm one short. So now I have to buy a fan hub if I want to go with the G10 on my 980.....


I'm still not sure of this adapter cable you're talking about, my G10 didn't come with one? But if you just mean a separately acquired one, it does suck you can't use it. You can always just get a fan-connector-to-molex (or SATA power) adapter and plug the fan in that way. Either that or a fan splitter cable would work as well (which might be better than a hub if space is an issue).


----------



## c0nspire

@theboom


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm considering the kraken g10 for my zotac 970 vanilla and I'm afraid of running into issues that some of you have been experiencing. Currently my card can hold a stable clock of 1418mhz core and 4ghz mem with a modded bios for TDP (can't go any higher cause Zotac hard locked the voltage at 1.212mv). The issue is with the increased TDP is that my temps go up to 91c on the stock cooler (fans at 100%) with TIM reapplied and the card starts to throttle when it hits the max temp limit of 91c.
> 
> Hence why i'm considering the kraken g10 as a replacement. However my card is half-sized and the fan on the g10 is going to do nothing to cool the VRMs. I'm afraid the VRMs may cause throttling or worse just overheat and fry. The card has small heatsinks on the VRMs but those are also in contact with the bigger stock heatsink. So if I remove the stock heatsink I'm pretty sure the VRM temps are going to increase.
> 
> I have a few small heatsinks that I can attach to the underside of the card but I'm not sure how much that is going to help. Do you guys have any suggestions or do you think I should scrap this idea completely?
> 
> I also have a side fan blowing into the card but I doubt it do much for the VRMs.
> 
> Edit : Currently with the stock cooler the core temp is causing the throttling but I havent run into any issues with the VRMs causing throttling so I assume even with the core running at 91c the VRMs seem to sufficiently cooled.






There was somebody else in this thread with a card that the vrms couldn't be cooled using the g10 bracket because they were on he opposite side on the gpu die. If you go back a couple pages you should be able to find the post and the solution.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Just an FYI with anyone using the MSI Gaming Gtx 980. The fan header on this is not a standard 4 pin. Its some custom 8 pin one. So you can not use the 4 pin adapter cable to plug the 92mm fan into the video card. This sucks for me, because I already have 1 H90 cooling my CPU. I only have 4 fan headers on my motherboard. So I need a minimum 5 headers so I'm one short. So now I have to buy a fan hub if I want to go with the G10 on my 980.....


Buy a Y-Splitter.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@TheBoom

Your card having the VRMs on the opposite side is not ideal, there are some products that you can buy to get direct airflow on the VRMs though.

The Antec Spot Cool being one of them. There is also a dual fan mount PCI bracket.


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Hmm if you have the Zotac card I looked up online it looks like it's actually "reversed" from most other cards. That is the VRM area is on the bracket side, to the "left" of the GPU die. A G10's fan will definitely not blow anywhere near that unless you can mount it upside-down but I don't think that's possible as it will probably be blocked by the mb on the bottom and the card bracket on the other side. On the plus side a GTX 970 is not that high powered (I think it's 145W IIRC), so the VRM temp might not be a huge issue. Then again it is a proprietary board design it looks like so who knows how they designed the VRM--like mine it may heavily rely on the stock fan above it, to cool it. You may want to rig up a fan _somehow_ to blow down on the VRM area. Otherwise I'd suggest going with a full block (if anyone makes one for your card) or going with another card altogether, just to avoid headaches. I'm surprised your core goes as high as 91C though (!), seems high for a 970. How fast are the fans spinning when you're at that temp?


Yeah its a half sized "reversed" card. Fans are at 100% actually. I've come up with a solution to mount the g10s fan directly on the pci slot under the card. I just hope that and adding some small heatsinks to the back of the card where the VRMs are will cool them enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> @theboom
> 
> There was somebody else in this thread with a card that the vrms couldn't be cooled using the g10 bracket because they were on he opposite side on the gpu die. If you go back a couple pages you should be able to find the post and the solution.


Yup I found the post thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @TheBoom
> 
> Your card having the VRMs on the opposite side is not ideal, there are some products that you can buy to get direct airflow on the VRMs though.
> 
> The Antec Spot Cool being one of them. There is also a dual fan mount PCI bracket.


Thanks! Getting the bracket to mount the g10s fan. Do you think its enough or should I install 2 x 120mm fans instead?


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> Thanks! Getting the bracket to mount the g10s fan. Do you think its enough or should I install 2 x 120mm fans instead?


If you can actually fit and mount a 120mm fan it would probably be better as it will flow more air and all things being equal should be less noise. I'm kinda getting annoyed by the noise from this stronger 92mm fan I put on mine TBH. I didn't think it was that loud but yeah it's now the loudest thing in the case at idle







Hoping my temp control fan comes in soon. I guess I could also rig up the current fan to the GPU's header and at least have speed control so it's quieter at idle--ugh always the tweaking of things.

Anyway make sure you add sinks to the FETs and/or backside of the card too though. I think it should probably work out okay even with a 92mm fan blowing on it given people are having good results with the 1500RPM NZXT fan, but you won't really know until you try it out. BTW, does your card report VRM temperatures?


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> Yeah its a half sized "reversed" card. Fans are at 100% actually. I've come up with a solution to mount the g10s fan directly on the pci slot under the card. I just hope that and adding some small heatsinks to the back of the card where the VRMs are will cool them enough.
> Yup I found the post thanks!
> Thanks! Getting the bracket to mount the g10s fan. Do you think its enough or should I install 2 x 120mm fans instead?


That bracket will only hold 1x or 2x 80/92mm fans. im sure you could mount a 120 on it using screws only in one end and letting the other end float out of the bracket.

1 fan should be plenty of air flow tho, I don't think you would need dual fans for your vrms


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> If you can actually fit and mount a 120mm fan it would probably be better as it will flow more air and all things being equal should be less noise. I'm kinda getting annoyed by the noise from this stronger 92mm fan I put on mine TBH. I didn't think it was that loud but yeah it's now the loudest thing in the case at idle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping my temp control fan comes in soon. I guess I could also rig up the current fan to the GPU's header and at least have speed control so it's quieter at idle--ugh always the tweaking of things.
> 
> Anyway make sure you add sinks to the FETs and/or backside of the card too though. I think it should probably work out okay even with a 92mm fan blowing on it given people are having good results with the 1500RPM NZXT fan, but you won't really know until you try it out. BTW, does your card report VRM temperatures?


Nope I can't see my VRM temps with either MSI AB or GPU-Z. The description of the bracket says it allows up to 2 x 120mm fans so i guess there should be a way to mount them. What I was thinking is that the smaller fan might probably give more concentrated airflow to the VRMs rather than 2 120mm fans that just blow over the entire card. I guess I will have to try it out and see then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> That bracket will only hold 1x or 2x 80/92mm fans. im sure you could mount a 120 on it using screws only in one end and letting the other end float out of the bracket.
> 
> 1 fan should be plenty of air flow tho, I don't think you would need dual fans for your vrms


I hope so too. The VRMs get really hot even on the stock cooler. Can't imagine how its going to be running naked. But since my core temp is going to be significantly reduced I guess its going to help the VRM temps as well.


----------



## falcon26

Still debating weather I should install the G10 or not. I have the H90 and G10 sitting here. But after looking at the custom PCB on the MSI 980 I'm not so sure. And not having the fan headers to do it. My card on stock cooling is idling at about 42 and loading at about 62 which is not to bad really.


----------



## ALIENisGOD

with those temps I wouldnt worry to much about not using it. It seems custom PCB's are kind of problematic for the G10 to be set up properly. I think these kind of setups benefit reference models / standard leaf blower cooler models the most.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Still debating weather I should install the G10 or not. I have the H90 and G10 sitting here. But after looking at the custom PCB on the MSI 980 I'm not so sure. And not having the fan headers to do it. My card on stock cooling is idling at about 42 and loading at about 62 which is not to bad really.


Yeah that's not bad at all for temperatures. The more important question is probably, "what's the noise like?" If it's not too noisy either, I'd just sell the G10 and H90 and/or use them for something else.


----------



## Fantomau

my evga gtx 970 idles at 34c, so i decided not to install the g10


----------



## GlennVandendijk

I was wondering if my GPU would be compatible with the nzxt kraken g10, it should work but since mine is not a reference design ( i think ) i wanted to make sure before buying it. the website said the following: http://i.imgur.com/QXL5Gay.jpg

My GPU:

MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 Gaming 4GB http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/346972/msi-geforce-gtx-760-4gb-gaming/specificaties/

My entire pc:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ovswshsd6ik5Fs1--tjoUg_QxKkqMFsnBtpKcC80Dmc/edit#gid=0


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlennVandendijk*
> 
> I was wondering if my GPU would be compatible with the nzxt kraken g10, it should work but since mine is not a reference design ( i think ) i wanted to make sure before buying it. the website said the following: http://i.imgur.com/QXL5Gay.jpg
> 
> My GPU:
> 
> MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 Gaming 4GB http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/346972/msi-geforce-gtx-760-4gb-gaming/specificaties/
> 
> My entire pc:
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ovswshsd6ik5Fs1--tjoUg_QxKkqMFsnBtpKcC80Dmc/edit#gid=0


Honestly man, your money is much better spent on a higher end GPU than trying to watercool a mid range one.

The G10 will fit on it, but the VRMs on your PCB are on the left side, when they should be on the right side, which means you will need to spend even more money on specialty cooling for the VRMs, it isn't a worthwhile purchase. If you have money to spend, I recommend selling the 760, get $150+ and buy something like an R9 280X / R9 290 or above.


----------



## 031Dutch

finally orderd the g10 and corsair h90. for my asus gtx 780 direct cuii

i hope to get it tommorow.

my idea is to paint also the g10 to a nice matt black.
and top cover also. with plasti dip paint. so i can remove if changing setup or something else.
also painted already the blue sli covers to nice matt black.

i hope soon to get more info about the temps, vrm temp, etc and picture`s offcourse


----------



## GlennVandendijk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Honestly man, your money is much better spent on a higher end GPU than trying to watercool a mid range one.
> 
> The G10 will fit on it, but the VRMs on your PCB are on the left side, when they should be on the right side, which means you will need to spend even more money on specialty cooling for the VRMs, it isn't a worthwhile purchase. If you have money to spend, I recommend selling the 760, get $150+ and buy something like an R9 280X / R9 290 or above.


If i sell it i can get 200 euro out of it at max. i think the ideal card for me would be a 970 i guess. i have no experience with radeon.
but what i am looking for is the most silent gpu i can find pretty much.


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlennVandendijk*
> 
> If i sell it i can get 200 euro out of it at max. i think the ideal card for me would be a 970 i guess. i have no experience with radeon.
> but what i am looking for is the most silent gpu i can find pretty much.


No promises, and dont quote me for truth. But from what i remember (looking at benchmarks when i was buying a new card) a 290x is cheaper/faster(or at least on par with) a 970, but will be slower than a 980.

Somebody else xan probably confirm or tell me im full of crap.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> finally orderd the g10 and corsair h90. for my asus gtx 780 direct cuii
> 
> i hope to get it tommorow.
> 
> my idea is to paint also the g10 to a nice matt black.
> and top cover also. with plasti dip paint. so i can remove if changing setup or something else.
> also painted already the blue sli covers to nice matt black.
> 
> i hope soon to get more info about the temps, vrm temp, etc and picture`s offcourse


I'm liking the Plasti-dip idea, I might try that myself as I have a bunch of plasti-dip around. Of course you can't see inside my case so it's not really required for me. I got the red version because the blue (which would match my components) is impossible to find and I still had to wait 1 month to get even the red one in! After I put it in I realised the white probably would have been better, lol. But again it's a closed case, it's not visible so not really a big deal. But I hadn't thought about changing the colour with dip until you mentioned it. Look forward to pics whenever you get it done!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlennVandendijk*
> 
> If i sell it i can get 200 euro out of it at max. i think the ideal card for me would be a 970 i guess. i have no experience with radeon.
> but what i am looking for is the most silent gpu i can find pretty much.


GTX 960 will be even less power and hopefully less noisy as a result (with a decent air cooler it should be). That's about the same performance as an AMD 280/285/280X (with about half the power consumption). Those cards are all a little bit better than your 760 but they're more of a sideways move if changing cards; if you wanted to do a decent step-up/upgrade from what you have, I'd agree, the 970 is your best bet.

I'm in a similar situation. On the one hand I can sell my 7950 (same as 280) and then move to a lower power/less heat/noise card like the 960, but that's going to cost me money overall (probably $100 even after the sale of the 7950) and would be a totally sideways move, performance-wise. And I have zero desire to spend >$400 on a 970 (what they cost here in Canada) as I think that's insane, so I'm definitely hanging on to my card for at least another year. I'm sure by the end of the year there should be faster & lower-power cards than mine in the $200 range. As for the cost of liquid cooling well I had purchased the CLC I used to cool my GPU last year and it was sitting around in a box for a while. That was before there even was a 960; at that time it was the most cost-effective solution.


----------



## GlennVandendijk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> I'm in a similar situation. On the one hand I can sell my 7950 (same as 280) and then move to a lower power/less heat/noise card like the 960, but that's going to cost me money overall (probably $100 even after the sale of the 7950) and would be a totally sideways move, performance-wise. And I have zero desire to spend >$400 on a 970 (what they cost here in Canada) as I think that's insane, so I'm definitely hanging on to my card for at least another year. I'm sure by the end of the year there should be faster & lower-power cards than mine in the $200 range. As for the cost of liquid cooling well I had purchased the CLC I used to cool my GPU last year and it was sitting around in a box for a while. That was before there even was a 960; at that time it was the most cost-effective solution.


Thank you that helped me a lot. i might just wait it out and use my card to the fullest. i mean performance wise it works fine for me







.
maby in the future when i buy a new GPU i will use a liquid cooler







.


----------



## Prometheus6987

Hello there I write again this post since I did not recieve any answer on the thread I created in cooling, I hope this time i'm in the right place.

lately I am having really high temps on my two gtx 670 pny in SLI, even if it's winter, and I decided to go for some AIO+braket solution, since custom liquid coolers atm are just too expensive for me

I have a few questions about the kraken g10:

1) Do I neet heatsinks for the Vrams, considering my cards have this layout?

http://programming4.us/image/072012/PNY%20%E2%80%93%20Nvidia%20GeForce%20GTX%20670%202GB_3.jpg

In case I need them, what is that huge heatsink for? Should I remove it?

2) Is this in your opinion a worthy upgrade with some future proof?

I'm asking this since I just can't find anywhere some performance tests between e.g. kraken g10+ a reference gtx 980 vs a modded 980 like the gigabyte gaming g1 or the Asus matrix.

Will they have the same OC capability and temperatures in SLI? or will the kraken perform better? (ofc considering I will mount heatsinks if I need them)

3) Recently some new corsair Aio coolers came out and I was wondering to attach 2 h80i gt (so the hoses and radiator will match the cpu one, which will be the h100i gtx), do you think they will fit in the kraken g10 or the k. g10 will fit just round pumps?

thanks


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prometheus6987*
> 
> Hello there I write again this post since I did not recieve any answer on the thread I created in cooling, I hope this time i'm in the right place.
> 
> lately I am having really high temps on my two gtx 670 pny in SLI, even if it's winter, and I decided to go for some AIO+braket solution, since custom liquid coolers atm are just too expensive for me
> 
> I have a few questions about the kraken g10:
> 
> 1) Do I neet heatsinks for the Vrams, considering my cards have this layout?
> 
> http://programming4.us/image/072012/PNY%20%E2%80%93%20Nvidia%20GeForce%20GTX%20670%202GB_3.jpg
> 
> In case I need them, what is that huge heatsink for? Should I remove it?
> 
> 2) Is this in your opinion a worthy upgrade with some future proof?
> 
> I'm asking this since I just can't find anywhere some performance tests between e.g. kraken g10+ a reference gtx 980 vs a modded 980 like the gigabyte gaming g1 or the Asus matrix.
> 
> Will they have the same OC capability and temperatures in SLI? or will the kraken perform better? (ofc considering I will mount heatsinks if I need them)
> 
> 3) Recently some new corsair Aio coolers came out and I was wondering to attach 2 h80i gt (so the hoses and radiator will match the cpu one, which will be the h100i gtx), do you think they will fit in the kraken g10 or the k. g10 will fit just round pumps?
> 
> thanks


Unfortunately man, I don't think the G10 will fit with your card. That massive heatsink is way too big to fit under the bracket, and it is on the less desirable side of the card.

I think you are much better off selling your 670s and buying a higher end single card.


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Unfortunately man, I don't think the G10 will fit with your card. That massive heatsink is way too big to fit under the bracket, and it is on the less desirable side of the card.
> 
> I think you are much better off selling your 670s and buying a higher end single card.


I think this was covered in an earlier post, i remember seeing this layout and heatsink. The g10 fits, but the stock fan location is useless. Have to get a pci slot adaptor tp hold a fan.

Although in sli i don't see the top card getting any airflow to that heatsink. Would need a case side panel fan


----------



## Prometheus6987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> I think this was covered in an earlier post, i remember seeing this layout and heatsink. The g10 fits, but the stock fan location is useless. Have to get a pci slot adaptor tp hold a fan.
> 
> Although in sli i don't see the top card getting any airflow to that heatsink. Would need a case side panel fan


What a shame, I just changed my case and the new one can't mount any fan on the side.

Btw as for air flow there should be some since removed the hdd cage in front of the cards and I have 3 120mm fans in the front of the case.

for the pci adaptor I'm not sure what it is


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prometheus6987*
> 
> What a shame, I just changed my case and the new one can't mount any fan on the side.
> 
> Btw as for air flow there should be some since removed the hdd cage in front of the cards and I have 3 120mm fans in the front of the case.
> 
> for the pci adaptor I'm not sure what it is


Its something like this


----------



## Prometheus6987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Unfortunately man, I don't think the G10 will fit with your card. That massive heatsink is way too big to fit under the bracket, and it is on the less desirable side of the card.
> 
> I think you are much better off selling your 670s and buying a higher end single card.


Unfortunally, for the benchmarks I saw, a single 980 nor 2 980 are a huge upgrade for me. I mean if I don't get at least a 80% increase in performance, I don't really see the point in upgrading; that's why I was thinking to go with an aio+braket solution, which cost for me 130€, where 100€ are for the AIO (which I will be able to use again with another bracket which is just 30€) otherwise I would have already bought a custom loop, but just the card plate here in Italy is 100€... so I would have to spend like 500€, at least, for just cooling my system with the perspective of loosing 200 € at the first upgrade T_T


----------



## Prometheus6987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nspire*
> 
> Its something like this


ah ok well I will think about it, thanks for your answer, in the meanwhile I will go look around for the post you were talking about before.

thanks


----------



## falcon26

So I go to put there g10 on my 980. And my luck the holes on the g10 were not drilled out properly and the supplied screws will not fit into the g10 bracket. My luck. So I either return it or exchange it. But at this point I will probably just return it....


----------



## c0nspire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prometheus6987*
> 
> ah ok well I will think about it, thanks for your answer, in the meanwhile I will go look around for the post you were talking about before.
> 
> thanks


http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2650#post_23426785
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> So I go to put there g10 on my 980. And my luck the holes on the g10 were not drilled out properly and the supplied screws will not fit into the g10 bracket. My luck. So I either return it or exchange it. But at this point I will probably just return it....


Ive read that sometimes when nxzt paints the backplate it goes on too thick and the screws dont go through the holes or they are very tight. You can run a 3/32 drill bit thru the holes to clear out any extra paint.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prometheus6987*
> 
> Hello there I write again this post since I did not recieve any answer on the thread I created in cooling, I hope this time i'm in the right place.
> 
> lately I am having really high temps on my two gtx 670 pny in SLI, even if it's winter, and I decided to go for some AIO+braket solution, since custom liquid coolers atm are just too expensive for me
> 
> I have a few questions about the kraken g10:
> 
> 1) Do I neet heatsinks for the Vrams, considering my cards have this layout?
> 
> http://programming4.us/image/072012/PNY%20%E2%80%93%20Nvidia%20GeForce%20GTX%20670%202GB_3.jpg
> 
> In case I need them, what is that huge heatsink for? Should I remove it?


The huge heatsink is cooling the VRM--do NOT remove it. A G10 bracket will fit the card fine I think because it "ends" before you even get near that area. However you will have to mount a fan up as noted to blow air over that sink, for adequate cooling of the FETs under there. However given the fan on the G10 will be essentially useless in this case, there might not even be a reason to get a G10 at all. You can rig up an Asetek (or even other WC block) without a G10 by using a different backplate or a modified CPU bracket in some cases. In some cases people have used zip ties to secure a block onto a GPU, believe it or not. So really I think you can put a CLC/AIO block on there but given the design of the card I think you should do it without bothering to buy a G10 at all. You can do a search here/on google for people using zip ties to accomplish this, for more info.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prometheus6987*
> 
> 3) Recently some new corsair Aio coolers came out and I was wondering to attach 2 h80i gt (so the hoses and radiator will match the cpu one, which will be the h100i gtx), do you think they will fit in the kraken g10 or the k. g10 will fit just round pumps?


H80i *GT* does have an Asetek block/pump but it also has an integrated mount on it, which does not use the Asetek "teeth" that surround the block. I'm not sure if that bracket is removable or not, if it isn't it will most likely interfere with the G10 bracket and you won't be able to mount it. On the other hand that mount may make it easier to use zip ties to mount the block, without a G10. (Note that the standard H80i is a CoolIt block and won't work with the G10 bracket at all.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> So I go to put there g10 on my 980. And my luck the holes on the g10 were not drilled out properly and the supplied screws will not fit into the g10 bracket. My luck. So I either return it or exchange it. But at this point I will probably just return it....


Unless it's really bad, no need to return/exchange it. As c0nspire said, it's just the paint. Mine was exactly the same. I worked the screw in and out of the one hole that was "overpainted" a few times and also used a screwdriver to pry it very slightly, and after that it was fine.


----------



## falcon26

OK did that with a drill bit. Now they are fine. Thanks for the help guys....


----------



## Prometheus6987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> H80i *GT* does have an Asetek block/pump but it also has an integrated mount on it, which does not use the Asetek "teeth" that surround the block. I'm not sure if that bracket is removable or not, if it isn't it will most likely interfere with the G10 bracket and you won't be able to mount it. On the other hand that mount may make it easier to use zip ties to mount the block, without a G10. (Note that the standard H80i is a CoolIt block and won't work with the G10 bracket at all.)


Well I don't think my current knowledge is enough to do something like that, but still it is very interesting since it would be really cheap solution and also imo more beautiful. I think I will need to do some research first to decide.









Edit: I did some research and I found out that there are nice options to mount the h80i gt to my gpu without using zip ties.

e.g. http://chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1928

I also did some testing with zip ties and my spare pci slot from the case and i found out that a 80mm fan will just fit perfectly. Only problem now is finding a right fan.

to be honest I wanted to use a fan like this one
http://www.amazon.it/Antec-TriCool-Ventola-LED-Blu/dp/B00066FH1U/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1423874431&sr=1-12&keywords=ventola+80mm

but i'm not sure neither of the voltages nor if I need a 4 pin fan or a 3 pin one :/

Edit2: I did further researches and I found out a guy with exactly the same card as I have, that mounted the kraken g10
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/kraken_g10/2.htm

The result imo is quite bad and the fan becomes as you said useless, that's why I decided to go with an h75+zipties, since there is a real good guide here on the forum.

for the fan I found out that I need just a normal 3 pin no PWM fan

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction guys


----------



## 031Dutch

i members now i have the g10 also on my gpu
with the corsair h90. i hope i can make picture`s to night.

first my old stock cooler temps on gpu and vrm



i run test on bf 4 setting with 2560x1080 resolution. and ultra setting. most people use 1920x1080 resolution. so i gona test this 2. only later

now the
gtx 780 with g10 and the corsair h90



the big diffrence is on the gpu its self so far. from 77 celcius with stock and with g10 on 61 celcius.
the vrm is no big diffrence.
i use the same stock speeds

the asus gtx 780 has a vrm black heat sink i used only that 1. no heatsinks on the other stuff
if you have questions free 2 ask


----------



## 031Dutch

for people wanna now asus gtx 780 the g10 with bf4 ultra settings

the temps are again lower about 10 celcius with lower resolution


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prometheus6987*
> 
> Edit: I did some research and I found out that there are nice options to mount the h80i gt to my gpu without using zip ties.
> 
> e.g. http://chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1928
> 
> I also did some testing with zip ties and my spare pci slot from the case and i found out that a 80mm fan will just fit perfectly. Only problem now is finding a right fan.


Note that the backplate you linked to there says it's for "H60/H80/H100", which are all Cool It blocks, with a slightly different design than Asetek. Still, given there is that bracket on the H80i GT this may work as well somehow (as this essentially makes it mount more like Cool It blocks), but not sure. You'd have to test it out and see I guess.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prometheus6987*
> 
> Edit2: I did further researches and I found out a guy with exactly the same card as I have, that mounted the kraken g10
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/kraken_g10/2.htm
> 
> The result imo is quite bad and the fan becomes as you said useless, that's why I decided to go with an h75+zipties, since there is a real good guide here on the forum.


Actually that result looks like where you'd probably be with a 120mm/27mm rad CLC, which is what he used (Kraken X31). To get better temps you'd have to use a better cooler (either 240mm, 120mm/38mm, or 140mm). He did mention he used another fan to pass airflow over the VRM heatsink, which seemed to work fine. He mentioned the fan on the G10 had the side effect of passing air over his ram on his board, but other than this small benefit you really don't need the G10 at all if you can mount the block another way.


----------



## Fantomau

i have some vrm heatsinks i dont need, brand new if anyone wants to buy'em. i bought them for the g10 but decided not to use the g10


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@031Dutch

Are you consistently above 60fps when you play BF4? Maybe try turning V-sync on so that you aren't using additional GPU horsepower if it isn't needed.


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @031Dutch
> 
> Are you consistently above 60fps when you play BF4? Maybe try turning V-sync on so that you aren't using additional GPU horsepower if it isn't needed.


yes i still use v.sync on and in my eyes i plays nice. i gona watch the fps also now. i keep you in touch


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @031Dutch
> 
> Are you consistently above 60fps when you play BF4? Maybe try turning V-sync on so that you aren't using additional GPU horsepower if it isn't needed.


i look a it. t about the temps with v sync on and of is the same
but when v sync is on its about 55 and 60.
off it is about 70 and 80 fps.

on a resolution off 1920x1080


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> I'm liking the Plasti-dip idea, I might try that myself as I have a bunch of plasti-dip around. Of course you can't see inside my case so it's not really required for me. I got the red version because the blue (which would match my components) is impossible to find and I still had to wait 1 month to get even the red one in! After I put it in I realised the white probably would have been better, lol. But again it's a closed case, it's not visible so not really a big deal. But I hadn't thought about changing the colour with dip until you mentioned it. Look forward to pics whenever you get it done!
> 
> picture with the nzxt g10 painted in plasti dip matt black
> 
> g10painted 5334k .JPG file


----------



## Fantomau

is the g10 worth it for a 970?


----------



## falcon26

OK got the G10 on. Now do I set the fan on the rad to intake or exhaust? I have it in the front of my case.....


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> OK got the G10 on. Now do I set the fan on the rad to intake or exhaust? I have it in the front of my case.....


i will say exhaust it. if it will be intake so the heat gona blow against your vrm and other stuff

i have it also since yesterday and exhaust it at the rear. in this many page`s
some 1`says the gpu create`s also lot off heat so. hot air will always go up.

so best is exhaust
rear or front or top.
not bottom because the air gona blow on the ground en go`s again up in your case.


----------



## falcon26

Does this sound good? G10 installed load temps 52 on bf4 2560x1440


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> picture with the nzxt g10 painted in plasti dip matt black
> 
> g10painted 5334k .JPG file


Nice, pretty cool looking!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> is the g10 worth it for a 970?


I thought you'd decided not to use it now?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> OK got the G10 on. Now do I set the fan on the rad to intake or exhaust? I have it in the front of my case.....


Most testimony I've seen says to intake air through a radiator whenever possible as it will pass cooler air through it, thus giving better performance. It does depend on the way you have flow set up in your case, but try to intake on rads and exhaust elsewhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Does this sound good? G10 installed load temps 52 on bf4 2560x1440


What videocard was this again, and what CLC are you using?


----------



## falcon26

Its a GTX 980. Case is a Fractal R5...


----------



## Prometheus6987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Note that the backplate you linked to there says it's for "H60/H80/H100", which are all Cool It blocks, with a slightly different design than Asetek. Still, given there is that bracket on the H80i GT this may work as well somehow (as this essentially makes it mount more like Cool It blocks), but not sure. You'd have to test it out and see I guess.
> Actually that result looks like where you'd probably be with a 120mm/27mm rad CLC, which is what he used (Kraken X31). To get better temps you'd have to use a better cooler (either 240mm, 120mm/38mm, or 140mm). He did mention he used another fan to pass airflow over the VRM heatsink, which seemed to work fine. He mentioned the fan on the G10 had the side effect of passing air over his ram on his board, but other than this small benefit you really don't need the G10 at all if you can mount the block another way.


yeah I totally agree, after seing his experience I decided to go with zip ties and the h75 which has the same layout as the astek one, it's cheaper and also after seeing the fan on the 670 completly out of range I don't see the point of buyng the kraken aswell. As for the backplate I saw that the shop is out of order for few weeks so that's another reason for go with zipties.

Btw for the "failed result" I was not referring to the temps which are fine but to the fact the kraken fan is out of range and cools the ram instead of the vram.

Last thing I also saw that the be quiet fan has a particular mount that will allow me to attach it easily to my pci case slot, so even that is sorted out


----------



## falcon26

My setup [img=http://s30.postimg.org/smd7nxku5/IMG_20150214_124320.jpg]


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> My setup [img=http://s30.postimg.org/smd7nxku5/IMG_20150214_124320.jpg]


Yeah I see you have a 120/27 CLC on the GPU. In that case low 50s may be about right. Is that fan intake or exhaust though? IMO I would try one of two things:

1. Make the GPU rad fan intake, the CPU rad fan exhaust.
OR
2. Make _both_ the GPU and CPU rads intake air. Then add one fan to the top there (the one location you can still install a fan) and have that exhaust. Warm air naturally rises, so the fan will aid/facilitate convection in moving air up and out of the case.

Alternatively you could:

3. Have the GPU rad as intake, then move the CPU rad to the top and have it as exhaust there

I think #2 above will still get you the best temps due to the "cool air over radiator" benefit. In any case I'd say that front rad (for the GPU) should definitely be intake.

You should still experiment, see which is better, but I'm pretty sure intake on rads is usually best.


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Yeah I see you have a 120/27 CLC on the GPU. In that case low 50s may be about right. Is that fan intake or exhaust though? IMO I would try one of two things:
> 
> 1. Make the GPU rad fan intake, the CPU rad fan exhaust.
> OR
> 2. Make _both_ the GPU and CPU rads intake air. Then add one fan to the top there (the one location you can still install a fan) and have that exhaust. Warm air naturally rises, so the fan will aid/facilitate convection in moving air up and out of the case.
> 
> Alternatively you could:
> 
> 3. Have the GPU rad as intake, then move the CPU rad to the top and have it as exhaust there
> 
> I think #2 above will still get you the best temps due to the "cool air over radiator" benefit. In any case I'd say that front rad (for the GPU) should definitely be intake.
> 
> You should still experiment, see which is better, but I'm pretty sure intake on rads is usually best.


If he is gona intake his front gpu. Its possible the heat take on the vrm. So the vrm is gona be littke bit higher.
And the vrm temps are here most talk about the day.


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> My setup [img=http://s30.postimg.org/smd7nxku5/IMG_20150214_124320.jpg]


http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black this is your case?

if so i would i will mount the gpu on rear and the cpu at top. En front intake air.
fresh air in heat always out. I tested with my cpu fans intake it even got hotter. Also effected my gpu witch stock cooler then


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> If he is gona intake his front gpu. Its possible the heat take on the vrm. So the vrm is gona be littke bit higher.
> And the vrm temps are here most talk about the day.


Case looks pretty large to me, and there's not much in there. I doubt intake vs. exhaust on that front rad will make much of a difference in VRM temperatures. But again, worth it to try both ways and see.


----------



## falcon26

I may just go back to stock cooling. In the end it only dropped my temps like 10 degrees. And I have to spend $120 for the H90 and G10 so I'm not sure if that's worth it. Also its a bit louder than the stock setup as well.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I may just go back to stock cooling. In the end it only dropped my temps like 10 degrees. And I have to spend $120 for the H90 and G10 so I'm not sure if that's worth it. Also its a bit louder than the stock setup as well.


You should try the different airflow directions, and you could try slower fan speeds as well (though this may result in slightly higher tems).

However this is sort of why CLC/AIO coolers aren't too useful in large cases with lots of room.

If I were to show you a picture of my case (Silverstone SG03) and everything I have jammed into it (you can nearly see nothing but wires on the "top" side when everything is in there), you'd see there's absolutely no way I could get the temps I'm getting (with a 120mm CLC on my CPU and a 240mm CLC on my GPU) with air cooling. There simply isn't the space for it and airflow in general is fairly limited in comparison. But when you have the opposite (like your case which is not only huge but it also looks _barren_ inside, lol) air cooling will probably do the job without concern.

Usually on GPUs CLCs are still useful (even in large cases) because GPU coolers are limited in size and it's not like you can mount a big tower HS to a GPU, like you can with a CPU. At least not practically. As you state, your GPU temp _is_ lower but given the GTX 980 is just over 150W, the amount of heat generated isn't that high anyway. In any event, where you have lots of room, lots of airflow, CLCs become less useful IMO. And you may end up in the situation asking yourself if the money spent is worth the benefit, which it seems you've come to.


----------



## mnemo_05

Count me in! Zotac 980 AMP! OC


----------



## just wondering

I have just bought a CoolerMaster nepton 140xl, I was going to use it on my cpu, but I am kinda hoping it will work with a g10, does anyone know if it is compatible? if not, is there any other solutions for using the 140xl on my 280x graphics card.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> I have just bought a CoolerMaster nepton 140xl, I was going to use it on my cpu, but I am kinda hoping it will work with a g10, does anyone know if it is compatible? if not, is there any other solutions for using the 140xl on my 280x graphics card.


Won't fit a G10, since a G10 is made for Asetek and similar pump / plate combos. The CM is an in-house design and is square shaped and will not fit the circle groove in the G10 made for Asetek based pump plate combos.

Your best bet is to use a universal block for your GPU, but that would mean you wouldn't be using an AIO to cool your GPU.


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus*
> 
> Won't fit a G10, since a G10 is made for Asetek and similar pump / plate combos. The CM is an in-house design and is square shaped and will not fit the circle groove in the G10 made for Asetek based pump plate combos.
> 
> Your best bet is to use a universal block for your GPU, but that would mean you wouldn't be using an AIO to cool your GPU.


Oh no that is a shame , i have been pondering , which offers the best bang for your buck gaming wise, water cooled card or water cooled CPU , but did not come across the G10 set up before hand !! That is a shame as the 140xl is a good cooler for the money , but i am unsure i would buy another cooler and a G10 , but would of been happy to of bought a G10 if it had fitted my cooler...

Thankfully though from reading through the thread , i can see the 290x ( considered as a upgrade for me) does not overclock so well and the G10 does not seem to help the 290x out in that respect other than keeping the card cooler.

So which is considered the best fit for the G10 to maximise with a good overclock and see the benefits of the extra cooling ?


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Oh no that is a shame , i have been pondering , which offers the best bang for your buck gaming wise, water cooled card or water cooled CPU , but did not come across the G10 set up before hand !! That is a shame as the 140xl is a good cooler for the money , but i am unsure i would buy another cooler and a G10 , but would of been happy to of bought a G10 if it had fitted my cooler...
> 
> Thankfully though from reading through the thread , i can see the 290x ( considered as a upgrade for me) does not overclock so well and the G10 does not seem to help the 290x out in that respect other than keeping the card cooler.
> 
> So which is considered the best fit for the G10 to maximise with a good overclock and see the benefits of the extra cooling ?


I would choose watercooling the GPU over the CPU since the GPU (if you're a gamer) is easier to cool than the CPU. An H50 can cool even my 780ti and a few 290X cards on this thread, while it takes more than an H50 to get better temps on your CPU.

To give you an idea, I have an H50 in push and pull for my 4790k and it hits 59*C doing regular stuff like watching videos, browsing, etc. When I stress test it, it hits mid 70s in temps (*C). My 780 Ti clocked to 1215 Mhz, only hits 59*C when stressed using Crysis 3, Heaven, etc.; and this is with an H50 in push only. Both CPU and GPU have the same settings in terms of fan speed and pump speed. This means that it is cheaper to cool a GPU than it would to cool a CPU (when talking about upgrading cooling solutions for either).


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> I have just bought a CoolerMaster nepton 140xl, I was going to use it on my cpu, but I am kinda hoping it will work with a g10, does anyone know if it is compatible? if not, is there any other solutions for using the 140xl on my 280x graphics card.


Though the Nepton 140XL won't work with a G10 bracket (as mentioned above), there may be other ways to mount it to a GPU anyway. The only thing is you won't have a fan to pass air over the VRM, so you'll have to setup a way to cool that on your own.

As for upgrading to a 290X... If you're planning on buying one you might want to look at a GTX 980 instead as it has just over _half_ the power draw of a 290X and, accordingly, less heat production. 290X is only worth it if you get a great deal and aren't going to mind the power draw and heat generation.


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Though the Nepton 140XL won't work with a G10 bracket (as mentioned above), there may be other ways to mount it to a GPU anyway. The only thing is you won't have a fan to pass air over the VRM, so you'll have to setup a way to cool that on your own.
> 
> As for upgrading to a 290X... If you're planning on buying one you might want to look at a GTX 980 instead as it has just over _half_ the power draw of a 290X and, accordingly, less heat production. 290X is only worth it if you get a great deal and aren't going to mind the power draw and heat generation.


hi , Thank you for your replies , in the UK i can buy a brand new 290x for £250 delivered but a 980x is much more expensive , a 970 in the UK is a similar price to the 290x.

The cheaper 970's tend to look as if they do not have such good cooling , so but based on using a g10 and perhaps a H55 Corsair ( is this suitable for the g10 ?) i presume that the cheapest 970 is the best way to go , due to a using a g10 , no point in buying a higher priced 970 if i would be removing the fan coolers ? is that the case ?

Also , as you can imagine , if i buy a brand new 970 , how easy is it to replace the original cooler , incase i need to send back for warranty ?!!?

I would hate to pay for a new card and lose my warranty almost instantly !!

My case has good air flow i am have a Fractal define r5 .

I have a new Sabretooth motherboard to fit also when my 140xl arrives in the next few days.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> hi , Thank you for your replies , in the UK i can buy a brand new 290x for £250 delivered but a 980x is much more expensive , a 970 in the UK is a similar price to the 290x.


Ah I see; consider though that you may decide to run the 980 on air (you can see a poster above mentioning he doesn't even think a G10 with a 120/27 rad is worth it on a 980) whereas the 290X is another story. So you could always look at it as GTX 980 air/stock vs. 290X + G10 + CLC cooler, when comparing prices.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> The cheaper 970's tend to look as if they do not have such good cooling , so but based on using a g10 and perhaps a H55 Corsair ( is this suitable for the g10 ?) i presume that the cheapest 970 is the best way to go , due to a using a g10 , no point in buying a higher priced 970 if i would be removing the fan coolers ? is that the case ?


That seems to be good reasoning though I would probably still buy from a good/reputable brand. Check reviews on the card, regardless.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Also , as you can imagine , if i buy a brand new 970 , how easy is it to replace the original cooler , incase i need to send back for warranty ?!!?
> 
> I would hate to pay for a new card and lose my warranty almost instantly !!


Removing the cooler is not hard on most cards, you just have to be careful. However warranty is another issue. Some brands allow you to remove the cooler, and some do not. Some even have different policies in different regions. For example XFX allows end users to remove stock coolers without harming their warranty in Canada/US. However the same does not apply elsewhere in the world.

So, if concerned with warranty, check with the manufacturer first in your region (or see if anyone has listed somewhere what brands allow cooler removal in the UK).


----------



## CaptainZombie

Has anyone placed the G10 on a EVGA 980 SC ACX 2.0 card? I'm wondering if you ran into any issues with the VRM plate and how are your temps? I was able to RMA my msi 970 so went the EVGA route.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Has anyone placed the G10 on a EVGA 980 SC ACX 2.0 card? I'm wondering if you ran into any issues with the VRM plate and how are your temps? I was able to RMA my msi 970 so went the EVGA route.


Good choice going with EVGA, they're the best.



Is this your PCB?

If it is, it looks like the VRM mid plate is not going to interfere with the mounting, so you won't need a shim. KEEP THE MID PLATE. Also, if you have an EVGA backplate, you can keep it if you thin down the foam pad on the G10's back bracket.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Good choice going with EVGA, they're the best.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this your PCB?
> 
> If it is, it looks like the VRM mid plate is not going to interfere with the mounting, so you won't need a shim. KEEP THE MID PLATE. Also, if you have an EVGA backplate, you can keep it if you thin down the foam pad on the G10's back bracket.


Thanks! I'm not sure since I didn't take the cooker off yet, the card just showed up. Hopefully this is it, a guy in one of the 980 threads posted a different pic so I wasn't sure. This is what he posted in the one thread.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Thanks! I'm not sure since I didn't take the cooker off yet, the card just showed up. Hopefully this is it, a guy in one of the 980 threads posted a different pic so I wasn't sure. This is what he posted in the one thread.


Thats a reference GTX980, not the same as yours.

I'm pretty sure the one I linked is yours. Worst case scenario if it isn't you will need a copper shim which costs $3. The biggest bummer is that shipping might take a week. Also, if you haven't already, I strongly recommend buying a VGA to PWM adapter.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Thats a reference GTX980, not the same as yours.
> 
> I'm pretty sure the one I linked is yours. Worst case scenario if it isn't you will need a copper shim which costs $3. The biggest bummer is that shipping might take a week. Also, if you haven't already, I strongly recommend buying a VGA to PWM adapter.


Ok, awesome thanks. Yeah, I have a VGA to PawM adapter, you helped me in this thread 2 months ago when I needed one for my msi 970 when I bought the G10. I returned the 970 for a full refund to get the 980.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Ok, awesome thanks. Yeah, I have a VGA to PawM adapter, you helped me in this thread 2 months ago when I needed one for my msi 970 when I bought the G10. I returned the 970 for a full refund to get the 980.


Noice!


----------



## Hasmir

Hey - i have some questions about the G10.

I really want one, to see if its better than the stock cooler on MSI 770 twin frozr (OC) - but first, let me list the questions;

1.

WIll the G10 fit my card? I have looked allover the internet and cant finde any site that says it can (only a person who tried it with a 4GB card). This is the GPU i have http://www.proshop.dk/mediacontent/24/10/2410127o.jpg

2.

Do i need any cooling for my vrm? I have 8 of these scraped from an old gpu: http://cdn.eteknix.com/wp-content/uploads/vb/1842-SAM_2139%20(Copy).jpg (the small once there is 8 of).. can i use them?

3.

If i need to cool the vrm´s do i need to attatch them with thermal tape or thermal compund?

4 (opt).

Will i see a huge imporvement comming from a stock cooler to h55 push/pull in front of an nzxt h440 case?

Sorry for the huge post - hope you can help me on my way to get one of these


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasmir*
> 
> Hey - i have some questions about the G10.
> 
> I really want one, to see if its better than the stock cooler on MSI 770 twin frozr (OC) - but first, let me list the questions;
> 
> 1. WIll the G10 fit my card? I have looked allover the internet and cant finde any site that says it can (only a person who tried it with a 4GB card). This is the GPU i have http://www.proshop.dk/mediacontent/24/10/2410127o.jpg
> 
> 2. Do i need any cooling for my vrm? I have 8 of these scraped from an old gpu: http://cdn.eteknix.com/wp-content/uploads/vb/1842-SAM_2139%20(Copy).jpg (the small once there is 8 of).. can i use them?
> 
> 3. If i need to cool the vrm´s do i need to attatch them with thermal tape or thermal compund?
> 
> 4 (opt). Will i see a huge imporvement comming from a stock cooler to h55 push/pull in front of an nzxt h440 case?
> 
> Sorry for the huge post - hope you can help me on my way to get one of these


1. If it fits the 4 GB card it will fit the 2 GB card, plus looking at the PCB (interweb pics - HERE) the G10 has enough clearance to fit it. It has the same die hieght, same die screw spacing and nothing protrudes high enough that clearance will be an issue.

2. Yes, VRM is always better cooled with a heatsink versus leaving it bare, mems are ok but since you have them it's better to install it. Yes those will fit.

3. Use thermal tape

4. My 780 Ti used to hit 74*C, now with the G10 installed the highest I've hit is 56*C. I'm sure you'll see a nice drop in temps.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus*
> 
> 1. If it fits the 4 GB card it will fit the 2 GB card, plus looking at the PCB (interweb pics - HERE) the G10 has enough clearance to fit it. It has the same die hieght, same die screw spacing and nothing protrudes high enough that clearance will be an issue.
> 
> 2. Yes, VRM is always better cooled with a heatsink versus leaving it bare, mems are ok but since you have them it's better to install it. Yes those will fit.
> 
> 3. Use thermal tape


To add to this, it seems like the stock VRM/RAM plate will still fit on the card with the G10/block attached (can't say for sure until he tries but looks like it anyway). So he may not really need the sinks or might consider attaching them to the plate instead.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasmir*
> 
> Hey - i have some questions about the G10.
> 
> I really want one, to see if its better than the stock cooler on MSI 770 twin frozr (OC) - but first, let me list the questions;
> 
> 1.
> 
> WIll the G10 fit my card? I have looked allover the internet and cant finde any site that says it can (only a person who tried it with a 4GB card). This is the GPU i have http://www.proshop.dk/mediacontent/24/10/2410127o.jpg
> 
> 2.
> 
> Do i need any cooling for my vrm? I have 8 of these scraped from an old gpu: http://cdn.eteknix.com/wp-content/uploads/vb/1842-SAM_2139%20(Copy).jpg (the small once there is 8 of).. can i use them?
> 
> 3.
> 
> If i need to cool the vrm´s do i need to attatch them with thermal tape or thermal compund?
> 
> 4 (opt).
> 
> Will i see a huge imporvement comming from a stock cooler to h55 push/pull in front of an nzxt h440 case?
> 
> Sorry for the huge post - hope you can help me on my way to get one of these


Yes, it will fit that card.

That card comes with a mid-plate that already passively cools the VRAM and VRMS. If you really want, you could attach those heatsinks on to that mid plate to further improve performance. You will need to use thermal tape to attach them. Not thermal compound.

You will see a nice improvement in temps, 20-30C, but you have to set the radiator's fans to exhaust. Is it possible for you to set it to rear exhaust?

You should also look into buying an additional 120mm fan, because it can further improve temps by ~4C, and you should buy a VGA to PWM adapter so you can control the 92mm fan with MSI Afterburner.


----------



## Hasmir

Ill get one soon and attach it to to card without adding any heatsinks - will update with results







Ty for the help!!!


----------



## Hasmir

btw - ill use it as intake since i have a h440 case







Plently of freshair getting in from the front


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasmir*
> 
> btw - ill use it as intake since i have a h440 case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plently of freshair getting in from the front


Thats not how you want the G10's radiator. Use it as rear exhaust. The radiator blasts out very hot air when it is used with the G10 on a GPU. For every other scenario, you usually want the radiators to be intaking air, but for the G10, you want it as exhaust. Try it as intake if you want, but if you notice high temps on the core and VRMs, switch it to exhaust. Lots of people on this very thread had complaints of high temperatures, all they had to do was switch it from intake to exhaust and it dropped temps by as much as 10C in some cases.

Not to mention, the H440 is notorious for poor airflow. You absolutely want your G10 radiator set to exhaust otherwise that hot air will stagnate.


----------



## DewEmDew

So I seem to have an issue. I have two kraken g10s in my rig on two 780 ti's one is an asus directcuii card and the other is an msi twin frozr. Both cards run around 50c under load in 4k bioshock infinite. The problem is around every 30 minutes to an hour the game crashes the monitor resets and the whole system reboots. From what I have read it seems to me a vrm overheat? The only problem is both cards have vrm heatsinks. Perhaps I should put the reference coolers back on? Also I don't think it's an overclock issue. The asus sits around 1280 MHz and the msi is around 1300-1360 MHz but I did out the voltage up I might dial it back and see what happens. I only put it up by 5% though.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewEmDew*
> 
> So I seem to have an issue. I have two kraken g10s in my rig on two 780 ti's one is an asus directcuii card and the other is an msi twin frozr. Both cards run around 50c under load in 4k bioshock infinite. The problem is around every 30 minutes to an hour the game crashes the monitor resets and the whole system reboots. From what I have read it seems to me a vrm overheat? The only problem is both cards have vrm heatsinks. Perhaps I should put the reference coolers back on? Also I don't think it's an overclock issue. The asus sits around 1280 MHz and the msi is around 1300-1360 MHz but I did out the voltage up I might dial it back and see what happens. I only put it up by 5% though.


It does seem to be the VRM heating, how much airflow do you have running over the VRMs? Are you just letting the stock fan do all the cooling? The first thing I did was swap out the stock fan from the G10 to a better one and it helped a lot. I also made sure that I had airflow blowing over the back of the card in my case to ensure that no stagnant air would get stuck in that area to help with cooling.

You have to remember the more you OC your card the more you stress your VRMs, those clocks you have are pretty high to be playing for hours unless you have the VRMs under water! Most 780Tis under those clocks are under water and have no issue.

Do you have an IR thermometer to check what temps your VRMs are hitting? If you don't have that, it's best to lower your GPU (around 1228 or +143) clocks and increase airflow over your VRMs. What voltage are you putting through both cards?


----------



## DewEmDew

Many thanks for the reply and currently I only have the stock fan cooling the vrm's I may have to swap back to the reference coolers since even under load they never got over 75. As for airflow two 140's in the front of the case a 120 hooked to a radiator pulling air through another rad at the top pulling air in with two fans 240mm and another 120mm rad at the bottom pulling air in. I'm most likely going to make the rad on the bottom blow air out since it's hooked to the other gpu.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewEmDew*
> 
> Many thanks for the reply and currently I only have the stock fan cooling the vrm's I may have to swap back to the reference coolers since even under load they never got over 75. As for airflow two 140's in the front of the case a 120 hooked to a radiator pulling air through another rad at the top pulling air in with two fans 240mm and another 120mm rad at the bottom pulling air in. I'm most likely going to make the rad on the bottom blow air out since it's hooked to the other gpu.


I think airflow is the issue why your G10 is not working at its optimum level. I would suggest you keep the 2 - 140 mm fans up front as intake but you need to set the rads as exhaust. You have enough airflow in the 2 - 140 mm fans to make sure you have positive air pressure inside your case anyway, so setting your rads in exhaust will ensure that no hot air stays inside your case.


----------



## DewEmDew

Well thank you very much for you help. I will try that within the next few days. I have work so I won't be able to do it immediately. If I have another issue I'll be sure to ask.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewEmDew*
> 
> Many thanks for the reply and currently I only have the stock fan cooling the vrm's I may have to swap back to the reference coolers since even under load they never got over 75. As for airflow two 140's in the front of the case a 120 hooked to a radiator pulling air through another rad at the top pulling air in with two fans 240mm and another 120mm rad at the bottom pulling air in. I'm most likely going to make the rad on the bottom blow air out since it's hooked to the other gpu.


This is likely your problem. If I'm understanding this correctly(a picture would help, along with what case you are using) you have your radiators set to intake? This is a big no-no for the G10. The heat that is coming out of those radiators is hot, you have it blowing directly into your case where it stagnates. You need to set both radiators to exhaust, and the temps inside your case will drop dramatically, especially if its two radiators set to intake. A simple switch from intake to exhaust on the radiators should solve your problem.


----------



## LastKnown30

This is my first post, but I am officially a member! It's attached to a XFX R9 290, which was busting 94c with stock cooler. I'm in the process of overclocking it right now. Already have it 100mhz over stock clock and just now hitting 60c. Couldn't be happier!


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewEmDew*
> 
> Many thanks for the reply and currently I only have the stock fan cooling the vrm's I may have to swap back to the reference coolers since even under load they never got over 75. As for airflow two 140's in the front of the case a 120 hooked to a radiator pulling air through another rad at the top pulling air in with two fans 240mm and another 120mm rad at the bottom pulling air in. I'm most likely going to make the rad on the bottom blow air out since it's hooked to the other gpu.


You can switch back to the stock cooler(s) to see if the problem goes away. However if you want to keep the G10s on there you should try to determine a few things. First off if you're able to monitor the VRM temps through Afterburner or GPU-Z you should see which of the cards (it could be just one or both) is overheating. Compare to VRM temp with the stock cooler in place. It's more likely the card that has the other card on it's cooler-side is getting less airflow over the VRM, but it could be either. If you can't monitor VRM temp then you will have to just go blindly...

You may have to do a few things in order to get VRM temps down with the G10 brackets...

Use a higher power (higher RPM/CFM) 92mm fan on the G10 that has the overheating card (or on both if they are both getting too hot).
Change case airflow to better suit the cards,as suggested already.
Add additional stick-on heatsinks to the _back_ of the card, this can be done provided it's a flat/smooth area on the other side of where the FETs are mounted.
If using a faster fan(s) works but gets noisy you may want to use a videocard fan adapter so you can plug the fan(s) into the cards' headers in order to control speed. That or use a spare fan header on the motherboard (if you have any) and control the speed from there. You need the fans to ramp up as soon as the GPU heats a little beyond idle. Also over-volting as you mentioned, will only increase VRM temps, so you may want to rein that in a bit.

Note that if your VRM isn't in the general vicinity of where the G10's fan sits, you may have to rig up another fan(s) somehow to pass air over the VRM-sink.

I had the same problem as this BTW, if you go a couple pages back in the thread--VRM overheat on my 7950. Though in my case I didn't get crashing just severe GPU throttling. I put a faster fan on the G10 bracket and it solved the problem for the most part, though now it's noisy. I'm waiting on a temperature-control fan to arrive and hopefully that will control it directly via the VRM temp and keep noise down when it's not under load.


----------



## wapeddell

I got a gtx 970 evga ssc and the capacitors and transitors are on the other side. Will this present a issue?


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wapeddell*
> 
> I got a gtx 970 evga ssc and the capacitors and transitors are on the other side. Will this present a issue?


It should be a non issue, you could even use the plate on the 1st pic. Though you should make sure your VRMs are cooled properly on the other side.


----------



## wapeddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus*
> 
> It should be a non issue, you could even use the plate on the 1st pic. Though you should make sure your VRMs are cooled properly on the other side.


You suggest i wait till i get some heat sinks or not overclock?


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wapeddell*
> 
> You suggest i wait till i get some heat sinks or not overclock?


As long as you run at stock you should be fine, Maxwell runs cool anyway.


----------



## wapeddell

Well I was able to get the g10 mounted to my EVGA Nvidia GTX 970 Super Superclocked card. Although, the temps are phenomenal one side of the card isn't properly cooled due to the weird manufacturing of this particular card.

Here's my card and temps .


----------



## Prometheus6987

What if you just detach the fan from the kraken and mount it to one of the free pci spot in the case with some zip ties underneath the card?
In this way you will able to cool the vram properly without spending more money


----------



## Azefore

Well I ordered a G10 and got it in today. Had my 1st gen H50 laying around in one of my parts boxes for ~4-5 years or so.

Decided to use it on my 780 until either an X31, H55, or H75 gets in stock on Amazon with their pricing and shipping (Seem to have inflated 3rd party sellers only atm) since I have ~$300 in giftcards and the H55 looks like the choice for $50.

Coming from an EKWB cooled 780, then to stock, and then to this I was impressed. I said to heck with VRM cooling personally and took around an hour to trim down the H50 to fit with the bracket. ~45 minutes of a heavily modded skyrim install netted me an avg of 36c for CPU and 41c for GPU.

Potato phone shot, didn't want to bring out my DSLR for it. Once a better cooler is in stock I'll work on cable management and getting my soundcard back up top:


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Well I ordered a G10 and got it in today. Had my 1st gen H50 laying around in one of my parts boxes for ~4-5 years or so.
> 
> Decided to use it on my 780 until either an X31, H55, or H75 gets in stock on Amazon with their pricing and shipping (Seem to have inflated 3rd party sellers only atm) since I have ~$300 in giftcards and the H55 looks like the choice for $50.
> 
> Coming from an EKWB cooled 780, then to stock, and then to this I was impressed. I said to heck with VRM cooling personally and took around an hour to trim down the H50 to fit with the bracket. ~45 minutes of a heavily modded skyrim install netted me an avg of 36c for CPU and 41c for GPU.
> 
> Potato phone shot, didn't want to bring out my DSLR for it. Once a better cooler is in stock I'll work on cable management and getting my soundcard back up top:


Nice results! Also, VRM temps aren't really a concern as long as you use the included 92mm fan, set it to 100% and don't exceed the stock BIOS limit of +62mV.

Truth be told, you can stick with the H50. Going with anything larger will give you a very small return on your investment. It is not worth it at all to buy a bigger radiator. If you want to improve performance, you should add a 2nd fan for push/pull, and buy some high end thermal compound if you haven't done those two things already.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Nice results! Also, VRM temps aren't really a concern as long as you use the included 92mm fan, set it to 100% and don't exceed the stock BIOS limit of +62mV.
> 
> Truth be told, you can stick with the H50. Going with anything larger will give you a very small return on your investment. It is not worth it at all to buy a bigger radiator. If you want to improve performance, you should add a 2nd fan for push/pull, and buy some high end thermal compound if you haven't done those two things already.


Thanks, and aye I read one of your previous posts regarding VRM cooling on a 780ti(? I think) and used that as a basis along with many others. Might have to see what the HG10 N780 from Corsair does since it looks like it might cool VRMs without needing 3rd party heatsinks (haven't looked into the 290 version yet to check this). I'm currently at stock voltage but I did do overvoltage on a skynet bios so I'm deciding whether I need that back yet or not.

I'd like to stick with the H50 but the pump assembly height is a bit too intrusive and the tubing isn't ideal in a few ways.

The H55 is the same 120mm size, I'm limited to 120mm in the rear as well. I don't want to stick a 140mm or 280mm in the front because cost/performance and heat intake. I'll be sticking with my noctua as a pull fan (may change to a phanteks) and the TIM is either phoyba or shinetsu (depending on what I get out of my toolbox first lol).

Thanks for the info


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Thanks, and aye I read one of your previous posts regarding VRM cooling on a 780ti(? I think) and used that as a basis along with many others. Might have to see what the HG10 N780 from Corsair does since it looks like it might cool VRMs without needing 3rd party heatsinks (haven't looked into the 290 version yet to check this). I'm currently at stock voltage but I did do overvoltage on a skynet bios so I'm deciding whether I need that back yet or not.
> 
> I'd like to stick with the H50 but the pump assembly height is a bit too intrusive and the tubing isn't ideal in a few ways.
> 
> The H55 is the same 120mm size, I'm limited to 120mm in the rear as well. I don't want to stick a 140mm or 280mm in the front because cost/performance and heat intake. I'll be sticking with my noctua as a pull fan (may change to a phanteks) and the TIM is either phoyba or shinetsu (depending on what I get out of my toolbox first lol).
> 
> Thanks for the info


The HG10 only does a 3C better job of cooling than the NZXT G10. The HG10 costs as much as $25 more depending what price you buy the G10 at because it can be had for as little as $10 on Tigerdirect. HG10 is only compatible with reference design cards, and specific to just one card. The G10 is compatible with a myriad of different cards, across brands. It has way more staying power than the HG10, which is not even a good upgrade on VRM temps, which aren't a concern to begin with.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The HG10 only does a 3C better job of cooling than the NZXT G10. The HG10 costs as much as $25 more depending what price you buy the G10 at because it can be had for as little as $10 on Tigerdirect. HG10 is only compatible with reference design cards, and specific to just one card. The G10 is compatible with a myriad of different cards, across brands. It has way more staying power than the HG10, which is not even a good upgrade on VRM temps, which aren't a concern to begin with.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm just proactively looking into it (not set in stone for me really) and the HG10 works on actually a lot of 7XX and Titan cards (compatibility list)

It's also nice because it's compatible with all the Hydro coolers as per their website. I'm not saying this is a bonus since the G10 is relatively friendly (with Asetek based etc) but for current and future AIOs to be compatible with their own branded bracket I think it's nice especially since I could re-purpose my old H100 and H50 natively.

The VRM is also just an added bonus. People still put heatsinks on regardless if it's a real concern or not, so having that built in is nice. Corsair's MSRP for the HG10 is $40 so only $10 more and probably less when it gets to Amazon (and other resellers).


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> I'm just proactively looking into it (not set in stone for me really) and the HG10 works on actually a lot of 7XX and Titan cards (compatibility list)
> 
> It's also nice because it's compatible with all the Hydro coolers as per their website. I'm not saying this is a bonus since the G10 is relatively friendly (with Asetek based etc) but for current and future AIOs to be compatible with their own branded bracket I think it's nice especially since I could re-purpose my old H100 and H50 natively.
> 
> The VRM is also just an added bonus. People still put heatsinks on regardless if it's a real concern or not, so having that built in is nice. Corsair's MSRP for the HG10 is $40 so only $10 more and probably less when it gets to Amazon (and other resellers).


It is still compatible with reference cards only. So if you own a non-reference card, you won't be able to use the HG10. Corsair AIOs are all Asetek. The G10 works with anything Asetek. There is no inherent advantage. As long as it is Asetek made, it will be compatible with the G10 as well as HG10.

The MSRP is only $10 more, but when the G10 is available for $10-$20 consistently on Tigerdirect and Newegg, that makes it even more appealing. The VRMs are only better by 3C, and they aren't an issue to begin with. You are overpaying for a card specific, reference specific, non-problem, *problem-fixing* bracket that cannot be used between AMD/Nvidia or between series of cards(7 or 900 series).

If VRMs are a concern, it costs less than $10 to buy a 20 pack of Aluminum heatsinks and Double Sided Sekisui Thermal Tape that has been proven to reduce VRM temperature by 10C.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> It is still compatible with reference cards only. So if you own a non-reference card, you won't be able to use the HG10. Corsair AIOs are all Asetek. The G10 works with anything Asetek. There is no inherent advantage. As long as it is Asetek made, it will be compatible with the G10 as well as HG10.
> 
> The MSRP is only $10 more, but when the G10 is available for $10-$20 consistently on Tigerdirect and Newegg, that makes it even more appealing. The VRMs are only better by 3C, and they aren't an issue to begin with. You are overpaying for a card specific, reference specific, non-problem, *problem-fixing* bracket that cannot be used between AMD/Nvidia or between series of cards(7 or 900 series).
> 
> If VRMs are a concern, it costs less than $10 to buy a 20 pack of Aluminum heatsinks and Double Sided Sekisui Thermal Tape that has been proven to reduce VRM temperature by 10C.


Reference board design perhaps but I still fail to see what you mean by "reference card only". Are you implying it will only work on just a handful of cards? On their list the HG10 is compatible with 43 different GTX 780 models alone, this does not include the 14 Titan Blacks, 16 Titans, 24 780tis, and 11 770s on their compatibility list as well. I'm aware it reuses the blower fan from the stock coolers but that's something you can replace independently like others change the G10 fan as well.

Not all Corsair Hydros are Asetek designed either, they have Cool-It based as well. Although the new H80i GT and H110i GTX are Asetek they still aren't compatible with the G10 because of the mounting variation, the HG10 however does support this.

As for VRM heatsinks I fail to see the appeal of thermal taped on heatsinks. That's just me, I like to value aesthetics a fair bit so I'd prefer it bare or something built in without looking out of place on the PCB.

I'm used to paying for waterblocks for my cards at $120-150 a piece (and those are usually 1 card only usually unless it's for a reference model so maybe 3-5 cards at best) so even $30-40 to just get a compatible bracket and carry over an AIO to whatever card is a good value to myself. It's just from my perspective, longevity wise sure I'd take the G10 and run with it but the HG10 can fill the niche roll if I say wanted to use an H80i on a card (regardless of the price/performance ratio it presents to a GPU).

There's pro/cons to both sides, I don't see the G10 as the end all be all especially with the mount specific design nor the HG10 with its board specific structure.


----------



## vegeto626

Just installed the G10 on my Gigabyte R9 290X reference card with a Zalman LQ320 AIO. I installed it with the Gelid 290X VRM heatsink kit as well as short copper heatsinks for each vram chip.

Stock HSF idle: 41C average
Stock HSF load: 94C max/91C average

G10 + LQ320 idle: 31C average
G10 + LQ320 load: 50C max/49C average

Above temps were tested with stock uber setting and Unigine Heaven Benchmark at 1920x1080 Ultra settings. I don't remember the VRM temps. CPU is running Cooler Master Seidon 240M also maxes at 50C. Very surpising to see both CPU and GPU temps being in the same ballpark









Edit: load temperatures were higher than they actually were


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegeto626*
> 
> Just installed the G10 on my Gigabyte R9 290X reference card with a Zalman LQ320 AIO. I installed it with the Gelid 290X VRM heatsink kit as well as short copper heatsinks for each vram chip.
> 
> Stock HSF idle: 41C average
> Stock HSF load: 94C max/91C average
> 
> G10 + LQ320 idle: 31C average
> G10 + LQ320 load: 52C max/50C average
> 
> Above temps were tested with stock uber setting and Unigine Heaven Benchmark at 1920x1080 Ultra settings. I don't remember the VRM temps. CPU is running Cooler Master Seidon 240M also maxes at 50C. Very surpising to see both CPU and GPU temps being in the same ballpark


Thats awesome man! Terrific results.


----------



## ubR322

ive searched this thread and came across only i believe 1 or 2 people who had the same gpu as me.

my question is will the g10 fit on my non reference pcb XFX 280x black edition?

i see a lot of msi and other brand 280x's pulling it off but xfx always does some funky stuff with their pcb and coolers, so i figured id ask


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubR322*
> 
> ive searched this thread and came across only i believe 1 or 2 people who had the same gpu as me.
> 
> my question is will the g10 fit on my non reference pcb XFX 280x black edition?
> 
> i see a lot of msi and other brand 280x's pulling it off but xfx always does some funky stuff with their pcb and coolers, so i figured id ask


Can you find a picture of the XFX 280X PCB please? Otherwise take a picture of yours and post it.


----------



## Dandeman31

Got My G10 Yesterday Need to clean up my pc before uploading pics i used a white g10 with an x41 on a gigabyte 760 2GB stable oc on core 1306


----------



## devolved

I got some thermal tape off ebay to attach heatsinks to my card,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190925361471?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I was wondering if anyone knew what this gravity stat is about = Specific Gravity: 2.85 g/cm3

I'm guessing it's to do with the amount of pressure it can take combined with heat before it deteriorates? or the amount of weight it can hold proficiently, with an apparent temp high point of 220c.


----------



## TheBoom

So I just got my G10 and installed it. Have to say it was a damn PITA trying to install it. They make it seem like it's straightforward and easy, but heck the screws don't even fit in the holes properly. I had to use my electric screwdriver to grind the holes so that the screws could fit. Bad QC I guess.

That being said, my card hasn't gone over 56c now. Thats on a custom bios with TDP increased. On the stock cooler I would get temps of 92c with this bios and overclock. Only thing now is I hope the VRMs don't fry anytime soon. I have a Zotac 970 vanilla ( half-sized card) and came up with a creative way of cooling the VRMs since they are on the other side instead of where the NZXT fan mount would be.

I used a multimeter thermo to measure the temp of the thermal pad I've attached to the back of the card and VRM temps were reaching 82c about 5-10 mins into a game. Definitely too hot to touch but it seems like its still below the maximum safe temp for VRMs? If this is true I'd be quite pleased with the G10 although it was so hard to install and get working.


----------



## ayazam

hello guys








i curently thinking buying a G10 bracket for my HIS 290, is it worth it? cause the loud noise from 75% fan speed @full load is too much







im planning running 290 with X40 and an A14 iPPC, do i need some mod to put X40 for the 290?

fyi, i now running 290-1050/1350 +0mv @75C (game) with custom fan speed in MSI AB

sorry for the bad english


----------



## markob53

Just a query, i have a single 780ti setup with the Kraken G10 in my NZXT H440 case exhausting out the back, what would be the best way to set up SLI & Kraken G10s in future? I've seen setups that have both cards mounted in the front of the case but when i tried that with a single rad as an intake it dumped lots of hot air into the case and when i tried it exhausting out the front the temps were too high, presumably down the the small vents restricting the air. So i'm a little confused how people have it set up whilst remaining cool?

Currently i get a max temp of between 58-60c on my GPU when maxing the load on my card, which i keep thinking is too much, is it? It's still better than stock but keep thinking it could be better.


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Just a query, i have a single 780ti setup with the Kraken G10 in my NZXT H440 case exhausting out the back, what would be the best way to set up SLI & Kraken G10s in future? I've seen setups that have both cards mounted in the front of the case but when i tried that with a single rad as an intake it dumped lots of hot air into the case and when i tried it exhausting out the front the temps were too high, presumably down the the small vents restricting the air. So i'm a little confused how people have it set up whilst remaining cool?
> 
> Currently i get a max temp of between 58-60c on my GPU when maxing the load on my card, which i keep thinking is too much, is it? It's still better than stock but keep thinking it could be better.


If you use the front mounts as exhaust airflow will be screwed up. For one, what intake will you use? If you use the top the fans on the G10 brackets are blowing in the opposite direction; if you used one slot in front for the exhaust rad and the other slots are intake fans, you'd be in trouble since the intakes will suck up the hot air anyway.

Also, what CPU cooler and intake fans are you using? When mounting it on the exhaust (I assume the rear exhaust, and then you might have a 240/280mm rad on the top), the stock intake fans might not be blowing enough fresh air in, and the hotter temps on the GPU could be because the CPU cooler is hogging that air. The problem with the air vents on the H440 is that the small holes are too restrictive, so you need a fan that doesn't just have a high CFM, but also a bit higher static pressure, and even with the case design that can also add a lot of noise.


----------



## Cauca

hello guys!
My very fisrt post! I always loved this site and never had much time, but now i have lol, so why not?. ok ok lets focus and go to the point.
I have a single setup on my system, a zotac gtx 760 AMP. The problem is, the pcb is shorter than the G10 itself!.
Im working on a solution on it, maybe with some acrylic bending, im not sure, i will post some pictures of the issue.

BTW, my G10 is working with my NZXT X40, at the bottom of my 700d, idle temps about 29~32c and 39~50c for games. Depends on how is the weather, since in Brazil we have some crazy changes along the day/year.

A little edit, the link to the VGA website:
ZOTAC GTX 760 AMP


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cauca*
> 
> hello guys!
> My very fisrt post! I always loved this site and never had much time, but now i have lol, so why not?. ok ok lets focus and go to the point.
> I have a single setup on my system, a zotac gtx 760 AMP. The problem is, the pcb is shorter than the G10 itself!.
> Im working on a solution on it, maybe with some acrylic bending, im not sure, i will post some pictures of the issue.
> 
> BTW, my G10 is working with my NZXT X40, at the bottom of my 700d, idle temps about 29~32c and 39~50c for games. Depends on how is the weather, since in Brazil we have some crazy changes along the day/year.
> 
> A little edit, the link to the VGA website:
> ZOTAC GTX 760 AMP


Have the same issue with you. My 970 Zotac card is half sized. As long as the die mount itself fits the cards mounting holes then you don't have to worry about the size.

What you DO need to worry about are your VRMs. The default fan mount on the G10 will do nothing for them.

I came up with a solution of using a pci fan bracket to mount the 90mm fan directly under the vrms.


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Just a query, i have a single 780ti setup with the Kraken G10 in my NZXT H440 case exhausting out the back, what would be the best way to set up SLI & Kraken G10s in future? I've seen setups that have both cards mounted in the front of the case but when i tried that with a single rad as an intake it dumped lots of hot air into the case and when i tried it exhausting out the front the temps were too high, presumably down the the small vents restricting the air. So i'm a little confused how people have it set up whilst remaining cool?
> 
> Currently i get a max temp of between 58-60c on my GPU when maxing the load on my card, which i keep thinking is too much, is it? It's still better than stock but keep thinking it could be better.


I've never really understood the worry of front mounted radiators bringing hot air into your case. As long as both your CPU and GPU are being watercooled, then I don't see why you would need to worry about the front intake fans dumping hot air into your case. The two most hot and important components are technically being cooled elsewhere. And other parts of your system like HDDs and motherboard are not going to fail just cause the air coming in is a little hotter then if you had your radiators somewhere else.

I've had a front mounted radiator for about 6 years and until very recently my GPU was still being aircooled. Even then I had no issues with the air coming into the case being too hot.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> I've never really understood the worry of front mounted radiators bringing hot air into your case. As long as both your CPU and GPU are being watercooled, then I don't see why you would need to worry about the front intake fans dumping hot air into your case. The two most hot and important components are technically being cooled elsewhere. And other parts of your system like HDDs and motherboard are not going to fail just cause the air coming in is a little hotter then if you had your radiators somewhere else.
> 
> I've had a front mounted radiator for about 6 years and until very recently my GPU was still being aircooled. Even then I had no issues with the air coming into the case being too hot.


Thing is, i originally had it mounted in the front in push/pull (if i didn't have it in push/pull the temps kept rising) and the temps were fine, about the same as i'm getting now, except my case felt really warm and i could actually smell the warm air in my case. Since moving it to the rear both of those things have improved.

But you see my predicament, the only way to go SLI is to mount in the front, giving me back my original problem. I do really like the H440 case but it's been the reason i've had so many cooling issues and still do 6 months on from my original build. I think i'm going to wait to go SLI on my next build many years down the line.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PM323*
> 
> If you use the front mounts as exhaust airflow will be screwed up. For one, what intake will you use? If you use the top the fans on the G10 brackets are blowing in the opposite direction; if you used one slot in front for the exhaust rad and the other slots are intake fans, you'd be in trouble since the intakes will suck up the hot air anyway.
> 
> Also, what CPU cooler and intake fans are you using? When mounting it on the exhaust (I assume the rear exhaust, and then you might have a 240/280mm rad on the top), the stock intake fans might not be blowing enough fresh air in, and the hotter temps on the GPU could be because the CPU cooler is hogging that air. The problem with the air vents on the H440 is that the small holes are too restrictive, so you need a fan that doesn't just have a high CFM, but also a bit higher static pressure, and even with the case design that can also add a lot of noise.


The CPU cooler is a H100i and my intake fans are noctua focused flow, i have the H55 rad on the 780ti mounted at the rear. I think this weekend i'm going to re-apply the thermal compound on both the CPU & GPU using Coolaboratory Liquid Pro which i've read is the best, hopefully this can shave some degrees off.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Marko, I'm sorry to say, but your biggest problem is the H440. You aren't going to get satisfactory temps unless you remove the front panel.

If you want to do SLI, you are going to have to mount both radiators as front exhaust, and remove the front panel. You will also need to switch up airflow so that everything else is intaking, while just the front is exhausting.

Be VERY VERY careful with Coolaboratory thermal paste. It is very hard to work with. It is almost like a liquid when first applied, so be super careful about not getting it anywhere except where you want it. If you haven't bought the Coolaboratory stuff yet, you should go with something that is easier to work with. Gelid GC Extreme, Noctua NT-H1, MX-4, IC Diamond, Prolimatch PK-3.

Not only is Coolaboratory hard to apply, it is very hard to remove. After the regular amount of cure time, it hardens up and becomes extremely hard to remove. If you are going to be moving components around and flipping airflow and such, I wouldn't go with the Coolaboratory stuff because it is incredibly hard to remove, and you are applying this directly on the GPU's Die. There is no IHS like on a CPU. I don't want you to have to struggle with removing the H55's waterblock if you are going to be moving things around.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@TheBoom

That is likely because your front mounted water cooling wasn't the G10. The G10 bracket is made to use an AIO smack dab on top of the GPU's Die. GPUs have a much higher TDP than CPUs, twice as much, sometimes more. This is twice as much heat that needs to be dissipated, and it is being done by a relatively small radiator. The air that comes out of the radiator is extremely hot. It will heat up the other components inside your chassis, especially the VRMs. On this thread alone, many people have solved their temperature problems just by switching from intake to exhaust with their G10s. For traditional watercooling, intaking radiators is fine, but not for the G10.


----------



## Azefore

58-60c for a 780ti sounds pretty spot on Markob53 depending on the ambient. Is it OCed and what settings do you have your front Noctuas at?

My 780 (1254/6100) with a H50 as a rear exhaust in push config (Phanteks XP 120mm, Shinetsu TIM) has hit 47c max in my H440 and idles between 19-21c. My front fans are 3 x Noctua NF-F12s at a constant 7v. They do a decent job of providing airflow and I have removed the grating attached to the front panel as I cannot see it at any angle the way I have my computer against the wall.

If you have not already removed the grating I'd advise you do so because of the nature of the H440. How are your drive cages? Do you have them occupied at all and/or removed?

If you're set on SLI with G10s then I'd personally put the next 120mm at the top of the front three 120mm mounting areas OR change the H100i to front intake using the bottom two mounting points with the top having a 120mm (hod podge mount it if needed) for additional airflow. Then you can have both AIO exhaust from the top or a combo of the top and rear (although it'd look pretty funky/ugly). Using the front as only exhaust is a possibility but probably the least wanted option to take.

Also a 780ti mixed with a H440 is going to give you a rough time anyway you put it since it's a pretty hungry card.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Corsair H55 available through NCIXUS for only $40


----------



## rycust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Corsair H55 available through NCIXUS for only $40


Wow I just bought two Corsair H55s for $49.99 each last week at Walmart.com, I could of saved like $15 damn, at least shipping was free haha.

Anyways I also bought two Blue Kraken G10s for $14.99 each on NZXT's website to go with the H55s, gonna install them on my R9 290s probably next week since I'm waiting for some VRM/VRAM heatsinks to arrive in the mail.


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Thing is, i originally had it mounted in the front in push/pull (if i didn't have it in push/pull the temps kept rising) and the temps were fine, about the same as i'm getting now, except my case felt really warm and i could actually smell the warm air in my case. Since moving it to the rear both of those things have improved.


Where do you live? Maybe the reason why the internal case temps are higher is because the ambient air is higher. Many people take only the Delta temps into account, because in cooler comparos that's what matters, but in practical use, if wherever you live the ambient air is hotter then you might have a problem. For example, let's say a cooler registers 35deg Delta under load as per reviews; but the ambient temp where that test took place is around 25deg, so the actual temp of the CPU is 60deg. Over here during May some days can register at 40deg and worse in the second storey if the house (most are concrete) doesn't have the right kind of insulation on the tin roof, then even if it registers a Delta rise of 35deg, then the overall temp is around 75. That's still not a problem for the CPU itself given the cooler performance, but the RAM and the mobo chipset can have a problem, and also an aircooled GPU (whose cooler has higher Delta temps than if an AIO was used on it).

BTW I must have missed it but did you try the CPU cooler in front and the GPU cooler in the rear exhaust? Run only the top two slots for the two rad push fans if they can reach over (I'm assuming you're not using the black, 2000rpm to 3000rpm "focused flow" F12 fans but the brown version or the P12). See if that makes an improvement in the temps on both the GPU and CPU, as well as the case itself, and don't use any of the fans on the top exhaust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> But you see my predicament, the only way to go SLI is to mount in the front, giving me back my original problem. I do really like the H440 case but it's been the reason i've had so many cooling issues and still do 6 months on from my original build. I think i'm going to wait to go SLI on my next build many years down the line.
> The CPU cooler is a H100i and my intake fans are noctua focused flow, i have the H55 rad on the 780ti mounted at the rear. I think this weekend i'm going to re-apply the thermal compound on both the CPU & GPU using Coolaboratory Liquid Pro which i've read is the best, hopefully this can shave some degrees off.


You know, if I'm going to go SLI with two top of the line graphics cards like the GTX 780, I'd much rather do a custom loop. You can use a 360mm rad (maybe a crossflow) in front with high static pressure+air flow push-pull fans depending on what you can run off PWM, plus a 240mm or 280mm on top with pull or pull fans on exhaust. The greater surface area of all those cooling fins but with the right rads also a less dense rad where air can push through with less restriction than on high density AIOs can cool two GTX 780s and your CPU a lot better and usually with less overall fan noise (the wrong pump of course might add its own noise).


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Marko, I'm sorry to say, but your biggest problem is the H440. You aren't going to get satisfactory temps unless you remove the front panel.
> 
> If you want to do SLI, you are going to have to mount both radiators as front exhaust, and remove the front panel. You will also need to switch up airflow so that everything else is intaking, while just the front is exhausting.
> 
> Be VERY VERY careful with Coolaboratory thermal paste. It is very hard to work with. It is almost like a liquid when first applied, so be super careful about not getting it anywhere except where you want it. If you haven't bought the Coolaboratory stuff yet, you should go with something that is easier to work with. Gelid GC Extreme, Noctua NT-H1, MX-4, IC Diamond, Prolimatch PK-3.
> 
> Not only is Coolaboratory hard to apply, it is very hard to remove. After the regular amount of cure time, it hardens up and becomes extremely hard to remove. If you are going to be moving components around and flipping airflow and such, I wouldn't go with the Coolaboratory stuff because it is incredibly hard to remove, and you are applying this directly on the GPU's Die. There is no IHS like on a CPU. I don't want you to have to struggle with removing the H55's waterblock if you are going to be moving things around.


Yeah i figured as much, it's a great case in almost all other aspects, i think SLI is going to wait until a do a new build and get a case that has better airflow.

I've heard that it's hard to apply/remove the coolaboratory paste, but watching the tuturial video it looked pretty simple to apply although i've heard it's hard to remove, i'm actually not planning to move anything around at this stage, i simply want to reapply paste and put everything back where it was, at the moment i'm using Akasa 455 but if there's a paste that is much better than that but safer than the coolabortatory i'd be happy to go with that, have a personal recommendation?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> 58-60c for a 780ti sounds pretty spot on Markob53 depending on the ambient. Is it OCed and what settings do you have your front Noctuas at?
> 
> My 780 (1254/6100) with a H50 as a rear exhaust in push config (Phanteks XP 120mm, Shinetsu TIM) has hit 47c max in my H440 and idles between 19-21c. My front fans are 3 x Noctua NF-F12s at a constant 7v. They do a decent job of providing airflow and I have removed the grating attached to the front panel as I cannot see it at any angle the way I have my computer against the wall.
> 
> If you have not already removed the grating I'd advise you do so because of the nature of the H440. How are your drive cages? Do you have them occupied at all and/or removed?
> 
> If you're set on SLI with G10s then I'd personally put the next 120mm at the top of the front three 120mm mounting areas OR change the H100i to front intake using the bottom two mounting points with the top having a 120mm (hod podge mount it if needed) for additional airflow. Then you can have both AIO exhaust from the top or a combo of the top and rear (although it'd look pretty funky/ugly). Using the front as only exhaust is a possibility but probably the least wanted option to take.
> 
> Also a 780ti mixed with a H440 is going to give you a rough time anyway you put it since it's a pretty hungry card.


It's not OC'd no, it's the MSI Twin Frozr edition which does come at higher stock clocks though, there is a Corsair SP140mm red led fan attached to the H55 rad in push configuration, mine also idles in the early 20's, maybe 25c if the computer has been on for a while. All my hard drive cages have been removed, all of the fans in the case run at a similar speed, all over 1000rpm. The fan on the H55 rad runs at about 1,300rpm, the noctuas at 1,100. I bought the case because it's a quiet case but the lack of airflow has forced me to have the fans louder than i'd like







although it's not too bad.

Would removing the caging at the front help quite a bit?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PM323*
> 
> Where do you live? Maybe the reason why the internal case temps are higher is because the ambient air is higher. Many people take only the Delta temps into account, because in cooler comparos that's what matters, but in practical use, if wherever you live the ambient air is hotter then you might have a problem. For example, let's say a cooler registers 35deg Delta under load as per reviews; but the ambient temp where that test took place is around 25deg, so the actual temp of the CPU is 60deg. Over here during May some days can register at 40deg and worse in the second storey if the house (most are concrete) doesn't have the right kind of insulation on the tin roof, then even if it registers a Delta rise of 35deg, then the overall temp is around 75. That's still not a problem for the CPU itself given the cooler performance, but the RAM and the mobo chipset can have a problem, and also an aircooled GPU (whose cooler has higher Delta temps than if an AIO was used on it).
> 
> BTW I must have missed it but did you try the CPU cooler in front and the GPU cooler in the rear exhaust? Run only the top two slots for the two rad push fans if they can reach over (I'm assuming you're not using the black, 2000rpm to 3000rpm "focused flow" F12 fans but the brown version or the P12). See if that makes an improvement in the temps on both the GPU and CPU, as well as the case itself, and don't use any of the fans on the top exhaust.
> You know, if I'm going to go SLI with two top of the line graphics cards like the GTX 780, I'd much rather do a custom loop. You can use a 360mm rad (maybe a crossflow) in front with high static pressure+air flow push-pull fans depending on what you can run off PWM, plus a 240mm or 280mm on top with pull or pull fans on exhaust. The greater surface area of all those cooling fins but with the right rads also a less dense rad where air can push through with less restriction than on high density AIOs can cool two GTX 780s and your CPU a lot better and usually with less overall fan noise (the wrong pump of course might add its own noise).


I live in the UK, so it's pretty cold atm but my room is a little starved for air sometimes, sure it's not hot but with every door/window closed there's not a lot of air getting into the room, also my computer is sat on a small computer table on wheels, like this



The shelf is removed as the tower doesn't fit otherwise so there is a plank of wood behind were the air vents out the computer from the H55, it's also in a pretty enclosed space round the side. I have it leaning forward a bit to give it as much space as possible but it seems like the air that exhausts out the case just stays in and around the desk, i'm moving soon and getting a proper desk so i'm hoping this will help.

The GPU cooler used to be in the front in push/pull, but the hot air just sat in the case and i could smell it, i moved it to the back in push and it's improved things, temps are about the same though. The CPU cooler has also been in the roof, i've tried it as both exhaust and intake with similar results.


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @TheBoom
> 
> That is likely because your front mounted water cooling wasn't the G10. The G10 bracket is made to use an AIO smack dab on top of the GPU's Die. GPUs have a much higher TDP than CPUs, twice as much, sometimes more. This is twice as much heat that needs to be dissipated, and it is being done by a relatively small radiator. The air that comes out of the radiator is extremely hot. It will heat up the other components inside your chassis, especially the VRMs. On this thread alone, many people have solved their temperature problems just by switching from intake to exhaust with their G10s. For traditional watercooling, intaking radiators is fine, but not for the G10.


Ahh I guess that makes sense. All that being said i've changed my case to the 760 T and now have the option of top and rear radiators in exhaust. Funny thing is though with the same exact setup I had the 970 at 28c on idle. Now its 35-36c on idle lowest.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> It's not OC'd no, it's the MSI Twin Frozr edition which does come at higher stock clocks though, there is a Corsair SP140mm red led fan attached to the H55 rad in push configuration, mine also idles in the early 20's, maybe 25c if the computer has been on for a while. All my hard drive cages have been removed, all of the fans in the case run at a similar speed, all over 1000rpm. The fan on the H55 rad runs at about 1,300rpm, the noctuas at 1,100. I bought the case because it's a quiet case but the lack of airflow has forced me to have the fans louder than i'd like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although it's not too bad.
> 
> Would removing the caging at the front help quite a bit?


I'd say it could help by a few degrees yah, it only takes 2 screws to remove it and you can put the screws back in their place once it's out and slip that metal grating under the tower itself till you need it again.

Might want to try re-seating the H55 as well if you can. I got one coming in tomorrow actually to replace my stripped down 1st gen H50 I currently use so I'll report here if I notice higher temps as well (will be going back if I do).

For thermal compounds I personally prefer Shinetsu or Prolimatech PK-3 for their price/performance. Both are usually in the top third of TIMs within 1-2c (based on whose round-up you look at). I've used Phoyba Hegrease a decent bit as well but not enough to prefer it yet compared to the others I've tried. All three though are easy to work with and don't have to worry about hardening.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> Ahh I guess that makes sense. All that being said i've changed my case to the 760 T and now have the option of top and rear radiators in exhaust. Funny thing is though with the same exact setup I had the 970 at 28c on idle. Now its 35-36c on idle lowest.


Your VRM temps are probably 10C or more lower, even though you cannot monitor them.


----------



## Ravagethorn

Hey All, I'm looking to get a G10 to cool my EVGA GTX 780 Dual FTW and after doing some research I basically see two ways to install the G10 and ensuring that the VRM and VRAM is cooled. The first way is to remove the unibody heatplate and use self adhesive heatsinks and the other way is to leave the unibody heatplate and use a copper shim along with some additional screws and washers to mount the cooler. What I haven't been able to find out is which way is better for ensuring everything is being cooled properly. Is one way better than the other? The shim method seems to be a bit more work but leaving that heatplate in place sounds like it would probably be the best for cooling, no?

BTW already bought a H55, now just waiting to get black G10 in stock at NCIX.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ravagethorn*
> 
> Hey All, I'm looking to get a G10 to cool my EVGA GTX 780 Dual FTW and after doing some research I basically see two ways to install the G10 and ensuring that the VRM and VRAM is cooled. The first way is to remove the unibody heatplate and use self adhesive heatsinks and the other way is to leave the unibody heatplate and use a copper shim along with some additional screws and washers to mount the cooler. What I haven't been able to find out is which way is better for ensuring everything is being cooled properly. Is one way better than the other? The shim method seems to be a bit more work but leaving that heatplate in place sounds like it would probably be the best for cooling, no?
> 
> BTW already bought a H55, now just waiting to get black G10 in stock at NCIX.


I did the G10 mod to my EVGA GTX 780 SC. I did the copper shim method. Buy a 20mm x 20mm x .8mm copper shim, not from FrozenCPU because they aren't up and running. You also need your own thermal paste, because you need to apply paste to both sides of the shim.

You dont need any additional screws or washers. The only thing you need to do is cut down the G10's foam piece on its back plate. Very simple. You are also able to keep a back plate if you have one.

Follow my link here to get very specific description on how to do it.

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/232654-kraken-g10-help/

Scroll down to post #4


----------



## Ravagethorn

Thanks for the info that will come in very handy.

Just a couple things though. I don't have backplate on my card so will I still need to shave down the foam on the G10's backplate? Also, I saw a video on the copper shim method and he used a 1mm thickness shim where you mention .8mm, not much of a difference so just wondering if the 1mm wouldn't be a bit on the safer side to ensure there is good contact. It's also where I got the idea that I needed new screws and washers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo

On another note, is the stock fan that comes with the G10 any good? I can't seem to find the air flow and noise stats for it and in most of the reviews I've seen people replacing it with a Noctua fan or something else.


----------



## Plzmane

Any case-recommendations for a G10 and Corsair H110 combo?


----------



## ALIENisGOD

price range?


----------



## Plzmane

Norway is pretty expensive, but I can go up to around $300, but I'd like something cheaper than a NZXT Switch 810.


----------



## thebaltar

Can anyone help me with my Kraken G10 + H75 + Windforce 290x?
First of all, this VGA are drive me crazy, with G10 + h75 + MX4, my temperatures are 71º on Valley after 30 minutes. In Iddle? 43º.
I have no Heatsink on VRM2, and on VRM1 i put some heatsinks using orginal thermalpad, but, without any fix, is just leaning.
The VRM1 reach 105º and i dont know what to do?
If i buy Gelid Heatsink kit i will solve my problem?
My case fan is CoolerMaster K550 the h75 radiador is on front of my case. My cpu cooler is a Thermalright True Black with 2 fan xtraflo, i have 120mm fan in the back and i have another 2 Cougar Vortex PWM in the front of 290x, this fans are running with 1400rpm all time.
I dont have a minimal idea that how i will some my temperatures problems, have been thinking in sell my card, but i really like amd cards.
What should i do?
With i remove the thermalpad and vrm heatsink will be better?
Can anyone help me?


----------



## blackraison

Sounds similar to my situation right now.
G10 + H90 + R9 290x Directcu ii

My VRM temps are fine, after running unigine valley for an hour the VRM temps were capped around 65ºC.

My GPU temps were essentially the same as the stock fan, around 72º after the hour of unigine valley.
I'm afraid the temps would've kept rising if I let it run for longer.
It might be because the stock H90 fan which apparently is garbage even though it sounds like a vacuum cleaner.

Probably pick up another PWM 140mm fan and redo the thermal paste, see if that will improve the temperatures.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ravagethorn*
> 
> Thanks for the info that will come in very handy.
> 
> Just a couple things though. I don't have backplate on my card so will I still need to shave down the foam on the G10's backplate? Also, I saw a video on the copper shim method and he used a 1mm thickness shim where you mention .8mm, not much of a difference so just wondering if the 1mm wouldn't be a bit on the safer side to ensure there is good contact. It's also where I got the idea that I needed new screws and washers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo
> 
> On another note, is the stock fan that comes with the G10 any good? I can't seem to find the air flow and noise stats for it and in most of the reviews I've seen people replacing it with a Noctua fan or something else.


Sorry for the late reply, was out of town this weekend.
Without a backplate, you probably don't have to shave down the foam pad. It should fit.
You could go with a 1mm shim if you want, but I found .8mm to be plenty. You can't go wrong with either. I don't think screws and washers will be necessary... if you do end up needing them, any local hardware store will have them locally, and it will be cheap.

The included G10 fan is great. Even at full speed, it is not audible above normal case noise, and it does a great job of keeping VRMs cool. If you really want a new 92mm fan, I recommend the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm, and buy a Blade Master 120mm for push/pull.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plzmane*
> 
> Any case-recommendations for a G10 and Corsair H110 combo?


Phanteks Enthoo Pro
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
Phanteks Enthoo Primo


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> Can anyone help me with my Kraken G10 + H75 + Windforce 290x?
> First of all, this VGA are drive me crazy, with G10 + h75 + MX4, my temperatures are 71º on Valley after 30 minutes. In Iddle? 43º.
> I have no Heatsink on VRM2, and on VRM1 i put some heatsinks using orginal thermalpad, but, without any fix, is just leaning.
> The VRM1 reach 105º and i dont know what to do?
> If i buy Gelid Heatsink kit i will solve my problem?
> My case fan is CoolerMaster K550 the h75 radiador is on front of my case. My cpu cooler is a Thermalright True Black with 2 fan xtraflo, i have 120mm fan in the back and i have another 2 Cougar Vortex PWM in the front of 290x, this fans are running with 1400rpm all time.
> I dont have a minimal idea that how i will some my temperatures problems, have been thinking in sell my card, but i really like amd cards.
> What should i do?
> With i remove the thermalpad and vrm heatsink will be better?
> Can anyone help me?


How fast is the 92mm fan spinning? It needs to be at full speed at all times. Same with your pump, it needs to be at full speed at all times.

Make sure that your radiator fan is set to exhaust. If it is intaking, it will be blowing hot air directly over your components. Set it to rear exhaust, and buy a 2nd fan for push/pull.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackraison*
> 
> Sounds similar to my situation right now.
> G10 + H90 + R9 290x Directcu ii
> 
> My VRM temps are fine, after running unigine valley for an hour the VRM temps were capped around 65ºC.
> 
> My GPU temps were essentially the same as the stock fan, around 72º after the hour of unigine valley.
> I'm afraid the temps would've kept rising if I let it run for longer.
> It might be because the stock H90 fan which apparently is garbage even though it sounds like a vacuum cleaner.
> 
> Probably pick up another PWM 140mm fan and redo the thermal paste, see if that will improve the temperatures.


Is the H90s pump running at full speed? Try plugging it directly into the PSU via molex adapter.

Definitely look into buying a 2nd fan for push/pull. Make sure it is set to exhaust.

Some high end thermal paste also helps. Some good TIM can reduce temps by a nice amount. Gelid GC Extreme, Prolimatech PK-3, MX4, Noctua NT-H1, IC Diamond.

You can also try and make sure that it is mounted tight enough. Not too tight, you don't want the card to be flexing or bowing at all.

What are ambient temps like?


----------



## Plzmane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo


Does it support 280mm rads in front, and does it reach the GPU with only 12 inches of tubing?


----------



## Infinite Jest

I just picked up some computer parts from Craiglist and got this bracket with a thermaltake 120mm cooler attached to a reference 780 (EVGA SC). Can anyone recommend some decent heat sinks that work, clearance-wise with this bracket and the 780?

EDIT: Found these guys earlier in the thread:

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19RWPW5P4VUJT

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19RWPW5P4VUJT

Should the clearance be fine on a EVGA 780 PCB?


----------



## blackraison

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Is the H90s pump running at full speed? Try plugging it directly into the PSU via molex adapter.
> 
> Definitely look into buying a 2nd fan for push/pull. Make sure it is set to exhaust.
> 
> Some high end thermal paste also helps. Some good TIM can reduce temps by a nice amount. Gelid GC Extreme, Prolimatech PK-3, MX4, Noctua NT-H1, IC Diamond.
> 
> You can also try and make sure that it is mounted tight enough. Not too tight, you don't want the card to be flexing or bowing at all.


Ambient temperatures are around 23ºC.
It turns out the sysfan connector on the mobo was only running 60% (1100rpm) at 100% it was at 1500rpm which is the max I believe. Haven't tested it yet, but thanks for the help.


----------



## thebaltar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Sorry for the late reply, was out of town this weekend.
> Without a backplate, you probably don't have to shave down the foam pad. It should fit.
> You could go with a 1mm shim if you want, but I found .8mm to be plenty. You can't go wrong with either. I don't think screws and washers will be necessary... if you do end up needing them, any local hardware store will have them locally, and it will be cheap.
> 
> The included G10 fan is great. Even at full speed, it is not audible above normal case noise, and it does a great job of keeping VRMs cool. If you really want a new 92mm fan, I recommend the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm, and buy a Blade Master 120mm for push/pull.


The 92mm fan is spinning at 1700rpm full time. And the radiator fan are running at 1500rpm.
I bought the Gelid 290x heatsinks, but i have to wait a long time to delivery in Brazil.
Make any sense replace the NZXT fan?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> The 92mm fan is spinning at 1700rpm full time. And the radiator fan are running at 1500rpm.
> I bought the Gelid 290x heatsinks, but i have to wait a long time to delivery in Brazil.
> Make any sense replace the NZXT fan?


I think the Gelid heatsink should be enough to drop temps below 100C. Ambient temps in Brazil are going to be your biggest issue. Its probably HOT in your room.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I just picked up some computer parts from Craiglist and got this bracket with a thermaltake 120mm cooler attached to a reference 780 (EVGA SC). Can anyone recommend some decent heat sinks that work, clearance-wise with this bracket and the 780?
> 
> EDIT: Found these guys earlier in the thread:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19RWPW5P4VUJT
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19RWPW5P4VUJT
> 
> Should the clearance be fine on a EVGA 780 PCB?


Both will fit just fine. I recommend going for the aluminum ones, because the copper tend to fall off. Also buy some Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape on ebay.


----------



## VSG

Phew my NZT G10 testing is finally done, all those 5 tests each time really added up time wise. Now I just need to take some final pics and begin writing. But yeah- definitely impressed by the bracket and the fan too, except if you have VRMs on the other side of the core as with the reference R9 290 I was using.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plzmane*
> 
> Does it support 280mm rads in front, and does it reach the GPU with only 12 inches of tubing?


I think it does support 280mm in the front, check out Bill Owens Phanteks Enthoo Pro/Luxe teardown, he will tell you for sure.

I just took a tape measure and did a rough estimation. It is close. You would have to go push/pull to even consider mounting in the front of this full tower case. You might want to just play it safe and buy an X31 or X41 for the longer tube length if you plan to mount in the front. Remember, G10 radiators must be set to exhaust.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Both will fit just fine. I recommend going for the aluminum ones, because the copper tend to fall off. Also buy some Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape on ebay.


Is this because of poor adhesive or weight? I wound up ordering both so I'll experiment a bit.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Is this because if poor adhesive or weight? I wound up ordering both so I'll experiment a bit.


Mainly weight of the copper. Please, do some testing! We love having info on the G10!


----------



## VSG

While I am writing up the review myself, may I say that Antec SpotCool thingy is fantastic for cards having VRMs on the left side of the core (like the reference AMD Hawaii cards)? It actually helped stabilize an overclock too for me since I was testing out in a hotbox where the airflow isn't necessarily as good as in a well thought out build.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> While I am writing up the review myself, may I say that Antec SpotCool thingy is fantastic for cards having VRMs on the left side of the core (like the reference AMD Hawaii cards)? It actually helped stabilize an overclock too for me since I was testing out in a hotbox where the airflow isn't necessarily as good as in a well thought out build.


Can't wait for your review! Awesome to hear that the Spot Cool helped, I just wish it didn't have such an overpowering LED on it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Can't wait for your review! Awesome to hear that the Spot Cool helped, I just wish it didn't have such an overpowering LED on it.


Some of my pics for the review need to be re-shot









Yeah that LED does get annoying at times, but you can cut off the LED power forever if you know what you are doing. Either way, G10 + cheap heatsink kit + SpotCool + any old Asetek AIO will have you set for life hopefully. No excuses for people not wanting to watercool GPUs now. I wish the installation wasn't dependent on those "teeth" but that's an Asetek issue rather than NZXT one.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> While I am writing up the review myself, may I say that Antec SpotCool thingy is fantastic for cards having VRMs on the left side of the core (like the reference AMD Hawaii cards)? It actually helped stabilize an overclock too for me since I was testing out in a hotbox where the airflow isn't necessarily as good as in a well thought out build.


Nice job, hope to be reading your review soon







AND pics


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Some of my pics for the review need to be re-shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah that LED does get annoying at times, but you can cut off the LED power forever if you know what you are doing. Either way, G10 + cheap heatsink kit + SpotCool + any old Asetek AIO will have you set for life hopefully. No excuses for people not wanting to watercool GPUs now. I wish the installation wasn't dependent on those "teeth" but that's an Asetek issue rather than NZXT one.


Yea, the performance to be had with a G10 bracket, 120mm AIO, and optional extras, all for under $100, depending how many extras you buy is incredible. And its universal unlike the HG10 which is card, reference design(not PCB) and generation specific.

It is legitimately under $200/Euro/Pounds to get an AIO for both CPU and GPU to be rocking some really impressive temperatures.


----------



## VSG

I don't really consider the G10 and HG10 to be competitors. They complement each other just like universal GPU blocks and full cover GPU blocks. Given the choice (Assuming both were available for the GPU PCB I have), I would very likely go with the HG10 because it is a more elegant and complete design by itself. But while waiting for Corsair to make a HG10, use the G10 in the meantime and see if that works well enough to not switch.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't really consider the G10 and HG10 to be competitors. They complement each other just like universal GPU blocks and full cover GPU blocks. Given the choice (Assuming both were available for the GPU PCB I have), I would very likely go with the HG10 because it is a more elegant and complete design by itself. But while waiting for Corsair to make a HG10, use the G10 in the meantime and see if that works well enough to not switch.


Yea, design wise, the HG10 does look better, and is more complete, but performance wise, they are almost identical, with the HG10 only doing 3C better on VRM temps on a reference R9 290. The issue I have with HG10 is that it is card specific, and reference card specific, not reference PCB, you have to have a reference card because it requires the blower style fan.

I like the G10 more because it is way more universal, and usable for future GPUs. Like you said, the G10 + H55 might be the last GPU cooler you ever need if cards continue to use the same PCB design. Kind of assuming that it will be compatible with future GPUs, but given its track record of compatibility, I would say it will continue to be compatible with new GPUs. I think the G10 offers more functionality and freedom, not to mention, can be had for as little as $10-$15 compared to the $35 price tag of the HG10. If you want to add heatsinks to your card, it is still less expensive than buying an HG10, provided you get the G10 while it is on sale.

To each their own, and I am bias because I do own the G10, I just don't see the HG10 as a good value when the G10 offers much more functionality.


----------



## cravinmild

I like that there are retail versions to using an AIO for gpu cooling, few years back this was a much less known method for gpu cooling. Myself I would lean towards the HG10 as it does address vram/vrm cooling where as the H10 requires additional purchases to complete the job. That said, my money will go to the company which does this mod without needing any fan at all to cool the card and relies on the cooling potential of the aio unit for full card cooling. Its still a young mod, perhaps a few years from now we can hope to see this method used.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi




----------



## VSG

VRM temps were definitely a lot more than 3 ºC better with the HG10 in my case, and there are two sets of VRMs on that card. Did they average it out? I'll look it up.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> VRM temps were definitely a lot more than 3 ºC better with the HG10 in my case, and there are two sets of VRMs on that card. Did they average it out? I'll look it up.


Yea, please look into that, I will take your review over anyone elses, so if it much more than 3C, then I retract what I said


----------



## rycust

Hey guys so all the parts I ordered have arrived (Kraken G10s, H55s, Heatsinks...) I'm planning to install them soon so I was wondering, is the installation hard, or is it simple? Oh and I'm installing them on reference 290s.



Spoiler: Pics


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rycust*
> 
> Hey guys so all the parts I ordered have arrived (Kraken G10s, H55s, Heatsinks...) I'm planning to install them soon so I was wondering, is the installation hard, or is it simple? Oh and I'm installing them on reference 290s.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics


The first time is hard. Getting the teeth on the AIO to line up with the bracket, all while mounting it to those 4 pegs. Yea, the first time is rough. Having someone to help you will make your life easier, but it is doable solo, might take a little bit of time though.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rycust*
> 
> Hey guys so all the parts I ordered have arrived (Kraken G10s, H55s, Heatsinks...) I'm planning to install them soon so I was wondering, is the installation hard, or is it simple? Oh and I'm installing them on reference 290s.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics


I just swapped out my old H50 for a new H55 yesterday and the second install went down in ~4 minutes after my GPU was clean.

I held one component in each hand and sandwiched them together, then I could put my thumb on the top of the H55 unit and my fingers of the same hand on the back of the NZXT square on the oppisite side and hand tighten the thumb screws with my free hand.

With a compatible cooler it was very easy, my H50 wasn't supported and the teeth never went into the slots so I had to get it just right to have it pressure mounted and the screws are harder to get through the bracket when something that's going on as well.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> VRM temps were definitely a lot more than 3 ºC better with the HG10 in my case, and there are two sets of VRMs on that card. Did they average it out? I'll look it up.


Rereading the review, they are comparing VRM2 temperatures, so its not the full picture.


----------



## Ravagethorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Sorry for the late reply, was out of town this weekend.
> Without a backplate, you probably don't have to shave down the foam pad. It should fit.
> You could go with a 1mm shim if you want, but I found .8mm to be plenty. You can't go wrong with either. I don't think screws and washers will be necessary... if you do end up needing them, any local hardware store will have them locally, and it will be cheap.
> 
> The included G10 fan is great. Even at full speed, it is not audible above normal case noise, and it does a great job of keeping VRMs cool. If you really want a new 92mm fan, I recommend the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm, and buy a Blade Master 120mm for push/pull.


Thanks again for the info. I'll probably stick with stock fan on the G10 and for the 120mm I have a Be Quiet! Silent WIngs 2 that currently in the radiators going in so I figured I'd use that. I've ordered the parts. Might take a while to get them but I'll post back when everything is installed and can officially be a member of the G10 club.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Got this G10 installed with the copper heatsinks on the VRAM and aluminum ones on the VRM, using a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer (seemingly the lower end of the AIO spectrum) on an EVGA 780 SC (bracket, card, and cooler from craigslist. After some internal beliberation, I decided to try out the below config (also a fan on the top, which isn't visible), as a top mount is out of the question and a rear mount requires someugly tubing yoga, uglier than my setup already is







. Theoretically, it isn't ideal as there are 3 fans drawing air from the same area (CPU heatsink, rad, and PSU), and this has panned out in results. Running Heaven bench at full speed on the fan with stock freq for SC, I was maxing at 56C after an hour. I'm going to mount it on the rear and use the bottom as intake (as I had with my previous GPU), but I'm wondering if the CPU is going to heat up the air too much before it enters the rad. But man, this thing puts out some heat!

Also, is it possible to monitor the VRAM/VRM temps with software?

Apologies for the pic quality, quick snap with iPad.



Edit: temps not much different with rear mount. I have a feeling the rad is a bit too small for this application. I'll do some more experimenting.


----------



## ldewitt

Been awhile since I posted, my kraken g10 has been serving me well, minor over clock on my gtx 770 but the adhesive tape I used on the copper heatsinks have failed at least on the VRMS side of the board the vrams are holding fine but the small area that the VRMS are it just isn't sticking. However it seems to hold up and I don't have issues with it while gaming on bf4. Figured I'd give an update on how my kraken is going. Haven't had issues yet other than the heatsinks not sticking on the VRMS.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Unfortunately there is no software for monitoring VRM temps on the EVGA GTX 780 SC. I use a Sentry3 Fan Controller with a temp probe to monitor VRM temps


----------



## jonnyyyl

Hi all,
I was wondering if the G10 takes newer AIOs such as the CM Nepton 120/240 or the Antec Kuhlers 650/950? Thanks guys


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Got this G10 installed with the copper heatsinks on the VRAM and aluminum ones on the VRM, using a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer (seemingly the lower end of the AIO spectrum) on an EVGA 780 SC (bracket, card, and cooler from craigslist. After some internal beliberation, I decided to try out the below config (also a fan on the top, which isn't visible), as a top mount is out of the question and a rear mount requires someugly tubing yoga, uglier than my setup already is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Theoretically, it isn't ideal as there are 3 fans drawing air from the same area (CPU heatsink, rad, and PSU), and this has panned out in results. Running Heaven bench at full speed on the fan with stock freq for SC, I was maxing at 56C after an hour. I'm going to mount it on the rear and use the bottom as intake (as I had with my previous GPU), but I'm wondering if the CPU is going to heat up the air too much before it enters the rad. But man, this thing puts out some heat!
> 
> Also, is it possible to monitor the VRAM/VRM temps with software?
> 
> Apologies for the pic quality, quick snap with iPad.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: temps not much different with rear mount. I have a feeling the rad is a bit too small for this application. I'll do some more experimenting.


It looks like my 780 is boosting itself over the 1050Mhz mark (I just assumed these were stock clocks, but not so apparently), so maybe these temps aren't horrendous. Regardless, does anyone use a water 2.0 performer with a gtx 780 so that I can get some frame of reference temp-wise?


----------



## ldewitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnyyyl*
> 
> Hi all,
> I was wondering if the G10 takes newer AIOs such as the CM Nepton 120/240 or the Antec Kuhlers 650/950? Thanks guys


I know for a fact the CM Nepton's both wont work. And from the looks of the antec 950 it doesn't have teeth to grip in the kraken g10, the 650 looks like it has teeth but doesn't look to match up with the ASUSTEK Style teeth.

Unfortunately none of those look to work for the kraken g10.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> It looks like my 780 is boosting itself over the 1050Mhz mark (I just assumed these were stock clocks, but not so apparently), so maybe these temps aren't horrendous. Regardless, does anyone use a water 2.0 performer with a gtx 780 so that I can get some frame of reference temp-wise?


Your temps are perfectly fine. That model of 780 is a factory overclocked card, so it comes with around 1050/1070 out of the box. You could try downloading MSI afterburner and overclocking it some more if you want. Maybe see how far it will go on stock voltage. My 780SC does +100Mhz Core, +250Mhz Memory without touching voltage at all. Everyone has different results, but maybe you will get lucky.

Your temps are great though. I don't have a Water 2.0 Performer, but I have a similar AIO. I use an X31 with two fans in push/pull. I notice that you only have one fan though, is in push or pull? It looks like it is in pull, but can't be sure. If at all possible, you want it exhausting hot air out of your chassis, but that doesn't look like it is possible given your form factor. No matter, your temps are right in line with what you should expect given your case, fan orientation, and radiator size.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Your temps are perfectly fine. That model of 780 is a factory overclocked card, so it comes with around 1050/1070 out of the box. You could try downloading MSI afterburner and overclocking it some more if you want. Maybe see how far it will go on stock voltage. My 780SC does +100Mhz Core, +250Mhz Memory without touching voltage at all. Everyone has different results, but maybe you will get lucky.
> 
> Your temps are great though. I don't have a Water 2.0 Performer, but I have a similar AIO. I use an X31 with two fans in push/pull. I notice that you only have one fan though, is in push or pull? It looks like it is in pull, but can't be sure. If at all possible, you want it exhausting hot air out of your chassis, but that doesn't look like it is possible given your form factor. No matter, your temps are right in line with what you should expect given your case, fan orientation, and radiator size.


Ahh, thanks for the info. It's in push (exhausting, that air coming out is wayyyy too hot for my little case) and my CPU temps seem fine for gaming in that orientation so I may just put it back to the pictured orientation. The guy didn't give me the second set of mounting screws from the radiator fan, so I'd have to zip-tie a second one on (the radiator is actually zip-tied to the case at the moment), but I may just try mounting a second fan outside the case and see if that changes anything.


----------



## thebaltar

Whats the average temps of 290x with g10 and Corsair H75 two fans sp120?
At minimal speed with the case closed, my card reach 74º on Far Cry 4.
At maximum speed and with case open, the card reach 63º.
Idle temps are 43º, and i'm using MX4 thermal paste.
Thats normal or i'm doing something wrong?
The SP120 fans is better than Cougar Vortex Pwm for the radiator h75?

I just dont know what to do anymore.
Please, Help!


----------



## PM323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> Whats the average temps of 290x with g10 and Corsair H75 two fans sp120?
> At minimal speed with the case closed, my card reach 74º on Far Cry 4.
> At maximum speed and with case open, the card reach 63º.
> Idle temps are 43º, and i'm using MX4 thermal paste.
> Thats normal or i'm doing something wrong?
> The SP120 fans is better than Cougar Vortex Pwm for the radiator h75?
> 
> I just dont know what to do anymore.
> Please, Help!


What are the idle and load temps on the stock cooler? Does it throttle? Given the high TDP of the 290X that's probably the best that the H75 can do with it. Even the GTX 680 and 780 tend to run at markedly higher temps than other GPUs with most 120/140 AIOs.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PM323*
> 
> What are the idle and load temps on the stock cooler? Does it throttle? Given the high TDP of the 290X that's probably the best that the H75 can do with it. Even the GTX 680 and 780 tend to run at markedly higher temps than other GPUs with most 120/140 AIOs.


Yeah, I can't help but think this whole idea would work much better with the 970/980 series cards. At the moment, I'm matching stock load temp (1C cooler with my puny rad) of the reference cooler (re-pasted running flat out at 100% speed) on a 780, but idles about 10C cooler.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> Whats the average temps of 290x with g10 and Corsair H75 two fans sp120?
> At minimal speed with the case closed, my card reach 74º on Far Cry 4.
> At maximum speed and with case open, the card reach 63º.
> Idle temps are 43º, and i'm using MX4 thermal paste.
> Thats normal or i'm doing something wrong?
> The SP120 fans is better than Cougar Vortex Pwm for the radiator h75?
> 
> I just dont know what to do anymore.
> Please, Help!


these numbers seem high - my 290 (non-X) idles never over 32C with fans at 40%, and maxes at 71C with 40% fan speed on a thermaltake water 3.0 performer (exactly the same rad with an inferior pump) so i would expect that you can manage superior temps to mine. i can suggest reseating, ensuring that you have tightened the thumbscrews enough and ensure the thermal paste is good/well spread. took me 3 reseats to get it right.

your fans are good, i doubt they arent cutting the mustard. are you using your pump at 100% all the time? a good measure is to use a molex plug so its stuck to 100%.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> Whats the average temps of 290x with g10 and Corsair H75 two fans sp120?
> At minimal speed with the case closed, my card reach 74º on Far Cry 4.
> At maximum speed and with case open, the card reach 63º.
> Idle temps are 43º, and i'm using MX4 thermal paste.
> Thats normal or i'm doing something wrong?
> The SP120 fans is better than Cougar Vortex Pwm for the radiator h75?
> 
> I just dont know what to do anymore.
> Please, Help!


What case are you using? What is ambient temp?
Those temps are high. Try tightening the screws a little more, but not so much that it bends the card.


----------



## LastKnown30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> Whats the average temps of 290x with g10 and Corsair H75 two fans sp120?
> At minimal speed with the case closed, my card reach 74º on Far Cry 4.
> At maximum speed and with case open, the card reach 63º.
> Idle temps are 43º, and i'm using MX4 thermal paste.
> Thats normal or i'm doing something wrong?
> The SP120 fans is better than Cougar Vortex Pwm for the radiator h75?
> 
> I just dont know what to do anymore.
> Please, Help!


I was having the same problem after I first installed mine onto a R9 290. I just tightened the screws until I couldn't safely do it anymore and now I'm running 34 degrees idle & never get above 54 while playing games like Dying Light & The Witcher 2.


----------



## thebaltar

I did another tests here.
My case is the Coolermaster K550, and i think that he is the problem.
I change the two sp120 radiators fan to Cougar Vortex PWM, then i put one sp120 in the front of vrm1. With my case open, the temps in valley are 61º on die, and vrm1 79º at 1100/1450 no voltage add.
When i close the case, the temps on dia reach 71º and vrm 100º in valley Bench.

My case have on inferior front one 120 fan running at 1000 rpm intake, and radiator in the middle of the front taking the air out.
In the back, i have one xtraflo 120 at 1400rpm.
Room temps is around 25º.

Should i buy a new case?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> I did another tests here.
> My case is the Coolermaster K550, and i think that he is the problem.
> I change the two sp120 radiators fan to Cougar Vortex PWM, then i put one sp120 in the front of vrm1. With my case open, the temps in valley are 61º on die, and vrm1 79º at 1100/1450 no voltage add.
> When i close the case, the temps on dia reach 71º and vrm 100º in valley Bench.
> 
> My case have on inferior front one 120 fan running at 1000 rpm intake, and radiator in the middle of the front taking the air out.
> In the back, i have one xtraflo 120 at 1400rpm.
> Room temps is around 25º.
> 
> Should i buy a new case?


Did you try tightening the screws like we recommended?

Can you take a picture of your case and in paint, draw over the fans showing the airflow direction please?


----------



## ALIENisGOD

so i've had my Kraken x41 for 3 months now on my 680 and temps are great!! idles at 29C and doesnt go above 50C while gaming. Its only got a 50mhz o/c on it and no VRM heatsinks but it runs just fine


----------



## RamGuy

Am I doing something terribly wrong with my NZXT G10 installations? I have installed it on three graphics cards; 1x GTX 770, 1x GTX 780 and 1x GTX Titan and its been only two days and my GTX Titan has gone straight down the toilet, at least so it seems. And I'm starting to notice similar problems with the GTX 770.

I have used a Corsair H110 on all three, mounted with 2x Noctua NF-A15 PWM on the GTX Titan, 2x Noctua NF-P12 on the GTX 780 and no fans on the radiator on the GTX 770. And they all have a Noctua A9x14 PWM in the fan portion of the G10. I used Noctua NT-H1 compound on all three.

I did even use copper heatsinks on the VRAM on all three cards..

I'm not entirely sure what happened with my GTX Titan, after the installation I checked the temperatures running Furmark and it didn't go past 56 degrees celsius, so no where near anything dangerous. I did also do a Intel Burn Test on the CPU at the same time just to be sure. Everything seemed to be running solid, way better compared to the stock cooler but when I tried to play a game like Titanfall my monitors went black within two minutes of gameplay. After a reboot I tried once again, now my monitors went black even faster and after 4-5 times I simply gave up.

Then I cranked all fans in my computer to 100% just to try it out, but same problem... Furmark and Intel Burn Test on the other hand was still going strong without any problems. I did never notice any issues within Windows itself either, only when launching actual games. Today I decided to completely delete all the graphics drivers and install them fresh, but then device manager started to nag me about error 43 due to Windows detecting that theres been too many issues with the hardware lately.. And I also started to notice various glitches and artefacts in the graphics all over the place, even during Windows booting.

I suppose my graphics card is fried? But how come? Considering the actual GPU never got past 60 degrees celsius even under stress testing, and I got copper heatsinks on the VRAM (only the VRAM chips) and the Noctua N9x14 PWM fan blowing directly on the graphics card how could it possibly get fried? Why didn't anything go wrong using Windows or during Furmark when it all went straight out the door within a few minutes of playing Titanfall and Heroes of the Storm?

Upon testing the GTX 770 on my girlfriends system, I simply fired up The Sims 4 the monitors went black after about 10-15 minutes as well.. So basically the exact same symptoms. The GPU is not getting above 60 degrees here either, but still it seems like something is going wrong.

What on earth might I be doing wrong here? This does not make any sense to me.


----------



## thebaltar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Did you try tightening the screws like we recommended?
> 
> Can you take a picture of your case and in paint, draw over the fans showing the airflow direction please?


I try, but i think the pcb began to warp, then i stop.
Should i try tighten more?

Pic one
https://scontent-gru.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11026105_10206404386256345_2175757185972636091_n.jpg?oh=6f8adf386cc26f62eb3be79f4767057b&oe=558A4B31

Pic Two
https://scontent-gru.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10345979_10206404386216344_6986952231725759273_n.jpg?oh=9a95fdcf2b4873d74f07b1aaca28ca03&oe=55BB1F3B


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@RamGuy

You should never use Furmark, even on a stock heatsink/fan, but especially using the G10. Furmark is a card killer, and you might have damaged the VRMs. I had something similar happen on my GTX 770 Lightning, except this was the stock cooler. I ran Furmark, and whenever I tried to run Unigine Heaven or Games, it would crash, black screen. The card was working perfectly fine for the two weeks before I ran Furmark, so the card wasn't the issue before hand.

I'm afraid you might have burnt out the VRMs. VRAM doesn't need heatsinks because VRAM just doesn't get as hot as VRMs, and aren't as fragile. VRMs are what you need to worry about. Are the fans running at the highest possible speed at all times? What case are you using? Are your radiator fans set to exhaust?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> I try, but i think the pcb began to warp, then i stop.
> Should i try tighten more?
> 
> Pic one
> https://scontent-gru.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11026105_10206404386256345_2175757185972636091_n.jpg?oh=6f8adf386cc26f62eb3be79f4767057b&oe=558A4B31
> 
> Pic Two
> https://scontent-gru.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10345979_10206404386216344_6986952231725759273_n.jpg?oh=9a95fdcf2b4873d74f07b1aaca28ca03&oe=55BB1F3B


Ok, so you have a BIG airflow problem. We need to redo the airflow in your case. The H75 needs to be set up as rear exhaust, try and use push/pull if at all possible, but you must set the H75 to rear exhaust.

Set the rest of the fans in your case to intake. The front, the side, the top.

Also, for tightening. You want to tighten until you see it bend just the slightest, then untighten until it is not bending, but no more.


----------



## gordesky1

Does this fit a msi 290x lightning? And if so will a h50 cool it better than the stock heat sink? Even tho the lightning is one of the best 290x coolers available and does cool it good. But when clocked at 1200/1600 it does get a bit toasty at 79-83c.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> Does this fit a msi 290x lightning? And if so will a h50 cool it better than the stock heat sink? Even tho the lightning is one of the best 290x coolers available and does cool it good. But when clocked at 1200/1600 it does get a bit toasty at 79-83c.


Yea, it is compatible. I would avoid the H50, go for the H55. not all H50s are compatible, because I guess there were two models of it or something, so if you are buying new, go for an H55. I imagine you getting temps in the sub 60s with a G10 + H55 at that OC.


----------



## RamGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @RamGuy
> 
> You should never use Furmark, even on a stock heatsink/fan, but especially using the G10. Furmark is a card killer, and you might have damaged the VRMs. I had something similar happen on my GTX 770 Lightning, except this was the stock cooler. I ran Furmark, and whenever I tried to run Unigine Heaven or Games, it would crash, black screen. The card was working perfectly fine for the two weeks before I ran Furmark, so the card wasn't the issue before hand.
> 
> I'm afraid you might have burnt out the VRMs. VRAM doesn't need heatsinks because VRAM just doesn't get as hot as VRMs, and aren't as fragile. VRMs are what you need to worry about. Are the fans running at the highest possible speed at all times? What case are you using? Are your radiator fans set to exhaust?


What would be a more suitable test instead of Furmark? I had it running for about 10-15 minutes on my primary system with GTX Titan, but the problem occurred before I ran Furmark.. I ran Furmark as a result of my monitors going black after about 20-30 seconds of Titanfall gameplay in order to rule out heat problems on the GPU.

My GTX Titan is obviously fried.. I mounted the stock cooler back onto it and these artefacts are not going anywhere. The GTX 770 in my girlfriends computer doesn't seem to be fried just yet. It works perfectly fine in Windows and everything else besides gaming. So I took it out and removed the NZXT G10 in order to put some copper heatsinks directly onto the VRM and I tried to rotate the fan so instead of pushing air directly onto the card it would instead pull hot air from / off the card. But it didn't make any difference whatsoever, it still gives black monitors after just a few seconds of staring Heroes of the Storm.

I have yet to do anything with the GTX 780 as it's running in the HTPC in the living room with live television through Windows Media Center etc.. My girlfriend does not fancy downtime on that machine, and running Windows and video, even MPC-HC with MadVR NNEDI3 and Smooth Video Project which is pushing the CPU and GPU to it's limits it does not show any kinds of problems. It's only when trying to play some DirectX games all things goes straight to hell.

I find it very hard to believe all three cards should be this hard to deal with? Most reviews I've read doesn't even use heatsinks, they simply put the NZXT G10 on their GTX 780, R9 290X etc.. and use the fan as the only cooling for the VRAM and VRM and it seems to be doing perfectly fine? Most tends to use a single 120-140mm radiator as well, and I'm using a 2x 140mm one and like I said, the actual GPU temperatures are pretty stellar..

How do one go by to verify whether the VRM is completely fried? I guess it shouldn't be too much of a problem getting the cards RMA'ed here in Norway but it's darn annoying and I suppose my retailer will react to me dumping all three cards at ones..


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> Does this fit a msi 290x lightning? And if so will a h50 cool it better than the stock heat sink? Even tho the lightning is one of the best 290x coolers available and does cool it good. But when clocked at 1200/1600 it does get a bit toasty at 79-83c.


It will fit the "quiet edition" of the H50 natively. The original tall version will not fit, however you can take a file or knife and trim it down to work with the G10 to a degree and it will work well.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@RamGuy

Use Unigine Heavy, Valley, Cinebench, in-game benchmark utilities.
It will be hard if anything DX11 is crashing though. The more I am hearing, the more I think it is a problem unrelated to the G10. If the Titan was doing this before with the stock cooler, then it's a broken card for some reason or another unbeknownst to us.

For the 770, you want your 92mm fan blowing directly onto the VRMs, not sucking air away. Air needs to flow quickly over the heat sinks for them to work well. I know you said you tried it both ways, but again,I'm not convinced it's a VRM problem.

It sounds like all of your cards have the same exact symptoms, the common denominator being the G10,but as you said, people with less are fine.

Maybe you tightened the bracket way too tight and the cards are bending/flexing? Maybe there is something making contact with the cards causing a short?

I would try RMAing them, because I don't think it is a G10 related problem.


----------



## RamGuy

I did not have any issues with either card before installing the G10. I did some more testing with the GTX 770 today and re-mounted the stock cooler and the card was working again. So then I went by and re-mounted the G10 back onto it with the Noctua fan blowing directly on to the card and then I got black monitors right after booting into Windows. This time around I tried to not tighten it as fast as before but it didn't seem to make much of a difference, I even tried to keep the stock VRM heatpipe from EVGA on it but it didn't make much of a difference.

It might be that the Noctua fan is simply not moving enough air, but I would expect it to last at least a few minutes with gaming before it started to struggle. The radiator itself and the GPU core temperatures are far from high. I can't see anything shorting out the card either, and if that would be the case shouldn't it have stopped working altogether from the get-go? I guess I'm back to using the stock cooling..


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamGuy*
> 
> I did not have any issues with either card before installing the G10. I did some more testing with the GTX 770 today and re-mounted the stock cooler and the card was working again. So then I went by and re-mounted the G10 back onto it with the Noctua fan blowing directly on to the card and then I got black monitors right after booting into Windows. This time around I tried to not tighten it as fast as before but it didn't seem to make much of a difference, I even tried to keep the stock VRM heatpipe from EVGA on it but it didn't make much of a difference.
> 
> It might be that the Noctua fan is simply not moving enough air, but I would expect it to last at least a few minutes with gaming before it started to struggle. The radiator itself and the GPU core temperatures are far from high. I can't see anything shorting out the card either, and if that would be the case shouldn't it have stopped working altogether from the get-go? I guess I'm back to using the stock cooling..


I thought you said the Titan was doing this before mounting the G10? Anyways, I still am not convinced that it is specifically the G10. If it is working in Furmark, or in Windows, but not in games... maybe something with drivers is not right. I know when my VRMs friend on the Lightning because of Furmark, my screen went black with white lines and never recovered.

Noctua fans while silent, are not the best when it comes to airflow through a radiator. Still, I don't think it has anything to do with the fans being used.

You definitely want to keep the stock mid-plate/VRM plate on your GPU when mounting the G10 if you have one. You should use a copper shim so that you get contact between the GPU die and the AIO. I don't think this will solve your problem though. If your card is able to withstand Furmark, but is crashing while gaming... I dunno, doesn't make sense.

Is the 92mm fan on the cards running at 100% at all times? It needs to be.


----------



## fisher6

Anyone running the G10 on a non reference GTX 970. I have the MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G which isn't officially supported afaik but I've seen two topics where people use it anyway (on msi and evga 970s). My main concern is the VRMs overheating.


----------



## RamGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I thought you said the Titan was doing this before mounting the G10? Anyways, I still am not convinced that it is specifically the G10. If it is working in Furmark, or in Windows, but not in games... maybe something with drivers is not right. I know when my VRMs friend on the Lightning because of Furmark, my screen went black with white lines and never recovered.
> 
> Noctua fans while silent, are not the best when it comes to airflow through a radiator. Still, I don't think it has anything to do with the fans being used.
> 
> You definitely want to keep the stock mid-plate/VRM plate on your GPU when mounting the G10 if you have one. You should use a copper shim so that you get contact between the GPU die and the AIO. I don't think this will solve your problem though. If your card is able to withstand Furmark, but is crashing while gaming... I dunno, doesn't make sense.
> 
> Is the 92mm fan on the cards running at 100% at all times? It needs to be.


I was not able to settle for the stock coolers... So I gave it another go today and this time I made sure I didn't tighten too much and I used the spacers (or whatever you would call them. Those two rubberish things you are supposed to stick to the far side in order to make sure the metal does not touch anything on the graphics card) which I did use before. I also did a test and compared the included 92 mm fan and compared it to my Noctua NF-A9X14 PWM and ran the both at 100% speed too see whether the Noctua might have a lower airflow compared to the included one. But it was quite clear that the Noctua one was superior in every possible way, it had a noticeable better airflow and it was more silent even at max 2000 RPM.

I popped everything back in, and because of the EVGA VRM plate from the GTX 770 makes it impossible to mount the actual cooler properly and I don't have a copper plate to negate that problem I decided to stick some copper heatsinks all over the card, on both the VRAM and everywhere I was able to place one over the VRM as well. Thus far it seems to be working, I have ran about 40 minutes of Heaven Benchmark and it started at about 30 degrees and have since then increased to 46 degrees but it seems stable and 46 degrees under full load is fantastic if you ask me.

So I decided to put the G10 back onto the GTX 780 in my HTPC as well, as this one had a MSI TwinFrozr cooler I was able to use the VRM plate with the G10 and this one has also been going for about 40 min with Heaven Benchmark and it tops at about 80 degrees without any black screens or any kind of awkward problems. The reason why it gets so much hotter compared to the GTX 770 is mostly because the actual radiator has no fans on it, it's being cooled by the two front in-take fans which are very close but not mounted on the actual raditor. Not ideal, but I don't really have room for anything else and as long as it doesn't go above 80-degrees I see no reason for struggeling with it.

So it might seem that I either tighten too hard making for some really awkward problems, or the metal plate actually ended up touching the graphics card and shorten something out. I don't understand how they both would seem to work fine in Windows, during movie playback etc.. But hey, now it seems to be working so I won't complain.

My GTX Titan is completely dead though, it might be because I pushed it too hard with Furmark without the Noctua fan spinning at 100%, I think it was more around 1100-1300 RPM instead of 2'000 RPM and I guess the cooler was tighten too hard all leading in a huge mess and me pushing Furmark simply made the VRM's getting fried. This seems to be irreversible but I'm getting it RMA'ed tomorrow.. Only sad thing is the GTX Tian being EoL at my retailer, same goes for Titan Black and the GTX 980 is simply inferior in terms of overall compute performance and as I'm using DSR etc.. I find the 4GB of VRAM to be lacking, so I'm not exactly sure what I'm supposed to get it replaced with as GTX Titan X and GTX 980 Ti is likely a few weeks from being released.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamGuy*
> 
> I was not able to settle for the stock coolers... So I gave it another go today and this time I made sure I didn't tighten too much and I used the spacers (or whatever you would call them. Those two rubberish things you are supposed to stick to the far side in order to make sure the metal does not touch anything on the graphics card) which I did use before. I also did a test and compared the included 92 mm fan and compared it to my Noctua NF-A9X14 PWM and ran the both at 100% speed too see whether the Noctua might have a lower airflow compared to the included one. But it was quite clear that the Noctua one was superior in every possible way, it had a noticeable better airflow and it was more silent even at max 2000 RPM.
> 
> I popped everything back in, and because of the EVGA VRM plate from the GTX 770 makes it impossible to mount the actual cooler properly and I don't have a copper plate to negate that problem I decided to stick some copper heatsinks all over the card, on both the VRAM and everywhere I was able to place one over the VRM as well. Thus far it seems to be working, I have ran about 40 minutes of Heaven Benchmark and it started at about 30 degrees and have since then increased to 46 degrees but it seems stable and 46 degrees under full load is fantastic if you ask me.
> 
> So I decided to put the G10 back onto the GTX 780 in my HTPC as well, as this one had a MSI TwinFrozr cooler I was able to use the VRM plate with the G10 and this one has also been going for about 40 min with Heaven Benchmark and it tops at about 80 degrees without any black screens or any kind of awkward problems. The reason why it gets so much hotter compared to the GTX 770 is mostly because the actual radiator has no fans on it, it's being cooled by the two front in-take fans which are very close but not mounted on the actual raditor. Not ideal, but I don't really have room for anything else and as long as it doesn't go above 80-degrees I see no reason for struggeling with it.
> 
> So it might seem that I either tighten too hard making for some really awkward problems, or the metal plate actually ended up touching the graphics card and shorten something out. I don't understand how they both would seem to work fine in Windows, during movie playback etc.. But hey, now it seems to be working so I won't complain.
> 
> My GTX Titan is completely dead though, it might be because I pushed it too hard with Furmark without the Noctua fan spinning at 100%, I think it was more around 1100-1300 RPM instead of 2'000 RPM and I guess the cooler was tighten too hard all leading in a huge mess and me pushing Furmark simply made the VRM's getting fried. This seems to be irreversible but I'm getting it RMA'ed tomorrow.. Only sad thing is the GTX Tian being EoL at my retailer, same goes for Titan Black and the GTX 980 is simply inferior in terms of overall compute performance and as I'm using DSR etc.. I find the 4GB of VRAM to be lacking, so I'm not exactly sure what I'm supposed to get it replaced with as GTX Titan X and GTX 980 Ti is likely a few weeks from being released.


Glad to hear it! I was skeptical about you having killed the VRMs on all of your cards, as, in my experience, if you blow a VRM, that's the last time you'll use that card (my last one actually smoked a bit; ahh, fond gtx 580 memories) or boot up your PC with said card installed.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@RamGuy

Really glad you got it working!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

EVERYONE, and I mean freaking EVERYONE needs to check out Geggeg's G10 Unboxing, Review, and Testing.

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/329542-nzxt-kraken-g10/


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamGuy*
> 
> What would be a more suitable test instead of Furmark? I had it running for about 10-15 minutes on my primary system with GTX Titan, but the problem occurred before I ran Furmark.. I ran Furmark as a result of my monitors going black after about 20-30 seconds of Titanfall gameplay in order to rule out heat problems on the GPU.
> 
> My GTX Titan is obviously fried.. I mounted the stock cooler back onto it and these artefacts are not going anywhere. The GTX 770 in my girlfriends computer doesn't seem to be fried just yet. It works perfectly fine in Windows and everything else besides gaming. So I took it out and removed the NZXT G10 in order to put some copper heatsinks directly onto the VRM and I tried to rotate the fan so instead of pushing air directly onto the card it would instead pull hot air from / off the card. But it didn't make any difference whatsoever, it still gives black monitors after just a few seconds of staring Heroes of the Storm.
> 
> I have yet to do anything with the GTX 780 as it's running in the HTPC in the living room with live television through Windows Media Center etc.. My girlfriend does not fancy downtime on that machine, and running Windows and video, even MPC-HC with MadVR NNEDI3 and Smooth Video Project which is pushing the CPU and GPU to it's limits it does not show any kinds of problems. It's only when trying to play some DirectX games all things goes straight to hell.
> 
> I find it very hard to believe all three cards should be this hard to deal with? Most reviews I've read doesn't even use heatsinks, they simply put the NZXT G10 on their GTX 780, R9 290X etc.. and use the fan as the only cooling for the VRAM and VRM and it seems to be doing perfectly fine? Most tends to use a single 120-140mm radiator as well, and I'm using a 2x 140mm one and like I said, the actual GPU temperatures are pretty stellar..
> 
> How do one go by to verify whether the VRM is completely fried? I guess it shouldn't be too much of a problem getting the cards RMA'ed here in Norway but it's darn annoying and I suppose my retailer will react to me dumping all three cards at ones..


I had to put a few VRM heatsinks on the underside of my 970. The card already has a few heatsinks directly on top of the VRMs on the front. Even then the VRM temperature hits a max of 92c in Dying Light. I have a NZXT Sentry 3 so I hooked up the temperature probe to directly under VRM heatsinks and I'd say its pretty accurate to a degree of 1-2C. For now I don't have many issues except with the same memory OC I get artifacts so I had to tone down the OC. The 90mm fan helps quite a bit, I'm sure I'd be easily hitting over 100c without it.

Since you have the 7 series cards I'd imagine they will run even hotter and it's going to be much easier to fry those VRMs.

I also had a MSI 760 Hawk (stock cooler) which I had to RMA thrice just for running Furmark and Valley.


----------



## fisher6

I mounted one on my MsI GTX 970 along with the H75. Temps i AC:Unity went from 70-75C to 46C under load. I only ran Firestrike a few times and all seems well. Will do some more benchmarking today and see. Sadly, I have no way to measure VRM temps.


----------



## Bravoexo

Have you checked GPU-Z's monitor?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bravoexo*
> 
> Have you checked GPU-Z's monitor?


No, I haven't, in fact I have no idea if it's possible to monitor VRM temps on the GTX 970 without a probe. Will check when I get home.


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bravoexo*
> 
> Have you checked GPU-Z's monitor?


\

Nvidia cards generally don't have vrm thermal sensors. I'm not sure if certain partner cards will have it though.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> \
> 
> Nvidia cards generally don't have vrm thermal sensors. I'm not sure if certain partner cards will have it though.


Nothing in GPU-Z. Doesn't seem like it's possible out of the box. Is there any risk of frying the card, I won't run furmark


----------



## mtlam2000

Been lurking on this thread for awhile and I finally bit the bullet and got a H55 + G10 for my R9 290x. It was the tri-x version and ran hot all the time.

I was reading with interest about the VRM temp concerns so I decided to open up my old X1900xt up to see what kind of heat sinks I could use. Low and behold the VRM heat sink on my old card fit perfectly! The VRAM Heat sink didnt fit and I was afraid it would interfere with the bracket.



With that in place, the install went smoothly. I chose a front mount on a NZXT H440 and forgot to turn the fan around to exhaust! LOL. I was a bit lazy and decided to try it out anyway.

I like look of the bracket and matches the H440 perfectly. I plan to xfire another R9 290X when my G10 backorder comes in.

For now this is what it looks like:




Here is a screen shot of Valley running for about 30 mins. The VRM temps are holding steady.


----------



## destrekor

So I am a brand new member of this club.

I kind of went all out, well, at least in a limited sense. I have a MSI 290X Lightning Crossfire setup, but the top card got way, way too hot, and unbearably loud. So, I went with a Kraken G10 and chose a Corsair H75 to use with it. To accommodate that, I had to switch from the NH-D14 to a H100i, and, well... I'm so-so on that decision, but it opened up room for the H75. Perhaps I could have got by with an H50 or something, but with my plans to overclock these Lightnings, I'm not sure.

Before I continue, I must say, the NH-D14 is a phenomenal air cooler. It's silent and is right up there with CLC/AIO kits. I had been told the H100i may have been overkill, but frankly, I'm glad I went with it, because it barely outdoes my NH-D14, and that's only in pure temperature statistics. And I mean barely. I didn't actually record the stats so my memory could be failing me, but if the H100i bested the Noctua, I think it was by but a few degrees Celsius, perhaps only one or two. That is only based on a few rounds of LinX, so gaming would be a different sotry.

That said, that is only the story of temperature. Sweet jesus, the noise profile is far different. The NH-D14 is dead silent in the scheme of things. The H100i? Once my 2600K @ 4.4GHz crossed into the 70s (Centigrade), those fans were spinning madly, quite loud.

First thing I figure, I have got to replace these in the very near future. I figure some Noctua's will do very well, like the NF-P12?

I digress...

As I have it now, the H75 puts the top card at about 60-65ºC during some looping of Unigen Heaven. My bottom card, using the excellent 290x Lightning cooler (a beast of a cooler), gets to about 71ºC at max. I'm not thrilled at the fan profile at that temperature, and perhaps Afterburner can help me some there, but I also want to overclock without raising the volume significantly. However, I'll get to that in the near future and see what I can eek out without going crazy.

But I'm wondering if I can achieve better on the G10/H75 combo? I've got the two fans of the H75, as well as the NZXT 92mm fan on the G10, connected to a 4-pin molex connector setup I rigged using a different fan's PWM-to-molex connector.

Ultimately, I've re-arranged the molex pins so that the fans are given a 7-volt connection as opposed to 12v. Considering the H100i drives me nuts at high-levels, I'm glad I went with this decision. I've contemplated getting a PWM to VGA fan adapter, but I do wonder if it would really matter in the end.
At 7v, these fans should still be running at a half-decent speed. Could I make a significant dent in the temperature by choosing some better fans with higher static pressure? Or should I be happy that I'm getting this temperature reduction with far less noise?

As an aside, I should note that I have also left the full backplate and base plate on the 290x Lightning, so the main VRM is fully covered, and 2/3's of the VRAM chips are covered. Only a portion of the smaller VRM group closer to the rear IO ports is covered by the stock heat spreaders, but I don't know if this needs addressed. Afterburner reported VRM temps equal to my second card, which makes sense considering both are covered by the same base plates and backplates. A future plan is to replace that stock sleeve-bearing NZXT fan, but elsewhere is my focus for now, as it works and, thanks to the full base plate and backplate setup by MSI, I'm not extremely worried in the near term, only for long-term survival of that fan.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I have a question for those using a card that can monitor VRM temps with the NZXT G10 Bracket, but don't use any kind of heatsinks. Or eventually added heatsinks, I just want to know what your results were, positive or negative of going from stock cooler/heatsink to G10 without extra heatsinks. It is fine if your card has a built-in heatsink, but please mention it.

I am specifically curious about, what your VRM1/2 temps are with the G10, without additional heatsinks?

I recall a few people going from 100C on the stock cooler down to 70-80C with the G10 without adding any heatsinks?

Can anyone please chime in with your either positive or negative results using the G10 on VRM monitoring card without any extra VRM heatsinks please?


----------



## Bravoexo

The latest GPU-Z finally showed VRM temps on my ASUS GTX680 DC2 4GB cards... idle were 45C, load was near 75C on the stock
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Nothing in GPU-Z. Doesn't seem like it's possible out of the box. Is there any risk of frying the card, I won't run furmark


Here's load vrm temps on my ASUS GTX680s



Once I get my G10's and H75s here, my target will be to never reach above 75C (thankfully the GTX680 4GB DCuII have mosfets heatsinks instealled.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bravoexo*
> 
> The latest GPU-Z finally showed VRM temps on my ASUS GTX680 DC2 4GB cards... idle were 45C, load was near 75C on the stock
> Here's load vrm temps on my ASUS GTX680s
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get my G10's and H75s here, my target will be to never reach above 75C (thankfully the GTX680 4GB DCuII have mosfets heatsinks instealled.


I'm using the latest version too but don't see that in GPU-Z. Could be different between MSI and ASUS maybe. I overclocked yesterday (+155 core and 350 mem) and everything has been working fine so far. I will try to increase it some more.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I have a question for those using a card that can monitor VRM temps with the NZXT G10 Bracket, but don't use any kind of heatsinks. Or eventually added heatsinks, I just want to know what your results were, positive or negative of going from stock cooler/heatsink to G10 without extra heatsinks. It is fine if your card has a built-in heatsink, but please mention it.
> 
> I am specifically curious about, what your VRM1/2 temps are with the G10, without additional heatsinks?
> 
> I recall a few people going from 100C on the stock cooler down to 70-80C with the G10 without adding any heatsinks?
> 
> Can anyone please chime in with your either positive or negative results using the G10 on VRM monitoring card without any extra VRM heatsinks please?


on my xfx 290DD the vrms were close to 100C with stock, with just the g10 they dropped to close to 90C and then with the gelid heatsink heat they dont get above 80C with 2x 120mm fans blowing gently over them from below (in my NCASE M1).


----------



## destrekor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I'm using the latest version too but don't see that in GPU-Z. Could be different between MSI and ASUS maybe. I overclocked yesterday (+155 core and 350 mem) and everything has been working fine so far. I will try to increase it some more.


Hmm, 0.8.1 showed one VRM Temperature for one of my 290x Lightnings, and two VRM temperatures for the second card.

0.8.2 now shows both VRM temperatures for both, which is now handy to compare G10 vs stock 290x Lightning cooler. However, I do have the base plate and back plate of the Lightning still installed on the card with the G10.

MSI's 290x Lightning has terrific VRM components, they remain very cool unlike the reference components.

I do wish GPU-Z had a configuration file or something, that would help us to be able to select what sensor data we want to see. It's annoying that there isn't consistency.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> Hmm, 0.8.1 showed one VRM Temperature for one of my 290x Lightnings, and two VRM temperatures for the second card.
> 
> 0.8.2 now shows both VRM temperatures for both, which is now handy to compare G10 vs stock 290x Lightning cooler. However, I do have the base plate and back plate of the Lightning still installed on the card with the G10.
> 
> MSI's 290x Lightning has terrific VRM components, they remain very cool unlike the reference components.
> 
> I do wish GPU-Z had a configuration file or something, that would help us to be able to select what sensor data we want to see. It's annoying that there isn't consistency.


Agreed, although I'm not really worried about my VRM temps that much. The GTX 970 doesn't produce that much heat compared to other cards. One of the main reason I like the G10 is that now hot air is not dumped into my h440 case anymore since the GPU is watercooled.


----------



## ALIENisGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> Hmm, 0.8.1 showed one VRM Temperature for one of my 290x Lightnings, and two VRM temperatures for the second card.
> 
> 0.8.2 now shows both VRM temperatures for both, which is now handy to compare G10 vs stock 290x Lightning cooler. However, I do have the base plate and back plate of the Lightning still installed on the card with the G10.
> 
> MSI's 290x Lightning has terrific VRM components, they remain very cool unlike the reference components.
> 
> I do wish GPU-Z had a configuration file or something, that would help us to be able to select what sensor data we want to see. It's annoying that there isn't consistency.


suggest that over at TPU on the forums







W1zzard is usually open to at least discussing ideas/changes for gpu z.


----------



## TheBoom

I guess that was only for AMD cards or older GTXs. From what I know, the current Nvidia cards (7xx and up) don't have VRM thermal sensors built into them at all to retrieve data.

What we're probably seeing here is a rare scenario where the partner brand (ASUS in this case) has decided to put one on the 680gtx.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Agreed, although I'm not really worried about my VRM temps that much. The GTX 970 doesn't produce that much heat compared to other cards. One of the main reason I like the G10 is that now hot air is not dumped into my h440 case anymore since the GPU is watercooled.


My 970 produced a hell lot of heat actually. Which was the main reason I went for the Kraken G10. VRM temps are now still around 85-90c with the NZXT 90mm fan blowing over them on full load.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> I guess that was only for AMD cards or older GTXs. From what I know, the current Nvidia cards (7xx and up) don't have VRM thermal sensors built into them at all to retrieve data.
> 
> What we're probably seeing here is a rare scenario where the partner brand (ASUS in this case) has decided to put one on the 680gtx.
> My 970 produced a hell lot of heat actually. Which was the main reason I went for the Kraken G10. VRM temps are now still around 85-90c with the NZXT 90mm fan blowing over them on full load.


Do you remember what your VRM temps were before switching to G10?


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Do you remember what your VRM temps were before switching to G10?


Unfortunately I didn't have the fan controller at that time yet. But what I can say is that they were previously much hotter to the touch then compared to now. Which is weird considering the smaller heatsinks were in contact with the much larger stock cooler heatsink that covered the GPU die as well. I'm guessing the fans just couldn't keep up with the heat the core itself was putting out.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> Unfortunately I didn't have the fan controller at that time yet. But what I can say is that they were previously much hotter to the touch then compared to now. Which is weird considering the smaller heatsinks were in contact with the much larger stock cooler heatsink that covered the GPU die as well. I'm guessing the fans just couldn't keep up with the heat the core itself was putting out.


Same here, my card is much cooler on the back side now when I touch it compared to when I had the stock MSI cooler.


----------



## Infinite Jest

I'm considering buying a 780ti this weekend (two VGA upgrades in two weeks; is this a record?







) and if I do, I'd like to transfer this bracket from my reference 780 to it. However, the caveat is that the 780ti is the MSI Gaming/OC edition with the TF cooler, meaning I don't think it has a reference PCB. I did find instances of people using the bracket without issue, but I'm concerned about a guy's comment in an Amazon review, professing that a PWM fan must be plugged into the card fan header for the card to function. IMO, this doesn't make sense, but can anyone else confirm or deny this? I have the bracket fan, in my current setup, hooked to my fan controller.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I'm considering buying a 780ti this weekend (two VGA upgrades in two weeks; is this a record?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and if I do, I'd like to transfer this bracket from my reference 780 to it. However, the caveat is that the 780ti is the MSI Gaming/OC edition with the TF cooler, meaning I don't think it has a reference PCB. I did find instances of people using the bracket without issue, but I'm concerned about a guy's comment in an Amazon review, professing that a PWM fan must be plugged into the card fan header for the card to function. IMO, this doesn't make sense, but can anyone else confirm or deny this? I have the bracket fan, in my current setup, hooked to my fan controller.


That doesn't make much sense considering GPUs have a specialty plug for their fans. Worst case scenario, you buy a VGA to PWM adapter, which is incredibly handy to have anyways, and I encourage everyone to get one.

Here is the PCB of your card:


It looks perfectly normal and compatible to me. Install with confidence!


----------



## Bravoexo

Finally cooling the Asus GTX680 4Gb cards...


----------



## fisher6

Little update for those interested. Been using the G10 on my non reference GTX 970 for almost a week. Ovelcocked +220 on core and +500 on memory. Played Unity for a few hours last weekend and ran valley benchmark a few times and everything seems to be working fine. Only thing I did was switching to Noctua NFF12 fans on the h75. Temps are around 58C while playing. Thinking to get a converter and change the nzxt fan to a noctua one that can be controlled by the GPU.


----------



## magbarn

Has anyone tried a G10 setup with a Titan X yet? My main worry are the VRM's....


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magbarn*
> 
> Has anyone tried a G10 setup with a Titan X yet? My main worry are the VRM's....


I don't think I'd want any less than a full cover block with a Titan X, she's definitely a hot running card for sure. Corsair's HG10 is probably the only thing currently that'll cool your VRM without bothering with 3rd party or salvaged heatsinks/etc but they haven't released to 7xx/Titan series model yet, maybe they were waiting for the Titan X to add to compatibility list?


----------



## curly haired boy

i was thinking the same thing - i want a titan, and i'll probably overclock it, but i want the kraken for cooling...


----------



## Plzmane

I have a Gainward 970, and my G10 and H75 are just laying around right now. Is it really necessary to use 3rd party heatsinks? Touching some chips on the backside of the card, i only think they get to about 60C during testing with BF4 on a 32 man server. I'm going to The Gathering (Worlds second biggest LAN-party) on April 1st. Doubt I would get some heatsinks in time.


----------



## nycgtr

I am really tempted to try this on my slied 980 kpes. Waiting for a waterblock to come out, but that looks to be weeks away. I really need the temp reduction!!!


----------



## dickticks

Double Posted *Sorry*


----------



## dickticks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Little update for those interested. Been using the G10 on my non reference GTX 970 for almost a week. Ovelcocked +220 on core and +500 on memory. Played Unity for a few hours last weekend and ran valley benchmark a few times and everything seems to be working fine. Only thing I did was switching to Noctua NFF12 fans on the h75. Temps are around 58C while playing. Thinking to get a converter and change the nzxt fan to a noctua one that can be controlled by the GPU.


Which card do you have? I've got the MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G and I'm trying to find out if the G10 + AIO is a safe choice. Since the VRM is on the wrong side of the card I'm worried about the card being ruined without the Twin FrozR cooling that section.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dickticks*
> 
> Which card do you have? I've got the MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G and I'm trying to find out if the G10 + AIO is a safe choice. Since the VRM is on the wrong side of the card I'm worried about the card being ruined without the Twin FrozR cooling that section.


To get cooling over the VRMs, you will need to ghetto rig a fan to blow over them, or there are products available to help with this. The Antec Spot Cool comes to mind, as well as a PCI Fan bracket.


----------



## bmoore06

Can someone tell me if the G10 works on the Titan X? Mine comes in tomorrow and I had the G10 with x41 on my 780 and want to use it on the Titan X.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> To get cooling over the VRMs, you will need to ghetto rig a fan to blow over them, or there are products available to help with this. The Antec Spot Cool comes to mind, as well as a PCI Fan bracket.


Would I be able to use cable ties to kind of attach a 80/120mm fan to the VRMs?

Does the msi 970 not already have heatsinks for the VRMs?


----------



## Bravoexo

The ASUS GTX680s' I have do have oem heatsinks, but it still reached 88C max on the vrm after the G10+H75 mod, wouldn't minded it but I noticed how slow it went back down.... have having a side firing SP120L fan to cool both vrms now maxes out at 66C, and the cooldown period is pretty quick...


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmoore06*
> 
> Can someone tell me if the G10 works on the Titan X? Mine comes in tomorrow and I had the G10 with x41 on my 780 and want to use it on the Titan X.


I wouldn't see why not.


----------



## magbarn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmoore06*
> 
> Can someone tell me if the G10 works on the Titan X? Mine comes in tomorrow and I had the G10 with x41 on my 780 and want to use it on the Titan X.


I'm wary of putting a G10 on my Titan X due to potential VRM issues. The good news is that the VRMS would be directly underneath the fan. The bad news is that nobody makes heatsinks for the the VRM's so you'd be limited to the small surface area of the VRM's themselves for cooling. Maybe for stock voltage/mild o/c it might be ok, but I wouldn't risk raising the voltage without a better VRM cooling solution. I wonder if Gelid would make a VRM heatsink like the ones they made for the 290x.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magbarn*
> 
> I'm wary of putting a G10 on my Titan X due to potential VRM issues. The good news is that the VRMS would be directly underneath the fan. The bad news is that nobody makes heatsinks for the the VRM's so you'd be limited to the small surface area of the VRM's themselves for cooling. Maybe for stock voltage/mild o/c it might be ok, but I wouldn't risk raising the voltage without a better VRM cooling solution. I wonder if Gelid would make a VRM heatsink like the ones they made for the 290x.


Could easily just buy generic heatsinks and stick them on, that's what a lot of people do.


----------



## nycgtr

I wouldn't be able to get myself to glue heatsinks on my titan x lol. I rather just go full water with a water block and a loop. Even if you bought a block and something like a h220x its what 270 bucks. Much better than ghetto rigging a 120ish dollar solution. If you afford a titan, dont cheap out on cooling it. Not only will it look better, you will have better temps overall.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I wouldn't be able to get myself to glue heatsinks on my titan x lol. I rather just go full water with a water block and a loop. Even if you bought a block and something like a h220x its what 270 bucks. Much better than ghetto rigging a 120ish dollar solution. If you afford a titan, dont cheap out on cooling it. Not only will it look better, you will have better temps overall.


I understand where you're coming from, but given its power efficiency, taping (rather than gluing) heat sinks on would probably be fine.


----------



## Hazardz

I may finally have to time to put in the H55 on the R9 290 but I need some input. Currently, it's going into my wife's Lian Li PC-7FN case and there's only a 140mm intake in the front and a 120mm exhaust in the back. I'll be putting SSD and HDDs into a Silverstone CFP52B and adding a 120mm intake at the 5.25" bays.










I see a number of people saying that the radiator should always be set to exhaust. My concern with that is that this case doesn't have a hole on top and I'm going to continuing using the NH-D14 so it needs to keep the airflow moving out the back.

Plan A here is what many have said about using these AIO coolers.










For plan B, I was thinking of adding a quiet 80mm fan in the PCI slots in the back with some silicone pins and making the H55 take in cool air instead so I can try to keep the air moving from front to back. I'm using the existing 140mm via an adapter to push air through the radiator and the 120mm to pull the warm air from the radiator and hopefully through the case and out the back.










Plan B good, bad or just plan stupid?

On a side note, I bought VRM coolers for no reason at all. The Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duo already have VRM coolers and RAMsinks.


----------



## destrekor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I may finally have to time to put in the H55 on the R9 290 but I need some input. Currently, it's going into my wife's Lian Li PC-7FN case and there's only a 140mm intake in the front and a 120mm exhaust in the back. I'll be putting SSD and HDDs into a Silverstone CFP52B and adding a 120mm intake at the 5.25" bays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see a number of people saying that the radiator should always be set to exhaust. My concern with that is that this case doesn't have a hole on top and I'm going to continuing using the NH-D14 so it needs to keep the airflow moving out the back.
> 
> Plan A here is what many have said about using these AIO coolers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For plan B, I was thinking of adding a quiet 80mm fan in the PCI slots in the back with some silicone pins and making the H55 take in cool air instead so I can try to keep the air moving from front to back. I'm using the existing 140mm via an adapter to push air through the radiator and the 120mm to pull the warm air from the radiator and hopefully through the case and out the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plan B good, bad or just plan stupid?
> 
> On a side note, I bought VRM coolers for no reason at all. The Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duo already have VRM coolers and RAMsinks.


So right now, you have the 290 in the case, yes? And the only exhaust is out the rear? Or is this going to be the first time that the 290 is in the case you are describing?

If the card has already been in the case, I'd expect you to see no detriment to CPU cooling by having the H55 installed for Intake. The hot air is already getting mixed into the air cooling the CPU, so it shouldn't be any different. It may even be a bit better. I'd be curious how the airflow would perform if you set it to exhaust. That might hit the airflow for the CPU and actually lead to worse CPU cooling. Perhaps marginally, perhaps significantly, perhaps not at all.

If the card has not been in the case, well, I'd say, experiment. Exhaust might induce a bit of turbulence and lead to ineffective cooling for one or all parts, whereas intake might dump more hot air into the case but perform better than exhaust.

And generally, it is actually suggested that radiator fans be set to Intake, because that means you are getting the coolest air possible. However, this leads to more warm air in the system, which isn't a good idea if you still have an air cooler for the CPU. If you had all components water cooled, then all radiator fans set to intake would be the best configuration.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> So right now, you have the 290 in the case, yes? And the only exhaust is out the rear? Or is this going to be the first time that the 290 is in the case you are describing?
> 
> If the card has already been in the case, I'd expect you to see no detriment to CPU cooling by having the H55 installed for Intake. The hot air is already getting mixed into the air cooling the CPU, so it shouldn't be any different. It may even be a bit better. I'd be curious how the airflow would perform if you set it to exhaust. That might hit the airflow for the CPU and actually lead to worse CPU cooling. Perhaps marginally, perhaps significantly, perhaps not at all.
> 
> If the card has not been in the case, well, I'd say, experiment. Exhaust might induce a bit of turbulence and lead to ineffective cooling for one or all parts, whereas intake might dump more hot air into the case but perform better than exhaust.
> 
> And generally, it is actually suggested that radiator fans be set to Intake, because that means you are getting the coolest air possible. However, this leads to more warm air in the system, which isn't a good idea if you still have an air cooler for the CPU. If you had all components water cooled, then all radiator fans set to intake would be the best configuration.


The R9 290 is currently installed an runs at a toasty 93C under heavy load, essentially like a reference R9 290 but with this dual fan Turbo Duo cooler.







It's long enough that it may separately the air flow of the top half of the case from the bottom of the case. Adding the intake to the top front, the CPU should get it's own cool air (slightly warmed by a pair of WD greens) that's independent of what air flows in the bottoms half the case.

The only concern I have is that if the H55 is an intake, how will that affect the temperature of the GPU as it passes through the case? My idea is to add the 80mm exhaust to move the air through better hoping that is won't affect the GPU at all. I figured the PCI grills are good enough that I can use the silicone pines to mount the fan and still have a reasonable exhaust.

Additionally, I'll be upgrading the CPU as well to a supposedly cooler X5675 from the current i7 920 C0.


----------



## destrekor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> The R9 290 is currently installed an runs at a toasty 93C under heavy load, essentially like a reference R9 290 but with this dual fan Turbo Duo cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's long enough that it may separately the air flow of the top half of the case from the bottom of the case. Adding the intake to the top front, the CPU should get it's own cool air (slightly warmed by a pair of WD greens) that's independent of what air flows in the bottoms half the case.
> 
> The only concern I have is that if the H55 is an intake, how will that affect the temperature of the GPU as it passes through the case? My idea is to add the 80mm exhaust to move the air through better hoping that is won't affect the GPU at all. I figured the PCI grills are good enough that I can use the silicone pines to mount the fan and still have a reasonable exhaust.
> 
> Additionally, I'll be upgrading the CPU as well to a supposedly cooler X5675 from the current i7 920 C0.


If the H55 is set for Intake, the warm air really won't do anything to the GPU. The significant areas to worry about for the GPU is the GPU die itself, and that is being handled by the H55. The fan on the Kraken G10 should easily handle the rest of the card. I don't know how your specific model deals with cooling the VRMs, RAM, and PWM if that even has direct cooling of any sort. I know on my 290X Lightning, I could leave the heatsink baseplate and the backplate installed, and coupled with the already very efficient and cool-running VRMs, I have zero worry or issue with temps. If your card is essentially a reference PCB, you may choose to invest in mini heatsinks for the VRMs and memory ICs.

In fact, you should cool the VRMs and Memory ICs regardless, even with the best case cooling if those are left bare on a reference 290 PCB, they will likely get very toasty.

It sounds like it might not matter very much which you choose, intake or exhaust. I'd give both a try. I'd start with exhaust and run a few tests. That way, when you switch to intake, if you notice better temperatures CPU temperatures, you won't have to undo the setup. And of additional benefit is that if the H55 is set to intake, the GPU _will_ run cooler.

Now, regarding your CPU upgrade: I'm assuming you've verified the motherboard will support that particular Xeon? A very nice upgrade if it does. At first I was thrown off choosing a Xeon and wasn't sure if just any 1336 CPU would be compatible, but a little digging shows that's a great upgrade path if its available to you. Based on what I found, I'm also assuming you'll be overclocking?

That's an era that I have totally forgot. I skipped that era and didn't put together a new build until Sandy Bridge. So strange seeing chips like that Xeon and a need for upping the BCLK - I remember fondly the days of bumping up the FSB and whatnot. Starting with Sandy Bridge, touching the BCLK basically became a no-no, everything is in the multiplier, and you have to have approved chips with unlocked multipliers. Such a bummer compared to how it used to be.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> If the H55 is set for Intake, the warm air really won't do anything to the GPU. The significant areas to worry about for the GPU is the GPU die itself, and that is being handled by the H55. The fan on the Kraken G10 should easily handle the rest of the card. I don't know how your specific model deals with cooling the VRMs, RAM, and PWM if that even has direct cooling of any sort. I know on my 290X Lightning, I could leave the heatsink baseplate and the backplate installed, and coupled with the already very efficient and cool-running VRMs, I have zero worry or issue with temps. If your card is essentially a reference PCB, you may choose to invest in mini heatsinks for the VRMs and memory ICs.
> 
> In fact, you should cool the VRMs and Memory ICs regardless, even with the best case cooling if those are left bare on a reference 290 PCB, they will likely get very toasty.
> 
> It sounds like it might not matter very much which you choose, intake or exhaust. I'd give both a try. I'd start with exhaust and run a few tests. That way, when you switch to intake, if you notice better temperatures CPU temperatures, you won't have to undo the setup. And of additional benefit is that if the H55 is set to intake, the GPU _will_ run cooler.


The Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duo comes with VRM heatsinks on both sets of VRM. Here's the big one by the PCI-E power plugs.



And it has heatsinks on the RAM too.



And a backplate. I'll probably just flip the Kraken G10 backplate to the foam sticks out just like someone else here did. Hopefully the screws are long enough.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> Now, regarding your CPU upgrade: I'm assuming you've verified the motherboard will support that particular Xeon? A very nice upgrade if it does. At first I was thrown off choosing a Xeon and wasn't sure if just any 1336 CPU would be compatible, but a little digging shows that's a great upgrade path if its available to you. Based on what I found, I'm also assuming you'll be overclocking?
> 
> That's an era that I have totally forgot. I skipped that era and didn't put together a new build until Sandy Bridge. So strange seeing chips like that Xeon and a need for upping the BCLK - I remember fondly the days of bumping up the FSB and whatnot. Starting with Sandy Bridge, touching the BCLK basically became a no-no, everything is in the multiplier, and you have to have approved chips with unlocked multipliers. Such a bummer compared to how it used to be.


It's going onto a Gigabyte X58A-UD5 Rev 1. It supports the W3600 series so I don't see why is won't support the X5600 series. This guy here has an X58A-UD3R Rev 1 running an X5650 so I'm guessing my wife's board should work.

I already have the CPU and have tested it on a Gigabyte EX58-UD3R Rev 1.6 for a week without issue. Didn't overclock it though. Even at stock, it's a great chip for video compression. Crunching 720p video gave me a good 40 or 45% increase in performance over the X5550 that was in there.

The old days of FSB/BCLK are gone and I miss them.


----------



## destrekor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> The Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duo comes with VRM heatsinks on both sets of VRM. Here's the big one by the PCI-E power plugs.
> 
> 
> 
> And it has heatsinks on the RAM too.
> 
> 
> 
> And a backplate. I'll probably just flip the Kraken G10 backplate to the foam sticks out just like someone else here did. Hopefully the screws are long enough.


I don't know if those memory heatsinks will stay or if they are enough, they might just be simple shims to fill the gap between the cooler and memory ICs.

The VRM heatsinks might be plenty fine with the addition of the G10's fan blowing over them.

And as for the G10 backplate on the card's backplate, I don't think you'll have any issue even with the foam facing the card. That's how I installed it on my card, and the cooler has a solid connection with the GPU. Just make sure you twist the thumb-screws enough so pull in the backplate; the foam will compress plenty fine. As the backplate is there, the foam and pads aren't doing anything to prevent actual contact with the PCB, but it does no harm keeping it there either. You're call though. I hadn't even thought of removing the foam, I just installed and went with it.


----------



## devolved

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> The Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duo comes with VRM heatsinks on both sets of VRM. Here's the big one by the PCI-E power plugs.
> 
> 
> 
> And it has heatsinks on the RAM too.
> 
> 
> 
> And a backplate. I'll probably just flip the Kraken G10 backplate to the foam sticks out just like someone else here did. Hopefully the screws are long enough.
> 
> 
> It's going onto a Gigabyte X58A-UD5 Rev 1. It supports the W3600 series so I don't see why is won't support the X5600 series. This guy here has an X58A-UD3R Rev 1 running an X5650 so I'm guessing my wife's board should work.
> 
> I already have the CPU and have tested it on a Gigabyte EX58-UD3R Rev 1.6 for a week without issue. Didn't overclock it though. Even at stock, it's a great chip for video compression. Crunching 720p video gave me a good 40 or 45% increase in performance over the X5550 that was in there.
> 
> The old days of FSB/BCLK are gone and I miss them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *destrekor*
> 
> I don't know if those memory heatsinks will stay or if they are enough, they might just be simple shims to fill the gap between the cooler and memory ICs.
> 
> The VRM heatsinks might be plenty fine with the addition of the G10's fan blowing over them.
> 
> And as for the G10 backplate on the card's backplate, I don't think you'll have any issue even with the foam facing the card. That's how I installed it on my card, and the cooler has a solid connection with the GPU. Just make sure you twist the thumb-screws enough so pull in the backplate; the foam will compress plenty fine. As the backplate is there, the foam and pads aren't doing anything to prevent actual contact with the PCB, but it does no harm keeping it there either. You're call though. I hadn't even thought of removing the foam, I just installed and went with it.


I have these power color 290s, I bought some plasticard and was going to copy the backplate and cut a square hole where the NZXT backplate will sit.

but yeah I dunno what those fillers are on the backside inbetween the card and backplate you've detailed. I guess if it is to cool VRMs on that side I have spare heatsinks, cut holes in the plasticard and have them slightly poking out the top or something, need to get more heatsink tape.

Glad to see someone else with the same graphics card planningfor the G10, I would of uploaded photos myself but have been dealing with my firefox phone which has something like a 1megapixel camera so wasn't ideal.

I have everything set, just still pretty cold where I am so no need to install them yet.

I'll post photos when I attempt something and have access to a better camera.


----------



## Evoly

For those who did ask about the Arctic backplate. The "new" Accelero S3 does feature the same designed backplate and does at least in Germany cost 31€. For me that price is pretty much okay. I would have to pay mroe for copper heatsinks and a that large probably alumic heatsink will perform most likely close to full copper heatsinks attached onto them.

Could you guys assist me in finding a solution for my titan x's?

Here is a picture I found at Anandtech.

http://images.anandtech.com/doci/9059/NVC2142216_8.jpg

It looks at least to me like I could pull off that blower fan and then I could just attach the Kraken G10 on it. (its a black alumic heatsink).

That would safe me some money.

If that wouldn't work, how and where would you place the heatsinks on this VRM?

http://images.anandtech.com/doci/9059/NVC2142216_9.jpg

I'm a bit unsure about utting a "square" heatsink on just two VRM thingys, so that the half of it would just fly in the air. Otherwise a mix with 10 mosfet ones and 5 square ones would be a solution as well. I'll go to sleep now and do some awesome paint tomorrow, to explain my idea.

I really appreciate your help!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> For those who did ask about the Arctic backplate. The "new" Accelero S3 does feature the same designed backplate and does at least in Germany cost 31€. For me that price is pretty much okay. I would have to pay mroe for copper heatsinks and a that large probably alumic heatsink will perform most likely close to full copper heatsinks attached onto them.
> 
> Could you guys assist me in finding a solution for my titan x's?
> 
> Here is a picture I found at Anandtech.
> 
> http://images.anandtech.com/doci/9059/NVC2142216_8.jpg
> 
> It looks at least to me like I could pull off that blower fan and then I could just attach the Kraken G10 on it. (its a black alumic heatsink).
> 
> That would safe me some money.
> 
> If that wouldn't work, how and where would you place the heatsinks on this VRM?
> 
> http://images.anandtech.com/doci/9059/NVC2142216_9.jpg
> 
> I'm a bit unsure about utting a "square" heatsink on just two VRM thingys, so that the half of it would just fly in the air. Otherwise a mix with 10 mosfet ones and 5 square ones would be a solution as well. I'll go to sleep now and do some awesome paint tomorrow, to explain my idea.
> 
> I really appreciate your help!


You are going to have to remove that blowerfan, and that entire baseplate, unless you want to mod it, but that will void your warranty, and I don't recommend doing that.

I think your best solution will be to buy some thermal pads and place aluminum heatsinks on top of the thermal pads. Don't use copper, because it will fall off.

If I'm correct, here are the VRMs circled in yellow.



Before mounting the aluminum heatsinks, you will want to clean the backs of the aluminum heatsinks. First scrape off the included tape, then clean off any excess residue with isopropyl alcohol.

Since this is the Titan X we are talking about, I'm also going to recommend that you buy a more powerful 92mm fan. I personally use the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm Fan. It goes up to a potential 3,000rpm, which is twice that of the stock 92mm fan, and should help keep the VRM temps under control better than the NZXT one. This is the Titan X, lets not take any chances and that means going with some higher end optional accessories. I will also recommend going for a VGA to PWM adapter, so that you can control the 92mm fan. You will want that fan running at 75-100% at all times. It will be controllable in MSI afterburner. Do not set a fan curve, you want it constantly spinning at a high speed.

Lastly, if you want some extra peace of mind, there is this PCI Fan Bracket Mount that I stumbled upon. It allows you to mount two 80/92mm fans, or one 120/140mm fan on the side of your GPU so you get airflow from all angles. It is different from other PCI Fan Brackets in that this one has the fans mounted vertically, and blowing sideways into the GPU instead of the more traditional under and up. Keep in mind that this ships from China, so delivery might be a few weeks.


----------



## Evoly

I did plan to go with a be.quiet silent wings two. Is has just 1800 rpm compared to the ncotua but the m3h is higher. Anyways, I don't get why I should remove that alumic heatsink from the titan since it does fit and transfet the heat from the components. I can still mont the G10. I don't know whats below the blower fan but that would get air aswell.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> I did plan to go with a be.quiet silent wings two. Is has just 1800 rpm compared to the ncotua but the m3h is higher. Anyways, I don't get why I should remove that alumic heatsink from the titan since it does fit and transfet the heat from the components. I can still mont the G10. I don't know whats below the blower fan but that would get air aswell.


The Silent Wings2 is also a good choice, really can't go wrong with it. Just make sure it is spinning at a high speed at all times.

I would absolutely, positively keep that mid plate on if it fits with the G10. From the looks of it, it won't, but I don't have it in front of my, so I can't say for certain. The blower fan is directly over the VRMs.

Any extra airflow does help with VRM cooling. I ghetto rigged a 200mm fan to be blowing from the side into the G10/780, and it dropped VRM temps by 5C after 15min of testing Unigine Heaven.



This is not something I keep permanently, just something I wanted to test out.


----------



## Evoly

Ah well, I see







. The china mod thingy isn't a option for me, since I live in Europe. What makes you think, that the midplate wont work? The holes look lke I could just put the screws through it and pull the G10 down on it. Or is there anything I'm missing?

From these Pictures it does just look like that the G10 does hold on the Asetek cooler and doesn't even touch the PCB or the "heat sink" on the Titan X.

https://www.nzxt.com/uploads/product_images/accessories_krakeng10/980A7616.jpg

http://www.legitreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/KrakenG10-1-645x483.jpg

https://www.nzxt.com/uploads/product_images/accessories_krakeng10/980A7650.jpg


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Ah well, I see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The china mod thingy isn't a option for me, since I live in Europe. What makes you think, that the midplate wont work? The holes look lke I could just put the screws through it and pull the G10 down on it. Or is there anything I'm missing?
> 
> From these Pictures it does just look like that the G10 does hold on the Asetek cooler and doesn't even touch the PCB or the "heat sink" on the Titan X.
> 
> https://www.nzxt.com/uploads/product_images/accessories_krakeng10/980A7616.jpg
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/KrakenG10-1-645x483.jpg
> 
> https://www.nzxt.com/uploads/product_images/accessories_krakeng10/980A7650.jpg


I'm confident that you will be able to get those or similar parts mailed to you via eBay, Alibaba, or some other source.

The reason why I'm skeptical that the mid plate will have to be removed is because it is much thicker than any I have seen before, but the bigger issue is all of the protruding pieces around the edges. I could be wrong, because it's just a picture from one angle, but it looks as if there will be some interference from that mid plate. Even with the fan removed.

Go ahead and try it, I want it to work,and it's in your best interest to keep it attached, I'm just saying based on that picture, it doesn't look like it will fit.


----------



## Evoly

From my understanding the only hight affectng component is the Pump. It is the only thing that does contact with the PCB. If I use long enough screws I should be able to make it. I'll definitly try it and I definitly hope that it will work







. Thanks for your thoughts.


----------



## destrekor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> From my understanding the only hight affectng component is the Pump. It is the only thing that does contact with the PCB. If I use long enough screws I should be able to make it. I'll definitly try it and I definitly hope that it will work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks for your thoughts.


Well, there is a fixed amount of height clearance between the PCB and the bracket that holds the pump and fan to the card.

This image gives you a good side-view of the gap between bracket and card.



A member at Linustechtips, ChrisRK, posted the clearance from PCB to bracket is a shade over 13mm. That's from PCB, which is with what the pump makes contact, not the base plate. I'd measure from PCB to tip of the tallest piece of the base plate and see what you get, that'll give you your answer.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Thank you Destrekor for that link.

@Evoly

Here is a picture your provided, and this is what I am seeing, all of these plastic looking things that protrude from the mid plate, they look to be much longer than 13.6mm, but I could be wrong. I'm going off of a single picture from just one angle.


----------



## Evoly

NZXT did reply and mentioned not to use the base place because it "won't work properly". So, How many / how big heatsinks would you recommend for great overclocking? VRAM heatsink also requierd?

Would they be okay or are they to low profile for reasonable heat dissipation?

http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cooling%20solutions&type_sub=VGA%20Cooler&model=AK-VMC01-BK

After a quick research, this are all heatsinks I could find in my country:

Alumic - Black 13 x 13 x 4mm
Alumic - Silver 14 x 13 x 6,5mm
Alumic - Black 15 x 15 x 15mm
Alumic - Silver 20 x 14 x 6mm
Alumic - Black 7 x 7 x 14mm
Copper - Copper 12 x 13 x 4mm
Copper - Copper 17 x 12 x 5mm
Copper - Copper 10 x 10 x 14mm
Copper - Black 8 x 8 x XXmm (~same as a PCI motherboard slot)
Copper - Copper 14 x 14 x 14mm
Copper - Copper 6,5 x 6,5 x 12mm
Copper - Copper 14 x 14 x 9mm


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Evoly

VRAM you dont need to worry about.

VRMs, those ones you linked will work well. I recommend buying some thermal pads to go with them. Scrape off the included tape, clean bottom with isopropyl alcohol and place on top of thermal pads on the VRMs that I highlighted in one of my earlier pictures.


----------



## Evoly

Why would you choose thermal pads over thermal tape? Could you recommend some? I actually didn't know that you could "mount" something to thermal pads. I just know them from the stock coolers and they just fly arround by demounting the cooler







.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBoom*
> 
> I had to put a few VRM heatsinks on the underside of my 970. The card already has a few heatsinks directly on top of the VRMs on the front. Even then the VRM temperature hits a max of 92c in Dying Light. I have a NZXT Sentry 3 so I hooked up the temperature probe to directly under VRM heatsinks and I'd say its pretty accurate to a degree of 1-2C. For now I don't have many issues except with the same memory OC I get artifacts so I had to tone down the OC. The 90mm fan helps quite a bit, I'm sure I'd be easily hitting over 100c without it.
> 
> Since you have the 7 series cards I'd imagine they will run even hotter and it's going to be much easier to fry those VRMs.
> 
> I also had a MSI 760 Hawk (stock cooler) which I had to RMA thrice just for running Furmark and Valley.


Whoa whoa whoa, you fried your GTX 760 Hawk for runninf Furmark? I thought the card had like friggin' overbuilt VRM systems? How much TDP % did you hit in Furmark? Since I'm hitting 80% on the LN2 BIOS with a 1.3V overvolt and a 1345MHz core OC with the 100% being 275W so I really don't wanna fry my card too. Also I've been running Valley all the time for the stability tests I do and it doesn't seem to hurt my card at all so I think it's just Furmark that fried yours.


----------



## snakcaz

Sorry if this is aside from the current topic at hand, but I do need help with possibly a new AIO pump for the NZXT Kraken G10 bracket?

I'll keep it short. I have a Diamond Radeon R9 280X. I am using the G10 combined with a refurbished Antec Kuhler H20 620.
I used Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0 to stress the gpu, and temperatures are still very high (87 celcius with just 1 4:30min benchmark)

I reseated and re-applied thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5) as well as double checked cable wirings. Pump is connected directly to the PSU, Fan is connected on the CPU_FAN Mobo header.

I am certain that the pump is simply a bad one (it is refurbished). It is also a common problem from Antec Kuhler 620 owners that they have a lot of trouble with it.

Any suggestions on some solutions? Any good AIO liquid cooling pumps that work well for anyone else with the G10 bracket?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Whoa whoa whoa, you fried your GTX 760 Hawk for runninf Furmark? I thought the card had like friggin' overbuilt VRM systems? How much TDP % did you hit in Furmark? Since I'm hitting 80% on the LN2 BIOS with a 1.3V overvolt and a 1345MHz core OC with the 100% being 275W so I really don't wanna fry my card too. Also I've been running Valley all the time for the stability tests I do and it doesn't seem to hurt my card at all so I think it's just Furmark that fried yours.


Furmark also bricked my stock MSI 770 Lightning. Its a dangerous program that should never be used.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Why would you choose thermal pads over thermal tape? Could you recommend some? I actually didn't know that you could "mount" something to thermal pads. I just know them from the stock coolers and they just fly arround by demounting the cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


For your card, I chose pads over tape because you have a naked card, and will be mounting directly onto the circuitry instead of on a midplate. I have also heard of one instance of someone using tape which melted and broke the card. It could be because he used a bad tape, I dunno, I would avoid it and use pads. Im not sure what brand is available in your region if you could link some and i'll give my input. It needs to be double sided adhesive thermal pads.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@snakcaz

Refurbished AIOs are always risky, especially one with a propensity for pump failures. One commonissue that people have when temps are too high when everything is plugged in correctly is that sometimes there isn't enough pressure. Before investing in a new AIO, make sure that you have it screwed down tight enough. Not so much that it is causing flexion or bending of the PCB, but enough pressure just before that bend/flex occurs.

If that still doesn't work, try to return the AIO if its within the return period. If not, the H55 is generally the lowest cost option that provides the best performance.


----------



## Evoly

Since I order my heatsinks and some cables (Audio Y splitter, sleeved USB to USB, black fan screws) here, I could add some of these pads: http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Thermal-Paste-%26-Pads/

Otherwise I could also use arctic ones. They ship 30 of them with there Accelero S3. I just don't know if they are double sided or if I have to use them for the backside of the card to space the backplate from the components. I didn't read there manual 100% now since I'm actually playing with some numbers in terms of cash. But if you are curios:

http://www.arctic.ac/de_en/accelero-s3.html

I can just repeat myself. Freaking thanks for your time and input.

Would you actually recommend to cut the heatsinks in half to cover the 1x sized VRM chips? (There are sometimes two next to each other in terms of widths, so I can put one heatsink on two. But if I put one heatsink on 1 chip it will "hand over" on the opposit site and may contact the PCB or something else.)


----------



## Deses

Hello all!

I recently came to my attention that the Kraken G10 was a thing and I'm about to buy one to pair it with a Zalman LQ320 to cool my Asus Radeon R9 280X DirectCU II TOP.

I've seen many reviews and videos trying to figure this out, but there is one thing that still puzzles me, and man, no one explained it!

Where do I connect the pump header and the fan header? I have two motherboard fan headers available, but I thought that I needed to connect the two headers into the GPU fan header using a Y splitter. If it's not needed, what do I connect to the GPU and what to the motherboard (An Asus Maximus Hero VI)?

Thanks!

Edit: What do you think of the Zalman LQ320 AIO? I still have to buy it, but I think it's a pretty solid cooler and one of the few that fits in a 120mm fan slot. The rear fan slot of the BitFenix Ghost only allows 120mm fans.









Another edit: I searched for pictures of the PCB of my card and looks like it's using a custom 5-pin header. What sould I do?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Since I order my heatsinks and some cables (Audio Y splitter, sleeved USB to USB, black fan screws) here, I could add some of these pads: http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Thermal-Paste-%26-Pads/
> 
> Otherwise I could also use arctic ones. They ship 30 of them with there Accelero S3. I just don't know if they are double sided or if I have to use them for the backside of the card to space the backplate from the components. I didn't read there manual 100% now since I'm actually playing with some numbers in terms of cash. But if you are curios:
> 
> http://www.arctic.ac/de_en/accelero-s3.html
> 
> I can just repeat myself. Freaking thanks for your time and input.
> 
> Would you actually recommend to cut the heatsinks in half to cover the 1x sized VRM chips? (There are sometimes two next to each other in terms of widths, so I can put one heatsink on two. But if I put one heatsink on 1 chip it will "hand over" on the opposit site and may contact the PCB or something else.)


I am looking on the moddiy website, and not having much luck. I have emailed one company asking if their product is double sided, so I will respond back as soon as they do. You don't need to use them with the backplate, just on the VRMs.

You want it to look something like this:


Then you mount the heatsinks on top of those pads. I would try and use one heatsink per VRM, even if you have to space them out irregularly, but try and get them as over center as possible. You don't have to cut the heatsinks in half, and I imagine that will be difficult without the right tools, so leave them as they come. Just make sure to remove the included thermal adhesive that comes pre-applied to the heatsink. Then clean the bottom of the heatsinks very well so there is no residue left over.

The only two adhesives that I am seeing on moddiy that might work are the Laid Tflex 700 Series which is very expensive, and it sounds to me like it is very messy. It sounds like it is more like formed thermal compound than a thermal pad.

The other one I am looking at is the ATI Original Thermal "Tape" I have already emailed them asking if it is double sided. Hopefully it is. If it is, then that is the one you should get from that website.

Is there no other website you can use to order from? eBay does a good job of shipping international for cheap. Most times it comes from China, and the shipping is already factored in. I have ordered many items from eBay that came from China and it worked well. If not, are there any other websites you could use?

I'm happy to help! I'm also really excited to see how a Titan performs when cooled via the G10. I just want to make sure you are doing it safely, because it is one of the more power hungry cards we have seen in recently months.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> I recently came to my attention that the Kraken G10 was a thing and I'm about to buy one to pair it with a Zalman LQ320 to cool my Asus Radeon R9 280X DirectCU II TOP.
> 
> I've seen many reviews and videos trying to figure this out, but there is one thing that still puzzles me, and man, no one explained it!
> 
> Where do I connect the pump header and the fan header? I have two motherboard fan headers available, but I thought that I needed to connect the two headers into the GPU fan header using a Y splitter. If it's not needed, what do I connect to the GPU and what to the motherboard (An Asus Maximus Hero VI)?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Edit: What do you think of the Zalman LQ320 AIO? I still have to buy it, but I think it's a pretty solid cooler and one of the few that fits in a 120mm fan slot. The rear fan slot of the BitFenix Ghost only allows 120mm fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another edit: I searched for pictures of the PCB of my card and looks like it's using a custom 5-pin header. What sould I do?


I would go for a Corsair H55 instead of the Zalman. Its the same 120mm, and not as prone to pump failure which the Zalmans apparently are. You should also look into adding a 2nd 120mm fan if room and budget allows.

Is this the PCB of your GPU?


If it is, thats a good looking card with heatsinks already on the VRMs.

For plugging the pump and fan(s): There are a few ways to go about this, but I'm going to mention the most common and most recommended. Also, if you end up buying a 2nd 120mm fan, you will need to buy a 3 or 4pin Y-Splitter for the radiator fans. If not going with two fans, then no Y splitter is needed.

With the pump you have two options. You can either plug it into the motherboard, and then set that motherboard fan header to 100% on RPM mode. Or you can use a Molex to 3pin adapter and plug the pump directly into the PSU. Either way you choose, you want the pump to be running at or near full speed.

For the radiator fan, I will recommend you have it plugged into a motherboard fan header, this will give you the greatest amount of control. If you buy a 2nd 120mm fan, this is where the Y splitter comes in handy. You will plug both 120mm radiator fans into the Y splitter, then use the Y splitter on the motherboard fan header, giving you control over both radiator fans so you can fine tune the noiseerformance you want.

Lastly, the 92mm fan. What I strongly recommend is buying a VGA to PWM Adapter. This allows you to plug the 92mm fan into the GPU. In that picture above on the lower right hand side, you will see kind of a beige looking fan header. It is a special header, which is why you need that adapter. You plug that adapter in, then plug the 92mm fan into that adapter. You will then control the 92mm fan through MSI afterburner. Do not set up a fan curve. You want this fan to be running at or near 100% at all times. It is very important to have this fan running at full speed.

If you don't want to buy that adapter, you can plug it into the PSU via molex to 3pin adapter. Or you can find another open motherboard fan header, and have it run at 100% at all times in Fan Xpert.


----------



## Evoly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> I recently came to my attention that the Kraken G10 was a thing and I'm about to buy one to pair it with a Zalman LQ320 to cool my Asus Radeon R9 280X DirectCU II TOP.
> 
> I've seen many reviews and videos trying to figure this out, but there is one thing that still puzzles me, and man, no one explained it!
> 
> Where do I connect the pump header and the fan header? I have two motherboard fan headers available, but I thought that I needed to connect the two headers into the GPU fan header using a Y splitter. If it's not needed, what do I connect to the GPU and what to the motherboard (An Asus Maximus Hero VI)?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Edit: What do you think of the Zalman LQ320 AIO? I still have to buy it, but I think it's a pretty solid cooler and one of the few that fits in a 120mm fan slot. The rear fan slot of the BitFenix Ghost only allows 120mm fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another edit: I searched for pictures of the PCB of my card and looks like it's using a custom 5-pin header. What sould I do?


I can just speak for the Kraken X41 / 61 series. On the 61 you need 1 fan header, 1 usb header and 1 sata header and for the 41/31 you need 1 usb header (of 2.0) and 1 fan header.


----------



## Deses

Boah! So much stuff to take into consideration! Thank goodness I asked... Thanks Pinko!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I would go for a Corsair H55 instead of the Zalman. Its the same 120mm, and not as prone to pump failure which the Zalmans apparently are. You should also look into adding a 2nd 120mm fan if room and budget allows.


What I want most is silence, so I followed the advice from FrostyTech. But seeing that the H50 is also very silent I'll consider it. Is the extra fan a must? I'm scared that 2 radiator fans + the pump + the 92mm fan at 100% will be too noisy. Where did you see that the Zalmans have poor pumps?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Is this the PCB of your GPU?


Yes! The included VRMs heatsinks are a pretty awesome feature.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> For plugging the pump and fan(s): There are a few ways to go about this, but I'm going to mention the most common and most recommended. Also, if you end up buying a 2nd 120mm fan, you will need to buy a 3 or 4pin Y-Splitter for the radiator fans. If not going with two fans, then no Y splitter is needed.
> 
> With the pump you have two options. You can either plug it into the motherboard, and then set that motherboard fan header to 100% on RPM mode. Or you can use a Molex to 3pin adapter and plug the pump directly into the PSU. Either way you choose, you want the pump to be running at or near full speed.
> 
> For the radiator fan, I will recommend you have it plugged into a motherboard fan header, this will give you the greatest amount of control. If you buy a 2nd 120mm fan, this is where the Y splitter comes in handy. You will plug both 120mm radiator fans into the Y splitter, then use the Y splitter on the motherboard fan header, giving you control over both radiator fans so you can fine tune the noiseerformance you want.
> 
> Lastly, the 92mm fan. What I strongly recommend is buying a VGA to PWM Adapter. This allows you to plug the 92mm fan into the GPU. In that picture above on the lower right hand side, you will see kind of a beige looking fan header. It is a special header, which is why you need that adapter. You plug that adapter in, then plug the 92mm fan into that adapter. You will then control the 92mm fan through MSI afterburner. Do not set up a fan curve. You want this fan to be running at or near 100% at all times. It is very important to have this fan running at full speed.
> 
> If you don't want to buy that adapter, you can plug it into the PSU via molex to 3pin adapter. Or you can find another open motherboard fan header, and have it run at 100% at all times in Fan Xpert.


That's an incredibly useful information that's far too easy to get wrong and almost no installation guide mentions. Thank you.

I'll plug the radiator fans and the pump to the motherboard and the 92mm fan to the GPU as you said. That leaves me wondering how I should arrange the headers if I ever want to use another AIO for the CPU... Well, I guess that if I ever want to go that route I may as well do a custom loop.









A couple of questions more:
- Should I add heatsinks to the VRAM modules surrounding the GPU?
- How noisy will be the pump and the 92mm fan at 100%?
- Do you see the Kraken G10 being future proof? I mean... can I expect to use it with a GTX 1280Ti (Heh, I hope nVidia keeps that naming scheme by 2018).

Thank you for your patience!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> Boah! So much stuff to take into consideration! Thank goodness I asked... Thanks Pinko!
> What I want most is silence, so I followed the advice from FrostyTech. But seeing that the H50 is also very silent I'll consider it. Is the extra fan a must? I'm scared that 2 radiator fans + the pump + the 92mm fan at 100% will be too noisy.
> Yes! The included VRMs heatsinks are a pretty awesome feature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's an incredibly useful information that's far too easy to get wrong and almost no installation guide mentions. Thank you.
> 
> I'll plug the radiator fans and the pump to the motherboard and the 92mm fan to the GPU as you said. That leaves me wondering how I should arrange the headers if I ever want to use another AIO for the CPU... Well, I guess that if I ever want to go that route I may as well do a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of questions more:
> - Should I add heatsinks to the VRAM modules surrounding the GPU?
> - How noisy will be the pump and the 92mm fan at 100%?
> - Do you see the Kraken G10 being future proof? I mean... can I expect to use it with a GTX 1280Ti (Heh, I hope nVidia keeps that naming scheme by 2018).
> 
> Thank you for your patience!


Yea, they really don't give enough information for installation, in my opinion. At least outside of the basics, because there are a lot of nuances to this product.

You do not need to add heatsinks to the VRAM.

You want an H55, not H50. The H50 has two different models, and both are not compatible, so just go for the H55.

An extra fan is not a must, but it definitely helps, especially if you are going for silence. It allows you to run both fans at a lower speed(less noise) while getting the same performance as one fan at a higher speed. Also, if you wanted to go balls out for best performance, having two fans in push/pull does help with temperatures. Set these fans as rear exhaust. You can buy a PWM Y-Splitter so that you only take up one motherboard fan header. For a 2nd 120mm fan, there are many good ones, I am privy to the Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm personally. Inexpensive, and great static pressure even at low RPMs. I have two running at 1200rpm(50%) on my GPU's radiator. I have also heard that Rosewill Hyperborea 120mms are excellent. There are really so many fans to choose from. You could also check out thermalbench.com for some of the very best reviews, especially fan testing.

The 92mm fan is not loud at all, even at max RPM. That fan MUST be at 100% speed at all times. You could buy that VGA to PWM adapter that I recommended, or you can use one of the Molex or SATA adapters I will link below.

The pump will hopefully not be too loud. I have no personal experience with the H55, but most people don't complain about it much. Chances are you won't hear it over the rest of your system. I recommend that you plug the pump into your PSU. This way, the pump is running at full speed at all times, and it frees up a valuable motherboard fan header. If you don't already have a molex to 3pin adapter, you should buy one. They are very inexpensive. You could even buy a molex to double 3pin adapter. Will be helpful if you end up going with a 2nd AIO in the future. You could even power the pump(s) off of SATA with an adapter.

If you ever wanted to go dual AIO, which is what I have done, and a lot of others are also doing because of the low cost and big performance, you will just plug the second AIO's pump into the PSU also. Then with your other free motherboard header, you can use a Y splitter for those fan(s). Thats how I have mine. One fan header does my G10 radiator fans, then another fan header does my CPU's radiator fans. Both use Y Splitters. I then control them in Fan Xpert. You won't be able to set a fan curve for the GPU, because Fan Xpert doesn't monitor GPU loads, inexplicably, so I just use RPM mode, and I have no need to change it from 1250rpm even when I'm idling it is quiet.

I am hopeful that the G10 will be fairly future proof. I don't see why I wouldn't be unless there is a massive change in how GPUs are designed. You can currently go back many generations, I think even as far as the 500/5000 series and the G10 still works, on both AMD and Nvidia, so it works across brands. Also, when people upgraded from 700 to 900 series, they were able to move their G10s over easily. I can't say for certain, but it is a fairly "universal" design, so I am very hopeful that it will work on GPUs, at least for the next few years.


----------



## Evoly

After some more research I found this:

http://www.phobya.com/en/products/Kuehler_Waermeleitpads.php

You could just search for phobya's pads. They are non conductive but doesn't seem to have glue on them.

The others are by "AKASA".

http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cooling%20solutions&type_sub=Thermal%20Interface&model=AK-TT12-80 (they have 100% glue on them)

http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cooling%20solutions&type_sub=Thermal%20Interface&model=AK-TT300 (I don't know if they have glue on them)

I actually never found such tapes again. I know that the cards come eighter with them on it or with those little pads that can fall off but I never did hear that they can hold heatsinks on them.

An additional question.

If the tape is non conductive, would it be "okay" if it does make contact with the silver contacts as mentioned on this picture?

http://i.imgur.com/yxBY95V.jpg

I would feel way safer if something non conductive does cover them from letting the alumic heatsink touch them and shorten my card.

Edit: this one looks like something that could work: http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p946_Alphacool-W-rmeleitklebepad-doppelseitig-100x100x0-5mm.html


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> I can just speak for the Kraken X41 / 61 series. On the 61 you need 1 fan header, 1 usb header and 1 sata header and for the 41/31 you need 1 usb header (of 2.0) and 1 fan header.


Definitely buy the last one you linked:

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p946_Alphacool-W-rmeleitklebepad-doppelseitig-100x100x0-5mm.html

Nice large sheet so you can cut it down and still have some leftover. It is also a good thickness, and adhesive on both sides. The aluminum heatsinks that you showed me are very light, so the adhesive will be able to hold them. When mounting the heatsinks give each one a decent thumb press to make sure it is sticking well. Not too strong though, use your judgement.

What you should do before mounting everything into your chassis: When you have the thermal pads in place, and the heatsinks on top of the thermal pads. Let it sit for about an hour or two to give the adhesive time to really adhere. Remember, when this is mounted inside your case, the heatsinks will be upside down.

Those alphacool pads you found look perfect, doubled sided with plenty of adhesion, and electrically non-conductive. Everything we were looking for, nice find!


----------



## Deses

Amazing, thank you for clarifying things up! NZXT should give you something nice, you are being an amazing PR.









Another question jump me while I was checking inside my case: Could I use rubber "screws" to attach the radiator to the case? I don't think it will be a good idea, but I want to ask anyway.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> Amazing, thank you for clarifying things up! NZXT should give you something nice, you are being an amazing PR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question jump me while I was checking inside my case: Could I use rubber "screws" to attach the radiator to the case? I don't think it will be a good idea, but I want to ask anyway.


I don't think rubber screws for a radiator will work. #1 mounting it will be insanely difficult, heck I have trouble mounting fans with the rubber screws, and #2, the weight of a radiator needs to be screwed down.


----------



## Evoly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Definitely buy the last one you linked:
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p946_Alphacool-W-rmeleitklebepad-doppelseitig-100x100x0-5mm.html
> 
> Nice large sheet so you can cut it down and still have some leftover. It is also a good thickness, and adhesive on both sides. The aluminum heatsinks that you showed me are very light, so the adhesive will be able to hold them. When mounting the heatsinks give each one a decent thumb press to make sure it is sticking well. Not too strong though, use your judgement.
> 
> What you should do before mounting everything into your chassis: When you have the thermal pads in place, and the heatsinks on top of the thermal pads. Let it sit for about an hour or two to give the adhesive time to really adhere. Remember, when this is mounted inside your case, the heatsinks will be upside down.
> 
> Those alphacool pads you found look perfect, doubled sided with plenty of adhesion, and electrically non-conductive. Everything we were looking for, nice find!


Thanks a freaking lot for your support. Just to be 100% sure I have one additional questions:

1) Since the pad is non conductive I can place them on the red spots here:

http://i.imgur.com/yxBY95V.jpg (I didn't mark VRM 2)

and let them make contact with the PCB without beeing scarred?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Thanks a freaking lot for your support. Just to be 100% sure I have one additional questions:
> 
> 1) Since the pad is non conductive I can place them on the red spots here:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/yxBY95V.jpg (I didn't mark VRM 2)
> 
> and let them make contact with the PCB without beeing scarred?


Yes


----------



## snakcaz

I'll go ahead and buy the corsair h55, and see what happens. If it fails, i will return it. I'll post my results when i test it and it comes! Thanks @PinkoTheCommi

Also, i see someone on craigslist selling a corsair h90 for $70. I can probably haggle the price to $55 or $60. Should i go for that instead?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snakcaz*
> 
> I'll go ahead and buy the corsair h55, and see what happens. If it fails, i will return it. I'll post my results when i test it and it comes! Thanks @PinkoTheCommi
> 
> Also, i see someone on craigslist selling a corsair h90 for $70. I can probably haggle the price to $55 or $60. Should i go for that instead?


I would be wary of an AIO through craigslist.

An H55 will do.


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snakcaz*
> 
> I'll go ahead and buy the corsair h55, and see what happens. If it fails, i will return it. I'll post my results when i test it and it comes! Thanks @PinkoTheCommi
> 
> Also, i see someone on craigslist selling a corsair h90 for $70. I can probably haggle the price to $55 or $60. Should i go for that instead?


The h55 has a 120mm radiator vs the 140mm of the h90. You would probably see a few degrees of temperature difference between the two at most. Just make sure your case can fit a 140mm radiator and fan if you go for the h90.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Hey Pinko,

Thanks for all the help you are giving the community and doing on this topic. Much appreciated.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Hey Pinko,
> 
> Thanks for all the help you are giving the community and doing on this topic. Much appreciated.


Happy to help, be sure to give @geggeg some love too. He has done a tremendous amount of work also.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Happy to help, be sure to give @geggeg some love too. He has done a tremendous amount of work also.


I tell him ty all the time too.. But thanks Geggeg


----------



## VSG

Oh you guys! I haven't done anything really compared to Pinko helping people all over the world from the looks of it.


----------



## hugobosslives

I'm guessing that if i get fairly average temps (40C normal windows and then in games slightly higher boost than air but still hitting the 82C limit i set in afterburner) that i maybe haven't screwed it on tight enough or the paste is not done right?

course of action to take it off and redo it?

(GTX 770 with G10+H75)


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hugobosslives*
> 
> I'm guessing that if i get fairly average temps (40C normal windows and then in games slightly higher boost than air but still hitting the 82C limit i set in afterburner) that i maybe haven't screwed it on tight enough or the paste is not done right?
> 
> course of action to take it off and redo it?
> 
> (GTX 770 with G10+H75)


Redo it. The paste might now be on right due to the high temps for that card.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hugobosslives*
> 
> I'm guessing that if i get fairly average temps (40C normal windows and then in games slightly higher boost than air but still hitting the 82C limit i set in afterburner) that i maybe haven't screwed it on tight enough or the paste is not done right?
> 
> course of action to take it off and redo it?
> 
> (GTX 770 with G10+H75)


Which model of 770? If it is the EVGA GTX770 SC, you might need a copper shim and no amount of tightening will overcome that gap.

If it is not the EVGA GTX SC then I would make sure that it is tightened properly. Not too much that it is bending the card, but enough mounting pressure just before that bend occurs.

Paste only does a few degrees, you should be getting 20-30C lower temperatures which leads me to believe it is not a paste issue.


----------



## hugobosslives

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Which model of 770? If it is the EVGA GTX770 SC, you might need a copper shim and no amount of tightening will overcome that gap.
> 
> If it is not the EVGA GTX SC then I would make sure that it is tightened properly. Not too much that it is bending the card, but enough mounting pressure just before that bend occurs.
> 
> Paste only does a few degrees, you should be getting 20-30C lower temperatures which leads me to believe it is not a paste issue.


MSI Twin Frozr 2GB mate. I didn't tighten it massively just until the screws needed significantly more torque. The only thing that I can think of would be this isn't tight enough?


----------



## cravinmild

quick test to see if its mounted tight is to use your finger and put more pressure on the pump while your temps are high. You should see a instant decrease in temps if its a lose mount. You would be surprised at how little pressure it takes to make good contact, also how easy it is to over tighten ... which is what most do and can have an affect on your temps as much as a loose mount.

I have also found from experience that using the "dot and press to spread" method of TIM applications (on a gpu) can cause thermal paste to leave the centre of the die leaving a pocket/void of thermal paste in that spot. These instances you would have spikes in temp and not the gradual increase you normally get when a component heats up.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hugobosslives*
> 
> MSI Twin Frozr 2GB mate. I didn't tighten it massively just until the screws needed significantly more torque. The only thing that I can think of would be this isn't tight enough?


Yea, you won't have an issue with needing a copper shim with that card.

Try tightening it more, and do what the guy above me recommended, press your thumb down on the pump while its under load, hold it, and see if temps decrease. Also make sure that your pump is running at full speed.


----------



## hugobosslives

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> quick test to see if its mounted tight is to use your finger and put more pressure on the pump while your temps are high. You should see a instant decrease in temps if its a lose mount.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yea, you won't have an issue with needing a copper shim with that card.
> 
> Try tightening it more, and do what the guy above me recommended, press your thumb down on the pump while its under load, hold it, and see if temps decrease. Also make sure that your pump is running at full speed.


wow. okay so I just tried pressing the pump with my finger. It was running furmark at 82C before. then upon pressing it dropped to 75C almost instantly. so from this I can leave the paste and just tighten it?

Thanks for the help. Seems such a simple test. Dunno why i didn't think of it haha

EDIT: pump is at 100%


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hugobosslives*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> quick test to see if its mounted tight is to use your finger and put more pressure on the pump while your temps are high. You should see a instant decrease in temps if its a lose mount.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yea, you won't have an issue with needing a copper shim with that card.
> 
> Try tightening it more, and do what the guy above me recommended, press your thumb down on the pump while its under load, hold it, and see if temps decrease. Also make sure that your pump is running at full speed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> wow. okay so I just tried pressing the pump with my finger. It was running furmark at 82C before. then upon pressing it dropped to 75C almost instantly. so from this I can leave the paste and just tighten it?
> 
> Thanks for the help. Seems such a simple test. Dunno why i didn't think of it haha
> 
> EDIT: pump is at 100%
Click to expand...

I would say you should be good to go with just adding some more pressure, seems it was just a lose mount







gotta love the easy fixes lol. Few years back we started using this test vs ripping everything apart, cant remember who originally thought of it but sure made things simple


----------



## Bravoexo

Don't the rubber gasket at the bottom of the G10's thumbscrews deform and start to squeeze out when it's tightened just about right?


----------



## cravinmild

I'm not sure. Never us d the product but it's suggested when using other methods to attach a pump and using metal screws that rubber washers are placed to help even out pressure, helps prevent over tightening as you mentioned as you see the washer deform. I've always used the stock spring screws which came with the card. It's almost impossible to over tighten and gives perfect pressure


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

Hi everyone! I'm the happy new owner of a used G10 + H55 on an R9 290. It seems to work really well. I was wondering if anyone controls the radiator fan with the GPU's fan header. That would make more sense to me than having it follow the CPU or run full blast all the time.


----------



## Vendari

I modded an SP120 and an old gpu fan thingy so i could attach it to my gpu's header...


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> Hi everyone! I'm the happy new owner of a used G10 + H55 on an R9 290. It seems to work really well. I was wondering if anyone controls the radiator fan with the GPU's fan header. That would make more sense to me than having it follow the CPU or run full blast all the time.


My cards fan slot was blocked by the G10 itself. So I connected the radiator fan to a fan controller instead. It runs at 40% on idle and 70% on load and never goes above 60c.


----------



## Deses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> Hi everyone! I'm the happy new owner of a used G10 + H55 on an R9 290. It seems to work really well. I was wondering if anyone controls the radiator fan with the GPU's fan header. That would make more sense to me than having it follow the CPU or run full blast all the time.


I'll do that when I receive the adaptor cable. So far I have received the aio and the G10, but I still need the molex to 3 pin for the pump and 92mm fan, a pwm splitter and the gpu to pwm adaptor.







Can't wait to get them.


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

Good ideas!

If I get excited I'm going to try and splice the pump and VRM fan into the PEG power connectors. That and changing the fan connector will make it a whole lot cleaner.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> Hi everyone! I'm the happy new owner of a used G10 + H55 on an R9 290. It seems to work really well. I was wondering if anyone controls the radiator fan with the GPU's fan header. That would make more sense to me than having it follow the CPU or run full blast all the time.


I generally recommend buying a VGA to PWM adapter, but so that you can plug the 92mm fan into the GPU. You want the 92mm fan to be running at full speed at all times, whereas the radiator fan you want to be able to control. The problem with trying to control a radiator fan off of your GPU(MSI Afterburner) is that the temperatures are so low. Its easier to control your radiator fan through a mobo fan header or fan controller, then set the 92mm fan to full speed.

You could really do it any way you like, just make sure the 92mm fan is at full speed at all times.


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

That was my plan (VRM 1 temps max out around 90 on Furmark). I'm using Trixx and can set a custom fan curve to say, max out at 60 instead of 95 on the radiator.

Is there a similar adapter to this that isn't 12 freaking bucks?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718002


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> That was my plan (VRM 1 temps max out around 90 on Furmark). I'm using Trixx and can set a custom fan curve to say, max out at 60 instead of 95 on the radiator.
> 
> Is there a similar adapter to this that isn't 12 freaking bucks?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718002


It's half the price on amazon.


----------



## TheBoom

Can anyone help me explain this :

I have a Zotac 970 vanilla attached to a NZXT G10 mount for watercooling. I've edited the bios to increase power as well as set a higher base clock of 1506 and fixed mem clock of 3900. My card's voltage is hard locked by Zotac so I've set it to the max possible 1.212v. Also I've increased both the default and max values of the power so that the card draws more power at the same 100% power limit. This link will help explain if you don't know what I mean.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1522651/disable-boost-and-bake-in-max-game-stable-clocks-for-maxwell-ii

I've noticed that if I run Valley without AA on the card starts to go over 100% TDP in some scenes and this causes the core to start throttling down. However this doesn't happen with 8XAA on (Extreme HD preset).

So I modded the bios to further increase the power (increased both the default and max again) and then it stopped doing that. TDP still jumps to 90% in the same scenes but there is no throttling now.

However in AC Unity, when I navigate to the character customization screen the TDP again starts going over 100% and the core starts to throttle down again. Whats weird is that when that happens my VRM temps start reaching >90c as well. I have my fan controller's probe attached to the VRM heatsink so that is how I monitor the VRM temps. So I reverted to the older custom bios and the VRMs don't go over 90c.

The way I see it, there's something weird going on with the card when there is no AA involved in rendering. Which baffles me since there would be less load with AA off and the card should not be seeking even more power in that case. Another weird thing is that core temps always drop in this scenario.

Another thing is that when I use the modded bios (further increased power limits) my score in 3dmark firestrike actually goes down by about 200 points. Even though the card is now not throttling compared to with the previous bios. Which means the card was scoring higher while throttling.

Does anyone have any clue on what's going on?


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> It's half the price on amazon.


Link?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criminal*
> 
> Link?


http://www.amazon.com/GELID-Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA/ref=pd_sim_pc_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BXY7TZSRM2543W4D3M5

5.99 free shipping


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> That was my plan (VRM 1 temps max out around 90 on Furmark). I'm using Trixx and can set a custom fan curve to say, max out at 60 instead of 95 on the radiator.
> 
> Is there a similar adapter to this that isn't 12 freaking bucks?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718002


http://www.amazon.com/GELID-Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA

$6.

Don't ever run Furmark. It is a dangerous program with the potential to brick your card.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@TheBoom

I haven't a clue man, that is all kinds of backwards.

Could you please provide a link to the picture of your card's PCB? Are your VRMs on the left or right of the GPU Die? If it is on the left side, we need to do something to get airflow over the VRMs.


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> That was my plan (VRM 1 temps max out around 90 on Furmark). I'm using Trixx and can set a custom fan curve to say, max out at 60 instead of 95 on the radiator.
> 
> Is there a similar adapter to this that isn't 12 freaking bucks?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718002
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/GELID-Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA
> 
> $6.
> 
> Don't ever run Furmark. It is a dangerous program with the potential to brick your card.
Click to expand...

You mean pushing 250 amps through the PCB is a bad thing?









But yes, I was just using it for 5 minutes at a time to qualify all the temps.


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/GELID-Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA/ref=pd_sim_pc_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BXY7TZSRM2543W4D3M5
> 
> 5.99 free shipping


Perfect! Thanks


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> You mean pushing 250 amps through the PCB is a bad thing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yes, I was just using it for 5 minutes at a time to qualify all the temps.


Thats all it takes man. I had a brand new GTX 770 Lightning. Used it for 2 weeks to break it in, as I do with all of my components before an overclock. Worked perfectly fine, nothing wrong with it. I wanted to get a baseline for performance and temps so I ran Furmark. Not knowing what I know now, I should have never run that program. It took all of 3 minutes to break my card.

Furmark is not to be used. Use Unigine Heaven/Valley/Ingame benchmark.


----------



## Deses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I generally recommend buying a VGA to PWM adapter, but so that you can plug the 92mm fan into the GPU. You want the 92mm fan to be running at full speed at all times, whereas the radiator fan you want to be able to control. The problem with trying to control a radiator fan off of your GPU(MSI Afterburner) is that the temperatures are so low. Its easier to control your radiator fan through a mobo fan header or fan controller, then set the 92mm fan to full speed.
> 
> You could really do it any way you like, just make sure the 92mm fan is at full speed at all times.


If the 92mm fan has to be at 100% always, Isn't it easier to plug it to a molex connector? That way I can use the GPU header to plug the rad fans and set a curve in MSI Afterburner.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> If the 92mm fan has to be at 100% always, Isn't it easier to plug it to a molex connector? That way I can use the GPU header to plug the rad fans and set a curve in MSI Afterburner.


Yea, you could do that.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I generally recommend buying a VGA to PWM adapter, but so that you can plug the 92mm fan into the GPU. You want the 92mm fan to be running at full speed at all times, whereas the radiator fan you want to be able to control. The problem with trying to control a radiator fan off of your GPU(MSI Afterburner) is that the temperatures are so low. Its easier to control your radiator fan through a mobo fan header or fan controller, then set the 92mm fan to full speed.
> 
> You could really do it any way you like, just make sure the 92mm fan is at full speed at all times.
> 
> 
> 
> If the 92mm fan has to be at 100% always, Isn't it easier to plug it to a molex connector? That way I can use the GPU header to plug the rad fans and set a curve in MSI Afterburner.
Click to expand...

I would not suggest running your rad fans off the gpu header. That gpu fan header was not designed for one full size 120mm or larger fan let alone two of them. Rad fans off the aio fan headers if it has that feature or mobo header or fan controller.


----------



## TheBoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @TheBoom
> 
> I haven't a clue man, that is all kinds of backwards.
> 
> Could you please provide a link to the picture of your card's PCB? Are your VRMs on the left or right of the GPU Die? If it is on the left side, we need to do something to get airflow over the VRMs.


Yeah I've done that from the start. Rigged the NZXT 90mm fan itself to the pci slot directly under the VRMs as well as added a few heatsinks on the underside (top side when mounted) of the card.

It is all kind of backwards which is why I'm baffled as well.

Seems like the card automatically tells itself to draw more power when there is no AA or generally a lower load. At least for the most part it doesn't seem to impact performance in game so I'm not too worried about it. And VRM temps still stay below 90c max.

But I'm definitely going to try and stay away from short pcb cards in the future. Something about the design, power path and heat output of these cards is just off. I guess they're great for non-overclockers with the small form factor and cheap price but not really something an overclocker should go for.


----------



## Trondster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> If the 92mm fan has to be at 100% always, Isn't it easier to plug it to a molex connector? That way I can use the GPU header to plug the rad fans and set a curve in MSI Afterburner.


Yes - preferably using a powered PWM splitter - that way you can control the radiator fans with the GPU fan header without any risk of burning it out.


----------



## Deses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> I would not suggest running your rad fans off the gpu header. That gpu fan header was not designed for one full size 120mm or larger fan let alone two of them. Rad fans off the aio fan headers if it has that feature or mobo header or fan controller.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Yes - preferably using a powered PWM splitter - that way you can control the radiator fans with the GPU fan header without any risk of burning it out.


But my GPU already drives two fans, will there really be a problem by plugin two 120mm fans to it?


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> I would not suggest running your rad fans off the gpu header. That gpu fan header was not designed for one full size 120mm or larger fan let alone two of them. Rad fans off the aio fan headers if it has that feature or mobo header or fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> Yes - preferably using a powered PWM splitter - that way you can control the radiator fans with the GPU fan header without any risk of burning it out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> But my GPU already drives two fans, will there really be a problem by plugin two 120mm fans to it?
Click to expand...

You may not have any issues. those 90mm fans are around .2-.8 amps per fan and many 120mm fans will also run within those amps including corsairs but some 120mm fans will draw more. For those higher draw fans you may find they will not spin up or draw more power than the header is rated for leading to other more serious problems. Im not saying it cant be done, it has been before im just not suggesting it


----------



## dimasativa

Hello all,

I am new to the forums and I apologize if I am interfering with anyone else questions. I previously posted this in a different section, not realizing it wasn't part of the Official Kraken G10 Owner's Club.

Will the Kraken G10 work with EVGA GTX 980 SC ACX 2.0? Any advise or tips will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimasativa*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I am new to the forums and I apologize if I am interfering with anyone else questions. I previously posted this in a different section, not realizing it wasn't part of the Official Kraken G10 Owner's Club.
> 
> Will the Kraken G10 work with EVGA GTX 980 SC ACX 2.0? Any advise or tips will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


I think it will work. I am having a hard time finding a picture of your PCB. Could you find a picture of your specific card's PCB please? Or take a picture of your own?


----------



## 5erveD

I have got the same card and it will fit nicely.
In order to keep the orginal heatspreder use the copper shim. Otherwise you'll have to remove it.


----------



## dimasativa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I think it will work. I am having a hard time finding a picture of your PCB. Could you find a picture of your specific card's PCB please? Or take a picture of your own?


http://www.overclockers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/evga_gtx980-32.jpg

Thanks!


----------



## dimasativa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> I have got the same card and it will fit nicely.
> In order to keep the orginal heatspreder use the copper shim. Otherwise you'll have to remove it.


What size 20mm x 20mm x1mm?

Thanks!


----------



## 5erveD

That is the size I used. Dont know about other sizes tho.
I also used the backplate from evga. But needed longer screws for that.

This vid explains a lot.


----------



## dimasativa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> That is the size I used. Dont know about other sizes tho.
> I also used the backplate from evga. But needed longer screws for that.
> 
> This vid explains a lot.


Thank you so much for your help!


----------



## 5erveD

You are welcome.
Succes with installing.


----------



## dimasativa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> You are welcome.
> Succes with installing.


Thanks! I'll post my results once all the parts arrive and installed.


----------



## Deses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I think it will work. I am having a hard time finding a picture of your PCB. Could you find a picture of your specific card's PCB please? Or take a picture of your own?


Probably this one:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC Perspective*
> 
> This photo shows the teardown of the EVGA GeForce GTX 980 ACX 2.0 SC card that we are currently testing for review including the ACX 2.0 cooler, the water block and all the screws and assembly parts.


----------



## Bravoexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/GELID-Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA
> 
> $6.


I bought those but couldn't use them. They're 4 pins on the pcb end... but my Asus GTX680's have 5 pin headers.


----------



## steinerhippo

Hey,

I searched the forum but couldn't find an answer.

Does anybody know if the Kraken G10 will fit the MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4G?

I found pictures of the PCB if it helps.
http://ocaholic.ch/modules/xcgal/albums/userpics/MSI-GTX980-Gaming4G/MSI-GTX980-Gaming4G_053.jpg
http://ocaholic.ch/modules/xcgal/albums/userpics/MSI-GTX980-Gaming4G/MSI-GTX980-Gaming4G_054.jpg

Thanks for your help.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steinerhippo*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I searched the forum but couldn't find an answer.
> 
> Does anybody know if the Kraken G10 will fit the MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4G?
> 
> I found pictures of the PCB if it helps.
> http://ocaholic.ch/modules/xcgal/albums/userpics/MSI-GTX980-Gaming4G/MSI-GTX980-Gaming4G_053.jpg
> http://ocaholic.ch/modules/xcgal/albums/userpics/MSI-GTX980-Gaming4G/MSI-GTX980-Gaming4G_054.jpg
> 
> Thanks for your help.


Yes it will. Keep the pre-installed heatsinks on when you mount the G10.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimasativa*
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/evga_gtx980-32.jpg
> 
> Thanks!


Yup, it will fit. If you want to keep the mid-plate, which you should, you will need to buy a copper shim. Ideally, you want a 20mm x 20mm x .08mm, but FrozenCPU shut down, so you cannot get one from them. 15x15 will be fine. Apply thermal paste to both sides. I recommend Gelid GC Extreme.

You will also need to thin down or remove the G10's foam piece on the backplate. Or you can buy longer screws, either way works. I personally thinned down my G10's Foam piece. Or you can remove the foam piece entirely.

You should get good results doing the G10 mod to that card. VRMs are on the right side, and have a built in heatsink. I did it to my EVGA GTX 780 SC which has an almost identical layout, and my results are amazing.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bravoexo*
> 
> I bought those but couldn't use them. They're 4 pins on the pcb end... but my Asus GTX680's have 5 pin headers.


Not sure what to tell ya. 680s are starting to show age in the fast world of GPU upgrades, so there are bound to be some small inconsistencies generation to generation. At least he PCB is the same. You can still use a molex to 3pin connecter to get the 92mm fan running at full speed. It accomplishes the same end result, maybe just not as pretty.


----------



## Bravoexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You can still use a molex to 3pin connecter to get the 92mm fan running at full speed. It accomplishes the same end result, maybe just not as pretty.


No worries, in anticipation of those gelid fan adapters not working, I also bought a Swiftech 8-way pwm Sata powered fan adapter and that powers most of everything I added in. (H75 pumps, g10 92mm fans, dual SP120 on the rads


----------



## dimasativa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yup, it will fit. If you want to keep the mid-plate, which you should, you will need to buy a copper shim. Ideally, you want a 20mm x 20mm x .08mm, but FrozenCPU shut down, so you cannot get one from them. 15x15 will be fine. Apply thermal paste to both sides. I recommend Gelid GC Extreme.
> 
> You will also need to thin down or remove the G10's foam piece on the backplate. Or you can buy longer screws, either way works. I personally thinned down my G10's Foam piece. Or you can remove the foam piece entirely.
> 
> You should get good results doing the G10 mod to that card. VRMs are on the right side, and have a built in heatsink. I did it to my EVGA GTX 780 SC which has an almost identical layout, and my results are amazing.


Thanks!


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yup, it will fit. If you want to keep the mid-plate, which you should, you will need to buy a copper shim. Ideally, you want a 20mm x 20mm x .08mm, but FrozenCPU shut down, so you cannot get one from them. 15x15 will be fine. Apply thermal paste to both sides. I recommend Gelid GC Extreme.
> 
> You will also need to thin down or remove the G10's foam piece on the backplate. Or you can buy longer screws, either way works. I personally thinned down my G10's Foam piece. Or you can remove the foam piece entirely.
> 
> You should get good results doing the G10 mod to that card. VRMs are on the right side, and have a built in heatsink. I did it to my EVGA GTX 780 SC which has an almost identical layout, and my results are amazing.


The foam is mainly used to help guide the G10 bracket on the card, so when you start to tighten down the screws the bracket doesn't move. In all my time mounting the G10, I havent used the foam at all.

But shaving down the foam is good too.


----------



## dimasativa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> The foam is mainly used to help guide the G10 bracket on the card, so when you start to tighten down the screws the bracket doesn't move. In all my time mounting the G10, I havent used the foam at all.
> 
> But shaving down the foam is good too.


Thanks for the advice!


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimasativa*
> 
> Thanks for the advice!


Or flip it around so the foam is on the outside.


----------



## dimasativa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> Or flip it around so the foam is on the outside.


Good idea, thanks! I'll post my results once all the parts come in. I really appreciate the advise you all have provided.

Thanks, again!


----------



## Hazardz

I finally installed the G10 with an H55 onto my Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duo.

First, I popped off the cooler.


Then I cursed at how they left paste all over the GPU.


Cleaned most of the paste off and replaced it with some fresh AS5.


Mounted the backplate reversed and screws with some tape to hold them into place so I don't have to fight with it when I flipped the card over.


Used the included 92mm fan.


But with some silicone mounts.


Cleaned off the factory paste on the H55.


Put the G10 into the screws and then mounted the H55 onto it. Tightened the screws but not too tight.


From the side.


From above.


Currently testing it with a 140mm fan to push and the included 120mm Corsair fan to pull.


Gaming for an hour, the GPU never got above 54C while VRM1 maxed at 78C and VRM2 maxed at 69C. Ran Furmark (yeah, yeah) for only 10 minutes and the GPU kinda topped off at 57C while VRM1 got up to 90C and VRM2 was something like 80C. Before, the GPU would usually hovered around 87C and topped off at 94C.

Anyways, will test it for a few days before putting it into my wife's rig.


----------



## Deses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> Cleaned off the factory paste on the H55.


You didn't mention it, but you did put new thermal compound after cleaning the stock one?

And I'm curious about why you put the back plate reversed, were the screws too short?


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> You didn't mention it, but you did put new thermal compound after cleaning the stock one?
> 
> And I'm curious about why you put the back plate reversed, were the screws too short?


Oh yeah, I used some AS5. I edited my post to add that info.

And yes, the screws would have been too short since this video card has its own backplate.


----------



## missalaire

Is anyone using the G10 with a GTX 970 that has the VRMs on the right side? I'm looking to see if there are any GTX 970s besides the Zotac Amp! Omega Core Edition that has this. I'm planning on buying a GTX 970 soon and I've been debating between MSI and EVGA, but if there's a card with the VRMs on the right side from another good, reputable brand, I would consider getting it.

Also, any recommendations on what to get to get airflow over the VRMs that are on the wrong side of the 970?


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> Is anyone using the G10 with a GTX 970 that has the VRMs on the right side? I'm looking to see if there are any GTX 970s besides the Zotac Amp! Omega Core Edition that has this. I'm planning on buying a GTX 970 soon and I've been debating between MSI and EVGA, but if there's a card with the VRMs on the right side from another good, reputable brand, I would consider getting it.
> 
> Also, any recommendations on what to get to get airflow over the VRMs that are on the wrong side of the 970?


I'm not entirely sure what you mean by the right side.


----------



## missalaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I'm not entirely sure what you mean by the right side.


The right side where it can be properly cooled by the fan on the NZXT G10.

This is what it looks like on the Zotac 970 that I mentioned:



Most 970s seem to have the VRMs on the left side of the GPU die.


----------



## valkatian

Dear G10 Owners!

Soon I will join you! However, I do want to pose a question of peculiar dimensions.

Here's the design of my case, a slightly weirdly equipped Three hundred two.



So, as the image shows, I have 2 frontal 120s, one side 120, all filtered. Inside the case itself, I have 3 80s lined up and pushing all the intake air upwards on the GPU. They're a distance away from the GPU, and should help with vram cooling when the g10 arrives. I have also installed one more 120 to blow over the back of the GPU within the case, cable tied to the top of the case just behind the 5.25 bays. cpu cooler is stock.

At the top, I have a 140 exhaust, a 120 exhaust at the rear, and a 120 slim exhaust located in the cable management side, behind the mobo.

I do not OC my cpu, and the GPU is really all i want to play with.

my temps at idle, with all fans at max revs:



So, i'm wondering when the g10 arrives, together with my h55, should do one of the following?

1) my initial idea was to place the h55 within the case, just behind the two frontal intake fans. there, it would have a decent air supply from the frontal fans, and sits within the case behind filtered air. I will be able to place it there and cable tie to to the 3.5" hdd cages.

2) the other and seemingly more popular method would be to place the radiator on exhaust, removing one of my better 120 exhausts and probably setting it up with the radiator in a pushpull setup.

all fans are linked to an NZXT sentry mix 2 fan controller, with 6 header splitters to control up to 12 fans atm. there is sufficient power as the NZXT has a rated 30w per channel.

3) place it at the side panel as intake, would probably be too bulky and troublesome as removing the side panel now requires much caution.

what do you think? what do you think i can improve?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkatian*
> 
> Dear G10 Owners!
> 
> Soon I will join you! However, I do want to pose a question of peculiar dimensions.
> 
> Here's the design of my case, a slightly weirdly equipped Three hundred two.
> 
> So, as the image shows, I have 2 frontal 120s, one side 120, all filtered. Inside the case itself, I have 3 80s lined up and pushing all the intake air upwards on the GPU. They're a distance away from the GPU, and should help with vram cooling when the g10 arrives. I have also installed one more 120 to blow over the back of the GPU within the case, cable tied to the top of the case just behind the 5.25 bays. cpu cooler is stock.
> 
> At the top, I have a 140 exhaust, a 120 exhaust at the rear, and a 120 slim exhaust located in the cable management side, behind the mobo.
> 
> I do not OC my cpu, and the GPU is really all i want to play with.
> 
> my temps at idle, with all fans at max revs:
> 
> So, i'm wondering when the g10 arrives, together with my h55, should do one of the following?
> 
> 1) my initial idea was to place the h55 within the case, just behind the two frontal intake fans. there, it would have a decent air supply from the frontal fans, and sits within the case behind filtered air. I will be able to place it there and cable tie to to the 3.5" hdd cages.
> 
> 2) the other and seemingly more popular method would be to place the radiator on exhaust, removing one of my better 120 exhausts and probably setting it up with the radiator in a pushpull setup.
> 
> all fans are linked to an NZXT sentry mix 2 fan controller, with 6 header splitters to control up to 12 fans atm. there is sufficient power as the NZXT has a rated 30w per channel.
> 
> 3) place it at the side panel as intake, would probably be too bulky and troublesome as removing the side panel now requires much caution.
> 
> what do you think? what do you think i can improve?


Place it as rear exhaust in push/pull.


----------



## trombman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> That is the size I used. Dont know about other sizes tho.
> I also used the backplate from evga. But needed longer screws for that.
> 
> This vid explains a lot.


I'm am going to install the Kraken g10, Corsair h75, and 20mm x 20mm x1mm copper shim on a evga gtx 980 acx 2.0 in a couple days. I am very excited but I have a couple of questions:
1. According to the video, He used the pea sized method for the copper shim. Would the line method be more consistent in getting the correct amount on both sides of the shim?
2. In the video, He recommends using a 20mm x 20mm x1mm copper shim. Would a 20mm x 20mm x.8mm copper shim be a better size for the evga gtx 980 acx 2.0? I'll be using gelid extreme paste.
3. I am currently installing the kraken g10 and Corsair h75 in a Corsair 500r case. I currently have a Corsair h110 mounted above on the top of the case with the fans on top and radiator on bottom. Would the Corsair h75 and the corsair h110 fit together if the Corsair h75 was mounted as rear exhaust?
Thank you guys for your support


----------



## 5erveD

To answer your questions.

I would stick to the pea method. Haven't tried the line method. But if you think temps get to high you can allways remount the cooler on the card with the line method.
After you installed the cooler once, it isn't that hard to do it again.

I used a 1 mm thick copper shim. In my experience this was spot on. Maybe an 1,2 mm thick copper shim would work to. I wouldn't use a 0.8 mm thick one.
I don't think you will have enough space to mount the cooler because you need to elavate the chip with the shim. It wouldn't make good contact with the cooler. So the heat dispastion would be close to nothing. Because there will be a small gap between the chip and the cooler. This is because you will hit the original heatspreader with the cooler. If you remove the heatspreader you wouldn't need a shim at all.

I dont have any experience with the Corsair casing. I would not have a clue. I have got an NZXT H630 and use a Kraken x60 as cpu cooler mounted in the top ( outtake ) of the case and have the Thermaltake mounted at the rear fan ( outtake ) location. The thing is the NZXT H630 has the option tomove the rear fan up and down. So I can move it up to, let's say, 3 cm more down or up.
I am able to mount a push/pull config in the top after a little ghetto riggin' of the fans. Not really a solid config tho. But it is possible.
Just give it a try. You can allways alter the config if it doens't fit your liking.

Most of all. Succes with the build !


----------



## trombman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> To answer your questions.
> 
> I would stick to the pea method. Haven't tried the line method. But if you think temps get to high you can allways remount the cooler on the card with the line method.
> After you installed the cooler once, it isn't that hard to do it again.
> 
> I used a 1 mm thick copper shim. In my experience this was spot on. Maybe an 1,2 mm thick copper shim would work to. I wouldn't use a 0.8 mm thick one.
> I don't think you will have enough space to mount the cooler because you need to elavate the chip with the shim. It wouldn't make good contact with the cooler. So the heat dispastion would be close to nothing. Because there will be a small gap between the chip and the cooler. This is because you will hit the original heatspreader with the cooler. If you remove the heatspreader you wouldn't need a shim at all.
> 
> I dont have any experience with the Corsair casing. I would not have a clue. I have got an NZXT H630 and use a Kraken x60 as cpu cooler mounted in the top ( outtake ) of the case and have the Thermaltake mounted at the rear fan ( outtake ) location. The thing is the NZXT H630 has the option tomove the rear fan up and down. So I can move it up to, let's say, 3 cm more down or up.
> I am able to mount a push/pull config in the top after a little ghetto riggin' of the fans. Not really a solid config tho. But it is possible.
> Just give it a try. You can allways alter the config if it doens't fit your liking.
> 
> Most of all. Succes with the build !


Thank You kind Sir for answering my questions. You are a gentlemen and a scholar.
I'll be receiving the corsair hydro h75 tomorrow and will test for fit. I measured the height of the 120 mm rad and it measures to 15.2 cm for height. I should have enough space by about 2 to 5 cm extra.
Will post back if the corsair hydro h75 fits with corsair hydro h110 mounted on top of a corsair 500r case.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trombman*
> 
> I'm am going to install the Kraken g10, Corsair h75, and 20mm x 20mm x1mm copper shim on a evga gtx 980 acx 2.0 in a couple days. I am very excited but I have a couple of questions:
> 1. According to the video, He used the pea sized method for the copper shim. Would the line method be more consistent in getting the correct amount on both sides of the shim?
> 2. In the video, He recommends using a 20mm x 20mm x1mm copper shim. Would a 20mm x 20mm x.8mm copper shim be a better size for the evga gtx 980 acx 2.0? I'll be using gelid extreme paste.
> 3. I am currently installing the kraken g10 and Corsair h75 in a Corsair 500r case. I currently have a Corsair h110 mounted above on the top of the case with the fans on top and radiator on bottom. Would the Corsair h75 and the corsair h110 fit together if the Corsair h75 was mounted as rear exhaust?
> Thank you guys for your support


I did this mod using really similar components. EVGA GTX 780 SC while keeping the mid plate and using a shim, so I will try and help answer using the methods I used, because looking at your PCB, it isn't too far off from mine.

1. I also used Gelid GC Extreme. Awesome stuff. I spread my TIM though. The mounting pressure of the G10 is not enormous, so I wanted to make sure the spread was good and even. I spread it on both sides of the copper shim.

2. I used a 20mm x 20mm x .08mm copper shim. So you are ok there.

3. I also have an AIO for my CPU as top intake. But I do have a larger case, Phanteks Enthoo Pro. The 500R is large enough that it should not be an issue.


----------



## 5erveD

@ trombman

Your welcome. Love to see the pictures after completing the build.

@ Pinkothecommu

I wasn't sure about the 0,8 mm. But if you have allready done the mod with an 0.8 mm thick shim I can only encourage Trombman to try the same.
Didn't you encounter any trouble fitting the cooler on the chip ?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> @ trombman
> 
> Your welcome. Love to see the pictures after completing the build.
> 
> @ Pinkothecommu
> 
> I wasn't sure about the 0,8 mm. But if you have allready done the mod with an 0.8 mm thick shim I can only encourage Trombman to try the same.
> Didn't you encounter any trouble fitting the cooler on the chip ?


None whatsoever. It fit perfectly with the .8mm shim in place. Let me see if I can find a picture of it.



Thats what it looked like before I put the 2nd TIM spread on top of that. Once you put two layers of TIM down, that equals a little bit of thickness too. You can still use a 1mm or 1.2mm thick shim. .8mm works too.


----------



## Theboy995

hello!
I want to put this to a titan x, would be compatible and safe? you would put one corsair h110

thank you very much


----------



## valkatian

And it's done.

Phew. It sure wasn't as easy as pop it on and hook it up. Alot of worry over whether everything set right. even the backplate, especially the back plate.

Nevertheless. Cooler temps all around, load temps dropped down to 53 Celsius.

here's some specs to chew on.

GPU: Sapphire 7870 XT
Core Clock: 1200ghz
Memory Clock: 1600ghz

Idle Temps: 35 Celsius (ambient temp 32 celsius)
Load Temps: 53 Celsius (1080p furmark 0xMSAA, score 2711)

Overall, even when done by a complete novice, the improvement is clear. With much lower temps and noise levels, OC limits are easily achieved.

If i'm not pushing my 7870xt hard enough without overvolting, please tell me. I did not notice any significant increase in performance from 1300ghz and 1650 ghz core and ram clock respectively.


----------



## 5erveD

@ PinkoTheCommi

Looking good !


----------



## Deses

Hi!

I just removed my GPU heatsink and I'm facing a problem...

I bought a GPU to PWM adaptor and... It doesn't fit.



















What should I do? I can plug it in 4 of 5 of the pins, but I don't know which ones.


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

I _think_ the 5th pin is a second RPM sense pin for dual-fan coolers. Do you have a multimeter?


----------



## valkatian

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/696838-Help-decoding-5pin-VGA-PWM-header-splitter

I think this old post covers this as well. It doesn't do so very explicitly though.


----------



## valkatian

This is how mine looks after installation. A few things I did that might be noteworthy.

One: the very weird fan set up at the bottom really outputs alot of air. At the expense of noise. At least the vram have a decent flow.

Two: the vram all have little heatsinks applied. The heatsinks from sapphire were huge but did not hinder with installation. I'm glad they had it.



Three: I'm not sure if you can see it clearly. But the card bends under the rather heavy weight of the kraken plus cooler. As such, I used the cable management bracket of the kraken to bind a dowel stick to support the card against the hdd cage.



This was a fun build. Here's a picture of the sapphire 7870xt with the shroud completely removed. Can't find too many pics of it on a Google search for some reason.


----------



## Deses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> I _think_ the 5th pin is a second RPM sense pin for dual-fan coolers. Do you have a multimeter?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkatian*
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/696838-Help-decoding-5pin-VGA-PWM-header-splitter
> 
> I think this old post covers this as well. It doesn't do so very explicitly though.


Thanks for the link! That header works exactly like the one in that post, 3 pins splitted and 2 pins with only one cable. So I figured that I had to plug the header on those pins with 2 cables attached.

Anyway, I made a noob mistake: I mounted everything before testing the cooler...









After mounting everything, the pump made a LOT of gurgling noise. I googled a bit and looks like that it's normal on startup but then it should be silent, I also tried moving around the tubes in case there was air stuck... nothing, the bubbling didn't stop, so I'll RMA my unit to Amazon and try again with the next one. It is a H75 btw.

Oh, and the installation was a complete hell on my AMD card! The screw were a PITA to fit through the holes and are a tad too short, and I had to remove the pump cover with the Corsair logo to make room for the screws, and then putting the cover back after the screws are in place... they are way too bulky. Ah! I also had to cut a little bit of those foam supports.

I'll update and post photos when everything is finished.


----------



## valkatian

The screws are not a perfect fit, and really need to be released slightly to test for on the card, then tightened when you've finalised the alignment. As for length, I don't think you're the only one with screw length issues.


----------



## Hambone07si

Question for you G10 owners. I have the 780ti's with ACX cooler. The ACX cooler has a cooling plate underneath the cooler that covers the memory chips and vrm's. If I were to add the G10 / H55/90 to my 780ti and leave that cooling plate, would that be good enough to keep the vrms and memory cool since that's basically what cools them now anyways? has anyone done this with success? I would like to try the G10 with the H90 and if it works great, do it to my other 780ti. I have the H110 on my cpu and would like to stick with 140mm rads since they are bigger and quieter than 120's. Thanks


----------



## heliontide

Hi everyone! So, I recently picked up a mint, hardly used reference Sapphire R9 290 for $250 (Canadian). I immediately went on Newegg, picked up the H55 for $59 at 25% off along with a Kraken G10 and the GELID VRM kit for the 290/290X.

Seriously cannot wait to show it off once everything arrives sometime next week! I';m thinking the white G10 will look great in my white Phantom 530









Here are my specs:

NZXT Phantom 530 White
Maximus VI Hero
i5 4670K @ 4.4GHz
Corsair H100i
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws
ASUS STRIX GTX 970
AMD R9 290 w/ Kraken G10 & Corsair H55
Soundblaster Z
Corsair Force GS 120GB SSD
WD Black 1TB

Incredibly excited. I've had my eye on the Kraken G10 since launch, and I'm looking forward to a 45 degree Hawaii GPU to chew up The Witcher 3 and GTA V.

Quick question -- how does the H55 do compared to the H75 in a G10? I looked at several reviews and it seems like there's MAYBE a 2-3 degree difference in a worst case scenario. Feedback would be appreciated! Thanks.

See you all very soon


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heliontide*
> 
> Hi everyone! So, I recently picked up a mint, hardly used reference Sapphire R9 290 for $250 (Canadian). I immediately went on Newegg, picked up the H55 for $59 at 25% off along with a Kraken G10 and the GELID VRM kit for the 290/290X.
> 
> Seriously cannot wait to show it off once everything arrives sometime next week! I';m thinking the white G10 will look great in my white Phantom 530
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my specs:
> 
> NZXT Phantom 530 White
> Maximus VI Hero
> i5 4670K @ 4.4GHz
> Corsair H100i
> 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws
> ASUS STRIX GTX 970
> AMD R9 290 w/ Kraken G10 & Corsair H55
> Soundblaster Z
> Corsair Force GS 120GB SSD
> WD Black 1TB
> 
> Incredibly excited. I've had my eye on the Kraken G10 since launch, and I'm looking forward to a 45 degree Hawaii GPU to chew up The Witcher 3 and GTA V.
> 
> Quick question -- how does the H55 do compared to the H75 in a G10? I looked at several reviews and it seems like there's MAYBE a 2-3 degree difference in a worst case scenario. Feedback would be appreciated! Thanks.
> 
> See you all very soon


i notice a difference in pump noise between my H55 (gpu) and my Tt Water 3.0 Performer - the Tt is noticeably quieter at full pump rpm (1500 rpm measured through Asus AI suite) and is louder at every step down of 50rpm to 1000rpm, when i cant notice a difference anymore.

so it'd be worth it imo if you plan on a quiet system to check reviews to look for pump noises, although if you want to cool the 290 down to <60C at full load for extended periods youll be running the fans loud enough that it wont make a difference anyway.


----------



## heliontide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> i notice a difference in pump noise between my H55 (gpu) and my Tt Water 3.0 Performer - the Tt is noticeably quieter at full pump rpm (1500 rpm measured through Asus AI suite) and is louder at every step down of 50rpm to 1000rpm, when i cant notice a difference anymore.
> 
> so it'd be worth it imo if you plan on a quiet system to check reviews to look for pump noises, although if you want to cool the 290 down to <60C at full load for extended periods youll be running the fans loud enough that it wont make a difference anyway.


Yeah, I am going to be using 2x SP120's in push/pull so I'm not too concerned about heat. Just a question -- I have a spare set of the quiet edition SP120's. Would it be worth it for me to invest in the high performance pair, or would those suffice? Also, noise is not really a big issue for me. I have a mix of high performance and quiet SP120's in my case, and I game with noise canceling headphones anyhow so it's not a big deal.


----------



## Hazardz

Anyone here interested in an R9 290 Gelid VRM heatsink set? I bought one, opened it and realized my cards already have some.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Question for you G10 owners. I have the 780ti's with ACX cooler. The ACX cooler has a cooling plate underneath the cooler that covers the memory chips and vrm's. If I were to add the G10 / H55/90 to my 780ti and leave that cooling plate, would that be good enough to keep the vrms and memory cool since that's basically what cools them now anyways? has anyone done this with success? I would like to try the G10 with the H90 and if it works great, do it to my other 780ti. I have the H110 on my cpu and would like to stick with 140mm rads since they are bigger and quieter than 120's. Thanks


I did this mod to my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler which uses a mid plate. The Mid plate is really nice because it does cool the VRMs very well without needing to add anything extra, but I encourage you to add some extras anyways.

So here is a list of what you will absolutely need:
H55/H90
G10 Bracket
Copper Shim

Because of that mid plate, you will need to use a copper shim so that the cooler makes contact with the GPU's die. I used a 20mm x 20mm x .8mm shim. Others have used thicker shims up to 1.2mm. If you do not already own some thermal compound, you will need to buy some because TIM needs to go on both sides of the copper shim. The G10 mod doesn't have a ton of mounting pressure, so I recommend spreading the TIM out on the GPU die and the copper shim. I highly recommend Gelid GC Extreme. It is kinda pricey at $12, but it is some incredible TIM, and comes with a nice spatula for spreading.

Optional Extras:
2nd 120 or 140mm fan
PWM Y Splitter so you can run both radiator fans off of one fan header
VGA to PWM Adapter so you can plug the 92mm Fan into your GPU which frees up a fan header on your mobo.
Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape
Aluminum Heatsinks

Here is a little diagram of our card's PCB:


What I did for my VRMs was kept the mid plate, but I attached those aluminum heatsinks onto that mid plate. To do this, you will need to first remove the included tape that comes on the bottom of the aluminum heatsinks. Then clean the bottoms with isopropyl alcohol. Also clean the mid plate with isopropyl alcohol so that the surface is nice and clean. Cut the tape into individual pieces for each heatsink and place them on the red spots that I outlined. You will have lots of extras, so feel free to do the VRAM if you would like, but they don't get very hot, so its not an issue like with the VRMs.

If you have a backplate, in order to keep it, you will have to thin down or remove the included foam piece on the back of the G10's mounting backplate.

If you have any more questions, I will be happy to help answer them.


----------



## heliontide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> ... You will have lots of extras, so feel free to do the VRAM if you would like, but they don't get very hot, so its not an issue like with the VRMs.
> 
> If you have a backplate, in order to keep it, you will have to thin down or remove the included foam piece on the back of the G10's mounting backplate.
> 
> If you have any more questions, I will be happy to help answer them.


Hey, just curious -- I'm installing a Kraken G10 on an R9 290 very soon. I already purchased a Gelid VRM heatsink kit.. should I get VRAM heatsinks as well, or are they needed?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heliontide*
> 
> Hey, just curious -- I'm installing a Kraken G10 on an R9 290 very soon. I already purchased a Gelid VRM heatsink kit.. should I get VRAM heatsinks as well, or are they needed?


Nope, VRAM doesn't heat up like the VRMs.


----------



## heliontide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Nope, VRAM doesn't heat up like the VRMs.


Ah, I keep seeing people slapping heatsinks on them so I was just curious. Thanks for the clarification.

Also, I noticed you recommend using a rear exhaust for the 120/140mm rads. How about a bottom mount with a push/pull set to intake with a couple SP120 quiet editions? (What I'm currently thinking of doing).

I'm in a Phantom 530, just so you know. My top mounted H100i is set to intake, my 200mm fan in the front is intake, I have an AF140 in the rear as an exhaust, and I'm thinking of utilizing the bottom as there is ample room there. What do you think?


----------



## Theboy995

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theboy995*
> 
> hello!
> I want to put this to a titan x, would be compatible and safe? you would put one corsair h110
> 
> thank you very much


nobody knows anything about it?


----------



## heliontide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theboy995*
> 
> nobody knows anything about it?


Video Card Compatiblity

Nvidia : GTX 980, 970, 780 Ti, 780, 770, 760, Titan, Titan Black, *Titan X*, 680, 670, 660Ti, 660, 580, 570, 560Ti, 560, 560SE
AMD : R9 290X*, 290*, 280X**, 280**, 270X, 270 HD7970**, 7950**, 7870, 7850, 6970, 6950, 6870, 6850, 6790, 6770, 5870, 5850, 5830

Titan X is compatible as per NZXT's official specs. A little bit of patience and research would have went a long way here.


----------



## Theboy995

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heliontide*
> 
> Video Card Compatiblity
> 
> Nvidia : GTX 980, 970, 780 Ti, 780, 770, 760, Titan, Titan Black, *Titan X*, 680, 670, 660Ti, 660, 580, 570, 560Ti, 560, 560SE
> AMD : R9 290X*, 290*, 280X**, 280**, 270X, 270 HD7970**, 7950**, 7870, 7850, 6970, 6950, 6870, 6850, 6790, 6770, 5870, 5850, 5830
> 
> Titan X is compatible as per NZXT's official specs. A little bit of patience and research would have went a long way here.


If you are already puts it supports, but would need to put in the vrm heatskins etc? I doubt amazon morning comes and I'm afraid it burn


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heliontide*
> 
> Ah, I keep seeing people slapping heatsinks on them so I was just curious. Thanks for the clarification.
> 
> Also, I noticed you recommend using a rear exhaust for the 120/140mm rads. How about a bottom mount with a push/pull set to intake with a couple SP120 quiet editions? (What I'm currently thinking of doing).
> 
> I'm in a Phantom 530, just so you know. My top mounted H100i is set to intake, my 200mm fan in the front is intake, I have an AF140 in the rear as an exhaust, and I'm thinking of utilizing the bottom as there is ample room there. What do you think?


Rear exhaust.

The G10 spits out a TON of heat. You want all of that heat going out of your chassis, not into it. People have reported as much as a 10C change in temps just by switching from intake to exhaust. Usually its people is poor airflow cases like the H440 or Define R4/5, but its a general rule of thumb with this mod to set it up as rear exhaust. It is not a one size fits all kind of thing, but 9 times out of 10, you are going to get better results with it set to exhaust.

I also have a 240mm AIO for my CPU set as top intake, paired with my X31 as rear exhaust in push pull, amazing results.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theboy995*
> 
> If you are already puts it supports, but would need to put in the vrm heatskins etc? I doubt amazon morning comes and I'm afraid it burn


If doing this to a Titan X, I would absolutely put extra heatsinks over the VRMs.

You will need thermal pads and aluminum heatsinks.

Place the thermal pads over the VRMs so that it looks like this:


Then remove the included adhesive backing on the heatsinks. Clean them with isopropyl alcohol. Then mount the heatsinks on top of the thermal pads. Give them a firm push, but not too strong that anything would get damaged, use your best judgement. Let sit for an hour or two for a bond to form, then mount in your case.


----------



## valkatian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Rear exhaust.
> 
> The G10 spits out a TON of heat. You want all of that heat going out of your chassis, not into it. People have reported as much as a 10C change in temps just by switching from intake to exhaust. Usually its people is poor airflow cases like the H440 or Define R4/5, but its a general rule of thumb with this mod to set it up as rear exhaust. It is not a one size fits all kind of thing, but 9 times out of 10, you are going to get better results with it set to exhaust.
> 
> I also have a 240mm AIO for my CPU set as top intake, paired with my X31 as rear exhaust in push pull, amazing results.


Just to correct his words so everyone understands: the water cooler spits out a large amount of heat. Not so much the g10 itself. Mostly from the air passing through a highly efficient radiator.

After trying this out myself, I realise that exhaust is almost always the way to go. Rather than criticising your case for bad airflow, I'd say the only reason for intake radiators is if your radiator is not blowing over important components. Especially if it's intake from the front, then y the gpu itself will be heated up by the warm air going over the vram. It's just slightly counter productive.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkatian*
> 
> Just to correct his words so everyone understands: the water cooler spits out a large amount of heat. Not so much the g10 itself. Mostly from the air passing through a highly efficient radiator.
> 
> After trying this out myself, I realise that exhaust is almost always the way to go. Rather than criticising your case for bad airflow, I'd say the only reason for intake radiators is if your radiator is not blowing over important components. Especially if it's intake from the front, then y the gpu itself will be heated up by the warm air going over the vram. It's just slightly counter productive.


Right right, the AIO is what spits out the heat. I just use the G10 because the G10 mounts the AIO directly to the GPU's die, which in turn, makes the air coming out of the radiator exponentially hotter than if done with a custom loop or CPU because of the GPU's TDP.

There is enough evidence in this thread alone, but elsewhere on the internet, particularly Linus Tech Tips that shows how poor of airflow the H440 and Define R4/5 have. It is first and foremost a result of the G10 and AIO, but the poor airflow of these specific cases, and others, these are just the most common I see people using, doesn't help matters at all.

Razzaa, who is a member of both OCN and LTT, he did the G10 mod to his R9 290 in an H440. He later upgraded to a Phanteks Enthoo Pro and had a 10C temp drop, even when his radiator was already set to rear exhaust. There are other examples, I was trying to point out someone who is a member of both forums.


----------



## Ravagethorn

Finally got all the parts to install my G10 this weekend!! The installation was a little bit of a pain because it was hard to keep the pump\heatsink hooked into the mounting bracket. Probably could have used some extra hands to keep the damn radiator steady, but eventually I got it mounted. Did a little bit of testing and the difference in temps is awesome! I'm now running at 28-29 @ idle and playing Assassins Creed Black Flag at max settings it never cracked 55 C!! And the best part of this is the noise.....it no longer sounds like a jet engine when it's cranked up!

The only annoying thing is a slight vibration I can hear, but that obviously has to do with how the radiator and fan are mounted. Would have used rubber grommets when mounting the rad to the case but it wouldn't fit with the screws I had. Anyway something I can deal with later if it gets really annoying.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ravagethorn*
> 
> Finally got all the parts to install my G10 this weekend!! The installation was a little bit of a pain because it was hard to keep the pump\heatsink hooked into the mounting bracket. Probably could have used some extra hands to keep the damn radiator steady, but eventually I got it mounted. Did a little bit of testing and the difference in temps is awesome! I'm now running at 28-29 @ idle and playing Assassins Creed Black Flag at max settings it never cracked 55 C!! And the best part of this is the noise.....it no longer sounds like a jet engine when it's cranked up!
> 
> The only annoying thing is a slight vibration I can hear, but that obviously has to do with how the radiator and fan are mounted. Would have used rubber grommets when mounting the rad to the case but it wouldn't fit with the screws I had. Anyway something I can deal with later if it gets really annoying.


Yay! Those are some awesome temps! And the noise!!!

Yea, mounting it the first time is hard, especially by yourself. The vibrating noise though, I am not sure if that is normal. Maybe make sure the pump is tightened down enough? Not too much that it is bending the card, but not so that it is loose and causing vibrations while pumping.


----------



## missalaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Right right, the AIO is what spits out the heat. I just use the G10 because the G10 mounts the AIO directly to the GPU's die, which in turn, makes the air coming out of the radiator exponentially hotter than if done with a custom loop or CPU because of the GPU's TDP.
> 
> There is enough evidence in this thread alone, but elsewhere on the internet, particularly Linus Tech Tips that shows how poor of airflow the H440 and Define R4/5 have. It is first and foremost a result of the G10 and AIO, but the poor airflow of these specific cases, and others, these are just the most common I see people using, doesn't help matters at all.
> 
> Razzaa, who is a member of both OCN and LTT, he did the G10 mod to his R9 290 in an H440. He later upgraded to a Phanteks Enthoo Pro and had a 10C temp drop, even when his radiator was already set to rear exhaust. There are other examples, I was trying to point out someone who is a member of both forums.


I have a Corsair 760T and I was thinking of getting a 240mm or 280mm AIO cooler for the G10 and mounting it to the front of my case. Would you still recommend rear exhaust over this?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> I have a Corsair 760T and I was thinking of getting a 240mm or 280mm AIO cooler for the G10 and mounting it to the front of my case. Would you still recommend rear exhaust over this?


I would recommend a smaller AIO first off, because anything over 120mm and you hit sharp diminishing returns. The largest I would go is 140mm, either an H75 or X41. And yes, absolutely you want it as exhaust. Even if you set it up in the front of a full tower case, I would still say go for exhaust. Everyone's chassis and situation is different, there is no one size fits all, and there have been rare people claiming that they get the same temps with it as intake as exhaust, but even then, I would still want that hot air out of my chassis than inside of it. Trial and error, find what works best for your specific environment.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I did this mod to my EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler which uses a mid plate. The Mid plate is really nice because it does cool the VRMs very well without needing to add anything extra, but I encourage you to add some extras anyways.
> 
> So here is a list of what you will absolutely need:
> H55/H90
> G10 Bracket
> Copper Shim
> 
> Because of that mid plate, you will need to use a copper shim so that the cooler makes contact with the GPU's die. I used a 20mm x 20mm x .8mm shim. Others have used thicker shims up to 1.2mm. If you do not already own some thermal compound, you will need to buy some because TIM needs to go on both sides of the copper shim. The G10 mod doesn't have a ton of mounting pressure, so I recommend spreading the TIM out on the GPU die and the copper shim. I highly recommend Gelid GC Extreme. It is kinda pricey at $12, but it is some incredible TIM, and comes with a nice spatula for spreading.
> 
> Optional Extras:
> 2nd 120 or 140mm fan
> PWM Y Splitter so you can run both radiator fans off of one fan header
> VGA to PWM Adapter so you can plug the 92mm Fan into your GPU which frees up a fan header on your mobo.
> Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape
> Aluminum Heatsinks
> 
> Here is a little diagram of our card's PCB:
> 
> 
> What I did for my VRMs was kept the mid plate, but I attached those aluminum heatsinks onto that mid plate. To do this, you will need to first remove the included tape that comes on the bottom of the aluminum heatsinks. Then clean the bottoms with isopropyl alcohol. Also clean the mid plate with isopropyl alcohol so that the surface is nice and clean. Cut the tape into individual pieces for each heatsink and place them on the red spots that I outlined. You will have lots of extras, so feel free to do the VRAM if you would like, but they don't get very hot, so its not an issue like with the VRMs.
> 
> If you have a backplate, in order to keep it, you will have to thin down or remove the included foam piece on the back of the G10's mounting backplate.
> 
> If you have any more questions, I will be happy to help answer them.


Thanks for the reply and info bud. Much appreciated. I have decided to go with the G10 and H55 or H90, haven't made up my mind of that yet. Going to look at a lot of reviews between the 2 to see how much a difference it makes. H90 with SP140 static's at full 100% rpm are very quiet, but SP120's move more air so it could be a draw between the 2 but a little more noise from the H55. Still will be a lot quieter than the ACX coolers at 80% fan speed on 2 of them. They just keep getting louder and dumping more heat in the case and heating each other up more after gaming for a while. With just 1 780ti ACX it was great. Temps were never above 67c and fan was only 60%, but not the case with 2 in SLI.

I'll be going to Microcenter in couple hours after work and getting my Kraken G10's and H55/90's. Just not sure whether I want black ones or red ones









I made 2 copper shims today at work and then lapped them perfectly flat. They will work perfect. I made them 23mm x 23mm so they will cover the gpu almost perfect.


----------



## missalaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I would recommend a smaller AIO first off, because anything over 120mm and you hit sharp diminishing returns. The largest I would go is 140mm, either an H75 or X41. And yes, absolutely you want it as exhaust. Even if you set it up in the front of a full tower case, I would still say go for exhaust. Everyone's chassis and situation is different, there is no one size fits all, and there have been rare people claiming that they get the same temps with it as intake as exhaust, but even then, I would still want that hot air out of my chassis than inside of it. Trial and error, find what works best for your specific environment.


Thanks for the quick response. What are your thoughts on a front exhaust and intake fans on the bottom?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Thanks for the reply and info bud. Much appreciated. I have decided to go with the G10 and H55 or H90, haven't made up my mind of that yet. Going to look at a lot of reviews between the 2 to see how much a difference it makes. H90 with SP140 static's at full 100% rpm are very quiet, but SP120's move more air so it could be a draw between the 2 but a little more noise from the H55. Still will be a lot quieter than the ACX coolers at 80% fan speed on 2 of them. They just keep getting louder and dumping more heat in the case and heating each other up more after gaming for a while. With just 1 780ti ACX it was great. Temps were never above 67c and fan was only 60%, but not the case with 2 in SLI.


From my experience, there are just a couple degrees C difference between the H55 and H90.


----------



## Hazardz

As noted here, I put had finally installed a G10 and H55 onto a Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duo but was testing it in my system before popping it into my wife's rig.

This morning, I took a bit of time to do a quick and dirty install using "Plan B" with the H55 as an intake.

*Plan B*









I have 2 x Powercolor R9 290 Turbos so here's a comparison of them with and without the G10.





Here's what it look like installed. Please excuse the terrible pic.






Everything is still a mess in there so I'll have to clean it up when I have some time. Plus, I need to add the 80mm exhaust.

*Temperatures*

I didn't have a lot of time this morning but I did take a look at the temps a little. I originally plugged the pump into one of the motherboard's fan headers and it was *65°C idle*. So, I shut it down and plugged the pump into a PSU via a molex to 3-pin adapter and it dropped to *29°C idle*. I guess the motherboard's plug didn't provide enough power.

I did about 10 minutes of gaming and it never got over *47°C load*. I suspect it will get higher after a few hours of gaming but overall, I'm fairly impressed even with such terrible air flow. Originally, the GPU was running at 94°C under load and was throttling from 975MHz down to 925MHz and maybe even lower. I'll update after I find time to clean up the insides and add in the 80mm exhaust. Probably won't have time until the end of the month or something.

*Cost*

This was a nice little upgrade for the wife as she's coming from a pair of XFX 5850 Black Edition in CrossFireX. She'll be getting a Xeon X5675 ( smoking deal @ $116 USD) to replace her i7 920 soon. Just need time to install it.

Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duo @ $200 + 12% tax = $224 CAD
Kraken G10 @ $27 + 12% tax = $30.24 CAD
Corsair Hydro H55 @ $54.99 + 12% tax = $61.59 CAD
120mm to 140mm adapter (with 140mm fan) @ $9 + 12% tax = $10.08 CAD

Total: $325.91 CAD (~$259 USD)

Plus a couple of buck in screws and washers to get the adapter onto the radiator.

To me, it was a much better deal than grabbing a GTX 970 at the time even with the added cost of putting on an AIO water cooler.

=====================

For my 2nd Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duo, I'll mounting another Corsair Hydro H55 in it and hoping I can fit it into my new Silverstone GD09 case. However, for this one I decided to give the Pulse Modding GPU bracket a try so I ordered a couple of them from KustomPC in Scotland. If it sucks, I'll have to grab another Kraken G10 but they're $49.99 locally now.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Thanks for the reply and info bud. Much appreciated. I have decided to go with the G10 and H55 or H90, haven't made up my mind of that yet. Going to look at a lot of reviews between the 2 to see how much a difference it makes. H90 with SP140 static's at full 100% rpm are very quiet, but SP120's move more air so it could be a draw between the 2 but a little more noise from the H55. Still will be a lot quieter than the ACX coolers at 80% fan speed on 2 of them. They just keep getting louder and dumping more heat in the case and heating each other up more after gaming for a while. With just 1 780ti ACX it was great. Temps were never above 67c and fan was only 60%, but not the case with 2 in SLI.
> 
> I'll be going to Microcenter in couple hours after work and getting my Kraken G10's and H55/90's. Just not sure whether I want black ones or red ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made 2 copper shims today at work and then lapped them perfectly flat. They will work perfect. I made them 23mm x 23mm so they will cover the gpu almost perfect.


Very nice job on those shims, they look great! Honestly man, start with just one G10. There have been others on this thread who have dual GPUs, I tell them to do one first because that is generally all it takes. Doing one will remove enough heat that both can function much better. I won't stop you from doing both if you want, but I'm letting you know that one will probably suffice, and if it doesn't, you can always add a 2nd at a later date.

I would go for an H75 actually, because it comes with two included fans, so it saves a little bit of cost of buying a 2nd fan, unless you already have one laying around. The difference between an H55 and H75/90 is going to be minimal, maybe not even 5C. After 120mm radiator size, the diminishing returns hit hard.

Looking forward to the finished project!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> Thanks for the quick response. What are your thoughts on a front exhaust and intake fans on the bottom?


Seems quirky. I would just go rear exhaust, but you never know. What works for one person doesn't mean it works for another. Maybe try a few different positions to figure out what works best. Also, depending on which card you have, monitor VRM temps, because those can be tricky if you have intake radiators.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very nice job on those shims, they look great! Honestly man, start with just one G10. There have been others on this thread who have dual GPUs, I tell them to do one first because that is generally all it takes. Doing one will remove enough heat that both can function much better. I won't stop you from doing both if you want, but I'm letting you know that one will probably suffice, and if it doesn't, you can always add a 2nd at a later date.
> 
> I would go for an H75 actually, because it comes with two included fans, so it saves a little bit of cost of buying a 2nd fan, unless you already have one laying around. The difference between an H55 and H75/90 is going to be minimal, maybe not even 5C. After 120mm radiator size, the diminishing returns hit hard.
> 
> Looking forward to the finished project!


If his only problem is thermal throttling thats a good point and it would work, but If he has the room he should definitely consider doing both GPUs. Kepler responds very nicely to lower temps. The 770s I had before the 970s boosted to 1400 core after installation of the H90/G-10s without voltage mods. As i think you mentioned, space is a consideration though. It goes quickly with two AIO/GPU setups. If your CPU is air cooled it can create some problems if the case isnt roomy.


----------



## Deses

Hi again!

I just unboxed my second unit and I tested the pump right away... and I have to say that is very noisy! Lots of gurgling sounds coming from the pump. Both this and the first unit that I sent back does the same thing, so I have to ask if this is the normal pump sound or I just have bad luck.

Here's a little video I just recorded. Bear with my spoken English, which is not that good.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> Hi again!
> 
> I just unboxed my second unit and I tested the pump right away... and I have to say that is very noisy! Lots of gurgling sounds coming from the pump. Both this and the first unit that I sent back does the same thing, so I have to ask if this is the normal pump sound or I just have bad luck.
> 
> Here's a little video I just recorded. Bear with my spoken English, which is not that good.


That is normal. All AIOs are going to do that for the first few days until the water circulates and all air bubbles dissipate. Try and move the pump around while plugged in like you have it to help the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT_u_eLVoIc

I know with my X31, also Asetek, it took a few weeks for that noise to fully go away. I did not do that trick shown in the video, I should have. But this is normal. Give it time for the air bubbles to circulate and move out of the pump. Pumps are not going to be completely silent(Except the Cooler Master Nepton 240M, that thing is near silent), but they will be more quiet than what you are experiencing right now.


----------



## Deses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> That is normal. All AIOs are going to do that for the first few days until the water circulates and all air bubbles dissipate. Try and move the pump around while plugged in like you have it to help the process.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT_u_eLVoIc


Oohhhh... I should have watched that video earlier... I'm afraid I returned a perfectly good unit.







Thank goodness that Amazon doesn't care.

Thanks Pinko!


----------



## heliontide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I would go for an H75 actually, because it comes with two included fans, so it saves a little bit of cost of buying a 2nd fan, unless you already have one laying around.


Just wanted to ask you a quick question regarding fans. I have the H55 coming in on Wednesday or so, and I have 2x SP120 quiet edition fans lying around I don't use. Would 2 of these sufffice in a push/pull exhaust or should I stick with high performance? Let me know what you think.

Also, thanks for all your help!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heliontide*
> 
> Just wanted to ask you a quick question regarding fans. I have the H55 coming in on Wednesday or so, and I have 2x SP120 quiet edition fans lying around I don't use. Would 2 of these sufffice in a push/pull exhaust or should I stick with high performance? Let me know what you think.
> 
> Also, thanks for all your help!


Trial and error! Find out what is suitable for your personal preference of sound to performance. I'm confident in saying that two SP120 QEs at 1000+ rpm will deliver excellent performance and low noise in push/pull, but you never know until you try. Maybe you could mix and match, the high performance one that comes included as push, with a QE as pull.

Happy to help!


----------



## heliontide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Trial and error! Find out what is suitable for your personal preference of sound to performance. I'm confident in saying that two SP120 QEs at 1000+ rpm will deliver excellent performance and low noise in push/pull, but you never know until you try. Maybe you could mix and match, the high performance one that comes included as push, with a QE as pull.
> 
> Happy to help!


Hmm.. interesting. However, considering I have slight OCD when it comes to cleanliness and coherence with my builds, I don't see myself mixing the fans up lol. They all have to be SP120's or nothing. I'm pretty sure 2 of the quiet editions should suffice, especially considering how cold my room is all year round. I have an AC in my tiny office that I keep cranked from now until winter, so I really don't think it'll be a problem. I might swap the high performance SP120's out I have on my H100i cooling my 4670K just to see how they stack up, though.


----------



## samjitsu

Hey guys, got an R9 290 (Gigabyte WF-OC) cooled via H55, no VRM heatsinks yet. Core temp goes 70+ when playing graphically demanding games and VRM's can reach up to 100 C. Had the rad on exhaust pull. I am losing hope with my card I really think its faulty. Problem is I can't RMA it since I bought it in Sydney, and currently I live in the Philippines. Maybe it's just my setup? I don't even know.

EDIT: I would also like to know where do you guys insert the AIO fan slot? I inserted it in the CPU fan Slot since I tried inserting it in SYS_FAN but it doesn't quite work well compared when its in the CPU fan slot.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samjitsu*
> 
> Hey guys, got an R9 290 (Gigabyte WF-OC) cooled via H55, no VRM heatsinks yet. Core temp goes 70+ when playing graphically demanding games and VRM's can reach up to 100 C. Had the rad on exhaust pull. I am losing hope with my card I really think its faulty. Problem is I can't RMA it since I bought it in Sydney, and currently I live in the Philippines. Maybe it's just my setup? I don't even know.


I would take it apart, clean it and remount the H55 with some fresh thermal paste.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samjitsu*
> 
> EDIT: I would also like to know where do you guys insert the AIO fan slot? I inserted it in the CPU fan Slot since I tried inserting it in SYS_FAN but it doesn't quite work well compared when its in the CPU fan slot.


I currently have mine on one of the 3 pin fan headers on the motherboard. What do you mean "doesn't quite work well"?


----------



## samjitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I would take it apart, clean it and remount the H55 with some fresh thermal paste.


Already did that with minor adjustments on the screws more than a few times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I currently have mine on one of the 3 pin fan headers on the motherboard. What do you mean "doesn't quite work well"?


Yeah tried putting them on 3 pin sys_fan headers. The pumps don't work well compared when its in the cpu header. I don't even know why.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samjitsu*
> 
> Already did that with minor adjustments on the screws more than a few times.


Maybe it's not making good enough contact so a shim could help. It should be cheap and easy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samjitsu*
> 
> Yeah tried putting them on 3 pin sys_fan headers. The pumps don't work well compared when its in the cpu header. I don't even know why.


Oh, you're talking about plugging in the pump to the header. As I posted earlier here, I originally had the pump plugged into the SYS_FAN header and it was idling at 65°C. I assumed the pump wasn't getting enough power so I plugged it into the PSU via a 3 pin to molex adapter and it went down to 29°C idle.


----------



## samjitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> Maybe it's not making good enough contact so a shim could help. It should be cheap and easy.


Hmm I supposed that could be the reason, do you have any guides on how thick/thin the shim should be? And how should it fit like?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> Oh, you're talking about plugging in the pump to the header. As I posted earlier here, I originally had the pump plugged into the SYS_FAN header and it was idling at 65°C. I assumed the pump wasn't getting enough power so I plugged it into the PSU via a 3 pin to molex adapter and it went down to 29°C idle.


That's nice. So maybe this could be the other reason why I am idling at 40+ and getting load temps at 70+, since maybe the CPU_FAN header is not giving enough power too?


----------



## Jeptil0t

Currently using two reference Sapphire R9 290s with:
Kraken G10
Kraken X31
Gelid VRM Heatsink Kit
4mmx2.5mm Aluminium RAM sinks.
2x 120mm EK Vadar Fans on each radiator
Phobya 2mm Thermal Pads
Seksiui Thermal Tape
Arctic Cooling MX5 Thermal Compound
Mounted in the NZXT S340 case.

GPU temp maxes out at 65c, VRM1 max is 75c and VRM2 max is 65c with power, voltage and clock speeds maxed out, in games.

I have a 140mm NZXT case fan pushing air directly from the front of the case onto the cards, which helps VRM temps by about 10c. I would suggest this as a must have and is absolutely essential for 2x GPUs, otherwise the temperature around your GPUs is going to be an epic hotbox.

I would strongly recommend using your own thermal compound, especially on the AMD GPUs. They don't have an IHS and as such the thermal paste performance is going to be more noticeable than in any other application (like a delided CPU).

I would recommend 3mm Thermal pads, particularly with the Gelid Heatsinks as they tend to not be 100% flat at the base (quality control problem) and the extra thermal pad thickness pushed down allows for contact around the sides of the VRMs, not just on the top side, probably nabbing you a marginal cooling performance improvement.

I wouldn't recommend more than a 120mm radiator, a 140mm only if you are looking for super silent fan configurations and anything north of that is a total waste of space and money.

I might recommend using thermal pads and a second Gelid VRM heatsink installed on the backside using custom /longer screws/nuts, which would reduce the VRM temps by at least 5-10c and given the Gelid kits are cheap (under $15) this might be a worthwhile option, as under torture tests the VRM will still push north of 90 with max voltage and power options. Admittedly though, this would be for someone looking to apply the best VRM cooling option available, short of a FC waterblock, which honestly doesn't even warrant the effort outside of extreme load in Furmark.

Most people probably like this type of solution as you could in theory remove it and apply it to a future GPU purchase, whereas an FC waterblock is more or less worthless once the GPU becomes outdated and you can't use it on anything else, or anything outside of reference boards. However in real world terms, you still aren't getting any VRM cooling, so buying a GTX 980 for example will result in no VRM cooling at all and under OC, they get very very hot, plus there are no mounting points on reference cards for VRM heatsinks, so it's not as universal as you might first imagine, its going to have limited applications.

Also while crossfire is compatible with the G10, even with 2x PCIe slots spare, the top of the G10 bracket can come dangerously close to the back side of the second GPU, risking a possible short. Also (on a more minor note) you will need to studiously tie and pack your tubing onto the bracket to ensure it's not pushing down onto the back of the second GPU, if the tube contacts anywhere on the second card your water temp and GPU temps will rise by about 5c, there's alot of heat pumping out of the back of the card.

In general, I would probably go back to basics and recommend people buy third party boards with non reference cooling or just jump right into a Full Cover Water Block, especially since there are a few moddable AIOs popping up, like the Switchtech H220X on which you could just drop an FC waterblock into the loop which would be significantly easier and offer superior performance. You can easily pickup FC waterblocks on sale for "older" GPUs like the 290 or 780 series, so just think it over before going straight for an AIO bracketed solution.

Overall I found GPU cooling performance to be good, not great (especially considering the fan configuration), however even with very well sourced VRM cooling, VRM temps still ride a little higher than I had expected. Some people reporting significantly lower temps on their VRMs quite simply must be taking liberties with their testing methods and/or voltage settings, or perhaps I just have a hot sample, but that is pretty unlikely as VRM parts rarely produce differing results.

Also the tapes, pads and pastes included all of these products are relatively hopeless, use your own.

Hope this is marginally helpful if people are still looking at the G10 as an option.


----------



## cytrecyx

is anyone try to put the g10 on the msi gtx 970 gaming 4g?
i am using
case : corsair air 240
motherboard : asus maximus vii gene
gpu : msi gtx 970 gaming 4g
cpu : i5 4690k
cpu cooling : corsair h80i
sorry if anyone asked it already...


----------



## Jeptil0t

For the MSI, it comes with a separate shim that covers the VRM and no backplate, so yeah go ahead and mount it on there, should work well and probably one of few cards that will.

For a reference model however you can certainly mount it, but you wont get any VRM cooling. Also there are no mounting holes for VRM heatsinks and the layout of the VRMs is uneven, so you won't even be able to use thermal tape to set a VRM kit on there (not that one exists).

If you don't plan to overclock it, its a suitable solution, but then why are you putting an AIO on your GPU.

Once you overclock the card the VRMs are going to get dangerously hot, even with reference cooling they will go north of 90 once you start pushing power and volts, so naked you are asking for trouble.

Even with the shim on MSI GTX970, I am not too sure how well that is going to hold up once you really ramp up the volts and power, so keep an eye on it, but it should be sweet.


----------



## cytrecyx

do you mean that i cannot overclock my gpu? i don really understand.
sorry for my bad english.


----------



## Jeptil0t

With the MSI GTX970, there is a black shim that covers the RAM and VRM, so you will be able to install the Kraken G10 and have VRM cooling, which will allow for overclocking. Just keep an eye on your VRM temperatures as you do, as the shim is not the most efficient method of cooling a VRM.

However I did not want to misrepresent to other GTX970 users. People with reference boards should consider their lack of VRM cooling before picking up a G10 and/or an AIO for cooling. Same goes for anyone with a backplate that is used to fix any VRM cooling, as you cannot (as far as I know) use the G10 with all backplate designs.


----------



## samjitsu

Hey guys do you think a fan hub powered via Molex to PSU can power sufficiently a Corsair H55? H55 isn't well powered using motherboard fan slots so I am planning to use a fan hub instead.


----------



## valkatian

It seems the h55 pump consumes a maximum of 3 watts so as long as you're connecting to a main channel, and have enough watts per channel you should be good.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Jeptilot

Your temps are on the higher for someone doing this mod and all of the extras you have, not by much, but enough to raise an eyebrow. When I went back to recheck your components, your case shot out at me. The S340. Very similar to the H440, and people who use the H440 tend to have higher temps with this setup because of the poor airflow. We were actually discussing this a few pages back. When using a case with poor airflow like an H440/Define R4/5, you can almost assume an increase of 5-10C on the core, and as much as 15C higher VRM temps. Not everyone experiences this, but being a long time member of the G10 Owner's Club, and helping people on LTT also, it is something I have found to be true more times than not.

Something else I am wondering, how do you have your fans set up? Do you have them intaking or exhausting? I know you have two G10s and radiators, so I am assuming you have them both mounted in the front. Do you have them as intake or exhaust? Try switching them to exhaust, this should help VRM temps dramatically. Even if you have to reverse the airflow of your chassis, getting that hot air out of your case, rather than blowing into your case will do a world of good. Are your 92mm fans spinning at full speed? Don't worry, they aren't audible even at full speed. They do need to be spinning at or near 100% at all times though. I usually recommend people plug them directly into their PSU via molex adapter, or buying a VGA to PWM adapter so they can plug it into their GPU.

Could you also go into greater detail with how you mounting the heatsinks please? Why thermal pads and thermal tape, you should only need one, not both. Were the thermal pads you bought not double sided adhesive? Did you remove the included thermal tape that comes pre-applied to the heatsinks? Did you clean the bottom of the heatsinks with isopropyl alcohol before attaching them?

What kind of overclock are you rocking? Plenty, and I mean plenty of people can push all the way to the pre-defined maximum before BIOS modding is required and get amazing results with the G10. If you are trying to push past that 1.212v or whatever it is, then I wouldn't recommend the G10 mod, but up to that limit, it is fantastic, considering how inexpensive it is. Your temps are not bad considering you have two R9 290s, probably very highly overclocked, and 75C VRM temps are very safe. Also, please don't use Furmark, it is a card killer and shouldn't be used to give estimates. Use Unigine Heaven/Valley or in-game results.

Midplates and backplates work just fine. You have to thin down, or remove the foam piece that comes on the G10's mounting backplate.

Lastly, please don't try and help others when you don't have intricate knowledge of their card. That gentleman with the MSI 970 has more specific needs because his VRMs are on the opposite side of the GPU die. You are also making it sound like you cannot overclock with a G10, this is just misinformation. If you want to go past the BIOS limits, then the G10 isn't viable, but up to that preset maximum, it is fantastic.

Adding heatsinks is inexpensive and easy, and doesn't cost more than $12. It can be done to any card, even ones with mid plates. People with naked cards do the G10 mod without adding any extras and get fantastic overclock results provided they have a case with adequate airflow.

This is all you need to apply heatsinks to a naked card:

Thermal Pads
Aluminum Heatsinks

You first apply the thermal pads over the VRMs, to make it look like this:


Then you clean off the heatsinks, any pre-applied tape. Clean it good with isopropyl alcohol, then mount the heatsinks on top of the thermal pads and you're done. Instant heatsinks to any GPU, reference or non-reference and it helps substantially. There are even further extras that can be purchased like the Antec Spot Cool or PCI Fan Bracket which helps get more precise airflow.

When using a heatsink kit, it drops the Delta VRM temps by more than half when at stock voltage, but I would still expect a nice reduction even with a robust OC dialed in.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cytrecyx*
> 
> is anyone try to put the g10 on the msi gtx 970 gaming 4g?
> i am using
> case : corsair air 240
> motherboard : asus maximus vii gene
> gpu : msi gtx 970 gaming 4g
> cpu : i5 4690k
> cpu cooling : corsair h80i
> sorry if anyone asked it already...


Yes, it can be done, but you will need some extras because the VRMs on that card are on the left side of the GPU die, not the right side like the G10 intended.

In order to get it to work, you will have to buy a PCI Fan Bracket or Antec Spot Cool. Your PCB comes with a heatsink and mid plate already, so all you need to do is get airflow over the VRMs on the left side. The Antec Spot Cool will probably be the easiest method to do this.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> In order to get it to work, you will have to buy a PCI Fan Bracket or Antec Spot Cool. Your PCB comes with a heatsink and mid plate already, so all you need to do is get airflow over the VRMs on the left side. The Antec Spot Cool will probably be the easiest method to do this.


You can fab up something if your of the mindset. I just took some pci slot blanks, drilled and mounted a small fan and mounted it in such a way that it blows over the heatsink for the vrms on each GPU. I have run a moderate OC on my 970s for 6 months or so now without issue. The spot cool will definitely work but if its the one im thinking of it looks like a giant lolipop and would be a tough fit if your running two GPUs and need two of them. To be fair, my fabbed brackets arent beautiful either but they easily mount off the case screws right over the vrms on the maxwell gpus.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very nice job on those shims, they look great! Honestly man, start with just one G10. There have been others on this thread who have dual GPUs, I tell them to do one first because that is generally all it takes. Doing one will remove enough heat that both can function much better. I won't stop you from doing both if you want, but I'm letting you know that one will probably suffice, and if it doesn't, you can always add a 2nd at a later date.
> 
> I would go for an H75 actually, because it comes with two included fans, so it saves a little bit of cost of buying a 2nd fan, unless you already have one laying around. The difference between an H55 and H75/90 is going to be minimal, maybe not even 5C. After 120mm radiator size, the diminishing returns hit hard.
> 
> Looking forward to the finished project!


So I tried just 1 g10 / H55 to start like you said, My top card still was hitting 80c after 3min of Heaven running, bottom card with the g10 was at 58c. Shut down and rip apart again lol. Added the 2nd g10 / H55 and hooked it all back up. Ran Heaven and top card now only hitting 48c after 10min of it running, BUT bottom card is hitting 58c still. I have the pump and fan both running at 100% on both setups. This is a little odd because on air the top card was always about 10-12c hotter than the bottom card. I may have to take it out and redo the mounting. I think I may have done the 2nd one a little better (mounted it tighter) than the 1st. All the videos I watched said not to mount to tight so I may have been a little easy on the first one. By the way, the shims I made work badass and fit the gpu almost perfect. I was pondering the size I had made them 24mm x 24mm so I ended up milling them down to 23mm x 23mm, but after installing them, 24mm x 24mm would be the perfect size. Anyone buying shims for this setup I would look for 24mm sq shims. I also started with a sheet of 1/8" copper, sheared 2 pc's to 1" x 1-1/4". Used the 1/4" extra to hold in the vice and then profile milled both sides so they were perfectly flat and took them down to 1/16" (0.0625) or 1.5mm thick. Then milled off the extra 1/4" used to hold them with. Then took them down to 23mm x 23mm. After machining I lapped both sides and filed all edges so I knew they were good, not to say the one's you can buy would be that flat without checking. Me being the CNC Programmer at my shop, I trust my work way before someone else's, no pun intended







.

All in all the g10's aren't to bad. Anyone wanting to do this same setup, if you can fit a dual 120mm rad as in the H100 I would recommend going that route because the H55 get very hot. The H100 would do a WAY BETTER job honestly. But here's my setup as of now. Running a lot cooler than the ACX coolers and just in time for summer.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> snip


I meant try just one on the top card first =/ Not the bottom.

No matter, I'm glad you got it working. Definitely try tightening it down more, not so much that it bends, but enough that mounting pressure is sufficient. Also, do you have your radiators set as intake or exhaust? If they are intaking, set them to exhaust, that could cause a temp drop, if not on the core, definitely on the VRMs.

I know it sounds like a larger radiator would do wonders, but it really doesn't. The temperature difference between an H55 and X61 is less than 10C.

Running two cards in SLI in the 40s and 50s is nothing to scoff at, especially considering you probably paid around $200 total, whereas if you tried to go custom loop, you would spend more than that in waterblocks alone.


----------



## Hambone07si

yeah, didn't want to mess with the top card first as it was a new card I bought and I had the backplate installed on it already. 2nd card was a factory referb from evga and when I installed it I wasn't to happy with how the cooler seemed kinda loose. As for installing the g10, when I went to take the screws out of the referb card, NOT ONE OF THEM were tight at all. I mean the screws could have been taken out with just pushing your finger on them and not using a screw driver. I didn't even use the screw driver to take all the screws out, just used the bit. The screws are not to be super tight on the cards but they are supposed to be tight, not loose. Also when I took the ACX cooler off and looked at the stock TIM job it was horrible! Just redoing the TIM alone by doing a better / correct job would have dropped the temps down. I hate to say but this isn't the first time with evga cards that I've seen things I do not like. Their craftsman ship seems to be going down hill, and I hate to say that EVGA because you are my #1 company to buy GPU's from.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> So I tried just 1 g10 / H55 to start like you said, My top card still was hitting 80c after 3min of Heaven running, bottom card with the g10 was at 58c. Shut down and rip apart again lol. Added the 2nd g10 / H55 and hooked it all back up. Ran Heaven and top card now only hitting 48c after 10min of it running, BUT bottom card is hitting 58c still. I have the pump and fan both running at 100% on both setups. This is a little odd because on air the top card was always about 10-12c hotter than the bottom card. I may have to take it out and redo the mounting. I think I may have done the 2nd one a little better (mounted it tighter) than the 1st. All the videos I watched said not to mount to tight so I may have been a little easy on the first one. By the way, the shims I made work badass and fit the gpu almost perfect. I was pondering the size I had made them 24mm x 24mm so I ended up milling them down to 23mm x 23mm, but after installing them, 24mm x 24mm would be the perfect size. Anyone buying shims for this setup I would look for 24mm sq shims. I also started with a sheet of 1/8" copper, sheared 2 pc's to 1" x 1-1/4". Used the 1/4" extra to hold in the vice and then profile milled both sides so they were perfectly flat and took them down to 1/16" (0.0625) or 1.5mm thick. Then milled off the extra 1/4" used to hold them with. Then took them down to 23mm x 23mm. After machining I lapped both sides and filed all edges so I knew they were good, not to say the one's you can buy would be that flat without checking. Me being the CNC Programmer at my shop, I trust my work way before someone else's, no pun intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> All in all the g10's aren't to bad. Anyone wanting to do this same setup, if you can fit a dual 120mm rad as in the H100 I would recommend going that route because the H55 get very hot. The H100 would do a WAY BETTER job honestly. But here's my setup as of now. Running a lot cooler than the ACX coolers and just in time for summer.


thats a real nice build - is that a carbide 540?


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> thats a real nice build - is that a carbide 540?


Yezzir







and thanks!! I love the 540 air case. It's setup really nice and has a good amount of room for just about anything you could want, and keeping it looking very nice and clean.

So I took the bottom card out and redid the TIM and mounting of the G10. I was gaming on GTA V for a hour and temps were Top card 48c / Bottom card 59c.. Now I ran heaven and let it loop for 15min and cards are now 48c / 49c . I mounted it down a little tighter and used just a little more TIM this time as it looked a little light doing the rice size, I went with a decent pea size this time. Gpu's could use a little more than cpu I say, but no where near as much as they put on at the factory lol. Going to fire up some GTA V now and see how the temps do. Now if they are both staying at or under 50c I may put a small overclock just to get them running 1200mhz on the core. I leave memory alone really. Stock bios on the Evga SC ACX's with no overclock has the cores running at 1136mhz on my 2 cards. 1200mhz won't be much more stress on the VRM's really. But GTA V is already running maxed settings on my Asus Swift at 110-144fps and looks AMAZING!! System is A LOT quieter now with the G10's and H55's. Now that everything is mounted good, I can say I'm pretty happy with the setup. I didn't think I would really like the G10's compared to a custom loop, but not to shabby







. I already have a quad double thick 420 rad and mcp655 pump and res so adding 2 water blocks wouldn't of been that much more cost over getting the G10's / H55's , but like someone said, they are forward compatible and that is a nice thing to keep in mind. Won't have to worry about buying new blocks when I get 990ti's or whatever they call those lol.

Feeling pretty good right now and happy with my setup. Thanks for the push to go this route!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Yezzir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and thanks!! I love the 540 air case. It's setup really nice and has a good amount of room for just about anything you could want, and keeping it looking very nice and clean.
> 
> So I took the bottom card out and redid the TIM and mounting of the G10. I was gaming on GTA V for a hour and temps were Top card 48c / Bottom card 59c.. Now I ran heaven and let it loop for 15min and cards are now 48c / 49c . I mounted it down a little tighter and used just a little more TIM this time as it looked a little light doing the rice size, I went with a decent pea size this time. Gpu's could use a little more than cpu I say, but no where near as much as they put on at the factory lol. Going to fire up some GTA V now and see how the temps do. Now if they are both staying at or under 50c I may put a small overclock just to get them running 1200mhz on the core. I leave memory alone really. Stock bios on the Evga SC ACX's with no overclock has the cores running at 1136mhz on my 2 cards. 1200mhz won't be much more stress on the VRM's really. But GTA V is already running maxed settings on my Asus Swift at 110-144fps and looks AMAZING!! System is A LOT quieter now with the G10's and H55's. Now that everything is mounted good, I can say I'm pretty happy with the setup. I didn't think I would really like the G10's compared to a custom loop, but not to shabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I already have a quad double thick 420 rad and mcp655 pump and res so adding 2 water blocks wouldn't of been that much more cost over getting the G10's / H55's , but like someone said, they are forward compatible and that is a nice thing to keep in mind. Won't have to worry about buying new blocks when I get 990ti's or whatever they call those lol.
> 
> Feeling pretty good right now and happy with my setup. Thanks for the push to go this route!


You should try going push/pull, that could knock another few C off the core temps. Also, if you haven't already, switch the fans from intake to exhaust, that has helped others achieve as much as a 10C drop in temps, and it will definitely help the VRMs.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You should try going push/pull, that could knock another few C off the core temps. Also, if you haven't already, switch the fans from intake to exhaust, that has helped others achieve as much as a 10C drop in temps, and it will definitely help the VRMs.


I hear ya on the exhaust vs intake. They are setup in intake as of now and they are performing pretty well for my liking now that I redid the mounting of the bottom card. I'm not using the fans that came with the H55's. I'm using some red led SickleFlow's that are 2000rpm and push more air than the stock H55's from the specs. SickleFlow's push 2.94mm/H2O vs stock H55's pushing 1.9mm/H2O. They are pretty quiet as well and match my system nicely. I have the 3 intake fans and the 4th all hooked up to a fan controller with rpm readout of the front of my case. I put the 2 on the H55's on 100% once gaming, and when not I leave them at 60% or so as they are very quiet then. Maybe doing a push/pull with the H55's could help out. The rads are pretty warm when the gpu temps are 55c. Point of a rad is warm water in and cool water out. If it's warm coming out you either need more rad or more fans. I'm sure the H90's 140mm rads would've shaved off 5c or so, but those cost $110 vs $70 at Microcenter. I know I could've gotten them cheaper online but I like to buy from Microcenter as I can return stuff if it isn't working properly. Maybe I'll pick up another SickleFlow tomorrow and do push/pull and see how it goes. I have one already, might have another just have to look around. I have so much pc parts here it's ridiculous







. Finding it is another subject.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Yezzir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and thanks!! I love the 540 air case. It's setup really nice and has a good amount of room for just about anything you could want, and keeping it looking very nice and clean.
> 
> So I took the bottom card out and redid the TIM and mounting of the G10. I was gaming on GTA V for a hour and temps were Top card 48c / Bottom card 59c.. Now I ran heaven and let it loop for 15min and cards are now 48c / 49c . I mounted it down a little tighter and used just a little more TIM this time as it looked a little light doing the rice size, I went with a decent pea size this time. Gpu's could use a little more than cpu I say, but no where near as much as they put on at the factory lol. Going to fire up some GTA V now and see how the temps do. Now if they are both staying at or under 50c I may put a small overclock just to get them running 1200mhz on the core. I leave memory alone really. Stock bios on the Evga SC ACX's with no overclock has the cores running at 1136mhz on my 2 cards. 1200mhz won't be much more stress on the VRM's really. But GTA V is already running maxed settings on my Asus Swift at 110-144fps and looks AMAZING!! System is A LOT quieter now with the G10's and H55's. Now that everything is mounted good, I can say I'm pretty happy with the setup. I didn't think I would really like the G10's compared to a custom loop, but not to shabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I already have a quad double thick 420 rad and mcp655 pump and res so adding 2 water blocks wouldn't of been that much more cost over getting the G10's / H55's , but like someone said, they are forward compatible and that is a nice thing to keep in mind. Won't have to worry about buying new blocks when I get 990ti's or whatever they call those lol.
> 
> Feeling pretty good right now and happy with my setup. Thanks for the push to go this route!


Looking at your set-up I can explain why youre seeing greater temps on your secondary and offer a few solutions. I am also seeing slightly higher temps on my secondary under sustained load. My last run of Valley my temps were 48C primary, 50C secondary with the clocks at 1254 Core / 1900 Memory. Reason secondary is higher is that for one the card itself is coping with the residual heat from the primary's VRM, you can see what I am talking about if put your hand (or a temp probe) above both cards while under load, the space between the cards will be about 10C higher than the space directly above the primary. Another reason is that if you follow the route the heated air from the VRM's on both cards takes, the primary radiator is almost entirely in the clear and sitting almost above the primary GPU whereas secondary radiator is taking the brunt of the heated air from both VRM's, most if not all of it will be sucked out of your secondary AIO.

The temps I see at the end of Heaven or Valley aren't the temps I see after hours on end. After a 3.5 hour session of Shadows of Mordor in 3D @ 2560x1440 also on the Swift my avg. temps were 48 and 52 with peak temps of 54 and 58 with an ambient about room temperature or around 65-70F. (avg load during said session: 80% primary, 85% secondary, {including 10-15 minutes of cut-scenes of near zero load, actual avg. probably 85% primary, 90% secondary} at 1254 core / 1900 memory).

Here are my suggestions.

1. Do you have a 3rd 8x PCIE slot? If so, drop your secondary down to open up the gap between the cards, which will help with the amount of heat built up there.

2. Flip your rear 140mm fan around from exhaust to intake and set it to high when gaming or benching.

3. Adding additional 120mm fans to your AIO's will drop your temps down by 4-5C, this is what I've witnessed in my system.

4. Backplates will help, copper heat-sinks will also help, especially around the VRM areas of your ACX mid-plates (although you wont see a measurable improvement, it is vitally important to cool your VRM's).

5. Run your fans at 80% while gaming, my testing has shown that increasing the RPM from 50 to 80% keeps my temps about 5C cooler, I simply turn down the RPM when browsing the web and I like it quieter via AI Suite 3, since you have an ASUS board you probably have something similar. Beyond 80% the cooing efficiency seems to drop off and the fans are a lot noisier. 80% is the sweet-spot.

6. I recommend turning your pump-speed down from 100% to 70% to prolong the life of your pumps, I have noticed maybe a 1-2C difference which I could not eliminate based on other variables such as subtle changes in ambient etc. between 70% and 100% RPM. Not only will you prolong the life of the pump but there is also a reduction in pump noise. See for yourself. Last thing you want is to wear out your pumps in a few years time. Hopefully youre keeping an eye on your temps under load when they go! Running anything at 100% RPM will shorten the lifespan, this is true for all electronics, especially electric motors.

Here's my set-up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSE8SYdFXwY

P.S. Side panel fan also brought down secondary temp. by 5-6C, it's probably the real reason my load temps are only 4C apart vs. the 10C difference youre seeing. Oh and in the video the 140mm fan in the back of the case has since been turned around with positive results.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Looking at your set-up I can explain why youre seeing greater temps on your secondary and offer a few solutions.


I appreciate your input, but like I said before bud, I'M NOT A NOOB. Reason for my 2nd card being hotter was exactly as I explained above. I did not mount the G10 down as tight because watching the video's and seeing that the card could bend. The 2nd one I did I mounted it down tighter. I redid the mounting and now they are both within 1-2c after gaming for a while or running benches. Also my ambient temps in my place was 72-73 degrees yesterday while doing some testing. I ran Heaven this morning before work as it was only 68 degrees in my place and my temps after running a benchmark and it running for about 10min was at 42c on both cards. That is pretty dame good IMO. Also at idle I was sitting at 23c on both cards which is 71.6 degrees which is also pretty good for being 68f ambient temp. 3-1/2 degrees higher than ambient is very good compared to idling at 28c on air. I have a fan controller like I said and only run my fans on the H55's at 100% while gaming. While I'm just on the net or doing lite work I turn them down to 60% or so and the pc is almost silent. As for pump noise, I can't hear any of the 3 pumps in my system. I may play with some pump speed settings and try from 60% - 100% and see if there's any gains. Seeing as how warm the water is going in and out of the H55's, turning the pumps down a little bit will let the water stay in the rads a little longer thus giving it more time to cool the water before it leaves the rads and making the overall temps drop. It may help and it may not help. It will ALSO keep the water at the block longer and also let the block heat the water more. So it could be a WIN or a LOSS. Testing will tell. From my experience with water cooling over many setups, faster flowing water has always been the winner for me. I have had $5,000 beer chillers from a bar my buddy owed and upgraded, so he gave me his old one and I was able to have fun with chilled water when I had my Tri Sli Gtx 480's on my test bench. That was a lot of fun and seeing my 980x at only 2c







. But running the beer chiller in my house warmed up my place a lot.

After the Heaven bench this morning this is what temps looked like after 10mins of running and this is with a mild overclock (over evga's SC settings), not really a mild overclock over base clock speeds of 875mhz I guess. but I have added +65mhz and +0.037mv to get me 1201mhz on the cores. I do not touch the memory on my gpu's. Watching the bench and playing GTA V last night for over a hour my cards are sitting at 1201mhz on both almost 100% of the time. I saw 1 card drop to 1188mhz for a second and right back to 1201mhz. The 106% power limit comes into play with my cards. I may flash them again if I find a better bios than the skyn3t.rom I tried before. That bios dropped my voltage down to low for my liking and didn't net me a higher stable overclock over my stock evga bios. All in all I'm very happy with the setup. Like I mentioned to PinkoTheCommi , I have another SickleFlow fan sitting in my extra parts and I will put that on the bottom rad and see if push/pull makes any difference over push. I'm sure it will shave a couple degrees off with how warm the water felt coming out of the rad. I will try after work today and let you guys know.

Again thanks for your input, but lets keep this to, we aren't Noobs please









Temps with Heaven this morning with ambient of 68 degrees. I always monitor my temps on Cpu and Gpu's. Idle and Load


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I appreciate your input, but like I said before bud, I'M NOT A NOOB. Reason for my 2nd card being hotter was exactly as I explained above. I did not mount the G10 down as tight because watching the video's and seeing that the card could bend. The 2nd one I did I mounted it down tighter. I redid the mounting and now they are both within 1-2c after gaming for a while or running benches. Also my ambient temps in my place was 72-73 degrees yesterday while doing some testing. I ran Heaven this morning before work as it was only 68 degrees in my place and my temps after running a benchmark and it running for about 10min was at 42c on both cards. That is pretty dame good IMO. Also at idle I was sitting at 23c on both cards which is 71.6 degrees which is also pretty good for being 68f ambient temp. 3-1/2 degrees higher than ambient is very good compared to idling at 28c on air. I have a fan controller like I said and only run my fans on the H55's at 100% while gaming. While I'm just on the net or doing lite work I turn them down to 60% or so and the pc is almost silent. As for pump noise, I can't hear any of the 3 pumps in my system. I may play with some pump speed settings and try from 60% - 100% and see if there's any gains. Seeing as how warm the water is going in and out of the H55's, turning the pumps down a little bit will let the water stay in the rads a little longer thus giving it more time to cool the water before it leaves the rads and making the overall temps drop. It may help and it may not help. It will ALSO keep the water at the block longer and also let the block heat the water more. So it could be a WIN or a LOSS. Testing will tell. From my experience with water cooling over many setups, faster flowing water has always been the winner for me. I have had $5,000 beer chillers from a bar my buddy owed and upgraded, so he gave me his old one and I was able to have fun with chilled water when I had my Tri Sli Gtx 480's on my test bench. That was a lot of fun and seeing my 980x at only 2c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But running the beer chiller in my house warmed up my place a lot.
> 
> After the Heaven bench this morning this is what temps looked like after 10mins of running and this is with a mild overclock (over evga's SC settings), not really a mild overclock over base clock speeds of 875mhz I guess. but I have added +65mhz and +0.037mv to get me 1201mhz on the cores. I do not touch the memory on my gpu's. Watching the bench and playing GTA V last night for over a hour my cards are sitting at 1201mhz on both almost 100% of the time. I saw 1 card drop to 1188mhz for a second and right back to 1201mhz. The 106% power limit comes into play with my cards. I may flash them again if I find a better bios than the skyn3t.rom I tried before. That bios dropped my voltage down to low for my liking and didn't net me a higher stable overclock over my stock evga bios. All in all I'm very happy with the setup. Like I mentioned to PinkoTheCommi , I have another SickleFlow fan sitting in my extra parts and I will put that on the bottom rad and see if push/pull makes any difference over push. I'm sure it will shave a couple degrees off with how warm the water felt coming out of the rad. I will try after work today and let you guys know.
> 
> Again thanks for your input, but lets keep this to, we aren't Noobs please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps with Heaven this morning with ambient of 68 degrees. I always monitor my temps on Cpu and Gpu's. Idle and Load


Of course youre not a noob, only non-noobs keep their rear 140mm fan as exhaust to steal air from all the radiators in their system!

I never said you were a noob, or that I was in a position of informational authority, I was only trying to help considering we have the exact same case and the exact same GPU's with the exact same AIO's. Considering it may be interpreted as a hostile attack, I will keep any information I feel may be helpful to others to myself from this point going forward.

If you still give a crap, there were some improvements to be had by moving the fans to the exterior of the case that I reported in the 780 Ti thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1438886/official-nvidia-gtx-780-ti-owners-club/15420#post_23798224


----------



## vulcan78

Back on topic, a performance update since repositioning my fans outside of the case:

Update:

Previous temps:

Average temps after playing Shadows of Mordor for 3.5 hours, this with the clocks at 1225 Core / 1900 memory:

Ambient: Room Temperature, 65-70F
Primary Load / Temp: 80% / 49C (Max: 99% / 54C)
Secondary Load / Temp: 85% / 53C (Max: 99% / 58C)
CPU Load / Temp: 20% / 50C (Max: 30% / 58C)

Avg. temps after repositioning fans outside of the case WITH higher clocks of 1254 Core / 1900 memory:
(I believe the lower temps have allowed for a little more overclocking head-room and stability as previously 1254 wasn't 100% stable as it seems to be now)

Primary Load /Temp: 80% / 47C (Max 99% / 51C)
Secondary Load / Temp: 86% / 47C (Max 99% / 51C)
CPU Load / Temp: 20% / 49C / (Max 29% / 53C)


----------



## Hambone07si

Anyhow lol. I added that other sickflow 120 to the bottom h55 today and then started gaming on GTA V for a couple hours. Running maxed settings so my cards stay at 95% - 100%, my load temps did not reach 50c today. They stayed in the mid 40's pretty much and now the bottom card is staying about 1-3c cooler than the top card with a push pull setup. It's running pretty nice now and temps are great. As soon as a cut seen starts my temps drop to 30c or into the 20's real fast now. Push/pull does cool the h55's way faster then just push. With it being 68 degrees now after I opened the windows for a while my temps while playing are going from 38-42c with my cards still running at 95% +.. Looks like I have my setup with my G10's just where I want them for the summer coming. Once summer is here then the A/C starts up and then the temps will be even cooler because I like it to be 68 degrees in my place. My pc isn't dumping out any heat like it was with the ACX coolers so "JOB WELL DONE"..

Thanks for the tips and advice from you all.


----------



## ReturnoftheMack

Hey Everyone, I have a corsair 760t with a Swiftech h240x mounted up top cooling the CPU. I have 2 gtx 980s with the kraken G10 AIO coolers on them. I have one mounted in the back and one mounted on the bottom of the case.

My question is, how should I orient the fans on the radiators for the H240x and the 2 kraken g10s(using the Corsair H55 in push/pull)? Any help is appreciated and I am trying to achieve the best temps possible. Thanks!

Full System Specs:

Asus z97 Sabretooth Mark S

Intel 4790k @ 4.7

2x GALAX HOF GTX 980s @ 1550mhz in SLI

Corsair AX 860i

16GB Corsair Dominator @1833

1TB Samsung 840 EVO(OS, games)

1TB WD Black(storage)

I was thinking of the following scenarios:

All exhaust except for the front intake fans or

H55s as exhaust, H240x and front fans as intake?

I honestly just dont know what would be the best here.

Pics of setup attached as well!


----------



## vulcan78

I really want to help but I'm afraid that any effort to help other members here will be misconstrued as being "know-it-all-ish" and invitation for attack from a member here who had absolutely no hand in developing the technology in question, who think they have the authority of a moderator, who exhibits unexceptional intelligence and who watches this forum as though they themselves wrote the net-code responsible for it's existence.

I've had 3 or 4 posts completely deleted now because of this member. I won't risk another.

Not saying any names: "PinkoTheCommi".

Where did it start? With insults, completely unnecessary, from this member: "Spouting BS" and "total waste of money", who then went on, having previously said "I don't think adding a side fan will help" to "I've done my independent testing and found positive results of adding a side fan" after saying what I had done was "totally unnecessary and a waste of money":

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2170*

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2180
*
Results which, as I state in the video accompanying the addition of the side-panel fan, "can't be measurably quantified as there is no way to read the VRM temp with reference PCB Kepler".

*https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSE8SYdFXwY
*
But that isn't the end of it:

"*By the way, I am Faceman on LTT and I absolutely love how because you've done the G10 modification and had it for all of one month you act like the unquestioned expert."*

???

Unquestioned expert? Because I state that if you don't address cooling the VRM youre flirting with disaster? Where do I state or act as though I am an unquestioned expert?

Then, after issuing such insults, this member reports ANY and ALL of my insults to them IMMEDIATELY to moderators, resulting in 4 deleted posts now, like the following from yesterday which should actually be behind my last post above:

*You have received an infraction at Overclock.net*

_*Originally Posted by PinkoTheCommi*

You should do that because in the past, your posts have been very hostile, and know-it-all-ish while being full of conjecture and hand test measurements.

*Originally Posted by vulcan78*

Well if it isn't Mr. Know It All Himself. Please point my posts out specifically, go ahead, you have access to them. I wan't you to be specific with the "know-it-all-ishness". Not to be confused with attempts to be helpful, I want you to go back and point out where I am trying to come off as being Mr. Know it All.

Your are really one to talk in this regard, presiding over this thread as though you invented the technology in question. You didn't. Youre just another consumer moron who has a surplus of time and energy on their hands with which they invest in the digital commons defending an online persona.

Please, PLEASE, show me and anyone else reading this where exactly I am trying to come off as Mr. Smarty Pants and not simply trying to contribute to the community.

"Full of conjecture"

This is really rich coming from someone who only after I post my results from adding a massive side-panel fan goes and then adds a fan on their own and then reports positive results as though the idea was theirs all along!

Youre a vicious simpleton, any more nonsense out of you and I will be seeking help from the moderators.
_

The last post above from this member was completely uninvited and unnecessary, this member monitors this forum like a hawk, again, as though having invented the technology in question, and anyone who is perceived to be some kind of "challenge" or a "threat" they treat with utmost hostility. Go ahead, trace the nonsense back to the beginning, you will see how initially I presented my findings with my set-up in a humble way, even humbly stating that it was an un-economical approach: "So personally speaking, I am kicking myself in the ass", yet somehow this is construed as posturing as an unquestioned expert.

"*By the way, I am Faceman on LTT and I absolutely love how because you've done the G10 modification and had it for all of one month you act like the unquestioned expert."*

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2170*

BTW, the statement quoted above, is a response TO A COMPLIMENT AND GRATITUDE. I had asked PinkoTheCommi if they were "Faceman" from Linus Tech Tips, the author of the guide I initially went by when piecing together my G10 set-up, a guide that in retrospect has some flaws to be quite honest, such as the choice of 20x20x.8mm copper shims which don't fit right. First of all, they don't even cover the entire GPU die and second, their inadequate thickness allows the H55 to clamp down onto the ACX midplate, reducing the pressure exerted on the shim and the GPU itself. I have now ordered replacement 25x25x1.5mm shims that I imagine will work a lot better as the entire die surface will be covered and the H55's will be able to tighten down unhindered by the ACX bracket.

linustechtips.com/main/topic/232654-kraken-g10-help/

Let me ask you, who responds to gratitude and a compliment with an insult? That is a sure sign of stunted emotional intelligence. Go ahead, trace our exchanges further back, I have been nothing but kind and grateful to this member, only to suddenly appear as a "threat" or "challenge" to their perceived position of authority, again, as though they have invented the technology in question.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I really want to help but I'm afraid that any effort to help other members here will be misconstrued as "showing off" or being "know-it-all-ish" and invitation for attack from a member here who had absolutely no hand in developing the technology in question, who think they have the authority of a moderator, who exhibits unexceptional intelligence and who watches this forum as though they themselves wrote the net-code responsible for it's existence.
> 
> I've had 3 or 4 posts completely deleted now because of this member. I won't risk another.
> 
> Not saying any names: "PinkoTheCommi".


Seriously? Im not sure why you would take issue with Pinko. I do know your not going to win any points here starting any crap about him. He easily puts the most effort into helping people with questions concerning the G-10 modification going back most of the way to the release of the product, so I certainly do not blame him for trying to keep the thread clean of any ridiculous and silly drama. Hambones response to your suggestions was rude but it is the internet, who cares.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Seriously? Im not sure why you would take issue with Pinko. I do know your not going to win any points here starting any crap about him. He easily puts the most effort into helping people with questions concerning the G-10 modification going back most of the way to the release of the product, so I certainly do not blame him for trying to keep the thread clean of any ridiculous and silly drama. Hambones response to your suggestions was rude but it is the internet, who cares.


Did you bother to listen to my case and view the evidence?


----------



## Hambone07si

It's all good Vulcan, just gotta watch how you word things sometimes that's all. Not everyone is looking for your full recommendation on how to setup their pc. It's cool to give tips, but try to do it in a nice way without trying to make someone feel that you are making them out to be completely new to the pc world. You tried to tell me how to go about setting up my system which is basically the same, but I have lower temps then you without going the route you told me to. I don't like to get ugly with anyone and I'm sure you really don't either. This is a place to help others but we just have to do so in a nice way. Nobody likes the "Mr know it all's" , not saying that you are doing that, but even if you know a lot, we just need to inform a little different. That was the only reason I responded to your replies the way I did. We can all be friends here and we all should be. We can all man up and let the little crap go and put it behind us and start off fresh with a different attitude, me included. It will help more than hurt, trust me.

I did take one thing that you mentioned to me and made the change and it was better too IMO. Moving the push fans to the outside of the front of the case, but if you would have said "the front grill will still fit over them" I would have done that a lot sooner. With the picture you uploaded of your case with the fans on the outside and no grill on it, I assumed that it didn't fit because you didn't have it on. After moving the fans outside like that, it gave me a lot more room between my pull fans and my gpu's. I really didn't like having 1/8" between the gpu and the fan grill. Just too close for my liking. Now they are moved and I have push/pull on both the H55's, I have about 1-1/2" in between now and the air can flow nicely







. I posted my new temps of the setup in the 780ti owners club after much testing today. I'll give the short story here. I ran 6 different tests with different pump speeds, but the one I'm sticking with is this.

Test 6: Pump 74% 1300rpm , Ambient 68f , Idle temps 21c , Load temps bouncing back and forth from 44c - 45c on Heaven benchmark running 2 full loops and temps have reached the max they are going to.

I am very happy with the way these G10's work with the cheapest AIO H55. I never thought that I would have such a setup working almost just AS GOOD as a custom loop, or even better than some loops I've seen. A few people I know that have some crazy custom loops with 2 triple 360mm rads and their gpu's run in the 50's with 70f ambient temps. For these to be keeping my 780ti's with a +326mhz overclock on the core's at 45c max load with benchmarks, I'm pretty amazed. Going a full custom loop wouldn't get me that much better temps than I got now. Yest the VRM's would be cooler but the core not to much.

Setup with the Push/Pull on the H55's and the Push fans outside, under the grill tho


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Vulcan

I can't even with you. I did not have any of your posts removed, it must have been the moderators because of how foolhardy you sound. I don't want to take the time to deconstruct every part of your argument, because it is numerous, and tedious, and you went way over board, making lots of assumptions, making lots of claims, using your hand as a thermometer and not providing any evidence to back up your claims.

You overspent. BY A LOT. It is your own prerogative to buy all of those extras, to buy a larger radiator then necessary, and spend $150 in VRM cooling. To go around saying that plenty of people have had cards die because of no VRM cooling, or to say that you HAVE to spend a lot on VRM cooling when $12 will be more than enough is absolutely ridiculous and you didn't back up your claims then or now. Just like you don't understand the difference between 99% load in a game and 99% load in Furmark. Your "evidence" is half baked with outside sources, and no scientific measurement. ProTip: Your hand is not a thermometer. You kept throwing money at a potentially non-existent problem. I did actual testing, with a temperature probe to show you the real effect on VRM cooling with a side fan. Did I ever act like adding a side panel fan was my idea? No, and I'm not sure where you got that idea from. I merely tested what the effect of a side panel fan had on my setup and backed it up with a controlled scientific test with actual measurements. You spent so much money on extravagant VRM cooling because you say it "felt hot." My VRM temps which are very good, also "feel hot". See the problem here?

I reread our first exchange, and I stand by everything I said. So do a lot of other people on this forum based on their comments then and now. I am not the only one who picked apart your arguments back in November. I also invite anyone to read our exchanges because anyone looking at it will be able to point out how outrageous and poorly thought out your rationale and understanding of this is. Why don't you leave like you said you would the first time. You seem more preoccupied by trying to justify your purchase and bringing down others than actually helping people, which is what I have been doing for a long time now, even receiving accommodations from the NZXT Hardware Rep. I am going to place you on ignore now because you aren't worth the time, energy, or the forum's storage space.

I am here, and will continue to be here helping people as they ask for it and will provide individualized attention and research to each person's scenario as I have been doing for a long time now, well before you did the mod and decided that you were now the authority on all things G10. This is not the easiest mod, and there are many variables in play for every person. This is not as cut and dry as other mods, which is why I am here helping people using information I have gathered from all of my time helping people on this forum and others.


----------



## valkatian

I think I'm not one to speak, but should forumers have personal conflicts please take it up with a mod or pm

As a simple fan of tech I do not wish to add quarrels into any part of my case or build.


----------



## heliontide

Well, everything is installed, running like a dream!

Check out these temps













Will post more photos of the build tomorrow. Bed time for now! Thanks for all the help!


----------



## Hambone07si

Wish GPU-Z showed me the VRM temps on my 780ti's. Just make sure you check your load temps on the VRMs as both those pics show no full load on the gpu's. Idle temps will be low compared.

I'm taking home a laser temp gun (going to put in my car now at work so I don't forget like yesterday LOL) home today and will be checking temps out on my VRMs , H55 rads (intake, and out) , around the block mounted to the gpus , memory on gpus , and wherever else looks like I need to. I have a little log at home of what's been going on with the changes and I will note down all my temps as well.

I have a 30' high speed hdmi cable coming in and will be running that over to my new Samsung 65" 7150 to play some GTA V when I want to chill on the couch. We'll see if I can manage to like seeing it running locked at 60fps tho now. I got kinda spoiled seeing 120-144 fps on the new Asus Swift I bought. Even on that monitor going from 60hz to 120hz or 144hz is a HUGE difference to me. As soon as I change to 120hz there is such a smooth feel to the game and 144hz even more. Everything can move so fast and still be so clear looking with no ghosting or blurring at all. Love'n it







.


----------



## Callumpy

Hello folks, I am thinking about buying a G10 to put on my 670 with my Antec 620 Khuler. I noticed the G10 is reduced to £16.99 on Amazon at the moment, so I'm even more tempted.

I've done a bit of reading, including Faceman's massive post on Linus Tech Tips, and see that VRM cooling isn't strictly necessary. That being said, I would like to get some heatsinks to put on my VRM and probably memory, because why the hell not?

So I would like to get recommendations for that, what heatsinks should I get, do I need any thermal glue or tape? I live in the UK and see plenty of links to the American Amazon, but if someone could find me decent things to buy in the UK, I would be very appreciative









Thanks!


----------



## Hambone07si

Ok, I just sheared 16 copper blanks out of the same sheet of copper I made my shims with. I need to machine them down to size as I did with mine. I'll see how fast I can make the process so I don't have too much time involved. Then we can work something out if you guys want some custom ones that you can trust are flat


----------



## devolved

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Hello folks, I am thinking about buying a G10 to put on my 670 with my Antec 620 Khuler. I noticed the G10 is reduced to £16.99 on Amazon at the moment, so I'm even more tempted.
> 
> I've done a bit of reading, including Faceman's massive post on Linus Tech Tips, and see that VRM cooling isn't strictly necessary. That being said, I would like to get some heatsinks to put on my VRM and probably memory, because why the hell not?
> 
> So I would like to get recommendations for that, what heatsinks should I get, do I need any thermal glue or tape? I live in the UK and see plenty of links to the American Amazon, but if someone could find me decent things to buy in the UK, I would be very appreciative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Hey check these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-Heatsink-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-TO-220-Transistors-DIY-Project-3D-Print-/251923112501?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aa7c9a235

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-100-Self-Adhesive-Thermal/dp/B0051C3Y96/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1429290702&sr=1-1&keywords=Alphacool+100+x+100+x+0.5+mm+Self+Adhesive+Thermal+Pad


----------



## Hambone07si

So I took the temp gun home with me at lunch time and ran Heaven for 10min, then took the side of my case off and started shooting temps. The back side of the card is where the most heat is. Bottom side of card where the factory plate is covering the VRMs and Memory was a lot cooler probably due to the 92mm fan on the G10. Highest temp I could get was only 50c and mostly was in 30's and 40's. Top side temps I wrote down real quick and then took a picture to edit with the temp zones. See below. Temps are well within a good range and I'm not worried about it at all now. With the cards running the stock ACX cooler, all these temps would have been higher anyways so I shouldn't have anything to worry about and can even overclock higher with max volts my bios will allow me with the 106% power limit. I can tune in 1254mhz stable with no issues I'm sure especially with how low my load temps are now. While the gpu's were under full load I shot the side of the H55 rads to see how warm they were with the cards at a load temp of 45c just as they were yesterday. Rad temps were only 33c and just barely warm to the touch, but before going push / pull and dialing it all in, the rads were very warm to the touch and my bottom card was seeing load temps of 59c at the highest. Gotta say, a bit of testing and tweaking can go a LONG WAY, and of course some talking things over with you guys as well for tips and idea's.

I do give Pinko some credit for advising me on a few things, and I also have to give credit to Vulcan for the idea of moving my push fans to outside of the front of my case under the front grill instead of everything inside the case and cramping it up. Thanks guys. Team work is always best and that's why we are here at OCN









VRM and Memory temps


I think I'm going to go make myself a custom copper heat sink right now while I'm still at work. Let's see what I can come up with


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devolved*
> 
> Hey check these...
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-Heatsink-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-TO-220-Transistors-DIY-Project-3D-Print-/251923112501?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aa7c9a235
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-100-Self-Adhesive-Thermal/dp/B0051C3Y96/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1429290702&sr=1-1&keywords=Alphacool+100+x+100+x+0.5+mm+Self+Adhesive+Thermal+Pad


Thank you, I'll probably get some of those ordered and get myself a G10 pretty soon ish.

I've never really bothered overclocking my GPU before, but I'm sure with this extra cooling I'll be more inclined to do so


----------



## devolved

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Thank you, I'll probably get some of those ordered and get myself a G10 pretty soon ish.
> 
> I've never really bothered overclocking my GPU before, but I'm sure with this extra cooling I'll be more inclined to do so


Cool no worries, yeah I think Pinko mentioned a few pages back about how it's better to use Aluminium so they don't fall off as the copper ones are too heavy for prolonged use as users have reported them to fall off after about a month or so.

That pad is supposed to be good as well, as mentioned a few pages back, it's supposed to be used for heatsink application and forms a strong bond, unlike these other ones I bought in the link below, which aren't designed for the upside down heatsinks.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120mm-x-20mm-0-5mm-6W-mk-THERMAL-HEATSINK-PAD-DOUBLE-SIDED-SELF-ADHESIVE-TAPE-/190925361471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c7409d13f

I didn't do enough research and from previous US people in this thread mentioning the fujipoly pads from frozencpu.com it was much cheaper than ordering those high price ones and getting shipped over, regardless the alphacool ones are supposed to be good.

I got into G10 because I don't want thermal throttling, and having crossfire cards making a hell of a noise....but yeah overclocking will probably happen at some point.
first I need to actually fit the G10s haha....hopefully in next few days


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devolved*
> 
> Cool no worries, yeah I think Pinko mentioned a few pages back about how it's better to use Aluminium so they don't fall off as the copper ones are too heavy for prolonged use as users have reported them to fall off after about a month or so.
> 
> That pad is supposed to be good as well, as mentioned a few pages back, it's supposed to be used for heatsink application and forms a strong bond, unlike these other ones I bought in the link below, which aren't designed for the upside down heatsinks.
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120mm-x-20mm-0-5mm-6W-mk-THERMAL-HEATSINK-PAD-DOUBLE-SIDED-SELF-ADHESIVE-TAPE-/190925361471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c7409d13f
> 
> I didn't do enough research and from previous US people in this thread mentioning the fujipoly pads from frozencpu.com it was much cheaper than ordering those high price ones and getting shipped over, regardless the alphacool ones are supposed to be good.
> 
> I got into G10 because I don't want thermal throttling, and having crossfire cards making a hell of a noise....but yeah overclocking will probably happen at some point.
> first I need to actually fit the G10s haha....hopefully in next few days


The copper sinks that were falling off was a particular brand IIRC. The ones I installed on the 770s I had cost a little more but they didnt have any issues with falling off. Ultimately, Its just a matter of the adhesive they were using. The copper is better but its not going to make enough difference in this application to make it worth going to much trouble to install them. The aluminum sinks will do fine and are readily available. As pinko has mentioned several times though, I cant stress enough how important it is to clean the mounting surfaces with alcohol before you do the installation. It can make all the difference as to whether they stay on or fall off.


----------



## devolved

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The copper sinks that were falling off was a particular brand IIRC. The ones I installed on the 770s I had cost a little more but they didnt have any issues with falling off. Ultimately, Its just a matter of the adhesive they were using. The copper is better but its not going to make enough difference in this application to make it worth going to much trouble to install them. The aluminum sinks will do fine and are readily available. As pinko has mentioned several times though, I cant stress enough how important it is to clean the mounting surfaces with alcohol before you do the installation. It can make all the difference as to whether they stay on or fall off.


Oh ok, fair.
I ordered some copper ones as well a while back, I'll give em a go and I guess just firmly keep em pressed for a few secs to make sure they're stuck properly
cheers.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devolved*
> 
> I got into G10 because I don't want thermal throttling, and having crossfire cards making a hell of a noise....but yeah overclocking will probably happen at some point.
> first I need to actually fit the G10s haha....hopefully in next few days


Before installing a G10/H55, my R9 290 was hitting 94°C and throttling down to as low as 700MHz (from the factory OC of 945MHz) and the 2 little stock fans were pretty noisy being overworked at 100%. Now, no more throttling and not as noisy.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devolved*
> 
> Oh ok, fair.
> I ordered some copper ones as well a while back, I'll give em a go and I guess just firmly keep em pressed for a few secs to make sure they're stuck properly
> cheers.


If you want to give them their best shot at staying on here is what I did,
Clean the surfaces, lay the gpu down on a anti-static bag for a mainboard/gpu (If you have a mainboard anti-static bag I would just place the gpu inside it after you put the heatsinks on) and then install the adhesive/heatsinks. Use a heat gun or a blow dryer to heat up the adhesive, Pressing down LIGHTLY on the heatsinks while heating. This will help to make sure any air pockets have the opportunity to come out. Then let them cool for an hour or so before using them. Ive never had any fall off when I take the time to do this. YMMV of course.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Hello folks, I am thinking about buying a G10 to put on my 670 with my Antec 620 Khuler. I noticed the G10 is reduced to £16.99 on Amazon at the moment, so I'm even more tempted.
> 
> I've done a bit of reading, including Faceman's massive post on Linus Tech Tips, and see that VRM cooling isn't strictly necessary. That being said, I would like to get some heatsinks to put on my VRM and probably memory, because why the hell not?
> 
> So I would like to get recommendations for that, what heatsinks should I get, do I need any thermal glue or tape? I live in the UK and see plenty of links to the American Amazon, but if someone could find me decent things to buy in the UK, I would be very appreciative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Hey there, I want to make sure that this is your PCB, is it?



If it is, then you have a nice pre-installed mid plate. If you would like to add some more heatsinks, all you need to do is buy some Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape, and some Aluminum Heatsinks. Follow what Ultilysm said about how to mount them and you should be A.O.K.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Hey there, I want to make sure that this is your PCB, is it?
> 
> 
> 
> If it is, then you have a nice pre-installed mid plate. If you would like to add some more heatsinks, all you need to do is buy some Sekisui Double Sided Thermal Tape, and some Aluminum Heatsinks. Follow what Ultilysm said about how to mount them and you should be A.O.K.


Woah woah, that's a step ahead







I actually haven't ever had this card apart, so I am not sure. I do hope it's the case though as that looks quite appealing!

If it helps, mines the one with a blue and black (not white and gold) Twin Frozr on it.

EDIT: If I do have a mid-plate, will I need a shim?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Woah woah, that's a step ahead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually haven't ever had this card apart, so I am not sure. I do hope it's the case though as that looks quite appealing!
> 
> If it helps, mines the one with a blue and black (not white and gold) Twin Frozr on it.
> 
> EDIT: If I do have a mid-plate, will I need a shim?


If you could take the card apart so that we can see for absolutely sure, that would be nice. Based on my quick research, this is the black and blue one, so I am confident that this is your card, but its always best to see first hand.

No, you will not need a shim, the mid plate is very well designed so that it doesn't interfere with the GPU Die.

My only real concern is that I cannot tell if the VRMs are on the left or right side of the GPU die. This was the only picture I could find of this card, so I need to do some more digging. If the VRMs do happen to be on the left side of the GPU die, then I am going to recommend that you buy an Antec Spot Cool, or a PCI Fan Bracket in order to get airflow over the left side of your card. The G10's 92mm fan only covers the right side, which is where the majority, but not all cards have their VRMs.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> If you could take the card apart so that we can see for absolutely sure, that would be nice. Based on my quick research, this is the black and blue one, so I am confident that this is your card, but its always best to see first hand.
> 
> No, you will not need a shim, the mid plate is very well designed so that it doesn't interfere with the GPU Die.
> 
> My only real concern is that I cannot tell if the VRMs are on the left or right side of the GPU die. This was the only picture I could find of this card, so I need to do some more digging. If the VRMs do happen to be on the left side of the GPU die, then I am going to recommend that you buy an Antec Spot Cool, or a PCI Fan Bracket in order to get airflow over the left side of your card. The G10's 92mm fan only covers the right side, which is where the majority, but not all cards have their VRMs.


Thanks for your time and concern, it's appreciated greatly!

After a bit of digging around (without taking my card apart), it seems that my card most likely does have the mid-plate on as it's visible in pictures of the card with both the heatsink on and off.

I'm not willing to take my card apart yet, until I have new bits to put on it as well as some new TIM, but I've found these images with the mid-plate removed from a Belarusian site.



Most of the VRM appear to be on the left, what a ball ache! Suddenly makes getting a G10 less appealing right now.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Thanks for your time and concern, it's appreciated greatly!
> 
> After a bit of digging around (without taking my card apart), it seems that my card most likely does have the mid-plate on as it's visible in pictures of the card with both the heatsink on and off.
> 
> I'm not willing to take my card apart yet, until I have new bits to put on it as well as some new TIM, but I've found these images with the mid-plate removed from a Belarusian site.
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the VRM appear to be on the left, what a ball ache! Suddenly makes getting a G10 less appealing right now.


I wouldn't let it deter you completely. Already owning an AIO does go a long way towards the validity of this mod. I want you to double check that you have the Antec Kuhler 620*V4* because that is the one that is compatible with the G10. The only thing you really need to buy in order to make the G10 a legitimate option other than the bracket is an Antec Spot Cool that is hopefully available in your region. If not the Spot Cool, there is a PCI Fan Adapter Bracket , it should also be available on eBay if AliExpress doesn't ship to you. You could also ghetto rig a fan to just be blowing up onto the VRMs.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I wouldn't let it deter you completely. Already owning an AIO does go a long way towards the validity of this mod. I want you to double check that you have the Antec Kuhler 620*V4* because that is the one that is compatible with the G10. The only thing you really need to buy in order to make the G10 a legitimate option other than the bracket is an Antec Spot Cool that is hopefully available in your region. If not the Spot Cool, there is a PCI Fan Adapter Bracket , it should also be available on eBay if AliExpress doesn't ship to you. You could also ghetto rig a fan to just be blowing up onto the VRMs.


Even though I already have the AIO, it's on my CPU at the moment, the plan was to get a new H100 for the CPU and put the 620 on my GPU. My 620 has the round block with a twisting lock, made by Asetek, so I assumed it would fit fine.

I've seen the Antec Spot Cool on Amazon, available for about £11. I was hoping to avoid adding more fans though if possible.

Another option is to get a new GPU







I can't stop looking at 980s and then my wallet.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Even though I already have the AIO, it's on my CPU at the moment, the plan was to get a new H100 for the CPU and put the 620 on my GPU. My 620 has the round block with a twisting lock, made by Asetek, so I assumed it would fit fine.
> 
> I've seen the Antec Spot Cool on Amazon, available for about £11. I was hoping to avoid adding more fans though if possible.
> 
> Another option is to get a new GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't stop looking at 980s and then my wallet.


Yea, that should work then if it has the round back with twist lock mounting.

A 670 is still a strong GPU, but there are definitely better out there. You could probably sell the 670 and put that money towards a new GPU. Overall, your total cost for doing the G10 mod would be less than 30 pounds even after buying an Antec Spot Cool. Thats not including a new AIO for your CPU.

Its up to you, just letting you know that if you do the G10, you will want that Antec Spot Cool, or something similar to get airflow over the VRMs.


----------



## Rakddon

hope you guys can help me choose what CPU Liquid cooler.

I am looking at getting the Kraken G10 as my GTX 780 Ti running in SLI is running a little too hot for my liking.

Is there any/much difference between a 120mm AIO compared to a 140mm AIO???

120mm - NZXT X31/Corsair H55/H75
140mm - NZXT Kraken X41/Corsair H90

TIA


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> hope you guys can help me choose what CPU Liquid cooler.
> 
> I am looking at getting the Kraken G10 as my GTX 780 Ti running in SLI is running a little too hot for my liking.
> 
> Is there any/much difference between a 120mm AIO compared to a 140mm AIO???
> 
> 120mm - NZXT X31/Corsair H55/H75
> 140mm - NZXT Kraken X41/Corsair H90
> 
> TIA


Few degrees C difference between the 120mm and 140mm. I would let pricing guide you, see what you can get the best price on.


----------



## Rakddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Few degrees C difference between the 120mm and 140mm. I would let pricing guide you, see what you can get the best price on.


120mm -
NZXT X31 $90
Corsair H55$85
Corsair H75 $116

140mm -
NZXT Kraken X41 $138
Corsair H90 $140

So not worth the extra $50 for 140mm???

*All prices are in AUD.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> 120mm -
> NZXT X31 $90
> Corsair H55$85
> Corsair H75 $116
> 
> 140mm -
> NZXT Kraken X41 $138
> Corsair H90 $140
> 
> So not worth the extra $50 for 140mm???
> 
> *All prices are in AUD.


I had 55s before I went to the H90s, both on SLI setups. The 140mm does cool a little better but it isnt worth the difference in price unless your rig is running so hot a few degrees matter. I have yet to see a case where a few degrees C made the difference on these G-10 setups. The 120mm kits work well in this application. As to brand choice, everyone has their preferences. I like Corsair because they tend to stand behind their warranties well. But I have not needed their warranty service so far.


----------



## curly haired boy

hey guys, looking to watercool my new titan X, as it likes to get to 84C under load. doesn't throttle more than a hair, but i like to keep things chilly if possible. thinking of going with the EVGA hybrid cooler (confirmed to work with the titan X) or possibly the G10.

My asic score is around 70%, and I'd want to overclock in order to really unlock the performance.

Suggestions?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> 120mm -
> NZXT X31 $90
> Corsair H55$85
> Corsair H75 $116
> 
> 140mm -
> NZXT Kraken X41 $138
> Corsair H90 $140
> 
> So not worth the extra $50 for 140mm???
> 
> *All prices are in AUD.


I would go for the H55. The difference in price doesn't justify the less than 5C temps you will get by going from 120 to 140mm. Best bet is to buy a 2nd 120mm fan, and some high end thermal compound to get the best core temps.

Which specific GTX 780 Ti do you have? Are you planning to do this to both cards, or just the top card?


----------



## Rakddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I would go for the H55. The difference in price doesn't justify the less than 5C temps you will get by going from 120 to 140mm. Best bet is to buy a 2nd 120mm fan, and some high end thermal compound to get the best core temps.
> 
> Which specific GTX 780 Ti do you have? Are you planning to do this to both cards, or just the top card?


I have heard the NZXT AIO perform better then the Corsair.

I have the Gainward GTX 780 Ti Phantom:
http://www.gainward.com/main/vgapro.php?id=922

Yes, I am thinking to do it on both cards.
is there a better option?


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> I have heard the NZXT AIO perform better then the Corsair.
> 
> I have the Gainward GTX 780 Ti Phantom:
> http://www.gainward.com/main/vgapro.php?id=922
> 
> Yes, I am thinking to do it on both cards.
> is there a better option?


H55's work great with Cooler Master SickleFlows (2000rpm 2.94mm/H20) and they cost $10 at most. I have 5 of them in my case now in the front. Both H55's are in Push/Pull and they made a HUGE difference with push/pull. They are pretty quiet as well. I highly recommend them!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> hey guys, looking to watercool my new titan X, as it likes to get to 84C under load. doesn't throttle more than a hair, but i like to keep things chilly if possible. thinking of going with the EVGA hybrid cooler (confirmed to work with the titan X) or possibly the G10.
> 
> My asic score is around 70%, and I'd want to overclock in order to really unlock the performance.
> 
> Suggestions?


Hey there, you could definitely go the route of the G10, but I will advise on getting some extras. Most importantly, VRM cooling.

The Titan has naked VRMs, so we will have to add some thermal pads and heatsinks.

Thermal Pads
Aluminum Heatsinks

I'm also going to recommend a VGA to PWM Adapter and a higher end 92mm Fan to allow for more airflow over the VRMs.

I personally use the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm Fan, and it works very well for being less than $10, and blows a lot more air than the included 92mm Fan. You can use whichever 92mm fan you like, I would just rather get something very powerful because this is the Titan X, and I don't want to take any chances.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> I have heard the NZXT AIO perform better then the Corsair.
> 
> I have the Gainward GTX 780 Ti Phantom:
> http://www.gainward.com/main/vgapro.php?id=922
> 
> Yes, I am thinking to do it on both cards.
> is there a better option?


Is this your PCB?


If it is, wow. That is one heavy duty built in mid-plate, which is a good thing.

The difference in performance between these AIOs when used with the G10 is minimal. Even going from a 120mm to a 280mm AIO, the difference is less than 10C. 120mm is really the sweet spot in terms of price to performance. If you want to go bigger, you can, I wouldn't advise going bigger than 140mm, and even then, the performance gains won't be much. You will be better off buying an H55 + 2nd 120mm Fan + High end thermal compound over a 140mm radiator.

What case do you have? You could definitely do it to both GPUs, but I would recommend starting with just one on the top card first. Eliminating the heat on the top card via G10 bracket has shown massive improvements for both cards when in SLI. You could try it at first with the top card, see how it goes, if you like it, then do both. Or buy both from the start.


----------



## Rakddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> H55's work great with Cooler Master SickleFlows (2000rpm 2.94mm/H20) and they cost $10 at most. I have 5 of them in my case now in the front. Both H55's are in Push/Pull and they made a HUGE difference with push/pull. They are pretty quiet as well. I highly recommend them!




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Is this your PCB?
> 
> 
> If it is, wow. That is one heavy duty built in mid-plate, which is a good thing.
> 
> The difference in performance between these AIOs when used with the G10 is minimal. Even going from a 120mm to a 280mm AIO, the difference is less than 10C. 120mm is really the sweet spot in terms of price to performance. If you want to go bigger, you can, I wouldn't advise going bigger than 140mm, and even then, the performance gains won't be much. You will be better off buying an H55 + 2nd 120mm Fan + High end thermal compound over a 140mm radiator.
> 
> What case do you have? You could definitely do it to both GPUs, but I would recommend starting with just one on the top card first. Eliminating the heat on the top card via G10 bracket has shown massive improvements for both cards when in SLI. You could try it at first with the top card, see how it goes, if you like it, then do both. Or buy both from the start.


Sounds good with the 120mm, now H55, H75 or X31.

The Cooler Master Sickleflows I can get for $7 and specs looks good (might replace all my case fans with them).

I think it was Vulcan who recommended in 1 of his videos to go with the Swiftech H220-X instead as it was an open loop cooler which a GPU block could be added.

Which option would you guys recommend?

I have attached a pic of my PC (Fractal Design R5)

I havent took off the heatsink n fan but that looks like my PCB.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> 
> Sounds good with the 120mm, now H55, H75 or X31.
> 
> The Cooler Master Sickleflows I can get for $7 and specs looks good (might replace all my case fans with them).
> 
> I think it was Vulcan who recommended in 1 of his videos to go with the Swiftech H220-X instead as it was an open loop cooler which a GPU block could be added.
> 
> Which option would you guys recommend?
> 
> I have attached a pic of my PC (Fractal Design R5)
> 
> I havent took off the heatsink n fan but that looks like my PCB.


H55 is the same as the H75 but has only 1 fan. H75 comes with 2 fans. No way would I pay extra $25 for another stock fan. Use the SickleFlows for $7 each and they are way better and quieter. So H55 it is.

With what you got, don't even think about the H220-X. It's not worth it for your setup. Either go inexpensive with the G10/H55's and then you can use that on new gpu's later down the road, or go full custom loop because in the end you will only spend about $40-50 more then if you bought the H220-X, but you would have a FAR SUPERIOR setup with a good pump and 2 good rads, also easier to fill the loop with a normal res vs the H220-X which some aren't even able to fill completely how it's setup. lol

Personally I've always gone with custom loops only in all my builds, but after going with a chance on the G10/H55 setup, I really couldn't be happier and it opened my eyes on what AIO's can actually do. My idle temps are now 21c and load temps benching are 45c if my ambient temps are 68-69f (20c).. Gaming is 43c at max load temp if the game pushes my gpu's both to 99%, but gaming on my TV @ 60hz / 60fps locked, my temps are only 30-32c on both cards and my cards are downclocking from 1201mhz normal overclock to only 600-800mhz because it doesn't need all that power of 2 780ti's ..

Oh, hey Pinko, if anyone is going to keep using their mid plates, recommend 1.5mm thick shims from now on because it will clear the plates better and not chance hitting the plate with the water block like some have done. The 0.8mm shims are TOO THIN. Also perfect size is 24mm x 24mm or even 25mm sq. I would get either 24mm or 25mm over getting 15mm - 20mm. The shims can move out of place and if you only had the 15mm and it move all the way over if someone didn't take their time, that shim could be way off the DIE and cause big trouble real fast. Possibly even melt the chip is it was extremely bad. Just my 2 cents


----------



## Rakddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> With what you got, don't even think about the H220-X. It's not worth it for your setup. Either go inexpensive with the G10/H55's and then you can use that on new gpu's later down the road, or go full custom loop because in the end you will only spend about $40-50 more then if you bought the H220-X, but you would have a FAR SUPERIOR setup with a good pump and 2 good rads, also easier to fill the loop with a normal res vs the H220-X which some aren't even able to fill completely how it's setup. lol
> 
> Personally I've always gone with custom loops only in all my builds, but after going with a chance on the G10/H55 setup, I really couldn't be happier and it opened my eyes on what AIO's can actually do. My idle temps are now 21c and load temps benching are 45c if my ambient temps are 68-69f (20c).. Gaming is 43c at max load temp if the game pushes my gpu's both to 99%, but gaming on my TV @ 60hz / 60fps locked, my temps are only 30-32c on both cards and my cards are downclocking from 1201mhz normal overclock to only 600-800mhz because it doesn't need all that power of 2 780ti's...


If i go custom loop then how much would it cost compared to if i just go with the H55/G10?

2 x 240mm Rads $110
1 x Pump/Res in 1 $189
2 x EK GPU Water Blocks $118
1 x CPU Water Block $95

TotalL $512 + Tubing, Coolant and fittings (probably missing some stuff as well).

If H55/G10

2 x H55 $164
2 x G10 $70
4 x Cooler Master Sickleflow 120mm Fans $28

Total: $262

Hambone07si,
I like your design with 3 separately AIO

what are you using for the CPU?
Was thinking If I do a similiar set up it would cost me an extra $169 for the X61 on top of the H55/G10 setup which totals $431.

So listed above are my 3 options i have.


----------



## cakedude501

Does anyone know if the G10 fits onto the MSI lightning R9 290X? I asked about here and on other sites and have gotten mixed responses. There are some who say it does not work, but the majority say it does. I tried looking on NZXT's site, but they did not have any confirmation. If it does work, i will be a G10 owner by the end of the week.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> If i go custom loop then how much would it cost compared to if i just go with the H55/G10?
> 
> 2 x 240mm Rads $110
> 1 x Pump/Res in 1 $189
> 2 x EK GPU Water Blocks $118
> 1 x CPU Water Block $95
> 
> TotalL $512 + Tubing, Coolant and fittings (probably missing some stuff as well).
> 
> If H55/G10
> 
> 2 x H55 $164
> 2 x G10 $70
> 4 x Cooler Master Sickleflow 120mm Fans $28
> 
> Total: $262
> 
> Hambone07si,
> I like your design with 3 separately AIO
> 
> what are you using for the CPU?
> Was thinking If I do a similiar set up it would cost me an extra $169 for the X61 on top of the H55/G10 setup which totals $431.
> 
> So listed above are my 3 options i have.


I have the Corsair H110 on the CPU, which is a dual 140mm rad. I'm using Corsair SP140mm Static pressure fans on the H110. Thanks for the complement on my setup. I like the 3 separate AIO's as well now that I have them working perfectly with load temps only hitting 45c max. You can use anything you want on the cpu, even a H100 that uses 120mm fans would be just as good as the H110 really. You could then use the same 120mm Sickleflow fans on that and have it all matching, and even 1 in the back for exhaust.

The picture you showed of your case I seen, you might run into a little trouble trying to fit the 2 H55's on your 2 gpu's and then another up top for the cpu. Have you thought about a different case maybe if you went this route? Doing a custom loop you would probably need a different case as well unless you mounted some rads outside of the case, which personally I don't like to do. The Corsair Carbide 540 Air is a GREAT case for pretty cheap price. Can get it here in the states for $120. The psu, dvd drive, ssd drives all mount on the other side of the case and aren't in the same chamber as the mobo/gpu's. So it's all hidden and makes for a real clean install. I love this case. It would also give you lots of options for going water cooling. Can fit 2 x 280mm rads, one in front and one up top. Or a 360mm in front and 240mm up top. Or 3 x H55's in front, or like me 2 x H55's in front and H110/100 up top. Room in this chamber for res/pump combo on floor or back wall mounted to the mesh area, or you can run the res/pump in the back/right chamber above the ssd cage nicely and run a fill port to the top of the case and never have to open it to top off your fluid every once in a while. Lots of options to do anything you want, and in the end, it's always a great looking clean setup.

Like all my buddies say, It's "Hambone Approved"


----------



## Rakddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> I have the Corsair H110 on the CPU, which is a dual 140mm rad. I'm using Corsair SP140mm Static pressure fans on the H110. Thanks for the complement on my setup. I like the 3 separate AIO's as well now that I have them working perfectly with load temps only hitting 45c max. You can use anything you want on the cpu, even a H100 that uses 120mm fans would be just as good as the H110 really. You could then use the same 120mm Sickleflow fans on that and have it all matching, and even 1 in the back for exhaust.
> 
> The picture you showed of your case I seen, you might run into a little trouble trying to fit the 2 H55's on your 2 gpu's and then another up top for the cpu. Have you thought about a different case maybe if you went this route? Doing a custom loop you would probably need a different case as well unless you mounted some rads outside of the case, which personally I don't like to do. The Corsair Carbide 540 Air is a GREAT case for pretty cheap price. Can get it here in the states for $120. The psu, dvd drive, ssd drives all mount on the other side of the case and aren't in the same chamber as the mobo/gpu's. So it's all hidden and makes for a real clean install. I love this case. It would also give you lots of options for going water cooling. Can fit 2 x 280mm rads, one in front and one up top. Or a 360mm in front and 240mm up top. Or 3 x H55's in front, or like me 2 x H55's in front and H110/100 up top. Room in this chamber for res/pump combo on floor or back wall mounted to the mesh area, or you can run the res/pump in the back/right chamber above the ssd cage nicely and run a fill port to the top of the case and never have to open it to top off your fluid every once in a while. Lots of options to do anything you want, and in the end, it's always a great looking clean setup.
> 
> Like all my buddies say, It's "Hambone Approved"


I think my case will be fine with the H55/G10 + another for the CPU (Raijintek Triton AIO Liquid CPU Cooler maybe?)

Can you please have a look here: http://mnpctech.com/fractal-design-define-r5-mid-tower-case-review.html


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> I think my case will be fine with the H55/G10 + another for the CPU (Raijintek Triton AIO Liquid CPU Cooler maybe?)
> 
> Can you please have a look here: http://mnpctech.com/fractal-design-define-r5-mid-tower-case-review.html


Ah I see. You just need to remove some of the hard drive cages in the front and you can fit a lot in that case. Looks pretty slick on that site with the rads they have installed. Your case should be just fine then. Go for the G10/H55's bud. Will be cheap and easy to install. Everything will be on it's own loop. Nothing will heat up the next component in the custom loop setup. You'll be able to move those coolers to new gpu's in the future. Or you can sell the H55's pretty easy as people buy them up just to cool cpu's all day long. You have lots of options going that route vs getting specific water blocks for your gpu's. You will always have to buy new ones if you go custom loops. Also, you never get anywhere near what you paid for the blocks when you go to sell them when ready. That's how I look at it. Easy to move forward and not have to wait ordering new gpu blocks, or can be sold easily as well.

I'm sure you'll be happy with the G10/H55's if you get them running as nice as I did. 45c load temps are great and much quieter than stock cooling or ACX/similar air coolers. Looks pretty good too IMO as how it came out in my system. I actually like the look of the 3 AIO's in my system now. Seen a lot of others when researching before I bought them and some were just put where ever they could be and looked very out of place, and some looked good. The 540 air case makes it easy to look nice with having room for 3 H55's right in front or 2 H55's front and double rad up top.

EDIT:

Looks like you could have room in either of the 2 spots I highlighted in this picture of the backside of the motherboard tray in the front of the case. I think up top on the side of the DVD Drives would be a nice hidden spot and then give you all the room you need for 2 H55's in the front.


----------



## Rakddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Ah I see. You just need to remove some of the hard drive cages in the front and you can fit a lot in that case. Looks pretty slick on that site with the rads they have installed. Your case should be just fine then. Go for the G10/H55's bud. Will be cheap and easy to install. Everything will be on it's own loop. Nothing will heat up the next component in the custom loop setup. You'll be able to move those coolers to new gpu's in the future. Or you can sell the H55's pretty easy as people buy them up just to cool cpu's all day long. You have lots of options going that route vs getting specific water blocks for your gpu's. You will always have to buy new ones if you go custom loops. Also, you never get anywhere near what you paid for the blocks when you go to sell them when ready. That's how I look at it. Easy to move forward and not have to wait ordering new gpu blocks, or can be sold easily as well.
> 
> I'm sure you'll be happy with the G10/H55's if you get them running as nice as I did. 45c load temps are great and much quieter than stock cooling or ACX/similar air coolers. Looks pretty good too IMO as how it came out in my system. I actually like the look of the 3 AIO's in my system now. Seen a lot of others when researching before I bought them and some were just put where ever they could be and looked very out of place, and some looked good. The 540 air case makes it easy to look nice with having room for 3 H55's right in front or 2 H55's front and double rad up top.


Thanks Hambone07 for your help and knowledge!

since this might be my PCB, will the G10 fit on it?
on the G10 website it says unknown compatibility for my Gainward GTX 780 Ti Phantom.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cakedude501*
> 
> Does anyone know if the G10 fits onto the MSI lightning R9 290X? I asked about here and on other sites and have gotten mixed responses. There are some who say it does not work, but the majority say it does. I tried looking on NZXT's site, but they did not have any confirmation. If it does work, i will be a G10 owner by the end of the week.


I assume it's this one.





I'll let someone who knows more chime in.


----------



## cakedude501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I assume it's this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let someone who knows more chime in.


That is the exact one


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Oh, hey Pinko, if anyone is going to keep using their mid plates, recommend 1.5mm thick shims from now on because it will clear the plates better and not chance hitting the plate with the water block like some have done. The 0.8mm shims are TOO THIN. Also perfect size is 24mm x 24mm or even 25mm sq. I would get either 24mm or 25mm over getting 15mm - 20mm. The shims can move out of place and if you only had the 15mm and it move all the way over if someone didn't take their time, that shim could be way off the DIE and cause big trouble real fast. Possibly even melt the chip is it was extremely bad. Just my 2 cents


The thing is, after adding two layers of thermal paste, you end up with a decent amount of thickness. .08mm worked for me, 1.2mm works for others, I don't think it has to be a certain thickness, but somewhere inbetween that range. Also, I haven't found shims that are available in greater than 20mm x 20mm. So I typically recommend the 20mm x 20mm, and never the 15mm x 15mm because that is too small. I have a 20mm x 20mm x .08mm copper shim, two layers of Gelid GC Extreme TIM paired with my EVGA GTX 780 SC and it works great.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cakedude501*
> 
> Does anyone know if the G10 fits onto the MSI lightning R9 290X? I asked about here and on other sites and have gotten mixed responses. There are some who say it does not work, but the majority say it does. I tried looking on NZXT's site, but they did not have any confirmation. If it does work, i will be a G10 owner by the end of the week.


Yes it will fit.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Rakddon

Go with two AIOs + G10. It will cost you a lot less, and deliver nearly the same performance, while remaining compatible with future cards... far as we can tell, unless there is a big change in the way PCBs are designed.

You will want to mount them in the front of your R5. The only potential issue I see is maybe the tube length is not long enough to facilitate both radiators making it all the way to the front. This I am not sure of. The tube length of the H55 is 12", so try and measure the distance to the front of your chassis. Also consider another 25mm for fan. The X31 has 16" tubes, which should be more than enough. I own the X31, and its been kind of a mixed bag for me personally. I wouldn't recommend someone get it unless they absolutely need the 16" tubes, so measure out the distance before making a decision.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Hey guys, just picked up a GTX 970 from work today paid $205 cash for it rest was in store credit. Anywho it's the Zotac ZT-90101-10P and i'm wondering if I should put my kraken g10 (currently on my 7870) on it as the VRMs are on the opposite side of the card from the fan? and off topic does any one know if there is a fullcover block for this card? I looked at the heatkiller block and it looks like it might matchup (http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkillerr-gpu-x-gtx-970.html)
I also saw on EK's cooling configurator that one of their blocks is moddable (drill through the acrylic to fit) anyone seen that mod?

TIA
Fumbles


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> Hey guys, just picked up a GTX 970 from work today paid $205 cash for it rest was in store credit. Anywho it's the Zotac ZT-90101-10P and i'm wondering if I should put my kraken g10 (currently on my 7870) on it as the VRMs are on the opposite side of the card from the fan? and off topic does any one know if there is a fullcover block for this card? I looked at the heatkiller block and it looks like it might matchup (http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkillerr-gpu-x-gtx-970.html)
> I also saw on EK's cooling configurator that one of their blocks is moddable (drill through the acrylic to fit) anyone seen that mod?
> 
> TIA
> Fumbles


This looks like a mini-card, with the VRMs on the left side. While the G10 bracket may fit, there is not going to be a ton of room to get airflow over those VRMs as they are tightly packed in there. You could try an Antec Spot Cool if you really want.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The thing is, after adding two layers of thermal paste, you end up with a decent amount of thickness. .08mm worked for me, 1.2mm works for others, I don't think it has to be a certain thickness, but somewhere inbetween that range. Also, I haven't found shims that are available in greater than 20mm x 20mm. So I typically recommend the 20mm x 20mm, and never the 15mm x 15mm because that is too small. I have a 20mm x 20mm x .08mm copper shim, two layers of Gelid GC Extreme TIM paired with my EVGA GTX 780 SC and it works great.


Have you ever taken the g10 off and seen if there were marks on your mid plate as vulcan has seen with the 0.8mm thick shims and his higher temps will lower ambient temps? Just curious. Tim should NEVER add thickness to anything. TIM is to fill the imperfections in a surface and and bond 2 pieces into 1 to transfer heat or cooling between the 2 components. Your not adding a slice of cheese to your sandwich, you are spreading mustard in the pours of the bread HAHAHAHA







.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Have you ever taken the g10 off and seen if there were marks on your mid plate as vulcan has seen with the 0.8mm thick shims and his higher temps will lower ambient temps? Just curious. Tim should NEVER add thickness to anything. TIM is to fill the imperfections in a surface and and bond 2 pieces into 1 to transfer heat or cooling between the 2 components. Your not adding a slice of cheese to your sandwich, you are spreading mustard in the pours of the bread HAHAHAHA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yes I have, there were no marks both of the times I did it. Since the mounting of the G10 doesn't have the most pressure, I spread the TIM out on both sides of the copper shim, so it does add a little bit of thickness. Not to mention, Gelid GC Extreme is VERY thick and sticky, almost like putty. If people want to buy thicker shims, then by all means, buy a thicker shim. .8mm does work though.


----------



## devolved

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> Before installing a G10/H55, my R9 290 was hitting 94°C and throttling down to as low as 700MHz (from the factory OC of 945MHz) and the 2 little stock fans were pretty noisy being overworked at 100%. Now, no more throttling and not as noisy.


So I've installed both the G10's.

After playing BF4 for 30mins I was getting 55c on the core and VRM 1 + 2 at 48c and 61c.
Last night I was playing for maybe 2 hours and never went above 60c on the core at 70% fan utilization which is roughly 2100RPM, which still doesn't make enough sound to annoy me.

I have crossfire VTX-3D R9 290 on Kraken x31 coolers using EK Furious Vardar FF5 3000RPM.
on the G10 I have Zalman ZM-F2, I got them because they have red LEDs but it's also got a good RPM, top speed is 2,800RPM which is way too loud for me, especially two of them so used the silencer to knock it down to 1,500RPM which makes them silent with their rubber attachments.

Considering I was getting 85c the other day....knocking 85 down to 55 is pretty damn nice, although I did get 60c after a few hours of gaming if I adjusted the fan curve I could probably reduce that, the other fans in the case run at quite a low RPM to keep noise to a minimum.
When I first booted up I had the front two and exhaust fans running at full speed making the GPU idle temp at 26c, but the noise is too much.

Oh yeah the TIM I used was Arctic Silver 5.
I didn't end up using any heatsinks as my card already has them on as someone had previously posted my cards details a few pages back showing this, but I suffer from cretinous dissonance from time to time, almost constantly, but hey If I get a card in the future that doesn't have auto heatsinks then I'm ready haha.





I have the Silverstone FHP141 as exhaust, with two Coolermaster JetFlo on the front, one blowing over 3 hard drives and the bottom one blows straight onto the EK Vardar.

biggup everyone on this thread for all the help.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devolved*
> 
> So I've installed both the G10's.
> 
> After playing BF4 for 30mins I was getting 55c on the core and VRM 1 + 2 at 48c and 61c.
> Last night I was playing for maybe 2 hours and never went above 60c on the core at 70% fan utilization which is roughly 2100RPM, which still doesn't make enough sound to annoy me.
> 
> I have crossfire VTX-3D R9 290 on Kraken x31 coolers using EK Furious Vardar FF5 3000RPM.
> on the G10 I have Zalman ZM-F2, I got them because they have red LEDs but it's also got a good RPM, top speed is 2,800RPM which is way too loud for me, especially two of them so used the silencer to knock it down to 1,500RPM which makes them silent with their rubber attachments.
> 
> Considering I was getting 85c the other day....knocking 85 down to 55 is pretty damn nice, although I did get 60c after a few hours of gaming if I adjusted the fan curve I could probably reduce that, the other fans in the case run at quite a low RPM to keep noise to a minimum.
> When I first booted up I had the front two and exhaust fans running at full speed making the GPU idle temp at 26c, but the noise is too much.
> 
> Oh yeah the TIM I used was Arctic Silver 5.
> I didn't end up using any heatsinks as my card already has them on as someone had previously posted my cards details a few pages back showing this, but I suffer from cretinous dissonance from time to time, almost constantly, but hey If I get a card in the future that doesn't have auto heatsinks then I'm ready haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Silverstone FHP141 as exhaust, with two Coolermaster JetFlo on the front, one blowing over 3 hard drives and the bottom one blows straight onto the EK Vardar.
> 
> biggup everyone on this thread for all the help.


nice work - 55C is nice and cool - for me its about the silence i can get - i run my Noctua iPPC 2000rpm at 1100rpm during GTA V, which is near silent, and it keeps the temps below 70C - which isnt having any negative impact on case temps.


----------



## devolved

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> nice work - 55C is nice and cool - for me its about the silence i can get - i run my Noctua iPPC 2000rpm at 1100rpm during GTA V, which is near silent, and it keeps the temps below 70C - which isnt having any negative impact on case temps.


Nice I was going to get those fans but I wanted to save on some cash as I needed two fans, I need to setup a quieter fan curve now that you mention it....I plan to mod the case and put windows in to get rid of the mesh panels which will hopefully reduce some noise too.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devolved*
> 
> Nice I was going to get those fans but I wanted to save on some cash as I needed two fans, I need to setup a quieter fan curve now that you mention it....I plan to mod the case and put windows in to get rid of the mesh panels which will hopefully reduce some noise too.


yeh i figure that given the AMD cards quite happily run along at 80C with no issues, and if you have your rads exhausting the hot air out of the case you might as well have a quieter setup rather than an extremely cool one. both is the dream but ill take quiet over unnecessarily cool.

the Noctua fans are epic, do def recommend them. they outperform the Noiseblocker B12-P i had at about half the rpm and probably just as quiet doing so from my ear anyway


----------



## devolved

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> yeh i figure that given the AMD cards quite happily run along at 80C with no issues, and if you have your rads exhausting the hot air out of the case you might as well have a quieter setup rather than an extremely cool one. both is the dream but ill take quiet over unnecessarily cool.
> 
> the Noctua fans are epic, do def recommend them. they outperform the Noiseblocker B12-P i had at about half the rpm and probably just as quiet doing so from my ear anyway


Yeah they can handle more but 80c is the tipping point for my cards, 83-85c and throttling arrives, used to have to dial down from ultra to high graphics which aint too bad when you're playing FPS and you die as often as I do.

I wanna get GTA V which will stretch the GPU but I still have loads of college work to do and it will take over.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Where should we plug the pump connector on the AIO watercooler? The graphics card? any pin on the motherboard? Directly to PSU?


----------



## Nagamayasi

I have the ASUS GTX 780 Ti DC2 OC
I plan, to put Kraken G10 + Corsair H75. + VRM & VRAM Heatsink.
and Shin-Etsu X23 7783D for thermalpasta.
===============================================
1. whether I should remove blackpate? or can be installed?
2. how much do I need for a heatsink VRAM & VRM?
3, which VRM & VRAM?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Where should we plug the pump connector on the AIO watercooler? The graphics card? any pin on the motherboard? Directly to PSU?


Directly to PSU.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Where should we plug the pump connector on the AIO watercooler? The graphics card? any pin on the motherboard? Directly to PSU?


What brand of motherboard you got? If Asus, you can use fan expert in AI Suite 3 and control speed of the pump from windows. I found that 70% did nothing different than 100%, actually gives the rad a little more time to cool the water more as well. Pump will be quieter and last longer too. You would want to plug into any of the Chassis Fan header and not the Opt headers. Other motherboards may have a fan control through windows too. Can always run and set in the bios I'm sure, but usually not as much fine control.

Or like Pinko said, straight to PSU for 100% power all time.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagamayasi*
> 
> I have the ASUS GTX 780 Ti DC2 OC
> I plan, to put Kraken G10 + Corsair H75. + VRM & VRAM Heatsink.
> and Shin-Etsu X23 7783D for thermalpasta.
> ===============================================
> 1. whether I should remove blackpate? or can be installed?
> 2. how much do I need for a heatsink VRAM & VRM?
> 3, which VRM & VRAM?


Hello!

1. You can keep the backplate, if for some reason the length of the screws seems too short, you can remove or thin down that foam pad on the G10's mounting backplate. This will create more length for the screws.

2. You need double-sided adhesive thermal pads that is electrically non-conductive. .5-2mm thick. Also aluminum heatsinks, no taller than 6.5mm to be safe.

3. 

Yellow are VRMs
Green are VRAM.

Its the VRMs that you need to be concerned with and add heatsinks to. VRAM can be left alone.


----------



## zorvalth

Hi there, its a huge thread and its hard to go over everything. I'm about to install kraken g10 on reference 290x with kraken x31 because of the long tubing (i need the radiator on top of the case). I livei n europe and i'm plannig to overclock, where can i get sinks for the vrm1 and vrm2 in europe? Thanks!


----------



## danimanfx

Hello guys, I tried searching on this thread but I had no luck. Will Kraken g10 fit with this GPU http://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/b3125/palit-gtx-980-jetstream.html?
If yes, can you please tell me if the package for the bracket comes with all necessary stuff to make this combo work?
I did not receive any reply from NZXT regarding this aswell!

Thank you!


----------



## Hambone07si

Well I did have my fun with installing the G10's with H55's on my Gtx780ti Sli setup. They did perform pretty darn well once I went push/pull on them, but weren't the quietest when gaming. Still pretty great performance for what they were. Sadly that will be coming off my 780ti's and going back as I found some water blocks for my 780ti's that I just couldn't pass on.

I ordered last night 2 of the Aquacomputer Kryographics 780 ti blocks. Normal price was $125 and I got them on sale for ONLY $59.99 each







.. Then I bought the EK L240 Kit and ordered another EK PE 360 rad. I have a EK Supreme black / copper cpu block already so I may not use the block from the kit and just sell or keep on the shelf.

Here's my new custom loop tho
EK 2.2 pump/res combo / EK PE 240mm Rad / EK PE 360mm Rad / EK Supreme Black/copper Cpu Block / Aquacomputer Kryographics Copper/plexi 780 ti blocks. The loop will run like the following picture shows. The 780ti's will create the most heat so that will go right to the 360mm rad, and then cool water to the pump for longer life, then cpu block, then 240mm rad to get water back to ambient before going into the 780ti's again. Should workout great this way. I will have the rest of the parts overnighted to me tomorrow and will build the loop this weekend, if not tomorrow night lol. Can't wait, this is the fun part of system building for me.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danimanfx*
> 
> Hello guys, I tried searching on this thread but I had no luck. Will Kraken g10 fit with this GPU http://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/b3125/palit-gtx-980-jetstream.html?
> If yes, can you please tell me if the package for the bracket comes with all necessary stuff to make this combo work?
> I did not receive any reply from NZXT regarding this aswell!
> 
> Thank you!


It would be best if you can find an image of that GPU with the cooler off. It should work but need to see it with no cooler on to tell you for sure. I bought a couple ASUS 980s last night and will be moving my G-10 and H90s over to the 980s this weekend.


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danimanfx*
> 
> Hello guys, I tried searching on this thread but I had no luck. Will Kraken g10 fit with this GPU http://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/b3125/palit-gtx-980-jetstream.html?
> If yes, can you please tell me if the package for the bracket comes with all necessary stuff to make this combo work?
> I did not receive any reply from NZXT regarding this aswell!
> 
> Thank you!


it will work i googled the title of the card and images this pic came up
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.hardwareluxx.de/images/stories/galleries/reviews/2014/palit-gtx980/palit-gtx980-9-rs.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.hardwareluxx.com/index.php/reviews/hardware/vgacards/33129-test-palit-geforce-gtx-980-super-jetstream-.html?start%3D2&h=400&w=600&tbnid=OpUi9UjLfWUszM:&zoom=1&docid=gGcYroKoqVGyMM&ei=XB45VbbiLoXdar2wgbgD&tbm=isch&ved=0CCkQMygJMAk

slight diff in card but more less same pcb with diff components/cooler

the 900 series share the same mounting dimensions as the 700 series








if it was the vrms on the display side then would be a diff story


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Hi there, its a huge thread and its hard to go over everything. I'm about to install kraken g10 on reference 290x with kraken x31 because of the long tubing (i need the radiator on top of the case). I livei n europe and i'm plannig to overclock, where can i get sinks for the vrm1 and vrm2 in europe? Thanks!


I think it is called a Gelid Heatsink for R9 290X. Where to get it in Europe though, I don't know.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danimanfx*
> 
> Hello guys, I tried searching on this thread but I had no luck. Will Kraken g10 fit with this GPU http://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/b3125/palit-gtx-980-jetstream.html?
> If yes, can you please tell me if the package for the bracket comes with all necessary stuff to make this combo work?
> I did not receive any reply from NZXT regarding this aswell!
> 
> Thank you!


Yes, it will work with your GPU, this is a picture of your card's PCB:


You also need to buy an AIO Cooler to work with the G10 Bracket. There is a list of supported ones on the NZXT Website. I recommend the Corsair H55. It is also a good idea to buy some extras like thermal pads and heatsinks, although it is not required.


----------



## Ultisym

Looks like I will be installing these G-10s and H90s on a pair of GTX 980s tomorrow.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Looks like I will be installing these G-10s and H90s on a pair of GTX 980s tomorrow.


Yayayay!


----------



## trombman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I did this mod using really similar components. EVGA GTX 780 SC while keeping the mid plate and using a shim, so I will try and help answer using the methods I used, because looking at your PCB, it isn't too far off from mine.
> 
> 1. I also used Gelid GC Extreme. Awesome stuff. I spread my TIM though. The mounting pressure of the G10 is not enormous, so I wanted to make sure the spread was good and even. I spread it on both sides of the copper shim.
> 
> 2. I used a 20mm x 20mm x .08mm copper shim. So you are ok there.
> 
> 3. I also have an AIO for my CPU as top intake. But I do have a larger case, Phanteks Enthoo Pro. The 500R is large enough that it should not be an issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trombman*
> 
> I'm am going to install the Kraken g10, Corsair h75, and 20mm x 20mm x1mm copper shim on a evga gtx 980 acx 2.0 in a couple days. I am very excited but I have a couple of questions:
> 1. According to the video, He used the pea sized method for the copper shim. Would the line method be more consistent in getting the correct amount on both sides of the shim?
> 2. In the video, He recommends using a 20mm x 20mm x1mm copper shim. Would a 20mm x 20mm x.8mm copper shim be a better size for the evga gtx 980 acx 2.0? I'll be using gelid extreme paste.
> 3. I am currently installing the kraken g10 and Corsair h75 in a Corsair 500r case. I currently have a Corsair h110 mounted above on the top of the case with the fans on top and radiator on bottom. Would the Corsair h75 and the corsair h110 fit together if the Corsair h75 was mounted as rear exhaust?
> Thank you guys for your support


Thanks Pinko and others for your help. I got everything installed with the corsair h75 in push and pull, kraken g10, 20mm x 20mm x1mm copper shim, on a evga gtx 980 acx 2.0 with the vrm and memory heatsink. Here are some of the tips I will give to any one with my setup:
1. You can mount a 120mm rad and a 280mm rad with the corsair 500r. With corsair its simple, mount the h75 as rear exhaust with push and pull. I recommend you mount your 280 mm rad first (Corsair h110) though since you will be doing this on the top of the case.
2. Even with the copper shim, I had to tighten the kraken g10 more than I thought I had too. I was too conservative at first and my temps when into the mid 70s Celsius underload. I tightened until the water block made contact with the vrm and memory heatsink of the evga gtx 980 acx 2.0. My temps drastically improved, going from the mid 70s to mid 40s (46-48 degrees Celsius running heaven benckmark for 1 hour) and stock with the fans only at 60 percent! With overclocking my temps get to about 53 to 55 degrees Celsius when running fire strike extreme for one hour. This is with ambient temps at 78 degrees Celsius.
3. Do not be afraid of the rubber O-rings glued to the nuts for tightening the bracket of the g10. In my experience, they expanded and stretched in order to get the pressure I needed for the evga gtx 980 temps with the vrm cooling plate and the copper shim. In fact, when I was very conservative with tightening, the rubber O-rings expanded anyways. Just tighten little by little in a cross formation until the water block touches the vrm cooling plate. I did quarter turns to be safe.
I will show some pictures soon!
4. Does anyone know if zoson's custom h20 bios is a good idea http://www.overclock.net/t/1517316/extract-and-flash-gtx-970-and-980-firmware-zosons-h2o-and-air-custom-bios? I tried it out but wanted to know if anyone has had any problems using it with the kraken g10 and a gtx 980.
Thanks and God Bless


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yayayay!


Yeah im looking forward to them. Should be nice. I also went ahead and got a EVGA 850 g2 PSU to make sure I had enough juice to overclock them as I see fit, Should be fun.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trombman*
> 
> snip


Woot! Nice results! Glad you were able to get it working. Yea, those o-ring thingies really give way a whole lot when tightening.

I wouldn't try flashing a custom BIOS or anything, while the core is under water, the VRMs are not, and that is what is hit really hard when you start going up in voltage. With the G10, I wouldn't attempt to go above the pre-defined maximum voltage value.


----------



## BrotherSharp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> A molex powered splitter will work just fine - moustang just argued against the idea that the y splitter would get power from two places simultaneously, and confused him-/herself in the process.
> 
> While some fan controllers supply variable voltages through their fan headers and use that to control non-PWM fans, regular fan headers on motherboards and graphic cards supply a constant 12V, and instead use the pulsating PWM signals to control the fan speed.
> 
> And yes - the molex powered PWM splitter works - I have two in my case, and all the rad fans spin up and down as they should - one controlled by the CPU fan header and one controlled by the GPU.


Hi, how exactly do you control both the rad + fan and vram fan by GPU? Do I connect Molex powered PWM splitter to a VGA-PWM adapter and then to the graphics card fan header?
I'm going to get NZXT G10 soon and I want all GPU fans and rad controlled by GPU temp in MSI Afterburner, but I'm still not sure how to do that.


----------



## Rakddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well I did have my fun with installing the G10's with H55's on my Gtx780ti Sli setup. They did perform pretty darn well once I went push/pull on them, but weren't the quietest when gaming. Still pretty great performance for what they were. Sadly that will be coming off my 780ti's and going back as I found some water blocks for my 780ti's that I just couldn't pass on.
> 
> I ordered last night 2 of the Aquacomputer Kryographics 780 ti blocks. Normal price was $125 and I got them on sale for ONLY $59.99 each
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Then I bought the EK L240 Kit and ordered another EK PE 360 rad. I have a EK Supreme black / copper cpu block already so I may not use the block from the kit and just sell or keep on the shelf.
> 
> Here's my new custom loop tho
> EK 2.2 pump/res combo / EK PE 240mm Rad / EK PE 360mm Rad / EK Supreme Black/copper Cpu Block / Aquacomputer Kryographics Copper/plexi 780 ti blocks. The loop will run like the following picture shows. The 780ti's will create the most heat so that will go right to the 360mm rad, and then cool water to the pump for longer life, then cpu block, then 240mm rad to get water back to ambient before going into the 780ti's again. Should workout great this way. I will have the rest of the parts overnighted to me tomorrow and will build the loop this weekend, if not tomorrow night lol. Can't wait, this is the fun part of system building for me.


Did u purchase from here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-kryographics-for-gtx-780-ti-acrylic-glass-edition.html


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherSharp*
> 
> Hi, how exactly do you control both the rad + fan and vram fan by GPU? Do I connect Molex powered PWM splitter to a VGA-PWM adapter and then to the graphics card fan header?
> I'm going to get NZXT G10 soon and I want all GPU fans and rad controlled by GPU temp in MSI Afterburner, but I'm still not sure how to do that.


You cannot control both from the GPU. I only recommend controlling the 92mm G10 fan with the VGA to PWM adapter because the amperage on the GPU's fan header is not always so powerful, and I think people in the past have blown out that header by trying to power a fan that they shouldn't have. Stick with the VGA to PWM adapter to control the 92mm fan, or a single 120mm radiator fan. No more than that.

You don't want all of your fans to be controlled via GPU temps, because the 92mm fan needs to be running at full speed at all times, while I doubt you want your radiator fan(s) at full speed. You can either plug the 92mm fan into a molex to PSU adapter so it runs at full speed, or to a motherboard header, again at full speed, or via VGA to PWM adapter, at full speed.

I think your best way of control would be a VGA to PWM adapter plugged into the radiator's 120mm fan, you just have to make damn sure that it is a very low amperage fan. Then set the 92mm fan to 100% via motherboard or PSU/molex adapter.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> Did u purchase from here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-kryographics-for-gtx-780-ti-acrylic-glass-edition.html


Yes sir. That was the only place I could find block in stock for my 780ti's that I could have over night to my place on Friday (today). For $59.99 each I couldn't pass them up. If I don't like them I can order different ones or mod those and make less restrictive if needed. Can't wait to setup my custom loop later after work. I picked up a 2nd pump so I can run 2 in my loop for safety and extra pressure. 2 rads, 2 gpu blocks, and cpu block is a good amount of parts and 2 pumps might be better off and then the one doesn't have to work as hard and then both should last a long time running them at say 70% each. Will update later


----------



## BrotherSharp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You cannot control both from the GPU. I only recommend controlling the 92mm G10 fan with the VGA to PWM adapter because the amperage on the GPU's fan header is not always so powerful, and I think people in the past have blown out that header by trying to power a fan that they shouldn't have. Stick with the VGA to PWM adapter to control the 92mm fan, or a single 120mm radiator fan. No more than that.
> 
> You don't want all of your fans to be controlled via GPU temps, because the 92mm fan needs to be running at full speed at all times, while I doubt you want your radiator fan(s) at full speed. You can either plug the 92mm fan into a molex to PSU adapter so it runs at full speed, or to a motherboard header, again at full speed, or via VGA to PWM adapter, at full speed.
> 
> I think your best way of control would be a VGA to PWM adapter plugged into the radiator's 120mm fan, you just have to make damn sure that it is a very low amperage fan. Then set the 92mm fan to 100% via motherboard or PSU/molex adapter.


Thanks Pinko, I understand the fan header on the graphics card is probably not powerful enough to run more than a single 92mm on G10. My confusion was more on the "molex powered PWM splitter". Tronderster mentioned using that kind of splitter to get PSU to power the fans while getting the speed control signal from GPU, that means both fans are not drawing power from GPU fan header but still controlled by GPU fan header right?

Now my plan is, if the 92mm fan needs to run at 100% all the time, then I just need GPU to control the rad fan, but the fan needs to draw power directly from PSU. Is this doable by connecting these two together?


----------



## Sempre

I got the Gelid VRM heatsink kit but was surprised that there were no vram heatsinks provided. Ive been searching for 20 minutes but still don't know if it's ok to use my R9 290 without Vram heatsinks.
Anyone thinks it's fine to use it without them for a couple of weeks until I buy some vram heatsinks?


----------



## d0mini

Anyone used this on a 980 or 970 STRIX card? Did you use extra cooling for the VRMs?


----------



## Hambone07si

G10's and H55's are coming off TODAY!! Sorry for such a short life with those, but they did work great to be honest. 45c Max Load temps with 69 degree ambient temps is nothing to be mad about. That was actually VERY good compared to the ACX coolers on air.

My water blocks and rest of my parts for my somewhat big custom loop are all here now and I will be installing the new setup tonight. Was fun tho trying out the G10's. Not bad for the money, not at all. I just got that itch again for wanting custom loop like I always do, so here's the blocks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Anyone used this on a 980 or 970 STRIX card? Did you use extra cooling for the VRMs?


The 980 strix has a heatsink over the vrms and it is plenty of cooling there. Install and enjoy. The 970 is a bit trickier, it has a heatsink on the vrms but you will need to put a fan over them to keep them cool. The difference being the vrms are located to the rear on the 980 and on the front of the PCB on the 970.


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Anyone used this on a 980 or 970 STRIX card? Did you use extra cooling for the VRMs?
> 
> 
> 
> The 980 strix has a heatsink over the vrms and it is plenty of cooling there. Install and enjoy. The 970 is a bit trickier, it has a heatsink on the vrms but you will need to put a fan over them to keep them cool. The difference being the vrms are located to the rear on the 980 and on the front of the PCB on the 970.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply







May I ask, are you using G10s on your 980s? If so, what VRM temps do you get?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherSharp*
> 
> Thanks Pinko, I understand the fan header on the graphics card is probably not powerful enough to run more than a single 92mm on G10. My confusion was more on the "molex powered PWM splitter". Tronderster mentioned using that kind of splitter to get PSU to power the fans while getting the speed control signal from GPU, that means both fans are not drawing power from GPU fan header but still controlled by GPU fan header right?
> 
> Now my plan is, if the 92mm fan needs to run at 100% all the time, then I just need GPU to control the rad fan, but the fan needs to draw power directly from PSU. Is this doable by connecting these two together?


In theory, it sounds like it should work. If Trondster is the one who has done this and had success, we should ask him, because now I am curious about this. This looks like a nice and elegant solution if it does indeed work and allow for PWM control for the radiator fans.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I got the Gelid VRM heatsink kit but was surprised that there were no vram heatsinks provided. Ive been searching for 20 minutes but still don't know if it's ok to use my R9 290 without Vram heatsinks.
> Anyone thinks it's fine to use it without them for a couple of weeks until I buy some vram heatsinks?


VRAM doesn't get hot, its the VRMs that get hot. The Gelid Heatsink has the VRMs covered, and that is the main thing. Install with confidence.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Anyone used this on a 980 or 970 STRIX card? Did you use extra cooling for the VRMs?


The Strix has a built in heatsink over the VRMs. The only issue is that the 970 has VRMs on the left side of the GPU die, which is undesirable. The 980 has the VRMs on the right side which is more desirable. Just because VRMs are on the left side doesn't mean the G10 won't work, it just means you have to buy some extras in order to get airflow over the left side of the GPU.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Thank you for the reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I ask, are you using G10s on your 980s? If so, what VRM temps do you get?


I will be using them on the 980s for sure, I have not had time to install them yet. I literally got both the 980s in this afternoon at ~3pm central







. I havnt even had time to drool on them appropriately yet.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> VRAM doesn't get hot, its the VRMs that get hot. The Gelid Heatsink has the VRMs covered, and that is the main thing. Install with confidence.


Thank you. I already went ahead and installed it and WOW, the noise..... It's not there. I'm not used to such silence.

Here's a pic of it. Excuse the mess. I conenected everything quickly just to make sure it works. I'll wory about the cables later.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Thank you. I already went ahead and installed it and WOW, the noise..... It's not there. I'm not used to such silence.
> 
> Here's a pic of it. Excuse the mess. I conenected everything quickly just to make sure it works. I'll wory about the cables later.


Very nice! Make sure that the 92mm fan is running at full speed.


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Thank you for the reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I ask, are you using G10s on your 980s? If so, what VRM temps do you get?
> 
> 
> 
> I will be using them on the 980s for sure, I have not had time to install them yet. I literally got both the 980s in this afternoon at ~3pm central
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I havnt even had time to drool on them appropriately yet.
Click to expand...

Ah, I see







I got my 980 only a few months ago, and I'm still drooling









Let me know how it goes! I already own a G10 and a spare AIO, so maybe I'll give it a shot when I have more time


----------



## zorvalth

Hi, which are r9 290/290x models which have backplate and vrm heatsinks? As far i found out these:

Power Color Turbo Duo
Power Color PCS+
Asus direct Cu
VTX 3D

Are there any other, and which of there is the best suited for g10? Any experienece?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Hi, which are r9 290/290x models which have backplate and vrm heatsinks? As far i found out these:
> 
> Power Color Turbo Duo
> Power Color PCS+
> Asus direct Cu
> VTX 3D
> 
> Are there any other, and which of there is the best suited for g10? Any experienece?


the only ones (of the group you listed) I have experience with in installing G-10s on are the ASUS Direct CU II and Strix versions. All made it a breeze to do the install. Ive done it on a 290x, multiple 970s, a pair of gtx 770s and fixing to do a pair of GTX 980s


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Hi, which are r9 290/290x models which have backplate and vrm heatsinks? As far i found out these:
> 
> Power Color Turbo Duo
> Power Color PCS+
> Asus direct Cu
> VTX 3D
> 
> Are there any other, and which of there is the best suited for g10? Any experienece?
> 
> 
> 
> the only ones (of the group you listed) I have experience with in installing G-10s on are the ASUS Direct CU II and Strix versions. All made it a breeze to do the install. Ive done it on a 290x, multiple 970s, a pair of gtx 770s and fixing to do a pair of GTX 980s
Click to expand...

Did you keep the backplate and vrm heatsink? How was the temp on the smaller vrm2?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Did you keep the backplate and vrm heatsink? How was the temp on the smaller vrm2?


i did keep the back plate and simply did not use the backplate that came with the G-10 kit. It isnt necessary if you already have a backplate. perhaps if the bolts are to long for your application you can use them to shorten things up a bit but its NOY necessary. I did keep the ASUS vrm heatsink, it performs nicely on all of the models I installed on with the exception of course being the 970 since they are on the wrong side of the GPU chip. For this I rigged up small fan to keep a moderate flow of air over the vrm heatsink. On th rest, the fan on the G-10 bracket was plenty of airflow to cool the VRMs. Unfortunately i do not recall the actual temp #s of the vrms under that condition but it was adequate for months of playing at the most intense settings I could. I hope that helps.


----------



## zorvalth

All of these models have heatsinks on the vrm1, but none on the small T-shape vrm2 which is between the core and vga ports. I was wondering how do they keep cool because the g10 has nothing to cool them...

p.s. Actaully PCS+ has heatsink on the vrm2 also, but i only found one person installed g10 on pcs+ and he had some temp issues, anybody else?


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Did you keep the backplate and vrm heatsink? How was the temp on the smaller vrm2?


I installed a G10 / H55 combo onto one of my Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duos.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/3080#post_23767832
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/3130#post_23788787

My 2nd one, I'll be using a Pulse Modding GPU bracket. Is there any more information you need when I take it apart hopefully this weekend?


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I installed a G10 / H55 combo onto one of my Powercolor R9 290 Turbo Duos.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/3080#post_23767832
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/3130#post_23788787
> 
> My 2nd one, I'll be using a Pulse Modding GPU bracket. Is there any more information you need when I take it apart hopefully this weekend?


This card looks, very nice for G10, it has the smae heatsinks for the vrm as PCS+ and also vram sinks. The backplate is kind of ugly but still nice card for g10.


----------



## Theboy995

It has been great! but I have a question, where is connected the radiator fan, fan NZXT and most importantly, where the water pump is connected if we already have concectada water pump cpu in cpuopt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devolved*
> 
> So I've installed both the G10's.
> 
> After playing BF4 for 30mins I was getting 55c on the core and VRM 1 + 2 at 48c and 61c.
> Last night I was playing for maybe 2 hours and never went above 60c on the core at 70% fan utilization which is roughly 2100RPM, which still doesn't make enough sound to annoy me.
> 
> I have crossfire VTX-3D R9 290 on Kraken x31 coolers using EK Furious Vardar FF5 3000RPM.
> on the G10 I have Zalman ZM-F2, I got them because they have red LEDs but it's also got a good RPM, top speed is 2,800RPM which is way too loud for me, especially two of them so used the silencer to knock it down to 1,500RPM which makes them silent with their rubber attachments.
> 
> Considering I was getting 85c the other day....knocking 85 down to 55 is pretty damn nice, although I did get 60c after a few hours of gaming if I adjusted the fan curve I could probably reduce that, the other fans in the case run at quite a low RPM to keep noise to a minimum.
> When I first booted up I had the front two and exhaust fans running at full speed making the GPU idle temp at 26c, but the noise is too much.
> 
> Oh yeah the TIM I used was Arctic Silver 5.
> I didn't end up using any heatsinks as my card already has them on as someone had previously posted my cards details a few pages back showing this, but I suffer from cretinous dissonance from time to time, almost constantly, but hey If I get a card in the future that doesn't have auto heatsinks then I'm ready haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Silverstone FHP141 as exhaust, with two Coolermaster JetFlo on the front, one blowing over 3 hard drives and the bottom one blows straight onto the EK Vardar.
> 
> biggup everyone on this thread for all the help.


----------



## Hambone07si

Well the G10/H55 combos are out now and the full custom loop is in. The AIO g10/h55 on my 2 780ti's only lasted 2 weeks before pulling them lol. Was it worth the change? Yes it was. My max temps on the aio's were 45/46c Load 69 (20c) degree ambient, and now with the water blocks and full loop my max Load temps are 36/37c but with 71 (22c) degree ambient. I'm sure if I have my ambient at 20c like before my load temps would be 35c .. So going to the full custom loop I dropped 10c total. That's really good IMO, and this is with just PUSH on my new rads, and I was on PUSH / PULL on the H55's. So now the system is using less power and is way quieter plus running way cooler. Going from the H110 on my cpu, I had 82c max load temps and now is only 66c, so that dropped 16c with 2c higher ambient. Not to bad I'd say









@ Pinko, I have my magical shims LOL that are out of my system now and not really needed anymore. Maybe I can pass them down to someone else that could use them in the future. I know for a fact that mine are perfectly flat and I lapped them. Not sure why mine work so much better than the ordered ones, but Vulcan got his new shims that are the same as mine almost exactly and he's getting 10c higher temps than I was getting both of us using push/pull on the H55's. Maybe the orderable ones aren't that flat or just made bad?

The new loop
\


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Well the G10/H55 combos are out now and the full custom loop is in. The AIO g10/h55 on my 2 780ti's only lasted 2 weeks before pulling them lol. Was it worth the change? Yes it was. My max temps on the aio's were 45/46c Load 69 (20c) degree ambient, and now with the water blocks and full loop my max Load temps are 36/37c but with 71 (22c) degree ambient. I'm sure if I have my ambient at 20c like before my load temps would be 35c .. So going to the full custom loop I dropped 10c total. That's really good IMO, and this is with just PUSH on my new rads, and I was on PUSH / PULL on the H55's. So now the system is using less power and is way quieter plus running way cooler. Going from the H110 on my cpu, I had 82c max load temps and now is only 66c, so that dropped 16c with 2c higher ambient. Not to bad I'd say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Pinko, I have my magical shims LOL that are out of my system now and not really needed anymore. Maybe I can pass them down to someone else that could use them in the future. I know for a fact that mine are perfectly flat and I lapped them. Not sure why mine work so much better than the ordered ones, but Vulcan got his new shims that are the same as mine almost exactly and he's getting 10c higher temps than I was getting both of us using push/pull on the H55's. Maybe the orderable ones aren't that flat or just made bad?
> 
> The new loop


Very nice! Those waterblocks for only $60ea were an absolute steal!

So the G10s with the lowest end AIO available, the H55 delivered roughly 80% of the performance of a custom loop. How much radiator space do you have? 240mm x 45mm and a 360mm x 30mm?

I dunno either with Vulcan. I got my shims ordered from Frozen CPU before they shut down and mine work very well, so no idea why he is having bad experience.


----------



## Hambone07si

Both rads are the same thickness of 38mm on the shrouds. the rads are actually thinner. The shrouds can be removed from the actual rad and then painted easy. but they made the shrouds thicker than the rad so it acts like a spacer and gets the fans away from the core of the rad and the fans push more air over the whole core and minimizes the hub size on the fan. Pretty cool idea. They are both EK PE rads, a 240mm and 360mm with 2 pumps running at separate ends of the loop. There is very little restriction in my whole loop this time around and the water flows pretty quick. The water temp doesn't get much warmer across the whole run either. I'm pretty much at the max of what standard water cooling can do. I could add my quad rad 480mm that's around 60mm or more thick to this loop and it won't drop my temps any on my cards I bet. Maybe 1c at most. Plus I got both rads as intake so they are pushing ambient air into both and it goes from the cpu to the 240mm to get cooled before going into the gpu's, then to the 360mm to take any heat from the 2 gpu's away. Just tried to make sure everything would run as cool as it could this time and it worked out great!! The pc is A LOT quieter now then with 3 AIO's in push/pull.

yeah, I got a pretty sick deal on the water blocks this time too. $60 for water blocks is a steal. Could get the one pump/res combo I have for $100 and a 240 or 360 rad for $40-60 and have a custom loop just on gpu's for $260-280 and be cooling way more the the g10/h55 combos, and for about the same price really when you add in ordering shims and heat sinks and different fans for the g10, and push/pull setup on the h55's. Might be good to do a little searching and put together a good, cheap but decent custom loop for some people if they want to go that route instead. Then it's upgradable to do cpu for cheap too. Just an idea.

I wish I had the temp gun from work here at home so I could recheck the back of my cards now and see the temps of the whole thing like I showed in that one pic I edited. I would like to see how good these Aquacomputers Kryographics gpu blocks are doing on the VRMS, I'm sure the memory is real cold as each chip was done with TIM and I did a check when installing them to see how well they pushed against them. They spread the TIM out like they were individual water blocks for each memory chip lol. I highly recommend these same gpu block to everyone that wants custom loops.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Both rads are the same thickness of 38mm on the shrouds. the rads are actually thinner. The shrouds can be removed from the actual rad and then painted easy. but they made the shrouds thicker than the rad so it acts like a spacer and gets the fans away from the core of the rad and the fans push more air over the whole core and minimizes the hub size on the fan. Pretty cool idea. They are both EK PE rads, a 240mm and 360mm with 2 pumps running at separate ends of the loop. There is very little restriction in my whole loop this time around and the water flows pretty quick. The water temp doesn't get much warmer across the whole run either. I'm pretty much at the max of what standard water cooling can do. I could add my quad rad 480mm that's around 60mm or more thick to this loop and it won't drop my temps any on my cards I bet. Maybe 1c at most. Plus I got both rads as intake so they are pushing ambient air into both and it goes from the cpu to the 240mm to get cooled before going into the gpu's, then to the 360mm to take any heat from the 2 gpu's away. Just tried to make sure everything would run as cool as it could this time and it worked out great!! The pc is A LOT quieter now then with 3 AIO's in push/pull.
> 
> yeah, I got a pretty sick deal on the water blocks this time too. $60 for water blocks is a steal. Could get the one pump/res combo I have for $100 and a 240 or 360 rad for $40-60 and have a custom loop just on gpu's for $260-280 and be cooling way more the the g10/h55 combos, and for about the same price really when you add in ordering shims and heat sinks and different fans for the g10, and push/pull setup on the h55's. Might be good to do a little searching and put together a good, cheap but decent custom loop for some people if they want to go that route instead. Then it's upgradable to do cpu for cheap too. Just an idea.
> 
> I wish I had the temp gun from work here at home so I could recheck the back of my cards now and see the temps of the whole thing like I showed in that one pic I edited. I would like to see how good these Aquacomputers Kryographics gpu blocks are doing on the VRMS, I'm sure the memory is real cold as each chip was done with TIM and I did a check when installing them to see how well they pushed against them. They spread the TIM out like they were individual water blocks for each memory chip lol. I highly recommend these same gpu block to everyone that wants custom loops.


I've never seen waterblocks as cheap as $60 ea, so that skews things positively towards custom, they are usually $100-$120 each.
pump + reservoir combo for $100
240mm x 30mm radiator is $50
$50+ in tubing, fans, fittings, and coolant

Without that deal, its more like $300 minimum for a single GPU.

G10 Bracket can be had from $10-$30
H55 which is all you need is $50
2nd fan is $8-$15
Copper Shim which is not always necessary is $2-$6
VGA to PWM Adapter which is optional is $6
Thermal Pads /Thermal Tape is $2-$6
20pcs Aluminum Heatsinks are $6

It equals out to $120 per GPU which is assuming the most expensive prices for everything. Getting it all for $100 flat is very doable and some of those parts are optional or not required depending on your card.

I actually read this R9 290X WaterBlock Roundup and I was actually really surprised that some full cover waterblocks don't cool the VRMs very well, albeit this is very rare and seemed to be limited to just Swiftech and Aquacomputer in the test. Those two blocks were reporting a delta of 70C on VRM1! That is crazy for a full cover waterblock. The rest performed very well with deltas of 35-55.

EDIT* I actually just looked and saw that the ones you got are Aquacomputer 780Ti Waterblocks! Check out this review... Almost 55C Delta on the VRMs with that waterblock. It isn't the exact same model, but it is very close, and this is now two bad showing of VRM temps with AquaComputer GPU Waterblocks. Maybe you should get that heat gun again.

When you compare that result to the result @VSG got during his G10,HG10,Custom Watercooling roundup, with added heatsinks on VRM1, the VRM1 delta of the R9 290 with a G10 is at a meager 22-28C depending on 92mm fan speed! I think its safe to say once you add some heatsinks to your G10, you are getting very comparable results to a full cover waterblock. Of course, this is with an R9 290, so I don't know how well it translates to Nvidia cards, but this is a very compelling argument for excellent performance from the G10 + Heatsinks for around $100.

I also don't run my X31 radiator fans very hard, I have them running at 1250rpm, which is 50%. I don't have them ramp up when gaming, just a constant 50% at all times, even when idle. Controlled through Fan Xpert. Sitting two feet away with case at head level, I am getting a reading of 46 Dba using Sound Meter Lite App on my phone when playing BF4 for an extended period of time.


----------



## Hambone07si

Yeah I seen that review, but you must not of read the "Edit at the bottom of that review showing that they changed the block design and all data was not relevant anymore" . The blocks I have are the newer non restricted versions, but yes I still want to check the VRM temps with the gun just to see. The blocks are making great contact with the VRM's as I had plenty of thermal pad. I only used half the thermal pad from one package to do both blocks and I did a test fit before final mounting. I put a small amount of TIM on each memory chip, gpu die, and thermal pads on the vrm's and then mounted the block. Then took it off to see how the TIM was spread out with the amount I used and also checked the thermal pads for good mounting pressure. They were great so cleaned them up and mounted for good. The VRM's can't be running that hot with the 2nd version blocks. I will check tho.

Look at the very bottom where they edited their review


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> Yeah I seen that review, but you must not of read the "Edit at the bottom of that review showing that they changed the block design and all data was not relevant anymore" . The blocks I have are the newer non restricted versions, but yes I still want to check the VRM temps with the gun just to see. The blocks are making great contact with the VRM's as I had plenty of thermal pad. I only used half the thermal pad from one package to do both blocks and I did a test fit before final mounting. I put a small amount of TIM on each memory chip, gpu die, and thermal pads on the vrm's and then mounted the block. Then took it off to see how the TIM was spread out with the amount I used and also checked the thermal pads for good mounting pressure. They were great so cleaned them up and mounted for good. The VRM's can't be running that hot with the 2nd version blocks. I will check tho.
> 
> Look at the very bottom where they edited their review


Ahh I missed that, GOOD! I'm glad they fixed their design, that would have sucked!


----------



## Nagamayasi

*ASUS GTX 780 Ti DC2 OC + G10 + H75*

- ASUS GTX 780 Ti DC2 OC
- NZXT KRAKEN G10
- CORSAIR H75
- PASTA shin etsu
- VRAM Heatsink PC Cooler 2 PACK
=======================================
NZXT FAN connect to Motherboard chasis FAN
H75 FAN Connect to Motherboard Chasis fan
H75 Pump Connect to 12V
=======================================
Stock Cooler ASUS GTX 780 Ti playing watchdogs GPU Temp 70 ºC
ASUS GTX 780 Ti + G10 + H75 playing watchdogs GPU Temp max 50 ºC But VRM Temp Very Hot 90 ºC
















GPU-ZSensorLog.txt 644k .txt file

==========================================================


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: ASUS GTX 780 Ti DC2 OC









Spoiler: VRAM HEATSINK









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@nagamayasi

Very nice man, great pictures too. The VRAM heatsinks aren't really necessary as VRAM doesn't get hot enough to worry about, but I guess it can't hurt to have it. I hope they don't fall off, some people have said those copper heatsinks fall off after a few weeks.

Those VRM temperatures are really surprising. Especially considering you have a built in heatsink. Is the NZXT 92mm fan running at full speed? I see you have it plugged into your motherboard, make sure to set it to 100% in Fan Xpert. Don't worry, its not loud even at full speed. What were VRM temps with the stock cooler?


----------



## Ultisym

980 transplant went well. Both are idling at ~32C max of 58C (so far, I have not played a whole lot) and the vrms are at 58C.


----------



## devolved

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theboy995*
> 
> It has been great! but I have a question, where is connected the radiator fan, fan NZXT and most importantly, where the water pump is connected if we already have concectada water pump cpu in cpuopt


Using fan splitters.
I use a single Y splitter which takes both 3-pin pump connectors to any motherboard fan connector, I connect my pumps to the bottom CHA2 connector I think....it doesn't matter where you connect them it's just to power them, they run fine from a Y splitter.
I have an Asus ROG motherboard and use their AI Suite software to calibrate the fans, it realises that the pumps aren't fans and leaves it alone and runs full speed.
I don't plug in the USB connector for the pump because I want it to run full speed and it makes loads of grinding noises when it tries to regulate its speed.

I use another single Y splitter to the motherboard which takes both 3-pin G10 bracket fans....which run full speed automatically, othewise if your fan has PWM set it to DC in bios.

I use the Gelid GPU fan connector to connect the radiator fans to the graphics card.
Then use MSI Afterburner and set a fan curve to whatever speed you want them to run in relation to the heat they create.

I then use a 5-way splitter to molex to PSU for the other 3 case fans, because they draw too much power to run off a single motherboard connector.


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nagamayasi*
> 
> *ASUS GTX 780 Ti DC2 OC + G10 + H75*
> 
> - ASUS GTX 780 Ti DC2 OC
> - NZXT KRAKEN G10
> - CORSAIR H75
> - PASTA shin etsu
> - VRAM Heatsink PC Cooler 2 PACK
> =======================================
> NZXT FAN connect to Motherboard chasis FAN
> H75 FAN Connect to Motherboard Chasis fan
> H75 Pump Connect to 12V
> =======================================
> Stock Cooler ASUS GTX 780 Ti playing watchdogs GPU Temp 70 ºC
> ASUS GTX 780 Ti + G10 + H75 playing watchdogs GPU Temp max 50 ºC But VRM Temp Very Hot 90 ºC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU-ZSensorLog.txt 644k .txt file
> 
> ==========================================================
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ASUS GTX 780 Ti DC2 OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: VRAM HEATSINK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I see from your pic's that you have the Corsair water block 180 degrees the opposite way as intended. Your hose are coming out from the bottom by the pci-e connector. Just make sure that your card plugs in with no pressure of the tubes pushing it out at all. Wouldn't want you card to be pushed out of the slot while it was powered up. Could be instant death







.. Just wanted to let you know.

@ Pinko, I went out and bought my own nice laser temp gun today so I don't have to keep bringing the one I have at work home. I let Heaven run for 20min at extreme settings so both my cards were at 98-100% utilization. I then checked the VRM temps on the back side of the cards to see how warm they are now with the water blocks installed vs the G10/H55 combo's. Before with the G10/H55 my VRM's were around 75c on the backside and around 45c around the memory area. Now with custom loop and gpu blocks I'm seeing a max of 48-50c at the warmest point around VRM's and only 32-35c around the memory. Both gpu's were showing temps of 36/37c in PX on my logitech keyboard screen, and the backside of the card where the gpu die is was showing only 37-38c during the benchmark. So I'd have to say that's a really good drop in temps and these blocks are A LOT better than their first design that showed really high VRM temps. Best gpu block you can buy for only $59.99 each, that's for dame sure







.

I was just at Microcenter getting the temp gun and a multimeter and they have a EVGA Titan X sitting there just CALLING my name!! I almost walked out with it. I had to really hold back on not buying it. It would be more of a sidegrade/downgrade tho vs my 780ti Sli setup. I'm not running 4K, only running 1440p so I don't need the 12gigs of Vram. Would be a nice card to have, but I'll wait til Pascal to come out and see what it offers and then I'll buy the "ti" version when they release that about 6 months later.


----------



## devx

Can someone tell me if the kraken g10 is compatible with the gigabyte gtx 980 g1 gaming? I have been research for weeks and haven't gotten a solid answer to this. The card has a phenomenal windforce cooler on it, I would just like to see lower temps during gaming. Thanks!


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devx*
> 
> Can someone tell me if the kraken g10 is compatible with the gigabyte gtx 980 g1 gaming? I have been research for weeks and haven't gotten a solid answer to this. The card has a phenomenal windforce cooler on it, I would just like to see lower temps during gaming. Thanks!


I'm 87% sure it is..


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devx*
> 
> Can someone tell me if the kraken g10 is compatible with the gigabyte gtx 980 g1 gaming? I have been research for weeks and haven't gotten a solid answer to this. The card has a phenomenal windforce cooler on it, I would just like to see lower temps during gaming. Thanks!


If I were you I'd get the cheaper dual fan windforce variant since you're not going to use the cooler anyways and they have the EXACT same PCB.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devx*
> 
> Can someone tell me if the kraken g10 is compatible with the gigabyte gtx 980 g1 gaming? I have been research for weeks and haven't gotten a solid answer to this. The card has a phenomenal windforce cooler on it, I would just like to see lower temps during gaming. Thanks!




From what i can see from the (admittedly 1st pic of your version i found), the only problem is a lack of heatsink attached to the vrms. Appears to be part of the removable cooler. Anyway, the G-10 will work fine but if you do not have a heatsink on the vrms, you will have to address this before using the g-10.


----------



## devx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> 
> 
> From what i can see from the (admittedly 1st pic of your version i found), the only problem is a lack of heatsink attached to the vrms. Appears to be part of the removable cooler. Anyway, the G-10 will work fine but if you do not have a heatsink on the vrms, you will have to address this before using the g-10.


Yes, it is part of the windforce cooler. Ive also been looking in to how to cool the vrms...outside of 20 something odd copper heatsinks (which I don't think will fit properly). Also here are some close ups of the card.


----------



## Ultisym

Can you remove the vrm heatsink from the cooler? The screw holes are all there.


----------



## devx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Can you remove the vrm heatsink from the cooler? The screw holes are all there.


I'm not sure, I'll have to give it a go.

Also, I haven't torn mine down yet, those are pictures I found. I've been looking to see if someone has done a complete teardown of the cooler, but I haven't found anything indicating the vrm heat sink is removable.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Can you remove the vrm heatsink from the cooler? The screw holes are all there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devx*
> 
> I'm not sure, I'll have to give it a go.
> 
> Also, I haven't torn mine down yet, those are pictures I found. I've been looking to see if someone has done a complete teardown of the cooler, but I haven't found anything indicating the vrm heat sink is removable.


That is an excellent idea Ultisym, it does look like the VRM heatsink might be detachable from the main cooler. If it is, then its just a matter of finding the right screws to get it to screw down into the PCB instead of the cooler.

If not, you can always buy your own thermal pads and heatsinks($12)

Thermal Pads
Aluminum Heatsinks

First remove the included thermal tape that comes pre-applied on the bottom of the aluminum heatsinks. You should then clean the bottom of these heatsinks with isopropyl alcohol.

Next, you will apply the thermal pads over the VRMs so that it looks like this:


Once the thermal pads are in place, you will put the cleaned aluminum heatsinks on top of the thermal pads. Press them down, not too firm, not too gentle, use your best judgement, you want a good bond to form. Let them sit for an hour or two before placing into your chassis.


----------



## devx

This weekend I'll be tearing down my rig to move to a custom built chassis, so I'll have to dig into this a little more and take the GPU cooler off to investigate and get some measurements. I'm not sure about using the aluminum heatsinks due to there being three rows of vrm's and towards the top of the card there is a capacitor sitting very close to that first row of vrms. I'll post my findings this weekend when I get it torn down. Thanks for all the help!


----------



## long99x

I plan buy kraken G10 and H55 to cool my Asus r9 290 dc2, will it fit ?
thanks


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *long99x*
> 
> I plan buy kraken G10 and H55 to cool my Asus r9 290 dc2, will it fit ?
> thanks


Yes it will.


This is your PCB, it comes with a built-in heatsink over the VRMs, so no extras will be needed, they are optional. I do recommend that you buy a 2nd 120mm fan for your H55, and you could also consider some high end thermal compound: Gelid GC Extreme, IC Diamond, MX-4, NT-H1, Prolimatech PK-3. Lastly, a VGA to PWM adapter so you can plug the 92mm fan into the GPU, freeing up a motherboard fan header. run this fan at 100% at all times.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> This card looks, very nice for G10, it has the smae heatsinks for the vrm as PCS+ and also vram sinks. The backplate is kind of ugly but still nice card for g10.


Over this past weekend, I took apart the cooling of my 2nd (but older) Powercolor R9 290 TurboDuo to put on an H55 with a Pulse Modding GPU bracket and noticed it looked different. I don't know the manufacturing dates but the stock cooler has a sticker with a date.



Marked 20140225 (Assumption of February 25, 2014)





Marked 20140302 (Assumption of March 2, 2014. Sorry, don't have better pictures of the VRM headsinks since I am not taking it apart again anytime soon)




The "earlier" one has a BIOS switch near VRM2 (smaller VRM) while the "later" one has bigger VRM heatsinks with what I assume more VRMs. Have not looked closer to see if there were any other differences nor have I compared serial numbers.

Here's a side-by-side comparison.



These cards were purchased 2 months apart earlier this year. This is the stock unit and packaging just in case you're wondering.



*EDIT:* Okay, the heatsink date is not indicative of the manufacture date of the video card, just the heatsink fan. I just noticed that one is LF R29F (reference design) while the other is LF R29F*A*, a cheaper revision as note by a poster here and references a Finnish site showing the changes.

I haven't tried overclocking either as the LF R29F one is in my wife's rig now and the LF R29FA one has been pulled out for some work (my PSU died and I wanted to reseat the H55 anyways because the temps weren't right). With that said, using the Pulse Modding GPU bracket with a 92mm Zalman F2 FDB, the VRMs top off at 70°C which isn't bad. The H55 exhausts the heat out for now.


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> Over this past weekend, I took apart the cooling of my 2nd (but older) Powercolor R9 290 TurboDuo to put on an H55 with a Pulse Modding GPU bracket and noticed it looked different. I don't know the manufacturing...


I think that bot revisions of PCS+ are the same. As much as i read in the PCS+ thread the newer revision with smaller sinks is worse, i dont know why...


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> I think that bot revisions of PCS+ are the same. As much as i read in the PCS+ thread the newer revision with smaller sinks is worse, i dont know why...


Cheaper components I guess. The poster speculates:
Quote:


> List of changes include replacing DirectFET Mosfets with cheaper Powerblock-mosfets, and reducing the amount of condensators. They've also changed the memory to be fed by a single phase of power instead of 2. I don't know how these changes affect the cards in practice, but obviously this means less costs to the manufacturer with cheaper Chinese components.


----------



## long99x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yes it will.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is your PCB, it comes with a built-in heatsink over the VRMs, so no extras will be needed, they are optional. I do recommend that you buy a 2nd 120mm fan for your H55, and you could also consider some high end thermal compound: Gelid GC Extreme, IC Diamond, MX-4, NT-H1, Prolimatech PK-3. Lastly, a VGA to PWM adapter so you can plug the 92mm fan into the GPU, freeing up a motherboard fan header. run this fan at 100% at all times.


thank you very much, I afraid it won't fit, thermal compound I use is CLU, the place where I live only have Laird TFlex thermal pad, is it good


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *long99x*
> 
> thank you very much, I afraid it won't fit, thermal compound I use is CLU, the place where I live only have Laird TFlex thermal pad, is it good


CLU is fine, you just have to be super, super careful because that stuff isn't the easiest to use. You have to be so careful that none of it gets anywhere other than the GPU die.

You don't need to buy the thermal pads? Your GPU is ready for the G10 without any extras. If you do want to buy some extras, you could buy a 2nd 120mm fan for the radiator, a stronger 92mm fan(really not necessary unless VRM temps are higher than you would like), and a VGA to PWM Adapter


----------



## long99x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> CLU is fine, you just have to be super, super careful because that stuff isn't the easiest to use. You have to be so careful that none of it gets anywhere other than the GPU die.
> 
> You don't need to buy the thermal pads? Your GPU is ready for the G10 without any extras. If you do want to buy some extras, you could buy a 2nd 120mm fan for the radiator, a stronger 92mm fan(really not necessary unless VRM temps are higher than you would like), and a VGA to PWM Adapter


Thank you again









I will use mx4 for my gpu


----------



## zorvalth

I've been looking for used VTX 3D or Turbo DUO for the last 2 weeks, because it looks the best card for kraken G10 because of all the heatsinks it has on vrm1, vrm2 and vram but i couldnt find one. I was thinking of PCS+ but i'm a little scared of all the black screen issues. So i think the only one left with backplate and heatsinks is asus directcu. I saw a picture of instalation of kraken on DCU but couldnt find any info for the vrm2, because i dont see any heatsinks there. IS there somebody here with kraken and asus dcu installation?

p.s. just found this post http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/2380#post_23270549 it looks way to many mods, is there somebody wlse who used only the kraken and the g10 with no extra sinks?


----------



## riadran

Hi all! In the middle of a post-install G10 ordeal (after dealing with a mid-install ordeal of a new power supply) and needed some advice.

I installed the G10 onto my Gigabyte R9 280X Windforce Rev 1 after much difficulty. As of right now, my GPU die temps have never been better, and it stays extremely cool with no issues during Valley @ 1600x900. However, whenever I try to OC the unit, or whenever I run the benchmark or GTAV @ fullscreen 1440p, It runs for about 2-3 minutes then starts flickering, and will eventually go to patterned, color screen and lock up the machine until I reboot. The unit was not experiencing any issues before the install, and was running a mild overclock on air with average temps under load of 79-80C(but loud as hell.)

I installed copper memory heatsinks on the card using 3M thermal pads, and the stock card comes with a VRM heatsink pre-installed as seen here. I run a power supply with 150w+ overhead, and it persists even at stock clocks. The temperature listed on the GPU die never rises above 50C, and the VRM on this card does not come with a temperature sensor as far as I have been able to locate via software. I'm using a Corsair H75 cooler, Noctua NTH1 and have verified good contact with the die. The GPU fan is hooked directly into the motherboard and is set to run @100%, the pump is set the same as well.

At this point, I'm suspecting the VRM is overheating, due to the fact that I don't get any artifacts or stutters, it usually goes from 100% to dead, unless I'm able to end the benchmark extremely fast.

Any tips?


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riadran*
> 
> Hi all! In the middle of a post-install G10 ordeal (after dealing with a mid-install ordeal of a new power supply) and needed some advice.
> 
> I installed the G10 onto my Gigabyte R9 280X Windforce Rev 1 after much difficulty. As of right now, my GPU die temps have never been better, and it stays extremely cool with no issues during Valley @ 1600x900. However, whenever I try to OC the unit, or whenever I run the benchmark or GTAV @ fullscreen 1440p, It runs for about 2-3 minutes then starts flickering, and will eventually go to patterned, color screen and lock up the machine until I reboot. The unit was not experiencing any issues before the install, and was running a mild overclock on air with average temps under load of 79-80C(but loud as hell.)
> 
> I installed copper memory heatsinks on the card using 3M thermal pads, and the stock card comes with a VRM heatsink pre-installed as seen here. I run a power supply with 150w+ overhead, and it persists even at stock clocks. The temperature listed on the GPU die never rises above 50C, and the VRM on this card does not come with a temperature sensor as far as I have been able to locate via software. I'm using a Corsair H75 cooler, Noctua NTH1 and have verified good contact with the die. The GPU fan is hooked directly into the motherboard and is set to run @100%, the pump is set the same as well.
> 
> At this point, I'm suspecting the VRM is overheating, due to the fact that I don't get any artifacts or stutters, it usually goes from 100% to dead, unless I'm able to end the benchmark extremely fast.
> 
> Any tips?


Sounds like vrm is overheating to me as well. Maybe try changing the direction of the air flow for the 92mm fan.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riadran*
> 
> Hi all! In the middle of a post-install G10 ordeal (after dealing with a mid-install ordeal of a new power supply) and needed some advice.
> 
> I installed the G10 onto my Gigabyte R9 280X Windforce Rev 1 after much difficulty. As of right now, my GPU die temps have never been better, and it stays extremely cool with no issues during Valley @ 1600x900. However, whenever I try to OC the unit, or whenever I run the benchmark or GTAV @ fullscreen 1440p, It runs for about 2-3 minutes then starts flickering, and will eventually go to patterned, color screen and lock up the machine until I reboot. The unit was not experiencing any issues before the install, and was running a mild overclock on air with average temps under load of 79-80C(but loud as hell.)
> 
> I installed copper memory heatsinks on the card using 3M thermal pads, and the stock card comes with a VRM heatsink pre-installed as seen here. I run a power supply with 150w+ overhead, and it persists even at stock clocks. The temperature listed on the GPU die never rises above 50C, and the VRM on this card does not come with a temperature sensor as far as I have been able to locate via software. I'm using a Corsair H75 cooler, Noctua NTH1 and have verified good contact with the die. The GPU fan is hooked directly into the motherboard and is set to run @100%, the pump is set the same as well.
> 
> At this point, I'm suspecting the VRM is overheating, due to the fact that I don't get any artifacts or stutters, it usually goes from 100% to dead, unless I'm able to end the benchmark extremely fast.
> 
> Any tips?


Surprising that your card doesn't come with VRM monitoring. Have you tried HWiNFO? GPU-Z?

Usually, cards with built in heatsinks respond very well to the G10 mod. Try removing your overclock? Could also try reinstalling the stock heatsink/cooler to see if this is indeed a problem with the G10.

When you say the GPU fan, do you mean the 92mm fan? Try plugging it into the PSU also, or try buying a higher end 92mm fan. The Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm fan is cheap, and blows a ton of air.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Surprising that your card doesn't come with VRM monitoring. Have you tried HWiNFO? GPU-Z?


I can tell you GPU-Z doesn't show VRM temps on my R9 270. I suppose his R9 280X is similar.


----------



## riadran

Well, I tried the fans both ways (its giving great airflow the proper way, I can feel the pressure clearly on the sides of the card), reseated, put heatsinks on every chip that even looks like VRM (there are 4 of the on the left side of the card), burned through an entire tube of NTH1, and replaced EVERY thermal pad for the existing VRAM heatsinks, and no dice. Its now starting to flicker on flash videos in Chrome with the die temp at 32C, so I'm going to scrap the entire thing and get a new GPU. Not really ideal, but the Windforce cooler was failing, and I've voided basically every warranty that could be thought of. I'm tired of dealing with it, I've probably put 20+ hours and 50+ dollars in non-recoverable thermal pads, thermal compound and heatsinks on this card.

Anyone have any suggestions for the easiest 970 to install the Kraken on, preferably around the $300 mark? I want it as simple as possible, so good vram heatsinks included are preferred. As little DIY needed as can be, basically want to remove the stock cooler, slap on the G10 and thermal paste and let it rip. I'm pretty good at putting it together and mounting it now.









Hazardz is correct, the 280X Windforce does not have any other temp sensors besides GPU die.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riadran*
> 
> Well, I tried the fans both ways (its giving great airflow the proper way, I can feel the pressure clearly on the sides of the card), reseated, put heatsinks on every chip that even looks like VRM (there are 4 of the on the left side of the card), burned through an entire tube of NTH1, and replaced EVERY thermal pad for the existing VRAM heatsinks, and no dice. Its now starting to flicker on flash videos in Chrome with the die temp at 32C, so I'm going to scrap the entire thing and get a new GPU. Not really ideal, but the Windforce cooler was failing, and I've voided basically every warranty that could be thought of. I'm tired of dealing with it, I've probably put 20+ hours and 50+ dollars in non-recoverable thermal pads, thermal compound and heatsinks on this card.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions for the easiest 970 to install the Kraken on, preferably around the $300 mark? I want it as simple as possible, so good vram heatsinks included are preferred. As little DIY needed as can be, basically want to remove the stock cooler, slap on the G10 and thermal paste and let it rip. I'm pretty good at putting it together and mounting it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hazardz is correct, the 280X Windforce does not have any other temp sensors besides GPU die.


I think you went overboard and should have asked us first before proceeding.

You might be confusing VRAM and VRMs. The VRMs are covered, you don't need to do anything to them. Also, the VRAM which are the black chips surrounding the GPU die, they don't get hot enough to have to worry about. You also aren't supposed to put thermal paste on them, that was a big no-no.

Did you try putting the Windforce cooler back on before doing all of those mods? That is what I asked you to do so that we could isolate the problem to figure out if its the GPU or the G10 causing this.

All 970s have the VRMs on the left side of the GPU die. You want it to be on the right side. You can add some extras, like an Antec Spot Cool to get airflow on the left side of the GPU die.

Have you tried putting the Windforce cooler back on? You probably have to clean your card really well too.


----------



## riadran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I think you went overboard and should have asked us first before proceeding.
> 
> You might be confusing VRAM and VRMs. The VRMs are covered, you don't need to do anything to them. Also, the VRAM which are the black chips surrounding the GPU die, they don't get hot enough to have to worry about. You also aren't supposed to put thermal paste on them, that was a big no-no.
> 
> Did you try putting the Windforce cooler back on before doing all of those mods? That is what I asked you to do so that we could isolate the problem to figure out if its the GPU or the G10 causing this.
> 
> All 970s have the VRMs on the left side of the GPU die. You want it to be on the right side. You can add some extras, like an Antec Spot Cool to get airflow on the left side of the GPU die.
> 
> Have you tried putting the Windforce cooler back on? You probably have to clean your card really well too.


I'll put the Windforce back on tonight. The mods are a simple replacement of paste + pads and addition of heatsinks on the VRAM, so it shouldn't change much, the old pads weren't making great contact after ~2 years of constant use anyways. I'll remove the heatsinks when re-attaching the stock cooler.

I didn't put thermal paste on the VRM/VRAM, all thermal pads, and am aware of the relative locations on the PCB (VRAM: Large chips around GPU Die, VRM: Smaller chips on right under heatsink) I was referring to how much NTH1 I've burned through taking off/putting on the H75 block in the process of troubleshooting.

Good to know about the 970. Some of the models I've seen come with a VRM heatsink already installed, would that be enough, or is a fan needed? Thank you for your help, I figured that water-cooling a GPU would be harder than the CPU, but I didn't expect it to be this frustrating. I avoided a Custom-Loop solution for that reason. Looking forward to posting some pictures up once I get it stable.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riadran*
> 
> Good to know about the 970. Some of the models I've seen come with a VRM heatsink already installed, would that be enough, or is a fan needed? Thank you for your help, I figured that water-cooling a GPU would be harder than the CPU, but I didn't expect it to be this frustrating. I avoided a Custom-Loop solution for that reason. Looking forward to posting some pictures up once I get it stable.


The strix 970 I had came with a nice heatsink over the vrms. I did not try to run without any fan on them though. I put a simple 20mm fan on a case blank and mounted it over the vrm heat sink (attached with the screw from one of the exiting case blanks) and simply angled it over and turned it on. It handled 1500+ OCs without issue in that form. Its kind of ghetto and obviously you can make something much nicer. But it worked.


----------



## 5erveD

Does anyone know if a Kraken G10 would fit on a EVGA GTX 980 _Classified_.
It is currently attached to a EVGA GTX 980 Superclocked. And it works like a charm.
But I am planning a upgrade to a Classified.
The Classified has a different pcb then the Superclocked. So if someone could shine a light on this, I would be very thankfull.
From the looks of it. I would say it would be a show stopper.


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5erveD*
> 
> Does anyone know if a Kraken G10 would fit on a EVGA GTX 980 _Classified_.
> It is currently attached to a EVGA GTX 980 Superclocked. And it works like a charm.
> But I am planning a upgrade to a Classified.
> The Classified has a different pcb then the Superclocked. So if someone could shine a light on this, I would be very thankfull.
> From the looks of it. I would say it would be a show stopper.


It should work fine. I know it worked fine on a 780 Classified.


----------



## 5erveD

Cheers for the heads up


----------



## maynard14

hi guys,,, i need help, im not sure if this cooler will fit on the nzxt bracket?



i hope it will fit







it so cheap here


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> hi guys,,, i need help, im not sure if this cooler will fit on the nzxt bracket?
> 
> i hope it will fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it so cheap here


It appears to be an ASETEK mount the best I can tell from that picture. I think it will work


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> 
> It appears to be an ASETEK mount the best I can tell from that picture. I think it will work


yeah i think it is similar to a corsair h50 with a tower like head









like this one


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> yeah i think it is similar to a corsair h50 with a tower like head
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like this one


That will work. Only problem I foresee is that it is pretty tall and "may" (Probably just be pretty close) present an issue if you ever try to run more than one G-10. But few do.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> That will work. Only problem I foresee is that it is pretty tall and may present an issue if you ever try to run more than one G-10. But few do.


oh boy,, at the first page of this page bro it is listed

Original corsair H50 will not fit properly

so i think it will not fit properly,..









guess i have to invest money to buy a h55 cooler









thanks again


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> oh boy,, at the first page of this page bro it is listed
> 
> Original corsair H50 will not fit properly
> 
> so i think it will not fit properly,..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess i have to invest money to buy a h55 cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks again


I wonder why, the mount itself appears correct. I havnt ever held an H50 in my hands though.



Appears he had to do a trimming and use a shim.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1511839/nzxt-kraken-g10-w-corshair-h50-7970-review/0_20

I guess it can at least be made to work if you already have one collecting dust. Personally, just get one that fits, they arent that expensive.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I wonder why, the mount itself appears correct. I havnt ever held an H50 in my hands though.
> 
> 
> 
> Appears he had to do a trimming and use a shim.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1511839/nzxt-kraken-g10-w-corshair-h50-7970-review/0_20
> 
> I guess it can at least be made to work if you already have one collecting dust. Personally, just get one that fits, they arent that expensive.


nah i dont have h50, but i found a second hand and its cheap but i dont want to frustrate my self and having to put shim on the 290x, haha ill just buy a new h55









thank you bro for helping me


----------



## Stephen88

Hi guys, I have bought the Kraken G10 for my Galax GTX 970 EXOC, I have one question, I have also bought on Moddiy a 5-pin split cable to 3x 4-pin pwm connectors, but meanwhile I wait the shipment, can I use my gpu with the fans connected to MoBo?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stephen88*
> 
> Hi guys, I have bought the Kraken G10 for my Galax GTX 970 EXOC, I have one question, I have also bought on Moddiy a 5-pin split cable to 3x 4-pin pwm connectors, but meanwhile I wait the shipment, can I use my gpu with the fans connected to MoBo?


Yes, i usually recommend the pump be connected to the mainboard. There is not any issue connecting the fan to the board too if you have the space.


----------



## missalaire

I recently got a Gigabyte R9 290 and I'd like to use my NZXT G10 to cool it. Are the fans of the G10 sufficient to cool or do I need to ghetto rig another fan to cool?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> I recently got a Gigabyte R9 290 and I'd like to use my NZXT G10 to cool it. Are the fans of the G10 sufficient to cool or do I need to ghetto rig another fan to cool?


Put a heat sink on the VRMs and you should be good.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> I recently got a Gigabyte R9 290 and I'd like to use my NZXT G10 to cool it. Are the fans of the G10 sufficient to cool or do I need to ghetto rig another fan to cool?


The included 92mm fan is fine, but you will want to buy a Gelid R9 290 VRM heatsink kit for approximately $13.


----------



## Yorkston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trondster*
> 
> The GPU radiator should always be set as exhaust - it generates a lot of heat!


I'm currently running a G10+H55 on my 290 windforce with the gellid kit. Core temps are amazing, VRM2 is fine, VRM1 becomes the bottleneck. The stock 92mm fan does decently (i'm running at 1190/1600 with +100mv, VRM1 tops out in mid-80s) but if you want to go north of +100 you might want to try something stronger. I would definitely put a side intake fan over it if possible.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yorkston*
> 
> I'm currently running a G10+H55 on my 290 windforce with the gellid kit. Core temps are amazing, VRM2 is fine, VRM1 becomes the bottleneck. The stock 92mm fan does decently (i'm running at 1190/1600 with +100mv, VRM1 tops out in mid-80s) but if you want to go north of +100 you might want to try something stronger. I would definitely put a side intake fan over it if possible.


You could also try buying a more powerful 92mm fan. I recommend the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm. It is less than $10, and delivers tons of airflow.


----------



## hartofwave

So will one of these fit on a R9 285 Windforce?


----------



## maynard14

how about the Noctua NF-B9 1600 92mm Fan sir is it good for nzxt g10?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> how about the Noctua NF-B9 1600 92mm Fan sir is it good for nzxt g10?


It will fit fine, but I think that if you are going to upgrade from the included 92mm fan, you should get a fan with more power. I recommend the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm fan. It is less than $10, and if you own the VGA to PWM adapter, you can control it in MSI afterburner, and even at a blistering 2200rpm it is silent. Above 2200rpm it does get noticeable, and it goes all the way up to 3000rpm.


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> H55's work great with Cooler Master SickleFlows (2000rpm 2.94mm/H20) and they cost $10 at most. I have 5 of them in my case now in the front. Both H55's are in Push/Pull and they made a HUGE difference with push/pull. They are pretty quiet as well. I highly recommend them!


Good to see!

I was looking/waiting for a sale on the kraken g10 and another AIO....

My current setup in my 540, i have a pic somewhere...., 240 rad up top for CPU,.120 rad(kuhler 920) in back, for GPU, because its super thick. Im wanting to add AIO to my second GPU, but I think i may mount the rad at front-top to pull air out of the case. And have the single intake fan on front-bottom.

**Just noticed your name....Cousins w/ the same case! WHAT!









Found it - messy yes!


----------



## Romansamurai

Hey guys, new owner here. Was going to put the G10 on my cards before I found this thread, now however I'm waiting for my new VRM heat sinks. They should be here tonight.
I have a question. I looked through the pages here but I didn't really find a clear image showing the cards I have.

I'm going to put g10 on 2 cards, one for me one for my bro.

1st is a 780 EVGA Classified. I found these images ( i haven't removed the plate yet) and it should look like this.

http://cdn.overclock.net/5/5f/5f994c79_evga-780-classified-pcb-twitter.jpeg
http://cdn.overclock.net/5/5f/5f994c79_evga-780-classified-pcb-twitter.jpeg

2nd is a MSI 980 GTX and I think
it will look like this when I remove the plate.

http://elchapuzasinformatico.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/MSI-GeForce-GTX-980-Gaming-15.jpg

Where should I put the copper vrm heatsinks I got for these cards. Any tips, anything to expect? These are our only cards, so I want to make sure I do it right. Thanks guys!


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romansamurai*
> 
> Hey guys, new owner here. Was going to put the G10 on my cards before I found this thread, now however I'm waiting for my new VRM heat sinks. They should be here tonight.
> I have a question. I looked through the pages here but I didn't really find a clear image showing the cards I have.
> 
> I'm going to put g10 on 2 cards, one for me one for my bro.
> 
> 1st is a 780 EVGA Classified. I found these images ( i haven't removed the plate yet) and it should look like this.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/5/5f/5f994c79_evga-780-classified-pcb-twitter.jpeg
> http://cdn.overclock.net/5/5f/5f994c79_evga-780-classified-pcb-twitter.jpeg
> 
> Where should I put the copper vrm heatsinks I got for these cards. Any tips, anything to expect? These are our only cards, so I want to make sure I do it right. Thanks guys!


Although mine is a 780ti classi, they are pretty much the same...
Here is mine when I did it.

http://s861.photobucket.com/user/BroHamBone/media/imagejpg1_zpse67599f4.jpg.html


----------



## Romansamurai

Great! Thank you. I only ordered 16 heatsinks lol I guess I need to order more.

Also from the looks of the pictures of the 980, looks like they have a plate on it, maybe I should keep that? I don't know THAT much about these things.

*Edit*: I just use regular thermal paste like the Arctic Mx-4 Carbon Thermal Paste? to put the heatsinks on or no paste?


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romansamurai*
> 
> Great! Thank you. I only ordered 16 heatsinks lol I guess I need to order more.
> 
> Also from the looks of the pictures of the 980, looks like they have a plate on it, maybe I should keep that? I don't know THAT much about these things.
> 
> *Edit*: I just use regular thermal paste like the Arctic Mx-4 Carbon Thermal Paste? to put the heatsinks on or no paste?


You should be fine w/ the plates on the 980 as the 780(ti) classifieds also have the base plates on them.

For the heatsinks, I used the double sided sticky tape that came in the package. I cleaned the attaching areas w/ 91% isopropyl and used gloves to make sure no oil leaked off my finger tips onto the sticky pads.

As far as the paste goes, unless its a type of ceramic, it may or may not hold properly once it heats up.

With the pads I have on mine, the VRM temp shows in the high 40s and mid-high 50s when continuous benching.

At this moment, its showing 36C idle in SLI. Above card is ACX version and ambient temperature outside the case is ~27C (yes hot!)


----------



## Romansamurai

Ok great, then I'll just use the sticky tape that should come with them, thank you again.


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romansamurai*
> 
> Ok great, then I'll just use the sticky tape that should come with them, thank you again.


One more thing,

Make sure you apply pressure when adhering them. Some people complained the tape did not stick properly which could have been for multiple reasons;

-Not cleaning the surface
-They touched the sticky surface with their fingers
-Did not apply pressure for a sustained amount of time (30 secs or so) when attaching them

Also if the heatsinks are pointy, lightly lift or slowly roll your finger off after apply the pressure as they may be indented in your skin (happened to me







) I guess you could use something hard to press on them instead!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romansamurai*
> 
> Hey guys, new owner here. Was going to put the G10 on my cards before I found this thread, now however I'm waiting for my new VRM heat sinks. They should be here tonight.
> I have a question. I looked through the pages here but I didn't really find a clear image showing the cards I have.
> 
> I'm going to put g10 on 2 cards, one for me one for my bro.
> 
> 1st is a 780 EVGA Classified. I found these images ( i haven't removed the plate yet) and it should look like this.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/5/5f/5f994c79_evga-780-classified-pcb-twitter.jpeg
> http://cdn.overclock.net/5/5f/5f994c79_evga-780-classified-pcb-twitter.jpeg
> 
> 2nd is a MSI 980 GTX and I think
> it will look like this when I remove the plate.
> 
> http://elchapuzasinformatico.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/MSI-GeForce-GTX-980-Gaming-15.jpg
> 
> Where should I put the copper vrm heatsinks I got for these cards. Any tips, anything to expect? These are our only cards, so I want to make sure I do it right. Thanks guys!


You don't need to remove the plate from either of those GPUs. The only thing you really need is a copper shim for the 780Ti. That is the only thing you need to buy. The VRAM doesn't get hot enough that you need to worry about it, and on both GPUs it is already covered with the mid-plate. If you want, you could place some of the copper heatsinks on top of the mid-plate of the 780Ti over the VRMs, but its really not necessary.

Here is a great video of someone doing the G10 mod to a 780Ti Classified.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySA6yYvj9Z4

You want a 20mm x 20mm x 1mm copper shim. They can be purchased on eBay for relatively cheap. You will then put thermal paste on both sides of the shim. I prefer the spread method because the mounting pressure is not always the best.

You can also keep the backplate of the 780Ti Classified if you thin down or remove the foam piece on the G10's mounting backplate.

The MSI 980 can be left as is, it already comes with a very nice midplate/heatsink that covers all of the pertinent components.


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You don't need to remove the plate from either of those GPUs. The only thing you really need is a copper shim for the 780Ti. That is the only thing you need to buy. The VRAM doesn't get hot enough that you need to worry about it, and on both GPUs it is already covered with the mid-plate. If you want, you could place some of the copper heatsinks on top of the mid-plate of the 780Ti over the VRMs, but its really not necessary.
> 
> Here is a great video of someone doing the G10 mod to a 780Ti Classified.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySA6yYvj9Z4
> 
> You want a 20mm x 20mm x 1mm copper shim. They can be purchased on eBay for relatively cheap. You will then put thermal paste on both sides of the shim. I prefer the spread method because the mounting pressure is not always the best.


Why use a copper shim if its not needed?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> Why use a copper shim if its not needed?


A copper shim is needed. The mid plate, mainly the screw holes on the EVGA cards are raised up above the GPU Die. The copper shim acts as a spacer so that you get proper contact between the copper plate of the AIO and the GPU die.


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> A copper shim is needed. The mid plate, mainly the screw holes on the EVGA cards are raised up above the GPU Die. The copper shim acts as a spacer so that you get proper contact between the copper plate of the AIO and the GPU die.


My temps with my benchmark scores beg to differ.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> My temps with my benchmark scores beg to differ.


Can you expound on that please? I am not following.

I said if you keep the mid plate, which you should because it already does a fantastic job of passively cooling the VRAM and VRMs, then you need to use a copper shim. Otherwise you won't get proper contact between the GPU die and the AIO. Not to mention, its a lot less expensive to buy a $3 shim, than $16+ in copper heatsinks.

I have an EVGA GTX 780 SC, that required a copper shim in order to keep the mid plate and my temps are incredible using an X31 with two fans in push/pull at a constant 1200rpm. Pump at full speed.

When gaming, I have never hit 50C on the core unless I enable DSR or turn off Vsync/frame cap. That is with a +100Mhz Core/+250Mhz Memory overclock.

Benchmarking, same goes for Unigine Heaven and Valley, and I NEVER run Kombustor/Furmark because it is a dangerous program that shouldn't be run in any situation.

VRM temps are also fantastic. I use an NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller, which has a temperature probe to monitor my VRM temps. I have this sensor smack dab in the middle of the VRMs and the midplate. According to this sensor idle VRM temps are between 26-29C, and gaming temps I have never seen it exceed 54C, and that was with DSR. It is mostly in the 30s and 40s depending on the game.

Edit* Ambient temp is 24C.


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Can you expound on that please? I am not following.
> 
> I said if you keep the mid plate, which you should because it already does a fantastic job of passively cooling the VRAM and VRMs, then you need to use a copper shim. Otherwise you won't get proper contact between the GPU die and the AIO. Not to mention, its a lot less expensive to buy a $3 shim, than $16+ in copper heatsinks.
> 
> I have an EVGA GTX 780 SC, that required a copper shim in order to keep the mid plate and my temps are incredible using an X31 with two fans in push/pull at a constant 1200rpm. Pump at full speed.
> 
> When gaming, I have never hit 50C on the core unless I enable DSR or turn off Vsync/frame cap. That is with a +100Mhz Core/+250Mhz Memory overclock.
> 
> Benchmarking, same goes for Unigine Heaven and Valley, and I NEVER run Kombustor/Furmark because it is a dangerous program that shouldn't be run in any situation.
> 
> VRM temps are also fantastic. I use an NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller, which has a temperature probe to monitor my VRM temps. I have this sensor smack dab in the middle of the VRMs and the midplate. According to this sensor idle VRM temps are between 26-29C, and gaming temps I have never seen it exceed 54C, and that was with DSR. It is mostly in the 30s and 40s depending on the game.
> 
> Edit* Ambient temp is 24C.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> A copper shim is needed. The mid plate, mainly the screw holes on the EVGA cards are raised up above the GPU Die. The copper shim acts as a spacer so that you get proper contact between the copper plate of the AIO and the GPU die.


I apologize. You are saying a shim is required when using the mid plate. I misunderstood.


----------



## thesebastian

People, I'm having huge temps with my Gigabyte ITX 970 in "Coolermaster Elite 110" itx case. (There is no airflow in the left part of the case).

I want to switch to another bigger case. Like the "Evolv ITX". BUT the GPU is very near to the bottom plate.

If this case does not solve my GPU temps, I'm going for a Kraken G10 (without fan I guess, because my PCB is too short).

Do you think Kraken G10 will fit in this case? Or no way...

By the way..if you know about a good ITX case for a Kraken G10 (+ a medium/big radiator, like Corsair H90) I'm all ears! (mATX is welcome too, but the "Evolv" no-itx is much more expensive).

(I don't really care about CPU temps, I don't OC CPU or GPU)


----------



## GiveMeHope

Is it safe to use this without any addtitional cooling (apart from the direct fan) for the VRMs on the Titan X ?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Is it safe to use this without any addtitional cooling (apart from the direct fan) for the VRMs on the Titan X ?


I wouldn't risk it, especially when adding heatsinks is very inexpensive and has shown to make a drastic improvement. After all, this is a $1000 GPU we're talking about. I wouldn't take any chances, and I wouldn't skimp out on VRM cooling.

I'm on my laptop so I don't have direct links to the products I normally recommend, but if you go back within this thread you should be able to find those links because I recommend it often. If not, I will be home later this week and can send you the direct links.

What you will want to do is buy some double sided adhesive thermal pads, and aluminum heatsinks. You will put the thermal pads over the VRMs, then the heatsinks on top of the thermal pads. It should only cost ~$12. I am also going to recommend a stronger 92mm fan, just to air on the side of caution. The included 92mm fan is great, but again, $1000 GPU, lets not take any chances. The Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm is less than $10, and provides a ton of cooling. You can also buy a VGA to PWM adapter which will allow you to control this fan via MSI Afterburner.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> People, I'm having huge temps with my Gigabyte ITX 970 in "Coolermaster Elite 110" itx case. (There is no airflow in the left part of the case).
> 
> I want to switch to another bigger case. Like the "Evolv ITX". BUT the GPU is very near to the bottom plate.
> 
> If this case does not solve my GPU temps, I'm going for a Kraken G10 (without fan I guess, because my PCB is too short).
> 
> Do you think Kraken G10 will fit in this case? Or no way...
> 
> By the way..if you know about a good ITX case for a Kraken G10 (+ a medium/big radiator, like Corsair H90) I'm all ears! (mATX is welcome too, but the "Evolv" no-itx is much more expensive).
> 
> (I don't really care about CPU temps, I don't OC CPU or GPU)


What is the huge problem? What kind of temps are you getting? I have been seeing that these small PCB 970s are running hotter than their full PCB counterparts, and it makes sense that they are running hotter because there is components packed into a smaller area, and with less airflow, its just going to run hotter than normal. I am not sure if a larger case is going to solve your problem because it is just how those smaller cards are. You could try and buy a larger chassis, but I think it isn't going to be the savior you think it is.

As far as G10 goes, I also think it would be slightly problematic because the bracket isn't designed with these small PCBs in mind, and you still have to consider the VRMs are on the left side. You will have to get additional airflow over the left side of the PCB, which might be more difficult in an ITX chassis.

You could try buying a larger case to see if that helps. Something I will mention is when looking for this new case, you should try and find one that you like, that supports longer GPUs. You could sell your current 970 at a small loss, then take money you would have spent on G10 and put it towards a full PCB 970 with good stock cooling, and placing this in your larger chassis because your current one only supports GPUs up to 210mm in length.

If your GPU isn't hitting 80-85C, then you shouldn't be too concerned. If it is in that 80-85C+ range, then these changes might be beneficial. You could also try "ghetto rigging" some fans inside your current chassis if you can make it fit. Something like an Antec Spot Cool or Antec Cyclone to help with airflow.


----------



## shankly1985

Advice Needed Guys..

I bought two Corsair HG10 to fit onto MSI 290 Gaming Edition and MSI 290x Gaming Edition..

I ran into a problem, 290 fitted fine PCB is Reference, the 290x on the other hand isn't Reference somewhere along the line they released version 2 of there PCB.

Now I don't want to go and buy this G10 not knowing if it will fit my MSI custom PCB

PCB image


Brings me to my other concern.. I bought the HG10 from Corsair because the better reviews on the VRMs etc I notice on the G10 the Memory and VRMs are not covered.. Can I reuse the thermal pads from the stock cooler from MSI?
Or should I also buy new thermal pads? If I was to buy new thermal pads are these easy to remove should I wish to ever sell on and reinstall the stock cooler?

Thanks guys!


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> What is the huge problem? What kind of temps are you getting? I have been seeing that these small PCB 970s are running hotter than their full PCB counterparts, and it makes sense that they are running hotter because there is components packed into a smaller area, and with less airflow, its just going to run hotter than normal. I am not sure if a larger case is going to solve your problem because it is just how those smaller cards are. You could try and buy a larger chassis, but I think it isn't going to be the savior you think it is.
> 
> As far as G10 goes, I also think it would be slightly problematic because the bracket isn't designed with these small PCBs in mind, and you still have to consider the VRMs are on the left side. You will have to get additional airflow over the left side of the PCB, which might be more difficult in an ITX chassis.
> 
> You could try buying a larger case to see if that helps. Something I will mention is when looking for this new case, you should try and find one that you like, that supports longer GPUs. You could sell your current 970 at a small loss, then take money you would have spent on G10 and put it towards a full PCB 970 with good stock cooling, and placing this in your larger chassis because your current one only supports GPUs up to 210mm in length.
> 
> If your GPU isn't hitting 80-85C, then you shouldn't be too concerned. If it is in that 80-85C+ range, then these changes might be beneficial. You could also try "ghetto rigging" some fans inside your current chassis if you can make it fit. Something like an Antec Spot Cool or Antec Cyclone to help with airflow.


Hi!

Thanks a lot for your reply.
My GPU is currently reaching:

82C [ without the case's cover / 20-25C ambient temp / 60% max fan speed (custom fan settings) / 85C thermal throttle (retail is 79C) ] (Without the case's cover I still think that the GPU hot air is still there, stuck).

85-87C [ with the case's cover / 20-25C ambient temp / 75%+ fan speed (Auto fan settings, really loud) / 89C thermal throttle (retail is 79C) ]

But the real problem is the noise. In summer the ambient temp will be 35C!

I didn't know about "ghetto rigging". But i tried something similar (a Noctua 140mm fan at the front corner pushing air to the GPU, away from the original front slot) and the CM Elite 110's 120mm fan as exhaust fan over the GPU beetween a corner and the PSU) this worked well during the winter....

Please, keep in mind that my GPU only uses 8pins 12V. (Compared to the full versions of Gigabyte's 970s) and I don't OC. That's why i wanted to try the kraken G10, with passive VRM heatsinks etc.
I mean, if my GPU is under 55-60C (with a good AIO WC), do I still need to worry about the VRM and the RAM? (Considering they have copper heatsinks).

What is worse, VRM+RAM+GPU linked by stock heatsink and 90C GPU temp in summer, or, VRM/RAM with copper heatsink (no direct air) and GPU with AIO at 60C? (And no OC).

My default PerfCap Reason (before the thermal throttle begins) is PWR.

I was about to buy a Kraken G10 and cut it in order to use it in my ITX case.

However...Like you said...maybe the best solution is to buy the Evolv ITX case...and wait to replace the GPU for a full length one.

But if I buy the "Evolv ITX" case and the Kraken G10, I will need to use it without a fan, even in futures GPUs.


----------



## masteratarms

http://i.imgur.com/OJ5Z5rf.jpg

Is this what I need to connect a typical 92mm fan on the Kraken to the onboard header?

How many pins are on the GPU connection of this adapter?:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161417062000?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## mackanz

How much space does this take if you measure from the pci port to the botttom end of the adapter?
I got a Corsair Air 240 and a micro atx mainboard and somewhere along the line, i willl probably go SLI 980's or Titans. I'm seeing someone says it takes up two and a half slots and that would be a dealbreaker.
Can the front be shaved off a bit or is it the fan/cooling head that is the "thickest" part of the assembly?

While i am at it. I haven't removed the ACX 2.0 unit from the superclocked 980 so i dont know what to expect other than the info i got is that it is based on reference board. Will i need some extra heatsinks?

Cheers!


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/OJ5Z5rf.jpg
> 
> Is this what I need to connect a typical 92mm fan on the Kraken to the onboard header?


I think its a 4pin GPU to 3pin/4pin fan adapter..

http://www.moddiy.com/products/Mini-4%252dPin-GPU-to-4%252dPin-Fan-Adapter.html


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> I think its a 4pin GPU to 3pin/4pin fan adapter..
> 
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Mini-4%252dPin-GPU-to-4%252dPin-Fan-Adapter.html


Thanks, the Gelid version is cheap on ebay; I was just trying to buy from where I want to buy a fan adapter from.

That store is in Hong Kong and it costs £6.33 to ship to UK. Ebay is £0.80 dearer but free shipping.


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> My 1400oc around 60C disagrees
> I think its a 4pin GPU to 4pin fan adapter..
> 
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Mini-4%252dPin-GPU-to-4%252dPin-Fan-Adapter.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Thanks, the Gelid version is cheap on ebay; I was just trying to buy from where I want to buy a fan adapter from.


Cool, I think I have a Gelid one currently...I know I have a second one somewhere...in a box inside another box...


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mackanz*
> 
> How much space does this take if you measure from the pci port to the botttom end of the adapter?
> I got a Corsair Air 240 and a micro atx mainboard and somewhere along the line, i willl probably go SLI 980's or Titans. I'm seeing someone says it takes up two and a half slots and that would be a dealbreaker.
> Can the front be shaved off a bit or is it the fan/cooling head that is the "thickest" part of the assembly?
> 
> While i am at it. I haven't removed the ACX 2.0 unit from the superclocked 980 so i dont know what to expect other than the info i got is that it is based on reference board. Will i need some extra heatsinks?
> 
> Cheers!


I have a G10 in my wife's rig and it does take up more than 2 slots. I grabbed 2 of the Pulse Modding ones since they are small but haven't really looked at it closely after installation but it might be the 92mm fan that is making it thicker. I will have to pop open my system to check.

You can see a pic of it here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1203636/official-amd-ati-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-red-mod/2850#post_23909162


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shankly1985*
> 
> Advice Needed Guys..
> 
> I bought two Corsair HG10 to fit onto MSI 290 Gaming Edition and MSI 290x Gaming Edition..
> 
> I ran into a problem, 290 fitted fine PCB is Reference, the 290x on the other hand isn't Reference somewhere along the line they released version 2 of there PCB.
> 
> Now I don't want to go and buy this G10 not knowing if it will fit my MSI custom PCB
> 
> PCB image
> 
> 
> Brings me to my other concern.. I bought the HG10 from Corsair because the better reviews on the VRMs etc I notice on the G10 the Memory and VRMs are not covered.. Can I reuse the thermal pads from the stock cooler from MSI?
> Or should I also buy new thermal pads? If I was to buy new thermal pads are these easy to remove should I wish to ever sell on and reinstall the stock cooler?
> 
> Thanks guys!


You should buy a Gelid R9 290(X) Heatsink Kit. Its like $13 and works incredibly well. Should also work on the custom PCB.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Thanks a lot for your reply.
> My GPU is currently reaching:
> 
> 82C [ without the case's cover / 20-25C ambient temp / 60% max fan speed (custom fan settings) / 85C thermal throttle (retail is 79C) ] (Without the case's cover I still think that the GPU hot air is still there, stuck).
> 
> 85-87C [ with the case's cover / 20-25C ambient temp / 75%+ fan speed (Auto fan settings, really loud) / 89C thermal throttle (retail is 79C) ]
> 
> But the real problem is the noise. In summer the ambient temp will be 35C!
> 
> I didn't know about "ghetto rigging". But i tried something similar (a Noctua 140mm fan at the front corner pushing air to the GPU, away from the original front slot) and the CM Elite 110's 120mm fan as exhaust fan over the GPU beetween a corner and the PSU) this worked well during the winter....
> 
> Please, keep in mind that my GPU only uses 8pins 12V. (Compared to the full versions of Gigabyte's 970s) and I don't OC. That's why i wanted to try the kraken G10, with passive VRM heatsinks etc.
> I mean, if my GPU is under 55-60C (with a good AIO WC), do I still need to worry about the VRM and the RAM? (Considering they have copper heatsinks).
> 
> What is worse, VRM+RAM+GPU linked by stock heatsink and 90C GPU temp in summer, or, VRM/RAM with copper heatsink (no direct air) and GPU with AIO at 60C? (And no OC).
> 
> My default PerfCap Reason (before the thermal throttle begins) is PWR.
> 
> I was about to buy a Kraken G10 and cut it in order to use it in my ITX case.
> 
> However...Like you said...maybe the best solution is to buy the Evolv ITX case...and wait to replace the GPU for a full length one.
> 
> But if I buy the "Evolv ITX" case and the Kraken G10, I will need to use it without a fan, even in futures GPUs.


Yea, that is borderline too hot. Passive VRM cooling isn't sufficient. You need airflow over the VRMs. Even as it is now, your card is getting airflow over the VRMs.

I think you should try a larger case first. If that doesn't work, then try reinvesting money into a full size 970. If that still isn't acceptable to you, then the G10 is what you should do.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mackanz*
> 
> How much space does this take if you measure from the pci port to the botttom end of the adapter?
> I got a Corsair Air 240 and a micro atx mainboard and somewhere along the line, i willl probably go SLI 980's or Titans. I'm seeing someone says it takes up two and a half slots and that would be a dealbreaker.
> Can the front be shaved off a bit or is it the fan/cooling head that is the "thickest" part of the assembly?
> 
> While i am at it. I haven't removed the ACX 2.0 unit from the superclocked 980 so i dont know what to expect other than the info i got is that it is based on reference board. Will i need some extra heatsinks?
> 
> Cheers!


It does take up about 2.5 Slots. I have seen other people bend the "wing" of the bracket to make it work. You could do that, or cut it off completely.

The EVGA GTX 980 SC w/ ACX 2.0 Cooler has a nice built in mid-plate. You want to keep this midplate as it helps with rigidity, but more importantly VRM temps. In order to keep this mid plate, you will need to buy a copper shim. 20mm x 20mm x 1mm. No extra heatsinks are required, but you can add them if you would like.


----------



## masteratarms

I heard the nzxt 92mm fan which comes with the Kraken isn't very good, what is a good upgrade for it? I'll be running it from the GPU fan header so it doesn't need to be quiet at 100%, but not delta loud (which would probably break the fan header too).


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> I heard the nzxt 92mm fan which comes with the Kraken isn't very good, what is a good upgrade for it? I'll be running it from the GPU fan header so it doesn't need to be quiet at 100%, but not delta loud (which would probably break the fan header too).


I use a Zalman ZM-F2 FDB and find the performance good and it's fairly quiet.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> I heard the nzxt 92mm fan which comes with the Kraken isn't very good, what is a good upgrade for it? I'll be running it from the GPU fan header so it doesn't need to be quiet at 100%, but not delta loud (which would probably break the fan header too).


I run Nanoxia FX09s but i never really had any trouble with the NZXT fans.


----------



## shankly1985

If I was connecting the fan with an adapter to the GPU header is they anything I need to know about? is the GPU fan header powerful enough to drive say Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro Fan PE-1 - 92mm ??

With this adapter
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221387299729?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## masteratarms

Silverstone SST-FW91 FW

I think I'll go with this one https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-040-SV

I have a 120mm with its max noise being the same as the min noise of this fan. I'll be able to control it via afterburner with PWM through the on board GPU fan header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shankly1985*
> 
> If I was connecting the fan with an adapter to the GPU header is they anything I need to know about? is the GPU fan header powerful enough to drive say Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro Fan PE-1 - 92mm ??
> 
> With this adapter
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221387299729?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


I've heard its when u attach 2 fans from the gpu header is where you damage the fan header. It must be a couple of pages back. Its not the adapter's specification u should have posted, it's the fans.







GPUs do regularly come with quite powerful noisy fans though. However u could buy a fan hub or a 5 or 7 volt converter or plug into the mobo.


----------



## shankly1985

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Silverstone SST-FW91 FW
> 
> I think I'll go with this one https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-040-SV
> 
> I have a 120mm with its max noise being the same as the min noise of this fan. I'll be able to control it via afterburner with PWM through the on board GPU fan header. I'm having second thought as my quiet 120mm pwm is 0.36w attached to the mobo header and the 92mm silverstone is 3.36w attached to gpu header.
> I've heard its when u attach 2 fans from the gpu header is where you damage the fan header. It must be a couple of pages back. Its not the adapter's specification u should have posted, it's the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPUs do regularly come with quite powerful noisy fans though. However u could buy a fan hub or a 5 or 7 volt converter or plug into the mobo.


Fan 1800rpm 4 Pin (PWM) 5.0 V / 12.0 V 24db

What about the stock G10 fan people used this connected to the GPU header? if so maybe I just use a fan that has same voltage?


----------



## masteratarms

Its the Amps or Watts you need to compare. The PSU supplies 12v max and its a constant (unless u are undervolting). I was looking at an replacement stock fan on ebay, it said 0.35A. Which is more than the fans I'm looking at.

See here - zoom in a bit:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/75mm-Video-Card-Dual-Fan-for-MSI-GTX-560-570-R6970-Twin-Frozr-II-PLD08010S12HH-1/111250013121?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31102%26meid%3D982b10bd181d471d8ab03def7a4c1a4d%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D290975581973


----------



## shankly1985

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Its the Amps or Watts you need to compare. The PSU supplies 12v max and its a constant (unless u are undervolting). I was looking at an replacement stock fan on ebay, it said 0.35A. Which is more than the fans I'm looking at.
> 
> See here - zoom in a bit:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/75mm-Video-Card-Dual-Fan-for-MSI-GTX-560-570-R6970-Twin-Frozr-II-PLD08010S12HH-1/111250013121?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31102%26meid%3D982b10bd181d471d8ab03def7a4c1a4d%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D290975581973


Not sure what I should do then







I would really like the fan connected to the GPU, guess I will after look at other options. last thing I want is burning out the header.


----------



## masteratarms

I just checked the fan you want to use is 0.84w and the one I've just ordered is 3.36w. It doesn't mention the current for your fan but P= Isquared * r. I'm going to assume you have less amps than I do. As I already stated the fan I've bought now is lower in current than a stock fan I've seen on ebay.

This is where I got the wattage from:
http://www.blacknoise.com/datas/downloads/datasheets/TData_BSP92_122012_de_en.pdf


----------



## helios123

If i were to use g10 krakens on 290x 2 way crossfire what kind of AIO cooler should i use and how much noise would result? I want to know if i should do custom watercool or just go with the cheaper and less troublesome g10 route. Also how would i fit the coolers in one of the fractal cases especially the new define s case?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helios123*
> 
> If i were to use g10 krakens on 290x 2 way crossfire what kind of AIO cooler should i use and how much noise would result? I want to know if i should do custom watercool or just go with the cheaper and less troublesome g10 route. Also how would i fit the coolers in one of the fractal cases especially the new define s case?


Its been awhile since I built a loop so It would be prudent to compare prices between the two before you decide. As to your question about two of these setups fitting in a case, thats a more difficult a question. Anyone who has done it can really only speak of their setup because tube lengths vary on the various brands of CLCs and of course mounting locations vary between the different cases. All "I" can really say is it is doable in a Corsair 400R. I mounted the 140mm radiators on the removable side panel and I am able to coil the tubes in as I close the case in a non restrictive manner. Concessions I made were that my fans for each respective radiator are mounted outside the case (Neatly and with grills protecting everything and one).I wanted no maintenance. It works fine for me. I also have an H110 cooling the CPU with the 280mm radiator mounted on the top of the case.


----------



## shankly1985

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> I just checked the fan you want to use is 0.84w and the one I've just ordered is 3.36w. It doesn't mention the current for your fan but P= Isquared * r. I'm going to assume you have less amps than I do. As I already stated the fan I've bought now is lower in current than a stock fan I've seen on ebay.
> 
> This is where I got the wattage from:
> http://www.blacknoise.com/datas/downloads/datasheets/TData_BSP92_122012_de_en.pdf


Thanks I cant seem to find the spec for the 290x MSI gaming edition fans so I might just play it safe and install the fan onto my Motherboard header.


----------



## bernieyee

Anyone have suggestions to cool my R9 280X in a dual slot case?

I'm using an Evolv ITX, and it's a dual slot case with only a little bit of room left over.

The G10 bracket looks to be triple slot? I can't remember exact measurements from when I used to own one.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> Anyone have suggestions to cool my R9 280X in a dual slot case?
> 
> I'm using an Evolv ITX, and it's a dual slot case with only a little bit of room left over.
> 
> The G10 bracket looks to be triple slot? I can't remember exact measurements from when I used to own one.


Ahh no the G10 is only dual slot, you can mount a single rad on the back fan and use the top fan slots for a cpu watercooler for example.


----------



## bernieyee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Ahh no the G10 is only dual slot, you can mount a single rad on the back fan and use the top fan slots for a cpu watercooler for example.


Do you have any photos of your G10 properly installed?

Some photos that I've seen on the internet seem to be between 2.5 slots to 3 slots, but I would like confirmation..



I might have to figure out a way to mod the case to accommodate the part of the bracket where the NZXT logo extends down..


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> Do you have any photos of your G10 properly installed?
> 
> Some photos that I've seen on the internet seem to be between 2.5 slots to 3 slots, but I would like confirmation..
> 
> 
> 
> I might have to figure out a way to mod the case to accommodate the part of the bracket where the NZXT logo extends down..


Oh no I don't own a G10 but I've seen around the web and seen reviews and as far I as I can tell it's dual slot, the Evolv ITX has some extra room below the slots anyways so if it overhangs a little it should still fit fine.

Edit: I checked it's dimensions on NZXT's site and measured it against my pcie slots, yes it's dual slot. slightly under dual slot actually.


----------



## mrclean110

I've installed it when I had my evga hadron (dual slot) and it fit fine! This is the best picture I have. Also don't mind the rads just hanging there, this was shortly before I upgraded to my NCASE


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> Do you have any photos of your G10 properly installed?
> 
> Some photos that I've seen on the internet seem to be between 2.5 slots to 3 slots, but I would like confirmation..
> 
> 
> 
> I might have to figure out a way to mod the case to accommodate the part of the bracket where the NZXT logo extends down..


Here are some pictures I just took. The G10 bracket makes my wife's R9 290 just over 2 inches in height measured from the backplate to the bottom point of the bracket.



The main problem isn't so much the bracket but the 92mm fan everyone puts on to cool the VRMs. You can see here that the 92mm fan is just passing what would be the 3rd PCI-E slot on this X58A-UD5.



Just for reference, here's a picture of the motherboard.



The only way you'll get it into 2 slots is to use other methods of mounting like the Pulse Modding bracket or zip ties and then either just live with passively cooling the VRMs (making sure you have sufficient overall airflow) or get a spot cooler to fit there somewhere.


----------



## mrclean110

^ I would argue that as it worked fine in my hadron air. Granted the fan had very little room to suck air for the vrm's, but I had no issues


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrclean110*
> 
> ^ I would argue that as it worked fine in my hadron air. Granted the fan had very little room to suck air for the vrm's, but I had no issues


Well, you do have a little bit of space below the slots that the G10 and 92mm fan can squeeze into.


----------



## BLUESHADOW2020

Do you people think that the G10 would fit a evga gtx 970 acx2.0+ ftw+ ?


----------



## mrclean110

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLUESHADOW2020*
> 
> Do you people think that the G10 would fit a evga gtx 970 acx2.0+ ftw+ ?


Yes


----------



## BLUESHADOW2020

Thanks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLUESHADOW2020*
> 
> Do you people think that the G10 would fit a evga gtx 970 acx2.0+ ftw+ ?


Yes BUT........... you will need to put a heatsink and fan on the vrms. The vrm cooling for the G10 is on the wrong side of the mount for a GTX 970.


----------



## Mnemo05

I got a few questions to my fellow g10 users

has anyone here been able to mod their g10 tp become a 2 slot cooler but still retaining the vrm fan?

or maybe been able to do an sli in a matx board(z97m killer or gene vii)?

what asetek designed aio has the slimmest profile for the pump/cold plate?

I currently am using one on my 980, the fan is over the 3rd pci-e slot.. the only way possible that I can see is by using the slimmest profile cold plate/pump and cutting the metal part where the nzxt logo is written for me to fit 2 of these on my board

any thoughts?


----------



## mrclean110

^ I'm sure you could mod the bracket. Me personally, I'll be selling my bracket and using a pulse modding bracket with a Noctua NF-A9x14 as the kraken bracket is pretty big in my NCASE M1


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> I got a few questions to my fellow g10 users
> 
> has anyone here been able to mod their g10 tp become a 2 slot cooler but still retaining the vrm fan?
> 
> or maybe been able to do an sli in a matx board(z97m killer or gene vii)?
> 
> what asetek designed aio has the slimmest profile for the pump/cold plate?
> 
> I currently am using one on my 980, the fan is over the 3rd pci-e slot.. the only way possible that I can see is by using the slimmest profile cold plate/pump and cutting the metal part where the nzxt logo is written for me to fit 2 of these on my board
> 
> any thoughts?


Use the Pulse Modding one.


----------



## BLUESHADOW2020

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yes BUT........... you will need to put a heatsink and fan on the vrms. The vrm cooling for the G10 is on the wrong side of the mount for a GTX 970.


Do you reckon you could explain that with a bit more detail? I have no idea what you mean.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLUESHADOW2020*
> 
> Do you reckon you could explain that with a bit more detail? I have no idea what you mean.


The vrms are usually on the back side of the PCB behind the gpu on most of the GTX series. For whatever reason, the vrms for the GTX 970 are on the front side of the PCB, the side where the gpu is secured to the case. Therefore the kraken vrm cooling setup is useless for the 970. You can still use the kraken bracket on the 970, you will just have to rig up your own vrm cooling. Its not a big deal, i successfully used 2 970s in sli with a simple cooling setup on the 970 vrms.

Because pics are worth more, VRMs in red box area
970




The kraken VRM cooling solution will work for the two on the bottom. But to be very clear, i rigged up a cooling solution for 20 bucks that worked fine in addiion to the kraken for a great experience.


----------



## BLUESHADOW2020

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The vrms are usually on the back side of the PCB behind the gpu on most of the GTX series. For whatever reason, the vrms for the GTX 970 are on the front side of the PCB, the side where the gpu is secured to the case. Therefore the kraken vrm cooling setup is useless for the 970. You can still use the kraken bracket on the 970, you will just have to rig up your own vrm cooling. Its not a big deal, i successfully used 2 970s in sli with a simple cooling setup on the 970 vrms.


Do you reckon you could post a picture or your setup for vm Cooling. Don't feel like you have to, just if you want to.


----------



## mrclean110

The 970 ftw has a mid plate so heat sinks likely aren't needed


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLUESHADOW2020*
> 
> Do you reckon you could post a picture or your setup for vm Cooling. Don't fell like you have to, just if you want to.


I dont have pics. I simply mounted a fan to a case blank, in turn with one end mounted to the same screw securing the gpu. a small twist of the metal case blank and it aimed the air right at the vrms. This is the ghetto way. You can also buy spot coolers.  Just try and buy a gpu with a heatsink on the VRMs. If it doesnt, you can buy a heatsink kit. none of this is expensive.


----------



## Mnemo05

Thanks for all the replies

Removing the metal part with the nzxt logo and using nf-a9x14 will allow me to do SLI on a matx board similar to the pulse bracket!

cant wait for the 980 ti and 390x to come out.. so I can score some cheap 980s! =)


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> Thanks for all the replies
> 
> Removing the metal part with the nzxt logo and using nf-a9x14 will allow me to do SLI on a matx board similar to the pulse bracket!
> 
> cant wait for the 980 ti and 390x to come out.. so I can score some cheap 980s! =)


I'm planning to do that. I have an "Evolv ITX" case with only space for 2 PCI slots (and just a little more...).

BUT, what about the "AIO heatsink"? It occupies more than 2 PCI slots? If so, I'm screwed...

I don't care if i ruin the Kraken G10, because it is still a much cheaper solution compared to regular WC with a EK Supremacy GPU Block, etc.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> I'm planning to do that. I have an "Evolv ITX" case with only space for 2 PCI slots (and just a little more...).
> 
> BUT, what about the "AIO heatsink"? It occupies more than 2 PCI slots? If so, I'm screwed...
> 
> I don't care if i ruin the Kraken G10, because it is still a much cheaper solution compared to regular WC with a EK Supremacy GPU Block, etc.


You mean the pump? No it's barely 2 slot high


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> You mean the pump? No it's barely 2 slot high


Yes! I was meaning the Pump installed in the G10 bracket (I don't know if the G10 bracket adds height to the pump, still, I never had a pump before so I had no idea).

There won't be a problem with that height.

Thanks for the reply!

EDIT: MMm I think it fits without a problem...(without modding it!) the total Height is 32,5mm? I have like...42-45mm.


----------



## Mnemo05

^ I have measure the pump height of my Antec 920, it does not interfere with my 3rd pci-e slot so it should well within the 2-slot height..

Worst case, I can remove the pump cover to lessen the height further =)


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Yes! I was meaning the Pump installed in the G10 bracket (I don't know if the G10 bracket adds height to the pump, still, I never had a pump before so I had no idea).
> 
> There won't be a problem with that height.
> 
> Thanks for the reply!
> 
> EDIT: MMm I think it fits without a problem...(without modding it!) the total Height is 32,5mm? I have like...42-45mm.


I don't have exact measurements because I don't have a multi-GPU setup myself, but I do remember someone in the past bent the wing of the G10 backet in order to make it work in SLI. When I say the wing, I mean the downward sloping piece of metal with NZXT written on it. Just a small bend was all it took.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Yes! I was meaning the Pump installed in the G10 bracket (I don't know if the G10 bracket adds height to the pump, still, I never had a pump before so I had no idea).
> 
> There won't be a problem with that height.
> 
> Thanks for the reply!
> 
> EDIT: MMm I think it fits without a problem...(without modding it!) the total Height is 32,5mm? I have like...42-45mm.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have exact measurements because I don't have a multi-GPU setup myself, but I do remember someone in the past bent the wing of the G10 backet in order to make it work in SLI. When I say the wing, I mean the downward sloping piece of metal with NZXT written on it. Just a small bend was all it took.
Click to expand...

That could work too. If there is no space I will do something like that! (I hope is not extremely hard to bend).

Now I need to know which heatsink should I buy for the (left) VRM / Mosfet and the vram. (For the VRAM i could put 1 at the front 1 at the back)
I'm planing to put a small fan (pointing upwards to the VRM) 60mm ( NF-A6x25 FLX or something like that). If that does not fit I should jump to 40mm. But I want something silent.

And for the AIO...No idea...Corsair H90? I have space for a bigger radiator, but i need a pump with a short height and side pipes.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> That could work too. If there is no space I will do something like that! (I hope is not extremely hard to bend).
> 
> Now I need to know which heatsink should I buy for the (left) VRM / Mosfet and the vram. (For the VRAM i could put 1 at the front 1 at the back)
> I'm planing to put a small fan (pointing upwards to the VRM) 60mm ( NF-A6x25 FLX or something like that). If that does not fit I should jump to 40mm. But I want something silent.
> 
> And for the AIO...No idea...Corsair H90? I have space for a bigger radiator, but i need a pump with a short height and side pipes.


Which specific model of card are you planning on doing this to? Some of them come with built in heatsinks for the VRMs. VRAM doesn't really get hot enough, even with an OC, so its just the VRMs you need to worry about.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Which specific model of card are you planning on doing this to? Some of them come with built in heatsinks for the VRMs. VRAM doesn't really get hot enough, even with an OC, so its just the VRMs you need to worry about.


I have the Gigabyte 970 ITX. It doesn't have a heat sink (only a small metal plate attached, i think soldered, to the stock general heatsink) you can find some photos here!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1557909/can-i-use-this-vram-heatsink-14mm-x-14mm-14mm-in-the-mosfet-nvidia-970-itx


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> I have the Gigabyte 970 ITX. It doesn't have a heat sink (only a small metal plate attached, i think soldered, to the stock general heatsink) you can find some photos here!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1557909/can-i-use-this-vram-heatsink-14mm-x-14mm-14mm-in-the-mosfet-nvidia-970-itx


'

Very nice gallery and descriptions, you have done your homework!

First thing I noticed, the Akasa thermal tape you plan to use is not recommended for GPU use. You want thermal pads. Double-sided, electrically non-conductive. These are the ones I have been recommending to people who live in the U.S. Thermal Pads

Next, you should use aluminum heatsinks, not copper. Copper is too heavy and people have reported them falling off. Use aluminum, its less expensive, does a good job, and won't fall off. There are so many aluminum heatsinks to choose from, just stay at or below 10mm in height and you should be fine.

What you will do is, place the thermal pads on top of the VRMs, then add the heatsinks onto the thermal pads. Give it a gentle, but firm press to help with the adhesion. Let stand for an hour or two before placing inside your chassis so that a bond forms.

Lastly, get some airflow over the VRMs. The Antec Spot Cool is a good way to do that, or you can try ghetto rigging some smaller fans in order to get airflow over the VRMs.


----------



## bernieyee

thesebastian, let me know if the G10 fits in your case.

I have the same Evolv ITX and am looking for a better way to cool my Strix 970. It gets very hot when playing TW3 (around 80 degrees).

One option I've found is to use GPU COOL - http://www.overclock.net/t/1501480/the-artisan-store - from a local Overclock user. It's just the bracket, so you will need to figure out a way to cool the VRMs.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> [...]


I live in Europe and unfortunately I don't have that thermal pad you mention








(I'm used to buy everything from amazon.es .de or co.uk but I can't find everything there ).

I didn't know that thing about the Akasa thermal tape.

In that case, what about the 3M thermal tape (included in the package)?

I could buy the Enzotech MOS-C1 version (the smallest one / 2g per HS) and use the supplied 3M thermal tape.
According to 3M this tape isolates electricity.
And I saw a lot of good reviews in Newegg for this VRM HS.

What do you think?

Sent from my Nexus 5


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> I live in Europe and unfortunately I don't have that thermal pad you mention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I'm used to buy everything from amazon.es .de or co.uk but I can't find everything there ).
> 
> I didn't know that thing about the Akasa thermal tape.
> 
> In that case, what about the 3M thermal tape (included in the package)?
> 
> I could buy the Enzotech MOS-C1 version (the smallest one / 2g per HS) and use the supplied 3M thermal tape.
> According to 3M this tape isolates electricity.
> And I saw a lot of good reviews in Newegg for this VRM HS.
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5


Ahh darn, I will look around on amazon.es/.de.

Again, those heatsinks are copper and might fall off, not to mention, they are too tall. You want them to be 10mm tall at most, those are 12mm tall.
You also want thermal pads, not thermal tape.

I will look around on those websites to see if I can find anything.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@thesebastian

I just typed into amazon.de "thermal pad" and got a bunch of hits, I don't know German, so if you can find one of those popular brands that is double sided adhesive, and electrically non-conductive, that is what you want to use.

As for heatsinks, I think these are good ones. Does it come in a pack of 10? Aluminum Heatsinks


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @thesebastian
> 
> I just typed into amazon.de "thermal pad" and got a bunch of hits, I don't know German, so if you can find one of those popular brands that is double sided adhesive, and electrically non-conductive, that is what you want to use.
> 
> As for heatsinks, I think these are good ones. Does it come in a pack of 10? Aluminum Heatsinks


Thanks Pinko!

Your heatsinks have an excellent price, however, they are shipped from China and I want them as soon as possible









I found this today, what do you think?

- Heatsinks 12.3mm x 11.5mm x 5mm (I think they come with a tape attached but the seller says you could tell him if you want them without the tape).
- Themal Pad 1.79 pounds + 0.59 shipping to Spain.

I leave in Spain (Barcelona) and those items ship fast with a reasonable shipping price.

I have 2 doubts:
1) I'm not sure about the thermal pad, does it really hold some aluminium heatsinks upside down? (With direct small fan etc).
2) Each ebay_quantity includes 2 heatsinks. How many HS, should I buy? 4 HS for the mosfet, and a few more for the ram? (I don't care too much about ram, since the ram is nearly the GPU and the GPU will run at low temp with AIO_WC).


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Thanks Pinko!
> 
> Your heatsinks have an excellent price, however, they are shipped from China and I want them as soon as possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this today, what do you think?
> 
> - Heatsinks 12.3mm x 11.5mm x 5mm (I think they come with a tape attached but the seller says you could tell him if you want them without the tape).
> - Themal Pad 1.79 pounds + 0.59 shipping to Spain.
> 
> I leave in Spain (Barcelona) and those items ship fast with a reasonable shipping price.
> 
> I have 2 doubts:
> 1) I'm not sure about the thermal pad, does it really hold some aluminium heatsinks upside down? (With direct small fan etc).
> 2) Each ebay_quantity includes 2 heatsinks. How many HS, should I buy? 4 HS for the mosfet, and a few more for the ram? (I don't care too much about ram, since the ram is nearly the GPU and the GPU will run at low temp with AIO_WC).


The heat sinks you found are good, kinda expensive though. I would get 8-10, that should be more than enough. Better to have too many than too few.

The thermal pads are what scare me. You need to be absolutely, 100% sure that whatever thermal pads you get are electrically non-conductive. Call the manufacturer if you have to. This is not something to guess with, it must be electrically non-conductive.

As long as you get some double sided adhesive, and you use aluminum heat sinks, it should hold perfectly fine when upside down. I've only ever heard of people having problems with falling heat sinks when they use copper.
You're right, the VRAM doesn't get hot enough to worry about, so you only need to focus on the VRMs. Have you found a small fan that you can use to blow directly on the VRMs? If not, the Antec Spot Cool is a good product for that. Not many people do the G10 mod to the tiny cards, so you are somewhat of a pioneer.

Edit* Did some searching around and I think I found a good one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phobya-Thermal-pad-Ultra-5W-mk-1-5mm-120x20mm-/200715240644?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ebb8f84c4

Just make sure that it is double sided adhesive. I think it is, but please check and make sure.

Here is another option that for sure is double sided adhesive and electrically non conductive. Only .5mm though, whereas 1-1.5mm is ideal.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alphacool-Double-Sided-Sticky-Thermal-Pad-120x20x0-5mm-/190578217594?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c5f58d27a

I would personally go for the Phobya thermal pads if it is indeed double sided adhesive, which I think it is. Ask the seller/manufacturer to make sure.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> [...]


OK!

I just asked in Amazon.co.uk for the Phobya XT 120x20x1.5mm to know If it has double adhesive.

However. The eBay heatsinks include a 3M tape attached. So if they have no adhesive in one side I think I could use that tape right? (Or my Akasa tape)

So the 1st option is
http://www.amazon.es/Phobya-19101-W%C3%83%C2%A4rmeleitpad-XT-5x120x20/dp/B0051C372A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1433176795&sr=8-4&keywords=phobya+xt
10€ and free shipping, because i have "Amazon Prime". But I think I has only 1 sticky side.

And the 2nd option is (the same model you told me 5€ + 5€ shipping total 10€):
http://www.amazon.es/Alphacool-100-Self-Adhesive-Thermal/dp/B0051C3Y96/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1433176609&sr=8-2&keywords=alphacool+pad

The description says this: A holding power of at least 16N/25mm means an adhesive force greater than with some duct tapes!

And this: But the engineers at Alphacool also paid attention to the thermal conductivity aspect. Different from the first adhesive pads on the market, which were rather insulation than thermal conductor, these pads transfer the heat with a thermal conductivity of up to 1W/mK

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p946_Alphacool-double-sided-thermal-adhesive-pad-100x100x0-5mm.html


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@thesebastian

You will have to remove the pre-applied tape on the heatsinks. Remove the tape, and then clean the bottoms with isopropyl alcohol.

As far as the pads go, I can't read the specifics. It has to be electrically non-conductive, and double sided adhesive. Ideally 1 to 1.5mm in thickness.


----------



## penguinzrock

Does choice of cooler make a big difference in temperatures? Or will a Corsair H55 perform just as well on a GPU as a NZXT Kraken x41? I'm planning on using the G10 for a GTX 980 G1.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *penguinzrock*
> 
> Does choice of cooler make a big difference in temperatures? Or will a Corsair H55 perform just as well on a GPU as a NZXT Kraken x41? I'm planning on using the G10 for a GTX 980 G1.


H55 is the go-to recommendation because after 120mm, the diminishing returns hit hard. The difference between an H55 and X41 might be 5C.

I think you should just go for the H55, and buy some high end thermal compound, I recommend Gelid GC Extreme, and a 2nd 120mm fan for push/pull. Also, remember to set your radiator to exhaust.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I'm really excited for when someone does the G10 mod to a 980Ti, that is going to be amazing!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm really excited for when someone does the G10 mod to a 980Ti, that is going to be amazing!


Should be interesting. honestly though, getting maxwell to run cooler doesnt make anywhere near the difference it did with kepler.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Should be interesting. honestly though, getting maxwell to run cooler doesnt make anywhere near the difference it did with kepler.


Very true because of how power efficient Maxwell is, but I am still interested nonetheless.


----------



## Mnemo05

with the temps for the 980ti seen on review, I surely will not settle for the stock cooler on those cards


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> *


Pinko, according to the original PDF the Fujipoli is not electric conductive. And it is 1.5mm ( If the 2mm or 3mm version is better, just tell me )

I was planning to paste the thermal pad into the VRMs and also the "free PCB" part i have to the left to better attachment to the VGA, unless it is a bad idea...(With this I am meaning this: Cut it from 100mmx15mm to something like 65mm x *15mm*, instead of 65mm x *12 mm*, pasting the remaining 3mm to the left of the mosfet.

It is also seems to be double sided and has a good reputation so far...

Fujipoly Premium, 0.5mm, 6W/mK, Thermal Pad, 100mm x 15mm, Sarcon GR-m, Unit 1
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/181701214047?nav=SEARCH










*Edit: They Fujipoly are sticky, but (after more researching) I think they have no adhesive.. So let's better go for the alpacool.

The problem is, they are very thin (0.5mm, not 1mm-1.5mm). (Also they have a poor thermal conductivity, but i don't care as long as they hold the heatsink, they are the only ones with a description saying that they are able to hold heatsinks).
If i Buy the alpha cool, should I cut it in "squares". 1 square per Heat Sink? Or just paste a large thermal pad...something like 60mm x 20mm or 60mm x 14mm)

http://www.amazon.es/Alphacool-0-5mm-Double-Adhesive-Thermal/dp/B0051C3NHY
*

Sent from my Nexus 5


----------



## gl3nnn

How many slots does the entire bracket occupy (pump + bracket + fan)? I have the vrms on the left side of the PCB and i'm wondering if direct airflow is needed over the heatsinks. My case has a side vent intake, is that sufficient for airflow?


----------



## Mnemo05

^usually around 2.5 slots provided you wont be using those coolers with tall pump/block combo.. you can trim the "wing" a bit to get it under 2 slot which what I will do once I secure another 980 should I go for SLI


----------



## gl3nnn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> ^usually around 2.5 slots provided you wont be using those coolers with tall pump/block combo.. you can trim the "wing" a bit to get it under 2 slot which what I will do once I secure another 980 should I go for SLI


Does the Corsair H55 fall into the category of "tall pump/block combo" ?


----------



## thesebastian

I also have to select an AIO for my 970. But I think i prefer something more powerful than the H55.

P.S: There is a new HG10 bracket from Corsair for the 970 and the 980.

It sound interesting...But i don't know if it fits in my case.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Pinko, according to the original PDF the Fujipoli is not electric conductive. And it is 1.5mm ( If the 2mm or 3mm version is better, just tell me )
> 
> I was planning to paste the thermal pad into the VRMs and also the "free PCB" part i have to the left to better attachment to the VGA, unless it is a bad idea...(With this I am meaning this: Cut it from 100mmx15mm to something like 65mm x *15mm*, instead of 65mm x *12 mm*, pasting the remaining 3mm to the left of the mosfet.
> 
> It is also seems to be double sided and has a good reputation so far...
> 
> Fujipoly Premium, 0.5mm, 6W/mK, Thermal Pad, 100mm x 15mm, Sarcon GR-m, Unit 1
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/181701214047?nav=SEARCH
> 
> .jp
> 
> *Edit: They Fujipoly are sticky, but (after more researching) I think they have no adhesive.. So let's better go for the alpacool.
> 
> The problem is, they are very thin (0.5mm, not 1mm-1.5mm). (Also they have a poor thermal conductivity, but i don't care as long as they hold the heatsink, they are the only ones with a description saying that they are able to hold heatsinks).
> If i Buy the alpha cool, should I cut it in "squares". 1 square per Heat Sink? Or just paste a large thermal pad...something like 60mm x 20mm or 60mm x 14mm)
> 
> http://www.amazon.es/Alphacool-0-5mm-Double-Adhesive-Thermal/dp/B0051C3NHY
> *
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5


Just go with the Alphacool, it will be fine even at .5mm. I think it will be best to cut one large strip to cover all the VRMs instead of individual pieces. No need to add it anywhere other than the VRMs. No "paste" should be used. Just apply the thermal pad directly over the VRMs, then the heat sinks on top of the pads. Press lightly and let sit for an hour so a bond forms.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl3nnn*
> 
> How many slots does the entire bracket occupy (pump + bracket + fan)? I have the vrms on the left side of the PCB and i'm wondering if direct airflow is needed over the heatsinks. My case has a side vent intake, is that sufficient for airflow?


About 2 or 2.5. As someone else said, you can trim or bend the wing of the bracket to make it just 2 slots. Yes, you do absolutely need direct airflow over the VRMs. An Antec Spot Cool is a good product for that.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> I also have to select an AIO for my 970. But I think i prefer something more powerful than the H55.
> 
> P.S: There is a new HG10 bracket from Corsair for the 970 and the 980.
> 
> It sound interesting...But i don't know if it fits in my case.


The H55 is plenty powerful, especially for the energy efficient Maxwell GPUs. You hit very large diminishing returns past 120mm radiators. My best advice is to buy some high end thermal compound, such as Gelid GC Extreme, Prolimatech PK-3, IC Diamond, Noctua NT-H1, etc.. and a 2nd 120mm fan for push/pull.

The flaw with the HG10 brackets are that they are only compatible with reference design GPUs that have blower style fans. Plus, they aren't universal like the G10. With the G10, you can use it on reference, or non-reference as well as use it on a wide variety of new and old GPUs from both major companies.


----------



## gl3nnn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> About 2 or 2.5. As someone else said, you can trim or bend the wing of the bracket to make it just 2 slots. Yes, you do absolutely need direct airflow over the VRMs. An Antec Spot Cool is a good product for that.


Are there any other alternatives besides G10 and Corsair. I was actually looking at this http://chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=Gpu+bracket&product_id=1926 but idk if they are a trusted site to order from.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The H55 is plenty powerful, especially for the energy efficient Maxwell GPUs. You hit very large diminishing returns past 120mm radiators. My best advice is to buy some high end thermal compound, such as Gelid GC Extreme, Prolimatech PK-3, IC Diamond, Noctua NT-H1, etc.. and a 2nd 120mm fan for push/pull.
> 
> The flaw with the HG10 brackets are that they are only compatible with reference design GPUs that have blower style fans. Plus, they aren't universal like the G10. With the G10, you can use it on reference, or non-reference as well as use it on a wide variety of new and old GPUs from both major companies.


Regarding the HG10 N970...is for reference 970 PCB. My PCB seems to be non-reference (taller, and different position for the 2 VRM screw holes).

Regarding my G10 initiative:

Today I'm going to buy the Heatsinks and the Alphacool 0.5mm thermal pad double side adhesive.

I think I'm also buying the Kraken G10.

When the Kraken arrives, I will choose the AIO and try to "imagine" which fan fits there..( I prefer someting with 19 dBa or less, since all my others fans reachs 22-23dba at 100% speed with the noise adapter) I think I'm going for Noctua because they have a lot of info I use and many useful adaptors.

I currently have some NF-A14 PWM installed in my case (with the noise adaptor; when they reach 100% they have 19,2 dBA)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The H55 is plenty powerful, especially for the energy efficient Maxwell GPUs. .


Agreed, while I have not done it on maxwell, I did a comparison on the H55 and H90.....120mm vs 140mm on SLI 770 setup and the difference was only a few degrees C. Hardly worth the extra money for the larger radiator. As you always suggest, i must reinforce....The key is to make sure you have them setup to exhaust heat from the case, the amount of heat generated from these CLC/AIO-G10 setups is quite significant. Even with the maxwell 970 and 980 SLI setups, I would make the AC controller in the hallway click on within 20 minutes of starting to game. With the 770s it took about 10 minutes.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl3nnn*
> 
> Are there any other alternatives besides G10 and Corsair. I was actually looking at this http://chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=Gpu+bracket&product_id=1926 but idk if they are a trusted site to order from.


I got 2 from Kustom PC.
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_26061.html

Here's my experience with it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1203636/official-amd-ati-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-red-mod/2850#post_23909162

Having both the G10 and this Pulse Modding one, the G10 is easier to install and it holds the pump in better. The G10 has bent teeth to actually hold the pump in while the Pulse Modding one does not so if you wanted to twist the pump after installation, you can turn it till it pops off. Though at the end of the day, they both work but the G10 is certainly a better and more refined product.


----------



## Rickles

I've got a reference 980 Ti coming, but at $56 this thing doesn't quite seem to be there in terms of money spent for value...

I can rig up something with an old h60 of mine for much less...


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl3nnn*
> 
> Are there any other alternatives besides G10 and Corsair. I was actually looking at this http://chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=Gpu+bracket&product_id=1926 but idk if they are a trusted site to order from.


EVGA's site sells their AIO and shroud for a few select nvidia models for $109 (titan x/980 ti) and $99 (980), which is about the same as a kracken + h55 and a little more elegant looking.


----------



## thesebastian

Ok I just bought the Kraken G10, and the Thermal Pad.

I need to select the AIO:

I would like to use the AIO's fan at low speed...like 50-75% max. (Nothing louder than the NF-A14 fans with loud noise adaptor).

So I was thinking to buy something bigger than the H55 ( I have a lot of space at the top of the case) to be able to use it in "Silent mode".

Unless, the H55 works fine at 50%-75% speed. (O i could just buy another NF-F12 PWM for the H55. I have one NF-F12 in my CPU heatsink...If I have another one at 100% in full load, won't hurt at all).

Currently I have:
x3 NF-A14 PWM with L.N.A. (19,x dBa).
x1 NF-F12 PWM without L.N.A.
x1 PSU Fan, I think is really quiet, doesn't matters.
*x1 Stock Gigabyte 970 FAN (that will be replaced with the AIO Fan) => This is the main issue when gaming.* Terrible Loud and GPU thermal throttles easy...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> I would like to use the AIO fan at low speed...like 50-75% max. (Nothing louder than the NF-A14 fans with loud noise adaptor).
> 
> So I was thinking to buy something bigger than the H55 ( I have a lot of space at the top of the case).
> 
> Unless, the H55 works fine at 50%-75% speed. (O i could just buy another NF-F12 PWM, I have one NF-F12 in my CPU heatsink...If I have another one at 100% in full load, won't hurt at all).


If its a sound issue then a larger radiator would allow you to run the fans at a lower RPM most of the time. I simply use a fan controller that i can simply crank the fans up when i game and down when not. Also, there are much quieter fans available than what comes with the H55 kits.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If its a sound issue then a larger radiator would allow you to run the fans at a lower RPM most of the time. I simply use a fan controller that i can simply crank the fans up when i game and down when not. Also, there are much quieter fans available than what comes with the H55 kits.


Yes, maybe I could go for the H55 and If i have sound issues, change the fan with that NF-F12...It's the same fan i have in my CPU, so...I think they will do the same noise.

Consider that my 970 reachs easily 90C in Summer (with 30-35C)...With an H55 and the stock (or a better fan) I hope it's at 70-75C max. (Because now the VRAM won't have a HS, and the VRMs will have a small aluminium HS with some airflow from a fan.

Also, i want an AIO that works fine with a future GPU. Maybe i buy a 250W or more GPU in the future..

H55 costs 76€ here (NF-F12 costs 20€).
H90 costs 100€
H105 costs 130€


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> . Maybe i buy a 250W or more GPU in the future..


Hopefully you wont have to!. NVIDIA at least continues to drive the TDPs down. Hopefully AMD follows suit.

As for temps, I was getting well under 60C on both 970s I ran in SLI with G10/H90s. The beauty of running water on the GPU is you can dump the vast majority of the heat straight out when you have the radiator exhausting from the case.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Regarding the HG10 N970...is for reference 970 PCB. My PCB seems to be non-reference (taller, and different position for the 2 VRM screw holes).
> 
> Regarding my G10 initiative:
> 
> Today I'm going to buy the Heatsinks and the Alphacool 0.5mm thermal pad double side adhesive.
> 
> I think I'm also buying the Kraken G10.
> 
> When the Kraken arrives, I will choose the AIO and try to "imagine" which fan fits there..( I prefer someting with 19 dBa or less, since all my others fans reachs 22-23dba at 100% speed with the noise adapter) I think I'm going for Noctua because they have a lot of info I use and many useful adaptors.
> 
> I currently have some NF-A14 PWM installed in my case (with the noise adaptor; when they reach 100% they have 19,2 dBA)


Oh wow, Corsair finally fixed the biggest issue with the HG10. They are now including the Blower Style Fan. Before, they hadn't included the fan, and it was truly only compatible with reference design cards that already had the blower fan. This finally makes the HG10 more of a viable product in my opinion. I still like my universal G10, but now the HG10 is more of a competitor than lackey, it only took them two years.

What is there to imagine? Its pretty simple, you match the fan size to the radiator size you bought. Noctuas are great for silence, but their performance leaves some wanting more. check out thermalbench.com, its the best fan review website in my opinion. The Noctua fans, while quiet, are not performing well. The Cooler Master Blade Master 120s have a better noise/performance ratio than the Noctuas. Those are what I use, and I have them at a constant 1200rpm at all times, even when gaming/idle. It is nearly silent, and the performance is great, while cost wasn't bad.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The Noctua fans, while quiet, are not performing well. The Cooler Master Blade Master 120s have a better noise/performance ratio than the Noctuas. Those are what I use, and I have them at a constant 1200rpm at all times, even when gaming/idle. It is nearly silent, and the performance is great, while cost wasn't bad.


I have had good luck with Aerocool fans too.


----------



## Face2Face

I just ordered an Corsair H55 for my Lightning. I was using a Thermaltake Water Extreme 2.0 (240mm) and it took up way to much space in my Corsair 500R. I have the stock Air cooler back on, and the card is running really hot with SKYN3t BIOS with only +100mv @ 1293Mhz on the core - topping out at 85c @ 75% fan speed -- ouch. Never ran this hot before. Hurry up Amazon Prime one day shipping!


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Oh wow, Corsair finally fixed the biggest issue with the HG10. They are now including the Blower Style Fan. Before, they hadn't included the fan, and it was truly only compatible with reference design cards that already had the blower fan. This finally makes the HG10 more of a viable product in my opinion. I still like my universal G10, but now the HG10 is more of a competitor than lackey, it only took them two years.
> 
> What is there to imagine? Its pretty simple, you match the fan size to the radiator size you bought. Noctuas are great for silence, but their performance leaves some wanting more. check out thermalbench.com, its the best fan review website in my opinion. The Noctua fans, while quiet, are not performing well. The Cooler Master Blade Master 120s have a better noise/performance ratio than the Noctuas. Those are what I use, and I have them at a constant 1200rpm at all times, even when gaming/idle. It is nearly silent, and the performance is great, while cost wasn't bad.


EDIT: My bad, I was talking about the small fan pushing air to the VRM's heatsink. I don't know if will be a 60mm or 40mm fan. I would like something with PWM and less than 23 dba in full load.

Well I currently have 2 PWM fans controllers with a pretty "sensible" curve I've made. (based on CPU temp, the only temp measure my mother gives me).

CPU_FAN = x1 fan (Noctua NF-F12 PWM without L.N.A).
CHA_FAN = x3 fan (Noctua NF-A14 PWM with L.N.A.). When idle (30C) the fans run at 700-800RPM when load (42C) at 100% (1200RPM &19,2 dBa per FAN).
The curve is sensible, because the max CPU temp is 60C with P95 with the maximum heat test. (In games the CPU is at...38-42C).

My GPU fan controller, has only 3 pins, and it has a different pin distribution (at least, compared to Accelero Mono Plus, the cooler i wanted to try but failed, fan didn't work) so I won't use the GPU fan controller.

*So i would like to keep my "idle noises" (with 800 RPM. don't know the dBa / I think if i remove the L.N.A. from the 14mm fans, I can decrease the RPMs to 300-400, with L.N.A....can't do less than 600-650rpm) and also would like to keep my "full gpu load noises" with a maximum of 22,4 dBa per FAN or PUMP (the NF-F12 without L.N.A. has 22,4 dBa)* (I'm skipping the GPU fan for this..."the problem").

I never had WC before...I hope the H55 (In case i choose this cooler) "*pump*", is silent, because the pump will be connected to 100% speed always, right? (The pump is connected to a fixed 12v molex? Because my fan headers are variable).


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> EDIT: My bad, I was talking about the small fan pushing air to the VRM's heatsink. I don't know if will be a 60mm or 40mm fan. I would like something with PWM and less than 23 dba in full load.
> 
> Well I currently have 2 PWM fans controllers with a pretty "sensible" curve I've made. (based on CPU temp, the only temp measure my mother gives me).
> 
> CPU_FAN = x1 fan (Noctua NF-F12 PWM without L.N.A).
> CHA_FAN = x3 fan (Noctua NF-A14 PWM with L.N.A.). When idle (30C) the fans run at 700-800RPM when load (42C) at 100% (1200RPM &19,2 dBa per FAN).
> The curve is sensible, because the max CPU temp is 60C with P95 with the maximum heat test. (In games the CPU is at...38-42C).
> 
> My GPU fan controller, has only 3 pins, and it has a different pin distribution (at least, compared to Accelero Mono Plus, the cooler i wanted to try but failed, fan didn't work) so I won't use the GPU fan controller.
> 
> *So i would like to keep my "idle noises" (with 800 RPM. don't know the dBa / I think if i remove the L.N.A. from the 14mm fans, I can decrease the RPMs to 300-400, with L.N.A....can't do less than 600-650rpm) and also would like to keep my "full gpu load noises" with a maximum of 22,4 dBa per FAN or PUMP (the NF-F12 without L.N.A. has 22,4 dBa)* (I'm skipping the GPU fan for this..."the problem").
> 
> I never had WC before...I hope the H55 (In case i choose this cooler) "*pump*", is silent, because the pump will be connected to 100% speed always, right? (The pump is connected to a fixed 12v molex? Because my fan headers are variable).


I don't know the specifics of your chassis, so you will have to figure out the right fan size for the custom VRM fan once you get that far. You are going to want to keep this fan at or near 100% speed at all times. VRMs are not something you get cute with.

All AIOs are going to emit some pump noise. You can minimize this by plugging the AIO in without attaching it to anything, and moving the radiator/pump around until the air bubbles circulate out of the pump.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT_u_eLVoIc

You are going to want to plug the H55's pump directly to your PSU via molex adapter if you can. Or, directly to a fan controller/mobo fan header and set it to 100%.


----------



## masteratarms

I'm in the club.










I bought:

OcUK Tech Labs 240mm+ Kraken Extreme VGA Cooling Upgrade Bundle - Premium - Black Shroud £60.22 1 £60.22
Silverstone SST-FW91 FW Series 92mm PWM £5.79 1 £5.79
Three Fan Bundle - CM Megaflow 200mm LED Fan - Blue £0.81 1 £0.81
FREE SHIPPING (DPD Next Day): £0.00
VAT: £13.36
Order Total: £80.18

Also £15 2 x 200mm to 140/120mm bitspower fan adapters, a gelid 4pin PWM adapter (ebay) for use with the SST-FW91. I did have rivatuner working with my x1900xt but more drivers are missing for my 6850.

This is my riva tuner thread, however just ramping up the fan pointed at the VRM on gpu temps alone seems sufficient atm.
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=5087764#post5087764

I obviously heatsinked my vrms and also did the memory (why not?). I had some Thermaltake ram sinks laying about and reused them with a little hacksawing/ sanding.


----------



## Mnemo05

i am using an antec 920 on mine, the pump itself is below 2 slot in height

the hg10 bracket is best used for stock/blower type coolers, cant use it on my 980 amp.. it kinda hard to find a blower type 980 here in singapore


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> [...]


Pinko,

Today I will receive the Kraken. (and during this/next week, the VRM heatsinks and the thermal pad).

I still need to buy:

*- The AIO*
- The VRM Fan.
- A molex to fan adapter for the PUMP. (Can I use the Pump at a constant, not variable, speed lower than 12V? or is unhealthy for the pump?. In that case, i could use the mother SYS_FAN header at 80% speed or something like that, and connect all other fans to the CPU_FAN header ) .
- extras: Isoprophyl alcohol (unless i can use the medicinal 96º alcohol) to clean VRMs/Heatsink. And maybe I should buy one of those "10 bucks IR Thermomether" for the VRM.

I would like to focus on the AIO....I managed to upload some pictures of my case in my signature.
- If I buy the H55, I'm pretty sure I will end buying a PWM Fan. (And the price will be similar to the H90).
- If I buy the H90, maybe I could use my current rear exhaust fan and save some money. (I think i don't need more exhausts fans, I have 2 intakes and 1 exhaust and 1 psu exhaust).

I have a lot of size, the top is empty. (BUT, the pump's hose maybe doesn't reach everywhere).

Which is better?
A) < REAR or TOP of the case <---- Radiator <---- 120mm or 140mm exhaust fan (PUSHING air into the radiator) > (I assume this is the best option with only 1 fan).
B) < REAR or TOP of the case <---- 120mm or 140mm exhaust fan (PULLING air from the radiator) <---- Radiator >

PS: Sorry for writing these long posts... Tell me if it bothers you and I will try to ask less things. No hard feelings!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Pinko,
> 
> Today I will receive the Kraken. (and during this/next week, the VRM heatsinks and the thermal pad).
> 
> I still need to buy:
> 
> *- The AIO*
> - The VRM Fan.
> - A molex to fan adapter for the PUMP. (Can I use the Pump at a constant, not variable, speed lower than 12V? or is unhealthy for the pump?. In that case, i could use the mother SYS_FAN header at 80% speed or something like that, and connect all other fans to the CPU_FAN header ) .
> - extras: Isoprophyl alcohol (unless i can use the medicinal 96º alcohol) to clean VRMs/Heatsink. And maybe I should buy one of those "10 bucks IR Thermomether" for the VRM.
> 
> I would like to focus on the AIO....I managed to upload some pictures of my case in my signature.
> - If I buy the H55, I'm pretty sure I will end buying a PWM Fan. (And the price will be similar to the H90).
> - If I buy the H90, maybe I could use my current rear exhaust fan and save some money. (I think i don't need more exhausts fans, I have 2 intakes and 1 exhaust and 1 psu exhaust).
> 
> I have a lot of size, the top is empty. (BUT, the pump's hose maybe doesn't reach everywhere).
> 
> Which is better?
> A) < REAR or TOP of the case <---- Radiator <---- 120mm or 140mm exhaust fan (PUSHING air into the radiator) > (I assume this is the best option with only 1 fan).
> B) < REAR or TOP of the case <---- 120mm or 140mm exhaust fan (PULLING air from the radiator) <---- Radiator >
> 
> PS: Sorry for writing these long posts... Tell me if it bothers you and I will try to ask less things. No hard feelings!


What I think you will hear Pinko and I keep repeating predominantly is the that the most important aspect to mounting the radiator (Other than making sure you have a place to mount it







) is to have it set to exhaust heat from the case. You seem to understand this. As for what otherwise works best, there is no magic formula and it can and will vary wildly. Both of my H90s are setup with the fans pulling air through the radiator. While it works great, this was out of necessity due to a complete lack of room in my case. My fans are actually mounted on the outside of the case to the radiator on the other side of the panel. I had to get creative like this with both H90s and the H110 due to all the stuff I have crammed into this case. It doesnt look ghetto or anything, I bought nice grill covers etc, LOL. But it works very well for me as is. If you have the room, you can try them both ways if you have the time to see if there is any significant difference for you.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> What I think you will hear Pinko and I keep repeating predominantly is the that the most important aspect to mounting the radiator (Other than making sure you have a place to mount it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) is to have it set to exhaust heat from the case. You seem to understand this. As for what otherwise works best, there is no magic formula and it can and will vary wildly. Both of my H90s are setup with the fans pulling air through the radiator. While it works great, this was out of necessity due to a complete lack of room in my case. My fans are actually mounted on the outside of the case to the radiator on the other side of the panel. I had to get creative like this with both H90s and the H110 due to all the stuff I have crammed into this case. It doesnt look ghetto or anything, I bought nice grill covers etc, LOL. But it works very well for me as is. If you have the room, you can try them both ways if you have the time to see if there is any significant difference for you.


Thanks. I think I'll go for the H90.

I also read, in some reviews, that the H90's fan is not really loud. So maybe I'll install it at the top corner without using the rear Noctua fan. If the pump hose doesn't reach the top, I could switch places between the radiator and the rear exhaust fan.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Thanks. I think I'll go for the H90.
> 
> I also read, in some reviews, that the H90's fan is not really loud. So maybe I'll install it at the top corner without using the rear Noctua fan. If the pump hose doesn't reach the top, I could switch places between the radiator and the rear exhaust fan.


In my 400R case, I was able to reach the top rear 140mm fan mount with the H-90 mounted on the gpu and one fan in pull configuration behind it. Not sure how my case compares to yours but you can probably pull it off.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Pinko,
> 
> Today I will receive the Kraken. (and during this/next week, the VRM heatsinks and the thermal pad).
> 
> I still need to buy:
> 
> *- The AIO*
> - The VRM Fan.
> - A molex to fan adapter for the PUMP. (Can I use the Pump at a constant, not variable, speed lower than 12V? or is unhealthy for the pump?. In that case, i could use the mother SYS_FAN header at 80% speed or something like that, and connect all other fans to the CPU_FAN header ) .
> - extras: Isoprophyl alcohol (unless i can use the medicinal 96º alcohol) to clean VRMs/Heatsink. And maybe I should buy one of those "10 bucks IR Thermomether" for the VRM.
> 
> I would like to focus on the AIO....I managed to upload some pictures of my case in my signature.
> - If I buy the H55, I'm pretty sure I will end buying a PWM Fan. (And the price will be similar to the H90).
> - If I buy the H90, maybe I could use my current rear exhaust fan and save some money. (I think i don't need more exhausts fans, I have 2 intakes and 1 exhaust and 1 psu exhaust).
> 
> I have a lot of size, the top is empty. (BUT, the pump's hose maybe doesn't reach everywhere).
> 
> Which is better?
> A) < REAR or TOP of the case <---- Radiator <---- 120mm or 140mm exhaust fan (PUSHING air into the radiator) > (I assume this is the best option with only 1 fan).
> B) < REAR or TOP of the case <---- 120mm or 140mm exhaust fan (PULLING air from the radiator) <---- Radiator >
> 
> PS: Sorry for writing these long posts... Tell me if it bothers you and I will try to ask less things. No hard feelings!


You can use a motherboard fan header to power the pump if you want, but it should be at 100% speed. A molex to 3pin adapter is nice because it frees up a valuable motherboard fan header.
I think you can use medicinal alcohol, I have never heard of it before, but if its 96% I don't see why not. Yea, a cheap IR thermometer isn't a bad idea, especially with your situation.

Buy either AIO you like. Its up to you. You cant go wrong with either.

You will want to mount it as rear exhaust. Not only to get all of that hot air out of your case, but because the tube length might not allow you to place it anywhere else, and it would look weird if it was going from GPU to top exhaust in my opinion.

Rear exhaust, push/pull blowing air out of the back of your case.

I don't mind with the long posts, I enjoy them! It means you are thinking things through with detailed answers. I love helping people with their G10 questions. Especially when doing it to an ITX card. You will be the first person I know of who has tried this, so I am excited to learn about your results. If you do buy the IR thermometer, you should check what VRM temps are with the stock cooler so we know the before and after.


----------



## thesebastian

Thanks @Pinko & @Ultisym for the answers. I will go for the H90.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Rear exhaust, push/pull blowing air out of the back of your case.


I had a question about this. The combination for the "Rear" fan socket will be this?

*A)* Air coming out of the Case <-- *"Case Wall/Socket"* <-- "Radiator (Inside the case)" <-- "140mm FAN (Inside the case)" <-- (There is no fan pulling air from the radiator).
_(The arrow <-- indicates the direction of air.)_

Or, this?

*B)* Air coming out of the Case <-- *"Case Wall/Socket"* <-- "140mm FAN (Inside the case) <-- "Radiator (Inside the case)" <-- (There is no fan pushing air to the radiator).

Both options are exhausting air from the case.
I prefer the second one (because the fan is near the Case wall), but I never had a "Heatsink" (radiator in this case) without a fan pushing air.

P.S.: The Kraken has arrived.

What if i put the fan like this?



It won't work, right? ( I would still need a smaller FAN pushing air directly to the heatsinks....).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> thesebastian, let me know if the G10 fits in your case.
> 
> I have the same Evolv ITX and am looking for a better way to cool my Strix 970. It gets very hot when playing TW3 (around 80 degrees).
> 
> One option I've found is to use GPU COOL - http://www.overclock.net/t/1501480/the-artisan-store - from a local Overclock user. It's just the bracket, so you will need to figure out a way to cool the VRMs.


It seems to fit (without modding the Kraken) but let's wait next week for the remaining parts.

This is a generic kraken image:



http://imgur.com/Y2njy5X

http://imgur.com/6ycboCC


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Case || <-Fan || Radiator || <-Fan

It looks like you have a really large heatsink for your CPU, so push pull might not be an option if two fans is too thick. If it is, then just a single fan in push, blowing out of the chassis.

Case || Radiator || <-Fan


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Case || <-Fan || Radiator || <-Fan
> 
> It looks like you have a really large heatsink for your CPU, so push pull might not be an option if two fans is too thick. If it is, then just a single fan in push, blowing out of the chassis.
> 
> Case || Radiator || <-Fan


Yes, I will use the second option. There is no place for 2 fans + radiator 25+27+25 = 77mm...

But I will put the remaining 140mm fan exhausting at the "TOP" fan socket.

----

Can I put the radiator facing down or facing up? (pipes Up vs pipes Down).
And the hoses can go UP and then DOWN again without a problem? (In case, there is a short space between the radiator pipes and the pump pipes).

I'm trying to think all this, because it is an ITX mother and case







And distances/spaces are short.

Maybe I can't put the radiator with the pipes up or down / or maybe the hoses are like spaghetti, etc. :

(The ironic thing is, the east part of my case is a desert).


----------



## Ultisym

The fan position in your example 2 would be my suggestion because it will give you a little more range for setup with the already short AIO/CLC tubing. Every little bit helps.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Yes, I will use the second option. There is no place for 2 fans + radiator 25+27+25 = 77mm...
> 
> But I will put the remaining 140mm fan exhausting at the "TOP" fan socket.


I don't see why you can't do something like this but add a 120mm grill on the outside so you don't get your fingers chopped off whenever you decide to reach around back while the computer is running.
http://technoinfotainment.blogspot.ca/2010/07/corsair-hydro-series-h50-cpu-cooler_01.html


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Yes, I will use the second option. There is no place for 2 fans + radiator 25+27+25 = 77mm...
> 
> But I will put the remaining 140mm fan exhausting at the "TOP" fan socket.
> 
> ----
> 
> Can I put the radiator facing down or facing up? (pipes Up vs pipes Down).
> And the hoses can go UP and then DOWN again without a problem? (In case, there is a short space between the radiator pipes and the pump pipes).
> 
> I'm trying to think all this, because it is an ITX mother and case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And distances/spaces are short.
> 
> Maybe I can't put the radiator with the pipes up or down / or maybe the hoses are like spaghetti, etc. :
> 
> (The ironic thing is, the east part of my case is a desert).


You can put the pipes up or down, it doesn't matter. I have mine as rear exhaust, with the pipes leaving the top of the radiator, but going down to my GPU, looks kinda funky, but the tubing I have was extra long.


----------



## thesebastian

Haha ok.

Thanks all for the answers. I think I will try all of them sooner or later.

*Regarding the VRM's FAN...*

The 60x60x25 fan i wanted, won't fit under the PCB, because of the Kraken's screw's and the aluminium DVI internal connector ( I made a "paper fan" to help me see this).

A smaller fan should fit well.

http://imgur.com/BLLFv7z

http://imgur.com/hAoMLB5

I like this one: NF-A4x10 FLX

Size: 40x40x10 mm
Airflow 8,2 m³/h
Airflow with L.N.A. 6,6 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 17,9 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 12,9 dB(A)
Static Pressure 1,78 mm H2O
Static Pressure with L.N.A. 1,21 mm H2O

> If i use the L.N.A. i could leave it at 100% speed 24/7 (since 12,9 dB(A) is nothing).
To "level-up" the FAN i was thinking to use the included 4 fan screws, in order to put the fan near the VRM.

> In case i can't use L.N.A. (because of the SP and the Airflow), I think I could connect this VRM fan to the SYS_FAN header where I have 3 equal PWM fans, but only the first FAN is connected with the PWM pin). Question: If i add a "different fan" to this "chain", the "different fan" will have controlled speed too?. (I never understood completely the dif. between 3 pins fans and 4 pins fans when I use the motherboard to control the speed of one fan with 4 pins and the rest of them with only 3 pins. However, this is another topic...).


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I don't recommend using the low noise adapter.

You are already going somewhat outside the intended use of the G10 and its 92mm fan, so I wouldn't risk it by using slow fan speeds. The VRMs are something that MUST be kept cool at all times. You want as powerful a fan as you can fit in there to be blowing air directly on the VRMs. If you do go with that Noctua fan, you should have it set to 100% fan speed at all times, without the low noise adapter, and hope that it is enough to keep the VRMs cool.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Haha ok.
> 
> Thanks all for the answers. I think I will try all of them sooner or later.
> 
> *Regarding the VRM's FAN...*
> 
> The 60x60x25 fan i wanted, won't fit under the PCB, because of the Kraken's screw's and the aluminium DVI internal connector ( I made a "paper fan" to help me see this).
> 
> A smaller fan should fit well.
> 
> http://imgur.com/BLLFv7z
> 
> http://imgur.com/hAoMLB5
> 
> I like this one: NF-A4x10 FLX
> 
> Size: 40x40x10 mm
> Airflow 8,2 m³/h
> Airflow with L.N.A. 6,6 m³/h
> Acoustical Noise 17,9 dB(A)
> Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 12,9 dB(A)
> Static Pressure 1,78 mm H2O
> Static Pressure with L.N.A. 1,21 mm H2O
> 
> > If i use the L.N.A. i could leave it at 100% speed 24/7 (since 12,9 dB(A) is nothing).
> To "level-up" the FAN i was thinking to use the included 4 fan screws, in order to put the fan near the VRM.
> 
> > In case i can't use L.N.A. (because of the SP and the Airflow), I think I could connect this VRM fan to the SYS_FAN header where I have 3 equal PWM fans, but only the first FAN is connected with the PWM pin). Question: If i add a "different fan" to this "chain", the "different fan" will have controlled speed too?. (I never understood completely the dif. between 3 pins fans and 4 pins fans when I use the motherboard to control the speed of one fan with 4 pins and the rest of them with only 3 pins. However, this is another topic...).


you could always look at one of noctuas thin 92mm fans (not at quiet but better airflow.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I don't recommend using the low noise adapter.
> 
> You are already going somewhat outside the intended use of the G10 and its 92mm fan, so I wouldn't risk it by using slow fan speeds. The VRMs are something that MUST be kept cool at all times. You want as powerful a fan as you can fit in there to be blowing air directly on the VRMs. If you do go with that Noctua fan, you should have it set to 100% fan speed at all times, without the low noise adapter, and hope that it is enough to keep the VRMs cool.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> you could always look at one of noctuas thin 92mm fans (not at quiet but better airflow.


- Well, the good thing about the 40x10mm fan is that, *I can put it VERY near the heatsink.* (And maybe i could put 2 of them and made a 80x40x10mm fan rectangle).

- Regarding the 92x14mm fan, It could work..(but *40% of the fan would be under the PUMP and the heatisnks have a width of 13-14mm, that is less than the 25% of the fan).* To use this i need to know the distance between the Corsair Pump and the bottom of my case (Or between the Pump and the tallest part of the metal corner of the G10, where the word "NZXT." is printed). ( I have like 2.5 PCI slots and the Pump use something between 1 and 2 PCI slots).

Regarding the Static Pressure: *the 40x10mm has 1,78 mm H2O while the 92x14mm has 1,64 mm H2O.* I don't know If it's is possible to compare the SP "just like that". (Maybe it has nothing to do with this, because they are both totally different fans). (The airflow is 8,2 m³/h vs 50,5 m³/h respectively).

I think that more SP & more proximity to the HS, could be better than less proximity and less SP with much more "unfocused" airflow.

And the airflow under the Video card seems to be fine (exhausting with the PSU's fan), because with this new case I'm having better temps compared to my previous case with the cover open.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

hi guys im swapping out my r9 290 for an Asus GTX 970 DC Mini i picked up on the cheap (380AUD winning) and the kraken g10 will be mostly useless in terms of the size of it on a 17cm pcb.

does anyone have an alternative for me? im looking at making my own bracket out of an asetek bracket to mimic the g10 - either that or ill take my dremel to the g10 and cut it right down.

does anyone have a spare dwood or pulse modding bracket or such? ive looked at chilledpc but they dont seem to ship to AUS and havent responded to me about why i cant purchase a bracket. lame!

ive looked at the GPUcool bracket on the artisan store but i think its gunna be too deep with the long screws and extra depth with the plate.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> hi guys im swapping out my r9 290 for an Asus GTX 970 DC Mini i picked up on the cheap (380AUD winning) and the kraken g10 will be mostly useless in terms of the size of it on a 17cm pcb.
> 
> does anyone have an alternative for me? im looking at making my own bracket out of an asetek bracket to mimic the g10 - either that or ill take my dremel to the g10 and cut it right down.
> 
> does anyone have a spare dwood or pulse modding bracket or such? ive looked at chilledpc but they dont seem to ship to AUS and havent responded to me about why i cant purchase a bracket. lame!
> 
> ive looked at the GPUcool bracket on the artisan store but i think its gunna be too deep with the long screws and extra depth with the plate.


That is pretty similar to my scenario. I have the Gigabyte 970 ITX.

Anyway, I think the 970s reference are "mini" with left VRMs (Or at least some of them).

I'm going to use the Kraken G10 without the fan. (That's why I'm trying to put two small fans very near to the VRM heatsinks).


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> hi guys im swapping out my r9 290 for an Asus GTX 970 DC Mini i picked up on the cheap (380AUD winning) and the kraken g10 will be mostly useless in terms of the size of it on a 17cm pcb.
> 
> does anyone have an alternative for me? im looking at making my own bracket out of an asetek bracket to mimic the g10 - either that or ill take my dremel to the g10 and cut it right down.
> 
> does anyone have a spare dwood or pulse modding bracket or such? ive looked at chilledpc but they dont seem to ship to AUS and havent responded to me about why i cant purchase a bracket. lame!
> 
> ive looked at the GPUcool bracket on the artisan store but i think its gunna be too deep with the long screws and extra depth with the plate.


I would just leave the g10 as is. Dont cut it down, that way in the future if you ever wanted to sell it, it wont be damaged.


----------



## trombman

Has any one tried using Enzotech BCC9 VGA Cooler heatsinks on the gtx 980 reference pcb with the kraken g10?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trombman*
> 
> Has any one tried using Enzotech BCC9 VGA Cooler heatsinks on the gtx 980 reference pcb with the kraken g10?


Ive used some similar to those on the SLI 770 setup I had. The trick is getting those heavier ones to stick and stay that way through all the heat cycles. First thing is to clean everything with alcohol extremely well. I then put them on with the gpus horizontal, warmed them up well with a hair dryer several times while having a book i think on top applying mild down pressure. LOL, maybe all this helped, none ever fell off. Or i could of just gotten lucky.


----------



## trombman

Did you use them on the vrms as well?


----------



## trombman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ive used some similar to those on the SLI 770 setup I had. The trick is getting those heavier ones to stick and stay that way through all the heat cycles. First thing is to clean everything with alcohol extremely well. I then put them on with the gpus horizontal, warmed them up well with a hair dryer several times while having a book i think on top applying mild down pressure. LOL, maybe all this helped, none ever fell off. Or i could of just gotten lucky.


Did you use them on the vrms as well?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trombman*
> 
> Did you use them on the vrms as well?


No, ASUS had a nice vrm heatsink on already.


----------



## Evoxity

Did anyone tried to use this on the EVGA 980 K|NGP|N with the stock vrm heatsink?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoxity*
> 
> Did anyone tried to use this on the EVGA 980 K|NGP|N with the stock vrm heatsink?


It should work very well because EVGA designs some very nice stock VRM heatsinks.


----------



## John Shepard

Anybody tried this on a titan X?

How are you cooling the VRMs and VRAM?

How many heatsinks should i get?

What dimensions do they need to be?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Shepard*
> 
> Anybody tried this on a titan X?
> 
> How are you cooling the VRMs and VRAM?
> 
> How many heatsinks should i get?
> 
> What dimensions do they need to be?


If you plan on doing this to a Titan X, you are going to need some extras in order to adequately cool the VRMs. VRAM isn't an issue because it doesn't get hot enough, but VRMs are something you need to be very cognizant of.

Obviously you need the G10 Bracket + AIO of choice.

This is your Titan X PCB:


In yellow are the VRMs. In Orange is the VGA Fan header, more on that later. For now, lets talk about the VRMs.

You are going to need to buy thermal pads and aluminum heatsinks. Assuming you live in the U.S., here are the ones I recommend:
Thermal Pads
Aluminum Heatsinks

What you will do is first clean the backs of the aluminum heatsinks. They come with some thermal tape pre-applied and you don't want that there. You want a nice clean surface between the heatsink and thermal pad. Clean the bottoms well with isopropyl alcohol. This is time consuming, but its worth it in the end.

On to actual installation:
You will first apply the thermal pads over the VRMs. Then you place the clean heatsinks on top of the thermal pads. This is a rough idea of what it should look like before adding heatsinks over the thermal pads.


Press the heatsinks down onto the pads so that a bond forms. You want to let them sit for about an hour or two so the adhesion really sticks. Remember, these will be upside down once mounted in your chassis.

Because this is a $1000 GPU you are going to want to buy a more powerful 92mm fan. I recommend the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm, its cheap, powerful, and PWM. You will also want to buy a VGA to PWM adapter This will plug directly into the GPU, as shown in the picture above circled in orange. The other end connects to the fan. This will allow you to control the fan in MSI Afterburner, and it frees up a valuable mobo fan header. You do want to run this fan at reasonably high speeds because this is the VRMs we're talking about, and if you dial in a very high OC, you have to keep the VRMs nice and cool.

I hope that this has answered the majority of your questions, if you have anything else that you are wondering about, please don't hesitate to ask! Please report back with your results and pictures so we can see what kind of performance you are getting doing the G10 to the Titan X!


----------



## jezzer

The vrms are not in contact with a heatsink with the stock cooler right and only cooled by air, why doesnt this kraken fan designed to cool them cool them?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> The vrms are not in contact with a heatsink with the stock cooler right and only cooled by air, why doesnt this kraken fan designed to cool them cool them?


Greatly depends on which cooler is being used. The Kraken G10 does a good job of cooling the VRMs on the vast majority of cards.


----------



## eZaCx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> If you plan on doing this to a Titan X, you are going to need some extras in order to adequately cool the VRMs. VRAM isn't an issue because it doesn't get hot enough, but VRMs are something you need to be very cognizant of.
> 
> Obviously you need the G10 Bracket + AIO of choice.
> 
> This is your Titan X PCB:
> 
> 
> In yellow are the VRMs. In Orange is the VGA Fan header, more on that later. For now, lets talk about the VRMs.
> 
> You are going to need to buy thermal pads and aluminum heatsinks. Assuming you live in the U.S., here are the ones I recommend:
> Thermal Pads
> Aluminum Heatsinks
> 
> What you will do is first clean the backs of the aluminum heatsinks. They come with some thermal tape pre-applied and you don't want that there. You want a nice clean surface between the heatsink and thermal pad. Clean the bottoms well with isopropyl alcohol. This is time consuming, but its worth it in the end.
> 
> On to actual installation:
> You will first apply the thermal pads over the VRMs. Then you place the clean heatsinks on top of the thermal pads. This is a rough idea of what it should look like before adding heatsinks over the thermal pads.
> 
> 
> Press the heatsinks down onto the pads so that a bond forms. You want to let them sit for about an hour or two so the adhesion really sticks. Remember, these will be upside down once mounted in your chassis.
> 
> Because this is a $1000 GPU you are going to want to buy a more powerful 92mm fan. I recommend the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm, its cheap, powerful, and PWM. You will also want to buy a VGA to PWM adapter This will plug directly into the GPU, as shown in the picture above circled in orange. The other end connects to the fan. This will allow you to control the fan in MSI Afterburner, and it frees up a valuable mobo fan header. You do want to run this fan at reasonably high speeds because this is the VRMs we're talking about, and if you dial in a very high OC, you have to keep the VRMs nice and cool.
> 
> I hope that this has answered the majority of your questions, if you have anything else that you are wondering about, please don't hesitate to ask! Please report back with your results and pictures so we can see what kind of performance you are getting doing the G10 to the Titan X!


Thank you for such an informative post. I was planning to get the 980 ti. Do you think the kraken g10 will be compatible with that? If so do you think it will share the same PCB layout as the titan?


----------



## masteratarms

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=28124085&highlight=waterblock#post28124085

Just incase your not a member:

"Well they just shipped out my Titan waterblock, But no signs of shipping out my 980TI, Looks like its going to be delayed today"

"
Originally Posted by RyanF View Post
Out of curiosity, what blocks did you go for?
I've gone for the EKWB Titan X full cover acetal with the backplate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Techen
A quick question, Am guessing my 980 Waterblock wont fit the 980 TI, But will the Titan X waterblock fit a 980 TI? So I can order a block right bloody now, Thanks








As S2KIP mentioned, yes the TX blocks will fit. An EK rep posted on reddit that they will fit and they therefore won't make a version specific to the 980Ti. So the block you linked to will be fine. "

http://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/385xbq/980_ti_waterblocks_evga_or_wait_for_ekwb/crsv9ig

"EK_Luc 2 points 5 days ago

Originally there was suppose to be a 980Ti block but since the Titan X waterblock is compatible, it will be used has the official waterblock for the 980Ti."

Last quote was from offcial rep.

Here is my 3dmark06 bench on a eah6850.
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/17778832
Asus vga driver>gpu tweak>msi afterbuner>uninstall control center and driver and update to latest. U now have unlocked clocks and a little voltage adjustment. I've seen people talk of a 1.233v max but for a 6850 with default load voltage of 1.157v vs a 6870's 1.2v its a little better.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eZaCx*
> 
> Thank you for such an informative post. I was planning to get the 980 ti. Do you think the kraken g10 will be compatible with that? If so do you think it will share the same PCB layout as the titan?


Yes and Yes, it is compatible and the PCB is almost identical. Just make sure to add the extras like I recommended.


----------



## missalaire

Has anyone tried using the G10 with a GTX 980 Ti yet?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> Has anyone tried using the G10 with a GTX 980 Ti yet?


Not yet, but I have been helping a bunch of people asking about it over on Linus Tech Tips. Hopefully they will follow through and post some results for us to ogle at.


----------



## The-Barbeerian

ill be putting a G10 on my 980 Ti this week. Im using a Kraken X31 and VRM heatsinks. Ill post about it when done


----------



## penguinzrock

Hi everyone! Just posting for reference, in case anyone else is searching for how well this goes:

I'm running a single Gigabyte GTX 980 G1 Gaming edition with a Corsair H55, push/pull setup as exhaust. I replaced the pre-applied paste with Gelid Extreme. The second fan comes from an H80.
The bracket itself fits, but I use configuration A, and the GPU screws are a bit too short, so the pump isn't screwed on as tightly as I'd like.

@60Hz, 1440p:
My GPU idles at 36C with the fans on silent mode, and 30C on performance mode.
The chip clocks a high of 1354 Mhz at no extra voltage, and reaches a max of 46C.
Highest stable benchmark with +87 mV is 1559 Mhz, max temperature of 51C. Arteficing begins at 1579 Mhz.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *penguinzrock*
> 
> Hi everyone! Just posting for reference, in case anyone else is searching for how well this goes:
> 
> I'm running a single Gigabyte GTX 980 G1 Gaming edition with a Corsair H55, push/pull setup as exhaust. I replaced the pre-applied paste with Gelid Extreme. The second fan comes from an H80.
> The bracket itself fits, but I use configuration A, and the GPU screws are a bit too short, so the pump isn't screwed on as tightly as I'd like.
> 
> @60Hz, 1440p:
> My GPU idles at 36C with the fans on silent mode, and 30C on performance mode.
> The chip clocks a high of 1354 Mhz at no extra voltage, and reaches a max of 46C.
> Highest stable benchmark with +87 mV is 1559 Mhz, max temperature of 51C. Arteficing begins at 1579 Mhz.


Those are some amazing results! Wow, really nice GPU you got there. I wouldn't bother playing around with it personally, but if you really want, you can get the pump more secure. What you would have to do is take everything apart. On the G10's mounting back bracket there is a rubbery/foam like piece that is pretty thick. If you thin that piece down, or remove it completely, you will have better contact between the pump and Die. Not something you have to mess with because your temps are so good as is, but in case you wanted to.


----------



## penguinzrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Those are some amazing results! Wow, really nice GPU you got there. I wouldn't bother playing around with it personally, but if you really want, you can get the pump more secure. What you would have to do is take everything apart. On the G10's mounting back bracket there is a rubbery/foam like piece that is pretty thick. If you thin that piece down, or remove it completely, you will have better contact between the pump and Die. Not something you have to mess with because your temps are so good as is, but in case you wanted to.


Thanks for the tip! I'll be moving my computer soon, so that will be the perfect time to remove that bit of foam while I'm at it.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> Has anyone tried using the G10 with a GTX 980 Ti yet?


Reference 980ti models will work with the G10.







get to cooling those cards.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> Has anyone tried using the G10 with a GTX 980 Ti yet?
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet, but I have been helping a bunch of people asking about it over on Linus Tech Tips. Hopefully they will follow through and post some results for us to ogle at.
Click to expand...

The items arrived.

I'm feeling a totally noob doing this...haha

1) Is the any problem leaving that pad remaining at the left?

2) and what about that capacitor near the heatsink. Could be a problem?

(Remember that this 0.5mm thermal pad is non conductive).

Sent from my Nexus 5


----------



## thesebastian

I forgot the pics:


























Sent from my Nexus 5


----------



## jezzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Reference 980ti models will work with the G10.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> get to cooling those cards.


VRM heatsinks a must icm 980 Ti or will it operate within specs?


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> I forgot the pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5


That is all wrong and will not work. Your card is not compatible with the G10 bracket. Your VRM are going to overheat and you have it done incorrectly at that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> VRM heatsinks a must icm 980 Ti or will it operate within specs?


If you do not plan to overclock then it will be fine, but if you plan to oc, get some vrm heatsinks.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> I forgot the pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5
> 
> 
> 
> That is all wrong and will not work. Your card is not compatible with the G10 bracket. Your VRM are going to overheat and you have it done incorrectly at that.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> VRM heatsinks a must icm 980 Ti or will it operate within specs?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you do not plan to overclock then it will be fine, but if you plan to oc, get some vrm heatsinks.
Click to expand...

Nono I won't OC at all!

Sent from my Nexus 5


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

thesebastian,

The OC part wasnt meant for you. This part was.

"That is all wrong and will not work. Your card is not compatible with the G10 bracket. Your VRM are going to overheat and you have it done incorrectly at that."

You have a short PCB card with the VRM on the wrong side. It will not work correctly with the G10 bracket.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> thesebastian,
> 
> The OC part wasnt meant for you. This part was.
> 
> "That is all wrong and will not work. Your card is not compatible with the G10 bracket. Your VRM are going to overheat and you have it done incorrectly at that."
> 
> You have a short PCB card with the VRM on the wrong side. It will not work correctly with the G10 bracket.


I know but I'm just wanting the bracket not the G10 fan.
I wanted to try this. I just need something to raise these two fans (larger screws) to keep them near the VRM. If the VRM temp is not good...I will change the card...to something compatible with G10...










Sent from my Nexus 5


----------



## thesebastian

After a lot of days waiting...I've finally mounted the G10!!!



*Old Info: I still need to raise the VRM's fans because they are far away from heatsinks. But so far the results are good!!!!









http://imgur.com/J4czuU5

Updated Info: I added larger screws to the fans. Got a 5C decrease in the hottest VRM. (from 80~ to 75~).




Also, for the measures, I need to move the radiator to be able to reach the farthest VRMs. with the thermometer..* This is just a fast review to see some numbers......and compared them with the Stock Heatsink.

Consider that I'm using / I had used an IR Thermometer, is not exact, but it works...

The only temp I get from software is the GPU temp (and the IR Thermometer catch almost the same temp from the back of the GPU, at least with the stock heatsink, without the NZXT mini back plate).

*GPU:* Gigabyte 970 ITX

Before:

*Cooling solution:* Stock Heatsink/Cooler

These are my old temps with the Stock heatsink (I used an IR Thermometer for the VRM and the RAM):

*(Custom FAN settings, max 58%):*
Ambient Temp: 28-32C
Max Fan Speed reached: 58% (Using a custom fan curve capped at 58%).
GPU = 86C ( 86C in HW Monitor too).
VRMs = 70 to 100C (Bottom VRM 100~ top VRM 70~ i guess). (I don't have VRM or -VRAM sensor in this VGA).
VRAM: 70C to 85C depending on the module.
Perf Cap reason = Power or VRel, VOp

*(Stock FAN settings):*
Ambient Temp: 28-32C
Max Fan Speed reached: 67% (Nvidia Driver spec: AUTO).
GPU = 79C ( 80C in HW Monitor).
VRMs = 65 to 92C depending on the VRM
VRAM: 60C to 80C depending on the module.
Perf Cap reason = Power or VRel, VOp

Considerations:
- The Thermal Throttle temp was raised from 79C to 88C (92C is the max permitted by the stock bios). Otherwise, I would be stuck at 79C.
- The FAN is capped a 58% in the TEST 1 since more than 58% is very noisy.
- The FAN is AUTO in TEST 2.
- Both TESTS have a raised thermal throttle from 79C (Stock) to 88C.
- Measured after more than 15 minutes running Valley benchmark.

Now:

*Cooling Solution:* AIO: Corsair H90 + Noctua NH-A14 PWM (using L.N.A. at 100% - 1200RPM~). Plus two 40mm small fans. Each one with 1,78 mm H20 SP and 8,2 m³/h Airflow. But they are currently away from the heatsinks. ( I need to improved this).

*Kraken G10 - VRM Fans: away:*

Ambient temp: 28-32C
Fan speed: 100% with L.N.A. (1200RPM).
GPU: Can't be measured anymore, because of the NZXT backplate (47C in HW MONITOR)
VRM: From 50C to 80C (80C was the max measure I could get from the bottom VRMs, It's harder to measure this than it was before, since I have less space to approach the thermometer, but I think I did it just fine).
VRAM: 60C to 67C depending on the module.
Perf Cap reason = Power or VRel, VOp

*Kraken G10 - VRM Fans: raised:*

VRM: From 50C to 75C (75C~ is the max temp I could read). So I lost 5C with the fans there.

*Kraken G10 - Case closed (only GPU temp) after with more than 50 minutes of Heaven bench running*
GPU: 50C.


Considerations:
- As I said many times, I need to move the VRM fans...
- Measured after more than 20 minutes running Heaven benchmark Extreme / (Also tried later with Valley, same results).



P.S.: Please try to don't quote this entire post, I'm probably updating it many times...(If my GPU is still alive,







).

*Thanks to all the users in this topic!
Special thanks to @PinkoTheCommi who helped all the time with this. Also a huge thanks to @Ultisym.*


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> I forgot the pics:
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5


YOU DID IT! Very nicely done! That looks really good!

You are the first person I know of that has successfully done this to an ITX card. It took a lot of patience, extras, and maneuvering, but it looks like you got the job done with some really nice temperature drops all across the board on the most sensitive components! Big congratz! Even with the VRM fans kinda far away, those results are much better than what you were getting before! I do really hope nothing goes wrong, but please, report back if anything does so that we can know this method is not safe. So far, so good though it seems, and VRM temps should only improve if you manage to get the VRM fans closer.

Have you tried any games other than Unigine? Also, please, never, ever, run Furmark or Kombustor.

There shouldn't be an issue leaving that little bit of excess thermal pad. It will probably collect some dust over time, but thats the extent of it. I don't see a problem with the heatsink and capacitor as long as they aren't touching, which they aren't. It looks great.

How is the overall noise level now that you've installed the G10?

Really happy to see that this was a success!


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

How are people finding these for cooling ability, silence and simplicity compared to using a custom loop? I have an NHD15 on my CPU but wouldn't mind a very quiet AIO cooling my next GPU if it's worth it, is anyone having pump noise issues or anything like that? I'm assuming the VRM's definitely need heatsinks or the temps will be too high also?


----------



## sakai4eva

Guys, I'm planning to use the G10 to cool a reference R9-290. Some reseller recommended to use a 240mm radiator block AIO and I am leaning towards the Water 3.0 Extreme. Will this be a massive overkill if I overclock the card (VRAM heatsinks will be used regardless).

I'm planning to use this RAM heatsink btw:

http://www.lelong.com.my/13x13x11mm-alluminium-heatsink-adhesive-film-ic-ram-chip-ioline-I2040964-2007-01-Sale-I.htm


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> How are people finding these for cooling ability, silence and simplicity compared to using a custom loop? I have an NHD15 on my CPU but wouldn't mind a very quiet AIO cooling my next GPU if it's worth it, is anyone having pump noise issues or anything like that? I'm assuming the VRM's definitely need heatsinks or the temps will be too high also?


VRM temperatures are really on a card by card basis. Some cards are perfectly fine without any additional heatsinks, other cards, I would recommend adding heatsinks.

Noise has gone down considerably for the vast majority of people. Really depends on the fans, and speed that you use, but overall, its a big drop in noise. Pump noise is not an issue with most, and if it is, its an easy fix to get the air bubbles to circulate out of the pump.

The simplicity, and versatility is what really sold me on the G10 over a custom loop. Can't forget the cost. I paid a fraction of what I would have for a custom loop and am getting about 80% of the performance. I love having the option to take it from one GPU and put it on another seamlessly, even across manufacturers. To do that with a custom loop, you are spending more than that on the GPU block alone.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakai4eva*
> 
> Guys, I'm planning to use the G10 to cool a reference R9-290. Some reseller recommended to use a 240mm radiator block AIO and I am leaning towards the Water 3.0 Extreme. Will this be a massive overkill if I overclock the card (VRAM heatsinks will be used regardless).
> 
> I'm planning to use this RAM heatsink btw:
> 
> http://www.lelong.com.my/13x13x11mm-alluminium-heatsink-adhesive-film-ic-ram-chip-ioline-I2040964-2007-01-Sale-I.htm


240mm radiators for the G10 is definitely overkill in my opinion. 120mm is plenty, and anything past that you experience diminishing returns. Not to mention, its a lot easier to mount a 120/140mm radiator, and you want it set as rear exhaust, not something easily done with 240mm radiators.

For the R9 290s, you will want to buy a Gelid R9 290 VRM heatsink kit. Its the perfect product for keeping VRMs cool, and it comes all in one package. Hopefully you can find it in our region. VRAM doesn't get hot enough for you to worry about, its the VRMs that need to be cooled properly, and the Gelid Heatsink kit does that exceptionally well.


----------



## sakai4eva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> 240mm radiators for the G10 is definitely overkill in my opinion. 120mm is plenty, and anything past that you experience diminishing returns. Not to mention, its a lot easier to mount a 120/140mm radiator, and you want it set as rear exhaust, not something easily done with 240mm radiators.
> 
> For the R9 290s, you will want to buy a Gelid R9 290 VRM heatsink kit. Its the perfect product for keeping VRMs cool, and it comes all in one package. Hopefully you can find it in our region. VRAM doesn't get hot enough for you to worry about, its the VRMs that need to be cooled properly, and the Gelid Heatsink kit does that exceptionally well.


Thanks. So a Water 3.0 Performer would suffice? Or should I try to go for a better one?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakai4eva*
> 
> Thanks. So a Water 3.0 Performer would suffice? Or should I try to go for a better one?


The Water 3.0 Performer is a very good AIO, and it comes with two fans, which is nice. This is plenty for an R9 290. Just be sure to buy the Gelid R9 290 Heatsink Kit. If you follow that link it is from an eBay seller that ships worldwide in case you cannot find it cheaper locally.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> YOU DID IT! Very nicely done! That looks really good!
> 
> You are the first person I know of that has successfully done this to an ITX card. It took a lot of patience, extras, and maneuvering, but it looks like you got the job done with some really nice temperature drops all across the board on the most sensitive components! Big congratz! Even with the VRM fans kinda far away, those results are much better than what you were getting before! I do really hope nothing goes wrong, but please, report back if anything does so that we can know this method is not safe. So far, so good though it seems, and VRM temps should only improve if you manage to get the VRM fans closer.
> 
> Have you tried any games other than Unigine? Also, please, never, ever, run Furmark or Kombustor.
> 
> There shouldn't be an issue leaving that little bit of excess thermal pad. It will probably collect some dust over time, but thats the extent of it. I don't see a problem with the heatsink and capacitor as long as they aren't touching, which they aren't. It looks great.
> 
> How is the overall noise level now that you've installed the G10?
> 
> Really happy to see that this was a success!


Thanks Pinko, I'm really happy with this!

> *The noise level when idle* is pretty quiet (All the PWM fans at 500-900 RPM. The PUMP & the 40mm fans at constant 12v).
The PUMP was a bit noisy during the first minute out of the box, after that the noise disappeared totally.
I assume that the fans with the highest noise (CPU idle) are the 2 tiny 40mm (rated at 17,9 dB(A) by Noctua. (I can't compare the Noctua measures with other fans, but right know they are all noctuas that's why I'm comparing using these numbers).

> *The noise level when load* (100% PWM speed, 1200RPM, when the CPU reachs 42C at the moment. I will try SpeedFan controlling fans with the GPU temp, in a future ) the fan with the highest noise is the NH-A14 PWM (140mm) with 19,2 dB(A). But I think the loudest, is the 140mm attached to the radiator.
Still. This is pretty quiet for gaming. I'm 100% happy. Yesterday my house was boiling and the PC was really quiet with GTA V or those Valley/Heaven benchmarks).

> The start-up noise is awesome. I used to hear the GPU FAN slowly decreasing from 100% to 33% when turning on the PC. Not anymore.

*Temps*: Well, the only "true" temp is the GPU core temp. But I think the VRMs are still at 75-80C maximum. (Let's put 10C of error margin to the farthest VRM) If it is at 85-90C, it is still fine (compared to the stock heatsink). The VRAMS are perfectly fine (they are easily measured, since there is a lot of space to approach the IR GUN).
All the measures were made with the case open (before and after the G10).

Other things:

- Honestly. I don't really know if these 2 fans are helping the VRM from that distance. But well..temps are fine.

- When I finished mounting the G10, etc. The GPU didn't work (and I tough i messed it). But at the end, it was not properly mounted in the PCI-E. I had this issue before with this rig and without the G10. I always have problems fitting the bottom of the VGA bracket" between the case and the motherboard. etc.

- I think I will put the H90's 140mm stock fan, exhausting at the TOP/REAR fan socket. I have 2 intakes, 1 exhaust with a radiator, and the PSU exhaust fan at the bottom.

( The VGA doesn't have some kind of "RPM" check, right? Because the GPU 3-pin fan header is unused).

- And, of course, If something goes wrong I'll report! I still consider this, as a risky task for the VGA.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Thanks Pinko, I'm really happy with this!
> 
> > *The noise level when idle* is pretty quiet (All the PWM fans at 500-900 RPM. The PUMP & the 40mm fans at constant 12v).
> The PUMP was a bit noisy during the first minute out of the box, after that the noise disappeared totally.
> I assume that the fans with the highest noise (CPU idle) are the 2 tiny 40mm (rated at 17,9 dB(A) by Noctua. (I can't compare the Noctua measures with other fans, but right know the are all noctuas that's why I'm comparing using these numbers).
> 
> > *The noise level when load* (100% PWM speed when the CPU reachs 42C at the moment. I will try SpeedFan controlling fans with the GPU temp, in a future ) the fan with the highest noise is the NH-A14 PWM (140mm) with 19,2 dB(A). But I think the loudest, is the 140mm attached to the radiator.
> Still. This is pretty quiet for gaming. I'm 100% happy. Yesterday my house was boiling and the PC was really quiet with GTA V or those Valley/Heaven benchmarks).
> 
> > The start-up noise is awesome. I used to hear the GPU FAN slowly decreasing from 100% to 33% when turning on the PC. Not anymore.
> 
> *Temps*: Well, the only "true" temp is the GPU core temp. But I think the VRMs are still at 75-80C maximum. (Let's put 10C of error margin to the farthest VRM) If it is at 85-90C, it is still fine (compared to the stock heatsink). The VRAMS are perfectly fine (they are easily measured, since there is a lot of space to approach the IR GUN).
> 
> Other things:
> 
> - Honestly. I don't really know if these 2 fans are helping the VRM from that distance. But well..temps are fine.
> 
> - When I finished mounting the G10, etc. The GPU didn't work (and I tough i messed it). But at the end, it was not properly mounted in the PCI-E. I had this issue before with this rig and without the G10. I always have problems fitting the bottom of the VGA bracket" between the case and the motherboard. etc.
> 
> - And, of course, If something goes wrong I'll report! I still consider this, as a risky task for the VGA.


Very nice, good to hear about the noise levels being much lower!

Those VRM temps are still better than what you were getting with the stock heatsink, so you have got to be happy, and there is still room for improvement if you can get the small fans mounted closer to the VRMs. All in all, a nicely executed G10 mod!


----------



## Tim Drake

So does anybody know of anybody / run an NZXT G10 on a MSI GTX 970 and if so, how did you set it up for VRM cooling?


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very nice, good to hear about the noise levels being much lower!
> 
> Those VRM temps are still better than what you were getting with the stock heatsink, so you have got to be happy, and there is still room for improvement if you can get the small fans mounted closer to the VRMs. All in all, a nicely executed G10 mod!


Thanks a lot Pinko, I'll try to find larger screws. (These screws are not only short, but wide)

Do you recommend (if there is) a program/bench to test that the GPU is all good? (without artifacts, etc). I used to use, one called "OCCT" to test with my previous 560 ti, but I will skip it with the new gpu since you said to skip Kombustor and Furmark, Btw, I never tried this without the G10...so I won't be able to compare.


----------



## jezzer

Anyone knows what the max height for the vrm heatsinks can be? I must choose between copper high or low profile sinks and the high ones are 145mm


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> So does anybody know of anybody / run an NZXT G10 on a MSI GTX 970 and if so, how did you set it up for VRM cooling?


With the VRMs on the output side of the card, you need to setup a fan to cool them as the fan on the G10 does not. You can buy a spot cooler or fab up a mount for a fan in that location. I fabbed a fan mount for each of the SLI 970s I ran and it worked fine. Is there a VRM heatsink on the GPU you have? If not you will need to put a heat sink on the vrms as well.


----------



## Bigm

Thinking about getting a G10 for my Zotac Amp 970 Extreme. Anyone know if I will need heatsinks or if it's even compatible?

This is the PCB from what I can gather.


----------



## Fidget-STC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Anyone knows what the max height for the vrm heatsinks can be? I must choose between copper high or low profile sinks and the high ones are 145mm


145mm... like 6 inches? What kind of heatsinks are they? Certainly the G10 doesn't have room for that...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigm*
> 
> Thinking about getting a G10 for my Zotac Amp 970 Extreme. Anyone know if I will need heatsinks or if it's even compatible?
> 
> This is the PCB from what I can gather.


The 970 has the VRMs on the left side/output side of the processor. That isnt a 970.


----------



## Bigm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The 970 has the VRMs on the left side/output side of the processor. That isnt a 970.


This is where I got the image from.

Coolingconfigurator.com shows the same as the PCB for my card.



For reference, this is the model number: ZT-90103-10P


----------



## jezzer

Just ordered these parts, will try to fit it all on my 980 Ti this weekend if i dont change my mind


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigm*
> 
> This is where I got the image from.
> 
> Coolingconfigurator.com shows the same as the PCB for my card.
> 
> 
> 
> For reference, this is the model number: ZT-90103-10P


Its not "impossible" but if it is a 970, it is the first I have seen with the Vrms on the back side of the card.

Here are some PCB photos for various 970s

Crap what a long link....fixed..... Obviously not all of those are 970s, i saw a couple 980s in the brief look I took. Looks like the Galax may have them on the rear too. Learn something every day.









In other news....The g10 should work great for your GPU but you will need to add a heatsink to the VRMs. I do like the design better with them at the rear.


----------



## Fidget-STC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigm*
> 
> This is where I got the image from.


One thing to bear in mind from the linked tear-down is this:
Quote:


> ...with a separate passive XL heatsink for the VRM.


I noticed it looking at the underside of the cooler, there is nothing for the VRMs there, so there is a seperate VRM heatsink not pictured. With any luck you can leave it on under the VRM fan and it should provide excellent cooling!


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very nice, good to hear about the noise levels being much lower!
> 
> Those VRM temps are still better than what you were getting with the stock heatsink, so you have got to be happy, and there is still room for improvement if you can get the small fans mounted closer to the VRMs. All in all, a nicely executed G10 mod!


I just bought larger screws!

The have dropped 5C. (From 80C max to 75C max).

Post updated.

I bought 3.5cm screws but I should have bought the 4cm ones. Anyway..I will just keep the current ones.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> I just bought larger screws!
> 
> The have dropped 5C. (From 80C max to 75C max).
> 
> Post updated.
> 
> I bought 3.5cm screws but I should have bought the 4cm ones. Anyway..I will just keep the current ones.


So there's nothing securing the 40mm fans to the bottom? I would have use some foamy double sided tape or something to keep the secure and minimize vibration noise.

Good to see you got it all set up and working though.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Thanks a lot Pinko, I'll try to find larger screws. (These screws are not only short, but wide)
> 
> Do you recommend (if there is) a program/bench to test that the GPU is all good? (without artifacts, etc). I used to use, one called "OCCT" to test with my previous 560 ti, but I will skip it with the new gpu since you said to skip Kombustor and Furmark, Btw, I never tried this without the G10...so I won't be able to compare.


Just Unigine Heaven/Valley and graphically intense games like Crysis3, Witcher3, GTAV, etc..


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Anyone knows what the max height for the vrm heatsinks can be? I must choose between copper high or low profile sinks and the high ones are 145mm


If I recall correctly, the height differential between the PCB and the G10 bracket is 14mm. You will want to find heatsinks that are shorter than 14mm in height, and I would also recommend using aluminum heatsinks because copper heatsinks have a tendency to fall off because of their weight.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigm*
> 
> Thinking about getting a G10 for my Zotac Amp 970 Extreme. Anyone know if I will need heatsinks or if it's even compatible?
> 
> This is the PCB from what I can gather.


This is an interesting card.

The G10 bracket will fit, and the VRMs are on the right side of the GPU die, but there is something else about this particular card that concerns me.

The VRMs are on the right side, which is rare for a 970, but they also appear to be stretching out and up past where the 92mm fan is. It looks to me, and I could be wrong, but it looks like the fan would only be cooling a portion of the VRMs. If possible, I would contact Zotac directly and ask about their PCB. Ask them to point out the VRMs. I don't know if you will be able to get away with only cooling a portion of the VRMs, even if it is the majority of them, it still looks like some would be without airflow entirely. That, and I would recommend adding some thermal pads and heatsinks(this is cheap to do).


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Jezzer

Very nice!

One thing you will also need to buy is some double sided, electrically non-conductive thermal pads. You do not want to place the copper heatsinks with their shoddy thermal tape directly onto the circuitry of your PCB. This is why you need the electrically non-conductive thermal pads. You will have to clean the thermal tape off of the heatsinks before applying them to the thermal pads. Also keep in mind that copper is fairly heavy, so hopefully the heatsinks don't fall off. I think Ultysim recommended using a hair drying to heat up the thermal pads to help with the adhesion.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> So does anybody know of anybody / run an NZXT G10 on a MSI GTX 970 and if so, how did you set it up for VRM cooling?


Hey Tim, this is Faceman from LTT.

I think your card already has a really nice built in heatsink over the VRMs, they are just on the opposite side of the card than what the G10 was designed for. Its a fairly easy fix. You can buy an Antec Spot Cool to get good airflow over the VRMs. You can also buy a PCI Fan Bracket which allows you to buy and mount an 80mm fan directly underneath the VRMs. Lastly, you can find a way to ghetto rig a fan to be blowing over the VRMs.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> So there's nothing securing the 40mm fans to the bottom? I would have use some foamy double sided tape or something to keep the secure and minimize vibration noise.
> 
> Good to see you got it all set up and working though.


Thanks!

Yes that would be nice, I'll do something like that in a future. However, they have almost no room to move, and the 4 screws have a lot of weight compared to the fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Just Unigine Heaven/Valley and graphically intense games like Crysis3, Witcher3, GTAV, etc..


Ok! I'm playing AC Unity with the latest patch (with 5/8 in GeForce Experience, because the MSAA was giving me some v-sync stuterring) and it's working pretty good, Also tried GTA V, etc.
The PC is so silent with the GPU at 99%. During the day..(with more outdoor noise) is completely inaudible when gaming.

This G10 is is incredible.

One thing I forgot to say:
- I didn't use the included "Foam Blocks".
- The G10 screws can still be inserted, I mean "by hand", I can press more if needed without much effort. Is that normal? The bracket seems already pretty fixed. And I think they are just fine, because some kind of rubber started exiting from the screws.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Yes that would be nice, I'll do something like that in a future. However, they have almost no room to move, and the 4 screws have a lot of weight compared to the fans.
> Ok! I'm playing AC Unity with the latest patch (with 5/8 in GeForce Experience, because the MSAA was giving me some v-sync stuterring) and it's working pretty good, Also tried GTA V, etc.
> The PC is so silent with the GPU at 99%. During the day..(with more outdoor noise) is completely inaudible when gaming.
> 
> This G10 is is incredible.
> 
> One thing I forgot to say:
> - I didn't use the included "Foam Blocks".
> - The G10 screws can still be inserted, I mean "by hand", I can press more if needed without much effort. Is that normal? The bracket seems already pretty fixed. And I think they are just fine, because some kind of rubber started exiting from the screws.


Thats awesome about the noise. Them Noctuas!

Its no problem if you didn't use the foam blocks.

Yea, thats pretty normal. On mine, the rubber washers are kinda stretching out also. Your temperatures are excellent, so I wouldn't play around with it anymore.

You might even be able to eek out a little bit more performance without increasing temperatures. A lot of 970s are able to overclock a bit without adding any voltage. I wouldn't try adding any voltage though. While your VRM temps are definitely a lot better with the G10 than with the stock cooler, you are still in the high range, and I personally don't think its worth pushing the limits unless you absolutely need that extra performance. I just urge you to be careful. You are the first one who has done this to an ITX card, and your results are already so good that I would be happy with what you have accomplished already.


----------



## jezzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Jezzer
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> One thing you will also need to buy is some double sided, electrically non-conductive thermal pads. You do not want to place the copper heatsinks with their shoddy thermal tape directly onto the circuitry of your PCB. This is why you need the electrically non-conductive thermal pads. You will have to clean the thermal tape off of the heatsinks before applying them to the thermal pads. Also keep in mind that copper is fairly heavy, so hopefully the heatsinks don't fall off. I think Ultysim recommended using a hair drying to heat up the thermal pads to help with the adhesion.


Yeah i did order some thermal adhesive tape from Akasa too, it supposed to have strong bonding so hope it will keep the copper in place. I went with 90mm heatsinks


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Thats awesome about the noise. Them Noctuas!
> 
> Its no problem if you didn't use the foam blocks.
> 
> Yea, thats pretty normal. On mine, the rubber washers are kinda stretching out also. Your temperatures are excellent, so I wouldn't play around with it anymore.
> 
> You might even be able to eek out a little bit more performance without increasing temperatures. A lot of 970s are able to overclock a bit without adding any voltage. I wouldn't try adding any voltage though. While your VRM temps are definitely a lot better with the G10 than with the stock cooler, you are still in the high range, and I personally don't think its worth pushing the limits unless you absolutely need that extra performance. I just urge you to be careful. You are the first one who has done this to an ITX card, and your results are already so good that I would be happy with what you have accomplished already.


Your tempting me







. But I think I will leave it like as is.
Right now, my Perf Cap is PWR when benchmarking (99% gpu load). And sometimes VRel, VOps when playing oscillating between 99% and a lower gpu load (GTA 5).

I think that, to increase the performance, i need to increase the PWR from 100% to 112% (I can't remember the max, I think 112 or 115 is the max permitted by the stock bios). And I assume that will increase the VRM temps.

One important thing is that my Mini 970 has only 8 pins from the PSU (Only one 6+2 connector).

The thing that I really want to try (since I have a lot of space in the back) is adding a passive heatsink with thermal pad at the back of the VRM, to dissipate more the heat. Specially in the bottom part (behind the bottom VRM) which is the hottest. (Yes, I already told you this before).


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Yeah i did order some thermal adhesive tape from Akasa too, it supposed to have strong bonding so hope it will keep the copper in place. I went with 90mm heatsinks


You need thermal pads, not tape. Sometimes the tape will turn to a liquid when it gets too hot, and that is bad for your GPU, meaning it will die. Thermal pads don't have this problem. Not to mention, it has to be electrically non-conductive.

You need to buy double sided, electrically non-conductive thermal pads approximately 1mm-1.5mm thick.

90mm is too tall for heatsinks. You only have about 14mm of space between the PCB of your card and the G10 bracket. You need to buy much smaller heatsinks, and I recommend aluminum so that the copper ones don't fall off.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Your tempting me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But I think I will leave it like as is.
> Right now, my Perf Cap is PWR when benchmarking (99% gpu load). And sometimes VRel, VOps when playing oscillating between 99% and a lower gpu load (GTA 5).
> 
> I think that, to increase the performance, i need to increase the PWR from 100% to 112% (I can't remember the max, I think 112 or 115 is the max permitted by the stock bios). And I assume that will increase the VRM temps.
> 
> One important thing is that my Mini 970 has only 8 pins from the PSU (Only one 6+2 connector).
> 
> The thing that I really want to try (since I have a lot of space in the back) is adding a passive heatsink with thermal pad at the back of the VRM, to dissipate more the heat. Specially in the bottom part (behind the bottom VRM) which is the hottest. (Yes, I already told you this before).


Sure, you could absolutely try it. Just use the same method as on the other side. I don't know how much it will help without airflow over it, but I am curious to see how much passive cooling just a thermal pad and heatsink provides. A before and after would be great if you don't mind!


----------



## jezzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You need thermal pads, not tape. Sometimes the tape will turn to a liquid when it gets too hot, and that is bad for your GPU, meaning it will die. Thermal pads don't have this problem. Not to mention, it has to be electrically non-conductive.
> 
> You need to buy double sided, electrically non-conductive thermal pads approximately 1mm-1.5mm thick.
> 
> 90mm is too tall for heatsinks. You only have about 14mm of space between the PCB of your card and the G10 bracket. You need to buy much smaller heatsinks, and I recommend aluminum so that the copper ones don't fall off.


lol, i ment 9mm high heatsinks









http://www.akasa.com.tw/search.php?seed=AK-TT12-80
Thats the tape i ordered

I will get some pads but the tape has some good reviews on amazone uk


----------



## jezzer

My case is a box and i can place it upside down with no difference except that the heatsinks cant fall off. Is it safe then to use the tape and even the standard tape. It are enzotech heatsinks.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> My case is a box and i can place it upside down with no difference except that the heatsinks cant fall off. Is it safe then to use the tape and even the standard tape. It are enzotech heatsinks.


Well the Enzotech ones, aren't copper heatsinks? (also, with a 3M tape which is better than the Akasa but not needed).
As far as I know. Copper > Aluminium (transferring heat).
But the aluminium is lighter than copper.
So If you are going to have the heatsinks in the air. It's better to choose Aluminium.

I bought some tiny aluminium heatsinks and I used a non-conductive thermal PAD (not thermal tape) that seems to have a good adhesive for the heatsinks.

I can't recommend it because I've installed the G10 just a week ago. (Need to wait a few months to better test the adhesive).

Alphacool double-sided thermal adhesive pad 120x20x0,5mm

And this is the desc that took my money:
Quote:


> With this double-sided thermal adhesive pad from Alphacool it is possible to mount a heatsink at any desired spot without having to worry about mounts, hole spacing or other constructive details.
> This is especially interesting for systems such as Alphacool's MCX system to allow mounting of heatsinks for graphics cards or Mainboards. But long-term testing shows that these pads are capable of much more than just holding small heatsinks! A holding power of at least 16N/25mm means an adhesive force greater than with some duct tapes! This allows mounting even of heavy coolers and the capability to deal with shocks from transport or twisting/ permanent pressure.
> 
> *plus this:* electrically non-conductive


----------



## rfarmer

Well thought I would join the club since I just installed my G10. My first problem was I have a blue/black build but I couldn't find the blue G10. Turns out not only did the NZXT site have them in stock but they were on sale for $14.99 with $5.00 shipping.









Next problem was it appeared to be too thick for my case, from pics I have seen posted here it is a bit over 2" from graphics card to bottom of bracket, I only had 1 3/4", just bent the bracket out a bit at the bottom and it fit fine. I was worried about the included fan clearing too so I went ahead and got a 92mm X 15mm PWM fan. I wanted a PWM fan anyway since I got one of the Gelid Solutions VGA 4 pin to PWM fan adapter cable.

Paired it with a Corsair H50 AIO, I already have a H105 and got a good deal on the H50.

So far I am very impressed, idle temps dropped from 45C to 27C, load from 80C to 47C.

The gpu used is a MSI GTX 970 OC.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> lol, i ment 9mm high heatsinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.akasa.com.tw/search.php?seed=AK-TT12-80
> Thats the tape i ordered
> 
> I will get some pads but the tape has some good reviews on amazone uk


DO NOT USE THAT TAPE.

It is not meant for GPU usage. You have to buy thermal pads. I know these tapes say they are designed for extremely high heat, but I remember before I did the G10 mod I was reading this thread and I recall someone using a thermal tape and it melted because of the heat, and it bricked his card. Also, the tape doesn't state whether it is electrically non-conductive or not. DO NOT USE THIS TAPE.

Double Sided, Electrically non-conductive thermal pads is what you need. 1mm-1.5mm thickness.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Well thought I would join the club since I just installed my G10. My first problem was I have a blue/black build but I couldn't find the blue G10. Turns out not only did the NZXT site have them in stock but they were on sale for $14.99 with $5.00 shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem was it appeared to be too thick for my case, from pics I have seen posted here it is a bit over 2" from graphics card to bottom of bracket, I only had 1 3/4", just bent the bracket out a bit at the bottom and it fit fine. I was worried about the included fan clearing too so I went ahead and got a 92mm X 15mm PWM fan. I wanted a PWM fan anyway since I got one of the Gelid Solutions VGA 4 pin to PWM fan adapter cable.
> 
> Paired it with a Corsair H50 AIO, I already have a H105 and got a good deal on the H50.
> 
> So far I am very impressed, idle temps dropped from 45C to 27C, load from 80C to 47C.
> 
> The gpu used is a MSI GTX 970 OC.


Very nice looking build! I am also a blue/black guy myself. Love the look!

Most 970s have the VRMs on the opposite side of the PCB from where the G10 has the fan, and in your pictures it doesn't look like you added any airflow over the left side of the GPU die. I highly recommend adding some kind of tiny fan to get airflow over the VRMs. Perhaps an Antec Spot Cool(it has a blue LED) or you can do what thesebastian did and buy some tiny 40mm fans and mount them so they are blowing over the VRMs. While your core temps are fantastic, you need to be very aware of the VRM temps, which are not able to be seen in software monitoring programs on most Nvidia cards.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very nice looking build! I am also a blue/black guy myself. Love the look!
> 
> Most 970s have the VRMs on the opposite side of the PCB from where the G10 has the fan, and in your pictures it doesn't look like you added any airflow over the left side of the GPU die. I highly recommend adding some kind of tiny fan to get airflow over the VRMs. Perhaps an Antec Spot Cool(it has a blue LED) or you can do what thesebastian did and buy some tiny 40mm fans and mount them so they are blowing over the VRMs. While your core temps are fantastic, you need to be very aware of the VRM temps, which are not able to be seen in software monitoring programs on most Nvidia cards.


Yeah the VRMs are on the left side of the gpu, I was planning on getting one of the Spot Cool fans. It has a stock heatsink but I know I need cooling there.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah the VRMs are on the left side of the gpu, I was planning on getting one of the Spot Cool fans. It has a stock heatsink but I know I need cooling there.


Yea, an Antec Spot Cool is a good choice, and with the blue LEDs it will fit into your build nicely. You're right that your GPU does have a nice built-in heatsink, but getting some airflow over that heatsink should be a priority.


----------



## thesebastian

Congratulations @rfarmer

We both have a 970 with Kraken G10 on a Phantek ITX case (Also, installed in the same week).

I highly recommend you to buy an "IR Thermometer". They costs 10 bucks and give a good estimation about the PCB / VRM / VRAMS temps.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Congratulations @rfarmer
> 
> We both have a 970 with Kraken G10 on a Phantek ITX case (Also, installed in the same week).
> 
> I highly recommend you to buy an "IR Thermometer". They costs 10 bucks and give a good estimation about the PCB / VRM / VRAMS temps.


Yeah I need to look into an IR thermometer, I really wish nVidia cards had sensors for that.


----------



## jezzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> DO NOT USE THAT TAPE.
> 
> It is not meant for GPU usage. You have to buy thermal pads. I know these tapes say they are designed for extremely high heat, but I remember before I did the G10 mod I was reading this thread and I recall someone using a thermal tape and it melted because of the heat, and it bricked his card. Also, the tape doesn't state whether it is electrically non-conductive or not. DO NOT USE THIS TAPE.
> 
> Double Sided, Electrically non-conductive thermal pads is what you need. 1mm-1.5mm thickness.


Hmmm okay, thinking about giving up and sending all stuff back.

The only pads i can find are or 0.5mm and 2 euros or 1.5 mm and 30-100 euros lol

http://www.aquatuning.nl/koelpasta/warmtegeleidende-pad/11851/alphacool-double-sided-adhesive-pad-120x20x0-5mm?c=5019

The 0.5mm ones are strong adhesive and the 1.5mm light adhesive.

Probably gonna send 980 ti back too because stock cooler is utter crap and i might aswell get one with an aftermarket cooler then.

Bummer


----------



## sakete

Hi guys,

Am thinking about modding my brand new EVGA 980 Ti SC+ ACX+ to the G10 bracket with Kraken X31. With the ACX cooler it gets too hot for my liking and mostly the fan generates too much noise.

Would you guys say that getting VRM heatsinks is crucial?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Am thinking about modding my brand new EVGA 980 Ti SC+ ACX+ to the G10 bracket with Kraken X31. With the ACX cooler it gets too hot for my liking and mostly the fan generates too much noise.
> 
> Would you guys say that getting VRM heatsinks is crucial?


Absolutely. Are you sure the one your getting does not have one? Most higher end cards do though some are built into factory cooler.

Edit: from the pics I found that card does not come with a PCB mounted VRM heatsink. Since you do not appear to have purchased yet, Honestly, if it were me, I would spend a little more and pick a card that 1: Has a PCB mounted VRM heatsink and 2: Has a backplate.


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Absolutely. Are you sure the one your getting does not have one? Most higher end cards do though some are built into factory cooler.


Guess I'll find out when I open it up tonight. Am picking up the G10 + X31 today at Micro Center, but I don't think they sell VRM heatsinks, so will have to order those online. Everything at newegg appears to be out of stock.

Any suggestions where I can get heatsinks?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Any suggestions where I can get heatsinks?


Oh so you have already purchased it. Nevermind above edit LOL. No big deal. PM pinko on where to get the vrm sinks you want. I could search and find them but he has all that stuff memorized


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Hmmm okay, thinking about giving up and sending all stuff back.
> 
> The only pads i can find are or 0.5mm and 2 euros or 1.5 mm and 30-100 euros lol
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.nl/koelpasta/warmtegeleidende-pad/11851/alphacool-double-sided-adhesive-pad-120x20x0-5mm?c=5019
> 
> The 0.5mm ones are strong adhesive and the 1.5mm light adhesive.
> 
> Probably gonna send 980 ti back too because stock cooler is utter crap and i might aswell get one with an aftermarket cooler then.
> 
> Bummer


If you are doing the G10 mod, then there is no reason to send back the reference cooler and go for a non-reference cooler. You will be taking off the cooler of both anyways. The non-reference might come with a built in heatsink, but it depends which one you get, and we haven't seen enough PCBs of these non-reference 980Tis yet.

You will be fine using the .5mm thick thermal pads. The ones you linked are very good, so I would go with those, paired with some aluminum heatsinks. You could also buy a stronger 92mm fan to help cool the VRMs.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Guess I'll find out when I open it up tonight. Am picking up the G10 + X31 today at Micro Center, but I don't think they sell VRM heatsinks, so will have to order those online. Everything at newegg appears to be out of stock.
> 
> Any suggestions where I can get heatsinks?


I saw your message but am going to reply here so that in case anyone else having this question in the future can easily find it by searching through this thread.

Like Ultisym said, trying to find a non-reference card with a built in heatsink is always going to be a smart option if you are planning on doing the G10 mod. Luckily, EVGA is one of the best at this, and with models past that use the ACX design, they do have built in heatsinks/mid-plates over the VRMS. Now, I haven't been able to find a picture of the PCB of this card, so before you buy anything, could you please take off the cooler and take a picture of the PCB please?

In your message you were concerned about VRAM. VRAM isn't an issue, its the VRMs that are what you need to be concerned with. Hopefully this EVGA 980Ti SC has a built in mid-plate or heatsinks over the VRMs. If not, then thermal pads and heatsinks will be necessary. If it does have a built in heatsink/midplate then heatsinks aren't necessary. If it has the midplate heatsink design that most EVGA cards do, then you could add some heatsinks directly to this midplate, which is what I did with my EVGA GTX 780.

Another thing to be aware of, and this is a big one with the EVGA cards, is that if they design the midplate like they have in the past, then you will need a copper shim in order to get proper contact between the GPU die and the AIO.



Above is a picture of the EVGA 780 SC. They use this same/very similar design on other models of 780s and 980s. Highlighted in green are the 4 prongs that extend outwards towards the GPU Die. Those prongs get in the way of a proper mount, which is why a copper shim is required. You will notice that the prongs are attached to one large mid-plate, which is a nice heatsink that covers all of the important circuitry, and adds rigidity to the card. You will want to keep this mid plate intact. Adding more heatsinks is not necessary if your card does indeed look like this, but it doesn't hurt to add some because it is such an easy thing to do, and cheap. Because you wouldn't be attaching heatsinks directly to the PCB, but rather this mid plate, you can use almost any aluminum heatsinks that are within the allowed height range 10mm or less to be safe. You will also be able to use their pre-applied thermal tape and apply them directly to this mid plate over where the VRMs are located.

So, from here, when you get your 980Ti, try it in your chassis first to see if the noise and temps are really that unbearable. If they are, then take off the ACX Cooler, snap a picture of the card with the ACX cooler removed, upload it here, and we can go from there!


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I saw your message but am going to reply here so that in case anyone else having this question in the future can easily find it by searching through this thread.
> 
> Like Ultisym said, trying to find a non-reference card with a built in heatsink is always going to be a smart option if you are planning on doing the G10 mod. Luckily, EVGA is one of the best at this, and with models past that use the ACX design, they do have built in heatsinks/mid-plates over the VRMS. Now, I haven't been able to find a picture of the PCB of this card, so before you buy anything, could you please take off the cooler and take a picture of the PCB please?
> 
> In your message you were concerned about VRAM. VRAM isn't an issue, its the VRMs that are what you need to be concerned with. Hopefully this EVGA 980Ti SC has a built in mid-plate or heatsinks over the VRMs. If not, then thermal pads and heatsinks will be necessary. If it does have a built in heatsink/midplate then heatsinks aren't necessary. If it has the midplate heatsink design that most EVGA cards do, then you could add some heatsinks directly to this midplate, which is what I did with my EVGA GTX 780.
> 
> Another thing to be aware of, and this is a big one with the EVGA cards, is that if they design the midplate like they have in the past, then you will need a copper shim in order to get proper contact between the GPU die and the AIO.
> 
> 
> 
> Above is a picture of the EVGA 780 SC. They use this same/very similar design on other models of 780s and 980s. Highlighted in green are the 4 prongs that extend outwards towards the GPU Die. Those prongs get in the way of a proper mount, which is why a copper shim is required. You will notice that the prongs are attached to one large mid-plate, which is a nice heatsink that covers all of the important circuitry, and adds rigidity to the card. You will want to keep this mid plate intact. Adding more heatsinks is not necessary if your card does indeed look like this, but it doesn't hurt to add some because it is such an easy thing to do, and cheap. Because you wouldn't be attaching heatsinks directly to the PCB, but rather this mid plate, you can use almost any aluminum heatsinks that are within the allowed height range 10mm or less to be safe. You will also be able to use their pre-applied thermal tape and apply them directly to this mid plate over where the VRMs are located.
> 
> So, from here, when you get your 980Ti, try it in your chassis first to see if the noise and temps are really that unbearable. If they are, then take off the ACX Cooler, snap a picture of the card with the ACX cooler removed, upload it here, and we can go from there!


Awesome! Thanks! I already have my 980 Ti and it just gets too loud and hot. Played around with fan curve settings and it just reaches 80C+ too easily. Makes my room pretty hot very quickly. Will disassemble the 980Ti when I get home after work today and will post some pics here. Meanwhile, I'll also pick up the G10 + X31 and will get some aluminum heatsinks as well + thermal pads instead of thermal adhesive.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Awesome! Thanks! I already have my 980 Ti and it just gets too loud and hot. Played around with fan curve settings and it just reaches 80C+ too easily. Makes my room pretty hot very quickly. Will disassemble the 980Ti when I get home after work today and will post some pics here. Meanwhile, I'll also pick up the G10 + X31 and will get some aluminum heatsinks as well + thermal pads instead of thermal adhesive.


No need to go that far ahead with the heatsinks and thermal pads because we don't know if they are necessary yet.

Before you buy even the G10 and X31, you need to find out if a copper shim is required. We won't know this until we can get a look "under the hood."

So hold off on making any purchases until we can see your card.


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> No need to go that far ahead with the heatsinks and thermal pads because we don't know if they are necessary yet.
> 
> Before you buy even the G10 and X31, you need to find out if a copper shim is required. We won't know this until we can get a look "under the hood."
> 
> So hold off on making any purchases until we can see your card.


Any idea on what size copper shim would be needed? Should it be the same size as the die size of the GPU chip? I plan on picking up the G10+X31 either way today on my way home, can always return them if it doesn't work out.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Any idea on what size copper shim would be needed? Should it be the same size as the die size of the GPU chip? I plan on picking up the G10+X31 either way today on my way home, can always return them if it doesn't work out.


20mm x 20mm x 1mm

You will also need your own thermal paste to apply to both sides of the shim. I highly recommend Gelid GC Extreme, although that is a fairly expensive brand. There are so many to choose from.


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> 20mm x 20mm x 1mm
> 
> You will also need your own thermal paste to apply to both sides of the shim. I highly recommend Gelid GC Extreme, although that is a fairly expensive brand. There are so many to choose from.


I already have Arctic Silver 5, so I'll just use that. Should be good enough.


----------



## jdstock76

I'm sucking all this info from you guys as I have ordered the X31 and G10 from Amazon. Should be here Monday. Much more involved than I thought. Thx! +rep


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I'm sucking all this info from you guys as I have ordered the X31 and G10 from Amazon. Should be here Monday. Much more involved than I thought. Thx! +rep


Very nice!

What card are you planning on putting it on?


----------



## sakete

Any tips for US based stores where all of these extra parts can be orderd, such as copper shims and VRM/VRAM heatsinks? I see performance-pcs.com, but they only have 20x20x0.8mm shims, not 20x20x1mm shims. Through Amazon it'll have to be shipped all the way from China, which can take a while.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Any tips for US based stores where all of these extra parts can be orderd, such as copper shims and VRM/VRAM heatsinks? I see performance-pcs.com, but they only have 20x20x0.8mm shims, not 20x20x1mm shims. Through Amazon it'll have to be shipped all the way from China, which can take a while.


Unfortunately Frozencpu is gone so most things of this nature I have been getting from performance-pcs.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Any tips for US based stores where all of these extra parts can be orderd, such as copper shims and VRM/VRAM heatsinks? I see performance-pcs.com, but they only have 20x20x0.8mm shims, not 20x20x1mm shims. Through Amazon it'll have to be shipped all the way from China, which can take a while.


Unfortunately, most stuff is going to come from China. Even from Amazon or Ebay.
http://www.amazon.com/20x20x-Copper-Thermal-LENOVO-COMPAQ/dp/B00H7CHH8W/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1429060589&sr=1-8&keywords=copper+shim


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> What card are you planning on putting it on?


I have the EVGA 980ti SC edition. Pretty sweet card. A little loud but nothing I can't handle. Mostly I just want to see how far I can go and how cool it will stay.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I have the EVGA 980ti SC edition. Pretty sweet card. A little loud but nothing I can't handle. Mostly I just want to see how far I can go and how cool it will stay.


Could you do us a favor and remove the ACX cooler to take a picture of the PCB please? This card might require a copper shim, which you will have to order from China and could take some time to arrive. The sooner you post a picture of the card with Cooler removed, the sooner we can let you know if a shim is necessary.


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Could you do us a favor and remove the ACX cooler to take a picture of the PCB please? This card might require a copper shim, which you will have to order from China and could take some time to arrive. The sooner you post a picture of the card with Cooler removed, the sooner we can let you know if a shim is necessary.


And otherwise I'll be posting pictures tonight (US time).


----------



## jezzer

Do the evga reference cards need a copper shim??


----------



## sakete

Would something like this also work:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-thermal-padding-1-0mm-thick.html

Edit: And a follow-up question, would sticking two 20x20x0.5mm copper shims together be a bad idea (with thermal paste in between)? Performance PCs sells the 0.5mm thick ones.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Could you do us a favor and remove the ACX cooler to take a picture of the PCB please? This card might require a copper shim, which you will have to order from China and could take some time to arrive. The sooner you post a picture of the card with Cooler removed, the sooner we can let you know if a shim is necessary.


I'm leaving town this weekend so nothing will be done until Monday at the soonest. And I have the reference cooler not the ACX cooler. I'm in no rush as the bracket and cooler won't be here till next week.

FYI - I can make the cooper shim so no waiting.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Hmmm okay, thinking about giving up and sending all stuff back.
> 
> The only pads i can find are or 0.5mm and 2 euros or 1.5 mm and 30-100 euros lol
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.nl/koelpasta/warmtegeleidende-pad/11851/alphacool-double-sided-adhesive-pad-120x20x0-5mm?c=5019
> 
> The 0.5mm ones are strong adhesive and the 1.5mm light adhesive.
> 
> Probably gonna send 980 ti back too because stock cooler is utter crap and i might aswell get one with an aftermarket cooler then.
> 
> Bummer


http://www.overclock.net/t/1541293/vrm-locations-gtx-970#post_23565209

I used this method and have had similarly good results (even reusing the heatsinks from previous cards/motherboard). I've used 3 different methods. 1) the VRMs on my eah6850 are the wrong side but have 2 holes either side for a push-pin heatsink, so I wrapped it round with 2 cable ties + thermal paste. 2. The superglue in corner (heatsinks are long enough to cover 3 memory chips) 3. Thermal tape from a kit. Its this kit (manufacturing date 2004!): http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=178124&Sku=T925-1022&csid=ITD&recordsPerPage=10&body=REVIEWS#CustomerReviewsBlock Its on what I guess is the memory VRM so I'm not expecting it to melt. Even my VRMs with this card only have to deal with 1.233v and they have got to 57'c with core at 53'c. Its not a R290X but it does show the cooling has got more headroom. My radiator is a 570LX Asetek: http://asetek.com/desktop/cpu-coolers/570lx.aspx

I'm personally not a fan of small fans, the bigger they are the more air they case push quietly, so if a 120mm fan can fit where you would put a 40mm I'd use that. The smaller fan I have is the 92mm SST-FQ92 to replace the NZXT G10 stock fan : https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-040-SV&groupid=701&catid=2331&subcat=820


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Do the evga reference cards need a copper shim??


Reference cards will not require a shim.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Would something like this also work:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-thermal-padding-1-0mm-thick.html
> 
> Edit: And a follow-up question, would sticking two 20x20x0.5mm copper shims together be a bad idea (with thermal paste in between)? Performance PCs sells the 0.5mm thick ones.


I'm not sure if sticking two copper shims back to back would be a good idea. You could try it, but I am not sure how good heat transfer will be.

If you live in the U.S., the thermal pads I recommend are:
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-15x15x1mm-Conductive-Heatsink-Northbridge/dp/B00EQ23OQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426991128&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+pad+GPU


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I'm leaving town this weekend so nothing will be done until Monday at the soonest. And I have the reference cooler not the ACX cooler. I'm in no rush as the bracket and cooler won't be here till next week.
> 
> FYI - I can make the cooper shim so no waiting.


\

Ok, just make sure you lap it really well so that it is smooth on both sides.


----------



## sakete

Alright, so just now I disassembled the board (EVGA 980Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+) to see what's under the hood:


This is the actual board, after I removed the ACX 2.0 fan/heatsink. It's a big heatspreader I guess which touches the VRAM chips surrounding the GPU. This shot was taken after I had removed all the thermal paste residue (re-applied Arctic Silver 5 when I re-installed the ACX 2.0 fan/heatsink)


The GPU, just because










This is the size of the physical chip, about 45x45mm. I also measured the depth from the chip to big black heatspreader and it appears to be about 1.0mm, so when installing a copper shim, it'll have to be 1.0mm thick indeed.


This is the size of the core, about 25x25mm or 26x26mm, somewhere in that range.

So my question now is, what size copper shim should I get? Still 20x20x1.0mm? I feel like 20x20x1 will be too small, might need to be more like 25x25x1. Thoughts? (would something like this work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-25mm-25mm-1-0mm-Heatsink-Copper-pad-Shim-for-Dell-XPS-GPU-VGA-/270932925392?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f14dc5bd0 ?) As far as thickness, would it better to err on the safe side and get 1.2mm thick instead of just 1.0mm?

Also, I installed the NZXT Kraken G10 backplate and I have the impression that I can use that without having to remove the full-size EVGA backplate that came pre-installed with this particular card. So that's great. Will know for sure once I try installing the AIO X31. Either way, that block definitely won't fit in those spaces, it's too big (wide/long) by about 1-2mm, so for the X31 you'll need a shim. Chances are you'll need a shim for any AIO block.

Appreciate all your help and any other feedback you can give me for installing this Kraken G10.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Alright, so just now I disassembled the board (EVGA 980Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+) to see what's under the hood:
> 
> This is the actual board, after I removed the ACX 2.0 fan/heatsink. It's a big heatspreader I guess which touches the VRAM chips surrounding the GPU. This shot was taken after I had removed all the thermal paste residue (re-applied Arctic Silver 5 when I re-installed the ACX 2.0 fan/heatsink)
> 
> The GPU, just because
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the size of the physical chip, about 45x45mm. I also measured the depth from the chip to big black heatspreader and it appears to be about 1.0mm, so when installing a copper shim, it'll have to be 1.0mm thick indeed.
> 
> This is the size of the core, about 25x25mm or 26x26mm, somewhere in that range.
> 
> So my question now is, what size copper shim should I get? Still 20x20x1.0mm? I feel like 20x20x1 will be too small, might need to be more like 25x25x1. Thoughts? (would something like this work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-25mm-25mm-1-0mm-Heatsink-Copper-pad-Shim-for-Dell-XPS-GPU-VGA-/270932925392?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f14dc5bd0 ?) As far as thickness, would it better to err on the safe side and get 1.2mm thick instead of just 1.0mm?
> 
> Also, I installed the NZXT Kraken G10 backplate and I have the impression that I can use that without having to remove the full-size EVGA backplate that came pre-installed with this particular card. So that's great. Will know for sure once I try installing the AIO X31. Either way, that block definitely won't fit in those spaces, it's too big (wide/long) by about 1-2mm, so for the X31 you'll need a shim. Chances are you'll need a shim for any AIO block.
> 
> Appreciate all your help and any other feedback you can give me for installing this Kraken G10.


EVGA does it once again. A beautiful card with a built in heatsink/midplate. You are going to get some fantastic results on both Core and VRMs when its all said and done.

I wasn't able to find any 25mm x 25mm x 1mm copper shims available when I was looking over a year ago. If you can find one, great, use it, if not, 20mm x 20mm worked just fine for me. The ones you linked from eBay look good, order those. In my experience ordering stuff off of ebay that comes from China, it has only taken 3 weeks at most, but usually arrives within 2. Once you put thermal paste on both sides of the copper shim, it thickens up. I actually used only a .08mm thick copper shim, and it worked fine for me, so 1mm will be fine.

Yes, you can use the EVGA backplate. In order to do so, you will want to thin down or remove the foam pad that comes on the G10's mounting backplate. I thinned mine down, others have removed it completely. Both ways work.

Yea, you will definitely need a shim for the EVGA card, but don't look at it as a negative. That built in heatsink/midplate that comes pre-installed on EVGA cards is incredible. You are going to be able to keep this midplate with the use of a shim. Also, if you want, you could buy some aluminum heatsinks and apply them directly over the VRMs using the pre-applied thermal tape. This is what I did with my GTX 780. I used a shim, kept the midplate, and added some tiny aluminum heatsinks to the midplate just over the VRMs. Temps are fantastic all around.



In purple are where the VRMs are. The aluminum heatsinks I use and recommend come in a pack of 20, so you will have plenty of extras to place all around if you want. Just be sure to cover the area I circled, and the area where the fan will be blowing.

You could also consider buying a VGA to PWM adapter. This will allow you to plug the 92mm fan directly into your GPU. It will run at 100% at all times, which is what you want. Unless if you buy a 92mm fan that is PWM, then you will be able to control it in MSI afterburner, but you will still want to keep its speed at or near 100% at all times. I use the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm Fan. It works very well. I keep mine at a constant 2000rpm(70%) It is inaudible and keeps my VRMs nice and cool. Once you hit 2200rpm that is when it gets noticeable in terms of noise. It does go all the way up to 3,000RPM, so if you are aiming for some extreme overclocks, this fan has the headroom to get you there.


----------



## Mnemo05

I am having trouble clearing the 3rd slot of my matx board for a possible SLI + g10 combo

The pumps are well within the 2 slot height but I noticed that the hoses from my cooler(Antec 920) can only bend so much but still wont clear the slot

Any AIO out there that you know of that is somewhat similar to the hose placement of the EVGA ones? TIA


----------



## jezzer

Say i would want to secure the heatsinks which are attached to the VRM with some kind of string or strap around the PCB. What kind of material can be used for that?


----------



## hht92

Hey guys has anyone try G10 on 780 Direct CU ii ? I saw something many posts back but can you tell me if its working ?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## PiERiT

Is the cooler compatibility list in the OP up to date? I've seen a lot of people suggest an H60 with this, which isn't listed and doesn't seem like it would work.

There's also the H50 Quiet Edition, which seems like it _would_ work, but it isn't listed:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181010


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Say i would want to secure the heatsinks which are attached to the VRM with some kind of string or strap around the PCB. What kind of material can be used for that?


I used zip ties through holes meant for push pins to secure a long heatsink on the VRMs with thermal interface material (ofcourse).

Has anyone found a problem with power target /TDP. I'd rather if I upgrade to a card which is limited by that feature that it isn't limiting my overclock. See this thread for an example:http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=398625


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiERiT*
> 
> Is the cooler compatibility list in the OP up to date? I've seen a lot of people suggest an H60 with this, which isn't listed and doesn't seem like it would work.
> 
> There's also the H50 Quiet Edition, which seems like it _would_ work, but it isn't listed:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181010


That is the AIO I am using, fit just fine.

That is the Corsair CW-9060006-WW version that is listed on NZXT site.


----------



## PiERiT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> That is the AIO I am using, fit just fine.


Thanks, I think I'll grab that when it's on sale. I'm not in any immediate rush.

Can you tell me if the tubes are long enough to reach the back of a case? And can the fan be oriented differently than how Newegg displays it? In their picture they have it as intake, but I'd want to do exhaust.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiERiT*
> 
> Thanks, I think I'll grab that when it's on sale. I'm not in any immediate rush.
> 
> Can you tell me if the tubes are long enough to reach the back of a case? And can the fan be oriented differently than how Newegg displays it? In their picture they have it as intake, but I'd want to do exhaust.


The tubing is a bit short, about 28cm, was plenty long for me.



They only include 1.25" screws with this kit for mounting and recommend using the fan as intake, I also wanted to use as exhaust so went to the hardware store and got 4 6/32X1/4" screws and it worked just fine.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Anybody used one of these on an EVGA GTX 970 FTW+? Thanks.


----------



## jezzer

Hmm just ordered a TITAN X ACX 2.0 cooler set, i think it will fit the 980 Ti and it includes backplate AND the heatsink middle plate.

Kinda depends if i can get my hands on a copper shim and how long it will take. If i can get one i will use the ACX cooler until i get the shim other wise i will cut the plate.

If i cut on the places marked on the pic and only attach half the plate i would be able to fit the kraken without a shim right??

I made red cutmarks, if i cut like that i must be able to fit it but when i cut at the blue markers would the cooling block fit in the square? I think the plate would still be attached enough withou those points.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Snip]


Be aware that the usual reason for a shim is that there is a raised area around the GPU core which is supposed to protect the GPU core from uneven heavyhanded mounting.

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/342011-titan-aio-wc/#entry4714206

"For the G10 you'd actually need to remove the midplate and thus running those already screaming VRMs hotter without 3rd party shims/heatsinks.

Someone else on OCN has done a G10 on the Titan X but used 2 copper shims to still retain the midplate for VRM cooling/stock fan. Also he chopped off the fan part so he's just using the back plate with the asetek ring.

It's why the 980 EVGA kit works as well since its plate is extended to keep the midplate on both the 980 and Titan. "



There are posts about "Titan X" in this thread already, I suggest you read them all:
=1487012&advanced=1]http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?search=titan+x&resultSortingPreference=recency&byuser=&output=posts&sdate=0&newer=1&type=all&containingthread[0]=1487012&advanced=1


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Say i would want to secure the heatsinks which are attached to the VRM with some kind of string or strap around the PCB. What kind of material can be used for that?


I don't think this is necessary. Just use aluminum heatsinks.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hey guys has anyone try G10 on 780 Direct CU ii ? I saw something many posts back but can you tell me if its working ?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Yup, it works very well on this card.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Hmm just ordered a TITAN X ACX 2.0 cooler set, i think it will fit the 980 Ti and it includes backplate AND the heatsink middle plate.
> 
> Kinda depends if i can get my hands on a copper shim and how long it will take. If i can get one i will use the ACX cooler until i get the shim other wise i will cut the plate.
> 
> If i cut on the places marked on the pic and only attach half the plate i would be able to fit the kraken without a shim right??
> 
> I made red cutmarks, if i cut like that i must be able to fit it but when i cut at the blue markers would the cooling block fit in the square? I think the plate would still be attached enough withou those points.


I would just wait until you get the copper shim. This way you aren't voiding any warranties. If you really want, you can cut off those 4 prongs, that you labeled in blue. Those prongs are the only thing preventing proper mounting with an AIO.

Don't listen to masteradams, he has it wrong. Plenty of people use midplates with their G10s, it is actually encouraged that you keep the midplate because it cools the sensitive components so well. Just buy a copper shim, use thermal paste on both sides, and you're in business.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Be aware that the usual reason for a shim is that there is a raised area around the GPU core which is supposed to protect the GPU core from uneven heavyhanded mounting.
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/342011-titan-aio-wc/#entry4714206
> 
> "For the G10 you'd actually need to remove the midplate and thus running those already screaming VRMs hotter without 3rd party shims/heatsinks.
> 
> Someone else on OCN has done a G10 on the Titan X but used 2 copper shims to still retain the midplate for VRM cooling/stock fan. Also he chopped off the fan part so he's just using the back plate with the asetek ring.
> 
> It's why the 980 EVGA kit works as well since its plate is extended to keep the midplate on both the 980 and Titan. "
> 
> 
> 
> There are posts about "Titan X" in this thread already, I suggest you read them all:
> =1487012&advanced=1]http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?search=titan+x&resultSortingPreference=recency&byuser=&output=posts&sdate=0&newer=1&type=all&containingthread[0]=1487012&advanced=1


Using the midplate with the G10 is perfectly fine, and actually recommended. I do this myself on my EVGA GTX 780 SC. All you need is a copper shim to get proper mounting pressure between the AIO and the GPU Die.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Don't listen to masteradams, he has it wrong. Plenty of people use midplates with their G10s,


Don't mean to be rude, but you need to read more carefully. Its actually a quote and the full quote didn't recommend one or the other.


----------



## PiERiT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> The tubing is a bit short, about 28cm, was plenty long for me.
> 
> 
> 
> They only include 1.25" screws with this kit for mounting and recommend using the fan as intake, I also wanted to use as exhaust so went to the hardware store and got 4 6/32X1/4" screws and it worked just fine.


Thanks (again).

Last question, for you or anyone else: what's the recommended setup for the 3 power cables -- waterblock, AIO fan, and VRM fan? Do all three plug into the mobo? Can a card's existing pins be used? I only have one not-in-use port on my motherboard so I'll probably need some sort of adapter.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiERiT*
> 
> Thanks (again).
> 
> Last question, for you or anyone else: what's the recommended setup for the 3 power cables -- waterblock, AIO fan, and VRM fan? Do all three plug into the mobo? Can a card's existing pins be used? I only have one not-in-use port on my motherboard so I'll probably need some sort of adapter.


I have a m-itx motherboard with only 2 fan headers so I know all about this. I have the pump hooked to the chassis fan header on the motherboard, I have the fan speed set to 100% in the bios.The G10 fan I am controlling with a Gelid Solution VGA 4 pin to PWM fan adapter cable. http://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1434258963&sr=8-5&keywords=gelid+pwm
The fan for the AIO I am controlling with a 5 channel PWM splitter. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311001


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Don't mean to be rude, but you need to read more carefully. Its actually a quote and the full quote didn't recommend one or the other.


I don't mean to be rude either, but you are presenting information that isn't correct, and isn't relevant to the gentleman asking for help. He has a 980Ti, and he bought a Titan X ACX 2.0 Cooler for that 980Ti to use until he gets the copper shim which takes a long time to arrive because it comes from China.

In the LTT thread, they are talking about the reference Titan X which has a big built in mid plate.


Vs.



Following the link in your quote, the guy took the G10 bracket, removed the part of the bracket that holds the fan and essentially used just the mounting teeth and the G10 backplate in conjunction with the stock reference cooler's midplate and blower fan. Its pretty genius and crafty. What that guy did, doesn't pertain to what Jezzer is planning to do, and to quote someone saying a midplate won't work, when a midplate will work and is encouraged to be used with the G10(when applicable) is not the kind of information that should be spread on this thread.


----------



## Mnemo05

never used copper shins before on my g10

used it in my old 580 and now my 980(both reference boards) without removing the midplate, keep my vrm and vram cool, i think?

at the moment, idles are 28-30c, reaches high 40s on full load..


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> never used copper shins before on my g10
> 
> used it in my old 580 and now my 980(both reference boards) without removing the midplate, keep my vrm and vram cool, i think?
> 
> at the moment, idles are 28-30c, reaches high 40s on full load..


Shims are mainly for cards that have height problems between the GPU Die and elsewhere in the card's design. I've seen them used mostly on EVGA Cards because of the way their mid plates are designed.

Yea, your card should be plenty fine for VRM temps. Zotac makes a really nice card with very beefy built in heatsinks. Your VRMs should be nice and cool.


----------



## Mnemo05

anyone here using a 980 Gigabyte G1?

I would like to know if it comes with the midplate so I dont have to worry about the vrams and vrm.. thanks!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> anyone here using a 980 Gigabyte G1?
> 
> I would like to know if it comes with the midplate so I dont have to worry about the vrams and vrm.. thanks!


Pics of the G1 on this site. http://lab501.net/nvidia-geforce-gtx-980-review-gigabyte-g1-gaming/15/

Doesn't look like it has a midplate.


----------



## Mnemo05

^thanks

looked up some reviews, seems like the VRM and VRams are being cooled by the same heatsink that cools the GPU

I guess I will stick with either the stock cooled ones or another Zotac amp! OC

now, are there other AIOs out there that has a hose config similar to the one offered by EVGA? where the hose are not angled, they simple come straight out of the cold plate/pump combo


----------



## besthijacker

Hello. Will G10 fit EVGA 980 ACX 2.0, exact model is 04G-P4-2981-KR? It looks like it's also using reference PCB.

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/upload/pictures/gtx980_pcb_77760.jpg

Am I going to require any kind of that shim stuff because it looks like it's serious business and sounds scary!

Thanks!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *besthijacker*
> 
> Hello. Will G10 fit EVGA 980 ACX 2.0, exact model is 04G-P4-2981-KR? It looks like it's also using reference PCB.
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/upload/pictures/gtx980_pcb_77760.jpg
> 
> Am I going to require any kind of that shim stuff because it looks like it's serious business and sounds scary!
> 
> Thanks!


The G10 will fit, but it doesn't look like that card comes with a built in mid-plate for cooling the VRMs. So no shim is required, but it would be a good idea to get some kind of thermal pad + heatsink combo over the VRMs just to be safe.


----------



## besthijacker

Actually. I just opened it up and it has a mid-plate. Do I still need heatsinks or just shims now? Or I just have no idea what I am talking about.

http://i.imgur.com/hhU0M3T.jpg

Regards.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *besthijacker*
> 
> Actually. I just opened it up and it has a mid-plate. Do I still need heatsinks or just shims now? Or I just have no idea what I am talking about.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/hhU0M3T.jpg
> 
> Regards.


OH NICE!!!

Very good. I was curious because typically EVGA cards come with mid-plates, but looking online, I was only seeing naked PCBs. This is good! But the factory TIM job is one for the ages... Yikes that is bad.

You WILL need a copper shim. 25mm x 25mm x 1mm OR 20mm x 20mm x 1mm.

You will also need to buy your own thermal paste if you don't already own some because TIM needs to be applied to both sides of the shim.

Your VRMs are nicely covered, so adding additional heatsinks is not necessary, but if you would like to do so, I encourage it. This set of 20 aluminum heatsinks is super cheap, and you can apply them directly on to the mid plate using their pre-applied tape.

Note: For anyone else reading this: You cannot use the aluminum heatsinks I linked and their pre-applied tape directly onto circuitry, this is just for cards that have mid-plates built in.


----------



## Mnemo05

wow that factory applies TIM is epic, prolly enough portion for another card and a proc.. ahahah!


----------



## besthijacker

Thanks! I went ahead and ordered 25mm x 25mm x 1 off ebay right away. Probably will take few weeks to deliver
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Your VRMs are nicely covered, so adding additional heatsinks is not necessary, but if you would like to do so, I encourage it. This set of 20 aluminum heatsinks is super cheap, and you can apply them directly on to the mid plate using their pre-applied tape.


I have quick question about the heatsinks. Where should I put them on my midplate exactly?

I guess, I will wait until shims arrive before ordering everything else.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *besthijacker*
> 
> Thanks! I went ahead and ordered 25mm x 25mm x 1 off ebay right away. Probably will take few weeks to deliver
> I have quick question about the heatsinks. Where should I put them on my midplate exactly?
> 
> I guess, I will wait until shims arrive before ordering everything else.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> wow that factory applies TIM is epic, prolly enough portion for another card and a proc.. ahahah!


Directly over the VRMs. I'm on my Kindle right now, but later today I will mark the areas where you should place them. This is optional, but encouraged nonetheless because it's only $7 for a little extra peace of mind.

Yeah and I thought the factory job on my EVGA 780 was bad, but his takes the cake... and the icing.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Alright, so just now I disassembled the board (EVGA 980Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+) to see what's under the hood:
> 
> 
> This is the actual board, after I removed the ACX 2.0 fan/heatsink. It's a big heatspreader I guess which touches the VRAM chips surrounding the GPU. This shot was taken after I had removed all the thermal paste residue (re-applied Arctic Silver 5 when I re-installed the ACX 2.0 fan/heatsink)
> 
> 
> The GPU, just because
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the size of the physical chip, about 45x45mm. I also measured the depth from the chip to big black heatspreader and it appears to be about 1.0mm, so when installing a copper shim, it'll have to be 1.0mm thick indeed.
> 
> 
> This is the size of the core, about 25x25mm or 26x26mm, somewhere in that range.
> 
> So my question now is, what size copper shim should I get? Still 20x20x1.0mm? I feel like 20x20x1 will be too small, might need to be more like 25x25x1. Thoughts? (would something like this work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-25mm-25mm-1-0mm-Heatsink-Copper-pad-Shim-for-Dell-XPS-GPU-VGA-/270932925392?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f14dc5bd0 ?) As far as thickness, would it better to err on the safe side and get 1.2mm thick instead of just 1.0mm?
> 
> Also, I installed the NZXT Kraken G10 backplate and I have the impression that I can use that without having to remove the full-size EVGA backplate that came pre-installed with this particular card. So that's great. Will know for sure once I try installing the AIO X31. Either way, that block definitely won't fit in those spaces, it's too big (wide/long) by about 1-2mm, so for the X31 you'll need a shim. Chances are you'll need a shim for any AIO block.
> 
> Appreciate all your help and any other feedback you can give me for installing this Kraken G10.


You want the 1.5mm thickness shims, 25x25x1.5mm. The 1mm shims are not thick enough and will allow the copper base-plate of the AIO to bite down on the tabs of the ACX mid-plate that encircle the GPU die, preventing adequate pressure and contact. Learned this from experience. Why 1mm shims are still recommended by the OP is beyond me (20x20x1mm at that, when 780 Ti die size is 25x25mm).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200618079829?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also, if you don't have a Kraken G10 AIO on hand in conjunction with a 980 Ti with a mid-plate might I suggest going with Inno's Hybrid model as it has adequate MOSFET cooling:

http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=203

I would only consider the G10 route if I had a card with a VRM cooling mid-plate and if I already had a G10 on hand. The price difference between a card with a mid-plate and Inno's hybrid is comparable, but the latter offers far superior MOSFET cooling as can be discerned simply by comparing images of Inno's hybrid and the ACX mid-plate (far greater surface area).


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> You want the 1.5mm thickness shims, 25x25x1.5mm. The 1mm shims are not thick enough and will allow the copper base-plate of the AIO to bite down on the tabs of the ACX mid-plate that encircle the GPU die, preventing adequate pressure and contact. Learned this from experience. Why 1mm shims are still recommended by the OP is beyond me (20x20x1mm at that, when 780 Ti die size is 25x25mm).
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/200618079829?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> Also, if you don't have a Kraken G10 AIO on hand in conjunction with a 980 Ti with a mid-plate might I suggest going with Inno's Hybrid model as it has adequate MOSFET cooling:
> 
> http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=203
> 
> I would only consider the G10 route if I had a card with a VRM cooling mid-plate and if I already had a G10 on hand. The price difference between a card with a mid-plate and Inno's hybrid is comparable, but the latter offers far superior MOSFET cooling as can be discerned simply by comparing images of Inno's hybrid and the ACX mid-plate (far greater surface area).


I'm stuck with EVGA, so can't go to Inno3D. And I already ordered the 25x25x1mm shims, so will see how those work out. I did take measurements myself and it's about 1mm deep, so considering that I have to put TIM on both sides, it should be slightly thicker than 1.0mm, more like 1.1 or 1.2mm.

Thanks for the suggestions though, will keep it in mind if it doesn't work out.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> I'm stuck with EVGA, so can't go to Inno3D. And I already ordered the 25x25x1mm shims, so will see how those work out. I did take measurements myself and it's about 1mm deep, so considering that I have to put TIM on both sides, it should be slightly thicker than 1.0mm, more like 1.1 or 1.2mm.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions though, will keep it in mind if it doesn't work out.


They won't work out, save yourself the time and pay the $5 for the 1.5mm thick ones. You'll see.


----------



## besthijacker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Directly over the VRMs. I'm on my Kindle right now, but later today I will mark the areas where you should place them. This is optional, but encouraged nonetheless because it's only $7 for a little extra peace of mind.
> 
> Yeah and I thought the factory job on my EVGA 780 was bad, but his takes the cake... and the icing.


Thanks! Can't wait for your update with pics!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *besthijacker*
> 
> Thanks! Can't wait for your update with pics!




In purple is where the VRMs are, so cover those for sure. In yellow are the other places you could place them because you will have 20 pieces to use as you please. To ensure good adhesion, you should clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol and let dry before attaching the heatsinks.


----------



## masteratarms

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/his_r9_280x_iceq_x2_turbo_review,7.html

I've seen one of these for sale 2nd hand, it has a CHL8228 chip which means afterburner can control its voltage. Would the AIO fit and would it need a shim? Also what is recommended for replacing the pads under the mid plate?


----------



## APatte111

Finally finished my build with my dual NZXT Kraken G10 setup... I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out and also how it performs...


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APatte111*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally finished my build with my dual NZXT Kraken G10 setup... I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out and also how it performs...


Woo! That is a thing of beauty! Very nice build!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/his_r9_280x_iceq_x2_turbo_review,7.html
> 
> I've seen one of these for sale 2nd hand, it has a CHL8228 chip which means afterburner can control its voltage. Would the AIO fit and would it need a shim? Also what is recommended for replacing the pads under the mid plate?


Any AIO that is compatible with the G10 will fit.

I would use a shim because it looks like the stock cooler has a built-in shim of sorts. Just a 20mm x 20mm x 1mm shim will work. The GPU core doesn't appear to be as large as other cores which usually take 25mm.

No need to replace the pads under the mid plate unless you really really want to. I wouldn't even mess with it. The built in midplate is nice, and the pads aren't going to deteriorate to the point of having to be replaced. If you do want to replace them, then double sided, electrically non-conductive thermal pads is what you want.


----------



## VSG

It will be interesting to see if the G10 will work with any of the Fury GPUs


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It will be interesting to see if the G10 will work with any of the Fury GPUs


They are going to need some kind of cooling, thats for sure.


----------



## APatte111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Woo! That is a thing of beauty! Very nice build!


Thanks! It's my first PC build... I'm a converted console gamer.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APatte111*
> 
> Thanks! It's my first PC build... I'm a converted console gamer.


What made you decide to chunk the console?


----------



## APatte111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> What made you decide to chunk the console?


I had buddies that played on PCs, so I decided to build one and try it out. I gave up the console after my PC was built because I enjoy the PC experience better...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APatte111*
> 
> I had buddies that played on PCs, so I decided to build one and try it out. I gave up the console after my PC was built because I enjoy the PC experience better...


Most do. Welcome to the club


----------



## APatte111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Most do. Welcome to the club


Thank you very much... I'm glad to be here!


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APatte111*
> 
> Thank you very much... I'm glad to be here!


----------



## stickskillz

I just ordered an EVGA 980Ti. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487139
I want the quietest and strongest AIO water cooler that works with the Kraken G10 and my 980Ti.
On NZXT's website they say the Titan X is compatible and don't list the 980Ti.

Is the Kraken G10 compatible with my 980Ti?
What is the best cooler to pair it with in terms of noise and cooling performance?
I don't mind paying for a twin cooler like the Corsair H110 if you would recommend that.
Do I need to buy anything else to cool my 980Ti other than a G10 and an AIO cooler? Heattinks, backplate...anything else?

Thank you for your help in advance.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickskillz*
> 
> I just ordered an EVGA 980Ti. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487139
> I want the quietest and strongest AIO water cooler that works with the Kraken G10 and my 980Ti.
> On NZXT's website they say the Titan X is compatible and don't list the 980Ti.
> 
> Is the Kraken G10 compatible with my 980Ti?
> What is the best cooler to pair it with in terms of noise and cooling performance?
> I don't mind paying for a twin cooler like the Corsair H110 if you would recommend that.
> Do I need to buy anything else to cool my 980Ti other than a G10 and an AIO cooler? Heattinks, backplate...anything else?
> 
> Thank you for your help in advance.


Congratz on your new 980Ti! Beastly card. This particular model doesn't come with a built in heatsink/midplate, so I recommend that you make your own. Its cheap, don't worry.

The G10 is compatible with the 980Ti. What chassis do you have? It is true that larger radiators will run cooler, and allow for lower fan speeds to reduce noise, but in terms of priceerformance they aren't be best because diminishing returns hit hard and fast past 120mm. Also, mounting and airflow becomes something you have to be aware of with these larger AIOs. They generally have to be front mounted because of tube length. On top of that, you will want to set it to exhaust because the air coming out of the radiator is very hot, and you want that air being blown out of your chassis, not directly into it and on your GPU. I think an X41 would be a good mix of low-noise, ease of use, and performance, but whatever you want, I will help you with.

Some extras you will want regardless of AIO you choose are:

Double sided, electrically non-conductive thermal pads - $5
Aluminum Heatsinks - $7
VGA to PWM Adapter - $6
Because this is the 980Ti, I would spend a little more and buy a higher end 92mm fan. The included NZXT 92mm fan is perfectly fine, and you would be ok with it. Its quiet even at full speed and you wouldn't have to pay anything extra, but if you want to really push the 980Ti in terms of overclocks and have that extra peace of mind, a different fan might be best.
I really like the Cooler Master Blade Master 92mm. Its inexpensive, super powerful(3,000rpm), and PWM capable so you can control it in MSI afterburner. This fan does get audible at 2,000+ RPM, and pretty noticeable at full speed, but you will be hard pressed to find a more powerful fan for this price. I keep mine on a fan curve to be at 1,000rpm when idling, and when I game, I ramp it up to 2,000RPM.

It sounds like silence is a priority for you though, so maybe you will want a more expensive, silence optimized 92mm PWM fan. A lot of people recommend Noctua, and they are very silence oriented, but only coming in at 1600rpm max, which is what you will want to run it at when gaming.

I also recommend some high end thermal compound if you don't own some already. Gelid GC-Extreme is my go-to, but it is expensive compared to other good TIMs such as IC Diamond, Noctua NT-H1, MX-4, Prolimatech PK-3, etc..

If you do go with a 120/140mm radiator, you will want to buy a 2nd fan for push/pull which allows you to run the fans at a lower speed while still delivering good performance.


----------



## stickskillz

My case is the Rosewill Blackhawk Blue. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147192&cm_re=blackhawk_blue-_-11-147-192-_-Product

Thank you so much for your detailed reply. The thermal pads in your first link are out of stock for 1-2 months on Amazon. Can I get something in stock now from somewhere?

I don't know what chassis I have. My dad owns an Auto Body and takes cars apart. He thinks the AIO needs to have the same spacing for the screws as the fan in the case that we are taking out.

I would rather get a bigger AIO like the X61 or H110. Would they fit? I don't mind spending more on parts as this way is a lot less expensive than a custom cooling loop. NCIXUS was directing me to an almost $500 CLC solution for my GPU.

I love the fan you recommended for only $8. How much stronger is it than the stock fan? I wouldn't mind spending more for a quiet fan as well. You are so kind and thoughtful. What do you mean by a second fan for push/pull? Are you talking on the G10, AIO, case...

Can I use any of my existing case fans if I need a second fan anyway?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickskillz*
> 
> My case is the Rosewill Blackhawk Blue. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147192&cm_re=blackhawk_blue-_-11-147-192-_-Product
> 
> Thank you so much for your detailed reply. The thermal pads in your first link are out of stock for 1-2 months on Amazon. Can I get something in stock now from somewhere?
> 
> I don't know what chassis I have. My dad owns an Auto Body and takes cars apart. He thinks the AIO needs to have the same spacing for the screws as the fan in the case that we are taking out.
> 
> I would rather get a bigger AIO like the X61 or H110. Would they fit? I don't mind spending more on parts as this way is a lot less expensive than a custom cooling loop. NCIXUS was directing me to an almost $500 CLC solution for my GPU.
> 
> I love the fan you recommended for only $8. How much stronger is it than the stock fan? I wouldn't mind spending more for a quiet fan as well. You are so kind and thoughtful. What do you mean by a second fan for push/pull? Are you talking on the G10, AIO, case...
> 
> Can I use any of my existing case fans if I need a second fan anyway?


Your case is going to be a limiting factor to what you can do radiator wise. You will have to go with a 120mm radiator, and set it to rear exhaust. No other configuration will work for this chassis and the G10. Don't fret though, the majority of people run 120mm, and its truly the best bang for buck, and you can get plenty of performance and low noise out of it.

Thats a bummer about the thermal pads, I didn't notice that. I am heading out tonight, but later I will look for an alternative. What you need is a double sided, electrically non-conductive thermal pad that is between .5mm and 1.5mm in thickness.

Yes, he is right, that is why you are going to be limited to just the rear 120mm spot because no where else in your case will it fit. Bigger radiators just won't fit in your case.

Its probably twice as strong as the stock 92mm fan when at full speed, but you don't need to run it at full speed. The included stock fan is plenty to be honest, its also very quiet even at full speed. You can stick with the stock fan because your case does have a side mounted fan, which you will set to intake to help cool the GPU down, so no need for a stronger 92mm fan in your situation.

2nd fan for push/pull on the radiator. Yea, you should be able to reuse your stock case fans, as they appear to be 120mm.

You will want to mount the radiator as rear exhaust, with two 120mm fans in push/pull. If you don't mind using mix-matched fans, you won't have to buy any additional ones.


----------



## sakete

Well, just finally installed the Kraken G10 with Kraken X31 AIO on my 980Ti. While playing a game, temps would reach about 50-55C, which is great! This is at stock speeds. It's an EVGA 980Ti SC+, with the ACX+ cooler removed (too noisy). Now it's nice and quiet and I get better temps too









I used a 25x25x1mm copper shim plate and it works just fine, makes good contact with the 980Ti core, in spite of the mid-plate. So no need to go for 1.5mm thick plates.


----------



## Fidget-STC

This isn't, strictly speaking, about the G10, but I was wondering about the Pulse Modding Antec Kuhler. I have an MSI GTX 970 with the VRMs on the bracket side and I was thinking about flipping the Kuhler over and installing it reverse, with the fan over the VRMs. I wanted to know if anyone had tried something like that and if there was enough room for the fan if installed that way. Thanks!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Well, just finally installed the Kraken G10 with Kraken X31 AIO on my 980Ti. While playing a game, temps would reach about 50-55C, which is great! This is at stock speeds. It's an EVGA 980Ti SC+, with the ACX+ cooler removed (too noisy). Now it's nice and quiet and I get better temps too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a 25x25x1mm copper shim plate and it works just fine, makes good contact with the 980Ti core, in spite of the mid-plate. So no need to go for 1.5mm thick plates.


Woo! Very nice! Good results! You can probably drop closer to the 50C range if you add a 2nd 120mm fan for push/pull.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidget-STC*
> 
> This isn't, strictly speaking, about the G10, but I was wondering about the Pulse Modding Antec Kuhler. I have an MSI GTX 970 with the VRMs on the bracket side and I was thinking about flipping the Kuhler over and installing it reverse, with the fan over the VRMs. I wanted to know if anyone had tried something like that and if there was enough room for the fan if installed that way. Thanks!


Possibly..... I think it might be viable if you use some washers and longer than normal screws to help elevate the 92mm fan above the PCB because I think if you tried to use standard length screws, the fan wouldn't fit properly when trying to mount on the left side.


----------



## besthijacker

Does the push-pull method makes a lot of difference? Because I am about to finalize my purchase order and not sure if I should order extra fans also.
This would ideally be my order

NZXT Kraken X61 - CPU
NZXT Kraken X41 - GPU x2
NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM x2 =To replace G10 fan.
Gelid Thermal
Arctic Silver Cleaner
Cosmos heatsinks x2 (Should be enough to cover two video cards)

If I were to go with push-pull, I would probably end up with NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM x4. Which would bring up entire order by extra $120!!! Unless there are some good cheaper alternatives.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *besthijacker*
> 
> Does the push-pull method makes a lot of difference? Because I am about to finalize my purchase order and not sure if I should order extra fans also.
> This would ideally be my order
> 
> NZXT Kraken X61 - CPU
> NZXT Kraken X41 - GPU x2
> NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM x2 =To replace G10 fan.
> Gelid Thermal
> Arctic Silver Cleaner
> Cosmos heatsinks x2 (Should be enough to cover two video cards)
> 
> If I were to go with push-pull, I would probably end up with NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM x4. Which would bring up entire order by extra $120!!! Unless there are some good cheaper alternatives.


I'm personally not a big advocate of Noctua fans unless your priority is as quiet as possible. It has been shown that Noctuas, while very quiet, don't offer the best performance. Its not bad mix of noiseerformance, but understand that what you are really paying for with Noctuas is the low noise and is that few Dba lower really worth $25 per fan? I love my Cooler Master Blade Master 120s, which are $8-$10 each, and I run them at a constant 1250rpm and they perform exceptionally well, and are very quiet. They don't come with a 6 year warranty, so thats another plus for Noctua. I could never personally justify spending so much money on fans, so at your discretion, if you value silence above all else, then go for Noctuas.

Even a single pack of 20 heatsinks should be enough to cover the critical areas of two cards, but if you want to really cover the entire mid-plate, then two packs can't hurt. They are cheap at $7 per 20pcs.

Push/pull does help with the G10. It drops temps by an additional 3-5C, and helps lower noise by allowing you to run both at low speeds.

I use a Cooler Master Seidon 240M(which uses Cooler Master Blade Master 120s) on my CPU, and X31 + two Cooler Master Blade Master 120s on my GPU. All of these fans run at a constant 1250rpm, very quiet, excellent performance. These fans do get loud at higher speeds, but I run them at 50%, and its an excellent blend of priceerformance:low noise. Everyone has their fan preference, those bad boys are mine.


----------



## besthijacker

My main reason is to trying to match my case & motherboard. I am rocking H630(White) with Sabertooth Z97 MARK S. Which makes me whole interior pretty much white. I don't think I can live with black/black fans. They must be combination of Black on White.

I will probably switch to ARCTIC F9 PWM Rev. 2 x2 and not sure what to do about 140mm fans. Unless I go with Kraken X31 and use my existing Corsair Air Series SP120, which are technically black but come with replaceable coloured rings.

I guess I could get away with just black/blacks fans for Kraken G10 since nobody will actually be able to see them, but radiator fans definitely have to be black/white.

Heh. I know I am just being silly right now.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *besthijacker*
> 
> My main reason is to trying to match my case & motherboard. I am rocking H630(White) with Sabertooth Z97 MARK S. Which makes me whole interior pretty much white. I don't think I can live with black/black fans. They must be combination of Black on White.
> 
> I will probably switch to ARCTIC F9 PWM Rev. 2 x2 and not sure what to do about 140mm fans. Unless I go with Kraken X31 and use my existing Corsair Air Series SP120, which are technically black but come with replaceable coloured rings.
> 
> I guess I could get away with just black/blacks fans for Kraken G10 since nobody will actually be able to see them, but radiator fans definitely have to be black/white.
> 
> Heh. I know I am just being silly right now.


I also have a black/white/blue aesthetic going, and what I did in order to get the CM fans a little more uniform was use some white tape that I place over the fan motor's sticker. It ends up having a nice white/black contrast. I definitely sympathize with wanting color uniformity. The 92mm fans won't be visible at all, so go with whatever you want. Honestly, because your GPU has a built in heatsink and midplate, you could stick with the stock 92mm fans just fine and run them at full speed, they are quiet even at 1500rpm.

I also own some Dead Silence White/Black fans and I am going to urge you to stay away from them. Terrible motor noise, and whoever designed them, decided to have the LEDs running off of the same power as the fan, so if you try and run them below 70%, the LEDs flicker, which is really upsetting. Such a beautiful looking fan, but they have to be run at 70%+ if you want their aesthetic to shine true.


----------



## stickskillz

I am going to buy the Kraken G10 with a Zalman LQ-320. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118136&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo

I read good reviews for noise and strength for a 120mm AIO.

How do I set my side mounted fan to intake?

I am going to take the drive bays out of the front middle of the case. This is where I am going to put the Zalman LQ-320 AIO.

Do I put the AIO radiator in between the two fans in push pull? Why do I need a push/pull configuration? I thought I just wanted to push the air out of the case. Please explain. Sorry, I have never done this before. My dad will help me and he knows a lot about car radiators.

How do I set up 2 120mm fans in push/pull?

Do you have a 120mm fan that you would recommend for my project?


----------



## Exilon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Well, just finally installed the Kraken G10 with Kraken X31 AIO on my 980Ti. While playing a game, temps would reach about 50-55C, which is great! This is at stock speeds. It's an EVGA 980Ti SC+, with the ACX+ cooler removed (too noisy). Now it's nice and quiet and I get better temps too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a 25x25x1mm copper shim plate and it works just fine, makes good contact with the 980Ti core, in spite of the mid-plate. So no need to go for 1.5mm thick plates.


Have you tried without the mid plate and shim just to see how much thermal resistance the shim+paste adds?


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Have you tried without the mid plate and shim just to see how much thermal resistance the shim+paste adds?


Nope, too much work.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Have you tried without the mid plate and shim just to see how much thermal resistance the shim+paste adds?


It can't be much because I use a shim with my 780 SC, and I get incredible temperatures, I never hit 50C unless I use DSR. Even if the shim somehow added 5C, which I am positive it does not, the benefits of having the mid-plate to cool the VRMs is too good to miss out on.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickskillz*
> 
> I am going to buy the Kraken G10 with a Zalman LQ-320. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118136&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo
> 
> I read good reviews for noise and strength for a 120mm AIO.
> 
> How do I set my side mounted fan to intake?
> 
> I am going to take the drive bays out of the front middle of the case. This is where I am going to put the Zalman LQ-320 AIO.
> 
> Do I put the AIO radiator in between the two fans in push pull? Why do I need a push/pull configuration? I thought I just wanted to push the air out of the case. Please explain. Sorry, I have never done this before. My dad will help me and he knows a lot about car radiators.
> 
> How do I set up 2 120mm fans in push/pull?
> 
> Do you have a 120mm fan that you would recommend for my project?


To set the side fan to intake, you want to have it blowing into the chassis, not blowing out. You want air to be coming in.

If you are mounting the AIO to the front, make sure you set it to exhaust. You will be much better off in terms of airflow if you set it to rear exhaust, that way airflow won't be all over the place. The air that comes out of the radiator when attached to GPU is very hot, you don't want that air being blown into your chassis, you want it being blown out, away from your graphics card.


Hopefully this diagram explains push/pull to you. The fans are blowing in the same direction. One fan is blowing through the radiator in push, the other fan is pulling air through the radiator, in pull. Push/pull allows for lower temperatures, and lower noise. You are able to run the fans at a lower speed, while performing the same as if you had just one fan at a high speed.

If you need additional 120mm fans, I recommend the Cooler Master Blade Master 120s. They are inexpensive, and have a great static pressure, although they aren't the most quiet fans once you get into the higher RPMs. I keep mine at a constant 1250rpm, and it works great while being very quiet.


----------



## max883

Will this cool the mosfets and mem better than a referance cooler?. i have a 120.mm fann blow Direct on the mosfet and mem. And using a H55 on the core.


----------



## ayazam

so... this is my 2nd post here, aaand i got r9 290 with g10 & x40

*how it looks like*:
- heatsink taken down, look at that "plate" for vram and a heatsink for the VRM too

look at that lovely blue HIS's special heatsink color








no need to buy 'little heatsinks' its all covered from the iceqX2 cooler









- beefy cooler


- done installing !!!


no longer bolts needed







re tim'd with mx4,
for the bracket fan im using the standard 92mm, control it from 50-100%
for the rad fan im using SP140L, control it from 35-65%

- system is go !!!

a little overclocking 1050/1350 +0mv
room temp 27-30C; idling @ 45-47C; fullload @ 60-65C

its really quiet and cool too...







and that is the reason why im buying the g10


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ayazam*
> 
> so... this is my 2nd post here, aaand i got r9 290 with g10 & x40
> 
> *how it looks like*:
> - heatsink taken down, look at that "plate" for vram and a heatsink for the VRM too
> 
> look at that lovely blue HIS's special heatsink color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no need to buy 'little heatsinks' its all covered from the iceqX2 cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - beefy cooler
> 
> 
> - done installing !!!
> 
> 
> no longer bolts needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> re tim'd with mx4,
> for the bracket fan im using the standard 92mm, control it from 50-100%
> for the rad fan im using SP140L, control it from 35-65%
> 
> - system is go !!!
> 
> a little overclocking 1050/1350 +0mv
> room temp 27-30C; idling @ 45-47C; fullload @ 60-65C
> 
> its really quiet and cool too...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and that is the reason why im buying the g10


Do you have the GPU as a bottom intake or bottom exhaust?

I currently have mine as a bottom intake, but since I'm still air cooling my CPU, i'm contemplating have it as a bottom exhaust, since I don't want to blow hot air to my CPU cooler.


----------



## ayazam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Do you have the GPU as a bottom intake or bottom exhaust?
> 
> I currently have mine as a bottom intake, but since I'm still air cooling my CPU, i'm contemplating have it as a bottom exhaust, since I don't want to blow hot air to my CPU cooler.


as a bottom outtake, my case's airflow is totally negative pressure







im still trying to make the airflow positive

can you make your rad as a rear outtake? is it too tight with your d15?
or you can make it as a bottom outtake while occupy all the front intake fan mounts


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ayazam*
> 
> as a bottom outtake, my case's airflow is totally negative pressure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im still trying to make the airflow positive
> 
> can you make your rad as a rear outtake? is it too tight with your d15?
> or you can make it as a bottom outtake while occupy all the front intake fan mounts


I think that if I put it as a rear outtake, it'll be sucking in hot air from the CPU, again unnecessarily heating up the rad. Not sure what the best solution is. Might still give it a shot though. Either way, the tubes are too short to reach the top to function as exhaust.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *max883*
> 
> Will this cool the mosfets and mem better than a referance cooler?. i have a 120.mm fann blow Direct on the mosfet and mem. And using a H55 on the core.


Yes, I think it will cool better than reference cooler on the VRMs and core.


----------



## missalaire

So I'm trying to hold out for the MSI GTX 980 Ti Lightning, but I don't think I'll be able to hold out that long. I'll probably end up pulling the trigger on the MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G. I've already got a NZXT G10 lying around with a NZXT Kraken X41 cooler. Is there anything else I'd need to buy to cool the Gaming 6G?

MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G PCB:


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> So I'm trying to hold out for the MSI GTX 980 Ti Lightning, but I don't think I'll be able to hold out that long. I'll probably end up pulling the trigger on the MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G. I've already got a NZXT G10 lying around with a NZXT Kraken X41 cooler. Is there anything else I'd need to buy to cool the Gaming 6G?
> 
> MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G PCB:


I don't think so mate. That is one of, if not the most impressive stock heatsink design I have ever seen. Wow.

If you want to free up a motherboard fan header, maybe buy a VGA to PWM adapter. Other than that, a 2nd 140mm fan for push/pull.


----------



## missalaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I don't think so mate. That is one of, if not the most impressive stock heatsink design I have ever seen. Wow.
> 
> If you want to free up a motherboard fan header, maybe buy a VGA to PWM adapter. Other than that, a 2nd 140mm fan for push/pull.


So I don't need to buy any shims or whatever? Also, that's a mid plate right? Do I need to mess with it in order to use the G10 on it?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> So I don't need to buy any shims or whatever? Also, that's a mid plate right? Do I need to mess with it in order to use the G10 on it?


It looks like a hybrid mid-plate/heatsink kind of contraption. This is really ideal because the midplate, which does help with passive cooling, is placed over the VRAM which doesn't get very hot. Meanwhile, the VRMs are covered in an elaborate heatsink, which helps cool better than a plain midplate, and this part of the card needs more cooling because it is the VRMs which do get hot. Its a really nice design.

From the looks of it, no shim will be needed, the GPU die area is very open with no obstructions.


----------



## ayazam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> I think that if I put it as a rear outtake, it'll be sucking in hot air from the CPU, again unnecessarily heating up the rad. Not sure what the best solution is. Might still give it a shot though. Either way, the tubes are too short to reach the top to function as exhaust.


ah yeah, another hot air again for either the hsf or the rad. i think its better to separate the airflow for rad and the hsf
your case is kinda huge, i dont expect the x31 tubes will reach the rear mount


----------



## Mnemo05

is the x31 good enough for a 980?

I am currently using an Antec 920 but will have to change it since the tubes wont go parallel to the pump(the screw securing the barb is on the way)

I cant do SLI unless the tubes will go lower or within the pump height

will there be a big difference between the two?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> is the x31 good enough for a 980?
> 
> I am currently using an Antec 920 but will have to change it since the tubes wont go parallel to the pump(the screw securing the barb is on the way)
> 
> I cant do SLI unless the tubes will go lower or within the pump height
> 
> will there be a big difference between the two?


Yup the X31 will be good enough for a 980. Virtually no difference in performance between 120mm rads.


----------



## valkatian

Been running the g10 with the 7870xt for almost a quarter year now. Best thing I love about it is the ability to pop it off and onto another card, which I will be doing soon. An r9 290 will soon make it's way into my system and it'll receive the same h55+g10 setup, but with additional gelid vrm cooling kit thrown in to protect the vrms. Now if kraken could go ahead and test their g10 with the newer 300 series, I'm sure many would jump for it as well.

I'm loving the kraken thus far.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkatian*
> 
> Been running the g10 with the 7870xt for almost a quarter year now. Best thing I love about it is the ability to pop it off and onto another card, which I will be doing soon. An r9 290 will soon make it's way into my system and it'll receive the same h55+g10 setup, but with additional gelid vrm cooling kit thrown in to protect the vrms. Now if kraken could go ahead and test their g10 with the newer 300 series, I'm sure many would jump for it as well.
> 
> I'm loving the kraken thus far.


Agreed, ive had the same setup on SLi 770s, SLi 970s and now SLi 980s.


----------



## DapperDan795

Anyone know if a reference EVGA SC 980 has a midplate? From what I've read the past few pages is midplate = shim ; no midplate = no shim, correct? I would prefer to have a midplate instead of using little heatsinks.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DapperDan795*
> 
> Anyone know if a reference EVGA SC 980 has a midplate? From what I've read the past few pages is midplate = shim ; no midplate = no shim, correct? I would prefer to have a midplate instead of using little heatsinks.


I do not think the reference 980 comes with a mid-plate, but as always, if you could take a picture of your PCB, that would be best.

Adding your own thermal pads and heatsinks is not that difficult, and its inexpensive.


----------



## DapperDan795

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I do not think the reference 980 comes with a mid-plate, but as always, if you could take a picture of your PCB, that would be best.
> 
> Adding your own thermal pads and heatsinks is not that difficult, and its inexpensive.


I think you're right Pinko. I checked cooling configuration on EK's site and it shows a naked pcb. It wasn't so much about the cost of the heatsinks or difficulty but aesthetics. Maybe I've seen some people doing it wrong but I didn't like the idea of a bunch of little heatsinks hanging off my card out in the open. Again, maybe I've just looked at other folks doing it wrong. I've been going back and forth on this mod and traditional WC for a while now but with a baby coming next week I think i will finally have to accept the idea that traditional WC is going to be out of the question financially. I'm interested to see how the Corsair N980 will compare considering I do have a reference model. Pinko, thanks again bud. You are a huge help to this thread


----------



## sakai4eva

Guys, does the reference 980 ti fit without modifications?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakai4eva*
> 
> Guys, does the reference 980 ti fit without modifications?


The G10 should fit a reference 980Ti without problems.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The G10 should fit a reference 980Ti without problems.


Yes. This has been confirmed by NZXT.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DapperDan795*
> 
> I think you're right Pinko. I checked cooling configuration on EK's site and it shows a naked pcb. It wasn't so much about the cost of the heatsinks or difficulty but aesthetics. Maybe I've seen some people doing it wrong but I didn't like the idea of a bunch of little heatsinks hanging off my card out in the open. Again, maybe I've just looked at other folks doing it wrong. I've been going back and forth on this mod and traditional WC for a while now but with a baby coming next week I think i will finally have to accept the idea that traditional WC is going to be out of the question financially. I'm interested to see how the Corsair N980 will compare considering I do have a reference model. Pinko, thanks again bud. You are a huge help to this thread


Thanks dude, I appreciate it =)

EK's website is a good website because it shows the naked PCB, but at the same time, they will always show the card as naked, even if there is something like a midplate, EK won't show it because they are assuming the midplate will be removed in order for a waterblock to be added.

Is this the card you are talking about? EVGA GTX 980 SC Reference. In the past, these reference design cards do come naked, it is only the EVGA cards with ACX Coolers that have built in midplates. You can always take off the cooler and see for yourself if you are unsure.

Even if it doesn't come with a midplate, adding your own heatsinks shouldn't be an issue of aesthetics because the VRMs are the only part of the card that needs to be heatsinked, and the VRMs won't be visible because the fan will be covering it, and it will be from an angle.

Option 1 is the thermal pad kit I recommend because it is inexpensive, and you get a lot of material. It does take a few weeks to deliver, so you can go with option 2, although it is more expensive, and gives you less material to work with. What you are looking for in a thermal pad is double sided adhesive, and electrically non-conductive .5mm to 1.5mm thick.
Option1: http://www.amazon.com/Generic-15x15x1mm-Conductive-Heatsink-Northbridge/dp/B00EQ23OQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426991128&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+pad+GPU
Option2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004230RUO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

The aluminum heatsinks I recommend are Cosmos. They are inexpensive, very low profile, and comes with 20 pieces. They do have their own thermal tape pre-applied. You will want to remove that tape before attaching them to the thermal pads. Do not place these heatsinks with thermal tape directly onto circuitry.

The last extra I recommend is the VGA to PWM adapter. Its just so that you can plug the 92mm fan directly into the GPU, which frees up a fan header.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions! I do think the Corsair N980 will work well, but be aware that it is card specific, so if you upgrade, you won't be able to move that bracket onto a different card like you would with the G10.


----------



## DapperDan795

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Thanks dude, I appreciate it =)
> 
> EK's website is a good website because it shows the naked PCB, but at the same time, they will always show the card as naked, even if there is something like a midplate, EK won't show it because they are assuming the midplate will be removed in order for a waterblock to be added.
> 
> Is this the card you are talking about? EVGA GTX 980 SC Reference. In the past, these reference design cards do come naked, it is only the EVGA cards with ACX Coolers that have built in midplates. You can always take off the cooler and see for yourself if you are unsure.
> 
> Even if it doesn't come with a midplate, adding your own heatsinks shouldn't be an issue of aesthetics because the VRMs are the only part of the card that needs to be heatsinked, and the VRMs won't be visible because the fan will be covering it, and it will be from an angle.
> 
> Option 1 is the thermal pad kit I recommend because it is inexpensive, and you get a lot of material. It does take a few weeks to deliver, so you can go with option 2, although it is more expensive, and gives you less material to work with. What you are looking for in a thermal pad is double sided adhesive, and electrically non-conductive .5mm to 1.5mm thick.
> Option1: http://www.amazon.com/Generic-15x15x1mm-Conductive-Heatsink-Northbridge/dp/B00EQ23OQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426991128&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+pad+GPU
> Option2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004230RUO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
> 
> The aluminum heatsinks I recommend are Cosmos. They are inexpensive, very low profile, and comes with 20 pieces. They do have their own thermal tape pre-applied. You will want to remove that tape before attaching them to the thermal pads. Do not place these heatsinks with thermal tape directly onto circuitry.
> 
> The last extra I recommend is the VGA to PWM adapter. Its just so that you can plug the 92mm fan directly into the GPU, which frees up a fan header.
> 
> Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions! I do think the Corsair N980 will work well, but be aware that it is card specific, so if you upgrade, you won't be able to move that bracket onto a different card like you would with the G10.


It sure did help! Super detailed info for sure. Option #2 would be just fine, $10 won't break the bank. I will see what's up with the N980 reviews then decide between the two. You of course do have a good point about the card specific feature of the N980.

Edit: This is my card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487068&cm_re=evga_2982-_-14-487-068-_-Product

+rep


----------



## sakai4eva

Damnit!

They should have updated the compatibility list on their site then.

I was so worried and sceptical


----------



## sakete

So after relocating the X31 to the top of my case as a top exhaust I'm getting temps that are in the 60-65C range on my 980Ti (not overclocked). Normal? Water temp is also above 60C.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> So after relocating the X31 to the top of my case as a top exhaust I'm getting temps that are in the 60-65C range on my 980Ti (not overclocked). Normal? Water temp is also above 60C.


Its not bad, but its maybe a little higher than normal.

What is your ambient?
What case do you have?
How many fans on the radiator?
-What speed?
What speed is the pump at?


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

so - Asus GTX970 DC Mini - all Kraken'd up.






was surprisingly easy to do. i forgot to take photos of the backplate mounted on the card. i removed the foam pad entirely and did not put the holding nuts on the screws, which let the kraken backplate sit flush with the card backplate. used Alphacool 1mm thermal tape to mount my heatsinks (VRM and voltage regulator), which are Alphacool 15mm black sinks and other generic 10mm heatsinks (plain alum). i didnt account for the 15mm being too big to fit in between the taller pcb components but no probs there.

Rad fan is plugged into the GPU fan header with adapter for control through AB - which caused me some issues - as the stock fan spins to 4000rpm my curve tops out at 31% (about 1100rpm) as thats all i need - so controllable range is 26-31%. fan is a Noctua iPPC 2000rpm PWM.

OC up to 1214/1814 (1413 max boost) which was what the stock cooler could manage before i got irritated by it spinning up (tbh it was very quiet and less noisy than many full-length cards ive had)

temps:
ambient = 16-18C
Core Idle = 20-22C
Core Load = 58C max (measured during 2h of Far Cry 4 at 1200p max settings).

very happy.


----------



## Vagrancy

Hello,

I just want to make sure this will work for my setup since the NZXT compatibility tool states it won't.

I've got an EVGA 980Ti ACX 2.0+ (06G-P4-4991-KR) - EVGA Reference and since the hybrid cooler evga sells doesn't work with this cooler I'm looking at doing the G10.

I'd like to use the Kraken G10 + Corsair H75 (CW-9060015-WW). Would this work?

Thanks!

I've currently got a Corsair H105 for my i7 4790k on the top of my case in the 350D. I Had to offset the radiator due to it not being technically compatible but it fit none the less. The H75 would go on the back of the case. Alternatively if a larger radiator like another h105 is needed I could put it on the front.


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Its not bad, but its maybe a little higher than normal.
> 
> What is your ambient?
> What case do you have?
> How many fans on the radiator?
> -What speed?
> What speed is the pump at?


Ambient last night was about 28C. I'm using a Corsair 750D case with two 140mm intake fans on the front, a 120mm intake on the bottom and a 140mm rear exhaust fan. There is just one fan on the radiator, the stock fan that came with the X31. I think the fan was operating at 75% speed at the time (I have it on the silent profile in the CAM software) and have it in a push configuration, where it's pushing air through the radiator out of my case (have it as a top exhaust, above the Noctua NH-D15 heatsink. No other place to put it up top). Not sure what the pump speed was.


----------



## Mnemo05

wow I know the 980ti is a hot card but I was not expecting a mid 60c temp with a kraken installed.. I guess a thicker rad aio such as an antec 920 will fair better..

I wonder if a shim is really required for a 980ti, has anyone tried not using a shim whether it is possible?

im not a fan of shims, ahahaha!


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> wow I know the 980ti is a hot card but I was not expecting a mid 60c temp with a kraken installed.. I guess a thicker rad aio such as an antec 920 will fair better..
> 
> I wonder if a shim is really required for a 980ti, has anyone tried not using a shim whether it is possible?
> 
> im not a fan of shims, ahahaha!


A shim is only necessary because my EVGA 980 Ti SC+ ACX2.0+ has a mid-plate which prevents the water block from making contact with the GPU core. If your card doesn't have a mid-plate, you won't need a shim.


----------



## Mnemo05

I have seen some stock cooled 980ti with their midplates, looks like they have some weird standoffs that may prevent you from installing a g10 on them.. the MSI card looks nice although the card is a bit taller than the stock pcbs..

I hope to keep the midplate when using a g10 to keep the vram and vrm cooled, similar to what I have now (980) and my old card(580) both card I used were using stock pcb design though..


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I just want to make sure this will work for my setup since the NZXT compatibility tool states it won't.
> 
> I've got an EVGA 980Ti ACX 2.0+ (06G-P4-4991-KR) - EVGA Reference and since the hybrid cooler evga sells doesn't work with this cooler I'm looking at doing the G10.
> 
> I'd like to use the Kraken G10 + Corsair H75 (CW-9060015-WW). Would this work?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I've currently got a Corsair H105 for my i7 4790k on the top of my case in the 350D. I Had to offset the radiator due to it not being technically compatible but it fit none the less. The H75 would go on the back of the case. Alternatively if a larger radiator like another h105 is needed I could put it on the front.


Yes it will work, but in order for it to work, you will need to buy a copper shim. 25mm x 25mm x 1mm or 20mm x 20mm x 1mm. Mount the H75 as rear exhaust! You will need to apply thermal paste to both sides of the shim.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Ambient last night was about 28C. I'm using a Corsair 750D case with two 140mm intake fans on the front, a 120mm intake on the bottom and a 140mm rear exhaust fan. There is just one fan on the radiator, the stock fan that came with the X31. I think the fan was operating at 75% speed at the time (I have it on the silent profile in the CAM software) and have it in a push configuration, where it's pushing air through the radiator out of my case (have it as a top exhaust, above the Noctua NH-D15 heatsink. No other place to put it up top). Not sure what the pump speed was.


Ahh ok, its your ambient temp that is why you are experiencing higher than normal temps. If you can add a 2nd 120mm fan for push/pull, that should shave an additional 3-5C off those temps. Overall, based on ambient, those temps are normal.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> so - Asus GTX970 DC Mini - all Kraken'd up.
> 
> was surprisingly easy to do. i forgot to take photos of the backplate mounted on the card. i removed the foam pad entirely and did not put the holding nuts on the screws, which let the kraken backplate sit flush with the card backplate. used Alphacool 1mm thermal tape to mount my heatsinks (VRM and voltage regulator), which are Alphacool 15mm black sinks and other generic 10mm heatsinks (plain alum). i didnt account for the 15mm being too big to fit in between the taller pcb components but no probs there.
> 
> Rad fan is plugged into the GPU fan header with adapter for control through AB - which caused me some issues - as the stock fan spins to 4000rpm my curve tops out at 31% (about 1100rpm) as thats all i need - so controllable range is 26-31%. fan is a Noctua iPPC 2000rpm PWM.
> 
> OC up to 1214/1814 (1413 max boost) which was what the stock cooler could manage before i got irritated by it spinning up (tbh it was very quiet and less noisy than many full-length cards ive had)
> 
> temps:
> ambient = 16-18C
> Core Idle = 20-22C
> Core Load = 58C max (measured during 2h of Far Cry 4 at 1200p max settings).
> 
> very happy.


Very nice! Another mini card with the G10, just takes a little bit on ingenuity. I hope you have some kind of airflow over the VRMs? Leaving them passively cooled just by thermal pads and heatsinks probably isn't enough. Even though your core temps are good, you should get some airflow over the VRMs if you haven't already.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> I have seen some stock cooled 980ti with their midplates, looks like they have some weird standoffs that may prevent you from installing a g10 on them.. the MSI card looks nice although the card is a bit taller than the stock pcbs..
> 
> I hope to keep the midplate when using a g10 to keep the vram and vrm cooled, similar to what I have now (980) and my old card(580) both card I used were using stock pcb design though..


I think it really depends on a card by card basis.

I think his 60C temps have a lot more to do with his high ambient temps than anything else. Other variables like thermal paste used, # of radiator fans, quality of fan, speed of fan, speed of pump also play a part. It could just be 1C here and there, but it quickly adds up.

You definitely want to keep the mid plate, but that does mean using a shim. Or, you can remove the mid plate and mod it so that the 4 prongs that extend towards the GPU are removed, but this voids your warranty. Much easier to buy a $5 copper shim, and keep the passive VRM cooling than to void your warranty.

I use a shim with my EVGA GTX 780 SC, and it works marvelously. The 780 has the same TDP as the 980Ti.


----------



## Vagrancy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yes it will work, but in order for it to work, you will need to buy a copper shim. 25mm x 25mm x 1mm or 20mm x 20mm x 1mm. Mount the H75 as rear exhaust! You will need to apply thermal paste to both sides of the shim.


Awesome thanks for the help. should I do with a specific size shim from the two you've listed or does it not really matter that much? Just curious if the larger size one if the preferred. Also you would recommend I use the same heatsinks you've been linking the aluminum ones? I saw you referencing them a few pages back.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> Awesome thanks for the help. should I do with a specific size shim from the two you've listed or does it not really matter that much? Just curious if the larger size one if the preferred. Also you would recommend I use the same heatsinks you've been linking the aluminum ones? I saw you referencing them a few pages back.


The 25mm x 25mm x 1mm should work better because it is more surface area, but if you can only find 20mm x 20mm, its not the end of the world. You generally have to order the shim from eBay/Amazon and its sourced from Asia, so order it now. Or, if you can find a metal shop local, ask them to make you a copper shim in those specifications, just make sure that they smooth and lap is very well. You will need to buy your own thermal paste to apply on both sides of the shim. I recommend Gelid GC Extreme, but there are other, less expensive TIMs out there. Noctua NT-H1, MX-4, IC Diamond, Prolimatech PK3 to name a few.

Yes, the aluminum heatsinks are the ones I personally use and recommend. Because you have an EVGA model card with a built in mid-plate, you can install these heatsinks directly onto the midplate using the pre-applied thermal tape. This is optional because the midplate already does an excellent job of cooling the VRMs, but a little extra peace of mind for $7 doesn't hurt anyone.


----------



## Vagrancy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The 25mm x 25mm x 1mm should work better because it is more surface area, but if you can only find 20mm x 20mm, its not the end of the world. You generally have to order the shim from eBay/Amazon and its sourced from Asia, so order it now. Or, if you can find a metal shop local, ask them to make you a copper shim in those specifications, just make sure that they smooth and lap is very well. You will need to buy your own thermal paste to apply on both sides of the shim. I recommend Gelid GC Extreme, but there are other, less expensive TIMs out there. Noctua NT-H1, MX-4, IC Diamond, Prolimatech PK3 to name a few.
> 
> Yes, the aluminum heatsinks are the ones I personally use and recommend. Because you have an EVGA model card with a built in mid-plate, you can install these heatsinks directly onto the midplate using the pre-applied thermal tape. This is optional because the midplate already does an excellent job of cooling the VRMs, but a little extra peace of mind for $7 doesn't hurt anyone.


Thanks yeah it seems Amazon doesn't have the 25x25x1 but there are a few on ebay all from China so i guess I'll order some now. I got my shopping list together from Amazon so I'll probably get everything ordered here in the next few days. The 980Ti with ACX isnt' bad but even with my custom fan curve in MSI afterburner the thing runs pretty hot even with a mild overclock so I wanna bring it down.

I'm not really into doing/paying for a full custom water loop system so this will be the next best thing.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> Thanks yeah it seems Amazon doesn't have the 25x25x1 but there are a few on ebay all from China so i guess I'll order some now. I got my shopping list together from Amazon so I'll probably get everything ordered here in the next few days. The 980Ti with ACX isnt' bad but even with my custom fan curve in MSI afterburner the thing runs pretty hot even with a mild overclock so I wanna bring it down.
> 
> I'm not really into doing/paying for a full custom water loop system so this will be the next best thing.


Definitely order those shims now so that you aren't waiting forever. I find that when I order stuff from China to the U.S. it usually takes 2-3 weeks, then sometimes I am pleasantly surprised and it arrives sooner than anticipated.

The G10 really is, and especially with the cards that have built in heatsinks over the VRMs, you are getting 80% of the performance of a custom loop for a fraction of the cost, plus, it is transferable to future cards.


----------



## zorvalth

Which are the GTX 970s cards which has right vrms? The only one i found is Galax/KFA2 EXOC Black edition, any others?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Which are the GTX 970s cards which has right vrms? The only one i found is Galax/KFA2 EXOC Black edition, any others?


I think there might be a Zotac one out there. 970s with right VRMs are very rare unfortunately, and usually cost closer to $400 than $300.


----------



## zorvalth

And I guess installing G10 on a card with left vrm and leaving it without supporting fan and just heatsink is not a good idea? Especially if overclocking...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Especially if overclocking...


Especially


----------



## zorvalth

Ok, at least I found another card with right VRM. Its here in Europe only i think and i'm not sure this card needs watercooling, because the air cooler is 3 slots beast...

http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=124
http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=156
http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=186

There is even a version with Hybrid: http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=188


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Ok, at least I found another card with right VRM. Its here in Europe only i think and i'm not sure this card needs watercooling, because the air cooler is 3 slots beast...
> 
> http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=124
> http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=156
> http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=186
> 
> There is even a version with Hybrid: http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=188


Yea, leaving the VRMs without airflow is a no-no. There are products out there such as the Antec Spot Cool which would allow you to get some directional airflow over the left VRMs if you want.

All of those inno3d are good options with very well built heatsinks. The thing is, how much are they? Because if they are ~$400, and you are going to spend another $100 doing the G10 mod, you might as well just buy a 980, at least that is the way I see it.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very nice! Another mini card with the G10, just takes a little bit on ingenuity. I hope you have some kind of airflow over the VRMs? Leaving them passively cooled just by thermal pads and heatsinks probably isn't enough. Even though your core temps are good, you should get some airflow over the VRMs if you haven't already.


calm your farm everyone, my VRM's have airflow - forgot to mention it.

this card is setup in an Ncase M1 - so it has 2x 120mm NB B12-2 fans blowing air at them from the bottom of the case. the same setup i had for my R9 290 with the G10 on it, and my VRM1 (left side) stayed nice and cool with a tiny heatsink on them - from what i remember VRM1 (the hottest VRM from the 290) didnt go above about 70C, and id be surprised if the VRM on the 970 are running this hot.

ill post another pic of the card in situ to show the setup.

also im pretty sure im gunna redo the g10 placement and cut the fan mount of the bracket off, as it takes a lot of room in the case for no benefit - if needed ill just buy another G10 if i get a long card in future.


----------



## orlandomagik

How do I check my VRM temps? EVGA 980ti. Thanks!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlandomagik*
> 
> How do I check my VRM temps? EVGA 980ti. Thanks!


You won't be able to on that card. Only specific Nvidia cards have VRM sensors, which is really unfortunate. I think the EVGA KINPIN, Asus Matrix, and MSI Lightning are some of the only cards that have VRM temp sensors. If there are more, someone please mention them.

Most AMD cards have these VRM temp sensors.

It should be viewable in GPU-Z if you do have these sensors.


----------



## orlandomagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You won't be able to on that card. Only specific Nvidia cards have VRM sensors, which is really unfortunate. I think the EVGA KINPIN, Asus Matrix, and MSI Lightning are some of the only cards that have VRM temp sensors. If there are more, someone please mention them.
> 
> Most AMD cards have these VRM temp sensors.
> 
> It should be viewable in GPU-Z if you do have these sensors.


If you don't have the sensor then what?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlandomagik*
> 
> If you don't have the sensor then what?


I use an NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller that has an external temperature probe. I placed it carefully between the mid plate and the VRMs.



You could also buy an infrared temp sensor, they are cheap at like $10-$15 on Amazon.


----------



## missalaire

My MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G should be here by next Weds. Can't wait to get it and slap my G10 + X41 on it


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> calm your farm everyone, my VRM's have airflow - forgot to mention it.
> 
> this card is setup in an Ncase M1 - so it has 2x 120mm NB B12-2 fans blowing air at them from the bottom of the case. the same setup i had for my R9 290 with the G10 on it, and my VRM1 (left side) stayed nice and cool with a tiny heatsink on them - from what i remember VRM1 (the hottest VRM from the 290) didnt go above about 70C, and id be surprised if the VRM on the 970 are running this hot.
> 
> ill post another pic of the card in situ to show the setup.
> 
> also im pretty sure im gunna redo the g10 placement and cut the fan mount of the bracket off, as it takes a lot of room in the case for no benefit - if needed ill just buy another G10 if i get a long card in future.


Pretty Nice G10 mod! Congratulations!!

I really want to pass the 2 hosepipes through the FAN hole (I have an ITX card too).
My pipes looks like "fusilli"

But I already installed the G10 and I don't want to remove the Pump. You can't do that without removing the pump right? (I mean, I assume you can't detach AIO's pipes from the Pump or the radiator, at least not without loosing the warranty)


----------



## Mnemo05

@missalaire

I have my eye on that same card at the moment, the PCB design and the midplate looks great

Update us whether a shim is required when installing the G10, thanks in advance!


----------



## pullablank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Which are the GTX 970s cards which has right vrms? The only one i found is Galax/KFA2 EXOC Black edition, any others?


I have the ZOTAC GTX 970 AMP! Omega Core Edition with the Kraken G10 and Corsair H55 and it works _beautifully_. It's packed inside the tiny Ncase M1, and I live in ridiculously hot South Florida. Still, I have low 30s at idle, and even with a 100mhz+ OC, it never breaks 65 after playing Witcher 3 for hours and hours and hours. When I'm playing less intense games (TF2, CS:GO, etc.), it barely breaks 50 and my FPS/performance is off the charts. So if you don't overclock, or have a case with better airflow, or live in a cooler climate, your results will likely be even better than mine.

Also, The 970 AMP! Omega Core Edition had a wonderful backplate, midplate and heatsink covering the VRMs. I took Pinko's advice and got the VGA fan cable adapter and connected the G10's fan to the video card. This way I can control it directly from the ZOTAC Firestorm software. I never let the G10's fan go below 90%. I really could not be any happier with the results.


----------



## DrGroove

Regarding Nvidia cards, are there any companies that will honor warranty if you remove the cooler? I've also read about the 980 ti VRM temps and was wondering if anyone put heatsinks on the back of your VRM? Do I need a copper shim with the 980 ti?


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Pretty Nice G10 mod! Congratulations!!
> 
> I really want to pass the 2 hosepipes through the FAN hole (I have an ITX card too).
> My pipes looks like "fusilli"
> 
> But I already installed the G10 and I don't want to remove the Pump. You can't do that without removing the pump right? (I mean, I assume you can't detach AIO's pipes from the Pump or the radiator, at least not without loosing the warranty)


yeh i actually regret passing the hoses through the fan hole - just awkward in my case.

im pretty sure ill end up modding the g10 bracket with a dremel - ill cut the fan mount away to take the large side portion off and leave the pump side fan mount holes intact so i can mount a fan if needed later on. it will give me heaps more room jn the case. ill post pics when its done.


----------



## Stephen88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Ok, at least I found another card with right VRM. Its here in Europe only i think and i'm not sure this card needs watercooling, because the air cooler is 3 slots beast...
> 
> http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=124
> http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=156
> http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=186
> 
> There is even a version with Hybrid: http://www.inno3d.com/products_detail.php?refid=188


buy the Galax/kfa2 it's the more cheapest and have a good power phase and OC out of the box


----------



## zorvalth

I found this kit which i think will make perfect companion to g10 and left vrms.

www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=987&page=1


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pullablank*
> 
> I have the ZOTAC GTX 970 AMP! Omega Core Edition with the Kraken G10 and Corsair H55 and it works _beautifully_. It's packed inside the tiny Ncase M1, and I live in ridiculously hot South Florida. Still, I have low 30s at idle, and even with a 100mhz+ OC, it never breaks 65 after playing Witcher 3 for hours and hours and hours. When I'm playing less intense games (TF2, CS:GO, etc.), it barely breaks 50 and my FPS/performance is off the charts. So if you don't overclock, or have a case with better airflow, or live in a cooler climate, your results will likely be even better than mine.
> 
> Also, The 970 AMP! Omega Core Edition had a wonderful backplate, midplate and heatsink covering the VRMs. I took Pinko's advice and got the VGA fan cable adapter and connected the G10's fan to the video card. This way I can control it directly from the ZOTAC Firestorm software. I never let the G10's fan go below 90%. I really could not be any happier with the results.


Do you have vrm temperature sensors on your card?


----------



## mstrmind5

I have the EVGA 970 FTW+ and I hate the sound and noise of the fans provided. Looking at ways to quieten it down, was hoping if the g10 and something like the h55 would do the job. My only concern is that g10 might not fit onto the board design of the evga 970 ftw+, especially concerning the vrm cooling.

Any owners of the ftw+ or even the evga 970 ssc, who have done this and post temps/fan speeds and could show me with photos the outcome?

Thanks.


----------



## pullablank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Do you have vrm temperature sensors on your card?


Negative.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrGroove*
> 
> Regarding Nvidia cards, are there any companies that will honor warranty if you remove the cooler? I've also read about the 980 ti VRM temps and was wondering if anyone put heatsinks on the back of your VRM? Do I need a copper shim with the 980 ti?


EVGA continues to honor the warranty even when you remove the cooler. Just make sure that you keep everything that was associated with the stock design of the card, because if you have to send it back for RMA, it must be returned to them exactly as you received it.

The VRM temps really depend on a card by card basis. The EVGA 980Ti w/ ACX Cooler has a very nice built in heatsink/midplate, but will require a 25mm x 25mm x 1mm copper shim. I have an EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler. The built in midplate/heatsink is excellent, and adding a copper shim hasn't hurt performance at all. You will have to buy your own thermal paste if you don't already own some. Adding heatsinks isn't necessary at all for this card.

If you are looking into a 980Ti to specifically mod with the G10, I would definitely go for the EVGA 980Ti w/ ACX Cooler because of their customer service, warranty, and physical design of the card.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> I have the EVGA 970 FTW+ and I hate the sound and noise of the fans provided. Looking at ways to quieten it down, was hoping if the g10 and something like the h55 would do the job. My only concern is that g10 might not fit onto the board design of the evga 970 ftw+, especially concerning the vrm cooling.
> 
> Any owners of the ftw+ or even the evga 970 ssc, who have done this and post temps/fan speeds and could show me with photos the outcome?
> 
> Thanks.


The G10 will fit, but the main obstacle will be getting airflow over the VRMs. Most 970 cards, including yours, have VRMs on the left side of the GPU die, whereas the G10 was designed with right VRMs in mind.

In order to get airflow over the left VRMs, you will need to buy something like an Antec Spot Cool, or some other kind of airflow device. Lots of people do this with their 970s and have great success, its just not as simple as those right VRM cards.

Low temps and low noise should definitely accompany a switch to G10.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> I found this kit which i think will make perfect companion to g10 and left vrms.
> 
> www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=987&page=1


Yea, thats not a bad product at all. Maybe kinda overbuilt and expensive because you will need to provide your own fans.

I recommend the Antec Spot Cool because it is inexpensive, and allows you to get very focused airflow on the areas that you need.


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The G10 will fit, but the main obstacle will be getting airflow over the VRMs. Most 970 cards, including yours, have VRMs on the left side of the GPU die, whereas the G10 was designed with right VRMs in mind.
> 
> In order to get airflow over the left VRMs, you will need to buy something like an Antec Spot Cool, or some other kind of airflow device. Lots of people do this with their 970s and have great success, its just not as simple as those right VRM cards.
> 
> Low temps and low noise should definitely accompany a switch to G10.


What do you think of these two options.

1. In thoery could I just use an AIO like the H55 mounted directly onto the board with this bracket attached below http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=987&page=1 and add fans onto the bracket to blow onto cooling plate? 

2. Would there be a way to just remove just the plastic fan and shroud but leave the metal cooler attached to the board, with the aforementioned bracket positioned just below blowing cooler air onto the fins and pipes, essentially a mod job or replacing the fans with my own?


----------



## guppysb

Hey Guys,

Here's the hardware I bought:
Sapphire R9 290x : http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Version-PCI-Express-Graphics-11226-16-20G/dp/B00UWPH2AO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1435425226&sr=8-5&keywords=sapphire+r9+290x

NZXT Kraken G10 bracket: http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Kraken-Mounting-KRG10-R1/dp/B00JV3WUK0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1435425265&sr=8-3&keywords=kraken+g10

Corsair H55: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler-CW-9060010-WW/dp/B009VV56TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435425282&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+h55

Corsair AF120 fans: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1435425427&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair+120mm

Before applying the Corsair H55 and the NZXT on the 290x:
Max temp: 94 C
Idle temp: 53 C

After applying the Corsair H55 and the NZXT on the 290x:
Max temp: 94 C
Idle temp: 46 C

The only thing I've managed to change is the idle temp, which isn't that helpful for me. Has anyone else experienced a similar problem? Even my VRM 1 and 2 don't exceed 90 C. Seems like I've wasted my money on a liquid cooling setup for the 290x.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> What do you think of these two options.
> 
> 1. In thoery could I just use an AIO like the H55 mounted directly onto the board with this bracket attached below http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=987&page=1 and add fans onto the bracket to blow onto cooling plate?
> 
> 2. Would there be a way to just remove just the plastic fan and shroud but leave the metal cooler attached to the board, with the aforementioned bracket positioned just below blowing cooler air onto the fins and pipes, essentially a mod job or replacing the fans with my own?


You could go with option #1, that should work well to keep the VRM nice and cool. Cost might be high because you have to buy that bracket + fans.

Option #2 I'm not sure if I fully understand what you are proposing. But from the sound of it, and how I understand it, it doesn't sound like it will work. The only thing you need to do is get airflow over the left side of the GPU. Adding an 80 or 92mm fan and propping it up so that it blows against the left side will be the easiest thing to do I think, and you will have a spare 92mm fan because of the G10 bracket.

Also, that picture is of the EVGA GTX 970 SSC, and I think you said you have a FTW 970? I think the PCB and layout is diferent.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Here's the hardware I bought:
> Sapphire R9 290x : http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Version-PCI-Express-Graphics-11226-16-20G/dp/B00UWPH2AO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1435425226&sr=8-5&keywords=sapphire+r9+290x
> 
> NZXT Kraken G10 bracket: http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Kraken-Mounting-KRG10-R1/dp/B00JV3WUK0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1435425265&sr=8-3&keywords=kraken+g10
> 
> Corsair H55: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler-CW-9060010-WW/dp/B009VV56TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435425282&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+h55
> 
> Corsair AF120 fans: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1435425427&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair+120mm
> 
> Before applying the Corsair H55 and the NZXT on the 290x:
> Max temp: 94 C
> Idle temp: 53 C
> 
> After applying the Corsair H55 and the NZXT on the 290x:
> Max temp: 94 C
> Idle temp: 46 C
> 
> The only thing I've managed to change is the idle temp, which isn't that helpful for me. Has anyone else experienced a similar problem? Even my VRM 1 and 2 don't exceed 90 C. Seems like I've wasted my money on a liquid cooling setup for the 290x.


Chances are you haven't tightened the cooler down enough. Try tightening the block down more. Be careful so you don't overtighten and the PCB bends, but you likely need to tighten it down more as that is the most common issue with high temps and the G10 bracket. Tighten in a diamond pattern.

Also check to make sure that the H55 pump is running at full speed, that the radiator fans are running at a decent speed, and the G10's 92mm fan is running at full speed.

AF fans aren't ideal for radiators, you really need Static Pressure(SP) fans. You can either return the AF fans, or use the included H55 fan in push, and the AF fan in pull.

Lastly for the VRM temps, you should consider buying a Gelid R9 290 VRM Heatsink Kit. That should reduce VRM temps into the 60s and 70s.

What is your ambient temperature?


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You could go with option #1, that should work well to keep the VRM nice and cool. Cost might be high because you have to buy that bracket + fans.
> 
> Option #2 I'm not sure if I fully understand what you are proposing. But from the sound of it, and how I understand it, it doesn't sound like it will work. The only thing you need to do is get airflow over the left side of the GPU. Adding an 80 or 92mm fan and propping it up so that it blows against the left side will be the easiest thing to do I think, and you will have a spare 92mm fan because of the G10 bracket.
> 
> Also, that picture is of the EVGA GTX 970 SSC, and I think you said you have a FTW 970? I think the PCB and layout is diferent.


My FTW+ is exactly the same design as the SSC with the excpetion of higher clocks and the inclusion of a backplate.

With option 2 my proposal is to remove the plastic shroud from the metal fin array and pipes and re-attach the metal fin array and pipes back onto the board if it's possible - minus the plastic shroud that contains the fans. Then place the separate bracket with say two 120mm fans directly below the metal fins and pipe array. In essence the bracket and fans would act as a reaplcement for the stock plastic shroud and fans.

A third variation on this could be to try to possibly clip the fans onto the metal fin array directly, or instead get the prolimatech mk-26 if it's compatible and clip the fans onto that.

These options are cheaper alternatives than getting an AIO cooler.

What type of 120mm fans should I be looking at? I like low noise, so am tempted be the be quiet siletwings 2, but what stats regarding cfm (air flow) and mm/H2O (static pressure) are necessary to cool the gpu?


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Chances are you haven't tightened the cooler down enough. Try tightening the block down more. Be careful so you don't overtighten and the PCB bends, but you likely need to tighten it down more as that is the most common issue with high temps and the G10 bracket. Tighten in a diamond pattern.
> 
> Also check to make sure that the H55 pump is running at full speed, that the radiator fans are running at a decent speed, and the G10's 92mm fan is running at full speed.
> 
> AF fans aren't ideal for radiators, you really need Static Pressure(SP) fans. You can either return the AF fans, or use the included H55 fan in push, and the AF fan in pull.
> 
> Lastly for the VRM temps, you should consider buying a Gelid R9 290 VRM Heatsink Kit. That should reduce VRM temps into the 60s and 70s.
> 
> What is your ambient temperature?


You were 100% right sir. I was afraid to tighten the cooler too much. I tightened it a bit more and now max load temp is 66 C. I am using an NZXT fan controller to set the pump and fans to 100%. Also, thanks for the gelid recommendation, I have ordered it.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> You were 100% right sir. I was afraid to tighten the cooler too much. I tightened it a bit more and now max load temp is 66 C. I am using an NZXT fan controller to set the pump and fans to 100%. Also, thanks for the gelid recommendation, I have ordered it.


Nice! Glad we got it working for you! If you still want, we can try a few other things to really maximize performance. If interested, can you please answer all of my questions below?

What are your ambient temps? What resolution are you playing at? # of monitors? What application are you using to create load on the card? Are you using just a single 120mm fan on the radiator? Do you have this radiator set as rear exhaust? Do you have an overclock going? If so, what OC settings?


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Nice! Glad we got it working for you! If you still want, we can try a few other things to really maximize performance. If interested, can you please answer all of my questions below?
> 
> What are your ambient temps? What resolution are you playing at? # of monitors? What application are you using to create load on the card? Are you using just a single 120mm fan on the radiator? Do you have this radiator set as rear exhaust? Do you have an overclock going? If so, what OC settings?


Ambient temp: 30 C
Resolution: 2560x1440p at 100Hz
Monitor (DVI-D): 1 (QNIX 2710), TV(HDMI): 1 (not used for gaming)
Applications: Witcher 3, GPU-Z
Radiator fans: After doing some research as suggested by you, I put a Static pressure fan as push, and an AF120 as pull on the radiator.
Radiator is set as rear exhaust.
No overclocking so far.

As a side note, I did have a crossfire going for the 290x, but one of them got fried since one of the Corsair H55 was DOA and I didn't realize it until it was too late. The second 290x won't POST on a different motherboard or different PCI-Express lanes. Sadface.

My goal is to RMA the Sapphire 290x (only 11 months old), and hopefully they replace. Then I will crossfire them again, with another Corsair H55 and SP fans.

Thanks for the help so far.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> My FTW+ is exactly the same design as the SSC with the excpetion of higher clocks and the inclusion of a backplate.
> 
> With option 2 my proposal is to remove the plastic shroud from the metal fin array and pipes and re-attach the metal fin array and pipes back onto the board if it's possible - minus the plastic shroud that contains the fans. Then place the separate bracket with say two 120mm fans directly below the metal fins and pipe array. In essence the bracket and fans would act as a reaplcement for the stock plastic shroud and fans.
> 
> A third variation on this could be to try to possibly clip the fans onto the metal fin array directly, or instead get the prolimatech mk-26 if it's compatible and clip the fans onto that.
> 
> These options are cheaper alternatives than getting an AIO cooler.
> 
> What type of 120mm fans should I be looking at? I like low noise, so am tempted be the be quiet siletwings 2, but what stats regarding cfm (air flow) and mm/H2O (static pressure) are necessary to cool the gpu?


Are you sure? Could you please remove the stock cooler and take a picture so we can verify?

When I look online, I get this picture for the 970 FTW:

This is according to Anandtech

Am I understanding correctly that option #2 means you won't be using the G10? That you just want to remove the plastic shroud and fans, and then mount your own fans over the heatsinks/fin array? That is something I don't have any experience with. It sounds interesting, I just don't know what kind of performance and noise you can expect by doing that. You should be able to keep the heatsink and fin array attached without the plastic shroud. Just make sure that you are powering the fans from a source other than the GPU.


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Are you sure? Could you please remove the stock cooler and take a picture so we can verify?
> 
> When I look online, I get this picture for the 970 FTW:
> 
> This is according to Anandtech
> 
> Am I understanding correctly that option #2 means you won't be using the G10? That you just want to remove the plastic shroud and fans, and then mount your own fans over the heatsinks/fin array? That is something I don't have any experience with. It sounds interesting, I just don't know what kind of performance and noise you can expect by doing that. You should be able to keep the heatsink and fin array attached without the plastic shroud. Just make sure that you are powering the fans from a source other than the GPU.


Not got access to it so can't take a photo, but the one you link to it the older design (both the SC and the FTW) with the curved heatpipes that had problems. EVGA realeased a new cooler design the ACX 2.0+ in late DEC 2014 for both the SSC and the FTW+ (notice the plus) with straight heatpipes. They are both the same design, except that the FTW+ is clocked higher and includes a backplate as standard.

Option 2 without the G10 is correct. Either direct mounting onto the heatsink/fin array or using the bracket positioned directly underneath. Trying to find as inexpensive a cooling solution as possible, that's why I'm considering it. Someone else also mentioned about using the mobo or psu for fan connections, so thanks.

Performance wise, I'm not sure what I might get, but some research elsewhere suggests that this might work. I'll have to see. if it fails I can still add the G10 and H55 mod in later.

Are their any enormous benefits to an AIO cooler over a solid dual 120mm air cooler?

Quick question what fan speed does your second 120mm fan in the g10 reach at gaming load? It will give me marker for my mod.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> Ambient temp: 30 C
> Resolution: 2560x1440p at 100Hz
> Monitor (DVI-D): 1 (QNIX 2710), TV(HDMI): 1 (not used for gaming)
> Applications: Witcher 3, GPU-Z
> Radiator fans: After doing some research as suggested by you, I put a Static pressure fan as push, and an AF120 as pull on the radiator.
> Radiator is set as rear exhaust.
> No overclocking so far.
> 
> As a side note, I did have a crossfire going for the 290x, but one of them got fried since one of the Corsair H55 was DOA and I didn't realize it until it was too late. The second 290x won't POST on a different motherboard or different PCI-Express lanes. Sadface.
> 
> My goal is to RMA the Sapphire 290x (only 11 months old), and hopefully they replace. Then I will crossfire them again, with another Corsair H55 and SP fans.
> 
> Thanks for the help so far.


Ahh ok, that makes much more sense. Your temps seemed a tad high, but now having more info, those temps are right in line with what you should be expecting.
30C ambient is pretty high, so theres that.
Then you are also running at 1440p, 100Hz, which demands a lot more GPU horsepower than your standard 1080p, 60Hz.
Witcher 3 is also one of, if not the most graphically demanding games right now, so it is going to push the GPU extremely hard.

Considering all of those factors, your temps are very good. Overclocking will definitely add some more heat, so keep that in mind.

Dang, that sucks about the H55. If Sapphire doesn't accept your RMA, which I am sure they will, I have heard that Corsair is pretty good about taking care of their customers when it comes to faulty AIOs. Just a contingency plan in case Sapphire doesn't come through.

You could also try just a single G10 on the top card, because removing the heat from the top card typically removes enough heat from the system that the bottom card is able to run at much lower temps than if you had two non-reference cards in Xfire. Of course you cannot go wrong with 2x G10s, just letting you know that a single one has been enough for others in the past, even though they thought they needed two. If you are going for lower noise, then 2x G10s is definitely the way to go, just make sure you have that 2nd H55 set as exhaust somehow.

Happy to help! Let me know if I can help in any other way


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ahh ok, that makes much more sense. Your temps seemed a tad high, but now having more info, those temps are right in line with what you should be expecting.
> 30C ambient is pretty high, so theres that.
> Then you are also running at 1440p, 100Hz, which demands a lot more GPU horsepower than your standard 1080p, 60Hz.
> Witcher 3 is also one of, if not the most graphically demanding games right now, so it is going to push the GPU extremely hard.
> 
> Considering all of those factors, your temps are very good. Overclocking will definitely add some more heat, so keep that in mind.
> 
> Dang, that sucks about the H55. If Sapphire doesn't accept your RMA, which I am sure they will, I have heard that Corsair is pretty good about taking care of their customers when it comes to faulty AIOs. Just a contingency plan in case Sapphire doesn't come through.
> 
> You could also try just a single G10 on the top card, because removing the heat from the top card typically removes enough heat from the system that the bottom card is able to run at much lower temps than if you had two non-reference cards in Xfire. Of course you cannot go wrong with 2x G10s, just letting you know that a single one has been enough for others in the past, even though they thought they needed two. If you are going for lower noise, then 2x G10s is definitely the way to go, just make sure you have that 2nd H55 set as exhaust somehow.
> 
> Happy to help! Let me know if I can help in any other way


Thanks again for the reply. The high fan speed on the 290x cards is the main reason I chose to go the G10 bracket with the liquid cooling. While playing witcher 3, the fans on the card would reach 70-80db and I wouldn't be able to listen to any of the dialog in the game. It gets so loud, you can hear the fans from a different room, even with the door closed lol. I just think that 2x G10 brackets on the cards would future proof me for at least a few years, don't plan on upgrading anytime soon. The reason for the high ambient temp is California, it's hot here


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> Not got access to it so can't take a photo, but the one you link to it the older design (both the SC and the FTW) with the curved heatpipes that had problems. EVGA realeased a new cooler design the ACX 2.0+ in late DEC 2014 for both the SSC and the FTW+ (notice the plus) with straight heatpipes. They are both the same design, except that the FTW+ is clocked higher and includes a backplate as standard.
> 
> Option 2 without the G10 is correct. Either direct mounting onto the heatsink/fin array or using the bracket positioned directly underneath. Trying to find as inexpensive a cooling solution as possible, that's why I'm considering it. Someone else also mentioned about using the mobo or psu for fan connections, so thanks.
> 
> Performance wise, I'm not sure what I might get, but some research elsewhere suggests that this might work. I'll have to see. if it fails I can still add the G10 and H55 mod in later.
> 
> Are their any enormous benefits to an AIO cooler over a solid dual 120mm air cooler?
> 
> Quick question what fan speed does your second 120mm fan in the g10 reach at gaming load? It will give me marker for my mod.


Ahh ok, didn't know that about the updated cooler designs. Good to know!

You mean an AIO Cooler + G10 Vs. The stock heatsink design? Or Vs. a Raijinitek Morpheus?

There are a lot of benefits to the AIO + G10. Obviously the main two benefits that get cited the most are the much lower temperatures, and much lower noise. The 3rd benefit that doesn't get enough acclaim is that the G10 + AIO can be moved from GPU to GPU. It is compatible with virtually every GPU, from both AMD and Nvidia. Spending $100 on an AIO + G10 means you will have advanced cooling, and lower noise on any GPU you use for the foreseeable future! Its much more of an investment when you look at it that way.

I have two fans in push/pull on my X31(120mm) radiator. Both are Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm fans. I have them running at a constant 1250rpm, regardless of load. While gaming, I never exceed 49C except when I use DSR, playing at 1080p, 60Hz.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> Thanks again for the reply. The high fan speed on the 290x cards is the main reason I chose to go the G10 bracket with the liquid cooling. While playing witcher 3, the fans on the card would reach 70-80db and I wouldn't be able to listen to any of the dialog in the game. It gets so loud, you can hear the fans from a different room, even with the door closed lol. I just think that 2x G10 brackets on the cards would future proof me for at least a few years, don't plan on upgrading anytime soon. The reason for the high ambient temp is California, it's hot here


Yea, the G10 reduced the noise of my system considerably!

Using the Sound Meter Lite App on my phone, I measure between 40-44dB. My case is the Phanteks Enthoo Pro, it is at head level, on my desk, and my head is ~40inches/1meter away from the front of the chassis.

I never tested what my system was at before the G10 mod, but I can assure you, it was much louder than what it currently is.

Just as I was talking about in the post above, the G10 bracket is really an investment because it can be used on so many different cards, across AMD/Nvidia, and hopefully for the foreseeable future.

30C is hot man! You don't have AC in your room? I lived in Florida, and now Texas, it is probably 30C outside, but inside I'm at a nice 24C/75F.


----------



## guppysb

No AC in my room








It's usually hotter inside my room than outside, usually....


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ahh ok, didn't know that about the updated cooler designs. Good to know!
> 
> You mean an AIO Cooler + G10 Vs. The stock heatsink design? Or Vs. a Raijinitek Morpheus?
> 
> There are a lot of benefits to the AIO + G10. Obviously the main two benefits that get cited the most are the much lower temperatures, and much lower noise. The 3rd benefit that doesn't get enough acclaim is that the G10 + AIO can be moved from GPU to GPU. It is compatible with virtually every GPU, from both AMD and Nvidia. Spending $100 on an AIO + G10 means you will have advanced cooling, and lower noise on any GPU you use for the foreseeable future! Its much more of an investment when you look at it that way.
> 
> I have two fans in push/pull on my X31(120mm) radiator. Both are Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm fans. I have them running at a constant 1250rpm, regardless of load. While gaming, I never exceed 49C except when I use DSR, playing at 1080p, 60Hz.


Those benefits do seem good. Besides any AIO fan noise, what other sounds are there - pump I think, but what else and are they noticeable?
I guess I'll tinker with the air coolers, but if I'm not happy or just want to mod further I'll go down the G10 + AIO. The corsair h55 is a good silent AIO, yes. I could probably add any 120mm pwm fan to it?

With regards to thernal paste, MX4 is perfectly fine and I should apply the same amount as I would to a CPU cooler?

Thanks.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> With regards to thernal paste, MX4 is perfectly fine and I should apply the same amount as I would to a CPU cooler?
> 
> Thanks.


gpu is smaller than your typical cpu, so you want to use less thermal paste. I am using Gelid Solutions Extreme and I used about a rice grain maybe 2.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> Those benefits do seem good. Besides any AIO fan noise, what other sounds are there - pump I think, but what else and are they noticeable?
> I guess I'll tinker with the air coolers, but if I'm not happy or just want to mod further I'll go down the G10 + AIO. The corsair h55 is a good silent AIO, yes. I could probably add any 120mm pwm fan to it?
> 
> With regards to thernal paste, MX4 is perfectly fine and I should apply the same amount as I would to a CPU cooler?
> 
> Thanks.


Pump noise, but its not noticeable, and if it is, its likely air in the pump, which is an easy fix:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT_u_eLVoIc

There is also the 92mm fan, but even at full speed, it isn't noticeable. Because of your VRMs on the left side, you will have to engineer a solution for getting airflow over the left side of the card, so because of that, there might be some extra noise depending on what you decide to use for that.

Yup, you can add any 120mm PWM fan to it, just have to buy a PWM Y-Splitter so that you can control both the included and extra fan. Y-splitters are really cheap, like $4.

MX-4 is a good TIM, you will want to apply just a little bit more than you would to a CPU because the GPU Die is bigger. I also recommend the spread method for the G10 mod because the mounting pressure of the G10 bracket isn't as much as other traditional cooling methods. People have done it all kinds of ways: Pea, Line, Spread, whatever works for you, I personally prefer the spread method and it has served me well.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@mstrmind5

Looking closer at the mid-plate on the FTW+ GPU, you might want to buy a copper shim. I would rather you have one just in case, rather than buy everything, and then find out that it is needed.


Those little wings in yellow might interfere with mounting, I can't be sure.

It ships from China, so order it now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-25mm-25mm-1-0mm-Heatsink-Copper-pad-Shim-for-Dell-XPS-GPU-VGA-/270932925392?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f14dc5bd0

Like I said, I am not positive that you will need it, but its better to be safe than sorry.


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> gpu is smaller than your typical cpu, so you want to use less thermal paste. I am using Gelid Solutions Extreme and I used about a rice grain maybe 2.


Thanks.


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Pump noise, but its not noticeable, and if it is, its likely air in the pump, which is an easy fix:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT_u_eLVoIc
> 
> There is also the 92mm fan, but even at full speed, it isn't noticeable. Because of your VRMs on the left side, you will have to engineer a solution for getting airflow over the left side of the card, so because of that, there might be some extra noise depending on what you decide to use for that.
> 
> Yup, you can add any 120mm PWM fan to it, just have to buy a PWM Y-Splitter so that you can control both the included and extra fan. Y-splitters are really cheap, like $4.
> 
> MX-4 is a good TIM, you will want to apply just a little bit more than you would to a CPU because the GPU Die is bigger. I also recommend the spread method for the G10 mod because the mounting pressure of the G10 bracket isn't as much as other traditional cooling methods. People have done it all kinds of ways: Pea, Line, Spread, whatever works for you, I personally prefer the spread method and it has served me well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @mstrmind5
> 
> Looking closer at the mid-plate on the FTW+ GPU, you might want to buy a copper shim. I would rather you have one just in case, rather than buy everything, and then find out that it is needed.
> 
> 
> Those little wings in yellow might interfere with mounting, I can't be sure.
> 
> It ships from China, so order it now.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-25mm-25mm-1-0mm-Heatsink-Copper-pad-Shim-for-Dell-XPS-GPU-VGA-/270932925392?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f14dc5bd0
> 
> Like I said, I am not positive that you will need it, but its better to be safe than sorry.


Thanks for all that. This vid shows what you mean about the shim http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo&t=3m49s and a good guide I guess.

Thanks again.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> Thanks for all that. This vid shows what you mean about the shim http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo&t=3m49s and a good guide I guess.
> 
> Thanks again.


Yup, good video and guide. The mid plate on your card is slightly different from the one in the video, but I'd rather you spend $5 and be prepared than not.


----------



## masteratarms

With all the talk of thermal pads + straight TIM, I thought this link would be of interest:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18676004

http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search_results.php?keywords=thermal+grizzly&rows=0&view=list

If I needed some thermal pads for a new card I'd most likely get these.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> With all the talk of thermal pads + straight TIM, I thought this link would be of interest:
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18676004
> 
> http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search_results.php?keywords=thermal+grizzly&rows=0&view=list
> 
> If I needed some thermal pads for a new card I'd most likely get these.


Some good looking stuff, but man is it expensive!

Are their thermal pads for sure double side adhesive?


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yup, good video and guide. The mid plate on your card is slightly different from the one in the video, but I'd rather you spend $5 and be prepared than not.


Wiil do, always try to think of what might go wrong and plane ahead.

But the mod might have to wait because despite all of my efforts I couldn't cure the card of its coil whine, so I hoping that EVGA will replace thorugh RMA. I tried running heaven benchmark for a sustained period, two different psu's - nothing worked. Even if they grant a RMA, there is still the pain of having to fork out for shipping costs to them (I do have to cover that don't I?)


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> Wiil do, always try to think of what might go wrong and plane ahead.
> 
> But the mod might have to wait because despite all of my efforts I couldn't cure the card of its coil whine, so I hoping that EVGA will replace thorugh RMA. I tried running heaven benchmark for a sustained period, two different psu's - nothing worked. Even if they grant a RMA, there is still the pain of having to fork out for shipping costs to them (I do have to cover that don't I?)


Yup, you have to cover shipping. Honestly man, learn to live with the coil whine. Chances are the next one you get is going to suffer from coil whine also. My EVGA 780 SC had some pretty bad coil whine when I first got it. After 3 months of use, the whine went away. Just be patience, save your money, and the whine will go away eventually.


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yup, you have to cover shipping. Honestly man, learn to live with the coil whine. Chances are the next one you get is going to suffer from coil whine also. My EVGA 780 SC had some pretty bad coil whine when I first got it. After 3 months of use, the whine went away. Just be patience, save your money, and the whine will go away eventually.


https://www.youtube.com/user/mstrmind820937/videos

Some sample vids if you could give an opinion, The issue with this is that I could only film with an ipad 2 so the quality is somewhat poor and youtube's volume is lower than my actual experience. I've also included download links to the raw files and if you play them in VLC media player with at least 150% volume in the player and your headphones at max, gives a more accrate reading of what I can hear.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/user/mstrmind820937/videos
> 
> Some sample vids if you could give an opinion, The issue with this is that I could only film with an ipad 2 so the quality is somewhat poor and youtube's volume is lower than my actual experience. I've also included download links to the raw files and if you play them in VLC media player with at least 150% volume in the player and your headphones at max, gives a more accrate reading of what I can hear.


Yup, thats coil whine. I personally couldn't hear it when you're idling, and I did put my headphones on and crank the volume. Maybe the sound of the fans is too much and I'm not able to hear.

How long have you had this card? Coil whine does go away eventually, and spending money to RMA for this, when its no guarantee you get a card without coil whine is really risky. I've seen people on LTT try and RMA 3-4 times and still get coil whine on their 970s... its just something that you have to hope goes away in time.


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yup, thats coil whine. I personally couldn't hear it when you're idling, and I did put my headphones on and crank the volume. Maybe the sound of the fans is too much and I'm not able to hear.
> 
> How long have you had this card? Coil whine does go away eventually, and spending money to RMA for this, when its no guarantee you get a card without coil whine is really risky. I've seen people on LTT try and RMA 3-4 times and still get coil whine on their 970s... its just something that you have to hope goes away in time.


There's none at idle, meant as a baseline to the whine at load. Had the card for two weeks and having spoken to EVGA they will give a replacement. But like you said no gurantee the next is any better. I'll wait a few more weeks trying to 'burn' the card in and if it still doesn't improve and I can't take the whine anymore I'll probably RMA it.

LTT - Linus Tech Tips?

Is whine present in all card lines - 970's, 980's, 980ti's, kepler and in AMD cards as well. Or are the 970's a special case. It may not affect performance but for the price we have to pay, this type of quirk shouldn't really be present.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Hello guys! I looked around in the thread but didn't find anything similar so here goes:

Recently I got really interested in AIOing my GPU which is an Msi 970 Gaming.

This is the frontside of the pcb:
http://www.hardwareluxx.de/media/jphoto/artikel-galerien/msi-geforce-gtx-970-gaming-im-test/msi-gtx970-gaming-test-13-950x631.jpg

Backside:
http://www.hardwareluxx.de/media/jphoto/artikel-galerien/msi-geforce-gtx-970-gaming-im-test/msi-gtx970-gaming-test-05-950x631.jpg

Looks like an easy fit for an AIO cooler right? What components would I need to consider cooling with additional heatsinks if any? As I understand the VRMs are properly heatsinked already. Maybe some VRAM heatsinks?

If possible I'd prefer the G10 without a fan at all. Is that possible?

Thank you for your time!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> There's none at idle, meant as a baseline to the whine at load. Had the card for two weeks and having spoken to EVGA they will give a replacement. But like you said no gurantee the next is any better. I'll wait a few more weeks trying to 'burn' the card in and if it still doesn't improve and I can't take the whine anymore I'll probably RMA it.
> 
> LTT - Linus Tech Tips?
> 
> Is whine present in all card lines - 970's, 980's, 980ti's, kepler and in AMD cards as well. Or are the 970's a special case. It may not affect performance but for the price we have to pay, this type of quirk shouldn't really be present.


LTT- Yup, Linus Tech Tips.

It can happen in all cards, they can all be susceptible to coil whine, but it is very prevalent in the 970's though, way more than any other card to date that I have seen.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> Hello guys! I looked around in the thread but didn't find anything similar so here goes:
> 
> Recently I got really interested in AIOing my GPU which is an Msi 970 Gaming.
> 
> This is the frontside of the pcb:
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/media/jphoto/artikel-galerien/msi-geforce-gtx-970-gaming-im-test/msi-gtx970-gaming-test-13-950x631.jpg
> 
> Backside:
> http://www.hardwareluxx.de/media/jphoto/artikel-galerien/msi-geforce-gtx-970-gaming-im-test/msi-gtx970-gaming-test-05-950x631.jpg
> 
> Looks like an easy fit for an AIO cooler right? What components would I need to consider cooling with additional heatsinks if any? As I understand the VRMs are properly heatsinked already. Maybe some VRAM heatsinks?
> 
> If possible I'd prefer the G10 without a fan at all. Is that possible?
> 
> Thank you for your time!


Thats a very nice card to do the G10 mod to because the VRMs are very well heatsinked, as well as the VRAM(not as crucial as VRM). The issue with 970s, is that the VRMs are on the left side of the PCB, but the G10 was designed for right side VRMs. This isn't the end of the world, just means you will have to get creative with your airflow. Doing the G10 without a fan is not possible, you HAVE to get airflow over the VRMs somehow. What you could do is ghetto mount the included 92mm fan to blow over the left side of the PCB somehow. There is also a product called the Antec Spot Cool that allows for really precise directional airflow.

You will install the G10 as you normally would, without the 92mm fan installed. You will then have to find some way of getting airflow over the VRMs.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Thats a very nice card to do the G10 mod to because the VRMs are very well heatsinked, as well as the VRAM(not as crucial as VRM). The issue with 970s, is that the VRMs are on the left side of the PCB, but the G10 was designed for right side VRMs. This isn't the end of the world, just means you will have to get creative with your airflow. Doing the G10 without a fan is not possible, you HAVE to get airflow over the VRMs somehow. What you could do is ghetto mount the included 92mm fan to blow over the left side of the PCB somehow. There is also a product called the Antec Spot Cool that allows for really precise directional airflow.
> 
> You will install the G10 as you normally would, without the 92mm fan installed. You will then have to find some way of getting airflow over the VRMs.


Thank you for input! I have a define r5 so I could place a fan on the side to blow air for the gpu. I was thinking of getting a plain metal bracket to just hold the AIO in place but maybe the G10 would be worth it even though the fan is on the wrong side initially. I'll try to figure out something. Spotcool looks effective but ugly


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> Thank you for input! I have a define r5 so I could place a fan on the side to blow air for the gpu. I was thinking of getting a plain metal bracket to just hold the AIO in place but maybe the G10 would be worth it even though the fan is on the wrong side initially. I'll try to figure out something. Spotcool looks effective but ugly


You could use something like this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426045

Mount directly below the gpu and blow upwards, I would do that but I have a m-itx case and no additional pci slots.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You could use something like this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426045
> 
> Mount directly below the gpu and blow upwards, I would do that but I have a m-itx case and no additional pci slots.


That's brilliant! Gonna look one up in Europe









Another question: can you install a backplate after you install an AIO on the gpu like with a G10? I'm looking at a backplate with no holes around the core itself.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> Thank you for input! I have a define r5 so I could place a fan on the side to blow air for the gpu. I was thinking of getting a plain metal bracket to just hold the AIO in place but maybe the G10 would be worth it even though the fan is on the wrong side initially. I'll try to figure out something. Spotcool looks effective but ugly


Yea, effective, but kinda obtrusive looking.

Maybe you could twist tie the 92mm fan to the PCI bracket covers so that it is blowing upwards on the VRMs? A side case fan will be good, but you really want some direct airflow over the VRMs.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> That's brilliant! Gonna look one up in Europe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question: can you install a backplate after you install an AIO on the gpu like with a G10? I'm looking at a backplate with no holes around the core itself.


Yup, you can keep a backplate installed with the G10. In order to do so, you will need to thin down or remove the included foam piece that comes pre-applied to the G10's small mounting backplate.

Here is a PCI Fan Bracket Mount that should ship to Europe. You will have to provide your own fans though.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yup, you can keep a backplate installed with the G10. In order to do so, you will need to thin down or remove the included foam piece that comes pre-applied to the G10's small mounting backplate.
> 
> Here is a PCI Fan Bracket Mount that should ship to Europe. You will have to provide your own fans though.


Really appreciate the help mate









EDIT: Found this to mount a 140mm fan: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-031-AL
I got 2 140mm fans lying around so that could be ideal







Mounting just one could be enough aswell, as the VRM is located right above the first fan.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> Really appreciate the help mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Found this to mount a 140mm fan: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-031-AL
> I got 2 140mm fans lying around so that could be ideal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting just one could be enough aswell, as the VRM is located right above the first fan.


That will be perfect! Nice find!


----------



## besthijacker

Just got all my stuff delivered yesterday! Gonna do my video cards when I get back from work today! Exciting stuff!


----------



## Prometheus6987

if you guys still need you can also check out this benchmark bracket http://shop.dimastech.it/en/dimastech-flexfan140-black-v20, I just installed it on my case and it helped quite a lot for Vrm temps, even better than the solution I had before with 2 small fans under each gpu, that was Imo not optimal since in Sli the upper card was still getting the hot air from the bottom one. the only things you need to install it are a bolt and a flat washer.

I hope this helps


----------



## stickskillz

Where do I plug my Zalman LQ320 Water Pump cable http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118136
on my ASUS Z97M-Plus motherboard? https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z97MPLUS/


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickskillz*
> 
> Where do I plug my Zalman LQ320 Water Pump cable http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118136
> on my ASUS Z97M-Plus motherboard? https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z97MPLUS/


You can plug it into any fan header you like, you just have to make sure to set it to 100% in Fan Xpert. Or you can buy a 3pin to molex adapter and plug it directly into the PSU for constant 100% operating without taking up a fan header.


----------



## laxu

Thinking of buying the G10 and Corsair H55 and cooling a MSI 980 Ti with it since it seems to have its own VRM heatsink. The only problem is that where can I mount the radiator? I have a Fractal Define R3 case with a massive Phanteks CPU cooler so I have some doubts how the radiator would fit into the rear fan slot. How thick is the typical 120mm radiator with a fan on it?

I think I could just cut out the rear fan honeycomb and install the fan outside the case if need be. However is having a push-pull so beneficial in this kind of setup that it would be better to have two fans?

Another alternative would be to cut out the top half of the drive cage and mount the radiator there with it exhausting out of the front (thru the side vents in the front panel). I have a 140mm side panel fan currently blowing air into the case as the drive cage causes very limited airflow in from the front.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxu*
> 
> Thinking of buying the G10 and Corsair H55 and cooling a MSI 980 Ti with it since it seems to have its own VRM heatsink. The only problem is that where can I mount the radiator? I have a Fractal Define R3 case with a massive Phanteks CPU cooler so I have some doubts how the radiator would fit into the rear fan slot. How thick is the typical 120mm radiator with a fan on it?
> 
> I think I could just cut out the rear fan honeycomb and install the fan outside the case if need be. However is having a push-pull so beneficial in this kind of setup that it would be better to have two fans?
> 
> Another alternative would be to cut out the top half of the drive cage and mount the radiator there with it exhausting out of the front (thru the side vents in the front panel). I have a 140mm side panel fan currently blowing air into the case as the drive cage causes very limited airflow in from the front.


The MSI 980Ti is a beautiful card with an amazing built in heatsink, so no extras would really be necessary. Its as simple as AIO + Bracket.

52mm is the thickness of an H55 + single 120mm fan, so measure to make sure. You could mod the case to make the fan mount on the outside, thats a possibility. Push pull isn't necessary, but it definitely helps by about 3-5C, plus you get to keep the fans at a lower speed, for more quiet operation.

If you were to mount it to the front, it would have to be as exhaust, and make sure that the tubes are long enough for it to reach.


----------



## missalaire

So I have MSI Afterburner and GPU-Z, but neither of them show VRM temperature, only GPU core. Does anyone know if it's possible to get a read on that sensor? I have the MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G.


----------



## besthijacker

Thanks alot Pinko! Just did my first cards and results are amazing so far. Idle at 30C and full load at 40C.

Can't wait for some OC!


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> So I have MSI Afterburner and GPU-Z, but neither of them show VRM temperature, only GPU core. Does anyone know if it's possible to get a read on that sensor? I have the MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G.


I believe the 980 Ti and all other reference based Nvidia cards don't have a VRM sensor. Only custom PCB designs have that like the Lightning and Kingpin.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> So I have MSI Afterburner and GPU-Z, but neither of them show VRM temperature, only GPU core. Does anyone know if it's possible to get a read on that sensor? I have the MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G.


Nope =( Nvidia cards, outside for a select few, don't monitor VRM temps. You could buy a $15 temperature thermometer, or some Fan Controllers have built in thermometers.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *besthijacker*
> 
> Thanks alot Pinko! Just did my first cards and results are amazing so far. Idle at 30C and full load at 40C.
> 
> Can't wait for some OC!


Nice results!


----------



## laxu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The MSI 980Ti is a beautiful card with an amazing built in heatsink, so no extras would really be necessary. Its as simple as AIO + Bracket.
> 
> 52mm is the thickness of an H55 + single 120mm fan, so measure to make sure. You could mod the case to make the fan mount on the outside, thats a possibility. Push pull isn't necessary, but it definitely helps by about 3-5C, plus you get to keep the fans at a lower speed, for more quiet operation.
> 
> If you were to mount it to the front, it would have to be as exhaust, and make sure that the tubes are long enough for it to reach.


Thanks! It seems that it would fit in the back with a few cm left between the radiator+fan and the CPU cooler. Just have to put an exhaust fan to the top of the case.


----------



## Vagrancy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> The 25mm x 25mm x 1mm should work better because it is more surface area, but if you can only find 20mm x 20mm, its not the end of the world. You generally have to order the shim from eBay/Amazon and its sourced from Asia, so order it now. Or, if you can find a metal shop local, ask them to make you a copper shim in those specifications, just make sure that they smooth and lap is very well. You will need to buy your own thermal paste to apply on both sides of the shim. I recommend Gelid GC Extreme, but there are other, less expensive TIMs out there. Noctua NT-H1, MX-4, IC Diamond, Prolimatech PK3 to name a few.
> 
> Yes, the aluminum heatsinks are the ones I personally use and recommend. Because you have an EVGA model card with a built in mid-plate, you can install these heatsinks directly onto the midplate using the pre-applied thermal tape. This is optional because the midplate already does an excellent job of cooling the VRMs, but a little extra peace of mind for $7 doesn't hurt anyone.


I'm debating on waiting for the HG10 from Corsair to be released for visual purposes I just wish they offered a similiar full shroud like EVGA's hybrid cooler..despite it being ugly the fact that it still covers everything is appealing.

I've ordered the H75 and the Gelid GC Extreme but I may hold off for the HG10 apparently its supposed to be released in August for the 980Ti from what I've heard. They've only mentioned the reference model has compatibility so I'm curious if the ACX 2.0 cooling (EVGA Reference) will fit.


----------



## besthijacker

Here are two pics of my complete setup.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Wooow you went crazy with the extra heatsinks!!! They look great though, thats one beautiful setup you have there!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> I'm debating on waiting for the HG10 from Corsair to be released for visual purposes I just wish they offered a similiar full shroud like EVGA's hybrid cooler..despite it being ugly the fact that it still covers everything is appealing.
> 
> I've ordered the H75 and the Gelid GC Extreme but I may hold off for the HG10 apparently its supposed to be released in August for the 980Ti from what I've heard. They've only mentioned the reference model has compatibility so I'm curious if the ACX 2.0 cooling (EVGA Reference) will fit.


I wouldn't hold your breath. Corsair has not been the most prompt when it comes to releasing their HG10 models. Also, because you have the EVGA 980Ti, I wouldn't even bother with the HG10, because the mid plate of the ACX Cooler already does an excellent job of cooling the VRMs and VRAM. You should just get the G10 because your components are already heatsinked well. Plus, the G10 is transferable to other GPUs, so in the future if/when you upgrade, you can use the G10, whereas the HG10 is card specific and you won't be able to do that.


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *besthijacker*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are two pics of my complete setup.


It's interesting you chose a double radiator for your cpu but only a single for your gpus. I think the TDP of your CPU is far less than that of your GPUs. Then again, you could have a similar problem that I have, where the AIO liquid cooling solution does not reach the top, or space could be an issue.


----------



## besthijacker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Wooow you went crazy with the extra heatsinks!!! They look great though, thats one beautiful setup you have there!


When you first marked VRAM+Memory on my card and when I put heatsinks on the card, I wasn't sure if I should just put one row. And those heatsinks are SMALL.

I kinda freaked out and order 4 more of them and just put second row just in case.

And for the space issue. Once I hooked up my push-pull for my CPU on top. I had REALLY had time trying to mount up push-pull for two video cards.

NZXT X61 is 280mm, which I couldn't mount push-pull on the back side. Luckily, on the bottom, I was able to mount it. But for front, it only accepts 12mm. I just used one screw and use zip-ties for rest three holes. Not ideal setup but it's working so far.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> It's interesting you chose a double radiator for your cpu but only a single for your gpus. I think the TDP of your CPU is far less than that of your GPUs. Then again, you could have a similar problem that I have, where the AIO liquid cooling solution does not reach the top, or space could be an issue.


I'm in a similar situation (haven't installed g10 yet) but I have a x61 for my Cpu and everyone seems to say that a double rad is a waste for the gpu for some reason. X61 is so freaking big though I might change that for an x41 aswell.

I ditched my msi 970 g10 project and went balls to the wall, ordered msi 980ti. Suddenly the thread seems to be full of them now haha









Anyway I dunno if 970 produces enough heat for an AIO to really make a difference but a 980ti probably does.


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> I'm in a similar situation (haven't installed g10 yet) but I have a x61 for my Cpu and everyone seems to say that a double rad is a waste for the gpu for some reason. X61 is so freaking big though I might change that for an x41 aswell.
> 
> I ditched my msi 970 g10 project and went balls to the wall, ordered msi 980ti. Suddenly the thread seems to be full of them now haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I dunno if 970 produces enough heat for an AIO to really make a difference but a 980ti probably does.


I believe the 980 ti has a TDP of 250w, so if overclocking and sound is a concern for you, go with the AIO. For me, the G10 is a nobrainer for the 290x. My 290x would reach 94 C easily, and the fans were so loud, you couldn't even hear the game. In fact, you could hear the 290x from another room, with the doors closed. I believe the 290x TDP is somewhere north of 300W, but it's a very demanding GPU.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> I believe the 980 ti has a TDP of 250w, so if overclocking and sound is a concern for you, go with the AIO. For me, the G10 is a nobrainer for the 290x. My 290x would reach 94 C easily, and the fans were so loud, you couldn't even hear the game. In fact, you could hear the 290x from another room, with the doors closed. I believe the 290x TDP is somewhere north of 300W, but it's a very demanding GPU.


980ti reviews seems to indicate that the gpu reaches temps of 70+ when overclocked so there definitely should be atleast 20° to knock off. A little afraid to butcher a brand new card but what do :d ofc I'll run it with the stock cooler for a while to see if I like it.

290 series are really hot and their TDP is high so going AIO is a very solid choice. Hell they should sell it with liquid cooling like the fury x


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> 980ti reviews seems to indicate that the gpu reaches temps of 70+ when overclocked so there definitely should be atleast 20° to knock off. A little afraid to butcher a brand new card but what do :d ofc I'll run it with the stock cooler for a while to see if I like it.
> 
> 290 series are really hot and their TDP is high so going AIO is a very solid choice. Hell they should sell it with liquid cooling like the fury x


I hear terrible things about the Fury X coil whine, but that's a different discussion. In my eyes, you should replace the stock cooler as soon as possible. Especially if you buy from an amazing vendor like Amazon. If you mess up......return the card, otherwise you're set. Then you don't have to go through a nasty RMA process where you might or might not get a working card at the end.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> I hear terrible things about the Fury X coil whine, but that's a different discussion. In my eyes, you should replace the stock cooler as soon as possible. Especially if you buy from an amazing vendor like Amazon. If you mess up......return the card, otherwise you're set. Then you don't have to go through a nasty RMA process where you might or might not get a working card at the end.


I bought from hardwareversand.de as it was the cheapest option with the least shipping costs aswell.

I'll just remove the warranty sticker carefully and stick it back on if something explodes









EDIT:

These are my plans for airflow in my case. I really would prefer not to open the roof.
Plan A


Plan B


What do you guys think?







I realize plan b might impose some problems in the VRM department but I included it anyway.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Kukkaroinen

Go for Plan A. You want the heat from the GPU/G10 to be exhausted out of your chassis.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Guppysb

The reason people use smaller radiators on their GPUs is because they respond so much better to watercooling than CPUs. The diminishing returns hit pretty hard and quick past 120mm radiators on GPUs, so the difference between a 120mm radiator and a 280mm radiator is less than 10C. The 280mm radiator will allow you to run fans at a lower speed, so there is that to consider, but overall in terms of performance, 120mm is really the sweet spot.

For CPUs, anything smaller than 240mm radiators is kind of a job half done in my opinion. Those 120/140mm radiators(sans X41) generally cost more or the same as air tower coolers, but don't do as good of a job, or are louder. You really need to get an X41 because of its thickness, or a 240mm radiator to get the most out of water cooling your CPU in my opinion.

I'm another person who has a 240mm radiator for their CPU, but only a 120mm radiator for my GPU.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Kukkaroinen
> 
> Go for Plan A. You want the heat from the GPU/G10 to be exhausted out of your chassis.


That was the more clever plan to me aswell. Thank you for clarifying it


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> That was the more clever plan to me aswell. Thank you for clarifying it


I suggest you try both and see what load temps are like. I found that for my setup it was better to have the radiators taking in cool air than exhausting hot air.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I suggest you try both and see what load temps are like. I found that for my setup it was better to have the radiators taking in cool air than exhausting hot air.


I'll see. Plan A looks better in theory but it could be otherwise. I'm glad to see that you guys didn't shoot my plans down right away which to me means that I can leave the roof closed hehe


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I suggest you try both and see what load temps are like. I found that for my setup it was better to have the radiators taking in cool air than exhausting hot air.


While that is often true for your core temps to be lower by a few C when having the radiator intaking cold air, it can adversely effect your VRM temps. Those who have cards that can monitor VRM temps have seen as much as a 15C swing in VRM temps simply switching from intake to exhaust on their radiators.


----------



## Gabe324

i got a g10 with a h50 and some vrm heatsinks , only problem is the vrm heatsinks dont stick at all . i am planning on getting a gtx 980ti also but i want one that is compatible with the kraken g10 and i want to be able to mount it without a shim.... also the card has to have the vrm heatsink on already..... what card should i get????


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabe324*
> 
> i got a g10 with a h50 and some vrm heatsinks , only problem is the vrm heatsinks dont stick at all . i am planning on getting a gtx 980ti also but i want one that is compatible with the kraken g10 and i want to be able to mount it without a shim.... also the card has to have the vrm heatsink on already..... what card should i get????


You just described the msi 980 ti. I have one on the way and the g10 should be pretty much plug and play


----------



## Gabe324

are you completely sure??? also will i benefit with the g10??? can i push higher then 1500mhz on core??? is their any custom bios yet???


----------



## Mnemo05

cancelled my plan on going sli with 980s + G10 on my mATX set up, pulled the trigger on a single 980Ti set up instead..

will test for coil whine and if all goes well, will slap my G10 later.. photos to follow!


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabe324*
> 
> are you completely sure??? also will i benefit with the g10??? can i push higher then 1500mhz on core??? is their any custom bios yet???


I'm not 100% sure because I can't find an image of the pcb. However 970 and 980 both have a midplate and a separate VRM heatsink so I'm confident enough to buy one.

Here is a guy who did it. Went flawlessly as he said. On that thread there are discussion of custom BIOSes aswell. I suggest you follow that thread =)
http://www.overclock.net/t/1561999/msi-980-ti-gaming-6g-card-overclocks-and-pictures/120#post_24126307


----------



## Sempre

I installed the G10s a while ago for my 290s but i thought i'd share the pictures with you.
At first I only installed it on one of my cards because the other one had a stripped screw and i couldn't remove the stock heat sink. I had to wait for more than a week for a stripped screw remover.
I got two H55s and a pair of Gelid VRM cooling kit.

Before:




I cleaned off the paste with 70% isopropyl pads


VRM Pics



Good heatsinks i must say, and easy installation with the screws for the long one:



Full view:


For the paste I used Gelid GC extreme

All done:


I chose a Rosewill Hyperborea PWM fan for the radiator which is a rebrand of the Akasa Apache:


Final picture of them in the case:


If you want to see more pictures click here for a full album on imgur: http://imgur.com/a/Snflu

The installation of the G10 with the block was tricky, but it'll be fine if you don't rush it.

As you can expect, the improvement was very noticeable. The cards are significantly quieter at load and runs cooler with no throttling.
Before, the card reached 94C and throttled, or i could raise the fan speed to avoid throttling but the cost would be a very noisy PC. I'm not exaggerating when i say the cards used to reach ~90C while watching a youtube video if I had it at a low fan speed and GPU acceleration enabled. I had to increase the fan speed to watch youtube









Now the cards only reach ~60C playing BF4 and ~70c while running benchmarks like Valley.

This upgrade cost me $117 per card excluding shipping costs, close to a price of just a full waterblock. Of course i do not expect this hybrid cooling to rival a full custom loop in terms of performance. But compared to reference cooling I'm happy. Overall the results are good and thanks to all who are helping in this thread. Special mention to @PinkoTheCommi for his great contribution here.


----------



## Mnemo05

just finished installing this on my 980ti

core temos are perfect, need to find a way now to cool the vrams as they get toasty


----------



## Exilon

What kind of delta between GPU core temperature and liquid temperature should I be seeing with an AIO? I think mine is about 10 C. Is that good or do I need to tighten the screws a bit?


----------



## MEC-777

Upgraded my system recently. Switched from the Node 304 to the NZXT S340 white and upgraded the motherboard from the Gigabyte GA-H87N Wifi to the Asus Z97-E (for possible future multi-GPU support). Full specs in sig.

Pics:







Few differences since those pics were taken: Top fan is now a fractal silent R3 140mm and the H55 rad is now run in push-pull with two Corsair SP120PE fans. Whole system runs very cool and super quiet.


----------



## Mnemo05

any recommendation for vram heatsinks?

I think the alu heatsinks I am using with my 980ti is beefy enough to cooldown the chips..

sidenote; anyone here aware what the tjmax for gddr5?


----------



## PiERiT

I might be giving this a go due to the noise level of my EVGA Hybrid. One thing I'm not clear on:

Does the copper shim method work on a reference 980 Ti? It seems less expensive and easier than getting heatsinks and thermal pads; why isn't it talked about more?


----------



## Vagrancy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiERiT*
> 
> I might be giving this a go due to the noise level of my EVGA Hybrid. One thing I'm not clear on:
> 
> Does the copper shim method work on a reference 980 Ti? It seems less expensive and easier than getting heatsinks and thermal pads; why isn't it talked about more?


Unless I'm mistaken the copper shim method is simply due to the fitment of whatever AIO cooler you use and the gap between the midplate and the cooler the shim works to offset that gap. I have the EVGA 980Ti with ACX cooling and as a result I need the shim.


----------



## PiERiT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> Unless I'm mistaken the copper shim method is simply due to the fitment of whatever AIO cooler you use and the gap between the midplate and the cooler the shim works to offset that gap. I have the EVGA 980Ti with ACX cooling and as a result I need the shim.


I guess I'm fuzzy on the definition of a midplate. I can't seem to find a description of what does and doesn't have it.


----------



## Vagrancy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiERiT*
> 
> I guess I'm fuzzy on the definition of a midplate. I can't seem to find a description of what does and doesn't have it.


Yeah there are pictures a few pages back that discuss it, its just essentially the built in cooling plate the cards have that covers the VRM depending on the make/model of the card they will differ in size and what is actually covered by them.


----------



## sakete

So for some reason my temps always go to 65C and stay there when playing a game (such as Witcher 3 at mostly maxed out settings at 1440p). This is with ambient temps in the 80F range. I need to do some more investigating to find out why it won't go lower than 65C. Even when I put on the AC which brings ambient temps down to the 70F range, it still won't drop the temps. I recently installed two fans on the X31 rad (2x Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm) and the temps didn't budge at all. Wondering if it the waterblock isn't making proper contact with the GPU and it's being slightly throttled. Will update when I have more results.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> So for some reason my temps always go to 65C and stay there when playing a game (such as Witcher 3 at mostly maxed out settings at 1440p). This is with ambient temps in the 80F range. I need to do some more investigating to find out why it won't go lower than 65C. Even when I put on the AC which brings ambient temps down to the 70F range, it still won't drop the temps. I recently installed two fans on the X31 rad (2x Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm) and the temps didn't budge at all. Wondering if it the waterblock isn't making proper contact with the GPU and it's being slightly throttled. Will update when I have more results.


What speed do you run your fans at? That can have a drastic effect on temps. I forgot to switch to my gaming fan profile once and left the rad fans running at about 700rpm. GPU hit 90 degrees before I realized it. Cranked them up to 1500rpm and temps dropped back to the low 60's. (running an R9 290).


----------



## FLaguy954

Okay, so I'm thinking gradually water cooling my components and the NZXT G10 seems like the most economical/easiest choice for my MSI 290.

What heat sinks are recommended for a MSI 290 Gaming OC (perhaps circle/box the areas that need heatsinks)? Also, what thermal adhesive is needed? I think the mid plate covers the VRMs on the left but I'm wondering if I would need additional cooling regardless.

Here is a picture of my card for reference:



I was thinking of getting a FDB (fluid dynamic bearing) fan for the bracket because I'm not really too fond of sleeve bearing fans ($10 for this Zalman 92mm fan):


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FLaguy954*
> 
> I was thinking of getting a FDB (fluid dynamic bearing) fan for the bracket because I'm not really too fond of sleeve bearing fans ($10 for this Zalman 92mm fan):


I have this fan on my wife's R9 290 TurboDuo w/ G10 & H55. Works great and fairly quiet (or maybe I can't hear it over the other fans in the case







).


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> So for some reason my temps always go to 65C and stay there when playing a game (such as Witcher 3 at mostly maxed out settings at 1440p). This is with ambient temps in the 80F range. I need to do some more investigating to find out why it won't go lower than 65C. Even when I put on the AC which brings ambient temps down to the 70F range, it still won't drop the temps. I recently installed two fans on the X31 rad (2x Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm) and the temps didn't budge at all. Wondering if it the waterblock isn't making proper contact with the GPU and it's being slightly throttled. Will update when I have more results.


I'm having essentially the same problem with mine. I'm using the G10 to mount a Corsair H90 onto my 980ti SC + ACX w/BP. It's perfectly normal under idle conditions (~32C), but it shoots up to ~60C during extended runs of Heaven/Valley and will hit 65 during The Witcher 3 -- all in a room with an ambient temperature of around 75F (~23C).

My suspicion is that the gap between the surface of the GPU chip and the surface of the midplate is about 1.22mm, whereas the copper shim I'm using is only 1.2mm. It looks flush when I run a straightedge over it and putting thermal paste over both sides of the shim closes the gap, but the couple hundredths of a millimeter gap is just enough to stop it from achieving full heat transfer.


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I'm having essentially the same problem with mine. I'm using the G10 to mount a Corsair H90 onto my 980ti SC + ACX w/BP. It's perfectly normal under idle conditions (~32C), but it shoots up to ~60C during extended runs of Heaven/Valley and will hit 65 during The Witcher 3 -- all in a room with an ambient temperature of around 75F (~23C).
> 
> My suspicion is that the gap between the surface of the GPU chip and the surface of the midplate is about 1.22mm, whereas the copper shim I'm using is only 1.2mm. It looks flush when I run a straightedge over it and putting thermal paste over both sides of the shim closes the gap, but the couple hundredths of a millimeter gap is just enough to stop it from achieving full heat transfer.


Ok, I'm using a 1.0mm shim, but I ordered a 1.2mm shim so I can rule out that possibility. Might take a while for that to arrive though.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Ok, I'm using a 1.0mm shim, but I ordered a 1.2mm shim so I can rule out that possibility. Might take a while for that to arrive though.


I've got two 140mm Noctua industrial fans in push/pull on the radiator blowing air out the back of my case, and the ambient temp inside the case is basically the same as the ambient in my office. So I'm reasonably certain that airflow isn't the issue. The shim is really the only thing I can think of at this point barring a defective AIO, which I don't think is the case. I really suspect that the gap is pretty much EXACTLY 1.2mm, which means that the AIO's heat plate rests on both my shim and the card's midplate and causes inefficient heat transfer.


----------



## crankyoldman

Hello, I bought for a pair of G10/H55 combos for a pair of SLI 680s and never managed to put them on. Because it runs so much hotter and louder, I'm getting really close to finally working up the nerve to take apart my reference EVGA 980TI. I have the aluminum heatsinks and the thermal pads just arrived (took right at 2 weeks from China for anyone who might be planning)

I've read in the thread to remove the adhesive that comes on the heatsinks, but didn't see any mention of what to use to do so. Sorry if I missed it (my eyesight isn't what it used to be).


----------



## Sorphius

Isopropyl Alcohol.


----------



## Southpaws

Hey all,

I've got an R9 290 clocked at 1200mhz and 1600mhz running with a Kraken G10 + an H90.

I was using GPU-Z while playing Witcher III, and I noticed that my VRM temp was hitting 127c!!!

I quickly shut the game down and made sure the fan was on, but it was.

I dont know why my VRM temps are getting so crazy high, but I need to fix this. Any ideas?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Southpaws*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I've got an R9 290 clocked at 1200mhz and 1600mhz running with a Kraken G10 + an H90.
> 
> I was using GPU-Z while playing Witcher III, and I noticed that my VRM temp was hitting 127c!!!
> 
> I quickly shut the game down and made sure the fan was on, but it was.
> 
> I dont know why my VRM temps are getting so crazy high, but I need to fix this. Any ideas?


Do you have heatsinks or a midplate over your VRMs? If not, that's your reason. If your card doesn't have a midplate to dissipate the heat they put out, you need to install aftermarket heatsinks.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiERiT*
> 
> I might be giving this a go due to the noise level of my EVGA Hybrid. One thing I'm not clear on:
> 
> Does the copper shim method work on a reference 980 Ti? It seems less expensive and easier than getting heatsinks and thermal pads; why isn't it talked about more?


I always encourage the copper shim method. It only costs $5, and lets you use to built in midplate associated with your card.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Sakete
@Sorphius

65C is a little warm, but you are playing the most graphically demanding game to date(Witcher3) so depending on your settings, overclock, and ambient, being in the 60C range is normal, especially if you are playing at 1440p. Try playing a different game and see what your temps look like.

What is weird, is that even with the AC on, and with adding fans your temps haven't changed. I would try and tighten the AIO down a little bit more, but don't overtighten. 65C is nothing to scoff at though, especially during Witcher3 and 1440p.

I don't think the shim is the problem, because I use a 0.8mm shim with my EVGA GTX 780 SC, and I have no issues. I use Gelid GC Extreme as my TIM, which is fairly thick. A thicker shim can't hurt, but I am not convinced that it is the issue. Usually when there is a problem with thickness and mounting, the temperatures let you know pretty fast because you are in the 80s and 90s. It wouldn't hurt to try and tighten it down a little more, just don't over tighten so that the card is bending or flexing.

Playing more graphically demanding games, at higher resolutions, with Vsync Off, and with overclocks is going to increase your temperatures. 60-65C is nothing to be worried about, it is a much better temperature than what you were getting with the stock cooler, and likely much more quiet.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Southpaws*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I've got an R9 290 clocked at 1200mhz and 1600mhz running with a Kraken G10 + an H90.
> 
> I was using GPU-Z while playing Witcher III, and I noticed that my VRM temp was hitting 127c!!!
> 
> I quickly shut the game down and made sure the fan was on, but it was.
> 
> I dont know why my VRM temps are getting so crazy high, but I need to fix this. Any ideas?


Gelid R9 290 VRM kit. Make sure that your 92mm fan is running at 100% speed.


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Sakete
> @Sorphius
> 
> 65C is a little warm, but you are playing the most graphically demanding game to date(Witcher3) so depending on your settings, overclock, and ambient, being in the 60C range is normal, especially if you are playing at 1440p. Try playing a different game and see what your temps look like.
> 
> What is weird, is that even with the AC on, and with adding fans your temps haven't changed. I would try and tighten the AIO down a little bit more, but don't overtighten. 65C is nothing to scoff at though, especially during Witcher3 and 1440p.
> 
> I don't think the shim is the problem, because I use a 0.8mm shim with my EVGA GTX 780 SC, and I have no issues. I use Gelid GC Extreme as my TIM, which is fairly thick. A thicker shim can't hurt, but I am not convinced that it is the issue. Usually when there is a problem with thickness and mounting, the temperatures let you know pretty fast because you are in the 80s and 90s. It wouldn't hurt to try and tighten it down a little more, just don't over tighten so that the card is bending or flexing.
> 
> Playing more graphically demanding games, at higher resolutions, with Vsync Off, and with overclocks is going to increase your temperatures. 60-65C is nothing to be worried about, it is a much better temperature than what you were getting with the stock cooler, and likely much more quiet.


I'm not running an overclock, first want to make sure I get good temps at stock before I attempt any form of overclocking







Already have it quite tight, but will try with a 1.2mm shim plate once it's in. Am using Arctic Silver 5 TIM. I am using a Gsync monitor with Gsync enabled during games, so I don't know if that somehow stress the videocard a bit more. Either way, at 65C with the AIO it's a lot quieter than with the stock fan, which was my main goal anyway


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> I'm not running an overclock, first want to make sure I get good temps at stock before I attempt any form of overclocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have it quite tight, but will try with a 1.2mm shim plate once it's in. Am using Arctic Silver 5 TIM. I am using a Gsync monitor with Gsync enabled during games, so I don't know if that somehow stress the videocard a bit more. Either way, at 65C with the AIO it's a lot quieter than with the stock fan, which was my main goal anyway


No wonder man, you are running at 1440p and up to144Hz. Your card is going to run hotter than others who are just gaming at 1080p and 60Hz. Your card has to work a lot harder than most people's.
I don't think there is an issue at all with mounting or anything, you have a very demanding monitor.

If you want to try and shave a few C off, you can try a different TIM, but temper expectations.


----------



## crankyoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Isopropyl Alcohol.


Doh, and thanks.


----------



## kukkaroinen

I figured I would sell my x61 and get another x41 for the cpu and mount it on the topside of the front. That way I could have a radiatorless fan pushing air to the GPU from the front.

Sounds like a plan right?


----------



## orlandomagik

So I am going to put a H55 on my new EVGA 980 Ti reference card this weekend, and as this is my first time doing this and I haven't seen any pics of my specific card here yet, I wanted to ask exactly where to put the heatsinks.

This picture is from a reddit user who did this mod, and I know he messed up here by using the preapplied tape ( I did buy Pinko's "alternate" thermal pads from upthread, the long grey ones), but this is my exact card. Is where he has them in the picture good, or are there additional areas I should put heatsinks. I bought two packs of the copper and aluminum ones (probably more than i needed but they were pretty cheap so what the hell). Thanks guys!


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> 
> 
> I figured I would sell my x61 and get another x41 for the cpu and mount it on the topside of the front. That way I could have a radiatorless fan pushing air to the GPU from the front.
> 
> Sounds like a plan right?


Yep. You want clean fresh air being supplied to the G10, if possible, to keep those VRMs cool.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Yep. You want clean fresh air being supplied to the G10, if possible, to keep those VRMs cool.


So I figured. I wouldn't lose much performance from going from x61 to x41.

The top fan on the front would have the rad which blows air straight to the gpu and the bottom would be fresh air. Heat rising wouldn't it somewhat mean that the fresh air reaches the gpu aswell?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlandomagik*
> 
> So I am going to put a H55 on my new EVGA 980 Ti reference card this weekend, and as this is my first time doing this and I haven't seen any pics of my specific card here yet, I wanted to ask exactly where to put the heatsinks.
> 
> This picture is from a reddit user who did this mod, and I know he messed up here by using the preapplied tape ( I did buy Pinko's "alternate" thermal pads from upthread, the long grey ones), but this is my exact card. Is where he has them in the picture good, or are there additional areas I should put heatsinks. I bought two packs of the copper and aluminum ones (probably more than i needed but they were pretty cheap so what the hell). Thanks guys!


Yup, that is how you want to place them. Hopefully the copper ones won't fall off... And honestly they aren't necessary at all because the VRAM doesn't get hot enough to require additional heatsinks. Its really the VRMs that you need to be focused on. Add the thermal pads to the VRMs, then aluminum heatsinks on the thermal pads and you're good to go.


----------



## orlandomagik

So which parts exactly in the photo are the VRMs? I see 11 places he has aluminum heatsinks, are all those necessary or recommended? Anywhere on there he is missing I should put them?
Thanks!


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> So I figured. I wouldn't lose much performance from going from x61 to x41.
> 
> The top fan on the front would have the rad which blows air straight to the gpu and the bottom would be fresh air. Heat rising wouldn't it somewhat mean that the fresh air reaches the gpu aswell?


Yep. You are correct. I have a very similar setup to what you are describing, but I also have a fan at the top as exhaust.


----------



## orlandomagik

Lol we both named out computer the same thing. Looks like yours is white/black themed as well? Looks nice! I will post some pics of mine when I get home from work as it is right now before I put the GPU water cooler on this weekend.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlandomagik*
> 
> So which parts exactly in the photo are the VRMs? I see 11 places he has aluminum heatsinks, are all those necessary or recommended? Anywhere on there he is missing I should put them?
> Thanks!


There's actually 12 heatsinks in that image (12 Vram modules).









The VRMs are the bank of small light-colored square components just to the right of the vertical line of chokes (silver squares) on the right-hand side of the board in that image. If you do a google image search for GPU VRM location, you'll see a number of labeled pictures showing the main VRM location.


----------



## orlandomagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Yep. You are correct. I have a very similar setup to what you are describing, but I also have a fan at the top as exhaust.


Guess I cant delete my last post and remake it? Anyway, it was supposed to be directed at you.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlandomagik*
> 
> Lol we both named out computer the same thing. Looks like yours is white/black themed as well? Looks nice! I will post some pics of mine when I get home from work as it is right now before I put the GPU water cooler on this weekend.


Ha! Just noticed that.









You know what they say, great minds think alike.









Would love to see your build. I think yours is a tad bit faster than mine though.







Friend of mine just bought the EVGA 980Ti ACX2.0 SC+ a few weeks ago. Says it's pretty beastly.


----------



## orlandomagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> There's actually 12 heatsinks in that image (12 Vram modules).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The VRMs are the bank of small light-colored square components just to the right of the vertical line of chokes (silver squares) on the right-hand side of the board in that image. If you do a google image search for GPU VRM location, you'll see a number of labeled pictures showing the main VRM location.


Not doubting you that there are 12 VRM modules, but I only saw 11 of the aluminum sinks in the photo. (4 in line at the top, 4 in line at the bottom, and 3 randomly out on the right) Are the 4 small squares in between where the top/bottom in-line heatsinks are the other 4 modules?


----------



## orlandomagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Ha! Just noticed that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know what they say, great minds think alike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to see your build. I think yours is a tad bit faster than mine though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Friend of mine just bought the EVGA 980Ti ACX2.0 SC+ a few weeks ago. Says it's pretty beastly.


Yeah my brother and I just both built new rigs, he has a i7 5820K, ASrock x99 mobo, ddr4 ram, and he bought the ACX2.0SC+ 980 Ti, and it sure is beastly. He put it together about a week before I ordered my parts(seeing him get it all pushed me over the edge to order haha), and in that time I saw Pinko's post on LTT and decided I'd rather get the superclocked reference card and put water on it and see how that fares.

I went a little crazy and bought as much white stuff as I could find (reasonably, I guess could have bought the HOF edition 980 Ti with the white PCB, but I wast about to drop a grand just on a GPU only for the white PCB) so I picked up the camouflage white ASUS motherboard I probably didnt need, and the *********** supply for the extra style points.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlandomagik*
> 
> Not doubting you that there are 12 VRM modules, but I only saw 11 of the aluminum sinks in the photo. (4 in line at the top, 4 in line at the bottom, and 3 randomly out on the right) Are the 4 small squares in between where the top/bottom in-line heatsinks are the other 4 modules?


Hmmm... Maybe we're not looking at the same picture then? Could you post up the image you're referring to?

Thanks. Want to make sure we're both on the same page.


----------



## orlandomagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Hmmm... Maybe we're not looking at the same picture then? Could you post up the image you're referring to?
> 
> Thanks. Want to make sure we're both on the same page.


 980tiSCnocooler 1731k .jpg file


I'm referring to this image, I added red circles and numbers as to what I was talking about


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlandomagik*
> 
> Yeah my brother and I just both built new rigs, he has a i7 5820K, ASrock x99 mobo, ddr4 ram, and he bought the ACX2.0SC+ 980 Ti, and it sure is beastly. He put it together about a week before I ordered my parts(seeing him get it all pushed me over the edge to order haha), and in that time I saw Pinko's post on LTT and decided I'd rather get the superclocked reference card and put water on it and see how that fares.
> 
> I went a little crazy and bought as much white stuff as I could find (reasonably, I guess could have bought the HOF edition 980 Ti with the white PCB, but I wast about to drop a grand just on a GPU only for the white PCB) so I picked up the camouflage white ASUS motherboard I probably didnt need, and the *********** supply for the extra style points.


Awesome. Lots of money in both your builds.









Mine was supposed to just be a "simple" upgrade from a Node 304 mITX machine to the full ATX motherboard and case (for possible future multi-GPU config (SLI-support)). You can see the progression build pics here: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/wjkTwP Those colored wires at the ends of the cables just had to go.







That's the point it became a full themed build. Named it for the colors and after John Snow's dire wolf in Game of Thrones.


----------



## orlandomagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Awesome. Lots of money in both your builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine was supposed to just be a "simple" upgrade from a Node 304 mITX machine to the full ATX motherboard and case (for possible future multi-GPU config (SLI-support)). You can see the progression build pics here: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/wjkTwP Those colored wires at the ends of the cables just had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the point it became a full themed build. Named it for the colors and after John Snow's dire wolf in Game of Thrones.


Ha, the yellow ones in picture 2? Yeah I get what you mean:thumb: . I actually was thinking I didnt want to name it something GoT/John Snow related, but then there was a field on the form that asked for a name and I panicked and the first thing that came to mind was Ghost, casue of the white + I used the name Ghost R34 on steam for awhile. Oh well I guess haha


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlandomagik*
> 
> 980tiSCnocooler 1731k .jpg file
> 
> 
> I'm referring to this image, I added red circles and numbers as to what I was talking about


Ok, we were looking at the same image. I took the original and labeled it accordingly. The Vram modules outlined in red (12 total), and the main VRMs outlined in green. The blue, I'm not sure which of those is what. The one on the far right might be a BIOS chip - which doesn't need cooling. The one near the top of the card might be the VRM for the memory modules - which, though it doesn't get as hot as the main VRMs, doesn't hurt to add a heatsink to it.


----------



## orlandomagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Ok, we were looking at the same image. I took the original and labeled it accordingly. The Vram modules outlined in red (12 total), and the main VRMs outlined in green. The blue, I'm not sure which of those is what. The one on the far right might be a BIOS chip - which doesn't need cooling. The one near the top of the card might be the VRM for the memory modules - which, though it doesn't get as hot as the main VRMs, doesn't hurt to add a heatsink to it.


Thanks! Here are some pics of my build as is, still have some cable mgmt to do with my optical drive(or might just remove it now that i have the OS installed), and obviously the GPU power cables were only temporary as I am putting the AIO on it later. Only thing I'm really unhappy with is all the open space on the right hand side of the mobo, not really sure what to do there.

DSC_0064.JPG 147k .JPG file


DSC_0066.JPG 215k .JPG file


DSC_0067.JPG 147k .JPG file


DSC_0069.JPG 205k .JPG file


DSC_0070.JPG 203k .JPG file


----------



## Exilon

I had some weather seal tape left over from insulating my window air conditioning kit, so put it to good use.

1) Taped off the side of the G10 with the NXZT logo to extend the range of air flow from the 92mm fan. It's been turned into a pseudo-blower with air being restricted by the tape on one side and the motherboard on the other side.

2) Taped off the gap between the AIO fan and the radiator to reduce wasted fan pressure.

My RAM sinks are getting more air flow and run quite a bit cooler (I can keep my finger on it indefinitely). The 2nd mod improved air flow through the radiator especially at higher RPMs and resulted in a respectable drop of fan RPM at the same temperature. At same fan RPM, I got a few degrees drop in GPU temperature.

Two really easy ghetto mods (took me 10 min) if you have some tape lying around. I wouldn't use duct tape as it leaves residue. Also watch for any serial number labels on the AIO and try not to tape over it as it will likely be damaged if you ever remove the tape.


----------



## Sorphius

That's a really cool idea re: taping up the gap between the G10 plate and your PCB. I've taped off radiators before, but never considered doing it to my G10 itself.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Yea, awesome idea using tape to create a wind tunnel of sorts. No wasted airflow! Great idea!


----------



## Exilon

Anyone had the included 92mm fan fail yet? It looks to be a 1500 rpm sleeve bearing fan, and sleeve bearings don't like to be mounted horizontally.

I'm considering replacing it with a 2000rpm fluid bearing fan (i.e noctua A9) just to have peace of mind about not blowing up my VRMs when the stock fan seizes up.


----------



## Sorphius

Mine didn't fail, but I replaced it preemptively with an NF-A9 out of the box due to noise concerns.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Anyone had the included 92mm fan fail yet? It looks to be a 1500 rpm sleeve bearing fan, and sleeve bearings don't like to be mounted horizontally.
> 
> I'm considering replacing it with a 2000rpm fluid bearing fan (i.e noctua A9) just to have peace of mind about not blowing up my VRMs when the stock fan seizes up.


Mine's been running fine. I run it at 100% constant 24/7. It's practically dead-silent anyways.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Anyone had the included 92mm fan fail yet? It looks to be a 1500 rpm sleeve bearing fan, and sleeve bearings don't like to be mounted horizontally.
> 
> I'm considering replacing it with a 2000rpm fluid bearing fan (i.e noctua A9) just to have peace of mind about not blowing up my VRMs when the stock fan seizes up.


I have plenty of sleeve bearing fans in my chassis mounted horizontally. Cooler Master Blade Master 120s and 92mm fans for over a year, without issue. If anything changes, I will report back.


----------



## dutchbrit84

Bit of a silly question.. but..

My g1 sniper z87 motherboard has 4 fan headers,

1 cpu_fan which im using for the cpu with a corsair h75...
2 fan headers for the h75
the left over fan is used to power 2 case fans.

what is the best way to power my new h55 for my g10? do i need some sort of psu molex to 4 or 3 pin splitter? or is it ok to split the cpu_fan and use it to power both the h75 & h55 ?

can someone please recommend me the right splitter/cable needed? would really appreciate it.

thanks


----------



## penguinzrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dutchbrit84*
> 
> Bit of a silly question.. but..
> 
> My g1 sniper z87 motherboard has 4 fan headers,
> 
> 1 cpu_fan which im using for the cpu with a corsair h75...
> 2 fan headers for the h75
> the left over fan is used to power 2 case fans.
> 
> what is the best way to power my new h55 for my g10? do i need some sort of psu molex to 4 or 3 pin splitter? or is it ok to split the cpu_fan and use it to power both the h75 & h55 ?
> 
> can someone please recommend me the right splitter/cable needed? would really appreciate it.
> 
> thanks


I'd use the Y-splitter for the H75 fans, and then the free one for the case fans.
Your H55's fans can share with the pump.
So:

1 CPU fan header for both H75 fans
1 non-CPU fan header for the H75 pump
1 non-CPU fan header for 2 case fans
1 non-CPU fan header for the H55 pump and fans

Both H75 and H55 should have come with Y-splitters, otherwise you can just get a generic one off Newegg or eBay or Amazon for cheap.


----------



## dutchbrit84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *penguinzrock*
> 
> I'd use the Y-splitter for the H75 fans, and then the free one for the case fans.
> Your H55's fans can share with the pump.
> So:
> 
> 1 CPU fan header for both H75 fans
> 1 non-CPU fan header for the H75 pump
> 1 non-CPU fan header for 2 case fans
> *1 non-CPU fan header for the H55 pump and fans*
> 
> Both H75 and H55 should have come with Y-splitters, otherwise you can just get a generic one off Newegg or eBay or Amazon for cheap.


Doesnt the h55 pump need constant full power though, i thought the fan headers dont run at full power all the time..


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dutchbrit84*
> 
> Bit of a silly question.. but..
> 
> My g1 sniper z87 motherboard has 4 fan headers,
> 
> 1 cpu_fan which im using for the cpu with a corsair h75...
> 2 fan headers for the h75
> the left over fan is used to power 2 case fans.
> 
> what is the best way to power my new h55 for my g10? do i need some sort of psu molex to 4 or 3 pin splitter? or is it ok to split the cpu_fan and use it to power both the h75 & h55 ?
> 
> can someone please recommend me the right splitter/cable needed? would really appreciate it.
> 
> thanks


Couple of ways you can do it. I would plug the pump and/or the 92mm fan directly into the PSU via molex adapters because they should be run at 100% at all times. Then the fan(s) for the H55 should be plugged into the motherboard so you can control their speed.


----------



## dutchbrit84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Couple of ways you can do it. I would plug the pump and/or the 92mm fan directly into the PSU via molex adapters because they should be run at 100% at all times. Then the fan(s) for the H55 should be plugged into the motherboard so you can control their speed.


Yup thats what i was thinking, can you please recommend me the exact adapter you would use? like an amazon link or something. would be a huge help.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dutchbrit84*
> 
> Doesnt the h55 pump need constant full power though, i thought the fan headers dont run at full power all the time..


You can go into your BIOS and set them to 100%.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dutchbrit84*
> 
> Yup thats what i was thinking, can you please recommend me the exact adapter you would use? like an amazon link or something. would be a huge help.


Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Molex-Computer-Connector-Y-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00DU8ZZ0O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1436481996&sr=8-4&keywords=molex+to+3pin+adapter

This will allow you to plug both the pump and 92mm fan directly into your PSU, not taking up any motherboard fan headers, and running them at 100% speed at all times.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Couple of ways you can do it. I would plug the pump and/or the 92mm fan directly into the PSU via molex adapters because they should be run at 100% at all times. Then the fan(s) for the H55 should be plugged into the motherboard so you can control their speed.


Yep. Just to add to this; I'd run all pumps (CPU and GPU) as well as the 92mm VRM fan on the G10 off of 12v molex directly from your PSU as they all need to (should) run at max. Then Y-split your H55 fans off one header, use the CPU fan header for the H75 fan and the 3rd and 4th headers for your case fans.

This is basically the way I have mine setup. Makes it easy to control all fans individually.


----------



## dutchbrit84

Thanks everyone for the advice. You've made what I need to do crystal clear. Appreciate it!


----------



## Mnemo05

are the nzxt 92mm fans any better than the stock fans the G10 come with?

I run my stock fan at 100% and they are perfectly fine.. I am wondering whether the nzxt ones will offer better airflow..

I am using it with a zotac 980ti amp btw


----------



## Tim Drake

So does anybody know of anybody / run an NZXT G10 on a MSI GTX 970 and if s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> are the nzxt 92mm fans any better than the stock fans the G10 come with?
> 
> I run my stock fan at 100% and they are perfectly fine.. I am wondering whether the nzxt ones will offer better airflow..
> 
> I am using it with a zotac 980ti amp btw


I was wondering this too as I will be buying the NZXT Kraken G10 at some pointi n the near future and wanted to know whether there was a point in upgrading the fan.

VRM temps mean a lot to me considering I will be BIOS modding my 980.


----------



## Vagrancy

Just got my copper shims in today from China, they seem kinda dirty so I guess I'll be getting some 99% alcohol to try and clean them up. I'm waiting on my pwn fan adapter and the heatsinks to get delivered from Amazon so hopefully I can start this next week. I decided not to hold off on waiting for the corsair hg10 as it seems it won't be ready till after August. I will need to move some stuff in my case around to make it fit though.



As shown in the photo I've got an h105 at the top so I'll probably have to move it to the front of the case with push/pull config then put the h75 on the rear exhausting. The H105 isn't technically compatible with the 350D because you have to offset it to make it fit so I'm hoping I won't run into any issues mounting it in the front.


----------



## Tim Drake

Anybody know where I can get cheap af watercoolers in the UK?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> Just got my copper shims in today from China, they seem kinda dirty so I guess I'll be getting some 99% alcohol to try and clean them up. I'm waiting on my pwn fan adapter and the heatsinks to get delivered from Amazon so hopefully I can start this next week. I decided not to hold off on waiting for the corsair hg10 as it seems it won't be ready till after August. I will need to move some stuff in my case around to make it fit though.
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the photo I've got an h105 at the top so I'll probably have to move it to the front of the case with push/pull config then put the h75 on the rear exhausting. The H105 isn't technically compatible with the 350D because you have to offset it to make it fit so I'm hoping I won't run into any issues mounting it in the front.
> 
> Also if anyone needs some 25x25x1mm copper shims I did order five so I'd be willing to sell 2-3 of them if people needed them right away (if advertising to sell isn't allowed please remove that portion). I think it took about 3 weeks for them to arrive from China.


You may try just flipping your H105 radiator around so that the tubes are on the other side, then mount your H75 as exhaust. You'd need to mount the "Pull" fan on the H75 outside the case if applicable, but that's how I made an H110i and H90 both fit in my Fractal R5.

Re: the 25x25x1mm shim -- I think you'll find that it's too thin. I used a 1.2mm shim when I initially mounted my H90 on my 980 TI, and I found that the AIO's heat plate ended up resting pretty much flush on the shim and the midplate. It still brought down my temps, but the heat transfer wasn't particularly efficient and I ended up running around 60C under load with the fans at ~75%. I replaced the 1.2mm shim yesterday with a 1.6mm one that I cut myself from a 260x26x1.6mm copper bar, and my temps under load are now ~50C with the fans at 50%.


----------



## Vagrancy

Hmm it was recommended to use the 25x25x1 so I'll still give it a shot and try I guess..although I do see they list 25x25x1.2mm ones as well but that's the largest I'm finding on ebay.


----------



## Sorphius

Different cards take different sizes, I think, but ever since the 780ti people have been saying that you need 25x25x1.5mm. I couldn't find 1.5mm either, which is why I ordered the 1.2, but like I said above.... it wasn't thick enough to give me full thermal transfer. If you like, you can PM me your address and I'll be happy to cut off another piece of my bar and mail you a 25x25x1.6. I've got enough metal left in this bar to make another six or seven shims.


----------



## JakXLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> My MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G should be here by next Weds. Can't wait to get it and slap my G10 + X41 on it


I have that card as well. Does the Kraken G10 work on it? I don't want to buy until I know that.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> are the nzxt 92mm fans any better than the stock fans the G10 come with?
> 
> I run my stock fan at 100% and they are perfectly fine.. I am wondering whether the nzxt ones will offer better airflow..
> 
> I am using it with a zotac 980ti amp btw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> So does anybody know of anybody / run an NZXT G10 on a MSI GTX 970 and if s
> I was wondering this too as I will be buying the NZXT Kraken G10 at some pointi n the near future and wanted to know whether there was a point in upgrading the fan.
> 
> VRM temps mean a lot to me considering I will be BIOS modding my 980.


The 92mm VRM fan that comes with the G10 is an NZXT fan, is quite good in terms of air flow (very good VRM temps on my OC'd and BIOS modded R9 290) and is practically silent at 100%. There's really no need to change it with anything else unless you're going for a certain color scheme.


----------



## Mnemo05

my bad, i meant to say noctuas.. are the 92mm noctuas any better than the stock? noise to aiflow ratio


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JakXLT*
> 
> I have that card as well. Does the Kraken G10 work on it? I don't want to buy until I know that.


I have the exactly same setup coming to me (msi 980ti 6g, kraken g10 and kraken x41) and I can assure you the Kraken g10 fits like a glove. No shim nor additional VRM cooling required.

You just keep the midplate and the VRM heatsink on and slap that g10 on it. Keep the backplate on aswell but you need to either thin down or remove the foam from the g10 backplate. Personally I'm buying some custom screws so I can mount the g10 straight into the msi backplate without the g10 backplate.


----------



## JakXLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> I have the exactly same setup coming to me (msi 980ti 6g, kraken g10 and kraken x41) and I can assure you the Kraken g10 fits like a glove. No shim nor additional VRM cooling required.
> 
> You just keep the midplate and the VRM heatsink on and slap that g10 on it. Keep the backplate on aswell but you need to either thin down or remove the foam from the g10 backplate. Personally I'm buying some custom screws so I can mount the g10 straight into the msi backplate without the g10 backplate.










Could you link me to the kind of screws I need to do that? My card is still on the way and I probably can't buy everything I need for the kraken until I sell my 7950 but I like to do my shopping ahead of time.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JakXLT*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you link me to the kind of screws I need to do that? My card is still on the way and I probably can't buy everything I need for the kraken until I sell my 7950 but I like to do my shopping ahead of time.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F33LFTE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00F33LFTE&linkCode=as2&tag=byogamingpc-20&linkId=KZNHHQFXAAPCPRV4

These screws were used in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlGMhASE22w

I know it's a 980 Strix but same screws should be ok. I bought mine from a private seller here in Finland. I'd think any M2.5x25mm screws will do. If not, they only cost me 2.5€









I didn't straight out recommend the custom screws as I honestly do not know for a fact if they'll fit. We'll see next week.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JakXLT*
> 
> I have that card as well. Does the Kraken G10 work on it? I don't want to buy until I know that.


The Gaming 6G is actually perfect for the G10. It has a midplate to keep your VRM temps down, and it doesn't even require a shim to mount due to the midplate's design.


----------



## JakXLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F33LFTE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00F33LFTE&linkCode=as2&tag=byogamingpc-20&linkId=KZNHHQFXAAPCPRV4
> 
> These screws were used in this video:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlGMhASE22w
> 
> I know it's a 980 Strix but same screws should be ok. I bought mine from a private seller here in Finland. I'd think any M2.5x25mm screws will do. If not, they only cost me 2.5€
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't straight out recommend the custom screws as I honestly do not know for a fact if they'll fit. We'll see next week.


Do let me know if they work, I'd like to mount mine like that as well









On another note, are there any red LED fans that are good enough for this?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> my bad, i meant to say noctuas.. are the 92mm noctuas any better than the stock? noise to aiflow ratio


i replaced the stock fan with a Noctua NF-A8. It's a little bit quieter under load (albeit not extremely so), and the airflow is comparable. As others have said, though... The stock fan really isn't that loud.


----------



## masteratarms

I'm thinking the 7950 - 280x is what I would like to upgrade to but many need a shim. I was looking here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_graphics_processing_units#Radeon_HD_7xxx_Series

and Radeon HD 7970 Jan 9, 2012 Tahiti XT GCN 1.0 28 4313 352

352mm squared or 3.5 centimeters is almost double a 20x20mm copper shim and still bigger than 25x25mm which is less common. Is it recommended to use a shim of this size?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Maybe EVGA is making thicker mid plates these days. I have the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler and I use a 0.8mm shim and it worked perfectly with temps never exceeding 50C unless I use DSR/turn Vsync off. In the future I will start recommending thicker shims.

You can keep the midplate and backplate of a GPU by thinning down, or completely removing the included foam pad that comes on the G10's mounting plate.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Maybe EVGA is making thicker mid plates these days. I have the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler and I use a 0.8mm shim and it worked perfectly with temps never exceeding 50C unless I use DSR/turn Vsync off. In the future I will start recommending thicker shims.


I can confirm that 0.8mm is definitely NOT thick enough for the EVGA 980 TI ACX SC. I ordered a 1.2mm shim for mine (since it was the thickest 25x25 I could find), and at that thickness the AIO's cooling plate ended up resting flush against both the shim and the midplate. It wasn't a huge issue since the plate was still making contact with the shim, but having it also contact the midplate led to inefficient heat transfer and gave me temps around 60c in Heaven and 65c while playing Witcher 3, with my fans cranked up to ~75%.

This week I ordered a 260x26x1.6mm copper bar that I cut off a 26mm piece from. After installing the new shim that I made, my temps are ~49c in Heaven and ~53c in Witcher 3 with the same clock speeds and a much more conservative (55%) fan profile.

Edit: I'm using a Corsair H90 as my AIO, with the pump header plugged directly into my PSU to keep it running flat-out all the time.


----------



## Exilon

Does a 15C liquid temp delta sound about right for 300W? With NT-H1 and a X61, I'm getting 5C delta between liquid and GPU for a total of 20C idle to load delta.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> I'm thinking the 7950 - 280x is what I would like to upgrade to but many need a shim. I was looking here:
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_graphics_processing_units#Radeon_HD_7xxx_Series
> 
> and Radeon HD 7970 Jan 9, 2012 Tahiti XT GCN 1.0 28 4313 352
> 
> 352mm squared or 3.5 centimeters is almost double a 20x20mm copper shim and still bigger than 25x25mm which is less common. Is it recommended to use a shim of this size?


352mm^2 is 18mm x 18mm


----------



## missalaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JakXLT*
> 
> I have that card as well. Does the Kraken G10 work on it? I don't want to buy until I know that.


Pretty much what everyone who responded before me said. It does work perfectly without having to buy any extra stuff. You'll just need to remove the square foam backing on the back piece that goes behind the backplate to make it work.


----------



## rfarmer

Bit hard to see but that is vrm cooling on my GTX 970 with a 40mm Noctua fan sitting right below the heatsink.


----------



## Pyro_Teknic

getting ready to put my g10 on my evga 970 sc acx this afternoon. just wanna double check i dont need a shim or anything crazy


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pyro_Teknic*
> 
> getting ready to put my g10 on my evga 970 sc acx this afternoon. just wanna double check i dont need a shim or anything crazy




I found this picture, doesn't look like you will need a shim. It does have the vrm on the left side of the gpu like most 970's so it would be a good idea to get some heatsinks and an additional fan for cooling them.


----------



## Vagrancy

Doesn't look like you'll need a shim since that midplate isn't around the GPU chip at all. The shim is needed when certain midplates by the chip cause their to be a gap.


----------



## Pyro_Teknic

everything installed and temps/noise are great!! plus i now have ghetto rig to my name XD
so far idling just above 30c and loading just shy of 50c doing furmark


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pyro_Teknic*
> 
> everything installed and temps/noise are great!! plus i now have ghetto rig to my name XD
> so far idling just above 30c and loading just shy of 50c doing furmark


Very nice! And an excellent job getting that fan to be blowing over your VRMs without spending additional money, excellent job. Only thing I will say is please don't use Furmark, it has been known to brick cards. Use Unigine Heaven or Valley in order to benchmark/stress test. All in all, really happy that you are pleased with your G10, and it looks fantastic!


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pyro_Teknic*
> 
> everything installed and temps/noise are great!! plus i now have ghetto rig to my name XD
> so far idling just above 30c and loading just shy of 50c doing furmark


Looks awesome!

What water cooler is that?


----------



## Pyro_Teknic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Looks awesome!
> 
> What water cooler is that?


H50 on gpu and h100i on cpu. Had to shave a bunch off the h50 to get it thru the kraken bracket


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pyro_Teknic*
> 
> everything installed and temps/noise are great!! plus i now have ghetto rig to my name XD
> so far idling just above 30c and loading just shy of 50c doing furmark


Nice setup.









Just thinking, you should probably flip your fans around so it's exhausting all the hot air outside the case instead of inside. Under load it can kick out a heck of a lot of hot air.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Hey, I have a question - is the G10 compatible with a reference 980Ti? The exact model is the EVGA GTX 980Ti Superclocked, thanks


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey, I have a question - is the G10 compatible with a reference 980Ti? The exact model is the EVGA GTX 980Ti Superclocked, thanks


Yes, but you'll want some thermal pads and aftermarket heatsinks to ensure that your VRMs are properly cooled.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Yes, but you'll want some thermal pads and aftermarket heatsinks to ensure that your VRMs are properly cooled.


That is understandable, I just wanted to know about the compatibility







I am considering the G10, because the Hybrid kit availability sucks and only other option would be getting the TitanX ACX cooler


----------



## JakXLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> That is understandable, I just wanted to know about the compatibility
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am considering the G10, because the Hybrid kit availability sucks and only other option would be getting the TitanX ACX cooler


If you're looking for options, I believe PPCS still has the original Arctic Hybrid. You know, the one that didn't suck









Does not look as sexy as the G10 though, also not 100% sure it's compatible.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JakXLT*
> 
> If you're looking for options, I believe PPCS still has the original Arctic Hybrid. You know, the one that didn't suck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does not look as sexy as the G10 though.


I believe that wouldn't fit without serious modification of the mid-plate... because the EVGA hybrid has a slightly raised copper block and regular AiO coolers are flat all the way...


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> I believe that wouldn't fit without serious modification of the mid-plate... because the EVGA hybrid has a slightly raised copper block and regular AiO coolers are flat all the way...


The GTX 980 ti SC doesn't HAVE a mid-plate. Hence needing the thermal padding and heatsinks to cool your VRMs.


----------



## Pyro_Teknic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Nice setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just thinking, you should probably flip your fans around so it's exhausting all the hot air outside the case instead of inside. Under load it can kick out a heck of a lot of hot air.


ya i realized this last night doing some gaming after watching my cpu temps climb cuz the h100 is eating gpu hot air. gonna get em flipped today


----------



## Spectre-

anyone here know if you can fit the G10 onto the R9 fury cards?


----------



## Vagrancy

is that an older model H50? Only reason I ask is 1 its got the older style tubes and two the G10 support shows the h50 is supported if its model CW-9060006-WW

I decided to purchase the H50 CW-9060006-WW because it was $30 cheaper than the H75 and I wanted to be a bit thrifty.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> The GTX 980 ti SC doesn't HAVE a mid-plate. Hence needing the thermal padding and heatsinks to cool your VRMs.


Say what? Reference card without a mid-plate?


----------



## Someone09

Hey there,

currently considering upgrading my 980Ti ACX 2.0 with either a G10 or a Raijintek Morpheus and have a few questions regarding the G10.

My plan is to keep the back- and midplate of course and use an H75 with the G10.


I know I need a copper shim. But I can only find 0.8mm and 1.0mm thick ones over here. Are 1.0mm enough to compensate for the midplate?
According to that installation video for reusing the back- and midplate a few pages ago, I also need new screws and washers to compensate for the thickness of the plates. Can anyone confirm this or can I reuse some of the mounting kit that comes with the G10?
I also want to replace the stock G10 fan but I am not thaaat much a fan of Noctua fans. Does anybody know if those 92mm BQ Shadow Wing fans can be used? I think I remember reading somewhere that the BQ anti-vibration mounting makes using them on a G10 rather difficult.
Can someone, who already has a 980Ti cooled by an G10, report back on how this setup effected the overclockability? I mean, of course it´s cooler and quieter but did it actually benefit the overclock (assuming the chip ain´t a dud of course)?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Hey there,
> 
> currently considering upgrading my 980Ti ACX 2.0 with either a G10 or a Raijintek Morpheus and have a few questions regarding the G10.
> 
> My plan is to keep the back- and midplate of course and use an H75 with the G10.
> 
> 
> I know I need a copper shim. But I can only find 0.8mm and 1.0mm thick ones over here. Are 1.0mm enough to compensate for the midplate?
> According to that installation video for reusing the back- and midplate a few pages ago, I also need new screws and washers to compensate for the thickness of the plates. Can anyone confirm this or can I reuse some of the mounting kit that comes with the G10?
> I also want to replace the stock G10 fan but I am not thaaat much a fan of Noctua fans. Does anybody know if those 92mm BQ Shadow Wing fans can be used? I think I remember reading somewhere that the BQ anti-vibration mounting makes using them on a G10 rather difficult.
> Can someone, who already has a 980Ti cooled by an G10, report back on how this setup effected the overclockability? I mean, of course it´s cooler and quieter but did it actually benefit the overclock (assuming the chip ain´t a dud of course)?
> Thanks in advance.


1) 1mm will not work. 1.2mm can suffice, but you still won't get efficient heat transfer. You really need at least 1.5mm to get peak thermal performance. I made my own shim by cutting off a piece from a 260x26x1.6mm copper bar. If you PM me your shipping info If be happy to drop one in the mail for you.

2) I used the stock mounting kit (same card as yours) and just removed the foam pad from the kraken's back plate. Worked like a charm.

3) I used Noctua so I can't really speak to that. Honestly the stock fan isn't so bad though...

4) I never even tried the stock EVGA cooler aside from making sure the card didbt arrive bricked, but anecdotal Data in the 980ti owner's thread seems to indicate about an extra 20mhz of overclocking headroom per 10 degrees Celsius. Considering a g10 mod with good case airflow will get you down to around 50c, that equates to 40-60 mhz at stock voltage. If you flash a custom bios to override the voltage limits, you can potentially get more. Silicon Gods willing, of course...


----------



## crankyoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Say what? Reference card without a mid-plate?


Looking at the EVGA directions for installing their hybrid cooler, I thought the reference blower versions might have midplates. But, it appears that those instructions have you dismantling the shroud in order to have the reference lower left behind (screenshot from the directions .pdf).



Removing the entire reference cooler leaves the entire surface exposed - as seen in other pictures in this thread.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crankyoldman*
> 
> Looking at the EVGA directions for installing their hybrid cooler, I thought the reference blower versions might have midplates. But, it appears that those instructions have you dismantling the shroud in order to have the reference lower left behind (screenshot from the directions .pdf).
> 
> 
> 
> Removing the entire reference cooler leaves the entire surface exposed - as seen in other pictures in this thread.


^^

Taking off the reference cooler to install the g10 bracket will leave you with an exposed PCB. If you aren't comfortable adding extra heatsinks, you might consider waiting another month or so to see what Corsair does with their hg980. Otherwise, you'll want to get a card (MSI Gaming, EVGA ACX, etc) with a midplate.


----------



## DR4G00N

Finished strapping my H75 to my Gigabyte 780 Ti.

Heatsinks installed.


Installed in rig. I'm only using one fan for now and it's controlled via my cpu fan header.


Close up.


It works great! core temp only peaks at 52c @ 1305MHz 1.212v










*And, yes I'm aware my cable management could use some work but I don't care enough to clean it up...







*


----------



## Vagrancy

As far as overlocking goes I'll just provide this.

http://forums.evga.com/STATEMENT-BY-KINGPIN-THAT-PROVES-900-SERIES-DOES-NOT-SCALE-WITH-VOLTAGE-NO-MATTER-BRAND-m2362059.aspx

Basically the Asic score screen with the lower/higher ratings means nothing anymore. You essentially need a high ASIC Score 70%+ to get the best results. My 980Ti sadly is measly 63.5


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Finished strapping my H75 to my Gigabyte 780 Ti.
> 
> Heatsinks installed.
> 
> *And, yes I'm aware my cable management could use some work but I don't care enough to clean it up...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


You have your GTX 780 Ti on top of a 7950 box? Sacrilege.









Looks good.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You have your GTX 780 Ti on top of a 7950 box? Sacrilege.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good.


Thanks!










Haha, that was one badass 7950... before it died







Now it's just sitting in that box.

Unfortunately my krakens fan started rattling.







I'll probably just unplug it, my case has very good airflow so it should be ok. (Plus there's a 120mm fan right below it)


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> 1) 1mm will not work. 1.2mm can suffice, but you still won't get efficient heat transfer. You really need at least 1.5mm to get peak thermal performance. I made my own shim by cutting off a piece from a 260x26x1.6mm copper bar. If you PM me your shipping info If be happy to drop one in the mail for you.


Thanks for the help.
To be honest, I somehow thought 1.2mm is what I should aim for and didn´t even look at bigger ones. Fortunately, I found 1.5mm ones, too. So, I am good to go in that department.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> 2) I used the stock mounting kit (same card as yours) and just removed the foam pad from the kraken's back plate. Worked like a charm.


Just to clarifiy, you used the G10 backplate together with the EVGA backplate?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> 3) I used Noctua so I can't really speak to that. Honestly the stock fan isn't so bad though...


I afraid I will just be too lazy to replace the stock fan lateron if it turns out to be too loud for me.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> To be honest, I somehow thought 1.2mm is what I should aim for and didn´t even look at bigger ones. Fortunately, I found 1.5mm ones, too. So, I am good to go in that department.


Awesome. 1.5mm will be great. The gap between the gpu face and the surface of the midplate is pretty much EXACTLY 1.2mm, so you'll still be pulling some heat from the mid-plate with a thinner one.
Quote:


> Just to clarifiy, you used the G10 backplate together with the EVGA backplate?


Yep. The g10's mounting plate has a ~1/8" foam pad on it that you can either trim down or remove entirely. The nuts that hold the bracket in plate also have rubber washers that you can remove. I did both and have room to spare even with the EVGA backplate still in place.
Quote:


> I afraid I will just be too lazy to replace the stock fan lateron if it turns out to be too loud for me.


Fair enough. Just find a 92mm fan you like and pop it in.


----------



## Someone09

Thanks for the help.


----------



## dutchbrit84

Finally bought and installed the G10 on my MSI GTX 970. So far so good, really happy with the decreased temps and the silent noise levels.

Only thing im not sure about and probably should have done more research is the foam pads thats near the NZXT fan, they're about 5mm too big and they stop the bracket from being aligned with the card.. is it normal to shave them down a little to balance it out?

I made a very basic but effective pci fan too for the vrms, mounted a 120mm case fan to some wood, tie wrapped that to a left over pci cover and boom.. a perfectly placed fan blowing air onto those vrm's.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dutchbrit84*
> 
> Finally bought and installed the G10 on my MSI GTX 970. So far so good, really happy with the decreased temps and the silent noise levels.
> 
> Only thing im not sure about and probably should have done more research is the foam pads thats near the NZXT fan, they're about 5mm too big and they stop the bracket from being aligned with the card.. is it normal to shave them down a little to balance it out?
> 
> I made a very basic but effective pci fan too for the vrms, mounted a 120mm case fan to some wood, tie wrapped that to a left over pci cover and boom.. a perfectly placed fan blowing air onto those vrm's.


They're Just there for stabilization. You can trim them down or even remove them entirely.


----------



## Vagrancy

I'm still waiting on my newegg package to get here with the thermal paste and pwn fan adapter so I got bored and sleeved the coolermaster fan. I couldn't get all the way back so you can see some of the original wiring colors but overall I think it came out pretty good.

Also, big shoutout to Sorphius for sending out the 25x25x1.5shim. You rock dude.


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting on my newegg package to get here with the thermal paste and pwn fan adapter so I got bored and sleeved the coolermaster fan. I couldn't get all the way back so you can see some of the original wiring colors but overall I think it came out pretty good.
> 
> Also, big shoutout to Sorphius for sending out the 25x25x1.5shim. You rock dude.


Isn't that fan on backwards?


----------



## Vagrancy

haha you are indeed correct and I have resolved that minor mistake =P


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> Isn't that fan on backwards?


Maybe he wants to suck the hot air away from the VRM instead of blowing the VRMs.


----------



## masteratarms

I've got a way to control the 4 fans on my radiator from the GPU fan header. First of all you need "Gelid Solutions 4 Pin PWM Adaptor" http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161417062000?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showp...odid=CB-070-AK OcUK Tech Labs 240mm+ Kraken Extreme
240mm rad (http://asetek.com/desktop/cpu-coolers/570lx/), part of a OcUK bundle with Kraken G10.

I've gone for 1 of these:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CB-070-AK Akasa FLEXA FP5

with 2x https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showp...odid=BU-018-SV Three Fan Bundle - Silverstone SST-FQ121 FQ Series 1225 PWM

I'll use 4 in push pull on the rad and 2 push pull on the CPU cooler. I have a control over the CPU fans via Gigabyte SIV (http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=16102.msg96238#msg96238) and the PWM output on my GPU will control the 4 fans on RAD via Akasa Flexa FP5. I have 2 other fans over the VRMs on my GPU and have manual control of them with SIV.


----------



## trento

Here's my setup, on a R9 270X. Corsair Air 240 placed horizontally.

VRAM temps are manageable, mid 60s. The 2 80mm fans helped cools things further.


----------



## Mnemo05

I found a shop selling a 92mmx38mm fan that I may use on my G1 0 to cool the vrm of my 980ti further.. fan is beefy but needs to be tamed with a controller or something


----------



## wgncubswin

Does anyone have an extra 25mmx25mmx1.5mm copper shim? I waited almost 3 weeks for mine to ship from China, but instead of the shims I received a phone case for a Galaxy 3. If you PM me, we can work out an arrangement.

EDIT: Sorphius is awesome.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> I found a shop selling a 92mmx38mm fan that I may use on my G1 0 to cool the vrm of my 980ti further.. fan is beefy but needs to be tamed with a controller or something


Will it fit? 38mm is awfully thick. IIRC there's only about ~14mm of clearance between my 92x25mm fan and the 980ti's midplate. Unless you find a way to jerry-rig it on the outside of the mounting bracket, I don't think you'll have sufficient clearance between the fan and the PCB to move the air.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wgncubswin*
> 
> Does anyone have an extra 25mmx25mmx1.5mm copper shim? I waited almost 3 weeks for mine to ship from China, but instead of the shims I received a phone case for a Galaxy 3. If you PM me, we can work out an arrangement.


U haz PM.


----------



## MEC-777

Wanted to share something with you guys that you might find of interest...

Recently just picked up two Deepcool GF120 PWM fans to replace the two Fractal R series 140mm fans I was using prior. You might wonder, why would I switch from 140 to 120mm fans? Well I wasn't happy with the Fractal fans since they are only 3-pin and my motherboard can't control them properly (one just runs at 100% all the time) and even running at 100% they didn't feel like they were pushing as much air as I'd like. The H55 on my G10 needs lots of fresh air fed to it and judging by the dust accumulation on the side panel window after some time, it looked as though the Fractal fans were more "spraying" the air out at a wider angle rather than a more focused/directional flow.

Well let me tell you, these GF120's not only push more air but they're also very quiet. Just in placing my hand further back in the case I can already tell they have a much more focused and stronger airflow. With just one of these in the lower front intake slot in the S340 (H60 for the CPU is mounted above it) I can feel a stead flow of cold air being blown straight at the intake for the H55 at the back. With the Fractal R fans, I could not feel this strong of air flow that far back in the case, even at 100%. I'm also using one of these GF120's at the top as an exhaust, and with PWM I can now control it to run half the speed of the intake fan to maintain positive pressure inside (to reduce dust build-up). They're $20 each, though I've seen them for $17 a few places, but worth every penny, IMO.

Looking at the flow and pressure specs (this is where it becomes relevant for us G10 users), not only do these have a higher CFM than almost any other 120mm fan I've seen (~80CFM) but also a surprisingly high static pressure rating of 3.7mmH2O, which is higher than the Corsair's SP120 performance edition fans! (3.1mmH2O). Deepcool packages these fans (only with red blades) with their Maelstrom 120 AIO cooler. Reviews of that cooler show it to be a bit lacking in performance, but I believe the reason for that is the Maelstroms pump runs at a significantly slower rpm of 2800, compared to 4500+ like most other manufacturers.

This has me thinking now... If they perform that much better than the Fractal R series 140mm as air-flow case fans, then I wonder if they could also out-perform the Corsair SP120's as rad fans, given the higher SP rating? On paper, the numbers suggest that they can, but in practice we often find otherwise. So, I will be testing this extensively with the H55 on my overclocked R9 290 over the next few days and will share the results in a formal review layout.

In the mean time, if you're looking for a good, premium 120mm case fan, these are really excellent. Right up there with Noctua (yeah I said it) only these look much better, IMO.


----------



## HonestIago

I'm planning on mounting a g10 on the new Zotac 980ti AMP! I am fully aware of the vrm cooling problem with the g10. The reason why I want to go with the zotac 980ti AMP is becuase when I saw this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdXycmVDwmY, I saw that there was a heatsink on the vrm already. The real question I have is when you know a GPU needs a copper shim, and if I need to add some more thermal pads and heatsinks to the vrm/vram when its already covered.


----------



## FLaguy954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to share something with you guys that you might find of interest...
> 
> Recently just picked up two Deepcool GF120 PWM fans to replace the two Fractal R series 140mm fans I was using prior. You might wonder, why would I switch from 140 to 120mm fans? Well I wasn't happy with the Fractal fans since they are only 3-pin and my motherboard can't control them properly (one just runs at 100% all the time) and even running at 100% they didn't feel like they were pushing as much air as I'd like. The H55 on my G10 needs lots of fresh air fed to it and judging by the dust accumulation on the side panel window after some time, it looked as though the Fractal fans were more "spraying" the air out at a wider angle rather than a more focused/directional flow.
> 
> Well let me tell you, these GF120's not only push more air but they're also very quiet. Just in placing my hand further back in the case I can already tell they have a much more focused and stronger airflow. With just one of these in the lower front intake slot in the S340 (H60 for the CPU is mounted above it) I can feel a stead flow of cold air being blown straight at the intake for the H55 at the back. With the Fractal R fans, I could not feel this strong of air flow that far back in the case, even at 100%. I'm also using one of these GF120's at the top as an exhaust, and with PWM I can now control it to run half the speed of the intake fan to maintain positive pressure inside (to reduce dust build-up). They're $20 each, though I've seen them for $17 a few places, but worth every penny, IMO.
> 
> Looking at the flow and pressure specs (this is where it becomes relevant for us G10 users), not only do these have a higher CFM than almost any other 120mm fan I've seen (~80CFM) but also a surprisingly high static pressure rating of 3.7mmH2O, which is higher than the Corsair's SP120 performance edition fans! (3.1mmH2O). Deepcool packages these fans (only with red blades) with their Maelstrom 120 AIO cooler. Reviews of that cooler show it to be a bit lacking in performance, but I believe the reason for that is the Maelstroms pump runs at a significantly slower rpm of 2800, compared to 4500+ like most other manufacturers.
> 
> This has me thinking now... If they perform that much better than the Fractal R series 140mm as air-flow case fans, then I wonder if they could also out-perform the Corsair SP120's as rad fans, given the higher SP rating? On paper, the numbers suggest that they can, but in practice we often find otherwise. So, I will be testing this extensively with the H55 on my overclocked R9 290 over the next few days and will share the results in a formal review layout.
> 
> In the mean time, if you're looking for a good, premium 120mm case fan, these are really excellent. Right up there with Noctua (yeah I said it) only these look much better, IMO.


I just purchased two of these to go on my Hyper Evo 212 and wow, they are the best fans I have ever had. These fans are literally built for radiators (and push enough air to be fantastic case fans) and can be seen on Deepcool-branded AIO coolers (but in red):


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HonestIago*
> 
> I'm planning on mounting a g10 on the new Zotac 980ti AMP! I am fully aware of the vrm cooling problem with the g10. The reason why I want to go with the zotac 980ti AMP is becuase when I saw this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdXycmVDwmY, I saw that there was a heatsink on the vrm already. The real question I have is when you know a GPU needs a copper shim, and if I need to add some more thermal pads and heatsinks to the vrm/vram when its already covered.


You need a shim for cards (namely EVGA) with a midplate that extends around and screws into the PCB near the actual chip, since the midplate keeps the AIO's heat plate from making contact with the gpu chip. You won't need one for the Zotac, nor do you need one for the MSI Gaming.

As for extra thermal pads and heat sinks... They're only required for cards that don't have a midplate, since the midplate itself serves as a heat sink.


----------



## Vagrancy

so my g10 is now on, but I'm a little concerned, the AIO cooler itself feels pretty hot to the touch as well as the tubing. I know GPUs run hot but is this ''normal''?

After checking my temps, running heaven its hitting 76-77 degrees which is way off. Something isn't right here.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> so my g10 is now on, but I'm a little concerned, the AIO cooler itself feels pretty hot to the touch as well as the tubing. I know GPUs run hot but is this ''normal''?
> 
> After checking my temps, running heaven its hitting 76-77 degrees which is way off. Something isn't right here.


WAY too hot. Make sure your pump is running 100% (plug it into the PSU preferably). Also, did you put thermal paste between both the gpu and the shim AND the shim and the AIO?

Your temps shouldn't be higher than mid-50s under load, and probably even lower than that.

Edit: Looking at your picture, it appears that you have the AIO pump plugged into one of your MoBo's fan headers. Make sure -- either in the bios or with a program like Speedfan -- that you have that header set to 100%. Also, can you possibly send a picture of your AIO making contact with your shim? You'll want to make sure that it's properly seated. On mine I can very clearly see the heatplate touching the shim.


----------



## Vagrancy

Yeah I put thermal paste on both sides of the shim. The foam pad even after I shaved it down a bit is still pretty snug on the back of the card itself, not sure if that's a problem. I'll doublecheck to make sure that fan header is all the way up to 100% but I'm pretty sure it is. I even took everything out and redid the thermal paste and reseated everything just to make sure so I'm kind of stumped as to why its so hot.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> Yeah I put thermal paste on both sides of the shim. The foam pad even after I shaved it down a bit is still pretty snug on the back of the card itself, not sure if that's a problem. I'll doublecheck to make sure that fan header is all the way up to 100% but I'm pretty sure it is. I even took everything out and redid the thermal paste and reseated everything just to make sure so I'm kind of stumped as to why its so hot.


This can also happen when the block isn't tightened down enough. You don't want it to bow the card, but make sure you have it tight.


----------



## Vagrancy

switched to a 1mm shim to see if it made any difference..and no nothing. Still running hot when running valley benchmarks. I don't get it.


----------



## Sorphius

It has to be something with your AIO... are you sure the pump's running? (can you feel the water moving through the tubes?)


----------



## Sorphius

@Vagrancy

FWIW, here's a close-up of where my AIO plate contacts the shim. Note that you can see (blue) the contact point, and (green) the tiny gap between the heat plate and the midplate:


Also, here's a view of the entire system. I saw that your AIO tubes were pretty curled up... see if you can straighten them out any -- you want as little resistance as possible.


----------



## Vagrancy

Yup. You can even hear the air bubbles getting worked out after I've moved it so its definitely pumping. I'm just totally at a loss for what's the issue.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to share something with you guys that you might find of interest...
> 
> Recently just picked up two Deepcool GF120 PWM fans to replace the two Fractal R series 140mm fans I was using prior. You might wonder, why would I switch from 140 to 120mm fans? Well I wasn't happy with the Fractal fans since they are only 3-pin and my motherboard can't control them properly (one just runs at 100% all the time) and even running at 100% they didn't feel like they were pushing as much air as I'd like. The H55 on my G10 needs lots of fresh air fed to it and judging by the dust accumulation on the side panel window after some time, it looked as though the Fractal fans were more "spraying" the air out at a wider angle rather than a more focused/directional flow.
> 
> Well let me tell you, these GF120's not only push more air but they're also very quiet. Just in placing my hand further back in the case I can already tell they have a much more focused and stronger airflow. With just one of these in the lower front intake slot in the S340 (H60 for the CPU is mounted above it) I can feel a stead flow of cold air being blown straight at the intake for the H55 at the back. With the Fractal R fans, I could not feel this strong of air flow that far back in the case, even at 100%. I'm also using one of these GF120's at the top as an exhaust, and with PWM I can now control it to run half the speed of the intake fan to maintain positive pressure inside (to reduce dust build-up). They're $20 each, though I've seen them for $17 a few places, but worth every penny, IMO.
> 
> Looking at the flow and pressure specs (this is where it becomes relevant for us G10 users), not only do these have a higher CFM than almost any other 120mm fan I've seen (~80CFM) but also a surprisingly high static pressure rating of 3.7mmH2O, which is higher than the Corsair's SP120 performance edition fans! (3.1mmH2O). Deepcool packages these fans (only with red blades) with their Maelstrom 120 AIO cooler. Reviews of that cooler show it to be a bit lacking in performance, but I believe the reason for that is the Maelstroms pump runs at a significantly slower rpm of 2800, compared to 4500+ like most other manufacturers.
> 
> This has me thinking now... If they perform that much better than the Fractal R series 140mm as air-flow case fans, then I wonder if they could also out-perform the Corsair SP120's as rad fans, given the higher SP rating? On paper, the numbers suggest that they can, but in practice we often find otherwise. So, I will be testing this extensively with the H55 on my overclocked R9 290 over the next few days and will share the results in a formal review layout.
> 
> In the mean time, if you're looking for a good, premium 120mm case fan, these are really excellent. Right up there with Noctua (yeah I said it) only these look much better, IMO.


I don't think any Canadian stores carry Deepcool fans though we get the Corsair SP ones.

For my wife's rig, I didn't bother changing out the 140mm fan that came with her Lian Li PC-7FN and just used an adapter with some washers and screws to mount the Corsair H55 in the front.




I think the 140mm fan is 1.16 mm-H2O and ~60CFM, pretty much what the Corsair SP140 is. I may replace the stock 120mm Corsair fan on the H55 by it works fine for now and keeps the R9 290 under 60°C under regular gaming load.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> Yup. You can even hear the air bubbles getting worked out after I've moved it so its definitely pumping. I'm just totally at a loss for what's the issue.


If bubbles are moving out of the tubes when you move them, then it sounds like the pump isn't running (or isn't running fast enough). I hear bubbles moving through mine when I power up the system, but if I touch them once it's running all I feel is a nice vibration caused by the pump turning.

I'd operate under the assumption that the pump isn't functioning properly. Do you have a MOLEX-Fan Header adapter that you can use to plug the fan into your power supply? Or do you have a splitter that you could use to connect both your GPU and your CPU radiator pumps to your CPU header?

Edit: You may also try completely removing the foam pad from the Kraken's backplate. It doesn't serve any real purpose as far as I can tell, and doing so will give you more headway to crank down your screws to make sure you're getting good contact. If you're using the little foam standoffs for the right side of the Kraken bracket, make sure you cut those down too. I ended up getting rid of them entirely, but with a midplate, if you don't at least trim them you end up with the bracket mounted at an angle, which will keep your AIO from getting clean contact.


----------



## Vagrancy

No not when I move them, when I've moved the entire AIO to reseat it the bubbles happen. They go away and I do feel the vibrations in the tubes themselves. After moving it and redoing everything again I've gotten it to drop about 10 degrees..goes up to 65-66 during heaven with no overclock..which is still stupidly high. This was with the 1MM shim, so I might go back to the 1.5mm shim next but this whole thing is just getting pretty frustrating.

I did trim down the foam pad a bit but I might just get rid of it completely to see if it does anything different.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrancy*
> 
> No not when I move them, when I've moved the entire AIO to reseat it the bubbles happen. They go away and I do feel the vibrations in the tubes themselves. After moving it and redoing everything again I've gotten it to drop about 10 degrees..goes up to 65-66 during heaven with no overclock..which is still stupidly high. This was with the 1MM shim, so I might go back to the 1.5mm shim next but this whole thing is just getting pretty frustrating.
> 
> I did trim down the foam pad a bit but I might just get rid of it completely to see if it does anything different.


Sounds like you're on the right track. I was getting ~60 in Heaven and spiking to 65 in Witcher 3 with a 1.2mm shim. When I re-seated everything with the 1.6mm (identical to what I sent you), my temps dropped to ~50 in Heaven and ~53 in Witcher.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FLaguy954*
> 
> I just purchased two of these to go on my Hyper Evo 212 and wow, they are the best fans I have ever had. These fans are literally built for radiators (and push enough air to be fantastic case fans) and can be seen on Deepcool-branded AIO coolers (but in red):
> 
> -snip-


Yep, those are the ones.







Quite impressive. They don't seem like anything special just to look at them, but man do they push air and do so extremely quietly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I don't think any Canadian stores carry Deepcool fans though we get the Corsair SP ones.
> 
> For my wife's rig, I didn't bother changing out the 140mm fan that came with her Lian Li PC-7FN and just used an adapter with some washers and screws to mount the Corsair H55 in the front.
> 
> -snip-
> 
> I think the 140mm fan is 1.16 mm-H2O and ~60CFM, pretty much what the Corsair SP140 is. I may replace the stock 120mm Corsair fan on the H55 by it works fine for now and keeps the R9 290 under 60°C under regular gaming load.


I bought the Deepcool GF120 fans from Canada Computers. http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_130&item_id=081352









Just looking at your setup... Is there anyway you can mount the rad as an exhaust? Only reason I suggest this is because the rad will kick out A LOT of heat, and with that setup, it'll be kicking the hot air right into the fan that's trying to cool the VRMs.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I bought the Deepcool GF120 fans from Canada Computers. http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_130&item_id=081352
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just looking at your setup... Is there anyway you can mount the rad as an exhaust? Only reason I suggest this is because the rad will kick out A LOT of heat, and with that setup, it'll be kicking the hot air right into the fan that's trying to cool the VRMs.


Ha! I'm in Vancouver so I don't usually shop at CC. Neither NCIX nor Memory Express carries them.

For work, I deal with distributors as well as computer retailers and haven't noticed Deepcool fans. I suppose CC brings them in from Deepcool directly as they are the only Canadian retailer listed on the Deepcool site.

While I know the AIO will kick out a fair amount of heat but Lian Li PC-7FN only has a front 140mm slot and a rear 120mm slot. Exhaust it not an option in my setup.



Because of positive pressure and having PCI slot covers with holes, the airflow is okay and the VRMs top off around 70°C and the GPU usually top off at 60°C playing Archeage, even lower with any other game.

In my GD09 case, I also had it as an intake (until I killed my R9 290 with Furmark...) because of how the case it designed, if I put it as exhaust, it disrupts the flow and increases temperatures all around.


----------



## Someone09

My copper shim got shipped yesterday. So, today I ordered everything else.








With a little luck everything will be here on the weekend (but I doubt it).

Decided to hook everything up to my motherboard at first before I decide whether I´ll connect the G10 fan to the GPU or if I am going to order an Aquaero.


----------



## loctran43

I bought G10 and H55 yesterday. I have MSI GTX 760. It already had the copper plate cover the VRMs and VRAMs. Should I remove it and replace with heatsinks? And where should I plug the fans and pump? For the G10's fan which pin should I connect mobo pin or video card pin? For the radiator fan and water pump of the H55, should I connect them straight to power supply or should I plug them into mobo pins? Someone help me please. Thanks.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loctran43*
> 
> I bought G10 and H55 yesterday. I have MSI GTX 760. It already had the copper plate cover the VRMs and VRAMs. Should I remove it and replace with heatsinks? And where should I plug the fans and pump? For the G10's fan which pin should I connect mobo pin or video card pin? For the radiator fan and water pump of the H55, should I connect them straight to power supply or should I plug them into mobo pins? Someone help me please. Thanks.


The mid plate is a heatsink, so you shouldn't need to replace anything. Ideally you'll want the pump plugged directly into the PSU. Ailing that, you'll need to plug it into a motherboard header and set it to 100% in the bios. The radiator fan can go into any fan header you like. Same with the 92mm g10 fan. Just make sure the g10 fan is running near-full, and tie the radiator fan to your gpu temp.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> Ha! I'm in Vancouver so I don't usually shop at CC. Neither NCIX nor Memory Express carries them.
> 
> For work, I deal with distributors as well as computer retailers and haven't noticed Deepcool fans. I suppose CC brings them in from Deepcool directly as they are the only Canadian retailer listed on the Deepcool site.
> 
> While I know the AIO will kick out a fair amount of heat but Lian Li PC-7FN only has a front 140mm slot and a rear 120mm slot. Exhaust it not an option in my setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of positive pressure and having PCI slot covers with holes, the airflow is okay and the VRMs top off around 70°C and the GPU usually top off at 60°C playing Archeage, even lower with any other game.
> 
> In my GD09 case, I also had it as an intake (until I killed my R9 290 with Furmark...) because of how the case it designed, if I put it as exhaust, it disrupts the flow and increases temperatures all around.


Newegg.ca has them.







(Note all 7 reviews are 5/5.







) http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835856024&cm_re=deepcool_gf_120-_-35-856-024-_-Product

Ah, I see your situation with that Lian Li case... Well, your temps are good anyways, so it must work well, regardless.







That is one tightly-packed chassis.

And yeah, I tell everyone who even mentions Furmark to stay very far away from it. It's a card killer.


----------



## devolved

Hey I posted my Krakens a while back, but I put some blue LEDs in there to contrast the red fans I got going.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loctran43*
> 
> Hi, I also have MSI card and I just bought the G10 and Corsair H55. I am having problem that I don't know where to plug those fans and water pump. Can you please tell me where you plug your G10's fan and where you plug the radiator's fan and water pump? Is it ok that I plug the H55 fan and water pump straight to power supply? Thanks


I answered your question above. Pump and g10 fan into the power supply if possible, since you want them BOTH running at 100% all the time. Then plug your radiator fan into a motherboard header or (if you have a VGA adapter) into the card itself. If you plug it into the motherboard, you'll want to either set it to a constant speed in the BIOS (probably around 60%), or use a program like Speedfan to set up a custom profile. If you have a VGA adapter and plug it into the actual card, you can control it in Afterburner.


----------



## crankyoldman

OK, I finally had time to take the cooler off my EVGA reference 980TI and here it is:


Just to make sure:
1) The VRMs are the 6 larger blocks in the red outline?
2) Should I heatsink the two smaller chips between the larger ones, too?
3) The chips under the thermal pads that stayed stuck to the PCB are the VRAM?
4) Should I remove those thermal pads and put them back on the shroud?

Thanks for indulging me.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crankyoldman*
> 
> OK, I finally had time to take the cooler off my EVGA reference 980TI and here it is:
> 
> 
> Just to make sure:
> 1) The VRMs are the 6 larger blocks in the red outline?
> 2) Should I heatsink the two smaller chips between the larger ones, too?
> 3) The chips under the thermal pads that stayed stuck to the PCB are the VRAM?
> 4) Should I remove those thermal pads and put them back on the shroud?
> 
> Thanks for indulging me.


1) Yes.
2) Sure, why not?
3) Yes.
4) Depends. Are you going to put The stock cooler back on? If so, you may as well since those pads allow for heat transfer between the VRAM and The mid plate. If you're installing something like a g10, the VRAM doesn't really need any supplemental cooling so you can just junk them.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crankyoldman*
> 
> OK, I finally had time to take the cooler off my EVGA reference 980TI and here it is:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to make sure:
> 1) The VRMs are the 6 larger blocks in the red outline?
> 2) Should I heatsink the two smaller chips between the larger ones, too?
> 3) The chips under the thermal pads that stayed stuck to the PCB are the VRAM?
> 4) Should I remove those thermal pads and put them back on the shroud?
> 
> Thanks for indulging me.


1) No. Those are the chokes. The VRMs are actually the line of smaller black squares just to the right of the chokes.
2) You should heatsink the whole line/array of VRMs (the smaller black squares, not the chokes).
3) Yes.
4) As Sorphius said. If you're putting the stock cooler right back on, then just leave the pads as-is. If you're planning to water cool with a kraken G10, then yes, pull the pads off and leave the modules bare. They don't really need heatsinks, but some people put some on anyways. It's up to you. With the G10, the Vram modules will get some cooling from the air flow from the 92mm fan on the G10 bracket.


----------



## MEC-777

Sorry, double post.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Newegg.ca has them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Note all 7 reviews are 5/5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835856024&cm_re=deepcool_gf_120-_-35-856-024-_-Product


Yeah, I saw that. $9 shipping! Boo...









Most of the time, I prefer to just pop into a store or distributor locally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Ah, I see your situation with that Lian Li case... Well, your temps are good anyways, so it must work well, regardless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is one tightly-packed chassis.


It was the case my wife wanted in 2009 for her build. We had a pair of XFX 5850 Black Editions in CrossfireX (packed tightly) for 4+ years and boy did it kick out a lot of heat! So much better now after being cleaned up, HDD cage removed and a front 120mm added to the 5.25" bay.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> And yeah, I tell everyone who even mentions Furmark to stay very far away from it. It's a card killer.


I thought, "well, I've never killed a card with Furmark before. What can possibly go wrong with I have this shiny new H55 attached to it? Heck, I ran Furmark for 30 minutes on the stock cooler!" It lasted all of 30 seconds. lol


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> Yeah, I saw that. $9 shipping! Boo...


I know, shipping in Canada is just stupid. I too prefer to just stop in at the local Canada Computers or NCIX, which usually has prices competitive with online prices anyways.









I have to say though, these GF120 fans are actually something I would pay shipping for if I couldn't get them locally - now that I know how well they perform.









They make a 140mm version as well, but I haven't seen the black ones in any stores yet and they use 120mm fan mounts which could be an issue for some situations.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I thought, "well, I've never killed a card with Furmark before. What can possibly go wrong with I have this shiny new H55 attached to it? Heck, I ran Furmark for 30 minutes on the stock cooler!" It lasted all of 30 seconds. lol


Oh no, that's not good at all, lol.







Well, you live, you learn right?







I still see some reviewers using it and I just cringe. Why, WHY?


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> They make a 140mm version as well, but I haven't seen the black ones in any stores yet and they use 120mm fan mounts which could be an issue for some situations.


They don't list the air pressure for the 140mm versions, at least none that I can find. I would assume that like other 140mm fans, it's not nearly as substantial as the 120mm ones.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Oh no, that's not good at all, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, you live, you learn right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still see some reviewers using it and I just cringe. Why, WHY?


Ah well, it happens. I popped the replacement into my HTPC stock for now since I haven't had the time to mount H55 back onto it yet. Not terrible without the H55 maxing out at 80°C.


----------



## crankyoldman

Thanks for the quick, helpful answers. I put a G10/H55 combo on today and the temps were a little higher than expected; I suspect a combination of needing to tighten more and the way I had the radiator set up inside the case to test before I move the CPU cooler to the top of the case (seems fortuitous now).

The real problem I'm having though, is the VRM heatsinks - specifically keeping them attached. I purchased these: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O I cleaned off the adhesive with alcohol, then gave them a fine sanding for good measure, then cleaned them again today before attaching them with smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQ23OQA I also cleaned the top of the chips before applying the pads.

I was wondering if anyone else had problems with these pads? Maybe I'm just not pushing hard enough? I, of course, don't want to break anything and I'm not a small guy.

Fortunately, none of the falling heatsinks damaged anything else. But I can verify they are very hot!


----------



## DR4G00N

That won't work, what your looking for is thermal tape/adhesive. Which was on the heatsink... before you removed it.








Thermal pads are designed to be used with heatsinks that are held down with screws, pushpins, ect.


----------



## crankyoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> That won't work, what your looking for is thermal tape/adhesive. Which was on the heatsink... before you removed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thermal pads are designed to be used with heatsinks that are held down with screws, pushpins, ect.


I appreciate all the input I can get, but replacing the pre-applied tape with the pads was exactly what I read here and in the LTT thread (those are even the recommended items).


----------



## masteratarms

@CrankyOldMan

I've used 3 methods to attack heatsinks to my card. If there are push pin holes then you can use thermal paste + a cable tie or 2. Then I put RAMsinks on with thermal paste + a dab of superglue in the corner. If the surface of the chip is small I use thermal tape.

Using these RAMsinks which have been reused several times:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=178124&Sku=T925-1022&csid=ITD&recordsPerPage=10&body=REVIEWS#CustomerReviewsBlock

As posted above, thermal pads are used for places where you have a pushpin (but thermal paste works here too, better IMO), and on midplates which is probably the prefered method since its unlikely the midplate would be flush with everything its covering.


----------



## loctran43

Does anyone know if the G10 will fit with PNY GTX 970 reference design? if yes, do I need to get a copper shim for it?
And can someone suggest me some good aluminum heat sink for VRMs and good thermal pad? (I live in US)
Thanks


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loctran43*
> 
> Does anyone know if the G10 will fit with PNY GTX 970 reference design? if yes, do I need to get a copper shim for it?
> And can someone suggest me some good aluminum heat sink for VRMs and good thermal pad? (I live in US)
> Thanks




There is no midplate so you won't need a shim. The vrm have an included heatsink, but on the other side of the gpu from the fan. So you will need to find a way to get a fan directed on it.

You might actually want to look at the HG10 N970 from Corsair. it is compatible with 2 PNY reference style 970's and provides cooling for the vrm.


----------



## penguinzrock

Getting the upgrade itch, and trying to decide between using my current G10+x41 on a 980Ti nonreference, or buy the EVGA Hybrid kit and use it on a reference.

Is VRAM cooling really an issue? My biggest issue with my current set-up is I have no idea how to cool my current Gigabyte G1 980 VRAM. Do I use thermal tape, or pads? Do I need a sink for every little chip? Which VRAM heatsinks are better than others? Aluminum or copper? There are 24 of the little chips, are ALL of them VRAM?

If I were to get the 980Ti G1, would I only need 8 heatsinks?
Gigabyte 980Ti G1:









Is the G10 even compatible with the MSi 980Ti Gaming?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *penguinzrock*
> 
> Getting the upgrade itch, and trying to decide between using my current G10+x41 on a 980Ti nonreference, or buy the EVGA Hybrid kit and use it on a reference.
> 
> Is VRAM cooling really an issue? My biggest issue with my current set-up is I have no idea how to cool my current Gigabyte G1 980 VRAM. Do I use thermal tape, or pads? Do I need a sink for every little chip? Which VRAM heatsinks are better than others? Aluminum or copper? There are 24 of the little chips, are ALL of them VRAM?
> 
> If I were to get the 980Ti G1, would I only need 8 heatsinks?
> Gigabyte 980Ti G1:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the G10 even compatible with the MSi 980Ti Gaming?


VRAM cooling isn't the issue. Its cooling the VRMs. You,can either get thermal pads/tape/heatsinks for them, or get a card like the MSI Gaming that has a cooling mid plate for them.


----------



## penguinzrock

Sorry, meant VRM and not VRAM. I know the VRAM are the larger chips around the GPU, and the VRMs are the smaller black chips off to the right. I completely forgot about midplates, so I guess the MSi 980Ti is my best bet. Thanks!


----------



## slickric21

Can anyone advise how id go about mounting one of these to an eVGA 980ti SC ACX 2.0
The card has a midplate as seen here http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/3540#post_24031284
So i have ordered a 25x25x1.6mm shim (because of those tabs on the midplate around the gpu die area)

My card also has the eVGA 980ti backplate on it, which im worrying will prevent me from using the mounting backplate of this kit (the bit which fits onto the back/reverse of the card)

Any ideas of experiences with this ?

I have seen this video which I guess I could try https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo


----------



## Hazardz

Either remove the foam on that mounting plate or flip it around. If the screws are still not long enough, I think NZXT can get you longer ones.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *penguinzrock*
> 
> Sorry, meant VRM and not VRAM. I know the VRAM are the larger chips around the GPU, and the VRMs are the smaller black chips off to the right. I completely forgot about midplates, so I guess the MSi 980Ti is my best bet. Thanks!


Yep, the MsibGaming is a good choice, as are the EVGA ACX cards... Although the EVGA requires a shim.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> Can anyone advise how id go about mounting one of these to an eVGA 980ti SC ACX 2.0
> The card has a midplate as seen here http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/3540#post_24031284
> So i have ordered a 25x25x1.6mm shim (because of those tabs on the midplate around the gpu die area)
> 
> My card also has the eVGA 980ti backplate on it, which im worrying will prevent me from using the mounting backplate of this kit (the bit which fits onto the back/reverse of the card)
> 
> Any ideas of experiences with this ?
> 
> I have seen this video which I guess I could try https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo


I have that exact card and use a G10 without issue. Remove the foam from the G10's backplate and you're golden.


----------



## slickric21

Oh ok thats good to know.

Guess my only issue now could be wether the screws are long enough as Hazardz mentioned.
If i have the Backplate on the card and then a shim, its going to add on a few extra mm's for sure.

As I live in the UK contacting NZXT for some longer screws wouldnt be quick i imagine.
Ive got some Nylon M2 25mm screws at home so hopefully they will work if needed.

Ahh roll on delivery on Monday


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> Oh ok thats good to know.
> 
> Guess my only issue now could be wether the screws are long enough as Hazardz mentioned.
> If i have the Backplate on the card and then a shim, its going to add on a few extra mm's for sure.
> 
> As I live in the UK contacting NZXT for some longer screws wouldnt be quick i imagine.
> Ive got some Nylon M2 25mm screws at home so hopefully they will work if needed.
> 
> Ahh roll on delivery on Monday


You should be fine if You remove the foambpadbon the backplate and the rubber washers on the thumbscrews. That's what I did and the bracket works perfectly, even with the EVGA backplate and a 1.6mm shim.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Holy crap! I'm gone for two days and 63 new posts!! Thank you everyone who has been helping others out with the G10, really appreciate it!


----------



## loctran43

What gpu temp do you guys have after install the liquid cooler?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loctran43*
> 
> What gpu temp do you guys have after install the liquid cooler?


I ran a 4-hour Heaven loop this afternoon on ultra at 1440p, and my 980ti never got over 53C at 1508mhz.

*Edit: For acoustical reasons, I should note that I have the fan on my H90 (the AIO) set to never go above 60%. If I didn't mind the noise, I could crank it up to its full 2000 RPM and the temps would be significantly (~4-5C) lower.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loctran43*
> 
> What gpu temp do you guys have after install the liquid cooler?


Depending on ambient I get 28 - 30C idle and about 45C while gaming with a GTX 970.


----------



## Someone09

Well, crap. The copper shim arrived today and I just realized I ordered an 15x15x1.5mm one instead of an 20x20x1.5mm one.









EDIT: Since I indeed can´t find a 20x20x1.5 anywhere, did anyone try a 20x20x1.2mm shim with an EVGA ACX midplate?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Well, crap. The copper shim arrived today and I just realized I ordered an 15x15x1.5mm one instead of an 20x20x1.5mm one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Since I indeed can´t find a 20x20x1.5 anywhere, did anyone try a 20x20x1.2mm shim with an EVGA ACX midplate?


1.2mm is too thin. It basically ends up being flush with the mid plate, which leads to inefficient heat transfer. It lowers the temps, but you end up around 60C instead of 50C.


----------



## Someone09

But it should work, right?

So, my best way of action would be to order an 1.2mm shim which should be here mid next week. Then I can test everything.
In the meantime I order another 1.5mm (from China) which will be here...well...hopefully before the sun goes super nova.

On a related note: Did anybody ever tried using one of those thermal pads like this:
http://www.akasa.com.tw/search.php?seed=AK-TT300-01

Personally I never used pads but my understanding is that they don´t transfer heat as good as thermal paste and therefore not as good as a copper shim.
But still it got me curious.


----------



## Sorphius

Sure it'll work, but the performance you get from it won't be that different from just using the air cooler..

are: the new shim, yeah you can wait for the sun to go supernova, or there's also this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25x25x1-6mm-Copper-Shim-for-Mounting-AIO-Cooler-on-a-GPU-with-NZXT-G10-Kraken-/301688890982?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item463e0f2666

Should get there sooner and it's exactly the dimensions you need to totally cover the gpu chip.


----------



## Someone09

Yeah, that one should be here around 2 weeks earlier.
But I am not paying 40 bucks for shipping costs.









But thanks for the link.


----------



## Sorphius

Ah, yeah... if you're outside the US that would probably be a *****...


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Sure it'll work, but the performance you get from it won't be that different from just using the air cooler..
> 
> are: the new shim, yeah you can wait for the sun to go supernova, or there's also this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/25x25x1-6mm-Copper-Shim-for-Mounting-AIO-Cooler-on-a-GPU-with-NZXT-G10-Kraken-/301688890982?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item463e0f2666
> 
> Should get there sooner and it's exactly the dimensions you need to totally cover the gpu chip.


That is cool that they have shims just for the G10.


----------



## loctran43

I'm using Gtx 760 + G10 + H55. I'm getting 35 idle. is that normal?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loctran43*
> 
> I'm using Gtx 760 + G10 + H55. I'm getting 35 idle. is that normal?


35 idle is what you'll get regardless of cooling. The bigger question is what's your load temp?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loctran43*
> 
> I'm using Gtx 760 + G10 + H55. I'm getting 35 idle. is that normal?


I get 28-30C, a lot of that depends on ambient temps. Just playing The Witcher 3 and temps were 47C, not too bad.


----------



## MEC-777

Idle temps can depend greatly on your rad fan speed. At about 700rpm, my idle temp is about 37-39C. At 1600rpm, idle temps are around 32C.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loctran43*
> 
> I'm using Gtx 760 + G10 + H55. I'm getting 35 idle. is that normal?


those temps are too damn high! depends on your ambient temp significantly - i live in a cool part of australia and my idle temps are 22C because my ambient is low.

i suggest tightening your screws up some.

edit - on a gtx 970 DC Mini


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I had to wait for more than a week for a stripped screw remover.


I know this is an old post, but I was going though this thread because I'm not sure what I will end up doing for The Mod with my next card.

What I was going to say was, did you try a rubber band? I typically put a rubber band between screwdriver and stripped screw to remove them. It's only ever failed me on watch screws so far.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> I know this is an old post, but I was going though this thread because I'm not sure what I will end up doing for The Mod with my next card.
> 
> What I was going to say was, did you try a rubber band? I typically put a rubber band between screwdriver and stripped screw to remove them. It's only ever failed me on watch screws so far.


Yes, I think I used a rubber band. I Also tried the super glue method; I got some on my finger and had a mini panic attack lol. I tried other things also.
All of them didn't work.

I even decided to drill through the screw to the other side to annihilate it, but i didnt go through with the idea because i was afraid ill damage the PCB.

Honestly the stripped screw remover tool is so worth it and very easy to work with. It only took me a few moments and it was done. I'm sure it'll be of good use whenever I need it again.


----------



## majnu

Hi

I have a MSI 980ti Gaming on order and it should be with me next week. Can I ask those who have installed a NZXT G10 do I need additional bits as described in this video if I wish to use the backplate?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlGMhASE22w&index=1&list=FL-GpgmKV17bGBGWsdII1dEA
Quote:


> Nylon Washer http://amzn.to/1wAPbnz
> Nylon Finishing Washer http://amzn.to/1wAPwH4
> 25mm Mounting Screw http://amzn.to/1tCi7M7
> Gelid VGA Fan Adapter http://amzn.to/VgmaQm
> PWM Fan Splitter Power Connector http://amzn.to/1ppv0XW


I have these spare components:
Corsair H100i (unopened, it was a RMA replacement)
120mm Scythe AP15 (3 pin) fans

Will the H100i work with that bracket as from the videos I have seen people have opted for H55, maybe because it has a different shape for mouting.

Additionally do you recommend I go for a better 92mm/120mm fan like the Noctuas or Noise Blocker? I did read somewhere that the Deepcool-Gamer-Storm-GF120 was a good fan but unfortunately I cannot find that in the UK.

Do I need thermal tape to cover VRM's as I assumed the MSI had a heatsink installed specifically to cool VRM's

Thanks


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I have a MSI 980ti Gaming on order and it should be with me next week. Can I ask those who have installed a NZXT G10 do I need additional bits as described in this video if I wish to use the backplate?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlGMhASE22w&index=1&list=FL-GpgmKV17bGBGWsdII1dEA
> I have these spare components:
> Corsair H100i (unopened, it was a RMA replacement)
> 120mm Scythe AP15 (3 pin) fans
> 
> Will the H100i work with that bracket as from the videos I have seen people have opted for H55, maybe because it has a different shape for mouting.
> 
> Additionally do you recommend I go for a better 92mm/120mm fan like the Noctuas or Noise Blocker? I did read somewhere that the Deepcool-Gamer-Storm-GF120 was a good fan but unfortunately I cannot find that in the UK.
> 
> Do I need thermal tape to cover VRM's as I assumed the MSI had a heatsink installed specifically to cool VRM's
> 
> Thanks


You don't need the screws, washers, etc. that the video mentions. If you just remove (or trim down) the included pad on the G10's backplate and remove the rubber washers from the thumbscrews, you'll have ample clearance.

You'll want the VGA fan adapter if you intend to control either the G10 fan or your radiator fan with Afterburner or you card's bios, but it isn't required.

The only reason you would need a splitter is if you use a radiator with multiple fans that you want to control off a single header.

The H100i will *NOT* work with the G10 due to its square mounting plate. The G10 requires a rounded plate like the H55, H75, H90, H105, etc (picture for reference).

You can replace the G10's stock fan if you like (I used a NF-A9), but to be completely honest it isn't really necessary since even at 100% the stock fan is nearly silent -- especially once you close up your case.

You won't need a shim, thermal pads, or heatsinks for the MSI Gaming, since it has cooling midplates already installed and doesn't have the "arms" coming off the midplates like EVGA does that interfere with mounting the AIO.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> You don't need the screws, washers, etc. that the video mentions. If you just remove (or trim down) the included pad on the G10's backplate and remove the rubber washers from the thumbscrews, you'll have ample clearance.
> 
> You'll want the VGA fan adapter if you intend to control either the G10 fan or your radiator fan with Afterburner or you card's bios, but it isn't required.
> 
> The only reason you would need a splitter is if you use a radiator with multiple fans that you want to control off a single header.
> 
> The H100i will *NOT* work with the G10 due to its square mounting plate. The G10 requires a rounded plate like the H55, H75, H90, H105, etc (picture for reference).
> 
> You can replace the G10's stock fan if you like (I used a NF-A9), but to be completely honest it isn't really necessary since even at 100% the stock fan is nearly silent -- especially once you close up your case.
> 
> You won't need a shim, thermal pads, or heatsinks for the MSI Gaming, since it has cooling midplates already installed and doesn't have the "arms" coming off the midplates like EVGA does that interfere with mounting the AIO.


Thankyou


----------



## zorvalth

Not really the proper thread but this solution looks cool too and the people which are interested in kraken will be in this too:

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/id-cooling-hunter-duet-all-in-one-water,29626.html#xtor=RSS-181


----------



## Sorphius

That looks pretty neat -- I'm curious to see how effective it is.


----------



## aaronlaplante

have a msi 7970 boost (refrence) cards. anyone know of the measurments of ram (width) and total clearance in height that can fit safely under the G10? Looking for ramsinks and possibly a vrm heatsink. I measured 3.5" from one center hole near the vrm to another (i belive its the right holes), do you guys know the acutal distance? was hoping i could buy a vrm heatsink and just bolt it on. THANK YOU THANK YOU in advance!


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronlaplante*
> 
> have a msi 7970 boost (refrence) cards. anyone know of the measurments of ram (width) and total clearance in height that can fit safely under the G10? Looking for ramsinks and possibly a vrm heatsink. I measured 3.5" from one center hole near the vrm to another (i belive its the right holes), do you guys know the acutal distance? was hoping i could buy a vrm heatsink and just bolt it on. THANK YOU THANK YOU in advance!


Is it a twin frozer III? If it is you should be able to just use the midplate that comes on it for cooling the ram and vrm's.

And just give me a minute, I have an old msi 7950 with a 7970 pcb lying around so I'll measure it.

Vram chips are 13mm x 16mm and the vrm's are 10mm x 85mm, the screws are 3.5" measured diagonally. There's about 9mm's of clearance so I'd get 8mm or shorter just to be safe.


----------



## DaHansman

I did a lot of reading an saw a lot of picture and I have a question:

If i cut off the "NZXT" - named side panel and take a Noctua NF-A9x14, do I get back to a dual slot height?

I dont have the room for the Triple slot design. I just need something to mount the Radiator on the GTX 980.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaHansman*
> 
> I did a lot of reading an saw a lot of picture and I have a question:
> 
> If i cut off the "NZXT" - named side panel and take a Noctua NF-A9x14, do I get back to a dual slot height?
> 
> I dont have the room for the Triple slot design. I just need something to mount the Radiator on the GTX 980.


You could, you don't actually need the bottom of the bracket. What I did was bend if forward from the bottom edge and that allowed me to reduce it to dual slot thickness.


----------



## DaHansman

Thanks for the quick reply.

The Card will be a EVGA GTX 980 SC Acx2.0. In a small case it gets in the mid. 80s°C. And the fans are blowing real loud.

What I need is: (to keep the backplate)

- 25 mm M2.5 screws
- finishing washers
- nuts
- 1 20 x 20 x 1 mm copper shim

I will take a H75 due to the slim radiator.

I have some heatsinks left from a old cooler. I will glue that on the VRM.

Do I need anything else?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaHansman*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply.
> 
> The Card will be a EVGA GTX 980 SC Acx2.0. In a small case it gets in the mid. 80s°C. And the fans are blowing real loud.
> 
> What I need is: (to keep the backplate)
> 
> - 25 mm M2.5 screws
> - finishing washers
> - nuts
> - 1 20 x 20 x 1 mm copper shim
> 
> I will take a H75 due to the slim radiator.
> 
> I have some heatsinks left from a old cooler. I will glue that on the VRM.
> 
> Do I need anything else?


Actually the only thing you'll need is a shim. I have the exact same card and can confirm from experience that the stock screws are long enough to mount the G10. You'll just want to remove (or trim down) the foam pad on the NZXT mounting bracket and remove the rubber washers from the thumb screws.

Note, however, that a 20x20x1mm shim is too small. The chip itself is 25x25mm, and the midplate on your EVGA card is ~1.3mm thick, which means that a 20x20x1mm shim won't give you efficient heat transfer. I know this from experience. I ordered a 1.2mm shim and my AIO's heat plate basically rested flush against both the shim AND the midplate, which ended up giving me temps between 60-65c under load. I made my own 1.6mm shim and my temps dropped around 10-15c, to where I can now play Witcher 3 without my 980ti ever getting hotter than 55C even when clocked to 1508mhz.

If you look on ebay, you should be able to get a shim specifically advertised for the G10 that is cut to those exact specifications.


----------



## DaHansman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Actually the only thing you'll need is a shim. I have the exact same card and can confirm from experience that the stock screws are long enough to mount the G10. You'll just want to remove (or trim down) the foam pad on the NZXT mounting bracket and remove the rubber washers from the thumb screws.
> 
> Note, however, that a 20x20x1mm shim is too small. The chip itself is 25x25mm, and the midplate on your EVGA card is ~1.3mm thick, which means that a 20x20x1mm shim won't give you efficient heat transfer. I know this from experience. I ordered a 1.2mm shim and my AIO's heat plate basically rested flush against both the shim AND the midplate, which ended up giving me temps between 60-65c under load. I made my own 1.6mm shim and my temps dropped around 10-15c, to where I can now play Witcher 3 without my 980ti ever getting hotter than 55C even when clocked to 1508mhz.
> 
> If you look on ebay, you should be able to get a shim specifically advertised for the G10 that is cut to those exact specifications.


Wow! That sounds great.

You made your own with 25x25x1.6mm or 20x20x1,6mm?

I found that on ebay, but I'm not living in the US so maybe shipping won't 2,98 $









Otherwise if i wont find one, I'm going to make it on my own too.


----------



## CoachMcGuirk

Hi All,

The G10 + H50 has been working great. My system is quieter/cooler than I've ever had a gaming rig before, but I'm having a problem with the small copper heatsinks falling off the VRMs on my GTX 780 (EVGA 03G-P4-2781-KR). Could you knowledgeable ones guide me to purchasing a good solution? Are there any available full-length heatsinks compatible with my pcb that would cover the VRMs using pushpins and thermal pads? I'd rather not have to worry about them falling off like this. Thanks for your help!


----------



## Crazy G

I´m using 1,5mm thermal pads, tiny aluminum heatsinks all hold in place with a steel clip from an old CPU air cooler heatsink, those to hold fan in place. I bent the central area of the clip to have same pressure all over. Installed the rod in the center of the heatsinks gaps. Just take care for the ends doesn´t touch any circuit of your PCB.


----------



## Fearbleeds

Hello guys, this is my first post to this website! Anyways I just ordered a G10 for my MSI 980 ti like the other users.i couldn't find any pictures of anyone doing this before so I thought I'll post some. The MSI 980ti is perfect for the g10, since it has that beautiful back plate and mid plate with heat sinks to most of the components. However I noticed that there are some large square parts ( I don't know what they are) that were thermally cooled by the main heat sink via a thermal pad. So I ordered some heat sinks to take care of them. Here are some pics


----------



## Hazardz

I believe those are inductors.


----------



## Fearbleeds

Oh ok! well I'm guessing they get hot if MSI felt the need to use a thermal pad there and not on the capacitors.


----------



## DaHansman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Actually the only thing you'll need is a shim. I have the exact same card and can confirm from experience that the stock screws are long enough to mount the G10. You'll just want to remove (or trim down) the foam pad on the NZXT mounting bracket and remove the rubber washers from the thumb screws.
> 
> Note, however, that a 20x20x1mm shim is too small. The chip itself is 25x25mm, and the midplate on your EVGA card is ~1.3mm thick, which means that a 20x20x1mm shim won't give you efficient heat transfer. I know this from experience. I ordered a 1.2mm shim and my AIO's heat plate basically rested flush against both the shim AND the midplate, which ended up giving me temps between 60-65c under load. I made my own 1.6mm shim and my temps dropped around 10-15c, to where I can now play Witcher 3 without my 980ti ever getting hotter than 55C even when clocked to 1508mhz.
> 
> If you look on ebay, you should be able to get a shim specifically advertised for the G10 that is cut to those exact specifications.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_900_series says the die size is 398mm².
I think the die has a square size. That means √398 = 19,95. That means that a 20x20x1.6mm copper shim would be better than a 25x25x1.6 right?


----------



## beasty54

I've read through a few pages and seen that the G10 is compatible with the zotac 980ti amp but I can't find if it's compatible with the amp extreme as I'm unsure if the PCBs are the same. Has anyone here installed one on the amp extreme?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaHansman*
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_900_series says the die size is 398mm².
> I think the die has a square size. That means √398 = 19,95. That means that a 20x20x1.6mm copper shim would be better than a 25x25x1.6 right?


*shrug* IDK what to tell you. I'm using a 25x25mm shim that I cut myself, and it covers the GPU chip perfectly. a 20x20mm would only cover the middle. It may not make a difference for heat transfer, or it may. But I prefer to cover it entirely.

*Edit -- I just saw that you have the 980 and not the 980ti. Could it be that they have different chip sizes?


----------



## DaHansman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> *shrug* IDK what to tell you. I'm using a 25x25mm shim that I cut myself, and it covers the GPU chip perfectly. a 20x20mm would only cover the middle. It may not make a difference for heat transfer, or it may. But I prefer to cover it entirely.
> 
> *Edit -- I just saw that you have the 980 and not the 980ti. Could it be that they have different chip sizes?


Now it makes sense.
The GTX 980 TI (GM200) has a 601 mm² die size which is 24,5mm each side. Thats why your shim covers perfectly.

Then I will need a 20x20x? sized shim. Maybe the midplate height is different too. So I'll measure that one and then geht the height for the shim.

But thanks for helping me!


----------



## Sorphius

Yep, check on the midplate height to be sure. I don't think a 25x25 shim would do any harm (hell, it may actually help improve transfer by providing a larger area of transfer to your AIO), but 20x20 would definitely work for you.

As for the thickness, I'd imagine that it would be the same -- but then again, I'd have assumed the GPU dies themselves would have been the same as well.


----------



## shaggy13101991

Hello everyone, I'm new here








sorry for my bad English but im Italian xD
I wanted to know if I can mount the NZXT G10 + Corsair Hydro H55 on a Asus R9 290 DirectCu2 OC ...
thank you all


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaggy13101991*
> 
> Hello everyone, I'm new here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for my bad English but im Italian xD
> I wanted to know if I can mount the NZXT G10 + Corsair Hydro H55 on a Asus R9 290 DirectCu2 OC ...
> thank you all


Based on the pictures in this review, it should work perfectly. The best part is that the VRMs already have a heatsink installed over them, which means you won't need to add any additional ones. So it's a win-win!


----------



## shaggy13101991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Based on the pictures in this review, it should work perfectly. The best part is that the VRMs already have a heatsink installed over them, which means you won't need to add any additional ones. So it's a win-win!


as well for the screws there are no problems?
another thing: I'm going to increase even by mounting the watts consumed compared to the stock cooler?
thanks a lot anyway, you've been very helpful


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaggy13101991*
> 
> as well for the screws there are no problems?
> another thing: I'm going to increase even by mounting the watts consumed compared to the stock cooler?
> thanks a lot anyway, you've been very helpful


There shouldn't be any problems with the screws. It has a backplate, but there's no midplate which means you should be okay. Worse case, you can remove the foam pad that's on the Kraken's back plate and it will definitely fit.

I'm not sure how many watts the stock cooler on that card uses, but you may use a little bit more with the Kraken. It won't be huge though.


----------



## beefstew4u

Hi everyone! First time poster here.

I just wanted to share my experience with installing the Kraken G10 with the Kraken X61 on my EVGA GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0+.

The first mistake I made was buying a backplate for the card. It turns out the backplate blocks the orange coloured mounting holes necessary for using a cooler of this size. Because of this, I had to take off my backplate and use the little one included with the G10. My friend with the exact same card will be happily taking the backplate off my hands, at least







.

For now, I've left the midplate on the card, as I assume it will provide better cooling to the VRMs than just having them open to the fan. My card doesn't seem to have any way to monitor the VRM temps though. Anybody have any input on whether I should leave it as is, or if I should take it off and stick some copper heatsinks on?

Now for the G10 itself. As suggested by many people here, I had to cut down the foam pads on the G10 to fit it properly on the card. I tried to do a test fit and found one of the screw holes on the G10 too small, so I had to widen it. My X61 seemed to be getting perfect contact on the GPU during my test fit, so no need for a copper shim with this card. I have to say though, it is incredibly awkward keeping the block in the notches while trying to line up the screw holes on the bracket. The G10 also seems to hang a bit more off the top of this card than it does on some others.

With everything attached to the card, I just needed to mount my rad. I already had an X61 in the top of my case for the CPU, so I had to mount this one in the front. When I bought my case (NZXT H440 Razer edition), I thought it would have enough room for me to eventually put in a 280mm rad and keep one of the stock fans in place. Guess I didn't do enough research though, as I had to take out all 3 stock fans to fit it in. Due to an unfortunate set of events, I've got a cheap Gigabyte mobo in my system, so I had to use the front panel USB connector for my second X61.

So, overall the setup wasn't terrible. It sucks that the backplate covered the mounting holes, but the Kraken was fairly straightforward to install on this card. No need for a shim.

I have my card at a modest OC of 1450MHz, and did some light benchmarking with it:

ACX 2.0+ Cooler
Idle (fans off): 45 C
Witcher 3: 84 C
Afterburner: 90 C

Kraken G10 + X61 (Silent profile)
Idle: 30C
Wicher 3: 62C
Afterburner: 65C

So quite a decent improvement! My CPU (3570k 4.2GHz) was also not going over 50 C while playing Witcher 3. The only downside with this setup is it's louder when idle, but definitely much quieter when under load. Time to see how far I can push this card!

I would post pics, but I'm ashamed of my system with this ugly as hell cheap, blue Gigabyte mobo in my black/green themed system.


----------



## shaggy13101991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> There shouldn't be any problems with the screws. It has a backplate, but there's no midplate which means you should be okay. Worse case, you can remove the foam pad that's on the Kraken's back plate and it will definitely fit.
> 
> I'm not sure how many watts the stock cooler on that card uses, but you may use a little bit more with the Kraken. It won't be huge though.


I wondering why my power supply is a 550W Enermax NAXN 80+ Bronze and I hope it is suitable to support the G10 + corsair H55


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaggy13101991*
> 
> I wondering why my power supply is a 550W Enermax NAXN 80+ Bronze and I hope it is suitable to support the G10 + corsair H55


Oy! Hrm, I really don't know how much that gpu draws. You *should* still be okay as long as your PSU is actually giving you the 550W that it advertises (how old is it???), but you probably won't have a ton of headroom in terms of adding other components down the line.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beefstew4u*
> 
> For now, I've left the midplate on the card, as I assume it will provide better cooling to the VRMs than just having them open to the fan. My card doesn't seem to have any way to monitor the VRM temps though. Anybody have any input on whether I should leave it as is, or if I should take it off and stick some copper heatsinks on?


It's really your call. There's no need to take the midplate off (it's actually specifically there to serve as a heatsink), but you can stick some small aftermarket heatsinks to it as well if you want piece of mind.


----------



## shaggy13101991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Oy! Hrm, I really don't know how much that gpu draws. You *should* still be okay as long as your PSU is actually giving you the 550W that it advertises (how old is it???), but you probably won't have a ton of headroom in terms of adding other components down the line.


I took in August last year when I made the new PC ... it says on the box ''Peak power 605W''
go on specification, is ETL550AWT http://www.enermax.it/power-supplies/naxn-adv/
my actual vga its fully supported at full load (on spec is reported: ''power consumption: Up to 300W additional 6 + 8-pin PCIe power required'')


----------



## cypiate

Can u show where on this card is vrm 1 and vrm 2? Its gtx 980 ti


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cypiate*
> 
> 
> 
> Can u show where on this card is vrm 1 and vrm 2? Its gtx 980 ti


----------



## Someone09

So, today was finally the day and I installed the G10 on my 980 Ti.
Thought I´d take a few pictures while doing so.

Before:


Even prettier without the cooler I think:


The bracket with Silent Wings 2:


Copper shim 20x20x1,2mm:


Bracket and Corsair H75 installed:


"Installed" in my rig:

No cable management yet because I am waiting for a Aquaero to arrive.

IMO the installation process was pretty easy and yet something quite new. Not really comparable to a normal AiO installation nor to a normal waterblock installation.

Although I am "only" using a 1,2mm shim, the highest temps I have seen so far were at 59°C while running 3D Mark. While gaming or under Valley/Haven it never reached 56°C so far.
So, I am not sure if I am going to even bother putting a 1,5mm shim under there when it arrives.

Also, almost gotten a heart attack when I powered everything up because the H75´s LED didn´t light up. Only did I found out then that it does not have one!
Well, thanks for that, Corsair!


----------



## jrajav

Hey there!

I just got a Galax 980 Ti HoF and I have several questions:


Will the G10 bracket work on the HoF? The GPU is in the right place and the VRM would be under the fan?
Will the HoF's beefier VRMs run warmer or cooler than other cards' VRMs?
What is the best solution for VRM heatsinks? Individual copper ones applied with tape? One long one held on with tape? Long one with zip ties? Can I trust thermal tape to hold, even at higher temps, or is there a real danger they'd fall off? If they do fall off and overheat, would the card shut down gracefully or would it kill the card?
Thanks!


----------



## majnu

Well I'm buggered, the h55 doesn't reach far enough for me to mount on the front custom made 2x120mm slots on the corsair 650d. Also because I have a cryorig ultimate air cooler it won't reach the top mounts. The only possibility is to have it at the rear exhaust slot but then hot air from the cpu will be feeding into the rads.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Well I'm buggered, the h55 doesn't reach far enough for me to mount on the front custom made 2x120mm slots on the corsair 650d. Also because I have a cryorig ultimate air cooler it won't reach the top mounts. The only possibility is to have it at the rear exhaust slot but then hot air from the cpu will be feeding into the rads.


Anyway that you can exhaust the Cryorig out the top?


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Anyway that you can exhaust the Cryorig out the top?


Possibly, I'm just going to have a *** and figure it all out, I think I will need to do what you've suggested but the rads wont be getting fresh air. I could mount this h100i I have in the cupboards doing nothing but need some rad screws.


----------



## markov

i got my vga card layout on internet
which one is vrms to put heatsink ?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markov*
> 
> i got my vga card layout on internet
> which one is vrms to put heatsink ?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


These (Mosfets) will all need heatsinks:


----------



## markov

Quote:


> These (Mosfets) will all need heatsinks:


thanks for info , btw it's ok if I put single heatsink to cover 2 or more vrms ?
its hard to find small heatsink on the market


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Well I'm buggered, the h55 doesn't reach far enough for me to mount on the front custom made 2x120mm slots on the corsair 650d. Also because I have a cryorig ultimate air cooler it won't reach the top mounts. The only possibility is to have it at the rear exhaust slot but then hot air from the cpu will be feeding into the rads.


All sorted now.

Before Temps - Ambient 22.5c (Bear in mind that during these test runs the card throttled down to 1491Mhz after 67c and I had a high fan curve, whilst the MSI has an amazing cooler the fans weren't quiet although are very good):

- Idle - 28c
- Metro LL - 72c
- Valley - 69c
- Hitman Absolution - 59c
- BF4 30 minute multiplayer session, Conquest Large 64 Players - 70c

After Temps - Ambient 23.5 (No throttling due to temps)

- Idle - 22c
- Metro LL - 48c
- Valley - 44c
- Hitman Absolution - 35c
- BF4 30 minute multiplayer session, Conquest Large 64 Players - 46c

I will try and see what overclocks I can get later on on stock, but so far I am chuffed to bits.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Well I'm buggered, the h55 doesn't reach far enough for me to mount on the front custom made 2x120mm slots on the corsair 650d. Also because I have a cryorig ultimate air cooler it won't reach the top mounts. The only possibility is to have it at the rear exhaust slot but then hot air from the cpu will be feeding into the rads.


With a big CPU air cooler like that, the air exhausting from it won't be that warm. It'll be fine with the H55 rad right behind it.

For a while I ran with an H60 rad (for my CPU) stacked on an H55 rad (for the R9 290), with 3 fans all in push-push-pull. That is; the CPU rad fed the GPU rad. All temps were totally fine because the CPU never put off a significant amount of heat during gaming.









Here's a couple pics:


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> All sorted now.
> 
> Before Temps - Ambient 22.5c (Bear in mind that during these test runs the card throttled down to 1491Mhz after 67c and I had a high fan curve, whilst the MSI has an amazing cooler the fans weren't quiet although are very good):
> 
> - Idle - 28c
> - Metro LL - 72c
> - Valley - 69c
> - Hitman Absolution - 59c
> - BF4 30 minute multiplayer session, Conquest Large 64 Players - 70c
> 
> After Temps - Ambient 23.5 (No throttling due to temps)
> 
> - Idle - 22c
> - Metro LL - 48c
> - Valley - 44c
> - Hitman Absolution - 35c
> - BF4 30 minute multiplayer session, Conquest Large 64 Players - 46c
> 
> I will try and see what overclocks I can get later on on stock, but so far I am chuffed to bits.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad to see you got it sorted, I see you mounted the h105. Nice temps on your video card.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markov*
> 
> thanks for info , btw it's ok if I put single heatsink to cover 2 or more vrms ?
> its hard to find small heatsink on the market


Yeah, that should be fine.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> With a big CPU air cooler like that, the air exhausting from it won't be that warm. It'll be fine with the H55 rad right behind it.
> 
> For a while I ran with an H60 rad (for my CPU) stacked on an H55 rad (for the R9 290), with 3 fans all in push-push-pull. That is; the CPU rad fed the GPU rad. All temps were totally fine because the CPU never put off a significant amount of heat during gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple pics:


That looks very compact and lovely









About the G10's 92mm fan I know that some people said that once the case is closed that it is silent, although it isn't too bad there is a whirring sound that is annoying, so I will replace mine probably with a Noctua, I need to find out which is the quietest though. I also checked GPUZ and you can't read vrm temps on the 980ti for some reason so I will find out why that is in the MSI thread.


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> That looks very compact and lovely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the G10's 92mm fan I know that some people said that once the case is closed that it is silent, although it isn't too bad there is a whirring sound that is annoying, so I will replace mine probably with a Noctua, I need to find out which is the quietest though. I also checked GPUZ and you can't read vrm temps on the 980ti for some reason so I will find out why that is in the MSI thread.


I assume it's because they don't have VRM temp sensors on the card like they do on Radeons.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> About the G10's 92mm fan I know that some people said that once the case is closed that it is silent, although it isn't too bad there is a whirring sound that is annoying, so I will replace mine probably with a Noctua, I need to find out which is the quietest though. I also checked GPUZ and you can't read vrm temps on the 980ti for some reason so I will find out why that is in the MSI thread.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I assume it's because they don't have VRM temp sensors on the card like they do on Radeons.


^^

It's hard to measure temp without a sensor.


----------



## DR4G00N

I forgot how good these D12SM-12's were for rads...

Did a comparison by running [email protected] on my 780 Ti @ 1305MHz 1.212V

H75's Stock SP120L's in Push/Pull @ ~2000RPM = 43°C Peak / @ ~1650RPM = 47°C Peak
YL D12SM-12's in Push/Pull @ ~1650RPM = 41°C Peak

It's not a huge difference but I got these YL's for free a while back so I cannot complain.


----------



## Sethos88

Was planning on slapping the G10 on my MSI 980 TI's, as in an SLI setup, the stock setup is just a heat monster. I believe I read the MSI card was very optimal for the G10?

In any case, my question was regarding the AIO. Will mount them in a Phanteks Enthoo Primo with 2 x 140mm exhaust mounts. So I could go with the Kraken X41 which seem to be recommended and a fan I don't know yet, or the commonly used H55 with a Scythe GT, a fan which is highly praised.

So would the H55 + GT be enough to cool these down, would I see a significant improvement on the X41? And what fans would I use on the X41 in that case, preferably fans in black or some sort of red.

Possibly another AIO?


----------



## masteratarms

Do you need a thermal pad on the VRMs of a 280x? I ask because I somehow bricked a powercolor just by cleaning it, renewing thermal paste with arctic silver 5 and using arctic ceramic to mate the VRM with its heatsink. It was 2nd hand and luckily came with some warranty left. The VRMs had a metal casing, and I just checked aluminium is conductive. Also there was less clearance between the VRM heatsink and the components it overhung. I'm going to go with the arctic silver being responsible for bricking as there was a tiny trace of it near some surface mount components after I checked.

What was the recommended thickness of thermal pad? Looking at this:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=TH-015-TG&groupid=701&catid=27
but would arctic ceramic be ok instead?

The RMA will be BNIB Gigabyte 280x but I want to give it a good start with nice cooling.


----------



## Headchair

Hi everyone! So after reading through a bunch of the posts on this thread gave me the confidence to put an aio on my gpu. I never really looked at water cooling as an option as I was trying to build a silent pc, and was concerned about pump noise. Decided to share my experiences for anyone looking for an ultra quiet rig.
After reading SPCR's review on the Kraken series and the many positive results here I pulled the trigger. Thankfully the unit's pump I got at 7V and the case closed is inaudible.
My setup is a little wierd as I have an x61 with a single Silent Wings fan pushing air through it. The cpu socket is pretty high on the mobo so the cooler on it won't allow me to mount another fan to the gpu rad. Was aware of this when making the purchase, but decided to go with a 280 radiator so I can mount the other fan when I upgrade the motherboard and I am not at all concerned with temps as long as the card isn't throttling. Plus the extra surface area can act as passive cooling. I am running this single fan at a very low speed, the pump at 7V and the case top panel further inhibits airflow (and dampens noise) and my gpu temp is 71C at an ambient of 36C, overclocked to 1507mhz. I think cooking an egg on the top panel at load would be a reasonable endeavor. Couple this with a Dark Rock Pro 3 with barely moving fans you have the world's quietest space heater that can run games.
I am extremely pleased with the setup, my only concern is VRM temps. The gtx 970 ssc has the VRMs across from the G10's fan. It does have a midplate that thankfully dosen't interfere with mounting the aio, but I am still concerned since there is no way to monitor the VRM temps on this card. Tried touching the plate over them at load and it gets crazy hot. I ended up ghetto-fitting a 92mm fan under the card but isn't a secure or pretty setup. My question is; do I need the extra fan there? Wouldn't the midplate transfer the heat across the entire board and get cooled by the fan on the g10? I will borrow a multimeter from a friend today and measure the temps on the heatspreader but don't know how good that will be seeing as I have no idea how it relates to the actual temps of the VRMs.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Headchair*
> 
> Hi everyone! So after reading through a bunch of the posts on this thread gave me the confidence to put an aio on my gpu. I never really looked at water cooling as an option as I was trying to build a silent pc, and was concerned about pump noise. Decided to share my experiences for anyone looking for an ultra quiet rig.
> After reading SPCR's review on the Kraken series and the many positive results here I pulled the trigger. Thankfully the unit's pump I got at 7V and the case closed is inaudible.
> My setup is a little wierd as I have an x61 with a single Silent Wings fan pushing air through it. The cpu socket is pretty high on the mobo so the cooler on it won't allow me to mount another fan to the gpu rad. Was aware of this when making the purchase, but decided to go with a 280 radiator so I can mount the other fan when I upgrade the motherboard and I am not at all concerned with temps as long as the card isn't throttling. Plus the extra surface area can act as passive cooling. I am running this single fan at a very low speed, the pump at 7V and the case top panel further inhibits airflow (and dampens noise) and my gpu temp is 71C at an ambient of 36C, overclocked to 1507mhz. I think cooking an egg on the top panel at load would be a reasonable endeavor. Couple this with a Dark Rock Pro 3 with barely moving fans you have the world's quietest space heater that can run games.
> I am extremely pleased with the setup, my only concern is VRM temps. The gtx 970 ssc has the VRMs across from the G10's fan. It does have a midplate that thankfully dosen't interfere with mounting the aio, but I am still concerned since there is no way to monitor the VRM temps on this card. Tried touching the plate over them at load and it gets crazy hot. I ended up ghetto-fitting a 92mm fan under the card but isn't a secure or pretty setup. My question is; do I need the extra fan there? Wouldn't the midplate transfer the heat across the entire board and get cooled by the fan on the g10? I will borrow a multimeter from a friend today and measure the temps on the heatspreader but don't know how good that will be seeing as I have no idea how it relates to the actual temps of the VRMs.


short answer - yes.

long answer - im really not sure how to mount it - i have this problem with my 970 Mini but luckily i am in a mitx case with 3 pcie clots and then fan mounts below that so i have airflow. from what ive seen the best way is to buy a pcie 120mm fan mount and have that in the pcie slot below the card and mount 1 or 2 120mm fans to that. not overly pretty but not too bad if you pick the right fans/paint it up.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr82/t258jgn/sale10032010/BS-08-04.jpg


----------



## Sethos88

Well, my plan so far is to slap on my 2 x MSI 980 Ti

2 x G10
2 x Kraken X31
2 x Noctua Redux NF-B9 (for the bracket)
2 x Scythe GT AP-14

Does that sound like a solid setup or does anyone have some suggestions / recommendations?


----------



## beasty54

I've got 2 G10s mounted on my 980TI amp extremes but I'm only using corsair H55 AIO coolers. I expected my top card to get hotter than the bottom one but I was really hoping not to see the temperature reach about 68c when gaming in 4K.
I'm using push pull on both GPU rads and I've got a huge corsair 900D case with a lot of intakes and exhaust fans so I really was hoping to see no more than 60c on the top card.
For those with a lot more experience with water cooling, would you say the high temperatures are just down to the single rads on each GPU?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beasty54*
> 
> I've got 2 G10s mounted on my 980TI amp extremes but I'm only using corsair H55 AIO coolers. I expected my top card to get hotter than the bottom one but I was really hoping not to see the temperature reach about 68c when gaming in 4K.
> I'm using push pull on both GPU rads and I've got a huge corsair 900D case with a lot of intakes and exhaust fans so I really was hoping to see no more than 60c on the top card.
> For those with a lot more experience with water cooling, would you say the high temperatures are just down to the single rads on each GPU?


Sounds like a bad mount. Even with a small rad you shouldn't be higher than the mid 50s, even in SLI.

Are you sure your AIO is making clean contact with your gpu chip? Is there a mid-plate on that card that keeps it from touching?


----------



## beasty54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Sounds like a bad mount. Even with a small rad you shouldn't be higher than the mid 50s, even in SLI.
> 
> Are you sure your AIO is making clean contact with your gpu chip? Is there a mid-plate on that card that keeps it from touching?


No there's no mid plate so the contact should be good, I might strip them down and try for a better contact then.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beasty54*
> 
> No there's no mid plate so the contact should be good, I might strip them down and try for a better contact then.


Yeah, do that because something's not right. Either it's a bad TIM job, the mount's crooked, or you didn't tighten it down all the way. Is the pump functioning properly? I'd suggest you plug it directly into your PSU if possible to make sure it's running at 100% all the time.


----------



## beasty54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Yeah, do that because something's not right. Either it's a bad TIM job, the mount's crooked, or you didn't tighten it down all the way. Is the pump functioning properly? I'd suggest you plug it directly into your PSU if possible to make sure it's running at 100% all the time.


It's most probably not tight enough, with it all being a custom bracket made for many boards I wasn't sure how tight it should be. The pumps are connected directly to the board but are running at 100% according to the bios and command centre software. I'll strip it all down anyway, clean up the thermal paste and start again,i may order some 3 pin to molex connectors too just to make sure the pumps are at 100%


----------



## slickric21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beasty54*
> 
> I've got 2 G10s mounted on my 980TI amp extremes but I'm only using corsair H55 AIO coolers. I expected my top card to get hotter than the bottom one but I was really hoping not to see the temperature reach about 68c when gaming in 4K.
> I'm using push pull on both GPU rads and I've got a huge corsair 900D case with a lot of intakes and exhaust fans so I really was hoping to see no more than 60c on the top card.
> For those with a lot more experience with water cooling, would you say the high temperatures are just down to the single rads on each GPU?


Yeah I echo what Sorphius has said, bad mount or TIM application.

Im running a eVGA 980ti SC ACX version, kept the mid plate on so needed a 25x25x1.6mm shim. AIO is a H75 push/pull fan running as an exhaust.

First attempt I used MX4 and only tightened the screws hand tight on the mount. Running at 1400mhz and 110% power I was seeing temps after an hour or more of heaven looping at 62'c.

Wasnt happy with that, thought it may be because of the shim at first, but gave it another try at mounting and used Gelid GC 3 Exteme TIM.
Also tightened the mounting screws by hand, then nipped them up via screwdriver.

Now seeing temps maxing at 55'c.

The better TIM will account for a couple of these 'c better performance, which leaves another 5'c or so due to the better mount this time.


----------



## rhadoo04

I use an g10 + h90 on my msi 980ti gaming because it reached 75c. Right now my room temp is close to 30c and Im seeing temps at load 55-58c max and 38c in idle. I run my fans dead silent so my PC even at load does not make any noise.
Are those temps ok with a h90? Should i remount? My guess is that it could do better with lower ambient temps but right now this heat is unbearable.
The H90 is in a push/pull mounted as rear exhaust. The rear of the case is 15cm from a wall and hot air gets trapped there.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhadoo04*
> 
> I use an g10 + h90 on my msi 980ti gaming because it reached 75c. Right now my room temp is close to 30c and Im seeing temps at load 55-58c max and 38c in idle. I run my fans dead silent so my PC even at load does not make any noise.
> Are those temps ok with a h90? Should i remount? My guess is that it could do better with lower ambient temps but right now this heat is unbearable.
> The H90 is in a push/pull mounted as rear exhaust. The rear of the case is 15cm from a wall and hot air gets trapped there.


It's a little warmer than I would expect, but I don't think it's worth going to the trouble of remounting over. FWIW, I'm using a g10/H90 combo on my 980ti SC+ ACX+ and my temps top out around 53°C under load with the clock boosting to 1493. Ambient in my room is ~24C, though, so that no doubt contributes.

I have the h90 mounted in the rear exhaust and have the fan (Noctua NF-A14 Industrial) set to never go over 65% to minimize noise.

One thing you might try is to take off your "pull" fan. I had mine set up as push/pull, but I ended up taking off the second fan due to space constraints and my temps inexplicably dropped about 3 degrees.


----------



## Jeptil0t

If your GPU temps are below 60c, it really isn't worth getting it any lower, even if you could.

You aren't getting more OC headroom at 50c or even 40c, so there is no performance benefit to tweaking thermals pads and paste to go lower, which honestly is why an AIO solution is a great alternative to a custom loop. I have an old HD4870 that has run over 90c it's whole lifespan and it still works perfectly, so even suggestions that silicon will degrade over time at 'high' temperatures is pretty dubious in general, in any real world applications at least.

Perfect example: I had an R9 290 with a Kraken X40 maxing at 65c under load, moved to a custom loop which reduced temps to 40c max and the additional performance I can get out of the card is nothing. Even trimming the max VRM temps well below lets say 80c is going to be a pretty fruitless endeavor.

Obviously an AIO is a significant improvement over most if not all air coolers (supplementary PCB component cooling aside), allowing you to get the maximum overclock from your card. To go any lower is really just personal preference or a bi-product of having a blinged out custom loop with dye.


----------



## Jeptil0t

Also what Sorph's recommendation regarding fans is going to be the most significant factor as far as improving performance, but will cost you noise and as I said you won't get any more performance headroom.

With an X40 I changed up the stock NZXT fan for 2 x EK Vadar fans with obscene static pressure in push-pull at 2000 rpm which dropped the temps by quite a ways, but made no real difference other than being significantly louder, so in general if you can rock sub 60c with silence, that's that.


----------



## rhadoo04

The H90 has a Noctua A14 PWM as Pull and the stock corsair fan as push. Surprisingly I can run the stock fan at higher RPM than the Noctua as it is quieter. I will test today about moving the rad to the top as heat won't get stuck in the back of the case. At the top I have another Noctua A14 as exhaust. Will come back with results. Thanks guys


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhadoo04*
> 
> I use an g10 + h90 on my msi 980ti gaming because it reached 75c.
> 
> Right now my room temp is close to 30c and Im seeing temps at load 55-58c max and 38c in idle.
> 
> I run my fans dead silent so my PC even at load does not make any noise.
> Are those temps ok with a h90? Should i remount? My guess is that it could do better with lower ambient temps but right now this heat is unbearable.
> The H90 is in a push/pull mounted as rear exhaust. The rear of the case is 15cm from a wall and hot air gets trapped there.


I would say your temps are spot on due to your ambient temps and low fan speed.what are your fans running at btw? I would also move your case further away just to allow the exhaust air to freely circulate into the environment.

For example my H55 is running Scythe ap15s in push pull at 900rpm as exhausts, I bought a second hand h55 there was no pre applied tim so I used CLU. My ambients were 23c and playing Metro LL for an hour I saw my temps peak at 53c. I coupd get mine lower by running the fans as intakes and turning up the fan speed but then there would only be a couple of degrees difference and the trade of would be extra noise.


----------



## rhadoo04

The 2xNoctua A14 exhaust fans are running at 700RPM. They go to 800RPM when temps go above 55C.
The corsair H90 stock fan is running at 800RPM and going up as temps go up. This fan is quieter than the Noctua (surprised me also) so I can run it at higher RPMs.
My 2x Fractal GP14 Intakes are running at full speed via case fan controller. I think 1100RPM or something. Inside the case in front of these fans there is the H110i GT Radiator mounted.

I used a Tuniq TX2 on both GPU and CPU. Did not even try the H90 pre-applied TIM

The whole PC is dead silent, no noise coming from any fan even at load.


----------



## penguinzrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhadoo04*
> 
> I use an g10 + h90 on my msi 980ti gaming because it reached 75c. Right now my room temp is close to 30c and Im seeing temps at load 55-58c max and 38c in idle. I run my fans dead silent so my PC even at load does not make any noise.
> Are those temps ok with a h90? Should i remount? My guess is that it could do better with lower ambient temps but right now this heat is unbearable.
> The H90 is in a push/pull mounted as rear exhaust. The rear of the case is 15cm from a wall and hot air gets trapped there.


Hi there! Running a similar setup myself, and wanted to post my results.

MSi 980Ti + G10 + NZXT x41, push/pull with 140mm V2 fans.

1539 Mhz stable so far, not sure how to see mem clocks. 43 degrees max under load.
The midplate really does wonders for overclocking. My Gigabyte 980 struggled to top 1354Mhz, but mostly because the VRMs weren't cooled at all.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DogeCoinOP

Hi all I need some help to troubleshoot an issue I'm having. My setup:

980ti acx2.0
25x25x1.5 copper shim
G10 bracket
H55 aio
Arctic silver 5 TIM

I tried to install the aio on the 980ti acx card and when playing witcher3 my temps start off fine but then slowly rise to 72+ celcius this is worse then air. I reinstalled twice assuming something went wrong and everytime I remove it seems the shim slides down a little off center I try to keep it centered when installing but it always slides down could that impact temps by that much since I see people posting max 59 degrees on load.

I have my rad in push pull from the bottom pushing air to the top of my case. Is it possible that the heat is pushing back onto the card?

I'm hoping it's not the TIM and I'm not over applying, just a pea size on both sides of the shim for full contact.

For now I put back my acx cooler only to see the same temps as my disappointed aio cooler was showing any feedback would be helpful thank you


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeCoinOP*
> 
> Hi all I need some help to troubleshoot an issue I'm having. My setup:
> 
> 980ti acx2.0
> 25x25x1.5 copper shim
> G10 bracket
> H55 aio
> Arctic silver 5 TIM
> 
> I tried to install the aio on the 980ti acx card and when playing witcher3 my temps start off fine but then slowly rise to 72+ celcius this is worse then air. I reinstalled twice assuming something went wrong and everytime I remove it seems the shim slides down a little off center I try to keep it centered when installing but it always slides down could that impact temps by that much since I see people posting max 59 degrees on load.
> 
> I have my rad in push pull from the bottom pushing air to the top of my case. Is it possible that the heat is pushing back onto the card?
> 
> I'm hoping it's not the TIM and I'm not over applying, just a pea size on both sides of the shim for full contact.
> 
> For now I put back my acx cooler only to see the same temps as my disappointed aio cooler was showing any feedback would be helpful thank you


Might be worthwhile sending Sorphius a PM if you need a quick answer. That's if he doesn't read your post.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1558645/official-nvidia-gtx-980-ti-owners-club/3540#post_24145301


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Might be worthwhile sending Sorphius a PM if you need a quick answer. That's if he doesn't read your post.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1558645/official-nvidia-gtx-980-ti-owners-club/3540#post_24145301


You called?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeCoinOP*
> 
> Hi all I need some help to troubleshoot an issue I'm having. My setup:
> 
> 980ti acx2.0
> 25x25x1.5 copper shim
> G10 bracket
> H55 aio
> Arctic silver 5 TIM
> 
> I tried to install the aio on the 980ti acx card and when playing witcher3 my temps start off fine but then slowly rise to 72+ celcius this is worse then air. I reinstalled twice assuming something went wrong and everytime I remove it seems the shim slides down a little off center I try to keep it centered when installing but it always slides down could that impact temps by that much since I see people posting max 59 degrees on load.
> 
> I have my rad in push pull from the bottom pushing air to the top of my case. Is it possible that the heat is pushing back onto the card?
> 
> I'm hoping it's not the TIM and I'm not over applying, just a pea size on both sides of the shim for full contact.
> 
> For now I put back my acx cooler only to see the same temps as my disappointed aio cooler was showing any feedback would be helpful thank you


Sounds like a couple of things could be happening.

Make sure your pump is running full-out. You should be able to feel the hoses vibrating gently (one more than the other) when you touch them. Ideally you want the pump plugged directly into your power supply. If you can't do that, either use a program like SpeedFan or edit the BIOS to make sure that the MoBo header it's plugged into is set to run at 100% all the time.
Bad mount -- The G10 seems to have been designed with complete reference cards in mind. To that end, the foam standoffs that you're supposed to mount by the fan are too tall for a card with a midplate and you end up with the bracket sitting crooked. Either trim them down or remove them entirely (they're not necessary) to make sure that the bracket is sitting parallel to your PCB. Furthermore, if your card has a backplate, try removing the foam pad from the G10's rear mounting plate to ensure that the screws are long enough.
Re: the shim... try to press it down a little bit before you put the second drop of TIM and mount the cooler. It doesn't have to be much, but if you just use a screwdriver or pair of tweezers to gently compress it and try to spread the TIM paste underneath it, it shouldn't move as much when you place the AIO on top of it.
I don't know if venting the hot air back into the case alone would be enough to increase your temps that much, but it certainly doesn't help. If you think about it... venting hot air from the radiator back into the case has the same thermal effect as running the ACX fan and venting the heat back into the case. Is there any way that you can mount your radiator as exhaust? I have my radiator mounted as my rear case exhaust... if you can't do that, at the very least try reversing your fans and venting the heat out the bottom. You need to get it out somehow.


----------



## Crazy G

How are you cooling the VRAM´s and VRM´s?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy G*
> 
> How are you cooling the VRAM´s and VRM´s?


The G10's fan blows air over the VRMs on most cards which, coupled with a built-in midplate on the card and/or small aftermarket vga heatsinks, is enough to keep them cool as long as you aren't doing anything stupid. The VRAM doesn't require additional cooling unless, again, you're doing something stupid. However, many cards' midplates also cover the VRAM, which gives them ample cooling.


----------



## Stephen88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeCoinOP*
> 
> Hi all I need some help to troubleshoot an issue I'm having. My setup:
> 
> 980ti acx2.0
> 25x25x1.5 copper shim
> G10 bracket
> H55 aio
> Arctic silver 5 TIM
> 
> I tried to install the aio on the 980ti acx card and when playing witcher3 my temps start off fine but then slowly rise to 72+ celcius this is worse then air. I reinstalled twice assuming something went wrong and everytime I remove it seems the shim slides down a little off center I try to keep it centered when installing but it always slides down could that impact temps by that much since I see people posting max 59 degrees on load.
> 
> I have my rad in push pull from the bottom pushing air to the top of my case. Is it possible that the heat is pushing back onto the card?
> 
> I'm hoping it's not the TIM and I'm not over applying, just a pea size on both sides of the shim for full contact.
> 
> For now I put back my acx cooler only to see the same temps as my disappointed aio cooler was showing any feedback would be helpful thank you


as has already told the other user, check if the pump works but I am more than certain that the problem is caused by the copper shim, remove it and apply a double X on gpu core and contact directly to H55 waterblock and remount all.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stephen88*
> 
> as has already told the other user, check if the pump works but I am more than certain that the problem is caused by the copper shim, remove it and apply a double X on gpu core and contact directly to H55 waterblock and remount all.


He's using an EVGA ACX card. Its midplate design requires that either you use a 1.5mm shim or void your warranty by chopping off the parts of the midplate that prevent the AIO heatplate from making direct contact with the die.


----------



## Crazy G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> The G10's fan blows air over the VRMs on most cards which, coupled with a built-in midplate on the card and/or small aftermarket vga heatsinks, is enough to keep them cool as long as you aren't doing anything stupid. The VRAM doesn't require additional cooling unless, again, you're doing something stupid. However, many cards' midplates also cover the VRAM, which gives them ample cooling.


Thanks for the info. How about the back plate? I´m using lots of small heatsinks in front and back and a 12cm fan blowing air over the cleared space left the G10 plate. In Valley with a 1460/7800 OC, 1.218v max 58°C. BTW I´m on a Titan X


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy G*
> 
> Thanks for the info. How about the back plate? I´m using lots of small heatsinks in front and back and a 12cm fan blowing air over the cleared space left the G10 plate. In Valley with a 1460/7800 OC, 1.218v max 58°C. BTW I´m on a Titan X


I had a couple of copper heatsinks left over that I slapped onto my Kraken's mounting plate for good measure since I found that it got incredibly hot to the touch (I removed the foam pad, so it rests flat against my card's backplate and picks up heat from the chip). Additional heatsinks on the backplate are probably more prudent for a Titan X than they are for the 980ti since it has 12 RAM chips on the back of the PCB, but again... the VRAM doesn't really require any cooling anyway so it's not necessary unless you just want the peace of mind.


----------



## Crazy G

What areas of the mounting plate? I think any warm/hot area/component that you can add heatsinks and/or blowing air helps the overall cooling. The limitation is noise.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy G*
> 
> What areas of the mounting plate? I think any warm/hot area/component that you can add heatsinks and/or blowing air helps the overall cooling. The limitation is noise.


The actual backplate itself. You can see it a little bit in this picture.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeCoinOP*
> 
> Hi all I need some help to troubleshoot an issue I'm having. My setup:
> 
> 980ti acx2.0
> 25x25x1.5 copper shim
> G10 bracket
> H55 aio
> Arctic silver 5 TIM
> 
> I tried to install the aio on the 980ti acx card and when playing witcher3 my temps start off fine but then slowly rise to 72+ celcius this is worse then air. I reinstalled twice assuming something went wrong and everytime I remove it seems the shim slides down a little off center I try to keep it centered when installing but it always slides down could that impact temps by that much since I see people posting max 59 degrees on load.
> 
> I have my rad in push pull from the bottom pushing air to the top of my case. Is it possible that the heat is pushing back onto the card?
> 
> I'm hoping it's not the TIM and I'm not over applying, just a pea size on both sides of the shim for full contact.
> 
> For now I put back my acx cooler only to see the same temps as my disappointed aio cooler was showing any feedback would be helpful thank you


From my experience, the GPU's AIO radiator is really hot. Therefore, exhaust is best. Push/pull is not critical in this case. There's little reason to mount as intake. Cold air will simply be converted to hot air and blow at the GPU or other case components.

As the AIO keeps the GPU cool, u will find the case is actually kept pretty cool even without intake fans. Contrast this with a open GPU where hot air gets blown all over the place and the user has to put intake exhaust fans. That's one of the good things about putting the GPU under water.

For those whose GPU don't have a temp sensor for VRMs, u may get a laser type of temp instrument. Point it at the location and the sensor will pick up some readings.


----------



## Kinglame9000

updatedddddd



So now im cooling my 980's with the Kraken G10's and 2 corsair h80's! these were previously on my set of 780's!


----------



## Crazy G

A picture worth a thousand words, thanks.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinglame9000*
> 
> updatedddddd
> 
> So now im cooling my 980's with the Kraken G10's and 2 corsair h80's! these were previously on my set of 780's!


The H80 fits the G10?


----------



## DogeCoinOP

Hi again, sorry I couldn't respond back as I was working all day I will try all your methods out and let you know. I'm glad this forum is very active and helpful!!


----------



## masteratarms

Is it dangerous to use thermal paste instal of electrically insulating pads on the VRM specifically the R9 280x?


----------



## trento

It's dangerous as the paste may melt. In any case, some GPU's have heatsinks on the VRMs. Do check if yours has. If so, there's no need to place heatsinks there.


----------



## masteratarms

Even if the thermal paste is electrically non conductive, with just the aluminium being a conductor?


----------



## 1Scotty1

Hey,

I was considering getting the G10 for my EVGA GTX 980Ti Superclocked (reference) but on the NZXT website it is not listed as compatible. So is it true? I cant use it, or it is just not updated on the site? I really want to get this, because temps reach 84°C on load









Thanks


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I was considering getting the G10 for my EVGA GTX 980Ti Superclocked (reference) but on the NZXT website it is not listed as compatible. So is it true? I cant use it, or it is just not updated on the site? I really want to get this, because temps reach 84°C on load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Welcome to OCN, Scotty.

AFAIK it should work. The MSI 980ti is a perfect match for the G10 (in fact I just installed it a few hours ago), but I believe the Evga card will work fine. NZXT hasn't bothered to update their compatibility list.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Welcome to OCN, Scotty.
> 
> AFAIK it should work. The MSI 980ti is a perfect match for the G10 (in fact I just installed it a few hours ago), but I believe the Evga card will work fine. NZXT hasn't bothered to update their compatibility list.


Phew, that is good to hear







now to find a decent AiO for it... thanks


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Phew, that is good to hear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now to find a decent AiO for it... thanks


I am using the x61 for the 980ti. Some say it's overkill but I think overkill is underrated... Push-pull with a 540 air case... I don't see why not.

Important to note... The G10 is compatible with many, many GPUs but the bracket for the AIO cooler isn't compatible with any AIO you find. If you try to grab an AIO from Corsair for example that's not on the compatibility list, it won't work because of the shape (non-Asetek cooler I believe). If it states "compatible with H110" and you grab an H110i, it won't work. One exception might be the very latest from Corsair, their H110i GTX and stuff. Lays thinks it will work, but I never stuck around to find out because I got my x61 used for a good deal.

If money is tight though I'm sure the x41 or Corsair equivalent will be fine and still much better than the air cooler.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I am using the x61 for the 980ti. Some say it's overkill but I think overkill is underrated... Push-pull with a 540 air case... I don't see why not.
> 
> Important to note... The G10 is compatible with many, many GPUs but the bracket for the AIO cooler isn't compatible with any AIO you find. If you try to grab an AIO from Corsair for example that's not on the compatibility list, it won't work because of the shape (non-Asetek cooler I believe). If it states "compatible with H110" and you grab an H110i, it won't work. One exception might be the very latest from Corsair, their H110i GTX and stuff. Lays thinks it will work, but I never stuck around to find out because I got my x61 used for a good deal.
> 
> If money is tight though I'm sure the x41 or Corsair equivalent will be fine and still much better than the air cooler.


I know about the "square" block AiOs







is the H55 from Corsair enough? I see many people use this combo, it is 25€ cheaper here compared to the X41 and seeing I already have one X61 on my CPU and my case is the H440 there is no other place to put another X61 other than the front, which I don't want to do.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> I know about the "square" block AiOs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is the H55 from Corsair enough? I see many people use this combo, it is 25€ cheaper here compared to the X41 and seeing I already have one X61 on my CPU and my case is the H440 there is no other place to put another X61 other than the front, which I don't want to do.


I think it'll make a good difference. Replace it with a Gentle Typhoon though?


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I think it'll make a good difference. Replace it with a Gentle Typhoon though?


If I get the H55 I will definitely replace the stock fan







Either a Gentle Typhoon or Fractal Venturi HP-12


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I think it'll make a good difference. Replace it with a Gentle Typhoon though?


Heh, found a new X31 for 65€ - getting that


----------



## DogeCoinOP

Hi @Sorphius,@trento@Stephen88,

I will try all your methods but first I will explain what I experienced when I installed the h55 onto my 980ti acx w backplate.

When I launched witcher3 I thought it was the pump also I checked by hand and felt the pump was pulsing bit diddnt see if it was at 100% so I'll check that out.But slowly the themps rose it was well at 55degrees but after 3 min it rose to 70degrees. I'm guessing the shim was moving while gaming or benching. How tight should you screw down? Ps I'm using the 4 long screws that come with the g10 bracket (plastic washer/rubber washer at the end since I'm retaining my gfx card backplate and not using the back mount the g10 came with)

When I applied the Tim the second time I made sure to press gently to spread paste so the shim did not slide, however it did slide down again and I'm thinking it's because I tightened down the screws not evenly at all 4 angles.

Sorphius, you mentioned the foam that comes with g10 should be cut or removed, I will try that since I was using two and the bracket looked crooked.

Lastly, I might be concerned with Tim as people suggest gelid extreme here's a link to my paste http://m.canadacomputers.com/mobile/itemid/021296 and here's what I'm cleaning with http://m.canadacomputers.com/mobile/itemid/026843 I just use paper towels to wipe off. Also the shim I bought was here http://m.ebay.ca/itm/200618079829 it came a little scratched up do u think I should buff it up?

Sorry for the long post as I usually don't have time I'm my say recently to make short posts, thanks!


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeCoinOP*
> 
> Hi @Sorphius,@trento@Stephen88,
> 
> I will try all your methods but first I will explain what I experienced when I installed the h55 onto my 980ti acx w backplate.
> 
> When I launched witcher3 I thought it was the pump also I checked by hand and felt the pump was pulsing bit diddnt see if it was at 100% so I'll check that out.But slowly the themps rose it was well at 55degrees but after 3 min it rose to 70degrees. I'm guessing the shim was moving while gaming or benching. How tight should you screw down? Ps I'm using the 4 long screws that come with the g10 bracket (plastic washer/rubber washer at the end since I'm retaining my gfx card backplate and not using the back mount the g10 came with)
> 
> When I applied the Tim the second time I made sure to press gently to spread paste so the shim did not slide, however it did slide down again and I'm thinking it's because I tightened down the screws not evenly at all 4 angles.
> 
> Sorphius, you mentioned the foam that comes with g10 should be cut or removed, I will try that since I was using two and the bracket looked crooked.
> 
> Lastly, I might be concerned with Tim as people suggest gelid extreme here's a link to my paste http://m.canadacomputers.com/mobile/itemid/021296 and here's what I'm cleaning with http://m.canadacomputers.com/mobile/itemid/026843 I just use paper towels to wipe off. Also the shim I bought was here http://m.ebay.ca/itm/200618079829 it came a little scratched up do u think I should buff it up?
> 
> Sorry for the long post as I usually don't have time I'm my say recently to make short posts, thanks!


If your shim is moving while gaming, you're doing it wrong. I know people say to be careful not to tighten it too much, but you want it to be secure. My suggestion is tighten as much as you can by hand and then give each one a turn with a screwdriver. Tight is good; you just don't want to ratchet it down so hard that you crack the chip (which takes a lot of pressure).

If you're being too gentle with it, it's probably the case that you just aren't tightening it enough I get good contact.

*Edit: If the bracket looked crooked, it probably was, which can go a long way toward giving you improper contact. I'd suggest you do exactly what I did (I have the same card):

Remove the foam and washers from the G10 backplate and thumbscrews and mount the G10 over your card's backplate.
Remove the foam standoffs for the G10 bracket (as I said, they're not required and really only serve to cause more problems in my experience)
When you're installing the AIO, tighten the screws gradually in an "X" pattern, like you would if you were tightening a drumhead or the lug nuts on a car. Don't tighten one all the way and then go on to the next -- do a turn or two at a time all the way around. That helps to gradually spread the TIM and keeps your shim from getting squeezed to one side or the other.
Once all the screws are finger-tight, give each one a final turn with a screwdriver. You want the mount to be snug to ensure proper heat transfer -- especially if your shim has scratches on it.
Don't worry about scratches on your shim. As long as you've cleaned the surface thoroughly, the thermal compound will do the rest. THAT'S WHAT IT'S THERE FOR!


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Even if the thermal paste is electrically non conductive, with just the aluminium being a conductor?


it's not the paste, but the aluminium. if it drops on the mobo, may short some components.


----------



## Someone09

So, my 1.5mm shim already arrived today.
Had I know a delivery from China only takes 7 days longer, I would have waited installing the G10 for another week. lol

Anyway, I hope I´ll have time tomorrow to switch out the shims and see how much of a difference it makes. Especially since the temperature behaviour of my card/G10 has been a bit...strange...as of late.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> So, my 1.5mm shim already arrived today.
> Had I know a delivery from China only takes 7 days longer, I would have waited installing the G10 for another week. lol
> 
> Anyway, I hope I´ll have time tomorrow to switch out the shims and see how much of a difference it makes. Especially since the temperature behaviour of my card/G10 has been a bit...strange...as of late.


Hey, can you provide a link for the shim? I need one for my EVGA 980Ti Superclocked and all I could find is on US ebay, where shipping is triple the price of the shim







Thanks


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey, can you provide a link for the shim? I need one for my EVGA 980Ti Superclocked and all I could find is on US ebay, where shipping is triple the price of the shim
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Here is a link to a 1.2mm thick shim which is plenty. I've used this one and it works great. http://www.amazon.com/1-2mm-Heatsink-Thermal-Copper-Laptop/dp/B007PODQTQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1438232677&sr=1-3&keywords=copper+shim


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> That looks very compact and lovely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the G10's 92mm fan I know that some people said that once the case is closed that it is silent, although it isn't too bad there is a whirring sound that is annoying, so I will replace mine probably with a Noctua, I need to find out which is the quietest though. I also checked GPUZ and you can't read vrm temps on the 980ti for some reason so I will find out why that is in the MSI thread.


You can hear the sound of the Noctua NF-B9 in this video. Sounds pretty silent and the numbers look good also. http://youtu.be/TcuSHFob4qM


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> Here is a link to a 1.2mm thick shim which is plenty. I've used this one and it works great. http://www.amazon.com/1-2mm-Heatsink-Thermal-Copper-Laptop/dp/B007PODQTQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1438232677&sr=1-3&keywords=copper+shim


1,2mm is plenty? Hmm, I got recommended the 1,6mm, don't know why then... but if you have it on your 980Ti and have no issues, then I can get it and be safe









EDIT: This is 15mm x 15mm, isn't that small? the GPU die is 25x25mm from what I have seen


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> 1,2mm is plenty? Hmm, I got recommended the 1,6mm, don't know why then... but if you have it on your 980Ti and have no issues, then I can get it and be safe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: This is 15mm x 15mm, isn't that small? the GPU die is 25x25mm from what I have seen


Sorry, this is the one... http://www.amazon.com/20x20x1-2mm-Heatsink-Copper-Thermal-Laptop/dp/B00H7D1ACA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1438233438&sr=1-1&keywords=4pcs+20x20x1.2mm+Heatsink+Copper+Pad+Shim+%2B+Thermal+Paste+Laptop+GPU+Repair+Kit


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> 1,2mm is plenty? Hmm, I got recommended the 1,6mm, don't know why then... but if you have it on your 980Ti and have no issues, then I can get it and be safe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: This is 15mm x 15mm, isn't that small? the GPU die is 25x25mm from what I have seen


i believe the shim should be larger than the GPU die. for eg, EK sells the shim for R9 280. It's much wider than the die itself. It makes sense as u wana cover the whole surface.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> Sorry, this is the one... http://www.amazon.com/20x20x1-2mm-Heatsink-Copper-Thermal-Laptop/dp/B00H7D1ACA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1438233438&sr=1-1&keywords=4pcs+20x20x1.2mm+Heatsink+Copper+Pad+Shim+%2B+Thermal+Paste+Laptop+GPU+Repair+Kit


thanks







I found a 1,2mm on on Aliexpress and it is 25x25mm - think that is too much?

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/5x-25mm-25mm-1-2mm-Copper-shim-Thermal-pads-for-Dell-XPS-M1330-GPU-VGA/1179968_1826327293.html


----------



## PCGameFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found a 1,2mm on on Aliexpress and it is 25x25mm - think that is too much?
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/5x-25mm-25mm-1-2mm-Copper-shim-Thermal-pads-for-Dell-XPS-M1330-GPU-VGA/1179968_1826327293.html


That one should be fine. I used the 20mm and it worked great but the 25mm will fit the die almost perfectly.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCGameFan*
> 
> That one should be fine. I used the 20mm and it worked great but the 25mm will fit the die almost perfectly.


So the dimensions are perfect, just the thickness is what bothers me... If the 1,2mm is enough, or the AiO would touch the midplate also


----------



## ice2hot

Hi guys.
Planning on buying the g10. One question which cooler would be the best to go with it.

Should I got with the corsair h55 or the nzxt x31. Which one would be compatible with the MSI afterburner user interfaced fan control for me to setup the fan speed. Also what is the temp reduction I should be looking at once I have it installed.

I I have the following build

1-Corsair 230 t casing with an i7 4790k 4.4ghz,
2-Corsair vengeance pro 2400 ddr 3 2400mhz
3- 240gb corsair ssd
4-corsair - 750 fully modular psu
5-gigabyter gtx 980ti reference card- overclocked coreclock+250mhz , memory clock +440, voltage , +power 110%,.voltage +0.87, user defined fan control running at 67% using MSI afterburner GPU temp average at 78 Degrees playing witcher 3
6-gigabyte z97 gaming 3 mother board.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey, can you provide a link for the shim? I need one for my EVGA 980Ti Superclocked and all I could find is on US ebay, where shipping is triple the price of the shim
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I ordered this one:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/310227093171?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I still don´t know if I have the time today to switch out the shims but I will report back with results regarding the 1.2 vs 1.5mm


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> I ordered this one:
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/310227093171?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> I still don´t know if I have the time today to switch out the shims but I will report back with results regarding the 1.2 vs 1.5mm


Disregard my previous post, I ordered the exact same as you posted







20x20x1,5mm







so I think I am good


----------



## Someone09

So, switching out the shims didn´t take as long as I expected and now I am done.

It "looks" like going from a 1.2mm shim to a 1.5mm shim lowered my temperatures by almost 10°C. But I have to do some more testing of course.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> So, switching out the shims didn´t take as long as I expected and now I am done.
> 
> It "looks" like going from a 1.2mm shim to a 1.5mm shim lowered my temperatures by almost 10°C. But I have to do some more testing of course.


That's about the same difference I saw.

Went from ~60-65 with the 1.2mm to ~50-53 with the 1.5.


----------



## Someone09

I might have overestimated the difference a bit.

With the 1.2 I got up to 65°C, now I am at around 58°C.
But still a nice gain for 2 bucks.


----------



## Klutz0

Hey guys,

Just wondering if someone could measure how thick a back-plate-less graphics card with the Kraken G10 is. I'd like the PCB to thickest point measurement, like this:



Two of us over in the Node 304 club are considering MSI's R9 390, but the card is abnormally thick. However, we do know someone was able to fit an NZXT Kraken G10 in a Node 304. Now if we could just confirm that MSI's R9 390 is thinner than a GPU with the Kraken G10, we'd be golden!

Thanks for the help!


----------



## stillWanted

Hi guys, it's been awhile since I posted here. Few months ago I came up with the idea of adding a Kraken G10 + an H55 to my ridiculously loud PNY 970, it appeared that the VRM's were located on the left side of the die which makes the G10's fan blowing air up into nothing

To solve that problem, I bought myself a PCI bracket which would be installed right below my 970 in order to make that fan blow air directly at VRM's (it looks like that  )

Unfortunately I didn't have much time to work on this so I ended up postponing the project and buying nothing more than the bracket, but now that I have plenty of time and that my 970 is suffering from high temps, I decided to get back into this









Actually, while giving a quick look at this thread, I discovered the existence of the pulse modding (  )
which appears to be more convenient than the Kraken G10 since I don't need the one section with the fan, the thing is that i don't know if it will fit my 970 with an H55 since it's only shown as compatible with the H40/H50/H70 on ChilledPC

Anyway, would you recommend it over the Kraken G10 ? it's not much cheaper since it would cost 12€ + 5€ to ship it to France and like 8€ for a decent 80mm fan whereas i can get a G10 for like 27€

I also discovered that Corsair released an HG10 for the 970 but i'm unsure it will ever be released in France so I guess I'd better forget this idea









What do you thing guys ? In my specific situation should I get the G10 or the pulse modding ? Oh and is the H55 good enough to cool my 970, cause i've been talking about it the whole time since it's the cheapest AIO I can get, but if it isn't worth I could totally go for a more pricey one









Thanks in advance!


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stillWanted*
> 
> Hi guys, it's been awhile since I posted here. Few months ago I came up with the idea of adding a Kraken G10 + an H55 to my ridiculously loud PNY 970, it appeared that the VRM's were located on the left side of the die which makes the G10's fan blowing air up into nothing
> 
> To solve that problem, I bought myself a PCI bracket which would be installed right below my 970 in order to make that fan blow air directly at VRM's (it looks like that  )
> 
> Unfortunately I didn't have much time to work on this so I ended up postponing the project and buying nothing more than the bracket, but now that I have plenty of time and that my 970 is suffering from high temps, I decided to get back into this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, while giving a quick look at this thread, I discovered the existence of the pulse modding (  )
> which appears to be more convenient than the Kraken G10 since I don't need the one section with the fan, the thing is that I'm not sure it will fit my 970 with an H55 since it's only shown as compatible with the H40/H50/H70 on ChilledPC
> 
> Anyway, would you recommend it over the Kraken G10 ? it's not much cheaper since it would cost 12€ + 5€ to ship it to France and like 8€ for a decent 80mm fan whereas i can get a G10 for like 27€
> 
> I also discovered that Corsair released an HG10 for the 970 but i'm unsure it will ever be released in France so I guess I'd better forget this idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you thing guys ? Should I get the G10 or the pulse modding ? Oh and is the H55 good enough to cool my 970, cause i've been talking about it the whole time since it's the cheapest AIO I can get but if it isn't worth I could totally go for a more pricey one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I have both the Kraken G10 and the Pulse Modding GPU bracket. I use them on a pair of R9 290 GPUs along with H55s.

The G10 is a much more refined product. The teeth is bent slightly to hold the water pump firmly onto the GPU and the backplate and screw are easy to work with.

As for the Pulse Modding GPU bracket, it's cheaper for a reason. The teeth is flat so if you don't tighten the screws well, it can move. Even when I put it onto my R9 290, I was able to twist the water pump. It's fine if you're careful when you put your GPU back into your system. Also, I hated the screws as the nuts are tiny and a pain to install. Since there's not backplate, I added some rubber washers to where I screw in the nuts so that it won't damage the PCB.

If you don't mind fussing around a bit, the Pulse Modding GPU bracket is okay but the G10 is certainly a much better end user product.


----------



## stillWanted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I have both the Kraken G10 and the Pulse Modding GPU bracket. I use them on a pair of R9 290 GPUs along with H55s.
> 
> The G10 is a much more refined product. The teeth is bent slightly to hold the water pump firmly onto the GPU and the backplate and screw are easy to work with.
> 
> As for the Pulse Modding GPU bracket, it's cheaper for a reason. The teeth is flat so if you don't tighten the screws well, it can move. Even when I put it onto my R9 290, I was able to twist the water pump. It's fine if you're careful when you put your GPU back into your system. Also, I hated the screws as the nuts are tiny and a pain to install. Since there's not backplate, I added some rubber washers to where I screw in the nuts so that it won't damage the PCB.
> 
> If you don't mind fussing around a bit, the Pulse Modding GPU bracket is okay but the G10 is certainly a much better end user product.


Oh, ok, I didn't suspect the pulse modding to be that much of a hassle to install, well since it's not really cheaper for me I guess I'll go for the G10









Do you use any extras like a VGA fan adapter ? And how are you liking yours H55's ?


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stillWanted*
> 
> Oh, ok, I didn't suspect the pulse modding to be that much of a hassle to install, well since it's not really cheaper for me I guess I'll go for the G10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use any extras like a VGA fan adapter ? And how are you liking yours H55's ?


No I didn't add a VGA fan adapter.

Here's my G10 story.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/3080_40#post_23767832
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/3120_40#post_23788787

And my Pulse Modding story.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1203636/official-amd-ati-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-red-mod/2840_40#post_23909162


----------



## DogeCoinOP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> If your shim is moving while gaming, you're doing it wrong. I know people say to be careful not to tighten it too much, but you want it to be secure. My suggestion is tighten as much as you can by hand and then give each one a turn with a screwdriver. Tight is good; you just don't want to ratchet it down so hard that you crack the chip (which takes a lot of pressure).
> 
> If you're being too gentle with it, it's probably the case that you just aren't tightening it enough I get good contact.
> 
> *Edit: If the bracket looked crooked, it probably was, which can go a long way toward giving you improper contact. I'd suggest you do exactly what I did (I have the same card):
> 
> Remove the foam and washers from the G10 backplate and thumbscrews and mount the G10 over your card's backplate.
> Remove the foam standoffs for the G10 bracket (as I said, they're not required and really only serve to cause more problems in my experience)
> When you're installing the AIO, tighten the screws gradually in an "X" pattern, like you would if you were tightening a drumhead or the lug nuts on a car. Don't tighten one all the way and then go on to the next -- do a turn or two at a time all the way around. That helps to gradually spread the TIM and keeps your shim from getting squeezed to one side or the other.
> Once all the screws are finger-tight, give each one a final turn with a screwdriver. You want the mount to be snug to ensure proper heat transfer -- especially if your shim has scratches on it.
> Don't worry about scratches on your shim. As long as you've cleaned the surface thoroughly, the thermal compound will do the rest. THAT'S WHAT IT'S THERE FOR!


Hi again,

So i installed the bracket again yesterday and i did all the methods provided and made sure the shim did not slide this time. I also put the blower as exhaust of the top left of my case. The things i noticed are, yes the temps were low.....at first, but they did take a while to rise up slowly when using valley. I tested it for maybe 5 min and temps went to 70 again the radiator was getting really hot. I plugged the pump directly into the power supply to make sure it was running max.

I dont know if this is an issue but when i felt the pump hose one was vibrating and the other i diddnt feel much, are they both supposed to vibrate? Im hoping my pump is not broken or half broken..Im thinking of buying an h90 maybe that would perform better. PS i am using only one fan on the radiator not push/pull since i dont have another fan. Is the h90 worth getting or even h100 for the gpu or is this overkill? Thanks


----------



## slickric21

I have seen a few people asking where to buy a shim from in this thread for those who have the 980ti evga acx.

I got a 25x25x1.6mm shim in the UK from here
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=160508577947&alt=web


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeCoinOP*
> 
> Hi again,
> 
> So i installed the bracket again yesterday and i did all the methods provided and made sure the shim did not slide this time. I also put the blower as exhaust of the top left of my case. The things i noticed are, yes the temps were low.....at first, but they did take a while to rise up slowly when using valley. I tested it for maybe 5 min and temps went to 70 again the radiator was getting really hot. I plugged the pump directly into the power supply to make sure it was running max.
> 
> I dont know if this is an issue but when i felt the pump hose one was vibrating and the other i diddnt feel much, are they both supposed to vibrate? Im hoping my pump is not broken or half broken..Im thinking of buying an h90 maybe that would perform better. PS i am using only one fan on the radiator not push/pull since i dont have another fan. Is the h90 worth getting or even h100 for the gpu or is this overkill? Thanks


It's normal for one tube to vibrate more than the other... That's the one that takes the water from the pump to the radiator. The other one is the "return" tube, so the liquid going through it isn't coming straight from the pump. That tube will probably also feel a little cooler under load than the one that's vibrating since its getting the water after it's gone through the radiator.

This may be a stupidline of questioning, but here goes.... Is your fan plugged in? If so, what % do you have it running at? And is it pushing air into the radiator or sucking air through it?

I'm personally running an h90 with mine, but most people use the h55 without any issue. In fact, if you hold the 980ti hybrid kit upbside-by-side with an h55, you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference apart from the EVGA branding.


----------



## Crazy G

Here, the definitive cooling solution!









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUbpb23yTK8


----------



## DogeCoinOP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> It's normal for one tube to vibrate more than the other... That's the one that takes the water from the pump to the radiator. The other one is the "return" tube, so the liquid going through it isn't coming straight from the pump. That tube will probably also feel a little cooler under load than the one that's vibrating since its getting the water after it's gone through the radiator.
> 
> This may be a stupidline of questioning, but here goes.... Is your fan plugged in? If so, what % do you have it running at? And is it pushing air into the radiator or sucking air through it?
> 
> I'm personally running an h90 with mine, but most people use the h55 without any issue. In fact, if you hold the 980ti hybrid kit upbside-by-side with an h55, you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference apart from the EVGA branding.


The fan is set to max and plugged into the motherboard fan header and the air is pushing into the radiator as exhaust should I switch it to the fan sucking air through it as exhaust?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeCoinOP*
> 
> The fan is set to max and plugged into the motherboard fan header and the air is pushing into the radiator as exhaust should I switch it to the fan sucking air through it as exhaust?


Hmm, I really don't know... FWIW, the radiator's *supposed* to be hot, so that's not a problem, but your temps really shouldn't be any higher than ~55c or so under load unless your ambient temp is really warm or something. What are the dimensions on your shim again?


----------



## DogeCoinOP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Hmm, I really don't know... FWIW, the radiator's *supposed* to be hot, so that's not a problem, but your temps really shouldn't be any higher than ~55c or so under load unless your ambient temp is really warm or something. What are the dimensions on your shim again?


25x25x1.5mm


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy G*
> 
> Here, the definitive cooling solution!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUbpb23yTK8


lol Tiny Tom is such a nutcase, nice temps though.


----------



## Sakke

I have been looking to get a Kraken G10 and a H55 combination for my Asus R9 280X DCII.

Now I was looking for what I would need next to the bracket and the watercooler.

I would need some heatsinks for the VR(A)M and probably some glue(?) or thermal paste to attach them to the GPU.

Are there any recommendations on both of these? Also do you apply the heatsinks with glue or with thermal paste to the graphics card?

Thanks already! Looking forward to join the owners club







.


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sakke*
> 
> I have been looking to get a Kraken G10 and a H55 combination for my Asus R9 280X DCII.
> 
> Now I was looking for what I would need next to the bracket and the watercooler.
> 
> I would need some heatsinks for the VR(A)M and probably some glue(?) or thermal paste to attach them to the GPU.
> 
> Are there any recommendations on both of these? Also do you apply the heatsinks with glue or with thermal paste to the graphics card?
> 
> Thanks already! Looking forward to join the owners club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You dont need anything. You already have heatsink on the vrm. Just get the bracket and the AIO and you are good to go.


----------



## Sakke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> You dont need anything. You already have heatsink on the vrm. Just get the bracket and the AIO and you are good to go.


So I can just get the aircooler off and get the bracket on and I'm good to go? Is it only on reference cards you need to use heatsinks?

Edit: no need for a shim either?


----------



## gotovato

hey guys quick question, ive had my kraken g10 sli gtx 780 setup for about a year now and lately my top gpu has been running WAY hotter then it use to. bottom card maxes out at 50-55c MAX with overclock. top card gets up to 78c. is the problem with the gpu? or maybe the card just needs to be repasted? any ideas? thanks for any help!


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sakke*
> 
> So I can just get the aircooler off and get the bracket on and I'm good to go? Is it only on reference cards you need to use heatsinks?
> 
> Edit: no need for a shim either?


Correct. Re: the shim, it depends on whether or not the card's mid plate keeps the AIO from making contact with the chip. Do you have/can you find a picture of the card with the fans removed?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotovato*
> 
> hey guys quick question, ive had my kraken g10 sli gtx 780 setup for about a year now and lately my top gpu has been running WAY hotter then it use to. bottom card maxes out at 50-55c MAX with overclock. top card gets up to 78c. is the problem with the gpu? or maybe the card just needs to be repasted? any ideas? thanks for any help!


It couldn't hurt to repaste, but old/dried up paste alone doesn't explain that level of temperature increase. It sounds like the pump on your AIO May be dying. Make sure it's still running.


----------



## gotovato

That was something I thought as well possibly a dying pump. How can I check to see if its still running? Maybe just try and listen for it?


----------



## Sakke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Correct. Re: the shim, it depends on whether or not the card's mid plate keeps the AIO from making contact with the chip. Do you have/can you find a picture of the card with the fans removed?


Think you need this: http://www.lesnumeriques.com/carte-graphique/asus-r9-280x-directcu-ii-top-p17376/test.html


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sakke*
> 
> Think you need this: http://www.lesnumeriques.com/carte-graphique/asus-r9-280x-directcu-ii-top-p17376/test.html


After Doing some googking, it doesn't look like you will need a shim. You should be fine with just the g10 and h55.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> I might have overestimated the difference a bit.
> 
> With the 1.2 I got up to 65°C, now I am at around 58°C.
> But still a nice gain for 2 bucks.


I think I have to revise my statement.
Just hit 63°C again after an hour of gaming. So, basically the same temperatures as with the 1.2mm shim.

I just don´t get why those temps seem to be higher 2-3 days after the installation. Exactly the same as with the smaller shim.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> I think I have to revise my statement.
> Just hit 63°C again after an hour of gaming. So, basically the same temperatures as with the 1.2mm shim.
> 
> I just don´t get why those temps seem to be higher 2-3 days after the installation. Exactly the same as with the smaller shim.


I'd suggest you try remounting. What kind of thermal paste are you using? How much are you putting on each side of the shim?


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I'd suggest you try remounting.


Theoretically, I already did that when I switched out the shims.
But I just ordered the 25x25x1.6 shim that was posted a couple of pages back.
Will remount everything when it arrives.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> What kind of thermal paste are you using?


Prolimatech PK-1.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> How much are you putting on each side of the shim?


I´ve always used the dot method. And when switched to the 1.5mm shim it looked like it had spread quite nicely, too.

EDIT: Also just found a tube of GC Extreme. Might give that one a try when the new shim arrives.


----------



## ice2hot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ice2hot*
> 
> Hi guys.
> Planning on buying the g10. One question which cooler would be the best to go with it.
> 
> Should I got with the corsair h55 or the nzxt x31. Which one would be compatible with the MSI afterburner user interfaced fan control for me to setup the fan speed. Also what is the temp reduction I should be looking at once I have it installed.
> 
> I I have the following build
> 
> 1-Corsair 230 t casing with an i7 4790k 4.4ghz,
> 2-Corsair vengeance pro 2400 ddr 3 2400mhz
> 3- 240gb corsair ssd
> 4-corsair - 750 fully modular psu
> 5-gigabyter gtx 980ti reference card- overclocked coreclock+250mhz , memory clock +440, voltage , +power 110%,.voltage +0.87, user defined fan control running at 67% using MSI afterburner GPU temp average at 78 Degrees playing witcher 3
> 6-gigabyte z97 gaming 3 mother board.


Hi Guys,

Just wanted some help on the above post.

thanks alot


----------



## BlueSaber80

I know quite a few people are using the NZXT Kraken G10 with a Corsair or NZXT water AIO system to cool their MSI Gaming 980 Ti's as it requires no modification to get the GPU down further in temps vs air cooling. Some are using 120mm and others 140mm.

Unfortuantly, the only way I could use a 140mm is to put one on the intake front of my HAF XB EVO which then limits me to only a 140mm for possible cooling my overclocked 4790k on the other intake fan man. EIther that or I stick just a 120mm AIO on the exhaust section on the rear of my case but I just have a hard time believing a 120mm radiator is gonna be able to handle the amount of 250watts of TDP these 980 Ti's put out vs the 165watt 980 i'm used to having.

Any thoughts or factual incite into this? And no, I'm not buying a different case, so don't suggest that.


----------



## Sakke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> After Doing some googking, it doesn't look like you will need a shim. You should be fine with just the g10 and h55.


Allright! Thanks. Should get it up and running soon then







.


----------



## Someone09

lol...I just reached 68°C while gaming GTAV.
Yeah, there´s definately something wrong.


----------



## slickric21

Yeah that does seem quite a abit off.

Wonder if your Pump is working ok? Are you connected to a fan header on your mobo?
I have my pump connected straight to PSU with 12v Molex to fan adapter to ensure its running max all the time.

That aside when you do your next remount make sure you clean off all the old TIM and use the Geild GC 3 Extreme you have. I personally used the 'pea method' in the centre of the GPU chip and then again on top of the shim (note my 'Pea' is tiny- more like the size of a grain of rice - but spherical. A blob the actual size if a pea would be way to much imo)

Tighten the bracket finger tight, as far as you can, then nip it up with a screw driver 1/4 - 1/2 a turn (whatever needed for a tight fit)
Make sure you tighten bracket in the correct sequence 1-3-4-2.

If you are using your AIO as an exhaust, make sure you have a good supply of air into the case, specifically into the AIOs fan and radiator area if possible.
To rule out bad airflow or to assess it, have a look at your temps with the side of your case off maybe?
I did this and it saved me 3-4'c so it prompted me to improve my case airflow.

I have steadily improved my temps over the couple of weeks ive had this setup from 62'c at load down to 55'c with a remount and Geild GC 3 (vs MX4), then down to 52'c load now with better airflow in my case.

Using the 25x25x1.6mm shim i posted on the previous page and a H75 push/pull as exhaust. Fan is set to max at 60% which is about 1200rpm. I found it noisy above these values.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> Wonder if your Pump is working ok? Are you connected to a fan header on your mobo?
> I have my pump connected straight to PSU with 12v Molex to fan adapter to ensure its running max all the time.


The pump and all G10 fans are controlled via an Aquaero which sets them to 100% as soon as the GPU reaches 56°C.
And they all run at the max speed as given in the spec sheets.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> That aside when you do your next remount make sure you clean off all the old TIM and use the Geild GC 3 Extreme you have.


I always use thermal compound remover before reapplying.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> I personally used the 'pea method' in the centre of the GPU chip and then again on top of the shim (note my 'Pea' is tiny- more like the size of a grain of rice - but spherical. A blob the actual size if a pea would be way to much imo)


Yeah, did exactly the same.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> Tighten the bracket finger tight, as far as you can, then nip it up with a screw driver 1/4 - 1/2 a turn (whatever needed for a tight fit)
> Make sure you tighten bracket in the correct sequence 1-3-4-2.


Well, I can´t really reach the upper right screw with my fingers so this one is always a guessing game but as for the other 3 screws I did handtighten them and then used a screwdriver afterwards.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> If you are using your AIO as an exhaust, make sure you have a good supply of air into the case, specifically into the AIOs fan and radiator area if possible.
> To rule out bad airflow or to assess it, have a look at your temps with the side of your case off maybe?


I have a Air 540. Doubt it gets any better than this airflow wise.








But yeah, I guess I´ll check it with the side panel off the next time.


----------



## slickric21

Ok cool. (Apoligies im on my phone so didnt see your system/rig details) Looks like its a good setup then so it can only really be a bad mount then cant it ?

Id take the card out of the case so you can get to all your screws and remount it with your Geild GC 3 aswell whilst your at it.

Good luck, hopefully your'll join the low 50's crew soon !!!!


----------



## Someone09

Little update: Leaving the sidepanel open made basically no difference.


----------



## rhadoo04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> If you are using your AIO as an exhaust, make sure you have a good supply of air into the case, specifically into the AIOs fan and radiator area if possible.
> To rule out bad airflow or to assess it, have a look at your temps with the side of your case off maybe?
> I did this and it saved me 3-4'c so it prompted me to improve my case airflow.
> 
> I have steadily improved my temps over the couple of weeks ive had this setup from 62'c at load down to 55'c with a remount and Geild GC 3 (vs MX4), then down to 52'c load now with better airflow in my case.


How did you improve airflow when you found out that removing side panel would lower temps? My temps drop 5c on gpu with side panel off.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhadoo04*
> 
> How did you improve airflow when you found out that removing side panel would lower temps? My temps drop 5c on gpu with side panel off.


most likely a combo of adding fans and rerouting cables to minimize resistance.


----------



## slickric21

I added a 140mm fan inside the case to blow across the top of my GPU towards the rear exhaust where my H75 radiator is fixed.

I already have x2 120mm fans at the front bottom and centre of my case, but they were not directing enough cool air to my H75 cooling my GPU at the rear.
I have a H90 (exhaust 140mm) top mounted in my case cooling the CPU, that was sucking up all the cool air from my front intake fans.

Basically the new 140mm fan is pulling the cool air from the front fans and sending it to the H75 at the rear.
Works a treat.
Its just suspended by cable ties to sit where I want it.

Would take a pic but im at work tonight


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Little update: Leaving the sidepanel open made basically no difference.


When you look at your card, can you tell if there's a gap between the shim and your AIO's heat plate? Your symptoms are pretty much identical to mine when my shim was too thin, and from everything you're saying, it really sounds like your AIO is contacting your card's mid-plate and not getting clean heat transfer from the chip.

For testing's sake, it may be worth doing a dry run of sorts, where you just put the AIO obmn too if the shim without the actual bracket installed just to make sure the shim is providing you sufficient clearance.


----------



## majnu

Out of curiosity what bits do I need to control the 3 pin noctua 92mm fan on the G10 paired with the MSI 980ti 6G so I can use MSI AB fan profile to alter it's speed?

Edit nvm I don't think I can because my fan is 3 pin and the card has a 4pin pwm header, I should have bought the pwm version, oh well no big deal as the noctua redux is still relatively quiet.

Also I changed the side panel's 230mm 850rpm Betfinix Spectre pro to a 700rpm Coolermaster megaflow 200mm. As the fans were connected to the mb's fan header and running at full wack I found the Betfinix a bit too wooshy sounding although it does supply a hell of a lot of air compared to the CM. The CM is silent and a great fan and well worth £6. It's odd that I am changing fans now just because the AIO makes gaming so quiet that noises I didn't notice before on air are now very apparent.

I'm done now with upgrading things but if I ever in the future buy a new case I will make sure it has room to fit the x61


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Out of curiosity what bits do I need to control the 3 pin noctua 92mm fan on the G10 paired with the MSI 980ti 6G so I can use MSI AB fan profile to alter it's speed?
> 
> Edit nvm I don't think I can because my fan is 3 pin and the card has a 4pin pwm header, I should have bought the pwm version, oh well no big deal as the noctua redux is still relatively quiet


Yeah, you need a pwm fan and a VGA-PWM adapter that you can get for like 5 bucks at Newegg. But you're right that the 92mm fan is nearly silent -- especially if you've got an enclosed case.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> When you look at your card, can you tell if there's a gap between the shim and your AIO's heat plate?


Since I had high temperatures with the old shim too I took an extra look to make sure it makes contact. Or at least I thought so.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Installed a Kraken G10 and Kraken X41 on an MSI GTX 780. Load temps went from 76 to 45 so I'm very pleased. Nothing extraordinary with the installation or setupping. The radiator is mounted in the rear as an exhaust and I used the stock Fractal Design case fan as Pull and the included NZXT fan as Push. TIM used was MX-4.


----------



## Someone09

Small update since the shim is still under way: Tried to tighten the screws a little more, changed basically nothing.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Small update since the shim is still under way: Tried to tighten the screws a little more, changed basically nothing.


If the new shim doesn't fix things, then it leaves no other option but a bad pump on your AIO.

Did you remove the rubber washers from the G10's thumbscrews? I found that those got in the way and gave me a false sense of security re: how tightly they were actually secured.


----------



## Someone09

Actually, I don´t think I did.

Will put this on my list for the next remounting though.


----------



## stillWanted

Hey guys, again









I'm about to buy second-hand G10 + H55 for 50€ (guess it's a pretty good deal since brand new would cost me 90€) , here are the pics  

It seems they're in good condition with complete packagings (except the H55's fan isn't the stock one but yeah, doesn't bother me at all), just wanted to have an expert view









Do you think I should go for it ?


----------



## Sorphius

Provided everything's in working order, there's no reason not to.


----------



## stillWanted

I'm officially a Kraken G10 owner !







(don't know how long I'll keep it since the HG10 N970 will probably come soon but yeah, I'm glad to be part of the club)

I'll give a feedback on how it works with my PNY 970 as soon as I receive it


----------



## JakXLT

I'm about to take a similar risk... Would someone mind taking a look at the kraken x41 on sale for $78 on amazon and see if that used watercooler seems shady or not? Corsair h90 is similarly priced new... I could also get just a basic 120mm, would there be a significant performance difference between these 3? Sorry if this question has been answered before. I'm on my phone and searching is a pain like this.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stillWanted*
> 
> I'm officially a Kraken G10 owner !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (don't know how long I'll keep it since the HG10 N970 will probably come soon but yeah, I'm glad to be part of the club)
> 
> I'll give a feedback on how it works with my PNY 970 as soon as I receive it


Grats. 

Still contemplating a kit for my GPU. Kind of worried about lifespan of H55/H75 and/or it bursting from stories.


----------



## rwarr

i have a h50 lying around i want to use. what do i need to do to mod it so it can fit?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwarr*
> 
> i have a h50 lying around i want to use. what do i need to do to mod it so it can fit?


Is it the newer style like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181010, or the older style with the larger pump/block?

The newer ones work with no modification.


----------



## rwarr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Is it the newer style like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181010, or the older style with the larger pump/block?
> 
> The newer ones work with no modification.


i have the older style. first gen.


----------



## JakXLT

I'll be joining the club next week! Just ordered a G10, corsair h55, pwm adapter and a clear pwm fan that i will
be modding with leds later.

EDIT: Cancelled my order. Decided against going water cooling.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

so heres my modded g10 bracket for my gtx 970 Mini in the Ncase M1






very easy mod with a dremel for those with left sided vrms. if i wanted i think i could mount 2x 40mm fans over the VRMs but i dont have any or need them!


----------



## zorvalth

Offtopic: Why are you pushing the hot air fromthe rads inside the case, isnt it better to be pulled or pushed outside?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Offtopic: Why are you pushing the hot air fromthe rads inside the case, isnt it better to be pulled or pushed outside?


He needs to keep his PSU warm during the dark, cold, still of the night.

In all seriousness though, I'm not familiar enough with the NCASE M1 to know exactly what that warm air is blowing onto, but for what it's worth he *does* have fresh air blowing onto the card itself... I wonder if the dimensions of the case may keep him from installing the radiators in a way that lets him push air out of the case with them, since just having a single "pull" fan is much less efficient than having a single "push".


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> He needs to keep his PSU warm during the dark, cold, still of the night.
> 
> In all seriousness though, I'm not familiar enough with the NCASE M1 to know exactly what that warm air is blowing onto, but for what it's worth he *does* have fresh air blowing onto the card itself... I wonder if the dimensions of the case may keep him from installing the radiators in a way that lets him push air out of the case with them, since just having a single "pull" fan is much less efficient than having a single "push".


Single push is a little better from a single pull, but i think that single pull exaust is way better then single push intake in that small case...


----------



## trombman

Hey kraken club,
I currently installed the kraken g10 and corsair h75 push pull with exhaust on gtx 980 ti classified in a corsair 500r. I am also using a cooper shim 25 x 25 x and 1.6mm thick. My current temps are with 60% fan speed are 60 to 62 degrees Celsius when running unigine heaven for 30 minutes. At 100% fan speed my temps range from 55-57 Celsius. This varies since my ambient temps range from 26 to 27 degrees Celsius. I will say this is much of a improvement over my stock air cooler and the 20 x 20 x 1.2 mm cooper shim by approximately 10 to 15 degrees celsius. A big shout out to John from ebay who is selling these cooper shims.
However, are these temps high? My classified ups the voltage to 1.2 volts when it runs cool and runs at a blistering 1417.5 MHz out of the box untouched. I know some people here are not using a cooper shim on their gtx 980 ti. Does the cooper shim increase temps?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Single push is a little better from a single pull, but i think that single pull exaust is way better then single push intake in that small case...


Probably, but it's his doorstopGPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trombman*
> 
> Hey kraken club,
> I currently installed the kraken g10 and corsair h75 push pull with exhaust on gtx 980 ti classified in a corsair 500r. I am also using a cooper shim 25 x 25 x and 1.6mm thick. My current temps are with 60% fan speed are 60 to 62 degrees Celsius when running unigine heaven for 30 minutes. At 100% fan speed my temps range from 55-57 Celsius. This varies since my ambient temps range from 26 to 27 degrees Celsius. I will say this is much of a improvement over my stock air cooler and the 20 x 20 x 1.2 mm cooper shim by approximately 10 to 15 degrees celsius. A big shout out to John from ebay who is selling these cooper shims.
> However, are these temps high? My classified ups the voltage to 1.2 volts when it runs cool and runs at a blistering 1417.5 MHz out of the box untouched. I know some people here are not using a cooper shim on their gtx 980 ti. Does the cooper shim increase temps?


Using a shim is always going to be less efficient than not using one, since you're adding a piece of copper and an extra layer of thermal compound for the heat to travel through. If you're going to mount an AIO on a classy without voiding the warranty, though, you have to either use a shim in order to get clearance over the midplate, or remove the midplate entirely and use thermal pads and heatsinks to cool your VRMs. It's kind of a lesser of two evils situation.

That being said, while your temps are a little bit higher than I would probably otherwise expect and you may be able to shave off a little bit by remounting and checking to make sure your pump is running at 100%, you're under the first throttle point (65C) even with the more conservative fan profile, so it's not worth fretting over IMO unless you just want piece of mind. Remember -- with the stock cooler these cards are run safely well into the 70s or even low 80s, so high 50s-low 60s is perfectly fine.


----------



## trombman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Probably, but it's his doorstopGPU.
> Using a shim is always going to be less efficient than not using one, since you're adding a piece of copper and an extra layer of thermal compound for the heat to travel through. If you're going to mount an AIO on a classy without voiding the warranty, though, you have to either use a shim in order to get clearance over the midplate, or remove the midplate entirely and use thermal pads and heatsinks to cool your VRMs. It's kind of a lesser of two evils situation.
> 
> That being said, while your temps are a little bit higher than I would probably otherwise expect and you may be able to shave off a little bit by remounting and checking to make sure your pump is running at 100%, you're under the first throttle point (65C) even with the more conservative fan profile, so it's not worth fretting over IMO unless you just want piece of mind. Remember -- with the stock cooler these cards are run safely well into the 70s or even low 80s, so high 50s-low 60s is perfectly fine.


Sorphius, what are your ambient temps if you don't mind?
Are you using a shim or not?
What is AIO (watercooling) and fans are you using?
Just trying to narrow down the variables between the two.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trombman*
> 
> Sorphius, what are your ambient temps if you don't mind?
> Are you using a shim or not?
> What is AIO (watercooling) and fans are you using?
> Just trying to narrow down the variables between the two.


We keep the house in the mid 70s (~23-24C), so my ambient is a little cooler than yours but not extremely so. I'm using exactly the same shim you are (I made it







) on an EVGA 980ti ACX+ SC+ with GELID GC-Extreme thermal compound, a Corsair H90 cooler and a single Noctua NF-a14 iPPC-2000 fan mounted as rear exhaust. My fan profile is set to run the fan on a curve from 40% at 40C up to a max of 60% at 50C (because noise), my pump is plugged directly into my power supply to make sure it runs at 100%, and my temps tend to hover in the high 40s-low-50s depending on what I'm doing.

So the TLDR is that I have a slightly lower ambient temp and use the same shim but have a larger radiator, use one of the best thermal compounds on the market, and run my (albeit single) fan at a higher RPM.


----------



## trombman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> We keep the house in the mid 70s (~23-24C), so my ambient is a little cooler than yours but not extremely so. I'm using exactly the same shim you are (I made it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) on an EVGA 980ti ACX+ SC+ with GELID GC-Extreme thermal compound, a Corsair H90 cooler and a single Noctua NF-a14 iPPC-2000 fan mounted as rear exhaust. My fan profile is set to run the fan on a curve from 40% at 40C up to a max of 60% at 50C (because noise), my pump is plugged directly into my power supply to make sure it runs at 100%, and my temps tend to hover in the high 40s-low-50s depending on what I'm doing.
> 
> So the TLDR is that I have a slightly lower ambient temp and use the same shim but have a larger radiator, use one of the best thermal compounds on the market, and run my (albeit single) fan at a higher RPM.


Great. BTW, you created my shim? That's awesome








As far as thermal paste goes, I'm using antec formula 7 nano diamond compound. I ordered some gelid extreme yesterday. funny thing is, I usually buy gelid extreme, but went to best buy the other day to try out the antec. My cpu is currently using gelid extreme)
As far as application is concerned, did you use the pea or line method? I used the line.
Also, did you trim the foam of the mounting bracket? Left it on.
Take off the rubber gaskets under the mounting screws? Left it on.
I'm using push pull on my h75, but since it is 120mm, I'm sure you have better temps using the 140mm plus lower ambient temp. Regardless, I think I can go lower.
Regards


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trombman*
> 
> Great. BTW, you created my shim? That's awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as thermal paste goes, I'm using antec formula 7 nano diamond compound. I ordered some gelid extreme yesterday. funny thing is, I usually buy gelid extreme, but went to best buy the other day to try out the antec. My cpu is currently using gelid extreme)
> As far as application is concerned, did you use the pea or line method? I used the line.
> Also, did you trim the foam of the mounting bracket? Left it on.
> Take off the rubber gaskets under the mounting screws? Left it on.
> I'm using push pull on my h75, but since it is 120mm, I'm sure you have better temps using the 140mm plus lower ambient temp. Regardless, I think I can go lower.
> Regards


On my phone with the baby in my lap so I'll be short. I used the pea method on both sides of the shim (one drop in the gpu, put the shim on, drop in the shim, put on the cooler). I removed the foam pad from the g10 plate, removed the rubber washers from the thumbscrews, and didn't use the foam standoffs (I felt like they caused a lopsided mount).


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> He needs to keep his PSU warm during the dark, cold, still of the night.
> 
> In all seriousness though, I'm not familiar enough with the NCASE M1 to know exactly what that warm air is blowing onto, but for what it's worth he *does* have fresh air blowing onto the card itself... I wonder if the dimensions of the case may keep him from installing the radiators in a way that lets him push air out of the case with them, since just having a single "pull" fan is much less efficient than having a single "push".


ive tested both intake and exhaust and intake seems to perform better. the 970 doesnt put out heaps of hot air anyway (doesnt run above 50C). if i have it exhaust all the gpu rad gets is hot intake from the cpu rad which is right next door to it.

but yes i do have the gpu rad blowing air into the psu - not ideal technically - but actually eliminates the issue of the SX500-L and the noises the fan can make at its low rpm with semi-passive mode, as the heat warms the psu components up enough that the psu fan is constantly spun up, which results in it being quieter than at the borderline of semi-passive. this also helps exhaust my gpu rad air out the top of the case.


----------



## rwarr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwarr*
> 
> i have the older style. first gen.


requoting my self but i manage to fit my old gen h50 and it works wonders. 52 full load. it's currently on a msi 780 lighting. althought i didn't remove the back plate nor the plate under the big heatsink. should i remove the plates or just leave them?


----------



## cf4way

Mounted G10 on my 980 ti classy today. I decided to go with PS3 shim, as it is a bit bigger in size (42x42mm) and covers whole chip nicely. I also trimmed off foam from G10. Backplate on classy of course stayed on.

I used grizzly thermal paste. I had plans to use metal pad between cooler and shim, but changed my mind at the end and simply used grizzly on both sides of the shim.

Cooler is H75. Replaced fans with industrial Noctua 120mm PWM fans that can spin up to 3000 rpm in push-pull combination. I like the possibility of fans to be strong at some point









After assembling everything together and seeing that monitor has a picture I was getting ready to adjust screws to reach perfect temperature, but guess what - looks like I screwed them just perfectly. Load temp with fan at max didn't go over 40 C. And when I switched from load to idle, there was perhaps only 2-3 temperature drop. I also put a temp. probe on rad which showed 2-3 C less than GPU temp.

Inside the case, temps are higher of course. I have small midi case and everything is stacked together. Idle temp 37 C. Load I can maintain from 40 up, depending of fan curve.

I would say this. If you have big case, go with 240 or 280 rad for 980 ti. Heat transformation from chip to rad is great. Load temps of ~40 are easily possible with bigger rads+quiet fans.

I was forced to go with small rad due to lack of space; already have one 240 rad for CPU.

To anyone who doesnt get load temps below 50 on 980 ti - you did something wrong with G10 mounting. Make sure to screw screws evenly, and not too tight. Too much preasure is not good either. You may try following: load up a stress test and make gpu reach stable high temperature. Then uncrew one screw just for half a turn and check the temp. If it goes higher, screw back in, if it goes lower, uncrew more, if it stays move to another screw. You can optimize your temps by 10-15 C that way. But be careful not to touch some components with your screwdriver


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cf4way*
> 
> To anyone who doesnt get load temps below 50 on 980 ti - you did something wrong with G10 mounting. Make sure to screw screws evenly, and not too tight. Too much preasure is not good either. You may try following: load up a stress test and make gpu reach stable high temperature. Then uncrew one screw just for half a turn and check the temp. If it goes higher, screw back in, if it goes lower, uncrew more, if it stays move to another screw. You can optimize your temps by 10-15 C that way. But be careful not to touch some components with your screwdriver


Cool methodical advice, but needs bawlz!


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cf4way*
> 
> Mounted G10 on my 980 ti classy today. I decided to go with PS3 shim, as it is a bit bigger in size (42x42mm) and covers whole chip nicely. I also trimmed off foam from G10. Backplate on classy of course stayed on.
> 
> I used grizzly thermal paste. I had plans to use metal pad between cooler and shim, but changed my mind at the end and simply used grizzly on both sides of the shim.
> 
> Cooler is H75. Replaced fans with industrial Noctua 120mm PWM fans that can spin up to 3000 rpm in push-pull combination. I like the possibility of fans to be strong at some point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After assembling everything together and seeing that monitor has a picture I was getting ready to adjust screws to reach perfect temperature, but guess what - looks like I screwed them just perfectly. Load temp with fan at max didn't go over 40 C. And when I switched from load to idle, there was perhaps only 2-3 temperature drop. I also put a temp. probe on rad which showed 2-3 C less than GPU temp.
> 
> Inside the case, temps are higher of course. I have small midi case and everything is stacked together. Idle temp 37 C. Load I can maintain from 40 up, depending of fan curve.
> 
> I would say this. If you have big case, go with 240 or 280 rad for 980 ti. Heat transformation from chip to rad is great. Load temps of ~40 are easily possible with bigger rads+quiet fans.
> 
> I was forced to go with small rad due to lack of space; already have one 240 rad for CPU.
> 
> To anyone who doesnt get load temps below 50 on 980 ti - you did something wrong with G10 mounting. Make sure to screw screws evenly, and not too tight. Too much preasure is not good either. You may try following: load up a stress test and make gpu reach stable high temperature. Then uncrew one screw just for half a turn and check the temp. If it goes higher, screw back in, if it goes lower, uncrew more, if it stays move to another screw. You can optimize your temps by 10-15 C that way. But be careful not to touch some components with your screwdriver


i have found it to be far more dependant on fans than mounting (assuming you get mounting correct) - and you are using the most powerful commercial fans available basically - and push pull). if i use a Noiseblocker B12-2 (1200rpm max) on my 970 i get temps closer to 65C during load at max fan speed, however with my current Noctua iPPC 2000rpm pwm fan (single) set at 970rpm i get max temps of 49C.

if i wanted a windtunnel/max performance, id wind it all the way up to 2000rpm and probably drop 10C, but the noise is insane. i might tyr it out later just to see what variation i can get between min fan speed and max on my single fan.


----------



## cf4way

Yes, fans play very big role once you have a good mount. And good mount can be detected if your rad is almost as hot as your GPU. Then it is all up to the fans to do the job. That is why I suggested bigger rad. For bigger rad you need slower fans to achieve the same cooling effect.

Another thing to say; good mount can be detected if when you load up gpu, temperature doesnt shoot up for 15+ C, but only for few and then slowly rising. If it is slowly rising for more than 5 minutes and it doesn't look like it is stopping, then you don't have enough fan power to cool it down.


----------



## Someone09

Hm...by that logic my mounting is good but my fans ain´t doing the job...


----------



## cf4way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Hm...by that logic my mounting is good but my fans ain´t doing the job...


Test by putting on some good loud fans. If temps are considerably lower, then you know the issue


----------



## Someone09

The bigger shim arrived yesterday and I am planning on switching them out tomorrow. If the temps are still too high, I´ll try other fans.
But honestly, if it´s really the fans than I relly won´t bother sticking witht the G10 since it will be about as loud as the original cooler was.


----------



## stillWanted

Omg guys, I knew the Kraken G10 was quite a thing, but I never suspected it would drop the temps of my 970 from 75-80 degrees to 45 max using Heaven Benchmark









I will do a complete feedback tomorrow with pics, too tired to do this now (it's 11pm here in France)


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stillWanted*
> 
> Omg guys, I knew the Kraken G10 was quite a thing, but I never suspected it would drop the temps of my 970 from 75-80 degrees to 45 max using Heaven Benchmark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will do a complete feedback tomorrow with pics, too tired to do this now (it's 11pm here in France)


Yup temps depend on how hard the game or benchmark works the card out. Additionally how long the card has been running for as the liquid temps rise, if you have decent fans on the rad it also helps reduce the temps. Oh and ambient temps play a key factor, in Europe lately it's been pretty hot, it's 25c in my room at the moment.

Valley isn't very stressful. I'm playing Rage atm and my gpu stays at 33c. BF4 and Metro LL are the most demanding games I have and after an hours session the cards hit 53-55c which is pretty awesome considering I run my fans at 1000rpm which is pretty much silent.

Looking forward to your tests.


----------



## Stephen88

for me in Italy the ambient temperature is more than 32° C and my gtx 970 hit with Dying Light over 61° C with noctua NF-F12 in push-pull on Corsair H55 @1400rpm


----------



## Someone09

Sooooo...remounted the G10 today. Here´s what I changed compared to the two times before:

Used the newly arrived 25x25x1.6mm shim
Used GC Extreme instead of the Prolimatech thermal paste
Removed the rubber washers from the thumbscrews

Did a few test runs in Haven and 3D Mark. As of now the highest temperature I saw was 57°C - and only really shortly. So far so good considering how hot it is today and how much I OCed the GPU. But as I said, my temperatures tend to rise after a day or so.

Anyway, my hopes are up.








Also, when I removed the "old" shim it seemed like I really have used not enough thermal paste between the shim and the cooler although I am somewhat sure that I put enough in there.

On a related note almost got a heart attack again when my PC suddenly shut down during the first run of 3D Mark without a warning (from either the OS or my Aquaero).
My first thought was of course that I just got myself a really expensive paperweight with an NVidia logo on it. My second thought was that my PSU had given up on me. Which wouldn´t have been that bad compared to the alternative.
But as it turns out, for some reason my freaking power cord crapped out on me.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Finally decided to put a G10 on my EVGA GTX 970 FTW+ but have a question. I'm pretty sure I'll need a shim because it has the mid plate, but what thickness? I'm guessing 1.6mm but thought I'd ask. Going to use a H75 and MX4 paste..


----------



## stillWanted

Alright folks, i'm back with some pics, first here's how the PNY 970 looks like without the cooler : 

And here's how it looks like with the Kraken G10 : 

Had a problem at this point because I couldn't plug all the way the two PCIE cables, had to disassemble the Kraken G10, plug the PCIE cables onto the graphics card first and then mount the G10 after, thanks to my semi-modular PSU I could unplug the PCIE from the supply which made the whole process easier

Kraken G10's fan perfectly fits my PCI bracket, I was a bit worried since it was shown to work with 80/90mm fans and G10's fan is 92mm but after all it fits flawlessly : 

And here's how both look like installed : 

Looks quite odd since the 970 bends down and the G10's fan bends up, but I guess it's normal









And finally here's how my whole setup looks like 

Had to reposition the HDD tray from the rear to the middle of my case cause the H55 radiator wouldn't fit, don't know if you can see it from here but there's a 140mm fan right below, tried to screw it outside the dual fan caddy but it didn't fit so I let it in : 

Alright, I guess I told you everything, concerning temps I let Unigine Heaven run while I was sleeping, max temp was 56°C and my room was 28°C, also played GTA V for 2 hours and max temp was 52°C

I don't have an IR thermometer so I can't measure VRM temps, but I think they're cool enough since the G10's fan blows right on them at 100% plus there's an heatsink

Didn't manage to measure noise level but it's definitely waaaaay quieter than the PNY 970 stock cooling, the Coolink SWiF2-120P spins at 1200RPM while gaming and I can hardly hear it over my 212 Evo's fan









When idling it's not that much silent, I guess I could change the pump's fan curve and lower it at some point but I prefer to leave it 100% all the time


----------



## betabotxx

Hey everyone, just wondering if I could get so help/advice. I recently got another GTX 780 to add to my first one for a SLI setup, and now am thinking of grabbing a Kraken G10 for each of them. The ASUS sits at about 79 under load and the MSI can go up to 87 under load, both are overclocked and have custom bios.

I have an ASUS DirectCU II and a MSI Twin Frozr and am unsure what would be required for the mounting process. Would I need a cooper shim or wouldn't I? What AIO would be good? I have one of the original NZXT Phantom cases and not sure where/if I could mount two AIOs even (depending on size).

Any help would be awesome. Thanks.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stillWanted*
> 
> Alright folks, i'm back with some pics, first here's how the PNY 970 looks like without the cooler :
> 
> And here's how it looks like with the Kraken G10 :
> 
> Had a problem at this point because I couldn't plug all the way the two PCIE cables, had to disassemble the Kraken G10, plug the PCIE cables onto the graphics card first and then mount the G10 after, thanks to my semi-modular PSU I could unplug the PCIE from the supply which made the whole process easier
> 
> Kraken G10's fan perfectly fits my PCI bracket, I was a bit worried since it was shown to work with 80/90mm fans and G10's fan is 92mm but after all it fits flawlessly :
> 
> And here's how both look like installed :
> Looks quite odd since the 970 bends down and the G10's fan bends up, but I guess it's normal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally here's how my whole setup looks like
> 
> Had to reposition the HDD tray from the rear to the middle of my case cause the H55 radiator wouldn't fit, don't know if you can see it from here but there's a 140mm fan right below, tried to screw it outside the dual fan caddy but it didn't fit so I let it in :
> 
> Nice job on mounting considering how short your pcb is.
> 
> That is a nice healthy heatsink for the vrm on that, I would think with the 92mm fan your temps should be very good.
> Alright, I guess I told you everything, concerning temps I let Unigine Heaven run while I was sleeping, max temp was 56°C and my room was 28°C, also played GTA V for 2 hours and max temp was 52°C
> 
> I don't have an IR thermometer so I can't measure VRM temps, but I think they're cool enough since the G10's fan blows right on them at 100% plus there's an heatsink
> 
> Didn't manage to measure noise level but it's definitely waaaaay quieter than the PNY 970 stock cooling, the Coolink SWiF2-120P spins at 1200RPM while gaming and I can hardly hear it over my 212 Evo's fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When idling it's not that much silent, I guess I could change the pump's fan curve and lower it at some point but I prefer to leave it 100% all the time


Nice job on the mount, seen quite a few 970's with the short pcb like that.

You have a nice healthy heatsink for the vrm on that card, with the 92mm fan your temps should be very good.


----------



## serave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *betabotxx*
> 
> Hey everyone, just wondering if I could get so help/advice. I recently got another GTX 780 to add to my first one for a SLI setup, and now am thinking of grabbing a Kraken G10 for each of them. The ASUS sits at about 79 under load and the MSI can go up to 87 under load, both are overclocked and have custom bios.
> 
> I have an ASUS DirectCU II and a MSI Twin Frozr and am unsure what would be required for the mounting process. Would I need a cooper shim or wouldn't I? What AIO would be good? I have one of the original NZXT Phantom cases and not sure where/if I could mount two AIOs even (depending on size).
> 
> Any help would be awesome. Thanks.


check your cards model at http://configurator.ekwb.com/ to see if it uses the reference PCB or not

if it is a reference PCB, it'll prolly work without the need of a shim

for AIO i personally use Corsair H75, dropped down my GPU (R9 280X) temp from upper 80-94C at load down to the 38-39C level under the same load

didnt test them in FurMark that long since my VRM temps went up from 29C to 110C in less than 5 minutes of furmark test


----------



## markob53

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to remount my G10 + H55 combo on my MSI 780Ti because i think the temps i have been getting haven't been great, roughly it may go to a max of 65c after a long gaming session, which although is better than air cooling i think it should be lower for the H55.

Before i remount it though i plan on running Heaven to get a temp reading before then do the same after, how long should i run the benchmark for? 30 mins sound good? Also under what circumstances do i need a shim? and i noticed someone had trimmed the foam from the backplate of their G10, is this required? It's always worried me how squashed up against the chips on the back of the GPU it is.

Cheers.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I'm planning to remount my G10 + H55 combo on my MSI 780Ti because i think the temps i have been getting haven't been great, roughly it may go to a max of 65c after a long gaming session, which although is better than air cooling i think it should be lower for the H55.
> 
> Before i remount it though i plan on running Heaven to get a temp reading before then do the same after, how long should i run the benchmark for? 30 mins sound good? Also under what circumstances do i need a shim? and i noticed someone had trimmed the foam from the backplate of their G10, is this required? It's always worried me how squashed up against the chips on the back of the GPU it is.
> 
> Cheers.


My Gigabyte 780 Ti hits a max of 51c @ 1305MHz 1.212v with my H75 in push/pull, my ambient temp is only 18-19c. So I bet a remount would help with your card.


----------



## betabotxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serave*
> 
> check your cards model at http://configurator.ekwb.com/ to see if it uses the reference PCB or not
> 
> if it is a reference PCB, it'll prolly work without the need of a shim
> 
> for AIO i personally use Corsair H75, dropped down my GPU (R9 280X) temp from upper 80-94C at load down to the 38-39C level under the same load
> 
> didnt test them in FurMark that long since my VRM temps went up from 29C to 110C in less than 5 minutes of furmark test


Cheers thanks for the link, found out the MSI is the reference layout, so at some point I will go ahead and buy a set for it. Though the ASUS isn't and has its own backplate, so still unsure what I'm going to do there.

I'm thinking of the H55 as I'm on a limited budget, unless someone can recommend something better for around he same cost. Even if I got the temps down to the 50-60 range that would be awesome, as The other main reason I was doing this was to get the sound of the fans down.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serave*
> 
> didnt test them in FurMark that long since my VRM temps went up from 29C to 110C in less than 5 minutes of furmark test


this is unusual. are there heatsinks on your VRMs?


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> My Gigabyte 780 Ti hits a max of 51c @ 1305MHz 1.212v with my H75 in push/pull, my ambient temp is only 18-19c. So I bet a remount would help with your card.


I remounted and got an absolute max of 57c after 30 mins, but the average maximum was 55-56c.Obviously not as good as your OC temps but i have a feeling my case doesn't help, being in a NZXT H440 which is a little starved for airflow, my room is quite starved for airflow too







but i'd say i'm happy with those temps.

I did try my H55 rad in push/pull but honestly temps were worse, very surprised tbh as when i used to have the H55 mounted in the front as an intake (bad idea) push/pull did help but having it just in push at the rear of my case seems to produce better results.

Obviously a remount helped in that my temps dropped from 64c to 57c so i can't complain about that, unless you think i should be striving for better temps, although i can't see what else i could possibly do to get better results, i could argue my fans are even running a tad too loud for my liking.


----------



## Tim Drake

Could someone put me together the cheapest parts list possible for my 980 G1 Gaming to be water cooled from the UK (excluding heatsinks as I already have them) I don't mind used / eBay links.

I have no clue where to look for the bargains, thanks guys!


----------



## serave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> this is unusual. are there heatsinks on your VRMs?


turns out that fan blowing to the VRMs doesn't spin at all lel


----------



## Someone09

Second day after my remount and I have yet to see 59°C on the GPU. I think this time really worked.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serave*
> 
> turns out that fan blowing to the VRMs doesn't spin at all lel


That would probably help.


----------



## masteratarms

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121803

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=R9+280X+R9280X-DC2T-3GD5+pcb&biw=1200&bih=959&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAmoVChMI3vuqj_ecxwIVh9MUCh07ygRQ#imgrc=UORoVrLVk9oYvM%3A

Will the Kraken G10 fit on this? I already have a 1mm shim but not sure about the intrusive looking mid plate.


----------



## majnu

More temperature tests in BF3.


----------



## Siamak8286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> More temperature tests in BF3.


Hi there, I wanna ask you if it's 100% safe to use the G10 on MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G, some say it is since the MSI already have VRMs and VRAM heatsink but also I've been reading horror stories of the NZXT poor VRM and VRAM cooling and I really really don't wanna blow my $700 brand new 980 Ti.
Also I had the EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid which after 2nd replacement I returned due to pump noise, how is overall noise lvl of the card with Kraken G10? both pump and the 90mm fan for VRMs


----------



## Fidget-STC

I've been trying for the last week, but I can't seem to buy the Pulse Modding Corsair bracket from ChilldePC. http://chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1928

It appears they don't sell to the USA. I've contacted them both using their web form and e-mailing them directly, but they aren't responding. Does anyone know of another way to get that bracket from the States?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Hi there, I wanna ask you if it's 100% safe to use the G10 on MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G, some say it is since the MSI already have VRMs and VRAM heatsink but also I've been reading horror stories of the NZXT poor VRM and VRAM cooling and I really really don't wanna blow my $700 brand new 980 Ti.
> Also I had the EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid which after 2nd replacement I returned due to pump noise, how is overall noise lvl of the card with Kraken G10? both pump and the 90mm fan for VRMs


The Gaming 6G is actually ideal for the g10 because it has a VRM-cooling mid plate that doesn't require a shim to mount the g10 over. You can purchase some cheap vga heat sinks to give some extra heat dissipation if you like, but it really isn't necessary.

As far as noise goes, the 92mm fan is nearly silent at 100%, and frankly will easily be drowned out under load by your radiator fan(s). I use a vga to pwm adapter to control mine with a custom fan curve, so it is off when idle and doesn't even come on until the card is placed under load. In terms of pump noise, it really comes down to the AIO that you choose to use.


----------



## Siamak8286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> The Gaming 6G is actually ideal for the g10 because it has a VRM-cooling mid plate that doesn't require a shim to mount the g10 over. You can purchase some cheap vga heat sinks to give some extra heat dissipation if you like, but it really isn't necessary.
> 
> As far as noise goes, the 92mm fan is nearly silent at 100%, and frankly will easily be drowned out under load by your radiator fan(s). I use a vga to pwm adapter to control mine with a custom fan curve, so it is off when idle and doesn't even come on until the card is placed under load. In terms of pump noise, it really comes down to the AIO that you choose to use.


Ty so much for the comment, Honestly I will not be overclocking my card at any point and the only reason I wanna put a AIO cooler is to lower the noise and overall temperature cuz I'm paranoid, and In case I wanna skip buying extra heatsink I can be sure that my card won't all of a sudden go on fire after few months lol? so all I need is the G10 bracket and H55 or H75 and a PWM adapter and thats it?

Also do you mind giving me a link to where I can buy the PWM adapter in U.S?
and one last thing, I will have to plug the pump to the motherboard right? as well as radiator fans? so the PWM will connect to the 90mm VRAM fan?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Ty so much for the comment, Honestly I will not be overclocking my card at any point and the only reason I wanna put a AIO cooler is to lower the noise and overall temperature cuz I'm paranoid, and In case I wanna skip buying extra heatsink I can be sure that my card won't all of a sudden go on fire after few months lol? so all I need is the G10 bracket and H55 or H75 and a PWM adapter and thats it?
> 
> Also do you mind giving me a link to where I can buy the PWM adapter in U.S?
> and one last thing, I will have to plug the pump to the motherboard right? as well as radiator fans? so the PWM will connect to the 90mm VRAM fan?


http://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA That is where I got my gpu 4 pin to pwm adapter, Newegg has them too but they are more money. Either plug the pump into the motherboard and make sure you have it set at 100% in BIOS or directly to the PSU. The 90mm fan plugs into the adapter I linked.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Ty so much for the comment, Honestly I will not be overclocking my card at any point and the only reason I wanna put a AIO cooler is to lower the noise and overall temperature cuz I'm paranoid, and In case I wanna skip buying extra heatsink I can be sure that my card won't all of a sudden go on fire after few months lol? so all I need is the G10 bracket and H55 or H75 and a PWM adapter and thats it?
> 
> Also do you mind giving me a link to where I can buy the PWM adapter in U.S?
> and one last thing, I will have to plug the pump to the motherboard right? as well as radiator fans? so the PWM will connect to the 90mm VRAM fan?


The other guy linked the adapter. It will let you plug the g10 fan into the gpu and control it with Afterburner. I'd set it to off when idle and then ramp it up to ~85% when it hits ~40°. Plug the pump into the PSU if possible, or otherwise make sure it's running at 100% in the bios. Plug the radiator fan into the mobo and use a program like Speedfan to set a temp profile for it.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Hi there, I wanna ask you if it's 100% safe to use the G10 on MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G, some say it is since the MSI already have VRMs and VRAM heatsink but also I've been reading horror stories of the NZXT poor VRM and VRAM cooling and I really really don't wanna blow my $700 brand new 980 Ti.
> Also I had the EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid which after 2nd replacement I returned due to pump noise, how is overall noise lvl of the card with Kraken G10? both pump and the 90mm fan for VRMs


The MSI has mid plates for VRM and VRAM. (Yes they use a hell of a lot of tim also lol)










As for monitoring both VRM and VRAM unless you have some kind of temperature probe you cannot read the temperature value as I believe there is no sensor for it on the board. I don't know how effectively the G10 cools the VRAM modules as the fan is positioned directly over the VRMs to exhaust heat.

The standard 90mm fan on the G10 is great once the case is enclosed and is quiet. The only reason I swapped mine for a Noctua is because the rest of the system fans run at low rpm and I could hear a feint hum coming from the stock fan at night.

I cannot hear any noise from the pump on the H55 and it does a great job cooling the GPU as you can see in the video.


----------



## rhadoo04

@majnu
What case are you using and what are your ambient temps?


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> The MSI has mid plates for VRM and VRAM. (Yes they use a hell of a lot of tim also lol)
> 
> As for monitoring both VRM and VRAM unless you have some kind of temperature probe you cannot read the temperature value as I believe there is no sensor for it on the board. I don't know how effectively the G10 cools the VRAM modules as the fan is positioned directly over the VRMs to exhaust heat.
> 
> The standard 90mm fan on the G10 is great once the case is enclosed and is quiet. The only reason I swapped mine for a Noctua is because the rest of the system fans run at low rpm and I could hear a feint hum coming from the stock fan at night.
> 
> I cannot hear any noise from the pump on the H55 and it does a great job cooling the GPU as you can see in the video.


u can use an infrared thermometer to measure the VRMs. Just point it at the VRMs and it will pick up a reading.

The VRAMs don't get too hot so there's no need for a fan there. If you want peace of mind, u may place heatsinks on it. But I've tried it and there were no gains from putting on heatsinks there.


----------



## ragtag7

I checked the list for my GPU but no one seems to use mine with the Kraken. Does anyone here use it with the MSI Twin Frozr III HD7950 3GB? I really need to know if it works cause I'm tired of all the heat.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragtag7*
> 
> I checked the list for my GPU but no one seems to use mine with the Kraken. Does anyone here use it with the MSI Twin Frozr III HD7950 3GB? I really need to know if it works cause I'm tired of all the heat.


Is this the same as R9 280? If so, it fits. U just need to buy a shim. Ekwb or frozencpu sells it. Do ensure the vrm has heatsinks. My Sapphire card has them so it works well.


----------



## ragtag7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> Is this the same as R9 280? If so, it fits. U just need to buy a shim. Ekwb or frozencpu sells it. Do ensure the vrm has heatsinks. My Sapphire card has them so it works well.


I'm not sure if it's the same as the R9 280.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragtag7*
> 
> I'm not sure if it's the same as the R9 280.


Seems like it is
http://techreport.com/news/26106/radeon-hd-7950-gets-second-life-as-radeon-r9-280


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhadoo04*
> 
> @majnu
> What case are you using and what are your ambient temps?


Corsair 650D and ambient temps should be shown in the video.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragtag7*
> 
> I checked the list for my GPU but no one seems to use mine with the Kraken. Does anyone here use it with the MSI Twin Frozr III HD7950 3GB? I really need to know if it works cause I'm tired of all the heat.


It'll work you just need a shim, EK sells 28.5 x 28.5 x 0.5 mm ones which are perfect for it.


----------



## KickAssCop

I mounted the G10 on one of my classifieds and am waiting for second kit to arrive. Any ideas on where to mount the second radiator. Here are some shots.

Naked classified.










All done.










Busy computer internals.










Also waiting on a pwm adapter and ordered second kit as x31 instead of the h55 since it seems to have longer tubes.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> I mounted the G10 on one of my classifieds and am waiting for second kit to arrive. Any ideas on where to mount the second radiator. Here are some shots.


Looking good. Hard to tell what case that is, do you have room at the front intake. You definitely have space limitations.


----------



## Sorphius

Unless you dump your cpu cooler for a smaller one, I think your only options for a second 120mm mount are the side panel or front. If it were me, I'd look into getting something like the Swiftech x240 (name may be wrong) and make a pseudo-custom loop. AIO coolers are great, but once you get to the point where you are, it's just not very practical to add any more without either serious case mods or an upgraded case.


----------



## KickAssCop

Case is a HAF X. I think I am going to see if one rad can go in drive bays in the front since case is all grill so actually can hang one rad in the 3 bays that are empty. Second rad for second card can go at the back. Mounting on side panel is going to be a nuisance for opening/closing the case.

All my drive bays are full including 2 hot plugs that I am using for the SSDs. I got the case recently upgrading from a 650d which was too small for all the crap I have. Now seems I should have gone even bigger.


----------



## RubenURSUS

Hi all, excuse me for asking if this has been asked before but I'm reading and writing from my phone..

I am thinking about buying this bracket along with the NZXT X41 to properly cool my MSI R9 390 but am uncertain if this is even possible.
Does anyone have the same GPU to confirm about the compatibility with this bracket?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## DogeCoinOP

@RubenURSUS
As long as the msi 390 is a reference pcb then you are good


----------



## RubenURSUS

Alright, assuming I can check that at the MSI website, thanks for your reply!
Will post pictures and temps/results once it's done


----------



## beasty54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beasty54*
> 
> I've got 2 G10s mounted on my 980TI amp extremes but I'm only using corsair H55 AIO coolers. I expected my top card to get hotter than the bottom one but I was really hoping not to see the temperature reach about 68c when gaming in 4K.
> I'm using push pull on both GPU rads and I've got a huge corsair 900D case with a lot of intakes and exhaust fans so I really was hoping to see no more than 60c on the top card.
> For those with a lot more experience with water cooling, would you say the high temperatures are just down to the single rads on each GPU?


After doing the above I'm getting a nice 55 - 58c when gaming in 4K and at max settings, the only game that has pushed it further is crysis 3 in 4k, I saw temps of about 63c but I am in an extremely hot room at the moment and crysis 3 really does push the cards in certain scenarios.
I'm happy with the results after re-seating the G10s and the coolers, I'm pretty sure it was down to them not being tight enough but whatever the cause for the initial high temps, all is now good.


----------



## KickAssCop

With such a big case you should be seeing about 50-55 C tops. My single rad with push/pull is doing 50 C in gaming (only because I have corsair fans at 950-1000 RPM) and 55 C benching. If I push the fans to 1300-1400 RPM, the card idles at 26 C and load at 45 C.

This is in an SLi configuration with room ambient temperature of 25C. Are you sure you have more fans that exhaust air out of the case than push air into the case. You should have negative air pressure to improve your temperatures. For example, I have only 2 intake fans (one in front 200 mm and one on side panel 230 mm) with almost 6 exhaust fans (2 on the 280 mm rad, 2 200 mm up top; 2 120 mm on the 120 mm rad at the back). This way my CPU is also hovering around 50-55 C even with a max overclock of 4.6 Ghz.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RubenURSUS*
> 
> Hi all, excuse me for asking if this has been asked before but I'm reading and writing from my phone..
> 
> I am thinking about buying this bracket along with the NZXT X41 to properly cool my MSI R9 390 but am uncertain if this is even possible.
> Does anyone have the same GPU to confirm about the compatibility with this bracket?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


It should fit but the key thing is to ensure the VRMs have heatsinks on. Some GPUs have them, others don't. Some even have VRMs in different areas. You also need to check if you need a shim to mount the AIO properly. For eg, my 270x does not need a shim while the 280 needs. Ensure these things are done properly and you're good to go.

Too many folks fault the G10 for the GPU failure but most of the problems can be avoided with some simple steps and initial monitoring of the temps.


----------



## majnu

Arctic have now released a gpu aio

http://www.eteknix.com/arctic-release-accelero-hybrid-iii-140-aio-gpu-liquid-cooler/?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter


----------



## craftio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> I mounted the G10 on one of my classifieds and am waiting for second kit to arrive. Any ideas on where to mount the second radiator. Here are some shots.
> 
> Naked classified.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Busy computer internals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also waiting on a pwm adapter and ordered second kit as x31 instead of the h55 since it seems to have longer tubes.


Hi

Nice setup.

I am also considering using the NZXT Kraken G10 with an AIO cooler on my EVGA Classified 980ti

2 questions

1) What size shim did you use? 25 X 25 X1mm ?? or 25 x 25 x 1.6mm?? where did you get the shims?

2) I a, using a NZXT 410 case with a Corsair H100 topmounted for my CPU. Would a NZXT x31(for the longer and thinner tube length) or a Corsair H55 be better?

Cheers


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craftio*
> 
> 1) What size shim did you use? 25 X 25 X1mm ?? or 25 x 25 x 1.6mm?? where did you get the shims?
> 2) I a, using a NZXT 410 case with a Corsair H100 topmounted for my CPU. Would a NZXT x31(for the longer and thinner tube length) or a Corsair H55 be better?
> 
> Cheers


For the EVGA 980TIs with a midplate (any of the ACX models), you *MUST* have at least a 1.5mm shim. I first used a 1.2mm shim on mine and it wasn't thick enough. This is the exact shim I'm using now, and my temps max out between 48-55c depending on ambient (because no AC in the house). With the thinner shim I was reaching the mid-60s, which means that I was passing the first voltage throttle point.

As for which AIO to go with, either should work if you put it in the rear exhaust port. Just check to make sure you have sufficient clearance below/behind the H100 to mount both the radiator and the fan. If you can't mount it in the rear, then you'll need to put it in the front (if that's possible with the 410... I'm not familiar with the case), which will probably necessitate the longer tubes on the x31.


----------



## t0m3k

After three months of using G10 with H55 my temps on R9 290 changed from 68 degrees to 95 now with and 2 hours of valley benchmark. While room temperature increased only by 4 degrees.
I tried to reapply thermal paste (artic silver 5) but after first try id was 80 in IDLE, second time 100 straight after I turned benchmark on and now (third time) it's getting to 95 within 10 minutes and washers are gone.
So I was wondering if I shouldn't buy better thermal paste (which?) and some washers on ebay: LINK but what size? M2? Or some smaller? I'm from uk.
And which paste?
I'll add that I destroyed stock cooling (on purpose, it wasn't accident







 I'm engineer and I'm fixing phones everyday) so I cannot check with it.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t0m3k*
> 
> After three months of using G10 with H55 my temps on R9 290 changed from 68 degrees to 95 now with and 2 hours of valley benchmark. While room temperature increased only by 4 degrees.
> I tried to reapply thermal paste (artic silver 5) but after first try id was 80 in IDLE, second time 100 straight after I turned benchmark on and now (third time) it's getting to 95 within 10 minutes and washers are gone.
> So I was wondering if I shouldn't buy better thermal paste (which?) and some washers on ebay: LINK but what size? M2? Or some smaller? I'm from uk.
> And which paste?
> I'll add that I destroyed stock cooling (on purpose, it wasn't accident
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm engineer and I'm fixing phones everyday) so I cannot check with it.


Gelid GC-Extreme is expensive, but you get what you pay for. If I were you, though, I'd check to see if your pump is still working. Even the cheapest paste shouldn't stop working after only a couple of months...


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t0m3k*
> 
> After three months of using G10 with H55 my temps on R9 290 changed from 68 degrees to 95 now with and 2 hours of valley benchmark. While room temperature increased only by 4 degrees.
> I tried to reapply thermal paste (artic silver 5) but after first try id was 80 in IDLE, second time 100 straight after I turned benchmark on and now (third time) it's getting to 95 within 10 minutes and washers are gone.
> So I was wondering if I shouldn't buy better thermal paste (which?) and some washers on ebay: LINK but what size? M2? Or some smaller? I'm from uk.
> And which paste?
> I'll add that I destroyed stock cooling (on purpose, it wasn't accident
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm engineer and I'm fixing phones everyday) so I cannot check with it.


Mostly it's about poor seating of the AIO. That's the first thing u should look at before buying other stuff.

Here's a few suggestions.

1) Does your GPU have a backplate or midplate? is it preventing good contact?
2) Does the GPU need a shim? One way to tell is the stock cooler itself has a shim prefitted.
3)This may not be the issue but still good to monitor the VRMs. U may want to take a picture of the top of the PCB layout if you're not sure if the VRMs have heatsinks on.

The G10 is a great, affordable product. The problem is it can be worse if the user fails to find that sweet spot.


----------



## craftio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> For the EVGA 980TIs with a midplate (any of the ACX models), you *MUST* have at least a 1.5mm shim. I first used a 1.2mm shim on mine and it wasn't thick enough. This is the exact shim I'm using now, and my temps max out between 48-55c depending on ambient (because no AC in the house). With the thinner shim I was reaching the mid-60s, which means that I was passing the first voltage throttle point.
> 
> As for which AIO to go with, either should work if you put it in the rear exhaust port. Just check to make sure you have sufficient clearance below/behind the H100 to mount both the radiator and the fan. If you can't mount it in the rear, then you'll need to put it in the front (if that's possible with the 410... I'm not familiar with the case), which will probably necessitate the longer tubes on the x31.


Thanks for the advice. Ordered the shim from the link you provided. Hope it gets to me asap 
Will be ordering the kraken g10 and x31 from Amazon...

Looking forward to cooling my classy 980ti. Currently its at 77deg celsius when playing Witcher3. My room ambient is about 31 deg Cel (i'm in singapore). I oced (max boost 1477mhz) it and set a pretty aggressive fan profile. Runs stable but the fan is pretty loud (85% fan speed when at 77Deg)....


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craftio*
> 
> Hi
> Nice setup.
> I am also considering using the NZXT Kraken G10 with an AIO cooler on my EVGA Classified 980ti
> 
> 2 questions
> 1) What size shim did you use? 25 X 25 X1mm ?? or 25 x 25 x 1.6mm?? where did you get the shims?
> 2) I a, using a NZXT 410 case with a Corsair H100 topmounted for my CPU. Would a NZXT x31(for the longer and thinner tube length) or a Corsair H55 be better?
> 
> Cheers


Order the PS3 shim from redlightfix or something on Amazon. It is much better and makes perfect contact. I also ordered the eBay shim and it is terrible since it is very difficult to mount and also has very little surface area. The Amazon 42x42x1.2 mm shim is perfect. With fans on 950 rpm on my h55 I am getting 50 c temperatures. With fans on 1200 my card doesn't break 50 c. Also the eBay shim wasn't lapped which pissed me off.

NZXT x31 is better since tubing is 16 inches vs. corsair h55 11.5 inches. Also I got NZXT x31 for my second classified and h55 for my top classified.


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t0m3k*
> 
> After three months of using G10 with H55 my temps on R9 290 changed from 68 degrees to 95 now with and 2 hours of valley benchmark. While room temperature increased only by 4 degrees.
> I tried to reapply thermal paste (artic silver 5) but after first try id was 80 in IDLE, second time 100 straight after I turned benchmark on and now (third time) it's getting to 95 within 10 minutes and washers are gone.
> So I was wondering if I shouldn't buy better thermal paste (which?) and some washers on ebay: LINK but what size? M2? Or some smaller? I'm from uk.
> And which paste?
> I'll add that I destroyed stock cooling (on purpose, it wasn't accident
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm engineer and I'm fixing phones everyday) so I cannot check with it.


You have a dead pump. Contact corsair for a replacement. They are fantastic.


----------



## craftio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Order the PS3 shim from redlightfix or something on Amazon. It is much better and makes perfect contact. I also ordered the eBay shim and it is terrible since it is very difficult to mount and also has very little surface area. The Amazon 42x42x1.2 mm shim is perfect. With fans on 950 rpm on my h55 I am getting 50 c temperatures. With fans on 1200 my card doesn't break 50 c. Also the eBay shim wasn't lapped which pissed me off.
> 
> NZXT x31 is better since tubing is 16 inches vs. corsair h55 11.5 inches. Also I got NZXT x31 for my second classified and h55 for my top classified.


Just to confirm. Is that correct?

a *42* x *42* x 1.2 mm shim?

This one? Link

Its huge.. will it fit the evga classfiied 980ti?

Cheers


----------



## t0m3k

Pump is OK 100%. I just disassembled it, took big screwdriver and with knowledge that it might kill my gpu tightened the screws as much as I could. And it's working, now after oc and 1 hour of valley it\s 66 and not going up.
And yes I forgot to add that there is mid-plate from XFX DD cooler but as far as i could tell it didn't interfere.
I'll order anyway this shim: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M1330-Copper-Shim-1-6mm-GPU-Heat-Sink-/160508577947?hash=item255f0e889b
This paste: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gelid-Solutions-GC-3-3-5g-Extreme-GC-Extreme-Performance-Thermal-Compound-Paste-/310649505646?hash=item485427476e
and I'll hope it will help.
I'm quiet sure it's my fault and I misjudged mid-plate interference.

So probably for saving me a lot of time I want to say THANK YOU GUYS









BTW. This gelid is 100% non conductive? As I'm wondering if I should put alot of it under shim so it can take heat not only from small chip only but from whole big unit?


----------



## MattyMatt

Got some questions! Looking at using these together with a Zalman LQ310 on my 980s (both 04G-P4-2982-KR). The the tiny heatsinks will fit under the fan? Or if possible, can I keep the mid plate which I believe these cards have? Them I'll need a shim? Can I keep the original backplate? Is there anything else I should know?

Probably dumb questions.

Also if anyone has Canadian links for those things to save on shipping, would be much appreciated.


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craftio*
> 
> Just to confirm. Is that correct?
> a *42* x *42* x 1.2 mm shim?
> 
> This one? Link
> Its huge.. will it fit the evga classfiied 980ti?
> 
> Cheers


Yes, that is the one I got.


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t0m3k*
> 
> Pump is OK 100%. I just disassembled it, took big screwdriver and with knowledge that it might kill my gpu tightened the screws as much as I could. And it's working, now after oc and 1 hour of valley it\s 66 and not going up.
> And yes I forgot to add that there is mid-plate from XFX DD cooler but as far as i could tell it didn't interfere.
> I'll order anyway this shim: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M1330-Copper-Shim-1-6mm-GPU-Heat-Sink-/160508577947?hash=item255f0e889b
> This paste: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gelid-Solutions-GC-3-3-5g-Extreme-GC-Extreme-Performance-Thermal-Compound-Paste-/310649505646?hash=item485427476e
> and I'll hope it will help.
> I'm quiet sure it's my fault and I misjudged mid-plate interference.
> 
> So probably for saving me a lot of time I want to say THANK YOU GUYS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW. This gelid is 100% non conductive? As I'm wondering if I should put alot of it under shim so it can take heat not only from small chip only but from whole big unit?


Order the shim linked above from Amazon. AS5 is also best for GPU cooling.


----------



## oldiron

Hey All , I need to tap the great minds here and see what advice I can get.
Heres my gaming rig- [email protected] ghz, sabertooth 990fx, 16gb gskill 1866, cooler master 942 haf-x, 2x-xfx r9 280x BE, 2x-1TB WD BE.
Lately I've noticed my gpu temps getting real hot 95-100c, normally 80-85c under load, so I figured they were due for a thermal compound change/upgrade as they have never been touched and while I was at it I'd put them on Kraken10's with h55's to try and add to my cooling. Also picked up vrm and vram heatsinks. So I am looking at the build and the hoses on the H55's are not that long Maybe 11-12" which limits where I can place the rads. I could place one in front drive bays and one on floor(although most of floor intake is covered by psu) or place both on floor and exhausting through side window. Well after a cpl mock ups I have to go with top GPU exhausting out front drive bay and the bottom GPU exhausting out side window mounted in a custom acrylic PSU cover I made. I planned on doing aa full window side mod at this time as well so would be losing the 200mm side intake fan on my haf-x. This leads to question 1, my case has 2x200mm top exhaust, 1x230mm intake front, ad my H80i is mounted on back of my case exhausting top rear. Should I change top 2x200mm to intake? and front intake to exhaust? I know its going to be trial and error just looking for ideas there.
Question 2 is, like everybody I hate looking at the backsides' of my GPU's and wanted to use a cpl alphacool backplates and paint them to match. Has anybody tried the kraken on these or any other similar backplates? Heres aa shot of my rig stripped down almost ready for the mods.


----------



## KickAssCop

In order to use a backplate you will need new screws since the one that come with NZXT bracket are tiny. I am using m2.5, 0.45 screws with 30 mm length. Steel machine din 7985 or something.


----------



## aaronlaplante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldiron*
> 
> Hey All , I need to tap the great minds here and see what advice I can get.
> Heres my gaming rig- [email protected] ghz, sabertooth 990fx, 16gb gskill 1866, cooler master 942 haf-x, 2x-xfx r9 280x BE, 2x-1TB WD BE.
> Lately I've noticed my gpu temps getting real hot 95-100c, normally 80-85c under load, so I figured they were due for a thermal compound change/upgrade as they have never been touched and while I was at it I'd put them on Kraken10's with h55's to try and add to my cooling. Also picked up vrm and vram heatsinks. So I am looking at the build and the hoses on the H55's are not that long Maybe 11-12" which limits where I can place the rads. I could place one in front drive bays and one on floor(although most of floor intake is covered by psu) or place both on floor and exhausting through side window. Well after a cpl mock ups I have to go with top GPU exhausting out front drive bay and the bottom GPU exhausting out side window mounted in a custom acrylic PSU cover I made. I planned on doing aa full window side mod at this time as well so would be losing the 200mm side intake fan on my haf-x. This leads to question 1, my case has 2x200mm top exhaust, 1x230mm intake front, ad my H80i is mounted on back of my case exhausting top rear. Should I change top 2x200mm to intake? and front intake to exhaust? I know its going to be trial and error just looking for ideas there.
> Question 2 is, like everybody I hate looking at the backsides' of my GPU's and wanted to use a cpl alphacool backplates and paint them to match. Has anybody tried the kraken on these or any other similar backplates? Heres aa shot of my rig stripped down almost ready for the mods.


Or your option is to buy a fan duct and to locate the exhaust wherever you like. See link below, and search for your appropriate size needed (ie 120mm). In the past I have used this method along with a reducer to cover the entire area of the fan spot (ie 140mm while using 120mm fan).

http://www.coolerguys.com/cgfvdt120.html


----------



## SirKnight7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> In order to use a backplate you will need new screws since the one that come with NZXT bracket are tiny. I am using m2.5, 0.45 screws with 30 mm length. Steel machine din 7985 or something.


Thanks for sharing your experience and material choices. I am in the process of getting everything together to cool a 980ti SC ACX and I have a couple questions:

- Did you put any heatsinks on the VRAM or power section of the card? - I would like to put some copper on both places but I'm wondering what my clearances will be in terms of height with the bracket on.

- Do you have a link to order the 30mm screws you mentioned above, not sure if I can find those locally?

Thanks in advance

Well, I found the screws in a pack of 100 on Amazon







http://www.amazon.com/Coarse-Thread-Machine-Phillips-Carbon/dp/B00Z3W1QB2


----------



## MEC-777

FYI, there's a new PC mod supplier called "ModMyMods". Funny name I know, but they sell VRM/Vram heat sinks: http://modmymods.com/air-cooling/ram-vrm-heatsinks.html

Cheers.


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirKnight7*
> 
> Thanks for sharing your experience and material choices. I am in the process of getting everything together to cool a 980ti SC ACX and I have a couple questions:
> 
> - Did you put any heatsinks on the VRAM or power section of the card? - I would like to put some copper on both places but I'm wondering what my clearances will be in terms of height with the bracket on.
> 
> - Do you have a link to order the 30mm screws you mentioned above, not sure if I can find those locally?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Well, I found the screws in a pack of 100 on Amazon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Coarse-Thread-Machine-Phillips-Carbon/dp/B00Z3W1QB2


I did not need to put any VRM sinks since fan is right on top of them. Sinks would just add another layer which I believe is not needed. Also sinks would block flow to the full mid plate therby defeating the purpose of it. If stock cooling doesn't have active need for it why should modded cooling have the need. I would rather have free flowing air onto all components through the 92mm fan.
My VRAM is cooled by the mid plate so I didn't need any additional cooling for it. Also the reason why I needed a shim.

These are the screws I used. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00917LV9M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


----------



## MattyMatt

Does anyone have a link to a place I can buy the shim in Canada to avoid shipping fees?


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirKnight7*
> 
> Thanks for sharing your experience and material choices. I am in the process of getting everything together to cool a 980ti SC ACX and I have a couple questions:
> 
> - Did you put any heatsinks on the VRAM or power section of the card? - I would like to put some copper on both places but I'm wondering what my clearances will be in terms of height with the bracket on.
> 
> - Do you have a link to order the 30mm screws you mentioned above, not sure if I can find those locally?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Well, I found the screws in a pack of 100 on Amazon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Coarse-Thread-Machine-Phillips-Carbon/dp/B00Z3W1QB2


Usually, there's no need to cool the VRAM as the temps are manageable. I've tried heatsinks on the VRAM and there were no noticeable differences. If you're concerned, u can use software to monitor the temps if your card allows it or get a temp gauge. Point at the VRAM and it'll be pick up a reading. It's an inexpensive tool and quite useful.

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Non-contact-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440055584&sr=8-1&keywords=infrared+temperature+gun


----------



## t0m3k

I had to put heatsinks on my vrm as temps were getting up to over 110 degrees with OC. Now it's about 80. I bought generic ones from eBay.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t0m3k*
> 
> I had to put heatsinks on my vrm as temps were getting up to over 110 degrees with OC. Now it's about 80. I bought generic ones from eBay.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


What's your GPU?


----------



## Ultisym

Always put Heat sinks on the vrms. Most of the GPUs people are doing this mod on will come with a vrm sink attached to the pcb or as part of the attached cooler (In this case add heatsinks to the vrms with the G-10 mod). As someone already mentioned, sinks on VRAM make almost no difference at all in performance and the temps are manageable regardless.


----------



## oldiron

Thanks guys.....the hardware I know i will need to change and go with longer screws, not an issue here, I also figured I'd have to use a screw backwards if you may to hold the backplate to the card as the backplate is not thredded, or maybe i can change that once i see them with a riv-nut.
The duct is a decent idea, but still leaves me with placement of the rads, and I'd rather not be looking at the rads or the duct inside my case, I've made a nice lighted acrylic cover for my drive bays with the sabertooth logo etched on it hats removed in the photo and my psu cover that I fabbed to hold the lower rad will match. I want to keep the case as clean looking as possible. My g10's I painted a deep metalic cobalt blue, and will do the same with the backplate along with some white highlights. The rest of the case outside will get the same deep cobalt blue to change it from the metelic pearl sky blue(cooper mini) which it is now. Thanks on the vram tip and the help....i'll post pics as i get started, right now waiting on the white carbon fiber wrap for the psu cover to arrive.
Keep the ideas flowing here I'm liking it. and thanks to all again.


----------



## oldiron

Oh on a side note---- the new modmymods.com site is actually the former employees of frozencpu that banded together to venture into that start up....I was on their site last night checking it out, pretty decent selection and pricing.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldiron*
> 
> Thanks guys.....the hardware I know i will need to change and go with longer screws, not an issue here, I also figured I'd have to use a screw backwards if you may to hold the backplate to the card as the backplate is not thredded, or maybe i can change that once i see them with a riv-nut.
> The duct is a decent idea, but still leaves me with placement of the rads, and I'd rather not be looking at the rads or the duct inside my case, I've made a nice lighted acrylic cover for my drive bays with the sabertooth logo etched on it hats removed in the photo and my psu cover that I fabbed to hold the lower rad will match. I want to keep the case as clean looking as possible. My g10's I painted a deep metalic cobalt blue, and will do the same with the backplate along with some white highlights. The rest of the case outside will get the same deep cobalt blue to change it from the metelic pearl sky blue(cooper mini) which it is now. Thanks on the vram tip and the help....i'll post pics as i get started, right now waiting on the white carbon fiber wrap for the psu cover to arrive.
> Keep the ideas flowing here I'm liking it. and thanks to all again.


I ended up mounting both the radiators for the H-90s for my 980's on the removable side panel with fans pulling exhaust. I had to get a little creative and mounted the fans on the outside of the panel. But i didnt ghetto it. I drilled a hole for the cables, placed a rubber grommet and also mounted some nice black grills. Obviously it wasnt my preferred method of doing this but it worked out well and looks nice too IMO. The only downside is it makes casual access a little tricky but all intake fans and ports are filtered so I rarely go in. Still, there's plenty of room to open the side panel and work inside. Placing them on the top of the case wasnt a choice for me because I have a 280mm radiator mounted there.So I Did the same thing with the fans there mounting them on top of the case but with the fans pushing intake. IMO it is important to exhaust the radiators from the GPU. The amount of heat generated is tremendous. You will want to dump it straight out of the case. There are of course other fans in my case but overall the circuit works great with CPU temps between 50C to 65C depending on what im doing. The GPUs never exceed 54C and they have a moderate OC of 1400 core.


----------



## Jeptil0t

R9 290 + Kraken G10 + Kraken X31

So I have used the Gelid Icy Vision 290 Enhancement kit, which includes heatsinks for VRM1 and VRM 2. However looking for ultimate cooling, I went even further...

The Gelid VRM1 heatsinks is using Alphacool Eisschicht 11W/mK 1.0mm thermal pad and the VRM2 is using the Alphacool 1W/mK 0.5mm Thermal Adhesive tape.

So I went ahead and mounted 5x Alphacool 2.5mm x 2.5mm heatsinks to the backside of the VRM1 and 1x RAM sink on the VRM2.

I used Alphacool Eisschicht 11W/mK 1.0mm thermal pads, double stacked, to attach them RAM sinks. Keeping in mind these are not adhesive pads, they do stick reasonably well considering, allowing me to remove the card in any orientation without them falling off, but you can easily pull them off, so it requires some care.



Unigine 30 Minutes:

So using the Gelid Kit + Alphacool thermal interface:

VRM1 - 70c max
VRM2 - 67c max

+ Backside RAM sinks:

VRM1 - 59c
VRM2 - 63c

In this configuration I have virtually no airflow over VRM2, and reasonable airflow over VRM1.

With a side fan directly on VMR2.

VRM2 - 51c

The cards was fully overclocked with +100mv on CoreV and +13mv on AuxV with +50% Power Limit and 1100Mhz GPU Core and 1350Mhz RAM.

Also The Kraken X31 @ 100% + Gelid GC Extreme thermal paste, GPU temps are 45c max.

I would say back mounting adds quite a bit of cooling performance, but airflow is probably even more important, combining both adds the most performance. You can probably stack thermal tape from 3M or Alphacool for a more permanent solution, but you will need at least 2.0mm of thickness to ensure safe clearance between your RAM sinks and the electronics.

Also, just for lels, Furmark while heavily overclocked:

VRM1: 91
VRM2: 54
GPU: 55

I stopped once VRM1 hit 91 so it would have gone higher, but realistically the test is rather pointless as no game in going to draw that kind of stress on the power components, as the GPU simply doesn't require that much power delivery to maintain stable clock speeds in any 3D application.

I wouldn't be benching Furmark without a full cover block and I wouldn't really be estimating cooling capacity of any other solution with it either. Just IMO.


----------



## oldiron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I ended up mounting both the radiators for the H-90s for my 980's on the removable side panel with fans pulling exhaust. I had to get a little creative and mounted the fans on the outside of the panel. But i didnt ghetto it. I drilled a hole for the cables, placed a rubber grommet and also mounted some nice black grills. Obviously it wasnt my preferred method of doing this but it worked out well and looks nice too IMO. The only downside is it makes casual access a little tricky but all intake fans and ports are filtered so I rarely go in. Still, there's plenty of room to open the side panel and work inside. Placing them on the top of the case wasnt a choice for me because I have a 280mm radiator mounted there.So I Did the same thing with the fans there mounting them on top of the case but with the fans pushing intake. IMO it is important to exhaust the radiators from the GPU. The amount of heat generated is tremendous. You will want to dump it straight out of the case. There are of course other fans in my case but overall the circuit works great with CPU temps between 50C to 65C depending on what im doing. The GPUs never exceed 54C and they have a moderate OC of 1400 core.


Thanks Ultisym, I saw one similar as you did in my searches and actually liked that look alot, its what got me started on this mod and I was initially planning on putting both rads there but such as the case during mock up ran into a few issues. Rad hose for top g10 h55 combo was not long enough to fit both side by side in front of the PSU. So after mocking up a few different ways it looks like the best for me is the rad for the top g10 will be mounted in the drive bays hiding it and I will have it push/pull as exhaust, and the lower g10 rad will be in the PSU cover with a push as exhaust there. The PSU cover is sloped on the front to help with air from intake to get over the cover and it sort of seals the bottom of the case off so it will draw air from the fan port just behind the PSU in the photo. I just have to figure out some sort of seal or spacer to flush out with the window once side panel is installed. and mount the grill on the window itself. that way when side panel is removed I dont have to mess with any wires or anything. I agree with both being exhaust, is why I was think of flippling the others in my case around but maybe I am overthinking that part, since my temps in the case will be lower anyway? Can you post a shot of your setup?


----------



## oldiron

[

I would say back mounting adds quite a bit of cooling performance, but airflow is probably even more important, combining both adds the most performance. You can probably stack thermal tape from 3M or Alphacool for a more permanent solution, but you will need at least 2.0mm of thickness to ensure safe clearance between your RAM sinks and the electronics.[/quote]

So how do you think my idea of using the alphacool backplate as a heat sink will work? my thought there was while I wanted something that looks good would also dble as passive cooling.


----------



## KickAssCop

Some shots of my second mount on the second classified (one with NZXT X31). I do not recommend NZXT X31 over H55. My H55 with single fan gets the card to 55 C tops whereas, NZXT gets the card to 61 C. Was a hassle to mount the radiator. Tried everything and settled for the sub par option of next to HDDs.


----------



## MattyMatt

@KickAssCop You used a shim because of the mid plate? Is the fan that comes with the G10 very loud, is that why you replaced it?

Has anyone tried to use one of these to control the fans: http://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA/ ?


----------



## oldiron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Some shots of my second mount on the second classified (one with NZXT X31). I do not recommend NZXT X31 over H55. My H55 with single fan gets the card to 55 C tops whereas, NZXT gets the card to 61 C. Was a hassle to mount the radiator. Tried everything and settled for the sub par option of next to HDDs.


Thanks K.A.C,
I feel your pain man, when I first started I thought man huge case I can put them anywhere, then reality set in and after numerous head scratches I had to move my 2 swappable drives all the way up in front drive bay, then removed the HHD rack below, was not real easy set up. I was lucky with timing thats why I got the H55's, bought the 2 g10's and the 2 H55's for 75.00 for all.


----------



## KickAssCop

Yes you need a shim for mid plate. I use the Noctua fan since it is low profile so easy to manage cables and pass them through.


----------



## KickAssCop

Quick question, which fan header should I use to make sure my h55 and NZXT pumps are running full speed? They are 3 pin but my mothetboard fan headers are all 4 pin.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Quick question, which fan header should I use to make sure my h55 and NZXT pumps are running full speed? They are 3 pin but my mothetboard fan headers are all 4 pin.


Fourth pin is for PWM control, so it doesn't really matter. I would just head into the BIOS and whichever plug you select, make sure it doesn't have a curve or anything if you want to pump going 100% all the time.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> @KickAssCop You used a shim because of the mid plate? Is the fan that comes with the G10 very loud, is that why you replaced it?
> 
> Has anyone tried to use one of these to control the fans: http://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA/ ?


I am using one, and I know several others are as well. Works very well, just make sure you use a PWM fan unless you want it to run 100%.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am using one, and I know several others are as well. Works very well, just make sure you use a PWM fan unless you want it to run 100%.


Thanks for the info! I was thinking of using this for both the VRM and rad fans.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Some shots of my second mount on the second classified (one with NZXT X31). I do not recommend NZXT X31 over H55. My H55 with single fan gets the card to 55 C tops whereas, NZXT gets the card to 61 C. Was a hassle to mount the radiator. Tried everything and settled for the sub par option of next to HDDs.


The H55s are good coolers for the money and I agree that they are better performance wise than the X31, but that mounting location is way less than ideal. 61C is pretty good for where you have it mounted. Your numbers would be better if you had the second GPUs radiator mounted on the side panel exhausting. I realize thats not the look your going for though and to be honest, if your getting those numbers while gaming, your fine and there is no point messing with it. Looks good overall.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Thanks for the info! I was thinking of using this for both the VRM and rad fans.


What GPU are you using, i bought some of these and ended up giving them away. they wouldnt fit the ASUS Strix . I am really not sure if there are others that wont work with it.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> What GPU are you using, i bought some of these and ended up giving them away. they wouldnt fit the ASUS Strix . I am really not sure if there are others that wont work with it.


EVGA 980 SC, reference design, so I wouldn't see why not.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> EVGA 980 SC, reference design, so I wouldn't see why not.


It probably will, I was just giving you a heads up that the header on the non reference PCB designs do not always work with that adapter. I ended up just getting some Nanoxia Deep Silence fans and running then full speed. The fans that come with the G-10 werent bad though to be honest.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t0m3k*
> 
> Pump is OK 100%. I just disassembled it, took big screwdriver and with knowledge that it might kill my gpu tightened the screws as much as I could. And it's working, now after oc and 1 hour of valley it\s 66 and not going up.
> And yes I forgot to add that there is mid-plate from XFX DD cooler but as far as i could tell it didn't interfere.
> I'll order anyway this shim: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M1330-Copper-Shim-1-6mm-GPU-Heat-Sink-/160508577947?hash=item255f0e889b
> This paste: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gelid-Solutions-GC-3-3-5g-Extreme-GC-Extreme-Performance-Thermal-Compound-Paste-/310649505646?hash=item485427476e
> and I'll hope it will help.
> I'm quiet sure it's my fault and I misjudged mid-plate interference.
> 
> So probably for saving me a lot of time I want to say THANK YOU GUYS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW. This gelid is 100% non conductive? As I'm wondering if I should put alot of it under shim so it can take heat not only from small chip only but from whole big unit?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Warmeleitpaste-5-55-Gramm-1-5-ml-/151767996685?hash=item235613d90d
This is the best thermal interface material. Non- conductive. As far as using thermal paste, just follow the instructions don't get mad and use the whole tube at once. I can't comment on the size of your shim, I'm using 1mm x 20 x 20.


----------



## oldiron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Thanks for the info! I was thinking of using this for both the VRM and rad fans.


I have read/heard that you should only use the PCB header for 1 fan only as it wont support more than that. Is that true does anybody know?


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> @KickAssCop You used a shim because of the mid plate? Is the fan that comes with the G10 very loud, is that why you replaced it?
> 
> Has anyone tried to use one of these to control the fans: http://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA/ ?


I was recommended to replace the fan that comes with G10, and I've not tried the original fan.

This adapter + *Akasa FLEXA FP5, Smart PWM cable for 5 PWM case fans*, works excellently with PWM fans best thing about it is the price (compared to a fan controller). http://www.akasa.co.uk/search.php?seed=AK-CBFA03-45

I'm using these fans: Three Fan Bundle - Silverstone SST-FQ121 FQ Series 1225 PWM - Watercooling Optimised Fan https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=BU-018-SV I can control the G10's fan + 4 radiator fans via Akasa Flexa FP5 straight from the GPU fan connector. I've fact I bought a PWM splitter and I will add another fan from the side to cool vram, its only the PSU that powers the fans there is no strain on the GPU fan header.

Your GPU fan header must have 4 pins i.e. PWM not 2 or 3. My Asus 280x DCIIT (DC2T) 3GD5 had 5 pins but after a bit of brow mopping I figured out the correct pinout for the header and fan therfore was able to orientate the fan connector using 4 of the 5 pins of the gpu fan header.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Quick question, which fan header should I use to make sure my h55 and NZXT pumps are running full speed? They are 3 pin but my mothetboard fan headers are all 4 pin.


You should use a molex to 3 pin adapter to connect the pump to. I've got one which has a fan speed monitoring offshoot to plug into the motherboard (so it can read the pump speed while the pump is being powered to 12v by the PSU). I was looking for a link but I can't see one just yet: http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cables&type_sub=Fan%20Cable%20Adapters&model=C-CABLE-ADPT


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldiron*
> 
> I have read/heard that you should only use the PCB header for 1 fan only as it wont support more than that. Is that true does anybody know?


I would not split the line from the header on the GPU. They have two different jobs. The fan on the G-10 is only for the VRMs, the one on the radiator is for the heat off the gpu. If you are going to be overclocking the gpu at all I would leave the fan on the G-10 bracket at full power. Just my opinion.

A couple of options for the fans on the radiator are
1. Plug them into the mainboard and then go into the bios and create a fan curve for them there.
2. Get a fan controller. What I like about the fan controllers are that most come with a temp sensor for each channel on the controller. Some are adjusted manually only, some you can program a curve into the controller based on a temp sensor that youve actually placed where it needs to be. Obviously you can spend as much or as little as you want on a good controller.
I have run the NZXT fans that come with the G-10s and they actually did a great job and were not noisy. I swapped them out more because I cant leave anything alone than anything. The fans on the radiator are a different story, the ones that come with the CLC kits are loud IMO. Im currently trying the aerocool dead silence fans at the moments and they are doing great. As its a new product, longevity is yet to be seen. Anyway, my point is if your going to spend money on fans, the ones on the radiators is where to do it. Picking good fans and controlling the speeds just help you keep the temps and the noise to a minimum.


----------



## oldiron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I would not split the line from the header on the GPU. They have two different jobs. The fan on the G-10 is only for the VRMs, the one on the radiator is for the heat off the gpu. If you are going to be overclocking the gpu at all I would leave the fan on the G-10 bracket at full power. Just my opinion.
> 
> A couple of options for the fans on the radiator are
> 1. Plug them into the mainboard and then go into the bios and create a fan curve for them there.
> 2. Get a fan controller. What I like about the fan controllers are that most come with a temp sensor for each channel on the controller. Some are adjusted manually only, some you can program a curve into the controller based on a temp sensor that youve actually placed where it needs to be. Obviously you can spend as much or as little as you want on a good controller.
> I have run the NZXT fans that come with the G-10s and they actually did a great job and were not noisy. I swapped them out more because I cant leave anything alone than anything. The fans on the radiator are a different story, the ones that come with the CLC kits are loud IMO. Im currently trying the aerocool dead silence fans at the moments and they are doing great. As its a new product, longevity is yet to be seen. Anyway, my point is if your going to spend money on fans, the ones on the radiators is where to do it. Picking good fans and controlling the speeds just help you keep the temps and the noise to a minimum.


Thanks Ultisym, all good advice. So if I can recap just cause I am old and want to make sure I got it right.
1 Fans on G10 to GPU fan header
2 H55 pumps on 3pin to molex adaptor to psu to run at 100% or use something like masteratarrms suggests and use mb fan header to set curve
3 I picked up a swiftech sata powered pwm adaptor on mb for h55 fans and set curve
Do you separate the master and slave settings? like one mb header for each set of H55 fans? Sorry if this sounds stupid just trying to avoid unnecessary work (old and lazy) Thanks all, all you guys been a huge help


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldiron*
> 
> Thanks Ultisym, all good advice. So if I can recap just cause I am old and want to make sure I got it right.
> 1 Fans on G10 to GPU fan header
> 2 H55 pumps on 3pin to molex adaptor to psu to run at 100% or use something like masteratarrms suggests and use mb fan header to set curve
> 3 I picked up a swiftech sata powered pwm adaptor on mb for h55 fans and set curve
> Do you separate the master and slave settings? like one mb header for each set of H55 fans? Sorry if this sounds stupid just trying to avoid unnecessary work (old and lazy) Thanks all, all you guys been a huge help


I apologize for not going back and reading every post, im at work, so bear with me please. How many fans are you wanting to set a curve for?

Obviously there is one on each G-10 and its corresponding radiator so thats 4......you are running two gpus or did i mess that up?

What are you doing for your CPU? Take a minute and put your rig and your signature. That helps a lot.


----------



## Someone09

@ oldiron

Just throwing in my 2 cents here.

IMO it comes down to how many fan connectors you have available and/or how much you are willing to spend additionally the the G10 & AiO.

I´d say a good starting point is the following configuration:
Plug in your radiator fans into a free header on your motherboard.
Connect the pump header to your PSU.
As for the G10 fan itself, either plug it into your PSU too (maybe using a low noise adapter...but mind you not too low) or get a pwm to GPU adapter, connect it to your GPU and adjust the fan profile in Afterburner/PrecisionX.

The important part is that your pump runs at full speed (at least when the GPU is under load) and that your VRM fan runs at considerably high speed since VRM cooling is crucial too.
I mean, controlling your radiator fans according to the GPU temp is important too but somewhat obvious IMO.

As long as you fullfil those two (or rather three) points, everything else is up to you.
You could run everything at 75% all the time or something like that.
You could get a fan controller and hook some or all of the fans up to it.
You could connect all the fans & pump to your motherboard somehow.
You should not connect all the fans & pump directly to your GPU though.

As you see, lots of possibilities.


----------



## KickAssCop

Well, as I said earlier, I wasn't happy with temperatures so I remounted the NZXT card (card 1) and put it towards the outward drive bays with zip ties lol.



Also remounted the bracket and ensured contact was proper. Now the top card is running at 75 C only in Farcry 4. Every other game including Witcher 3, benchmarks etc are with top card at 65 and bottom card at 55. In Farcry 4 the card seems to get very hot possibly because of me running it at 4k with Max settings minus AA.

I am thinking this is due to the stupid Radiator that I bought. Problem is if I had gotten any corsair radiator the tubing wouldn't have reached like it does now. I will try the molex to 3 pin suggestion for radiator, might improve the flow.

The above shot is before some cable management. But damn, what a hassle.


----------



## oldiron

Thanks guys and sorry about my sig


----------



## oldiron

not sure what happened there but the other half off my reply didn't make it.- my setup will be top gpu rad mounted in drive bay exhausting with push//pull. Lower gpu rad mounted in acrylic psu cover I made exhausting out side window with push only


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Well, as I said earlier, I wasn't happy with temperatures so I remounted the NZXT card (card 1) and put it towards the outward drive bays with zip ties lol.
> 
> Also remounted the bracket and ensured contact was proper. Now the top card is running at 75 C only in Farcry 4. Every other game including Witcher 3, benchmarks etc are with top card at 65 and bottom card at 55. In Farcry 4 the card seems to get very hot possibly because of me running it at 4k with Max settings minus AA.
> 
> I am thinking this is due to the stupid Radiator that I bought. Problem is if I had gotten any corsair radiator the tubing wouldn't have reached like it does now. I will try the molex to 3 pin suggestion for radiator, might improve the flow.
> 
> The above shot is before some cable management. But damn, what a hassle.


Are u using NZXT AIO for the top card? if so, do check with the CAM software if the pump is regulated to perform at max during high temps.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldiron*
> 
> Thanks Ultisym, all good advice. So if I can recap just cause I am old and want to make sure I got it right.
> 1 Fans on G10 to GPU fan header
> 2 H55 pumps on 3pin to molex adaptor to psu to run at 100% or use something like masteratarrms suggests and use mb fan header to set curve
> 3 I picked up a swiftech sata powered pwm adaptor on mb for h55 fans and set curve


#2 You misunderstand. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1093/cab-09/3-pin_to_4-pin_Adapter_w_RPM_Monitoring.html?tl=g2c251s634
You don't control the pump using the motherboard just monitor its RPM for peace of mind (you can even set up an alert in Gigabyte SIV if the pump RPM drops below a certain RPM).
I found it quite hard to search for this type of cable its obviously quite rare. Or maybe I should be searching for RPM signal:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1058181/running-3-or-4-x-3-pin-fans-from-molex-with-rpm-signal-to-motherboard

As per my last post using the gelid 4 pin GPU to PWM adapter connected to the Akasa FP5 PWM fan splitter (links in previous post), I find that if I find my max GPU temp and then set my fan curve to max out somewhere around that temp its good for me. I used to use GPUtweak for voltage control of my 6850 and I had to make a profile and use a hotkey for gaming/2d since fan curve didn't work in that software. However now I can use a fan curve, in fact I've flashed the curve to my bios (Asus 280x DC2T 3GD5 (DCIIT)).

It would be nice to have separate radiator fan and VRM fan control but for what its costs for these two cables and the control you have its a more elegant solution than a fan controller & less expensive. Also there is nothing stopping you from connecting only the radiator fans up via the cable combo and then control the VRM fan on the G10 braket via the motherboard. I fail to see any advantage in a fan controller in this situation. Also if you are using a 120mm rad (I opted for a 240mm thick one) you could use the Akasa FP3 which only has wires for 3 PWM fans.


----------



## oldiron

# masteratarms
Got it.....pretty sure I am on the same page now....and thats really what I meant.....pump is powered by psu through molex and rpm curve is set through mb pwm.
I do like the idea of the rad fans and vrm fans being controlled separate and I think I'm going to take that 1 step further and control the rad fans from the 2 gpu's separate as well.
Thanks guys, the carbon fiber wrap for psu cover got here today so just waiting on the alphacool backplates, I'll post pics when I get into it..


----------



## oldiron

after re-reading I do got it now....not controlling pump rpm just monitoring it..


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> Are u using NZXT AIO for the top card? if so, do check with the CAM software if the pump is regulated to perform at max during high temps.


I used the USB header but CAM doesn't even detect the pump. Seems like buggy software.


----------



## falcon26

Anyone know if the MSI Gaming 980 ti will work with the bracket on? I mean is it just remove the 4 screws from the stock fan and attach the G10 while leaving the front bracket on as well as the back bracket?


----------



## Tim Drake

Is there a way I can easily attach a H110 to my GPU without the Kraken just to see if the temperatures are worth the money?


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Is there a way I can easily attach a H110 to my GPU without the Kraken just to see if the temperatures are worth the money?


Yes, use the original zip tie method. Search for The Mod - it's what these brackets are based one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Anyone know if the MSI Gaming 980 ti will work with the bracket on? I mean is it just remove the 4 screws from the stock fan and attach the G10 while leaving the front bracket on as well as the back bracket?


It's not reference: http://configurator.ekwb.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1681
The GPU is shifted a bit to the right VRMs are still mostly in the right location though. I think you would be OK.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Is there a way I can easily attach a H110 to my GPU without the Kraken just to see if the temperatures are worth the money?


Is it worth the risk? If you break your GPU what would it cost you then? Alot more than the bracket costs. Just read through this thread there will be plenty of stock/ g10 comparisons. When u cool with water its shocking how much temperatures can drop, especially if you get some decent airflow through the rad with push pull config.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Is it worth the risk? If you break your GPU what would it cost you then? Alot more than the bracket costs. Just read through this thread there will be plenty of stock/ g10 comparisons. When u cool with water its shocking how much temperatures can drop, especially if you get some decent airflow through the rad with push pull config.


I doubt I could break my card using zip ties but OK...


----------



## Tim Drake

Could someone find me the right thermal pads with a UK link? I wanna zip tie it on but I bought heatsinks so..


----------



## KickAssCop

I just bricked my 72.9 ASIC classified while installing the evga heat sink so I would be careful with such experiments.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> I just bricked my 72.9 ASIC classified while installing the evga heat sink so I would be careful with such experiments.


You realize bricking is when you fail a BIOS Flash..

How did you break your card?


----------



## KickAssCop

To me bricking is when it becomes paper weight. I wasn't happy with the NZXT rad mod I did on it recently. After trying to ghetto fit the radiator today I gave up. Reinstalled the evga heatsink. Card ran fine then system crash. Now everytime card is in computer display goes black when windows loads. Remounted sink and no difference. Now sending it back to Amazon for a refund.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I doubt I could break my card using zip ties but OK...


Ignore that guy, hardware is meant to be played with. Zip tie method is safe and reliable! Go for it. Just search for the thread I mentioned: The Mod.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Ignore that guy, hardware is meant to be played with. Zip tie method is safe and reliable! Go for it. Just search for the thread I mentioned: The Mod.


Already have, seems pretty solid but I only have 4 zip ties and I need VRM cooling

I have heatsinks waiting around, just need thermal pads.

I also found someone who makes a cheap backplate to easily install an AIO so I may go through that method.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> To me bricking is when it becomes paper weight.


Agreed. BTW "Intel i7 5930K @ 4.6 Gigawatts". A gigawatt? You mean 1.21 Gigawatts?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6SXG3WKucg


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Is there a way I can easily attach a H110 to my GPU without the Kraken just to see if the temperatures are worth the money?


The additional cooling of the CLC vs factory air movers is definitely worth it. The question to me would be whether its worth it to go with an H110 vs H90 vs H55 or whatever brand CLC you like. I have compared the H90 and H55 as the 980s im running now are actually the third pair of GPUs ive run the G-10s on. There was only a 1 or 2 degree temp difference between the two. I would imagine you can reduce it another 2 or 3 C with the 280mm radiator vs the 140mm. Whether thats worth it is up to you. To most, the difference is so small relative to the numbers without the water cooling that they choose the H-55 or 120mm equivalent. Its easily good enough. But some people cant leave things alone, im one of them. If I had room Id probably run something larger LOL.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Ignore that guy, hardware is meant to be played with. Zip tie method is safe and reliable! Go for it. Just search for the thread I mentioned: The Mod.


The zip tie method itself is no more dangerous than most other mods sure,but to be clear, anytime you do something like this there is a risk. ESD, bowing the PCB when tightening the zip ties (Or the screws on the g-10 pump bracket for that matter) can cause damage. Just take care and use a delicate touch when doing the mod.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The additional cooling of the CLC vs factory air movers is definitely worth it. The question to me would be whether its worth it to go with an H110 vs H90 vs H55 or whatever brand CLC you like. I have compared the H90 and H55 as the 980s im running now are actually the third pair of GPUs ive run the G-10s on. There was only a 1 or 2 degree temp difference between the two. I would imagine you can reduce it another 2 or 3 C with the 280mm radiator vs the 140mm. Whether thats worth it is up to you. To most, the difference is so small relative to the numbers without the water cooling that they choose the H-55 or 120mm equivalent. Its easily good enough. But some people cant leave things alone, im one of them. If I had room Id probably run something larger LOL.


I currently have a H110 and I overclock my GPU more than my CPU so it only makes sense to have stock on CPU and aftermarket on GPU


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I currently have a H110 and I overclock my GPU more than my CPU so it only makes sense to have stock on CPU and aftermarket on GPU


What are your rig specs? Should take a second and run the rig builder app at the top right of the page. I ave a 110 on the cpu in my rig. CPU is running at 5ghz and it handles it well, no Doubt it will do great on the gpu as well. Someone else has done that somewhere in the previous pages and they were quite happy with it. as for which post, this thread goes on and on. But it has been done.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> What are your rig specs? Should take a second and run the rig builder app at the top right of the page. I ave a 110 on the cpu in my rig. CPU is running at 5ghz and it handles it well, no Doubt it will do great on the gpu as well. Someone else has done that somewhere in the previous pages and they were quite happy with it. as for which post, this thread goes on and on. But it has been done.


I did do it but it doesn't work very well.

http://pastebin.com/sG1wN0Fx


----------



## DogeCoinOP

Hi All,

Just wanted to let you guys know that i fixed me high temp issues with the g10 and my 980 ti. The motherboard i have seems to have a fan pin connection controller that limited the voltage and lower my overall max rpm or even pump speed. I only noticed this recently when i put in a new fan and wanted to make sure it went to max speeds but couldn't even with software. Now my acx 980ti wont go any higher than 55 degrees, i just wanted people to know about this issue if they have any temp problems in the future


----------



## 4thKor

Hello, everybody,
Just submitted for club membership with a EVGA GTX-770 Classified I'll be installing the Kraken G-10 on with a Thermaltake 3.0 Extreme. I have spent hours researching the best way to mount this and have seen methods for cutting the stock plates and also removing them and adding aftermarket heat sinks. Which way is preferred? I would rather not do any permanent modification to anything. Has anyone used this combo?
Hope I'm not seeming to be lazy. Just desperate to find the right answer and with over 400 pages to sort through I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.
Thanks!


----------



## masteratarms

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2072101/shim-nzxt-g10-evga-gtx-770-acx-gpu.html

Looks like u need a shim.


----------



## 4thKor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2072101/shim-nzxt-g10-evga-gtx-770-acx-gpu.html
> 
> Looks like u need a shim.


I have a shim and washers and all kinds of stuff on the way. I used a video on the 780, which I understand is very similar.

https://youtu.be/weV0FlahyDo


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah a shim would be the preferred method, you want to keep the midplate for vrm cooling. Man that guy did a nice job of trimming his midplate on that link.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4thKor*
> 
> Hello, everybody,
> Just submitted for club membership with a EVGA GTX-770 Classified I'll be installing the Kraken G-10 on with a Thermaltake 3.0 Extreme. I have spent hours researching the best way to mount this and have seen methods for cutting the stock plates and also removing them and adding aftermarket heat sinks. Which way is preferred? I would rather not do any permanent modification to anything. Has anyone used this combo?
> Hope I'm not seeming to be lazy. Just desperate to find the right answer and with over 400 pages to sort through I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.
> Thanks!


As the others mentioned, use the shim. The existing midplate does well for cooling the VRMs. Kepler responds very well to the cooler temps.


----------



## Tim Drake

What should I do for my G1 Gaming 980? Will the NZXT G10 fit my custom PCB? Should I wait for Corsair Hg10 N980 since it seems to yield greater looks and performance.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> What should I do for my G1 Gaming 980? Will the NZXT G10 fit my custom PCB? Should I wait for Corsair Hg10 N980 since it seems to yield greater looks and performance.


It will still support the same mounting holes, it will just be shifted to the right.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> It will still support the same mounting holes, it will just be shifted to the right.


Will the fan still be over the VRMs? I already have the heatsinks


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> It will still support the same mounting holes, it will just be shifted to the right.


This, thats been one of the things I love about the g-10/CLC coolers mod. Ive had the same brackets and coolers over 3 different gpus so far.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Will the fan still be over the VRMs? I already have the heatsinks


Yes. I posted links to comparative images earlier. Check those out. Plus the fan will be blowing onto the card and the air will push itself away in all directions.


----------



## serave

can someone enlighten me whether this AIO will fit into the G10 or not

any replies would be much appreciated, thanks

pardon the strange engrish


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serave*
> 
> can someone enlighten me whether this AIO will fit into the G10 or not
> 
> any replies would be much appreciated, thanks
> 
> pardon the strange engrish




G10 is designed for AIO's with this block design, with the teeth. That is how it is secured. The one you linked is different.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serave*
> 
> can someone enlighten me whether this AIO will fit into the G10 or not
> 
> any replies would be much appreciated, thanks
> 
> pardon the strange engrish


hit up this guy to get something functional: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501480/the-artisan-store-fury-x-back-plates-now-available


----------



## serave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> G10 is designed for AIO's with this block design, with the teeth. That is how it is secured. The one you linked is different.


i'd take that as a no, thanks by the way
the reason i want to buy the aio i linked is because i lost 2 screws on my H75, causing the radiator looks strange as hell when mounted on the case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> hit up this guy to get something functional: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501480/the-artisan-store-fury-x-back-plates-now-available


would love to, but i live in a 3rd world country (Indonesia) the shipping cost alone would be much more expensive rather than the goods itself lol

guess i'd have to deal with my H75 for the time being


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serave*
> 
> can someone enlighten me whether this AIO will fit into the G10 or not
> 
> any replies would be much appreciated, thanks
> 
> pardon the strange engrish


Have u tried to determine what type of screws you are missing? The diameter and thread pitch define what type of screw it is. Also if u have some of those rubber mounts from a fan that might do the trick.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/231540870930?adgroupid=&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&ff19=0&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serave*
> 
> the reason i want to buy the aio i linked is because i lost 2 screws on my H75,


Did you simply lose the screws or did you lose them via stripping the hole? If you simply lost them, any hardware store would have something that will work. The last ones i bought actually had flat heads and mounted flush which was nice looking. If you stripped them go to a slightly larger self tapping screw then get the appropriate length screws. Just a suggestion. I have even seen people drill all the way through and use a threaded rod cut to length to secure it. Several approaches you can take. Though I do not necessarily recommend the last one lol.


----------



## thebaltar

I'm using G10 and H75 with two Akasa Viper Fans and Gelid Heatsinks.
My temps are little high i think, the results are bellow in Valley Benchmark.
I don't know how much i have to tighten the Kraken G10. I have a little fear to break the gpu. I tight enough to twist a little my card, but the temps not improved any degree.
My temps are normal or i'm doing anything wrong?
My case is NZXT Source 530 and have one 200m fan on the front, two cougar pwm on the floor of case, and 2 fans NZXT on the top.

FX8320 4700MHZ
Gigabyte 290X + H75 + Kraken G10 1150/1550 - 1440P
Valley Pts - 1572
Max - Min Fps - 18.9 / 70.6
CPU Max Temp - 52º
VGA Max Temp - 73º


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> I'm using G10 and H75 with two Akasa Viper Fans and Gelid Heatsinks.
> My temps are little high i think, the results are bellow in Valley Benchmark.
> I don't know how much i have to tighten the Kraken G10. I have a little fear to break the gpu. I tight enough to twist a little my card, but the temps not improved any degree.
> My temps are normal or i'm doing anything wrong?
> My case is NZXT Source 530 and have one 200m fan on the front, two cougar pwm on the floor of case, and 2 fans NZXT on the top.
> 
> FX8320 4700MHZ
> Gigabyte 290X + H75 + Kraken G10 1150/1550 - 1440P
> Valley Pts - 1572
> Max - Min Fps - 18.9 / 70.6
> CPU Max Temp - 52º
> VGA Max Temp - 73º


First question I have is are the fans exhausting the heat from the GPU radiator out of the case or are they set to intake?


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> I'm using G10 and H75 with two Akasa Viper Fans and Gelid Heatsinks.
> My temps are little high i think, the results are bellow in Valley Benchmark.
> I don't know how much i have to tighten the Kraken G10. I have a little fear to break the gpu. I tight enough to twist a little my card, but the temps not improved any degree.
> My temps are normal or i'm doing anything wrong?
> My case is NZXT Source 530 and have one 200m fan on the front, two cougar pwm on the floor of case, and 2 fans NZXT on the top.
> 
> FX8320 4700MHZ
> Gigabyte 290X + H75 + Kraken G10 1150/1550 - 1440P
> Valley Pts - 1572
> Max - Min Fps - 18.9 / 70.6
> CPU Max Temp - 52º
> VGA Max Temp - 73º


The temps look alright for a 290x. What was your pre-G10 temp like under load?

Do not tighten anymore. Fingertight with one-two extra turns using a screwdriver is enough. Also, ensure radiators are not near the GPU. A simple way would be to set them to exhaust.


----------



## thebaltar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> First question I have is are the fans exhausting the heat from the GPU radiator out of the case or are they set to intake?


1 - 200mm NZXT front - Intake
2 - 120mm Cougar PWM on the Floor - Intake
2- 120mm NZXT on the top - Exhaust
1 - 120mm Cougar PWM - on the side of GPU

H80i are in the top with 2 akasa viper in the first slot.
The H75 radiator are in the back of the case with two akasa viper.


----------



## thebaltar

Before Kraken G10, my temps was 94c under 1150/1550 +62mv.
I think i saw some users with temps under load at 56º, 62º.
Thats right?


----------



## Sorphius

It should probably go without saying, but make sure the pump is running at 100%.

Also make sure that the fans on the H75 are both exhausting air OUT of the case, and that they're not pulling against each other (one push, the other pull).


----------



## mr2cam

Anyone here having problems with their cards sagging with the G10? After I put the G10 / H55 combo on my MSI 980ti, the card now wants to sag. Just curious what you guys are using for a solution.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> Before Kraken G10, my temps was 94c under 1150/1550 +62mv.
> I think i saw some users with temps under load at 56º, 62º.
> Thats right?


The ambient conditions may differ between users. For eg, turning on air-conditioning in my summer climate can lead to 5-10 deg difference.

I think you're getting good temps, although not the best. It's about a 20% improvement. For the money, it's worth it.

Of course, one can try to go for better temps. If you don't mind spending, u can try a dual radiator. But the way I see it, I can live with a 290x being 70+ deg.

Maybe you can take a picture of your setup for us to get a better idea.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> Anyone here having problems with their cards sagging with the G10? After I put the G10 / H55 combo on my MSI 980ti, the card now wants to sag. Just curious what you guys are using for a solution.


You could try to reposition the tubing to pull it up a bit or cable tie tubing to another cable.


----------



## bagoshi

Sorry if this has been brought up, but I trying to decide which GTX 980 ti would work best with the g10. From what I've read, it seems that cards with a mid plate are good for vrm cooling. I've already ordered a shim on ebay and the H55 seems to be a choice without spending too much for a marginal gain like with the 240mm rad coolers.

Asus and Gigabyte have no mid plate so you would have to use heatsink for the vrm's

MSI does have a mid plate but there's a warranty stick on the GPU screw.

That narrows it down to EVGA. Unless I'm missing something, I assume EVGA is the card to buy correct?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> Sorry if this has been brought up, but I trying to decide which GTX 980 ti would work best with the g10. From what I've read, it seems that cards with a mid plate are good for vrm cooling. I've already ordered a shim on ebay and the H55 seems to be a choice without spending too much for a marginal gain like with the 240mm rad coolers.
> 
> Asus and Gigabyte have no mid plate so you would have to use heatsink for the vrm's
> 
> MSI does have a mid plate but there's a warranty stick on the GPU screw.
> 
> That narrows it down to EVGA. Unless I'm missing something, I assume EVGA is the card to buy correct?


Both of my ASUS strix cards have had excellent heat sinks mounted to the PCB from the factory that are not a part of the air cooler or a midplate. My GTX 770s did as well. Im sure a lot of others mfgs do as well. Just do your homework before you pick a card.


----------



## thebaltar

I lowered the voltage to +35mv.
At now, is stable in Lords of the Fallen, Project Cars and Valley Benchmark witch max temps 71º after 30 minutes.
Then i put it on the ar conditioning, and the temps after 30 minutes is around 64º, 65º, 66º. I think is little good, but i saw some users with 55º, i dont know what this guys do.
Look out this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McBY9em_JLM
With air cooling, he made it 64º with Sapphire Tri X. I think is fake.
On the other hand, my pc is absolutely, and annoying silent! Absolutely silent!


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> I lowered the voltage to +35mv.
> At now, is stable in Lords of the Fallen, Project Cars and Valley Benchmark witch max temps 71º after 30 minutes.
> Then i put it on the ar conditioning, and the temps after 30 minutes is around 64º, 65º, 66º. I think is little good, but i saw some users with 55º, i dont know what this guys do.
> Look out this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McBY9em_JLM
> With air cooling, he made it 64º with Sapphire Tri X. I think is fake.
> On the other hand, my pc is absolutely, and annoying silent! Absolutely silent!


Ambient temps as well as fan speeds (all case fans and especially your AIO rad fans) can and will drastically effect GPU temps. The fact that you have yours "absolutely silent", tells me you're probably running all your fans at lower speeds, which means you're going to see higher temps. It's a trade-off.









I too, prefer a "silent" running PC, even while under full/heavy loads. That being said, my OC'd 290 hits the mid-high 60's at full load as a result, compared to other people hitting the low-mid 60's max. You can get lower temps, but that requires cranking up the fans, which means more noise.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebaltar*
> 
> I lowered the voltage to +35mv.
> At now, is stable in Lords of the Fallen, Project Cars and Valley Benchmark witch max temps 71º after 30 minutes.
> Then i put it on the ar conditioning, and the temps after 30 minutes is around 64º, 65º, 66º. I think is little good, but i saw some users with 55º, i dont know what this guys do.
> Look out this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McBY9em_JLM
> With air cooling, he made it 64º with Sapphire Tri X. I think is fake.
> On the other hand, my pc is absolutely, and annoying silent! Absolutely silent!


If you were running that GPU overvolted then there is nothing wrong with the numbers your getting at all. overvolting makes temps shoot up fast whether its AMD or NVIDIA, its just physics lol. The quieter cooling compared to the higher end gpus running their air coolers at max is quite nice. I took it a step further and got fan controllers for all the fans in my system and on any game i play for any length of time, i go to the trouble of doing a custom curve to balance out the temp vs noise even more. Witcher 3 my gpus run 48C and 46C respectively. Sniper elite 3 44C and 42C...you get the point. Those number are after hours of playing. the g-10 really is a great mod for the cost and the fact it can follow you through your GPU upgrades. Im sure there will be a limitation to this but currently mine have been on three different pairs of GPUs. I have installed setups for many many others as well.


----------



## watsaname

While I am still waiting for my shim to come in from eBay, I've been contemplating where I should put the radiator in my case. I know that a lot of people tend to put their's on the back of their case, but I can't really do it with out clearance issues. I would be able to use one of the fans for a push or pull, but I wouldn't be able to do the a push&pull config because of the tubing from my 240 rad on my cpu is blocking the way.

The other places I've been thinking about placing it is the front of the case, the floor of the case or the side panel. I have the NZXT Phantom so the front panel has the weird semi-vented front panel that I imagine wouldn't be the best for air flow. Then next would be the floor of the case with vents point downward. I don't know if that would do any damage to the actually AIO pump. Doing a custom water loop for my CPU I read that you want the reservoir above the pump so that the pump would never run dry, damaging it, with AIO doesn't the radiator act sort of like a res because there is no actual res? Lastly, I have the option of throwing it on the side panel. I think this area would have the least problem in terms of cooling ability, but it would make getting into the case a bigger PITA.

What do you guys think? What would probably turn out the best?


----------



## Sorphius

If you absolutely can't fit it in the back, put it on the side. Sure it will make getting into the case a PITA, but it's also the only place you can put it where you won't have limited airflow.


----------



## watsaname

I can put it there if I only use one fan, instead of two. Or I can redo my cpu loop.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *watsaname*
> 
> While I am still waiting for my shim to come in from eBay, I've been contemplating where I should put the radiator in my case. I know that a lot of people tend to put their's on the back of their case, but I can't really do it with out clearance issues. I would be able to use one of the fans for a push or pull, but I wouldn't be able to do the a push&pull config because of the tubing from my 240 rad on my cpu is blocking the way.
> 
> The other places I've been thinking about placing it is the front of the case, the floor of the case or the side panel. I have the NZXT Phantom so the front panel has the weird semi-vented front panel that I imagine wouldn't be the best for air flow. Then next would be the floor of the case with vents point downward. I don't know if that would do any damage to the actually AIO pump. Doing a custom water loop for my CPU I read that you want the reservoir above the pump so that the pump would never run dry, damaging it, with AIO doesn't the radiator act sort of like a res because there is no actual res? Lastly, I have the option of throwing it on the side panel. I think this area would have the least problem in terms of cooling ability, but it would make getting into the case a bigger PITA.
> 
> What do you guys think? What would probably turn out the best?


No issues with the pump

Mounting it on the side isnt as bad as you would think. Both of my gpu radiators are mounted there. the key is to make sure you have good filters on all the intakes so you do not have to go in often and when you do there isnt much work to be done. Even if there is, its 4 simple screws.

If you really want to do push pull, you can mount one fan on the outside of the case. Granted im not familiar with your case but it will probably work. All my AIO/CLCs are done this way. If you take the time and get a nice grill for it you can make it look nice enough. Up to you whether that would bother you. I actually like mine setup that way. However, I am not running push/pull on any of the radiators. Has not been necessary and really doesnt add that much more flow. I have no room to run fans in push pull either. So consider that as well. The biggest thing in my opinion, and I know I keep repeating myself, is simply to mount the gpu cooler with the fans exhausting.


----------



## smongklong

Team,

I need help. I have been working tirelessly to install a Corsair H100i GTX to an EVGA 780 Ti card using the Corsair HG10 n780 bracket. I had 2 brackets replaced already and this is the issue.

The short standoffs that come with the HG10 are so weak that when you screw them (albeit using fingers only) onto the bracket and attach the hydro series cooler there, the small protruding screw that attaches on the bracket breaks. This leaves one or in my case two of the corners of your hydro series cooler unscrewed- making it useless.

I did two RMAs already and I'm done.

Can you use the Kraken G10 with the Corsair H100i GTX? I didn't see it in the compatibility list.

(i know this whole post can be summed up on that one sentence but sharing my experience to those who want to venture into the same thing)

Thanks,
Smongklong


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smongklong*
> 
> Team,
> 
> I need help. I have been working tirelessly to install a Corsair H100i GTX to an EVGA 780 Ti card using the Corsair HG10 n780 bracket. I had 2 brackets replaced already and this is the issue.
> 
> The short standoffs that come with the HG10 are so weak that when you screw them (albeit using fingers only) onto the bracket and attach the hydro series cooler there, the small protruding screw that attaches on the bracket breaks. This leaves one or in my case two of the corners of your hydro series cooler unscrewed- making it useless.
> 
> I did two RMAs already and I'm done.
> 
> Can you use the Kraken G10 with the Corsair H100i GTX? I didn't see it in the compatibility list.
> 
> (i know this whole post can be summed up on that one sentence but sharing my experience to those who want to venture into the same thing)
> 
> Thanks,
> Smongklong


No it has to have the asetek mounting design to work with the G-10 im afraid.


----------



## watsaname

I guess I will just throw it in the back of my case with one fan, until I can redo my cpu loop. I ended up finding a bunch of tubing while looking for fan grills.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> No it has to have the asetek mounting design to work with the G-10 im afraid.


the h100i gtx looks like it has the asetek teeth underneath the pumptop.

http://www.corsair.com/en/blog/2015/march/h100i_gtx_how_to

it might work, im not sure if id risk it until you can get some proof that you could mount the bracket.


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah you can see it in this pic, not sure about mounting on the G10.

As long as you can remove the pictured bracket I would say it should work.


----------



## KickAssCop

Supported coolers. The H100i is not a supported cooler.

NZXT : Kraken X61, Kraken X41, Kraken X31, Kraken X60, Kraken X40
Corsair : H105, H110, H90, H75, H55 , H50 (CW-9060006-WW only)
Antec : KUHLER H2O 920V4, KUHLER H2O 620V4, KUHLER H2O 920, KUHLER H2O 620
Thermaltake : Water 3.0 Extreme, Water 3.0 Pro, Water 3.0 Performer, Water 2.0 Extreme, Water 2.0 Pro, Water 2.0 Performer
Zalman : LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310


----------



## falcon26

How much of a drop in temperature are people getting on a GTX 980 Ti from a stock cooler like on the msi 980 Ti gaming 6g


----------



## watsaname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah you can see it in this pic, not sure about mounting on the G10.
> 
> As long as you can remove the pictured bracket I would say it should work.


It looks like it was the "teeth" to latch onto the G10, but I don't know if that square block on top will get in the way of it actually working or not


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *watsaname*
> 
> It looks like it was the "teeth" to latch onto the G10, but I don't know if that square block on top will get in the way of it actually working or not


That does "appear" to be the Asetek pattern. The mounting plate should be able to be removed. Most of the time they have to be assembled with the mounting plate that matches your platform. This """"""""""Might"""""""""" work.


----------



## Tim Drake

Anybody watercooled a 980 reference and kept the faceplate on? I would like to see what it looks like


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Anybody watercooled a 980 reference and kept the faceplate on? I would like to see what it looks like


Got a pic of it handy?


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Got a pic of it handy?


I'm the one asking for a pic.......................................


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I'm the one asking for a pic.......................................


Im asking for a pic of the gpu as it is now as im not familiar with that version.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im asking for a pic of the gpu as it is now as im not familiar with that version.


You're not familair with the reference model? I don't have it ATM as I traded it and I am in the process of getting it back.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> You're not familair with the reference model? I don't have it ATM as I traded it and I am in the process of getting it back.


The 970 did not have a reference model when it was released. I assumed the 980 was the same but the answer is no, I am not familiar with the reference 980. Im sure its exactly what I think it is, still I would like to see a pic if available if not, no big deal.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The 970 did not have a reference model when it was released. I assumed the 980 was the same but the answer is no, I am not familiar with the reference 980. Im sure its exactly what I think it is, still I would like to see a pic if available if not, no big deal.


Card: http://configurator.ekwb.com/upload/pictures/ASUS-GTX980-4GD5-GeForce-GTX-980-4GB-GDDR5-(90YV07H0-U0NA00)_33507.jpg
Board: http://configurator.ekwb.com/upload/pictures/gtx980_pcb_33446.jpg

I never realized there wasn't a reference 970... even though Nvidia makes a model themselves. Odd.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Anybody watercooled a 980 reference and kept the faceplate on? I would like to see what it looks like


You have to cut the reference cooler so the tubes can come out and if you use the G10 it won't fit at all because of how it hangs.

Cutting up the reference cooler will void your warranty. You can probably buy one for 50 or less from ebay.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Card: http://configurator.ekwb.com/upload/pictures/ASUS-GTX980-4GD5-GeForce-GTX-980-4GB-GDDR5-(90YV07H0-U0NA00)_33507.jpg
> Board: http://configurator.ekwb.com/upload/pictures/gtx980_pcb_33446.jpg
> 
> I never realized there wasn't a reference 970... even though Nvidia makes a model themselves. Odd.
> You have to cut the reference cooler so the tubes can come out and if you use the G10 it won't fit at all because of how it hangs.
> 
> Cutting up the reference cooler will void your warranty. You can probably buy one for 50 or less from ebay.


I think they eventually made one for the 970 though it was many months after the official release. Its probably the only gpu i personally remember coming out through vendor designs long before the reference version was released. Im really not sure if they did the 980 that way as well.

Yeah if you cut on it, chances of warranty kind of go out the door







But they are cheap if you can find them on ebay.


----------



## thebaltar

My temps with 290x come to reach around 75º runninng at 1150/1550. So i disassembly Kraken G10 and put back my thermal paste MX4.
Now my temps are 62º average and 66º max.
Finally!


----------



## mr2cam

So I changed up my setup just a little, before I was running my G10 / H55 with one corsair SP120 as an exhaust fan. I bought a couple of Noctua NF-F12 fans and changed it to a push / pull setup. I wasn't expecting any gains except for less noise, and not only is it silent, I experienced a drop in temps by 5c. Max temps so far are 45c and that was after running valley at 1440p for over an hour with everything maxed out. I love this h55 / G10 setup!!!!


----------



## falcon26

I got the H55 and G10 today. I will probably install it Saturday. So will see how that goes


----------



## watsaname

Finished installing the G10 on my 980TI and it seems to work fine. I ended up throwing it on the back of my case with just one fan for right now. I originally put the pump on my fan controller to see if that worked, but the temperature was steadily going up 1c every ~5 seconds. I cut it off when it started to reach the 70c area. Scratching my head I figured that maybe the fan controller wasn't supply enough voltage and threw it on my mobo fan header instead because for some reason I don't have a single 3-pin to molex connector in the whole house. That seems to have stopped the slow and steady rise in temperature and seems to cap around 65c or so. Haven't tested long enough to see if it would go higher or not.

All at +215 Core and +500 Memory with 110% Power limit BTW.


----------



## masteratarms

|f u buy another 120mm either the Silverstone FQ-121 (122or123) or Noctua NF F12 u will get a 4 to 3 pin or u could just buy one from ebay. The pump stay at 12v no question, I've got a special cable which has a RPM sence lead which I plug into the mobo.


----------



## falcon26

Wait so your saying that your load temp while gaming was 65C? That doesn't seem very good. The stock cooler on my MSI 980 TI loads at about 65C also after 2-3 hours of gaming and is quiet. I thought the G10 was supposed to bring these load temps way way down?


----------



## watsaname

Yes, I guess it just depends on where you live and what cooler you have then. My acx cooler gave me something like ~75 on load. I will try some more testing, maybe repast. e


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Wait so your saying that your load temp while gaming was 65C? That doesn't seem very good. The stock cooler on my MSI 980 TI loads at about 65C also after 2-3 hours of gaming and is quiet. I thought the G10 was supposed to bring these load temps way way down?


There are a lot of things that play into what temps you see. Are you overclocking, what game are you playing, how did you set up the fans in your case, your case, ambient temps, SLI no SLI, what thermal paste and the most common issue, not seated right. Most of the time they are not seated quite correctly. The thermal pastes can make up for a certain amount of the bad install but not all of it. Also,as others are seeing, the proper fan can make a significant difference too. If you were getting 65C after 2-3 hours of gaming on the factory air cooler with your 980ti then your doing something golden. I will agree that he should be seeing temps lower than 65C but I am not familiar with his entire setup. 65C is hardly bad. I tested my 980s before i swapped everything over and was getting in the mid to upper 70s gaming before my installation. So whatever your doing, keep doing it


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Wait so your saying that your load temp while gaming was 65C? That doesn't seem very good. The stock cooler on my MSI 980 TI loads at about 65C also after 2-3 hours of gaming and is quiet. I thought the G10 was supposed to bring these load temps way way down?


Here is what my temps look like on the G10 / H55 with a push / pull setup, this is Heaven 8xaa / ultra, I let it sit and loop for about half an hour while I played a game of madden 16.


----------



## 4thKor

Thought I'd post this. I had to install a 2" spacer I fabbed from 24ga. sheet metal and painted black to get my rad to bolt in Rosewill Stryker M case). Also running a 120mm to 92mm fan adapter for the card.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4thKor*
> 
> Thought I'd post this. I had to install a 2" spacer I fabbed from 24ga. sheet metal and painted black to get my rad to bolt in Rosewill Stryker M case). Also running a 120mm to 92mm fan adapter for the card.


Very clean and nice solution to the problem you faced. Thats the kind of stuff I enjoy seeing. Im good at making solutions but not at making them look pretty


----------



## 4thKor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Very clean and nice solution to the problem you faced. Thats the kind of stuff I enjoy seeing. Im good at making solutions but not at making them look pretty


This is an EVGA GTX-770 Classified card with a modified BIOS. I'm Folding on this thing 24/7 in Team Competition. At 1280mhz the temps never go over 50c. I'm the second fastest in Wildcard. Don't think my chip can get to 1332mhz, which is what the top guy is running. Unless of course you guys have any suggestions or tweeks I'm not aware of?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4thKor*
> 
> This is an EVGA GTX-770 Classified card with a modified BIOS. I'm Folding on this thing 24/7 in Team Competition. At 1280mhz the temps never go over 50c. I'm the second fastest in Wildcard. Don't think my chip can get to 1332mhz, which is what the top guy is running. Unless of course you guys have any suggestions or tweeks I'm not aware of?


I ran a pair of ASUS Direct CUII 770s. With the tweak software i just maxed them out the settings in the software and mine ran just under 1400 core. One was 1397 and the other was 1382 IIRC. You may have simply lost the silicon lottery. Now granted I wasnt folding. I was gaming with anything and everything in surround plus 1 and it survived the usual stuff like heaven etc. without throwing any errors. I only had errors when i started creeping up the memory clocks. I had to leave them around +200 as i recall. They were running G-10s and Corsair H-90s with temps of 49C and 47C respectively.


----------



## falcon26

Yeah I should have been more specific. I am playing BF4 at 1440P for 2-3 hours on everything set to high and seeing my load temp about 65-66 degrees. This is on the stock cooler. What is strange is my idle temp is 58-60 degrees. So my load temp is only going up by like 8-10 degrees which seems very low....


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Yeah I should have been more specific. I am playing BF4 at 1440P for 2-3 hours on everything set to high and seeing my load temp about 65-66 degrees. This is on the stock cooler. What is strange is my idle temp is 58-60 degrees. So my load temp is only going up by like 8-10 degrees which seems very low....


Does your card throttle all the way down at idle?


----------



## falcon26

My graphics are at 595mhz and memory at 3505mhz this is at idle. I think in Windows 8 it was lower at idle. Maybe the clock are not going down in Windows 10?


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> My graphics are at 595mhz and memory at 3505mhz this is at idle. I think in Windows 8 it was lower at idle. Maybe the clock are not going down in Windows 10?


You are the 2nd person I have heard of with windows 10 that has this issue, I'm running windows 7 and at idle my clocks stay at 135mhz on the core and 405mhz (810) on the memory. Might look into why that is, I am going to wait a while before I upgrade to windows 10.


----------



## Ultisym

Seems like more and more is coming up short on windows 10 every day. I ran it on a laptop during beta, but i wont be fooling with it otherwise for some time I think.


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Seems like more and more is coming up short on windows 10 every day. I ran it on a laptop during beta, but i wont be fooling with it otherwise for some time I think.


I put windows 10 on my alienware M17x and got 5 bluescreens within 10 minutes.. Went back to windows 7.


----------



## watsaname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> There are a lot of things that play into what temps you see. Are you overclocking, what game are you playing, how did you set up the fans in your case, your case, ambient temps, SLI no SLI, what thermal paste and the most common issue, not seated right. Most of the time they are not seated quite correctly. The thermal pastes can make up for a certain amount of the bad install but not all of it. Also,as others are seeing, the proper fan can make a significant difference too. If you were getting 65C after 2-3 hours of gaming on the factory air cooler with your 980ti then your doing something golden. I will agree that he should be seeing temps lower than 65C but I am not familiar with his entire setup. 65C is hardly bad. I tested my 980s before i swapped everything over and was getting in the mid to upper 70s gaming before my installation. So whatever your doing, keep doing it


Yeah it definitely seems to be a problem on my end definitely. Maybe I didn't use enough thermal paste? I don't know. I know the term "less is more" but after watching a couple videos of people installing the g10 then showing some gameplay it seems like I generally use less thermal paste than them, but I guess they could also be in cooler temps then me. IDK...


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *watsaname*
> 
> Yeah it definitely seems to be a problem on my end definitely. Maybe I didn't use enough thermal paste? I don't know. I know the term "less is more" but after watching a couple videos of people installing the g10 then showing some gameplay it seems like I generally use less thermal paste than them, but I guess they could also be in cooler temps then me. IDK...


Just to chime in, I agree something seems a little off. 65 is perfectly safe so there's no cause for concern, but my 980ti only gets up to around 48 after playing Project Cars for 3 hours in a room with an ambient temp around 25c. Would definitely be worth repasting and checking to make sure you've got all the screws tightened properly. FWIW, I do mine finger-tight and then one turn of a screwdriver. Also using a pea-sized glob of GELID GC-Extreme.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *watsaname*
> 
> Yeah it definitely seems to be a problem on my end definitely. Maybe I didn't use enough thermal paste? I don't know. I know the term "less is more" but after watching a couple videos of people installing the g10 then showing some gameplay it seems like I generally use less thermal paste than them, but I guess they could also be in cooler temps then me. IDK...


Yeah its not difficult for anyone to understand why no thermal paste, to thin of a layer or too thick of a layer of thermal paste would be bad. But in practice its not easy to get it perfect. The tension of the mounts on a lot of cpu coolers can vary from cooler to cooler even in the same batch. The potential for error installing the coolers using a setup like the G-10 uses, where each corner must be individually tightened, makes it even more tricky and a bigger pain. Ultimately the only way to know if you got it right is to take it back off after several cycles and look at the pattern. The only way to know if you got it good enough without taking it back apart is to check your temperatures and verify that they are within the range of whats considered acceptable by comparing it to others doing the same thing with a similar product.

Ive used all the various methods over the years. Fortunately, most of the thermal pastes and most of the best products now available are not conductive. A little generous isnt a big deal IMO If you dont go nuts unless you REALLY need that last 1 or 2C. So ultimately, its whatever works for you. The biggest mistake i see people making with this type of cooler mounting system is over tightening one corner or one side. Besides failure to seat it, some permanently bend the PCB by tightening them to a ridiculous point.

Anyway, the point of my babbling was to suggest you reseat the cooler, LOL.


----------



## KickAssCop

I want to report that I killed one of my classifieds whilst changing the cooler on the card back to stock cooling since the second kraken wasn't getting proper airflow in my case.
Returned the card and purchased another classified so will keep one classified (top) on the kraken and second on stock cooling. If I can hit 1506/8200 I would call it a day and stop messing with the over clocking lol.


----------



## oldiron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> I want to report that I killed one of my classifieds whilst changing the cooler on the card back to stock cooling since the second kraken wasn't getting proper airflow in my case.
> Returned the card and purchased another classified so will keep one classified (top) on the kraken and second on stock cooling. If I can hit 1506/8200 I would call it a day and stop messing with the over clocking lol.


Hey KAC, what was your issue with getting air to second card? I would have thought the side fan would be enough. Did you try adding a fan to cure or just elect too go back to stock. I have same case and just curious if I will have same issue or similar and want to look out for it.


----------



## oldiron

Thought I'd share where I am at so far. waiting on the alphaacool backplates now, My top G10 rad will go in drive bays exhausting out in push/pull. Lower G10 rad will go in custom acrylic PSU cover exhausting out side window in push borrowing from UT's idea. I was planning on full window mod and losing the side fan, is why I asked KAC. Notice in pic 2 the hack I used that started this all. That #2 card was my #1 card until the fan failed. It has a cpu fan zip tied to the card now connected to the mobo until I ca install the g10s.


----------



## falcon26

So running Windows 8 my 980 ti down clocks just fine. My idle temp is 48-52 load about 65. In windows 10 its idle at 58-60 and loads about 65. So in windows 10 the nvidia driver is not down clocking the gpu when idle, or at least not all the way. In general I seem to still prefer windows 8 over 10....maybe I'll wait for windows 10.1 before going back to it..


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldiron*
> 
> Hey KAC, what was your issue with getting air to second card? I would have thought the side fan would be enough. Did you try adding a fan to cure or just elect too go back to stock. I have same case and just curious if I will have same issue or similar and want to look out for it.




My issue was that even with both radiators exhausting in different directions (that is, one exhausting air outside from the back and the other exhausting air from the front drive bays, my card exhausting from front drive bays was getting exceptionally hot (top card in picture) at around 70 C. So, I wanted to go back to my original setup with 1 NZXT and 1 card using Classified ACX cooler which is where, somehow by mistake, I killed my classified. I have a new one on the way and then, my case will look again something like this picture.



This setup allowed my top card to run MAX at 55 C (during heavy bench, during gaming more like 50 C) and bottom card to max out around 68 C w/ a slightly noisier fan curve.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> 
> 
> My issue was that even with both radiators exhausting in different directions (that is, one exhausting air outside from the back and the other exhausting air from the front drive bays, my card exhausting from front drive bays was getting exceptionally hot (top card in picture) at around 70 C. So, I wanted to go back to my original setup with 1 NZXT and 1 card using Classified ACX cooler which is where, somehow by mistake, I killed my classified. I have a new one on the way and then, my case will look again something like this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> This setup allowed my top card to run MAX at 55 C (during heavy bench, during gaming more like 50 C) and bottom card to max out around 68 C w/ a slightly noisier fan curve.


You have to work with what you have. It you dont have a place for both to exhaust appropriately then your solution is viable with with maxwell IMO. The cooler temps do not make anywhere near the performance difference on maxwell as they do with even Kepler.


----------



## trento

for me, i got the best temps setting the radiators as intake.

Here's a pic of my setup. R9 280. Max temps are about 55 deg for the G10, and 70 deg for the XFX under load for Crysis 3.

Putting the XFX on top and setting as the primary card produced the highest temp for XFX (79 deg).

Radiator placement is most crucial. As exhaust i could see about 60 deg.

Push pull set up produced the best results.

Noctua fans reduced temps slightly. But they look terrible so I went with the CM Silencios.

I'm still waiting for my longer CF bridge to put the GPU's further apart. Will likely not go for a dual G10 setup as I can't bear to change the XFX cooler. It looks great and works well.


----------



## eyecrave

Will my msi 980 ti gaming get damaged if i remove the foam from the backplate? The screws i think will be too short with the foam on so was wondering if i should buy screws before attempting to install.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eyecrave*
> 
> Will my msi 980 ti gaming get damaged if i remove the foam from the backplate? The screws i think will be too short with the foam on so was wondering if i should buy screws before attempting to install.


I'm wondering too since to install a backplate, the foam needs to be gone or smaller.


----------



## Ultisym

If the card already has a back plate, you do not even have to install the nzxt back plate. You can of course, but you do not have to. Assuming the screw head is large enough not to pull through the hole of course. Anyway, even if you do decide to use the nzxt plate on top of an existing plate, the foam is worthless since the back plate that came with the gpu is isolated from the PCB any way. Ive never used NZXTs backplate on any of the gpus ive used it on so far. They had DIRECT CUII back plates.


----------



## KickAssCop

Yes, you have to remove the foam. For acx coolers you also need custom 30mm screws. For all others the screw provided by NZXT should be find.


----------



## thebaltar

I make this video, just to show my "new" temps.








I put english subtitles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zPsnTneJM4


----------



## watsaname

I just got around to re-pasting my card. I used a "X" pattern on the gpu and copper shim with some of the Gelid Extreme. My temps went down to 55c when running Unigine Heaven for 30 minutes so far. I am glad I tried re-pasting again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Yes, you have to remove the foam. For acx coolers you also need custom 30mm screws. For all others the screw provided by NZXT should be find.


When you are talking about the ACX cooler requiring custom 30mm screws are you talking about the version that has the backplate on? I have the ACX card without the backplate and I am able to get my G10 on just fine with just the stock mounting hardware.


----------



## 4thKor

If you use these washers (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E3Q7H8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00) you can install the G10 on a card with a back plate and eliminate the G10 back plate entirely. These are large enough to let the stock bolts pull on the back plate instead of the card and the bolts fit like a dream! I was able to snug the bolts pretty tight without worrying about warping my card. I also used a 2mm shim between the GPU and cooler to eliminate having to cut my cooling plate. My card is a EVGA 770 Classified.


----------



## watsaname

Oh, I see that is cool. Yeah the NZXT doesn't look all that great tbh.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4thKor*
> 
> If you use these washers (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E3Q7H8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00) you can install the G10 on a card with a back plate and eliminate the G10 back plate entirely. These are large enough to let the stock bolts pull on the back plate instead of the card and the bolts fit like a dream! I was able to snug the bolts pretty tight without worrying about warping my card. I also used a 2mm shim between the GPU and cooler to eliminate having to cut my cooling plate. My card is a EVGA 770 Classified.


Are you able to post some pictures?


----------



## Someone09

Quick question to the other G10 + 980Ti users.
How far are you guys pushing your voltages for day to day usage?


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Quick question to the other G10 + 980Ti users.
> How far are you guys pushing your voltages for day to day usage?


Running 980ti g1 with g10 stock voltages running 1480/2000mhz

max temp is 47 degrees


----------



## Someone09

I am currently on the MaxAir BIOS (meaning @ 1.255V) at 1440MHz.
Just not sure how save it would be to use the G10 with one of the other BIOS that go to 1.27V.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> I am currently on the MaxAir BIOS (meaning @ 1.255V) at 1440MHz.
> Just not sure how save it would be to use the G10 with one of the other BIOS that go to 1.27V.


No less safe than with the stock cooler.


----------



## Someone09

Exactly my point. As far as I understand it the 1,25+V BIOS shouldn´t be used on air at all.
Not completely sure if the G10 should be considered as watercooling in that regard since the VRMs are still being aircooled.

(Damn it, NVidia! Give us a temp sensor on the VRMs already!)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> (Damn it, NVidia! Give us a temp sensor on the VRMs already!)


This is where a fan controller comes in handy, a lot of them come with sensors you can mount where you want. Has definitely come in handy on my junk.


----------



## watsaname

Yup gotta keep your junk at a cool 25c at all times. Don't want to be ruining that precious baby batter. On a serious note, I wasn't even thinking about a fan controller with thermal probes on it. I might invest in one. Got any recommendations on a solid one? I was looking at lamptron, but they see a little pricey.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *watsaname*
> 
> Yup gotta keep your junk at a cool 25c at all times. Don't want to be ruining that precious baby batter. On a serious note, I wasn't even thinking about a fan controller with thermal probes on it. I might invest in one. Got any recommendations on a solid one? I was looking at lamptron, but they see a little pricey.


There are a lot of controllers out there to choose from. Lamptron has a pretty good rep as far as I know. What are you wanting to spend?

I can only really say anything about the ones ive had that worked well for me. The Nzxt isnt bad (~$34). I had the sentry 2 version and it worked fine. I didnt care for its looks though. The Sentry 3 looks better to me. Has 15 watts per fan channel and 5 channels.
http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-5-4-Inch-Controller-Cooling-AC-SEN-3-B1/dp/B00KJGYLNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441223591&sr=8-1&keywords=pc+fan+controller

Im running a pair of Aerocool X-Vision ($50) controllers now and I like them a lot. They are 8 watts per fan channel with 5 channels.
http://www.amazon.com/Aerocool-Fan-Temperature-Controller-X-Vision/dp/B00562QETS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441224122&sr=8-1&keywords=aerocool+x+vision+controller


----------



## Bahamuth

Hi all,
i wanna buy a kraken g10 for my msi gtx970 but what is better?
H55 or X41? My case is a aerocool DS CUBE i can use a 120 or 140 AIO.


----------



## masteratarms

I've heard about the "diminishing returns" you get from going bigger than 120. I've heard the biggest difference between radiator sizes is at full load. Also Jay'stwocents says he uses alot of radiator space so he can run his fans quiet.

My experience is that I tried putting 200mm fans on a 240mm rad and the fan adapter wouldn't allow you to run either 200mm side by side with another 200mm or a 120mm. The best config I found was push pull (with 4 fans).

I'd go with a 140mm aio if u have the option, maybe a couple of Noctua industrial fans:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lph9yVrpqqw

Either 2000 or 3000rpm.


----------



## KickAssCop

In my experience the corsair aio cools better than the NZXT models. So I would recommend either a h55 or h90. Get your own fans if required.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bahamuth*
> 
> Hi all,
> i wanna buy a kraken g10 for my msi gtx970 but what is better?
> H55 or X41? My case is a aerocool DS CUBE i can use a 120 or 140 AIO.


H55 is more than enough and run it with two high SP fans of your choice in push-pull. (The fan that comes with the H55 is meh).


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> I've heard about the "diminishing returns" you get from going bigger than 120. I've heard the biggest difference between radiator sizes is at full load. Also Jay'stwocents says he uses alot of radiator space so he can run his fans quiet.
> 
> My experience is that I tried putting 200mm fans on a 240mm rad and the fan adapter wouldn't allow you to run either 200mm side by side with another 200mm or a 120mm. The best config I found was push pull (with 4 fans).
> 
> I'd go with a 140mm aio if u have the option, maybe a couple of Noctua industrial fans:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lph9yVrpqqw
> 
> Either 2000 or 3000rpm.


Yeah when it comes to running fans with rads, you need to make sure the fans you use match the width of the rad. (120mm fans on 120 or 240mm rads, etc.) Otherwise, if there's any overlap or gaps, the air takes the path of least resistance and goes around instead of through the rad, thus, you loose significant cooling effect. You need to essentially force the air to have no other path but to go through the rad.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Really quick guys. When I get my H55+ G10,where should I mount it? And as intake or exhaust? I'm scared that having it exhaust in the rear will collect hot air from my cpu. Or will all my 3 140mm exhaust top fans clear that hot air out? I currently have

3X 140mm top exhaust
1X 120mm rear exhaust

2X 140mm front intake
2X 120mm bottom intake.










Also, do I remove the foam on the G10 bracket that goes behind the msi gtx 980 ti GPU because of the backplate? Or will there be enough threads with it on?


----------



## bagoshi

I'm getting really high temps when overclocking the 980 ti. At 1400mhz I'm getting 65c and 1500mhz its 75c. The g10 is hooked up to a h55 and is mounted as push out front bottom of my define r5. Also, I have 2 front intakes. The area around the radiator is HOT so I assume that I have good mount on the card and all the heat is getting transferred to radiator. That leads me to think the h55 can't handle the overclock, but everyone says its more than enough. Am I missing something here?


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> I'm getting really high temps when overclocking the 980 ti. At 1400mhz I'm getting 65c and 1500mhz its 75c. The g10 is hooked up to a h55 and is mounted as push out front bottom of my define r5. Also, I have 2 front intakes. The area around the radiator is HOT so I assume that I have good mount on the card and all the heat is getting transferred to radiator. That leads me to think the h55 can't handle the overclock, but everyone says its more than enough. Am I missing something here?


You're sure the pump is getting a full 100 power?


----------



## bagoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> You're sure the pump is getting a full 100 power?


Yes,its connected to the mobo and fan control is disabled. Does mounting the rad above or below the pump matter? Since there is a certain amount air the line, I was wondering if you get better flow with the rad mounted higher than the pump.

Thanks for the reply btw.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> I'm getting really high temps when overclocking the 980 ti. At 1400mhz I'm getting 65c and 1500mhz its 75c. The g10 is hooked up to a h55 and is mounted as push out front bottom of my define r5. Also, I have 2 front intakes. The area around the radiator is HOT so I assume that I have good mount on the card and all the heat is getting transferred to radiator. That leads me to think the h55 can't handle the overclock, but everyone says its more than enough. Am I missing something here?


Well, 75C is in fact more than good enough for 1500 core.

Once you start going for large over clocks that come with more voltage you have to put more thought and money into the cooling system and air circuit. But 75C at 1500 core isnt bad at all. But it of course can be improved on. Larger coolers will help, better fans, more air to move(Case) start making a bigger difference when your fighting about a few C. What fan are you running on the 980 ti? the radiator? Did you put on a different TIM?


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> I'm getting really high temps when overclocking the 980 ti. At 1400mhz I'm getting 65c and 1500mhz its 75c. The g10 is hooked up to a h55 and is mounted as push out front bottom of my define r5. Also, I have 2 front intakes. The area around the radiator is HOT so I assume that I have good mount on the card and all the heat is getting transferred to radiator. That leads me to think the h55 can't handle the overclock, but everyone says its more than enough. Am I missing something here?


What kind of idle temps are you seeing?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> ]Really quick guys. When I get my H55+ G10,where should I mount it? And as intake or exhaust? I'm scared that having it exhaust in the rear will collect hot air from my cpu. Or will all my 3 140mm exhaust top fans clear that hot air out? I currently have
> 
> 3X 140mm top exhaust
> 1X 120mm rear exhaust
> 
> 2X 140mm front intake
> 2X 120mm bottom intake.
> 
> Also, do I remove the foam on the G10 bracket that goes behind the msi gtx 980 ti GPU because of the backplate? Or will there be enough threads with it on?


Ideally, you want the fans exhausting the heat from the GPU from the case. It is going to pull A LOT of heat that I wouldnt want inside my case.I would start in this configuration and change if necessary if it were me. Do you have the fans pulling cool air intake through your CPU radiator?

As for the NZXT back plate, if your GPU already has a back plate, you can remove the foam from the nzxt plate.


----------



## bagoshi

I don't think 75c is that bad too, but man it's hot around the rad. I'm afraid the fan filter will start melting. I'm running the stock fans that came with the h55 and g10. Waiting for the Phanteks high static fan to come in and looking for a better 92mm that is not ugly Noctua. I think I'll try to remount it in the meantime.

My idle temps are 34c.


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> I don't think 75c is that bad too, but man it's hot around the rad. I'm afraid the fan filter will start melting. I'm running the stock fans that came with the h55 and g10. Waiting for the Phanteks high static fan to come in and looking for a better 92mm that is not ugly Noctua. I think I'll try to remount it in the meantime.
> 
> My idle temps are 34c.


Willing to bet that the stock fan that came with your H55 isn't pushing enough air through, thinking that might be your problem, wait until you get your static pressure fans and see if it makes a huge difference. I run 2 noctua NF-F12 on the radiator, in a push pull config with them exhausting the air out the back of my cooler master HAF 932 case, max temp is 49c after looping heaven extreme at 1440p for a few hours. You should be in the same ballpark with a couple of SP fans also.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Exactly my point. As far as I understand it the 1,25+V BIOS shouldn´t be used on air at all.
> Not completely sure if the G10 should be considered as watercooling in that regard since the VRMs are still being aircooled.
> 
> (Damn it, NVidia! Give us a temp sensor on the VRMs already!)


Up to and including 1.3v is safe for air as long as you aren't in the eighties.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bahamuth*
> 
> Hi all,
> i wanna buy a kraken g10 for my msi gtx970 but what is better?
> H55 or X41? My case is a aerocool DS CUBE i can use a 120 or 140 AIO.


You should upgrade your case.

I went from DS cube to air 540 and my GPU temp dropped 10-15c

That case sucks ass


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> I don't think 75c is that bad too, but man it's hot around the rad. I'm afraid the fan filter will start melting. I'm running the stock fans that came with the h55 and g10. Waiting for the Phanteks high static fan to come in and looking for a better 92mm that is not ugly Noctua. I think I'll try to remount it in the meantime.
> 
> My idle temps are 34c.


your idle temps are probably a little high (they are about what i get on my 980Ti Super Jetstream on air), but i wouldnt expect to get them much lower depending on ambient temps (a major factor).

you will need significantly better fans to provide enough cooling. high SP fans are needed for this sort of tdp. i use 1x 120 iPPC Noctua 2000rpm (@950-1000) on my H55 on my 970 and it does a fantastic job. i would also use your pump on a molex connector to absolutely ensure its at 100% (fan control may still be working at the bios level even if youve disabled - either set to full speed in bios or use molex).


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> I don't think 75c is that bad too, but man it's hot around the rad. I'm afraid the fan filter will start melting. I'm running the stock fans that came with the h55 and g10. Waiting for the Phanteks high static fan to come in and looking for a better 92mm that is not ugly Noctua. I think I'll try to remount it in the meantime.
> 
> My idle temps are 34c.


75c for something that can be cooled the same on custom air coolers?

That sucks.

Try exhausting in your case and maxing out radiator fans and system fans to see if its an airflow / fan problem


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> 75c for something that can be cooled the same on custom air coolers?
> 
> That sucks.
> 
> Try exhausting in your case and maxing out radiator fans and system fans to see if its an airflow / fan problem


He would easily overcome the air cooler on the gpu with 1500Core + voltage. I was 83C with air coolers at 1400 on a 980.


----------



## Bahamuth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> You should upgrade your case.
> 
> I went from DS cube to air 540 and my GPU temp dropped 10-15c
> 
> That case sucks ass


From a micro-atx to a normal atx?







.
I like micro-atx form factor







is possible sli in small case . I know the problem of temp.

N.B. Today will arrive my kraken x41







.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ideally, you want the fans exhausting the heat from the GPU from the case. It is going to pull A LOT of heat that I wouldnt want inside my case.I would start in this configuration and change if necessary if it were me. Do you have the fans pulling cool air intake through your CPU radiator?
> 
> As for the NZXT back plate, if your GPU already has a back plate, you can remove the foam from the nzxt plate.


Will the heat from my cpu go through the radiator and mess it up? Or will the 3 exhaust fans above take care of that?


----------



## craftio

All my parts to mod the Kraken g10 and X31 AIO to my EVGA Classfied 980ti have almost arrived 

A quick question.

I am considering adding aluminum heatsinks to the memory/mosfet cooling plate

These heatsinks

Here is a pic of the EVGA Classfied 980ti

Stock cooler removed showing the memory/mosfet cooling plate



memory/mosfet cooling plate removed to show PCB



Am i correct to place the aluminum heatsinks at the areas highlighted in RED to cool the VRAMs and VRMs?



Comments/Inputs appreciated


----------



## KickAssCop

I didn't remove the mid plate and just kept the current plate. It allows for the fan to spread air evenly across the plate rather than blocking air flow due to sinks.
You will need a shim. I used the PS3 YLoD shim kit on my classified. Is working fantastic.

I linked all parts needed for this mod earlier in the thread including screws etc.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Up to and including 1.3v is safe for air as long as you aren't in the eighties.


Thanks.
I have yet to hit the 60°C so I still have quite some headroom temperature wise. Might try another BIOS to overvolt even further then.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craftio*
> 
> Am i correct to place the aluminum heatsinks at the areas highlighted in RED to cool the VRAMs and VRMs?


Yup. Although putting heatsinks probably won´t do much. But since you are on it anyway...


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bahamuth*
> 
> From a micro-atx to a normal atx?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I like micro-atx form factor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is possible sli in small case . I know the problem of temp.
> 
> N.B. Today will arrive my kraken x41
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I would recommend the Corsair Air 240.

Lovely and small, great case and superb ariflow!

I despise my Aerocool DS Cube.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> Will the heat from my cpu go through the radiator and mess it up? Or will the 3 exhaust fans above take care of that?


I dont think so but its hard to say for sure without knowing more about your particular setup.

What are you using to cool the CPU?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> Will the heat from my cpu go through the radiator and mess it up? Or will the 3 exhaust fans above take care of that?


I can confirm it will not mess it up.

Used to have my system setup with an H60 cooling my CPU (i5-4570) and H55 cooling my R9 290. I had the two rads stacked with the CPU rad in front and GPU rad behind with a fan sandwiched in between as well as a fan in front and behind. Temps were fantastic.









Now, the only thing I will caution is if you're doing any heavy overclocking on the CPU and heavy CPU-bound tasks. But if you just have a mild OC on the CPU and just do mainly gaming, it'll be totally fine.

Some pics of the setup:


----------



## KickAssCop

Maybe a stupid question but which tool did you use to tighten those screws lol. I thought about sandwiching two radiators for my graphics cards but was worried that they will screw up the airflow to my Corsair 110i GT that is mounted up top. This setup looks great so I am wondering if I should also try it with my new classified. Decisions.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Maybe a stupid question but which tool did you use to tighten those screws lol. I thought about sandwiching two radiators for my graphics cards but was worried that they will screw up the airflow to my Corsair 110i GT that is mounted up top. This setup looks great so I am wondering if I should also try it with my new classified. Decisions.


Its not the best solution but several people have tried it with satisfactory results.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Maybe a stupid question but which tool did you use to tighten those screws lol. I thought about sandwiching two radiators for my graphics cards but was worried that they will screw up the airflow to my Corsair 110i GT that is mounted up top. This setup looks great so I am wondering if I should also try it with my new classified. Decisions.


Well first off, here's some pics of how I got that fan mounted between the two rads:













Used a very small flat head screwdriver through the fan frame, then on an angle from the side, turning it a bit at a time. I didn't crank them in super-tight, just snug was enough.

If you're wondering what screws I used, they're spare mounting screws for the hard drive mounting brackets on the Node 304 with small rubber washers.

One more important point to note; DO NOT stack a GPU rad in front of another - only behind (as exhaust) because they put out A LOT more heat than a CPU rad. I also wouldn't stack two GPU rads as the heat from the rad in front will soak into the 2nd rad and render the 2nd rad far less effective. The best scenario for stacking is with the CPU rad in front and GPU rad behind it. It has to be in that order.







Otherwise your CPU will run a lot hotter all the time.


----------



## Varno23

So... I got the worst possible outcome when installing my G10 Kraken + H75 setup. Sadly, my MSI 980ti Gaming 6g is now a paperweight. Could some of you guys help me figure out how this happened? (specs at the bottom)

I happened to do a ton of research on the installation of a g10 (youtube videos, internet guides, this thread, etc) and felt confident going in. And even after installing it all correctly, it looked fine. After the first boot-up, my GPU temps were down to 40-41 on idle. (it would usually idle 59-60) Everything seemed alright in Windows, the graphics card was working, the fans were spinning (both on the g10 bracket and the 2 corsair fans attached to the radiator) and the Corsair h75 was cooling well. When I launched a game (dragon age inquisition) my computer restarted and Asus gave me a warning on start-up that a power-surge was detected.

I looked over my bios and couldn't find anything out of place. So I tried my testing process again: launched into Windows (everythings running fine, with low temps) and tried launching a different game. This time, my computer restarted but no signal on my monitor. My msi 980ti was kaput. I tried connecting the stock-cooling fans back onto the MSI card (after removing the old thermal paste and reapplying some new stuff) but still nothing. Oddly, the 980ti fans are still spinning, but the card is unresponsive. (Had to install an older card into my system and everything is running fine again)

So what happened? This doesn't seem to be a normal occurrence for g10 owners. And where do I contact MSI about sending back the card for a possible replacement? (I should still be under some sort of warranty since I bought the card in July 2015)

System specs: i7 4970k, 16gb ram, Asus z97a-usb 3.1 motherboard, msi 980ti gaming 6g, samsung 250gb ssd, corsair 760t case, evga Supernova 1000w P2 platinum psu. (the power supply was purchased this summer as well and has been running well)

cooling stuff: g10 kraken, corsair h75, arctic silver cleaner kit, arctic silver 5, GELID ati/nvidia fan adapter.


----------



## Sorphius

@Varno23 I don't have any idea what would have caused that unless your AIO leaked and caused a short. Either way, per MSI's warranty terms you're probably boned. Some manufacturers (most notably EVGA) will cover replacement in this situation, but I don't think MSI does.

It's a long shot, but why don't you try plugging the card into a different PCI slot? I doubt it'll do anythibg, but If say it's worth a shot at this point.

Edit: Also- Holy Hell that idle temp. 59-60 is a reasonable temp under modest LOAD. Even with the stock cooler, it should idle in the 30s or low 40s depending on your ambient temp. I wonder if something wasn't wrong with your card or PSU to cause the higher temps, because NO card should idle at 60C.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varno23*
> 
> So... I got the worst possible outcome when installing my G10 Kraken + H75 setup. Sadly, my MSI 980ti Gaming 6g is now a paperweight. Could some of you guys help me figure out how this happened? (specs at the bottom)
> 
> I happened to do a ton of research on the installation of a g10 (youtube videos, internet guides, this thread, etc) and felt confident going in. And even after installing it all correctly, it looked fine. After the first boot-up, my GPU temps were down to 40-41 on idle. (it would usually idle 59-60) Everything seemed alright in Windows, the graphics card was working, the fans were spinning (both on the g10 bracket and the 2 corsair fans attached to the radiator) and the Corsair h75 was cooling well. When I launched a game (dragon age inquisition) my computer restarted and Asus gave me a warning on start-up that a power-surge was detected.
> 
> I looked over my bios and couldn't find anything out of place. So I tried my testing process again: launched into Windows (everythings running fine, with low temps) and tried launching a different game. This time, my computer restarted but no signal on my monitor. My msi 980ti was kaput. I tried connecting the stock-cooling fans back onto the MSI card (after removing the old thermal paste and reapplying some new stuff) but still nothing. Oddly, the 980ti fans are still spinning, but the card is unresponsive. (Had to install an older card into my system and everything is running fine again)
> 
> So what happened? This doesn't seem to be a normal occurrence for g10 owners. And where do I contact MSI about sending back the card for a possible replacement? (I should still be under some sort of warranty since I bought the card in July 2015)
> 
> System specs: i7 4970k, 16gb ram, Asus z97a-usb 3.1 motherboard, msi 980ti gaming 6g, samsung 250gb ssd, corsair 760t case, evga Supernova 1000w P2 platinum psu. (the power supply was purchased this summer as well and has been running well)
> 
> cooling stuff: g10 kraken, corsair h75, arctic silver cleaner kit, arctic silver 5, GELID ati/nvidia fan adapter.


did you log your temps when the game loaded?

your idle temps sound wayyyyyy tooooo high for a correct mount. you should get 25-30c idle on this card (i get 32 idle on my stock cooler). if you havent gotten a good mount i suspect your load temps wouldve spiked way over 90-100c as soon as the core was loaded up and youve blown something!


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> did you log your temps when the game loaded?
> 
> your idle temps sound wayyyyyy tooooo high for a correct mount. you should get 25-30c idle on this card (i get 32 idle on my stock cooler). if you havent gotten a good mount i suspect your load temps wouldve spiked way over 90-100c as soon as the core was loaded up and youve blown something!


I agree, those idle temps even with the stock cooler are way too high. What OS are you running just for kicks?


----------



## Varno23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> did you log your temps when the game loaded?
> 
> your idle temps sound wayyyyyy tooooo high for a correct mount. you should get 25-30c idle on this card (i get 32 idle on my stock cooler). if you havent gotten a good mount i suspect your load temps wouldve spiked way over 90-100c as soon as the core was loaded up and youve blown something!


Unable to log the temps with the g10 because of the power surges and computer restarting. Though before the g10 debacle, my gaming temps with the stock cooler would never get any higher than 78-79c. (and often, it was several degrees cooler than that) But from reading on Nvidia forums, many owners of the card noted that this particular gpu runs very hot and these sort of temps weren't too far out of the norm. Honestly though, if you have a MSI 980ti Gaming 6g edition and you can run it 32c on idle with its stock fans... then wow, you definitely hold the record. (Unless of course, you're running yer fans at 100% all the time, even on idle?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> I agree, those idle temps even with the stock cooler are way too high. What OS are you running just for kicks?


Windows 10.


----------



## Varno23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> @Varno23 I don't have any idea what would have caused that unless your AIO leaked and caused a short. Either way, per MSI's warranty terms you're probably boned. Some manufacturers (most notably EVGA) will cover replacement in this situation, but I don't think MSI does.
> 
> It's a long shot, but why don't you try plugging the card into a different PCI slot? I doubt it'll do anythibg, but If say it's worth a shot at this point.
> 
> Edit: Also- Holy Hell that idle temp. 59-60 is a reasonable temp under modest LOAD. Even with the stock cooler, it should idle in the 30s or low 40s depending on your ambient temp. I wonder if something wasn't wrong with your card or PSU to cause the higher temps, because NO card should idle at 60C.


I've had high ambient temperatures this summer, so I always wondered if that contributed. But I've also read that the MSI 980ti gaming will run hot, even when idle. Two other factors people have reported and are true, atleast for me: 1) when idle, the fans are hardly spinning (as to reduce noise). 2) g-sync monitors at 144hz and 1440p will raise the idle temps on top of that.

Just to be clear, when I manually adjusted the fans to run at 100% at all times, the card would drop down into the low 30's when idle. I also noticed that reducing my monitor from 144hz to something far lower also lowered my idle temps.


----------



## missalaire

The MSI 980 Ti Lightning looks pretty clear in the GPU die area, it should be compatible with the NZXT G10 bracket without shims or anything extra right?


----------



## watsaname

Yeah you should be good to go. The little protrusions on the EVGA mid-plate just barely touch the cooler making it impossible to mount without a shim. Like 1mm or so.


----------



## KickAssCop

Varno23, this is what happened to me as well when I did the following:
- I had a classified that I modded with NZXT G10 and X31. Problem was airflow and nothing I did would make it run cool (I was seeing temperature of 75 C during load and 30 C during idle).
- I replaced the NZXT and put the stock cooler back on. However, it seems I missed tightening a screw
- Loaded up the card, everything was fine. Ran Valley and saw temperature spike from 35 C idle to 75 C until I got a black screen and computer crashed

From then on, I reseated the stock sink 3 times without any luck. Card was done for. Now I have a replacement classified.
With MSI, unless you bought from Amazon or Newegg, it would be tough luck to get it replaced (with Amazon, I just packed the card and shipped it to them and they gave me a full refund since they don't really do RMA; they accept faulty products and refund money - my experience with them or maybe because Classified was out of stock).

I bought a new classified with the refunded amount and am not going to be putting a G10 again on it lol.


----------



## KickAssCop

Btw, MSI idles at 60 C because the fans don't turn on and with my MSI as well I was seeing 81 C load temperatures. He must have poor ASIC on the card. My MSI experience was horrible since the card won't clock past 1440. Ultimately, I sold it and recouped my costs and then went ahead and purchased a Classified.


----------



## MEC-777

Yeah, it seems to be the trend these days, with most of the latest and newest cards from Nvidia and AMD, to have them run quiet at the expense of running them hotter at the same time.

Running multiple displays will definitely increase idle temps, especially on cards like the MSI 6G where the fans don't turn on until 65 degrees or so. With the G10, my 290 idles in the low 40's but that's also with the rad fans only turning at about 800rpm and running 2 displays. With the fans at 1200, that drops the idle temps about 5 degrees.


----------



## Ultisym

The card should still throttle before temps do any damage. Do you have any pics of the setup mounted on to the gpu before you disassembled it and put the factory air cooler back on? I have seen one gpu bricked from installing the G-10 and it was due to the fact that he did not tighten the pump mounting screws evenly and the card was actually bowed from the installation. Not saying you did, but a lot of people over tighten these screws.


----------



## Varno23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> - Loaded up the card, everything was fine. Ran Valley and saw temperature spike from 35 C idle to 75 C until I got a black screen and computer crashed
> 
> From then on, I reseated the stock sink 3 times without any luck. Card was done for. Now I have a replacement classified.


Yeah, I keep wondering if a screw here or there was tightened too much or tightened too little. Honestly though, to the untrained eye, it looked fine. And when in Windows, the h75 was clearly cooling the gpu core... its just something catastrophic happened when launching up a game to test it under Load. I'm still not sure what. But as good as the G10 is, I don't think I'll ever attempt something like this on a gpu again. GPUs are coming out more expensive every year. Just not worth the risk, imo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The card should still throttle before temps do any damage. Do you have any pics of the setup mounted on to the gpu before you disassembled it and put the factory air cooler back on? I have seen one gpu bricked from installing the G-10 and it was due to the fact that he did not tighten the pump mounting screws evenly and the card was actually bowed from the installation. Not saying you did, but a lot of people over tighten these screws.


Unfortunately, no pics. I am wondering if I screwed on the h75 pump too tight or something... tho unlikely? I should mention I was ultra-careful in that part of the installation. I saw numerous videos warning about GPUs bowing when the pump was mounted too tight. So i took some time examining my card, making sure there wasn't bending or bowing. It looked fine, to be honest. Sooo... *shrug*. I'm still baffled.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varno23*
> 
> Unfortunately, no pics. I am wondering if I screwed on the h75 pump too tight or something... tho unlikely? I should mention I was ultra-careful in that part of the installation. I saw numerous videos warning about GPUs bowing when the pump was mounted too tight. So i took some time examining my card, making sure there wasn't bending or bowing. It looked fine, to be honest. Sooo... *shrug*. I'm still baffled.


If you paid attention while installing it thats not likely the issue then. You have to bow it pretty good to jack it up actually. I was just kind of throwing that out there. Anyway, i guess there is always the ESD factor. Its rare even if your not being particularly careful but it does happen. I would try for an RMA.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varno23*
> 
> Yeah, I keep wondering if a screw here or there was tightened too much or tightened too little. Honestly though, to the untrained eye, it looked fine. And when in Windows, the h75 was clearly cooling the gpu core... its just something catastrophic happened when launching up a game to test it under Load. I'm still not sure what. But as good as the G10 is, I don't think I'll ever attempt something like this on a gpu again. GPUs are coming out more expensive every year. Just not worth the risk, imo.
> Unfortunately, no pics. I am wondering if I screwed on the h75 pump too tight or something... tho unlikely? I should mention I was ultra-careful in that part of the installation. I saw numerous videos warning about GPUs bowing when the pump was mounted too tight. So i took some time examining my card, making sure there wasn't bending or bowing. It looked fine, to be honest. Sooo... *shrug*. I'm still baffled.


How was the as5 applied? It is 99% silver and can be capacitive if you allowed some to make contact to circuitry/transitors around the gpu. Based on it saying you had a power surge it can be a factor and had been known to cause cpus from booting up until cleaned up. Just a guess ?


----------



## JerDerv

Hey guys, i have a Gigabyte R9 380 G1 Gaming 4gb version and one of the fans is making some noise. So i thought it might be a good excuse to ditch the stock cooler







. Has anyone tried fitting the g10 on an r9 380? I have read that its very similar or possibly the same thing as the r9 285.

One thing that i would be kinda bummed about is the card comes with a really nice backplate and i really want to keep it if possible. My thought process is; its got the screw holes in the right spot why couldn't the existing backplate be used as long as i find compatible hardware?


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> Hey guys, i have a Gigabyte R9 380 G1 Gaming 4gb version and one of the fans is making some noise. So i thought it might be a good excuse to ditch the stock cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Has anyone tried fitting the g10 on an r9 380? I have read that its very similar or possibly the same thing as the r9 285.
> 
> One thing that i would be kinda bummed about is the card comes with a really nice backplate and i really want to keep it if possible. My thought process is; its got the screw holes in the right spot why couldn't the existing backplate be used as long as i find compatible hardware?


It should fit. Fit over my backplate.


----------



## Ultisym

Should be no problem keeping your backplate. Ive NEVER had to remove a single back plate on any gpu Ive installed the g-10 setup on. You do not even need the NZXT min plate if the screw heads are large enough that they dont pull through the holes in the back plate on your new GPU. But if you still decide to use the NZXT plate just remove the foam as the factory back plate is already isolated from the PCB and there are no worries grounding there.


----------



## JerDerv

Cool now i just need to figure out if it will fit the gigabyte r9 380


----------



## wiseguy109

I applied heatsinks (Cosmos VGA heatsinks) on all of the VDDC components in the red rectangle above. Afterwards, I read that the VRMs can get so hot they can melt thermal tape and cause a short.

Is it likely that the VDDC components will get hot enough to melt the tape on the heatsinks that have been applied? What are typical VDDC temperatures? Are VDDC heatsinks overkill, should I just take them off?

I also put heatsinks over the VRM and memory but I'm not worried about those because the heatsinks are on the midplate as opposed to directly on the VRM.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiseguy109*
> 
> 
> 
> I applied heatsinks (Cosmos VGA heatsinks) on all of the VDDC components in the red rectangle above. Afterwards, I read that the VRMs can get so hot they can melt thermal tape and cause a short.
> 
> Is it likely that the VDDC components will get hot enough to melt the tape on the heatsinks that have been applied? What are typical VDDC temperatures? Are VDDC heatsinks overkill, should I just take them off?
> 
> I also put heatsinks over the VRM and memory but I'm not worried about those because the heatsinks are on the midplate as opposed to directly on the VRM.


I see no reason to do either.


----------



## Ultisym

You definitely need heat sinks on the VRMs. There is no significant improvement or other advantage to running sinks on VRAM IMO. Your midplate should provide some cooling for the VRAM anyway. If the thermal tape is designed and or came with the heat sinks, you should be fine as far as it holding up to the temps.


----------



## wiseguy109

I didn't think the heatsinks on the VRAM were necessary but I had enough so I applied them there as well.

The only thing I have a concern about is if there is any significant risk of having the thermal tape on the VDDC heatsinks melting and causing a short.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiseguy109*
> 
> I didn't think the heatsinks on the VRAM were necessary but I had enough so I applied them there as well.
> 
> The only thing I have a concern about is if there is any significant risk of having the thermal tape on the VDDC heatsinks melting and causing a short.


The thermal tape shouldnt be made of conductive materials. Highly unlikely that can be an issue.


----------



## masteratarms

Typically you have chokes (inductors) near the VRM and they are not cooled. The VRM will be under the mid-plate because they need cooling. I believe you are heatsinking the chokes not the VRM. Its been recommended not to use thermal tape but adhesive thermal pads as they are higher quality.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Typically you have chokes (inductors) near the VRM and they are not cooled. The VRM will be under the mid-plate because they need cooling. I believe you are heatsinking the chokes not the VRM. Its been recommended not to use thermal tape but adhesive thermal pads as they are higher quality.


True, the vrms are usually put under the midplate on cards like that with a few exceptions.

Do Look at the cooler you pulled off and see if the section that covered the exposed components is removable Perhaps it can be attached some other way with the G-10 setup. Worth checking out at least.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> I see no reason to do either.


My bad i didnt see the picture. Some reason i thought you had a MSI which already had a midplate and heatsink plate over the vrms. Sorry for bad advice lol. But yes vrms need a heatsink. The chokes\power phases only need air cooling. Vram are cooled by midplate. I would just make sure you have sufficient airflow towards the card to rid the heat.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> My bad i didnt see the picture. Some reason i thought you had a MSI which already had a midplate and heatsink plate over the vrms. Sorry for bad advice lol. But yes vrms need a heatsink. The chokes\power phases only need air cooling. Vram are cooled by midplate. I would just make sure you have sufficient airflow towards the card to rid the heat.


The area he highlighted in his picture *is* the chokes/power phases. The VRMs are under the midplate so are already cooled.

@OP -- you can put your heatsinks on the midplate (specifically the area to the right of those chokes) if you want more heat dissipation, but the midplate itself should provide sufficient dissipation with the G10's fan to keep you from running into trouble.


----------



## wiseguy109

Thanks for the feedback everyone. From what I have read I'm assuming that if the chokes/power phases can operate safely just being air cooled they probably aren't going to become hot enough to melt the thermal tape on the heatsinks to the point where they will melt onto the chips and cause a short.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiseguy109*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback everyone. From what I have read I'm assuming that if the chokes/power phases can operate safely just being air cooled they probably aren't going to become hot enough to melt the thermal tape on the heatsinks to the point where they will melt onto the chips and cause a short.


Most GPUs come with thermal pads/tape on their VRMs from the factory with their factory coolers. So that alone should tell you, it won't be a problem.









The VRMs on one of my 290's hit over 100 degrees at one point. They're rated to operate at up to 125 degrees or so, so they can handle a lot. Of course, the cooler you keep them the better, regardless.


----------



## Ultisym

If it ends up on fire, the tape was the least of your worries


----------



## MEC-777

Just got the latest upgrade up and running on the weekend. Added another R9 290 (for crossfire setup) - a reference card with a Corsair HG10 + another H55. How many 120mm rads can you fit in an S340? 3, apparently.








Idle temps (fans at 800rpm): - Dead silent.

Top card - 36
Bottom card - 32

Typical gaming load temps (fans at 1600rpm): - Whisper quiet.

Top card - 70
Bottom card - 55

Contrast that to when I was testing both cards with their air coolers, load temps of 90 degrees + on both, accompanied by the sound of a jet engine.







It's much better now.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Idle temps (fans at 800rpm): - Dead silent.
> 
> Top card - 36
> Bottom card - 32
> 
> Typical gaming load temps (fans at 1600rpm): - Whisper quiet.
> 
> Top card - 70
> Bottom card - 55
> 
> Contrast that to when I was testing both cards with their air coolers, load temps of 90 degrees + on both, accompanied by the sound of a jet engine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's much better now.


What were the gaming load temps for both gpus on air?
While the temps themselves are not bad by any means.....15C is a big difference between the upper and lower card even with two crammed in a single case. My rig is packed pretty tight as well and im only seeing 3C max difference in temps between them at full load.


----------



## Someone09

If I am not mistaken you are basically blowing the hot air of the CPU and the bottom GPU right over both GPUs again and then the even hotter through the rad of the top GPU again, correct?
If so, it´s not really a surprise your top GPU gets pretty warm.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> What were the gaming load temps for both gpus on air?
> While the temps themselves are not bad by any means.....15C is a big difference between the upper and lower card even with two crammed in a single case. My rig is packed pretty tight as well and im only seeing 3C max difference in temps between them at full load.


I mentioned the gaming loads for both cards on air at the bottom of my post.







Both were hitting high-80's, low 90's and made a heck of a lot of noise.









But here's the thing, where are the rads for your GPUs, positioned? You have a case that has more/better rad/fan mounting options, so your airflow and temps will be better.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> If I am not mistaken you are basically blowing the hot air of the CPU and the bottom GPU right over both GPUs again and then the even hotter through the rad of the top GPU again, correct?
> If so, it´s not really a surprise your top GPU gets pretty warm.


The air exhausting the CPU rad doesn't blow over the GPUs at all. The rad for the bottom GPU does exhaust hot air in front of the GPUs, yes. But I don't have too much of a choice about that in this case. To be honest, I'm surprised the top GPU doesn't get hotter than it does, given the air flow situation. The highest I've seen it hit is the mid 70's - which, if you consider BOTH cards were hitting over 90 on air, 75 is still FAR better.









I believe I have an idea of how to help the top GPU run cooler - I need to flip the top case fan over and have it as an intake instead of exhaust. Right now it's pulling all that hot air from the front rads right up to the intake of the rear rad. If I have cool fresh air being blown down in right in front of that rear rad, it should push more of the hot air straight out the back of the case (S340 has awesome rear ventilation above the expansion slots) and feed some of that fresh air it's pushing in right to the rear rad.

There's not much I can do about the bottom GPU rad exhausting right in front of the cards, but from what I've observed, the VRM temps on both cards are still well within safe limits. I'm also thinking about mounting an additional 120mm fan at the bottom on an angle at the front to pull fresh air in through the gap below the bottom rad. This should help keep both cards cooler and keep the overall temps inside the case a little lower as well.

So yeah, it's still a bit of a work in progress - still refining the setup for optimal efficiency.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I mentioned the gaming loads for both cards on air at the bottom of my post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both were hitting high-80's, low 90's and made a heck of a lot of noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But here's the thing, where are the rads for your GPUs, positioned? You have a case that has more/better rad/fan mounting options, so your airflow and temps will be better.


Yeah my case is a little better, but I have wayyyyyyyyy to much crammed in there. As i get asked how its set up a good bit, I made a quick paint image of it, LOL....but should give you an idea of what im doing anyway. Look at the build list for my game rig though and you will see just how much crap i have in there. Forgive the poor sketch. Short story, I really should be in a larger case, but i really like this one. lol


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

The definition of crammed. Lol. Before i went to a Fractal Node 804 and 980ti ?


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> The air exhausting the CPU rad doesn't blow over the GPUs at all. The rad for the bottom GPU does exhaust hot air in front of the GPUs, yes. But I don't have too much of a choice about that in this case. To be honest, I'm surprised the top GPU doesn't get hotter than it does, given the air flow situation. The highest I've seen it hit is the mid 70's - which, if you consider BOTH cards were hitting over 90 on air, 75 is still FAR better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe I have an idea of how to help the top GPU run cooler - I need to flip the top case fan over and have it as an intake instead of exhaust. Right now it's pulling all that hot air from the front rads right up to the intake of the rear rad. If I have cool fresh air being blown down in right in front of that rear rad, it should push more of the hot air straight out the back of the case (S340 has awesome rear ventilation above the expansion slots) and feed some of that fresh air it's pushing in right to the rear rad.
> 
> There's not much I can do about the bottom GPU rad exhausting right in front of the cards, but from what I've observed, the VRM temps on both cards are still well within safe limits. I'm also thinking about mounting an additional 120mm fan at the bottom on an angle at the front to pull fresh air in through the gap below the bottom rad. This should help keep both cards cooler and keep the overall temps inside the case a little lower as well.
> 
> So yeah, it's still a bit of a work in progress - still refining the setup for optimal efficiency.


What I personally would do in that case is: Swap the top fan around and set it as intake. Mount the CPU rad at the back and set the fans as intake. Mount the GPU rads at the front and set both as exhaust.
Obviously it´s not really necessary to do this since your temps are ok...ish.








Just saying what I would do.


----------



## bagoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> So yeah, it's still a bit of a work in progress - still refining the setup for optimal efficiency.


Have you tried swapping the rear rad with the top fan then making all the rad exhaust and the rear fan as an intake?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> The definition of crammed. Lol. Before i went to a Fractal Node 804 and 980ti ?


That IS a lot of stuff crammed in there







I must say, mine is immaculate comparatively speaking.


----------



## Ultisym

On topic, I agree with "someone09", I would definitely have the GPU radiators exhausting the case. The CPU does better most of the time drawing cool air directly into the radiator anyway. As indicated in my kindergarten drawing, both my H-90s are exhausting out of the side panel and my H-110 for the CPU is intaking from the top.


----------



## skkane

Installed two X41's on my 980 ti's. They are awesome, I was not expecting results this good. Too many wires coming out of them though, need to do something about hiding them somehow









75/86 C before with reference coolers and very loud @ 100% fan speeds (anything less, top card would go over 93 and throttle)

vs

45/47 C now and cemetery silent compared to what I was hearing before


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






After 1hr of GTA V


Some valley windowed to capture the CAM soft


Idle


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah my case is a little better, but I have wayyyyyyyyy to much crammed in there. As i get asked how its set up a good bit, I made a quick paint image of it, LOL....but should give you an idea of what im doing anyway. Look at the build list for my game rig though and you will see just how much crap i have in there. Forgive the poor sketch. Short story, I really should be in a larger case, but i really like this one. lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, you have WAAAAY more options than I do. I would switch to a bigger case but I love the S340 too much. I know there's an optimal way to setup everything I have in it, I just need to figure it out.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> What I personally would do in that case is: Swap the top fan around and set it as intake. Mount the CPU rad at the back and set the fans as intake. Mount the GPU rads at the front and set both as exhaust.
> Obviously it´s not really necessary to do this since your temps are ok...ish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just saying what I would do.


I don't want anything intaking that doesn't have a dust filter. I have 4 small dogs (chihuahua's) and we have to dust and vacuum once a week to stay on top of it.







Seeing how much crap the front dust covers keep out of the case after just 2 weeks, yeah, I don't want to run any intakes without filters. I know it's more ideal to have rads as exhausts, but I just don't have that option here. I think it can be done in such a way as to dissipate and direct or exhaust the hot air away from other components for a more optimal arrangement - even with one or two rads exhausting into the case. Lot's of people run CPU rads on the front exhausting into the case, and since they will put off WAY less heat than a GPU rad does, I think it's best the way I have it right now in terms of rad arrangement.

I am going to flip the top fan over and use it as intake with an extra 140mm dust filter I happened to have lying around. So that will definitely help lower the temps of the air that rear rad is pulling in. Have some other idea's for adding other fans as well, but will have to do some trial and error to find the best setup.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> Have you tried swapping the rear rad with the top fan then making all the rad exhaust and the rear fan as an intake?


Can't mount a rad in the top fan position in the S340. There's not enough clearance for a rad + fan there (hits the motherboard) and neither of the H55's on the GPUs have long enough hoses to reach.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> On topic, I agree with "someone09", I would definitely have the GPU radiators exhausting the case. The CPU does better most of the time drawing cool air directly into the radiator anyway. As indicated in my kindergarten drawing, both my H-90s are exhausting out of the side panel and my H-110 for the CPU is intaking from the top.


Again, that would be ideal and thanks for the suggestions, but I don't think that can be done with the hardware and layout inside this case. I think my best bet will be to flip the top fan and add 1 or 2 additional fans in strategic locations to help dissipate and re-direct the hot air out the back of the case and away from the top rad.

I've got lots of extra fans to play with. Will do some experimenting tonight and see what can be done. Thanks, everyone for all the suggestions. Much appreciated.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Installed two X41's on my 980 ti's. They are awesome, I was not expecting results this good. Too many wires coming out of them though, need to do something about hiding them somehow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 75/86 C before with reference coolers and very loud @ 100% fan speeds (anything less, top card would go over 93 and throttle)
> 
> vs
> 
> 45/47 C now and cemetery silent compared to what I was hearing before
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 1hr of GTA V
> 
> 
> Some valley windowed to capture the CAM soft
> 
> 
> Idle


Awesome temps! are you using the NZXT GRID+ as your fan controller with the CAM software?


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Awesome temps! are you using the NZXT GRID+ as your fan controller with the CAM software?


Thanks! I don't have one. Running everything from my motherboard.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Again, that would be ideal and thanks for the suggestions, but I don't think that can be done with the hardware and layout inside this case. I think my best bet will be to flip the top fan and add 1 or 2 additional fans in strategic locations to help dissipate and re-direct the hot air out the back of the case and away from the top rad.
> 
> I've got lots of extra fans to play with. Will do some experimenting tonight and see what can be done. Thanks, everyone for all the suggestions. Much appreciated.


Where you say you dont have clearance for a fan AND a radiator, consider mounting the fan externally with a filter and grill if intake, or just a grill if exhaust. If you do it right it doesnt look bad at all. I actually like the way mine looks and there is definitely no other way I could make all that work in my case.Thats actually how all of my rad/fans are mounted. The H-110 is under the top of the case and the two fans on top pushing intake. The H-90s are on the side panel again with the radiators on the inside of the panel and the fans mounted outside pulling exhaust. Buys you a little valuable space. Just a thought.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Where you say you dont have clearance for a fan AND a radiator, consider mounting the fan externally with a filter and grill if intake, or just a grill if exhaust. If you do it right it doesnt look bad at all. I actually like the way mine looks and there is definitely no other way I could make all that work in my case.Thats actually how all of my rad/fans are mounted. The H-110 is under the top of the case and the two fans on top pushing intake. The H-90s are on the side panel again with the radiators on the inside of the panel and the fans mounted outside pulling exhaust. Buys you a little valuable space. Just a thought.


Well, last night, I came up with a solution, which happens to be exactly what you suggested - mounting the fan on the outside on top.









So now both GPU rads are setup as exhausts and I have 2x Deepcool GF120 PWM fans mounted/positioned at the front/bottom as intakes, with the H60 rad still in the same place, just with the hoses turned back up-right. Now there's a good supply of fresh cool air being blown right on and over both cards, keeping the cards themselves much cooler and supplying much cooler air to the GPU rads.

The results:

*Idle temps: (fans at 800rpm)*

Top card - 33
Bottom card - 32

*Load temps: (fans at 1400rpm - after several hours of playing PCars)*

Top card ~ 58-63
Bottom card ~50-53

Now that's MUCH better. Case doesn't become a hot-box anymore either which is nice. Top is still cool to the touch after hours of gaming, where as before it got uncomfortably warm. Pics of the revised setup:








I can actually fit a fan in push on the inside on the top rad, but it has to be a slim fan of 20mm or less. Anyone know of any good quality static pressure slim fans?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Well, last night, I came up with a solution, which happens to be exactly what you suggested - mounting the fan on the outside on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now both GPU rads are setup as exhausts and I have 2x Deepcool GF120 PWM fans mounted/positioned at the front/bottom as intakes, with the H60 rad still in the same place, just with the hoses turned back up-right. Now there's a good supply of fresh cool air being blown right on and over both cards, keeping the cards themselves much cooler and supplying much cooler air to the GPU rads.
> 
> The results:
> 
> *Idle temps: (fans at 800rpm)*
> 
> Top card - 33
> Bottom card - 32
> 
> *Load temps: (fans at 1400rpm - after several hours of playing PCars)*
> 
> Top card ~ 58-63
> Bottom card ~50-53
> 
> Now that's MUCH better. Case doesn't become a hot-box anymore either which is nice. Top is still cool to the touch after hours of gaming, where as before it got uncomfortably warm. Pics of the revised setup:
> 
> I can actually fit a fan in push on the inside on the top rad, but it has to be a slim fan of 20mm or less. Anyone know of any good quality static pressure slim fans?


Nice. Those temps sound right! Now just get a nice looking grill and it will give it that finished look lol. I got mine from a certain custom water cooling store that is now frowned upon in general, but they should be easy enough to find.

Here are the filters I used for the intakes, though I used 140mm obviously. Extremely easy, even convenient to clean.

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-120mm-Magnetic-Filter-AC-002-ON1NAN-A1/dp/B00KHO0I38/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1442430965&sr=8-5&keywords=120mm+fan+filter

Pick your flavor of grill

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=black+120mm+fan+grill


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Where you say you dont have clearance for a fan AND a radiator, consider mounting the fan externally with a filter and grill if intake, or just a grill if exhaust. If you do it right it doesnt look bad at all. I actually like the way mine looks and there is definitely no other way I could make all that work in my case.Thats actually how all of my rad/fans are mounted. The H-110 is under the top of the case and the two fans on top pushing intake. The H-90s are on the side panel again with the radiators on the inside of the panel and the fans mounted outside pulling exhaust. Buys you a little valuable space. Just a thought.


Do you have a H110 on your GPU and if not does anybody else?

I wanna see what kind of temps it does.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Do you have a H110 on your GPU and if not does anybody else?
> 
> I wanna see what kind of temps it does.


No I have the H-110 on my CPU. Im running H-90s on the GPUs.


----------



## Benny89

Hello, owners of G10.

I would like to ask you for some help regarding G10. I need to find screws that are like those added to G10 but without extra threading towards the top:



Can somebody tell how this type of screws are called or what typ of screws it is and what length/wide they are?

Also second question- can you replace those screws with for example standard radiators screws 32 mm? I ask just in case if I wouldn't find same type of screws like those added to G10 but without this extra threading.

Thank you very much for your help







.


----------



## odin2free

Curious
MSI GTX 970 100ME....
I have the card right in front of me.

Would it be possible to use this bracket on this specific card?
(I think it would be able to)


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odin2free*
> 
> Curious
> MSI GTX 970 100ME....
> I have the card right in front of me.
> 
> Would it be possible to use this bracket on this specific card?
> (I think it would be able to)


you should be able to but the VRM's on the MSi 970 are on teh left hand side so you'll need to improvise some VRM cooling


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Nice. Those temps sound right! Now just get a nice looking grill and it will give it that finished look lol. I got mine from a certain custom water cooling store that is now frowned upon in general, but they should be easy enough to find.
> 
> Here are the filters I used for the intakes, though I used 140mm obviously. Extremely easy, even convenient to clean.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-120mm-Magnetic-Filter-AC-002-ON1NAN-A1/dp/B00KHO0I38/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1442430965&sr=8-5&keywords=120mm+fan+filter
> 
> Pick your flavor of grill
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=black+120mm+fan+grill


Thanks, yeah, I'm really happy with the setup now.









I don't need any filters as everything that's intake has a filter already. But I should put a grill on the top fan just to keep anything (fingers) from accidentally getting in there.


----------



## InfraRedRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Installed two X41's on my 980 ti's. They are awesome, I was not expecting results this good. Too many wires coming out of them though, need to do something about hiding them somehow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 75/86 C before with reference coolers and very loud @ 100% fan speeds (anything less, top card would go over 93 and throttle)
> 
> vs
> 
> 45/47 C now and cemetery silent compared to what I was hearing before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 1hr of GTA V
> 
> 
> Some valley windowed to capture the CAM soft
> 
> 
> Idle


what are your fan profiles like? fan rpm under loads? and any vrm cooling in place? i have a 980Ti i want to put a x41 on and want to know how it performs at low rpm. actually how do you find the temperature of the rad exhaust from one of these?


----------



## Tim Drake

Does anybody know which would cool VRMs / VRAM better, Reference Blower or Thermal Pads + Aluminium Heatsinksk + 92mm Fan?


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfraRedRabbit*
> 
> what are your fan profiles like? fan rpm under loads? and any vrm cooling in place? i have a 980Ti i want to put a x41 on and want to know how it performs at low rpm. actually how do you find the temperature of the rad exhaust from one of these?


I have nothing on the vrm's / memory. Heatsinks I ordered didn't fit and could not wait any longer. If I hover my hand over the cards i can't sense any big heat coming from there so i'll just leave them like this I guess.

I use the performance profile during games which can be heard. It takes the fans to 75% (1700rpm / 3300 rpm pump). I only use the Silent mode for desktop (900 rpm / 2400 rpm pump). Anything over 75% and it gets very loud, the 140mm fan they use are not the best.

It's like a a small room heater now. Liquid goes to 48C and the air coming from the rads is pretty warm, feels like over 50 c. I wanted to mount them on the bottom at first but glad I didn't. I have a feeling all that heat would've risen inside my case, even though it has ventilation holes on the bottom...

No pump noise that I can hear also. It's a pretty good bit of kit altough there are way too many wires coming out of it (pump, vrm fan, usb cable, rad fan) , kills the cable management that you already have in there.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Thanks, yeah, I'm really happy with the setup now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I should put a grill on the top fan just to keep anything (fingers) from accidentally getting in there.


True story, my cat jumped on top of my rig before i had grills on the two fans on the H110.










































Shes never done it again.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Does anybody know which would cool VRMs / VRAM better, Reference Blower or Thermal Pads + Aluminium Heatsinksk + 92mm Fan?


I would do heat sinks and 92mm fan personally.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> I have nothing on the vrm's / memory. Heatsinks I ordered didn't fit and could not wait any longer. If I hover my hand over the cards i can't sense any big heat coming from there so i'll just leave them like this I guess.
> 
> I use the performance profile during games which can be heard. It takes the fans to 75% (1700rpm / 3300 rpm pump). I only use the Silent mode for desktop (900 rpm / 2400 rpm pump). Anything over 75% and it gets very loud, the 140mm fan they use are not the best.
> 
> It's like a a small room heater now. Liquid goes to 48C and the air coming from the rads is pretty warm, feels like over 50 c. I wanted to mount them on the bottom at first but glad I didn't. I have a feeling all that heat would've risen inside my case, even though it has ventilation holes on the bottom...
> 
> No pump noise that I can hear also. It's a pretty good bit of kit altough there are way too many wires coming out of it (pump, vrm fan, usb cable, rad fan) , kills the cable management that you already have in there.


You need something on the VRMs. They will overheat if the card hits max performance for any length of time. Extra cooling on the VRAM is not necessary.


----------



## skkane

Yes, they should. I'll have to find some small (less then 12mm's high) ones for them. I got 15x15x15mm, 3 kits like a muppet, can't use at all


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Yes, they should. I'll have to find some small (less then 12mm's high) ones for them. I got 15x15x15mm, 3 kits like a muppet, can't use at all


Aluminium (UK spelling) is easy to hacksaw or sand. Got some of these:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=178124&Sku=T925-1022&csid=ITD&recordsPerPage=10&body=REVIEWS#CustomerReviewsBlock
They fit where ever I tell them to.


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Aluminium (UK spelling) is easy to hacksaw or sand. Got some of these:
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=178124&Sku=T925-1022&csid=ITD&recordsPerPage=10&body=REVIEWS#CustomerReviewsBlock
> They fit where ever I tell them to.


I only have a nail file







))

Access Denied
You don't have permission to access "http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?" on this server.

Reference #18.8e055368.1442569883.751ac67

Tigerdirect is blocking my whole country ip range i think. Nice 1997 coding there.


----------



## archtc

G10 can be mounted on a gigabyte gtx 970 g1?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *archtc*
> 
> G10 can be mounted on a gigabyte gtx 970 g1?


Yes..BUT, the VRMs are on the output side of the PCB on the model IIRC so you will have to put heatsinks if your card does not already have them on the VRMs and provide some sort of fan to cool them. The G-10 design is based on PCBs where the VRMs are on the rear of the PCB.



VRMs on some 970s are in red box, area cooled by fan on G-10 in blue box. Some 970s do have the VRMs in the blue area.


----------



## masteratarms

This.


----------



## 7he5tig

Holy CRAP. Okay so here's my story. I bought a G10 for my 780 Ti DCU2, because it would hit over 80 degrees (in 3DMark it would reach 86 and hover there). I'm really not a fan of high temps so I went out, bought a G10 along with a h55 and an SP120 and wooow. Firstly the DirectCU isn't supposed to be "compatible", but it fits. The screws are short but you need a little force to get them to poke out more so you can get that initial screwing in done, and everything else is completely fine.

Anyways I did it, and when I checked the temperatures I got the biggest shock ever. 26 degrees idle. Wat. I used to get like 40+ degrees idle. So I ran 3DMark expecting like 60+ degrees. IT STAYED BELOW 40! Constantly in the 30s! I'm freaking out. Eithe something is wrong with the sensor or this is just the best purchasing decision I've ever made.

Even my damn CPU temps dropped massively (since I think the inside of the case is a looot cooler now so the X61 is sucking in colder air, plus I changed the fans to better ones, so CPU idles at about 30 now and never goes above 60, and this is at 4.8ghz.

Here she is, nice and cool.


EDIT: Sorry for the sparkling effect on the lights. I literally have no idea why my phone does that when it takes photos.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

looks like a nice rig there man. When I had my g10 on it was shocking too.


----------



## skkane

Was shocking for me aswell







Looking good there!


----------



## nerdybeat

G10 + H55 installed and operational!


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> G10 + H55 installed and operational!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you have to get different hardware?

I just tried my 980ti sc tonight. Removed the pad on the kraken plate and had a shim on the die.....No go. Could not get a thread at all (front plate and back plate). Any ideas?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> Did you have to get different hardware?
> 
> I just tried my 980ti sc tonight. Removed the pad on the kraken plate and had a shim on the die.....No go. Could not get a thread at all (front plate and back plate). Any ideas?


Trim down or take off the foam spacer that's on the bottom side of the G10 fan. It's too thick to provide clean contact on a card with a midplate.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

What I did was I took the midplate off and put the foam (sliced it to half the thickness) inbetween the board and midplate.

This helped my card not bend and bow. It also helped apply more pressure on the chip and heatsink/pump.

My temperatures weren't that good, at 65C, till I adjusted the mount. They were 55C afterwards with better contact.


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> Did you have to get different hardware?
> 
> I just tried my 980ti sc tonight. Removed the pad on the kraken plate and had a shim on the die.....No go. Could not get a thread at all (front plate and back plate). Any ideas?


I didn't use any of the (2) foam pieces that are recommended for "easier install". I also didn't use the foam on the NZXT backplate. If that still doesn't give you contact, order some of this stuff:

screws: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F33LFTE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00F33LFTE&linkCode=as2&tag=byogamingpc-20&linkId=KZNHHQFXAAPCPRV4
washers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O41NJWC/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00O41NJWC&linkCode=as2&tag=byogamingpc-20&linkId=IWSH32GAWPIDXBMU
finishing washers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E3Q7H8/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005E3Q7H8&linkCode=as2&tag=byogamingpc-20&linkId=KIRZIG7AXUPSNBIQ

edit: I'm sure those are available in smaller quantities at a local hardware store.

Found those on this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=249&v=RlGMhASE22w showing someone that installed the G10 on a card with a large stock backplate.

Good luck!


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> I didn't use any of the (2) foam pieces that are recommended for "easier install". I also didn't use the foam on the NZXT backplate. If that still doesn't give you contact, order some of this stuff:
> 
> screws: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F33LFTE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00F33LFTE&linkCode=as2&tag=byogamingpc-20&linkId=KZNHHQFXAAPCPRV4
> washers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O41NJWC/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00O41NJWC&linkCode=as2&tag=byogamingpc-20&linkId=IWSH32GAWPIDXBMU
> finishing washers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E3Q7H8/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005E3Q7H8&linkCode=as2&tag=byogamingpc-20&linkId=KIRZIG7AXUPSNBIQ
> 
> edit: I'm sure those are available in smaller quantities at a local hardware store.
> 
> Found those on this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=249&v=RlGMhASE22w showing someone that installed the G10 on a card with a large stock backplate.
> 
> Good luck!


Gonna take a stab at it tonight, hopefully it goes smooth. I still have my 10g "tub" of Gelid GC-e paste ready for service


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> Gonna take a stab at it tonight, hopefully it goes smooth. I still have my 10g "tub" of Gelid GC-e paste ready for service


Good luck! Post up pics when complete. Hope you're able to get it all set up.


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> Good luck! Post up pics when complete. Hope you're able to get it all set up.


I tried the antec 920, but i may have to apply more pressure....moving forward, I also have an h75, which is now connected. Still have to test, but gotta run to the store.

If the 920 doesn't work, i can try my thermaltake extreme....which is connected to my cpu atm.

EDIT: Ran Firestrike Extreme for about an hour. Max temps were 58C. This is w/ an open case (air 540), wide open case. Once I get my second card running, I will report back w/ pics and closed case temps.

I ordered the screw's and finishing washers. I think I will reuse the washers from the g10 to replace the insulation washers.


----------



## Viviox

Do you guys think the Kraken G10 will fit on Powercolor HD 7870 Myst? Also, is the Corsair H55 strong enough for most cards? I only upgrade my GPU once every 3 years :







:


----------



## maynard14

hi guys,, can i use nzxt g10 and aio cooler on a gtx 980 ti gaming g1 gigabyte? coz i have seen the pcb of the g1 but no vrm heatsinks


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> hi guys,, can i use nzxt g10 and aio cooler on a gtx 980 ti gaming g1 gigabyte? coz i have seen the pcb of the g1 but no vrm heatsinks


i have been using it with no heatsinks or any sort of cooling for the VRM's and VRAM(besides the 80mm fan for the VRM's)

Dont put the NZXT backplate when you are installing your cooler


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> i have been using it with no heatsinks or any sort of cooling for the VRM's and VRAM(besides the 80mm fan for the VRM's)
> 
> Dont put the NZXT backplate when you are installing your cooler


i see, but how about the temps of the vrms? arent you monitoring them sir? and what kind of temps are you getting on the core? thanks sir


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> i see, but how about the temps of the vrms? arent you monitoring them sir? and what kind of temps are you getting on the core? thanks sir


no clue Tbh but i am guessing its working fine since I have already done my benching on the card and its runs 1480/2000 24/7


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> no clue Tbh but i am guessing its working fine since I have already done my benching on the card and its runs 1480/2000 24/7


ahah i see bro, thanks bro im curious about the core if the temps are much lower than the stock windforce cooler


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> ahah i see bro, thanks bro im curious about the core if the temps are much lower than the stock windforce cooler


my max temps with the windforce cooler i got playing gta 5 was 65 ( but my ambient are around 15-20, because winter)... with the G10 my max temps with SP120s in push/pull config is 49 degrees

While benching the max temps i saw were in the high 50's


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

I would not oc this card without vrm cooling. Let alone run it without vrm cooling period.


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> I would not oc this card without vrm cooling. Let alone run it without vrm cooling period.


not sure what you mean

but i ran my 290X with PT1 bios without any VRM cooling (besides the fan that the g10 comes with) and with hawaii the Vrm's get to high 80's easily


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> not sure what you mean
> 
> but i ran my 290X with PT1 bios without any VRM cooling (besides the fan that the g10 comes with) and with hawaii the Vrm's get to high 80's easily


I think the issue for the 290 vrm is not the fan side? Is there another vrm on the left side? That's the one that doesn't have a fan blowing at it. On the whole, it's still better to put heatsinks on as it will bring down the temps further.


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> I think the issue for the 290 vrm is not the fan side? Is there another vrm on the left side? That's the one that doesn't have a fan blowing at it. On the whole, it's still better to put heatsinks on as it will bring down the temps further.


If ia m not wrong thats VRM 2 and that even without any cooling hovers around 52 .. the VRM 1 are the one's that need to be cooled extensively and are nearest to the power connections


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Besides the fact he's using a 980ti. Its already been shown that some type of heatsink is recommended. Most people don't prefer their vrms to run in the 80-90's.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the fact he's using a 980ti. Its already been shown that some type of heatsink is recommended. Most people don't prefer their vrms to run in the 80-90's.


How can you compare an overclocked cards VRMs temps against stock?


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Random pulled test. Better?


The Asus strix 980ti provides the same 3 fan heatsink reinforced cooling to vrms. The Asus was shown to run its vrms around 75 in this setup. You can be sure the vrms will be in the 90s atleast without a heatsink. I did testing awhile back with sensors and minimal changes to the vrms cooling made huge impacts on temperatures.


----------



## Spectre-

Lol

anyways ill probably Expand my H320 and make the 980ti part of the loop before summer

i am not too worried of temps atm ... its nice and cool my idle temp is in low 20's


----------



## masteratarms

You can do what you want with your 980ti you can even RMA it if it breaks ( some manufacturers allow removal off stock cooler but I bet they didn't count on the stupidity of some users ).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> Lol


"In our world of electronic product design, we live by this rule of thumb: For every 10 degrees Centigrade rise in temperature, the average reliability is decreased by 50 percent"
http://www.extron.com/company/article.aspx?id=thermalmgt1_ts

You are swimming against the current of this thread, which is to universally improve cooling and provide a resource on how to best do that.


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> You can do what you want with your 980ti you can even RMA it if it breaks ( some manufacturers allow removal off stock cooler but I bet they didn't count on the stupidity of some users ).
> "In our world of electronic product design, we live by this rule of thumb: For every 10 degrees Centigrade rise in temperature, the average reliability is decreased by 50 percent"
> http://www.extron.com/company/article.aspx?id=thermalmgt1_ts
> 
> You are swimming against the current of this thread, which is to universally improve cooling and provide a resource on how to best do that.


Obviously we want to improve cooling but i am buying a new Graphics card every 6 months and I have had no trouble without putting heatsinks on VRM's

but i fyou plan on keeping a card longer than 6-9 months ( unlike me ) than i would advise that you should have a appropriate cooling for this sort of thing


----------



## masteratarms

That's a big f'you to the person u sell it to, especially considering the price of the card vs heatsink; VRMs being usually easier than vram. Its like running a car without oil and saying it only has to last until I sell it.


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> That's a big f'you to the person u sell it to, especially considering the price of the card vs heatsink; VRMs being usually easier than vram. Its like running a car without oil and saying it only has to last until I sell it.


i usually just keep the the card i have and put the stock heatsink on again and upgrade my racing sim pc ( so basically my racing pc gets the last gen top end card)


----------



## Tim Drake

Anybody got an idea of how I could get heatsinks under the blower fan for my reference 980? I was thinking of sanding off some of the blower length or would that weaken the blower too much?

Also, is there anyway I could get a custom metal faceplate?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Anybody got an idea of how I could get heatsinks under the blower fan for my reference 980? I was thinking of sanding off some of the blower length or would that weaken the blower too much?
> 
> Also, is there anyway I could get a custom metal faceplate?


Why do you want to mid your blower? I don't know how much room there is under the blower fan on a stick 980ti, if you're doing that, you may as well go ahead and either out a g10 and AIO on it, or one of the Arctic Cooling aftermarket gpu coolers.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Anybody got an idea of how I could get heatsinks under the blower fan for my reference 980? I was thinking of sanding off some of the blower length or would that weaken the blower too much?
> 
> Also, is there anyway I could get a custom metal faceplate?


Blower fan? I must of missed something in one of your posts. You put a reference blower fan on or what?

As for backplate or any kind of plate really, if you can draw it up in cad or have a friend who will do it for you, you can have something cut with whatever design you want. There are small mom and pop laser cutting operations in most of the larger cities ive been to who will do small jobs as long as you let them do it when they have a break between projects. There are some places you can find who make plates already but custom work other than the stuff they already came up with is never cheap.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Blower fan? I must of missed something in one of your posts.


Unless maybe he's using the Corsair HG10 or whatever their AIO mount is??? I think it may be out now.... Either way, yeah... I'm not really sure what he's talking about.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Unless maybe he's using the Corsair HG10 or whatever their AIO mount is??? I think it may be out now.... Either way, yeah... I'm not really sure what he's talking about.


Yeah i was aware of the corsair version but hes been posting in this thread a good bit IIRC, i was wondering if hes been in the wrong place the whole time. LOL


----------



## Siamak8286

Guys, I have a MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G, I want your opinion on what I should do next, I have the option on spending a lot of extra cash and go full custom loop with a full cover EK block

or

Get the NZXT Kraken G10 and a NZXT AIO, which I'm sure it will be much cheaper but at what cost? I want not only low temps but I'm much after silence.

Is a D5 Vario pump as silent or even more silent than NZXT AIO Pump?
Will my VRM on MSI GTX 980 Ti gaming run a risk of being damaged with Kraken G10?
Ultimately what would you suggest? whats the safer, quieter, ultimately better way to go?


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Guys, I have a MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G, I want your opinion on what I should do next, I have the option on spending a lot of extra cash and go full custom loop with a full cover EK block
> 
> or
> 
> Get the NZXT Kraken G10 and a NZXT AIO, which I'm sure it will be much cheaper but at what cost? I want not only low temps but I'm much after silence.
> 
> Is a D5 Vario pump as silent or even more silent than NZXT AIO Pump?
> Will my VRM on MSI GTX 980 Ti gaming run a risk of being damaged with Kraken G10?
> Ultimately what would you suggest?whats the safer, quieter, ultimately better way to go?


How would your vrms be at risk of being damaged exactly?


----------



## Siamak8286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> How would your vrms be at risk of being damaged exactly?


I don't really know as Im not sure if the single fan in back is enough for vrm and vram, also the more important questions which are not answered is:

Is a D5 Vario pump as silent or even more silent than NZXT AIO Pump? or the NZXT AIO pump is more silent?

Ultimately what would you suggest? whats the safer, quieter, ultimately better way to go?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Guys, I have a MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6G, I want your opinion on what I should do next, I have the option on spending a lot of extra cash and go full custom loop with a full cover EK block
> 
> or
> 
> Get the NZXT Kraken G10 and a NZXT AIO, which I'm sure it will be much cheaper but at what cost? I want not only low temps but I'm much after silence.
> 
> Is a D5 Vario pump as silent or even more silent than NZXT AIO Pump?
> Will my VRM on MSI GTX 980 Ti gaming run a risk of being damaged with Kraken G10?
> Ultimately what would you suggest? whats the safer, quieter, ultimately better way to go?


Noise is subjective so it's difficult to say. A lot depends on your case, fan speeds, etc. The MSI card is PERFECT for the G10 because of its midplate, which keeps the vrms cool with the g10 installed. If money isn't an issue then a custom loop will be better 100% of the time, but a g10 will be close for a fraction of the price.


----------



## Siamak8286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Noise is subjective so it's difficult to say. A lot depends on your case, fan speeds, etc. The MSI card is PERFECT for the G10 because of its midplate, which keeps the vrms cool with the g10 installed. If money isn't an issue then a custom loop will be better 100% of the time, but a g10 will be close for a fraction of the price.


Money is not an issue here at all, but with risk of leaks, maintenance, etc... would it still be a better option in my situation? I just went though several corsair and nzxt AIO since most of had some sort of constant buzzzzz that my ears are very sensitive and therefor started researching custom loops and the famous D5 Vario pump. so to answer your question I am perfectly fine to spend triple the money on a custom loop as long as I can have peace of mind that I won't have the buzzzz, whine, etc... noise that I experienced with the past few AIO coolers I bought. I am also using a Corsair H100i GTX right now as I'm typing which I sorta managed to keep quite by undervolting it to about 9v.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Money is not an issue here at all, but with risk of leaks, maintenance, etc... would it still be a better option in my situation? I just went though several corsair and nzxt AIO since most of had some sort of constant buzzzzz that my ears are very sensitive and therefor started researching custom loops and the famous D5 Vario pump. so to answer your question I am perfectly fine to spend triple the money on a custom loop as long as I can have peace of mind that I won't have the buzzzz, whine, etc... noise that I experienced with the past few AIO coolers I bought. I am also using a Corsair H100i GTX right now as I'm typing which I sorta managed to keep quite by undervolting it to about 9v.


Well in that case, pick up a full cover block for your 980ti and go with the custom loop. I know what you mean with the constant buzzing from some of the AIO pumps, but like you said... you can generally keep that pretty toned down -- especially with a more powerful standalone pump -- using a PWM controller.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Money is not an issue here at all, but with risk of leaks, maintenance, etc... would it still be a better option in my situation? I just went though several corsair and nzxt AIO since most of had some sort of constant buzzzzz that my ears are very sensitive and therefor started researching custom loops and the famous D5 Vario pump. so to answer your question I am perfectly fine to spend triple the money on a custom loop as long as I can have peace of mind that I won't have the buzzzz, whine, etc... noise that I experienced with the past few AIO coolers I bought. I am also using a Corsair H100i GTX right now as I'm typing which I sorta managed to keep quite by undervolting it to about 9v.


I'm using a Corsair H60 (for my CPU) and two H55's on my GPUs (R9 290's) and not one of them produces any pump noise that I could detect - and that's with putting my ear right up close. I keep all my fans running nice a slow at system idle, so it's not like my fans are drowning out the sound of the pumps. They're simply dead silent.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I'm using a Corsair H60 (for my CPU) and two H55's on my GPUs (R9 290's) and not one of them produces any pump noise that I could detect - and that's with putting my ear right up close. I keep all my fans running nice a slow at system idle, so it's not like my fans are drowning out the sound of the pumps. They're simply dead silent.


Make sure all of those pump speeds are mazed out as you can break the pump if they're not.


----------



## Tim Drake

Does anybody know if the HG10 will come with a faceplate? As in it's own custom one?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Money is not an issue here at all, but with risk of leaks, maintenance, etc... would it still be a better option in my situation? I just went though several corsair and nzxt AIO since most of had some sort of constant buzzzzz that my ears are very sensitive and therefor started researching custom loops and the famous D5 Vario pump. so to answer your question I am perfectly fine to spend triple the money on a custom loop as long as I can have peace of mind that I won't have the buzzzz, whine, etc... noise that I experienced with the past few AIO coolers I bought. I am also using a Corsair H100i GTX right now as I'm typing which I sorta managed to keep quite by undervolting it to about 9v.


Ive built custom loops and installed well over 100 AIO/CLCs now. There is no issue with performance IMO with the CLCs vs custom loops of the same size when tasked within the design limits. However they rarely are as people ask them to work miracles a lot of the times. When building custom loops, the builder uses much more care in the construction, routing and air circuit design than the average CLC user who just throws it in and says 5.0 ghz here i come. Water or not, its still an air cooler and should be melded into the air circuit design for that system.

As you already mentioned, benefits to CLCs include that they are relatively cheap, they are maintenance free and they are effective when care is taken to make it part of the system and not THE system for cooling. Downsides include the CLC small loop size, most could of used a better radiator but then there goes the price, the lines never seem to be quite long enough and they do in fact have a finite life span. Thats the cost of no maintenance.

However, if money is a non issue and noise is the primary issue, it seems the best thing for you to do would be to create one loop for the cpu and the gpu to keep any pump noise to a minimum.


----------



## BroHamBone

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Nylon Screw from nerdybeats link and Washer from Kraken g10 kit
http://s861.photobucket.com/user/BroHamBone/media/0926150156_zpsjjltuvu0.jpg.html
Finishing Washer used. Also, 1 setup has the soft washers from the Kraken g10 kit
http://s861.photobucket.com/user/BroHamBone/media/0926150157_zpsms8jq2ux.jpg.html
Finished product w/ all fans installed in push/pull config
http://s861.photobucket.com/user/BroHamBone/media/0926151344-1_zpsh3pgkykf.jpg.html



-Thanks nerdybeat for the hardware links
-Thanks Sorphius for the guidance

Ambient temp around case is 75F
Cold boot temps ~27C
Idle temps ~30C
Used Firestrike Extreme (1440p) on Loop for 1hr:
Open case temps on both cards topped 55C/54C w/ max voltage and +200 to core (1504mhz boosted)

Going to test closed case temps later tonight.


----------



## Siamak8286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ive built custom loops and installed well over 100 AIO/CLCs now. There is no issue with performance IMO with the CLCs vs custom loops of the same size when tasked within the design limits. However they rarely are as people ask them to work miracles a lot of the times. When building custom loops, the builder uses much more care in the construction, routing and air circuit design than the average CLC user who just throws it in and says 5.0 ghz here i come. Water or not, its still an air cooler and should be melded into the air circuit design for that system.
> 
> As you already mentioned, benefits to CLCs include that they are relatively cheap, they are maintenance free and they are effective when care is taken to make it part of the system and not THE system for cooling. Downsides include the CLC small loop size, most could of used a better radiator but then there goes the price, the lines never seem to be quite long enough and they do in fact have a finite life span. Thats the cost of no maintenance.
> 
> However, if money is a non issue and noise is the primary issue, it seems the best thing for you to do would be to create one loop for the cpu and the gpu to keep any pump noise to a minimum.


from your experience, is the D5 Vario pump silent compared to CLC pumps, I've went through pretty much every corsair CLC I could buy from local store ( H100i GTX, H105, H110GT ) and every single one has some sort of high pitch, buzzz, or something and I can not stand it unless I ramp up my fans which in that case defeats the my whole mission to have a cool and silent system.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> from your experience, is the D5 Vario pump silent compared to CLC pumps, I've went through pretty much every corsair CLC I could buy from local store ( H100i GTX, H105, H110GT ) and every single one has some sort of high pitch, buzzz, or something and I can not stand it unless I ramp up my fans which in that case defeats the my whole mission to have a cool and silent system.


Honestly the only CLCs I have noticed pump noise on is the new H75 and several of the Cooler master Seidon series pumps. Now I am not looking for total silence to be honest, but those are the only ones I was like, hmmm thats the pump making that noise. Im not particularly sensitive to pump noise. As for the D5 Vario, ive heard good and bad. They typically have multiple speed settings so there is that.

Probably be best to find someone on here whos actually using one.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nylon Screw from nerdybeats link and Washer from Kraken g10 kit
> http://s861.photobucket.com/user/BroHamBone/media/0926150156_zpsjjltuvu0.jpg.html
> Finishing Washer used. Also, 1 setup has the soft washers from the Kraken g10 kit
> http://s861.photobucket.com/user/BroHamBone/media/0926150157_zpsms8jq2ux.jpg.html
> Finished product w/ all fans installed in push/pull config
> http://s861.photobucket.com/user/BroHamBone/media/0926151344-1_zpsh3pgkykf.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> -Thanks nerdybeat for the hardware links
> -Thanks Sorphius for the guidance
> 
> Ambient temp around case is 75F
> Cold boot temps ~27C
> Idle temps ~30C
> Used Firestrike Extreme (1440p) on Loop for 1hr:
> Open case temps on both cards topped 55C/54C w/ max voltage and +200 to core (1504mhz boosted)
> 
> Going to test closed case temps later tonight.


Why nyxae you using a nylon screw?


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> Why nyxae you using a nylon screw?


Was wondering the same as I kept cursing them out during installation. They were flexible and the pressure from the hoses kept sliding the pump housing across the gpu contact area. I had to reapply paste a few times because the shim twisted more than i liked. At those times, the shim twisted almost enough creating ,in a sense, an 8pt star with the gpu die. Another time the pump house would slide the shim and become totally uncentered and unbalanced.Even aft3r installation, when position8ng the rad, the g10 kit moved a bit. It never came unseated, but twisted a bit.

Was it difficult? Maybe a tiny bit, but wasnt anything I couldnt complete.
Would I recommend these screws? Probably find an easier alternative for when i need to reapply TIM in the future.
Oh, to add closed case temps;

Ambient temp was ~75
Bo5h gpus hit 58c, which isnt bad since i was hitting 58c when testing open case and 1 card.(i had to reseat the shim on it afterward and fixed that temp)


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Make sure all of those pump speeds are mazed out as you can break the pump if they're not.


Yep, give the pumps full constant 12v.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Does anybody know if the HG10 will come with a faceplate? As in it's own custom one?


What do you mean by "faceplate"? Do you mean backplate? If so, no they don't. Here's the one I installed with an H55:


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Yep, give the pumps full constant 12v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean by "faceplate"? Do you mean backplate? If so, no they don't. Here's the one I installed with an H55:


No, I do not mean backplate.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> No, I do not mean backplate.


Any photos on something else perhaps showing what your calling a faceplate? I am having a hard time envisioning what your talking about.


----------



## skkane

Maybe something to fill up the hole next to the block, to make it look prettier. No they don't if that's what he means


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> No, I do not mean backplate.


You must be talking about the front side with the water block that is exposed then. The pic I posted is the final assembly. No additional covers. Looks fine to me, but I'm very "function over fashion".


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> You must be talking about the front side with the water block that is exposed then. The pic I posted is the final assembly. No additional covers. Looks fine to me, but I'm very "function over fashion".




That's a faceplate..


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Maybe something to fill up the hole next to the block, to make it look prettier. No they don't if that's what he means


Could probably rig up something that looks nice with a reference cooler cover.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> 
> 
> That's a faceplate..


No, that's a midplate, and it either comes pre-installed on your card or it doesn't.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> 
> 
> That's a faceplate..


Ooooh, you mean the mid-plate (well, that's what I call it anyways).









Yes, it has a mid/face plate which makes contact with all the VRMs and Vram modules, which you can see in the pic I posted. It's part of the whole bracket, it's all one piece. Here's another view with the water block out of the way:



And the back side:


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*


Did you ever run your card stock?

How much of a VRAM temp difference did it make?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Did you ever run your card stock?
> 
> How much of a VRAM temp difference did it make?


Actually running two 290's.

I did run them both with the stock coolers, just to get crossfire setup and running properly (had to remove one/both of the cards a couple times). They both hit over 90 degrees on the stock air coolers and the noise was unbearable.

There's no Vram temp sensor on my cards so I don't know for sure, but GPU core and VRM temps have dropped 30-40 degrees on both cards. I think it's safe to say the Vram runs a heck of a lot cooler as well now.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Actually running two 290's.
> 
> I did run them both with the stock coolers, just to get crossfire setup and running properly (had to remove one/both of the cards a couple times). They both hit over 90 degrees on the stock air coolers and the noise was unbearable.
> 
> There's no Vram temp sensor on my cards so I don't know for sure, but GPU core and VRM temps have dropped 30-40 degrees on both cards. I think it's safe to say the Vram runs a heck of a lot cooler as well now.


Well, it may be worth investigating buying the HG10 and modifying it to fit under my reference shroud..


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Well, it may be worth investigating buying the HG10 and modifying it to fit under my reference shroud..


It's possible, but you'd have to do a lot of cutting on the reference shroud and not sure how you'd fasten it on... Might be more work than it's worth.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Well, it may be worth investigating buying the HG10 and modifying it to fit under my reference shroud..


What's your GPU orientation? If you're installing it in a tower, the shroud will be face down anyway so you'd never see it. Just trying to figure out why having a face plate is so important to you...


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> What's your GPU orientation? If you're installing it in a tower, the shroud will be face down anyway so you'd never see it. Just trying to figure out why having a face plate is so important to you...


If I Max out my fans to keep my vram cool, I can hit +613 on memory clock, without then only 525-550


----------



## DR4G00N

This AIO on my 780 Ti has become worth it's weight in gold once I unlocked the voltage.

Currently at: *1505MHz!!* Core/ 7000MHz Mem @ 1.25V (with some artifacting) Could probably do 1450-1475 artifact free.
Max core temp while running firestrike was 49c

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/6097890


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> If I Max out my fans to keep my vram cool, I can hit +613 on memory clock, without then only 525-550


Having a cover on the GPU won't have any effect on this. The card will run much cooler as a whole with the HG10 + H55 combo anyways, plus with the blower fan and mid/face plate as part of the assembly, the memory will be running much cooler than it ever did before.

Most people who run the HG10 on reference 290's claim that 30% constant fan speed is more than enough, which I can confirm.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Having a cover on the GPU won't have any effect on this. The card will run much cooler as a whole with the HG10 + H55 combo anyways, plus with the blower fan and mid/face plate as part of the assembly, the memory will be running much cooler than it ever did before.
> 
> Most people who run the HG10 on reference 290's claim that 30% constant fan speed is more than enough, which I can confirm.


I don't think people understand mid plates..


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I don't think people understand mid plates..


I think most here know what a mid plate is and what it does, however someone was asking about a faceplate. Thus the confusion.
As for the HG-10, this is not an HG-10 thread, its a G-10 thread.


----------



## skkane

Anyone know how much voltage the led header puts out on the 780 / 980 / 980 ti cards? I'm running the G10's fan from it and it does not appear to be spinning as fast as from a normal 12v header.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Anyone know how much voltage the led header puts out on the 780 / 980 / 980 ti cards? I'm running the G10's fan from it and it does not appear to be spinning as fast as from a normal 12v header.


Why don't you use the 4 pin pwm connector instead with a Gelid adapter?


----------



## skkane

Because I ordered the wrong adapter and it only fits the smaller led header







Can't find the proper one anywhere locally. Guess the led one is only 5-9v? I'll have to run it from one of the extra fan headers on my x41 but I had it hidden nicely now :/ Too many wires coming out of that damn pump.

Had to redo the install two more times also. 1st install was perfect but I had no heatsinks for the vrms. I got some and switched the rad's around but one card did not make good contact for some reason. Eyeballing it it looked like a fine contact but idle was 5C higher on that card and insta shot up to 80-95C - throttle during load. Got it working fine again on the 3rd mount.

Having to fit your hand between these to reach for that damn PCI-e release bracket is a total nightmare. I nearly ripped the bottom card out of the slot in frustration. I wish motherboard makers would move it somewhere else or find another solution.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Ouch. Well I would actually go through all that trouble again to install the Gelid VGA Adapter, it works very nicely with MSI Afterburner.


----------



## Tim Drake

Does anyone know if the Gelid VGA Adapter could support multiple fans? Then I could use it to control maybe radiator fans as well..


----------



## 4thKor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Gelid VGA Adapter could support multiple fans? Then I could use it to control maybe radiator fans as well..


I use it with a powered (4-pin Molex) to 4-fan Gelid fan splitter on four fans on push/pull on my 120 x 240. I powered the fan on the bracket to the motherboard and set it at 75%. Works quite well!


----------



## Siamak8286

now that your cards are quite and cool, any of you notice a constant buzzz from your GTX 980 Ti ( Those who have it ) when playing Witcher 3 or GTA V or running heavy benchmark?


----------



## skkane

Yeah, that's coil whine. We can all thank Nvidia for that.

I thought my cards had no coil whine because of the loud fans before but now that the setup is silent they are buzzing in everything I play. It does not happen only in menus, all the time.

The more fps you get, the louder it gets but even at 50 fps they are buzzing.

Are the coils the round silver things on the right of the vrm's? Right where the g10 bracket ends? I did not put any thermal pads to try to improve noise on those, only on the square silver things to the left of the vrm's (R15 or something it says on them). Might have screwed up.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Yeah, that's coil whine. We can all thank Nvidia for that.
> 
> I thought my cards had no coil whine because of the loud fans before but now that the setup is silent they are buzzing in everything I play. It does not happen only in menus, all the time.
> 
> The more fps you get, the louder it gets but even at 50 fps they are buzzing.
> 
> Are the coils the round silver things on the right of the vrm's? Right where the g10 bracket ends? I did not put any thermal pads to try to improve noise on those, only on the square silver things to the left of the vrm's (R15 or something it says on them). Might have screwed up.


The little round silver things are capacitors. They can make similar noises some times. The squares are the chokes (inducers/coils) and are probably the primary source of coil whine/buzz from graphics cards.

One of my 290's has a bit of coil buzz. It's nothing to be concerned about and is quite common. More annoying than anything.


----------



## skkane

I see. Thanks for the clarification.









I already have thermal pads on the chokes so guess that's the best i can get sound wise. I think it's the evga card with high asic doing most of the racket. I got it as a present so cannot complain / take it back


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Gelid VGA Adapter could support multiple fans? Then I could use it to control maybe radiator fans as well..


I'm using it to do just that, bought noctua nf-f12 fans, they come with a splitter, and have them in push pull.


----------



## skkane

Installed my new extensions. Here are some night shots.












Spoiler: Click for more


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4thKor*
> 
> I use it with a powered (4-pin Molex) to 4-fan Gelid fan splitter on four fans on push/pull on my 120 x 240. I powered the fan on the bracket to the motherboard and set it at 75%. Works quite well!


Akasa FP5 I use. 4 rad fans + 1 for memory at an angle + G10 bracket fan. So I use an additional splitter which is fine as the 12v comes direct from PSU.


----------



## Deses

Did anyone try to mod his/her Radeon 390X?

I'm upgrading to one, but the lack of mention on the official Kraken support list and in this thread is making me a bit uneasy. :S


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> Did anyone try to mod his/her Radeon 390X?
> 
> I'm upgrading to one, but the lack of mention on the official Kraken support list and in this thread is making me a bit uneasy. :S


Depends on which 390x is in question. I would say yes it will fit (the kraken pretty much fits almost any card), but it may need extra modifications to fit depending on if the card has a backplate, midplate(faceplate) or both. May need longer screws, may not. Might need a shim, might not.

Which 390x are you planning to get?


----------



## Deses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Depends on which 390x is in question. I would say yes it will fit (the kraken pretty much fits almost any card), but it may need extra modifications to fit depending on if the card has a backplate, midplate(faceplate) or both. May need longer screws, may not. Might need a shim, might not.
> 
> Which 390x are you planning to get?


Hi MEC. I'm aware that depending on various factors I might end needing a shim, longer screws and VRM heatsinks... (which sucks to be honest! It would be cool if the Kraken included everything in the package) that's why I wondered if anyone already tried and could share his/her experiences.

I plan on getting either a MSI or a Sapphire card.

http://msi.com/product/vga/R9-390X-GAMING-8G.html#hero-specification
Pictures of the board: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/R9_390X_Gaming/3.html

Has backplate
Has midplate.
No need for a shim, I believe.
VRM heatsinks needed.

http://www.sapphiretech.com/productdetial.asp?pid=D40475DB-8BD0-40F6-8C33-F12D63272AEC&lang=eng#tab2
Pictures of the board: http://www.thinkcomputers.org/sapphire-tri-x-r9-390x-graphics-card-review/2/

No backplate
No midplate
No need for a shim, I believe.
VRM heatsinks needed.
I think I would be better served with the Sapphire one... but I'm scared of being the first one trying this and screwing it up, it's an expensive card after all.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> It would be cool if the Kraken included everything in the package


The mid plate serves does add cooling to RAM and VRM (can't hurt to get sinks on VRM too). MSI would be my choice due to this.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> The mid plate serves does add cooling to RAM and VRM (can't hurt to get sinks on VRM too). MSI would be my choice due to this.


Ive played with putting copper heatsinks on the VRAM of several GPUs and it makes no real difference in performance or OC potential. It just doesnt run that warm. A lot of GPUs come with a VRM heatsink on them. I would look for one that does this as a mid plate really just complicates things more than they need to be..


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ive played with putting copper heatsinks on the VRAM of several GPUs and it makes no real difference in performance or OC potential. It just doesnt run that warm. A lot of GPUs come with a VRM heatsink on them. I would look for one that does this as a mid plate really just complicates things more than they need to be..


http://www.apiste-global.com/enc/technology_enc/detail/id=1262

10C Twice Law. Apparently, for every 10C, you can lose up to half the components life.

But I agree, the midplate suffices. We have a user over at the MSI 980 Ti Gaming forum that measured his VRAM, and witha midplate, the VRM and VRAM were around 57C, which isn't bad at all.


----------



## KickAssCop

You do not need VRM heatsinks if there is a mid plate. My VRM on classified cards are already uncovered as stock. The mid plate covers the VRAM just fine. Adding sinks should block air flow out of the small 92 mm fan since the mid plate would be obstructed.

This whole VRM sinks nonsense is not helpful. If you don't have a mid plate then you MIGHT need VRAM sinks.


----------



## baii

I never own a high end third party/custom cooler gpu before and only just did a hg10+h60 setup on ref 290x last week but something go winky. so waiting for rma and stuff. the blower fan from the gpu is rather crappy? so I am considering switch to g10.

I want to ask do you guys if you find the aio/g10 make less noise than those 2fan/3fan design?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baii*
> 
> I
> I want to ask do you guys if you find the aio/g10 make less noise than those 2fan/3fan design?


I do. I also have the fans on the radiator on a controller where i can have it whisper quiet when im not gaming. But even under load, they arent very loud. A lot of course depends on choosing good fans, the ones that come with the corsair kits are rather loud. Same for all the other CLC/AIO setups I have installed. Some good fans go a long way in both performance and noise control.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> Hi MEC. I'm aware that depending on various factors I might end needing a shim, longer screws and VRM heatsinks... (which sucks to be honest! It would be cool if the Kraken included everything in the package) that's why I wondered if anyone already tried and could share his/her experiences.
> 
> I plan on getting either a MSI or a Sapphire card.
> 
> http://msi.com/product/vga/R9-390X-GAMING-8G.html#hero-specification
> Pictures of the board: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/R9_390X_Gaming/3.html
> 
> Has backplate
> Has midplate.
> No need for a shim, I believe.
> VRM heatsinks needed.
> 
> http://www.sapphiretech.com/productdetial.asp?pid=D40475DB-8BD0-40F6-8C33-F12D63272AEC&lang=eng#tab2
> Pictures of the board: http://www.thinkcomputers.org/sapphire-tri-x-r9-390x-graphics-card-review/2/
> 
> No backplate
> No midplate
> No need for a shim, I believe.
> VRM heatsinks needed.
> I think I would be better served with the Sapphire one... but I'm scared of being the first one trying this and screwing it up, it's an expensive card after all.


Both those cards have excellent air coolers (possibly the best 390/x coolers on the market) so if I were you, I'd try running it first on air and try setting up your own custom fan curve using MSI AB before going the route of installing a Kraken G10.

Aside from that, it looks like both cooler designs incorporate active cooling on the VRMs as part of the main heatsink assembly. This is a better design, IMO, than many of the previous 290/X cooler designs that used a smaller separate passive heatsink on the VRMs. So, you would be wise to add heatsinks to the VRMs if you do end up going with the Kraken.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> You do not need VRM heatsinks if there is a mid plate. My VRM on classified cards are already uncovered as stock. The mid plate covers the VRAM just fine. Adding sinks should block air flow out of the small 92 mm fan since the mid plate would be obstructed.
> 
> This whole VRM sinks nonsense is not helpful. If you don't have a mid plate then you MIGHT need VRAM sinks.


On the VRMs I would argue that you do need heatsinks of some sort in addition to the 92mm fan on the G10 bracket. As PCper tested this on a reference 290 some time ago, the VRMs having no additional cooling other than the fan, showed very high VRM temps. Even if you're still within the 125 degree rated limit, it's still best to keep them as cool as possible. Adding a heatsink tot he VRMs will increase the surface area where the fan is blowing so that more heat can be pulled away.

The Vram modules don't need any additional cooling unless you're planning to run high memory overclocks 24/7.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baii*
> 
> I never own a high end third party/custom cooler gpu before and only just did a hg10+h60 setup on ref 290x last week but something go winky. so waiting for rma and stuff. the blower fan from the gpu is rather crappy? so I am considering switch to g10.
> 
> I want to ask do you guys if you find the aio/g10 make less noise than those 2fan/3fan design?


The HG10 for reference cards is actually a better solution (from installation and function) for the reference 290/X's than the Kraken. So if I were you, I would stick with the HG10 + H60 you had originally setup. It'll do a better job cooling your reference card and doesn't require any additional heatsinks (it's mid plate acts as a cooler for the VRMs and Vram). As for the problem you encountered, perhaps you tightened some of the screws too much? Could you describe what happened? Maybe we can help you figure out what happened.

I know this is a Kraken G10 thread, but the HG10 really is better suited for the reference 290/X's.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I do. I also have the fans on the radiator on a controller where i can have it whisper quiet when im not gaming. But even under load, they arent very loud. A lot of course depends on choosing good fans, the ones that come with the corsair kits are rather loud. Same for all the other CLC/AIO setups I have installed. Some good fans go a long way in both performance and noise control.


Check out the Gelid VGA Fan Adapter, that will work much better for controlling. It'll use the PWM of your card, so your OC software can juse control the fan for you.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> Check out the Gelid VGA Fan Adapter, that will work much better for controlling. It'll use the PWM of your card, so your OC software can juse control the fan for you.


Yeah i purchased adapters at one point but they didnt fit. The fan header on the ASUS cards was different than the other GPUs. Regardless, I like having full control of all my fans now.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah i purchased adapters at one point but they didnt fit. The fan header on the ASUS cards was different than the other GPUs. Regardless, I like having full control of all my fans now.


I think your mobo actually has a few fan headers for PWM. You could always connect and split from those if you wanted to setup fan profiles.

I'd recommend it, as I have my fans completely off from 0C to 40C, and they ramp up 40C to 65C from 30% to 100%. It's pretty nice. I wish my mobo had more fan headers so I don't need a fan controller anymore.


----------



## Deses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Both those cards have excellent air coolers (possibly the best 390/x coolers on the market) so if I were you, I'd try running it first on air and try setting up your own custom fan curve using MSI AB before going the route of installing a Kraken G10.
> 
> Aside from that, it looks like both cooler designs incorporate active cooling on the VRMs as part of the main heatsink assembly. This is a better design, IMO, than many of the previous 290/X cooler designs that used a smaller separate passive heatsink on the VRMs. So, you would be wise to add heatsinks to the VRMs if you do end up going with the Kraken.


I would wait for the warranty to expire before going for the mod way, now I'm just making sure that If I end up doing that I'll be fine. I'm going to get the Sapphire card because is 40 € cheaper here in Spain and the performance is more or less the same than the MSI card. Surely I'll add heatsinks the day I decide to apply the Kraken again just to be extra safe.









I just have one question left. I can see the VRAM modules around the gpu core, the capacitors and the chokes, but I'm not sure how a VRM should look.







My previous card, an Asus R9 280X DCII Top had the VRM covered with separate heatsinks as you mentioned on your post.
I'm going to guess that is the stuff covered by thermal tape between the chokes and capacitors on the Sapphire card.


----------



## skkane

Yes, between the chokes and caps. Small black chips is what they should look like.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deses*
> 
> I would wait for the warranty to expire before going for the mod way, now I'm just making sure that If I end up doing that I'll be fine. I'm going to get the Sapphire card because is 40 € cheaper here in Spain and the performance is more or less the same than the MSI card. Surely I'll add heatsinks the day I decide to apply the Kraken again just to be extra safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just have one question left. I can see the VRAM modules around the gpu core, the capacitors and the chokes, but I'm not sure how a VRM should look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My previous card, an Asus R9 280X DCII Top had the VRM covered with separate heatsinks as you mentioned on your post.
> I'm going to guess that is the stuff covered by thermal tape between the chokes and capacitors on the Sapphire card.


The chokes are the line of square blocks next to the VRMs. The capacitors are all the small silver cylinders. The VRMs are the line of smaller components (MOSFETs), next to the chokes - circled in green in the image below:

(this person has placed small heatsinks on them)


The VRMs (MOSFETs) are what need to be cooled. Not the chokes or caps.







They are typically very small black or silver chips.


----------



## yenclas

Hi !

Sorry by my bad English.

Today get Kraken g10 + Corsair H55 + Noctua NF12 PWM for radiator.

I have an MSI 980 Ti oced to 1540Mhz with 1,27vcore.

This is how I install it:



My max temp in firestrike at this voltage is 63ºC. With the fan of radiator (Noctua) set at min speed

Is this ok ?

How is the best place to put the radiator in my case and how set fan os radiator (intake/exhaust) ?

Thank you very much


----------



## Tim Drake

Anybody know where to find a cheap NZXT Kraken X41 cheap in UK?

£80 is too much for me..


----------



## baii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> The HG10 for reference cards is actually a better solution (from installation and function) for the reference 290/X's than the Kraken. So if I were you, I would stick with the HG10 + H60 you had originally setup. It'll do a better job cooling your reference card and doesn't require any additional heatsinks (it's mid plate acts as a cooler for the VRMs and Vram). As for the problem you encountered, perhaps you tightened some of the screws too much? Could you describe what happened? Maybe we can help you figure out what happened.
> 
> I know this is a Kraken G10 thread, but the HG10 really is better suited for the reference 290/X's.


The main culprit on the hg10 for me is still vrm temp. I was doing +150mv @ 1200mhz, 50% blower fan ,valley easily hit 100c and going up.

Let's put heavy over clocking aside, I hate to say it but the thing is joke compare to the mid plate that come with reference card. (Too bad removing the heatsink from mid plate require the oven and much diy).

1. The vrm block on the hg10 is a separate block of metal glue to the main plate using adhesive, compare to the reference which is one piece of metal. It may not be much degradation but that doesn't give me much confidence tbh. Damn the cost cutting...

2. Vrm thremal pad is too thin? And the contact doesn't look good, which a few review find as well. Other components seem to have pretty low pressure contact as well.

3.i try swap slightly thicker pad 1mm, and the is some pcb and hg10 wrapping. Due to no mounting screw for the end of the pcb/hg10.

4. Pump mounting is eh.... a lot of wiggling = bad thermal paste, I actually find a way to help that by building a boundary for the pump so it is a straight drop.

5. Stock blower fan, I highly doubt a 74mm fan have better efficiency compare to a 92mm. and That remind me of the review of hg10 on evga forum, I really hope the 100% stock fan doesn't really mean "100%"

I think g10 + the removed mid plate from reference is the best option, but I ain't really comfortable getting in a oven etc..

I have a msi 290x gaming modded with gelid kit and g10 coming in, also happen to find a asus 7970 dcu vrm heatsink(ln2 Mos heatsink?) for 4 bucks because I found that the msi is the newer version where the vrm is not the line style like reference.

Will see how it goes. Hope the msi backplate, testing the 2 different vrm heatsink and some new thermal pad can do some magic.

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk


----------



## masteratarms

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=BU-083-TL&groupid=701&catid=2330
OcUK Tech Labs 120mm Kraken Extreme VGA Cooling Upgrade Bundle - Standard - Black Shroud

That buys you 2 fans (excluding the 92mm NZXT VRM fan cause its usually upgraded), AIO & G10 bracket. Or you can get 240mm one for £3 more. A Kraken X41 costs £75 alone from OcUK.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Hi !
> 
> Sorry by my bad English.
> 
> Today get Kraken g10 + Corsair H55 + Noctua NF12 PWM for radiator.
> 
> I have an MSI 980 Ti oced to 1540Mhz with 1,27vcore.
> 
> This is how I install it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My max temp in firestrike at this voltage is 63ºC. With the fan of radiator (Noctua) set at min speed
> 
> Is this ok ?
> 
> How is the best place to put the radiator in my case and how set fan os radiator (intake/exhaust) ?
> 
> Thank you very much


If you can, it's best to have the radiator positioned as exhaust at the back of your case. Otherwise it's letting quite a bit of hot air inside the case. Temps seem pretty good, regardless. Nice setup.


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> If you can, it's best to have the radiator positioned as exhaust at the back of your case. Otherwise it's letting quite a bit of hot air inside the case. Temps seem pretty good, regardless. Nice setup.


Thank you very much.

But if I put the radiator as exhaust at de back of your case, hot air from cpu go to radiator. This is not a problem ?

I have a problem. In Heaven 4.0 Benchmark temps go up to 70ºC at 1,27v and 1533Mhz and got artifacts





















I don't think it's OC because before I had my MSI 980 Ti at 1493Mhz with 1,200 v.

And i have a Noctua NF12-PWM fan in radiator. At low speed is silent, but if I increase it, it's loud. Which fan is best in terms of performance/noise ?

Can you help me ?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Thank you very much.
> 
> But if I put the radiator as exhaust at de back of your case, hot air from cpu go to radiator. This is not a problem ?
> 
> I have a problem. In Heaven 4.0 Benchmark temps go up to 70ºC at 1,27v and 1533Mhz and got artifacts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think it's OC because before I had my MSI 980 Ti at 1493Mhz with 1,200 v.
> 
> And i have a Noctua NF12-PWM fan in radiator. At low speed is silent, but if I increase it, it's loud. Which fan is best in terms of performance/noise ?
> 
> Can you help me ?


The heat coming from your CPU cooler is FAR less than the heat that is put out from the rad on your GPU. It will not be a problem and you'll be better off becaue you won't have the hot air from the rad being blown onto the card like you have it now - all heat will be exhausted outside the case.

Your higher temps could be because the rad is currently exhausting right onto the card. Where you have the rad now, install just a regular air flow fan blowing on the card and move the rad to exhaust at the back. I bet your GPU temps will drop by 5 degrees or more.









The type of fan and fan speed can have an impact on temps as well. I use Corsair SP120 performance edition fans on my GPU rads (1 per rad) and at about 1600rpm they are enough to keep my hot running R9 290's in the mid-50's to mid 60's under load but are not too loud. For radiators you want to use fans designed for static pressure, like the Corsair SP series. They typically have larger, flatter fan blades with smaller gaps between the blades to force the air through the dense fins of the rad. The NF12 is a pretty good rad fan and since it's PWM you should be able to easily find a speed at which it keeps the GPU cool but isn't too loud.

Like me, you have an Asus motherboard which has a pretty good program called Fan Xpert for controlling all your fans using the on board fan headers. With my setup I used this application to setup 3 different custom fan speed profiles which I can easily switch between depending on what I'm doing. For system idle and regular non-gaming use, I have the case fans set to 1000rpm and the rad fans at 800rpm - which is virtually silent sitting less than 2 feet away from me on the desk. For light gaming loads (less demanding games like Counter Strike) I have all fans set for 1200rpm - sounds like a gentle whisper, but still almost silent. For full heavy gaming loads (high demanding games) I have all fans set at 1600rpm - definitely audible but still very quiet. Should also note; my CPU fan speed is separate from the rest and runs based on CPU temps only, where as everything else runs at a fixed rpm.

So yeah, not sure how you have all your fans powered, but I'd suggest running them off your motherboard fan headers and experimenting with the Fan Xpert software to find what is a good balance between temps and noise.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Thank you very much.
> 
> But if I put the radiator as exhaust at de back of your case, hot air from cpu go to radiator. This is not a problem ?
> 
> I have a problem. In Heaven 4.0 Benchmark temps go up to 70ºC at 1,27v and 1533Mhz and got artifacts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think it's OC because before I had my MSI 980 Ti at 1493Mhz with 1,200 v.
> 
> And i have a Noctua NF12-PWM fan in radiator. At low speed is silent, but if I increase it, it's loud. Which fan is best in terms of performance/noise ?
> 
> Can you help me ?


I got better results with it intaking air. You seem to have a good amount of exhaust fans, so it shouldn't be too bad.

I believe you didn't torque cold plate on enough. Also, I ended up putting the piece of foam on the G10 bracket inbetween the board and backplate, had to slice it in half with a knife. It help put more even pressure on the chip and cold plate without it bowing too much.

Lastly, don't use those two foam pieces that came with the G10, they end up causing the cold plate to be installed unevenly, the cold plate won't make good contact the GPU.

So in short:

1. Make sure you TIM correctly.
2. Make sure you apply enough torque and use foam to apply even pressure.
3. Don't use two little rectangular foam pieces.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> I got better results with it intaking air. You seem to have a good amount of exhaust fans, so it shouldn't be too bad.


If so thats rare. There is a tremendous amount of heat generated at the radiator. Its hard to imagine a scenario where dumping all that heat into the case can drop temps.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If so thats rare. There is a tremendous amount of heat generated at the radiator. Its hard to imagine a scenario where dumping all that heat into the case can drop temps.


It's not hard to believe actually. Inlet air was coming from hot air in my case and from my CPU, this air had to be close to 65C. Outlet air was being exhausted. So 60C air was passing through my radiator.

Now I have inlet air from ambient room temperature, but it is dumping the hot air into my case. So 25C is passing over my radiator.

I do have a lot of fans though. About 200 CFM exhausting air, 150 CFM intaking amient air and 50 CFM intaking from radiator.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







EDIT: Also, if you read the instructions manual, they recommend it as a intake for the coolest temperatures possible. I'm not saying this is for everyone, but if you have enough exhaust fans, intaking the radiator should give you the coolest temperatures as it will pass cooler temperatures over the radiator.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> It's not hard to believe actually. Inlet air was coming from hot air in my case and from my CPU, this air had to be close to 65C. Outlet air was being exhausted. So 60C air was passing through my radiator.
> 
> Now I have inlet air from ambient room temperature, but it is dumping the hot air into my case. So 25C is passing over my radiator.
> 
> I do have a lot of fans though. About 200 CFM exhausting air, 150 CFM intaking amient air and 50 CFM intaking from radiator.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also, if you read the instructions manual, they recommend it as a intake for the coolest temperatures possible. I'm not saying this is for everyone, but if you have enough exhaust fans, intaking the radiator should give you the coolest temperatures as it will pass cooler temperatures over the radiator.


Oh dont get me wrong, im not saying its not working for you, i believe you if you tell me its good on your rig. As for the instructions, they are referring to it when used as a cpu cooler. The h-110 on my OC'd 4790k is on intake. The amount of heat given off pales in comparison. The gpu effectively isolates the top part of the case and I have fans on the front intakeing and back exhausting taking what heat is generated from the cpu straight out. As for the SLi 980s, after I start gaming, with 10 or 15 minutes it turns the AC on and the thermostat is located in the hall. But there is no doubt that there is no one size fits all solution.


----------



## yenclas

Tighten a bit Kraken screws and put radiator on rear case as exhaust.

One pass Unigine Heaven at 1,27v on core and fan (NF-12) at low speed. Max tem I reached was 63ºC. Completely silent except a bit the pump of H55

I'm Happy


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Tighten a bit Kraken screws and put radiator on rear case as exhaust.
> 
> One pass Unigine Heaven at 1,27v on core and fan (NF-12) at low speed. Max tem I reached was 63ºC. Completely silent except a bit the pump of H55
> 
> I'm Happy


Good, I knew it was the kraken screws. It's just really scary tightening those guys since you don't want the board to flex and bow, but a little flexing and bowing is normal.

I recommend keeping temperatures away from 65C because the our GPUs will throttle a tiny bit around those temperatures. I would turn the fan speed up a little bit, or try placing it as a intake. You'll get temps of 58C. Your CPU heatsinks look beefy, doesn't look like they'll be affected that much.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If so thats rare. There is a tremendous amount of heat generated at the radiator. Its hard to imagine a scenario where dumping all that heat into the case can drop temps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> It's not hard to believe actually. Inlet air was coming from hot air in my case and from my CPU, this air had to be close to 65C. Outlet air was being exhausted. So 60C air was passing through my radiator.
> 
> Now I have inlet air from ambient room temperature, but it is dumping the hot air into my case. So 25C is passing over my radiator.
> 
> I do have a lot of fans though. About 200 CFM exhausting air, 150 CFM intaking amient air and 50 CFM intaking from radiator.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also, if you read the instructions manual, they recommend it as a intake for the coolest temperatures possible. I'm not saying this is for everyone, but if you have enough exhaust fans, intaking the radiator should give you the coolest temperatures as it will pass cooler temperatures over the radiator.


It's not so bad to have the GPU rad as intake, so long as:

-You don't have the rad exhausting right onto or very close to the card itself (the VRMs will thank you for this).
-You have ample airflow to keep the interior temps under control and keep good air movement flowing through the case in a uniform direction.

In @SlimJ87D's case, it works fine. The GPU rad is well isolated (doesn't exhaust directly onto the card) and the case has more than enough airflow to keep temps down inside the case.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> It's not so bad to have the GPU rad as intake, so long as:
> 
> -You don't have the rad exhausting right onto or very close to the card itself (the VRMs will thank you for this).
> -You have ample airflow to keep the interior temps under control and keep good air movement flowing through the case in a uniform direction.
> 
> In @SlimJ87D's case, it works fine. The GPU rad is well isolated (doesn't exhaust directly onto the card) and the case has more than enough airflow to keep temps down inside the case.


The temps overall are going to be higher inside the case with the GPU radiator on intake, but sure you can do it and keep it within safe thermal limits. Most are going for the absolute lowest temps with this mod, but as I mentioned, im fully aware there is no one size fits all setup.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

The only problem I will probably have is dust. I have built in dust meshes on my case, but I'm sure with so much airflow, there will be dust. Will probably have to clean it out once a month.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> The only problem I will probably have is dust. I have built in dust meshes on my case, but I'm sure with so much airflow, there will be dust. Will probably have to clean it out once a month.


If you watch your temps consistently you will see when its time to clean the filters. Temps start creeping up. The 4th monitor on my system, all it does is run monitoring software. Intel OC, gpuz x 2, real temp, power consumption via the power panel software that came with the UPS and the intel cpu gadget just for kicks. Anyway, regular temp monitoring will keep you on track. I get VERY little dust inside my case.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The temps overall are going to be higher inside the case with the GPU radiator on intake, but sure you can do it and keep it within safe thermal limits. Most are going for the absolute lowest temps with this mod, but as I mentioned, im fully aware there is no one size fits all setup.


No one size fits all, indeed.

I personally prefer to have my GPU rads (2 of them) as exhaust so that temps inside my case are as low as possible. My GPUs run in the mid 50's to mid 60's under load which just fine and a very far cry from the 90+ they used to run while air cooled. lol.


----------



## gerpogi

Hello g10 owners! I currently have a xfx 390x and I am planning to get a g10 for it but I have a few concerns.

1. Will it mount without removing the gpu backplate?
2. The xfx model apparently has a faceplate for the VRAM and a separate black heatsink for the voltage regulators(?).looking at the black heatsink it looks rather long ish, will it still fit under the g10?


----------



## yenclas

Great !!!

Reseat G10 with H55 and new applied thermal paste and got 55ºC max temp in Firestrike with 1,27v at 1573Mhz !!!

Any problem if I have 1,27v with this temps ?

Got 18.400 point in 3dmark Firestrike (22.240 graphic score)


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerpogi*
> 
> Hello g10 owners! I currently have a xfx 390x and I am planning to get a g10 for it but I have a few concerns.
> 
> 1. Will it mount without removing the gpu backplate?
> 2. The xfx model apparently has a faceplate for the VRAM and a separate black heatsink for the voltage regulators(?).looking at the black heatsink it looks rather long ish, will it still fit under the g10?


Just from glancing at a few pics...

1. It might. What I would do is attempt a dry mount with the G10 back plate flipped (foam pad on the outside) to first see if the screws will be long enough to reach. If they are, then you can remove the foam pad. If not, you'll either need to get longer screws or remove the XFX backplate and assemble with the foam pad facing the back of the card.

2. It'll fit just fine under the G10. There's quite a bit of room between the bracket and the PCB and that VRM heatsink that already comes on the card is a bonus which will work nicely with the 92mm fan that comes with the G10. Just make sure that fan is blowing onto the card.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Great !!!
> 
> Reseat G10 with H55 and new applied thermal paste and got 55ºC max temp in Firestrike with 1,27v at 1573Mhz !!!
> 
> Any problem if I have 1,27v with this temps ?
> 
> Got 18.400 point in 3dmark Firestrike (22.240 graphic score)


Nice, those are around the temperatures it should be getting.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerpogi*
> 
> Hello g10 owners! I currently have a xfx 390x and I am planning to get a g10 for it but I have a few concerns.
> 
> 1. Will it mount without removing the gpu backplate?
> 2. The xfx model apparently has a faceplate for the VRAM and a separate black heatsink for the voltage regulators(?).looking at the black heatsink it looks rather long ish, will it still fit under the g10?


If it already has a back plate you can remove the foam as the back plate is already isolated from the PCB. For that matter you can just skip the NZXT backplate all together as long as the screw heads wont pull through the holes. You can use some small washers here as well if needed.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If it already has a back plate you can remove the foam as the back plate is already isolated from the PCB. For that matter you can just skip the NZXT backplate all together as long as the screw heads wont pull through the holes. You can use some small washers here as well if needed.


+1. I didn't think of that - not using the G10 back plate. Totally doable with some washers if need be.


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> Nice, those are around the temperatures it should be getting.


Opssss, 71ºC Max temp in Crysis 3


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Opssss, 71ºC Max temp in Crysis 3


Well, thats a bit higher than the G-10 setup normally sees though still well within safe margins.


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Well, thats a bit higher than the G-10 setup normally sees though still well within safe margins.


In Firestrike got 55ºC Max and 65ºC in Heaven 4.0. Seems that Crysis 3 is much demand (at 3440x1440).

And my fan speed radiator is at low speed.

Is this ok ?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> In Firestrike got 55ºC Max and 65ºC in Heaven 4.0. Seems that Crysis 3 is much demand (at 3440x1440).
> 
> And my fan speed radiator is at low speed.
> 
> Is this ok ?


You can increase your fan speed and see how much that helps. That could be the issue or it may be that the pump isnt seated correctly causing the higher temps. Or perhaps you have the lower speed on the fan to keep noise down, if so then thats cool if its your goal. The temps are still WELL within the safe limits so thats a non issue, but there does appear to be some cooling headroom left unused. Crysis is a hardware heavy game but on 3 and 4, my temps were no worse than with other games.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Bit hot. You could easily run the fan at 60% and still not hear it depending on its location.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> In Firestrike got 55ºC Max and 65ºC in Heaven 4.0. Seems that Crysis 3 is much demand (at 3440x1440).
> 
> And my fan speed radiator is at low speed.
> 
> Is this ok ?


Make sure the pump is running at full speed (12v) and increase the rad fan speed a bit if you want lower temps. Otherwise, if silence is your priority, your temps are just fine.


----------



## baii

X31 came in and the pump noise is petty horrible compare to h60, but then the fan is much better. The msi card came pre-mod, going to snap the air cooler back and see how the noise compare.

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk


----------



## yenclas

Today, starting the PC i hear water noise first 5-10 min on my Corsair H55. After 5-10min stop noise. This is normal ?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Today, starting the PC i hear water noise first 5-10 min on my Corsair H55. After 5-10min stop noise. This is normal ?


Yeah, it's just air bubbles moving through the pump. Nothing to be worried about.

Though to help make it go away, rotate the radiator clockwise by 90 degrees so the tubes are at the bottom if possible. The air bubbles will then get trapped in the rad and you won't likely hear it again unless you move the rad around.


----------



## anti-duck

Hi









I've just used EVGA step up to go from a GTX 970 to a 980 Ti, which should arrive on Thursday. Anyway, I wanted to get a Kraken G10 to whack on it and I'm just wondering about compatibility, it's the EVGA GTX 980 Ti ACX 2.0+ (I think it's physically exactly the same as the 980 Ti SC ACX 2.0+), would I need to use a shim? Also, does anyone know if this card has a heatspreader/mid-plate? Finally, is the Corsair H90 compatible?


----------



## bagoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've just used EVGA step up to go from a GTX 970 to a 980 Ti, which should arrive on Thursday. Anyway, I wanted to get a Kraken G10 to whack on it and I'm just wondering about compatibility, it's the EVGA GTX 980 Ti ACX 2.0+ (I think it's physically exactly the same as the 980 Ti SC ACX 2.0+), would I need to use a shim? Also, does anyone know if this card has a heatspreader/mid-plate? Finally, is the Corsair H90 compatible?


Yes, to all your questions.


----------



## bunta714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've just used EVGA step up to go from a GTX 970 to a 980 Ti, which should arrive on Thursday. Anyway, I wanted to get a Kraken G10 to whack on it and I'm just wondering about compatibility, it's the EVGA GTX 980 Ti ACX 2.0+ (I think it's physically exactly the same as the 980 Ti SC ACX 2.0+), would I need to use a shim? Also, does anyone know if this card has a heatspreader/mid-plate? Finally, is the Corsair H90 compatible?


Wrote up some info about my personal experiences using the G10 with several EVGA cards here:

http://forums.evga.com/Kraken-G10-and-ACX-20-980-Ti-m2372025.aspx


----------



## anti-duck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> Yes, to all your questions.


Short and sweet, thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunta714*
> 
> Wrote up some info about my personal experiences using the G10 with several EVGA cards here:
> 
> http://forums.evga.com/Kraken-G10-and-ACX-20-980-Ti-m2372025.aspx


Perfect! That basically covers everything


----------



## SirKnight7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've just used EVGA step up to go from a GTX 970 to a 980 Ti, which should arrive on Thursday. Anyway, I wanted to get a Kraken G10 to whack on it and I'm just wondering about compatibility, it's the EVGA GTX 980 Ti ACX 2.0+ (I think it's physically exactly the same as the 980 Ti SC ACX 2.0+), would I need to use a shim? Also, does anyone know if this card has a heatspreader/mid-plate? Finally, is the Corsair H90 compatible?


I have a 980 Ti SC ACX 2.0 (EVGA 06G-P4-4995-KR) and the G10 mod works great. After mounting it 3 different ways (with stock Mid & Back-Plate, BP only, and modified MP & stock BP) I have had the best results with the modded mid-plate option. What I did was cut away the tabs on the mid-plate around the GPU socket so that I did not need a shim. I'm sure good results are possible with the right shim, but I went for direct contact instead. The shim I originally tried was 1.2 mm slightly finished with 1500 grit. This didn't allow me to get good contact and temps were in low-mid 60s @1500 core at load. Post mid-plate modification, I don't even get to 50C. I guess what I'm getting at here is: make sure you have a thick enough shim or mod the mid-plate. I wouldn't run without the MP because VRAM and VRM need something to absorb all the heat. Another thing I did was to replace the thermal padding all over the card with 1.5 mm so that it actually bridges the gap between the PCB and the MP/BP, unlike the stock padding in most situations. Anyway, hope this helps someone.


----------



## 4thKor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirKnight7*
> 
> I have a 980 Ti SC ACX 2.0 (EVGA 06G-P4-4995-KR) and the G10 mod works great. After mounting it 3 different ways (with stock Mid & Back-Plate, BP only, and modified MP & stock BP) I have had the best results with the modded mid-plate option. What I did was cut away the tabs on the mid-plate around the GPU socket so that I did not need a shim. I'm sure good results are possible with the right shim, but I went for direct contact instead. The shim I originally tried was 1.2 mm slightly finished with 1500 grit. This didn't allow me to get good contact and temps were in low-mid 60s @1500 core at load. Post mid-plate modification, I don't even get to 50C. I guess what I'm getting at here is: make sure you have a thick enough shim or mod the mid-plate. I wouldn't run without the MP because VRAM and VRM need something to absorb all the heat. Another thing I did was to replace the thermal padding all over the card with 1.5 mm so that it actually bridges the gap between the PCB and the MP/BP, unlike the stock padding in most situations. Anyway, hope this helps someone.


I agree 100%. I had a shim on my 770 Classy to avoid modding the midplate and temps were running in low to mid 60's. Did away with the shim and cut the tabs off and temps are now in low to mid 50's. These temps are with 100% GPU usage while Folding @ 1280mhz. I thought the shim would hurt a little on temps, but didn't realize how much!
Also ditto on replacing the thermal pads. I used 3M, which is probably the best out there.

I have also done away with the AIO and reinstalled the stock cooler. Temps are in the mid 60's with no issues as far as the missing tabs go.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirKnight7*
> 
> I have a 980 Ti SC ACX 2.0 (EVGA 06G-P4-4995-KR) and the G10 mod works great. After mounting it 3 different ways (with stock Mid & Back-Plate, BP only, and modified MP & stock BP) I have had the best results with the modded mid-plate option. What I did was cut away the tabs on the mid-plate around the GPU socket so that I did not need a shim. I'm sure good results are possible with the right shim, but I went for direct contact instead. The shim I originally tried was 1.2 mm slightly finished with 1500 grit. This didn't allow me to get good contact and temps were in low-mid 60s @1500 core at load. Post mid-plate modification, I don't even get to 50C. I guess what I'm getting at here is: make sure you have a thick enough shim or mod the mid-plate. I wouldn't run without the MP because VRAM and VRM need something to absorb all the heat. Another thing I did was to replace the thermal padding all over the card with 1.5 mm so that it actually bridges the gap between the PCB and the MP/BP, unlike the stock padding in most situations. Anyway, hope this helps someone.


Could you show me these tabs? I am looking to do the same thing with my reference card


----------



## SirKnight7

Here's an image with the cut locations marked in Red. I used a jigsaw with a fine toothed metal cutting blade and cut from the underside of the plate so that any imperfections would not show if I scratched the surface. After the cuts I hit the rough edges with a file.

I wish EVGA would stop using this design, I know the MSI 980Ti Lightning mid-plate is square like this from the factory. Think before you do this and be sure you are going to keep your card because there's no going back. Not sure how EVGA feels about this harmless change in terms of warranty either.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirKnight7*
> 
> Here's an image with the cut locations marked in Red. I used a jigsaw with a fine toothed metal cutting blade and cut from the underside of the plate so that any imperfections would not show if I scratched the surface. After the cuts I hit the rough edges with a file.
> 
> I wish EVGA would stop using this design, I know the MSI 980Ti Lightning mid-plate is square like this from the factory. Think before you do this and be sure you are going to keep your card because there's no going back. Not sure how EVGA feels about this harmless change in terms of warranty either.


I think if you go modifying it in that manner you have to assume the factory warranty will be void. Now dont get me wrong, EVGA has shocked a lot of people with the things they have covered, their customer service rep is well deserved, just saying, it seems logical to assume the warranty is over should one go cutting on it.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I think if you go modifying it in that manner you have to assume the factory warranty will be void. Now dont get me wrong, EVGA has shocked a lot of people with the things they have covered, their customer service rep is well deserved, just saying, it seems logical to assume the warranty is over should one go cutting on it.


^^

I've used the G10 with both a 980ti SC ACX and with a 980ti KPE, and just used a 25x25x1.5mm copper shim as a standoff. I tried a 1.2mm first, but as someone pointed out earlier, it doesn't give enough clearance to get good contact. As best I can tell, the EVGA midplate is pretty much EXACTLY 1.2mm thick, meaning that with the 1.2mm shim the AIO's heatplate ended up flush with both the shim and the midplate, leading to reduced performance. When I replaced the 1.2mm shim with a 1.5mm one, my temps dropped from mid-60s to low 50s. If you choose to go the shim route, there are some on ebay that are 25x25.1.5mm and were cut specifically to use with the G10.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> ^^
> 
> I've used the G10 with both a 980ti SC ACX and with a 980ti KPE, and just used a 25x25x1.5mm copper shim as a standoff. I tried a 1.2mm first, but as someone pointed out earlier, it doesn't give enough clearance to get good contact. As best I can tell, the EVGA midplate is pretty much EXACTLY 1.2mm thick, meaning that with the 1.2mm shim the AIO's heatplate ended up flush with both the shim and the midplate, leading to reduced performance. When I replaced the 1.2mm shim with a 1.5mm one, my temps dropped from mid-60s to low 50s. If you choose to go the shim route, there are some on ebay that are 25x25.1.5mm and were cut specifically to use with the G10.


Im in complete agreement that if you can shave 10 degrees off, do it. There was simply talk of warranty and im pretty sure that any cutting will void it is all I was trying to say. Im obviously not one of those people that worries to much about warranty.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> ^^
> 
> I've used the G10 with both a 980ti SC ACX and with a 980ti KPE, and just used a 25x25x1.5mm copper shim as a standoff. I tried a 1.2mm first, but as someone pointed out earlier, it doesn't give enough clearance to get good contact. As best I can tell, the EVGA midplate is pretty much EXACTLY 1.2mm thick, meaning that with the 1.2mm shim the AIO's heatplate ended up flush with both the shim and the midplate, leading to reduced performance. When I replaced the 1.2mm shim with a 1.5mm one, my temps dropped from mid-60s to low 50s. If you choose to go the shim route, there are some on ebay that are 25x25.1.5mm and were cut specifically to use with the G10.


When you say shim, do you mean you have a piece of copper inbetween the GPU and cold plate?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> When you say shim, do you mean you have a piece of copper inbetween the GPU and cold plate?


Yes. Otherwise the aio just rests on the mid-plate.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Yes. Otherwise the aio just rests on the mid-plate.


IC, it's a inefficient way to transfer heat from a thermal circuit standpoint, but you got to do what you got to do.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> IC, it's a inefficient way to transfer heat from a thermal circuit standpoint, but you got to do what you got to do.


Unless you want to either good your EVGA warranty by cutting the midplate, or buy a different brand that doesn't have the same clearance issue, yeah... Pretty much. Its not ideal, but you play the hand you're dealt.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Unless you want to either good your EVGA warranty by cutting the midplate, or buy a different brand that doesn't have the same clearance issue, yeah... Pretty much. Its not ideal, but you play the hand you're dealt.


What about taking the midplate off and using heatsinks on the VRM and VRAMs instead?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> What about taking the midplate off and using heatsinks on the VRM and VRAMs instead?


That works too. Personally, I don't trust thermal tape to hold them on so I went with the shim.


----------



## Ultisym

I would take the little extra temps over fooling with the thermal tape too if I had the choice. The temps are a bit higher with the shim but they are still quite good. Now if you can get a vrm heatsink that secures through holes in the pcb (some have them precut, some dont and some come with the vrm heatsink attached to the pcb already) i would consider it. The vram isnt a big deal. VRM cooling is.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> That works too. Personally, I don't trust thermal tape to hold them on so I went with the shim.


Or next time go MSI







, jk.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> Or next time go MSI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , jk.


Dat warranty though.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Dat warranty though.


If you live in US, it's not a problem. I think it's a problem for Australia. But people do warranty exchanges with MSI even with custom loops. If you're really worried, people also just use needle nose pliers and turn the side of the screw since the screws are only hand tight.

EDIT: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=174490.0


----------



## hugoolly

Hey guys,

Trying to decide whether its worth going water for GPU cooling.
Has anyone used the NZXT G10 on an ASUS R9 390 DCU2?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hugoolly*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Trying to decide whether its worth going water for GPU cooling.
> Has anyone used the NZXT G10 on an ASUS R9 390 DCU2?


Do it.
My GTX 780 Ti @ 1405MHz 1.25V peaks at 47c under load.









There should be no problems with using it on a R9 390.


----------



## emmegio

Hi everybody,
I'm new to the forum, I read part of the thread because I'm about to be an owner of the G10 (I'll receive it tomorrow







)

I'm writing to ask you some advices, I have a 280x Toxic. I'm obviously going to remove the tri-x cooler but I'm a bit worried about the vrms, do you think I should also need some heatsinks?

Also, with a budget of 100$, what Aio should I buy?
I want a good compromise between performance and silence.

I'll definitely post the pictures of everything after I've installed it. (I have a Phantom 410 in case you were wondering).

Cheers!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emmegio*
> 
> Hi everybody,
> I'm new to the forum, I read part of the thread because I'm about to be an owner of the G10 (I'll receive it tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I'm writing to ask you some advices, I have a 280x Toxic. I'm obviously going to remove the tri-x cooler but I'm a bit worried about the vrms, do you think I should also need some heatsinks?
> 
> Also, with a budget of 100$, what Aio should I buy?
> I want a good compromise between performance and silence.
> 
> I'll definitely post the pictures of everything after I've installed it. (I have a Phantom 410 in case you were wondering).
> 
> Cheers!


Most people go with the Corsair H55 or some other 120mm equivalent. Just make sure whatever you get has the ASETEK mounting system.That will leave you some extra cash to get quieter fans should you want them. I run H90s which are a 140mm variant.
The VRMs need a heatsink. If your GPU doesnt have one built onto the PCB then you will need to add one.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emmegio*
> 
> Hi everybody,
> I'm writing to ask you some advices, I have a 280x Toxic. I'm obviously going to remove the tri-x cooler but I'm a bit worried about the vrms, do you think I should also need some heatsinks?



Provided that's your card, the VRMs should be fine. Just make sure that those heatsinks are actually stuck on with thermal adhesive and not simply resting on the PCB.


----------



## emmegio

Ok, if that's the case, good job Sapphire!









I'm also buying some heatsinks for the vram (I am getting them for free with the g10 actually







)

Is the h90 quiet?
I could buy it for 80 € right now, so if it's good I'll get it right away!


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emmegio*
> 
> Is the h90 quiet?
> I could buy it for 80 € right now, so if it's good I'll get it right away!


Quiet is subjective, so it's hard to say. The stock Corsair fan is quite loud, but I mounted a Noctua 2000rpm industrial PWM fan on mine and it's pretty much silent up to about 50%, and only really starts to scream over 75% or so.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emmegio*
> 
> Ok, if that's the case, good job Sapphire!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also buying some heatsinks for the vram (I am getting them for free with the g10 actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Is the h90 quiet?
> I could buy it for 80 € right now, so if it's good I'll get it right away!


I dumped the fans that came with the H90 and installed quieter fans. They do the job and you can adjust the power down to a quiet level at the sacrifice of a degree or two temp. But in general, the fans that come with any of the AIOs are not going to have been picked for their noise level but their ability to do the job.


----------



## emmegio

I've found an offer for the KUHLER 950, I've read some reviews and they're good. Should I go with it?

Edit: nevermind, it's not compatible with the G10.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emmegio*
> 
> I've found an offer for the KUHLER 950, I've read some reviews and they're good. Should I go with it?
> 
> Edit: nevermind, it's not compatible with the G10.


You need one of the units with a round pump, like Zalman.


----------



## emmegio

Bought the h90, it'll arrive tomorrow (I love you, Amazon Prime).
I'm going to install everything this week-end and post some pictures.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> You need one of the units with a round pump, like Zalman.


That's sort of misleading because a lot of CLC/AIO coolers have a "round" pump/block, _including_ the Kuhler 950. *What you need is a CLC with a traditional Asetek design--round pump/block with the "teeth" around it.* Lots will work but the Kuher 950 isn't one of them. The older Kuhlers--the 620, 920, and 1220--will work fine though.


----------



## Ultisym

Crap...NM


----------



## anti-duck

Ok, So I have my Kraken G10 coming next week, I've also gone for a 25x25x1.5mm shim, a Corsair H90 with 2 140mm
Alpenföhn Wing Boost 2 fans, and a Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2 92mm fan. So the correct method to apply the shim (as dodgy as it sounds) is - TIM>shim>TIM>bang on the H90? And should I apply TIM to the top of the shim using the pea method or a cross pattern?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> Ok, So I have my Kraken G10 coming next week, I've also gone for a 25x25x1.5mm shim, a Corsair H90 with 2 140mm
> Alpenföhn Wing Boost 2 fans, and a Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2 92mm fan. So the correct method to apply the shim (as dodgy as it sounds) is - TIM>shim>TIM>bang on the H90? And should I apply TIM to the top of the shim using the pea method or a cross pattern?


You are correct. Use whichever method you prefer just be careful not to put too much on there. And use a non conducting TIM. Sounds like you got the idea and process of installation covered.







Make sure the pump is plugged in and getting a full 12V with a MB fan header or a PSU cable with adapter and your good to go. The best way to mount the radiator is with the fans exhausting from the case. You will be amazed how much heat it throws out.


----------



## anti-duck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You are correct. Use whichever method you prefer just be careful not to put too much on there. And use a non conducting TIM. Sounds like you got the idea and process of installation covered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure the pump is plugged in and getting a full 12V with a MB fan header or a PSU cable with adapter and your good to go. The best way to mount the radiator is with the fans exhausting from the case. You will be amazed how much heat it throws out.


Well I'm an Arctic MX-4 fanboy lol







The only part I'm a tiny bit worried about is mounting the H90 onto the shim, I feel like the shim is going to slide all over the place, but it'll probably all make sense when it gets here.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> Well I'm an Arctic MX-4 fanboy lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only part I'm a tiny bit worried about is mounting the H90 onto the shim, I feel like the shim is going to slide all over the place, but it'll probably all make sense when it gets here.


You will be fine, watch the video over at the NZXT site. The installation is really straight forward, even with the shim involved. MX-4 is my TIM of choice too.
https://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html


----------



## Enterprise24

Hello everyone. First sorry for my bad English. I am new to this club. Tomorrow Kraken G10 and X40 should arrive to me.
My current setup is
i7-2600K @ 4.41Ghz with Arctic MX-4
CM V6GT stock fan
NZXT H440 white with stock fan
Zotac GTX 780 Ti amp with coollaboratory liquid pro (this reduce temp from stock TIM by 4C). I can run valley or firestrike at 1301Mhz / 1952Mhz 1.212V with Skyn3t bios. In gaming I have to use stock voltage 1.187V because overheating which archive 1203Mhz / 1907Mhz.

Here is my question
1.I live in Thailand and have 3 seasons in summer ambient temp can go up to 38C in rainy upto around 34C and in winter upto 32C. My case is NZXT H440 and high ambient temp combine with very limited ventilation and open air cooler VGA turn my case into oven. I must remove front and side panel which lower VGA temp by around 12C and CPU temp by around 10C. I think V6GT is really suffer from heat that VGA put out.
So I buy a used G10 and X40. Question is where should I place radiator ?
My case front and top panel has very limit ventilation
- Front as intake because radiator will receive fresh air (but may leave CPU temp high).
- Rear as exhaust because heat from VGA is much and should make it put out easily. Will radiator suffer from heat from V6GT ?
- Top as exhaust. Not receive heat directly from V6GT but it might not exhaust efficiently like rear due to very limited ventilation.
2.My Zotac 780 Ti is already have VRAM plate and VRM heatsink. So I don't have to buy anything else ?



3.I notice when run valley at 1301Mhz 1.212V if GPU temp > 65C it will start artifact (black triangle / black line). I am not sure is this cause by core temp or VRM temp ? I don't have thermal gun.
I will try G10+X40 tomorrow to see if massively lower core temp will stop artifact or simply because GPU is not stable at that clock.


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> Hello everyone. First sorry for my bad English. I am new to this club. Tomorrow Kraken G10 and X40 should arrive to me.
> My current setup is
> i7-2600K @ 4.41Ghz with Arctic MX-4
> CM V6GT stock fan
> NZXT H440 white with stock fan
> Zotac GTX 780 Ti amp with coollaboratory liquid pro (this reduce temp from stock TIM by 4C). I can run valley or firestrike at 1301Mhz / 1952Mhz 1.212V with Skyn3t bios. In gaming I have to use stock voltage 1.187V because overheating which archive 1203Mhz / 1907Mhz.
> 
> Here is my question
> 1.I live in Thailand and have 3 seasons in summer ambient temp can go up to 38C in rainy upto around 34C and in winter upto 32C. My case is NZXT H440 and high ambient temp combine with very limited ventilation and open air cooler VGA turn my case into oven. I must remove front and side panel which lower VGA temp by around 12C and CPU temp by around 10C. I think V6GT is really suffer from heat that VGA put out.
> So I buy a used G10 and X40. Question is where should I place radiator ?
> My case front and top panel has very limit ventilation
> - Front as intake because radiator will receive fresh air (but may leave CPU temp high).
> - Rear as exhaust because heat from VGA is much and should make it put out easily. Will radiator suffer from heat from V6GT ?
> - Top as exhaust. Not receive heat directly from V6GT but it might not exhaust efficiently like rear due to very limited ventilation.
> 2.My Zotac 780 Ti is already have VRAM plate and VRM heatsink. So I don't have to buy anything else ?
> 
> 
> 
> 3.I notice when run valley at 1301Mhz 1.212V if GPU temp > 65C it will start artifact (black triangle / black line). I am not sure is this cause by core temp or VRM temp ? I don't have thermal gun.
> I will try G10+X40 tomorrow to see if massively lower core temp will stop artifact or simply because GPU is not stable at that clock.


best to place the radiator in the rear this way the hot air will exhaust out ... i do know that h440 has a bit of a ventilation problem so you should try tinkering around as well to see what teh best setup for you really..


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> best to place the radiator in the rear this way the hot air will exhaust out ... i do know that h440 has a bit of a ventilation problem so you should try tinkering around as well to see what teh best setup for you really..


This , you are going to want to dump all the gpu heat out of the case by having it on exhaust. Its not always the best scenario for CPUs, You have to play around some and find the best setup for that. But the GPU puts off so much heat it is almost always best set as exhaust.


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> Hello everyone. First sorry for my bad English. I am new to this club. Tomorrow Kraken G10 and X40 should arrive to me.
> My current setup is
> i7-2600K @ 4.41Ghz with Arctic MX-4
> CM V6GT stock fan
> NZXT H440 white with stock fan
> Zotac GTX 780 Ti amp with coollaboratory liquid pro (this reduce temp from stock TIM by 4C). I can run valley or firestrike at 1301Mhz / 1952Mhz 1.212V with Skyn3t bios. In gaming I have to use stock voltage 1.187V because overheating which archive 1203Mhz / 1907Mhz.
> 
> Here is my question
> 1.I live in Thailand and have 3 seasons in summer ambient temp can go up to 38C in rainy upto around 34C and in winter upto 32C. My case is NZXT H440 and high ambient temp combine with very limited ventilation and open air cooler VGA turn my case into oven. I must remove front and side panel which lower VGA temp by around 12C and CPU temp by around 10C. I think V6GT is really suffer from heat that VGA put out.
> So I buy a used G10 and X40. Question is where should I place radiator ?
> My case front and top panel has very limit ventilation
> - Front as intake because radiator will receive fresh air (but may leave CPU temp high).
> - Rear as exhaust because heat from VGA is much and should make it put out easily. Will radiator suffer from heat from V6GT ?
> - Top as exhaust. Not receive heat directly from V6GT but it might not exhaust efficiently like rear due to very limited ventilation.
> 2.My Zotac 780 Ti is already have VRAM plate and VRM heatsink. So I don't have to buy anything else ?
> 
> 
> 
> 3.I notice when run valley at 1301Mhz 1.212V if GPU temp > 65C it will start artifact (black triangle / black line). I am not sure is this cause by core temp or VRM temp ? I don't have thermal gun.
> I will try G10+X40 tomorrow to see if massively lower core temp will stop artifact or simply because GPU is not stable at that clock.


Up top as exhaust if your case allows it. If not, rear exhaust behind the cpu. Having it a front intake will only heat up your components even more dumping all that 40-45C (no idea how much heat a 780 ti generates) inside the case.

Le: the ventilation will be provided by the radiator fan. Mount it up top if it fits. Hot air goes up.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Up top as exhaust if your case allows it. If not, rear exhaust behind the cpu. Having it a front intake will only heat up your components even more dumping all that 40-45C (no idea how much heat a 780 ti generates) inside the case.


^This definitely. I have an H75 as rear exhaust on my 780 Ti, the highest core temp I've seen was 55c @ 1505MHz 1.275V. Mind I don't really have anything that generates a lot of heat inside my case other than the H75 and H110 which are both exhaust.


----------



## Enterprise24

Thanks everyone tomorrow I will try rear as exhaust and report temp back.
@ DR4G00N what is your fire strike graphics score with your 780 Ti @ 1505Mhz ?


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> This , you are going to want to dump all the gpu heat out of the case by having it on exhaust. Its not always the best scenario for CPUs, You have to play around some and find the best setup for that. But the GPU puts off so much heat it is almost always best set as exhaust.


Try to go for a push pull setup if possible. I mount it as intake and found this setup to have the best temps. But I also have 2 top exhaust fans so that helps get rid of the heat. If you don't have much ventilation, then i guess an exhaust setup may be the better option.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> Thanks everyone tomorrow I will try rear as exhaust and report temp back.
> @ DR4G00N what is your fire strike graphics score with your 780 Ti @ 1505Mhz ?


It was 14152 points on my last run with 353.49 drivers. I'd do a run right now but Win 10 keeps forcibly updating to 353.54 which can't do as high of an oc (1505 @ 1.275V crashes instantly).

337.88 seems to give the best performance for kepler though, people hit 14500+ @ 1200-1300MHz.


----------



## Enterprise24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> It was 14152 points on my last run with 353.49 drivers. I'd do a run right now but Win 10 keeps forcibly updating to 353.54 which can't do as high of an oc (1505 @ 1.275V crashes instantly).
> 
> 337.88 seems to give the best performance for kepler though, people hit 14500+ @ 1200-1300MHz.


Thanks for info. I think I have same problem like you.
My 780 Ti @ 1301Mhz/1952Mhz @ 1.212V with latest 358.50 driver give me 14343 graphics score.
I try unlock voltage further via increase voltage slider in Kepler Bios Tweaker to 1.3V then I try "Overboost" in Precision X so I can control voltage anywhere between 1.212V-1.3V.

With 355.XX driver (can't remember) I run firestrike at 1350-1360Mhz (I try several voltage) but graphics score is ALWAYS worst than 1301Mhz 1.212V. Even if I reset Precision X to default and back to 1301Mhz 1.212V graphics score will still less than normal score.

This issue is simply solved by restart though.

I also try 1.3V softmod Afterburner with LLC but I ALWAYS get crazy artifact when I start benchmarking even at 1301 1.212V.

Maybe reference PCB is not suitable for overvolting more than 1.212V


----------



## Enterprise24

Report back. I place radiator at rear and move rear fan to top. More than happy with the result 1hr. of GTA V 780 Ti @ 1259Mhz 1.212V temp max out at just 60C (ambient temp 32C). CPU also reduce by 7-8C from 80C to 73C. I can also bench Valley and Firestrike at 1322Mhz with no artifact at all. Anything beyond this when temp hit 50C it will crash.


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> Report back. I place radiator at rear and move rear fan to top. More than happy with the result 1hr. of GTA V 780 Ti @ 1259Mhz 1.212V temp max out at just 60C (ambient temp 32C). CPU also reduce by 7-8C from 80C to 73C. I can also bench Valley and Firestrike at 1322Mhz with no artifact at all. Anything beyond this when temp hit 50C it will crash.


sounds pretty good for 32 degrees ambient

My ambient is 20-25 and my max temps are around high 50's (my case is in a corner where there is a little amount of airflow)


----------



## Enterprise24

I forgot to mention. I have to set fan on Kraken X40 to 100% to archive 60C. If I set fan auto temp will quickly rise to 70C. Sound like heat is stuck at radiator too much. Will push-pull config help much ?


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> I forgot to mention. I have to set fan on Kraken X40 to 100% to archive 60C. If I set fan auto temp will quickly rise to 70C. Sound like heat is stuck at radiator too much. Will push-pull config help much ?


You could try remounting.

Maybe thermal paste application is bad?

Max out the pump as well.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> Try to go for a push pull setup if possible. I mount it as intake and found this setup to have the best temps. But I also have 2 top exhaust fans so that helps get rid of the heat. If you don't have much ventilation, then i guess an exhaust setup may be the better option.


This worked best for me as well.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> I forgot to mention. I have to set fan on Kraken X40 to 100% to archive 60C. If I set fan auto temp will quickly rise to 70C. Sound like heat is stuck at radiator too much. Will push-pull config help much ?


For you, you sound like you didn't TIM properly or you didn't torque the fasteners enough to make good contact with the GPU.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> I forgot to mention. I have to set fan on Kraken X40 to 100% to archive 60C. If I set fan auto temp will quickly rise to 70C. Sound like heat is stuck at radiator too much. Will push-pull config help much ?


I agree with the others that you most likely do not have good contact between the cold block and the CPU. Verify that your fan and pump have a good 12v connection. If they are at 100% 12V then I would try and reseat it next. When/if you do reseat it, take a snap shot of the bottom of the cold plate BEFORE you clean it to install new TIM so we can see what the contact pattern looks like. As for Push/pull it is helpful if you are really needing that 1 or 2C extra. But thats all its really good for.

You will have way better results choosing a better fan than push pull. Still, this is not your problem, your temps should be lower than they are.


----------



## Enterprise24

I have try re appy TIM and reseating pump but still no improvement.
I think I found the problem. I install CAM and if I set silence profile in fan xpert2 pump will run at just 1200rpm !!! cause GPU temp to reach 70C while playing GTA V. If I set fan manually to 50% pump wil run at 2040rpm. If I set fan to full speed pump will run at 3000rpm.
I really want pump to always run at 3000rpm (because I can't hear it at all) but want to adjust fan speed as well.
My pump cable connect to this



Pump cable is too short. I can't connect it to fan hub from case. If I can I think pump will always run at full speed.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> I have try re appy TIM and reseating pump but still no improvement.
> I think I found the problem. I install CAM and if I set silence profile in fan xpert2 pump will run at just 1200rpm !!! cause GPU temp to reach 70C while playing GTA V. If I set fan manually to 50% pump wil run at 2040rpm. If I set fan to full speed pump will run at 3000rpm.
> I really want pump to always run at 3000rpm (because I can't hear it at all) but want to adjust fan speed as well.
> My pump cable connect to this
> 
> 
> 
> Pump cable is too short. I can't connect it to fan hub from case. If I can I think pump will always run at full speed.


Get a MOLEX->fan adapter and use it to connect the pump directly to your power supply.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> I have try re appy TIM and reseating pump but still no improvement.
> I think I found the problem. I install CAM and if I set silence profile in fan xpert2 pump will run at just 1200rpm !!! cause GPU temp to reach 70C while playing GTA V. If I set fan manually to 50% pump wil run at 2040rpm. If I set fan to full speed pump will run at 3000rpm.
> I really want pump to always run at 3000rpm (because I can't hear it at all) but want to adjust fan speed as well.
> My pump cable connect to this
> 
> 
> 
> Pump cable is too short. I can't connect it to fan hub from case. If I can I think pump will always run at full speed.


Ok this is what we meant when we said verify your 12V connection. Go into your bios and manually set that fan header to stay running at 100%V 24/7. What does ASUS call it ? Turbo? This way there is no need to fool with fan xpert in the windows environment. The pump needs to run at 100%


----------



## Enterprise24

Thank you everyone. I try put pump header into cha_fan1 and put X40 fan to it's own fan header. Now I can enjoy gaming with low noise. I set fan profile in CAM to sillent mode which is max out at 55% (1380RPM) and temp max out at 62C with 28C ambient temp so delta T = 34 compare to previous max fan speed 60C at 32C ambient delta T = 28C. Different = 6C not bad.









Another question I saw liquid temperature of Kraken X40 reach 59C in CAM is it dangerously ? What temp is consider dangerous ? Is high temp can cause leak ? . I concern because 59C is show as red font.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enterprise24*
> 
> Thank you everyone. I try put pump header into cha_fan1 and put X40 fan to it's own fan header. Now I can enjoy gaming with low noise. I set fan profile in CAM to sillent mode which is max out at 55% (1380RPM) and temp max out at 62C with 28C ambient temp so delta T = 34 compare to previous max fan speed 60C at 32C ambient delta T = 28C. Different = 6C not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question I saw liquid temperature of Kraken X40 reach 59C in CAM is it dangerously ? What temp is consider dangerous ? Is high temp can cause leak ? . I concern because 59C is show as red font.


59C should be fine, you want to stay out of the range at which the liquid will vaporise (boil) so I'd say if you're below 90C peak you should still be okay; preferably for long term use you'd want to be below 85C I'd say, but it seems like you are well below that anyway so you should be good.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> 59C should be fine, you want to stay out of the range at which the liquid will vaporise (boil) so I'd say if you're below 90C peak you should still be okay; preferably for long term use you'd want to be below 85C I'd say, but it seems like you are well below that anyway so you should be good.


It's a 3:1 ratio of water and ethylene glycol I think, you don't have to worry about it all since it won't start boiling till 140-150C, if not higher.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> 59C should be fine, you want to stay out of the range at which the liquid will vaporise (boil) so I'd say if you're below 90C peak you should still be okay; preferably for long term use you'd want to be below 85C I'd say, but it seems like you are well below that anyway so you should be good.


I've had both my 290's with H55's hit 90C+ when I forgot to turn up the rad fans while gaming. 800rpm isn't enough apparently, lol. But it was no problem, they can take quite high temps without failing so don't worry.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

If you're worried about liquid temps, why not max the fan out? Aren't 140mm fans more silent than 120mm ones? I know mine are in my case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I've had both my 290's with H55's hit 90C+ when I forgot to turn up the rad fans while gaming. 800rpm isn't enough apparently, lol. But it was no problem, they can take quite high temps without failing so don't worry.


This is why I bought a Gelid VGA fan adapter. Just left Afterburner control it with a temperature fan profile.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> If you're worried about liquid temps, why not max the fan out? Aren't 140mm fans more silent than 120mm ones? I know mine are in my case.
> This is why I bought a Gelid VGA fan adapter. Just left Afterburner control it with a temperature fan profile.


I have all my fan controlled via fan xpert through the motherboard. I can set custom fan curves for the rad fans, but the problem is fanXpert doesn't read the GPU temps. It only reads CPU or motherboard temps, which doesn't help.

So I set 3 stages of custom fixed rpm profiles in fan Xpert and just use the little desktop hidden widget to change between silent, standard or turbo mode, depending on how demanding the game I'm playing is. It's quick and easy to do, if I remember to do it.

Been thinking about getting the NZXT Grid + to run all my fans because then the CAM software will actually allow me to control the fans by GPU temp.









I don't know why motherboard manufacturers haven't implemented fan control based on GPU temps as GPUs produce the most heat in most PC setups.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I have all my fan controlled via fan xpert through the motherboard. I can set custom fan curves for the rad fans, but the problem is fanXpert doesn't read the GPU temps. It only reads CPU or motherboard temps, which doesn't help.
> 
> So I set 3 stages of custom fixed rpm profiles in fan Xpert and just use the little desktop hidden widget to change between silent, standard or turbo mode, depending on how demanding the game I'm playing is. It's quick and easy to do, if I remember to do it.
> 
> Been thinking about getting the NZXT Grid + to run all my fans because then the CAM software will actually allow me to control the fans by GPU temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why motherboard manufacturers haven't implemented fan control based on GPU temps as GPUs produce the most heat in most PC setups.


Im a little spoiled, but I have a 4th monitor over the center screen of my surround setup. All I use it for is monitoring software ............current draw, cpu and both gpu temps and several other pieces of random software that I like to use to monitor. But it is nice to see it all right there over me.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> It's a 3:1 ratio of water and ethylene glycol I think, you don't have to worry about it all since it won't start boiling till 140-150C, if not higher.


I was of the thinking that they were just using distilled and some basic anti-corrosion and anti-bacterial/organism additves. Of course the former may well be glycol but pretty sure 25% concentration of glycol is not going to do much for you. (Looked it up...) Looks like at atmospheric pressure, 25% glycol only raises the boiling point to just a little above 100C. The reason why ethylene glycol is more effective in cars is because typically the concentration is much higher (40-60%) and, more importantly, it's under pressure--usually about 15psi gauge. (Incidentally this is why when you remove the pressure cap from a car's rad or surge tank, when the vehicle is hot, the coolant can instantly boil as you just relieved the pressure in the system.)

Even 70% glycol only raises the boiling point to 116C, without pressurisation. And I seriously doubt you're getting any kind of pressure even near to 15psi with AIO/CLC coolers given the hoses, connectors, and rads show no evidence they'd ever withstand that pressure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I've had both my 290's with H55's hit 90C+ when I forgot to turn up the rad fans while gaming. 800rpm isn't enough apparently, lol. But it was no problem, they can take quite high temps without failing so don't worry.


Granted it's still probably above 100C but given the fact that localised boiling and vapourisation may occur before that, it's much safer to stay a good bit below 100C IMO. 90C is probably where you'd (or again at least I) would want to be peak, but not continuously. Also if your 290s hit 90C that doesn't mean the liquid did, necessarily. If it was for a short time, the liquid probably didn't get all the way up there.

You guys are free to run your AIOs at 100C if you wish but personally I'd not be comfortable getting anywhere near that and under regular use I haven't seen any dies they were cooling get nearly that high either.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im a little spoiled, but I have a 4th monitor over the center screen of my surround setup. All I use it for is monitoring software ............current draw, cpu and both gpu temps and several other pieces of random software that I like to use to monitor. But it is nice to see it all right there over me.


Yeah, I have a 2nd display I use for watching movies, youtube etc. while gaming and more importantly, for monitoring temps with MSI AB. I happened to glance over after gaming for a while and saw both cards approaching north of 90C. Alt-tabbed out of the game, switched to the turbo fan profile in fan Xpert and all was fine as the temps crept back down.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Granted it's still probably above 100C but given the fact that localised boiling and vapourisation may occur before that, it's much safer to stay a good bit below 100C IMO. 90C is probably where you'd (or again at least I) would want to be peak, but not continuously. Also if your 290s hit 90C that doesn't mean the liquid did, necessarily. If it was for a short time, the liquid probably didn't get all the way up there.
> 
> You guys are free to run your AIOs at 100C if you wish but personally I'd not be comfortable getting anywhere near that and under regular use I haven't seen any dies they were cooling get nearly that high either.


Nobody is saying it's OK to run that hot, nor are we OK with running our hardware at temps that high. We're just saying that they can handle much higher temps than what you're running at and thus; you have nothing to worry about. That's all.









I think maybe you misunderstood. I don't run my 290's at 90C all the time, nor do I want to. They generally run in the high 50's, low 60's under load. They only ran that hot once when I forgot to turn up the speed of the rad fans while playing a demanding game, that's all. And I only mentioned that to prove the point that these AIO's can handle higher temps without failure.


----------



## anti-duck

Hi again,

Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> Hi again,
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.


@4thKor should be up in a few hours. He likes to talk about backplates and shims and washers.


----------



## anti-duck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> @4thKor should be up in a few hours. He likes to talk about backplates and shims and washers.


Haha! Awesome


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> Hi again,
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.


You don't need anything special. Use the stock screws and Kraken backplate, but remove the rubber washers from the thumbscrews and take off the foam standoffs.


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> Hi again,
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.


You need M2.5X30mm screws to mount the NZXT backplate on the back of the EVGA backplate (or M2.5X25mm screws) if you do not use the NZXT backplate. The stock screws won't work since they are too small to accommodate the backplates and shim correctly. For using the NZXT backplate you will need to peel off the foam on the backplate which is very easy to do.

I didn't use any washers but any washers that are good for a M2.5 screw should work. For copper shim the PS3 YLOD kit for fix is better than a 1.6mm copper shim as the 25X25X1.6mm shim keeps on moving about whereas the PS3 42X42X1.2mm shim was a perfect fit for me and conducts heat properly even if it moves slightly (which it will trust me).

Screws: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00917LV9M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
Shim: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VCU2SK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> Hi again,
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.


If you already have a backplate you do not need the nzxt back plate. The existing backplate is already isolated from the PCB. If the screw heads are larger than the holes in the backplate you dont even need washers. But use them if you wish.


----------



## 4thKor

I use these with the stock bolts.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E3Q7H8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


----------



## KickAssCop

Are you guys running stock bolts on evga cards with backplate and a shim? Since on my classified the stock bolt was too small so not sure if you are giving the right recommendation here to a guy who is running an evga card and not an msi or other brand which does not require a change of screws.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> Are you guys running stock bolts on evga cards with backplate and a shim? Since on my classified the stock bolt was too small so not sure if you are giving the right recommendation here to a guy who is running an evga card and not an msi or other brand which does not require a change of screws.


I have put the G-10 on 2 of them. Without the nzxt back plate there was no issue.


----------



## 4thKor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I have put the G-10 on 2 of them. Without the nzxt back plate there was no issue.


Same here. A 770 Classy and a 770 SC. Also a MSI 980 Ti.


----------



## anti-duck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> You need M2.5X30mm screws to mount the NZXT backplate on the back of the EVGA backplate (or M2.5X25mm screws) if you do not use the NZXT backplate. The stock screws won't work since they are too small to accommodate the backplates and shim correctly. For using the NZXT backplate you will need to peel off the foam on the backplate which is very easy to do.
> 
> I didn't use any washers but any washers that are good for a M2.5 screw should work. For copper shim the PS3 YLOD kit for fix is better than a 1.6mm copper shim as the 25X25X1.6mm shim keeps on moving about whereas the PS3 42X42X1.2mm shim was a perfect fit for me and conducts heat properly even if it moves slightly (which it will trust me).
> 
> Screws: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00917LV9M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
> Shim: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VCU2SK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00


Awesome thanks, I'll order one of those shims right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4thKor*
> 
> I use these with the stock bolts.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E3Q7H8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


Just what I was looking for







I can't find them anywhere in the UK though so I'll have to see if someone can make them.


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4thKor*
> 
> Same here. A 770 Classy and a 770 SC. Also a MSI 980 Ti.


770 Classified, 770 SC and MSI 980 Ti do not require new screws. The Classified and newer ACX 2.0+ cards in the 980 Ti line up do require different screws. This is due to more spacing between backplate, mid plate and the use of a shim that pushes the screw length to longer than what is offered by the default screws in the NZXT package. The issue is only relevant to EVGA cards.

I know this since I have installed the G10 on 2 980 Ti Classifieds and it was a same issue with 780 Ti Classified as well. You can see the youtube videos.

Hope this is clear now.


----------



## hertz9753

I want to use a g10 on my EVGA GTX 980 Ti ACX 2.0+ with a 16mm copper shim and still keep the mid plate. I will also be using the NZXT back plate.

What lenth screws do I need?


----------



## KickAssCop

I am assuming you meant 1.6 mm copper shim. You will need 30 mm screws as posted in the previous page of this thread.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> I am assuming you meant 1.6 mm copper shim. You will need 30 mm screws as posted in the previous page of this thread.


Yes and thank you.


----------



## Unbreakablez

I want to be able to use the G10 on a Gigabyte G1 980Ti.

I've tried searching the the forums but can't seem to find any solid verification that it actually works.
After having looked at the compatibility list on NZXT website it states that my graphics card is not compatible. Is this true or has anyone actually managed to get it working and if so was there any modifications you had to do?

Help would be greatly appreciated - I just can't seem to find an answer!


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unbreakablez*
> 
> I want to be able to use the G10 on a Gigabyte G1 980Ti.
> 
> I've tried searching the the forums but can't seem to find any solid verification that it actually works.
> After having looked at the compatibility list on NZXT website it states that my graphics card is not compatible. Is this true or has anyone actually managed to get it working and if so was there any modifications you had to do?
> 
> Help would be greatly appreciated - I just can't seem to find an answer!


i put the g10 on my g1 980ti it works fine dont use the faceplate or if you want to use it the faceplate get longer screws


----------



## Unbreakablez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> i put the g10 on my g1 980ti it works fine dont use the faceplate or if you want to use it the faceplate get longer screws


When you mean faceplate do you mean the front facing faceplate or the backplate?
Do you recommend or know which type/length of screws are needed to keep the plate (backplate?)
Are you using any heatsinks for the vrms/ram etc?

Also what kind of performance / temp / noise difference did you see going from the Windforce cooler to the NZXT bracket. As the Windforce is known for its cooling capacity.

Apologies for the many questions - theres a first time for everything


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unbreakablez*
> 
> When you mean faceplate do you mean the front facing faceplate or the backplate?
> Do you recommend or know which type/length of screws are needed to keep the plate (backplate?)
> Are you using any heatsinks for the vrms/ram etc?
> 
> Also what kind of performance / temp / noise difference did you see going from the Windforce cooler to the NZXT bracket. As the Windforce is known for its cooling capacity.
> 
> Apologies for the many questions - theres a first time for everything


the nzxt plate is the faceplate dont use that if you intend on using the stock screws for mounting

As for noise there is 0 noise for me really and i have my case right next to me( my pump is set to 60% speed in bios) , I am using SP 120's in Push pull at min. rpm , the only time my card is audible is when i hear coil whine .

I get low 50's in temps with those settings ( my room ambient is usually low 20's), i have my card stable at 1480/2000 stable just max out the power slider and i am not using any particular cooling besides the 92mm fan for my VRM's


----------



## DR4G00N

Which AIO has the longest tubing? I need it to go from my second gpu to the front of my Arc XL. My H75 comes up an inch short.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Which AIO has the longest tubing? I need it to go from my second gpu to the front of my Arc XL. My H75 comes up an inch short.


Believe the NZXT models come a inch longer. Research it to be accurate.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> Believe the NZXT models come a inch longer. Research it to be accurate.


The NZXT ones are actually 4.25 inches longer (11.5" vs. 15.75") which is perfect since there is about 14" from the gpu core to the front of the case. The Kraken X31 it is then!


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> The NZXT ones are actually 4.25 inches longer (11.5" vs. 15.75") which is perfect since there is about 14" from the gpu core to the front of the case. The Kraken X31 it is then!


Update on how it goes! I have a G1 Gaming as well and I'm very interested in adding the G10. A question for those who use the G10 on the G1 Gaming, From what I've read on this thread, there's no VRM cooling on the G1 if the cooler is switched out. I currently have a custom bios on my card with 1.274v. How dangerous is it for my VRM with this much voltage? I'd like to know before I pull the trigger.


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Update on how it goes! I have a G1 Gaming as well and I'm very interested in adding the G10. A question for those who use the G10 on the G1 Gaming, From what I've read on this thread, there's no VRM cooling on the G1 if the cooler is switched out. I currently have a custom bios on my card with 1.274v. How dangerous is it for my VRM with this much voltage? I'd like to know before I pull the trigger.


Also on the max air, 1.274v (1.261v real limit on reference cards) bios.

I have 3$ heatsinks on them with thermal pads. I ran the cards without for a couple of weeks (ordered to tall heatsinks 1st time) and didn't notice anything. I stuck my finger in there and couldn't feel a thing but didn't really try to touch the vrm...

Also I haven't heard of anyone frying his vrm's on these cards with an AIO. Only some 290x if I recall corectly on the corsair forums, using their hg10 bracket.

You should be fine.

Doesn't the g1 gaming have a mid plate like the MSI / Asus have? That should be enough for the vrm's, curious that the g1 doesn't have one.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Also on the max air, 1.274v (1.261v real limit on reference cards) bios.
> 
> I have 3$ heatsinks on them with thermal pads. I ran the cards without for a couple of weeks (ordered to tall heatsinks 1st time) and didn't notice anything. I stuck my finger in there and couldn't feel a thing but didn't really try to touch the vrm...
> 
> Also I haven't heard of anyone frying his vrm's on these cards with an AIO. Only some 290x if I recall corectly on the corsair forums, using their hg10 bracket.
> 
> You should be fine.
> 
> Doesn't the g1 gaming have a mid plate like the MSI / Asus have? That should be enough for the vrm's, curious that the g1 doesn't have one.


Thanks for your reply. I'm assuming that you're also using a G1 Gaming based on your post. Did you have to modify any installation procedures and how easy was it? It will be my first time taking apart the card and I know that there aren't any visual instructions, let alone any instructions at all for the G1 Gaming 980 Ti bracket installation. A few posts back, someone mentioned that if we want to use the NZXT faceplate, then we have to use a different set of screws. I'm unaware of what kind of screws I'll need and I also remember seeing a copper thing needed for installation on a Classified 980 Ti model. Is anything like that going to be needed?

Apologies for barraging you with these questions but as this is exciting for me to try, it is equally just as intimidating.









EDIT: Just saw your sig, Didn't see that you're using reference models.


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Update on how it goes! I have a G1 Gaming as well and I'm very interested in adding the G10. A question for those who use the G10 on the G1 Gaming, From what I've read on this thread, there's no VRM cooling on the G1 if the cooler is switched out. I currently have a custom bios on my card with 1.274v. How dangerous is it for my VRM with this much voltage? I'd like to know before I pull the trigger.


I'm using ref's, it's why I asked if the G1 has a midplate by default like the asus / msi non-reference cards have. Sorry that I cannot be of more help. Only saw the g1 in pictures and don't have the dissasembled cooling it uses in mind right now.

LE. don't think that it has one. You should be able to use normal heatsinks on them and no shim but let's wait untill an actual g1 user with the g10 posts.



_"
G-10 should work fine. You will have to take the vrm heat sink off the fan half and attach it with screws in the existing holes. If their is no back plate make sure the screws you use to attach the vrm cooler to the card use a non conducting washer. But should be easy enough."_

Found this info couple of pages back regarding a 970 g1 gaming. Your cooler also should have that removable vrm heatsink, check it out.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I'm assuming that you're also using a G1 Gaming based on your post. Did you have to modify any installation procedures and how easy was it? It will be my first time taking apart the card and I know that there aren't any visual instructions, let alone any instructions at all for the G1 Gaming 980 Ti bracket installation. A few posts back, someone mentioned that if we want to use the NZXT faceplate, then we have to use a different set of screws. I'm unaware of what kind of screws I'll need and I also remember seeing a copper thing needed for installation on a Classified 980 Ti model. Is anything like that going to be needed?
> 
> Apologies for barraging you with these questions but as this is exciting for me to try, it is equally just as intimidating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just saw your sig, Didn't see that you're using reference models.


The G1 doesn't have a mid-plate so you don't need a shim and can just use the screws included with the G10. You will need some heatsinks on the mosfets though especially at 1.274V, I did this with my 780 Ti WF3 OC (it's layout is quite similar to the 980 Ti G1),


But you could just use some small cheap heatsinks and thermal tape to attach them.

Heatsinks on the VRAM aren't needed, but of course they don't hurt any.


----------



## DR4G00N

I can't seem to find the kraken x31 (or x41) in stock anywhere for a decent price (they're all over $100), so I'm just going with a H55 since it's only $65 @ NCIX and has free shipping. I'll just stack a couple 120mm fans to make up the space difference to the front of the case.


----------



## Rixx

I too have been thinking of doing this to my EVGA 970 GTX SSC with the ACX 2.0+, but have been putting it off. Well I'm tired of hearing these fans spinning at 2700 RPM to maintain 60 Celc while my CPU sits at 45 and is virtually quiet with my H100i. I've seen the video on how to do this to my particular card, only question I have is where are you guys getting the copper shims and what thickness, and do you paste 1 or both sides of the shim?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## hugoolly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rixx*
> 
> I too have been thinking of doing this to my EVGA 970 GTX SSC with the ACX 2.0+, but have been putting it off. Well I'm tired of hearing these fans spinning at 2700 RPM to maintain 60 Celc while my CPU sits at 45 and is virtually quiet with my H100i. I've seen the video on how to do this to my particular card, only question I have is where are you guys getting the copper shims and what thickness, and do you paste 1 or both sides of the shim?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> I feel you man, and I'm not ready to splash out £400-500 on a custom loop...
> These heat sinks sound do the job
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00GTH9ZK4/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_3?colid=US355HYM4RAB&coliid=I2QATO9XZHY4XS
> 
> They also come with thermal tape already applied, but you can buy your own thermal tape if you want.
> 
> You may also want to work out what type of fan header you have on your gpu, for example, my Asus r9 390 has a 5 pin header, so I'm going to be getting a 5 pin Pmw adapter so I can plug the fan into the gpu for temp control


----------



## Rixx

Thanks for the advise. Now it's just a matter of picking a 120mm aio cooler that will compliment the case. Using a NZXT s340 and currently have a H100i taking up both front intake ports, so it would have to go on the 120mm exhaust. So many to choose from...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rixx*
> 
> Thanks for the advise. Now it's just a matter of picking a 120mm aio cooler that will compliment the case. Using a NZXT s340 and currently have a H100i taking up both front intake ports, so it would have to go on the 120mm exhaust. So many to choose from...


If you like Corsair, Alot of people use the H55 or H75. I use the 75 quite a bit on machines I build for people. It comes with a pair of fans for push/pull.


----------



## Rixx

Ill look into the 75, I don't have a preference at the moment, corsair is all best buy had when I went to get one, so I ended up with the H100i.

Going to look up sizes and see if a H80 would fit...


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rixx*
> 
> Ill look into the 75, I don't have a preference at the moment, corsair is all best buy had when I went to get one, so I ended up with the H100i.
> 
> Going to look up sizes and see if a H80 would fit...


if you can find look for the Intel liquid cooler in aus its priced the same as a H55 but its a thick 120mm rad and the temp difference between the H55 and the intel cooler is quite a difference


----------



## hertz9753

The Corsair H50 Silent is the same as the H55 but it does not come with the AMD CPU mounting hardware.


----------



## Rixx

Been doing a lot of reading tonight while sitting on my button at work. Seriously considering getting a NH-D15 for the cpu and using my H100i for the Gpu.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rixx*
> 
> Been doing a lot of reading tonight while sitting on my button at work. Seriously considering getting a NH-D15 for the cpu and using my H100i for the Gpu.


H100i isn't able to use the G10 mounting.


----------



## Rixx

Well that throws a wrench in the works.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rixx*
> 
> Been doing a lot of reading tonight while sitting on my button at work. Seriously considering getting a NH-D15 for the cpu and using my H100i for the Gpu.
> 
> 
> 
> H100i isn't able to use the G10 mounting.
Click to expand...

You can't put a square into a round hole. The older Corsair H50 also will not work.


----------



## Rixx

Yea I should have researched that more, the d15 won't even fit in my case.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> H100i isn't able to use the G10 mounting.


Correct. it has to have the asetek mounting system.

asetek.jpg 7k .jpg file


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

I wasn't asking. I was informing him. ?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> I wasn't asking. I was informing him. ?


I know, I was concurring.


----------



## Rixx

Maybe someone could point me in the right direction for doing a stress test to ensure I even need additional cooling. I installed another AF fan on the H100I and it seems to be doing the trick to help keep the GPU cooler. Ran Furmark for about 5 minutes earlier and the highest temp I saw was 72.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rixx*
> 
> Maybe someone could point me in the right direction for doing a stress test to ensure I even need additional cooling. I installed another AF fan on the H100I and it seems to be doing the trick to help keep the GPU cooler. Ran Furmark for about 5 minutes earlier and the highest temp I saw was 72.


72C is a good number. I would not use Furmark however. That software can damage your GPU if not used properly. I would place the GPU under the load of whatever game or task for which you are using the machine over several hours and see what your temp is looking like after everything is heat saturated and go from there. If you are not overclocking the GPU then you do not need it as cool as possible. 72C~ is a perfectly safe temp.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rixx*
> 
> Maybe someone could point me in the right direction for doing a stress test to ensure I even need additional cooling. I installed another AF fan on the H100I and it seems to be doing the trick to help keep the GPU cooler. Ran Furmark for about 5 minutes earlier and the highest temp I saw was 72.


Two things:

1. May I ask why you're running an AF (air flow optimized) fan(s) on a rad? You'd get better performance if you used the SP (static pressure optimized ) fan(s). Just curious.

2. I would strongly advise against running furmark. It's been known to kill graphics cards. It puts an unrealistic load on your GPU that is far heavier than any game ever would. There's no need to put unnecessary stress on your card. I would suggest just simply running what ever game you own that is the most demanding for at least an hour or so.

Question: what GPU are you using and what fan speed are you running? My two 290's don't get much warmer than the low to mid 60's under full gaming load and that's with the rad fans (H55's with 1 SP120 on each) running at about 50-60% max. Also, make sure your pump is running at 100% (12v) constant.

Wait... how are you running an H100i with a kraken bracket?


----------



## Rixx

My GPU is currently unmodified. It's an EVGA 970 GTX SSC. The H100i is cooling the processor but sits in front of both intake ports in my S340, it also is running the fans that came with it. I had an extra fan from the Rosewill Galaxy case that I upgraded from so I put it on the radiator as well as a pull fan in hopes of directing more air towards the GPU.

The most demanding game I play at the moment is GTA V, which my temp stabilize at around 70. I came here because my GPU cooler was spinning at 2600 RPM to maintain those temps, now it sits around 1800-2100 to maintain them, which isn't too noisy.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rixx*
> 
> My GPU is currently unmodified. It's an EVGA 970 GTX SSC. The H100i is cooling the processor but sits in front of both intake ports in my S340, it also is running the fans that came with it. I had an extra fan from the Rosewill Galaxy case that I upgraded from so I put it on the radiator as well as a pull fan in hopes of directing more air towards the GPU.
> 
> The most demanding game I play at the moment is GTA V, which my temp stabilize at around 70. I came here because my GPU cooler was spinning at 2600 RPM to maintain those temps, now it sits around 1800-2100 to maintain them, which isn't too noisy.


Oh, ok. Sorry, my bad. I misunderstood your first post. I thought you already had a G10 installed but I somehow missed the part where you said "to see if I even need additional cooling".









The answer to that I would say is no, you're temps are just fine.


----------



## 4thKor

The best way to check your temps AND your overclock is to run [email protected]


----------



## xanax40

Anyone has tried mounting the G10 on a Gigabyte r390 G1 gaming 8GB ? And if so any problems with an Corsair Hydro H90 ?


----------



## CC268

Anyone have any information on how well the Kraken G10 and Kraken x41 work on the MSI 980TI? Are there any instructions on how to do this?


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Anyone have any information on how well the Kraken G10 and Kraken x41 work on the MSI 980TI? Are there any instructions on how to do this?


What version from MSI? If it's the reference design then yes. If it's the 6g then you will need a shim.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> What version from MSI? If it's the reference design then yes. If it's the 6g then you will need a shim.


It is the 6G: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127889

What shim would I need?


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> It is the 6G: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127889
> 
> What shim would I need?


You dont need a shim. Thats only the EVGA that requires a shim. The MSI midplate isn't setup lile EVGA. I've done both H55 G10 and H90 G10 on MSI6G with no issues with midplate or backplate.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> What version from MSI? If it's the reference design then yes. If it's the 6g then you will need a shim.


That is not true, I have the 6G gaming version and it doesn't require any shim. If he wants to retain the backplate then he will need to remove or trim down the foam padding on the G10's backplate and not use the washers on the long retaining screws.


----------



## CC268

Can I keep the stock MSI backplate on?

Is the 92mm fan good or should I replace it with something else?


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Can I keep the stock MSI backplate on?
> 
> Is the 92mm fan good or should I replace it with something else?


Stock backplate can stay with removable/trimming of foam on the G10's retention plate. 92Mm fan is fine. The vrms stay in the 50s with it.


----------



## CC268

Awesome...I am excited...G10 + x41 should look sweet...match my x61 ;p

Do I need any special adapters to hook up the fans or is it just standard 4 pin PWM?


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Awesome...I am excited...G10 + x41 should look sweet...match my x61 ;p
> 
> Do I need any special adapters to hook up the fans or is it just standard 4 pin PWM?


The 92mm is standard. Good choice the 140mm version will be 10c cooler then the 120s. Atleast my H90 vs my H55 was.


----------



## CC268

Yea this is gonna look awesome...Red G10 with X41 and then my x61 for my CPU...gonna be SWEET


----------



## Freiya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> i put the g10 on my g1 980ti it works fine dont use the faceplate or if you want to use it the faceplate get longer screws


What do you mean by face plate? I also have the same question as the guy you quoted. It's definitely possible to put the g10 kraken on a G! gigabyte 980 ti without doing any mods or anything? thank you btw.


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freiya*
> 
> What do you mean by face plate? I also have the same question as the guy you quoted. It's definitely possible to put the g10 kraken on a G! gigabyte 980 ti without doing any mods or anything? thank you btw.


the nzxt plate thingy

and yes the g10 works on the g1 980ti


----------



## Freiya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> the nzxt plate thingy
> 
> and yes the g10 works on the g1 980ti


Thanks for taking the time to reply! it's really hard to find info on this lol. Do you by chance know what size the screws are? Also did you add any heat sinks to the mosfets like the guy earlier in the thread mentioned? or is it really not a problem?


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freiya*
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to reply! it's really hard to find info on this lol. Do you by chance know what size the screws are? Also did you add any heat sinks to the mosfets like the guy earlier in the thread mentioned? or is it really not a problem?


i just used the standard screws w.e comes with the kit and no i didnt put any heatsinks on the mosfets .. it would be better if you do though


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freiya*
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to reply! it's really hard to find info on this lol. Do you by chance know what size the screws are? Also did you add any heat sinks to the mosfets like the guy earlier in the thread mentioned? or is it really not a problem?


You certainly want to make sure there is a heatsink of some type on the VRMs.. It will increase stability and help with overclocking. Its no big deal to add some to your gpu if yours does not have any and. Its well worth taking the time to add them. They are pretty cheap too.Got some pics of your PCB with the cooler off?


----------



## huckincharlie

Hi all, stock 390x XFX heatsinks will be enough for nzxt g10?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> Hi all, stock 390x XFX heatsinks will be enough for nzxt g10?


You will probably need a shim for on top of the gpu chip because of the midplate on the PCB, but otherwise looks set.


----------



## kukkaroinen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You will probably need a shim for on top of the gpu chip because of the midplate on the PCB, but otherwise looks set.


No way a shim is needed. The midplate doesn't interfere with the cooler in any way. Only EVGA midplates come into the way because they have some strange crap coming out of the midplate on the way of the chip.


----------



## mgmonkey

Hey guys,

I have had the Kraken G10 in a box for a few weeks and my Corsair H50 (the correct model) will be here at the end of the week, pairing it with my GTX 780.

Installing it all together seems straight forward, but my question is *where do you plug the water-cooling system into*? Do I get fan adapters that go straight into my PSU's power supply and run it at max power or do I attempt to run the cooling system off of the mobo? I do have the molex fan cable adapters that I am assuming I use.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kukkaroinen*
> 
> No way a shim is needed. The midplate doesn't interfere with the cooler in any way. Only EVGA midplates come into the way because they have some strange crap coming out of the midplate on the way of the chip.


Good to know


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mgmonkey*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have had the Kraken G10 in a box for a few weeks and my Corsair H50 (the correct model) will be here at the end of the week, pairing it with my GTX 780.
> 
> Installing it all together seems straight forward, but my question is *where do you plug the water-cooling system into*? Do I get fan adapters that go straight into my PSU's power supply and run it at max power or do I attempt to run the cooling system off of the mobo? I do have the molex fan cable adapters that I am assuming I use.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


You need to make sure the pump is getting full power the molex fan adapter will work nicely. You can plug it into the mainboard as well, just go into the bios and make sure the fan headers getting 100% power..


----------



## Freiya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You certainly want to make sure there is a heatsink of some type on the VRMs.. It will increase stability and help with overclocking. Its no big deal to add some to your gpu if yours does not have any and. Its well worth taking the time to add them. They are pretty cheap too.Got some pics of your PCB with the cooler off?


Nah don't have any pics. Thing is I'm coming from a 290x crossfire setup. I had the kraken +h75+gelid vrm kit installed on one of them. I wanted 980ti's for 4k hdmi and performance so I sold one of the 290x's and now I'm trying to sell the other one but I kind of wanted to keep the kraken-h75 with the 290x but of course it's harder to sell that way. With that in mind I've been considering adding the kraken+h75 to my 2nd 980ti which will be here Thursday. I'm just super uncomfortable messing around with such expensive stuff and even though I did it once with the 290x I rather not do it again. Probably going to have to bite the bullet though If I want to dump my old card.

If I do decide to do this do you guys think http://www.amazon.com/dp/B011E0OK3W?psc=1 would be good enough? and if so would just 1 pack cover it?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freiya*
> 
> .
> 
> If I do decide to do this do you guys think http://www.amazon.com/dp/B011E0OK3W?psc=1 would be good enough? and if so would just 1 pack cover it?


Those are for VRAM typically. They could be made to work in a pinch but your looking for something like this  Although that one in the pic is not for a 980ti.

http://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-Vision-Enhancement-R290/dp/B00K73F60E/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1447191479&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=VRM+heatsink+gtx+980

Well..........says it works for a lot of different gpus but YMMV. Perhaps someone with a 980 whos done this will sign on this evening.


----------



## CC268

Hoping one of you guys can help me. So I have my G10 and Kraken x41 all setup..still waiting for the Gelid adapter. I noticed in CAM that it won't read the GPU temperature and my guess is that is because I need to have the adapter so that it reads the temp off the card?


----------



## skkane

It should read the gpu temp. The gelid adapter will only allow you to control the fan from nvidia soft / afterburner.

Something is wrong there if you can't see gpu temp. Reinstall cam, see if other monitoring soft can read the gputemp fine.


----------



## CC268

So everything actually works...I was not paying attention last night and didn't do any actual tests...but I checked everything this morning an the temps, etc are all working as expected.

How tight do you guys tighten the screws down for the cooler? It is a bit difficult to "feel" how tight they should be.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> So everything actually works...I was not paying attention last night and didn't do any actual tests...but I checked everything this morning an the temps, etc are all working as expected.
> 
> How tight do you guys tighten the screws down for the cooler? It is a bit difficult to "feel" how tight they should be.


Hand tight. But the screws really don't preset thread so it will bend the bracket if threaded too far.


----------



## CC268

Hmm alright...guess I will re evaluate it...it can be tough to fit my fingers in there with all the tubes, etc...


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Just light handed screwdriver it then. You just dont overthread it. Youll notice when it you are as the bracket will tend to bend on the edges by the screw.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> Just light handed screwdriver it then. You just dont overthread it. Youll notice when it you are as the bracket will tend to bend on the edges by the screw.


Wow..I can't imagine bending the bracket haha...I guess I "erred" on the side of caution with tightening. Wouldn't want to damage the GPU or something...I will re-evaluate it when I get home.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Wow..I can't imagine bending the bracket haha...I guess I "erred" on the side of caution with tightening. Wouldn't want to damage the GPU or something...I will re-evaluate it when I get home.


From my own experience, the PCB will tend to bow a tiny bit, but I haven't seen the bracket bend. It's definitely a delicate balance/fine line getting those screws tightened just right.


----------



## Ultisym

I really doesnt have to be that tight. If you have an old GPU you can play with it and see what it takes to get a good TIM pattern. Thats what I did. Then I just go back in after a week or too and give it another half turn on each screw, in a cross pattern of course. Ive never had issue doing it this way, but again I had some other stuff to practice on.


----------



## Kold

Sorry to be a pain in the ass here, but can we compile a list of confirmed aftermarket cards this works on?

I am interested in getting a Gigiabyte 980 Ti G1 Gaming, Asus 980 Ti Strix OC or MSI 980 Ti Gaming 6G Golden Edition.

Will the G10 work on those cards? Thanks


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Sorry to be a pain in the ass here, but can we compile a list of confirmed aftermarket cards this works on?
> 
> I am interested in getting a Gigiabyte 980 Ti G1 Gaming, Asus 980 Ti Strix OC or MSI 980 Ti Gaming 6G Golden Edition.
> 
> Will the G10 work on those cards? Thanks


The G10 will work ona anyone of them. Golden edition is only a change in heatsink material which would negate the reason for getting it if your swapping it out for a G10.


----------



## Kold

The reason I was thinking the Golden Editon MSI is because I figured it may be binned as opposed to the regular edition.

Also, I coulda swore it has higher factory clocks than the regular. I'll go double check.

Lol, so it's 1291MHz vs 1279MHz.. Could be binned higher....


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> The reason I was thinking the Golden Editon MSI is because I figured it may be binned as opposed to the regular edition.
> 
> Also, I coulda swore it has higher factory clocks than the regular. I'll go double check.
> 
> Lol, so it's 1291MHz vs 1279MHz.. Could be binned higher....


Someone here got one and he got 63% ASIC so i don't believe they are binned any better then the regular Gaming 6G


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> Someone here got one and he got 63% ASIC so i don't believe they are binned any better then the regular Gaming 6G


I dont really put much stock in ASIC scores but I do typically test the gpus i Install "just because". Probably more out of curiosity than anything. One thng I have noticed with Maxwell is that they are all over the place, regardless of which version you get. Just a personal revelation but I agree on your binning statement.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Right. Ive seen 60% range hit over 1500 and 70% not even make it past 1450. I believe the ASIC is given to the chip itself as nobody ever takes the pcb quality into the equation also which could be a factor. Maybe im wrong but its true results are all over the place no matter the ASIC quality.


----------



## Kold

Does anyone think some of the people on here claiming to hit 1550-1620MHz on air are exaggerating?

edited for grammar


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Does anyone think some of the people on here claiming to hit 1550-1620MHz on air is exaggerated?


Highly.


----------



## anti-duck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Does anyone think some of the people on here claiming to hit 1550-1620MHz on air is exaggerated?


It's not impossible for a lucky few, but yes, mostly exaggerated.


----------



## hertz9753

I fold 24/7 with an EVGA GTX 980 Ti 4991-KR @ 1491 on the core with the stock bios and ACX cooler right now.

I have the shim and the the G10 but heat is is not an issue right now in North Dakota.


----------



## 4thKor

I have a MSI 960 OC folding 24/7 @ 1540mhz. Temps never get above 52C. Of course the solid copper cooler from my 980 Ti Golden Edition is a major factor in that.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Did it drop 10c from stock for the 980ti too?


----------



## 4thKor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> Did it drop 10c from stock for the 980ti too?


Actually the Ti has a Kraken with a H90 folding 24/7 with temps never getting above 50.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Ah, only 2 people i know got the golden edition. Neither really informed how well the copper heatsink performed for the 980ti. I also had the G10+H90 for my Gaming 6G before i went full loop. Max i could hit was 47-48 in Heaven with the H90.


----------



## 4thKor

The coolers are actually pretty good, but the Ti produces so much heat the only way to control it is with water cooling. Temps with the stock cooler quickly went over the 65C "threshold" at around 1450mhz, so thus the Kraken and H90. And since I had the Ti cooler anyway, I quickly realized it could be a great addition to the 960. Temps on it were at the threshold at around the same 1450. I had to trim the rear trim plate to make it fit, but it was well worth it. I might also add this card is in a nMedia PC wooden case. I installed 1/4' spacers under the lid for air flow and added blue LED intake fans to the front. Works very well and looks pretty awesome too.


----------



## F4lkon

Hi, need help, namely can I put G10 on Evga GTX 780 SuperClocked ACX ?


----------



## Ultisym

Yeah it'll work.


----------



## F4lkon

THX







but should I put 0.8mm shim on G110 ?


----------



## CC268

What are you guys settings your pump speed to for your coolers? Or do you just let the software adjust it based on the GPU temps?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> What are you guys settings your pump speed to for your coolers? Or do you just let the software adjust it based on the GPU temps?


Some buy the fan header adapter and let the GPU control it dynamically based on the software onboard. I think thats ok for the fan mounted directly on to the G-10 but I like more control over the fan on the radiator. You can use a fan header on your mainboard and with some trial and error, figure out the power percentage it needs set in the bios to give you the temps you desire, or you can buy a fan controller and use that to adjust it on the fly based on what you want and when you want it. Fan controllers can cost as much or as little as you want really. There are some single fan controllers out there for under 5 bucks. Then of course you can just hook it up to a molex to fan adapter and let it run wide open. It usually isnt that loud but a more expensive (really should say a better engineered fan here) fan can take a lot of that noise out of it. So its really up to you how you want to approach it. You also need to decide what temp you are aiming to achieve and maintain.


----------



## CC268

Thanks for the help - although I wasn't talking about the radiator fan...I have the adapter for the GPU so that my radiator fan is hooked up directly to the GPU...so my fan curve is set in MSI Afterburner - works awesome.

I was referring to the actual PUMP for the cooler...the pump RPM specifically. My pump is just hooked up to my CPUFAN2 header on my motherboard. The CAM software will adjust the pump speed based on the GPU temps. My question was, do you guys set the pump speed to a manual setting (run it at 100% all the time, etc) or do you just leave it to the software to adjust the pump RPM?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Thanks for the help - although I wasn't talking about the radiator fan...I have the adapter for the GPU so that my radiator fan is hooked up directly to the GPU...so my fan curve is set in MSI Afterburner - works awesome.
> 
> I was referring to the actual PUMP for the cooler...the pump RPM specifically. My pump is just hooked up to my CPUFAN2 header on my motherboard. The CAM software will adjust the pump speed based on the GPU temps. My question was, do you guys set the pump speed to a manual setting (run it at 100% all the time, etc) or do you just leave it to the software to adjust the pump RPM?


Sorry i misunderstood your question. The pump should run at full speed. 100% of the time. The header you have it on should be fine, just go into the bios and set it to run full speed. Some dont have a percentage but use terms like normal or turbo, choose turbo in that case.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Sorry i misunderstood your question. The pump should run at full speed. 100% of the time. The header you have it on should be fine, just go into the bios and set it to run full speed. Some dont have a percentage but use terms like normal or turbo, choose turbo in that case.


Really? Won't running at 100% time cause more wear and tear than is needed? Not discounting what you said, I am just curious as to why you would do that?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Really? Won't running at 100% time cause more wear and tear than is needed? Not discounting what you said, I am just curious as to why you would do that?


IMO you always want max flow for performance and consistency. Additionally, with electric motors, Ramping the pump motor up and down puts more wear and tear on it than just letting it go IMO. While the pumps used in AIO/CLCs are usually decent, the AIO/CLCs life span is finite. I wouldnt worry to much about full speed wearing out your pump. This is just my opinion, im sure others will chime in with theirs.


----------



## CC268

Alright...makes sense I suppose.. although I couldn't do that for my x61 AIO for my CPU as setting the pump speed to 100% would make the fans go to 100%...I can get away with setting the pump speed to 100% on my x41 since the fan is hooked up directly to the GPU.


----------



## RaduZ

Hey guys I'm planing to buy a kraken g10+h55 to pair it up with my Saphire dual x 285. Are they compatible? Will the h55 be enough for a higher end card? Thx for the info.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

It'll be fine. My h55 ran 56-57c full load on my 980ti which i would presume outheats the 285 so you could see low 50s maybe higher 40s. Your vrms have a dedicated heatsink so no worries about that. Your good to go.


----------



## CC268

Anyone else have an opinion on pump rpm?


----------



## RaduZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> It'll be fine. My h55 ran 56-57c full load on my 980ti which i would presume outheats the 285 so you could see low 50s maybe higher 40s. Your vrms have a dedicated heatsink so no worries about that. Your good to go.


Thx, can't wait to try it and see what OC I can get out of it.


----------



## Kold

Can I just use an adapter to plug my H75 into a Molex?

Also, my case wont have enough room for both H75 fans to be mounted. How should I mount it then? I was thinking {*Case*}{*Rad*}{*<-- Fan*}? I could even do *{<-- Fan}{Case}{Rad}{<--Fan}* though it might look weird with one fan on the outside of my case, lol.

Here's a few pictures of what I mean.. It's a CaseLabs Mercury S3. I am OPEN to getting a new case, as it's been a loooong time since I updated. It's just hard to upgrade from a CaseLabs lol.


----------



## 4thKor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Anyone else have an opinion on pump rpm?


Full speed ahead. Hook it directly to the PSU.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4thKor*
> 
> Full speed ahead. Hook it directly to the PSU.


How do you hook a 3 pin directly to the PSU? I just don't know how you can manually set the pump rpm to 100% without changing the fan speed...I use CAM to keep track of all my fans and I won't change that. Not gonna deal with rewiring my entire rig again.

When I get home I'm gonna try something...think I can set the pump speed to 100 in bios and still control the fans!


----------



## 4thKor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> How do you hook a 3 pin directly to the PSU? I just don't know how you can manually set the pump rpm to 100% without changing the fan speed...I use CAM to keep track of all my fans and I won't change that. Not gonna deal with rewiring my entire rig again.
> 
> When I get home I'm gonna try something...think I can set the pump speed to 100 in bios and still control the fans!


I use a 3-pin to molex or 3-pin to sata converter. I also found powered fan adapters to hook the rad fans and Kraken fan up with so that with the card adapter I can control fan speed in Afterburner.


----------



## CC268

My x41 for my GPU I have the fan adapter...my x61 though is for my CPU. Anyways if I can't figure it out I'm just gonna leave the pumps as is...beyond sick of constantly working on this thing lol.


----------



## Eiennohi

Antec Kuhler H2O 950 does not fit???

Also should I get the x31 or x41 with the G10?


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Depends how much cooling you want. The 140mm will run about 10c cooler from what I've seen on a 980ti.


----------



## Eiennohi

lol thanks. I am planning on putting it on R9 290.
Now I am really deciding between Zalman LQ-320 (120mm/$95), TT Water 3.0 Extreme (240mm/$95) or the X41 (140mm/$100)

Which one is undoubtedly the best?


----------



## CC268

Get the x41! Love mine man...


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eiennohi*
> 
> lol thanks. I am planning on putting it on R9 290.
> Now I am really deciding between Zalman LQ-320 (120mm/$95), TT Water 3.0 Extreme (240mm/$95) or the X41 (140mm/$100)
> 
> Which one is undoubtedly the best?


Adding to the list ?
Corsair H90 (140mm/$88.99)

The 240mm would obviously outdo all of them. I just have no experience with any thermaltake aio.


----------



## 4thKor

The H90 is more than enough. I have a Water 3.0 120mm on a 980and it's way overkill. I'm actually running with a dead fan on the push side and there's been no change in temps. Of course that's why I prefer push/pull. Especially with a single fan rad.


----------



## hertz9753

Has anybody tried the G10 on an EVGA GTX 960 FTW 2GB? I'm asking because I don't any 960's on the list.


----------



## Unbreakablez

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the help earlier on regarding the Gigabyte g1 980ti compatibility problems.

I've since then ordered:

2 x kraken g10
2 x kraken x41

But I am having some problems getting 2 kraken x41s working and would like some help

I've got the Gigabyte z170 gaming 7 motherboard which has 2 internal 5 pin USB headers located at the bottom,
1 of which is being used by my Kraken x61 cooling the CPU.
This leaves me with only 1 internal 5 pin USB header.

The documentation for the kraken x41 states I need to put the usb cable coming from the pump into an internal 5 pin usb header.
Do I need to do this to get CAM working?
If so I suppose I need to buy something like the NZXT Internal USB expansion card ?

Another question regarding the Gigabyte G1 980TI, after taking apart the cooler there seems to be two 4 pin fan headers coming out of the pcb.
Can I connect the GELID Silent PWM Fan Adaptor to any of the fan headers to be able to control the fan from MSI Afterburner? ( Ive got a 92mm pwm fan replacing the stock NZXT one)

Thanks in advance for any help


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unbreakablez*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Thanks for all the help earlier on regarding the Gigabyte g1 980ti compatibility problems.
> 
> I've since then ordered:
> 
> 2 x kraken g10
> 2 x kraken x41
> 
> But I am having some problems getting 2 kraken x41s working and would like some help
> 
> I've got the Gigabyte z170 gaming 7 motherboard which has 2 internal 5 pin USB headers located at the bottom,
> 1 of which is being used by my Kraken x61 cooling the CPU.
> This leaves me with only 1 internal 5 pin USB header.
> 
> The documentation for the kraken x41 states I need to put the usb cable coming from the pump into an internal 5 pin usb header.
> Do I need to do this to get CAM working?
> If so I suppose I need to buy something like the NZXT Internal USB expansion card ?
> 
> Another question regarding the Gigabyte G1 980TI, after taking apart the cooler there seems to be two 4 pin fan headers coming out of the pcb.
> Can I connect the GELID Silent PWM Fan Adaptor to any of the fan headers to be able to control the fan from MSI Afterburner? ( Ive got a 92mm pwm fan replacing the stock NZXT one)
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help


I have the nzxt usb expansion thing also and it helped. Was having the same problem as you. I think software control will not work for the kraken that is not connected via usb, but not sure since haven't tried to run without it plugged. Get the extension thing and be done, it's worth it









My reference has a 3pin on the top of the pcb (powering the led light) and a 4pin powering the fan. I don't know how the gigabyte is but the bottom connector shoulb be powering the fan thru that gelid adapter. I'm running mine from the top, led, header and it's not spinning very fast visually (Can't check rpm in software). Purchased the wrong adapter cable (3pin instead of 4) and now i'm too lazy to get everything out and hook the proper gelid 4pin cable to the boards.


----------



## noext

Hello

Is the Krakan G10 can be mounted on a amd card with custom pcb ? ( sapphire r9 290 dual x 11227-12-20G )

Thx


----------



## Sorphius

It can be mounted, but depending on the VRM location you may have to do some ghetto rigging with the fan.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noext*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Is the Krakan G10 can be mounted on a amd card with custom pcb ? ( sapphire r9 290 dual x 11227-12-20G )
> 
> Thx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> It can be mounted, but depending on the VRM location you may have to do some ghetto rigging with the fan.


What he said. It will fit the gpu die without issue, just make sure that the gpu you have or intend to get already has a Heatsink on the vrms attached to the PCB or you have to get a more generic vrm heat sink and use thermal tape. Either will work, ones obviously easier than the other. What hes referring to on the location I do not think will be an issue for you on the R9 290. On the GTX 970 (Not all), some wise guy decided putting the vrms on the opposite side of the PCB as the norm would be funny. It wasnt. In cases like this you do need to rig up a fan to blow over the vrm heatsink as the G-10 doesnt provide for this/ But i do not believe that to be an issue with the gpu your talking about.


----------



## RaduZ

So I mounted my G10 on my R9 285 and I am not sure why my temps are so high. I'm sure I've screwed it tight enough and my H55 should be enough to cool it. I was thinking of taking it off and useing some mx-4 instead of the standard thermalpaste but don't think that is at fault for the temps. (70C in Furmark with the fan set at 100% *OC with +45mV*) (Valley temps go up to 58C after 15-18 min). Any advice?


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4thKor*
> 
> The H90 is more than enough. I have a Water 3.0 120mm on a 980and it's way overkill. I'm actually running with a dead fan on the push side and there's been no change in temps. Of course that's why I prefer push/pull. Especially with a single fan rad.


What temps are you getting?

I'm using an Antec H20 620 with a push-pull, though I think one fan would've done it, but I don't want to demount now. I'm running 65 with [email protected], room temp is around 20-22 ambient.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaduZ*
> 
> So I mounted my G10 on my R9 285 and I am not sure why my temps are so high. I'm sure I've screwed it tight enough and my H55 should be enough to cool it. I was thinking of taking it off and useing some mx-4 instead of the standard thermalpaste but don't think that is at fault for the temps. (70C in Furmark with the fan set at 100% *OC with +45mV*) (Valley temps go up to 58C after 15-18 min). Any advice?


With a 285, you shouldn't be anywhere near 70. FYI, don't run furmark. It puts unrealistic loads on your GPU and can damage/kill it. It has been known to kill cards, so beware. Better benchmarks to run would be Unigine Valley or just simply run the most demanding game you own.









But yeah, back to the temps. What 285 do you have, specifically?

Check to make sure the pump is running at 100% 12v constant.


----------



## mgmonkey

My GTX 780 and I would like to join the party! (we did sign up)



Running a Corsair H50.

Battlefield 4 used to make my temps on the stock fan shoot up to 80*C unless I set the fan speed at 70%. Using this, my max temp was 37*C.


----------



## Eiennohi

is a g10 and x61(280mm rad) overkill?


----------



## RaduZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> With a 285, you shouldn't be anywhere near 70. FYI, don't run furmark. It puts unrealistic loads on your GPU and can damage/kill it. It has been known to kill cards, so beware. Better benchmarks to run would be Unigine Valley or just simply run the most demanding game you own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, back to the temps. What 285 do you have, specifically?
> 
> Check to make sure the pump is running at 100% 12v constant.


R9 285 Dual-X from saphire. My temps in valley aren't that good either (58C after 15 min) and with the stock cooler I was getting 72C. I'm going to try to add another fan and change the thermal paste if that does not work i'm out of ideas.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eiennohi*
> 
> is a g10 and x61(280mm rad) overkill?


You ask this on OCN?







Overkill is the norm here. In all seriousness though, it is more than you need, but you will run at least a few degrees C cooler than say a 140mm setup. People are reaching high 40C to 55C temps max with 120mm setups. So its overkill but if you have room for it and want to run it, go for it.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaduZ*
> 
> R9 285 Dual-X from saphire. My temps in valley aren't that good either (58C after 15 min) and with the stock cooler I was getting 72C. I'm going to try to add another fan and change the thermal paste if that does not work i'm out of ideas.


How is the fan setup on the radiator? Intake or exhaust. Exhaust is preferred on this type of gpu cooling. The manual for the cooler itself may recommend setting up as intake but thats thinking of CPU cooling. Very few G-10 CLC setups use intake on the radiator and get good temps. As others mentioned, make sure the pump is running full speed, if its a fan header on the board, go into the bios and manually set it to max to be sure. Failing that you can re seat it. "tight" isnt as important as having the pressure even across the cold plate to gpu chip. If its not sitting flat, you will not get the max benefit. It has to be tightened slowly in an X pattern to make sure it seats evenly. You would not be the first to not get it seated evenly, happens even to seasoned veterans. The only way to verify if thats the issue is to pull it off and look at the TIM pattern on the die and cold plate. That will tell you if that was your issue since your talking about putting MX-4 on it. MX-4 is fine for it, its what i use on hundreds of projects. Good stuff for the price.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eiennohi*
> 
> is a g10 and x61(280mm rad) overkill?


Yes, most definitely. Most of us are running single 120mm H55's or similar and they have proven to be enough even for overclocked Hawaii's and the likes.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaduZ*
> 
> R9 285 Dual-X from saphire. My temps in valley aren't that good either (58C after 15 min) and with the stock cooler I was getting 72C. I'm going to try to add another fan and change the thermal paste if that does not work i'm out of ideas.


Ok, I don't see any mid-plate on those cards, so it's not like you need a shim and the waterblock can't make proper contact. That should be fine. I know for a fact the pre-applied thermal paste on the H55's is good. Using that myself on a 290 with really good temps (little higher than what you're getting in Valley).

So yeah, make sure your pump is running on 12v constant (you didn't mention if it was, so thought I'd mention that again).

The H55 comes with not a very good fan, so swapping that out for something better like an SP120 performance edition or Deepcool TF120 could possibly show improvements of 3-5 degrees at relative rpm. With one of those fans, you should be able to easily control temps at about 1000-1200rpm on a 285. 1200-1400rpm (50-60%) is enough to keep my 290s in the low 60's running valley at stock clocks.

Also, try wiggling the waterblock on the card. If it moves/twists fairly easily (has a little bit of play), then you don't have the screws tight enough.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You ask this on OCN?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overkill is the norm here. In all seriousness though, it is more than you need, but you will run at least a few degrees C cooler than say a 140mm setup. People are reaching high 40C to 55C temps max with 120mm setups. So its overkill but if you have room for it and want to run it, go for it.


Just a note...with the NZXT coolers (x31, x41, x61, etc) I don't believe you can manually set the pump to run at 100%. You CAN set the pump to 100% in the BIOS which will make sure it is getting the 12V at all times. However, the actual pump speed is determined by the CAM software and is adjusted based on your fan speeds.

I could be wrong on the above, but I have fiddled with my NZXT coolers for hours and that is what I have found. So..set 100% in BIOS (I put mine on DC mode too - ASUS motherboard) and then set whatever profile you want in CAM. Nonetheless it works - my temps are very very good.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> ...Very few G-10 CLC setups use intake on the radiator and get good temps.
> 
> .... "tight" isnt as important as having the pressure even across the cold plate to gpu chip. If its not sitting flat, you will not get the max benefit. It has to be tightened slowly in an X pattern to make sure it seats evenly.


You can actually get really good temps with the GPU rad setup as an intake because it's pulling fresh clean air from outside the case. The problem with having it as intake is it exhausts a significant amount of hot air inside the case. Unless you have some serious exhaust fans setup, everything inside the case will heat up as well.

As for the 2nd point, yes, +1. Very important.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Just a note...with the NZXT coolers (x31, x41, x61, etc) I don't believe you can manually set the pump to run at 100%. You CAN set the pump to 100% in the BIOS which will make sure it is getting the 12V at all times. However, the actual pump speed is determined by the CAM software and is adjusted based on your fan speeds.
> 
> I could be wrong on the above, but I have fiddled with my NZXT coolers for hours and that is what I have found. So..set 100% in BIOS (I put mine on DC mode too - ASUS motherboard) and then set whatever profile you want in CAM. Nonetheless it works - my temps are very very good.


The CAM software simply takes over control of your motherboard fan headers. Similarly, I'm using Speedfan software to control all my fans and it simply overrides the Asus Fan Xpert software settings.

To go further, so if you do want to give the pump 12v constant, you can plug it to 12v molex using an adapter. This is how I'm running all my pumps (3 of them) from 12v molex, so I know they're all running at 12v all the time when the system is powered on. This way you leave all your motherboard fan headers available for controlling all your fans.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> The CAM software simply takes over control of your motherboard fan headers. Similarly, I'm using Speedfan software to control all my fans and it simply overrides the Asus Fan Xpert software settings.
> 
> To go further, so if you do want to give the pump 12v constant, you can plug it to 12v molex using an adapter. This is how I'm running all my pumps (3 of them) from 12v molex, so I know they're all running at 12v all the time when the system is powered on. This way you leave all your motherboard fan headers available for controlling all your fans.


Yea I know Molex is another way to do it (and I have thought about doing that, but I really don't need to)...I plug my cooler pumps into the CPU headers and then I have a NZXT GRID V2 for controlling my case fans, so I don't have a need to free up fan headers (only using 2 fan headers anyways). Then I can simply set the fan curve in my BIOS to 100% and DC mode (effectively doing the same thing as the Molex connection). Then everything else fan related is controlled by the NZXT CAM software. Works really really well and I like having all my fans controlled through one software application.

If there is one thing I have learned with PC building...there is a ton of different ways to do the same thing and everyone has their own ways of doing things...some are better than others and some are not. I would say the Molex vs. my way is an example of good ways to do the same thing.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> You can actually get really good temps with the GPU rad setup as an intake because it's pulling fresh clean air from outside the case. The problem with having it as intake is it exhausts a significant amount of hot air inside the case. Unless you have some serious exhaust fans setup, everything inside the case will heat up as well.
> 
> As for the 2nd point, yes, +1. Very important.


I realize some have had success using it with the fans on intake but in my experience that is the exception and not the norm. I thought i was clear that there are some cases such as what you mention. There is never a one size fits all solution.


----------



## baii

My experience is that tighten by hand doesn't really work well. What I did is draw a line in the screw, count turns,use a screw driver and experiment to see the spread the before final mount. I also cut the nzxt wing of as it is just a pita in itx case.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Yea I know Molex is another way to do it (and I have thought about doing that, but I really don't need to)...I plug my cooler pumps into the CPU headers and then I have a NZXT GRID V2 for controlling my case fans, so I don't have a need to free up fan headers (only using 2 fan headers anyways). Then I can simply set the fan curve in my BIOS to 100% and DC mode (effectively doing the same thing as the Molex connection). Then everything else fan related is controlled by the NZXT CAM software. Works really really well and I like having all my fans controlled through one software application.
> 
> If there is one thing I have learned with PC building...there is a ton of different ways to do the same thing and everyone has their own ways of doing things...some are better than others and some are not. I would say the Molex vs. my way is an example of good ways to do the same thing.


Ah, didn't realize you were also using the GRID fan hub. That's definitely a better way, especially if you have significantly more fans than fan headers on your mobo.







Also keeps things looking clean (less cables visible).

For me, I have my GPU rad fans grouped with a splitter running on one fan header, CPU rad fan on it's own on the CPU header and the front intake fans again, grouped with a splitter on another header. I can control each header separately and each based on a specific temp sensor. So my CPU rad fan only reacts to CPU temps. The front intake fans react to the GPU temps only and don't even turn on until the GPUs hit ~50-55C. And of course, the GPU rad fans remain on minimum rpm and only ramp up based on GPU temps only as well.

Speedfan is a pretty cool and useful fan control software if you just want to use your mobo headers. It's a little tricky to figure out at first, but once you do, it's a breeze. Also gives you variable amounts of granularity in creating your own fan curves, which is nice. I have all the fans ramp up so smoothly you don't even notice the change in rpm.









Definitely multiple ways to setup fans and fan control and none that is one size fits all.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I realize some have had success using it with the fans on intake but in my experience that is the exception and not the norm. I thought i was clear that there are some cases such as what you mention. There is never a one size fits all solution.


I was more so commenting on the point made that good temps could not [often] be achieved when using the rad as intake. I would argue the best temps would be achieved this way (GPU core temps). But, the down side to this, (which outweighs the improved core temps) is warming up the inside of the case, which makes it a less than ideal scenario and one I would not recommend. Unless you have no other choice given the specific case/layout. Like you said, there is no one size fits all.


----------



## RaduZ

Ok so I mounted the G10 again and used AS5 this time (ran out of MX-4) and did all the mounting steps by the book, my pump is pluged in to a molex adapter so it's running at 100% and I get 56C in Heaven (Stable) on my R9 285 with a H55 cooler with the stock fan set at 100%. If I turn the intake fans and other exaust fan a bit higher (@50%-60%) I get 54C. Don't know what to do :-? I have 14 days to think if I return the G10 and H55 or not.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Ah, didn't realize you were also using the GRID fan hub. That's definitely a better way, especially if you have significantly more fans than fan headers on your mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also keeps things looking clean (less cables visible).
> 
> For me, I have my GPU rad fans grouped with a splitter running on one fan header, CPU rad fan on it's own on the CPU header and the front intake fans again, grouped with a splitter on another header. I can control each header separately and each based on a specific temp sensor. So my CPU rad fan only reacts to CPU temps. The front intake fans react to the GPU temps only and don't even turn on until the GPUs hit ~50-55C. And of course, the GPU rad fans remain on minimum rpm and only ramp up based on GPU temps only as well.
> 
> Speedfan is a pretty cool and useful fan control software if you just want to use your mobo headers. It's a little tricky to figure out at first, but once you do, it's a breeze. Also gives you variable amounts of granularity in creating your own fan curves, which is nice. I have all the fans ramp up so smoothly you don't even notice the change in rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely multiple ways to setup fans and fan control and none that is one size fits all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was more so commenting on the point made that good temps could not [often] be achieved when using the rad as intake. I would argue the best temps would be achieved this way (GPU core temps). But, the down side to this, (which outweighs the improved core temps) is warming up the inside of the case, which makes it a less than ideal scenario and one I would not recommend. Unless you have no other choice given the specific case/layout. Like you said, there is no one size fits all.


Yea I have mine setup very similar in CAM...my case fans are based on GPU temps, CPU rad fans on CPU temps and GPU rad fans on GPU temps...I like Speedfan a lot too - if I didn't have the CAM software to control it all I would be using SpeedFan!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Definitely multiple ways to setup fans and fan control and none that is one size fits all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was more so commenting on the point made that good temps could not [often] be achieved when using the rad as intake. I would argue the best temps would be achieved this way (GPU core temps). But, the down side to this, (which outweighs the improved core temps) is warming up the inside of the case, which makes it a less than ideal scenario and one I would not recommend. Unless you have no other choice given the specific case/layout. Like you said, there is no one size fits all.


You are right in that pulling cool air into the radiator is the ideal way, my CPU radiator is set to intake as its what works best for my rig. The problem with running the radiators on intake is exactly what you said, heat saturation. Given the time for heat saturation (gaming an half hour or so) my setup in particular has been 7-10C higher with the radiators set to intake. Now granted this is with two gpus and the single gpu people wont have to deal with as much of the heat, it still just seldom works out with the gpu radiators because of the amount of heat generated and dumped into the case. Sure it can be setup in a manner to make it work if the case allows, but even with an appropriate case, the average user isnt going to redo his entire air circuit for this mod and without doing that they are likely to see higher temps with the fans on intake on the GPU radiator. Perhaps my answer in to generalized but you can search through this thread and see how many times simply changing the fans to exhaust have given people the temps they were looking for. Regardless, we have beat this horse to death and I will beat no more, I encourage users to try it both ways to see if it helps them or not.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaduZ*
> 
> Ok so I mounted the G10 again and used AS5 this time (ran out of MX-4) and did all the mounting steps by the book, my pump is pluged in to a molex adapter so it's running at 100% and I get 56C in Heaven (Stable) on my R9 285 with a H55 cooler with the stock fan set at 100%. If I turn the intake fans and other exaust fan a bit higher (@50%-60%) I get 54C. Don't know what to do :-? I have 14 days to think if I return the G10 and H55 or not.


When you say "stock fan" did you mean the rad fan on the H55? You should be able to get those temps at 60% rad fan speed. Mind you, that is with an SP120, not the stock H55 fan. 56C is pretty good, maybe try it with the rad fan at 60% and see what you get? Try different rad and case fan speeds. It can take some time to get the flow dynamics of your specific setup just right. Also put the side panel back on when you test as running with the side panel off can cause slightly higher or lower temps depending on how you have things setup.

Can you maybe upload picture or two of your setup and explain in a little more detail what fans you have where and where the H55 rad is mounted?

Honestly, I think you're ok, it's just just a matter of getting a better static pressure fan on that rad and optimizing you're air flow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You are right in that pulling cool air into the radiator is the ideal way, my CPU radiator is set to intake as its what works best for my rig. The problem with running the radiators on intake is exactly what you said, heat saturation. Given the time for heat saturation (gaming an half hour or so) my setup in particular has been 7-10C higher with the radiators set to intake. Now granted this is with two gpus and the single gpu people wont have to deal with as much of the heat, it still just seldom works out with the gpu radiators because of the amount of heat generated and dumped into the case. Sure it can be setup in a manner to make it work if the case allows, but even with an appropriate case, the average user isnt going to redo his entire air circuit for this mod and without doing that they are likely to see higher temps with the fans on intake on the GPU radiator. Perhaps my answer in to generalized but you can search through this thread and see how many times simply changing the fans to exhaust have given people the temps they were looking for. Regardless, we have beat this horse to death and I will beat no more, I encourage users to try it both ways to see if it helps them or not.


Indeed, dead horse beyond beaten.









I think we agree, for the most part, and are saying the same thing, just in different ways.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*


Cool build by the way - I like the white theme. Is your CPU cooler an intake since it is mounted on the front?


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaduZ*
> 
> Ok so I mounted the G10 again and used AS5 this time (ran out of MX-4) and did all the mounting steps by the book, my pump is pluged in to a molex adapter so it's running at 100% and I get 56C in Heaven (Stable) on my R9 285 with a H55 cooler with the stock fan set at 100%. If I turn the intake fans and other exaust fan a bit higher (@50%-60%) I get 54C. Don't know what to do :-? I have 14 days to think if I return the G10 and H55 or not.


I don't see the problem. Sure you're at the top end of temps, but it's not a big issue.

Your ambient is going to have a massive impact on it too.

With 22-23 ambient I hit 56 with a Ti. That's still better than 80.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Cool build by the way - I like the white theme. Is your CPU cooler an intake since it is mounted on the front?


Thanks.







Yep, the CPU rad is intake. It doesn't get anywhere near as warm as the GPUs get and it's fan is usually running at 700-900rpm 99% of the time, so it doesn't really put much warm air inside the case.

I like your build too. Very nice. Love the Define S. That's the case I would have gone with if I didn't go for the S340.


----------



## RaduZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> I don't see the problem. Sure you're at the top end of temps, but it's not a big issue.
> 
> Your ambient is going to have a massive impact on it too.
> 
> With 22-23 ambient I hit 56 with a Ti. That's still better than 80.


That is my problem, with the same ambient temps we get the same gpu temps and I have a 285. Anyway I decided I'm keeping the g10 and h55, last night I did a bit of playing around with the card and by increasing my voltage from +45mV to +65mV I got to 1150 Mhz (from 1100) and the temps stayed the same so I gues I can prob do even a higher OC than that.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, the CPU rad is intake. It doesn't get anywhere near as warm as the GPUs get and it's fan is usually running at 700-900rpm 99% of the time, so it doesn't really put much warm air inside the case.
> 
> I like your build too. Very nice. Love the Define S. That's the case I would have gone with if I didn't go for the S340.


Thanks! I originally had my radiator up front too...but my build has changed quite a bit recently (it has changed 3 times lol). I switched from the MSI motherboard to the ASUS VIII Hero and then I just added the G10 and x41 to watercool my 980TI. I gotta update the pics in the next few days since it has changed quite a bit.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaduZ*
> 
> That is my problem, with the same ambient temps we get the same gpu temps and I have a 285. Anyway I decided I'm keeping the g10 and h55, last night I did a bit of playing around with the card and by increasing my voltage from +45mV to +65mV I got to 1150 Mhz (from 1100) and the temps stayed the same so I gues I can prob do even a higher OC than that.


Honestly, the fan that comes with the H55 is mediocre at best. I would put money on it that you would see an improvement in temps by going with a better static pressure fan on the rad (SP120, NF-F12, Fractal venturi HP-12, Deepcool TF120, etc.).









Otherwise, again, I think you're fine and those temps are still way better than what you were getting on air.


----------



## williamdabastrd

Due to some type of shipping error with Newegg, I lucked out and got two Kraken x61s rather than one. I contacted them and they said to keep it, so I'm going to get the Kraken G10 and I want to try and install it on my ASUS 980 Ti STRiX. This is what I bought aside from the actual AIO and G10:

GC-Extreme paste for the GPU, to replace the stuff that comes on the x61. I assume this is what I want to be using?
Small aluminum heat sinks to use on the VRM modules on the front and back of the card.
Copper heat sinks for the VRAM. I know this isn't _really_ necessary, but I'd rather be paranoid than have a dead card.
Thermal pads to hold the heatsinks on. I've never used something like these before, so I would imagine I'm just supposed to cut the pad into smaller pieces and use it where I need to place heatsinks?
Am I missing anything? I have found a lot of information online that is conflicting and I feel somewhat anxious about the whole VRM issue despite many claims that it will be fine. How will multiple x61s in a single system work in CAM?

Also, on a side note, what do you folks do to eliminate the heat output from your machine into the room, effecting the ambient temp? My room isn't very large and it gets pretty warm when I'm playing something intensive for longer than an hour.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> Due to some type of shipping error with Newegg, I lucked out and got two Kraken x61s rather than one. I contacted them and they said to keep it, so I'm going to get the Kraken G10 and I want to try and install it on my ASUS 980 Ti STRiX. This is what I bought aside from the actual AIO and G10:
> 
> GC-Extreme paste for the GPU, to replace the stuff that comes on the x61. I assume this is what I want to be using?
> Small aluminum heat sinks to use on the VRM modules on the front and back of the card.
> Copper heat sinks for the VRAM. I know this isn't _really_ necessary, but I'd rather be paranoid than have a dead card.
> Thermal pads to hold the heatsinks on. I've never used something like these before, so I would imagine I'm just supposed to cut the pad into smaller pieces and use it where I need to place heatsinks?
> Am I missing anything? I have found a lot of information online that is conflicting and I feel somewhat anxious about the whole VRM issue despite many claims that it will be fine. How will multiple x61s in a single system work in CAM?
> 
> Also, on a side note, what do you folks do to eliminate the heat output from your machine into the room, effecting the ambient temp? My room isn't very large and it gets pretty warm when I'm playing something intensive for longer than an hour.


If you have a Strix it should have a VRM heat sink already installed on the GPUs PCB. It will also have a back plate. At least thats been the case on my strix 770s, 970s and 980s. If the vrms/ heatsink is on the rear of the PCB (rear not back), and it should be on that card, you are worrying for nothing. The fan on the G-10 is more than adequate for cooling the VRMs even with a healthy over clock. Putting heat sinks on the VRAM as you already know is just up to you. Just be careful and clean everything good to give them the best chance of staying on the vram chips. Nothing worse than a great conductor bouncing about the mainboard etc.

As for your room, thats this mods job is to get it out of the case fast. Its going to heat your room up quickly. Not that it wouldnt otherwise, but you will notice quicker with this mod. I can trip the AC switch on the hallway thermostat from the back bedroom within 10 minutes of starting to game with a pair of 980s.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> Due to some type of shipping error with Newegg, I lucked out and got two Kraken x61s rather than one. I contacted them and they said to keep it, so I'm going to get the Kraken G10 and I want to try and install it on my ASUS 980 Ti STRiX. This is what I bought aside from the actual AIO and G10:
> 
> GC-Extreme paste for the GPU, to replace the stuff that comes on the x61. I assume this is what I want to be using?
> Small aluminum heat sinks to use on the VRM modules on the front and back of the card.
> Copper heat sinks for the VRAM. I know this isn't _really_ necessary, but I'd rather be paranoid than have a dead card.
> Thermal pads to hold the heatsinks on. I've never used something like these before, so I would imagine I'm just supposed to cut the pad into smaller pieces and use it where I need to place heatsinks?
> Am I missing anything? I have found a lot of information online that is conflicting and I feel somewhat anxious about the whole VRM issue despite many claims that it will be fine. How will multiple x61s in a single system work in CAM?
> 
> Also, on a side note, what do you folks do to eliminate the heat output from your machine into the room, effecting the ambient temp? My room isn't very large and it gets pretty warm when I'm playing something intensive for longer than an hour.


You need nylon finishing washers too. Screw size #6.


----------



## skkane

I got two of those fractal design venturi HP14 fans to replace the noisy nzxt ones that come with the kraken x41's. Noise wise it's better but temp wise it's a big joke. +5C per card with these fans. Guess it's hard to beat those 2000rpm monsters...

Seems like I'd need to run push/pull of these fractal's to get anywhere near the same temps as with the stock fans, which would make things bulkier. Happy the noise went down but don't believe those reviews...

I'm seeing loads of 55/57C during gta v with them VS 49/52 with the original fans. 1500rpm vs 2000rpm, makes sense though. No such thing as simillar performance at lower rpm's.


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> You need nylon finishing washers too. Screw size #6.


I assume the default mounting stuff from the x61 won't work then? I'll have to make a trip to the hardware store.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If you have a Strix it should have a VRM heat sink already installed (_... more content_)
> 
> As for your room, thats this mods job is to get it out of the case fast. (_... more content_)


That is good to know... hopefully that is indeed the case. No amount of Googling has yielded me an image of the VRM cooling solution from the Ti, only the 980 non-Ti.

Oh, I understand, I was wondering if anybody had any neat ideas to move the heat out of their room efficiently other than the A/C unit. As for the heat from the PC, perhaps I'll put a dryer door or small chimney to outside to keep the room cool haha.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> I assume the default mounting stuff from the x61 won't work then? I'll have to make a trip to the hardware store.
> That is good to know... hopefully that is indeed the case. No amount of Googling has yielded me an image of the VRM cooling solution from the Ti, only the 980 non-Ti.
> 
> Oh, I understand, I was wondering if anybody had any neat ideas to move the heat out of their room efficiently other than the A/C unit. As for the heat from the PC, perhaps I'll put a dryer door or small chimney to outside to keep the room cool haha.


The VRM heat sink and cooler ASUS uses has changed very little. They call it STRIX but its just a package name, the cooler is a variant of their DIRECT CU II Cooler and they have had the PCB mounted VRM sink since the 600 series Kepler. This cooler and VRM heatsink setup allows them to vary up the VRMs package which they are prone to do anyway. The 770s had a 10+2 design and this cooler/vrm setup worked on it. I actually havnt looked at the power requirement on the 980ti but its likely similar or less robust with maxwells overall efficiency increase than what they used on the 770/780s. I will look around and see what I can dig up for you as Im curious now. No question the 970 and 980 use this design, ive owned them. Now to figure out this 980ti. The only reason im not sure on it is I do believe it uses 3 fans which is the only big change made to this cooler since Kepler

Uh oh: Already wrong on one thing.......its using a 12+2 phase from one view I saw.

Im afraid im forced to eat my words. Heres your pic



It is integrated into the cooler. At least now ya know.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

The Strix 980ti does not use a dedicated VRM heatsink. Cooled by the stock cooler.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> The Strix does not use a dedicated VRM heatsink. Cooled by the stock cooler.


The 980ti does not. The 970 Strix and 980 strix do


----------



## williamdabastrd

Thanks for the clarification! Glad I bought some cooling for the VRMs then!


----------



## MattyMatt

Does one really need the heatsinks on the VRMs? My Ti is doing fine without them. Just have that NZXT fan blowing on them and it all seems good. Though I'm also not sure if there is any software that lets me monitor it.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Your vrms have nothing on them? They have a high temp limit but i wouldnt let them go commando.


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Does one really need the heatsinks on the VRMs? My Ti is doing fine without them. Just have that NZXT fan blowing on them and it all seems good. Though I'm also not sure if there is any software that lets me monitor it.


Need? No. But not having VRM cooling can shorting the lifespan of your GPU significantly if you push it too hard, and it only takes one buggy game to push it far enough that the VRMs die. Generally solid fans blowing on the card in tandem with good case circulation will be plenty, but heatsinks offer significant improvement for ~$10-20 of investment. I'd rather rest easy knowing it is cooled properly then check it all the time to make sure.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> Need? No. But not having VRM cooling can shorting the lifespan of your GPU significantly if you push it too hard, and it only takes one buggy game to push it far enough that the VRMs die. Generally solid fans blowing on the card in tandem with good case circulation will be plenty, but heatsinks offer significant improvement for ~$10-20 of investment. I'd rather rest easy knowing it is cooled properly then check it all the time to make sure.


Guess I'll see where I can get that stuff in Canada without paying atrocious shipping.

I haven't OCed yet, but I was going to.


----------



## Kold

I am going to put a G10 on the Gigabyte G1. I haven't seen anyone else do it, so we'll see if it works.

Can I get a link to some good heatsinks for the VRMs? Thanks.

EDIT: Also, please forgive my incoming stupidity, but are the red outline squares the VRMs? Is there anything else that I should put little heatsinks on? Thanks!


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Yes those are vrms, no nothing else "requires" heatsink to operate perfectly fine.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Guess I'll see where I can get that stuff in Canada without paying atrocious shipping.
> 
> I haven't OCed yet, but I was going to.


Overclocking is the keyword for what your asking I think. As others mentioned, you can get by without a heat sink on the VRMs as long as you have plenty of air blowing on them but I would not ever recommend it and I would NEVER try overclocking without having as much cooling on the VRMs as possible. When you over volt the amount of power and the associated heat generated increase dramatically. Its one thing to take a chance on a cheaper low tier GPU but on the more expensive GPUs, why would you take the chance over $20 worth of parts?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> I am going to put a G10 on the Gigabyte G1. I haven't seen anyone else do it, so we'll see if it works.
> 
> Can I get a link to some good heatsinks for the VRMs? Thanks.
> 
> EDIT: Also, please forgive my incoming stupidity, but are the red outline squares the VRMs? Is there anything else that I should put little heatsinks on? Thanks!


Nothing else HAS to have heatsinks. But a lot of people put them on the VRAM chips. There are a couple reasons you might do this.
1. Heat kills electrical components, the cooler you keep things the longer they will last.
2. An extension of heat kills, if you plan on trying to significantly overclock your memory then you should consider adding heat sinks to the VRAM chips as a cooler chip can typically be overclocked further or at least be more stable.

Its not a bad idea, but it is a potentially problematic one as its tough to get these heatsinks to stay on the chips. Few want a permanent solution as it would make it difficult to sell should you decide to or, you would probably have to sell the entire GPU/G-10/CLC combo in order to sell it at all. So the various epoxy TIM materials are out for 99.9% of people. That leaves thermal tape and there are a few brands out there with some working better than others. People will argue about which is better and honestly I dont have an opinion as ive only tried one or two brands. The problem is if they fall off while the system is in operation. Its not hard to understand why a piece of conductive material bouncing around through a machine constructed of various circuit boards, mosfets,capacitors whatever is not a good thing. Now im being kind of dramatic with that last sentence as I am not aware of anyone this has actually happened to although im aware of many people having the heatsinks themselves fall off the chips during the heating and cooling cycles of a computers operation.

I ran a single test on a SLI GTX 770 setup I had previously. There was no significant increase in the memory OC ability that I could report. But there is always bullet 1. There is no question keeping electrical components cooler is better. But the GDDR5 chips are designed to run at higher temps than what you will hit and I honestly cant remember when the last GPU I had that died, died as a result of a the memory failing. Even though I never had one fall off (I have my own voodoo method for helping the thermal tape stick better) for the remainder of the time I ran the 770s, I have not added VRAM heatsinks to the 970s I had since or the 980s I have now. Also, I have not added them to any clients computers or any of the machines I have built for work. So really its up to your personal opinion and/or experience as to whether you want to fool with adding heatsinks to VRAM chips. I personally do not recommend it with the G-10 mod unless you are intending to overclock the memory heavily. While it may not increase OC potential much, it would undoubtedly help with stability.

That got wordy. My bad.... TLR:

"I" "personally" (as in this is my opinion and mine alone...to be clear) do not recommend adding heatsinks with the G-10 mod unless you are intending to overclock the memory heavily. While it may not increase OC potential much, it would undoubtedly help with stability. Otherwise my recommendation is to skip it since they can be difficult to keep them on withe chips with thermal tape and there is a small risk of shorting something out should they fall off and land in the wrong place during operation.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing else HAS to have heatsinks. But a lot of people put them on the VRAM chips. There are a couple reasons you might do this.
> 1. Heat kills electrical components, the cooler you keep things the longer they will last.
> 2. An extension of heat kills, if you plan on trying to significantly overclock your memory then you should consider adding heat sinks to the VRAM chips as a cooler chip can typically be overclocked further or at least be more stable.
> 
> Its not a bad idea, but it is a potentially problematic one as its tough to get these heatsinks to stay on the chips. Few want a permanent solution as it would make it difficult to sell should you decide to or, you would probably have to sell the entire GPU/G-10/CLC combo in order to sell it at all. So the various epoxy TIM materials are out for 99.9% of people. That leaves thermal tape and there are a few brands out there with some working better than others. People will argue about which is better and honestly I dont have an opinion as ive only tried one or two brands. The problem is if they fall off while the system is in operation. Its not hard to understand why a piece of conductive material bouncing around through a machine constructed of various circuit boards, mosfets,capacitors whatever is not a good thing. Now im being kind of dramatic with that last sentence as I am not aware of anyone this has actually happened to although im aware of many people having the heatsinks themselves fall off the chips during the heating and cooling cycles of a computers operation.
> 
> I ran a single test on a SLI GTX 770 setup I had previously. There was no significant increase in the memory OC ability that I could report. But there is always bullet 1. There is no question keeping electrical components cooler is better. But the GDDR5 chips are designed to run at higher temps than what you will hit and I honestly cant remember when the last GPU I had that died, died as a result of a the memory failing. Even though I never had one fall off (I have my own voodoo method for helping the thermal tape stick better) for the remainder of the time I ran the 770s, I have not added VRAM heatsinks to the 970s I had since or the 980s I have now. Also, I have not added them to any clients computers or any of the machines I have built for work. So really its up to your personal opinion and/or experience as to whether you want to fool with adding heatsinks to VRAM chips. I personally do not recommend it with the G-10 mod unless you are intending to overclock the memory heavily. While it may not increase OC potential much, it would undoubtedly help with stability.
> 
> 
> 
> That got wordy. My bad.... TLR:
> 
> "I" "personally" (as in this is my opinion and mine alone...to be clear) do not recommend adding heatsinks with the G-10 mod unless you are intending to overclock the memory heavily. While it may not increase OC potential much, it would undoubtedly help with stability. Otherwise my recommendation is to skip it since they can be difficult to keep them on withe chips with thermal tape and there is a small risk of shorting something out should they fall off and land in the wrong place during operation.


^Agree with this 100%.


----------



## baii

The vrm thing is more due to the 290s, it draw so much power on stock, and when people over volt, the temp skyrockets.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baii*
> 
> The vrm thing is more due to the 290s, it draw so much power on stock, and when people over volt, the temp skyrockets.


Not at all due to the 290 alone or over volting. VRMs require cooling. The more powerful the card, the more is needed. You can get the <100 TDP cards and not fool with cooling the VRMs with sinks or something. Not sure what the line in the sand is, but its far below what the 290s TDP is.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> I got two of those fractal design venturi HP14 fans to replace the noisy nzxt ones that come with the kraken x41's. Noise wise it's better but temp wise it's a big joke. +5C per card with these fans. Guess it's hard to beat those 2000rpm monsters...
> 
> Seems like I'd need to run push/pull of these fractal's to get anywhere near the same temps as with the stock fans, which would make things bulkier. Happy the noise went down but don't believe those reviews...
> 
> I'm seeing loads of 55/57C during gta v with them VS 49/52 with the original fans. 1500rpm vs 2000rpm, makes sense though. No such thing as simillar performance at lower rpm's.


Find this quite interesting. I think the Fractal HP-14s are awesome fans. I run them on both my x41 and x61. Temps never changed from the stock NZXT fans - BUT I would never run the NZXT fans at 100% - those things are LOUD. I have an EK Vardar fan as well that I tried on the x41...no better than the Fractal HP14s. I would say the Fractal HP14s are great fans. I don't think it is fair to say "dont believe those reviews".


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Find this quite interesting. I think the Fractal HP-14s are awesome fans. I run them on both my x41 and x61. Temps never changed from the stock NZXT fans - BUT I would never run the NZXT fans at 100% - those things are LOUD. I have an EK Vardar fan as well that I tried on the x41...no better than the Fractal HP14s. I would say the Fractal HP14s are great fans. I don't think it is fair to say "dont believe those reviews".


I jumped to early to conclusion. I had their fan curve set to go to 100% at 50C. I have it set to full @ 45C now and after 45mins of gtav temps were 51/52C, vs 55/56. I am happy now.

I did not run those nzxts at full blast myself, i had them ramp up to 100% at 60C but temps never reached that point. One of them had a bad bearing and was making a bad noise past 1800RPM.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Not at all due to the 290 alone or over volting. VRMs require cooling. The more powerful the card, the more is needed.


This. Anything from a 970 or 290/390 and up needs VRM cooling in the form of a heatsink + fan. I would even go so far as to say it's not a recommendation but a requirement.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Find this quite interesting. I think the Fractal HP-14s are awesome fans. I run them on both my x41 and x61. Temps never changed from the stock NZXT fans - BUT I would never run the NZXT fans at 100% - those things are LOUD. I have an EK Vardar fan as well that I tried on the x41...no better than the Fractal HP14s. I would say the Fractal HP14s are great fans. I don't think it is fair to say "dont believe those reviews".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> I jumped to early to conclusion. I had their fan curve set to go to 100% at 50C. I have it set to full @ 45C now and after 45mins of gtav temps were 51/52C, vs 55/56. I am happy now.
> 
> I did not run those nzxts at full blast myself, i had them ramp up to 100% at 60C but temps never reached that point. One of them had a bad bearing and was making a bad noise past 1800RPM.


There's a certain sweet spot for most fans where they perform within a large percentage of their total capability and still remain relatively quiet. The difference in temps between 80% and 100% fan speed is usually not that significant, yet the difference in noise produced can be.

Personally, I value keeping my PC running as quiet as possible over getting the absolute lowest temps possible. I don't mind if my GPUs run 5-10*C warmer while remaining silent. With the water cooling, the GPUs are still operating 30*C lower than they were on air and that's even with an overclock. I set up my GPU rad fans on a custom curve so that they usually hit about 60% which is enough to hold them in the low 60*C's running a moderately demanding game. The max they can run at is 70% which I have yet to see them reach as the GPUs would have to hit 70*C for that to happen.

Obviously, this is just my preference and I don't expect everyone to follow what I do. But my point is simply this; you shouldn't have to run your rad fan(s) at 100% or even close to it to see good temps. And if and when you do compare one fan to another, you need to test them at the same rpm. If you don't, it's not a proper/fair comparison (apples to apples).


----------



## CC268

Chargeit posted an awesome fan curve for MSI Afterburner in the MSI 980TI thread. Check it out...very good fan curve...basically matched temp with fan speed with a 5 degree hysteresis...(45% fan speed at 45*C, 50% at 50*C, etc...). I have yet to go over 50% fan speed and it prevents your fans from constantly ramping up and down since it is a step function.

Oh and your right MEC - the difference in temps between 100% fan speed and even 60% fan speed is very small for the most part.


----------



## danny2146

Hi, my kraken g10 should arrive this evening and I need some clarification before putting it on my card. I have an EVGA 980ti ACX 2.0+ (non classified). So if I remove the acx cooler and the midplate, how should I put heat sinks on the VRM? Do i use the pre apllied tape or do I use the thermal tape that was on the acx cooler? Will that work as well or do I have to buy another thermal tape?
Also, I managed to find a 25x25x1.6mm copper shim but it's not gonna be here for the next 2-3 weeks (it's from freakin England). Does the shim method be better or the heat sinks methid, although I have to say Im not that patient


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> Also, I managed to find a 25x25x1.6mm copper shim but it's not gonna be here for the next 2-3 weeks (it's from freakin England). Does the shim method be better or the heat sinks methid, although I have to say Im not that patient


Im not sure im understanding you correctly. What do you meant the shim method or the heat sink method? The heat sinks would go on the VRMs and the shim on GPU processor. If you need a shim for your setup then that means you need that copper shim between the cold plate on the pump and the GPU die because the mid plate is slightly raised over the die. If thats the situation, wait on the shim. The midplate typically gives enough surface area for the fan to cool though some place heatsinks over the area anyway. Some one with a similar card will clarify that.

Are you talking about removing the mid plate too?


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im not sure im understanding you correctly. What do you meant the shim method or the heat sink method? The heat sinks would go on the VRMs and the shim on GPU processor. If you need a shim for your setup then that means you need that copper shim between the cold plate on the pump and the GPU die because the mid plate is slightly raised over the die. If thats the situation, wait on the shim. The midplate typically gives enough surface area for the fan to cool though some place heatsinks over the area anyway. Some one with a similar card will clarify that.
> 
> Are you talking about removing the mid plate too?


I looked around and sone ppl said that keeping the evga midplate for vrm cooling and use the copper shim on the gpu is good enough. However, some also said that removing the midplate and NOT use the shim (the pump already make good contact without the midplate) will be better. I didnt know what to do so I bought the copper shim and some allumnum vrm heatsinks to see which is better and since they dont cost a whole lot so why not. What im trying to do here is the EVGA midplate will have some thermal pads that contact with the vrm. Do I remove the midplate, use those thermal pads on the vrm, scrape the pre apllied tape on the alluminum vrm heatsinks that i bought and put these on top of the vrm. Or do I keep the midplate, wait for the copper shim to arrive, and do that method?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> I looked around and sone ppl said that keeping the evga midplate for vrm cooling and use the copper shim on the gpu is good enough. However, some also said that removing the midplate and NOT use the shim (the pump already make good contact without the midplate) will be better. I didnt know what to do so I bought the copper shim and some allumnum vrm heatsinks to see which is better and since they dont cost a whole lot so why not. What im trying to do here is the EVGA midplate will have some thermal pads that contact with the vrm. Do I remove the midplate, use those thermal pads on the vrm, scrape the pre apllied tape on the alluminum vrm heatsinks that i bought and put these on top of the vrm. Or do I keep the midplate, wait for the copper shim to arrive, and do that method?


I am not particularly familiar with that GPU. So my first question is, by removing the midplate do you lose the back plate? I have seen some designs like this but am unsure if this is one of them. If so I would personally not want to lose the back plate. If not then its really up to you how you want to handle it. I have heard no real complaints out of the people running with the midplates. The temp difference between running with the shim/midplate and without should be only a few degrees C.

There are several people who frequent this thread running GPUs similar to yours. I would wait and get some input from them as they are more able to help you with this particular question. Check back later and im sure some will chime in on the issue.

As for the thermal tape, if you do end up removing the mid plate then I would use the tape already preinstalled on the VRM heatsink you purchased. If you do remove it, make sure you get everything cleaned off before the installation or it will not stay on.


----------



## MattyMatt

Anyone know a good site to get the small heatsinks and thermal pads in Canada? I'm finding them, but the shipping, yikes.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Isnt NCIX in Canada? They prob have some.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZWingerRyRy*
> 
> Isnt NCIX in Canada? They prob have some.


If they do, I can't find them.

I have some old GPUs, maybe I can cut something from them.


----------



## danny2146

So I went and install the G10 onto my EVGA 980ti ACX 2.0+. Here are so pictures:

Opening up the midplate..


Idk, these OEM air coolers are still the best looking compare to other water block (IMO air coolers look way better than water blocks...)



Heatsinks on... Not the best VRM heatsinks placement here..


Closeups:



There is a slight bent in the PCB but I'm too lazy to remove the thing out and loosen it (Took me a while to put the radiator on...)


Finished!


I haven't tried gaming yet, but in Valley at Ultra after 30 minutes loop, max temp is 46 ~ 48 degree Celsius. Idle at around 25 degree, will be checking back after some maxed out and modified ini setting Witcher 3








EDIT: My radiator fans are connected to a splitter and to a fan controller (Sentry Mix 2). I set the thing to lower than halfway (~7V I think) during testing.


----------



## danny2146

Bad news... Vrm heatsinks start to fall off the thermalpad. I think the oad has lost its adhesive. Right now I have two choice, either keep waiting for the shim or get a new pad, but i guess im waiting for the ahim then. Just hope it will not increase the temp much...
Edit: for now placing the thermal pad back on the stock cooler and use the preapllied tape on the alluminum heatsink. Also stop all of my gpu overclock for safety measure (i dont want my stock cooler back on bc I have seen the light of liquid cooling)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> Bad news... Vrm heatsinks start to fall off the thermalpad. I think the oad has lost its adhesive. Right now I have two choice, either keep waiting for the shim or get a new pad, but i guess im waiting for the ahim then. Just hope it will not increase the temp much...
> Edit: for now placing the thermal pad back on the stock cooler and use the preapllied tape on the alluminum heatsink. Also stop all of my gpu overclock for safety measure (i dont want my stock cooler back on bc I have seen the light of liquid cooling)


Ok I misunderstood you, i thought you had a vrm heatsink with preapplied thermal tape. The material used between the midplate and vrms on these from EVGA isnt meant to hold something but to be sandwiched between the midplate and vrms or a vrm attached via screws. One side has adhesive the other is not very sticky to allow removal of the midplate without destroying the material. You would in fact have to clean it all off to do things like you have now and for them to stay on. Regardless, I think it best to leave the midplate on. I really dont think you will see much of an increase in temps on the vrms and maybe a few C on the GPU from heat saturation. BTW This is an example of a VRM heat sink on this GPU


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ok I misunderstood you, i thought you had a vrm heatsink with preapplied thermal tape. The material used between the midplate and vrms on these from EVGA isnt meant to hold something but to be sandwiched between the midplate and vrms or a vrm attached via screws. One side has adhesive the other is not very sticky to allow removal of the midplate without destroying the material. You would in fact have to clean it all off to do things like you have now and for them to stay on. Regardless, I think it best to leave the midplate on. I really dont think you will see much of an increase in temps on the vrms and maybe a few C on the GPU from heat saturation. BTW This is an example of a VRM heat sink on this GPU


I heared a lot of ppl said that the pre apllied tape on the heatsinks are not good, and it's better to use a thermal pad and put the heatsink on top of it, and as I saw, the pad on the midplate is no good. I would love to leave the midplate on if the shim is not 1 month away (I just checked, a whole month to ship). So a new thermal pad should be arrived on Monday, I'm gonna try that one and see.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> I heared a lot of ppl said that the pre apllied tape on the heatsinks are not good, and it's better to use a thermal pad and put the heatsink on top of it, and as I saw, the pad on the midplate is no good. I would love to leave the midplate on if the shim is not 1 month away (I just checked, a whole month to ship). So a new thermal pad should be arrived on Monday, I'm gonna try that one and see.


The entire tape thing is up for debate. So much has to do with how its applied, how well everythings cleaned etc as to whether it works well. I really have no answer as to whats best there.


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The entire tape thing is up for debate. So much has to do with how its applied, how well everythings cleaned etc as to whether it works well. I really have no answer as to whats best there.


I used like half a gallon of 92% isopropyl alcohol to wipe every chips before putting anything on. The new pad said to have some type of adhesives on both sides so that would work better than what I have now. One question, as long as Im not playing any GPU intensive game, VRM heat is not an issue right? (playing exclusively csgo until the pad arrive)


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> I used like half a gallon of 92% isopropyl alcohol to wipe every chips before putting anything on. The new pad said to have some type of adhesives on both sides so that would work better than what I have now. One question, as long as Im not playing any GPU intensive game, VRM heat is not an issue right? (playing exclusively csgo until the pad arrive)


Danny, why did you even bother with those mini heatsinks? Your card comes with a mid plate for cooling of all those components. I was scratching my head when you removed it. Put it back on and TRY to install the G10 with the mid plate still intact. Problem solved. IF the AIO doesn't make contact with the GPU die, then get a copper shim and you're set.

Here's the video explaining exactly how to do it on the Evga cards that have the mid plates and back plates.




EDIT: My bad, I just saw your post about the shim you ordered being 1 month away. I say leave it stock cooled until it arrives, then.


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Danny, why did you even bother with those mini heatsinks? Your card comes with a mid plate for cooling of all those components. I was scratching my head when you removed it. Put it back on and TRY to install the G10 with the mid plate still intact. Problem solved. IF the AIO doesn't make contact with the GPU die, then get a copper shim and you're set.
> 
> Here's the video explaining exactly how to do it on the Evga cards that have the mid plates and back plates.


I've already saw that video many times, the main problem right now is the copper shim won't be arrived for a another month. I will be doing the same thing the guy in the video do as soon as the shim arrive. For now, if I want to play any game with a peace of mind, I have to find a way to dissipate the VRM heat. That will be taken care of by Monday when my new Thermal Pad arrive. And when my copper shim arrive, I will install the backplate, midplate back on along with the shim. As for the extra heatsink, I'll just slap that on the midplate for additional cooling (doesn't hurt, right?).


----------



## Kold

Yes, my bad.. my bad. I didn't see that part in your post above. I apologize!

And, I personally wouldn't put those extra ones on. But, I don't see how it would hurt. Unless someone else wants to chime in.


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Yes, my bad.. my bad. I didn't see that part in your post above. I apologize!


Lol, it's cool. I kinda wish the installation steps should be simpler. I was waiting for the corsair hg10 n980, but the thing was defective and they have to issue a recall, that's why I went with the Kraken g10, but EVGA card requires a shim to work, and it's not sending to me until next month







And since I've already experienced the joy of liquid cooling I can't just reinstall my stock cooler back on. Annoyed me a little bit


----------



## Kold

Where do you live? I have 5 of them


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Where do you live? I have 5 of them


I live in Illinois.


----------



## Kold

pm me your address and ill ship one to you monday. maybe it will arrive sooner


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> pm me your address and ill ship one to you monday. maybe it will arrive sooner


There ya go Danny2146. Problem solved. As for your other question about gaming without anything on the VRMs. you should be able to play as long as you dont push it to far. The fan on the G-10 bracket should be putting a good amount of air directly on them. If you start seeing anything funny, artificating or whatever, then back off.


----------



## Kold

Is it possible to fit a 120 mm fan in that bracket somehow?

Also, can I get a link for the little VRM heatsinks? Having a little difficulty finding some.


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Is it possible to fit a 120 mm fan in that bracket somehow?
> 
> Also, can I get a link for the little VRM heatsinks? Having a little difficulty finding some.


I found these on amazon
Nexus 80mm or 92mm Fan Slot to 120mm Fan Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C7IQ1O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_unpuwb539SZCA
It would look ridiculous on the g10 bracket though, that is if the thing fits. Also the heatsinks:
Cosmos ® 20 PCS mini Aluminum Chips VGA RAM Cooling Heatsinks heat sink cooler + Cosmos Cable Tie https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JppuwbZ44SQ8V


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Is it possible to fit a 120 mm fan in that bracket somehow?
> 
> Also, can I get a link for the little VRM heatsinks? Having a little difficulty finding some.


The 92mm fan that comes with the G10 is virtually silent at 100% and moves a good amount of air over the VRMs. There's really no reason to use a different fan or a bigger fan.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> I found these on amazon
> Nexus 80mm or 92mm Fan Slot to 120mm Fan Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C7IQ1O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_unpuwb539SZCA
> It would look ridiculous on the g10 bracket though, that is if the thing fits. Also the heatsinks:
> Cosmos ® 20 PCS mini Aluminum Chips VGA RAM Cooling Heatsinks heat sink cooler + Cosmos Cable Tie https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JppuwbZ44SQ8V


Thanks for the links


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Didn't go the copper shim route? Midplate coulda stayed then.


----------



## MattyMatt

I ordered these heatsinks: http://www.amazon.ca/Memory-Cooler-Heatsink-Blue-Silver/dp/B00H8Q7UCK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1448176470&sr=8-8&keywords=VGA+RAM

They going to be small enough?


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> I ordered these heatsinks: http://www.amazon.ca/Memory-Cooler-Heatsink-Blue-Silver/dp/B00H8Q7UCK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1448176470&sr=8-8&keywords=VGA+RAM
> 
> They going to be small enough?


Edit: Hang on, they will fit your vram, but as for vrm it will be a too big. Vrm are usually 7mmx7mm or 0.25x 0.25in


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> Edit: Hang on, they will fit your vram, but as for vrm it will be a too big. Vrm are usually 7mmx7mm or 0.25x 0.25in


Damn. I'm trying to find something small in Canada, but so far no go!

If anyone has links to a good set from aliexpress, that would be appreciated.


----------



## MattyMatt

OK, so I think I've spent more time on AliExpress than anyone ever should.

Will these do for the VRM: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/PC-Radiator-Others-MOS-Radiator/1864684796.html
And then these ones for VRAM: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-50pcs-Lot-8-8-8-8-5-mm-Ram-Black-Heatsink-With-Thermal-Conductive/32292126588.html
Or better these: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/PC-Radiator-CHIP-Radiator-RAM-Radiator-B16/1264635_1866300039.html

Sorry for all these questions. They're just going to take forever to get here, so I want to order the right thing first time around.


----------



## danny2146

The VRM ones will fit, those are exactly the ones that I put on my card. As for your VRAM, go with the copper ones, those also look like the ones that I have. Although depend on your card, you might need more than 8 pieces, mine uses 12.


----------



## skkane

The copper ones are heavier and can fall more easily. You'd need real sticky pads.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> The copper ones are heavier and can fall more easily. You'd need real sticky pads.


I had good luck with the copper ones i installed on the two GTX 770s. I laid them down flat and installed the tape and heat sinks. I used a hair dryer to heat them up pretty well without getting stupid with it for about 5 minutes all while having an object on top of the heat sinks putting a small amount of pressure on them. after a couple heating and cooling cycles i left them overnight with the dead weight on top. I call it my voodoo and I have no idea if it really made a difference but i did not have one fall off. The aluminum ones are easier to keep on but they do not conduct as well as copper.


----------



## MattyMatt

Ordered, hopefully they'll get here before Christmas. I've got four more weeks of school, so fingers crossed.


----------



## danny2146

I opted to get an EVGA backplate because I want to give the card some type of support and lessen the bending problem, as you can see the backplate won't fit without a midplate so I used some zip ties and the NZXT backplate to secure it. The new thermal pad is very sticky, which is good. The heatsinks stay there now, it won't move anywhere unless I pry them out. I also remove the padding on the NZXT backplate so that the EVGA bracket can fit, but I also have to get some washers because without them the thumbscrews on the bracket will not tighten down.
Edit: Forgot the upload the pcb with all my heatsinks on. The alluminum ones has been scraped clean of their pre applied adhesive. I use an aftermarket thermal pad that had bith side adhesive.









During Valley bechmark, temp maxed out at 42~46 degree. 1337MHz core, 3802MHz mem. During testing, the EVGA backplate got a bit warming around the VRM area, which is good, that means it helps transferring the heat from the VRM.


----------



## Kold

Which AIO are you using?

Also, to everyone, can I or *can I not* use these heatsinks with the adhesive they come with? All the reviews say they both stuck fine. So?

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Which AIO are you using?
> 
> Also, to everyone, can I or *can I not* use these heatsinks with the adhesive they come with? All the reviews say they both stuck fine. So?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A


Mine is a H75 (it was on sale for $50 lol)
I think the adhesive is fine, but for peace of mind, you can di it my way (takes $10 extra for the thermal pad and time to scrape the adhesive off the alluminum heatsinks)


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I had good luck with the copper ones i installed on the two GTX 770s. I laid them down flat and installed the tape and heat sinks. I used a hair dryer to heat them up pretty well without getting stupid with it for about 5 minutes all while having an object on top of the heat sinks putting a small amount of pressure on them. after a couple heating and cooling cycles i left them overnight with the dead weight on top. I call it my voodoo and I have no idea if it really made a difference but i did not have one fall off. The aluminum ones are easier to keep on but they do not conduct as well as copper.


lol the copper ones have some decent adhesive though. All i did was cleaned the vram with some alcohol first, use an air can to dry it and just slapped them on, wiggled them around so they stick better


----------



## williamdabastrd

Update on my progress: Didn't need any of the extra stuff like screws and whatnot people claimed. The ASUS 980 Ti STRIX did _not_ have VRM cooling that you could use, as it is part of the heatsink the fan shroud is attached to.

At this point I have found a somewhat bittersweet compromise, as it turns out that powering the GPU pump via the CPU_OPT header doesn't provide enough power at 100% for some reason or another on my Z170X Gaming 5, resulting in a horrid sound that comes from the pump when operated. I still hear a soft hum-like sound that is noticeable if you listen for it, but nothing horrendous compared to that *_click_, _click_, _click_*.I ordered a Noctua NF-A9 from Amazon for ~$20 and used the included Molex->PWM power adapter to just give both Kraken x61s full power at all times. I then put the fans for the CPU rad on the CPU and CPU_OPT headers, and the fans for the GPU rad on the SysFan2 and SysFan3 headers so that I can control them software-side.

This leads to a problem, however, as I have no fan spots available for the large fan at the front of my case (which would be an ideal exhaust solution since it would pull the heat away from my components and the rads all in on fell swoop, giving a natural component->rad->air transfer with no cross-flow) and I also don't have space for any of the 140mm fans elsewhere. I expected my temps to climb over time due to the current setup I have (no strong horizontal airflow, rads on top of case), but I found that Fallout 4 maxed out at 1440p + 90FPS + 90hz over the course of two hours in constant "Godrays" exposure led to a highest temp of 34°C, with my idle after cooling off averaging in the 18°C-22°C range. I unfortunately have no way to measure the temperatures of the VRMs, which is giving me a bit of anxiety, but I know it should be fine since I solidly attached thermal pads to the VRAM, VRMs, and am using the STRIX backplate.

Since I have to redo my cable management that I undid after hours of meticulous work, I am going to also install a VGA->PWM adapter so that I can put the VRM fan to always 100% and can control the GPU rad fans in Afterburner. I will also attempt to convert my potato into a camera (erm, I mean... phone) to takes pictures of everything if I can.

*Side Note:* I purchased these and I'm not sure why - they are awful! Very small to the point of near absurdity, and the adhesive that comes on them doesn't work at all. Also, I am planning on creating a custom shroud to cover the area around the fan of the G10, as it looks so odd as uncovered PCB.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> Update on my progress: Didn't need any of the extra stuff like screws and whatnot people claimed. The ASUS 980 Ti STRIX did _not_ have VRM cooling that you could use, as it is part of the heatsink the fan shroud is attached to.
> 
> At this point I have found a somewhat bittersweet compromise, as it turns out that powering the GPU pump via the CPU_OPT header doesn't provide enough power at 100% for some reason or another on my Z170X Gaming 5, resulting in a horrid sound that comes from the pump when operated. I still hear a soft hum-like sound that is noticeable if you listen for it, but nothing horrendous compared to that *_click_, _click_, _click_*.I ordered a Noctua NF-A9 from Amazon for ~$20 and used the included Molex->PWM power adapter to just give both Kraken x61s full power at all times. I then put the fans for the CPU rad on the CPU and CPU_OPT headers, and the fans for the GPU rad on the SysFan2 and SysFan3 headers so that I can control them software-side.
> 
> This leads to a problem, however, as I have no fan spots available for the large fan at the front of my case (which would be an ideal exhaust solution since it would pull the heat away from my components and the rads all in on fell swoop, giving a natural component->rad->air transfer with no cross-flow) and I also don't have space for any of the 140mm fans elsewhere. I expected my temps to climb over time due to the current setup I have (no strong horizontal airflow, rads on top of case), but I found that Fallout 4 maxed out at 1440p + 90FPS + 90hz over the course of two hours in constant "Godrays" exposure led to a highest temp of 34°C, with my idle after cooling off averaging in the 18°C-22°C range. I unfortunately have no way to measure the temperatures of the VRMs, which is giving me a bit of anxiety, but I know it should be fine since I solidly attached thermal pads to the VRAM, VRMs, and am using the STRIX backplate.
> 
> Since I have to redo my cable management that I undid after hours of meticulous work, I am going to also install a VGA->PWM adapter so that I can put the VRM fan to always 100% and can control the GPU rad fans in Afterburner. I will also attempt to convert my potato into a camera (erm, I mean... phone) to takes pictures of everything if I can.
> 
> *Side Note:* I purchased these and I'm not sure why - they are awful! Very small to the point of near absurdity, and the adhesive that comes on them doesn't work at all. Also, I am planning on creating a custom shroud to cover the area around the fan of the G10, as it looks so odd as uncovered PCB.


Hmm did you try setting the "fan curve" for CPU_OPT to 100% and DC mode in your BIOS? That is what I did and it keeps my Kraken pump nice and quiet.


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Hmm did you try setting the "fan curve" for CPU_OPT to 100% and DC mode in your BIOS? That is what I did and it keeps my Kraken pump nice and quiet.


I did indeed, but it didn't get the job done.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> I did indeed, but it didn't get the job done.


Hmm that is odd...well the molex is a good way to go too so you should be good then.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> I did indeed, but it didn't get the job done.


When I decided I wanted to do this mod on a SLI configuration, while already having an AIO on my CPU, I just went and bought a pair fan controllers.


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> *Side Note:* I purchased these and I'm not sure why - they are awful! Very small to the point of near absurdity, and the adhesive that comes on them doesn't work at all. Also, I am planning on creating a custom shroud to cover the area around the fan of the G10, as it looks so odd as uncovered PCB.


I have good experience with these, although if you see my build, I use an aftermarket thermal padd with double sided adhesive. I remove the adhesive on the heatsinks and wiped them off with 91% alcohol befote putting them on.


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> I have good experience with these, although if you see my build, I use an aftermarket thermal padd with double sided adhesive. I remove the adhesive on the heatsinks and wiped them off with 91% alcohol befote putting them on.


I found that they were too small for the thermal pad to hold them in place. Hmm :/


----------



## MEC-777

You're better off running your AIO pumps off 12v molex adapters because you want them running at 100% all the time anyways and it keeps your motherboard fan headers free to use for all your fans. BTW you can double/triple up your rad fans on one fan header. I'm running 2 SP120's plus a Rosewill slim 120 fan all on one header just fine. Still well within it's max amperage rating. Plus I have custom fan curves setup for my GPU rads to not exceed 70% no matter what.

@williamdabastrd
34*C after gaming for a while is ridiculous. Can't complain about that. Running Fallout 4 at 1440p on ultra at 60fps+ on one of my R9 290's with the G10 and H55 and modest OC of 1060/1350 sees temps up around 60*C. You must have very low ambient temps where you game.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> You're better off running your AIO pumps off 12v molex adapters because you want them running at 100% all the time anyways and it keeps your motherboard fan headers free to use for all your fans. BTW you can double/triple up your rad fans on one fan header. I'm running 2 SP120's plus a Rosewill slim 120 fan all on one header just fine. Still well within it's max amperage rating. Plus I have custom fan curves setup for my GPU rads to not exceed 70% no matter what.
> 
> @williamdabastrd
> 34*C after gaming for a while is ridiculous. Can't complain about that. Running Fallout 4 at 1440p on ultra at 60fps+ on one of my R9 290's with the G10 and H55 and modest OC of 1060/1350 sees temps up around 60*C. You must have very low ambient temps where you game.


I could buy this and run both my Kraken X61 and X41 pumps off of the single molex right? : http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-Triple-Adapter/dp/B004J3P658/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1448467423&sr=1-8&keywords=3+pin+to+molex+fan+adapter

The radiator fans I just run off the SATA chain provided...makes it easy


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> I could buy this and run both my Kraken X61 and X41 pumps off of the single molex right? : http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-Triple-Adapter/dp/B004J3P658/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1448467423&sr=1-8&keywords=3+pin+to+molex+fan+adapter
> 
> The radiator fans I just run off the SATA chain provided...makes it easy


I would recommend plugging the fans into the motherboard headers so you don't need CAM to change their speed, but if you don't mind that then that will absolutely work and is very similar to what I have done.

@MEC-777 - My ambient temps are between 10°C and 16°C this time of year, and can go lower or higher depending on how I set my thermostat.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> I would recommend plugging the fans into the motherboard headers so you don't need CAM to change their speed, but if you don't mind that then that will absolutely work and is very similar to what I have done.
> 
> @MEC-777 - My ambient temps are between 10°C and 16°C this time of year, and can go lower or higher depending on how I set my thermostat.


I absolutely hate using multiple software apps to control my fans and I would prefer to use CAM as I have a NZXT Grid for my case fans - so all my fans, radiator and case, are controlled by the CAM software. It works fantastic so there is really no need to plug them into the motherboard. Not to mention it looks a bit cleaner.


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> I absolutely hate using multiple software apps to control my fans and I would prefer to use CAM as I have a NZXT Grid for my case fans - so all my fans, radiator and case, are controlled by the CAM software. It works fantastic so there is really no need to plug them into the motherboard. Not to mention it looks a bit cleaner.


Oh, I just don't use _any_ software.


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> I found that they were too small for the thermal pad to hold them in place. Hmm :/


wait, did you put these on your vrm or your vram, because they are exactly the size of your vrm, but for vram you need bigger, different heatsinks


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> wait, did you put these on your vrm or your vram, because they are exactly the size of your vrm, but for vram you need bigger, different heatsinks


I put them on my VRMs, and larger heatsinks on my VRAM. They fell off my VRMs several times before I gave up. Perhaps I got a bad order of them and the adhesive just wasn't good for that batch?


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> Oh, I just don't use _any_ software.


I can understand that...I originally had an MSI motherboard which had absolutely horrible fan control on BIOS. Asus has great fan control in the BIOS (which I just got an ASUS VIII Hero last week), so now I could do no software. With the MSI that wasn't really an option.

Still really like CAM though and like the ability to control my case fans on GPU temps (which you can probably do in the ASUS BIOS...haven't checked).


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> I absolutely hate using multiple software apps to control my fans and I would prefer to use CAM as I have a NZXT Grid for my case fans - so all my fans, radiator and case, are controlled by the CAM software. It works fantastic so there is really no need to plug them into the motherboard. Not to mention it looks a bit cleaner.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*
> 
> Oh, I just don't use _any_ software.


There are plenty different ways to do fan control. Lot's of options out there.









I prefer to have all my fans run off the motherboard fan headers and have them all controlled individually using Speedfan software program. Once you learn how to use it, it's awesome and quite powerful/capable (and free







). I especially like having specific fans controlled by specific device temperatures only (GPU rad fans react to GPU temps only, etc.).


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> There are plenty different ways to do fan control. Lot's of options out there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer to have all my fans run off the motherboard fan headers and have them all controlled individually using Speedfan software program. Once you learn how to use it, it's awesome and quite powerful/capable (and free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I especially like having specific fans controlled by specific device temperatures only (GPU rad fans react to GPU temps only, etc.).


Yea my GPU rad fan is controlled by GPU temp through MSI AB. Case and CPU rad fans are on CAM software. I do like Speedfan, if I didn't have the NZXT Grid I would use Speedfan.


----------



## williamdabastrd

I tried uaing SpeedFan but unfortunately SpeedFan doesn't support my motherboard it appears :/


----------



## danny2146

Hey all, I am trying to control my rad fana using the header in the gpu, but I have a H75, which houses 2 fans. I already bought a vga to pwm connector so my question is can I somehow control both of my rad fans using the gpu header?


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> Hey all, I am trying to control my rad fana using the header in the gpu, but I have a H75, which houses 2 fans. I already bought a vga to pwm connector so my question is can I somehow control both of my rad fans using the gpu header?


Get a splitter


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Get a splitter


Will the gpu header burned out if i do that?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> Will the gpu header burned out if i do that?


You should be able to split the fan header to run 2 fans without issue. The H75s i bought recently came with one, yours did not? Anyway, burning up is not your worry, whether it has the power to push two fans is the question and you should be fine running two fans off the mainboard header or the GPU header. I would not do it with pumps as I have seen some one mentione previously in the thread but you should be fine splitting one header up for 2 or even 3 fans in some cases. Just keep track of the power the fans need and compare it to the power the header can provide. Simple as that.


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You should be able to split the fan header to run 2 fans without issue. The H75s i bought recently came with one, yours did not? Anyway, burning up is not your worry, whether it has the power to push two fans is the question and you should be fine running two fans off the mainboard header or the GPU header. I would not do it with pumps as I have seen some one mentione previously in the thread but you should be fine splitting one header up for 2 or even 3 fans in some cases. Just keep track of the power the fans need and compare it to the power the header can provide. Simple as that.


I'm using the splitter on my fan controller right now, while it works fine, i jyst want thr gpu to control the speed of thr fans rather than doibg it mysself manually everytime i play games (im lazy). Im just afraid that 2 120mm fans would be too much for the gpu header.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> I'm using the splitter on my fan controller right now, while it works fine, *I just want the gpu to control the speed of the fans* rather than doibg it mysself manually everytime i play games (im lazy). Im just afraid that 2 120mm fans would be too much for the gpu header.


You can do this with SpeedFan software using one of your motherboard headers. That's how I control my GPU rad fans. They ramp up based on a custom fan curve according to GPU temps, alone.


----------



## Nebulous

I have one being delivered tomorrow along with the Gelid 290 heatsink kit for my 290. I'll be pairing it up with a Corsair H80i GT.

Should've had the parts today, but of course it's a holiday so tomorrow will be the day. I'll be sure to post some pics


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danny2146*
> 
> I'm using the splitter on my fan controller right now, while it works fine, i jyst want thr gpu to control the speed of thr fans rather than doibg it mysself manually everytime i play games (im lazy). Im just afraid that 2 120mm fans would be too much for the gpu header.


Im honestly not sure what kind of power the gpu fan header is rated for. While i think you would be ok, I would dig around and find out what kind of power the gpu fan header can provide. An email to the vendor or some google mining should answer that. I dont have time at the moment to follow up on it. You may also want to consider a fan controller for your case. I really like having the fan controls at the tip of my finger. I get the best cooling vs noise ratio this way and can go max on cooling at the touch of a button as well for when I am running benchmarks. You can get some capable controllers for under 25$


----------



## Kold

Well, I'm sure this isn't much of a surprise, but I can confirm the NZXT G10 works just fine with the Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming. It will work with or without the back plate, but I chose to remove it since it offers no actual passive cooling and extends further out than the actual PCB.



I put little VRM heatsinks on the VRMs. I used the adhesive that comes on them as the reviews were glowing about how well they stay. 48 hours later, they have yet to fall off.


----------



## danny2146

I agree with Kold. Initially i was using the thermal, but that didn't last long, the heatsinks keep on falling. So I did the same thing that Kold did, I used my spare aluminum heatsinks and put that on the Vrm. I also stack the other side of the vrm with thermal pad so it keep reach the evga back plate for even better cooling. They have not fallen off so far, although I did use alcohol to wipe the vrm off before putting the heatsink on.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> It will work with or without the back plate, but I chose to remove it since it offers no actual passive cooling and extends further out than the actual PCB.


The backplate provides support of these heavier GPUs helping to prevent sagging of the pcb. It really should be left on. If you are not going to use it keep an eye on the GPU. If it starts to sag put it on. If the length is to long its easy enough to cut it down some.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The backplate provides support of these heavier GPUs helping to prevent sagging of the pcb. It really should be left on. If you are not going to use it keep an eye on the GPU. If it starts to sag put it on. If the length is to long its easy enough to cut it down some.


I don't see any drooping or sagging when I turn the case sideways. I'm satisfied.


----------



## MattyMatt

What size should the copper shim be? I got an evga 980 ti with midplate and backplate and looking to keep those two and the op hasn't been properly updated. http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32258371179.html
Too small a surface? Too thick?

What do I need to do to keep the backplate?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> What size should the copper shim be? I got an evga 980 ti with midplate and backplate and looking to keep those two and the op hasn't been properly updated. http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32258371179.html
> Too small a surface? Too thick?
> 
> What do I need to do to keep the backplate?


The chip itself is 25x25mm, and the midplate is just shy of 2mm thick. Allowing for the thickness of the chip, you'll want a shim that's at least 1.5mm thick.


----------



## hertz9753

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301693931889?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I bought 2 of those shims.


----------



## Nebulous

Welp, after waiting all week for the Kraken G10 bracket and the Gelid 290 VRM sink kit I finally got it this afternoon. I was soo excited I proceeded to operate on the 290.

After several hours of work hacking up my current case to be sure the H80i GT fit properly, I remove the morpheus heatsink from the 290. Clean it all up and proceeded to mount up the G10. Come the moment to pair it with the H80i GT and the dam thing doesn't fit









Doesn't matter what I did to try and make the H80i GT on the Kraken, it will not fit unless I modify the bracket









Seems the mounting hole on the G10 is about 1/8 smaller than the H80i's cooling head/pump assembly. On top of trying to make it fit, I bent the dam bracket all to hell









Brand new H80i GT, G10 bracket useless...back to the 'ol drawing board


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nebulous*
> 
> Welp, after waiting all week for the Kraken G10 bracket and the Gelid 290 VRM sink kit I finally got it this afternoon. I was soo excited I proceeded to operate on the 290.
> 
> After several hours of work hacking up my current case to be sure the H80i GT fit properly, I remove the morpheus heatsink from the 290. Clean it all up and proceeded to mount up the G10. Come the moment to pair it with the H80i GT and the dam thing doesn't fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't matter what I did to try and make the H80i GT on the Kraken, it will not fit unless I modify the bracket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems the mounting hole on the G10 is about 1/8 smaller than the H80i's cooling head/pump assembly. On top of trying to make it fit, I bent the dam bracket all to hell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brand new H80i GT, G10 bracket useless...back to the 'ol drawing board


The H80i isn't compatible with the G10... You need an AIO with a rounded mounting plate, like the H55, H90, etc.


----------



## Nebulous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> The H80i isn't compatible with the G10... You need an AIO with a rounded mounting plate, like the H55, H90, etc.


Yeah...figures. Thx







Maybe I can trade the H80i GT.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nebulous*
> 
> Yeah...figures. Thx


lol... sorry to be the barer of bad news









I'll admit I haven't been paying much attention to this thread the past couple of weeks aside from skimming the occasional post -- had you specifically asked about that AIO's compatibility?


----------



## Nebulous

In actuality, I did not. After researching and using google-fu, I figured they would work. I saw nothing about them not being compatible, unless I missed it or I overlooked it. Visually I looked at the cooling head assembly and others with the round Asetek cooling heads and assumed it would right out of the box.


----------



## Sorphius

Dang, that really stinks. Can you return the H80i? If you can take it back and swap it out for an H55, H90, X41, or anything else with the straight-up round Asetek cooler, you'll be golden.

Worst case I guess you'll have to ebay it...


----------



## hertz9753

NZXT has a website. That is where I would have started.


----------



## Nebulous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Dang, that really stinks. Can you return the H80i? If you can take it back and swap it out for an H55, H90, X41, or anything else with the straight-up round Asetek cooler, you'll be golden.
> 
> Worst case I guess you'll have to ebay it...


No can do. Purchased it from a member at another forum. He got it as an RMA replacement. I might just ebay both and be done. I'll purchase a new case, a full cover block and another rad and go that route instead of playing the guessing game. I'm too old for this crap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> NZXT has a website. That is where I would have started.


I did, and this is what came up in the compatibility search:

" UNKNOWN The Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler and NZXT G10 Video Card Cooler compatibility could not be evaluated."

Which doesn't tell me no it will not work, but also doesn't say it will work. Just a crap shoot.


----------



## Sorphius

Shame.









On the bright side, there are plenty of people out there looking for an AIO. You might check out /r/hardwareswap and see if you can unload it there. That way you can avoid the ebay fees at least.


----------



## Nebulous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Shame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the bright side, there are plenty of people out there looking for an AIO. You might check out /r/hardwareswap and see if you can unload it there. That way you can avoid the ebay fees at least.


Yeah, I might try that thx! It's brand new aside from me mounting one of the fans on it.

*Edit*

Looks like a nogo on that. Don't qualify


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nebulous*
> 
> No can do. Purchased it from a member at another forum. He got it as an RMA replacement. I might just ebay both and be done. I'll purchase a new case, a full cover block and another rad and go that route instead of playing the guessing game. I'm too old for this crap.
> I did, and this is what came up in the compatibility search:
> 
> " UNKNOWN The Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler and NZXT G10 Video Card Cooler compatibility could not be evaluated."
> 
> Which doesn't tell me no it will not work, but also doesn't say it will work. Just a crap shoot.


While this is a rather generic mod, it has never been a guessing game and it has used the ASETEK design from the start, Anyway, since you already have the H80, I believe that will work with the Corsair HG-10.


----------



## Nebulous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> While this is a rather generic mod, it has never been a guessing game and it has used the ASETEK design from the start, Anyway, since you already have the H80, I believe that will work with the Corsair HG-10.


Am I missing something? Because from the looks of it the H80i GT seems to have the ASETEK design. I'm well aware the generic mod has been using this design since it's been introduced. However it is NOT compatible with said *H80i GT*.

Unsure if I want to continue this route using the HG-10 from Corsair as I'm pretty disgusted at this point. I went back to air and tossed both the H80i GT and G10 bracket in my box of junk in the closet until I do my spring cleaning and toss all my useless crap I've accumilated.


----------



## MattyMatt

What size should the copper shim be? I got a evga 980 with midplate and backplate and loiking to keep those two and the op hasn't been properly updated. 0.8mm?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/301693931889?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> I bought 2 of those shims.


They're out of stock. This is the closest I've found so far: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5x-25mm-25mm-1-2mm-Copper-shim-Thermal-pads-for-Dell-XPS-M1330-GPU-VGA/1826327293.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_8

EDIT: Found some 1.5mm thick.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-25mmX25mmX1-5mm-Thermal-Pad-High-Conductivity-Heatsink-Compound-Pad-/180905731455?hash=item2a1ed2657f:m:m-W_ub4rsAC1QGYEd19Pqbw
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-Laptop-GPU-CPU-Heatsink-Copper-Shim-25mmx25mmx1-5mm/32258800187.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_8

Is @MaCk-AtTaCk still around? Maybe the OP could be updated to include more details on these items so they are easier to find in the future. Or maybe a mod could edit.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nebulous*
> 
> Am I missing something? Because from the looks of it the H80i GT seems to have the ASETEK design. I'm well aware the generic mod has been using this design since it's been introduced. However it is NOT compatible with said *H80i GT*.
> 
> Unsure if I want to continue this route using the HG-10 from Corsair as I'm pretty disgusted at this point. I went back to air and tossed both the H80i GT and G10 bracket in my box of junk in the closet until I do my spring cleaning and toss all my useless crap I've accumilated.


Unless they have made a special version of the H80i, its not ASETEK. The ASETEK has the teeth like in this image.......  From the image on Corsairs page it appears to be the same used for some time on the H60, H80 and H100 105 lines which is not the ASETEK design. Sorry youve had such a bad experience with it but that pump design has never been compatible with the NZXT G10. It is compatible with Corsairs HG10. Did you get confused because Corsairs bracket name is so similar to the G10s name? You may have fallen victim to Corsairs obvious marketing strategy on this product. They knew well they would create issues naming it so close to the NZXT products name. But I imagine it does get them some extra business.


----------



## DR4G00N

ame. But I imagine it does get them some extra business.[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Unless they have made a special version of the H80i, its not ASETEK. The ASETEK has the teeth like in this image.......  From the image on Corsairs page it appears to be the same used for some time on the H60, H80 and H100 105 lines which is not the ASETEK design. Sorry youve had such a bad experience with it but that pump design has never been compatible with the NZXT G10. It is compatible with Corsairs HG10. Did you get confused because Corsairs bracket name is so similar to the G10s name? You may have fallen victim to Corsairs obvious marketing strategy on this product. They knew well they would create issues naming it so close to the NZXT products name. But I imagine it does get them some extra business.


The H80I GT is made by Asetek and it's the round block style but it's a newer variation which is too big to fit the G10.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> The H80I GT is made by Asetek and it's the round block style but it's a newer variation which is too big to fit the G10.


Got ya. I couldnt find a good picture of the H80i GT cold plate or pump assembly. I automatically think round with teeth when i hear ASETEK because of the patent lawsuits. The older version H80i I had,had the square cold plate and no teeth, did not realize the GT version had made a change like that. I will have to dig up a picture when i get some time and take a better look.


----------



## Nebulous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> The H80I GT is made by Asetek and it's the round block style but it's a newer variation which is too big to fit the G10.


I concur. It's slightly larger by say 1/8 of an inch or so, but the same design. I didn't think it was larger until I had physically in my hand and then tried to pair it with the G10.

Looks the same tho aside from the top.

h80i_07.png 387k .png file


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nebulous*
> 
> I concur. It's slightly larger by say 1/8 of an inch or so, but the same design. I didn't think it was larger until I had physically in my hand and then tried to pair it with the G10.
> 
> Looks the same tho aside from the top.
> 
> h80i_07.png 387k .png file


Thanks for the pic, it does look the same without any thing next to it for scale.


----------



## Nebulous

Agreed. Well decided to submit a return back to newegg for the G10. Going to give the Corsair HG-10 a shot for shiz and gigs. I remounted the Raijintek morpheus sink without the ramsinks, but left the VRM sinks on. Retimming with fresh MX4 dropped my temps considerably. Now undecided if I want to swap to the H80i GT and the HG-10


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nebulous*
> 
> Agreed. Well decided to submit a return back to newegg for the G10. Going to give the Corsair HG-10 a shot for shiz and gigs. I remounted the Raijintek morpheus sink without the ramsinks, but left the VRM sinks on. Retimming with fresh MX4 dropped my temps considerably. Now undecided if I want to swap to the H80i GT and the HG-10


What temps are you getting with the morpheus? The HG-10 & H80i GT will put you around 45-55c load temps depending on the fans used.


----------



## Nebulous

Just stressed using MSI Kombuster @ 1050/1250 stock voltages

GpuZ_Load.gif 22k .gif file


----------



## a5thshinobi

Hey Guys,

I need some help, I'm trying to figure out if I installed my Kraken G10 correctly or if I messed up somewhere. I bought everything I needed, went with a Corsair H90. Got a Noctua A14 fan but didn't realize the highest rpm it goes is 800. My video card is a MSI GeForce GTX 980Ti 6GD5T OC .

I'm running Heaven right now and it's topping out at 72c. Is it a good temp? I never ran Heaven on air cool so I don't really know if it is acceptable or not. When I was playing fallout 4 my temps were hitting 82c, so I've figured it isn't so bad. But i'm seeing people are saying they get 55c or so. Did I mess up somewhere? I'm getting another fan to help with the cooling but I don't think it would help it drop that much. What should I try to remedy this high temp?


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a5thshinobi*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I need some help, I'm trying to figure out if I installed my Kraken G10 correctly or if I messed up somewhere. I bought everything I needed, went with a Corsair H90. Got a Noctua A14 fan but didn't realize the highest rpm it goes is 800. My video card is a MSI GeForce GTX 980Ti 6GD5T OC .
> 
> I'm running Heaven right now and it's topping out at 72c. Is it a good temp? I never ran Heaven on air cool so I don't really know if it is acceptable or not. When I was playing fallout 4 my temps were hitting 82c, so I've figured it isn't so bad. But i'm seeing people are saying they get 55c or so. Did I mess up somewhere? I'm getting another fan to help with the cooling but I don't think it would help it drop that much. What should I try to remedy this high temp?


That is horrible temp, that noctua fan is good but I suggest you return it and get something with higher rpm. Regarding your temp, it must has something to do with the contact between the pump and the gpu. Maybe you got you thermal paste unevenly? Or maybe the screws werent tighten down enough, but dont screw them down too hard, check for any bend, warp in yhe pcb before proceed any further.
Also your temp should be around 42-47 degree


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a5thshinobi*
> 
> Got a Noctua A14 fan but didn't realize the highest rpm it goes is 800...it's topping out at 72c...fallout 4 my temps were hitting 82c, so I've figured it isn't so bad


That's pretty high... not dangerously so (reference card runs around 80-85), but definitely a lot higher than you should be with a properly-installed G10/H90. I'm not sure why your fan tops out at 800. It should be able to run up around 1750 IIRC... I use one of these and control it using Speedfan. Before you go and re-seat the cooler, try the stock H90 fan. It's loud as a vacuum cleaner, but moves some serious air. If that brings you down into the low-mid 50s, you'll know its your low-rpm fan. If it doesn't make a huge difference, try re-seating the cooler.


----------



## RaduZ

Usualy people don't tighten the screws enough or evenly. I tighten them just enough so I can see a tiny bend in the PCB.


----------



## a5thshinobi

So I reseated it and put in the corsair fan and running it at 100%. It looks like it's helping a lot. I'm returning the Noctua fan which I'm assuming will help me get a lower temp.

I'm not entirely sure what happened but I guess when I was trying to seat the cooler, the paste must had moved around.


----------



## danny2146

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a5thshinobi*
> 
> So I reseated it and put in the corsair fan and running it at 100%. It looks like it's helping a lot. I'm returning the Noctua fan which I'm assuming will help me get a lower temp.
> 
> I'm not entirely sure what happened but I guess when I was trying to seat the cooler, the paste must had moved around.


What's your temp now?


----------



## a5thshinobi

Hovering around 59-61c. Is this a good temp? The core is running at 1105. I think it boosts to 1190 or so.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a5thshinobi*
> 
> Hovering around 59-61c. Is this a good temp? The core is running at 1105. I think it boosts to 1190 or so.


Thats not a bad temp but you should see a bit lower temps still. Do you have the fans on the radiator moving air into the system or exhausting out of the system? Try it both ways and see which gives you the best temps.


----------



## Nebulous

Decided to return the G10 and sell the H80i GT. Going for the full cover block and a new case.


----------



## a5thshinobi

The H90 radiator is in the front, moving air into the case. I know this isn't preferable but I don't have much room. I wanted to seat the H90 radiator in the back of the case, but I also installed a EK Predator 360 and it didn't leave a lot of room in the back of the case. I could only put a 140mm fan in the back but not the radiator and the fan.

I'm thinking about switching it around and maybe do Predator in the front, gpu radiator in the back and then the extra fans to the top. What do you guys think?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a5thshinobi*
> 
> The H90 radiator is in the front, moving air into the case. I know this isn't preferable but I don't have much room. I wanted to seat the H90 radiator in the back of the case, but I also installed a EK Predator 360 and it didn't leave a lot of room in the back of the case. I could only put a 140mm fan in the back but not the radiator and the fan.
> 
> I'm thinking about switching it around and maybe do Predator in the front, gpu radiator in the back and then the extra fans to the top. What do you guys think?


~60C is really a perfectly acceptable temp unless your really trying to push an overclock.


----------



## a5thshinobi

Aren't we all trying to chase overclocks?

On a serious note, yeah 60c seems fine with me but I am getting jealous of other people getting 50's when they overclock their 980ti to 1500 or so. I figured I could get the same some how.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a5thshinobi*
> 
> Aren't we all trying to chase overclocks?
> 
> On a serious note, yeah 60c seems fine with me but I am getting jealous of other people getting 50's when they overclock their 980ti to 1500 or so. I figured I could get the same some how.










Of course. My point is simply that its probably not worth restructuring your whole air circuit at the moment. You will only gain a few FPS. Maybe next time you buy a new case?


----------



## DrRazorNipples

Hello, first time builder. I was wondering if I would have any issues with the G10 bracket on an R9 290 in a Phanteks EVOLV itx case. I'm specifically concerned about the vertical clearance between the fan and the bottom of the case. Do I need to change the fan to a 92 X 15mm fan? I'm planning on using either an h55 or a kraken x31 if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ZWingerRyRy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrRazorNipples*
> 
> Hello, first time builder. I was wondering if I would have any issues with the G10 bracket on an R9 290 in a Phanteks EVOLV itx case. I'm specifically concerned about the vertical clearance between the fan and the bottom of the case. Do I need to change the fan to a 92 X 15mm fan? I'm planning on using either an h55 or a kraken x31 if that makes a difference.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


The G10 attached makes the card no bigger then a 2 slot cooler. The fan that comes with to cool the vrms is perfectly adequate. Also if your 290 doesn't come with dedicated vrm cooling after the removal of stock cooler Id recommend some heatsinks on them.


----------



## Zellgadus

Hello everyone, I'm part of the club now!

I finally installed my two G10 Krakens and two Corsair H55 Hydro in my corsair 500R Case. They were for my MSI R9 280x that are in crossfire. I couldn't be happier about my temps. In Idle the temps are anything between 22 degrees Celsius to 25 degrees celsius. The real kicker is at max load they are 48 degrees celsius TOP. As for VRM and Vram temperatures, I used benzotech heatsinks (where it was possible, I'll explain further down the post.) and so far under full load I haven't seen them go higher than 58 degrees celsius which surprisingly is lower than what it was before since at max load they were around 68 degrees

I'm posting to give out a bit of info that I wasn't able to find prior to the build itself. First if you own an MSI R9 280X, you don't need a shim. the GPU isn't retracted so you'll have no issue getting good contact with your AIO cooling heatsink. Also very important to keep the black backplate from MSI. It acts as a passive cooling heatsink solution for your VRM and VRAM.

At first I wanted to put the heatsinks all around the backplate where the vrm modules were. However the benzotech BMR-C1 and Benzotech MOS-C10 were too tall and were making contact with the kraken g10 frame. So I had to put them where it was possible. However if you do want to put heatsinks to lower your temperature even more I recommend getting shorter heatsinks. the benzotech were 14mm tall I sugget not getting anything that has a height higher than 9mm so you have some nice spacing between the G10 frame and the heatsinks.

I am very happy with the build overall. I have great temperatures. Oh I forgot to mention I used IC Diamond thermal paste for both GPUS. The real kicker is playing Star wars Battlefront and seeing your crossfire configuration never going over 48 degrees celsius.

One thing I disliked, the kraken g10 has a 3 pin fan thus not pwm. Basically, I couldn't plug it to the 4 pin connector on the GPU. However I kind of expected it so I had already bought a BitFenix fan adapter cable. Overall not that big of a deal but still it adds more cable and made cable management a little more annoying. I haven't taken pictures yet but if anyone wants me to I will.

I'll put a few links to what I used for the build. Keep in mind I'm from Canada and got this from newegg.ca but you can find the same thing on their American website.

Enzotech BMR-C1

Enzotech MOS-C10

Bitfenix fan adapter

I figure I don't need to link the H55 nor the Kraken G10.

Good luck to all future owners!


----------



## selbyftw

Hey ya'll I've installed my g10 to my msi 980ti today.

Used a kraken x41. Good news my temps are fantastic. 26 idle and about 51 at the very very max under full load. Much better than expected.

Only problem is that my pump is really loud.

The cable wouldn't reach my CPU fan header so I had to use system fan header, not sure this is a problem, I did go into the bios and change that system fan header to 100% at all times which helped the matter but it's still loud.

Other problem is I didn't have another usb internal header so i just left the USB part unplugged (as far as I'm aware this is only useful for the software)

Do you think it's worth me buying a 3pin extension and running it into the cpu fan header and maybe an external usb expander? Do you think this could make it run quiet?

Either the pumps are just louder than I'm used to (h100i gtx is near silent pump) or there is something wrong with the pump, I don't think the fan near it is making noise because I've unplugged it and I can still hear the noise coming from the pump itself?

Might have to rma the kraken x41 and go for the h90 otherwise. Any suggestions please? Thanks


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selbyftw*
> 
> Hey ya'll I've installed my g10 to my msi 980ti today.
> 
> Used a kraken x41. Good news my temps are fantastic. 26 idle and about 51 at the very very max under full load. Much better than expected.
> 
> Only problem is that my pump is really loud.
> 
> The cable wouldn't reach my CPU fan header so I had to use system fan header, not sure this is a problem, I did go into the bios and change that system fan header to 100% at all times which helped the matter but it's still loud.
> 
> Other problem is I didn't have another usb internal header so i just left the USB part unplugged (as far as I'm aware this is only useful for the software)
> 
> Do you think it's worth me buying a 3pin extension and running it into the cpu fan header and maybe an external usb expander? Do you think this could make it run quiet?
> 
> Either the pumps are just louder than I'm used to (h100i gtx is near silent pump) or there is something wrong with the pump, I don't think the fan near it is making noise because I've unplugged it and I can still hear the noise coming from the pump itself?
> 
> Might have to rma the kraken x41 and go for the h90 otherwise. Any suggestions please? Thanks


With those temps its obvious the pump is getting plenty of power. Your fine there. As for the noise, thats up to you whether you can live with that or not. Ive never run that CLC/AIO so im not familiar with it but theres nothing you can do about the noise except to lower the speed on the pump which you do not want to do. So if it is indeed unbearable for you you can RMA and see if it was just a bad pump or RMA and get something else.


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selbyftw*
> 
> Hey ya'll I've installed my g10 to my msi 980ti today.
> 
> Used a kraken x41. Good news my temps are fantastic. 26 idle and about 51 at the very very max under full load. Much better than expected.
> 
> Only problem is that my pump is really loud.
> 
> The cable wouldn't reach my CPU fan header so I had to use system fan header, not sure this is a problem, I did go into the bios and change that system fan header to 100% at all times which helped the matter but it's still loud.
> 
> Other problem is I didn't have another usb internal header so i just left the USB part unplugged (as far as I'm aware this is only useful for the software)
> 
> Do you think it's worth me buying a 3pin extension and running it into the cpu fan header and maybe an external usb expander? Do you think this could make it run quiet?
> 
> Either the pumps are just louder than I'm used to (h100i gtx is near silent pump) or there is something wrong with the pump, I don't think the fan near it is making noise because I've unplugged it and I can still hear the noise coming from the pump itself?
> 
> Might have to rma the kraken x41 and go for the h90 otherwise. Any suggestions please? Thanks


I'd return it and hope for better luck. I have 2 x41's and none have any pump noise i can hear at their max setting, nevermind silent. I can hear my fractal design's s36 pump on the cpu making a buzzing noise at it's top speed and coil noise from one gpu. Kraken's are silent.


----------



## selbyftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> With those temps its obvious the pump is getting plenty of power. Your fine there. As for the noise, thats up to you whether you can live with that or not. Ive never run that CLC/AIO so im not familiar with it but theres nothing you can do about the noise except to lower the speed on the pump which you do not want to do. So if it is indeed unbearable for you you can RMA and see if it was just a bad pump or RMA and get something else.


Thanks for your reply, I've RMA'd the pump, I'm going to give the H90 a try instead of the kraken. The noise was horrible


----------



## selbyftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> I'd return it and hope for better luck. I have 2 x41's and none have any pump noise i can hear at their max setting, nevermind silent. I can hear my fractal design's s36 pump on the cpu making a buzzing noise at it's top speed and coil noise from one gpu. Kraken's are silent.


Nice to hear from someone with the same pump, think there was a problem with mine then as mine were no where near silent, I've ordered a h90 instead will fit tomorrow.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zellgadus*
> 
> Hello everyone, I'm part of the club now!
> 
> I finally installed my two G10 Krakens and two Corsair H55 Hydro in my corsair 500R Case. They were for my MSI R9 280x that are in crossfire. I couldn't be happier about my temps. In Idle the temps are anything between 22 degrees Celsius to 25 degrees celsius. The real kicker is at max load they are 48 degrees celsius TOP. As for VRM and Vram temperatures, I used benzotech heatsinks (where it was possible, I'll explain further down the post.) and so far under full load I haven't seen them go higher than 58 degrees celsius which surprisingly is lower than what it was before since at max load they were around 68 degrees
> 
> I'm posting to give out a bit of info that I wasn't able to find prior to the build itself. First if you own an MSI R9 280X, you don't need a shim. the GPU isn't retracted so you'll have no issue getting good contact with your AIO cooling heatsink. Also very important to keep the black backplate from MSI. It acts as a passive cooling heatsink solution for your VRM and VRAM.
> 
> At first I wanted to put the heatsinks all around the backplate where the vrm modules were. However the benzotech BMR-C1 and Benzotech MOS-C10 were too tall and were making contact with the kraken g10 frame. So I had to put them where it was possible. However if you do want to put heatsinks to lower your temperature even more I recommend getting shorter heatsinks. the benzotech were 14mm tall I sugget not getting anything that has a height higher than 9mm so you have some nice spacing between the G10 frame and the heatsinks.
> 
> I am very happy with the build overall. I have great temperatures. Oh I forgot to mention I used IC Diamond thermal paste for both GPUS. The real kicker is playing Star wars Battlefront and seeing your crossfire configuration never going over 48 degrees celsius.
> 
> One thing I disliked, the kraken g10 has a 3 pin fan thus not pwm. Basically, I couldn't plug it to the 4 pin connector on the GPU. However I kind of expected it so I had already bought a BitFenix fan adapter cable. Overall not that big of a deal but still it adds more cable and made cable management a little more annoying. I haven't taken pictures yet but if anyone wants me to I will.
> 
> I'll put a few links to what I used for the build. Keep in mind I'm from Canada and got this from newegg.ca but you can find the same thing on their American website.
> 
> Enzotech BMR-C1
> 
> Enzotech MOS-C10
> 
> Bitfenix fan adapter
> 
> I figure I don't need to link the H55 nor the Kraken G10.
> 
> Good luck to all future owners!


any pics of your rig? gotta show off that hardware !
welcome to the club!
+1 rep


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zellgadus*
> 
> Hello everyone, I'm part of the club now!
> 
> I finally installed my two G10 Krakens and two Corsair H55 Hydro in my corsair 500R Case. They were for my MSI R9 280x that are in crossfire. I couldn't be happier about my temps. In Idle the temps are anything between 22 degrees Celsius to 25 degrees celsius. The real kicker is at max load they are 48 degrees celsius TOP. As for VRM and Vram temperatures, I used benzotech heatsinks (where it was possible, I'll explain further down the post.) and so far under full load I haven't seen them go higher than 58 degrees celsius which surprisingly is lower than what it was before since at max load they were around 68 degrees
> 
> I'm posting to give out a bit of info that I wasn't able to find prior to the build itself. First if you own an MSI R9 280X, you don't need a shim. the GPU isn't retracted so you'll have no issue getting good contact with your AIO cooling heatsink. Also very important to keep the black backplate from MSI. It acts as a passive cooling heatsink solution for your VRM and VRAM.
> 
> At first I wanted to put the heatsinks all around the backplate where the vrm modules were. However the benzotech BMR-C1 and Benzotech MOS-C10 were too tall and were making contact with the kraken g10 frame. So I had to put them where it was possible. However if you do want to put heatsinks to lower your temperature even more I recommend getting shorter heatsinks. the benzotech were 14mm tall I sugget not getting anything that has a height higher than 9mm so you have some nice spacing between the G10 frame and the heatsinks.
> 
> I am very happy with the build overall. I have great temperatures. Oh I forgot to mention I used IC Diamond thermal paste for both GPUS. The real kicker is playing Star wars Battlefront and seeing your crossfire configuration never going over 48 degrees celsius.
> 
> One thing I disliked, the kraken g10 has a 3 pin fan thus not pwm. Basically, I couldn't plug it to the 4 pin connector on the GPU. However I kind of expected it so I had already bought a BitFenix fan adapter cable. Overall not that big of a deal but still it adds more cable and made cable management a little more annoying. I haven't taken pictures yet but if anyone wants me to I will.
> 
> I'll put a few links to what I used for the build. Keep in mind I'm from Canada and got this from newegg.ca but you can find the same thing on their American website.
> 
> Enzotech BMR-C1
> 
> Enzotech MOS-C10
> 
> Bitfenix fan adapter
> 
> I figure I don't need to link the H55 nor the Kraken G10.
> 
> Good luck to all future owners!


How about some pics? Id like to see how roomy that 500r is compared to the 400r i run with 2 gpu/g-10s.


----------



## MattyMatt

Is there any software that lets me read VRM and VRAM temps? I'm expecting my shim soon. I just want to see what temps are with the mid-plate to see if I still need the heatsinks or not.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Is there any software that lets me read VRM and VRAM temps? I'm expecting my shim soon. I just want to see what temps are with the mid-plate to see if I still need the heatsinks or not.


Only if your card has temperature sensors for them, which most don't. Otherwise you'll need to gerry-rig a sensor with individual probes and feed the data into something like an Aquaero or Speedfan.


----------



## hertz9753

All they do is show GPU Core Temp.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Only if your card has temperature sensors for them, which most don't. Otherwise you'll need to gerry-rig a sensor with individual probes and feed the data into something like an Aquaero or Speedfan.


Too bad. Guess I'll attach the heatsinks. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## selbyftw

Well I changed my kraken x41 out for a H90 today and also got rid of the fan on the g10 and put a noctuna fan there instead.

I still have the pump rattle. Very strange how both pumps are doing this I think it may be something to do with power, I have tried both the plugs in the cpu fan headers and system fan header but still the same noises. As a last resort I've ordered a 12v molex to 3 pin adapter and I'm going to run the pump straight from the psu to make sure it is 100% getting enough power.

If that doesn't do it then it's either a case of live with the noise or go back to stock cooler. It's a shame really as my temps are fantastic.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selbyftw*
> 
> Well I changed my kraken x41 out for a H90 today and also got rid of the fan on the g10 and put a noctuna fan there instead.
> 
> I still have the pump rattle. Very strange how both pumps are doing this I think it may be something to do with power, I have tried both the plugs in the cpu fan headers and system fan header but still the same noises. As a last resort I've ordered a 12v molex to 3 pin adapter and I'm going to run the pump straight from the psu to make sure it is 100% getting enough power.
> 
> If that doesn't do it then it's either a case of live with the noise or go back to stock cooler. It's a shame really as my temps are fantastic.


Have you had water loops before? They can sometimes make some racket until all the bubbles are worked out. Maybe thats it. I can speak for the H90s as I have a pair and have installed a dozen or so. Never a rattling problem.


----------



## selbyftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Have you had water loops before? They can sometimes make some racket until all the bubbles are worked out. Maybe thats it. I can speak for the H90s as I have a pair and have installed a dozen or so. Never a rattling problem.


Well I have a h100i gtx cooling my CPU and that is very very quiet, the pump itself anyway, the fans make noise but the pumps have attached to my g10 both so far have made a rattling noise coming from the pump head itself. I've tested this by unplugging all the other system fans and just having the pumps powered on.

Like I said It could be an issue with the power so I'll run it off the psu directly tomorrow and maybe (but doubt it) it will fix it.

If not I have to return like 2 pumps, 2 fans, a molex adaptor, a 3 pin extension and a gelid fan adaptor all back to amazon, don't think they will be too happy with me!


----------



## Zellgadus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> any pics of your rig? gotta show off that hardware !
> welcome to the club!
> +1 rep


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> How about some pics? Id like to see how roomy that 500r is compared to the 400r i run with 2 gpu/g-10s.


Sorry for the late reply!

So I went ahead and fixed a few things. Mainly the positioning of the first GPU radiator on the side panel. Also properly anchored the second GPU radiator with some sound dampening cloth covered with electric tape. The second radiator is properly in place now and it it doesn't move.

Still getting around the same temperatures as before. Around 22 to 27 at idle and up to a maximum of 50 degrees at max load. I apologize for the crappy quality of my pictures but I took this with an old Iphone4 and I apologize for the glare. This case is a Corsair 500r, the CPU pump is a Corsair H100 and the GPU's are two MSI's R9 280X with the Corsair H55 used on both GPU's. Anyways I hope this helps people get an idea on the space required and so on.

The pictures are in the spoiler tab.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ultisym

Curious as to why you didnt just go ahead and mount both of the H-55 radiators to the side panel. You would have to move the one already mounted up some, but after that it looks like you woould have clearance. Just wondering why you didnt do that vs rigging it up on top of the drives..


----------



## MEC-777

Should also have both rads set as exhaust, not intake. They will be pumping a lot of heat inside the case. One of the main reasons for going with water cooled GPUs is to more effectively remove the heat from your system/case.


----------



## Zellgadus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Curious as to why you didnt just go ahead and mount both of the H-55 radiators to the side panel. You would have to move the one already mounted up some, but after that it looks like you woould have clearance. Just wondering why you didnt do that vs rigging it up on top of the drives..


I did want to install both rads on the side panel the first time. However the mounting points just didn't allow me to do that. The second mounting points cause an issue with the power supply. So that was an issue during the build. So, unless I mod the side panel and make some ghetto mounting points, this is the way I set it up for now. However, I'm not against trying to mod it. If any of you have a link to somewhere I can learn how; it would be great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Should also have both rads set as exhaust, not intake. They will be pumping a lot of heat inside the case. One of the main reasons for going with water cooled GPUs is to more effectively remove the heat from your system/case.


I did consider that, however, the air outside of the case is colder and I am trying to keep the fins on the radiator cool. Thus I considered that having them as an intake would be better overall for cooling the gpus effectively. As for the hot air inside the case. I've been monitoring it and it hasn't really been an issue so far. The airflow inside the case is probably optimal at this point and the exhaust fan is doing it's job properly. Since I do not have any issues with my temperatures whether it's the Gpu, vrm or vrams I'll keep the setup as is. I might try it differently in the future though to see if it does make a difference. It really would only take a few seconds to actually change the configuration so I'll definitely try it out.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zellgadus*
> 
> I did want to install both rads on the side panel the first time. However the mounting points just didn't allow me to do that. The second mounting points cause an issue with the power supply. So that was an issue during the build. So, unless I mod the side panel and make some ghetto mounting points, this is the way I set it up for now. However, I'm not against trying to mod it. If any of you have a link to somewhere I can learn how; it would be great.
> I did consider that, however, the air outside of the case is colder and I am trying to keep the fins on the radiator cool. Thus I considered that having them as an intake would be better overall for cooling the gpus effectively. As for the hot air inside the case. I've been monitoring it and it hasn't really been an issue so far. The airflow inside the case is probably optimal at this point and the exhaust fan is doing it's job properly. Since I do not have any issues with my temperatures whether it's the Gpu, vrm or vrams I'll keep the setup as is. I might try it differently in the future though to see if it does make a difference. It really would only take a few seconds to actually change the configuration so I'll definitely try it out.


On the first point consider mounting the fans on the outside of the panel attaching to the radiator through the panel. It doesnt have to be ghetto looking, i Bought nice fans and grills and did a good job setting it up and it looks nice and works beautifully. It gives you the room to clear the PSU.

The instructions that come with the cooler usually suggests placing the fans on intake but they are considering the cpu installation. You should definitely try it with the gpu radiator fans on intakes as well as exhaust and see what your numbers look like. I would be interested in seeing the difference as the heat saturation has to be pretty significant.. I wouldnt want heat dumped into my case for sure and indeed my temps were much higher with the fans on intake. But if air circuit really is that good, it might work for you.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zellgadus*
> 
> I did consider that, however, the air outside of the case is colder and I am trying to keep the fins on the radiator cool. Thus I considered that having them as an intake would be better overall for cooling the gpus effectively. As for the hot air inside the case. I've been monitoring it and it hasn't really been an issue so far. The airflow inside the case is probably optimal at this point and the exhaust fan is doing it's job properly. Since I do not have any issues with my temperatures whether it's the Gpu, vrm or vrams I'll keep the setup as is. I might try it differently in the future though to see if it does make a difference. It really would only take a few seconds to actually change the configuration so I'll definitely try it out.


If you have both GPU rads as exhausts, your GPU temps are not going to suffer much at all. The components producing the most heat in your system are the GPUs and with the rads relocated where that heat transfer is taking place, your interior case temps will drop drastically with the rads as exhaust. Yes the air outside your case may still be colder, but with both GPU rads as exhaust, the air inside your case won't get THAT much warmer. With adequate air flow and intake, you should be able to keep interior air temps very close to ambient.

Think about it this way: Is it better to pump that hot air in, potentially warming up everything inside, just to achieve slightly (few degrees) cooler GPU core temps? Or would it be better to kick as much of the hot air outside, keeping all components inside at a cooler temp and run a few degrees warmer on the GPU cores?

I've experimented running it both ways when I had crossfire 290's in my system - both with H55's. I had sufficient exhaust, but even with one of the GPU rads as intake it still warmed up the entire case and everything inside FAR more than it was worth getting 3 or so degrees cooler on that GPU core. Moved both GPU rads to exhaust and the whole case remained cool tot he touch and GPU core tamps were still just as cool (maybe 3 degrees or so warmer). It's just not worth the very minor gain to warm up everything else, IMO.

If you have a TON of exhaust fans (3 or so) and run them at 1000rpm or so, maaaaybe you'd be ok. I just believe it's better to kick all heat outside the case with the exception of a CPU rad which doesn't get anywhere near as hot as a GPU rad.

Like Ultisym said, try it both ways. Run the system under heavy load (gaming or whatever) for an hour or two and put your hand on the case on all sides to gauge how warm the system - as a whole - might be getting.


----------



## Zimzoid

Hi all just installed this on my Evga GTX 980ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ so far it's working great, was able to retain the backplate and midplate so no little heat sinks needed, I'm using a H55 cooler with corsair 2x sp120 pwm fans salvaged from a broken H80i I bought really cheap online.
Idle temps 26c,gaming load (bf4) 52c was 70c max with the ACX cooler, summer here in New Zealand so room temps in the low 20s.
Oh Yer also had to use 2x copper shims as I could only find 0.7mm thick ones seems to work fine though.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hi all just installed this on my Evga GTX 980ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ so far it's working great, was able to retain the backplate and midplate so no little heat sinks needed, I'm using a H55 cooler with corsair 2x sp120 pwm fans salvaged from a broken H80i I bought really cheap online.
> Idle temps 26c,gaming load (bf4) 52c was 70c max with the ACX cooler, summer here in New Zealand so room temps in the low 20s.
> Oh Yer also had to use 2x copper shims as I could only find 0.7mm thick ones seems to work fine though.


Sounds like your fine on the two shim issue. 52C is a good temp.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hi all just installed this on my Evga GTX 980ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ so far it's working great, was able to retain the backplate and midplate so no little heat sinks needed, I'm using a H55 cooler with corsair 2x sp120 pwm fans salvaged from a broken H80i I bought really cheap online.
> Idle temps 26c,gaming load (bf4) 52c was 70c max with the ACX cooler, summer here in New Zealand so room temps in the low 20s.
> Oh Yer also had to use 2x copper shims as I could only find 0.7mm thick ones seems to work fine though.


I have the same card with shim on the way. What did you need to do to retain the backplate? I feel like the screws won't be long enough. Did you forgo the NZXT plate?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> I have the same card with shim on the way. What did you need to do to retain the backplate? I feel like the screws won't be long enough. Did you forgo the NZXT plate?


If it has a back plate you can get away with out the nzxt plate. Just make sure the screws wont pull through the holes. Ive skipped the plate on all my installations where the gpu has a backplate.


----------



## Zimzoid

Hey MattyMatt, I just removed the thick pad on the nzxt plate and the screws provided worked fine.
The screw holes in the Evga back plate are to big you could use washers I guess so the screws don't pull through


----------



## zorvalth

Hey, did you see the new arctic coolers freezer 120 and freezer 240. They are very cheap here in europe 60/70 euro they are with the asetek design but a little different. Do you think they could fit g10? They got very thick radiators and 2/4 fans for push pull! I ordered one for my cpu but if they fit i will get one and kraken for my 980.

Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Hey, did you see the new arctic coolers freezer 120 and freezer 240. They are very cheap here in europe 60/70 euro they are with the asetek design but a little different. Do you think they could fit g10? They got very thick radiators and 2/4 fans for push pull! I ordered one for my cpu but if they fit i will get one and kraken for my 980.
> 
> Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk


Arctic makes units specifically for the GPU too.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Arctic makes units specifically for the GPU too.


do they make one for the gtx 970 with acx 2.0 or only reference


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zellgadus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I thought my raditor has bad place for cooling, I was wrong









*Zellgadus* you understand what your components gets a lot of heat from radiators ?!


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> do they make one for the gtx 970 with acx 2.0 or only reference


honestly don't know. It just has a square base to line up with the gpu mounts, that's all.


----------



## zorvalth

I dont like the way arctic is cooling the vrm and kraken+ freezer 120 looks better, has better radiator, better vrm cooling and its 20 euro cheaper.

Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> I dont like the way arctic is cooling the vrm and kraken+ freezer 120 looks better, has better radiator, better vrm cooling and its 20 euro cheaper.
> 
> Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk


Kraken has very little VRM cooling, you'll need heatsinks on them for sure.

Trust me. I tried it.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Kraken has very little VRM cooling, you'll need heatsinks on them for sure.
> 
> Trust me. I tried it.


The fan on the Kraken is actually plenty for the job, the problem comes in when the GPU vendors decide to place the VRM heatsink on their cooler design vs placing it on the PCB. You can not really point the finger at a particular vendor, I believe all of them do it both ways on their various offerings.Their may be advantages to doing it this way on certain designs, but to me, placing it in their cooler is the cheap way out. Just my opinion though.


----------



## noext

just installed the g10 on my r9 290 dual-x

this thing is crazy gpu temp top @50°C instead of 75-80°C Before
with the default OC (1100/1300) vrm1 maxout @30°C, the vrm2 go up to @70°C (maybe more in long benchmark ) ( before vrm2 go up to 80°C)

but one question : after benchmark or gaming the vrm2 never go below 55°C when before with the dual-X fan in idle its stay at 30°C

the r9 290 dual-x have not a reference design so i can't put gelid heatsink ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426042 ) on my card, any solution to make the vrm2 more cool in idle ?

Thx


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noext*
> 
> just installed the g10 on my r9 290 dual-x
> 
> this thing is crazy gpu temp top @50°C instead of 75-80°C Before
> with the default OC (1100/1300) vrm1 maxout @30°C, the vrm2 go up to @70°C (maybe more in long benchmark ) ( before vrm2 go up to 80°C)
> 
> but one question : after benchmark or gaming the vrm2 never go below 55°C when before with the dual-X fan in idle its stay at 30°C
> 
> the r9 290 dual-x have not a reference design so i can't put gelid heatsink ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426042 ) on my card, any solution to make the vrm2 more cool in idle ?
> 
> Thx


If you cant get a heatsink put on it, I would just try and put additional air blowing over it. There are spotcoolers that will do this job, or you can figure out some other way of accomplishing it but just get more air over the VRMs. Those numbers are not a problem safety wise.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noext*
> 
> just installed the g10 on my r9 290 dual-x
> 
> this thing is crazy gpu temp top @50°C instead of 75-80°C Before
> with the default OC (1100/1300) vrm1 maxout @30°C, the vrm2 go up to @70°C (maybe more in long benchmark ) ( before vrm2 go up to 80°C)
> 
> but one question : after benchmark or gaming the vrm2 never go below 55°C when before with the dual-X fan in idle its stay at 30°C
> 
> the r9 290 dual-x have not a reference design so i can't put gelid heatsink ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426042 ) on my card, any solution to make the vrm2 more cool in idle ?
> 
> Thx


U can put thermal tape. It will work just fine for the vrm


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The fan on the Kraken is actually plenty for the job, the problem comes in when the GPU vendors decide to place the VRM heatsink on their cooler design vs placing it on the PCB. You can not really point the finger at a particular vendor, I believe all of them do it both ways on their various offerings.Their may be advantages to doing it this way on certain designs, but to me, placing it in their cooler is the cheap way out. Just my opinion though.


You just confirmed my point.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> You just confirmed my point.


It want meant to argue against your point, I was adding to it, I should have been more clear in that respect.


----------



## goofyhsk

Temporarily mounted by G10 + H105 on EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 (04G-P4-2974-KR)

Can confirm fitting in Bitfenix Prodigy ITX, however the long section of bracket near the fan rests against the side panel

Can sort of see here

(Tried to take a few pictures but having brightness issues)

Note: I did not have the foam bits between card and bracket
There is perhaps 5mm between fan and side panel - same with pump hoses

(I will be going full cover block instead)


----------



## zorvalth

Be careful, your vrms are on the other side of the core and you dont have any cooling on them. The kraken fans i blowing in to nothing.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Hey, did you see the new arctic coolers freezer 120 and freezer 240. They are very cheap here in europe 60/70 euro they are with the asetek design but a little different. Do you think they could fit g10? They got very thick radiators and 2/4 fans for push pull! I ordered one for my cpu but if they fit i will get one and kraken for my 980.
> 
> Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk


I also consider freezer 240 for my 780 (here in Greece it cost 68 euro) please let me know if the freezer fits with kraken G10.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> I also consider freezer 240 for my 780 (here in Greece it cost 68 euro) please let me know if the freezer fits with kraken G10.


It appears to be the Asetek design used on the NZXT bracket. Was it on their approved list on the NZXT site?


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> It appears to be the Asetek design used on the NZXT bracket. Was it on their approved list on the NZXT site?


Its not in the list but i just read this "The Kraken G10 from NZXT allows you to install your existing Asetek liquid cooling setup on your graphics card for just a few bucks."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YattxxyWRh0


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Its not in the list but i just read this "The Kraken G10 from NZXT allows you to install your existing Asetek liquid cooling setup on your graphics card for just a few bucks."
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YattxxyWRh0


Based on the pictures I found of it, It "looks" like it will work just fine. But until its done, no one can really offer you a guarantee. The scale on the pics can be off and there is one that looks similar but does not quite work. But if it were me, I would try it. Worst case is you return it.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Based on the pictures I found of it, It "looks" like it will work just fine. But until its done, no one can really offer you a guarantee. The scale on the pics can be off and there is one that looks similar but does not quite work.


I am not in a rush i just asked zorvalth cause he said that he will purchase the cooler and he will try it in G10.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> I am not in a rush i just asked zorvalth cause he said that he will purchase the cooler and he will try it in G10.


As i said, based on the pics I found of it, looks like it wont be an issue. Good luck


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> As i said, based on the pics I found of it, looks like it wont be an issue. Good luck


Ok mate thanks,if i try it i will write here so any other want to try freezer AIO with G10 to know.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Ok mate thanks,if i try it i will write here so any other want to try freezer AIO with G10 to know.


Excellent, thats the kind of inifo we need in here. NZXTs approved list is falling behind with all the new coolers coming out regularly.


----------



## zorvalth

I ordered freezer 240 for my CPU but I dont have g10, Thats why i asked is it going to fit, because freezer 120 would be nice for g10. If I find from some friend g10 i will test and let you know guys.


----------



## Poverty

Hey all,

Finally found the solution to my Gigabyte 980 Ti G1! I've been hunting and hoping for an AIO solution for weeks and I can't believe I didn't think to look here sooner!

I went with the G1 over the packaged Hybrid models for the slighter out of the box performance, but mostly because it was the only card I could find with dual DVI support - my 2? year old ASUS 144hz monitors don't have DisplayPort, and HDMI doesn't support the higher refresh.

I've had the card for a little over 2 months now, and the difference from my previous card - a 760 FTW - is just absolutely silly. This is the first time I've had a "top of the line" card and I can't believe my eyes.

But I had really wanted a Hybrid model. The difference in price - I ended up getting the G1 for $620 after rebate through Amazon - was just too good to pass up. I'd be looking at another $130+tax. That'd be silly, and everything else (except my CPU, h100i for that) is cooled with fans, so this should be fine. Then I saw the temps that this card put out, and was a bit.. unnerved. I know the performance is 3x what I had before, but my temps were doubled as well. That isn't going to end well. The fans are a bit whiney as well, and I can feel it through my headphones. I've also had to keep the case fans at max speed just to keep an idle temp of about 48. I have great airflow in the case, with fans mounted everywhere _except_ for the 200mm side intake. I picked up a windowed panel when NZXT released those.

I'm looking at moving into a new case (Phantom 820) with a new PSU (HX1000i) as well over the new year, and adding the G10 with a Corsair H90 and some small heatsinks for the VRMs to my G1. I'm hoping to get some nice before, during and after shots for you all!


----------



## MattyMatt

Does anyone know which plastidip blue would be closest to the blue NZXT uses?


----------



## Nate Hatred

Hi guys,

I've been trying to buy a 2nd hand MSI Gaming GTX 980. Unfortunately the previous owner, after putting a full cover water block on the board, lost the cooling plates for VRM and vRAM chips.. since the price is way too good to pass on this, I've been looking for alternative cooling solutions and I've came across the G10 bracket by NZXT (which would go perfectly with my old Corsair H55 and my NZXT s340 case), but I can't find any information about compatibility between the bracket and the MSI Gaming version of the GTX 980.. does any of you use this on this kind of board?

Thanks


----------



## MattyMatt

It'll work.

http://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/MSI-GTX-980-Gaming-4G-GeForce-GTX-980-4GB-GDDR5-%28V317-008R%29-PCB.jpg

Just make to grab some heatsinks for the VRMs and VRAM.


----------



## Nate Hatred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> It'll work.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/MSI-GTX-980-Gaming-4G-GeForce-GTX-980-4GB-GDDR5-%28V317-008R%29-PCB.jpg
> 
> Just make to grab some heatsinks for the VRMs and VRAM.


Thanks Matt, that's probably what I'll do.. I'll just grab a few heatsinks from Arctic Cooling a put on the Kraken G10!

Can't wait


----------



## saviorbk

Hey all!

Proud owner of 2 G10's checking in!
https://goo.gl/photos/GZr2rSxe5WxdnxWy9

While I love my G10's, my sli setup with two EVGA SC 770's has been underwhelming.
The Corsair water pump in the old H-100 has been rattling for a while now and I want to replace it with one of my X-41 pump/radiators that's on my 770, and replace the sli with a single 970.

Here lies the problem. I apparently threw away the adapter on the pump unit thinking I would never use it. Is there anyone here who would be willing a sell their adapter, or even a link to buy would do.

I hate coming here to ask for things, but this seems like the place with the most knowledge.

Thanks


----------



## GrumpyOne

Hey guys, all of these threads and hundreds of pages to search through are starting to make my head spin.

I'm simply trying to see what else I need to cool my 780 ACX using the G10 and a H80i GT that Santa is bringing me in a few days.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saviorbk*
> 
> Hey all!
> 
> Proud owner of 2 G10's checking in!
> https://goo.gl/photos/GZr2rSxe5WxdnxWy9
> 
> While I love my G10's, my sli setup with two EVGA SC 770's has been underwhelming.
> The Corsair water pump in the old H-100 has been rattling for a while now and I want to replace it with one of my X-41 pump/radiators that's on my 770, and replace the sli with a single 970.
> 
> Here lies the problem. I apparently threw away the adapter on the pump unit thinking I would never use it. Is there anyone here who would be willing a sell their adapter, or even a link to buy would do.
> 
> I hate coming here to ask for things, but this seems like the place with the most knowledge.
> 
> Thanks


looks awesome

congrats


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> Hey guys, all of these threads and hundreds of pages to search through are starting to make my head spin.
> 
> I'm simply trying to see what else I need to cool my 780 ACX using the G10 and a H80i GT that Santa is bringing me in a few days.


Go here: http://www.ekwb.com/configurator/
Pick your card. Now you'll know whether or not it has a midplate. If it does, buy a shim: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180905731455?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Go ahead and buy heatsinks too. If it has a midplate, buy a bunch of these: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/PC-Radiator-CHIP-Radiator-RAM-Radiator-B16/1866300039.html (two packs should suffice)
No midplate? You'll also need these: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/PC-Radiator-Others-MOS-Radiator/1864684796.html

With midplate, place the larger heatsinks near vram and vrm modules. No midplate, use smaller heatsinks directly on the VRM.

Done.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> Hey guys, all of these threads and hundreds of pages to search through are starting to make my head spin.
> 
> I'm simply trying to see what else I need to cool my 780 ACX using the G10 and a H80i GT that Santa is bringing me in a few days.


If that is a Corsair H80i it won't work with the G10.


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> If that is a Corsair H80i it won't work with the G10.


It's what I'm starting to find out. Looks like if I want to keep the H80 I should be using Corsair's bracket, the HG10:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WR28574?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I really wanted to use the Kraken since it matches my white H440 case, Corsair doesn't offer any color options, but I am seeing some comments on it being able to keep the VRMs cooler better than the Kraken without extra parts.

Decisions, decisions...


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> It's what I'm starting to find out. Looks like if I want to keep the H80 I should be using Corsair's bracket, the HG10:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WR28574?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> I really wanted to use the Kraken since it matches my white H440 case, Corsair doesn't offer any color options, but I am seeing some comments on it being able to keep the VRMs cooler better than the Kraken without extra parts.
> 
> Decisions, decisions...


Just paint it mate. I was under the impression the corair bracket applied a midplate to the vrms.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> . I was under the impression the corair bracket applied a midplate to the vrms.


I need to buy one and check it out. I just cant stand the fan they chose.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Just paint it mate. I was under the impression the corair bracket applied a midplate to the vrms.


I've used the HG10 on an R9 290 and it cools the VRM's very well. Part of the bracket makes direct contract with the VRMs as well as the Vram modules and the whole bracket acts like a heatsink. The blower fan was enough to keep everything cool running at about 30% constant. It is a very good product. If you don't like the colour, you could paint it. Just don't paint the bottom side that contacts the VRM/Vram (obviously).


----------



## Artex667

*MSI 980TI Kraken G10 + H90 + 2x140mm thermaltake riing*




Temps allways under 50c (only if O/C then reach about 50)
Really happy with it


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I've used the HG10 on an R9 290 and it cools the VRM's very well. Part of the bracket makes direct contract with the VRMs as well as the Vram modules and the whole bracket acts like a heatsink. The blower fan was enough to keep everything cool running at about 30% constant. It is a very good product. If you don't like the colour, you could paint it. Just don't paint the bottom side that contacts the VRM/Vram (obviously).


But it only works with a reference 290/x. Not too sure where one can find a radial fan too. Corsair should have included a fan in the bracket.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> But it only works with a reference 290/x. Not too sure where one can find a radial fan too. Corsair should have included a fan in the bracket.


Yes, the HG10 for the reference 290's uses the blower fan from the stock 290 air cooler. But for the other models of the HG10 - like that for the 780/980 etc., I believe Corsair does include a blower fan with the bracket. At least that's what it shows when I check those specific models on Corsair's website.


----------



## skkane

Did anyone switch from X41 krakens to X61 for the 980 ti? What was the temp improvement with the bigger rad?

Currently topping out @ 51/52c both cards with X41's and real curious if the x61's would be getting like 45C range or so.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Did anyone switch from X41 krakens to X61 for the 980 ti? What was the temp improvement with the bigger rad?
> 
> Currently topping out @ 51/52c both cards with X41's and real curious if the x61's would be getting like 45C range or so


You realize that 5 or 6C is not going to make any noticeable difference in performance. 51/52C are excellent numbers. Anyway 45C would of course be better







Its an OCN thing


----------



## skkane

I get random crashes @ 1500 after an hour or so of gtav. Happens at 1490 also so settled on 1480. Was thinking it might be due to temps and 45C would stable out that nice round 1500mhz clock









I'll just wait for pascal and hope that they will have *NO* coil noise.







For the price we pay for these cards it's ridiculous, one of mine's sounds like total crap with the silent cooling now, fans covered that whine before... driving me mad.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> I get random crashes @ 1500 after an hour or so of gtav. Happens at 1490 also so settled on 1480. Was thinking it might be due to temps and 45C would stable out that nice round 1500mhz clock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just wait for pascal and hope that they will have *NO* coil noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the price we pay for these cards it's ridiculous, one of mine's sounds like total crap with the silent cooling now, fans covered that whine before... driving me mad.


If you want the 1500 core title enough to buy another cooler by all means do it. Thats a good enough reason for me







It could make the difference on your serup/ Would beef up vrm cooling as much as possible too.

I have heard several people complain about coil whine but I seriously have not had any coile whine in at least "my" audible range since pre Kepler days on NVIDIA side and southern islands of AMDs GPUs. It would drive me insane.


----------



## skkane

I've been upgrading since 3dfx voodoo 2 days and these 980 ti's are the first cards I have ever heard coil noise on. My 970 used to do it only in menu's where i was getting 180+ fps. These do it at any fps. Gets louder more with fps rising.

Guess that's why the guy sold the card on ebay in the first place


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> I've been upgrading since 3dfx voodoo 2 days and these 980 ti's are the first cards I have ever heard coil noise on. My 970 used to do it only in menu's where i was getting 180+ fps. These do it at any fps. Gets louder more with fps rising.


That would get on my nerves. Dont think I would live with it on the high dollar cards. Oddly enough, a 3dfx voodoo2 was my first "high end" accelerator. I do not think most people on here have ever seen a pass through accelerator







. I had a ATI Rage 3d feeding into it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Guess that's why the guy sold the card on ebay in the first place


Probably. Ive sold several GPUs on here but I try to avoid ebay. Its gotten ridiculous.


----------



## skkane

I think I had an S3 virge or something. Then the voodoo1 accel came out and I got that, then v2 (Still running the s3 verge for 2d







) some matrox g200 i remember looking awfully nice in 2d and windows desktop in general, fun days, good memories


----------



## Nocturney

Hey guys !
So.. I got a pair of G10 brackets for my 970 SLI, as for the cooling I have Corsais H55 and Corsair H90.
I plan on doing a push-pull config on both of them.

What would be the proper cable installation ?
I ordered _Gelid Solutions 4-Pin PWM Adaptor Cable for VGA_ to connect the Included VRM fan, but where do I properly connect the pump and radiator fans ?
Should I connect the pump on one motherboard header and split the fans to another ?


----------



## skkane

That is how I used to run them before getting this grid2 fan controller. I had the two pumps on a splitter and used only one header on mb, same for both fans. Didn't feel the need to run each pump separately.


----------



## Nocturney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> That is how I used to run them before getting this grid2 fan controller. I had the two pumps on a splitter and used only one header on mb, same for both fans. Didn't feel the need to run each pump separately.


Wonderful, Thanks!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nocturney*
> 
> Hey guys !
> So.. I got a pair of G10 brackets for my 970 SLI, as for the cooling I have Corsais H55 and Corsair H90.
> I plan on doing a push-pull config on both of them.
> 
> What would be the proper cable installation ?
> I ordered _Gelid Solutions 4-Pin PWM Adaptor Cable for VGA_ to connect the Included VRM fan, but where do I properly connect the pump and radiator fans ?
> Should I connect the pump on one motherboard header and split the fans to another ?


I would plug the pump into a mainboard header if you have them. Verify it is getting full power in the bios. You can split the fans without issue. I would think. Are the Vrms on rear or front of the pcb for your 970s? Are you going to run the H90 on the top gpu?


----------



## Nocturney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I would plug the pump into a mainboard header if you have them. Verify it is getting full power in the bios. You can split the fans without issue. I would think. Are the Vrms on rear or front of the pcb for your 970s? Are you going to run the H90 on the top gpu?


I've got Strix 970's by Asus. VRM is closer to the output connections.
Considering that the top card usually gets warmer - yes, the H90 will go on top, and the H55 for the bottom one.

Read about the recommendation of applying heatsinks on the VRM, how dramatically important is that ?
Also, I have a couple of PCI slot fan brackets laying around, would it be necessary or will give noticeable benefits ?


----------



## cre3d

Has anyone here had issues with high temps on their r9 290 + H55 setups? I am certainly no rookie to thermal paste application or cooler mounting but I can't seem to get this thing to cooperate no matter what I do. I am running the pump wired directly to the power supply with 2x gentle typhoon AP-15 fans (1850rpm) in push/pull with the cooler mounted on the back of the case. I have the stock MSI backplate still on the card and extra VRAM heatsinks but the card reaches 94-95C within a minute of being in-game when playing fallout4 and similar games. This causes it to throttle of course, resulting in a pretty inconsistent experience.

I have remounted the cooler 5x now, trying varying levels of pressure and ensuring adequate thermal paste distribution to no avail. I finally got frustrated and tried an old Antec Kuhler 620 that I had mounted to another video card and lo and behold -- temperatures are down to 65C under full load with an identical configuration.

I played with the H55 pump outside the case attached to a spare power supply a bit to see if there was any odd vibration or visible lack of flow but as far as I can tell, nothing seems to be out of the norm. I am wondering if this is something I should be contacting corsair about or if someone else has experience similar issues and could provide insight. I attached some pictures of the thermal paste application/spread for the inevitable doubters


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nocturney*
> 
> I've got Strix 970's by Asus. VRM is closer to the output connections.
> Considering that the top card usually gets warmer - yes, the H90 will go on top, and the H55 for the bottom one.
> 
> Read about the recommendation of applying heatsinks on the VRM, how dramatically important is that ?
> Also, I have a couple of PCI slot fan brackets laying around, would it be necessary or will give noticeable benefits ?


You already have a good heatsink on the Vrms if you have the strix version. What you need to do is rig up some airflow to flow over it and you will be fine. I rigged up a simple fan connected to a case blank. Was a little ghetto but worked, Point is it doesnt have to be fancy but get some airflow over the heat sink and you will be fine. When you say slot fan, are you referring to the case blanks with the reference style blower coolers? If so that "might" work. I prefer to have air blowing straight on the vrms though. but that style fan may pull air from the fan at the rear across and do the job. You can certainly try it and watch temps.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre3d*
> 
> Has anyone here had issues with high temps on their r9 290 + H55 setups? I am certainly no rookie to thermal paste application or cooler mounting but I can't seem to get this thing to cooperate no matter what I do. I am running the pump wired directly to the power supply with 2x gentle typhoon AP-15 fans (1850rpm) in push/pull with the cooler mounted on the back of the case. I have the stock MSI backplate still on the card and extra VRAM heatsinks but the card reaches 94-95C within a minute of being in-game when playing fallout4 and similar games. This causes it to throttle of course, resulting in a pretty inconsistent experience.
> 
> I have remounted the cooler 5x now, trying varying levels of pressure and ensuring adequate thermal paste distribution to no avail. I finally got frustrated and tried an old Antec Kuhler 620 that I had mounted to another video card and lo and behold -- temperatures are down to 65C under full load with an identical configuration.
> 
> I played with the H55 pump outside the case attached to a spare power supply a bit to see if there was any odd vibration or visible lack of flow but as far as I can tell, nothing seems to be out of the norm. I am wondering if this is something I should be contacting corsair about or if someone else has experience similar issues and could provide insight. I attached some pictures of the thermal paste application/spread for the inevitable doubters


This sounds like a defective H55. I would ask for an RMA. Corsair is pretty good about this. The paste contact pattern looks good enough that you shouldnt be seeing those temps to me.


----------



## Nocturney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You already have a good heatsink on the Vrms if you have the strix version. What you need to do is rig up some airflow to flow over it and you will be fine. I rigged up a simple fan connected to a case blank. Was a little ghetto but worked, Point is it doesnt have to be fancy but get some airflow over the heat sink and you will be fine. When you say slot fan, are you referring to the case blanks with the reference style blower coolers? If so that "might" work. I prefer to have air blowing straight on the vrms though. but that style fan may pull air from the fan at the rear across and do the job. You can certainly try it and watch temps.


What I have is brackets that hold case fans and are placed in the unoccupied PCI spaces, attached to the case like any PCI card would, just without being connected to the motherboard slots.
This way they can be placed under any needed graphics card and blow air directly on it.
Here's the product link btw - http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ultrathin-PCI-GPU-Companion-Ultra-silence-Universal-VGA-COOLER-GPU-Cooling-Fan-EBM-PAPST-8015/32414134480.html


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nocturney*
> 
> What I have is brackets that hold case fans and are placed in the unoccupied PCI spaces, attached to the case like any PCI card would, just without being connected to the motherboard slots.
> This way they can be placed under any needed graphics card and blow air directly on it.
> Here's the product link btw - http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ultrathin-PCI-GPU-Companion-Ultra-silence-Universal-VGA-COOLER-GPU-Cooling-Fan-EBM-PAPST-8015/32414134480.html


If you have the room those should work well. I would probably skip the fan that mounts to the NZXT bracket since the vrms are on the other side. That will be fine to cool VRAM without the NZXT fan. Nice find.


----------



## Neriton

Well It's amazing Thread.
But I'm not good with english so i can't understand verywell some points.

I've got a EVGA GTX 980 TI SC ACX2.0 in SLI with a GTX 980 TI HOF

I wanna install a G10. What i need to know before doing it?

Should do it into HOF or EVGA?
Should i worry about heatsinks? And what i need to know about.

is There any advice about this VGA's?

Well i need to install at least one of then because when I'm playing its about 83C with fisrt Graphics Card.

Thank you all!!!


----------



## wabak

Hi all,

Just installed 2x G10s combined with 2x x41s in a hope of cooling a pair of R9 290x's.

So far so good!

Running Heaven Benchmark at 4k on Ultra, GPU temps didn't exceed 60c (been at 90 deg before and sounding like a jumbo jet at 100% fan speed) and the VRMs didn't exceed 83c! These were a major issue before, I've registered 114c before on the XFX DD R9 290x, and these were always insanely high. It's all extremely quiet too. Switch of case as well, went from the 300r to the H440.

Now, minor issue...

I don't have the ability to control the X41 radiator fans... CAM software is picking up both Krakens, but showing 0 rpm although they are spinning... any issue what could be causing this? I have connected one Kraken to a molex 3pin adapter and the other to a sys fan header, would I need to connect the radiator fans to a sys fan header slot, to be able to control these?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wabak*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Just installed 2x G10s combined with 2x x41s in a hope of cooling a pair of R9 290x's.
> 
> So far so good!
> 
> Running Heaven Benchmark at 4k on Ultra, GPU temps didn't exceed 60c (been at 90 deg before and sounding like a jumbo jet at 100% fan speed) and the VRMs didn't exceed 83c! These were a major issue before, I've registered 114c before on the XFX DD R9 290x, and these were always insanely high. It's all extremely quiet too. Switch of case as well, went from the 300r to the H440.
> 
> Now, minor issue...
> 
> I don't have the ability to control the X41 radiator fans... CAM software is picking up both Krakens, but showing 0 rpm although they are spinning... any issue what could be causing this? I have connected one Kraken to a molex 3pin adapter and the other to a sys fan header, would I need to connect the radiator fans to a sys fan header slot, to be able to control these?


I would suggest running the pumps off 12v molex adapter as they don't need to be regulated and run both rad fans off a splitter to one fan header on your motherboard. That way you will be able to control both rad fans together and set them to what ever speed you like.


----------



## DotNetApp

Hello,
I just have a Fan question about the Kraken g10+ Kraken x41







.
So i thought about this fans
Kraken g10 with this fan SilverStone FM93 (SST-FM93)
Kraken x41 with this fan BitFenix Spectre Pro PWM schwarz 140mm (BFF-SPRO-P14025KK-RP)
Both fans have good power and are not so loud as the basic fans what would you say to this?

//sorry for my bad english :/


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotNetApp*
> 
> Hello,
> I just have a Fan question about the Kraken g10+ Kraken x41
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> So i thought about this fans
> Kraken g10 with this fan SilverStone FM93 (SST-FM93)
> Kraken x41 with this fan BitFenix Spectre Pro PWM schwarz 140mm (BFF-SPRO-P14025KK-RP)
> Both fans have good power and are not so loud as the basic fans what would you say to this?
> 
> //sorry for my bad english :/


The Bitfenix Spectre pros are not that great. I have run them on my G-10/H-90s when they were on the 770s and they did not do very well.


----------



## wabak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I would suggest running the pumps off 12v molex adapter as they don't need to be regulated and run both rad fans off a splitter to one fan header on your motherboard. That way you will be able to control both rad fans together and set them to what ever speed you like.


Hey man, thanks for the reply.

The issue was I was running both pumps off 5v, instead of 12v. When I switched to 12v, I am now able to control the fans and the pump using CAM.

3 hours of GTA V at 4k - VRMs didn't exceed 85c, and GPU temp didn't exceed 63c, this was on the top card, bottom one was around 10c cooler on average. It's very quiet too.

Really happy with this so far.


----------



## Luckael

will this kraken G10 fit on Zotac Gtx 980Ti amp omega?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckael*
> 
> will this kraken G10 fit on Zotac Gtx 980Ti amp omega?


Looking at the pic of this GPU disassembled, the G-10 will fit but the heatsink over the VRMs is large. You will have to measure the height of the sink to verify. I "think" it will work May need a shim.



Note: pic is AMP edition, I am not sure how much the OMEGA differs. I couldnt find a disassembled pic of the Omega.


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Looking at the pic of this GPU disassembled, the G-10 will fit but the heatsink over the VRMs is large. You will have to measure the height of the sink to verify. I "think" it will work May need a shim.
> 
> 
> 
> Note: pic is AMP edition, I am not sure how much the OMEGA differs. I couldnt find a disassembled pic of the Omega.


I own the amp and can confirm it fits perfect, No shim needed.


----------



## BigBeard86

This may have been asked before, but is the g10 compatible with HBM GPUs? Does anyone have any info on this?

And to a previous poster...if your temps are high after using the g10, either your watercooler is bad, or you didn't mount it evenly/correctly/tight enough.

The first time I mounted mine, I was too cautious, and ended up having the same issue as you. Now my crossfire 290's under full load hit 43c and 37c (top and bottom, respectively). My vrm also stays under 40c full load. This is using two kraken x41's, with vrm heatsinks and aftermarket fans on the g10 and x41s.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> This may have been asked before, but is the g10 compatible with HBM GPUs? Does anyone have any info on this?
> .


I have not attempted the yet and I do not believe anyone has tried it yet in this thread. Im thinking it will but it may be close. Unfortunately your in uncharted waters there. If you do try it.....let us know please.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> I own the amp and can confirm it fits perfect, No shim needed.


Excellent, thanks for posting up.


----------



## MattyMatt

So I thought I'd ordered a shim, turns out I ordered thermal pads.

Does anyone know where I can get 25mmX25mmX1.5mm copper shim, shipped to Canada without paying any excessive fees?


----------



## moonroket

hello guys, i want to ask. i have msi r9 290 gaming and want to install kraken g10 on my GPU. can i keep the backplate and how much clearance for vram heat sink.
im new to gpu custom cooler and need information about vram heat sink, if 14mm x 14mm is enough?

sorry for my bad English


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonroket*
> 
> hello guys, i want to ask. i have msi r9 290 gaming and want to install kraken g10 on my GPU. can i keep the backplate and how much clearance for vram heat sink.
> im new to gpu custom cooler and need information about vram heat sink, if 14mm x 14mm is enough?
> 
> sorry for my bad English


Yes you may and should leave your back plate. With a back plate i recommend skipping the NZXT back plate all together and just putting the screws through the existing holes. Be sure that they will not pull through. It may be necessary to add some washers to keep them from pulling through. I have not needed any on the multiple installs ive done on my gpus but each card is a bit different. I do not know the actual dimesnsions for the clearance on the 290 but I do not believe anyone installing them on the 290 have had issue. If you scan back through the thread you will find several who installed the G-10 on that gpu.

You do not need a VRAM hearsink. Just one on the VRMs. which version of the MSI 290 do you have? You need to verify whether the heat sink is mounted directly on the PCB or if it is part of the actual cooler that comes with the GPU. If it is part of the GPU cooler you will need to get some Heat Sinks to place onto the VRMs to make sure they get plenty of cooling from the fan on the NZXT bracket.


----------



## blacbabo

I'm using palit gtx 780 jetstream 3 gb. I bought corsair hg10 780 for it and unfortunately they are no match due to the vam on the pcb. Then I found kraken g10. Based on what I've seen from this thread I think it will fit my gpu, hopefully. It will arrive this Sunday and will find out


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blacbabo*
> 
> I'm using palit gtx 780 jetstream 3 gb. I bought corsair hg10 780 for it and unfortunately they are no match due to the vam on the pcb. Then I found kraken g10. Based on what I've seen from this thread I think it will fit my gpu, hopefully. It will arrive this Sunday and will find out


Should work well for you. Which AIO/CLC are you going to use? One of the best things about this mod is it keeps it simple.


----------



## OV3RLORD

Not quite sure if anyone has had the same "problem" before, but I'm getting 38°-48°C on Idle with an non-reference ASUS ROG R9 290X Matrix (non-Platinum) and a NZXT Kraken x31 with one (pushing) fan installed. Under Load, it depends on the game, but I've seen everything up to 83°-85°C in Euro Truck Simulator 2 (absolutely no clue why that game makes my GPU run so hot (with the standard Matrix cooler the card was at 94°C pretty fast and lowered its clock speed) as games like Red Orchestra 2 only make the card run at 65°C). Now I'd ike to ask if thats normal. I did also notice that my pump seems to buzz a little.
What's weird is that yesterday when I installed the thing i only got 31°C in Idle with a Standard Cooltek fan (pushing) and the NZXT Fan (pulling). Then I changed both of them out, so now the NZXT Fan was pushing. That's when I got those higher temps. After that I removed the Cooltek fan thinking that it was slowing the NZXT Fan down, and surprisingly the temps didn't change at all. Now I'm not sure what to do. If anyone would be so kind and tell me if those temps are okay, I'd be really happy.


----------



## BigBeard86

Your temps are not normal. The idle temps are fine; my crossfire idles at 30c and 28c.
Under load, the primary card never does above 46c, and the other card never goes above 41 c( usually at 39c playing BF4).

I use two nzxt x41s for my gpus.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OV3RLORD*
> 
> Not quite sure if anyone has had the same "problem" before, but I'm getting 38°-48°C on Idle with an non-reference ASUS ROG R9 290X Matrix (non-Platinum) and a NZXT Kraken x31 with one (pushing) fan installed. Under Load, it depends on the game, but I've seen everything up to 83°-85°C in Euro Truck Simulator 2 (absolutely no clue why that game makes my GPU run so hot (with the standard Matrix cooler the card was at 94°C pretty fast and lowered its clock speed) as games like Red Orchestra 2 only make the card run at 65°C). Now I'd ike to ask if thats normal. I did also notice that my pump seems to buzz a little.
> What's weird is that yesterday when I installed the thing i only got 31°C in Idle with a Standard Cooltek fan (pushing) and the NZXT Fan (pulling). Then I changed both of them out, so now the NZXT Fan was pushing. That's when I got those higher temps. After that I removed the Cooltek fan thinking that it was slowing the NZXT Fan down, and surprisingly the temps didn't change at all. Now I'm not sure what to do. If anyone would be so kind and tell me if those temps are okay, I'd be really happy.


The 80+ temps are not ok. You should be considerablybetter than the 65 C number too. Idle temps in the low 30s C are not abnormal for multi GPU setups but your max temps should be under 60C worst case. Usually the gpus are in the 48 to 55C range for most people. Be sure that the fans arent reversed against each other. Its an easier mistake to make than you think. Then make sure that the fans are getting full power off the mainboard header or by connecting to a molex to fan adapter. Barring that re seat the pumps to make sure the cold plates are getting good contact and make sure that they are getting full power as well.


----------



## blacbabo

I bought corsair h75 along with the hg 10. Luckily kraken g10 is compatible with h75.


----------



## OV3RLORD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Be sure that the fans arent reversed against each other.


I'm gonna take the unit apart again tomorrow and check if anything is wrong. Hope, that will help, to be honest I was pretty disappointed with my results, but maybe it's just because of some stupid mistake I made.
I do still have two questions:
1) I have a stock cooltek fan that was included in my case and the nzxt fan. I'm not sure how to connect all of those things, as I'm afraid that the two fans in push-pull config will slow each other down. Does anyone have a clue on how to make this work?

2)I have installed the x31 on the rear fan slot. Should I change the CPU coolers direction so that it blows out the air to the top? I'm not sure if that will destroy the airflow.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OV3RLORD*
> 
> I'm gonna take the unit apart again tomorrow and check if anything is wrong. Hope, that will help, to be honest I was pretty disappointed with my results, but maybe it's just because of some stupid mistake I made.
> I do still have two questions:
> 1) I have a stock cooltek fan that was included in my case and the nzxt fan. I'm not sure how to connect all of those things, as I'm afraid that the two fans in push-pull config will slow each other down. Does anyone have a clue on how to make this work?
> 
> 2)I have installed the x31 on the rear fan slot. Should I change the CPU coolers direction so that it blows out the air to the top? I'm not sure if that will destroy the airflow.


Its hard to really visualize your air circuit. Do up a quick diagram. Here is mine, took 5 minutes.(Simple paint shop massacre) 

I have the CPU radiator fans on intake and the GPU on exhaust. This is of course only for my components in a Corsair 400R case. But CPU is typically good pulling in cool ambient air from the room to cool it. The GPUs generate much more heat that needs to be exhausted from the case IMO to reduce heat saturation. All the other fans help to fine tune it all. Im actually not running any push/pulls mostly because i have no room. 280mm CPU radiator is on top, Two 140mm radiators are on side panel.


----------



## OV3RLORD

That's pretty much my case. I'm using a Cooltek GT-04 (bad choice) so I can only put more fans to the top. The CPU tower could be rotated 90° so that it blows out air to the top.
Both the CPU fan and the NZXT fan on the back are 120mm.
I also have 1 fan (120mm) left, not sure where to put it yet.
I'm just not sure about two things:
1) As you can see, I had to mount the radiator outside of the case, and now theres a "metal net" between the radiator and the fan mounted inside. Will that decrease the performance? Should I cut it out?
2) I have the AsRock H97 Anniversary as it is cheap and I don't need extra PCIe Slots (atleast at the moment) and a bequiet! semi-modular PSU. Where should I connect the fan and pump headers? I've heard that some people leave the USB Connector of the x31 unconnected as CAM doesn't work properly and tweak the fan speed via Fan tune software. What do you say?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OV3RLORD*
> 
> 
> 
> That's pretty much my case. I'm using a Cooltek GT-04 (bad choice) so I can only put more fans to the top. The CPU tower could be rotated 90° so that it blows out air to the top.
> Both the CPU fan and the NZXT fan on the back are 120mm.
> I also have 1 fan (120mm) left, not sure where to put it yet.
> I'm just not sure about two things:
> 1) As you can see, I had to mount the radiator outside of the case, and now theres a "metal net" between the radiator and the fan mounted inside. Will that decrease the performance? Should I cut it out?
> 2) I have the AsRock H97 Anniversary as it is cheap and I don't need extra PCIe Slots (atleast at the moment) and a bequiet! semi-modular PSU. Where should I connect the fan and pump headers? I've heard that some people leave the USB Connector of the x31 unconnected as CAM doesn't work properly and tweak the fan speed via Fan tune software. What do you say?


Because of the limited space in my case, the 280mm CPU radiator is on the inside of the case and the fans are mounted externally. So they have to deal with the metal mesh of the case and thermaltake magnetic dust filter. So i wouldnt worry to much about that. The same goes for my G-10/H-90 radiators. They are on the inside of the case, the fans and filters are outside the case. Now that does not mean i left it ghetto looking, LOL. I put nice grills and did nice cable management.

Now you appear to have two 140mm slots up top to play with. Add a couple on intake and check your results. then go from there to optimize your circuit.


----------



## OV3RLORD

So, i completely reinstalled the unit and changed the fans out (NZXT fan outside, stock cooltek fan on the inside), still get idle temps at around 35°C in Silent Mode.

After playing Heaven Benchmark for roughly 10mins in Performance Mode, the GPU doesn't get any hotter than 60°C, however, the fans speed up extremely, which leads to an uncomfortable noise level, even through my headset


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OV3RLORD*
> 
> So, i completely reinstalled the unit and changed the fans out (NZXT fan outside, stock cooltek fan on the inside), still get idle temps at around 35°C in Silent Mode.
> 
> After playing Heaven Benchmark for roughly 10mins in Performance Mode, the GPU doesn't get any hotter than 60°C, however, the fans speed up extremely, which leads to an uncomfortable noise level, even through my headset


Go into your bios and set the fan headers to max at ~80%. Work your way down to a comfortable noise level that still gives good temps if you can. Be sure the pump for the AIO is left at full power.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OV3RLORD*
> 
> So, i completely reinstalled the unit and changed the fans out (NZXT fan outside, stock cooltek fan on the inside), still get idle temps at around 35°C in Silent Mode.
> 
> After playing Heaven Benchmark for roughly 10mins in Performance Mode, the GPU doesn't get any hotter than 60°C, however, the fans speed up extremely, which leads to an uncomfortable noise level, even through my headset


You can also try a free software program called Speedfan. It will allow you to control all your motherboard powered fans from 0rpm all the way up to what ever their max rpm is. You can control your GPU rad fans and create a custom fan curve that will adjust based on each GPU temps individually. It's a bit tricky to setup at first but once you learn it, it's an incredibly useful program. If you have an Asus motherboard, you'll need to uninstall AI suite (all tools except EZupdate) as that will interfere with the program.


----------



## Strangorth

Anyone done this with an MSI GTX 980ti 6G? Plan on doing it this weekend and just wondering if i'll need something for VRM cooling or if there's already adequate heat spreading in place. Also what kind of thermal paste are people using for GPU cooling?

EDIT: Also does the card have a PWM fan header so i can just plug into that and use MSI afterburner for control etc.


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strangorth*
> 
> Anyone done this with an MSI GTX 980ti 6G? Plan on doing it this weekend and just wondering if i'll need something for VRM cooling or if there's already adequate heat spreading in place. Also what kind of thermal paste are people using for GPU cooling?
> 
> EDIT: Also does the card have a PWM fan header so i can just plug into that and use MSI afterburner for control etc.


It has pwm but you'll need one of those gelid adapters to connect as it's mini-pwm on the card, or whatever they call it.


----------



## D0zey

Hi,

Noob here so bare with me.









I'm planning to buy the G10 along with the Corsair H55. Its for my 290x which runs at 86c on full load with a mild overclock.

Questions are:

1. For the H55 fan connector, should it be connected to a sys fan or a cpu fan header?
2. For the H55 pump connector, should it be connected to a sys fan or a cpu fan header?
3. For the Kraken fan connector, is it fine to connect this to the GPU using an adaptor?

Currently I have no spare fan headers on my motherboard. My plan would be to remove the rear exhaust fan (and use the H55 instead as an exhaust, which would free up a sys fan header), and connect my Noctua NH-D15 to just one cpu header using a splitter (currently have both fans connected to two separate cpu headers, this would free up one cpu fan header).

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0zey*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Noob here so bare with me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning to buy the G10 along with the Corsair H55. Its for my 290x which runs at 86c on full load with a mild overclock.
> 
> Questions are:
> 
> 1. For the H55 fan connector, should it be connected to a sys fan or a cpu fan header?
> 2. For the H55 pump connector, should it be connected to a sys fan or a cpu fan header?
> 3. For the Kraken fan connector, is it fine to connect this to the GPU using an adaptor?
> 
> Currently I have no spare fan headers on my motherboard. My plan would be to remove the rear exhaust fan (and use the H55 instead as an exhaust, which would free up a sys fan header), and connect my Noctua NH-D15 to just one cpu header using a splitter (currently have both fans connected to two separate cpu headers, this would free up one cpu fan header).
> 
> Thanks in advance!


It doesnt have to be a cpu fan header but do make sure the power is all the way up on that header. You can also use a molex to fan adapter which will give it full power. The fans can be connected to whatever you want as long as the power is sufficient to run the fans to the point that they get the job done. A lot of people have used the adapter for the gpu and hooked the NZXT VRM fan to it with good results. So that is an option. You can also buy a fan controller to handle all of the fans fo you.


----------



## jazz995756

I have the xfx 390 wanting to use the g10 to cool it I want to leave the backplate on it as with it there's still some sag even with it on that being said will I need a shim or will it just work? Also with xfx having redesigned the VRM heatsinks should I get some copper ones anyways? I'm wanting to over clock it past what I can get with air cooling. Also same goes for the vram should I get heatsinks for those too or leave them as is?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jazz995756*
> 
> I have the xfx 390 wanting to use the g10 to cool it I want to leave the backplate on it as with it there's still some sag even with it on that being said will I need a shim or will it just work? Also with xfx having redesigned the VRM heatsinks should I get some copper ones anyways? I'm wanting to over clock it past what I can get with air cooling. Also same goes for the vram should I get heatsinks for those too or leave them as is?


I am not familiar with the gpu, can you post a pic (Yours or off the internet) of the PCB with the cooler removed? If the VRM is mounted to the PCB it will probably be just fine for what your wanting to do, As for whether or not you need a shim, again we need to take a look at it and or perhaps someone who has already done this mod to that card will speak up. As for the VRAM, it is unlikely you will see any noticable gain in overclocking ability by using heat sinks on the VRAM. I tried this on SLI 770s and it wasnt worth the effort on those cards anyway. But it certainly can not hurt unless they fall off and land on something where it conducts electricity where it shouldnt.

You can definitely leave the back plate and you should. Check to see if the screw heads pull through the plate, if in doubt use a washer but skip the NZXT backplate. If you just want to use the NZXT back plate get longer screws and then remove the foam pad off the NZXT plate.


----------



## vladtheimpaler3

Hey guys,

I see mentions and references but before I buy I want to make sure:

I have a GTX 980 Ti G1 and while it is not listed on the supported list, I have seen references that this can done by getting VRM heat sinks and that G10 will properly mount on the card.

Is this correct? I just want a verification before I buy a H90 and the G10.

Thanks!


----------



## spacin9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vladtheimpaler3*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I see mentions and references but before I buy I want to make sure:
> 
> I have a GTX 980 Ti G1 and while it is not listed on the supported list, I have seen references that this can done by getting VRM heat sinks and that G10 will properly mount on the card.
> 
> Is this correct? I just want a verification before I buy a H90 and the G10.
> 
> Thanks!


I've been using (2) for GTX 780, GTX 780 Ti, GTX 970, GTX 980, GTX Titan X, and now GTX 980 Ti SLi. I run 1500/3800 OC for both cards. I use one reference and one non reference with a bigger PCB. Aesthetically a no-no but I only care that it works; which it does quite well. You can slap a Kraken on just about any high end card.

I'm not using any RAM or heatsinks on the VRMs. I did buy a couple of noctua 80mm fans to blast air over the vrms but I game for hours (years) without issue. I've had Krakens since they came out. As long as you can keep your core temps down, it carries over to other parts to lower overall board temps. Plus I use an open case to make sure they get good airflow.

With the G1, you might even be able to leave the backplate on to install. I've installed Krakens leaving on the backplate before.

RAM sinks are .. I never really believed in them.


----------



## Spectre-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vladtheimpaler3*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I see mentions and references but before I buy I want to make sure:
> 
> I have a GTX 980 Ti G1 and while it is not listed on the supported list, I have seen references that this can done by getting VRM heat sinks and that G10 will properly mount on the card.
> 
> Is this correct? I just want a verification before I buy a H90 and the G10.
> 
> Thanks!


Before i
went full loop my g1 980ti was with a g10 combo

Just don't put the nzxt plate on if you still want the stock backplate


----------



## vladtheimpaler3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacin9*
> 
> I've been using (2) for GTX 780, GTX 780 Ti, GTX 970, GTX 980, GTX Titan X, and now GTX 980 Ti SLi. I run 1500/3800 OC for both cards. I use one reference and one non reference with a bigger PCB. Aesthetically a no-no but I only care that it works; which it does quite well. You can slap a Kraken on just about any high end card.
> 
> I'm not using any RAM or heatsinks on the VRMs. I did buy a couple of noctua 80mm fans to blast air over the vrms but I game for hours (years) without issue. I've had Krakens since they came out. As long as you can keep your core temps down, it carries over to other parts to lower overall board temps. Plus I use an open case to make sure they get good airflow.
> 
> With the G1, you might even be able to leave the backplate on to install. I've installed Krakens leaving on the backplate before.
> 
> RAM sinks are .. I never really believed in them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> Before i
> went full loop my g1 980ti was with a g10 combo
> 
> Just don't put the nzxt plate on if you still want the stock backplate


Thanks for the answers guys! I am going to purchase one! My G1 is in a H440 and the airflow is killing it!


----------



## OV3RLORD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Be sure that the fans arent reversed against each other. Its an easier mistake to make than you think.


Well...Oops, I guess?
I just modded my case so I could build the side panel back on (as you can see on the picture I posted before the the radiator is mounted on the outside and I couldn't mount the panel back on unless I cut a little piece out) and just when I was about to close the case, I noticed that the fans were reversed against each other the whole time.







I'm feeling so embarassed, when you wrote this I was like: "Nah, I'm not THAT ******ed." but you were true: It's easier than you'd think. Just wanna say sorry for being dumb


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OV3RLORD*
> 
> Well...Oops, I guess?
> I just modded my case so I could build the side panel back on (as you can see on the picture I posted before the the radiator is mounted on the outside and I couldn't mount the panel back on unless I cut a little piece out) and just when I was about to close the case, I noticed that the fans were reversed against each other the whole time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm feeling so embarassed, when you wrote this I was like: "Nah, I'm not THAT ******ed." but you were true: It's easier than you'd think. Just wanna say sorry for being dumb


Id be lieing if I said I had never done it.







Glad you got it figured out.


----------



## OV3RLORD

My temps got even lower now. I don't ever hit 60°C


----------



## Zimzoid

Hey all very happy with the cooling performance of this on my Evga 980Ti ACX 2.0+, I was able to retain the midplate and backplate using a 25mm 1.6mm shim and a new Corsair H55 with push pull config using corsair pwm fans from a broken H100i i bought online for $10 the fans were new and unused.
Its the height of summer here in New Zealand ambient temps 20c+ idles at 26-29c and load temp in a heavy session of say BF4 am seeing temps of 50-58c was seeing 70c+ and its so much quieter, when winter rolls around its going to be even cooler!
Glad i got this instead of the Corsair HG10 which seems to have a few issues on the 980ti.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hey all very happy with the cooling performance of this on my Evga 980Ti ACX 2.0+, I was able to retain the midplate and backplate using a 25mm 1.6mm shim and a new Corsair H55 with push pull config using corsair pwm fans from a broken H100i i bought online for $10 the fans were new and unused.
> Its the height of summer here in New Zealand ambient temps 20c+ idles at 26-29c and load temp in a heavy session of say BF4 am seeing temps of 50-58c was seeing 70c+ and its so much quieter, when winter rolls around its going to be even cooler!
> Glad i got this instead of the Corsair HG10 which seems to have a few issues on the 980ti.


Nice temps! I think the NZXT G-10 is superior to the Corsair HG-10 as well. Corsair makes decent stuff in general, but their design on the HG-10 left me scratching my head on a couple of things. Its best to keep things simple sometimes.


----------



## Sakkura

I recently upgraded my Club3D R9 290 with a Kraken G10 and Corsair H55 too. Couldn't be happier with the performance, so much quieter than the Club3D cooler (which was better than stock, but still far from great). And the VRM temps are even lower than GPU temps because the card came with good VRM heatsinks that fit under the bracket. 53C GPU / 50C VRM running Unigine Heaven overclocked to 1150/1375 at stock voltage. That's with the single H55 fan and the VRM fan on the G10 running full speed. In practice I turn them down to get a balance of performance and noise. Around 60C running [email protected]

Only problem is my CPU is air cooled, and my Noctua NH-U12S just barely interferes with the rear radiator mount in my case (tubing clashes with the heatsink). I was wanting to upgrade the case at some point anyway, so... does anyone have suggestions on a case, perhaps especially with option for a bottom mounted radiator? The H55 tubing seems pretty short, running to the top or front might be tricky. Was thinking Fractal Design Define R5.

For now, the H55 radiator is just sitting upright on the bottom of my case, held by a bit of velcro. Works well enough, but not exactly the kind of setup you want to show off to anyone.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sakkura*
> 
> I recently upgraded my Club3D R9 290 with a Kraken G10 and Corsair H55 too. Couldn't be happier with the performance, so much quieter than the Club3D cooler (which was better than stock, but still far from great). And the VRM temps are even lower than GPU temps because the card came with good VRM heatsinks that fit under the bracket. 53C GPU / 50C VRM running Unigine Heaven overclocked to 1150/1375 at stock voltage. That's with the single H55 fan and the VRM fan on the G10 running full speed. In practice I turn them down to get a balance of performance and noise. Around 60C running [email protected]
> 
> Only problem is my CPU is air cooled, and my Noctua NH-U12S just barely interferes with the rear radiator mount in my case (tubing clashes with the heatsink). I was wanting to upgrade the case at some point anyway, so... does anyone have suggestions on a case, perhaps especially with option for a bottom mounted radiator? The H55 tubing seems pretty short, running to the top or front might be tricky. Was thinking Fractal Design Define R5.
> 
> For now, the H55 radiator is just sitting upright on the bottom of my case, held by a bit of velcro. Works well enough, but not exactly the kind of setup you want to show off to anyone.


Do a rig build and put it in your sig. Before anyone can really recommend a case, we need to know exactly what your wanting shoved in it. Look at all the crap in my gaming rig for instance. I barely get it in a Corsair 400R. Actually its not all in, I have the fans for my radiators...cpu 280mm and both G-10/H-90s mounted externally. But it works well.


----------



## Sakkura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Do a rig build and put it in your sig. Before anyone can really recommend a case, we need to know exactly what your wanting shoved in it. Look at all the crap in my gaming rig for instance. I barely get it in a Corsair 400R. Actually its not all in, I have the fans for my radiators...cpu 280mm and both G-10/H-90s mounted externally. But it works well.


Alright, done. Any input appreciated.









My rig is a lot more basic than your gaming system, but at least it doesn't restrict case options too much.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sakkura*
> 
> Alright, done. Any input appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My rig is a lot more basic than your gaming system, but at least it doesn't restrict case options too much.


Yeah my rig is kind of a mutt thing.. It just "happened" There was no epic plan.

Whats your budget on this?

The Fractal case you mentioned looks pretty good and price is not bad.

Ive used a couple of the Fractal Design Core 2300 Cases for similar price range and was really impressed with the design on them for the money.


----------



## Sakkura

The Define R5 is around the top end of what I'd like to spend. In the US that's around $100-120 I guess.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sakkura*
> 
> The Define R5 is around the top end of what I'd like to spend. In the US that's around $100-120 I guess.


Your on the right track with the Fractal cases. I like the Fractal 2300 i built my wifes machine in one. I like it more than I like the Corsair 400R Im running. Not that all my stuff would fit in it that particular case, but Fractals designs are great for hiding cables, moving air and adding drives. Only bad thing about the 2300 is a single USB 3 and USB 2 port on front top with the standard mic and headphone ports. But that may be plenty for you and the price will be mid line. But I like the R5 as well if your wanting more function out of the case.


----------



## Sakkura

Yeah, I was looking to the more expensive models for some more convenience, like the bottom filter that slides out from the front, modular HDD trays, and SSD mounts behind the motherboard tray. Plus some noise dampening doesn't hurt.


----------



## MEC-777

@Sakkura - Check out the Fractal Define S. It's a bit less expensive than the R5 but has a much more open interior with better airflow (no 5.25 or 3.5 drive bays in the front). I see you have an optical drive though. If you can do away with that, the Define S might be your ticket.









Also, if possible, it's always better to have your GPU rad as an exhaust instead of intake. Yes, you might get a few degrees cooler on the GPU core by having it as an intake, but IMO that's not worth making everything else inside the case warmer as a result.


----------



## Sakkura

Not sure what I'd do about fan control though. I can ditch the optical drive, I think I just carried it over from my previous system when I built this one in 2012. Even in 2012 optical drives were a bit meh, now I really don't need it.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sakkura*
> 
> Not sure what I'd do about fan control though. I can ditch the optical drive, I think I just carried it over from my previous system when I built this one in 2012. Even in 2012 optical drives were a bit meh, now I really don't need it.


I still use optical drives a good bit. For work and for personal. As for fan control, consider perhaps a fan controller for a 5.25" bay. Would be easy enough to fabricate enough of a mount for it and still dump the cage. I rely heavy on my fan controllers. Currently using a Lamptron FC5-V2. Not in my build list yet but was able to replace both my Aerocool X-Vision controllers with the one. Sensors simplified and fans grouped better for my use. Price wasnt bad either. Lots of choices here as well.


----------



## MiNaH88869

Hi guys,

Fast question - Can I use kraken g10 with my GTX 980 G1 Gaming? What about VRM temps? I dont overclock the card but play games a lot ( bf4, arma3, h1z1 ). 3 other forums didnt get me any reply on this. I know that probably the answer is somewhere back, but go thru 500+ pages... Thanks for any input and sorry for bad english - still learning









Cheers!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiNaH88869*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Fast question - Can I use kraken g10 with my GTX 980 G1 Gaming? What about VRM temps? I dont overclock the card but play games a lot ( bf4, arma3, h1z1 ). 3 other forums didnt get me any reply on this. I know that probably the answer is somewhere back, but go thru 500+ pages... Thanks for any input and sorry for bad english - still learning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Gigabyte/GeForce_GTX_980_G1_Gaming/3.html

Looks like the VRM heatsink is built into the cooler on that GPU. You will need to add a heatsink to the VRMs. Other than that your ready to go on the G-10.


----------



## PJFT808

Who has more kraken's in one pc.


http://imgur.com/3vkqsXg

Lolz.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PJFT808*
> 
> Who has more kraken's in one pc.
> 
> http://imgur.com/3vkqsXg
> 
> Lolz.


If thats your rig, probably you. I had a time cramming two in my case with the cpu already having an H110


----------



## MiNaH88869

Hi Ultisym

Thanks for your reply. Im happy with that info! Do i really need vrm heatsink if I will not overclock that card? I saw few ppl saying that its only needed when overvolting gpu, otherwise not necesery. If I need them can u give me some examples of that vrm heatsinks? Im from Poland so its hard to find anything else but vram heatsinks. Any brand name or model will be fine. I will try to find it here coz shipment from usa is like 30usd which is ten times more than heatsink price...

Thanks again!


----------



## Sakkura

Hmm, I think I'll have to mull over the Define R5 vs. Define S thing a little longer. Decisions, decisions...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PJFT808*
> 
> Who has more kraken's in one pc.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/3vkqsXg
> 
> 
> 
> Lolz.


That really lives up to the Kraken name, with all those tentacles.


----------



## SargentHorse

I did not get the opportunity to read all 170 pages, but are there any specific VRM/VRAM heatsinks that you would recommend for a GTX 970? Also, is the stock 92mm suffiecent or would you recommend upgrading to a noctua?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> I did not get the opportunity to read all 170 pages, but are there any specific VRM/VRAM heatsinks that you would recommend for a GTX 970? Also, is the stock 92mm suffiecent or would you recommend upgrading to a noctua?


There are several heatsinks you can get for VRAM. People have the most luck with the aluminum ones staying on. Heatsinks on the VRAM are pretty much of no use unless you are planning on really pushing a memory OC. Even then most notice no contribution. That said, keeping electrical components cooler is always better. Just realize few do this.

The 92mm fan that comes with the G-10 is perfectly adequate assuming two things.
1 You need to make sure there is a heatsink on the VRMs after you remove the cooler. Not all GPUs have a heat sink connected directly to the PCB. If your GPU does not have a VRM heatsink built on to the PCB you will need to add one.

2 Some 970s have the VRMs on the front side of the GPU closer to the output than on the rear of the GPU where the G-10s 92mm fan is located. If this is the case, you will need to rig up some sort of cooling for the VRMS on the front of the GPU. This is really pretty easy.

Which 970 do you have? perhaps we can get you a more definitive answer.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> There are several heatsinks you can get for VRAM. People have the most luck with the aluminum ones staying on. Heatsinks on the VRAM are pretty much of no use unless you are planning on really pushing a memory OC. Even then most notice no contribution. That said, keeping electrical components cooler is always better. Just realize few do this.
> 
> The 92mm fan that comes with the G-10 is perfectly adequate assuming two things.
> 1 You need to make sure there is a heatsink on the VRMs after you remove the cooler. Not all GPUs have a heat sink connected directly to the PCB. If your GPU does not have a VRM heatsink built on to the PCB you will need to add one.
> 
> 2 Some 970s have the VRMs on the front side of the GPU closer to the output than on the rear of the GPU where the G-10s 92mm fan is located. If this is the case, you will need to rig up some sort of cooling for the VRMS on the front of the GPU. This is really pretty easy.
> 
> Which 970 do you have? perhaps we can get you a more definitive answer.


I have a GTX 970 SSC. I have a 200mm side fan on my Phantom 820 and I can angle a 140mm to directly face my GFX card. I would use thermal tape to attach it yes?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> I have a GTX 970 SSC. I have a 200mm side fan on my Phantom 820 and I can angle a 140mm to directly face my GFX card. I would use thermal tape to attach it yes?


Is this your GPU?

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2015/05/08/evga-geforce-gtx-970-ssc-acx-2-0-review/1

http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2015/05/evga-geforce-gtx-970-ssc-acx-2-0-review/evga970ssc-11b.jpg


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Is this your GPU?
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2015/05/08/evga-geforce-gtx-970-ssc-acx-2-0-review/1
> 
> http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2015/05/evga-geforce-gtx-970-ssc-acx-2-0-review/evga970ssc-11b.jpg


That appears to be it.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> That appears to be it.


The midplate actually helps spread that heat out so I think you will be ok doing it the way you mentioned. Make sure there is plenty of air blowing over that part of the midplate covering the VRMs. Additionally, with the midplate you may need a shim to clear the midplate and get a solid connection between the chip and the pump cold plate. They are cheap as well.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

What would be the best option price/performance wise to install with G10-s I see X41 is very popular here, or is there a better option now ?


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The midplate actually helps spread that heat out so I think you will be ok doing it the way you mentioned. Make sure there is plenty of air blowing over that part of the midplate covering the VRMs. Additionally, with the midplate you may need a shim to clear the midplate and get a solid connection between the chip and the pump cold plate. They are cheap as well.


Does the midplate act as an additional heatsink, or is it just purely for support? Is it still possible to mount heatsinks with the midplate on? If so, might you recommend some heatsinks and a shim? I am considering switching to a Gigabyte Xtreme edition, would this be a wise choice? Sorry for all the questions, I am just getting my system where it is settled and I can be happy for another year. I am also considering the mount and backplate from richie, any advice or ideas about his product vs the G10?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> What would be the best option price/performance wise to install with G10-s I see X41 is very popular here, or is there a better option now ?


The larger radiators usually do better but its not a large margin in this application. People get great results from even the the simplest AIO kits. So its really up to your budget and personal preference. One of the favorites here is the Corsair H-55 which is a 120mm setup that is pretty cheap and even available refurbished a lot of the times if you want something really cheap. The X41 is a 140mm radiator kit and that will get you maybe a couple C cooler than the 120mm radiator kits. Its a good choice. The larger kits may get you another 4 to 6C in reduced temp. If your into bells and whistles you can get more expensive kits that may have better fans or maybe just more functionality like the Corsair I series AIOs which has a fan controller, led and other software features.

One thing to consider is that if your sensitive to noise you may want to get better fans. While adequate for the job, none of the AIO kits will come with what you would consider "quiet" fans. The noise isnt bad to me from any of the kits ive used or installed but I am not sensitive to it either. It drives some insane.


----------



## Strangorth

Well my G10 is up and running a beaut atm, can't fault those temps either! Bit of cable tidying to do and a case mod i plan on implementing but otherwise very happy!


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strangorth*
> 
> Well my G10 is up and running a beaut atm, can't fault those temps either! Bit of cable tidying to do and a case mod i plan on implementing but otherwise very happy!


The jealousy runs rampant as I see a 980ti







is that the white version? I would get that but you can't really see the card in a 820 so black is more discreet.


----------



## Strangorth

Haha no it's the red one actually to match the case and whatnot, not a great pic tbh. Very happy with the results so far though, peaking at 46-47c under heavy gaming!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

My darned 970 is hitting 80c @ +1.275v & 1500 core 7500 memory, I think I really should slap a kraken on it, if nothing else id like some silence the GTX 970 from MSI gaming series aint loud but silence is better.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> My darned 970 is hitting 80c @ +1.275v & 1500 core 7500 memory, I think I really should slap a kraken on it, if nothing else id like some silence the GTX 970 from MSI gaming series aint loud but silence is better.


It will certainly get you lower temps. Most of these AIOs however dont have "quiet" fans but they should be more quiet than the fans on the GPU. Plus you can always buy quieter fans as well.


----------



## SargentHorse

Is the X61 fan splitter PWM or 3 pin?


----------



## MiNaH88869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> Is the X61 fan splitter PWM or 3 pin?


You have spliter comming from the pump and its 4 x 4pin

I allready installed g10 on my gigabyte gtx 980 g1 gaming. It wasnt easy. Few notes:

1. If u want to leave stock backplate you cant use nzxt backplate.
2. If u using corsair h75 u will have to put the screws "from" the bracklet "to" the backplate because of h75 pump its impossible to put it "normal" way.
3. At the moment im not using any heatsinks on ram and vrm and temps on vrm are about 60-70C under battlefield 4, never going higher.
4. I recomend to leave stock backplate as the card is bending without it.

Im happy with my temps - core went from 65-70 to 45 max.
..





By the way i have one more question. Is there any way to control kraken x61 pump? I have it plugged to the psu thru molex to 4x3pin adapter. But it wount run full speed an CAM software controls it. I like CAM for my fans so i would like to keep it, but it seems that cam will always override the pump settings? Any suggestion?


----------



## vasyltheonly

Hey G10 owners. So I kinda have a crazy idea here. I have a XSPC raystorm cpu waterblock, I am thinking of slapping one of these on my 980ti strix and putting the cpu block on it instead of a AIO. "Why would you do that?" you say, why the hell not? It's a far cheaper option than purchasing a EK Waterblock for $200. Anyway, what are the dimensions of the hole that are in the G10? I think if I use the backplate that is withing the kraken and if the holes on the cpu block fit, I might give it a try. Thanks for any help.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> Hey G10 owners. So I kinda have a crazy idea here. I have a XSPC raystorm cpu waterblock, I am thinking of slapping one of these on my 980ti strix and putting the cpu block on it instead of a AIO. "Why would you do that?" you say, why the hell not? It's a far cheaper option than purchasing a EK Waterblock for $200. Anyway, what are the dimensions of the hole that are in the G10? I think if I use the backplate that is withing the kraken and if the holes on the cpu block fit, I might give it a try. Thanks for any help.


Im trying to envision what you are trying to do. How about posting up some pictures of the pump and coldplate.


----------



## IsaacM

Hello G10 Owners I've been searching through your thread and others and can't find the answer to my question. So, here goes: Has anyone successfully mounted the G10 onto a Sapphire 390X Tri-X?


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im trying to envision what you are trying to do. How about posting up some pictures of the pump and coldplate.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> Hey G10 owners. So I kinda have a crazy idea here. I have a XSPC raystorm cpu waterblock, I am thinking of slapping one of these on my 980ti strix and putting the cpu block on it instead of a AIO. "Why would you do that?" you say, why the hell not? It's a far cheaper option than purchasing a EK Waterblock for $200. Anyway, what are the dimensions of the hole that are in the G10? I think if I use the backplate that is withing the kraken and if the holes on the cpu block fit, I might give it a try. Thanks for any help.


It sounds like he is adding this to a custom loop. If that's the case, why not just throw a full card block on there and add it to your loop?


----------



## SargentHorse

T
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IsaacM*
> 
> Hello G10 Owners I've been searching through your thread and others and can't find the answer to my question. So, here goes: Has anyone successfully mounted the G10 onto a Sapphire 390X Tri-X?


Try this. https://m.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/3qdpzy/i_did_it_i_successfully_installed_the_kraken_g10/


----------



## IsaacM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> T
> Try this. https://m.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/3qdpzy/i_did_it_i_successfully_installed_the_kraken_g10/


I saw that, I don't know that the MSI and Sapphire 390X have the same PCB layout or if that matters?


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IsaacM*
> 
> I saw that, I don't know that the MSI and Sapphire 390X have the same PCB layout or if that matters?


Try these guys. http://www.overclock.net/t/1561704/official-amd-r9-390-390x-owners-club Alpha cool has some semi cover blocks with passive VRM cooling if you don't already have a pump and want to try that. I like the G10 with VRM heatsinks better personally.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiNaH88869*
> 
> You have spliter comming from the pump and its 4 x 4pin
> 
> I allready installed g10 on my gigabyte gtx 980 g1 gaming. It wasnt easy. Few notes:
> 
> 1. If u want to leave stock backplate you cant use nzxt backplate.
> 2. If u using corsair h75 u will have to put the screws "from" the bracklet "to" the backplate because of h75 pump its impossible to put it "normal" way.
> 3. At the moment im not using any heatsinks on ram and vrm and temps on vrm are about 60-70C under battlefield 4, never going higher.
> 4. I recomend to leave stock backplate as the card is bending without it.
> 
> Im happy with my temps - core went from 65-70 to 45 max.
> ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way i have one more question. Is there any way to control kraken x61 pump? I have it plugged to the psu thru molex to 4x3pin adapter. But it wount run full speed an CAM software controls it. I like CAM for my fans so i would like to keep it, but it seems that cam will always override the pump settings? Any suggestion?


Plug the 3 pin pump header into the MOBO header instead of a Molex so the MOBO can manage the power possibly.


----------



## MiNaH88869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> Plug the 3 pin pump header into the MOBO header instead of a Molex so the MOBO can manage the power possibly.


I did it before and CAM was controling the pump with fans - If i put pump at 100%, the fans go to 100% as well. What I want to achive is pump at 100% and fans to be controled by CAM software. I think the only way is to put those fans ( kraken x61 and corsair h75 ) on fan controller and then control pumps with CAM software. Its strange that even using molex - 4pin doesnt get me constant 12v as CAM will put the pumps to fans speed.

Anyone ?

ps. Sorry for bad english - still learning


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiNaH88869*
> 
> I did it before and CAM was controling the pump with fans - If i put pump at 100%, the fans go to 100% as well. What I want to achive is pump at 100% and fans to be controled by CAM software. I think the only way is to put those fans ( kraken x61 and corsair h75 ) on fan controller and then control pumps with CAM software. Its strange that even using molex - 4pin doesnt get me constant 12v as CAM will put the pumps to fans speed.
> 
> Anyone ?
> 
> ps. Sorry for bad english - still learning


What I did was run the pumps only off of 12v molex - 3pin adapter from the PSU and all case/rad fans were powered by motherboard headers and controlled with a program called Speedfan. This allowed the pumps to run at constant 12v and the GPU rad fans to be controlled individually (by header) and according to GPU temps only (with a custom fan curve).

CAM is too restrictive and limited, IMO.


----------



## MiNaH88869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> What I did was run the pumps only off of 12v molex - 3pin adapter from the PSU and all case/rad fans were powered by motherboard headers and controlled with a program called Speedfan. This allowed the pumps to run at constant 12v and the GPU rad fans to be controlled individually (by header) and according to GPU temps only (with a custom fan curve).
> 
> CAM is too restrictive and limited, IMO.


Thanks for that. I know speedfan and its sad that you cant really controll fans and pump separatly from CAM software. Nzxt should allow that. So im stuck with either use fan controller or fanspeed program. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Spartoi

Can someone with a H90 or X41 installed on a overclocked 290/x or 390/x tell me what their core temps are? Additionally, what is the fan running at (RPM) and how high is your overclock? Thanks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiNaH88869*
> 
> Thanks for that. I know speedfan and its sad that you cant really controll fans and pump separatly from CAM software. Nzxt should allow that. So im stuck with either use fan controller or fanspeed program. Thanks for your help.


Im all for running fan controllers to dial the system in but I still recommend running the pumps at full 12V as MEC-777 suggested.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im all for running fan controllers to dial the system in but I still recommend running the pumps at full 12V as MEC-777 suggested.


Can't you just ramp it up to 100% in CAM? If not, then thank god for my single rail PSU, got that full 12v output.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> Can't you just ramp it up to 100% in CAM? If not, then thank god for my single rail PSU, got that full 12v output.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*


Honestly, I have never played with CAM. The only point I am making is it is important to make sure the pump has full power.


----------



## Darkknight2912

Sorry if this was asked previously, but I wasn't able to find this graphics card compatibly in the thread.

I recently built a gaming pc and have an asus 5170A mother board and i am running two msi 970 cards in sli. Under a full load the main card is running at about 80C. i wanted to add a water cooler to this card so that i could lower the temp and possibly oc. WIll the KrackeN G10 work with this card and will i need any additional parts/fans?

here us a link to the cards that I own.

http://www.amazon.com/MSI-GTX-970-4GD5T-OC/dp/B00NN0GIA0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1454387411&sr=8-9&keywords=msi+970+gaming

thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkknight2912*
> 
> Sorry if this was asked previously, but I wasn't able to find this graphics card compatibly in the thread.
> 
> I recently built a gaming pc and have an asus 5170A mother board and i am running two msi 970 cards in sli. Under a full load the main card is running at about 80C. i wanted to add a water cooler to this card so that i could lower the temp and possibly oc. WIll the KrackeN G10 work with this card and will i need any additional parts/fans?
> 
> here us a link to the cards that I own.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/MSI-GTX-970-4GD5T-OC/dp/B00NN0GIA0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1454387411&sr=8-9&keywords=msi+970+gaming
> 
> thanks in advance for the help.


MSI Twin Frozr cards have a midplate to cool the VRMs, so you should be all set with just the standard g10 kit.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> MSI Twin Frozr cards have a midplate to cool the VRMs, so you should be all set with just the standard g10 kit.


If it has a midplate, won't he need a shim? My EVGA SSC needs a shim because of the midplate.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> If it has a midplate, won't he need a shim? My EVGA SSC needs a shim because of the midplate.


MSI uses a different midplate design than EVGA that doesn't have the four 'arms' going out toward the chip, so the heatplate gets clean contact without a shim.


----------



## DR4G00N

I decided to do what @MiNaH88869 did and put a backplate on my card since I had one sitting around. Looks pretty nice and It cools the ram chips too.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> Can't you just ramp it up to 100% in CAM? If not, then thank god for my single rail PSU, got that full 12v output.


You can do that if you want. It's certainly an option. The reason I ran my pumps (3 of them at the time) directly off the PSU with 12v molex adapters is;

1) to be sure they were getting 12v at all times and
2) to leave as many motherboard fan headers free to control all the fans I had in the system


----------



## Darkknight2912

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered the g10. hoping that it will work easily.


----------



## MiNaH88869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I decided to do what @MiNaH88869 did and put a backplate on my card since I had one sitting around. Looks pretty nice and It cools the ram chips too.


Glad that I could help








"ONE DONE - ONE TO GO"







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> You can do that if you want. It's certainly an option. The reason I ran my pumps (3 of them at the time) directly off the PSU with 12v molex adapters is;
> 
> 1) to be sure they were getting 12v at all times and
> 2) to leave as many motherboard fan headers free to control all the fans I had in the system


You see the problem is that if I use CAM to controll fans it will slow down pump as well even if its connected to full v12 thru molex to 3 pin adapter. Its like CAM override pump with his settings. I allready ordered Nzxt sentry mix 2 for all those fans ( yes, sentry have 4 pin connectors and 30W per channel ) as if I use motherboard headers u have fans running full speed at system start and running like this till speedfan opens. Now I will connect all to fan controller and set fans manually to 30% / 60% / 90% if needed and thru CAM I will ramp up both pumps to run 100% as im not sure if pump will run at full speed without CAM but I think yes coz there will be no software to overrite this setting. What do u guys think?


----------



## markob53

I have a question guys.

I currently have the NZXT Kraken G10 and Corsair H55 attached to my 780Ti, don't see temps higher than 57c which i'm happy with, don't think i can get it any lower.

Anyways, sometime this year i plan on updating my graphics card and i've noticed you can already get 980Ti's with AIO coolers built into them, my question is are these as good as custom modding a G10 onto the card? Would certainly be easier to buy it ready to go. Just checking for the future.

Thanks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> I have a question guys.
> 
> I currently have the NZXT Kraken G10 and Corsair H55 attached to my 780Ti, don't see temps higher than 57c which i'm happy with, don't think i can get it any lower.
> 
> Anyways, sometime this year i plan on updating my graphics card and i've noticed you can already get 980Ti's with AIO coolers built into them, my question is are these as good as custom modding a G10 onto the card? Would certainly be easier to buy it ready to go. Just checking for the future.
> 
> Thanks.


To me an AIO is an AIO. Im sure they are decent units. So get what you want. Again the beauty to me isnt so much that AIOs are that great at cooling, its that they are great at dumping heat out of the case. That OEMs have recognized this is good and it will allow for better future performance. Just my opinion.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

One reason i like g10 is i get the chance to tinker and do it myself that's the fun part.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> To me an AIO is an AIO. Im sure they are decent units. So get what you want. Again the beauty to me isnt so much that AIOs are that great at cooling, its that they are great at dumping heat out of the case. That OEMs have recognized this is good and it will allow for better future performance. Just my opinion.


True, rather than dumping the heat into the case it dumps it out of the case.

I think i'll prob go with a ready modded option in future, so long as the reviews are good. Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> One reason i like g10 is i get the chance to tinker and do it myself that's the fun part.


I guess it is fun to do but the primary reason for me is lower temps, so being able to plug and play and have low temps straight away is more convenient for me personally than having to spend time tinkering and potentially remounting etc.

This seems like one of the best options for the 980Ti now.
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/6gb-evga-gtx-980-ti-hybrid-gaming-pcie-30-7010mhz-gddr5-gpu-1140mhz-boost-1228mhz-cores-2816-3x-dp-h

The only thing that would maybe worry me is how quiet is the fan cooling the VRMS, the one with the G10 is pretty silent.


----------



## MadjinnSayan

Is it possible to use the seidon 120v or aquachanger 120/240 on the g10 ?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadjinnSayan*
> 
> Is it possible to use the seidon 120v or aquachanger 120/240 on the g10 ?


Nope, it has to have a round asetek style pump/block.
like this:


----------



## MadjinnSayan

Ok


----------



## Spartoi

I was wondering how you guys who also have a CPU AIO have the air directed in your case? I have an H440 and was thinking of using this layout:


----------



## MiNaH88869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoi*
> 
> I was wondering how you guys who also have a CPU AIO have the air directed in your case? I have an H440 and was thinking of using this layout:


You shouldnt use aio radiators as intake. Put corsair on top and nzxt on the back as exhaust. Slow down radiator fans and put both intake fans as high as u can ( not makeing them too loud ) to make possitive preasure. That should be the best option considering cold airflow in your case.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoi*
> 
> I was wondering how you guys who also have a CPU AIO have the air directed in your case? I have an H440 and was thinking of using this layout:


My H110 on my CPU is on intake. It works best in this manner and I get the best temperatures with it setup this way. The GPUs put off a lot more heat and they are dumped straight out of the case.

My air circuit is as follows. Obviously, what is ideal for one case may not be for the next.


----------



## MiNaH88869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> My H110 on my CPU is on intake. It works best in this manner and I get the best temperatures with it setup this way. The GPUs put off a lot more heat and they are dumped straight out of the case.
> 
> My air circuit is as follows. Obviously, what is ideal for one case may not be for the next.


I can agree on that. For me best temps are with both 120 and 280 rads as exhaust and 2 noctua 140 with zalman 200mm as intake ( zalman h1 case ). My psu takes and put out air separatly. Most impprtant is possitive preasure IMO. Correct me if im wrong?

Btw. I have installed my nzxt sentry mix 2 and have kraken x61 pump running at 100% with corsair h75 attached to it also running at 100%. My fans runs at 40% ( lowest rpm possible with this controller ) and temps went down by 3-4 degrees settling at 25C on cpu and gpu when idle ( 20C in the room atm ), and 40C cpu, 41 gpu at heavy gaming for few hours ( even when room temp is around 26 ).


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiNaH88869*
> 
> I can agree on that. For me best temps are with both 120 and 280 rads as exhaust and 2 noctua 140 with zalman 200mm as intake ( zalman h1 case ). My psu takes and put out air separatly. Most impprtant is possitive preasure IMO. Correct me if im wrong?
> 
> Btw. I have installed my nzxt sentry mix 2 and have kraken x61 pump running at 100% with corsair h75 attached to it also running at 100%. My fans runs at 40% ( lowest rpm possible with this controller ) and temps went down by 3-4 degrees settling at 25C on cpu and gpu when idle ( 20C in the room atm ), and 40C cpu, 41 gpu at heavy gaming for few hours ( even when room temp is around 26 ).


I couldnt agree more on the positive pressure issue. Not only does the air circuit usually do better, if you place filters over the intake fans it controls the vast vast majority of the dust which is just as important. The settings for each system fan wise will always vary some, thats just the way it is. No one size ever fits everyone. But the means to control the fans allow optimization and thats key to me. I run a pair of lamptron controllers now and love them but I also had a NZXT sentry and it did the job just fine. Its still in use on another rig.


----------



## SargentHorse

Would you rather have a X61 as an intake or an X41 as an exhaust?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> Would you rather have a X61 as an intake or an X41 as an exhaust?


It totally depends on the air circuit you end up with in your case. Take a look at the examples above and see what you come up with for your case. As i mentioned, I get my best temps with the H-110 280mm radiator cooling my CPU set to intake pulling in cool air from the outside and increasing the positive pressure in the case. I also added 2 140mm fans to the front of the case to again add flow and positive pressure. I have a single fan on the rear to exhaust hot air from the vrms and I have both the 140mm radiators cooling the GTX 980s exhausting the heat from the GPUs directly out of the case. However as with everything else, there just isnt a one size fits all, but I still feel strongly about always dumping the gpu heat straight out of the case. I do use fan controllers to tune the flow as desired.


----------



## Spartoi

Edit:

Nvm.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoi*
> 
> Can someone with a H90 or X41 installed on a overclocked 290/x or 390/x tell me what their core temps are? Additionally, what is the fan running at (RPM) and how high is your overclock? Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoi*
> 
> Can someone with a H90 or X41 installed on a overclocked 290/x or 390/x tell me what their core temps are? Additionally, what is the fan running at (RPM) and how high is your overclock? Thanks.


I have a crossfire 290 setup, with each one using an x41. I use noctua fans on the x41 and delta fans to cool vrm.

Here are my idle temps:










Full load temps showing MAX temps:


That is at stock volts. I do overvolt for higher overclocks, and it only raises core temps by 4 degrees.

The image only shows my primary gpu; the 2nd gpu runs 7c cooler on full load.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> I have a crossfire 290 setup, with each one using an x41. I use noctua fans on the x41 and delta fans to cool vrm.
> 
> Here are my idle temps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full load temps showing MAX temps:
> 
> 
> That is at stock volts. I do overvolt for higher overclocks, and it only raises core temps by 4 degrees.
> 
> The image only shows my primary gpu; the 2nd gpu runs 7c cooler on full load.


Just dont tell all the hardcore its got to be a custom loop group. The fact that our numbers are as good or in some cases better than theirs really pisses them off.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Will this work with g10?

https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/liquid-freezer-240.html

Seems like Asetek pump to me. Need to swap out Asus 280x Direct Cu II cooler for something better.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Just dont tell all the hardcore its got to be a custom loop group. The fact that our numbers are as good or in some cases better than theirs really pisses them off.


No, we don't get the same temps as they do, they get at least 4 degrees cooler for 2-3x the price, our solution obviously just doesn't make sense!


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre3d*
> 
> Has anyone here had issues with high temps on their r9 290 + H55 setups? I am certainly no rookie to thermal paste application or cooler mounting but I can't seem to get this thing to cooperate no matter what I do. I am running the pump wired directly to the power supply with 2x gentle typhoon AP-15 fans (1850rpm) in push/pull with the cooler mounted on the back of the case. I have the stock MSI backplate still on the card and extra VRAM heatsinks but the card reaches 94-95C within a minute of being in-game when playing fallout4 and similar games. This causes it to throttle of course, resulting in a pretty inconsistent experience.
> 
> I have remounted the cooler 5x now, trying varying levels of pressure and ensuring adequate thermal paste distribution to no avail. I finally got frustrated and tried an old Antec Kuhler 620 that I had mounted to another video card and lo and behold -- temperatures are down to 65C under full load with an identical configuration.
> 
> I played with the H55 pump outside the case attached to a spare power supply a bit to see if there was any odd vibration or visible lack of flow but as far as I can tell, nothing seems to be out of the norm. I am wondering if this is something I should be contacting corsair about or if someone else has experience similar issues and could provide insight. I attached some pictures of the thermal paste application/spread for the inevitable doubters


I had high temps on one of my cards when I first installed the kraken. I found out it was due to uneven tightening of the screws, and not screwing them down enough. It is worse if it is uneven, as opposed to not tight enough.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> I had high temps on one of my cards when I first installed the kraken. I found out it was due to uneven tightening of the screws, and not screwing them down enough. It is worse if it is uneven, as opposed to not tight enough.


Your contact pattern looks fine. Its actually quite rare to get a defective AIO/CLC despite what the people who despise them would have you think. But it does of course happen I think thats where your at here. Your doing everything right it appears, the AIO just isnt getting it done.I think I would RMA this with corsair. They are pretty good about taking care of business.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> No, we don't get the same temps as they do, they get at least 4 degrees cooler for 2-3x the price, our solution obviously just doesn't make sense!


Im honestly not trying to knock the custom loop guys. Ive built several loops. They work great but their flat out denial that AIOs serve this purpose and serve it well is mind boggling to me. They also attack their reliability and that is a load of crap to.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im honestly not trying to knock the custom loop guys. Ive built several loops. They work great but their flat out denial that AIOs serve this purpose and serve it well is mind boggling to me. They also attack their reliability and that is a load of crap to.


If I had the funds, I would do custom as it is definetly a fun hobby, but AIO'S are easy to use and still do quite an impressive job.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> If I had the funds, I would do custom as it is definetly a fun hobby, but AIO'S are easy to use and still do quite an impressive job.


I agree... My point has always been simply that they have their place. They arent the best coolers but they are certainly quite functional. The learning curve for a newbie to jump in and modify his or her gpu for much higher performance and much lower temperatures is quite small. The price isnt bad, the parts are readily available and there is absolutely zero maintenance with them. I simply quit fooling with custom loops a while back because I do not push my equipment to ridiculous points anymore and have a severe lack of time these days making the zero maintenance plug and play aspect quite appealing. It just kind of morphed into this for me and a couple others helping out in there. Or at least I hope were helping out. Im not an elitist by any means, I have built about anything you can imagine, not necessarily with my money. I think this mod helps a lot of folks get their gpu where they want them to be without the need for a full loop. That extra 3 or 4 C isnt going to make the difference for anyone in a game scenario.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Looking to put a G10+Thermaltake Performner C on my MSI GTX 760 Hawk. Now I know it is possible to fit the G10 on a 760 but is it possible to do so on a Hawk without removing the VRM and Memory baseplate? Can anyone with experience chime in? Thanks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Looking to put a G10+Thermaltake Performner C on my MSI GTX 760 Hawk. Now I know it is possible to fit the G10 on a 760 but is it possible to do so on a Hawk without removing the VRM and Memory baseplate? Can anyone with experience chime in? Thanks.


Got any pics or a link to the GPU with the cooler taken off?


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Got any pics or a link to the GPU with the cooler taken off?


i do here


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> i do here


I would definitely keep the midplate. You need to check if the surface of the die sits lower than the surface of the midplate. If so a simple shim will do the job. They are cheap and readily available.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I would definitely keep the midplate. You need to check if the surface of the die sits lower than the surface of the midplate. If so a simple shim will do the job. They are cheap and readily available.


So in theory then it should work with the midplate? The die does sit a bit lower than the midplate though.


----------



## naldo

Does this product work with the R9 Fury card?


----------



## vasyltheonly

I bought the g10 and before I install it this weekend, can you guys recommend me some vrm heat sink and memory heat sinks for my card. Below is the picture of the PCB.
http://i58.tinypic.com/16bloao.jpg


----------



## vasyltheonly

Just wanted to share my g10 results. Could not be happier. What I did is attach an old Thermaltake 760 Plus cpu water block going diagonally across the die. The way the block is, it is tightened though a middle piece on each side which tightens all 4 sides. The last picture are my temps after 1 hour of gaming. My gpu die used to be at 75-78C and vrm temps at around 70-72C, now they are at this. Cannot be freaking happier. Just need to paint the red part on my gpu and its perfect. Paid $30 for the g10 block, and get similar performance of a custom block. Either way, temps are way lower and so much quieter than the strix cooler. 10/10 for this thing.

Pics of the set up--http://imgur.com/a/5q7ec
Pic of the waterblock--http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/db/imgs/pdt/angle/CLW0211_b615d54981a74cc18cd1a1e9b09ffe7c.jpg


----------



## walrusmonarch

Just put G10 and Kraken x41 on my two Gigabyte 970 G1. Works pretty well. My gpu core temps went from ~75-80 C to ~45-50 C. Pretty happy with them, and finally it is quiet...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> Just wanted to share my g10 results. Could not be happier. What I did is attach an old Thermaltake 760 Plus cpu water block going diagonally across the die. The way the block is, it is tightened though a middle piece on each side which tightens all 4 sides. The last picture are my temps after 1 hour of gaming. My gpu die used to be at 75-78C and vrm temps at around 70-72C, now they are at this. Cannot be freaking happier. Just need to paint the red part on my gpu and its perfect. Paid $30 for the g10 block, and get similar performance of a custom block. Either way, temps are way lower and so much quieter than the strix cooler. 10/10 for this thing.
> 
> Pics of the set up--http://imgur.com/a/5q7ec
> Pic of the waterblock--http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/db/imgs/pdt/angle/CLW0211_b615d54981a74cc18cd1a1e9b09ffe7c.jpg


Get some cable combs, I wish I could use them, but I have a evga PSU and they aren't individually sleeved and I don't have the time to do it right now.http://www.moddiy.com/products/Professional-Single-Sleeved-Cable-Wire-Clear-Comb-(4-to-24-Slots).html They come in clear too!


----------



## vasyltheonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> Get some cable combs, I wish I could use them, but I have a evga PSU and they aren't individually sleeved and I don't have the time to do it right now.http://www.moddiy.com/products/Professional-Single-Sleeved-Cable-Wire-Clear-Comb-(4-to-24-Slots).html They come in clear too!


Seeing how cheap those are, I might have to. K tried by best in securing those cables. But will definitely give those a try.


----------



## Unbreakablez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walrusmonarch*
> 
> Just put G10 and Kraken x41 on my two Gigabyte 970 G1. Works pretty well. My gpu core temps went from ~75-80 C to ~45-50 C. Pretty happy with them, and finally it is quiet...


I see you using two NZXT X41's. That is the set up I'm hoping to go for as well.

How are you controlling the pump speed on those things? If I'm correct, the only way to control the pump speed is to use the CAM software but that requires plugging in the pump USB cable to a free USB header on the motherboard.
My motherboard (ASUS Z170 HERO) only has one USB header...
Did you get an internal adaptor or are you just plugging one of them in each time?

Thanks.


----------



## skkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unbreakablez*
> 
> I see you using two NZXT X41's. That is the set up I'm hoping to go for as well.
> 
> How are you controlling the pump speed on those things? If I'm correct, the only way to control the pump speed is to use the CAM software but that requires plugging in the pump USB cable to a free USB header on the motherboard.
> My motherboard (ASUS Z170 HERO) only has one USB header...
> Did you get an internal adaptor or are you just plugging one of them in each time?
> 
> Thanks.


NZXT also sells a usb extender, forgot what it's called, you plug it into one of you mobo's usb 2.0 ports and it gives you 3 aditional 2.0 ports to use on their card thingy.

I use it with 2 x41's also as my X99sabertooth doesn't have enough 2.0 ports. Works great.

https://www.nzxt.com/products/iu01-USB-Expansion


----------



## walrusmonarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> NZXT also sells a usb extender, forgot what it's called, you plug it into one of you mobo's usb 2.0 ports and it gives you 3 aditional 2.0 ports to use on their card thingy.
> 
> I use it with 2 x41's also as my X99sabertooth doesn't have enough 2.0 ports. Works great.
> 
> https://www.nzxt.com/products/iu01-USB-Expansion


Yep, this is what I used as well. Works perfectly.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Installed my g10 last night on my gtx 780 lightning. Temps went from 70 celcius when gaming to NEVER over 35 Celcius. This is at 70% fan speed. My overclock is currently 1306mhz with 1.212 volts:thumb:





Lemme know what you guys think!


----------



## ironcurtains

hey guys, I have a bit of an odd situation and am hoping someone could help me with this.

I installed the kraken G10 on my EVGA GTX 780 SCthe other day. I used an antec khueler 620 and everything was installed and good to go.

Well long story short, my graphics card sort of just stopped working. When Windows would boot up, the second windows went to go into 1080p, the display would shut off. The only time I could get video was when I uninstalled the Nvidia drivers and ran at the default resolution.

I thought my card was ****ed up because we spent days trying to fix it. Then I realized the only thing that had changed from my previous case to my new one was that I had taken the stock cooler off.

Well, lo and behold, when I uninstalled the kraken, and reinstalled the stock cooling unit onto the graphics card, everything started working normally again.

I tried to search about this issue but only found some vague answers. I noticed there is a 3 pin connection that goes from the cooler to the graphics card, and when it is removed I unplugged it... and I am wondering if this had something to do with the kraken not working (since nothing was plugged in there).

I would really really love to get the G10 working and everything, so I am hoping that someone has some insight on this issue. Thanks guys!


----------



## walrusmonarch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironcurtains*
> 
> hey guys, I have a bit of an odd situation and am hoping someone could help me with this.
> 
> I installed the kraken G10 on my EVGA GTX 780 SCthe other day. I used an antec khueler 620 and everything was installed and good to go.
> 
> Well long story short, my graphics card sort of just stopped working. When Windows would boot up, the second windows went to go into 1080p, the display would shut off. The only time I could get video was when I uninstalled the Nvidia drivers and ran at the default resolution.
> 
> I thought my card was ****ed up because we spent days trying to fix it. Then I realized the only thing that had changed from my previous case to my new one was that I had taken the stock cooler off.
> 
> Well, lo and behold, when I uninstalled the kraken, and reinstalled the stock cooling unit onto the graphics card, everything started working normally again.
> 
> I tried to search about this issue but only found some vague answers. I noticed there is a 3 pin connection that goes from the cooler to the graphics card, and when it is removed I unplugged it... and I am wondering if this had something to do with the kraken not working (since nothing was plugged in there).
> 
> I would really really love to get the G10 working and everything, so I am hoping that someone has some insight on this issue. Thanks guys!


I don't think it makes a difference if the fan header on the GPU is left unplugged. At least, I don't have any issues doing that on my G1 970's. Was the 620 seated properly on the GPU die? Did you check core temperature after booting into the OS?


----------



## Ultisym

I have never run into this before on any of the Krakens I have installed for myself and others. The on board fan header is rarely used by me anyway. Thats not to say that the card vendor could not have the bios setup to where if there is no signal from the fan header it wont boot, same as a no CPU fan scenario. If you are positive that you had all the power hooked up correctly. pump etc, you can download the bios off the gpu and open the file and see if you can figure out if this is the case. If it is then it should be easy enough to hard code the value and, well lie to it. But honestly I have never run into this on a GPU before.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I have never run into this before on any of the Krakens I have installed for myself and others. The on board fan header is rarely used by me anyway. Thats not to say that the card vendor could not have the bios setup to where if there is no signal from the fan header it wont boot, same as a no CPU fan scenario. If you are positive that you had all the power hooked up correctly. pump etc, you can download the bios off the gpu and open the file and see if you can figure out if this is the case. If it is then it should be easy enough to hard code the value and, well lie to it. But honestly I have never run into this on a GPU before.


Or buy a VGA 4pin adapter and plug in the 92mm to see if that works


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> Or buy a VGA 4pin adapter and plug in the 92mm to see if that works


If he can find a set, that will certainly work too. But if it is in the bios, changing the setting and re flashing is free.


----------



## ironcurtains

Hey guys thanks for the responses and suggestions... I do have one other question which I think may have been the problem.

So on the main CPU fan plugin on the motherboard I have my kraken x61 plugged in which is cooling my CPU obviously.

I realize now that I plugged the pump 3 pin into a SYSFAN slot on the motherboard... and I think it may have not been receiving enough power?

Its weird though because I could feel the water pumping through the unit ... But maybe that had something to do with it.

And in this case, I dont see another main fan slot on my motherboard. Only SYSFAN connectors.... what would be the best way to power it?

Also when I do go and try to reinstall it... should I have the fan pushing or pulling? And should the radiator be closest to the outside of the case, or should the fan be closest to the outside? I have an NZXT S340. and I have the kraken x61 mounted on the front fans (fans closest to the outside of case since the radiator does not fit the other way), and I have those 2 fans pushing. My rear fan is pushing as well, and my top fan is pulling. Hopefully you guys have some suggestions on the best airflow specifically in the S340


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironcurtains*
> 
> Hey guys thanks for the responses and suggestions... I do have one other question which I think may have been the problem.
> 
> So on the main CPU fan plugin on the motherboard I have my kraken x61 plugged in which is cooling my CPU obviously.
> 
> I realize now that I plugged the pump 3 pin into a SYSFAN slot on the motherboard... and I think it may have not been receiving enough power?
> 
> Its weird though because I could feel the water pumping through the unit ... But maybe that had something to do with it.
> 
> And in this case, I dont see another main fan slot on my motherboard. Only SYSFAN connectors.... what would be the best way to power it?
> 
> Also when I do go and try to reinstall it... should I have the fan pushing or pulling? And should the radiator be closest to the outside of the case, or should the fan be closest to the outside? I have an NZXT S340. and I have the kraken x61 mounted on the front fans (fans closest to the outside of case since the radiator does not fit the other way), and I have those 2 fans pushing. My rear fan is pushing as well, and my top fan is pulling. Hopefully you guys have some suggestions on the best airflow specifically in the S340


Molex to 3 pin is a good way to power it, ensures full 12v power if you put it in a 12v rail. I prefer pulling for intake or exhaust as it makes cleaning easier, especially for exhaust. Make sure to have your GPU cooler as exhaust, it throws out alot of heat.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironcurtains*
> 
> Hey guys thanks for the responses and suggestions... I do have one other question which I think may have been the problem.
> 
> So on the main CPU fan plugin on the motherboard I have my kraken x61 plugged in which is cooling my CPU obviously.
> 
> I realize now that I plugged the pump 3 pin into a SYSFAN slot on the motherboard... and I think it may have not been receiving enough power?
> 
> Its weird though because I could feel the water pumping through the unit ... But maybe that had something to do with it.
> 
> And in this case, I dont see another main fan slot on my motherboard. Only SYSFAN connectors.... what would be the best way to power it?
> 
> Also when I do go and try to reinstall it... should I have the fan pushing or pulling? And should the radiator be closest to the outside of the case, or should the fan be closest to the outside? I have an NZXT S340. and I have the kraken x61 mounted on the front fans (fans closest to the outside of case since the radiator does not fit the other way), and I have those 2 fans pushing. My rear fan is pushing as well, and my top fan is pulling. Hopefully you guys have some suggestions on the best airflow specifically in the S340


You can use the sysfan board header to power the pump, just go into the bios and make sure the header has full 12v available to it. You dont want it on silent or something like that. You can also use a molex plug to fan adapter to get 12V to the pump.

However the pump not getting full power is not going to stop the gpu from booting into windows. Whatever is causing your system not to boot into windows is probably related to the installation something like all the power pins not being plugged in good or the card securely mounted in the pcie slot or something of this nature most likely. BUT............... Another question has to be what all is in the system? What power supply are you running? A buggy or not enough PSU will also cause this issue. Take a minute and "put your rig in your sig" so we can see what all is there.

For AIOs mounted on the GPU I always recommend the fans for the radiator mounted to exhaust the heat out of the case. Watch all your temperatures and see how it affects the system as a whole before you decide on a final setup. My system actually gets the lowest temps with the H-110 on the CPU set to intake with the both the H-90s set to exhaust. Each system is different so try it both ways if you have any doubt.


----------



## ironcurtains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You can use the sysfan board header to power the pump, just go into the bios and make sure the header has full 12v available to it. You dont want it on silent or something like that. You can also use a molex plug to fan adapter to get 12V to the pump.
> 
> However the pump not getting full power is not going to stop the gpu from booting into windows. Whatever is causing your system not to boot into windows is probably related to the installation something like all the power pins not being plugged in good or the card securely mounted in the pcie slot or something of this nature most likely. BUT............... Another question has to be what all is in the system? What power supply are you running? A buggy or not enough PSU will also cause this issue. Take a minute and "put your rig in your sig" so we can see what all is there.
> 
> For AIOs mounted on the GPU I always recommend the fans for the radiator mounted to exhaust the heat out of the case. Watch all your temperatures and see how it affects the system as a whole before you decide on a final setup. My system actually gets the lowest temps with the H-110 on the CPU set to intake with the both the H-90s set to exhaust. Each system is different so try it both ways if you have any doubt.


So my PC is as follows:

i5-2500k running @ 4.2 GHz
MSI Z68A-GD65 (B3) Motherboard
8GB RAM
EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ 3GB VRAM
PSU is a Thermaltake it is either 750W or 850W, I cannot easily check because of my case
The case is the NZXT S340

The way I have the cooling setup is as follows: Front of the case has the Kraken X61 mounted on it. The Fans have to be attached to the case with the radiator in front of them 9closer to the inside), because of the design of the case. I have those two fans blowing air into the case through the radiator. I also have a rear mounted fan which is blowing air into the case, and a fan mounted at the top which is pulling air out of the case.

If you have any suggestions on better air flow let me know, and I really wanna try to get the kraken G10 working.... my 780 is running at around 75-80 degrees celcius on my new Acer XB271HU monitor (when playing games like GTA V and what not) and I would like to get it lower.

Edit: I found this forum post: https://forum.teksyndicate.com/t/no-video-after-kraken-g10-installation-solved/64007/16

it looks like the guy had a similar issue and it seemed that because the stock cooler was not plugged into the graphics card header, it would turn itself off (sort of like a fail safe).

Anyone have any ideas on how to get around this? other than soldering wires and everything.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironcurtains*
> 
> it looks like the guy had a similar issue and it seemed that because the stock cooler was not plugged into the graphics card header, it would turn itself off (sort of like a fail safe).
> 
> Anyone have any ideas on how to get around this? other than soldering wires and everything.


If thats the case then its coded in the bios and you may be able to download the GPU BIOS, deactivate the feature and then re flash the bios with the modified one. The other thing you can do is what Sargent suggested and get an adapter cable to connect the fan on the Kraken to the header on the GPU itself.


----------



## SoToPiRi

Hey guy, I just recently install a h55 on my msi gtx 980ti gaming 6gb and having 80oC underload. Anyone know what wrong? I have install, reinstall the cooler several time, having the pump running at full speed, push/pull rad, checking thermal paste. Is it because h55 cooler is not enough for the 980ti


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoToPiRi*
> 
> Hey guy, I just recently install a h55 on my msi gtx 980ti gaming 6gb and having 80oC underload. Anyone know what wrong? I have install, reinstall the cooler several time, having the pump running at full speed, push/pull rad, checking thermal paste. Is it because h55 cooler is not enough for the 980ti


H55 wouldnt be my first choice for a 980ti but it should still get you down to 55C -60C gaming. It sounds like you have tried most everything, If you are sure you have it seated correctly , sure you have a full 12v to the pump, sure that the fans are installed correctly and not working against each other (Its easier to accidentally do this than you think) and your sure the air circuit is adequate (I would run it with the fans set to exhaust the gpu heat from the case). Perhaps you need to RMA that unit.


----------



## SoToPiRi

This is my current setup. Is there anything wrong about it?


----------



## SargentHorse

Alright, finally to pull the trigger on either a X61 or an X41, which should I choose? What do you think? (Included airflow charts)


----------



## Ultisym

The air flow in that corner by the CPU is convoluted. Still you should be seeing better numbers on the Kraken. Again if your sure everything is setup right, I would RMA it.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoToPiRi*
> 
> Hey guy, I just recently install a h55 on my msi gtx 980ti gaming 6gb and having 80oC underload. Anyone know what wrong? I have install, reinstall the cooler several time, having the pump running at full speed, push/pull rad, checking thermal paste. Is it because h55 cooler is not enough for the 980ti


Its definitely strong enough, I get 45-52c gaming load, ambient temp 20c+ with a push/pull config, that H55 of yours maybe faulty?


----------



## SoToPiRi

Thanks guy so i express RMA that unit and got a replacement. My gpu now run at low 60s underload furmark for 1 hours . Is that a good temp


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoToPiRi*
> 
> Thanks guy so i express RMA that unit and got a replacement. My gpu now run at low 60s underload furmark for 1 hours . Is that a good temp


Hi, thats looks way better:thumb: What card are you using?


----------



## SoToPiRi

i am using a GTX 980 TI Gaming 6Gb from msi


----------



## gabriel21st

Had a busy weekend and wasn't able to test much, but I had a bit of time to install the G10 and Corsair H70 on my GIGABYTE 980 Ti WindForce. Ran into some bumps during initial installation, the aluminum heatsinks I bought were too high so I had to use a Vise-Grip and pliers to bend them under .51 inches. The thermal tape they came with also sucked so I had to use thermally conductive epoxy.
Other than that things are looking pretty good. I played The Division beta for a little over an hour and the highest GPU core temp was 60 C.


----------



## Shadowcify

Hello, I bought an MSI 390x about 20 days ago and I'm planning to watercool it using a G10 bracket with a Corsair H90, + some heatsinks for the vrm.

My question is, how long should I use and test the card to make sure it works properly before I install the bracket?

I have tested it using 3dmax and several demanding games like: witcher 3, GTA V, Elite Dangerous and Rainbow six siege. I am super happy with the performance but I am worried that the card might die after I install the bracket, my last card was a GTX 570 so I have little experience with AMD.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowcify*
> 
> Hello, I bought an MSI 390x about 20 days ago and I'm planning to watercool it using a G10 bracket with a Corsair H90, + some heatsinks for the vrm.
> 
> My question is, how long should I use and test the card to make sure it works properly before I install the bracket?
> 
> I have tested it using 3dmax and several demanding games like: witcher 3, GTA V, Elite Dangerous and Rainbow six siege. I am super happy with the performance but I am worried that the card might die after I install the bracket, my last card was a GTX 570 so I have little experience with AMD.


If you have played with it that significantly, I really doubt that the card is going to die on you. You should be fine.


----------



## bon22

Hey Guys! I bought the Kraken G10 the other night along with a Corsair H75 to cool my MSI 980 TI. I've read on various forums that you don't need extra heat sinks to cool the VRM because the card already has them installed. I've also heard from various people that I need to put a 25x25x1.5mm shim on the chip so the H75 can reach it. Is that necessary?


----------



## Bumtsiki

Hey!

Installed G10 to my Asus Direct cu II 280x. Idles temps are fantastic, about 35 celsius, but in Valley max temps goes to 70. It seems sort of high. I am not sure, if i need to add shims to my card, in the manusel there was said that some AMD cards need additional shims etc.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bon22*
> 
> Hey Guys! I bought the Kraken G10 the other night along with a Corsair H75 to cool my MSI 980 TI. I've read on various forums that you don't need extra heat sinks to cool the VRM because the card already has them installed. I've also heard from various people that I need to put a 25x25x1.5mm shim on the chip so the H75 can reach it. Is that necessary?


What is the exact model of your GPU and do you have pics? The shim is needed whenever a midplate is used that rises up a little more than the GPU die. Not all mid plates are an issue, some definitely are. You need a heat sink on the VRMs however they are not necessary on the VRAM. Again, some GPUs will come with a design that has a VRM heat sink mounted to the actual PCB and some will have the VRM heat sink integrated into the cooler. If the VRM heat sink is integrated into the cooler then you will need to add a heatsink.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> Installed G10 to my Asus Direct cu II 280x. Idles temps are fantastic, about 35 celsius, but in Valley max temps goes to 70. It seems sort of high. I am not sure, if i need to add shims to my card, in the manusel there was said that some AMD cards need additional shims etc.


Those numbers are too high IMO. Sounds like you may need to reseat the pump. Before doing that, verify your connections and make sure that the pump is getting a full power. Do you have the fan on the radiator set to exhaust or intake?

While I have not had a ASUS 280x, I have had several Direct CU II cooled GPUS and several strix. ASUS does not typically use a midplate. Do you have any pics?


----------



## bon22

I haven't yet taken it apart, but this is a picture of what it should look like.

I have the MSI 980 TI 6G.
Is there a way to tell if I need the shim or not before ordering one?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bon22*
> 
> I haven't yet taken it apart, but this is a picture of what it should look like.
> 
> I have the MSI 980 TI 6G.
> Is there a way to tell if I need the shim or not before ordering one?


The midplate should do a good enough job of cooling the VRMs. A lot of people have used the midplate as is without issue.
As for needing a shim, Its easy enough to tell once its apart of course. But as cheap as they are I would just have one on hand in case it is needed. You can search the thread and see if anyone else has installed a G-10 on your GPU model.


----------



## bon22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The midplate should do a good enough job of cooling the VRMs. A lot of people have used the midplate as is without issue.
> As for needing a shim, Its easy enough to tell once its apart of course. But as cheap as they are I would just have one on hand in case it is needed. You can search the thread and see if anyone else has installed a G-10 on your GPU model.


I've found these on eBay. They're not copper, but would they work?http://m.ebay.com/itm/180905731455?_mwBanner=1


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bon22*
> 
> I've found these on eBay. They're not copper, but would they work?http://m.ebay.com/itm/180905731455?_mwBanner=1


No you definitely want the shim to be copper. You will also need to pick up a little thermal paste if you dont have any laying around.


----------



## bon22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> No you definitely want the shim to be copper. You will also need to pick up a little thermal paste if you dont have any laying around.


Okay I found some copper ones. http://m.ebay.com/itm/331693644510?_mwBanner=1
I have some Noctua thermal paste laying around.
Thank you!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bon22*
> 
> Okay I found some copper ones. http://m.ebay.com/itm/331693644510?_mwBanner=1
> I have some Noctua thermal paste laying around.
> Thank you!


That will work. Post up if you have any other questions, there are several people here now that have done this installation many times.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Those numbers are too high IMO. Sounds like you may need to reseat the pump. Before doing that, verify your connections and make sure that the pump is getting a full power. Do you have the fan on the radiator set to exhaust or intake?
> 
> While I have not had a ASUS 280x, I have had several Direct CU II cooled GPUS and several strix. ASUS does not typically use a midplate. Do you have any pics?


Case is fractal r5, radiator is on the front of the case as intake. Tried reseating pump. Right now it seems to be in Valley about 59 celsius. Have to try longer testing if it stays there. Vrm 1 was about the same temp as 59, vrm 2 was about 25-30. Furmark preset 1080 test went to 60 when test ended.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Case is fractal r5, radiator is on the front of the case as intake. Tried reseating pump. Right now it seems to be in Valley about 59 celsius. Have to try longer testing if it stays there. Vrm 1 was about the same temp as 59, vrm 2 was about 25-30. Furmark preset 1080 test went to 60 when test ended.


60C max sounds more in line. Consider running it with the fan set as exhaust and see what numbers you get. Have you tried it simply with a game yet?


----------



## Shadowcify

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> If you have played with it that significantly, I really doubt that the card is going to die on you. You should be fine.


Okay thanks! I installed the kraken today and everything went well even tho it was a bit tricky to get it fitted properly. I tightened the screws using my fingers so that I would not over tighten them but it was still pretty scary. Max card GPU temp was 65C and max vrm temp during 3dmark was 79C but I doubt it will stay that high while gaming.


----------



## Zimzoid

My Kraken/H55 on an EVGA 980Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ with backplate and midplate and 25mmx25mmx1.6mm shim, gaming temps (BF4) 42-50c depending on the map, really happy with this


----------



## bon22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> My Kraken/H55 on an EVGA 980Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ with backplate and midplate and 25mmx25mmx1.6mm shim, gaming temps (BF4) 42-50c depending on the map, really happy with this


Hot mama


----------



## Shadowcify

So I played the game Elite Dangerous on highest settings and noriced that the gpu climbed over 65C and then slowly went back down after I turned it off. I took off the gpu from my pc and inspected the bracket, one side of the bracket was still not all the way down even tho I couldnt twist the screws anymore with my fingers so I carefully used a screwdriver until the bracket was evenly pressing the aio against the card. I fired up Valley benchmark and the gpu temp didnt go over 60C so that's an improvement but the weird thing is that it creeped up to 60C from 45C very slowly and then creeped down after the benchmark was done.

Is this normal? My watercooled cpu will change temperature in an instant and stay on the temp until the load decreases.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowcify*
> 
> So I played the game Elite Dangerous on highest settings and noriced that the gpu climbed over 65C and then slowly went back down after I turned it off. I took off the gpu from my pc and inspected the bracket, one side of the bracket was still not all the way down even tho I couldnt twist the screws anymore with my fingers so I carefully used a screwdriver until the bracket was evenly pressing the aio against the card. I fired up Valley benchmark and the gpu temp didnt go over 60C so that's an improvement but the weird thing is that it creeped up to 60C from 45C very slowly and then creeped down after the benchmark was done.
> 
> Is this normal? My watercooled cpu will change temperature in an instant and stay on the temp until the load decreases.


What cooler are you using?


----------



## Shadowcify

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> What cooler are you using?


Corsair hydro h90 with a noctua NFA14 as back exhaust on the gpu. Hydro H100i with two noctua NF-F12 as top exhaust on the cpu.


----------



## duffm4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bon22*
> 
> Hey Guys! I bought the Kraken G10 the other night along with a Corsair H75 to cool my MSI 980 TI. I've read on various forums that you don't need extra heat sinks to cool the VRM because the card already has them installed. I've also heard from various people that I need to put a 25x25x1.5mm shim on the chip so the H75 can reach it. Is that necessary?


Having a very similar problem if I could get someone's 2cents about the matter. I just need confirmation if a copper shim is necessary when mounting an AIO (h75) using a kraken g10 bracket if there is not a back or mid plate. I know each model has it's own quirks my card is an EVGA SC Titan X. If I need a copper shim, where would you suggest I purchase it?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duffm4n*
> 
> Having a very similar problem if I could get someone's 2cents about the matter. I just need confirmation if a copper shim is necessary when mounting an AIO (h75) using a kraken g10 bracket if there is not a back or mid plate. I know each model has it's own quirks my card is an EVGA SC Titan X. If I need a copper shim, where would you suggest I purchase it?


Typically, If there is no midplate, you dont need a shim. Backplate has nothing to do with needing a shim or not.
Do you have a link to your GPU? I will take a look real quick and verify.

Edit: This it? https://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/b3253/evga-gtx-titan-x-superclocked.html


----------



## duffm4n

Sorry no pic. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UXTN5P0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Edit: yes those are one and the same


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duffm4n*
> 
> Sorry no pic. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UXTN5P0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00


The info I found shows you will be fine without a shim but you will need a heat sink for the VRMs.


----------



## rxmxsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The info I found shows you will be fine without a shim but you will need a heat sink for the VRMs.


What info did you find? I'd love to read up on that. Also, 'need' a heat sink for the VRMs? I had this setup on the 980Ti SC and didn't do anything special on the VRMs. I was 25-28C idle and 45-50C under full load.

Apologies if I'm way off base here. Still learning.


----------



## bon22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rxmxsh*
> 
> What info did you find? I'd love to read up on that. Also, 'need' a heat sink for the VRMs? I had this setup on the 980Ti SC and didn't do anything special on the VRMs. I was 25-28C idle and 45-50C under full load.
> 
> Apologies if I'm way off base here. Still learning.


Also learning here. The temps you are quoting are the core temps, not the VRM. You'll want to put them on there to be safe.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rxmxsh*
> 
> What info did you find? I'd love to read up on that. Also, 'need' a heat sink for the VRMs? I had this setup on the 980Ti SC and didn't do anything special on the VRMs. I was 25-28C idle and 45-50C under full load.
> 
> Apologies if I'm way off base here. Still learning.


I just pulled up a review of the GPU and some online images of the PCB. The cooler is pretty much a reference blower style and on that GPU the blower is directly over the VRMs. There is no VRM heat sink in the cooler or on the PCB itself. But again the blower is directly over the VRMs.

As for a heat sink on the VRM, some people do indeed run without a heat sink and get away with it, but the heat limits performance and also shortens life so why not put a $10 heat sink on it?


----------



## rxmxsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I just pulled up a review of the GPU and some online images of the PCB. The cooler is pretty much a reference blower style and on that GPU the blower is directly over the VRMs. There is no VRM heat sink in the cooler or on the PCB itself. But again the blower is directly over the VRMs.
> 
> As for a heat sink on the VRM, some people do indeed run without a heat sink and get away with it, but the heat limits performance and also shortens life so why not put a $10 heat sink on it?


Ah, ok. That makes sense. I was thinking about upgrading the fan that comes with the bracket with this: http://noctua.at/en/nf-a8-flx.html. I'll look into the heat syncs as well. Thanks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rxmxsh*
> 
> Ah, ok. That makes sense. I was thinking about upgrading the fan that comes with the bracket with this: http://noctua.at/en/nf-a8-flx.html. I'll look into the heat syncs as well. Thanks.


I run a Nanoxia fan that is similar on my G-10s. It will work fine.


----------



## bon22

Update: the MSI 980 ti 6g does not need a shim!


----------



## bon22

The following pictures are my MSI 980 TI Gaming 6G with the Kraken g10 and the corsair h75. The shim was not required (pretty sure). Idle temps are 24 and load is 60. Compared to 40 and 80 before, respectively.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Would you say its silent under load, or how would you compare it with the stock cooler ? Love my GTX 970 Gaming but the cooler is just annoying


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Would you say its silent under load, or how would you compare it with the stock cooler ? Love my GTX 970 Gaming but the cooler is just annoying


Definitely quieter than that.

Depending on the speed I have my fans at, I can sometimes only hear the pump.


----------



## bon22

Definitely quieter and cooler too! My GPU temps dropped 20 Celsius.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bon22*
> 
> Definitely quieter and cooler too! My GPU temps dropped 20 Celsius.


Nice. If you decide you would like it even more quiet you can get some fans that will do the trick.


----------



## Spartoi

So I can't install the radiators in my H440 case as I wanted due to compatibility issues. I have a Kraken x61 for CPU and x41 for my 390x. I have the x61 on top as exhaust and the x41 in the front as intake. Ideally, I would like the x41/GPU to be in the rear as exhaust but this doesn't fit with the x61 at the top.

So, I was wondering if there is a better airflow setup or if I should downgrade the x41 to a x31 or H55 or some other 120mm radiator which will fit as an exhaust. Thoughts?


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoi*
> 
> So I can't install the radiators in my H440 case as I wanted due to compatibility issues. I have a Kraken x61 for CPU and x41 for my 390x. I have the x61 on top as exhaust and the x41 in the front as intake. Ideally, I would like the x41/GPU to be in the rear as exhaust but this doesn't fit with the x61 at the top.
> 
> So, I was wondering if there is a better airflow setup or if I should downgrade the x41 to a x31 or H55 or some other 120mm radiator which will fit as an exhaust. Thoughts?


You can't mount it exhausting out the back? If not, try mounting your x61 so the tubes come out towards the front of the case. If that doesn't work and you don't want to try to mod it in, you may have no other choice than to try to find a different rad that might work.


----------



## Spartoi

Yeah, it doesn't outright fit but I tried something unorthodox to get it fit. I have both the X41 and x61 in push configuration (would prefer pull to avoid dust, but this was the only way). I have a 140mm fan on the x41 of course, but I put 1x 140mm and 1x 120mm fan on x61. I replaced the second 140mm fan on the x61 because it was too large (tall) to fit with the x41 and fan in the rear. In this configuration, everything fits thankfully and temps dropped by about 4-5C so it was worth the time to figure this out. Although for some odd reason my idle GPU temps are higher while load temps are lower.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoi*
> 
> Yeah, it doesn't outright fit but I tried something unorthodox to get it fit. I have both the X41 and x61 in push configuration (would prefer pull to avoid dust, but this was the only way). I have a 140mm fan on the x41 of course, but I put 1x 140mm and 1x 120mm fan on x61. I replaced the second 140mm fan on the x61 because it was too large (tall) to fit with the x41 and fan in the rear. In this configuration, everything fits thankfully and temps dropped by about 4-5C so it was worth the time to figure this out. Although for some odd reason my idle GPU temps are higher while load temps are lower.


Glad you got it to work, have any pics lying around? Sounds like a setup worth seeing


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoi*
> 
> Although for some odd reason my idle GPU temps are higher while load temps are lower.


Is fan speed on a curve or set to a constant speed?


----------



## Spartoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SargentHorse*
> 
> Glad you got it to work, have any pics lying around? Sounds like a setup worth seeing


Nothing special, just a simple idea I thought of.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Is fan speed on a curve or set to a constant speed?


Curve, but it's the same curve that I used prior to changing the x41's position.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoi*
> 
> Nothing special, just a simple idea I thought of.
> 
> 
> Curve, but it's the same curve that I used prior to changing the x41's position.


Have you tried adjusting the curve to compensate for the lower airflow at idle/low fan speed? Might get your idle temps down some more though the temps you have are not a problem if your happy with it.


----------



## Spartoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Have you tried adjusting the curve to compensate for the lower airflow at idle/low fan speed? Might get your idle temps down some more though the temps you have are not a problem if your happy with it.


Yeah, I've tried that but it still runs hotter for some reason. It doesn't bother me too much though since the idle temps are decent enough.


----------



## MrForeverAlone

Kraken G10 + Kraken X31 on a Zotac NVIDIA GTX 980Ti AMP Extreme.

Just thought I'd post some pictures as I couldn't find anyone else on the internet who had tried water cooling a Zotac Amp Extreme.

For those of you who don't know the Amp Extreme is a beast of a card with the second highest (that I'm currently aware of) factory over clock available. Downside is that this card is a massive, oversized triple slot job. So when I had the bright idea to get two in SLI it left me with no room for air cooling in my mid tower case.

So here's what I ended up with.











The X31 pump and G10 fan are plugged into the GPU fan header for a total draw of 0.475mA which until I hear back from Zotac otherwise I'm going to assume the card can handle easily.
This also cuts down on cables to hide. Also left the USB for the pump unconnected since all it does is allow me to change the pump speed. With it disconnected it just runs at standard which is fine for me.

Current temps are 25c to 28c at idle and a couple of hours of heavy gaming couldn't get the temps above 60c, it pretty much hit 56c - 57c and stayed which is amazing considering It's only a cheap 120m rad with one fan at the moment.

I also managed to leave the black plate on as I play by no one else's rules. Does a great job of hiding the extra cables...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrForeverAlone*
> 
> Kraken G10 + Kraken X31 on a Zotac NVIDIA GTX 980Ti AMP Extreme.
> 
> Just thought I'd post some pictures as I couldn't find anyone else on the internet who had tried water cooling a Zotac Amp Extreme.
> 
> For those of you who don't know the Amp Extreme is a beast of a card with the second highest (that I'm currently aware of) factory over clock available. Downside is that this card is a massive, oversized triple slot job. So when I had the bright idea to get two in SLI it left me with no room for air cooling in my mid tower case.
> 
> So here's what I ended up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The X31 pump and G10 fan are plugged into the GPU fan header for a total draw of 0.475mA which until I hear back from Zotac otherwise I'm going to assume the card can handle easily.
> This also cuts down on cables to hide. Also left the USB for the pump unconnected since all it does is allow me to change the pump speed. With it disconnected it just runs at standard which is fine for me.
> 
> Current temps are 25c to 28c at idle and a couple of hours of heavy gaming couldn't get the temps above 60c, it pretty much hit 56c - 57c and stayed which is amazing considering It's only a cheap 120m rad with one fan at the moment.
> 
> I also managed to leave the black plate on as I play by no one else's rules. Does a great job of hiding the extra cables...


I never recommend anyone removing the back plate. It is quite easy to mount these with the plates in place. Those temps are pretty good in SLI. Mine run only a few degrees cooler on the max side. Do you have both GPU radiators exhausting from the case?


----------



## vasyltheonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrForeverAlone*
> 
> Kraken G10 + Kraken X31 on a Zotac NVIDIA GTX 980Ti AMP Extreme.
> 
> Just thought I'd post some pictures as I couldn't find anyone else on the internet who had tried water cooling a Zotac Amp Extreme.
> 
> For those of you who don't know the Amp Extreme is a beast of a card with the second highest (that I'm currently aware of) factory over clock available. Downside is that this card is a massive, oversized triple slot job. So when I had the bright idea to get two in SLI it left me with no room for air cooling in my mid tower case.
> 
> So here's what I ended up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The X31 pump and G10 fan are plugged into the GPU fan header for a total draw of 0.475mA which until I hear back from Zotac otherwise I'm going to assume the card can handle easily.
> This also cuts down on cables to hide. Also left the USB for the pump unconnected since all it does is allow me to change the pump speed. With it disconnected it just runs at standard which is fine for me.
> 
> Current temps are 25c to 28c at idle and a couple of hours of heavy gaming couldn't get the temps above 60c, it pretty much hit 56c - 57c and stayed which is amazing considering It's only a cheap 120m rad with one fan at the moment.
> 
> I also managed to leave the black plate on as I play by no one else's rules. Does a great job of hiding the extra cables...


Can you verify whether those aluminum heatsinks stay on your GPU without falling off? Reading the reviews on amazon didn't exactly made me confident in purchasing them.


----------



## majnu

anyone know where I can buy the official thumbscrews for the g10 or know what size it is so I can look on ebay?

Thanks


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> anyone know where I can buy the official thumbscrews for the g10 or know what size it is so I can look on ebay?
> 
> Thanks


contact nzxt


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrForeverAlone*
> 
> Kraken G10 + Kraken X31 on a Zotac NVIDIA GTX 980Ti AMP Extreme.
> 
> Just thought I'd post some pictures as I couldn't find anyone else on the internet who had tried water cooling a Zotac Amp Extreme.
> 
> For those of you who don't know the Amp Extreme is a beast of a card with the second highest (that I'm currently aware of) factory over clock available. Downside is that this card is a massive, oversized triple slot job. So when I had the bright idea to get two in SLI it left me with no room for air cooling in my mid tower case.
> 
> So here's what I ended up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The X31 pump and G10 fan are plugged into the GPU fan header for a total draw of 0.475mA which until I hear back from Zotac otherwise I'm going to assume the card can handle easily.
> This also cuts down on cables to hide. Also left the USB for the pump unconnected since all it does is allow me to change the pump speed. With it disconnected it just runs at standard which is fine for me.
> 
> Current temps are 25c to 28c at idle and a couple of hours of heavy gaming couldn't get the temps above 60c, it pretty much hit 56c - 57c and stayed which is amazing considering It's only a cheap 120m rad with one fan at the moment.
> 
> I also managed to leave the black plate on as I play by no one else's rules. Does a great job of hiding the extra cables...


Same card here, Ive got a h105 on mine and it only gets to 40c when running benches, left the backplate on too.


----------



## MrForeverAlone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I never recommend anyone removing the back plate. It is quite easy to mount these with the plates in place. Those temps are pretty good in SLI. Mine run only a few degrees cooler on the max side. Do you have both GPU radiators exhausting from the case?


Sadly no they're both blowing all that lovely warm air straight into my case. Both the graphics card AIO are at the front of my case in a push pull and my CPU dual rad is at the top. Far from ideal but will do until I go back to proper water cooling.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> Can you verify whether those aluminum heatsinks stay on your GPU without falling off? Reading the reviews on amazon didn't exactly made me confident in purchasing them.


The ones I got came eBay and I would describe them as "Adequate". The thermal pads they came with worked fine as long as your careful not to knock them too hard when your installing the G10. I've had no problems with them since they've been installed. You could always try a site like ModDIY if you want some more choice in heatsinks.

But to be fair the ram heat sinks aren't vitality important as they run pretty cool, I'd still recommend them as do lend a touch of class but don't lose sleep over them. The VRM ones are more important as they get more heat to deal with (hence the fan on the G10). Luckily for me the Zotac comes with it's own VRM heat sink that does the job so I can't comment how good these cheap ones are for those.

If I was going to do the VRM's I would have got some better shaped heatsinks, these ones are too easy to catch by accident, and some septate thermal adhesive paste (thermal compound but more sticky).


----------



## IamDND

Hey guys i'm about to get a zotac 980ti amp edition or maybe the amp omega i'm planning to water cool it using the kraken x41 and the kraken g10 would the kraken g10 be compatible to the card and i'm planning to follow this video without removing the backplate and does the zotac 980ti amp or amp omega has vrm heatsinks like in the video? Hey guys i'm about to get a zotac 980ti amp edition or maybe the amp omega i'm planning to water cool it using the kraken x41 and the kraken g10 would the kraken g10 be compatible to the card and i'm planning to follow this video without removing the backplate and does the zotac 980ti amp or amp omega has vrm heatsinks like in the video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2SFSYl60jk do i still need to buy vrm heatsinks for the vrm? Thanks i'm pretty noob when it comes to this kind of things cause i'm still pretty new to the pc building.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IamDND*
> 
> Hey guys i'm about to get a zotac 980ti amp edition or maybe the amp omega i'm planning to water cool it using the kraken x41 and the kraken g10 would the kraken g10 be compatible to the card and i'm planning to follow this video without removing the backplate and does the zotac 980ti amp or amp omega has vrm heatsinks like in the video? Hey guys i'm about to get a zotac 980ti amp edition or maybe the amp omega i'm planning to water cool it using the kraken x41 and the kraken g10 would the kraken g10 be compatible to the card and i'm planning to follow this video without removing the backplate and does the zotac 980ti amp or amp omega has vrm heatsinks like in the video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2SFSYl60jk do i still need to buy vrm heatsinks for the vrm? Thanks i'm pretty noob when it comes to this kind of things cause i'm still pretty new to the pc building.


Ok, link to the exact card you are ordering please and we will try and help you out.


----------



## Spartoi

Is it worth replacing the G10's VRM fan? If so, what is recommended that is both quiet and cool?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoi*
> 
> Is it worth replacing the G10's VRM fan? If so, what is recommended that is both quiet and cool?


The fan that comes with the G-10 is both effective and quiet. Though I did replace mine with nanoxias, i never heard the NZXT fans, I just can not leave anything alone.


----------



## IamDND

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ok, link to the exact card you are ordering please and we will try and help you out.


here's the card that i am planning to get.

https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/gtx-980-ti-amp-omega

https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/gtx-980-ti-amp

if i'm lucky enoug i could get the amp extreme edition.

https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/gtx-980-ti-amp-extreme


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IamDND*
> 
> here's the card that i am planning to get.
> 
> https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/gtx-980-ti-amp-omega
> 
> https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/gtx-980-ti-amp
> 
> if i'm lucky enoug i could get the amp extreme edition.
> 
> https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/gtx-980-ti-amp-extreme


On the first two links, Searching the internet i see some pictures that do not appear to have a heat sink on the VRMs but some do. Choose one with a heat sink mounted on the PCB to make life easier but it is not a deal breaker if it doesnt. Adding a heat sink is cheap.

On the extreme version it has the midplate and while it may need a shim for the gpu die to clear the midplate to the cold plate of the pump, thats not a big deal and its cheap too.. so on the first two im unclear as several versions appeared to have the VRM heat sink on PCB and several had it built into the cooler. The amp edition with the midplate is a good choice if you have a choice, I'd run any of them actually. :=) Any can be made to work.


----------



## IamDND

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> On the first two links, Searching the internet i see some pictures that do not appear to have a heat sink on the VRMs but some do. Choose one with a heat sink mounted on the PCB to make life easier but it is not a deal breaker if it doesnt. Adding a heat sink is cheap.
> 
> On the extreme version it has the midplate and while it may need a shim for the gpu die to clear the midplate to the cold plate of the pump, thats not a big deal and its cheap too.. so on the first two im unclear as several versions appeared to have the VRM heat sink on PCB and several had it built into the cooler. The amp edition with the midplate is a good choice if you have a choice, I'd run any of them actually. :=) Any can be made to work.


oh i see thanks the amp extreme is slightly priced higher and i have someone who i can get the amp edition at a lower price so i think i might get the amp edition unless i could find somewhere where the amp extreme is slightly cheaper then that would be the best option btw if it is not bothersome could i see the pics of the pcb that you saw of the 3 models.


----------



## thebaltar

Anyone knows about Gigabyte 390X G1 Gaming?
This card is so hot and loud, i receive him from RMA because my 290x dead.

I would like to install Krake G10 + H75, but i dont know about the compatibility.
It is secure?

Thanks!


----------



## iishowoff

please please please someone tell me the G10 is compatible with the Strix 980ti????


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iishowoff*
> 
> please please please someone tell me the G10 is compatible with the Strix 980ti????


It is compatible but you will have to add a VRM heatsink as the heatsink for the STRIX 980TI is built into the cooler. Its not a big deal.


----------



## iishowoff

any recommended heat sinks, and vids/tutorials?


----------



## iishowoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> It is compatible but you will have to add a VRM heatsink as the heatsink for the STRIX 980TI is built into the cooler. Its not a big deal.


any recommended heat sinks, and vids/tutorials?


----------



## iishowoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> It is compatible but you will have to add a VRM heatsink as the heatsink for the STRIX 980TI is built into the cooler. Its not a big deal.


am i looking for something like this??



http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=pd_luc_rh_sim_01_01_t_img_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1



http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=19B5D1MTSMEHKG16GK7D


----------



## Arevir

Guys just wanna ask, recently installed my G10 and X31 on my R9 290x Reference model. I noticed that the IDLE temps on Reference Fan and X31 are the same at 38 to 42c while in gaming they are different 70 to 80 on reference while 60 to 65 on X31. I was just wondering why am I getting this high Temps while I see you guys having it just somewhere between 50 to 55c? All answeres will be appreciated. Thanks guys!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arevir*
> 
> Guys just wanna ask, recently installed my G10 and X31 on my R9 290x Reference model. I noticed that the IDLE temps on Reference Fan and X31 are the same at 38 to 42c while in gaming they are different 70 to 80 on reference while 60 to 65 on X31. I was just wondering why am I getting this high Temps while I see you guys having it just somewhere between 50 to 55c? All answeres will be appreciated. Thanks guys!


First things first, please put your rig in your sig so we know what your using. All details please, cooling for CPU etc.

When you set up the radiator in the case, do you have the fans taking air in or exhausting air from the case?


----------



## dVeLoPe

if i have an old H50 laying in the closet and this G10 bracet

will it work on 980ti CLASSIFIED without any other things or do i have to mod or buy stuff to get it working?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> if i have an old H50 laying in the closet and this G10 bracet
> 
> will it work on 980ti CLASSIFIED without any other things or do i have to mod or buy stuff to get it working?


Have to see if you need a VRM Heat sink but other than that, sure, it will work.

A quick search for some PCB pics on that GPU show the VRM heat sink is built into the cooler. So you will need some sort of heatsink solution for the VRMS. Cheap and easy.


----------



## dVeLoPe

doesnt the h50 weight too much it loos kbig and bulky compared to all thse new hXXX kits


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> doesnt the h50 weight too much it loos kbig and bulky compared to all thse new hXXX kits


If it uses the asetek design and fits the bracket it should work fine. For me, If i spent the money on a 980TI i would go with 140mm radiator version for a few extra C but its not necessary. If it fits, and the "old" H50 still works. You should get good results. This mod isnt so much about AIOs being some great cooler as it is being able to dump the GPU heat straight out of the case.


----------



## Arevir

Sorry if I did not put my Rig on my Sig. Here's my Rig Specs
CPU - 2500k + CM V6GT + 2x120mm Cougar
Mobo - Z77 D3H
GPU - R9 290x + G10 + X31
Case - H440 V2
Fans - 3x120mm Cougar Exhaust on top, 1x140mm NZXT Exhaust rear, 2x120mm NZXT Intake Front , X31 Installed infront for Intake as well

Getting temps on GPU on Idle at 38 to 45c then on Load getting 65c. Was wondering why is it doing this? Check on multiple users of X31 on their GPU and they are just getting below 50c on Load. Re-seated the G10 + X31 and still having the same temps. X31 pump is plugged on the System Fan2. Cpu and other fans are plugged on the PWM Board of the case. I really do want to lower the GPU temps to the same level as you guys.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arevir*
> 
> Sorry if I did not put my Rig on my Sig. Here's my Rig Specs
> CPU - 2500k + CM V6GT + 2x120mm Cougar
> Mobo - Z77 D3H
> GPU - R9 290x + G10 + X31
> Case - H440 V2
> Fans - 3x120mm Cougar Exhaust on top, 1x140mm NZXT Exhaust rear, 2x120mm NZXT Intake Front , X31 Installed infront for Intake as well
> 
> Getting temps on GPU on Idle at 38 to 45c then on Load getting 65c. Was wondering why is it doing this? Check on multiple users of X31 on their GPU and they are just getting below 50c on Load. Re-seated the G10 + X31 and still having the same temps. X31 pump is plugged on the System Fan2. Cpu and other fans are plugged on the PWM Board of the case. I really do want to lower the GPU temps to the same level as you guys.


I realize that a lot of people and even the instruction manuals may say to have the fan in-taking on the radiator, but these recommendations are made for when the product is used for cooling the CPU. The 290x puts off a lot of heat. Right now, all that heat your removing from the 290x is getting dumped inside the case and is almost certainly adding significantly to your temps. Im not saying the difference in temp will be the 15C difference your comparing to but it should get you 5C plus of that difference back and is where I would start to get your numbers down.

Be sure to go into the bios and make sure the fan headers you are using are getting full power and are not on a silent setting or something of that nature.


----------



## Arevir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I realize that a lot of people and even the instruction manuals may say to have the fan in-taking on the radiator, but these recommendations are made for when the product is used for cooling the CPU. The 290x puts off a lot of heat. Right now, all that heat your removing from the 290x is getting dumped inside the case and is almost certainly adding significantly to your temps. Im not saying the difference in temp will be the 15C difference your comparing to but it should get you 5C plus of that difference back and is where I would start to get your numbers down.
> 
> Be sure to go into the bios and make sure the fan headers you are using are getting full power and are not on a silent setting or something of that nature.


Thanks brother. I was just wondering, you said to check fan headers if it is getting full power, just went Bios and all I do see is CPU and System Fan Control. The choices are Silent/Normal/Manual/PWM, there are no settings to change any of the voltages


----------



## bon22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arevir*
> 
> Thanks brother. I was just wondering, you said to check fan headers if it is getting full power, just went Bios and all I do see is CPU and System Fan Control. The choices are Silent/Normal/Manual/PWM, there are no settings to change any of the voltages


There should be an additional option to set the specific speed within the BIOS.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bon22*
> 
> There should be an additional option to set the specific speed within the BIOS.


Wouldn't that be manual/PWM (depending on what you have plugged in)


----------



## Arevir

got the rads of the x31 positioned at the back for exhaust, changed the X31 to Performance Mode and still having GPU Temps on 40 - 45c on Idle and 60 - 65c on load. Also is it really hard to put the G10 Bracket on the GPU as I find the screws too short.


----------



## SargentHorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arevir*
> 
> got the rads of the x31 positioned at the back for exhaust, changed the X31 to Performance Mode and still having GPU Temps on 40 - 45c on Idle and 60 - 65c on load. Also is it really hard to put the G10 Bracket on the GPU as I find the screws too short.


How did you apply your TIM? Strange that your screws seem too short, can you take pics? Anyone think he might have to RMA the pump?


----------



## crankjob

Hi Everyone,

Just wondering if somebody tried the kraken g10 on a Sapphire 290x *Vapor-X* Tri-X (non-reference)? Not sure if it's compatible but If it is, I have a few questions








1. Did you use a passive cooler for the VRM?
2. What AIO cooler did you use (I have corsair h55 ready)?
3. How was the temp after installation?
4. Any suggestion for a Radiator mounting bracket? I'm using a Corsair Carbide 500r and I already have an H100i (240mm rad) on the top area.


I just bought this mounting bracket (I haven't tried it yet though). I have 2 sapphire r9 290x (in crossfire) 1 Tri-X which is a reference pcb and 1 vapor-x Tri-x which is a non-reference. I'm new here by the way.







Thank you!


----------



## Bumtsiki

Managed to swap my 280x for 970. Is it possible to add g10 to msi gaming 4g card? I read that the vrm module is in the front and krakens fan would not help even when i can add the g10.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Managed to swap my 280x for 970. Is it possible to add g10 to msi gaming 4g card? I read that the vrm module is in the front and krakens fan would not help even when i can add the g10.


Yes you can run the G-10. You will need to rig up some sort of cooling over the VRMs and make sure it has a heat sink. It doesnt require a ton of air flow over the vrms heat sink but you do need some. I ran a pair of 970s with the VRMs on the output side by simply mounting up a small fan to the case blank. Maybe to ghetto for you but you get the idea.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yes you can run the G-10. You will need to rig up some sort of cooling over the VRMs and make sure it has a heat sink. It doesnt require a ton of air flow over the vrms heat sink but you do need some. I ran a pair of 970s with the VRMs on the output side by simply mounting up a small fan to the case blank. Maybe to ghetto for you but you get the idea.


I have fractal r5 and i have taken out all the hdd cages, in front are 2 140mm fans. Maybe this will to the airflow trick.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> I have fractal r5 and i have taken out all the hdd cages, in front are 2 140mm fans. Maybe this will to the airflow trick.


As long as you have some airflow over the VRM heat sink, the 970 should be fine. Do make sure there is a heat sink/sinks on them.


----------



## mr2cam

Will the G10 work with this H105? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060016-WW/dp/B00HKEI3EY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458963098&sr=8-3&keywords=h100


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> Will the G10 work with this H105? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060016-WW/dp/B00HKEI3EY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458963098&sr=8-3&keywords=h100


Yeah it is supported.

http://support.nzxt.com/hc/en-us/articles/202479944-What-is-the-G10-compatible-with-


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> Will the G10 work with this H105? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060016-WW/dp/B00HKEI3EY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458963098&sr=8-3&keywords=h100


Yea, Running two of them.


----------



## mr2cam

Had a friend give me an H105 since he was going to a custom loop, decided to replace my H55 with it on my 980ti. Very impressed with the temps, before with the H55 and a push pull config using 2 Noctua 120mm fans, I saw a max temp of 56c. No with the H105 mounted in the bottom of my case with 2 Noctua 120mm fans pulling air up from it, I saw a max temp of 40c after running heaven for about an hour!


----------



## mr2cam

Here is a pic of the setup


----------



## mamon

Hello guys im in need of help im planning to buy asus strix 970 or i have an option of msi 970 what wil i buy for extra things if i combined it with the kraken

Newbie here and i have to let the shop to set of ever i cant do it right

Thabk you


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mamon*
> 
> Hello guys im in need of help im planning to buy asus strix 970 or i have an option of msi 970 what wil i buy for extra things if i combined it with the kraken
> 
> Newbie here and i have to let the shop to set of ever i cant do it right
> 
> Thabk you


The Strix 970 has the VRMs on the front/output side of the PCB and will require a little extra cooling over vrms, a small fan or well designed air circuit blowing air across them will work. The STRIX does however come with a heatink built onto the PCB. As for the MSI, which side of the GPU die are the VRMs on?


----------



## mamon

@Ultisym Thank you for the response

sir i really dont know about that thats why i ask some questions about what will i buy for necessary things and i really dont know the compatibility im reading some forums about it but the only thing i saw is the gtx 980

but for this forum i want to ask questions also like with is better msi or asus on gtrx 970

thanks


----------



## ashley00

Hi there.my g10 came this morning thought I'd ask some questions before fitting.

I have a h55 on my cpu atm.I also ordered a kraken x41 so have both of these.which would be most benifical one which
So either cpu with h55 and x41 on 980ti
Or x41 on cpu and h55 on 980ti

Looking forward to getting home now it's teasing me in my van.

And also is the preapplied Tim that's on kraken x41 if used for gpu OK or should I replace it I have a tube of mx4 as well


----------



## HAL900

85/2700rpm







53/1050 rpm


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashley00*
> 
> Hi there.my g10 came this morning thought I'd ask some questions before fitting.
> 
> I have a h55 on my cpu atm.I also ordered a kraken x41 so have both of these.which would be most benifical one which
> So either cpu with h55 and x41 on 980ti
> Or x41 on cpu and h55 on 980ti
> 
> Looking forward to getting home now it's teasing me in my van.
> 
> And also is the preapplied Tim that's on kraken x41 if used for gpu OK or should I replace it I have a tube of mx4 as well


Either will work fine. The preapplied tim on the pump will be fine as long as it isnt placed on there in the stripe pattern. That is designed for use on CPUs and you will not have as much contact with the much smaller GPU DIE. Of its the preapplied square of TIM, it will be fine.


----------



## anti-duck

Has anyone banged a Kraken G10 on an XFX R9 390 (specifically the Black Edition with the updated PCB - R9-390P-8DB6)? Just wondering if I would be able to leave the VRM heatsink on?

I was gonna wait for Polaris until I get a new GPU, but I think I'm gonna grab the XFX R9 390 next payday (currently using the iGPU on my 4790k and I can't wait any longer lol) and then just give it to my brother when Polaris arrives, I already have the G10 and a Corsair H90; hopefully it fits!


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello

I'm joining this club in the next week.. I just ordered Corsair H105 + G10 for my MSI 980 Gaming.. also i order another card for SLI.. if the result good i will order another H105+G10 for the other card


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I'm joining this club in the next week.. I just ordered Corsair H105 + G10 for my MSI 980 Gaming.. also i order another card for SLI.. if the result good i will order another H105+G10 for the other card


SLI 980s are nice. You dont need 105s to cool them though.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> SLI 980s are nice. You dont need 105s to cool them though.


Thanks for replying.. the idea the H75 cost 75$ and i will pay same customs even if its h55 or h115i or 360m rad..and my case allow me to install the H105's without problem's.. so why not ?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Thanks for replying.. the idea the H75 cost 75$ and i will pay same customs even if its h55 or h115i or 360m rad..and my case allow me to install the H105's without problem's.. so why not ?


If they are the same price and you have plenty of room, yeah go for it. They will buy you a couple more degrees C of cooling.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If they are the same price and you have plenty of room, yeah go for it. They will buy you a couple more degrees C of cooling.


Yea, and no need for high fan speed


----------



## mamon

does anyone here already did waterbracket like hg10 or g10 for msi gtx 970 4gb gaming?
what should i need to buy if there is any mods involved

thank you


----------



## jboots

So I just mounted my G10 with X31 to a MSI 7970. I did a Heaven Extreme test and didnt get above 48 C!

Question: right now my rad setup is Case/Rad/Fan (out take). Should it be Case/Fan/Rad? And if I add and 2nd fan will both be out takes?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jboots*
> 
> So I just mounted my G10 with X31 to a MSI 7970. I did a Heaven Extreme test and didnt get above 48 C!
> 
> Question: right now my rad setup is Case/Rad/Fan (out take). Should it be Case/Fan/Rad? And if I add and 2nd fan will both be out takes?


Exhausting the GPU air is ideal of course, which your are already doing. The Case/Rad/Fan is fine. If you decide to do a push/pull configuration with two fans they would both need to be exhausting in the same direction.


----------



## danielwhitt

Here's my contribution, MSI r9 390 8g gaming, white kraken g10 and corsair h75, using the backplate, original midplate and part of the original heatsink plate for the vrms. Looks good, and my temps have gone from 95 degrees and throttling, to max 55 degrees and 26 on idle, with cool vrm temps, inline with original stock cooler. Just need another h75 to do the other card now.


----------



## danielwhitt




----------



## awp4lyfe

new to the kraken scene. recently started a new rig. bought a 980ti FTW, kraken g10 and a corsair h55. is there anything else i'd need? i have a little 20x20x1mm copper shim between the h55's waterblock and the gpu's chip, but i'm not sure if there's anything else i need? someone said something about having to get other copper pieces to cool vram?


----------



## HAL900

Honestly copper does not work. Remove the backplate. It's first and two give to 240 mm radiators
At vram nothing needs to be on the power sections just 92 mm fan


----------



## awp4lyfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> Honestly copper does not work. Remove the backplate. It's first and two give to 240 mm radiators
> At vram nothing needs to be on the power sections just 92 mm fan


i did notice that when i installed the waterblock and kraken before using the copper shim that the gpu itself wasn't cooling properly. watching a youtube video brought me up to 85 degrees. i took it all apart and installed the copper shim and i'm at a stable 40 degrees when gaming, but after a while (30 minutes or so of straight gaming) the temps jump back up to around 80ish. doesn't sound like an issue but i haven't tested it any further than that.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> Honestly copper does not work. Remove the backplate. It's first and two give to 240 mm radiators
> At vram nothing needs to be on the power sections just 92 mm fan


Since when does copper not work?

I would never recommend anyone remove their back plate. The copper shims work quite well when a midplate is in use keeping the cold plate from sitting square on the GPU die, there may be a 2 deg C penalty from doing it this way. The key is to not use too much TIM on the shim.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awp4lyfe*
> 
> i did notice that when i installed the waterblock and kraken before using the copper shim that the gpu itself wasn't cooling properly. watching a youtube video brought me up to 85 degrees. i took it all apart and installed the copper shim and i'm at a stable 40 degrees when gaming, but after a while (30 minutes or so of straight gaming) the temps jump back up to around 80ish. doesn't sound like an issue but i haven't tested it any further than that.


You may want to redo the TIM on your cold plate and the shim. either it did not seat well or you may have used to much TIM. There is typically only a couple degrees C penalty for using the shim. As for your temps climbing back up over time, are your fans set to intake air into the case through your GPU radiator?


----------



## HAL900

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Since when does copper not work?
> 
> I would never recommend anyone remove their back plate. The copper shims work quite well when a midplate is in use keeping the cold plate from sitting square on the GPU die, there may be a 2 deg C penalty from doing it this way. The key is to not use too much TIM on the shim.


yep
It really works poorly. Moreover, the need 25x25 instead of 20x20


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> yep
> It really works poorly. Moreover, the need 25x25 instead of 20x20


There are better materials sure but it works fine for the task at hand. And its cheap.


----------



## HAL900

Copper is copper. For me, not a success. I preferred to get rid of the pretty appearance backplate than be loud

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFyEheeGRic

meybe bad paste but without copper is good


----------



## awp4lyfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You may want to redo the TIM on your cold plate and the shim. either it did not seat well or you may have used to much TIM. There is typically only a couple degrees C penalty for using the shim. As for your temps climbing back up over time, are your fans set to intake air into the case through your GPU radiator?


when you say TIM i assume you mean the thermal paste? i was hoping not to have to disconnect all of this again, it's such a pain - especially cleaning the old paste off lol.. but i'll have to double check it. i don't know if it matters, but the game i tested on was Witcher 3. i have read that since it's a demanding game that temps will rise, but i was assuming with watercooling 85 degrees wouldn't even be a thought.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awp4lyfe*
> 
> when you say TIM i assume you mean the thermal paste? i was hoping not to have to disconnect all of this again, it's such a pain - especially cleaning the old paste off lol.. but i'll have to double check it. i don't know if it matters, but the game i tested on was Witcher 3. i have read that since it's a demanding game that temps will rise, but i was assuming with watercooling 85 degrees wouldn't even be a thought.


Neither of my 980s exceed 50C playing Witcher 3.

Make sure the pump has full power. Also, you didnt say, are your fans on intake or exhaust on the gpu radiator?


----------



## awp4lyfe

sorry about that. i forgot - my fans are pointing inwards in my case. how do i check the pump's power?


----------



## HAL900

Gtx 980 is not 980ti
Stupidity is the establishment of water to gm204. You can choose for example twin Frozr V and will be just as well


----------



## Zimzoid

Hi all, My 92mm fan has started to make an annoying buzzing sound thinking about replacing it with a Noctua NF-B9 Redux 4 pin PWM should be OK? I have the little Gelid 4pin cable


----------



## HAL900

92 mm fan can turn to 1200rpm and is quiet


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> Gtx 980 is not 980ti
> Stupidity is the establishment of water to gm204. You can choose for example twin Frozr V and will be just as well


What are you babbling about? Of course a 980 isnt a 980ti. Its a rule of reference for him and based on many other applications of the G-10 to the 980ti I can assure him 80C is too high. Are you just trolling? The air coolers will not do as well. Clearly your AIO hater and thats fine, but the fact is they do great in this application where the heat from the gpu can be dumped straight out of the case. Please troll elsewhere.

ZIMzoid, turn the fans on the radiator for your GPU around to exhaust the heat from the gpu from the case.


----------



## HAL900

I wrote about it. on gtx 980 is not worth giving kraken because they are good enough air for example, MIS TWIN frozrV which will be under 1200rpm Games
What else 980 ti. There tpd is so high that the air is Unchecked










What is the reason for me to throw this card kraken? Temperature? Even nvidia wrote bios so that up to 80 degrees is ok


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> I wrote about it. on gtx 980 is not worth giving kraken because they are good enough air for example, MIS TWIN frozrV which will be under 1200rpm Games
> What else 980 ti. There tpd is so high that the air is Unchecked


I have to politely disagree.


----------



## HAL900

That's why you have to AIO louder than you had with Twin Frozr V


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> That's why you have to AIO louder than you had with Twin Frozr V


I honestly cant make a coherent sentence out of most of what you say,


----------



## HAL900

this topic is not only you


----------



## awp4lyfe

downloaded corsair link software. showing me that my gpu fan has 0RPMs, but all my fans are in fact spinning. anyone know a fix? maybe i plugged the fans into the wrong spots?


----------



## Mr-Dark

My first H105 arrive today











Now waiting 2*kraken G10 & another H105 and 3* MSI 980 Gaming


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> My first H105 arrive today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now waiting 2*kraken G10 & another H105 and 3* MSI 980 Gaming


So your going to use the g-10s for a tri-sli setup? You must have a huge case.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> So your going to use the g-10s for a tri-sli setup? You must have a huge case.


No. for SLI.. I just order 3 card's and i have one now so i can chose the best pair for SLI and max OC


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> No. for SLI.. I just order 3 card's and i have one now so i can chose the best pair for SLI and max OC


Gotya


----------



## danielwhitt

Here's my two g10s finally both in and working like a dream.


----------



## mamon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mamon*
> 
> does anyone here already did waterbracket like hg10 or g10 for msi gtx 970 4gb gaming?
> what should i need to buy if there is any mods involved
> 
> thank you


----------



## danielwhitt

Just out of interest, I've got my two r9 390's with kraken g10 brackets on. With the case fully closed the lower card runs around five degrees hotter than the top card, with the side Panel off I get the cards running identical temps and mirror each other perfectly, why would the lower card run hotter with just the side panel as difference. ????


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielwhitt*
> 
> Just out of interest, I've got my two r9 390's with kraken g10 brackets on. With the case fully closed the lower card runs around five degrees hotter than the top card, with the side Panel off I get the cards running identical temps and mirror each other perfectly, why would the lower card run hotter with just the side panel as difference. ????


Heat saturation. Thats why this mod works as well as it does. "most" of the heat is taken by the cold plate and dumped at the radiator. But there is still residual heat to build up in an an enclosed space. A fan to move air in that area would help if it bothers you, but The difference in temp is normal. I get a 3C variance with SLI 980s.


----------



## danielwhitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Heat saturation. Thats why this mod works as well as it does. "most" of the heat is taken by the cold plate and dumped at the radiator. But there is still residual heat to build up in an an enclosed space. A fan to move air in that area would help if it bothers you, but The difference in temp is normal. I get a 3C variance with SLI 980s.


The temp difference doesn't bother me, just made me wonder why, when with the case open and the fans setup on quiet mode they were perfectly in unison, with the case closed I have to ramp the fan up on the second card to get the same temps, but tbf it's better than the 95 degrees they were both getting too before and throttling, now it maxes out at 65 degrees benchmarking and 55 gaming. I've also go a fan directly over both cards blowing cold air on aswell. Thank ks for replying though. Appreciate it.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielwhitt*
> 
> The temp difference doesn't bother me, just made me wonder why, when with the case open and the fans setup on quiet mode they were perfectly in unison, with the case closed I have to ramp the fan up on the second card to get the same temps, but tbf it's better than the 95 degrees they were both getting too before and throttling, now it maxes out at 65 degrees benchmarking and 55 gaming. I've also go a fan directly over both cards blowing cold air on aswell. Thank ks for replying though. Appreciate it.


No problem on the reply, glad to answer any questions I can help on. The temperature variation between the dual gpu setups will exist whether you air cool, use something hybrid like the g-10 or watercool when its all closed up. One of the GPUs is simply more constricted space wise and will saturate with more heat than the others. Less room for dissipation.

That said, I think there is room for improvement on your numbers. There not bad at all but I think you can do better. Are the fans on the GPU radiators set to intake or exhaust?


----------



## danielwhitt

The lower card is set to exhaust out the back of the computer with the fan setup on pull config, the top card is set to exhaust aswell on the same config but exhausting into the case because of the only place I can put the rad and fan, if I set it to exhaust out the case, the temps go really high on the card because it is blocked directly from the fan filter then into the restricted mesh and corsair badge.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielwhitt*
> 
> The lower card is set to exhaust out the back of the computer with the fan setup on pull config, the top card is set to exhaust aswell on the same config but exhausting into the case because of the only place I can put the rad and fan, if I set it to exhaust out the case, the temps go really high on the card because it is blocked directly from the fan filter then into the restricted mesh and corsair badge.


Then I wouldnt fool with re configuring until you end up with a new case. Your temps are absolutely fine. But there is another 5c or so that could be shaved off if you really wanted to get picky. Its certainly nothing thats going to affect your performance. Just enjoy it.


----------



## danielwhitt

In comparison to what I was getting, which was 95 degrees and throttling, down to 65 in benchmarking and over clocked aswell. Gaming it's 55 so still happy, gonna try some different fans and try puch pull on both cards aswell, the only other thing to note, is the higher card uses a corsair h75 cooler and the lowest card a corsair h55 cooler, not sure if there is a flow rate difference due to a stronger pump etc.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello

Tomorrow my kraken should be here.. and i will install the H105 on the 980 Gaming... but i'm not sure about the thermal paste ? Corsair one good or i should use the Thermal Grizzly one ?



and those collecting dust here


----------



## Ultisym

You can use whatever your favorite is or the TIM that comes on the cold plate from the box. I forget the brand but it is good. You wont see a significant difference. If you are going to clean it off and install new TIM, you have several nice choices there. I use MX-4. Gelid has a large following too.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You can use whatever your favorite is or the TIM that comes on the cold plate from the box. I forget the brand but it is good. You wont see a significant difference. If you are going to clean it off and install new TIM, you have several nice choices there. I use MX-4. Gelid has a large following too.


Thanks bro, I seen a video for G10 installing and the guy add another pea on the gpu while the cooler clock have the corsair paste.. is that needed ?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Thanks bro, I seen a video for G10 installing and the guy add another pea on the gpu while the cooler clock have the corsair paste.. is that needed ?


If I understand you right you mean do you add TIM to the gpu die in addition to the paste on the H105 cold plate? If thats the question, no.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If I understand you right you mean do you add TIM to the gpu die in addition to the paste on the H105 cold plate? If thats the question, no.


Ya, that what i mean.. the guy add addition on the gpu while the cooler still brand new with corsair paste..


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> the guy add addition on the gpu while the cooler still brand new with corsair paste..


Thats a bad idea. To much can be as bad or worse than having none.


----------



## Mr-Dark

First G10 installed.. Result is a dream! i can't believe this









Some pic







And the result after 2 valley benchmark..



Still no 30c.. 29c max temp so far









them temp was 74c and 81c on VRM.. valley .. while now 29c and 50c on the VRM..

i think i can't fit another h105 on the bottom









Edit : After 30m on Bf4 99% gpu usage constant 30c is the peak


----------



## Mr-Dark

What is the best 140m Aio out there ? X41 ?

I test the H105 on the 780t and no way to install that on the bottom.. already order the another h105 but no way to use that


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> What is the best 140m Aio out there ? X41 ?
> 
> I test the H105 on the 780t and no way to install that on the bottom.. already order the another h105 but no way to use that


Only 140mm AIO I have any experience with is the Corsair H90. While it has performed great for me, I neither recommend for or against it. Most of them are about the same. I would go for the AIO that has the quietest pump and best fans out of the box. Product reviews should serve you well here.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Only 140mm AIO I have any experience with is the Corsair H90. While it has performed great for me, I neither recommend for or against it. Most of them are about the same. I would go for the AIO that has the quietest pump and best fans out of the box. Product reviews should serve you well here.


Thanks, I think the X41 is the way to go.. Long tube & thick 140m rad & strong pump ?.. who card about the fan's.. I have around 5 thermaltake ring fan's collecting dust here









what you think about the temp w/ H105 ? still can't break 30c under heavy load


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Thanks, I think the X41 is the way to go.. Long tube & thick 140m rad & strong pump ?.. who card about the fan's.. I have around 5 thermaltake ring fan's collecting dust here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what you think about the temp w/ H105 ? still can't break 30c under heavy load


Your numbers look great. Definitely another success for the G-10.


----------



## Slowpoke66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Thanks, I think the X41 is the way to go.. Long tube & thick 140m rad & strong pump ?.. who card about the fan's.. I have around 5 thermaltake ring fan's collecting dust here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what you think about the temp w/ H105 ? still can't break 30c under heavy load


Under 30c?? Man, I've never seen anything like that...
What are Your ambient and idle temps?

As a reference; my top card's at 32c in idle (ambient 22c) with a X41 with two fans in P&[email protected]


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slowpoke66*
> 
> Under 30c?? Man, I've never seen anything like that...
> What are Your ambient and idle temps?
> 
> As a reference; my top card's at 32c in idle (ambient 22c) with a X41 with two fans in P&[email protected]


Yea, while gaming i see 28c to 29c.. 30c on benchmark's only.. Ambient around 19c and the Idle temp is 20c and sometime 19c..


----------



## Hackwood

Just wondering... I have a FirePro W8100 that I want to overclock but the cooler doesn't seem to be able to take very much. Is the G10 compatible?


----------



## Heky

Hy guys. Has anyone tried the arctic liquid freezer with the G10 yet? It is an asetek design but i need to be shure it fits. I have ordered the G10, but am waiting with the order of the aio, to get confirmation it fits. Thanks


----------



## Zimzoid

Hope this works Pascal?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hackwood*
> 
> Just wondering... I have a FirePro W8100 that I want to overclock but the cooler doesn't seem to be able to take very much. Is the G10 compatible?


Got a picture of the GPU?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hope this works Pascal?


Have to see the memory size and placement but the G-10 should fit on the pascal PCB.


----------



## partypoison25

Not true, I have a H105 in the top, H100i in the front and another H105 on the bottom as intake.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> Not true, I have a H105 in the top, H100i in the front and another H105 on the bottom as intake.


Which post are you referring to?


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Which post are you referring to?


Post 5315 Sorry thought id quoted.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> Not true, I have a H105 in the top, H100i in the front and another H105 on the bottom as intake.


Thanks, that on the 780T ? which PSU you have there ? if you can give some picture that will be very nice.. right now i have G10 and H105 collecting dust here as no place for that on my 780t


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Thanks, that on the 780T ? which PSU you have there ? if you can give some picture that will be very nice.. right now i have G10 and H105 collecting dust here as no place for that on my 780t


I Have a 1000w Be quiet, Ill grab some pics. Wiring is a bit of a state though been having motherboard issues last few days.


----------



## partypoison25

Pls excuse the cables and mismatched fans, Ive been close to throwing it off a roof the past two days.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pls excuse the cables and mismatched fans, Ive been close to throwing it off a roof the past two days.


Wow, thanks bro.. the h105 on the top and the tube enough to reach the first card!!! maybe i can install the H115i on the front ( for the best temp on the cpu ) and install H105 for the top card on the top, and another h105 on the bottom..

which psu is that ?


----------



## Mr-Dark

So I did it finally









After around 3h.. the H105 fit on the Bottom..

Here is some picture's..

the new card



both card



Installed



the tube's



the result



Max temp 39c on the top card and 34c on the second card.. both should be at same temp but the bottom is very restricted for the Airflow.. so the H105 on the bottom have very low flow..

Bf4 and 980 SLI


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> So I did it finally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After around 3h.. the H105 fit on the Bottom..
> 
> Here is some picture's..
> 
> the new card
> 
> 
> 
> both card
> 
> 
> 
> Installed
> 
> 
> 
> the tube's
> 
> 
> 
> the result
> 
> 
> 
> Max temp 39c on the top card and 34c on the second card.. both should be at same temp but the bottom is very restricted for the Airflow.. so the H105 on the bottom have very low flow..
> 
> Bf4 and 980 SLI


The top card on the bottom and the bottom on the front! Why didnt I think of that, Ill be changing mine tomorrow to match!

My top card is always a few C higher too, I thing its the heat off the back of the bottom card heating the pump above.

Great work!


----------



## danielwhitt

I've got two g10s with R9 390s on, one has a corsair h75 on and the other has a corsair h55 on, I know the tubing and radiators are the same size, but the pumps are slightly different. Would this difference account for a 6 degree difference in card temps. It's the lower card that's running hotter than the higher card, normally it's the other way round in crossfire. Any ideas.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielwhitt*
> 
> I've got two g10s with R9 390s on, one has a corsair h75 on and the other has a corsair h55 on, I know the tubing and radiators are the same size, but the pumps are slightly different. Would this difference account for a 6 degree difference in card temps. It's the lower card that's running hotter than the higher card, normally it's the other way round in crossfire. Any ideas.


The H75 does have a better pump and push pull fans but I woudnt expect it to do much better than the H55. It may be responsible for 1or 2C of that difference at most I would think. What are your max temps?


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> The top card on the bottom and the bottom on the front! Why didnt I think of that, Ill be changing mine tomorrow to match!
> 
> My top card is always a few C higher too, I thing its the heat off the back of the bottom card heating the pump above.
> 
> Great work!


Yea, its good idea so both card has the best temp as Intake is the best for any Radiator.. let me know how yo go


----------



## Mr-Dark

So, I got an X41 kraken today and i install that on the bottom card and here is the result.. Corsair H105 vs NZXT X41 both intake .. the X41 with 2 Thermaltake 140m ring fan and the H105 with 2 Thermaltake 120m Ring fan..

the result with H105



The GPU 2 at 37c after 2 Valley benchmark.. now the X41 result



GPU 2 at 39c after 2 Valley benchmark.. so its 2c only between the X41 and the H105









here is the X41 installed



Still can't decide which to keep...


----------



## Jaffat1982

Hi there

I don't actually own a G10 yet but will by the weekend!









I've got a Corsair H75 cooling my CPU at the moment, but I've just picked up a second hand Swiftech H320 for £60. My plan is to swap the Corsair out with the Swiftech and buy a G10 to combine with the H75 to cool my GPU since the Swiftech won't be compatible with the G10.

My plans for the future were to expand the H320 loop with another radiator, reservoir if needed and a GPU block. Rather than buy a full cover block that will tie me to my GPU I wondered if any regular waterblocks - not AIO coolers - were compatible with the G10. I love the 980 classified but think I'll want to upgrade too soon for an £80+ full-cover block to be viable, would rather stick to G10 / GPU-only block combo, that way I could still use it on my new GPU.

Thanks for any help.

John


----------



## gaffers77

Hi guys,

I can't get the forum search function to work, so apologies if this has been done already -

I have a KFA2 GTX 770, and not sure if it's a reference board. Reviews don't seem to shed any light, and even the KFA2 site doesn't list it any more in their 700 series cards.

It's NOT the white edition with three fans, it's the darker one with two.

Does anyone know? I picked up a G10 cheap, so I'm weighing up options. Water cooling on my 4670k is awesome, so I'd like to get something on my GPU if poss, but don't want to buy a cooler, or mess about taking off the stock one, until I know if the bracket will fit the card.

Cheers,


----------



## gaffers77

Hi guys,

I can't get the forum search function to work, so apologies if this has been done already -

I have a KFA2 GTX 770, and not sure if it's a reference board. Reviews don't seem to shed any light, and even the KFA2 site doesn't list it any more in their 700 series cards.

It's NOT the white edition with three fans, it's the darker one with two.

Does anyone know? I picked up a G10 cheap, so I'm weighing up options. Water cooling on my 4670k is awesome, so I'd like to get something on my GPU if poss, but don't want to buy a cooler, or mess about taking off the stock one, until I know if the bracket will fit the card.

Cheers,


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gaffers77*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I can't get the forum search function to work, so apologies if this has been done already -
> 
> I have a KFA2 GTX 770, and not sure if it's a reference board. Reviews don't seem to shed any light, and even the KFA2 site doesn't list it any more in their 700 series cards.
> 
> It's NOT the white edition with three fans, it's the darker one with two.
> 
> Does anyone know? I picked up a G10 cheap, so I'm weighing up options. Water cooling on my 4670k is awesome, so I'd like to get something on my GPU if poss, but don't want to buy a cooler, or mess about taking off the stock one, until I know if the bracket will fit the card.
> 
> Cheers,


http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/kfa2_geforce_gtx_770_ex_oc_review,2.html

I do not see any midplate. The G-10 should fit without issue. There is no back plate either so you will use the mini back plate that comes with the G10. Make sure there is a heatsink mounted on the VRMs of the GPU. I cannot tell from these photos whether it is integrated into the cooler or mounted to the PCB. If not mounted to the PCB you will need to add some heat sinks to the VRMs. The G-10 will work great on your 770. I had the G-10s mounted on a pair of SLI 770s with amazing results.

From this image, it looks like you may have a heat sink mounted to the PCB for the VRMS. http://www.guru3d.com/index.php?ct=articles&action=file&id=4476&admin=0a8fcaad6b03da6a6895d1ada2e171002a287bc1


----------



## CarnageHimura

Hey guys! my r9 290 Windforce is starting to get old, and I'm considering installa G10 on it, as I have read all of you recomend install those little heatsinks on the vrm's, another thing that I need to know about this product?

Thank you in advance!!


----------



## dartmaul15

First of all, sorry if this has been answered before.

I'm looking into building with the g10 and a 280mm AIO kit (either corsair h110 or x61 kraken), and i'm kinda wondering what performance I can expect.

Especially noise levels interrest me, as i want my PC to be more silent. Is it mostly dependant on selected fans (i plan to replace the stock fans on the AIO kits)? Is it for example feasible to run PWM fans at ~50% load (obviously at the cost of higher temps)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartmaul15*
> 
> First of all, sorry if this has been answered before.
> 
> I'm looking into building with the g10 and a 280mm AIO kit (either corsair h110 or x61 kraken), and i'm kinda wondering what performance I can expect.
> 
> Especially noise levels interrest me, as i want my PC to be more silent. Is it mostly dependant on selected fans (i plan to replace the stock fans on the AIO kits)? Is it for example feasible to run PWM fans at ~50% load (obviously at the cost of higher temps)


The larger radiator will let you run the fans at a lower rpm but overall your not looking at but 2 to 6C max from going from something like a 140mm to a .280mm radiator. It will help with cooling and noise levels. But not alot. Let your budget rule your choice. Better fans will in fact help too.


----------



## dartmaul15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The larger radiator will let you run the fans at a lower rpm but overall your not looking at but 2 to 6C max from going from something like a 140mm to a .280mm radiator. It will help with cooling and noise levels. But not alot. Let your budget rule your choice. Better fans will in fact help too.


Well, my budget is not an issue, that's for sure. It's not enough for a silent watercooling loop (even if that'd be ideal), that's why I wonder what I can get out of this.

Let's say for example I run Akasa apache black (this: http://www.akasa.com.tw/search.php?seed=AK-FN062 ) in push pull at ~800 rpm, would that be viable in order to make things silent?


----------



## Drunken1

Installed yesterday on a pair of EVGA 970 SC's. From videos I watched, I saw they installed heat sinks to left of water pump that were out of range from G10 fan, so installed 4 low profile copper heat sinks on each card. Installation was easy enough, no problems with the G10 kits.

NZXT s340
6700k - Deepcool Captain 120
Gigabyte z170x Gaming 3
2 x 8gb Corsair Vengeance DDR4 2800mhz
240gb SSD, 2 TB HD
EVGA 970 sc SLI - Corsair H55 - G10
EVGA G2 850w









idle temps. I didn't snap pic, but while watching during gaming, the main load GPU1, never got above 47c.


----------



## danielwhitt

Quick question, ive played around with my radiator setup on my crossfire msi r9 390 8g gaming cards to try and sort the temps out as best as i can, and ive finally settled with a higher idle temp, which now averages around 35 instead of 25 degress, infavor of a lower max temps, now maxes out around 55 instead of 65, with a custom fan profile in msi. If i run the cards on the standard fan profile built into the card, they are silent until they reach 65 and then max out at 75 and idle a lot higher aswell. do you think the higher idle temps but lower max is the way to go, the cards throttle at 95 degrees so its a massive drop from what i was getting before or go with the silent mode and higher temps. even in silent mode they dont pass 75 so thats still 20 degrees lower. just a random question, both rads now exhaust out of the case, the top card is in the pull config and the bottom card is push pull so i can get the card temps the same due to the only places i can put the rads.any thoughts would be great


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielwhitt*
> 
> Quick question, ive played around with my radiator setup on my crossfire msi r9 390 8g gaming cards to try and sort the temps out as best as i can, and ive finally settled with a higher idle temp, which now averages around 35 instead of 25 degress, infavor of a lower max temps, now maxes out around 55 instead of 65, with a custom fan profile in msi. If i run the cards on the standard fan profile built into the card, they are silent until they reach 65 and then max out at 75 and idle a lot higher aswell. do you think the higher idle temps but lower max is the way to go, the cards throttle at 95 degrees so its a massive drop from what i was getting before or go with the silent mode and higher temps. even in silent mode they dont pass 75 so thats still 20 degrees lower. just a random question, both rads now exhaust out of the case, the top card is in the pull config and the bottom card is push pull so i can get the card temps the same due to the only places i can put the rads.any thoughts would be great


Yes the higher idle temps are a non issue. I ran into the same effect with the GTX 980s im running. Some of it I chalk up to my running multiple monitors. That always increases the idle temps a little. Sounds like you have it dialed in nicely. Time to have fun.


----------



## danielwhitt

Thought as much, just wanted peice of mind really, as I've got it really clean looking and the temps sorted, just took ages of messing around and different configs.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielwhitt*
> 
> Thought as much, just wanted peice of mind really, as I've got it really clean looking and the temps sorted, just took ages of messing around and different configs.


Thats what it takes to do it right. Ive gotten the air circuit in my particular case optimized over three different dual GPU setups, you learn faster than me apparently. Your numbers are great though. Time to work them and have some fun. You should consider giving multiple screen gaming a tryout even though im sure that 27" screen is nice too.


----------



## danielwhitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Thats what it takes to do it right. Ive gotten the air circuit in my particular case optimized over three different dual GPU setups, you learn faster than me apparently. Your numbers are great though. Time to work them and have some fun. You should consider giving multiple screen gaming a tryout even though im sure that 27" screen is nice too.


it has been worth it and runs like a dream. cost alot but need it to last a while.
as for multiple screen gaming, was gonna look at that or a large 4k monitor because irronically that acer monitor is awful, suffers massively with an overdrive issue which cannot be software altered on the monitor and causes horrible ghosting which is irritating the crap outta me.
would my system run a couple of 1440p monitors ok without a massive performance drop. ????


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielwhitt*
> 
> would my system run a couple of 1440p monitors ok without a massive performance drop. ????


Your system should do very well in general at that resolution.
There is always a game or two that may be an exception but all you have to do is bump a couple settings back a little and it will be fine if you have to do anything at all. Adding a monitor will take a bit more of a hit but you should still be good.


----------



## danielwhitt

What size would you go for on a dual monitors ??


----------



## Ultisym

I dont think I would go bigger than 27". Bigger than that and you might as well go big on a single screen. Just my opinion. I have 3 24" in surround and I could see going 27s but not really any bigger. It is a lot of real estate.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello

if someone want to see how the 980s and H105 perform here is a few minute from my pc for The Division game


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> if someone want to see how the 980s and H105 perform here is a few minute from my pc for The Division game


Whats your max gaming temps.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Whats your max gaming temps.


Usually 41c on the top card and 38c on the bottom card


----------



## simon771

So I have my Kraken G10 and Kraken X31 just laying around.

When I ordered them , I tried to use them on my R9 390 nitro with backplate GPU, but after few secounds of benchmark, system would crash. Well not entire system, just screen would go black ---> no video input on monitor etc. After force reboot, picture is back. But once GPU usage goes up, I will get black screen again.
I had my HWmonitor and GPU-Z on to minitor temperatures at that time. Core temp was below 50°C at all time, but VRM temps would go up to 90°C pretty fast.

So I think my card is crashing with this set up either because VRM1, VRM2 or VRAM heat problems.
As I was told, VRAM doesn't acctually need any kind of cooling, since it never gets realy hot so that shouldn't be problem. At least that's what peoples on linus tech forum said to me.

But for VRM1 and VRM2 cooling, I need some solution to fix it.
So I would like to ask for some advice about VRM cooling, or if anyone had same experience as I did, and he managed to solve problem. Please share it with me









I know sapphire makes good cards with decent cooling, but one of my stock fan have bad fan bearing and it's really anoying me, so I'm trying to get solution for this,

I just hope to get that G10 + X31 working toegther with my r9 390.

Any kind of suggestions/ideas/feedback is welcome


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simon771*
> 
> So I have my Kraken G10 and Kraken X31 just laying around.
> 
> When I ordered them , I tried to use them on my R9 390 nitro with backplate GPU, but after few secounds of benchmark, system would crash. Well not entire system, just screen would go black ---> no video input on monitor etc. After force reboot, picture is back. But once GPU usage goes up, I will get black screen again.
> I had my HWmonitor and GPU-Z on to minitor temperatures at that time. Core temp was below 50°C at all time, but VRM temps would go up to 90°C pretty fast.
> 
> So I think my card is crashing with this set up either because VRM1, VRM2 or VRAM heat problems.
> As I was told, VRAM doesn't acctually need any kind of cooling, since it never gets realy hot so that shouldn't be problem. At least that's what peoples on linus tech forum said to me.
> 
> But for VRM1 and VRM2 cooling, I need some solution to fix it.
> So I would like to ask for some advice about VRM cooling, or if anyone had same experience as I did, and he managed to solve problem. Please share it with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know sapphire makes good cards with decent cooling, but one of my stock fan have bad fan bearing and it's really anoying me, so I'm trying to get solution for this,
> 
> I just hope to get that G10 + X31 working toegther with my r9 390.
> 
> Any kind of suggestions/ideas/feedback is welcome


Make sure the pump and the fan on the G-10 have max power and are not limited by settings in the bios.
Make sure the cold plate is seated evenly on the GPU die.
Make sure there is a heat sink on the VRMs and plenty of air is flowing over them.


----------



## jmdulay

Hi all,

I know this may have been asked before but I just wanted to know, is it really necessary to buy VRM heatsinks if I want to use the G10? I don't plan on running Kombustor or Furmark.

I have a 980 Ti reference card so there's nothing unique there. I asked this because I don't know if such heatsinks are for sale where I'm from. I don't mind stock clocks on my card, so if I won't be able to OC, that's fine with me.

Using a Define Nano S and I have a Kraken X31 if that helps.

Thanks!


----------



## anti-duck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmdulay*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I know this may have been asked before but I just wanted to know, is it really necessary to buy VRM heatsinks if I want to use the G10?
> 
> I have a 980 Ti reference card so there's nothing unique there. I asked this because I don't know if such heatsinks are for sale where I'm from. I don't mind stock clocks on my card, so if I won't be able to OC, that's fine with me.
> 
> Using a Define Nano S and I have a Kraken X31 if that helps.
> 
> Thanks!


You could leave the stock heatspreader on and use a copper shim. It's not too bad without heatsinks on the VRM though, the little fan will still cool the VRM better than the reference cooler at the same fan speed.

I would have suggested EVGA's hybrid kit if you didn't already have the X31.


----------



## jmdulay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-duck*
> 
> You could leave the stock heatspreader on and use a copper shim. It's not too bad without heatsinks on the VRM though, the little fan will still cool the VRM better than the reference cooler at the same fan speed.


Thanks for the response! I'm actually considering the EVGA Hybrid Kit since it looks like a much easier installation and I don't really have to worry about additional heat sinks. But yeah, having the X31, it's a shame if I don't consider the G10 as well.


----------



## mr2cam

So here is the million dollar question, will the G10 work with the new 1080?







I'm already foaming at the mouth to get my hands on one of these and see how it performs behind an H105.


----------



## Pushtothelimit

Hi guys! i bought a NZXT g10 and i need some help, i was wondering who tried installing them on a ZOTAC GTX970 Amp omega core edition, it has a backlate and i wanna keep the backplate on.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> So here is the million dollar question, will the G10 work with the new 1080?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm already foaming at the mouth to get my hands on one of these and see how it performs behind an H105.


A reference design "should" work, unless Nvidia changed it, which I HIGHLY doubt.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pushtothelimit*
> 
> Hi guys! i bought a NZXT g10 and i need some help, i was wondering who tried installing them on a ZOTAC GTX970 Amp omega core edition, it has a backlate and i wanna keep the backplate on.


No problem keeping your back plate. Just peel the foam off the next mini back plate or dont even use it and get some appropriate sized washers.I skipped the nzxt mini back plate on every gpu ive installed on that came with a back plate. As for the rest of yopur GPU. Which side of the GPU die are the VRMs on? Rear of the card or output side? Also, is the VRM heat sink currently used by ZOTAC mounted on the PCB or integrated into the cooler?


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> So here is the million dollar question, will the G10 work with the new 1080?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm already foaming at the mouth to get my hands on one of these and see how it performs behind an H105.


It looks like it will fit, look here http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-reference-pcb-photos.html


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> It looks like it will fit, look here http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-reference-pcb-photos.html


Its almost a certainty that it will fit. I say almost because it is a significant die shrink but i doubt they are re engineering the spacing of the cooler mount holes. It would make no sense to make the mount area smaller as it would provide less strength for the various heavy coolers they use. But it would be possible with a back plate. Still, I seriously doubt any change in the cooler mount spacing. Ive used G-10s on my sli770s, 970s and now 980s. One of the thing thats nice about this is you can use it across a very broad range of GPUs.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> One of the thing thats nice about this is you can use it across a very broad range of GPUs.


Thats why I chose the Kraken over the Corsair solution.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Any idea if the kraken will fit 1080 I think it will since 1080s pcb is very similar to a 980s one and kraken is compatible from 560 to titan x.


----------



## -Overlord-

Hello overclockers!

New to the topic and to the board too, I just wanted to share my knowledge with the installation of this fantastic universal bracket on a Gygabyte 390 G1 with a Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performer C kit.

Here are some pictures I took after the almost flawless installation:



As you can see on the following pics I managed to keep the original backplate by just applying the NZXT own plate on the top of it; it was a breeze since the "squared" screws went inside the original backplate's holes with only some force applied.



And finally the result, keep in mind the radiator has only one fan in pull configuration and always at minimum speed, 30 degrees and whispering quiet is very impressive for me!



Here it is, hope to be useful for someone and if you have questions feel free to ask


----------



## ondoy

will this fit a strix 980Ti ?


----------



## Kold

It will.


----------



## catbeef

i searched this thread for the word "shim" and got through 10 of 24 pages, most of the posts only contained the word inside a quote and didn't actually reference it, so that kinda killed my enthusiasm a bit









i have a sapphire tri-x r9 290, and the tri-x cooler is awesome, but my new home is a lot warmer than my old one (A+ rated insulation really makes a disgusting difference come summer.. yikes) and the noise from the fans is just getting a bit too much, and the extra heat being dumped into the already hot and well insulated room, well it is all adding up to be a bit too much for a cold-weather lover like myself









so i have ordered me kraken g10, sourced a corsair h55 (i plan to stick a spare nf-f12 pwm on the rad, already have 2 of these on my h100i and they are so quiet <3) and even treated myself to the little gelid vrm heatsink kit. i even cut myself some little aluminium sinks for the vram because i got bored and had a little extra aluminium laying about.

so after all that my question, which googling does not help find answers to (literally every google result i find is someone asking the same question and being told to google it.. google-ception is here), is - will i require a shim or will my h55 make good contact with the gpu?

also another minor question, i keep hearing the vram doesn't really need any special cooling, but these little things are so cute. any suggestions for what kinda thermal padding to use? could i just use the pads off the tri-x cooler?

thanks! i look forward to a quieter and slightly cooler summer!


----------



## Ultisym

Ok, a shim is nothing more than a copper square that fits between the GPU die and the cold plate of the pump your using. It may be necessary if the vendor who built your graphics card uses a mid plate because these sometimes sit a little higher than the actual die of the GPU. Do you have any photos of your GPU with the air cooler removed?

As for the heat, the G-10 will make your graphics card run cooler but the room you are using the G-10 in is going to get warmer. It dumps the heat straight out of the case into the room and you will feel the additional heat.

As for the VRAM, you do not have to add special cooling for this, the fan on the G-10 bracket should be plenty to keep the VRAM cool UNLESS you are overclocking it. Its up to you if you want to fool with putting heat sinks on the VRAM. Ive done it before, i dont bother with it anymore.

Make sure the VRMs (not to be confused with VRAM) DOES have a heat sink.


----------



## catbeef

ah i appreciate the reply, i know what a shim is, i just want to know if i should source one now and not be surprised later. sadly don't have a picture, but the 290s get so hot i imagine someone with a sapphire tri-x version must've used a kraken and have a definitive answer. i think maybe google have just cookie'd me too much because no matter what i search for now i am getting the same unhelpful results







- going to continue my google adventure in some private browsing mode.

again ya ya, i know, but my situation will have the heat being sent to a radiator and blown straight out the window as opposed to just being blown haphazardly around the case, it should be at least a little cooler as long as the wind doesn't change









gonna heatsink everything up as i am overclocking. thanks for confirming that









edit: woohoo googling in private mode seemed to help and actually found an answer in this thread! no shim. i'll brace myself to source one just in case (sod's law and all), but it was really bugging me that i couldn't find a straight answer!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

incognito ur chrome window if ur afraid of cookies.


----------



## catbeef

yep, that is what let me find different results with the same search terms -.- thanks google

one new curiosity, i read somewhere in this thread about people using pwm > vga to run the kraken g10 fan off the vga header (good idea!) but at the same time.. this is a 3-pn fan so no pwm control (right?).
i only ask as people were recommend setting the fan to 80% - will trixx recognise the lack of a pwm signal and instead adjust the speed via power supplied? as long as the lil fan is able to do its job unimpeded i guess it isn't super important, just curious









i already have a h100i on my cpu so the plan is to connect the h55 rad fan (an nf-f12) to the h100i pump, group that fan with the gpu temp in corsair link and set a custom curve that way.

well, hopefully my h55 arrives tomorrow and i can get the whole thing going - just trying to get all the ducks in a row while i wait. not shy of experimenting by myself when i actually have the stuff though. ah, eager for the tri-x hair-dryer to be banished to the wardrobe


----------



## throwaway2468

While disassembling my 290X G10 setup yesterday I found that part of the foam pad on the backplate actually melted and fused onto the back of my graphics card. Now I have this foam stuck to the PCB as well as half a foam pad, which is making the GPU screws unstable. What kind of foam can I replace the one on the backplate with? Also any tips on getting this foam off?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *throwaway2468*
> 
> While disassembling my 290X G10 setup yesterday I found that part of the foam pad on the backplate actually melted and fused onto the back of my graphics card. Now I have this foam stuck to the PCB as well as half a foam pad, which is making the GPU screws unstable. What kind of foam can I replace the one on the backplate with? Also any tips on getting this foam off?


I would probably just go for a double sided thermal pad/tape to replace it. As for getting the old stuff off, try a heat gun or a blow dryer but be careful not to get it to hot and be sure to use static charge protection when handling it.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbeef*
> 
> yep, that is what let me find different results with the same search terms -.- thanks google
> 
> one new curiosity, i read somewhere in this thread about people using pwm > vga to run the kraken g10 fan off the vga header (good idea!) but at the same time.. this is a 3-pn fan so no pwm control (right?).
> i only ask as people were recommend setting the fan to 80% - will trixx recognise the lack of a pwm signal and instead adjust the speed via power supplied? as long as the lil fan is able to do its job unimpeded i guess it isn't super important, just curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i already have a h100i on my cpu so the plan is to connect the h55 rad fan (an nf-f12) to the h100i pump, group that fan with the gpu temp in corsair link and set a custom curve that way.
> 
> well, hopefully my h55 arrives tomorrow and i can get the whole thing going - just trying to get all the ducks in a row while i wait. not shy of experimenting by myself when i actually have the stuff though. ah, eager for the tri-x hair-dryer to be banished to the wardrobe


Hi, I used this http://gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=60 and replaced the 92mm fan with a Noctua Redux 92mm pwm 4pin fan and can control the fan via MSIafterburner


----------



## Hazardz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Overlord-*
> 
> And finally the result, keep in mind the radiator has only one fan in pull configuration and always at minimum speed, 30 degrees and whispering quiet is very impressive for me!
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is, hope to be useful for someone and if you have questions feel free to ask


I stopped using Furmark. When I was testing my R9 290 with an H55, it got up to about 50°C, it killed my card.


----------



## Ultisym

Yeah I dont believe anyone recommends it anymore. I do keep a copy of Furmark around though I only use it to test the PSUs. And only run it for a short period of time. To be fair it only maxes out the GPU so if the GPU dies there was a flaw to begin with (short of cooking your card). But ive seen several people that Furmark did in fact finish off their GPUs. Been a long time.


----------



## mgmonkey

I was running my Kraken on my former GTX 780 and build a new system a couple of months ago with a GTX 980ti. The ACX cooler was dumping way too much hot air into my case and also heating up the plexiglass side of my case quite a bit so I threw my Kraken on.


----------



## -Overlord-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hazardz*
> 
> I stopped using Furmark. When I was testing my R9 290 with an H55, it got up to about 50°C, it killed my card.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah I dont believe anyone recommends it anymore. I do keep a copy of Furmark around though I only use it to test the PSUs. And only run it for a short period of time. To be fair it only maxes out the GPU so if the GPU dies there was a flaw to begin with (short of cooking your card). But ive seen several people that Furmark did in fact finish off their GPUs. Been a long time.


Yes I'm with you guys, in fact if you notice I used the quick benchmark that lasts no more than 2 minutes, only to see the temp difference; without any cooling on the VRMs I was very afraid of frying everythig









BTW do you think that will ever exist a game that taxes our cards similar to this kind of bench?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Overlord-*
> 
> BTW do you think that will ever exist a game that taxes our cards similar to this kind of bench?


Ive yet to see a GPU run that hard in a game but its possible of course. If it does, I doubt the game would require it to stay there long. IMO It would likely be numerous short duration sessions.


----------



## HAL900

http://www.ozone3d.net/gpudb/score.php?which=264573

furmark no limit TPD


----------



## Nautilus

Any word on GTX 1080 compatibility?


----------



## TPLP

Hey guys,

New user, but thanks to this board and Google I landed on the G10 for my latest build:




























Corsair H75s mounted outboard with two MSI Golden Edition 980 Ti cards. The case is a Fractal Design Node 804 that I attacked with a Dremel. Core i7-6700K is part of what's holding this build back. The cards themselves are sitting at about 60 degrees when stressed -- with some patience I could clock them higher. The fans never go above 40%.

3DMark: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/12111613


----------



## clubfoot

New user. cpu H110i and gpu H75s. One 7950 needed a shim, temps under load are 50 for the upper card rear intake and 46 for the lower card bottom intake at stock settings.

.


----------



## abgersaurus

Hi guys!

I'm having a bit of trouble it seems









I have 980 Ti (EVGA SC+ ACX 2.0) and I installed a G10 with a X31, but I'm not really sure that my temps are right...

My ambient temp is around 21c-22.5c and idle my card is around 39c and under load it is 65-67c (98-100%load)

is this temperature fine, because I've seen alot of people having only 55c or even as low as high 40's how can that be???

The only thing that I can think about is the copper shim that my card needs which is 1.5mm thick and that should fit right?

so to sum it all up I have:

checked that everything fits correctly (x)

applied the correct amount of thermal paste (?) MX-4

extra heatsinks for the VRM (pure copper from enzotech)

good airflow (x)

changed location of the rad (x)

running pump at max speed (x)

any suggestions or answers?

kind regards


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abgersaurus*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I'm having a bit of trouble it seems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 980 Ti (EVGA SC+ ACX 2.0) and I installed a G10 with a X31, but I'm not really sure that my temps are right...
> 
> My ambient temp is around 21c-22.5c and idle my card is around 39c and under load it is 65-67c (98-100%load)
> 
> is this temperature fine, because I've seen alot of people having only 55c or even as low as high 40's how can that be???
> 
> The only thing that I can think about is the copper shim that my card needs which is 1.5mm thick and that should fit right?
> 
> so to sum it all up I have:
> 
> checked that everything fits correctly (x)
> 
> applied the correct amount of thermal paste (?) MX-4
> 
> extra heatsinks for the VRM (pure copper from enzotech)
> 
> good airflow (x)
> 
> changed location of the rad (x)
> 
> running pump at max speed (x)
> 
> any suggestions or answers?
> 
> kind regards


Very nice looking Rig. MX-4 is good stuff, thats what im using right now.

While your temps are in the safe zone, I agree they should be in the 50s/low 60s max gaming. Are you certain the shim you used was thick enough to clear the mid plate? My suggestion would be to start over. When you disassemble it pay attention to the patterns of your thermal paste on the die, shim and cold plate and go from there. Post some pics if you would like another set of eyes to give an opinion. Sounds like it just isnt seated properly.


----------



## abgersaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Very nice looking Rig.
> 
> While your temps are in the safe zone, I agree they should be in the 50s/low 60s max gaming. Are you certain the shim you used was thick enough to clear the mid plate? My suggestion would be to start over. When you disassemble it pay attention to the patterns of your thermal paste on the die, shim and cold plate and go from there. Post some pics if you would like another set of eyes to give an opinion. Sounds like it just isnt seated properly.


I am very sure that it clears the midplate and makes contact with the cooler itself it seems seated by im not 100% sure as it it kind of hard to see


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abgersaurus*
> 
> I am very sure that it clears the midplate and makes contact with the cooler itself it seems seated by im not 100% sure as it it kind of hard to see


Well certainly check the basics, its easy to overlook things when we get in a hurry. Make sure the pump is getting full power. Make sure the fan is too for the purpose of this troubleshooting venture. Are you exhausting the fans on the radiator for the GPU?


----------



## abgersaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Well certainly check the basics, its easy to overlook things when we get in a hurry. Make sure the pump is getting full power. Make sure the fan is too for the purpose of this troubleshooting venture. Are you exhausting the fans on the radiator for the GPU?


yes the rad is used as an exhaust and is in a pull configuration and the pump is plugged directly into a 12v molex to 3-pin fan adapter, the fan has its own curve in speedfan 45-80%

I will redo EVERYTHING first thing in the morning right now i'm sooooo tired


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abgersaurus*
> 
> yes the rad is used as an exhaust and is in a pull configuration and the pump is plugged directly into a 12v molex to 3-pin fan adapter, the fan has its own curve in speedfan 45-80%
> 
> I will redo EVERYTHING first thing in the morning right now i'm sooooo tired


LOL, sleep well, those numbers are certainly not posing a threat to your hardware. I hate to always be suggesting pulling it back apart to people, but the patterns or lack of patterns left in the thermal paste is as valuable as fingerprints to crime when determining if the problem is an installation error.


----------



## Ziver

Is it compatible with GTX 1080 ?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> Is it compatible with GTX 1080 ?


It should be, but know one here knows for sure yet as no ones bought one. While I'm nearly certain, I would recommend sending a message to the the tech support on the NZXT website and verify compatibility before buying just to be sure.


----------



## abgersaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> LOL, sleep well, those numbers are certainly not posing a threat to your hardware. I hate to always be suggesting pulling it back apart to people, but the patterns or lack of patterns left in the thermal paste is as valuable as fingerprints to crime when determining if the problem is an installation error.


ok, I redid everything this time instead of using the cross pattern with the thermal paste and making the shim slide all about I used a "finger-spread" method and made a nice even layer so far my idle temp has dropped from 39 to 35 i'm not sure about the load temp yet since I haven't played any games atm

Here are some more pictures, pardon me for my crude thermal paste spreading (first time







)

I can't seem to upload the pics directly so here's a link








http://imgur.com/a/twaB5


----------



## HAL900

copper shim It does not work well . They are big losses temp


----------



## abgersaurus

OK, for me it seems to have helped that I reapplied my thermal compound and it went from 39c idle and 67c load to 35c idle and 62c load.









So definitely a difference, keep in mind that I am using a copper shim because of my card has a midplate.


----------



## HAL900

EVGA this cooling is 83 degrees instead of 67
And the use of copper plates causes a loss of 20 degrees


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abgersaurus*
> 
> OK, for me it seems to have helped that I reapplied my thermal compound and it went from 39c idle and 67c load to 35c idle and 62c load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So definitely a difference, keep in mind that I am using a copper shim because of my card has a midplate.


Those temps aren't bad. Though I'm wondering why you went with an AIO on the gpu when you have a perfectly good custom loop in the rig? Even using a universal gpu block would've gotten it down to the mid-high 40's under load.

But I'm in the same boat, so it's not like I can really say anything.


----------



## abgersaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Those temps aren't bad. Though I'm wondering why you went with an AIO on the gpu when you have a perfectly good custom loop in the rig? Even using a universal gpu block would've gotten it down to the mid-high 40's under load.
> 
> But I'm in the same boat, so it's not like I can really say anything.


I was planning on using my kraken on another card when ever i'm going to upgrade, but a full custom loop would be nice


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abgersaurus*
> 
> I was planning on using my kraken on another card when ever i'm going to upgrade, but a full custom loop would be nice


Thats been on of the things I have enjoyed about the Kraken/AIO mod. Ive used the same brackets and AIOs across three different pair of GPUs so far.


----------



## abgersaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Thats been on of the things I have enjoyed about the Kraken/AIO mod. Ive used the same brackets and AIOs across three different pair of GPUs so far.


I originally had 2 780's and bought my 980 ti used and thought about swapping that for a 1080, but now i might wait for a potential 1080Ti or whatever and then I could re-use the kraken or then get a custom block, but until then I will stick with my 980 ti and maybe OC it since it has an ASIC of 80.6%


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abgersaurus*
> 
> I originally had 2 780's and bought my 980 ti used and thought about swapping that for a 1080, but now i might wait for a potential 1080Ti or whatever and then I could re-use the kraken or then get a custom block, but until then I will stick with my 980 ti and maybe OC it since it has an ASIC of 80.6%


I am going through the same dilemma myself. I have 2x 290x and 3 120mm radiators for the CPUs and GPUs. Both the GPUs have the Kraken G10, but the 290x is a HOT GPU. The fan noise gets to be a bit much and in the Fractal Design R5, I can only fit about 2x push pull rads and one pull rad (with the fan being on the outside of the case). I might just do a custom loop in the future when I replace the GPUs.


----------



## Badexample

Anybody knows if the Kraken G10 is compatible with the newer GTX 1080? Do I need to be the guinea pig?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badexample*
> 
> Anybody knows if the Kraken G10 is compatible with the newer GTX 1080? Do I need to be the guinea pig?


We actually do need a guinea pig. Im almost positive it will work like a charm, but you can never be 100% til its actually done.


----------



## HazyDavy

Does anyone know the screw or thread size for the Kraken G10? I lost one of the top nuts (E) and am looking for a replacement.


----------



## Pushtothelimit

I have a Zotac GTX 970 AMP Omega Core Edtion. it has a back plate. i was wondering if i could keep the back plate on. without buying any extra screws etc.

*•Front View•*
https://www.google.com/search?q=Zotac+GTX+970+AMP+Omega+Core+Edition&client=firefox-b-ab&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjzqoLz8obNAhVDJJQKHb2pAOYQ_AUICSgD&biw=1920&bih=971#imgrc=WxuiBRuxdbyWEM%3A

*•Back View•*

https://www.google.com/search?q=Zotac+GTX+970+AMP+Omega+Core+Edition&client=firefox-b-ab&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjzqoLz8obNAhVDJJQKHb2pAOYQ_AUICSgD&biw=1920&bih=971#tbm=isch&q=Zotac+GTX+970+AMP+Omega+Core+Edition+back+plate&imgrc=1d0IRx0MSC6JuM%3A


----------



## Pushtothelimit

did you have any trouble putting it on? with the back plate?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pushtothelimit*
> 
> I have a Zotac GTX 970 AMP Omega Core Edtion. it has a back plate. i was wondering if i could keep the back plate on. without buying any extra screws etc.
> 
> *•Front View•*
> https://www.google.com/search?q=Zotac+GTX+970+AMP+Omega+Core+Edition&client=firefox-b-ab&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjzqoLz8obNAhVDJJQKHb2pAOYQ_AUICSgD&biw=1920&bih=971#imgrc=WxuiBRuxdbyWEM%3A
> 
> *•Back View•*
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=Zotac+GTX+970+AMP+Omega+Core+Edition&client=firefox-b-ab&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjzqoLz8obNAhVDJJQKHb2pAOYQ_AUICSgD&biw=1920&bih=971#tbm=isch&q=Zotac+GTX+970+AMP+Omega+Core+Edition+back+plate&imgrc=1d0IRx0MSC6JuM%3A


You should have no problem keeping the back plate. You have a couple options. Take the foam pad off the back of the mini backplate that NZXT provides. It wont be needed with the existing backplate in place. Secondly, you can skip the nzxt back plate all together. Just get some washers so the screw heads will not pull through the PCB. This is the option I usually go with.


----------



## Pushtothelimit

okay thanks ! il go with the second option.


----------



## Pushtothelimit

Do you guys Suggest to put new Thermal paste on the gpu or use the thermal paste on the AOE water cooler. if so how much should i put on the gpu?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pushtothelimit*
> 
> Do you guys Suggest to put new Thermal paste on the gpu or use the thermal paste on the AOE water cooler. if so how much should i put on the gpu?


Its up to you. If you have some high quality paste on hand go for it. I forget the name of what Corsair puts on the cold plates, but it is in fact pretty good quality TIM. Im assuming you went wth Corsair, if not then I am not sure whats on there.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badexample*
> 
> Anybody knows if the Kraken G10 is compatible with the newer GTX 1080? Do I need to be the guinea pig?


Waiting on the GPU to test it out.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Waiting on the GPU to test it out.


Great, there have been a lot of inquiries. I do not see why it wouldnt work, but I do not want to give bad advice either.


----------



## xator

Hi there guys!

I've been searching through the forum, but have not seen any example that helps me decide what to do, so maybe asking would lead me to a solution:

I have an Asus ROG 980Ti Matrix Platinum. It's a custom PCB (incredibly wide) with backplate, and I'd like to know if this Kraken G10 would fit. Specifically, I want to use the backplate that comes with it, so I do not know if Kraken's screws would be long enough...

And, my other doubt is, VRM temps and RAM temps, specifically from the left side of the GPU card, as kraken has only a fan in the right side (mainly for VRM purposes). Should I add another fan for cooling those ram chips?

Sorry for my english, and thanks for your time


----------



## epoz

1080FE is compatible with Kraken G10


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epoz*
> 
> 1080FE is compatible with Kraken G10


Good deal. I figured it would fit. Thanks for posting


----------



## HAL900

Kraken fits all cards with GDDR5 but HMB no longer. Pcb too short and does not cool the power supply section. It is a pity because the first card of the HMB will have a very high TPD as opposed to a card on gddr5x in 16/14 nm


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> Kraken fits all cards with GDDR5 but HMB no longer. Pcb too short and does not cool the power supply section. It is a pity because the first card of the HMB will have a very high TPD as opposed to a card on gddr5x in 16/14 nm


I may have to play with modifying the bracket to see if I can get it to work when the GPUs with HBM when they are released. I already have an idea on how to make it work. Will just have to execute and practice up on my Mig skills.


----------



## xator

I'm officially a new member of this club 

Here's my ASUS ROG 980Ti Matrix Platinum with the Kraken G10 and Corsair H75



I've added a "ghetto" 120mm fan bracket adapter to cool down vram. I'm waiting for Amazon to send me proper vram heatsinks.



Here's a close up of the NZXT's backplate. It fits wonderfully. I had to use no washers, as my backplate is not hollowed. Just removed the NZXT's foam pad.



Hope this helps to anyone that has this graphics card.

I'm still testing and benchmarking, but, i can confirm right now this is working fine. With 1520Mhz of core, i'm getting around 55-60º on high load, and memories and vrm have dropped down from 86º C on Furmark on both of them, to 70ºC and 66ºC for each one. And memory will improve whenever the heatsinks arrive.

All that, with a room temperature of 28-30ºC (yes, Spanish summer is here... ) and with complete silence, as Dual fans on the radiator are about 1400rpms. Noiseless.









(sorry for my english  )


----------



## guppysb

I currently have 2x 290x with the Kraken G10 and Corsair H55s. Both those GPUs are 290W TDP. I am hoping to get my hands on 2x RX 480, since those are only 150W TDP, meaning I can run them at lower temps and at lower fan noise. Exciting times for GPUs and quiet pc. If the RX 490 is 200W or less TDP, that'll be amazing as well.


----------



## PasK1234Xw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epoz*
> 
> 1080FE is compatible with Kraken G10


I wouldn't use this for reference blower EVGA AIO kit much better option.


----------



## HAL900

Two-fan cooler is always better than one


----------



## PasK1234Xw

The kraken is open the evga has a shroud and the blower sucks air into and out the back it doesn't need a 2nd fan. Not to mention you have to take the plate off that cover that covers the ram so no need to add heatsinks. This looks stupid in comparison

This is only good for none blower style


----------



## HAL900

Your knowledge of the subject is dim
Card such as GM200 is to have 1000 rpm and at 1 fan cooler is impossible. For cards with less TPD did not really want to take the water because they are sufficient air systems


----------



## PasK1234Xw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> Your knowledge of the subject is dim
> Card such as GM200 is to have 1000 rpm and at 1 fan cooler is impossible. For cards with less TPD did not really want to take the water because they are sufficient air systems


lol its the other way around









lol do you even know what evga hybrid kit is ? They are deigned for reference blower cards


----------



## HAL900

LOL
Twice more is this twice more . How You can not understand this is your problem


----------



## PasK1234Xw

you're clueless im done


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PasK1234Xw*
> 
> you're clueless im done


Im afraid you have that backwards. you clearly do not understand the mod.

The only thing you got right is that the EVGA hybrid kit does look nicer.


----------



## dartmaul15

so... how large radiator do you actually need? I'm thinking of getting one of these, and i'm torn between getting a 140mm and a 280mm radiator.

The plan is to go maximum silence, likely push+pull. Will the 140mm be enough?

Going to use a beefy GPU btw. 980ti pushed to its limits.

Any input on it would be appreiated immensely


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xator*
> 
> I'm officially a new member of this club
> 
> Here's my ASUS ROG 980Ti Matrix Platinum with the Kraken G10 and Corsair H75
> 
> 
> 
> I've added a "ghetto" 120mm fan bracket adapter to cool down vram. I'm waiting for Amazon to send me proper vram heatsinks.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close up of the NZXT's backplate. It fits wonderfully. I had to use no washers, as my backplate is not hollowed. Just removed the NZXT's foam pad.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps to anyone that has this graphics card.
> 
> I'm still testing and benchmarking, but, i can confirm right now this is working fine. With 1520Mhz of core, i'm getting around 55-60º on high load, and memories and vrm have dropped down from 86º C on Furmark on both of them, to 70ºC and 66ºC for each one. And memory will improve whenever the heatsinks arrive.
> 
> All that, with a room temperature of 28-30ºC (yes, Spanish summer is here... ) and with complete silence, as Dual fans on the radiator are about 1400rpms. Noiseless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry for my english  )


60c on load seems a bit high


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartmaul15*
> 
> so... how large radiator do you actually need? I'm thinking of getting one of these, and i'm torn between getting a 140mm and a 280mm radiator.
> 
> The plan is to go maximum silence, likely push+pull. Will the 140mm be enough?
> 
> Going to use a beefy GPU btw. 980ti pushed to its limits.
> 
> Any input on it would be appreiated immensely


I've a h105 on each of mine and top cards max temp is 42c after being maxed for 2 hours. And that's with the ambient temp going us as it's getting hot now.

240mm definitely seems worth it


----------



## dartmaul15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> I've a h105 on each of mine and top cards max temp is 42c after being maxed for 2 hours. And that's with the ambient temp going us as it's getting hot now.
> 
> 240mm definitely seems worth it


But how is the noise/fan-speed on them? that's kinda what I want, not as much the thermals. If i can keep it at 50-60c during load (high for being water, i know) and perfectly silent on an 140 then that's okay. But if i need a 280mm then i'll do that


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> 60c on load seems a bit high


much depends on what temps he was getting before the mod.

for my Powercolor R9 280, I was getting 79 deg on stock. After the mod, it was about 65 deg, which is good enough for me.

I think the biggest draw about an AIO mod, besides the lower temps, is also the near silence.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartmaul15*
> 
> so... how large radiator do you actually need? I'm thinking of getting one of these, and i'm torn between getting a 140mm and a 280mm radiator.
> 
> The plan is to go maximum silence, likely push+pull. Will the 140mm be enough?
> 
> Going to use a beefy GPU btw. 980ti pushed to its limits.
> 
> Any input on it would be appreiated immensely


if temps are the priority, then go with the biggest rad.

I don't cos I want some flexibility in changing cases. To me, the slight temperature improvement isn't enough of a move to bigger rads.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> Two-fan cooler is always better than one


yes of course but blower coolers have always been single fan. The benefit is hot air doesn't flow into the case but rather gets exhausted through the rear. There's no harm for sure if manufacturers should one day decide to slip in a 2nd fan into blower coolers though.

Given the choice, i take a blower cooler cos of its looks and it also keeps the pcb shielded from any possible damage.

Since one has a reference card, it would be logical to get a aio fitted with a shroud.

for non-ref, usually it comes with heatsinks on vrms so G10 will be suitable.

There's no real need to cool the vrams. Again, no harm if one puts heatsinks or fans on it. But it's not necessary. Just like fans on HDD/SSD isn't a must.

The G10 isn't a bad product. A lot of folks criticise it cos they mainly come from the AMD Ref side, which uses thermal pads from the shroud the cool the vrms on the right and the left. I think NZXT could have done better in putting more info on those cards.

If anyone had tried the G10 on a non ref 290, most likely they would have noticed heatsinks on the vrms and cooling would never be a problem.

In short, if u have a ref AMD, use the HG10 for less hassle. If u insist on the G10, fit the heatsinks on the vrms.


----------



## xator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> 60c on load seems a bit high


Really? I think that, for using a 120mm Radiator only they aren't that bad, are they?. Here, the room temp is an average of 28-30 degree. Humidity is also high. And specifically this card, maybe because of my PC Case, or maybe because of the silicon lottery, was getting about 80º to 85º degrees with the stock cooler and no Overclock... so, going down to a max of 60º, with 1500-1550Mhz overcloking for me is, not perfect, but much much better.

Anyway, thanks for the advise and the warning. I'll do more research.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> yes of course but blower coolers have always been single fan. The benefit is hot air doesn't flow into the case but rather gets exhausted through the rear. There's no harm for sure if manufacturers should one day decide to slip in a 2nd fan into blower coolers though.
> 
> Given the choice, i take a blower cooler cos of its looks and it also keeps the pcb shielded from any possible damage.
> 
> Since one has a reference card, it would be logical to get a aio fitted with a shroud.
> 
> for non-ref, usually it comes with heatsinks on vrms so G10 will be suitable.
> 
> There's no real need to cool the vrams. Again, no harm if one puts heatsinks or fans on it. But it's not necessary. Just like fans on HDD/SSD isn't a must.
> 
> The G10 isn't a bad product. A lot of folks criticise it cos they mainly come from the AMD Ref side, which uses thermal pads from the shroud the cool the vrms on the right and the left. I think NZXT could have done better in putting more info on those cards.
> 
> If anyone had tried the G10 on a non ref 290, most likely they would have noticed heatsinks on the vrms and cooling would never be a problem.
> 
> In short, if u have a ref AMD, use the HG10 for less hassle. If u insist on the G10, fit the heatsinks on the vrms.


A $5 heat sink for the VRMS on the GPU versions that do not have VRMS attached to the PCB vs the cooler is not a big deal in the slightest. I do not get the two fan argument being made. What does that have to do with anything here? The reference "hybrid" AIO kits have a fan cooling the vrms and a radiator and fan cooling the GPU die, just like the H-10 does. The heat exhausted from the shroud from the vrms is trivial compared to the amount of heat removed at the radiator. The shroud does little more than make it look nicer. Maybe add some lights.


----------



## HAL900

Look nicer xD


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> A $5 heat sink for the VRMS on the GPU versions that do not have VRMS attached to the PCB vs the cooler is not a big deal in the slightest. I do not get the two fan argument being made. What does that have to do with anything here? The reference "hybrid" AIO kits have a fan cooling the vrms and a radiator and fan cooling the GPU die, just like the H-10 does. The heat exhausted from the shroud from the vrms is trivial compared to the amount of heat removed at the radiator. The shroud does little more than make it look nicer. Maybe add some lights.


It's more specific to reference R9 290 as it has a vrm on the other side which is not cooled by either a heatsink or thermal tape. Also note it does not have heatsinks even on the vrms. The HG10 mimics the reference set up exactly by having thermal tape in the same places. The only difference is it does not cover the pcb's front unlike the reference shroud.

Yes, the fan should be sufficient to cool the vrms on the fan side, even without heatsinks. The problem lies with the other side where the air doesn't quite get there and the G10 leaves the vrm exposed. So many users of the 290 experience incredibly high temp on that vrm and blow the card, especially for those who game under heavy loads.

The HG10 while not entirely great, manages the problem with that vrm well enough with its thermal tape. So it's probably the best solution for ref 290 at the moment.

This video explains it well enough. Refer to the 15:00 mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSK4M0FIs7M


----------



## HAL900

My kraken and GM200 has only a fan on the power supply section and is devoid of limits TPD and it comes in a year. Temperatures are lower than the cooling air on this section because it blows cold air through the radiator ing. Therefore, I do not know what so excites this section xD


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> It's more specific to reference R9 290 as it has a vrm on the other side which is not cooled by either a heatsink or thermal tape. Also note it does not have heatsinks even on the vrms. The HG10 mimics the reference set up exactly by having thermal tape in the same places. The only difference is it does not cover the pcb's front unlike the reference shroud.
> 
> Yes, the fan should be sufficient to cool the vrms on the fan side, even without heatsinks. The problem lies with the other side where the air doesn't quite get there and the G10 leaves the vrm exposed. So many users of the 290 experience incredibly high temp on that vrm and blow the card, especially for those who game under heavy loads.
> 
> The HG10 while not entirely great, manages the problem with that vrm well enough with its thermal tape. So it's probably the best solution for ref 290 at the moment.
> 
> This video explains it well enough. Refer to the 15:00 mark.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSK4M0FIs7M


Its been made E X T R E M E L Y clear to anyone who has ever asked about the G-10 mod that the VRMs require a heatsink and airflow. I have not installed this mod on any 290s but that first sentence is made clear throughout this thread. People with GTX 970s had to make arrangements for a fan on the output side of the die. Heatsink plus fan and no problems on both my 970s. I do acknowledge the power subsystem on the 290 gets extremely hot. Common sense would dictate to make sure there is enough airflow. Also, several 290 owners, directly ignored people telling them they needed to do so because they didnt want to take the time. But it all can be addressed with either system


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Its been made E X T R E M E L Y clear to anyone who has ever asked about the G-10 mod that the VRMs require a heatsink and airflow. I have not installed this mod on any 290s but that first sentence is made clear throughout this thread. People with GTX 970s had to make arrangements for a fan on the output side of the die. Heatsink plus fan and no problems on both my 970s. I do acknowledge the power subsystem on the 290 gets extremely hot. Common sense would dictate to make sure there is enough airflow. Also, several 290 owners, directly ignored people telling them they needed to do so because they didnt want to take the time. But it all can be addressed with either system


other than this forum, the NZXT G10 site gives the impression that vrm heatsinks are not needed unless overclocking. I suppose most 290 owners referred to it instead of info here. In fact I recall the G10 site actually stated vrm heatsinks were not needed at all but i think they've since changed the info after numerous complaints.

I think a fan on the output side is not necessary as shown in the HG10. it only runs a single fan with thermal tape covering all vrms.


----------



## RyuBlade94

Hey guys. I just bought some mini heatsink to use with my Kraken G10 (http://www.inline-info.com/en/coolers-fans/gpu-chip-ram-coolers/8022/inline-ram-heat-sink-self-adhesive-cooling-fins-8-pcs.).. now, my question is: do i simply put them by removing the non-adhesive layer? (the adhesive layer is probably just some tape glue, anything "thermal", might be wrong though).
Don't really want to burn out a gpu trying to cool down the vram on it








Thanks everyone


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epoz*
> 
> 1080FE is compatible with Kraken G10


Hey man, can you give a link for those heatsinks? Why did you not choose copper? How did you attach them? Using thermal tape, or they come with their own glue?


----------



## mr2cam

Hoping that the MSI 1080 is similar to their 980ti that has heatsinks already on the VRM, if not I have some that I can put on myself


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> Hoping that the MSI 1080 is similar to their 980ti that has heatsinks already on the VRM, if not I have some that I can put on myself


Non ref cards will usually have heatsinks on vrms. And it's better cos they screw them onto the pcb. Problem with putting them yourself is they may fall off.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> Non ref cards will usually have heatsinks on vrms. And it's better cos they screw them onto the pcb. Problem with putting them yourself is they may fall off.


There are easily more non reference cards as a % with the VRM heatsink built into the cooler rather than the heatsink attached directly to the PCB. This is for one reason only. Its cheaper to build the VRM heatsink into the cooler. Its one of the things i look for when I buy a GPU. It will vary quite a bit in the various selling points in a vendors line.


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> There are easily more non reference cards as a % with the VRM heatsink built into the cooler rather than the heatsink attached directly to the PCB. This is for one reason only. Its cheaper to build the VRM heatsink into the cooler. Its one of the things i look for when I buy a GPU. It will vary quite a bit in the various selling points in a vendors line.


So how do you figure out which vendors build the VRM heatsink into the cooler?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> So how do you figure out which vendors build the VRM heatsink into the cooler?


It takes some research since you cant take apart and then return it, you have to search around the web until you find pictures of the EXACT version of the card your interested in disassembled. A lot of review sites do this and a lot of people post pictures asking questions. Do be careful and make sure your looking at the right model. I have also had to straight up ask a rep from a particular vendor. Just never assume because they will change it the second you do. For example, I run mostly Direct CUII and STRIX ASUS cards since kepler was released. They typically have a robust electrical subsystem and all of them have had the the PCB mounted VRM heatsink until of all cards, the 980TI was released. It was built into the cooler on that model and is likely the same on the STRIX version of the 1080... All im saying is you have to check and do some research because they will change crap up.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> So how do you figure out which vendors build the VRM heatsink into the cooler?


I always google the card's name pcb.

For eg, Powercolor R9 280 pcb.....

The images will show if there are vrms built in or not.

I have 2 R9 280s. Powercolor has it built in. XFX doesn't and only uses thermal tapes. So I did not use the G10 on the XFX.

For the latest XFX cards, they have since decided to place the heatsinks on the pcb.

Something I've noticed over these few years is that manufacturers have placed more 'stuff' in their gpus. Competition is heating up and cost cutting would surely leave them behind. It benefits us consumers most thankfully.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> It takes some research since you cant take apart and then return it, you have to search around the web until you find pictures of the EXACT version of the card your interested in disassembled. A lot of review sites do this and a lot of people post pictures asking questions. Do be careful and make sure your looking at the right model. I have also had to straight up ask a rep from a particular vendor. Just never assume because they will change it the second you do. For example, I run mostly Direct CUII and STRIX ASUS cards since kepler was released. They typically have a robust electrical subsystem and all of them have had the the PCB mounted VRM heatsink until of all cards, the 980TI was released. It was built into the cooler on that model and is likely the same on the STRIX version of the 1080... All im saying is you have to check and do some research because they will change crap up.


U can take it apart and return it if there are no stickers covering the screws or any sticker that gets torn upon removal.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> U can take it apart and return it if there are no stickers covering the screws or any sticker that gets torn upon removal.


True, some vendors do not care if all you fool with is the cooler. But clearly, thats not the ideal way to go about this.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trento*
> 
> I have 2 R9 280s. Powercolor has it built in. XFX doesn't and only uses thermal tapes. So I did not use the G10 on the XFX.
> .


While you can certainly go with whatever product you want. installing heatsinks on the VRMs is a $10 expense. This design is ideal if you buy GPUs semi -regularly. Ive had these brackets on three pair of GPUs now and the VRMs were different on one pair.


----------



## bigblueshock

Hey Guys,

First off, I'm kicking myself for not seeing this thread sooner. I've been pondering to go water on my graphics card since I got my 980 TI when it came out, but looked at another brands and saw they were not really compatible with non-reference card, and was all but hopeless. MSI GeForce 980 TI 6GD5T here. Good ambient temps and overclocked. 100% fan speed nets me 75c at full load in newest games (Division, Rainbow Six, Overwatch).

Temperature, Not exactly the issue... 100% Fan speed, *THE* issue. Even with my Over the Ear headphones, it's bad!!!! Well I found this thread, and looked no further. My NZXT Kraken G10 and my Corsair Hydro H90 should be on my door step by the time I get home today







If I don't mess anything up (will re-watch OP's video as I go through the process) I will share a few pics with you guys!

The H90 was not my first choice, but hopefully a good one. Key reason on purchase decision was fitting in my Cooler Master HAF X. I have a Corsair H105 in push-pull configuration mounted to the top of my case, and was limited in options.

Wish me luck!

Edit: Do you guys recommend the ArctiClean remover kit, or not worth the $10ish? I was going to just use alcohol pads or cuetip, but the GPU is a tad precious to me...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> First off, I'm kicking myself for not seeing this thread sooner. I've been pondering to go water on my graphics card since I got my 980 TI when it came out, but looked at another brands and saw they were not really compatible with non-reference card, and was all but hopeless. MSI GeForce 980 TI 6GD5T here. Good ambient temps and overclocked. 100% fan speed nets me 75c at full load in newest games (Division, Rainbow Six, Overwatch).
> 
> Temperature, Not exactly the issue... 100% Fan speed, *THE* issue. Even with my Over the Ear headphones, it's bad!!!! Well I found this thread, and looked no further. My NZXT Kraken G10 and my Corsair Hydro H90 should be on my door step by the time I get home today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I don't mess anything up (will re-watch OP's video as I go through the process) I will share a few pics with you guys!
> 
> The H90 was not my first choice, but hopefully a good one. Key reason on purchase decision was fitting in my Cooler Master HAF X. I have a Corsair H105 in push-pull configuration mounted to the top of my case, and was limited in options.
> 
> Wish me luck!


Let us know how it goes. The H-90 should work fine for you.


----------



## mr2cam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aT2lJX_EFY

Looks like the MSI card is similar to the 980ti, although it is suppose to suck at overclocking :\


----------



## bigblueshock

Above Pic: June 2012. Original build: GeForce GTX 285



Above Pic: July 2015. Dual GTX 970's



Above Pic: June 2016. Current build with Kraken G10 added to a GTX 980 TI. I would have loved to do a push-pull, however as you see, the H105 wouldn't allow

Edit: Don't mind the ghetto fan hanging on the right side. That's usually facing the ASUS Sabertooth x79 VRM due to excess heat. The H105 fans cover the VRM so airflow is not good.


----------



## BigBeard86

Hey guys. I just bought a 1080 and want to mount the krakent g10 on it. Does anyone know where I can find heatsinks for the vrm that will stick on? Some guy posted here but didn't say where he bought it or what size.


----------



## Mr-Low

So I this is my first post, and I apologize if this isn't in the right area, but throughout my search for a waterblock for my MSI R9 390 I came across the Kraken G10 and have heard great things about it. With both of my monitors running and playing Witcher 3, my card was hitting ~92 degrees. Out of curiosity, I messaged NZXT about the compatibility for my card and their response was "...it does look like it CAN fit but you might need some copper shims for the die connecting to the cooler along with some heatsinks to passively cool all the VRAMs that are closer to the ports" I guess my questions are, does anyone have this same card and a Kraken G10? Where do I put the heatsinks and shims?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Low*
> 
> So I this is my first post, and I apologize if this isn't in the right area, but throughout my search for a waterblock for my MSI R9 390 I came across the Kraken G10 and have heard great things about it. With both of my monitors running and playing Witcher 3, my card was hitting ~92 degrees. Out of curiosity, I messaged NZXT about the compatibility for my card and their response was "...it does look like it CAN fit but you might need some copper shims for the die connecting to the cooler along with some heatsinks to passively cool all the VRAMs that are closer to the ports" I guess my questions are, does anyone have this same card and a Kraken G10? Where do I put the heatsinks and shims?


The midplate on that card must sit a little higher than the level of the GPU die. The shims will go on the GPU die so that the cold plate of the pump makes contact with it. The heat sinks for VRAM simply go on the VRAM chips. If you want to post a picture of the card without the cooler, someone will be happy to show you where the vram chips are.

Did they say VRAM or VRMs? You need to make sure that the VRMs have a heatsink as well. This is much more important than making sure the VRAM has heatsinks.


----------



## HazyDavy

I am still trying to find alternative nuts. The bolts that attach the bracket to the PCB seem to be in between M2 and M3 in diameter. So neither the M2 or M3 nuts seemed to work.


----------



## Ultisym

Maybe i missed it, but why do you need alternative nuts?


----------



## HazyDavy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Maybe i missed it, but why do you need alternative nuts?


I lost one of mine and I'm concerned about waiting for a replacement, but also it'd be nice to have something with a bit less height so that the pump housing doesn't have to be removed on some Corsair coolers.


----------



## Mr-Low

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The midplate on that card must sit a little higher than the level of the GPU die. The shims will go on the GPU die so that the cold plate of the pump makes contact with it. The heat sinks for VRAM simply go on the VRAM chips. If you want to post a picture of the card without the cooler, someone will be happy to show you where the vram chips are.
> 
> Did they say VRAM or VRMs? You need to make sure that the VRMs have a heatsink as well. This is much more important than making sure the VRAM has heatsinks.




This isn't my personal card, but this is essentially the PCB for my card. And they did just say VRAM, but if I may (one more time) where are the VRMs? Thank you so much for the explanations.


----------



## HazyDavy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Low*
> 
> 
> 
> This isn't my personal card, but this is essentially the PCB for my card. And they did just say VRAM, but if I may (one more time) where are the VRMs? Thank you so much for the explanations.


There seems to be some mistake. VRM is not VRAM. VRM stands for voltage regulator module.



The large black flat-ish chips around the core are the RAM.


----------



## Slowpoke66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Low*
> 
> So I this is my first post, and I apologize if this isn't in the right area, but throughout my search for a waterblock for my MSI R9 390 I came across the Kraken G10 and have heard great things about it. With both of my monitors running and playing Witcher 3, my card was hitting ~92 degrees. Out of curiosity, I messaged NZXT about the compatibility for my card and their response was "...it does look like it CAN fit but you might need some copper shims for the die connecting to the cooler along with some heatsinks to passively cool all the VRAMs that are closer to the ports" I guess my questions are, does anyone have this same card and a Kraken G10? Where do I put the heatsinks and shims?


U don't need a shim. Skip the nzxt-backplate, keep the original back- & midplates. Then put some copper heatsinks on the vrms.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Low*
> 
> 
> 
> *This isn't my personal card, but this is essentially the PCB for my card*. And they did just say VRAM, but if I may (one more time) where are the VRMs? Thank you so much for the explanations.


Not good enough, need to have the exact variant of the card you have. Not sure why the NZXT support team would say you need a shim if they didnt think you had a midplate. Does your card have a backplate and midplate?


----------



## Caunian

Hello everyone. Thanks for such a nice thread. I wanted to share a solution I found for sagging card due to heavy load that G10 creates.

I have a GTX 970 and it comes with a backplate. However, I didn't want to use it when installing G10 and Asetek 570LC to be able to put some heatsinks on vrams on the back side of the card. So I placed a fan under it to support the card. I know that it might not be appealing to many people but some might find it useful.


----------



## Mr-Low

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Not good enough, need to have the exact variant of the card you have. Not sure why the NZXT support team would say you need a shim if they didnt think you had a midplate. Does your card have a backplate and midplate?





This is my card. It has both back and mid plates.


----------



## Mr-Low

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slowpoke66*
> 
> U don't need a shim. Skip the nzxt-backplate, keep the original back- & midplates. Then put some copper heatsinks on the vrms.


So it would be safe to put copper heatsinks directly on the vrms? Also, should I put heatsinks on the midplate over the ram? Thank you for the reply.


----------



## trento

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Low*
> 
> So it would be safe to put copper heatsinks directly on the vrms? Also, should I put heatsinks on the midplate over the ram? Thank you for the reply.


the mid plate gives some form of cooling so no need. copper heatsinks are safe as they have adhesive below to stick onto the vrms. i believe Gelid has them or u can source them from ebay or amazon. some though have reported these heatsinks falling off over time.

personally, i would only use the G10 on cards that have prebuilt heatsinks on the vrms.

vram cooling is not a must as the temps are fine without heatsinks. no harm putting them though


----------



## Fantomau

will the g10 fit the evga gtx 980ti classified with a 120/140mm corsair aio? or the 1080


----------



## HazyDavy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Low*
> 
> So it would be safe to put copper heatsinks directly on the vrms? Also, should I put heatsinks on the midplate over the ram? Thank you for the reply.


I have no experience with that particular plate but one thing you can do is get VRM heatsinks from GELID. I have seen success with tall square aluminum HS as well. Apply heatsinks directly to RAM and VRM, do not use any between heat-sink and VRM. If you are adventurous and you can cut/drill metal you can try to combine the G10 with the large heat sinks from stock 290 /290x BF edition with the G10. The important thing seems to be (a) good thermal contact (b) significant amount of metal directly over VRM (c) good surface area and airflow through that metal.


----------



## Badexample

Anybody else uses copper shims to have a better clearance with the "aftermarket vrm/memory cover" and the gpu bracket holder just like in this video???







starts at 8:25

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2SFSYl60jk


----------



## BigBeard86

The guy that posted a picture of the g10 on the 1080 never came back.

Is it possible to keep the backplate when using the g10 on the 1080?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> The guy that posted a picture of the g10 on the 1080 never came back.
> 
> Is it possible to keep the backplate when using the g10 on the 1080?


You can keep the back plate. Two options, A. use the NZXT mini backplate on top of the existing back plate but remove the foam pad and B. dont use the NZXT back plate at all, use just the bolts, adding washers if needed.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badexample*
> 
> Anybody else uses copper shims to have a better clearance with the "aftermarket vrm/memory cover" and the gpu bracket holder just like in this video???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> starts at 8:25
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2SFSYl60jk


Yes I used a 1.6mm sized shim on my evga card and it works great, using a Corsair H55 AIO with 2x corsair SP 120mm pwm fans in push/pull config, getting low 20c idle and load temps in the 40s


----------



## Badexample

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Yes I used a 1.6mm sized shim on my evga card and it works great, using a Corsair H55 AIO with 2x corsair SP 120mm pwm fans in push/pull config, getting low 20c idle and load temps in the 40s


Awesome! I'll do this with my upcoming 1080 EVGA FTW.

I bought some shim from ebay.. tough to find the right measurements.. The shim will need some dremel trim!









Website for measurements for the GPU
http://videocardz.com/59288/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-gp104-400-gpu-pictured-paired-with-gddr5x-memory

Another cool video for the mod: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo&feature=youtu.be

Bought some Artic thermal pads for the front and backplate as well to replace the oem stuff underneath the plates.

https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/thermal-pad.html.. I used this in my laptop and killed the temperature by a lot.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badexample*
> 
> Awesome! I'll do this with my upcoming 1080 EVGA FTW.
> 
> I bought some shim from ebay.. tough to find the right measurements.. The shim will need some dremel trim!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Website for measurements for the GPU
> http://videocardz.com/59288/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-gp104-400-gpu-pictured-paired-with-gddr5x-memory
> 
> Another cool video for the mod: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo&feature=youtu.be
> 
> Bought some Artic thermal pads for the front and backplate as well to replace the oem stuff underneath the plates.
> 
> https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/thermal-pad.html.. I used this in my laptop and killed the temperature by a lot.


No worries bro let us know how it goes..have fun


----------



## moustang

Waiting for my MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X so I can swap my G10 and Kraken X41 from my GTX 770 to the new card.

And I'm sure someone is going to ask why I would spend the premium price for the MSI card. The answer to that is simply that it has the best cooling setup for the other components. Heat spreader on the VRAM and heatsink for the VRM. Haven't seen any other card provide complete cooling solutions for both.










Just pop the G10 and X41 on it and it's good to go.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Waiting for my MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X so I can swap my G10 and Kraken X41 from my GTX 770 to the new card.
> 
> And I'm sure someone is going to ask why I would spend the premium price for the MSI card. The answer to that is simply that it has the best cooling setup for the other components. Heat spreader on the VRAM and heatsink for the VRM. Haven't seen any other card provide complete cooling solutions for both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just pop the G10 and X41 on it and it's good to go.


You may need a shim. I got the evga FE that boosts to 2,088mhz, and did not bother to mount the g10 on it yet, simply because the consensus seems to say that there won't be much OC headroom added.

Let me know how your experience goes, please. I am still looking for a good enough reason to mount the g10. I would have done it if it wasn't a bare dye - possibility of crushing it. And if something does go wrong, who long how long an RMA would take with the current lack of stock.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> You may need a shim. I got the evga FE that boosts to 2,088mhz, and did not bother to mount the g10 on it yet, simply because the consensus seems to say that there won't be much OC headroom added.


Maximum overclocking isn't the only reason to go with the G10.

With the GPU running significantly cooler there will be no GPU throttling. It will run at that maximum boosted setting at all times which gives it more consistent performance especially during extended gaming. It's also much more quiet, and dumps less heat into the room. (which is important to me since I live in Texas and my study faces south, directly at the sun).

Quote:


> Let me know how your experience goes, please. I am still looking for a good enough reason to mount the g10. I would have done it if it wasn't a bare dye - possibility of crushing it. And if something does go wrong, who long how long an RMA would take with the current lack of stock.


I don't see it as being any more risky than it was when I put the G10 and X41s on my two GTX 770s.

My 770s would exceed 90C under air and stay under 50C with the G10. I suspect that the 1080 will stay under 45C with the G10 and X41. It may not give amazing 2.1+GHZ boost speeds, but it will be quiet, cool, and never throttle back the speed.

And since I already have the bracket, cooler, and thermal paste it's a free conversion for me.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Maximum overclocking isn't the only reason to go with the G10.
> 
> With the GPU running significantly cooler there will be no GPU throttling. It will run at that maximum boosted setting at all times which gives it more consistent performance especially during extended gaming. It's also much more quiet, and dumps less heat into the room. (which is important to me since I live in Texas and my study faces south, directly at the sun).
> I don't see it as being any more risky than it was when I put the G10 and X41s on my two GTX 770s.
> 
> My 770s would exceed 90C under air and stay under 50C with the G10. I suspect that the 1080 will stay under 45C with the G10 and X41. It may not give amazing 2.1+GHZ boost speeds, but it will be quiet, cool, and never throttle back the speed.
> 
> And since I already have the bracket, cooler, and thermal paste it's a free conversion for me.


OK. Let me know how it goes for you. Do you plan on removing the backplate? If not, how will you ensure the screws end up being long enough? Keep me updated, thanks.

I also came from a 2 gpu setup than initially ran hot - crossfire 290s. The g10 kept my 290s at 42c load. so I have two brackets and two aio laying around


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> OK. Let me know how it goes for you. Do you plan on removing the backplate? If not, how will you ensure the screws end up being long enough? Keep me updated, thanks.
> 
> I also came from a 2 gpu setup than initially ran hot - crossfire 290s. The g10 kept my 290s at 42c load. so I have two brackets and two aio laying around


Don't plan on removing the backplate. I didn't need to with my current MSI card.



I doubt that this card is so much thicker that I can't do the same. Worst case scenario I'll leave the NZXT backplate off and use some small washers instead.


----------



## Ultisym

The NZXT back plate is only needed on GPUs that have no back plate unless you like the looks of it over some washers (washers are not always necessary). If you decide to use it anyway, simply remove the foam pad before installation. The foam pad is only to keep the next plate from contacting the back of the circuit board if it used on a GPU with no back plate.

I havnt used the nzxt back plate on the last 3 pair of GPUs ive run. They all had back plates. Just make sure the screw head wont pull through and if in doubt put a washer on it.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The NZXT back plate is only needed on GPUs that have no back plate unless you like the looks of it over some washers (washers are not always necessary). If you decide to use it anyway, simply remove the foam pad before installation. The foam pad is only to keep the next plate from contacting the back of the circuit board if it used on a GPU with no back plate.
> 
> I havnt used the nzxt back plate on the last 3 pair of GPUs ive run. They all had back plates. Just make sure the screw head wont pull through and if in doubt put a washer on it.


thanks so much. would you happen to know what size/type washer I should use?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> thanks so much. would you happen to know what size/type washer I should use?


No I do not remember the size. Just take the screw with you to the hardware store. They are typically available in black which will match most setups.


----------



## Veiron

The Kraken on my GTX1080 in a QBX:


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> No I do not remember the size. Just take the screw with you to the hardware store. They are typically available in black which will match most setups.


M2.5 Screw.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> M2.5 Screw.


Thanks for adding that.


----------



## partypoison25

MSI GTX 1070 with KRaken and a H105.

Temps are GTAV after 30 mins.












https://www.facebook.com/daniel.s.monkman/videos/10207040725318190/


----------



## moustang

Nice.

Can't wait to get my 1080.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> MSI GTX 1070 with KRaken and a H105.
> 
> Temps are GTAV after 30 mins.


Something seems wrong with those temps, why so high? Maybe the heatsink isn't making good contact / not tight enough?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Something seems wrong with those temps, why so high? Maybe the heatsink isn't making good contact / not tight enough?


Edit, i read the temps wrong on that image. What i get for glancing at it.

His temps seem fine


----------



## partypoison25

So high??

Its 36c.


----------



## partypoison25

We played for 2 hours and 36c was the highest it got to.


----------



## RyuBlade94

Installed my Kraken G10 on my new GTX 1080 too! (my cooler is a Corsair H105)
Barely had any time to test it, anyways i seem to max out at around 45ish °C with EVERYTHING set to max on both, GTA V and The Witcher 3. Just curious @partypoison25 are you running EVERYTHING at max on GTA V?
Btw gonna post picks as i got some free time!


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> Installed my Kraken G10 on my new GTX 1080 too! (my cooler is a Corsair H105)
> Barely had any time to test it, anyways i seem to max out at around 45ish °C with EVERYTHING set to max on both, GTA V and The Witcher 3. Just curious @partypoison25 are you running EVERYTHING at max on GTA V?
> Btw gonna post picks as i got some free time!


Yea all max, went up to the woods as well and left franklin standing there for a while, 36c was still max.

I've got a video of it I'll get uploaded.


----------



## BigBeard86

you should be seeing much lower temps. I see 33C max at 100% gpu usage when gaming, using a kraken x41.


----------



## RyuBlade94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> Yea all max, went up to the woods as well and left franklin standing there for a while, 36c was still max.
> 
> I've got a video of it I'll get uploaded.


Could it be simply that you're using a 1070 while i added the kraken to a 1080? I mean, i don't really know the average temperature difference between a 1070 and a 1080. By the way, if you can test on the witcher 3, do you have hairworks to max? Thats heavy on temps, at least for what i noticed with my quick test.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> you should be seeing much lower temps. I see 33C max at 100% gpu usage when gaming, using a kraken x41.


Again, are you using a 1080? If you do, which game did you test it with? (any chance you can test on gta v and or the witcher 3?) Are you setting every single graphic setting to its max? By every i every i do mean EVERY.

Thanks everyone


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> So high??
> 
> Its 36c.


Im seeing values of 60C in the images, or are those something else?


----------



## partypoison25

I'll copy the witcher over to the 1070 pc, I had two of these on 980ti sli playing the witcher max and I mean everything at 1440p and top card got to 40c


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Im seeing values of 60C in the images, or are those something else?


That's his cpu


----------



## BigBeard86

Yes i am using a 1080. And yes, i play witcher 3 and gta v and many other games. Max settings too, which only matters to the extent of not reaching gsync/vsync limits and seeing lower gpu usage. Some games i see even lower temps.
Is your room very hot?

The load temps are only a few C higher than my idle 25/26C, which is very impressive.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> Yes i am using a 1080. And yes, i play witcher 3 and gta v and many other games. Max settings too, which only matters to the extent of not reaching gsync/vsync limits and seeing lower gpu usage. Some games i see even lower temps.
> Is your room very hot?
> 
> The load temps are only a few C higher than my idle 25/26C, which is very impressive.


Ambient temps vary alot and that does change temps. Please he is using a 1070 vs your 1080.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> That's his cpu


Then its superb, planning to do this, once a custom bios is released for the G1 1080, and demonstrates overclockability. However, just avoiding down throttling is enough reason to do this.

Currently my GPU downthrottles to ~1974 from 2025 during gaming with load temps @ 72C. Though I'm sure voltages & GPU boost 3.0 are also playing a role


----------



## RyuBlade94

I'm still unsure if i should reseat it or not :\ My room gets hot quick.. there isn't a lot of "airflow" in my room, if so i can say. But idk, usually, at least with my 780 (the card i had until today) the difference was of 3-4 degrees compared to when i was turning on my conditionated air.
Also, i'm seeing a lot of people over reddit getting approximately the same temps as i do, but if you atill think my temps are still high anyway i guess i'll have to reseat it.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> I'm still unsure if i should reseat it or not :\ My room gets hot quick.. there isn't a lot of "airflow" in my room, if so i can say. But idk, usually, at least with my 780 (the card i had until today) the difference was of 3-4 degrees compared to when i was turning on my conditionated air.
> Also, i'm seeing a lot of people over reddit getting approximately the same temps as i do, but if you atill think my temps are still high anyway i guess i'll have to reseat it.


I think the people who think your temps are high are looking at your CPU temps rather than the GPU temp. They're looking at the 60C numbers and thinking that's your GPU.

Your temps seem fine to me. A bit higher than what I would expect from a 1080, but you're overclocking it more than you would a 1080 to reach the same speed. 36C under full load with extended gaming is excellent, no reason to reseat anything.


----------



## RyuBlade94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> I think the people who think your temps are high are looking at your CPU temps rather than the GPU temp. They're looking at the 60C numbers and thinking that's your GPU.
> 
> Your temps seem fine to me. A bit higher than what I would expect from a 1080, but you're overclocking it more than you would a 1080 to reach the same speed. 36C under full load with extended gaming is excellent, no reason to reseat anything.


I'm not the guy with the 1070 who posted those screens







I'm another dude with a kraken on a 1080 having a 45ish °C on load and 30ish while idle


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> I'm not the guy with the 1070 who posted those screens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm another dude with a kraken on a 1080 having a 45ish °C on load and 30ish while idle


Oh.









That does seem a tad bit high. Perhaps a bit too much thermal paste.

But it's well within the safe range. Still 35C lower than the throttle point. You could try reseating it and making sure your thermal paste isn't too thick if you want.

Another two things to look at is your pump speed with the X41. I have the same cooler and run my pump at 100% at all times. If I drop it below around 70% the temps start going up. With the pump running 100% I only need to run the fans at 25% to keep it my GPUs cool and quiet.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Oh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That does seem a tad bit high. Perhaps a bit too much thermal paste.
> 
> But it's well within the safe range. Still 35C lower than the throttle point. You could try reseating it and making sure your thermal paste isn't too thick if you want.


Mine starts throttling the moment I cross 48C - exactly that temp (G1 GTX 1080). In roughly 12 Mhz increments, about every 10C


----------



## moustang

If yours is throttling at 48C then there is something wrong with your card. 82C is the hard coded threshold in the BIOS. If it's throttling before that something isn't right, and it's not the cooler. There is no way the card should be throttling at 48C.


----------



## RyuBlade94

So, i decided to reseat my G10 on my 1080 and temps actually went down. I'm maxing 41°C using Furmark now, compared to the 45ish°C i was getting before , simply by playing. My idles goes from 32°C to 33°C.
Now when i play The Witcher 3 i'm maxing out 39°C. Considering that today's even way hotter than it was yesterday evening (it's 31°C right now here) i think now my temps are fine!
Thanks everyone!








Edit: it's actually 36°C in my city today


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello

GTX 1070 FE and Kraken G10/H105...

The PCB with memory heatsink



G10 installed



The whole build



The Fan's is ThermalTake ring 120 Red.. @900rpm.. Max temp is 44c at 2050mhz clock







.. at stock cooler the temp was 60c idle and 82c under load..

the room temp around 30c here.. Outside is +38c easily


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> GTX 1070 FE and Kraken G10/H105...
> 
> The PCB with memory heatsink
> 
> 
> 
> G10 installed
> 
> 
> 
> The whole build
> 
> 
> 
> The Fan's is ThermalTake ring 120 Red.. @900rpm.. Max temp is 44c at 2050mhz clock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. at stock cooler the temp was 60c idle and 82c under load..
> 
> the room temp around 30c here.. Outside is +38c easily


Did you put a heat sink on the VRMs? What temps are you seeing on the VRMs?


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Did you put a heat sink on the VRMs? What temps are you seeing on the VRMs?


only on the memory.. there is no vrm sensor at all


----------



## mr2cam

I'm still patiently awaiting the MSI GTX 1080 to come down to it's retail of $720 or w/e it is, probably wont be until later into July before that happens though.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> only on the memory.. there is no vrm sensor at all


Without knowing the VRM temps under load, I would consider getting a heatsink on there. While they are obviously not getting extremely hot during gaming (You would be experiencing freezes and/or other stability issues), it would extend the life of the GPU.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Without knowing the VRM temps under load, I would consider getting a heatsink on there. While they are obviously not getting extremely hot during gaming (You would be experiencing freezes and/or other stability issues), it would extend the life of the GPU.


That's the main reason why I decided to spend the extra money and get the MSI 1080 Gaming X. I've checked all of the currently available 1080s, and it has what is by far the best VRM heatsink already attached. Big wide, large finned heatsink sitting right under the G10 fan.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> That's the main reason why I decided to spend the extra money and get the MSI 1080 Gaming X. I've checked all of the currently available 1080s, and it has what is by far the best VRM heatsink already attached. Big wide, large finned heatsink sitting right under the G10 fan.


I couldnt make it out in the other photo. Carry on


----------



## fredocini

Hey guys,

I plan on installing a Kraken G10 on my G1 Gaming 980 Ti in hopes of increasing stability for my overclock. I'm currently running a custom bios allowing me 24/7 stability with the following speeds:

Core: 1506 mhz
Memory: 3850 mhz
Voltage: 1.218v
Max Temp: 72C (Overwatch, Witcher 3 w/ Mods)

Anything more on memory will cause computer to "memory" crash w/ checkered artifacts all over the screen, needing for me to hard reboot.

My intention is to see if bringing down temperatures can help me push my overclock on memory to 2000 mhz 24/7 on memory by adding heatsinks to the appropriate modules.

I have the following questions:

Will changing the cooler to a CLC, and reducing load temperatures to ~60C give meaningful overclock potential? If I can drop the memory temperature drastically, will it help me achieve my desired result?

Has anyone had any experience in installing AIO to their 980 Ti's and achieved better results than on air?


----------



## mr2cam

I'm still patiently awaiting the MSI GTX 1080 to come down to it's retail of $720 or w/e it is, probably wont be until later into July before
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I plan on installing a Kraken G10 on my G1 Gaming 980 Ti in hopes of increasing stability for my overclock. I'm currently running a custom bios allowing me 24/7 stability with the following speeds:
> 
> Core: 1506 mhz
> Memory: 3850 mhz
> Voltage: 1.218v
> Max Temp: 72C (Overwatch, Witcher 3 w/ Mods)
> 
> Anything more on memory will cause computer to "memory" crash w/ checkered artifacts all over the screen, needing for me to hard reboot.
> 
> My intention is to see if bringing down temperatures can help me push my overclock on memory to 2000 mhz 24/7 on memory by adding heatsinks to the appropriate modules.
> 
> I have the following questions:
> 
> Will changing the cooler to a CLC, and reducing load temperatures to ~60C give meaningful overclock potential? If I can drop the memory temperature drastically, will it help me achieve my desired result?
> 
> Has anyone had any experience in installing AIO to their 980 Ti's and achieved better results than on air?


I put a G10 on my MSI 980ti and went from a 1500mhz 24/7 OC to a 1529mhz 24/7 OC, didn't change much on the memory. I also have a modded bios, just moved the power limit up a bit.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> I'm still patiently awaiting the MSI GTX 1080 to come down to it's retail of $720 or w/e it is, probably wont be until later into July before.


https://www.nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/nvidia/gtx1080/

Keep a constant eye on that. That's how I got my preorder which should be shipping by Friday.

And if you want to save $20 keep an eye out for the Newegg exclusive GTX 1080 Gaming. It's the exact same card as the Gaming X but lacks the factory overclock presets. Just use Afterburner to overclock it and you get the Gaming X cooling system, backplate, and silly RGB LEDs for the price of the FE.


----------



## BigBeard86

Hey guys. Bad news. One of the copper vrm sinks fell off my card.

Now i have to figure out what is the best way to reattach the heatsink. The vrm surface is very small and i knew the copper heatsink would not hold strong. What should i do?


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> I'm still patiently awaiting the MSI GTX 1080 to come down to it's retail of $720 or w/e it is, probably wont be until later into July before
> I put a G10 on my MSI 980ti and went from a 1500mhz 24/7 OC to a 1529mhz 24/7 OC, didn't change much on the memory.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> https://www.nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/nvidia/gtx1080/
> 
> Keep a constant eye on that. That's how I got my preorder which should be shipping by Friday.
> 
> And if you want to save $20 keep an eye out for the Newegg exclusive GTX 1080 Gaming. It's the exact same card as the Gaming X but lacks the factory overclock presets. Just use Afterburner to overclock it and you get the Gaming X cooling system, backplate, and silly RGB LEDs for the price of the FE.


Will do, the reason why I may have to use Amazon is because I have a $400 giftcard there that I saved up







. Thank you for that site tho!


----------



## mr2cam

errr DP


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> Hey guys. Bad news. One of the copper vrm sinks fell off my card.
> 
> Now i have to figure out what is the best way to reattach the heatsink. The vrm surface is very small and i knew the copper heatsink would not hold strong. What should i do?


I am chosing the MSI 1080 mainly so I can avoid this issue since they have the VRM heatsinks screwed into the board, hopefully someone on here can help you!


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> Hey guys. Bad news. One of the copper vrm sinks fell off my card.
> 
> Now i have to figure out what is the best way to reattach the heatsink. The vrm surface is very small and i knew the copper heatsink would not hold strong. What should i do?


You have any thermal tape lying around?

I got this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400532025417?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Veiron

Has anyone here ever reported any failure (specifically on an nvidia card) due to not putting any heatsink in the VRM?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Veiron*
> 
> Has anyone here ever reported any failure (specifically on an nvidia card) due to not putting any heatsink in the VRM?


Yes Older less power efficient GPUs are an issue and even the more efficient ones can use a lot of power when overclocked. When the VRMs get overheated it causes stability issues and they can be damaged by heat.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> You have any thermal tape lying around?
> 
> I got this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400532025417?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


I do have thermal tape. What i did was remove the adhesive on the heatsink and replaced it with the thermal tape i have.

The bond feels stronger now. I also cleaned the chips very well before i did this,to make sure there wasn't any grease from the oem thermal pads that were on there.

How do you use the thermal tape?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> I do have thermal tape. What i did was remove the adhesive on the heatsink and replaced it with the thermal tape i have.
> 
> The bond feels stronger now. I also cleaned the chips very well before i did this,to make sure there wasn't any grease from the oem thermal pads that were on there.
> 
> How do you use the thermal tape?


Let me suggest something that works for me. Be sure the bottom of the heatsink and the top of the VRM chip is cleaned. To be clear the thermal tape works best when used under a heatsink that is attached to the PCB with screws. But if the tape is sticky enough or if using heatsink with the adhesive preapplied, attach them where you want them and then put some rubber bands around the card putting tension on the heatsinks to put some down pressure on them. Lay them flat and then heat up the tape/adhesive with a hair dryer or heatgun. Dont get it ridiculously hot but heat it enough to get the tape hot then lay it down and let it cool for a couple hours. This usually works for me.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Let me suggest something that works for me. Be sure the bottom of the heatsink and the top of the VRM chip is cleaned. To be clear the thermal tape works best when used under a heatsink that is attached to the PCB with screws. But if the tape is sticky enough or if using heatsink with the adhesive preapplied, attach them where you want them and then put some rubber bands around the card putting tension on the heatsinks to put some down pressure on them. Lay them flat and then heat up the tape/adhesive with a hair dryer or heatgun. Dont get it ridiculously hot but heat it enough to get the tape hot then lay it down and let it cool for a couple hours. This usually works for me.


Rubber bands! That's brilliant. Perhaps some silicone types would be better to tolerate the heat generated by the VRM's?

Btw I got these heatsinks incoming for the VRM on my G1 1080: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121675615045?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And your rubber bands gave me another idea, as the clearance left from G10 shroud and the top of these heatsinks will be roughly 0.4mm, would it be a good idea to stick lets say a 0.4 mm thick silicone pad on the area of the G10 shroud directly above the VRM's to apply the pressure needed, and thus ensuring the heatsinks will not fall off? (this will only be at the edges as the fan is in the middle)


----------



## moustang

MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X with G10 and Kraken X41.



I'm trying to decide if my temps are too high, or if it's just running hot due to ambient temps being so high. Ambient temp is 28-29C and under load it's running right about 48C. 48C seems high, but 19-20C above ambient with only 20% fan speed on the X41 doesn't seem excessive.

Guess I need to tweak that fan speed a bit and see if I can drop the temperatures. Hopefully I can keep it as quiet as it is now, because right now I can't even tell it's running. I had to open the case to make sure the fans were spinning.


----------



## Ultisym

Fan speed will increase cooling on these AIOs. But it definitely increases noise. 48C under load is perfectly fine however. Alot of the times you sacrifice a little temp overhead for it to be a little more quiet, if your happy with the noise at 48C, I would let it ride personally. You are never going to get an AIO completely quiet.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Fan speed will increase cooling on these AIOs. But it definitely increases noise. 48C under load is perfectly fine however. Alot of the times you sacrifice a little temp overhead for it to be a little more quiet, if your happy with the noise at 48C, I would let it ride personally. You are never going to get an AIO completely quiet.


Mine is as close to silent as I've heard from any cooler. Like I said, I had to take the side panels off to check to see if the fans were spinning. I can't hear it at all from my normal sitting position.

I bumped up the fan speed another 10%. Still can't hear it, at least not above the background noise of the AC running. It dropped the temps another 4C under load. I guess 44C under load with an ambient of 28C isn't too bad.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> . It dropped the temps another 4C under load. I guess 44C under load with an ambient of 28C isn't too bad.


Sounds like you have it dialed it well. Good job. Mine is similar though I do not claim it to be super quiet. What noise it makes certainly is not a problem and my numbers ae excellent. however the noise compared to the factory air coolers on these GPUs at max speed,well that makes these AIO/fan combos sound like a whisper. The noise form GPU Air coolers is a joke comparatively.


----------



## thiussat

Does anyone know if this fits a Gigabyte R9 390 Gaming G1? This card runs so hot and is loud at 100% fan speed. I don't want to build a custom loop (not worth the money), but would spend the money for this bracket if it fits. I can't find anything on Google directly answering this question.

If not I will probably just sell this card and get what I can for it.


----------



## bigblueshock

Was wondering if my temps are too high.

I have a GTX 980 TI with a Corsair H90 (pull fan out of rear). I'm hitting Max load of 65C. Idle around 27c.

Before I was getting 75c with 100% fan speed, sounded like a tornado.

Not sure if I have room to go down in temp. Im using stock corsair H90 thermal paste.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> Was wondering if my temps are too high.
> 
> I have a GTX 980 TI with a Corsair H90 (pull fan out of rear). I'm hitting Max load of 65C. Idle around 27c.
> 
> Before I was getting 75c with 100% fan speed, sounded like a tornado.
> 
> Not sure if I have room to go down in temp. Im using stock corsair H90 thermal paste.


The thermal paste that comes on the H90 is fine. Make sure the fan is set to exhaust from the case, make sure the pump is getting full power and the fan is as well. If that doesnt drop your temps some I would reseat the pump/cold block. Your temps are not bad but under gaming load you should be in the 50s.


----------



## HolaKYle

I'm officially part of the G10 Owner's Club! I installed it on my EVGA GTX 1080 SC card today. I installed it with the Corsair H105. I pretty much followed the exact instructions here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2SFSYl60jk

I used the spacers that he mentioned. For the copper, I ordered a 20mm x 20mm x 1.2mm plate from Amazon.

Let me know if you have any questions! My temps aren't going over 54 degrees Celsius with hard gaming.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HolaKYle*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm officially part of the G10 Owner's Club! I installed it on my EVGA GTX 1080 SC card today. I installed it with the Corsair H105. I pretty much followed the exact instructions here:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2SFSYl60jk
> 
> I used the spacers that he mentioned. For the copper, I ordered a 20mm x 20mm x 1.2mm plate from Amazon.
> 
> Let me know if you have any questions! My temps aren't going over 54 degrees Celsius with hard gaming.


Be sure the fans on the radiator are exhausting from e case. You will get your best results that way. From the pics it looks like your good though


----------



## bigblueshock

Ultisym,

Thanks for the info. I actually reapplied thermal paste, same 65c max. The h90 pump is max speed, and exhaust fan is max speed too. Both the radiator and tubes get fairly hot which is a good thing i assume. It should mean it's making good contact and dissipating correctly.

Here's two questions,

1) My VRM heatsinks get extremely hot to touch. Is there a recommend upgrade for the Kraken fan that's facing the VRM? I have a feeling it's limiting my overclock. I have a custom PCB 980 ti which came with a separate VRM heatsink luckily.

2) Less important, but just curious. I have my H90 in a pull config as exhaust like you stated. I would like to do a push pull but do not have enough room. Would it be a bad idea to put one of the fans on the outside of the case? If I could do this, I'd be able to do a push pull config which would probably lower my temps a bit more.

Edit: I noticed my VRM's have heatsinks, however my RAM is naked. Should I get the cosmos copper heatsinks from amazon and throw them on the RAM as well, or is that worthless?

I had to slightly lower my overclock by 25 MHz core because of nvidia crashes and trying to figure out why. Adjusting memory didn't help. Couldn't run a full firestrike at the same overclocked speeds as when I had my original MSI cooler. But what's odd is temps are a lot lower with the H90. That is why I'm thinkin VRM possibly


----------



## moustang

Since I'm now sitting here with an unused Kraken X41 I'm thinking about removing the fan from it and adding it to the one attached to my 1080 so I can run a push/pull configuration with the cooler.

No real reason not to. I've got the fan, I've got tons of room in my case, I just can't think of any good reason not to. In fact, I'm now wondering why I didn't think of it to begin with.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> Ultisym,
> 
> Thanks for the info. I actually reapplied thermal paste, same 65c max. The h90 pump is max speed, and exhaust fan is max speed too. Both the radiator and tubes get fairly hot which is a good thing i assume. It should mean it's making good contact and dissipating correctly.
> 
> Here's two questions,
> 
> 1) My VRM heatsinks get extremely hot to touch. Is there a recommend upgrade for the Kraken fan that's facing the VRM? I have a feeling it's limiting my overclock. I have a custom PCB 980 ti which came with a separate VRM heatsink luckily.
> 
> 2) Less important, but just curious. I have my H90 in a pull config as exhaust like you stated. I would like to do a push pull but do not have enough room. Would it be a bad idea to put one of the fans on the outside of the case? If I could do this, I'd be able to do a push pull config which would probably lower my temps a bit more.
> 
> Edit: I noticed my VRM's have heatsinks, however my RAM is naked. Should I get the cosmos copper heatsinks from amazon and throw them on the RAM as well, or is that worthless?
> 
> I had to slightly lower my overclock by 25 MHz core because of nvidia crashes and trying to figure out why. Adjusting memory didn't help. Couldn't run a full firestrike at the same overclocked speeds as when I had my original MSI cooler. But what's odd is temps are a lot lower with the H90. That is why I'm thinkin VRM possibly


1. They are going to get hot. As far as fan upgrades, im sure there are more powerful fans available. Perhaps see if you can direct flow from another fan to it as well. If its getting to hot it can certainly limit your OC. Need to get a temp on it somehow before you go there though IMO.

2. Sure you can pull through the case if the flow through the case top/side is good enough, I actually have all my radiator fans mouonted on the outside of my case pulling through the radiators for the GPUs and pushing for the CPU. You can buy some nice looking grills to keep it from looking ghetto if that bothers you. I think it turned out well on mine.

As for putting heatsinks on the VRAM, thats up to you. If you plan to really push the RAM overclock then they will certainly help with some stability on the highend of the OC. I have run them and not seen a significant difference, I do not do it anymore, but thats not to say thrtr isnt something to be gained putting heatsinks there. Just not a lot.


----------



## bigblueshock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> 1. They are going to get hot. As far as fan upgrades, im sure there are more powerful fans available. Perhaps see if you can direct flow from another fan to it as well. If its getting to hot it can certainly limit your OC. Need to get a temp on it somehow before you go there though IMO.
> 
> 2. Sure you can pull through the case if the flow through the case top/side is good enough, I actually have all my radiator fans mouonted on the outside of my case pulling through the radiators for the GPUs and pushing for the CPU. You can buy some nice looking grills to keep it from looking ghetto if that bothers you. I think it turned out well on mine.
> 
> As for putting heatsinks on the VRAM, thats up to you. If you plan to really push the RAM overclock then they will certainly help with some stability on the highend of the OC. I have run them and not seen a significant difference, I do not do it anymore, but thats not to say thrtr isnt something to be gained putting heatsinks there. Just not a lot.


Great. I will opt in for the push/pull config then.

I need to purchase two 140mm fans now. I'm looking at the Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM fans, however two of those come out to a whopping $52ish. I'm trying to debate if it's worth the price. Or do you have an opinion on other 140MM fans?


----------



## auraofjason

Hey guys, if I get a kraken g10 for my 1080 FE and want to put heatsinks on the vrm, what needs to be covered? Is where I circled all I need or am I missing something? Not sure if I even need the ones on the right.


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

I don't think you need the ones on the right. I think the FETs are the ones on the left.


----------



## bigblueshock

I know this may sound insane... I did some "poking around" yesterday and noticed the whole card was heats up. I suppose this is normal due to the GPU, VRM, etc.

Wouldn't it sound logical to toss heatsinks wherever possible to dissipate heat as much as you can? I may toss heatsinks on the Video Memory just to help out all around. Maybe it will shave a degree or two.

Does that sound nuts?


----------



## moustang

No, that's not nuts. That's essentially what MSI did which is why it is one of the best cooled cards on the market.










As a minimum you should have both your VRAM and VRM covered with heatsinks. Keeping both as cool as possible will improve both stability and lifespan when overclocking.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> I know this may sound insane... I did some "poking around" yesterday and noticed the whole card was heats up. I suppose this is normal due to the GPU, VRM, etc.
> 
> Wouldn't it sound logical to toss heatsinks wherever possible to dissipate heat as much as you can? I may toss heatsinks on the Video Memory just to help out all around. Maybe it will shave a degree or two.
> 
> Does that sound nuts?


Unless you are heavily overclocking the memory, it is running well under design limitations and the heat sinks will make no difference on the VRAM. If you are overclocking the memory heavily then it can add some stability. Some find it helps a little, others not. The VRMs should always have a heatsink and a good fan blowing on the heatsink if you are using something other than a vendor designed or reference cooler.


----------



## bigblueshock

Odd, my non-reference MSI looks almost the same, minus four RAM chips on top. Those aren't cooled.

Guess I wont waste my time buying RAM heatsinks. I just wish the U shaped heatsink around the GPU had a fan blowing on it. That heatsink gets decently hot. The NZXT Fan only blows on the ripple-shaped heatsink on the right side of card.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> 
> 
> Odd, my non-reference MSI looks almost the same, minus four RAM chips on top. Those aren't cooled.
> 
> Guess I wont waste my time buying RAM heatsinks. I just wish the U shaped heatsink around the GPU had a fan blowing on it. That heatsink gets decently hot. The NZXT Fan only blows on the ripple-shaped heatsink on the right side of card.


The midplate itself acts as a heatsink to some degree. Most of the heat from that area will be removed via the water pump/cold plate. Are you already running the G-10? You may need a copper shim if the surface on the GPU die is lower than the surface of the midplate.


----------



## bigblueshock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The midplate itself acts as a heatsink to some degree. Most of the heat from that area will be removed via the water pump/cold plate. Are you already running the G-10? You may need a copper shim if the surface on the GPU die is lower than the surface of the midplate.


Yep I'm running the G10. I actually tightened it a bit more, I suppose it wasn't tight enough. Now I max out in upper 50's instead of 65c.

I will double check if it's leveled. Does it hurt to put a shim even if it's leveled? what's the recommended size copper shim in terms of LxWxH? I see shims ranging from 15-20mm Length Width, and 0.3mm thick to over 1.3mm. I'd guess since 980 TI has a large die size, maybe the 20 x 20 x .8mm height maybe (On my MSI)

Edit I guess bigger doesnt hurt. So i would logically put thermal paste between shim and GPU, and more thermal paste between water block and shim?


----------



## bigblueshock

Looks like I answered my own question. Just watched a video on it, lol.

I don't think i need the shim because my plate does not extend to the GPU mounting holes. However, I wonder if it will aid with contact regardless, considering when I tightend it, it helped a bit. I just looked up for the 980 TI, shim size should be 25mm. Maybe I'll get a height of 1.2mm.

So the end question is, can it hurt to get a shim that's too thick? or will that just mean I wouldn't have to put as much pressure on the waterblock and more of a guarantee I'm making good contact.


----------



## moustang

You shouldn't need a shim at all for that card. The ONLY reason to use a shim is if the midplate obstructs the cooler and keeps it from seating on the GPU. Yours doesn't, the cooler should have no problems seating directly on the GPU without a shim.

Using a shim will actually reduce the cooling efficiency, you would be better off without one.


----------



## ombadboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X with G10 and Kraken X41.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to decide if my temps are too high, or if it's just running hot due to ambient temps being so high. Ambient temp is 28-29C and under load it's running right about 48C. 48C seems high, but 19-20C above ambient with only 20% fan speed on the X41 doesn't seem excessive.
> 
> Guess I need to tweak that fan speed a bit and see if I can drop the temperatures. Hopefully I can keep it as quiet as it is now, because right now I can't even tell it's running. I had to open the case to make sure the fans were spinning.


Did you require any copper shim to get the X41 to work with the MSI Gaming X 1080? Thinking of installing an AIO on mine as well just to make sure am dumping hot air outside the H440 rather than inside to keep the case overall cooler.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ombadboy*
> 
> Thinking of installing an AIO on mine as well just to make sure am dumping hot air outside the H440 rather than inside to keep the case overall cooler.


It makes a big difference.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Using a shim will actually reduce the cooling efficiency, you would be better off without one.


This is correct. If you do not have clearance issues shims should be avoided.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ombadboy*
> 
> Did you require any copper shim to get the X41 to work with the MSI Gaming X 1080? Thinking of installing an AIO on mine as well just to make sure am dumping hot air outside the H440 rather than inside to keep the case overall cooler.


Nope, I didn't need any shims. The cooler went straight on without any problems at all.

Since I was swapping the G10/X41 over from my 770 and everything was all assembled it was literally a 5 minute swap. Just removed the 4 screwtops to remove the cooler from the 770, put the NZXT backplate through the back of the Gaming X, cleaned off the old thermal paste from the cooler and GPU and put new on, and screwed it back down nice and snug. Went on nice and easy.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Since I was swapping the G10/X41 over from my 770 and everything was all assembled it was literally a 5 minute swap. Just removed the 4 screwtops to remove the cooler from the 770, put the NZXT backplate through the back of the Gaming X, cleaned off the old thermal paste from the cooler and GPU and put new on, and screwed it back down nice and snug. Went on nice and easy.


Ive done that from a pair of 770s, to a pair of 970s to my current 980s. Kind of nice .


----------



## mr2cam

Question for you guys, got a 1080 armor from MSI for a decent price and originally I was going to try it out and possibly keep it, but after I got it there were a few things that I didn't like about it, first off there is no backplate, ok I can live with that for now. The 2nd thing is that unlike the Gaming X card, I don't see any heatsinks on the VRM's, at first when I saw the picture online I thought it had to be missing the heatsinks, but then I got the card and I peaked between the cooler and the card and there is just a black peice of something covering the VRM's, my guess is that it is thermal padding but im not 100% sure. Here is a pic of the card without the cooler, I don't want to take the cooler off myself at the moment, because then I wont be able to return it. Also if that is thermal padding, will that be good enough for the G10? I upgraded the fan to a noctua fan.


----------



## mr2cam

So far its a pretty decent overclocker, nothing to write home about, this is with a +75 on the core and +250 on the memory.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/12774895


----------



## moustang

The 1080 Armor just has a large single piece heat spreader that covers both VRAM and VRM rather than the Gaming X heat spreader on the VRAM and heatsink on the VRM. The Gaming X will likely overclock a little better, but the cooling on the Armor is good enough as long as you aren't one of those people who just isn't satisfied unless you're in the top 1% of benchmark scores.

It's a metal heat spreader, not just thermal padding. Think of it like a low profile heatsink. Not quite as efficient, but does the job.


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> The 1080 Armor just has a large single piece heat spreader that covers both VRAM and VRM rather than the Gaming X heat spreader on the VRAM and heatsink on the VRM. The Gaming X will likely overclock a little better, but the cooling on the Armor is good enough as long as you aren't one of those people who just isn't satisfied unless you're in the top 1% of benchmark scores.
> 
> It's a metal heat spreader, not just thermal padding. Think of it like a low profile heatsink. Not quite as efficient, but does the job.


Thank you for the info, im honestly just looking for something to work with the G10 and for the price I got this card at a micro center im thinking I will stick with it for now, will report how it does with my H105.

Here is what I ended up with on air for firestrike..

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/12778718


----------



## ombadboy

Brilliant! Did you require any nylon washers or something extra than what comes in the box of the G10 and X41?

Also, do you think the heatsink/heatspread on the Gaming X is sufficient for cooling them down?


----------



## auraofjason

Would lowering the stock vrm fan speed to 900rpm be bad for my card's vrms? I have heatsinks on the mosfets; the default 1500rpm makes the little fan the loudest thing in my pc. It still seems to be blowing a decent (but much less) amount of air at 900rpm.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *auraofjason*
> 
> Would lowering the stock vrm fan speed to 900rpm be bad for my card's vrms? I have heatsinks on the mosfets; the default 1500rpm makes the little fan the loudest thing in my pc. It still seems to be blowing a decent (but much less) amount of air at 900rpm.


You can experiment with it. How is the fan hooked up for power now? Is it connected the the power header on the GPU or to a mainboard fan header?

I simply replaced the fans that came with it with some nonoxia silent fans. But you can reduce the speed on the fan if its connected to a mainboard header or you can put a capacitor on thefan to header cable if there is no adjustment. You can also get a fan controller though that is overkill for what your doing. With the right fans used, you can get software that you can set up a curve in relation to speed of fan and temp and use it for the entire system. Several ways to go about this.

You need to have a means of checking temps on the VRMs to determine the lowest speed you can choose without adversely affecting performance. I mean when the VRMs over heat, you will notice instability in the system. But even without feeling any instability, there could still be some that would only show up under certain situations.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ombadboy*
> 
> Brilliant! Did you require any nylon washers or something extra than what comes in the box of the G10 and X41?
> 
> Also, do you think the heatsink/heatspread on the Gaming X is sufficient for cooling them down?


Everything I needed came in the box. Depending on how you want to route the hoses to the radiator you may want a couple of extra zip ties, but that's all you need, and only if you're wanting to zip tie the hoses together for their full length. I didn't need any extra ones.

And yes, the heat spreader and heatsink on the Gaming X are absolutely good enough to keep them cool. I'm currently running mine at 2100mhz on the core and 11150 on the memory, rock solid stable and GPU temps under 50C under full load and extended use.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> Thank you for the info, im honestly just looking for something to work with the G10 and for the price I got this card at a micro center im thinking I will stick with it for now, will report how it does with my H105.
> 
> Here is what I ended up with on air for firestrike..
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/12778718


That's actually a very good score. Higher than mine thanks to your CPU. My old 4970k is just barely enough to break into the low 19000 range.


----------



## mr2cam

Hmm I got to looking at my old 980ti and I think the backplate (at least the mounting holes) are identicle to my 1080.. Might try to swap it over to the 1080 armor later today after work


----------



## auraofjason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You can experiment with it. How is the fan hooked up for power now? Is it connected the the power header on the GPU or to a mainboard fan header?
> 
> I simply replaced the fans that came with it with some nonoxia silent fans. But you can reduce the speed on the fan if its connected to a mainboard header or you can put a capacitor on thefan to header cable if there is no adjustment. You can also get a fan controller though that is overkill for what your doing. With the right fans used, you can get software that you can set up a curve in relation to speed of fan and temp and use it for the entire system. Several ways to go about this.
> 
> You need to have a means of checking temps on the VRMs to determine the lowest speed you can choose without adversely affecting performance. I mean when the VRMs over heat, you will notice instability in the system. But even without feeling any instability, there could still be some that would only show up under certain situations.


Right now it is plugged into my motherboard, on a y splitter along with the pump. I am able to control the rpm of both and for some reason the pump actually performs better (4-5c) at 60% speed rather than max, so I just leave them both at 60% which is where 900rpm comes from.

My best option is probably to just get one of those fan adapters to plug in this vrm fan into my gpu and control it that way. Thanks for the information.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> Hmm I got to looking at my old 980ti and I think the backplate (at least the mounting holes) are identicle to my 1080.. Might try to swap it over to the 1080 armor later today after work


Can you confirm if the black heatspreader on your card is in fact metal? One review wrote it was plastic and didn't serve any purpose other than add some rigidity to the card


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Can you confirm if the black heatspreader on your card is in fact metal? One review wrote it was plastic and didn't serve any purpose other than add some rigidity to the card


It is some kind of metal not plastic, just had the cooler off to inspect and installed the g10. Sadly my msi 980ti's backplate wont work with my 1080, so the card wants to sag because of this, have a temporary solution for now, going to try to get ahold of MSI and see if I can get a backplate to fit this thing. On another note, this card seems to respond well to the water cooling, did some tweeking and was able to go past 24,000 graphics score on firestrike, max temp so far was 38c. That was with 2100 on the core and 10,710 on the memory, don't think I have much more headroom on the core, not sure about the memory, what are people hitting mhz wize on the memory for these cards?

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/12803416


----------



## mr2cam

Another strange thing that I noticed about pascal is that when I had the air cooler on I was seeing voltage as high as 1075, and then when the card got above 62c it would throttle everything including the voltage, ok cool. But with it on water the voltage was strangely a lot lower then usual, it never passed 1050 at all during all my testing.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> Another strange thing that I noticed about pascal is that when I had the air cooler on I was seeing voltage as high as 1075, and then when the card got above 62c it would throttle everything including the voltage, ok cool. But with it on water the voltage was strangely a lot lower then usual, it never passed 1050 at all during all my testing.


Interesting, the lowered voltage may leave a little more space for overclocking.

Noted the max core you are running now is 2100 Mhz. Were you able to get this core speed before on air?


----------



## mr2cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Interesting, the lowered voltage may leave a little more space for overclocking.
> 
> Noted the max core you are running now is 2100 Mhz. Were you able to get this core speed before on air?


No, max OC on air was 2025, got a little more headroom because of the water cooling, currently running 2050 as my 24/7 OC, time will tell if it will hold up or not.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Can you confirm if the black heatspreader on your card is in fact metal? One review wrote it was plastic and didn't serve any purpose other than add some rigidity to the card


When I removed the backplate to install the g10 on my evga FE, I saw that it was plastic trash.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr2cam*
> 
> No, max OC on air was 2025, got a little more headroom because of the water cooling, currently running 2050 as my 24/7 OC, time will tell if it will hold up or not.


Mine downclocks to 1987 Mhz when the card reaches 67 C (74% fan), but at 100% fan it holds a max of 2012 Mhz at 52 C. It runs without crashing at higher clocks, but have to bring it down to 2012 Mhz for zero artifacts.

Now I'm thinking with my card watercooled. I could probably run like 2038 Mhz, or 2050 Mhz at hopefully 35-40C. Which is kind of average as far as overclocks go.


----------



## dentnu

Hi everyone I just installed my G10 on a MSi 1080 Gaming X. I am getting 30c idle and around 40c under load. Do those temps look okay ? Should I remove it and reapply thermal paste ? Thanks


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dentnu*
> 
> Hi everyone I just installed my G10 on a MSi 1080 Gaming X. I am getting 30c idle and around 40c under load. Do those temps look okay ? Should I remove it and reapply thermal paste ? Thanks


LOL, I think your good.


----------



## ombadboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dentnu*
> 
> Hi everyone I just installed my G10 on a MSi 1080 Gaming X. I am getting 30c idle and around 40c under load. Do those temps look okay ? Should I remove it and reapply thermal paste ? Thanks


What AIO did you use for your G10?


----------



## ombadboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Everything I needed came in the box. Depending on how you want to route the hoses to the radiator you may want a couple of extra zip ties, but that's all you need, and only if you're wanting to zip tie the hoses together for their full length. I didn't need any extra ones.
> 
> And yes, the heat spreader and heatsink on the Gaming X are absolutely good enough to keep them cool. I'm currently running mine at 2100mhz on the core and 11150 on the memory, rock solid stable and GPU temps under 50C under full load and extended use.


I just tried to do the installation yesterday following the G10 and X41 instructions step by step, but the GPU Screws arent long enough for the Nuts to get a good grip on.

I even tried to remove the foam pad on the G10's backplate but that caused the G10's backplate to not be flush with the GPU's backplate as the (two) spacers that tie the G10's backplate and GPU Screws 'fall' into the holes of the GPU backplate, if that makes any sense.

The manual : https://sta3-nzxtcorporation.netdna-ssl.com/uploads/download/attachment/294/Kraken-G10-manual-multi-language.pdf


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ombadboy*
> 
> I just tried to do the installation yesterday following the G10 and X41 instructions step by step, but the GPU Screws arent long enough for the Nuts to get a good grip on.
> 
> I even tried to remove the foam pad on the G10's backplate but that caused the G10's backplate to not be flush with the GPU's backplate as the (two) spacers that tie the G10's backplate and GPU Screws 'fall' into the holes of the GPU backplate, if that makes any sense.
> 
> The manual : https://sta3-nzxtcorporation.netdna-ssl.com/uploads/download/attachment/294/Kraken-G10-manual-multi-language.pdf


Skip the back plate altogether then. Just get some washers if the bolt heads are not big enough to not pull through.


----------



## ombadboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Skip the back plate altogether then. Just get some washers if the bolt heads are not big enough to not pull through.


Thanks for the suggestion. I'll drop by my local DIY store to get some nylon washers and some finishing washers just to be on the safe side.


----------



## dentnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ombadboy*
> 
> What AIO did you use for your G10?


I am using the Kraken X41


----------



## ombadboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dentnu*
> 
> I am using the Kraken X41


Out of curiosity, did you use the backplate of the G10? How did you find the installation?

Although Ultisym enlightened me with how to proceed, I was wondering if you had to do anything 'special' to get the X41, G10 installed on the MSI Gaming X 1080. In particular it seems the GPU screws aren't long enough.


----------



## dentnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ombadboy*
> 
> Out of curiosity, did you use the backplate of the G10? How did you find the installation?
> 
> Although Ultisym enlightened me with how to proceed, I was wondering if you had to do anything 'special' to get the X41, G10 installed on the MSI Gaming X 1080. In particular it seems the GPU screws aren't long enough.


It was really easy to install and I did use the backplate of the G10. All I did was remove the rubber foam form the g10 backplate and it fit perfectly. The screws were long enough once I removed the rubber foam.


----------



## nexxusty

So I have a 1080 FE, if I pick up a G10 I'll need sinks for the VRM and RAM?

Seems like a shame to remove all of the stock cooling. EVGA's Hybrid Kit design is MUCH better.


----------



## RaduZ

Did anyone try the Kraken with the rx 480? Does it fit?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaduZ*
> 
> Did anyone try the Kraken with the rx 480? Does it fit?


I do not believe anyone has tried it just yet. Im not seeing photos with the cooler off the GPU yet. Need to see some images of it.

EDIT: From the images I have found, it appears that the G-10 will work on this GPU BUT, the VRMs are on the output side of the PCB. This means that the fan that comes on the G-10 will not be over the VRMs. You will need to make sure that the VRMs have a heatsink and that there is adequate airflow over the VRMs. All doable but a little more work than the average install.


----------



## RaduZ

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I do not believe anyone has tried it just yet. Im not seeing photos with the cooler off the GPU yet. Need to see some images of it.
> 
> EDIT: From the images I have found, it appears that the G-10 will work on this GPU BUT, the VRMs are on the output side of the PCB. This means that the fan that comes on the G-10 will not be over the VRMs. You will need to make sure that the VRMs have a heatsink and that there is adequate airflow over the VRMs. All doable but a little more work than the average install.






I gues I will wait for the AIB versions to come out and hope one of those will fit. Thank you for taking the time to respond.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaduZ*
> 
> 
> I gues I will wait for the AIB versions to come out and hope one of those will fit. Thank you for taking the time to respond.


Sure thing. What i suggested is easy to accomplish, however if you can wait for the partner boards to come out, I agree that would be best.


----------



## mackanz

Slapped a Corsair H105 with the Kraken G10 on a Gainward Phoenix GTX 1080. Works awesome! After a whole night of gaming i see 55c load in Afterburner. Ambient temps here are 23c in the summer.

I have the H105 raidator in the top of a Define S with only pull on the fans. I'm sure the results would be better with the radiator in the front with push/pull, but i'm happy. All fans are Corsair radiator fans and are on the most silent setting connected to a cheap fan controller. I'm giving them just enough power to even make them spin.

I did not put any sinks on the memory or the VRM's.
The 92mm should provide good enough flow over those parts. Clocks when gaming is 2076/5510. Gained max 50 mhz on the core by going from air to the H105.

No throttling, no noise!


----------



## Trysaeder

How necessary are VRM heatsinks? I ran my 290 for years without them but now I've got a 980 I was thinking of overclocking it more.

Another thing - what sort of adhesive did you guys use to stick the heatsinks to the VRM? I tried using sekisui #5760 but the only things it wanted to stick to was everything except the vrm.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trysaeder*
> 
> How necessary are VRM heatsinks? I ran my 290 for years without them but now I've got a 980 I was thinking of overclocking it more.
> 
> Another thing - what sort of adhesive did you guys use to stick the heatsinks to the VRM? I tried using sekisui #5760 but the only things it wanted to stick to was everything except the vrm.


If your overclocking and/or over volting the GPU having a heatsink on the VRMs is very important. You could burn up the electrical subsystem on the card. It is still important to have heatsinks on the VRMs regardless as it increases stability and will increase the life of the GPU. If they start overheating it will show in various instabilities such as screen freezes etc.

Which GPU do you have? As for adhesive, the heatsinks I used came with it preinstalled. I would go with the double sided thermal tape personally. When you place them on the chips, put rubber bands around the card to put down pressure on them, lay them flat and use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the glue up. Dont over heat it and damage it, just get it good and warm so the tape gets a little gooey, then let it cool for a couple hours and you should be set.


----------



## cre3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> then let it cool for a couple hours and you should be set.


I see what you did there


----------



## cre3d

Threw the G10 on an Asus 1080 Strix OC with an H105 cooler and 2x Typhoon AP-15's @ 1200rpm in push. With power limit @ 120, +30 on core and +300 on memory I'm seeing a constant 2080 clock and never break 45C in Witcher 3. Firestrike doesn't break 40C. Stock cooler had temps reaching 78C and constant clock throttling as soon as it got anywhere past 60C. Not to mention the noise. This will be my 24/7 setting, waiting to put some heatsinks on the VRM's before increasing voltage.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre3d*
> 
> Threw the G10 on an Asus 1080 Strix OC with an H105 cooler and 2x Typhoon AP-15's @ 1200rpm in push. With power limit @ 120, +30 on core and +300 on memory I'm seeing a constant 2080 clock and never break 45C in Witcher 3. Firestrike doesn't break 40C. Stock cooler had temps reaching 78C and constant clock throttling as soon as it got anywhere past 60C. Not to mention the noise. This will be my 24/7 setting, waiting to put some heatsinks on the VRM's before increasing voltage.


Really?

No sinks on RAM or VRM and it's fine? Overclocked too...

Really want a stable boost on my 1080. I cannot stand GPU Boost 3.0. Wanting to pick something up to mount an AIO on it.

I have an FE though and I don't think the Kraken would fit with the FE's RAM/VRM solution. Almost positive...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> Really?
> 
> No sinks on RAM or VRM and it's fine? Overclocked too...
> 
> Really want a stable boost on my 1080. I cannot stand GPU Boost 3.0. Wanting to pick something up to mount an AIO on it.
> 
> I have an FE though and I don't think the Kraken would fit with the FE's RAM/VRM solution. Almost positive...


Why wouldnt it fit? Do you have any photos of it with cooler removed ?

As for the VRAM, its not really necessary to run heatsinks on them. If you plan on overclocking the memory heavily you can install them as every little bit helps, if nothing else it will add some stability


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Why wouldnt it fit? Do you have any photos of it with cooler removed ?
> 
> As for the VRAM, its not really necessary to run heatsinks on them. If you plan on overclocking the memory heavily you can install them as every little bit helps, if nothing else it will add some stability


I'm just going on Gamers Nexus DIY Hybrid videos and pictures of the disassembled card on Google Images.

From what I can tell the G10 won't fit over the stock solution.... I'd love some conformation on this.

I wish just the bracket was sold. I could cut it but... not feeling that.


----------



## auraofjason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> I'm just going on Gamers Nexus DIY Hybrid videos and pictures of the disassembled card on Google Images.
> 
> From what I can tell the G10 won't fit over the stock solution.... I'd love some conformation on this.
> 
> I wish just the bracket was sold. I could cut it but... not feeling that.


If you're talking about the stock baseplate on the FE, no the kraken won't just fit on that. If you put a copper shim on it, it will fit with the stock baseplate but you would have to somehow take out the fan mount on the kraken or the fan on the reference cooler. I was looking to do the same but just went with separate small heatsinks.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *auraofjason*
> 
> If you're talking about the stock baseplate on the FE, no the kraken won't just fit on that. If you put a copper shim on it, it will fit with the stock baseplate but you would have to somehow take out the fan mount on the kraken or the fan on the reference cooler. I was looking to do the same but just went with separate small heatsinks.


This is exactly what I don't want to do.

Heatsinks here cost way more than they should.

Thank you for clarifying!


----------



## JackCY

Ebay heatsinks from Asia are super cheap if you don't have your own stash of heatsinks.


----------



## Just Spear

Posting for great justice.

I have a slightly modified setup here with the G10 and a Corsair H80i V2 crammed very carefully onto it.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Just Spear*
> 
> Posting for great justice.
> 
> I have a slightly modified setup here with the G10 and a Corsair H80i V2 crammed very carefully onto it.


God that bracket looks ugly. Why didn't they make it flush with the PCB?

No offense intended sir. You just made my decision regarding the G10 very easy.

Appreciated.


----------



## Just Spear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> God that bracket looks ugly. Why didn't they make it flush with the PCB?
> 
> No offense intended sir. You just made my decision regarding the G10 very easy.
> 
> Appreciated.


Believe me, I feel you on the matter. At the time it was my only reasonable option for sticking that H80 on it, and even then it needed modification. Good news is this GPU will be replaced, hopefully. I am waiting on the new Titan. This one is the OG 700 series Titan.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Just Spear*
> 
> Believe me, I feel you on the matter. At the time it was my only reasonable option for sticking that H80 on it, and even then it needed modification. Good news is this GPU will be replaced, hopefully. I am waiting on the new Titan. This one is the OG 700 series Titan.


Haha glad to know I'm not too discerning.

Looks don't matter much at the end of a cards life.... OC the hell out of it until it's retired.


----------



## Just Spear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> Haha glad to know I'm not too discerning.
> 
> Looks don't matter much at the end of a cards life.... OC the hell out of it until it's retired.


About that.

I can't seem to OC it at all without artifacts. The GPU temp never climbs much past about 45c in gaming, the vram clocks are at stock. It's perplexing. I have had issues with this thing since day one. I pulled down a top 100 3dmark score with it in 2013, but I have since made no less than half a dozen attempts at swapping the BIOS to get results but nothing seems to work. I might try finding a memory specific heatsink (and vrm if I can), or machine one... but for the time being it works with my Oculus Rift at stock settings and stays nice and cool.

Honestly, if it lasts to the end of the year, then it will probably be donated to a friend.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Just Spear*
> 
> About that.
> 
> I can't seem to OC it at all without artifacts. The GPU temp never climbs much past about 45c in gaming, the vram clocks are at stock. It's perplexing. I have had issues with this thing since day one. I pulled down a top 100 3dmark score with it in 2013, but I have since made no less than half a dozen attempts at swapping the BIOS to get results but nothing seems to work. I might try finding a memory specific heatsink (and vrm if I can), or machine one... but for the time being it works with my Oculus Rift at stock settings and stays nice and cool.
> 
> Honestly, if it lasts to the end of the year, then it will probably be donated to a friend.


I'd look at your VRM temps. You have an IR Temp Gun?

Those cards OC very well. Doesn't make sense that it won't OC at all.


----------



## BigBeard86

What heatsinks on you guys using on your vrm? I keep having issues with them falling off.

Also, did anyone else notice on their cards the circled areas below also had thermal pads on them, fro mthe stock setup? did anyone else place heatsinks on these chips?


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> What heatsinks on you guys using on your vrm? I keep having issues with them falling off.
> 
> Also, did anyone else notice on their cards the circled areas below also had thermal pads on them, fro mthe stock setup? did anyone else place heatsinks on these chips?


Low profile copper on RAM and the tallest copper heatsinks you can find on the VRM.

If you're having problems with them sticking.... order 3m thermal tape. In fact... whenever you have tape that sucks or doesn't work as expected 3m will have something.

They're the best. Probably should work for them... lol.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> Low profile copper on RAM and the tallest copper heatsinks you can find on the VRM.
> 
> If you're having problems with them sticking.... order 3m thermal tape. In fact... whenever you have tape that sucks or doesn't work as expected 3m will have something.
> 
> They're the best. Probably should work for them... lol.


I did use 3m thermal tape and it still fell off...but not from the vrm chips, rather, the other ones that I circled. they are low profile copper heatsink on vram, vrm, and the other chips...maybe they are too heavy?

And tall heatsinks on vrm is better for heat dissipation? the low profile opne shave a lot more volume for heat transfer...usually the tall ones are very skinny.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> I did use 3m thermal tape and it still fell off...but not from the vrm chips, rather, the other ones that I circled. they are low profile copper heatsink on vram, vrm, and the other chips...maybe they are too heavy?
> 
> And tall heatsinks on vrm is better for heat dissipation? the low profile opne shave a lot more volume for heat transfer...usually the tall ones are very skinny.


3m thermal tape will hold basically any heatsink you'd use for RAM or VRM.

Definitely get some for the VRM. As long as you aren't forced to sacrifice surface area... the taller the better. You seem to have a handle on that though... Hehe.

*edit*

Did you clean the RAM chips thoroughly? Thermal pads leave a residue that makes thermal tape ineffective if it's not cleaned off.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> 3m thermal tape will hold basically any heatsink you'd use for RAM or VRM.
> 
> Definitely get some for the VRM. As long as you aren't forced to sacrifice surface area... the taller the better. You seem to have a handle on that though... Hehe.
> 
> *edit*
> 
> Did you clean the RAM chips thoroughly? Thermal pads leave a residue that makes thermal tape ineffective if it's not cleaned off.


Yeah I cleaned them off. I actually used some old Akasa or asaka thermal tape I had around. 3m thermal tape has better heat conductivity and stickiness? Could you point me to which one has the best of both?


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> Yeah I cleaned them off. I actually used some old Akasa or asaka thermal tape I had around. 3m thermal tape has better heat conductivity and stickiness? Could you point me to which one has the best of both?


I've just always used 3m thermal tape. I've never had an issue with it, sinks never fall off.

AFAIK just order a strip or roll of it and cut accordingly. That is the cheapest way and you'll have some for a long time. You can order directly from 3m I do believe.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> I've just always used 3m thermal tape. I've never had an issue with it, sinks never fall off.
> 
> AFAIK just order a strip or roll of it and cut accordingly. That is the cheapest way and you'll have some for a long time. You can order directly from 3m I do believe.


what model has the best thermal conductivity?


----------



## auraofjason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> What heatsinks on you guys using on your vrm? I keep having issues with them falling off.
> 
> Also, did anyone else notice on their cards the circled areas below also had thermal pads on them, fro mthe stock setup? did anyone else place heatsinks on these chips?


I used cosmos heatsinks found on amazon as recommended by a lot of people, they work great.

There were thermal pads on there for me as well on the stock cooler, but I did not put heatsinks in that area and it has been completely fine. A lot of aib and aftermarket coolers don't seem to cool that area either, such as EK blocks don't tell you to put thermal pads there.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *auraofjason*
> 
> I used cosmos heatsinks found on amazon as recommended by a lot of people, they work great.
> 
> There were thermal pads on there for me as well on the stock cooler, but I did not put heatsinks in that area and it has been completely fine. A lot of aib and aftermarket coolers don't seem to cool that area either, such as EK blocks don't tell you to put thermal pads there.


Which area is that? I don't remember forgoing thermal pads anywhere when installing a GPU waterblock.

Motherboards are a different story, some heatsinks are aethstetic only.

GPU, VRAM, VRM... nothing else to cool so I suppose the that's all I've ever installed with a water block.


----------



## auraofjason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> Which area is that? I don't remember forgoing thermal pads anywhere when installing a GPU waterblock.
> 
> Motherboards are a different story, some heatsinks are aethstetic only.
> 
> GPU, VRAM, VRM... nothing else to cool so I suppose the that's all I've ever installed with a water block.


The one BigBeard86 circled in his picture:


This is from an EK block's manual for the 1080, they don't tell you to place pads on them even though there are pads on them on the stock baseplate.


----------



## cre3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> Really?
> 
> No sinks on RAM or VRM and it's fine? Overclocked too...
> 
> Really want a stable boost on my 1080. I cannot stand GPU Boost 3.0. Wanting to pick something up to mount an AIO on it.
> 
> I have an FE though and I don't think the Kraken would fit with the FE's RAM/VRM solution. Almost positive...


No sinks and yes, it's perfectly fine through 6+ hour sessions of Witcher 3 @ 3440x1440 running nonstop 2080Mhz core. These cards don't pull nearly the power that R9's or even the previous GTX generation did -- The VRM's get cooling from the fan and mine in particular has a backplate as well that aids a bit in dissipation of overall card heat.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre3d*
> 
> No sinks and yes, it's perfectly fine through 6+ hour sessions of Witcher 3 @ 3440x1440 running nonstop 2080Mhz core. These cards don't pull nearly the power that R9's or even the previous GTX generation did -- The VRM's get cooling from the fan and mine in particular has a backplate as well that aids a bit in dissipation of overall card heat.


While you may be able to get away with out heatsinks on the VRMs it is ill advised to do so. They come from the factory with some sort of a heatsink for a reason. When the GPU is overclocked and especially overvolted, you stand a much higher chance of damaging the VRMs. Even if that were not the case, it will extend the life of the VRMs. Its such a cheap and simple thing to do.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> While you may be able to get away with out heatsinks on the VRMs it is ill advised to do so. They come from the factory with some sort of a heatsink for a reason. When the GPU is overclocked and especially overvolted, you stand a much higher chance of damaging the VRMs. Even if that were not the case, it will extend the life of the VRMs. Its such a cheap and simple thing to do.


Not to mention being much less efficient being air cooled only.

Lifespan is a real thing with only a fan cooling them. I'd never do that....


----------



## cre3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> While you may be able to get away with out heatsinks on the VRMs it is ill advised to do so. They come from the factory with some sort of a heatsink for a reason. When the GPU is overclocked and especially overvolted, you stand a much higher chance of damaging the VRMs. Even if that were not the case, it will extend the life of the VRMs. Its such a cheap and simple thing to do.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> Not to mention being much less efficient being air cooled only.
> 
> Lifespan is a real thing with only a fan cooling them. I'd never do that....


If you read my original post you would know this is a temporary measure. Now, as much as this is harped on by most individuals of this and other forums -- I have yet to read a post about someone "burning up their VRM's". Combine that with the anecdotal evidence that is my 2 year old overclocked 290 with no active VRM cooling (free card and I just never got around to it), and you can probably see how this is likely an exaggerated concern.

Now, having said that, I would never recommend AGAINST additional cooling on electronics that could potentially stand to benefit from it; especially given how cheap the solution is. Certainly on a $700 card.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre3d*
> 
> If you read my original post you would know this is a temporary measure. Now, as much as this is harped on by most individuals of this and other forums -- I have yet to read a post about someone "burning up their VRM's". Combine that with the anecdotal evidence that is my 2 year old overclocked 290 with no active VRM cooling (free card and I just never got around to it), and you can probably see how this is likely an exaggerated concern.
> 
> Now, having said that, I would never recommend AGAINST additional cooling on electronics that could potentially stand to benefit from it; especially given how cheap the solution is. Certainly on a $700 card.


It is not an "Exaggerated concern". While your card has apparently survived with out a heat sink on the VRMs, the next person that tries it could have their GPU ruined. This is one of the things that needs to be done when using the G-10, Period. What i said was not meant as a shot at you, its simply clarifying the fact that people need to do this. Many people simply browse though the forum and do not always see all the posts.


----------



## yenclas

Hello,

I'm spanish, sorry by my bad English.

I'm thinking to put my Kraken G10 with mi Palit 1080 Gamerock to get constant clocks and 0 noise.

The pcb of this card is this:

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Palit/GeForce_GTX_1080_GameRock/images/front.jpg

Can you help me where to buy good heatsink's to cool VRM of this card ?


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre3d*
> 
> If you read my original post you would know this is a temporary measure. Now, as much as this is harped on by most individuals of this and other forums -- I have yet to read a post about someone "burning up their VRM's". Combine that with the anecdotal evidence that is my 2 year old overclocked 290 with no active VRM cooling (free card and I just never got around to it), and you can probably see how this is likely an exaggerated concern.
> 
> Now, having said that, I would never recommend AGAINST additional cooling on electronics that could potentially stand to benefit from it; especially given how cheap the solution is. Certainly on a $700 card.


It's not exaggerated concern. You without a shadow of a doubt lowered the life of your 290 VRM's and are currently doing the same with your 1080 by running them out of spec.

VRM's are less efficient the hotter they get as well, your setup may "work" however your energy efficiency is crap.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm spanish, sorry by my bad English.
> 
> I'm thinking to put my Kraken G10 with mi Palit 1080 Gamerock to get constant clocks and 0 noise.
> 
> The pcb of this card is this:
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Palit/GeForce_GTX_1080_GameRock/images/front.jpg
> 
> Can you help me where to buy good heatsink's to cool VRM of this card ?


Have you already bought the GPU? If not look ver a version that has a VRM heat sink attached to the PCB and not the cooler.

Something like this will work.

http://www.superbiiz.com/photogallary.php?name=FAN-ICY290&thisimage_LG=%2Fnewg%2FF%2FA%2FN%2FFAN-ICY290%2FFAN-ICY290_LG.JPG


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Have you already bought the GPU? If not look ver a version that has a VRM heat sink attached to the PCB and not the cooler.
> 
> Something like this will work.
> 
> http://www.superbiiz.com/photogallary.php?name=FAN-ICY290&thisimage_LG=%2Fnewg%2FF%2FA%2FN%2FFAN-ICY290%2FFAN-ICY290_LG.JPG


Yes, I bought the card and running it now


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Yes, I bought the card and running it now


That ok, you can pull this off. Go back and see what everyone else is using. make sure the top of all chips are cleaned well before attaching tape etc to it, use a rubber band to hold them and place and heat them up some so the glue gets good and tacky then let it cool for a couple hours.


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Something like this will work.
> 
> http://www.superbiiz.com/photogallary.php?name=FAN-ICY290&thisimage_LG=%2Fnewg%2FF%2FA%2FN%2FFAN-ICY290%2FFAN-ICY290_LG.JPG


This heatshink work with my pcb ? sure ?


----------



## SyncR

Hi guys, currently have a MSI Gaming 980Ti but it runs insanely hot, thinking of using a G10 on it, but also thinking of going SLI with a EVGA SC/FTW card and wondering do either need heatsinks on the VRMs/memory chips?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SyncR*
> 
> Hi guys, currently have a MSI Gaming 980Ti but it runs insanely hot, thinking of using a G10 on it, but also thinking of going SLI with a EVGA SC/FTW card and wondering do either need heatsinks on the VRMs/memory chips?


Find an image of your GPU on one of the review sites where the cooler is removed and see if the VRM heatsinks are attached to the PCB or not. If it isnt then you will need to put heat sinks on the VRMs.


----------



## SyncR

Thanks man, seems like MSI and EVGA both use a decent sized heatsink on there boards

Edit: Forgot to ask, how are you guys controlling the fan and pump? I was thinking of using a fan splitter and then having GPU control the speed of them


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SyncR*
> 
> Thanks man, seems like MSI and EVGA both use a decent sized heatsink on there boards
> 
> Edit: Forgot to ask, how are you guys controlling the fan and pump? I was thinking of using a fan splitter and then having GPU control the speed of them


The pump really needs to be on a 12V connection, I good option if you do not have any fan headers available is something like a molex plug to fan adapter. They are cheap and easy to find. The fan can be split with another I would think without issue.

Some get an adapter and plug the fan into the PWM headers on the GPU PCB.


----------



## SyncR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The pump really needs to be on a 12V connection, I good option if you do not have any fan headers available is something like a molex plug to fan adapter. They are cheap and easy to find. The fan can be split with another I would think without issue.
> 
> Some get an adapter and plug the fan into the PWM headers on the GPU PCB.


Thanks again man, and sorry for most likely dumb questions

I'll check mobo, most I've seen only have 1 on so I guess I'll put rest on molex, and yeah was gonna get adapter so afterburner could control that fan, makes it a bit tidier too


----------



## cre3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> It is not an "Exaggerated concern". While your card has apparently survived with out a heat sink on the VRMs, the next person that tries it could have their GPU ruined. This is one of the things that needs to be done when using the G-10, Period. What i said was not meant as a shot at you, its simply clarifying the fact that people need to do this. Many people simply browse though the forum and do not always see all the posts.


It's an exaggerated concern in that most people blow the severity of the repercussions of not adding heatsinks to their mosfets out of proportion. Yes, it is absolutely recommended to add additional passive/active cooling to electronic components to aid in their longevity. No, your card will not "melt" or die out of nowhere. There are things such as thermal limit protections within the mosfets themselves, safe operating temperature ranges (of which most mosfets have a minimum of 100C as their max, up to 160C+ on some) and these days even higher level protections within the power delivery logic that will keep you from destroying your card that quickly. I have a pair of 560ti-448 cards that have been running overclocked in SLI on kraken g10's with no additional VRM cooling other than the fan on the bracket for 6 years. They are fine. There are users on mining forums that have been running r9's 24/7/365 and not destroyed their cards, which are notoriously power hungry and get extremely hot in the VRM area. Long story short, I agree but let's be realistic.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre3d*
> 
> It's an exaggerated concern in that most people blow the severity of the repercussions of not adding heatsinks to their mosfets out of proportion. Yes, it is absolutely recommended to add additional passive/active cooling to electronic components to aid in their longevity. No, your card will not "melt" or die out of nowhere. There are things such as thermal limit protections within the mosfets themselves, safe operating temperature ranges (of which most mosfets have a minimum of 100C as their max, up to 160C+ on some) and these days even higher level protections within the power delivery logic that will keep you from destroying your card that quickly. I have a pair of 560ti-448 cards that have been running overclocked in SLI on kraken g10's with no additional VRM cooling other than the fan on the bracket for 6 years. They are fine. There are users on mining forums that have been running r9's 24/7/365 and not destroyed their cards, which are notoriously power hungry and get extremely hot in the VRM area. Long story short, I agree but let's be realistic.


It's more of a technicality really than and actual worry.

On a $1k GPU I'm not taking any chances.


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre3d*
> 
> It's an exaggerated concern in that most people blow the severity of the repercussions of not adding heatsinks to their mosfets out of proportion. Yes, it is absolutely recommended to add additional passive/active cooling to electronic components to aid in their longevity. No, your card will not "melt" or die out of nowhere. There are things such as thermal limit protections within the mosfets themselves, safe operating temperature ranges (of which most mosfets have a minimum of 100C as their max, up to 160C+ on some) and these days even higher level protections within the power delivery logic that will keep you from destroying your card that quickly. I have a pair of 560ti-448 cards that have been running overclocked in SLI on kraken g10's with no additional VRM cooling other than the fan on the bracket for 6 years. They are fine. There are users on mining forums that have been running r9's 24/7/365 and not destroyed their cards, which are notoriously power hungry and get extremely hot in the VRM area. Long story short, I agree but let's be realistic.


I put my G10 and Corsair H55 finally in my Palit 1080 Gamerock without heatsinks. Tested yesterday Unigine Heaven, FIrestrike, gaming... without any problems


----------



## trento

The fan itself should be enough to cool the vrms. However, long term, it's possible that the vrms may overheat. Will be good to monitor the temps just to see if it's getting too high.

The main issue with the vrms comes from the R9 290 where the vrm was on the other side and there was no fan to cool it. Some users experienced vrm damage.

I don't really like putting heatsinks on as i find it's not secure. It's still best to get a gpu which comes with pre-fitted vrms heatsinks. Try to get those models where possible. It's not going to cost a lot more anyway.


----------



## Name Change

Sup Guys

Does anyone know if the Enermax Liqtech 120X will fit the G10.. my fans died on the G1 gaming and have brand new Enermax Liqtech 120X sitting here. Also have a old Corsair H70...
Will either of those fit..
thx..


----------



## Zimzoid

Hey man, not sure about the Enermax but the H70 definitely will fit.


----------



## jerrylllll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badexample*
> 
> Awesome! I'll do this with my upcoming 1080 EVGA FTW.
> 
> I bought some shim from ebay.. tough to find the right measurements.. The shim will need some dremel trim!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Website for measurements for the GPU
> http://videocardz.com/59288/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-gp104-400-gpu-pictured-paired-with-gddr5x-memory
> 
> Another cool video for the mod: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weV0FlahyDo&feature=youtu.be
> 
> Bought some Artic thermal pads for the front and backplate as well to replace the oem stuff underneath the plates.
> 
> https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/thermal-pad.html.. I used this in my laptop and killed the temperature by a lot.


Hey sorry for bring this up again, how's the card running? is the copper shim working?
I think the only ones with separate vrm heatsinks are msi and evga. msi has the warranty void sticker on the screw so I am planning to get evga
If you can, some pictures would be nice


----------



## ikjadoon

Are people seeing better temperatures with 60mm radiators? I'm thinking about trying an Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 120: 60mm + push/pull for only $65.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> Are people seeing better temperatures with 60mm radiators? I'm thinking about trying an Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 120: 60mm + push/pull for only $65.


As a general rule the more surface area the better the potential to transfer heat, but 60mm is getting on up there, lol. Are you having temp issues still or are you just wanting to play around with mods and see how low you can get it? Even if you are , nothing wrong with it. Just let us know the numbers if you do it.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> As a general rule the more surface area the better the potential to transfer heat, but 60mm is getting on up there, lol. Are you having temp issues still or are you just wanting to play around with mods and see how low you can get it? Even if you are , nothing wrong with it. Just let us know the numbers if you do it.


Haha, just wanting to play around, especially if I grab a Pascal card.

For sure. It probably won't be a big difference, but I'll post results either way, haha.


----------



## fezzad

Heyup guys, finally stuck a g10 on my gpu , i have the Msi gtx 770 twin frozr 2gb version, it has a midplate that acts as a heatsink, i take it this will suffice for vrm cooling, the card itself is cool enough to touch even after maxed settings in bf4.

Il post a few pics up when i get a chance.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fezzad*
> 
> Heyup guys, finally stuck a g10 on my gpu , i have the Msi gtx 770 twin frozr 2gb version, it has a midplate that acts as a heatsink, i take it this will suffice for vrm cooling, the card itself is cool enough to touch even after maxed settings in bf4.
> 
> Il post a few pics up when i get a chance.


If it covers the VRMs then it should suffice. This Mod allowed the 770s I ran to increase clocks speed significantly. Great mod for them.


----------



## fezzad

The mid plate covers most of the gpu didn't realise it even had one to be honest until i stripped it. has twin fans directly next to the gpu anyway so adds extra cooling,

Ive added a few photos anyway couple of the original build (bit dusty on all needs a good clean)

Original setup- just the cpu with an aio brilliant cooler very underrated, sat at 27C with ambient temps of circa 18-24C

I moved the spare mid case fan to the back of the case as a twin exhaust.

G10 and pump all mounted in.

Twin Fan setup sat at 80% max temps so far was 48C on bf4 Settings on High/Ultra no vsync or aa



I purchased the h55 cooler from corsair but since i had a spare sp120 fan ive hooked that up on the back as a twin setup not had temps above 50 yet considering the h55 was £44 from amazon and the fan spare cant grumble at all.

I overclocked the gtx 770 and my i5 4690k and temps didn't go over 75C/65C for either so its cooled the rig no end saves all the hot air from the gpu fans heating the case up.

Currently running stock. Only overclocked to see the potential- quite happy with the outcome good setup for the next gpu if i purchase one lol this one is still a beast.

oh and please excuse the dust eeek , taking it in to work to clean out tomorrow.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fezzad*
> 
> The mid plate covers most of the gpu didn't realise it even had one to be honest until i stripped it. has twin fans directly next to the gpu anyway so adds extra cooling,
> 
> Ive added a few photos anyway couple of the original build (bit dusty on all needs a good clean)
> 
> Original setup- just the cpu with an aio brilliant cooler very underrated, sat at 27C with ambient temps of circa 18-24C
> 
> I moved the spare mid case fan to the back of the case as a twin exhaust.
> 
> G10 and pump all mounted in.
> 
> Twin Fan setup sat at 80% max temps so far was 48C on bf4 Settings on High/Ultra no vsync or aa
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased the h55 cooler from corsair but since i had a spare sp120 fan ive hooked that up on the back as a twin setup not had temps above 50 yet considering the h55 was £44 from amazon and the fan spare cant grumble at all.
> 
> I overclocked the gtx 770 and my i5 4690k and temps didn't go over 75C/65C for either so its cooled the rig no end saves all the hot air from the gpu fans heating the case up.
> 
> Currently running stock. Only overclocked to see the potential- quite happy with the outcome good setup for the next gpu if i purchase one lol this one is still a beast.
> 
> oh and please excuse the dust eeek , taking it in to work to clean out tomorrow.


Stock 770 with BF4? What res you using? 720p?


----------



## fezzad

No 1080p res ,averages about 65-80 fps but nice and cold was very surprised with the results as without the cooler it was normally 75C in a few minutes even with the twin frozr


----------



## fezzad

I know its overclocked at the factory being the msi gaming series but im not sure how much , i did try the overclock of the gpu temps were quite high until i added the cooler , i had the H55 rad fans at 90% and was shocked at how cold it kept it but at 80% they struggled a bit so i downclocked back to stock and have left the fans at 80% works a treat , il post some screens next time im on. Quite surprised just how good these 770s are , dont forget though bf4 is quite cpu intensive so that does a bit of the work.


----------



## Badexample

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrylllll*
> 
> Hey sorry for bring this up again, how's the card running? is the copper shim working?
> I think the only ones with separate vrm heatsinks are msi and evga. msi has the warranty void sticker on the screw so I am planning to get evga
> If you can, some pictures would be nice


What is up?







I am still waiting on my card from NCIX. Will call tomorrow again. EVGA had production issues. I have different sizes shims to try.. I will post pic of everything if I get the damn thing one day! LOL


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> Stock 770 with BF4? What res you using? 720p?


770 is plenty strong if your not maxing out all the eye candy.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> 770 is plenty strong if your not maxing out all the eye candy.


Yup. On my GTX 770, I used to get 100+ FPS on 1080p w/ 2x AA with a mix of medium/high/HBAO with mesh on Ultra. Surprisingly, considering it's just an OC'd GTX 680.


----------



## Kold

Can confirm the GTX 1080 FTW works with the G10. You will need a 2.0mm copper shim if you want to keep the mid plate on. Temps range from 45-55C @1.093V with the core clock hitting 2139MHz. The FTW cooler was excellent as well and very quiet, but because the card would reach temps of 72-75C, I was losing quite a bit of MHz on the core. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Edit: I used an H55 with Geild GC Extreme TIM and a quiet 1500RPM Noiseblocker eLoop fan. Temps might be lower with the louder and faster Corsair fan that was packaged with the H55.


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Can confirm the GTX 1080 FTW works with the G10. You will need a 2.0mm copper shim if you want to keep the mid plate on. Temps range from 45-55C @1.093V with the core clock hitting 2139MHz. The FTW cooler was excellent as well and very quiet, but because the card would reach temps of 72-75C, I was losing quite a bit of MHz on the core. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
> 
> Edit: I used an H55 with Geild GC Extreme TIM and a quiet 1500RPM Noiseblocker eLoop fan. Temps might be lower with the louder and faster Corsair fan that was packaged with the H55.


To add to this i had a h105 on my msi gaming x 1080 with the G10.

Max temp of 40c on max load at 1440p 144hz so was at 99% pretty much all the time.

No shim needed for the msi.


----------



## nexxusty

Tings.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> To add to this i had a h105 on my msi gaming x 1080 with the G10.
> 
> Max temp of 40c on max load at 1440p 144hz so was at 99% pretty much all the time.
> 
> No shim needed for the msi.


You know, MSI really nailed the AIO add-in crowd this time. You get free VRAM/VRM cooling (at least the heatsink part, not the fan,







) and no shims needed because the VRAM/VRM metal plate is far enough away from the die.

+1 MSI, +1 to you!


----------



## jerrylllll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Can confirm the GTX 1080 FTW works with the G10. You will need a 2.0mm copper shim if you want to keep the mid plate on. Temps range from 45-55C @1.093V with the core clock hitting 2139MHz. The FTW cooler was excellent as well and very quiet, but because the card would reach temps of 72-75C, I was losing quite a bit of MHz on the core. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
> 
> Edit: I used an H55 with Geild GC Extreme TIM and a quiet 1500RPM Noiseblocker eLoop fan. Temps might be lower with the louder and faster Corsair fan that was packaged with the H55.


I am still waiting for the card and I ordered 20*20*1.2 shim already
did you try using 1.2mm shim? and do you have a link for the 2.0mm shim?


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrylllll*
> 
> I am still waiting for the card and I ordered 20*20*1.2 shim already
> did you try using 1.2mm shim? and do you have a link for the 2.0mm shim?


www.ebay.com/itm/252456354470

Those are 15x15x2mm. The new Pascal die is much smaller. My 20x20 covered well passed to die.

Also, i have an H105 connected to my CPU. Hmm.. I may try switching them lol.


----------



## jerrylllll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> www.ebay.com/itm/252456354470
> 
> Those are 15x15x2mm. The new Pascal die is much smaller. My 20x20 covered well passed to die.
> 
> Also, i have an H105 connected to my CPU. Hmm.. I may try switching them lol.


The die is around 15*17.5 I think its better to get slightly larger shim
I'm planning to use x31 for the gpu. used to had it on msi 390 but still running 65-70 and the liquid temp at 60 with the noctua fan @100% lol


----------



## jerrylllll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> www.ebay.com/itm/252456354470
> 
> Those are 15x15x2mm. The new Pascal die is much smaller. My 20x20 covered well passed to die.
> 
> Also, i have an H105 connected to my CPU. Hmm.. I may try switching them lol.


Do you have the link for 20*20*2mm shim? I can't find one on ebay


----------



## ikjadoon

An interesting factoid I just found out: apparently, Asetek is moving away from tubes coming out the side. Those are Gen4 Asetek AIOs. Gen5 Asetek will use tubes coming out the top. Apparently, Gen5 has modified cold plates and pump design, as well, according to some random guy in the comments there, haha.

Curious. What does that mean for the Kraken G10?


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrylllll*
> 
> The die is around 15*17.5 I think its better to get slightly larger shim
> I'm planning to use x31 for the gpu. used to had it on msi 390 but still running 65-70 and the liquid temp at 60 with the noctua fan @100% lol


Ah, thank you for the information. So there y'all go. Stick with 20x20mm.

As for a link, I am also unable to find them in 2.0mm. I'll check my shims when I get home. I'm pretty sure they were 20x20, but they could be 25x25 which would explain why it went so far over the edges.


----------



## jerrylllll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Ah, thank you for the information. So there y'all go. Stick with 20x20mm.
> 
> As for a link, I am also unable to find them in 2.0mm. I'll check my shims when I get home. I'm pretty sure they were 20x20, but they could be 25x25 which would explain why it went so far over the edges.


http://videocardz.com/59288/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-gp104-400-gpu-pictured-paired-with-gddr5x-memory
sorry I just checked it's 20*17.5


----------



## bigblueshock

I haven't posted in a few weeks, but I'm trying to figure out how to drop a few degrees...

Just a few pre requisites to the situation and build.

GTX 980 TI
Corsair H90 with Stock fan (MAX speed)
Exhaust out back, fan is in pull position.

During stress.. I creep at 59C. Room itself is around 24C (75F) unfortunately. In the winter it will be a lot cooler, but it's not winter yet.. heh

Does anyone think a set of the new Corsair ML140's in push pull will at least drop this by a few degrees? Like i said, right now I'm using the stock H90 fan in a pull scenario as exhaust.


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> I haven't posted in a few weeks, but I'm trying to figure out how to drop a few degrees...
> 
> Just a few pre requisites to the situation and build.
> 
> GTX 980 TI
> Corsair H90 with Stock fan (MAX speed)
> Exhaust out back, fan is in pull position.
> 
> During stress.. I creep at 59C. Room itself is around 24C (75F) unfortunately. In the winter it will be a lot cooler, but it's not winter yet.. heh
> 
> Does anyone think a set of the new Corsair ML140's in push pull will at least drop this by a few degrees? Like i said, right now I'm using the stock H90 fan in a pull scenario as exhaust.


that seems very hot for a h90.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> I haven't posted in a few weeks, but I'm trying to figure out how to drop a few degrees...
> 
> Just a few pre requisites to the situation and build.
> 
> GTX 980 TI
> Corsair H90 with Stock fan (MAX speed)
> Exhaust out back, fan is in pull position.
> 
> During stress.. I creep at 59C. Room itself is around 24C (75F) unfortunately. In the winter it will be a lot cooler, but it's not winter yet.. heh
> 
> Does anyone think a set of the new Corsair ML140's in push pull will at least drop this by a few degrees? Like i said, right now I'm using the stock H90 fan in a pull scenario as exhaust.


You say you "creep" to 59C. Does it ever go over that temp? High 50s C are about right for temps on that GPU at full use (benchmarking etc).


----------



## bigblueshock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> that seems very hot for a h90.


I'm sure the GPU is pushing at/around/over 300W TDP at this point. I have power limit set to 120%. This is a Ti and not a regular 980.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You say you "creep" to 59C. Does it ever go over that temp? High 50s C are about right for temps on that GPU at full use (benchmarking etc).


Never goes over 59c after the reseat, whether it be benchmarking, or playing games such as The Division, Overwatch, Rainbow Six Siege, etc.

Before I was hitting 67c and my card was crashing me out of games. It seems the cooler wasn't tight enough. Reseating fixed it.

I just thought if I could shave a few more degrees off, I'd be able to get a few more MHz out of it. I'm at a little over 1500 core now (w/boost)


----------



## Ultisym

Under max output conditions, my 980s will get as high as 57C. I couple more degrees seems reasonable for a TI version. You can try some better fans and/or go with push/pull configuration. Should be 2 or 3 C there if its bothering you running at 59. I would consider that a normal temp for a card benchmarking. What temps do you get when you are simply gaming?


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> I'm sure the GPU is pushing at/around/over 300W TDP at this point. I have power limit set to 120%. This is a Ti and not a regular 980.
> Never goes over 59c after the reseat, whether it be benchmarking, or playing games such as The Division, Overwatch, Rainbow Six Siege, etc.
> 
> Before I was hitting 67c and my card was crashing me out of games. It seems the cooler wasn't tight enough. Reseating fixed it.
> 
> I just thought if I could shave a few more degrees off, I'd be able to get a few more MHz out of it. I'm at a little over 1500 core now (w/boost)


So did I and mine was zotac amp extreme and even at max load on a boiling day looping benches it never even touched 50c.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I played with an H55 i got as part of a trade on one of my 770s a couple weeks back when I was swapping over from the 3770k/Z77 to 4790k/Z97 setup. Literally had an H55 on one 770 and an H90 on the other 770. I otherwise run H90s on my 770s. The difference I saw was ~ 3 deg C between running the H55 and the H90. With the numbers down as low as they are with this mod, unless you are shooting for absolute lowest temps possible, I do not see the point on spending more for the H90 personally.
> 
> The only caveat to my less than scientific comparison was that it was performed on the bench and not in the case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Your probably looking at a 5 to 8C increase based on some of the comparisons I have read.


Sorry to bring up this old subject. You're right; it's not the radiator that makes a difference. However, there is a thermal bottleneck and it looks like it's the coldplate or pump (or both).

Look at this testing, comparing the Corsair H55 (Asetek 550LC) to EVGA's Hybrid (Asetek 740LC) on the GTX 980 Ti. Both are single 120mm radiators, 27mm thick. However, the 740LC uses an extruded coldplate and 3.1W pump, versus the 550LC that uses a flat coldplate and 2.1W pump. The 740GN gave *10-19C lower load temperatures*. Sure, _anything_ always better than air, but 10-19C are sizeable drops.
Quote:


> Whereas MSI has used Corsair's CPU-centric H55 AIO (basically Asetek's 550LC), EVGA has decided to utilize a version of the GPU-specific Asetek 740LC. The visual differences between the two are minor at best but internally the *740LC has a contact plate specifically designed for GPU cores*, something the H55 lacks due to its CPU cooling roots.
> 
> .....
> 
> The first set of temperature results is nothing short of astounding. *It looks like the Hybrid is able to remain nearly 10°C cooler* than the Sea Hawk throughout the test. Whether or not this is due to the GPU-centric nature of EVGA's cooling unit, the higher RPM fan or a combination of factors is anyone's guess.



Quote:


> The Sea Hawk falls between the Fury X and EVGA Hybrid when it comes to cooling, performing at 40C. The Hybrid's coldplate design is tuned for GPUs (rather than the Sea Hawk's H55 CPU CLC), yielding a tangible, impressive cooling advantage. Despite this, it's very important that we convey just how cool these cards are. *Even with the ~19C gap observed between the two cards*, neither is remotely close to the 61.4C dT equilibrium thermals of the reference 980 Ti. The Hybrid vs. Sea Hawk cooling differential will not reasonably impact product endurance, but it can - and will - impact thermals of neighboring components. Still, for the average user, both cards perform exceptionally well. It is undeniable that the Hybrid's performance is unrivaled at this time.




I can't find a spec sheet for the 740LC, but here's the 740GN.
The Asetek 550LC (the MSI Sea Hawk / Corsair H55)
The Asetek 740GN (presumably the EVGA Hybrid)

Has anybody compared EVGA's hybrid AIO to a CPU AIO? The data above is from Hardware Canucks and Gamers Nexus, if it means anything.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> I haven't posted in a few weeks, but I'm trying to figure out how to drop a few degrees...
> 
> Just a few pre requisites to the situation and build.
> 
> GTX 980 TI
> Corsair H90 with Stock fan (MAX speed)
> Exhaust out back, fan is in pull position.
> 
> During stress.. I creep at 59C. Room itself is around 24C (75F) unfortunately. In the winter it will be a lot cooler, but it's not winter yet.. heh
> 
> Does anyone think a set of the new Corsair ML140's in push pull will at least drop this by a few degrees? Like i said, right now I'm using the stock H90 fan in a pull scenario as exhaust.


60C is towards the top, but if it makes you feel any better, I was getting the same peak temp with my 980Ti w/ H55 and also with a completely separate EVGA 980Ti Hybrid. I think some of these cards are just more hot blooded than others.

The other day I had just installed the H55 on my 1080 and was hitting 57C at first, but a day later, it started getting right back up to around 60C. I think my 1080 is a bit hotter running too and paired with the room temp around 28C, it reaches the same temps. So I decided to do what someone else did on this thread and installed my 6700K's H105. Now it barely reaches 50C in The Witcher.

A side note, I installed the H55 on my 6700K and fully expected I'd have to lower my clock speed. I was very pleased to see I'd only gained about 5C.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> 60C is towards the top, but if it makes you feel any better, I was getting the same peak temp with my 980Ti w/ H55 and also with a completely separate EVGA 980Ti Hybrid. I think some of these cards are just more hot blooded than others.
> 
> I had just installed the H55 on my 1080 and was hitting 57C at first, but a day later, it started getting right back up to around 60C. I think my 1080 is a bit hotter running and paired with the room temp around 28C, it reaches the same temps. So I decided to do what someone else did on this thread and installed my 6700K's H105. Now it barely reaches 50C in The Witcher.
> 
> A side note, I installed the H55 on my 6700K and fully expected I'd have to lower my clock speed. I was very pleased to see I'd only gained about 5C.


Oh, really? Well, that's the exact opposite result the review sites got; the Hybrid should've cruised on by that H55. Hmm...maybe MSI messed up mounting on their Sea Hawks, but you were able to secure yours on better?

See, that's also weird. Why would a 180W TDP card show nearly identical temperatures as a 250W TDP card? I mean, ambient temperatures, fan speed, and a load of other variables here, too, but that is eerily close for a 40% increase in TDP.

And, then a 10C difference going from a 120mm to a 240mm. That's sizeable and more than I anticipated. So...maybe the radiator is also a thermal bottleneck here (at least on the Gen4 Asetek's you're using).

Man...we are certainly in the wild west of GPUs on AIOs, at least in terms of testing. We need *one* review site to grab all the AIOs they have and to run some tests on a GTX 980 Ti they have laying around, hahaha.


----------



## Kold

Yeah, I was pretty disappointed. I wouldn't care as much if the 1080 didn't down clock itself out of fear every 5-10C.


----------



## escalibur

Has anyone tested Kraken G10 on MSI 1080 Gaming?

I'm wondering could this middle plate be left on because VRM cooling could be good enough with Kraken's fan.


----------



## escalibur

_Edit: Double post_


----------



## bigblueshock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> 60C is towards the top, but if it makes you feel any better, I was getting the same peak temp with my 980Ti w/ H55 and also with a completely separate EVGA 980Ti Hybrid. I think some of these cards are just more hot blooded than others.
> 
> The other day I had just installed the H55 on my 1080 and was hitting 57C at first, but a day later, it started getting right back up to around 60C. I think my 1080 is a bit hotter running too and paired with the room temp around 28C, it reaches the same temps. So I decided to do what someone else did on this thread and installed my 6700K's H105. Now it barely reaches 50C in The Witcher.
> 
> A side note, I installed the H55 on my 6700K and fully expected I'd have to lower my clock speed. I was very pleased to see I'd only gained about 5C.


Very interesting...

I also have an H105 for my CPU and was thinking about doing that same exact swap, and was also concerned about the CPU temp rising. The only difference is I have a 4930k compared to your 6700k. I think mine is gonna run a bit warmer due to more cores unfortunately.

If you dont mind me asking, what did you have your 980 TI clocked at when you were hitting the upper 50's? Were you above or below 1500 MHz boost?


----------



## partypoison25

Fits fine on bothe the 1070 and 1080 gaming x. No shims needed and both plates can stay on.


----------



## partypoison25

Fits fine on bothe the 1070 and 1080 gaming x. No shims needed and bo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> 60C is towards the top, but if it makes you feel any better, I was getting the same peak temp with my 980Ti w/ H55 and also with a completely separate EVGA 980Ti Hybrid. I think some of these cards are just more hot blooded than others.
> 
> The other day I had just installed the H55 on my 1080 and was hitting 57C at first, but a day later, it started getting right back up to around 60C. I think my 1080 is a bit hotter running too and paired with the room temp around 28C, it reaches the same temps. So I decided to do what someone else did on this thread and installed my 6700K's H105. Now it barely reaches 50C in The Witcher.
> 
> A side note, I installed the H55 on my 6700K and fully expected I'd have to lower my clock speed. I was very pleased to see I'd only gained about 5C.


You should definitely be getting lower temps on the 1080. When i tried mine it was much cooler than the 980ti even with an oc.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Has anyone tested Kraken G10 on MSI 1080 Gaming?
> 
> I'm wondering could this middle plate be left on because VRM cooling could be good enough with Kraken's fan.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/JzR0vSo.jpg


http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/5530#post_25288453

Yep. Fits just fine. If you remove the padding from the G10 backplate you don't even need to remove the MSI backplate. The only thing you have to remove is the heatsink/fan on the GPU. Leave everything else as-is.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> Very interesting...
> 
> I also have an H105 for my CPU and was thinking about doing that same exact swap, and was also concerned about the CPU temp rising. The only difference is I have a 4930k compared to your 6700k. I think mine is gonna run a bit warmer due to more cores unfortunately.
> 
> If you dont mind me asking, what did you have your 980 TI clocked at when you were hitting the upper 50's? Were you above or below 1500 MHz boost?


The H55 handles mine at 1.4v like a champ. Highest I've seen is 72C.

As for the 980Ti Hybrid, I had it at 1502MHz at 1.212v.


----------



## escalibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/5530#post_25288453
> 
> Yep. Fits just fine. If you remove the padding from the G10 backplate you don't even need to remove the MSI backplate. The only thing you have to remove is the heatsink/fan on the GPU. Leave everything else as-is.


Great! Can you see VRAM temps with GPU-Z? This is probably the most tempting combo. Gaming X + Kraken G10 and Corsair H90. VRAM chips' temps are pretty much the only concern. Did you put any shimms on the GPU or did you just slam the cooler on it?


----------



## auraofjason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Great! Can you see VRAM temps with GPU-Z? This is probably the most tempting combo. Gaming X + Kraken G10 and Corsair H90. VRAM chips' temps are pretty much the only concern. Did you put any shimms on the GPU or did you just slam the cooler on it?


You don't need a shim with the gaming x versions. You can't monitor vram/vrm temps on nvidia gpus but it will be very cool with that baseplate.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Great! Can you see VRAM temps with GPU-Z? This is probably the most tempting combo. Gaming X + Kraken G10 and Corsair H90. VRAM chips' temps are pretty much the only concern. Did you put any shimms on the GPU or did you just slam the cooler on it?


No shims.

I had the G10 and X41 on my 770s. All I had to do was remove the heatsink from the 1080, remove the thermal paste and apply my own, and swap over the G10 and X41. It was super easy. Took me less than 10 minutes.

My 1080 never exceeds 48C under full load (Even in my study which can hit 29C ambient due to the Texas sun shining in the window and poor airflow in the room). VRAM and VRM stay cool enough that an 11500mhz memory clock setting is 100% stable. Couldn't be happier.

If you check out the Heaven 4.0 benchmark scores, you'll see that I currently have the 6th fastest single GPU score. Not bad considering I'm being held back by my aging 4790k CPU.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1235557/official-top-30-heaven-benchmark-4-0-scores


----------



## escalibur

Ok thanks for the information guys!









I'm wondering between EVGA FTW and MSI Gaming. EVGA has better warranty policy in terms of removing the heatsink and on the other side MSI has better VRM cooling under the main heatsink. These two models are probably the best ones to go excluding Classified?

I've odered Zotac AMP Extreme from Amazon and there is still no date when will the arrive so I'm considering should I cancel it and go with the one mentioned above?

Zotac though looks quite good for this but it's probably still not good as eg. MSI Gaming:


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Ok thanks for the information guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wondering between EVGA FTW and MSI Gaming. EVGA has better warranty policy in terms of removing the heatsink and on the other side MSI has better VRM cooling under the main heatsink. These two models are probably the best ones to go excluding Classified?
> 
> I've odered Zotac AMP Extreme from Amazon and there is still no date when will the arrive so I'm considering should I cancel it and go with the one mentioned above?
> 
> Zotac though looks quite good for this but it's probably still not good as eg. MSI Gaming:


MSI warranty also covers removing the heatsink. You would have to reinstall it if the card fails, but as long as you don't physically damage the card while removing the heatsink it's covered.

Between the MSI and EVGA I chose the MSI. Aside from the better VRAM and VRAM cooling and not needing a shim, coil whine was a main factor from me. There is none with the MSI card while I hear constant complaints of coil whine from EVGA owners.


----------



## escalibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> MSI warranty also covers removing the heatsink. You would have to reinstall it if the card fails, but as long as you don't physically damage the card while removing the heatsink it's covered.
> 
> Between the MSI and EVGA I chose the MSI. Aside from the better VRAM and VRAM cooling and not needing a shim, coil whine was a main factor from me. There is none with the MSI card while I hear constant complaints of coil whine from EVGA owners.


Is there any official statement regaring the cooler removal besides that one old forum post?


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Is there any official statement regaring the cooler removal besides that one old forum post?


I remove my MSI Laptops CPU & GPU cooler all the time. I've taken my laptop almost completely apart and they accept it.

MSI is not going to deny your RMA because of a warranty sticker. I had to break the very same warranty on my GT60 Dominator in order to work on it.

Warranty still intact.


----------



## escalibur

Ok. Small sticker on the screw is not a big issue anyway because I'm sure it can be removed with possibility to re-use it again if it is needed.

I'm trying to Google 'naked' photos of MSI Hawk X, EVGA Hybrid. Even with 980 Ti models. I'm curious about their VRAM cooling.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Ok. Small sticker on the screw is not a big issue anyway because I'm sure it can be removed with possibility to re-use it again if it is needed.
> 
> I'm trying to Google 'naked' photos of MSI Hawk X, EVGA Hybrid. Even with 980 Ti models. I'm curious about their VRAM cooling.


Now you're thinking. Heat gun that bad boy off and place it on wax paper.

Warranty saved with ANY GPU. Or any other part for that matter.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Is there any official statement regaring the cooler removal besides that one old forum post?


Is this the old forum post?

Check reply #5: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=264508.0

Your best bet to "confirm/deny" is to email MSI directly. Maybe can you share their response....the sticker is slightly ominous, but I've heard fine things about MSI's warranty.


----------



## escalibur

Yes that was the post. I think I could email them out of curiousity.

ps. Does anyone know on what temps MSI Gaming X' memory chips are running with some overclocking? I'm wondering how well would heat spread towards the fan.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Yeah I think I could email them out of curiousity.
> 
> ps. Does anyone know on what temps MSI Gaming X' memory chips are running with some overclocking? I'm wondering how well would heat spread towards the fan.


You'd need someone with one and an IR gun. Likelihood, not much.


----------



## kokobash

Does the kraken g10 have a bracket support for an r9 nano?


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Is there any official statement regaring the cooler removal besides that one old forum post?


From their Global Moderator on MSI's official support forums:
Quote:


> Removing the sticker will not void the warranty unless you do damage to the card while doing any actions with it while it's removed.
> Also if you would have to RMA the card, you need to replace the heatsink, but sticker is just there to warn users that might not know what they're doing.


https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=184834.0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Does anyone know on what temps MSI Gaming X' memory chips are running with some overclocking? I'm wondering how well would heat spread towards the fan.


I don't have specific temp readings, but I can tell you that running at 11500mhz on the memory the heatspreader on the VRAM is only slightly warm to the touch. They're cool, no need to worry about needing additional cooling.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> From their Global Moderator on MSI's official support forums:
> https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=184834.0
> I don't have specific temp readings, but I can tell you that running at 11500mhz on the memory the heatspreader on the VRAM is only slightly warm to the touch. They're cool, no need to worry about needing additional cooling.


So, slightly warm to the touch would mean low ~40s C. After 50C, I think, is where it starts to feel "hot" and 70C is where burns develop in about 6 seconds. Assuming you don't have a raging fever right now, either, haha.

You know, more motherboards should offer thermistor jacks. The ASUS Z170 Sabertooth offers 3 thermistor hookups--great for spot testing, even if not super accurate like an IR thermometer.


----------



## escalibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> You'd need someone with one and an IR gun. Likelihood, not much.


Yeah I know. Need to ask around if someone could borrow me one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> From their Global Moderator on MSI's official support forums:
> https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=184834.0
> I don't have specific temp readings, but I can tell you that running at 11500mhz on the memory the heatspreader on the VRAM is only slightly warm to the touch. They're cool, no need to worry about needing additional cooling.


Yeah I'm aware of that forum post. I will try to contact them out of curiosity.

Have you guys seen GALAX/KFA2 HoF's middle plate?


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Yeah I know. Need to ask around if someone could borrow me one.
> Yeah I'm aware of that forum post. I will try to contact them out of curiosity.
> 
> Have you guys seen GALAX/KFA2 HoF's middle plate?


$15 on amazon bro. I have one. They're so useful.


----------



## escalibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> $15 on amazon bro. I have one. They're so useful.


Yeah there are many options even the actual thermal cameras cost much more than just $15.









I almost forgot that many GALAX/KFA2 cards had coil whine in previous models so ordering one might be bigger risk than just picking MSI Gaming X.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> So, slightly warm to the touch would mean low ~40s C. After 50C, I think, is where it starts to feel "hot" and 70C is where burns develop in about 6 seconds. Assuming you don't have a raging fever right now, either, haha.
> .


I don't even think they are hitting 40C. Probably more like 35-36C. Definitely no where near 50C.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> I don't even think they are hitting 40C. Probably more like 35-36C. Definitely no where near 50C.


OK, nice. That's surprisingly great.


----------



## escalibur

Here is semi naked photo of Zotac 1080 AMP! Edition (non-Extreme) PCB:










http://www.pctekindia.com/Reviews/ZOTAC_GTX_1080_AMP.aspx

VRM cooling is ok even 2-phase memory's VRM is cooled only by the fans. Apart from memory chips the card could be solid choice thanks to Zotac's free 5-year warranty.


----------



## escalibur

Has anyone of you installed G10 on Zotac's custom Pascal card? I'm thinking should I go with (soon to arrive from Amazon) AMP! Extreme instead of MSI Gaming X because AMP! Extreme has much higher TDP and MSI Gaming X is quite silent and cool already.

Basically with proper VRAM cooling it could be "as good as MSI" because AMP!'s VRM is cooled with a small heat sink + fans anyway. Another 'downside' is that I would have to remove AMP!'s backplate too.

Opinions?









1080 AMP! Extreme PCB:


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Has anyone of you installed G10 on Zotac's custom Pascal card? I'm thinking should I go with (soon to arrive from Amazon) AMP! Extreme instead of MSI Gaming X because AMP! Extreme has much higher TDP and MSI Gaming X is quite silent and cool already.
> 
> Basically with proper VRAM cooling it could be "as good as MSI" because AMP!'s VRM is cooled with a small heat sink + fans anyway. Another 'downside' is that I would have to remove AMP!'s backplate too.
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1080 AMP! Extreme PCB:


I see no reasons why it wouldnt be a great fit for that card. Already has the Heatsink on the VRMs.

The only caveat is the metal on the top that bends at a 90 and extends outward. I do not think it will interfere however. Do you have a shot of the rear of the GPU?


----------



## escalibur

I don't have the card yet and that photo was taken from some review. I think MSI is still better after all because with Zotac AMP! Extreme I would have to take off the balckplate then I would neet to put some heatsinks onto VRAM chips etc.. and that is a lot of hassle especially if some of the heatsinks start to fell off after some time (been there done that).


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> I don't have the card yet and that photo was taken from some review. I think MSI is still better after all because with Zotac AMP! Extreme I would have to take off the balckplate then I would neet to put some heatsinks onto VRAM chips etc.. and that is a lot of hassle especially if some of the heatsinks start to fell off after some time (been there done that).


Well my 980s have a metal frame with something similar on it that does not interfere, still there are no guarantees. Probably better safe than sorry.


----------



## escalibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Well my 980s have a metal frame with something similar on it that does not interfere, still there are no guarantees. Probably better safe than sorry.


Yeah.

I just found someone's 980 Ti AMP Extreme! (pretty much the same size physically) with Kraken G10: http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/5200_50#post_24953889

MSI Gaming X looks definitely like a more safer choice. Eg. Zotac AMP! Extreme's VRAM VRM is cooled by main heatsink and if it is removed something should be applied onto it. I wouldn't cool it with only a 92mm fan with pretty low RPMs.


----------



## HavocInferno

So, got myself a G10 + Kraken X61 for my EVGA 980Ti too.

Results, well...alright I suppose.

Used the shim method with a 25x25x1.5mm piece. VRMs cooled by a few small aluminum heatsinks, frontplate and a 92mm beQuiet Silent Wings 2.

With ambient temp of 27-30C (yes), some approx 250W GPU draw (1430mhz core, 1850 mem, 1.13v) and the whole thing mounted in a Corsair 600C as bottom exhaust, I get some 57C GPU, 49C liquid at 76-84% fan speed. 60C GPU, 51 liquid at 67% fan.

That being said, the CPU cooler is right above half of one NZXT fan, so I'm adding in a few watts from my i5 4670.

Not sure if that's in line with what can be expected? Expected a little better to be honest, even with my ambient. I have B14-PS eLoops coming in next week, these should be quieter than the NZXT fans even at 100% PWM. Will see whether they also provide as much cooling as the NZXTs do at 70%. Also might try tightening the screws on the pump a little more. I noticed the G10's metal is really soft and bends hella easy...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HavocInferno*
> 
> So, got myself a G10 + Kraken X61 for my EVGA 980Ti too.
> 
> Results, well...alright I suppose.
> 
> Used the shim method with a 25x25x1.5mm piece. VRMs cooled by a few small aluminum heatsinks, frontplate and a 92mm beQuiet Silent Wings 2.
> 
> With ambient temp of 27-30C (yes), some approx 250W GPU draw (1430mhz core, 1850 mem, 1.13v) and the whole thing mounted in a Corsair 600C as bottom exhaust, I get some 57C GPU, 49C liquid at 76-84% fan speed. 60C GPU, 51 liquid at 67% fan.
> 
> That being said, the CPU cooler is right above half of one NZXT fan, so I'm adding in a few watts from my i5 4670.
> 
> Not sure if that's in line with what can be expected? Expected a little better to be honest, even with my ambient. I have B14-PS eLoops coming in next week, these should be quieter than the NZXT fans even at 100% PWM. Will see whether they also provide as much cooling as the NZXTs do at 70%. Also might try tightening the screws on the pump a little more. I noticed the G10's metal is really soft and bends hella easy...


Actual gaming and normal use temps should be low 50s. that said 57C is not a bad temp but do clear up whether that is max temps such as while benching or what please. Also, do you have the fan on the GPU radiator set to exhaust from the case?


----------



## HavocInferno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Actual gaming and normal use temps should be low 50s. that said 57C is not a bad temp but do clear up whether that is max temps such as while benching or what please. Also, do you have the fan on the GPU radiator set to exhaust from the case?


The temps I listed are in actual gaming. Bench temps in 3DMark and the like are mostly the same though.

Both NZXT fans on the radiator are set as push and exhaust.

Do keep in mind my Ambient gets up to 30C when gaming. So with a "normal" room with some 25C ambient, I might be at like 52 with the same fan speeds etc.

The air temperature inside the case above the rad is usually some 32C while gaming.

ED: that being said, there is a chance my chip is just a hot one. the stock ACX cooler at stock bios was loud as hell, and even with a Morpheus + 120mm eLoops at 1200rpm I couldnt get it below 75C during gaming load (while Ive seen other 980Tis do mid 60s with that cooler and similar power draw)


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HavocInferno*
> 
> So, got myself a G10 + Kraken X61 for my EVGA 980Ti too.
> 
> Results, well...alright I suppose.
> 
> Used the shim method with a 25x25x1.5mm piece. VRMs cooled by a few small aluminum heatsinks, frontplate and a 92mm beQuiet Silent Wings 2.


What is the cooler hitting if you're not using the shim?

You should only use a shim if the waterblock is hitting something before seating on the GPU. If the waterblock can seat flat on the GPU then you should not use a shim. Shims reduce the cooling efficiency of the waterblock.

If you can get rid of the shim and have the waterblock seat flat on the GPU another thing that you may want to do is lap the waterblock. Use really fine sandpaper (starting with 400-600 grit and working to 2000 grit) and sand the waterblock down to a polished shine.



Lapping eliminates any mill marks and other grooves and ridges on a heatsink or waterblock, allowing more of the metal to be in direct contact with the processor and increasing cooling efficiency. You can drop temps by 3-7C by lapping the cooler.

http://www.overclockersclub.com/guides/lapping/


----------



## HavocInferno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> What is the cooler hitting if you're not using the shim?
> 
> You should only use a shim if the waterblock is hitting something before seating on the GPU. If the waterblock can seat flat on the GPU then you should not use a shim. Shims reduce the cooling efficiency of the waterblock.


Well since I am using the EVGA Frontplate, I cant do without a shim. I ordered 1.2mm and 1.5mm. The 1.2mm leads to the Coldplate sitting flush with the frontplate, not applying full pressure to the GPU+shim. Only the 1.5mm shim then provided enough clearance. So yeah, cant without the shim, unless I get rid of the frontplate, which I dont want to.

Lapping...eh, dont wanna try that just yet. First I'll see what difference the eLoops make and the slightly tighter screws. If that can keep the temps while remaining more quiet, I'm content for the time being.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HavocInferno*
> 
> Well since I am using the EVGA Frontplate, I cant do without a shim. I ordered 1.2mm and 1.5mm. The 1.2mm leads to the Coldplate sitting flush with the frontplate, not applying full pressure to the GPU+shim. Only the 1.5mm shim then provided enough clearance. So yeah, cant without the shim, unless I get rid of the frontplate, which I dont want to.
> 
> Lapping...eh, dont wanna try that just yet. First I'll see what difference the eLoops make and the slightly tighter screws. If that can keep the temps while remaining more quiet, I'm content for the time being.


I wouldnt mess with the midplate either, fact is 57C is cool enough to get maximum performance with that GPU.


----------



## Exilon

Does the G10 bracket fit the Corsair H115i and the other Asetek CLCs with that corsair shroud? Even if it fits, I guess the hose might be a problem.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Does the G10 bracket fit the Corsair H115i and the other Asetek CLCs with that corsair shroud? Even if it fits, I guess the hose might be a problem.


I do not believe the H115 is compatible.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Does the G10 bracket fit the Corsair H115i and the other Asetek CLCs with that corsair shroud? Even if it fits, I guess the hose might be a problem.


Not compatible. Classic square peg in a round hole problem. The mounting hole for the AIO pump is round. Square pumps do not fit.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> Not compatible. Classic square peg in a round hole problem. The mounting hole for the AIO pump is round. Square pumps do not fit.


Look under the square cover, it does appear to be an asetek design, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h115i-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler look at 3rd pic down.but I wouldnt buy it unless they verify it is compatible. I dont know how integrated that cover is etc.


----------



## RaptorMaster

Hey guys,

after i installed the Kraken g10 on my Gainward GTX 1080 Phoenix GLH the GPU is dead!

First time, everythink works fine... after one hour Heaven Benchmark the PC shut down.

Then i restart my PC and there is no signal at the monitor, only black screen!!!

Its the same now with the original Heatsink, the screen doas not go on...

So i think i have to RMA the card...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaptorMaster*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> after i installed the Kraken g10 on my Gainward GTX 1080 Phoenix GLH the GPU is dead!
> 
> First time, everythink works fine... after one hour Heaven Benchmark the PC shut down.
> 
> Then i restart my PC and there is no signal at the monitor, only black screen!!!
> 
> Its the same now with the original Heatsink, the screen doas not go on...
> 
> So i think i have to RMA the card...


Most likely it is just a defective GPU but were you watching temps during the benchmark? Have you verified you are getting signal from onboard video or another gpu?


----------



## escalibur

After over a month of waiting and looking for interesting models to be in stock I've decided to grab EVGA 1080 FTW. It should be ok for Kraken G10 because the VRM is cooled by middle plate and the fans anyway so that shouldn't be a problem for Kraken G10 and Noctua fan.

https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/4q3iwv/watercooled_my_gtx_1080_using_a_kraken_g10_and/

I think with EVGA I need shim?










980 Ti is physically very close to this 1080 FTW model:


----------



## Kold

I installed the g10 on my FTW and yes, you do need a shim.


----------



## escalibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> I installed the g10 on my FTW and yes, you do need a shim.


What size did you use? Obviously 20mm X 20mm with 1.2mm thickness should be ok?


----------



## Kold

That's the exact size I used. When you install it, it might feel like the 1.2mm was enough, but it is. So don't worry. I first thought it didn't make contact, but after starting it up, it was staying under 50C in all but the most taxing of games. (Witcher 3, Division)


----------



## escalibur

Ok thanks for the info. I need to buy it.


----------



## Kold

M
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Ok thanks for the info. I need to buy it.


Yw!

So I returned my FTW to Newegg for store credit. I realized the extra height of the card would cause issues with my planned loop. Anyways, I got my store credit of $679.99 and the only thing in stock was the PNY branded FE 1080 for $699. I pulled the trigger.

Anyone have opinions on PNY from a warranty standpoint? I've never dealt with them before.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> That's the exact size I used. When you install it, it might feel like the 1.2mm was enough, but it is. So don't worry. I first thought it didn't make contact, but after starting it up, it was staying under 50C in all but the most taxing of games. (Witcher 3, Division)


Ugh.... this means the 20mm×20mm×1.0mm shims I bought won't work.

Dammit. Sometimes, I hate being in Canada. I want these things now. Not 3 weeks from now.

Oh well... have the 20mm×20mm×1.2mm shims on the way. Hopefully they don't take too long.


----------



## escalibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> M
> Yw!
> 
> So I returned my FTW to Newegg for store credit. I realized the extra height of the card would cause issues with my planned loop. Anyways, I got my store credit of $679.99 and the only thing in stock was the PNY branded FE 1080 for $699. I pulled the trigger.
> 
> Anyone have opinions on PNY from a warranty standpoint? I've never dealt with them before.


PNY has only 2 years of warranty and nowdays it is owned by Palit/Gainward if I can remember correctly. Warranty will be voided if you remove the cooler as far as I know.


----------



## GaryG

I just installed the G10 onto a Gigabyte G1 GTX 970 and after adding a aftermarket heat sink on the vrm's using the heat pad from the original heat sink and adding an aftermarket heat sink my GTX 970 idles at 23c and at around 91F outside it is at 25c. This upgrade works fantastic and with everything maxed I don't even worry about temps. One note, the original long screws and thumb screws are marginal at best, I opted for some longer screws and nuts with lock washers (local hardware store), I am using the G10 with an H55 corsair cooler.


----------



## Mister300

How to you know if the AIO cold plate screws are tight enough? Mine are finger tight and I am concerned about cracking the die on a 390X?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mister300*
> 
> How to you know if the AIO cold plate screws are tight enough? Mine are finger tight and I am concerned about cracking the die on a 390X?


I tighten in the x pattern in 1/4 to 1/2 turn increments until it doesnt slide back and forth across the die and stop. Its always worked for me anyway and leaves a good contact pattern after it sets.. Im sure everyone has their little rituals. LOL


----------



## madmeatballs

Do you guys think I'd have to put heatsinks on this part I encircled? It had thermal pads on it on the stock cooler.
(Photo from http://www.hardwarebbq.com/zotac-gtx-1070-amp-extreme-edition-gpu-review/2/#jp-carousel-30370)


----------



## GaryG

If the thermal pad helped to connect to the overall heat sink, then maybe, probably is going to need some more research after the 1070 has been out longer. You might want to wait till fall. when in doubt though, put a heat sink there. the giveaway is the thermal pad, it was there for a reason. Also be careful of encroaching on the pump.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> 
> Do you guys think I'd have to put heatsinks on this part I encircled? It had thermal pads on it on the stock cooler.
> (Photo from http://www.hardwarebbq.com/zotac-gtx-1070-amp-extreme-edition-gpu-review/2/#jp-carousel-30370)


Thats probably for the memory. I wouldnt worry about that right now if you arent going to be trying to push the memory hard. Fan really should be adequate.


----------



## escalibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> 
> Do you guys think I'd have to put heatsinks on this part I encircled? It had thermal pads on it on the stock cooler.
> (Photo from http://www.hardwarebbq.com/zotac-gtx-1070-amp-extreme-edition-gpu-review/2/#jp-carousel-30370)


I would put some heat sink(s) on it. Fan can be enough if you keep your VRAM on stock and if the fan can produce enough pressure to push the heat off the mosfets.


----------



## Badexample

I received my Titan X Pascal Yesterday. I will try to install the KraKen G10 on it tomorrow.







The card stock is a beast wow!


----------



## anteh

So, yesterday i decied to put togheter my Kraken G10/H55 with my EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti SC GAMING ACX 2.0+.

Power target is 110%, +110Mhz to the gpu clock and +300Mhz on memory clock.

PrecisionX says 1451Mhz Gpu clock and 3800Mhz Memory clock when benchmarking.

I used a 25x25x16mm copper shim and Arctic Silver 5 paste.
Everything was wiped clean before joining all the parts togheter. And there was not much problem putting the items togheter.

I have a Fractal Design Define 5 case with a H100 240mm radiator in the front for the cpu as an intake with Noctua nf-f12 fans (700-900rpm) in push mode.

The H55 radiator sits in the back as exhaust in pull mode with one Noctua nf-f12 fan. Full power to the radiator via fan connect on MB, fan is spinning at 1200rpm.

To the problem, the card is idle at 29-31c and max load Firestrike is 69c and about 71c(!) in Heaven benchmark.

I have disassembled and reassembled the parts twice, opened the whole sidepanel and front door without any noticeable difference in degrees.
The case is otherwise dead silence wich is an improvement from stock fans on gpu but it seems abit hot.

Anyone have any tips? Should i put the 240 radiator at top and put 2xNoctua NF-P14S Redux 1500 PWM fans in the front instead?
Or go push/pull on the H55? Maybe put the H55 in the bottom?

Any advice would be great.

Best regards


----------



## auraofjason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteh*
> 
> Anyone have any tips? Should i put the 240 radiator at top and put 2xNoctua NF-P14S Redux 1500 PWM fans in the front instead?
> Or go push/pull on the H55? Maybe put the H55 in the bottom?
> 
> Any advice would be great.
> 
> Best regards


I think the h55 just is not good enough. I think it's the coldplate's fault. My h55 on my gtx 1080 hit 62-65c (at 2126mhz), and that's a 180w gpu compared to your 250w. For my new titan x I went with an evga hybrid kit instead, and it hits 59c (2025mhz). So lower temps compared to the h55 while being a pretty large amount hotter (250w). Both ran with the same nf-f12 on the rad as well.

EDIT: Actually now that I think about it, it may be your copper shim's fault rather than the h55 I'm not sure. My temps are probably higher than everyone else's due to the amount of heat my nh-d14 is blowing literally right into the rad.


----------



## anteh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *auraofjason*
> 
> I think the h55 just is not good enough. I think it's the coldplate's fault. My h55 on my gtx 1080 hit 62-65c (at 2126mhz), and that's a 180w gpu compared to your 250w. For my new titan x I went with an evga hybrid kit instead, and it hits 59c (2025mhz). So lower temps compared to the h55 while being a pretty large amount hotter (250w). Both ran with the same nf-f12 on the rad as well.
> 
> EDIT: Actually now that I think about it, it may be your copper shim's fault rather than the h55 I'm not sure. My temps are probably higher than everyone else's due to the amount of heat my nh-d14 is blowing literally right into the rad.


Well i have tested two different copper shims. Same result im afraid :/

Now I moved the H55 to the bottom exhausting w/pull, put 2x140 Noctua fans as intake in the front and the 240 radiator up top as exhaust w/pull. And one 140 fan at the back to finish it off.

Still hitting 70c on Heaven benchmark and about 66c in Firestrike.

The radiator also has a small electric noise, like when a lampsocket is about to go.

Should i really try to reassemble the kraken and the gfx once more or call it a day?

Edit: Just hit 75c in a game on Overwatch.

Edit2: After a new reassemble and going push/pull (full speed) on H55 placement in the back. And 2x 140 Noctua in the front Firestrike and Heaven is now down to 62-63c.
Still thinking about returning the H55 and go H110 instead.


----------



## HunterVee

Got a new G10 and an X61 is coming tobe its companion!

Got a question about removal of tabs on EVGA 980ti midplate.
How easy are they to cut? or better asked from which material is the midplate?

The copper shim idea (25x25x2mm) ain't working too great, tried remounting a few times, temps reach 74c under full load after an our using an older X31 i had laying around.
I have an NZXT Manta case, and maybe one of the issues for my heat is that i have an X61 on front intake for CPU, so perhaps another X61 on top exhaust will handle heat dissipation better for hotter air.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Bloodymight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badexample*
> 
> I received my Titan X Pascal Yesterday. I will try to install the KraKen G10 on it tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The card stock is a beast wow!


Please keep us updated!


----------



## anteh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HunterVee*
> 
> Got a new G10 and an X61 is coming tobe its companion!
> 
> Got a question about removal of tabs on EVGA 980ti midplate.
> How easy are they to cut? or better asked from which material is the midplate?
> 
> The copper shim idea (25x25x2mm) ain't working too great, tried remounting a few times, temps reach 74c under full load after an our using an older X31 i had laying around.
> I have an NZXT Manta case, and maybe one of the issues for my heat is that i have an X61 on front intake for CPU, so perhaps another X61 on top exhaust will handle heat dissipation better for hotter air.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Im thinking of cutting those midplate tabs aswell, cant be that hard with a multitool.


----------



## HunterVee

Well main question is from which material it is made, i mean, if its Aluminium, then a simple cutting motor at 5-6k rpm would do, if its harder though...


----------



## Helgaiden

Hi all. Im looking at ordering one these Kraken G10s with an H55 (and misc heatsinks for ram and VRM) to use with my EVGA 970 FTW+. From what i understand, the FTW+ not being a reference style PCB has some of the chips moved around to where the fan on the kraken doesn't really directly cool it, thus the need for the heatsinks on the other components. Does anyone have any info or feedback on this use scenario? Shimming necessary? Anyone already been there done that with a FTW+ 970? I would have maybe considered a swiftech prestige h220 x2 + GPU waterblock if there were any available for the 970, but it doesn't really look that its feasible. Will likely do a standalone 240mm AIO for the cpu. Thanks in advance.


----------



## anteh

Anyone seen any difference between the H55 and the H90 on a 980ti or similar?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteh*
> 
> Anyone seen any difference between the H55 and the H90 on a 980ti or similar?


2 or 3C MAX


----------



## escalibur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> 2 or 3C MAX


Any actual proof for this?


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Any actual proof for this?


No need... at all... they're both 120mm Rads.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escalibur*
> 
> Any actual proof for this?


No this is just from my personal experiences.


----------



## anteh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> No need... at all... they're both 120mm Rads.


It says 140mm radiator on Corsair website though. But il guess im gonna go for the H110 instead if its just 2-3c max H55/H90.
Too bad i have to sacrifice the silence and open up the top on my Fractal Design Define 5.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteh*
> 
> It says 140mm radiator on Corsair website though. But il guess im gonna go for the H110 instead if its just 2-3c max H55/H90.
> Too bad i have to sacrifice the silence and open up the top on my Fractal Design Define 5.


AIOs arent known for their silence. So the cooler you want it the more noise its going to make as a general rule of thumb. Even with high end fans it will still make some noise.Now im not putting them down, obviously i use em but it is a trade off. i use a fan controller to balance it all out and get the best performance vs sound on my H110 CPU cooler and both my H90 GPU coolers.


----------



## anteh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> AIOs arent known for their silence. So the cooler you want it the more noise its going to make as a general rule of thumb. Even with high end fans it will still make some noise.Now im not putting them down, obviously i use em but it is a trade off. i use a fan controller to balance it all out and get the best performance vs sound on my H110 CPU cooler and both my H90 GPU coolers.


Yeah I dont know if I should skip the H110 and stay with the H55 or go H90 to avoid opening up the top on Define 5.
Its almost dead silence now, thou my temps are about 62-66c.


----------



## Badexample

I swapped the Kraken G10 from my old Titan X Maxwell to the new Pascal. No issues whatsoever. Both are basically identical. Lowered temp about the same as Maxwell. I also reused the EVGA backplate that I had because the OEM is useless for the Kraken. Solid, cooling system.: thumb:


----------



## Badexample

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> No need... at all... they're both 120mm Rads.


WTH?? Misinformation at it's best! I rock a H90 with x2 140mm fan with the Kraken G10.. If your space is limited, it is the best radiator to buy for the cooling kit. Add 2 quality/performance fans.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badexample*
> 
> WTH?? Misinformation at is best! I rock a H90 with x2 140mm fan with the Kraken G10..


Ohhh h90 is 140mm?

My bad.

Not at its best.... I can do better.


----------



## Badexample

Your
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexxusty*
> 
> Ohhh h90 is 140mm?
> 
> My bad.
> 
> Not at its best.... I can do better.


LOL your avatar fit you well!







Goofy!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteh*
> 
> Yeah I dont know if I should skip the H110 and stay with the H55 or go H90 to avoid opening up the top on Define 5.
> Its almost dead silence now, thou my temps are about 62-66c.


I would skip the H110 personally, I get great numbers on OC'd 980s in SLI. I realize that the TI will make a bit more but not that much. wouldnt be worth stepping up to a 110 IMho.


----------



## Exilon

280mm radiator is overkill from a thermal performance perspective. There's not enough flow rate from the dinky Asetek CLC pumps to effectively utilize a 280mm radiator's cooling potential.

You could use slower fans for better noise profile, but the high fin density radiators means that cooling capability drops off steeply with lower RPM.


----------



## Bloodymight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badexample*
> 
> I swapped the Kraken G10 from my old Titan X Maxwell to the new Pascal. No issues whatsoever. Both are basically identical. Lowered temp about the same as Maxwell. I also reused the EVGA backplate that I had because the OEM is useless for the Kraken. Solid, cooling system.: thumb:


Did you try to OC? what are your temps?

and did you use little heatsinks for the memory/VRM?

sorry for so many question but I'm planning on buying the titan with an AIO cooler


----------



## Badexample

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloodymight*
> 
> Did you try to OC? what are your temps?
> 
> and did you use little heatsinks for the memory/VRM?
> 
> sorry for so many question but I'm planning on buying the titan with an AIO cooler


I can't get the temp to go over 46 degrees under load with 3DMark and Heaven Benchmark. Idling around 25 degrees. I am using the Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste and will also add some Enzotec copper heatsink. No overclocking yet. Just had no time to play much with it. Will soon but planning to flash the bios and extract the max of the card. The Kraken is attached to a H90 with 2 Phantek fans. I used Artic cooler thermal pad between the EVGA backplate and the card where the memory is and the VRM. The card can do well without a backplate as well but it is 1200 USD$


----------



## vibraslap

So reading back and looking at temps, it looks like my 980ti is running really hot...

73-76C diode temps reported by AIDA64, intake h100i rad(cooling cpu) is 35C, output h75(gpu) rad is 60C under load.

Are my fans just not putting out enough air under load? I see people reporting GPU temps under my radiator temps.


----------



## anteh

So the Nzxt x41 is 20$ more than the Corsair H90.
Is it really worth it?


----------



## madmeatballs

Zotac GTX 1070 AMP Extreme with the G10 fits perfectly with backplate still on! Max temps prior to this was 59-62 C not its just 39-42 C. I used a Kraken X41.



I also noticed the 1070 has a mini 4 pin connector for the fans?? Where can I find an adapter for this mini 4 pin so it'd fit on regular pwn fans?


----------



## HunterVee

http://gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=60

In Europe i found it in QuietPC from UK, easy fast delivery even to a non-UK country.

If in the US im sure you will find it easily enough, even Amazon maybe.


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HunterVee*
> 
> http://gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=60
> 
> In Europe i found it in QuietPC from UK, easy fast delivery even to a non-UK country.
> 
> If in the US im sure you will find it easily enough, even Amazon maybe.


Thanks! I'll check it out if some local retailers have this.


----------



## Helgaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Helgaiden*
> 
> Hi all. Im looking at ordering one these Kraken G10s with an H55 (and misc heatsinks for ram and VRM) to use with my EVGA 970 FTW+. From what i understand, the FTW+ not being a reference style PCB has some of the chips moved around to where the fan on the kraken doesn't really directly cool it, thus the need for the heatsinks on the other components. Does anyone have any info or feedback on this use scenario? Shimming necessary? Anyone already been there done that with a FTW+ 970? I would have maybe considered a swiftech prestige h220 x2 + GPU waterblock if there were any available for the 970, but it doesn't really look that its feasible. Will likely do a standalone 240mm AIO for the cpu. Thanks in advance.


Had the opportunity to order the gear I wanted. H55 with the g10 and misc heatsinks for my evga 970 ftw+, and a deepcool captain 240ex for the cpu, and a deepcool Dukase v2 to house it all. Still looking for any feedback with g10 use on my ftw+ care which is a custom PCB. Can I retain the backplate? What about the mid plate? (If it has one) Thanks

Edit: some research shows that people have kept their backplate and midplate (which I assume I want to keep as well to help keep VRAM and VRMs cool) by trimming the g10's backplate down (or skipping it altogether and using longer screws + washers). Anyone done this here? Would I also need a shim? One video I saw, the guy used a copper shim on the gpu die (780) to keep the midplate but in another video, no shim was used. Though a midplate wasn't used either, but it was a 980ti so at least same chip family as mine....

So many things to think about!


----------



## anteh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Helgaiden*
> 
> Had the opportunity to order the gear I wanted. H55 with the g10 and misc heatsinks for my evga 970 ftw+, and a deepcool captain 240ex for the cpu, and a deepcool Dukase v2 to house it all. Still looking for any feedback with g10 use on my ftw+ care which is a custom PCB. Can I retain the backplate? What about the mid plate? (If it has one) Thanks
> 
> Edit: some research shows that people have kept their backplate and midplate (which I assume I want to keep as well to help keep VRAM and VRMs cool) by trimming the g10's backplate down (or skipping it altogether and using longer screws + washers). Anyone done this here? Would I also need a shim? One video I saw, the guy used a copper shim on the gpu die (780) to keep the midplate but in another video, no shim was used. Though a midplate wasn't used either, but it was a 980ti so at least same chip family as mine....
> 
> So many things to think about!


I have evga gtx 980 ti with midplate. Only bought a shim and some thermal paste and used the screws that came with the Kraken G10.
The Kraken G10's backplate i only removed the pad that was on it . There is a tutorial on youtube combining a Kraken G10 and Evga Gtx 980 ti, maybe that will help.


----------



## Helgaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteh*
> 
> I have evga gtx 980 ti with midplate. Only bought a shim and some thermal paste and used the screws that came with the Kraken G10.
> The Kraken G10's backplate i only removed the pad that was on it . There is a tutorial on youtube combining a Kraken G10 and Evga Gtx 980 ti, maybe that will help.


What size shim did you use? From what I can find, it looks like id need a 25x25x1.5mm copper shim, or would 25x25x1.2mm work? Only crappy part is having to wait on those shims from China. The 1mm shims im seeing aren't tall enough supposedly, so I'd rather be safe.


----------



## anteh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Helgaiden*
> 
> What size shim did you use? From what I can find, it looks like id need a 25x25x1.5mm copper shim, or would 25x25x1.2mm work? Only crappy part is having to wait on those shims from China. The 1mm shims im seeing aren't tall enough supposedly, so I'd rather be safe.


I used a 25x25x16 shim from a guy on ebay.co.uk


----------



## HunterVee

I started with a shim 25x25x2mm i had produced for me (not everyone has that privilege sadly), finding these in europe was a no go, and ordering from ebay stated some 3 weeks delivery.
In the end? ditched the shim, had the midplate cut for me today in my factory.
In the process the Aluminium cast-off from the cutting soiled the original thermal pads, so i removed them, measured, counted, and order Thermal Grizzly Minus Pads 8's to replace.
Also ordered the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut since i read around it beats the MX-4 i have.

In shorts, Front rad X61 is now connected to the 980ti, temps now never break 53c after a couple gaming hours, cpu though, ugh.
So ordered another X61 to replace the X31 i previously had on my 980ti, it will serve as top exhaust.
Also i have a Noctua 92mm fan on the way from the UK since i find the fan that came with the G10 a bit audible (for my taste) in full speed.
Plus new CableMod cables to replace the default ones that came with my EVGA SuperNova G2.
When all of the products arrive ill do the assembly v1.564 since 564 times is about the amount of times i had opened that case and fiddled the config of parts.


----------



## Helgaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteh*
> 
> I used a 25x25x16 shim from a guy on ebay.co.uk


Would a 980/980ti die be the same size or require the same size shim as a 970?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HunterVee*
> 
> I started with a shim 25x25x2mm i had produced for me (not everyone has that privilege sadly), finding these in europe was a no go, and ordering from ebay stated some 3 weeks delivery.
> In the end? ditched the shim, had the midplate cut for me today in my factory.
> In the process the Aluminium cast-off from the cutting soiled the original thermal pads, so i removed them, measured, counted, and order Thermal Grizzly Minus Pads 8's to replace.
> Also ordered the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut since i read around it beats the MX-4 i have.
> 
> In shorts, Front rad X61 is now connected to the 980ti, temps now never break 53c after a couple gaming hours, cpu though, ugh.
> So ordered another X61 to replace the X31 i previously had on my 980ti, it will serve as top exhaust.
> Also i have a Noctua 92mm fan on the way from the UK since i find the fan that came with the G10 a bit audible (for my taste) in full speed.
> Plus new CableMod cables to replace the default ones that came with my EVGA SuperNova G2.
> When all of the products arrive ill do the assembly v1.564 since 564 times is about the amount of times i had opened that case and fiddled the config of parts.


I really would prefer not to cut the midplate...

edit:
so i decided to try to figure out a shim situation. Didnt feel like waiting for china shipping though so i got creative.

Found an old heatsink and measured the thickness of it. 1/16th of an inch comes out to 1.54mm so pretty spot on.







So when i got home, i got to work and drilled out the mounts.



then i managed to pop it off the heatsink it was attached to



though the back will need a little more lapping/polishing



25x25mm square template, ready. Will likely get this cut down to size soon!


----------



## HunterVee

Creative just the way i like it









A word of warning, use a mask, not heavily filtered, one like they use in hospitals is enough. Otherwise, cut within a closed box that is connected to a vaccum cleaner.
In any case try NOT to inhale any of the cast-off/powder that will result from cutting that heatsink. Copper can be more poisinous than other metals for the body... Keep safety first.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badexample*
> 
> Your
> LOL your avatar fit you well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Goofy!


Super Goof!

Lol.


----------



## Corsa911

Well, pretty good results.

Hindsight I should of sprung for the h105 as my temps aren't quite as low as I hoped.

Overclocked to 1545mhz 62C max
Stock at 1440mhz 55C max

I've got a s12 on the rad at the moment, have two p12s in route to setup push/pull. If that doesn't keep me below 60c with overclock then I'm going to get the h105.

Anyone else have any experience going from a 120 to 240 rad with g10 and care to share results?

I'm limited to 240mm rads, is the h105 a good choice or is there a better 240 aio I should look at?


----------



## Helgaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vibraslap*
> 
> This isn't this broadwell-e thread... delete this


----------



## Helgaiden

Progress on the shim. My buddy hit it with a cutoff wheel to get it down to size and got started on sanding it.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Helgaiden*
> 
> Progress on the shim. My buddy hit it with a cutoff wheel to get it down to size and got started on sanding it.


Oh yo!!!

I use Wahl personal grooming products too. They rock.


----------



## HunterVee

Looking good man.
Heads up, replaced my MX-4 on GPU and CPU with Kryonaut, got a 7c (!) drop in temps...
Im scratching my head until now, no way it was a sitting issue for the coolers since i had disassembled them and put back so many times temps were always same.
Interesting stuff...


----------



## rainharder

Hi, anyone knows the exact dimensions of the GDDR5X Memory chips on Gtx1080?
I'm having difficulties choosing the right-sized VRAM heatsinks, as most of the aftermarket ones are designed for GDDR5 which is actually larger than the GDDR5X.
The one I'm currently considering is 14mm*12m*5.5mm, which is slightly larger than the GDDR5X, will that be a problem? There's adhesives on the bottom of the heatsinks so I reckon it won't lead to short circuit? Those tiny components around the memory chips are making me really nervous.

Thanks for the help and please pardon my English.


----------



## vasyltheonly

I had posted here a while back about doing my own CPU block onto a GPU with the G10 as a holder and to cool the VRM better. Here is a album of how I attached a CPU block onto the GPU and how I created a personal midplate for the VRMs on my 980ti Strix since it did not have one. The mod was effective and at load I get 44-48C core and 55C on vrm. The vrm dropped by 15C from just having the G10 fan on it. Overall, the mod only took a few hours. So if your vrms run hotter and you would like to cool them better, here is my take at fixing this issue.

http://imgur.com/a/yRcRG


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> . The vrm dropped by 15C from just having the G10 fan on it. Overall, the mod only took a few hours. So if your vrms run hotter and you would like to cool them better, here is my take at fixing this issue.


What are the differences in performance. Do you have the before and after temperature performance numbers for comparison? How much more of an overclock did you get?


----------



## vasyltheonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> What are the differences in performance. Do you have the before and after temperature performance numbers for comparison? How much more of an overclock did you get?


The vrm temps dropped from 71C on Witcher 3 to 55C now. I will need to confirm this once I'm back in my apartment since I am in my parents basement for now. I didn't gain much of a higher OC because my card is voltage locked, however I can now finish firestrike at 26mhz higher than before. Which again can be attributed to a lower overall core in the basement. I mostly did it because even a few degree change in temperature puts my mind at ease and a way to show that you can.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> The vrm temps dropped from 71C on Witcher 3 to 55C now. I will need to confirm this once I'm back in my apartment since I am in my parents basement for now. I didn't gain much of a higher OC because my card is voltage locked, however I can now finish firestrike at 26mhz higher than before. Which again can be attributed to a lower overall core in the basement. I mostly did it because even a few degree change in temperature puts my mind at ease and a way to show that you can.


Not questioning your motives, I knew there would be no significant increase in performance. Still wanted to know the results. It will undoubtedly increase the life of the components and make cooling the rest of the system that much easier.


----------



## vasyltheonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Not questioning your motives, I knew there would be no significant increase in performance. Still wanted to know the results. It will undoubtedly increase the life of the components and make cooling the rest of the system that much easier.


I wish my card could go past 1.212 so I really could test the true benefit of doing this mod. Unless I want to go the pencil route and change resistance I don't I can do anything about it







.


----------



## nexxusty

This is what... IMO the Kraken G10 should look like.

It's so ugly it's not even funny... IMO. Now I don't have to see any NZXT logos. Taking care of the backplate too.

Some Dremel action and 20 mins on a grinder and we have just the mounting bracket. Couple this with a shim (I have a 1080 FE, requires a shim) and this is what the G10 should have been. If NZXT shipped just the mount bracket, multiple shims and screws it would fit any GPU with stock VRM cooling.

Just some thoughts.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> I wish my card could go past 1.212 so I really could test the true benefit of doing this mod. Unless I want to go the pencil route and change resistance I don't I can do anything about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Do you have custom watercooling, full cover waterblock and a redundant amount of rad space?

Thought not.

1.212v won't give you anything but throttling unless your GPU die is at ambient temp (30c loaded) or less.

So let that dream die.









*edit*

Pencil? That's so 2006.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> I wish my card could go past 1.212 so I really could test the true benefit of doing this mod. Unless I want to go the pencil route and change resistance I don't I can do anything about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Id be with you on Kepler and earlier versions. But these newer gpus are so efficient your not going to see any big difference going higher than what you can already achieve at the 1.212 with water cooling.


----------



## maynard14

hi planning to put nzxt g10 with id cooling 120 mm radiator.. but im a bit concern about the vrm on the 980ti g1 windforce..i found this old 290x vrm heatsink kit..and i think it fits nicely on my 980 ti g1



and its ok to leave the vram without heatsinks of i put nzxt g10 ?


----------



## Gladi

hey dont know if it has been asked anyone tried to see if it fits on the RX 480 reference pcb?


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Does anyone know if the G10 fits on an RX 480 reference?


----------



## Mister300

Nice dremel mod on the g10 AIO plate, but I would still need a fan to cool the vrms on my XFX 390X though. The stock vrm heat sink is good but not enough.


----------



## Ultisym

Ive never had a problem with the VRM heat sinks on the STRIX GPU. Even though i always thought they were a little small for the task. The NZXT fan blowing on them has always been sufficient. A lot of the time, the issue with GPUs with high temps on the VRMs involves poor airflow in general within the case. Of course certain AMD VRMs are hot no matter what.


----------



## maynard14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ive never had a problem with the VRM heat sinks on the STRIX GPU. Even though i always thought they were a little small for the task. The NZXT fan blowing on them has always been sufficient. A lot of the time, the issue with GPUs with high temps on the VRMs involves poor airflow in general within the case. Of course certain AMD VRMs are hot no matter what.


i see, i have nzxt s340 case and nzxt x61 mounted on the front



my temps goes sky high while playing gpu intensive games like gta v, witcher 3

i want to lower my temps

my load temps at max peak is 81c


----------



## Mister300

Move rad to top if possible.
I have the 440 NZXT and my X61 kraken and 5820K OCed to 4.3 never exceeds 70 C.
If I pull off the front panel GPU drops 15 C in temps.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maynard14*
> 
> i see, i have nzxt s340 case and nzxt x61 mounted on the front
> 
> 
> 
> my temps goes sky high while playing gpu intensive games like gta v, witcher 3
> 
> i want to lower my temps
> 
> my load temps at max peak is 81c


So you havnt installed the G-10 yet?


----------



## vibraslap

I think he was referring to his GPU temps?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vibraslap*
> 
> I think he was referring to his GPU temps?


Thats what im trying to determine. Im having an issue with my eyes right now where everything is blending together, so i dont get all the lines of text every time I read something.


----------



## Manac0r

Hi, just a question for the gang. I have a Titan X with the ACX 2.0 cooler.

I have just ordered a G10 and X61 for my Manta ITX case.

Will I be able to keep my ACX backplate to help cool the VRM?

Is it better the place the radiator at the fron or top of the case?

I heard removing the foam from the G10 backplate will help?

Any advice much appreciated...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manac0r*
> 
> Hi, just a question for the gang. I have a Titan X with the ACX 2.0 cooler.
> 
> I have just ordered a G10 and X61 for my Manta ITX case.
> 
> Will I be able to keep my ACX backplate to help cool the VRM?
> 
> Is it better the place the radiator at the fron or top of the case?
> 
> I heard removing the foam from the G10 backplate will help?
> 
> Any advice much appreciated...


Should have no problem keeping the backplate. You can remove the foam from the nxzt backplate or since you have a backplate, skip it all together. use a washer if the screw heads look like they have the potential to pull through. As for the radiator, it really doesnt matter where you mount as long as the flow through the case is good enough to exhaust the heat of the GPU. I highly recommend setting it up to exhaust from the case vs intake.


----------



## Manac0r

So if I remove the fans I can keep the front and back plate (which I assume is need to thread into) and install the G10 over this without the need of a copper plate? As seen in a YouTube video? Oh and +rep for speedy response!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manac0r*
> 
> So if I remove the fans I can keep the front and back plate (which I assume is need to thread into) and install the G10 over this without the need of a copper plate? As seen in a YouTube video? Oh and +rep for speedy response!


Yes you remove the ACX 2 cooler. You may need a shim with the midplate installed if the die sits lower than the midplate. I have not installed one on a titan Xso i can not answer 100% on that. As they are cheap, I would have them on hand when you do the install to be on the safe side. Also, im assuming you have verified compatibility of the titan x with the G-10 on their page. The bolts go through the back of the card through the G-10 and there are nuts on the other side of the G-10 that you screw onto the bolt that presses the cooler to the die.


----------



## Manac0r

Any idea what size Shim I need 1mm or 0.8mm?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manac0r*
> 
> Any idea what size Shim I need 1mm or 0.8mm?


Im afraid I do not. as mentioned though, they are cheap so I would have them on hand regardless. Other option is to sift through all the pages in this thread. Someone has likely installed one in this thread somewhere and the answer on shim size would likely be there.


----------



## Manac0r

Looks like 1mm were needed.. Just ordered on prime..Good looking out!


----------



## vibraslap

Guys I found this One Neat Trick to lowering your GPU temps 20C!

Don't put your fans in push/push mode!









Turns out I'm a little ******ed and in all the hassle of installing the radiator and two fans in my case, I accidentally flipped one of the fans around. For like a month I'd been wondering why my GPU temps were so **** at load (76C) with the G10. Hell it was 85+ stock, so I wasn't terribly concerned... But now that I'm down to a comfortable 55C max on sustained load, I'm feeling pretty happy.

Thought I'd share my idiocy and hopefully brighten someones day.


----------



## enfluence

Just bought a g10 and a kraken x41 for my Titan pascal. I've bought some chipsinks for the vrm

Is there anything else I need ?


----------



## nexxusty

Quick update on my DIY Hybrid (No shim, cut FE midplate).

Loads at 42c MAX usually 40c with an H90 in Push/Pull and pasted with Kryonaut. Idles at 27-28c, went from 2037mhz throttled to 2100mhz fully stable @ 1.0310v.

Removed the power limit too via the shunt resistor mod. It's kind of funny to see the TDP % never go above 24%. It's usually around 9%, heh.

All in all, card looks good and performs better. Quiet too.


----------



## DanielDEV

*Will G10 fit RX 480?*


----------



## vasyltheonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ive never had a problem with the VRM heat sinks on the STRIX GPU. Even though i always thought they were a little small for the task. The NZXT fan blowing on them has always been sufficient. A lot of the time, the issue with GPUs with high temps on the VRMs involves poor airflow in general within the case. Of course certain AMD VRMs are hot no matter what.


If you can explain why Asus decided to not include a midplate on their 980ti strix I will buy you an internet cookie. Overall I think the triple fan design was almost like a beta on the 980ti before they got it right on the 1080.


----------



## nexxusty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> If you can explain why Asus decided to not include a midplate on their 980ti strix I will buy you an internet cookie. Overall I think the triple fan design was almost like a beta on the 980ti before they got it right on the 1080.


Cheaper. Simple.

Their ROG Matrix is the top of the line 980ti. I'd bet it includes a midplate.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> If you can explain why Asus decided to not include a midplate on their 980ti strix I will buy you an internet cookie. Overall I think the triple fan design was almost like a beta on the 980ti before they got it right on the 1080.


The cooler on the 980ti Strix could probably be considered a beta as it is a departure from the rest of the STRIX line and was significantly different. The 980s and 970s not only had the two fan design but the VRM heatsinks are attached to the PCB vs the Cooler on the 980TI. I believe some heat pipes were added to the 980TI, its obviously larger, etc. It perhaps was a lead up to the PASCAL release. I do not know. As much as I like ASUS GPUs, the coolers have never been particularly effective in my opinion.


----------



## asdkj1740

is there any one successfully mount new corsiar astek aio like h80i gt and h110i gtx with nzxt g10 on pcb without any problems?
or g10 is only suitable for old generation corsair astek aio?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> is there any one successfully mount new corsiar astek aio like h80i gt and h110i gtx with nzxt g10 on pcb without any problems?
> or g10 is only suitable for old generation corsair astek aio?


Its only compatible with Asetek designs. Now with some work, im sure you could rig something up. If you already have said H80 or such style cooler, I believe the Corsair HG-10 works with them.


----------



## Corsa911

Well I think I'm finally done with the build. Thanks to those in this thread who I silently used information from.

Shes powerful, small, and best of all, dead silent.


----------



## Manac0r

GZ - just installed a G10 and X61 in a Manta ITX case. Now purrs like a cat but performs like a lion. OC'd TX to 1500 and never hit above 60, Also got 6850K to 4.4 on 1.2V pretty sure I could push it harder but it'll do for now....Water cooled.

Edit - I built a Mini ITX so that I could have a decent PC n the living room and I am not disappointed....The missus however is another story....

Pics incoming,,


----------



## jakelikesnaps

Hi there! New poster, hopefully will be around to help any other people









So I recently bit the bullet and tried to fit a Kraken G10 onto a MSI R9 390 card, with a Kraken x61 pump attached to cool. It wasn't exactly easy attaching the backplate, I wouldn't say it was snug as the a couple of the nuts were touching the card itself.







Let it be known that I left the squishy pad thingy's on the card. The 3 pin power cable from the pump would not reach the CPU_OPT 4-pin, so I had to settle for CHA_FAN4 (also 4 pin). The fan on the G10 fit in one of the pumps fan sockets along with the fans on the radiator. No problems there, and finally attached the SATA cable.

Now, when all was done, I placed the card in and the radiator to the top of my case and hit the power. Everything was booting ok! Only problem was the card itself is making a rattling/clicking sound. It's not the fan on the G10, it's not the radiator/fans either, they're all running fine. I read that when you place a 3 pin fan over a 4 pin, it works but there's no way to control the speed of the fan itself. Is that true? When I tried to benchmark the card, it rebooted my computer. Pretty unusual.

When I put the stock cooler back on the card, I've had no problems or seen any damage done.

My setup is

ASUS Sabertooth 990fx r2.0
AMD FX 8350 w/ Corsair H60
Corsair GS800 PSU
Sandisk 120GB SSD
Toshiba 4tb HDD
Hyper-X 8GB RAM
Thermaltake Core v71 Case

Any suggestions on where I went wrong would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakelikesnaps*
> 
> Hi there! New poster, hopefully will be around to help any other people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I recently bit the bullet and tried to fit a Kraken G10 onto a MSI R9 390 card, with a Kraken x61 pump attached to cool. It wasn't exactly easy attaching the backplate, I wouldn't say it was snug as the a couple of the nuts were touching the card itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let it be known that I left the squishy pad thingy's on the card. The 3 pin power cable from the pump would not reach the CPU_OPT 4-pin, so I had to settle for CHA_FAN4 (also 4 pin). The fan on the G10 fit in one of the pumps fan sockets along with the fans on the radiator. No problems there, and finally attached the SATA cable.
> 
> Now, when all was done, I placed the card in and the radiator to the top of my case and hit the power. Everything was booting ok! Only problem was the card itself is making a rattling/clicking sound. It's not the fan on the G10, it's not the radiator/fans either, they're all running fine. I read that when you place a 3 pin fan over a 4 pin, it works but there's no way to control the speed of the fan itself. Is that true? When I tried to benchmark the card, it rebooted my computer. Pretty unusual.
> 
> When I put the stock cooler back on the card, I've had no problems or seen any damage done.
> 
> My setup is
> 
> ASUS Sabertooth 990fx r2.0
> AMD FX 8350 w/ Corsair H60
> Corsair GS800 PSU
> Sandisk 120GB SSD
> Toshiba 4tb HDD
> Hyper-X 8GB RAM
> Thermaltake Core v71 Case
> 
> Any suggestions on where I went wrong would be greatly appreciated.


There is no problem using a 4 pin header for a 3 pin fan or pump plug. You just need to make sure that the header is in fact set to deliver full power in the BIOS. I think on that mainboard you would would choose the "turbo" setting. That does not appear to be what your problem is though. As you already considered the fans on the G-10 and the radiator and assuming that you are right in that they are not making the rattling noise, that leaves the pump. A bad pump can in fact make that sound. That mainboard should have a plethora of fan headers on it. See if you can plug the pump in leaving everything else as is and of course the side of the case off and listen to the pump to see if its making your noise.

If the pump is bad and or is otherwise not seated correctly, upon starting a benchmark program, the GPU will heat up quick and can give the behavior you encountered. The way you described putting the backplate on, its sounds like you might have grounded something out if it made contact with the GPU board as well, maybe?.. I wish you had taken photos. Anyway, there a re a couple things to try.


----------



## Sleekfire

Hey guys,

I recently purchased a G10 for my reference 290x to be paired with my older antec kuhler 920. I cant seem to get this to work properly as my temps idle at 60 and sky rocket to max temp(94) when under load very quickly. I have reseated and reapplied thermal paste 3 times now, as well as made sure all the screws were tightened. The radiator is mounted to the rear exhaust of my case with it oriented to have the tubes on the bottom. I noticed that the one tube was getting extremely hot but the other tube wasn't. The antec software says the pump is running at full tilt and the fans are as well, but i dont think the liquid is circulating through the radiator/tubes to cool off. Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## jakelikesnaps

Thanks for the reply Ultisym! I'll test out the pump tonight by itself and see if that's the problem







Is the Kraken x61 notorious for being a bad or a loud pump for the G10?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakelikesnaps*
> 
> Thanks for the reply Ultisym! I'll test out the pump tonight by itself and see if that's the problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the Kraken x61 notorious for being a bad or a loud pump for the G10?


Not that im aware of. All manufacturers ship parts that are defective sometimes.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleekfire*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I recently purchased a G10 for my reference 290x to be paired with my older antec kuhler 920. I cant seem to get this to work properly as my temps idle at 60 and sky rocket to max temp(94) when under load very quickly. I have reseated and reapplied thermal paste 3 times now, as well as made sure all the screws were tightened. The radiator is mounted to the rear exhaust of my case with it oriented to have the tubes on the bottom. I noticed that the one tube was getting extremely hot but the other tube wasn't. The antec software says the pump is running at full tilt and the fans are as well, but i dont think the liquid is circulating through the radiator/tubes to cool off. Anyone have any suggestions?


Do you have any photos of the GPU with the air cooler off by chance? Does it use a midplate?

That thought aside, one tube getting hot and the other tube being cool indicates a kinked line or possibly an issue with the radiator, as you have already considered. Do you have another GPU, cheap or otherwise, laying around you can test the 920 on? Or perhaps if its not a tremendous undertaking, mount it to your CPU and test it real quick.


----------



## Sleekfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Do you have any photos of the GPU with the air cooler off by chance? Does it use a midplate?
> 
> That thought aside, one tube getting hot and the other tube being cool indicates a kinked line or possibly an issue with the radiator, as you have already considered. Do you have another GPU, cheap or otherwise, laying around you can test the 920 on? Or perhaps if its not a tremendous undertaking, mount it to your CPU and test it real quick.


I had taken it directly off my CPU and put it on the GPU which had been working for the past 2 years with no issue. I dont have any pictures at the moment but i will try and take some in a bit when i go home for lunch. It was a tight fit to get the radiator to reach the mounting point so a kink may be possible, i tried mounting to the top of the case as well with the same issue happening. i have a bunch of gpus lying around so i could test on another one as well if need be. my friend suggests maybe air got into the lines and just needs to be shaken out, would this be a cause as well?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleekfire*
> 
> I had taken it directly off my CPU and put it on the GPU which had been working for the past 2 years with no issue. I dont have any pictures at the moment but i will try and take some in a bit when i go home for lunch. It was a tight fit to get the radiator to reach the mounting point so a kink may be possible, i tried mounting to the top of the case as well with the same issue happening. i have a bunch of gpus lying around so i could test on another one as well if need be. my friend suggests maybe air got into the lines and just needs to be shaken out, would this be a cause as well?


I doubt the air thing is the issue. If you know it was working recently then the way the problem is described, its really sounding like a potential kinked line.

Does the GPU have a cooler design on it that uses a midplate?


----------



## Sleekfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I doubt the air thing is the issue. If you know it was working recently then the way the problem is described, its really sounding like a potential kinked line.
> 
> Does the GPU have a cooler design on it that uses a midplate?


http://imgur.com/a/Zzdg1

There is an album of photos i took at lunch, no midplate on the GPU at all either.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleekfire*
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/Zzdg1
> 
> There is an album of photos i took at lunch, no midplate on the GPU at all either.


Well that eliminates those potential issues. At this point, the fact that one line is hot and one is not is leading me to the AIO/CLC having an issue. Which sucks, thats one of the more expensive ones isnt it?


----------



## Sleekfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Well that eliminates those potential issues. At this point, the fact that one line is hot and one is not is leading me to the AIO/CLC having an issue. Which sucks, thats one of the more expensive ones isnt it?


I sent a message to Antec asking them if they could know what could have happened so we'll see what they respond with, worst case i guess it throwing the aircooler back on and just riding it out or trying another water cooler that my friend has so we'll see i guess.


----------



## Helgaiden

So...took about 3ish hours with the help from a very crafty friend. I managed to keep the backplate and midplate on my 970 ftw+. The backplate required modification because the holes to mount EVGA's ACX 2.0 cooler to the PCB did not line up at all with the Kraken G10 backplate holes. The board PCB does still have the reference mounting holes though, which would require removal of the backplate to use so that was roadblock number 1. We ended up drilling new holes on the backplate that lined up with the reference mounting holes and that did the trick, though getting the holes lined up right and deburred and everything took a few tries. The copper shim which was roughly 25mm x 25mm x 1.5mm worked out perfectly.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Helgaiden/media/20160822_192632_zpszidzcoou.jpg.html

But then got a little confused when putting the pump on and had to redo it after the first try, but did eventually get it on good. Did an asterisk type of pattern for the thermal paste applications and it seems to have turned out good. Gaming (Bf4, rainbow six siege, the division, etc), i could see the GPU previously hit nearly 80c. Now, running Valley benchmark on Extreme HD for about 40 minutes, the highest the GPU got was 55c. Previous idle was in the mid 40s, now its in the high 20s/low 30s. Great improvements so far, ready to start pushing it now.

But yeah, there were alot of roadblocks on getting this installed because of the non-reference PCB and cooler so be aware of possible issues. Have to get creative to make it work. These pictures don't really tell the whole story, but there is a video coming that will detail all that









Here are more pics:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Helgaiden/media/20160822_193749_zpszfixgggc.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Helgaiden/media/20160822_193757_zpssjdmp5ej.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Helgaiden/media/20160822_202321_zpsd1brksrn.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Helgaiden/media/20160822_202336_zpsoszcvu8f.jpg.html


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Helgaiden*
> 
> So...took about 3ish hours with the help from a very crafty friend. I managed to keep the backplate and midplate on my 970 ftw+. The backplate required modification because the holes to mount EVGA's ACX 2.0 cooler to the PCB did not line up at all with the Kraken G10 backplate holes. The board PCB does still have the reference mounting holes though, which would require removal of the backplate to use so that was roadblock number 1. We ended up drilling new holes on the backplate that lined up with the reference mounting holes and that did the trick, though getting the holes lined up right and deburred and everything took a few tries. The copper shim which was roughly 25mm x 25mm x 1.5mm worked out perfectly.
> 
> But then got a little confused when putting the pump on and had to redo it after the first try, but did eventually get it on good. Did an asterisk type of pattern for the thermal paste applications and it seems to have turned out good. Gaming (Bf4, rainbow six siege, the division, etc), i could see the GPU previously hit nearly 80c. Now, running Valley benchmark on Extreme HD for about 40 minutes, the highest the GPU got was 55c. Previous idle was in the mid 40s, now its in the high 20s/low 30s. Great improvements so far, ready to start pushing it now.
> 
> But yeah, there were alot of roadblocks on getting this installed because of the non-reference PCB and cooler so be aware of possible issues. Have to get creative to make it work. These pictures don't really tell the whole story, but there is a video coming that will detail all that


Nice job. I come from a time when everything had to be modified in someway to make it work. These days im careful to buy things that work together because its just easy to do. But kudos for not throwing your hands up in the air and saying im screwed and throwing in the towel. Your reward.....Your numbers look great.


----------



## jakelikesnaps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Not that im aware of. All manufacturers ship parts that are defective sometimes.


As it turned out, my Kraken x61 pump head was vibrating/buzzing and making dripping sounds within the pump head itself, making a real racket. I made sure the power was at a constant 12v and at 100% power when testing it to discount any problems with the power, it seems defective so I'm sending it back today.

Does that explain why the card itself overheated when I tried to benchmark it? When connected it was at 36/37°C idle when normally it's around 31-32°C with the stock cooler, so something was amiss.

Anyway I'm open to suggestions for a 280mm radiator replacement for my MSI R9 390 / Kraken G10 combo


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakelikesnaps*
> 
> As it turned out, my Kraken x61 pump head was vibrating/buzzing and making dripping sounds within the pump head itself, making a real racket. I made sure the power was at a constant 12v and at 100% power when testing it to discount any problems with the power, it seems defective so I'm sending it back today.
> 
> Does that explain why the card itself overheated when I tried to benchmark it? When connected it was at 36/37°C idle when normally it's around 31-32°C with the stock cooler, so something was amiss.
> 
> Anyway I'm open to suggestions for a 280mm radiator replacement for my MSI R9 390 / Kraken G10 combo


If the pump is screwed up and the hot and cold lines are as described, sure, thats almost certainly your issue.

As for 280mm radiator AIO setups, I really do not get into recommending one over the other. You should get one that you like the specs, looks, price and warranty (specifically, what do they cover if there is a leak from their unit). I personally use a pair of Corsair H90s on each of my GTX 980s. Ive never had any problems with their products and they have a reputation for making things right if there is a leak that causes other damages. I have literally installed hundreds of them. But there are many excellent and better looking choices out there, some with really good pumps, etc. Most of the time, i tell people to get what they need on these G-10 setups and not what they think would be awesome, because the difference in cooling between the 120mm and 140mm AIOs is a couple degrees C and the difference between the 240mm and 280mm units is a few degrees C. Not a game changing difference.
That got kind of cluttered but the point is just get what you want as long as it fits and the warranty is good.


----------



## Helgaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Nice job. I come from a time when everything had to be modified in someway to make it work. These days im careful to buy things that work together because its just easy to do. But kudos for not throwing your hands up in the air and saying im screwed and throwing in the towel. Your reward.....Your numbers look great.


Thanks! Yeah some people think I Frankenstein things sometimes but to me its like you said, sometimes stuff just needs to be coerced into working together right haha. Makes one extra proud of the accomplishment.

Here's the video I mentioned:


----------



## madmeatballs

Do you guys think it would make a difference in temps if I swap my Kraken X41 to an X61?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Do you guys think it would make a difference in temps if I swap my Kraken X41 to an X61?


Sure it will make a few degrees C difference. What are your temps now? I mean is a few degrees going to make or break your plans for the GPU?


----------



## gaffers77

Did a forum search, couldn't find anything for this -

Does anyone have experience of removing the cooler from MSI GTX 980 OCV1? That's butt ugly one that exhausts out of the back.

I already have a G10 and X41 from my old GTX 770. I didn't have trouble with that one, but this seems to have a bazillion screws, including the io plate being attached to the cooler.

Really struggling with it, so now it's in my case with the stock cooler sans a few screws.


----------



## gaffers77

Found a video for OCV1, I do actually have to remove TWENTY TWO screws


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Sure it will make a few degrees C difference. What are your temps now? I mean is a few degrees going to make or break your plans for the GPU?


Well, max temps are 43C, trying to get rid of core throttling on the gtx 1070. LOL


----------



## [email protected]

Hello,

I ordered Kraken G10 for my 980Ti Classified with copper shim, do i need another stuff like gelid pwm fan adapter?

Thank you.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I ordered Kraken G10 for my 980Ti Classified with copper shim, do i need another stuff like gelid pwm fan adapter?
> 
> Thank you.


If you want the GPU to control the fan speed. Otherwise you can just plug it into any fan header on the mainboard or a molex/SATA power plug to fan header adapter


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If you want the GPU to control the fan speed. Otherwise you can just plug it into any fan header on the mainboard or a molex/SATA power plug to fan header adapter


Thank you.


----------



## nexxusty

Can't believe how well these DIY hybrids keep a 1080 FE cool.

Usually gaming at 40c.... idles at 27c... that's like 3c from ambient. Crazy. 16c over ambient for 100% load is crazy too.

Super impressed.


----------



## Diablosbud

Does anyone know if this bracket is compatible with the H80i V2?


----------



## Mister300

No, has to be round AIO


----------



## KickAssCop

If the person who started this thread can update then the best SHIM to purchase is one from Amazon.com. It is 42X42X1.5 mm (sometimes 1.2 mm as well). This worked wonders when I installed the G10 on my 980 Ti Classified cards.

For WaterCooling, I recommend the H55 or H75. My experience with NZXT X41 was not very good since the tubing was too long and there was a 5 C temperature difference between H55 and X41.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> If the person who started this thread can update then the best SHIM to purchase is one from Amazon.com. It is 42X42X1.5 mm (sometimes 1.2 mm as well). This worked wonders when I installed the G10 on my 980 Ti Classified cards.
> 
> For WaterCooling, I recommend the H55 or H75. My experience with NZXT X41 was not very good since the tubing was too long and there was a 5 C temperature difference between H55 and X41.


Good to have your experiences in the thread but remember there are a LOT of other coolers available for this mod than just those 3. I would think the H-55 is certainly one of the best deals.


----------



## KickAssCop

Of course there are other coolers. I was merely answering the shim question since I have been asked that question many times and it would be good to have it upfront in the main post.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> For WaterCooling, I recommend the H55 or H75. My experience with NZXT X41 was not very good since the tubing was too long and there was a 5 C temperature difference between H55 and X41.


It's a good thing I didn't follow your recommendation when I built my PC. Neither the H55 nor H75 have tubes long enough to go from the bottom of my case to my gpu, especially when I was running an SLI setup.



How would you suggest making that work with tubes that were 4.2 inches shorter?


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> If the person who started this thread can update then the best SHIM to purchase is one from Amazon.com. It is 42X42X1.5 mm (sometimes 1.2 mm as well). This worked wonders when I installed the G10 on my 980 Ti Classified cards.
> 
> For WaterCooling, I recommend the H55 or H75. My experience with NZXT X41 was not very good since the tubing was too long and there was a 5 C temperature difference between H55 and X41.


why is your shim larger than the ones specified almost by everyone else in this thread?


----------



## KickAssCop

I got the 25X25X1.2 shim as well. However, I continuously struggled to keep it perfectly aligned in the dot center of the core.
The 42X42X1.2 shim just kept nicely set and even if it moved a little, would not expose the core, whereas, the 25 mm has the risk of exposing a small edge/or part of the core during installation (if it moves).

As for tubing, of course the X41 works for some cases. However, I believe the person above missed the point that due to longer tubes, the temperatures were higher (in my experience) between H55 and X41.


----------



## Randomstar

Hey guys,

I just ordered an EVGA GTX1070 superclocked I believe it has the acx3.0. it has a mid plate from the looks of it, which shim will I need? 20x20x1.2 I found on eBay, would that work?


----------



## KickAssCop

My recommendation is to use PS3 repair kit on amazon. It has 42X42X1.5 mm shim. Very easy to use and works wonders.
20X20 may have issues during installation if it shifts location when you rotate the block to fit/tighten screws.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> My recommendation is to use PS3 repair kit on amazon. It has 42X42X1.5 mm shim. Very easy to use and works wonders.
> 20X20 may have issues during installation if it shifts location when you rotate the block to fit/tighten screws.


It really shouldnt be shifting if you are tightening down evenly, or not over tightening. This has not been a big issue at all for people in this thread. For the best temperatures, they need to use the thinnest shim that will get the job done. Is it going to make a huge difference in the end? Probably only a couple degrees C. But to each their own.


----------



## clubfoot

You could have done it like this.


----------



## asdkj1740

is there any news nzxt is going to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> You could have done it like this.


G10 can be installed with new corsair aio???? perfect match???


----------



## HAL900

My kraken and temp


----------



## majnu

I don't think your GPU overlay is working as it isn't reading anything.


----------



## HAL900

My gpu working very well


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAL900*
> 
> My gpu working very well


How can your GPU temp be less than your ambient temp unless you like in Greenland where it is in minus figures


----------



## HAL900

yes yes


----------



## bigmac121

did you used the scews supplied? I have the 1.6 shim. TIA


----------



## clubfoot

It's a Corsair 750D Air Series case, upper and lower NZXTs sucking from outside as well as the front mount cpu rad with very low motherboard temps.

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> is there any news nzxt is going to
> G10 can be installed with new corsair aio???? perfect match???


----------



## MickJones

Hey folks, first post on Overclock.net here.

Check out my new 2016 rig "The Kraken"

EVGA GTX 1080 FTW SLI - with Kraken X31's mounted with Kraken g10's & Noctua NF-B9's 92mm

Here is a RigBuilder link to my rig: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6586898

As you can see in my pictures - I did NOT use a copper shim for the installation. I used a pair of pliers to clip off the 4 screw stands that surround the chip. This method allowed me to seat the cooler directly on the chip, however very likely voided the warranty through EVGA. I'm not worried about that as I bought the Microcenter warranty on these cards to swap them out in the next 2 years for something better - but I would recommend using a shim if you are concerned for keeping your cards manufacturers warranty.

With both cards overclocked temps top out at around 62C on the top card (that's after 4+ hours of intense gaming with graphics settings maxed on a game like Witcher 3) - but for most games temps hover around 50-58C.... The bottom card never surpasses 50C... At these temps the clocks stabilize at 2101, sometimes dip to 2088mhz and I've got the memory set to 10,800mhz 24/7 stable

The X31's do a pretty good job of cooling, especially on the bottom card. In hindsight I would have opted for a X41 for the top card for a little extra cooling power with the 140mm radiator - that may have brought me down into the sub 50-55Crange as opposed to 60ish. Overall I am extremely pleased with this rig and I've scored some monster benchmarks in Firestrike Ultra and Timespy. This rig also just *SLAYS* any game I throw at it completely maxed out - and I'm looking forward to 4K+144hz+G-Sync monitors. Will these cards max these future monitors out? No.... However, I can run 4K DSR easily above 60FPS (70-120 in most cases) - so it will still be very solid for the future.

I'm also about to start building custom PC's for people in my area who are interested, as it is a hobby and a passion of mine!

Let me know what you think


----------



## Corsa911

Nice build, what's the cpu temp like with all that hot air being pumped in your case?

I had to set my GPU rads up as exhaust, man those things put out some heat.


----------



## MickJones

Since taking this picture I have actually turned the top video card's fans (back exhaust) around to exhaust rather than intake. The system runs much cooler overall and the top cards temps were unaffected.

Processor temps top out at 70C but normally hover around 55-60C. They were quite a bit higher at like 78C/70C before the fan switch.

The bottom card puts out so much less heat so that it is nice cool air coming through the case. Plus this way my intakes are front/bottom and exhaust top/back the so air naturally flows through the case better overall.


----------



## Corsa911

I have a very similar build except I'm one hardware generation behind you ?

I had to set my case up in a very unconventional way due to its compact design. My sole intake fan is a noctua s in the back of the case. I also have my cpu rad pulling in from the top but I have a sound deadening shroud installed so airflow is restricted but oddly my temps are great.

How's the noise from your case? I went with h55's and all noctua fans and couldn't be more happy with how quiet the system is.

And why didn't you get the red g10s? ?


----------



## MickJones

Mine is whisper quiet. All of the fans in my case are controlled by temperature in some fashion.

The CPU cooler fans are based on the h100i pump temp. The gpu's fans (3, push/pull 120mm noctua and kraken g10 92mm noctua) are all tied to the video card temps and are whisper quit even at high rpm. Also the video cards fans are independent of one another and both have gelid converter cables and 4-way y cables used to power and control the 3 fans. All other fans are tied to the motherboard and are CPU temp controlled


----------



## $ilent

Hi folks. Can some one tell me if the G10 is compatible with a smile r9 290 twin frozr please?

Thanks


----------



## KickAssCop

Yes it is.


----------



## enfluence

Kraken x41 with g10 bracket on Titan XP here working great. Temperature is insanely good.


----------



## bigmac121

Temps? before/after please...


----------



## bigmac121

I put the G1o and H90 on, idle 34-35 but it goes to 83c+ then crashes the PC.
Is the anyway to test the H90?


----------



## Mister300

Make sure your fan header is set for 100% in the BIOS.

I had a similar issue with my Kraken pump not running 100%.

I use the H90 on my XFX 390X and it does 70 C under load.


----------



## Mister300

What rpm is shown for the H90 pump? Check header in BIOS or utility software such as smart fan.


----------



## bigmac121

Something still not right, pump and fan running at 100% 33-34 idle
Tried to benchmark ROTTR hit 91c and crashed the game. I will pull it apart to check if the shim is covering 100%

Rig
4790K|Z97 Hero VII|16GB 2400Mhz|EVGA 980 Ti Classified |750D|3*SSD 4xHDD|Benq XL2720Z||4K 28in XB280HX|Z906| Corsair Vengence 2100|PS4|EGVA 750W G2|3D vision 2


----------



## bigmac121

update

The shim had plastic covers on

Temp in idle is now 32c BUT gaming still goes to 80c+
The pump must be workiing so what have I done wrong, HELP


----------



## bigmac121

BTW pump and fan running 100% Noisy


----------



## Ultisym

Is the radiator putting off hot air? Assuming it is seated properly and the fan an pump settings are correct, the other culprit is a bad pump.


----------



## Mister300

Is the rad mounted with the liquid lines on the bottom?


----------



## bigmac121

The pump was a refurb from Scan. I just ordered a new one which will be here tomorrow from amazon.
just loaded Starwars, Temp went to 91c on the menu but cold air comming out the back


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> The pump was a refurb from Scan. I just ordered a new one which will be here tomorrow from amazon.
> just loaded Starwars, Temp went to 91c on the menu but cold air comming out the back


Good, let us know what the temps are after putting the new pump on. You really shouldnt be pushing past 60 to 65C at worst. Do place the fans on the radiator to exhaust the heat from the GPU from the case as well if you have not already done so.


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Good, let us know what the temps are after putting the new pump on. You really shouldnt be pushing past 60 to 65C at worst. Do place the fans on the radiator to exhaust the heat from the GPU from the case as well if you have not already done so.


Will do. Had it since 12/09/16 but was a little scared of fitting it. TOO much nice weather in Gravesend. But tomorrow shoud take me 5-10mins.


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mister300*
> 
> Is the rad mounted with the liquid lines on the bottom?


I am not sure what you are asking but the rad is above the GPU, exhaust . 750D case.

2x140mm DS fans intake in front. 1x120mm intake from bottom (2nd cage position)

CPU cooler H80i V1 intake
I have 2 more DS 120mm fans http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/zardon/aerocool-ds-dead-silence-fan-120mm-and-140mm-review/6/

Should I have one for another exhaust?

Thank you all.....


----------



## Mister300

Corsair recommends that the rad mounting orientation has the hoses at the bottom not the top.


----------



## bigmac121

Thats how mine is mounted. What screws did you use to get the extra fan?


----------



## Mister300

Lowes or any hardware store has them. I matched up the threads and length or you can google the screw size and thread.


----------



## bigmac121

Just noticed you have a 120MM inside the case. push/pull? did it make a difference?


----------



## Mister300

Yes a 140mm bumps against my 280 mm rad.

Stays at 70 C for my XFX 390X which runs hot.

Try push pull setup mine runs dead silent.

Noctura 140 mm fan in rear.


----------



## bigmac121

OK new H90 fitted. Idles @26c. I could hear the water in the pump which suggests the old one was faulty.

BUT games still hit the high 80c+

Pump is 100%
Fan is 100%
3 games Startwars, ROTTR and Stalker?? Not playing just loaded save games and not touching the KB.

I will redo the thermal paste and update you guys later today.

Any ideas please let me know. TIA


----------



## bigmac121

OK redonen the paste idles 25c max temp 73c benchmarking ROTTR


----------



## Mister300

ROTR runs get hot too, about 75 C. I also found the BF 1 beta hits 82 C on my AIO/390X setup. Need to do custom loop to get better temps, also if I take of the front panel temps drop 10 C on my NZXT 440.


----------



## bigmac121

i got some new fans coming tomorrow, https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-ph-f140sp-140mm-fan-black-white-fg-007-pt.html

Do you guys let the GPU handle the fans? ate the moment mines on 100% on the MB


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> i got some new fans coming tomorrow, https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-ph-f140sp-140mm-fan-black-white-fg-007-pt.html
> 
> Do you guys let the GPU handle the fans? ate the moment mines on 100% on the MB


A lot of people do. I chose to use a fan controller and set all my radiator fan speeds manually.


----------



## bigmac121

Thanks for that info. Got the gelid adapter coming this weekend.
Got two spare ds 120mm. Will swap them on the H80i and repaste. They are pull at the monent. Should I do push pull?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> Thanks for that info. Got the gelid adapter coming this weekend.
> Got two spare ds 120mm. Will swap them on the H80i and repaste. They are pull at the monent. Should I do push pull?


If you have room for it, sure, the extra fan in push/pull might buy you a couple C cooler. If they are loud fans, you may want to skip the second fan until you see what your temps look like and add a second fan then if needed


----------



## bigmac121

The new fas are Noise level: 19 dB (A) My DS fans are 28db
Corsair are 38db according to their website.
I have a Noctua NF-B9-1600 PWM redux instead of the NZXT fan. Very quiet,
I also have aGelid PWM Y Cable, Connect two PWM fans to one socket which I intend to connect to the GPU for push/pull.

As all ways Ultisym thanks for your advice:thumb:


----------



## markob53

Installed my G10 maybe a year ago on my 780Ti, best temps i ever got was 57c on full load, currently i'm hitting roughly 68c on full load. I'm curious as to why such and increase? and why or why was it as 'high' as 57c in the first place? I see people hitting mid 40s on here.

I did clean the radiator out a couple of days ago, which may have shaved a couple of degrees off but nothing major, maybe the fan on the VRMS needs cleaning, but still i don't think it should be that high? i'm convinced that my case (NZXT H440) is the culprit, because i must have reseated the cooler at least 10 times back when i installed it. My cpu can also get a little on the warm side.


----------



## Mister300

Blame i

radmounting.jpg 635k .jpg file
t on the case I have a white 440. If I remove the front or the side panel my temps drop 10 C easy.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Installed my G10 maybe a year ago on my 780Ti, best temps i ever got was 57c on full load, currently i'm hitting roughly 68c on full load. I'm curious as to why such and increase? and why or why was it as 'high' as 57c in the first place? I see people hitting mid 40s on here.
> 
> I did clean the radiator out a couple of days ago, which may have shaved a couple of degrees off but nothing major, maybe the fan on the VRMS needs cleaning, but still i don't think it should be that high? i'm convinced that my case (NZXT H440) is the culprit, because i must have reseated the cooler at least 10 times back when i installed it. My cpu can also get a little on the warm side.


Mid to high 50s are typical at "FULL LOAD". Mid to high 40s would be typical while gaming. This is what the temps have done on the last 3 pair of GPUs ive run anyway.

Did your temps go up after swapping your equipment into this case or have you been using the G-10 in this case all along? AIOs do degrade and do have a finite life span. How long has yours been online?


----------



## bigmac121

I was hoping for the same low to mid 60s. It doesn't matter if I have the side panel on or off??


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> I was hoping for the same low to mid 60s. It doesn't matter if I have the side panel on or off??


Do you have the fans set to exhaust the GPU heat? Or is it set to intake air?


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Mid to high 50s are typical at "FULL LOAD". Mid to high 40s would be typical while gaming. This is what the temps have done on the last 3 pair of GPUs ive run anyway.
> 
> Did your temps go up after swapping your equipment into this case or have you been using the G-10 in this case all along? AIOs do degrade and do have a finite life span. How long has yours been online?


Well for example in the latest Fifa game (in the menus) at 99% load it hits 68c, and higher if my second monitor is online.

I haven't always had the G10, i started using it because my case was getting very warm when i built the computer, so i got new front case fans with a G10 & Corsair H55 for the GPU. This dropped my temps 20 degrees and ran quieter compared to the stock fans, 57c was what i was getting when my GPU was hitting 99% usage either in a game or doing a stress test and i was happy with that, at most it might have hit 60c after long periods of gaming.

I have the H55 rad mounted at the rear as an exhaust, it's probably been running for about a year in truth. I don't really want to take of any of the panels but i'm sure that my case doesn't help, the vents are tiny and are lined with mesh to keep it quiet (ironically because the airflow is so poor, i've had to ramp up the fans and increase noise anyway)

I think the chances are i'll be upgrading soon anyway, either to a 1080 or 1080ti (if they release it) with the AIO pre-built onto it.


----------



## bigmac121

Push/Pull at the moment.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Well for example in the latest Fifa game (in the menus) at 99% load it hits 68c, and higher if my second monitor is online.
> 
> I haven't always had the G10, i started using it because my case was getting very warm when i built the computer, so i got new front case fans with a G10 & Corsair H55 for the GPU. This dropped my temps 20 degrees and ran quieter compared to the stock fans, 57c was what i was getting when my GPU was hitting 99% usage either in a game or doing a stress test and i was happy with that, at most it might have hit 60c after long periods of gaming.
> 
> I have the H55 rad mounted at the rear as an exhaust, it's probably been running for about a year in truth. I don't really want to take of any of the panels but i'm sure that my case doesn't help, the vents are tiny and are lined with mesh to keep it quiet (ironically because the airflow is so poor, i've had to ramp up the fans and increase noise anyway)
> 
> I think the chances are i'll be upgrading soon anyway, either to a 1080 or 1080ti (if they release it) with the AIO pre-built onto it.


Switch the H55 from Rear to the front as Intake and your temp will dropped 10c at least.. I have the H440 here with 2 980 Ti Hybrid installed as Intake on the front and the temp very good, barely break 50c..


----------



## bigmac121

I was thinkiing of getting the "Primo" case.
BTW can you edit your posts?


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Switch the H55 from Rear to the front as Intake and your temp will dropped 10c at least.. I have the H440 here with 2 980 Ti Hybrid installed as Intake on the front and the temp very good, barely break 50c..


In actual fact this is how i had it to begin with, but i changed to the rear because i was advised by almost everyone that having it as an intake is a mistake because the hot air from the radiator is just being dumped into the case and the priority should be to get it out of the case.

Still doesn't really explain why my temps have gone up, i guess i might need to give everything a good clean and re-apply the paste. I also think i can make my front case fans run faster because i have low voltage adapters on them all to make them run slower and quiet, but they are currently at 100% but are still being drowned out by the other fans in my case. So i may take the voltage adapters off and increase the RPM of the front fans, with minimal effect to the noise my PC outputs.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> In actual fact this is how i had it to begin with, but i changed to the rear because i was advised by almost everyone that having it as an intake is a mistake because the hot air from the radiator is just being dumped into the case and the priority should be to get it out of the case.


I will stand by that. They dump a lot of heat that you really dont want inside the case. There are always exceptions but the majority of the time this mod works best with the fan exhausting air from the case. But you still have to put some effort into the rest of your air circuit and make sure there is good flow through the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Still doesn't really explain why my temps have gone up, i guess i might need to give everything a good clean and re-apply the paste. I also think i can make my front case fans run faster because i have low voltage adapters on them all to make them run slower and quiet, but they are currently at 100% but are still being drowned out by the other fans in my case. So i may take the voltage adapters off and increase the RPM of the front fans, with minimal effect to the noise my PC outputs.


How do you have all the fans setup in the case. Size, location, intake or exhaust etc?


----------



## asdkj1740

after changing the copper base of aio to flat one (arctic hybrid 140), the temp drops significantly from 58c to 50c. i was using conventional cpu aio (id cooling frostflow 120) which has slightly curve copper base and that was not good for gpu. my 1070 gpu clock now has got zero drop and stabilized at 2114 (by gpu + 110) max, i tried (gpu +130) but the gameplay froze and closed directly
i am using ftw 1070 with the second bios, the power usage of the card can be jumped to 230w peak.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> after changing the copper base of aio to flat one (arctic hybrid 140), the temp drops significantly from 58c to 50c. i was using conventional cpu aio (id cooling frostflow 120) which has slightly curve copper base and that was not good for gpu. my 1070 gpu clock now has got zero drop and stabilized at 2114 (by gpu + 110) max, i tried (gpu +130) but the gameplay froze and closed directly
> i am using ftw 1070 with the second bios, the power usage of the card can be jumped to 230w peak.


People generally get those temps with just a simple Corsair H55 AIO or equivalent. All the Nzxt brackets I have installed to date have been used with simple out of the box AIO/CLCs made for use on CPUs. The H90s I run have now seen service on three generations of GPU without a hiccup. I am not familiar with Frostflow, but These CLCs are cheap. I suppose it is possible to get one with a cold plate that far out of whack it causes 8 C temp difference, but It is not common. I would of RMA'd if I thought that was the issue.


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> People generally get those temps with just a simple Corsair H55 AIO or equivalent. All the Nzxt brackets I have installed to date have been used with simple out of the box AIO/CLCs made for use on CPUs. The H90s I run have now seen service on three generations of GPU without a hiccup. I am not familiar with Frostflow, but These CLCs are cheap. I suppose it is possible to get one with a cold plate that far out of whack it causes 8 C temp difference, but It is not common. I would of RMA'd if I thought that was the issue.


the temps of corsair seahawk and evga hybrid show the differences of flat copper base and curve copper base.
for 980ti, msi seahawk aio is h55 curve copper base aio and it is far worse than evga hybrid using complete flat copper base aio
for the latest 1080, msi seahawk changes to use flat one, an upgraded version of h55, and the temp of it is much closer to evga hybrid 1080.
hardwarecanucks and gamersnexus both have these two cards gpu temp test and both suggest the same conclusion.
i am not saying corsair h55 is bad but a complete flat copper base aio can bring significant improvement compared to curve copper base.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> the temps of corsair seahawk and evga hybrid show the differences of flat copper base and curve copper base.
> for 980ti, msi seahawk aio is h55 curve copper base aio and it is far worse than evga hybrid using complete flat copper base aio
> for the latest 1080, msi seahawk changes to use flat one, an upgraded version of h55, and the temp of it is much closer to evga hybrid 1080.
> hardwarecanucks and gamersnexus both have these two cards gpu temp test and both suggest the same conclusion.
> i am not saying corsair h55 is bad but a complete flat copper base aio can bring significant improvement compared to curve copper base.


I am not arguing with you about using a better cold plate being better. Im simply saying on this mod, keeping it cheap is the point and that the cheap out of the box AIOs will get the job done with excellent temps.The great thing about this mod is the average computer user can install in under an hour. If someone wished to start modifying the basic setup of a simple bracket and cheap AIO, they really should consider going ahead and going with a custom loop.Just my opinion.

Most people see temps well into the 40s while gaming and mid 50s C with any out of the box AIO. These numbers are more than adequate for excellent OC potential on modern GPUs and can be accomplished for ~100 bucks.


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I am not arguing with you about using a better cold plate being better. Im simply saying on this mod, keeping it cheap is the point and that the cheap out of the box AIOs will get the job done with excellent temps.The great thing about this mod is the average computer user can install in under an hour. If someone wished to start modifying the basic setup of a simple bracket and cheap AIO, they really should consider going ahead and going with a custom loop.Just my opinion.
> 
> Most people see temps well into the 40s while gaming and mid 50s C with any out of the box AIO. These numbers are more than adequate for excellent OC potential on modern GPUs and can be accomplished for ~100 bucks.


no offense, pascal is too senstive to temperature so the temp should be as low as possible, although ~50mhz reduction in gpu clock may be insignificant to actual gaming experiences. arctic gpu hybrid aio is another solution providing much better result with similar cost.

nzxt g10 bracket is extremely expensive, my last aio costs even less then the price of nzxt g10, still work like a charm. (id cooling is going to introduce another gpu aio 360mm cooling and id cooling=cheap price)
i hope nzxt would lower the price of g10 and introduce 2nd version of the g10 improving vram and vrm cooling and the quality of those screws and other aio compatibility (at least for those corsair new gen aio). nzxt aio is much better than corsair one as i found that longer aio tube is very important. nxzt should sell these bundles.

the price differential between evga ftw and evga ftw hybrid is just $40 usd.......


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> nzxt g10 bracket is extremely expensive


I am curious, how much is it there? It seems to be affordable where I am. Around 33$.


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Do you have the fans set to exhaust the GPU heat? Or is it set to intake air?


Exhaust. ROTTR max 65c.
Primo case coming on the 5th.


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> I am curious, how much is it there? It seems to be affordable where I am. Around 33$.


And I got mine for £23.00


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> And I got mine for £23.00


Well, what he said an AIO was cheaper than the G10, I wonder how much he got his g10. The cheapest AIO I can get here is around 50USD.


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Well, what he said an AIO was cheaper than the G10, I wonder how much he got his g10. The cheapest AIO I can get here is around 50USD.


And I haven't started on the beers yet
Here they start from £40.00

https://www.scan.co.uk/products/antec-h600-pro-aio-hydro-cooler-kit-with-blue-led-fan-and-120mm-radiator-for-intel-and-amd-cpus


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> no offense, pascal is too senstive to temperature so the temp should be as low as possible, although ~50mhz reduction in gpu clock may be insignificant to actual gaming experiences. arctic gpu hybrid aio is another solution providing much better result with similar cost.
> 
> nzxt g10 bracket is extremely expensive, my last aio costs even less then the price of nzxt g10, still work like a charm. (id cooling is going to introduce another gpu aio 360mm cooling and id cooling=cheap price)
> i hope nzxt would lower the price of g10 and introduce 2nd version of the g10 improving vram and vrm cooling and the quality of those screws and other aio compatibility (at least for those corsair new gen aio). nzxt aio is much better than corsair one as i found that longer aio tube is very important. nxzt should sell these bundles.
> 
> the price differential between evga ftw and evga ftw hybrid is just $40 usd.......


Really? I gave 25 $ each for my G-10 brackets. I got the H90s on sale for 75 $ each.

There is no reason for a pissing contest here. But I have installed over 30 of these now and I respectfully disagree with your position. Its ok to disagree.

Have a great rest of your weekend


----------



## secretsquirre1

I'm getting a 1080 GTX FTW. I know it is possible to keep the midplate on if you use a copper shim. Could I use EVGA's AIO GPU cooler instead, so I wouldn't have to use a copper shim?


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> I am curious, how much is it there? It seems to be affordable where I am. Around 33$.


https://world.taobao.com/item/44348181494.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.AgISKz#detail
the $88 RMB one, which is about $13 USD, half price of nzxt g10 for the similar design, with fan and vrm heatsinks and led included.
these brackets are not complicated design....just a metal frame with some holes and screws...

id cooling frostflow 120, ~$30usd
https://world.taobao.com/item/528815894637.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.0l06YQ#detail

it maybe impolite to say that in a nzxt g10 thread..my bad
nzxt g10 is not a bad design while nzxt as a, one of the first, big brand trying to provide another gpu cooling solution which should be respected and appreciated, but just too expensive for me

no offense at all, my english is bad, maybe it seems too rude, sorry about that


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *secretsquirre1*
> 
> I'm getting a 1080 GTX FTW. I know it is possible to keep the midplate on if you use a copper shim. Could I use EVGA's AIO GPU cooler instead, so I wouldn't have to use a copper shim?


it is quiet stupid to do that.. why dont you just buy the hybrid version...much better solution to vram and vrm and with cheaper price and convenience.
the mid plate or the cooling plate prevents users to change the cooling solution with this plate installed together, and if the mid plate is removed then the back plate cant be mounted too.

however, i think your idea may work, given these two parts do not intervene each other


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> https://world.taobao.com/item/44348181494.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.AgISKz#detail
> the $88 RMB one, which is about $13 USD, half price of nzxt g10 for the similar design, with fan and vrm heatsinks and led included.
> these brackets are not complicated design....just a metal frame with some holes and screws...
> 
> id cooling frostflow 120, ~$30usd
> https://world.taobao.com/item/528815894637.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.0l06YQ#detail
> 
> it maybe impolite to say that in a nzxt g10 thread..my bad
> nzxt g10 is not a bad design while nzxt as a, one of the first, big brand trying to provide another gpu cooling solution which should be respected and appreciated, but just too expensive for me
> 
> no offense at all, my english is bad, maybe it seems too rude, sorry about that


Wow that is really cheap. It even looks cooler with those LED lit side displays! The seems to be an OEM brandless G10 but looks much better lol. Although the build quality doesn't look good but for the price..


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Wow that is really cheap. It even looks cooler with those LED lit side displays! The seems to be an OEM brandless G10 but looks much better lol. Although the build quality doesn't look good but for the price..


yes, what you said is about quality control and it should not be difficult to fix it.
but the fact is that, in my opinion, these gpu aio mounting tool should not be that expensive.
what can you say about the price differential between pascal ftw and pascal ftw hybrid, for 1070 it is just $40usd, with crazy vram and vrm cooling too.....evga well done, hope evga can lead the gpu aio market and reduce the average price of it.


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> yes, what you said is about quality control and it should not be difficult to fix it.
> but the fact is that, in my opinion, these gpu aio mounting tool should not be that expensive.
> what can you say about the price differential between pascal ftw and pascal ftw hybrid, for 1070 it is just $40usd, with crazy vram and vrm cooling too.....evga well done, hope evga can lead the gpu aio market and reduce the average price of it.


The problem will be the availability of hybrid versions of the card. As for me I have opted to purchase a zotac amp extreme and got the g10 to put an aio. The price difference of the hybrid from non hybrid here locally is crazy that it isn't worth it anymore (I also haven't been seeing hybrids for sale around here). So for me getting the g10 is a much cheaper way and in the long run I can use it to other cards when I want to upgrade (well it depends if it will be compatible, which it will be most likely).


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> in the long run I can use it to other cards when I want to upgrade (well it depends if it will be compatible, which it will be most likely).


This is one of my favorite aspects of this particular mod. Ive swapped the same G-10s and same H-90s across a pair of 770s, a pair of 970s and now they are on a pair of 980s. The 970s in particular had the VRMs in a different location. Was still able to work it out.


----------



## madmeatballs

You guys think using a Cryorig A80 would be fine with the G10? It's got an Asetek waterblock.


----------



## Ultisym

Looks like it will work fine. Let us know what numbers you get. Some of the reviews I saw said you get a 6 year warranty if you register it, what that warranty is really worth I dont know. They also said it out performs the H110 which caught my eye. Probably a better pump.


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Looks like it will work fine. Let us know what numbers you get. Some of the reviews I saw said you get a 6 year warranty if you register it, what that warranty is really worth I dont know. They also said it out performs the H110 which caught my eye. Probably a better pump.


Well, I currently don't have it but I am eyeing on it. I wonder if it is better than the X61 though.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Well, I currently don't have it but I am eyeing on it. I wonder if it is better than the X61 though.


Wouldnt mind trying one, may suggest one to the next person I build for that wants an AIO.


----------



## bigmac121

OK changed case to A Primo. Idle temps down to 24c, So the H90 must be working. The H90 fan is nosiy What do you recommend as a replacement?
Gaming temps still go into the low 70's.
Should I try another copper shim? Can you recommed in the UK?

I know its' highish temps but still better that the stock cooler. Quieter


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> OK changed case to A Primo. Idle temps down to 24c, So the H90 must be working. The H90 fan is nosiy What do you recommend as a replacement?
> Gaming temps still go into the low 70's.
> Should I try another copper shim? Can you recommed in the UK?
> 
> I know its' highish temps but still better that the stock cooler. Quieter


I use noctua NF-A14 IPPC fans on my kraken x41, I've also tried the fans from the H240-x which are Gentle typhoons, the noctuas are the best imo. They are expensive tho but I think it is worth it anyway.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> OK changed case to A Primo. Idle temps down to 24c, So the H90 must be working. The H90 fan is nosiy What do you recommend as a replacement?
> Gaming temps still go into the low 70's.
> Should I try another copper shim? Can you recommed in the UK?
> 
> I know its' highish temps but still better that the stock cooler. Quieter


Yeah check your contact pattern for your thermal paste and see if you need to add a shim, assuming you didnt measure.

As for fans, there are many good fans out there and everyone will have a recommendation with a few of them overlapping. I went with a rather new product this last time and have been real happy with them. Specs are in my gaming rig in sig. I used the Aerocool Dead Silence 140mms on all my radiators. They have performed beautifully and quietly for me.


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah check your contact pattern for your thermal paste and see if you need to add a shim, assuming you didnt measure.
> 
> As for fans, there are many good fans out there and everyone will have a recommendation with a few of them overlapping. I went with a rather new product this last time and have been real happy with them. Specs are in my gaming rig in sig. I used the Aerocool Dead Silence 140mms on all my radiators. They have performed beautifully and quietly for me.


I have used DS on my 750D. Awesome fans.

I changed the the bottom fans to intake knock off 3-4 c but still 70c benchmarking TROTTR. ARMA 2 never went above 50c. I would like to see a max of 60c if possible.
I am going to replace the H90 fan as it's the loudest


----------



## Aggression

Is the Kraken G10 compatible with the Sapphire RX 480 Nitro?

I'm interested in purchasing this card and have the bracket left over from a previous build.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## charleslolwut

I am running a H90 push/pull exhaust on my evga1080sc with a 20x20x1.2mm copper shim 35 to 38c idle and 59 to 62c under load gpu clock steady at 2050. I was wondering if those temperatures are ok I was expecting lower temps water cooling my card. Thanks in advance.


----------



## BigBeard86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charleslolwut*
> 
> I am running a H90 push/pull exhaust on my evga1080sc with a 20x20x1.2mm copper shim 35 to 38c idle and 59 to 62c under load gpu clock steady at 2050. I was wondering if those temperatures are ok I was expecting lower temps water cooling my card. Thanks in advance.


I use a kraken x40 on my 1080 and get 29c idle and 39c full load - never go above 40c. your temps are not normal, unless your fan speed is at 0.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charleslolwut*
> 
> I am running a H90 push/pull exhaust on my evga1080sc with a 20x20x1.2mm copper shim 35 to 38c idle and 59 to 62c under load gpu clock steady at 2050. I was wondering if those temperatures are ok I was expecting lower temps water cooling my card. Thanks in advance.


Couple of things, First.Are you running multiple monitors on this GPU as that will raise the idle temps a few C sometimes. The Midplate itself can generate a little more temp on the Idle side. 59 to 62C under full load is not bad. It could be better but thats well within what I consider the normal temp range that this mod gives _at full load_. What are your temps while playing your average game?


----------



## charleslolwut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Couple of things, First.Are you running multiple monitors on this GPU as that will raise the idle temps a few C sometimes. The Midplate itself can generate a little more temp on the Idle side. 59 to 62C under full load is not bad. It could be better but thats well within what I consider the normal temp range that this mod gives _at full load_. What are your temps while playing your average game?


I am running 1 1440p 165hz and 1 1080p 60hz and I played battlefied4 for 3 hours and my temps did no go over 62c it was always within 59 to 62c.
With the stock atx 3.0 my temps were usually 65 to 68 with fans at 100%. I was thinking of going with a 15x15x1.0mm copper shim would that improve my temps?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charleslolwut*
> 
> I am running 1 1440p 165hz and 1 1080p 60hz and I played battlefied4 for 3 hours and my temps did no go over 62c it was always within 59 to 62c.
> With the stock atx 3.0 my temps were usually 65 to 68 with fans at 100%. I was thinking of going with a 15x15x1.0mm copper shim would that improve my temps?


Ok, that explains your idle temps. Multiple screens just do that.

I cant speak from experience on your shim issue....those 4 or 5 degrees C your trying to get back could easily be a not so perfect seat of the cold plate or a shim. I know its extra work, and frankly your temps are fine as far as performance and longevity goes, but I would take it apart and look at both sides of the shim and the bottom of the cold plate and see what your contact patterns look like. Ive seen more than one shim come out of the package slightly warped (for lack of better description).


----------



## charleslolwut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ok, that explains your idle temps. Multiple screens just do that.
> 
> I cant speak from experience on your shim issue....those 4 or 5 degrees C your trying to get back could easily be a not so perfect seat of the cold plate or a shim. I know its extra work, and frankly your temps are fine as far as performance and longevity goes, but I would take it apart and look at both sides of the shim and the bottom of the cold plate and see what your contact patterns look like. Ive seen more than one shim come out of the package slightly warped (for lack of better description).


Really appreciate your reply I might remove the copper shim backplate and front plate and install the h90 directly to the GPU im sure the temps will improve then.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charleslolwut*
> 
> Really appreciate your reply I might remove the copper shim backplate and front plate and install the h90 directly to the GPU im sure the temps will improve then.


I wouldnt take off the backplate for the GPU if I didnt have to. The midplates typically do a decent job of dispersing the heat from the vrms, caps etc too.

It will be pretty obvious if you have a contact or lack of contact issue from looking at the parts and the way the thermal paste is smeared. IMO, best to just work your way through that and figure it out. Just my opinion though.


----------



## charleslolwut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I wouldnt take off the backplate for the GPU if I didnt have to. The midplates typically do a decent job of dispersing the heat from the vrms, caps etc too.
> 
> It will be pretty obvious if you have a contact or lack of contact issue from looking at the parts and the way the thermal paste is smeared. IMO, best to just work your way through that and figure it out. Just my opinion though.


Well I removed thermal paste looked even but what I did was inspect all of the shims that I got and chose the best one polished it and cleaned it really good with 91% alcohol and now my temps run at 31 to 35 idle and 53c under load been playing for a few hours and it wont hit 55c I am really happy with those temps =D.

Thanks a lot for your advice really appreciate it.


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charleslolwut*
> 
> Well I removed thermal paste looked even but what I did was inspect all of the shims that I got and chose the best one polished it and cleaned it really good with 91% alcohol and now my temps run at 31 to 35 idle and 53c under load been playing for a few hours and it wont hit 55c I am really happy with those temps =D.
> 
> Thanks a lot for your advice really appreciate it.


What GPU have you got?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charleslolwut*
> 
> Well I removed thermal paste looked even but what I did was inspect all of the shims that I got and chose the best one polished it and cleaned it really good with 91% alcohol and now my temps run at 31 to 35 idle and 53c under load been playing for a few hours and it wont hit 55c I am really happy with those temps =D.
> 
> Thanks a lot for your advice really appreciate it.


Great!, im glad you got it where your happy.







Those numbers are good.


----------



## charleslolwut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> What GPU have you got?


EVGA 1080sc


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charleslolwut*
> 
> EVGA 1080sc


Cheers for the info...

I am really thinking of getting...

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1748
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/ekwb-ek-xlc-predator-360-rev11-all-in-one-hydro-cooler-360mm-rad-3x-vardar-fans-quick-disconnects-fo

I will have to sell my camera gear

I want to keep my classy for at least 3 years.
Was thinking of a 1070 or a 1080 but the classy is just as good to my eyes..turn down shadows etc...

I wan t keep my temps under 60c


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggression*
> 
> Is the Kraken G10 compatible with the Sapphire RX 480 Nitro?
> 
> I'm interested in purchasing this card and have the bracket left over from a previous build.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Nobody?


----------



## Ultisym

Do you have any shots of the PCB without the cooler off the card? I have a Nitro 380 that it works fine on but clearly they aren't the same animal. you will most likely be fine but some pics would definitely help us help you.


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Do you have any shots of the PCB without the cooler off the card? I have a Nitro 380 that it works fine on but clearly they aren't the same animal. you will most likely be fine but some pics would definitely help us help you.


I have not purchased the card yet. I am trying to figure out if it is compatible prior to doing so...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggression*
> 
> I have not purchased the card yet. I am trying to figure out if it is compatible prior to doing so...


let me see if I can find a shot of the Nitro 380 without the cooler from a review.

Ok I have found several photos but like anything on the internet, you never know if the person posting knows what they are talking about, whether its actually a different MFG than they thought etc. Anyway, The G-10 will fit. But some of the photos show the VRMs etc on the output side of the card vs the rear of the card where the G-10 fan is designed to cool them. So without seeing your GPU with cooler off I couldnt say for sure.


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> let me see if I can find a shot of the Nitro 380 without the cooler from a review.
> 
> Ok I have found several photos but like anything on the internet, you never know if the person posting knows what they are talking about, whether its actually a different MFG than they thought etc. Anyway, The G-10 will fit. But some of the photos show the VRMs etc on the output side of the card vs the rear of the card where the G-10 fan is designed to cool them. So without seeing your GPU with cooler off I couldnt say for sure.


Not sure I follow. Are you saying that the person that uploaded the photo's could be posting them of a completely different GPU?


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I will stand by that. They dump a lot of heat that you really dont want inside the case. There are always exceptions but the majority of the time this mod works best with the fan exhausting air from the case. But you still have to put some effort into the rest of your air circuit and make sure there is good flow through the case.
> How do you have all the fans setup in the case. Size, location, intake or exhaust etc?


Sorry for late reply.

I have 3 Noctua NF-F12 120mm front case fans as intake.

I have 2 Corsair 120mm Red LED fans on the roof attached to a H100i that's cooling my CPU, exhausting out of the vents in the roof.

and i have 1 Corsair 120mm Red LED fan at the rear, attached to my H55 that's attached to my 780Ti.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markob53*
> 
> Sorry for late reply.
> 
> and i have 1 Corsair 120mm Red LED fan at the rear, attached to my H55 that's attached to my 780Ti.


Is this exhausting from the case?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggression*
> 
> Not sure I follow. Are you saying that the person that uploaded the photo's could be posting them of a completely different GPU?


What im saying is I just grabbed pics off the internet CLAIMING to be your card. And yes, people will lie or mis label. stranger things have happened. Thats why I prefer a picture of your actual GPU. I know on the GTX 970, there were models with the VRMs on the front of the PCB and others with the VRMs mounted on the rear of the PCB. Things like this make a difference when trying to cool the GPU.

We need to find a good source for a pic of the PCB for the card your interested in to make the final call. Im 90% sure your good, but there is of course room of error in that 10%


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> What im saying is I just grabbed pics off the internet CLAIMING to be your card. And yes, people will lie or mis label. stranger things have happened. Thats why I prefer a picture of your actual GPU. I know on the GTX 970, there were models with the VRMs on the front of the PCB and others with the VRMs mounted on the rear of the PCB. Things like this make a difference when trying to cool the GPU.
> 
> We need to find a good source for a pic of the PCB for the card your interested in to make the final call. Im 90% sure your good, but there is of course room of error in that 10%


Understood. Im aware of what VRM's are and that they need to be on the side of the 90 mm fan of the bracket. If I could, I would gladly provide you photo's but as was already stated I do not own the card at this point.

Assuming they are on the correct side, is there any additional parts required to fit correctly? Will a shim be needed?


----------



## Ultisym

edit see next post


----------



## Ultisym

Ok

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XV9OGYbiGXE

The VRMs are on the wrong side of the GPU die for the G-10 cooling design to cool them. You can rig up a bracket and fan to work and do the job, but unless you already own it, perhaps another GPU is a better choice if you want to do this mod. The NITRO cooler is actually pretty effective in my opinion.

The GPU is used in my sig rig "Backup Rig, AKA Wifes Computer" if you want to see the specs of that machine. It performs beautifully.


----------



## markob53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Is this exhausting from the case?


Yeah, in push configuration.


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ok
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XV9OGYbiGXE
> 
> The VRMs are on the wrong side of the GPU die for the G-10 cooling design to cool them. You can rig up a bracket and fan to work and do the job, but unless you already own it, perhaps another GPU is a better choice if you want to do this mod. The NITRO cooler is actually pretty effective in my opinion.
> 
> The GPU is used in my sig rig "Backup Rig, AKA Wifes Computer" if you want to see the specs of that machine. It performs beautifully.


I appreciate the reply. That's too bad, I do not support nvidia and I really like the price/performace ratio of this card along with the look. I would also prefer a liquid cooled solution as I hate the noise fans make at high RPM's when under load.


----------



## pullupgass

Hello!

Just signed up on the forums because i need some help









I recently bought a G10 and a Kraken X31 for use on my EVGA 980 TI SC ACX 2.0

Only thing is that i'm quite nervous about mounting it as i need a copper shim (?)

I'm located in the Netherlands and unable to find any copper shim which is able to be sent to my location

Are there any alternatives?


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pullupgass*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> Just signed up on the forums because i need some help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently bought a G10 and a Kraken X31 for use on my EVGA 980 TI SC ACX 2.0
> 
> Only thing is that i'm quite nervous about mounting it as i need a copper shim (?)
> 
> I'm located in the Netherlands and unable to find any copper shim which is able to be sent to my location
> 
> Are there any alternatives?


I think you need the shim if you have a midplate????

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M1330-Copper-Shim-1-6mm-GPU-Heat-Sink/160508577947?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38813%26meid%3D6b16503aff5a4ba093f4c0ea1d06f415%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D160508577749

That's where I got mine from. I have a Classy.

Whats the model number?


----------



## pullupgass

Not sure, but it has a midplate yes.

Thanks for the link, i'll check it out rn!


----------



## Azune

So i finally upgraded my poor old 770 to a MSI Armor OC 1080.

See: http://imgur.com/a/7RXF2

Temps seems fine, at around 55°C during full load.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azune*
> 
> So i finally upgraded my poor old 770 to a MSI Armor OC 1080.
> 
> See: http://imgur.com/a/7RXF2
> 
> Temps seems fine, at around 55°C during full load.


Nice! Bet thats a sweet step up.


----------



## kilogrm70

Do you guys know if the Kraken G10 is compatible with a Sapphire Nitro RX 480? it looks like it might be, but I wanted to hear your thoughts. 
I've included a photo of the PCB.


----------



## Azune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Nice! Bet thats a sweet step up.


Like 3-4 times the performance depending on the game. You could say thats a nice step up


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilogrm70*
> 
> Do you guys know if the Kraken G10 is compatible with a Sapphire Nitro RX 480? it looks like it might be, but I wanted to hear your thoughts.
> I've included a photo of the PCB.


Should work just fine. looks like you already got heatsinks on the VRMs


----------



## bigmac121

OK. bad news, The pump on my H80i started 'clicking'. So I had to take the H90 off my Classy.

The Good news is I will have a : Zotac GTX 1070 AMP extreme brought off MM @ overclockers for £330
Sold my Classy for £260.00 delivered, within minutes. Better news is that the guy is only 30 mins away.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> OK. bad news, The pump on my H80i started 'clicking'. So I had to take the H90 off my Classy.
> 
> The Good news is I will have a : Zotac GTX 1070 AMP extreme brought off MM @ overclockers for £330
> Sold my Classy for £260.00 delivered, within minutes. Better news is that the guy is only 30 mins away.


That worked out great for you.


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> That worked out great for you.


The wife just saw the transactions on mobile banking. It was a scary moment. Now anything over £30 pounds I have to tell her before I buy.








Hell I can live with that. Only one more game to buy this side of xmas, Titanfall 2. All reviews report the AMP hitting 60-65c load. And silent.
I had too many beers last night and saw the e-mail in the morning, saying I got the card in the MM. Time to lay off the beers and start gaming:thumb:


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac121*
> 
> The wife just saw the transactions on mobile banking. It was a scary moment. Now anything over £30 pounds I have to tell her before I buy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hell I can live with that. Only one more game to buy this side of xmas, Titanfall 2. All reviews report the AMP hitting 60-65c load. And silent.
> I had too many beers last night and saw the e-mail in the morning, saying I got the card in the MM. Time to lay off the beers and start gaming:thumb:


HAHA At least you got something worth having out of your drunken rampage. I have a separate account i keep money I make from selling stuff etc. Wife knows about it, just knows its MY slush fund for computers. This way I dont get in trouble with the wife anymore.

Well that and I had to build her a decent computer, see wifes rig in sig.


----------



## bigmac121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> HAHA At least you got something worth having out of your drunken rampage. I have a separate account i keep money I make from selling stuff etc. Wife knows about it, just knows its MY slush fund for computers. This way I dont get in trouble with the wife anymore.
> 
> Well that and I had to build her a decent computer, see wifes rig in sig.


Not bad








I also found out that she cannot see my savings a/c with barclay's! now I can put money in the a/c instead of hiding it under my key board







Mia knows my pin number to my phone. EVERTHING.
She told me she doesn't want anything for Xmas.

This woman will ask me to buy a £2.50 T shirt from ASDA !! (BTW she is Finnish. me I am from Santa Lucia. Born and bred in Peckham SE London)

She is a good gal as most of the Finns I have met. I am lucky to found Mia.


----------



## asdkj1740

is there any one using evga pascal cards???
is evga cooling mid plate blocked the asetek aio mounting???

1080 ftw


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> is there any one using evga pascal cards???
> is evga cooling mid plate blocked the asetek aio mounting???
> 
> 1080 ftw


i finally did this:


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Should work just fine. looks like you already got heatsinks on the VRMs


I don't mean to be rude, but I thought you said the VRM'S where on the wrong side regarding this on the previous page of this thread?


----------



## sandmanza

Hello

I've been scouring the internet to see if my PowerColor Radeon R9 390 PCS+ 8GB will work with the kraken.
I know that a Kraken will fit on it but I am unsure about the VRM cooling.

From PCB comparisons on another site of the 290 and 390 (290 top, 390 below) for this board I can see that the VRM does have its own heat sink.


I would like to use a Corsair H55 + Kraken G10 combo but if my VRM temperatures skyrocket then its all pointless.

Is there anyone that is running this combination ?

Thanks in Advance


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sandmanza*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I've been scouring the internet to see if my PowerColor Radeon R9 390 PCS+ 8GB will work with the kraken.
> I know that a Kraken will fit on it but I am unsure about the VRM cooling.
> 
> From PCB comparisons on another site of the 290 and 390 (290 top, 390 below) for this board I can see that the VRM does have its own heat sink.
> 
> 
> I would like to use a Corsair H55 + Kraken G10 combo but if my VRM temperatures skyrocket then its all pointless.
> 
> Is there anyone that is running this combination ?
> 
> Thanks in Advance


If it is like the GPU in the image above then you will not have a problem installing the G-10. Just make sure the pump gets full power. On the 290 and 390 I would let the fan go full power too, or spring for the adapter that connects the fan to the PWM header on the PCB.


----------



## sandmanza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If it is like the GPU in the image above then you will not have a problem installing the G-10. Just make sure the pump gets full power. On the 290 and 390 I would let the fan go full power too, or spring for the adapter that connects the fan to the PWM header on the PCB.


Hello

Thanks, how loud is the fan at full power ?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sandmanza*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Thanks, how loud is the fan at full power ?


Unfortunately, short of sticking a decibel meter up to it to give you a point of measurement, it is totally subjective.

I did not think it was loud at all. I did replace them with some Nanoxia FX-09 fans which are designed for quieter performance, but it was not due to the noise of the fans on the G-10. It was just part of my overall plan to keep noise down in a system running 3 pumps and 10 fans.


----------



## DVIELIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sandmanza*
> 
> Hello
> Is there anyone that is running this [ R9 390+G10 ] combination ?


I've been running R9 290 + G10 for a few years now (and won't upgrade until either my trusty card dies of it becomes too weak for all the new games, it still hauls strong).
Here's what's up - if the G10 fits the 390 card then you'll have the same pros and cons as we all did with the G10 + 290 combo:
Pros:

Sweet GPU cooling
Looks nice
A lot quieter when upgrading from the stock effing hair dryer they attached to those cards
Cons:

Sort-of mediocre (but not enough) VRM cooling
No VRAM cooling
And here's my experience when dealing with the cons:
You can buy a cooling kit from Gelid, which contains various heatsinks specifically tailored to fit your card VRM components. That kit + G10 fan keeps the VRMs nice & cool
It gets worse with the VRAM as there is no kit to cover all the (16?) chips at once with a single or few heatsinks. You have to buy a pile of generic heatsinks which fits those VRAM chips and sort-of glues onto them with self-adhesive thermal glue-pad-thingy. I had the exact setup for at least 1 year straight without any problems. BUT recently those VRAM heatsinks have been falling off one by one as they are facing downwards all the time and everything holding them on there is just the glue. I've been searching that thermal-self-adhesive-thin-double-tape looking thingy but no avail. I think it's time to do the stock oem heatsink dissection DIY project many people have already done to improve the cooling performance on those cards and you could do that as well. The project basically is about taking the stock blower type cooler, taking the plastic shroud and the fan off, baking the aluminum heatsink until the GPU vapor chamber falls off and cutting a large enough hole to fit your AIO cooler plate. What that does - the plate covers all the VRAM chips + when you mount the G10 on top of it, the G10 fan takes care of the VRM temps (sort of, I guess). My plan is to fit the modified plate + Gelid kit and the G10 for the ultimate cooling.

So I think, if the G10 fits your card, everything I just said could be done to your card as well


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Should work just fine. looks like you already got heatsinks on the VRMs


I don't mean to be rude, but I thought you said the VRM'S where on the wrong side regarding this on the previous page of this thread?


----------



## sandmanza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DVIELIS*
> 
> I've been running R9 290 + G10 for a few years now (and won't upgrade until either my trusty card dies of it becomes too weak for all the new games, it still hauls strong).
> Here's what's up - if the G10 fits the 390 card then you'll have the same pros and cons as we all did with the G10 + 290 combo:
> Pros:
> 
> Sweet GPU cooling
> Looks nice
> A lot quieter when upgrading from the stock effing hair dryer they attached to those cards
> Cons:
> 
> Sort-of mediocre (but not enough) VRM cooling
> No VRAM cooling
> And here's my experience when dealing with the cons:
> You can buy a cooling kit from Gelid, which contains various heatsinks specifically tailored to fit your card VRM components. That kit + G10 fan keeps the VRMs nice & cool
> It gets worse with the VRAM as there is no kit to cover all the (16?) chips at once with a single or few heatsinks. You have to buy a pile of generic heatsinks which fits those VRAM chips and sort-of glues onto them with self-adhesive thermal glue-pad-thingy. I had the exact setup for at least 1 year straight without any problems. BUT recently those VRAM heatsinks have been falling off one by one as they are facing downwards all the time and everything holding them on there is just the glue. I've been searching that thermal-self-adhesive-thin-double-tape looking thingy but no avail. I think it's time to do the stock oem heatsink dissection DIY project many people have already done to improve the cooling performance on those cards and you could do that as well. The project basically is about taking the stock blower type cooler, taking the plastic shroud and the fan off, baking the aluminum heatsink until the GPU vapor chamber falls off and cutting a large enough hole to fit your AIO cooler plate. What that does - the plate covers all the VRAM chips + when you mount the G10 on top of it, the G10 fan takes care of the VRM temps (sort of, I guess). My plan is to fit the modified plate + Gelid kit and the G10 for the ultimate cooling.
> 
> So I think, if the G10 fits your card, everything I just said could be done to your card as well


The card I have has its VRM heatsinks separate to the main one so no kit there, is it basically a showstopper not having the vram heatsinks as it would take a few months to get them from where I am.

Reason being the following page has thermal imaging (different card but still includes ram)
https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/NZXT-Kraken-G10-Review-527/


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggression*
> 
> I don't mean to be rude, but I thought you said the VRM'S where on the wrong side regarding this on the previous page of this thread?


On some GPUS they are. The picture I was just referring to, they are on the back of the die instead of the output side.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sandmanza*
> 
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/NZXT-Kraken-G10-Review-527/


Im not sure how that could of been any kind of revelation to those reviewers running Furmark with no heatsink on the VRMs at all. The load simulated by Furmark is not realistic. I only use that program for brick testing.



As for the VRAM , looking at those thermal images the VRAM appears to be cooled better than the stock heatsink/fan even without heatsinks on for the AMD and the NVIDIA GPUs tested. The exception appears to be the 4 VRAM chips on the Titan which are located closest to the VRMs.


----------



## sandmanza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im not sure how that could of been any kind of revelation to those reviewers running Furmark with no heatsink on the VRMs at all. The load simulated by Furmark is not realistic. I only use that program for brick testing.
> 
> 
> 
> As for the VRAM , looking at those thermal images the VRAM appears to be cooled better than the stock heatsink/fan even without heatsinks on for the AMD and the NVIDIA GPUs tested. The exception appears to be the 4 VRAM chips on the Titan which are located closest to the VRMs.


Probably find the memory being so close to the GPU on the heat sink that it was having a negative impact on them, however if the card manufacturer didn't hook up the memory to the heat sink it would get zero airflow.

With kraken GPU heat obviously isnt a issue to memory.

At least thats my best guess.


----------



## DVIELIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sandmanza*
> 
> The card I have has its VRM heatsinks separate to the main one so no kit there, is it basically a showstopper not having the vram heatsinks as it would take a few months to get them from where I am.
> 
> Reason being the following page has thermal imaging (different card but still includes ram)
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/NZXT-Kraken-G10-Review-527/


I double checked your post and noticed one thing - your card is made by PowerColor.
Here's a quote from the NZXT site:
Quote:


> The compatibility list is based on AMD Radeon and NVIDIA's *reference board layout*, screw spacing and die height only.


So my guess is that your card isn't compatible with the G10 bracket unless the mounting points (screw holes) have an exact match with the ones on the reference 390.
As for the VRM heatsinks - separate ones means that you are already golden - you wouldn't have to buy any kit to cool the VRM off.
So basically - check if your PowerColor card has the same screw holes as the reference 390. If not - you can forget about the G10 unless you are ok with some diy fabricating a mounting point relocation bracket(s) action


----------



## sandmanza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DVIELIS*
> 
> I double checked your post and noticed one thing - your card is made by PowerColor.
> Here's a quote from the NZXT site:
> So my guess is that your card isn't compatible with the G10 bracket unless the mounting points (screw holes) have an exact match with the ones on the reference 390.
> As for the VRM heatsinks - separate ones means that you are already golden - you wouldn't have to buy any kit to cool the VRM off.
> So basically - check if your PowerColor card has the same screw holes as the reference 390. If not - you can forget about the G10 unless you are ok with some diy fabricating a mounting point relocation bracket(s) action


I posted the picture because its compatible with the powercolor 290 pcs+ which has identicle m
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DVIELIS*
> 
> I double checked your post and noticed one thing - your card is made by PowerColor.
> Here's a quote from the NZXT site:
> So my guess is that your card isn't compatible with the G10 bracket unless the mounting points (screw holes) have an exact match with the ones on the reference 390.
> As for the VRM heatsinks - separate ones means that you are already golden - you wouldn't have to buy any kit to cool the VRM off.
> So basically - check if your PowerColor card has the same screw holes as the reference 390. If not - you can forget about the G10 unless you are ok with some diy fabricating a mounting point relocation bracket(s) action


Hi

I am taking a bit of a gamble on googling extensively I have seen posts about the Kraken being installed on the Powercolor PCS+ 290 which from what I can see is identicle in mounting points to the Powercolor PCS+ 390



In addition I read another post where a person asked powercolor if the 390 they used was a reference PCB and compatible with the Kraken, Powercolor Said that it is a reference PCB but not compatible with the Kraken (This was before it got listed by NZXT as compatible with reference) and thirdly there is a craiglist post of a powercolor pcs+ 390 being sold with a kraken g10 equipped.

So the combination of visual similarity, the trend of using very similar board layouts, bits and pieces of information and how much the noise annoys me I am willing to give it a go.

Edit: I mailed the craigslist guy and he responded saying he had no problems, on monday or tuesday I'll get a chance to see for myself.


----------



## sandmanza

Powercolor PCS+ R390 8GB Compatability Confirmed

H55 Fan Replacement: Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition @ Max Speed
Kraken G10 Fan: Max Speed
Positioning: Behind CPU in Exhaust Configuration
Noise Levels: Silent

I know positioning isn't ideal at all but its the only place it would fit and my cpu isnt water cooled.


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> On some GPUS they are. The picture I was just referring to, they are on the back of the die instead of the output side.


So the exact same model of card can have different PCB layouts?


----------



## HAL900

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puN1YgvgUtQ&feature=youtu.be

Good Kraken


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggression*
> 
> So the exact same model of card can have different PCB layouts?


Vendors can and sometimes do generate custom PCBs for their version of a particular model of graphic card. The changes do not usually make a lot of difference for the purposes of modifying cooling. But it can, for example, on the GTX 970 you can find versions with the VRMs on the output side of the die and others with the VRMs on the rear of the card which is a more typical location for cards this size. The VRMs being on the output side of the Die means you have to get a little creative making sure there is enough air flow over the VRMs.


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Vendors can and sometimes do generate custom PCBs for their version of a particular model of graphic card. The changes do not usually make a lot of difference for the purposes of modifying cooling. But it can, for example, on the GTX 970 you can find versions with the VRMs on the output side of the die and others with the VRMs on the rear of the card which is a more typical location for cards this size. The VRMs being on the output side of the Die means you have to get a little creative making sure there is enough air flow over the VRMs.


But this is the exact same vendor in this case, Sapphire.

I asked if the Sapphire Nitro RX 480 is compatible with the Kraken G10 and you said you found a photo of the PCB from a reliable source and the VRM's where on the wrong side.

Then on the next page someone else asks the exact same question regarding the exact same card and provides a picture and you tell them it's fine.

So at this point I'm confused as you have provided two conflicting answers.

I'm not comparing an EVGA RX 480 to an MSI RX 480. We both asked about the exact same Sapphire Nitro RX 480 card.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggression*
> 
> But this is the exact same vendor in this case, Sapphire.
> 
> I asked if the Sapphire Nitro RX 480 is compatible with the Kraken G10 and you said you found a photo of the PCB from a reliable source and the VRM's where on the wrong side.
> 
> Then on the next page someone else asks the exact same question regarding the exact same card and provides a picture and you tell them it's fine.
> 
> .


Give me the exact post numbers you are referring too.


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Give me the exact post numbers you are referring too.


Its on the last 2 pages...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggression*
> 
> Its on the last 2 pages...


The link I posted clearly referred to a 380 and the one in that link, the one it posted did have the VRMs on the output side.

The next picture someone posted was a 480 and the VRMs are clearly on the back side of the die.

Im not sure what the issue is unless you didnt read or look at the video posted. The video was about a nitro 380. I also referred to some other images I saw. This is why it is best to pull YOUR GPU cooler off and look at it. So there is no guess work and you do not have to rely on random pictures found on the internet.


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The link I posted clearly referred to a 380 and the one in that link, the one it posted did have the VRMs on the output side.
> 
> The next picture someone posted was a 480 and the VRMs are clearly on the back side of the die.
> 
> Im not sure what the issue is unless you didnt read or look at the video posted. The video was about a nitro 380. I also referred to some other images I saw. This is why it is best to pull YOUR GPU cooler off and look at it. So there is no guess work and you do not have to rely on random pictures found on the internet.


Well, I'm not sure why you went looking for a 380 when I was asking about a 480. Somewhere the communication must have been mixed. As was stated earlier, I do not own a 480 at this time. I was inquiring because I'm interested in purchasing one but it's compatibility with the G10 bracket that I already own will decide this. As much as I would like to streamline this process, making a blind purchase only to pull off the cooler to find out it will not suit my needs and then dealing with the headache of an RMA process is not what I would consider ideal.

Either way, I appreciate your time in this matter. Based on the PCB posted just recently by another poster of the Sapphire RX 480 Nitro, can you please confirm if your earlier comment is accurate?

I've been trying to get a straight answer for over a month now and keep getting directed to this forum thread.

Thanks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggression*
> 
> Well, I'm not sure why you went looking for a 380 when I was asking about a 480. Somewhere the communication must have been mixed. As was stated earlier, I do not own a 480 at this time. I was inquiring because I'm interested in purchasing one but it's compatibility with the G10 bracket that I already own will decide this. As much as I would like to streamline this process, making a blind purchase only to pull off the cooler to find out it will not suit my needs and then dealing with the headache of an RMA process is not what I would consider ideal.
> 
> Either way, I appreciate your time in this matter. Based on the PCB posted just recently by another poster of the Sapphire RX 480 Nitro, can you please confirm if your earlier comment is accurate?
> 
> I've been trying to get a straight answer for over a month now and keep getting directed to this forum thread.
> 
> Thanks.


Lets do this, to assure no confusion. Post the image again here.


----------



## Mister300

Have you all seen the new Kraken line of AIO's? Hope they fit the G10 bracket. The infinity lighting effect is gorgeous.


----------



## Aggression

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Lets do this, to assure no confusion. Post the image again here.


According to this guy, this is the PCB:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilogrm70*
> 
> Do you guys know if the Kraken G10 is compatible with a Sapphire Nitro RX 480? it looks like it might be, but I wanted to hear your thoughts.
> I've included a photo of the PCB.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggression*
> 
> According to this guy, this is the PCB:




VRMs in red. Should be an excellent candidate for the G-10.


----------



## CampinPowerJL

This might have been asked before, but does the G10 work with MSI 1070 Gaming X? The PCB looks exactly like the Armor variant and I've seen someone do it on that card. Any additional things I need to get for it?


----------



## partypoison25

Works perfect. can leave the whole midplate on too.


----------



## CampinPowerJL

Thanks for replying! How about copper shim? Do I need to get it and what dimensions?


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CampinPowerJL*
> 
> Thanks for replying! How about copper shim? Do I need to get it and what dimensions?


Nope, not needed at all. Can leave the cards backplate on too.


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CampinPowerJL*
> 
> Thanks for replying! How about copper shim? Do I need to get it and what dimensions?


Nope, not needed at all. Can leave the cards backplate on too.


----------



## willegard

GTX 970 with a Kraken G10 and Corsair H55
Running at 1.275mV
Core at 1601
Mem at 4001

Hitting 69-70 Degrees (celsius) on 100%load.
Fan on H55 at 60% (980 rpm (Noctua fan)

Feels a bit hot, what do you guys think?

(I have an extra cutout with a fan blowing constantly towards the VRM's)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willegard*
> 
> GTX 970 with a Kraken G10 and Corsair H55
> Running at 1.275mV
> Core at 1601
> Mem at 4001
> 
> Hitting 69-70 Degrees (celsius) on 100%load.
> Fan on H55 at 60% (980 rpm (Noctua fan)
> 
> Feels a bit hot, what do you guys think?
> 
> (I have an extra cutout with a fan blowing constantly towards the VRM's)


Is this one of the 970s with the VRMs located on the output side of the card?
What are the temps with the fan running at higher RPMs?
Which Noctua fan is it?
Is the fan on the radiator exhausting air from the case or set to intake?
What temp is your CPU seeing?

Im sure i can think of more questions, but lets start there?









Just to add. In the 1600 Core speed range you can expect a bit higher temps from my experience. But that does seem a little higher than it should be.


----------



## willegard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Is this one of the 970s with the VRMs located on the output side of the card?
> What are the temps with the fan running at higher RPMs?
> Which Noctua fan is it?
> Is the fan on the radiator exhausting air from the case or set to intake?
> What temp is your CPU seeing?
> 
> Im sure i can think of more questions, but lets start there?


Allright, let's start!
This is one of those cards, yes.
Fan at 100%, Highest I hit is 61.
Fan on H55 is Noctua NF-F12.
The fan is Intake at the moment, although I have tried both ways.
My CPU is fine, 58-59 under load.
It's an i7-4790 (NON-k) with an TX3 Evo..

Thanks!

EDIT: 61, not 51.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willegard*
> 
> Allright, let's start!
> This is one of those cards, yes.
> Fan at 100%, Highest I hit is 61.
> Fan on H55 is Noctua NF-F12.
> The fan is Intake at the moment, although I have tried both ways.
> My CPU is fine, 58-59 under load.
> It's an i7-4790 (NON-k) with an TX3 Evo..
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: 61, not 51.


When you did your testing, How long did you leave it at full load? Was it long enough for heat saturation to reach equilibrium with the rest of the components or just a 5 or 10 minute run?
What are your temps while playing your average game, whatever that might be?
What was the difference in temp between running the H55 fan on intake and exhaust?
Noctua NF-F12 is a good fan, you may consider adding a second in push pull config to get you a couple degrees C more.
In your opinion, does that case have pretty good air circulation?
Are you running a fan blowing directly on the VRMs ? The heat from those will saturate over to the die quickly if not kept in check. Dont want to burn them up either.

Sorry so brief. On phone and I suck at texting


----------



## willegard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> When you did your testing, How long did you leave it at full load? Was it long enough for heat saturation to reach equilibrium with the rest of the components or just a 5 or 10 minute run?
> What are your temps while playing your average game, whatever that might be?
> What was the difference in temp between running the H55 fan on intake and exhaust?
> Noctua NF-F12 is a good fan, you may consider adding a second in push pull config to get you a couple degrees C more.
> In your opinion, does that case have pretty good air circulation?
> Are you running a fan blowing directly on the VRMs ? The heat from those will saturate over to the die quickly if not kept in check. Dont want to burn them up either.
> 
> Sorry so brief. On phone and I suck at texting


I've done lots of testing to get this OC stable.
It's also a custom Bios.

The stability runs go for 2-4 hours. And I take the highest number the temps reached.

Average temps on GPU whilst gaming is 65-68 with peaks on 69-70.
Intake vs exhaust difference was around 2 degrees. Lower on this configuration.

My case only has one "exhaust", with a Corsair fan constantly running pretty high rpm's.
The design of the case is... Stupid to say the least.

I've actually tried the H55 with push-pull whilst it was on exhaust. This was also before I added/got the TX3 for the CPU..

Yes, The sidepanel has a "Honeycomb" cutout and theres a 140mm fan blowing Straight onto the "Side" of the GPU.

Thank you.

You've given me an idea on something to test!

I'll get back on the push pull H55-game, and set it to exhaust.
With the TX3 the heat from the CPU should not reach "down" to the H55.

I'll update tomorrow with some pictures of the layout, hopefully you can give me some inputs then.

Again, thank you very very much!


----------



## wellkevi01

This may be a long shot, but does anyone have the screws for a Sapphire 290/x Tri-X cooler? I'm putting the stock cooler back on my 290X 8GB, becasue it died and I need to RMA it. It seems I have lost 5 of the screws that hold the cooler to the PCB. I think the screws from a reference Sapphire 290/x will also work, but I'm not 100% sure about that. I've scoured the internet, and even my local hardware store, but I've come up empty. I even contacted Sapphire support, but they say they can't send out just screws.

These are the ones I need-> http://i.imgur.com/jqKiWEt.jpg

So if you can help me out, just shoot me a message. Thank you in advance.


----------



## Outcasst

Does the original H100 work with this?


----------



## CampinPowerJL

Only coolers with the circular block will fit


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Does the original H100 work with this?


The bracket will fit the round ASETEK pumps like in the attached image


----------



## Outcasst

Just finished setting this up on my 1080 and a H55. Very, very pleased. Maximum temperature I've seen is around 50c compared to 86c on the stock cooler which was on 100% fan speed.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Does the original H100 work with this?


No that will not. That's a CoolIt block, the G10 only works with Asetek block/pumps. There _are_ however, ways to use a CoolIt Block, though it's a bit harder...

I don't think there's an easy way to do the ol' zip-tie mod (like you can also do with Asetek pumps) but what you can do with the CoolIt block is get a bracket for it.

There's one here, you pretty much have to import it from UK unless you can make/devise your own bracket solution (which some people who are good at metalwork have done):
http://chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=64_119&product_id=1928

Note that with something like that you'll be able to mount your block to the GPU but you will have to figure out something to use a fan and/or heatsinks to cool the VRM/FETs on your graphics card

You should also have a look at this other thread on OCN, check out the section in the OP about brackets.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1479716/guide-closed-loop-aio-coolers-on-your-gpu-warning-picture-heavy


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Here's a question... Has anyone successfully used two G10 brackets for CF/SLI with the two cards in slots beside each other (like not directly beside each other, but one slot away--i.e. dual slot for one card then the next card)?

I've started in on this project recently with an R9 280 and an HD 7950... It seems the cards _will_ fit side by side like that with the G10 sandwiched but the 92mm fan hits the back of the second GPU making it not work. The weird thing is the bottom of the fan hits the card but the top seems like it has plenty of room. I even tried "swaying" the card in the slot but nothing. Odd because you think the card would be in a straight line but then maybe it is and the G10 isn't exactly straight/true?

So I ordered an ID cooling slim 92mm fan which should work out fine I think, just have to see whether the fan is powerful enough to cool the VRM properly on at least one card (I can always switch card positions). The ID cooling fan seems to be one of the few slim 92mm fans out there that isn't insanely expensive (I'm looking at _you_, Noctua). The outer card will be okay with a full size 92mm fan as I'm modding the case a little bit so there will be plenty of room on that side. I actually was thinking I'd have to cut the top part (with the NZXT logo) of the G10 off, to make it fit like that, but it seems like it will work without doing that. I was also worried the same top part would block the power connectors on the adjacent card but it seems like those will be accessible too.

Right now both cards are just sitting in there on their stock/air coolers. The inside card gets pretty hot during gaming due to being blocked by the card beside it. But this project seems going so far so good, I'm just waiting for shims (both my Tahitis seem to need those--not all do but both mine do) and the fan to come in the mail. I'm actually going to splice two Asetek block/pumps together on a 240mm rad to cool the two GPUs. A bit of a project so wish me luck, lol!


----------



## Ultisym

Ive run three sets of GPUs side by side with the same brackets and same coolers now. As for the "curve" did you perhaps overtighten the screws holding the pump on and warp the PCB a little bit? Not saying you did, but I have seen it before. You should be able to make it work.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Ive run three sets of GPUs side by side with the same brackets and same coolers now. As for the "curve" did you perhaps overtighten the screws holding the pump on and warp the PCB a little bit? Not saying you did, but I have seen it before. You should be able to make it work.


Interesting. No yeah the cards aren't bent, I mean I haven't tried to measure with any kind of straight edge or instrument but they seem fairly fine visually. Maybe it's just when they are installed in the board/case it ends up that way. I know from experience that things are typically not perfectly in straight lines in PCs, despite the board being made that way, and the case being made that way, it never seems to work out perfectly in reality with expansion cards.

I only had the block/pump/bracket on there temporarily to check for fitment, it definitely wasn't overtightened but the lack of a shim did make for higher temps than it should have been, I know that much. It's been returned to the stock cooler for now (as a side note I should mention XFX went nuts with the damn thermal paste on that card, someone should be given a talking to at the plant loll; after repasting _properly_ the temps improved a bit just with the air cooler.)

This is going in a Silverstone SG03, on a Gigabyte Z97MX-Gaming5 board. I would have taken pics of how the cards line up in there but too late now. One card is an XFX R9 280 TDFD, the other is a Gigabyte HD 7950 rev 1.0 (without VRM cooling! but I added sinks myself







). I tried for quite a while different angles and such and slightly moving the cards in the slots to get them both in there but the bottom of the G10's fan just kept colliding with the Gigabyte card. I wonder if the G10 bracket itself isn't straight? Obviously I have two of them but I didn't think to try the other one to see--damn, maybe I'll try that once I get the shims (those will arrive before the ID cooling fan from China).

Do you have pics of yours together like that? I looked at your profile but don't see any pics there. I'll have to fiddle around with it more once those shims come in--I also have to splice the Aseteks together too, seems like it will be a fun time trying to bleed them but yeah this is much cheaper than going the custom loop route.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Okay, quick update... I just put the two brackets on a table to check and yes the one I was using _is_ slightly bent. I mean it's very subtle, probably like a mm or two on the edge that isn't flat against the table but the other one is not like that. The "bent" one I got used so not sure if that happened with the previous owner or if it came from the factory like that--the bracket doesn't seem like an easy thing to bend like that as it's pretty solid.

I'm not even sure if that slight imperfection could cause it to hit the other card but I will definitely try the more straight one when I get a chance--if you say they _should_ fit side by side, then maybe that's all I need to do. Might not have needed to order that fan after all!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Okay, quick update... I just put the two brackets on a table to check and yes the one I was using _is_ slightly bent. I mean it's very subtle, probably like a mm or two on the edge that isn't flat against the table but the other one is not like that. The "bent" one I got used so not sure if that happened with the previous owner or if it came from the factory like that--the bracket doesn't seem like an easy thing to bend like that as it's pretty solid.
> 
> I'm not even sure if that slight imperfection could cause it to hit the other card but I will definitely try the more straight one when I get a chance--if you say they _should_ fit side by side, then maybe that's all I need to do. Might not have needed to order that fan after all!


Im not criticizing your setup or your install skills mind you, just saying you should be able to mount them Side by side. Ive had some pretty expensive cards that sagged a little when installed just due to gravity i guess so yeah it wouldnt be unusual for you to have a little sag on it without having done anything or have a damaged GPU. It could be the slot on the board as well, a lot of the new mainboards are reinforced to prevent this very thing and of course damage to the slots due to heavy GPUs. If the G-10 bracket is bent a little, just bend it back. They are nice solid brackets and that should be no problem. The difference in temps between the two is only a couple degrees C in this configuration and like you, with the factory coolers i experienced a much higher temp on the one card.

As for pics of my setup, sure i will get you one this weekend if you want, just remind me. i do not have glamour shots on my profile because I have entirely too much in my case and while my air circuit and temps are outstanding, it really isnt much to look at. I installed everything neatly, ran the wires well etc, I just really like gadgets and have way more installed in this case than I should. The 280MM radiator for the the CPU is actually installed on the inside top of the case with the fans mounted externally on top of the case. Both the 140mm radiators for the GPUs are mounted on the removable side panel, again with the fans mounted outside. Now I didnt do it ghetto, i installed grills, wire loom, etc and intake filters for the 280mm radiator fans. It looks fine in my opinion but its not a show piece.There is just a lot going on in my rig. I really should get a bigger case suited to what I do with this rig. Even now I have a nice Soundblaster Z card I would love to install, but I simply have no room left.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im not criticizing your setup or your install skills mind you, just saying you should be able to mount them Side by side.


Oh yeah no worries I didn't take it that way. It's just good to know that it _should_ work. Because when I'm testing I have the case horizontal (it would usually be vertical) I don't think card sag is really the problem. Plus both cards seem pretty solid/rigid. The Gigabyte doesn't have a backplate but it has what I'd call an "edge plate" which really gives it backplate-like rigidity. The XFX has neither but the front plate on it (that sits underneath the stock heatsink assy) give it a good amount of rigidity as well. I think I'm going to try to use the other bracket first and test-fit. Since that one is more straight, maybe that's the whole issue.

The reason I asked the question in the first place is because I was talking about it on another forum not long ago and some guy insisted that it wouldn't work without a third slot between them*. Even suggested exactly as I said, it could be done but only with a slim fan _and_ I'd probably have to shear the top part off the bracket with a grinder. When I tried it on a test-fit in reality, it seemed a lot less complicated. Gives me a little more confidence to know you've done it and it works







Just now gotta see if it was the slightly out of true bracket that made the fan hit in my case.

*I think some people just figure some things "impossible" even though they've never tried it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> As for pics of my setup, sure i will get you one this weekend if you want, just remind me.


Cool thanks, will try to!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> The 280MM radiator for the the CPU is actually installed on the inside top of the case with the fans mounted externally on top of the case. Both the 140mm radiators for the GPUs are mounted on the removable side panel, again with the fans mounted outside. Now I didnt do it ghetto, i installed grills, wire loom, etc and intake filters for the 280mm radiator fans. It looks fine in my opinion but its not a show piece.There is just a lot going on in my rig. I really should get a bigger case suited to what I do with this rig. Even now I have a nice Soundblaster Z card I would love to install, but I simply have no room left.


Ah I see what case is this in? And holy crap you _do_ have a crazy amount of stuff in there, lol! I could never fit those kind of rads in the SG03 haha. I actually modified it (cut a hole) to fit a 120mm rad up top, which cools the CPU (Antec Kuhler 620). The 120mm rad is so perfectly in there that the cables for my BD drive are exactly right up against the rad! The front grille is slightly modded and can fit a 240mm x 27mm rad but that's it (hence why I have to splice two Aseteks on one rad to make it work). With the 240mm in front, I can't actually fit a lower fan on it because the GPUs are too long. Not even a thin 120mm will fit I don't think, with the rad there, so it'll be cooled with just one fan. I actually had this setup working before but I had a slightly shorter single GPU (it was a limited production XFX 7950 with custom PCB which made it nearly 2" shorter than other 7950s). But I had to RMA that card (got the R9 280 in return) so I had to take that all apart. Now I'm trying it all over again lol. I do have larger cases this could be done in but I'm trying to retain this case as I like it the best of my cases for this use (living room/HTPC).

It's hard to believe you have so much in there you can't fit the SB though! That is indeed a crazy lot of stuff.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Oh yeah no worries I didn't take it that way. It's just good to know that it _should_ work. Because when I'm testing I have the case horizontal (it would usually be vertical) I don't think card sag is really the problem. Plus both cards seem pretty solid/rigid. The Gigabyte doesn't have a backplate but it has what I'd call an "edge plate" which really gives it backplate-like rigidity. The XFX has neither but the front plate on it (that sits underneath the stock heatsink assy) give it a good amount of rigidity as well. I think I'm going to try to use the other bracket first and test-fit. Since that one is more straight, maybe that's the whole issue.
> 
> The reason I asked the question in the first place is because I was talking about it on another forum not long ago and some guy insisted that it wouldn't work without a third slot between them*. Even suggested exactly as I said, it could be done but only with a slim fan _and_ I'd probably have to shear the top part off the bracket with a grinder. When I tried it on a test-fit in reality, it seemed a lot less complicated. Gives me a little more confidence to know you've done it and it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just now gotta see if it was the slightly out of true bracket that made the fan hit in my case.
> 
> *I think some people just figure some things "impossible" even though they've never tried it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool thanks, will try to!
> Ah I see what case is this in? And holy crap you _do_ have a crazy amount of stuff in there, lol! I could never fit those kind of rads in the SG03 haha. I actually modified it (cut a hole) to fit a 120mm rad up top, which cools the CPU (Antec Kuhler 620). The 120mm rad is so perfectly in there that the cables for my BD drive are exactly right up against the rad! The front grille is slightly modded and can fit a 240mm x 27mm rad but that's it (hence why I have to splice two Aseteks on one rad to make it work). With the 240mm in front, I can't actually fit a lower fan on it because the GPUs are too long. Not even a thin 120mm will fit I don't think, with the rad there, so it'll be cooled with just one fan. I actually had this setup working before but I had a slightly shorter single GPU (it was a limited production XFX 7950 with custom PCB which made it nearly 2" shorter than other 7950s). But I had to RMA that card (got the R9 280 in return) so I had to take that all apart. Now I'm trying it all over again lol. I do have larger cases this could be done in but I'm trying to retain this case as I like it the best of my cases for this use (living room/HTPC).
> 
> It's hard to believe you have so much in there you can't fit the SB though! That is indeed a crazy lot of stuff.


Its a Corsair 400R. Nice enough case, ive just packed it full. When I initially started fooling with the NZXT brackets i was using a Corsair 200R (This was the setup then http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5534117) That was almost hilarious cramming all that stuff in there. I didnt have as much as now, but I had a lot even then. This setup had a nice pair of GTX 770s complete with backplates and these cards actually sagged a little which is why i mentioned it as a possibility for part of your issue. They worked beautifully, just sagged a little but there was no interference with the fans or anything. I went to the 970s before moving on. did switch to the 400R somewhere in this time frame. IIRC, the Son took the system and the 200R and I moved to the 400R around this time.. I guess this is why im having a hard time picturing your issue. (The 400R has had the 4790k/Z97 Sabertooth and then 6700k/Maximus 8 Hero systems, most of the other equipment has bled over into the X99 setup I run now with some additions).

Do you have any pics? The fact that you are having a little bit of a problem just reinforces the fact that every install is a little different. But i feel certain we can make this work for you.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Its a Corsair 400R. Nice enough case, ive just packed it full. When I initially started fooling with the NZXT brackets i was using a Corsair 200R (This was the setup then http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5534117) That was almost hilarious cramming all that stuff in there. I didnt have as much as now, but I had a lot even then.


Yeah seems like you like to buy things in pairs hahaha--2 GPUs, 2 identical SSDs, 2 identical HDDs, 2...well 3 identical monitors. The funny thing about the 200R is it's obviously smaller than the 400R but they actually call the 200R "compact"--to me it's huge lol. I have an NZXT S340 on one build and though I love that case, to me it's a monster! I realise it too is considered "small" for ATX but compared to all my other cases (five mATX, one ITX) the thing is gi-normous xD I've been using mATX a _long_ time (since before most people were, back in the PIII days) and the S340 is actually my first full ATX case...since, well I think ever. I mean I've made a bunch of ATX builds for other people, but never had one myself.

It is of course a challenge at times to get stuff into the small cases, but that's part of the fun







I think you probably have a similar situation but on a larger scale--trying to get all of your stuff into those cases.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> Do you have any pics? The fact that you are having a little bit of a problem just reinforces the fact that every install is a little different. But i feel certain we can make this work for you.


I only have the old pics of my SG03, from when I first started putting the rads in (when it had the short 7950 in there and both rads--was definitely *packed* and now it's going to have more stuff in there lol). I won't be able to get new pics (and pics of the current install issue) until I have at it again--like you perhaps on the weekend. I did get those shims in the mail yesterday but probably won't have time today or tomorrow to get back into the case. It's confidence inspiring though to hear it should work beside each other like that







I'm hopeful it'll work out as you say.


----------



## mabeosuna82

Hi

I`ve following this thread and decided to sign up.

Will share the photoso of my G10 installation.


----------



## anonymouse0314

If I want a GTX 1070, should I go for the cheapest card available? If not, what is my best option if I am going to replacing the cooler with the Kraken G10 and a corsair H55?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anonymouse0314*
> 
> If I want a GTX 1070, should I go for the cheapest card available? If not, what is my best option if I am going to replacing the cooler with the Kraken G10 and a corsair H55?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


For the G-10, the easiest and best way is to look at reviews etc and make sure that the VRMs have a heatsink that is attached to the PCB itself and not integrated into the removable cooler. Thats obviously the easiest way, i say best because thats typically (But im sure there are exceptions) a good sign of a quality VRM component. Its not a fool proof way mind you, but it is an good way to narrow down the choices to make life easy for you on the conversion and get a good overclock too. Even cooled with water, the VRMs are a huge part of whether you get a good overclock or not. Sorry if that seems remedial, i do not know your expertise level on the subject.


----------



## madmeatballs

What memory chip heatsinks do you guys use? I currently use the black AKASA heatsinks(what ek sells) but some of the heatsinks have bad adhesive. What adhesive did you guys use on your heatsinks?


----------



## Ultisym

Keep in mind you do not have to put heat sinks on the VRAM, just the VRM. But it certainly wont hurt anything to add them unless they fall off and create an issue. That said, i used these

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708009&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-VGA+Cooling-_-N82E16835708009&gclid=CMCvopKAldECFQwTgQodFP0N6Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

Copper is the better material to use but the aluminum sinks are easier to keep on the chips.I used the adhesive they came with, just cleaned the chip surface well and put them on and waited 24 hours for the adhesive to set.


----------



## Boorock

Anyone selling the Kraken G10 Bracket only ?
I don't need the fan nor the fancy backplate.
Just the G10 & screw set to be mounted on the Sapphire Nitro AMD R9 380X 4GB with a Corsair H75.
PM me if interested. Cheers


----------



## Krgwow

980 Ti G1 here with one fan broken
I have a Kraken G10 and a Corsair H55 here to install
Do i really need to install VRM heatsinks? if i buy a pretty good 92MM cooler will be enough?

I do overclock memory and core... even change my Bios.

If i have to buy heatsinks i will have to wait at least one week to arrive... currently using HD Graphics 530


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krgwow*
> 
> 980 Ti G1 here with one fan broken
> I have a Kraken G10 and a Corsair H55 here to install
> Do i really need to install VRM heatsinks? if i buy a pretty good 92MM cooler will be enough?
> 
> I do overclock memory and core... even change my Bios.
> 
> If i have to buy heatsinks i will have to wait at least one week to arrive... currently using HD Graphics 530


Does the VRM heatsink mount on to the PCB or is it built into the cooler?


----------



## Krgwow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Does the VRM heatsink mount on to the PCB or is it built into the cooler?


It's built in the cooler, unfortunately...
But, it has a nice backplate that i'm pretty sure it can be there when i install the Kraken... i did it before on my other 980 Ti a while ago
What do you think?

a 92MM Noctua fan blowing the VRMs and that backplate should be enough?


----------



## Krgwow

anyone? gonna have to decide something on monday


----------



## Ultisym

Try to find a VRM heatsink you can put on and have plenty of air blowing over it and you should be fine.


----------



## Krgwow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Try to find a VRM heatsink you can put on and have plenty of air blowing over it and you should be fine.


bought a Noctua NF-F12 Industrial 3000 120x120x25 for the Corsair H55
and a Noctua NF-A9 - 92mm for the VRMs

bought aswell

Alphacool GPU Heatsinks 15x15mm - black 10 Stk
Alphacool GPU Heatsinks 7x7mm - black 10 Stk.
and
Akasa AK-TT12-80 Thermal Adhesive Tape
and last but not least
GELID GC Extreme Thermal Compound for the core

I'm fine now, right?


----------



## Pro289

I got an "Asus Radeon R9 280 3GB DirectCU II". NZXT's website says it's not compatible. Is that true?

I have the video card, Kraken G10, and a Corsair H90. But I don't want to tear apart the video card if it won't work anyway.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pro289*
> 
> I got an "Asus Radeon R9 280 3GB DirectCU II". NZXT's website says it's not compatible. Is that true?
> 
> I have the video card, Kraken G10, and a Corsair H90. But I don't want to tear apart the video card if it won't work anyway.


https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/R9_280X_Direct_Cu_II_TOP/images/cooler2.jpg

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/R9_280X_Direct_Cu_II_TOP/images/cooler3.jpg

These are images of the 280X, I couldnt find any shots of the 280 without the cooler on to make sure. If its build is similar to the 280X shown, the G-10 should work fine.

See if you can find any pictures of the 280 nonx with the cooler removed.


----------



## Pro289

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/R9_280X_Direct_Cu_II_TOP/images/cooler2.jpg
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/R9_280X_Direct_Cu_II_TOP/images/cooler3.jpg
> 
> These are images of the 280X, I couldnt find any shots of the 280 without the cooler on to make sure. If its build is similar to the 280X shown, the G-10 should work fine.
> 
> See if you can find any pictures of the 280 nonx with the cooler removed.


The closest I found is: https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/R9280DC2T3GD5/



And this one, not it's the Strix OC version: https://www.asus.com/fr/Graphics-Cards/STRIXR9280OC3GD5/



I think I found one: http://www.ghateat.com/asus-r9280-dc2t-3gd5
Although someone else refers to the same image and calls it a 280x. :/
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=382341



The 280 seems to be the bastard child everyone's trying to forget.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pro289*
> 
> The closest I found is: https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/R9280DC2T3GD5/
> 
> 
> 
> And this one, not it's the Strix OC version: https://www.asus.com/fr/Graphics-Cards/STRIXR9280OC3GD5/
> 
> 
> 
> I think I found one: http://www.ghateat.com/asus-r9280-dc2t-3gd5
> Although someone else refers to the same image and calls it a 280x. :/
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=382341
> 
> 
> 
> The 280 seems to be the bastard child everyone's trying to forget.


All these images show the PCB with the VRM heat sink mounted to it which is excellent for the G-10 conversion. If such is the case, the G-10 install should be a breeze. In the STRIX line up, as far as I have seen, only the triple fan coolers have had the VRM heatsink in the removable cooler. You should be fine. Cant offer a guarantee though all the STRIX GPUs, two 970s and two 980s and even the two Direct CU II (predecessor to STRIX) 770s have had the VRM sink on the PCB. You could always return it if its not what you wanted.


----------



## wiseguy109

Is the Kraken G10 compatible with the new Kraken X42, X52 and X62 coolers? They're Asetek coolers so I would think they are but on NZXT's site the X42, X52 and X62 aren't listed in the compatibility section.


----------



## fanchiuho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiseguy109*
> 
> Is the Kraken G10 compatible with the new Kraken X42, X52 and X62 coolers? They're Asetek coolers so I would think they are but on NZXT's site the X42, X52 and X62 aren't listed in the compatibility section.


I would bet yes. AFAIK the X_2 series only had their pumps built taller because of the additional infinity mirror and RGB controlling board.

In any case, you will want to watch some videos to see if they have the identical mounting 'teeths' protruding from the circular body from an Asetek pump unit. The video by Gamers Nexus may give you a good idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kc07JtDerUw


----------



## Krgwow

Installed the Kraken with a Gelid Xtreme thermal paste and with the Noctua F12 Industrial 3000 120mm plus a NF A9 92mm on a 980 Ti G1
Didn't install any heatsinks.
Did a light overclock from 1320 to 1500 and +350 on memory and everything is fine by now

Core Clock 45ºC while playing on 80% Fan Speed, The Witcher 3 and BF 1
100% GPU use

But i'm deadly afraid of my VRM temps








My R9 290 back in the days was almost 95ºC on VRMs WITH HEATSINK installed, got traumatized

No artifacts or instability at all
When i was playing i shut down the PC super fast and touch the card on the top of the VRMs, was just a little warm, very little









Hopefully it will be ok, i will overclock further if she dies i will let you guys know.
God bless me


----------



## adamryer

Does anyone know if the G10 is compatible with the Gigabyte Windforce R9 380? Here is a picture of the PCB:



If it is compatible will I need to add any heatsinks? This card also has a backplate, does that affect installation at all? Will I need to remove it? Thanks!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamryer*
> 
> Does anyone know if the G10 is compatible with the Gigabyte Windforce R9 380? Here is a picture of the PCB:
> 
> 
> 
> If it is compatible will I need to add any heatsinks? This card also has a backplate, does that affect installation at all? Will I need to remove it? Thanks!


Technically it is not compatible. The reason for this is because your VRMs are on the output side of the PCB and not on the rear of the PCB. The G-10 is designed to cool VRMs on the rear of the PCB only. You CAN use the G-10 in this situation, you would just need to make sure you have a good fan blowing on the VRM heatsink that your GPU appears to already have which is great. I ran a pair of GTX 970s that were configured like that and had 100% success using the G-10 with an additional fan on the front of the G-10 to cool the VRMs.

Leave the back plate when you install. No need for heat sinks on the VRAM in my opinion.


----------



## adamryer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Technically it is not compatible. The reason for this is because your VRMs are on the output side of the PCB and not on the rear of the PCB. The G-10 is designed to cool VRMs on the rear of the PCB only. You CAN use the G-10 in this situation, you would just need to make sure you have a good fan blowing on the VRM heatsink that your GPU appears to already have which is great. I ran a pair of GTX 970s that were configured like that and had 100% success using the G-10 with an additional fan on the front of the G-10 to cool the VRMs.
> 
> Leave the back plate when you install. No need for heat sinks on the VRAM in my opinion.


Thanks for the info! On your 970s where you able to mount an additional fan directly onto the G10, or did you have it installed some other way? I've seen blower fans that mount into PCI exhaust slots. Not sure if they make any that would blow air onto the GPU. Do you have a pick of that setup?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamryer*
> 
> Thanks for the info! On your 970s where you able to mount an additional fan directly onto the G10, or did you have it installed some other way? I've seen blower fans that mount into PCI exhaust slots. Not sure if they make any that would blow air onto the GPU. Do you have a pick of that setup?


I mounted a fan to a case blank and twisted it a little to aim directly at the VRMs. Worked fine though that may be a little ghetto for you. You can surely make a mount and secure it to the G-10.


----------



## adamryer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I mounted a fan to a case blank and twisted it a little to aim directly at the VRMs. Worked fine though that may be a little ghetto for you. You can surely make a mount and secure it to the G-10.


Think I found my solution: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Fan-Mount-Rack-PCI-Slot-Bracket-for-Video-Card-DIY-/251622181041?hash=item3a95d9c8b1:g:LsAAAOSwd4tT9A6z

This will let me mount a 90mm fan below the card and have it blow directly onto the VRM heatsink.


----------



## Krgwow

Well, seems to be my 980 Ti G1 is limited to 1550/2000 Mhz even with mob bios on 1.275 vddc, can't go further without a freeze playing half a hour...
Even then, with that bios, 45ºC max temp

Seems good to me, would be awesome if i could reach 1600, but i know that would be luck


----------



## Ultisym

That numbers fine. Your not going to see any noticeable difference between 1550 and 1600. Its just my opinion, but anywhere between 1500 and 1600 is normal oc range for a well cooled maxwell.


----------



## Krgwow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> That numbers fine. Your not going to see any noticeable difference between 1550 and 1600. Its just my opinion, but anywhere between 1500 and 1600 is normal oc range for a well cooled maxwell.


Yea... i like to push to the limit anyway, i think i love more doing overclock then gaming








Btw, i know this is off topic, but just a simple question
my 6700k it is on 4.8 on 1.440v, max safe voltage would be 1.5, right?
thanks in advance
ps: 50 ºc on load, the cpu


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krgwow*
> 
> Yea... i like to push to the limit anyway, i think i love more doing overclock then gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, i know this is off topic, but just a simple question
> my 6700k it is on 4.8 on 1.440v, max safe voltage would be 1.5, right?
> thanks in advance
> ps: 50 ºc on load, the cpu


While your temps are good, I would not personally want to run my 6700k chip at voltages over 1.4. Any potential degradation issues just arent worth the limited increase in performance in that scenario. Just a personal opinion.


----------



## Tastyham

Just ordered a h105 and kraken g10 for my gtx 1080 gaming x and I have a question. Can I keep the backplate off the gaming x on or will I have to take it off? Also how hard is it to take off the cooler, never done this before, I assume it should be easy just screws and all.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tastyham*
> 
> Just ordered a h105 and kraken g10 for my gtx 1080 gaming x and I have a question. Can I keep the backplate off the gaming x on or will I have to take it off? Also how hard is it to take off the cooler, never done this before, I assume it should be easy just screws and all.


You should have no issue keeping your back plate. I kept my back plate and skipped the small back plate that comes with the nzxt kit all together. If you do this just make sure the screws will not pull through and use an appropriate washer if needed. Some simply pull off the foam pad on the NZXT back plate and use it as well as keeping the factory back plate.

It is usually quite easy removing the cooler. Usually just the 4 screws around the GPU core holding the cooler on unless it is one of the really large and heavy coolers.


----------



## Tastyham

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You should have no issue keeping your back plate. I kept my back plate and skipped the small back plate that comes with the nzxt kit all together. If you do this just make sure the screws will not pull through and use an appropriate washer if needed. Some simply pull off the foam pad on the NZXT back plate and use it as well as keeping the factory back plate.
> 
> It is usually quite easy removing the cooler. Usually just the 4 screws around the GPU core holding the cooler on unless it is one of the really large and heavy coolers.


I shall see how I go, should be getting parts monday so I'll update on here in case anyone else wants to know how well it works with a gaming x 1080. Ordered the black edition, I might paint the nzxt logo red ( didn't want to get the red version because it doesn't look good in my opinion) also may try install an led for the logo just to make up for the loss of aesthetics from the removal of the stock cooler.


----------



## supersf

Hi friends,

Is Kraken G10 compatible with *Corsair H100*I and *MSI 980 Ti 6G Gaming*?

Thanks


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supersf*
> 
> Hi friends,
> 
> Is Kraken G10 compatible with *Corsair H100*I and *MSI 980 Ti 6G Gaming*?
> 
> Thanks


Negative


----------



## supersf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Negative


How about Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H55? Temps will be good?

Or Xigmatek Scylla 240 AIO Liquid Cooling 2X120MM?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supersf*
> 
> How about Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H55? Temps will be good?
> 
> Or Xigmatek Scylla 240 AIO Liquid Cooling 2X120MM?


H55 will work but there are many others as well. Your just looking for the ASETEK mounting system.



By contrast, the H100 pump/plate looks like



I run H90s on mine currently. If your wanting larger radiator size, there are options there too.


----------



## supersf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> H55 will work but there are many others as well. Your just looking for the ASETEK mounting system.
> 
> 
> 
> By contrast, the H100 pump/plate looks like
> 
> 
> 
> I run H90s on mine currently. If your wanting larger radiator size, there are options there too.


Thanks! Any needs to change stock 92mm fan on Kraken? Or 120mm fan on H55?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supersf*
> 
> Thanks! Any needs to change stock 92mm fan on Kraken? Or 120mm fan on H55?


The fans they come with should be effective for the product they came with, You can buy better fans if you decide you want something quieter, etc.


----------



## supersf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The fans they come with should be effective for the product they came with, You can buy better fans if you decide you want something quieter, etc.


Thanks

Can I expect lower temps with H55 (maybe with 2x120fans sandwich) compare to stock MSI cooler?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supersf*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Can I expect lower temps with H55 (maybe with 2x120fans sandwich) compare to stock MSI cooler?


You will see lower temps on your GPU with the AIO vs the air cooler that comes on it. How much cooler depends on how well the cooling is inside your case to begin with. If you have poor circulation or the case is crowded, the difference can be really big when you exhaust the heat from the GPU straight out of the case using a G-10/AIO.

You can go back through the thread and see where several people are using the G-10 on 980Tis and see what to expect. What temps are you seeing right now?


----------



## supersf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You will see lower temps on your GPU with the AIO vs the air cooler that comes on it. How much cooler depends on how well the cooling is inside your case to begin with. If you have poor circulation or the case is crowded, the difference can be really big when you exhaust the heat from the GPU straight out of the case using a G-10/AIO.
> 
> You can go back through the thread and see where several people are using the G-10 on 980Tis and see what to expect. What temps are you seeing right now?


Right now 80C load and noisy.

I ordered Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H90 for 52$.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supersf*
> 
> Right now 80C load and noisy.
> 
> I ordered Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H90 for 52$.


The H90s I run do well. My SLI GTX 980s (non Ti) ran right around 80C before I installed the G-10/AIO setup. They now run no warmer than 54C with heavy gaming. While Bench marking it will get no hotter than 59C. Should mention, these GPUs are overclocked to 1600 MHz and in SLI configuration.


----------



## supersf

Thanks! I lost full report after installing everything.


----------



## Walkon32

Hello Guys,

Does anyone know whether I can fit the G10 on a Palit Jetstream 980 Ti? I know that it works with a normal 980. Thank you


----------



## mrzoo

I'm sure this has been asked before but can I fit the G10 on a EVGA GTX 1070 superclocked? Not the FE version customers cooler version is what I'm inquiring about.


----------



## supersf

Hi,

Can i use this adapter to put 4 pin fan on GPU?
Ek Water Blocks EK-CABLE PWM Fan Adapter for GPU (50CM/19.6IN
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-pwm-fan-adapter-for-gpu-50cm

And can I use it with Y splitter to put two 140 fans from H90 on GPU? Is there enough power for two fans?

Thanks!


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Anyone used the newer NZXT Kraken x2 series with the bracket? I can go with the X41 for a bit cheaper, but Id rather have the newer product for the little extra money if possible and I cant find any references elsewhere yet other then 'unknown'.


----------



## Ultisym

As long as it has the asetek mount system it will work fine.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> As long as it has the asetek mount system it will work fine.


I appreciate the reply, but no offense Id like to hear it from the horses mouth before I order anything







I understand that its also compatible with CLC's made by Asetek with the round blocks from Corsair, Thermaltake etc.

Watched a few installation videos and it looks like the block is a slightly different shape on the X42, It looks like it doesnt have the indentations that kind of slot into the ones on the bracket. The NZXT website still specifically lists the G10 as being a 'Bracket for the Kraken X41 and X61' though I know it also fits the X40 and X60..

There's a possibility they just haven't updated their website (FAQ doesnt list any GPU later then GTX 980) but I cant find any other info right now. I emailed support and messaged their Facebook, I'll report back when (if) they answer if no one has anything concrete before that.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> I appreciate the reply, but no offense Id like to hear it from the horses mouth before I order anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand that its also compatible with CLC's made by Asetek with the round blocks from Corsair, Thermaltake etc.
> 
> Watched a few installation videos and it looks like the block is a slightly different shape on the X42, It looks like it doesnt have the indentations that kind of slot into the ones on the bracket. The NZXT website still specifically lists the G10 as being a 'Bracket for the Kraken X41 and X61' though I know it also fits the X40 and X60..
> 
> There's a possibility they just haven't updated their website (FAQ doesnt list any GPU later then GTX 980) but I cant find any other info right now. I emailed support and messaged their Facebook, I'll report back when (if) they answer if no one has anything concrete before that.


I dont take offense. The problem with your request to "hear it from the horses mouth" is that it is not going to get you very far here. It has only been released in the final qtr of last year. Unless you find it in this thread by searching it back at least that far. Your not likely to find the answer here yet. Your question should really be directed to the manufacturer. NZXT is actually pretty good about replying. A quick google search will give you the answer.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I dont take offense. The problem with your request to "hear it from the horses mouth" is that it is not going to get you very far here. It has only been released in the final qtr of last year. Unless you find it in this thread by searching it back at least that far. Your not likely to find the answer here yet. Your question should really be directed to the manufacturer. NZXT is actually pretty good about replying. A quick google search will give you the answer.


It has been as I said. You never know if someone is lurking who has tried so I thought it worth an ask, coolers been out a couple of months I'm surprised there's not somethign around the net, or that the question is not in their FAQ's. We'll see.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> It has been as I said. You never know if someone is lurking who has tried so I thought it worth an ask, coolers been out a couple of months I'm surprised there's not somethign around the net, or that the question is not in their FAQ's. We'll see.


This mod is done by a very small part of the enthusiast community. That part of the enthusiast community in this forum is even smaller. That said, the answer is all over half the reviews I found with a 5 second google search. It is an ASETEK. NZXT just has not updated their FAQ. That they are actually terrible at.

_Installation

Physically installing the Kraken X42 was a straightforward process that is found on many Asetec based coolers. First, you select the motherboard series you are using and move the sliding nuts appropriately and then sandwich the motherboard between the backplate and four upright posts. Then the pump section is placed over the cooler (replacing the TIM if necessary) and secure it in place with four nuts that can be tightened by hand although there is a cross-head screwdriver slot in each nut to help you._


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> This mod is done by a very small part of the enthusiast community. That part of the enthusiast community in this forum is even smaller. That said, the answer is all over half the reviews I found with a 5 second google search. It is an ASETEK
> 
> _Installation
> 
> Physically installing the Kraken X42 was a straightforward process that is found on many Asetec based coolers. First, you select the motherboard series you are using and move the sliding nuts appropriately and then sandwich the motherboard between the backplate and four upright posts. Then the pump section is placed over the cooler (replacing the TIM if necessary) and secure it in place with four nuts that can be tightened by hand although there is a cross-head screwdriver slot in each nut to help you._


I obviously wasnt clear. I know its Asetek. It just looks like a slightly _different_ Asetek design.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> I obviously wasnt clear. I know its Asetek. It just looks like a slightly _different_ Asetek design.


I do not know how to explain it to you if you have never installed one. If you have, Go to a review site and look at the parts in the box and the installation method. It very clear. You will have to decide for your self. Good luck.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Nope never installed one, thats why I'm investigating it. What I mean is, Installation videos Ive watched look like the block goes into the bracket and kind of twists in with those plastic notches bits on the edge into the indentations on the bracket which holds it in place while you tighten it down.



Edit rubbish pic, heres another



Doesnt look like the block for the X42/62 has those to me.

Perhaps it doesnt matter or just makes things more awkward. More likely Im over thinking it, but with the lack of info available on their website and elsewhere just makes me wonder. I have been to the trouble of Googling, quite a bit. I dont expect anyone to do that for me thats why I came here to ask if someone knew from first hand experience. I'll wait for NZXT to reply, and report back to here. I really do appreciate you taking the time to have a look for me, so thanks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Nope never installed one, thats why I'm investigating it. What I mean is, Installation videos Ive watched look like the block goes into the bracket and kind of twists in with those plastic notches bits on the edge into the indentations on the bracket which holds it in place while you tighten it down.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit rubbish pic, heres another
> 
> 
> 
> Doesnt look like the block for the X42/62 has those to me.


----------



## supersf

For 980 Ti, MSI Gaming 6G is the only card with VRM heatsinks?

Do I need to install heatsinks on MOSFETS? Or stock kraken fan is enough?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

NZXT got back to me yesterday evening (my time). Apparently the X42/x52/X62 are not compatible with the G10, only previous gen coolers.

Whether that means that its possible with a bit of bodging I'm not sure. They were quite helpful and said they would pass on my interest to the product team, so I guess that an updated bracket is probably not in the works at the moment.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> NZXT got back to me yesterday evening (my time). Apparently the X42/x52/X62 are not compatible with the G10, only previous gen coolers.
> 
> Whether that means that its possible with a bit of bodging I'm not sure. They were quite helpful and said they would pass on my interest to the product team, so I guess that an updated bracket is probably not in the works at the moment.


I really dont see why it wont work, but I nor anyone I know has installed one of their latest coolers on a G=10 yet. Im going to get one in and check it out.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I really dont see why it wont work, but I nor anyone I know has installed one of their latest coolers on a G=10 yet. Im going to get one in and check it out.


I was tempted to try myself, but I just ordered the X41 anyway because I wanted to be sure. Still interested to see what the deal is when you try it though.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> I was tempted to try myself, but I just ordered the X41 anyway because I wanted to be sure. Still interested to see what the deal is when you try it though.


They arent available on Amazon until Feb 5.


----------



## Jeptil0t

The X42/52 coolers use the new Asetek design which improves the mounting, though does render the G10 mounting not compatible, but you can still buy the older Asetek designs from Corsair.

I was using a 980Ti and 290X with a G10 and X41s and it was great for heavy overclocking then, but now the TDP of Pascal is so low it's not really necessary (one would assume Vega will be similar).
Having said that I would say that the new GTX 1070/1080 cards don't really require an LCS, but only if you buy the right AIB partner model.

Using my GTX 1080 Strix it can be OC'd to it's limit on the boxed cooler, so I wouldn't even bother getting the pre-fitted LCS variants as the overall noise level would probably be similar or worse. After using X41s to cool GPUs before, I would say it's better for performance than noise levels as the pumps are not exactly quiet and all up it sounds about the same as a Strix 1080 cranked up.

Though if you wanted to go the drop in LCS option, I would probably recommend the EK Predator with QDC if you wanted something plug and play and the overall price is fairly comparable to multiple X41 AIOs. The Predator is currently being phased out for a new design "coming soon" on the EK website, though I would expect the current QDC pre-filled full cover GPU blocks will be compatible.

I am using an EK 280mm AIO with QDC and 4x 140mm EK Vardar fans in push/pull with a FC pre-filled waterblock on my 1080 and it's pretty clean inside the case, WAY simpler than the X41+G10 to install (mostly due to the required fan and pump cabling, let alone the horrid mounting) and makes less noise due to only have a single, much superior pump and design overall.

The cost of an additional X41 + G10 is actually more expensive than a prefilled EK FC block with QDC and the performance is much better being a full cover block. So for anyone looking to upgrade to the new X42/X52, especially based on the current prices (RBG boyz) I would probably suggest taking a look at a (now) discontinued EK Predator (if you can get one) or wait for the new EK AIOs. Then, if you want to add your GPU to the loop later, it's super east with a pre-filled block, though I haven't seen many people online jumping onto it.

Here in AU I paid $260 for the 280mm EK Predator, with the new X52/54 models going for $220/240 AUD which to me seems super over priced for the Asetek design with RGB lights and basically similar performance to the previous models. The prefilled FC 1080 block with QDC then ran me $160, which is def cheaper or at least comparable to buying a G10 + Asetek AIO (and extra thermal pads, paste etc) for the GPU.

I was a big advocate for the G10 + AIO solution, especially on the 290X/980Ti, but I think it's probably starting to become less relevant with GPU TDP in general going down and other AIO solutions simply being designed better.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> They arent available on Amazon until Feb 5.


That weird theyre on Amazon UK. Guess they sold out over there?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NZXT-RL-KRX42-01-All-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B01MRFQGLN/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485931658&sr=8-1&keywords=kraken+x42
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeptil0t*
> 
> The X42/52 coolers use the new Asetek design which improves the mounting, though does render the G10 mounting not compatible, but you can still buy the older Asetek designs from Corsair.
> 
> I was using a 980Ti and 290X with a G10 and X41s and it was great for heavy overclocking then, but now the TDP of Pascal is so low it's not really necessary (one would assume Vega will be similar).
> Having said that I would say that the new GTX 1070/1080 cards don't really require an LCS, but only if you buy the right AIB partner model.
> 
> Using my GTX 1080 Strix it can be OC'd to it's limit on the boxed cooler, so I wouldn't even bother getting the pre-fitted LCS variants as the overall noise level would probably be similar or worse. After using X41s to cool GPUs before, I would say it's better for performance than noise levels as the pumps are not exactly quiet and all up it sounds about the same as a Strix 1080 cranked up.
> 
> Though if you wanted to go the drop in LCS option, I would probably recommend the EK Predator with QDC if you wanted something plug and play and the overall price is fairly comparable to multiple X41 AIOs. The Predator is currently being phased out for a new design "coming soon" on the EK website, though I would expect the current QDC pre-filled full cover GPU blocks will be compatible.
> 
> I am using an EK 280mm AIO with QDC and 4x 140mm EK Vardar fans in push/pull with a FC pre-filled waterblock on my 1080 and it's pretty clean inside the case, WAY simpler than the X41+G10 to install (mostly due to the required fan and pump cabling, let alone the horrid mounting) and makes less noise due to only have a single, much superior pump and design overall.
> 
> The cost of an additional X41 + G10 is actually more expensive than a prefilled EK FC block with QDC and the performance is much better being a full cover block. So for anyone looking to upgrade to the new X42/X52, especially based on the current prices (RBG boyz) I would probably suggest taking a look at a (now) discontinued EK Predator (if you can get one) or wait for the new EK AIOs. Then, if you want to add your GPU to the loop later, it's super east with a pre-filled block, though I haven't seen many people online jumping onto it.
> 
> Here in AU I paid $260 for the 280mm EK Predator, with the new X52/54 models going for $220/240 AUD which to me seems super over priced for the Asetek design with RGB lights and basically similar performance to the previous models. The prefilled FC 1080 block with QDC then ran me $160, which is def cheaper or at least comparable to buying a G10 + Asetek AIO (and extra thermal pads, paste etc) for the GPU.
> 
> I was a big advocate for the G10 + AIO solution, especially on the 290X/980Ti, but I think it's probably starting to become less relevant with GPU TDP in general going down and other AIO solutions simply being designed better.


For me its a few things, Im not a huge fan of CLC's in general, however there isnt a full cover block available for the EVGA 980Ti FTW. It has a couple of extra VRM phases then the reference board and wasn't all that popular. Ive checked the results people got a while ago and IIRC there's not a huge difference between using a 240/280 rad or a 140mm on a GPU, especially if you're not really into pushing the volts like crazy. I decided to go with a 140mm model because 140 fans can push a bit more air at lower RPM's. Also I have a cupboard full of different model 140mm fans if I want to change it up. I wanted to give the newer models a try because apparently they have a newer revision slightly better pump, but that hasn't worked out.

Ive just started playing Total War Warhammer quite a lot. It runs just fine at 1440 Ultra settings with 2xAA for me, but I like to keep my cards pretty cool and in this game that involves the GPU fans revving up very noticeably on my custom fan profile. I want something that will be a bit quieter under load while still being cool enough, with the added bonus of being able to turn down my case fans at the same time. So in my situation for my needs and with the upgrade being relatively inexpensive for me I figure it's worth a shot for now. Also I get to play with something new for a bit, while I wait for the Ryzen release.









I kind of agree that it might not be worth it on cards using a Gx 104 or lower chip, but if they do ever release a 1080Ti it will probably run almost as hot as a Titan X Pascal, which uses almost as much power as a 980Ti or Maxwell Titan X. Then again these last two gens has seen the FuryX/MSI Seahawk/Waterforce/Hybrid etc so a lot of the market for these brackets almost disappeared as soon as it began.


----------



## eleet03

I have a MSI GTX 1070 gaming Z. Will the kraken G10 be compatible? Also, I would like to leave the back plate and mid plate of my card in place. Could anyone help me on how to do this?


----------



## KickAssCop

MSI cards can work with G10 and an Asetek cooler with teeth (Corsair or NZXT).
You need to replace the cooler. Throw the G10 w/ Asetek on the MSI card and you are golden. I do believe you do not need to remove any plates for this to work.

Plenty of videos will show the same thing.


----------



## maddog2201

Not part of the club yet, I'm looking at getting one for my Gigabyte 7970Ghz edition but I've got no damn idea if it'll fit or not, water blocks for the 7970 don't fit because there's a line of capacitors 2mm left of where they are on the standard 7970. Basically, has anyone ever used a G10 Kraken with a Gigabyte 7970Ghz? I know if it fits I'll be buying some little heatsinks and stick pads for the VRM if the one on it isn't sufficient. But yeah, don't want to fork over $45 if I can't use it.

Thanks.


----------



## raislander

Hi guys, quick question here:

Has anybody tried the Kraken G10 on a gigabyte gtx 1080 Turbo OC?

I'm kind of thinking of getting rid of the blower fan, but I'm not sure whether the G10 will fit or not.

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist

That/s the card and picture of the PCB.

Any feedback it's greatly appreciated.

Thankls!!!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raislander*
> 
> Hi guys, quick question here:
> 
> Has anybody tried the Kraken G10 on a gigabyte gtx 1080 Turbo OC?
> 
> I'm kind of thinking of getting rid of the blower fan, but I'm not sure whether the G10 will fit or not.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist
> 
> That/s the card and picture of the PCB.
> 
> Any feedback it's greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thankls!!!


Link takes me to a System Builder


----------



## raislander

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/GIGABYTE-GeForce-GTX-1080-Turbo-OC-8G-8GB-GDDR5X-%28GV-N1080TTOC-8GD%29_PCB.jpg

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/GIGABYTE-GeForce-GTX-1080-Turbo-OC-8G-8GB-GDDR5X-%28GV-N1080TTOC-8GD%29.jpg

Sorry posted the wrong links. Let me know if you can see them now.


----------



## eleet03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> MSI cards can work with G10 and an Asetek cooler with teeth (Corsair or NZXT).
> You need to replace the cooler. Throw the G10 w/ Asetek on the MSI card and you are golden. I do believe you do not need to remove any plates for this to work.
> 
> Plenty of videos will show the same thing.


I see some people have used buy different nylon washers, screws, and other hardware that is not included in the Kraken G10 to install the NZXT backplate. Would I need them for my specific MSI 1070 card or what is included in the Kraken G10 is sufficient?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eleet03*
> 
> I see some people have used buy different nylon washers, screws, and other hardware that is not included in the Kraken G10 to install the NZXT backplate. Would I need them for my specific MSI 1070 card or what is included in the Kraken G10 is sufficient?


The cooler kits should come with everything you need except the nylon washers.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raislander*
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/GIGABYTE-GeForce-GTX-1080-Turbo-OC-8G-8GB-GDDR5X-%28GV-N1080TTOC-8GD%29_PCB.jpg
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/GIGABYTE-GeForce-GTX-1080-Turbo-OC-8G-8GB-GDDR5X-%28GV-N1080TTOC-8GD%29.jpg
> 
> Sorry posted the wrong links. Let me know if you can see them now.


Yeah it will work with that GPU. You will need to put a heat sink on the VRMs but it will work fine otherwise.


----------



## eleet03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The cooler kits should come with everything you need except the nylon washers.


Do I need the nylon finishing washers though? I see some people state that they don't use and some state that they do.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eleet03*
> 
> Do I need the nylon finishing washers though? I see some people state that they don't use and some state that they do.


The 4 holes around the GPU used to secure the pump/cold plate have a diameter a little smaller than the screws that come with the coolers. Can you get away without using washers, most likely, but there is a possibility you can damage the PCB if something is over tightened. For what 4 small washers cost, it really is worth it to go ahead and buy them just to be safe. Alternatively, you can remove the foam pad on the small NZXT back plate and just use it. It can be placed right over the current back plate if it has one.


----------



## raislander

Thanks for the feedback man.

Together with the G10 I will get a Kraken X41, and for the VMRs and VRAMs modules this heatsinks below:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006KTJUGA/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1GHHA4GPDJQIJ

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GTH9ZK4/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A21T8JQ9FRPMYO

Will change also the fan that comes with the NZXT with a Noctua NF-A9 PWM:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00RUZ059O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A38F5RZ72I2JQ

I suppose I should be "safe" with that right?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raislander*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback man.
> 
> Together with the G10 I will get a Kraken X41, and for the VMRs and VRAMs modules this heatsinks below:
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006KTJUGA/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1GHHA4GPDJQIJ
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GTH9ZK4/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A21T8JQ9FRPMYO
> 
> Will change also the fan that comes with the NZXT with a Noctua NF-A9 PWM:
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00RUZ059O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A38F5RZ72I2JQ
> 
> I suppose I should be "safe" with that right?


Looks like a plan though IMHO it just isnt worth it to put heatsinks on the VRAM. I saw no significan OC increase when I used them on the VRAM chips.

VRM is of course a different story, they get hot the more power you pump in. But those heatsinks will do the trick with that noctua fan blowing directly on them. If you have any more questions, just shout.


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eleet03*
> 
> I see some people have used buy different nylon washers, screws, and other hardware that is not included in the Kraken G10 to install the NZXT backplate. Would I need them for my specific MSI 1070 card or what is included in the Kraken G10 is sufficient?


That is for EVGA cards since the mid plate is raised.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> That is for EVGA cards since the mid plate is raised.


Are you referring to the copper shim?

The pic of the GPU the individual I was conversing with showed did not use a midplate, or did I just miss it?


----------



## eleet03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> That is for EVGA cards since the mid plate is raised.


Cool thanks. Just curious since I don't know much about gpu. Would my gtx 1070 have an IHS like how intel cpus do. Or am I mounting the cooling directly on the Nvidia gpu die?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eleet03*
> 
> Cool thanks. Just curious since I don't know much about gpu. Would my gtx 1070 have an IHS like how intel cpus do. Or am I mounting the cooling directly on the Nvidia gpu die?


No IHS, the cold plate will sit on top of the GPU die.


----------



## eleet03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> No IHS, the cold plate will sit on top of the GPU die.


I wonder why gpu don't have an IHS like cpu. Are the die on the gpu stronger than the ones on the cpu?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eleet03*
> 
> I wonder why gpu don't have an IHS like cpu. Are the die on the gpu stronger than the ones on the cpu?


Its not a matter of strength IMO. Its an engineered package and they have a choice to go either way. I prefer no IHS and a direct high performance cooling solution assuming the cooling system is up to the task. A heat exchanger in the form of an IHS would probably be more forgiving with a lesser cooling system.


----------



## AnneTneal

Asus Radeon 6950 DCII 1gb comparability confirmed
Cosair H55 keeps the card at 40*c on full load.


----------



## fanchiuho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Looks like a plan though IMHO it just isnt worth it to put heatsinks on the VRAM. I saw no significan OC increase when I used them on the VRAM chips.
> 
> VRM is of course a different story, they get hot the more power you pump in. But those heatsinks will do the trick with that noctua fan blowing directly on them. If you have any more questions, just shout.


I would absolutely recommend going the safe route and putting on VRAM heatsinks since not doing so gave my STRIX GTX1080 8G problems.

My mod was going well for the first 2 weeks with 4 VRAM chips covered by the nickel plate and 2 applied with copper heatsinks, out of 8 VRAM chips total. One day all of a sudden, playing Overwatch crashes the GPU and computer locks up to black screen. Restarting did not work as 5 minutes into the game again the same happened. Software solutions did not work.

However, leaving it to equalize with ambient will work for another 30 minutes of play until the problem repeats again. Suspiciously similiar to EVGA's own share of problems, it was until then I noticed it may not be GPU core related but thermals in general. In fact the remaining 2 VRAM chips only have less than 50% surface area covered by the mid plate.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Applying 2 copper heatsinks there solved the issue.

My guess is that VRM heat being dumped into the bare chips of VRAM due to the fan causes issues.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fanchiuho*
> 
> I would absolutely recommend going the safe route and putting on VRAM heatsinks since not doing so gave my STRIX GTX1080 8G problems.
> 
> My mod was going well for the first 2 weeks with 4 VRAM chips covered by the nickel plate and 2 applied with copper heatsinks, out of 8 VRAM chips total. One day all of a sudden, playing Overwatch crashes the GPU and computer locks up to black screen. Restarting did not work as 5 minutes into the game again the same happened. Software solutions did not work.
> 
> However, leaving it to equalize with ambient will work for another 30 minutes of play until the problem repeats again. Suspiciously similiar to EVGA's own share of problems, it was until then I noticed it may not be GPU core related but thermals in general. In fact the remaining 2 VRAM chips only have less than 50% surface area covered by the mid plate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying 2 copper heatsinks there solved the issue.
> 
> My guess is that VRM heat being dumped into the bare chips of VRAM due to the fan causes issues.


I suppose thats possible if its the two chips in question are located closest to the VRMs and the cooling in this area is insufficient.


----------



## raislander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Looks like a plan though IMHO it just isnt worth it to put heatsinks on the VRAM. I saw no significan OC increase when I used them on the VRAM chips.
> 
> VRM is of course a different story, they get hot the more power you pump in. But those heatsinks will do the trick with that noctua fan blowing directly on them. If you have any more questions, just shout.


Hi thanks a lot for the tips, really helpful.

Also a couple of more questions now that I've got the bracket:

1) I've got a H110 for the CPU, and a Kraken X41 for the GPU. How you connect the USB for both to the motherboard? I've got two USB 2.0 connectors on the MB, one from the front of the case,and one from the Corsair H110????

2) Would you recommend any short of support bracket? Is it needed?

Thanks!!!


----------



## kevindd992002

Does anyone have a pic of the g10 on a zotac gtx 1070 board showing the pci-e slot side of the gpu? I want to see the clearance it has between the pump and the sp-cap just below the gpu die.


----------



## raislander

Hi guys,

I finally went ahead, and got the Kraken G10, together with an X41. Now the card sits at full load at 45-46 degrees and with heavy games at 51, Just Wow!!! Nice change considering best case I was always at 74-75 degrees. And so quiet, before my blower fan would make my ears bleed to keep the temperatures down.

I added some VRM heatsinks and VRAMs heatsinks, and they are also at 40-50 degrees.

The issue now is that since I've removed the stock cooler the temperature on the backside of the card has actually gone up. I have realized that this card may also have some VRMs on the back as showed in the picture, is that it?

I was measuring temps yesterday, and I've gone from 65-67 tops on those ICs to 77-78 now. Should it be good to put some heatsinks on those on the backside as well?

Are those VRMs for something different?

Thanks for your help!!!!


----------



## raislander

Well it turns out that those are MOSFETs as well, seems that this card has 3 single channel MOSFET, instead of the more common single dual-channel MOSFET, looks like that way they are able to split the temperature between the MOSFETs more evenly, without having one single IC getting too hot.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/best-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-graphics-cards,review-33729-6.html

I have gotten some more heatsinks for the back and hopefully that will lower the temps on the back of the card to 60 degrees or around where it was before.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raislander*
> 
> Well it turns out that those are MOSFETs as well, seems that this card has 3 single channel MOSFET, instead of the more common single dual-channel MOSFET, looks like that way they are able to split the temperature between the MOSFETs more evenly, without having one single IC getting too hot.
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/best-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-graphics-cards,review-33729-6.html
> 
> I have gotten some more heatsinks for the back and hopefully that will lower the temps on the back of the card to 60 degrees or around where it was before.


Be sure there is plenty of air flow direct their way and it should be fine. Those mosfets are most likely for the memory. Are you pushing your memory hard on OC?


----------



## raislander

The card has a 8+2 phase vrm, so to my understanding 8 vrm phases for the GPU and 2 phases for the memory right?
The memory mosfets I think should be the ones alone at the end of the card, there are single two on the backside separated from those 8 ones.

I was pushing the memory a bit, up to 5500MHz, so 11GH. But mostly I was concerned about those getting too hot. Also it seems I might be a bit far still of the Tjmax, around 125C, so measuring 77 not that bad, but still would like to see something around 65-67 like before to be on the safe side.


----------



## raislander

Well, I finally did yesterday the "upgrade" with the new heatsinks, and it didn't go as smoot as I expected.

As starters it was a bit complicated to have heatsinks on both sides of the card, and then handle the Kraken G10 and reinstall. Then when I applied the thermal paste I think it didn't go as fine as 1st time, as there was too much paste.

Once I have it resinstalled, I started and the card started to act weird, some artifacts on the screen, and then black screen. I rebooted but since then black screen all the time.

After almost 2 hours trying different options, I decided to leave it for a while. I woke up this morning, and I took off the heatsinks on the back of the card and did the screws again this time trying no to tighten them so much. And it worked!!!!

Card is back on, have run some stress test, everything runs ok, and with new heatsinks on the chokes the temp on the backside VRMs have dropped 10 degrees from stock fan, under load now at 55 degrees tops.

Pretty happy and I'm just gonna leave it as it is, as I don't want to try more and brick my card.

Only issue now is that the HDD led no longer works????????!!!!!!!! Weird as everything is connected properly.

Thanks for all the help.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raislander*
> 
> Well, I finally did yesterday the "upgrade" with the new heatsinks, and it didn't go as smoot as I expected.
> 
> As starters it was a bit complicated to have heatsinks on both sides of the card, and then handle the Kraken G10 and reinstall. Then when I applied the thermal paste I think it didn't go as fine as 1st time, as there was too much paste.
> 
> Once I have it resinstalled, I started and the card started to act weird, some artifacts on the screen, and then black screen. I rebooted but since then black screen all the time.
> 
> After almost 2 hours trying different options, I decided to leave it for a while. I woke up this morning, and I took off the heatsinks on the back of the card and did the screws again this time trying no to tighten them so much. And it worked!!!!
> 
> Card is back on, have run some stress test, everything runs ok, and with new heatsinks on the chokes the temp on the backside VRMs have dropped 10 degrees from stock fan, under load now at 55 degrees tops.
> 
> Pretty happy and I'm just gonna leave it as it is, as I don't want to try more and brick my card.
> 
> Only issue now is that the HDD led no longer works????????!!!!!!!! Weird as everything is connected properly.
> 
> Thanks for all the help.


The heatsinks may have produced a short. I am glad it was not permanantly damaged and you have it working again. Check and make sure that the cable for the HDD Led is connected well. Sometimes it can be a little loose and not work, or if you knocked it off accidentally and put it back on, you missed a pin or put it on the wrong pin. Just double check when you have fresh eyes.


----------



## raislander

Thanks!!!

I supposed the same, that the heatsinks on the back had created a short, (and I panicked when I saw the card not working again).

I think the more tired you are the worse you do things normally.

This morning a bit more fresh I managed to think clearly and understand where the issue was. I will try to see later today about the LED, but if it's dead nothing that would keep me awake at night, as I don't see the top of my case that much as it's sitting next to me anyway,

So far, apart from this issue, I'm really happy with the mod. I've managed to bring down the GPU to 40-50 degrees at load, and the VRMs and the region around those at 55-60 degrees.

This with the card running at 2000 MHz and the Mem at 11000 Mhz, great stuff. Really serious great stuff.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raislander*
> 
> Thanks!!!
> 
> I supposed the same, that the heatsinks on the back had created a short, (and I panicked when I saw the card not working again).
> 
> I think the more tired you are the worse you do things normally.
> 
> This morning a bit more fresh I managed to think clearly and understand where the issue was. I will try to see later today about the LED, but if it's dead nothing that would keep me awake at night, as I don't see the top of my case that much as it's sitting next to me anyway,
> 
> So far, apart from this issue, I'm really happy with the mod. I've managed to bring down the GPU to 40-50 degrees at load, and the VRMs and the region around those at 55-60 degrees.
> 
> This with the card running at 2000 MHz and the Mem at 11000 Mhz, great stuff. Really serious great stuff.


Those are good numbers. Aside from performance, it will enhance the life of the GPU as well. Another good thing about this mod is it can follow you from this GPU to your next if needed in most cases. I have had the same G-10s and same Corsair H-90s on three different pair of GPUs now.


----------



## raislander

Well I'm glad to know that I'll be using my GTX 1080 a lot more, and it will have a bit further life in it due to this.

To be honest my main concern was because of temps and noise....the blower fan can be so noisy sometimes.

Glad also to know that this mod can be brought forward with new cards (as far as the PCB design remains I suppose).

I would recommend definitely doing it to those that have a card and their stock fan/heatsink is not performing well enough. Just be careful about the process and pay attention to what you are doing. Don't tight too much your screws, as that can have the wrong effect.

I tested it yesterday stable at 2075 MHz, and temps in the 47 region, with no throttle at all. It's amazing.

I've dropped it back to 1950 and 10800 on the memories, just because it's really not needed. Yesterday playing Gears of War 4 at 120 FPS (1440p / Ultra settings) around 2-3 hours. Temp at 52 degrees and VRMs at 72. Before I had to turn off the game as the card would get ridiculously hot.

Thanks for the help Ultisym.


----------



## Dezael

Hi all! I read a lot of this thread and you guys sorted most of my questions already. Thanks! However I still have one particular problem.

I'd like to find a compatible AIO with a 240mm rad whitch is 27mm thick. My case won't take 38mm so this excludes this dear h105 from Corsair. Does anyone know about one? Didn't find any other.

Also Ultisym did you try to get a X42/52/62 to check? I'm heavily interrested in what you could have found...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dezael*
> 
> Hi all! I read a lot of this thread and you guys sorted most of my questions already. Thanks! However I still have one particular problem.
> 
> I'd like to find a compatible AIO with a 240mm rad whitch is 27mm thick. My case won't take 38mm so this excludes this dear h105 from Corsair. Does anyone know about one? Didn't find any other.
> 
> Also Ultisym did you try to get a X42/52/62 to check? I'm heavily interrested in what you could have found...


No I havnt come back to check this. There was some clarification since that post and apparently there was a change to the teeth design on the newer ASETEK pumps which means it will not work on the bracket unless modified. While its seems self defeating for NZXT to release a pump mounting system not compatible with their G=10 product, it is best to just stick with the AIOs we know work with the G-10 for now.


----------



## NIK1

Does anyone know if the NZXT Kraken G10 will work on a Gigabyte Radeon Rx 470 vid card...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Does anyone know if the NZXT Kraken G10 will work on a Gigabyte Radeon Rx 470 vid card...


Got a pic of it in a review or something with the cooler removed?


----------



## NIK1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Got a pic of it in a review or something with the cooler removed?


Here is a pic I found.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Here is a pic I found.


Ok the good news is the G-10 will in fact fit and work on the GPU.

However, This PCB has the VRMs mounted on the output side of the GPU which will require you to add heatsinks to the VRMs and to mount a fan to blow air over them. This is not hard to do, its just more than the average installer has to go through. I did it with a pair of GTX 970s and worked fine and cost was minimal.

The G-10 is setup to deal with cooling VRMs located on the rear of the GPU which is the most common placement.


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for the info.Do you know what size of heatsinks I would need for the VRMs.


----------



## Ultisym

Most people use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C10-Forged-Copper-Heatsinks/dp/B004CL89D8

or http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/252430409689?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Whichever works for you.


----------



## NIK1

If I mount a fan underneath the vid card to blow air on the spot to cool the vrm's,would the heatsinks then still be necessary to put on.


----------



## S0nny

Okay, so what about cooling my vrm's to get a bit more stable oc?

Like I know it has the fan, but in the videos I've seen and the articles I have read, it seems that they are heating up too much to allow a high and stable oc.


----------



## NIK1

Just an idea since I don't have any heat sinks handy right now. I have thermal tape, if I put this on the vrm's with a extra fan underneath the card would this cool them enough. Not overclocking the card also,she's stock.


----------



## Ultisym

Its a crap shoot. It may work well enough. Just know you need to get some heat sinks with some good air flow across them on there before you start pushing anything.


----------



## NIK1

Right on, even with stock clocks on the card heatsinks are still needed. I will have to order some from amazon then.Thanks for all your input.....


----------



## Mufufu

Will the kraken G10 fit the 1080TI?

If yes:
Do I need to buy it from MSI, ASUS etc or straight from Nvidia?
I am aware the card isnt out yet, but for my understanding it has the same PCB as Titan X right?

Best regards Muf


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mufufu*
> 
> Will the kraken G10 fit the 1080TI?
> 
> If yes:
> Do I need to buy it from MSI, ASUS etc or straight from Nvidia?
> I am aware the card isnt out yet, but for my understanding it has the same PCB as Titan X right?
> 
> Best regards Muf


I wouldnt assume anything when planning your watercooling setup. The G-10 will fit without issue. The question is where the VRMs are in relation to the VRM cooling fan mount on the G-10. Like you im almost certain you will fine, but would like to confirm by seeing a bare PCB.


----------



## Mufufu

So it doesnt matter if I buy a card directly from nVidia or from MSI, Asus etc?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mufufu*
> 
> So it doesnt matter if I buy a card directly from nVidia or from MSI, Asus etc?


They all have variations at times. Its best to wait and see the PCB layout for the VRMs.


----------



## Mufufu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> They all have variations at times. Its best to wait and see the PCB layout for the VRMs.


Oh like that. Sorry I misunderstood.


----------



## NIK1

I got some copper heatsinks from amazon today. I want to make shure I have them in the right spots. I have posted a pic of my card, where the 2 red arrows are is this the only spots where the heatsinks 
go..Edit..Or is it the spots on the right of the arrows..


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I got some copper heatsinks from amazon today. I want to make shure I have them in the right spots. I have posted a pic of my card, where the 2 red arrows are is this the only spots where the heatsinks
> go..Edit..Or is it the spots on the right of the arrows..


No those are the chokes. Im not on a machine I can do any marking up photos with at the moment so i just grabbed an example off google. Here ya go


The black heatsink is covering the VRMs in this photo. If your still not sure let me know and I will mark up your photo for you later unless someone beats me to the punch.

Hope that helps
Sym

Edit: Just saw your "edit" yes the black chips to the right of the chokes which you have marked with the red arrows.

Also, note the lone choke all the way to the left of the picture you posted, those are VRMs next to that which are for the memory. If you plan on trying to overclock the memory much, I would give them a little love and put heatsinks on them as well though those should be well cooled by the fan on the G-10 bracket.


----------



## bigblueshock

I've learned a lot from the 980 Ti series. I really liked MSI's lineup how the VRM's have separate heat sinks from the factory. My only caveat with the 980 Ti I had was the hardware voltage lock at 1.237 (if i recall) was the highest voltage I was able to go, regardless of BIOS editing.

Hopefully we see cards that are not as strict on voltage locking. Heck, my 980 Ti wasn't even hitting 50 in the winter at full load


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> I've learned a lot from the 980 Ti series. I really liked MSI's lineup how the VRM's have separate heat sinks from the factory. My only caveat with the 980 Ti I had was the hardware voltage lock at 1.237 (if i recall) was the highest voltage I was able to go, regardless of BIOS editing.
> 
> Hopefully we see cards that are not as strict on voltage locking. Heck, my 980 Ti wasn't even hitting 50 in the winter at full load


Its nice to have the ability to tke the voltage higher, and honestly, as much as we pay for these cards we should be able to do what we want with them. But the few times I have played with the higher voltage on maxwell, the extra wear and tear wasnt worth the increases I saw. Perhaps its different on Pascal.


----------



## SperVxo

Will this cooler fit the 1080 Ti founders edition. Its the same att titan xp?

Need som moddin i guess?


----------



## bigblueshock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Its nice to have the ability to tke the voltage higher, and honestly, as much as we pay for these cards we should be able to do what we want with them. But the few times I have played with the higher voltage on maxwell, the extra wear and tear wasnt worth the increases I saw. Perhaps its different on Pascal.


Ultisym, Thanks for the input.

Based on your past experience and generally speaking, would you wait for a dual 8pin card vs. a 8pin 6pin PCB? (Considering the stock founders PCB is 8pin 6pin)

I'd guess more power to the board = better power distribution and higher OC, especially on water, however I wonder how much. Like you previously mentioned, there's not much advantage going past a certain voltage.

I'm torn right now. I know the custom PCB boards will be at least $750USD


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigblueshock*
> 
> Ultisym, Thanks for the input.
> 
> Based on your past experience and generally speaking, would you wait for a dual 8pin card vs. a 8pin 6pin PCB? (Considering the stock founders PCB is 8pin 6pin)
> 
> I'd guess more power to the board = better power distribution and higher OC, especially on water, however I wonder how much. Like you previously mentioned, there's not much advantage going past a certain voltage.
> 
> I'm torn right now. I know the custom PCB boards will be at least $750USD


Yeah i would personally wait as it "probably" means higher end power components and a higher phase count. If you are wanting to overclock, you want the most power potential. Keep in mind their may not end up being a dual 8 pin design offered even AIB, but it seems likely there will be.


----------



## SgtRotty

hello! i have a MSI 980ti with a back-plate. i have the g10 installed with a H55, im running around 73c while gaming with only 1.205v. To me thats a little high, my 780s wouldnt break 60c with 2x gpu with g10s installed on both. now i only have 1x 980ti. Is it recommended that i put a copper shim between the cooler and die?


----------



## Ultisym

Does your new gpu have a midplate? If so you very well could need a shim. When you renove the cold plate look at the thermal paste. You should be able to tell if there was no significant contact


----------



## soureraser

So...I already gotten the G10 for GTX 1080 but I'm not sure whether I should go for H55 or H75.
I have quite a bit of gift card balance leftover from Christmas at NCIX&Amazon so my option is 1: NCIX and buy H55 for $68 or 2: Amazon to buy H75 for $70. Of course I value Amazon gift way more than $2 since I can buy just more than computer parts but is it worth the upgrade from H55?
The (extra)fans that come with H75 will be useless and will be replaced with my own Noctuas.


----------



## KickAssCop

H55. No point in the H75 if you are going to throw away the fans but honestly for 2 bucks, I will get the extra fan for that rainy day.


----------



## CyberRenz

Hi all Im in the process of planning a build Im curious so I came to ask if anyone has ever tried the G10 bracket on a 1080 Galax HoF card? Because I have the card but planning to water cool an otherwise good aftermarket card


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberRenz*
> 
> Hi all Im in the process of planning a build Im curious so I came to ask if anyone has ever tried the G10 bracket on a 1080 Galax HoF card? Because I have the card but planning to water cool an otherwise good aftermarket card


G-10 will work well on that GPU .Vrms already have a nice heat sink.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Does anyone have a good source comparing different AIO performances with the G10?

Sadly, the H55 can't keep a 1080 Ti below 60C consistently. It floats around 58c to 62C with max fan speed and it's annoying because thermal throttling occurs right at 60C. Not only that, the fan noise has become umbarable to me even with headphones.

I have upgraded to a x41 in hopes that it will keep me away from 60C and so I don't have to have a 2000 RPM 120mm fan running at max. Heck, if I can get temperatures below 50C, that would be even better!


----------



## Ultisym

Do you have the fans exhausting the heat from the case. Not set to intake. Larger radiators will indeed help. I cannot attest to what the temps would be on a 1080TI but typically the larger the radiator the better. I use 140mm on each of two 980s and at 1600 clocks they run around 52C gaming. Larger 240 or 280mm units would surely do better. Though I cant come up with any hard fast numbers as the 1080ti is a new release.

On a side note. 60C is kind of low for it to be throttling


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Do you have the fans exhausting the heat from the case. Not set to intake. Larger radiators will indeed help. I cannot attest to what the temps would be on a 1080TI but typically the larger the radiator the better. I use 140mm on each of two 980s and at 1600 clocks they run around 52C gaming. Larger 240 or 280mm units would surely do better. Though I cant come up with any hard fast numbers as the 1080ti is a new release.
> 
> On a side note. 60C is kind of low for it to be throttling


It doesn't matter which direction or if I leave the case open.

I used a 980 Ti previously and it was kept at 55C. But Maxwell was a 28nm die. Pascal is a 16nm die and I don't know the science behind it, but others say it takes more work to extract the heat from it.

And yes, Pascal cards have boost clocks up to 2000 MHz so NVIDIA has them start thermal throttling like at 40C which is where you will get your maximum boost clock. You throttle like 12Mhz of boost for every 5C from there.

When I first do a benchmark at 40C, I'm at 2088 Mhz. By the time things heat up and I'm at 60C I'm boosting at 2038Mhz. I have to turn my fans up to 2000 RPM to keep it at 57C and 58C but it's loud and annoying and sometimes it will hit 60C and throttle.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> It doesn't matter which direction or if I leave the case open.
> 
> I used a 980 Ti previously and it was kept at 55C. But Maxwell was a 28nm die. Pascal is a 16nm die and I don't know the science behind it, but others say it takes more work to extract the heat from it.
> 
> And yes, Pascal cards have boost clocks up to 2000 MHz so NVIDIA has them start thermal throttling like at 40C which is where you will get your maximum boost clock. You throttle like 12Mhz of boost for every 5C from there.
> 
> When I first do a benchmark at 40C, I'm at 2088 Mhz. By the time things heat up and I'm at 60C I'm boosting at 2038Mhz. I have to turn my fans up to 2000 RPM to keep it at 57C and 58C but it's loud and annoying and sometimes it will hit 60C and throttle.


In this case it may be time to go custom components. Best of luck to you.


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> In this case it may be time to go custom components. Best of luck to you.


I'll give the x41 a try first. It has almost as much radiator surface as a HOP by volume. Won't be as effective since it doesn't have 4 fans, but we'll see.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> And yes, Pascal cards have boost clocks up to 2000 MHz so NVIDIA has them start thermal throttling like at 40C which is where you will get your maximum boost clock. You throttle like 12Mhz of boost for every 5C from there.
> .


You have a link for this? Everything I am finding shows NVIDIA has it set to throttle at 84C. ARE the partner cards changing this?


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You have a link for this? Everything I am finding shows NVIDIA has it set to throttle at 84C. ARE the partner cards changing this?


That's different. It will actually throttle your base clock back if it has to. I'm talking about boost clocks which are dependent on a number of variables. Power, voltage and temperature.

Visit the 1080 Ti thread for more information.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/2620


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> That's different. It will actually throttle your base clock back if it has to. I'm talking about boost clocks which are dependent on a number of variables. Power, voltage and temperature.
> 
> Visit the 1080 Ti thread for more information.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/2620


ahh ok, I see what your talking about now.


----------



## Terdog

I have a question about the Kraken G10. Has anyone gotten one to work with the Asus Strix 390 cards? I have checked the PCG and it looks similar to the reference one, but i wanted to make sure before it purchase it.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terdog*
> 
> I have a question about the Kraken G10. Has anyone gotten one to work with the Asus Strix 390 cards? I have checked the PCG and it looks similar to the reference one, but i wanted to make sure before it purchase it.


Yeah *as long as* the gpu in question has the VRMs on the output side of the GPU die it should work just fine. If the VRMs are on the output side of the die, you can still use the G-10 but you will have to rig a fan over the VRMs. However as far as i know, all or nearly all 390s have the VRMs on the rear of the card. Do you have a picture of the GPU in question with the air cooler removed?

Also, if you have not already bought the GPU, I suggest finding one that comes from the MFG with a heat sink on the VRMs vs the Air cooler. You can put heatsinks on the VRMs yourself but its defiintely easier just getting one that already has the heat sinks on the VRMs.


----------



## madmeatballs

Okay, I installed my kraken g10 to a GTX 1080 Ti as I wait for a proper waterblock. Now, my problem is, my Noctua 92mm fan wont work when I install the latest driver for it. Using the stock cooler everything was fine. But with the noctua it doesn't want to spin. I am using the Gelid adapter, this worked fine with my 1070 previously. I know this also happened to my 1070 before I just forgot what I did. Maybe someone can remind me. Fans spin on boot and before logging in to windows.\

Woops, nevermind, I solved it. By just flicking the fan and adapter's connection. Looks like I'd just have to bear with it until I get a proper waterblock.


----------



## Terdog

I just took apart my Asus 390 card and took a picture of it. On the back of the card there as a massive backplate that runs the whole length of the card.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terdog*
> 
> I just took apart my Asus 390 card and took a picture of it. On the back of the card there as a massive backplate that runs the whole length of the card.


Backplate is not issue. you can and should keep it. Either skip the NZXT backplate and use washers or remove the padding on the back of the NZXT backplate. You will need to put some VRM Heatsinks on there as your GPU came with them as part of the removable air cooler. No big deal though. The G-10 will work on that GPU fine.


----------



## slickric21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Okay, I installed my kraken g10 to a GTX 1080 Ti as I wait for a proper waterblock.


Did you require a Shim ?
What 1080ti do you have ?

Ive got a Kraken G10 and H75 here, not sure which 1080ti to go for atm, ideally i'd like to not have to use a shim......


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> Did you require a Shim ?
> What 1080ti do you have ?
> 
> Ive got a Kraken G10 and H75 here, not sure which 1080ti to go for atm, ideally i'd like to not have to use a shim......


If the GPU has a design which includes a midplate, you can usually (not always of course) but usually count on needing a shim for the GPU die to make proper contact with the cold plate. I am not aware of any designs that *DO NOT* use a midplate *that will* require a shim on the GPU die.

Since you already have the H-75 I would definitely give it a shot and see if it can do the job on the 1080ti. I have heard from a couple people that it (it being the 1080ti) runs on the warm side compared to previous Pascal releases. But thats just word of mouth and they could be full of you know what. But keep in the back of your mind that it may need a little more cowbell for cooling if the temps are on the warmish side after your install.


----------



## KickAssCop

Anyone install this on founders edition of 1080 Ti?


----------



## slickric21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> If the GPU has a design which includes a midplate, you can usually (not always of course) but usually count on needing a shim for the GPU die to make proper contact with the cold plate. I am not aware of any designs that *DO NOT* use a midplate *that will* require a shim on the GPU die.
> 
> Since you already have the H-75 I would definitely give it a shot and see if it can do the job on the 1080ti. I have heard from a couple people that it (it being the 1080ti) runs on the warm side compared to previous Pascal releases. But thats just word of mouth and they could be full of you know what. But keep in the back of your mind that it may need a little more cowbell for cooling if the temps are on the warmish side after your install.


Yeah I had a mid plate on my 980ti (eVGA sc) and required a shim. Still got it 25x25x1.5mm

I saw the Gamernexus diy 1080ti hybrid where they used an eVGA hybrid AIO, but that has a stepped copper base so no shim needed,

I can't work out by pictures if I will need a shim if I go for the founders edition and try to leave the midplate and fan assesmbly in place like Gamernexus did


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slickric21*
> 
> Yeah I had a mid plate on my 980ti (eVGA sc) and required a shim. Still got it 25x25x1.5mm
> 
> I saw the Gamernexus diy 1080ti hybrid where they used an eVGA hybrid AIO, but that has a stepped copper base so no shim needed,
> 
> I can't work out by pictures if I will need a shim if I go for the founders edition and try to leave the midplate and fan assesmbly in place like Gamernexus did


If you can readily get your hands on them they are typically cheap. Better to have them on hand and not need them than vice versa. That way you dont have to wait on anything and its done right either way.


----------



## darthdirty

I just got a MSI 1080ti Amor OC. Would the G10 fit on it?


----------



## Duckz

I am putting together a Kraken G10 on a EVGA 1080 TI FE. I have ordered Enzotech MOS-C10 Forged Copper MOSFET Heatsinks, and Koolance HTS-GP001P Video RAM Heat Sinks.

I can't seem to figure out if I need a shim, and what size the shim is if needed. It looks like I only need the shim if I keep the shroud and backplate on. Is that correct?

It looks like this guy skips the shim, although it's not a Founders card.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkN_KTZpCQs

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Duckz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duckz*
> 
> I am putting together a Kraken G10 on a EVGA 1080 TI FE. I have ordered Enzotech MOS-C10 Forged Copper MOSFET Heatsinks, and Koolance HTS-GP001P Video RAM Heat Sinks.
> 
> I can't seem to figure out if I need a shim, and what size the shim is if needed. It looks like I only need the shim if I keep the shroud and backplate on. Is that correct?
> 
> It looks like this guy skips the shim, although it's not a Founders card.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkN_KTZpCQs
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


I was able to piece together information via this forum, and reddit.

Some people are choosing not to use a copper shim. Some are using it. I am assuming that if you are not using it, you must take the midplate off. I will find out when I take mine apart. 20x25x2mm is the best fit, with 25x25 working. It sounds like 2mm may stick up over the lip a little, it may be closer to 1.8mm.

Last night I ordered multiple different thickness shims in the 20x25mm size. I called the company this morning at 8am, and they already had them cut and were shipping today. I will let you know the quality of the shims when I get them, and more importantly which is the best fit.

http://www.onlinemetals.com

I found out that it is possible to keep the original fan on the card, and just use the G10 bracket. I have heatsinks for the vram, but maybe keeping the stock fan is a better choice. Does anyone have any thoughts on that?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

In case anyone is interested. The Kraken G12 is out and compatible with the latest Xx2 coolers from NZXT where the G10 isnt. Its also backwards compatible with the. X41 X40 etc. Supposed to be easier to install as well.

https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g12

https://www.techpowerup.com/232302/nzxt-announces-the-kraken-g12-aio-liquid-vga-cooling-adapter


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> In case anyone is interested. The Kraken G12 is out and compatible with the latest Xx2 coolers from NZXT where the G10 isnt. Its also backwards compatible with the. X41 X40 etc. Supposed to be easier to install as well.
> 
> https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g12
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/232302/nzxt-announces-the-kraken-g12-aio-liquid-vga-cooling-adapter


I have not come across this yet. glad to see they are doing this. It never made any sense to me that they were building new AIOs that were not compatible. Nice catch

As for easier to install. I have never thought the G-10 was difficult at all, the whole concept is quite simple.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I have not come across this yet. glad to see they are doing this. It never made any sense to me that they were building new AIOs that were not compatible. Nice catch
> 
> As for easier to install. I have never thought the G-10 was difficult at all, the whole concept is quite simple.


Just repeating what the marketing says tbh







I didnt find it too bad after watching a couple of videos but Id imagine it gets easier after the nth time doing it as well.


----------



## .XiLe.

Does anyone have a picture of this shim installed?

I just bought a Kraken G10 for my 1080ti FE and I will be installing a Corsair H75 on it.


----------



## Duckz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.XiLe.*
> 
> Does anyone have a picture of this shim installed?
> 
> I just bought a Kraken G10 for my 1080ti FE and I will be installing a Corsair H75 on it.


I will take a picture when I do the install on Saturday or Sunday.


----------



## masteratarms

I'm getting an RX 580 will this fit? I searched the thread no results for rx 580. I have it on a 280x currently.


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> I'm getting an RX 580 will this fit? I searched the thread no results for rx 580. I have it on a 280x currently.


it should fit just fine, you may need to use a shim though. Only problem I see is that the VRM location. You will need to cool them off given that they are on the other end of the board.


----------



## masteratarms

Are u sure vrm is on wrong side?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaE_6eFaYjs


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Are u sure vrm is on wrong side?
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaE_6eFaYjs


Your good to use the G-10 on the GPU in that link. The VRMs are to the rear of the die.


----------



## mnemo_05

My bad, looks like this is a straight refresh of the rx480 with higher clocks. You should be fine. Not sure though if the die is taller or shorter than that thing around the die.


----------



## Carbon12

So I ordered a g10 and a corsair h110. I've never owned and AIO before so I'm not sure how it works. Do I plug the pump controller into the GPU 4 pin or into the mobo 4 pin? if I get a Y-spliter for the small fan on the g10 and the pump of the h110 do I stand any chance of damaging components with the extra power draw?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carbon12*
> 
> So I ordered a g10 and a corsair h110. I've never owned and AIO before so I'm not sure how it works. Do I plug the pump controller into the GPU 4 pin or into the mobo 4 pin? if I get a Y-spliter for the small fan on the g10 and the pump of the h110 do I stand any chance of damaging components with the extra power draw?


The pump should always be placed on its own MB header. It will be a three pin. Make sure the fan header has full power in the BIOS. You can either plug the fan on the G-10 into a fan header, split a line for one of your case fans with the splitter you mentioned, or get the plug that adapts the nzxt 3 pin fan to attach too the GPU PCB and use the power already run to there.

Mount the radiator for the AIO on the GPU with the fans exhausting from the case and enjoy.


----------



## BigBeard86

I have a 1080 watercooled using the original kraken g10. I am thinking of upgrading to the Ti (30fps gain in Bf1...insane).

What model of the Ti is the best to get for using it with the g10?

The 1080FE I have had issues with the small copper heatsinks falling off...had to remount 3 times total. I'd like to avoid this problem.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> I have a 1080 watercooled using the original kraken g10. I am thinking of upgrading to the Ti (30fps gain in Bf1...insane).
> 
> What model of the Ti is the best to get for using it with the g10?
> 
> The 1080FE I have had issues with the small copper heatsinks falling off...had to remount 3 times total. I'd like to avoid this problem.


The only thing you can do is try to find a GPU that has heat sinks attached to the graphics card PCB and not built into the removable cooler. I know there are other manufacturers but I have found ASUS most commonly does. Thats not to say ASUS doesnt build them into the removable cooler at all, they do. Its just not as common on their higher end offerings IN MY EXPERIENCE. Anyhow. Nothing replaces researching and finding reviews where they took the GPU apart and looking at all the pics. Heat sinks on the VRMs is a must, Heat sinks on the VRAM is optional.


----------



## Moosito

G12 bracket on my GTX 1080 Founders Edition SLI. Keep in mind I haven't tried overclocking my card far with it yet, so take stuff with a grain of salt.

I tried to manufacture my own VRM heatsink solution but as many have tried, it has simply fallen off. I had to go sink-less on the VRM and trust in NZXT's statistics. During that process I had contacted NZXT a few times via discord and found out some pretty good information.

First off, that the VRAM heatsink clearance is about 5mm tall, and that the "other" heatsinks "Mosfets, ets, not chokes because they are raised" is about 10mm.

Pictures taken off the G12 CAD file (from nzxt, I dont have the file duh).
http://i.imgur.com/JU70DnF.png
http://i.imgur.com/ewjAPqa.png

So we all know that the VRM generates heat, but how much exactly without a heatsink? Well On NZXT's very own website they site "45C without, 43C with (heatsinks)". Unfortunately I had founders edition cards so I could not see the VRM temps straight off of a program. Instead I used an infrared temp gun you find at your local homedepot. Believe it or not it was fairly accurate. I tested it on the back side of the core etc. and got pretty close numbers to the CAM software. So during gaming under full tilt (200% super sampled overwatch maxed out) I was seeing 46C, well within NZXT's margin of error. Afterwards I booted up furmark and really loaded the cards, and the VRM shot up to 80C. Pretty high, but nothing too dangerous considering VRM can handle around 125C. Keeping in mind that is under a full load with a synthetic benchmark I am very pleased. As for VRAM Cooling, I threw some of the classic "copper" ones off amazon onto my cards just for precaution.

http://i.imgur.com/YVhSQuY.jpg

Furthermore I found that the SLI bridge needed to be installed BEFORE the G12 because the cut out was too small. Also that the foam "pegs" default position conflicted with the one and only power connector on my founders 1080s. Anyways onto the results. I'm sitting at 55C full load and 36Cish idle. No more thermal throttling and the cards are MUCH quieter. Oh I forgot to mention those temps are on the "silent" preset built into cam on both the pump and fans.

Side notes:

I choose to throw on A9 noctua fans and A-14s because I am already "invested" into the ugly fan club. :/
Yes I have the RGB X42's installed even though you can't see the face? Why? NZXT 6 year warranty and Gen 5 pump beat me over any other compatible AIO's on the market.
Yes, on an Asus crosshair hero 6 X370 you will need a ******* internal usb 2.0 splitter. This **** only has 1x usb2 header lol.
Yes my CPU fan cables are not managed, im waiting on a new bracket because the current one doesn't apply enough pressure onto the CPU. Getting 40C idle instead of 30C. Still safe for day-to-day but not ideal for a 160$ aio. New bracket comes in soon.


----------



## mnemo_05

I wonder why they didnt trim the side of the G12 to make it just 2-slot thick. Ive been using a thin 92mm on mine for the longest time and they push more than decent amount of air, fairly quiet too.. given i am using a pricey noctua, im sure nzxt should be able to provide something similar or at least something close to it.

On a case like mine (Core 500) the G10 touches the sidepanel


----------



## mnemo_05

I think I may have found a 1080 Ti to use with G10

MSI 1080 Ti Armour


it got a good looking mid plate and backplate, only missing heatsinks on 4 memory chips, should be able to use some low profile ram sinks on there as well as above the spot where the vms are.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> I think I may have found a 1080 Ti to use with G10
> 
> MSI 1080 Ti Armour
> 
> 
> it got a good looking mid plate and backplate, only missing heatsinks on 4 memory chips, should be able to use some low profile ram sinks on there as well as above the spot where the vms are.


Dont worry about the memory heatsinks. Its the VRM heatsinks that are at issue. The midplate has you covered there, just make sure to get a shim as the midplate probably rises up a little over the die and without a shim the pump cold plate will not make contact with the die.

Looking at the way the paste is spread on the removable cooler it may not be an issue but make sure.


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Dont worry about the memory heatsinks. Its the VRM heatsinks that are at issue. The midplate has you covered there, just make sure to get a shim as the midplate probably rises up a little over the die and without a shim the pump cold plate will not make contact with the die.
> 
> Looking at the way the paste is spread on the removable cooler it may not be an issue but make sure.


Hmm whether a shim is needed I guess will depend if the cold plate of my H75 fits that space between the mid plate. Judging from the screw placement though I think the cold plate will be able to clear it but I will still have to check. Will take a look at some H75 in the shops here and make the measurement, I am too lazy to take mine a part lol.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> Hmm whether a shim is needed I guess will depend if the cold plate of my H75 fits that space between the mid plate. Judging from the screw placement though I think the cold plate will be able to clear it but I will still have to check. Will take a look at some H75 in the shops here and make the measurement, I am too lazy to take mine a part lol.


I have some on the shelf if you just need a measurement


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> I have some on the shelf if you just need a measurement


oh sweet, what is the diameter of the cold plate?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> oh sweet, what is the diameter of the cold plate?


Im not at the office right this minute, I was when I posted that but i didnt see anything from you before i left. Remind me first thing in the am with a PM and I will measure it for you. If its an emergency as in your fixing to buy now I can call one of the guys at the office and get him to measure it for me.


----------



## stealth83

So I had big fears of using this on my Aorus 1080ti due to all the post Ive read about needing heatsinks and them falling off if you did use them or shorting the card out it the sinks touches something ect ect. I was bored yesterday and decided to make a list and take the 2 1/2 hour drive to MicroCenter (love that store).

Purchased the following,

1. NZXT Kraken G-10 bracket
2. NZXT Kraken X41 aio
3. CoolerMaster BladeMaster 92pwm fan
4. Thin thermal pads

Took my time and installed, I did change the 92mm fan on the braket to a better one with pwm so I could adjust, and used kryonaut on the chip. I left the backplate on and used a thermal pad, well actually 2 in between the copper on the back and the NZXT plate.

I am very very happy with this now, my max temps running Superposition Benchmark on extreme was around 64c, I did reach 71c one time only for some reason, maybe room temp idk. Now the max temp with Superposition Benchmark is 44c thats 20+c decrease. Idle temps before were between 30 and 34c, now its from 20 to 24c. I didnt expect that at all. as for the other parts that get cooled by the fan that had me so worried, with the aorus at stock the back plate would get very hot, I couldnt leave my hand on it and now I can leave my hand on the plate without a problem, I keep the CM fan at 2000rpm, it goes to 2800 but over 2000 you can hear it, at 2000 its silent and blows a ton of air. And heatsinks are not needed at all.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealth83*
> 
> So I had big fears of using this on my Aorus 1080ti due to all the post Ive read about needing heatsinks and them falling off if you did use them or shorting the card out it the sinks touches something ect ect. I was bored yesterday and decided to make a list and take the 2 1/2 hour drive to MicroCenter (love that store).
> 
> Purchased the following,
> 
> 1. NZXT Kraken G-10 bracket
> 2. NZXT Kraken X41 aio
> 3. CoolerMaster BladeMaster 92pwm fan
> 4. Thin thermal pads
> 
> Took my time and installed, I did change the 92mm fan on the braket to a better one with pwm so I could adjust, and used kryonaut on the chip. I left the backplate on and used a thermal pad, well actually 2 in between the copper on the back and the NZXT plate.
> 
> I am very very happy with this now, my max temps running Superposition Benchmark on extreme was around 64c, I did reach 71c one time only for some reason, maybe room temp idk. Now the max temp with Superposition Benchmark is 44c thats 20+c decrease. Idle temps before were between 30 and 34c, now its from 20 to 24c. I didnt expect that at all. as for the other parts that get cooled by the fan that had me so worried, with the aorus at stock the back plate would get very hot, I couldnt leave my hand on it and now I can leave my hand on the plate without a problem, I keep the CM fan at 2000rpm, it goes to 2800 but over 2000 you can hear it, at 2000 its silent and blows a ton of air. And heatsinks are not needed at all.
> 
> ]


Yeah the lower temps usually surprise people because so many people always bash the AIOs. They miss the point which is to simply take the heat generated by the GPU and just dump it out of the case and love them or hate them the CLC/AIOs do this job very easily, very well and very cheap. Not only do you get lower temps on the GPU but you get much less heat saturation of the other components inside the case. They also swap over to your new gpu when you get another. Mine have been on three different pair of GPUs so far


----------



## Carbon12

So just to confirm, the g10 will not work with a corsair h100i v2 right?


----------



## mnemo_05

^ you must use an AIO with the astek mount

NZXT : Kraken X61, Kraken X41, Kraken X31, Kraken X60, Kraken X40
Corsair : H105, H110, H90, H75, H55 , H50 (CW-9060006-WW only)
Antec : KUHLER H2O 920V4, KUHLER H2O 620V4, KUHLER H2O 920, KUHLER H2O 620
Thermaltake : Water 3.0 Extreme, Water 3.0 Pro, Water 3.0 Performer, Water 2.0 Extreme, Water 2.0 Pro, Water 2.0 Performer
Zalman : LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310


----------



## Carbon12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> ^ you must use an AIO with the astek mount
> 
> NZXT : Kraken X61, Kraken X41, Kraken X31, Kraken X60, Kraken X40
> Corsair : H105, H110, H90, H75, H55 , H50 (CW-9060006-WW only)
> Antec : KUHLER H2O 920V4, KUHLER H2O 620V4, KUHLER H2O 920, KUHLER H2O 620
> Thermaltake : Water 3.0 Extreme, Water 3.0 Pro, Water 3.0 Performer, Water 2.0 Extreme, Water 2.0 Pro, Water 2.0 Performer
> Zalman : LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310


It looks like an Astek under the square shroud haha


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carbon12*
> 
> So just to confirm, the g10 will not work with a corsair h100i v2 right?


https://support.nzxt.com/hc/en-us/articles/202479944-What-is-the-G10-compatible-with-


----------



## gtstcactus

What is the best 120mm AIO (in terms of cooling performance, not so fussed on noise) to use with the Kraken G10 or G12???

According to http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/68008-nzxt-kraken-x31-cpu-cooler-review-5.html the NZXT X31 is probably a better option than the Corsair H55 (I'm thinking probably the H75 also)... I can't really find much in the way of comparisons of 120mm AIOs of the Asetek style so it's hard to know which will keep my Asus Turbo 1080 cool...


----------



## mnemo_05

i would for go for the Antec 920 or Thermaltake Water 3.0 Pro if you can still find one and should your case will allow it. Pair it with a Swiftech Helix or a GT and you are good to go.

I was using a 920 before I switched case, kept my 980ti under 60c at low fan setting.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtstcactus*
> 
> What is the best 120mm AIO (in terms of cooling performance, not so fussed on noise) to use with the Kraken G10 or G12???
> 
> According to http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/68008-nzxt-kraken-x31-cpu-cooler-review-5.html the NZXT X31 is probably a better option than the Corsair H55 (I'm thinking probably the H75 also)... I can't really find much in the way of comparisons of 120mm AIOs of the Asetek style so it's hard to know which will keep my Asus Turbo 1080 cool...


Can you not fit a 140mm? The 140mm H-90 has been an excellent choice for me. NZXT should have an equivalent SKU. If you are stuck with 120mm you can go with a thicker radiator which will help a little. But the fact remains a simple H-55 or equivalent usually does the job just fine. The H-75 is pretty much just a H-55 that comes with two fans (im sure there is some other minor variation too).


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Can you not fit a 140mm? The 140mm H-90 has been an excellent choice for me. NZXT should have an equivalent SKU. If you are stuck with 120mm you can go with a thicker radiator which will help a little. But the fact remains a simple H-55 or equivalent usually does the job just fine. The H-75 is pretty much just a H-55 that comes with two fans (im sure there is some other minor variation too).


radiator wise the h55 and h75 are roughly the same. main difference is on the pump and yah i guess the fans included. since ive started using gt's though i never looked for any other 120mm fans, closes fan i can find that matches the gt are the helix from swiftech.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> radiator wise the h55 and h75 are roughly the same. main difference is on the pump and yah i guess the fans included. since ive started using gt's though i never looked for any other 120mm fans, closes fan i can find that matches the gt are the helix from swiftech.


On a whim, I went with Aerocool Dead Silence fans when I did this X99 build. They have performed beautifully and are actually significantly more quiet than what I was using. This was measured with a decibel meter and not just a "sounds quieter to me" observation, LOL. They ARE kind of pricey IMO but I can honestly say I like them better than any of the other fans Ive used to date including the nanoxias.

Now the CLC fans are always going to be more noisy due to the Fin density on the radiators, but a good fan can minimize the noise and even increase cooling performance a little over the fans that come in these CLC kits..


----------



## charlymacher

a bit late into the poll but, HOW WAS IT ON OVERCLOCKIN? DID IT IMPROVE PERFORMANCE? DID IT BOOST HIGHER DUE TO LOWER TEMPS??. im planning on doing this myself on my AMP EXTREME 980TI.

Cheers


----------



## charlymacher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrForeverAlone*
> 
> Kraken G10 + Kraken X31 on a Zotac NVIDIA GTX 980Ti AMP Extreme.
> 
> Just thought I'd post some pictures as I couldn't find anyone else on the internet who had tried water cooling a Zotac Amp Extreme.
> 
> For those of you who don't know the Amp Extreme is a beast of a card with the second highest (that I'm currently aware of) factory over clock available. Downside is that this card is a massive, oversized triple slot job. So when I had the bright idea to get two in SLI it left me with no room for air cooling in my mid tower case.
> 
> So here's what I ended up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The X31 pump and G10 fan are plugged into the GPU fan header for a total draw of 0.475mA which until I hear back from Zotac otherwise I'm going to assume the card can handle easily.
> This also cuts down on cables to hide. Also left the USB for the pump unconnected since all it does is allow me to change the pump speed. With it disconnected it just runs at standard which is fine for me.
> 
> Current temps are 25c to 28c at idle and a couple of hours of heavy gaming couldn't get the temps above 60c, it pretty much hit 56c - 57c and stayed which is amazing considering It's only a cheap 120m rad with one fan at the moment.
> 
> I also managed to leave the black plate on as I play by no one else's rules. Does a great job of hiding the extra cables...


Did you have to use a copper shim for the GPU?, or a standart FLAT BASE AIO water cooler can do the job?. did it boost higher do to lower temps?, did your overclock increase due to power limits(more power available, cuz of less fans to run) ???


----------



## Aquakitty

Has anyone here confirmed this would fit/work on an RX 580? PCB pic:


----------



## gtstcactus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Can you not fit a 140mm? The 140mm H-90 has been an excellent choice for me. NZXT should have an equivalent SKU. If you are stuck with 120mm you can go with a thicker radiator which will help a little. But the fact remains a simple H-55 or equivalent usually does the job just fine. The H-75 is pretty much just a H-55 that comes with two fans (im sure there is some other minor variation too).


My case is limited to 120mm & 240mm sized... I've got a Cooler Master Nepton 240M cooling the CPU, which leaves me with only 120mm options for the GPU...

I don't think I'll use the H55 or H75 after seeing a comparison where the H55 lagged behind the X31 in cooling performance..

What I really should do is get a Bitspower full cover water block for my GPU and swap the Nepton out for a Swiftech 220.. but that's probably not going to happen for a while so I've got to decide which 120mm is best in the interim..


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquakitty*
> 
> Has anyone here confirmed this would fit/work on an RX 580? PCB pic:


The VRMs on those two examples are on the output side of the GPU die. The G-10 is designed with a fan to cool the VRMs mounted to the rear of the GPU die. The mount will work for mounting the pump to the GPU but you will have to rig up a cooling solution for the VRMs on those examples. It is cheap to do and easily accomplished (I did it on the pair of GTX 970s I ran), just requires a little extra work..


----------



## Aquakitty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The VRMs on those two examples are on the output side of the GPU die. The G-10 is designed with a fan to cool the VRMs mounted to the rear of the GPU die. The mount will work for mounting the pump to the GPU but you will have to rig up a cooling solution for the VRMs on those examples. It is cheap to do and easily accomplished (I did it on the pair of GTX 970s I ran), just requires a little extra work..


You mean to the left/right of the die? Do you have pics of your GTX 970 solution?

Bykski just came out with a full-cover block but of course not for my model of card.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquakitty*
> 
> You mean to the left/right of the die? Do you have pics of your GTX 970 solution?
> 
> Bykski just came out with a full-cover block but of course not for my model of card.


No I dont have any pictures of the solution I made. It was just a simple fan mounted to blow straight down on the VRMs.


----------



## Aquakitty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> No I dont have any pictures of the solution I made. It was just a simple fan mounted to blow straight down on the VRMs.


The row to the left looking at the picture, right? What about all the tiny square boxes (mosfets)? I know I need to cool the chip, the DDR around the chip, and the VRAM, but what about all those little mosfet squares?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquakitty*
> 
> The row to the left looking at the picture, right? What about all the tiny square boxes (mosfets)? I know I need to cool the chip, the DDR around the chip, and the VRAM, but what about all those little mosfet squares?


The best way to determine what needs to be cooled with your VRM/Mosfets is to look at what the cooler that came with it was covering/cooling directly. The VRAM chips do not get that hot. Some people put heat sinks on there but I do not recommend it unless you plan on playing a lot with overclocking the VRAM. I went through a lot of trouble with the VRAM on a couple of GPUs for almost no noticeable gain. That's not to say this GPU wouldn't benefit. It just wouldn't be a priority to me.

Looking at those pics above, the white, what appears to be thermal tape, on the top GPU appears to be over the chokes.


----------



## Aquakitty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The best way to determine what needs to be cooled with your VRM/Mosfets is to look at what the cooler that came with it was covering/cooling directly. The VRAM chips do not get that hot. Some people put heat sinks on there but I do not recommend it unless you plan on playing a lot with overclocking the VRAM. I went through a lot of trouble with the VRAM on a couple of GPUs for almost no noticeable gain. That's not to say this GPU wouldn't benefit. It just wouldn't be a priority to me.
> 
> Looking at those pics above, the white, what appears to be thermal tape, on the top GPU appears to be over the chokes.


Yea, good point. I did use a universal block years ago and messed with those stick-on VRAM coolers. They kept falling off and got in the way of the tubing.


----------



## soureraser

If anyone is curious, MSI 1080 Ti Armor does fit with G10 and you do not need copper shim for it. It will contact the cooler directly unlike my EVGA 1080 SC ACX 3.0

Comparing to my MSI 1070 Gaming X (which also was compatible with G10 and did not require shim), it looks like they did not change their pcb design/layout so midplate got you covered for VRM.

IMO, MSI cards are the way to go for AIO cooling compared to other cards which will require extra heatsinks, shim or weirdly placed VRMs


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soureraser*
> 
> If anyone is curious, MSI 1080 Ti Armor does fit with G10 and you do not need copper shim for it. It will contact the cooler directly unlike my EVGA 1080 SC ACX 3.0
> 
> Comparing to my MSI 1070 Gaming X (which also was compatible with G10 and did not require shim), it looks like they did not change their pcb design/layout so midplate got you covered for VRM.
> 
> IMO, MSI cards are the way to go for AIO cooling compared to other cards which will require extra heatsinks, shim or weirdly placed VRMs


thanks for the info champ, was eyeing that 1080ti model because it has a midplate.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soureraser*
> 
> If anyone is curious, MSI 1080 Ti Armor does fit with G10 and you do not need copper shim for it. It will contact the cooler directly unlike my EVGA 1080 SC ACX 3.0
> 
> Comparing to my MSI 1070 Gaming X (which also was compatible with G10 and did not require shim), it looks like they did not change their pcb design/layout so midplate got you covered for VRM.
> 
> IMO, MSI cards are the way to go for AIO cooling compared to other cards which will require extra heatsinks, shim or weirdly placed VRMs


What sort of temps did you get with your MSI 1070 Gaming x and the G10?


----------



## soureraser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> What sort of temps did you get with your MSI 1070 Gaming x and the G10?


I first used it on my Corsair Carbide 100r with push&pull config at 850rpm with Noctua F12s which resulted around 52-53 degrees but my CPU got hot as balls and exceeded 80 degrees.
So I moved it to NZXT S340 using same setup and yielded around 59-62 degrees. However my CPU never went over 70.


----------



## clubfoot

I was thnking of adding a G10 to my upper MSI 1070 z but it already runs below 60 in games. I was hoping the temps would be much lower. I previously had 2x7950s both with G10s with Corsair H75s and they ran very cool <55. Not sure if I should now


----------



## mnemo_05

@clubfoot

if you already running below 60c in games with tolerable noise, then it is not work the hassle. I used the G10 on my 980Ti primarily for the silence if offers as my rig sit on the right side of my table.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> @clubfoot
> 
> if you already running below 60c in games with tolerable noise, then it is not work the hassle. I used the G10 on my 980Ti primarily for the silence if offers as my rig sit on the right side of my table.


The average temps i see at gaming stress is 47 to 52C (this is in SLI configuration)., However I agree with the above post, if your under 60C under gaming conditions its not worth the trouble. The newer GPUs simply run much cooler than the the older gpus and the gains from overclocking are pretty minimal to imo after maxwell. Really no need unless your in SLI or you do not have good airflow in the case which can add some Cs to the setup.


----------



## soureraser

Like others have said, I wouldn't necessarily upgrade for sake of upgrading. It sounds like you are happy with your card.
I only did it for quietness (temperature was secondary) because the 1080 ACX 3.0 cooler sounded like jet engine taking off while hovering over 74C.


----------



## MIenEsEFOoL

I'm having problems with a K12 + Corsair H55 combo added onto a Gigabyte GV-N1080TTOC-8GD. Temps are great at idle 30C and gaming load 50-60C, but games crash and drivers die. No idea whats going on, reference cooler was stable with OC, it was just loud, so I tried the K12. I've even tried resetting everything to stock settings to rule out unstable OCs. Any ideas would be appreciated


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIenEsEFOoL*
> 
> I'm having problems with a K12 + Corsair H55 combo added onto a Gigabyte GV-N1080TTOC-8GD. Temps are great at idle 30C and gaming load 50-60C, but games crash and drivers die. No idea whats going on, reference cooler was stable with OC, it was just loud, so I tried the K12. I've even tried resetting everything to stock settings to rule out unstable OCs. Any ideas would be appreciated


OK,

Do you have a photograph of the graphics card PCB after you removed the factory cooler? Where are the VRMs in relation to the GPU die?

It sounds like your VRMs may be overheating.


----------



## MIenEsEFOoL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> OK,
> 
> Do you have a photograph of the graphics card PCB after you removed the factory cooler? Where are the VRMs in relation to the GPU die?
> 
> It sounds like your VRMs may be overheating.



Pic of PCB alongside the stock heatsink for reference. So I'm guessing the overheating parts are the r36/r68 boxes? I thought the included 92mm fan wouldve been enough active cooling, maybe I need heatpads on them for better dissapation?


----------



## gtstcactus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIenEsEFOoL*
> 
> 
> Pic of PCB alongside the stock heatsink for reference. So I'm guessing the overheating parts are the r36/r68 boxes? I thought the included 92mm fan wouldve been enough active cooling, maybe I need heatpads on them for better dissapation?


On many cards just the 92mm fan is enough to cool the VRAM & VRMs but I've seen plenty of reports where people have NEEDED the little heat sinks on the VRM / VRAM to keep the temperatures under control for those components..


----------



## mnemo_05

vrams are fine without the heatsink, would be nice if you have them though

VRMs on the other hand will need adequate cooling. slapping a heat sink on those will increase stability, they are the ones regulating voltage to your whole video card after all.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> vrams are fine without the heatsink, would be nice if you have them though
> 
> VRMs on the other hand will need adequate cooling. slapping a heat sink on those will increase stability, they are the ones regulating voltage to your whole video card after all.


What he said. You need to remove the adhesive material that comes over the VRMs if you have not already and place heatsinks on the VRMs. This is absolutely necessary. Heatsinks on VRAM is never a bad idea but is optional.


----------



## MIenEsEFOoL

Thanks for all the help. Just as an update I bought some heatpads for 10 bucks on amazon, applied them on all vrms and vram and all is good. For some reason BF1 is still unstable, but that's probably just an unrelated issue, all my other games work fine. Those sexy core temps tho: 30C idle and 45-50C load mmmmmhmmmm







and ofc much less noise


----------



## mnemo_05

i dont think heatpads will be enough in the long run, you need something to dissipate the heat. heatpads plus some low profile ram sinks will be ideal


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> i dont think heatpads will be enough in the long run, you need something to dissipate the heat. heatpads plus some low profile ram sinks will be ideal


I agree. The thermal pads are made to transfer the heat from a chip through the thermal pad to a heat sink and, as far as I know, are not designed to be a cooling solution in their own right. There are some single heat sink vrm solutions out that you may be able to fit to your GPU. They are mostly a universal design but with a little work can be adapted to most anything. Here is an example of what im talking about.


https://www.amazon.com/Icy-Vision-HD6900-Cooling-Enhancement/dp/B0055DILCG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495289176&sr=8-1&keywords=vrm+heatsink+kit

Im not saying THIS IS THE KIT!!!!! Im just giving you one example of the things that are out ther3e that you can perhaps bend to your will







Ive made heat sinks for VRMs out of parts from old retired systems. A lot of older GPUs used a heatsink only for cooling and with a little work can usually be nicely cut, drilled and finished for almost no money out of pocket. Ive used raspberry pi heat sinks as well. Occasionally an old cpu heatsink can be made to work assuming the dimensions are a good start point..

Then of course you can simply use thermal tape and apply something like this


Which i believe most people do. Cheap and easy. Copper is better but of course harder to keep on. The aluminum sinks are usually good enough.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> @clubfoot
> 
> if you already running below 60c in games with tolerable noise, then it is not work the hassle. I used the G10 on my 980Ti primarily for the silence if offers as my rig sit on the right side of my table.


Thanks everyone. Yes, it is SLi and of course the top card runs warmer than the bottom card. Case is a Corsair 750D Airflow with a full compliment of fans. Unless I run Fire Strike it doesn't go over 60c.

Thanks again.


----------



## gtstcactus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Copper is better but of course harder to keep on. The aluminum sinks are usually good enough.


Excuse my ignorance..... Do copper heat sinks not stick well upside down when using thermal glue paste type stuff / or thermal pads compared to aluminium??

I tried to google it but didn't find anything..

I'm thinking of using the G10 / G12 with heat sinks and was keen on using copper..


----------



## mnemo_05

not the material per se but more on the weight as copper heatsinks are heavier compared to alus

I never had issues though with any ram sinks i slapped on my gpu mems, I use alphacool thermal tape

btw im not happy with the temps im getting from my 980ti+g10/H75 set up.. im hitting 73c while playing gta v with 30c ambient.. problem is if i go with thick rads such as an antec 920 or Tt 3.0, ill end up installing the fan outside of my case







im torn at the moment


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> not the material per se but more on the weight as copper heatsinks are heavier compared to alus
> 
> I never had issues though with any ram sinks i slapped on my gpu mems, I use alphacool thermal tape
> 
> btw im not happy with the temps im getting from my 980ti+g10/H75 set up.. im hitting 73c while playing gta v with 30c ambient.. problem is if i go with thick rads such as an antec 920 or Tt 3.0, ill end up installing the fan outside of my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im torn at the moment


Those temps sound high. How are they compared to others running a 980ti and similar?

I would reseat and verify all fans at full and pump on full 12v. My GPUs are 980 nonti but in SLI neither ever exceed 55C, is the radiant exhausting heat from the case or is it set to intake?


----------



## mnemo_05

it is more my case rather than the mount. i run it at +175mhz all the time, if i leave the case open my max hovers around 60c. all my rads are exhaust given the size of my case.

i can't improve the airflow any longer, switching to thick rad i guess is my only option if ever. i have already modded the front to have an intake and had custom cables made to minimize the clutter.

i can play around with the fan curve but i hate noisy rigs, ahahaha!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> it is more my case rather than the mount. i run it at +175mhz all the time, if i leave the case open my max hovers around 60c. all my rads are exhaust given the size of my case.
> 
> i can't improve the airflow any longer, switching to thick rad i guess is my only option if ever. i have already modded the front to have an intake and had custom cables made to minimize the clutter.
> 
> i can play around with the fan curve but i hate noisy rigs, ahahaha!


Well dont be scared to mount a fan externally on the case. There are ways to do it and not have it look ghetto. All my radiator fans are actually mounted externally with fan shrouding and free flow grills. I dont think it looks bad in the slightest. It defiintely works fine in my setup anyway and allowed me to keep a case I like. I have looked for a larger new case that I both like and that im willing to pay a small fortune for and so far I have not found it.


----------



## majnu

Hi

So it's upgrade time and I still have my G10 and Corsair H55. This worked tremendously well with the MSI Gaming 980ti as it was pretty much "plug and play".

Which 1080ti cards will work with the G10 bracket? I have seen there is G12 now so if it buying that increases my options I will go that way.

Since MSI allowed cooler removal without voiding warranty and had good warranty cover I will need a GPU that allows the same. I'm considering the EVGA FE and Gigabyte Aorus (if they are compatible)

Thanks


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Hi
> 
> So it's upgrade time and I still have my G10 and Corsair H55. This worked tremendously well with the MSI Gaming 980ti as it was pretty much "plug and play".
> 
> Which 1080ti cards will work with the G10 bracket? I have seen there is G12 now so if it buying that increases my options I will go that way.
> 
> Since MSI allowed cooler removal without voiding warranty and had good warranty cover I will need a GPU that allows the same. I'm considering the EVGA FE and Gigabyte Aorus (if they are compatible)
> 
> Thanks


Installation is the the same. It is my understanding the G-12 adds support of additional coolers that the G-10 does not, but I would try the H-55/G-10 out on the 1080ti and see how it does before dumping it. Should do fine if it was getting the job done on your 980ti. Temps are still a strong point for NVIDIA with the 1080ti. Ive reused the same G-10 brackets and H-90 coolers across three pair of GPUs so far. 770 SLI - 970 SLI and 980 SLI.

I would suggest do your research on the GPUs your interested in and see which ones have VRM heatsinks that are connected to the PCB and not part of the removable cooler. Also remember to check and make sure the VRM's are to the rear of the GPU die. This will simplify your installation and reduce the time to do it.


----------



## Cobra652

Hi!
I dont find the answer...
Arctic liquid freezer (120) is compatible with g10???
Its asetek..But the top of the header is wider than other AIO asetek coolers....


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> Hi!
> I dont find the answer...
> Arctic liquid freezer (120) is compatible with g10???
> Its asetek..But the top of the header is wider than other AIO asetek coolers....


It doesnt show as compatible in the G-10 manual but then again it doesnt show up at all. I do not believe it sells near as well as some others. Anyway, a quick google search shows some people confirming it does in fact work with the G-10 https://www.reddit.com/r/NZXT/comments/68bjlp/kraken_g10_arctic_liquid_freezer_120/ but if it is based on the latest asetek design released like the newest NZXT coolers it may need the G-12. Same basic product, just fits some newer designs. Your best bet is to confirm with NZXT tech support. They are pretty good at responding to these queries.


----------



## BigBeard86

What is currently the best 1080ti to buy that is out the box compatible with the g10?

I don't care about built in vrm plates...I rather add my own heatsinks.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> What is currently the best 1080ti to buy that is out the box compatible with the g10?
> 
> I don't care about built in vrm plates...I rather add my own heatsinks.


I would get the best electrical components available, look for long life chokes, caps etc. Usually these type systems will have a higher power phase count. I would make sure the VRM components are to the rear of the GPU die so the fan and sinks you add can do their job, I would make sure that the card is well supported with a strong backplate and framing etc so they do not sag. And of course make sure you have all the connections you need and or will need. Some ram overclocks better than others, do your research here and choose accordingly if you plan on overclocking the memory heavily. Make sure its attractive to you, this is important to some people, to have it match their color schemes. As for which is best, as you can see there are a lot of factors that might make one best for some and not others. Sorry if this doesnt directly answer the question What is best"

My personal choice would be the ASUS Strix version but its no secret im an ASUS fanboy.


----------



## MEC-777

Would like to get the new kraken G12 for my 1070 FE, but can't find it available for purchase anywhere in Canada yet.


----------



## stealth83

Im at ease now and maybe you will be to, I have the Kraken for about a month now and havent had one problem, but I see some saying that heat sinks on the vram and mosfets is a must and I tend to worry about these things, I cant just go buy a replacement card if I blow it up.

So I took some readings today, my highest temp with superpositin 3/4 through the run was 47c at the Kraken backplate.

I took the temp a few seconds after of the furthest vram from the fan and its temp was 27c

The temp of the backplate right above the mosfets was 32c and under that same spot was 25c but of course the fan is right there blowing a ton of air.









I scanned the whole card from top to bottom, side to side with super was running and the highest temp anywhere was the kraken backplate at 47c

I dont think ant heatsinks are needed and I am at ease now.

Also need to mention that I did change the stock fan to a CoolerMaster BladeMaster 92pwm fan and I have it fixed at 2000rpm, it blows a ton of air and I can feel it nicely down the far end of the card hitting the vrams.


----------



## kruger-druger

Guys, is anybody using 1080ti with 2x140 rad (like corsair h110 for example), what fans rpm and temps do you get? I'm planning to build super quiet build. Is it enough 700 rpm, maybe with downclocking a bit or push-pull fans setup?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kruger-druger*
> 
> Guys, is anybody using 1080ti with 2x140 rad (like corsair h110 for example), what fans rpm and temps do you get? I'm planning to build super quiet build. Is it enough 700 rpm, maybe with downclocking a bit or push-pull fans setup?


This is tricky but from my Radiator estimator, you should expect a delta T of roughly 36-40 degrees with the fans at 700RPM.


----------



## kruger-druger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> This is tricky but from my Radiator estimator, you should expect a delta T of roughly 36-40 degrees with the fans at 700RPM.


Cool, thanks. This is okay for me.


----------



## slickric21

Just a heads up, the Kraken G10 will only fit an eVGA 1080ti ICX (SC Black edition or SC2) with a copper shim that is at least 1.5mm thick, preferably more.

I have a 25x25x1.6m shin (odd thickness yes I know- got here in Uk) and the G10 only just fits with some bending and adjusting.

Reason being is that this card as a really good mid plate, but just next to the GPU socket is a line of tall conical shaped heat pipes built into the plate. They will prevent good contact between the G10 and the AIO.



I had to bend my G10 literally so this area of the mid plate wouldn't stop me screwing the AIO on tight.
It only just makes contact with the GPU.

A 2mm shin would probably solve the problem as it would raise the height sufficiently to stop the mid plates hipepipes preventing you from tightening.

Anyway all installed now.

Corsair H75, card at 2000/11880 and load temps 45-50'c


----------



## MEC-777

Was finally able to order a G12 through Amazon.ca. They just started carrying it 2 days ago. Should arrive some time next week. Will post up with the results.


----------



## majnu

Guys what are your load temps? Mine are higher than what I used to get with the 980ti.

I have paired mine with a Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti. G10 and H55. I'm using Thermal Grizzly Kryo and my ambients are 22.1c. I installed the cooler finger tight and then secured it tightly using a screwdriver.
Corsair 650D case, so plenty of airflow with 2X220mm intake fans and 2X120mm Scythe AP15s as exhausts on the Corsair H55 (1000rpm)

1080ti
Idle 28c Load 60c using MSI AB and verified with HWInfo64 also. This is playing 10 mins into The Division.

I'll dig through this thread and see what my 980ti temps were


----------



## mnemo_05

my 980ti+ g10 + H75 single fan with mild OC peaks at 65c when gaming, touches 73c when benching

my case though is not ideal as I am with a Fractal Core 500, used the noctua nt-h1, pretty good tim =)


----------



## slickric21

Just upgraded the fans on my H75 to x2 Noctua NF 120 pwm.

Shaved a few degrees off and quieter than Corsair ones.

Now running 2012 on core (holds steady 2000mhz during benchmark/gaming) and 12000mhz on ram.

Load temps benchmarking 47'c
Gaming 40-45'c

This is with a copper shim 25x25x1.6mm as per my post a few up.
GC Extreme thermal paste used btw









Well happy as these temps are lower than my 989tis which were about 51'c load under benchmark, and almost as good as the eVGA 1080 ftw Hybrid the Ti has just replaced !!!!


----------



## Ultisym

Load temps for me can get up to 55C + or -

Gaming loads range from 45C to 49C.

This is on a pair or plain 980s that are overclocked.


----------



## majnu

Thanks guys.

It's more for my sanity. I know something isn't right. I've taken the card apart 4 times (re-tim'd every time) but I'm mystified how that one youtuber (with a Aorus and G10 too) has managed to get ideal temps without:

a) Either taking the backplate off and not telling or
b) Has screws had less tollerances than the one I got and are atleast 1-2mm longer or
c) They brought longer screws if they retained the backplate or
d) They resorted to dremelling their card near where the power is plugged as that bit catches. or
e) They went extra Gorilla mode tightening the screws


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thanks guys.
> 
> It's more for my sanity. I know something isn't right. I've taken the card apart 4 times (re-tim'd every time) but I'm mystified how that one youtuber (with a Aorus and G10 too) has managed to get ideal temps without:
> 
> a) Either taking the backplate off and not telling or
> b) Has screws had less tollerances than the one I got and are atleast 1-2mm longer or
> c) They brought longer screws if they retained the backplate or
> d) They resorted to dremelling their card near where the power is plugged as that bit catches. or
> e) They went extra Gorilla mode tightening the screws


Im not familiar with the youtube video your referring to, but there is no problem keeping the back plate that came on your GPU, you simply skip the NZXT back plate and use washers on the screws that came with the kit. Some people just remove the foam padding on the small NZXT plate and use it on top of the existing backplate as well.


----------



## stealth83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thanks guys.
> 
> It's more for my sanity. I know something isn't right. I've taken the card apart 4 times (re-tim'd every time) but I'm mystified how that one youtuber (with a Aorus and G10 too) has managed to get ideal temps without:
> 
> a) Either taking the backplate off and not telling or
> b) Has screws had less tollerances than the one I got and are atleast 1-2mm longer or
> c) They brought longer screws if they retained the backplate or
> d) They resorted to dremelling their card near where the power is plugged as that bit catches. or
> e) They went extra Gorilla mode tightening the screws


I had no problem installing mine, and I did none of those things you mentioned.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im not familiar with the youtube video your referring to, but there is no problem keeping the back plate that came on your GPU, you simply skip the NZXT back plate and use washers on the screws that came with the kit. Some people just remove the foam padding on the small NZXT plate and use it on top of the existing backplate as well.


Thats probably the problem, I was trying to figure out why hes having such a hard time as mine went on without a problem. I forgot about the padding. Did you remove it?


----------



## knopflerbruce

What 1080ti models have a dedicated heat"sink" for VRM/vMEM? I guess those are good candidates for a Kraken G10 based soluton. EVGA SC2 from page 626 seems to be one such card, and perhaps ASUS 1080ti Strix is another.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knopflerbruce*
> 
> What 1080ti models have a dedicated heat"sink" for VRM/vMEM? I guess those are good candidates for a Kraken G10 based soluton. EVGA SC2 from page 626 seems to be one such card, and perhaps ASUS 1080ti Strix is another.


The Zotac also has a VRM heatsink but the MOSFETs are so crap + inefficient that I doubt a G10 can keep it adequately cool.

By far the best candidate for G10 modding is the ASUS Strix because the VRMs are not only heatsinked but use extremely high efficiency (IIRC like 91%+) MOSFETs which generate minimal heat.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> By far the best candidate for G10 modding is the ASUS Strix because the VRMs are not only heatsinked but use extremely high efficiency (IIRC like 91%+) MOSFETs which generate minimal heat.


Are you certain? I use ASUS for GPUs exclusively and ever since the DirectCUII cooling setup (Long before Strix} "most" have had a VRM heat sink attached to the PCB and not the removable cooler. But there have been one or two exceptions im aware of. I would suggest he find pictures from a review where the GPU was disassembled and make sure as it s a big money item.

As for ASUS using high quality electrical components, thats one of the main reasons I use them exclusively.


----------



## MEC-777

Got the G12 installed on the 1070 last night. So far, very impressed. Did you know you don't actually need the fan on the rad running unless under load? It's been running all day at 33-34C with just the pump circulating the water through the rad with YT videos playing. Ambient room temp is about 23-25C.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Got the G12 installed on the 1070 last night. So far, very impressed. Did you know you don't actually need the fan on the rad running unless under load? It's been running all day at 33-34C with just the pump circulating the water through the rad with YT videos playing. Ambient room temp is about 23-25C.


Yeah but your temps shoot up sharply once you hit a graphically intense game.


----------



## Storx

I was curious what type of temps the folks with the 1080ti's are seeing with this kit installed, also are you using single fan or dual fan AIO on your kits for cooling, doing some research to possibly convert 8 1080ti's to this kit for temperature control.....


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah but your temps shoot up sharply once you hit a graphically intense game.


Note I said "unless under load".







Even still, the temps shouldn't just "shoot up sharply". If you keep the rad fan off, temps will initially increase to a point as normal, but then continue to steadily increase as the rad alone won't be able to transfer enough heat without air moving through it via the fan. But at idle and under low loads, there does seem to be sufficient heat transfer without air moving through the rad. For a 1070 at least.


----------



## knopflerbruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Are you certain? I use ASUS for GPUs exclusively and ever since the DirectCUII cooling setup (Long before Strix} "most" have had a VRM heat sink attached to the PCB and not the removable cooler. But there have been one or two exceptions im aware of. I would suggest he find pictures from a review where the GPU was disassembled and make sure as it s a big money item.
> 
> As for ASUS using high quality electrical components, thats one of the main reasons I use them exclusively.


Here's the Strix OC: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GTX_1080_Ti_Strix_OC/images/cooler4.jpg

For some reason, MSI changed their minds and went the other way - from VRM sink to an "all in one"-solution. I was about to buy an MSI, but glad I googled first!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knopflerbruce*
> 
> Here's the Strix OC: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GTX_1080_Ti_Strix_OC/images/cooler4.jpg
> 
> For some reason, MSI changed their minds and went the other way - from VRM sink to an "all in one"-solution. I was about to buy an MSI, but glad I googled first!


All vendors change their designs occasionally, thats why i suggested check and verify, Ive told someone the Strix would have the Heat sink mounted to the PCB on, i think it was a 980ti and was dead wrong.

The Strix in that link has a half plate which you can make work. I think most people just put heat sinks right on top of their location over the half plate if they add them at all. The half plate does a decent job of dissipating the heat as long as a fans on it. Should do fine though you will likely need a shim to male sure the cold plate seats properly on the GPU die.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Note I said "unless under load".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even still, the temps shouldn't just "shoot up sharply". If you keep the rad fan off, temps will initially increase to a point as normal, but then continue to steadily increase as the rad alone won't be able to transfer enough heat without air moving through it via the fan. But at idle and under low loads, there does seem to be sufficient heat transfer without air moving through the rad. For a 1070 at least.


The temps rise pretty quick, but your right, they do not shoot straight to the highest temp. Perhaps i was over generalizing It is an S curve. My GPUs typically run around 30C idle. After starting a graphically intense app the temps will hit 40C in less then a minute, 45C within 2 or 3 minutes and then slowly build to a max temp......or not. From here it varies a couple degrees C on the max temp. Note these are just observations based on my rig.


----------



## MEC-777

Some pics...


----------



## Ultisym

Looks good. I think your the first ive seen paint the tanks on the radiator of an AIO.


----------



## mnemo_05

sweet rig! now, are those top fans solely for exhaust? and are you running that HSF on the 4770k as passive?!?!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The temps rise pretty quick, but your right, they do not shoot straight to the highest temp. Perhaps i was over generalizing It is an S curve. My GPUs typically run around 30C idle. After starting a graphically intense app the temps will hit 40C in less then a minute, 45C within 2 or 3 minutes and then slowly build to a max temp......or not. From here it varies a couple degrees C on the max temp. Note these are just observations based on my rig.


Thats actually what worries me the most about the ASUS Strix. The heatsinking is a little too good which might cause issues with AIO mounting. Unless a design with a small coldplate is used.
The only other cards I can think of that may be good candidates are the Galax HOF and the EVGA KingPin/Classified. Both have decoupled VRM cooling because of LN2 capabilities. However, IIRC I don't think the HOF has VRAM plating whereas the KingPin does. On the other hand, if one is to go through the effort of getting a KingPin, might as well go full waterblock lol.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Im not familiar with the youtube video your referring to, but there is no problem keeping the back plate that came on your GPU, you simply skip the NZXT back plate and use washers on the screws that came with the kit. Some people just remove the foam padding on the small NZXT plate and use it on top of the existing backplate as well.


Hiya

This video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkN_KTZpCQs

I think people are running their benches in 1080p or using 4K with Vsync which does affect temps. I run superposition in extreme 1440p and temps just rocket. When I use the 1080p extreme profile temps are what everyone else gets (47-48c). But to be fair I didn't get a 1080ti so I can play at 1080p or Low settings. The card draws alot of power and some people have mentioned as much as 300W TDP so it's going to be hotter than my 980ti.
Additionally just to rule out the H55 was the problem I bought another one and temps are still the same.

So are you saying that I should just not use the NZXT backplate and use the screws and washers instead?
Edit - So I have taken the NZXT backplate off and used screws and just the washers. This gave me more room to securely tighten down the thumb nuts from the top and the temps are no different.

I can only assume people are running their tests at 1080p or Vsync, Have fans running at 100%, use 240mm rads, or just have extremely lower ambient temps.

My runs are basically more or less the same as the Seahawk that TTL tested

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Xa6BhXlNqc


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Looks good. I think your the first ive seen paint the tanks on the radiator of an AIO.


Thanks. Yeah, I used plastidip so it can be removed later if I decide to change it back to black.









With the rad fan off, it peaked at 35C with light use. I use a program called Speedfan to control all the system fans. The bottom intake (and rad) fan are set to come on when the GPU hits about 42C and ramp up to 60% max when the GPU hits about 50C. At 60% with 1 fan in push on the rad, looping Heaven benchmark, the core temps peak at around 53-55C. I'm going to add another fan on the inside to make it push-pull on the rad which should help bring temps down a bit more and only need to run the fans at perhaps 50% max instead. Keep the temps and noise down, though it is very quiet as-is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> sweet rig! now, are those top fans solely for exhaust? and are you running that HSF on the 4770k as passive?!?!


Yep, top fans are exhaust. Like the intake fans, they don't come on until the GPU hits about 45-50C and only ramp up to 40% max. And yes, the CPU is running passive at the moment. It's not quite enough once it really gets loaded up. During the CPU test of the Time Spy benchmark, 3 of the 4 cores hit 81C, lol. Having the rear fan as intake with a curve that reacts to the CPU temps helps (it too stays off until the CPU hits a certain temp) but it's not close enough to push enough air through the cooler when it really needs it. I'll be moving that rear fan and mounting it on the cooler instead of on the case, then it will be totally fine (and semi-passive). As it is, having that rear fan as intake makes a slight buzzing sound because of the grate pattern on the fan mount. So moving that fan over to the cooler will also make it that much quieter.







It's not a loud buzz, but it's enough to bother my OCD, lol.


----------



## cms062407

Hello,

I recently purchased the Kraken and have a question as far as install.

Is it 100% necessary to install heatsinks and thermal pads on the VRMs and memory module before installing? Also, I see there is some stock thermal pads under the stock cooler, should I remove those as well?

Do I just leave everything completely exposed and rely on the 92mm fan that NZXT provides to do ALL the cooling?

If it matters, I have a STRIX 1080 TI OC edition. I certainly do not want to install it and my VRMs and memory modules overheat and ruin my $800 card









Thank you, and I hope that made sense


----------



## knopflerbruce

The Ti seems to have a VRM plate. Can't say if it's enough or not, but it shouldn't be so insufficient that it'll blow up instantly. I'd give it a shot, and watch the VRM temp (not sure if there a sensor for that or not)


----------



## cms062407

Thanks for the reply...yes, there seems to be some sort of plate that covers several components, I am attaching a link below with a picture. I guess that is covering the memory modules...I do wonder if I should remove it, though, since the airflow from the Kraken will never reach what is under that plate.

Should I at least remove that pink thermal pad? I am not sure what that is even covering, actually...

unfortunately, there is no way to monitor the VRM temps with this card







only the EVGA FTW3 has extra sensors that monitor VRM temps.


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms062407*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I recently purchased the Kraken and have a question as far as install.
> 
> Is it 100% necessary to install heatsinks and thermal pads on the VRMs and memory module before installing? Also, I see there is some stock thermal pads under the stock cooler, should I remove those as well?
> 
> Do I just leave everything completely exposed and rely on the 92mm fan that NZXT provides to do ALL the cooling?
> 
> If it matters, I have a STRIX 1080 TI OC edition. I certainly do not want to install it and my VRMs and memory modules overheat and ruin my $800 card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, and I hope that made sense


1080ti strix is the best card to use a g10/g12 on imo..

with the mid plate of this card, you dont necessarily need to add any heatsink. I mean you may if you want for peace on mind, but unless you are to OC the ***** out of the VRAM, you should be fine

you can also change the stock 92mm to something better, but for most users the stock fan is enough. I for one changed it to the noctua 92mm for better performance and silence


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms062407*
> 
> .
> 
> Should I at least remove that pink thermal pad? I am not sure what that is even covering, actually...


that is simply covering the plate underneath it, you may remove it. It is there to somehow make contact with the fins of the cooler.

you may also put some low profile heatsink on the part where you removed the pink thermal pad, it is where your VRMs are and they can get toasty when you OC.


----------



## MEC-777

All dialed in now. Highest core temp during testing (looping Heaven for about 1 hour) was 50C with overclock, ran fans in push-pull at 50%.


----------



## cms062407

Ahh may, cool.

Well, I installed the G12 last night with no issues. I am using an extra 360mm thermaltake AIO I had laying around and this this is crazy....my temps NEVER got past 34 degrees after stress testing for 1 hour!! Idle is around 28...I couldn't believe it only got up to 34, that's insane. That is over a 30 degree difference while stress testing, before my max was 65 degrees.

Also, I mined ethereum yesterday for 9 hrs straight, came home from work and my GPU temp was sitting at 29, that is with the GPU at 100% usage for 9 hrs straight.

I also used a thermal gun and was able to measure a few of the memory modules, and the highest temp I seen was 59.9.

59.9 is still very low, right?

quote name="mnemo_05" url="/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/6270#post_26162616"]
1080ti strix is the best card to use a g10/g12 on imo..

with the mid plate of this card, you dont necessarily need to add any heatsink. I mean you may if you want for peace on mind, but unless you are to OC the ***** out of the VRAM, you should be fine

you can also change the stock 92mm to something better, but for most users the stock fan is enough. I for one changed it to the noctua 92mm for better performance and silence[/quote]


----------



## cms062407

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> 1080ti strix is the best card to use a g10/g12 on imo..
> 
> with the mid plate of this card, you dont necessarily need to add any heatsink. I mean you may if you want for peace on mind, but unless you are to OC the ***** out of the VRAM, you should be fine
> 
> you can also change the stock 92mm to something better, but for most users the stock fan is enough. I for one changed it to the noctua 92mm for better performance and silence


Also, I did by the Noctua AF 92mm, should be here tomorrow....that nasty color is gonna throw my system scheme off (mainly because my GPU is mounted vertically in a Thermaltake Core P3 and the front of fan shows)..but, that is fine, as long as it cools better than the stock fan and keep my not so cheap 1080 Ti nice and cool.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms062407*
> 
> Ahh may, cool.
> 
> Well, I installed the G12 last night with no issues. I am using an extra 360mm thermaltake AIO I had laying around and this this is crazy....my temps NEVER got past 34 degrees after stress testing for 1 hour!! Idle is around 28...I couldn't believe it only got up to 34, that's insane. That is over a 30 degree difference while stress testing, before my max was 65 degrees.
> 
> Also, I mined ethereum yesterday for 9 hrs straight, came home from work and my GPU temp was sitting at 29, that is with the GPU at 100% usage for 9 hrs straight.
> 
> I also used a thermal gun and was able to measure a few of the memory modules, and the highest temp I seen was 59.9.
> 
> 59.9 is still very low, right?
> 
> quote name="mnemo_05" url="/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/6270#post_26162616"]
> 1080ti strix is the best card to use a g10/g12 on imo..
> 
> with the mid plate of this card, you dont necessarily need to add any heatsink. I mean you may if you want for peace on mind, but unless you are to OC the ***** out of the VRAM, you should be fine
> 
> you can also change the stock 92mm to something better, but for most users the stock fan is enough. I for one changed it to the noctua 92mm for better performance and silence


[/quote]

60C is totally fine. WAAAY below any dangerous levels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms062407*
> 
> Also, I did by the Noctua AF 92mm, should be here tomorrow....that nasty color is gonna throw my system scheme off (mainly because my GPU is mounted vertically in a Thermaltake Core P3 and the front of fan shows)..but, that is fine, as long as it cools better than the stock fan and keep my not so cheap 1080 Ti nice and cool.


The 92mm fan that comes with the G12 is perfectly fine and does more than a good enough job cooling the VRMs and memory modules, even without additional heatsinks - and it runs pretty much silent at 100%. There's really no need to change it unless you don't like the colour of it. Black usually goes with anything though.


----------



## mnemo_05

a 360 rad for a GPU?!?!? ahaha! a bit overkill but hey, if you have a spare then utilize them

60c on load is a very safe temp, most modern custom cooled GPU fans dont even spin until they reach 60c =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> The 92mm fan that comes with the G12 is perfectly fine and does more than a good enough job cooling the VRMs and memory modules, even without additional heatsinks - and it runs pretty much silent at 100%. There's really no need to change it unless you don't like the colour of it. Black usually goes with anything though.


I find the stock fan noisy well maybe because my rig sits less than a meter from me and that 92mm fan is facing me directly.


----------



## cms062407

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> a 360 rad for a GPU?!?!? ahaha! a bit overkill but hey, if you have a spare then utilize them
> 
> 60c on load is a very safe temp, most modern custom cooled GPU fans dont even spin until they reach 60c =)
> I find the stock fan noisy well maybe because my rig sits less than a meter from me and that 92mm fan is facing me directly.


60c was the temp for the memory modules, my GPU doesn't get past 34c while under load.

and ya...i just figured, might as well use this 360 rad since it is laying around. Very impressed with the results. Curious, though...what plug is it recommended to plug the pump into on the mobo? I have an ASUS Z270E motherboard and the AIO pump header is already used for my CPU cooler.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> a 360 rad for a GPU?!?!? ahaha! a bit overkill but hey, if you have a spare then utilize them
> 
> 60c on load is a very safe temp, most modern custom cooled GPU fans dont even spin until they reach 60c =)
> I find the stock fan noisy well maybe because my rig sits less than a meter from me and that 92mm fan is facing me directly.


Is your case open as well? No side panel? Maybe it's the tempered glass, but I can't hear it at all unless I put my ear less than 6 inches from the back of the case.


----------



## MEC-777

Was running some benchmarks last night and used a temp gun on the card to see the VRMs and memory temps. VRMs hit about 50C max and the memory even less than that (40-ish). And this is with a "naked" 1070 Founders card with a hefty OC.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms062407*
> 
> Curious, though...what plug is it recommended to plug the pump into on the mobo? I have an ASUS Z270E motherboard and the AIO pump header is already used for my CPU cooler.


Any of them will work fine, just make sure the fan header has the full 12V set to it in the bios.


----------



## knopflerbruce

https://videocardz.com/review/msi-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-armor-review/2 Seems like MSI GTX 1080 ti Armor OC has got the VRM cooling plate as well







anyone tried it?


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Is your case open as well? No side panel? Maybe it's the tempered glass, but I can't hear it at all unless I put my ear less than 6 inches from the back of the case.


My side panel is nothing but a fine mesh filter and my card is seatedupright thus the fan is literally facing me. Im using a Core 500 btw, full to the brim build








Quote:


> https://videocardz.com/review/msi-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-armor-review/2 Seems like MSI GTX 1080 ti Armor OC has got the VRM cooling plate as well smile.gif anyone tried it?


This card was the one am looking at to pair with a G10/G12, my only real concern is whether that space around the GPU chip is enoughfor the AIO coldplate to go through as I am not a fan of shims.


----------



## Fostil

Any one knows when EU retailers will have G12? G10 is out of stock and dont think that they will get them any more. Was planing to buy G10, but then they announced G12 and decided to wait, but now it is over 2 months and still no sign of showing up in stores... My GTX1080 is burning hot, constantly 80-84C when gaming and really dont like the sound of fans...


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fostil*
> 
> Any one knows when EU retailers will have G12? G10 is out of stock and dont think that they will get them any more. Was planing to buy G10, but then they announced G12 and decided to wait, but now it is over 2 months and still no sign of showing up in stores... My GTX1080 is burning hot, constantly 80-84C when gaming and really dont like the sound of fans...


Are you wanting the G-12 due to a specific cooler you want to use? If not there is nothing wrong with the G-10. You can pick up any number of AIOs that are still widely available for it.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> My side panel is nothing but a fine mesh filter and my card is seatedupright thus the fan is literally facing me. Im using a Core 500 btw, full to the brim build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This card was the one am looking at to pair with a G10/G12, my only real concern is whether that space around the GPU chip is enoughfor the AIO coldplate to go through as I am not a fan of shims.


The Core 500 is similar to the Node 304. I've used the G10 with an R9 290 in my old Node 304 a couple years and it fit *just*.


----------



## cms062407

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Any of them will work fine, just make sure the fan header has the full 12V set to it in the bios.


thanks for the reply. I always hear people say to make sure a fan has the full 12V...how in the world do you check that? I have never seen that in a BIOS settings. I can get into the "fan control" settings and put the pump to max speed, but I couldn't tell you if it is at 12V or not.....


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> The Core 500 is similar to the Node 304. I've used the G10 with an R9 290 in my old Node 304 a couple years and it fit *just*.


yup! it barely clears the g10 "wing".. although my h75 tubes touches the side panel ever so sllightly


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> yup! it barely clears the g10 "wing".. although my h75 tubes touches the side panel ever so sllightly


Yeah it's a snug fit, but it works.









Here's my Node 304 from a couple years back with the R9 290 with G10 and H55 as well as an H60 on the CPU.





Yes, I stacked the rads (CPU rad in front, GPU rad in back) and yes it actually worked really well.


----------



## Ultisym

And I thought my rig was packed tight in case


----------



## clubfoot

Decided to take the plunge and added one of my spare Kraken/H75s to my MSI GTX1070 Gaming z video card as the summer temps crept up to 70c in Fire Strike on my upper SLi video card. Now runs Fire Strike at 38c! :thumb:The lower card is hovering at 60c,...Ordered another Kraken/H75 combo for the second card









Removed MSI back plate and installed insulating pad to inside MSI back plate so NZXT GPU support bracket could mount with plate installed.




Lost video card edge lighting but the temps are worth it


----------



## mnemo_05

I just wish they retained the same vram plate and VRM heatsink on the 1080 TI Gaming X, but they didnt >.<

the Armour edition is really a good candidate for this as I've heard that he cooler on that model s.u.c.k.s


----------



## rfarmer

Thought I would share this if any here are cooling a GTX 1070/1080 FE with the Kraken. http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/icy-vision-gtx10701080-enhancement-kit/ VRM heatsink kit from Gelid, I got this when I installed an Icy Vision Rev 2 on my 1070 FE but it would work with any aftermarket GPU cooler.


----------



## knopflerbruce

Perhaps a dumb question to some of you, but what AIO solutions are the best while using a Kraken G10? I was dumb enough to get a pair of H80i's (one V2 one original), and they won't fit the bracket it seems. I ended up mounting an old H70 to the GPU, which is sort of fine.

The tubing is very short, almost tough just to get from the top slot to the 120mm rear fan just above it. Are there any of these G10 compatible AIO coolers that come with tubing longer than 400mm, like the Kraken series?


----------



## mnemo_05

^all boils down to your case really. I would love to use a H70 or an Antec 920 on mine if I can find one.


----------



## kruger-druger

Guys, is it okay to mount AIO radiator vertically with tubes going from the bottom? May some air bubbles block liquid flow in this case?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kruger-druger*
> 
> Guys, is it okay to mount AIO radiator vertically with tubes going from the bottom? May some air bubbles block liquid flow in this case?


What do you mean by vertical? You mean like this?


Working fine for me.


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Hi rfarmer,

Just wondering if you know if the GELID kit you linked (http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/icy-vision-gtx10701080-enhancement-kit/ ) fits the 1080ti aswell?

On a side note, I'm considering the NZXT G10 (I had a couple leftover from my R9 290 CF set up), and am wondering if ANY company or brand makes a VRM heatsink for the 1080ti.

Card is a MSI Sea Hawk 1080ti (I think they use a reference Founder's Edition PCB). May be pointless to do this on an already AIO cooled card but the blower fan on the VRM's is beginning to whine and it's driving me mad!


----------



## kruger-druger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> What do you mean by vertical? You mean like this?


No, this is horizontally







I mean just on front but tubes in the bottom, not top.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> Hi rfarmer,
> 
> Just wondering if you know if the GELID kit you linked (http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/icy-vision-gtx10701080-enhancement-kit/ ) fits the 1080ti aswell?
> 
> On a side note, I'm considering the NZXT G10 (I had a couple leftover from my R9 290 CF set up), and am wondering if ANY company or brand makes a VRM heatsink for the 1080ti.
> 
> Card is a MSI Sea Hawk 1080ti (I think they use a reference Founder's Edition PCB). May be pointless to do this on an already AIO cooled card but the blower fan on the VRM's is beginning to whine and it's driving me mad!


Sorry but I don't know, they only list the 1070/1080. You might try contacting Gelid directly.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kruger-druger*
> 
> No, this is horizontally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean just on front but tubes in the bottom, not top.


Oh ok. I thought you meant with the tubes coming out vertically. Some say it matters if the tube are at the top or bottom, but IMO and from my own experience using a number of these AIO's, it doesn't really matter. Any air in the loop will eventually make it's way to the highest point and stay there.


----------



## kruger-druger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Oh ok. I thought you meant with the tubes coming out vertically. Some say it matters if the tube are at the top or bottom, but IMO and from my own experience using a number of these AIO's, it doesn't really matter. Any air in the loop will eventually make it's way to the highest point and stay there.


Thank you very much. Also may be little offtopic but how to use thermocouples to measure temps? I want to check VRAM temperature with g10 and without heatsinks. As I understand this is okay for everyday use (1080Ti FE), but I want to try mining


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kruger-druger*
> 
> Thank you very much. Also may be little offtopic but how to use thermocouples to measure temps? I want to check VRAM temperature with g10 and without heatsinks. As I understand this is okay for everyday use (1080Ti FE), but I want to try mining


I'm actually mining ETH with my 1070 as you see it in that picture. I have it set to 60% power limit and with the Vram OC'd to +600. Vram modules have not exceeded 60*C as of yet just with the fan on the G12 blowing on them and no heatsinks. Very efficient card.







Core stays around 40*C with fans at 40%.

The only way I could check the Vram and VRM temps is by using a thermal gun.


----------



## kruger-druger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I'm actually mining ETH with my 1070 as you see it in that picture. I have it set to 60% power limit and with the Vram OC'd to +600. Vram modules have not exceeded 60*C as of yet just with the fan on the G12 blowing on them and no heatsinks. Very efficient card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Core stays around 40*C with fans at 40%.
> 
> The only way I could check the Vram and VRM temps is by using a thermal gun.


Hmm, interesting thank you. But why 60% power limit if you have water cooling?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kruger-druger*
> 
> Hmm, interesting thank you. But why 60% power limit if you have water cooling?


The reduced power limit is just for when mining. If I run 60% power limit on the core and an OC the memory to +600, the mining rate is the same as when running a high OC on the core and +500 on the memory, but it actually uses 40% less power while doing so. So instead of using 150w and running the core up to 48*C when mining, it only uses 90w and hovers around 40*C.


----------



## clubfoot

Just an update to my original post. Now running dual Kraken G10s on SLi MSI GTX1070 Gaming Zs.


----------



## kruger-druger

Just set up Kraken g10/Coirsair h110 on my 1080ti. Just wow, playing GTA5 on 2000Mhz/47C With fans on 1000rpm!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kruger-druger*
> 
> Just set up Kraken g10/Coirsair h110 on my 1080ti. Just wow, playing GTA5 on 2000Mhz/47C With fans on 1000rpm!


It really is a very simple and reasonably cheap modification I am glad more people are coming across and trying.


----------



## mmm273

Hi, someone tried this G10 with Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 120/240?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmm273*
> 
> Hi, someone tried this G10 with Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 120/240?


If you check the NZXT website, they have a compatibility list that will tell you if it will work with those AIOs.


----------



## mnemo_05

i am having a hard time looking for a thick rad aio to pair with my g10









antec 920 and the zalman lq320 are next to non-existent on my side of the world. the water pro 3.0 wont suit my needs due to the screw near those fittings on the water block


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> i am having a hard time looking for a thick rad aio to pair with my g10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> antec 920 and the zalman lq320 are next to non-existent on my side of the world. the water pro 3.0 wont suit my needs due to the screw near those fittings on the water block


May I ask, why do you need a thick rad?


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> May I ask, why do you need a thick rad?


i am not happy with the temps that my H75 is giving me. I have it paired with a 980ti flashed with EVGA bios 1.230v on load. reaches 73c on bench, touches 65c on gaming. i wish to stay below 60c on gaming on this card. =)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> i am not happy with the temps that my H75 is giving me. I have it paired with a 980ti flashed with EVGA bios 1.230v on load. reaches 73c on bench, touches 65c on gaming. i wish to stay below 60c on gaming on this card. =)


Was the H75 new or used when you got it?, Are you sure the pump is getting the full 12V?, are the fans on the radiator set to exhaust from the case? Is airflow in the case generally decent? Have you tried reseating the pump/cold plate again?Sorry for all the questions but just trying to help you figure this out. <60C gaming should be attained easily even with an H75/G-10..


----------



## mnemo_05

done this, done that. h75 should be able to cool this card for sure, on an open environment or a roomy case. but just like when the fire nation attacked, everything changes when you move to an itx set up

here is my set-up, hang on to you hats;

fractal core 500 case, modded a 92mm intake in front.

top is occupied by a h220-x2, fans are configured as exhaust as I dont want my case to be a rotary oven while cooling an overclocked 7700k

980ti running 1.230v on load cooled by h75 with rad installed at the back(nowhere else to put it really), fan is installed to blow air through the rad then out of the case

all my rads are using GTs 1850, I ran them though at max 1400rpm as i still value silence

now even at those fan speed, when i touch the rear of my case on heavy gpu load, i can feel the actual case being warm bordering hot even.

thus i am hoping a bigger surface area on the rad may help me achieve the temps I am looking for =)

btw, this card never touched 55c when I was still using an arc mini 2, well that was then

edit: yup h75 was new, pump is at max. used noctua h1 for tim(pretty good actually). if I remove the case cover max temp is around 52c-54c


----------



## Ultisym

And your running both the fans that came with the H75 in push-pull?


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> And your running both the fans that came with the H75 in push-pull?


nope, ditched those fans in favor of my GTs

now that you mentioned it, when i got the time, i will install a pull fan outside the case. not sure how much it will help but i have a few GTs left so might as well do it


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> nope, ditched those fans in favor of my GTs
> 
> now that you mentioned it, when i got the time, i will install a pull fan outside the case. not sure how much it will help but i have a few GTs left so might as well do it


Its usually good for maybe 1C but if airflow in your case is that bad it may make a bigger difference. Perhaps even more so if your are running them at a lower RPM for noise suppression.


----------



## kruger-druger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kruger-druger*
> 
> Just set up Kraken g10/Coirsair h110 on my 1080ti. Just wow, playing GTA5 on 2000Mhz/47C With fans on 1000rpm!


Generally on 2000MHz I have to set fans on 1400 rpm to keep gpu under 50C. Is it okay or h110 can do better?


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kruger-druger*
> 
> Generally on 2000MHz I have to set fans on 1400 rpm to keep gpu under 50C. Is it okay or h110 can do better?


For starters 50C is absolutely fine for that GPU and AIO at 1400 RPMs. Im assuming that your saying that your temp is ~50C while your gaming. That GPU will live a long life and perform beautifully at that temp.

For this particular modification, the G-10 and ---insert any compatible AIO here, I have personally found about a 5C temperature difference on average between the larger 240mm AIO kits and the standard 120mm radiators. The variations you see in temperature between all these systems probably has more to do with the variations in air flow between them. Some cases have superior air flow than others by design. Others, people have put a lot of time and effort into improving the air circuit to make it as good as possible in the case they are using. I fall into this category as I have entirely to much equipment crammed into this 400r case and it took some effort to sort it out. Anyway, The right fans in the right places can make a big difference, keeping the system dust free makes a difference, etc etc. If you want to get better temps you need to take a look at your air circuit and start there to see what you can improve.


----------



## mnemo_05

50c on load? i would not look for anymore improvement if i have those temps, ehehe!

so i just installed another GT15 on the rear of my case for a push pull config on my h75, seems to be helping. ran valley for a good 2hrs with the side panel off, peaked at 65c.

will test more later with all the panels attached and some further tweak on the fan curve, i think may may still be able to add 100-200 more rpm on these GTs before i start hearing them hum

they sure dont look pretty being mounted outside but my rig wont joining a beauty contest either so i guess it is ok..


----------



## kruger-druger

Ok, thank you guys for answering


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> they sure dont look pretty being mounted outside but my rig wont joining a beauty contest either so i guess it is ok..


All my radiator fans are mounted on the outside of the case. I did take the time to run the cabling professionally and I bought black grills for the two GPUs radiator fans on the side that are exhausting the GPU radiators. The radiators pushing through the H-110 on top have black grills as well as 140mm air filters to mount under them. Since the CPU 280mm radiator fans are on intake, this keeps them clear of dust and makes cleaning the filters a breeze, literally with a simple can of air.

Anyway, I dont think it looks bad but its just my opinion.


----------



## thesebastian

Guys, after more than 2 years with a Gigabyte 970 ITX with Kraken G10 + Corsair H90

Tomorrow I'll probably get a used GTX 1080 Gigabyte G1.

*How much important do you think is to add some heatsinks to the RAM and VRM in the 1080 G1?* (I haven't used Heatsinks in my 970 ram and worked well for more than 2 years).

So, I have some remains of "Alphacool double-sided adhesive pad " that I bought for the 970 VRM and haven't used it all. (Probably not too much to paste all the heatsinks).

And some Akasa thermal adhesive. That I bought before the Alphacool's pads and never used, I can't remember why, but, I think because it was risky or something.

Thanks!


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> Guys, after more than 2 years with a Gigabyte 970 ITX with Kraken G10 + Corsair H90
> 
> Tomorrow I'll probably get a used GTX 1080 Gigabyte G1.
> 
> *How much important do you think is to add some heatsinks to the RAM and VRM in the 1080 G1?* (I haven't used Heatsinks in my 970 ram and worked well for more than 2 years).
> 
> So, I have some remains of "Alphacool double-sided adhesive pad " that I bought for the 970 VRM and haven't used it all. (Probably not too much to paste all the heatsinks).
> 
> And some Akasa thermal adhesive. That I bought before the Alphacool's pads and never used, I can't remember why, but, I think because it was risky or something.
> 
> Thanks!


You only need heat sinks on the VRMs. If you wanna try your hand at getting the highest absolute clock speed out of the memory then put heat sinks on the VRAM as well. But its not worth fooling with the VRAM IMHO.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You only need heat sinks on the VRMs. If you wanna try your hand at getting the highest absolute clock speed out of the memory then put heat sinks on the VRAM as well. But its not worth fooling with the VRAM IMHO.


Thank you!

Ok good to know! I plan to do some OC but only if it's 100% stable.

For 9-10€ maybe I get some heatsink for the ram, but is good to know it's not really required








I could spend these 10€ in a used 92mm fan.

- I'll reuse what I have for the VRM. (some 12x11x5mm heat sink).

- Buy some more Alphacool double tape (2-3 units should be ok).

- Do you recommend getting one Noctua 92mm fan? I've never used the Kraken G10's FAN. My Case fans reach 19.2dB at 1200RPM (and they are a bit noisy at 1200RPM at night). So I was planning to get a NF-A9 and use it with L.N.A 24/7 (16dB)


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesebastian*
> 
> - Do you recommend getting one Noctua 92mm fan? I've never used the Kraken G10's FAN. My Case fans reach 19.2dB at 1200RPM (and they are a bit noisy at 1200RPM at night). So I was planning to get a NF-A9 and use it with L.N.A 24/7 (16dB)


The Noctua fans are a good choice. Quiet with good air flow. I have run Nanoxia 92mm fans on my g-10 sli setups from the get go and they are also quiet with excellent flow. But there are plenty of good choices out there and truth is the Nzxt fans are plenty of fan for the job and not particularly loud. Still we do like our mods around here.


----------



## mmm273

So i installed it with H55 on my EVGA 980Ti classified .

Wanted to have back and midplate so I used copper shim (25x25x1.5). It all went good.
(H55 have really short tubes, so take note).

Anyway, installed it as exhaust at rear, replaced stock fan for Noctua F12, connected via Gelid VGA-PWM adaptor, edited bios for custom fan curve ( below 35 is fan off, above is slowly rising from 600RPM to 1500 at max.) Temp is max 65 in benchmarks with OC (1530mhz at core).
It's really silent. At gaming temp is about 45-55 which is great compared to stock ACX2.0 fan (where I can't OC).

So far I really like it.


----------



## thesebastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> The Noctua fans are a good choice. Quiet with good air flow. I have run Nanoxia 92mm fans on my g-10 sli setups from the get go and they are also quiet with excellent flow. But there are plenty of good choices out there and truth is the Nzxt fans are plenty of fan for the job and not particularly loud. Still we do like our mods around here.


Yeah I'll see how the NZXT works at the default 1500 RPM, if it's too noisy I'll replace it with a NF-A9.


----------



## thesebastian

Ok! yesterday I migrated the G10 from the 970 ITX to the new (used) 1080 I got.

Honestly I installed the G10 really fast and unprofessional...
*> The issue was that I had a tiny double-sided adhesive thermal pad (some remains from my installation 2 years ago).* So I had to do a poor installation with so little thermal pad. (More thermal pad is on the way but will take a week or more to arrive).

The only thing I quickly measured before doing this, is the temp at the backplate close around the VRM, while running HeavenBenchmark. (using a Temp Gun). I was getting like 75ºC at max in some areas.
But after putting the G10, despite of the terrible work I did with the VRM heatsinks, that part of the backplate (and using 108% max TDP more than before) is like 55ºC at max!

So I think the G10's FAN + some bad installed heatsinks are 20ºC better than the stock heatsink without the G10. (Probably because the heatsink is very good dissipating and was transferring a LOT of temp from the GPU to the rest of the board, hence, increasing also the VRM temp while dissipating it. Can be?).

I think I can perfectly leave this as is. But probably will put some more stuff when arrive, like a new thermal pad covering the whole VRM (these heatsink with so little pad, could fall). But honestly, when I pulled the old pad from the 970, the heatsinks were well stickied enough even after 2 years.
So I recommend this "Alphacool double-sided adhesive thermalpad" to anyone. (At least with light aluminum pieces, no idea about copper).

*Photos*

The things I'm not cooling that were previously being touched by the heatsink are:
- VRAM (Not needed, since the GPU is way cooler).
- Those "Magic R15" pieces. Should I put something there?

@Ultisym as always, thanks for the help!


----------



## MEC-777

IMHO, you don't even need heat sinks on the VRMs. With that 92mm fan blowing cool fresh air directly on them it's far better than slower-moving air that's already been pre-heated by the GPU heat sink of the stock cooler. You can also easily run that 92mm fan at 100% all the time because it's near dead-silent.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> IMHO, you don't even need heat sinks on the VRMs. With that 92mm fan blowing cool fresh air directly on them it's far better than slower-moving air that's already been pre-heated by the GPU heat sink of the stock cooler. You can also easily run that 92mm fan at 100% all the time because it's near dead-silent.


Have to disagree here. Some of these cards, the VRMs can get really hot. to the point of destroying the GPU if not kept in check so I will always recommend heat sinks be used used in this application.Heat sinks are a thermal conductor that carries heat away from the "insert components being cooled here" into fins that provide a larger surface area for the heat to dissipate both the heat sink and in this example the VRMs. A heat sink does of course require a fan to move air but the heat sinked VRMs will run significantly cooler than the non heat sinked VRMs with air just blowing on them.

And they are cheap as heck.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Have to disagree here. Some of these cards, the VRMs can get really hot. to the point of destroying the GPU if not kept in check so I will always recommend heat sinks be used used in this application.Heat sinks are a thermal conductor that carries heat away from the "insert components being cooled here" into fins that provide a larger surface area for the heat to dissipate both the heat sink and in this example the VRMs. A heat sink does of course require a fan to move air but the heat sinked VRMs will run significantly cooler than the non heat sinked VRMs with air just blowing on them.
> 
> And they are cheap as heck.


I know what heatsinks are, but thanks for the rundown.









What I said was that no heatsinks with the fan blowing directly over the VRMs is still better than the results you get with the stock cooler that comes with the card. Jayztwocents confirmed this with a high-end EVGA card not too long ago in his Kraken G12 video. He recorded the VRM temps with the stock cooler and again with the fan blowing over the naked VRMs and temps were significantly lower.

Yes, you can get even lower temps if you add heatsinks to the VRMs in addition to the G10/12's fan blowing on them. But as long as you keep sufficient air flow over the VRMs, there's no issue of overheating the VRMs. Not on a GTX 10 series card anyways. It's still better than with the card's stock cooler, was my point.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> I know what heatsinks are, but thanks for the rundown.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I said was that no heatsinks with the fan blowing directly over the VRMs is still better than the results you get with the stock cooler that comes with the card. Jayztwocents confirmed this with a high-end EVGA card not too long ago in his Kraken G12 video. He recorded the VRM temps with the stock cooler and again with the fan blowing over the naked VRMs and temps were significantly lower.
> 
> Yes, you can get even lower temps if you add heatsinks to the VRMs in addition to the G10/12's fan blowing on them. But as long as you keep sufficient air flow over the VRMs, there's no issue of overheating the VRMs. Not on a GTX 10 series card anyways. It's still better than with the card's stock cooler, was my point.


You can get away with it on the 10 series because you can't overvolt. The VRMs on the AMD Hawaii series was impossible to cool if the voltage was over 1.1V with the G10/12 cooler, even with fujiploy+ a custom Gelid heatsink on them.

I'd be hesitant to run the Maxwell series without some kind of heatsink if the voltage is above 1.2V.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> You can get away with it on the 10 series because you can't overvolt. The VRMs on the AMD Hawaii series was impossible to cool if the voltage was over 1.1V with the G10/12 cooler, even with fujiploy+ a custom Gelid heatsink on them.
> 
> I'd be hesitant to run the Maxwell series without some kind of heatsink if the voltage is above 1.2V.


There has been people who have run GPUs with no VRMs and got away with it and then there have been some that have burned their GPUs up. As cheap as they are and for as little time as it takes to do it right, why not just do it right and forget about it? Just my opinion.

Edited to correct for the fact that I cannot text to save my life and some of the words were whack!


----------



## thesebastian

I guess the only risk with my gpu right now is that some of the VRM are "half" dissipated, (because only half of the top are being touched by the thermal pad...) but still the backplate temp is significantly lower. So all should be more than happy. And the backplate is already touching all of them...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> IMHO, you don't even need heat sinks on the VRMs. With that 92mm fan blowing cool fresh air directly on them it's far better than slower-moving air that's already been pre-heated by the GPU heat sink of the stock cooler. You can also easily run that 92mm fan at 100% all the time because it's near dead-silent.


Yeah. It's at 100% 24/7.
If I remember well I have all the FANS and the PUMP connected to the PSU 12V, and only the PWM and RPM, cables to the CPU_FAN of the motherboard. (I'm not using CASE_FAN connector because the PWM pin is like a placebo in my motherboard, and it controls with variable voltage).

So all the fans that don't have PWM (like the G10 one) will run at 100% most of the time. And the ones that have PWM, run at CPU_FAN speed. All are getting constant 12V from the PSU
(And I control the CPU_FAN speed with "SpeedFan", based on CPU and GPU temp curves).

Honestly the only FANs I have that are noisy, when they jump to 1200 RPM (L.N.A. already on) are the 140mm ones and the CPU fan (120mm) probably as well.


----------



## mmm273

well I hear that NZXT fan at 100%.
I put it on 5V so its slower a silent, but now I Have worries about VRM temps. My 980Ti Classified cant read temp of VRM so Im blind.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> You can get away with it on the 10 series because you can't overvolt. The VRMs on the AMD Hawaii series was impossible to cool if the voltage was over 1.1V with the G10/12 cooler, even with fujiploy+ a custom Gelid heatsink on them.
> 
> I'd be hesitant to run the Maxwell series without some kind of heatsink if the voltage is above 1.2V.


Remembering back to the days when I had a 290 with a G10, you're correct. The VRMs on those would get dangerously hot without a heatsink.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> There has been peoople who have run GPUs with no VRms and got away with it and theh there have been some that burned their GPUs up. As cheap as they are and as little time as it takes to do it right, why not just do it right and forget about it? Just my opinion.


I guess if you want to be absolutely sure, it will give you peace of mind to err on the safe side. I agree with that.

On my 1070, I keep an eye on my VRM temps using a temp gun from time to time while gaming, just to be sure. Highest temps I've observed thus far are mid-high 50's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmm273*
> 
> well I hear that NZXT fan at 100%.
> I put it on 5V so its slower a silent, but now I Have worries about VRM temps. My 980Ti Classified cant read temp of VRM so Im blind.


In that case, you should definitely put some heatsinks on to help dissipate the heat. You must be running an open case because I can't hear the NZXT fan at 100% at all in my InWin 303 about 3ft from where I sit.


----------



## mmm273

Well I definitely hear it, FD Define C.
So you have either loud whole PC, or environment (or you are deaf).

I edited it to 7V but I won't go higher.

BTW I have EVGA 980Ti which have midplate and backplate so I don't install heatsink, it should be enough.


----------



## thesebastian

Regarding the G10 Fan. I think is good enough for any rig that have a good sealed case that is 1 meter away. I don't hear or differentiate the NZXT G10's FAN

What I have is all Noctuas fans (x3 140mm and x1 120mm, 800 RPM idle, 1200 RPM full load), the Corsair pump, and the NZXT G10 Fan.
The case is a Phanteks Evolv ITX and it's 1 meter away from my chair.

What I do hear in full load are the Noctuas at 1200 RPM. They are not loud, but you can hear a little the airflow. (Even with the Low noise adaptor that caps the RPM to 1200).

But to sum up, I think the NZXT Fan is something equivalent to a Noctua 140mm NF-A14 PWM (my case's fans) at 800-900 RPM~

*So I'm glad I haven't replaced the G10 fan with another one, because this Fan at 100% is similar to my idle case and cpu fans. And it's still amazing for the VRMs.*


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmm273*
> 
> Well I definitely hear it, FD Define C.
> So you have either loud whole PC, or environment (or you are deaf).
> 
> I edited it to 7V but I won't go higher.
> 
> BTW I have EVGA 980Ti which have midplate and backplate so I don't install heatsink, it should be enough.


Lol, at idle and low loads, none of the fans are running in my system (only the 92mm NZXT fan @100%) and my room is very quiet. Maybe tempered glass makes a good sound insulator?


----------



## mmm273

I have same - at idle spinning only front BeQuiet 140 at 500RPM. This one is silent that I can't tell difference between running and off. But when I tested that NZXT I can definitely tell it's running, I can hear it pretty clear so no no 100% for me.
At 7V it's much quieter. I know Cooling isn't best then but again I have midplate and backplate on GPU so I think it will be good.


----------



## Jsmooth1992

Speaking about heatsinks for VRM's, I have a MSI GTX1080ti Sea Hawk.

After two warranty replacements, the blower fan on the 3rd card (which covers the VRM's) still makes a high pitched whine! I am convinced that it is a design flaw though. I am now at a point where I cannot be bothered going back for another replacement, since I have two NZXT G10's and Corsair H55's lying around from my previous R9 290 CF set up.

My only question is about cooling the VRM's on the 1080ti. I believe the MSI Sea Hawk uses a reference PCB, so I'm asking around to see how people have been handling the VRM's? Naked? Only using the 92mm NZXT fan? Seems like most people with the 1080ti and NZXT G10/G12 have just gone with the provided fan.

I am considering this kit from Gelid: http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/icy-vision-gtx10701080-enhancement-kit/

But I have no idea if it fits the 1080ti or not. Any help here?

Any suggestions for a VRM heatsinks for the 1080ti would be appreciated!! Otherwise may just have to try my luck with questionable ebay spec heatsinks....=S


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsmooth1992*
> 
> Speaking about heatsinks for VRM's, I have a MSI GTX1080ti Sea Hawk.
> 
> After two warranty replacements, the blower fan on the 3rd card (which covers the VRM's) still makes a high pitched whine! I am convinced that it is a design flaw though. I am now at a point where I cannot be bothered going back for another replacement, since I have two NZXT G10's and Corsair H55's lying around from my previous R9 290 CF set up.
> 
> My only question is about cooling the VRM's on the 1080ti. I believe the MSI Sea Hawk uses a reference PCB, so I'm asking around to see how people have been handling the VRM's? Naked? Only using the 92mm NZXT fan? Seems like most people with the 1080ti and NZXT G10/G12 have just gone with the provided fan.
> 
> I am considering this kit from Gelid: http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/icy-vision-gtx10701080-enhancement-kit/
> 
> But I have no idea if it fits the 1080ti or not. Any help here?
> 
> Any suggestions for a VRM heatsinks for the 1080ti would be appreciated!! Otherwise may just have to try my luck with questionable ebay spec heatsinks....=S





I have that kit on my 1070. First pic is the 1070 reference PCB and shows the area covered, second pic is a 1080 Ti reference PCB. Looks like the kit should work and use the same screw holes.


----------



## kruger-druger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Anyway, The right fans in the right places can make a big difference, keeping the system dust free makes a difference, etc etc. If you want to get better temps you need to take a look at your air circuit and start there to see what you can improve.


You were absolutely right! Just realized that I had mounted h110 fans as pull warm air out from the case. Tried push fresh air into the case and got about 45C under gaming load at 1000rpm. But CPU with 280mm AiO (fans out) became much hotter. Now playing with fans configurations. Anyway thank you for your response


----------



## MaxDarklighter

Hi guys!
I saw a lot of videos about installing Kraken G12 on vcard. I'd like to install one on mine but there no cooling for this elements: http://c2n.me/3MdJ9Uc

Is it a problem? And if not, then why stock cooling have termal tapes and metal plates-radiators on this elements?


----------



## stealth83

They now get cooled by the fan on the G12 bracket.


----------



## MaxDarklighter

Yes but in stock MSI (and pretty much all other vendors) uses two coolers and metal plate for heat distribution for cooling this elements
When I install Kraken G10 there only one cooler and no metal plate for heat distribution...

Do you think they use metal plate through termal tape for no reason?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaxDarklighter*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I saw a lot of videos about installing Kraken G12 on vcard. I'd like to install one on mine but there no cooling for this elements: http://c2n.me/3MdJ9Uc
> 
> Is it a problem? And if not, then why stock cooling have termal tapes and metal plates-radiators on this elements?


Those are the memory modules and unless you're going for extreme overclocking, the fan on the G12 is more than enough to keep them cool.

With the MSI cooler design, these modules don't get as much airflow and the air passing through is at higher temperatures (because it's first passing through the heatsink which is cooling the GPU. They use that "mid plate" with thermal pads to help dissipate and cool the modules. The plate is somewhat necessary with that cooler design.

With the G12, the fan is blowing fresh, cool, unobstructed air on the modules and this works really well for cooling them.


----------



## stealth83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaxDarklighter*
> 
> Yes but in stock MSI (and pretty much all other vendors) uses two coolers and metal plate for heat distribution for cooling this elements
> When I install Kraken G10 there only one cooler and no metal plate for heat distribution...
> 
> Do you think they use metal plate through termal tape for no reason?


Of course I dont think its for no reason, do you think so many people would use the brackets including myself if it didnt work? You can look back at my previous post, I took temp reading and all vrams and vrm were in 40s or lower. I have the 10 and it works great, everything stays nice and cool.


----------



## Fostil

Finally I got all parts and upgraded my Gigabyte GTX 1080 WINDFORCE OC 8G (GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD).
It runs so much cooler ~55C on Furmark and most importantly - total silence! Assembling G12 was so easy, the hardest part was deciding how much to tighten screws...
One problem, that VRM heat sinks doesn't stick so well and after few hours of using pc - 1 fell down.







Any ideas what to use to glue them? Or should i just remove them and leave it as it is?


----------



## mnemo_05

^
i always suggest using aluminum heat sinks when it comes to cooling the vram and vrms due to their weight\

as for the thermal tape, i go with 3M 8810s as they are the easiest to find in my area, not a single heat sink has fallen on me since using them

from the looks of it, G12s are easier to install compared to G10s..


----------



## Fostil

Well first time doing something like that, so went with copper thinking it will transfer heat better then aluminum. But now I had to remove all VRM heat sinks and I'm using pc as it is. So far so good, but prefer being safer and cool them down properly.
I guess I will have to order some aluminum heatsinks after all, but damn those chinese will take whole month again to deliver them...









Yeah assembling G12 was easy, simply attach holding bracket with few screws and washers and then mount water pump, no tricky parts.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fostil*
> 
> Well first time doing something like that, so went with copper thinking it will transfer heat better then aluminum. But now I had to remove all VRM heat sinks and I'm using pc as it is. So far so good, but prefer being safer and cool them down properly.
> I guess I will have to order some aluminum heatsinks after all, but damn those chinese will take whole month again to deliver them...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah assembling G12 was easy, simply attach holding bracket with few screws and washers and then mount water pump, no tricky parts.


The VRAM heat sinks really arent necessary but they certainly can not hurt.

I havnt actually installed the G12 yet but the pics are interesting, will have to read the instructions.


----------



## Nerat

Hello guys,

I purchased a second hand G10 and a Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performer to cool my GTX 970. My stock cooler had a fault on contact plate so i had to replace it.

I also added small heatsinks along the process to help cool VRAMs, VRM already had a heatsink. I kept the backplate.

Anyway, I started the system, temps were 31-32C idle (that's a cold start) and 48-52C in PUBG (the game puts %99 load on my gpu). Everything seemed nice considering ambient temp is around 30-32 C and previously I would hit 89C.

HOWEVER, the load temp does not stabilize. It slowly increases, like 1C / 2min, highest i've seen was 75C. I'm sure it's not poor contact because that would cause spikes. Pump is working because: 1) i tested it before and i can feel it working 2) radiator is hot but here might be the problem, it's very hot to touch, i assume around 75-80C maybe even bit more. I know this AIO is not the best around here but do you have any idea if this is normal? So the radiator cannot dissipate the heat? Or airflow is not enough?

Config:

6700K w/ H60
Corsair 250D case (i know it's mini itx and small but still load temp should be stabilised somewhere)
2 side fans, one ML120 Corsair, 1 H60 rad w/ ML120
TT rad with SP120 fan in the front

All fans are set to exhaust and rad pull configuration.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nerat*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I purchased a second hand G10 and a Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performer to cool my GTX 970. My stock cooler had a fault on contact plate so i had to replace it.
> 
> I also added small heatsinks along the process to help cool VRAMs, VRM already had a heatsink. I kept the backplate.
> 
> Anyway, I started the system, temps were 31-32C idle (that's a cold start) and 48-52C in PUBG (the game puts %99 load on my gpu). Everything seemed nice considering ambient temp is around 30-32 C and previously I would hit 89C.
> 
> HOWEVER, the load temp does not stabilize. It slowly increases, like 1C / 2min, highest i've seen was 75C. I'm sure it's not poor contact because that would cause spikes. Pump is working because: 1) i tested it before and i can feel it working 2) radiator is hot but here might be the problem, it's very hot to touch, i assume around 75-80C maybe even bit more. I know this AIO is not the best around here but do you have any idea if this is normal? So the radiator cannot dissipate the heat? Or airflow is not enough?
> 
> Config:
> 
> 6700K w/ H60
> Corsair 250D case (i know it's mini itx and small but still load temp should be stabilised somewhere)
> 2 side fans, one ML120 Corsair, 1 H60 rad w/ ML120
> TT rad with SP120 fan in the front
> 
> All fans are set to exhaust and rad pull configuration.


You probably just dont have enough fan speed on that TT radiator considering its a small 120mm thin radiator. I just used a faster fan on mine and it works fine.


----------



## mnemo_05

@nerat

that is exactly how liquid cooler works. Your temp will slowly increase over time until it hits a certain ceiling.

watch this video as it pretty much explains what to expect when using any liquid cooler whether you got a 120mm or a 240mm rad


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> @nerat
> 
> that is exactly how liquid cooler works. Your temp will slowly increase over time until it hits a certain ceiling.
> 
> watch this video as it pretty much explains what to expect when using any liquid cooler whether you got a 120mm or a 240mm rad


That certain ceiling is hit when you've hit the equilibrium of the heat dissipation your radiator can dissipate and the heat output of your components.


----------



## Nerat

Thank you for answers. But i'm well aware of how liquid cooling works







.

Judging from the heat radiator holds, the problem seems to be matter of airflow through it. Normally i would be OK with 73-74 C in a mini-ITX system if it wasn't for the increased CPU temps along with it. My CPU temps during gaming averages around 75-80C with moderate OC (4,5ghz @1,31v). It spikes to 90s C momentarily however that's what bothers me. That's why my fans are set to exhaust. The biggest contributor to that is of course GPU radiator.

I might try push pull configuration for the GPU rad or try a faster fan. How about CM JetFlo? Would that perform better than SP120? My other option is 2x ML120s. What i didn't expect was how much heat those GPUs output compared to CPUs.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nerat*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I purchased a second hand G10 and a Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performer to cool my GTX 970. My stock cooler had a fault on contact plate so i had to replace it.
> 
> I also added small heatsinks along the process to help cool VRAMs, VRM already had a heatsink. I kept the backplate.
> 
> Anyway, I started the system, temps were 31-32C idle (that's a cold start) and 48-52C in PUBG (the game puts %99 load on my gpu). Everything seemed nice considering ambient temp is around 30-32 C and previously I would hit 89C.
> 
> HOWEVER, the load temp does not stabilize. It slowly increases, like 1C / 2min, highest i've seen was 75C. I'm sure it's not poor contact because that would cause spikes. Pump is working because: 1) i tested it before and i can feel it working 2) radiator is hot but here might be the problem, it's very hot to touch, i assume around 75-80C maybe even bit more. I know this AIO is not the best around here but do you have any idea if this is normal? So the radiator cannot dissipate the heat? Or airflow is not enough?
> 
> Config:
> 
> 6700K w/ H60
> Corsair 250D case (i know it's mini itx and small but still load temp should be stabilised somewhere)
> 2 side fans, one ML120 Corsair, 1 H60 rad w/ ML120
> TT rad with SP120 fan in the front
> 
> All fans are set to exhaust and rad pull configuration.


It's been debated many times, but EVERY time I have tested it, I found push is always better than pull (by several degrees or more) and push-pull is always several degrees better than just push. Better air flow through the rad = more heat dissipated. I always cringe when i see rads in pull only because I know it can perform better.

So, first try just push and if that's still not enough, go push-pull. In push-pull, you shouldn't need to scream the fans either. Maybe 50-60% max and you should see the temp level out lower than before.

Also, make sure you have enough fresh air coming into your case. The 250D is quite small so here's what I would suggest:
Have at least a 140mm intake fan at the front (it can fit a 200mm). Mount your H60 and GPU AIO beside each other on the side of the case (I believe this is the only place to mount AIOs in the 250D) and have both in push or push-pull and set to exhaust. Install 2x 80mm fans in the rear as INTAKE. You need as much fresh air inside the case for the rads as possible.

Alternatively, have both AIOs as intakes (again in push or push-pull) and have the 2x rear 80mm fans as exhaust. You'd probably see lower overall temps with this, but could increase interior case temps. You'll have to test and see what works best for you.


----------



## Nerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> It's been debated many times, but EVERY time I have tested it, I found push is always better than pull (by several degrees or more) and push-pull is always several degrees better than just push. Better air flow through the rad = more heat dissipated. I always cringe when i see rads in pull only because I know it can perform better.
> 
> So, first try just push and if that's still not enough, go push-pull. In push-pull, you shouldn't need to scream the fans either. Maybe 50-60% max and you should see the temp level out lower than before.
> 
> Also, make sure you have enough fresh air coming into your case. The 250D is quite small so here's what I would suggest:
> Have at least a 140mm intake fan at the front (it can fit a 200mm). Mount your H60 and GPU AIO beside each other on the side of the case (I believe this is the only place to mount AIOs in the 250D) and have both in push or push-pull and set to exhaust. Install 2x 80mm fans in the rear as INTAKE. You need as much fresh air inside the case for the rads as possible.
> 
> Alternatively, have both AIOs as intakes (again in push or push-pull) and have the 2x rear 80mm fans as exhaust. You'd probably see lower overall temps with this, but could increase interior case temps. You'll have to test and see what works best for you.


I agree with you on the push vs. pull. Push always seems to be able to generate more pressure.

I cannot mount 2 120mm radiators to the side unfortunately due to radiator's larger than 120 mm size. They protrude a little bit. So, front rad exhaust, side cpu rad exhaust (i'm not going to dump heat into that tiny case so intake rad out of question), there's only 2nd side fan left. Is it wise to put it as intake? It would be intake and exhaust side by side. Otherwise i'm relying on negative pressure for airflow.

I will try push/pull on the front GPU rad. I will post the results once I get to it.


----------



## Ultisym

Between GPU and CPU the GPU is almost always going to generate more heat and generate the heat for much longer periods of time than the CPU.

I have my CPU radiator fans on intake and both GPU radiators set to exhaust. Its working out well. What CPU do you run?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nerat*
> 
> I agree with you on the push vs. pull. Push always seems to be able to generate more pressure.
> 
> I cannot mount 2 120mm radiators to the side unfortunately due to radiator's larger than 120 mm size. They protrude a little bit. So, front rad exhaust, side cpu rad exhaust (i'm not going to dump heat into that tiny case so intake rad out of question), there's only 2nd side fan left. Is it wise to put it as intake? It would be intake and exhaust side by side. Otherwise i'm relying on negative pressure for airflow.
> 
> I will try push/pull on the front GPU rad. I will post the results once I get to it.


You might be able to mount the two 120mm AIOs side by side if you turn them so the end tanks are vertical (top and bottom). You'd also have to remove the 5.25 drive bay (unless you're using it) to make room, but it looks like it could work (looking at photos).

Don't forget you have 2 rear 80mm fans you could also have as intake.


----------



## Nerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Between GPU and CPU the GPU is almost always going to generate more heat and generate the heat for much longer periods of time than the CPU.
> 
> I have my CPU radiator fans on intake and both GPU radiators set to exhaust. Its working out well. What CPU do you run?


6700K 4,5 GHz 1,31v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> You might be able to mount the two 120mm AIOs side by side if you turn them so the end tanks are vertical (top and bottom). You'd also have to remove the 5.25 drive bay (unless you're using it) to make room, but it looks like it could work (looking at photos).
> 
> Don't forget you have 2 rear 80mm fans you could also have as intake.


It's unfortunately not possible, the end tanks hit MB tray on the side next to MB. 2nd rad can only be mounted in the front.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nerat*
> 
> It's unfortunately not possible, the end tanks hit MB tray on the side next to MB. 2nd rad can only be mounted in the front.


I see it now yeah. Was hard to tell just by pictures. But yeah, go push-pull on the GPU rad if you can and populate those 2x 80mm fan mounts at the back with two intake fans to help lower interior temps and get a bit more fresh air to the GPU rad.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nerat*
> 
> 6700K 4,5 GHz 1,31v


You should have no issue running the radiator for that CPU as intake should you decide to do so. The GPU radiator dumps a lot of heat and with few exceptions, running them exhaust is the best way to set this mod up.


----------



## Nerat

OK, I'm taking this thread hostage







. Let's elaborate bit more.

First thing is that this is where my case sits in. It's an IKEA Kallax unit. It may seem like i'm suffocating the case, this is what i though at first but trust me, i tried with the case outside in the open, also without top cover with no real change in temps, so this is not a problem. That's why i like this case. I have more space on and under my desk, it's like it's hidden.



This is how the GPU look like:



So i prefer to keep 80 mm openings as passive intake / exhaust as i don't believe they would generate more airflow than noise. Plus, i don't want to crowd the case any more. In all of the below potential setups, front GPU rad will be used as push/pull with 2 ML120 fans, CPU rad needs to be turned 180 degrees, hose inlets up, to allow for gpu rad push/pull w/sp120 push conf and CM JetFlo on the side for airflow.

First setup:



Second possible setup:



Third possible setup:



Right now, all the fans are set as exhaust, heat quickly accumulates in the case and i needed to evacuate it. Which do you think would be best given the information above?


----------



## Ultisym

You should try several arrangements to see which works best for you, but my first choice with that particular scenario would be Intake through CPU (It will get nice cool air this way and it doesnt generate as much heat as a performance GPU), Exhaust the fan on the GPU radiator and I would also exhaust the fan below the GPU Radiator. This should give you good flow across the mainboard and VRMs etc.


----------



## Nerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> You should try several arrangements to see which works best for you, but my first choice with that particular scenario would be Intake through CPU (It will get nice cool air this way and it doesnt generate as much heat as a performance GPU), Exhaust the fan on the GPU radiator and I would also exhaust the fan *below* the GPU Radiator. This should give you good flow across the mainboard and VRMs etc.


You mean the fan to the left of CPU rad i guess, this is a horizontal setup







. Interesting though. Ideally it would be best to try out all but it takes time and between work and daily stuff it's tight. I think i will try yours, 1st and 3rd picture in order. If i can do it and log the results it can be interesting to everyone. (Hopefully if i find the time). Thank you all


----------



## mnemo_05

I find that having the fans on my rads set to exhaust the hot all from my case more effective compared to having them intake fresh air and dumping the hot air in the case

i modded my case a bit to add a 92mm intake in front


as for my top 240mm rad and rear 120mm rad, both are set to exhaust

I used to have all the fans as intake, but since switching to my current config it improved my CPU temps by around 4c-5c

That being said, I would go with your 3rd set-up.

Just a question thought, is it possible to mount the GPU rad on the same side panel as your CPU rad? that will of course allow you to set your front as intake which will be beneficial as your front panel supports bigger fans(180mm)


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nerat*
> 
> OK, I'm taking this thread hostage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Let's elaborate bit more.
> 
> First thing is that this is where my case sits in. It's an IKEA Kallax unit. It may seem like i'm suffocating the case, this is what i though at first but trust me, i tried with the case outside in the open, also without top cover with no real change in temps, so this is not a problem. That's why i like this case. I have more space on and under my desk, it's like it's hidden.
> 
> 
> 
> This is how the GPU look like:
> 
> 
> 
> So i prefer to keep 80 mm openings as passive intake / exhaust as i don't believe they would generate more airflow than noise. Plus, i don't want to crowd the case any more. In all of the below potential setups, front GPU rad will be used as push/pull with 2 ML120 fans, CPU rad needs to be turned 180 degrees, hose inlets up, to allow for gpu rad push/pull w/sp120 push conf and CM JetFlo on the side for airflow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First setup:
> 
> 
> 
> Second possible setup:
> 
> 
> 
> Third possible setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now, all the fans are set as exhaust, heat quickly accumulates in the case and i needed to evacuate it. Which do you think would be best given the information above?


Do the third option, but:
-change the rads to push or push-pull
-Add two 80mm intake fans at the back as well.

It doesn't help with your PC being kept in a small enclosed space like that either though. The air in that cubby will heat up and it will generally get a bit suffocated.


----------



## masteratarms

Any RX vega adopters?


----------



## sonybao

Can the Kraken G10 combines with ID-Cooling Auraflow 240 RGB ?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonybao*
> 
> Can the Kraken G10 combines with ID-Cooling Auraflow 240 RGB ?


Judging by that image, don't think so.


----------



## sonybao

I wanna mix the Kraken G10 with rgb fan water cooling, anybody has any idea ?


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonybao*
> 
> I wanna mix the Kraken G10 with rgb fan water cooling, anybody has any idea ?


You could use the Thermaltake Water 3.0 with their RGB Riing fans and controller. I believe it is compatible with the G10/12. Just check the compatibility list on NZXT website.


----------



## gekmos

Hi all guys
This is my work, zotac 1080 amp! + g12 + arctic liquid freezer 240
I used copper heatsink for vram, it looks good for now. missing heatsink for vrm vram(20mm*20mm), which is coming, and pwm cable for the video card. At the moment i connected the pump in my lamptron fc2 on 10volt fixed, for a good compromise between noise and performance, same thing for vrm 92mm fan. radiator fans are controlled in pwm via motherboard (custom curve in speedfan) (only pwm and tachymeter signal), but powered by the psu.
temp are so good, with pump 10v and custom fan curve for low noise, with the stock heatsink the max temp is over 80º, now with this the max temp is 45º in heaven bench 4.0 , same in GTA5 1440p with 28º C ambient
sorry my bad/poor language


----------



## gekmos

edit. double post


----------



## knopflerbruce

My two 1080ti Armor OC's w/G10. One with a Kraken X41, and the other with a H90. Both push/pull, fans at 5v. I believe the hotter one is the one on the bottom, not sure if poor mount or just hotter environment due to limited space below the case.


----------



## masteratarms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masteratarms*
> 
> Any RX vega adopters?


Some other peeps are using vega with G10 bracket:
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/rx-vega-with-kraken-g10-aio-mod.18792093/

Score 365, GPU 6850 @849/1100, CPU Q9550 @3.81
Score 424, GPU 6850 @1030/1200, CPU 4690k @4.5
Score 1001, GPU 280X @1150/1600, CPU 4690k @4.5

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/31163348
Same CPU and all, new RX vega 56. My first dabble at increasing the settings after installing OcUK Techlabs AIO GPU cooler, settings garnered from watching youtube re. 1100mv state 6/7 and 950 on memory. Its supposed to be good for 1050-1100 memory with the 64 bios.

https://imgur.com/a/9mRax

Score 2234, GPU RX Vega 56 @1580/950, CPU 4690k @4.5

Finally got it back together. I've got a GPU to 4pin PWM cable into a y-splitter. The sence signal is on the G10 mounted fan. The other side of the y-splitter is connected to a loom of 5 pwm splitters connected to the 4 rad fans and a fifth directed at the other side of the mosfets.

I've been also working on getting my 280x into a saleable condition with stock heatsink + bought 2 packs of 4mm high ramsinks but only used 1. I modded a single heatsink to go between the heatpipes and I'll have to put some akasa thermal gap filler for the rest cause I don't feel like sanding 10 copper 4mm sinks to 2mm.

Edit:
First thing I tried was 3dmark and got a reboot. Then played eternal crusade (f2p got steam workshop now too). Then Unigine benchmark. Using 17.9.1.
Edit: Just ran 3dmark, reboot may have been browser related (text corruption to crash, reported to amd, not in pre vega drivers).

Edit:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/giga...cooled-graphics-card-aqua-pack-gx-19k-gi.html
My mod adds over £420 value and I have a 240mm rad lol except I've got a 56.

Edit:
Pictures:
http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1670337/rx-vega-56-g10-kraken


----------



## knopflerbruce

Scored a H105 "open box" from a local score. That's a pretty sweet one for this purpose, I guess. Even got some spare fans


----------



## sandmanza

Using with a backplate

I have a Powercolor PCS+ R 390 8GB and have been using the G10 for some time now, however my card has started to flex so I looked at options for the backplate.

I ended up having success not using the NZXT kraken one, while the screws did not fit perfectly as I did not use the nuts nor washers and it was harder to align the g10 it is working great.

Just thought I'd add this for people thinking of doing the same.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sandmanza*
> 
> Using with a backplate
> 
> I have a Powercolor PCS+ R 390 8GB and have been using the G10 for some time now, however my card has started to flex so I looked at options for the backplate.
> 
> I ended up having success not using the NZXT kraken one, while the screws did not fit perfectly as I did not use the nuts nor washers and it was harder to align the g10 it is working great.
> 
> Just thought I'd add this for people thinking of doing the same.


Yeah I never use the next back plate when the graphics card has a factory back plate. Is the card still flexing? It may not necessarily be the G-10. Some cards just do that with a little time. Typically never affects performance but annoying to look at for sure as much as we pay for these graphics cards.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knopflerbruce*
> 
> My two 1080ti Armor OC's w/G10. One with a Kraken X41, and the other with a H90. Both push/pull, fans at 5v. I believe the hotter one is the one on the bottom, not sure if poor mount or just hotter environment due to limited space below the case.


The hotter one is usually in the top slot but there are no absolutes. Still the variance between the two should be less than 5C in my experience. Which cooler is on the hottest GPU? I would start with reseating the hotter running cooler.


----------



## sandmanza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Yeah I never use the next back plate when the graphics card has a factory back plate. Is the card still flexing? It may not necessarily be the G-10. Some cards just do that with a little time. Typically never affects performance but annoying to look at for sure as much as we pay for these graphics cards.


It's stopped flexing, now its just the natural sag of a long card


----------



## mikailmohammed

Guys i will be mounting this on my 1080 pretty soon, well the g12. Do i need heatsinks for the ram?? I will be overclocking.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Guys i will be mounting this on my 1080 pretty soon, well the g12. Do i need heatsinks for the ram?? I will be overclocking.


Yes, GDDR5x responds very well to low temperatures.


----------



## sinholueiro

Have the MSI 1080 Armor the same VRAM and VRM heatsinks as the Gaming X? If so, it is needed further cooling or it is enough?


----------



## knopflerbruce

The design seems veeery similar to the 1080ti armor OC. At 0.95V I've had no issues whatsoever running [email protected] for a few weeks. Voltage dropped due to power bills, not VRM heat.


----------



## blaze2210

Dang, I'd join, but I went with the G12 for my 1070....


----------



## sinholueiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knopflerbruce*
> 
> The design seems veeery similar to the 1080ti armor OC. At 0.95V I've had no issues whatsoever running [email protected] for a few weeks. Voltage dropped due to power bills, not VRM heat.


Thanks! And do you have the VRAM with heatsinks or covered with the plate that the card has?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Dang, I'd join, but I went with the G12 for my 1070....


Well, as what I see, this is like a G10/G12 club. There are plenty of people with the G12 here.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinholueiro*
> 
> Well, as what I see, this is like a G10/G12 club. There are plenty of people with the G12 here.


Cool, that works for me...I completed the little form in the OP.... I'm using heatsinks on my fan-side memory modules and VRMs. Once I get some more Kryonaut, I'm going to grind off a little bit of the pieces of the G12 that attach to the video card, so I can put my stock backplate back on.

To save anyone some effort, I have the EVGA 1070 SC.


----------



## knopflerbruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinholueiro*
> 
> Thanks! And do you have the VRAM with heatsinks or covered with the plate that the card has?
> Well, as what I see, this is like a G10/G12 club. There are plenty of people with the G12 here.


No sinks added, it's 100% plain apart from the G10/AiO combo


----------



## Baden

Hi Guys,

I've currently got an Aorus Xtreme 1080 Ti and want to put a Kraken G12/10 on it. But i would like to keep the back plate on if possible with the RGB lights.

Does anyone know/tried to keep the back plate on and still fit?

Cheers.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I've currently got an Aorus Xtreme 1080 Ti and want to put a Kraken G12/10 on it. But i would like to keep the back plate on if possible with the RGB lights.
> 
> Does anyone know/tried to keep the back plate on and still fit?
> 
> Cheers.


If the GPU die area is similar to my 1070, then you'd need to grind the mounts for the G12 a bit so you can mount them and retain the mid and back plates, and use a copper shim to close the gap between the cooler and the die. I finally got around to doing this, but was too caught up in the process to take very many pics. You'll be grinding both of the corners on each of the screw holes for the mounting brackets in order to clear the midplate.


----------



## Baden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> If the GPU die area is similar to my 1070, then you'd need to grind the mounts for the G12 a bit so you can mount them and retain the mid and back plates, and use a copper shim to close the gap between the cooler and the die. I finally got around to doing this, but was too caught up in the process to take very many pics. You'll be grinding both of the corners on each of the screw holes for the mounting brackets in order to clear the midplate.


There is a youtube video of someone who has the non Xtreme version and it looks like it doesn't have the plate around the chip like your card so should be ok with that!

Just the back plate really, but yeah might need a copper shim if there is a gap.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> There is a youtube video of someone who has the non Xtreme version and it looks like it doesn't have the plate around the chip like your card so should be ok with that!
> 
> Just the back plate really, but yeah might need a copper shim if there is a gap.


That's good! Having to grind the bracket was kind of a pain, but better the bracket than my midplate - the GPUs warranty is more important to me than the G12.









When I was running without the plates, the cooler made contact just fine on my card, but yours also has that insulation (?) around the die that mine doesn't have.


----------



## sprach

Quick questions: Is the G12 compatible with a Zotac 1080TI Amp? Is it possible to keep the stock back plate and VRM heatsinks? Do I need to mount RAM heatsinks? Has anyone dealt with this combo before?
Thanks for the replies.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprach*
> 
> Quick questions: Is the G12 compatible with a Zotac 1080TI Amp? Is it possible to keep the stock back plate and VRM heatsinks? Do I need to mount RAM heatsinks? Has anyone dealt with this combo before?
> Thanks for the replies.


*From NZXT:*

In order for a Non-Reference Card to be compatible, it must have the following

-The same mounting screw positions as the reference version of the card

-The Mosfets located on the right side of the card, so that the G12 Fan will provide sufficient cooling.

Below is a reference image that gives you a better idea of placement. Please use your best judgment when using the Kraken G12 with a non-reference card.



Source: https://support.nzxt.com/hc/en-us/articles/115001270533-What-Graphic-Cards-are-Compatible-with-the-Kraken-G12-


----------



## BigBeard86

Which 1080Ti is best for watercooling with the g10? By this i mean, which have top quality vrm and provide a higher power limit to the cards?

midplate is not important, as i will mount heatsinks on the vrm modules.

Is it important to cooler anything on the backside of the card? If so, what?


----------



## zzeton

Hi! Have a question about the connection to the cpu connection on motherboard. It says that i shall connect the 3 pin on the power connector to cpu fan connector on motherboard but i have already another cpu pump connected to it so were shall i connect the kraken 3 pin at the power connector on kraken ? (kraken is for my GPU)


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzeton*
> 
> Hi! Have a question about the connection to the cpu connection on motherboard. It says that i shall connect the 3 pin on the power connector to cpu fan connector on motherboard but i have already another cpu pump connected to it so were shall i connect the kraken 3 pin at the power connector on kraken ? (kraken is for my GPU)


Connect it to whatever open fan header you have. There would be no good sense in connecting it to your CPU fan header.


----------



## zzeton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Connect it to whatever open fan header you have. There would be no good sense in connecting it to your CPU fan header.


Ok thx but i thought the pump needed 12 v =)


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzeton*
> 
> Ok thx but i thought the pump needed 12 v =)


So you're actually referring to the liquid cooler, not the fan on the bracket? It pays to be descriptive, though I could have also asked to confirm. My apologies on that.... A lot of motherboards seem to have a secondary CPU header these days, which can be used for this. Its always a bit tough to give advice without knowing what you even have though....

What Kraken AIO, and what motherboard are you using?


----------



## zzeton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> So you're actually referring to the liquid cooler, not the fan on the bracket? It pays to be descriptive, though I could have also asked to confirm. My apologies on that.... A lot of motherboards seem to have a secondary CPU header these days, which can be used for this. Its always a bit tough to give advice without knowing what you even have though....
> 
> What Kraken AIO, and what motherboard are you using?


Sry my bad im using the kraken x62 for my gpu that this is about and asus x370 prime =)


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzeton*
> 
> Sry my bad im using the kraken x62 for my gpu that this is about and asus x370 prime =)


The image below should help you out. It looks like you actually have 2 headerss that are specified as "AIO Headers", so those seem to be the obvious choice, and they're centrally located between the CPU and top GPU slot....

A helpful note: It's always useful to fill out the Rigbuilder with your components, and add it to your signature on here. That way, whenever you ask for help, you don't have to keep listing what you have, you can just mention that its the one in your sig. .


----------



## zzeton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> The image below should help you out. It looks like you actually have 2 headerss that are specified as "AIO Headers", so those seem to be the obvious choice, and they're centrally located between the CPU and top GPU slot....
> 
> A helpful note: It's always useful to fill out the Rigbuilder with your components, and add it to your signature on here. That way, whenever you ask for help, you don't have to keep listing what you have, you can just mention that its the one in your sig. .


This!

Thx alot, made my day =))

Sry for my lack of understanding my motherboards instructions but when you say i can put the pump there i can do it without any insecure.

Thx again=)


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzeton*
> 
> This!
> 
> Thx alot, made my day =))


This board looks like they finally put some thought into where the headers should go, and what people are likely doing with them.... That's a nice little touch....


----------



## roona

Hi guys, I've seen a lot of posts about how the Corsair H100i V2 is not compatible with the G12 because it's not on the list, and well, that's not entirely accurate. Figured I'd do a quick write up for anyone who wants to try this in the future. TL;DR: Yes, the H100i V2 works with the G12 on Nvidia cards, with some caveats.

The H100i V2 is an Asetek cooler and has the standard Asetek mounting. However, Corsair put a square-ish plastic shroud on the back of the cooler that slightly blocks the G12. In order to fit the G12 on, you will have to push down quite hard on the G12 plate while rotating it in place. See this picture:



From this perspective, you have to push down on the G12. If it still does not go on, you have to take out the four screws circled in red - these hold down the back plastic shroud in place and have nothing to do with the actual water cooling bits. I found it impossible to take the H100i V2 out of the G12 bracket without pulling out those screws and separating the back plastic shroud from the pump assembly.

Remember how I said that the H100i V2 will work with Nvidia cards only? This is why.



The AMD mounting holes (the ones closest to the shroud) are blocked by the shroud. The thumbscrews included with the G12 are big enough that you can't use the AMD holes. You might be able to find some screws with a small enough head to fit on there, but YMMV. The included thumbscrews will just barely fit the Nvidia holes.



The thumbscrews will just fit in the Nvidia holes, but they will scrape slightly. Use a screwdriver and it'll all work fine.

Aside from these few bits, everything else installs just the same as any other Asetek cooler.


----------



## knopflerbruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBeard86*
> 
> Which 1080Ti is best for watercooling with the g10? By this i mean, which have top quality vrm and provide a higher power limit to the cards?
> 
> midplate is not important, as i will mount heatsinks on the vrm modules.
> 
> Is it important to cooler anything on the backside of the card? If so, what?


I haven't had any other 1080 ticards than MSI Armor OC, but my guess is that ASUS Strix is top tier. Do not really know much about power limit, though (I undervolt my cards to save power).


----------



## sinholueiro

Well, my 1080 is watercooled. Kraken G12 and Thermaltake Water 3.0 Extreme. My temps are now 2083Mhz at ~65 degrees instead of ~1600Mhz at the same degrees. It seems that the temperatures are a bit higher than expected for a 240mm radiator, but the airflow is a bit constrained and the fans are at low rpms.


----------



## gekmos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinholueiro*
> 
> Well, my 1080 is watercooled. Kraken G12 and Thermaltake Water 3.0 Extreme. My temps are now 2083Mhz at ~65 degrees instead of ~1600Mhz at the same degrees. It seems that the temperatures are a bit higher than expected for a 240mm radiator, but the airflow is a bit constrained and the fans are at low rpms.


very`high temperature man. my arctic liquid freezer 240 with 4 fans push pull 30% 900rpm @2100Mhz is running at 45º max (~21/22º T.amb)


----------



## sinholueiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gekmos*
> 
> very`high temperature man. my arctic liquid freezer 240 with 4 fans push pull 30% 900rpm @2100Mhz is running at 45º max (~21/22º T.amb)


What I thought. 45 degrees would be amazing. I think that the AIO has to be touching with the GPU, because if not, the temps would be a serious problem. I have to check the fan rpms. Also, I don't have push&pull, I only have push and with fan filters that restrict the air. Maybe I have to test that area. Thanks!


----------



## gekmos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinholueiro*
> 
> What I thought. 45 degrees would be amazing. I think that the AIO has to be touching with the GPU, because if not, the temps would be a serious problem. I have to check the fan rpms. Also, I don't have push&pull, I only have push and with fan filters that restrict the air. Maybe I have to test that area. Thanks!


I understand your situation, anyway i run test for you this morning, as mentioned earlier, with 30% fan (~900rpm), pump set to about ~10volt ( i controlled them by fan controller, so i not view rpm speed) with ungine heaven bench 4.0. i attach screen of test


----------



## sinholueiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gekmos*
> 
> I understand your situation, anyway i run test for you this morning, as mentioned earlier, with 30% fan (~900rpm), pump set to about ~10volt ( i controlled them by fan controller, so i not view rpm speed) with ungine heaven bench 4.0. i attach screen of test


Will check this afternoon, after work. I will put the radiator without restrictions and see if it's that or it is a mounting problem. Thanks! I will report back. Also, the memory is at 10.4Ghz effective? I think that 11Ghz is very achievable.


----------



## sinholueiro

The fans were in pull mode and pushing air out of the case. I put them in push and getting air inside the case, as I intended initially. As how it was, the radiator was air-starved. With enough aiflow in pull, I was getting 52 degrees, and now, with push, I am at 47 degrees and 2.1Ghz. Much better now. Thanks for everything, now I am mucho more happy. As a drawback, now I push hot air inside the case and the CPU radiator gets the air a little hotter, so my CPU temps are a couple of degrees up, but nothing too important.


----------



## gekmos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinholueiro*
> 
> Will check this afternoon, after work. I will put the radiator without restrictions and see if it's that or it is a mounting problem. Thanks! I will report back. Also, the memory is at 10.4Ghz effective? I think that 11Ghz is very achievable.


the memory is at 10.5ghz effective, i did not test any value so far.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinholueiro*
> 
> The fans were in pull mode and pushing air out of the case. I put them in push and getting air inside the case, as I intended initially. As how it was, the radiator was air-starved. With enough aiflow in pull, I was getting 52 degrees, and now, with push, I am at 47 degrees and 2.1Ghz. . Thanks for everything, now I am mucho more happy. As a drawback, now I push hot air inside the case and the CPU radiator gets the air a little hotter, so my CPU temps are a couple of degrees up, but nothing too important.


yes my friend, sure is much better now! compliments.
also my cpu gets hot air from the aio of gpu. but it is not very important, the difference is negligible, about 3 degrees in game. maybe I'll study something to fix this "problem" soon, maybe install another 240mm aio also for the cpu..


----------



## sinholueiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gekmos*
> 
> the memory is at 10.5ghz effective, i did not test any value so far.
> yes my friend, sure is much better now! compliments.
> also my cpu gets hot air from the aio of gpu. but it is not very important, the difference is negligible, about 3 degrees in game. maybe I'll study something to fix this "problem" soon, maybe install another 240mm aio also for the cpu..


I also have an AIO for the CPU, but when I put work in the CPU, I don't game, so no problem to me. The CPU temperature in gaming is lower than before getting the Kraken, so still a good result.


----------



## BigBeard86

What 1080ti's have you guys used with the g10/g12? do all the cards work?


----------



## fleps

Hey guys.

I'm thinking about getting a G12 to put on my 980 TI (MSI gaming model) and I have a few questions:

- I know it's not on the list but does anyone tried to use the G10 or G12 with a EVGA CLC AIO?

- About the fan that comes with the G12, it's possible to install a 120mm fan instead of a 92mm? Either way, which is the most recommended fan type for using on this case, a high pressure fan like for radiators I imagine? Or Air flow?

Thanks!


----------



## avril4ever

Hello guys,

I have a question concerning the G12.

Which do you think would be better to get, a H55 ($84 New in my region) or H110 ($100 open box, not used).

I have a H440 Case and could mount a H110 at the front I think, but, is the tube length of the H110 enough to reach the the GPU?
Or should I just get a H55 and mount it at the back exhaust side of the case?

Thanks!


----------



## fleps

I think this post is abandoned hehehe


----------



## sinholueiro

Or maybe there are specific questions with a specific hardware configuration that the people don't know.

In my setup, my Thermaltake Water 3.0 Extreme S and a MSI 1080 Armor can't be put in front of a Corsair 750D.
And I would go with the 240mm AIO instead of a 120mm one.
The AIOs that can be put in the Kraken G12 are the ones that use the same circular mounting bracket as the NZXT's ones.
I think that is not possible to put a 120mm to cool the VRMs.


----------



## fleps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinholueiro*
> 
> Or maybe there are specific questions with a specific hardware configuration that the people don't know.
> 
> In my setup, my Thermaltake Water 3.0 Extreme S and a MSI 1080 Armor can't be put in front of a Corsair 750D.
> And I would go with the 240mm AIO instead of a 120mm one.
> The AIOs that can be put in the Kraken G12 are the ones that use the same circular mounting bracket as the NZXT's ones.
> I think that is not possible to put a 120mm to cool the VRMs.


Hey, thanks for the answers.

Yeah, the thing is that the EVGA CLC's are square on the top, but at the bottom they are circular:



So it seems they would fit but I'm not sure if the square part may not let it fit, maybe someone already tried =)


----------



## sinholueiro

I think that is compatible, but I can't confirm 100%


----------



## fleps

Yeah, I was looking on this topic gallery and saw someone that mounted a H100i V2 on a g12.

The thing is that the corners need to allow the thumbscrews to fit on the external holes.

Now I need to find the H100i V2 block measures and EVGA CLC block measures to see if the square of the CLC isn't too big or it would now allow to use the thumbscrews.


----------



## fleps

Well I didn't found the measures and looking into pictures sometimes it seems that the EVGA CLC will not fit unless using alternative screws with small head.

You can see in the picture below that the 100i v2 barely fit / have space for the screws:


And then comparing the 100i V2 and the CLC mounted on a LGA 1151 MB it seems from some angles that the 100i v2 has extra space to the 1151 holes / screws, the EVGA looks closer:







Really hard to tell but seems it will not fit =/


----------



## roona

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleps*
> 
> Well I didn't found the measures and looking into pictures sometimes it seems that the EVGA CLC will not fit unless using alternative screws with small head.
> 
> You can see in the picture below that the 100i v2 barely fit / have space for the screws:
> 
> 
> And then comparing the 100i V2 and the CLC mounted on a LGA 1151 MB it seems from some angles that the 100i v2 has extra space to the 1151 holes / screws, the EVGA looks closer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really hard to tell but seems it will not fit =/


I'm the one who put the h100i v2 on my G12. If you rotate the block 45 deg, you should get a tiny bit more space. And of course, the shroud can come off (well, kinda) on these asetek clcs.


----------



## Ultisym

Could you not simply dump the thumbscrews and go with different hardware?


----------



## fleps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roona*
> 
> I'm the one who put the h100i v2 on my G12. If you rotate the block 45 deg, you should get a tiny bit more space. And of course, the shroud can come off (well, kinda) on these asetek clcs.


Humm ok I understand what you are saying.

Still not sure.

The ideal scenario would be someone measure the X distance between the G12 bracket holes (for Nvidia card in my case) and the same for the LGA 1151. If they are have the same distance, it will fit.

I'll try to find those measures, I bet the 1151 is easier to find.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Could you not simply dump the thumbscrews and go with different hardware?


Not sure what you meant with that, sorry.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleps*
> 
> Not sure what you meant with that, sorry.


I'm saying I do not see a reason why you could not go to a hardware store and come up with mounting hardware with a smaller diameter than the thumb screws that would clear the pump housing.


----------



## UndercoverZA

Hi everyone

I have owned a Kraken G10 for quite a while. Initially cooled my 780 lightning and now cooling a 980ti. Recently my friend bought a Gigabyte 980ti G1 Gaming and a Kraken G12. We installed it and noticed that the temps were the same as they were with the Stock air cooler @ ~75 degrees C.

After remounting the Kaken again and experiencing the same temps, I suggested we swap brackets and coolers to test. My Card (MSI Gaming) still runs quite cool and the G1 is still running quite warm. From visual inspection the bracket is definitely mounted properly and the AIO is making proper contact. We did not put any Heatsinks on the G1. The G1 is at stock settings, boosts to 1405Mhz and has a high asic quality (86.8%, not sure if that makes any real difference). The AIO is set to 80% fan speed while the 92mm fan and pump run at 100%.

Has anybody experienced this anomaly? I am confused as to how it could run at the same temp whether on air or water.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UndercoverZA*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> I have owned a Kraken G10 for quite a while. Initially cooled my 780 lightning and now cooling a 980ti. Recently my friend bought a Gigabyte 980ti G1 Gaming and a Kraken G12. We installed it and noticed that the temps were the same as they were with the Stock air cooler @ ~75 degrees C.
> 
> After remounting the Kaken again and experiencing the same temps, I suggested we swap brackets and coolers to test. My Card (MSI Gaming) still runs quite cool and the G1 is still running quite warm. From visual inspection the bracket is definitely mounted properly and the AIO is making proper contact. We did not put any Heatsinks on the G1. The G1 is at stock settings, boosts to 1405Mhz and has a high asic quality (86.8%, not sure if that makes any real difference). The AIO is set to 80% fan speed while the 92mm fan and pump run at 100%.
> 
> Has anybody experienced this anomaly? I am confused as to how it could run at the same temp whether on air or water.


I'd double check if the pump is working on that AIO. It looks like pump failure if you are already sure the mounting is good.


----------



## UndercoverZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I'd double check if the pump is working on that AIO. It looks like pump failure if you are already sure the mounting is good.


I also thought it may be the pump, but after testing one known to work (the one I use on my MSI 980ti) we had the same problem.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UndercoverZA*
> 
> I also thought it may be the pump, but after testing one known to work (the one I use on my MSI 980ti) we had the same problem.


That is very very strange. I doubt the thermals of the GPU have overpowered the AIO. It looks like it's still a contact issue then. Your die/PCB might be slightly different/warped causing insufficient contact.

I would attempt a remount again to be sure but if the issue is reproducible, you can maybe RMA the mounting kit?


----------



## fleps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> That is very very strange. I doubt the thermals of the GPU have overpowered the AIO. It looks like it's still a contact issue then. Your die/PCB might be slightly different/warped causing insufficient contact.
> 
> I would attempt a remount again to be sure but if the issue is reproducible, you can maybe RMA the mounting kit?


This and also I would try to check if the thermal sensors of the VGA are correctly working at all, like putting the fans back and manually leaving them on a 25% while on load to see if the temperature goes up.

A friend once had a problem and after much head scratching we finally figured out the VGA sensors were wrong and he RMA it.


----------



## Mooncheese

Does anyone know if this fits MSI's GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X? Thanks.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Does anyone know if this fits MSI's GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X? Thanks.


Should fit fine. Gamers nexus did it with the armor which is a Gaming X without the backplate. The armor would be easier because it has a separate VRM sink, but either work.


----------



## partypoison25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Does anyone know if this fits MSI's GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X? Thanks.


Fits fine, Can leave the plate for the vram and vrm on and the backplate. Im using it on mine.


----------



## poah

has anyone compared the standard fan to something else?


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partypoison25*
> 
> Fits fine, Can leave the plate for the vram and vrm on and the backplate. Im using it on mine.


did you add some heatsink on the VRMs?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poah*
> 
> has anyone compared the standard fan to something else?


im using the noctua slim 92mms on mine, pushes more air for less noise. unless you are anal about noise, the stock fan is more than decent to keep the vrms cool provided that they have heatsinks on them


----------



## fleps

I wish they launch a new G made to use on vertically mounted VGA's, because with a G10 or G12 really doesn't have a nice look.


----------



## poah

mine is vertical but don't care what it looks like


----------



## teh n00binator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roona*
> 
> Hi guys, I've seen a lot of posts about how the Corsair H100i V2 is not compatible with the G12 because it's not on the list, and well, that's not entirely accurate. Figured I'd do a quick write up for anyone who wants to try this in the future. TL;DR: Yes, the H100i V2 works with the G12 on Nvidia cards, with some caveats.
> 
> The H100i V2 is an Asetek cooler and has the standard Asetek mounting. However, Corsair put a square-ish plastic shroud on the back of the cooler that slightly blocks the G12. In order to fit the G12 on, you will have to push down quite hard on the G12 plate while rotating it in place. See this picture:
> 
> 
> 
> From this perspective, you have to push down on the G12. If it still does not go on, you have to take out the four screws circled in red - these hold down the back plastic shroud in place and have nothing to do with the actual water cooling bits. I found it impossible to take the H100i V2 out of the G12 bracket without pulling out those screws and separating the back plastic shroud from the pump assembly.
> 
> Remember how I said that the H100i V2 will work with Nvidia cards only? This is why.
> 
> 
> 
> The AMD mounting holes (the ones closest to the shroud) are blocked by the shroud. The thumbscrews included with the G12 are big enough that you can't use the AMD holes. You might be able to find some screws with a small enough head to fit on there, but YMMV. The included thumbscrews will just barely fit the Nvidia holes.
> 
> 
> 
> The thumbscrews will just fit in the Nvidia holes, but they will scrape slightly. Use a screwdriver and it'll all work fine.
> 
> Aside from these few bits, everything else installs just the same as any other Asetek cooler.


Think I'm going to try this after Christmas, I've just installed a G12 with a H55 but there's a bit of heat soak on the rad as I've actually ran out of fan headers... so the rad fan is shared with top case fans at a moderate speed which are awfully noisy at full whack (and I can't stick a 240 rad up there as I'm using a 460X with tall RAM so not enough clearance). Also I'd like the GPU temp to control the fan speed so it only ramps up when it needs to.

It's a shame NZXT haven't released an X32 as that would be perfect for my needs.

Edit* I actually installed one of these and seems to be doing the job when controlled by MSI afterburner:



http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/accessories-pwm-fan-adaptor/

I think the RPM & fan speed readouts aren't very accurate as 30% sounds like 60% and so forth, at 30% it keeps the temps down to 55 degrees C at 2088mhz. I'll probably still try the h80i v2 in a few weeks for slightly better temps & the corsair link integration anyway, my h55 is a little old & weathered now.



Excuse the bad quality pic & lack of decent cable management, and yes that is an RGB strip inside the G12...


----------



## Dermen

I joined the club today, put a G10 and H55 on my MSI 980ti.

At first I thought I didn't have it mounted well because the temps kept rising during Heaven until I stopped when it hit 70. I had the 92mm fan and pump running 100%, but the radiator fan was running at about 800rpm. Once I set the rad fan to 100% the max temp is 55C.

I used a 1600rpm Scythe S-Flex on the radiator because it was already installed in the case. I think I'm going to swap it with one of my PWM intake fans and get an adapter to plug it into the graphics card. That way I don't have to manually ramp up the fan speed before gaming.

I ended up plugging the pump into a fan header set at 100%. I originally was going to use a molex adapter but then I realized I would have to add a modular cable. I'm going to see if they have a sata adapter so I can use an existing plug instead of adding more cables.


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dermen*
> 
> I joined the club today, put a G10 and H55 on my MSI 980ti.
> 
> At first I thought I didn't have it mounted well because the temps kept rising during Heaven until I stopped when it hit 70. I had the 92mm fan and pump running 100%, but the radiator fan was running at about 800rpm. Once I set the rad fan to 100% the max temp is 55C.
> 
> I used a 1600rpm Scythe S-Flex on the radiator because it was already installed in the case. I think I'm going to swap it with one of my PWM intake fans and get an adapter to plug it into the graphics card. That way I don't have to manually ramp up the fan speed before gaming.
> 
> I ended up plugging the pump into a fan header set at 100%. I originally was going to use a molex adapter but then I realized I would have to add a modular cable. I'm going to see if they have a sata adapter so I can use an existing plug instead of adding more cables.


Unless you just need the mainboard header freed up for something else its recommended to use the mainboard fan headers for the pumps. You can however (and this may be what your referring to) find adapter cables that allow you to plug the fan for the H55 into the GPU fan header so it can control the speed of the fan based on GPU temperature. Honestly though, its of no consequence unless fan noise is bothering you.


----------



## Dermen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultisym*
> 
> Unless you just need the mainboard header freed up for something else its recommended to use the mainboard fan headers for the pumps. You can however (and this may be what your referring to) find adapter cables that allow you to plug the fan for the H55 into the GPU fan header so it can control the speed of the fan based on GPU temperature. Honestly though, its of no consequence unless fan noise is bothering you.


I am going to plug the pump directly into the PSU to free up a fan header and to ensure it is always at 100%.

I was going to plug the H55 fan into the GPU header for fan control because of noise, I even ordered the adapter. Then I found out Speedfan can control fans based on GPU temp and CPU temp at the same time. Now it not only ramps up the radiator fan during gaming but all the case fans.

The main noise problem was the fan I used though. I had a Scythe S-Flex on the H55 and it is loud compared to my other fans. Its sound is buzzy compared to the other fans hum. I swapped it with a different fan and the noise is much better.


----------



## zincoonx

Happy to say that Kraken G12 fits perfect on my MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X using a NZXT Kraken X52 mounted in the front of my case . It fits with the faceplate and backplate aswell.
Only thing i had to do, was to unscrew the 4 screws that held the cooler in place. Temps are 27c idle and 45c at full load stresstesting (40min)
The performance is impressive over stock cooler! Stable 2152/5508MHz and without throttling down at all


----------



## fleps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zincoonx*
> 
> Happy to say that Kraken G12 fits perfect on my MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X using a NZXT Kraken X52 mounted in the front of my case . It fits with the faceplate and backplate aswell.
> Only thing i had to do, was to unscrew the 4 screws that held the cooler in place. Temps are 27c idle and 45c at full load stresstesting (40min)
> The performance is impressive over stock cooler! Stable 2152/5508MHz and without throttling down at all


That's nice performance.

You could prob do even better using the radiator's fans on the correct position.


----------



## zincoonx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleps*
> 
> That's nice performance.
> 
> You could prob do even better using the radiator's fans on the correct position.


What fans? In the front they are push/pull on the radiator. There are 5 fans in the front.
I have the rad in the bottom since the VRM on the motherboard do get kinda hot. X299 VRM heat issues in a nuttshell. Temps on VRM dropped by 10c when i moved the radiator one slot down. And no change with the GPU


----------



## fleps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zincoonx*
> 
> What fans? In the front they are push/pull on the radiator. There are 5 fans in the front.
> I have the rad in the bottom since the VRM on the motherboard do get kinda hot. X299 VRM heat issues in a nuttshell. Temps on VRM dropped by 10c when i moved the radiator one slot down. And no change with the GPU


Usually the best performance you get is using the radiator as intake getting the colder air from outside, as the majority of WC brands mention on the manual (don't ask me why they said it but ship all AIO with the fans on the wrong position, probably marketing stuff)

But seems you have enough airflow anyway =)


----------



## zincoonx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleps*
> 
> Usually the best performance you get is using the radiator as intake getting the colder air from outside, as the majority of WC brands mention on the manual (don't ask me why they said it but ship all AIO with the fans on the wrong position, probably marketing stuff)
> 
> But seems you have enough airflow anyway =)


You are right, taking air from the outside are always the best, but i think you have misunderstood the picture. All the fans in the front are set as intake, the top fans on the Kraken X62 are pushing air out of the case. Fan in the back is exhaust as well. Since i have the front as intake, i have the top and back as exhaust


----------



## Ultisym

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleps*
> 
> Usually the best performance you get is using the radiator as intake getting the colder air from outside, as the majority of WC brands mention on the manual (don't ask me why they said it but ship all AIO with the fans on the wrong position, probably marketing stuff)
> 
> But seems you have enough airflow anyway =)


The manuals typically say to intake the air because its cooler and thats a good point but all the testing they did was for cooling a cpu. It is not taking into consideration that your using their AIO on a GPU which Generating much more heat than the typical CPU they've tested They have also not taken into account the heat saturation you will get very quickly by dumping all that heat back into the case after gaming for just a few minutes.. With few exceptions, you get your best temperature from AIOs on GPUs with exhausting the heat of the radiator directly from the case. One can go on all day about different setups and configurations and it IS very important to take the time to test and layout your fan and radiator system in a manner that works best (usually requires a little trial and error). But the general idea is to get the most heat exhausted from the case and with few exceptions, at least in my experience, thats most likely to happen exhausting the heat from the GPU radiator directly out of the case.


----------



## NeYCHeV

Hi all.
Sorry for the stupid question , i know its not in the specification but , can someone can confirm that G10 not fit in GTX 1060 full size video card? I dont get it, why its ok with 9** and 1070,1080 but not with 1060 ?
I have Palit GTX 1060 6GB DUAL Fans and i want to try G10 + Kraken x31 but i must be shure its fit...i dont want to spend for them and cant use them after that..
thanks


----------



## TwilightRavens

I get about under about the most stress I can give my GPU probably 62C on my MSI R9 290X Gaming, that's with voltage at +100mv in MSI Afterburner and Power Limit at +50%, 1150MHz on the core and 1425MHz on the memory.


----------



## Ultisym

NeYCHeV said:


> Hi all.
> Sorry for the stupid question , i know its not in the specification but , can someone can confirm that G10 not fit in GTX 1060 full size video card? I dont get it, why its ok with 9** and 1070,1080 but not with 1060 ?
> I have Palit GTX 1060 6GB DUAL Fans and i want to try G10 + Kraken x31 but i must be shure its fit...i dont want to spend for them and cant use them after that..
> thanks


Im not familiar with your GPU in particular but are the vrms on the front or rear of the card? If the are on the front that would be one reason the g-10 wont work for you though you can get around this with a little fabrication.


----------



## thewanted

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about buying a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX or Fractal Design Define C case, and I really want to use a Kraken G12 to cool my noisy 1080 Ti FE card. The problem I have is that I already have a Noctua NH-D15S cooler which will prevent me from installing the Corsair H55 AIO on the rear of the case.

I could get a Kraken X42 AIO which has 400mm hoses and mount it on the front of the case, but I'm loathed to spend more than double on the X42 when I have absolutely no interest in RGB.

Is there any chance than an H55 with its 300mm hoses will reach the front of the case from the G12?


----------



## Scotty99

thewanted said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX or Fractal Design Define C case, and I really want to use a Kraken G12 to cool my noisy 1080 Ti FE card. The problem I have is that I already have a Noctua NH-D15S cooler which will prevent me from installing the Corsair H55 AIO on the rear of the case.
> 
> I could get a Kraken X42 AIO which has 400mm hoses and mount it on the front of the case, but I'm loathed to spend more than double on the X42 when I have absolutely no interest in RGB.
> 
> Is there any chance than an H55 with its 300mm hoses will reach the front of the case from the G12?


Why not something like this?:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...re=corsair_refurbished-_-35-181-098-_-Product

65 bucks for a 240 that should be compatible with g12.


My corsair h50 gets here saturday, i shouldnt have any problems mounting it on a evga 1060ssc/g12 will i? (reference pcb)


----------



## thewanted

Scotty99 said:


> Why not something like this?:
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...re=corsair_refurbished-_-35-181-098-_-Product
> 
> 65 bucks for a 240 that should be compatible with g12.


Thanks but the tubing is only 320mm long so I may still have an issue mounting it to the front of the case.


----------



## Scotty99

thewanted said:


> Thanks but the tubing is only 320mm long so I may still have an issue mounting it to the front of the case.


The define c is one of the stubbiest cases on the market, you would have no trouble reaching the front with either h55 or h105.


----------



## thewanted

Scotty99 said:


> The define c is one of the stubbiest cases on the market, you would have no trouble reaching the front with either h55 or h105.


Thanks  I can't find a single photo online of an AIO mounted to the front of a Define C or Enthoo Evolv mATX case and connected to a G12, hence my apprehension.


----------



## Scotty99

thewanted said:


> Thanks  I can't find a single photo online of an AIO mounted to the front of a Define C or Enthoo Evolv mATX case and connected to a G12, hence my apprehension.


https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Gn29TW

Define c/meshify c are so short you need to be careful with GPU length, only reference length cards will fit with a radiator and one set of fans.


----------



## thewanted

Scotty99 said:


> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Gn29TW
> 
> Define c/meshify c are so short you need to be careful with GPU length, only reference length cards will fit with a radiator and one set of fans.


Thanks! It's not quite what I was looking for since they have 2 fans connected to the AIO which pushes the radiator a bit further away from the front, and it's connected to a CPU.

I found https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/fGccCJ earlier which has a H90 (300mm hoses) connected to a Kraken G10 in a Corsair 350D which is ~40mm longer than a Define C, so it looks like it will work.


----------



## thaihoangcfc

I'm using a R9 290X and my fans died last week so I decided to switch to G10 + H55.
As I have read some users recommend it's better to have the VRM heatsink as the cooling solution will not take care of the VRM. I found most of the R9 290/290x users purchase this kit made by GELID
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gelid-Solutions-Vision-Enhancement-R290/dp/B00K73F60E

It seems to be out of stock as the graphics card is no longer produced, any recommendations for cooling the VRM? as I know some of the thermal pad are not suitable due to temp limit, so I think I must choose the right type of heatsink/thermal pad to get the best result.


----------



## TwilightRavens

thaihoangcfc said:


> I'm using a R9 290X and my fans died last week so I decided to switch to G10 + H55.
> As I have read some users recommend it's better to have the VRM heatsink as the cooling solution will not take care of the VRM. I found most of the R9 290/290x users purchase this kit made by GELID
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gelid-Solutions-Vision-Enhancement-R290/dp/B00K73F60E
> 
> It seems to be out of stock as the graphics card is no longer produced, any recommendations for cooling the VRM? as I know some of the thermal pad are not suitable due to temp limit, so I think I must choose the right type of heatsink/thermal pad to get the best result.


I’ll tell you what I did, when I first cooled my 290X i was going to do the same combo i have now (G10+H75) but those VRM heatsinks were not in stock for me either, so I bought the Arctic Accellero III and it comes with those VRM sinks. That’s the only solution I can think of for getting the heatsinks, just don’t use that as the actual cooler because it sucks pretty bad.


----------



## Scotty99

Should i plan on having to remove the midplate on my 1060 ssc? Its a founder edition PCB so im sure it will work fine, but not sure it will work with midplate and corsair h50.


----------



## TwilightRavens

Scotty99 said:


> Should i plan on having to remove the midplate on my 1060 ssc? Its a founder edition PCB so im sure it will work fine, but not sure it will work with midplate and corsair h50.


Can't speak for the 1060, but I had to remove the backplate on my 290X, dunno if that helps but I tried.


----------



## poah

only 4 screws to remove the rad on my msi gaming X 480. midplate and back plate didn't have to be removed.


----------



## Scotty99

Ok so i just got my H50 in the mail, these dont come with PWM fans lol? I am planning on changing it but i just found it odd that it comes with a 3 pin fan.


----------



## Scotty99

Welp i just installed the H50 onto the kraken g12, i reallly thought i bought the wrong AIO at first given nzxt website specifys a particular model only (which i saw after i bought it lol) but disregarding instructions i just slipped the H50 through the mount not even attatching to anything from the corsair box, then lined up the holes and tightened down the thumbscrews with the washers onto the g12. Did i do this right lol? It seems so sketchy but its on there and its working (24c idle temps vs 37c with stock cooler).

Oh also the H50 was making some terrible noises when i first turned it on but quieted down after about 45 seconds, i even shut pc at first it was so loud lol.

Also #2, i did have to remove the midplate on my evga 1060 ssc 6gb ACX card, there was no way the brackets were fitting with it installed.

Also #3, wow these temps lol. Ive only been gaming 5 minutes but HWinfo reports max temp of 43c on my GPU core, with stock cooler it would have been 72c minimum. Boost clocks are also up a tad bit from 1999 to 2012, that is stock settings no overclock. What a beast.


----------



## Scotty99

Not that im worried but since i installed this cooler a bit differently than most guides suggest, is it ok to use none of the corsair hardware for mounting these things? In the kraken guide one of the steps is "affix the cooler to the g12" well my cooler isnt attatched to the G12 at all, if i removed the 4 thumbscrews attatching the h50 to the g12 it would fall right out of the holes (obviously after you rotated the pump head to slide the notches through).

So after watching this video surely my AIO is not supposed to work with this kit lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7r_2rE1yro#t=4m50s

When jay turns the pump block it attatches securely to the kraken g12, mine does not do that at all its loose but i was able to line up the tabs on the kraken with the corsair H50 and then screw the thumbscrews in to hold it secure. I dont know if this is intended or what, but it works and i guess ill stop worrying about it : )

Max temps my card gets to is 46c i just played overwatch for an hour, thats nearly a 30c drop from the dual fan ACX cooler that evga put on it.

Edit:
So after seeing this on a G10 and a older style kraken cooler my worries are gone, to my surprise that is actually how these things are supposed to be mounted lol, they just sit there free balling it til you screw the pump onto the G12:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqZhiQNH_Xc#t=9m10s


----------



## TwilightRavens

Scotty99 said:


> Ok so i just got my H50 in the mail, these dont come with PWM fans lol? I am planning on changing it but i just found it odd that it comes with a 3 pin fan.


Yeah even my H60, H75 and H100i had 3 pin fans (though I replaced them with the Corsair SP120's red LED fans on the H75 and H100i and even those are 3 pin) I sold the H60 to a buddy to cool his R7 1700 so I had no use for replacing the fans on it. Only thing I can really suggest is connect it to a fan controller hub if you are concerned with fan speeds/noise.


----------



## Scotty99

Its actually pretty quiet but i might change it out to nzxt fans just for aesthetics. Odd thing tho the specs on it say its a 1700 rpm fan but mine varies from 1100-1400 rpm, is it possible my motherboard is smart enough to detect its a 3pin fan and changes to voltage mode automatically?


----------



## DiceAir

ok so I want to order a g12 with a h55 for my Galax hof 980 ti. Seeing as my card doesn't have any cooling on the vrm if I remove the cooler do you guys think I should be safe if I just cool it with the fan. My specs is a corsair air 540 with 3x 120mm intake fans. I will be using some spare corsair sp120 that I have lying around here on the radiator. if not please recommend me some heatsinks that I can buy for the vrm and maybe memory cooling.

I really want to do this for lower noise and better temps and maybe I can overclock a bit better.


----------



## Scotty99

90% of this thread is about vrm heatsinks and i dont think are necessary at all, given that the fan is actually blowing down on the VRM. People have a tendency to worry about things that need not be


----------



## DiceAir

Scotty99 said:


> 90% of this thread is about vrm heatsinks and i dont think are necessary at all, given that the fan is actually blowing down on the VRM. People have a tendency to worry about things that need not be


but I won't blame them. if it doesn't cost that much then you might as well add some cooling for even lower temps .amybe if someone can recommend me some for my galax 980 ti hof that would be great. but also if you have proof (don't need to be 980ti hof) that would be nice. Not that I don't trust you I just want some proof to make me more comfortable.


----------



## Scotty99

Jayztwocents did a video and VRM temps were lower than with the stock heatsink, no sinks on VRM:





I saw this video after i ordered the G12 as i was never worried about it in the first place, gotta remember that air coolers need those heatsinks because the VRM is dealing with air already warmed up by the hottest part of the GPU. With an aio like this you have fresh air all the time, GPU air is being exhausted right out of the case.


----------



## DiceAir

Scotty99 said:


> Jayztwocents did a video and VRM temps were lower than with the stock heatsink, no sinks on VRM:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7r_2rE1yro&t=9m00s
> 
> I saw this video after i ordered the G12 as i was never worried about it in the first place, gotta remember that air coolers need those heatsinks because the VRM is dealing with air already warmed up by the hottest part of the GPU. With an aio like this you have fresh air all the time, GPU air is being exhausted right out of the case.


ok cool. Yes I saw that video but if I where to put vrm what would you suggest I go for? My vrm looks different to the reference design. Also would love to add memory heatsinks. I know it's not realy needed but like I said if it doesn't add a lot then might as well get it if I feel my vrm runs hotter than I would like. Anyway thanks for the input so far.


Edit: Just one last question have anyone tried it on a 980ti without adding heatsinks to the vrm?


----------



## TwilightRavens

You may be able to get away with not having VRM heatsinks on a lot of cards, but the 290X, 390X, and all 3 Vega cards it should be a requirement. For example, without them and just that fan blowing on them the VRM’s on my 290X would hit 125C+ with no overclock at all. Now with them I think under a lot of stress they maybe top out at 89C if that (290X VRM’s are rated to run at 105C consistently) so your card may or may not need it, there are some cases where its just non negotiable.


----------



## Coleh

Hey guys, I recently completed my mod of a Gigabyte G1 Gaming 980Ti with a Kraken g12 on it. I'm happy with it,but not satisfied. For some odd reason, my GPU temps are in the 60''s when everyone else appears to be hitting mid 40's upper 50's TOPS. It's a refurbished H55 from corsair strapped to it with some MX-4 as thermal paste. Has anyone else done the mod for this card? Tommorow i'll be taking off the backplate to see if it improves temperatures but wanted to know if anyone else has done this and gotten the same temps. Thanks guys!


----------



## TwilightRavens

Coleh said:


> Hey guys, I recently completed my mod of a Gigabyte G1 Gaming 980Ti with a Kraken g12 on it. I'm happy with it,but not satisfied. For some odd reason, my GPU temps are in the 60''s when everyone else appears to be hitting mid 40's upper 50's TOPS. It's a refurbished H55 from corsair strapped to it with some MX-4 as thermal paste. Has anyone else done the mod for this card? Tommorow i'll be taking off the backplate to see if it improves temperatures but wanted to know if anyone else has done this and gotten the same temps. Thanks guys!


From what I know is the H55 is kind of a weak(ish) cooler for 200w+ cards. But it could be many things, for one when I originally mounted my H75 on my 290X I was getting mid 70’s on the temps, turned out it wasn’t mounted all the way so I tightened it a little more and bam temps were in the mid to upper 50’s. So It’s quite possible that its not seated on it 100%.


----------



## Scotty99

From what ive seen a single 120 aio shoudl look like this temp wise:

1060: max 47c (from my testing lol)
1070: max 50-52c
1080: max 55c
1080ti: max 60c

Not sure if a 1080ti runs hotter than a 980ti or not.


----------



## TwilightRavens

Scotty99 said:


> From what ive seen a single 120 aio shoudl look like this temp wise:
> 
> 1060: max 47c (from my testing lol)
> 1070: max 50-52c
> 1080: max 55c
> 1080ti: max 60c
> 
> Not sure if a 1080ti runs hotter than a 980ti or not.


I'd say on par or slightly higher as its TDP is higher than the 1080 ti.


----------



## Coleh

Small update: I went and got replacement for the H55 and temps are now at 55c-50c, taking off the s340's front panel REALLY helps improve temperatures. My next case will def be more airflow orientated,such as Corsair's 400C. Planning to put a modded bios on it though - thanks for the input regardless guys!


----------



## DiceAir

ok just a little update. I ordered my kraken g12 and corsair h75 for my 980ti. I'm still looking around if I can get some cheap heatsinks and found this https://www.diyelectronics.co.za/st...ers.html?search_query=Thermal+Tape&results=11

I'm from South Africa and this heatsink is so cheap might as well buy them but first have a question. Will it still be better to put heatsinks on memory even if they that small and doesn't cover the whole chip? I know it's a dumb question and I think they will still help and they look like they might do the job but not sure. I can also get the following but they a tad bit more expensive although not much but I can get the other ones for much cheaper if I buy for my mossfet (VRM) and memory.

https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/heatsinks/7500881/

Will the first ones I linked be good enough for my vrm cooling. here is a pcb picture of my card


----------



## Coleh

Yup those are fine and will likely be a little larger than the actual mosfets which will make a neat little line of heatsinks. Make sure to get some heatsinks for your VRAM too.


----------



## DiceAir

Coleh said:


> Yup those are fine and will likely be a little larger than the actual mosfets which will make a neat little line of heatsinks. Make sure to get some heatsinks for your VRAM too.


I will use the same heatsink for my vram as well. The reason for asking is I want to know if they are big enough for my VRAM to do a much better job than going naked vram. I will figure a way to have a fan blow on the vram as well but I suppose just the heatsink and case airflow will be enough.


Another question do I set the radiator as intake or exhaust in front? I only have space to add it in the front I might be able to get it on top but I highly doubt it. I have a phanteks ph-tc14pe as cpu cooler and that thing is huge for my air540. would love to have it as exhaust on top maybe to get some of that heat outside my case but maybe intake is better I don't know maybe someone can enlighten me


----------



## TwilightRavens

DiceAir said:


> I will use the same heatsink for my vram as well. The reason for asking is I want to know if they are big enough for my VRAM to do a much better job than going naked vram. I will figure a way to have a fan blow on the vram as well but I suppose just the heatsink and case airflow will be enough.
> 
> 
> Another question do I set the radiator as intake or exhaust in front? I only have space to add it in the front I might be able to get it on top but I highly doubt it. I have a phanteks ph-tc14pe as cpu cooler and that thing is huge for my air540. would love to have it as exhaust on top maybe to get some of that heat outside my case but maybe intake is better I don't know maybe someone can enlighten me


Personally I originally had mine as an intake in the front, then after I upgraded my CPU cooler i had to move it to the top but I still kept it as an intake. There was no real temp change. But yeah just follow normal case flow guidelines of intake on the front and/or sides and exhaust on the top/rear.


----------



## DiceAir

TwilightRavens said:


> Personally I originally had mine as an intake in the front, then after I upgraded my CPU cooler i had to move it to the top but I still kept it as an intake. There was no real temp change. But yeah just follow normal case flow guidelines of intake on the front and/or sides and exhaust on the top/rear.


ok cool thanks. But do you think these will be good enough to add to my memory chips?

https://www.diyelectronics.co.za/st...ers.html?search_query=Thermal+Tape&results=11


----------



## TwilightRavens

DiceAir said:


> ok cool thanks. But do you think these will be good enough to add to my memory chips?
> 
> https://www.diyelectronics.co.za/st...ers.html?search_query=Thermal+Tape&results=11


Yeah I think I have ones that are very similar to that on my 290X's VRAM chips and they do their job pretty well, better than not having any at all. Personally I think copper ones would probably be a little bit better if you can find any, but the drop wouldn't be massive probably like 2-3C difference at the most.


----------



## DiceAir

TwilightRavens said:


> Yeah I think I have ones that are very similar to that on my 290X's VRAM chips and they do their job pretty well, better than not having any at all. Personally I think copper ones would probably be a little bit better if you can find any, but the drop wouldn't be massive probably like 2-3C difference at the most.


so they the more or less the same size as the ones I'm trying to get thats 9mmx9mm?


----------



## TwilightRavens

DiceAir said:


> so they the more or less the same size as the ones I'm trying to get thats 9mmx9mm?


I think mine were that, or 7mm x 7mm but yeah


----------



## DiceAir

TwilightRavens said:


> I think mine were that, or 7mm x 7mm but yeah


ok i decided to play it safe. i bought 11 of these that's all they had for the VRAM.

https://www.diyelectronics.co.za/st...rry-pi.html?search_query=heat+sink&results=58

and then i bought 25 of these just some spare for the vrm

https://www.diyelectronics.co.za/st...s/145-heatsink-for-stepper-motor-drivers.html

So I'm now thinking should I rather try and see if the copper ones will fit on the Vrm by installing one per +-2 vrm modules or just use the aliminium heatsinks on the vrm. I'm thinking just use all copper on vram and then 1 of the silver ones on the memory then use the left overs on vrm and maybe some other black chips cause why the hell not.

Thanks for the help so far guys. You know I might get away by not adding heatsinks but you can never be to carefull and adding ones can just help me not having to worry about anything and we all know the cooler it runs the better lifespan it has.


----------



## TwilightRavens

So I was messing around yesterday with my gpu, decided to remount the H75 as an exhaust instead of an intake and attach the MSi backplate. Before hand, my max gpu temp on my 290X was about 63, and VRM temp were around 89c, after doing that i now get close to 70c on the core but the vrm temps dropped down to 65-75c. Before when I played skyrim special edition my fps would tank down to about 29 fps in riverwood, after doing all that I now rarely drop below 55 fps. Anyway I didn’t know that VRM temps were affecting my fps in games but i guess it does.


----------



## DiceAir

Ok so I've done my 980ti with h75 now and some heatsinks on memory and vrm. Temps max 43C but my cpu running a bit hotter. I have air 540 phanteks ph-tc14pe on cpu. The following fan config. 3 fans cpu, 1x back exhaust. 2 120mm front then the radiator as intake front I can't really install it anywhere else but maybe at the back. Cpu is 4790k and goes 4.4ghz and temps goes to 70C - 75C in not so cpu demanding games. Should I be worried about cpu temps or should I rather try having the fans as exhaust but I'm scared it will hinder the airflow. So far happy with the card now and to have a drop from 70-80C to 43-45C max is amazing.


----------



## TwilightRavens

DiceAir said:


> Ok so I've done my 980ti with h75 now and some heatsinks on memory and vrm. Temps max 43C but my cpu running a bit hotter. I have air 540 phanteks ph-tc14pe on cpu. The following fan config. 3 fans cpu, 1x back exhaust. 2 120mm front then the radiator as intake front I can't really install it anywhere else but maybe at the back. Cpu is 4790k and goes 4.4ghz and temps goes to 70C - 75C in not so cpu demanding games. Should I be worried about cpu temps or should I rather try having the fans as exhaust but I'm scared it will hinder the airflow. So far happy with the card now and to have a drop from 70-80C to 43-45C max is amazing.


What temps does the cpu pegged at 100% give, i.e. IBT or Aida64 stress?
Because that temp is fine to be honest, but if it goes above 85C that is when I would start to worry.


----------



## DiceAir

Ok so I've done my 980ti with h75 now and some heatsinks on memory and vrm. Temps max 43C but my cpu running a bit hotter. I have air 540 phanteks ph-tc14pe on cpu. The following fan config. 3 fans cpu, 1x back exhaust. 2 120mm front then the radiator as intake front I can't really install it anywhere else but maybe at the back. Cpu is 4790k and goes 4.4ghz and temps goes to 70C - 75C in not so cpu demanding games. Should I be worried about cpu temps or should I rather try having the fans as exhaust but I'm scared it will hinder the airflow. So far happy with the card now and to have a drop from 70-80C to 43-45C max is amazing.


----------



## DiceAir

TwilightRavens said:


> What temps does the cpu pegged at 100% give, i.e. IBT or Aida64 stress?
> Because that temp is fine to be honest, but if it goes above 85C that is when I would start to worry.


in aida64 it goes to 80C - 85C. I know i have issues with my cpu but in gaming it's way lower. i had my radiator in the middle front fan slot. Reason for that was because I wanted cool air to hit cpu and cool ari to hit gpu but actualy my cpu was being cooled by warm radiator so I moved it to bottom slot. Gpu still running like max 45-46C and 50C in heaven benchmark. Cpu temps after moving radiator came down by about 5C. but I'm still not 100% happy.

With non delidded 6700k and weaker hyper 212x on my work pc I can do 1.3V 4.5GHz and temps never exceed 70-73C on asus realbench, aida64, IBT. I know you can't really 100% compare as my work pc has weaker gpu (rx-560) but still for the cpu to only go to 70-73C max is amazing for the clocks I'm running. To compare here's the full specs of both computers

personal rig

i7-4790k @ 4.4GHz 1.180V
ph-tc14pe cpu cooler
980 ti with h75 and heatsinks on vrm and memory
corsair air 540
2x cougar vertex pwm front intake, 1x stock af140L back, radiator front intake
2x HDD bottom of case

Work pc

i7-6700k @ 4.5GHz 1.3V
cooler master hyper 212x
phanteks enthoo pro case
xfx rx-560D
200mm fan intake front, 140mm back exhaust
1x HDD front. 


As you can see my personal rig should be able to at least have same cooling. If I have the GPU rad as exhaust it might help with getting all the heat from gpu out of the case. maybe if I remove 1 of the HDD on the bottom and install a 120-140mm fan it might help with getting more fresh air in the case.


----------



## emanmor

https://imgur.com/a/asCLL2A used thermal adhesive, because the thermal tape was giving to high of vrm temps.


----------



## TwilightRavens

DiceAir said:


> in aida64 it goes to 80C - 85C. I know i have issues with my cpu but in gaming it's way lower. i had my radiator in the middle front fan slot. Reason for that was because I wanted cool air to hit cpu and cool ari to hit gpu but actualy my cpu was being cooled by warm radiator so I moved it to bottom slot. Gpu still running like max 45-46C and 50C in heaven benchmark. Cpu temps after moving radiator came down by about 5C. but I'm still not 100% happy.
> 
> With non delidded 6700k and weaker hyper 212x on my work pc I can do 1.3V 4.5GHz and temps never exceed 70-73C on asus realbench, aida64, IBT. I know you can't really 100% compare as my work pc has weaker gpu (rx-560) but still for the cpu to only go to 70-73C max is amazing for the clocks I'm running. To compare here's the full specs of both computers
> 
> personal rig
> 
> i7-4790k @ 4.4GHz 1.180V
> ph-tc14pe cpu cooler
> 980 ti with h75 and heatsinks on vrm and memory
> corsair air 540
> 2x cougar vertex pwm front intake, 1x stock af140L back, radiator front intake
> 2x HDD bottom of case
> 
> Work pc
> 
> i7-6700k @ 4.5GHz 1.3V
> cooler master hyper 212x
> phanteks enthoo pro case
> xfx rx-560D
> 200mm fan intake front, 140mm back exhaust
> 1x HDD front.
> 
> 
> As you can see my personal rig should be able to at least have same cooling. If I have the GPU rad as exhaust it might help with getting all the heat from gpu out of the case. maybe if I remove 1 of the HDD on the bottom and install a 120-140mm fan it might help with getting more fresh air in the case.


So I mean to ask, is the 4790K delidded or is it stock Intel TIM? I know Devil's Canyon even though Intel said "they improved the TIM under it compared to Haswell" is still crap, my wife's 4690K dropped 20C off of a delid on a Hyper 212 Evo. Also Broadwell and Skylake tend to run quite a bit cooler than Haswell and Devil's Canyon (can verify, at 4GHz my 5775C topped out at maybe 51-54C on a H100i, vs the 4690K my wife has run's in the 60's at the same clocks on the same H100i that I used before I upgraded to Broadwell). Skylake I assume just follows Broadwell in running cool(er), can't verify as I don't own a Skylake CPU.

-Edit: Also wouldn't hurt to add another intake on it as that would create positive pressure in the case, which in my experience has vastly improved temps over having one in and one out.


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## poah

DiceAir said:


> As you can see my personal rig should be able to at least have same cooling. If I have the GPU rad as exhaust it might help with getting all the heat from gpu out of the case. maybe if I remove 1 of the HDD on the bottom and install a 120-140mm fan it might help with getting more fresh air in the case.


don't use the GPU rad as an inlet, the air that comes out is way too hot. Mine vents out the top of the case.


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## DiceAir

TwilightRavens said:


> So I mean to ask, is the 4790K delidded or is it stock Intel TIM? I know Devil's Canyon even though Intel said "they improved the TIM under it compared to Haswell" is still crap, my wife's 4690K dropped 20C off of a delid on a Hyper 212 Evo. Also Broadwell and Skylake tend to run quite a bit cooler than Haswell and Devil's Canyon (can verify, at 4GHz my 5775C topped out at maybe 51-54C on a H100i, vs the 4690K my wife has run's in the 60's at the same clocks on the same H100i that I used before I upgraded to Broadwell). Skylake I assume just follows Broadwell in running cool(er), can't verify as I don't own a Skylake CPU.
> 
> -Edit: Also wouldn't hurt to add another intake on it as that would create positive pressure in the case, which in my experience has vastly improved temps over having one in and one out.


I only reply now cause I didn't see a reaply for a while and forgot that I made this post

My cpu is delidded but I used cooler master nano as it's about the strongest paste i can find here. I can't find any Liquid metal and to import it is way to expensive. What I did was adding a fan on the top where the cpu is located and my temps dropped a bit. Also I have my case laying on it's side so not technically the top but if my air 540 was to be placed normally it would be the top. Anyway my cpu is not overheating or anything like that it's just that I would love to overclock a bit but 4.4GHz is also no sloutch for a 980ti. I don't really get any cpu bottlenecking in any game so far so pretty happy it's just for future when I upgrade to let's say 1180/1180ti or whatever and then my cpu would have to work harder but will have to see if that's the case. 

Also it's winter times although not as cold this winter here in South Africa it's still colder so it helps out. My gpu runs idle/light load 15-20C and on load it runs 30-40C max. If I can get my hands on a broadwell cpu I might upgrade but then again I might as well go 8700k then or wait for 9th gen cause the rumours speculate it will be 8c/16t cpu. So far so good I will just stay with it like it is so far.

I know liquid metal on the die will most probably be the only way to get my temps sorted.



poah said:


> don't use the GPU rad as an inlet, the air that comes out is way too hot. Mine vents out the top of the case.


I can't have it on top due to the cpu cooler that's going to hit the tubes etc. When I upgrade and move my gpu to my other pc I can do it. I have a raidmax sigma case and ample room due to smaller cpu cooler to have the gpu radiator on top.


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## TwilightRavens

DiceAir said:


> I only reply now cause I didn't see a reaply for a while and forgot that I made this post
> 
> My cpu is delidded but I used cooler master nano as it's about the strongest paste i can find here. I can't find any Liquid metal and to import it is way to expensive. What I did was adding a fan on the top where the cpu is located and my temps dropped a bit. Also I have my case laying on it's side so not technically the top but if my air 540 was to be placed normally it would be the top. Anyway my cpu is not overheating or anything like that it's just that I would love to overclock a bit but 4.4GHz is also no sloutch for a 980ti. I don't really get any cpu bottlenecking in any game so far so pretty happy it's just for future when I upgrade to let's say 1180/1180ti or whatever and then my cpu would have to work harder but will have to see if that's the case.
> 
> Also it's winter times although not as cold this winter here in South Africa it's still colder so it helps out. My gpu runs idle/light load 15-20C and on load it runs 30-40C max. If I can get my hands on a broadwell cpu I might upgrade but then again I might as well go 8700k then or wait for 9th gen cause the rumours speculate it will be 8c/16t cpu. So far so good I will just stay with it like it is so far.
> 
> I know liquid metal on the die will most probably be the only way to get my temps sorted.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't have it on top due to the cpu cooler that's going to hit the tubes etc. When I upgrade and move my gpu to my other pc I can do it. I have a raidmax sigma case and ample room due to smaller cpu cooler to have the gpu radiator on top.


Broadwell would be a good choice, but its a minor upgrade if anything if you replace a 4790K with it unless you can find one for under $300 it wouldn’t really be worth it unless you can clock it to about 4.2GHz, I mean sure if it’s clocked at 4.3GHz its about on par with a 4790K clocked at 4.7-4.8GHz but not a lot of them will clock that high under 1.4v. I would stick with what you have then just overclock it further if needed. Of course now if you have a 4690K then the jump would probably be more with it but chances are there that a 4770K or 4790K would be a cheaper buy. But since you have an i7 already don’t worry about it. Anyway have you looked up Cool Laboratory Liquid Ultra, it fairly affordable and it one of the best besides Thermal Grizzly.


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## Biscottoman

Hi guys! Actually I'm looking too into make a g12+h90 setup for the news upcoming nvidia gpus (hope they will come out asap) even If at the moment I cannot know if it will be compatible with these vgas. My actual amazon chart is the current, should I add something like vrm heatsink? And in case could u suggest me a good vrm heatsink for this setup? Thanks for the help


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## Paneloux1

Can you walk me through how you mounted the GPU in your InWin case at such an angle?


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## Ultisym

Biscottoman said:


> Hi guys! Actually I'm looking too into make a g12+h90 setup for the news upcoming nvidia gpus (hope they will come out asap) even If at the moment I cannot know if it will be compatible with these vgas. My actual amazon chart is the current, should I add something like vrm heatsink? And in case could u suggest me a good vrm heatsink for this setup? Thanks for the help


Best thing to do is find a GPU that comes with a good heatsink already mounted on the VRMs. That will save you the headache.


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## TwilightRavens

So does anyone know if this will work on a MSI R9 380? Was thinking about getting another G10 bracket and overclocking the piss out of my 380.


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## Biscottoman

Hi guys, I have a question: is the kraken g12 going to be compatible with the new Turing GPUs? Especially with the RTX 2080Ti which has a huge die, I'd like to know if it will fit that. Thanks to anyone who'll help me.


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## TwilightRavens

Biscottoman said:


> Hi guys, I have a question: is the kraken g12 going to be compatible with the new Turing GPUs? Especially with the RTX 2080Ti which has a huge die, I'd like to know if it will fit that. Thanks to anyone who'll help me.


If they follow the same reference layout then I imagine it would probably work fine.


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## Scotty99

Hey guys im ready to upgrade gpu's, what would be the cheapest 1080 with reference pcb?


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## TwilightRavens

Scotty99 said:


> Hey guys im ready to upgrade gpu's, what would be the cheapest 1080 with reference pcb?


This is the cheapest that I could find at $499


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## Scotty99

TwilightRavens said:


> This is the cheapest that I could find at $499


Thanks for the heads up, does anyone have a list of all the cards with reference boards? Lots and lots of 1080's on my local craigslist lol.


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## TwilightRavens

Is there a big temp difference from running the rad on a GPU as an intake vs exhaust, because I am currently running it as an exhaust on my 290X and the temps get in the upper 70’s. Mainly because I didn’t want to mess with my cases airflow. If I can expect a 10C drop then I will totally go for it.

Edit: I went for it and temps went from 78C to 66-69C, but CPU temps rose a tad.


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## Scotty99

So i never got to finding a 1080, does anyone have a list of 1080's or 1070 ti's that work with the g12? Id prefer one that can retain the gpu backplate, but not a necessity.


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## TwilightRavens

So I haven’t posted in this thread in a while but I’ve since upgraded from the 290X to an EVGA GTX 1080 Superclocked and was wondering if anyone knows if the G10 bracket fits a GTX 1080 reference PCB? Or would i need to go G12? Would really like to use the old bracket if possible because I don’t use the 290X anymore.


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## bigblueshock

Scotty99 said:


> So i never got to finding a 1080, does anyone have a list of 1080's or 1070 ti's that work with the g12? Id prefer one that can retain the gpu backplate, but not a necessity.





TwilightRavens said:


> So I haven’t posted in this thread in a while but I’ve since upgraded from the 290X to an EVGA GTX 1080 Superclocked and was wondering if anyone knows if the G10 bracket fits a GTX 1080 reference PCB? Or would i need to go G12? Would really like to use the old bracket if possible because I don’t use the 290X anymore.



Haven't checked here in a while, but in Sept 2018 I upgraded my MSI 980 Ti to a MSI 1080 Ti Duke OC. One reason I like the Duke (as well as the Gaming X is great) is because they have almost a full metal plate to cool VRM components as well. The duke also comes with a backplate.

My temps with the H90 are between 40 and 50C. I have two Corsair ML120 fans in push/pull config - rear of case. This is fan at it's lowest setting. 

Personally, I feel if the backplate does anything, it assists with more pressure bringing the cooler and the GPU together tighter. That's my 2 cents.


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## bigblueshock

On a side note, anyone have a rough guesstimate on what temp differences would be if upgrading from a 120MM closed loop to a 240 or even 280MM closed loop? I guess I'm curious. I don't want to drop $300-400 on a new case/cooler (due to my case limitations) only to get a 2-3c difference.


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## TwilightRavens

bigblueshock said:


> On a side note, anyone have a rough guesstimate on what temp differences would be if upgrading from a 120MM closed loop to a 240 or even 280MM closed loop? I guess I'm curious. I don't want to drop $300-400 on a new case/cooler (due to my case limitations) only to get a 2-3c difference.


It really depends on a lot of variables, does the rad that’s hooked up to your 1080 ti feel warm to the touch or cool after a while under load? If warm then yes you’ll notice a difference in temps due to that being the limit, if it does not feel warm then the solution lies within the contact to the cold plate, if its thermal paste then that might be what is holding back cooling performance, not saying you did a bad job on the paste or anything, that’s just how i’ve always been able to tell which is the limiting factor.

Edit- To clarify what I meant is if the limit is the coldplate to the aio or the contact between the die and aio, switching to a larger rad won’t make a difference if the current one isn’t dissipating as much as it is capable of. The easiest way would be to upgrade fans to higher cfm ones rated for static pressure, faster rpm doesn’t mean better for it. If that shows a temp drop larger than 1-2C then you’ll see a difference from going to a larger rad. I hope this was of some help.


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## laxu

So in case someone stumbles upon this thread searching for info, here's some tidbits on trying to mount the non-supported Corsair H115i Extreme. I bought one on a whim used and decided to see if I could fit it anyway.

It didn't work out. The problem is that despite having the round Asetek block/pump, it is wider than the supported ones. When you press it through it gets stuck. Even if you used pliers to force it, you would most likely never be able to get it out again. Apparently the G12 bracket can fit it though so I guess that is a bit wider.

Second problem is the pump top. While you can move it up by loosening the four screws around the base, you won't be able to fit in the screw tops for mounting the G10 on the GPU. You could assemble it in reverse and put the screw tops on the back plate side but in that case it would be better to replace the screws with something that doesn't have threads right at the start.

Final problem with this model is the way the tubes are on the pump. They stick right out of the top so for example if you use a second VRM fan on a PCIe bracket like I do on my 2080 Ti, fitting it might be a problem. 92mm fan might fit but 120 did not because the tubes are not very flexible so they are altogether annoying to get anywhere.

TL;DR: Don't try to mount a H115i or any other angular top Corsair AIO on the G10.


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## Scotty99

Hey G12 owners, do any of you know what would be a good model rx 570 or 580 to cool with this? I am building a secondary PC and id be dumb not to buy an ex mining card for the prices they are going for on ebay, especially that i have a g12 and 120 aio sitting around doing nothing. Id just prefer to get one that is a direct bolt on without any mods, id assume reference pcb is what im looking for? (if you have a list of reference pcb's for 570's/80's id really appreciate it, thx).


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## poah

msi gaming x or armour will be suitable. both have the same PCB just different coolers


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## Scotty99

poah said:


> msi gaming x or armour will be suitable. both have the same PCB just different coolers


Awesome gaming x is kind of the one i had an eye on since the mosfets and stuff would be right under the krakens fan, thx.


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## sprach

Hi everybody,
Just wanted to drop some questions:
1. Does the G12 work with the EVGA 2080 Super XC Ultra https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=8d461ce8-ff03-456a-a0bf-e71b6b4cd296 ? 
2. Does the card have the reference PCB? 
3. Should I use in such the AMD brackets for mounting the G12+AIO? 
4. Do the mounting brackets interfere with other components on the PCB?
5. Can I keep the stock front plate cooling the memory chips and VRMs when mounting the G12 onto the card's PCB? 

I read some conflicting reports and wanted to have some clarifications prior to attempting the install.

Thanks for the advice


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## poah

sprach said:


> Hi everybody,
> Just wanted to drop some questions:
> 1. Does the G12 work with the EVGA 2080 Super XC Ultra https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=8d461ce8-ff03-456a-a0bf-e71b6b4cd296 ?
> 2. Does the card have the reference PCB?
> 3. Should I use in such the AMD brackets for mounting the G12+AIO?
> 4. Do the mounting brackets interfere with other components on the PCB?
> 5. Can I keep the stock front plate cooling the memory chips and VRMs when mounting the G12 onto the card's PCB?
> 
> I read some conflicting reports and wanted to have some clarifications prior to attempting the install.
> 
> Thanks for the advice


Memory will get too hot.


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## sprach

poah said:


> Memory will get too hot.


Even if there's a 92mm Noctua fan directed towards the memory chips? 
I have all the parts from my previous build, including the G12 along with a compatible AIO, which I had already been using without any issue on my previous card (1080Ti).


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## poah

sprach said:


> Even if there's a 92mm Noctua fan directed towards the memory chips?
> I have all the parts from my previous build, including the G12 along with a compatible AIO, which I had already been using without any issue on my previous card (1080Ti).


yeah GDDR6 runs a lot hotter than GDDR5


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