# GIGABYTE Z77X Owners/Discussion/Information/Support Thread and Club (UD5H, UD3H, D3H, and ALL)



## Sin0822

Welcome guys since some of you already own boards or will very soon I figured I would start this club now.

Official GIGABYTE Z77X Owners Club!


Here is GIGABYTE's Z77 Microsite: MicroSite


Some Previews:
Z77X-UD5H Preview- by Me
Z77X-UD3H Unboxing by ZenEffect
Z77X-UD3H preview By turn and burn




Z77X-D3H Unboxing

Subzero OC Results:
6.6ghz SPI 1M with UD3H
6.5ghz SPI 32M with G1 Sniper 3
3000+MHz memory 16GB with 4DIMMs by coolalr
3000MHz with 2.8ghz stable 16Gb with 4 DIMMs by Me
Mad22 UD3H OC with 116BLCk and 2800mhz memory

Latest BIOS at Tweaktown forums

If you need help please post, i will update this thread a bit as launch gets closer. If you have questions or issues please post them here.


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## MountainDewMadOScar

That Sniper,
not in Aus yet :*(


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## King Who Dat

^^Soon to be a serious wealth of knowledge. Sin is the best. I will be getting my hands on one of these eventually. Looking forward to reading up.


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## jivenjune

I'll be in this soon. Waiting to sell my P67-UD7 and pick up the Z77X-UD5 Wifi model as soon as it's available.


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## stasio

Gigabyte Z77X-D3H power up last week.
*LLC work perfect !!* (very stable).








Very SOLID board.










Some UEFI BIOS pic:

http://i1.aijaa.com/b/00014/9950572.jpg
http://i10.aijaa.com/b/00676/9950592.jpg
http://i1.aijaa.com/b/00825/9950612.jpg
http://i6.aijaa.com/b/00116/9950629.jpg

Some UEFI 3D BIOS pic:

http://i5.aijaa.com/b/00836/9954034.jpg
http://i9.aijaa.com/b/00008/9954026.jpg
http://i6.aijaa.com/b/00406/9954031.jpg
http://i5.aijaa.com/b/00329/9954032.jpg
http://i8.aijaa.com/b/00097/9954033.jpg

Fast test with PI32 and AIDA64:


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## ChrisB17

quick question. Why do the boards have Ultra Durable 3 printed on the board instead of Ultra Durable 4 like advertised?


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## Sin0822

Ultra Durable 4 is Ultra Durable 3 lol, it just shows off more features they put in to reduce RMAs, which other manufacturers do not put in all those things.


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## Flikka

ChrisB17 can you perhaps give me the measurements of the Gigabyte card, as exact as possible please. I cant see how the card is 280mm as listed on the product page.


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## ChrisB17

The motherboard or my video card. Let me know. It shouldn't be a problem.


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## Sin0822

I think in some places they call a motherboard a card. I know the guys I know form AU call it that, it is weird i know.


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## Flikka

Sorry, to many open tabs, thought I was in the AMD 7800 club. Nah we call a graphics card a card and a motherboard a board here in South Africa. I need the measurements of the graphics card, the Windforce 3x cooler as far as I know is the same size across Gigabyte's AMD/Nvidia range and on the 680 the length is 270mm so 280mm for the 7870 is just ridiculous. Sorry this is a little off topic.


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## MrD1sturbed

Joining the club as my Z77X-UD5H WB will be here on Thursday. Really wanted the Sniper 3, but they're not out yet, and I needed a board for my new build now. I'll swap it out later once the Sniper finally releases.


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## ivymaxwell

Hey sin im debating between ud5h and d3h, i wont ever use more than one GPU but im concerned about the via audio the d3h has and for its ability to handle constant high overclocks 24/7. so the question is the via audio good? and can the d3h handle a 24/7 high overclock in the 4.6 to 4.8 range? will it last as long? im probably gonna get ud5h for the longer lasting parts(presumably by me)


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## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivymaxwell*
> 
> Hey sin im debating between ud5h and d3h, i wont ever use more than one GPU but im concerned about the via audio the d3h has and for its ability to handle constant high overclocks 24/7. so the question is the via audio good? and can the d3h handle a 24/7 high overclock in the 4.6 to 4.8 range? will it last as long? im probably gonna get ud5h for the longer lasting parts(presumably by me)


Sound is perfect,better then Realtek for sure.
I running 4.8 GHZ , 24/7 in ambient temperatures +33C without any problem.
As I also no need this additional "bits and pcs" D3H(X) is right choice.


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## Sin0822

BTW when you get your board I am sure you will use a 2600K or 2500K these boards work better with Ivy, just FYI it likes to hard reset everything you restart with Sandy. I reported it and it should get fixed soon. At least on the UD5H. Hard reset means it will shut down fully and start right back up, no issues. Except when you OC it might say OC fail and then show that you are currently running at your OC and then need you to enter BIOS and hit F10 lol, sandy sucks. lol Wierd thing is this doesn't happen with ivy.


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## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Ultra Durable 4 is Ultra Durable 3 lol, it just shows off more *features they put in to reduce RMAs, which other manufacturers do not put in all those things*.


Out of curiosity, what are said features?







I still haven't pulled the trigger on a new board yet, convince me to go with Gigabyte if you're bored







(I've had good experiences with their 880 series AMD boards and P45 series Intel boards in the past)


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## jivenjune

Just got my board


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## delow

Does Lucid Virtu really give a boost in frame rates like in this video?


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## dartuil

hello ,
is the boot loop issue fixed on z77?
want the z77x-d3h


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## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> Out of curiosity, what are said features?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still haven't pulled the trigger on a new board yet, convince me to go with Gigabyte if you're bored
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I've had good experiences with their 880 series AMD boards and P45 series Intel boards in the past)


Well the fiberglass in the PCB reduces humidity damage, in certain regions of the world where boards are sold there are a very high numbers of RMAs due to humidity, the fiberglass PCb is a bit more expensive but accounts for it.

2oz PCB also isn't something normally done. I know ROG boards do have this, but the rest of the mainstream asus lineup might not, it is expensive b/c of price of copper, but it also allows you to not heatsink some MOSFETs like on the UD3H.

The Anti-static (ESD) ICs are added onto the USB ports, as are one fuse per port (the fuses allow the high current output to charge the new ipad for instance(which requires 3x USB spec, and gigabyte provides this and proved it)) they also allow one port to go down and not all ports ont eh same fuse like MSI does , there actually are ICs placed so that they can protect components in case of a shock of you discharging into a USB device. Like if you were to plug in a device with a short in it into an MSI back panel, 4 of your USB ports would go down, but on a gigabyte board it would take out that single port and no more.

The Anti-surge IC is a small IC placed on the input from the 24-pin connector which will take a hit and allow operation if your PSu decides to crap out.

Those features weren't advertised in Ultra Durable 3 but are in Ultra Durable 4, ultra durable 4 however does include everyone of ultra durable 3, just called different things like high-temp protection is low-RDS ON MOSFETs for all switching power supplies, with the 2 OC copper, and the japanes caps, the power failure is dual BIOS and the anti-surge, just named different on the front end. .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune*
> 
> Just got my board


Very nice man!!!!!!! CONGRATS!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delow*
> 
> Does Lucid Virtu really give a boost in frame rates like in this video?


Yes it does.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> hello ,
> is the boot loop issue fixed on z77?
> want the z77x-d3h


Yes. It is fixed.


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## dartuil

the z77 d3h really want to be in my phantom


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## ChrisB17

Quick question and possibly a noob one. When I install my drivers etc, How to I go about getting LUCID MVP to work? Are there specific drivers I need to use from LUCID?


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## Sin0822

okay yea MVp wont install without first iGPU and dGPU drivers. BUT iGPU drivers wont install unless the iGPU is enabled.

Go into BIOS change the iGPU to enable, and change Init Display First to iGFX and then plug into the iGPU output, then go into windows and install the iGPU(Intel VGA) driver and then the MVp can be installed







.

I think iGPU is enabled but it turns itself off when a dGPU is detected unless you say iGFX should be displayed before PEG0 and then you need to plug into the iGPU. you can also just take out your GPu and install them, then put your GPU back in and install MVP. of course I just did it the way i said it first.


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## ChrisB17

I want to use my GPU (7870) to hook up to my monitor, So I will install both iGpu and AMD drivers then install MVP?

Is this the right MVP driver?

http://www.lucidlogix.com/driverdownloads-virtu.html


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## jivenjune

Hmmm... Has anyone been able to get Lucid MVP working with a Sandy Bridge processor? I haven't been able to, and I've been tweaking in the EUFI for awhile. I was able to get my monitor to display (not using DVI output -- still can't manage to get that to work for whatever reason), but Lucid MVP still comes up with an error. Intel drivers and Nvidia drivers are both installed, and the IGPU is enabled in EUFI.


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## Sin0822

I installed it with Sandy Bridge man, that is how i did my review lol.

When you try to install it do you have the monitor plugged into the iGPU?

I would download the drivers off the gigabyte site, that is what i used.


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## Sin0822

Listen tomorrow i will make a video of how i installed it b/c i feel like a lot of people are going to ask me how to do this.


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## ChrisB17

Awesome. Would be helpful.


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## coolhandluke41

NVM


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## jivenjune

Well, I got Virtu MVP to finally work. I had to do a complete reinstall since I screwed up my driver installation order.

I pretty much did it in the following order using the drivers on Gigabyte's motherboard website:

1. Windows 7 Installation (Pre-installed Intel Raid Drivers)
2. Intel Management Engine Interface
3. Intel INF Installation
4. Intel Rapid Storage Technology
5. Intel VGA Driver
5. Marvell Sata controller
6. Marvel Storage Utility (I don't think this one is necessary)
7. Intel LAN Driver
8. Atheros LAN Driver
9. Intel USB 3.0 Driver
10. Wireless Drivers
11. Nvidia Drivers (270.?? WQHL)

All of my display outputs are working properly now. I think LucidVirtu MVP has some issues with some more of the recent Nvidia drivers, so I took Sin's advice and rolled some older drivers to much success. I hope this helps anyone else.

Thanks again to Sin for the help and recommendation. This motherboard is awesome (Z77-UD5). Its boot time is significantly faster than its P67 counterparts I used.


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## Electroneng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune*
> 
> Well, I got Virtu MVP to finally work. I had to do a complete reinstall since I screwed up my driver installation order.
> I pretty much did it in the following order using the drivers on Gigabyte's motherboard website:
> 1. Windows 7 Installation (Pre-installed Intel Raid Drivers)
> 2. Intel Management Engine Interface
> 3. Intel INF Installation
> 4. Intel Rapid Storage Technology
> 5. Intel VGA Driver
> 5. Marvell Sata controller
> 6. Marvel Storage Utility (I don't think this one is necessary)
> 7. Intel LAN Driver
> 8. Atheros LAN Driver
> 9. Intel USB 3.0 Driver
> 10. Wireless Drivers
> 11. Nvidia Drivers (270.?? WQHL)
> All of my display outputs are working properly now. I think LucidVirtu MVP has some issues with some more of the recent Nvidia drivers, so I took Sin's advice and rolled some older drivers to much success. I hope this helps anyone else.
> Thanks again to Sin for the help and recommendation. This motherboard is awesome (Z77-UD5). Its boot time is significantly faster than its P67 counterparts I used.


Great Information! My Z77-UD5H comes in today! It will replace my P67A-UD4 board which will be delegated to my test bench.


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## Fortuneke

anyone know the digipower phase of GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-D3H (...+.. ) ?


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## Sin0822

digipowerphase, that isn't a real word and digi VRm is a fallacy. VRms are all analog, even when ASUS says digi+ VRm the VRM itself is analog, as power is analog. The PWM is digital, and the PWm is a single chip, so Digi+ refers to the PWM technology and VRm is just components.

ASUS Digi+ VRM= Digital PWM and Analog VRM.
GIGABYTE 3D Power= Digital PWM and Analog VRM.

The D3H has the same VRM as the UD3H, total of 9 phases, 6+2+1 just like most other boards in the price range, however the quality of the UD3H and D3h is very high.


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## Fortuneke

Thank you for clearing that up







+ rep !


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## psyside

ОH MY!!!!!!


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## drBlahMan

Hey *Sin0822*, I've just noticed that the *G1.Sniper M3* has a ATX 4-pin power connector. Do you think that will have negative effect with the OC capability for that mobo*?* Also is the correct power phase count 6+2+1*?*


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## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Hey *Sin0822*, I've just noticed that the *G1.Sniper M3* has a ATX 4-pin power connector. Do you think that will have negative effect with the OC capability for that mobo*?* Also is the correct power phase count 6+2+1*?*


My D3H same,running stable with 5GHz ,24/7









Btw,

New BIOS released:

G1.Sniper 3 - F4b
GA-Z77X-UD3H - F8a


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## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Hey *Sin0822*, I've just noticed that the *G1.Sniper M3* has a ATX 4-pin power connector. Do you think that will have negative effect with the OC capability for that mobo*?* Also is the correct power phase count 6+2+1*?*


ON air/water no, on subzero maybe I will test this myself, see if i need to solder some direct lines from the PSU or not. yes 6+2+1 like the UD3H, D3H, and a few other boards. it is more than enough power for LN2 OC, the only limit on the M3 might be the 4-pin, however if you are going to LN2 at that price UD3H would be a wonderful option. .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> My D3H same,running stable with 5GHz ,24/7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw,
> New BIOS released:
> G1.Sniper 3 - F4b
> GA-Z77X-UD3H - F8a


indeed. thanks stasio ill try them.


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## coolhandluke41

I'm "officially" in







,this board is build like a tank and probably weighs twice as much as my ex-P8P67 Pro, very nice GB ! (love => matte black finish)



Spoiler: can't wait to try IB ;)


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## Sin0822

nice pics man, yea if you turn the light down the board is darker hahahaha, the PCB is lovely. one part GB knows how to do really damn well.


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## ChrisB17

The PCB on the board is indeed sexy. I starred at it for like 2 mins. Also this board is sort of heavy compared to my last EVGA board.


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## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> The PCB on the board is indeed sexy. I starred at it for like 2 mins. Also this board is sort of heavy compared to my last EVGA board.


I think all that sexiness comes from MB makers ...(looks like all females in that plant ..lol )


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## Sin0822

yea the truth is GIGABYTE builds extremely high quality products, the 2oz PCB is no joke, and the heatsinks the new ones are very heavy and they cool very well.


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## treeman

Ordered a Z77-D3H yesterday for $109 from NCIX.

Just curious, will the mainstream D3H be able to maintain a decent overclock (4.6-4.8ghz) on a 2600K? Is the 4-pin CPU connector something to worry about?

Besides that I look forward to moving up to SB


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## Sin0822

hey its good actually, it will do fine, i just benched the M3 tonight and it could do wprime at over 6ghz easy that is 230W load.


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## jivenjune

Has anyone been able to update the UEFI to F5 or F6 while being able to maintain mouse functionality in EUFI while using a Sandy Bridge processor?


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## Sin0822

yea i did, i tried a bunch of mouses, from wireless to wired to even a trackball. lol They all seem to work fine.

Please give me the make and model of your mouse, I am guessing it is USB since there is no PS/2 on the board. THey will test it and fix it up for you









BTw did you try F6D yet?


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea i did, i tried a bunch of mouses, from wireless to wired to even a trackball. lol They all seem to work fine.
> Please give me the make and model of your mouse, I am guessing it is USB since there is no PS/2 on the board. THey will test it and fix it up for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTw did you try F6D yet?


Hey Sin, you're always a great help. Thanks again man. I'm using a Mionix Naos 3200, and yeah, I tried updating the BIOS to F6d, and I lost mouse functionality in the BIOS. This happened with the F5 version on Gigabyte's website too. I can move my mouse up and down but not left to right.

Also, for some reason, CPUZ doesn't seem to detect my voltages correctly when I overclock my CPU. I used EasyTune6 just to test it out, but my voltages are always indicated at like 1.046-1.056 (regardless of how much voltage I increase in the BIOS or what EasyTune6 sets it to). EasyTune currently indicates that the voltages is set to 1.3v or something in that area, but CPUZ says something different. I know the voltages are actually being increased too since if I lower it too much, I run into stability issues. Have you had any issue like this too, Sin?


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## Sin0822

yea it is reading your vtt voltage instead, try cpu-z 1.60 x32 it reads volts correctly on vcore.

CPU-Z doesn't like to update their software quick enough, and they seem to be stickers on updating gigabyte volts. I have a version that seems to read vcore fine. Easytune is good for volts, it will end up being more correct than cpu-z, but you have to set polling rate to 1s down from 3s for any accuracy. If you are OCing, then yea the vcore will be increased. You can always take a digital multimeter to it.

i reported your issue, BTW does your mouse work okay in previous BIOSes?


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea it is reading your vtt voltage instead, try cpu-z 1.60 x32 it reads volts correctly on vcore.
> CPU-Z doesn't like to update their software quick enough, and they seem to be stickers on updating gigabyte volts. I have a version that seems to read vcore fine. Easytune is good for volts, it will end up being more correct than cpu-z, but you have to set polling rate to 1s down from 3s for any accuracy. If you are OCing, then yea the vcore will be increased. You can always take a digital multimeter to it.
> i reported your issue, BTW does your mouse work okay in previous BIOSes?


Yeah, my mouse works perfectly fine in F4 (the BIOS it came with). It's really smooth and responsive in F4, and I really like the way Gigabyte setup the layout of their EUFI. I'm actually a huge fan of the 3D mode. It was surprisingly intuitive, and I think a lot of novices will find it to be very easy to use. I just wish that the 3D mode allowed users to completely utilize all overclock functions (some of them are only in the advanced mode which is understandable).

Thanks again for clarifying on CPUZ. I thought it was acting screwy. And yeah, EasyTune seems to work a lot better for reading what the voltage is at. Tomorrow, I plan to try a few other mice in the BIOS and see if I get any response. I'm hoping that it's just my Mionix Naos. Aside from a few small quirks that seem to be software related, I love this motherboard.


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## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Hey all, Im new to the gigabyte scene ( I usually run ASUS boards...) but figured I would give a UD5H a try. I don't know much about the boot loop problem, but it sure seams like im having that issue. I have a 10 hour stable prime 95 overclock on my 2600K, running 1.305 vcore in BIOS even though CPUz is reporting 1.044 -1.056 I believe it was for a 100x45 clock. Running Corsair XMS3 1600 at its stock 1600 at 1.5V, RAID 0 Samsung 830's and no video card. Im about to return this board because of this issue, but before I send it back, does anyone have any advice to try and fix it? When I "restart" windows 7, it works perfect every time. When I "shut down" about 50% of the time it enters a boot loop, eventually "self corrects" and gives me a boot error. Sometimes it loads fully into windows, which will result in no overclock, or it will take me to the BIOS and require me to save and exit to retain my overclock. Also, when the computer goes to sleep, upon wakeup my multiplier gets bumped down to 35 which I have confirmed with super pi. Im having to many issues for the price tag on this time... Any advice would be GREAT!

CPUz 1.6x32 doesn't work correctly* Trying easytune now.


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## {EAC} Shoot em UP

I got EasyTune working, which is reporting correct Vcore. I am now able to notice that I was having a HUGE Vdroop under load. 1.305 set in bios, about 1.29_ in windows at idle, under load I was dropping to around 1.24_ with the load line calibration on normal. I bumped that up to the highest setting, it help right at 1.302 in windows under load and idle. Set loadline at "Turbo" it it drops to about 1.28_. Could this have been been causing the issue? Im not sure what causes the bootloop problem, but I assume a bad overclock could cause it. Also, should I set loadline to the max setting in order to hold those volts stable? Or is a little drop off with the turbo mode desirable? Sorry for the somewhat noob question, I haven't been in the overclock game sine my i7 920 which has happily been at 182x21 since the day I got it. Im sure my overclock is stable now, as it was before at these same volts with a huge Vdroop, I will worry about bringing my volts down once I am sure this motherboard doesn't have any issues. Right now im just concerned with never seeing a boot loop again.


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> I got EasyTune working, which is reporting correct Vcore. I am now able to notice that I was having a HUGE Vdroop under load. 1.305 set in bios, about 1.29_ in windows at idle, under load I was dropping to around 1.24_ with the load line calibration on normal. I bumped that up to the highest setting, it help right at 1.302 in windows under load and idle. Set loadline at "Turbo" it it drops to about 1.28_. Could this have been been causing the issue? Im not sure what causes the bootloop problem, but I assume a bad overclock could cause it. Also, should I set loadline to the max setting in order to hold those volts stable? Or is a little drop off with the turbo mode desirable? Sorry for the somewhat noob question, I haven't been in the overclock game sine my i7 920 which has happily been at 182x21 since the day I got it. Im sure my overclock is stable now, as it was before at these same volts with a huge Vdroop, I will worry about bringing my volts down once I am sure this motherboard doesn't have any issues. Right now im just concerned with never seeing a boot loop again.


I'm not 100 percent sure since I haven't had the same issue as you in terms of what you're referring to as bootlooping, but there is a chance that you're potentially experiencing a failed overclock if your overclock settings get reset each time it happens.

Are you using the turbo feature and all of the energy saving options to overclock? If so, you should see your voltage and multiplier drop to like 1.6Ghz and a very low voltage under idle situations then jump to 4.5Ghz with about 1.3v (depending on your settings). I generally prefer this method since I don't have to run a consistent high level of voltage through my CPU when it's not in use. I generally use a very high load line calibration level when I do this to balance out the voltage levels when in idle and under load.

Also, from what I've read, many of the Z77 motherboards currently are somewhat finicky with current Sandy Bridge processors since the micro coding is apparently designed mainly for Ivy Bridge processors. Personally though, I haven't experienced any boot looping unless my BIOS settings are off, and I'm using the same motherboard.

Edit: With the adjusted load line calibration to increase your voltage, are you experiencing any boot looping?


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## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Like I said, im not entirely sure what the old boot loop issue was. I just know im having problems







. But what I meant by turbo mode was the load line calibration "turbo" setting I think there is like low, medium, high, turbo and extreme. Extreme held my volts EXACTLY what I had them set at in the BIOS under load and idle. Turbo mode allowed a slight drop under load. And as of now, I am using a 45 multiplier at all times, no C1E or speed step. I can say that since I have changed this setting I havn't had an issue, but It has only been about 30 minutes, not long enough to tell at all. What BIOS settings should I have set under 3D power? Right now I have PWM phase control at high performance, and Vcore Loadline Calibration at Turbo (might put this to extreme just to hold the volts perfectly stable.) with everything else on auto. (Also, the Vcore Protection and DDR CH(A/B) Voltage Protection are at 250.00 mV by default, is this what I want?). In Advanced CPU core features, I have my 45 multi, trubo boost disabled, C1E disabled, C3/C6 disabled (is C3/C6 just a new C1E? I havn't dealt with this before on my i7 920 as far as I remember). And I have CPU EIST Function Disabled. Everything else should be stock except for like RAID instead of AHCI and things like that.


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## magictoaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i reported your issue, BTW does your mouse work okay in previous BIOSes?


Hi Sin!
Can you also report the same issue with the Steelseries Sensei (FW 244). The mouse was working perfectly with the Z77X-UD5H BIOS F4, but it's only moving up/down with BIOS F5 and BIOS F6d.
Thanks!


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## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune*
> 
> Edit: With the adjusted load line calibration to increase your voltage, are you experiencing any boot looping?


So far I have not experienced the problem. So far this makes me believe the problem, although maybe not 100% fixed, has been helped. A few more hours without the issue and I will be comfortable saying it is fixed. I am still haveing the sleep issue, when returning from sleep mode in windows 7 it drops the multiplier to 35 but retains my manual Vcore settings. Not sure what this is about. Might have something to do with the BIOS settings I listed ^^?


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> So far I have not experienced the problem. So far this makes me believe the problem, although maybe not 100% fixed, has been helped. A few more hours without the issue and I will be comfortable saying it is fixed. I am still haveing the sleep issue, when returning from sleep mode in windows 7 it drops the multiplier to 35 but retains my manual Vcore settings. Not sure what this is about. Might have something to do with the BIOS settings I listed ^^?


Possibly. I haven't had much time to play with my motherboard lately, so you'll probably wanna wait for Sin to chime in.


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## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> So far I have not experienced the problem. So far this makes me believe the problem, although maybe not 100% fixed, has been helped. A few more hours without the issue and I will be comfortable saying it is fixed. I am still haveing the sleep issue, when returning from sleep mode in windows 7 it drops the multiplier to 35 but retains my manual Vcore settings. Not sure what this is about. Might have something to do with the BIOS settings I listed ^^?


Just turned on my computer again, and the problem happened again. The power goes on and off a few times, ended up on a screen that said EUFI BIOS or something across the top, the rest of the screen was just black, power went off after that and when it turned back on it booted into windows with my 4.5 ghz overclock working perfectly. WHAT IS HAPPENING? My main issue with this is this computer is for my dad, he is getting into very large image photoshoping and wanted a powerful system, and obviously reliability and ease of use is a must for him. If this was my build, except for the sleep issue I wouldn't really mind much... Hopefully someone knows whats happening to my board. Also, I believe I am using the "second" BIOS as I set the first BIOS to all defaults in case there is ever an issue my dad will be able to switch to standard BIOS and at least have a working system until I can fit it. I don't think this could be causing an issue, but maybe someone knows better than me and would advise against this? Both BIOS are updated to F5 which is the newest I see on Bibabytes webpage.


----------



## Sin0822

yes the boot loop here is not the same it isn't an infinite boot loop. if you allow it to cycle it will eventually act like nothing happened, your POST code should read 8_ then the board should turn off turn back on and then act like its going into the BIOS, then it will do db on the POST code, and then it will restart and either do the 8_ and db or it will boot with your OC without issues. It happens every certain amount of boots and it is different per board, however it only happens with Sandy Bridge. The loop happens every 6 to 8 on/off cycles, and exact at the number, so after 7 cycles if it happened to you then after 7 more it will happen again. I think it has something to do with clearing the checksum. However it doesn't hurt anything, it doesn't erase your settings, and you really don't have to do anything it just is annoying b/c it takes an extra 10-30seconds every 6 to 8th boot. If it makes you feel better with ivy(retail stepping) i restarted the UD3H 100 times, the UD5h 100 times, and M3 100 times with an OC and there was nothing like this lol.

So here is the deal, it is a known issue that can be reproduced, that wasn't the case with the Z68 boot loop, it was random board to board configuration to configuration, but this one is totally with Sandy bridge only and not ivy Bridge. This means that it is much simpler to fix, it could just be an error in the coding or a part of the microcode that needs sandy bridge steppings added. The thing is beta testers, me included, didn't test sandy bridge, as we were trying to figure out all the Ivy Bridge issues first as the boards weren't supposed to release way before.

So here is what i recommend you doing:
Flash your BIOS, and reboot and "load optimized defaults" and reboot, this is something you should always do before you OC and after your flash your BIOS.
If you have a UD5H, UD3H, or Sniper 3 flash your backup BIOS to the same as your main, this was one thing that helped with Z68 boot loops, but it doesn't make a difference now, however it is easier for the ME to do things and your POST should be faster if they are the same as well. if you have a M3, or other boards without the switch, pressing ATL+F10 will flash your backup BIOS.

Here is the good news:
If you wont ever put a sandy bridge processor in your motherboard, then you are fine, you wont have this issue.
If you are upgrading to ivy bridge you only have 1 week left
If you are stick with sandy bridge, the issue is easy to replicate, and since i reported it there have been no more BIOS updates, so hopefully the next one, which is due very soon will have a fix for it, if not then perhaps the next final BIOS which shoudl also be soon, as the rate at which the BIOSes are being updates is extremely fast.


----------



## ChrisB17

Hmmmm After flashing to F5 Bios my mouse in bios is all screwy. Good other then that. Awesome board.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Here is TweakIt Blue-ROG 1.01.6 (Blue for for GB owners







) it should work on Z77
Thanks to Stasio
http://www.mediafire.com/?5jbg2ybpbro58jb



@Sin, this way right ?
Quote:


> ..boot with your OC without issues. It happens every certain amount of boots and it is different per board, however it only happens with ivy Bridge (Sandy Bridge). The loop happens every 6 to 8 on/off cycles,..


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Ok, at least it is a "known" issue. Now my only problem is the fact that when i come out of sleep mode, my overclock is all wrong. The multiplier drops down to 35 instead of my BIOS set 45. Also, I have no idea if this is at all related, but in windows it only shows my CPU speed of 3.4 GHz. I really don't care what windows thinks the speed is, just wondering if this could be at all related to the problem?

Thanks Sin, looks like you really know your stuff!

I just tested, looks like on my 3rd restart it happened, and the second time I tested it happened on my 5th restart, not 6-8. The Screen read Gigabyte-UEFI DualBios across the top. My overclock is confirmed still working properly after both times. Is there possibly a beta BIOS out there to try in hopes it would fix this? Or just wait for a new BIOS to be officially released? Also still worried about the Sleep issue.


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Hmmmm After flashing to F5 Bios my mouse in bios is all screwy. Good other then that. Awesome board.


Yeah, this seems to be an known issue. I was reading the Tweaktown Gigabyte BIOS forums, and a few people have reported that their mouse has begun to act screwy (only able to move up and down) with the new F5 and F6d BIOS. Strangely, the reported issues of this seem to be coming from various gaming mice.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Here is TweakIt Blue-ROG 1.01.6 (Blue for for GB owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) it should work on Z77
> Thanks to Stasio
> http://www.mediafire.com/?5jbg2ybpbro58jb
> 
> @Sin, this way right ?


yea haha thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Ok, at least it is a "known" issue. Now my only problem is the fact that when i come out of sleep mode, my overclock is all wrong. The multiplier drops down to 35 instead of my BIOS set 45. Also, I have no idea if this is at all related, but in windows it only shows my CPU speed of 3.4 GHz. I really don't care what windows thinks the speed is, just wondering if this could be at all related to the problem?
> Thanks Sin, looks like you really know your stuff!
> I just tested, looks like on my 3rd restart it happened, and the second time I tested it happened on my 5th restart, not 6-8. The Screen read Gigabyte-UEFI DualBios across the top. My overclock is confirmed still working properly after both times. Is there possibly a beta BIOS out there to try in hopes it would fix this? Or just wait for a new BIOS to be officially released? Also still worried about the Sleep issue.


Which board do you have? F6D is the beta, and the one that i first saw it in or for that fact anyone really reported this with, so the next beta would be the one after this issue is reported.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea haha thanks.
> Which board do you have? F6D is the beta, and the one that i first saw it in or for that fact anyone really reported this with, so the next beta would be the one after this issue is reported.


I have the Z77X-UD5H. Im running F5 BIOS.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

So will i benefit at all going from my Z68X-UD4 to UD5H? I cant get my 2500K to boot @ 5Ghz with this MB and not be best clocker. Is it work it spend $200? Also is there a reason UD5 is so much cheaper then any descent ASUS MB? PRO is like $50 more expensive and Deluxe is $120 more?


----------



## Sin0822

Okay guys, wait for a BIOS update within the next 24-48 hours







Especially you "shoot em up:"


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Okay guys, wait for a BIOS update within the next 24-48 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially you "shoot em up:"


THANKS! Also, where do I download the new BIOS? I don't even know where beta BIOS is downloaded from, I can't seem to find it. And also, will this BIOS be an official release or a beta, and should it help my return from sleep issue? Sleep is such an integral part of Windows 7...


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> THANKS! Also, where do I download the new BIOS? I don't even know where beta BIOS is downloaded from, I can't seem to find it. And also, will this BIOS be an official release or a beta, and should it help my return from sleep issue? Sleep is such an integral part of Windows 7...


Try here:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

or here:

http://hwbot.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42040


----------



## valvehead

Picked up a UD5H last Thursday:



This setup will replace my old P4 home server. It's on all the time, so I might as well upgrade it and assign it to 24/7 folding duty. The final swap is going to take some work, so I may not have my rig list up to date for a while.

I like the new BIOS, though I have since dropped into the familiar advanced mode. It's going to take some getting used to the new digital VRM settings; the only thing I have tweaked in there so far was the Vcore LLC setting.

I can't tell you how happy I am that we can finally use DVID with multiple LLC settings!







On my P67A-UD7 I stuck with F3h just for that reason (there are only two LLC levels, but it's better than being stuck with a fixed Vcore).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> THANKS! Also, where do I download the new BIOS? I don't even know where beta BIOS is downloaded from, I can't seem to find it. And also, will this BIOS be an official release or a beta, and should it help my return from sleep issue? Sleep is such an integral part of Windows 7...


The latest official BIOS is on Gigabyte's site.

The latest beta BIOS can be found on Tweaktown.

With F6d I could only run my RAM above 1333. I could set it higher, but it had no effect. I'm back on F5 for now.

Only two minor problems so far:

One occurs when rebooting. It will sometimes give me a message that the OC has failed (even if it's at stock). I haven't found any stability problems in any other situations; it only happens when rebooting. I haven't been able to reproduce the problem with any consistency, so it appears to be some sort of random fluke.
The other is that setting the individual turbo multipliers to anything other than auto causes turbo to be disabled (i.e. the multiplier won't go above x34 even under load). Base multiplier overclocking works just fine. Weird.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Sound is perfect,better then Realtek for sure.
> I running 4.8 GHZ , 24/7 in ambient temperatures +33C without any problem.
> As I also no need this additional "bits and pcs" D3H(X) is right choice.


Wait, so you're saying the VIA sound chip on the D3H is better than the Realtek chip on the UD5H???

EDIT: And I haven't ordered my UD5H yet. After seeing all the issues in this thread should i wait for a new revision before I pull the trigger. Also, when is the sniper 3 expected to become available?


----------



## Sin0822

no the next few BIOSes will take care of everything.

The BIOS isn't out yet, you can't download it yet, stasio will most likely post it here.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Wait, so you're saying the VIA sound chip on the D3H is better than the Realtek chip on the UD5H???


I compare my old P67A-UD7 and new Z77X-D3H (at least for me).








Btw,
for UD5H users here is latest CPU-Z 1.60.1 Beta:
http://www.cpuid.com/medias/files/softwares/betas/cpuz_160_04.zip

also posted yesterday here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/138137/cpu-z/170


----------



## Sin0822

BTW


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> I compare my old P67A-UD7 and new Z77X-D3H (at least for me).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw,
> for UD5H users here is latest CPU-Z 1.60.1 Beta:
> http://www.cpuid.com/medias/files/softwares/betas/cpuz_160_04.zip
> also posted yesterday here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/138137/cpu-z/170


Thanks, Stasio. This version of CPUZ seems to be detecting the correct voltages.


----------



## Sin0822

also this i just did too:


----------



## grambo

Hey guys,

I was reading Sin0822's awesome review of the Z77X-UD5H in this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1240618/z77x-ud5h-performance-review-sandy-benchmarks-with-mvp-analysis-bios-walk-through

I'm contemplating this board or the Asus P8Z77-V Pro for an Ivy Bridge build. One thing that is important to me is being able to control case/CPU fans via fan headers on the mobo. I already bought a Corsair 550D which has 3x 3-pin case fans and a Noctua NH-D14 which also has 3-pin fan connectors (99% sure on the Noctua, need to take a look tomorrow to verify). According to Sin0822
Quote:


> Fan control for all fans is there, you can pick whether you are using a 3-pin or 4-pin (voltage or PWM) mode, and you can set CPU SMART fan speed separate from that of the other system fans. It isn't done individually per connector, which some still want, but this way is a bit easier.


Does this mean that for this board you choose PWM or voltage for all the connectors at once?

Can you set individual temperature/fan speed profiles by fan header in the BIOS or Windows program? I want the fan speeds to ramp up based on temperature (CPU temp for CPU fans and case/motherboard temperature for case fans). Is it possible with the UD5H?

Thanks


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> no the next few BIOSes will take care of everything.
> The BIOS isn't out yet, you can't download it yet, stasio will most likely post it here.


New Z77 BIOS' will be on TT forum in 30 minutes time.


----------



## Electroneng

I just got my UD5H up and running with a 2500k and all I can say is Wow. Was able to drop my Vcore down .015v to achieve a similar overclock as my previous P67A-UD4 board.

Boot-ups are very, very fast. Running my ram at 2134mhz is a non-issue!

I have tried to replicate some of the issues people are seeing here and have not been successful.

Cold boots, resets, all work with no error messages and no reduction in overclock. Still on F4 bios and will remain with it until issues arise.

The only thing that I noticed is when a BSOD occurs, (I forced an occurance), The board does give an overclocked failed message upon reboot. I always set my system to never restart automatically.


----------



## arrow0309

*Core i7-3770K Cracks 6.616 GHz Utilizing 63.0x Multiplier*









http://www.techpowerup.com/164382/Core-i7-3770K-Cracks-6.616-GHz-Utilizing-63.0x-Multiplier.html


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> New Z77 BIOS' will be on TT forum in 30 minutes time.


Just woke up and am going to try F6g


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Just woke up and am going to try F6g


Tested Sleep mode, that doesn't work. It fails differently now though. It came out of sleep with a x16 multi, under stress it bumped up to 3.4GHz. Before it put my OC to a 35 multi and held it. I will get home later and test if the boot issues are fixed.
Thanks for all the help guys!


----------



## Sin0822

this might not be the fixing BIOS, or it might be. i was told fixes SB OC issues.

Sleep with SB and OC still doesn't work, but with ivy I am pretty sure it works, however that isn't on the top of the list.


----------



## Sin0822

this isn't the fixing BIOS, so don't flash to it if you don't need too. I will let you know when the quasi boot loop/boot failure BIOS is released, i think it is probably going through validation now. However the issue will be fixed soon, i know this for a fact, hopefully new BIOSes will release tomorrow or the next day.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> this isn't the fixing BIOS, so don't flash to it if you don't need too. I will let you know when the quasi boot loop/boot failure BIOS is released, i think it is probably going through validation now. However the issue will be fixed soon, i know this for a fact, hopefully new BIOSes will release tomorrow or the next day.


Thanks! Glad to know they are working on the issues, and thanks for keeping us updated on the situation. Also, glad to report the CPUz posted yesterday works perfectly with my UD5H


----------



## ChrisB17

Weird issue installing Win 7 X64. When Win 7 (normal) reboots (like 2-3 times during a install) The board doesn't like that and comes up boot failure detected.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> \
> I have tried to replicate some of the issues people are seeing here and have not been successful.
> Cold boots, resets, all work with no error messages and no reduction in overclock. Still on F4 bios and will remain with it until issues arise.
> The only thing that I noticed is when a BSOD occurs, (I forced an occurance), The board does give an overclocked failed message upon reboot. I always set my system to never restart automatically.


You don't have a problem when you return from sleep mode? I am now convinced the "problems" i was having with cold booting is a known issue which isn't causing any real world problems, just a pain. But my problem with sleep mode is an actual problem which really annoys me. You don't have an issue with your overclock changing on its own when you return from sleep mode?


----------



## magictoaster

I got a reply from Gigabyte support concerning the mouse not working properly in the BIOS.

Sadly, it looks like they did not understand the issue: "_The bios should not effect the mouse, any overclocking being applied? If so if you restore it back to factory default spec does it exhibit the same results?_". I've updated the issue...

Hopefully this will get resolved at some point.


----------



## ChrisB17

My rig failed IBT with my ram @ 1866. I am using 4x4g in all the dimm slots. Any way I can get these stable? I am using XMP profile atm.


----------



## Sin0822

okay first off, chrisB17 like iw rote earlier if you restart either by button or by software two times in a row(opposed to total shut down and turn on) then there will be a boot failure with sandy bridge where you will still be running at your OC speed however you need to go back into the BIOS "hit enter BIOS option" under boot failure menu, and just hit F10.. However when they release the fixing BIOS, this 2x restart issue as well as the quasi boot loop which actually just recovers itself perfectly, will both be solved at once. I know. Those two as well as mouse are the biggest issues.

The sleep issue has to do with CPU PLL overvoltage and sandy bridge, now on these boards you see there is no cpu pll overvoltage option, that is because they have it so that it automatically engages at ratios of 40x and higher, or it might be 42x. I will see if they can make it available so that users like you who want to sleep can use it.

The mouse issue however has been reported, if you tell me what mouse you have i will report it. however it seems like a lot of gaming mice lost some type of support in the BIOS they will work on this.

Lol that tech report guys answer is funny, but he is right, you have no idea what people do. Just tell him you are at factory defaults if you are.


----------



## ChrisB17

Any suggestions how I can get 16gb of ddr3-1866 stable on this board? I am using XMP profile but it isnt stable running stability tests.

I think upping VCCIO voltage a bit might help? I dont see it tho in bios.


----------



## Sin0822

yes perhaps, i got ddr3 2133 stable in 16gb 4 DIMMs, i bumped VCCIo to 1.1 and VCCSA to 1.095 You have to set these two 0.005mv difference as they are tied together on the board.


----------



## coolhandluke41

loosen up timings , raise VCCIO (1.15v should be enough) /DDR voltage ,test with Hyper PI


----------



## ChrisB17

I dont see them in the bios at all.


----------



## Sin0822

VCCIO is QPI/VTT voltage and VCCSA is IMC voltage.

DDR Voltage is under DRAm voltage menu


----------



## ChrisB17

Ok I will go check those out. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Electroneng

I have not tried sleep mode since I never run it on any systems!


----------



## dinos22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Any suggestions how I can get 16gb of ddr3-1866 stable on this board? I am using XMP profile but it isnt stable running stability tests.
> I think upping VCCIO voltage a bit might help? I dont see it tho in bios.


are those sticks rated for Z77?

Try bumping vdimm mate, select XMP and manually select primary timings.

second thing you can do is manually select second set of secondary timings

try auto TREFI and TREF IX9 (alternatively try 10540, 89)

from TRRDR
...
to TRWSR

set them to 8

last 2 max value is 7 iirc so set that


----------



## dinos22

dont forget to update to latest bios before you do anything

ALT+F10 during startup will also update your main bios to backup bios or you can just hit a bios switch to boot off the second bios

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

[edit] sorry forum noob, donno where the post edit button is!


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dinos22*
> 
> dont forget to update to latest bios before you do anything
> ALT+F10 during startup will also update your main bios to backup bios or you can just hit a bios switch to boot off the second bios
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html
> [edit] sorry forum noob, donno where the post edit button is!


haha Thanks dinos22







we appreciate your input
P.S. pen on the left =edit


----------



## ChrisB17

Raised vccio to 1.100and IMC to 1.095 and it still fails ibt on pass 2. CPU is at 100% stock settings btw.


----------



## cerebrix

after having a less than spectacular performance with my last cpu on this board, if anyone wants to step by step me through an oc, id really appreciate it. I was getting some crazy high temps from my last cpu.


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> after having a less than spectacular performance with my last cpu on this board, if anyone wants to step by step me through an oc, id really appreciate it. I was getting some crazy high temps from my last cpu.


Are you using Gigabyte's overclocking software to monitor your voltage or the updated CPUZ linked in this thread? The current official CPUZ lists incorrect voltages (always staying between like 1.048-1.053 regardless of what it's set to in the BIOS), so your voltages might be much higher than you actually think they're set at.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune*
> 
> Are you using Gigabyte's overclocking software to monitor your voltage or the updated CPUZ linked in this thread? The current official CPUZ lists incorrect voltages (always staying between like 1.048-1.053 regardless of what it's set to in the BIOS), so your voltages might be much higher than you actually think they're set at.


post #73


----------



## dinos22

sheesh stasio you are everywhere man


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dinos22*
> 
> sheesh stasio you are everywhere man











My Z77 just flying thru internet.








Just installed Nvidia GeForce 301.32 Beta.


----------



## ChrisB17

Ok I raised my dram voltage to 1.55 volts and its running the stress test longer before being unstable. Failed on run 7 of 10 on IBT. Any suggestions?


----------



## Sin0822

is your memory rated for 1.65v? what memory it is? ahh ballistics....


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Just need someones quick opinion, I have my 2600K at 4.5 ghz, and it has been prime stable for about 14 hours now at 1.260 volts, isn't this pretty low for a 4.5 OC? I know a lot of forums say start at about 1.35 and back it off till you see stability problems, im just wondering if 1.26 is really stable as its so much lower than 1.35 for example.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> is your memory rated for 1.65v? what memory it is? ahh ballistics....


It's rated for 1.5. Still aren't stable. I don't know what else to do tbh.


----------



## Clockster

Quick question

I'll be booting up my new Rig on the weekend for the 1st time xD
Seeing as we're still waiting for Ivy, I'll be running a 2600K in the Z77X UD5H, any issues I should know about?
Another question would be about my ram, I have quite a few kits laying around but I would ideally like to run my Patriot viper Extreme 1866 kit. Any issues with those or will they be fine?

Any info/help will be much appreciated, also thanx for this thread...been a good read


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockster*
> 
> Quick question
> I'll be booting up my new Rig on the weekend for the 1st time xD
> Seeing as we're still waiting for Ivy, I'll be running a 2600K in the Z77X UD5H, any issues I should know about?
> Another question would be about my ram, I have quite a few kits laying around but I would ideally like to run my Patriot viper Extreme 1866 kit. Any issues with those or will they be fine?
> Any info/help will be much appreciated, also thanx for this thread...been a good read


As of the current BIOS (F6g) with a Sandy, sleep in windows wont work if your overclocking, and besides that, just the "quasi boot loop" issue as Sin calls it. I personally don't have 1866 RAM to test, but my Corsair 1600 works perfect. These two issues are all I know about, and all I have experienced. Also, some people have reported issued of gaming mice not working in the 3D BIOS, although I have not had this problem. Right now im using an old Logitech MX518 gaming mouse just fine.


----------



## ChrisB17

I cant get my ddr3-1866 ram stable at all. Thats the only issue I am having besides the mouse not working.


----------



## Sin0822

can you give me exact mode number of the modules, perhaps GIGABYTE can try to reproduce the issue.


----------



## ChrisB17

Super annoying. I just want to get this stable. I'm not even freaking overclocking lol.

Crucial BLT2KIT2G3D1869DT1TX0

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148559


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> I cant get my ddr3-1866 ram stable at all. Thats the only issue I am having besides the mouse not working.


I was able to get mine stable using the correct subtimings. So far, I have my memory slightly overclocked. I have some G. Skill Ecos at 1866 at 8, 9, 9, 24 at 1.5v. You might want to try to figure what the stock subtimings are on your memory and manually adjust it.


----------



## ChrisB17

I have no idea where to even begin looking for those.


----------



## ChrisB17

*Edit* damn dbl post

And its not freezing or anything, IBT is just coming up "Sorry your system is found to be unstable" etc...


----------



## Sin0822

can you test the memory at stock with memtest 86+


----------



## Clockster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> As of the current BIOS (F6g) with a Sandy, sleep in windows wont work if your overclocking, and besides that, just the "quasi boot loop" issue as Sin calls it. I personally don't have 1866 RAM to test, but my Corsair 1600 works perfect. These two issues are all I know about, and all I have experienced. Also, some people have reported issued of gaming mice not working in the 3D BIOS, although I have not had this problem. Right now im using an old Logitech MX518 gaming mouse just fine.


Thanx for the reply, Was reading about you're mouse issue.
Mmmm Maybe I should just leave as is till I can get my hands on a Ivy..I am not one to stuff around with the Bios ect xD
23 April is supposed to be launch date..but I probably won't be able to get one in SA for another 2 weeks after launch...


----------



## martianaphid

Hey, So Sin0288 sent me here (just watched your M3 video, very cool) and mentioned that a user called stasio might have a Z77MX-D3H or if anyone else has this board and would like to make some comments on their impression of it. I'm trying to decide which mATX Z77 board to get and atm I'm looking between the Z77-MX-D3H and the Asus P8Z77-M Pro. There's not much to seperate the two, I think the Asus has a couple extra USB3 and esata and 8pin atx power but the Gigabyte has the dualBIOS and Sin mentioned that Gigabyte users are saying the VIA VT2021 provides good audio and should I opt for dual GPUs then the onboard audio is going to be a big consideration. I should mention the board will be for IB and I will be OCing on air but nothing crazy.


----------



## Sin0822

your memory kit should be fine, just load XMP profile increase the VDIMM a small amount..

not everyone should have a mouse issue, but I am also told it is being handled too.


----------



## fasty

Just thought I'd register, say "hello" and thanks for the useful thread.
Very simple system here, updated to BIOS F5.
I had to reinstall Win7 several times for various reasons but now it's on UEFI type install.
Points maybe worth noting :
- I've rebooted hundreds of times already but never seen any evidence of boot loop type issues so far.
- Mouse is fully functional in BIOS but left button not very responsive, sometimes seems to need multiple clicks.
- Sleep seems OK (not tested while overclocked though)
- Seems to overclock better than my previous Gigabyte Z68MX-UD2H-B3 using same processor.

Extremely pleased with this motherboard so far!

- Steve


----------



## Sin0822

do you have a 2500K or 2600K?


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> do you have a 2500K or 2600K?


2500K here
I entered basic rig information when I registered but it doesn't seem to show on my post - Must be being a bit dumb here...


----------



## Sin0822

yea it seems that with 2500k there is no issue.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> 2500K here
> I entered basic rig information when I registered but it doesn't seem to show on my post - Must be being a bit dumb here...


Welcome to OCN!

Go to your profile page and click on "Edit signature text" below your signature. You will then see a drop box where you can add your rig below the sig.


----------



## fasty

OK. Incidentally, I'm extremely impressed with the audio from this board.
I'm using it to listen to FLAC files. Somehow sounds much better than my Gigabyte Z68 board when piped through my HiFi or headphones.


----------



## Sin0822

FLAC is awesome IMO, too bad not more MP3 players support it.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> Go to your profile page and click on "Edit signature text" below your signature. You will then see a drop box where you can add your rig below the sig.


Thanks, I should have looked there. Excuse me being a total newbie! Should be OK now. I've only put the basic rig info for now.

Dunno why the audio is so much better but the bass and treble both seem superior, I was blown away by the clarity.


----------



## cerebrix

so since ive decided i dont know enough about oc'ing this board i decided to give auto tune a spin.

works about as well as it does with singers in music

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2337698


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> Thanks, I should have looked there. Excuse me being a total newbie! Should be OK now. I've only put the basic rig info for now.
> Dunno why the audio is so much better but the bass and treble both seem superior, I was blown away by the clarity.


This is great to hear. I've put a lot of thought into whether to get this or wait for the G1 Sniper 3 and one of the main reasons was audio. That said, the sniper 3 is considerably more expensive and I'm just not sure the Creative Core3d audio chip is worth the extra money. I think I'll save myself the extra loot and go with the UD5H. It seems to me that they both use the same power regulations so the UD5H should overclock just as well.

I'm really hoping these minor issues get worked out quickly though. I don't really want to deal with any issues such as overclock settings being erased after a crash. Honestly I'll probably end up ordering it tomorrow.


----------



## ivymaxwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> so since ive decided i dont know enough about oc'ing this board i decided to give auto tune a spin.
> works about as well as it does with singers in music
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2337698


what the? something is wrong with the software


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> so since ive decided i dont know enough about oc'ing this board i decided to give auto tune a spin.
> works about as well as it does with singers in music
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2337698


Im not sure what type of OC your trying to get out of it, but even on stock cooling im pretty sure you can easily get to 4 ghz by following online guides. These 1155's are very easy to overclock. But I suppose if your not very familiar with BIOS, that could be a problem.
Sin does a pretty damn good job of providing BIOS screenshots of everything in order to make it all clear.
Just make sure you use the right RAM multiplier for your setup (looks like your running 1333? so a 13x) and use less volts if you only want say a 4 ghz OC.
I have to say, i didn't know anything about this board until I read reviews online. I havn't overclocked anything since summer of 09... but with some guides, these boards are super easy to use.

http://sinhardware.com/index.php/reviews/motherboards/117-gigabyte/lga1155-z77/z77x-ud5h/109-z77x-ud5h-review?showall=&start=1


----------



## cerebrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> so since ive decided i dont know enough about oc'ing this board i decided to give auto tune a spin.
> works about as well as it does with singers in music
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2337698
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure what type of OC your trying to get out of it, but even on stock cooling im pretty sure you can easily get to 4 ghz by following online guides. These 1155's are very easy to overclock. But I suppose if your not very familiar with BIOS, that could be a problem.
> Sin does a pretty damn good job of providing BIOS screenshots of everything in order to make it all clear.
> Just make sure you use the right RAM multiplier for your setup (looks like your running 1333? so a 13x) and use less volts if you only want say a 4 ghz OC.
> I have to say, i didn't know anything about this board until I read reviews online. I havn't overclocked anything since summer of 09... but with some guides, these boards are super easy to use.
> 
> http://sinhardware.com/index.php/reviews/motherboards/117-gigabyte/lga1155-z77/z77x-ud5h/109-z77x-ud5h-review?showall=&start=1
Click to expand...

im running 1600

power is my big problem, i have no effing clue what i should be setting my power settings, pll, all that stuff to.

im hoping someone might want to mentor me on this board. maybe its because i have strep right now. i dunno, but im not understanding all these damned power settings at all. let alone what they should be set to for a 2500k


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> im running 1600
> power is my big problem, i have no effing clue what i should be setting my power settings, pll, all that stuff to.
> im hoping someone might want to mentor me on this board. maybe its because i have strep right now. i dunno, but im not understanding all these damned power settings at all. let alone what they should be set to for a 2500k


With 1600 RAM, set your RAM multi to 16, and as far as power settings go, like which? I don't have a huge amount of experience, but I was able to get my 2600k to 4.5 easily, much easier than I expected in fact. but for the power settings, like the things under the 3D power control section?

Also, what GHz are you looking for? I can try and tell u what settings would work per a certain GHz.


----------



## ChrisB17

Yet again. Cant pass the whole test.


----------



## cerebrix

i was hoping for at least 4.5, hell with my cooling and setup i had it in my head 4.8-5 would have been possible but i dunno now.

what stock temps also should i be shooting for under load for daily use?

take a look at my rig


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Yet again. Cant pass the whole test.


I really don't know all that much about RAM and stuff, but I have used IBT on a 100% stable PC and have had it fail. My current i7 920 fails with IBT under certain settings, but passes prime 95 for days without a problem, and has bluescreen on me one or twice since summer of 09, and this is my main computer, I use it for hours every day. So, I would almost say, try testing with something else?


----------



## ivymaxwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yet again. Cant pass the whole test.


Put in your old motherboard and run the test. and if it pass then i would return the ud5h.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> i was hoping for at least 4.5, hell with my cooling and setup i had it in my head 4.8-5 would have been possible but i dunno now.
> what stock temps also should i be shooting for under load for daily use?
> take a look at my rig


Did you mean to put your setup in your profile? I don't see it, I don't know where as I am also "new" to OCN and havn't even put my rig in my profile yet.. haha


----------



## ChrisB17

Whats the max vccio voltage I should be using ?

Here are SS's of my settings.


----------



## cerebrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Did you mean to put your setup in your profile? I don't see it, I don't know where as I am also "new" to OCN and havn't even put my rig in my profile yet.. haha


it should be in my sig now


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> it should be in my sig now


LOL, H100... yea, i don't think you will have a very big temperature problem... gimme a sec and ill get back to u on the settings


----------



## ivymaxwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> it should be in my sig now


thats a nice build. you should look for multiplier ratio and bump it to 45, leave everything alone. at vcore offset -0.05. turn off turbo or you can set your turbo multiplier all to 45.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Whats the max vccio voltage I should be using ?
> Here are SS's of my settings.


try this;
Clear Cmos/load optimized first
Bios/RAM timings (9-10-9-27-*2T* ,1866 strap)leave the rest on auto/choose XMP profile/save restart-enter bios and set your voltages (VCCIO 1.15,DDR 1.625v)/save bios and try to run Hyper PI 32M/
P.S. you can take screen shot of your bios F12+mem stick FAT32


----------



## Electroneng

ChrisB17,

Can you remove 8GB of ram and test? I feel that the ram is the issue. Vccio may need to go to 1.15-1.18v for that much ram! I have set up systems with as much as 64GB of ram and it is a trial and error game.

Coolhandluke41 is giving solid advice!

You can also search the web for stabilizing 16GB of ram on SB/Ivy! You are not alone!


----------



## ChrisB17

Whats the max VCCIO can go up to? I am new to this whole SB/Memory thing.


----------



## coolhandluke41

1.2v


----------



## ChrisB17

Ok so I am not even really close to the max yet.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

The settings for 2500 and 2600 are very similar... the vcore is really the only difference we need to worry about. I say just go right for 4.5 ghz, thats what I did. im on air, so thats what i was shooting for and all i wanted. I can hit higher if i wanted, but i don't, and 4.5 is a usually easy/safe ghz to get to.

use sin screenshots: http://sinhardware.com/index.php/reviews/motherboards/117-gigabyte/lga1155-z77/z77x-ud5h/109-z77x-ud5h-review?showall=&start=1

starting at this one: http://sinhardware.com/images/Z77XUD5HPerformance/7.jpg, use those same exact values for now (we are going to try for 4.5 ghz cuz its easy, and once u understand, have at it and go to whatever makes u happy, but I personally say try and stay under 60C as your on water, and I prefer lifespan over speed, so I would say don't go over 1.35 volts personally (im at 1.26 for a 4.5 ghz on a 2600k...)

This will get you your 1600 RAM speed: http://sinhardware.com/images/Z77XUD5HPerformance/8.jpg
I personally use the XMP profile where he used "disabled" in order to avoid the next steps of manually putting in my specific RAM's timings, but after I use the XMP setting i manually lock my speed in at 16 like he does

After the RAM stuff is set, whichever way you want to do it... you get to the power settings.... http://sinhardware.com/images/Z77XUD5HPerformance/11.jpg
Im using those same settings, which you can do as well, except I have my Vcore Loadline Calibration on extreme, this got my votls to stay dead on under load and idle. you might be able to get away with turbo, but nbd.

http://sinhardware.com/images/Z77XUD5HPerformance/12.jpg
This, leave everything on auto, except the Vcore, like i said, im at 1.260 for 4.5 ghz, im not sure what vcore to use for i5, but ****, try 1.3 and dial it down until you have stability issues, or take your multiplier up to 46, test, then 47 and so on until its unstable. You can either try and find the min volts to get 4.5, then up the volts and up the clock, or just set volts at 1.3 for instance and up your OC until you need more volts to be stable. both ways work, just opposite ways of doing it.

Thats basically it. jsut make sure your have the newest version of cpuz: http://www.cpuid.com/medias/files/softwares/betas/cpuz_160_04.zip (this will read your Vcore correctly, the latest on their website will not) and have core temp to monitor temps, since your on water, it won't be a problem, but always good to check just to make sure. Get prime 95 or another stability testing program, and test away!

Also, forgot to say but I like to lock my RAM votls in as well manually. Just for peace of mind.


----------



## coolhandluke41

post edited ,if this won't work run Memtest86 (for SB) overnight ,good luck


----------



## ChrisB17

Thanks. I appreciate the help.


----------



## Sin0822

i don't think you are setting VCCIO correctly.

you have to also move VCCSA(IMC Voltage) up with it with 0.005v less than VCCIO(VTT).

Goto CPU Voltage menu, set QPI/VTT to 1.15v, then set IMC to 1.145 that would engage it so that they change, otherwise it doesn't increase nice unless you do it in windows.

Also can you change the DRAm stability levels, you can try max them out at 32 each for WR and RW.

BTW Auto-Tune, it works for me, how you only get to 3.6ghz? lol BTW auto tune OCes the system with power savings on.


----------



## ChrisB17

Ok I'm testing with those settings now.


----------



## cerebrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> The settings for 2500 and 2600 are very similar... the vcore is really the only difference we need to worry about. I say just go right for 4.5 ghz, thats what I did. im on air, so thats what i was shooting for and all i wanted. I can hit higher if i wanted, but i don't, and 4.5 is a usually easy/safe ghz to get to.
> use sin screenshots: http://sinhardware.com/index.php/reviews/motherboards/117-gigabyte/lga1155-z77/z77x-ud5h/109-z77x-ud5h-review?showall=&start=1
> starting at this one: http://sinhardware.com/images/Z77XUD5HPerformance/7.jpg, use those same exact values for now (we are going to try for 4.5 ghz cuz its easy, and once u understand, have at it and go to whatever makes u happy, but I personally say try and stay under 60C as your on water, and I prefer lifespan over speed, so I would say don't go over 1.35 volts personally (im at 1.26 for a 4.5 ghz on a 2600k...)
> This will get you your 1600 RAM speed: http://sinhardware.com/images/Z77XUD5HPerformance/8.jpg
> I personally use the XMP profile where he used "disabled" in order to avoid the next steps of manually putting in my specific RAM's timings, but after I use the XMP setting i manually lock my speed in at 16 like he does
> After the RAM stuff is set, whichever way you want to do it... you get to the power settings.... http://sinhardware.com/images/Z77XUD5HPerformance/11.jpg
> Im using those same settings, which you can do as well, except I have my Vcore Loadline Calibration on extreme, this got my votls to stay dead on under load and idle. you might be able to get away with turbo, but nbd.
> http://sinhardware.com/images/Z77XUD5HPerformance/12.jpg
> This, leave everything on auto, except the Vcore, like i said, im at 1.260 for 4.5 ghz, im not sure what vcore to use for i5, but ****, try 1.3 and dial it down until you have stability issues, or take your multiplier up to 46, test, then 47 and so on until its unstable. You can either try and find the min volts to get 4.5, then up the volts and up the clock, or just set volts at 1.3 for instance and up your OC until you need more volts to be stable. both ways work, just opposite ways of doing it.
> Thats basically it. jsut make sure your have the newest version of cpuz: http://www.cpuid.com/medias/files/softwares/betas/cpuz_160_04.zip (this will read your Vcore correctly, the latest on their website will not) and have core temp to monitor temps, since your on water, it won't be a problem, but always good to check just to make sure. Get prime 95 or another stability testing program, and test away!
> Also, forgot to say but I like to lock my RAM votls in as well manually. Just for peace of mind.


rolled back to f5 bios, that seemed to help.

heres where were at, im going to run 10x ibt very high (4 threads) while logging temps in core temp and get back to you guys

http://www.photobucket.com/cerebrixoc

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2337768


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> rolled back to f5 bios, that seemed to help.
> heres where were at, im going to run 10x ibt very high (4 threads) while logging temps in core temp and get back to you guys
> http://www.photobucket.com/cerebrixoc
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2337768


Those settings all look good to me. to test for real stability you need to test for longer tho, obviously if you fail ibt within 10 tries, it isn't stable, but to know for sure you need to run a test at least all night. Also, as I don't know as much about 2500k's, im just hoping 1.3 is enough to run 4.5. i guess u will find out. but at this point, everything looks good, just mess with your volts and watch your temps and let us know how it turns out!


----------



## Sin0822

yea I run my 2500k at 1.4v with no LLC all day in my main rig lol.


----------



## cerebrix

heres my temps from ibt

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=83e0c94922dbcf01&resid=83E0C94922DBCF01!475&parid=83E0C94922DBCF01!115&authkey=!AM_iBjEfsgatcFU

its 4500oc . just right click it and view in browser if you dont have office installed.

im still thinking those are a little high, im currently investigating what 4 fans in push pull will do to help. i have the room and frys is open so.....


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

So 22 hours prime blend test stable, 2600K, 1.260 volts, 100x45. Im pretty happy with that. This afternoon it was about 80f in my room







, and my CPU did creep up to 76c on the hottest core, but considering when it is only about 70f in my room it runs sub 65 full load, I think im good! Now we just need some new BIOS... haha


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> heres my temps from ibt
> https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=83e0c94922dbcf01&resid=83E0C94922DBCF01!475&parid=83E0C94922DBCF01!115&authkey=!AM_iBjEfsgatcFU
> its 4500oc . just right click it and view in browser if you dont have office installed.
> im still thinking those are a little high, im currently investigating what 4 fans in push pull will do to help. i have the room and frys is open so.....


Those temps do seem a little high imo. i don't have a 100, but i do have the original h50 on my i7 920 rig, and it works like a charm! So i could only assume the h100 is even better... Um, what are your idle temps looking like? what thermal paste did you use?

Im assuming the 30-33c are idle temps? considering its the lowest coretemp logged. those are not bad, but maybe Sin can give some input since he actually has a 2500, maybe they run hotter than i would expect? Im pretty sure on h100 you should be under 60 for sure tho... I would have guessed under 55 to be honest


----------



## cerebrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Those temps do seem a little high imo. i don't have a 100, but i do have the original h50 on my i7 920 rig, and it works like a charm! So i could only assume the h100 is even better... Um, what are your idle temps looking like? what thermal paste did you use?
> Im assuming the 30-33c are idle temps? considering its the lowest coretemp logged. those are not bad, but maybe Sin can give some input since he actually has a 2500, maybe they run hotter than i would expect? Im pretty sure on h100 you should be under 60 for sure tho... I would have guessed under 55 to be honest


yeah lowest would be idle temps. lowest core im showing right now is 29c.

i went with IC Diamond 7 for my TIM after i cleaned it with Arcti Clean 2 step thermal material remover. 1 pea sized dot in the middle, push and twist method rather than spread over the surface (which is what IC reccomends).

reading further into it, its looking like 2 more fans might only get me 3 or so degrees. so im wondering if its even worth it.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> yeah lowest would be idle temps. lowest core im showing right now is 29c.
> i went with IC Diamond 7 for my TIM after i cleaned it with Arcti Clean 2 step thermal material remover. 1 pea sized dot in the middle, push and twist method rather than spread over the surface (which is what IC reccomends).
> reading further into it, its looking like 2 more fans might only get me 3 or so degrees. so im wondering if its even worth it.


Thats how I apply my TIM as well, I always use AC5, but its really all the same to be honest... few C here few C there. But, I did c decent differences with my H50 with push/pull. Also, i saw HUGE differences by increasing my case airflow. I cut out 2 circles in my side panel to put 2 antec tri speed fans in, one blowing right into the CPU area to get sucked out by the rad, and one by the video card to help it cool down. This made massive temp differences, so just make sure your case has decent flow (I have all antec tri-speed's in my case, all on high speed to get air moving!) Im not familiar with your case, but it after a quick google it does look like it can sustain decent airflow. Also, make sure you fans are as high as your comfortable having them, as well as making sure the pump is at its highest possible speed ( i think the h100 u can change the pump speed... i could be mistaken)

After looking around online, it looks like people have similar temps, although some people I saw have a 1.4 Vcore @ 4.7-4.8 with about the same temps. So could be differences in ambient and airflow.


----------



## cerebrix

i think i have pretty good airflow.

heres what the build looks like










only difference is ive added another intake fan at the bottom behind the power supply.

so currently has 3 120's for intake (front, side, and bottom), 1 for exhaust (back) and 2 exhaust in push mode for the rad.


----------



## DBEAU

Can you guys recommend me a good ram speed to pair with the UD5H please. I'm sold on these G.Skill ripjaws for a few reasons but I'm unsure about what speed to get. reading through the thread it seems 1600 is trouble free and stable but is it worth the extra money to get 1866? If its going to be a hassle to get the board to run 1866 I don't want to bother.


----------



## Sin0822

i have 4 DIMMs with 16GB of Kingston at 2133 stable with a 2600K and minor VCCIo and VCCSA voltage bump and no alteration of the timings. i think what matters is how compatible the memory is. i think the ripjaws will be fine.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cerebrix*
> 
> i think i have pretty good airflow.
> heres what the build looks like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only difference is ive added another intake fan at the bottom behind the power supply.
> so currently has 3 120's for intake (front, side, and bottom), 1 for exhaust (back) and 2 exhaust in push mode for the rad.


that looks legit! good setup. Um, yea im really not to sure about the temps, i would think they should be lower, but maybe your chip isn't amazing, or maybe not quite enough thermal paste. only thing is your idle is fine, so it doesn't seem like the paste is an issue. Well, just test for stability at 4.5, if its stable all night, lower volts or up the multi. i wouldn't push it much higher tho because of the heat, but maybe it wont climb by that much. experimentation is the name of the game. I personally would prob back off the volts as much as possible and keep it at 4.5, maybe 4.7 max, but thats just my opinion.


----------



## stasio

GA-Z77X-UD5H - F6h

- Improve SandyBridge CPU compatibility
- Improve iGPU compatibility
- Added ability to save 8 BIOS profiles now in BIOS and USB
- Custom names for profiles
- 19.Apr 12

G1.Sniper M3 - F5a
GA-Z77X-UD3H - F8d

also out.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> GA-Z77X-UD5H - F6h
> Improve SandyBridge CPU compatibility
> Improve iGPU compatibility
> G1.Sniper M3 - F5a
> GA-Z77X-UD3H - F8d
> also out.


Sweet! lets c if it fixes any of my issues. haha


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

So, for whatever reason, q-flash has decided to stop working and won't let me backup or flash my bios. Im sure I can switch to my second BIOS and get in, but what do I do about this BIOS? Im afraid that if I flash my F5 BIOS to the new one and it doesn't allow G-Flash to work either, I will be stuck. How do i override my second BIOS with my fist, so I can always keep one at F5?


----------



## lsdmeasap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> So, for whatever reason, q-flash has decided to stop working and won't let me backup or flash my bios. Im sure I can switch to my second BIOS and get in, but what do I do about this BIOS?


Boot from the second BIOS, if you can't boot to windows on the main one, then ALT+F10 on startup from the second BIOS on a reboot from windows, this will reflash the MAIN BIOS with the backup BIOS you'd be booting from.

BTW, the above mentioned BIOSes from Stasio have added this also (at least for UD3H)

- Added ability to save 8 BIOS profiles now *+ Custom names for profiles*!!


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsdmeasap*
> 
> Boot from the second BIOS, if you can't boot to windows on the main one, then ALT+F10 on startup from the second BIOS on a reboot from windows, this will reflash the MAIN BIOS with the backup BIOS you'd be booting from.
> BTW, the above mentioned BIOSes from Stasio have added this also (at least for UD3H)
> - Added ability to save 8 BIOS profiles now *+ Custom names for profiles*!!


Problem is i think my "bad" bios is my "backup" bios and my good bios is my main one. So i want to copy my main to my backup. I think... when the switch on my motherboard is switched the the front of the board (toward the SATA headers), that is my good working 100% BIOS. When it is switched to the rear of the board (IO panel) qflash doesn't work. What do i do?!?!?! Bricking both of my BIOS would put a huge downer on my weekend... lol

For now im goign to try @BIOS and hope it flashes. worst case it doesn't work i figure.


----------



## Dark Mantis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Problem is i think my "bad" bios is my "backup" bios and my good bios is my main one. So i want to copy my main to my backup. I think... when the switch on my motherboard is switched the the front of the board (toward the SATA headers), that is my good working 100% BIOS. When it is switched to the rear of the board (IO panel) qflash doesn't work. What do i do?!?!?! Bricking both of my BIOS would put a huge downer on my weekend... lol
> For now im goign to try @BIOS and hope it flashes. worst case it doesn't work i figure.


Ok for what you want to do don't use @BIOS because of the danger of bricking the entire board. Follow these instructions to copy your Main BIOS over to the Backup BIOS:

If you have a PS2 keyboarrd connect that instead of the USB version as it is more reliable.

From a cold start with the power to the machine switched off press the power button and then enter the BIOS by pressing *Del*.
Then when you get to the main screen press *F9*.

This will bring up an extra screen which will display more information about the two BIOS versions. Assuming they are different exit the BIOS and shutdown.

Again press the power button and this time press *Alt + F12* where you would normally use the Del key to enter the BIOS. You will find that then your monitor will turn black and you will see:

*Press [Enter] to start copying main BIOS to backup BIOS...*

When you press *Enter* more text will appear saying:

*Writing BIOS image.... xxxKb OK*

Once completed more text will show:

*BIOS successfully recovered! Power off or reset system!*

Do as it says. Both Main and Backup BIOS chips now store the same BIOS version. You can now reboot as normal.

When you copy the first BIOS image to the second BIOS it also copies the current configuration
so if you use RAID or something, set it before the copy. It also copies over any saved profiles too.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark Mantis*
> 
> Ok for what you want to do don't use @BIOS because of the danger of bricking the entire board. Follow these instructions to copy your Main BIOS over to the Backup BIOS:
> If you have a PS2 keyboarrd connect that instead of the USB version as it is more reliable.
> From a cold start with the power to the machine switched off press the power button and then enter the BIOS by pressing *Del*.
> Then when you get to the main screen press *F9*.
> 
> This will bring up an extra screen which will display more information about the two BIOS versions. Assuming they are different exit the BIOS and shutdown.
> Again press the power button and this time press *Alt + F12* where you would normally use the Del key to enter the BIOS. You will find that then your monitor will turn black and you will see:
> *Press [Enter] to start copying main BIOS to backup BIOS...*
> When you press *Enter* more text will appear saying:
> *Writing BIOS image.... xxxKb OK*
> Once completed more text will show:
> *BIOS successfully recovered! Power off or reset system!*
> Do as it says. Both Main and Backup BIOS chips now store the same BIOS version. You can now reboot as normal.
> When you copy the first BIOS image to the second BIOS it also copies the current configuration
> so if you use RAID or something, set it before the copy. It also copies over any saved profiles too.


Well, I read this right after I used @bios, but it all worked fine. But still, im confused here. Which BIOS is the backup and which is the MAIN? im pretty sure my "backup" bios is the one I have been messing with and putting BETA BIOS on... If I have been doing this wrong as I think I have I want to start doing it correctly so I can always follow these instructions in the event of a problem. Basically, I will put both of my BIOS at a factory F5, and then load the BETA into the main bios and leave the backup as F5. Which is backup and which is MAIN? Also, it looks like Q-Flash doesn't work right with F6h.... whats up with that?

But on another note, the F6h worked great! Sleep now works perfect, havn't tried to reboot yet so won't know if that has been fixed, but regardless, sleep being fixed is great!


----------



## lsdmeasap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Problem is i think my "bad" bios is my "backup" bios and my good bios is my main one. So i want to copy my main to my backup. I think... when the switch on my motherboard is switched the the front of the board (toward the SATA headers), that is my good working 100% BIOS. When it is switched to the rear of the board (IO panel) qflash doesn't work. What do i do?!?!?! Bricking both of my BIOS would put a huge downer on my weekend... lol
> For now im goign to try @BIOS and hope it flashes. worst case it doesn't work i figure.


Well either way it will flash the other, so it doesn't matter which is corrupted. Using the working BIOS and that hotkey will flash the non-working BIOS, no matter what setting you have the switch on as it's just flash current to other

ALT + F10 for Z77/X79 DM









What Qflash issue are you having? You may need to be sure Legacy USB and 60/64h emulation are enabled if you are trying to flash via USB.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsdmeasap*
> 
> Well either way it will flash the other, so it doesn't matter which is corrupted. Using the working BIOS and that hotkey will flash the non-working BIOS, no matter what setting you have the switch on as it's just flash current to other
> ALT + F10 for Z77/X79 DM


Ok, I did try that, and when I hit Alt+F10 right when the PC turns on it just holds at the POST screen, maybe not the POST screen but it is the screen where it gives u options like del for BIOS/qflash, F9 for _ end for Qflash and all that across the bottom, once I let go of that it continues on and loads windows... when should i hold alt+f10?


----------



## lsdmeasap

Don't hold it, just start holding ALT when you get the screen you mentioned and hit F10 a few times, you may need to try it a few times but you'll get it.

You may also need to use a PS/2 keyboard to do this, so if you keep having issues with USB KB then try PS/2 one or with a USB to PS/2 adapter


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsdmeasap*
> 
> Don't hold it, just start holding ALT when you get the screen you mentioned and hit F10 a few times, you may need to try it a few times but you'll get it.
> You may also need to use a PS/2 keyboard to do this, so if you keep having issues with USB KB then try PS/2 one or with a USB to PS/2 adapter


Ok ill try it tomorrow morning, about to go to sleep. But, 2 problems with the PS2 kb, i don't have one with me, and mobo doesn't have a header for it.. lol. gata love it. but im sure it will work over USB once i figure out when to press the button at the right time. Thanks for the help!


----------



## lsdmeasap

Haha, wow, sorry I didn't realize UD5H doesn't have a PS/2 port! Then at the very least put your keyboard on the Intel USB under the LAN ports.

You'll get it though, just keep trying, and if it seems to always fail try another USB keyboard if you have one because sometimes some do not work as well as others.


----------



## stasio

New BIOS coming.........









G1.Sniper M3 - F5b
GA-Z77X-UD5H - F6i
GA-Z77X-UD3H - F8e
GA-Z77X-D3H - F7h
GA-Z77-D3H - F12d
GA-Z77M-D3H - F6d
GA-Z77MX-D3H - F10b

is out on TT forum.


----------



## ChrisB17

I let ibt run over night and got up to a restarted Pc. Might be windows updates? Anyways what else could I try to get stable more vccio?


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> But on another note, the F6h worked great! Sleep now works perfect, havn't tried to reboot yet so won't know if that has been fixed, but regardless, sleep being fixed is great!


Sweet! I just tested sleep on F5 and can confirm the loss of OC. I'll try F6h and/or F6i when I get home later today.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> I let ibt run over night and got up to a restarted Pc. Might be windows updates? Anyways what else could I try to get stable more vccio?


Did it BSOD? You can find out by going to the Reliability Monitor in Control Panel and see if there is an X in the Windows Failures row. If you don't see an X there then it may not have been a BSOD.

If you do see an X, click on the day it happened and see if it says something like "Windows stopped working" under Critical events. Click on "View technical details" for that event. Depending on how the info is presented, it might say something like "The bugcheck was: 0x00000124" where 124 is the BSOD error number.

To keep Windows from automatically rebooting upon encountering a BSOD, you should disable auto restart in the system settings. Go to System in Control Panel and click on "Advanced system settings" on the left. Under the Advanced tab, click on the settings button next to Startup and Recovery. Uncheck "Automatically restart" under System failure and click OK to close it out.

As far as updates, you can check to see if they occurred by opening up Windows Update in Control Panel. It will say when updates were last installed. Personally I always disable automatic updates since I don't want anything disturbing my PC when it is running. I frequently check for updates manually anyway.


----------



## ChrisB17

It didn't bsod. Just restarted with a "windows has installed new updates" message.


----------



## Sin0822

the last BIOSes stasio posted are the fixing BIOS-es







good they are doing great now!

BTW you corrupted during flash, you prob corrupted your main BIOS. IMO I woudl switch back to your main BIOS and get dual BIOS to kick in and fix everything for you if I was you. If that fails Id switch to back up and flash the main like they are telling you. You gotta try hitting ALT+F10 many times.


----------



## ChrisB17

Do the new bios's fix memory stability issues?


----------



## DBEAU

I'm planning on ordering my ud5h + memory tonight. Can anyone confirm compatibility with these G.Skill 2133 "ARES". The gigabyte website confirms compatibility with the same speed "Ripjaws" but they are sold out.

I'm sure they'll be fine but it would be nice if someone actually knew for sure. Thanks

BTW thanks for all the help so far guys and especially Sin and Stasio for keeping it real.


----------



## fasty

SYSTEM FAN SPEEDS question

Here's something I can't explain - I just got two identical new PWM system fans for the front of my Lian Li case.
I plugged one into SYS_FAN1 and the other into SYS_FAN2 so I could monitor both independently.

Curiously, Fan 1 seems to run at about half the speed of Fan 2 although they both do adjust as expected with temperature.
For example, at idle Fan 1 may be about 700rpm while Fan 2 is around 1400 rpm. (measured in BIOS or hwmonitor)
If I disable system fan control in BIOS, they both run up to 2000 rpm, so clearly they're connected correctly.
Also, if I bodge the wiring so both get the same PWM signal from SYS_FAN1, then they both run at simlar speeds, so clearly the fans are indeed the same; it's the bevaviour of the motherboard headers that's different.

The BIOS was set to NORMAL for the system fans, although changing this doesn't fix it. It's like the system fan headers are being asssigned different "Slope PWM" values or something.
Does the board expect different types of fans on headers SYS_FAN1 and SYS_FAN2 ? Or perhaps it's a BIOS bug?

I also notice that the some of the pin connections shown for the system fans on Page 27 of the manual are different between the system fans. I'm guessing this is a typo, but maybe not?

- Steve


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Do the new bios's fix memory stability issues?


It is stable now is it not?
You just needed to increase VCCIO and VCCSA?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I'm planning on ordering my ud5h + memory tonight. Can anyone confirm compatibility with these G.Skill 2133 "ARES". The gigabyte website confirms compatibility with the same speed "Ripjaws" but they are sold out.
> I'm sure they'll be fine but it would be nice if someone actually knew for sure. Thanks
> BTW thanks for all the help so far guys and especially Sin and Stasio for keeping it real.


Those sticks should work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> SYSTEM FAN SPEEDS question
> Here's something I can't explain - I just got two identical new PWM system fans for the front of my Lian Li case.
> I plugged one into SYS_FAN1 and the other into SYS_FAN2 so I could monitor both independently.
> Curiously, Fan 1 seems to run at about half the speed of Fan 2 although they both do adjust as expected with temperature.
> For example, at idle Fan 1 may be about 700rpm while Fan 2 is around 1400 rpm. (measured in BIOS or hwmonitor)
> If I disable system fan control in BIOS, they both run up to 2000 rpm, so clearly they're connected correctly.
> Also, if I bodge the wiring so both get the same PWM signal from SYS_FAN1, then they both run at simlar speeds, so clearly the fans are indeed the same; it's the bevaviour of the motherboard headers that's different.
> The BIOS was set to NORMAL for the system fans, although changing this doesn't fix it. It's like the system fan headers are being asssigned different "Slope PWM" values or something.
> Does the board expect different types of fans on headers SYS_FAN1 and SYS_FAN2 ? Or perhaps it's a BIOS bug?
> I also notice that the some of the pin connections shown for the system fans on Page 27 of the manual are different between the system fans. I'm guessing this is a typo, but maybe not?
> - Steve


I will check this out, try and measure the current being deliver on those fan headers.


----------



## ChrisB17

Failed again running ibt on maximum. Any othe suggestions?


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I will check this out, try and measure the current being deliver on those fan headers.


Thanks ! I have a spare fan so I will see how the other 2 fan headers behave.
I could also measure the PWM waveform on Monday if necessary and see what is going on!

Edit: Further info on other fan headers :

FAN1: Runs "slower", varies
FAN2: Runs "faster", varies
FAN3: Same as Fan2, varies
FAN4: Always seems to run FULL SPEED, no variation!

- Steve


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Failed again running ibt on maximum. Any othe suggestions?


You did a memtest 86 test?

Did you try what Dino said and change your 3rd timings up?

Stating with the beginning of the 3rd timings, you want to set 10,000 then 90, then change all the 3s to 8s, except for the last two, make them 7.

Perhaps that kit isn't fully compatible with this board, I will report the issue, but depends on how old the kit it, it might be hard to fix if there is an issue. IMO you might want to call their support, and tell them what is going one, they might have the ability to test that memory.


----------



## ChrisB17

Hmmm just finally passed







. Had to bump vram voltage up to 1.56v along with the IMC and VCCIO settings you suggested. Is this ok to use everyday?


----------



## Sin0822

yes, ivy bridge should be a bit better. but that is deff fine to run 24/7. How much did you bump QPI/VTT SB might need a slight VCCIO and VCCSA bump with 4 DIMMs and 1866, but idk 1866 isn't hat high to require one.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

I have tried many times to get the alt F10 thing to work, it never does anything, all i get is a black screen as i press the buttons, and once i stop repeatedly press alt F10, the screen goes away and boots windows. Also, any idea what F6i fixes compared to 6h?


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yes, ivy bridge should be a bit better. but that is deff fine to run 24/7. How much did you bump QPI/VTT SB might need a slight VCCIO and VCCSA bump with 4 DIMMs and 1866, but idk 1866 isn't hat high to require one.


QPI/VTT to 1.15v, then IMC to 1.145v with dram @ 1.5600v


----------



## MME1122

Quick question,
If I buy the UD5H without the WiFi/Bluetooth add on, can I add it later? It looks like it's some kind of card (mini-pcie? or mSATA? I'm not really sure what those things are).
Depending on price I might go with the add on thing instead of a pcie card. I really only want WiFi for bridging to Ethernet so I'm not sure if it's worth it.

Also, I'm looking to get Fractal's define r3. I was thinking of painting the heat sinks white to match the white accents on the case, any thoughts on that?


----------



## cerebrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> Quick question,
> If I buy the UD5H without the WiFi/Bluetooth add on, can I add it later? It looks like it's some kind of card (mini-pcie? or mSATA? I'm not really sure what those things are).
> Depending on price I might go with the add on thing instead of a pcie card. I really only want WiFi for bridging to Ethernet so I'm not sure if it's worth it.
> Also, I'm looking to get Fractal's define r3. I was thinking of painting the heat sinks white to match the white accents on the case, any thoughts on that?


paint will insulate the heatsink.


----------



## DBEAU

I have another ram question... Hopefully my last, please bear with me









The ram I intend to use requires 1.65v. Will Sandy Bridge safely run memory voltage this high? I thought the white papers for SB indicated a max memory voltage of 1.5 or something like that.


----------



## magictoaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> Quick question,
> If I buy the UD5H without the WiFi/Bluetooth add on, can I add it later? It looks like it's some kind of card (mini-pcie? or mSATA? I'm not really sure what those things are).
> Depending on price I might go with the add on thing instead of a pcie card. I really only want WiFi for bridging to Ethernet so I'm not sure if it's worth it.


It should be available soon. At least that is what Gigabytes sales told me :

"_Dear customer,
The model GC-WB300D is currently not available it should be release and available within the next couple of weeks.
Thank you_".


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> QPI/VTT to 1.15v, then IMC to 1.145v with dram @ 1.5600v


Ahh nice, glad to hear it works.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> Quick question,
> If I buy the UD5H without the WiFi/Bluetooth add on, can I add it later? It looks like it's some kind of card (mini-pcie? or mSATA? I'm not really sure what those things are).
> Depending on price I might go with the add on thing instead of a pcie card. I really only want WiFi for bridging to Ethernet so I'm not sure if it's worth it.
> Also, I'm looking to get Fractal's define r3. I was thinking of painting the heat sinks white to match the white accents on the case, any thoughts on that?


I saw someone paint the heatsinks, i think you can do it with a spray gun, the heatsinks cool well enough, but beware that if you need to for some reason cool them with a fan (which you don't anyways) then the paint will be another barrier.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I have another ram question... Hopefully my last, please bear with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ram I intend to use requires 1.65v. Will Sandy Bridge safely run memory voltage this high? I thought the white papers for SB indicated a max memory voltage of 1.5 or something like that.


Yes sandy bridge will support it, Intel is just being stupid to say max is 1.5v +/_ 3% or whatever they say. IMO its marketing to sell newer DRAM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magictoaster*
> 
> It should be available soon. At least that is what Gigabytes sales told me :
> "Dear customer,
> The model GC-WB300D is currently not available it should be release and available within the next couple of weeks.
> Thank you".


Nice, good to hear!


----------



## Clockster

So both my Z77x UD5H and Z77x UD3H suffer from a boot loop and nothing seems to fix it.
So pissed right now, was so looking forward to gaming on my new machines...Now that's gone out the window.

Machine boots, 2 seconds later shuts down and restarts..20 times...


----------



## Sin0822

you need to update to the latest BIOS just posted today, otherwise something else is wrong.


----------



## ivymaxwell

Googleing ud5h problems, this board seems to have the most problems of all z77 boards so far, just look how big this thread is. it is unfortunate because this board gives you the most features and quality components for the price, but somehow its built with bad coding or design or something, which makes all the futures moot. the board does have potential tho, but none of that matters right now.


----------



## Sin0822

hey man this board should have very little problems after the Final BIOS release. The most problems now are from users with 2600K, and the BIOS was publicly released today that fixes the 2600K alone problems.

This BIOS for the UD3H should fix the boot loops, the OC failed, and the mouse problems: http://www.mediafire.com/?h4y7z4va5syj71p
Same for the UD5H here: http://www.mediafire.com/?hh68o6dxbk6qohu

F8E(E) and F6I(UD5H)

BTW person above me, wait until Ivy comes out, this board doesn't have the issues it was with the 2600K with Ivy or with 2500K it seems(but i didn't test 2500K, i just hear)

mouse issues shodul be improved, BTW watch out there were TWO BETAs released today, the latest ones are teh latest ones Stasio posted:
G1.Sniper M3 - F5b
GA-Z77X-UD5H - F6i
GA-Z77X-UD3H - F8e
GA-Z77X-D3H - F7h
GA-Z77-D3H - F12d
GA-Z77M-D3H - F6d
GA-Z77MX-D3H - F11b

Also there should be final BIOS soon.
There is also F6h and F6D, however I was told F6i is what you want for the UD5H. I am about to test them now and make sure it was solved. However a few days ago when i promised this BIOS, i did that because i was given a none public BIOS for the UD3H to see if it fixed the issue, and it did. I don't just promise things I am promised, i actually tested it before i made that claim.

After you flash the BIOS it is always a good idea to load optimized defaults and restart, or else odd things start to happen.


----------



## Clockster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you need to update to the latest BIOS just posted today, otherwise something else is wrong.


Thanx for the reply.

I would flash it but its just not possible.
Pc's starts for literally 2 seconds then shuts down and restarts..On both board with different chips and ram.


----------



## Alepale

Incompatible RAM can cause that.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I have another ram question... Hopefully my last, please bear with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ram I intend to use requires 1.65v. Will Sandy Bridge safely run memory voltage this high? I thought the white papers for SB indicated a max memory voltage of 1.5 or something like that.


this was posted by GSkill rep. . *regarding 1.65v kit running under Sandy Bridge and Ivy Bridge*;
Quote:


> Dear Customer
> 
> We can certainly clarify the confusion you may have. Intel does NOT support overclocking, so DDR3-1600 is the maximum frequency they suggest. As a result, DRAM Voltage is also limited at 1.50V (standard). This memory kit is clearly not average, or standard, so of course it will not follow Intel's guidelines. As you know, Intel has had this DDR3 limitation for Sandybridge and chipsets prior, so it is nothing new. If you do a quick search for performance DDR3 memory, everything is above 1.50V. Rarely is <1.50V memory considered high performance.
> 
> G.Skill produces the best (extreme) memory modules available on the market. Rest assured that the kits are tested for their specific platforms. With the proper settings, although much greater than Intel specifications, it will not harm your CPU. Similar to CPU frequency overclocking, 4.6GHz+ from 3.8GHz default (turbo) is common, but technically Intel does not support it. If you want to follow Intel and the standards, you will need to purchase DDR3-1600 CL11 or under.
> 
> Thank you
> GSKILL SUPPORT


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231591&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivymaxwell*
> 
> Googleing ud5h problems, this board seems to have the most problems of all z77 boards so far, just look how big this thread is. it is unfortunate because this board gives you the most features and quality components for the price, but somehow its built with bad coding or design or something, which makes all the futures moot. the board does have potential tho, but none of that matters right now.


On the other hand, keep in mind that the UD5H is a type of board that they are selling a lot to enthusiasts and overclockers who are interesting in pushing the boundaries of what's possible with the board or discussing endless details which might not be of interest to the typical buyer of a more run-of-the-mill board.
I was actually surprised by how few imperfections I found with the board, especially considering the BIOS is quite immature; it's only been out a few days. I have a feeling that this one is going to be a "keeper"


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivymaxwell*
> 
> Googleing ud5h problems, this board seems to have the most problems of all z77 boards so far, just look how big this thread is. it is unfortunate because this board gives you the most features and quality components for the price, but somehow its built with bad coding or design or something, which makes all the futures moot. the board does have potential tho, but none of that matters right now.


I'd disagree. The only reason it looks like the UD5H has the most problems is because we created a community on this forum specifically for the Z77 Gigabyte line to assist each other in transitioning from either one platform to another. This in itself isn't easy, and the responses in this thread alone have contributed in at least _three_ BIOS updates that have alleviated some of the minor issues a few members have had. The fact that Gigabyte has gone through such great extent to take care *minor* issues that some members are having completely blows me away, and I have yet to see this kind of support from any other manufacturer. I have complete faith that Gigabyte will take care its loyal customers.

Also something to take note: Many motherboards using a Sandy Bridge processor on a Z77 motherboard are having minor issues that are being reported throughout random locations on the net. The difference with them in comparison to Gigabyte is that there isn't a community like this to highlight and solve problems that members are having.

I have yet to see any other Z77 club, nor have I seen the same support the Gigabyte community is providing to each other.


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> New BIOS coming.........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> G1.Sniper M3 - F5b
> GA-Z77X-UD5H - F6i
> GA-Z77X-UD3H - F8e
> GA-Z77X-D3H - F7h
> GA-Z77-D3H - F12d
> GA-Z77M-D3H - F6d
> GA-Z77MX-D3H - F11b
> is out on TT forum.


Thanks, Stasio. I am happy to confirm that the F6i for the Z77x-UD5H has given me back mass compatibility in EUFI (using a gaming mouse).


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockster*
> 
> Thanx for the reply.
> I would flash it but its just not possible.
> Pc's starts for literally 2 seconds then shuts down and restarts..On both board with different chips and ram.


You need to RMA your board. First of all.

Second of all there are two 2600K problems, and have been solved with the BIOS update today, so that is a big deal, and there should be no more 2600K problems.


----------



## craney

Hi guys

Just installed my new Z77X-D3H its my first gigabyte board so slowely finding my way around. I am trying to overclock my i5, i have changed the multi to 40 but it seems to keep downclocking when im at the desktop. Do i need to disbale a feature to stop this from happening? Also i noticed that the turbo cores function seemed to have different values for each core 33,34,35,36 is this normal?

Sorry for sounding kinda dumb but never had a board with this many features before lol, also noticed my 1600mhz memory seems to be running at 1333mhz as well, im just worried about touch to many things and screwing it up. Is the easytune software ok to use on the desktop to try overclocking? or should i stick to the bios to be safe?

Thanks again guys

Liam


----------



## Electroneng

With a 2500k, I have been looking for some problems but finding very few.

Going IVY next week and we will see!

Before starting to overclock any board, I recommend anyone to spend 3 - 4 Hours researching The CPU architecture as well as the Motherboard chipset! Expecting to just pop it in and have it work flawless at high overclocks is not reasonable. Also,buying any new launch product, expect some issues


----------



## mandrix

I have the GA-Z77-UD5H mobo, and I'm having problems trying to set much of anything in the BIOS. Can't change dram timings, for example. I've been bouncing back and forth between the GUI and the "Advanced" pages and found the Advanced just won't let me touch some things, and the GUI version locks up on me.
Using the F6i BIOS. No boot problems, loops, etc. No keyboard problems as far as I can see unless it's the keyboard locking up the GUI.
Finally I just used EasyTune to set a modest 4.2GHz OC to see what would happen. (it worked)


----------



## Sin0822

something is wrong i am guessing with your BIOS flash.

i recommend that you reflash the BIOS through QFLASH in the BIOS itself with a USb thumb drive formatted in FAT32 with the BIOS rom on the drive.

After the flash hit reboot, and then go back into the BIOS goto the last page in the advanced section and hit "Load Optimized Defaults" Then restart after you selected that option.

This is something you should always do if you are having issues, however i and many others do this after every BIOS flash on every board if you are going to OC it.

If you are still having issues I can try and help you, however you should easily be able to change things.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> Hi guys
> Just installed my new Z77X-D3H its my first gigabyte board so slowely finding my way around. I am trying to overclock my i5, i have changed the multi to 40 but it seems to keep downclocking when im at the desktop. Do i need to disbale a feature to stop this from happening? Also i noticed that the turbo cores function seemed to have different values for each core 33,34,35,36 is this normal?
> Sorry for sounding kinda dumb but never had a board with this many features before lol, also noticed my 1600mhz memory seems to be running at 1333mhz as well, im just worried about touch to many things and screwing it up. Is the easytune software ok to use on the desktop to try overclocking? or should i stick to the bios to be safe?
> Thanks again guys
> Liam


You need to disable EIST, C1E, and C3/C6 states under advanced CPu menu, you might also want to disable turbo mode and set the main ratio.

I have Z77/Ivy OC guide coming out, but Ivy and sandy OCing are the same for the most part, ivy is easier.


----------



## ChrisB17

I'm on f5 bios running prime now stable. Should I update bios or just keep f5?


----------



## Sin0822

if you have no BIOS you should stay, but if you start having problems you might want to flash to F6I, BTW you have a BIOS switch, why not switch the BIOS and flash to a new one on the backup? it will erase your profile tho.


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> You need to RMA your board. First of all.
> Second of all there are two 2600K problems, and have been solved with the BIOS update today, so that is a big deal, and there should be no more 2600K problems.


Can you clarify the 2600K problems that were solved? I do not agree as I have this CPU and BIOS F6i and sleep mode does not wake nicely. It goes through the boot loops at least three times and the BIOS then prompt for user intervention. It even does this at stock speed! What am I doing wrong?


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> if you have no BIOS you should stay, but if you start having problems you might want to flash to F6I, BTW you have a BIOS switch, why not switch the BIOS and flash to a new one on the backup? it will erase your profile tho.


Does F6i Allow the PC to go to sleep? And so far the only issue with F5 is the mouse doesn't work. But I dont really give a crap I am used to the old way anyways.


----------



## Sin0822

The sleep mode thing, it goes to sleep fine for me at stock. Let me check it out.

Two issues were fixed:

#1 there was an issue if you pressed restart button or told windows to restart twice in a row the system would have an OC failure, but still be OCed lol.

#3 was once every certain amount of boots the board would cycle anywhere from 2 to 7 times and then proceed to boot like nothing happened.

both are fixed on all boards with these latest BIOSes, and oddly enough the issues were only on 2600K.


----------



## ChrisB17

I haven't tried F5 sleep. But I mean so far the rig is super stable running prime and IBT after the voltage was adjusted.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> something is wrong i am guessing with your BIOS flash.
> i recommend that you reflash the BIOS through QFLASH in the BIOS itself with a USb thumb drive formatted in FAT32 with the BIOS rom on the drive.
> After the flash hit reboot, and then go back into the BIOS goto the last page in the advanced section and hit "Load Optimized Defaults" Then restart after you selected that option.
> This is something you should always do if you are having issues, however i and many others do this after every BIOS flash on every board if you are going to OC it.
> If you are still having issues I can try and help you, however you should easily be able to change things.


I finally managed to get my dram settings, but I had to keep toggling back and forth between Quick/Expert to make each change.
I always use Qflash with a thumb drive and I always load optimized defaults thereafter.
Funny thing is I can only make dram/voltage changes etc in the GUI, not in the Advanced setup.

Do you think backing up the 2nd BIOS with the same will help (like with Z68) ? In any event I will do that later.

Thanks.


----------



## Sin0822

why do you need to use expert?

Quick allow you to change 1 set of timings for all DIMMs, expert allow you to change each DIMM individually.

No something is weird, i would reflash the BIOS just to see if it happens again.

you aren't setting in advanced then going into 3d and saving out of 3d are you?


----------



## mandrix

No, I wasn't doing that. I reflashed F6i and it seems to be working OK for me now with wired or wireless keyboard. So maybe the other flash was corrupt; one thing I noticed after I let Easy Tune OC then later reverted to stock and rebooted, EasyTune had a bunch of garbage numbers in it (before reflash). Anyway I was able to set my dram timings and will move on tomorrow and do super pi tests then start working on the OC.
So right now I guess everything looking ok, sin, so I'll continue on tomorrow with my new mobo adventure. Now waiting for my G Skill Trident 2400 dram to get here (maybe tomorrow mail) and of course the new cpu's.

Thanks again.


----------



## Sin0822

in a little while something new will release and you wont have to use easytune.
http://hwbot.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42496&page=13


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> The sleep mode thing, it goes to sleep fine for me at stock. Let me check it out.
> Two issues were fixed:
> #1 there was an issue if you pressed restart button or told windows to restart twice in a row the system would have an OC failure, but still be OCed lol.
> #3 was once every certain amount of boots the board would cycle anywhere from 2 to 7 times and then proceed to boot like nothing happened.
> both are fixed on all boards with these latest BIOSes, and oddly enough the issues were only on 2600K.


Clear CMOS. Load default and was able to sleep and wake w/ stock speed. What about at OC speed? Where is the option to disable internal PLL voltage on this board? Cheers!


----------



## vvista

Just to clarify, BIOS F6i & 2600K can't wake up from sleep mode properly when OC. This renders the new Intel rapid start, smart connect useless!


----------



## DBEAU

Does the problems with the 2600k have something to do with hyperthreading? aside from more cache thats the only difference between it and the 2500k. I plan on disabling HT anyway so it'd be great if that remedies some of these problems


----------



## smokemeakipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> The sleep mode thing, it goes to sleep fine for me at stock. Let me check it out.
> Two issues were fixed:
> #1 there was an issue if you pressed restart button or told windows to restart twice in a row the system would have an OC failure, but still be OCed lol.
> #3 was once every certain amount of boots the board would cycle anywhere from 2 to 7 times and then proceed to boot like nothing happened.
> both are fixed on all boards with these latest BIOSes, and oddly enough the issues were only on 2600K.


Hi all

Great info here chaps, marvellous.
I have the restart twice error if i restart in windows(i5 2500k) other than that, all good.
O.C to 4.4. All Ive done is to set the dynamic vcore to -0.030v . Volt under load is around 1.344. All other settings on default, except igpu is on.

Hi sin0822,

Great support your giving here, thanks.
I,m looking forward to your O.C guide.


----------



## valvehead

F6i seems to have fixed my two issues:

There are no longer any multiple boots or OC failed messages at boot time.
OC settings are now preserved after resuming from sleep.
The individual turbo settings still don't work, but this is a non-issue since I am using the base multiplier to overclock anyway.


----------



## Sin0822

so um CPU PLL Overvoltage has been set to work behind the scenes to make things "easier" it really is freaking annoying I agree, they should make it a setting. on these boards it is disabled until 40X.


----------



## ChrisB17

probably a dumb question. But my mobo says A0 when in windows. Is that normal? Thanks again for all your help guys, I really appreciate it.


----------



## H1ghland3r

New UD5H owner, been setting things up the last few days after switching from my P67-UD4-B3 which was driving me up the wall with the boot looping problem. Anyway....

So I was having most of the problems outlined on this thread.. all of which seem to have been solved when I flashed the BIOS to F6i, seems to be pretty solid now at stock speeds (CPU is a Sandy 2500K fyi)
One problem I did notice after the flash was that when I let the PC go to sleep and came back to it devices that I had disabled (FireWire and Marvel SATA ports) seemed to be enabled..? I rebooted into the BIOS where they showed up as disabled and when I rebooted into Windows they had gone again..??!?

If this is a problem that is known then please ignore.. otherwise someone at GB might need to look into it.!? Was mostly for information actually as I don't tend to use sleep much.. even less likely on this board as it boots so damn fast.. I'm going from power on to W7 login prompt in less than 20 secs..!! that's waaay faster than the old P67..


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> so um CPU PLL Overvoltage has been set to work behind the scenes to make things "easier" it really is freaking annoying I agree, they should make it a setting. on these boards it is disabled until 40X.


I'm all for it ,Is it possible to ask them for this option in upcoming Bioses ?
Thanks


----------



## Sin0822

I said something early on, and I guess it makes sense to put it behind the scenes with Ivy because Ivy seems to be able to recover from sleep with it enabled. They just didn't think so many people would use Sandy, that is what I guess.

I can't make promises but i will ask for it.


----------



## vvista

Please request Gigabyte add the option. After all, they advertise the mobo to work with 32 & 22nm CPUs!


----------



## vvista

Initial thoughts on Lucid Virtu MVP: sucks big time how you have to connect equipment to get the drivers to install! Does anyone else have this bad experience? Don't they already have a year of Virtu experience on SNB!


----------



## mandrix

Outside of the early problems I had with a board shipped with bent socket pins and an apparent botched BIOS flash, this board (UD5H) has been super. Took me forever it seemed to OC my Z68 and I haven't had the first BSOD yet at 4.5GHz with this one.
Haven't run any long stability tests yet, because I'm trying to get some better cooling going in spite of having the Zalman pump. Got a push/pull going now with a couple'a Vortex fans and we'll see.
So far running lower core volts than with Z68 so we'll see how it goes.
Glad now I stuck with Gigabyte, they've really made some great changes.


----------



## dinos22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Glad now I stuck with Gigabyte, they've really made some great changes.


good to hear


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvista*
> 
> Initial thoughts on Lucid Virtu MVP: sucks big time how you have to connect equipment to get the drivers to install! Does anyone else have this bad experience? Don't they already have a year of Virtu experience on SNB!


that is MVP's issue, however it isn't such a big deal, to run MVp you need to plug into the board's outputs, which isn't an issue since all these boards have all the outputs. That is one reason GB provided all the outputs, and not just a mini HDMI connector with attachments. However you just gotta boot up with your dGPU, install its drivers, then go into the BIOS and set enable to the iGPU and set display first as IGFX then you need to reboot install intel VGA and then MVP and everything should work.


----------



## ChrisB17

My MVP drivers worked fine using my GPU's DVI output. Easier then I thought.

a couple questions. First my boards LED display shows A0 is that normal?

Also I have this random driver that I am not sure what it is. PCI Simple controller?










And also it says "my usb port had a surge thing" not to sure what that was..


----------



## Sin0822

yes A0 is normal.

i am not sure about the others, does everything work okay?


----------



## ChrisB17

Yea it all works ok. Just worried a little about the USB surge issue. Never seen that before.


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> that is MVP's issue, however it isn't such a big deal, to run MVp you need to plug into the board's outputs, which isn't an issue since all these boards have all the outputs. That is one reason GB provided all the outputs, and not just a mini HDMI connector with attachments. However you just gotta boot up with your dGPU, install its drivers, then go into the BIOS and set enable to the iGPU and set display first as IGFX then you need to reboot install intel VGA and then MVP and everything should work.


On Asus Z68, Lucid Virtu can be installed w/o monitor connected to iGPU output and boot order is Auto/dGPU. Current Lucid implementation on this Gigabyte board is poor. The system forced you to always boot from iGPU first. It errored out if booted from dGPU, even after successful MVP install. Someone at Gigabyte needs to look at this again. The correct implementation should follow what worked on Luvid Virtu & Z68 board. Why is that so difficult?


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvista*
> 
> Initial thoughts on Lucid Virtu MVP: sucks big time how you have to connect equipment to get the drivers to install! Does anyone else have this bad experience? Don't they already have a year of Virtu experience on SNB!


I'm just not a fan of the software. I've seen relatively no performance increases in the games I play. While many of the board manufacturers are trying to market it as a selling point, I'd highly advise that no one buy a Z77 board simply for Lucid MVP. It just isn't worth the relatively small overall gains.


----------



## DBEAU

I've been very skeptical of Virtu MVP and I'm not sure I'm even going to bother with it. It seems like more trouble than it's worth. I'll probably end up experimenting with it when I'm bored but idk. It seems like a lot of marketing BS.

Anyway, I ordered my UD5H which I will pair with a 2600k. I also ordered a XSPC rasa kit so I'll be stepping into water cooling for the first time. Hopefully things go smoothly.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Yea it all works ok. Just worried a little about the USB surge issue. Never seen that before.


Do you have installed:

Intel® Management Engine Interface(MEI) Driver 8.x.x.xxxx
Intel® INF Driver 9.3.x.xxxx

and latest Intel driver (1.0.4.225) for USB?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvista*
> 
> On Asus Z68, Lucid Virtu can be installed w/o monitor connected to iGPU output and boot order is Auto/dGPU. Current Lucid implementation on this Gigabyte board is poor. The system forced you to always boot from iGPU first. It errored out if booted from dGPU, even after successful MVP install. Someone at Gigabyte needs to look at this again. The correct implementation should follow what worked on Luvid Virtu & Z68 board. Why is that so difficult?


that is how you have to install it on all systems man, it isn't he hardware, more the software which requires it. The reason is that to use MVP with hyperperformacne it has to be setup that way.

BTW BIOS with Cpu PLL Overvoltage option so you guys can disable will be available soon.

Also with 3770K and 3570K you can resume from S3 sleep b/c Intel fixed the microcode so its easy to do, however Intel didn't bother fixing it for the prior gen, but you should be able to do 4.5ghz or so without it enabled on SB.

i really don't understand how its trouble, the orignial Licud Virtu needed the same configuration.


----------



## Clockster

Ok so after the whole boot loop issue ect, I have now decided to wait for Ivy Bridge cpu's to arrive.
Quick question, I am sure some of you guys have gotten your hands on some Ivy cpu's. What I need to know..Is the 3570K a lot better than the 2500K or only slightly?


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockster*
> 
> What I need to know..Is the 3570K a lot better than the 2500K or only slightly?


3570K is ~ 7% faster than 2500K, @ the same clocks for example both @ 4.5GHz the difference would be even less, probably ~ 5%..

On the other hand iGPU HD4000 on the 3570K is ~ 40% faster than iGPU on 2500K..

CHEERS..


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockster*
> 
> Ok so after the whole boot loop issue ect, I have now decided to wait for Ivy Bridge cpu's to arrive.
> Quick question, I am sure some of you guys have gotten your hands on some Ivy cpu's. What I need to know..Is the 3570K a lot better than the 2500K or only slightly?


I haven't had any boot looping issues since I updated the BIOS to F6i, and I'm currently using an i5 2500k.


----------



## craney

Afternoon all

Just been having a look round my new Gigabyte Z77X-D3H bios and i came across this under the PC health status "PCH temperature 56c" I have never seen this before on my other boards but the 56c it was reporting on did make me wonder what the hell is it? My CPU temp according to the bios was 26c and the motherboard temp was showing 30c. On my desktop core temp was showing my CPU at 26c stock speed at idle and my 7850 was at 28c.

Any idea what this PCH temperature is?

Cheers guys

Liam


----------



## Sin0822

PCh is the chipset, don't worry about it, it tends to run hot on these boards but makes no difference overall

Yea there should be no boot loop after BIOS F6I for the UD5H and the same BIOS release time for all other boards. Poeple don't listen or trust, but FYi if you still do have a boot loop, then something else is wrong and its not the board.


----------



## Clockster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> PCh is the chipset, don't worry about it, it tends to run hot on these boards but makes no difference overall
> Yea there should be no boot loop after BIOS F6I for the UD5H and the same BIOS release time for all other boards. Poeple don't listen or trust, but FYi if you still do have a boot loop, then something else is wrong and its not the board.


Mine are def board issues. I have spoken to the supplier and they will be swapping them out 1st thing tomorrow morning.
I've had the exact same experience with a Asus P67 board...so it seems the boot loop from Sandy remains. Maybe not as frequent as it was but it still seems to be there.


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> PCh is the chipset, don't worry about it, it tends to run hot on these boards but makes no difference overall
> Yea there should be no boot loop after BIOS F6I for the UD5H and the same BIOS release time for all other boards. Poeple don't listen or trust, but FYi if you still do have a boot loop, then something else is wrong and its not the board.


Can you explain what a boot loop is? I think I still have this on my setup. Thanks!


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I will be getting UD5H to pair it up with my 2500K. Will i have any problem? What is this talk about boot loops and sleep, PLL Overvoltage?


----------



## Sin0822

Okay there are no boot loops like there were on Z68, if you have a boot loop like Z68 did then you would be so annoyed that you would know exactly what it is.

With BIOS F6I and later there was an issue just with the 2600K, not 2500K, where the board would turn on and off like 3 to 7 times and the boot right up like nothing happened with your OC present, that still isn't' a boot loop like z68.
A boot loop like from the Z68 boards would results in the board turning on all off, over and over, and over over and over and over and over, and never ending, until you unpluged the PSU, took out the battery, and reset the CMOS and then you might have been able to get back into the BIOS. With Z77 this boot loop doesn't exist, the only loop that existed is one that I described that happens once every some number of boots, but which has since been fixed. If you still have an issues like the one I described for these boards, then i would check your memory or your PSU. Even the way you mount your CPU and cooler has an impact.

There curerntly is an issue and has always been an issue where Sandy bridge CPUs cannot handle recovery from sleep when CPU PLL overvoltage is enabled, currently on these boards PLL overvoltage is enabled when you OC any OC. However GB will introduce a BIOS son with the option to disable PLl overvoltage. The reason they didn't do this is because Ivy Bridge *can* recover from sleep with pl overvltage enabled.

If you have issues recovering from sleep when you OC or even when you think you aren't OCing that issue is separate. BIOS F6I had some improvements to recovery from sleep, but it still doesn't fix the issues with ppl OV and sandy sleep, so when a future BIOS comes out you can disable pll overvoltage to recover form sleep while OCing. .If you have Ivy Bridge once again you have no issues as Intel fixed the issue with it.

Now if you are having odd issues after flashing to F6I or whatever the latest beta is on tweaktown or hwbot forums for your board, please reflash the BIOS again, then restart, then go into the BIOS and load optimized defaults and restart. If you are still having issues you need to check your memory, memory is the number one cause of issues with sandy bridge and ivy bridge platforms, DDR3 has been around for a very long time, and there are a lot of kits that just wont work so well with this platform.

ALSO when putting memory into your slots, please use the last slot(the one furthest form the CPU) first, then skit a slot and put it int he slot after that. So you don't put memory into the slots closest to the board.

Also After BIOS flash you should fail to boot at least once on the first boot up attempt. BTW when you shut down or restart the board, and the board fully shuts down and then starts up, that isn't a boot loop, that is a full shutdown.

if you do have a "boot loop" and you are sure it isn't because of your OC skills, please describes what happens with POST codes, i mean you have a UD5H or UD3H you have a post code display that can tell a lot about what is happening.

BTW when you OC AT ALL it is normal for your board to cycle 1-2 times, this is GIGABYTE's OC failure checking the overclock to make sure it can boot before it POSTs.


----------



## fasty

Great summary thanks Sin0822. Let's hope Gigabyte don't abandon those of us still using Sandybridge CPU!


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Okay there are no boot loops like there were on Z68, if you have a boot loop like Z68 did then you would be so annoyed that you would know exactly what it is.
> With BIOS F6I and later there was an issue just with the 2600K, not 2500K, where the board would turn on and off like 3 to 7 times and the boot right up like nothing happened with your OC present, that still isn't' a boot loop like z68.
> A boot loop like from the Z68 boards would results in the board turning on all off, over and over, and over over and over and over and over, and never ending, until you unpluged the PSU, took out the battery, and reset the CMOS and then you might have been able to get back into the BIOS. With Z77 this boot loop doesn't exist, the only loop that existed is one that I described that happens once every some number of boots, but which has since been fixed. If you still have an issues like the one I described for these boards, then i would check your memory or your PSU. Even the way you mount your CPU and cooler has an impact.
> There curerntly is an issue and has always been an issue where Sandy bridge CPUs cannot handle recovery from sleep when CPU PLL overvoltage is enabled, currently on these boards PLL overvoltage is enabled when you OC any OC. However GB will introduce a BIOS son with the option to disable PLl overvoltage. The reason they didn't do this is because Ivy Bridge *can* recover from sleep with pl overvltage enabled.
> If you have issues recovering from sleep when you OC or even when you think you aren't OCing that issue is separate. BIOS F6I had some improvements to recovery from sleep, but it still doesn't fix the issues with ppl OV and sandy sleep, so when a future BIOS comes out you can disable pll overvoltage to recover form sleep while OCing. .If you have Ivy Bridge once again you have no issues as Intel fixed the issue with it.
> Now if you are having odd issues after flashing to F6I or whatever the latest beta is on tweaktown or hwbot forums for your board, please reflash the BIOS again, then restart, then go into the BIOS and load optimized defaults and restart. If you are still having issues you need to check your memory, memory is the number one cause of issues with sandy bridge and ivy bridge platforms, DDR3 has been around for a very long time, and there are a lot of kits that just wont work so well with this platform.
> ALSO when putting memory into your slots, please use the last slot(the one furthest form the CPU) first, then skit a slot and put it int he slot after that. So you don't put memory into the slots closest to the board.
> Also After BIOS flash you should fail to boot at least once on the first boot up attempt. BTW when you shut down or restart the board, and the board fully shuts down and then starts up, that isn't a boot loop, that is a full shutdown.
> if you do have a "boot loop" and you are sure it isn't because of your OC skills, please describes what happens with POST codes, i mean you have a UD5H or UD3H you have a post code display that can tell a lot about what is happening.
> BTW when you OC AT ALL it is normal for your board to cycle 1-2 times, this is GIGABYTE's OC failure checking the overclock to make sure it can boot before it POSTs.


Yeah that really helped. With my Current OC with PLL OV ON i tried once sleep which i never use and PC started to boot-loop. I thought it was a Gigabyte thing.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Do you have installed:
> Intel® Management Engine Interface(MEI) Driver 8.x.x.xxxx
> Intel® INF Driver 9.3.x.xxxx
> and latest Intel driver (1.0.4.225) for USB?


I updated them when I read your post, Seems to have fixed the issue for the time being. Thanks


----------



## Dmac73

Add me to the list as soon as a 3770K releases on Newegg. Was going to go for the Sabertooth but at $42 cheaper, the UD5 is too nice to pass up.


----------



## Sin0822

If you till have odd issues please list what they and detail it, if you just say you have this issue then they can't reproduce it and try and solve it. memory used is also important.


----------



## Velathawen

Hi owners, I have a few questions for you guys!

1. If I use a big air cooler like D14/SA, will I be blocking use of the top PCI-E slot? I am looking to build a system to run SLI as well as use an Essence STX sound card. Going by Thermalright's website, the Silver Arrow is 147mm wide, which looks to be a pretty tight fit for the sound card up top.

2. The price difference between UD3H and UD5H is not huge (~$30 USD?), if we're looking for a basic yet solid board for moderate OC do we really need to go with the UD5H?

3. I read in the thread that there was a new bios released which fixes the boot loops experienced by systems running a 2600K. Approximately how long should we expect until retailers start getting boards that have this bios installed already?

Thanks as always =)

PS - With regards to bios issues, my previous experience with the 790FX and 890FX chipsets was that the first few bios are kinda rocky but within a month or two everything gets worked out. It sounds like they are even quicker with the fixes this time around.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> ...There curerntly is an issue and has always been an issue where Sandy bridge CPUs cannot handle recovery from sleep when CPU PLL overvoltage is enabled, currently on these boards PLL overvoltage is enabled when you OC any OC. However GB will introduce a BIOS son with the option to disable PLl overvoltage. The reason they didn't do this is because Ivy Bridge *can* recover from sleep with pl overvltage enabled...


Hey Sin0822,

Reading around some other forums, it looked like the "Sandy Bridge CPU sleep recovery with PLL overvoltage enabled" issue recently got fixed on some other boards (e.g. Asus).
This suggests to me that it's not actually a problem with the Sandy Bridge CPU but the BIOS or microcode (or else Asus just found a very clever work-around)
So... would it be too much to invite Gigabyte to fix the Sandy Bridge CPU sleep recover issue









- Steve


----------



## stasio

G1.Sniper 3 - F4g is out.


----------



## Vibe21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> G1.Sniper 3 - F4g is out.


Nice









Now tell me when this board will be available, been hunting for it since I have seen the previews.


----------



## Sin0822

yes i saw that on ROG boards they said they fixed it a little while ago, however how fixed I am not sure. ASUS uses some firmware on their ROG boards which can enable the forcing of a boot when the system doesn't think it should boot, that is most likely the reason they are able to boot. It was something a lot of people complained about, however with the setting disabled you should be able to go to 4.5 to even 5ghz with out it and your 24/7 OC prob isn't going to be affected.. CPU PLL OV raises max multi 3-4x higher than without, so most CPUs can do 5.2-5.8ghz max thus without you will still get a high OC. You really don't need to enable it for all 24/7 OCes. However the fact is that they will make it available and if you need it then you cn just disable it, ad you should be able to still OC to your 24/7 OC. That is all i can tell you.

Its a lot to invest into fixing an issue that can be dealt with by disabling pll overvoltage, the issue is that it is part of OC, which firstly voids their warranty. Second on all disabling cpu pll overvoltage has fixed the issue for almost everyone I have told to do this, and they just don't say my OC is too high that i need to enable the setting.


----------



## fasty

I agree Sin, the sleep "fix" did not look utterly conclusive.
I'm not looking for "competetive" overclock, so the PLL overvoltage probably shouldn't worry me too much. Would be nice to have manual enable/disable though.


----------



## Clockster

Ok update on my situation.
I was at suppliers this morning, both boards were tested and they agreed to swap it out, on a side note they have had msi z77 boards come back doing
the exact same thing, so it seems the boot loop issue from sandy is still very much alive. They have had 4 board come back so far, 2 of them my gigabyte boards
and 2 of them msi z77 gd65's/


----------



## Sin0822

lol perhaps your CPU just hates you?????

I honestly had the lop and then i flash F6I and then had no loop.

There are a few beta's released, are you sure you used F6I? There really should be no looping other than right after you flash the BIOS and if you screw up and OC. Perhaps the board might shutdown fully and then start again if you restart once in a while. If you are setting an OC and then restart then the board should loop one or two times to check itself. A boot loop really implies that the board wont boot up and keeps going in circles.

BTW PLL Overvoltage is coming.

BTW clockster are you talking about looping after you are trying to recover from sleep?????
.

They will add PLL OV option soon.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> also this i just did too:


Hey great Gigabyte King*!* How is it going with that Sniper M3*?* Overall, how is it acting with the SB processor*?* I'm itching to pull the trigger on this fella...I just need more info about how is it & only you can tell me since you've had the pleasure to play with it.

_What's the verdict so far_*?* Is it worth $180*?*


----------



## Sin0822

i mean its fine after the latest BIOS update it fixed up the issues I had with the 2600K.

I oced the crap out of the board BTW:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?280517-Ivy-Bridge-Overclocking-Guide-(Extreme-LN2-Section-Guide-Included)

Look at the bottom, my review of the board is coming, it OCes much higher than that it can do 6.27ghz wprime 1024 and 6.6ghz validation all with that stupid 4-pin power connector hahahahaha.

GB will add CPu PLl Overvoltage disable option to it soon to fix the S3 sleep issue.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i mean its fine after the latest BIOS update it fixed up the issues I had with the 2600K.


Any problems when using a 2500k*?*

BTW...Thanks for the quick response


----------



## Sin0822

2500K users never had the issues that the 2600K users had for some reason, must have been a microcode thing. Currently you cannot disable CPu PLL OV, which means you cannot OC and recover from S3 sleep with sandy bridge CPU, but that will change very soon.


----------



## ChrisB17

I still am in shock of how damn fast this board boots. WOW.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> I still am in shock of how damn fast this board boots. WOW.


Yeah, right? It is awesome. If I could just get some decent cooling going. This Zalman liquid cooler doesn't seem to be as good as my NH-D14.


----------



## ChrisB17

I was wondering also which ethernet port uses the INTEL nic? Top or bottom one?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yeah, right? It is awesome. If I could just get some decent cooling going. This Zalman liquid cooler doesn't seem to be as good as my NH-D14.


try plugging the pump into a steady 12v output.

I think top, its int he manual: http://download.gigabyte.asia/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-z77x-ud5h_e.pdf

Atheros is LAN 1 and the LAN 1 is on the bottom if the board is in a case.


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> I was wondering also which ethernet port uses the INTEL nic? Top or bottom one?


Top one.


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> I still am in shock of how damn fast this board boots. WOW.


+1


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> 2500K users never had the issues that the 2600K users had for some reason, must have been a microcode thing. Currently you cannot disable CPu PLL OV, which means you cannot OC and recover from S3 sleep with sandy bridge CPU, but that will change very soon.


maybe im not using S3 sleep, but whatever sleep windows 7 is using seems to work fine under F6h, I havn't even upgraded to 6i yet as I have been to busy to mess with it at all, and I also havn't had time to figure out if my BIOS recovery problems are still there (the alt+f10 to try and load my backup bios since my main wont flash properly with q-flash). I know I have S3 sleep disabled in the BIOS, but what is different about S3 than whatever standard sleep is (which im pretty sure working for me on my 2600k)


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> try plugging the pump into a steady 12v output.
> I think top, its int he manual: http://download.gigabyte.asia/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-z77x-ud5h_e.pdf
> Atheros is LAN 1 and the LAN 1 is on the bottom if the board is in a case.


Whether plugged into Sys_3 (top) or Sys_4 (bottom) it shows the same "speed" (1454 rpm) in all monitoring utils including EasyTune. In other words as far as I can tell it's running wide open all the time.
Plus I'm running push/pull out the back with 2 Cougar Vortex pwm fans plugged into the cpu fan header. Spent hours today testing all fan in/out combos for maximum cooling and found the best for my setup, and tried pulling fresh air in with the cpu fans which actually made it worse. So I don't really see a fix for this, although I'm certainly open to more suggestions. Can't afford to buy anymore "stuff" and still get the 3770K.


----------



## Sin0822

ahh i personally just use the fan they provided and just let it sit in open air. it works better than my air coolers. The thing is the best air cooling is going to be as good as these watercooling kits, they isn't some magic in them.

I do however plug into the 12v as the fan ports, they don't usually punch out all 12v as it is a SMART fan port.


----------



## mandrix

Oh, so you're coming from the power supply and not using a fan port?
What I do when running IBT, P95 etc is disable the controls in the BIOS, so all fans run wide open.

Another thing if someone can tell me how much current these fan headers are rated for I would like to know.


----------



## Sin0822

i can measure it, but probably maybe 0.3 or 0.5 A per header I think. Yea i use the PSU direct.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i can measure it, but probably maybe 0.3 or 0.5 A per header I think. Yea i use the PSU direct.


Uh Oh. Until I hear back from Gigabyte I guess I shouldn't be running both cpu fans off the cpu fan header. I think the fans I'm using are rated about .34A each which has always seemed safe on Gigabyte boards in the past.
Would be nice if Gigabyte include 2 cpu fan headers, but oh well at least this board has 4 system fan headers.


----------



## Sin0822

i will ask them, but i have no idea how much per fan port. i know people have asked, maybe search google and see?


----------



## KingT

deleted..


----------



## JollyMan

Hey guys!

I am new to OC.net. I have read through the majority of this thread, realizing there are issues (which seem to be solved pretty quickly with the help of Sin) I have decided to pull the trigger on the UD5H and 3570k. I havent been in the CPU/Mobo tech game since i bought my Q9450/780i system 3 years ago, so this is a bit new to me, especially the OCing aspect. I do plan on OCing, looking for a 24/7 setting, as well as a max OC just to see what i can achieve. I will also be running WC loop with it. Anyway, with that said, I was wondering what the best RAM would be to run with this system? It may be a noob question, but like i said been out of the game for a bit. I have actually already ordered the mobo and RAm just waiting on the release of the processor, as i am sure everyone else is. The RAM i ordered is a set of G.Skill Ripjaws X ddr3-1600(16GB), mainly because i had read that it was good ram, but is this the best ram to run with the system? I may decide to OC the ram a bit, but its not my main concern. Anyway, this seems like a pretty basic setup. Any suggestions would be great. I can always return the memory.

Thanks

JollyMan


----------



## JollyMan

Also, and I think I saw this question asked earlier, as far as fan control in the bios goes, will i be able to control individual fan speeds? This is more for the 120x2 radiator, to control noise and temps without having to purchase a fan controller. My case (CM stacker 830) doesnt have the room for it. Thanks again!


----------



## stasio

G1.Sniper 3 - F4
GA-Z77X-UD5H - F6
GA-Z77X-UD3H - F8
GA-Z77X-D3H - F7
GA-Z77-D3H - F12
GA-Z77M-D3H - F6
GA-Z77MX-D3H - F10

is out on TT forum.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Also, and I think I saw this question asked earlier, as far as fan control in the bios goes, will i be able to control individual fan speeds? This is more for the 120x2 radiator, to control noise and temps without having to purchase a fan controller. My case (CM stacker 830) doesnt have the room for it. Thanks again!


you will be able to control the system fans all together and the CPU fan separately.

BTw someone want to try F6 and see if they add pll OV change?

You should be fine with the Z77X-UD5H, IMO it is a great board, i don't think we have anyone in here with Ivy and UD5H yet but me? right?


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BTw someone want to try F6 and see if they add pll OV change?


Ill be home in 3 hours and try it! I really hope its there, although my sleep issues have been fine since 6h, and still work in 6i. When I try F6, do i want pll OV on or off for my 2600k?


----------



## r0ach

How do I achieve the legendary, single digit, Gigabyte DPC latency with this board? I've turned off HPET, the Atheros LAN, the marvell SATA controllers, integrated sound and GPU, and my DPC is still 40-50. I've gotten 30 DPC latency with HPET still turned on with an Asus Sabertooth 55i. How do I get single digits with this board?


----------



## Sin0822

you turn off easytune6 and other GB apps.


----------



## WileyM

Great resource here! Re: UDH5, i7-2600K, DDR3-1600 MHz ... Does it work?

I've already committed to the i7-2600K, and I'm on the fence about the UDH5 with concerns about *Gigabyte's spec that 1600 MHz memory will only work with Ivy Bridge*.

Admittedly, I'm green as grass about OC'ing, but I'm reading as much as I can, as fast as I can.

Does anyone know if this combination will work out of the box (with the appropriate bios update applied), or not? - UDH5, i7-2600K, DDR3-1600 MHz

Will the memory work with some tweaking or should I lower my expectations to 1333 MHz?

Again, thanks so much to everyone participating in this support thread and club. Good Stuff!

Wiley
Oregon, USA


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WileyM*
> 
> Great resource here! Re: UDH5, i7-2600K, DDR3-1600 MHz ... Does it work?
> I've already committed to the i7-2600K, and I'm on the fence about the UDH5 with concerns about *Gigabyte's spec that 1600 MHz memory will only work with Ivy Bridge*.
> Admittedly, I'm green as grass about OC'ing, but I'm reading as much as I can, as fast as I can.
> Does anyone know if this combination will work out of the box (with the appropriate bios update applied), or not? - UDH5, i7-2600K, DDR3-1600 MHz
> Will the memory work with some tweaking or should I lower my expectations to 1333 MHz?
> Again, thanks so much to everyone participating in this support thread and club. Good Stuff!
> Wiley
> Oregon, USA


With every BIOS I have used (starting from F5) 1600 is no problem at all. Just go in there and hit the xmp profile under the RAM settings and it will put a 16x multi in there for you as well as all the timings and voltages.


----------



## Sin0822

dude that is because Ivy Bridge is speced to run 1600mhz at stock, Sandy bridge is not, therefor anything above 1333mhz for sandy bridge is considered OC, however if a board can't do 160mhz then it shouldn't be sold. IMC is int he CPU not the motherboard, the motherboard can only list when intel tells them to for memory speeds. The UD5H supports upto 3200mhz with straight multiplier of 32.00x, but they can't say that it does 3200mhz first because no one can use that multiplier and secondly because intel supports max OC for Ivy of only 2666.

update your BIOS to F6, it is VERY simple and i can walk you through it, and everything will be fine.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

NO new PLL option in F6 that I can see...


----------



## DBEAU

I just got all my new toys in the mail today. I've been thumbing through the manual for my UD5H while at work and noticed there is a power port for "chipset heatsink LED's". Are there LED's in the headsinks? I haven't seen any mention of this until I saw it in the manual so naturally i'm intrigued. Can anyone clarify this for me.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you turn off easytune6 and other GB apps.


Don't have any of those installed. I turned off all the C states and turbo modes/etc and have 17DPC while idle now. I still think it should be able to go lower. Also, for some reason after flashing to F6i, my USB stick is no longer recognized in the bios so I can't upgrade the bios again, have to figure out what setting is messing things up.


----------



## Sin0822

There are no LEDs, but on some boards there is a small connector labeled HP Power, it provides like a 12v output, but IDk why it is there, there are no LEDs. perhaps it was something they originally planned and forgot to remove? I am not sure.

did you load optimized defaults after you flashed? Also you should try re-flashing the BIOS.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WileyM*
> 
> Great resource here! Re: UDH5, i7-2600K, DDR3-1600 MHz ... Does it work?
> I've already committed to the i7-2600K, and I'm on the fence about the UDH5 with concerns about *Gigabyte's spec that 1600 MHz memory will only work with Ivy Bridge*.
> Admittedly, I'm green as grass about OC'ing, but I'm reading as much as I can, as fast as I can.
> Does anyone know if this combination will work out of the box (with the appropriate bios update applied), or not? - UDH5, i7-2600K, DDR3-1600 MHz
> Will the memory work with some tweaking or should I lower my expectations to 1333 MHz?
> Again, thanks so much to everyone participating in this support thread and club. Good Stuff!
> Wiley
> Oregon, USA


I'm running some old Samsung memory (MV-3V4G3D/US) at 2133, 1.5v. Got some G Skill Trident 2400 on the way....


----------



## craney

Hi guys

I seem to be having a strange issue with my new z77x-d3h board where it will just randomly on a reboot inform me of a boot failure. I have not overclocked anything, everything is on auto voltage the only thing i changed was the memory to the xmp profile so it ran at its full 1600mhz speed. I am going to run memtest just to rule out any issue with my memory which is 8gb corsair arctic white low profile. The strange thing is when the message appears i click to go into the bios and i dont change anything and press f10 and then it will boot into windows fine even though it has the same settings it told me produced a boot failure.

Any ideas to why this might be? CPU temps are idle at 25c, motherboard temps 30c and PCH showing 48c so i dont think anything is overheating. The CPU vcore is auto like everything else with all the downclocking etc on enabled

Hope someone can help

Cheers

Liam


----------



## r0ach

Had to use @bios to flash from F6i to F6 in Windows. Now my USB stick is recognized in the bios again. Seems like F6i wasn't too good of a bios.


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> Hi guys
> I seem to be having a strange issue with my new z77x-d3h board where it will just randomly on a reboot inform me of a boot failure. I have not overclocked anything, everything is on auto voltage the only thing i changed was the memory to the xmp profile so it ran at its full 1600mhz speed. I am going to run memtest just to rule out any issue with my memory which is 8gb corsair arctic white low profile. The strange thing is when the message appears i click to go into the bios and i dont change anything and press f10 and then it will boot into windows fine even though it has the same settings it told me produced a boot failure.
> Any ideas to why this might be? CPU temps are idle at 25c, motherboard temps 30c and PCH showing 48c so i dont think anything is overheating. The CPU vcore is auto like everything else with all the downclocking etc on enabled
> Hope someone can help
> Cheers
> Liam


I have been experiencing the same thing. I have my 2600k running @ 5050MHz (101.0 x 50), ran P95 for 12 hours stable, then on my next reboot I got a 'boot failure'... clearly if i can run P95 blend for 12 hours I shouldn't be getting a boot failure.

Unfortunately, like you, I do not have a solution to this issue. We'll have to wait for a new bios update perhaps..


----------



## smokemeakipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> Hi guys
> I seem to be having a strange issue with my new z77x-d3h board where it will just randomly on a reboot inform me of a boot failure. I have not overclocked anything, everything is on auto voltage the only thing i changed was the memory to the xmp profile so it ran at its full 1600mhz speed. I am going to run memtest just to rule out any issue with my memory which is 8gb corsair arctic white low profile. The strange thing is when the message appears i click to go into the bios and i dont change anything and press f10 and then it will boot into windows fine even though it has the same settings it told me produced a boot failure.
> Any ideas to why this might be? CPU temps are idle at 25c, motherboard temps 30c and PCH showing 48c so i dont think anything is overheating. The CPU vcore is auto like everything else with all the downclocking etc on enabled
> Hope someone can help
> Cheers
> Liam


Hi Liam,
I too had the boot error. With me it would happen every 2nd restart in windows.
Flashing the latest BIOS from TT help. No problem with the BIOS (F7) yet.

Regards.


----------



## Sin0822

Yes Liam, that was the issue every 2nd restart and it should be fixed by latest BIOS update.

It only occurs with 2600K, and they fixed it.

Michael when it says boot failure what exactly does it say? What is your current speed? Can you try flashing to the latest BIOS which came out today, it is F6.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Had to use @bios to flash from F6i to F6 in Windows. Now my USB stick is recognized in the bios again. Seems like F6i wasn't too good of a bios.


Just updated to BIOS F6; still can't see my USB stick from QFlash; I don't know what I am doing wrong.
Apart from that, F6 looks OK so far with my 2500K


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Yes Liam, that was the issue every 2nd restart and it should be fixed by latest BIOS update.
> It only occurs with 2600K, and they fixed it.
> Michael when it says boot failure what exactly does it say? What is your current speed? Can you try flashing to the latest BIOS which came out today, it is F6.


It says something like "there has been a boot failure: 1. load optimized defaults and boot, 2. load optimized defaults and reboot, 3. enter bios"

im currently running at 5050 MHz, 101 BCLK and 50x multi

yeah i just updated and so far so good... we'll see how it holds up.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> Just updated to BIOS F6; still can't see my USB stick from QFlash; I don't know what I am doing wrong.
> Apart from that, F6 looks OK so far with my 2500K


I was really not too impressed with this motherboard at first, after I flashed to "F6", things are starting to look good. The motherboard didn't even properly down clock my 2500k with any BIOS before this one with all motherboard defaults loaded. Now it clocks down to 1600 mhz instead of bouncing up and down between 3300-3400 at idle. My Steelseries Sensei mouse also felt "off" with every BIOS before this, now it feels mostly identical to my previous board (Asus 55i Sabertooth w/ i5-760). This motherboard was clearly not capable of supporting Sandy Bridge CPU's whatsoever with the BIOS it shipped with. Hopefully things will be smooth from here on out.

There's a few things I can't figure out still. This board has a VIA and Intel, integrated USB3 controller, yet I don't see any way to disable the VIA one in the BIOS? If i just want to run a bare bones system with lowest DPC possible, what other stuff can I disable besides the following?:

Marvel Sata 3 controller x 2
Atheros LAN
Integrated Sound
Integrated GPU
HPET

I also found a firmware update for the integrated VIA USB3, haven't installed yet:

VL810 Superspeed USB Hub Controller Firmware 0.95 - Released Mar 23, 2012

FW - Windows Utility that upgrades the firmware used by the VL810 Superspeed USB Hub Controller. (32-bit / 64-bit Compatible)

http://www.via-labs.com/en/downloads/firmware/Usb3HubFWUpgrade_Setup_V0.41_VL810_VL811_formal.zip

Change log for VL810 firmwares.

http://www.via-labs.com/en/downloads/documents/VL810-Firmware-V9.5-Release-Note.pdf


----------



## Sin0822

you have a UD5H or UD3H?

on the UD5H the VIA isn't a controller it is a hub, it turns 1 USb 3.0 port into 4, on the UD3H it is a controller and the board uses one to provide 4 ports on the back of the UD3H, that is why 4 of the USb 3.0 ports wont work in windows without drivers, only 2 that are Intel will. If you have the UD5H i would disable the Atheros if you don't use it. Probably turn on some power saving features. I think UD5H has 1394A you can disable that too, idk why they still put that on motherboards. Also the audio on the UD5H has two line drivers, but you can't mess with them.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I think UD5H has 1394A you can disable that too, idk why they still put that on motherboards.


It's not commonly used by most consumers, but it's still the interface of choice for portable multichannel audio interfaces. Just to give you an idea of how many there are, go here or here.

I have an RME Fireface 800 that I use with my for recording and mastering. Having firewire on both my P67 UD7* and my laptop allows me to use the Fireface at home or at another location with ease. If I didn't need that portability, I would probably invest in a PCIe setup since it would be more flexible/expandable.

Until recently Firewire was able to achieve better latencies, bandwidth, and CPU usage than USB2. Some new interfaces have been able to achieve low enough latencies on USB2 to allow many I/O channels, but there aren't very many. Maybe USB3 has improved a lot in those areas, but I haven't seen any compatible interfaces yet.

*NOTE: The P67 UD7 has a TI 1394 controller which is usually preferred over VIA controllers. Some VIA controllers have had major compatibility problems with some audio interfaces. It's unfortunate that the VIA chips are much more common when integrated onto motherboards, but PCIe 1394 cards with TI controllers are available if necessary.


----------



## r0ach

My UD5h, F6 BIOS, DPC results after disabling Atheros LAN, integrated GPU, integrated sound, Marvell Sata controllers, and HPET with all other settings on default:



This DPC number for F6 BIOS is improved over F6i, but then after a while, I started noticing huge spikes. I'm currently trying to track down the cause of these spikes then will post what it is. I believe it's most likely BIOS related and needs a fix because I have a fresh Windows install with nothing exotic on my system (570gtx, Audigy 2ZS, Steelseries Sensei Mouse, OCZ Agilty SATA2, Samsung SATA2 HD, both on Intel SATA2 ports).

Also, right after I flashed to F6 while still having all bios settings on default, I clicked on a youtube video and the system froze while watching a video without flash even installed on Chromium browser (Chromium not Chrome). I've never had a crash like this before on my Asus 55i Sabertooth + i5-760 install and this Gigabyte build uses all the same parts except motherboard and CPU, so I think it might be a BIOS problem that caused that crash too.


----------



## JollyMan

THis is a bit off topic, but i Just ordered an msi 580 for my 3570k and ud5h, and the day after i get it in the mail it gets discontinued! I found this out cause i went online to order another and they are not available. ***? So now newegg wants to charge a $60 restocking fee, even though the card hasnt even been used? Ridiculous...anyone know a way around this? Could i return it as defective? Feel free to delete this if you feel it shouldnt be in here...which it probably shouldnt...sorry.


----------



## stasio

New GA-Z77X-UD5H - F6 dated 26.April on line.

(Yesterday F6 -OC problem)


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> My UD5h, F6 BIOS, DPC results after disabling Atheros LAN, integrated GPU, integrated sound, Marvell Sata controllers, and HPET with all other settings on default:


Have you tried LatencyMon? It will show exactly which process is causing the DPC spikes.

When I first built my main rig (P67A-UD7), I had really inconsistent DPC latency problems. Sometimes it was smooth sailing and other times it would be max red bars non-stop. I finally found out that it was my BD drive that was causing problems. If there was no disk in the drive, then the DPC latencies shot through the roof. It turns out that there was some sort of incompatibility between that drive and the Intel SATA 6Gb/s ports. I moved the drive to one of the SATA 3Gb/s ports and the problem went away completely. Maybe the drive needs a firmware update, but I haven't bothered looking.

If you have an optical drive on one of the SATA 6Gb/s ports try moving it to a 3 Gb/s port. Also try plugging USB devices into different ports to see if the problem goes away. I've also seen some people recommend disabling C3/C6 in BIOS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> THis is a bit off topic, but i Just ordered an msi 580 for my 3570k and ud5h, and the day after i get it in the mail it gets discontinued! I found this out cause i went online to order another and they are not available. ***? So now newegg wants to charge a $60 restocking fee, even though the card hasnt even been used? Ridiculous...anyone know a way around this? Could i return it as defective? Feel free to delete this if you feel it shouldnt be in here...which it probably shouldnt...sorry.


Have you looked in our Marketplace? You might find a good deal there on a used 580 to match yours.


----------



## r0ach

Here's the results of my DPC spike investigation. Test was done solely while browsing web pages on desktop with F6 BIOS. I had no DPC spike issues with my previous i5-760 build and I used all the same parts from it for this UD5h + 2500k, just changed the motherboard and CPU.



1st Analysis with Xperf (Windows Performance Analysis Tools):

DPC CPU Usage Summary Table:


Interrupt CPU Usage Summary Table


2nd Analysis with LatencyMon:



Hardware

Gigabyte Z77 UD5H w/ 2500k CPU
MSI 570 GTX Reference card
Audigy 2 ZS PCI sound card
Steelseries Sensei mouse @ 1000hz plugged into USB 2.0 port on back of case (with Steelseries Engine software installed)
Logitech K120 Keyboard plugged into USB 2.0 port on back of case
OCZ Agility gen1 plugged into Intel's first Sata 2 port
Samsung HD501LJ 500g mechanical HD plugged into Intel's 2nd Sata 2 port


----------



## craney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> Hi guys
> I seem to be having a strange issue with my new z77x-d3h board where it will just randomly on a reboot inform me of a boot failure. I have not overclocked anything, everything is on auto voltage the only thing i changed was the memory to the xmp profile so it ran at its full 1600mhz speed. I am going to run memtest just to rule out any issue with my memory which is 8gb corsair arctic white low profile. The strange thing is when the message appears i click to go into the bios and i dont change anything and press f10 and then it will boot into windows fine even though it has the same settings it told me produced a boot failure.
> Any ideas to why this might be? CPU temps are idle at 25c, motherboard temps 30c and PCH showing 48c so i dont think anything is overheating. The CPU vcore is auto like everything else with all the downclocking etc on enabled
> Hope someone can help
> Cheers
> Liam


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> I have been experiencing the same thing. I have my 2600k running @ 5050MHz (101.0 x 50), ran P95 for 12 hours stable, then on my next reboot I got a 'boot failure'... clearly if i can run P95 blend for 12 hours I shouldn't be getting a boot failure.
> Unfortunately, like you, I do not have a solution to this issue. We'll have to wait for a new bios update perhaps..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokemeakipper*
> 
> Hi Liam,
> I too had the boot error. With me it would happen every 2nd restart in windows.
> Flashing the latest BIOS from TT help. No problem with the BIOS (F7) yet.
> Regards.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Yes Liam, that was the issue every 2nd restart and it should be fixed by latest BIOS update.
> It only occurs with 2600K, and they fixed it.
> Michael when it says boot failure what exactly does it say? What is your current speed? Can you try flashing to the latest BIOS which came out today, it is F6.


Hi guys thanks alot for the feedback really appreciate it, dont know if i mentioned its a i5 2500k im using on my board, i have checked the gigabyte site but i can only see bios F6 on there? is that still the latest for the z77x-d3h model? As for the error message itself when it comes up normally on a 2nd restart like you mention the speed its showing the cpu as is 3.5ghz. I have not overclocked it but i guess it must be from the core boost perhaps which is enabled i believe?

I am going to look at overclocking my 2500k soon would it be best to disable the core boost do you think? I was thinking of leaving the intel speed step things enabled so it downclocks at idle is that ok do you think?

Thanks again guys

Liam


----------



## stasio

For Z77X-D3H use latest F7 or F7h BIOS.


----------



## craney

Thanks for that stasio, where can i actually download this bios from mate?


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> Thanks for that stasio, where can i actually download this bios from mate?


Look at his sig


----------



## craney

cool cheers mate didnt see that


----------



## Snakes

Hi. I have a question that I was hoping someone here could answer. I was planning to buy the UD5H motherboard and I wanted to use Gskill Ripjaws X 1600MHz RAM. I'm not sure yet whether I'm buying a Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge CPU. I've read that this board does not support ram at 1600MHz unless you're using an ivy bridge CPU. Is this correct? I don't understand why this would be the case but I'd like to know more before I commit to buying. Thanks.


----------



## craney

I have my corsair arctic white 1600mhz ram running at 1600mhz mate using the xmp profile with no problem on my i5 2500k so it will be fine









I am having a few issues setting a manual vcore on this z77x-d3h board would someone be able to help me out? I have set it to 1.25v in the bios with the cpu speed set to 4ghz and disabled turbo boost and all the downclocking utilities in the bios but when i am on my desktop the voltage according to core temp still keeps going up to 1.35 all the time. The processor is no longer downclocking as it did before but the voltage still seems to be changing a lot. Have a missed a setting somewhere? I have my ram on the xmp profile which has 1.35v programmed to it according to the bios but i left the voltage to auto and i think that is also running higher than it should at 1.5v!

Im going mad, this is my 1st intel chip so i am learning slowly









Hope someone can point me in the right direction

cheers guys

Liam


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> I have my corsair arctic white 1600mhz ram running at 1600mhz mate using the xmp profile with no problem on my i5 2500k so it will be fine


That's great to hear. I've been told that the manual for this board specifically states that you need the IB CPU for 1600 to work. I wonder why they would put that in the manual if it's not even true...

I just checked and the RAM I want does support XMP, I guess that's good. I only just learned what XMP is 2 minutes ago.


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Hi. I have a question that I was hoping someone here could answer. I was planning to buy the UD5H motherboard and I wanted to use Gskill Ripjaws X 1600MHz RAM. I'm not sure yet whether I'm buying a Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge CPU. I've read that this board does not support ram at 1600MHz unless you're using an ivy bridge CPU. Is this correct? I don't understand why this would be the case but I'd like to know more before I commit to buying. Thanks.


it means that only ive bridge CPU's officially support ddr3-1600, which is true, whereas sandy bridge CPU's only officially support ddr3-1333. It doesnt mean that you can't use ddr3-1600 with sandy bridge, it just means that anything over 1333 is technically an overclocked speed. As far as the new Z77 motherboards are concerned, you can overclock your RAM up to ddr3-2133 with a sandy bridge CPU, and ddr3-2600 + with an ivy bridge cpu.

In short:

SB + Z68 = max overclocked RAM multiplier of 21.33 (21.33 times 100MHz BCLK gives ddr3-2133)
SB + Z77 = max overclocked RAM multiplier of 21.33 (21.33 times 100MHz BCLK gives ddr3-2133)
IB +Z77 = depending on which MoBo you have, max overclocked RAM multiplier of 26.00 - 32.00 (times 100MHz BCLK gives ddr3-2600 all the way up to ddr3-3200)

SB memory controller only "officially" supports up to ddr3-1333, but you can go higher
IB memory controller only "officially" supports up to ddr3-1600, but you can go higher


----------



## DeXel

Sandy Bridge natively supports up to 1333Mhz RAM. Everything above is OC. That's about it, and you should be fine with G.Skill memory after change couple of things in UEFI.
*
michaelrw*, beat me....

I got UD5H too, love it







. Now, I need to survive until Sunday for 3570K...


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> I have my corsair arctic white 1600mhz ram running at 1600mhz mate using the xmp profile with no problem on my i5 2500k so it will be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am having a few issues setting a manual vcore on this z77x-d3h board would someone be able to help me out? I have set it to 1.25v in the bios with the cpu speed set to 4ghz and disabled turbo boost and all the downclocking utilities in the bios but when i am on my desktop the voltage according to core temp still keeps going up to 1.35 all the time. The processor is no longer downclocking as it did before but the voltage still seems to be changing a lot. Have a missed a setting somewhere? I have my ram on the xmp profile which has 1.35v programmed to it according to the bios but i left the voltage to auto and i think that is also running higher than it should at 1.5v!
> Im going mad, this is my 1st intel chip so i am learning slowly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope someone can point me in the right direction
> cheers guys
> Liam


have you tried changing the VCore Load Line Calibration setting?


----------



## Snakes

Okay, so the Gigabyte manual is just being cautious and saying 1600MHz not officially supported, as opposed to saying it's impossible. That's good to know. I haven't seen the manual personally, I probably should have downloaded it and had a look, maybe it's clearer than the second hand info I read. I'll probably buy the UD5H board and likely a 3570k but I wanted to see if I still had the option of using a 2500k on this with 1600MHz RAM. I've been using a Gigabyte EP45-UD3P since 2008 and been really pleased with it. My friends keep telling me to only buy Asus but I'm not listening. Thanks for all the info, guys.


----------



## craney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> have you tried changing the VCore Load Line Calibration setting?


Hi matey i have not actually done that, i will have to have a look and see what settings it has for it. I think its set on normal which is the middle one if i looked at the right thing before. It states the higher the LLC highest being extreme that will keep it closest to what is set in the bios underload

I didint reliaze that SB only supported upto 1333mhz memory and using an xmp profile of 1600mhz would actually be overclocking


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> Just updated to BIOS F6; still can't see my USB stick from QFlash; I don't know what I am doing wrong.
> Apart from that, F6 looks OK so far with my 2500K


Make sure the stick is configured as a fat32 drive.

Also, I have had this problem on several motherboards of all makes. Just use other usb ports and one of them will work.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> when i am on my desktop the voltage according to core temp still keeps going up to 1.35 all the time. The processor is no longer downclocking as it did before but the voltage still seems to be changing a lot. Have a missed a setting somewhere?


I think Core Temp (like Real Temp) reports the VID. This is the voltage that the CPU requests from the motherboard based on the frequency and load that is is currently under. It is not the actual voltage that the motherboard is supplying to the CPU.

To read the actual Vcore, you need to use one of the many hardware monitoring programs like HWiNFO64 or HWMonitor (or use a voltmeter if your board has the probe points available).

CPU-z _should_ also report Vcore, but it sometimes reports Vtt on some Gigabyte boards. The latest beta version (64 or 32 bit) may have fixed the issue, but I haven't tried it yet.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> Make sure the stick is configured as a fat32 drive.
> Also, I have had this problem on several motherboards of all makes. Just use other usb ports and one of them will work.


Thanks for that tip, Electroneng.
Actually, I had read about formatting to FAT32.
When I just flashed to the "new" F6, I did a few things that made it work :
(1) I put the USB stick into one of the USB3 ports instead of a USB2 port
(2) I entered the BIOS setup first to "let the BIOS see the USB drive" in the list of drives, saved the settings and rebooted
(3) Now entered QFlash, and _voila_, the USB drive has appeared on its list.

- Steve


----------



## craney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I think Core Temp (like Real Temp) reports the VID. This is the voltage that the CPU requests from the motherboard based on the frequency and load that is is currently under. It is not the actual voltage that the motherboard is supplying to the CPU.
> To read the actual Vcore, you need to use one of the many hardware monitoring programs like HWiNFO64 or HWMonitor (or use a voltmeter if your board has the probe points available).
> CPU-z _should_ also report Vcore, but it sometimes reports Vtt on some Gigabyte boards. The latest beta version (64 or 32 bit) may have fixed the issue, but I haven't tried it yet.


Thanks for this mate, i have hwinfo and hwmonitor so i'll check them out as cpu-z only ever really seems to give a vcore of 1.088 or something around that mark which cant be the correct vcore


----------



## Evtron

Hey guys,

Just ordered my Z77 UD5H. I have a quick question on the PCI 3.0 lanes. Is the bandwidth deteremined per slot? As in #1 = 16x #2 = 8x #3 = 4x or is it determined on which ones are populated? My question is can I put my dual 680s in PCI Lanes 3.0 lanes 3&4 and still get x8/x8 ?

Thanks!


----------



## iMPLiCiT

I ordered this board yesterday. How is the audio everyone? I was going to go with ASUS but decided they were not worth the extra money this time around.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMPLiCiT*
> 
> I ordered this board yesterday. How is the audio everyone? I was going to go with ASUS but decided they were not worth the extra money this time around.


Best audio I've ever heard from a motherboard. Better than my previous Gigabyte Z68 board.
I'm using it to play .FLAC files through HiFi system, and it sounds good to me.


----------



## iMPLiCiT

Ahh I can't wait. Still running on a P5Q mobo with a Q6600... I assume the difference will be night and day for everything.


----------



## roxxphatcox

This was a pain in the FACE to install!

z77x udh3 (

Silly me tried to install both my videocards (2xhd6950) and all my ram ,
and the usb controller for the antec 920 watercooling.

Tried getting this to enter bios with my optoma hd67 pj, no dice.
Tried with my lg tv, nope.
Tried with my 6 yr old monitor ...

Long story short: removing both vidcards , removing the usb controller for the watercooling and 2 ramsticks
and using the VGA igp and my 6 yr old monitor.. We gotz b00t and bios

Got pretty cheeky and tried installing both my hd6950s after a fresh win7 install... did not even post.
installing 1x hd6950 and drivers in windows, then installing the second hd6950 , success

Then the RAM and USB controller for my watercooling.

Nothing made sense, this is my 24th pc-build and the most confusing to date.

If people get the a6 debug error on the motherboard (the led in the lower right corner)

Remove your vidcard and use the igp, set up the bios and load optimized defaults, install windows and then install vidcard.

Tomorrow I`ll try Oc`ing my 2500k, hoping for 5ghz , guessing the antec 920 will land on 4.6-7 in my room.

Good luck on installing ppl hope u have less issues than I did

And btw , USB boot is not selectable in bios for some reason.


----------



## mandrix

I see around that a lot of people are having trouble getting Qflash to see their USB sticks. Easiest solution for me was to install the extra USB 3.0 ports included with the UD5H in an empty 5.25" bay and use them instead.
I have it plugged into the first USB 3.0 header, I think.


----------



## Sin0822

interesting I haven't had issues with USB stick in FAT32, it worked fine everytime, but I did have one USB stick and it stopped being seen, but it turns out the stick was messed up anyways.

roxxphatcox- lol you really install your systems with Crossfire already setup? Did you update the BIOS to the latest?

Some of these boards have been at the stores for months already, as they were shipped very early on, and they have very early BIOSes, if you buy a board you should flash the BIOS to F6 for the UD5H and I think F8 for the UD3H.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evtron*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Just ordered my Z77 UD5H. I have a quick question on the PCI 3.0 lanes. Is the bandwidth deteremined per slot? As in #1 = 16x #2 = 8x #3 = 4x or is it determined on which ones are populated? My question is can I put my dual 680s in PCI Lanes 3.0 lanes 3&4 and still get x8/x8 ?
> Thanks!


if i remember correctly..you getting 16 lines via CPU (all PCI-E are 3.0 when running IB) third slot is PCI
so ;
The 16X slots all can be PCI-E 3.0, they are physically 16x, 8x, and 4x.
if you running CF/SLI you need to populate #1 and #2 slot for 8x8x PCI-E 3.0 (equivalent of PCI-E [email protected]) for SB you will get 8x8x PCI-E 2.0


----------



## ivymaxwell

My ud5h came today.






Instant updated bios to f6, set a few bios settings, now im just waiting to buy ivy. but so far so good after a few bios updates and settings. the sound is good.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

When does 3570K come out? Also is overclocking any different with Z77?


----------



## coolhandluke41

wow this is pretty cool ;
Quote:


> listen we can do one better than just take screen shots, if you goto the last menu where it says save profile, you can save your profile to a USB thumb drive, and send it to me and I can try it on my system!!! I can fix anything if I see anything that is bad and I can send ti back to you and you can just load it up! It is a new feature implemented with Z77 and BIOS F6I, i tested and you can transfer from one board to another as long as they are both Z77X-UD5H. But you should also do the screen shots as it is easier and other people can chime in


I didn't know about this








Source

one question ..can i save my bios settings and view from mem stick ?


----------



## ivymaxwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> When does 3570K come out? Also is overclocking any different with Z77?


im only running a Pentium g620, dont have a 2500k or 2600k to test. waiting to purchase ivy. 3570k coming out 29th.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> When does 3570K come out? Also is overclocking any different with Z77?


No should be the same type of OC.
Should be out now!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivymaxwell*
> 
> My ud5h came today.
> 
> Instant updated bios to f6, set a few bios settings, now im just waiting to buy ivy. but so far so good after a few bios updates and settings. the sound IS really really good.


Nice man! Congrats!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> wow this is pretty cool ;
> I didn't know about this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source
> one question ..can i save my bios settings and view from mem stick ?


You can save to mem stick, but the file is a coded file, you cannot view it from a computer, it can only be read on a board of the same make and model, and i think any BIOS later than F6I. Yea it is prety cool feature they finally added! Really cool stuff, I already tried it an it works well between boards. Yea it is pretty cool huh?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

So if my 2500K can do 4.8Ghz @ 1.45-1.47v do u thing it wise to get a 3570K for free upgrade?


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> So if my 2500K can do 4.8Ghz @ 1.45-1.47v do u thing it wise to get a 3570K for free upgrade?


If it is free I'd say go for it.


----------



## DBEAU

After a PITA installation mostly due to my new water cooling setup I can happily say my UD5H is humming along great. Currently everything is stock but I'll definitely update with my OC adventures.

I just wanted to chime in and say something about the Creative software and all the THX and other audio features. I installed the audio drivers and was wondering why I couldn't find all the features that I was promised on the box like creative software and such. The website doesn't appear to offer this software in the download section either. *I had to throw in the driver CD that came with the board in order to get all the audio software*. I just figured this might be useful to someone else that bought this board partly for audio features.

Cheers


----------



## JollyMan

Sin, the 3570k hasnt actually been released yet, I dont think. It will be released on the 29th of this month. And from what i read you cant actually buy the processor til the 30th. If you know of a website where i can get the processor now that would be great. I have checked newegg and tigerdirect, neither of which even has the processor listed as a product for sale.


----------



## Snakes

Anyone have an idea whether the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo heatsink/fan would interfere with the RAM slots on the UD5H board? I'm trying to figure out what to do, I want some Gskill Ripjaws X modules but they're 44mm tall and that heatsink has only around 37mm clearance. I think the Evo has the same dimensions as the Hyper 212 Plus, just hoping someone here has used one of those heatsinks with the UD5H and can let me know.

Hmm, checked ivymaxwell's photos, looks like he's using the 212+ and it's a real tight fit.


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Anyone have an idea whether the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo heatsink/fan would interfere with the RAM slots on the UD5H board? I'm trying to figure out what to do, I want some Gskill Ripjaws X modules but they're 44mm tall and that heatsink has only around 37mm clearance. I think the Evo has the same dimensions as the Hyper 212 Plus, just hoping someone here has used one of those heatsinks with the UD5H and can let me know.


IIRC from my memory when I used 212 EVO on ASRock Z68 Pro3 the fan touched the first RAM stick of G.Skill Ripjaw X, bumped it slightly above.


----------



## Snakes

I've seen some low profile Ares RAM from Gskill that are around 32mm tall but I can't find any reviews on them, meanwhile the Ripjaws have hundreds of five star reviews. The Ares come in blue which would be great but I'd like to know if they're any good before settling on them. Correction, I found some reviews on websites but no user reviews like on Newegg or something like that. Seeing multiple positive user reviews is always reassuring.


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I've seen some low profile Ares RAM from Gskill that are around 32mm tall but I can't find any reviews on them, meanwhile the Ripjaws have hundreds of five star reviews. The Ares come in blue which would be great but I'd like to know if they're any good before settling on them.


If Ares is shorter than Ripjaw X then I think you will be fine. Since from my experience Ripjaw X bumped my 212 fan slightly above so anything shorter should not pose an issue. UD5H also has slighter wider gap between the CPU socket and first RAM module than Z68 Pro3.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> So if my 2500K can do 4.8Ghz @ 1.45-1.47v do u thing it wise to get a 3570K for free upgrade?


If you got that Z77X-UD5H then yea I would do it. if you have the Z68X-UD4 then no lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> After a PITA installation mostly due to my new water cooling setup I can happily say my UD5H is humming along great. Currently everything is stock but I'll definitely update with my OC adventures.
> I just wanted to chime in and say something about the Creative software and all the THX and other audio features. I installed the audio drivers and was wondering why I couldn't find all the features that I was promised on the box like creative software and such. The website doesn't appear to offer this software in the download section either. *I had to throw in the driver CD that came with the board in order to get all the audio software*. I just figured this might be useful to someone else that bought this board partly for audio features.
> Cheers


Yes it is on the CD, the issue is that the software is what the creative implementation is, and the issue is that I think creative doesn't allow them to post it on the site, or else anyone could download it.
The UD5H actually has audio amps for the front and rear audio outputs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Sin, the 3570k hasnt actually been released yet, I dont think. It will be released on the 29th of this month. And from what i read you cant actually buy the processor til the 30th. If you know of a website where i can get the processor now that would be great. I have checked newegg and tigerdirect, neither of which even has the processor listed as a product for sale.


I have no idea man, sorry







I guess you guys just have to wait then... Unless you have a friend who works at a store.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Anyone have an idea whether the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo heatsink/fan would interfere with the RAM slots on the UD5H board? I'm trying to figure out what to do, I want some Gskill Ripjaws X modules but they're 44mm tall and that heatsink has only around 37mm clearance. I think the Evo has the same dimensions as the Hyper 212 Plus, just hoping someone here has used one of those heatsinks with the UD5H and can let me know.
> Hmm, checked ivymaxwell's photos, looks like he's using the 212+ and it's a real tight fit.


I have a hyper212, i just put the fan on the other side, where the heatsinks are instead of the memory side. On the memory side it would sit on top of the memory sinks. You can always position it so the fan blows up and down, and then you wouldn't have issues.

BTW Guys, GTL has officially launched, it is for Ivy Only so far i believe, but you can download it form the site.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trumpet-205*
> 
> If Ares is shorter than Ripjaw X then I think you will be fine. Since from my experience Ripjaw X bumped my 212 fan slightly above anything shorter should not pose an issue. UD5H as has slighter wider gap between the CPU socket and first RAM module than Z68 Pro3.


Thanks. I'm gonna start thinking more seriously about the Ares then, it costs more but I like the color and if it means everything will fit then it's worth considering.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Thanks. I'm gonna start thinking more seriously about the Ares then, it costs more but I like the color and if it means everything will fit then it's worth considering.


I'm using This Ares kit and so far so good. I've only had the system up and running for a couple hours now but I ran a quick stress test with them at 2133 and all is well. Unfortunately I can't comment on any clearance issues.


----------



## Sin0822

yea those ares are pretty low profile.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I'm using This Ares kit and so far so good. I've only had the system up and running for a couple hours now but I ran a quick stress test with them at 2133 and all is well. Unfortunately I can't comment on any clearance issues.


Thanks. I'm looking at the 1600MHz version. I can get it for $65 Canadian, the Ripjaws were about $55 so its not that much more money to go low profile and get a more desirable color.


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I think Core Temp (like Real Temp) reports the VID. This is the voltage that the CPU requests from the motherboard based on the frequency and load that is is currently under. It is not the actual voltage that the motherboard is supplying to the CPU.
> To read the actual Vcore, you need to use one of the many hardware monitoring programs like HWiNFO64 or HWMonitor (or use a voltmeter if your board has the probe points available).
> CPU-z _should_ also report Vcore, but it sometimes reports Vtt on some Gigabyte boards. The latest beta version (64 or 32 bit) may have fixed the issue, but I haven't tried it yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> Thanks for this mate, i have hwinfo and hwmonitor so i'll check them out as cpu-z only ever really seems to give a vcore of 1.088 or something around that mark which cant be the correct vcore


yes, the latest official release of cpu-z lists the Vtt where VCore should be displayed. However, as valvehead stated, the latest beta versions (which he linked to) will give you the correct VCore display.


----------



## DeXel

BTW if anybody was wondering about maximum amplifier output of UD5H, it's seems to be 32Ω . It is pretty weak, though I have expected that.
Quote:


> Headphone Amplifier [email protected]Ω Load


http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/datasheets/ALC898_DataSheet_0.60.pdf Section 9.3


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Sin, the 3570k hasnt actually been released yet, I dont think. It will be released on the 29th of this month. And from what i read you cant actually buy the processor til the 30th. If you know of a website where i can get the processor now that would be great. I have checked newegg and tigerdirect, neither of which even has the processor listed as a product for sale.


you can buy 'em on ebay if you want 'em bad enough..


----------



## JollyMan

haha, I can wait. I have trust issues with Ebay. thanks though.


----------



## ivymaxwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> haha, I can wait. I have trust issues with Ebay. thanks though.


ebay is horribad i remember when i was a young lad who saved up and could afford a used radeon 9800 on ebay so i can play bf2 and then 2 days later nothing but artifacts! thats was alot of money to me then. never again! also dont trust open box mobos from big companies like newegg either, i had 3 go bad in a row(2 straight doa and looked like someone hardcore overclocked with it....)(when i was young and barely had any money). i haven't touched used in over 10 years.

i rather buy a brand new cheap ecs or biostar then get a used or open boxed top of the line asus or gigabyte.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Thanks. I'm gonna start thinking more seriously about the Ares then, it costs more but I like the color and if it means everything will fit then it's worth considering.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using This Ares kit and so far so good. I've only had the system up and running for a couple hours now but I ran a quick stress test with them at 2133 and all is well. Unfortunately I can't comment on any clearance issues.
Click to expand...

So, it seems you used to have a similar setup like I have (X58 and [email protected]).
How do you feel now, with your new Z77 system? Is there any visible performance or something?


----------



## WileyM

*UD5H User's Manual just updated! Now at 1002.*

One thing I noticed is that the restriction of *DDR3 1600* memory to IB, has been removed. An oversight, a correction...I wonder? Does GB ever release a "What's Changed" reference somewhere?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WileyM*
> 
> *UD5H User's Manual just updated! Now at 1002.*
> 
> One thing I noticed is that the restriction of *DDR3 1600* memory to IB, has been removed. An oversight, a correction...I wonder? Does GB ever release a "What's Changed" reference somewhere?


That is encouraging. I found that really odd because the explanation I've been given for that restriction was that 1600 is not officially supported, meanwhile the product is heavily geared towards overclocking.


----------



## JollyMan

So, quick question. I am setting up the liquid cooling on the 3570k using a 120x2 radiator. Which is a better way to set up the fans on the rad. Pushing air through or pulling air through? For some reason i feel like pulling would be better. anyone?


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> So, it seems you used to have a similar setup like I have (X58 and [email protected]).
> How do you feel now, with your new Z77 system? Is there any visible performance or something?


As of now the only noticeable difference I can tell is it boots way faster. From the point I press the power button until I see windows is so much faster than on my old X58A-UD3R. Other than that I haven't had a chance to play any games yet and tooling around in windows seems about the same. Honestly, I don't expect too much of a difference from my old set up, maybe a few more FPS in games.

I really didn't need to upgrade. my i7-930 setup was plenty fast but I jumped on a cheap 2600k and inevitably had to build a new system around it. I really want to get 5ghz out of it but with the limited tweaking I did last night it might be harder than I thought. Regardless, I'm really happy with the z77-UD5H.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> So, quick question. I am setting up the liquid cooling on the 3570k using a 120x2 radiator. Which is a better way to set up the fans on the rad. Pushing air through or pulling air through? For some reason i feel like pulling would be better. anyone?


Honestly you might get a better response in the Water Cooling Section of the forums. I think push/pull is the best but between the two I'm not sure. I have mine set up pushing air through only because that's the only way it'll fit in my case.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> BTW if anybody was wondering about maximum amplifier output of UD5H, it's seems to be 32Ω . It is pretty weak, though I have expected that.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Headphone Amplifier [email protected]Ω Load
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/datasheets/ALC898_DataSheet_0.60.pdf Section 9.3
Click to expand...

that isn't the amp, you gotta look at the actual chip it is separate from the ALC898 codec, its made by TI. It is a DRV632 and there are two of them. Hardware secrets hahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahaha. I am sorry but you made me laugh.

Here is the datasheet to the amp:
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/drv632.pdf
there are two of them used, one for back panel and for for front panel header. it says 600ohm

ALC898 you can't advertise a amp just with it alone.


----------



## vvista

@sin0822,

Can you please explain the Auto/Normal settings for Vcore and DVID? I got black screen when Normal settings were used? Had to clear CMOS to boot again.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvista*
> 
> @sin0822,
> Can you please explain the Auto/Normal settings for Vcore and DVID? I got black screen when Normal settings were used? Had to clear CMOS to boot again.


okay so basically auto allows for SVID and the board to determine and increase the voltage for you at an easier rate, the board will also help increase the vcore if you increase the OC>

Normal is when the board sets a default vcore and then behind the scenes SVID will increase it slightly depending on the frequency. If you want to add an offset voltage which is applied when he frequency is increased you can use the DVID offset and add an offset value to the normal VID.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> interesting I haven't had issues with USB stick in FAT32, it worked fine everytime, but I did have one USB stick and it stopped being seen, but it turns out the stick was messed up anyways.
> roxxphatcox- lol you really install your systems with Crossfire already setup? Did you update the BIOS to the latest?
> Some of these boards have been at the stores for months already, as they were shipped very early on, and they have very early BIOSes, if you buy a board you should flash the BIOS to F6 for the UD5H and I think F8 for the UD3H.


I am buying my board this sunday. What is the best and easiest way to upgrade the BIOS? I have a really old GIGABYTE GA-EP45-DS3L, and remember I had a really difficult time getting the board to recognize the USB stick in order to do the bios. It took me several days to get it working and now I can't remember what i did since it was so long ago.

Thanks!


----------



## DBEAU

Just put the new bios on a flash stick and put it in the blue usb port on the bacck. Use the in bios flash utility and it should detect the flash drive. Navigate to the bios file and proceed with the update. It worked for me without issue. Couldnt have been easier.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Just put the new bios on a flash stick and put it in the blue usb port on the bacck. Use the in bios flash utility and it should detect the flash drive. Navigate to the bios file and proceed with the update. It worked for me without issue. Couldnt have been easier.


Ok thanks! Sounds like they improved it. I think I had to make a USB bootable disk if i recall with Windows XP.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> Ok thanks! Sounds like they improved it. I think I had to make a USB bootable disk if i recall with Windows XP.


It doesn't need to be bootable. Just make sure it is formatted in FAT32.


----------



## roxxphatcox

Ofc I install my systems with crossfire setup! The technology is centuries old ( atleast a decade) , if gigabyte were to release a motherboard
unsupportive of crossfire @ yr2012 ... And required a bios update to function, I`ve picked the wrong card, haha

When I install a mid-high end motherboard with a brand new chipset, I expect it to function with 10 year old technology out-of-the-box
as advertised... Maybe I am mister crazypants, who knows

The stranger part is not being able to boot at all with other than the integrated gfx controllers, that was more concerning.


----------



## MyDos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Anyone have an idea whether the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo heatsink/fan would interfere with the RAM slots on the UD5H board? I'm trying to figure out what to do, I want some Gskill Ripjaws X modules but they're 44mm tall and that heatsink has only around 37mm clearance. I think the Evo has the same dimensions as the Hyper 212 Plus, just hoping someone here has used one of those heatsinks with the UD5H and can let me know.
> Hmm, checked ivymaxwell's photos, looks like he's using the 212+ and it's a real tight fit.


I'm using the Hyper 212+ and have it pointed up. It blocks one of the RAM slots for the height of my GSKILL Ripjaws F3-17000CL9D-8GBXM. If I buy another set one won't fit unless I turn the fan horizontal which IMO would be less than ideal since my case (P280) has fans/grill in the top.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> BTW if anybody was wondering about maximum amplifier output of UD5H, it's seems to be 32Ω . It is pretty weak, though I have expected that.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Headphone Amplifier [email protected]Ω Load
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/datasheets/ALC898_DataSheet_0.60.pdf Section 9.3
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> that isn't the amp, you gotta look at the actual chip it is separate from the ALC898 codec, its made by TI. It is a DRV632 and there are two of them. Hardware secrets hahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahaha. I am sorry but you made me laugh.
> 
> Here is the datasheet to the amp:
> http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/drv632.pdf
> there are two of them used, one for back panel and for for front panel header. it says 600ohm
> 
> ALC898 you can't advertise a amp just with it alone.
Click to expand...

Yea, ALC898 is DAC, could find any info on the amp itself, so I assumed ..... well anyway I am pretty much noobish in whole audio thing







, want to get first decent pair of headphones







, but can't allow nice amp yet. So this helps. Thanks for that!

And, happy to know that I made you laugh







.

Found them on PCB:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







EDIT: After reading your preview more carefully, I see that you covered it in detail...
Quote:


> #7. This is where the audio output gets even better than other XF-I packages, two of these TI DRV632 which each not only improve the sound output but also are amplifiers and provide head phone amps built into the board. NO LONGER ONLY ON G1!!!! The UD5H now has some cool decked out audio as well.


----------



## r0ach

I think there may be something wrong with the F6 UD5h BIOS dated 4/26/2012. My system occasionally freezes out of the blue and have to hit reset, this is while running stock settings. Never had this happen while running any previous BIOS on this board. Anyone else had something like this happen on F6 UD5H BIOS? (I'm running a 2500k)

It passes 20 runs of IBT and memtest at 4.5ghz, yet I get occasional system freezes out of nowhere while just browsing the web at stock settings after updating to F6.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> I think there may be something wrong with the F6 UD5h BIOS dated 4/26/2012. My system occasionally freezes out of the blue and have to hit reset, this is while running stock settings. Never had this happen while running any previous BIOS on this board. Anyone else had something like this happen on F6 UD5H BIOS? (I'm running a 2500k)
> It passes 20 runs of IBT and memtest at 4.5ghz, yet I get occasional system freezes out of nowhere while just browsing the web at stock settings after updating to F6.


I have a very similar setup so I will report if anything odd happens. How often is this happening? Is everything updated to absolutely the latest drivers (not necessarily the ones on the install disk)?
I did have a couple of instances of Internet Explorer 9 64-bit app hanging, but it was only ever on one web site (tweaktown!), so I suspected it might be a bug with IE9 rather than flakey hardware. It recovered and didn't hang the machine completely.


----------



## jopy

hi im using z77x 3dh and a i5 2500k. f7 bios stock cooler stock default.

there is a too much of difference of my cpu idle temp in bios(around 42~46)/easytune vs hwmonitor .
i don;t know which one to follow before i proceed to get an noctua cooler and oc the cpu.

pls advise which one is the correct reading or any other tips will be gladly appreciated.

thank you


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> hi im using z77x 3dh and a i5 2500k. f7 bios stock cooler stock default.
> there is a too much of difference of my cpu idle temp in bios(around 42~46)/easytune vs hwmonitor .
> i don;t know which one to follow before i proceed to get an noctua cooler and oc the cpu.
> pls advise which one is the correct reading or any other tips will be gladly appreciated.
> thank you


I found that Easytune reported my CPU temperature well below room temperature - So I don't believe it at all!
Other people have noted that there are different versions of Easytune around, although I used the one suggested for Series 7 chipsets on the Gigabyte page for the motherboard.
I am finding HWMonitor reporting perfectly believable temperatures, although the version I have got seems to have a lot of other issues!


----------



## Sin0822

yes there is a major difference between easytune and realtemp, IMO use RealTemp. But hey 90C is okay.


----------



## Cyrus Khatru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> I think there may be something wrong with the F6 UD5h BIOS dated 4/26/2012. My system occasionally freezes out of the blue and have to hit reset, this is while running stock settings. Never had this happen while running any previous BIOS on this board. Anyone else had something like this happen on F6 UD5H BIOS? (I'm running a 2500k)
> It passes 20 runs of IBT and memtest at 4.5ghz, yet I get occasional system freezes out of nowhere while just browsing the web at stock settings after updating to F6.


I'm just building this system, and have yet to do any overclocking, but I also am having problems with freezing and BSOD's. I'm trying to track down the problem. Memtest seemed fine after one pass. I'm also using F6 final. r0ach, which BIOS version were you using previously?


----------



## Sin0822

both of you are using 2500K right?

Can you guys tell me what BDOS says? what stop code does it give?

Also you might want to try flashing back to BIOS F6I for now.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Im back at home for the weekend and am giving my dad this wonderful build. As of right now, what is the "most stable" BIOS opttion for the 2600k and UD5H? I just want him to have the most stable possible with the 4.5 GHz OC. Thanks!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Im back at home for the weekend and am giving my dad this wonderful build. As of right now, what is the "most stable" BIOS opttion for the 2600k and UD5H? I just want him to have the most stable possible with the 4.5 GHz OC. Thanks!


I'm running F6 with no problems yet.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Im back at home for the weekend and am giving my dad this wonderful build. As of right now, what is the "most stable" BIOS opttion for the 2600k and UD5H? I just want him to have the most stable possible with the 4.5 GHz OC. Thanks!


Quote:


> GA-Z77X-UD5H - F6
> 
> - Improve Sandy Bridge CPU overclocking
> - Support Intel Xeon Processor
> - 26.Apr 12


http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-595.html#post425812
F6 Beta Build

P.S.hope your dad will enjoy the rig ..


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> both of you are using 2500K right?
> 
> Can you guys tell me what BSOD says? what stop code does it give?
> 
> Also you might want to try flashing back to BIOS F6I for now.


It doesn't give a code, the screen freezes, usually accompanied by a BEEEEEEEEEEEEEP sound and you have to hit reset. It's happened to me 2-3 times, it just happens at random for no reason when the board isn't even under load. You hit reset and the board runs fine for 24+ hours while gaming or running IBT then it happens at random again.

Like I said in a previous post, I used all of the same parts from my previous i5-760 build for this computer, just swapped out motherboard and CPU. The i5-760 + Asus Sabertooth motherboard never crashed once in 1-2 years so I'm positive it's something to do with either the Gigabyte BIOS or some z77 driver.

I also posted how there's some weird DPC issue with this board right now as well, we definitely need a new BIOS:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/310#post_17077802

My System:

z77 UD5H + 2500k
570gtx MSI reference card
Audigy 2 ZS PCI sound card

All the following disabled

HPET
on-board sound
on-board GPU
both marvell controllers
1394 controller
Atheros LAN


----------



## Cyrus Khatru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> both of you are using 2500K right?
> Can you guys tell me what BDOS says? what stop code does it give?
> Also you might want to try flashing back to BIOS F6I for now.


Yes, a new i5 2500K, I've had a variety of freezes and blue screens, even some slow downs. At least one BSOD was an hardware error, 0124... I'm reinstalling Windows 7 x64 to a non-raid SSD to see if that was part of the problem. If that doesn't fix it, I'll try a prior BIOS.


----------



## r0ach

Ever since I installed this board, I noticed that voltages in HWmonitor for my PSU were way off and tabs like XMP ram profile didn't come up in CPUZ.
I had "Intel Management Engine driver" installed off the Gigabyte motherboard CD and I think besides it's remote management capability, it's also responsible for giving all BIOS reading values to the OS.

I uninstalled the Intel Management Engine driver and now the XMP profile for the ram comes up in CPUZ correctly but the voltages for PSU are still wrong. I don't think this driver works correctly and might be the cause of some system problems. I uninstalled it and the Intel Trusted connection program too. Will see if this has any effect.


----------



## roxxphatcox

Tried overclocking my i5-2500k last night with the latest bios f8d.

Changing the multiplier to anything other than 33 (or basically changing any of the default values related to volt/multiplier/fsb) will result in 3-5 reboots and overclocking fail.

I read earlier in this thread that this bug was fixed, apparently not in my case:/

Will continue testing throughout the day and report the solution when one is found, seems like this Mobo hates my sandybrigde cpu.


----------



## eaglepowers

I can't get into my bios anymore? It's like it keyboard isn't sending out the command? Any suggestions? Thanks.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> It doesn't give a code, the screen freezes, usually accompanied by a BEEEEEEEEEEEEEP sound and you have to hit reset. It's happened to me 2-3 times, it just happens at random for no reason when the board isn't even under load. You hit reset and the board runs fine for 24+ hours while gaming or running IBT then it happens at random again.
> Like I said in a previous post, I used all of the same parts from my previous i5-760 build for this computer, just swapped out motherboard and CPU. The i5-760 + Asus Sabertooth motherboard never crashed once in 1-2 years so I'm positive it's something to do with either the Gigabyte BIOS or some z77 driver.
> I also posted how there's some weird DPC issue with this board right now as well, we definitely need a new BIOS:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/310#post_17077802
> My System:
> 
> z77 UD5H + 2500k
> 570gtx MSI reference card
> Audigy 2 ZS PCI sound card
> All the following disabled
> 
> HPET
> on-board sound
> on-board GPU
> both marvell controllers
> 1394 controller
> Atheros LAN


I'm not seeing any latency problems or spikes. Have you tried uninstalling all the drivers for the Audigy 2 ZS? I have a full 5.1 system at my pc and is also connected via a 50 foot toslink to my HT and I have zero problems, FWIW.
(btw I have 2 of those boards-haven't used them for a long time)


----------



## roxxphatcox

A little update on my "overclocking" adventure.

Downloaded the f8g bios from tweaktown and now I can boot with overclocked settings,
BUT only if I set the overclock in EZ-tune first (regardless of setting and then modifying it in bios)

Sometimes it boots, sometimes it does not. 5ghz might boot and work flawlessly until I restart the pc, and 3.9 might need 10 attempts.

Can`t seem to spot the factor that is causing this irregular behaviour, but I am a n00b Intel oc`er so there might be something obvious that I have missed.

Point being, the f8g bios is atleast letting me boot settings other than optimized defaults.

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

Does anyone else have a problem with the mobo rebooting 4-5 times with a sandybrigde cpu?


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> both of you are using 2500K right?
> Can you guys tell me what BDOS says? what stop code does it give?
> Also you might want to try flashing back to BIOS F6I for now.


Not sure if it's relevant, but it might be worth noting that I do not have any add-in cards at all in my Z77X-UD5H + 2500K system with F6, and have not (yet!) seen the BSOD reported by the other 2 users.

- Steve


----------



## fasty

@Sin0822 : What do you know about Z77X-UD5H beta BIOS F6*L* ? Tweaktown thread makes this look newer than the "released" F6.
Thanks


----------



## craney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Ever since I installed this board, I noticed that voltages in HWmonitor for my PSU were way off and tabs like XMP ram profile didn't come up in CPUZ.
> I had "Intel Management Engine driver" installed off the Gigabyte motherboard CD and I think besides it's remote management capability, it's also responsible for giving all BIOS reading values to the OS.
> I uninstalled the Intel Management Engine driver and now the XMP profile for the ram comes up in CPUZ correctly but the voltages for PSU are still wrong. I don't think this driver works correctly and might be the cause of some system problems. I uninstalled it and the Intel Trusted connection program too. Will see if this has any effect.


Never trust the voltage readings for software based programs, your much beeter off testing with a mulitmeter on a molex cable


----------



## Snakes

It sounds like these boards aren't doing too well with i5 2500k CPUs. I just decided to go with a 2500k over the 3570k and I think I'm gonna start looking at other boards. I wanted this one, unfortunate.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Ever since I installed this board, I noticed that voltages in HWmonitor for my PSU were way off and tabs like XMP ram profile didn't come up in CPUZ.
> I had "Intel Management Engine driver" installed off the Gigabyte motherboard CD and I think besides it's remote management capability, it's also responsible for giving all BIOS reading values to the OS.
> I uninstalled the Intel Management Engine driver and now the XMP profile for the ram comes up in CPUZ correctly but the voltages for PSU are still wrong. I don't think this driver works correctly and might be the cause of some system problems. I uninstalled it and the Intel Trusted connection program too. Will see if this has any effect.


Dont' worry about your PSU voltages being read correctly, if there is one thing a motherboard and software cannot do is read PSU voltage correctly. THey are dyslexic when it comes tot hat, and even if you think they are right they still probably are off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrus Khatru*
> 
> Yes, a new i5 2500K, I've had a variety of freezes and blue screens, even some slow downs. At least one BSOD was an hardware error, 0124... I'm reinstalling Windows 7 x64 to a non-raid SSD to see if that was part of the problem. If that doesn't fix it, I'll try a prior BIOS.


Okay well try that and let me know what happens. Try it also without an add in card see where your DPC is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> I can't get into my bios anymore? It's like it keyboard isn't sending out the command? Any suggestions? Thanks.


You have to list when motherboards and CPu and BIOS dude.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roxxphatcox*
> 
> A little update on my "overclocking" adventure.
> Downloaded the f8g bios from tweaktown and now I can boot with overclocked settings,
> BUT only if I set the overclock in EZ-tune first (regardless of setting and then modifying it in bios)
> Sometimes it boots, sometimes it does not. 5ghz might boot and work flawlessly until I restart the pc, and 3.9 might need 10 attempts.
> Can`t seem to spot the factor that is causing this irregular behaviour, but I am a n00b Intel oc`er so there might be something obvious that I have missed.
> Point being, the f8g bios is atleast letting me boot settings other than optimized defaults.
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html
> Does anyone else have a problem with the mobo rebooting 4-5 times with a sandybrigde cpu?


OKay please dont' OC with EasyTune6 for your overclock, who told you to do that? Just OC out of the BIOS it is the best and more effective way to OC, you cannot get an OC to stick if you OC ith easytune6, unless you pick one of its profiles, which I don't recommend. Go into the BIOS and load optmized defaults, and set your vcore to 1.35, llc to turbo, and your multiplier to 45x if you have a sandy bridge CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> Not sure if it's relevant, but it might be worth noting that I do not have any add-in cards at all in my Z77X-UD5H + 2500K system with F6, and have not (yet!) seen the BSOD reported by the other 2 users.
> - Steve


Yea that could be it, I have a Audigy 2 ZS and I don't use it anymore as on-board audio has become much better. Everyone has their own reasons. I think mine is also partially working too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> @Sin0822 : What do you know about Z77X-UD5H beta BIOS F6*L* ? Tweaktown thread makes this look newer than the "released" F6.
> Thanks


I will check it out I see he posted it today, there was supposed to be some special BIOses released, perhaps those two have CPu PLl OV option.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> I can't get into my bios anymore? It's like it keyboard isn't sending out the command? Any suggestions? Thanks.


Ok, so if I unplug my usb going to my monitor I can enter the bios again. It's the only port that's plugged into something that is ON at bootup. I haven't tried turning on my printer or docking station to see if they too are affected since they are also connected via usb? I've got a 2600K, UD5H running the F6 bios.


----------



## Sin0822

does it matter which port?

Also you can try disabling port 80H emulation.


----------



## mandrix

I had the OS give a message today to unplug a device in a USB 3.0 port. Don't remember the exact message but the two options were to close the window and the port would be disabled, or unplug the device and click the enable box. I unplugged all USB devices and stil got the message. I updated to the 1.0.4.225 driver and we'll see how it goes.

On another note, I guess highest dram speed w/o Ivy Bridge cpu is 2133? Just installed G Skill Trident X 2400 and 2133 is highest divider.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> does it matter which port?
> Also you can try disabling port 80H emulation.


Sin0822- Thank you, you've been incredibally generous in answering everyones questions and I hope Gigabyte is paying you.
I tried mixing up the mouse and keyboard using the usb 2.0 and 3.0 and while the monitor was plugged in it didn't help. I haven't experimented much beyond that.

I tried using EasyTune6 and ran an auto tune and it wasn't even stable at 4.35MHz, so I'm glad to hear the software sucks. Whether or not I have a bad cpu remains to be seen?

Also, I tried to monitor cpu temps and 3 programs gave me very different results. I ram MSI Kombuster and in Speedfan it reache 80c. Freaked me out so I adapted my 212+ bracket to accept my TRUE off my Q6600. Improved 1c. Then I installed EasyTune6 and it said my cpu was at 22c running Kombuster. At this point I realized both programs reading seemed off and I installed HW Monitor and it says I reach 52c which seems to make sense. Especially since the base of my heatsink is barely warm where as my OC 470 is on fire at 84c. I notice other people were reporting mixed results as well.

I haven't got into OC my cpu yet but I'll use your above settings for starters.
Cheers


----------



## thinkthis

I have the UD5H with a core i7 2700k. I overclocked it to 4.5 Ghz and everything is running like a champ.

One problem however.

I am using Mushkin Enhanced Blackline two sets of 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (for a total of 16GB) that runs at a mere 1.35 volts.

Or at least it is supposed to. It defaults to 1333 MHz at 1.5 volts. When I enable the XMP profile it is set to the proper settings, but as soon as I do that my computer gets a BSOD 100% of the time on during the boot up.

The BSOD is one I've never seen before "BUGCODE_USB_DRIVER" but some googling reveals that it is not that uncommon and can be caused by a myriad of things.

Could this be the fault of the UD5H or do I have bad RAM?

Any thoughts?

Thanks.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I had the OS give a message today to unplug a device in a USB 3.0 port. Don't remember the exact message but the two options were to close the window and the port would be disabled, or unplug the device and click the enable box. I unplugged all USB devices and stil got the message. I updated to the 1.0.4.225 driver and we'll see how it goes.
> On another note, I guess highest dram speed w/o Ivy Bridge cpu is 2133? Just installed G Skill Trident X 2400 and 2133 is highest divider.


No max is 32.00x not 21.33, Z77 wont show the extra multipliers unless you have an Ivy bridge CPU installed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> Sin0822- Thank you, you've been incredibally generous in answering everyones questions and I hope Gigabyte is paying you.
> I tried mixing up the mouse and keyboard using the usb 2.0 and 3.0 and while the monitor was plugged in it didn't help. I haven't experimented much beyond that.
> I tried using EasyTune6 and ran an auto tune and it wasn't even stable at 4.35MHz, so I'm glad to hear the software sucks. Whether or not I have a bad cpu remains to be seen?
> Also, I tried to monitor cpu temps and 3 programs gave me very different results. I ram MSI Kombuster and in Speedfan it reache 80c. Freaked me out so I adapted my 212+ bracket to accept my TRUE off my Q6600. Improved 1c. Then I installed EasyTune6 and it said my cpu was at 22c running Kombuster. At this point I realized both programs reading seemed off and I installed HW Monitor and it says I reach 52c which seems to make sense. Especially since the base of my heatsink is barely warm where as my OC 470 is on fire at 84c. I notice other people were reporting mixed results as well.
> I haven't got into OC my cpu yet but I'll use your above settings for starters.
> Cheers


No i don't get paid and don't want to get paid for helping you guys out, I test out their boards for them so i am able to know a lot of the issues and try to help you gusy when I can.

Try RealTemp it is more precise as it reads from the CPU's temp sensor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thinkthis*
> 
> I have the UD5H with a core i7 2700k. I overclocked it to 4.5 Ghz and everything is running like a champ.
> One problem however.
> I am using Mushkin Enhanced Blackline two sets of 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (for a total of 16GB) that runs at a mere 1.35 volts.
> Or at least it is supposed to. It defaults to 1333 MHz at 1.5 volts. When I enable the XMP profile it is set to the proper settings, but as soon as I do that my computer gets a BSOD 100% of the time on during the boot up.
> The BSOD is one I've never seen before "BUGCODE_USB_DRIVER" but some googling reveals that it is not that uncommon and can be caused by a myriad of things.
> Could this be the fault of the UD5H or do I have bad RAM?
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks.


downclock the memory and see if it comes back.


----------



## eaglepowers

I can't get esata to work anymore? I did add 3 more hd internally giving me a total of 6. I can't remember if it was working after going from bios F6I to F6 but before installing 3 more hd?


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> No i don't get paid and don't want to get paid for helping you guys out, I test out their boards for them so i am able to know a lot of the issues and try to help you gusy when I can.


I must echo previous post : We really appreciate your wisdom with these boards, helping us to "fine tune", and your valuable feedback to Gigabyte which plays a big part in gettng the BIOS as bug-free as possible.


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thinkthis*
> 
> I have the UD5H with a core i7 2700k. I overclocked it to 4.5 Ghz and everything is running like a champ.
> One problem however.
> I am using Mushkin Enhanced Blackline two sets of 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (for a total of 16GB) that runs at a mere 1.35 volts.
> Or at least it is supposed to. It defaults to 1333 MHz at 1.5 volts. When I enable the XMP profile it is set to the proper settings, but as soon as I do that my computer gets a BSOD 100% of the time on during the boot up.
> The BSOD is one I've never seen before "BUGCODE_USB_DRIVER" but some googling reveals that it is not that uncommon and can be caused by a myriad of things.
> Could this be the fault of the UD5H or do I have bad RAM?
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks.


I have G. Skill 1.35v RAM and don't have that issue. I have my VTT and IMC (I think those are the abbreviations) adjusted though. I think they're set to like 1.150 and 1.145. I used Sin's BIOS images on his UD5 preview to get my system up and going.

http://sinhardware.com/index.php/reviews/motherboards/117-gigabyte/lga1155-z77/z77x-ud5h/109-z77x-ud5h-review?showall=&start=1

Haven't had any stability issues or BSODs etc. I'm also on the newest F6 BIOS.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Hi guys,
I'm planning to get a Gigabyte motherboard for my first ever build. I'm trying to decide between the UD5H and UD3H - the price difference between the two is close to AUD$100, so I was wondering if it'd be worth getting the UD5H or not. My uses for the computer will be gaming mainly. Thanks


----------



## thinkthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thinkthis*
> 
> I have the UD5H with a core i7 2700k. I overclocked it to 4.5 Ghz and everything is running like a champ.
> One problem however.
> I am using Mushkin Enhanced Blackline two sets of 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (for a total of 16GB) that runs at a mere 1.35 volts.
> Or at least it is supposed to. It defaults to 1333 MHz at 1.5 volts. When I enable the XMP profile it is set to the proper settings, but as soon as I do that my computer gets a BSOD 100% of the time on during the boot up.
> The BSOD is one I've never seen before "BUGCODE_USB_DRIVER" but some googling reveals that it is not that uncommon and can be caused by a myriad of things.
> Could this be the fault of the UD5H or do I have bad RAM?
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks.


downclock the memory and see if it comes back.
[/quote]

It is 100% repeatable. If I turn off XMP is is stable, if I turn it on it BSODs again.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> No max is 32.00x not 21.33, Z77 wont show the extra multipliers unless you have an Ivy bridge CPU installed.


As I expected. Thanks for verifying!

Interestingly the Trident X 2400 performs about the same as the Samsung Green @ 2133. Just might have to pop that Samsung back in when I get IB cpu and test it a little further.

Folks in UK now got access to IB, hopefully in a few hours we in the US will as well.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> It is 100% repeatable. If I turn off XMP is is stable, if I turn it on it BSODs again.


Please set your VTT to 1.150 and your IMC to 1.145

The IMC voltage must be 0.005v lower than the VTT.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> I must echo previous post : We really appreciate your wisdom with these boards, helping us to "fine tune", and your valuable feedback to Gigabyte which plays a big part in gettng the BIOS as bug-free as possible.


You are welcome guys, I just am glad to see them fix stuff up, it really is nice to be able to make a difference. It makes me feel good to see that I can help. This is fun, and I just want others to have as much fun as i do with this hobby!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> I can't get esata to work anymore? I did add 3 more hd internally giving me a total of 6. I can't remember if it was working after going from bios F6I to F6 but before installing 3 more hd?


What other devices do you have?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune*
> 
> I have G. Skill 1.35v RAM and don't have that issue. I have my VTT and IMC (I think those are the abbreviations) adjusted though. I think they're set to like 1.150 and 1.145. I used Sin's BIOS images on his UD5 preview to get my system up and going.
> http://sinhardware.com/index.php/reviews/motherboards/117-gigabyte/lga1155-z77/z77x-ud5h/109-z77x-ud5h-review?showall=&start=1
> Haven't had any stability issues or BSODs etc. I'm also on the newest F6 BIOS.


Yea that shodul work on SB i keep forgetting you guys need to increase your IMC and VTT voltages, set VTT to 1.15 and the IMC to 1.145 exactly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigDirtyNoob*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I'm planning to get a Gigabyte motherboard for my first ever build. I'm trying to decide between the UD5H and UD3H - the price difference between the two is close to AUD$100, so I was wondering if it'd be worth getting the UD5H or not. My uses for the computer will be gaming mainly. Thanks


I wodul just go for the UD3H! Unless you need some of the extra connectivity. The VRM on the UD3H is plenty strong, you are talking about 60A per phase max whereas the UD5H is 30-40A per phase max. So the UD3H is plenty competent of very strong OC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> As I expected. Thanks for verifying!
> Interestingly the Trident X 2400 performs about the same as the Samsung Green @ 2133. Just might have to pop that Samsung back in when I get IB cpu and test it a little further.
> Folks in UK now got access to IB, hopefully in a few hours we in the US will as well.


Yea these boards are tuned and built for IB, but SB is going to be fine as well, don't worry guys. There are so many factors to consider it is not always the motherboard that is bad, so just try and make sure your drives are all good and don't be afraid to try out some of the new BIOS settings, there are so many!


----------



## Electroneng

Sin0822,

Thanks for all your Aid!

I am problem free with my 2500K but will be going 3570K in the next few hours. I must keep my 2nd rig up to par also!

I have my 2500k SOLD ALREADY!


----------



## r0ach

I opened my system and made sure every connection was properly seated then switched out the 30nm Samsung ram with some Gskill I had laying around. The Samsung passes memcheck, but I'll let the system run with the Gskill a while and see if it still freezes occasionally just to make sure it's not some weird ram issue with the Samsung 30nm stuff.


----------



## thinkthis

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by jivenjune
> 
> I have G. Skill 1.35v RAM and don't have that issue. I have my VTT and IMC (I think those are the abbreviations) adjusted though. I think they're set to like 1.150 and 1.145. I used Sin's BIOS images on his UD5 preview to get my system up and going.
> http://sinhardware.com/index.php/reviews/motherboards/117-gigabyte/lga1155-z77/z77x-ud5h/109-z77x-ud5h-review?showall=&start=1
> Haven't had any stability issues or BSODs etc. I'm also on the newest F6 BIOS.
> 
> Yea that shodul work on SB i keep forgetting you guys need to increase your IMC and VTT voltages, set VTT to 1.15 and the IMC to 1.145 exactly


.

Unfortunately that just caused my PC to hard lock instead of BSODing right before finishing the boot sequence.

One strange thing is that is works just fine with the default VTT and IMC when in XMP, but only when I use 8GB of ram instead of 16GB (I tried both sets of 8 and they work in XMP just fine). It is only when I run XMP AND all four sticks of RAM that I get the BUGCODE_USB error (or the hard freeze when I adjust the VTT and IMC).

Stumped.


----------



## Sin0822

XMP possibly can increase your VTT. Try to increase VTT to 1.2v and your IMC to 1.195v while you still have XMp enabled.

Also you should try increasing your DRAm voltage as the XMP increase DRAm voltage.

Also before you do that, get everything working with 2 sticks, and then turn the computer off and toss the other two sticks in there.


----------



## thinkthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> XMP possibly can increase your VTT. Try to increase VTT to 1.2v and your IMC to 1.195v while you still have XMp enabled.
> Also you should try increasing your DRAm voltage as the XMP increase DRAm voltage.
> Also before you do that, get everything working with 2 sticks, and then turn the computer off and toss the other two sticks in there.


That's just it. All I have to do is put in two sticks and it works exactly how it is supposed to. I turn on XMP and the voltage drops to 1.35 and the speed increases to 1600 (which is what this ram is rated for - 1600MHz at 1.35V). It is only when I have all four sticks in that I get the BSOD when enabling XMP. So I kind of have to troubleshoot this with all four sticks in. And I know both sets of ram are good because it doesn't matter which 8 is in there when I'm just running two sticks.

I guess I can just run the ram at the default 1333 @ 1.5v, where it has been rock solid, but that kind of defeats the point of me spending more to get the low voltage 1600 memory.

I guess I'm curious if anyone has any theories as to what happens when you populate all four slots. Why does it behave differently than just having two slots?


----------



## Sin0822

I am telling you just put two sticks in fix it up then toss in the other two sticks without resetting your settings, sometimes that works much better than trying to OC all 4 DIMMs from the start. Supposedly has something to do with initializing them.
Also it isn't hard to get all 4Dimms working, there are other factors when doing four DIMMs such as how much the CPU's IMC can handle, SB's IMC is decent, but still requires voltage increase on 4DIMms and 16GB, i woudl take up the VTT and IMC voltage more like I said try 1.2v and 1.195, some memory kits will take VTT to 1.25v in that case set the IMC voltage to 1.245.

BTW please fill in your rig, I don't know nor remember what setup you have.

1600mhz in 4D is really supposed to be a simple thing to do. What memory is this?


----------



## thinkthis

Added my rig. I'll try higher VTT and IMC when I get the chance and let you know how it goes.

Ram was from newegg:

Mushkin Blackline


----------



## r0ach

edit: freezing issue with 2500k + UD5H and F6 BIOS not fixed. Random, daily freezes with both Samsung and Gskill ram sticks so it's not the ram.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Well, this is strange. Replacing Samsung 30nm ram with Gskill ddr3 1600 1.35v ram fixed my freezing issue, even though the Samsung ram does past memtest.


memtest is only good for hard errors ,try Hyper PI 32M (timings) and IBT (stability)
EDIT; best bet to run your RAM default when trying to establish your OC first


----------



## Rondik

Just ordered the UD5H along with i5 3570k from newegg, cannot wait should be here on tuesday I hope =)


----------



## JollyMan

3570k Ordered!!! Now iahve to withstand the anticipation...I cant!


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> What other devices do you have?


I have 2 monitors, 1 using usb2.0, 1 usb3.0 and 1 esata docking station
edit- the usb 3.0 docking station is randomly disconnecting and reconnecting. Not a good sign as I plan on moving lots of data around.


----------



## r0ach

edit: OK, I have freezes at random with 2500k + UD5H @stock using F6 4/26/2012 BIOS using both Samsung 30nm ram and using Gskill sticks too, so it's definitely not the ram. Like I said before, every other part from this build besides MB+CPU was used in my previous i5-760 build which had 0 problems. The thing passes 20 runs of IBT at 4.5ghz, yet randomly freezes once every 3-8 hours at both 4.5ghz or at stock speed while just browsing the web or playing low demand games.

Will try this new F6l bios and see if it makes any difference.

edit 2: Now the BIOS doesn't recognize the USB stick again. Other people had this problem too. There's definitely some issues that need to be fixed with the BIOS for this board.


----------



## coolhandluke41

why don't you post your bios settings and make it easier for someone to help ?
P.S. if it freezes on idle ,try different LLC or disable C3 and 6, if it doesn't freeze under default settings than it's a bad OC


----------



## H1ghland3r

Ok so another week in with my UD5H, a couple of BIOS updates (now running the F6) and everything seems to be falling into place. the reboots and slight 'flakiness' I was suffering with seems to have all gone now.
I am running a stable 'Turbo'ed' 4.5 overclock on my 2500K with zero problems.

Only one slight issues seems to remain so I figured I'd see if anyone else has had it. I have found that on a cold startup (i.e first thing in the morning after being shutdown all night) it seems to take a while to startup, initially a blank screen, monitor goes into powersave mode for about 20secs, then the Gigabyte splash screen appears as normal, from there however I get a partial UEFI screen with just the title at the top and the blue background from the standard UEFI... after about 20 secs of this the PC shuts down for 10secs or so and then starts up again by itself and boots straight into windows in it's normal speedy fashion.. !?!?!? Weird huh.?

Any thoughts...?

As i said PC seems completely stable other than this. None of the other components are new other than the board and all were working perfectly in their old home (Gigabyte P67a-UD4-B3)
Incase other components might be suspect, in addition to the UD5H and the 2500K I am running :

16GB (4x4GB sticks) of Gskill RipjawsX PC3-12800
EVGA 2GB GTX680
1x Intel 320 120GB SSD
1x WD Black SATAIII 1TB
1x WD Black SATA!! 640GB
1x Asus Xonar DG soundcard.


----------



## drBlahMan

Hey *Sin0822*, originally I was thinking about the Sniper M3 but I've decided to go with the less expensive *Gigabyte Z77MX-D3H*







I had come across a "gold reward" review (*click to read*







)

Is this a 4+2 power phase or a 3+2+1*?* Based on the review, it appears to OC quite well for my satisfaction. My only gripe is how the heat-sinks are attached. Are there any screws available to be bought to replace those ugly push-pins*?* If so, do you know what size I need*?*

_Thanks in advance_, *Gigabyte King*


----------



## roxxphatcox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H1ghland3r*
> 
> Ok so another week in with my UD5H, a couple of BIOS updates (now running the F6) and everything seems to be falling into place. the reboots and slight 'flakiness' I was suffering with seems to have all gone now.
> I am running a stable 'Turbo'ed' 4.5 overclock on my 2500K with zero problems.
> Only one slight issues seems to remain so I figured I'd see if anyone else has had it. I have found that on a cold startup (i.e first thing in the morning after being shutdown all night) it seems to take a while to startup, initially a blank screen, monitor goes into powersave mode for about 20secs, then the Gigabyte splash screen appears as normal, from there however I get a partial UEFI screen with just the title at the top and the blue background from the standard UEFI... after about 20 secs of this the PC shuts down for 10secs or so and then starts up again by itself and boots straight into windows in it's normal speedy fashion.. !?!?!? Weird huh.?
> Any thoughts...?
> As i said PC seems completely stable other than this. None of the other components are new other than the board and all were working perfectly in their old home (Gigabyte P67a-UD4-B3)
> Incase other components might be suspect, in addition to the UD5H and the 2500K I am running :
> 16GB (4x4GB sticks) of Gskill RipjawsX PC3-12800
> EVGA 2GB GTX680
> 1x Intel 320 120GB SSD
> 1x WD Black SATAIII 1TB
> 1x WD Black SATA!! 640GB
> 1x Asus Xonar DG soundcard.


Got the same issue, have no idea what it is. Ud3h. The partial UEFI screen is the strangest.

The only difference is that I sometimes get "overclocking failed" as a result of this random "bootsequence"


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> It sounds like these boards aren't doing too well with i5 2500k CPUs. I just decided to go with a 2500k over the 3570k and I think I'm gonna start looking at other boards. I wanted this one, unfortunate.


I just ordered the 3570k, may get one of these boards after all if most of these issues I'm reading about in this thread are exclusive to sandy bridge CPUs.


----------



## roxxphatcox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I just ordered the 3570k, may get one of these boards after all if most of these issues I'm reading about in this thread are exclusive to sandy bridge CPUs.


Wise choice


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I just ordered the 3570k, may get one of these boards after all if most of these issues I'm reading about in this thread are exclusive to sandy bridge CPUs.


I'm using a 2600k with this board and I have 0 issues. In fact, it's the best motherboard I've ever owned.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> edit: OK, I have freezes at random with 2500k + UD5H @stock using F6 4/26/2012 BIOS using both Samsung 30nm ram and using Gskill sticks too, so it's definitely not the ram. Like I said before, every other part from this build besides MB+CPU was used in my previous i5-760 build which had 0 problems. The thing passes 20 runs of IBT at 4.5ghz, yet randomly freezes once every 3-8 hours at both 4.5ghz or at stock speed while just browsing the web or playing low demand games.
> Will try this new F6l bios and see if it makes any difference.
> edit 2: Now the BIOS doesn't recognize the USB stick again. Other people had this problem too. There's definitely some issues that need to be fixed with the BIOS for this board.


IMO try another PSU, if it isn't fixed then you might want to hit load optimized defaults and test again.

BTW IBT isn't as strong as Prime95 is for SB/IB You can IBT for 50 loops and then try prime95 and get done within the first 10minutes.

Now don't set anything after you load optimized defaults, run everything at stock, even memory and test again. If you still have issues and your PSU isn't messed up, then RMA the board.

About USB 3.0 falling out, some of these ports have power saving modes, if you do not use them they will fall out.

About the half UEFi screen, I only tested with 2600K and it seemed to have been taken care of with F6, but 2500K they prob have to fix it up some more and release a better BIOS for it. At least for now it works, just when it does that half screen, don't interrupt it. Just let it go. So it only happens for you when its a cold boot?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Hey *Sin0822*, originally I was thinking about the Sniper M3 but I've decided to go with the less expensive *Gigabyte Z77MX-D3H*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had come across a "gold reward" review (*click to read*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Is this a 4+2 power phase or a 3+2+1*?* Based on the review, it appears to OC quite well for my satisfaction. My only gripe is how the heat-sinks are attached. Are there any screws available to be bought to replace those ugly push-pins*?* If so, do you know what size I need*?*
> _Thanks in advance_, *Gigabyte King*


Hey I actually have one it is a good board. Should do all you need pretty good.


----------



## H1ghland3r

As far as I've been able to tell it's purely an issue with cold boot. Restarts and even startup immediately after switching off all seem fine.. Problem just seems to manifest after it's been switched off for a while. As you rightly point out Sin, if you just leave it alone it seems to sort itself out, I haven't had any issues with 'failed overclock' messages or anything so I'm not in a manic rush to get the issue fixed, when they get around to it is fine.. just thought it was kinda weird.

Hopefully the next couple of bios releases will nail down the last few remaining issues with this board and I can put the whole P67 nightmare behind me.. this is the 3rd Gigabyte board i've had in a row, Skt775 board was superb, absolutely rock solid, aforementioned P67 gave me nothing but problems from the very first bootup.. looks like this one is going to be more of the former than the latter.. and it's reassuring to see Gigabyte actually addressing issues, makes a consumer feel comfortable spending his/her hard earned cash..!


----------



## Sin0822

yea it does need to be fixed. I will report it tonight.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Based on the review, it appears to OC quite well for my satisfaction. My only gripe is how the heat-sinks are attached. Are there any screws available to be bought to replace those ugly push-pins*?* If so, do you know what size I need*?*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey I actually have one it is a good board. Should do all you need pretty good.
Click to expand...

That's good to hear but what about replacing those push-pins that hold those heat-sinks in place*?* Are there screws I can buy to replace them*?*


----------



## Sin0822

if you really want I guess, so but there is no need, they are pretty well configured, they are strong plastic.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> if you really want I guess, so but there is no need, they are pretty well configured, they are strong plastic.


Thanks







I'll trust you on this. Don't really need to change them...I was just curious if I could.


----------



## Sin0822

yea haha I mean I am sure you could try and find some screws, but if its a push pin then it is just a hole in the heatsink, so IDK how you would do it. perhaps with a nut and bolt?


----------



## rageofthepeon

@Sin0822

Currently have a AM3 Gigabyte board + Phenom II x4 955 and was looking to upgrade to a 3770K. I prefer to shop with Amazon due to their amazing return/refund policy and originally intended to go with an ASRock z77 extreme 6. Unfortunately they don't have ASRock z77 boards to my dismay. It came down to ASUS vs Gigabyte. You're recommendations and in-depth review of the UDH5 helped me make my decision. That and all the people swearing up and down how horrible their ASUS RMA process was. 3770K and Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H-WB WiFi now on the way







.


----------



## Snakes

I was considering Asus as an alternative to Gigabyte as well and today I read about their horrible service. Turned me off, likely buying the UD5H by the end of the week for my 3570k. I'm making a point of buying it locally, in case anything's wrong I can just return it to the store.


----------



## josephimports

Finally, a real motherboard. Thanks Sin0822 and the OCN for the inspiration. Ill post more info regarding the setup and installation of the system. Overall, pretty smooth. Oh yeah, wow does this thing boot up fast.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rageofthepeon*
> 
> @Sin0822
> Currently have a AM3 Gigabyte board + Phenom II x4 955 and was looking to upgrade to a 3770K. I prefer to shop with Amazon due to their amazing return/refund policy and originally intended to go with an ASRock z77 extreme 6. Unfortunately they don't have ASRock z77 boards to my dismay. It came down to ASUS vs Gigabyte. You're recommendations and in-depth review of the UDH5 helped me make my decision. That and all the people swearing up and down how horrible their ASUS RMA process was. 3770K and Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H-WB WiFi now on the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Let us know how it goes!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I was considering Asus as an alternative to Gigabyte as well and today I read about their horrible service. Turned me off, likely buying the UD5H by the end of the week for my 3570k. I'm making a point of buying it locally, in case anything's wrong I can just return it to the store.


Let us know how it goes!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephimports*
> 
> Finally, a real motherboard. Thanks Sin0822 and the OCN for the inspiration. Ill post more info regarding the setup and installation of the system. Overall, pretty smooth. Oh yeah, wow does this thing boot up fast.


Nice man! Enjoy it, while there might be some issues that need to currently be ironed out for the 2500K in particular, they should be fixed soon. However with ivy bridge it is getting hard to find issues like those that have been listed for Sandy.

Also guys I just tested with 2500K and yes I have been able to replicate some of these issues, hopefully they will be fixed soon, I have faith.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Let us know how it goes!


I will. And if I run into any trouble this thread is the first place I'll run to.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Thanks for all the help guys! this thread really is great! handed over the amazing build to my dad and he is photoshopping and editing in lightroom at a million miles an hour now. RAID 0 Samsung 830's with a 2600k at 4.5 will do that to u i guess








. thanks for all the help everyone!


----------



## Fortuneke

is it easy to bios flash the gigabyte motherboards these days ? with some motherboards it's a bit of a pain


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> why don't you post your bios settings and make it easier for someone to help ?
> P.S. if it freezes on idle ,try different LLC or disable C3 and 6, if it doesn't freeze under default settings than it's a bad OC


I have already said like 10 times. I get random freezes with UD5H + 2500k that don't occur while stress testing. It will pass 20 runs of IBT and Prime at 4.5ghz, then just random out of nowhere, the system will freeze once or twice a day. I set the system to stock speed and load BIOS defaults and it still happens. That's all there is to say about BIOS settings.

Like I previously mentioned, the system normally runs with a DPC latency of 4:



Then out of nowhere, once an hour or something, I get some 2400DPC spike as outlined in the post below, so there are clearly some problems with 2500k and this board right now. I never had any DPC spikes on my Asus i5-760 build, and all of the components from it were used on this except CPU + motherboard.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/310#post_17077802



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> IMO try another PSU, if it isn't fixed then you might want to hit load optimized defaults and test again.
> 
> BTW IBT isn't as strong as Prime95 is for SB/IB You can IBT for 50 loops and then try prime95 and get done within the first 10minutes.
> 
> Now don't set anything after you load optimized defaults, run everything at stock, even memory and test again. If you still have issues and your PSU isn't messed up, then RMA the board.


I'm not going to say it's "impossible" for there to be a PSU issue, but it's highly unlikely when I transplanted this PSU from an i5-760 build that worked flawlessly gaming for hours 1 day before putting it in this UD5H. The freeze also occurs at random, sometimes at load, sometimes while just browsing the web. It doesn't occur while doing 20 runs of IBT so it seems even less likely to be a PSU issue.


----------



## H1ghland3r

@R0ach

Not sure if this has been suggested already or if you have already tried it but have you tried pulling the soundcard out.? As you point out there is little chance that it's at fault but it occured to me that there might be an issue with the way it's interacting with the motherboard over PCI..!?
Your problem does sound very much like an issue that I had with my P67A-B3 board when I first built it up.. Unfortunately I can't for the life of me remember what the cause was in the end but it was something daft like a soundcard or having to disable one of the motherboard features to stop them interfering with each other across the PCI bus.. I know we all forget about interrupts and whatnot these days but they can still cause the odd issue..

As I said just a suggestion, hopefully I'm not repeating advice already tried or given...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fortuneke*
> 
> is it easy to bios flash the gigabyte motherboards these days ? with some motherboards it's a bit of a pain


Yes, with Qflash. very quick and easy. Just load the BIOS onto a usb stick, reboot and hit "end" and it will bring up the Qflash setup where you can select the BIOS you want to load.


----------



## mandrix

Just wanted to thank Sin for his great review of the UD5H, your review was no small part in my buying this board. For me it's working really well right now with the F6L beta bios & 2600k. I have a 3770k and an H100 on the way. So anyway the Zalman liquid cooler that you have/had did not work well for me but I won't hold that against you.







This 2600k always wanted lots of voltage and always ran hot.
Already spent too much to go custom cooling so I'm hoping the H100 will help keep the IB Monster under control.

Other thing is I wanted to point out to those that don't know that the Gigabyte Tweaktown forum is a great place to pick up the latest beta BIOS's, up to date drivers, etc as Stasio does an excellent job of staying almost up-to-the-hour on updates including Gigabyte only utilities, Intel drivers, stress testing programs, monitoring utils, etc.


----------



## -Ste-

i picked up a GA-Z77X-UD5H when they was giving away antec kuhler h2o 620 with it for free last week and so far so good

with my 2500k i am at 4.7ghz (1.4v in bios 1.36v in cpuz underload) temps in the 60's i can get it stable at 4.8ghz at 1.450 just seems abit high tho maybe have to check the other power options maybe?

nice motherboard this far better then my Z68A-G43 which could only do 4.4ghz and would make a terrible whining sound when c-sate was enabled


----------



## Fortuneke

Think i will go for the GA-Z77X-D3H , my first choice was Asrock Z77 extreme4 , but its a brand ive never used before ( msi / gigabyte / asus used before )

bit of a hard choice , both are good motherboards


----------



## r0ach

Have had no freezes so far with F6L BIOS and 2500k+UD5h, not sure if I'm just lucky so far though. Also, am I hallucinating or did the option to enable XMP ram profiles disappear in the BIOS.


----------



## Protoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H1ghland3r*
> 
> As far as I've been able to tell it's purely an issue with cold boot. Restarts and even startup immediately after switching off all seem fine.. Problem just seems to manifest after it's been switched off for a while


I'm experiencing the same issue on my UD3H with F8g BIOS. Was not occurring with the F8 -26.Apr 12 BIOS.

I'm finding it a struggle to reach my previous 4.4GHz @ 1.325v overclock with this board. I fear overclocking degradation is the culprit but I'm not sure eight months at that level/voltage would do that. I might purchase a 3770K just for the thermal savings anyway because the temperatures I'm getting while trying to stay silent are unacceptable. It seems a few people are buying those AIO water cooling solutions from Corsair, Antec, etc. but I wonder if the pump noise is going to piss me off. Already kinda pissed that my NH-D14 isn't performing as well as I'd hope.


----------



## Fortuneke

pump noise will piss you off , D14 is way more quiet

tryed reseating your D14?


----------



## Sin0822

protoe has does one make a post yet still have 0 posts.

lol a lot a TON of new people in this thread

Roach if you OC do you get random BDOS?


----------



## Rondik

Got a question, my UD5H will be here tomorrow along with i5-3570k.

I was looking at gigabyte support site and it says it supports i5-3570K since bios F6. What if the board does not come with F6? Will it still allow me to boot up and flash the bios to F6?

Thanks


----------



## rageofthepeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> Got a question, my UD5H will be here tomorrow along with i5-3570k.
> I was looking at gigabyte support site and it says it supports i5-3570K since bios F6. What if the board does not come with F6? Will it still allow me to boot up and flash the bios to F6?
> Thanks


Mine will be here tomorrow as well and I'd like to know if this is the case.

Also, a silly question, but will a 7970 fit comfortably on the board? The SB heatsink looks decently sized going by images found on the web.


----------



## Sin0822

both those CPU have been supported since the first BIOS release lol. I am guessing they tossed that in there to make people happy.


----------



## Protoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fortuneke*
> 
> pump noise will piss you off , D14 is way more quiet
> tryed reseating your D14?


Yep, reseated and had the same results (90-95°C+) I think it was just wishful thinking on my part to think I could run all these Noctua's at 600 RPM in the Corsair 550D and still have adequate cooling. They're all running at around 625-1000RPM now (one of the fan connectors on this board doesn't supply enough juice I think someone else covered it in this thread) and it's pretty much the same noise level (oh *MAN* was it silent at 600







) but this time around the max I've hit is 84°C after 2+ hours of Prime95 blend running 4.4GHz @ 1.335v. So note to all prospective 550D owners, don't choke your CPU cooler like I did! Let'r breathe!

Now let's see what 77W TDP can do...


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rageofthepeon*
> 
> Mine will be here tomorrow as well and I'd like to know if this is the case.
> Also, a silly question, *but will a 7970 fit comfortably on the board?* The SB heatsink looks decently sized going by images found on the web.


It'll fit just fine


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> one of the fan connectors on this board doesn't supply enough juice I think someone else covered it in this thread


Huh, can you elaborate on that? Doesn't sound good.


----------



## Fortuneke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> Yep, reseated and had the same results (90-95°C+) I think it was just wishful thinking on my part to think I could run all these Noctua's at 600 RPM in the Corsair 550D and still have adequate cooling. They're all running at around 625-1000RPM now (one of the fan connectors on this board doesn't supply enough juice I think someone else covered it in this thread) and it's pretty much the same noise level (oh *MAN* was it silent at 600
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but this time around the max I've hit is 84°C after 2+ hours of Prime95 blend running 4.4GHz @ 1.335v. So note to all prospective 550D owners, don't choke your CPU cooler like I did! Let'r breathe!
> Now let's see what 77W TDP can do...


you could even get 1300 out of it and wouldnt even sound loud tbh

try lowering the vcore even


----------



## Sin0822

Just disable smart fan in the bios and see if that is the case, because the fans might go off different temp sensors.

also 1.335 vis a lot for 4.4ghz


----------



## mandrix

I'm still running the NH-D14 until my H100 gets here, but I'm running both (pwm) fans off the cpu fan header with no problems, fans ramp up same as did for Z68 mobo, between 1250-1265 rpms. The other fan headers seem to work ok for me, although of course System fan 4 is full juice all the time, I run my 200mm front fan on it. Still these fan headers can seem to be slow to ramp up. I've got the NH-D14 running manual with 2.50 pwm and it's a good compromise between Normal & Disabled (wide open) and seems to ramp up quicker.
Fans 1-3 I run normal unless stress testing then disable to get my rear fan to run wide open.

BTW, Gigabyte said the board (UD5H at least) is 1A on the fan headers.


----------



## Protoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fortuneke*
> 
> you could even get 1300 out of it and wouldnt even sound loud tbh
> try lowering the vcore even


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Just disable smart fan in the bios and see if that is the case, because the fans might go off different temp sensors.
> also 1.335 vis a lot for 4.4ghz


I personally try to keep any fan in my rig below 1000RPM, otherwise it's quite noticeable for me. I agree with both of you on the CPU voltage being high, but dropping it to _anything_ below 1.335V (even just 1.325V) yields a BSOD after two hours of Prime95. This is where I'm at right now:



Certainly _not_ ideal, but it works and it's not hitting 90°C after 5+ hours. Yeah it's close... but realistically speaking not something I'd ever hit while gaming/rendering. Now I've got an un-opened 3770K next to me from Micro Center and I'm debating whether it's even worth installing since the thermals on IB seem to explode past 4.5-4.6GHz at 1.2V±.


----------



## DBEAU

Considering you have an IB on your desk I say clock that 2600k to infinity and beyond


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fortuneke*
> 
> you could even get 1300 out of it and wouldnt even sound loud tbh
> try lowering the vcore even
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Just disable smart fan in the bios and see if that is the case, because the fans might go off different temp sensors.
> also 1.335 vis a lot for 4.4ghz
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I personally try to keep any fan in my rig below 1000RPM, otherwise it's quite noticeable for me. I agree with both of you on the CPU voltage being high, but dropping it to _anything_ below 1.335V (even just 1.325V) yields a BSOD after two hours of Prime95. This is where I'm at right now:
> 
> 
> 
> Certainly _not_ ideal, but it works and it's not hitting 90°C after 5+ hours. Yeah it's close... but realistically speaking not something I'd ever hit while gaming/rendering. Now I've got an un-opened 3770K next to me from Micro Center and I'm debating whether it's even worth installing since the thermals on IB seem to explode past 4.5-4.6GHz at 1.2V±.
Click to expand...

I tossed a 2500k in my HAF 912 w/ a Hyper 212 Evo and a fan (not the one it came with) set to like 800rpm. It's completely silent and hits 79c on highest core after 20 runs IBT with 4.5ghz 1.35v, 1.15vtt, 1.145IMC.

The HAF912 has two 200mm fans running on medium/low speed, so entire system is pretty much silent. Your temps seem a little high with a noctua w/ two fans attached to it and me only running a 212 Evo, but HT does add another 6-10c.

If you want to improve on fan noise, buy some of these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835610006


----------



## psyside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> *I am finding HWMonitor reporting perfectly believable temperatures, although the version I have got seems to have a lot of other issues!*


Just disable Smart sensors (totally) if you got skipping/lag issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> The freeze also occurs at random, sometimes at load, sometimes while just browsing the web. It doesn't occur while doing 20 runs of IBT so it seems even less likely to be a PSU issue.


Chek out your SSD/RST drivers.


----------



## DBEAU

Is there no offset cpu voltage setting on this board. I'm familiar with the DVID but you can only use it by setting the cpu voltage to "normal" and then adding a positive DVID to it.

Essentially I want to overclock and also allow the cpu to scale down voltage when idle. From reading around it seems that other boards have a cpu voltage offset feature that lets you set a max voltage and set a negative offset for it to scale down.


----------



## Snakes

I'm expecting to pick up the UD5H this week and start putting together my new 3570k system. At what point should I update the bios? Before installing windows? After updating Windows? Does it matter?


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I'm expecting to pick up the UD5H this week and start putting together my new 3570k system. At what point should I update the bios? Before installing windows? After updating Windows? Does it matter?


i updated the bios right away just made sure all my hardware was showing up first


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> i updated the bios right away just made sure all my hardware was showing up first


Makes sense to me, I'll do the same.


----------



## rgr555

I haven't built my computer since 6 years ago. Now I have this mobo and a 3570k and brainstorming the install next week.

One question, where do my DVD-ROM and CD-ROM drives plug into the motherboard? I remember they were IDE cables. Am I supposed to use SATA? I"m assuming there are SATA ports on the dvd/cd drives?


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgr555*
> 
> I haven't built my computer since 6 years ago. Now I have this mobo and a 3570k and brainstorming the install next week.
> One question, where do my DVD-ROM and CD-ROM drives plug into the motherboard? I remember they were IDE cables. Am I supposed to use SATA? I"m assuming there are SATA ports on the dvd/cd drives?


You're going to have to buy a SATA dvd drive. Current motherboards aren't providing IDE ports anymore.


----------



## rgr555

Thanks. Going to do that now. Video card comes on the 7th so I have time.


----------



## crapatguitar

Hey guys I have this board along with a 2500k currently clocked at 4.5ghz.. The board is amazing and the cpu is rock solid after 50 runs of IBT on very high, however after I updated to F6 Bios from F5 I've been experiencing weird boot problems. The System would reboot 3 times after being shut off overnight, and then proceed to boot regularly as if nothing happened. On the first reboot the screen remains black, second reboot it would show gigabyte UEFI logo on the very top of the screen and nothing else, then on the 3rd boot the system would start up regularly. I'm not sure if this is a serious problem or just a nuisance, any help regarding this would be appreciated.
Thanks


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> both those CPU have been supported since the first BIOS release lol. I am guessing they tossed that in there to make people happy.


Cool thanks! Should I just go to F6 or try a later beta one? What is recommended for i5-3570k?

My chip/mobo arrived today so as soon as I get home will start building.


----------



## rageofthepeon

Packages just arrived and I want to get started installing buuuut....my keyboard is an old ps/2 Gateway keyboard from _years_ ago! To run out and buy a keyboard or work on final exams, hmmm...


----------



## Snakes

Does it matter which ports I plug my SATA devices into? I only have SATA2 drives: One SSD, two HDD, one DVD.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crapatguitar*
> 
> Hey guys I have this board along with a 2500k currently clocked at 4.5ghz.. The board is amazing and the cpu is rock solid after 50 runs of IBT on very high, however after I updated to F6 Bios from F5 I've been experiencing weird boot problems. The System would reboot 3 times after being shut off overnight, and then proceed to boot regularly as if nothing happened. On the first reboot the screen remains black, second reboot it would show gigabyte UEFI logo on the very top of the screen and nothing else, then on the 3rd boot the system would start up regularly. I'm not sure if this is a serious problem or just a nuisance, any help regarding this would be appreciated.
> Thanks


Yea it is a nuisance they are working on it now, it doesn't' affect anything, so just let it do it and it should boot up. It should be fixed soon.

Issue is that i am not able to reproduce this, can you download and save your profile and send it over? You can goto the last page and say save profile and save it to a USB drive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Does it matter which ports I plug my SATA devices into? I only have SATA2 drives: One SSD, two HDD, one DVD.


Plug them into the black ones.


----------



## crapatguitar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Yea it is a nuisance they are working on it now, it doesn't' affect anything, so just let it do it and it should boot up. It should be fixed soon.
> Issue is that i am not able to reproduce this, can you download and save your profile and send it over? You can goto the last page and say save profile and save it to a USB drive.
> Plug them into the black ones.


Yep, for sure.


----------



## rgr555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rageofthepeon*
> 
> 
> Packages just arrived and I want to get started installing buuuut....my keyboard is an old ps/2 Gateway keyboard from _years_ ago! To run out and buy a keyboard or work on final exams, hmmm...


Work on exams imo.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> I personally try to keep any fan in my rig below 1000RPM, otherwise it's quite noticeable for me. I agree with both of you on the CPU voltage being high, but dropping it to _anything_ below 1.335V (even just 1.325V) yields a BSOD after two hours of Prime95. This is where I'm at right now:
> 
> Certainly _not_ ideal, but it works and it's not hitting 90°C after 5+ hours. Yeah it's close... but realistically speaking not something I'd ever hit while gaming/rendering. Now I've got an un-opened 3770K next to me from Micro Center and I'm debating whether it's even worth installing since the thermals on IB seem to explode past 4.5-4.6GHz at 1.2V±.


oh dude you have 2600K!!!! FOR SOME REASON I THOUGHT YOU HAD 3570k! hahah NVM man. 1.35v is not normal for that frequency with ivy, you can do at least 4.6-4.8gzh with sandy no that is normal.


----------



## tazmania

Can someone please tell me what the difference between the ga-z77x-ud3h and ga-z77x-d3h?
I've looked into both enough and i don't know the real valuable difference between them. Their prices are $115 and $100. What's the $15 difference for?


----------



## Ali Man

@Sin0822, hey man, I also just received my Z77x-UD5H a few days back and had a question. There's a HP_PWR connector just right beside the upper VRM heatsinks. The manual says that this powers up some LED's of the chipset.

1) Well does it really do that? and if you have or know any pic showing that?

2) And the connectors cable doesn't come with it, so where to get it from?


----------



## rgr555

Which is better:

1) Onboard Realtek ALC898
2) Audigy 2

???

Thanks


----------



## Snakes

Picked up the UD5H tonight. The store employee insisted on opening up the box and taking the board out to examine the pins in the socket before selling it to me, I wasn't sure what the hell he was doing. Later I realized he wanted to cover his ass so that I couldn't come back and claim something was wrong with it. I didn't take a close look at that socket, hope it was fine cause I guess I basically signed off on it. Has anyone had this experience with a motherboard at a store before? I haven't.

The metallic blue heatsinks look GREAT. So much nicer than any of the photos seem to show. I love the look. Going to put it all together tomorrow night or Thursday.


----------



## rgr555

Which store? At MC they didn't do that to me today.

Love this board. Been watching the newegg review of it on Youtube to get familiar. Know everything now, waiting for my SSD and 7850 to arrive on Monday, argh.


----------



## coolhandluke41

I noticed there is a bunch of new members ...especially in this thread







,please guy/girls fill up you sig
click on your profile (right hand corner/top),scroll down to the bottom of the page and click "create a new rig" (right hand side) and fill up all the info
Thanks
@Snakes ..congrats, good looking MB ,enjoy


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> @Sin0822, hey man, I also just received my Z77x-UD5H a few days back and had a question. There's a HP_PWR connector just right beside the upper VRM heatsinks. The manual says that this powers up some LED's of the chipset.
> 1) Well does it really do that? and if you have or know any pic showing that?
> 2) And the connectors cable doesn't come with it, so where to get it from?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> There are no LEDs, but on some boards there is a small connector labeled HP Power, it provides like a 12v output, but IDk why it is there, there are no LEDs. perhaps it was something they originally planned and forgot to remove?


----------



## coolhandluke41

the 12v output is great idea ,there are some waterblock/cpu blocks with LED's and some new small-factor watercoolers with LED display


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> the 12v output is great idea ,there are some waterblock/cpu blocks with LED's and some new small-factor watercoolers with LED display


It is a nice feature. The weird part is, in the manual it says it is there to power the heatsink LEDs


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tazmania*
> 
> Can someone please tell me what the difference between the ga-z77x-ud3h and ga-z77x-d3h?
> I've looked into both enough and i don't know the real valuable difference between them. Their prices are $115 and $100. What's the $15 difference for?


The U stands for 2oz copper, so the board has 2oz copper, basically the u version is higher quality PCB, the extra copper can help with power quality and cooling. BUt it shouldn't make much of a difference, not many boards use 2oz copper.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgr555*
> 
> Which is better:
> 1) Onboard Realtek ALC898
> 2) Audigy 2
> ???
> Thanks


I woudl say if you are looking at the UD5H's audio, then the UD5H's ALC898 implementation is better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Picked up the UD5H tonight. The store employee insisted on opening up the box and taking the board out to examine the pins in the socket before selling it to me, I wasn't sure what the hell he was doing. Later I realized he wanted to cover his ass so that I couldn't come back and claim something was wrong with it. I didn't take a close look at that socket, hope it was fine cause I guess I basically signed off on it. Has anyone had this experience with a motherboard at a store before? I haven't.
> The metallic blue heatsinks look GREAT. So much nicer than any of the photos seem to show. I love the look. Going to put it all together tomorrow night or Thursday.


Yea some people mess up the install of the CPU, and if your board has bent pins, they usually don't cover it under warranty, because the hole socket has to be replaced. The guy IDK, was probably covering his ass b/c he is really cheap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgr555*
> 
> Which store? At MC they didn't do that to me today.
> Love this board. Been watching the newegg review of it on Youtube to get familiar. Know everything now, waiting for my SSD and 7850 to arrive on Monday, argh.


I did a few reviews if you want to cover the board even more:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1230247/z77x-ud5h-preview
http://www.overclock.net/t/1240618/z77x-ud5h-performance-review-sandy-benchmarks-with-mvp-analysis-bios-walk-through


----------



## Snakes

It happened at Canada Computers. Can someone tell me if this UD5H motherboard is supposed to come shrinkwrapped? Mine wasn't, it was just the cardboard box. I'm trying to make sure this wasn't used or opened before he opened it in front of me. The tape on the electrostatic bag looked untouched before he opened it.


----------



## Rondik

I was curious putting everything together now and which sata3 port do i plug in my crucial m4 ssd, the one that is for intel, or the one that is for marvell?


----------



## anti_808

I'm probably being overly paranoid, but does anyone think I might have compatibility issues using these sticks on a UD3H? Reason being I was looking at the "compatible memory" page on the website. I know they can't test every kit ever, but yeah I'm being paranoid aren't I?


----------



## Ali Man

Thanks man, appreciate it


----------



## Snakes

I don't know about compatibility with the motherboard, but those have tall heat spreaders that could interfere with some CPU coolers.


----------



## anti_808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I don't know about compatibility with the motherboard, but those have tall heat spreaders that could interfere with some CPU coolers.


Not too worried about that, re-using my H70 for this build


----------



## Snakes

Ah, I mention it cause I came very close to buying ram that would have interfered with my heatsink fan, I ended up going with some low profile ram that's much shorter.


----------



## anti_808

For anyone else who wonders if their Corsair RAM will work with the UD3H, use this link


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> It happened at Canada Computers. Can someone tell me if this UD5H motherboard is supposed to come shrinkwrapped? Mine wasn't, it was just the cardboard box. I'm trying to make sure this wasn't used or opened before he opened it in front of me. The tape on the electrostatic bag looked untouched before he opened it.


motherboards don't come shrink wrapped, at best they come in a anti-plastic bag. So yea it is fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> I was curious putting everything together now and which sata3 port do i plug in my crucial m4 ssd, the one that is for intel, or the one that is for marvell?


The one from Intel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti_808*
> 
> I'm probably being overly paranoid, but does anyone think I might have compatibility issues using these sticks on a UD3H? Reason being I was looking at the "compatible memory" page on the website. I know they can't test every kit ever, but yeah I'm being paranoid aren't I?


You should be fine.

Yea memory vendors test out their memory on the boards to make sure they work, so you can look at GB's QVl and Corsair's.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> motherboards don't come shrink wrapped, at best they come in a anti-plastic bag. So yea it is fine.


Yeah the board was in the antistatic bag inside the box, but I was talking about the outer white cardboard box with all the art and specs on it. That doesn't ever come shrinkwrapped?


----------



## Incatius

It does not come shrink rapped on the outside of the box.


----------



## Snakes

Thanks, I guess I'll try to put it behind me and assume it's a new board.


----------



## Sin0822

yea don't worry if it works then you are good. If it doesn't work then take it back and say that he much have shocked it when he handled it when he took it out of it's bag. I mean it is in an anti-static bag for a reason, because you just aren't supposed to pick up a motherboard or CPU, or even memory for that matter without grounding yourself first.

However these boards are very well built, i am sure everything is okay.


----------



## Snakes

Okay. I was just mad at the thought that I might have paid for a new product and gotten a used or opened one. I was mad at the store and also mad at myself for not asking more questions about why he was doing that. I'll try to forget about it, should find out in the next 2 days whether it works once I get some time to put everything together.


----------



## Sin0822

yea, i mean you will see people mess up sockets, i think if you do the fine is like $70 to have it replaced by the manufacturer. So be careful.


----------



## Snakes

The last CPU I installed was an Intel E8400 in 2008, had no trouble with that one. Hopefully this new one goes smoothly as well.


----------



## Sin0822

it should, don't worry so much and just do it!


----------



## Rondik

So I got my machine up and running, first thing I did was update it to F6.

here are my specs:

i5-3570k
z77x-ud5h
16 GB G.skill DDr3 1600
Crucial M4 SSD
Samsung 1 TB Drive
EVGA GTX 680 SC
Thermalright True Spirit 120

Only thing I noticed so far is everytime I reboot the pc or start it up it says Bios has been reset - Please decide how to continue, and two options are Load optimized defaults then boot, and or reboot, or enter bios.

I have not gone into BIOS yet to overoclock or do anything.

Any ideas what I need to do or why this keeps happening?

Thanks

EDIT: Ok this time I booted up and did a restart again, and this time did something weird. It shutdown the PC instead of rebooting, and then powered itself back on about 3 seconds later but did not prompt me to say Bios has been reset.

and rebooted again..this time did it completely fine...not sure what going on...I am tired think I need sleep =)


----------



## rageofthepeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Okay. I was just mad at the thought that I might have paid for a new product and gotten a used or opened one. I was mad at the store and also mad at myself for not asking more questions about why he was doing that. I'll try to forget about it, should find out in the next 2 days whether it works once I get some time to put everything together.


Same here. When I got the motherboard it had no sticker on the outer edges to show if it was factory new or not and the anti-static bag was folded over and taped. I'm sure Amazon didn't try and stiff me but it doesn't make me happy lol.

Working on exams, hopefully I can have it put together by this weekend.


----------



## Snakes

Not sure about your problem, but I've always read with Gigabyte boards that you should load optimized defaults when you're starting out or if you change something major.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rageofthepeon*
> 
> Same here. When I got the motherboard it had no sticker on the outer edges to show if it was factory new or not and the anti-static bag was folded over and taped. I'm sure Amazon didn't try and stiff me but it doesn't make me happy lol.
> Working on exams, hopefully I can have it put together by this weekend.


My bag was folded over and taped, I think that's normal. There's no trace of seals on the box, doesn't look like any stickers were removed there. Even my CPU cooler has a sticker seal on it.

I don't really like this flimsy outer box thing, I liked when you folded up the top lid of the box and your motherboard was inside. My mobo boxes have been like that for the last 20 years til now. Not a big deal, just an observation.


----------



## stasio

New BIOS out:

G1.Sniper 3 - F5
GA-Z77X-UD5H - F7


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> New BIOS out:
> G1.Sniper 3 - F5
> GA-Z77X-UD5H - F7


Do you know what UD5H F7 fixes? Anything related to 2600k?


----------



## r0ach

Just had system freeze with UD5H F6L BIOS + 2500k. I noticed the freeze seems to occur after I leave the computer AFK for a while. It goes into standby, then after being woken up for a bit, it happens. Not entirely sure going into standby is the cause, but it's my best guess so far.


----------



## H1ghland3r

So is there any word on what fixes are in place with F7 for the UD5H ..?

Just asking as my system is super stable on F6 currently apart from the weird startup issue I described earlier and so I'm reluctant to maybe introduce new problems unless there is a specific fix in place.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Not sure about your problem, but I've always read with Gigabyte boards that you should load optimized defaults when you're starting out or if you change something major.


Ok That might have worked, I think last few times I just choose option to go into bios. This time i choose load optimized defaults.

I had to go to bed will have to play with it more tonight


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H1ghland3r*
> 
> So is there any word on what fixes are in place with F7 for the UD5H ..?
> Just asking as my system is super stable on F6 currently apart from the weird startup issue I described earlier and so I'm reluctant to maybe introduce new problems unless there is a specific fix in place.


its it stable i would just stay with your current bios and just wait until there is a little more info on the new bios


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea, i mean you will see people mess up sockets, i think if you do the fine is like $70 to have it replaced by the manufacturer. So be careful.


I will tell you something and you can either believe it or not. I don't need anyone's approval and I'm not looking for sympathy.
The first UD5H board I bought, I mounted the board in the chassis before installing the cpu. When I removed the cpu socket cover, I saw a shiny spot amongst the pins. I got a magnifying glass and saw several bent pins with what looked like black plastic mingled in. Being stupid and anxious to try out the new board I tried to straighten the pins and install a cpu. Board wouldn't boot. I've sent it to Gigabyte for repair since the seller wouldn't RMA it.

Now: did the pins get bent when I removed the socket cover? I don't know. I haven't installed thousands of cpu's but I have installed quite a few over the years and never had this before.


----------



## -Ste-

just some info for you guys on the f7 bios i have already noticed

my G9 mouse is now working fully in the bios (i could only move my mouse and not click)
it now recognizes my usb drive when its plugged into the front usb port


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Not sure about your problem, but I've always read with Gigabyte boards that you should load optimized defaults when you're starting out or if you change something major.


thanks that seemed to do the trick, this morning I tested it by restarting computer a few times from power off, and in windows and not once did I get the message again.


----------



## rageofthepeon

Quick question, is it worth it to put a second fan on a CM Hyper 212+ for push/pull configuration? I notice there is only one CPU fan header and it seems like the SYS fan headers run at different speeds according to other people.

Edit: Answered my own question, don't want to wait for a PWM splitter.

Edit 2: According to someone from tweaktown (fastie)

Connected to SYS_FAN1 header, a fan seems to run quite slowly, (say, 700rpm at ambient) although it is controlled with temperature.
Connected to SYS_FAN2 header, a fan runs about twice as fast (say, 1400rpm at ambient) also controlled.
Connected to SYS_FAN3 header, a fan runs the same as SYS_FAN2.
Connected to SYS_FAN4 header, a fan seems to always run at full speed, uncontrolled.

I guess I could plug the pull fan into SYS_FAN4 and have it going full tilt. Hmmm.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> t.
> However these boards are very well built, i am sure everything is okay.


I will second that, I did something really stupid and bad (should have done build on weekend when had more time that was my mistake), I accidentally dropped the mounting metal bracket for my cooler right on the board and it dropped like a thud, it was pretty heavy not light, and was like crap, but board booted up with no issues and seems to be fine.


----------



## JollyMan

OK guys...just got the board all installed with IB 3570k. I have just the hard drives hooked up, 2x4 gb ram INSTALLED IN DUAL CHANNEL SLOTS. When i start the board it pulses then shuts off, then pulses then shuts off, then its seems to start up and the board debug lcd post a "19". It then shuts off then repeats the exact same process. Should i disconnect all peripherals and try again? Any help would be great. The board is Rev. 1.


----------



## JollyMan

Also i have the monitor hooped up through HDMi and i am not getting anything coming up on the monitor when i try to boot.


----------



## JollyMan

Got into bios by hitting reset button during its loop. Flashing bios to F7 as i type.


----------



## JollyMan

Just updated to F7 bios. Still getting this weird boot pulse thing and I still have to reset in order to get the bios to come up on the monitor.


----------



## valvehead

You added posts while I was typing this, but it may still help you anyway:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> OK guys...just got the board all installed with IB 3570k. I have just the hard drives hooked up, 2x4 gb ram INSTALLED IN DUAL CHANNEL SLOTS. When i start the board it pulses then shuts off, then pulses then shuts off, then its seems to start up and the board debug lcd post a "19". It then shuts off then repeats the exact same process. Should i disconnect all peripherals and try again? Any help would be great. The board is Rev. 1.


First of all, it would be helpful to know what hardware you have. Go to your profile page and clock on "Create a new rig" under Your Rigs. You will then proceed through several steps to add information about the hardware in your rig. You don't have to include everything, but CPU, MB, RAM, PSU, case, and cooling are good things to include.

After you have filled out that information, go back to your profile page and add the new rig to your signature. Click on "Edit Signature Text" under Your Forum Signature. Underneath the text box, there should be drop-down boxes that say "Show off stuff in your signature." Click on the drop-down box and select your new rig. You can also put a signature in the big text box above if you like. After you're done, just hit "Submit."

The first thing to try would be to reset the CMOS. Turn the power off and unplug the computer. Then press and hold the reset switch on the board for several seconds. Plug it back in and try booting it again.

Continuing on, POST code 19 on the UD5H is the pre-memory south bridge initialization step during POST. I think memory initialization is the next step, so if it is getting stuck at that point, then it is probably a RAM problem. Which slots are you using? The slots are numbered 1,3,2,4 with the 1st slot being the furthest from the CPU. Gigabyte recommends using slots 1 and 2 when using two DIMMs in dual-channel mode.

If you are using the correct slots, then try using one RAM stick at a time in slot 1. If one works and the other fails, then you know you have a bad stick of RAM. If both work, then try different slots to see if there is a problem with any particular slot.

If neither stick works in any slot, then there may be an incompatibility between the RAM and the MB. It is also possible that both sticks could be bad, but that is less likely.

If and when you do get into the UEFI setup, make sure you load optimized defaults, save, and reboot.

EDIT: There should be an edit button (pencil icon) at the bottom of each of your posts.


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H1ghland3r*
> 
> So is there any word on what fixes are in place with F7 for the UD5H ..?
> Just asking as my system is super stable on F6 currently apart from the weird startup issue I described earlier and so I'm reluctant to maybe introduce new problems unless there is a specific fix in place.


is it starting, then shutting down and restarting again? Mine is also doing this weird pulse thing when it first starts, then i have reset to get it to boot.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Just had system freeze with UD5H F6L BIOS + 2500k. I noticed the freeze seems to occur after I leave the computer AFK for a while. It goes into standby, then after being woken up for a bit, it happens. Not entirely sure going into standby is the cause, but it's my best guess so far.


Yea that is b/c of the CPU PLL OV, they need to add that in there, but IDK if F7 adds it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H1ghland3r*
> 
> So is there any word on what fixes are in place with F7 for the UD5H ..?
> Just asking as my system is super stable on F6 currently apart from the weird startup issue I described earlier and so I'm reluctant to maybe introduce new problems unless there is a specific fix in place.


No idea, prob better mouse/kb support. Can you try to just switch the BIOS switch and give it a shot, if it doesn't work well, then switch back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I will tell you something and you can either believe it or not. I don't need anyone's approval and I'm not looking for sympathy.
> The first UD5H board I bought, I mounted the board in the chassis before installing the cpu. When I removed the cpu socket cover, I saw a shiny spot amongst the pins. I got a magnifying glass and saw several bent pins with what looked like black plastic mingled in. Being stupid and anxious to try out the new board I tried to straighten the pins and install a cpu. Board wouldn't boot. I've sent it to Gigabyte for repair since the seller wouldn't RMA it.
> Now: did the pins get bent when I removed the socket cover? I don't know. I haven't installed thousands of cpu's but I have installed quite a few over the years and never had this before.


Yea that sucks man I am sorry, i hope they take care of it for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> just some info for you guys on the f7 bios i have already noticed
> my G9 mouse is now working fully in the bios (i could only move my mouse and not click)
> it now recognizes my usb drive when its plugged into the front usb port


Good to hear!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> is it starting, then shutting down and restarting again? Mine is also doing this weird pulse thing when it first starts, then i have reset to get it to boot.


can you please fill out your rig so it comes up like in our signatures. Please? That way we can know what CPU, what board, what memory, and what PSU without having to ask you every-time.

I don't mean to be rude, but there are so many people I help, and i am not about to go read through 10 pages to find out what your system specs are lol.


----------



## JollyMan

Also when i start up as it starts the pusling thing, the m_bios and b_bios lights starting flashing back and forth (one after the other). No clue what that is.


----------



## Sin0822

they check each other to make sure that neither is corrupted.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rageofthepeon*
> 
> Quick question, is it worth it to put a second fan on a CM Hyper 212+ for push/pull configuration? I notice there is only one CPU fan header and it seems like the SYS fan headers run at different speeds according to other people.
> Edit: Answered my own question, don't want to wait for a PWM splitter.
> Edit 2: According to someone from tweaktown (fastie)
> Connected to SYS_FAN1 header, a fan seems to run quite slowly, (say, 700rpm at ambient) although it is controlled with temperature.
> Connected to SYS_FAN2 header, a fan runs about twice as fast (say, 1400rpm at ambient) also controlled.
> Connected to SYS_FAN3 header, a fan runs the same as SYS_FAN2.
> Connected to SYS_FAN4 header, a fan seems to always run at full speed, uncontrolled.
> I guess I could plug the pull fan into SYS_FAN4 and have it going full tilt. Hmmm.


I was wondering what connector I would plug a second fan into on a Hyper 212. What about using 2 and 3 so they would keep the same speed?


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> they check each other to make sure that neither is corrupted.


Ok well, i flashed to f7, installed windows on a new 120gb SSd. Restarted comp and it wont start. It keeps coming up and teh m_bios and b_bios lights keep flashing back forth. I cant even hit the reset button to get it to start up like i did before.


----------



## Sin0822

You should clear the CMOS. How did you flash the BIOS? You still haven't told us what CPU and what board and memory.


----------



## JollyMan

Had to remove 2 sticks of ram to get it to boot...after hitting reset 2x.


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> can you please fill out your rig so it comes up like in our signatures. Please? That way we can know what CPU, what board, what memory, and what PSU without having to ask you every-time.
> I don't mean to be rude, but there are so many people I help, and i am not about to go read through 10 pages to find out what your system specs are lol.


Will do. Meant to do that before. Sorry.


----------



## -Ste-

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-595.html
the changers for the f7 bios is 'Improve USB compatibility'

and as i have said in my post before the front usb now accepts my usb flash drive
and my g9 is now fully working

after alittle messing around my overclock is now alot more happy i5 2500k 4.7ghz @ 1.365v


----------



## JollyMan

BTW...

z77x-ud5h
3570k
g.skill ddr3 1600 8gb*8 gigs as of now...trying to run 16gb)
msi gtx580 twin frozr II
Cooler master real power pro 1000W


----------



## rageofthepeon

I have everything installed and am trying to boot it up but it keeps giving me an error.

"reboot and select proper boot device..."

Only change I've made was to get rid of an old IDE hard drive I was using as secondary backup but it wasn't my boot up hard drive. So it was my WD Black (bootup), SeaGate, and a DVD player. I've disconnected the SeaGate and DVD player and it sees the WD hard drive but it still gives the same error. Toggled between ACHI and IDE just for kicks but it didn't make any difference. No random USB sticks plugged in or anything like that too. Any ideas?

I can get into the Bios fine but nothing after that.


----------



## rgr555

Which SATA slot did you connect your DVD-DRIVE to?


----------



## Protoe

This board would be perfect if the USB 3.0 header was right-angled like on the Sabertooth Z77.


----------



## JollyMan

Still having with issues the boot up on this board. I power and it runs through a series of powering on and off in 5 second intervals, while not even getting any debug codes at all. I have cleared cmos multiple times...


----------



## rageofthepeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgr555*
> 
> Which SATA slot did you connect your DVD-DRIVE to?


DVD drive is plugged in to the Sata 2 ports.

The board is giving me an "AE" error code for "Legacy Boot Event".


----------



## JollyMan

Cant even get into bios at this point..guess i should have gone with the sabertooth.


----------



## roxxphatcox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Still having with issues the boot up on this board. I power and it runs through a series of powering on and off in 5 second intervals, while not even getting any debug codes at all. I have cleared cmos multiple times...


Had 8 when I cold-booted earlier today This is normal with a Sandy brigde cpu on these mobo`s.

Just let it reboot and eventually it will load bios or even crazier ... Boot


----------



## WileyM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Yeah the board was in the antistatic bag inside the box, but I was talking about the outer white cardboard box with all the art and specs on it. That doesn't ever come shrinkwrapped?


It has to have seals on the outer flaps of the box to be considered "New, Factory Sealed". Any other condition is suspect.


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roxxphatcox*
> 
> Had 8 when I cold-booted earlier today This is normal with a Sandy brigde cpu on these mobo`s.
> Just let it reboot and eventually it will load bios or even crazier ... Boot


Funny im running Ivy Bridge. I think i remember seeing SIn say that these issues wouldnt occur on Ivy bridge processors.


----------



## JollyMan

ITs booted and shutoff at least 15 times currently...and counting...***


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Cant even get into bios at this point..guess i should have gone with the sabertooth.


Did you read my reply to you about testing your RAM?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WileyM*
> 
> It has to have seals on the outer flaps of the box to be considered "New, Factory Sealed". Any other condition is suspect.


There are no seals, but there is no trace that any sticker was removed from either end. I don't think there were ever sticker seals on this box.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WileyM*
> 
> It has to have seals on the outer flaps of the box to be considered "New, Factory Sealed". Any other condition is suspect.


Neither my P67A-UD7 nor my Z77X-UD5H had any type of external seal on the box.


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Did you read my reply to you about testing your RAM?


how can i test the ram if i cant even get into the bios? I have gotten into the bios a few times at this point. I was even able to install windows and surf the web. Then i restarted and now i cant even get into the bios.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> how can i test the ram if i cant even get into the bios? I have gotten into the bios a few times at this point. I was even able to install windows and surf the web. Then i restarted and now i cant even get into the bios.


My post was about trying one stick at a time and swapping around to different slots if necessary. The idea is to determine if there is bad RAM or incompatibility.

I brought up the possibility of RAM problems because you mentioned POST code 19. The following step is RAM initialization, the point where your POST was failing.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> ITs booted and shutoff at least 15 times currently...and counting...***


This is just a shot in a dark have not read all other replies so might have been mentioned.

Is the cpu heatsink sitting correctly? Is the cpu fan plugged in? you check your cables from power supply to the board?


----------



## rageofthepeon

Finally just gave up and decided to reinstall windows. I think I was being trolled for having an AMD CPU. Currently enjoying the fun process of downloading a million updates.


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> This is just a shot in a dark have not read all other replies so might have been mentioned.
> Is the cpu heatsink sitting correctly? Is the cpu fan plugged in? you check your cables from power supply to the board?


I do not have a cpu fan plugged in because i am running watercooling. I was able to boot into windows before, so i assumed that the CPU fan not being plugged in would be ok. I will try and plug a fan into the port and see what happens.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> My post was about trying one stick at a time and swapping around to different slots if necessary. The idea is to determine if there is bad RAM or incompatibility.
> I brought up the possibility of RAM problems because you mentioned POST code 19. The following step is RAM initialization, the point where your POST was failing.


So, i have tried all sticks, one at time, with no luck. They were all giving the same reaction when starting. Though I didnt try each slot, one at a time. I will try that and let you know.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> I do not have a cpu fan plugged in because i am running watercooling. I was able to boot into windows before, so i assumed that the CPU fan not being plugged in would be ok. I will try and plug a fan into the port and see what happens.
> So, i have tried all sticks, one at time, with no luck. They were all giving the same reaction when starting. Though I didnt try each slot, one at a time. I will try that and let you know.


I don't know anything about watercooling, but if i recall have to plug something in or disable it maybe in BIOS to ignore cpu fan?


----------



## rgr555

hmmm im preparing my install for next week..

if you have any small details in BIOS or whatever to share that are important for a easy install pls let me know









no Raid for me btw, just 2 ssd


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> My post was about trying one stick at a time and swapping around to different slots if necessary. The idea is to determine if there is bad RAM or incompatibility.
> I brought up the possibility of RAM problems because you mentioned POST code 19. The following step is RAM initialization, the point where your POST was failing.


OK. Plugging a single 4gb stick into slots 1 & 2 gives me "19" post code. Plugging the single stick into slots 3 & 4 gives ]me post doe "DB". Im lost. DB = "flash update is failed". I flashed the bios ASAP to f7 with no issues. Could this mean my memory is bad?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I was wondering what connector I would plug a second fan into on a Hyper 212. What about using 2 and 3 so they would keep the same speed?


Why don't you just try it and see what works best for you? I experimented around with a lot of fan combos but I don't remember them all. But I personally would plug at least one fan into cpu fan header. Then enable cpu fan monitoring in BIOS for insurance if at least one fan quits on you. .
I was running a NH-D12 with the Noctua pwm fans and running both off the cpu fan header. Gigabyte told me the header is good for 1A, although they don't recommend plugging 2 fans into one header. :shrug: If you're using the fan that came with the 212 and a similar one you're not going to get close to 1A.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Why don't you just try it and see what works best for you? I experimented around with a lot of fan combos but I don't remember them all. But I personally would plug at least one fan into cpu fan header. Then enable cpu fan monitoring in BIOS for insurance if at least one fan quits on you. .
> I was running a NH-D12 with the Noctua pwm fans and running both off the cpu fan header. Gigabyte told me the header is good for 1A, although they don't recommend plugging 2 fans into one header. :shrug: If you're using the fan that came with the 212 and a similar one you're not going to get close to 1A.


I'm probably not going to use a second fan on the 212, I was just thinking about the option and how I'd go about doing it because I have a spare 120mm fan. There's a case fan blowing out directly behind where the heatsink would be so I think putting another fan right there would be overkill. I haven't installed the 212 yet, going to get into that tomorrow probably. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> OK. Plugging a single 4gb stick into slots 1 & 2 gives me "19" post code. Plugging the single stick into slots 3 & 4 gives ]me post doe "DB". Im lost. DB = "flash update is failed". I flashed the bios ASAP to f7 with no issues. Could this mean my memory is bad?


if it says db then you usually get into the BIOS screen, if not then yea a BIOS updated failed. Can you tell me, try one stick int he slot furthest away from the CPU. How did you update the BIOS? did you use a flash drive or did you do it through windows?

yea 1A is actually a lot, most fans, silent ones at least are rated under .5A, and the very strong 1200 3mm thick 138CFM fan i have pulls .7A so you can do a y connector and do two normal fans.


----------



## JollyMan

OK. i removed my video card and was able to get a "19" post code. When the post code came up i hit the reset button twice and the computer booted. Since it is up and running i am going to run a mem test on the 2 sticks that are currently in.


----------



## Snakes

Good luck Jolly, I'm rootin for ya.


----------



## Sin0822

yea man good luck. Just to be very stable, please do this:
Reflash the BIOS with F7, put the BIOS ROM on a USB flash driver formatted in FAT32.
Go into advanced mode and hit F8 and then qFLash will come up, update to the latest BIOS.
After it is done flashing it will ask you if you want to shut down or restart, hit reboot.
THen immediately go into the BIOS, goto advanced mode, the last page, and select "load optimized defaults" then save and exit.

That is how you should correctly flash the BIOS.

If you fail to flash the BIOS again please just flick the dual BIOS switch and go to the older BIOS, and if you want to flash the BIOS that is acting up from the other BIOS you can just hit ATL=F10 during POST.


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea man good luck. Just to be very stable, please do this:
> Reflash the BIOS with F7, put the BIOS ROM on a USB flash driver formatted in FAT32.
> Go into advanced mode and hit F8 and then qFLash will come up, update to the latest BIOS.
> After it is done flashing it will ask you if you want to shut down or restart, hit reboot.
> THen immediately go into the BIOS, goto advanced mode, the last page, and select "load optimized defaults" then save and exit.
> That is how you should correctly flash the BIOS.
> If you fail to flash the BIOS again please just flick the dual BIOS switch and go to the older BIOS, and if you want to flash the BIOS that is acting up from the other BIOS you can just hit ATL=F10 during POST.


Once i got the comp to boot and i got into the bios it said my bios was corrupted. it recovered back to F4. going to reflash to F7. I used flash drive to flash it before. I will do exactly as you said to do. I ran memtest in windows just now without any errors. Is everyone having this boot issue? I will update when i have the bios flashed back to F7.


----------



## JollyMan

So after i completed flashing to f7 it asked if i wanted to reboot or shut down. I selected reboot and the comp shutoff completely then came back on, back into the weird boot loop thing. So ihave to hit the power button in order to get the "19" post code. Then i have to hit the reset button twice to get the comp to boot. when the option to go into to bios comes i hit DEL, it then attempts to go into bios. the initial bios UEFI bios screen comes up, but without any options to choose, then the comp restarts. If dont attempt to go into the bios then it will boot straight into windows without any problem (this is of course after i do the start up ritual, hitting the power button then the restart button 2x). Should i try an earlier bios? f6 maybe?


----------



## JollyMan

Oh yeah, when the UEFI bios screen comes up without any options the post code reads "DB".


----------



## JollyMan

OK so now when i try to reboot from the bios screen it shuts down the computer rather than maintaining continuous power. I flashed to F6 bios this time around because it is the bios on gigabytes website.

Is this boot issue a real problem for anyone else? If not I dont get why i am having so many issues. I feel like my setup is a pretty standard setup.


----------



## JollyMan

Also i have yet to try and boot again with my video card or the other 8 gb of RAM.


----------



## JollyMan

I mean i knew i would have some issues with this board...but come on!


----------



## JollyMan

OK running on f6 bios and 8 gb of error free RAM. Going to try and boot with a video card.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> I mean i knew i would have some issues with this board...but come on!


after you flashed the bios did you 'load optimized defaults'?


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> after you flashed the bios did you 'load optimized defaults'?


Once i finally got back into the bios, yes. I had teh system up and running in windows for about an hour and decided i would try and boot up with a video in card in PCI-E slot 1. No dice. Mobo wont even post. This is frikkin ridiculous. I see an RMA/exchange in my future. From what you guys have said it sounds like it would be a great board. In fact, i love the BIOS, and when it actually boots its really fast, but i shouldnt have to enter a konami code every i start up the computer just to get it to boot. This is by far the most trouble i have ever had with a mobo.


----------



## JollyMan

I have to remove teh video card now just to get into bios or windows...


----------



## JollyMan

If anyone has any other solutions or suggestions I am open to all!!! Otherwise the sabertooth will be in the mail soon and you guys wont have to deal with my complaining in this thread anymore.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> If anyone has any other solutions or suggestions I am open to all!!! Otherwise the sabertooth will be in the mail soon and you guys wont have to deal with my complaining in this thread anymore.


im no expert, but if i was having this many problems, i would have RMAed it already, very well could be something actually wrong with the board.... Probably try and swap it for another of the same model before switching camps, but thats just what I would do. if that fails, sabertooth would look pretty nice to me as well. lol


----------



## Sin0822

you have a 2500K? you still haven't filled out your system specs or anything.

BTW there is a BIOS F7A released today as well.

With 2600K there was an error where the board would not boot instead it would do code 8 and then nothing next to the 8, then reboot and got to the BIOS where only half the screen showed then the do dB and then boot up like nothing happened. I reported it and it was fixed with 2600K, but now it seems the 2500K has that issue, but only on cold boots or something. I have tried repeatedly to make it happen, but it isn't happening. Which makes me think it is memory related or perhaps related to some I/O devices. So i am still trying. I have a crap load of memory to test with some many different manufacturers.

But yea IDK what fixes F7 has put in place. I know the BIOS engineers were on a business trip for the last week, so hopefully this week a lot of these outstanding problems can get dealt with.

Try F7a, you have dual BIOS for a reason, you can always switch between BIOSes.

BTW please update your rig, use the rig builder thing. However your problems are odd, i would RMA it as well.

I also did see a guy with an asus p8z77 had this same issue where the board loops a few times before booting, he had a 2500K too,. so it could be an Intel problem.

You should see the amount of problems with the Z68/P67 boards and the new BIOSes for Ivy Bridge support, they are terrible in the other camp, you see a lot of bricked boards.


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you have a 2500K? you still haven't filled out your system specs or anything.
> BTW there is a BIOS F7A released today as well.
> With 2600K there was an error where the board would not boot instead it would do code 8 and then nothing next to the 8, then reboot and got to the BIOS where only half the screen showed then the do dB and then boot up like nothing happened. I reported it and it was fixed with 2600K, but now it seems the 2500K has that issue, but only on cold boots or something. I have tried repeatedly to make it happen, but it isn't happening. Which makes me think it is memory related or perhaps related to some I/O devices. So i am still trying. I have a crap load of memory to test with some many different manufacturers.
> But yea IDK what fixes F7 has put in place. I know the BIOS engineers were on a business trip for the last week, so hopefully this week a lot of these outstanding problems can get dealt with.
> Try F7a, you have dual BIOS for a reason, you can always switch between BIOSes.
> BTW please update your rig, use the rig builder thing. However your problems are odd, i would RMA it as well.
> I also did see a guy with an asus p8z77 had this same issue where the board loops a few times before booting, he had a 2500K too,. so it could be an Intel problem.
> You should see the amount of problems with the Z68/P67 boards and the new BIOSes for Ivy Bridge support, they are terrible in the other camp, you see a lot of bricked boards.


Really i i had filled out he rig. ***? anyway, I have a 3570k. Do you have a link to the f7a bios? I will make sure i update my rig. Maybe i went about it wrong last time. Going to try and boot without the video card again.


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> im no expert, but if i was having this many problems, i would have RMAed it already, very well could be something actually wrong with the board.... Probably try and swap it for another of the same model before switching camps, but thats just what I would do. if that fails, sabertooth would look pretty nice to me as well. lol


Yeah, I have had gigabyte boards in the past,i mean like back in the prescott days, and had no problems at all. I think i am going to RMA the board and give it another try. Its so stupid that i can actually boot into windows right now, without the use of a stand alone video card. Just surprising that a gaming mobo wont boot with it. So stupid. Anyway, gonna RMA looks like it will be another week before i get it back and running, hopefully. UGH...


----------



## JollyMan

BTW how do i go about making my rig show up in posts? I have created a rig but not sure how to get it to show.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> BTW how do i go about making my rig show up in posts? I have created a rig but not sure how to get it to show.


I gave you instructions back in this post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> After you have filled out that information, go back to your profile page and add the new rig to your signature. Click on "Edit Signature Text" under Your Forum Signature. Underneath the text box, there should be drop-down boxes that say "Show off stuff in your signature." Click on the drop-down box and select your new rig. You can also put a signature in the big text box above if you like. After you're done, just hit "Submit."


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I gave you instructions back in this post:


Sorry i must have missed that, or i mean i obviously missed that. Thanks!

Ok one last attempt before i rip this board out of my case. Anyone have a link to the f7a bios? I went to stasio's link but he just has a link to the previous f7 bios. To be honest i dont think the new beta will work, just because i have had the same issues, no matter what bios i have used.


----------



## stasio

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647

"Previous BetaBIOS"


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Sorry i must have missed that, or i mean i obviously missed that. Thanks!
> Ok one last attempt before i rip this board out of my case. Anyone have a link to the f7a bios? I went to stasio's link but he just has a link to the previous f7 bios. To be honest i dont think the new beta will work, just because i have had the same issues, no matter what bios i have used.


all your problems are due to VISTA... jk. def not the reason, just first person i have seen with vista in a while


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> all your problems are due to VISTA... jk. def not the reason, just first person i have seen with vista in a while


Didnt see the point in upgrading to win 7...gonna wait for Win 8. Just flashed to F7a. Gonna try the vid card. BTW i have adjusted the CPU to 4.3 ghz with no problem.


----------



## Rondik

I had a question I have not had a chance to rebuild my win 7 system since i put build together.

If i want to reinnstall on my crucial m4 ssd drive which is plugged into the intel sata port, do I need to install the intel sata driver during the windows 7 install? I see when I put the cd in it shows the crucial ssd, but also had an option of installing a driver?

Thanks


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> I had a question I have not had a chance to rebuild my win 7 system since i put build together.
> If i want to reinnstall on my crucial m4 ssd drive which is plugged into the intel sata port, do I need to install the intel sata driver during the windows 7 install? I see when I put the cd in it shows the crucial ssd, but also had an option of installing a driver?
> Thanks


No, win 7 has drivers incorporated for install. You will want to update the SATA drivers after installation though. And have a look at this to help you along... http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> No, win 7 has drivers incorporated for install. You will want to update the SATA drivers after installation though. And have a look at this to help you along... http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds


Thank you for the help!

Just curious I know earlier someone told me to use the Intel Sata3 for SSD, but what is the difference between the Intel Sata3 and the Marvell Sata 3? I am looking in manual and does not say why to plug in one vs the other. Why are there 2 controllers and not just have one control all of them?


----------



## DBEAU

I'm not really sure why they have 2 different sata controllers but the Intel controller is faster and supports trim. I was just always told to use the Intel controller because it was better.

Here's what some folks around here had to say on the matter -- http://www.overclock.net/t/1136850/intel-vs-marvell-sata-iii


----------



## Rondik

Thanks I will read that over!

Oh forgot to ask does it matte if the SSD is plugged into the Intel SATA 3 0 or the Intel SATA 3 1?

Basically can I use either one as long as it Intel? Or for better performance use SATA 3 0?


----------



## CircuitFreak

Loving the looks of this board. Having some random boot issues but It may be from working on my OC. Should be able to get 4.7 for a 24/7, temps are capping out in the 85 ish range. I'll post my realtemp shot when I hit my 12h mark. And thanks for the Oc thread for this board has helped a bunch!


----------



## tazmania

I ended up getting the UD3H instead of the Asus P8Z77 mainly because of gigabyte's customer service. I'm pretty sure the differences are minor (other than the wifi card) and the price was slightly lower anyway. Can't wait to start putting it all together


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Sorry i must have missed that, or i mean i obviously missed that. Thanks!
> Ok one last attempt before i rip this board out of my case. Anyone have a link to the f7a bios? I went to stasio's link but he just has a link to the previous f7 bios. To be honest i dont think the new beta will work, just because i have had the same issues, no matter what bios i have used.


It shows up now.
If you have a 3570K you need to RMA your board, something is wrong with it. I have tested the 3570K with this board for many months and haven't had one issue where it acted like that, only with a 2600K did I have that issue. RMA it.


----------



## eaglepowers

Bios F7 fixed my esata issue. So far so good.


----------



## dinos22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Also i have yet to try and boot again with my video card or the other 8 gb of RAM.


Jollyman, you must have a faulty board mate. RMA it

if you experience the same issue after RMA there is some unusual incompatibility but i think do it a step at a time and RMA first and then let's see what happens.


----------



## stasio

UD5H - F8a is out.


----------



## Nicanor

Hy all and especially Sin0822,

I have a 3770k and UD5H and now is working fine but a couple of days ago it gave me a lot of headaches.
I have F6 bios that was put via QFlash and after that i loaded optimal settings. Then i did some little tweaking in the bios (not related to overclock or voltages).
So everything was fine after i build my new rig, i did some benchmarks ... etc.
I shut the pc down for the night and the next morning when i pressed the power button it was dead. Nothing was working. No led was lid .. nothing. Even the power button from the board was closed.
I tried everything but was not responding ( i switched the source, i pushed clear cmos, the reset, everything).
The only symptom was the power led from the power button from the board was blinking for a second when i was pushing the clear cmos button.
Finally i removed the videocard and removed the battery and let the board like this for a couple of minutes.
When i put everything back the rig started and everything since then was ok.
Can you please tell me what happened ? It is bios related ? I should be worried that it may happen again with no reason ?

Thank you.


----------



## Lorien31

Hi all

just joined this club with my new Z77X-UD5H.

I do have a strange problem, maybe its my lack of I7 Sandy CPU.

I was able to oc the vcore till 1.35V and all this the board was setting correctly.
But when i set a higher vcore like 1.36V the bios sets the actual Vcore to something around default ~1.22V.
This way the overclocking doesn't work really ;-)

I have no clue why its doing this, when i set it back to 1.35V i get that again, but anything higher goes back to default.

Are there somehow other Volts i have to increase first like VTT or something like this, or is there something like a over vcore protection somewhere ?

I do currently still have F6 Bios, haven't found the newer ones yet you talked about.

Hope you can help me out here.

Cheers
Lorien


----------



## JollyMan

RMAing. So annoying. Hopefullyi wont have troubles witht he second one. Thanks for the help guys!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> Thanks I will read that over!
> Oh forgot to ask does it matte if the SSD is plugged into the Intel SATA 3 0 or the Intel SATA 3 1?
> Basically can I use either one as long as it Intel? Or for better performance use SATA 3 0?


If the SSD is going to be your boot drive, stick it in SATA3_0. If all you're using is the SSD then it may not matter but if using HDD's as well then I would use _0. I can't give you a technical explanation, just what has worked best for me and my 3 mobo's w/SATA3.


----------



## br030hk

Hi all,

After having series of issues with asrock extreme 4 z77 mobo.. I RMA it and

purchased

GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H LGA 1155 Intel Z77
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (Is this ram compatible with the mobo?)
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W
Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz
EVGA 012-P3-1570-AR GeForce GTX 570

First time builder,... I want to ask if anyone sees any compatibility issues from the components above,

any known bugs or tips so I can build my system successfully? thanks a lot.


----------



## 40.oz to freedom

Just got my 3770k in yesterday install went well everything seemed to be working, then i started freezing in windows and even in the bios, i have tried testing ram individually ive taked both my vid cards out and tested. I have updated bios to f6, and having the same problem i can go into bios and it freezes in like 30 seconds, If anyone had any advice i would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## JollyMan

I had almost that exact same setup. I had issues with my board, so i am currently RMAing. If the new board comes back and i am having problems again then it might be issues with my ram (which is the same as yours.) After putting the system together i tried to boot it. It started doing this wierd pulsing thing then had a post code "19". I then hit reset 2x to get the computer to boot into bios. I updated the bios to the newest (F7) bios. Restarted the computer and it did the exact same thing. Post code "19" then hit reset 2x, then it booted. I installed windows, which very smoothly and quite quick. Restarted, this tieme th epower stayed continuous and it rebooted without my having to do the reset 2x. Went into bios, OC'd to 4.3 ghz without adjusting voltage, rebooted, and booted into windows just fine. I then rebooted again, except this time the computer shut off all the way (without maintaining continuous power) and i had to hit reset 2x when the board posted a "19" on the debug LCD. I decided I would try and boot with a full 16 gb of ram, couldnt even get the debug lcd to post a code. I pulled the extra 8 gb out, hit power button and it posted code "19", hit reset 2x, booted into BIOS. Loaded optimized defaults. Shut down, tried to boot with gtx580 installed. Exact same issue occured as when i had the 16gb ram installed. Couldnt even get the board to post. So, if you have a similar issue to this let me know, then i will have a clue as to whether or not my RAM or video card is causing the issue.

I am not trying to tell you a horror story to scare you away from the mobo, i just wanted inform you so we can work together if you have the same issues.

Like i said i am currently RMAing my board, Sin says I shouldnt be having those issues with a 3570k processor.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *40.oz to freedom*
> 
> Just got my 3770k in yesterday install went well everything seemed to be working, then i started freezing in windows and even in the bios, i have tried testing ram individually ive taked both my vid cards out and tested. I have updated bios to f6, and having the same problem i can go into bios and it freezes in like 30 seconds, If anyone had any advice i would greatly appreciate it.


My 2500k + UD5H freeze issue was due to not being able to properly resume from standby due to "CPU PLL Overvoltage" being automatically turned on by the motherboard. Your freeze issue sounds more like defective hardware since it happens in bios.


----------



## 40.oz to freedom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> My 2500k + UD5H freeze issue was due to not being able to properly resume from standby due to "CPU PLL Overvoltage" being automatically turned on by the motherboard. Your freeze issue sounds more like defective hardware since it happens in bios.


Im thinking its the mobo, everything but the motherboard and processor was running perfectly before i upgraded those two. Anyway thanks for the quick reply + rep.


----------



## 40.oz to freedom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> I had almost that exact same setup. I had issues with my board, so i am currently RMAing. If the new board comes back and i am having problems again then it might be issues with my ram (which is the same as yours.) After putting the system together i tried to boot it. It started doing this wierd pulsing thing then had a post code "19". I then hit reset 2x to get the computer to boot into bios. I updated the bios to the newest (F7) bios. Restarted the computer and it did the exact same thing. Post code "19" then hit reset 2x, then it booted. I installed windows, which very smoothly and quite quick. Restarted, this tieme th epower stayed continuous and it rebooted without my having to do the reset 2x. Went into bios, OC'd to 4.3 ghz without adjusting voltage, rebooted, and booted into windows just fine. I then rebooted again, except this time the computer shut off all the way (without maintaining continuous power) and i had to hit reset 2x when the board posted a "19" on the debug LCD. I decided I would try and boot with a full 16 gb of ram, couldnt even get the debug lcd to post a code. I pulled the extra 8 gb out, hit power button and it posted code "19", hit reset 2x, booted into BIOS. Loaded optimized defaults. Shut down, tried to boot with gtx580 installed. Exact same issue occured as when i had the 16gb ram installed. Couldnt even get the board to post. So, if you have a similar issue to this let me know, then i will have a clue as to whether or not my RAM or video card is causing the issue.
> I am not trying to tell you a horror story to scare you away from the mobo, i just wanted inform you so we can work together if you have the same issues.
> Like i said i am currently RMAing my board, Sin says I shouldnt be having those issues with a 3570k processor.


Completely skipped you post somehow, i tried updated to f6 and f7 bios as well and it made no diference with mine either gonna talk to gigabyte support later this evening and see if we can get it working if not im gonna return it for a refund and grab a diferent brand.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> If the SSD is going to be your boot drive, stick it in SATA3_0. If all you're using is the SSD then it may not matter but if using HDD's as well then I would use _0. I can't give you a technical explanation, just what has worked best for me and my 3 mobo's w/SATA3.


Thanks for the info. I realized last night it is plugged into SATA3_1. I already installed Win 7 on it, but I can easily move it to other port right after it has been installed? I will do it tonight when i get home.. I should not have to reinstall once I move it over?

I have to say after installing it on the SSD and following the guide that someone linked previous, my machine really flies, I did not count exactly but boot up time from power on to desktop was approximately 7-8 seconds.


----------



## MoOseimus

*Hey Guys Im new to the overclocking scene and I have been trying to self teach myself with overclocking and have had this board to 4.3 ( Im looking for a modest overclock ) but while running prime i usually get an error in the 4th core about 56 test down and that's with leaving the volts set to auto , I have heard it is easy to OC this board and the bios doesn't seem to give you a ton of options that i see in alot of the utube videos . Any Advice will be appreciated Thanks .*


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I realized last night it is plugged into SATA3_1. I already installed Win 7 on it, but I can easily move it to other port right after it has been installed? I will do it tonight when i get home.. I should not have to reinstall once I move it over?
> I have to say after installing it on the SSD and following the guide that someone linked previous, my machine really flies, I did not count exactly but boot up time from power on to desktop was approximately 7-8 seconds.


Yeah you should be able to switch it over to SATA3_0 with no problems.

But yeah.. I'm right there with ya, my machine boots up so fast it's unreal.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> *Hey Guys Im new to the overclocking scene and I have been trying to self teach myself with overclocking and have had this board to 4.3 ( Im looking for a modest overclock ) but while running prime i usually get an error in the 4th core about 56 test down and that's with leaving the volts set to auto , I have heard it is easy to OC this board and the bios doesn't seem to give you a ton of options that i see in alot of the utube videos . Any Advice will be appreciated Thanks .*


The only things you have to mess with are the CPU multiplyer and the CPU voltage. If you're getting errors you'll probably have to increase the voltage a little bit.

There are some good sandy bridge overclocking guides in this thread -- http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet


----------



## Chodi

I am one of the unfortunate guys who lives where 3770K is still a dream ( and will probably be so for months). The 3770 non K became available here (Thailand) and I went for it cause I had the itch to upgrade from my 3 year old I7 860. Got a Gigabyte z77X-D3H, set it all up and everything is working......BUT..... The F7 bios will not allow me to modify the Bclk at all (won't let me in). The turbo setting is locked in the bios at the default 39 for the first two cores and won't let me in? Basically, I read that both would be available even to us lowly 3770 non K guys, but it is not. I have many years experience on building computers. I went in knowing I could not move the multiplier on this cpu, but everything I read said the Turbo could be raised 4 bins and the Bclk could be adjusted (if only slightly).

So...has Gigabyte chosen to lock out us non K owners out or is this an Intel thing? If I missed something in this bios which would allow me into the Turbo settings and Bclk please advise? I am feeling very sad about my choice if this thing is completely locked in every direction.

P.S. This board hangs at the post screen for about 20 seconds before it boots into Windows? Seems excessive to me.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Yeah you should be able to switch it over to SATA3_0 with no problems.
> But yeah.. I'm right there with ya, my machine boots up so fast it's unreal.


Yeah so far the system has been rock solid stable at stock speeds, and I have reinstalled twice (first time messed up but install so fast no biggie), and rebooted maybe now 30 times with all the updates after drivers and what not, and so far it seems to be super stable, no boot locks or anything since I upgraded the bios to F6 and hit load optimized defaults on BIOS.

I really have not benchmarked anything or do much testing like with memory to make sure it ok, but coming from a 4 year E8400 this is like night and day.

Just curious what software is used to test to make sure you are getting the Sata 3 Speeds on the SSD?

Maybe this weekend once I put my games back on will try overclocking for the first time, have never messed with it before but will read up on it.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> *Hey Guys Im new to the overclocking scene and I have been trying to self teach myself with overclocking and have had this board to 4.3 ( Im looking for a modest overclock ) but while running prime i usually get an error in the 4th core about 56 test down and that's with leaving the volts set to auto , I have heard it is easy to OC this board and the bios doesn't seem to give you a ton of options that i see in alot of the utube videos . Any Advice will be appreciated Thanks .*


you need increase in vcore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> I am one of the unfortunate guys who lives where 3770K is still a dream ( and will probably be so for months). The 3770 non K became available here (Thailand) and I went for it cause I had the itch to upgrade from my 3 year old I7 860. Got a Gigabyte z77X-D3H, set it all up and everything is working......BUT..... The F7 bios will not allow me to modify the Bclk at all (won't let me in). The turbo setting is locked in the bios at the default 39 for the first two cores and won't let me in? Basically, I read that both would be available even to us lowly 3770 non K guys, but it is not. I have many years experience on building computers. I went in knowing I could not move the multiplier on this cpu, but everything I read said the Turbo could be raised 4 bins and the Bclk could be adjusted (if only slightly).
> So...has Gigabyte chosen to lock out us non K owners out or is this an Intel thing? If I missed something in this bios which would allow me into the Turbo settings and Bclk please advise? I am feeling very sad about my choice if this thing is completely locked in every direction.
> P.S. This board hangs at the post screen for about 20 seconds before it boots into Windows? Seems excessive to me.


yes that is too much time man, it really shouldn't. Please reflash your BIOS and then immediately load optimized defaults. Also I will check, perhaps INtel has changed something, otherwise I will check this issue.


----------



## rageofthepeon

Is there a quick and easy way to adjust CPU fan speed without installing easytune? I thought I remembered reading somewhere there was an option in the bios to switch between silent and normal/performance but I am most likely mistaken.


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rageofthepeon*
> 
> Is there a quick and easy way to adjust CPU fan speed without installing easytune? I thought I remembered reading somewhere there was an option in the bios to switch between silent and normal/performance but I am most likely mistaken.










is that what your looking for?

the option under the one that is highlighted


----------



## Sin0822

yea also where it says CPU fan control mode, Voltage= 3 pin fan connectors, PWM=4pin fan.


----------



## rageofthepeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is that what your looking for?
> the option under the one that is highlighted


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea also where it says CPU fan control mode, Voltage= 3 pin fan connectors, PWM=4pin fan.


Thanks for pointing me in the right direction guys







.


----------



## br030hk

Hi guys,

I just recently purchased ud5h.. also a first time builder,

please allow me to ask some noob questions..

I see some people with great experience mention "Load Optimized Defaults," what does that mean and how can I achieve that?

Also, after putting computer together.. install window 7.. do I download all the drivers from gigabyte site?

List:

Realtek Function driver for Realtek

Chipset:

Intel Management Engine Interface

Intel INF installation

LAN

Intel LAN Driver

Atheros LAN driver

SATA RAID

Intel® Rapid Storage Technology

Intel SATA Preinstall driver
(For AHCI / RAID Mode)

Marvell Storage Utility

Marvell SATA Controller Driver

Marvell Preinstall Driver
Note: Press F6 during Windows setup to read from floppy.

VGA:
Intel VGA Driver

WLAN+BT:

BT Driver

WLAN Driver

Wi-Fi Share

please which ones I can omit and which once are extremely important and necessary... please thank you.

specs:
GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H LGA 1155 Intel Z77
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (Is this ram compatible with the mobo?)
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W
Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz
EVGA 012-P3-1570-AR GeForce GTX 570


----------



## Sin0822

both chipset drivers should be install first, however you might want to install the LAN drivers first to get ont he internet and download the rest. i would install all of them, however you wont be able to install the intel VGA drivers unless you remove your dGPU or set the iGPU to be IGFX Init first.
Load optimized default you do through the BIOS, you goto the advanced menu, to the last page of the BIOS where it says save and exit, but you press the setting called "load optimized defaults" and then save and reboot.


----------



## JollyMan

OK guys. i know that yesterday i decided to go ahead and rma the board. So i got home today and started taking everything apart, and i look behind the board where my waterblock attaches to the back of the cpu socket and noticed i didnt quite put it on right. So I think, "maybe the bracket was shorting out the board?" I decide to put it all back together, put in 8gbs of RAM, plug int he power and hit the start button. BOOM, on comes the comp, like nothing was wrong. So get into windows and mess around just to make sure it was all good. I restart the comp and it comes back up without a hitch. So I reset again, go into the bios and enable xmp profile1. restart and here comes the problems. The board debug LCD post a "19", i hit reset and the board boots back into bios. I load optimized defaults and the comp boots up again, no problem. Apparently this ram wont run at the stated 1.35v? I dont know. Not that big of a deal to me. So then i decide to throw the extra 8 gb of ram, to a sum of 16gb. Restart and and i get the post code "19". I reset and get into bios and load optimize defaults, reboot and bam, right back into windows. Ok so assume that maybe my watercooling blocks bracket was shorting out the board.

Now for the video card. I unplug power and install the video card, which requires an 8-pin and 6-pin connection. I try to boot and i get exactly what i was getting yesterday. Unable to post a code or even hit the reset to get into bios. I pull the card out and boot then get the "19" post code i got before. I reset and get into bios, load optimize defaults, and it now boots into windows just fine. So the big question is...does this point to a bad video card? Also, do i need to have the pci-e power (for the board) plugged in? Please help if you're listening.







Also, i posted this with the 16gb of ram. going to try and reset to see if it comes back up.


----------



## gokumhz

Hey Guys,

Just got my rig put together last night, got the gigabyte z77 UD5H and an intel 3570k (I'll update my sig). I used the sysprep method that was mentioned a long ways back in this thread, and gotta say, my first time trying that method and it worked wonderfully, all I had to do was load the new drivers for the mainboard after I got into windows.

I did have a couple questions and maybe sin or someone can give me some info.

1. I was able to install all the drivers fine (downloaded all the latest drivers off gigabytes website), except for one, the intel management engine software. I noticed windows 7 put in it's own driver, and when the driver off the website (also tried the one off the cd) tries to load, it gets part way through the process and has an error, something about unable to initialize a module or something like that. Anyone else get this? Do I need the updated driver?

2. The board came default with Bios version F4, I know the official version out right now is F6, and F8 is the current beta bios. My question is, my system seems to be rock solid right now, no problems at all, haven't run any stress tests, but gamed with it all night last night in a few games with max settings to see what the difference was (old system was an i5-760 and have to say I notice a HUGE difference, I can pretty much max out some games 1680x1050 and it's glass smooth). Anyway, I noticed most the updates so far have been to address issues with sandy bridge, should I update my Bios? or leave things alone for now? I've noticed they almost seem to come out with a new beta bios daily, so figured I'd wait for the dust to settle and update when they get all the kinks worked out (don't fix it if it's not broke).

So, definitely impressed with the board and the processor, love the onboard intel lan (one of the reasons I picked it), and the onboard audio is actually pretty descent (have an old xfi kicking around, but may get something newer later).

Thanks in advance for any input


----------



## Sin0822

if you don't have problems then do not update your BIOS, that is just common sense. unless you need to update it, then you should update it.

The Intel ME is very important for in-windows OC, however if you don't OC within windows, which is only really good for benching, then don't worry too much about it. But I am not sure how well some of the Intel features might work, but as i remember ME is only needed for OC stuff. You would want to download the new version from the site.

BTW yea the audio is impressive for on-board, however ALC898 is the top notch ALC codec, they don't' really come any better from realtek, it has some really damn good specs, and the lindrivers/amps on the board that GB added are really what adds that good sound.

*Jolly Man*- you really shoudln't be hanging every time you ad memory and mess with GPU, as far as i know the board doesn't halt booting whether or not you have a GPU installed or not. Perhaps the short in the back messed up the board a bit, IMO you should RMA it, it still sounds like you have issues. I for one haven't landed on code 19 yet.


----------



## Snakes

Oops, never mind.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I just recently purchased ud5h.. also a first time builder,
> please allow me to ask some noob questions..
> I see some people with great experience mention "Load Optimized Defaults," what does that mean and how can I achieve that?
> Also, after putting computer together.. install window 7.. do I download all the drivers from gigabyte site?


I am not sure if what I did was right but here goes.

After installing Windows 7, first thing I did was install the chipset driver by using the CD/DVD that came with the motherboard. I rebooted and after that I installed almost every single driver on there, except for I think the On/Off charge, not sure I would ever use it. Oh also did not install the VGA or anything to do with Lucid, figured I get to that later not even sure if it worth it.

I am not sure if the drivers on the CD are old, but I just look at the date of the drivers on the website and they all look at least 2-3+ months old.


----------



## Sin0822

yea and also don't install splashdot or whatever it is lol.


----------



## br030hk

Thank you (Sin0822, Rondik,) very much for the advices and tips

Visited couple electronic stores such as fry's and bestbuy and in neither places was I able to get my questions answered as straightforward as here. Its truly helpful for a first time builder. All components should be here by Saturday I'll be back to ask questions if I run into any problems. thanks.


----------



## Chodi

Sin0822 you nailed it. I re-flashed the bios (same F7) and my Post screen hang vanished. Unfortunately, the other complaints about the completely locked bios has not changed. The last time I saw a bios with such limited active options was when I have helped friends with things like stock Dell or Gateway "off the shelf" computers. It may be that I missed some bios setting on this Gigabyte Z77X-D3H that will unlock some bios settings for me. Failing that, this thing has not given me any real boost over my overclocked i7 860 except for Sata 3. I have not yet noticed any real advantage to Sata 3 as my boot time with my OCZ Vertex 4 SSD is the same as it was with the i7 860. I am going to run some benches today.

Really anxious to hear you report back on the locked bios. Thanks for the help.


----------



## br030hk

Excuse me, for the ud5h, do you guys flash bios with @bios? Is it safe?
Thanks


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Yeah you should be able to switch it over to SATA3_0 with no problems.
> But yeah.. I'm right there with ya, my machine boots up so fast it's unreal.


Ok so here is a weird issue.

I decided tonight as soon as I get home to swtich it to SATA3_0 the other white port right next to it.

When i did that it booted up and then I realized it booted off my old western digital hard drive. I am like huh?

So I went into BIOS, and while it showed the Crucial M4 in the list of ports, it would not show up in Boot Priority, I had no option to pick SSD.

I then switched it back to SATA3_1 and bingo booted right up?

Is that strange or what? In the meantime I deleted the boot partition off that old Western Digital, so it won't boot off that anymore. When I did the install of Win 7, i made sure to disconnect all my old drives first, and then plug them in after.

Should I just leave it on SATA3_1, or try to figure this out?


----------



## BearKSB

Sin0822, read a lot your pre-sales stuff, really good reads. I agree with not touching the BIOS if it is working, but with F4 I was having to set the cpu to 1.3 v to get it stable for 4.5GHz. I seriously thought i had a horrible chip. However, once I installed the BIOS F6, I can now get it stable at 1.24v. Is that normal? Anyone experience this?

I used Intel burn test to test stability.

Z77-UD5H


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Excuse me, for the ud5h, do you guys flash bios with @bios? Is it safe?
> Thanks


@bios is frowned upon. Use Qflash from within the bios.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> Ok so here is a weird issue.
> I decided tonight as soon as I get home to swtich it to SATA3_0 the other white port right next to it.
> When i did that it booted up and then I realized it booted off my old western digital hard drive. I am like huh?
> So I went into BIOS, and while it showed the Crucial M4 in the list of ports, it would not show up in Boot Priority, I had no option to pick SSD.
> I then switched it back to SATA3_1 and bingo booted right up?
> Is that strange or what? In the meantime I deleted the boot partition off that old Western Digital, so it won't boot off that anymore. When I did the install of Win 7, i made sure to disconnect all my old drives first, and then plug them in after.
> Should I just leave it on SATA3_1, or try to figure this out?


Leaving it on SATA3_1 is fine. There wont be any difference if its on SATA3_0 anyway.

edit: I would probably end up trying to get it to work on SATA3_0 just because I'm a little OCD like that. Sometimes little things like that bother me. But you're not going to gain anything from switching it to SATA3_0 aside from maybe personal satisfaction


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Leaving it on SATA3_1 is fine. There wont be any difference if its on SATA3_0 anyway.
> edit: I would probably end up trying to get it to work on SATA3_0 just because I'm a little OCD like that. Sometimes little things like that bother me. But you're not going to gain anything from switching it to SATA3_0 aside from maybe personal satisfaction


I am going to try one more time...Just to see.

I am going to unplug all devices but the SSD, and then move it back to SATA3_0

And then go into bios and do that option to load optmized defaults, and if that dont work will reinstall windows 7 just for kicks, i mean it only take 10-15 minutes to install anyway and I have not got far


----------



## Rondik

ok so it worked now, after i plugged it back in SATA3_0 and went into bios and andd load optmized defaults.

The strangest thing though is in BIOS I am down to Boot Option #1 and Boot Option #2, before I had 3 options, not only that the SSD does not even show in there, only time I see the SSD is under Hard Drive BBS priorites

But it working so I will leave it.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearKSB*
> 
> Sin0822, read a lot your pre-sales stuff, really good reads. I agree with not touching the BIOS if it is working, but with F4 I was having to set the cpu to 1.3 v to get it stable for 4.5GHz. I seriously thought i had a horrible chip. However, once I installed the BIOS F6, I can now get it stable at 1.24v. Is that normal? Anyone experience this?
> I used Intel burn test to test stability.
> Z77-UD5H


it could be due to the fact that perhaps you needed a fresh BIOS flash, perhaps also the LLC is engaged on auto with BIOS F6.


----------



## coolhandluke41

can someone post link to CPU-Z that shows correct Vcore on Gb/UD5H
Thanks


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> can someone post link to CPU-Z that shows correct Vcore on Gb/UD5H
> Thanks


I have tested the following one with my 2600K on a UD5H, and it seems that it is working correctly (shows Vcore instead of Vtt):

CPU-Z 1.60.1 (64-bit)

I can only assume that it works with IB too.

More utilities here.


----------



## r0ach

DPC Latency is even lower with 8a UD5H BIOS, but I think the mouse feels a little different from F6 when minimum DPC was higher. Not sure if it's a step backwards or improvement yet:



Still get huge DPC spikes once every few minutes with 8A just like previous BIOS. Didn't have these spikes with all the same hardware hooked to a Sabertooth 55i motherboard with i5-760:


----------



## Chodi

Well, here is an update for anyone like me using the z77X-D3H with a non K IVY. (3770 in my case). First, flash to the latest bios (F7) and load optimized defaults, and reboot. Do not do a restart do a shut down and then re-boot. I got in trouble with the restart approach ( corrupted bios that still booted but did strange things). Next disable everything including on board graphics and all the turbo and power saving stuff. Then in 3D Bios only find clock setting and multiplier setting (it will be a slider). Move that sucker as far to the right as you like it will be limited by your processor. In my case it gave me a multi of up to 41. I have only used it up to 39 cause I did not want to play with voltages yet. DO NOT TRY TO DO THIS IN ADVANCED SETTINGS. It will not work at all if you do. It only worked for me in 3D Bios. Perhaps they will fix that in a future release. Also in 3D bios you may change your Bclk but be careful and don't try to gain much there.

Without any voltage changes this got me to a stable 3.9Mhz clock and I now know it will go farther even on my non K cpu. Just note they probably did not test this much in bios settings for us non K folks so you need to do it like I did to get it working. Played with it for hours till I realized the advanced settings just don't work on my cpu.


----------



## UNOE

Sin0822 I have a few questions
How will a GA-Z68X-UD7-B3 do with memory Overclocking with a 3770K I see better memory yields people are getting do you need a z77 board for this ?
Gigabyte's site for GA-Z68X-UD7-B3 says under "Overview" it has a nice looking logo with PCIE 3. Yet under "Specifications" there is no 3.0 mentioned, so what is the truth ?
Also if I have z68 paired with a 3770K rather than z77 what am I missing out on ?

I currently have 2133 ram that I can't stabilize at high CPU clocks with my 2700K. I also have two water cooled 7970's I might plan to do 7990 and 7970 in the future.


----------



## -Ste-

at least the boot loops i was having seemed to have gone *touch wood*

edit spoke to soon i guess


----------



## r0ach

Has anyone else's XMP profile option disappeared from their BIOS while using a 2500k + UD5H? I had it in the BIOS the board shipped with, now it's gone. This screenshot shows where the option originally was:



Using Samsung 30nm sticks.


----------



## SuperKW

Hi guys









i have UD5H board with i7 2600k, i downloaded gigabyte tweak launcher and im getting error messages when i start it,its only works with ivy bridge ?

Thanks


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperKW*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have UD5H board with i7 2600k, i downloaded gigabyte tweak launcher and im getting error messages when i start it,its only works with ivy bridge ?
> Thanks


Only with IB.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> DPC Latency is even lower with 8a UD5H BIOS, but I think the mouse feels a little different from F6 when minimum DPC was higher. Not sure if it's a step backwards or improvement yet:
> 
> Still get huge DPC spikes once every few minutes with 8A just like previous BIOS. Didn't have these spikes with all the same hardware hooked to a Sabertooth 55i motherboard with i5-760:


There is someone on the TT forum that says he is having audio dropouts at large intervals while watching video. So there may very well be a latency problem with either board/bios/software. FYI.
I haven't had time to do any listening on my rig yet so don't know if the problem exists for me.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> DPC Latency is even lower with 8a UD5H BIOS, but I think the mouse feels a little different from F6 when minimum DPC was higher. Not sure if it's a step backwards or improvement yet:
> Still get huge DPC spikes once every few minutes with 8A just like previous BIOS. Didn't have these spikes with all the same hardware hooked to a Sabertooth 55i motherboard with i5-760:


r0ach,

I'm not too familiar with latency issues; wish I had learned about this a long time ago because it might have explained a few issues I had with previous rigs.
Anyway, I wondered what conditions your DPC test was done under, for example Windows Idle, or while running a program?
I would be interested in doing a comparative test.

- Steve


----------



## gokumhz

Quick question, I noticed on my debug display it's always showing code A0 (initializing hard drives), this is while in windows and gaming. Is that normal? everything is working fine, just wondering why that code is always displayed.

Thanks


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gokumhz*
> 
> Quick question, I noticed on my debug display it's always showing code A0 (initializing hard drives), this is while in windows and gaming. Is that normal? everything is working fine, just wondering why that code is always displayed.
> Thanks


My Z77X-UD5H reports the same once it has loaded windows 7. I believe it is normal.


----------



## gokumhz

Alright, thanks, just wanted to make sure to be on the safe side









Also if anyone else has run into this, I was unable to load the intel management engine software off the CD or from the gigabyte website for this board, it gave me an error during the install. I ended up getting a newer version of the driver off of tweak town's Gigabyte forums, they had it under the latest software thread, and it loaded up fine.


----------



## CHEFFY!

How do I adjust my Vcore voltage on the Z77UD3H board? It's set to auto for a 4.2ghz overclock on my 3570 which is stable. But its sitting at 1.260 and would like to take it down a bit. In the bios, it shows it starting at .800 for vcore adjustments, so does that mean its adding .800 to the default value? Or its going to set the vcore to .800?


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> DPC Latency is even lower with 8a UD5H BIOS, but I think the mouse feels a little different from F6 when minimum DPC was higher. Not sure if it's a step backwards or improvement yet:
> Still get huge DPC spikes once every few minutes with 8A just like previous BIOS. Didn't have these spikes with all the same hardware hooked to a Sabertooth 55i motherboard with i5-760:


OK, just tried the DPC Latency Test on my system.
Running this test while playing HD video and simultaneous busy internet activity (to exercise LAN ports etc), no sign of the large spikes here.
Keep in mind that I have no plug-in cards installed.
Suggests to me that your spike issue may not be directly related to the motherboard integrated peripherals, but perhaps interaction with your video or sound cards?
A few people are reporting difficulties with using video cards that apparently worked OK on other systems. Perhaps there's still an underlying issue with the PCI Express support?

- Steve


----------



## spena

hey guys just looking for tips how to get my 3570K/UD5H achieve 24/7 4.5GHz @ <1.125v. Currently stable on prim blend 10hours at 4.4GHz at 1.26v (1.28v Bios) on F7.

my bios settings are auto on cpu vtt, auto on cpu pll, turbo vcore llc (auto on other llc), disabled power saving options and disabled turbo boost. flash ing to F8g tonight.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHEFFY!*
> 
> How do I adjust my Vcore voltage on the Z77UD3H board? It's set to auto for a 4.2ghz overclock on my 3570 which is stable. But its sitting at 1.260 and would like to take it down a bit. In the bios, it shows it starting at .800 for vcore adjustments, so does that mean its adding .800 to the default value? Or its going to set the vcore to .800?


YOu just need to type in the voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spena*
> 
> hey guys just looking for tips how to get my 3570K/UD5H achieve 24/7 4.5GHz @ <1.125v. Currently stable on prim blend 10hours at 4.4GHz at 1.26v (1.28v Bios) on F7.
> my bios settings are auto on cpu vtt, auto on cpu pll, turbo vcore llc (auto on other llc), disabled power saving options and disabled turbo boost. flash ing to F8g tonight.


I don't think you can do 4.5ghz at less than 1.125v lol, but less than 1.26v possible. Try lowering CPU PLL see if that helps.

Hey I also did a review of the UD3H here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1252290/z77x-ud3h-review-and-oc-testing-circuit-analysis-ln2-runs-efficiency-comparison


----------



## spena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> YOu just need to type in the voltage.
> I don't think you can do 4.5ghz at less than 1.125v lol, but less than 1.26v possible. Try lowering CPU PLL see if that helps.
> Hey I also did a review of the UD3H here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1252290/z77x-ud3h-review-and-oc-testing-circuit-analysis-ln2-runs-efficiency-comparison


lol typo had to rush this post before a meeting







i mean to say 4.5GHz @ <1.25v
I'll try lowering the pll from stock tonight. thanks for the feedback.


----------



## stasio

Where you got F8g for UD5H?


----------



## spena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Where you got F8g for UD5H?


edit:
sorry misread it, f8g is for ud3h. current for ud5h is f8a


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spena*
> 
> @ tweaktown, was released yday


lol stasio is the guy who posts the BIOSes, But i still don't see a F8G? I see f8g for UD3H, and F8A for the UD5H, but no F8G for the UD5H.

lol.


----------



## stasio

^+1


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune*
> 
> Well, I got Virtu MVP to finally work. I had to do a complete reinstall since I screwed up my driver installation order.
> I pretty much did it in the following order using the drivers on Gigabyte's motherboard website:
> 1. Windows 7 Installation (Pre-installed Intel Raid Drivers)
> 2. Intel Management Engine Interface
> 3. Intel INF Installation
> 4. Intel Rapid Storage Technology
> 5. Intel VGA Driver
> 5. Marvell Sata controller
> 6. Marvel Storage Utility (I don't think this one is necessary)
> 7. Intel LAN Driver
> 8. Atheros LAN Driver
> 9. Intel USB 3.0 Driver
> 10. Wireless Drivers
> 11. Nvidia Drivers (270.?? WQHL)
> All of my display outputs are working properly now. I think LucidVirtu MVP has some issues with some more of the recent Nvidia drivers, so I took Sin's advice and rolled some older drivers to much success. I hope this helps anyone else.
> Thanks again to Sin for the help and recommendation. This motherboard is awesome (Z77-UD5). Its boot time is significantly faster than its P67 counterparts I used.


Could you please help me out as I am unable to get mvp to install correctly. I keep getting error message "wrong gpu config". I enabled the
iGPU in the bios as per Sin, and plugged my monitor into the igpu on mobo, installed the igpu drivers so now I can get an output using just
the igpu. I have then disconnected from igpu and connected monitor to the dgpu and installed its drivers and can get an output from the
dgpu. I then downloaded mvp from gigabyte site and installed, but keep getting the error message. I assume after you have installed the
igpu that you go back into the bios and switch the setting back to "auto" instead of "igpx". I tried it both ways and same error message. also,
do you have to have monitor connected to both igpu and dgpu at same time?

Thanks


----------



## Sin0822

yea do this, go back to how you had it after the first step, i think both iGPU and dGPU need to be enabled, so just plug back into the iGPU after setting display first to IGFX, leave your dGPU plugged in.


----------



## jonnyd91

I already had everything in the above list installed. All i had to do to get this to work was go into bios and set Integrated Graphics from auto to enabled, save and reboot. Then when it rebooted in the device manager i saw the video adapter. Then i installed the driver and MVP and it all worked. I thought i was going to re install windows after seeing the list, but i did not have to. I don't think it really matters with the order of install of the drivers. I also did not even have to plug the monitor into the on board port.


----------



## jonnyd91

Where can i get the latest non-beta bios from? gigabytes site only is showing F5.


----------



## barkeater

OK, I have the monitor plugged into the dpgu (dvi) and into the igpu (d-sub). I have the bios set so that the ini display first is set to auto and the igpu is enabled. Tried to run the mvp and same error message. should I have ini display set to peg?

OK, finally got it working. Guess I had never installed the Intel HD driver and once I did that all was good. On to the next thing.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnyd91*
> 
> Where can i get the latest non-beta bios from? gigabytes site only is showing F5.


Here

There are both final and beta releases in that list.


----------



## jonnyd91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Here
> There are both final and beta releases in that list.


Thank You Sir


----------



## br030hk

Sorry i have quick beginner question. When your flashing bios, lets say from F4, and you want to flash F8a. Do you have to go in order, F4, F5... eventually F8a? or can you just go straight to F8a. Thanks.

And also, from the bios list, how can you tell which ones are final release and which ones are beta bios? thanks again.


----------



## 0CALEFACTION0

Would you guys suggest a GA-Z77X UD5H for my next build?


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Sorry i have quick beginner question. When your flashing bios, lets say from F4, and you want to flash F8a. Do you have to go in order, F4, F5... eventually F8a? or can you just go straight to F8a. Thanks.
> And also, from the bios list, how can you tell which ones are final release and which ones are beta bios? thanks again.


There is no need to load intermediate versions of the BIOS - Just load the one you need.
Usually the beta versions of BIOS have a final letter suffix (e.g. F8a), whereas a final released version has no such suffix (e.g. F8)
Having said that, the "configuration control" isn't always perfect. Sometimes "final" versions get leaked and withdrawn later if a problem is found with them. It's not even unknown for a "final" version to get replaced with another (slightly different) "final" version with the same number a while later (e.g. Z77X-UD5H version F6). I design electronics for aircraft myself - I'd get in big trouble for doing that kinda thing


----------



## Rondik

A question I had what plugs into HW_PWR? I was just looking at the manual and says it is for chipset LED?

I never plugged anything into it, but not sure exactly what I am missing and where to plug it in from? It looks like it is 2 pins? I don't recall having that on my last mobo.

Thanks


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Sorry i have quick beginner question. When your flashing bios, lets say from F4, and you want to flash F8a. Do you have to go in order, F4, F5... eventually F8a? or can you just go straight to F8a. Thanks.
> And also, from the bios list, how can you tell which ones are final release and which ones are beta bios? thanks again.


you can go stright to the bios you want

if its not on here http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#bios its properly a beta


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> A question I had what plugs into HW_PWR? I was just looking at the manual and says it is for chipset LED?
> I never plugged anything into it, but not sure exactly what I am missing and where to plug it in from? It looks like it is 2 pins? I don't recall having that on my last mobo.
> Thanks


Looking at my manual, if you mean HP_PWR I think it's for people who have LED lights on their CPU heatsink fan.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> A question I had what plugs into HW_PWR? I was just looking at the manual and says it is for chipset LED?
> I never plugged anything into it, but not sure exactly what I am missing and where to plug it in from? It looks like it is 2 pins? I don't recall having that on my last mobo.
> Thanks


I'm fairly sure that it was intended to power LEDs on the heatsink which Gigabyte later decided not to fit to this motherboard model.
It could be used to power anything that needs 12 volts DC at fairly low power, for example some case lightning.


----------



## Rondik

Oh ok at least I knew I did not forget anything =) Thanks =)


----------



## MoOseimus

Thanks for the info guys i will def try some of these Oc's


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Sorry i have quick beginner question. When your flashing bios, lets say from F4, and you want to flash F8a. Do you have to go in order, F4, F5... eventually F8a? or can you just go straight to F8a. Thanks.
> And also, from the bios list, how can you tell which ones are final release and which ones are beta bios? thanks again.


IMO flash directly to the latest beta BIOS for your board, goto tweaktown forums, download the BIOS ROM file. Format a flash drive in FAT32, and load just hte BIOS file onto the flash drive. Go into the advanced mode in the BIOS and press F8, QFLASH will come up and select the BIOS and follow the instructions.

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: after you flash hit "reboot", then go back into advanced mode in the BIOS and goto the last page, and select "load optimized defaults", then save and exit, and go back into the BIOS and set whatever you want.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0CALEFACTION0*
> 
> Would you guys suggest a GA-Z77X UD5H for my next build?


Sure!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> A question I had what plugs into HW_PWR? I was just looking at the manual and says it is for chipset LED?
> I never plugged anything into it, but not sure exactly what I am missing and where to plug it in from? It looks like it is 2 pins? I don't recall having that on my last mobo.
> Thanks


I have no idea why they left it on there, if you are a modder, you can prob use it for your own LEDs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Looking at my manual, if you mean HP_PWR I think it's for people who have LED lights on their CPU heatsink fan.


Listen to Snakes^^ and Fasty!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> Thanks for the info guys i will def try some of these Oc's


Good luck man!!!


----------



## UNOE

reposting this because it was skipped:
Sin0822 I have a few questions
How will a GA-Z68X-UD7-B3 do with memory Overclocking with a 3770K I see better memory yields people are getting do you need a z77 board for this ?
Gigabyte's site for GA-Z68X-UD7-B3 says under "Overview" it has a nice looking logo with PCIE 3. Yet under "Specifications" there is no 3.0 mentioned, so what is the truth ?
Also if I have z68 paired with a 3770K rather than z77 what am I missing out on ?

I currently have 2133 ram that I can't stabilize at high CPU clocks with my 2700K. I also have two water cooled 7970's I might plan to do 7990 and 7970 in the future.


----------



## fasty

Hey Sin0822,
You heard any update about including a BIOS switch for the PLL OV enable/disable, have you? Hope GB don't forget that for us Sandy Bridge users!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> reposting this because it was skipped:
> Sin0822 I have a few questions
> How will a GA-Z68X-UD7-B3 do with memory Overclocking with a 3770K I see better memory yields people are getting do you need a z77 board for this ?
> Gigabyte's site for GA-Z68X-UD7-B3 says under "Overview" it has a nice looking logo with PCIE 3. Yet under "Specifications" there is no 3.0 mentioned, so what is the truth ?
> Also if I have z68 paired with a 3770K rather than z77 what am I missing out on ?
> I currently have 2133 ram that I can't stabilize at high CPU clocks with my 2700K. I also have two water cooled 7970's I might plan to do 7990 and 7970 in the future.


Hey sorry I didn't see your post.
Memory OC wont be as good as on Z77, your max memory multiplier will be 21.33 on Z68







It really shouldn't say PCI-E 3.0? Can you show me?

The Z77 boards are much better with Ivy Bridge than Z68, they OC the CPUs higher, as there are a lot of issues with Ivy Bridge and Z68 OCing, intel just doesn't have their act together, the BIOS updates are bricking boards from other makers(these are BIOSes that allow multiplier change above turbo ratio of the Ivy CPUs), as well as providing issues. Like you can take a look at the thread over at XS for the Maximus 4 Extreme and see what I mean. Also Z77 will OC the BCLK MUCH higher than Z68, perhaps because the PCH is better(it runs 0.8W hotter i think too), or because companies made it better. LIke with Z77 you can do 110mhz BCLK like a piece of cake on these GB boards under LN2, and 107 is average on air. Also expect performance to be higher with Z77 for the Ivy CPUs as the boards are more finely tuned for Ivy.

Yea that issue not being able to stabilize might have to do with the amount of memory you are trying to OC, Ivy is really good with memory, SB has issues running 16GB, especially not at 2133mhz, you will need Ivy to do that correctly.

GB should be releasing BIOSes in the next week or two that allow multiplier changes for the new Ivy Bridge CPUs above turbo ratios, hopefully they will be better than those from other manufacturers, besides the Dual BIOS will protect you, so i don't want to scare you, but that thread on the M4E is a bit scary. You can also read some on ASRock, but i don't think asrock has gotten multiplier changes in their Z68 boards for Ivy yet, i know Intel hasn't for most of their boards, and the ones they did have issues.

IMO Intel can say the CPU is compatible, but OCing is turning out to be not so great with IB on Z68. sorry







the UD7 is such a beautiful board, well how about this, when the BIOS comes out, I have the same board, the Z68X-UD7, i will check it out for you and let you know, how does that sound? I also have 2133mhz of 16GB memory, i can test for you too.







Oh i also do have 3770K and 3570K.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> Hey Sin0822,
> You heard any update about including a BIOS switch for the PLL OV enable/disable, have you? Hope GB don't forget that for us Sandy Bridge users!


No update yet, like i said the BIOS guys are on a biz trip, so it might be next week.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Getting a bit friendly with her







,can't wait to start cranking some RAM ,here are some cheap S GSkill X


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey sorry I didn't see your post.
> Memory OC wont be as good as on Z77, your max memory multiplier will be 21.33 on Z68
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It really shouldn't say PCI-E 3.0? Can you show me?
> The Z77 boards are much better with Ivy Bridge than Z68, they OC the CPUs higher, as there are a lot of issues with Ivy Bridge and Z68 OCing, intel just doesn't have their act together, the BIOS updates are bricking boards from other makers(these are BIOSes that allow multiplier change above turbo ratio of the Ivy CPUs), as well as providing issues. Like you can take a look at the thread over at XS for the Maximus 4 Extreme and see what I mean. Also Z77 will OC the BCLK MUCH higher than Z68, perhaps because the PCH is better(it runs 0.8W hotter i think too), or because companies made it better. LIke with Z77 you can do 110mhz BCLK like a piece of cake on these GB boards under LN2, and 107 is average on air. Also expect performance to be higher with Z77 for the Ivy CPUs as the boards are more finely tuned for Ivy.
> Yea that issue not being able to stabilize might have to do with the amount of memory you are trying to OC, Ivy is really good with memory, SB has issues running 16GB, especially not at 2133mhz, you will need Ivy to do that correctly.
> GB should be releasing BIOSes in the next week or two that allow multiplier changes for the new Ivy Bridge CPUs above turbo ratios, hopefully they will be better than those from other manufacturers, besides the Dual BIOS will protect you, so i don't want to scare you, but that thread on the M4E is a bit scary. You can also read some on ASRock, but i don't think asrock has gotten multiplier changes in their Z68 boards for Ivy yet, i know Intel hasn't for most of their boards, and the ones they did have issues.
> IMO Intel can say the CPU is compatible, but OCing is turning out to be not so great with IB on Z68. sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the UD7 is such a beautiful board, well how about this, when the BIOS comes out, I have the same board, the Z68X-UD7, i will check it out for you and let you know, how does that sound? I also have 2133mhz of 16GB memory, i can test for you too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh i also do have 3770K and 3570K.
> No update yet, like i said the BIOS guys are on a biz trip, so it might be next week.


+1
It has a logo right on the main page for the motherboard on there site http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3847#ov and also it says "Designed for PCI Express Gen.3 Support" it didn't seem right to me thats why I asked.

Thanks for all the answers. It makes since it might have OC compatibility issues between IB and SB thats what Iactuallyy was assuming I just want to ask before I go buy I board I might just have to get z77 anyway. Thanks for being willing to test some of those things for me, it might not be necessary if I go out and buy z77 and I might just do it because my two 7970 are slightly slower due to nf200 I think my benchmarks are about 5% lower because of it. So I have a few reasons to upgrade the whole system memory speeds, GPU bottlekneck (nf200 and PCIE 2.0), and my 2700K isn't the best clocker, plus I would like some PCIE supplemented power like gigabyte added to these boards.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Getting a bit friendly with her
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,can't wait to start cranking some RAM ,here is cheap S GSkill X
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I looks like you aren't running LinX with the latest Linpack (and/or you don't have SP1 for Windows 7 installed). Go here and download the LinX that says "new library" next to it. It will run a lot hotter with the correct Linpack.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I looks like you aren't running LinX with the latest Linpack (and/or you don't have SP1 for Windows 7 installed). Go here and download the LinX that says "new library" next to it. It will run a lot hotter with the correct Linpack.


Yeah i know ,i have all this "stuff" from previous buid ( did OS reinstall on SSD) so i used it ,just installed SP1 and don't plan on running LinX SP1/AVX on this chip @that frequency/H20
Thanks


----------



## Rondik

Here is a question for my front case where I can plug headphones, I have two connectors they are sort of split of eachother, one for HD Audio, and the other says AC97.

Which one should I use? to plug into the onboard audio? Does it matter?

I am guessing HD audio but not sure which is better.

Also in the manual it says to make sure you connect it properly or can damage something, it looks like my Case has them all in one block and cannot change how to plug it in. I take it that means it does not matter how I plug it in? since don't have many choices.


----------



## samwiches

KB and mouse don't work in Windows on ANY of the USB ports. Help.

Can anyone at least tell me which ones are supposed to work? The Intel ports? Which ones are they? Please PM as I am on a mobile phone.

Z77X-UD3H

Ffffffffffff

Omg, NM.. its the ones under the network port. they just take awhile to come on. Sry


----------



## samwiches

Wait a minute. They don't work in Windows setup.

What do I do??


----------



## gizmoman0

are you on the latest bios? i read a guy had a logitech g510 and the bios didnt detect until he flashed f6


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmoman0*
> 
> are you on the latest bios? i read a guy had a logitech g510 and the bios didnt detect until he flashed f6


Just flashed F8 and no help. USB goes dead when setup starts.


----------



## Sin0822

change xhci from smart auto to just auto.


----------



## Randy12345

hey guys i gotta question about the ud5h .... i got everything installed and seems to be working fine, just want to know if your motherboard is always showing a code..... when it boots up it seems to go through a few codes and numbers pretty fast then stays at A0.

In the manual is says a0 - IDE initalization is started.

What exactly does this mean? this is my first computer build

also my boot times seem to take some time and my original keyboard does not work untill windows starts, I am on bios f4


----------



## samwiches

Randy that sounds like nothing. My board is showing it too, cause that is probably the last check point from POST before going to the OS drive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> change xhci from smart auto to just auto.


Thanks, underway.

I'll be back.


----------



## Randy12345

ok good thanks


----------



## Harry604

i got a quick qestion

i wanna put my video card in the very top and very bottom pcie slot, so i have a big gap between the cards for airflow
but when i do i cant activate sli my 2nd card doesnt show up... do i need ivy bridge cpu to use all 3 pcie lanes..

im using a 2500k


----------



## Rondik

I just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone here especially Sin for reviewing this board.

I finally got a chance to play BF3 after building this week, and what an amazing difference from my last 4 year old machine, playing everything on ultra @ 1080p is just mind blowing and getting anywhere from 73 - 100 FPS, smooth as butter, rock solid stable.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> i got a quick qestion
> 
> i wanna put my video card in the very top and very bottom pcie slot, so i have a big gap between the cards for airflow
> but when i do i cant activate sli my 2nd card doesnt show up... do i need ivy bridge cpu to use all 3 pcie lanes..
> 
> im using a 2500k


Looks like your board does three modes like normal:

16x
8x + 8x
8x + 8x + 4x


----------



## Harry604

hmmm i wanna run sli using the 1st and 3rd slot...


----------



## samwiches

Never heard of that. The third/last slot is normally for: Tri-SLI (4x), or a dedicated PhysX card to support one or two GPU's


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Have the 3570K for almost 1 Week now. So lazy to Overclock it. 3.4Ghz does fine for Games i play.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> i got a quick qestion
> i wanna put my video card in the very top and very bottom pcie slot, so i have a big gap between the cards for airflow
> but when i do i cant activate sli my 2nd card doesnt show up... do i need ivy bridge cpu to use all 3 pcie lanes..
> im using a 2500k


I just looked at my UD5H, there is a sticker on that 3rd slot that says it's only available with Ivy Bridge CPUs.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Never heard of that. The third/last slot is normally for: Tri-SLI (4x), or a dedicated PhysX card to support one or two GPU's


Here is the deal that last slot on the UD5H is PCI-E 3.0 but only 4x lanes, you cannot do SLI with only 4x lanes, when you fill that last lane the second to last lane goes to 4x as well, so it can support 3-way CF, but not 3-way SLI. You have to use the first and second 16x lanes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> I just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone here especially Sin for reviewing this board.
> I finally got a chance to play BF3 after building this week, and what an amazing difference from my last 4 year old machine, playing everything on ultra @ 1080p is just mind blowing and getting anywhere from 73 - 100 FPS, smooth as butter, rock solid stable.


You are welcome man, glad I can help.


----------



## Harry604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Here is the deal that last slot on the UD5H is PCI-E 3.0 but only 4x lanes, you cannot do SLI with only 4x lanes, when you fill that last lane the second to last lane goes to 4x as well, so it can support 3-way CF, but not 3-way SLI. You have to use the first and second 16x lanes.
> You are welcome man, glad I can help.


ok so i can only use the first 2 lanes for sli
not the 1st and 3rd and leave the 2nd empty

i just wanted to have a bigger gap between the cards for airflow


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> ok so i can only use the first 2 lanes for sli
> not the 1st and 3rd and leave the 2nd empty
> i just wanted to have a bigger gap between the cards for airflow


exactly. If heat becomes an issue you could try using msi afterburner and setting up a fan profile to make the fans spin faster.


----------



## Snakes

Well I'm gonna finally assemble my new system tomorrow and wondering if anyone has settled on a reliable temp monitoring utility for Ivy Bridge with these boards, I remember at first people weren't sure if they were being given accurate temps with Ivy Bridge.


----------



## Hokies83

Add me to the list XD


----------



## trendy

So I picked up my i5 3570k from Micro Center yesterday... still don't have a new motherboard or memory. What do you guys think about this deal with the UD5H?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.928887

I haven't owned a Gigabyte board since the days of the DS3 and my old E6600... great board. I'm thinking it's time I got one....


----------



## coolhandluke41

I want to confirmed restarted my system with F6d and now F8a multiple times and not a single boot-loop or whatever is't called ,so far pretty happy with the mobo








P.S. the only problem i have encounter is Easy Tune6 (installed and couldn't open up ) noticed longer win load with it installed







any pointers on how to get it to work ?


----------



## Dmac73

Sin, please add me.

http://imageshack.us/f/713/80459579.png

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3344989;jsessionid=1e06qxa19024k1bw7fhrahmjj8


----------



## samwiches

Why does my 3570K keep showing up in Windows with 100.9 BCLK?

It's set to 100MHz in UEFI but it keeps showing the actual as 100.9, same in Windows.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> So I picked up my i5 3570k from Micro Center yesterday... still don't have a new motherboard or memory. What do you guys think about this deal with the UD5H?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.928887
> 
> I haven't owned a Gigabyte board since the days of the DS3 and my old E6600... great board. I'm thinking it's time I got one....


Looks good to me. I have the UD5H and I love it. It's hands down the best board I've owned so far.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmac73*
> 
> Sin, please add me.
> http://imageshack.us/f/713/80459579.png
> http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3344989;jsessionid=1e06qxa19024k1bw7fhrahmjj8


I don't think there is actually a list of owner / members








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Why does my 3570K keep showing up in Windows with 100.9 BCLK?
> It's set to 100MHz in UEFI but it keeps showing the actual as 100.9, same in Windows.


That's just uncontrollable minor fluctuations in the reference clock. Nothing to worry about. completely normal.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Why does my 3570K keep showing up in Windows with 100.9 BCLK?
> It's set to 100MHz in UEFI but it keeps showing the actual as 100.9, same in Windows.
> 
> 
> 
> That's just uncontrollable minor fluctuations in the reference clock. Nothing to worry about. completely normal.
Click to expand...

Are you serious? That actually needs to be fixed...


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Are you serious? That actually needs to be fixed...


no it doesn't that's just the spread spectrum in effect http://www.anandtech.com/show/2500/20 and normal

you should be happy with it my old msi board use to set it at 99.7


----------



## samwiches

Why is this different than setting 100.9 myself?

What I mean is, if I want it to be 100 then it should be 100 right?


----------



## -Ste-

it should work

so as I said it my other post to i would set it to 100.3 in the bios to get it to show as 100 in windows

or you could just disable spread spectrum in the bios if its not hidden


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I want to confirmed restarted my system with F6d and now F8a multiple times and not a single boot-loop or whatever is't called ,so far pretty happy with the mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. the only problem i have encounter is Easy Tune6 (installed and couldn't open up ) noticed longer win load with it installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any pointers on how to get it to work ?


For ET6, do you have installed ?:

Intel® Management Engine Interface(MEI) Driver 8.x.x.xxxx
Intel® INF Driver 9.3.x.xxxx

Here is a latest Easy Tune6 B12.0425.1:
-Support Intel 6 and 7 series motherboards

http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Utility/motherboard_utility_et6_intel.exe


----------



## CaptainChaos

I just purchased a ud5h along with a 3570k like 3 days ago and everything in terms of the install has gone fine. However I can not enable SLI. Is there anything I need to do on the BIOS side of things to get SLI to work. I've already tried reinstalling windows, reinstalling chipset drivers, reainstalling nvidia drivers along with clean uninstalls, among other things. Is it possible that a faulty SLI bridge would keep me from even seeing the option of enabling sli in nvidia control panel?

any advice would be appreciated!


----------



## sh1v

Is anyone using the samsung ddr3 memory with ud5h board? For some reason, my system keeps crashing randomly even though everything is stock. I am thinking compatability issues. I am going run a memtest to see my ram isn't all ****ed up.

UD5h w/3770k / 4x4GB Samsung ddr3 1600

Also, i am trying to get the lucid MVP working however whenever i try to install to install the intel drivers, keeps saying min requirements not met. Is there something i am missing?


----------



## Rondik

I was curious this ud5h mobo supposedly has a very good sound chipset on it.

Right now I realized I have crappy speakers, just a left and right, that is probably 10 years old and gets crackling every once in a while, and a standard headset with mic, nothing special.

I really cannot setup any of these 5.1 speakers, I have no where to put the back ones where I sit, so I was thinking of getting a really good headset.

I was looking at this one:

Corsair Vengeance 1500

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...corsair%201500

It has a lot of great reviews, but I realized it uses its own audio sound chip built in, which would defeat the purpose of having great audio on the motherboard.

Should I go ahead and get this anyway? Or is there better headphones that will use the sound on my motherboard instead?


----------



## ChrisB17

How much memory does the iGPU use on Intel HD 2000 graphics? Thanks.


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sh1v*
> 
> Is anyone using the samsung ddr3 memory with ud5h board? For some reason, my system keeps crashing randomly even though everything is stock. I am thinking compatability issues. I am going run a memtest to see my ram isn't all ****ed up.
> UD5h w/3770k / 4x4GB Samsung ddr3 1600
> Also, i am trying to get the lucid MVP working however whenever i try to install to install the intel drivers, keeps saying min requirements not met. Is there something i am missing?


Needs to connect monitor to iGPU (mobo) and boot from iGFX (BIOS setting) before installing MVP. Pls report back Samsung green dram issue.


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Well I'm gonna finally assemble my new system tomorrow and wondering if anyone has settled on a reliable temp monitoring utility for Ivy Bridge with these boards, I remember at first people weren't sure if they were being given accurate temps with Ivy Bridge.


I use HW Monitor 3.95.


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Are you serious? That actually needs to be fixed...


Asus and GT all do this so benchamarks look better.


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> So I picked up my i5 3570k from Micro Center yesterday... still don't have a new motherboard or memory. What do you guys think about this deal with the UD5H?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.928887
> 
> I haven't owned a Gigabyte board since the days of the DS3 and my old E6600... great board. I'm thinking it's time I got one....


Did not pick up UD5H or UD3H and shave 50 off total purchase?! Come back!


----------



## Yor_

I'm interested in that Samsung 30nm ram issue with UD5H. Please post back any findings!.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> How much memory does the iGPU use on Intel HD 2000 graphics? Thanks.


I'm pretty sure that you can set it to however much you want it to use.



It gives a range from 32 to 1024 MB for my HD3000. I think 64 MB is the default. It's probably similar for the HD2000.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sh1v*
> 
> Is anyone using the samsung ddr3 memory with ud5h board? For some reason, my system keeps crashing randomly even though everything is stock. I am thinking compatability issues. I am going run a memtest to see my ram isn't all ****ed up.
> UD5h w/3770k / 4x4GB Samsung ddr3 1600
> Also, i am trying to get the lucid MVP working however whenever i try to install to install the intel drivers, keeps saying min requirements not met. Is there something i am missing?


I'm using 16gb of Samsung 30nm, but I have a SB 2600K and everything is stock and running fine. I noticed on default it's set to 1.5v vs 1.35v and I haven't touched it. Maybe it's a IB thing?


----------



## Snakes

Wouldn't you know it. I wait til today to download the latest BIOS before installing my board and now the tweaktown url isn't loading. Anyone got that latest beta bios for UD5H? The latest on the official website is F6.

Ah nevermind, was able to find the link to F8a via Google cache. Should I be using that bios?


----------



## eaglepowers

Just sent u a pm, email me and I'll send it.

Glad you got it sorted out. I haven't tried the F8a yet, I'm still on F7.


----------



## Snakes

There are so many drivers on the official site for this board, what should I be installing? Both of the Chipset ones? The audio one obviously. Rapid storage technology. Marvell SATA driver. USB 3.0 driver? Both of the LAN drivers...


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> There are so many drivers on the official site for this board, what should I be installing? Both of the Chipset ones? The audio one obviously. Rapid storage technology. Marvell SATA driver. USB 3.0 driver? Both of the LAN drivers...


I installed everything but ON/OFF since don't need that, and I plan to do the Lucid eventually just not now.

I actually used the CD that came with the mobo, and installed from there.


----------



## CaptainChaos

http://hwbot.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42040&page=8

another place to find the latest bios


----------



## DeXel

Thanks Sin0822, for letting us know about this great board







. No cold boot problems for me and in fact my system boots in 15 seconds with my SSD.

Now is the problem I was trying to get good OC result (4.6Ghz at 1.3v and etc.) that some people are getting), but my chip does not seems that good. Currently I have 4.4Ghz at 1.29volts in UEFI (1.26 according to CPU-Z) with LLC at Turbo and PLL at 1.5v. If I lower vcore or llc, my system either won't boot or windows will crash.

So the question is there anything else that can be changed to stabilize overclock at lower voltage besides setting LLC to Extreme?

P.S. Currently running Prime95, otherwise would have included BIOS screenshots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Wouldn't you know it. I wait til today to download the latest BIOS before installing my board and now the tweaktown url isn't loading. Anyone got that latest beta bios for UD5H? The latest on the official website is F6.
> Ah nevermind, was able to find the link to F8a via Google cache. Should I be using that bios?


 z77xud5h.zip 3656k .zip file

F8a. Hope it helps though I use f6.


----------



## Snakes

Thanks for the help, +Rep. I guess I'm gonna install every driver on their site except for those SATA pre-install drivers, and the Marvell storage utility cause I don't know what that is. I think I found a newer version of the Intel Rapid Storage driver on Intel's site but I'm just going to install the one from Gigabyte's site instead.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> For ET6, do you have installed ?:
> Intel® Management Engine Interface(MEI) Driver 8.x.x.xxxx
> Intel® INF Driver 9.3.x.xxxx
> Here is a latest Easy Tune6 B12.0425.1:
> -Support Intel 6 and 7 series motherboards
> http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Utility/motherboard_utility_et6_intel.exe


I uninstalled ET6 since it didn't do anything ,will try the one you posted ,thank you Stasio ,you are the best


----------



## Sin0822

try updating the ME and INF, like uninstall then re-install. Also try the version of ET6 off the driver CD, uninstall the program(ET6) and then re-install the newer or older version.

This ME firmware being updated is an important issue.

also yes HWBot is the other place to go that updates all the BIOSes stasio posts.


----------



## br030hk

Wahhh.. I cant wait, all the parts will arrive on Monday. I've already read through 70% of this thread and hopefully I don't run into most of the issues>"<


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> try updating the ME and INF, like uninstall then re-install. Also try the version of ET6 off the driver CD, uninstall the program(ET6) and then re-install the newer or older version.
> This ME firmware being updated is an important issue.
> also yes HWBot is the other place to go that updates all the BIOSes stasio posts.


EDIT; just reinstalled ME and INF ..still no dice


----------



## DBEAU

I installed the audio, both chipest drivers, the Intel lan driver (I don't intend on using the marvel LAN), the intel rapid storage technology, intel usb 3.0\\

I skipped all the marvel stuff because I'm not going to use those and I also skipped the intel VGA driver ( however you will need this for lucid mvp if you choose)


----------



## Rondik

Can anyone give me some tips or a link to basic guide on how to overclock with this mobo coming from someone who has never OC?

I guess my questions are:

1) What would be the first things to change just to get it to 4 ghz?

2) When I change that to say 4 ghz would that mean the turbo will be even higher? I know with Turbo right now I am getting 3.8 but not sure when Turbo kicks in.

3) Is there an option in BIOS (I looked could not find it) to do an auto OC without having to install that EZ Tune?

Thanks

EDIT:
I found SIN guide thanks for this !!!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## TJman

Hey everyone, I just got this board, and am having some trouble with some of the settings on my UD5H with 3570k. I have it stable at 4.6ghz at 1.305 volts, however, I do not want the processor to get that many volts when idle. However, the only way to change dynamic vcore (DVID) is by setting cpu vcore to "Normal" settings. Normally this would not be a problem, except at "normal" voltages (0.950-1.05volts is what gigabyte sets it at) my computer is unstable at idle and crashes, but it is stable when stressed with prime95. DVID can only be set if cpu vcore is normal on my board, and I was wondering if there was any way to manually set both the CPU Vcore and DVID, so I could have a higher idle voltage at normal than what the board would give it? Thanks!


----------



## jayhay

Why not leave the DVID in normal mode and let the energy savings features on the board do the rest? I'm at 4.5ghz @ 1.285v with all power savings features enabled on the UD5H. I'm rock solid and both my clock and volts drop on idle like they should.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> EDIT; just reinstalled ME and INF ..still no dice


NVM ..finally got it going ..you have to click "show"


----------



## Sin0822

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha nice.

btw if you use dvid and offset the whole idea is to leave EIST, C1E, & C3/C6 on.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TJman*
> 
> Hey everyone, I just got this board, and am having some trouble with some of the settings on my UD5H with 3570k. I have it stable at 4.6ghz at 1.305 volts, however, I do not want the processor to get that many volts when idle. However, the only way to change dynamic vcore (DVID) is by setting cpu vcore to "Normal" settings. Normally this would not be a problem, except at "normal" voltages (0.950-1.05volts is what gigabyte sets it at) my computer is unstable at idle and crashes, but it is stable when stressed with prime95. DVID can only be set if cpu vcore is normal on my board, and I was wondering if there was any way to manually set both the CPU Vcore and DVID, so I could have a higher idle voltage at normal than what the board would give it? Thanks!


Using DVID successfully is a bit tricky. To get the proper voltages at both load and idle, you have to set DVID and LLC settings appropriately.

When using DVID, it basically it comes down to this:

LLC will adjust the size of the range between idle and load Vcore.
DVID offset will shift that whole range up or down.
If you are having troubles with stability at idle, then try reducing LLC while increasing the DVID offset. This will make the idle voltage higher while the load voltage will be the same as before.

If on the other hand you are having trouble with stability at load, then try increasing LLC while leaving DVID the same. This will make the load voltage higher while the idle voltage will remain the same.

It takes patience and small adjustments to find a good combination, but it's worth it. I am using DVID and LLC on both of my 2600K rigs, and the combination works flawlessly.


----------



## Electroneng

I just installed my 3570k into my ud5 board that previously had a 2500k running at 4.70Ghz.. My problem is I cannot enter bios at all to change any setting! The delete function does not work! I have switched to every usb port with my keyboard and I still cannot enter bios. All ports work well once I am in Windows. This is the Z77A-UD5H


----------



## cowie

^Did you try f8 f9 or is it that your kb is not responsive during boot? you reset bios before your first boot with the new chip right?

Had the ud5 on dice with my 3570k only 5.5 1.65v but the board was easy to deal with.


----------



## coolhandluke41

I had similar problem last night when updating bios ..load windows /disconnect keyboard/plug in to the blue USB on the back and wait until windows will show " driver for your device successfully loaded"" or "device ready to use"/restar


----------



## s4e8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> I just installed my 3570k into my ud5 board that previously had a 2500k running at 4.70Ghz.. My problem is I cannot enter bios at all to change any setting! The delete function does not work! I have switched to every usb port with my keyboard and I still cannot enter bios. All ports work well once I am in Windows. This is the Z77A-UD5H


Trying BIOS F6L or F8A, it support my gaming keyboard, all other bios' is bork.


----------



## r0ach

QUESTION: Is this setting VTT 0.05v higher than IMC thing a Gigabyte only issue or Z77 chipset issue in general? Will a future BIOS change this, or will you always need to do this? (I'm on a 2500k if that makes a difference)

Also, can some other people run this DPC latency test program for about 10-15 minutes while browsing the web and tell me if you get any big DPC spikes? If you do, list your add-on boards you have installed.

http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml

If you want to minimize DPC latency, disable the following stuff: HPET, built in audio + GPU, 2nd ethernet NIC, 1394 port, marvell SATA controllers, all power saving modes like Cstates, EIST, possibly execute disable bit (only one I'm unsure of)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> I'm interested in that Samsung 30nm ram issue with UD5H. Please post back any findings!.


I'm using Samsung 30nm without problems. Has passed SuperPI 32m and IBT with the following settings so far:

1600 mhz 1.45v @ 7-8-7-24
2133 mhz 1.45v @ 11-11-11-28


----------



## Electroneng

The first time I have every dealt with this in probably 100 cpu installs on as many different boards! The motherboard should detect that a different CPU was installed! Now I cannot get into bios! Going to have to reset cmos to make it work hopefully! Gigabyte needs to get there act together before they become a non-player. Asrock, Asus, ECS, all have detected my chip at the same setting!

the keyboard and everything else is working fine!


----------



## TJman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Using DVID successfully is a bit tricky. To get the proper voltages at both load and idle, you have to set DVID and LLC settings appropriately.
> When using DVID, it basically it comes down to this:
> 
> LLC will adjust the size of the range between idle and load Vcore.
> DVID offset will shift that whole range up or down.
> If you are having troubles with stability at idle, then try reducing LLC while increasing the DVID offset. This will make the idle voltage higher while the load voltage will be the same as before.
> If on the other hand you are having trouble with stability at load, then try increasing LLC while leaving DVID the same. This will make the load voltage higher while the idle voltage will remain the same.
> It takes patience and small adjustments to find a good combination, but it's worth it. I am using DVID and LLC on both of my 2600K rigs, and the combination works flawlessly.


Thanks for your help! To everyone else, I did have all the power savings features on, I just couldn't get the voltage adjustments to work. Changing the LLC from Turbo to Medium gave me a idle voltage of 1.05 instead of 0.996, at normal, which solved my issues. Adding the correct offset afterwards was easy


----------



## grizindabox

I am having an issue with my UD5H. Whenever I put RAM into slots 2 and/or 4 the system will go into a boot loop showing code 15 on the LED. Any suggestions?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> The first time I have every dealt with this in probably 100 cpu installs on as many different boards! The motherboard should detect that a different CPU was installed! Now I cannot get into bios! Going to have to reset cmos to make it work hopefully! Gigabyte needs to get there act together before they become a non-player. Asrock, Asus, ECS, all have detected my chip at the same setting!
> the keyboard and everything else is working fine!


i change CPUs out all the time, i never have to reset the CMOS....... try put your 2500K back in see if it works, then try your 3570K, perhaps you killed the CPU?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> I am having an issue with my UD5H. Whenever I put RAM into slots 2 and/or 4 the system will go into a boot loop showing code 15 on the LED. Any suggestions?


are you using sandy bridge???


----------



## Snakes

Can someone help me out? I've gotten to the BIOS and flashed it to F8a or whatever the latest one is. But my problem is that I can't boot off my system SSD into Windows. I only have one drive hooked up to the motherboard and it's recognized in the bios. And I have that drive set as #1 in the boot priority. When I try to boot off it I get this message: "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key" SATA mode is AHCI. I can provide whatever other settings if they're relevant. The only thing I've changed in the BIOS is loading optimized defaults after I flashed the BIOS and then changing my RAM frequency via the XMP profile. So to be clear, I have never gotten past this error screen on this motherboard. I can get into Bios fine but I can't get beyond it.


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Can someone help me out? I've gotten to the BIOS and flashed it to F8a or whatever the latest one is. But my problem is that I can't boot off my system SSD into Windows. I only have one drive hooked up to the motherboard and it's recognized in the bios. And I have that drive set as #1 in the boot priority. When I try to boot off it I get this message: "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key" SATA mode is AHCI. I can provide whatever other settings if they're relevant. The only thing I've changed in the BIOS is loading optimized defaults after I flashed the BIOS and then changing my RAM frequency via the XMP profile. So to be clear, I have never gotten past this error screen on this motherboard. I can get into Bios fine but I can't get beyond it.


When you flashed, you probably left your usb stick in, and for some reason, it then defaults to usb stick as primary and trying to boot off that. I have had the same issue with each flash.

You need to load optimized defaults, save and reboot back into bios, make sure primary drive listed first (check both places hard drive list and boot priority), make sure it is first boot device remove USB that you flashed with, save and reboot back into bios and double check to make sure primary drive still listed as boot 1 device.

Bottom line it tends to place any USB stick in back of computer as primary boot drive. The "smart boot" options is terrible, rather it be all manual, but havent read how to turn off the "smart bios" feature, which is actually quite fing stupid. I spent quite a few times tinkering with same issue.


----------



## grizindabox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> are you using sandy bridge???


Yes, I5-2500K.


----------



## Sin0822

increase your QPI/VTT or just VTT to 1.15v and your IMC voltage to 1.145v then try it again.

yea for some reason when you flash from a USB stick is default to boot on that. I will ask them if they can change this.


----------



## grizindabox

increase your QPI/VTT or just VTT to 1.15v and your IMC voltage to 1.145v then try it again.

was this intended for me?


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea for some reason when you flash from a USB stick is default to boot on that. I will ask them if they can change this.


Thanks


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> When you flashed, you probably left your usb stick in, and for some reason, it then defaults to usb stick as primary and trying to boot off that. I have had the same issue with each flash.
> You need to load optimized defaults, save and reboot back into bios, make sure primary drive listed first (check both places hard drive list and boot priority), make sure it is first boot device remove USB that you flashed with, save and reboot back into bios and double check to make sure primary drive still listed as boot 1 device.
> Bottom line it tends to place any USB stick in back of computer as primary boot drive. The "smart boot" options is terrible, rather it be all manual, but havent read how to turn off the "smart bios" feature, which is actually quite fing stupid. I spent quite a few times tinkering with same issue.


I'm not sure what's going on... my USB stick was removed but I'm not sure when exactly I removed it. So just now, with it still out, I loaded optimized defaults, save/exit, back into BIOS and the SSD is still shown as Boot Option #1 under Boot Option Priorities in the Bios Features tab. I'm not sure where to find the hard drive list to check if it's listed there.

I just looked under Hard Drive BBS Priorities, the SSD is shown there.

Tried rebooting and getting the same error message. Did I miss a step?

The SSD is plugged into SATA port 3 if that matters. One of the black SATA2 ports.

I think I found that hard drive list, in the System tab under ATA Port Information. It shows my SSD under Serial ATA Port 3, Port 3 is enabled and Hot Plug is disabled.

On the Save & Exit tab my SSD is listed under Boot Override as well. Not sure what that means.


----------



## opt33

I meant make sure under Hard Drive BBS Priorities that primary drive is listed in first slot, and I would disable others. And also on boot priorities, it is listed first, and i would just disable all rest, so cant boot from anything else. Then save and reboot.

If that fails, turn computer off, unplug computer, press clear cmos button on mobo, then reboot, load optimized then reboot again, and make sure primary/etc is correct. I had to do that once after reflashing to get out of that cycle.


----------



## grizindabox

Anyone with an idea, I am having an issue with my UD5H. Whenever I put RAM into slots 2 and/or 4 the system will go into a boot loop showing code 15 on the LED. I5 2500K processor.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> I meant make sure under Hard Drive BBS Priorities that primary drive is listed in first slot, and I would disable others. And also on boot priorities, it is listed first, and i would just disable all rest, so cant boot from anything else. Then save and reboot.
> If that fails, turn computer off, unplug computer, press clear cmos button on mobo, then reboot, load optimized then reboot again, and make sure primary/etc is correct. I had to do that once after reflashing to get out of that cycle.


Didn't help, I searched my error message and another user in this thread was receiving the same thing. He used the Windows Sysprep utility to avoid reinstalling Windows and so did I. He did a fresh install and got past the error, I think I'll have to do the same. Dammit, I thought that Sysprep sounded too good to be true and I guess it _was_.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Didn't help, I searched my error message and another user in this thread was receiving the same thing. He used the Windows Sysprep utility to avoid reinstalling Windows and so did I. He did a fresh install and got past the error, I think I'll have to do the same. Dammit, I thought that Sysprep sounded too good to be true and I guess it _was_.


Sysprep didn't work for me well. Windows would freeze on every occasion, so full reinstall FTW.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Sysprep didn't work for me well. Windows would freeze on every occasion, so full reinstall FTW.


I think it was your post that I had found, where you had the same error I did. I'm in the process of a fresh install right now.

Hey guys, I'm getting a weird message from Windows installer where it says "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. The selected disk has an MBR partition table. On EFI systems, Windows can only be installed to GPT disks."

Does that make any sense? I think what I have to do is delete my existing partition and let Windows create a new one to install to. I've never seen this before, does EFI have to do with this motherboard since it has a UEFI BIOS? I don't know what this stuff means, I've installed and reinstalled Windows many times but never seen this message.

Yep, deleted the existing partition and it started installing Windows no problem. Sorry if I'm asking off-topic questions, just trying to figure this out and I keep running into hurdles.

Can someone tell me which port on the back of the board is controlled by Intel? I can't figure that out, it's not specified in the manual that I could tell.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Can someone tell me which port on the back of the board is controlled by Intel? I can't figure that out, it's not specified in the manual that I could tell.


If you're talking about the Intel LAN it's the one on top.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> If you're talking about the Intel LAN it's the one on top.


Thanks, that's what I needed to know.


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Anyone with an idea, I am having an issue with my UD5H. Whenever I put RAM into slots 2 and/or 4 the system will go into a boot loop showing code 15 on the LED. I5 2500K processor.


Perhaps you should let it run its cycle?

"Pre-memory North-Bridge initialization is started"

You should really have your manual out so you can reference the error codes if you are having problems.


----------



## grizindabox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> Perhaps you should let it run its cycle?
> "Pre-memory North-Bridge initialization is started"
> You should really have your manual out so you can reference the error codes if you are having problems.


It will not run its cycle. It will just start to boot and shut down over and over and over. I do realize what code 15 is, but mentioned it hoping someone else may have had the same thing happen.


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> It will not run its cycle. It will just start to boot and shut down over and over and over. I do realize what code 15 is, but mentioned it hoping someone else may have had the same thing happen.


I may have had a similar issue. Try plugging your mouse and keyboard in the red usb ports. My system would freeze at the Windows GUI boot screen.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> I'm using 16gb of Samsung 30nm, but I have a SB 2600K and everything is stock and running fine. I noticed on default it's set to 1.5v vs 1.35v and I haven't touched it. Maybe it's a IB thing?


Mine is set to 1.35v but it will always boot at 1.50. It's stuck there, or at least won't go down.

These Samsungs can do 1.25v at stock speed, easily.. I want to do that.


----------



## Snakes

Is there somewhere I can get more of these blue SATA cables? I could use one or two of them with the right angle connector.

Found one on ebay for $10, from Hong Kong. Says it's Gigabyte brand. I wonder if it's legit.

Well the installation seems to have gone well, played some games and got good performance and good temps. Time to call it a day!


----------



## Incatius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> increase your QPI/VTT or just VTT to 1.15v and your IMC voltage to 1.145v then try it again.
> was this intended for me?


Yes, grizindabox, that reply was for you since you are having issue with memory.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Is there somewhere I can get more of these blue SATA cables? I could use one or two of them with the right angle connector.
> Found one on ebay for $10, from Hong Kong. Says it's Gigabyte brand. I wonder if it's legit.
> Well the installation seems to have gone well, played some games and got good performance and good temps. Time to call it a day!


You don't need blue sata cables from Gigabyte. Use any sata cable you have. If you have to have blue, go online (Newegg, ebay, wherever) and order one.


----------



## mandrix

So I'm still not getting the front USB 3.0 ports included with the UD5H to recognize USB 2.0 devices. At one point it was, as I had to use it for Qflash, don't remember how many BIOS versions back that was or if I was using the 2600K and not the 3770K cpu.
These are supposed to be backwards compatible, but so far they are unusable. (I don't have any USB 3.0 devices to test). I am using USB 2.0 devices in the back panel 3.0 ports with no problems I'm aware of.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I think it was your post that I had found, where you had the same error I did. I'm in the process of a fresh install right now.
> Hey guys, I'm getting a weird message from Windows installer where it says "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. The selected disk has an MBR partition table. On EFI systems, Windows can only be installed to GPT disks."
> Does that make any sense? I think what I have to do is delete my existing partition and let Windows create a new one to install to. I've never seen this before, does EFI have to do with this motherboard since it has a UEFI BIOS? I don't know what this stuff means, I've installed and reinstalled Windows many times but never seen this message.
> Yep, deleted the existing partition and it started installing Windows no problem. Sorry if I'm asking off-topic questions, just trying to figure this out and I keep running into hurdles.
> Can someone tell me which port on the back of the board is controlled by Intel? I can't figure that out, it's not specified in the manual that I could tell.


You have to delete the partition and just hit next, don't even need to hit new, Windows will create it automatically for you. It should say unallocated space on the drive then hit next.

You want to plug it into the White Sata Ports, it is the second set down from the top


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i change CPUs out all the time, i never have to reset the CMOS....... try put your 2500K back in see if it works, then try your 3570K, perhaps you killed the CPU?


OK, I was finally able to get everything working correctly!

Originally, when I replaced the 2500K with the 3570K, the system just started up with no new CPU detected message which is a first for me! I could never get into bios to check or change anything! Tried 3 different Keyboards on every port and still no getting into bios.

I reset CMOS and when I rebooted, I could see the full screen logo now (which I usually have off) so this was an indication that the reset went OK. I still could not get into bios using any keyboard on any port. Keep in mind that each time, the computer would boot into windows just fine!

I then decided to remove any other devices that were hooked to the PC. I first removed my sound system connect with no help. I then removed my Lan cable and rebooted and was able to get into bios with no problems.
I was plugged into the Atheros Lan connection.

I reconnected everything, now I am on the Intel Lan controller and all works fine.

Being curious, I then tried to recreate the problem by hooking the Lan cable back to The Atheros slot and I could never get this to repeat!

I take back what I stated about Gigabyte needs to get there act together. This is just strange crap that occurs to mess with one's mind!


----------



## deyura

Hello

Have configuration:
GA-Z77-D3H (bios F12, 26 april)
G.Skill F3-1600C9D-8GAB
i7-3770K
Radeon GV-R777D5-1GD (driver 12.4, bios F3)
Seasonic 500w
Windows 7 x64, all latest drivers from gigabyte site
Тemperature: CPU < 55C, VideoCard < 60C, Z77 = 25C

Once a day, maybe a bowl PC freezes and then itself power off.
No blue screen, in windows jornal no problem.

Try to do:
1. Memtest 3 hours - OK
2. in windows Hibernate, Screen Off, USB off, HDD off - disabled
3. Turbo Boost - disabled in bios
4. PCI-E set to 2.0
5. Set memory to lower timing & normal operation mode

Nothing helps,
Please help


----------



## grizindabox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Incatius*
> 
> Yes, grizindabox, that reply was for you since you are having issue with memory.


I assumed so and did this, no dice


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You don't need blue sata cables from Gigabyte. Use any sata cable you have. If you have to have blue, go online (Newegg, ebay, wherever) and order one.


I just wanted a blue one to match what I have, just for looks. I need 3 right angle cables and the motherboard only came with two. One black and one blue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> You have to delete the partition and just hit next, don't even need to hit new, Windows will create it automatically for you. It should say unallocated space on the drive then hit next.
> You want to plug it into the White Sata Ports, it is the second set down from the top


Thanks, that's what I ended up doing. I was hoping to avoid deleting the partition but that was just wishful thinking, had some data on there. I meant the network LAN port, I only just realized I hadn't specified that in my question, oops.


----------



## coolhandluke41

@Sin got my cheap 2133 kit running @2400 CL11
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468
but my DDR3-2200 Cl7 can't even boot under (22.00 or 21.33) XMP profile LooL







,what's up with that ?
http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=251


----------



## Snakes

Hey wait a minute, I just realized that my CPU is being overclocked to 3.8GHz from the stock 3.4. I never told it to do that, but it's been running at that speed since I installed it. Bios auto-overclocked it?

This is a photo of my UD5H installed. I really like the look of it, the blue/black combo is great. It's not a good pic but I don't have the right software installed to tweak it. Will take a better one later. I'll take off those two red stickers soon, that's temporary.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Hey wait a minute, I just realized that my CPU is being overclocked to 3.8GHz from the stock 3.4. I never told it to do that, but it's been running at that speed since I installed it. Bios auto-overclocked it?
> This is a photo of my UD5H installed. I really like the look of it, the blue/black combo is great. It's not a good pic but I don't have the right software installed to tweak it. Will take a better one later. I'll take off those two red stickers soon, that's temporary.


Nice pic, I won't show a pic of my case it looks horrible LOL

That is the Turbo Boost it is on by default and goes to 3.8


----------



## Snakes

Thanks. I haven't bothered to clean up the back yet, there are cables everywhere. Looks like a real disaster. I wanted to make sure everything works before I put in the effort to clean that up. I'll have to look into that turbo thing, it seems to be doing fine as-is though. I noticed that the multiplier is going all over the place, guess that's ok. Saves power. As long as it goes full speed when I need it to.


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Hey wait a minute, I just realized that my CPU is being overclocked to 3.8GHz from the stock 3.4. I never told it to do that, but it's been running at that speed since I installed it. Bios auto-overclocked it?
> This is a photo of my UD5H installed. I really like the look of it, the blue/black combo is great. It's not a good pic but I don't have the right software installed to tweak it. Will take a better one later. I'll take off those two red stickers soon, that's temporary.


i have seriously got to get a new case

very nice


----------



## Mandroid

I just got my Z77X-UD5H up and running with an i7-3770k. Everything is up and running except for the onboard sound. The Gigabyte website has a 104MB driver for Realtek, but the disk that came with the motherboard has both a 418MB driver for Realtek and another 110MB driver for Creative SB X-Fi MB2. Thoughts?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deyura*
> 
> Hello
> Have configuration:
> GA-Z77-D3H (bios F12, 26 april)
> G.Skill F3-1600C9D-8GAB
> i7-3770K
> Radeon GV-R777D5-1GD (driver 12.4, bios F3)
> Seasonic 500w
> Windows 7 x64, all latest drivers from gigabyte site
> Тemperature: CPU < 55C, VideoCard < 60C, Z77 = 25C
> Once a day, maybe a bowl PC freezes and then itself power off.
> No blue screen, in windows jornal no problem.
> Try to do:
> 1. Memtest 3 hours - OK
> 2. in windows Hibernate, Screen Off, USB off, HDD off - disabled
> 3. Turbo Boost - disabled in bios
> 4. PCI-E set to 2.0
> 5. Set memory to lower timing & normal operation mode
> Nothing helps,
> Please help


remount your CPU.

BTW windows installation really shouldn't be hard, you shouldn't have to change any of those HHD/SSD settings, only issue that would come up is if you try to install windows from a USB stick.

If you are using windows XP or Vista, the stock Intel USB 3.0 ports will not operate at all unless you set from smart auto to just auto under xhci, that is Intel's suggestion.

Intel is so stupid: http://www.intel.com/support/chipsets/usb3/sb/CS-033072.htm


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> @Sin got my cheap 2133 kit running @2400 CL11
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468
> but my DDR3-2200 Cl7 can't even boot under (22.00 or 21.33) XMP profile LooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,what's up with that ?
> http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=251


yea I will ask how to fix that, but the XMP should work.

can you give me the specification number on the sticker for the g.skills? The C7

IMO the hynix is the best memory for this platform, it is what all of those new g.skill kits use, and it is what this uses:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145334 which can do cas 11 @2700mhz which is pretty cool.


----------



## mandrix

OK, found out one of the ports doesn't work on the supplied USB 3.0 front panel. Sheesh. Other one works just fine. Must have a bad connections somewhere or a bent pin.


----------



## br030hk

Hello, I have a quick question.

I originally had a Asrock Z77 Extreme 4, but I RMA the board due to random freezes, reboots..

My question is should I do a clean window install once the ud5h board arrives? or can I just use the operating system that's already in the hard drive.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Hello, I have a quick question.
> I originally had a Asrock Z77 Extreme 4, but I RMA the board due to random freezes, reboots..
> My question is should I do a clean window install once the ud5h board arrives? or can I just use the operating system that's already in the hard drive.


Yes, PLEASE RE-INSTALL WINDOWS EVERY-TIME YOU CHANGE YOUR MOTHERBOARD(cross chipset or cross brands). It takes like 30 minutes and will save you a lot of hassle. That is meant for most of the first time posters with odd-issues in windows, please re-install windows.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> OK, found out one of the ports doesn't work on the supplied USB 3.0 front panel. Sheesh. Other one works just fine. Must have a bad connections somewhere or a bent pin.


can you show me which one?


----------



## Sin0822

Boys and Girls, men and women today I post some OC profiles, the first post of its kind. Here I post OC profiles for the UD5H and the UD3H and I want you guys to try them out and let me know what I should change on them. Also if you could try them and let me know if they work, I need to see whether it matters if I used a 3570K or 3770K to make the profiles. I have both CPUs so I can always make more profiles just with certain CPUs. I also have SB, so if SB owners could also try these profiles and see if they work.

This profile sharing will totally change teh face of overclocking as we can now provide new users with profiles they can tweak, and everyone is open to provide their own.

To use a profile you will need to open it take the file without extension inside the .RAR and place it on a thumb-drive formatted in FAT32 and then go into your BIOS and load profile from the USB drive.
THis is a .RAR with all the UD3H profiles, it contains a bunch of profiles each in their own .RAR

UD3H: http://www.mediafire.com/?mm21ct5dn650b6h
The vcore is set a bit higher just to make sure the system boots, users can always go decrease the vcore.
First you have the *45G&1600mhz* this is a 4.5ghz OC with 1600mhz XMP profile loaded. I think the Vcore is around 1.3v and you can always lower it.
Next there is the *45GwithDVID* which is a 4.5ghz OC with DVID and power savings enabled, i think vcore is together at max 1.3v, you can always lower the vcore
Next there is the *CPUOC* and thus is just made for high CPU oc without memory OC done to it.
Next you have *CPUOCwinXP* which is same as the one above, but designed for the system to deal with Windows XP, so HDD/SSD is in IDE mode and the xHCI is set to auto instead of smart auto.
Next you have *LN2 profile,* which is designed for LN2 cooling, it doesn't' have a high OC, but it does have stock BCLK higher than 100 and all power savings maxed out.
Next you have *memoryfreq* which is the timings loosened for high memory frequency, it is set for cas11, if you want cas12 you will need to change tWL to 9 or 10, i forget. I used this memory profile to take my DDR3 2000mhz cas 9 to 2700 and then i tighten the 3rd timings first and then move onto the other timings.

UD5H:
This is for 4.5ghz and 1600mhz XMP memory: http://www.mediafire.com/?u15dl7pprsjjsir
THis is for 4.5ghz and DVID offset: http://www.mediafire.com/?dk1k7vqywz1oe4d

You will need to use the latest BIOS versions or else you might not have the option to load a BIOS.


----------



## CaptainChaos

I'll try the 4.5ghz and 1600mhz XMP ud5 profile when I get the chance


----------



## Sin0822

Thank you. i want people to know these profiles are a starting point and thus won't fit every system but i made them so that they should work for every cpu


----------



## samwiches

Sin, do you know this UD3H can't run Samsung memory at less than 1.50v? They are rated for 1.35 and can also do 1.25v.


----------



## Incatius

I have the samsung 30nm running fine at 1.35v at stock settings on my UD5H which is almost same as the UD3H. You tried entering 1.35v for the DRAM voltage since it defaults to 1.5v. I even have 4x4GB in there currently. I will start OC in a week once I get my PSU back.


----------



## SuperKW

Hi guys,1 fast question









on gigabyte website for UD5H cpu support list says ivy bridge supported with F6 bios only, but the board is shipped with F5! now if some bought the board+ivybridge how can he flash it to F6 if the cpu not supported yet ?


----------



## Incatius

All bios version support ivy bridge, Sin confirmed it bunch a posts back. Also my MB came with F4 and worked fine with 3770k.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea I will ask how to fix that, but the XMP should work.
> can you give me the specification number on the sticker for the g.skills? The C7
> IMO the hynix is the best memory for this platform, it is what all of those new g.skill kits use, and it is what this uses:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145334 which can do cas 11 @2700mhz which is pretty cool.


I'm not sure what's holding them back ,won't do 2600,here is the sticker/s for both RAM just in case


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Incatius*
> 
> my MB came with F4 and worked fine with 3770k.


Same here, but with 3570K CPU.


----------



## SuperKW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Incatius*
> 
> All bios version support ivy bridge, Sin confirmed it bunch a posts back. Also my MB came with F4 and worked fine with 3770k.


oh ok







didt saw sin post,82 page on this thread .

Thanks


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Anyone got 3570K @ 4.8Ghz 24/7 OC? I want to try to OC it but going for 4.8Ghz right away.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Incatius*
> 
> I have the samsung 30nm running fine at 1.35v at stock settings on my UD5H which is almost same as the UD3H. You tried entering 1.35v for the DRAM voltage since it defaults to 1.5v. I even have 4x4GB in there currently. I will start OC in a week once I get my PSU back.


Of course I set 1.35v. the DRR LLC options are confusing.. Standard, Normal, Low.. what is the difference?? None seem to change anything.

EDIT:
It looks like you have to set DDR LLC to Auto if you want it off.

And where are these settings?

*Internal PLL Overvoltage
CPU Spread Spectrum*

There are reviews on the web that mention these but I can't find them in UEFI.

EDIT:
OMG! PLL overvoltage is currently unavailable while they fix S3 issues.

Sin, I don't understand that post---is it disabled, or is the _disable_ option disabled? I just can't find it in UEFI anywhere.


----------



## CaptainChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Thank you. i want people to know these profiles are a starting point and thus won't fit every system but i made them so that they should work for every cpu


So I've had prime running for about an hour now with no issues. The profile seems like a really good starting point.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> can you show me which one?


(USB 3.0 front panel ports UD5H that came with mobo) Facing the front of the pc, the one on the right side is not working. But I haven't had a chance to check the header it's plugged into yet, will do that tomorrow. I'll let you know what I find.


----------



## Cheatdeath

Ok so I am working on a 24/7 stable everyday use and gaming OC. Currently I am at 4.7ghz. I am fairly new to overclocking so please let me know if im doing something wrong or if something could be better for stability and making my system last without degradation. I am trying to overclock using offset voltage on the UD5Hboard. My settings are in the picture below. I am curious if setting the voltage to "normal" to allow Offset settings to 1.105 + the offset of +0.075 = 1.18 should be showing up as 1.212-1.224vcore in CPU-Z. LLC set to HIGH. I want to have the vcore throttle down under load and it is doing so perfectly down to about 1.010 or something I forget exactly prime is still running atm. With the vcore I am getting under load with these settings 4.7ghz is stable for 2 hours in prime testing so far. I just want to know I am doing things right as I said I am new to overclocking and everything I have learned literally came from reading this site. I really don't fully grasp what LLC setting is the best to use or safest ect. Along with maybe some more information about Offset voltage overclocking. From what I can tell unless having the vcore that much above what I set in bios showing up under load I have a pretty solid OC going but hell if I know lol.

Thank you


----------



## mandrix

Also today I tried getting my Trident 2400 ram up to 2600 but I couldn't boot, the machine seemed to lock up until I reset. I loosened the timings per TT article and tried command rate 2 but no go.
G Skill F3-2400C10D-8GTX

@Sin: Per your OC settings, will try when time permits. I'm currently running small DVID offset @ 4.5GHz , vcore about 1.212 before droop, all other voltages, power savings auto. Vcore line level below Turbo, High I think. Upped power and current limits. Was running 4.6 but backed up to see how low I could go on voltage. Not tested for long term stability yet. Taking my time.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheatdeath*
> 
> Ok so I am working on a 24/7 stable everyday use and gaming OC. Currently I am at 4.7ghz. I am fairly new to overclocking so please let me know if im doing something wrong or if something could be better for stability and making my system last without degradation. I am trying to overclock using offset voltage on the UD5Hboard. My settings are in the picture below. I am curious if setting the voltage to "normal" to allow Offset settings to 1.105 + the offset of +0.075 = 1.18 should be showing up as 1.212-1.224vcore in CPU-Z. LLC set to HIGH. I want to have the vcore throttle down under load and it is doing so perfectly down to about 1.010 or something I forget exactly prime is still running atm. With the vcore I am getting under load with these settings 4.7ghz is stable for 2 hours in prime testing so far. I just want to know I am doing things right as I said I am new to overclocking and everything I have learned literally came from reading this site. I really don't fully grasp what LLC setting is the best to use or safest ect. Along with maybe some more information about Offset voltage overclocking. From what I can tell unless having the vcore that much above what I set in bios showing up under load I have a pretty solid OC going but hell if I know lol.
> Thank you


Looks like you're doing pretty good. Is that your max temps, 60's? If so you are doing really good. I'm in low 70's @ x45 with currently using NH-D14.


----------



## Cheatdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Looks like you're doing pretty good. Is that your max temps, 60's? If so you are doing really good. I'm in low 70's @ x45 with currently using NH-D14.


Yes those are the highest temps I have seen on my i5 3570k to date. I was below 60c at 4.5 and 1.164vcore.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheatdeath*
> 
> Ok so I am working on a 24/7 stable everyday use and gaming OC. Currently I am at 4.7ghz. I am fairly new to overclocking so please let me know if im doing something wrong or if something could be better for stability and making my system last without degradation. I am trying to overclock using offset voltage on the UD5Hboard. My settings are in the picture below. I am curious if setting the voltage to "normal" to allow Offset settings to 1.105 + the offset of +0.075 = 1.18 should be showing up as 1.212-1.224vcore in CPU-Z. LLC set to HIGH. I want to have the vcore throttle down under load and it is doing so perfectly down to about 1.010 or something I forget exactly prime is still running atm. With the vcore I am getting under load with these settings 4.7ghz is stable for 2 hours in prime testing so far. I just want to know I am doing things right as I said I am new to overclocking and everything I have learned literally came from reading this site. I really don't fully grasp what LLC setting is the best to use or safest ect. Along with maybe some more information about Offset voltage overclocking. From what I can tell unless having the vcore that much above what I set in bios showing up under load I have a pretty solid OC going but hell if I know lol.
> 
> Thank you


First of all, that is a great chip. Maybe the best Ivy Bridge that I've seen here.

Second, with your voltage and temps so low you have nothing to worry about. You can easily run that setup 24/7 for a few years (unless these new chips turn out to be a lot more sensitive than anyone thought, but I think they'll be fine). I think the rule of thumb is based on Intel's maximum allowable everyday voltage and temps *at stock*: 1.52v and 105C. When you raise your voltage the temps become more dangerous (increased degradation) so you need to lower you maximum temps a bit while stress testing, but no one is really sure by how much. Mid to high 80's is what I'll aim for.

Lastly, whatever you're asking about LLC and offset I can't understand at all, but what LLC does is reduce vdroop. Vdroop occurs when your processor goes under load and your vcore drops (you can only see that when using a fixed voltage).

If you have C-states and EIST enabled then your idle voltage will be something like 0.60-1.10v. Raising the LLC in this case will increase your load vcore only, while raising your offset under this setup will increase your idle and vcore (LLC is the range of vcore between idle and load, and offset is the shifting of that range).


----------



## Cheatdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> First of all, that is a great chip. Maybe the best Ivy Bridge that I've seen here.
> Second, with your voltage and temps so low you have nothing to worry about. You can easily run that setup 24/7 for a few years (unless these new chips turn out to be a lot more sensitive than anyone thought, but I think they'll be fine). I think the rule of thumb is based on Intel's maximum allowable everyday voltage and temps *at stock*: 1.52v and 105C. When you raise your voltage the temps become more dangerous (increased degradation) so you need to lower you maximum temps a bit while stress testing, but no one is really sure by how much. Mid to high 80's is what I'll aim for.
> Lastly, whatever you're asking about LLC and offset I can't understand at all, but what LLC does is reduce vdroop. Vdroop occurs when your processor goes under load and your vcore drops (you can only see that when using a fixed voltage).
> If you have C-states and EIST enabled then your idle voltage will be something like 0.60-1.10v. Raising the LLC in this case will increase your load vcore only, while raising your offset under this setup will increase your idle and vcore (LLC is the range of vcore between idle and load, and offset is the shifting of that range).


Basically what I am trying to figure out is the way I obtained 1.212-1.224 ( the voltage I get under load in cpu-z) make sense or the right way to do so. I get these voltages with the vcore set to "normal" and 1.105vcore with a +0.075DVID setting to me means 1.18vcore under load? LLC set to High. I am attempting to overclock this way to utilize the C-states and EIST enabled and its working flawlessly as I type this going on almost 2.5 hours of prime blend with temps max 66c and average around 61c. Another thing I do not understand is the VID number in Core temp.


----------



## samwiches

Were you saying that your VID is 1.105v and you wanted the load vcore to be 1.18v but you ended up with 1.224v after using +0.075v offset?

That's just from a bit too much LLC.. but it's not bad. Just set whatever gets you the voltage you want.

I tried to explain how the controls work:

If you want the downclocking and undervolting (1600MHz w/ ~1.00v) then turn on Speedstep (EIST), C1E and C1/C3 (C-states). Start with stock multiplier and no LLC, then increase the multiplier x1 at a time. Increase LLC until you have close to the load voltage you want.. if you get close but vcore is a bit high or low, then you use a + or - offset to fine tune.

edit:
I don't know how you could have a VID of 1.105v so maybe I'm misunderstanding. If your IDLE VCORE was 1.105v and you want a load vcore of 1.18v, then forget it. That makes no sense. Your LLC may be low or off. Turn it up one or two notches. Or if it's on High then you have to just post your BIOS screens cause your typing is too hard to understand.


----------



## Cheatdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Were you saying that your VID is 1.105v and you wanted the load vcore to be 1.18v but you ended up with 1.224v after using +0.075v offset?
> That's just from a bit too much LLC.. but it's not bad. Just set whatever gets you the voltage you want.
> I tried to explain how the controls work:
> If you want the downclocking and undervolting (1600MHz w/ ~1.00v) then turn on Speedstep (EIST), C1E and C1/C3 (C-states). Start with stock multiplier and no LLC, then increase the multiplier x1 at a time. Increase LLC until you have close to the load voltage you want.. if you get close but vcore is a bit high or low, then you use a + or - offset to fine tune.
> edit:
> I don't know how you could have a VID of 1.105v so maybe I'm misunderstanding. If your IDLE VCORE was 1.105v and you want a load vcore of 1.18v, then forget it. That makes no sense. Your LLC may be low or off. Turn it up one or two notches. Or if it's on High then you have to just post your BIOS screens cause your typing is too hard to understand.


Im starting to think you have no experience using a gigabyte UD5H and the bios. Or this would make more sense to you.

For me to run 4.7 I need about 1.212 but to get to that voltage and utilize the downclocking and undervolting power saving features I have to set the VCORE to NORMAL Stock voltage of 1.105 and adjust the DYNAMIC VID to the voltage I want underload. I listed all my settings I hope somebody who has used a overclock like this on a UD5H could chime in.

I actually figured out I could do 4.7 at this voltage because I was trying to setup a 4.5 at 1.18 and when I loaded that the voltage was 1.212-1.224 I assume its higher than what I set because of the LLC setting of High. And again what I am trying to figure out is if this is a legit way to get my voltage settings. Thanks.


----------



## samwiches

I have the UD3H and you need to stay in school.









Anyway, "Normal" vcore + DVID means that you are going to have a vcore based on your chips VID, which is an automatic vcore (unique to each chip) that will change with the multiplier (rises with higher clocks).

Look at your chip's VID using Core Temp or another monitoring program. Your offset (DVID) will be added to or subtracted from your VID, giving you a vcore (under load).

LLC "adds" voltage to your load vcore.

If you're using DVID (offset) then you can ignore whatever your vcore says in BIOS. That is the idle voltage, not a VID or anything that will help you figure out what your vcore will be under load.

You're welcome.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Of course I set 1.35v. the DRR LLC options are confusing.. Standard, Normal, Low.. what is the difference?? None seem to change anything.
> EDIT:
> It looks like you have to set DDR LLC to Auto if you want it off.
> And where are these settings?
> *Internal PLL Overvoltage
> CPU Spread Spectrum*
> There are reviews on the web that mention these but I can't find them in UEFI.
> EDIT:
> OMG! PLL overvoltage is currently unavailable while they fix S3 issues.
> Sin, I don't understand that post---is it disabled, or is the _disable_ option disabled? I just can't find it in UEFI anywhere.


PLL Overvoltage is by default enabled FULL Time when your multiplier is increased over 40X. For Ivy bridge this is great because CPU PLL overovltage and S3 sleep work just fine with Ivy Bridge, however with sandy bridge this might cause and issue. So i requested that it be put int.

Spread spectrum is enabled by default and makes no difference, back with X58 it also made no difference and back then you could unhide it. So they just put it in the back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Anyone got 3570K @ 4.8Ghz 24/7 OC? I want to try to OC it but going for 4.8Ghz right away.


Try out one of my profiles, and then increase the multiplier. I think i posted the profiles a page or two back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainChaos*
> 
> So I've had prime running for about an hour now with no issues. The profile seems like a really good starting point.


Great glad to hear my profile is working good!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> (USB 3.0 front panel ports UD5H that came with mobo) Facing the front of the pc, the one on the right side is not working. But I haven't had a chance to check the header it's plugged into yet, will do that tomorrow. I'll let you know what I find.


Yea try it again, i bought a USB 3.0 SSD enclosure so I can test USB 3.0 speeds, so I would like to know what you find.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Also today I tried getting my Trident 2400 ram up to 2600 but I couldn't boot, the machine seemed to lock up until I reset. I loosened the timings per TT article and tried command rate 2 but no go.
> G Skill F3-2400C10D-8GTX
> @Sin: Per your OC settings, will try when time permits. I'm currently running small DVID offset @ 4.5GHz , vcore about 1.212 before droop, all other voltages, power savings auto. Vcore line level below Turbo, High I think. Upped power and current limits. Was running 4.6 but backed up to see how low I could go on voltage. Not tested for long term stability yet. Taking my time.


Try to loosen the 3rd timings, goto the memory page under quick, and goto the last set of things, set the first to 10500, second one to 93, and the others to 8 (they are all 3 at stock, some might be 1 or 4 depending on XMP), the last two have to be 7 as they can't goto 8. That should give you an extra 50-200mhz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I'm not sure what's holding them back ,won't do 2600,here is the sticker/s for both RAM just in case


yea I will ask them, the issue is, and I hope this isn't' an issue, is that kit is from P55, I hope they still have some so they can add int he proper XMP and the proper timings behind the scenes to make it more compatible.

Also a note about the samsung memory, by default, since this platform is default at 1.5v, it will set 1.5v. You can always go in there and change it to 1.35v, but it makes 0 difference. It is actually the only kit which I stuck into the board and it ran at 1600mhz off the bat, however there is also no XMP profile for it.


----------



## samwiches

Oh I forgot, I've been looking for info on VTT and IMC. I was under the impression that they were the same thing, but on these boards they have different voltages. I bet you will say that they don't need to be changed, but I still want to know what the difference is between them.

(I'm actually disappointed that my PLL overvoltage is already on, cause these IB's are all hitting a wall at 4.6)


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Oh I forgot, I've been looking for info on VTT and IMC. I was under the impression that they were the same thing, but on these boards they have different voltages. I bet you will say that they don't need to be changed, but I still want to know what the difference is between them.
> (I'm actually disappointed that my PLL overvoltage is already on, cause these IB's are all hitting a wall at 4.6)


what do you mean hitting a wall at 4.6?

vccio is vtt and vccsa is imc.


----------



## MaddogBG27

Ok guys I have a problem with this mobo. I just put together a new ring i5 3570k GIGABYTE Z77X UD5H and 16G of G. Skill Rip Jaw series ram @ 1600 + new intel 330 120g SSD and win7 64bit. I am using my Corsair 750W True power PSU and a MSI 560TI. My problem is the following and i am in windows the computer will completely freeze up i mean you can not do anything, and after 1min it will shut it self down. When i checked MMC i got a ID 41 critical error. I did a mem 86 test and it cleared the ram ran it for 6 hours. I am running out of options of what it could be, can it be a bad mobo? I just update to the F6i bios, but i have a feeling that wont help either, FYI the 3570k is ruining at 3.6Ghz on stock cooler for the moment until i can save up for Corsair H100. Any help will be greatly appreciative because i am thinking about RMAing the mobo.


----------



## coolhandluke41

@ Sin can you please explain all about Dynamic GFX Core (i'm working with offset mode )


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Oh I forgot, I've been looking for info on VTT and IMC. I was under the impression that they were the same thing, but on these boards they have different voltages. I bet you will say that they don't need to be changed, but I still want to know what the difference is between them.
> (I'm actually disappointed that my PLL overvoltage is already on, cause these IB's are all hitting a wall at 4.6)
> 
> 
> 
> what do you mean hitting a wall at 4.6?
> 
> vccio is vtt and vccsa is imc.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

What I mean is that on three IB's it's like 4600 is the limit. Basically it's like this:

4400 1.22v
4500 1.24v
4600 1.25-1.27v (not sure)
4700 won't boot--tried all the way up to 1.35v


----------



## CircuitFreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddogBG27*
> 
> Ok guys I have a problem with this mobo. I just put together a new ring i5 3570k GIGABYTE Z77X UD5H and 16G of G. Skill Rip Jaw series ram @ 1600 + new intel 330 120g SSD and win7 64bit. I am using my Corsair 750W True power PSU and a MSI 560TI. My problem is the following and i am in windows the computer will completely freeze up i mean you can not do anything, and after 1min it will shut it self down. When i checked MMC i got a ID 41 critical error. I did a mem 86 test and it cleared the ram ran it for 6 hours. I am running out of options of what it could be, can it be a bad mobo? I just update to the F6i bios, but i have a feeling that wont help either, FYI the 3570k is ruining at 3.6Ghz on stock cooler for the moment until i can save up for Corsair H100. Any help will be greatly appreciative because i am thinking about RMAing the mobo.


I had somewhat of the same thing I think its the fact that the IMC voltage is not close enough to the CPU VTT on default settings in the bios. Try setting the IMC and CPU VTT within .005 of each other.

look here for more info

http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Thanks.
> What I mean is that on three IB's it's like 4600 is the limit. Basically it's like this:
> 4400 1.22v
> 4500 1.24v
> 4600 1.25-1.27v (not sure)
> 4700 won't boot--tried all the way up to 1.35v


try higher vcore from the limit where the CPu is okay on 24.7 OC to where it isn't iut might need more vcore. Try like 1.55v and see how high it can go. none of them should stop at 4.6ghz. Perhaps all of yours are from the same batch and just suck. lol. What are you using to cool them?


----------



## samwiches

Well the first two were a 3770K and a 3570K with a Havik 140. The Havik could handle 82C @ 1.44v on my old 2500K so I think that's enough.

At the moment I have this:
http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a4/a474fa29_4400.PNG

It's a 3210 batch.


----------



## MaddogBG27

Ok will try and see if it helps any, because these random freezes are just plain stupid! Quick questiong should i bring the IMC up to the voltage of the CPU VTT or should i drop the CPU VTT to .005 of the IMC?


----------



## samwiches

Maddog, run it without the graphics card for awhile. If things are better without it, then try newer or older video drivers.


----------



## MaddogBG27

Well going to bed tonight will try tomorrow, never assumed that it could be my GPU, i have had it for over a year and it has been rock solid, but i will try it out.


----------



## UNOE

When all three PCIE slots are occupied with the GA-Z77X-UD5H with three 3.0 cards (7970's) This will run trifire at x8, x4, x4 PCIE 3.0. Correct ?
But this will not run three 680's with triple SLI ?


----------



## Dmac73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> When all three PCIE slots are occupied with the GA-Z77X-UD5H with three 3.0 cards (7970's) This will run trifire at x8, x4, x4 PCIE 3.0. Correct ?
> But this will not run three 680's with triple SLI ?


Correct.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Has anyone else's XMP profile option disappeared from their BIOS while using a 2500k + UD5H? I had it in the BIOS the board shipped with, now it's gone. This screenshot shows where the option originally was:
> 
> Using Samsung 30nm sticks.


my XMP is disabled also.

Does anyone know why?


----------



## deyura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddogBG27*
> 
> Ok guys I have a problem with this mobo. I just put together a new ring i5 3570k GIGABYTE Z77X UD5H and 16G of G. Skill Rip Jaw series ram @ 1600 + new intel 330 120g SSD and win7 64bit. I am using my Corsair 750W True power PSU and a MSI 560TI. My problem is the following and i am in windows the computer will completely freeze up i mean you can not do anything, and after 1min it will shut it self down. When i checked MMC i got a ID 41 critical error. I did a mem 86 test and it cleared the ram ran it for 6 hours. I am running out of options of what it could be, can it be a bad mobo? I just update to the F6i bios, but i have a feeling that wont help either, FYI the 3570k is ruining at 3.6Ghz on stock cooler for the moment until i can save up for Corsair H100. Any help will be greatly appreciative because i am thinking about RMAing the mobo.


same problem

Have configuration:
GA-Z77-D3H (bios F12, 26 april)
G.Skill F3-1600C9D-8GAB
i7-3770K
Radeon GV-R777D5-1GD (driver 12.4, bios F3)
Seasonic 500w
Windows 7 x64, all latest drivers from gigabyte site
Тemperature: CPU < 55C, VideoCard < 60C, Z77 = 25C

Once a day, maybe a bowl PC freezes and then itself power off.
No blue screen, in windows jornal no problem.

Try to do:
1. Memtest 3 hours - OK
2. in windows Hibernate, Screen Off, USB off, HDD off - disabled
3. Turbo Boost - disabled in bios
4. PCI-E set to 2.0
5. Set memory to lower timing & normal operation mode

Nothing helps


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Has anyone else's XMP profile option disappeared from their BIOS while using a 2500k + UD5H? I had it in the BIOS the board shipped with, now it's gone. This screenshot shows where the option originally was:
> 
> Using Samsung 30nm sticks.
> 
> 
> 
> my XMP is disabled also.
> 
> Does anyone know why?
Click to expand...

Sin mentioned a couple pages back that there are no XMP profiles yet for the Samsungs.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Sin mentioned a couple pages back that there are no XMP profiles yet for the Samsungs.


Thanks for getting back to me









I am not sure how XMP profiles work.

Will they be included in future BIOS updates?


----------



## Greg4422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddogBG27*
> 
> Ok guys I have a problem with this mobo. I just put together a new ring i5 3570k GIGABYTE Z77X UD5H and 16G of G. Skill Rip Jaw series ram @ 1600 + new intel 330 120g SSD and win7 64bit. I am using my Corsair 750W True power PSU and a MSI 560TI. My problem is the following and i am in windows the computer will completely freeze up i mean you can not do anything, and after 1min it will shut it self down. When i checked MMC i got a ID 41 critical error. I did a mem 86 test and it cleared the ram ran it for 6 hours. I am running out of options of what it could be, can it be a bad mobo? I just update to the F6i bios, but i have a feeling that wont help either, FYI the 3570k is ruining at 3.6Ghz on stock cooler for the moment until i can save up for Corsair H100. Any help will be greatly appreciative because i am thinking about RMAing the mobo.


Hello Guys, new user...loving the forum and loving my UD5H despite the minor hiccups. I'm having very similar freezing issues as MaddogBG27 and deyura. PC is mostly stable running at stock speeds, but will randomly freeze requiring a reset and reboot. Currently on bios F8a.

*update* Tried setting the IMC to 1.050 and the CPU Vtt to 1.055, (within .005 of each other)....system froze after about an hour


----------



## Rondik

I had a question, what is stock vcore for i5-3570k?

I noticed with vcore settings set to auto, and no overclock but the turbo boost, it goes as high as 1.2 - 1.2112 v @ 3.8 ghz

Isn't that too high for not overclocking? Should I manually set the vcore to something lower even if not doing any overclock or just leave it as is?


----------



## samwiches

If it's like Sandy Bridge chips on Z68 then vcore at stock speed will depend on the cooling and the chip's VID--hotter temps and higher VID can mean higher vcore.

It seems like normal load voltage ranges from 1.15v to 1.20v (+/-).


----------



## nimitz87

got a UD5H-WB on the way after RMA'ing my MSI z77GDU65 for a bad NIC card.

this board looks awesome, anything I should know of right away with it?


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> If it's like Sandy Bridge chips on Z68 then vcore at stock speed will depend on the cooling and the chip's VID--hotter temps and higher VID can mean higher vcore.
> It seems like normal load voltage ranges from 1.15v to 1.20v (+/-).


Oh ok, I set the multiplier to 40, 41, 42, and 43, and at auto it still is 1.2-1.2112v @ full load, I figured at higher multiplier it would need more voltage. Maybe if i push it to 4.5 I will need it.


----------



## spena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> UD5H:
> This is for 4.5ghz and 1600mhz XMP memory: http://www.mediafire.com/?u15dl7pprsjjsir
> THis is for 4.5ghz and DVID offset: http://www.mediafire.com/?dk1k7vqywz1oe4d
> You will need to use the latest BIOS versions or else you might not have the option to load a BIOS.


yay profile sharing begins! will try this out tonight and hopefully perform better than my 4.5ghz @ 1.33v with max temp of 93







.


----------



## craney

Hi guys, is anyone using the F7 bios with a Z77X-D3H board? I'm still on F6 and keep getting the boot failure upon a reboot sometimes although entering and exiting the bios boots to windows fine, just curious if F7 fixes this issue?

Didnt want to upgrade if it was a bit buggy as F6 seems to be fine apart from the above


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spena*
> 
> yay profile sharing begins! will try this out tonight and hopefully perform better than my 4.5ghz @ 1.33v with max temp of 93
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


What's your CPU batch #? I need similar voltage for my L204B361 at 4.5Ghz


----------



## br030hk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deyura*
> 
> same problem
> Have configuration:
> GA-Z77-D3H (bios F12, 26 april)
> G.Skill F3-1600C9D-8GAB
> i7-3770K
> Radeon GV-R777D5-1GD (driver 12.4, bios F3)
> Seasonic 500w
> Windows 7 x64, all latest drivers from gigabyte site
> Тemperature: CPU < 55C, VideoCard < 60C, Z77 = 25C
> Once a day, maybe a bowl PC freezes and then itself power off.
> No blue screen, in windows jornal no problem.
> Try to do:
> 1. Memtest 3 hours - OK
> 2. in windows Hibernate, Screen Off, USB off, HDD off - disabled
> 3. Turbo Boost - disabled in bios
> 4. PCI-E set to 2.0
> 5. Set memory to lower timing & normal operation mode
> Nothing helps


Would like to know a solution to this issue as well, thanks.


----------



## Dev0

Same for me, new user, F8a bios, F4 backup. Hiccups aren't so minor, the random resets happen almost invariably within 2 minutes of startup, regardless of OS. I've tried native installs of windows 7 and Ubuntu 12.04, as well as running Ubuntu live with no disks attached. Crashes all around. Changing bclk to 100.1, and 99.95 did not change anything.


----------



## Sin0822

There should be a new bios out soon to fix a lot of these outstanding issues. perhaps maybe even pll ov added.


----------



## spena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> What's your CPU batch #? I need similar voltage for my L204B361 at 4.5Ghz


my batch is L207A970.
whew im not alone, i thought it was my poor overclocking since im a firsttimer at it


----------



## choikugi

For those who have random freezing or lock up issue, check this thread

I also had this issue before and now I have not seen same issue again since yesterday after I entered 100.1 as BCLK value through bios.

I know it had been very very annoying and I was thinking to get refund or change to another board.

Anyway, if I experience this random lockup again, I will keep you posted.

===========

No random freeze so far since yesterday. I used to have those kind of lockup only in OS NOT in bios. When I was doing web browsing, I used to got them.

=================
UD5H Wifi/Bluetooth !!
2500K 4.6 1.39V (Passed Prime95 30min)
8GB RAM two channels
Samsung 830 256GB SSD
X FI HD

Bios setting
BCLK 100.10
NO C3/C6 (C1E is enabled)
Intel turbo boost setting
core 0: 49
core 1: 48
core 2: 47
core 3: 46
================
I am guessing the fix might be disabling C3/C6 or BCLK 100.10 or both.
I could test individual settings but I dont want to see random freeze again


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> @ Sin can you please explain all about Dynamic GFX Core (i'm working with offset mode )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> Hi guys, is anyone using the F7 bios with a Z77X-D3H board? I'm still on F6 and keep getting the boot failure upon a reboot sometimes although entering and exiting the bios boots to windows fine, just curious if F7 fixes this issue?
> Didnt want to upgrade if it was a bit buggy as F6 seems to be fine apart from the above


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choikugi*
> 
> For those who have random freezing or lock up issue, check this thread
> I also had this issue before and now I have not seen same issue again since yesterday after I entered 100.1 as BCLK value through bios.
> I know it had been very very annoying and I was thinking to get refund or change to another board.
> Anyway, if I experience this random lockup again, I will keep you posted.


there will be a BIOS release soon I was told recently that will take care of a lot of these issues.
coolhandluke i have no idea about that, it is probably just the iGPUs crap i have no idea lol. I always diable the iGPU unless I do virtu, in that case the iGPU OC doesn't help for MVp score.


----------



## thinkthis

Thought I would update my problem from a few weeks ago (boot issues when running XMP memory profile).

Anyway, I just reset to optimized bios and my problems went away.

I'm currently running a UD5H with a 2700K at 4.5GHz (stock voltage) - 16 GB of 1600Mhz Ram at 1.35 volts.

Everything is rock solid, no lock ups, no freezing of any kind. Low temps, just beautiful.

Anyway, I find most people who post do so because they have problems and it is nice to be reminded that for a lot of us everything is working great and there is hope for you too!


----------



## choikugi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> there will be a BIOS release soon I was told recently that will take care of a lot of these issues.
> coolhandluke i have no idea about that, it is probably just the iGPUs crap i have no idea lol. I always diable the iGPU unless I do virtu, in that case the iGPU OC doesn't help for MVp score.


Thank you sir for letting us know the fix is on the way. I am not 100% sure what is causing this issue but it is good to hear that Gigabyte is acknowledged and working on it. As I mentioned in previous reply, As I do not have any serious problem now, I will see if I need to update using new bios which is Gigabyte is working on it.

As Gigabyte has just moved to UEFI world, I have been expecting some issues. I hope they work very hard to make system stable through frequent bios update.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thinkthis*
> 
> Thought I would update my problem from a few weeks ago (boot issues when running XMP memory profile).
> Anyway, I just reset to optimized bios and my problems went away.
> I'm currently running a UD5H with a 2700K at 4.5GHz (stock voltage) - 16 GB of 1600Mhz Ram at 1.35 volts.
> Everything is rock solid, no lock ups, no freezing of any kind. Low temps, just beautiful.
> Anyway, I find most people who post do so because they have problems and it is nice to be reminded that for a lot of us everything is working great and there is hope for you too!


Yeah mine ran pretty good with the 2600k and is doing pretty good with the 3770K. Seems like a lot of people waited for IB to update their rigs and jumped in right away, and now they are having problems with immature BIOS and wanting to jump ship from whatever board they have to another brand. I understand the frustration, but sometimes jumping on a new platform is gonna cause some misery for some.
Hopefully newer BIOS updates will fix up all the folks with Gigabyte boards having problems.......but Gigabyte boards aren't the only ones where everything doesn't always work right out of the gate. It doesn't take long strolling the net to find problems with other brands.....


----------



## br030hk

Hi, Just received the board today, as I finish putting all components together.. (breadboard)

Then I hit the power up button on mobo.. CPU fan starts running for about 5 seconds then the system just shuts off itself leaving on the power supply still on then the motherboard shows error code 51. Any knows what this means? Plz urgent. thanks.

EDIT) After couple minutes of trying out I found out system wont post and show code 51 particularly with that one specific RAM stick. When I use the OTHER ram stick.. system pass through 51 and shows AE and screen shows up message looking for boot device.

My question is what is code AE?


----------



## Dmac73

Knock on wood but F4 has been flawless for me. Anyone else not bother updating BIOS?


----------



## br030hk

Also where is the connector for POST beep speaker?.. Maybe Im not looking careful enough.. I cant find it anywhere..

EDIT: found the speaker connector. Got the post beep.. Now I'm going to proceed with window installation.. Sore for excessive noob questions.. First time builder..


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Hi, Just received the board today, as I finish putting all components together.. (breadboard)
> Then I hit the power up button on mobo.. CPU fan starts running for about 5 seconds then the system just shuts off itself leaving on the power supply still on then the motherboard shows error code 51. Any knows what this means? Plz urgent. thanks.
> EDIT) After couple minutes of trying out I found out system wont post and show code 51 particularly with that one specific RAM stick. When I use the OTHER ram stick.. system pass through 51 and shows AE and screen shows up message looking for boot device.
> My question is what is code AE?


Codes are in back of manual.


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Also where is the connector for POST beep speaker?.. Maybe Im not looking careful enough.. I cant find it anywhere..
> EDIT: found the speaker connector. Got the post beep.. Now I'm going to proceed with window installation.. Sore for excessive noob questions.. First time builder..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Hi, Just received the board today, as I finish putting all components together.. (breadboard)
> Then I hit the power up button on mobo.. CPU fan starts running for about 5 seconds then the system just shuts off itself leaving on the power supply still on then the motherboard shows error code 51. Any knows what this means? Plz urgent. thanks.
> EDIT) After couple minutes of trying out I found out system wont post and show code 51 particularly with that one specific RAM stick. When I use the OTHER ram stick.. system pass through 51 and shows AE and screen shows up message looking for boot device.
> My question is what is code AE?


Your manual, use it. They put it in the box with the board for a reason.


----------



## spena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> This is for 4.5ghz and 1600mhz XMP memory: http://www.mediafire.com/?u15dl7pprsjjsir


so far so good after 4 hours on prime95 blend. Tweaked the profile to 1.3v instead of 1.32v.
this is my best result on 4.5ghz







thanks sin!


----------



## CaptainChaos

I bumped mine up to 4.7 using Sins profile and I had prime running for 13 hours today. Nice and stable. I'm gonna shoot for 4.8 - 5ghz (wishful thinking) and after I'm settled at a speed I'll work on the voltage.


----------



## br030hk

Up and running for a couple of hours. Havent yet discovered any problems besides the 51 error code with one of the RAM sticks. Going to RMA it tomorrow and pick up something else. Any suggestions for RAM with ud5h? Budget is around $60.

Considering the 2 famous rams.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145345

If clearance is not an issue, which one would you recommend?

Thanks.


----------



## Dmac73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br030hk*
> 
> Up and running for a couple of hours. Havent yet discovered any problems besides the 51 error code with one of the RAM sticks. Going to RMA it tomorrow and pick up something else. Any suggestions for RAM with ud5h? Budget is around $60.
> Considering the 2 famous rams.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145345
> If clearance is not an issue, which one would you recommend?
> Thanks.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313234


----------



## grizindabox

Going to RMA this board tomorrow. Can not get the north bridge to initialize (Code 15) when booting with RAM in slots 2 and/or 4.


----------



## MaddogBG27

Man this is getting really old I really think it has something to do with USB. No matter what bios i use my Logitech keyboard will not detect under bios, and when i switched to my old razor keyboard the freezing stopped... so I don't know i am going to try to turn off the build in GPU and see if that has any effect.


----------



## samwiches

I don't remember if you have the UD3H, but if you do then try another set of USB ports. The ones under the NIC connection are by Intel and the rest are by VIA.


----------



## samwiches

Tweak launcher was working fine yesterday, and now I get this before it starts:


(This Driver can't release to failure!)

It comes up fine after that, but I'm afraid to do anything with it right now. Already tried re-installing, and re-installed EZ Tune just in case they're dependent. But I don't like EZ Tune at all.


----------



## MaddogBG27

Well I have tried that and it is not helping it has happened like 3 times today so annoying i really hope GB is working on a fix because i am going to tolerate this till for a few more days and i am going to RMA the board...


----------



## Snakes

Is there any point in having Intel Rapid Storage Technology installed if you aren't using a RAID configuration? I see that it's running in the background but I don't know if it's actually doing anything for me. I installed it because it was listed under drivers on the Gigabyte page.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Going to RMA this board tomorrow. Can not get the north bridge to initialize (Code 15) when booting with RAM in slots 2 and/or 4.


Why 2 and/or 4 ?









Check your manual first for dual channel slots.

Code:



Code:


For optimum performance, when enabling Dual Channel mode with two memory modules, 
we recommend that you install them 
in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_2 sockets.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Thanks for getting back to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure how XMP profiles work.
> Will they be included in future BIOS updates?


Also,
in Gigabyte Z77 BIOS XMP (Profile 1 and 2) is already implemented, so check your memory first.


----------



## SuperKW

got my 3770k yesterday , i tried with lowest voltage possible wich is [email protected],temp 35 idle and 83 load useing intel RTS2011LC cooler, its pass intel burn test going to test it with prime95 later,btw guys any one here useing UD5H with x2 GTX680's ? my score in 3dmark11 is lower than my old board asus p8p67 (x6150 with old board and x6020 new board) did i miss something in the setting ?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Tweak launcher was working fine yesterday, and now I get this before it starts:
> 
> (This Driver can't release to failure!)
> It comes up fine after that, but I'm afraid to do anything with it right now. Already tried re-installing, and re-installed EZ Tune just in case they're dependent. But I don't like EZ Tune at all.


I get that and another funky message. I decided not to use it and stick to good old tweaking inside the BIOS.


----------



## spena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spena*
> 
> so far so good after 4 hours on prime95 blend. Tweaked the profile to 1.3v instead of 1.32v.
> this is my best result on 4.5ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks sin!


after 9hours one of the tester failed







bumped up the vcore and currently running prime blend again (4.5ghz 1.305v on Sin's profile). really hoping this would be stable enough for me to run 24/7
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainChaos*
> 
> I bumped mine up to 4.7 using Sins profile and I had prime running for 13 hours today. Nice and stable. I'm gonna shoot for 4.8 - 5ghz (wishful thinking) and after I'm settled at a speed I'll work on the voltage.


im jealous, my 3570k does not like anything over 4.6ghz on <1.35v


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Is there any point in having Intel Rapid Storage Technology installed if you aren't using a RAID configuration? I see that it's running in the background but I don't know if it's actually doing anything for me. I installed it because it was listed under drivers on the Gigabyte page.


I think it helps with some SSD features so id keep it. I asked SeanWebster the storage go to guy around here the same thing and he told me to install it. Fyi i think the IRST drivers on the gigabyte website are old. There are more current ones on the Intel site


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Going to RMA this board tomorrow. Can not get the north bridge to initialize (Code 15) when booting with RAM in slots 2 and/or 4.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddogBG27*
> 
> Man this is getting really old I really think it has something to do with USB. No matter what bios i use my Logitech keyboard will not detect under bios, and when i switched to my old razor keyboard the freezing stopped... so I don't know i am going to try to turn off the build in GPU and see if that has any effect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperKW*
> 
> got my 3770k yesterday , i tryed with lowest voltage possible wich is [email protected],temp 35 idle and 83 load useing intel RTS2011LC cooler, its pass intel burn test going to test it with prime95 later,btw guys any one here useing UD5H with x2 GTX680's ? my score in 3dmark11 is lower than my old board asus p8p67 (x6150 with old board and x6020 new board) did i miss something in the setting ?


Guys, it would be extremely helpful if you would include your system specs when asking for help with an issue.

Griz, your using the wrong slots. check manual.

Mad, I am using Logitech keyboard and no issues nav bios.

Super, it would be helpful if to others in the forum when reading your post if you could take the time to spell. not trying to be an ass but how hard is it. the wrong spelling is underlined in red for pete's sake. you can check yourself to see if anyone is using dual 680's by looking at their specs and those scores are pretty darn close. Could be lots of reasons for the difference but without you providing more information, impossible for anyone to provide any meaningful feedback.


----------



## SuperKW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Guys, it would be extremely helpful if you would include your system specs when asking for help with an issue.
> Griz, your using the wrong slots. check manual.
> Mad, I am using Logitech keyboard and no issues nav bios.
> Super, it would be helpful if to others in the forum when reading your post if you could take the time to spell. not trying to be an ass but how hard is it. the wrong spelling is underlined in red for pete's sake. you can check yourself to see if anyone is using dual 680's by looking at their specs and those scores are pretty darn close. Could be lots of reasons for the difference but without you providing more information, impossible tor anyone to provide any meaningful feedback.


Thanks thats helps a lot ! you want me to check every one rig in this 89 pages thread ?


----------



## FarmerBob

Hi, I am considering buying the GA-Z77X-UD5H, and I'm wondering if someone can confirm something for me regarding the VirtuMVP capabilites.

Does the board support dMode? I need to drive a 27" panel at 2560x1440 over DVI-D. I'm pretty sure the on-board DVI will not support that resolution. HDMI and Display Port are not options for me as I am already using those inputs on my monitor. I would like to be able to use the Virtual VSync and HyperFormance features, but they need to be available via my discrete card's DVI-D output.

Are there any owners out there that can confirm whether this is possible with the Gigabyte UD5? I have looked into a few Asus boards and they do support this mode. However, they are also more expensive.

Thanks!


----------



## grizindabox

Actually, I am not using the incorrect slots. If I put RAM in slot 1 or slot 3 or both slot 1 and 3 the system boots fine but if I put RAM in any configuration that includes either slot 2 or 4 the north bridge will not initialize. That means RAM in slot 2 does not work, in slot 4 does not work, in 1 and 2 does not work, etc. etc. etc.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperKW*
> 
> Thanks thats helps a lot ! you want me to check every one rig in this 89 pages thread ?


If you click on the Rigbuilder link at the upper right of the page you can sort by different categories, including type of graphics card. Your attitude not withstanding, I was trying to provide you with a reasonable suggestion.

Griz, in your manual they identify the slots (starting furthest away from cpu and working in toward cpu) as slot 1, slot 3, slot 2, slot 4. I think that is why it was assumed you were using the wrong slots when installing two sticks of ram. For your configuration, you must use slot 1 and 2, or slot 3 and 4.


----------



## Snakes

Oops, nevermind.


----------



## grizindabox

barkeater, I know. If i put Ram in the first bank of slots, slots 1 & 3 the system will boot, but as soon as I place RAM into either slot in the second bank, the one closest to the CPU, slots 2 & 4 I get LED error code 15 for north bridge initialization and the system will shut off and attempt to boot again and again.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I think it helps with some SSD features so id keep it. I asked SeanWebster the storage go to guy around here the same thing and he told me to install it. Fyi i think the IRST drivers on the gigabyte website are old. There are more current ones on the Intel site


I noticed that on Intel's site but their drivers list was more confusing and I decided to go with Gigabyte's. On Intel they have one newer version but they have two drivers, one says RAID and one says AHCI but they both have the same filename, and then you have to download a driver and a diskette zip file (huh?) to install it. I should look into that again maybe and figure it out.

I tried just installing the AHCI driver, and ignored the diskette file. It installed fine and didn't ever specify that it was RAID or AHCI, I think they were the same file but listed differently for some reason. Weird.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I noticed that on Intel's site but their drivers list was more confusing and I decided to go with Gigabyte's. On Intel they have one newer version but they have two drivers, one says RAID and one says AHCI, and then you have to download a driver and a diskette (huh?) to install it. I should look into that again maybe and figure it out.


yeah the Intel download page was really confusing. You're probably fine sticking with the one off the gigabyte website.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> yeah the Intel download page was really confusing. You're probably fine sticking with the one off the gigabyte website.


I updated my last post, I ended up installing only the AHCI driver and skipped the RAID driver and the diskette file. I think they were the same file because installing it, it was only called Intel Rapid Storage Technology and never specified RAID or AHCI. Plus they have the same version number and same filename. Pretty confusing but I think it's fine now. The diskette file was probably for people who want to load the driver during boot up, they could have just said that in the description but noooope.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spena*
> 
> after 9hours one of the tester failed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bumped up the vcore and currently running prime blend again (4.5ghz 1.305v on Sin's profile). really hoping this would be stable enough for me to run 24/7
> im jealous, my 3570k does not like anything over 4.6ghz on <1.35v


just try bumping the vcore, or lower the CPU PLL Voltage a bit more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Tweak launcher was working fine yesterday, and now I get this before it starts:
> 
> (This Driver can't release to failure!)
> It comes up fine after that, but I'm afraid to do anything with it right now. Already tried re-installing, and re-installed EZ Tune just in case they're dependent. But I don't like EZ Tune at all.


yea this error always comes up for me, just ignore it. You have to run this program as the administrator from windows7, if you don't' you get a whole other slew of errors. But that error is okay for the tim being it works even with it coming up.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spena*
> 
> so far so good after 4 hours on prime95 blend. Tweaked the profile to 1.3v instead of 1.32v.
> this is my best result on 4.5ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks sin!


yo Sin, when you gonna set us up with another profile for the UD5? Running Prime on the 4.5 GHz profile now and everything looks good.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> yo Sin, when you gonna set us up with another profile for the UD5? Running Prime on the 4.5 GHz profile now and everything looks good.


what kind of profile do you want?


----------



## barkeater

double post


----------



## barkeater

triple post


----------



## barkeater

sorry for the triple post, as the first one didn't look like it took. I don't know, how about 4.8?

While I'm at it, is there any advantage to trying to keep the memory closer to the XMP profile and tightening up the timings and running 1T as opposed to trying to OC the ram as high as possible while maintaining stability?


----------



## ivymaxwell

Hey sin in f7 and f8a(the only two i tested) the ddr voltage is auto at 1.5v and if i set it at 1.35v itll work and show that voltage on next reboot in et6. but on the next reboot et6 shows it goes back to 1.5v, and if you reboot again n check bios it is still set at 1.35v where i put it but it boots with 1.5v. so in other words it will go to your specified lower voltage on your reboot after you set, but when you restart your computer again it will go back to 1.5 even though it still set at 1.35v in bios! so tell your bios engineers.

this is the ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231461


----------



## Sin0822

if the BIOS still reports 1.35v i would go with that, ET6 might not be correctly updating itself. Try the GTL program and see what it says.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivymaxwell*
> 
> Hey sin in f7 and f8a(the only two i tested) the ddr voltage is auto at 1.5v and if i set it at 1.35v itll work and show that voltage on next reboot in et6. but on the next reboot et6 shows it goes back to 1.5v, and if you reboot again n check bios it is still set at 1.35v where i put it but it boots with 1.5v. so in other words it will go to your specified lower voltage on your reboot after you set, but when you restart your computer again it will go back to 1.5 even though it still set at 1.35v in bios! so tell your bios engineers.
> 
> this is the ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231461


Check your DDR LLC level. The choices pretty confusing in my opinion, but using Auto got my Sumsungs working at 1.35v.


----------



## ivymaxwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> if the BIOS still reports 1.35v i would go with that, ET6 might not be correctly updating itself. Try the GTL program and see what it says.


Nope, what i meant was that it still set at what i put in bios, even though it will boot at 1.5 thereafter. so it seems the voltage that you set will only be applied once for ram. then next reboot it just goes back to the auto voltage even tho you set a manual voltage.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Why 2 and/or 4 ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check your manual first for dual channel slots.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> For optimum performance, when enabling Dual Channel mode with two memory modules,
> we recommend that you install them
> in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_2 sockets.
> 
> Also,
> in Gigabyte Z77 BIOS XMP (Profile 1 and 2) is already implemented, so check your memory first.


What do you mean Stasio?

Check if the memory is faulty?

Any help you could give me would be appreciated.

For some reason i cannot change the voltage either unless i press F1 in the bios and go in to 3d bios mode (and it there i see that XMP is disabled)


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivymaxwell*
> 
> Nope, what i meant was that it still set at what i put in bios, even though it will boot at 1.5 thereafter. so it seems the voltage that you set will only be applied once for ram. then next reboot it just goes back to the auto voltage even tho you set a manual voltage.


Now what I mean is that ET6 might not be accurate for updating with the actual value. I have some 1.35v memory I will test this out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> What do you mean Stasio?
> Check if the memory is faulty?
> Any help you could give me would be appreciated.
> For some reason i cannot change the voltage either unless i press F1 in the bios and go in to 3d bios mode (and it there i see that XMP is disabled)


if you are having odd issues, RMA the board, if there are odd isues that only one person or two people are having, best thing to do would be to RMA. GB RMA is pretty good.


----------



## mandrix

To try and keep voltage down I took a different direction for 4.5GHz.
I'm running the turbos at 45, Vcore normal with offset of 0.00 and LLC on high. Highest vcore when stressing with Prime 95 is 1.292v with droop to 1.284, idle vcore is around .900.
Ran Prime 95 stable for 5 hours until I had to take off for a while and shut it down. I'm pretty happy with it.
Highest temp was 85 briefly, using the NH-D14 cooler right now.

In comparison my Z68XP-UD3 with 2600k takes 1.404v with droop 1.392 to make 12 hours Prime 95 @ 4.5GHz.


----------



## spena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> what kind of profile do you want?


how about 4.6ghz under 1.3V on 3570k







thannks


----------



## samwiches

Hi I want my IB to run at 4.9 w/ 1.15v can you please make a profile for that thx.


----------



## Sin0822

yea haha if your CPU can do it, then just increase the multiplier to 46x lol.


----------



## Sin0822

haha i can make you one 5ghz with 1.2v, but you have to be at -190C for it to work


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> yo Sin, when you gonna set us up with another profile for the UD5? Running Prime on the 4.5 GHz profile now and everything looks good.


well I spoke too soon. 8 hrs into Prime and the worker 4 errored out. Guess I'll need to do some tweaking of the profile to get it stable. any suggestions?


----------



## WileyM

**** UD5H Bios... Can't enter Post with "Del", "End", etc. Bios ver = F4 ***

On start-up, the post screen pops up, but will not acknowledge "Del", "End", etc. The boot immediately continues into the O/S with no problem.

Some history... I did have to clear CMOS recently, to let me remove the Bios password that I shouldn't have created. The process went well, so no worries until I decided to update the bios today.

I have a good system backup.

Is there a process I can go through to re-enable my access to the post screen?


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> well I spoke too soon. 8 hrs into Prime and the worker 4 errored out. Guess I'll need to do some tweaking of the profile to get it stable. any suggestions?


I don't understand why everyone here has this obsession with prime95. Are you running prime to help with PrimeNet? If not, why does it need to run for days on end?

I am still waiting for my Ivy to come in the mail... If you guys dislike yours processors enough to flog them instead of using them, I will happily take one.


----------



## Dev0

The random crash issues disappeared after setting the BCLK to 99.5MHz. Hope that helps someone.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WileyM*
> 
> **** UD5H Bios... Can't enter Post with "Del", "End", etc. Bios ver = F4 ***
> On start-up, the post screen pops up, but will not acknowledge "Del", "End", etc. The boot immediately continues into the O/S with no problem.
> Some history... I did have to clear CMOS recently, to let me remove the Bios password that I shouldn't have created. The process went well, so no worries until I decided to update the bios today.
> I have a good system backup.
> Is there a process I can go through to re-enable my access to the post screen?


Try plugging the keyboard into one of the USB 2.0 slots? Maybe it's not recognizing your keyboard.


----------



## vvilliamm

did u try plugging into one of the blue ones not the red.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> I don't understand why everyone here has this obsession with prime95. Are you running prime to help with PrimeNet? If not, why does it need to run for days on end?
> I am still waiting for my Ivy to come in the mail... If you guys dislike yours processors enough to flog them instead of using them, I will happily take one.


From what I've read it's a great way to see if your cpu is stable under extreme loads. It'll max out all your cores and test it's calculations against known answers. If you're just gaming a little instability probably isn't a big deal.


----------



## jonnyd91

i have really been out of the loop for a while, this is the first time in 4 years im OC my system. I OC my last system and just left it. I am just starting out simple, I go into the bios and under advanced Frequency settings I set the CPU clock ratio to 42 and my multiplier is set to 100.00. I disabled turbo boost and all power saving settings and saved the bios. I also set my memory to 1800MHZ. When i boot into windows and look at CPU-Z the core speed is always 3732.XX with a multiplier of X 37. I have no clue why it doesn't show 4200 and X 42. If I go back in bios the settings are all there and all correct. What Could I be doing wrong??


----------



## WileyM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Try plugging the keyboard into one of the USB 2.0 slots? Maybe it's not recognizing your keyboard.


Hey Snakes, you are psychic...and you didn't even know it! Ha, Ha!

Just before your reply showed up, I had deduced that the Microsoft 4000 keyboard did not get any spark until it had entered the operating system (Win 7 x64). I plugged a Logitech keyboard in to the USB3 port on the front panel, and what do ya know? That did it, I'm in!

However, I'm very puzzled now as to why the behavior of the Microsoft keyboard changed...coincidental to, or as a result of, the CMOS/bios reset. I'll try not to lose any sleep about the mystery, though.









Thanks very much for the reply. I'm off to give ver "F6" a try. I'm consistently getting 3 boot-tries at start-up, and random/unexplainable re-boots with "F4". No OC as yet.

Cheers.
Wiley
Oregon, USA


----------



## MaddogBG27

Well any news on when GB will release new BIOS the random freezing is getting old happened 3 times yesterday, today it is yet to happen. As far as my rig goes i have i5 3570k @ 3.8Ghz running corsair H60, 16G of G. Skill Rip Jaw series @ 1600 Mhz, obviously gigabyte Z77X UD5H, Intel 330 120G SSD, corsair 750W True power PSU, MSI 560ti twin fronzer and windows 7 64bit, i also have 3 HDD from seagate for another 3.3 TB. As i said before i am using F6i bios and i get random system freezes that end up shutting down the comp at random times, as far as the keyboard goes i have Logitech 510 and no matter what i do the keyboard is not recognized by the BIOS, only in Win 7 does it kick in. As some people have mentioned i have killed the integrated GPU but that did not help i have not messed with the voltage but may do so if GB does not fix this soon.


----------



## CaptainChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnyd91*
> 
> i have really been out of the loop for a while, this is the first time in 4 years im OC my system. I OC my last system and just left it. I am just starting out simple, I go into the bios and under advanced Frequency settings I set the CPU clock ratio to 42 and my multiplier is set to 100.00. I disabled turbo boost and all power saving settings and saved the bios. I also set my memory to 1800MHZ. When i boot into windows and look at CPU-Z the core speed is always 3732.XX with a multiplier of X 37. I have no clue why it doesn't show 4200 and X 42. If I go back in bios the settings are all there and all correct. What Could I be doing wrong??


Make sure you have the latest version of CPU-Z. I had an older version that was giving me the same problem.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddogBG27*
> 
> Well any news on when GB will release new BIOS the random freezing is getting old happened 3 times yesterday, today it is yet to happen. As i said before i am using F6i bios and i get random system freezes that end up shutting down the comp at random times, as far as the keyboard goes i have Logitech 510 and no matter what i do the keyboard is not recognized by the BIOS, only in Win 7 does it kick in.


As far I know for UD5H,G510 keyboard is supported with F6l BIOS.
You have also F7a,F7 and F8a BIOS,btw try to set BCLK to 100.10 as reported help in many cases to stop freeezing.
So,flash your F6i BIOS with any newer posted above.


----------



## mandrix

I seem to be having problems with Catalyst Control Center crashing when I try to go to 4.6GHz. I can go back to 4.5 and no problems.
Other times it will blue screen with one of the AMD drivers listed. When cold booting at 4.6 there will be a kind of long single beep then the normal beep a few seconds later.
I've pulled the card and reseated a few times, cleaned the contacts with an eraser (all I had) and air.
Maybe I'll go back to 12.3 drivers and see what happens. Otherwise at 4.5GHz it runs good and passed all the usual tests.
Anyone seen this with the 12.4 Catalyst Control Suite?


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> if you are having odd issues, RMA the board, if there are odd isues that only one person or two people are having, best thing to do would be to RMA. GB RMA is pretty good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> .


I hope to leave an RMA until i exhaust all options.

Here are some screenshots of my BIOS to explain my situtaion better.(no XMP options for me)

Anyone else running Samsung Greens with this board?


----------



## Krysaenaar

Seemingly the greens have no XMP support as already stated before









Another issue i have is i cannot change any settings in 2D mode.

I have to press F1 and go into 3D mode to change settings.

Anyone else notice this?


----------



## stasio

Samsung Green DDR3L 1600 has *NO XMP* available.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Seemingly the greens have no XMP support as already stated before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another issue i have is i cannot change any settings in 2D mode.
> I have to press F1 and go into 3D mode to change settings.
> Anyone else notice this?


Use "+" and "-" or type any number you want.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Use "+" and "-"


Thank you stasio! I feel









Thank you for the patience to answer a noob's simple questions


----------



## r0ach

For all the people with freezing issues, try changing the PC from "balanced" to "high performance" in Windows 7 under power options. This turns off all the hibernate crap. My 2500k + UD5h freezes if I don't do this, with it on high performance, 0 freezes.


----------



## jonnyd91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainChaos*
> 
> Make sure you have the latest version of CPU-Z. I had an older version that was giving me the same problem.


im pretty sure i have the latest version.

Some more info, Basically if I change the CPU frequency to anything but 35 it registers in CPUz as 37.
It also doesnt look like it reflects correctly in the bios, I am using F7


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnyd91*
> 
> im pretty sure i have the latest version.


Latest CPU-Z is 1.60.2 Beta.


----------



## jonnyd91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Latest CPU-Z is 1.60.2 Beta.


That's not the problem. Still trying to nail down exactly what is going on. Flashed bios F6 from GB website, so i Downgraded from F7. On reboot, i loaded optimized defaults then booted into windows.
Rebooted again into bios, then the only things i changed was

set the multiplier to 40
Base clk to 100.00
disable turbo
disable the 4 power saving settings.
save reboot

Now CPUZ shows:
Core Speed 4035.35
Multiplier X40
Bus speed 100.9

I think that looks good.

So not sure exactly what was going on but i still need to tune other areas and not sure how to OC the memory yet.

Anyone have any settings for the samsung 32nm memory?


----------



## Sin0822

its 30nm and this board doesn't have XMP, but those sticks will run at 1600mhz off the bat without any changes, you can basically just set ddrr 2200 and see if they boot.


----------



## jonnyd91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> its 30nm and this board doesn't have XMP, but those sticks will run at 1600mhz off the bat without any changes, you can basically just set ddrr 2200 and see if they boot.


ok, so i can leave the timings and voltage on auto?
Im not really shooting for the moon, in the end I would like to be at 4.5 for the cpu and 2400 for the memory.


----------



## Sin0822

you prob wont get 2400mhz 24/7 it depends on how good the sticks you have are. I say leave it on auto as there is no XMP profile for it, it sets all the first latencies to 11 lol.


----------



## Greg4422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg4422*
> 
> Hello Guys, new user...loving the forum and loving my UD5H despite the minor hiccups. I'm having very similar freezing issues as MaddogBG27 and deyura. PC is mostly stable running at stock speeds, but will randomly freeze requiring a reset and reboot. Currently on bios F8a.
> *update* Tried setting the IMC to 1.050 and the CPU Vtt to 1.055, (within .005 of each other)....system froze after about an hour


Okay... my system appears to have stablized, but there's no "ah ha" moment...but rather a series of things I did..from info gleamed for you guys here, and the folks over at tweaktown and anandtech.

I re-seated my CPU
Moved my front panel USB 2.0 from the red powered header to a non powered header
Updated drivers from gigabye website
In addition to raising my IMC to 1.050 and the CPU Vtt to 1.055, (within .005 of each other) I also raised my CPU Vcore to 1.105 (so that it was above the new IMC value..as the default Vcore is above the default IMC value)



I also rasied the CPU/PCIe base clock from 100.00MHZ to 100.01MHZ which seems to work for me (some have reported success on 100.10 and 101)



I'm posting this in hopes that maybe it can help someone else having "freezing issues" but as I said I can't take credit for any of these ideas... I'm just passing along what I learned from others that help me. Good luck with your build.


----------



## Sin0822

all you really needed to do was set your vcore to 1.1v.


----------



## smurfbait

Has anyone seen an issue where the reported cpu temperature is stuck at 110C and does not change?
The core temperatures show fluctuation based on load, but the cpu temperature is stuck at 110c.
I have a ga-z77x-d3h gigabyte motherboard with default bios settings (F8 for the bios) and non overclocked 2500K.

See picture:


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smurfbait*
> 
> Has anyone seen an issue where the reported cpu temperature is stuck at 110C and does not change?
> The core temperatures show fluctuation based on load, but the cpu temperature is stuck at 110c.
> I have a ga-z77x-d3h gigabyte motherboard with default bios settings (F8 for the bios) and non overclocked 2500K.
> See picture:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome to OCN!









You can ignore that reading since it is clearly bogus. You only need to look at the core temps.

Which program is that BTW? Have you checked to see if there is an updated version?

Personally I use HWiNFO64 since I have found it to be more accurate (fewer bogus readings) than other monitors. It is also frequently updated.


----------



## smurfbait

coretemp, the gigabyte bios, and aida64 (newest version) all give the same wrong value.
I'll try hwinfo64 I guess.
I'm leaning toward thinking the temperature sensor is broken on the motherboard or cpu.


----------



## Sin0822

so in the BIOS it shows that your CPu temperature is 105C? all the time?


----------



## smurfbait

The bios shows the temperature as 110C always.
If I look at the individual core temperatures in the bios it shows a reasonable 30-35c.
CPU or motherboard?


----------



## anmills

Just completed my build using the U5DH MB with i5-3570, running Bios 8A.

I am new to OCN, so is there a suitable profile or recommendation yet for that combo with G.Skill DDR3 1866 Memory? (more details below)

Thanks in advance

GA-77X-UD5H
i5-3570k, CPU Cooler Corsair A70
Memory - F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900)


----------



## Sin0822

yea that should work well.

You shodul fill out your rig builder thingy and have your rig(system) displayed like mine.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smurfbait*
> 
> The bios shows the temperature as 110C always.
> If I look at the individual core temperatures in the bios it shows a reasonable 30-35c.
> CPU or motherboard?


reflash your BIOS.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg4422*
> 
> Moved my front panel USB 2.0 from the red powered header to a non powered header


Is there a difference between the two 2.0 headers? The manual doesn't say anything. I'm about to hook mine up so I'd like to know.

Did some looking around, I guess the red headers are supposed to support Gigabyte On/Off charge technology? I see no mention of this in the internal connectors section of the manual, strange.


----------



## Superhuman

So every time I turn on my computer, the CPU fan doesn't start spinning until about 5 seconds after I've pressed the power button. Is that happening to anyone else?

I'm using Z77X-UD3H with stock fan and 3570K. I've made sure everything is plugged in properly. I'm on F5 bios.


----------



## jonnyd91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superhuman*
> 
> So every time I turn on my computer, the CPU fan doesn't start spinning until about 5 seconds after I've pressed the power button. Is that happening to anyone else?
> I'm using Z77X-UD3H with stock fan and 3570K. I've made sure everything is plugged in properly. I'm on F5 bios.


when i was using the stock fan there were time at idle the fan wouldn't even spin. It has to do with the fan control on the MB, if its not hot enough it wont spin as fast, or i guess at all.


----------



## samwiches

Yeah, that's a stock cooler problem for me as well. I have it on the CPU header through a splitter, and the other fan spins up right away.

But they are both PWM fans, so I don't think the issue is related to the board.


----------



## MoOseimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> The only things you have to mess with are the CPU multiplyer and the CPU voltage. If you're getting errors you'll probably have to increase the voltage a little bit.
> There are some good sandy bridge overclocking guides in this thread -- http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet


*I was wondering what is considered high voltage i have been trying to get this Pc Overclocked but it just dont want to happen for meI have had it to 1.36 (but kinda weary going any higher and this is for a 4.3 or 4.4 OC. I looked at the page that suggested and tried several diff possibilities, i keep getting errors on the 4th core as soon as i start up prime 95 . I need a good program that will let me adjust the voltage form windows because restarting is kinda annoying . I tried the gigabyte utility Easy Tune6 (Intel) but when i start up the computer it turns off my cpu fan ?? after i remove the program the fan runs fine , Im lost lol*


----------



## PMantis24

Using the Gigabyte UD5H with an i5 3570K and I love it so far. I've always been an ASUS user but the Gigabyte board had features and components of more expensive boards so it was a great value to me. When you pick this up you can feel the weight, it's has a nice feel to it, the black PCB is very nice. Bios is very easy to use as well.

So far I have my i5 OCed to 4.5GHz @ 1.130v in the bios. Currently doing the usual stress tests and running smoothly.

Just wanted to give the UD5H a







and thanks to this thread, it was very influential in helping me pick a motherboard.


----------



## MoOseimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> *I was wondering what is considered high voltage i have been trying to get this Pc Overclocked but it just dont want to happen for meI have had it to 1.36 (but kinda weary going any higher and this is for a 4.3 or 4.4 OC. I looked at the page that suggested and tried several diff possibilities, i keep getting errors on the 4th core as soon as i start up prime 95 . I need a good program that will let me adjust the voltage form windows because restarting is kinda annoying . I tried the gigabyte utility Easy Tune6 (Intel) but when i start up the computer it turns off my cpu fan ?? after i remove the program the fan runs fine , Im lost lol*


My current bios version is F4 / should i get F5 or F6 ??


----------



## Rondik

Got a question if I manually set the vcore voltage to say 1.2v, is there a way to get it back to auto if it is idle? Because I don't need 1.2v at idle right?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> Got a question if I manually set the vcore voltage to say 1.2v, is there a way to get it back to auto if it is idle? Because I don't need 1.2v at idle right?


You need to use dynamic mode for that(aka offset). And it is a little trickier to get working.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> *I was wondering what is considered high voltage i have been trying to get this Pc Overclocked but it just dont want to happen for meI have had it to 1.36 (but kinda weary going any higher and this is for a 4.3 or 4.4 OC. I looked at the page that suggested and tried several diff possibilities, i keep getting errors on the 4th core as soon as i start up prime 95 . I need a good program that will let me adjust the voltage form windows because restarting is kinda annoying . I tried the gigabyte utility Easy Tune6 (Intel) but when i start up the computer it turns off my cpu fan ?? after i remove the program the fan runs fine , Im lost lol*


People have different opinions on what is considered "safe voltage". Apparently Intel's papers say 1.52v is the max for sandy bridge but I think most people agree that is pretty high. With your cooler I would stay below 1.4v. It's also a safe bet to make sure your temperatures don't exceed 80 degrees C, the lower the better obviously. There is a program I've seen Sin using to overclock within windows but I can't find it right now.. I'll keep looking and let you know. Maybe Sin can chime in and let us know as well. Easy Tune seems pretty shotty from what I've read around here so I'd stay away from it lol. I just use the BIOS but I understand how constantly restarting can get annoying.

Oh and some of the later BIOSes apparently improved overclocking with sandy bridge. I'd update it anyway. Here's the latest - F8a - from Stasio @ Tweaktown

Also, some people like to run Prime 95 for several hours. Personally, I only run it for maybe 10-15 minutes and then play some games and if it doesn't crash I'm happy. That said, I only really use my computer for gaming and internet so if some files get corrupted because of my overclock, no big deal. If you have a bunch of stuff you don't want to lose then maybe more stability testing is in order. Just food for thought.

EDIT: Here's what I saw Sin using.. It's called Tweak Launcher and you can download it here - http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/Utility.aspx?cg=2


----------



## anmills

I had done the rigbuilder., but didnt add to signature. It should be there now.

Hoping not too pushy, but do you have any input on my original question

so is there a suitable profile or recommendation yet for that combo with G.Skill DDR3 1866 Memory?

Thanks in advance


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmills*
> 
> I had done the rigbuilder., but didnt add to signature. It should be there now.
> Hoping not too pushy, but do you have any input on my original question
> so is there a suitable profile or recommendation yet for that combo with G.Skill DDR3 1866 Memory?
> Thanks in advance


Try this one Sin posted earlier. You might have to just change the ram speed to 1866. you may not have to change anything if its set to use default XMP profile..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Boys and Girls, men and women today I post some OC profiles, the first post of its kind. Here I post OC profiles for the UD5H and the UD3H and I want you guys to try them out and let me know what I should change on them. Also if you could try them and let me know if they work, I need to see whether it matters if I used a 3570K or 3770K to make the profiles. I have both CPUs so I can always make more profiles just with certain CPUs. I also have SB, so if SB owners could also try these profiles and see if they work.
> This profile sharing will totally change teh face of overclocking as we can now provide new users with profiles they can tweak, and everyone is open to provide their own.
> To use a profile you will need to open it take the file without extension inside the .RAR and place it on a thumb-drive formatted in FAT32 and then go into your BIOS and load profile from the USB drive.
> 
> UD5H:
> This is for 4.5ghz and 1600mhz XMP memory: http://www.mediafire.com/?u15dl7pprsjjsir
> THis is for 4.5ghz and DVID offset: http://www.mediafire.com/?dk1k7vqywz1oe4d
> You will need to use the latest BIOS versions or else you might not have the option to load a BIOS.


----------



## anmills

Thanks for the swift reply
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Try this one Sin posted earlier. You might have to just change the ram speed to 1866. you may not have to change anything if its set to use default XMP profile..


Just to confirm, I should use this one (and then change ram to 1866..)

UD5H: This is for 4.5ghz and 1600mhz XMP memory:


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmills*
> 
> Thanks for the swift reply
> Just to confirm, I should use this one (and then change ram to 1866..)
> UD5H: This is for 4.5ghz and 1600mhz XMP memory:


Yeah I would give that one a try first. It'll be the most straight forward. You can try the other one as well but it uses dynamic cpu voltage so that it'll scale with load. They should work fine but keep an eye on temps just incase.


----------



## coolhandluke41

*


----------



## smurfbait

reflashed it, no change still shows 110C for cpu without ever changing.


----------



## Ali Man

Hey guys, I'm also using the same motherboard (Z77x-UD5H) with a 3570K and had a question.

I'm unable to install or even find the Creative Sound Blaster MB2 suite from its own utility DVD. All I could find was a folder known as 'Dolby', which installed the dolby control center, but doesn't start up, giving an internal error.

Any help would be appreciated. Has anyone else been able to install the creative suite?


----------



## iMPLiCiT

Does anyone have any settings for the 30 nm Samsung RAM? I have 16 GB now and I can't seem to get it past 1866 (currently at 1866 @ 1.5 10-10-10-30-1T, haven't tried lower timings yet). 2000 boots but gives errors once in windows with 1.56v and 11-11-11-28-2T, and 2133 wouldn't even POST with 1.56 volts...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm also using the same motherboard (Z77x-UD5H) with a 3570K and had a question.
> I'm unable to install or even find the Creative Sound Blaster MB2 suite from its own utility DVD. All I could find was a folder known as 'Dolby', which installed the dolby control center, but doesn't start up, giving an internal error.
> Any help would be appreciated. Has anyone else been able to install the creative suite?


Yes, run the DVD autoplay so the gigabyte DVD software installer utility comes up and check the box for the MB2 installer and do it that way.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm also using the same motherboard (Z77x-UD5H) with a 3570K and had a question.
> I'm unable to install or even find the Creative Sound Blaster MB2 suite from its own utility DVD. All I could find was a folder known as 'Dolby', which installed the dolby control center, but doesn't start up, giving an internal error.
> Any help would be appreciated. Has anyone else been able to install the creative suite?


Did you install Realtek Driver? Creative SB MB2 software for UD5H is located at E:\Audio\CreativeSB (where E is the letter of cd/dvd drive). This is the one that works for me.


----------



## MaddogBG27

Well i am running the F6i BIOS and my Logitech 510 keyboard will not work in BIOS, so i don't know how the could have been fixed, also i changed the voltage and CBLK to 100.10 will see if i get any crashes.


----------



## graywulf

I'm running BIOS F6 and I loaded Sin's BIOS profiles (tried both) and they interfere with my Antec Kuhler 920. The fans stop reporting speed and won't respond with Antec's Chill Control software, and will sometimes stop spinning.

I noticed EasyTune 6 interferes with the Kuhler 920 and it's software in a similar way.

In both cases loading optimized defaults and uninstalling EasyTune 6 restores the Kuhler's functionality.

Also,
Corsair Vengeance K60 keyboard does not work in BIOS F4 or F6, I fortunately had another that did.

And thanks Sin.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Did you install Realtek Driver? Creative SB MB2 software for UD5H is located at E:\Audio\CreativeSB (where E is the letter of cd/dvd drive). This is the one that works for me.


Creative Audio driver 6.0.100.1106
http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Driver/mb_driver_audio_creative_7series.exe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddogBG27*
> 
> Well i am running the F6i BIOS and my Logitech 510 keyboard will not work in BIOS, so i don't know how the could have been fixed, also i changed the voltage and CBLK to 100.10 will see if i get any crashes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *graywulf*
> 
> Also,
> Corsair Vengeance K60 keyboard does not work in BIOS F4 or F6, I fortunately had another that did.


Well,answer has been posted in post #921.
After F6,4 (four) new BIOS's has been released.


----------



## Ali Man

Thank you guys. I found it. I don't exactly have a DVD-Rom in my new Rig, so I had to get it from a 10 year old DVD-Rom of another computer (which made the mistake of me not being able to find it in the first go).

I have another question people. I'm using this G.Skill memory sticks:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231517

The thing is that, no matter how much I loosen up the timings, I can never boot at 2400Mhz. As you people can see, these are 2133Mhz (2GB sticks), they only boot up at stock speeds and at 2200Mhz. Now I'm thinking if its a CPU limitation or if these sticks just aren't any good for overclocking?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Thank you guys. I found it. I don't exactly have a DVD-Rom in my new Rig, so I had to get it from a 10 year old DVD-Rom of another computer (which made the mistake of me not being able to find it in the first go).
> I have another question people. I'm using this G.Skill memory sticks:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231517
> The thing is that, no matter how much I loosen up the timings, I can never boot at 2400Mhz. As you people can see, these are 2133Mhz (2GB sticks), they only boot up at stock speeds and at 2200Mhz. Now I'm thinking if its a CPU limitation or if these sticks just aren't any good for overclocking?


You can try to raise DDR voltage. If you already tried that, try to raise VTT and IMC a little. Otherwise, this RAM is at its limit.


----------



## stasio

UD5H - F7b is out.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> UD5H - F7b is out.


Wait a minute-are the numbers backing up now?? I'm running F8a.........


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> My current bios version is F4 / should i get F5 or F6 ??


Unless you are having problems doing something then there is no need to flash bios. Are you having problems with F4?

Smurfbait wrote
Quote:


> reflashed it, no change still shows 110C for cpu without ever changing.


What bios did you reflash? Maybe use a later release or a beta.


----------



## MoOseimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Unless you are having problems doing something then there is no need to flash bios. Are you having problems with F4?
> Smurfbait wrote
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> reflashed it, no change still shows 110C for cpu without ever changing.
> 
> 
> 
> What bios did you reflash? Maybe use a later release or a beta.
Click to expand...

I havent been able to get a solid overclock thats why i was wondering if i should change . DBEAU said F8a was out but i dont see that on the gigabyte site under my bios download options ?


----------



## grizindabox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> I havent been able to get a solid overclock thats why i was wondering if i should change . DBEAU said F8a was out but i dont see that on the gigabyte site under my bios download options ?


Go here for the most up-to-date BIOS

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html


----------



## MoOseimus

*I'm thinking about Flashing to F6 because it Improves Sandy Bridge CPU overclocking .*


----------



## TechieGeek2012

I'm a member then! I just bought this board - it's gorgeous! Can't wait to put it in my new build


----------



## Vassorado

Hey Sin, i put your config 4.5ghz and 1600 and all run flawless, but i have a corsair vengenace 8gb 2000mhz (10-10-10-27) kit and i cant run them at 2000mhz, when i put the memory mult on 20 the system wont boot. Im runing the ud5h and a 3770k. Im with the f6 bios. Thnxs


----------



## graywulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> UD5H - F7b is out.


Thanks Stasio.

This iteration allows my Corsair keyboard to work in BIOS, as well as overclock my 3570k to 4.2 on auto voltage, with C states enabled and Turbo boost disabled (whereas the CPU clock wasn't budging before). I tried loading Sin's profile again, but the Kuhler 920 still does not like it.


----------



## Snakes

So F7b is newer than F8a? Not a very good naming system. I'm not having problems so I'm gonna stick with 8a for now.


----------



## samwiches

My UD3H freezes in BIOS a lot, usually after a crash. Does F8g help with that?


----------



## Yor_

So...why is this F7b the latest bios for UD5H, after a F7 (apparently official) and even a F8a?


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> So...why is this F7b the latest bios for UD5H, after a F7 (apparently official) and even a F8a?


Is the F7 an official release? I don't see it on their website, highest one is still F6.


----------



## MaddogBG27

So F7b is newest one or what lol i am still running F6i after i changed the vcore voltage and BLCk i have not had any freeze ups.


----------



## Sin0822

perhaps F7B was released to help fix some issue.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vassorado*
> 
> Hey Sin, i put your config 4.5ghz and 1600 and all run flawless, but i have a corsair vengenace 8gb 2000mhz (10-10-10-27) kit and i cant run them at 2000mhz, when i put the memory mult on 20 the system wont boot. Im runing the ud5h and a 3770k. Im with the f6 bios. Thnxs


You need to also load the XMP and then the 2000, and possibly add voltage to the DRAM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> My UD3H freezes in BIOS a lot, usually after a crash. Does F8g help with that?


Possibly, try flashing it, you have dual BIOS you can flick the switch.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> Is the F7 an official release? I don't see it on their website, highest one is still F6.


yes,a nd their website is outdated, try tweaktown forums, but i personally like the HWBot forums.


----------



## MoOseimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> Is the F7 an official release? I don't see it on their website, highest one is still F6.


From what I have read the F5 and F6 on the gigabyte main site are official releases and have been tested for compatibility

got this from the gigabyte bios beta page
*GIGABYTE is sharing these BIOSes for testing purposes only and are not meant for general release. If you are not familiar with beta BIOS testing, then please only flash the recommended release BIOSes that are posted on the GIGABYTE website, as only release BIOSes have passed compatibility testing.*


----------



## rgr555

F4 to F5 bios change fixed my CPU Fan speed

not sure if it was coincedence or the BIOS though


----------



## MoOseimus

*I just tried to use the F6 bios and it said it wasnt compatable with my version of windows ? lol im gonna try F5 next i quess*


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> *I just tried to use the F6 bios and it said it wasnt compatable with my version of windows ? lol im gonna try F5 next i quess*


How are you trying to flash your BIOS? You should be using Qflash from within the BIOS.


----------



## Polyspecific

I will try to get a profile up here for you guys to try later tonight (after work; 10:30ish EST). I grabbed Sin's profiles but my 3570K seems to be a bit more temperamental than most. I shaved about 10 degrees C off of the profile that had 4.5 overclock with IGFX disabled.

Hopefully my 5 hours of poking last night will save someone else that time.

And disclaimer--- Just because it works for me, doesn't mean it will work for you. This was rock stable in p95 small FFTs overnight. 75 degrees on hottest core. Package @ 79 degrees.

UD5H

All processor features enabled
45x100 @ 1.290 Extreme LLC, Fast response, Phase -(will update when I upload the profile)
PLL 1.7

Samsung Green 1600 11-11-11-30 clocked to 1866 9-9-9-24 @ 1.35


----------



## Kristof

Here is my z77x-ud3h with 4x4gb Samsung 30nm memory and i5 3570k

I dont know about you guys but I am using F8 bios.

Although i should have updated my bios first, before installing the Intel usb 3.0 drivers and the VIA usb 3.0 drivers. I read a review that someone needed the f8 bios first in order to have to the usb 3.0 working.

Anyway, I dont know if they are working correctly or not, but I cant charge my iphone 4. Ive tried everything, and I couldnt charge it on my EP45-UD3R either. I was able to charge it before, but since a long time ago the charging via computer usb magically disappeared(when i was using my Ep45). So, im thinking its either the firmware on the iphone itself or maybe it was the time when i put a new power supply in?? I cant remember.


----------



## Yor_

These crashing/freezes/other issues some people seem to be having with UD5H are starting to worry me. I hope it's just BIOS issues that can be fixed soon.


----------



## Resilga

I just upgraded my system from an ASUS M2N SLI Deluxe (w/Amd Athlon 64x2 Core2 Duo) to this Gigabyte mobo with i5 Ivybridge 3.3 ghz. Is there anything I can show you guys that would give you some idea of why this could be happening?

My SteelSeries Sensei's driver the SteelSeries Engine made it freeze within 5 mins or so. When I use a plug n play mouse I have about 30 mins to the whole night before it freezes. Last night I was able to play skyrim, LoL, watch hulu/netflix, download things... (with plug n' play mouse). Before that I was freezing every five minutes because I had the steelseries mouse plugged in so I really thought I had figured out the problem. Now I have about 30 mins before my computer freezes with my crap mouse, and upon restarting it will freeze again within 5 minutes.

So it isn't any mouse I'm using, it seems like cpu usage or ram? I don't think it's voltage because I'm running a *Nvdia 470, CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600, Core i5-3550 Ivy Bridge 3.3GHz, Z77X-UD5H, one 500gb hd,* minor peripherals, etc all on a *PCP&C 610w EPS12v PSU*... I should have plenty of power for these right?

Forgive my brevity, this post used to be very clean and refined and coherent but this is my 5th time writing it since i only now have access to a laptop (before I was trying to post from my main pc which kept freezing).

Please tell me what info I can give you in order to put an end to the freezing issue. What little knowledge I have isn't good enough to even use the great bios to my benefit. I'm pretty out of my league here but I am not giving up, this is how we learn, right?

It will also freeze in safemode if I'm doing too much in it (i.e. scanning for malware).

I have nonetheless completed a malware scan and I seem to be okay. I must also mention that this transition was from an old mobo to this new one while still keeping my hd mostly in tact. I only reformatted the windows partition. That seemed to be fine though. I've played skyrim for an entire evening without a freeze (max settings but without using the steelseries mouse).

Any help will be amazing, thanks in adv.

(Even directing me to a point where the issue has already been resolved on someone else's thread would be most apprecated!)


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> 
> Here is my z77x-ud3h with 4x4gb Samsung 30nm memory and i5 3570k
> I dont know about you guys but I am using F8 bios.
> Although i should have updated my bios first, before installing the Intel usb 3.0 drivers and the VIA usb 3.0 drivers. I read a review that someone needed the f8 bios first in order to have to the usb 3.0 working.
> Anyway, I dont know if they are working correctly or not, but I cant charge my iphone 4. Ive tried everything, and I couldnt charge it on my EP45-UD3R either. I was able to charge it before, but since a long time ago the charging via computer usb magically disappeared(when i was using my Ep45). So, im thinking its either the firmware on the iphone itself or maybe it was the time when i put a new power supply in?? I cant remember.


First of all,be sure that you have inserted (plugged) any device in USB3 ports,then you can install VIA driver or reflash BIOS.


----------



## Resilga

Additionally, I will be trying the new bios released for it. I must note that my Steelseries mouse in the 3D Bios menu would only wiggle vertically whereas my crappy plug and play mouse worked fine... I don't get what's up with that but this mouse is new so it's all highly distressing. I've reinstalled and repaired that steelseries engine garbage like 4 times...


----------



## MoOseimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> How are you trying to flash your BIOS? You should be using Qflash from within the BIOS.


*Yeah i figured that out after a min or two lol but my Q-Flash is not working only thing it will let me do is exit the Q-flash any ideas ?*


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resilga*
> 
> I just upgraded my system from an ASUS M2N SLI Deluxe (w/Amd Athlon 64x2 Core2 Duo) to this Gigabyte mobo with i5 Ivybridge 3.3 ghz. Is there anything I can show you guys that would give you some idea of why this could be happening?
> My SteelSeries Sensei's driver the SteelSeries Engine made it freeze within 5 mins or so. When I use a plug n play mouse I have about 30 mins to the whole night before it freezes. Last night I was able to play skyrim, LoL, watch hulu/netflix, download things... (with plug n' play mouse). Before that I was freezing every five minutes because I had the steelseries mouse plugged in so I really thought I had figured out the problem. Now I have about 30 mins before my computer freezes with my crap mouse, and upon restarting it will freeze again within 5 minutes.
> So it isn't any mouse I'm using, it seems like cpu usage or ram? I don't think it's voltage because I'm running a *Nvdia 470, CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600, Core i5-3550 Ivy Bridge 3.3GHz, Z77X-UD5H, one 500gb hd,* minor peripherals, etc all on a *PCP&C 610w EPS12v PSU*... I should have plenty of power for these right?
> Forgive my brevity, this post used to be very clean and refined and coherent but this is my 5th time writing it since i only now have access to a laptop (before I was trying to post from my main pc which kept freezing).
> Please tell me what info I can give you in order to put an end to the freezing issue. What little knowledge I have isn't good enough to even use the great bios to my benefit. I'm pretty out of my league here but I am not giving up, this is how we learn, right?
> It will also freeze in safemode if I'm doing too much in it (i.e. scanning for malware).
> I have nonetheless completed a malware scan and I seem to be okay. I must also mention that this transition was from an old mobo to this new one while still keeping my hd mostly in tact. I only reformatted the windows partition. That seemed to be fine though. I've played skyrim for an entire evening without a freeze (max settings but without using the steelseries mouse).
> Any help will be amazing, thanks in adv.
> (Even directing me to a point where the issue has already been resolved on someone else's thread would be most apprecated!)


set your vcore to 1.22v


----------



## Resilga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> set your vcore to 1.22v


That's a pretty big change, can you explain why going that far as opposed to Vcore at 1.1?


----------



## Greg4422

Here's what I did to get my UD5H and 3770K stable after I experienced crashing. I made all these changes to my system...but some people are only recommending #1 increasing the CPU Vcore.
(1) Raise your CPU Vcore to 1.100
(2) Increase your IMC to within .005 of your Cpu Vtt, for example IMC 1.050 and CPU Vtt to 1.055
(3) Increase your CPU/PCIe base clock from 100.00MHZ to 100.01MHZ which seems to work for me (some have reported success on 100.10 and 101)

Here's also the link to the latest beta bios http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

PS: if you haven't already, update your drivers with those from the Gigabyte website. Good luck
___________________________

All these changes are well within safe limits


----------



## Resilga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg4422*
> 
> Here's what I did to get my UD5H and 3770K stable after I experienced crashing. I made all these changes to my system...but some people are only recommending #1 increasing the CPU Vcore.
> (1) Raise your CPU Vcore to 1.100
> (2) Increase your IMC to within .005 of your Cpu Vtt, for example IMC 1.050 and CPU Vtt to 1.055
> (3) Increase your CPU/PCIe base clock from 100.00MHZ to 100.01MHZ which seems to work for me (some have reported success on 100.10 and 101)
> Here's also the link to the latest beta bios http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html
> PS: if you haven't already update your drivers with those from the Gigabyte website. Good luck
> ___________________________
> All these changes are well within safe limits


I'm looking at my Vcore settings right now and it's at 1.100v (auto) by default... was no one else's?


----------



## PMantis24

I think i'll stick with F6 for now unless I develop problems down the line.

My i5 3570K is running stable @ 4.5GHz - 1.125V in the bios. Don't wanna mess with that.


----------



## Greg4422

My default Vcore was 1.080. If Sin0822 is recommending a 1.22 I'd trust his recommendation. He's one of the resident experts around here.


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resilga*
> 
> I'm looking at my Vcore settings right now and it's at 1.100v (auto) by default... was no one else's?


I think the stock vcore on all the chips vary a bit. My vcore was set to 1.055v on auto.


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> First of all,be sure that you have inserted (plugged) any device in USB3 ports,then you can install VIA driver or reflash BIOS.


Ok. So, plug in iphone 4 and every usb device I have? Then reflash and after install the USB 3.0 drivers?

BTW, the @BIOS utility only recognizes the F7 BIOS using the U.S. server. So, I downloaded the F8 from main gigabyte website and used @BIOS to flash from the F8 file.

Here are my new temps with my stock i5 3570k after my H60 mounting mod for Z77X-UD3H/Ivy Bridge.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> *Yeah i figured that out after a min or two lol but my Q-Flash is not working only thing it will let me do is exit the Q-flash any ideas ?*


Well you need to have the new bios file on a flash drive and plugged in before you enter Qflash. Is this the case?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> I think i'll stick with F6 for now unless I develop problems down the line.
> My i5 3570K is running stable @ 4.5GHz - 1.125V in the bios. Don't wanna mess with that.


Nothing wrong with that. Sounds like things are humming along just fine for you.


----------



## Kristof

Is there a list of i5 3570k vid's to compare my chip to? Or is that old school stuff, not to worry about?

Where do I find my chip's vid?

I think there was a q6600 vid list somewhere here. I had a 1.25 v vid and that was considered average to good.


----------



## PMantis24

Just wanted to share with fellow UD5H owners on my overclock.

4.5GHz @ 1.125V on air


----------



## r0ach

For you people still freezing, try all of the following settings because I haven't frozen ever since these changes:

1) Set Win7 power plan to high performance to disable hibernate and other stuff (<----probably most important, especially with Sandy Bridge, this is the reason my SB was freezing)

2) Set power phase control in BIOS to "eXm Perf"

3) Disable all C states, power saving, turbo, execute disable bit, etc, and set processor speed and vcore manually (1.35v is lowest my SB will do 4.5ghz)

4) Set memory to 1600mhz, don't change any volts in BIOS except Vcore and ram voltage, leave all other voltage on auto.

5) Disable all stuff you aren't using like marvell controllers, Atheros LAN, 1394 controller, etc


----------



## Icyman

Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H
i5 3570
Hyper 212 Plus w/2nd 120mm fan in push/pull
1600MHz Mem. 9-9-9-24 1.5V
Auto Voltage (1.125-1.14)
4.7GHz

MicroCenter:
MOBO & CPU combo deal $299.98.
Hyper 212 Plus. $19.99 after rebate.


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icyman*
> 
> Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H
> i5 3570
> Hyper 212 Plus w/2nd 120mm fan in push/pull
> 1600MHz Mem. 9-9-9-24 1.5V
> Auto Voltage (1.125-1.14)
> 4.7GHz
> MicroCenter:
> MOBO & CPU combo deal $299.98.
> Hyper 212 Plus. $19.99 after rebate.


That's a very nice overclock









What are your temps like?


----------



## Sin0822

nice OC mate!

Yea I found that setting your VID will fix up the freezing issue. So idk what your VID is, mine was 1.22v so i set 1.22v and no issue, if its 1.1v then set 1.1v.

You can also try disabling EIST.

If it still comes up try what roach said a few posts above me.

It happens on this stupid 2500K i have, and only that CPU, so in the beginning i found that setting the VID made it go away. Turning EIST off also helps significantly, but not as much as setting your VID if you are at stock. For some reason it doesn't' occur with an OC like it does at stock, unless of course your OC is unstable.


----------



## Polyspecific

Ok I said that I was going to upload profiles, but I am on bios F6 and plan to stick there. Soo I will just give the settings for you to plug into your bios.

UD5H
-->EDIT> Everything auto except the listed
Vcore 1.290
PLL 1.7

LLC Extreme (it has been drooping to 1.284, I don't mind the droop It is consistent and can be planned for)
Phase Balanced
Response Fast

Multi 45
bclk 100.11

All CPU features enabled, including IGFX No Turbo... disable CPU turbo.

Samsung Green DDR3 1600 ---> 9-9-9-24 1.35v 1866Mhz

Ambient @ 21 Celcius no core hotter than 75.

When i put my chip on normal it goes to 1.224v, this seems ridiculously high but the chip wont boot with less than 1.22







:
I will be working on getting this disagreeable little guy to 75 or under across the cores while keeping 4.5 with dynamic vcore.... hopefully I will have good news in the next hour.


----------



## Resilga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> set your vcore to 1.22v


This worked for me. No more crashes even with my SteelSeries Sensei and games playing. Also messing with Windows power settings so nothing goes on auto hibernate and keeping the power state on performance also helps a lot.

Good info in this thread, thanks so much for posting!

edit:

I want to OC my board but I don't know the first thing about it and I can't really ask for more since all my games run at max anyway. I also have no way of knowing what Bios version I have. I'm a nub basically. I really would like to learn how to get the most out of my system though.

I can't even get through the QFlash tutorial... I don't understand it even before the first half of the first post.


----------



## iMPLiCiT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> Ok I said that I was going to upload profiles, but I am on bios F6 and plan to stick there. Soo I will just give the settings for you to plug into your bios.
> UD5H
> Vcore 1.290
> PLL 1.7
> LLC Extreme (it has been drooping to 1.284, I don't mind the droop It is consistent and can be planned for)
> Phase Balanced
> Response Fast
> Multi 45
> bclk 100.11
> All CPU features enabled, including IGFX
> Samsung Green DDR3 1600 ---> 9-9-9-24 1.35v 1866Mhz
> Ambient @ 21 Celcius no core hotter than 75.
> When i put my chip on normal it goes to 1.224v, this seems ridiculously high but the chip wont boot with less than 1.22
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> I will be working on getting this disagreeable little guy to 75 or under across the cores while keeping 4.5 with dynamic vcore.... hopefully I will have good news in the next hour.


What are all of your bios settings? I can't get my Samsung RAM to POST at 2133 with 1.56 and your timings are lower than my 1866 overclock let alone your voltage.


----------



## Snakes

I'm not sure if this question is off-topic because I don't know how XMP works. I have some G.skill Ares ram and I noticed that in the bios it has two XMP profiles. They are both for 1866MHz speed and I was wondering if anyone knows what the difference between the two would be?


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMPLiCiT*
> 
> What are all of your bios settings? I can't get my Samsung RAM to POST at 2133 with 1.56 and your timings are lower than my 1866 overclock let alone your voltage.


Just what I listed above.
bclk = 100
ram voltage = 1.35 (i typed it in)
ram speed = 1866
timings --> expert 9-9-9-24

I haven't been able to get it to boot 2133 either, not even at 1.5V and 11-11-11-30

Edit:
****Everything else is Auto*****

And when I said "haven't been able to boot", I meant it wouldn't post.


----------



## iMPLiCiT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> Just what I listed above.
> bclk = 100
> ram voltage = 1.35 (i typed it in)
> ram speed = 1866
> timings --> expert 9-9-9-24
> I haven't been able to get it to boot 2133 either, not even at 1.5V and 11-11-11-30
> Edit:
> ****Everything else is Auto*****
> And when I said "haven't been able to boot", I meant it wouldn't post.


So you don't have any of the DRAM load line calibration set, all auto?


----------



## Polyspecific

Correct, all auto

Edit 2: In all honesty, the above statement is a lie. I changed my CPU fan to 1.5/C° - PWM and turned the other fan headers off. But those two settings matter about as much to your ram issue as the price of hookers in Antarctica. CPU turbo is also disabled, I killed that before installing windows.

Edit

There is a qflash tutorial? I missed that one.

Resilga: Insert flash drive containing BIOS file. hit Delete while Gigabyte splash screen is up. Click on advanced. Then click on qflash. Select "drive". Select the flash drive from list. Select bios file on flash drive. Double check you have right file selected. Double click the file and away you go. I think that is it.... maybe click on yes afterward?


----------



## SuperKW

The new beta bios (F7b) made my cup fan louder on idle !


----------



## anti_808

Do any of the Tweaktown beta BIOS solve the "unlocked" 6950 issue? Or fix the Steelseries Sensei from only being able to move vertically? I tried to look through, but there are just too many pages.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resilga*
> 
> This worked for me. No more crashes even with my SteelSeries Sensei and games playing. Also messing with Windows power settings so nothing goes on auto hibernate and keeping the power state on performance also helps a lot.
> Good info in this thread, thanks so much for posting!
> edit:
> I want to OC my board but I don't know the first thing about it and I can't really ask for more since all my games run at max anyway. I also have no way of knowing what Bios version I have. I'm a nub basically. I really would like to learn how to get the most out of my system though.
> I can't even get through the QFlash tutorial... I don't understand it even before the first half of the first post.


OC is easy you should be able to run at 4ghz-4.2ghz with little effort. The 1.2v might be to much for you for stock clocks. You should be able to get to 4.0ghz more with 1.2v. If you want to start with a easy overclock just change your multiplier. You probably can get to 4.ghz or more without changing anything but the multiplier. Start at 37 or 38. And go up one at a time from there. If its not stable and slight amount of voltage only add small steps of voltage. But 4.0ghz will be easy even if your on auto voltage settings it should work. As for knowing what your bios version your on download CPUZ and it will show you there you need CPUZ to monitor voltages and multiplier. Don't freak out when you see your voltage change in CPUZ don't worry about it for now until you get more understanding about overclocking.

Edit : I just saw the post where he recommended 1.2v. Thats a good recommendation for a one time thing. I think he overcompensated just to be sure it would work for you but I still think you can do 4.0ghz with 1.2v-1.24v. I think for stock you could do 1.14v-1.16v. But I don't want to go against what Sin0822 said he is always right lol. But since every chip is different you have to do some test on your own. With Prime95 make sure its stable at lower voltage if you want to try lower or even when you test your OC use Prime.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti_808*
> 
> Do any of the Tweaktown beta BIOS solve the "unlocked" 6950 issue? Or fix the Steelseries Sensei from only being able to move vertically? I tried to look through, but there are just too many pages.


Try F9, just uploaded on TT.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Try F9, just uploaded on TT.


They're really cranking out these bios updates huh


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> These crashing/freezes/other issues some people seem to be having with UD5H are starting to worry me. I hope it's just BIOS issues that can be fixed soon.


I've had zero issues with my board since day one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> I think i'll stick with F6 for now unless I develop problems down the line.
> My i5 3570K is running stable @ 4.5GHz - 1.125V in the bios. Don't wanna mess with that.


Tested 4.7 last night on prime. vcor 1.35 and max core temp low 80's. testing 4.8 now. My plan is to keep going till prime errors/crashes or temps exceed 90, then reduce pll to try and get temps back down. will not go over 1.4 vcor. Curious as to whether I can get to/exceed 5. Then on to OC the memory


----------



## FarmerBob

Can someone who actually owns the GA-Z77X-UD5H confirm whether the Virtual Vsync and HyperFormance features work with a monitor connected to the DISCRETE graphics card?

The manual seems to suggest 'no', while Asus' board manuals say theirs can. It would seem odd to me if the Gigabytes cannot run in dMode, but I don't want to purchase the board only to find out they indeed do not.

Thank you!


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I've had zero issues with my board since day one.


Same here..no lockups or anything. I am extremely happy with this board and its performance.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FarmerBob*
> 
> Can someone who actually owns the GA-Z77X-UD5H confirm whether the Virtual Vsync and HyperFormance features work with a monitor connected to the DISCRETE graphics card?
> The manual seems to suggest 'no', while Asus' board manuals say theirs can. It would seem odd to me if the Gigabytes cannot run in dMode, but I don't want to purchase the board only to find out they indeed do not.
> Thank you!


I'd be happy to if I knew what they were







Could you provide me information on how to determine if these features are available and working correctly.


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FarmerBob*
> 
> Can someone who actually owns the GA-Z77X-UD5H confirm whether the Virtual Vsync and HyperFormance features work with a monitor connected to the DISCRETE graphics card?
> The manual seems to suggest 'no', while Asus' board manuals say theirs can. It would seem odd to me if the Gigabytes cannot run in dMode, but I don't want to purchase the board only to find out they indeed do not.
> Thank you!


Mine is running in D-mode. If its not then my frames in LoL went from 100ish to 260ish for no reason.


----------



## bkdg100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Actually, I am not using the incorrect slots. If I put RAM in slot 1 or slot 3 or both slot 1 and 3 the system boots fine but if I put RAM in any configuration that includes either slot 2 or 4 the north bridge will not initialize. That means RAM in slot 2 does not work, in slot 4 does not work, in 1 and 2 does not work, etc. etc. etc.


using ; f3-14900cl9q-16bxl

i get same issue , 4x 4gb ripjaws , nothing works except single channel mode in slots 1and 3 . nothing can be put in 2 or 4 slot , anyone else have a thought on this ? is bios not auto detecting and setting up dual channel ? can it be forced ?


----------



## drotaru

What exactly is the Profile VTT entry in the bios after i enable XMP profile ? is that what i should be setting my CPU VTT at ? its way lower and i have memory stability issues ( mem is not overclocked )


----------



## baldbrah

Noob here, Haven't OC'ed in a few years. Would appreciate some comments/advice

i5 3570k
Gigabyte UD3H F8 bios
G.Skill Ripsaw 12Gig Ram.
Hyper 212+ cooler (lapped) with AS MX-4

Got LLC set to "Turbo".

If I want 4.4, I'd have to bump vcore up to 1.25 and it'll drive temps up to 90c.

Notice the major difference in one of the core temps vs the other 3. Is that normal? Also, can someone look at my memory and tell me whats going on? 1 of them is running at 667 while the rest is at 800.

Am thinking of upgrading to H80 or a Noctua D14.


----------



## Rondik

Anyone else notice if you disable Full Screen Logo Show, all it shows is American Megatrends, and nothing else? no cpu / memory or any other info?

Not a big deal just curious


----------



## bkdg100

yes , i thought that strange as well .


----------



## -Ste-

done a little benchmarking just now to test it out again since my geting my overclocks stable with my Z77X-UD5H if anybody is interested

heaven










3dmark 2011










and just for fun my gpu reading when doing the benchmark










after alot of messing around i seem to have got it running as it should for me it does stabilize my fps in battlefield 3 but the witcher 2 wont even load if i have virtu install

i5 2500k @ 4.7ghz msi geforce 560ti @ 1000mhz core and 2150 memory


----------



## spena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> Just wanted to share with fellow UD5H owners on my overclock.
> 4.5GHz @ 1.125V on air


thats nice! mine is at 4.5ghz @ 1.29 :S on F8
i'll reflash to f6 and see if I can get better v on 4.5ghz


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> Noob here, Haven't OC'ed in a few years. Would appreciate some comments/advice
> i5 3570k
> Gigabyte UD3H F8 bios
> G.Skill Ripsaw 12Gig Ram.
> Hyper 212+ cooler (lapped) with AS MX-4
> Got LLC set to "Turbo".
> If I want 4.4, I'd have to bump vcore up to 1.25 and it'll drive temps up to 90c.
> Notice the major difference in one of the core temps vs the other 3. Is that normal? Also, can someone look at my memory and tell me whats going on? 1 of them is running at 667 while the rest is at 800.
> Am thinking of upgrading to H80 or a Noctua D14.


Ok I took out your pics.

Leave the vcore on normal and do something like +.090 on the dvid
The ram....What config? 2x2gb + 2x4gb? 1x8Gb + 1x 4gb? Slots 1 & 3 go together and 2 & 4 go together. you seem to just have 2 slots populated and they are shoved in beside each other?

EDIT:

I also got Dynamic Vcore running last night at the same temps as using a hard set Vcore! Woot! for voltage dropping at idle.

Vcore Normal (1.95 - 1.20 depending on how you hold your finger when you turn it on)
dvid +.090
PLL 1.65

LLC Normal (let her droop, turning up LLC spikes the voltage up too high)
Phase Balanced
Response Fast

Multi 45
bclk 100.11

All CPU features enabled, EXCEPT TURBO, including IGFX
Samsung Green DDR3 1600 ---> 9-9-9-24 1.35v 1866Mhz

Did I mention to Disable CPU Turbo for this?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resilga*
> 
> This worked for me. No more crashes even with my SteelSeries Sensei and games playing. Also messing with Windows power settings so nothing goes on auto hibernate and keeping the power state on performance also helps a lot.
> Good info in this thread, thanks so much for posting!
> edit:
> I want to OC my board but I don't know the first thing about it and I can't really ask for more since all my games run at max anyway. I also have no way of knowing what Bios version I have. I'm a nub basically. I really would like to learn how to get the most out of my system though.
> I can't even get through the QFlash tutorial... I don't understand it even before the first half of the first post.


good to hear. What CPU do you have? From what you wrote i think you have like a 3540? or something?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I'm not sure if this question is off-topic because I don't know how XMP works. I have some G.skill Ares ram and I noticed that in the bios it has two XMP profiles. They are both for 1866MHz speed and I was wondering if anyone knows what the difference between the two would be?


Just use the one meant for your memory.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> OC is easy you should be able to run at 4ghz-4.2ghz with little effort. The 1.2v might be to much for you for stock clocks. You should be able to get to 4.0ghz more with 1.2v. If you want to start with a easy overclock just change your multiplier. You probably can get to 4.ghz or more without changing anything but the multiplier. Start at 37 or 38. And go up one at a time from there. If its not stable and slight amount of voltage only add small steps of voltage. But 4.0ghz will be easy even if your on auto voltage settings it should work. As for knowing what your bios version your on download CPUZ and it will show you there you need CPUZ to monitor voltages and multiplier. Don't freak out when you see your voltage change in CPUZ don't worry about it for now until you get more understanding about overclocking.
> Edit : I just saw the post where he recommended 1.2v. Thats a good recommendation for a one time thing. I think he overcompensated just to be sure it would work for you but I still think you can do 4.0ghz with 1.2v-1.24v. I think for stock you could do 1.14v-1.16v. But I don't want to go against what Sin0822 said he is always right lol. But since every chip is different you have to do some test on your own. With Prime95 make sure its stable at lower voltage if you want to try lower or even when you test your OC use Prime.


You are right, i recommended a bit much for him, because i didn't know his stock voltage or else I would have recommended he use that. But with 1.2v he can OC pretty high, i am just worried he might not have a K series CPU. BTW don't worry about going against me, I am not always right lol.


----------



## arrow0309

Can someone plz tell me how many real pcie 3.0 lanes has the G1 Sniper 3 in a 3-way or 4way Sli?


----------



## Sin0822

16 lanes from the CPU goto the PLX8747 which provides 32x PCI-E 3.0 lanes for the GPUs.

In 3-way SLI max of 16x/8x/8x in 4-way all 4x.

http://www.plxtech.com/download/file/1824


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> Ok I took out your pics.
> Leave the vcore on normal and do something like +.090 on the dvid
> The ram....What config? 2x2gb + 2x4gb? 1x8Gb + 1x 4gb? Slots 1 & 3 go together and 2 & 4 go together. you seem to just have 2 slots populated and they are shoved in beside each other?
> EDIT:
> I also got Dynamic Vcore running last night at the same temps as using a hard set Vcore! Woot! for voltage dropping at idle.
> Vcore Normal (1.95 - 1.20 depending on how you hold your finger when you turn it on)
> dvid +.090
> PLL 1.65
> LLC Normal (let her droop, turning up LLC spikes the voltage up too high)
> Phase Balanced
> Response Fast
> Multi 45
> bclk 100.11
> All CPU features enabled, EXCEPT TURBO, including IGFX
> Samsung Green DDR3 1600 ---> 9-9-9-24 1.35v 1866Mhz
> Did I mention to Disable CPU Turbo for this?


Hey, thanks for replying.

Vcore on normal as in leaving it at "Auto"? And where do I set the DVID? Don't think I saw that option in the bios.

I have 2x4GB and 2x2GB. Slots 1 and 3 are 2GB each and slots 2 and 4 are 4GB each. Or vice versa, I don't remember.

They're all populated and windows is showing it as 12GB total.


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> Hey, thanks for replying.
> Vcore on normal as in leaving it at "Auto"? And where do I set the DVID? Don't think I saw that option in the bios.
> I have 2x4GB and 2x2GB. Slots 1 and 3 are 2GB each and slots 2 and 4 are 4GB each. Or vice versa, I don't remember.
> They're all populated and windows is showing it as 12GB total.


No, VCore on normal as in set it to "Normal" It is between Auto and the static voltage adjustments(use the + or - from auto, it will be one button press away from auto). That will enable dynamic vcore. Then set the Dynamic Vcore to +0.090 and disable the CPU turbo, under advanced CPU feature.

I have the Z77X-UD5H so mine might be different with the vcore settings, but I don't think so. Maybe someone with the UD3H can chime in to correct me if I am wrong. I wish I could afford to have all the boards to test things on, but I cannot.

It looks like you have two different speed ram kits. You'll have to set them manually if you want them to run the same. One will either have to be overclocked or underclocked, I think... You have one running at 1333 and one running at 1600. You might be able to get the 1333 running at 1600 but you will have to play with the timings.

You have two problems right now, Processor and Ram. Lets focus on one, for now, and changing the processor around might affect ram so lets get the processor ironed out.


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> No, VCore on normal as in set it to "Normal" It is between Auto and the static voltage adjustments(use the + or - from auto, it will be one button press away from auto). That will enable dynamic vcore. Then set the Dynamic Vcore to +0.090 and disable the CPU turbo, under advanced CPU feature.
> I have the Z77X-UD5H so mine might be different with the vcore settings, but I don't think so. Maybe someone with the UD3H can chime in to correct me if I am wrong. I wish I could afford to have all the boards to test things on, but I cannot.
> It looks like you have two different speed ram kits. You'll have to set them manually if you want them to run the same. One will either have to be overclocked or underclocked, I think... You have one running at 1333 and one running at 1600. You might be able to get the 1333 running at 1600 but you will have to play with the timings.
> You have two problems right now, Processor and Ram. Lets focus on one, for now, and changing the processor around might affect ram so lets get the processor ironed out.


thank you very much. I'll go and tinker with the settings later when I get home. Also got the Corsair 500R on the way so it'll help with temps a bit.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> Same here..no lockups or anything. I am extremely happy with this board and its performance.


Same here, the complaints in the thread had me concerned before purchase but the couple minor issues I've had turned out to be non-board related. I haven't messed with any bios settings though aside from my ram's XMP profile, content with the turbo boost default performance and I don't want to screw anything up. Also haven't tested ram slots 3 & 4 or anything to do with integrated graphics.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Just use the one meant for your memory.


I assumed they were both meant for my memory, isn't the XMP profile built into the RAM?


----------



## anteater

For those who have the UD5H WIFI model, can you tell me what is the frequency it operates? 5 or 2.4 GHz or both?

Thanks.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteater*
> 
> For those who have the UD5H WIFI model, can you tell me what is the frequency it operates? 5 or 2.4 GHz or both?
> Thanks.


It does both http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4135#ov.

Guys, am I the only one who is unable to use flash drive in frontal usb 2.0 panel in UEFI?


----------



## fasty

BIOS F7 Final for Z77X-UD5H now on Gigabyte web page:
"Improve system compatibility"


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> BIOS F7 Final for Z77X-UD5H now on Gigabyte web page:
> "Improve system compatibility"


Awesome! thanks for the update.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> BIOS F7 Final for Z77X-UD5H now on Gigabyte web page:
> "Improve system compatibility"


Hmm think I will stick with F6, working fine for me


----------



## char

Just built a box w/ the UD5H and having issues w/ it not reliably booting (hangs on various errors: 96, A6, AE, D4).

What's the preferred way to flash the BIOS? @BIOS, QFlash, or something else?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I assumed they were both meant for my memory, isn't the XMP profile built into the RAM?


I see how some kits have both, and I have never seen this before. Just go with the profile which matches the speed of your memory at what it is rated. i think the second profile is for failsafe possibly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *char*
> 
> Just built a box w/ the UD5H and having issues w/ it not reliably booting (hangs on various errors: 96, A6, AE, D4).
> What's the preferred way to flash the BIOS? @BIOS, QFlash, or something else?


Something is wrong with your board I believe, or perhaps you need a BIOS flash. Have you tried switching to your backup BIOS using the manual switch on the motherboard?. QFlash is the best, format your thumb drive in FAT32 and then put the BIOS ROM on there, and then go into the BIOS, go into advanced mode and press F8.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *char*
> 
> Just built a box w/ the UD5H and having issues w/ it not reliably booting (hangs on various errors: 96, A6, AE, D4).
> What's the preferred way to flash the BIOS? @BIOS, QFlash, or something else?


QFlash is much preferred for reliability. Make sure that the USB stick is FAT or FAT32 formatted and just put the BIOS file on it.
I have had some difficulty making QFlash "see" my USB stick - If you have problems try different USB sockets.

I have also used @BIOS at a push, and never had problems myself, but apparently it is more likely to brick your BIOS.


----------



## threevok

The official BIOS version F7 fixed up my Z77X-UD5H woes. I'm running BIOS default settings and all is good. Except, I notice at stock settings my I5-3570 only turbos up to 36 multiplier with 1 Prime95 worker.

When I was fooling around trying what you guys suggested disabling C3/C6 brought stability in F6 and turbo only went to 36. I suspect F7 disables C3/C6 because when I change it from Auto to Enabled the turbo goes up to 38 mult.


----------



## MoOseimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Well you need to have the new bios file on a flash drive and plugged in before you enter Qflash. Is this the case?


*No I did that and I entered the bios and tried it there and I also hit the end button to bring it up at the flash screen nothing .....*


----------



## Mandroid

I've been working on my RAM overclock on my UD5H, and I am curious what this setting does:

It is explained in the manual like this

It might as well just say that it does "stuff." I'd really like to know what this setting actually does, and if there's any performance or stability to be had from it.


----------



## PMantis24

I have a question about the dual BIOS. Lets say you brick your 1st BIOS, now you switch to your secondary. Is it possible to fix your 1st BIOS from the secondary?

Don't worry, haven't broke anything yet







although I did overclock to the point where the bios would lock up as soon as I entered it so I was forced to clear the CMOS.


----------



## Polyspecific

Here is a thread for performance enhance. Its old, but Gigabyte doesn't change often .... ahem.... uefi...ahem









http://www.overclock.net/t/543918/gigabyte-performance-enhance

Edit:
PMantis24
"I have a question about the dual BIOS. Lets say you brick your 1st BIOS, now you switch to your secondary. Is it possible to fix your 1st BIOS from the secondary?

Don't worry, haven't broke anything yet biggrin.gif although I did overclock to the point where the bios would lock up as soon as I entered it so I was forced to clear the CMOS."

No Idea, but I would hope boot and switch would work if a borked one needed to be reflashed.


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> Same here..no lockups or anything. I am extremely happy with this board and its performance.


Ditto! love the board, it's been rock solid "knock on wood." As soon as I took it out the box and felt the weight, touched the PCB and saw the components I knew it was going to be a quality product.









I've had great success with my OC as well and i'm sure the UD5H has a hand in that.


----------



## char

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Something is wrong with your board I believe, or perhaps you need a BIOS flash. Have you tried switching to your backup BIOS using the manual switch on the motherboard?. QFlash is the best, format your thumb drive in FAT32 and then put the BIOS ROM on there, and then go into the BIOS, go into advanced mode and press F8.


After resetting CMOS a couple times, it eventually booted and I got F7 on it. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to help things. I also tried the secondary BIOS, and it similarly fails to boot.

I started stripping the box back down to basics, and found that if I remove both the graphics card (Sapphire 7950) and SSD (OCZ Vertex 4), it reliably starts up and politely asks for something to boot off of.







Adding either back causes it to hang during boot again (typically w/ A6 or AE).

Appreciate any thoughts!


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> No, VCore on normal as in set it to "Normal" It is between Auto and the static voltage adjustments(use the + or - from auto, it will be one button press away from auto). That will enable dynamic vcore. Then set the Dynamic Vcore to +0.090 and disable the CPU turbo, under advanced CPU feature.
> I have the Z77X-UD5H so mine might be different with the vcore settings, but I don't think so. Maybe someone with the UD3H can chime in to correct me if I am wrong. I wish I could afford to have all the boards to test things on, but I cannot.
> It looks like you have two different speed ram kits. You'll have to set them manually if you want them to run the same. One will either have to be overclocked or underclocked, I think... You have one running at 1333 and one running at 1600. You might be able to get the 1333 running at 1600 but you will have to play with the timings.
> You have two problems right now, Processor and Ram. Lets focus on one, for now, and changing the processor around might affect ram so lets get the processor ironed out.


hi poly,

so i just set it to normal and the dvid to +.09, however, the vcore in cpuz is at 1.32, way higher than what my hsf can handle at the moment. any suggestions on how to make it lower?


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *char*
> 
> After resetting CMOS a couple times, it eventually booted and I got F7 on it. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to help things. I also tried the secondary BIOS, and it similarly fails to boot.
> I started stripping the box back down to basics, and found that if I remove both the graphics card (Sapphire 7950) and SSD (OCZ Vertex 4), it reliably starts up and politely asks for something to boot off of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding either back causes it to hang during boot again (typically w/ A6 or AE).
> Appreciate any thoughts!


Didn't get a chance to see your original issue, but while reading reviews on newegg I did remember seeing someone have an issue with their Vertex 4.

Here it is, not sure if it has anything to do with your issues
"SATA III 6Gb/s did not work with my OCZ Vertex4 SSD out of the box. Blue screen at end of Win7 Pro install every time. Moved to 3 Gb/s SATA II port and was able to install Win7, update drivers/BIOS, then move to SATA III port."


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> Here is a thread for performance enhance. Its old, but Gigabyte doesn't change often .... ahem.... uefi...ahem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/543918/gigabyte-performance-enhance


Actually that thread is not real helpful.









Or maybe this feature just isn't working, cause it doesn't do any of the things in that thread or the one linked in it.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoOseimus*
> 
> *No I did that and I entered the bios and tried it there and I also hit the end button to bring it up at the flash screen nothing .....*


Well all i can say is you need a flash drive formatted to fat32, put the bios file on in, plug it in, enter BIOS, press F8 to bring up Qflash, and navigate to the file. If that isn't working maybe try using a different USB port or even a different flash drive if you can. This process worked flawless for me so idk.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Well all i can say is you need a flash drive formatted to fat32, put the bios file on in, plug it in, enter BIOS, press F8 to bring up Qflash, and navigate to the file. If that isn't working maybe try using a different USB port or even a different flash drive if you can. This process worked flawless for me so idk.


+1


----------



## Mandroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Actually that thread is not real helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe this feature just isn't working, cause it doesn't do any of the things in that thread or the one linked in it.


I checked the timings displayed in BIOS for all three settings with timings set to auto. Every number was identical. Unless the value displayed in BIOS is not correct, I still have no idea what this setting does.


----------



## samwiches

All I want to know is why SpeedFan is reading temps wrong and not controlling fans either. Then I'm set.

edit:
X79 was just recently added.. these boards may take awhile.


----------



## SuperKW

Corsair keyboard K90 not recognize in the bios with new F7,going back to beta !


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I see how some kits have both, and I have never seen this before. Just go with the profile which matches the speed of your memory at what it is rated. i think the second profile is for failsafe possibly.


I wonder if the 2nd has different timings, I actually didn't check the timings. The speed was the same for both profiles.


----------



## FarmerBob

Thank you for the confirmation! I am leaning heavily towards this MB. I also like the PRO and Deluxe Asus boards (especially the Fan control software), but am scared by the terrible customer service I'm hearing about.

Can you comment on how good the fan control software is on the Gigabyte UD5?

To barkeater: the VirtuMVP software essentially uses your discrete GPU and the CPU's on-chip GPU together to supposedly improve on standard VSync. If you hate tearing (which I do), you'll typically turn on VSync in a game, which then limits the entire game/render pipeline to 60Hz (for a typical LCD).

VirtualVsync allows the game/render pipeline to run as fast as it can, but somehow makes sure only fully rendered frames get sent to the monitor (eliminating tearing, but allowing higher than 60fps game processing).

HyperFormance goes a step further. It lets the game run as fast as it can, but tracks rendering times and drops rendering altogether for frames the software thinks won't be rendered. So you could potentially get the game processing hundreds of frames per second of game info, while only 60fps go completely through the rendering stages and end up on the monitor.

The whole point of it all is to get input and run the game as fast as possible while only rendering what you will see every 1/60th of a second (or 1/120th if you have a 120Hz monitor). It doesn't actually render more fps, but is supposed to make the game more responsive to user input/muliplayer updates.

At any rate, I have a 27" monitor with 2560x1440 resolution and I 'have' to connect it to my discrete card. iMode is where you connect to the onboard connectors, dMode is where you connect to the discrete connectors. I needed confirmation that dMode would work with this board so I could make sure I could use the features with my monitor.

Thanks again for the info!

Can you also comment on whether the VirtuMVP makes your games feel more 'responsive' as the software is intended to do? And how good is the fan control software?


----------



## anti_808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Try F9, just uploaded on TT.


Thanks for this, it fixed my mouse not working in the UEFI, haven't checked to see if I can use the "unlocked" BIOS on my 6950 yet but if it works I'll be sure to report back!


----------



## anti_808

Unlocked 6950 still not working









Worked fine on my x58 UD3R


----------



## jopy

erm anybody can enlighten me,

new to i5 2500k and win7, which power option in window do we select if we want to oc the cpu?
notice a huge difference in idle temp when i picked between power saving and performance.

my old knowledge with q9400 is about disabling all the power saving option in bios and vista.

Thank you in advance


----------



## nimitz87

just got this board up and running yesterday on my new (and first) rig.

everything seems to be working fine, I'm on F4 bios, I have read that some people are having problems with the newer BIOS, should I update?

I have yet to attempt an OC.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FarmerBob*
> 
> Can you also comment on whether the VirtuMVP makes your games feel more 'responsive' as the software is intended to do? And how good is the fan control software?


I loaded up all the VirtuMVP crap, immediately noticed it increased my input lag, tried launching HL2 deathmatch using steam client, never saw any icon in game of whether it was working or not, saw no difference except increased input lag, then promptly uninstalled all the crap and disabled built in iGPU.

I have no idea how on earth they can claim this system is going to "increase responsiveness" and "lower input lag", when they are using MULTIPLE GPUs to frame buffer instead of a single one PLUS virtualization at the same time. There's really no way on earth it could do anything except increase input lag.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> erm anybody can enlighten me,
> new to i5 2500k and win7, which power option in window do we select if we want to oc the cpu?
> notice a huge difference in idle temp when i picked between power saving and performance.
> my old knowledge with q9400 is about disabling all the power saving option in bios and vista.
> Thank you in advance


You have to set power plan to "High perfomance" when overclocking a 2500k on the UD5h, otherwise the PC will go into hibernate and become unstable and crash shortly after resuming from hibernate. At least an until an option is added to the bios for turning off PLL Overvoltage when overclocking.


----------



## r0ach

double post


----------



## goodgr12

Is the F8a beta bios working OK for the GA-Z77X-UD5H motherboard?


----------



## scribby

Hi, new here, UD5H and 2600k on the official F7 BIOS. I'm having the triple reboot issue when trying to wake up from sleep. It only happens every few times or so, otherwise it wakes up lightning quick. I'm not overclocking, just the optimized default CPU settings and stock RAM settings on XMP "Profile 1". F7 flash solved the intermittent cold triple-boot problem for me, an issue that persisted on the F6 BIOS. I see that others have had this sleep issue when overclocking, but I'm still running on stock settings here. I put a support ticket in with Gigabyte, but I just assume it's a BIOS/Sandy Bridge kink and I'll have to wait it out. Anyone else have the same problem and/or solutions?

Great thread and forum here, you guys have helped me out a lot.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> You have to set power plan to "High perfomance" when overclocking a 2500k on the UD5h, otherwise the PC will go into hibernate and become unstable and crash shortly after resuming from hibernate. At least an until an option is added to the bios for turning off PLL Overvoltage when overclocking.


that is what I set it to high performance and then go into advanced options and set hard drive and sleep to never.

I never like my PC going to sleep, and systems to be stable so far.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> just got this board up and running yesterday on my new (and first) rig.
> everything seems to be working fine, I'm on F4 bios, I have read that some people are having problems with the newer BIOS, should I update?
> I have yet to attempt an OC.


If you arent having any problems there is no reason to update. Enjoy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodgr12*
> 
> Is the F8a beta bios working OK for the GA-Z77X-UD5H motherboard?


F8a is working just fine for me.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandroid*
> 
> I've been working on my RAM overclock on my UD5H, and I am curious what this setting does:
> 
> It is explained in the manual like this
> 
> It might as well just say that it does "stuff." I'd really like to know what this setting actually does, and if there's any performance or stability to be had from it.


^ This.

I've always wondered the same. Why have BIOS settings with random options like, normal, turbo, extreme and not explain them. I generally test and tweak until I find the right recipe of setting. But it would be nice if Gigabyte started giving more information on these setting. Same goes for BIOS updates. A more detailed change log would be very welcomed and appreciated.

I know sometimes more information isn't always good. But the setting are arbitrary if one doesn't know what they do.

Btw, Sin, you are the man. Thanks for all your help in the community.


----------



## Kyoujin

From a HardOCP review of the Z68X-UD7-B3:
Quote:


> The Performance Enhance setting configures optimization settings for the CPU's internal memory controller


How accurate that information is, I can't say.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyoujin*
> 
> From a HardOCP review of the Z68X-UD7-B3:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The Performance Enhance setting configures optimization settings for the CPU's internal memory controller
> 
> 
> 
> How accurate that information is, I can't say.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting this man. But like you said, who knows/how accurate that really is. And it still does not tell you anything. I'd love to know what's being optimized between the turbo and extreme settings.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> You have to set power plan to "High perfomance" when overclocking a 2500k on the UD5h, otherwise the PC will go into hibernate and become unstable and crash shortly after resuming from hibernate. At least an until an option is added to the bios for turning off PLL Overvoltage when overclocking.


thank you







, already removed hibernate, just gonna try a few weeks on power saver option, if its unstable will revert back to high performance.
reason being so is mainly because my 2500k is a hot chip it idle pretty hot at round 47~50degree when im using the high performance option,
and im only on 4.0ghz and using antec cooler 920 still doesn't helps to cool the chip down


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , already removed hibernate, just gonna try a few weeks on power saver option, if its unstable will revert back to high performance.
> reason being so is mainly because my 2500k is a hot chip it idle pretty hot at round 47~50degree when im using the high performance option,
> and im only on 4.0ghz and using antec cooler 920 still doesn't helps to cool the chip down


You idle at 47c? Something is very wrong. Unless your ambient room temps are extremely high, like you live somewhere on the equator (or the sun), then you should probably re-seat the heatsink. Or, you should def re-seat the cooler!

Just so you know, the load temps on my 2500k @ 4.43GHz 1.285v are around 51-53c in prime with ambient temps around 21-22c. This is not a chip-to-chip difference. Try re-seating the 920.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> You idle at 47c? Something is very wrong. Unless your ambient room temps are extremely high, like you live somewhere on the equator (or the sun), then you should probably re-seat the heatsink. Or, you should def re-seat the cooler!
> Just so you know, the load temps on my 2500k @ 4.43GHz 1.285v are around 51-53c in prime with ambient temps around 21-22c. This is not a chip-to-chip difference. Try re-seating the 920.


yea im 137 kilometres (85 mi) north of the equator lolol not trolling its the fact. im on z77x d3h btw,
my load is okie, 52~54 in prime


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodgr12*
> 
> Is the F8a beta bios working OK for the GA-Z77X-UD5H motherboard?


It is for me, been using it since 5 minutes after I installed the board. No plans to update past F8a unless some new problem crops up, been going great for a week though.


----------



## PMantis24

Did anybody notice that the bios no longer recognizes your USB flash drive when OCing?

After a fresh load of the new bios it sees my flash drive, but once I change to my OC settings it no longer recognizes it.


----------



## coolhandluke41

everything is recognized here ,i'm on F7b


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> Did anybody notice that the bios no longer recognizes your USB flash drive when OCing?
> After a fresh load of the new bios it sees my flash drive, but once I change to my OC settings it no longer recognizes it.


Same here, I reported few pages back. Although flash drives don't get recognized in frontal USB 2.0 ports only, everywhere is OK.


----------



## Sin0822

yea that is very odd. Did you perhaps flash your BIOS from those ports?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea that is very odd. Did you perhaps flash your BIOS from those ports?


Once I load optimized system defaults, they work. I can flash new bios using those ports before OC. After overlock there are not, and I have to use usb 3.0 panel that came with UD5H to flash new bios, and it always gets recognized.

EDIT: Sin, even if I just load one of your pre-oc profiles, these ports won't work in BIOS.


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Same here, I reported few pages back. Although flash drives don't get recognized in frontal USB 2.0 ports only, everywhere is OK.


Thanks for that bit of information. I didn't even think about my back ports lol.

Sin, I didn't flash from the port, I used @BIOS since I couldn't figure out why the bios couldn't see my drive before the OC vs non-OCed discovery.


----------



## Sin0822

you should always flash when you are not OCed lol. Can you try a clean flash from the BIOS. This time after the flash go back into the BIOS and load optimized defaults and reboot?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> Did anybody notice that the bios no longer recognizes your USB flash drive when OCing?
> After a fresh load of the new bios it sees my flash drive, but once I change to my OC settings it no longer recognizes it.


I always have to use my rear 2.0 ports when flashing a new bios. My front usb's 2.0/3.0 never work. Same on f5, f6, and f7.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you should always flash when you are not OCed lol. Can you try a clean flash from the BIOS. This time after the flash go back into the BIOS and load optimized defaults and reboot?


I have done that. Still after OC, those ports are unavailable. And I need to plug flash drive not only to flash bios, but as well as to make screenshots and save profiles, so... loading optimized defaults to get them working is not the option.


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I have done that. Still after OC, those ports are unavailable. And I need to plug flash drive not only to flash bios, but as well as to make screenshots and save profiles, so... loading optimized defaults to get them working is not the option.


That's the reason I was trying to use my flash drive, to take screenshots and save my profiles. Anyway, using the back ports works great. Thanks again!

Sin, thanks for the tip. Luckily nothing detrimental has occurred "knock on wood" when I flashed with @BIOS while OCed. Everything is running well, but I'll remember in the future to go back to default before flashing and i'll use QFlash next time since I know the back ports work.


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> hi poly,
> so i just set it to normal and the dvid to +.09, however, the vcore in cpuz is at 1.32, way higher than what my hsf can handle at the moment. any suggestions on how to make it lower?


Ok, if your LLC is set to "normal" then do the following. If it is not set to "normal" then set it to normal and run your tests again. Setting LLC higher with dynamic voltage seems to spike my voltage way higher than I want it to go, so i put it on "normal" which doesn't do anything but droop a bit.

try .085, .080, .075, .070, 0.65 over and over until its not too hot and doesn't bluescreen or crash. Just keep walking the dynamic voltage down while successful.

Once you get the overclock close to staying under 80 start looking at dropping your PLL voltage. I know it is not supposed to change temps, but it seems to do it be a degree or two (at load) for me.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I always have to use my rear 2.0 ports when flashing a new bios. My front usb's 2.0/3.0 never work. Same on f5, f6, and f7.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I have done that. Still after OC, those ports are unavailable. And I need to plug flash drive not only to flash bios, but as well as to make screenshots and save profiles, so... loading optimized defaults to get them working is not the option.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> That's the reason I was trying to use my flash drive, to take screenshots and save my profiles. Anyway, using the back ports works great. Thanks again!
> Sin, thanks for the tip. Luckily nothing detrimental has occurred "knock on wood" when I flashed with @BIOS while OCed. Everything is running well, but I'll remember in the future to go back to default before flashing and i'll use QFlash next time since I know the back ports work.


Flahing the BIOS is a pretty big deal, now we have dual BIOS as well as the manual switch on the UD3H and the UD5H and on the G1.Sniper 3 as well, so we don't really need to worry about the BIOS corrupting from a flash. but the truth is normal consumers freak out, so GB has made it so that when users flash they should use the physical ports which GB knows are properly powered and correctly situated. That is why you need to flash from the back ports.

However I will report that the front ports don't work at all, right?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Flahing the BIOS is a pretty big deal, now we have dual BIOS as well as the manual switch on the UD3H and the UD5H and on the G1.Sniper 3 as well, so we don't really need to worry about the BIOS corrupting from a flash. but the truth is normal consumers freak out, so GB has made it so that when users flash they should use the physical ports which GB knows are properly powered and correctly situated. That is why you need to flash from the back ports.
> However I will report that the front ports don't work at all, right?


Correct, Sin. The front ports, both 2.0 and 3.0 won't recognized a usb drive to flash the bios. Again, this is for me on all non-beta releases, f5, f6 and f7. If I plug the stick into the rear usb 2.0 port it sees the stick no problem. Front usbs = no go. I am positive of this.

Thanks again for all your work.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> However I will report that the front ports don't work at all, right?


USB 3.0 header powered by Intel works for me. I haven't checked the other two (VIA VL810) headers, but since rear powered usb 3.0 are also using VIA VL810, I think they will work.

Thanks anyway!


----------



## PMantis24

Sin, I asked this question earlier but it might have been missed.

Can you recover/restore a BIOS from the secondary? For example, if BIOS 1 is corrupt, can I switch to BIOS 2 and reflash BIOS 1? Just curious. Thanks


----------



## barkeater

I've flashed (Qflash) using my front usb 3.0 ports without issue a couple times.

However I did come across something unusual last night. After making a few changes to hardware I plugged everything back in an went into bios and could not use mouse (scratch head). never had this happen with ver 4 or 6. After multiple attempts to get into bios I assumed it became corrupted. moved internal switch to backup bios and only connected min items to the external ports (monitor, mouse, keyboard). Whew, mouse working again in bios. Powered down and plugged in the rest of my devices (i.e., printer, etc.). Powered up and went into bios. mouse not working (?). After some deep breathing I figure out that I had slightly changed the way I plugged in some of my devices; namely, I plugged two usb devices into the top usb 3.0 ports. Neither of which were the mouse but it occurred to me that that was the first time I have tried plugging something in to them. I rearranged my devices such that nothing was plugged into the two top usb 3.0 ports and everything was working again. Likely, I was wrong about my primary bios being corrupted.

I am going to test that theory out tonight by setting the switch back to primary bios and see if everything is working as it should. Will still need to trouble shoot those two top usb 3.0 ports at some point.

Tested by switching the bios back to primary and everything working great. so just have some sort of problem using the upper usb 3.0 ports in the back.


----------



## graywulf

I too have Qflashed numerous times from front ports without a problem.

On another note, has anyone had success overclocking the polling rate of any USB ports? I've tried the blue and red to no avail.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> USB 3.0 header powered by Intel works for me. I haven't checked the other two (VIA VL810) headers, but since rear powered usb 3.0 are also using VIA VL810, I think they will work.
> Thanks anyway!


I never tried the rear usb 3.0, but the front does not work for me. Tested in all non-beta releases on the UD5H. Does your 3.0 work on the front? Very weird.


----------



## mandrix

I'm using the FUSB30_1 header for my front USB 3.0 ports and it's working fine for me with Qflash.


----------



## Sin0822

yea possibly the USb 3.0 are a bit different as the specs for USB 3.0 are much more stringent.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Flahing the BIOS is a pretty big deal, now we have dual BIOS as well as the manual switch on the UD3H and the UD5H and on the G1.Sniper 3 as well, so we don't really need to worry about the BIOS corrupting from a flash. but the truth is normal consumers freak out, so GB has made it so that when users flash they should use the physical ports which GB knows are properly powered and correctly situated. *That is why you need to flash from the back ports*.
> However I will report that the front ports don't work at all, right?


I just flashed second bios which was F2 ,i had my stick in the blue port on the back and had to switch ports, Q-Flash will only show USB 2.0 so i just used front 2.0 and it worked ,i didn't see anything in manual about specific port to be used when flashing so just use the one that works
P.S the first bios chip i flashed from USB 3.0 go figure lol (i think it's predetermined by bios build you trying to flash )


----------



## Sin0822

yea i really didn't think there was a rule, perhaps it is just certain front USb ports. Like i know some cases only provide for half of the pins on the board, as you only need half of them for certain ports, like 1 port.


----------



## jopy

anyone can teach me how to flash the backup bios as well








cant find anything on the manual.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I never tried the rear usb 3.0, but the front does not work for me. Tested in all non-beta releases on the UD5H. Does your 3.0 work on the front? Very weird.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm using the FUSB30_1 header for my front USB 3.0 ports and it's working fine for me with Qflash.


Exactly, FUSB30_1 (Intel based) the one that I can confirm working. Note: flash drive have to be plugged before entering the bios for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> anyone can teach me how to flash the backup bios as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant find anything on the manual.


Just flip the bios switch on the motherboard and flash the same way as main BIOS.

Oh sorry man, didn't notice that you have d3h, do what Sin suggests on the next page.

Is it safe to have VTT at 1.3v for Ivy Bridge? My memory XMP requires 1.3v at VTT to lower my timings.


----------



## joelo

Hey guys, I don't post much but I lurk all the time. I recently bought my first Gigabyte motherboard ( z77x d3) this past week. I just finished putting this in my Haf X this afternoon. My question, and excuse if it sounds ignorant, but how do you shut off the power to the USB hubs when the computer is shut down?

I know how to do this on the Asrock Z68 boards but I can't find anything in bios.

Can someone tell me if this can be done? My mouse and wifi will keep me up all night with the LED's. lol

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelo*
> 
> Hey guys, I don't post much but I lurk all the time. I recently bought my first Gigabyte motherboard ( z77x d3) this past week. I just finished putting this in my Haf X this afternoon. My question, and excuse if it sounds ignorant, but how do you shut off the power to the USB hubs when the computer is shut down?
> 
> I know how to do this on the Asrock Z68 boards but I can't find anything in bios.
> Can someone tell me if this can be done? My mouse and wifi will keep me up all night with the LED's. lol
> Thanks in advance.


I think that only certain ports stay powered on when the system is off. You could try plugging your devices into different ports.


----------



## joelo

Thanks, I'll give that a try.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> anyone can teach me how to flash the backup bios as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant find anything on the manual.


If you have a UD3H or UD5H or G1.Sniper3 then you can flick the switch to the other BIOS and flash it. otherwise press ALT+F10 on bootup and it should eventually catch at the right moment and update your backup BIOS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelo*
> 
> Hey guys, I don't post much but I lurk all the time. I recently bought my first Gigabyte motherboard ( z77x d3) this past week. I just finished putting this in my Haf X this afternoon. My question, and excuse if it sounds ignorant, but how do you shut off the power to the USB hubs when the computer is shut down?
> 
> I know how to do this on the Asrock Z68 boards but I can't find anything in bios.
> Can someone tell me if this can be done? My mouse and wifi will keep me up all night with the LED's. lol
> Thanks in advance.


I don't think you can as some ports have extra power during their off time on purpose so that you can charge devices when the computer is off. Not all ports have this feature tho.


----------



## drBlahMan

Hey Sin0822, any idea regarding the sticker you had wanted to see*?* http://www.overclock.net/t/1247315/the-micro-atx-love-triangle-who-should-i-choose/30#post_17223534


----------



## joelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> If you have a UD3H or UD5H or G1.Sniper3 then you can flick the switch to the other BIOS and flash it. otherwise press ALT+F10 on bootup and it should eventually catch at the right moment and update your backup BIOS.
> I don't think you can as some ports have extra power during their off time on purpose so that you can charge devices when the computer is off. Not all ports have this feature tho.


-+

Thank you Sin0822! I've been reading this thread since Tuesday , when I made my purchase. I just want to thank you for all of your time and effort. It doesn't go unnoticed.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelo*
> 
> -+
> Thank you Sin0822! I've been reading this thread since Tuesday , when I made my purchase. I just want to thank you for all of your time and effort. It doesn't go unnoticed.


THanks man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Hey Sin0822, any idea regarding the sticker you had wanted to see*?* http://www.overclock.net/t/1247315/the-micro-atx-love-triangle-who-should-i-choose/30#post_17223534


What part of that is spanish? lol


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> THanks man.
> What part of that is spanish? lol


My fault...I had shown you the wrong picture. Look at the red sticker in the image below (*3 años de garantia* or _3 years warranty guaranteed_)
I had purchased this from MicroCenter in Chicago, IL.


----------



## Sin0822

Hahaha perhaps your region has a lot of Spanish speaking people


----------



## nimitz87

flashed f6 BIOS, running smoothly.

following SIN's overclocking guide and the best I can @ 4.3ghz is 1.248 vcore in CPU-Z, commanding 1.250 in BIOS.

temps are low 30's @ idle and 50-55 on prime95









about average?


----------



## Snakes

Can I get some help with this? I just took my first shot at overclocking with this board/CPU and what I changed in the BIOS was I disabled Intel Turbo Boost (was set to Auto) and then changed my CPU multiplier from 34 to 40. I thought disabling Turbo would make the CPU run at a fixed 4GHz but when I booted into Windows it was fluctuating based on load just like it was before. I ran Prime 95 and it jumped to 4GHz so the multiplier setting seems to have taken effect but is there a way to disable the multiplier fluctuation? What did disabling Turbo do if not that? It seems to run much faster at idle now than before, often going up to 3.8-4.0GHz while there is zero load which seems excessive. I'm using Core Temp 1.0 RC3 to monitor the CPU speed and temps.

I just tried something else, disabled Enhanced Intel SpeedStep (was set to Auto) while leaving Turbo disabled, the multiplier is still fluctuating in Windows and still goes to x40 under Prime95 like before. I don't understand. These two features relate to the CPU fluctuation, both are disabled, and it's still fluctuating.

Reading a little more, could it be that I have C1E and C3/C6 still set to Auto? I don't know what system halt is, so I didn't change them. It seems strange that I'd have to disable 4 different settings to get a fixed multiplier, but maybe that's normal. Any advice would be great, thanks.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> flashed f6 BIOS, running smoothly.
> following SIN's overclocking guide and the best I can @ 4.3ghz is 1.248 vcore in CPU-Z, commanding 1.250 in BIOS.
> temps are low 30's @ idle and 50-55 on prime95
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about average?


Those are decent temps, about 5C less than I'm getting with a Hyper 212 EVO heatsink. What are you using for a CPU cooler?

Sorry for double posting!


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Those are decent temps, about 5C less than I'm getting with a Hyper 212 EVO heatsink. What are you using for a CPU cooler?
> Sorry for double posting!


hyper 212+ as well.

all fans are @ 50%, curious to see what I find with the back fan blocked, and the side 120's and 5.25" drive bay 120.

I need some y-splitters though, they'll be here Tues for some testing.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Can I get some help with this? I just took my first shot at overclocking with this board/CPU and what I changed in the BIOS was I disabled Intel Turbo Boost (was set to Auto) and then changed my CPU multiplier from 34 to 40. I thought disabling Turbo would make the CPU run at a fixed 4GHz but when I booted into Windows it was fluctuating based on load just like it was before. I ran Prime 95 and it jumped to 4GHz so the multiplier setting seems to have taken effect but is there a way to disable the multiplier fluctuation? What did disabling Turbo do if not that? It seems to run much faster at idle now than before, often going up to 3.8-4.0GHz while there is zero load which seems excessive. I'm using Core Temp 1.0 RC3 to monitor the CPU speed and temps.
> I just tried something else, disabled Enhanced Intel SpeedStep (was set to Auto) while leaving Turbo disabled, the multiplier is still fluctuating in Windows and still goes to x40 under Prime95 like before. I don't understand. These two features relate to the CPU fluctuation, both are disabled, and it's still fluctuating.
> Reading a little more, could it be that I have C1E and C3/C6 still set to Auto? I don't know what system halt is, so I didn't change them. It seems strange that I'd have to disable 4 different settings to get a fixed multiplier, but maybe that's normal. Any advice would be great, thanks.


disable c1E you can disable c3/c6 I have mine enabled which @ idle does fluctuate but any load it's @ 4.3ghz it gives me almost 10 deg cooler idle temps.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> hyper 212+ as well.
> all fans are @ 50%, curious to see what I find with the back fan blocked, and the side 120's and 5.25" drive bay 120.
> I need some y-splitters though, they'll be here Tues for some testing.


I don't have a side fan, maybe that's part of the difference. I have a 200mm in the front and one in the top, and a 120mm in the back. I have it on Turbo so it's overclocking from 3.4 to 3.8GHz under load, what about you?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> disable c1E you can disable c3/c6 I have mine enabled which @ idle does fluctuate but any load it's @ 4.3ghz it gives me almost 10 deg cooler idle temps.


Thanks. I'm just trying to understand this, I would probably let it fluctuate under normal use to save temps but I want to know what exactly these 4 settings are doing, it seems like they're all doing the same thing so disabling half of em doesn't even make a difference. If disabling _only_ Turbo Boost lets me get to the 4GHz overclock while going back down when idle then I guess I would leave the other 3 settings on Auto for long term use, if that makes sense.


----------



## Polyspecific

processor sleep states.

http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-028739.htm

Basically they clock the processor down when its not busy, they save power. I call it race to 0. Work is a countdown, 0 is rest time.

I leave them all on, most of the time. Sometimes they can cause stability issues with overclock, but I have had no issues with Ivy. YMMV

Turbo is the exact opposite, it clocks the processor up to speed the trip to 0. Disable turbo when overclocking, unless you are using it as your overclock, I guess that's totally feasible but then you have to keep up with more stuff. Base multi, 1 core multi, 2 core multi, 4 core multi....ughh pain in the arse.

The sleep states allow the processor to lower the multiplier, temps and voltage when its idling. That's a good thing, the less time spent at full power the better.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I don't have a side fan, maybe that's part of the difference. I have a 200mm in the front and one in the top, and a 120mm in the back. I have it on Turbo so it's overclocking from 3.4 to 3.8GHz under load, what about you?


I don't have side fans yet either, my sides are currently off so I expect the temps to rise a touch.









Polyspecific covered the sleep states.

disable turbo


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> processor sleep states.
> http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-028739.htm
> Basically they clock the processor down when its not busy, they save power. I call it race to 0. Work is a countdown, 0 is rest time.
> I leave them all on, most of the time. Sometimes they can cause stability issues with overclock, but I have had no issues with Ivy. YMMV
> Turbo is the exact opposite, it clocks the processor up to speed the trip to 0. Disable turbo when overclocking, unless you are using it as your overclock, I guess that's totally feasible but then you have to keep up with more stuff. Base multi, 1 core multi, 2 core multi, 4 core multi....ughh pain in the arse.
> The sleep states allow the processor to lower the multiplier, temps and voltage when its idling. That's a good thing, the less time spent at full power the better.


So I should disable turbo, but leave Intel speedstep, C1E and C3/C6 on when overclocking?


----------



## mandrix

I think what is confusing to people maybe new to overclocking has more to do with what I see as the versatility of the board when it comes to overclocking. I have overclocked to x45 several different ways so far.
First one was to use only the turbos set to x45, Vcore Normal, with DVID of 0.00, LLC set to extreme and other voltage settings turned up. So basically the LLC, etc is making up the needed vcore automagically.
Another was with DVID + x.xx with x being positive voltages and using the cpu multiplier and with LLC and other settings voltage related turned down to lowest, or almost lowest settings. and so on and so on.
These boards are so much better than the old P67/Z68 Gigabyte boards it's just fun tinkering.








I've been a Gigabyte user through P67/Z68 (skipped X79) but was about to jump ship until the current crop of Z77 boards came out. Well that, and Sin's outstanding in depth reviews. I guess the devil you know is better than the devil you don't.









BTW I've yet to turn off speedstep, etc, except to check vid in Windows.


----------



## r0ach

F8a > F7 bios for UD5h

Get audio popping while gaming with F7 and Audigy 2zs PCI. System feels more responsive with F8a too.


----------



## Snakes

Well for now I guess I'll leave it at only Turbo disabled, with a 40x multiplier max which gives me 4GHz. Barely an increase over the previous 38x max but I'm concerned about temps and already have good performance in my games. When I run Prime95 my cores jump to 75C with the 40x while at 38x it was only running 65C, crazy difference. But gaming it doesn't even pass 60C even at 40x so that's acceptable.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Well for now I guess I'll leave it at only Turbo disabled, with a 40x multiplier max which gives me 4GHz. Barely an increase over the previous 38x max but I'm concerned about temps and already have good performance in my games. When I run Prime95 my cores jump to 75C with the 40x while at 38x it was only running 65C, crazy difference. But gaming it doesn't even pass 60C even at 40x so that's acceptable.


I did a 12 hour run of Prime 95 @ 45x when I still had the Noctua cooler installed and maxed out at around 85c. But I got my highest temps in the second set of fft's and it didn't last long.
Now with better cooling and lower voltage I've dropped a lot off the temps.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding about the turbo's but I don't see what difference it makes. 40x is 40x is 40x no matter how you get there. I did my first OC using the turbos 45x just for grins.


----------



## ChrisB17

I dont understand the bios naming schemes. F7 is newer then F8A?


----------



## Sin0822

yea i think they messed up the naming really quick.

hey roach why do you use that audio card? is it really better than the ALC898+Line Drivers?


----------



## Polyspecific

Hey Snakes, try to walk your voltage down if you have not done it already. Drop it .005 at a time you can probably work those temps down a bit more.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> Hey Snakes, try to walk your voltage down if you have not done it already. Drop it .005 at a time you can probably work those temps down a bit more.


I've thought about doing that. The BIOS says mine is currently at 1.155.

Installed Easytune 6 and CPU-z just to monitor and it's showing my vcore fluctuating around 1.044-1.152. I went into BIOS and changed the vcore from Auto to 1.150 but it didn't seem to have any effect, it's still fluctuating and ignoring the settings because of the energy saving functions? So confused right now.

Been doing some reading, is the set vcore in the bios just the max vcore, and fluctuation is normal? Looks like reducing my vcore does lower the average vcore in these monitoring utilities. How do you test for vcore stability, prime95?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Maybe I'm misunderstanding about the turbo's but I don't see what difference it makes. 40x is 40x is 40x no matter how you get there. I did my first OC using the turbos 45x just for grins.


I have no clue, having a hard time understanding the difference myself. Turbo, SpeedStep, the two halt states, what's the difference. I'm ready to accept that I don't understand it and just try to get the speed and temps that I feel good about, however I manage to get em.

Sorry for double posting, will try to avoid in the future.


----------



## MaddogBG27

Ok after 3 days of stable running I am happy to say that changing the Vcore voltage fixed my freeze up problem on the UD5H. So all is good now prob going to OC the 3570k to 4.0 but not sure just yet lol I don't want to have any problems especially with D3 just a few hours away lol.


----------



## homestyle

I'm trying to decide between the

D3H
UD3H
UD5H

What are the differences between the 3 besides cosmetic and ports, etc?

Can all 3 handle a good overclock to 4.6-5.0?


----------



## CircuitFreak

The red USB ports are powered on all the time just use the other ports in the back.


----------



## Resilga

Hi again, I was wondering what people here thought of EZTune 6. I know little about ocing and I used the "Auto Tune" function and with little trouble it seemed to up my speeds (have the UD5H+i5 3550) from default 3.3ghz to 4.3 and with a bclk of 104.8

Is this safe for me? 4298.2 MHz to 1223.4 MHz is what the CPU clock seems to jump between and I also can't tell which gauge I should be looking at for CPU temp... I don't have the best cooling system so I would like to keep settings modest so that I can still play games with my avg level fans. I feel like I used a fair amount of thermal paste (small pea sized amt) and I have 3 case fans +stock heatsink.

I want to be able to use EZTune because it seems like a nice program and I know about adjusting settings in small doses to check stability but is there anything I should look out for with this program?

I took SIN's suggestion of 1.22v and since it fixed my issues I'd rather stick to it than tweak that number further. Maybe I want to mess with a few other things but I just never want to get to any points of no return and brick my nice board.

My multiplier seems to be set to a max of 39 but jumps around to 14 and 20 and stuff... also I'm not sure which temp to look at but CPU FAN is at 1313 rpm? The bar is red, is that bad?

Also my cpu temp itself is at 30 (in the blue) but PCH is 68 and System is 51... are those bad? I don't know if I should trust this cpu temp monitor because I'm also running Speedfan and it says CPU 73c, GPU 76c.

I was playing Skyrim on max settings for an hour or so but I stopped an hour ago... should have cooled off by now :\


----------



## Dhalmel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> I'm trying to decide between the
> D3H
> UD3H
> UD5H
> What are the differences between the 3 besides cosmetic and ports, etc?
> Can all 3 handle a good overclock to 4.6-5.0?


U = Double copper PCB, lower temps on the Mofets PCB, better electric regulation for OC.
D = Durable Solid JP Capacitors, longer lifetime, and cooler than standard capacitors

Both UD3H and UD5H will probably be better in terms in overclocking and will have similar results on regular air overclocking save for maybe 100MHz difference in OC...but it really ultimately depends on the chip and less on the motherboard.

The UD3 has shown to be a good overclocking board, UD5 is just a bit more over a already good motherboard.


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I have no clue, having a hard time understanding the difference myself. Turbo, SpeedStep, the two halt states, what's the difference. I'm ready to accept that I don't understand it and just try to get the speed and temps that I feel good about, however I manage to get em.
> Sorry for double posting, will try to avoid in the future.


I sent you a link that explains the halt states, it was a few pages back. Turbo is opposite of halt. Put the voltage on Normal and then set an offset if you want the CPU to downvolt when idle. I already went through this with another user in posts all around yours and this has also been addressed many times over in this thread.

Mandrix was correct, 40X is 40X.... just pick a path. The only wrong path is using too much voltage.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resilga*
> 
> Hi again, I was wondering what people here thought of EZTune 6. I know little about ocing and I used the "Auto Tune" function and with little trouble it seemed to up my speeds (have the UD5H+i5 3550) from default 3.3ghz to 4.3 and with a bclk of 104.8
> Is this safe for me? 4298.2 MHz to 1223.4 MHz is what the CPU clock seems to jump between and I also can't tell which gauge I should be looking at for CPU temp... I don't have the best cooling system so I would like to keep settings modest so that I can still play games with my avg level fans. I feel like I used a fair amount of thermal paste (small pea sized amt) and I have 3 case fans +stock heatsink.
> I want to be able to use EZTune because it seems like a nice program and I know about adjusting settings in small doses to check stability but is there anything I should look out for with this program?
> I took SIN's suggestion of 1.22v and since it fixed my issues I'd rather stick to it than tweak that number further. Maybe I want to mess with a few other things but I just never want to get to any points of no return and brick my nice board.
> My multiplier seems to be set to a max of 39 but jumps around to 14 and 20 and stuff... also I'm not sure which temp to look at but CPU FAN is at 1313 rpm? The bar is red, is that bad?
> Also my cpu temp itself is at 30 (in the blue) but PCH is 68 and System is 51... are those bad? I don't know if I should trust this cpu temp monitor because I'm also running Speedfan and it says CPU 73c, GPU 76c.
> I was playing Skyrim on max settings for an hour or so but I stopped an hour ago... should have cooled off by now :\


disable C1E, EIST, and C3/C6 if you don't want the multiplier to jump. Also you can disable turbo and set the multiplier to 43x with that 1.22v you have set.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea i think they messed up the naming really quick.
> hey roach why do you use that audio card? is it really better than the ALC898+Line Drivers?


How is a hardware sound implementation going to be worse than a software codec that uses CPU power?


----------



## Sin0822

I see your point, but is it going to hurt to try it, the realtek codec isn't that bad, it has very good specs. People say it sounds pretty good. It is the ALC898 it is the top most audio codec in use on most boards today, just started to be used with X79 boards. It is much better than ALC892 which was very popular, and ALC889 which is better than ALC892, but which didn't support XF-I. Things have come a long way. Try it and see how it is, you board has amplifiers too and the decoupling isn't that bad for the audio on the UD5H. From my tests even at 24bit/96khz it is very good. The Audigy is a old card and might give hardware compatibility issues, that is why i suggest just giving the on board a chance, i mean it is a chip. Sure it will use the memory resources of the CPU, but it isn't all that bad.

BTW i also have the same sound card you have, mine died a few years ago, but i still have that front panel thingy. I wish it worked, beucase that front panel thing looks pretty sick.


----------



## Resilga

Sin is the most helpful guy on the internet I think. Thanks man, I'll definitely try your suggestions.


----------



## nimitz87

currently runnnig 2500k @ 4.1ghz vcore @ 1.215 in BIOS, getting 1.3661 VID @ load with real temp LLC set to "turbo" CPU-Z shows 1.212

idles @ 28-30, load 50.

how's this look to everyone? it's passed the custom prime95's, going to up multi and try again just wanted to see if I'm on the right track?


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I see your point, but is it going to hurt to try it, the realtek codec isn't that bad, it has very good specs. People say it sounds pretty good. It is the ALC898 it is the top most audio codec in use on most boards today, just started to be used with X79 boards. It is much better than ALC892 which was very popular, and ALC889 which is better than ALC892, but which didn't support XF-I. Things have come a long way. Try it and see how it is, you board has amplifiers too and the decoupling isn't that bad for the audio on the UD5H. From my tests even at 24bit/96khz it is very good. The Audigy is a old card and might give hardware compatibility issues, that is why i suggest just giving the on board a chance, i mean it is a chip. Sure it will use the memory resources of the CPU, but it isn't all that bad.
> BTW i also have the same sound card you have, mine died a few years ago, but i still have that front panel thingy. I wish it worked, beucase that front panel thing looks pretty sick.


Sin,

Do you think an analog gaming headset like say Corsair 1300 would work good with this board? I need to find a headset and not sure if I should go Analog or USB. I am not a huge sound guy just want to hear my games in great audio?

http://www.corsair.com/vengeance-1300-analog-gaming-headset.html

Vengeance 1300: Your sound card meets its match

If you have a high-end sound card, the Vengeance 1300 will do it justice. If your audio card has CMSS™-3D or a similar 3D audio system, you'll hear the subtle midband positional cues that you need to enjoy accurate 3D audio and play your best. Is your enemy behind you and to the left, or to the right? Are they behind a wall, or do they have you in their crosshairs? Gaming sound designers work hard to make audio sound great, and your high-end sound card and Vengeance 1300 are a great combination for making that happen.

Does the Realtek 898 have CMSS?


----------



## Sin0822

I don't think it does, you can look at it more, you have the board, install the creative XF-I suite and see if it is there, if it is then its just software emulation of the creative tech. IMO just get an analog normal headphones, IDK about Corsairs, they should be fine.

I have some sennheiser headphones they are pretty cool have bass tubes and all. http://www.sennheiserusa.com/pro-gamer-headset-usb-pc-skype-voip they are expensive tho. They aren't made for gaming, aka. they don't' have a microphone.


----------



## coolhandluke41

I have Trittons but will be getting PC 350
http://www.sennheiserusa.com/noise-cancelling-headset-computer-gamer-headset-skype-voip_502141

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012XFDWO/ref=asc_df_B0012XFDWO2014869?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B0012XFDWO&hvpos=1o1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=531496553347957962&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=

this set supposed to be good and won't brake your bank ..some of the high quality Sennheiser's are around $450


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> currently runnnig 2500k @ 4.1ghz vcore @ 1.215 in BIOS, getting 1.3661 VID @ load with real temp LLC set to "turbo" CPU-Z shows 1.212
> idles @ 28-30, load 50.
> how's this look to everyone? it's passed the custom prime95's, going to up multi and try again just wanted to see if I'm on the right track?


It looks bad. I set 1.35v in bios with LLC on "high" and get 1.36-1.39 under load with 2500k @ 4.5ghz. Yours is spiking way too high in comparison to what you have it set at. From my testing, having LLC on anything besides medium or high isn't a great idea.


----------



## Snakes

Well I've reduced my temps during Prime95 small FFTs by 10C after lowering my vcore from auto to 1.125v. I'll try to go lower tomorrow, thanks for the assistance everyone. If there's a better tool for testing vcore stability let me know, it held up for 4.5 hrs with no errors or crashing.


----------



## Chodi

This morning I turned on the computer and it had lost all the usb devices (yes, even the keyboard). This is on a z77X-D3H. Now I had just updated the bios yesterday to F8 (including the backup) and all was working normally. The computer had been turned off and booted several times since the bios upgrade without any issue. Worked normally this morning then I shut it down. Later came back and opened the computer to find that all USB devices were gone? Very strange stuff. I am on Windows 7 x64.

I unplugged each device and re-inserted the plug one at a time. Operating system found each one and loaded the driver. All is working for the moment but this is extremely strange as a random event. Other then this strange event this board has not given me any trouble. Any ideas?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> This morning I turned on the computer and it had lost all the usb devices (yes, even the keyboard). This is on a z77X-D3H. Now I had just updated the bios yesterday to F8 (including the backup) and all was working normally.


Isn't the point of the backup BIOS to have something to fall back on if you run into a problem with the newer BIOS? I plan to leave my backup alone so I can always go back to the one it shipped with in case of emergency, F4. Just the way I see it, updating both to the latest version seems like a bad idea.


----------



## Chodi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Isn't the point of the backup BIOS to have something to fall back on if you run into a problem with the newer BIOS? I plan to leave my backup alone so I can always go back to the one it shipped with in case of emergency, F4. Just the way I see it, updating both to the latest version seems like a bad idea.


Actually Sin had suggested on this forum to sync both bios so I did. I can always flash back if it is that. I am not really too worried about this it actually caused me to laugh a little. If it is the bios upgrade than it is not exactly a stable upgrade is it? I am not even ready to blame the bios upgrade but I admit that is the most likely reason. I just thought it was most unusual that this happened after several re-boots. If it happens again I will probably flash back to F7. I had not seen this reported elsewhere so maybe I am just special.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> Actually Sin had suggested on this forum to sync both bios so I did. I can always flash back if it is that. I am not really too worried about this it actually caused me to laugh a little. If it is the bios upgrade than it is not exactly a stable upgrade is it? I am not even ready to blame the bios upgrade but I admit that is the most likely reason. I just thought it was most unusual that this happened after several re-boots. If it happens again I will probably flash back to F7. I had not seen this reported elsewhere so maybe I am just special.


Hmm, maybe I'm wrong then. I can't really help with your problem, I've been using F8a solely and not had probs with my USB devices. Seems like these boards work great for some people and give others a real hassle, pretty inconsistent user experiences. Maybe they needed more testing.


----------



## iMPLiCiT

I haven't read up on the new BIOS's... I'm on F6 should I be upgrading?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMPLiCiT*
> 
> I haven't read up on the new BIOS's... I'm on F6 should I be upgrading?


I think the general rule is don't upgrade your BIOS unless you have a problem/reason to.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> It looks bad. I set 1.35v in bios with LLC on "high" and get 1.36-1.39 under load with 2500k @ 4.5ghz. Yours is spiking way too high in comparison to what you have it set at. From my testing, having LLC on anything besides medium or high isn't a great idea.


1.36-1.39 VID in real temp?

im not sure what to go by, the VID from real temp, or CPU-Z?

how can I fix this?

Chad


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I don't think it does, you can look at it more, you have the board, install the creative XF-I suite and see if it is there, if it is then its just software emulation of the creative tech. IMO just get an analog normal headphones, IDK about Corsairs, they should be fine.
> I have some sennheiser headphones they are pretty cool have bass tubes and all. http://www.sennheiserusa.com/pro-gamer-headset-usb-pc-skype-voip they are expensive tho. They aren't made for gaming, aka. they don't' have a microphone.


Yeah I did install the creative suite, I did not see anything about CMSS in their suite, but was not sure if where it would show up exactly. I am really not an audio expert or kept up with the latest technologies.

I will just go with the Corsair and try it out has to be better then what I am using now


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> It looks bad. I set 1.35v in bios with LLC on "high" and get 1.36-1.39 under load with 2500k @ 4.5ghz. Yours is spiking way too high in comparison to what you have it set at. From my testing, having LLC on anything besides medium or high isn't a great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.36-1.39 VID in real temp?
> 
> im not sure what to go by, the VID from real temp, or CPU-Z?
> 
> how can I fix this?
> 
> Chad
Click to expand...

Your setup of 4.1GHz @ 1.21 is very mild--a 400MHz increase with stock voltage.

VID and vcore different. VID is only a suggestion from the chip about what voltages it wants to use for that speed (different VID on each chip). The VID number is just basis for deciding how much lower to set vcore/offset and LLC, until you get to your highest clocks possible, where you would probably be using a vcore a bit higher than the VID.


----------



## homestyle

To you D3H owners, (non UD3H).

How high are you able to take your cpus? The board comes with 4 pin cpu power connector and I'm wondering if that is a hindrance.


----------



## eaglepowers

I'm a total noob to oc'ing and I've been avoiding doing it until now. I'm using the most current F7 bios. For starters I've tried both of Sin0822 bios profiles he posted back #805:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/800_20

My max temps at stock clock using Prime Blend Stress Test for 4 hours was 58C on core 2 using RealTemp3.70. 1st core is 6c cooler and the other two are 2c cooler. Ambient is around 22-24c.
Using Sin0822 2nd profile, DVID, I got 100c within 10 sec and I stopped the test right after.
Then I tried the 1600XMP profile and so far after 1.5 hours my max temps are 72c, which seem a little high to me?

Not knowing much I assume the DVID is better for energy savings when in idle? Which sounds nice just not sure why my temps were so high?

I guess at this point I should reduce the vcore and test it? Which Prime test is best and how long should I run it before lowering it again? Are my temps high? Everything listed in my sig is what was used.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated. BTW, board has been running great so far. My biggest problem so far is my keyboard won't let me get into my bios when I have my Eizo monitor plugged into the back usb slot.


----------



## Snakes

Under 70C would be better, but it's not gonna kill it. Right now I'm getting around 66-67 max at 4GHz, average of low to mid 60s, and I'm fine with that but I'm gonna try to reduce the vcore further tomorrow and maybe reducing the temps some more. I said on the other page that I took 10C off my temps by reduce the vcore by 0.030.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Your setup of 4.1GHz @ 1.21 is very mild--a 400MHz increase with stock voltage.
> VID and vcore different. VID is only a suggestion from the chip about what voltages it wants to use for that speed (different VID on each chip). The VID number is just basis for deciding how much lower to set vcore/offset and LLC, until you get to your highest clocks possible, where you would probably be using a vcore a bit higher than the VID.


Yea, one more thing I want to add, if you are using DVID offset, then you must understand that your VID is going to be the base "normal" vcore, and the DVID will add voltage to the VID. However with sandy bridge and ivy bridge your VID changes on its own, it isn't a fixed voltage, it is only fixed per frequency and per conditions, which is basically variable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> Yeah I did install the creative suite, I did not see anything about CMSS in their suite, but was not sure if where it would show up exactly. I am really not an audio expert or kept up with the latest technologies.
> I will just go with the Corsair and try it out has to be better then what I am using now


IMO id go for it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> To you D3H owners, (non UD3H).
> How high are you able to take your cpus? The board comes with 4 pin cpu power connector and I'm wondering if that is a hindrance.


Well take a look at my OC guide http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

And this picture towards the end:

That is almost 250W through the 4-pin connector on the Sniper M3, which is also same VRM as the D3H. And it is at 6.171ghz. I would say it wont make a difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> I'm a total noob to oc'ing and I've been avoiding doing it until now. I'm using the most current F7 bios. For starters I've tried both of Sin0822 bios profiles he posted back #805:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/800_20
> My max temps at stock clock using Prime Blend Stress Test for 4 hours was 58C on core 2 using RealTemp3.70. 1st core is 6c cooler and the other two are 2c cooler. Ambient is around 22-24c.
> Using Sin0822 2nd profile, DVID, I got 100c within 10 sec and I stopped the test right after.
> Then I tried the 1600XMP profile and so far after 1.5 hours my max temps are 72c, which seem a little high to me?
> Not knowing much I assume the DVID is better for energy savings when in idle? Which sounds nice just not sure why my temps were so high?
> I guess at this point I should reduce the vcore and test it? Which Prime test is best and how long should I run it before lowering it again? Are my temps high? Everything listed in my sig is what was used.
> Any suggestions greatly appreciated. BTW, board has been running great so far. My biggest problem so far is my keyboard won't let me get into my bios when I have my Eizo monitor plugged into the back usb slot.


See my DVID settings are set on my VID, you need to go in and change the DVID offset to a lower + value.







Can you try a different port? do you have another keyboard?


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> See my DVID settings are set on my VID, you need to go in and change the DVID offset to a lower + value.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you try a different port? do you have another keyboard?


Thanks for the input. How do I check my VID? and how how much should the combine be to start?
I've tried 3 different usb ports and none of them will let me boot. I haven't tried a different keyboard, but I'll give it a shot and report back. So far I'm ok w/ unplugging the usb going to the monitor to get into bios. Of course it would be nice if it was fixed.

Is the DVID profile trickier to mess w/ and is it just for power savings?

Also, w/ my current temps should I try to oc more or back off on the vcore or is it vid? Thanks again.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Under 70C would be better, but it's not gonna kill it. Right now I'm getting around 66-67 max at 4GHz, average of low to mid 60s, and I'm fine with that but I'm gonna try to reduce the vcore further tomorrow and maybe reducing the temps some more. I said on the other page that I took 10C off my temps by reduce the vcore by 0.030.


Yeah, I feel they're on the high side as well. I'm not exactly sure what vcore is set at w/ Sin0822 profile, I didn't even look but it's at 4.5ghz right now and I've got all my fans on low, even cpu. I bought my fancy case just to make things quieter while trying to get decent temps. Hopefully I'll be able to lower the vcore some.

I'm at 3 hours stable w/ Prime95 blend test, going to call it a night, max temps still the same.


----------



## covar

An update on the random intermittent freezing issue: Tried 8a BIOS, issue is still there at when BIOS is set to AUTO on everything.

Now on 7b and manually set BCLK to 100.1. No freeze so far after 3 days. Does seem to be a BIOS issue, hope they can track it down as it's a little annoying having to manually set BCLK after every BIOS reset...


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> Thanks for the input. How do I check my VID? and how how much should the combine be to start?
> I've tried 3 different usb ports and none of them will let me boot. I haven't tried a different keyboard, but I'll give it a shot and report back. So far I'm ok w/ unplugging the usb going to the monitor to get into bios. Of course it would be nice if it was fixed.
> Is the DVID profile trickier to mess w/ and is it just for power savings?
> Also, w/ my current temps should I try to oc more or back off on the vcore or is it vid? Thanks again.


Just start lowering the offset, two steps at a time until it isn't stable. first take it down .05v and then go in 2 steps. What a BIOS are you on?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> Yeah, I feel they're on the high side as well. I'm not exactly sure what vcore is set at w/ Sin0822 profile, I didn't even look but it's at 4.5ghz right now and I've got all my fans on low, even cpu. I bought my fancy case just to make things quieter while trying to get decent temps. Hopefully I'll be able to lower the vcore some.
> I'm at 3 hours stable w/ Prime95 blend test, going to call it a night, max temps still the same.


VCore set to 1.3v to make sure it works on all systems, it is up to the end user to lower the voltage. I can't predict if a CPU will do 4.5ghz at 1.2v lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covar*
> 
> An update on the random intermittent freezing issue: Tried 8a BIOS, issue is still there at when BIOS is set to AUTO on everything.
> Now on 7b and manually set BCLK to 100.1. No freeze so far after 3 days. Does seem to be a BIOS issue, hope they can track it down as it's a little annoying having to manually set BCLK after every BIOS reset...


Hey guys with this issue, care to tell me what SSD and OS you are using?


----------



## drotaru

I cant manage to stabilize my OC , its driving me crazy , so far iv got 4.5ghz at 1.250v ( no vdroop , extreme setting in bios ) with mem at 2133 ( factory XMP ) , how far do i have to set the VTT and IMC in order for it to be stable ? i have it at about 1.085 for VTT and 1.080 for IMC with dram voltage at 1.54 ( wich is not normal considering the mem is rated at 1.5v ...... ) with default voltages for the mem / vtt / imc ( auto ) , the computer will barely boot and reset upon entering windows , if i up thoes voltages , it starts to become stable .. prime 95 ( latest build ) blend will run for either 3h or 5 mintes .. its random ( the part that is driving me crazy .. ) I have temps at a maximum of 70C in a 25C ambient temp with a H100 .

Motherboard is the UD5H with F7 bios , i have most of the pheripherals shut off ( second LAN , marvel sata, usb 3.0 , ) .

How far can i go with the vtt and imc ? should i go further or this is not the problem ?


----------



## threevok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Just start lowering the offset, two steps at a time until it isn't stable. first take it down .05v and then go in 2 steps. What a BIOS are you on?
> VCore set to 1.3v to make sure it works on all systems, it is up to the end user to lower the voltage. I can't predict if a CPU will do 4.5ghz at 1.2v lol.
> Hey guys with this issue, care to tell me what SSD and OS you are using?


I tried all the tricks and still had shutdowns, freezes, BSODs. No OC. Was using an OCZ Agility 3. Made an image and restored it on a Samsung 830. Not a hiccup since and all F7 BIOS settings on my UD5H are default except BCLK is still at 100.10 and C1E is disabled. I'll put those back to default later but I need this machine so I can work.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Your setup of 4.1GHz @ 1.21 is very mild--a 400MHz increase with stock voltage.
> VID and vcore different. VID is only a suggestion from the chip about what voltages it wants to use for that speed (different VID on each chip). The VID number is just basis for deciding how much lower to set vcore/offset and LLC, until you get to your highest clocks possible, where you would probably be using a vcore a bit higher than the VID.


oaky so basically the VID is the "suggested" voltage and not what is actually running correct?

I want to up it but wasn't sure, reason I stopped @ 4.1ghz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Yea, one more thing I want to add, if you are using DVID offset, then you must understand that your VID is going to be the base "normal" vcore, and the DVID will add voltage to the VID. However with sandy bridge and ivy bridge your VID changes on its own, it isn't a fixed voltage, it is only fixed per frequency and per conditions, which is basically variable.
> IMO id go for it.
> Well take a look at my OC guide http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end
> And this picture towards the end:
> 
> That is almost 250W through the 4-pin connector on the Sniper M3, which is also same VRM as the D3H. And it is at 6.171ghz. I would say it wont make a difference.
> See my DVID settings are set on my VID, you need to go in and change the DVID offset to a lower + value.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you try a different port? do you have another keyboard?


Sin, where can I find your over clocking profiles people are disussing in this thread? sorry if this is a stupid question.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> Sin, where can I find your over clocking profiles people are disussing in this thread? sorry if this is a stupid question.


My post above pointed to where he started it.
Sin0822 bios profiles he posted back #805:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/800_20


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Just start lowering the offset, two steps at a time until it isn't stable. first take it down .05v and then go in 2 steps. What a BIOS are you on?


I redownloaded and I'm running the current version of F7. Unfortunately, I'm such a noob and I don't understand a lot of the terminology so I'm going to have to do my homework to figure out what # I should start w/. Like I mentioned a few postings back using your DVID setting I was getting 100c within seconds of running Prime95 so I must be pretty far off. Thanks again for your help.


----------



## craney

Hi guys

Just looking for some advice really, i bought myself a new Z77X-D3H board its the 1st board i have ever owned with so many features so bare with me

I have an i5 2500k and i have set the multi to 40, i have turned off the turbo feature but i have left all the speed step etc on auto so it downclocks at idle. I have set the LLC to normal and manually set the vcore in the bios to 1.25v. At idle using easytune and cpuz my vcore is showing 1.235 so im happy there, i ran IBT to see how much it would drop underload and it went to around 1.188-1.200 and passed 10 loops with no probs. I loaded up BF3 and played online with all settings on high and got a steady 60fps which i was happy about. I thought id try the next step to upped the multi to 42 and ran IBT again with the same results with the vcore dropping to around 1.188-1.200 again. It passed again with no issues but this time when i loaded up BF3 the game was really choppy with the fps going from 60 to 50 then down to 35 up to 50 and so on kind of crazy really.

So i was just wondering would the reason for the sudden choppy gameplay be that there was not enough voltage running through the PSU? If so would changing the LLC to a higher level (im guessing the higher the LLC the closer to the actual vcore it would be?) would that give me back smoother gameplay instead of upping the voltage itself 1st? Im thinking i dont really need to up the voltage to say 1.3v for it to droop to 1.25 underload do i? I might as well use LLC to keep the voltage closer to what i have set?

Hope someone can shed some light on this for me

Thanks again


----------



## JollyMan

Hey everyone,

I just wanted to say thanks to those that attempted to help me with my Gigabyte z77 board issues, especially Sin. I am sorry to say, though, that i have jumped the gigabyte ship and went with the Asus sabertooth. I wanted to avoid RMAing the board and getting another non working board, so i refunded it. I really liked the options the Gigabyte board offered especially the dual bios and the kick ass BIOS UI. it seems to be a good board, and I wish you all the best luck. thanks again!

Sam


----------



## nimitz87

running sin's 4.5ghz1600mhz profile haven't changed anything at all besides lowering vcore 2 intervals to 1.310

passed an hour each of prime 95 1344 and 1792

max temps 60 deg for 1344 and 69 for 1792 90% ram being used.

CPU-Z shows 1.308 @ load realtemp shows VID @ 1.3861 I still don't understand the VID display in real temp.

going to lower voltage and keep testing


----------



## Resilga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> disable C1E, EIST, and C3/C6 if you don't want the multiplier to jump. Also you can disable turbo and set the multiplier to 43x with that 1.22v you have set.


I am not familiar with C1E and could not find it to disable it, could someone please point it out to me in the BIOS? I did disable EIST, C3/C6 and Turbo but I also could not find where to set the multiplier to 43x... the only multiplier slider I could find wouldn't go anywhere near that number... so I don't think that was the same thing.

Thanks again. I will be buying new fans for my overheating problem (Speedfan constantly reporting my cpu at 73c) also. I may as well just run them on high at all times.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resilga*
> 
> I am not familiar with C1E and could not find it to disable it, could someone please point it out to me in the BIOS? I did disable EIST, C3/C6 and Turbo but I also could not find where to set the multiplier to 43x... the only multiplier slider I could find wouldn't go anywhere near that number... so I don't think that was the same thing.
> Thanks again. I will be buying new fans for my overheating problem (Speedfan constantly reporting my cpu at 73c) also. I may as well just run them on high at all times.












from SIN's review

http://sinhardware.com/index.php/reviews/motherboards/117-gigabyte/lga1155-z77/z77x-ud5h/109-z77x-ud5h-review

page or 2 back someone posted about sleep states.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resilga*
> 
> I am not familiar with C1E and could not find it to disable it, could someone please point it out to me in the BIOS? I did disable EIST, C3/C6 and Turbo but I also could not find where to set the multiplier to 43x... the only multiplier slider I could find wouldn't go anywhere near that number... so I don't think that was the same thing.
> Thanks again. I will be buying new fans for my overheating problem (Speedfan constantly reporting my cpu at 73c) also. I may as well just run them on high at all times.


C1 is usually one or two lines above C3/C6 read the description. It might say 'CPU advanced Halt'.

Edit : got beat to the punch ...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> Hi guys
> Just looking for some advice really, i bought myself a new Z77X-D3H board its the 1st board i have ever owned with so many features so bare with me
> I have an i5 2500k and i have set the multi to 40, i have turned off the turbo feature but i have left all the speed step etc on auto so it downclocks at idle. I have set the LLC to normal and manually set the vcore in the bios to 1.25v. At idle using easytune and cpuz my vcore is showing 1.235 so im happy there, i ran IBT to see how much it would drop underload and it went to around 1.188-1.200 and passed 10 loops with no probs. I loaded up BF3 and played online with all settings on high and got a steady 60fps which i was happy about. I thought id try the next step to upped the multi to 42 and ran IBT again with the same results with the vcore dropping to around 1.188-1.200 again. It passed again with no issues but this time when i loaded up BF3 the game was really choppy with the fps going from 60 to 50 then down to 35 up to 50 and so on kind of crazy really.
> So i was just wondering would the reason for the sudden choppy gameplay be that there was not enough voltage running through the PSU? If so would changing the LLC to a higher level (im guessing the higher the LLC the closer to the actual vcore it would be?) would that give me back smoother gameplay instead of upping the voltage itself 1st? Im thinking i dont really need to up the voltage to say 1.3v for it to droop to 1.25 underload do i? I might as well use LLC to keep the voltage closer to what i have set?
> Hope someone can shed some light on this for me
> Thanks again


Setting LLC higher will help with droop. In other words, under high load you might see the vcore drop. So there are several ways to go about it. You can set vcore higher, or if using DVID you can crank that up a notch or two, or you can set LLC higher. The point is to get enough voltage to the cpu if it needs it without going excessive. Just be patient and gradually increase settings until the machine is stable, no one can tell you at what point that should be.
I don't even have a ballpark number for a 2500K because I've never owned one.


----------



## homestyle

do the vrm heatsinks or the pch heatsink get hot when you are overclocked?


----------



## bkdg100

just to chime in here with idle temps i7-3770k on a ud5h , doing a slow burn in for now using easy tune 6 @ mid level #2, F7 on bios

43 x 103.33 thus 4443 mhz , fluctuates to 4944 mhz or so, *at idle* all cores average 35c w/ hyper 212+ 1 fan push , memory @1933mhz

100% load gets me max temps 75-85c across the cores , *core temp* lists vid at 1.2410 v , core voltage on *cpu id* shows 1.356 v ( just reducing to 1.30v brought average temps down to 67-72c max )

will tweak settings as burn in continues and others who are far more experienced test the waters and keep the rest of us informed .


----------



## AliceInChains

You know, I am almost ashamed to admit it, but I am actually thinking of going Gigabyte this time around. After reading how much the 7 series boards are improved over p67, and the obvious price difference (asus z77 is expensive with less features). Im really thinking of going ud5 this time around. I like the overall design, and I like some of the reviews that are out, and best of all the price. Thats a fair price for a high quality b oard.

edit: what kind of power phase setup does the ud5h have?


----------



## nimitz87

looks like 1.296 is my vcore max @ 4.5ghz stable for 4 hours so far in prime

have 1.305 in BIOS

max temps 69 deg.


----------



## samwiches

I dunno about that.. 69C under what kind of load?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Your setup of 4.1GHz @ 1.21 is very mild--a 400MHz increase with stock voltage.
> VID and vcore different. VID is only a suggestion from the chip about what voltages it wants to use for that speed (different VID on each chip). The VID number is just basis for deciding how much lower to set vcore/offset and LLC, until you get to your highest clocks possible, where you would probably be using a vcore a bit higher than the VID.
> 
> 
> 
> oaky so basically the VID is the "suggested" voltage and not what is actually running correct?
> 
> I want to up it but wasn't sure, reason I stopped @ 4.1ghz
Click to expand...

VID is not the real vcore only if you are running a fixed voltage. If you set your vcore using offset/DVID then the vcore will adjust itself based on your clock speed, plus or minus your offset.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> I dunno about that.. 69C under what kind of load?
> VID is not the real vcore only if you are running a fixed voltage. If you set your vcore using offset/DVID then the vcore will adjust itself based on your clock speed, plus or minus your offset.


100% load in prime95 custom FTT of 1792 I'll get a screen shot in a sec.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AliceInChains*
> 
> You know, I am almost ashamed to admit it, but I am actually thinking of going Gigabyte this time around. After reading how much the 7 series boards are improved over p67, and the obvious price difference (asus z77 is expensive with less features). Im really thinking of going ud5 this time around. I like the overall design, and I like some of the reviews that are out, and best of all the price. Thats a fair price for a high quality b oard.
> edit: what kind of power phase setup does the ud5h have?


http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#ov

http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#ov


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> I dunno about that.. 69C under what kind of load?
> VID is not the real vcore only if you are running a fixed voltage. If you set your vcore using offset/DVID then the vcore will adjust itself based on your clock speed, plus or minus your offset.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> 100% load in prime95 custom FTT of 1792 I'll get a screen shot in a sec.


here you go max was 68* in that run. it's also 23-24* ambient.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> I dunno about that.. 69C under what kind of load?
> VID is not the real vcore only if you are running a fixed voltage. If you set your vcore using offset/DVID then the vcore will adjust itself based on your clock speed, plus or minus your offset.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> 100% load in prime95 custom FTT of 1792 I'll get a screen shot in a sec.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> here you go max was 68* in that run. it's also 23-24* ambient.
Click to expand...

Those aren't full load temps. You need to let Prime go through the 8K tests at least, but more like an hour to get a good reading of peak core temps. Use version 26.6 at least, and have a try with 27.7 (Prime w/ AVX).

Cause I'm seeing 80C with lower vcore (and probably better cooling), and I've got the same ambient here in my place (22C / 73F):


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Those aren't full load temps. You need to let Prime go through the 8K tests at least, but more like an hour to get a good reading of peak core temps. Use version 26.6 at least, and have a try with 27.7 (Prime w/ AVX).
> Cause I'm seeing 80C with lower vcore (and probably better cooling), and I've got the same ambient here in my place (22C / 73F):


letting it run right now over night I'll update in the morning


----------



## Snakes

Shoot, I reported on my vcore and temps reduction last night but it turns out the bios hadn't taken my input of 1.125v, I was actually running at 1.135. I've since learned that I get a BSOD with a vcore of 1.125 and lower, seems stable at 1.130 (this is at 4GHz) with decent temps under Prime95, I think I'll continue with these settings. I ran prime95 tonight with small FFTs successfully for 4 hours, it's not the most thorough stress test but things are looking stable.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> do the vrm heatsinks or the pch heatsink get hot when you are overclocked?


No not really


----------



## grizindabox

RMA's suck


----------



## mortikaye

I've not even attempted much in the way of overclocking because my GA-Z77x-UD5H with a I7-3770K refuses to function properly.

I'm getting the random freezes issue. I can be browsing the web after 5 minutes of logging on and my pc will lock up, or half an hour into a game in both instances forcing me to power off the unresponsive PC.

Everything is set to auto in the bios and I've tried F4(came with board), F5, F6, F7 and am currently on F8a but still have the same problems.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I wait for another bios revision or RMA the board?


----------



## eaglepowers

Sinn0822- When I use your DVID profile my normal is 1.27v in bios and when I set the DVID to +0, CPU-Z reads my core voltage as high as 1.392v under load. Is there anything I can do to reduce this? I'm at 4.5ghz.
If I use the 1600 profile you loaded it seems stable at 1.32v at 4.5ghz but I'd like to take advantage of the energy savings from the DVID profile. Thanks.


----------



## Sin0822

If you set auto what happens? IMO just set manual vcore, and then turn on power savings, voltage wont drop under load, but its only a few W difference less than 5W-10W if voltage drops under idle or it stays the same. Issues might be two things, #1 your CPU is asking for more VID as your OC is ticking off SVID protocols, which can provide upto 1.52v without your premission(thanks to Intel). Or #2 you need to do an OC from the ground up after loading optimized defaults. Please just copy my settings to paper, and put them in again, but this time start from fresh.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> Sinn0822- When I use your DVID profile my normal is 1.27v in bios and when I set the DVID to +0, CPU-Z reads my core voltage as high as 1.392v under load. Is there anything I can do to reduce this? I'm at 4.5ghz.
> If I use the 1600 profile you loaded it seems stable at 1.32v at 4.5ghz but I'd like to take advantage of the energy savings from the DVID profile. Thanks.


Depending on how you set up Vcore response, LLC, phase etc you can set DVID to 0.00 and still see a fairly high voltage. I actually did my first 4.5 OC using 0.00 DVID and adjusting via the other settings 'cause I was curious about checking out all the boards (and Intels!) functions. I think I ended up with a max Vcore of 1.292 with droop 1.284 under load testing.
But if you use DVID with positve numbers and balance WITH the other settings you can bring your vcore lower. All cpu's are different, but currently my max vcore is 1.284 under load, which seems to be the best I can get.
There's just several ways to go about OC'ing with this board and depending on what your cpu likes.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mortikaye*
> 
> I've not even attempted much in the way of overclocking because my GA-Z77x-UD5H with a I7-3770K refuses to function properly.
> I'm getting the random freezes issue. I can be browsing the web after 5 minutes of logging on and my pc will lock up, or half an hour into a game in both instances forcing me to power off the unresponsive PC.
> Everything is set to auto in the bios and I've tried F4(came with board), F5, F6, F7 and am currently on F8a but still have the same problems.
> Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I wait for another bios revision or RMA the board?


Some on this forum have had luck with manually setting their bclk to 100, 100.1, or 100.01. Do a search on freezes and you should find a few suggestions to try.


----------



## HSG502

Hey guys, I got my UD3H a while ago now but haven't had time to build yet.

I just thought I'd ask what drivers from the website or from the driver disk I need to install to get up an running well. (I'm mainly concerned about the chipset and sata drivers as I haven't dealt with SSDs before and this will be my first build with one).

Is the driver disk that came with the board enough to get me started or should I just download and install all the drivers from the Gigabyte website?

Cheers for any help you guys can provide.


----------



## grizindabox

Looking for some advice. My UD5H would not POST with RAM in either slot 2 or 4 so I RMA'd the board. Turns out that a couple pins are bent in the cpu socket so New Egg declined my RMA. I know that the damage was not caused by myself, and due to this I have been without my computer for weeks. What are the odds that Gigabyte will repair or replace my board? Is there a good way to possibly bend the pins back myself? I believe someone else had the same issue.


----------



## nimitz87

failed little after 2 hours in prime blend...how to fix? only way to up the vcore?

Sin's profile 4..5ghz 1600 XMP 1.305 in BIOS 1.296 in cpu-z

[Mon May 14 23:31:29 2012]
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
[Mon May 14 23:46:48 2012]
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
[Tue May 15 00:02:09 2012]
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
[Tue May 15 00:17:26 2012]
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
[Tue May 15 00:32:48 2012]
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
[Tue May 15 00:48:07 2012]
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
[Tue May 15 01:03:40 2012]
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
Self-test 14K passed!
[Tue May 15 01:19:16 2012]
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
[Tue May 15 01:34:27 2012]
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
[Tue May 15 01:48:41 2012]
FATAL ERROR: Resulting sum was 5072717182245.875, expected: 5072717203256.996
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
[Tue May 15 02:05:19 2012]
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
[Tue May 15 02:20:43 2012]
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!

thanks

chad


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> failed little after 2 hours in prime blend...how to fix? only way to up the vcore?
> Sin's profile 4..5ghz 1600 XMP 1.305 in BIOS 1.296 in cpu-z
> [Mon May 14 23:31:29 2012]
> Self-test 1024K passed!
> Self-test 1024K passed!
> Self-test 1024K passed!
> Self-test 1024K passed!
> [Mon May 14 23:46:48 2012]
> Self-test 8K passed!
> Self-test 8K passed!
> Self-test 8K passed!
> Self-test 8K passed!
> [Tue May 15 00:02:09 2012]
> Self-test 10K passed!
> Self-test 10K passed!
> Self-test 10K passed!
> Self-test 10K passed!
> [Tue May 15 00:17:26 2012]
> Self-test 896K passed!
> Self-test 896K passed!
> Self-test 896K passed!
> Self-test 896K passed!
> [Tue May 15 00:32:48 2012]
> Self-test 768K passed!
> Self-test 768K passed!
> Self-test 768K passed!
> Self-test 768K passed!
> [Tue May 15 00:48:07 2012]
> Self-test 12K passed!
> Self-test 12K passed!
> Self-test 12K passed!
> Self-test 12K passed!
> [Tue May 15 01:03:40 2012]
> Self-test 14K passed!
> Self-test 14K passed!
> Self-test 14K passed!
> Self-test 14K passed!
> [Tue May 15 01:19:16 2012]
> Self-test 640K passed!
> Self-test 640K passed!
> Self-test 640K passed!
> Self-test 640K passed!
> [Tue May 15 01:34:27 2012]
> Self-test 512K passed!
> Self-test 512K passed!
> Self-test 512K passed!
> Self-test 512K passed!
> [Tue May 15 01:48:41 2012]
> FATAL ERROR: Resulting sum was 5072717182245.875, expected: 5072717203256.996
> Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
> Self-test 16K passed!
> Self-test 16K passed!
> Self-test 16K passed!
> [Tue May 15 02:05:19 2012]
> Self-test 20K passed!
> Self-test 20K passed!
> Self-test 20K passed!
> [Tue May 15 02:20:43 2012]
> Self-test 448K passed!
> Self-test 448K passed!
> Self-test 448K passed!
> thanks
> chad


lower CPU PLL see if it helps, try set LLC to extreme.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Looking for some advice. My UD5H would not POST with RAM in either slot 2 or 4 so I RMA'd the board. Turns out that a couple pins are bent in the cpu socket so New Egg declined my RMA. I know that the damage was not caused by myself, and due to this I have been without my computer for weeks. What are the odds that Gigabyte will repair or replace my board? Is there a good way to possibly bend the pins back myself? I believe someone else had the same issue.


GB will repair it for a cost for sure. IMO call GB up and tell them what happened. Also you can bend back pins, some people use a mechanical pencil's tip.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> lower CPU PLL see if it helps, try set LLC to extreme.
> GB will repair it for a cost for sure. IMO call GB up and tell them what happened. Also you can bend back pins, some people use a mechanical pencil's tip.


alright, any suggestions for PLL or just play with it?


----------



## Sin0822

play with it, but try LLC first, also what are your temps?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Looking for some advice. My UD5H would not POST with RAM in either slot 2 or 4 so I RMA'd the board. Turns out that a couple pins are bent in the cpu socket so New Egg declined my RMA. I know that the damage was not caused by myself, and due to this I have been without my computer for weeks. What are the odds that Gigabyte will repair or replace my board? Is there a good way to possibly bend the pins back myself? I believe someone else had the same issue.


Yeah, I got a board with bent cpu socket pins. Newegg wouldn't RMA it, either. I sent it off to Gigabyte so I guess I'll find out what it's going to cost me. If I can't sell it I guess I'll have 2 UD5H boards.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> play with it, but try LLC first, also what are your temps?


before it crashed max temps were 69 deg. LLC is at 2nd from highest iirc I never touched it from your profile, is there no risk in going highest LLC?


----------



## eaglepowers

Now I'm getting "Power Surge On Hub Port" A USB device has exceeded the power limits of the hub port.....
I noticed this after I attempted to lower my DVID to -.05 and it wouldn't boot, so I reset my cmos.
Everything else is running fine. I did Prime95 last night for 7 hours straight.

I only have a mice and keyboard plugged into my usb, same as always. I've unplugged all other usb devices and I'm still getting this message.

I've tried loading defaults, reflashed my bios to F7 again, loaded defaults again and I'm still getting it? Did I break something in my OC attempts?


----------



## eaglepowers

Sin0822, I tried running in Auto and my cpu-z core voltage was the same as normal and dvid +.0, however, I noticed lower temps but that's probably because it's cooler in the room?

Mandrix, thanks for the advice, unfortunately, I just don't really understand the relationship w/ all the settings well enough to tinker. Like Sin0822 said, if I really want to achieve more I need to start from scratch and experiment. I wish it wasn't so time consuming.


----------



## choikugi

Now I'm getting "Power Surge On Hub Port" A USB device has exceeded the power limits of the hub port.....
I noticed this after I attempted to lower my DVID to -.05 and it wouldn't boot, so I reset my cmos.
Everything else is running fine. I did Prime95 last night for 7 hours straight.

I only have a mice and keyboard plugged into my usb, same as always. I've unplugged all other usb devices and I'm still getting this message.

I've tried loading defaults, reflashed my bios to F7 again, loaded defaults again and I'm still getting it? Did I break something in my OC attempts?

=================================

Hi.

If you are using VMWARE, it might be cause. You need to check option for USB


----------



## grizindabox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yeah, I got a board with bent cpu socket pins. Newegg wouldn't RMA it, either. I sent it off to Gigabyte so I guess I'll find out what it's going to cost me. If I can't sell it I guess I'll have 2 UD5H boards.


Keep me updated on what happens.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> Sin0822, I tried running in Auto and my cpu-z core voltage was the same as normal and dvid +.0, however, I noticed lower temps but that's probably because it's cooler in the room?
> Mandrix, thanks for the advice, unfortunately, I just don't really understand the relationship w/ all the settings well enough to tinker. Like Sin0822 said, if I really want to achieve more I need to start from scratch and experiment. I wish it wasn't so time consuming.


You should start from scratch and get a working knowledge of overclocking. What's the rush?

I don't think that power surge message is related to your overclock. I had that early on, and had it again about a week ago so it spans several BIOS updates. Not sure what I did if anything about it but haven't had it in a while. Funny thing is, I didn't have anything plugged into those hubs/ports so it's kinda crazy.
I had that on my Z68XP-UD3 mobo once as well.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You should start from scratch and get a working knowledge of overclocking. What's the rush?
> I don't think that power surge message is related to your overclock. I had that early on, and had it again about a week ago so it spans several BIOS updates. Not sure what I did if anything about it but haven't had it in a while. Funny thing is, I didn't have anything plugged into those hubs/ports so it's kinda crazy.
> I had that on my Z68XP-UD3 mobo once as well.


Thanks for the advice. I tried to read through Sin's Sandy Bridge OC guide and kindof understand it but all these turbo, extreme....etc settings just leave me clueless? I just don't have as much time as I'd like to play w/ things especially this being my work pc, but you're right I shouldn't rush things and this is part of the fun.

The power surge is coming up all the time and is really annoying. It doesn't go more than a min before it pops up. I've tried reinstalling my usb drivers, different keyboard, unplugging my case usb but so far nothing. I'm wondering if my OS is corrupt?


----------



## Polyspecific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Shoot, I reported on my vcore and temps reduction last night but it turns out the bios hadn't taken my input of 1.125v, I was actually running at 1.135. I've since learned that I get a BSOD with a vcore of 1.125 and lower, seems stable at 1.130 (this is at 4GHz) with decent temps under Prime95, I think I'll continue with these settings. I ran prime95 tonight with small FFTs successfully for 4 hours, it's not the most thorough stress test but things are looking stable.


Hey man, I forgot your board and CPU so I will check and edit in a sec. just making this so I don't forget to make the post.....again.

EDIT:
OK, you are on the same board with the same chip I have. I have a 100% stable 4.5 overclock that you can load. I have all processor states enabled and turbo off. If you want to just install a profile let me know and I will be more than happy to figure out how to drag it out of my bios for you. I'm sure there is a write-up somewhere around here, and if one doesn't exist I can write it after I figure it out. If they're going to give us loadable profiles we might as well use them.

The profile is using "Normal" for the Vcore setting so I cannot tell you exactly what your vcore will be, your chip will determine that on the fly.


----------



## nimitz87

what are the downsides to having LLC on the highest setting?

Chad


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> Hey man, I forgot your board and CPU so I will check and edit in a sec. just making this so I don't forget to make the post.....again.
> EDIT:
> OK, you are on the same board with the same chip I have. I have a 100% stable 4.5 overclock that you can load. I have all processor states enabled and turbo off. If you want to just install a profile let me know and I will be more than happy to figure out how to drag it out of my bios for you. I'm sure there is a write-up somewhere around here, and if one doesn't exist I can write it after I figure it out. If they're going to give us loadable profiles we might as well use them.
> The profile is using "Normal" for the Vcore setting so I cannot tell you exactly what your vcore will be, your chip will determine that on the fly.


I think you can save your profile to a usb drive. I made the mistake of saving them in the bios and after I flashed my bios they were gone. Not a big deal but I plan on saving to a usb drive as well in the future.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polyspecific*
> 
> Hey man, I forgot your board and CPU so I will check and edit in a sec. just making this so I don't forget to make the post.....again.
> EDIT:
> OK, you are on the same board with the same chip I have. I have a 100% stable 4.5 overclock that you can load. I have all processor states enabled and turbo off. If you want to just install a profile let me know and I will be more than happy to figure out how to drag it out of my bios for you. I'm sure there is a write-up somewhere around here, and if one doesn't exist I can write it after I figure it out. If they're going to give us loadable profiles we might as well use them.
> The profile is using "Normal" for the Vcore setting so I cannot tell you exactly what your vcore will be, your chip will determine that on the fly.


That's an appealing offer but I'm kinda concerned about overclocking that high. I don't think my CPU cooler could handle those temps in a way I'd be comfortable with. When I was using the default bios settings with a 3.8GHz max it was already going up to 75C under prime95. I've now gotten it to 4GHz at 65C by lowering vcore, I expect 4.5 would require a significant vcore boost and therefore a temp increase. I feel like playing it safe for now.


----------



## nimitz87

I loaded sin's profile you need to unzip the RAR and get the root file onto the usb.

back on page 805 for details.

Chad


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choikugi*
> 
> Now I'm getting "Power Surge On Hub Port" A USB device has exceeded the power limits of the hub port.....
> I noticed this after I attempted to lower my DVID to -.05 and it wouldn't boot, so I reset my cmos.
> Everything else is running fine. I did Prime95 last night for 7 hours straight.
> I only have a mice and keyboard plugged into my usb, same as always. I've unplugged all other usb devices and I'm still getting this message.
> I've tried loading defaults, reflashed my bios to F7 again, loaded defaults again and I'm still getting it? Did I break something in my OC attempts?
> =================================
> Hi.
> If you are using VMWARE, it might be cause. You need to check option for USB


Thanks for the help. I don't know what vmware is? Is it in the bios?


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *choikugi*
> 
> Now I'm getting "Power Surge On Hub Port" A USB device has exceeded the power limits of the hub port.....
> I noticed this after I attempted to lower my DVID to -.05 and it wouldn't boot, so I reset my cmos.
> Everything else is running fine. I did Prime95 last night for 7 hours straight.
> I only have a mice and keyboard plugged into my usb, same as always. I've unplugged all other usb devices and I'm still getting this message.
> I've tried loading defaults, reflashed my bios to F7 again, loaded defaults again and I'm still getting it? Did I break something in my OC attempts?
> =================================
> Hi.
> If you are using VMWARE, it might be cause. You need to check option for USB
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help. I don't know what vmware is? Is it in the bios?
Click to expand...

You are not using VMWare...


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> You are not using VMWare...


Yeah, that's what I assumed. It's driving me nuts. I'm going to try and go with an earlier bios to see if it goes away? I wonder if my board is defective?


----------



## indecisive29

Hello all, first post!

I am currently building my first box mainly for gaming and was having trouble picking out a motherboard. I am going to use this computer mostly for gaming. I already purchased a Gigabyte gtx 670, kingston hyperdrivex 120gb, WD 1TB drive, and an i7 3770. I was looking into this board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128552 but it seems it was just recently posted on newegg and I haven't been able to find any legit reviews. Does anyone know any benchmark comparisons with the current z77 boards? I want to make sure I am getting a solid board, and price is not much of an issue.

Thanks for the help!

EDIT - Seems my original link is not working:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128552


----------



## Sin0822

I have one, what do you want to know?


----------



## bkdg100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> That's an appealing offer but I'm kinda concerned about overclocking that high. I don't think my CPU cooler could handle those temps in a way I'd be comfortable with. When I was using the default bios settings with a 3.8GHz max it was already going up to 75C under prime95. I've now gotten it to 4GHz at 65C by lowering vcore, I expect 4.5 would require a significant vcore boost and therefore a temp increase. I feel like playing it safe for now.


snakes you feel confident your cooler is seated well ? what thermal paste did you use ? temps should lower after a few days bake on ... a ways back you said your idle temps were high , did you cross check that with a couple of proggies while watching fan speeds ? i am just hanging out at 4.4ghz and never break 50c under normal use and i have the 212+ cooler .

you can use GTL . to *tweak* the volts while in widows and watch your temps when you apply settings . you know can get enthusiasts insurance from intel for 20 bucks and play to your hearts desire ...


----------



## bkdg100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indecisive29*
> 
> Hello all, first post!
> I am currently building my first box mainly for gaming and was having trouble picking out a motherboard. I am going to use this computer mostly for gaming. I already purchased a Gigabyte gtx 670, kingston hyperdrivex 120gb, WD 1TB drive, and an i7 3770. I was looking into this board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128552 but it seems it was just recently posted on newegg and I haven't been able to find any legit reviews. Does anyone know any benchmark comparisons with the current z77 boards? I want to make sure I am getting a solid board, and price is not much of an issue.
> Thanks for the help!
> EDIT - Seems my original link is not working:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128552


you can find reviews all over . from linux to mac heads and everything between . i wouldn't post links for reviews to other sites as that would be unethical _in my opinion_ ,. but , you are already at the center of the gigabyte world and "THE MAN" ( Sin0822 ) just asked you a question .....


----------



## indecisive29

I wanted to look at benchmark comparisons between the the sniper 3 and the other top z77 gaming boards. At first I was waiting for the M5F but it seems it has gotten delayed and I do not want to wait. I guess I am a little bit of a noob and just looking for a solid gaming board. Checking into the reliability I suppose is the biggest concern of mine, and how one gpu would perform on the board (specifically, if possible, the gigabyte gtx 670).


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I assumed. It's driving me nuts. I'm going to try and go with an earlier bios to see if it goes away? I wonder if my board is defective?


I had the exact same issue. Make sure the USB 3.0 drivers are the newest via Intel along with the Chipset and Intel Management software via Intel website. This took care of the issue for me.


----------



## bkdg100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indecisive29*
> 
> I wanted to look at benchmark comparisons between the the sniper 3 and the other top z77 gaming boards. At first I was waiting for the M5F but it seems it has gotten delayed and I do not want to wait. I guess I am a little bit of a noob and just looking for a solid gaming board. Checking into the reliability I suppose is the biggest concern of mine, and how one gpu would perform on the board (specifically, if possible, the gigabyte gtx 670).


if you want to spend for the G1.Sniper 3 , by all means that is a gamers board . best GB has too offer . now you should just decide between that and the asus 300+ bucks boards and you are all set .

btw . why did you get a non K ver of the cpu ?


----------



## indecisive29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkdg100*
> 
> if you want to spend for the G1.Sniper 3 , by all means that is a gamers board . best GB has too offer . now you should just decide between that and the asus 300+ bucks boards and you are all set .
> btw . why did you get a non K ver of the cpu ?


I did some research and found that if I am not OC'ing that the 3770 is actually the preferred proc (hopefully this is accurate info). I have some what of buyers remorse getting it, but since this is my first build I did not think I was going to be messing around with OC'ing too much.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> All I want to know is why SpeedFan is reading temps wrong and not controlling fans either. Then I'm set.
> edit:
> X79 was just recently added.. these boards may take awhile.


Were you able to get speedfan to control fan speeds?


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I don't think it does, you can look at it more, you have the board, install the creative XF-I suite and see if it is there, if it is then its just software emulation of the creative tech. IMO just get an analog normal headphones, IDK about Corsairs, they should be fine.
> I have some sennheiser headphones they are pretty cool have bass tubes and all. http://www.sennheiserusa.com/pro-gamer-headset-usb-pc-skype-voip they are expensive tho. They aren't made for gaming, aka. they don't' have a microphone.


I figured I let you know I just got the Corsair 1300 today and it sounds awesome with the on board audio!

It took me a while to figure out how to get surround sound working with these headphones and when I did wow it is amazing! Batman and BF3 is like a different game now.

For those who are curious to get the surround sound and THX working, I had to set it to 5.1 in windows realtek driver but in creative panel I set it to headphones, and then turned on THX surround on THX studio Pro


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkdg100*
> 
> snakes you feel confident your cooler is seated well ? what thermal paste did you use ? temps should lower after a few days bake on ... a ways back you said your idle temps were high , did you cross check that with a couple of proggies while watching fan speeds ? i am just hanging out at 4.4ghz and never break 50c under normal use and i have the 212+ cooler .
> you can use GTL . to *tweak* the volts while in widows and watch your temps when you apply settings . you know can get enthusiasts insurance from intel for 20 bucks and play to your hearts desire ...


I feel like my idle temps aren't bad, often idling around 38-42C. I originally felt like I may have screwed up the cooler installation but when I checked my temps it seemed like it ended up pretty good. I used MX-2 paste. With my current settings I was playing what's probably my most cpu-intensive game and didnt get past like 61C which I feel is pretty good. I wouldn't do anything as intensive as prime95 under normal usage and that brings me to about 66-67C. I'll look into that GTL, sounds handy. I'm feeling relatively satisfied with what I'm getting right now in terms of OC and temps, I had never intended to go past 4GHz so if I can do that and keep under about 65C on load then that feels about right. I had two temp progs giving me slightly different temps, and two other progs showed that the cpu fan seemed pretty low. CPU fan is just under 700rpm on idle, not sure about load. It was Hardware Monitor and Core Temp which were giving me different temps, HWM was like 3-5C lower. HWM kept crashing so I don't know if it's reliable.


----------



## nimitz87

here is my 2nd attempt vcore in BIOS 1.300 CPU-Z showing 1.296.

Pll set to 1.171 LLC Turbo.










Chad


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> All I want to know is why SpeedFan is reading temps wrong and not controlling fans either. Then I'm set.
> edit:
> X79 was just recently added.. these boards may take awhile.
> 
> 
> 
> Were you able to get speedfan to control fan speeds?
Click to expand...

No. It doesn't control PWM and needs a +20 degree offset to the core temp readings.


----------



## eaglepowers

Update on my previous problem getting this message every minute: "Power Surge On Hub Port" A USB device has exceeded the power limits of the hub port..... Turns out all I had to do was reset my cmos and it went away. Spent hours trying everything else. I should have known better because in my case it all started after I reset my cmos. Hopefully this info will save someone else time.


----------



## eaglepowers

I've now tried 2 usb 3.0 external hard drives and I noticed slight stuttering when transferring files. My mouse is responsive during the transfer but IE pauses when you click on things? Anyone else notice this? I'm on bios F7.


----------



## Snakes

Oh crap, I screwed up my BIOS. What happened was I had my lowered vcore of 1.135 which has been very stable (passes prime95 and intel burntest) and then I made two changes. I disabled Integrated Graphics and I raised my CPU multiplier from 40 to 42. Ever since I made those changes I get a BSOD if I try to boot into windows and if I try to get into the BIOS it freezes after 5 seconds and I have to hard reset. I'm assuming that the CPU is unable to run at 4.2GHz on 1.135v and that's what's causing my problem? I'm unable to set it back because the BIOS freezes before I can change anything so I'd like to reflash the messed up BIOS from within my backup BIOS which I am using right now. I googled all over and can't find the trick to doing this, even read the manual. This has to be possible, right? I thought I had read that if you press the right key in Qflash there was an option to flash your alternate BIOS instead of the current one? Please help!


----------



## eaglepowers

The easiest way is to open up your case and clear the cmos. Turn off you computer and unplug the power and push the clear cmos button on the MB. That will give you default values back. Hopefully you either remember all your settings or you saved your profile somewhere? Freaked me out when it happened to me too.


----------



## Snakes

Shoot, that makes sense, why didn't I think of that? Thanks a ton. Yeah I didn't change many things so I remember what settings I had. Does anyone think this could have been caused by disabling the integrated graphics, and not by raising my multiplier? I would have expected that if it's not getting enough voltage the PC would just crash but still allow me into the BIOS to change it. That's what happened when I set my vcore too low at x40 multiplier. Some of the times that it froze in the BIOS there were corrupt graphics on the screen, I hope the BIOS isn't corrupt.

Okay, I reset cmos and loaded optimized defaults, everything seems fine now. Then as a test I disabled Internal Graphics again while leaving every other setting on default. It seems perfectly fine with that disabled so the freezing had to be due to the multiplier change. I guess in the future I'll try keeping the vcore at default when I try to go above 40x multiplier and hopefully this doesn't happen again. I wanted to disable integrated graphics to see if my temps would reduce at all.

Did some testing with vcore on Auto at 42x multiplier and wasn't comfortable with the temps, lowered vcore to 1.145 and bios started freezing again. It's settled, I'm going to stick with vcore 1.135 and multiplier of 40. Passes intel burntest with acceptable temps and should be adequate horsepower for my gaming needs. Sorry for writing an essay here.


----------



## nimitz87

dude that's a low voltage, should be happy with that although your temps are average. what are the ambients?



still running 6 hours later Vcore in bios 1.300 LLC extreme, Vcore in CPU-Z 1.296 PLL 1.71

max temps 62 deg 20-21 ambient.

custom blend @ 90% RAM 6 hours so far.

Chad


----------



## nimitz87

I had planned on adding a second fan to the 212+ for a push/pull setup, now I don't know if it would even do anything considering how low my temps are.

still have the 2 120 side panel fans to add too.

Chad


----------



## mandrix

Does anyone know if DTS Connect works on these boards (specifically the UD5H). I had all the Creative stuff installed but did not look for it before I uninstalled. I know it's a software enabled thing for this codec but it sure would be handy for me as I have tons of DTS 5.1. I found what I think is DTS Connect on the Gigabyte install disk but it did not install - maybe because like I said I uninstalled all the Creative stuff?

BTW finished (another) 15 hour Prime 95 run at x45 with max vcore 1.285, droop on and off to 1.272. Seems to be the best this cpu will do, so now it's on to higher clocks. Sure been fun playing with this board, unlike my Z68/2600K which is a PITA voltage muncher..


----------



## Sin0822

yes the new boards are very good with voltage reg.

Okay so for DTS and some other software, it doesn't auto install so please install it yourself.

BTW if you freeze while your board can't clear CMOS, there is a way you can hit the power button a certain way to engage safe mode in the BIOS. I think you hit power, then let go and hold back the power switch while the system is turning on, then let go after it shuts off and hit on again like 20 seconds later.


----------



## Chameleon114

Hi all, I have the GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB WIFI and have a question about the Wifi/Bluetooth expansion card (model GC-WB300D) that comes bundled in the package. I didn't want to use the USB cable supplied with the card as I prefer to use the USB header on my motherboard for my case's front USB panel. I have the R_USB plugged into a USB slot in the back panel of my motherboard, but it doesn't seem to be working so does that mean I have to use the USB header cable? If so, what is the point of the R_USB jack?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Shoot, that makes sense, why didn't I think of that? Thanks a ton. Yeah I didn't change many things so I remember what settings I had. Does anyone think this could have been caused by disabling the integrated graphics, and not by raising my multiplier? I would have expected that if it's not getting enough voltage the PC would just crash but still allow me into the BIOS to change it. That's what happened when I set my vcore too low at x40 multiplier. Some of the times that it froze in the BIOS there were corrupt graphics on the screen, I hope the BIOS isn't corrupt.
> Okay, I reset cmos and loaded optimized defaults, everything seems fine now. Then as a test I disabled Internal Graphics again while leaving every other setting on default. It seems perfectly fine with that disabled so the freezing had to be due to the multiplier change. I guess in the future I'll try keeping the vcore at default when I try to go above 40x multiplier and hopefully this doesn't happen again. I wanted to disable integrated graphics to see if my temps would reduce at all.
> Did some testing with vcore on Auto at 42x multiplier and wasn't comfortable with the temps, lowered vcore to 1.145 and bios started freezing again. It's settled, I'm going to stick with vcore 1.135 and multiplier of 40. Passes intel burntest with acceptable temps and should be adequate horsepower for my gaming needs. Sorry for writing an essay here.


or you could have just opened your case and moved the bios switch to the backup. glad to hear that the clear cmos button worked.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> or you could have just opened your case and moved the bios switch to the backup. glad to hear that the clear cmos button worked.


I did that, that's how I got on here to post for help. What I needed to do was fix the bad settings in the first bios, which I couldn't get into to change.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> dude that's a low voltage, should be happy with that although your temps are average. what are the ambients?


Ambient is around 23-24C. I've noticed the CPU fan runs around 1300-1600rpm but it's shown a max of 2900+ in Hardware Monitor.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> seems stable at 1.130 (this is at 4GHz) with decent temps under Prime95, I think I'll continue with these settings. I ran prime95 tonight with small FFTs successfully for 4 hours, it's not the most thorough stress test but things are looking stable.


Oh no, I guess 1.135v isn't good enough for 4GHz afterall. Previously I had run prime95 for 7 hours at 1.130v with no errors but overnight one of my cores failed after 37 minutes at 1.135v (raised to 1.135 cause it failed intel burntest), the other 3 are going strong after 9 hours though. I guess my previous prime test was small fft and this one is large. What I don't understand is that in CPU-Z it never shows the vcore going over 1.068 yet if I set the vcore to 1.125-1.130 tests will fail or I'll BSOD.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yes the new boards are very good with voltage reg.
> Okay so for DTS and some other software, it doesn't auto install so please install it yourself.
> BTW if you freeze while your board can't clear CMOS, there is a way you can hit the power button a certain way to engage safe mode in the BIOS. I think you hit power, then let go and hold back the power switch while the system is turning on, then let go after it shuts off and hit on again like 20 seconds later.


I tried to install DTS Connect from the disk and it said "hardware not detected" or some such.. I reinstalled all the Creative, uh, "stuff", just to see if it would then install manually but no good.
....and the standard implementation of DTS through toslink (on Gigabyte boards) is no good since it will only pass stereo and not the 5.1 encoded so that it can be decoded at an AVR.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> or you could have just opened your case and moved the bios switch to the backup. glad to hear that the clear cmos button worked.
> 
> 
> 
> I did that, that's how I got on here to post for help. What I needed to do was fix the bad settings in the first bios, which I couldn't get into to change.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> dude that's a low voltage, should be happy with that although your temps are average. what are the ambients?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ambient is at least 23C. I've noticed the CPU fan runs around 1300-1600rpm but it's show a max of 2900+ in Hardware Monitor.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> seems stable at 1.130 (this is at 4GHz) with decent temps under Prime95, I think I'll continue with these settings. I ran prime95 tonight with small FFTs successfully for 4 hours, it's not the most thorough stress test but things are looking stable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Oh no, I guess 1.135v isn't good enough for 4GHz afterall.* Previously I had run prime95 for 7 hours at 1.130v with no errors but overnight one of my cores failed after 37 minutes at 1.135v, the other 3 are going strong after 9 hours though. I guess my previous prime test was small fft and this one is large. What I don't understand is that in CPU-Z it never shows the vcore going over 1.068 yet if I set the vcore to 1.125-1.130 tests will fail or I'll BSOD.
Click to expand...

That is bad. It's only a 100MHz overclock..


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> That is bad. It's only a 100MHz overclock..


It's a 600MHz overclock. I'm sure it'll past the tests at a higher vcore voltage but I'm trying to keep that low to prevent higher temps.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> That is bad. It's only a 100MHz overclock..
> 
> 
> 
> It's a 600MHz overclock. I'm sure it'll past the tests at a higher vcore voltage but I'm trying to keep that low to prevent higher temps.
Click to expand...

No, stock turbo multi on the 3570K is 38 or 39 depending on the motherboard. You have x40, correct? That's a 100/200MHz overclock.

If your Hyper 212 is having problems with heat above 1.13v @ 4000Mhz then you should reseat, or RMA the chip.


----------



## CoBrA2168

Hey guys, just finished my build today. I'm trying to update my BIOS with no luck. It came with F4, trying to get F7, but when I try to update using Q-Flash, it says the file size is incorrect.

Any ideas?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I did that, that's how I got on here to post for help. What I needed to do was fix the bad settings in the first bios, which I couldn't get into to change.
> Ambient is around 23-24C. I've noticed the CPU fan runs around 1300-1600rpm but it's shown a max of 2900+ in Hardware Monitor.
> Oh no, I guess 1.135v isn't good enough for 4GHz afterall. Previously I had run prime95 for 7 hours at 1.130v with no errors but overnight one of my cores failed after 37 minutes at 1.135v (raised to 1.135 cause it failed intel burntest), the other 3 are going strong after 9 hours though. I guess my previous prime test was small fft and this one is large. What I don't understand is that in CPU-Z it never shows the vcore going over 1.068 yet if I set the vcore to 1.125-1.130 tests will fail or I'll BSOD.


After you moved the switch to the backup bios and started the computer, do a restart and enter bios by hitting the del key. while in the bios set up, move bios switch back to primary and then do a save and exit.


----------



## jayarte

Very informative thread, and great review at start, Sin. I'm planning a new build soon, still dithering about components although beginning to lean towards Ivy Bridge chip. I had firmly decided to get the Asus Z77 after comparing features with GigabytD3H some time back, but now I'm thinking again and wondering what made you all choose Gigabyte over Asus?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I tried to install DTS Connect from the disk and it said "hardware not detected" or some such.. I reinstalled all the Creative, uh, "stuff", just to see if it would then install manually but no good.
> ....and the standard implementation of DTS through toslink (on Gigabyte boards) is no good since it will only pass stereo and not the 5.1 encoded so that it can be decoded at an AVR.


Try just passing thru the digital signal to the receiver with VLC or Powerdvd and you will get DTS, Dolby Digital or whatever the source is encoded in.

Simply set the default sound output to digital, open whatever movie you in Powerdvd and you are all done. DTS connect is not needed at all. I have the UD5H and I promise that's all that needs to be done. And, honestly, the same holds true for any board with a digital sound output. Just use the right playback software (Powerdvd) for your media and it's a easy win.

Btw, I thought I would hate the creative suite of apps. I'm a bit of a purist and I thought it would muck up the sound and be cumbersome to use. But I love it! I don't rock the setting too hard, but I like what the THX TruStudio does. Just a bit of friendly help.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> No, stock turbo multi on the 3570K is 38 or 39 depending on the motherboard. You have x40, correct? That's a 100/200MHz overclock.
> If your Hyper 212 is having problems with heat above 1.13v @ 4000Mhz then you should reseat, or RMA the chip.


The stock speed of the CPU is 3.4GHz, that's what I was going by. The default settings in the bios made it go up to 3.8 but that's already an overclock if the stock is 3.4, that's how I saw it. I don't know if they're problems, I just saw heat going up to like 75C and wasn't comfortable with it. I'll consider reseating. When I'm playing a fairly demanding game the temps don't really go over 60C so I feel like it's not that bad. My goal was 4GHz and if I can get that at around 60C under normal use then I figure I'm not doing that bad.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> After you moved the switch to the backup bios and started the computer, do a restart and enter bios by hitting the del key. while in the bios set up, move bios switch back to primary and then do a save and exit.


That'll save the current bios's settings to the other bios? That's a cool trick.

Dammit I meant to add this to my last post, sorry for double posting again.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoBrA2168*
> 
> Hey guys, just finished my build today. I'm trying to update my BIOS with no luck. It came with F4, trying to get F7, but when I try to update using Q-Flash, it says the file size is incorrect.
> Any ideas?


Just try to redownload it and extract one more time. It should be about 8mb in size.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoBrA2168*
> 
> Hey guys, just finished my build today. I'm trying to update my BIOS with no luck. It came with F4, trying to get F7, but when I try to update using Q-Flash, it says the file size is incorrect.
> Any ideas?


Make sure it is the correct BIOS for your board. Download it, extract it and put on your flash drive. Then use Qflash.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Try just passing thru the digital signal to the receiver with VLC or Powerdvd and you will get DTS, Dolby Digital or whatever the source is encoded in.
> Simply set the default sound output to digital, open whatever movie you in Powerdvd and you are all done. DTS connect is not needed at all. I have the UD5H and I promise that's all that needs to be done. And, honestly, the same holds true for any board with a digital sound output. Just use the right playback software (Powerdvd) for your media and it's a easy win.
> Btw, I thought I would hate the creative suite of apps. I'm a bit of a purist and I thought it would muck up the sound and be cumbersome to use. But I love it! I don't rock the setting too hard, but I like what the THX TruStudio does. Just a bit of friendly help.


I have tried VLC and Foobar but only stereo comes out playing a 5.1 /44.1kHz DTS encoded music via toslink. Have you tried playback with a 5.1 DTS wav file? That is my main interest.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayarte*
> 
> Very informative thread, and great review at start, Sin. I'm planning a new build soon, still dithering about components although beginning to lean towards Ivy Bridge chip. I had firmly decided to get the Asus Z77 after comparing features with GigabytD3H some time back, but now I'm thinking again and wondering what made you all choose Gigabyte over Asus?


Which ASUS board were you contemplating?
I think the reason is because ASUS is charging way too much. Also GB has extremely high build quality on their main line(UD3H, D3H, UD5H) which competes with ROG quality. That is one thing GB does extremely well, some motherboard makers will build boards with cheaper parts and the same features, but after a few years the durablity will start to show. GB's Ultra durable thing really is a legit thing. GB's OC and Voltage reg this round is also extremely strong even in the cheap boards like the D3H. I think the D3H is excellent for BCLK OC, some boards are better tuned because they are more basic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> The stock speed of the CPU is 3.4GHz, that's what I was going by. The default settings in the bios made it go up to 3.8 but that's already an overclock if the stock is 3.4, that's how I saw it. I don't know if they're problems, I just saw heat going up to like 75C and wasn't comfortable with it. I'll consider reseating. When I'm playing a fairly demanding game the temps don't really go over 60C so I feel like it's not that bad. My goal was 4GHz and if I can get that at around 60C under normal use then I figure I'm not doing that bad.


Hey man, i would remount, but anyways if you are happy with it then that is great!! GOod work man, everyone has to start from somewhere. Also you are aware that you can get a new CPU if you break yours from OC right? Intel has a $20-25 no questions OC warranty now.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey man, i would remount, but anyways if you are happy with it then that is great!! GOod work man, everyone has to start from somewhere. Also you are aware that you can get a new CPU if you break yours from OC right? Intel has a $20-25 no questions OC warranty now.


I'm satisfied with what I've got but cooler is always better, I don't want to do it now but I'll keep reseating in mind for the future. I have overclocked in the past but things were far more simple back then, all I had to do before was raise my fsb by a few mhz and no worry about voltages or anything else. So I'm kind of a beginner all over again. I'm not going to push the CPU hard so I don't think I'll get the insurance.


----------



## bkdg100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkdg100*
> 
> using ; f3-14900cl9q-16bxl
> i get same issue , 4x 4gb ripjaws , nothing works except single channel mode in slots 1and 3 . nothing can be put in 2 or 4 slot , anyone else have a thought on this ? is bios not auto detecting and setting up dual channel ? can it be forced ?


UPDAtED 5/16/12

just a follow up to my original mem problem ( channel B slots worked , channel A did not, code 15 with constant beeping ) . so i popped out cpu and behold a funny looking pin in upper right area , got rma for board ( refund ) and ordered another ,. TODAY i got new board , just popped in the board and cpu , stuck mem in all four slots and bingo , it boots, no codes .

it is my belief that the spring tension in one of the socket's pins was inadequate ( the portion that handles mem ). i had inspected the socket thoroughly before i put my cpu in and did not see the wimpy looking pin i saw when i removed it . i can only assume the cpu pressure showed the culprit .

i still love this board , even with a little setback of having to run memory in only channel b for a week now ...


----------



## CoBrA2168

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Just try to redownload it and extract one more time. It should be about 8mb in size.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Make sure it is the correct BIOS for your board. Download it, extract it and put on your flash drive. Then use Qflash.


Redownloading, and re-extracting worked. Very odd.

I'll post tomorrow after I'm able to get all the drivers installed and use it a bit. For now I've had other things to do.

Also, I only have a 3770. I have no plans to overclock (guess I'm on the wrong forum lol).


----------



## HSG502

Hey guys, I got my UD3H a while ago now but haven't had time to build yet.

I just thought I'd ask what drivers from the website or from the driver disk I need to install to get up an running well. (I'm mainly concerned about the chipset and sata drivers as I haven't dealt with SSDs before and this will be my first build with one).

Is the driver disk that came with the board enough to get me started or should I just download and install all the drivers from the Gigabyte website?

Cheers for any help you guys can provide.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Well the fiberglass in the PCB reduces humidity damage, in certain regions of the world where boards are sold there are a very high numbers of RMAs due to humidity, the fiberglass PCb is a bit more expensive but accounts for it.
> 
> 2oz PCB also isn't something normally done. I know ROG boards do have this, but the rest of the mainstream asus lineup might not, it is expensive b/c of price of copper, but it also allows you to not heatsink some MOSFETs like on the UD3H.


why is the ud5 mosfets on the top portion of the board sinked and the ud3 not?

I thought it was to save money.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HSG502*
> 
> Hey guys, I got my UD3H a while ago now but haven't had time to build yet.
> I just thought I'd ask what drivers from the website or from the driver disk I need to install to get up an running well. (I'm mainly concerned about the chipset and sata drivers as I haven't dealt with SSDs before and this will be my first build with one).
> Is the driver disk that came with the board enough to get me started or should I just download and install all the drivers from the Gigabyte website?
> Cheers for any help you guys can provide.


You'll want to Install the Intel Rapid Storage Technology drivers from here LINK. That the newest one.

Then from the Gigabyte driver page LINK you'll want to download and install the following:

Realtek Function Driver
Intel Management Engine Interface
Intel INF Installation
Intel LAN Driver
Intel USB 3.0 Driver

**You can skip the Atheros LAN driver if you don't plan on using it. the top LAN port on the motherboard is the Intel one and is better from what I hear.

Skip Intel Rapid Storage Tech because you already got that from the Intel website

Skip Marvell stuff unless you plan on using the Marvell Sata ports. You want to use the Intel Sata ports because they're better.

Skip Intel VGA Driver unless you plan on using the Integrated graphics.

Edit: Oh and if you want to use all the creative audio software it can only be found on the driver CD that came with the board


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> You'll want to Install the Intel Rapid Storage Technology drivers from here LINK. That the newest one.


I just wanted to comment that you don't need the f6flpy "diskette" files from this page, I only downloaded the STOR one and that was all I needed. They tell you on the page to get both but it's not required unless maybe you're trying to make a floppy disk. This had me confused so if I can help clear it up for someone else that'd be cool.


----------



## SuperKW

Hey guys,
do i need more than 7 hours to check stability on prime ?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperKW*
> 
> Hey guys,
> do i need more than 7 hours to check stability on prime ?


I've been going between these two stress testing guides, usually I've read to go for 12 hours. I'm planning to do 12 hours of Prime95 large FFT tonight. I already ran Intel Burntest successfully.

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?s=2aa066021c544b04f5c6f481e67d1f45&t=2195063

http://www.masterslair.com/ram-cpu-stress-testing-software-tools-prime95-intel-burn-test/


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperKW*
> 
> Hey guys,
> do i need more than 7 hours to check stability on prime ?


It's enough imho, I'm using even less.
Check if you're stable with the *latest Linx* too (0.6.4 Avx Edition, new library).


----------



## bobn4burton

So I was all set to pick up the UD5H. It has everything I wanted and was the right price point. Then I started seeing all the problems being report with random freezes and lock-ups.

Should I be concerned about that? My second choice board would be the P8Z77-V.

Also...has anyone seen this?

http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/carl/gigabyte-address-z77x-ud5h-rumours/


----------



## SuperKW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> It's enough imho, I'm using even less.
> Check if you're stable with the *latest Linx* too (0.6.4 Avx Edition, new library).


Just did the test with linx, the temp reached 80 max


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperKW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> It's enough imho, I'm using even less.
> Check if you're stable with the *latest Linx* too (0.6.4 Avx Edition, new library).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just did the test with linx, the temp reached 80 max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Raise the problem size to at least 25000 (or even more since you have 16Gb of ram) to see if you're rs.
And use the latest Linx (Avx Edition), so you'll get even hotter.


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> So I was all set to pick up the UD5H. It has everything I wanted and was the right price point. Then I started seeing all the problems being report with random freezes and lock-ups.
> Should I be concerned about that? My second choice board would be the P8Z77-V.
> Also...has anyone seen this?
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/carl/gigabyte-address-z77x-ud5h-rumours/


Pretty much B.S. in my opinion but a know some others have experienced some lock-ups while in bios.

I have 2 UD5H boards and a UD3H and I have not encountered any freezes.

Search the web enough and you will see these stories about all motherboards.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> So I was all set to pick up the UD5H. It has everything I wanted and was the right price point. Then I started seeing all the problems being report with random freezes and lock-ups.
> Should I be concerned about that? My second choice board would be the P8Z77-V.
> Also...has anyone seen this?
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/carl/gigabyte-address-z77x-ud5h-rumours/


Sounds like a load to me. Outside of the normal hiccups with early BIOS versions mine has been solid with overclocks.


----------



## brothergc

well I spent a day reading thru (127 pgs) of this forum and am impressed , so much , that I decided on buying a GA-Z77X-UD3H . I was going to buy a asus z77 sabertooth , but 240 bucks is outragous IMO . You guys sold me . While I am no overclocker my idea for this build a stock clock stable system , a everday system that runs like the wind . nervous about my choice as I am not all that building computers but do have manyunder my belt . I be running a core I3 sandy to start and updating to f9 bios asap , so any other tips will be apreciated


----------



## HSG502

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> You'll want to Install the Intel Rapid Storage Technology drivers from here LINK. That the newest one.
> Then from the Gigabyte driver page LINK you'll want to download and install the following:
> Realtek Function Driver
> Intel Management Engine Interface
> Intel INF Installation
> Intel LAN Driver
> Intel USB 3.0 Driver
> **You can skip the Atheros LAN driver if you don't plan on using it. the top LAN port on the motherboard is the Intel one and is better from what I hear.
> Skip Intel Rapid Storage Tech because you already got that from the Intel website
> Skip Marvell stuff unless you plan on using the Marvell Sata ports. You want to use the Intel Sata ports because they're better.
> Skip Intel VGA Driver unless you plan on using the Integrated graphics.
> Edit: Oh and if you want to use all the creative audio software it can only be found on the driver CD that came with the board


Thanks man, but I have the UD3H, and it only has 1 LAN port. Is it Intel or Atheros?

Just checked the manual and there is no Marvell SATA controller so I guess that can be cut from the list definitely.

I will be using the onboard VGA though since I don't have a graphics card yet. Is there a link to those anywhere?

edit: derped on sound card vs graphics card spelling =P


----------



## covar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> Pretty much B.S. in my opinion but a know some others have experienced some lock-ups while in bios.
> I have 2 UD5H boards and a UD3H and I have not encountered any freezes.
> Search the web enough and you will see these stories about all motherboards.


...and always find someone who claims the problem doesn't exist of course









Anyway, after seeing a few posts by others with this issue, it seems that is happens mostly after a BIOS update or a "Load Optimised Defaults". Best fix seems to be to amend some settings and save the BIOS again before booting into Windows. Reports vary but people have had success with setting VID and BCLK manually.

Since setting BCLK to 100.1 manually I've not had a single freeze, no other adjustments done to the system except setting multi to 43. It's looking much better now so I'll start overclocking properly and hopefully the issue won't comes back.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I have tried VLC and Foobar but only stereo comes out playing a 5.1 /44.1kHz DTS encoded music via toslink. Have you tried playback with a 5.1 DTS wav file? That is my main interest.


Yes I have. I use Powerdvd and I can guarantee it works.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HSG502*
> 
> Thanks man, but I have the UD3H, and it only has 1 LAN port. Is it Intel or Atheros?
> Just checked the manual and there is no Marvell SATA controller so I guess that can be cut from the list definitely.
> I will be using the onboard VGA though since I don't have a graphics card yet. Is there a link to those anywhere?
> edit: derped on sound card vs graphics card spelling =P


ugh sorry man must'v been late when I wrote that..

Here's the LINK To your board's download page.

The Intel Rapid Storage Driver from my last post still applies and like Snakes said just download / install (STOR_Win7_XP_11.1.0.1006.exe)

Your board has Atheros LAN - Install that and the following
Via Audio
Intel management engine interface
Intel INF installation
There is a Marvell controller on the board that controls the rear external Sata ports - install if you want
VIA USB 3.0
Intel SUB 3.0 Driver
Intel VGA Driver - I checked the Intel website and this driver appears to be current.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> So I was all set to pick up the UD5H. It has everything I wanted and was the right price point. Then I started seeing all the problems being report with random freezes and lock-ups.
> Should I be concerned about that? My second choice board would be the P8Z77-V.
> Also...has anyone seen this?
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/carl/gigabyte-address-z77x-ud5h-rumours/


You have any thoughts on this Sin?


----------



## Kristof

Could someone help me overclock my i5 3570k on my UD3H? And I am trying to overclock my samsung memory as well.


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Could someone help me overclock my i5 3570k on my UD3H? And I am trying to overclock my samsung memory as well.


Good place to start is Sin's guide for Ivy Bridge overclocking, it's very thorough. And luckily he uses a Gigabyte board so the bios screen will be identical.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

After that you can come back and ask questions to further tweak your settings.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> So I was all set to pick up the UD5H. It has everything I wanted and was the right price point. Then I started seeing all the problems being report with random freezes and lock-ups.
> Should I be concerned about that? My second choice board would be the P8Z77-V.
> Also...has anyone seen this?
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/carl/gigabyte-address-z77x-ud5h-rumours/
> 
> 
> 
> You have any thoughts on this Sin?
Click to expand...

Most new boards and chipsets have early problems. BIOS updates always solve them, but you have to wait a few months.


----------



## Gregar Forte

Hi,i'm planning to buy Intel Core i5 2500K and a Z77 Gigabyte board.I'm planning to buy Z77-D3H or Z77X-D3H.Which board are better in term of performance and reliability?Tq for any advice.


----------



## graywulf

Sin, why do you have C1E disabled but the other power saving options enabled in your 4.5 ghz DVID profile?


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *graywulf*
> 
> Sin, why do you have C1E disabled but the other power saving options enabled in your 4.5 ghz DVID profile?


I've heard this is some trick to reduce temps but it didn't do anything for me.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Most new boards and chipsets have early problems. BIOS updates always solve them, but you have to wait a few months.


The link is to a hardware related matter, not bios. Still wondering if Sin has any thoughts.


----------



## samwiches

Oh I see.

Still, BIOS updates tend to improve stability. Those caps do look f'd up tho.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> The link is to a hardware related matter, not bios. Still wondering if Sin has any thoughts.


So the competition has identified that Gigabyte does something different. Anonymous engineer as the source. Hmmmm.
I've not had, or heard of any issues overclocking with this board.


----------



## samwiches

But does anyone have those crooked capacitors?


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> But does anyone have those crooked capacitors?


I think the article is saying that the Gigabyte board doesn't have capacitors at all on the back. Apparently they're used for LLC.


----------



## KillrBuckeye

New member here. I just built a new rig with the UD5H and Ivy Bridge 3770K last week, and I've skimmed through all 129 pages of this thread over the past couple of days. There is so much great information. Thanks to Sin for regularly monitoring this thread and providing technical support. I found the Ivy Bridge overclocking guide to be especially helpful as well.

I have my 3770K running at 4.4 GHz using DVID of -1.5 mV. CPU-Z reports Vcore of 1.188 under full load. My Prime 95 load temps hit 87C on one core while the other 3 are 80-81C. I'm using a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo cooler. Unfortunately it seems I need to use a positive voltage offset (DVID) in order to stabilize 4.5 GHz, and then my load temps reach into the low 90s. I'm not really comfortable operating in the 90s, so I'm hoping to be able to reduce temperatures somehow. I haven't played with the LLC or CPU PLL as mentioned here, but that will be my next step. I'm also not sure if I have the IGP disabled or not. Anything else you can recommend (aside from better cooling) to try to stabilize things while keeping temperatures in check? I can always try reseating the Evo, but I don't think that's the problem.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> But does anyone have those crooked capacitors?


I use those sort of capacitors for work - but I'm not going to bother fitting any to my Z77X-UD5H just yet









For those who are interested:
It is usually "good practice" to put capacitors like this on power supply signals to chips, especially processors.
Processors don't consume current smoothly; it tends to be drawn in gulps and spikes, with these "current transients" moving up and down incredibly fast. Now, when there's a brief high peak of current, the voltage at the chip will tend to drop a bit because of the electrical resistance in the circuit tracks. As the current falls, the voltage will rise. Not a good idea.
In principle, the "load line compensation" is designed to compensate for this fluctuation in current and keep the voltage actually at the chip steady, but in practice it can never react fast enough to keep pace with the very fastest changes of current.
Are you with me so far? Good.
So, this is where capacitors are useful. Think of them like little reserve buckets of current right at the chip, ready to supplement the power supply and provide the extra little transients of current when they are needed, smoothing out the current changes, and helping the load line compensation to cope.
I believe that the intel processor chips themselves actually have some capacitors integrated into the chip package. This is great, because that's exactly where they are most effective. Of course, more fitted on the board close to the processor should not do any harm.
Now, if you've got a really clever power supply on the motherboard than can react very quickly to the changes in current, the "belt and braces" capacitors fitted to the motherboard are probably less important. The digital power supplies that Gigabyte are using should have a very fast response to transient current changes ("transient load regulation"), so may well not need the extra capacitors. The fact that there are circuit board "pads" in place where capacitors could be fitted shows that Gigabyte considered the possibility of them being needed, but ulimately decided not to fit them. The cost saving is not much, so that's probably not the reason.
The heavyweight copper used by Gigabyte for their circuit board also reduces the droop in voltage with current transients, again making the extra capacitors less important.

Summary: Gigabyte are using a state-of-the-art onboard power supply. If the motherboard works well without dozens of extra capacitors by the processor, then leaving them out should only make it more reliable. A less experienced designer might fit them anyway "just in case".


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> So the competition has identified that Gigabyte does something different. Anonymous engineer as the source. Hmmmm.
> I've not had, or heard of any issues overclocking with this board.


It's a bunch of poppycock... These boards overclock incredibly well. Hell, Sin has gotten a chip to over 6ghz. I'm sitting at 5ghz easy. I don't understand how anyone can say these boards have an overclocking problem. Any amount of research into third party reviews would indicate that the article linked was bogus.


----------



## threevok

Thanks for taking time to explain that fasty.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> But does anyone have those crooked capacitors?
> 
> 
> 
> I think the article is saying that the Gigabyte board doesn't have capacitors at all on the back. Apparently they're used for LLC.
Click to expand...

OMGZ... when I paid for my motherboard I expected to find tiny capacitors behind the socket. Sin what the hell???


----------



## PMantis24

fasty, thanks a lot for that very informative and educational post









So, just like a few people pointed out in that article, probably mudslinging by one of their competitors.


----------



## brothergc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brothergc*
> 
> well I spent a day reading thru (127 pgs) of this forum and am impressed , so much , that I decided on buying a GA-Z77X-UD3H . I was going to buy a asus z77 sabertooth , but 240 bucks is outragous IMO . You guys sold me . While I am no overclocker my idea for this build a stock clock stable system , a everday system that runs like the wind . nervous about my choice as I am not all that building computers but do have manyunder my belt . I be running a core I3 sandy to start and updating to f9 bios asap , so any other tips will be apreciated


Update:
Holy Fast shipping batman ! I just pushed the button on this board from amazon Thrusday morn, and in 3 hrs UPS has it in hand and sceduled for delivery tomorrow , this friday ! And no I did not pay for overnight shipping, in fact I opted to free super saver shipping . Beat that New egg !








Aslo my 2x4gb Cricial tactial tracer 1600mhz arrived today. geez must wait till my 3750 comes in , and my copy of win 7 64 pro. Till then I be testing the board with good old xp pro


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Yes I have. I use Powerdvd and I can guarantee it works.


Thanks. I had to think back a bit, since I only use HDMI on my HTPC I sort of got away from using the big programs, and preferring to use smaller ones like Foobar on my main machine. I remember now it's all in the way the software treats the signal. and how it get's passed to it. Still would like to have DTS Connect as it should give more flexibility for using different software.
I don't watch movies on my main rig and pretty much prep everything lossless over to DTS-MA & MKV for playback on the HTPC, mostly listen to DTS wav on the main one.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> I use those sort of capacitors for work - but I'm not going to bother fitting any to my Z77X-UD5H just yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those who are interested:
> It is usually "good practice" to put capacitors like this on power supply signals to chips, especially processors.
> Processors don't consume current smoothly; it tends to be drawn in gulps and spikes, with these "current transients" moving up and down incredibly fast. Now, when there's a brief high peak of current, the voltage at the chip will tend to drop a bit because of the electrical resistance in the circuit tracks. As the current falls, the voltage will rise. Not a good idea.
> In principle, the "load line compensation" is designed to compensate for this fluctuation in current and keep the voltage actually at the chip steady, but in practice it can never react fast enough to keep pace with the very fastest changes of current.
> Are you with me so far? Good.
> So, this is where capacitors are useful. Think of them like little reserve buckets of current right at the chip, ready to supplement the power supply and provide the extra little transients of current when they are needed, smoothing out the current changes, and helping the load line compensation to cope.
> I believe that the intel processor chips themselves actually have some capacitors integrated into the chip package. This is great, because that's exactly where they are most effective. Of course, more fitted on the board close to the processor should not do any harm.
> Now, if you've got a really clever power supply on the motherboard than can react very quickly to the changes in current, the "belt and braces" capacitors fitted to the motherboard are probably less important. The digital power supplies that Gigabyte are using should have a very fast response to transient current changes ("transient load regulation"), so may well not need the extra capacitors. The fact that there are circuit board "pads" in place where capacitors could be fitted shows that Gigabyte considered the possibility of them being needed, but ulimately decided not to fit them. The cost saving is not much, so that's probably not the reason.
> The heavyweight copper used by Gigabyte for their circuit board also reduces the droop in voltage with current transients, again making the extra capacitors less important.
> Summary: Gigabyte are using a state-of-the-art onboard power supply. If the motherboard works well without dozens of extra capacitors by the processor, then leaving them out should only make it more reliable. A less experienced designer might fit them anyway "just in case".


That is a very well stated explanation. I'm not an EE but do have some working knowledge of electronics albeit some years back in practical terms. I think you've given a realistic overview.


----------



## psyside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> To you D3H owners, (non UD3H).
> How high are you able to take your cpus? The board comes with 4 pin cpu power connector and I'm wondering if that is a hindrance.


Just get UD3H.


----------



## nimitz87

ran into a problem.

I've been playing D3 pretty much all day no problems, went to shut down and then boot into BIOS and now it won't boot.

I get a POST beep and this error on the LED

A6- Detect and install all currently connected SCSI devices.

any ideas, I've tried clearing CMOS and no luck, haven't tried BIOS 2.

found this...not much help though

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/311840-30-cannot-enter-bios-blue-screen-gigabyte-ud3h


----------



## samwiches

Use the backup to reflash the original BIOS then.

F9 has been out for the UD3H. Anyone tried it? Higher stability/clocks?

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Use the backup to reflash the original BIOS then.
> 
> F9 has been out for the UD3H. Anyone tried it? Higher stability/clocks?
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html


I would like to know what and why this happened so I can prevent it from happening again

it just dawned on me, the 6 might be a letter b instead which would make it ready to be configured in the BIOS but I have no display or bios


----------



## Kristof

I am trying to overclock using the F9 bios and I cannot change many settings. I press enter and/or double click on a setting and I cannot change it from "Auto".


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> I am trying to overclock using the F9 bios and I cannot change many settings. I press enter and/or double click on a setting and I cannot change it from "Auto".


Use the page up / page down buttons. For voltages you can type the number in manually. I think the +/- buttons work too.


----------



## Snakes

Well, I believe my Prime95 large FFT test has been failing because my vcore was too low. What I don't understand is that I'd manually set vcore to 1.140 in BIOS and it would run at only 1.056v during testing. I set it back to auto and it now runs right around the default of 1.155 as you'd expect. Maybe adjusting the vcore by offset instead of manually typing in the value would be the way to go, I'll have to look into how to accomplish that. At auto the temps are a little bit high but still reasonable.


----------



## nimitz87

got it woking yay


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> You have any thoughts on this Sin?


The deal with some users reporting issues with random BSODs after loading optimized defaults. It is odd issues b/c it doesn't' happen during OCing, I just tell people to RMA their boards if they have odd issues like that. Also some users have said changing the BCLK to 100.00 gets rid of it, so GB is changing the default BCLK to a bit lower than it is now to make up for the 0.1% of CPUs that can't deal with a 0.7% increase in BCLK. I just tell people to manually set their vcore, change their BCLK, or OC. OC is the odd one, the issue doesn't' happen when OCed it seems. Thus GB is lowering the default BCLK back to closer to 100. GB did it that way to help stock benchmark scores, they only did it because some boards, i will not list the boards, will take all the CPU Core ratios to top instead of just a single core, thus making the other boards look bad. Now you can't see this or set this, but it will happen on a stock default load up, so GB isn't going to do that so they increase the BCLK slightly so the top clocks are a bit higher. The issues is that no one states what they can and should do, and they will do what they can as to not hurt stability. Some board makers will have the top turbo multiplier be one greater than Intel spec as well. All games, and caused by reviewers who don't want to compare correctly. Running a benchmark with turbo in itself wont give you very consistent results either.

However freezing in the BIOS is a result of a unstable OC.

I would not worry about the BSOD issue, a lot of users are not reporting it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregar Forte*
> 
> Hi,i'm planning to buy Intel Core i5 2500K and a Z77 Gigabyte board.I'm planning to buy Z77-D3H or Z77X-D3H.Which board are better in term of performance and reliability?Tq for any advice.


I would get the X.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> So the competition has identified that Gigabyte does something different. Anonymous engineer as the source. Hmmmm.
> I've not had, or heard of any issues overclocking with this board.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> ran into a problem.
> I've been playing D3 pretty much all day no problems, went to shut down and then boot into BIOS and now it won't boot.
> I get a POST beep and this error on the LED
> A6- Detect and install all currently connected SCSI devices.
> any ideas, I've tried clearing CMOS and no luck, haven't tried BIOS 2.
> found this...not much help though
> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/311840-30-cannot-enter-bios-blue-screen-gigabyte-ud3h


Which code?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *graywulf*
> 
> Sin, why do you have C1E disabled but the other power saving options enabled in your 4.5 ghz DVID profile?


I actually didn't do that on purpose lol, it is supposed to be enabled.

Now to Kitguru's sad attempt to get hits. LOL I mean if you don't know what kind of caps those are you really shouldn't ever comment on them like you know what is going on!!! haha it is too funny.

First of all the GIGABYTE Z77 boards they have NO ISSUEs OCing at ALL. The GB boards surprise under LN2 too in pure frequency(seriously take it for a spin, many LN2 OCers use them), IMO bring it on, these boards have no issues with CPU OC like someone stated they heard a few pages back.

As to the lack of multi-layer ceramic (MLCC) capacitors on the back of the board, there is a reason for why some board makers use are both types of capacitors, that reason is that part of their VRM needs the use of high frequency ceramics which have low ESR, while other VRMs don't because the ESR and speed of their VRMs are good enough without them. The capacitors in general act as large energy storage, in normal operation there are huge swings in current, and the rate at which that current can be provided to the CPU as it changes load states is extremely important. That is why there is an output capacitor bank. It can sink or supply power as needed. However the caps have to charge and they have to discharge, so in general two types of capacitors are used, ceramics which are extremely small are good at operating at high frequencies and have very low capacitance. Electrolytic ones are those that look like cans, they also have higher ESR as well as high capacitance ratings, they generally also don't operate at high frequencies.

ESR=effective series resistance
ESL=effective series inductance

Basically just like MOSFETs(MOSFETs can be thought of as having capacitance and resistance), capacitors have parasitics which are characteristics one wants to minimize in the capacitor. Inductance and resistance are two very big ones, which hinder a capacitors performance. Higher ESL and ESR usually isn't what you want. To get over this manufacturers use a mix of the ceramic and aluminum electrolytic. Sometimes manufacturers will use tantalum to replace some ceramics and electrolytic. It all depends on the rating of the capacitors, but really the price of the capacitors they want to use and the amount of them. If you pay more you can get lower ESR and ESL capacitors, if you pay less you will need to use other methods to prevent performance issues. The most commen method is to use a mix of caps, however GB chose to flip the bill and just use their electrolytic, why? Because simply they can as their caps have very low ESR.

Now when a VRM works each phase provides some current and all that current is provided to the CPU as a whole, each phase however operates while the others are off, and so in a 6 phase VRM each phases is on for 1/6 of the time, however they switch on and off hundreds of thousands of times per second. In normal operation the inductors and capacitors work together to provide steady power to the CPU as the power is provided to the inductors, and the inductors to the cpu and capacitors. However if there is a big load, the VRM isn't prepared and will have to depend on the energy stored in the capacitors to take over the entire load while the rest of the VRM can respond. Also after a large event the VRM has to recover and depends on the capacitors to sink the extra energy. Basically the capacitor bank is slow and thus limits the system transient performance. Thus the characteristics of the capacitors used needs to be taken into consideration. A mix of capacitors needs to be used to make sure a few things happen. #1 that the output voltage doesn't deviate from what the designers want during a large load, #2 so that the power can be provided quickly enough #3 as much power as is needed can be provided and there are more things, but those are the three important ones for this conversation. The ESL and ESR are the two characteristics of the capacitors that affect their performance. On the ceramics one must minimize their ESL so that they can properly support the output voltage and make sure it doesn't deviate, and the electrolytics needs to have their ESR low enough to minimize the voltage drop from increased current. However you don't needs to use any electrolytics, take for example some volterra VRMs, they have little to no can type capacitors. You will also have boards on the other which will will have extremely well speced aluminum electrolytic which are in fact good enough to work without ceramics, such as these boards. These GB electrolytics have better ESR than the majority of tantalum capacitors, as so someone told me.

Perhaps ASRock is angry that they don't have any digital PWm supplier and are thus trying to make it seems like GB sucks lol.

FYI ceramics are cheap as hell, GB would put them on if they are needed. However it looks like they are not.

I think fasty explained it well enough.


----------



## Alpha Predator

I am also thinking about getting Gigabyte Z77

Looking into http://arc.com.au/pub.php?pid=43436&p=product OR

http://arc.com.au/pub.php?pid=43444&p=product

Is it worth extra $50?

Also whats the power phase on two board. Also have they fix cold boot bug. I had problem with getting 4.8Ghz OC on my ASROCK mobo.

I'll be forever thankful if you can answer my question.


----------



## bobn4burton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> The deal with some users reporting issues with random BSODs after loading optimized defaults. It is odd issues b/c it doesn't' happen during OCing, I just tell people to RMA their boards if they have odd issues like that. Also some users have said changing the BCLK to 100.00 gets rid of it, so GB is changing the default BCLK to a bit lower than it is now to make up for the 0.1% of CPUs that can't deal with a 0.7% increase in BCLK.


The default/spec for BCLK is 100.0 isn't it? So are you saying that the default BCLK setting that GB has been using is higher than 100.0? If so, what do they set the default to? And are they changing that default value with the different BIOS releases?

If that's the case, I know some CPU's can be very sensitive to a higher BCLK, while others will go to 103+ with no problems. So this would actually make sense if they had bumped this default value trying to get higher default scores...and yet have a decent amount of people with freeze/lock-ups because their particular cpu is sensitive to higher BCLK.


----------



## Rondik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> The default/spec for BCLK is 100.0 isn't it? So are you saying that the default BCLK setting that GB has been using is higher than 100.0? If so, what do they set the default to? And are they changing that default value with the different BIOS releases?
> If that's the case, I know some CPU's can be very sensitive to a higher BCLK, while others will go to 103+ with no problems. So this would actually make sense if they had bumped this default value trying to get higher default scores...and yet have a decent amount of people with freeze/lock-ups because their particular cpu is sensitive to higher BCLK.


According to cpu-z mine is at 100.9

I did not go into BIOS to verify but pretty sure that is what it set to and I am on bios F6 and I have not messed with that setting.

I guess I have been super lucky that I have not had one BSOD, lockup or any stability issues since I got the board, compared to many other threads I have seen on various forums and on newegg. To be honest if I had waited to buy my mobo and saw all these reports I am thinking I would have went a different route, but in the end I am happy with my UD5H, it does everything I want and more, and for the price is great.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Well, I believe my Prime95 large FFT test has been failing because my vcore was too low. What I don't understand is that I'd manually set vcore to 1.140 in BIOS and it would run at only 1.056v during testing. I set it back to auto and it now runs right around the default of 1.155 as you'd expect. Maybe adjusting the vcore by offset instead of manually typing in the value would be the way to go, I'll have to look into how to accomplish that. At auto the temps are a little bit high but still reasonable.


Try changing the vcore LLC to different settings so you can see the effect of droop and how to counter it with the "right" LLC setting. Some droop is not a bad thing, but obviously if you can't run stable then you need to make changes. The LLC on these boards is fabulous IMO and finally on Gigabyte boards we have both DVID & LLC working together (if you want to go that route).
As an exercise I proved that you can actually run a +0.00 DVID & get a stable x45 OC just tweaking the vcore LLC. However this didn't allow me to reach my lowest possible vcore. Check out LLC with the different settings and monitor the vcore under load with each and you'll see that it's a handy tool.
Or maybe I misunderstand you completely in which case disregard.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> The deal with some users reporting issues with random BSODs after loading optimized defaults. It is odd issues b/c it doesn't' happen during OCing, I just tell people to RMA their boards if they have odd issues like that. Also some users have said changing the BCLK to 100.00 gets rid of it, so GB is changing the default BCLK to a bit lower than it is now to make up for the 0.1% of CPUs that can't deal with a 0.7% increase in BCLK. I just tell people to manually set their vcore, change their BCLK, or OC. OC is the odd one, the issue doesn't' happen when OCed it seems. Thus GB is lowering the default BCLK back to closer to 100. GB did it that way to help stock benchmark scores, they only did it because some boards, i will not list the boards, will take all the CPU Core ratios to top instead of just a single core, thus making the other boards look bad. Now you can't see this or set this, but it will happen on a stock default load up, so GB isn't going to do that so they increase the BCLK slightly so the top clocks are a bit higher. The issues is that no one states what they can and should do, and they will do what they can as to not hurt stability. Some board makers will have the top turbo multiplier be one greater than Intel spec as well. All games, and caused by reviewers who don't want to compare correctly. Running a benchmark with turbo in itself wont give you very consistent results either.
> However freezing in the BIOS is a result of a unstable OC.
> I would not worry about the BSOD issue, a lot of users are not reporting it.
> I would get the X.
> 
> Which code?
> I actually didn't do that on purpose lol, it is supposed to be enabled.
> Now to Kitguru's sad attempt to get hits. LOL I mean if you don't know what kind of caps those are you really shouldn't ever comment on them like you know what is going on!!! haha it is too funny.
> First of all the GIGABYTE Z77 boards they have NO ISSUEs OCing at ALL. The GB boards surprise under LN2 too in pure frequency(seriously take it for a spin, many LN2 OCers use them), IMO bring it on, these boards have no issues with CPU OC like someone stated they heard a few pages back.
> As to the lack of multi-layer ceramic (MLCC) capacitors on the back of the board, there is a reason for why some board makers use are both types of capacitors, that reason is that part of their VRM needs the use of high frequency ceramics which have low ESR, while other VRMs don't because the ESR and speed of their VRMs are good enough without them. The capacitors in general act as large energy storage, in normal operation there are huge swings in current, and the rate at which that current can be provided to the CPU as it changes load states is extremely important. That is why there is an output capacitor bank. It can sink or supply power as needed. However the caps have to charge and they have to discharge, so in general two types of capacitors are used, ceramics which are extremely small are good at operating at high frequencies and have very low capacitance. Electrolytic ones are those that look like cans, they also have higher ESR as well as high capacitance ratings, they generally also don't operate at high frequencies.
> ESR=effective series resistance
> ESL=effective series inductance
> Basically just like MOSFETs(MOSFETs can be thought of as having capacitance and resistance), capacitors have parasitics which are characteristics one wants to minimize in the capacitor. Inductance and resistance are two very big ones, which hinder a capacitors performance. Higher ESL and ESR usually isn't what you want. To get over this manufacturers use a mix of the ceramic and aluminum electrolytic. Sometimes manufacturers will use tantalum to replace some ceramics and electrolytic. It all depends on the rating of the capacitors, but really the price of the capacitors they want to use and the amount of them. If you pay more you can get lower ESR and ESL capacitors, if you pay less you will need to use other methods to prevent performance issues. The most commen method is to use a mix of caps, however GB chose to flip the bill and just use their electrolytic, why? Because simply they can as their caps have very low ESR.
> Now when a VRM works each phase provides some current and all that current is provided to the CPU as a whole, each phase however operates while the others are off, and so in a 6 phase VRM each phases is on for 1/6 of the time, however they switch on and off hundreds of thousands of times per second. In normal operation the inductors and capacitors work together to provide steady power to the CPU as the power is provided to the inductors, and the inductors to the cpu and capacitors. However if there is a big load, the VRM isn't prepared and will have to depend on the energy stored in the capacitors to take over the entire load while the rest of the VRM can respond. Also after a large event the VRM has to recover and depends on the capacitors to sink the extra energy. Basically the capacitor bank is slow and thus limits the system transient performance. Thus the characteristics of the capacitors used needs to be taken into consideration. A mix of capacitors needs to be used to make sure a few things happen. #1 that the output voltage doesn't deviate from what the designers want during a large load, #2 so that the power can be provided quickly enough #3 as much power as is needed can be provided and there are more things, but those are the three important ones for this conversation. The ESL and ESR are the two characteristics of the capacitors that affect their performance. On the ceramics one must minimize their ESL so that they can properly support the output voltage and make sure it doesn't deviate, and the electrolytics needs to have their ESR low enough to minimize the voltage drop from increased current. However you don't needs to use any electrolytics, take for example some volterra VRMs, they have little to no can type capacitors. You will also have boards on the other which will will have extremely well speced aluminum electrolytic which are in fact good enough to work without ceramics, such as these boards. These GB electrolytics have better ESR than the majority of tantalum capacitors, as so someone told me.
> Perhaps ASRock is angry that they don't have any digital PWm supplier and are thus trying to make it seems like GB sucks lol.
> FYI ceramics are cheap as hell, GB would put them on if they are needed. However it looks like they are not.
> I think fasty explained it well enough.


Dude, Sin. How are you so incredible? Do you have a degree in EE? Man do you know your shi*!

Thanks for the great explanation.


----------



## goldeneye77

Hi all,

I've been lurking on here for a few days and just wanted to introduce myself and say thanks for all the invaluable information. I'm pretty capable when it comes to builds but overclocking is a new thing for me. Just purchased the UD5H and 3570K for my upcoming build and am looking forward to chatting some of you up about it in the days and weeks ahead.

By the way, I know a few of you on here were debating whether or not to take the plunge on IB -- just wanted to mention that tigerdirect.ca is selling the 3570K for $192.99 as of today -- just picked one up myself.


----------



## nimitz87

]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Well, I believe my Prime95 large FFT test has been failing because my vcore was too low. What I don't understand is that I'd manually set vcore to 1.140 in BIOS and it would run at only 1.056v during testing. I set it back to auto and it now runs right around the default of 1.155 as you'd expect. Maybe adjusting the vcore by offset instead of manually typing in the value would be the way to go, I'll have to look into how to accomplish that. At auto the temps are a little bit high but still reasonable.
> 
> 
> 
> Try changing the vcore LLC to different settings so you can see the effect of droop and how to counter it with the "right" LLC setting. Some droop is not a bad thing, but obviously if you can't run stable then you need to make changes. The LLC on these boards is fabulous IMO and finally on Gigabyte boards we have both DVID & LLC working together (if you want to go that route).
> As an exercise I proved that you can actually run a +0.00 DVID & get a stable x45 OC just tweaking the vcore LLC. However this didn't allow me to reach my lowest possible vcore. Check out LLC with the different settings and monitor the vcore under load with each and you'll see that it's a handy tool.
> Or maybe I misunderstand you completely in which case disregard.
Click to expand...

Got any more info on running offset @ 45x?

I'm @ 4.5ghz

running 1.310 vcore in the BIOS

1.308 @ 100% load in CPU-z

LLC on extreme

Max temps 67*

just passed the 10 hour mark in prime95 blend using 90% of available RAM.

Definitely interested in running offset if it can net me the same clock with lower voltage.

[/URL


----------



## KillrBuckeye

I've noticed that CPUID HWMonitor seems to be reporting VTT instead of VCore on the UD5H. This had me quite confused as I was monitoring this value trying to figure out what the various VCore options in the BIOS were doing. CPU-Z seems to report VCore correctly, though.

If I'm trying to reduce my temperatures, what is good starting point for PLL voltage? It's 1.8V on "Auto", so should I start with something like 1.7V? Also, is there any reason to play with the CPU Vtt LLC, or should I just stick with the VCore LLC for now?


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillrBuckeye*
> 
> I've noticed that CPUID HWMonitor seems to be reporting VTT instead of VCore on the UD5H. This had me quite confused as I was monitoring this value trying to figure out what the various VCore options in the BIOS were doing. CPU-Z seems to report VCore correctly, though.
> If I'm trying to reduce my temperatures, what is good starting point for PLL voltage? It's 1.8V on "Auto", so should I start with something like 1.7V? Also, is there any reason to play with the CPU Vtt LLC, or should I just stick with the VCore LLC for now?


I'm on 1.71 PLL

Chad


----------



## bobn4burton

OK...I just ordered a UD5H with 3770k. Hopefully things go well and I don't regret getting the UD5H over the P8Z77-V...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> ]
> Got any more info on running offset @ 45x?
> I'm @ 4.5ghz
> running 1.310 vcore in the BIOS
> 1.308 @ 100% load in CPU-z
> LLC on extreme
> 
> Max temps 67*
> just passed the 10 hour mark in prime95 blend using 90% of available RAM.
> Definitely interested in running offset if it can net me the same clock with lower voltage.


One thing that may get the voltage down now is to use a lower LLC,
But to use DVID Just set vcore to "normal" then you can type in the offset. Start out with something like +.010, and set LLC to High. Depending on how your cpu reacts from there you can either up the DVID or up the LLC. Those settings are good enough for a stable x45 clock for me, but every cpu is different. My vcore max 1.260-1.272 depending on how I set it up.
I usually monitor with HWINFO, there is 32 & 64bit versions and seems to respond to vcore changes faster than some other monitoring programs. All I run is the sensor panel and I configure it so it only shows what I want it to so I can fit it all onscreen.
EDIT: I also use Real Temp to monitor temps.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> One thing that may get the voltage down now is to use a lower LLC,
> But to use DVID Just set vcore to "normal" then you can type in the offset. Start out with something like +.010, and set LLC to High. Depending on how your cpu reacts from there you can either up the DVID or up the LLC. Those settings are good enough for a stable x45 clock for me, but every cpu is different. My vcore max 1.260-1.272 depending on how I set it up.
> I usually monitor with HWINFO, there is 32 & 64bit versions and seems to respond to vcore changes faster than some other monitoring programs. All I run is the sensor panel and I configure it so it only shows what I want it to so I can fit it all onscreen.
> EDIT: I also use Real Temp to monitor temps.


gotcha, HWmonitor doesn't seem to work for me?

where you located in FL? I'm in fort lauderdale area


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Try changing the vcore LLC to different settings so you can see the effect of droop and how to counter it with the "right" LLC setting. Some droop is not a bad thing, but obviously if you can't run stable then you need to make changes. The LLC on these boards is fabulous IMO and finally on Gigabyte boards we have both DVID & LLC working together (if you want to go that route).
> As an exercise I proved that you can actually run a +0.00 DVID & get a stable x45 OC just tweaking the vcore LLC. However this didn't allow me to reach my lowest possible vcore. Check out LLC with the different settings and monitor the vcore under load with each and you'll see that it's a handy tool.
> Or maybe I misunderstand you completely in which case disregard.


I'm sure your comments apply to my situation, I don't understand how any of that works but I will research it. You've given me a starting point so thanks, hopefully it'll lead to some good results. For now I've given up on manually setting vcore cause it seems to give you a voltage much lower than you entered, so looking into these alternate methods is where I'm headed next.


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I'm sure your comments apply to my situation, I don't understand how any of that works but I will research it. You've given me a starting point so thanks, hopefully it'll lead to some good results. For now I've given up on manually setting vcore cause it seems to give you a voltage much lower than you entered, so looking into these alternate methods is where I'm headed next.


If you don't want any droop during load just set the LLC to turbo or extreme. At extreme you shouldn't experience any droop at all. If you put 1.200V it'll be 1.200V at all times. I have mine on turbo. For a 1.100V setting CPUZ reports 1.092V under load.

In your case it should help with your stability if they voltage is dropping too much for the chip to stay stable during load.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> gotcha, HWmonitor doesn't seem to work for me?
> where you located in FL? I'm in fort lauderdale area


Have you tried HWINFO? It gets regular updates. http://www.hwinfo.com/
I'm in Suwannee County, near Live Oak for last 30 years, but Lakeland is my home town.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpha Predator*
> 
> I am also thinking about getting Gigabyte Z77
> Looking into http://arc.com.au/pub.php?pid=43436&p=product OR
> http://arc.com.au/pub.php?pid=43444&p=product
> Is it worth extra $50?
> Also whats the power phase on two board. Also have they fix cold boot bug. I had problem with getting 4.8Ghz OC on my ASROCK mobo.
> I'll be forever thankful if you can answer my question.


Well the GB boards have no problem giving you the best OC out of your CPU. I would get the UD3H over the D3H if not only because of all the OC features you gain, such as the buttons, the voltage read points, the POST code, the extra power connectors. It is a much better board for high OCes. However the 4-pin power connector wont hurt your OC>
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> The default/spec for BCLK is 100.0 isn't it? So are you saying that the default BCLK setting that GB has been using is higher than 100.0? If so, what do they set the default to? And are they changing that default value with the different BIOS releases?
> If that's the case, I know some CPU's can be very sensitive to a higher BCLK, while others will go to 103+ with no problems. So this would actually make sense if they had bumped this default value trying to get higher default scores...and yet have a decent amount of people with freeze/lock-ups because their particular cpu is sensitive to higher BCLK.


Default spec is 100.00 with a +/- certain percentage range, something like .1-.2%. in retro spec i actually think it is +/- 5-7% for OC, so 107mhz. But i can push 115 on all the GB boards







, that is some fine tuning. At stock there is a BCLK swing from the clock gen inside the chipset which naturally occurs, that is why you se ethe BCLK go up and down 0.03mhz somtimes. As the chipset provides the base clock, and its clock gen varies up and down. As for the new BIOS updates which should release soon. when the BCLK is set to auto it will be closer to 100.00. Right now if you go int on the BIOS change change it from auto to manual ti will set 100.00 exactly, on auto it gives you a slight boost.

The lockups, honestly mate, if you knew how many boards have sold since day 1 you would think the percentage of people complaining would be very small. Also the BSOD thing is also related to software, which is pretty odd. If you don't have windows 7 updated then you can be at risk, which i think accounts for many of these issues. Also other boards have this issues as well, their just aren't many buyers compared to the GB boards, because of their price and the price of the competitor, many more users are buying GB this round than last. I have seen reports from the asus P8Z77-V series of the idle BSOD, I actually saw one on these forums, but i can't find the post again, perhaps it was in their mega thread. I had this happen with a 2500K of mine on one of my UD5Hs, however I did a lot of testing, the idle BSOD after optimized defaults were loaded only occurs at stock and is totally software related, and I found out doesn't occur in Windows XP. My issue was that my Windows 7 wasn't updated at all...... So there can be two problems, one software related and one with the BCLK OC that GB provides at stock, the BCLK will be taken care of very soon. The software one tho, that is up to the user.

However if you have this issue it could also be that there are a batch of early boards that exhibit this, in that case RMA the board and GB will send you one without issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> According to cpu-z mine is at 100.9
> I did not go into BIOS to verify but pretty sure that is what it set to and I am on bios F6 and I have not messed with that setting.
> I guess I have been super lucky that I have not had one BSOD, lockup or any stability issues since I got the board, compared to many other threads I have seen on various forums and on newegg. To be honest if I had waited to buy my mobo and saw all these reports I am thinking I would have went a different route, but in the end I am happy with my UD5H, it does everything I want and more, and for the price is great.


You aren't super lucky, you are just part of the 98% who don't have the issue at all. GB knows what is causing 90% of the BSODs at stock and that is the BCLK, so thus in newer BIOS updates the BCLK will be closer to what ASUS has set, i think 100.1 or 100.3 instead of 100.7. You wont see many more people complain of it.

THere is also this, which has been bothering me, a lot of people have degraded sandy bridge CPUs, some CPUs especially sandy which degrades super quickly, loses its ability to be stable in stock conditions. THis could have happened to my 2500K, but i doubt it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Dude, Sin. How are you so incredible? Do you have a degree in EE? Man do you know your shi*!
> Thanks for the great explanation.


No I am not an EE, i just had a basic education in circuit engineering, like 100 level courses. You can read this: http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/398938/INTERSIL/ISL6366.html a lot of datasheets for PWMs are very informative. That one i linked has a VRM design guide in it lol, but that is Intersil and analog PWm maker, but the PWM is only a chip, the rest of the VRM should be the same for digital and analog.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> ]
> Got any more info on running offset @ 45x?
> I'm @ 4.5ghz
> running 1.310 vcore in the BIOS
> 1.308 @ 100% load in CPU-z
> LLC on extreme
> 
> Max temps 67*
> just passed the 10 hour mark in prime95 blend using 90% of available RAM.
> Definitely interested in running offset if it can net me the same clock with lower voltage.
> [/URL


Offset give you lower idle vcore, your load vcore will be the same or higher as you don't actually know what your VID is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> OK...I just ordered a UD5H with 3770k. Hopefully things go well and I don't regret getting the UD5H over the P8Z77-V...


You wont.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I'm sure your comments apply to my situation, I don't understand how any of that works but I will research it. You've given me a starting point so thanks, hopefully it'll lead to some good results. For now I've given up on manually setting vcore cause it seems to give you a voltage much lower than you entered, so looking into these alternate methods is where I'm headed next.


You need to set LLC man, you have to for Intel CPU OC, is it like a requirment. Some boards have LLC set on auto to a high level, here ithink if you set DVID LLC is engaged at a medium level.

Also you guys aren't measuring from the read points I see, please look below: THis is voltage comparison of CPU-z(Fake) vs digital multimeter(real), you can see extreme is actually raising your voltage while cpuz is reporting lower vcore. Please watch out for this, cpuz sucks for voltage readings, that is why GB put on voltage read points. Digital multimeters are so simple to use, they cost nothing($5-$10) and they are hundreds of times more accurate than software, in all cases on all boards. Depending on the LLC leve it can be okay to use CPUz or it might not be.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMantis24*
> 
> If you don't want any droop during load just set the LLC to turbo or extreme. At extreme you shouldn't experience any droop at all. If you put 1.200V it'll be 1.200V at all times. I have mine on turbo. For a 1.100V setting CPUZ reports 1.092V under load.
> In your case it should help with your stability if they voltage is dropping too much for the chip to stay stable during load.


That sounds like just what I need, I'm gonna try this. Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Also you guys aren't measuring from the read points I see, please look below: THis is voltage comparison of CPU-z(Fake) vs digital multimeter(real), you can see extreme is actually raising your voltage while cpuz is reporting lower vcore. Please watch out for this, cpuz sucks for voltage readings, that is why GB put on voltage read points. Digital multimeters are so simple to use, they cost nothing($5-$10) and they are hundreds of times more accurate than software, in all cases on all boards. Depending on the LLC leve it can be okay to use CPUz or it might not be.


You're right man, I just found an old multimeter and checked my vcore after setting LLC to Turbo and vcore to 1.140. In CPU-Z its showing 1.116 and in the multimeter its 1.135-8. Don't trust CPU-Z vcore! I have noticed that in CPU-Z the vcore voltage always drops when under load and then goes back up while idle.


----------



## mandrix

Yah, I'm getting curious how accurate some of these software programs are. Guess I need to drag my bench meter out of the shop and set it up.


----------



## ChrisB17

Uhg I am trying to OC my new CPU in sig rig and the bios freezes.


----------



## Sin0822

yea your OC is unstable, the BIOS puts a load on the CPU itself, so you gotta raise the VCore. If you notice in BIOS how the CPU temp is higher than at idle in windows. UEFI puts a load on the CPU, but then again BIOS does as well. Are you using the latest BIOS?


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea your OC is unstable, the BIOS puts a load on the CPU itself, so you gotta raise the VCore. If you notice in BIOS how the CPU temp is higher than at idle in windows. UEFI puts a load on the CPU, but then again BIOS does as well. Are you using the latest BIOS?


Ok I raised Vcore and that issue disapered. I am trying to get 4.5ghz with my 16gb DDR3-1866 ram, But I think I need to mess with VCCIO or something, But Ivy Bridge is new to me, Can you suggest what they should be set at to get my ram and cpu to be somewhat stable?


----------



## Sin0822

you shouldn't need more VCCIO at all.

you can try it though, VTT at 1.195 and IMC at 1.190, see if that helps. it really shouldn't make a difference.

Did you set XMP?


----------



## ChrisB17

Yea I set XMP and got a BSOD starting windows.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I am going to have to OC this 3570K sooner ot latter. SC2 really can bring any CPU down. I notice lag now comapre to 2500K @ 4.8Ghz


----------



## ChrisB17

It seems the higher (Not alot) I raise my vcore the longer Prime runs.


----------



## KillrBuckeye

Thanks to the information in this thread, I managed to run Prime for 2+ hours at 4.5 GHz by running VCore in "normal" mode with DVID of 0.0005 (0.0 was unstable), PLL voltage of 1.74, and LLC set to Turbo! My max core temperatures according to Core Temp were 86/*95*/90/85. That's pretty high, but the spike to 95C was short-lived. Most of the time temps were hovering in the high 80s. I might try backing of the PLL or LLC to see if I can bring down temps a bit.

I touched the fins of my Hyper 212 Evo while testing and they were a bit warm, but definitely not what I'd call hot. Should the heatsink be hot to the touch if properly seated? I also noticed that in my haste to put the system together I didn't plug in the intake fan. I plugged it into the SYS_FAN header, but it spins pretty slow relative to my exhaust fan, and it didn't really affect temperatures significantly. I think I need more intake air flow.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillrBuckeye*
> 
> Thanks to the information in this thread, I managed to run Prime for 2+ hours at 4.5 GHz by running VCore in "normal" mode with DVID of 0.0005 (0.0 was unstable), PLL voltage of 1.74, and LLC set to Turbo! My max core temperatures according to Core Temp were 86/*95*/90/85. That's pretty high, but the spike to 95C was short-lived. Most of the time temps were hovering in the high 80s. I might try backing of the PLL or LLC to see if I can bring down temps a bit.
> 
> I touched the fins of my Hyper 212 Evo while testing and they were a bit warm, but definitely not what I'd call hot. Should the heatsink be hot to the touch if properly seated? I also noticed that in my haste to put the system together I didn't plug in the intake fan. I plugged it into the SYS_FAN header, but it spins pretty slow relative to my exhaust fan, and it didn't really affect temperatures significantly. I think I need more intake air flow.


Your DVID is based on your chip's VID which is what decides your auto/dynamic Vcore, and it's a little different on each chip. So your offset of +0.005 doesn't tell us what your actual Vcore is, and it might be real high based on the temps.

For example, if I set Turbo LLC and that same DVID at 4.5 offset my Vcore is 1.23v---I bet that's not what you get.

To your case cooling; just don't use the case. Not until you know how well you cooler works on its own, which you probably have no idea about right now.


----------



## unleaded91

Just pulled the trigger on the z77x ud5h and a 3770k from tiger. I will be asking questions soon

This club helped me decide on which mobo to get for ivy. I've been a long Asus user until my last RMA with them turned sour..So I ditched them and went with the z77x-UD5H.. Not to mention the awesome Gigabyte RMA experience!









I am coming from an i7 920 so this will be a great upgrade for me!!


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Now to Kitguru's sad attempt to get hits. LOL I mean if you don't know what kind of caps those are you really shouldn't ever comment on them like you know what is going on!!! haha it is too funny.
> 
> First of all the GIGABYTE Z77 boards they have NO ISSUEs OCing at ALL. The GB boards surprise under LN2 too in pure frequency(seriously take it for a spin, many LN2 OCers use them), IMO bring it on, these boards have no issues with CPU OC like someone stated they heard a few pages back.
> 
> As to the lack of multi-layer ceramic (MLCC) capacitors on the back of the board, there is a reason for why some board makers use are both types of capacitors, that reason is that part of their VRM needs the use of high frequency ceramics which have low ESR, while other VRMs don't because the ESR and speed of their VRMs are good enough without them. The capacitors in general act as large energy storage, in normal operation there are huge swings in current, and the rate at which that current can be provided to the CPU as it changes load states is extremely important. That is why there is an output capacitor bank. It can sink or supply power as needed. However the caps have to charge and they have to discharge, so in general two types of capacitors are used, ceramics which are extremely small are good at operating at high frequencies and have very low capacitance. Electrolytic ones are those that look like cans, they also have higher ESR as well as high capacitance ratings, they generally also don't operate at high frequencies.
> 
> ESR=effective series resistance
> ESL=effective series inductance
> 
> Basically just like MOSFETs(MOSFETs can be thought of as having capacitance and resistance), capacitors have parasitics which are characteristics one wants to minimize in the capacitor. Inductance and resistance are two very big ones, which hinder a capacitors performance. Higher ESL and ESR usually isn't what you want. To get over this manufacturers use a mix of the ceramic and aluminum electrolytic. Sometimes manufacturers will use tantalum to replace some ceramics and electrolytic. It all depends on the rating of the capacitors, but really the price of the capacitors they want to use and the amount of them. If you pay more you can get lower ESR and ESL capacitors, if you pay less you will need to use other methods to prevent performance issues. The most commen method is to use a mix of caps, however GB chose to flip the bill and just use their electrolytic, why? Because simply they can as their caps have very low ESR.
> 
> Now when a VRM works each phase provides some current and all that current is provided to the CPU as a whole, each phase however operates while the others are off, and so in a 6 phase VRM each phases is on for 1/6 of the time, however they switch on and off hundreds of thousands of times per second. In normal operation the inductors and capacitors work together to provide steady power to the CPU as the power is provided to the inductors, and the inductors to the cpu and capacitors. However if there is a big load, the VRM isn't prepared and will have to depend on the energy stored in the capacitors to take over the entire load while the rest of the VRM can respond. Also after a large event the VRM has to recover and depends on the capacitors to sink the extra energy. Basically the capacitor bank is slow and thus limits the system transient performance. Thus the characteristics of the capacitors used needs to be taken into consideration. A mix of capacitors needs to be used to make sure a few things happen. #1 that the output voltage doesn't deviate from what the designers want during a large load, #2 so that the power can be provided quickly enough #3 as much power as is needed can be provided and there are more things, but those are the three important ones for this conversation. The ESL and ESR are the two characteristics of the capacitors that affect their performance. On the ceramics one must minimize their ESL so that they can properly support the output voltage and make sure it doesn't deviate, and the electrolytics needs to have their ESR low enough to minimize the voltage drop from increased current. However you don't needs to use any electrolytics, take for example some volterra VRMs, they have little to no can type capacitors. You will also have boards on the other which will will have extremely well speced aluminum electrolytic which are in fact good enough to work without ceramics, such as these boards. These GB electrolytics have better ESR than the majority of tantalum capacitors, as so someone told me.
> 
> Perhaps ASRock is angry that they don't have any digital PWm supplier and are thus trying to make it seems like GB sucks lol.
> 
> FYI ceramics are cheap as hell, GB would put them on if they are needed. However it looks like they are not.
> 
> I think fasty explained it well enough.


+1 REP
Very good and comprehensive technical review.









I still have one question:
What's the explanation for the mainboard's higher power consumption (UD5H)?

*Here* from an older review.

Shouldn't a highly efficient vrm solution consume less than the other?

Are the things changed with the one of the latest bios?

I don't really mind since I still however love the Gigabyte products but what should I explain to the others (on our Italian 3d's) thinking of the UD5H's less efficient power consumption as an inferior vrm issue?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


What voltage is the BIOS set to when getting those readings? Just so I can kinda scale those numbers with my voltages. I'm using 1.33v in BIOS, extreme LLC, 1.5 PLL @ 4.7GHz (47x100)


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> One thing that may get the voltage down now is to use a lower LLC,
> But to use DVID Just set vcore to "normal" then you can type in the offset. Start out with something like +.010, and set LLC to High. Depending on how your cpu reacts from there you can either up the DVID or up the LLC. Those settings are good enough for a stable x45 clock for me, but every cpu is different. My vcore max 1.260-1.272 depending on how I set it up.
> I usually monitor with HWINFO, there is 32 & 64bit versions and seems to respond to vcore changes faster than some other monitoring programs. All I run is the sensor panel and I configure it so it only shows what I want it to so I can fit it all onscreen.
> EDIT: I also use Real Temp to monitor temps.


setting LLC to high or turbo and using +.010 gives me a vcore in cpu-z of 1.38 going to get a multi meter today on the way home from work done with programs after seeing they aren't accurate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Have you tried HWINFO? It gets regular updates. http://www.hwinfo.com/
> I'm in Suwannee County, near Live Oak for last 30 years, but Lakeland is my home town.


Suwannee is very nice, use to go camping there on the river.

how do I remove stuff I don't want from the sensors page of hwinfo?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Well the GB boards have no problem giving you the best OC out of your CPU. I would get the UD3H over the D3H if not only because of all the OC features you gain, such as the buttons, the voltage read points, the POST code, the extra power connectors. It is a much better board for high OCes. However the 4-pin power connector wont hurt your OC>
> Default spec is 100.00 with a +/- certain percentage range, something like .1-.2%. in retro spec i actually think it is +/- 5-7% for OC, so 107mhz. But i can push 115 on all the GB boards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , that is some fine tuning. At stock there is a BCLK swing from the clock gen inside the chipset which naturally occurs, that is why you se ethe BCLK go up and down 0.03mhz somtimes. As the chipset provides the base clock, and its clock gen varies up and down. As for the new BIOS updates which should release soon. when the BCLK is set to auto it will be closer to 100.00. Right now if you go int on the BIOS change change it from auto to manual ti will set 100.00 exactly, on auto it gives you a slight boost.
> The lockups, honestly mate, if you knew how many boards have sold since day 1 you would think the percentage of people complaining would be very small. Also the BSOD thing is also related to software, which is pretty odd. If you don't have windows 7 updated then you can be at risk, which i think accounts for many of these issues. Also other boards have this issues as well, their just aren't many buyers compared to the GB boards, because of their price and the price of the competitor, many more users are buying GB this round than last. I have seen reports from the asus P8Z77-V series of the idle BSOD, I actually saw one on these forums, but i can't find the post again, perhaps it was in their mega thread. I had this happen with a 2500K of mine on one of my UD5Hs, however I did a lot of testing, the idle BSOD after optimized defaults were loaded only occurs at stock and is totally software related, and I found out doesn't occur in Windows XP. My issue was that my Windows 7 wasn't updated at all...... So there can be two problems, one software related and one with the BCLK OC that GB provides at stock, the BCLK will be taken care of very soon. The software one tho, that is up to the user.
> However if you have this issue it could also be that there are a batch of early boards that exhibit this, in that case RMA the board and GB will send you one without issue.
> You aren't super lucky, you are just part of the 98% who don't have the issue at all. GB knows what is causing 90% of the BSODs at stock and that is the BCLK, so thus in newer BIOS updates the BCLK will be closer to what ASUS has set, i think 100.1 or 100.3 instead of 100.7. You wont see many more people complain of it.
> THere is also this, which has been bothering me, a lot of people have degraded sandy bridge CPUs, some CPUs especially sandy which degrades super quickly, loses its ability to be stable in stock conditions. THis could have happened to my 2500K, but i doubt it.
> No I am not an EE, i just had a basic education in circuit engineering, like 100 level courses. You can read this: http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/398938/INTERSIL/ISL6366.html a lot of datasheets for PWMs are very informative. That one i linked has a VRM design guide in it lol, but that is Intersil and analog PWm maker, but the PWM is only a chip, the rest of the VRM should be the same for digital and analog.
> Offset give you lower idle vcore, your load vcore will be the same or higher as you don't actually know what your VID is.
> You wont.
> You need to set LLC man, you have to for Intel CPU OC, is it like a requirment. Some boards have LLC set on auto to a high level, here ithink if you set DVID LLC is engaged at a medium level.
> Also you guys aren't measuring from the read points I see, please look below: THis is voltage comparison of CPU-z(Fake) vs digital multimeter(real), you can see extreme is actually raising your voltage while cpuz is reporting lower vcore. Please watch out for this, cpuz sucks for voltage readings, that is why GB put on voltage read points. Digital multimeters are so simple to use, they cost nothing($5-$10) and they are hundreds of times more accurate than software, in all cases on all boards. Depending on the LLC leve it can be okay to use CPUz or it might not be.


great info going to grab a multi meter and test it out myself, I'm pretty happy with my 1.308 (cpu-z) with temps under 70 @ load.

should I try and mess with offset, I still don't really understand it fully, or the full benefits.


----------



## KillrBuckeye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Your DVID is based on your chip's VID which is what decides your auto/dynamic Vcore, and it's a little different on each chip. So your offset of +0.005 doesn't tell us what your actual Vcore is, and it might be real high based on the temps.
> For example, if I set Turbo LLC and that same DVID at 4.5 offset my Vcore is 1.23v---I bet that's not what you get.
> To your case cooling; just don't use the case. Not until you know how well you cooler works on its own, which you probably have no idea about right now.


Sorry, I meant to include the VCore as reported by CPU-Z. It fluctuates between 1.224 and 1.236V under full load. Unfortunately I don't have time to remove everything from the case to see what my temps look like. I'll probably invest in some nice, quiet case fans. My exhaust fan pushes a lot of air but it's pretty whiny and lately it has been driving me nuts. Any recommendations for nice, quiet 120mm fans?


----------



## Xenon64

Hello all,

I have just put together my rig, along with the UD5H, and I'm running into a problem where the mobo will recognize my 1TB HDD in the BIOS, but not my Mushkin 128GB SSD. I have made sure the SATA cables are connected, as well as the power connector from the power supply, but to no avail. I don't believe there is a difference between the blue SATA cables and the black ones, just the ports where they are plugged in.

I really want both drives recognized because I want to install Windows on the SSD.

The motherboard BIOS is not updated at all, this is a stock mobo. TO be honest, I had to remove my graphics card in order to even get the BIOS to show on my monitor.

Any help to get my SSD recognized would be awesome!

Thank you!


----------



## Snakes

Got some interesting results from my LLC experiment. When I had LLC on Auto, vcore manually set to 1.135v, 40x multiplier I was failing Prime95 Large FFT within 4 hours. Now with LLC on Extreme, vcore 1.135v, 40x multiplier I can do Large FFT for 12 hours. What's strange is that I tested the vcore with a multimeter and on load it was a fairly consistent 1.150v so I wasn't getting the temperature benefit of the lowered vcore. On idle it was 1.140v. I thought that raising your LLC was supposed to make the vcore consistent with your manual setting? This is with all other settings on default except for Intel Turbo Boost is disabled. I believe I was still about 5C lower than if I had vcore and LLC on Auto so I am making a little progress.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenon64*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have just put together my rig, along with the UD5H, and I'm running into a problem where the mobo will recognize my 1TB HDD in the BIOS, but not my Mushkin 128GB SSD. I have made sure the SATA cables are connected, as well as the power connector from the power supply, but to no avail. I don't believe there is a difference between the blue SATA cables and the black ones, just the ports where they are plugged in.
> I really want both drives recognized because I want to install Windows on the SSD.
> The motherboard BIOS is not updated at all, this is a stock mobo. TO be honest, I had to remove my graphics card in order to even get the BIOS to show on my monitor.
> Any help to get my SSD recognized would be awesome!
> Thank you!


Is the SSD showing under ATA Port Information on the System page of the BIOS?

Crap, I wasn't thinking, sorry for double posting yet again.


----------



## Xenon64

No, it isn't showing at all under ATA Port information on the system page on the BIOS.

I'm thinking it may be something dumb, like I may have plugged a SATA power connector in, but there is no power going into it...I don't know!


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenon64*
> 
> No, it isn't showing at all under ATA Port information on the system page on the BIOS.
> I'm thinking it may be something dumb, like I may have plugged a SATA power connector in, but there is no power going into it...I don't know!


I can't help you then, I had a thing where my SSD was showing under Info but not in Boot priority and I figured out that you have to set your preferred SSD/HDD under Hard Drive BBS Priorities for it to show as a boot option. Thought that could be your issue, hope you get it figured out before long.


----------



## ChrisB17

Is there any way to get the vcore to drop when the cpu clock speed drops when in idle? My CPU is running 1.27 vcore 24/7 even when it is idle and downclocked to 1600mhz


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenon64*
> 
> No, it isn't showing at all under ATA Port information on the system page on the BIOS.
> I'm thinking it may be something dumb, like I may have plugged a SATA power connector in, but there is no power going into it...I don't know!


I had my ssd disappear on me once, there is a setting in the bios I changed and it showed up. I'll let you know in a few hours when I get home. Also, do you have the SATA set to AHCI?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Is there any way to get the vcore to drop when the cpu clock speed drops when in idle? My CPU is running 1.27 vcore 24/7 even when it is idle and downclocked to 1600mhz


You have to use dynamic vcore for the voltage to scale with the clock speed. Set your vcore to "normal" which will unlock the dynamic option right under it. What you want to do with that is add a little bit of voltage, just enough to keep your chip stable. It adds however much voltage you select on top of the chip's VID so if you add too much the voltage will be too high. I've seen a few people with your chip in the past couple pages using Dynamic voltage, maybe you can get an idea of how much you want there. I have SB so mine is a little different.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillrBuckeye*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Your DVID is based on your chip's VID which is what decides your auto/dynamic Vcore, and it's a little different on each chip. So your offset of +0.005 doesn't tell us what your actual Vcore is, and it might be real high based on the temps.
> For example, if I set Turbo LLC and that same DVID at 4.5 offset my Vcore is 1.23v---I bet that's not what you get.
> To your case cooling; just don't use the case. Not until you know how well you cooler works on its own, which you probably have no idea about right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I meant to include the VCore as reported by CPU-Z. It fluctuates between 1.224 and 1.236V under full load. Unfortunately I don't have time to remove everything from the case to see what my temps look like. I'll probably invest in some nice, quiet case fans. My exhaust fan pushes a lot of air but it's pretty whiny and lately it has been driving me nuts. Any recommendations for nice, quiet 120mm fans?
Click to expand...

Oh, then 1.23v sounds pretty normal for that speed.

Is it hot in there? You might have an issue with the 212, or case airflow. Open the case and leave it on it's side for an hour of Prime. If it's not any better then pull off your cooler, check your paste coverage and reapply with a little bit less than pea-sized blob.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Is there any way to get the vcore to drop when the cpu clock speed drops when in idle? My CPU is running 1.27 vcore 24/7 even when it is idle and downclocked to 1600mhz


yes ,that's what Offset Mode will do (see the link in my sig)


----------



## Xenon64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I had my ssd disappear on me once, there is a setting in the bios I changed and it showed up. I'll let you know in a few hours when I get home. Also, do you have the SATA set to AHCI?


Yes, it is set to AHCI! Thank you for the help!


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> No. It doesn't control PWM and needs a +20 degree offset to the core temp readings.


What other programs are you using to measure temps?

BTW, speedfan is working for me. You have to go to advanced, select IT8728F, and set pwm mode to software controlled.


----------



## samwiches

I know. All that does is stop my fans.

What do you have for BIOS settings?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> +1 REP
> Very good and comprehensive technical review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have one question:
> What's the explanation for the mainboard's higher power consumption (UD5H)?
> *Here* from an older review.
> Shouldn't a highly efficient vrm solution consume less than the other?
> Are the things changed with the one of the latest bios?
> I don't really mind since I still however love the Gigabyte products but what should I explain to the others (on our Italian 3d's) thinking of the UD5H's less efficient power consumption as an inferior vrm issue?


Well let's consider this, In the USA at least, the UD5H is a freaking loaded motherboard for the price, it is hard to find a board with more features, so many little ICs, so many power consuming chipsets, there is VIA controllers for 1394A, so many extra SATA controllers from marvell, dual NICs which aren't light on power either. Now here is where the UD5H set's itself apart from all the other boards.... get ready for it, it has *two on-board audio line-drivers,* which are amplifiers!!!! if those don't use power then your sound wouldn't sound good. Now Maximus 5 Gene, just is a simple ALC898 like the UD5H's ALC898, but the M5G has no amps, just more standard capacitors which don't consume more power.

Also the less phase count you have the higher efficiency you will have. What manufacturers like to hide is that higher phase count=higher number of switching components=lower efficiency. So the 6 phase UD3H will have higher efficiency as the 12 phase UD5H. Other than that the switching frequency has the largest impact, and on the uD3H and UD5H is it set to around 300khz which is pretty low. I know it doesn't need to be increased under OC, but on some other boards it probably is increased.

What is interesting is that you can clearly see how bad MSI's VRM design is, your best board should be getting the highest power consumption if you use the same phase quality throughout your line, I am pretty sure the Maximus 5 Gene uses same VRm quality as the P8Z77 line, thus making its 8 phases more efficient under idle conditions as there is lower phase count. THis is evident in the GB boards as well, as the UD3H is higher phase quality but lower phase count as the UD5H, but same type of parts and arrangement, with minor difference in MOSFETs to make there a big difference in power consumption.

Also there are 3 MOSFETs per phase, while this increase the number of switching components, it also helps temperatures and power output greatly as well, these VRMs are built for highest performance. If you want good effieicny, then just run it

BTW maybe tell your friends to protest for your reviewers to buy two of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999227 modify them, and use them to measure CPU power consumption off the 12v input for the motherboard, that is how I do it :0 and that is the only way you can start to conclude on VRm efficiency
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> It seems the higher (Not alot) I raise my vcore the longer Prime runs.


lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Yea I set XMP and got a BSOD starting windows.


I fyou disable XMp no? Try setting VDIMM after setting XMP, can i have the make of your memory?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unleaded91*
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on the z77x ud5h and a 3770k from tiger. I will be asking questions soon
> This club helped me decide on which mobo to get for ivy. I've been a long Asus user until my last RMA with them turned sour..So I ditched them and went with the z77x-UD5H.. Not to mention the awesome Gigabyte RMA experience!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am coming from an i7 920 so this will be a great upgrade for me!!


You will have fun.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> What voltage is the BIOS set to when getting those readings? Just so I can kinda scale those numbers with my voltages. I'm using 1.33v in BIOS, extreme LLC, 1.5 PLL @ 4.7GHz (47x100)


1.4v i believe, sorry. You should have more raise with extreme and less droop with the other settings than mine, but very small amount difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenon64*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have just put together my rig, along with the UD5H, and I'm running into a problem where the mobo will recognize my 1TB HDD in the BIOS, but not my Mushkin 128GB SSD. I have made sure the SATA cables are connected, as well as the power connector from the power supply, but to no avail. I don't believe there is a difference between the blue SATA cables and the black ones, just the ports where they are plugged in.
> I really want both drives recognized because I want to install Windows on the SSD.
> The motherboard BIOS is not updated at all, this is a stock mobo. TO be honest, I had to remove my graphics card in order to even get the BIOS to show on my monitor.
> Any help to get my SSD recognized would be awesome!
> Thank you!


Try one at a time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Got some interesting results from my LLC experiment. When I had LLC on Auto, vcore manually set to 1.135v, 40x multiplier I was failing Prime95 Large FFT within 4 hours. Now with LLC on Extreme, vcore 1.135v, 40x multiplier I can do Large FFT for 12 hours. What's strange is that I tested the vcore with a multimeter and on load it was a fairly consistent 1.150v so I wasn't getting the temperature benefit of the lowered vcore. On idle it was 1.140v. I thought that raising your LLC was supposed to make the vcore consistent with your manual setting? This is with all other settings on default except for Intel Turbo Boost is disabled. I believe I was still about 5C lower than if I had vcore and LLC on Auto so I am making a little progress.


LLC is the reverse of drooping under load, it reduces that drop under load. Basically there is an equation, and the slope in that equation is what LLC controls. The equation is for drop of voltage under load. So basically the slope increases until the line is straight, and then keeps going one step so you can basically rise under load at voltage below 1.5v, however above 1.5v LLC extreme will droop a tiny bit like at 1.9v. It really is best to use LLC turbo for air and water OC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenon64*
> 
> No, it isn't showing at all under ATA Port information on the system page on the BIOS.
> I'm thinking it may be something dumb, like I may have plugged a SATA power connector in, but there is no power going into it...I don't know!


You mean into the board or the SSD?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Is there any way to get the vcore to drop when the cpu clock speed drops when in idle? My CPU is running 1.27 vcore 24/7 even when it is idle and downclocked to 1600mhz


I think others answered this, but set your VCore to normal, and then set DVID.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenon64*
> 
> Yes, it is set to AHCI! Thank you for the help!


AHCI is the stock setting.

First just install windows on your Mushkin, if you unplug your other drive, and just plug in the mushkin is it recognized? if so then install on it.


----------



## Spicy61

Guys I picked up a Z77 DS3H... and i can't find any vcore adjustments (what?!). I read on another site that this board doesn't even come with vcore voltage changes?? My $40 biostar board even allows you to change vcore you got to be kidding. I heard though that newer bios versions allow vcore changes. I updated from F2 to F5 (and F4). Still don't see any vcore adjustments in voltage.... please help, this board is frustrating me.

Seriously... can't believe they would not allow such a basic (arguably THE most basic) adjustment. why in the world are they doing this?

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/275752-29-2500k-option-change-vcore

http://www.tonymacx86.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=56617&hilit=alc887&start=300


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> LLC is the reverse of drooping under load, it reduces that drop under load. Basically there is an equation, and the slope in that equation is what LLC controls. The equation is for drop of voltage under load. So basically the slope increases until the line is straight, and then keeps going one step so you can basically rise under load at voltage below 1.5v, however above 1.5v LLC extreme will droop a tiny bit like at 1.9v. It really is best to use LLC turbo for air and water OC.


That went over my head but I will try LLC turbo and see what happens, thanks for the tip.

Sure enough, set it to 1.135v with LLC Turbo and the multimeter reads 1.135 on load. The question is whether I can still pass Large FFT at this voltage. Hope so! Just for another example of CPU-Z giving the wrong voltage, it's telling me that it's running at 1.116v right now.


----------



## Kristof

Just a tip, DO NOT TRY THE AUTOTUNE feature that Gigabyte put in their "Easytune" software. Scared me half to death.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Just a tip, DO NOT TRY THE AUTOTUNE feature that Gigabyte put in their "Easytune" software. Scared me half to death.


I couldn't even get Easytune 6 to work, it would crash after running for a bit.


----------



## Conners

Hey guys/gals new to the forum. Just wanted to say I have a G1.Sniper3 paired with a 3770k. I there an oc guide somewhere as I am very new to the I7. My last processor is a Q9550 on a ud3p.









Thanks in advance!


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conners*
> 
> Hey guys/gals new to the forum. Just wanted to say I have a G1.Sniper3 paired with a 3770k. I there an oc guide somewhere as I am very new to the I7. My last processor is a Q9550 on a ud3p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Here's one. http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## Spicy61

Very disappointed in this brand. My first Gigabyte and probably my last. Let me recap so far what's happened:

1. Not even base LAN drivers installed--not a big deal, just annoying
2. UEFI is complete junk. _Very_ clunky and the mouse integration is poor.
3. Bios utility does not detect newest bios. It updates my old F2 bios to F2.... yea, problem is there's at least 3 other newer bios...
*4. Vcore adjustments not allowed. WHY?* Even sub $50 boards allow vcore adjustments this is just inexcusable. Why even buy an aftermarket board then?
4. Smart fan controls are poor. I have to choose from base settings of "Silent, Normal etc. " Why not give the user more control instead of choosing these preset points.

Seriously considering returning my z77 DS3H. This is NOT a board anyone should be purchasing.


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> First of all,be sure that you have inserted (plugged) any device in USB3 ports,then you can install VIA driver or reflash BIOS.


I did what you said. I reflashed bios F9 and reinstalled drivers with usb devices plugged in. Still cant charge iphone 4.
I tried installing Gigabyte ON/OFF charge utility, but idk where it installed it. Cant find it on my computer.
I couldnt charge my iphone on my EP45-UD3R either.
I tried the power options in the control option and i have it on High Performance and checked advanced settings.
I am using stock iphone cable and I tried using stock iphone firmware.

=(


----------



## ChrisB17

Sin my memories is Crucial Ballistix ddr3-1866 4x4

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148560


----------



## brothergc

ok I am in , posting now on my new z77 UD3H , so far smooth as silk , updated to f9 bios befor loading the OS and all is well . Mine came with F7 preloaded . Did not care for amazons ocaking of my board , they just threw it in a box, no packing material , and just shipped it . one end of my motherboard box was crushed , did not seem to hurt anything but next time I think I will use new egg . Anyway where are the power settings for proformance ? been digging around in the bios and just cant find them , any suggestions ?

oops never mind I found it








I do have one question , is gigabytes utiltitys any good I am looking at "3D Power and easy tune" Never used these any problems with these ? 3D power power looks cool


----------



## Conners

Just out of curousity is there such a thing as a bios template ne more If so I would like to see one for the G1.sniper 3...I know I don't understand what and why I should change a setting. Vcore, dvid llc, fmc and so one. Sorry just trying to figure out how all this works and why.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> setting LLC to high or turbo and using +.010 gives me a vcore in cpu-z of 1.38 going to get a multi meter today on the way home from work done with programs after seeing they aren't accurate.
> Suwannee is very nice, use to go camping there on the river.
> how do I remove stuff I don't want from the sensors page of hwinfo?
> great info going to grab a multi meter and test it out myself, I'm pretty happy with my 1.308 (cpu-z) with temps under 70 @ load.
> should I try and mess with offset, I still don't really understand it fully, or the full benefits.


OK, I see now you're using a 2500K? Then I'm not sure about voltage but I'm running a stable x45 with a 3770K with those settings.Are you sure you were using DVID? You have to set vcore to Normal then you can type in the offset below it.

I'm about a mile from the river, probably 8 miles from the State Park where you may have camped.

HWINFO: bring up the sensor panel and click configure. Click on one of the items you don't want displayed. Now look to right of window, see where the 2 checkboxes are that say Sensor Monitoring Enabled and Show Reading? Just click on one so the checkmarks disappear and it won't be shown. To re-enable just do the opposite.
It appears to me that HWINFO responds faster to vcore changes than any other program I've used, including EasyTune.

Yeah if you're using a 2500K then that's good. When I was running a 2600K it took much more for x45 anyway.
I went and pulled my ancient but expensive bench meter out but it's a PITA bulky, think I'll pick up a small multi next time I go to Lowes or Wally World and compare, if it's close to my BK Precision then I'll just use it instead.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conners*
> 
> Hey guys/gals new to the forum. Just wanted to say I have a G1.Sniper3 paired with a 3770k. I there an oc guide somewhere as I am very new to the I7. My last processor is a Q9550 on a ud3p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Hey Conners, welcome. Glad you made it over, doesn't seem to be many posting with the Sniper 3 yet. For my purposes using DVID offset and High or Turbo LLC works pretty good for me.

I think Sin has a Sniper, maybe he'll chime in.
Not sure about the Sniper, but the UD5H can save profiles which can be loaded on another pc? Look on the last page of the Advanced Bios and see if yours has that ability.


----------



## Conners

Yeah man Hi i did make it lol. Hey ugh just for my education what do you mean by using DVID offset and High or Turbo LLC. Do you put vcore in normal then set DVID to +.010 and leave it there? Or do that and go back and put vcore to say like 1.2v and if you do that does DVID come into play?

Maybe sin will start a g1.sniper 3 officical thread.







No way do I want to read through 138 pages of this forum lol..

guess what forum is down again...lol you don't have to answer that...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conners*
> 
> Yeah man Hi i did make it lol. Hey ugh just for my education what do you mean by using DVID offset and High or Turbo LLC. Do you put vcore in normal then set DVID to +.010 and leave it there? Or do that and go back and put vcore to say like 1.2v and if you do that does DVID come into play?
> Maybe sin will start a g1.sniper 3 officical thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No way do I want to read through 138 pages of this forum lol..
> guess what forum is down again...lol you don't have to answer that...


FYI a new Sniper 3 thread just opened......

Yeah, vcore Normal, set DVID + 0.010, LLC High or Turbo. If not stable you can raise DVID or raise LLC. Anyway it's a starting point. LLC extreme tends to hold the vcore high, lower ones allow some droop.
For now leave everything else Auto in the voltage section,
Play around, I mean you could set a higher DVID and use a lower LLC, whatever works best for you . I do whatever I can to keep the voltage as low as possible under load which helps with heat.

Yeah, they are down over there a lot lately. they need more bandwidth or something.


----------



## mandrix

@Conners, here's my current settings: everything else is Auto except I set Power 300 Current 200, probably don't need to.
Frequency - X45
PWM phase control - Perf
Vcore Voltage Response - Fast
LLC - High
Vcore - Normal
DVID - +0.010

I ran 12 hour Prime 95 custom blend w/90% memory OK with no WHEA errors in Windows Event Viewer.

After X45 the cpu starts getting pretty voltage hungry, at least mine does.


----------



## Conners

Thanks for the reply! hey ugh I noticed while playing around... If I set vcore to 1.2 and LLC to normal I get basically the same reading in Cpuz as when I set Vcore to Normal DViID to +.01. Make sense?


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> I know. All that does is stop my fans.
> What do you have for BIOS settings?


defaults. I can't remember the name, but it is something like normal or auto.

i've only tried 2 fans, the cpu and system header right below the sata ports. i only see options to control the 2 fans in the bios. hopefully, the motherboard knows i only connected the 2 fans, so that is why it is only giving me 2 fan control options. if I connect more to the board, i hope it opens up more options.


----------



## Conners

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> @Conners, here's my current settings: everything else is Auto except I set Power 300 Current 200, probably don't need to.
> Frequency - X45
> PWM phase control - Perf
> Vcore Voltage Response - Fast
> LLC - High
> Vcore - Normal
> DVID - +0.010
> I ran 12 hour Prime 95 custom blend w/90% memory OK with no WHEA errors in Windows Event Viewer.
> After X45 the cpu starts getting pretty voltage hungry, at least mine does.


I seen the G1.sniper thread... But I never knew (good or not) to try Power 300 Current 200 or PWM phase control - Perf
Vcore Voltage Response - Fast. Then I want to know Why?


----------



## homestyle

Anybody know what these new vales are in hwinfo?

cpu package
cpu ia cores
cpu gt cores

cpu package power
ia cores power

IRF IR3567
IRF IR3567
IRF IR3750
I assume these are the vrm controller temps. But where are sensors located?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conners*
> 
> I seen the G1.sniper thread... But I never knew (good or not) to try Power 300 Current 200 or PWM phase control - Perf
> Vcore Voltage Response - Fast. Then I want to know Why?


Why what? Why the Power and Current settings? IDK on my Z68 board it helped, don't know as it's necessary with Z77.
Everything else you 'll have to learn from trying things on your own. When I started I had Sin's guide but I didn't want to use the kind of voltage settings he used so I worked it out on my own, but he did a good job of explaining the BIOS options. Plus I was overclocking my Z68XP-UD3 so had some familiarity with Gigabyte boards.


----------



## AliceInChains

Is the vrm/power-delivery design the same on the ud5h and the g1 sniper 3? They look identical. Just curious. I like the design of the sniper, but I dont need all those extra features and pcie slots.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> OK, I see now you're using a 2500K? Then I'm not sure about voltage but I'm running a stable x45 with a 3770K with those settings.Are you sure you were using DVID? You have to set vcore to Normal then you can type in the offset below it.
> I'm about a mile from the river, probably 8 miles from the State Park where you may have camped.
> HWINFO: bring up the sensor panel and click configure. Click on one of the items you don't want displayed. Now look to right of window, see where the 2 checkboxes are that say Sensor Monitoring Enabled and Show Reading? Just click on one so the checkmarks disappear and it won't be shown. To re-enable just do the opposite.
> It appears to me that HWINFO responds faster to vcore changes than any other program I've used, including EasyTune.
> Yeah if you're using a 2500K then that's good. When I was running a 2600K it took much more for x45 anyway.
> I went and pulled my ancient but expensive bench meter out but it's a PITA bulky, think I'll pick up a small multi next time I go to Lowes or Wally World and compare, if it's close to my BK Precision then I'll just use it instead.


yes sir i5 2500k

thanks for the hwinfo got it working









set dvid to + 0.010 using "normal" LLC set to high = 1.368 in HWinfo, forgot to pick up a multi.

any idea why this is? shouldnt it just be a bit higher then stock volts?


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> @Conners, here's my current settings: everything else is Auto except I set Power 300 Current 200, probably don't need to.
> Frequency - X45
> PWM phase control - Perf
> Vcore Voltage Response - Fast
> LLC - High
> Vcore - Normal
> DVID - +0.010
> I ran 12 hour Prime 95 custom blend w/90% memory OK with no WHEA errors in Windows Event Viewer.
> After X45 the cpu starts getting pretty voltage hungry, at least mine does.


exact same settings and getting vcore of 1.368 @ Idle and drops to 1.356 @ load using hwinfo now.

any ideas?

edit: in the BIOS screen it's showing 1.23 ish vcore?


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> No. It doesn't control PWM and needs a +20 degree offset to the core temp readings.
> 
> 
> 
> What other programs are you using to measure temps?
> 
> BTW, speedfan is working for me. You have to go to advanced, select IT8728F, and set pwm mode to software controlled.
Click to expand...

The temps in SpeedFan are the same as the rest now.

I think I figured out why it wasn't working with my fans. Only CPU_FAN is PWM (hopefully that's wrong).

My PWM fans seem to work alright on the SYS_FAN headers, but I think they're getting VR control cause when they're on my PWM fan controller there is no control---the fan controller does not take VR, only PWM.


----------



## nimitz87

my vcore doesn't seem to change when set to offset. @ iidle or load .

have dvid set to -0.40 and getting 1.332


----------



## homestyle

How do I have the vcore throttle back when my multi drops when I increase vcore and the multi?

I have eist, cxe enabled.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> my vcore doesn't seem to change when set to offset. @ iidle or load .
> have dvid set to -0.40 and getting 1.332


Have you disabled any of the power saving in the BIOS? EIST, etc? Can you take some screenshots of that page and your phase/voltage pages?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> How do I have the vcore throttle back when my multi drops when I increase vcore and the multi?
> I have eist, cxe enabled.


What do you have? Time to update your rig?

Use Vcore - Normal + DVID Offset,
LLC set to extreme _might_ hold the voltage high.


----------



## sixor

hey guys, i know the dif between these 2 mobos, but what about vrm, heatsinks, etc, what could you tell me?

GA-Z77-D3H
z77x ud3h


----------



## akajay

I gave up trying to set DVID on this board.

I know my system is stable at 1.26v but no matter what offset I use without it shooting up to 1.4v a whea error always shows up in event logs.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> +1 REP
> Very good and comprehensive technical review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have one question:
> What's the explanation for the mainboard's higher power consumption (UD5H)?
> *Here* from an older review.
> Shouldn't a highly efficient vrm solution consume less than the other?
> Are the things changed with the one of the latest bios?
> I don't really mind since I still however love the Gigabyte products but what should I explain to the others (on our Italian 3d's) thinking of the UD5H's less efficient power consumption as an inferior vrm issue?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well let's consider this, In the USA at least, the UD5H is a freaking loaded motherboard for the price, it is hard to find a board with more features, so many little ICs, so many power consuming chipsets, there is VIA controllers for 1394A, so many extra SATA controllers from marvell, dual NICs which aren't light on power either. Now here is where the UD5H set's itself apart from all the other boards.... get ready for it, it has *two on-board audio line-drivers,* which are amplifiers!!!! if those don't use power then your sound wouldn't sound good. Now Maximus 5 Gene, just is a simple ALC898 like the UD5H's ALC898, but the M5G has no amps, just more standard capacitors which don't consume more power.
> 
> Also the less phase count you have the higher efficiency you will have. What manufacturers like to hide is that higher phase count=higher number of switching components=lower efficiency. So the 6 phase UD3H will have higher efficiency as the 12 phase UD5H. Other than that the switching frequency has the largest impact, and on the uD3H and UD5H is it set to around 300khz which is pretty low. I know it doesn't need to be increased under OC, but on some other boards it probably is increased.
> 
> What is interesting is that you can clearly see how bad MSI's VRM design is, your best board should be getting the highest power consumption if you use the same phase quality throughout your line, I am pretty sure the Maximus 5 Gene uses same VRm quality as the P8Z77 line, thus making its 8 phases more efficient under idle conditions as there is lower phase count. THis is evident in the GB boards as well, as the UD3H is higher phase quality but lower phase count as the UD5H, but same type of parts and arrangement, with minor difference in MOSFETs to make there a big difference in power consumption.
> 
> Also there are 3 MOSFETs per phase, while this increase the number of switching components, it also helps temperatures and power output greatly as well, these VRMs are built for highest performance. If you want good effieicny, then just run it
> 
> BTW maybe tell your friends to protest for your reviewers to buy two of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999227 modify them, and use them to measure CPU power consumption off the 12v input for the motherboard, that is how I do it :0 and that is the only way you can start to conclude on VRm efficiency
Click to expand...

Got it!
Thanks for the answer, now it's all clear to me.









One last question: would there any be a Z77X-UD7?


----------



## verification11

hello guys

first i'm not a native speaker, so excuse my english

ok... i'm a BIG noob when it comes to overclocking , and i have 2600k with a z77x-d3h mobo

all i done is overclocked mine to 4.2 auto everything......... ran prime95 test for while and it was perfect with my h100 good temps with no errors. loved the extra boost for a couple of days till i got bored again lol, now i want to push my 2600k to the maximum limit









so i tried to play with the V core, little bit of research in google... people where saying something like 1.5v and 1.6v something like that, but on this mobo it's more like 1300 or 1250

so i got confused and adjusted the vcore to 1.0something and booted up on 4.5ghz, and it didnt boot up, freeze and then it wasn't booting up at all removed cmos battery to boot on default bios, then i just went ahead and change it to 4.2 auto everything tell i really get the hang of it









so now i have a couple of questions

what is the safest vcore for 2600k to start for 4.5ghz or 4.6ghz or more ?
and what other setting should i change?, how can you update the bios? what is the best update for overclocking sandy bridge ?


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Have you disabled any of the power saving in the BIOS? EIST, etc? Can you take some screenshots of that page and your phase/voltage pages?
> What do you have? Time to update your rig?
> Use Vcore - Normal + DVID Offset,
> LLC set to extreme _might_ hold the voltage high.


sleep states off EIST off.

stupid but how do I take a screenie of the BIOS and where's it saved to?










I currently have it set to -40 ran an hour each of 1344 and 1792

min vcore 1.296

max vcore 1.320

max temps 68 deg.

without offset I was running 1.308 passed 12 hours of 90% blend.

Chad


----------



## homestyle

Is there a way to turn off the blinking lights on the lan port in the back of the ud3h board?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> sleep states off EIST off.
> stupid but how do I take a screenie of the BIOS and where's it saved to?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I currently have it set to -40 ran an hour each of 1344 and 1792
> min vcore 1.296
> max vcore 1.320
> max temps 68 deg.
> without offset I was running 1.308 passed 12 hours of 90% blend.
> Chad


Put a stick in a USB port and hit F12 while in BIOS on each screen you want to capture.
Renable EIST, all that stuff on the page you can put on Auto, you don't need to turn it off, and it should idle down and vcore drop when inactive.
Go to http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/0_20 on page 3 and you can see my 4.5 OC settings.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61*
> 
> Very disappointed in this brand. My first Gigabyte and probably my last. Let me recap so far what's happened:
> 1. Not even base LAN drivers installed--not a big deal, just annoying
> 2. UEFI is complete junk. _Very_ clunky and the mouse integration is poor.
> 3. Bios utility does not detect newest bios. It updates my old F2 bios to F2.... yea, problem is there's at least 3 other newer bios...
> *4. Vcore adjustments not allowed. WHY?* Even sub $50 boards allow vcore adjustments this is just inexcusable. Why even buy an aftermarket board then?
> 4. Smart fan controls are poor. I have to choose from base settings of "Silent, Normal etc. " Why not give the user more control instead of choosing these preset points.
> Seriously considering returning my z77 DS3H. This is NOT a board anyone should be purchasing.


I am going to say this once, and only once, you bought the cheapest board you could find, you are lucky you even found a Z77 board for that price. Here is the issue, no serious OCer buys a $50 motherboard to OC with, that is the issue, no one will buy it to OC so the manufacturer wont put so many OC feature into it, can you afford a better motherboard? I mean for $50 i wouldn't put much faith into OCing with a $50 board.

I know for a fact that on the UD3H, UD5H, and other boards I have tried, the speed can controls give you the option to manually set the fan PWm modes, very nice too. I also know it gives you total options when it comes to voltage adjustment.

You have to use QFlash in the BIOS to update the BIOS, take a FAT32 thumb drive, load up the BIOS file on there and go into the BIOS advanced mode, and hit F8 and follow the steps, perhaps that is the issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Sin my memories is Crucial Ballistix ddr3-1866 4x4
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148560


Thank you. Try set XMP, manually set the first timings, manually set the multiplier, set the VDIMM to 1.7v, and see if it works.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brothergc*
> 
> ok I am in , posting now on my new z77 UD3H , so far smooth as silk , updated to f9 bios befor loading the OS and all is well . Mine came with F7 preloaded . Did not care for amazons ocaking of my board , they just threw it in a box, no packing material , and just shipped it . one end of my motherboard box was crushed , did not seem to hurt anything but next time I think I will use new egg . Anyway where are the power settings for proformance ? been digging around in the bios and just cant find them , any suggestions ?
> oops never mind I found it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have one question , is gigabytes utiltitys any good I am looking at "3D Power and easy tune" Never used these any problems with these ? 3D power power looks cool


3D power im my opinion is a waste of time lol. It is cool tho, you can test in windows with changing LLC levels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conners*
> 
> Just out of curousity is there such a thing as a bios template ne more If so I would like to see one for the G1.sniper 3...I know I don't understand what and why I should change a setting. Vcore, dvid llc, fmc and so one. Sorry just trying to figure out how all this works and why.


THey have BIOS profile saving now, just introduced it is pretty cool, but you need the board to use it, so there is a place to templates still.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Hey Conners, welcome. Glad you made it over, doesn't seem to be many posting with the Sniper 3 yet. For my purposes using DVID offset and High or Turbo LLC works pretty good for me.
> I think Sin has a Sniper, maybe he'll chime in.
> Not sure about the Sniper, but the UD5H can save profiles which can be loaded on another pc? Look on the last page of the Advanced Bios and see if yours has that ability.


Yea I will help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> 
> Anybody know what these new vales are in hwinfo?
> cpu package
> cpu ia cores
> cpu gt cores
> cpu package power
> ia cores power
> IRF IR3567
> IRF IR3567
> IRF IR3750
> I assume these are the vrm controller temps. But where are sensors located?


Yea they are the PWMs, there is on IRF3567(6+2 phase) and a IRF3750(3+2phase). I bet yu those temps are the temps of the controller itself or the phases, in which that case they are very low.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AliceInChains*
> 
> Is the vrm/power-delivery design the same on the ud5h and the g1 sniper 3? They look identical. Just curious. I like the design of the sniper, but I dont need all those extra features and pcie slots.


Yes it is the same.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> hey guys, i know the dif between these 2 mobos, but what about vrm, heatsinks, etc, what could you tell me?
> GA-Z77-D3H
> z77x ud3h


VRM is the same, as is the heatsink, but the input power connector is different. Also D3H has 1 oz copper PCB(which is the standard), the UD3H has 2 oz. Also UD3H has real overclocking features, which are handy like voltage read points and post code.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Got it!
> Thanks for the answer, now it's all clear to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One last question: would there any be a Z77X-UD7?


At this point and time I cannot answer that question, however I will say that technically no there will not be a Z77X-UD7.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verification11*
> 
> hello guys
> first i'm not a native speaker, so excuse my english
> ok... i'm a BIG noob when it comes to overclocking , and i have 2600k with a z77x-d3h mobo
> all i done is overclocked mine to 4.2 auto everything......... ran prime95 test for while and it was perfect with my h100 good temps with no errors. loved the extra boost for a couple of days till i got bored again lol, now i want to push my 2600k to the maximum limit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i tried to play with the V core, little bit of research in google... people where saying something like 1.5v and 1.6v something like that, but on this mobo it's more like 1300 or 1250
> so i got confused and adjusted the vcore to 1.0something and booted up on 4.5ghz, and it didnt boot up, freeze and then it wasn't booting up at all removed cmos battery to boot on default bios, then i just went ahead and change it to 4.2 auto everything tell i really get the hang of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so now i have a couple of questions
> what is the safest vcore for 2600k to start for 4.5ghz or 4.6ghz or more ?
> and what other setting should i change?, how can you update the bios? what is the best update for overclocking sandy bridge ?


set the vcore to 1.4000v and then set 45x, then work the vcore down, until you are a t a point with good temperatures. 1.4000v is a lot for 4.5ghz, but it will make sure 4.5ghz posts, so when take the vcore down a few notches at a time until you reach your lowest stable vcore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> Is there a way to turn off the blinking lights on the lan port in the back of the ud3h board?


lol. Have you ever seen an option to turn off the lights on a LAN port? Perhaps in windows in some windows thing, but not through the BIOS, at least not on these boards.


----------



## verification11

"then set 45x"

sorry for my noobishness. but could you be more specific ? , set what to 45x ??, Thanks in advance


----------



## 0CALEFACTION0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verification11*
> 
> "set the vcore to 1.4000v and then set 45x"
> could you be more specific ? , set what to 45x ??, thanks in advanced


He means the multiplier good sir.


----------



## verification11

oooooooooh i seeeeeeeeeeee , i'm too slow









ok i will try and report back, thank you very much.


----------



## verification11

^^^

first boot up at 4.5ghz , thank u sin......

edit: crashes when i run prime95 any suggestion?
as i've said before excuse my noobishness!


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> The temps in SpeedFan are the same as the rest now.
> I think I figured out why it wasn't working with my fans. Only CPU_FAN is PWM (hopefully that's wrong).
> My PWM fans seem to work alright on the SYS_FAN headers, but I think they're getting VR control cause when they're on my PWM fan controller there is no control---the fan controller does not take VR, only PWM.


I looked through the manual and only the cpu fan is pwm control. the others just have 4 pins for decoration.

terrible money saving decision on gigabyte's decision.


----------



## samwiches

SYS_FAN1 is also PWM. The rest I won't check just yet, cause my Rheosmart controller cable won't reach them anyway.


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Put a stick in a USB port and hit F12 while in BIOS on each screen you want to capture.
> Renable EIST, all that stuff on the page you can put on Auto, you don't need to turn it off, and it should idle down and vcore drop when inactive.
> Go to http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/0_20 on page 3 and you can see my 4.5 OC settings.


yeah tried that afterwards.

everything set to stock vcore to normal +0.010 45x idles, volts down etc. but @ load it is MUCH higher then manually setting it.

1.368 @ load with offset, 1.308 without.

I don't see any benefits to offset?

Chad


----------



## sixor

thanks sin

i wish i went with GA-Z77-D3H, 40$ wasted

soon will arrive my z77x


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> yeah tried that afterwards.
> everything set to stock vcore to normal +0.010 45x idles, volts down etc. but @ load it is MUCH higher then manually setting it.
> 1.368 @ load with offset, 1.308 without.
> I don't see any benefits to offset?
> Chad


Yeah I forget you got a 2500K. My 2600K took more voltage as well.
Have you tried going lower on the LLC? If that doesn't work you can keep reducing the DVID offset, into negative numbers even.
I mean there is no way you can't get the voltage down. What vcore does the BIOS show?
If you had the 2500K on a previous board, what was your 45x vcore under load?


----------



## GAEVULK

Hi boys, have a problem with a gigabyte z77 ds3h, I have an i5 2500k and in the bios adjourned to the last official version f5 but inside the bios they are not present the voices to regulate the vcore of the cpu instead one friend of mine it has an ivy 3570k it has the regulation of the bios vcore I attach you a photo to make to understand to which is the problem I hope can help me hi



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## nimitz87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yeah I forget you got a 2500K. My 2600K took more voltage as well.
> Have you tried going lower on the LLC? If that doesn't work you can keep reducing the DVID offset, into negative numbers even.
> I mean there is no way you can't get the voltage down. What vcore does the BIOS show?
> If you had the 2500K on a previous board, what was your 45x vcore under load?


messing with LLC next it's set to high right now.

won't boot to windows any lower then - 0.040 vcore flutates fine at low/no load @ 100% load though it jumps up to 1.361 vs 1.308 when I have it set to manual.

temps are pretty much exactly the same...so basically since the computer doesn't see 100% load unless im testing is offset worth it?

Chad


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> messing with LLC next it's set to high right now.
> won't boot to windows any lower then - 0.040 vcore flutates fine at low/no load @ 100% load though it jumps up to 1.361 vs 1.308 when I have it set to manual.
> temps are pretty much exactly the same...so basically since the computer doesn't see 100% load unless im testing is offset worth it?
> Chad


Up to you. Just set it up so the vcore /frequency drops at idle and use the settings that give you lowest stable vcore under load.


----------



## Electroneng

I have both a UD5H and a UD3H and I must say they are an improvement from the p67 - Z68 - X79 chipsets! Gigabyte got behind by going with the hybrid bios.

A lot of issues still need to be worked out with the USB functionality though! The XHCI adaptability seems to be flawed. This includes all options smart auto/auto/enabled etc..A new bios update solves one USB problem but creates another. Maybe blame this on Intel but I do not think so. Asus boards have a better acceptance of different USB Product manufacturers and I can say the same for MSI.

To fight a USB acceptance issue for hours that was not experienced on an Asus and MSI product causes some concerns.

I use high end gaming keyboards and mice down to the basic products.

I use all operating systems in my endeavor but I have also experienced greater issues with USB in the mainstream Windows 7!

I wish I had the time to compare different USB products with different manufacturers but it just is not possible at this point! I am trying to get a couple of review websites to make this comparison though!

Just a concern from a longtime Gigabyte user!


----------



## ChrisB17

Finally getting somewhere. 15hr+ prime blend stable with 16gb maxed. I used offset of +0.085 on top of my vid on auto, Giving me 1.296 at load for 4.5ghz. Temps maxing at 78-80*c. Good or not?


----------



## KillrBuckeye

It seems 4.4 GHz is where I'm going to stay with this 3770K. Even with a negative offset of 0.0015V, load temps hit 90C on one core. I played around at 4.5 GHz with a +0.0005V offset, but temps got up to 98C (the next hottest core was at 90C)! I reseated my Hyper 212 Evo, and temps only changed by ~1 degree. The TIM pattern looked fine. Nothing really changed with the side panel removed either. Oh well, 4.5 GHz was my goal and I came up just a bit short. There's not much left to try at this point except switching to water cooling, and even then I'm not sure I'd get much further with this chip.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> I have both a UD5H and a UD3H and I must say they are an improvement from the p67 - Z68 - X79 chipsets! Gigabyte got behind by going with the hybrid bios.
> 
> A lot of issues still need to be worked out with the USB functionality though! The XHCI adaptability seems to be flawed. This includes all options smart auto/auto/enabled etc..A new bios update solves one USB problem but creates another. Maybe blame this on Intel but I do not think so. Asus boards have a better acceptance of different USB Product manufacturers and I can say the same for MSI.
> 
> To fight a USB acceptance issue for hours that was not experienced on an Asus and MSI product causes some concerns.
> 
> I use high end gaming keyboards and mice down to the basic products.
> 
> I use all operating systems in my endeavor but I have also experienced greater issues with USB in the mainstream Windows 7!
> 
> I wish I had the time to compare different USB products with different manufacturers but it just is not possible at this point! I am trying to get a couple of review websites to make this comparison though!
> 
> Just a concern from a longtime Gigabyte user!


I having a problem with the keyboard going out, or sticking one keypress making me unplug it and move it to different port or reboot.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> I having a problem with the keyboard going out, or sticking one keypress making me unplug it and move it to different port or reboot.


yeah, me too. i was pulling my hair out over this and was about to bring it back to the store. i was using the intel usb 3.0 ports and had to retart constantly to get my keyboard and mouse to work during the windows installation.

the lack of ahci/sata drivers (or whatever it's called) was giving me issues too. In a clean install of windows on my crucial m4 ssd, I was getting 2 minute windows load until I installed one of the driver sets.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimitz87*
> 
> ]
> Got any more info on running offset @ 45x?
> I'm @ 4.5ghz
> running 1.310 vcore in the BIOS
> 1.308 @ 100% load in CPU-z
> LLC on extreme


Damn, my 2500k takes 1.35v to be 4.5ghz stable. I use LLC on high though, not extreme. My 1.35v on high LLC is probably dropping to 1.32-1.33 and your 1.31 on extreme is probably raising to 1.32 though. Which one do you think is the better choice? heh

IMO, you should probably raise your vcore to 1.32-1.325 and run turbo LLC instead of Extreme. Having LLC that makes voltage go higher than idle scares me.


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I am going to say this once, and only once, you bought the cheapest board you could find, you are lucky you even found a Z77 board for that price. Here is the issue, no serious OCer buys a $50 motherboard to OC with, that is the issue, no one will buy it to OC so the manufacturer wont put so many OC feature into it, can you afford a better motherboard? I mean for $50 i wouldn't put much faith into OCing with a $50 board.
> I know for a fact that on the UD3H, UD5H, and other boards I have tried, the speed can controls give you the option to manually set the fan PWm modes, very nice too. I also know it gives you total options when it comes to voltage adjustment.
> You have to use QFlash in the BIOS to update the BIOS, take a FAT32 thumb drive, load up the BIOS file on there and go into the BIOS advanced mode, and hit F8 and follow the steps, perhaps that is the issue.


My board was $110. It was not a $50 board. And may I politely ask why that matters in the first place? *Even my very first board, a $40 micro ATX board from long ago even allows Vcore adjustments*. Even my friend's reference board allows it. I really don't understand why you are trying to justify excluding such a basic feature based on price. There is absolutely NO excuse to not allow Vcore adjustments on an aftermarket board.

My 890FXE board was $120 from Tiger Direct brand new and was one of the best OC boards for the Phenom IIs, breaking world records for some time (the clock records were even put on the Newegg page for this board). Look at the Z77 ASrock boards that are currently selling for $120... do these boards lock vcore? Even if my board was $50 it should allow vcore adjustments. Whether it OCs well or not or whether it has fine voltage increments is a different topic. But adjustments, even crude ones, should be available. I know you are knowledgeable about computers and I respect that but I adamantly disagree with your opinion on this topic. We will agree to disagree I guess... although I am pretty shocked at your answer.


----------



## Snakes

Sounds like you made an uninformed purchase. Most people would make sure the board has the features they want before they bought it, but I guess if they're very basic features then it'd make sense to assume they'd be there. I sympathize with ya but still, you gotta take some of the blame for not doing the research.


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Sounds like you made an uninformed purchase. Most people would make sure the board has the features they want before they bought it, but I guess if they're very basic features then it'd make sense to assume they'd be there. I sympathize with ya but still, you gotta take some of the blame for not doing the research.


Thanks. There was no information about this on the ad page (hence why they accepted my return). I also did look at the Gigabyte page. I looked at it again--there is nothing there that hints of Gigabyte's decision to remove vcore from this board.

Oh, and I love this claim directly from their page about this board:

"GIGABYTE Z77-DS3H Motherboard ensure outstanding system _absolute control_, with additional features that ensure an unrivalled experience on your next PC build."

Right. Absolute control = removing the most basic voltage adjustment.


----------



## Snakes

That sucks man, glad you were able to return it.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAEVULK*
> 
> Hi boys, have a problem with a gigabyte z77 ds3h, I have an i5 2500k and in the bios adjourned to the last official version f5 but inside the bios they are not present the voices to regulate the vcore of the cpu instead one friend of mine it has an ivy 3570k it has the regulation of the bios vcore I attach you a photo to make to understand to which is the problem I hope can help me hi
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Apparently your mainboard doesn't have this option within the bios like all the Z77X boards (I checked the DS3H's manual).



The vcore is *really missing* however you can wait for a new bios since they already unlocked the vcore option for the 22nm cpu's.









Maybe lowering your cpu pll voltage may help for now (in oc) reducing the temps furthermore.


----------



## stasio

New BIOS on TT forum.

Edit:
New BIOS for boards bellow Z77-D3H, would NOT bring Vcore in BIOS due to hardware limitation (Gigabyte 3D Power).


----------



## Matt-Matt

Picked up a Z77x-D3H today for $179 AUD. Looks amazing!  - Sorry HTC Wildfire S camera :s


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Finally getting somewhere. 15hr+ prime blend stable with 16gb maxed. I used offset of +0.085 on top of my vid on auto, Giving me 1.296 at load for 4.5ghz. Temps maxing at 78-80*c. Good or not?


I think you're looking pretty good. Look around and see what other 3570k users are getting?


----------



## ChrisB17

Im pretty sure I got a bad ocing chip. It likes voltage. Uhg


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Just a tip, DO NOT TRY THE AUTOTUNE feature that Gigabyte put in their "Easytune" software. Scared me half to death.


Yeah, Not knowing any better I ran this and it got all the way to 4.8 or 4.9 before going unstable and the computer restarting. Auto OC is generally not a good idea anyway imho. If something goes wrong you have no way of knowing what the cause was and/or how to potentially correct. I guess for modest OC's it is useful, but not for finding your max OC.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61*
> 
> My board was $110. It was not a $50 board. And may I politely ask why that matters in the first place? *Even my very first board, a $40 micro ATX board from long ago even allows Vcore adjustments*. Even my friend's reference board allows it. I really don't understand why you are trying to justify excluding such a basic feature based on price. There is absolutely NO excuse to not allow Vcore adjustments on an aftermarket board.
> My 890FXE board was $120 from Tiger Direct brand new and was one of the best OC boards for the Phenom IIs, breaking world records for some time (the clock records were even put on the Newegg page for this board). Look at the Z77 ASrock boards that are currently selling for $120... do these boards lock vcore? Even if my board was $50 it should allow vcore adjustments. Whether it OCs well or not or whether it has fine voltage increments is a different topic. But adjustments, even crude ones, should be available. I know you are knowledgeable about computers and I respect that but I adamantly disagree with your opinion on this topic. We will agree to disagree I guess... although I am pretty shocked at your answer.


I just don't like when people buy cheap motherboards to OC lol, I am sorry i wasn't in a very good mood at that point, I apologize if what I said came off the wrong way. Listen sometimes motherboards that cost less have less features the ones that cost more have, like the vcore adjustment. I will report and ask about the boards lower than the D3H, as they should have some type of vcore adjustment, if not only just DVID offset. I agree, but i thought you said the board cost $50, now you say it cost you $110 then I do think it should have some type of vcore adjustment.


----------



## drotaru

new bios for UD5H , F8c , anybody know what's changed ?


----------



## Sin0822

nope, try it out!


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61*
> 
> My board was $110. It was not a $50 board. And may I politely ask why that matters in the first place? *Even my very first board, a $40 micro ATX board from long ago even allows Vcore adjustments*. Even my friend's reference board allows it. I really don't understand why you are trying to justify excluding such a basic feature based on price. There is absolutely NO excuse to not allow Vcore adjustments on an aftermarket board.
> My 890FXE board was $120 from Tiger Direct brand new and was one of the best OC boards for the Phenom IIs, breaking world records for some time (the clock records were even put on the Newegg page for this board). Look at the Z77 ASrock boards that are currently selling for $120... do these boards lock vcore? Even if my board was $50 it should allow vcore adjustments. Whether it OCs well or not or whether it has fine voltage increments is a different topic. But adjustments, even crude ones, should be available. I know you are knowledgeable about computers and I respect that but I adamantly disagree with your opinion on this topic. We will agree to disagree I guess... although I am pretty shocked at your answer.


Just because you think a feature should be available on a product doesn't constitute a shortcoming of the mfg. for not including it. If it was important to you then you should do your homework and make sure it has what you want. The language that is used in ads is always going to use those types of general statements about giving you full control, blah blah blah. You may not agree but cost does have a general direct relationship with features. I think its funny (not ha ha funny) that even after you were able to rma your still *****ing. Buy a board that has the features you want at a cost your willing to pay. If you buy something that claims to have a feature that doesn't, or it doesn't work correctly (or at all) you have a legit gripe. Otherwise you made a mistake and you should chalk it up as a learning experience. Stop blaming someone else for your mistake.


----------



## samwiches

I don't blame him. Sounds to me like they gimped it by design. Like the P8Z68-V LE; I found out right away that ASUS allowed offset only, with no fixed Vcore that overclockers like.

How do these decisions reduce cost or improve value?


----------



## grizindabox

Mandrix, did you ever hear back from Gigbyte about the board with bent pins? What was the final verdict with them?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Mandrix, did you ever hear back from Gigbyte about the board with bent pins? What was the final verdict with them?


All I know is they have the board since the 10th. End of story, haven't heard anything else yet. Don't have any idea what their turnaround time is, never RMA'd a board to Gigabyte before. I just hope they fix it and don't charge me a fortune. If I hadn't tried to straighten the d*** pins and mount a cpu -maybe- Newegg would have took it back. You know, I never even looked at the socket until I had the board mounted, and as soon as I took the cover off I saw a shiny spot where it turns out the pins were bent over, and what looked like bits of plastic intermingled. Never had an experience like that before and Newegg basically said I was lying which was upsetting, but what you gonna do? I didn't see any use in going on about it, I bet they get lots of end user fubar'd stuff.
Problem is I've got several things from Newegg lately that have been dysfunctional, not all computer related. Starting to wonder what the deal is.


----------



## grizindabox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> All I know is they have the board since the 10th. End of story, haven't heard anything else yet. Don't have any idea what their turnaround time is, never RMA'd a board to Gigabyte before. I just hope they fix it and don't charge me a fortune. If I hadn't tried to straighten the d*** pins and mount a cpu -maybe- Newegg would have took it back. You know, I never even looked at the socket until I had the board mounted, and as soon as I took the cover off I saw a shiny spot where it turns out the pins were bent over, and what looked like bits of plastic intermingled. Never had an experience like that before and Newegg basically said I was lying which was upsetting, but what you gonna do? I didn't see any use in going on about it, I bet they get lots of end user fubar'd stuff.
> Problem is I've got several things from Newegg lately that have been dysfunctional, not all computer related. Starting to wonder what the deal is.


I should get my POS back from Newegg in the next couple days, wondering if it is worth my time to deal with Gigabyte or not.


----------



## ElectricDelta

I've been running a new GA-Z77X-UD5H for about a week and a half now, and overall well-pleased with it. I've noticed a couple of issues with USB devices, one almost certainly BIOS-related, the second... I'm not so sure. My board arrived with BIOS F5 installed, I flashed it to F6 right away, and then flashed to F7 when it officially appeared on the Gigabyte site. I have not played with the beta BIOSes yet. I've got the Intel iGPU disabled, 1394 disabled and never installed the VirtuMVP nonsense. The board is rock-stable, the only funny business seems to be with USB.

The first issue is trying to get into the BIOS, it will hang up with a partially-drawn BIOS screen, if I have my external USB 2.0 hub connected. The hub is a Belkin, and I have an old Epson scanner, an old Microsoft Force Feedback 2 joystick and a relatively new Thermaltake hard drive sata dock "toaster" attached to it. If I unplug the USB hub, I can get into the BIOS and navigate it just fine. There is no problem with the hub or any of these devices, if I let it just boot into Windows 7, only accessing the BIOS is a problem. The joystick emulates a keyboard to a certain degree, that may be at the root of the problem. Anyway, unplugging the USB hub is hopefully just a temporary workaround to get into the BIOS.

The second issue is my Andrea Electronics USB-MA microphone adapter, which I plug into my case's front USB port, I generally get an Error Code 10, device failed to start, on first cold boot-up, seen in the Device Manager. Re-plugging the USB-MA will get it working, if not on the first re-plug attempt, then usually on the second, or at the most third re-plug attempt. The USB-MA always worked perfectly on my old faithful GA-EP45-UD3R, that was previously installed in the same case, and I've tested it on another computer and it works fine there. Once it gets working, through re-plugging it, it works fine thereafter on the GA-Z77X-UD5H. I downloaded the newest drivers from Andrea Electronics, and it made no difference. I really like this USB-MA too, it completely got rid of the light, but annoying, 60 Hz hum that I used to get with my headset mic plugged into the X-Fi's front or rear mic input.

Any comments or insight will be appreciated, otherwise I'll wait for a new BIOS to hopefully iron these minor issues out.


----------



## crimsonspark

hey guys, i've been reading this thread ever since i got my z77x ud3h, anything in particular that i should know else besides updating my bios?

here's my rig:

intel core i7 2600k
gigabyte z77x ud3h
g.skill ripjaws F3 12800CL9D 8GBXL
corsair hx650
evga gts 450 ftw
corsair carbide 500r

anything that i can know more or anything, i'll be happy to have your advices on things, PC build 1st time and a OCN newbie here, much appreciated


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimsonspark*
> 
> hey guys, i've been reading this thread ever since i got my z77x ud3h, anything in particular that i should know else besides updating my bios?
> 
> here's my rig:
> 
> intel core i7 2600k
> gigabyte z77x ud3h
> g.skill ripjaws F3 12800CL9D 8GBXL
> corsair hx650
> evga gts 450 ftw
> corsair carbide 500r
> 
> anything that i can know more or anything, i'll be happy to have your advices on things, PC build 1st time and a OCN newbie here, much appreciated


Only thing I can recommend goes against what you posted. Only really need to update your BIOS if an update is necessary. I'm still running an older version of my BIOS... however I haven't had any issues. If It ain't broke...


----------



## ZealotKi11er

How possible is to hit 4.8Ghz with 3570K?


----------



## x123x

hello, i have z77x-ud3h and my samsung ssd 830 128GB (last firmware) dont boot on bios F8, F9 and F10. Loop gigabyte uefi logo screen. Boot properly on F5, F7. What can i do?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> I should get my POS back from Newegg in the next couple days, wondering if it is worth my time to deal with Gigabyte or not.


IDK, check with me from time to time PM and I'll let you know what I find out. I've heard Gigabyte is pretty good about fixing things, but the way my luck is going with new parts I'm almost afraid to be hopeful.
If I have to pay a ton and shipping I'll tell them to keep it.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> I don't blame him. Sounds to me like they gimped it by design. Like the P8Z68-V LE; I found out right away that ASUS allowed offset only, with no fixed Vcore that overclockers like.
> How do these decisions reduce cost or improve value?


One word, Sales, the sales department makes decisions like that to bring distinctions between boards within the same chipset.

Anyways *Spicy*- It look slike they wont be adding VCore adjustment to that board. I can recommend the Z77-D3H or Z77MX-D3H as the cheapest boards with VCore adjustment, both shoudl perform okay. The MX has MVP, while the Z77 doesn't. the MX is also mATX tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Only thing I can recommend goes against what you posted. Only really need to update your BIOS if an update is necessary. I'm still running an older version of my BIOS... however I haven't had any issues. If It ain't broke...


*Good advice.*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> How possible is to hit 4.8Ghz with 3570K?


I can hit that with my 3770K very easily. Are you asking for your 3570K? You need a 3570K which can do it first of all, ussually your max OC will be like 200-300mhz higher than the OC that is stable with water/air cooling and Ivy. I could make a profile for it if you like, or just use my 4.5ghz profile and increase the multiplier.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x123x*
> 
> hello, i have z77x-ud3h and my samsung ssd 830 128GB (last firmware) dont boot on bios F8, F9 and F10. Loop gigabyte uefi logo screen. Boot properly on F5, F7. What can i do?


I have the same SSD, but the 64GB version. Are you checking to make sure the SATA mode and the boot selection is set correctly?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> IDK, check with me from time to time PM and I'll let you know what I find out. I've heard Gigabyte is pretty good about fixing things, but the way my luck is going with new parts I'm almost afraid to be hopeful.
> If I have to pay a ton and shipping I'll tell them to keep it.


Yea they should email you, or you can email them and ask for an update.


----------



## homestyle

How does changing the turbo power limit (watts) or core current limit (amps) help in overclocking?

Are they interelated? If I increase the limits on 1 value while decrease the limits in another, does the system go with the more conservative values?


----------



## crimsonspark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Only thing I can recommend goes against what you posted. Only really need to update your BIOS if an update is necessary. I'm still running an older version of my BIOS... however I haven't had any issues. If It ain't broke...


thanks clownie, will report back once rig is all setup and have no problems detected


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Just because you think a feature should be available on a product doesn't constitute a shortcoming of the mfg. for not including it. If it was important to you then you should do your homework and make sure it has what you want. The language that is used in ads is always going to use those types of general statements about giving you full control, blah blah blah. You may not agree but cost does have a general direct relationship with features. I think its funny (not ha ha funny) that even after you were able to rma your still *****ing. Buy a board that has the features you want at a cost your willing to pay. If you buy something that claims to have a feature that doesn't, or it doesn't work correctly (or at all) you have a legit gripe. Otherwise you made a mistake and you should chalk it up as a learning experience. Stop blaming someone else for your mistake.


I did do my homework. Nowhere on the product page or the retailer's ad page did it mention that the DS3H does not provide vcore. Ask yourself this--what boards even advertise having such a feature? It's so basic it's never mentioned.

"Buy a board that has the features you want at a cost your willing to pay."

^ This is laughable. A mobo that costs over $100 should _definitely_ have VCORE adjustments. Give me a break. A board that is under $150 may not OC well and that is fine and your quote applies in that case but having VCORE is so basic that your quote is ridiculous in this context. As I mentioned earlier, even boards that cost half as much as the DS3H have vcore. And there are PLENTY of mobos in the same price range as the DS3H that have vcore adjustments. It's ironic to me that I have to even mention this. I am not complaining because the DS3H cannot clock as well as a $199 board or because of special features missing. Those all come with price as you mentioned. But let's be real here... we are talking about CPU VCORE.


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> One word, Sales, the sales department makes decisions like that to bring distinctions between boards within the same chipset.
> Anyways *Spicy*- It look slike they wont be adding VCore adjustment to that board. I can recommend the Z77-D3H or Z77MX-D3H as the cheapest boards with VCore adjustment, both shoudl perform okay. The MX has MVP, while the Z77 doesn't. the MX is also mATX tho.


Thanks Sin0822 for the recommendation.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Since i got the Ivy i have been constantly tweaking the bios and i have to say that most stability tests don't apply to this chip ...i was P95, Hyper PI ,LinX stable until i start playing BF3 ,don't know if this is due to the new Tri-Gate Transistor or what, but CPU intensive games like BF3 can bring this processor to its knees ,just my









Sin can you explain the GFX thing ..or ask GB about it
Thanks


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Since i got the Ivy i have been constantly tweaking the bios and i have to say that most stability tests don't apply to this chip ...i was P95, Hyper PI ,LinX stable until i start playing BF3 ,don't know if this is due to the new Tri-Gate Transistor or what, but CPU intensive games like BF3 can bring this processor to its knees ,just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sin can you explain the GFX thing ..or ask GB about it
> Thanks


Agreed.







BF3 has proven to show instability when voltage is too low. It will freeze up. Not the PC, just BF3. Example. 45x using +.015 offset . TweakLauncher shows target voltage of 1.265v. (TL & ET6 both show target voltage when using DVID) With LLC set to medium, IBT load vcore 1.212-1.224. BF3 failed with ten minutes. Also several WHEA errors registered before freezing. I Set LLC to turbo with IBT load vcore of 1.248-1.260. BF3 stable for over an hour. No Whea errors. BTW, ive already completed 18 hours of custom prime using +.050 offset. Im just working on lowering vcore now.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephimports*
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BF3 has proven to show instability when voltage is too low. It will freeze up. Not the PC, just BF3. Example. 45x using +.015 offset . TweakLauncher shows target voltage of 1.265v. (TL & ET6 both show target voltage when using DVID) With LLC set to medium, IBT load vcore 1.212-1.224. BF3 failed with ten minutes. Also several WHEA errors registered before freezing. I Set LLC to turbo with IBT load vcore of 1.248-1.260. BF3 stable for over an hour. No Whea errors. BTW, ive already completed 18 hours of custom prime using +.050 offset. Im just working on lowering vcore now.


Yeap ..same here and yes i had to make few changes in my OC like different LLC and Phase + about .03v more ,so far so good


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> One word, Sales, the sales department makes decisions like that to bring distinctions between boards within the same chipset.
> Anyways *Spicy*- It look slike they wont be adding VCore adjustment to that board. I can recommend the Z77-D3H or Z77MX-D3H as the cheapest boards with VCore adjustment, both shoudl perform okay. The MX has MVP, while the Z77 doesn't. the MX is also mATX tho.
> *Good advice.*
> I can hit that with my 3770K very easily. Are you asking for your 3570K? You need a 3570K which can do it first of all, ussually your max OC will be like 200-300mhz higher than the OC that is stable with water/air cooling and Ivy. I could make a profile for it if you like, or just use my 4.5ghz profile and increase the multiplier.
> I have the same SSD, but the 64GB version. Are you checking to make sure the SATA mode and the boot selection is set correctly?
> Yea they should email you, or you can email them and ask for an update.


Would love a profile @ 4.8Ghz. Also how far do u recommend i keep the CPU for 24/7? Did not bother me having 2500K @ 1.46v for 24.7.


----------



## x123x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I have the same SSD, but the 64GB version. Are you checking to make sure the SATA mode and the boot selection is set correctly?
> Yea they should email you, or you can email them and ask for an update.


my z77x-ud3h on F8 and F9 won't boot from anything (pendrive, HDD, SDD, DVD), loop logo screen, on F7 boot from everything correctly, on F10 boot from everything but not from SSD samsung 830.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> ..............
> Yea they should email you, or you can email them and ask for an update.


Yep got an email this morning, Gigabyte sending my board back via UPS, should be here Friday. Form just said 'RMA Repaired Shipping Notice Doc." so I'm hoping for the best. No charges were mentioned.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> How possible is to hit 4.8Ghz with 3570K?


You should have no problem. Our systems are very similar. I am currently running prime on a 4800 OC as we speak, and should know when I get home from work whether it was stable. I'll post up the profile when I get home tonight and you can try it out. I think my vcore is at 1.36 and my max core temp is in the low 80's. Now whether that will fly in BF3 is another story.


----------



## robiatti

I Think I may be one of few UD5H owners that has nothing to complain about.

So, I decided to give the beta bios F8c a try . So far so good.
I am able to run my 3570k on auto voltage at 4.5Ghz. something that was not possible before.
As far as stability goes, it seems fine Played Diablo 3 for a couple hours last night and no problems.
Ran BF3 for a while as well. no issues.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

I am not going to be overclocking mine at all. I'll have an i7-3770k CPU in it and a PNY GTX 580. Are there any issues with the board settings at stock defaults? I haven't finished constructing my PC but I want to be aware of any problems I might face before the fact.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> One word, Sales, the sales department makes decisions like that to bring distinctions between boards within the same chipset.
> Anyways *Spicy*- It look slike they wont be adding VCore adjustment to that board. I can recommend the Z77-D3H or Z77MX-D3H as the cheapest boards with VCore adjustment, both shoudl perform okay. The MX has MVP, while the Z77 doesn't. the MX is also mATX tho.
> *Good advice.*
> I can hit that with my 3770K very easily. Are you asking for your 3570K? You need a 3570K which can do it first of all, ussually your max OC will be like 200-300mhz higher than the OC that is stable with water/air cooling and Ivy. I could make a profile for it if you like, or just use my 4.5ghz profile and increase the multiplier.
> I have the same SSD, but the 64GB version. Are you checking to make sure the SATA mode and the boot selection is set correctly?
> Yea they should email you, or you can email them and ask for an update.
> 
> 
> 
> Would love a profile @ 4.8Ghz. Also how far do u recommend i keep the CPU for 24/7? Did not bother me having 2500K @ 1.46v for 24.7.
Click to expand...

So far it seems like the recommended voltage is about 1.35 volts for 24/7 usage. Also, Sin seems to have some decent chips... Mine is hitting 85C max in Prime95 with 4.7GHz and 1.33 volts.

Not sure how necessary a profile would be for these chips... seems like it's just a matter of bump voltage, try, bump voltage, try. There's only 1 voltage and one multiplier that needs to be changed. Far cry from my LGA775 days, messing with Skews and voltages on every damn part of the motherboard to get that last 100mhz.


----------



## Matt-Matt

What are you guys using for 3570k's? More specifically on the Z77x-D3H... I'm running stock at 4.3GHz just fine, my goal is a 4.8GHz overclock. Probably not on the Hyper 212+ though.. Depends how lucky i am


----------



## ElectricDelta

Your rig sounds a lot like mine! No real problems with default values. I did use XMP profile 2 to get my G.Skill PC3-17000 RAM up to 2133 MHz @ 1.65V, I also disabled the iGPU and 1394 in the BIOS, as I have no use for them. The USB ports seem to be picky about which ports you use for the USB-drive, if you need to flash a new BIOS. I also had to disconnect all other USB devices, except for mouse, keyboard and USB-drive, to enter and navigate the BIOS without it freezing. Once in Windows, everything runs fine, so unless you poke around in the BIOS all the time, it's not a hassle at all. I expect a BIOS update will cure the flakiness related to USB.


----------



## robiatti

I had to use profile 2 as well. But my volts are at 1.6. Could be different chips.


----------



## CallsignVega

This is one of my favorite motherboards ever. Doing some setup:


----------



## DBEAU

^^ That looks awesome! I originally wanted the sniper but the UD5H is very nice too. Very nice


----------



## BobLeProf

F8c seemed to be doing fine for me w/o any adjustments in BCLK and w/ C3/C6 on auto. That is until I filled out my rig info for this forum and my Chrome browser crashed! I love irony. It had been stable for several days under F7 with BCLK at 101.1 and C3/C6 disabled. Without those adjustments, I had been occasionally crashing (the mouse cursor continued to work but everything else was frozen). I am using Win8 CP, so I do have to assume the browser issue could be due to that, though I had been using win8 for some time on a P55A-UD4P without trouble. (I really shouldn't be using a beta OS on a new rig anyway. My only real issue with Win8 on this rig has been with the Intel USB 3.0 header not recognizing a Corsair USB 3.0 flash drive with the Win8 built-in USB 3.0 driver. The same header is working fine under Windows 7 with the drivers downloaded from GB.) In any case, I'll be installing Win8 Release Preview in a couple of weeks and hoping that will clear up the very few, very minor problems.

I have to say that this is a great forum. I've been following since I started my build, and I am very thankful for all the good advice.

Bob


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> This is one of my favorite motherboards ever. Doing some setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that a Raystorm copper block? Looks awesome. Haven't decided yet if they're worth the money, let us know what kind of temps you get.
Also there's a Sniper 3 owners thread on the forum if you didn't know.


----------



## mandrix

Has anyone been doing any actual physical voltage measurements? My radiator/fans in the way and I can't really get to that corner. Gonna change that this week, though, and put the rad on top the case.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Looks good Vega


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Has anyone been doing any actual physical voltage measurements? My radiator/fans in the way and I can't really get to that corner. Gonna change that this week, though, and put the rad on top the case.


I have, and the voltage is totally different than what the apps like CPU-Z are telling me, don't trust any of those.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I have, and the voltage is totally different than what the apps like CPU-Z are telling me, don't trust any of those.


Is there a trend? Like too much, not enough, or all over the place?


----------



## brothergc

wow I gotta say I am starting to like this UD3 mobo , I was on a asrock p67 and with just swapping motherboards I am noticing a major increase in speed . Compaired to the asrock Gigabyte has a ton more tweaking options . I just love the PWM power tweaking optiosn . I was a little unstable in AHCI mode , I enabled hot swap for my samsung sata 2.0 hdd and that seemed to realy help for some unknown reason , must be the HDD firmware I guess . or maybe the drivers ? I did notice gigabytes MEI driver has some kinda cloud feature so I dumped those driver and headed straight to intel and grapped their drivers for from their latest z77 motherboard . That got rid of that service







Was concerned because that could possibly be a sercuriy hole . Probaly fine but took no chances as I have no need of any cloud service anyway..
Hope this might help someone


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Has anyone been doing any actual physical voltage measurements? My radiator/fans in the way and I can't really get to that corner. Gonna change that this week, though, and put the rad on top the case.


My programs have been real accurate except for VTT, which is 0.015v higher than reported in software or UEFI. But on the rest the board shows 0.002~0.005v higher. I've only been using LLC Turbo or Extreme.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Is there a trend? Like too much, not enough, or all over the place?


The trend would be the software showing lower than the multimeter, but I haven't done a lot of comparison because one I realized this was an issue I immediately stopped using software for reading the vcore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> My programs have been real accurate except for VTT, which is 0.015v higher than reported in software or UEFI. But on the rest the board shows 0.002~0.005v higher. I've only been using LLC Turbo or Extreme.


What programs are those? I used CPU-Z, and for a short time I used Easytune 6 which was unstable but the vcore readings matched what was in CPU-Z.


----------



## Sin0822

mandrix:

Here are my results i posted them a few times in this thread:
Z77X-UD5H @ 1.4v and 4.5ghz


Here i tested for the UD3H:
Z77X-UD3H @ 1.45v and 4.5ghz


Higher frequency and voltage will put a slightly higher push on LLC.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Yeap ..same here and yes i had to make few changes in my OC like different LLC and Phase + about .03v more ,so far so good


Hey did phase to extreme perf really help? LIke if you change to auto will it not be as stable?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Would love a profile @ 4.8Ghz. Also how far do u recommend i keep the CPU for 24/7? Did not bother me having 2500K @ 1.46v for 24.7.


Keep volts under 1.35v, and temps under 85C for max peak.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x123x*
> 
> my z77x-ud3h on F8 and F9 won't boot from anything (pendrive, HDD, SDD, DVD), loop logo screen, on F7 boot from everything correctly, on F10 boot from everything but not from SSD samsung 830.


Can you just use F7 Then? If you don't have any other issues then use BIOS F7. I will ask if they made any changes, because my drive works fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yep got an email this morning, Gigabyte sending my board back via UPS, should be here Friday. Form just said 'RMA Repaired Shipping Notice Doc." so I'm hoping for the best. No charges were mentioned.


Good to hear! I hope they fixed it up for you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robiatti*
> 
> I Think I may be one of few UD5H owners that has nothing to complain about.
> So, I decided to give the beta bios F8c a try . So far so good.
> I am able to run my 3570k on auto voltage at 4.5Ghz. something that was not possible before.
> As far as stability goes, it seems fine Played Diablo 3 for a couple hours last night and no problems.
> Ran BF3 for a while as well. no issues.


Lol you are part of the majority of owners who doesn't have much to complain about, they just don't post about it. lol in all honesty, i think if you know how to build a system and are familiar with how to set it up you wont have issues. Some people screw things up on their own end, either because they don't know or are very new to building computers. Sometimes there are real issues but they get sorted out. I am glad you are fine.

If anyone else has an issue, that is what this thread is for, so users can post their problem, and then users like me and others can help, and if we can't help then i and a few others have the ability to report to GB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> I am not going to be overclocking mine at all. I'll have an i7-3770k CPU in it and a PNY GTX 580. Are there any issues with the board settings at stock defaults? I haven't finished constructing my PC but I want to be aware of any problems I might face before the fact.
> Thanks in advance.


No there aren't. If you do have issues please post here or private message me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So far it seems like the recommended voltage is about 1.35 volts for 24/7 usage. Also, Sin seems to have some decent chips... Mine is hitting 85C max in Prime95 with 4.7GHz and 1.33 volts.
> Not sure how necessary a profile would be for these chips... seems like it's just a matter of bump voltage, try, bump voltage, try. There's only 1 voltage and one multiplier that needs to be changed. Far cry from my LGA775 days, messing with Skews and voltages on every damn part of the motherboard to get that last 100mhz.


Good advice:thumb:
Yea it really is very simple isn't it? and yes 1.35v is what i think most people agree on is max 24/7. Yea haha P55, X58 and now you have iyv. Of course there are people like us how like the challenge, and then others who are new or scared by the new platform. Profiles are nice idea tho, and I intend to take full advantage of them! Yea one issue is my CPU is freaking great haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> What are you guys using for 3570k's? More specifically on the Z77x-D3H... I'm running stock at 4.3GHz just fine, my goal is a 4.8GHz overclock. Probably not on the Hyper 212+ though.. Depends how lucky i am


Nice man! yea hyper 212+ not gonna do 4.8 lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> How does changing the turbo power limit (watts) or core current limit (amps) help in overclocking?
> Are they interelated? If I increase the limits on 1 value while decrease the limits in another, does the system go with the more conservative values?


If you use turbo then they can extend the amount of power being used, and not limit the OC. Would max both of them out, but don't make watt lower than current. I set 300 on each if I use turbo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61*
> 
> Thanks Sin0822 for the recommendation.


Yea man, I am sorry for what happened to you. If the retailer wont want to replace it or RMA, then you might want to contact GB, they might be able to help you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Since i got the Ivy i have been constantly tweaking the bios and i have to say that most stability tests don't apply to this chip ...i was P95, Hyper PI ,LinX stable until i start playing BF3 ,don't know if this is due to the new Tri-Gate Transistor or what, but CPU intensive games like BF3 can bring this processor to its knees ,just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sin can you explain the GFX thing ..or ask GB about it
> Thanks


Yea some programs hit certain parts of the CPU that stress tests do not, or might take very a long time. That is why Intel sometimes recommends using odd programs for stability like ADIA64 with AVX. Usually it is for money for ADIA, but sometimes there is a reason.

What is the GFX issue?


----------



## homestyle

When increasing multi to overclock, what do you all do with the 1, 2, 3 core active turbo?


----------



## Snakes

With my overclocking/undervolting it seems I can pass Intel Burntest and Prime95 small FFTs fairly easily but I keep failing large FFT. Overclocking much without a lowered vcore gives me temps too high so for now I've given up on overclocking. Sticking with the default bios settings which allow it to go to 3.8GHz, that'll do. I'm thinking about reseating the heatsink just in case that helps. I had never intended to go past 4GHz so 3.8 isn't that bad.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> My programs have been real accurate except for VTT, which is 0.015v higher than reported in software or UEFI. But on the rest the board shows 0.002~0.005v higher. I've only been using LLC Turbo or Extreme.


Cool, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> The trend would be the software showing lower than the multimeter, but I haven't done a lot of comparison because one I realized this was an issue I immediately stopped using software for reading the vcore.
> What programs are those? I used CPU-Z, and for a short time I used Easytune 6 which was unstable but the vcore readings matched what was in CPU-Z.


OK, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> mandrix:
> Here are my results i posted them a few times in this thread:
> Z77X-UD5H @ 1.4v and 4.5ghz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here i tested for the UD3H:
> Z77X-UD3H @ 1.45v and 4.5ghz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Higher frequency and voltage will put a slightly higher push on LLC.


Sure, but you're only one data point and I wanted to see some more samples.







Besides, all your voltages are up on the high end, you crazy overclocker!
Anyway gonna move my radiator this week, -got mod fever anyway- so I'll be able to do some manual checks by end of week I hope.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> mandrix:
> 
> Here are my results i posted them a few times in this thread:
> Z77X-UD5H @ 1.4v and 4.5ghz
> 
> 
> Here i tested for the UD3H:
> Z77X-UD3H @ 1.45v and 4.5ghz
> 
> 
> Higher frequency and voltage will put a slightly higher push on LLC.


That chart makes me feel so much better. I wanted to stay below 1.35... and me running 1.3v with LLC Extreme puts me somewhere below 1.35


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Lol you are part of the majority of owners who doesn't have much to complain about, they just don't post about it. lol in all honesty, i think if you know how to build a system and are familiar with how to set it up you wont have issues. Some people screw things up on their own end, either because they don't know or are very new to building computers. Sometimes there are real issues but they get sorted out. I am glad you are fine.
> If anyone else has an issue, that is what this thread is for, so users can post their problem, and then users like me and others can help, and if we can't help then i and a few others have the ability to report to GB.


^ This

Honestly, it's great people come here for help in a community driven support forum. But sometimes it can give false image of a products performance/quality. I've built a ton of systems over the years and these days it's easier then ever. I mean, I remember ISA slots and jumpers! My UD5H has been bulletproof out of the box, but a lot of top tier boards are.

It's just a shame good products can take on a bad image, whether they're an Asus, Gigabyte etc, due to simple user error. I mean, just read the low newegg reviews on the UD5H. It's for the lolz.

Common sense and a bit of research (google) goes a long way as a computer builder these days. It's pretty remarkable the quality of computer stuffs being put out these days


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> My programs have been real accurate except for VTT, which is 0.015v higher than reported in software or UEFI. But on the rest the board shows 0.002~0.005v higher. I've only been using LLC Turbo or Extreme.
> 
> 
> 
> What programs are those? I used CPU-Z, and for a short time I used Easytune 6 which was unstable but the vcore readings matched what was in CPU-Z.
Click to expand...

CPUZ 1.60.1, HWiNFO64 3.96.1640.

Sin, do you think adjustments should be made to correct those little overages? Knowing that most people do fine and have no idea what their real volts are, maybe not.. but I want to have an advantage with this board.


----------



## Snakes

Huh, I'm using CPU-Z 1.60.1 64Bit and getting the wrong temps vs multimeter.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> With my overclocking/undervolting it seems I can pass Intel Burntest and Prime95 small FFTs fairly easily but I keep failing large FFT. Overclocking much without a lowered vcore gives me temps too high so for now I've given up on overclocking. Sticking with the default bios settings which allow it to go to 3.8GHz, that'll do. I'm thinking about reseating the heatsink just in case that helps. I had never intended to go past 4GHz so 3.8 isn't that bad.


It couldnt' hurt to try to re-apply the paste. If you take it off you can see how well it spread onto the cpu. I remember you mentioning you're using MX-2. I'm currently using that as well and it's really thick. I've applied more than usual using it to get full coverage. People say you should fill in the gap between the pipes as well.
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5

Be sure to clean it really well and make sure you don't have any dust or small hairs on it. That, air bubbles and having just enough paste can really effect the performance. Good luck.


----------



## KillrBuckeye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> With my overclocking/undervolting it seems I can pass Intel Burntest and Prime95 small FFTs fairly easily but I keep failing large FFT. Overclocking much without a lowered vcore gives me temps too high so for now I've given up on overclocking. Sticking with the default bios settings which allow it to go to 3.8GHz, that'll do. I'm thinking about reseating the heatsink just in case that helps. I had never intended to go past 4GHz so 3.8 isn't that bad.


My understanding is that large FFTs put more stress on the RAM, whereas the small FFTs stress the CPU. You might want to try relaxing your memory settings. You could try running at the default 1333 MHz to see if it helps.


----------



## barkeater

Just flashed F7 last night and could not get into bios. On a couple of attempts I'd get partially drawn bios screen, or no mouse function. Going back to F6 for now. Not sure if anyone else having any problems with this bios but just wanted to post my experience with it.

Update: It was not F7 that was the problem. The problem was if I had my joystick plugged into one of the rear usb 3.0 ports (didn't try the 2.0 - rear) I would not be able to get access to the bios. my joystick is a Logitech Wingman Extreme Digital 3D.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Just flashed F7 last night and could not get into bios. On a couple of attempts I'd get partially drawn bios screen, or no mouse function. Going back to F6 for now. Not sure if anyone else having any problems with this bios but just wanted to post my experience with it.


Even with F6 sometimes i cant get the mouse to function, the whole system freezes and after many attempts i can changes values again. Liked the old BIOS much more.


----------



## arrow0309

*Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H-WB WiFi Motherboard Review*

Link:


----------



## homestyle

I have my 3570k and ud3h stock now. My board gets spikes up to 3.6 ghz every 3-5 seconds for a split second while idling in windows in balanced power mode.

When I switch to power saver in windows power settings, the spikes go away.

The system is idling and not doing anything. Anybody else get this? I'm measuring loads with hwinfo system summary.


----------



## DeXel

Guys, am I only one having this?


I have just my mouse and keyboard plug to USB 2.0 ports, and Bluetooth and Printer to USB 3.0..


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Guys, am I only one having this?
> 
> I have just my mouse and keyboard plug to USB 2.0 ports, and Bluetooth and Printer to USB 3.0..


Lol, I cant get my iphone 4 to charge....


----------



## Kristof

Is it possible to overclock memory on a UD3H?

I have the Samsung DDR3, which is the best memory to overclock right now.

So this morning I was able to overclock to 2133mhz and try different timings...now I cant do that anymore. It just keeps saying it failed to boot. Im using 16gb, 4x4gb of the Samsung DDR3 memory.


----------



## graywulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> I have my 3570k and ud3h stock now. My board gets spikes up to 3.6 ghz every 3-5 seconds for a split second while idling in windows in balanced power mode.
> When I switch to power saver in windows power settings, the spikes go away.
> The system is idling and not doing anything. Anybody else get this? I'm measuring loads with hwinfo system summary.


Same thing here, except with UD5H. So I just put it in Power Savings mode and tweaked all the options to my liking.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> It couldnt' hurt to try to re-apply the paste. If you take it off you can see how well it spread onto the cpu. I remember you mentioning you're using MX-2. I'm currently using that as well and it's really thick. I've applied more than usual using it to get full coverage. People say you should fill in the gap between the pipes as well.
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5
> Be sure to clean it really well and make sure you don't have any dust or small hairs on it. That, air bubbles and having just enough paste can really effect the performance. Good luck.


Yeah I am using MX-2. I felt like I did a bad job but initially felt good about my temps and figured I accidentally did a good job. I think I put too little and then when I was trying to put the fan back on the heatsink rotated and I had to rotate it again to straighten it out, I don't know if that made things worse. I have the 212 evo so there aren't gaps between the pipes. Thanks for the tips.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillrBuckeye*
> 
> My understanding is that large FFTs put more stress on the RAM, whereas the small FFTs stress the CPU. You might want to try relaxing your memory settings. You could try running at the default 1333 MHz to see if it helps.


I'm running the ram with the built-in XMP profile and it passes 6 hours of Memtest86+, it also passes 12 hours Large FFT if I leave the CPU speed on auto and vcore on auto. So I feel like the ram should be okay... I don't know if I'm assuming too much though, I'm no ram expert. Or any other kind of expert I guess! Thanks, I will keep this in mind.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Guys, am I only one having this?
> 
> I have just my mouse and keyboard plug to USB 2.0 ports, and Bluetooth and Printer to USB 3.0..
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, I cant get my iphone 4 to charge....
Click to expand...

Easy but bad fix for this... Things you should do, in order...

1. While in Windows, try unplugging the devices one by one and switching them to another port and see if it clears the error (didn't work on mine)
2. Delete the USB Root Hubs in the device manager that are getting the error, restart, and let it reinstall drivers (didn't work on mine)
3. On your task bar, click the arrow pointing up near your clock and go to customize... Scroll down in that list until you find the error for the USB hub, set it to "Hide Icon and Notifications"... BAM! No more error.

Mine did this too for some reason, and I just set it to never show the error and I haven't had a single issue with a port working yet.

Hope that helps!


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Easy but bad fix for this... Things you should do, in order...
> 1. While in Windows, try unplugging the devices one by one and switching them to another port and see if it clears the error (didn't work on mine)
> 2. Delete the USB Root Hubs in the device manager that are getting the error, restart, and let it reinstall drivers (didn't work on mine)
> 3. On your task bar, click the arrow pointing up near your clock and go to customize... Scroll down in that list until you find the error for the USB hub, set it to "Hide Icon and Notifications"... BAM! No more error.
> Mine did this too for some reason, and I just set it to never show the error and I haven't had a single issue with a port working yet.
> Hope that helps!


I have tried first two, and third is just hiding the error lol. Still, I don't know what is causing this, and I just disconnected everything but my mouse and keyboard. It still pops up.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Easy but bad fix for this... Things you should do, in order...
> 1. While in Windows, try unplugging the devices one by one and switching them to another port and see if it clears the error (didn't work on mine)
> 2. Delete the USB Root Hubs in the device manager that are getting the error, restart, and let it reinstall drivers (didn't work on mine)
> 3. On your task bar, click the arrow pointing up near your clock and go to customize... Scroll down in that list until you find the error for the USB hub, set it to "Hide Icon and Notifications"... BAM! No more error.
> Mine did this too for some reason, and I just set it to never show the error and I haven't had a single issue with a port working yet.
> Hope that helps!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried first two, and third is just hiding the error lol. Still, I don't know what is causing this, and I just disconnected everything but my mouse and keyboard. It still pops up.
Click to expand...

Did you install On/Off USB charging from the CD? Mine started once I installed that... and the USB 3.0 hub drivers from the CD. This issue has been a random bug that has plagued Vista and Win7 machines since Vista SP1 came out. It might not be an actual power surge to the USB, but could be just the way that this motherboard reports that voltage to Windows that triggers the error. All my ports work (I tested them all with a USB headset) so I disabled the error.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Did you install On/Off USB charging from the CD? Mine started once I installed that... and the USB 3.0 hub drivers from the CD. This issue has been a random bug that has plagued Vista and Win7 machines since Vista SP1 came out. It might not be an actual power surge to the USB, but could be just the way that this motherboard reports that voltage to Windows that triggers the error. All my ports work (I tested them all with a USB headset) so I disabled the error.


I actually did, and uninstalled it after reading Kristof's comment, buy I haven't rebooted yet. I will report later if it dispersals. My previous mobo did not have hub, so I haven't experienced these issues. Good to know this is not board defect.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Yeah I am using MX-2. I felt like I did a bad job but initially felt good about my temps and figured I accidentally did a good job. I think I put too little and then when I was trying to put the fan back on the heatsink rotated and I had to rotate it again to straighten it out, I don't know if that made things worse. I have the 212 evo so there aren't gaps between the pipes. Thanks for the tips.


I orignally mounted a 212+ and the temps were super high, it turned out to be the program giving me a false reading. I uninstalled it and noticed I didn't put nearly enough MX-2. I assumed it was this and the cooler so I adapted my TRUE to fit the 212+ bracket and did a test run to see the paste spread. Meaning I mounted it normally and took it out right away to inspect the spread. I ended up using more than normal.

Personally I think twisting the cooler is good to help seat it especially when using thick paste like MX-2. Ideally we want totally flush, no gaps with lots of pressure between the cpu and cooler.


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Did you install On/Off USB charging from the CD? Mine started once I installed that... and the USB 3.0 hub drivers from the CD. This issue has been a random bug that has plagued Vista and Win7 machines since Vista SP1 came out. It might not be an actual power surge to the USB, but could be just the way that this motherboard reports that voltage to Windows that triggers the error. All my ports work (I tested them all with a USB headset) so I disabled the error.


Yes, I installed and tried using every port i have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Easy but bad fix for this... Things you should do, in order...
> 1. While in Windows, try unplugging the devices one by one and switching them to another port and see if it clears the error (didn't work on mine)
> 2. Delete the USB Root Hubs in the device manager that are getting the error, restart, and let it reinstall drivers (didn't work on mine)
> 3. On your task bar, click the arrow pointing up near your clock and go to customize... Scroll down in that list until you find the error for the USB hub, set it to "Hide Icon and Notifications"... BAM! No more error.
> Mine did this too for some reason, and I just set it to never show the error and I haven't had a single issue with a port working yet.
> Hope that helps!


I dont have the error, I just cant charge my iphone 4. It is recognized, but no charge.


----------



## DaClownie

Kristof : Silly question - Did you install iTunes on the rig? My son's iPod Touch 4th Gen wouldn't charge until iTunes was installed, for whatever reason.

If it is, have you tried a different cable?


----------



## DeXel

I got that message again after uninstalling on/off usb charging. I am currently on F8c and I don't think I was getting it on F7, so maybe it is BIOS related.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I got that message again after uninstalling on/off usb charging. I am currently on F8c and I don't think I was getting it on F7, so maybe it is BIOS related.


I installed on/off USB charging last night.. I charged my Nokia E71 off it (Spare phone) still on the stock bios.. I've got no problems at all!


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Kristof : Silly question - Did you install iTunes on the rig? My son's iPod Touch 4th Gen wouldn't charge until iTunes was installed, for whatever reason.
> If it is, have you tried a different cable?


Yes, i have installed it. Yes, I have tried different cable(another apple cable). Yes, I have tried another iphone 4.

It has to be with windows i think. I read somewhere "that ever since SP1". So, idk what to do. I also tried power options.


----------



## sixor

hi guys, here on z77x udh3

f9 bios

so my mouse keeps freezing or getting disabled, what is that

i have to reenable several times


----------



## mandrix

I had those USB hub warnings about 3 weeks ago I think and posted about it. Haven't had any in quite a while but I really don't know what/if anything I did that cured it, other than making sure all drivers up to date from Intel.
I'm using the Intel USB 3.0 Extensible Host Controller Driver 1.0.4.225 which appears to be newer than the one on Gigabyte site. Try it and see if it works.


----------



## Matt-Matt

So what voltages are you guys running?


----------



## Yor_

Just recently set up my system. I'm having freezes in Windows. Any quick tips or suggestions?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> Just recently set up my system. I'm having freezes in Windows. Any quick tips or suggestions?


Update BIOS?


----------



## Yor_

It's on F8c, latest posted.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> Just recently set up my system. I'm having freezes in Windows. Any quick tips or suggestions?


My 2500k on ud5h freezes if I don't set power plan to high performance to get rid of hibernate, causes SB chips to crash with PLL overvoltage (hidden bios setting) turned on. Try it with yours, you got a IB, but it still might help. Try disabling all C states, EIST, etc and manually clock the cpu with BCLK set to 100.00 instead of auto also.


----------



## drotaru

my CPU fan voltage control is not working anymore with F8c ( UD5H ) , duno about PWM mode as i only have 3 pin fans , can anybody confirm ?


----------



## robiatti

PWM is working for me on F8c, I have a rheosmart fan controller plugged into PWM on the motherboard. And with this my fan profile is working as intended. During Linx / Gaming I hear and see the fans increase / decrease with temps.

Not sure about voltage mode though.


----------



## stasio

UD5H F8d is out.


----------



## KillrBuckeye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I'm running the ram with the built-in XMP profile and it passes 6 hours of Memtest86+, it also passes 12 hours Large FFT if I leave the CPU speed on auto and vcore on auto. So I feel like the ram should be okay... I don't know if I'm assuming too much though, I'm no ram expert. Or any other kind of expert I guess! Thanks, I will keep this in mind.


All I'm saying is that despite what you've observed at stock CPU speeds, it might be worth relaxing the memory settings to see if your CPU overclock improves. You would reap far more benefit from a higher CPU speed and lower memory speed than the reverse.


----------



## spluff

Hi all,

I have just build a new system with a Z77x-UD3H motherboard and have a quick question:-

The marvell rear esata ports do not seem to work - I have installed Marvell eSATA Controller Driver (1.2.0.1010), enabled as AHCI mode - there is no device in device manager for this and my external icybox 1tb hd doesnt work (this works ok via usb)

1. Should there be a marvell device in system properties?

2. What can I do to fix this problem?

Many thanks


----------



## Kitarist

So how is stability on these boards?


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> So how is stability on these boards?


For me it's been very reliable. There were a couple of minor quirks early on, but they were fixed with a BIOS update. I've been folding on this machine (Silent Screamer III) pretty much non-stop for the past few weeks.


----------



## crimsonspark

btw, are there any complications when running on stock settings?


----------



## isidore

Hy everyone, i just signed up, cause i have a question regarding the z77x ud5h. It's working great, managed to OC my 2500k to 4.8ghz without a problem, running the latest official bios. The "problem" (if i can call it that) is that sometimes (don't know if it has a pattern or is random) when i boot up my PC the motherboard restarts 2 times and dysplays a blue UEFI bios screen and after that it loads windows. Don't get an error message or something.
Is that normal behavior? Does the motherboard have a system check or something?


----------



## drotaru

thats not normal, you should try the newest beta bios and see if it fixes it F8d


----------



## isidore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> thats not normal, you should try the newest beta bios and see if it fixes it F8d


Hy, yeah i thought so too, i'll try the latest beta..thx


----------



## robiatti

Please let us know how F8d bios is. Currently Using F8c and all is good. But for others not so much.


----------



## isidore

The update went smooth, from q flash. My old oc settings work without a problem, i have to see now if my problem still persists.


----------



## robiatti

Thanks For reporting back. Hopefully your problem was resolved with the new bios.


----------



## isidore

either it was a bios issue or i had some issue with my ram's, my command rate was sate to 1t instead of 2t. i changed that too.


----------



## craney

Hi guys i was just wondering if someone could lend me a hand setting up LLC on my Z77X-D3H board. I have it set to auto at the mo but i have overclocked my i5 2500k to 4ghz and manually set the vcore to 1.25 in the bios, i have also left on the downclocking tools like spped step etc on auto. Anyway when i start playing a demanding game i notice the vcore drops to around 1.118 at times which from what i gather is normal vdroop. I thought LLC might help my voltage stay at around the 1.25v mark if i increased it to high and ran another demanding game and it seemed to keep it around the 1.25v mark. The problem was i found it to give me more choppy gameplay than when i left it on auto and let the voltage drop

Just wondered if anyone else has any experience with LLC on this board. I am running bios F6 at the mo just for the record. Hope someone can help me out

Cheers guys


----------



## homestyle

I'm trying to overclock the cpu as high as it would go on stock (auto) voltages.

It's fine with a 43 multi. Vcore scales down from 0.92 to 1.128. But when I increase the multi to 44, the vcore goes to 1.34 on load.

Any ideas?


----------



## samwiches

Yes, homestyle: don't use auto Vcore. That's what happens---crazy voltages for no good reason.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> I'm trying to overclock the cpu as high as it would go on stock (auto) voltages.
> It's fine with a 43 multi. Vcore scales down from 0.92 to 1.128. But when I increase the multi to 44, the vcore goes to 1.34 on load.
> Any ideas?


That is svid nothing you can do about it other than setting vcore manually. that is Intels tech to allow oc with auto volts
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> Hi guys i was just wondering if someone could lend me a hand setting up LLC on my Z77X-D3H board. I have it set to auto at the mo but i have overclocked my i5 2500k to 4ghz and manually set the vcore to 1.25 in the bios, i have also left on the downclocking tools like spped step etc on auto. Anyway when i start playing a demanding game i notice the vcore drops to around 1.118 at times which from what i gather is normal vdroop. I thought LLC might help my voltage stay at around the 1.25v mark if i increased it to high and ran another demanding game and it seemed to keep it around the 1.25v mark. The problem was i found it to give me more choppy gameplay than when i left it on auto and let the voltage drop
> Just wondered if anyone else has any experience with LLC on this board. I am running bios F6 at the mo just for the record. Hope someone can help me out
> Cheers guys


Set llc to turbo.

[quote name="isidore" url="/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/
1510#post_17318037"]either it was a bios issue or i had some issue with my ram's, my command rate was sate to 1t instead of 2t. i changed that too.[/quote]
yes that will do it. lol also make sure windows is fully updated. also you still have to set memory voltage even if xmp is enabled.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> So what voltages are you guys running?


4.7 HT off 1.260 fixed (BF3 stable ,P95,LinX) and 4.7 +.080 High LLC Offset Mode /67C max under load /80F ambient
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> Just recently set up my system. I'm having freezes in Windows. Any quick tips or suggestions?


try to raise your Vcore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> UD5H F8d is out.


Thanks will flash in few and report back







(hoping for better PCS compatibility)


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Yes, homestyle: don't use auto Vcore. That's what happens---crazy voltages for no good reason.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> That is svid nothing you can do about it other than setting vcore manually. that is Intels tech to allow oc with auto volts


I want to have power savings enabled and the vcore to throttle down under idle with an overclock 4.4+

If I manually set vcore, dvid becomes disabled.

Do I set vcore to normal?

What does dvid control? Is the negative voltage the amount I want it to throttle down or is it how much I want to take away from the 1.32 auto vcore?


----------



## sixor

using f11a on the ud3h

hey guys what is the safe temp for ivy

60-70-80, what is the max safe


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> using f11a on the ud3h
> hey guys what is the safe temp for ivy
> 60-70-80, what is the max safe


According to Intel 67.4.... TJ Max is 105 though.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> SYS_FAN1 is also PWM. The rest I won't check just yet, cause my Rheosmart controller cable won't reach them anyway.


So far I'm only able to get 2 fans to speed control with speedfan.... cpu fan and sys fan 1.

speedfan shows a third pwm3. anyone know how to get that 3rd fan controlled?


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Yes, homestyle: don't use auto Vcore. That's what happens---crazy voltages for no good reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> That is svid nothing you can do about it other than setting vcore manually. that is Intels tech to allow oc with auto volts
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I want to have power savings enabled and the vcore to throttle down under idle with an overclock 4.4+
> 
> If I manually set vcore, dvid becomes disabled.
> 
> Do I set vcore to normal?
> 
> What does dvid control? Is the negative voltage the amount I want it to throttle down or is it how much I want to take away from the 1.32 auto vcore?
Click to expand...

Set Vcore at normal and use DVID. If you set the offset it at 0.000 it will sort of do what Vcore at Auto should do; it sets the voltage automatically based on the chip's speed and VID. Normally you will need to raise it when overclocking. The offset is whatever additional voltage you want applied to the VID.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> SYS_FAN1 is also PWM. The rest I won't check just yet, cause my Rheosmart controller cable won't reach them anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> So far I'm only able to get 2 fans to speed control with speedfan.... cpu fan and sys fan 1.
> 
> speedfan shows a third pwm3. anyone know how to get that 3rd fan controlled?
Click to expand...

PWM1 and PWM3 both seem to control CPU_FAN for me.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Please report (F8d) ;XMP profile on F3-17600CL7D-4GBPIS is still no go @ 2200


manage to get CL8-11-8 @2400 (loose timings,will tweak some more this weekend)

here is tRP 9



EDIT;
Quote:


> *GA-Z77X-UD5H - F8d
> 
> - Fix USB keyboard such as Logitech G510 or Corsair
> - Power On / Off Fix
> - DRAM, VTT and PLL Voltage Fix
> - 24.May* 12


----------



## homestyle

What does quick or expert change in the dram timing selectable.

And what does performance enhance do? (normal, turbo, extreme)


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> I want to have power savings enabled and the vcore to throttle down under idle with an overclock 4.4+
> If I manually set vcore, dvid becomes disabled.
> Do I set vcore to normal?
> What does dvid control? Is the negative voltage the amount I want it to throttle down or is it how much I want to take away from the 1.32 auto vcore?


DVID which is done by setting vcore to normal and then setting an offset, allows your CPU to get more voltage added to the VID during load, while also allowing it to drop down to its minimium voltage during idle. In your case your VID is pretty high at your OC, so try a negative DVID offset.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> using f11a on the ud3h
> hey guys what is the safe temp for ivy
> 60-70-80, what is the max safe


I would say between 80C-90C for full 100% load with like IBT or P95, Intel doesn't use either programs, and nothing stresses like those two, so id say if you are going to use either then that is your max temp under load. BTW Intel doesn't use either because it is like beating up your CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> What does quick or expert change in the dram timing selectable.
> And what does performance enhance do? (normal, turbo, extreme)


Quick allows you to set one set of timings for all 4 DIMMs, while expert allows separate adjustment of timings per channel.
Performance enhance IDK supposedly it helps some efieicny somewhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Please report (F8d) ;XMP profile on F3-17600CL7D-4GBPIS is still no go @ 2200
> 
> manage to get CL8-11-8 @2400 (loose timings,will tweak some more this weekend)
> here is tRP 9
> 
> EDIT;


Yea I think they are still working on the memory compatibility, they had some other issues that are further up on the list. When you say no go, it wont go at all even with XMP and manual voltage selection?


----------



## homestyle

I'm reading the manual, but it lacks in describing it well.

What does pwm phase control do in real terms?

Does vcore voltage response (standard or fast) make a difference for anything?

Receommended settigns for LLC? (I want vcore to throttle down during idle)


----------



## Sin0822

just use DVID and the vcore will throttle down during idle, the LLC wont affect it much.

Phase control determines whether the VRM will work to favor efficiency or performance, so extreme performance can result in a warmer VRM, but might be good for Ln2 OC.

Voltage response determines how fast the voltage changes for different load states. You might want to leave that on fast. but leave phase performance on auto.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Yeah i didn't know what came with this F8d (edited) and yes with XMP and manual voltage ,will have to wait little longer ..


----------



## Matt-Matt

Has anyone else had problems with their 3D bios? I prefer it as it's laid out in a simpler manner for myself, anyway i can't change my voltage in it. Only fixed voltage :/

I've got the latest F8, i've tried the stock F5 and i've tried F6 also. Yet to try F7.. I don't want to have to save all my profiles again then load them all back up though


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Yeah i didn't know what came with this F8d (edited) and yes with XMP and manual voltage ,will have to wait little longer ..


Ill give it a push.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Has anyone else had problems with their 3D bios? I prefer it as it's laid out in a simpler manner for myself, anyway i can't change my voltage in it. Only fixed voltage :/
> I've got the latest F8, i've tried the stock F5 and i've tried F6 also. Yet to try F7.. I don't want to have to save all my profiles again then load them all back up though


you are using the D3H? I don't have that board, tried the latest beta on TT forums?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Has anyone else had problems with their 3D bios? I prefer it as it's laid out in a simpler manner for myself, anyway i can't change my voltage in it. Only fixed voltage :/
> I've got the latest F8, i've tried the stock F5 and i've tried F6 also. Yet to try F7.. I don't want to have to save all my profiles again then load them all back up though


i had similar issue with F7 but today when i flash to F8d it worked ..this BIOSes are still work in progress just go Advance and change

EDIT;@ Sin it's a OK i don't think i make the XS 32M thing ..short weekend and have to work around the house ..still don't have stripped OS


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> i had similar issue with F7 but today when i flash to F8d it worked ..this *BIOSes are still work in progress* just go Advance and change
> EDIT;@ Sin it's a OK i don't think i make the XS 32M thing ..short weekend and have to work around the house ..still don't have stripped OS


Yeah, I guessed that once I'd gotten a few bugs. This is the first time I've owned a new motherboard, same with CPU.
I'm kind of annoyed that the Z77x-D3H is the last motherboard to get a bios update, it's still on F8 (version 1). Whereas others are on F10 etc. Fair to say i'm keen for the update!


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Heys guys, its been a bit since I have been on here. 2 questions, one of which im sure is somewhere on here already, but I haven't been on this thread since it was only like 30 pages. lol. First, has there been a BIOS that has fixed the sleep issues with 2600K at over 40x on UD5H? Im running x45 and would really like to use sleep. Second, and much more important question, I have RAID 0 Samsung 830's in this machine, and they have been AMAZING. I know intel just worked out TRIM on some of their boards, does that mean it will soon come to this board, is it already available for this board? I'm new to SSD's and although I know what TRIM does, I have no idea about SSD's in RAID 0. Thanks!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> i had similar issue with F7 but today when i flash to F8d it worked ..this BIOSes are still work in progress just go Advance and change
> EDIT;@ Sin it's a OK i don't think i make the XS 32M thing ..short weekend and have to work around the house ..still don't have stripped OS


I think the XS thing ends august first lol. Also you might wanna work on your efficiency, you are up against like Wr holders and it is going to be a last minute event where you see everyone post their best score on 11:55pm on july 31st LOL. I tried with 2400mhz cas9, tightened up all the tertiary and secondary timings T1 of course, and i went to 2500mhz, and i still only got 6:23. I think you gotta do some cooling on the memory or else you wont make like top 10 in a few days lol. I had everything right in terms of efficiency too, right wazza, right BCLK, right LCS, right maxxmem, and all the stupid little tweaks. I am going to try some high speed next, I think perhaps that like 2600+ with cas 9 or 10 but looser secondaries is better than cas 9 or even maybe 8 at 2400-2500.

I am not a big bencher myself, i don't like tweaking anything so i like benchmarks like wprime. Like right here:

i just did that 2 days ago. I should probably push memory more tho, time permitting(gotta do sniper 3 review hahaha).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Heys guys, its been a bit since I have been on here. 2 questions, one of which im sure is somewhere on here already, but I haven't been on this thread since it was only like 30 pages. lol. First, has there been a BIOS that has fixed the sleep issues with 2600K at over 40x on UD5H? Im running x45 and would really like to use sleep. Second, and much more important question, I have RAID 0 Samsung 830's in this machine, and they have been AMAZING. I know intel just worked out TRIM on some of their boards, does that mean it will soon come to this board, is it already available for this board? I'm new to SSD's and although I know what TRIM does, I have no idea about SSD's in RAID 0. Thanks!


I have a BIOS currently that has Cpu PLl Overvoltage enable/disable but i cannot release it. i tested it and it seems to work, IDK why they haven't it in a release BIOS yet. I was told that it will be in there however.
TRIM is software, if Intel implements it then your board will definitively pass along the command.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Yeah, I guessed that once I'd gotten a few bugs. This is the first time I've owned a new motherboard, same with CPU.
> I'm kind of annoyed that the Z77x-D3H is the last motherboard to get a bios update, it's still on F8 (version 1). Whereas others are on F10 etc. Fair to say i'm keen for the update!


hopefully soon mate!


----------



## Sin0822

BTW did you guys see this: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2379362


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Yeah, I guessed that once I'd gotten a few bugs. This is the first time I've owned a new motherboard, same with CPU.
> I'm kind of annoyed that the Z77x-D3H is the last motherboard to get a bios update, it's still on F8 (version 1). Whereas others are on F10 etc. Fair to say i'm keen for the update!


I am sure you should be higher than that. Let me check it.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I have a BIOS currently that has Cpu PLl Overvoltage enable/disable but i cannot release it. i tested it and it seems to work, IDK why they haven't it in a release BIOS yet. I was told that it will be in there however.
> TRIM is software, if Intel implements it then your board will definitively pass along the command.


Ok, well I know this version of intel rapid storage should support TRIM in RAID, but it only lists out Intel boards as being "valid products". I guess my question is would this driver work for me? (If it were actually my PC I would just try it, but its my dads PC and i don't want problems....


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I am sure you should be higher than that. Let me check it.


I've checked, I don't know how happy I'd feel with beta bios drivers either..
I can't get my CPU past 4.6GHz on an offset of +0.120.. Which peaks at about 78c depending.. Do you guys think i should get a better cooler? I have the money..


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Ok, well I know this version of intel rapid storage should support TRIM in RAID, but it only lists out Intel boards as being "valid products". I guess my question is would this driver work for me? (If it were actually my PC I would just try it, but its my dads PC and i don't want problems....


Yes it will work for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> I've checked, I don't know how happy I'd feel with beta bios drivers either..
> I can't get my CPU past 4.6GHz on an offset of +0.120.. Which peaks at about 78c depending.. Do you guys think i should get a better cooler? I have the money..


Yea perhaps a better cooler, or maybe a decent water cooler, but don't expect miracles. you are going to be talking about a few C, it might help.; Try dropping your CPU PLL to 1.6v.

Also try the betas, they are really great, and you can always flash back to a normal BIOS. I always use BETAs.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Yes it will work for you.
> Yea perhaps a better cooler, or maybe a decent water cooler, but don't expect miracles. you are going to be talking about a few C, it might help.; Try dropping your CPU PLL to 1.6v.
> Also try the betas, they are really great, and you can always flash back to a normal BIOS. I always use BETAs.


Will do!
Okay, just checked and i'm getting 86c in realtemp with Prime95 small FFT's..
I was considering an XSPC kit, but i've decided it's too much. I'm stuck between the NH-D14 or a Havik 140.. The Havik is $10 cheaper


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Will do!
> Okay, just checked and i'm getting 86c in realtemp with Prime95 small FFT's..
> I was considering an XSPC kit, but i've decided it's too much. I'm stuck between the NH-D14 or a Havik 140.. The Havik is $10 cheaper


You want to try latest BIOS from UD3H?
I have also D3H and always running this two.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> You want to try latest BIOS from UD3H?
> I have also D3H and always running this two.


Does that actually work? I don't really want to brick the board... I just got it


----------



## homestyle

I'm trying to attain the most power efficient overclock possible.

Does auto on an overclock/voltage setting always go to the safest selection?


----------



## drotaru

nope , it generaly overcompensates and thats not good

Best is to find it manualy bit by bit and then turn on the power saving and down-clock options ( im guessing that what you mean by efficient  )


----------



## homestyle

Let's say I want 1.2 volts to the cpu during load. Here's 2 scenarios, which would be better in terms of power efficiency and longevity?

1. vcore normal @ 1.25.... dvid @ -0.05.....llc @ extreme

2. vcore normal @ 1.25.....dvid @ 0.00.....llc @ auto


----------



## Sin0822

LLC @ auto usually goes to Turbo. However to be 100% sure you need to check the voltages with a multimeter. However the difference in your example is negligible. Maybe less than a fraction of a watt.

the end result is probably the same, with the load voltage being compensated for with LLC extreme(voltage will rise under load), and not being compensated for with just normal. You need to find out the load voltage, best way is with a multi meter, and your board has beautiful voltage read points, just do it and then you will be pleased, it gives you the accuracy it seems you desire for making sure everything is perfect.

If you try DVID at -0.05v and LLC turbo are you not stable? In my opinion the not on auto might be a bit better, since LLC is proportional to the load, so it might be lower.

Also don't set limits on the power consumption, if you really want to be efficient set the PWm phase to low.

BTW MATT-Matt- Stasio is the GIGABYTE BIOS king, i trust him. He gets all these BIOSes and he knows what he is doing







you wont Bork your board, and if you do, you have dual BIOS.


----------



## homestyle

I'm also trying to wrap my head around the *pwm phase control* and *vcore voltage response* setting.

These are new settings to me in overclocking.

pwm phase control: I'm not sure how this offers power savings. vcore, llc, eist, cxe is everything you need to get power savings. If I have everything dialed in with vcore, llc, eist, and cxe with vcore and the multi throttling down in my overclock, how does this setting change anything? I'll get to the point where I have minimum voltages for my overclock and the vcore and multi throttling during idle. So what's left?

vcore voltage response: the vcore should respond to the cpu. I never knew vcore responding slowly affect stability. What is this for?


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Does that actually work? I don't really want to brick the board... I just got it


It's nothing to brick,just flash as usuall.


















Tried also BIOS for UD5H on my D3H (but must disable one Lan in BIOS).


----------



## spluff

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

I updated th BIOS to the latest F9 as I thought it may sort out my Marvell controller not working at all.

When I go to re-install Windows 7 - the first step where it asks for Country the USB doesnt work - my leyboard and mouse dont work!

If I boot normally into Windows 7 they work fine.

Would this issue be caused by upgrading bios? If so what should I do?

Can someone confirm my Marvell problem please


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BTW did you guys see this: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2379362


Wow, 108,2 of Bclk
















How?


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Wow, 108,2 of Bclk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How?


So far I found 115.75 ........from Sin0822









http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6263/15113847.jpg


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Wow, 108,2 of Bclk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How?
> 
> 
> 
> So far I found 115.75 ........from Sin0822
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6263/15113847.jpg
Click to expand...

That's an alien bclk









108Mhz would be enough for me if they're stable


----------



## Resilga

Hi I was here around page 100-105 with some locking issues and SIN's suggestion fixed them (increasing cpu voltage to 1.22) and somehow even though NOTHING HAS CHANGED, I'm starting to get locking issues.

Now, though, it's only when left idle for a bit, like watching Netflix or afk listening to an mp3 player. It will eventually just freeze and then restart with the mouse (Steelseries Sensei) "unplugged". Works fine when plugged back in.

Often if I restart immediately after a lock, it will lock again in 5 minutes or so, but after a longer break it will not lock. My temps hover around 50c and my gpu (GTX 470) around 70c so I do not think it is a full blown overheat issue. They are very hot and I'm looking into that but that wouldn't cause locks. I have a UD5H btw and the Ivybridge i5 (3.3).

I don't know what info I can give in order to better explain my problem but just know that I can play games for hours without it freezing. It freezes at really lame times like when idle for 20 mins or so.

Also I have all "energy saving" features on Win7 turned off. No sleep modes or screen shutdowns or lowering of performance.

PLEASE help. I'm also using F5 and care not to flash bios because of this.


----------



## mandrix

Has anyone been able to get x26 from G Skill F3-2400C10D-8GTX ram? No matter how I loosen the timings it won't boot at 2600. Supposedly TweakTown loosened the timings slightly and was able to boot up with 2T CR but I got nothing.
At stock Profile 1 settings I get Read=23311 Write=23530 Copy=27490 Latency=32.2 and the kit has been rock solid stable.
If someone has settings they would share including any voltage tweaks I would much appreciate. I'm running cpu OC x45 at present, FWIW.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Does that actually work? I don't really want to brick the board... I just got it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's nothing to brick,just flash as usuall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried also BIOS for UD5H on my D3H (but must disable one Lan in BIOS).
Click to expand...

How are these? I have a hard time reaching 4500.. still looking for answers below 1.28v.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> How are these? I have a hard time reaching 4500.. still looking for answers below 1.28v.


I just had to bump my offset back to +0.120.. It froze after 2 hours of BF3








So hopefully it's fine now, funny thing is 20 rounds of IBT don't hiccup?


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> How are these? I have a hard time reaching 4500.. still looking for answers below 1.28v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to bump my offset back to +0.120.. It froze after 2 hours of BF3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So hopefully it's fine now, funny thing is 20 rounds of IBT don't hiccup?
Click to expand...

Had to raise it from what previous offset? Going from F9 to F11b?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resilga*
> 
> Hi I was here around page 100-105 with some locking issues and SIN's suggestion fixed them (increasing cpu voltage to 1.22) and somehow even though NOTHING HAS CHANGED, I'm starting to get locking issues.
> Now, though, it's only when left idle for a bit, like watching Netflix or afk listening to an mp3 player. It will eventually just freeze and then restart with the mouse (Steelseries Sensei) "unplugged". Works fine when plugged back in.
> Often if I restart immediately after a lock, it will lock again in 5 minutes or so, but after a longer break it will not lock. My temps hover around 50c and my gpu (GTX 470) around 70c so I do not think it is a full blown overheat issue. They are very hot and I'm looking into that but that wouldn't cause locks. I have a UD5H btw and the Ivybridge i5 (3.3).
> I don't know what info I can give in order to better explain my problem but just know that I can play games for hours without it freezing. It freezes at really lame times like when idle for 20 mins or so.
> Also I have all "energy saving" features on Win7 turned off. No sleep modes or screen shutdowns or lowering of performance.
> PLEASE help. I'm also using F5 and care not to flash bios because of this.


please update your BIOS as F5 is old, they have improved the stability with newer BIOSes. Don't worry just update it through qflash, if you do not know how I can tell you how. Also try taking BCLK to 100.00 set, not auto, auto sets it to like 100.9 which causes 90% of the stability issues, the other 10% are caused by un updated windows installations, as if you go right now and change your BCLK then it will help, if it doesn't you can switch to a windows XP install and you wont have the BDOS anymore. Jut update your BIOS man, do not be scared. Even if you crash in the BIOS during BIOS flash, which you wont, then you have dual BIOS.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> That's an alien bclk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 108Mhz would be enough for me if they're stable


there is also this: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2333386 lol


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Had to raise it from what previous offset? Going from F9 to F11b?


perhaps auto LLC has been lowered.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> I just had to bump my offset back to +0.120.. It froze after 2 hours of BF3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So hopefully it's fine now, funny thing is 20 rounds of IBT don't hiccup?


yea it seem BF3 stresses the CPU is different ways than IBT and P95. Try the latest AIDA64 stress test.


----------



## crimsonspark

okay, will receive the last items i'll need to build my machine, btw, are there problems on stock settings, sin? if there are, what are the necessary steps/solutions to avoid those problems?


----------



## Yor_

I've done pretty much everything I found on this forum and on the internet and I still can't get freezing /lockups/BSOD to stop


----------



## threevok

Can you try a different drive?


----------



## ChrisB17

My bios set my bclk on 100.10 and its never had a issue since day one. I have stressed my 4.3ghz for 30 hrs or prime+avx. And my PC dominates BF3 no issues.







:thumb:


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> I've done pretty much everything I found on this forum and on the internet and I still can't get freezing /lockups/BSOD to stop


It would help if you listed the things you have tried. For instance, set bclk to 100.0. Also, you may want to post any error messages if bsod; system error log, etc. Another way to trouble shoot if you have a working system; say your old computer still around you could try and start swapping parts one by one. Another way to trouble shoot is to strip your system down to minimal components at default settings and see how things go from there. You never mentioned what, if any changes you have made in the bios (i.e., are you using xmp profile, etc.).


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimsonspark*
> 
> okay, will receive the last items i'll need to build my machine, btw, are there problems on stock settings, sin? if there are, what are the necessary steps/solutions to avoid those problems?


You really shouldn't have any BSOD issues, if you do please report, update your BIOS to the most recent: F8D http://www.mediafire.com/?figx5qacoo2eh0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> I've done pretty much everything I found on this forum and on the internet and I still can't get freezing /lockups/BSOD to stop


Can you tell me, is your OS fully updated? Do you have another SSD by chance? What about your USB devices, for the heck of it try uninstalling the Intel USb 3.0 driver. Is your system overclocked? do you have XMP set?

IMO perhaps you have a bad board and probably should RMA it, but let's try some other stuff, try this BIOS: http://www.mediafire.com/?figx5qacoo2eh0d GB never really updates their site with the BETAs, and they are slow with the finals as well.


----------



## sixor

using f11b for ud3h, everything fine so far, 4.5ghz


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Has anyone been able to get x26 from G Skill F3-2400C10D-8GTX ram? No matter how I loosen the timings it won't boot at 2600. Supposedly TweakTown loosened the timings slightly and was able to boot up with 2T CR but I got nothing.
> At stock Profile 1 settings I get Read=23311 Write=23530 Copy=27490 Latency=32.2 and the kit has been rock solid stable.
> If someone has settings they would share including any voltage tweaks I would much appreciate. I'm running cpu OC x45 at present, FWIW.


You are not the only one bro ..same here ,tested 4 different sets of RAM (they are all capable of going above 2400) with no avail ,it all comes down to your CPU's IMC
as far as i know there is very few retail Ivy chips that will do 2800+ and some will have trouble reaching 2600= it's a roll of the dice with this chips


----------



## Yor_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> You really shouldn't have any BSOD issues, if you do please report, update your BIOS to the most recent: F8D http://www.mediafire.com/?figx5qacoo2eh0d
> Can you tell me, is your OS fully updated? Do you have another SSD by chance? What about your USB devices, for the heck of it try uninstalling the Intel USb 3.0 driver. Is your system overclocked? do you have XMP set?
> IMO perhaps you have a bad board and probably should RMA it, but let's try some other stuff, try this BIOS: http://www.mediafire.com/?figx5qacoo2eh0d GB never really updates their site with the BETAs, and they are slow with the finals as well.


Thanks for your help Sin.

My OS is fully updated. I don't have another SSD. Already tried uninstalling the USB 3.0 driver and nothing. Tried many other things mentioned here and other forums. I'm trying to overclock, but even at stock freezes. My sets of ram are not XMP enabled and I don't have other one. My actual bios is F8d, the one posted on TweakTown forums.

BUT....I did something today that seemed to help, because it has been stable for a while: in BIOS, to raise the IMC by 0.005 (default was 0.925, now it's 0.930). So far so good with that change. Hope this helps in the end. I did that in addition to put BCLK to 100.01


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> Thanks for your help Sin.
> My OS is fully updated. I don't have another SSD. Already tried uninstalling the USB 3.0 driver and nothing. Tried many other things mentioned here and other forums. I'm trying to overclock, but even at stock freezes. My sets of ram are not XMP enabled and I don't have other one. My actual bios is F8d, the one posted on TweakTown forums.
> BUT....I did something today that seemed to help, because it has been stable for a while: in BIOS, to raise the IMC by 0.005 (default was 0.925, now it's 0.930). So far so good with that change. Hope this helps in the end. I did that in addition to put BCLK to 100.01


You already tried setting your BCLk to 100.00 and setting your vcore manually to like 1.2v? How about disabling EIST and setting your VCore?

if none of those works, then you should RMA the board, it might be defective. I would RMA it anyways, they would send you one that is guaranteed working. You see to have very odd issue. You don't have another OS by chance do you?


----------



## Yor_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> You already tried setting your BCLk to 100.00 and setting your vcore manually to like 1.2v? How about disabling EIST and setting your VCore?
> if none of those works, then you should RMA the board, it might be defective. I would RMA it anyways, they would send you one that is guaranteed working. You see to have very odd issue. You don't have another OS by chance do you?


Yeah, I should do RMA it









My vcore is at 1.22v, EIST, C1E and the other power saving functions disabled, yes.

But anyways, can you comment further on the IMC voltage change I did?. My VTT is 1.050, my actual IMC is 0.930 (default 0.925). I'm overclocking RAM to 1866 9-9-9-24-1T 1.5v (these Samsungs at default are 1600 11-11-11-28 1.35v default).

...With the raise in IMC, it stabilized a little. No freezes since then.


----------



## homestyle

what does pwm phase control do for the different 5 settings?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> You are not the only one bro ..same here ,tested 4 different sets of RAM (they are all capable of going above 2400) with no avail ,it all comes down to your CPU's IMC
> as far as i know there is very few retail Ivy chips that will do 2800+ and some will have trouble reaching 2600= it's a roll of the dice with this chips


So you think it's down to the cpu, huh? Well maybe you're right, I don't know. All these glowing reviews and what, they're binning cpu's/ram to get there?
When you can drop a 1600 Samsung green in a Sandy Bridge rig and get 2133 right out of the gate it sure makes these look poor.


----------



## Silver5656

well, i figure its time for me to post here.

z77 ud5h (running latest beta bios)
3770k
4x4gb Samsung ddr3 Green 30nm
Corsair hx850

Ran memtest on each stick for 8 hours, then all 4 sticks for 24 hours (why so long? because I was having issues)

Finally figured out that the board was resetting the voltage to 1.5v after every time i shut down and started up. It would SHOW that i chose 1.35 but it would read 1.5 on the bios and every program

The latest bios update solved this, but I cannot seem to get stable on hyperpi / IBT / Linx / prime95. I was able to get it to run consistently using 11/11/11/28/2t @ 1.355v @ 1866 on hyperpi / IBT / Linx but it fails on prime95.

This is my 2nd board (as gb told me to return the first one). And to double check the cpu and ram i installed it on my friends asus (he wasnt happy about that) and it was able to run all tests fine and even the ram ran at 9/9/9/24/1t @ 1.35v @ 2000. But for some reason it will not work consistently on the ud5h at 11/11/11/28/2t. Even at 11/11/11/28 @ 1600 it fails some tests what seems randomly.

Also, it seems that 10% of the time (rough guess on my brief experience) that once the computer boots and goes into windows, after 5-10 seconds it just stops. Everything is on, computer is on, screen is on showing desktop, but keyboard/mouse do nothing. Tried changing 3 different keyboards, 3 different mice, seems to do this randomly.

I noticed a few others with this ram combo, what timings/settings are you running?

oh forgot to note, cpu is stock. I want to get the highest settings for ram possible at or near the 1.35v as i figure the gains are minute


----------



## Sin0822

why don't you set stock timings and then go down to the third timings, most of them are 3s or 1s, then change them all to 7s and 6s or 8s and 7s. That is the big difference between the asus and GB boards in terms of stock memory performance, GB tightens up those third timings for better performance so in efficiency the GB is very good. Did you try two sticks by themselves? Also there is no XMP for the Samsung green, I asked for one but they still didn't make it yet, that could also have something to do with it. but you should be able to run that memory fine.

Try these settings from my OC guide, youc an try 9-9-9-24 i got those timings to work at 1600mhz. What is also funny is that the samsungs are the only ones that at stock run 1600mhz without any change.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silver5656*
> 
> well, i figure its time for me to post here.
> z77 ud5h (running latest beta bios)
> 3770k
> 4x4gb Samsung ddr3 Green 30nm
> Corsair hx850
> Ran memtest on each stick for 8 hours, then all 4 sticks for 24 hours (why so long? because I was having issues)
> Finally figured out that the board was resetting the voltage to 1.5v after every time i shut down and started up. It would SHOW that i chose 1.35 but it would read 1.5 on the bios and every program
> The latest bios update solved this, but I cannot seem to get stable on hyperpi / IBT / Linx / prime95. I was able to get it to run consistently using 11/11/11/28/2t @ 1.355v @ 1866 on hyperpi / IBT / Linx but it fails on prime95.
> This is my 2nd board (as gb told me to return the first one). And to double check the cpu and ram i installed it on my friends asus (he wasnt happy about that) and it was able to run all tests fine and even the ram ran at 9/9/9/24/1t @ 1.35v @ 2000. But for some reason it will not work consistently on the ud5h at 11/11/11/28/2t. Even at 11/11/11/28 @ 1600 it fails some tests what seems randomly.
> Also, it seems that 10% of the time (rough guess on my brief experience) that once the computer boots and goes into windows, after 5-10 seconds it just stops. Everything is on, computer is on, screen is on showing desktop, but keyboard/mouse do nothing. Tried changing 3 different keyboards, 3 different mice, seems to do this randomly.
> I noticed a few others with this ram combo, what timings/settings are you running?
> oh forgot to note, cpu is stock. I want to get the highest settings for ram possible at or near the 1.35v as i figure the gains are minute


BTW the guy above you, yor_ got the memory working at 1866 with 4 sticks.


----------



## Silver5656

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> why don't you set stock timings and then go down to the third timings, most of them are 3s or 1s, then change them all to 7s and 6s or 8s and 7s. That is the big difference between the asus and GB boards in terms of stock memory performance, GB tightens up those third timings for better performance so in efficiency the GB is very good. Did you try two sticks by themselves? Also there is no XMP for the Samsung green, I asked for one but they still didn't make it yet, that could also have something to do with it. but you should be able to run that memory fine.
> Try these settings from my OC guide, youc an try 9-9-9-24 i got those timings to work at 1600mhz. What is also funny is that the samsungs are the only ones that at stock run 1600mhz without any change.


will give that a try tonight and will post up. I tried looking up what those timings meant but could not find any good info but will give it a shot. I did try running 2 sticks only and also had the same issues although it seems to run prime much longer before having errors (ie 2 hours instead of 20 minutes)

I also have to congratulate you. Your willingness to help seems to go above and beyond any paid customer service rep i've seen. I am currently going through the 100+ pages to read up on any info and your responses seem to be helpful and quick. Add me to the list of thanks


----------



## eaglepowers

I'm using 4x4gb Samsungs. I forgot who posted it but I'm using their settings and it seems to work fine. They also had 4x4gb Samsungs. 1866 9 9 9 24, 1.35v. At first I thought the volts would be too low but maybe the memory likes it?


----------



## sixor

3570k 1.26 vcore 4.5ghz,

happy, ud3h, f9,

btw usb mouse problems are making me crazy, even on beta bios, stupid gigabyte


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> 3570k 1.26 vcore 4.5ghz,
> happy, ud3h, f9,
> btw usb mouse problems are making me crazy, even on beta bios, *stupid gigabyte*


Well,with BIOS F9 you are behind actual .


----------



## Sin0822

yea tery the latest, you are way behind, and it looks like the latest UD5h addressed some peripheral compatibility, so perhaps the UD3h too: F11B right here man:! http://www.mediafire.com/?zcsf76f4m63ntc7


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> I'm using 4x4gb Samsungs. I forgot who posted it but I'm using their settings and it seems to work fine. They also had 4x4gb Samsungs. 1866 9 9 9 24, 1.35v. At first I thought the volts would be too low but maybe the memory likes it?


that is what the ULV samsungs are rated at. 1.35v, but they handle upto 1.65v just fine, but at stock or 1866 you should try 1.35v to 1.5v maybe. Also try maxing out the DRAm 3D power mode settings.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Had to raise it from what previous offset? Going from F9 to F11b?


Raised it from +0.110 to +0.120. Makes it stable.. I'm currently undergoing driver problems at the moment though.. BF3 didn't lock up for hours, but dirt 3 locked up in the first lap








I know that 12.3 + the caps are stable.. But 12.4 has given me more trouble then the time it's worth.


----------



## crimsonspark

btw, are the bios updates of both ud3h and ud5h compatible with each other or do they use separate bios updates?


----------



## sixor

stacio
sin

yeah, thanks, i had that bios still with mouse problems, i went back to f9, since i was going crazy since my win7 format, it did not detected the mouse even with no usb devices and intel via usb3 drivers,


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> stacio
> sin
> yeah, thanks, i had that bios still with mouse problems, i went back to f9, since i was going crazy since my win7 format, it did not detected the mouse even with no usb devices and intel via usb3 drivers,


That being said F8 on the D3H doesn't detect some of (2x USB 3.0 i think) ports.. I had my 360 wireless adapter plugged in and it wasn't working. So I changed it and it's fine now!
Really not liking the whole "Wait on a bios" thing


----------



## tazmania

So after building my pc i found out that my 1600 ram is set to 1333 by default in the BIOS. All i did was go into the BIOS and the change the memory multiplier to 16 (1600). Is that enough or should i play around with the XMP settings? The timing is correct for my sticks: 9-9-9-24. I'm using corsair 8gb vengeance (2x4GB) in slots DDR3_1 and DDR3_2.

Also, i'm a little annoyed by the PWM control for system fans in the BIOS as well. I changed the setting to manual and set it to 2.xx (can't remember) but it doesn't seem to be working properly. I have 3 system fans connected

Other than that, the Z77X-UD3H has been great


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tazmania*
> 
> So after building my pc i found out that my 1600 ram is set to 1333 by default in the BIOS. All i did was go into the BIOS and the change the memory multiplier to 16 (1600). Is that enough or should i play around with the XMP settings? The timing is correct for my sticks: 9-9-9-24. I'm using corsair 8gb vengeance (2x4GB) in slots DDR3_1 and DDR3_2.
> 
> Also, i'm a little annoyed by the PWM control for system fans in the BIOS as well. I changed the setting to manual and set it to 2.xx (can't remember) but it doesn't seem to be working properly. I have 3 system fans connected
> 
> Other than that, the Z77X-UD3H has been great


If they are XMP kits, you can certainly use a XMP profile, if not, manually setting timings and speed should be fine.


----------



## sixor

wow this usb mouse bug is getting dumber and dumber, so i turn my pc off, after next boot i have to change the mouse port, really gigabyte?

about the 1333 ram, if you enable xmp, the ram will go to 1600


----------



## -Ste-

been having alot of problems with f8d bios for ud5h

the main problem is that the when i go into bios it locks up after 10 seconds or so i have cleared cmos and tried to load defaults but the problem is still there

currently on backup bios at the moment


----------



## Cruxer

Quick questions, can somebody tell me if the UD5H supports ATA passwords?
Also, the UD5H manual enables you to set an "administrator password" which you have to enter during boot. Is this an ATA password?
I want to use a encrypted SSD in combination with the board.


----------



## ChrisB17

When I enable LUCID MVP Hyperformance in BF3. The grass all is green and looks weird. Is there something I can do to fix this issue? Or is it a board/software issue?


----------



## Yor_

...Just came by to report that as soon as I uninstalled the Intel HD graphics driver and disabled the integrated graphics in bios, the freezes returned, after being stable for nearly 2 days.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> been having alot of problems with f8d bios for ud5h
> the main problem is that the when i go into bios it locks up after 10 seconds or so i have cleared cmos and tried to load defaults but the problem is still there
> currently on backup bios at the moment


I have same problem with F6 and F7. I have to restart the PC a couple of time to get the mouse working.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Guys, am I only one having this?
> 
> I have just my mouse and keyboard plug to USB 2.0 ports, and Bluetooth and Printer to USB 3.0..


Just so you know guys. After upgrading to F8d bios, I haven't had this problem; additionally, I was able to lower vcore from 1.32 to 1.31 (LLC at Turbo).


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> I have my 3570k and ud3h stock now. My board gets spikes up to 3.6 ghz every 3-5 seconds for a split second while idling in windows in balanced power mode.
> When I switch to power saver in windows power settings, the spikes go away.
> The system is idling and not doing anything. Anybody else get this? I'm measuring loads with hwinfo system summary.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *graywulf*
> 
> Same thing here, except with UD5H. So I just put it in Power Savings mode and tweaked all the options to my liking.


hwinfo it8728f sensor was causing the spikes and latency. uncheck the sensor monitoring and the spikes go away for me.


----------



## samwiches

Help. Sometimes my NIC does this (UD3H):


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimsonspark*
> 
> btw, are the bios updates of both ud3h and ud5h compatible with each other or do they use separate bios updates?


no every board has its own BIOS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tazmania*
> 
> So after building my pc i found out that my 1600 ram is set to 1333 by default in the BIOS. All i did was go into the BIOS and the change the memory multiplier to 16 (1600). Is that enough or should i play around with the XMP settings? The timing is correct for my sticks: 9-9-9-24. I'm using corsair 8gb vengeance (2x4GB) in slots DDR3_1 and DDR3_2.
> Also, i'm a little annoyed by the PWM control for system fans in the BIOS as well. I changed the setting to manual and set it to 2.xx (can't remember) but it doesn't seem to be working properly. I have 3 system fans connected
> Other than that, the Z77X-UD3H has been great


For the PWm control you can try easytune6 under smart fan control.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> When I enable LUCID MVP Hyperformance in BF3. The grass all is green and looks weird. Is there something I can do to fix this issue? Or is it a board/software issue?


yea that is Lucid's issues, slightly something a bit messed up when using hyperformance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cruxer*
> 
> Quick questions, can somebody tell me if the UD5H supports ATA passwords?
> Also, the UD5H manual enables you to set an "administrator password" which you have to enter during boot. Is this an ATA password?
> I want to use a encrypted SSD in combination with the board.


no idea man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> been having alot of problems with f8d bios for ud5h
> the main problem is that the when i go into bios it locks up after 10 seconds or so i have cleared cmos and tried to load defaults but the problem is still there
> currently on backup bios at the moment


Are you overclocked in F8D? When you flash to F8d was your CPU OCed? You should goto the backup like you have and hit alt+f10 on POST until the board tries o flash the backup BIOS with the main. by switching the switch you effectively made the BIOS you are currently on the main, and the other BIOS the backup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I have same problem with F6 and F7. I have to restart the PC a couple of time to get the mouse working.


what Mouse?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> hwinfo it8728f sensor was causing the spikes and latency. uncheck the sensor monitoring and the spikes go away for me.


more like easytune was causing the spikes with its DPC latency issues. If you turn off easytune the DPC spikes go away, or other gigabyte programs, or other programs.


----------



## tazmania

Another question (Z77X-UD3H):
I have a case with 3 fans. The fans came with 3-pin to molex converters but i removed them and connected the 3-pin from the fans to the 4-pin connectors (SYS_FAN1/2/3) on the motherboard. The manual says that SYS_FAN1/2/3 have 4 pins for *GND, 12V/Speed Control, Sense, Reserve*. What is reserve? Also, am i better off connecting the 3-pin directly to the 4-pin or should i use the converter that the case gave me? I'd rather have the motherboard control the speed instead of blasting the fans full speed at all times with the molex connection. The reserve pin (that is connected to nothing) is throwing me off and i'm not sure if the fans are actually being controlled properly rather than running at a set speed.

The manual also says that SYS_FAN4 doesn't have Speed Control on pin 2 which is odd.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> more like easytune was causing the spikes with its DPC latency issues. If you turn off easytune the DPC spikes go away, or other gigabyte programs, or other programs.


i don't have easytune installed.


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> .
> Are you overclocked in F8D? When you flash to F8d was your CPU OCed? You should goto the backup like you have and hit alt+f10 on POST until the board tries o flash the backup BIOS with the main. by switching the switch you effectively made the BIOS you are currently on the main, and the other BIOS the backup.
> .


just done a re-flash of my main bios seems everything is running fine again

when i first flashed it ,at the 100% mark instead of giving me the option to 'power off' or 'power off and reboot' it just turned off but with this second flash i have just done it gave me the option

i guess a bad flash with q flash


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> more like easytune was causing the spikes with its DPC latency issues. If you turn off easytune the DPC spikes go away, or other gigabyte programs, or other programs.
> 
> 
> 
> i don't have easytune installed.
Click to expand...

Easytune was causing mine.

That was easy, thanks Sin.


----------



## sixor

easytune uses too much vcore

easytune 4.5ghz = 1.380
my oc 4.5 = 1.260


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tazmania*
> 
> Another question (Z77X-UD3H):
> I have a case with 3 fans. The fans came with 3-pin to molex converters but i removed them and connected the 3-pin from the fans to the 4-pin connectors (SYS_FAN1/2/3) on the motherboard. The manual says that SYS_FAN1/2/3 have 4 pins for *GND, 12V/Speed Control, Sense, Reserve*. What is reserve? Also, am i better off connecting the 3-pin directly to the 4-pin or should i use the converter that the case gave me? I'd rather have the motherboard control the speed instead of blasting the fans full speed at all times with the molex connection. The reserve pin (that is connected to nothing) is throwing me off and i'm not sure if the fans are actually being controlled properly rather than running at a set speed.
> The manual also says that SYS_FAN4 doesn't have Speed Control on pin 2 which is odd.


reserve is for the 4-pin fans. To have the motherboard control the fan you should change the mode to voltage instead of PWM under CPu fan control mode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> i don't have easytune installed.


See if you have any other program that will poll the fan speeds, voltages, or something else. That polling to the hardware can cause DPC latency spikes. with easytune you can increase the polling rate of the fan and voltages and then the DPC latency spikes are in sync with the rate lol.

Other programs could be speedfan or somthing else that polls the fan monitoring.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> just done a re-flash of my main bios seems everything is running fine again
> when i first flashed it ,at the 100% mark instead of giving me the option to 'power off' or 'power off and reboot' it just turned off but with this second flash i have just done it gave me the option
> i guess a bad flash with q flash


good to hear it worked, yes updating your BIOS isn't a 100% sure thing, that is why it isn't recommended to update unless you have issues. Glad to hear it worked out well.

BTW please after a flash always load optimized defaults, save and restart.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> easytune uses too much vcore
> easytune 4.5ghz = 1.380
> my oc 4.5 = 1.260


yes software OCing isn't ever that good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Easytune was causing mine.
> That was easy, thanks Sin.


no problem.


----------



## Silver5656

so this might be a random question (especially regarding that this is an oc forum) but if i plan on using stock clock (3.5 + 3.9 turbo is fine for me) should I leave everything on auto? Or should i change the settings. I read a few posts where those who oc should change llc and vcore, dvid and what not to stabilize voltage so that the auto settings wont send the voltage super high, but wondered if that also happens on stock settings. I literally need super stability as some of the vid encodes I do take days (3-8 days on extreme runs)


----------



## Sin0822

just load optimized defaults and restart, if you have issues post back, and I will provide you a profile you can load. Leaving everything on auto is preferred.


----------



## homestyle

1.17, 1.05, 0.91, 1.79, 1.34, 0.66, 1.03

I measured my volts with a multimeter. I need help with the last 2 readings. I'm not sure what volts its reading.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> 1.17, 1.05, 0.91, 1.79, 1.34, 0.66, 1.03
> I measured my volts with a multimeter. I need help with the last 2 readings. I'm not sure what volts its reading.


The motherboard has the read points labeled


The first in your list looks like:
VCore, VTT, IMC, CPU PLL, DDR, DDR VTT(half DDR), PCH


----------



## drotaru

Managed to get my ram last night from 2133 CL9 - 11 -11 -25 ( XMP profile ) to CL 10 - 13- 13 -35 2600 with the UD5H ( last bios seems really stable ) but the scores do not seem all that high in Maxx MEM 2 and i cant compare them to the online charts because they are not working so here are the scores : 27000 mb/s copy 26400 read 22800 write and 42.8 latency , is it a normal score or is the mem unstable and giving lower scores ? ( seems to hold 1h of prime95 27.7 p2 just fine )

And my second question. Iv seen someone here say that that the vcore needed to get the CPU stable had increased as he added more expansion cards iv got crossfire and a PCI-E sound card, does that affect my stable OC vcore ?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tazmania*
> 
> So after building my pc i found out that my 1600 ram is set to 1333 by default in the BIOS. All i did was go into the BIOS and the change the memory multiplier to 16 (1600). Is that enough or should i play around with the XMP settings? The timing is correct for my sticks: 9-9-9-24. I'm using corsair 8gb vengeance (2x4GB) in slots DDR3_1 and DDR3_2.
> Also, i'm a little annoyed by the PWM control for system fans in the BIOS as well. I changed the setting to manual and set it to 2.xx (can't remember) but it doesn't seem to be working properly. I have 3 system fans connected
> Other than that, the Z77X-UD3H has been great


Yes, after setting the right voltage and making sure the timings/speeds are correct it's fine to go!








As for the sticks.. That's in the 2x slots next to each other yeah? Move them so it's like this..

Empty | Stick 1 | Empty | Stick 2

It'll increase memory bandwitdh!


----------



## ElectricDelta

So, I flashed F8d on my UD5H yesterday, hoping for some improvements to USB functionality. I've had no application crashes, BF3 has run great the last two evenings. On boot, it seems to take a long time (10 seconds?), after the Windows 7 log-in screen appears, before my USB Steelseries Merc Stealth keyboard is recognized, lights up and becomes functional; the mouse (CM Storm Spawn) is working immediately. Still having failures of my USB microphone adapter (Andrea Electronics USB-MA) to start at Windows boot, getting Error Code 10, The Device Can Not Start. Unplugging and re-plugging the USB-MA will get it working; eventually, it can take several tries. Once the USB-MA is recognized and working, it functions flawlessly thereafter. I also had the USB Overload message, after plugging a USB Flash Drive into the USB port on my keyboard; the keyboard and mouse are plugged into the USB 2.0 ports on the back of the PC. Really surprised the USB drive wouldn't work on the keyboard port, that seems really silly. I'm not sure what could be even lower power than a USB drive that _would_ work, nothing in my PC accessories inventory that I can think of anyway.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> Managed to get my ram last night from 2133 CL9 - 11 -11 -25 ( XMP profile ) to CL 10 - 13- 13 -35 2600 with the UD5H ( last bios seems really stable ) but the scores do not seem all that high in Maxx MEM 2 and i cant compare them to the online charts because they are not working so here are the scores : 27000 mb/s copy 26400 read 22800 write and 42.8 latency , is it a normal score or is the mem unstable and giving lower scores ? ( seems to hold 1h of prime95 27.7 p2 just fine )
> 
> And my second question. Iv seen someone here say that that the vcore needed to get the CPU stable had increased as he added more expansion cards iv got crossfire and a PCI-E sound card, does that affect my stable OC vcore ?


nice to hear that, did you only change your main timings or did you change from T1 to T2 as well?

Timings are extremely tricky, sometimes lower latency can product worse results and sometimes higher are better, the reason being that once in a while you might set a timing off from what it should be and the controller will have no choice but to fix it to the highest value. I think perhaps you expect too much from memory OCing, it really makes very tiny difference in real world OC unless it is in a benchmark like superpi that relies on it. Also some benchmarks crave timings and some love bandwidth. Instead of 35 try 32, 31, or 26 even. You did a big OC though, that is pretty nice. I think you did a good job, so you weren't able to OC that high until the latest BIOS update?

For the extra PCI-E devices, try to plug in that extra PCI-E power plug, it is a SATA power receptacle located by the SATA ports. If you have no issues then don't worry about it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> So, I flashed F8d on my UD5H yesterday, hoping for some improvements to USB functionality. I've had no application crashes, BF3 has run great the last two evenings. On boot, it seems to take a long time (10 seconds?), after the Windows 7 log-in screen appears, before my USB Steelseries Merc Stealth keyboard is recognized, lights up and becomes functional; the mouse (CM Storm Spawn) is working immediately. Still having failures of my USB microphone adapter (Andrea Electronics USB-MA) to start at Windows boot, getting Error Code 10, The Device Can Not Start. Unplugging and re-plugging the USB-MA will get it working; eventually, it can take several tries. Once the USB-MA is recognized and working, it functions flawlessly thereafter. I also had the USB Overload message, after plugging a USB Flash Drive into the USB port on my keyboard; the keyboard and mouse are plugged into the USB 2.0 ports on the back of the PC. Really surprised the USB drive wouldn't work on the keyboard port, that seems really silly. I'm not sure what could be even lower power than a USB drive that _would_ work, nothing in my PC accessories inventory that I can think of anyway.


Have you tried plugging first into the two USB 2.0 ports then the USB 3.0? If you plug into the front panel ports, does the same thing occur.

BTW more USB devices you have, or devices in general, the longer the POST will be, that is how it works as each device needs to be initialized.

Do you have another system to try that USB microphone on?


----------



## arrow0309

Some guys on our italian 3d are reporting chipset temp. issues on both the UD5H and Sniper-M3.
What do you think would be a good range idle/load temps for the chipset on the Gigabyte Z77 mobos?


----------



## drotaru

T2 as well yes ( had T1 before ) memory is a teamgroup xtreem LV 2133 9-11-11-24 at 1.5v don't know what chip it has tho , for the 2600 OC i had to up the vdimm to 1.72 the vtt to 1.120 and imc 1.115( what are safe values ? how much more i can raise them ? ) . Found some more benchmark references to 2600 mhz ram and they seem in line with mine so i guess its ok. I have indeed pluged the SATA power cable into the motherboard.

For some reason the mem can do 2600 CL10 but cant do CL8 2133  , that is 8-11-11-24 it just freezes or does not boot at all :S any insight into why ? ( iv tried allot of voltage combinations :S ) btw i have 2 x 4gb pluged into the right slots if there is any question there

chipset temps , i have 55 in idle and a max of 70 when stressing with a 60 average under regular load ( gaming , rendering etc .. )

another question which iv either not understood the answer for or hasn't been answered in this topic is ,, for OC purposes ( disregarding power draw ) how should the 3D phase setting be set to ? got mine on auto but iv seen peeps having it on eXP performance and also the voltage response setting .

What would they be set to for stability at higher clocks ?

Also for Sin0822 , could you provide with a good 3770K 4.7ghz bios OC profile for UD5H ?


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> ... ...
> 
> chipset temps , i have 55 in idle and a max of 70 when stressing with a 60 average under regular load ( gaming , rendering etc .. )


Aren't they too high then? Would a better TIM replacement improve the temps somehow?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> ... ...
> 
> Also for Sin0822 , could you provide with a good 3770K 4.7ghz bios OC profile for UD5H ?


I agree


----------



## drotaru

I honestly don't know, im coming from a X58 motherboard that had almost the same numbers so it didnt seem high to me :S . how much are other ppl getting ?


----------



## mandrix

Not a lot of data points here, but this is software (HWINFO) vs hardware (DMM) of vcore on UD5H. This results may not be identical to yours, but it gives me a look at what my board is doing.
Usually for me cpuz results are same as HWINFO, but HWINFO appears to poll more frequently.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> I honestly don't know, im coming from a X58 motherboard that had almost the same numbers so it didnt seem high to me :S . how much are other ppl getting ?


I'm still using a good X58 motherboard and I'm telling you I've never seen those high chipset temps, maybe on summertime I was getting 55-56° C max on full stress:

Recent, wintertime:



And here's an older, last summer pic:



Still waiting for an answer from Sin0822


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> I honestly don't know, im coming from a X58 motherboard that had almost the same numbers so it didnt seem high to me :S . how much are other ppl getting ?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still using a good X58 motherboard and I'm telling you I've never seen those high chipset temps, maybe on summertime I was getting 55-56° C max on full stress:
> 
> Recent, wintertime:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's an older, last summer pic:
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting for an answer from Sin0822
Click to expand...

My chipset idles around 51C according to Aida64, at load, it never clears 60C. I see no reason to worry.

However, that is MUCH hotter than my EP45-UD3P at idle anyway. At idle, that chipset was around 30C... full load it was close to the same as this is at load.

Doesn't seem like the issue would be anything other than lack of airflow as to high temperatures. Passive cooler like the heatsinks that are on there need air passing over them. Even though I'm water cooled I have 1x230mm and 2x120mm fans pulling additional air into the case to create some nice cold air flow through it.


----------



## Grippen

Hello to all,

Here is a problem I have and it's really annoying.

I've got a z77x-d3h board with a i5 2500K cpu. Sometimes at the reboot proccess or at power up (not all times) it freezes to the bios screen without booting to windows. After a reset or two finally works normally and boots. Sometimes also in windows the mouse is not responding and need to unplug it and plug it in again.

I updated the bios to F9 version still nothing. I returned back the board to the vendor taking a new one, same model, still the same problem, Updated again to F9 bios, nothing changed.

I start to be frustrated, any ideas?

Thanks

Configuration

Z77X-D3H no overclocked, i5-2500K 3xWDC 1TB 1xWDC 2TB, Windows XP and 7 installed on 2 hdd's with dual boot at start. Gforce 9800 GT, Memory, Transcend 2x2GB 1600Mhz.


----------



## drotaru

Latest bios for your board im seeing is F8 not F9 , exactly what board do you have ?

On another note im looking at my PCH temps and touching the radiator with my hand and it doesnt seem to corelate .. ( i should feel 60 degress celsius but it feels more like 45 ore less.. almost cold to the touch .. )


----------



## recnepsbuh

I am thinking about buying the UD5H(maybe WB) for my first build. I have read the reviews on newegg and most of this thread. I will be using an i5 2500K CPU, and I was concerned with some of the reviews I have read. This being my first build, I would really like something that is not going to give me alot of fits. At this point, I am not going to overclock anything, I just want to get it up and running as smoothly as possible.

I have read that most of the issues come from using an Ivy Bridge CPU. Since I am going with an i5 Sandy Bridge, would I have less to worry about? Or should I get a different motherboard? I realize that electronics have failure rates and its possible to get a bad unit right out of the box, no matter which company you go with. I have had a few of my friends tell me that Gigabyte is a quality board, and the UD5H has alot of what I want on it.

Thanks from a total newb!


----------



## drotaru

Frankly i have had absolutely no issue with the board and as Sin points out, more than 98% of the people are perfectly content with the board. Its just very few that have problems and out of those ( no disrespect ) 50% of them are issues not created by the board itself .

I for example did not have absolutely any problems with the USB ports and i do have USB wireless mouse and keyboard i also have a crossfire setup a pci-e sound card a ssd and 2 hard drivers so basically allot of components plugged it and it works flawlessly further more boot speed is amazing with this card .

Iv heard the wireless is also pretty good as far as signal strength is concerned


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grippen*
> 
> Hello to all,
> Here is a problem I have and it's really annoying.
> I've got a z77x-d3h board with a i5 2500K cpu. Sometimes at the reboot proccess or at power up (not all times) it freezes to the bios screen without booting to windows. After a reset or two finally works normally and boots. Sometimes also in windows the mouse is not responding and need to unplug it and plug it in again.
> I updated the bios to F9 version still nothing. I returned back the board to the vendor taking a new one, same model, still the same problem, Updated again to F9 bios, nothing changed.
> I start to be frustrated, any ideas?
> Thanks
> Configuration
> Z77X-D3H no overclocked, i5-2500K 3xWDC 1TB 1xWDC 2TB, Windows XP and 7 installed on 2 hdd's with dual boot at start. Gforce 9800 GT, Memory, Transcend 2x2GB 1600Mhz.


update to f11b

and yes, the mouse bug is very annoying, happened to me on every bios, i don´t really know how to fix it, try unplugging every usb from your pc, tthen plug the mouse, then all the other devices, something like that, it it sort of luck

gigabyte i kinda hate you, but i love quality of your mobos like my old 785g with 4+1 mosfets, did not exploded with my phenom2 1.45vcrore 4ghz


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> 1.17, 1.05, 0.91, 1.79, 1.34, 0.66, 1.03
> 
> I measured my volts with a multimeter. I need help with the last 2 readings. I'm not sure what volts its reading.


Can you be more specific?


----------



## recnepsbuh

Thanks man. This being my first build, I am trying to go over everything, every link in the chain. I have a few people that can help me out if I get in a jam, but I would like to be able to do this by myself. I have no problem with the mechanical part, its just getting everything up and running. I may go with the Wifi version, as I would have to crawl under my house to run a line over to my room to use the ethernet port. I was looking at the pics of the Wifi version, and it looks like it comes with an antenna for Wifi and bluetooth. I am not worried about bluetooth right now, but being able to move the antenna to get the best signal strength is a nice option.

Has anybody used the supplied front USB 3.0 panel? I thought about using this as I could still retain the use of the rears and not have to connect the pass-throughs that go with my case. Also, I cant tell exactly from the pics on newegg, but will the tall heatsink to the left of the CPU socket interfer with a 2 fan push/pull CPU cooler set up?

Thanks again for the help.


----------



## drotaru

I am using the USB 3 panel everything is alright , as it should(Only prob i got is maybe the cable could have been longer obviously depending on where you want to put it in the case , i wanted it somewhere as far up as possible and that was a bit of an issue) . As far as the height of the heatsink i believe its not taller than standard issue memory so there shouldn't be any problem there. Best is to try and search for the MB and cooler on the internet and see if someone else had raised this issue


----------



## Grippen

Originally posted by Drotaru

Latest bios for your board im seeing is F8 not F9 , exactly what board do you have ?

Sorry that was a typing mistake, the current bios IU have is F8 the board is the z77x-d3h
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#ov

I've read also your other post that most of the problems are not coming from the board itself. Is there a possibility that the problem comes from the hard drivers or the dual boot I have set up? There is also onboard a card reader that is recognized during the boot, but I have disabled it in the boot order.


----------



## gooface

I am stuck in a boot loop after restarting from windows..... I have tried everything.... Code 60 comes up on the debug light before it turns off again (DXE Core is started)

PLEASE HELP!!

This was just after a successful overclock to 4.5ghz 13 hour prime run, (temps never went about 76C) I set PLL to 1.7v, cpu to -.010, and RAM to Profile 1. 300 and 200 on the power CPU turbo settings.

I have the H100 and the light for the speed isnt coming up just the light on the guy icon on the bottom right.


----------



## Grippen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> update to f11b
> and yes, the mouse bug is very annoying, happened to me on every bios, i don´t really know how to fix it, try unplugging every usb from your pc, tthen plug the mouse, then all the other devices, something like that, it it sort of luck
> gigabyte i kinda hate you, but i love quality of your mobos like my old 785g with 4+1 mosfets, did not exploded with my phenom2 1.45vcrore 4ghz


Sorry that was a typing mistake, the current bios IU have is F8 the board is the z77x-d3h
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#ov

Is there a possibility that the problem comes from the hard drivers or the dual boot I have set up? There is also onboard a card reader that is recognized during the boot, but I have disabled it in the boot order. Should I try to remove one by one the hard drives? or the devices from the usb?


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> I'm still using a good X58 motherboard and I'm telling you I've never seen those high chipset temps, maybe on summertime I was getting 55-56° C max on full stress:
> Recent, wintertime:
> 
> And here's an older, last summer pic:
> 
> Still waiting for an answer from Sin0822


It depends on where the temp sensor is. The x58 chipset didn't have a temp sensor in the actual chipset (to my knowledge). Most mobo manufacturers just put temp sensors on the actual board near the chipset. As for z77, sin will have to respond and tell us where the temp sensor is. I'm also getting high temps (55C idle), but its being cooled by that little dinky heatsink that gets almost no airflow with a graphics card installed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Can you be more specific?


I'm not sure what you mean? Sin posted a chart that showed the volts I was referring to.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface*
> 
> I am stuck in a boot loop after restarting from windows..... I have tried everything.... Code 60 comes up on the debug light before it turns off again (DXE Core is started)
> 
> PLEASE HELP!!
> 
> This was just after a successful overclock to 4.5ghz 13 hour prime run, (temps never went about 76C) I set PLL to 1.7v, cpu to -.010, and RAM to Profile 1. 300 and 200 on the power CPU turbo settings.
> 
> I have the H100 and the light for the speed isnt coming up just the light on the guy icon on the bottom right.


Try flipping the BIOS switch on your board to enable the second BIOS. Maybe your volt settings aren't stable after all. If it boots on the second BIOS, I'd switch back, reset the CMOS, set the OC again, but leave PLL at 1.8. Maybe yours doesn't like lower PLL.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Try flipping the BIOS switch on your board to enable the second BIOS. Maybe your volt settings aren't stable after all. If it boots on the second BIOS, I'd switch back, reset the CMOS, set the OC again, but leave PLL at 1.8. Maybe yours doesn't like lower PLL.


I tried that and still doesnt boot, I have pressed the reset BIOS switch, pulled out the battery, unplugged the computer, unplugged the 24 and 8 pin power plugs from the mobo, plugged it back in took out my ram put another kit in, run off onboard video... still no dice.... unplugged hard drives as well. still wont come up, and before it was showing the level of fan power I had on my cooler and its not doing that anymore ,just lighting up the guy on the bottom right.

the debug codes go like this when it turns on:

15 - Pre-memory North-Bridge initialization is started
36 - CPU PEU initialization
4F - Reserved
60 - DXE Core is started

then it dies, and loops again, sometimes it even tried the backup bios and it still doesnt work. I Think my board just died on me.... or CPU... and it just had a great overclocking experience with this board and was ready to start installing games...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *recnepsbuh*
> 
> Thanks man. This being my first build, I am trying to go over everything, every link in the chain. I have a few people that can help me out if I get in a jam, but I would like to be able to do this by myself. I have no problem with the mechanical part, its just getting everything up and running. I may go with the Wifi version, as I would have to crawl under my house to run a line over to my room to use the ethernet port. I was looking at the pics of the Wifi version, and it looks like it comes with an antenna for Wifi and bluetooth. I am not worried about bluetooth right now, but being able to move the antenna to get the best signal strength is a nice option.
> Has anybody used the supplied front USB 3.0 panel? I thought about using this as I could still retain the use of the rears and not have to connect the pass-throughs that go with my case. Also, I cant tell exactly from the pics on newegg, but will the tall heatsink to the left of the CPU socket interfer with a 2 fan push/pull CPU cooler set up?
> Thanks again for the help.


I ran a Noctua NH-D14 before I water cooled with no problems. So no, the heatsink is not going to interfere with a cpu cooler unless it's some kind of design way different from the Noctua.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Some guys on our italian 3d are reporting chipset temp. issues on both the UD5H and Sniper-M3.
> What do you think would be a good range idle/load temps for the chipset on the Gigabyte Z77 mobos?


Here is the deal, the Z77 PCH runs 0.6W hotter than the Z68 PCH 6.7w versus 6.1w, it accounts for the PCH's higher temperature. Now does it matter? No. Why? Because PCH temperature really doesn't impact the performance. It just runs on the warm side. You can replace the paste sure, I doubt if you decreased the temperature that it would actually help something, as the chipset is running within spec.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> T2 as well yes ( had T1 before ) memory is a teamgroup xtreem LV 2133 9-11-11-24 at 1.5v don't know what chip it has tho , for the 2600 OC i had to up the vdimm to 1.72 the vtt to 1.120 and imc 1.115( what are safe values ? how much more i can raise them ? ) . Found some more benchmark references to 2600 mhz ram and they seem in line with mine so i guess its ok. I have indeed pluged the SATA power cable into the motherboard.
> 
> For some reason the mem can do 2600 CL10 but cant do CL8 2133
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , that is 8-11-11-24 it just freezes or does not boot at all :S any insight into why ? ( iv tried allot of voltage combinations :S ) btw i have 2 x 4gb pluged into the right slots if there is any question there
> 
> chipset temps , i have 55 in idle and a max of 70 when stressing with a 60 average under regular load ( gaming , rendering etc .. )
> 
> another question which iv either not understood the answer for or hasn't been answered in this topic is ,, for OC purposes ( disregarding power draw ) how should the 3D phase setting be set to ? got mine on auto but iv seen peeps having it on eXP performance and also the voltage response setting .
> What would they be set to for stability at higher clocks ?
> Also for Sin0822 , could you provide with a good 3770K 4.7ghz bios OC profile for UD5H ?


Sometimes some memory like samsungs don't do tight cas latencies.

Yea ill give you a profile.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface*
> 
> I am stuck in a boot loop after restarting from windows..... I have tried everything.... Code 60 comes up on the debug light before it turns off again (DXE Core is started)
> PLEASE HELP!!
> This was just after a successful overclock to 4.5ghz 13 hour prime run, (temps never went about 76C) I set PLL to 1.7v, cpu to -.010, and RAM to Profile 1. 300 and 200 on the power CPU turbo settings.
> I have the H100 and the light for the speed isnt coming up just the light on the guy icon on the bottom right.


You aren't boot looping, i think something is dead.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grippen*
> 
> Sorry that was a typing mistake, the current bios IU have is F8 the board is the z77x-d3h
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#ov
> Is there a possibility that the problem comes from the hard drivers or the dual boot I have set up? There is also onboard a card reader that is recognized during the boot, but I have disabled it in the boot order. Should I try to remove one by one the hard drives? or the devices from the usb?


Try to ask stasio for a UD3H BIOS for your board, it would be more updated and might not have these issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface*
> 
> I tried that and still doesnt boot, I have pressed the reset BIOS switch, pulled out the battery, unplugged the computer, unplugged the 24 and 8 pin power plugs from the mobo, plugged it back in took out my ram put another kit in, run off onboard video... still no dice.... unplugged hard drives as well. still wont come up, and before it was showing the level of fan power I had on my cooler and its not doing that anymore ,just lighting up the guy on the bottom right.
> the debug codes go like this when it turns on:
> 15 - Pre-memory North-Bridge initialization is started
> 36 - CPU PEU initialization
> 4F - Reserved
> 60 - DXE Core is started
> then it dies, and loops again, sometimes it even tried the backup bios and it still doesnt work. I Think my board just died on me.... or CPU... and it just had a great overclocking experience with this board and was ready to start installing games...


ends at code 60,that isn't normal. Something could be hurt.

Check your memory, what memory runs at 1.3v with XMP profile? You could have killed the CPU's IMC, pr perhaps the system is in shock.

Try to check your cooler, do you have the stock Intel cooler, can you try replacing the cooler.

Also check your PSU. Unplug your GPU and remove it from the board and plug into the iGPU.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Here is the deal, the Z77 PCH runs 0.6W hotter than the Z68 PCH 6.7w versus 6.1w, it accounts for the PCH's higher temperature. Now does it matter? No. Why? Because PCH temperature really doesn't impact the performance. It just runs on the warm side. You can replace the paste sure, I doubt if you decreased the temperature that it would actually help something, as the chipset is running within spec.
> Sometimes some memory like samsungs don't do tight cas latencies.
> Yea ill give you a profile.
> You aren't boot looping, i think something is dead.
> Try to ask stasio for a UD3H BIOS for your board, it would be more updated and might not have these issues.
> ends at code 60,that isn't normal. Something could be hurt.
> Check your memory, what memory runs at 1.3v with XMP profile? You could have killed the CPU's IMC, pr perhaps the system is in shock.
> Try to check your cooler, do you have the stock Intel cooler, can you try replacing the cooler.
> Also check your PSU. Unplug your GPU and remove it from the board and plug into the iGPU.


I ran my RAM under 1.65v (profile 1) I tried putting the monitor on the integrated gpu and taking out the gpu, didn't change anything. I'll have to try the stock intel cooler. I also tried another set of RAM (1600mhz cas 9 1.5v stuff)

I was also on bios f6a if that matters.

I got my cpu from fry's and mobo from newegg (through shoprunner) so returns shouldn't be that big of an issue, im just surprised if something is dead since it ran prime for 13 hours with no crashes.


----------



## Sin0822

yea I have been using F6A for all my testing, never had an issue like that, and I went subzero too.

Something might have gone wrong, perhaps the OC corrupted the BIOS. But usually when a board hits a random POST code that usually isn't hit, then something is broken. Usually some part of the CPU.

Try unplugging the PSU, take out the batter, disconnect everything, and hold down clear CMOS, or short the jumper for 10minutes+(easiest would be to short the jumper)

Now you didn't really explain it well, what exactly happened? you let it run prime95 for 13 hours and what were doing at the end? sleeping?

For instance some things that could have happened, the CPU overheated if the pump in the cooler failed, it could have permanently damaged the CPU. The memory might have an issue, or the board might have an issue as well.

after you clear the CMOS, try both BIOSes, if neither works, try powering up, hit the power button once, then hit it again but hold it down for 10 seconds, then release and hit it again.


----------



## fasty

I'm puzzled at system fan control on the Z77X-UD5H.
My front panel fans are connected to SYS_FAN1 and SYS_FAN2.
Fan control is set to silent at the moment. For reference, BIOS is F7.

All the fans seem to do is switch between around half speed and full speed. There's doesn't seem to be the "proportional" adjustment of fan speed with temperature that I was expecting.
The switch between half and full speed seems almost random, although I'd guess that perhaps it goes to full when something warms up and reverts to half when it's cooler again.
I expected much more sophisticated fan control.
It is possible to switch between Voltage and PWM control for the CPU fan, but I don't recall seeing any such option for the system fans.
Ideas, anyone ?


----------



## gooface

Sorry I didn't explain well. So this is what happened.

I just was done running prime all night (13 hour run) and took a screenshot of it, then I closed out of everything and reset my PC from windows, thinking I was going to backup my bios settings to a flash drive so if anything happened I would still have the variables that I set.. And then it was restarting and then the PC turned off,(no lights, fans turned off) and then It came back on with no display and then turned off again then on again with no display, and it keeps doing this.

My temps were great(high temps were in the lower mid 70's, and the majority of the time it was in the mid 60's)


----------



## jellyfish98

hey all, hoping someone can help me with an error i'm running into. i recently built 2 identical systems (i'll spec out below) and one is having issues with xmp (i think). it seams that whenever i do a windows update and shutdown i get several beeps on startup and the system restarts pushing me back to default bios settings. i've done no ovverclocking outside of enabling xms profile 1. any clud as to what might be causing this?

build

Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H mobo running f7 bios
intel i5-3750
1x G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9S-8GXM
sapphire radeon 6959 2gb

i'm trying to figure out if this is a memory issue or a mobo issue..any thoughts?

thanks


----------



## gtfoxy

I just picked up a UD5H & reading these posts I'm not sure it will make it home with me....

This XMP RAM issue you guys are having; any chance your running 1.65V & that is causing an issue...?

I am curious because I was planning on running me kingston Hyper X 1600 (16Gb) that I have been running on XMP 1600 @ 1.65V... Is this an issue perhaps?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> I'm puzzled at system fan control on the Z77X-UD5H.
> My front panel fans are connected to SYS_FAN1 and SYS_FAN2.
> Fan control is set to silent at the moment. For reference, BIOS is F7.
> All the fans seem to do is switch between around half speed and full speed. There's doesn't seem to be the "proportional" adjustment of fan speed with temperature that I was expecting.
> The switch between half and full speed seems almost random, although I'd guess that perhaps it goes to full when something warms up and reverts to half when it's cooler again.
> I expected much more sophisticated fan control.
> It is possible to switch between Voltage and PWM control for the CPU fan, but I don't recall seeing any such option for the system fans.
> Ideas, anyone ?


Dude lol it is fan control, and your temperatures are usually in levels, either idle or load, thus temperature spike, and then fan speed spike. If you want really precise fan speed control, you might want to think about a fan controller.
I think by default all system fans are voltage mode or it might go with CPU voltage/PWM setting, you need 4-pin fan for PWM mode. The difference really isn't that much, but PWM would be more sloped than jagged.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *****xy*
> 
> I just picked up a UD5H & reading these posts I'm not sure it will make it home with me....
> This XMP RAM issue you guys are having; any chance your running 1.65V & that is causing an issue...?
> I am curious because I was planning on running me kingston Hyper X 1600 (16Gb) that I have been running on XMP 1600 @ 1.65V... Is this an issue perhaps?


Dude you really shouldn't have an issue, i have the same memory as you, both the 16GB 1600mhz kit and the 16GB 2133mhz kit, both work fine with XMP. A lot of the issues are rooted to the fact that XMP profile wont set the DRAm voltage, the user still has to do it, that is what I have seen. Also they should all update to the latest BIOS if they have issues. Try it out, you shouldn't have issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellyfish98*
> 
> hey all, hoping someone can help me with an error i'm running into. i recently built 2 identical systems (i'll spec out below) and one is having issues with xmp (i think). it seams that whenever i do a windows update and shutdown i get several beeps on startup and the system restarts pushing me back to default bios settings. i've done no ovverclocking outside of enabling xms profile 1. any clud as to what might be causing this?
> build
> Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H mobo running f7 bios
> intel i5-3750
> 1x G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9S-8GXM
> sapphire radeon 6959 2gb
> i'm trying to figure out if this is a memory issue or a mobo issue..any thoughts?
> thanks


Update your BIOS to F8D, BTW the motherboard should beep when it starts. You have a POST code display, forget the beeps, what does the POST code display say? For it to just restart and go into the BIOS and say OC fail, it has to first hang on a POST code, unless there is another issue. If two are identical with same memory, cpu, and motherboard, and same BIOS and PSU. Then i would think your memory kit isn't good. BTW how often do you do windows updates??? Make sure both boards are on the same XMP, it could be that Windows Update is causing a driver to force the system to reset its BIOS settings, you can blame UEFI for allowing the OS to touch the workings of the BIOS.
BTW try manually setting your voltage on the memory to 1.65v, I think perhaps that you need to update your BIOS and see if it occurs.

BTW it is 3570, not 3570K right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface*
> 
> Sorry I didn't explain well. So this is what happened.
> I just was done running prime all night (13 hour run) and took a screenshot of it, then I closed out of everything and reset my PC from windows, thinking I was going to backup my bios settings to a flash drive so if anything happened I would still have the variables that I set.. And then it was restarting and then the PC turned off,(no lights, fans turned off) and then It came back on with no display and then turned off again then on again with no display, and it keeps doing this.
> My temps were great(high temps were in the lower mid 70's, and the majority of the time it was in the mid 60's)


yea i think perhaps something got damaged, and that is why on restart it was re-initialized and failed. Do you have other memory or PSU?

Did you try the cooler thing?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *recnepsbuh*
> 
> Has anybody used the supplied front USB 3.0 panel? I thought about using this as I could still retain the use of the rears and not have to connect the pass-throughs that go with my case.


I've done what I think you're describing with my Obsidian 650D case, it works well. I just removed the front faceplate from the bracket and it turns into an adapter.


----------



## Sin0822

yea I also use the front bay, it is pretty handy and works well. My case doesn't have any 3.5inch bays, but it came with an adapter to fit a 3.5inch into a 5inch. I know for the G1 series they used to provide a 5inch, but starting with X79 they switched to 3inch, i guess that way they can make enough to provide it with the UD5H as well as the G1.


----------



## mandrix

A few people had contacted me about the UD5H board I sent to Gigabyte for repairs. I have received the board back from Gigabyte, they even updated the BIOS so I'm sure they tested it. Currently the board is in my main system and running well. Gigabyte returned to me via 3 day UPS, there were no questions or hassles. I had bought this new from a prominent vendor who refused to RMA.
Kudos to Gigabyte for outstanding service.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> I'm puzzled at system fan control on the Z77X-UD5H.
> My front panel fans are connected to SYS_FAN1 and SYS_FAN2.
> Fan control is set to silent at the moment. For reference, BIOS is F7.
> All the fans seem to do is switch between around half speed and full speed. There's doesn't seem to be the "proportional" adjustment of fan speed with temperature that I was expecting.
> The switch between half and full speed seems almost random, although I'd guess that perhaps it goes to full when something warms up and reverts to half when it's cooler again.
> I expected much more sophisticated fan control.
> It is possible to switch between Voltage and PWM control for the CPU fan, but I don't recall seeing any such option for the system fans.
> Ideas, anyone ?


Also have you tried setting PWM levels, like 2.5x? I think silent might be just two levels, but the 1.5 or 1.0 or 2.5 you know hat I mean?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> A few people had contacted me about the UD5H board I sent to Gigabyte for repairs. I have received the board back from Gigabyte, they even updated the BIOS so I'm sure they tested it. Currently the board is in my main system and running well. Gigabyte returned to me via 3 day UPS, there were no questions or hassles. I had bought this new from a prominent vendor who refused to RMA.
> Kudos to Gigabyte for outstanding service.


Glad to hear they did right by you!


----------



## Dmac73

Still loving my Z77UD5H. So sexy, so stable. Don't miss ASUS much right now


----------



## Silver5656

anybody know when the freezes/crashes will be fixed for the ud5h?


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Also have you tried setting PWM levels, like 2.5x? I think silent might be just two levels, but the 1.5 or 1.0 or 2.5 you know hat I mean?


I need to experiment some more with the system fan options.
On other boards (e.g. cheap Foxconn) I have been able to make settings to slow the fan down to "almost stopped" for a really quiet system when it is on really low load. This is great when playing music, for example. The super S/N of the Gigabyte audio output isn't so useful if the fans are making a din in the background!

Having seen the 4-pin system fan headers in the UD5H spec, I specially bought some 4-pin PWM-controllable fans to upgrade my system. These should be capable of continuously variable speed, yet as I explained all I can get so far is slow or fast.

It would be very nice to have the fan control flexibility that I have used before on other systems where both the PWM "gain" (i.e. rate of increase in speed with temperature) AND "threshold" (i.e. temperature offset) can be set in BIOS. In fact, Easytune gives this type of response curve adjustment, but it doesn't save those settings for me and I don't want to be forced to always have it loaded.
Having adjustment of PWM gain and threshold allows you to set both the temperature when the fan starts to "kick in" as well as how it gets faster with temperature. With those two controls you have a classic proportional type control system which can be tuned for really good temperature stability. If the fan control is limited to just slow or fast, there will be more variations in system temperature which (by my book) is theoretically worse for reliability.


----------



## gooface

so it looks like my CPU died on me, what could have caused that?

I put another CPU in my board and it fired right up, put my cpu in another board and it doesnt fire up, so I got a bad chip or killed it..

also it looks like my pump took a dump on me, the lights wont come up on the base other than the light for the person icon on the bottom right, the button doesnt make it change speeds.


----------



## Dhalmel

A cpu dieing? That's pretty rare. How much voltage did you have on it on your overclock?


----------



## ChrisB17

Nub question. But how do you guys recommend updating lucid MVP software on this board?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silver5656*
> 
> anybody know when the freezes/crashes will be fixed for the ud5h?


Do you currently have freezes and crashes at total defaults?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> I need to experiment some more with the system fan options.
> On other boards (e.g. cheap Foxconn) I have been able to make settings to slow the fan down to "almost stopped" for a really quiet system when it is on really low load. This is great when playing music, for example. The super S/N of the Gigabyte audio output isn't so useful if the fans are making a din in the background!
> Having seen the 4-pin system fan headers in the UD5H spec, I specially bought some 4-pin PWM-controllable fans to upgrade my system. These should be capable of continuously variable speed, yet as I explained all I can get so far is slow or fast.
> It would be very nice to have the fan control flexibility that I have used before on other systems where both the PWM "gain" (i.e. rate of increase in speed with temperature) AND "threshold" (i.e. temperature offset) can be set in BIOS. In fact, Easytune gives this type of response curve adjustment, but it doesn't save those settings for me and I don't want to be forced to always have it loaded.
> Having adjustment of PWM gain and threshold allows you to set both the temperature when the fan starts to "kick in" as well as how it gets faster with temperature. With those two controls you have a classic proportional type control system which can be tuned for really good temperature stability. If the fan control is limited to just slow or fast, there will be more variations in system temperature which (by my book) is theoretically worse for reliability.


Try some of the PWM settings other than set presets. Do you have the CPU fan control mode set to voltage or PWM? I personally have mostly all 3-pin fan connectors and they work fine, just if the temperature is going to be the CPU temperature, the issue with Ivy bridge is that there is no slope, just a slope of 0, as in rise is 1 but the run is 0, you know slope=rise/run in laymen terms. Well if it takes less than 1second for iy bridge to hit its temperature, then you won't get scaling. On other platforms you will though.
Why not use easytune? are you sure it resets? or is it just that you have to have easytune start up to have that kind of control?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface*
> 
> so it looks like my CPU died on me, what could have caused that?
> I put another CPU in my board and it fired right up, put my cpu in another board and it doesnt fire up, so I got a bad chip or killed it..
> also it looks like my pump took a dump on me, the lights wont come up on the base other than the light for the person icon on the bottom right, the button doesnt make it change speeds.


So basically your cooler died and killed your CPU because it overheated, yea that is what i figured happened. I was wondering why the heck my system wouldn't boot and I kept freezing up on windows login, then i remembered I didn't plug in the pump, and CPU temp was through the roof. that is why i told you to switch coolers, because the CPU heats up so fast, that it can really get hurt, especially with an OC applied to it, if there isn't some type of active cooling. I am sure 13 hours of prime95 didn't help it either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Nub question. But how do you guys recommend updating lucid MVP software on this board?


I would download the latest version and uninstall the last one, why are you having issues? or are you just trying t install it? i didn't know they came out with updates for it.


----------



## gooface

Thats a pic I took right before it died, it makes no sense, temps were fine, and volts were fine...


----------



## Sin0822

I am sorry, well if your pump died that kind of gives you an idea, doesn't it? BTW what brand cooler is it?

BTW can you RMA your CPU? or do you have the OC protection plan? I am sure Intel will replace it, just don't tell them you OCed it.

EDIT: NVM i see your pump listed as H100.


----------



## gooface

I am going to return it to fry's tomorrow for either a refund or replacement (if they have any)


----------



## Silver5656

I do experience crashes/freezes on stock settings (well optimized defaults). This happens after it boots into windows and within the first 10 seconds. If it makes it past 10 seconds its totally stable. Seems to happen about 10% of the time or so. Also happens when i change ram timings and voltages (which is the only oc'ing i'm doing)


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silver5656*
> 
> I do experience crashes/freezes on stock settings (well optimized defaults). This happens after it boots into windows and within the first 10 seconds. If it makes it past 10 seconds its totally stable. Seems to happen about 10% of the time or so. Also happens when i change ram timings and voltages (which is the only oc'ing i'm doing)


I would RMA the board.

What BIOS are you on? Is your windows updated?


----------



## samwiches

Do you know if there are release notes for the BIOS updates?


----------



## Silver5656

lol this is my 2nd board. the first one did the same as well (although it seemed more frequent on the first board). Running bios f8d, and windows was updated a couple days ago


----------



## Sin0822

stasio gets the BIOSes from HQ, some of them come with release notes, but the only way to read them on the betas is to go over to tweak town forums and read through the thread, i think F8D came with a few about system compatibility, fixing power on/off issues, and something else. F8D seems to be a good beta. BTW if you are wondering why tweaktown, it is because TT is GB USA official forums...

listen if you guys could start PMing me with long term issues that haven't yet been resolved id appreciate that(like keyboard issues with model number please, fan control stuff, it would be good to know what fan ports and settings you tried), post em here too, but PM me as well so that I can gather them as it is hard to read through so many pages! haha. I try to respond to everyone so no one feels ignored, but sometimes i miss things. Also next week, or the week after is better i will be gone for 2 weeks, i will still check, and if you could get all your long term issues PMed to me by Wednesday/Thursday that would be great.


----------



## Silver5656

I read that this could be solved by raising the bclk from 100 to 100.01? but was wondering if a bios update was planned for this


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silver5656*
> 
> lol this is my 2nd board. the first one did the same as well (although it seemed more frequent on the first board). Running bios f8d, and windows was updated a couple days ago


Can you tell me what SSD you are using? It is sandforce based by any chance?

Did you already try setting vcore manually, if you use two sticks of the samsung green does it happen? There are compatibility issues, i didn't' check to see if the samsung issues had been fixed, i know for a fact that they run 1600mhz by default, if you change it to 1333mhz do you have BSODs?

if you set your BCLk to 100.00 or 100.01 does it help? Yes they have already lowered stock BCLK to 100.09 or something, your CPU should be able to handle that. BTW it would be helpful if you can list all your parts. BTW you don't have an XP install you could test out could you?


----------



## Silver5656

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Can you tell me what SSD you are using? It is sandforce based by any chance?
> Did you already try setting vcore manually, if you use two sticks of the samsung green does it happen? There are compatibility issues, i didn't' check to see if the samsung issues had been fixed, i know for a fact that they run 1600mhz by default, if you change it to 1333mhz do you have BSODs?
> if you set your BCLk to 100.00 or 100.01 does it help? Yes they have already lowered stock BCLK to 100.09 or something, your CPU should be able to handle that. BTW it would be helpful if you can list all your parts. BTW you don't have an XP install you could test out could you?


using a crucial m4 ssd

have not set vcore manually, everything is on auto (except sometimes ram timings/voltage)

It happens with 2 sticks

I have never gotten a BSOD, this only happens after it boots into windows and always within the first 10 seconds. It either freezes (computer still on, just nothing responds) or crashes(shuts down)

i havent updated my parts as some have not been installed or have been changed out

3770k
ud5h
4x4gb samsung
corsair 850hx
win 7 pro sp1 updated


----------



## ElectricDelta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Have you tried plugging first into the two USB 2.0 ports then the USB 3.0? If you plug into the front panel ports, does the same thing occur.
> BTW more USB devices you have, or devices in general, the longer the POST will be, that is how it works as each device needs to be initialized.
> Do you have another system to try that USB microphone on?


Keyboard (Steelseries Merc Stealth) and mouse (CM Storm Spawn) are both connected to the USB 2.0 ports on the back. The USB-MA Microphone Adapter is connected to the front panel USB ports (via a USB 2.0 header on the mobo; usually I leave it plugged in all the time. I also have a Koutech 3.5" panel USB flash card reader connected to another USB 2.0 mobo header. I'm only using one USB 3.0 port on the rear, connected to an external Belkin USB 2.0 hub; downstream from the hub is an Epson Perfection 1650 scanner, a Microsoft Force Feedback 2 joystick, and a Thermaltake USB to SATA hard drive dock "toaster". I have to disconnect the hub from the USB 3.0 port, in order to get into BIOS, otherwise it will hang shortly after hitting DEL; if I don't hit DEL, it will boot into Windows, whether the hub is connected or not. When booting to Windows, there is a delay before the keyboard starts working again (it works right away at POST, then quits during boot (lights go out), up until the log-in prompt + ~10s delay, while the mouse is working well before the keyboard). This build (sig rig below) replaces my Core2Quad Q9650 / GA-EP45-UD3R / G. Skill RAM, in the same case, all of the rest of the system is the same (ok, I finally took out the archaic floppy drive, and put in the included Gigabyte USB 3.0 front panel in its place, but haven't even used it yet). Everything connected to the hub works fine, without fail, in Windows. The keyboard and USB-MA always worked immediately and flawlessly on the previous motherboard, which has now been relegated to HTPC duty in a new case. Keyboard and USB-MA still work fine with the old mobo, as before, first time, every time, no re-plugging needed. I realize it takes time for the system to initialize each USB device, but see no reason the UD5H would be slower to do so than my old GA-EP45-UD3R mobo, with the same configuration (except all USB 2.0 instead of USB 3.0 on the old mobo). The keyboard isn't that big an issue for me, the delay is only a minor annoyance, but when the USB-MA fails to start, I don't notice it, until I try to use Teamspeak or Ventrilo, when they fail to find the mic. At that point, I end up having to unplug, re-plug,... until it starts working, and then go through the set-up in Ventrilo or Teamspeak again, since it messes up the config when the mic goes missing.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silver5656*
> 
> using a crucial m4 ssd
> have not set vcore manually, everything is on auto (except sometimes ram timings/voltage)
> It happens with 2 sticks
> I have never gotten a BSOD, this only happens after it boots into windows and always within the first 10 seconds. It either freezes (computer still on, just nothing responds) or crashes(shuts down)
> i havent updated my parts as some have not been installed or have been changed out
> 3770k
> ud5h
> 4x4gb samsung
> corsair 850hx
> win 7 pro sp1 updated


Try setting your vcore to 1.22v see if it helps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> Keyboard (Steelseries Merc Stealth) and mouse (CM Storm Spawn) are both connected to the USB 2.0 ports on the back. The USB-MA Microphone Adapter is connected to the front panel USB ports (via a USB 2.0 header on the mobo; usually I leave it plugged in all the time. I also have a Koutech 3.5" panel USB flash card reader connected to another USB 2.0 mobo header. I'm only using one USB 3.0 port on the rear, connected to an external Belkin USB 2.0 hub; downstream from the hub is an Epson Perfection 1650 scanner, a Microsoft Force Feedback 2 joystick, and a Thermaltake USB to SATA hard drive dock "toaster". I have to disconnect the hub from the USB 3.0 port, in order to get into BIOS, otherwise it will hang shortly after hitting DEL; if I don't hit DEL, it will boot into Windows, whether the hub is connected or not. When booting to Windows, there is a delay before the keyboard starts working again (it works right away at POST, then quits during boot (lights go out), up until the log-in prompt + ~10s delay, while the mouse is working well before the keyboard). This build (sig rig below) replaces my Core2Quad Q9650 / GA-EP45-UD3R / G. Skill RAM, in the same case, all of the rest of the system is the same (ok, I finally took out the archaic floppy drive, and put in the included Gigabyte USB 3.0 front panel in its place, but haven't even used it yet). Everything connected to the hub works fine, without fail, in Windows. The keyboard and USB-MA always worked immediately and flawlessly on the previous motherboard, which has now been relegated to HTPC duty in a new case. Keyboard and USB-MA still work fine with the old mobo, as before, first time, every time, no re-plugging needed. I realize it takes time for the system to initialize each USB device, but see no reason the UD5H would be slower to do so than my old GA-EP45-UD3R mobo, with the same configuration (except all USB 2.0 instead of USB 3.0 on the old mobo). The keyboard isn't that big an issue for me, the delay is only a minor annoyance, but when the USB-MA fails to start, I don't notice it, until I try to use Teamspeak or Ventrilo, when they fail to find the mic. At that point, I end up having to unplug, re-plug,... until it starts working, and then go through the set-up in Ventrilo or Teamspeak again, since it messes up the config when the mic goes missing.


try connecting the USb-MA to the backpanel ports?

I know that one of the front panel USB 2.0 headers is a on/off charge port and it has some extra power going to it, it might cause an issue with some devices. If not then try plugging the header into that port, it is the header with red bottom.


----------



## Sin0822

the majority of those were BCLK being set to high at stock. This guys is different.

BTW so as part of your new job as Aus ROG Youtube presenter, are you required to make troll posts in GB help threads????????


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> the majority of those were BCLK being set to high at stock. This guys is different.


Do the Samsung Greens really have problems?
I'm importing them from America too.. 16GB of them
Is there a planned bios fix/way to fix the problem(s)?

Oh, what is the problem!


----------



## Sin0822

I don't think that is what is causing freezes, it could be, but probably not.

There is no XMp profile for them, so i have asked one to be added with more compatibility, also stock timings I think sets T1 instead o T2 with some BIOSes, and it is the only kit i tested with came up at 1600mhz on stock.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a pic I took right before it died, it makes no sense, temps were fine, and volts were fine...


The H100 is a pretty good cooler IF it works reliably. The problem is the units seem to be hit or miss on quality. I had one briefly that would not control the fans properly, after talking to Corsair I decided to just return it.
BUT if the unit died and took your cpu with it maybe Corsair will make it right for you. If nothing else, they seem to have very good customer service.


----------



## irfy

Samsung green 16GB + UD5 still work even with no xmp

DDR 1866 9 9 9 27 cas 1 ive set memory profile to Extreme 1.4v 1.41 & 1.5v all work fine. All other mem timings left to AUTO

Im trying 1.5v as time to time i still get issue when i switch on (powers ON n OFF approx 4 times then boots like nothing happen)
After setting 1.5v im still waiting to see if i get my boot issue.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Since this is my first MB with UEFI i was wondering is the mouse suppose to be very slow and sluggish? I am using a USB mouse (Razer Imperator)


----------



## drotaru

When i first installed my mobo ( UD5H ) i had problems with the memory ( exactly the kind of crashes freezes that Silver5656 is experiencing ) Maybe the vdimm must be set higher or vtt + imc ( thats what i did to get ti perfectly stable ) . Maybe you could try that Silver , or the BCLK that Sin is suggesting


----------



## goldeneye77

About the Creative x-fi emulation software for the UD5H. . . I have it installed, but I've noticed the THX effects only seem to work when using the analog audio ports (either front or back panel).

If I switch to HDMI audio (i.e. when hooked up to my TV) it doesn't seem to alter the audio at all. Is this just the way it is? Might there be something I could adjust to get around this?


----------



## drotaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Since this is my first MB with UEFI i was wondering is the mouse suppose to be very slow and sluggish? I am using a USB mouse (Razer Imperator)


mine is the same, i guess thats the cost of having it


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Since this is my first MB with UEFI i was wondering is the mouse suppose to be very slow and sluggish? I am using a USB mouse (Razer Imperator)


uefi is fast, 3d bios is slow and lag like hell, renders like 10fps, it sucks, just press f1 to disable it and use old 2d bios


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldeneye77*
> 
> About the Creative x-fi emulation software for the UD5H. . . I have it installed, but I've noticed the THX effects only seem to work when using the analog audio ports (either front or back panel).
> If I switch to HDMI audio (i.e. when hooked up to my TV) it doesn't seem to alter the audio at all. Is this just the way it is? Might there be something I could adjust to get around this?


Since you are using the on-board HDMI the sound is coming from the IGPU, not the Realtek chipset. The X-fi software will only work with Realtek ports, optical digital out and front and rear analog outs, if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> uefi is fast, 3d bios is slow and lag like hell, renders like 10fps, it sucks, just press f1 to disable it and use old 2d bios


I dont use 3D UEFI i use the normal 2D UEFI. Mouse movement is very slow and laggy.


----------



## goldeneye77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Since you are using the on-board HDMI the sound is coming from the IGPU, not the Realtek chipset. The X-fi software will only work with Realtek ports, optical digital out and front and rear analog outs, if I'm not mistaken.


That's what I suspected . . . if I get a discrete video card though . . . and connect the S/PDIF motherboard header to the card, and _then_ use the HDMI signal from the _card_ (and not the IGPU) -- I suspect that will be all good??


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I dont use 3D UEFI i use the normal 2D UEFI. Mouse movement is very slow and laggy.


I agree, the mouse and keyboard feel in the UEFI bios is relatively slow. That would be the one suggestion I have for Gigabyte's BIOS engineers. So far, I've found all the official releases to be all-around good. I've had zero issues after I fine tune my OC, which didn't take much time.

Nothing is perfect, but this board is quite good.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I agree, the mouse *and keyboard* feel in the UEFI bios is relatively slow. That would be the one suggestion I have for Gigabyte's BIOS engineers. So far, I've found all the official releases to be all-around good. I've had zero issues after I fine tune my OC, which didn't take much time.
> Nothing is perfect, but this board is quite good.


What are you talking about ?? lol mouse sure needs some improvement but keyboard ?!









@Sin ..just installed
LAN Optimizer (Atheros - Intel 7 series) and i'm getting "not supported on this platform" pop up ,any idea ?

P.S. BTW the Intel LAN port is the upper one (next to red USB/SATA ports)


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldeneye77*
> 
> That's what I suspected . . . if I get a discrete video card though . . . and connect the S/PDIF motherboard header to the card, and _then_ use the HDMI signal from the _card_ (and not the IGPU) -- I suspect that will be all good??


I honestly don't know, as I have never tried. I can't even really speculate. Maybe someone else could answer that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> What are you talking about ?? lol mouse sure needs some improvement but keyboard ?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Sin ..just installed
> LAN Optimizer (Atheros - Intel 7 series) and i'm getting "not supported on this platform" pop up ,any idea ?
> P.S. BTW the Intel LAN port is the upper one (next to red USB/SATA ports)


The mouse is slower than the keyboard for sure. But I'll get a stutter everyone now and again in advanced mode with the keyboard. It's not a negative for me at all, just my honest experience.


----------



## jellyfish98

sorry it's an i5-3570k


----------



## Compaddict

I noticed a few of these boards have a mSATA feature (I should have my Sniper 3 MB by Friday). Is anyone using this on board feature? As far as I can tell it's a mSATA II SSD feature, I was wondering if it makes a big difference?

Currently I have a Crucial M4 64gb & Crucial M4 128gb SSD drives and was thinking, if I use the 64gb (In a SATA3 port) as a cache drive (Running at SATA 3 speed), would it be worth the trouble? I plan to use the 128gb as my boot drive and for programs that would benefit greatly from the speed gain and a SATA 2tb HDD for everything else. Is anyone using either of these SSD cache setups and is it a feature worth using?


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> the majority of those were BCLK being set to high at stock. This guys is different.
> 
> *BTW so as part of your new job as Aus ROG Youtube presenter, are you required to make troll posts in GB help threads????????*


Lol. whut? Are you talking to that guy named JJ?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldeneye77*
> 
> About the Creative x-fi emulation software for the UD5H. . . I have it installed, but I've noticed the THX effects only seem to work when using the analog audio ports (either front or back panel).
> If I switch to HDMI audio (i.e. when hooked up to my TV) it doesn't seem to alter the audio at all. Is this just the way it is? Might there be something I could adjust to get around this?


No you gotat use the onboard TOSLINK ports, it wont pass through HDMI.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> mine is the same, i guess thats the cost of having it


here is mine mouse in UEFI, i just made this for the sniper 3 review showing how to use profiles: 



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Since you are using the on-board HDMI the sound is coming from the IGPU, not the Realtek chipset. The X-fi software will only work with Realtek ports, optical digital out and front and rear analog outs, if I'm not mistaken.


it will only work with the on board realtek connected one. So yea you are right jayhay.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> What are you talking about ?? lol mouse sure needs some improvement but keyboard ?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Sin ..just installed
> LAN Optimizer (Atheros - Intel 7 series) and i'm getting "not supported on this platform" pop up ,any idea ?
> P.S. BTW the Intel LAN port is the upper one (next to red USB/SATA ports)


I think Lan Optimizer only works for realtek, or perhaps try to install the one off the disk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Lol. whut? Are you talking to that guy named JJ?


No I think this guy is going to do what JJ does, JJ would never have the indecency to do something like that. There is a general understanding between manufacturers not to interject in each others online help threads and forums. Like you wont see any asus guys over at tweaktown gigabyte section, and you wont see any gigabyte guys on ROG forums. You also wont see Raja come into this thread and you wont see Dino go into the asus help threads. It common courtesy, you definitively don't see a user go around and troll gigabyte help threads and post crap like that, i mean he even went to a help thread for the D3H and posted looks like the UD5H has problem, it is like dude it isn't even the same board... he just wanted to post it.

At XS they have a lot of company reps and that is also the rule, i would expect that is how it is here as well, as it is the only thing that makes sense. i was talking t the hardware rep who posted above me.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Lol. whut? Are you talking to that guy named JJ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I think this guy is going to do what JJ does, JJ would never have the indecency to do something like that. There is a general understanding between manufacturers not to interject in each others online help threads and forums. Like you wont see any asus guys over at tweaktown gigabyte section, and you wont see any gigabyte guys on ROG forums. You also wont see Raja come into this thread and you wont see Dino go into the asus help threads. It common courtesy, you definitively don't see a user go around and troll gigabyte help threads and post crap like that, i mean he even went to a help thread for the D3H and posted looks like the UD5H has problem, it is like dude it isn't even the same board... he just wanted to post it.
> 
> At XS they have a lot of company reps and that is also the rule, i would expect that is how it is here as well, as it is the only thing that makes sense. i was talking t the hardware rep who posted above me.
Click to expand...

Fo sho. I just didn't get it. I thought you were actually addressing him.

Right now I'm watching JJ do the intro of the ASUS 670 DCUII TOP. They've got some VRM things right under the GPU socket.









I do have the Windforce coming. Not to be so offtopic, but have you had a look at it? It's doing well in the 670 overclocking thread.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Fo sho. I just didn't get it. I thought you were actually addressing him.


there was no sarcasm the mods removed the posts, I was serious. I have no idea who he is, so i went through his previous posts, and one of them said he just moved to sydney to take up that job.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> listen if you guys could start PMing me with long term issues that haven't yet been resolved id appreciate that(like keyboard issues with model number please, fan control stuff, it would be good to know what fan ports and settings you tried), post em here too, but PM me as well so that I can gather them as it is hard to read through so many pages! haha. I try to respond to everyone so no one feels ignored, but sometimes i miss things. Also next week, or the week after is better i will be gone for 2 weeks, i will still check, and if you could get all your long term issues PMed to me by Wednesday/Thursday that would be great.


I've been having issues using usb 3.0 external drives. It stutters the system when transferring files and randomly disconnects. I'm currently on bios F7. I have this:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10315&cs_id=1031502&p_id=8078&seq=1&format=4#feedback and a Seagate USB 3.0 external drive.

Also, I noticed if I turn on sata hotswap or turn off firewire in bios my system randomly crashes running my current oc. Without these settings my system is 100% stable and runs great.


----------



## gtfoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Dude you really shouldn't have an issue, i have the same memory as you, both the 16GB 1600mhz kit and the 16GB 2133mhz kit, both work fine with XMP. A lot of the issues are rooted to the fact that XMP profile wont set the DRAm voltage, the user still has to do it, that is what I have seen. Also they should all update to the latest BIOS if they have issues. Try it out, you shouldn't have issues.


OK, but I got the the torches soaked & the pich's sharpened, just incase...









Someone above asked about the msata deal on the board. Mine has that & the sales dude @ MC said they have no idea where I can possibly get one of these?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> Fo sho. I just didn't get it. I thought you were actually addressing him.
> Right now I'm watching JJ do the intro of the ASUS 670 DCUII TOP. They've got some VRM things right under the GPU socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have the Windforce coming. Not to be so offtopic, but have you had a look at it? It's doing well in the 670 overclocking thread.


I know that their 680 SOC will be really sweet, like no need to mod or anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> I've been having issues using usb 3.0 external drives. It stutters the system when transferring files and randomly disconnects. I'm currently on bios F7. I have this:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10315&cs_id=1031502&p_id=8078&seq=1&format=4#feedback and a Seagate USB 3.0 external drive.
> Also, I noticed if I turn on sata hotswap or turn off firewire in bios my system randomly crashes running my current oc. Without these settings my system is 100% stable and runs great.


Okay cool thanks. I actually have an external USB 3.0 thing as well, but I use SSD, and i don't have stutter. Have you tried different USB ports?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *****xy*
> 
> OK, but I got the the torches soaked & the pich's sharpened, just incase...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone above asked about the msata deal on the board. Mine has that & the sales dude @ MC said they have no idea where I can possibly get one of these?


lol cool









mSATA? I am pretty sure newegg and microcenter carry them, i just don't have one.
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0374053


----------



## Compaddict

I was looking at a mSATA drive at Newegg -

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227750&nm_mc=OTC-Froogle&cm_mmc=OTC-Froogle-_-Solid+State+Disk-_-OCZ+Technology-_-20227750

*Following quotes from Gigabyte Sniper 3 Overview Page:* http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4169#ov
Quote:


> GIGABYTE 7 series motherboards feature an onboard mSATA slot allowing users to easily take advantage of advanced SSD-based technologies like Intel® Smart Response and Intel® Rapid Start. Mounting an affordable, low capacity mSATA SSD directly onto your motherboard can enhance your PC's performance with better overall desktop responsiveness, faster boot times and faster system resume from 'Suspend to Disk' and 'Standby' modes.


*GIGABYTE EZ Smart Response*
Quote:


> The GIGABYTE EZ Smart Response utility is a simple application that allows users to quickly and easily configure their system for Intel® Smart Response Technology. In the past, enabling Intel® Smart Response meant users needed to enter the BIOS in order to configure their system for RAID mode, which then required a complete reinstall of the operating system. Once that processes was complete, users then needed to install the Intel® Rapid Storage Utility as well as configure Intel's Smart Response Technology. GIGABYTE EZ Smart Response does all of this automatically, without users having to perform a complicated install process. This allows them to quickly and effortlessly enjoy a significant boost in system performance.


*Intel® Rapid Start Technology*
Quote:


> Intel® Rapid Start Technology™ gets your device up and running faster from even the deepest sleep. This means users will be able to experience almost zero power draw from their PC, but be able to resume Windows® 7 is a few seconds without having the PC go through a full system boot. With Intel® Rapid Start Technology the previous session resumes to the exact as it was, so that applications are still in the same state and no application data is lost.


I was hoping someone who had experience with this might share some info about how well it works.


----------



## Sin0822

no idea man, i don't know anyone who uses mSATA SSD, it seems like most people just get normal sized ones, as i don't see a benefit to using the small versus big except that they make more smaller sized SSDs <60GB in mSATA opposed to normal SATA. .

I think what the mSATA SSD is really used for is for SSD caching, in that case a small 20-40GB SSD is used, but i think most people on this forum and others for OCing like extreme systems and thus use like 64gb and usually 128GB SSDs, and don't' use the caching as it isn't' as fast as a full on SSD.

Are you in the market to get one?


----------



## gtfoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> no idea man, i don't know anyone who uses mSATA SSD, it seems like most people just get normal sized ones, as i don't see a benefit to using the small versus big except that they make more smaller sized SSDs <60GB in mSATA opposed to normal SATA. .
> I think what the mSATA SSD is really used for is for SSD caching, in that case a small 20-40GB SSD is used, but i think most people on this forum and others for OCing like extreme systems and thus use like 64gb and usually 128GB SSDs, and don't' use the caching as it isn't' as fast as a full on SSD.
> Are you in the market to get one?


As for me: I dunno, reading the post above yours, it does intrigue me though, (makes me mad also cause dude just shrugged me off at microcenter, thanks for that BTW, rep +)as I have been looking at only a caching drive for internet and some programs I run.

That being said, for $70 I can get a cheap SSD, but I would then have to reload the OS, which in my other thread I stated I didn't want to do... Now, to say that is the way I read the GB statement on the EZ smart response.


----------



## sixor

about intel smart response, it takes almost 10gb off my ssd, so no thank you, i won´t use that

i believe it takes a little more disk space of your ram, so 8gb ram = almost 10gb off the ssd


----------



## Sin0822

i think there is a max limit, and yea i think you don't need to re-install your OS for SSD caching to work. You can always use norton ghost to copy your current HDD to an SSD.


----------



## coolhandluke41

I was searching for some help in regard to implementing the mSATA SSD on this board ,the max size for caching that you should use is like 60Gb but you only need around 30Gb (the 30Gb are pretty cheap ),60Gb should be sufficient if you want just OS on it
here are two i was interested in
http://www.overclock.net/t/1240626/os-caching-on-single-msata-ssd-anyone-familiar-with-this-ssd#post_16927033

some good links here

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?274398-Step-by-step-guide-to-setting-up-SSD-caching-on-Z68

http://www.overclock.net/t/1227655/how-to-set-up-intel-smart-response-technology-ssd-caching

P.S.the mSATA SSD have been around for sometime now (laptops)and they are pretty good
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4329/intel-z68-chipset-smart-response-technology-ssd-caching-review/4
http://thessdreview.com/category/our-reviews/msata-our-reviews/
http://www.tweaktown.com/cse/?cx=partner-pub-5691419200769206%3A2xa55r-1tae&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=msata&sa=Search


----------



## Compaddict

Thanks for the links!









I'm guessing Gigabyte added this feature to their top end boards for a reason (More Speed). If you look at the shape of the mSATA drive and where it connects to the MB, you will see it couldn't have been easy to build it into the board. I have to believe it makes a difference for them to go through all this trouble.

Another quote from Gigabyte:
Quote:


> The GIGABYTE EZ Smart Response utility is a simple application that allows users to quickly and easily configure their system for Intel® Smart Response Technology. In the past, enabling Intel® Smart Response meant users needed to enter the BIOS in order to configure their system for RAID mode, which then required a complete reinstall of the operating system. Once that processes was complete, users then needed to install the Intel® Rapid Storage Utility as well as configure Intel's Smart Response Technology. GIGABYTE EZ Smart Response does all of this automatically, without users having to perform a complicated install process. This allows them to quickly and effortlessly enjoy a significant boost in system performance.


I'm going to use my 64gb M4 SSD as a cache drive only when I put this rig together. I will let you know if I think it was all worth it when I'm done.


----------



## gtfoxy

Speaking as a consumer:

This mSATA is something that is only going to penetrate this market segment if there is an added enticement from the board manufacturer. I see this for the reason sin stated; many just go directly to a larger SSD & run a much larger HDD as storage.

They could easily include a rebate for a mSATA from a single or multiple manufacturers of said device. That way those purchasing a board with this touted ability, such as myself, feel a simple added perk to buying said device that utilizes said device. This would also, in my opinion, lend itself to the thought process that GB believes people will indeed find an added value through system performance with this upgrade they helped provide & would thus spread the word more readily about the product they own & enjoy... But that's just me..


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compaddict*
> 
> Thanks for the links!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing Gigabyte added this feature to their top end boards for a reason (More Speed). If you look at the shape of the mSATA drive and where it connects to the MB, you will see it couldn't have been easy to build it into the board. I have to believe it makes a difference for them to go through all this trouble.
> Another quote from Gigabyte:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The GIGABYTE EZ Smart Response utility is a simple application that allows users to quickly and easily configure their system for Intel® Smart Response Technology. In the past, enabling Intel® Smart Response meant users needed to enter the BIOS in order to configure their system for RAID mode, which then required a complete reinstall of the operating system. Once that processes was complete, users then needed to install the Intel® Rapid Storage Utility as well as configure Intel's Smart Response Technology. GIGABYTE EZ Smart Response does all of this automatically, without users having to perform a complicated install process. This allows them to quickly and effortlessly enjoy a significant boost in system performance.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to use my 64gb M4 SSD as a cache drive only when I put this rig together. I will let you know if I think it was all worth it when I'm done.
Click to expand...

I was thinking about this, i may end up getting a 32GB mSata SSD for cache though!


----------



## Compaddict

Since this SSD is on it's own channel, I'm thinking it may help quite a bit (Like RAID-0 speed). Since they have made it easy to install (And remove) I figure why not give it a try? Someone will probably stop by and post that has tried this out before since it was also on the Z67 boards (Because this is OCN and we try anything to get more speed).


----------



## coolhandluke41

Ok guys, i will let you know if my BF3 is loading any quicker


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Ok guys, i will let you know if my BF3 is loading any quicker


Lol, i've just got BF3 on my SSD! It'll load heaps quicker for me when i get all my ram!


----------



## homestyle

anyone successfully overclocking the samsung 30nm ram on this board?

I've got timings manually set in the bios to the default numbers thats listed on the left side.

1.5 volts and 2000 mhz with 11-11-11-28 and prime fails in 2 minutes. so disappointing.

got it back to 1.46 volts, 1866, same timings, and so far prime stable for an hour.

But reading that large thread about this ram, got me so hyped up for it and now just bleh.

BTW, I'm running performance enhance turbo (whatever that means).


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> anyone successfully overclocking the samsung 30nm ram on this board?
> I've got timings manually set in the bios to the default numbers thats listed on the left side.
> 1.5 volts and 2000 mhz with 11-11-11-28 and prime fails in 2 minutes. so disappointing.
> got it back to 1.46 volts, 1866, same timings, and so far prime stable for an hour.
> But reading that large thread about this ram, got me so hyped up for it and now just bleh.
> BTW, I'm running performance enhance turbo (whatever that means).


Eh, i'm hyped for it too..
Tell us how it goes, if it's not that great i'll just get 8GB of ripjaws locally and then get another 8GB in the next couple of weeks, saves importing RAM.









Mind you, double the ram only works out $25 more for the Samsung kit and it is technically better..

EDIT: That or i'll wait out some more and get 2x 8GB sticks, meaning i'll be able to max the memory if i ever need it!


----------



## Sin0822

you should do much better than 2000mhz, at least 2200mhz. If you are referring to the thread on XS, beware those guys don't say how many modules they binned nor what kind of cooling. The guy posting the 2800mhz and 2600mhz shots towards the end later said one stick died on him because he cooled them with DICE. Also some kits don't do well at all, some get tick at around 2200mhz, never heard of one at 2k tho.

ANyways Samsung memory has no issues on these GB boards, however that memory kit in particular hasn't been optimized, so it stops at around 2400mhz, if you try one stick in slot #2 how high does it clock?

I am going to bring this issue upfront next week, so even if it isn't clocking so well now, 2000mhz requires you to be better with the timings and voltage(try 1.65v), it should improve with BIOS updates.

Also try superpi 32m for memory stability.

BTW your timings are way too lose.

FYI go to the third section of timings(the 34rd timings) and change all of those to 8s and then the last two to 7s, that will help. Also the first two, change the first to 10500 and the second to 93. ASUS has this section all loosened up, but GB keeps it very tight for better efficiency, and in general it hinders OC frequency unless loosened. Also try 6s and 7s.

Try stability level 4 or 5 as well for both.

the samsung generic ULV has no XMP, and that is the issue.


----------



## gtfoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compaddict*
> 
> Since this SSD is on it's own channel, I'm thinking it may help quite a bit (Like RAID-0 speed). Since they have made it easy to install (And remove) I figure why not give it a try? Someone will probably stop by and post that has tried this out before since it was also on the Z67 boards (Because this is OCN and we try anything to get more speed).


It drops you down to 3 SATA 2 connections, which concerns me very little at this point... Right now I'm loading windows again.. Hope to have it testing in a while.


----------



## stasio

hicookie break 7GHz & DDR3-3280MHz 4GBX4

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?281216-GIGABYTE-Z77-Boards-Hitt-7GHz-amp-DDR-3280MHz-4GBX4&p=5106108#post5106108


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> hicookie break 7GHz & DDR3-3280MHz 4GBX4
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?281216-GIGABYTE-Z77-Boards-Hitt-7GHz-amp-DDR-3280MHz-4GBX4&p=5106108#post5106108


Not anymore, why?


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Not anymore, why?











yea, removed.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2386564
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2385230


----------



## xPhoto

Hi, i have a question for GIGABYTE Z77X-UD5H owners.

If I use the integrated Ivy Bridge GPU and additional standard PCIx GPU can I connect 4 monitors (2 on MB connectors (DVI+VGA) and 2 on PCIx Graphics Card connectors(DVI+VGA)) and have all four working together in same time in extended mode?


----------



## s4e8

Yes. I can enable both 2 iGFX connectors and 3 dGPU(6850) connectors.


----------



## drotaru

What is the difference between using the regular vcore method of OC compared to the DVID method ? does it yield better OC ? or just lower temps at idle ?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> What is the difference between using the regular vcore method of OC compared to the DVID method ? does it yield better OC ? or just lower temps at idle ?


It will yield better temps and lower power usage at idle using offset (DVID) simply because it supports downclocking the CPU/Power usage a lot better. Direct VCore essentially eliminates that. I personally use the regular vcore method. Then again, I don't leave my PC running 24/7. It's off when I'm not around now (I used to be the 24/7 user for no reason). If you have a SSD, the computer boots in under 15 seconds anyway.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> What are you talking about ?? lol mouse sure needs some improvement but keyboard ?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Sin ..just installed
> LAN Optimizer (Atheros - Intel 7 series) and i'm getting "not supported on this platform" pop up ,any idea ?
> P.S. BTW the Intel LAN port is the upper one (next to red USB/SATA ports)


I also tried to install the LAN optimizer just for the heck of it and got the same error message. Oh well.


----------



## xPhoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s4e8*
> 
> Yes. I can enable both 2 iGFX connectors and 3 dGPU(6850) connectors.


s4e8 thanks, that is what I looking for.


----------



## gtfoxy

Got it up & running. Current bios f6. No issues as of yet. Did a quick overclock to 4.5Ghz w/ no changes to anything, will stress it 2nite. I am looking to compare this auto tune vs my old ASRock. It did a reboot a few times when I set this OC up, & I was thinkin to myself "oh great, here we go", but it then booted to windows just fine.

Question regarding Dram voltages. As you said Sin,the voltage needed changing manualy when activating XMP. That leads me to my next question; is there any changes required to the other voltages that are set to .75V?

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/image/view/album/628957/id/895456/sort/display_order

I also noticed that my PCH temp is @ 50°C... Shouldn't this be closer to say the mid 30° mark?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I also tried to install the LAN optimizer just for the heck of it and got the same error message. Oh well.


Yeah. If I have only the Intel port plugged in, the Lan Optimizer opens but shows no data. If I have both RJ45 ports in use then I get that same message. Essentially useless.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *****xy*
> 
> Got it up & running. Current bios f6. No issues as of yet. Did a quick overclock to 4.5Ghz w/ no changes to anything, will stress it 2nite. I am looking to compare this auto tune vs my old ASRock. It did a reboot a few times when I set this OC up, & I was thinkin to myself "oh great, here we go", but it then booted to windows just fine.
> Question regarding Dram voltages. As you said Sin,the voltage needed changing manualy when activating XMP. That leads me to my next question; is there any changes required to the other voltages that are set to .75V?
> http://www.overclock.net/gallery/image/view/album/628957/id/895456/sort/display_order
> I also noticed that my PCH temp is @ 50°C... Shouldn't this be closer to say the mid 30° mark?


make sure you take a note of volts.

my cpu would shoot up to 1.32 with auto vcore once i stepped up to 44 multi.


----------



## mandrix

Hmm. Just went back and checked my G Skill 2400 dram voltage, as long as I load Profile 1 the voltage gets correctly set to 1.65 on Auto.
In windows it's around 1.69v whether Auto or Manually set in BIOS.


----------



## crimsonspark

got my z77x ud3h coupled with a 2600k at f5(stock) bios with no issues so far, all hardware are detected and good~


----------



## Sin0822

good to hear!

BTW guys here is my G1.Sniper 3 review: http://www.overclock.net/t/1262935/g1-sniper-3-review-plx8747vsnf200-circuit-analysis-ln2oc-core3d


----------



## gtfoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> make sure you take a note of volts.
> my cpu would shoot up to 1.32 with auto vcore once i stepped up to 44 multi.


It runs the same as my old board did, 1.366 @ x45... Never bothered trying to run it lower. Vcore at clocks above x46 required more voltage for stability so I am sure there is a small margin of "extra" voltage at x45 with my chip but it is stable there & temps are all acceptable...


----------



## ElectricDelta

OK, here's an interesting bit of news regarding the USB issues I was noting on my UD5H, the delay to recognize my USB keyboard (Steelseries Merc Stealth) at the Windows log-in prompt, and the frequent failure of my Andrea Electronics USB-MA microphone adapter to start (showing Error Code 10 in Device Manager). Today I happened to find an update on Intel's website for the USB 3.0 driver. I had been running USB 3.0 driver 1.0.4.220, and the latest is now 1.0.4.225. I installed the new USB 3.0 driver, and lo and behold, the keyboard is now recognized immediately and the USB-MA starts every time! I cold-booted a dozen times, just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. The funny thing is, both keyboard and USB-MA are connected to USB 2.0 ports! Not sure how the USB 3.0 driver can affect the USB 2.0 ports, since they each have their own drivers, or what exactly the hardware-driver-OS relation is that could explain it. Main thing for me, my USB problems are now solved














.


----------



## gtfoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> OK, here's an interesting bit of news regarding the USB issues I was noting on my UD5H, the delay to recognize my USB keyboard (Steelseries Merc Stealth) at the Windows log-in prompt, and the frequent failure of my Andrea Electronics USB-MA microphone adapter to start (showing Error Code 10 in Device Manager). Today I happened to find an update on Intel's website for the USB 3.0 driver. I had been running USB 3.0 driver 1.0.4.220, and the latest is now 1.0.4.225. I installed the new USB 3.0 driver, and lo and behold, the keyboard is now recognized immediately and the USB-MA starts every time! I cold-booted a dozen times, just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. The funny thing is, both keyboard and USB-MA are connected to USB 2.0 ports! Not sure how the USB 3.0 driver can affect the USB 2.0 ports, since they each have their own drivers, or what exactly the hardware-driver-OS relation is that could explain it. Main thing for me, my USB problems are now solved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Very happy to read ya got it workin good, way to go! You are doin better than myself... I managed to need to reboot on the aux. bios already... Didn't try clearin the CMOS yet, guna do that next....


----------



## 2therock

I have the Z77X-UD5H WiFi board with the 3770K and have not had a single problem yet. No BSOD or freezes.
I ran it a long time on the shipped F4. I am running the sweet little Samsung RAM and managed to clock it to 2133 and still no issue after an hour on Prime95.
I backed it off to 1866 for now.
I bumped up to F8 and still no issues. Nada.

I have the latest Intel USB 3.0 drivers installed and have been using a 3.0 card reader. Some blamed the USB 3.0.

I am not an experienced clocker (last time was 2008) and got help getting the RAM to 2133 just to see if it would.

What I need now is help getting a 4.5 clock. I see "LLC" talk but cannot find it. I see Turbo talk but there are so many to choose from. I can see the vCore and multiplyer but get hung up after that with the term LLC and figuring out what Turbo some are speaking of.

I need a little hand holding to get me rolling.

Thanks


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Do the Samsung Greens really have problems?
> I'm importing them from America too.. 16GB of them
> Is there a planned bios fix/way to fix the problem(s)?
> Oh, what is the problem!


I have been running them 4x4GB rock solid and clocked them to 2133 10-10-10-28 1T 1.62v. just to see. I backed them off to 1866 9-9-9-24 2T 1.35v. I am happy to say I have not had ANY of the issues so many have spoke about.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> anyone successfully overclocking the samsung 30nm ram on this board?
> I've got timings manually set in the bios to the default numbers thats listed on the left side.
> 1.5 volts and 2000 mhz with 11-11-11-28 and prime fails in 2 minutes. so disappointing.
> got it back to 1.46 volts, 1866, same timings, and so far prime stable for an hour.
> But reading that large thread about this ram, got me so hyped up for it and now just bleh.
> BTW, I'm running performance enhance turbo (whatever that means).


Try a 2133 10-10-10-28 1T @ 1.62v to 1.65v. Works for me. That was just to see. I now run it @ 1866 9-9-9-24 2T 1.35v.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> I have been running them 4x4GB rock solid and clocked them to 2133 10-10-10-28 1T 1.62v. just to see. I backed them off to 1866 9-9-9-24 2T 1.35v. I am happy to say I have not had ANY of the issues so many have spoke about.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Try a 2133 10-10-10-28 1T @ 1.62v to 1.65v. Works for me. That was just to see. I now run it @ 1866 9-9-9-24 2T 1.35v.


1.62v is too rich for my blood. Too many people were "claiming" 2133 cl 10 and 1.5 volts.

I need to do more tests. I found my cpu overclock with the absolute minimum voltages. I've upped in 0.005 and I'm so far stable with 2000 mhz.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> I have been running them 4x4GB rock solid and clocked them to 2133 10-10-10-28 1T 1.62v. just to see. I backed them off to 1866 9-9-9-24 2T 1.35v. I am happy to say I have not had ANY of the issues so many have spoke about.


Sounds good! My goal is 1866-2000MHz with nice timings!








I'll be ordering it tomorrow hopefully!


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> good to hear!
> 
> BTW guys here is my G1.Sniper 3 review: http://www.overclock.net/t/1262935/g1-sniper-3-review-plx8747vsnf200-circuit-analysis-ln2oc-core3d


Great review and a really complete one with a lot of everything oc included.


----------



## fasty

BIOS F8 (final) for Z77X-UD5H recently posted on Tweaktown forums.


----------



## stasio

As TT forum is still down (for me),I'll post here:

GA-Z77X-UD5H - F8

- 25.May 12


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> As TT forum is still down (for me),I'll post here:
> GA-Z77X-UD5H - F8
> - 25.May 12


Thanks, stasio, I can't get in TT either this morning.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> As TT forum is still down (for me),I'll post here:
> GA-Z77X-UD5H - F8
> - 25.May 12


Thanks!

Any word on a change log or what was updated?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> I have the Z77X-UD5H WiFi board with the 3770K and have not had a single problem yet. No BSOD or freezes.
> I ran it a long time on the shipped F4. I am running the sweet little Samsung RAM and managed to clock it to 2133 and still no issue after an hour on Prime95.
> I backed it off to 1866 for now.
> I bumped up to F8 and still no issues. Nada.
> I have the latest Intel USB 3.0 drivers installed and have been using a 3.0 card reader. Some blamed the USB 3.0.
> I am not an experienced clocker (last time was 2008) and got help getting the RAM to 2133 just to see if it would.
> What I need now is help getting a 4.5 clock. I see "LLC" talk but cannot find it. I see Turbo talk but there are so many to choose from. I can see the vCore and multiplyer but get hung up after that with the term LLC and figuring out what Turbo some are speaking of.
> I need a little hand holding to get me rolling.
> Thanks


LLC = Vcore Loadline Calibration


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Thanks!
> Any word on a change log or what was updated?


No,atm.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> As TT forum is still down (for me),I'll post here:
> GA-Z77X-UD5H - F8
> - 25.May 12


Thanks stasio.
When I said the BIOS was on TT, I probably meant to say Gigabyte UK Forum (slight brain abberation here)
For some reason I couldn't correct original post.
TT is down for me too here.


----------



## stasio

TT forum on now.


----------



## jellyfish98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BTW try manually setting your voltage on the memory to 1.65v, I think perhaps that you need to update your BIOS and see if it occurs.
> BTW it is 3570, not 3570K right?


ok so i followed your advice and updated the bios but no change. so i reverted back to 7, then i tried upping the voltage as you recomended...vola, it's stable; question is though; is it safe for the memory to run at 1.6? or is that what xmp should have set it at, is the memory or bios at fault? should i care? i have another 8gb chip coming tomorrow and just want to make sure that i won't fry 2 chips at 1.6v.

another question; should i push this memory any further? or should i leave well enough alone?


----------



## ElectricDelta

New iRST, RAID, AHCI, VGA, and USB 3.0 drivers for the UD5H showed up today on the Gigabyte official download site. Installed and running perfect here on BIOS F8d, definitely recommend. Gigabyte is still showing F8c as the latest BIOS. Would be interested to hear what "F8 Final" brings to the table(?).


----------



## jayhay

f8 q-flash finally shows my thumb drive on my front usb 2/3.0 ports! Yay!

When I updated from f7, it did not see my thumb. I had to use a rear 2.0 port. I checked to see if f8 would see the thumb on the front usb's, and it did. Which is awesome, 'cause I hate having to wrestle a thumb into my already full rear I/O.

Thanks for liasioning all that info to Gb sin!


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Sorry, once again I have not been on the thread since my last post, been busy with finals and projects, but is does this new F8 BIOS have the setting to allow 2600k to sleep at over 4 GHz? I know sin said he personally had a BIOS that allowed this, does anyone know if it has been implemented in F8, or which revision it might be implemented in the future?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Sorry, once again I have not been on the thread since my last post, been busy with finals and projects, but is does this new F8 BIOS have the setting to allow 2600k to sleep at over 4 GHz? I know sin said he personally had a BIOS that allowed this, does anyone know if it has been implemented in F8, or which revision it might be implemented in the future?


I've been running a 2500k @ 4.53ghz and haven't had a sleep issue on any of the bios's. Is the 2600k different? That would frustrate me if I had a 2600k and it was true. Sleep issues are annoying.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

yea as far as i know there is a setting, the name of which I can't remember at the moment, but without it the 2600 doesn't recover from sleep properly (it resumes a standard multiplier or lower). Fortunately, the computer is my dads photo editing computer, not a main computer or my computer (I would have switched out for another mobo because I use sleep ALL THE TIME). But yea, without the setting sleep won't work at over a multiplier of 40 on the 2600k is the short explanation. Sin said he personally had a BIOS that had the fix, but since it isn't a "major" issue as its a sandy not an ivy, they gigabyte isn't as worried about fixing it as quickly as some other issues. I understand this, seeing as ivy is what this was "built for". but still, I was one of the first 2600k users on here with a UD5H, would be nice to get the sleep ability sooner or later. lol. But I am glad it works for your 2500k, because like you said, sleep issues are super annoying.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> yea as far as i know there is a setting, the name of which I can't remember at the moment, but without it the 2600 doesn't recover from sleep properly (it resumes a standard multiplier or lower). Fortunately, the computer is my dads photo editing computer, not a main computer or my computer (I would have switched out for another mobo because I use sleep ALL THE TIME). But yea, without the setting sleep won't work at over a multiplier of 40 on the 2600k is the short explanation. Sin said he personally had a BIOS that had the fix, but since it isn't a "major" issue as its a sandy not an ivy, they gigabyte isn't as worried about fixing it as quickly as some other issues. I understand this, seeing as ivy is what this was "built for". but still, I was one of the first 2600k users on here with a UD5H, would be nice to get the sleep ability sooner or later. lol. But I am glad it works for your 2500k, because like you said, sleep issues are super annoying.


Ya, bummer man. Honestly, I would figure a lot of UD5H users would be using sandy processors, like us. Especially 2500k and 2600k, since they sold so god d*** well. Hope it gets fixed soon for your pops


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Ya, bummer man. Honestly, I would figure a lot of UD5H users would be using sandy processors, like us. Especially 2500k and 2600k, since they sold so god d*** well. Hope it gets fixed soon for your pops


Haha thanks. Im sure they will fix the issue eventually, as I agree, there has to be a decent amount of users at over 40 multiplier on a 2600k... I got him at 4.5 ghz and everything else is perfect, runs like a dream!


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> New iRST, RAID, AHCI, VGA, and USB 3.0 drivers for the UD5H showed up today on the Gigabyte official download site. Installed and running perfect here on BIOS F8d, definitely recommend. Gigabyte is still showing F8c as the latest BIOS. Would be interested to hear what "F8 Final" brings to the table(?).


the same for ud3h, also f10 f11a bios,

maybe the mouse problems were intel drivers fault,


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> New iRST, RAID, AHCI, VGA, and USB 3.0 drivers for the UD5H showed up today on the Gigabyte official download site. Installed and running perfect here on BIOS F8d, definitely recommend. Gigabyte is still showing F8c as the latest BIOS. Would be interested to hear what "F8 Final" brings to the table(?).










that's quite few drivers and then you have new bios ..how you reinstall AHCI ? (want to make sure i won't screw up this one







)


----------



## jcooper138

Odd issue:

I'm working on my ram OC (x4 Samsung MV-3V4G3/US) and after setting it to 1866 (no other changes, left auto at 1.5v) Tweaklauncher will no longer start.

Errors:

"The Driver can't release to failure!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!" x2
"Don't support the chipset of M.B. now!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!" x5

and then the Windows dialog comes up to kill it.

Immediately before setting ram to 1866 I did upgrade to F8 and the new USB3 and Intel RST drivers from Gigabyte. Any ideas? I don't mind changing things in the bios but it is a bit curious.


----------



## bottjeremy

Did an overclock and posted some bios screenshots here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1254272/i7-3770k-with-gigabyte-ud5h-overclocking-with-pictures

http://www.overclock.net/t/1254272/i7-3770k-with-gigabyte-ud5h-overclocking-with-pictures

These screenshots are not the latest though, but i don't feel like uploading all the changes right now.

Here were the changes i made.

Base clock set to 100.01
Increased CPU VTT to 1.055
Disabled c3/c6
Increased dynamic vcore to +0.055

0 lockups ever @ 4.5ghz.

One thing i did notice is that bios settings stick sometimes. You need to do a F7(Optimized defaults) and reboot to erase those stuck settings.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Haha thanks. Im sure they will fix the issue eventually, as I agree, there has to be a decent amount of users at over 40 multiplier on a 2600k... I got him at 4.5 ghz and everything else is perfect, runs like a dream!


Yea I keep pushing them, IDk why they don't put it in. I will ask again about it. I do have a BIOS that can do it, just I don't know if i can share it. Someone try the F8 see if it is there, it will be in the advanced CPu settings, above the turbo settings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's quite few drivers and then you have new bios ..how you reinstall AHCI ? (want to make sure i won't screw up this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I think GB actually has a program to do this for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcooper138*
> 
> Odd issue:
> I'm working on my ram OC (x4 Samsung MV-3V4G3/US) and after setting it to 1866 (no other changes, left auto at 1.5v) Tweaklauncher will no longer start.
> Errors:
> "The Driver can't release to failure!!"
> "Open driver handle failure!!" x2
> "Don't support the chipset of M.B. now!!"
> "Open driver handle failure!!" x5
> and then the Windows dialog comes up to kill it.
> Immediately before setting ram to 1866 I did upgrade to F8 and the new USB3 and Intel RST drivers from Gigabyte. Any ideas? I don't mind changing things in the bios but it is a bit curious.


Try running as administrator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bottjeremy*
> 
> Did an overclock and posted some bios screenshots here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1254272/i7-3770k-with-gigabyte-ud5h-overclocking-with-pictures
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1254272/i7-3770k-with-gigabyte-ud5h-overclocking-with-pictures
> These screenshots are not the latest though, but i don't feel like uploading all the changes right now.
> Here were the changes i made.
> Base clock set to 100.01
> Increased CPU VTT to 1.055
> Disabled c3/c6
> Increased dynamic vcore to +0.055
> 0 lockups ever @ 4.5ghz.
> One thing i did notice is that bios settings stick sometimes. You need to do a F7(Optimized defaults) and reboot to erase those stuck settings.


Nice job!


----------



## jcooper138

Ah, thanks! That did it. I thought I had set that already but must have missed it.

Now to see if I can figure out how to get past the roadblock at 2000Mhz with the Samsung ram. I took the DRAM voltage to 1.62, 2000Mhz at 9/13/13/35 (auto) and prime still bails in < 30 seconds. Even tried those settings with VTT at 1.075 but no joy. Seems happy at 1866 9/13/13/33 (auto) at stock voltage though so maybe I'll just try to tighten timings and call it a success. i5-3570K @ 4.5 with 1.2v on air so far (I need to verify and stress it) so I can't really complain.


----------



## coolhandluke41

@ Sin ..what program .sorry for mu noobnes







....little tired today (every time i don't know something i tell ppl that i'm tired ) ,also had to get Intel(R) 82579V based Network Controller(OEM)
pretty nifty tool here
http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/detect
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I also tried to install the LAN optimizer just for the heck of it and got the same error message. Oh well.


It works ! ..LAN Optimizer is for Atheros (bottom port )


----------



## sixor

hey guys what about the memory performance preset?

normal
turbo
extreme


----------



## Mandroid

Still trying to get my Samsung modules stable. I would be curious to see if anyone using 2133 or 2400 XMP kits could post screenshots of the ram timings from their BIOS on any of the Gigabyte Z77 boards. I figure it might help getting the secondary and third timings set.


----------



## Sin0822

max out all the third timings that should help a lot, but by doping that (which is already done by default on a lot of other Z77 boards







) you lose a TON of efficiency. Compare it for yourself.

coolhandluke: http://gigabytedaily.blogspot.com/2011/08/gigabyte-launches-disk-mode-switch.html

BTW try higher voltage on the memory, like 1.7v. see what that does, don't worry they don't get hot, but some airflow might be good.

BTW a lot of manufacturers take the 30nm part from samsung and then give it 1.65v and bin it to get those 2400mhz and 2133mhz kits.

Also try VTT/IMC of 1.15v and 1.145v, just increasing VTT by itself doesn't do much past a point.


----------



## scribby

I'm in AHCI mode with the previous Intel AHCI drivers installed (pre-install). Updating to the new AHCI driver using the installer within Windows won't cause any issues, correct?


----------



## ElectricDelta

I extracted the Intel AHCI drivers,and then updated the Intel hard drive controller's driver from the Device Manager, by directing it where to look for the new one, rather than do the full automatic install. Worked fine, no problem, just had to re-boot afterwards, of course.


----------



## eaglepowers

I was on F7 and my USB3 doesn't work right on the front ports or the rear. I'm transferring a 4gb file and it pauses after a couple of seconds and repeats this until it's done. The pauses are around 10sec long. During this time everything seems to work fine, however, in IE I can't access the web during these pauses. Maybe the usb3 pauses are effecting the LAN?

So I decided to try F8. I saved all my oc settings from F7 and loaded them onto F8 after loading defaults 1st. Now the system makes a harsh noise and freezes randomly. So far it's been on for a while before this happens and both times I happen to be playn a video while working in Lightroom. Any ideas? I loaded default settings again and I're-applied all my oc settings manually. Hopefully this fixes my problem?

Current OC 4.5gb and 4x4gb Samsung 1866 9 9 9 24 @ 1.35v.


----------



## coolhandluke41

AHCI installation

here,read me file;

************************************************************
* 5. INSTALLING THE SOFTWARE
************************************************************

5.1 General Installation Notes

1. If you are installing the operating system on a system
configured for RAID or AHCI mode, you must pre-install
the Intel(R) Rapid Storage Technology driver using the
F6 installation method described in section 5.3.

2. The 'Intel(R) Chipset Software Installation Utility'
must be installed on the system after a supported
Microsoft Windows* operating system has been installed.

3. To install Intel(R) Rapid Storage Technology,
double-click on the self-extracting and self-installing
setup file and answer all prompts presented.

4. By default, all installed files (readme.txt, help, etc.)
are copied to the following path:

\Program Files\Intel\Intel(R) Rapid Storage Technology

5.2 Windows Automated Installer* Installation from Hard
Drive or CD-ROM

Note: This method is applicable to systems configured for
RAID or AHCI mode.

1. Download the Intel(R) Rapid Storage Technology setup file
and double-click to self-extract and to begin the setup
process.

2. The Welcome window appears. Click 'Next' to continue.

3. The Uninstallation Warning window appears. Click 'Next'
to continue.

4. The Software License Agreement window appears. If you
agree to these terms, click 'Yes' to continue.

5. The Readme File Information window appears. Click 'Next'
to continue.

6. The Choose Destination Location window appears.
Click 'Next' to continue.

7. The Select Program Folder window appears. Click 'Next'
to continue installing the driver.

8. If the Windows Automated Installer* Wizard Complete window
is shown without a prompt to restart the system, click
'Finish' and proceed to step 9. If it is shown with a
prompt to restart the system, select 'Yes, I want to
restart my computer now.' (selected by default) and
click 'Finish'. Once the system has restarted,
proceed to step 9.

9. To verify that the driver was loaded correctly, refer
to section 6.


----------



## drotaru

Soooo ... is it actually worth using that LAN Optimizer thing ?







, most would have to switch to the atheros ports since overall the intel one is better.

Installed the new RST driver myself . No crashes so far ( have a OCZ Vertex 3 that was crashing with the beta drivers , the ones that have TRIM pass over RAID )


----------



## jcooper138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BTW try higher voltage on the memory, like 1.7v. see what that does, don't worry they don't get hot, but some airflow might be good. BTW a lot of manufacturers take the 30nm part from samsung and then give it 1.65v and bin it to get those 2400mhz and 2133mhz kits. Also try VTT/IMC of 1.15v and 1.145v, just increasing VTT by itself doesn't do much past a point.


Good to know that these chips are being used at 1.65v. I was a bit hesitant to push too hard beforehand.

Tried the voltages but no luck. It did last a little bit longer but ultimately prime95 dies and it blue screened once. Also tried upping vcore just a bit (I'm only at 1.2 so I went to 1.3) but it didn't help. I bought 4 separate so I think I'm going to run each by itself over the weekend and see if one is significantly weaker than the others or something. Like I said, can't really complain about 1866 9-9-9-24-2T and 4.5Ghz at 1.2v on air (Noctua NH-D14) that barely spikes above 70c at full load. I'm sure I'll post some more this weekend while I beat on the individual sticks.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcooper138*
> 
> Good to know that these chips are being used at 1.65v. I was a bit hesitant to push too hard beforehand.
> Tried the voltages but no luck. It did last a little bit longer but ultimately prime95 dies and it blue screened once. Also tried upping vcore just a bit (I'm only at 1.2 so I went to 1.3) but it didn't help. I bought 4 separate so I think I'm going to run each by itself over the weekend and see if one is significantly weaker than the others or something. Like I said, can't really complain about 1866 9-9-9-24-2T and 4.5Ghz at 1.2v on air (Noctua NH-D14) that barely spikes above 70c at full load. I'm sure I'll post some more this weekend while I beat on the individual sticks.


This. Is. Awesome.

In that case I just ordered 16GB of 2133MHz ram!








On the way to a friend in America, then stopping at my place in Aus!









Do we have any proof though?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> I was on F7 and my USB3 doesn't work right on the front ports or the rear. I'm transferring a 4gb file and it pauses after a couple of seconds and repeats this until it's done. The pauses are around 10sec long. During this time everything seems to work fine, however, in IE I can't access the web during these pauses. Maybe the usb3 pauses are effecting the LAN?
> So I decided to try F8. I saved all my oc settings from F7 and loaded them onto F8 after loading defaults 1st. Now the system makes a harsh noise and freezes randomly. So far it's been on for a while before this happens and both times I happen to be playn a video while working in Lightroom. Any ideas? I loaded default settings again and I're-applied all my oc settings manually. Hopefully this fixes my problem?
> Current OC 4.5gb and 4x4gb Samsung 1866 9 9 9 24 @ 1.35v.


update your intel USb 3.0 drivers to the latest, they just updated them. also reflash your BIOS and load optimized defaults.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> update your intel USb 3.0 drivers to the latest, they just updated them. also reflash your BIOS and load optimized defaults.


I updated USB 3.0 to the latest and I still have the same problems. Funny thing is I use to be able to access my thumb drive from my front panel in the bios, but ever since having the usb hub power issue I can't anymore. Not even if I go back to bios F5 or clear cmos again.

I've been going through bios F5,6,7,8 and my OC is now unstable. I don't understand why updating the bios would do this? I get an error within 20min of Prime95. I ran it on defaults for 1 hour and it was fine.

My oc was based on your DVID profile. The only thing I changed was offset 0.00 and I used Turbo for LLC and set my memory different. I've ran Prime95 up to 8 hours several times with no errors reaching max temps of 79c.

I was really happy with my oc and wish I can get it back.


----------



## DavidUD5H

Hello any1 geting Power Surge USB HUB errors?
help please?


----------



## coolhandluke41

^^^ First post and a troll post







i think i know who you are ....nice try ...NOT ! lol


----------



## DavidUD5H

who me?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidUD5H*
> 
> Hello any1 geting Power Surge USB HUB errors?
> help please?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^^ First post and a troll post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think i know who you are ....nice try ...NOT ! lol


Uh, this is a known problem.. Try uninstalling the on/off charge program, that supposedly is what causes it do say that.


----------



## DavidUD5H

Ahh ok thanks for the reply i gt it last night and been checking the net and the guys from gigabyte have no clue what it is. Do you know why this happened and have you had the problem before?


----------



## mandrix

Apparently I was already using the latest/greatest drivers. The USB 3.0 version I was already using for a while. Sure helps to check Intel's site occasionally as Gigabyte isn't very quick to update.

@coolhandluke41 Yay the Lan optimizer is working again. I'm using both ports now that I have my Z68 down.


----------



## DavidUD5H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Apparently I was already using the latest/greatest drivers. The USB 3.0 version I was already using for a while. Sure helps to check Intel's site occasionally as Gigabyte isn't very quick to update.
> @coolhandluke41 Yay the Lan optimizer is working again. I'm using both ports now that I have my Z68 down.


have you had the power surge hub problem?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidUD5H*
> 
> have you had the power surge hub problem?


I never had it, it was somewhere in this thread.. No idea where though.
I remember reading about it somewhere, and the solution being to uninstall the on/off drivers i think..
That or it was a USB 3.0 update/downgrade which makes sense too, either way no-one else has damaged their boards because it'd be on the first post and Gigabyte would remove the driver from their site and/or RMA it.

It's only on the UD5H also, (well from what i've seen) - Only people with the UD5H have been complaining..
It could be a hardware issue? Who knows


----------



## DavidUD5H

Ok kewl man thanks, i recon its a driver issue so i should just remove the on/off charge completely and update to the latest USB 3 drivers which was released yesterday on the Gigabyte site.


----------



## sixor

hey guys what is this in bios?

performance enhance

Performance Enhance&&
Allows the system to operate at three different performance levels.
Normal Lets the system operate at its basic performance level.
Turbo Lets the system operate at its good performance level. (Default)
Extreme Lets the system operate at its best performance level.


----------



## DavidUD5H

Those are the settings in he Bios that allows the user to adjust the settings for performance as easy manual selection id rather choose extreme for The RAM and CPU/FSB, nothing to worry about actuali these boards and drivers are a concern.


----------



## jcooper138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> This. Is. Awesome.
> In that case I just ordered 16GB of 2133MHz ram!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the way to a friend in America, then stopping at my place in Aus!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do we have any proof though?


Give me a bit to have Prime run for awhile and I'll post a screen.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> @ Sin ..what program .sorry for mu noobnes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....little tired today (every time i don't know something i tell ppl that i'm tired ) ,also had to get Intel(R) 82579V based Network Controller(OEM)
> pretty nifty tool here
> http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/detect
> It works ! ..LAN Optimizer is for Atheros (bottom port )


Ah ha. I have the Atheros driver installed but I believe when I tried to install the LAN Optimizer I had my LAN plugged into the Intel LAN port.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidUD5H*
> 
> have you had the power surge hub problem?


I did a while back. The newer Intel USB 3.0 drivers seemed to fix the problem. I had installed the 1.0.4.225 drivers several weeks ago and no problems since. Gigabyte now has them on their site.


----------



## spluff

The new Intel Drivers - if you have older ones installed

Do you need to uninstall the old drivers first or just install new ones?


----------



## jcooper138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcooper138*
> 
> Give me a bit to have Prime run for awhile and I'll post a screen.


Grr, nvm. Prime died on me after a hour 32 minutes. Looks like I have some more work to do on voltages. I had a previous run that went ~3-4 hours before this.


----------



## DaClownie

DavidUD5H:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Guys, am I only one having this?
> 
> I have just my mouse and keyboard plug to USB 2.0 ports, and Bluetooth and Printer to USB 3.0..
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, I cant get my iphone 4 to charge....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Easy but bad fix for this... Things you should do, in order...
> 
> 1. While in Windows, try unplugging the devices one by one and switching them to another port and see if it clears the error (didn't work on mine)
> 2. Delete the USB Root Hubs in the device manager that are getting the error, restart, and let it reinstall drivers (didn't work on mine)
> 3. On your task bar, click the arrow pointing up near your clock and go to customize... Scroll down in that list until you find the error for the USB hub, set it to "Hide Icon and Notifications"... BAM! No more error.
> 
> Mine did this too for some reason, and I just set it to never show the error and I haven't had a single issue with a port working yet.
> 
> Hope that helps!
Click to expand...

That's how I "fixed" it.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Ah ha. I have the Atheros driver installed but I believe when I tried to install the LAN Optimizer I had my LAN plugged into the Intel LAN port.


I will play with it some more today ..already add in BF3 last night game play was smooth ,hopefully today i will be able to tell the difference in Hit Detection Box,there is few settings that will take some time to figure tho,as far as i can tell the browser feels more responsive


----------



## jcooper138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcooper138*
> 
> Grr, nvm. Prime died on me after a hour 32 minutes. Looks like I have some more work to do on voltages. I had a previous run that went ~3-4 hours before this.


So I'm not sure what is actually unstable at this point. Arguably I should go back to square one and work out max CPU OC and the work out max Memory OC and then work on the combination. However, insight on the symptoms would be valuable.

Currently Prime95 using custom settings:

Threads 4
Min FFT - 8
Max FFT - 4096
Memory - 12800

will throw hardware errors on 2 or 3 threads after 1 hour and 45 minutes (+- 5 minutes across 3 runs now) but the others will survive and keep chugging. Error is in rounding:

"FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4991979599, expected less than 0.4"


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcooper138*
> 
> So I'm not sure what is actually unstable at this point. Arguably I should go back to square one and work out max CPU OC and the work out max Memory OC and then work on the combination. However, insight on the symptoms would be valuable.
> Currently Prime95 using custom settings:
> Threads 4
> Min FFT - 8
> Max FFT - 4096
> Memory - 12800
> will throw hardware errors on 2 or 3 threads after 1 hour and 45 minutes (+- 5 minutes across 3 runs now) but the others will survive and keep chugging. Error is in rounding:
> "FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4991979599, expected less than 0.4"


I don't think there is much insight into prime errors to be had. its just saying something is not stable... I would go back to square one, work out CPU first, then RAM, seeing as CPU speed is much more important to performance imo. you can try memtest or something just to check stability of RAM if your pretty sure your CPU is stable, or back off you RAM OC and rerun prime, if its stable, gata be your RAM OC was bad (or just not "compatible" with the settings you had)

Im running a much older system (X58) as my main rig, but honestly I run my 1600 RAM at 1456 just because RAM speed doens't even matter to me. I tightened my timings a tad and just run it under-clocked. (because of multiplier issues I only have 1456 and something in the 1700 range to run em at)


----------



## Carnedude

Hi guys, making my 1st post on the forums here. I am banging my head against the wall here and wondered what I am doing wrong. I am trying to get the intel rapid start thing to work. I have followed everything to the letter in the manual about setting it up but once i get to the part about enabling it in the bios it won't let me select it. That setting is "grayed out" Any idea whats wrong?


----------



## bottjeremy

What proc are you running? It's not greyed out in the bios for my board and we have the same one. What bios version are you running?


----------



## Carnedude

I added my CPU. I am on F7 bios.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcooper138*
> 
> So I'm not sure what is actually unstable at this point. Arguably I should go back to square one and work out max CPU OC and the work out max Memory OC and then work on the combination. However, insight on the symptoms would be valuable.
> Currently Prime95 using custom settings:
> Threads 4
> Min FFT - 8
> Max FFT - 4096
> Memory - 12800
> will throw hardware errors on 2 or 3 threads after 1 hour and 45 minutes (+- 5 minutes across 3 runs now) but the others will survive and keep chugging. Error is in rounding:
> "FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4991979599, expected less than 0.4"


Which bios are you on? I'm having a similar problem. I oc'ed fine for weeks now and after installing F8 I've been having the same problem on Prime, 1 worker erroring out. I went back to F7 and I'm getting the same problem. Really frustrating. I feel like if I never upgraded my bios everything would have been fine minus my usb3 issues.

What I don't get is why going back to bios F7 doesn't fix my oc issues??? I'm really banging my head on this one. I'm still experimenting with a stable oc in bios F8.

Sinn any thoughts? Thanks.


----------



## jcooper138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> Which bios are you on? I'm having a similar problem. I oc'ed fine for weeks now and after installing F8 I've been having the same problem on Prime, 1 worker erroring out. I went back to F7 and I'm getting the same problem. Really frustrating. I feel like if I never upgraded my bios everything would have been fine minus my usb3 issues.
> What I don't get is why going back to bios F7 doesn't fix my oc issues??? I'm really banging my head on this one. I'm still experimenting with a stable oc in bios F8.
> Sinn any thoughts? Thanks.


F8 here as well. Currently testing 4.5Ghz at 1.21v (which gives me 1.20v stable according to CPU-Z) with Memory at 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24-2T to see if I get the same results.


----------



## Sin0822

listen try with F8 to increase the voltage a tiny bit, F8 might have changed up the LLC.

Can someone rehost F8? It doesnt' seem to be on TT forums.


----------



## eaglepowers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidUD5H*
> 
> Hello any1 geting Power Surge USB HUB errors?
> help please?


Clearing the cmos helped me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> listen try with F8 to increase the voltage a tiny bit, F8 might have changed up the LLC.
> Can someone rehost F8? It doesnt' seem to be on TT forums.


pm me and I'll email you it. I lowered my oc from 4.5ghz to 4.2 and it's stable again. I tried different LLC but I'll try increasing voltage. Just curious as to why going back to F7 didn't fix things for me?
Ran 3 hours of Prime at 4.2ghz in bios F8 and temps only hit 71c. That's 6c less than I was getting at 4.5ghz on bios F7. All other settings were the same.


----------



## Nastrodamous

Is there a reason to pick up the G1 Sniper 3 over the UD5? The more i look at them the only difference seems to be sata ports and audio, but I have a dedicated sound card already. Am i missing something?


----------



## drotaru

killer lan chipset







, will drive your latency to the ground !!!1


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> listen try with F8 to increase the voltage a tiny bit, F8 might have changed up the LLC.
> 
> Can someone rehost F8? It doesnt' seem to be on TT forums.


Here


----------



## stasio

F8 it's still on TT forum,but in Previous BetaBIOS (as noted there), due to non compability again with Corsair & Logitech.


----------



## DavidUD5H

Any1 know the good voltage settings for i7 3770k @ 4.5GHZ and Ram 2000MHZ XMP
Cpu is @ 1.250vOLTS
ram @ 1.65vOLTS
ANY OTHER VOLTAGES THAT SHOULD BE SET OFF AUTO ON THE UD5H?
I need legit voltages and cooling aint a problem for me.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglepowers*
> 
> Clearing the cmos helped me.
> pm me and I'll email you it. I lowered my oc from 4.5ghz to 4.2 and it's stable again. I tried different LLC but I'll try increasing voltage. Just curious as to why going back to F7 didn't fix things for me?
> Ran 3 hours of Prime at 4.2ghz in bios F8 and temps only hit 71c. That's 6c less than I was getting at 4.5ghz on bios F7. All other settings were the same.


Thanks i got the BIOS for Stasios link here i dug up. Perhaps your CPu degraded or a memory setting was altered.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastrodamous*
> 
> Is there a reason to pick up the G1 Sniper 3 over the UD5? The more i look at them the only difference seems to be sata ports and audio, but I have a dedicated sound card already. Am i missing something?


The G1.Sniper 3 offer 4-way SLI and CF capabilities, Core Recon3Di Audio and the special audio caps and amps(UD5H has the amps), as well as Intel and Killer e2201 gaming NIC instead of atheros. Otherwise they are pretty similar, but you get some extra fan control on the Sniper 3.
The 4-way capability provided by a PLX chip, provides 32x PCI-E 3.0 lanes instead of only 16x the UD5H and other Z77 board have. That is what the extra $80 is really for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidUD5H*
> 
> Any1 know the good voltage settings for i7 3770k @ 4.5GHZ and Ram 2000MHZ XMP
> Cpu is @ 1.250vOLTS
> ram @ 1.65vOLTS
> ANY OTHER VOLTAGES THAT SHOULD BE SET OFF AUTO ON THE UD5H?
> I need legit voltages and cooling aint a problem for me.


That looks good man, don't need to push any voltages you don't need too








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> F8 it's still on TT forum,but in Previous BetaBIOS (as noted there), due to non compability again with Corsair & Logitech.


Gotcha thanks.

I just found out that my 2500K that was IDLE BSODing BSOD in every board that the BIOS guys tested it in a lot of boards even some of other manufacturers and in all it BSOD, leading them to conclude that the 2500K degraded. They tried another retail 2500K and it worked flawlessly. Listen there were some guys complaining about DPC latency issues, if you could please PM me a shot of DPC latency checker with spikes and the list of installed programs and devices i would appreciate that. Turn off GB programs before you check though.


----------



## tehownt

For the first time in a long period I've decided to switch my motherboard brand to get the GA-Z77X-UD5H because it seemd a better bargain than other competing products but I'm getting a bit disappointed lately, specifically concerning OC capability and stability as I'm running into multiple issues with this board.

First, here are the build specs :
GA-Z77X-UD5H
Core i7-3770K
16GB DDR3 PC3-12800 Patriot PGD316G1600ELK
Noctua NH-D14
XFX 6850 HD-685X-ZNDC (using Accelero S1 Plus cooler).
Corsair HX520 PSU (3x18A) changed for Antec High Current 620W (1x48A)
Case is Antec P182.

So I get all of the pieces, build it up, upgrade the UEFI to F6 (back in the days) and then get started on O/Cing it with the original PSU I had.

Fairly quickly I get the CPU really stable at 4.5Ghz with the following settings : 100mhz Core speed, 45x mult., 1.190v Vcore, "Extreme" Vcore Current Protection and "Extreme" Vcore Loadline Calibration (i.e. no vdroop), disabled the C3/6 state and forced the "Turbo" mode to 45.
This setup allows me to run prime95 stable for hours, CPU reaching temps of max 80-82°Celsius (one core), while other cores are between 70° and 78° (the 10° difference between cores really surprises me).

All seemed good and well but then I wanted to see how the temperature of the GPU would affect the CPU's in order to gauge the case's cooling efficiency. That's when things turned ugly.

As soon as I started Furmark I got a BSOD.

Then the UEFI wouldn't POST normally, it would try to POST twice, stopping on error code 15 (Northbridge init.) and then reboot get back to the config screen telling me either that it had a boot failure or that I could revert to "optimized defaults".

Immediately I tried to find out whether it was a video card problem so I ran Furmark alone again and to my big surprise it didn't crash for about an hour (temperatures are fairly reasonnable, solely reaching more than 70°).

I figured that maybe the video card was pumping too much juice on the rail, so I tried switching rails, switched to another video card (8600GT), yet the same thing happenned all over. It would crash and then boot loop.

Between all the tests, I noticed that whenever I shut down the computer completely and cut the power for a couple of minutes, I was able to POST with the OC settings w/o problems or boot loops (as long as it hadn't already tried
to POST and failed, otherwise it sortof continue failing until I saw the UEFI "boot problem" screen).

I thus upgraded the UEFI to F7, put back the 6850 and did the test again but to no avail, it would still fail. I tried raising the vcore to 1.2-1.25, nothing would make any sort of difference, it would crash and then boot loop.

I also tried changing the core speed to 100.1 or 101, although it would help some of the POSTs, I still could not run both burn-in at the same time.

The next option was to look at the PSU, so I got a new one, single rail (just to make sure that wasn't an issue), and almost immediately started the CPU+GPU bench at 1.190v vcore.

The surprising thing is that it worked for about 20min, but then the same issue happenned (actually I had no BSOD but prime95 just crashed) and when I rebooted this time I got an even worse boot loop, it would do it forever.

I upgraded the UEFI to F8D just for the sake of it, then unplugged everything, waited a bit then got it to POST and I decided I would be changing some other UEFI settings.
Since it looked like a voltage problem, I lowered the vcore protection and vcore calibration to "high" instead of "extreme" and went back to try and find the stable vcore voltage for my 4.5ghz OC.

After being able to run prime95 stable for hours using a 1.24 vcore (vdrooping to 1.20 under load), I decided to run Furmark in parallel and successfully got it to run for about 45mins before prime95 crashed.

So now, I guess my only options left are to lower the vcore voltage tightening and raise the actual vcore but to me it seems a bit stupid for the board to provide me with super-tight voltage reg that aren't able to sustand high loads...

Does it seem like some voltage regulators might be defective ?
Does anyone have other suggestions ?

Thanks for the help !


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> hey guys what is this in bios?
> performance enhance
> Performance Enhance&&
> Allows the system to operate at three different performance levels.
> Normal Lets the system operate at its basic performance level.
> Turbo Lets the system operate at its good performance level. (Default)
> Extreme Lets the system operate at its best performance level.


this is one of those things that we'll never know.

its like finding how many licks it takes to get to the center of a tootsie roll pop. (i showed my age right there, right? lol)


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> this is one of those things that we'll never know.
> its like finding how many licks it takes to get to the center of a tootsie roll pop. (i showed my age right there, right? lol)


lol, well another mistery to solve someday

i have that value on max


----------



## Carnedude

Ok well for people that may have problems with Intel Rapid Start like I did. Here is a little bit of info about how I went about getting it to work. My 1st problem was that apparently either the Bios or Windows does not see the SSD correctly when it is plugged into one of the GSata port controlled by the Marvell chipset. It has to be plugged into an Intel controlled sata port, whether it be Sata 2 or 3. Secondly you need when you make your partition on the SSD for hibernation make sure that it is a RAW partition. It doesn't say either of those things in the manual. Maybe that's common knowledge about this technology but It was a lot of trial and error for me but now that it's working my PC boots from post to windows in about 10 sec.


----------



## grizindabox

Board is officially in the hands of Gigabyte. Hopefully I get it back soon, would really like to get my system up and running.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carnedude*
> 
> Ok well for people that may have problems with Intel Rapid Start like I did. Here is a little bit of info about how I went about getting it to work. My 1st problem was that apparently either the Bios or Windows does not see the SSD correctly when it is plugged into one of the GSata port controlled by the Marvell chipset. It has to be plugged into an Intel controlled sata port, whether it be Sata 2 or 3. Secondly you need when you make your partition on the SSD for hibernation make sure that it is a RAW partition. It doesn't say either of those things in the manual. Maybe that's common knowledge about this technology but It was a lot of trial and error for me but now that it's working my PC boots from post to windows in about 10 sec.


What were your boot times prior to setting up Intel Rapid Start? Mine boots from cold to Windows in around 14 seconds without it enabled right now, using an M4. The windows logo barely starts to spin the blobs before it's at the desktop and done.


----------



## Carnedude

I was booting off my HDD raid 0 previously and it was about 45 sec. from hitting the power.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carnedude*
> 
> I was booting off my HDD raid 0 previously and it was about 45 sec. from hitting the power.


That means your boot difference in time is really due to the speed at which SSDs can seek vs. the speed that RAID 0 can seek.

If I remember correctly, RAID 0 mechanical drives find data slower, but read sequentially MUCH faster. (not compared to SSDs, but compared to their single drive counter parts)


----------



## jcooper138

Posted this in the Ivy Bridge stable thread as well. CPU OC is solid. Now on to memory.


----------



## Jabberslops

I just recently upgraded to an I7 2600k and the z77x-ud5h from an oc'ed q6600. I'm using BIOS F8d. Everything is stable on one of my two Windows 7 64bit Boot drives.

Full specs:
Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H
I7 2600k (currently only 40x multiplier while testing)
Cooler Master Hyper 212+
MSI Cyclone GTX 460 1GB
G.Skill RipjawsX 16GB DDR3 1600 (two kits 2x4GB)
Corsair TX 750Watt
Seagate ST3250410AS
Western Digital WD500AAKX
Western Digital WD640AAKS
(Would have got Caviar Black, but money was tight when I bought them







)

Currently I use two hard drives as Windows 7 64bit boot drives; a Seagate ST3250410AS 250GB SATA 3Gb and a Western Digital WD500AAKX 500GB SATA 6Gb that I was planning to use as an upgrade to my "everyday" Seagate drive. So, until I started using the F8d BIOS, I've had tons of issues with stability and all the problems everyone else has had with the 2600k. There is something I still haven't been able to fix... it's the most baffling problem I have ever had or seen. Using Real Temp 3.70 I have observed my WD500AAKX not allowing the CPU multiplier to go higher than stock 34x, as well as being unable to come out of sleep mode without a BSOD. My Seagate drive has none of these issues with F8d BIOS and both hard drives still work flawlessly on my previous motherboard.

Having tested both hard drives with some games, I clearly saw that with the WD500AAKX I was not getting the CPU overclock I had set in the BIOS. The only settings that were working are voltage and CPU base clock. I have done 2 Clean installs of Windows 7. I've tried everything everyone has written in guides for "proper" overclocking of an i7 2600k and just using auto or normal settings in the BIOS. I put the drive on all the different SATA ports on my board and used a jumper to restrict it to SATA 3Gb; nothing has worked so far and I have no idea what I can do to fix the problem.

Does anyone have any clue why this would be happening?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> I just recently upgraded to an I7 2600k and the z77x-ud5h from an oc'ed q6600. I'm using BIOS F8d. Everything is stable on one of my two Windows 7 64bit Boot drives.
> Full specs:
> Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H
> I7 2600k (currently only 40x multiplier while testing)
> Cooler Master Hyper 212+
> MSI Cyclone GTX 460 1GB
> G.Skill RipjawsX 16GB DDR3 1600 (two kits 2x4GB)
> Corsair TX 750Watt
> Seagate ST3250410AS
> Western Digital WD500AAKX
> Western Digital WD640AAKS
> (Would have got Caviar Black, but money was tight when I bought them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Currently I use two hard drives as Windows 7 64bit boot drives; a Seagate ST3250410AS 250GB SATA 3Gb and a Western Digital WD500AAKX 500GB SATA 6Gb that I was planning to use as an upgrade to my "everyday" Seagate drive. So, until I started using the F8d BIOS, I've had tons of issues with stability and all the problems everyone else has had with the 2600k. There is something I still haven't been able to fix... it's the most baffling problem I have ever had or seen. Using Real Temp 3.70 I have observed my WD500AAKX not allowing the CPU multiplier to go higher than stock 34x, as well as being unable to come out of sleep mode without a BSOD. My Seagate drive has none of these issues with F8d BIOS and both hard drives still work flawlessly on my previous motherboard.
> Having tested both hard drives with some games, I clearly saw that with the WD500AAKX I was not getting the CPU overclock I had set in the BIOS. The only settings that were working are voltage and CPU base clock. I have done 2 Clean installs of Windows 7. I've tried everything everyone has written in guides for "proper" overclocking of an i7 2600k and just using auto or normal settings in the BIOS. I put the drive on all the different SATA ports on my board and used a jumper to restrict it to SATA 3Gb; nothing has worked so far and I have no idea what I can do to fix the problem.
> Does anyone have any clue why this would be happening?


Yeah, OK. Is this for real?


----------



## Jabberslops

It's not a joke, it's really happening and extremely irritating because it essentially means I can't switch to the 500GB for everyday use as my main OS drive and have my overclock settings work.


----------



## drotaru

have you tried placing the drive in the MARVEL slots ? ( kind of an obvious question but still i did not read you mentioning exactly what ports you tried )
or switch the bios ..
Maybe as a last resort try instaling windows only on the 500gb drive and see if the issue still occurs ..


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> It's not a joke, it's really happening and extremely irritating because it essentially means I can't switch to the 500GB for everyday use as my main OS drive and have my overclock settings work.


OK. I believe you then. I can't see for the life of me what your hard drive has to do with your OC.


----------



## drotaru

I noticed that when i switch my memory to XMP it says Profile VTT 1.35v i have it set at 1.070 to get the ram stable. What exacty is that value then ? isnt it to high to set ?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> I noticed that when i switch my memory to XMP it says Profile VTT 1.35v i have it set at 1.070 to get the ram stable. What exacty is that value then ? isnt it to high to set ?


VTT 1.35v-i think it means MAX VTT for the particular RAM
for 8Gb VCCIO (VTT) shouldn't be more then 1.15v ,i'm running 8Gb 2400 VTT @1.12 (1T)
for 16+ Gb VTT 1.15~1.2v ,don't go north of 1.2v (24/7) or your CPU/IMC may want to go to heaven


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> I just recently upgraded to an I7 2600k and the z77x-ud5h from an oc'ed q6600. I'm using BIOS F8d. Everything is stable on one of my two Windows 7 64bit Boot drives.
> Full specs:
> Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H
> I7 2600k (currently only 40x multiplier while testing)
> Cooler Master Hyper 212+
> MSI Cyclone GTX 460 1GB
> G.Skill RipjawsX 16GB DDR3 1600 (two kits 2x4GB)
> Corsair TX 750Watt
> Seagate ST3250410AS
> Western Digital WD500AAKX
> Western Digital WD640AAKS
> (Would have got Caviar Black, but money was tight when I bought them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Currently I use two hard drives as Windows 7 64bit boot drives; a Seagate ST3250410AS 250GB SATA 3Gb and a Western Digital WD500AAKX 500GB SATA 6Gb that I was planning to use as an upgrade to my "everyday" Seagate drive. So, until I started using the F8d BIOS, I've had tons of issues with stability and all the problems everyone else has had with the 2600k. There is something I still haven't been able to fix... it's the most baffling problem I have ever had or seen. Using Real Temp 3.70 I have observed my WD500AAKX not allowing the CPU multiplier to go higher than stock 34x, as well as being unable to come out of sleep mode without a BSOD. My Seagate drive has none of these issues with F8d BIOS and both hard drives still work flawlessly on my previous motherboard.
> Having tested both hard drives with some games, I clearly saw that with the WD500AAKX I was not getting the CPU overclock I had set in the BIOS. The only settings that were working are voltage and CPU base clock. I have done 2 Clean installs of Windows 7. I've tried everything everyone has written in guides for "proper" overclocking of an i7 2600k and just using auto or normal settings in the BIOS. I put the drive on all the different SATA ports on my board and used a jumper to restrict it to SATA 3Gb; nothing has worked so far and I have no idea what I can do to fix the problem.
> Does anyone have any clue why this would be happening?


Yea, I totally believe him. On a computer I built my brother maybe 2 years ago (i5 750 I think it was... 1156 anyways), I swear I had the same problem with the Asus Sabertooth board I was using. OMG it pissed me off to no end. Not exactly the same issues, but it was the same idea, something about it just wasn't happy with the particular harddrive.

But quick question for you about this, you said you have a 2600k and the latest BIOS, have you tested to see if sleep works properly at over 40x multiplier (on the harddrive that doesn't have problems obviously... lol)?


----------



## Jabberslops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> have you tried placing the drive in the MARVEL slots ? ( kind of an obvious question but still i did not read you mentioning exactly what ports you tried )
> or switch the bios ..
> Maybe as a last resort try instaling windows only on the 500gb drive and see if the issue still occurs ..


I tried every SATA port on the board. None of them fixed the overclocking problem. I also I tried both GUID Parition Table and Master Boot Record when installing Windows 7 (I originally used MBR on the drive). When I install Windows, I make sure all my other hard drives are unplugged so they don't cause a problem.

I get the same results with any program that shows CPU multiplier. CPUZ, Real Temp and HWMonitor all show the same problem of the CPU multiplier stuck at 34x when the system is under load even though the multiplier is set to 40x.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> I tried every SATA port on the board. None of them fixed the overclocking problem. I also I tried both GUID Parition Table and Master Boot Record when installing Windows 7 (I originally used MBR on the drive). When I install Windows, I make sure all my other hard drives are unplugged so they don't cause a problem.
> I get the same results with any program that shows CPU multiplier. CPUZ, Real Temp and HWMonitor all show the same problem of the CPU multiplier stuck at 34x when the system is under load even though the multiplier is set to 40x.


Something I never tried, but try updating harddrive firmware? I mean, that wouldn't make any sense, but seeing as the problem doesn't make any sense, hell, worth a shot...


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Also, I know you said you tested it in game and saw performance differences, but just to make sure it is the CPU and not just programs reporting wrong (who knows why this would happen though...) but test with a CPU benchmark, like superpi? This will clearly tell you the CPU is overclocked or not, results will be different for sure. I only say this because to me, it would make about as much sense for the harddrive causing CPUz to report the wrong values as it would for the harddrive to cause the BIOS to run incorrect values.


----------



## drotaru

maybe its some sort of bios setting your using that interferes with the drive , show us your settings


----------



## mvh11

So, I've never purchased a Gigabyte motherboard before, but I'm looking to switch to Intel when I overhaul my PC, and I've heard some excellent things about Gigabyte. I'm considering purchasing the UD5H(unless the sniper substantially drops in price).

Would anybody care to tell me what it is that makes Gigabyte stand out from the crowd, particularly with their z77 motherboards? I've always purchased ASUS motherboards, so I'd love to hear more about what appears to be the other big manufacturer of mobos.


----------



## Cobalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mvh11*
> 
> So, I've never purchased a Gigabyte motherboard before, but I'm looking to switch to Intel when I overhaul my PC, and I've heard some excellent things about Gigabyte. I'm considering purchasing the UD5H(unless the sniper substantially drops in price).
> Would anybody care to tell me what it is that makes Gigabyte stand out from the crowd, particularly with their z77 motherboards? I've always purchased ASUS motherboards, so I'd love to hear more about what appears to be the other big manufacturer of mobos.


Kind of in the same boat as you. Will be building my first pc soon and I'm leaning towards the UD5H over the Asus V pro but I'm not _quite_ there yet, just need a bit of a nudge to make up my mind.


----------



## Jabberslops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Also, I know you said you tested it in game and saw performance differences, but just to make sure it is the CPU and not just programs reporting wrong (who knows why this would happen though...) but test with a CPU benchmark, like superpi? This will clearly tell you the CPU is overclocked or not, results will be different for sure. I only say this because to me, it would make about as much sense for the harddrive causing CPUz to report the wrong values as it would for the harddrive to cause the BIOS to run incorrect values.


I just used Super Pi and the results have me questioning myself and what I possibly could have done wrong with my previous benchmarking if I did do something wrong. The results from Super Pi show that the CPU is overclocked on my Western Digital drive and is actually slightly faster than my Seagate. I am going to have to do more testing when I have time; I must have screwed up somewhere.

This makes me feel like such a fool, but CPUZ and Real Temp still show 34x when the CPU multiplier is set to 40x and sleep mode still doesn't work properly.


----------



## jcooper138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> This. Is. Awesome.
> In that case I just ordered 16GB of 2133MHz ram!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the way to a friend in America, then stopping at my place in Aus!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do we have any proof though?


Proof:



F8 Bios
4.6Ghz @ 1.275v, 1866 9-9-9-24-2T @ 1.65v, VTT 1.05 IMC 1.025 PLL 1.8

Prime Custom Blend using Memory to Use: 12800 otherwise stock settings.

3DMark11
3DMark Vantage

The difference between this and 4.5Ghz 1600 9-9-9-24-2T on 3DMark11 was noise (5 points). Vantage, however, was just under 2000 points. Video overclock (GTX 680 1.025/+132%/+50/+75) feels smoother as well. Not as much of a stumble when textures are being slammed in and out or so it looks anyway. Heaven score moved up a little bit so that might be reflecting added smoothness.

(No idea why 3DMark is listing the ram at 1600...boggle)


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> I just used Super Pi and the results have me questioning myself and what I possibly could have done wrong with my previous benchmarking if I did do something wrong. The results from Super Pi show that the CPU is overclocked on my Western Digital drive and is actually slightly faster than my Seagate. I am going to have to do more testing when I have time; I must have screwed up somewhere.
> This makes me feel like such a fool, but CPUZ and Real Temp still show 34x when the CPU multiplier is set to 40x and sleep mode still doesn't work properly.


Ok, actually, that might not be "bad". I forgot you are only overclocking to 4 GHz, and superpi only uses 1 thread, the stock turbo boost would actually put the results potentially not to far off (i forgot the stock turbo boost of a single core, but it is prob close to 3.8-3.9?). Maybe try overclocking to something like 4.3 (something that is certainly higher than stock) as this would reveal different numbers than stock for sure.

Also, try super pi mod 1.5 if you havn't already, it gives u more accurate times. Do 3-4 runs of say 1M on ALL DEFAULT SETTINGS, get a feel for what your stock results look like, then try a healthier 4.3+ overlock on both harddrives and see what numbers result. While your at it might as well run all default runs on both harddrives as well.

Unfortunately my 2600K build is actually my fathers computer, so I can't tell you what my stock and overclocked results are... Ill be home from college on monday and if need be I can test his PC at stock and at 4.5ghz and tell you what my results are, just for something to compare to.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

To anyone with a 2600K on F6.... Got a pretty big problem. My dads mobo decided to reset its BIOS on him. Im not there, didn't see what happened, all I know is he called me today with "missing operating" system on his screen. Ok, his RAID broke (hoping inside a SSD didn't decide to call it quits). Well, i get him into the BIOS, and I c all of the settings are DEFAULT. 100% default, although it didn't load into the 3D BIOS, it loaded into the advanced BIOS. Had him set his XMP RAM settings, got him into RAID mode from AHCI, and the easy stuff like that just to get his PC working again, but then I thought, O yea, I saved a backup of the BIOS with the option there in the last tab. Well, that setting was gone as well. So as far as I can see, the BIOS 100% reset itself. He has never been in the BIOS so he didn't accidentally do it. I know there have been a lot of new BIOS since then, but I don't want him updating the BIOS without me, but I will be home on monday to help him.

First, has anyone had this problem? Its somewhat concerning... Second, what is the best BIOS to update to for the 2600k? At this point, I just want the most stable, overclocking isn't as important as never having this happen again...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> I just used Super Pi and the results have me questioning myself and what I possibly could have done wrong with my previous benchmarking if I did do something wrong. The results from Super Pi show that the CPU is overclocked on my Western Digital drive and is actually slightly faster than my Seagate. I am going to have to do more testing when I have time; I must have screwed up somewhere.
> This makes me feel like such a fool, but CPUZ and Real Temp still show 34x when the CPU multiplier is set to 40x and sleep mode still doesn't work properly.


Just for grins, why don't you load HWINFO, either 32 or 64 bit for whichever OS you have. run the sensor screen and it will show speeds for each thread, vcore, temps, all that stuff in one package and I've found it to be as accurate as anything else out there right now. You can use either the latest full install program or the latest beta, they both work well.
I still don't get the hard drive thing, I've never seen anything like that and can't come up with any plausible explanation.


----------



## Mandroid

Somewhere Sin0822 posted a 4.5GHz overclock profile for the Z77X-UD5H. I have been looking through many pages but cannot find it. Does anyone have a link to the post?


----------



## Cobalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobalt*
> 
> Kind of in the same boat as you. Will be building my first pc soon and I'm leaning towards the UD5H over the Asus V pro but I'm not _quite_ there yet, just need a bit of a nudge to make up my mind.


Anyone?


----------



## samwiches

I've had the ASUS Z77 Pro. As far as performance, it did no better than my UD3H here, and it used more power.

It also cost about $80 more..


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandroid*
> 
> Somewhere Sin0822 posted a 4.5GHz overclock profile for the Z77X-UD5H. I have been looking through many pages but cannot find it. Does anyone have a link to the post?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/800#post_17169608


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobalt*
> 
> Anyone?


Obviously we made our choice already.








I have P67 & Z68 Gigabyte boards running right now, as well as the Z77. The earlier boards are fine but I wanted a little more BIOS control, and for Z77 was thinking about jumping ship until I saw Sin0822's review of the UD5H. I have 2 of the boards and I'm happy with them. No problems other than the normal growing pains of early BIOS on new platforms. My boards are rock solid.
If there's a drawback it might be the fan control, there's no specialized software included for fine tuning but I use a fan controller anyway.


----------



## Jabberslops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Just for grins, why don't you load HWINFO, either 32 or 64 bit for whichever OS you have. run the sensor screen and it will show speeds for each thread, vcore, temps, all that stuff in one package and I've found it to be as accurate as anything else out there right now. You can use either the latest full install program or the latest beta, they both work well.
> I still don't get the hard drive thing, I've never seen anything like that and can't come up with any plausible explanation.


Well! I have discovered something very interesting. I started HWInfo 64Bit first after booting into Windows and it showed 4Ghz, but then when I start up Real Temp 3.7 or CPUZ 1.60.1 64Bit, the CPU multiplier dropped to 34x and if I use Super Pi it shows the same results I get when I have the CPU set to stock speed. Rebooting fixes that issue. Throughout my testing I've been using Real Temp to monitor CPU Temps and GPU plus CPU overclock while testing. I've never had a problem before with it and it works fine on my Seagate drive. This all has me wondering if maybe it's the reason sleep mode doesn't work properly. I'll have to test some other temperature monitoring programs to find one that doesn't mess with the CPU multiplier


----------



## Krysaenaar

Had a screech of death lockup just there.

Happens about once every 8 hours of gaming roughly.

Changed the BCLK to 101 instead of 100.1 to see if that helps.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> Well! I have discovered something very interesting. I started HWInfo 64Bit first after booting into Windows and it showed 4Ghz, but then when I start up Real Temp 3.7 or CPUZ 1.60.1 64Bit, the CPU multiplier dropped to 34x and if I use Super Pi it shows the same results I get when I have the CPU set to stock speed. Rebooting fixes that issue. Throughout my testing I've been using Real Temp to monitor CPU Temps and GPU plus CPU overclock while testing. I've never had a problem before with it and it works fine on my Seagate drive. This all has me wondering if maybe it's the reason sleep mode doesn't work properly. I'll have to test some other temperature monitoring programs to find one that doesn't mess with the CPU multiplier


You can monitor pretty much everything with HWINFO.
So what you're seeing isn't just the cpu idling down in Windows, it's actually not using the multi when stress testing?


----------



## jcooper138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> Well! I have discovered something very interesting. I started HWInfo 64Bit first after booting into Windows and it showed 4Ghz, but then when I start up Real Temp 3.7 or CPUZ 1.60.1 64Bit, the CPU multiplier dropped to 34x and if I use Super Pi it shows the same results I get when I have the CPU set to stock speed. Rebooting fixes that issue. Throughout my testing I've been using Real Temp to monitor CPU Temps and GPU plus CPU overclock while testing. I've never had a problem before with it and it works fine on my Seagate drive. This all has me wondering if maybe it's the reason sleep mode doesn't work properly. I'll have to test some other temperature monitoring programs to find one that doesn't mess with the CPU multiplier


I've seen that before (multi dropping as soon as you start Real Temp). Make sure you don't have "Disable Turbo" checked in the RealTemp settings. That option returns the multi to stock even when I have Turbo disabled in the Bios.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Had a screech of death lockup just there.
> Happens about once every 8 hours of gaming roughly.
> Changed the BCLK to 101 instead of 100.1 to see if that helps.


Man, that is the BEST description of the problem with UD5H. Just randomly, like once a day, you get that weird lockup where the mouse all of a sudden starts stuttering then you hear a screech and the system locks up. I was on F8a before and it was happening on there, just flashed to "F8" so I dunno if it still happens on this one or not.


----------



## arrow0309

*Gigabyte's 32-Phase Power Motherboard: Z77X-UP7*

http://vr-zone.com/articles/gigabyte-s-32-phase-power-motherboard-z77x-up7/16147.html


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcooper138*
> 
> I've seen that before (multi dropping as soon as you start Real Temp). Make sure you don't have "Disable Turbo" checked in the RealTemp settings. That option returns the multi to stock even when I have Turbo disabled in the Bios.


I've seen that option in RealTemp, never checked it out. But I keep thinking he has some software interfering, so that sounds like a good candidate.


----------



## r0ach

OK, after testing this latest "F8" UD5H BIOS, I have come to the conclusion it sucks.

I'm extremely sensitive to changes in system responsiveness and how the mouse feels. If I have any kind of dynamic CPU clocking features turned on that alter CPU speed and voltage on the fly, I can usually easily notice an increase in system latency and less mouse response. The newest F8 with all that stuff turned OFF feels less responsive than F7 with all that stuff turned on. F8 is a slug.

I'm using a 2500k on the UD5H, so it might be good for Ivy Bridge people, but I'm guessing it's not good for them either. I'm sticking to F7 for now.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> *Gigabyte's 32-Phase Power Motherboard: Z77X-UP7*
> http://vr-zone.com/articles/gigabyte-s-32-phase-power-motherboard-z77x-up7/16147.html


Another 1155 MB..." Lucid Virtu *Universal MVP GPU virtualization*"<= Lucid should get one thing right before moving to another







..wonder why so many Phases ...?
EDIT so instead of U*D*7 we will get U*P*7,whatever..the heatsink must to be enormous


----------



## jcooper138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I've seen that option in RealTemp, never checked it out. But I keep thinking he has some software interfering, so that sounds like a good candidate.


Yeah, I learned the hard way. I clicked it thinking "Ya, I want turbo disabled!" What I suspect is that whatever call RealTemp makes causes a bitwise OR on that CPU register which turns "Turbo OFF" to "Turbo ON". I could be wrong about that but it did cause the symptoms mentioned.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> *Gigabyte's 32-Phase Power Motherboard: Z77X-UP7*
> http://vr-zone.com/articles/gigabyte-s-32-phase-power-motherboard-z77x-up7/16147.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another 1155 MB..." Lucid Virtu *Universal MVP GPU virtualization*"<= Lucid should get one thing right before moving to another
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..wonder why so many Phases ...?
> EDIT so instead of U*D*7 we will get U*P*7,whatever..the heatsink must to be enormous
Click to expand...

UP7 seems like it's going to be for OC world records. Didn't gigabyte just capture the Ivy Bridge OC record with like 7032mhz? This seems like the board that would deliver a lot of clean power to a CPU socket to allow such overclocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> OK, after testing this latest "F8" UD5H BIOS, I have come to the conclusion it sucks.
> 
> I'm extremely sensitive to changes in system responsiveness and how the mouse feels. If I have any kind of dynamic CPU clocking features turned on that alter CPU speed and voltage on the fly, I can usually easily notice an increase in system latency and less mouse response. The newest F8 with all that stuff turned OFF feels less responsive than F7 with all that stuff turned on. F8 is a slug.
> 
> I'm using a 2500k on the UD5H, so it might be good for Ivy Bridge people, but I'm guessing it's not good for them either. I'm sticking to F7 for now.


I know I'm using Ivy, but I'm still on the F6 BIOS because it runs phenomenal for me. Not sure if it would serve you any benefit, but I haven't noticed the slightest hiccup in system performance.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Another 1155 MB..." Lucid Virtu *Universal MVP GPU virtualization*"<= Lucid should get one thing right before moving to another
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..wonder why so many Phases ...?
> EDIT so instead of U*D*7 we will get U*P*7,whatever..the heatsink must to be enormous
> 
> 
> 
> UP7 seems like it's going to be for OC world records. Didn't gigabyte just capture the Ivy Bridge OC record with like 7032mhz? This seems like the board that would deliver a lot of clean power to a CPU socket to allow such overclocks.
Click to expand...

It's supposed to be the new Ultra Durable 5 mainboard lineup for the Z77 and X79.
Another two Z77 models are already announced (Thunderbolt-equipped), the Z77X-UP4 TH and the Z77X-UP5 TH, respectively:









http://www.techpowerup.com/167115/GIGABYTE-s-Duo-of-Thunderbolt-Equipped-Motherboards-Pictured.html


----------



## Jabberslops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcooper138*
> 
> Yeah, I learned the hard way. I clicked it thinking "Ya, I want turbo disabled!" What I suspect is that whatever call RealTemp makes causes a bitwise OR on that CPU register which turns "Turbo OFF" to "Turbo ON". I could be wrong about that but it did cause the symptoms mentioned.


Actually, the only options I checked were the display of CPU #0 in the tray and GPU temperature. I've left everything else on default.

I forgot to mention it before that I had forgotten to put back one of my 2x4GB memory kits when I was running tests. When I put them back in to fill all 4 banks, the system works fine, but sleep mode stops working correctly on my Seagate drive. The sleep mode problem is currently the only issue my Western Digital has now that I know not to run any hardware monitoring programs other than HWInfo. I suppose I could stop using sleep mode, but I shouldn't have to. I was planning to use 8GB for a ram drive, but that will have to wait until Gigabyte can fix the compatibility issues; I can live with 8GB installed instead of 16GB. When I have time I may try my 2x2GB DDR3 1600 kit for a total of 12GB to see if the system has issues and I should also try running the modules at 1333MHz.


----------



## DaClownie

Also, question. What is this new Thunderbolt tech that they're talking about? I'm curious.

EDIT: Nevermind. I LMGTFY'd myself.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Also, question. What is this new Thunderbolt tech that they're talking about? I'm curious.
> EDIT: Nevermind. I LMGTFY'd myself.


Intel and Apple. What a pair.


----------



## trendy

Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the EAX and XFi software for my UD5H? I can't find my disk, and the only thing on Gigabyte's site are the realtek drivers.


----------



## robertjs3

This is off topic but I thought i would post here because Some of you here own a GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-D3H. How many Sata III (6gbps) ports are on this board? I've read it has 2 and I've read it has 4, so now I'm not sure which it is. Also, how many does the ud3h have? I've read the same discrepancies there as well, 2 and 4. Thanks for the help


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robertjs3*
> 
> This is off topic but I thought i would post here because Some of you here own a GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-D3H. How many Sata III (6gbps) ports are on this board? I've read it has 2 and I've read it has 4, so now I'm not sure which it is. Also, how many does the ud3h have? I've read the same discrepancies there as well, 2 and 4. Thanks for the help


It has 2 SATA3 (6gb/s) and 4 SATA2 (3gb/s). Source


----------



## sleepysui

Hi guys!

Just new here, i got myself a z77mxd3h board, paired with a 3570k and 8 gigs of 1600 corsair vengeance rams, i would just like to check if you could recommend any low cost hsf that i can use, and also can i use lucid virtu mvp with just the integrated graphics?

thx in advance


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the EAX and XFi software for my UD5H? I can't find my disk, and the only thing on Gigabyte's site are the realtek drivers.


Here you go


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Here you go


Thanks man! I literally just found the disk in my car. Looks like when I picked up my board from Micro Center and opened it to check it out in the parking lot, I dropped the disk between the seats lol.


----------



## r0ach

After more testing with F7 UD5H BIOS dated May 11-12th, it's definitely superior to all F8 releases for my 2500k.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> After more testing with F7 UD5H BIOS dated May 11-12th, it's definitely superior to all F8 releases for my 2500k.


^ Ditto

I have a 2500k and went back to f7 as well.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sleepysui*
> 
> Hi guys!
> Just new here, i got myself a z77mxd3h board, paired with a 3570k and 8 gigs of 1600 corsair vengeance rams, i would just like to check if you could recommend any low cost hsf that i can use, and also can i use lucid virtu mvp with just the integrated graphics?
> thx in advance


This is a nice cooler for 30 beans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134

I don't think you can use lucid virtu mvp with just the igpu. my understanding is that that software is meant to be used with a igpu and dgpu to help them work together.


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> After more testing with F7 UD5H BIOS dated May 11-12th, it's definitely superior to all F8 releases for my 2500k.


You guys wouldn't happen to know if F7 works better for Ivy Bridge?

I had a hell of a time getting my OC stable on the latest F8, but it's the only one I have tried so far.


----------



## coolhandluke41

I'm on F8d and it's all good ..you have dual bios- use it (keep F7 on one chip and try F8 on the other )


----------



## EvgeniX

I did not try F7 but on F8 its looks 1.55V @ 1866 Samsung 30nm 16GB looks too high? or not??


----------



## mandrix

F6/F7/F8d/F8 I can't tell the difference between them. :shrug:


----------



## Sin0822

lol

F7 changed stock BCLK back to 100.1 F8 added in another thing to fix up idle BSOD issue for others who weren't bclk affected.

you guys are saying F8 isn't as good as F7 for your sandy bridge, why?


----------



## eaglepowers

It made my OC not stable and it sounds like Roach didn't like the "responsiveness and how the mouse feels."


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> lol
> F7 changed stock BCLK back to 100.1 F8 added in another thing to fix up idle BSOD issue for others who weren't bclk affected.
> you guys are saying F8 isn't as good as F7 for your sandy bridge, why?


I've seen a few posts saying they couldn't get the same stable OC after switching BIOs, which is plausible. I'm too lazy to read change logs.... hahaha


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

I just updated to F8 with my 2600k. On my previous BIOS (F6) my dads computer reset its BIOS on its own... really weird. After that it didn't want to overclock at all. I would set a multiplier ratio, and no matter what I set it wouldn't go above 38. So I flashed F8, and same problem. It won't overclock anymore. So I put everything on default, and Turbo doesn't work. So I turned on C1E and C3 and all of those settings, left everything else on auto, and it auto clocks to 3.8 GHz durring idle and load. Really strang. Before the BIOS reset itself everything seemed to be fine. Did something "bad" happen? Hopefully someone can help because the amount of issues in this board are starting to make me regret buying it.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> I just updated to F8 with my 2600k. On my previous BIOS (F6) my dads computer reset its BIOS on its own... really weird. After that it didn't want to overclock at all. I would set a multiplier ratio, and no matter what I set it wouldn't go above 38. So I flashed F8, and same problem. It won't overclock anymore. So I put everything on default, and Turbo doesn't work. So I turned on C1E and C3 and all of those settings, left everything else on auto, and it auto clocks to 3.8 GHz durring idle and load. Really strang. Before the BIOS reset itself everything seemed to be fine. Did something "bad" happen? Hopefully someone can help because the amount of issues in this board are starting to make me regret buying it.


Just tried F7 as per other Sandy owners advice, and overclocking works fine. Im still really confused as to why this would be. So many strange issues with this board it blows my mind


----------



## Jabberslops

So, I finally had enough of my UD5H and finally went through with returning the board for a refund. I discovered that when the board was stable, I actually had the memory in single channel mode with the only configuration of modules that worked being the two closest slots to the CPU. I didn't buy the board to be a beta tester for things that should have been tested before release to make sure it works properly and especially with everything it is designed to be compatible with. It's obvious all the Z77 platform motherboards were rushed out to meet demand for Ivy Bridge, despite the fact that Ivy Bridge CPUs were not even available when Z77 was released.

The UD5H wasn't even my first choice, because of the placement of the PCI slot; A 2 slot video card placed in CFX or SLI would cover the PCI slot which I still needed. I would have bought the Asus P8Z77 V Pro, but it would have put me over my parts budget and I still wanted features that cheaper boards didn't offer. I was originally planning to buy an I5 3570K, but I managed to get my I7 2600K new for $255 on Ebay.

In the end, it's really my own fault for not listening to myself after saying I would wait and see how the new Z77 boards turn out. Now I really will be watching and waiting until something better comes along. My Q6600 has served me well for almost 5 years; I know I can wait a bit longer.


----------



## mandrix

I have 2 UD5H boards and no problems. I ran both 2600k & 3770k on one board and overclocked both x45 stable. The other board is running 3770k overclocked, x45 stable 24/7.


----------



## gtfoxy

Regarding mSATA & the EZ Smart Response:

Someone mentioned that the max size for the mSAT is 64Gb.
I would like to add that I read that when the mSATA slot is us ed SATAII port 5 is non-useable. To me that meant that the mSATA shares that channel. If that channel can then be used with a larger drive than 64Gb then the mSATA zhould b able to be larger than that also.

I would like to clarify:
On pg. 80 of my manual it states that the max cache size is 64Gb & anything beyond that is still available for storage. So one would be able to add say a 120Gb mSATA.

Does this mean programs can also be added & ran from the remaining SSD drive section?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> So, I finally had enough of my UD5H and finally went through with returning the board for a refund. I discovered that when the board was stable, I actually had the memory in single channel mode with the only configuration of modules that worked being the two closest slots to the CPU. I didn't buy the board to be a beta tester for things that should have been tested before release to make sure it works properly and especially with everything it is designed to be compatible with. It's obvious all the Z77 platform motherboards were rushed out to meet demand for Ivy Bridge, despite the fact that Ivy Bridge CPUs were not even available when Z77 was released.
> The UD5H wasn't even my first choice, because of the placement of the PCI slot; A 2 slot video card placed in CFX or SLI would cover the PCI slot which I still needed. I would have bought the Asus P8Z77 V Pro, but it would have put me over my parts budget and I still wanted features that cheaper boards didn't offer. I was originally planning to buy an I5 3570K, but I managed to get my I7 2600K new for $255 on Ebay.
> In the end, it's really my own fault for not listening to myself after saying I would wait and see how the new Z77 boards turn out. Now I really will be watching and waiting until something better comes along. My Q6600 has served me well for almost 5 years; I know I can wait a bit longer.


cool story bro....lol,good luck


----------



## Yor_

I'm close to returning it as well, because I can't use my Focusrite Saffire Pro 14 firewire audio interface with it. When it is connected, system freezes at ramdom; rock solid when it's not. I have been using the audio interface with other motherboards (Z68) and never had a problem.

What would you guys suggest as a better Z77 motherboard for replacement?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabberslops*
> 
> So, I finally had enough of my UD5H and finally went through with returning the board for a refund. I discovered that when the board was stable, I actually had the memory in single channel mode with the only configuration of modules that worked being the two closest slots to the CPU. I didn't buy the board to be a beta tester for things that should have been tested before release to make sure it works properly and especially with everything it is designed to be compatible with. It's obvious all the Z77 platform motherboards were rushed out to meet demand for Ivy Bridge, despite the fact that Ivy Bridge CPUs were not even available when Z77 was released.
> The UD5H wasn't even my first choice, because of the placement of the PCI slot; A 2 slot video card placed in CFX or SLI would cover the PCI slot which I still needed. I would have bought the Asus P8Z77 V Pro, but it would have put me over my parts budget and I still wanted features that cheaper boards didn't offer. I was originally planning to buy an I5 3570K, but I managed to get my I7 2600K new for $255 on Ebay.
> In the end, it's really my own fault for not listening to myself after saying I would wait and see how the new Z77 boards turn out. Now I really will be watching and waiting until something better comes along. My Q6600 has served me well for almost 5 years; I know I can wait a bit longer.


Good luck on your next purchase. I knew you were trying to resolve some issues you were having and sometimes it's just best to punt and start again. Only you know where that point is. But to be fair, there are many (including myself) you have not experienced the issues you were having and are happy with all the features the board has to offer. Again, best of luck and if you get a chance stop by and let us know what you have decided to get in its place and how things worked out.


----------



## fasty

There seems to be a *new USB3 Driver* recently released from Intel, Version 1.0.5.235.
Bearing in mind that many people have suffered USB3 related issues on the GB Z77 boards, I wonder if anyone has tried this driver yet?

I also saw (somewhere) a new *Intel INF driver* set 9.3.0.1020, apparently intended for Intel boards but people have managed to extract and manually load updated drivers via Device Manager.

(Just scratchin' around for ideas that might help people still experiencing bugs.... Apologies if these have been mentioned here already - this is getting to be a bit of a mega-thread and I might have missed it.)


----------



## MasterRy88

This may be obvious but is it normal for the BIOS to freeze, I know its a slightly unstable OC when this happens but its really annoying not being able to change any settings because it freezes, I have to clear the cmos all the time. Just making sure this is normal as I dont remember this happened on my P45 boards.


----------



## gtfoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterRy88*
> 
> This may be obvious but is it normal for the BIOS to freeze, I know its a slightly unstable OC when this happens but its really annoying not being able to change any settings because it freezes, I have to clear the cmos all the time. Just making sure this is normal as I dont remember this happened on my P45 boards.


Vcore too low?

Mine locked when I went the wrong way once. It would load into the bios & as soo...n as the vcore would drop & it would freeze... I sometimes like to do odd-ball tests so I rather enjoy the dual bios.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> lol
> F7 changed stock BCLK back to 100.1 F8 added in another thing to fix up idle BSOD issue for others who weren't bclk affected.
> you guys are saying F8 isn't as good as F7 for your sandy bridge, why?


I haven't gotten any idle, screech of death BSODs with the newest F7 dated May 11-12th on my 2500k and UD5H. I did get them once every few days with F8a though.

After I updated to the newest F8 that just came out below, I immediately noticed my mouse responsiveness was negatively affected: http://www.mediafire.com/?3w2p56gwb7y3qbm

I use a G9x plugged into the USB 2.0 port on the back of the case.

If there's anyone on earth that would notice such a thing, it's me. I even have a thread on how to configure your PC for the most optimal Windows 7 mouse response on this site:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1245034/i-finally-discovered-the-right-combination-of-settings-drivers-for-perfect-mouse-response-in-win-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> I did not try F7 but on F8 its looks 1.55V @ 1866 Samsung 30nm 16GB looks too high? or not??


Yes, that's way too damn high. You should be able to do 1866mhz at cas9 with stock volts. My 30nm Samsung passes all stability tests at:
1600mhz 7-8-7-24 1.45v
2133mhz 11-11-11-28 1.45v

Might be stable at lower volts, but that's the only ones I've tested thoroughly so far. I run mine at those 1600mhz timings btw.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Yes, that's way too damn high. You should be able to do 1866mhz at cas9 with stock volts. My 30nm Samsung passes all stability tests at:
> 1600mhz 7-8-7-24 1.45v
> 2133mhz 11-11-11-28 1.45v
> Might be stable at lower volts, but that's the only ones I've tested thoroughly so far. I run mine at those 1600mhz timings btw.


you have only 8gb....

also whats your vtt and IMC?


----------



## Hokies83

So how do you Turn the on Die gpu on in bios? i want to try out lucid mvp.


----------



## drotaru

Cant seem to boot the MB with a moded [email protected] bios board :S I remember seeing some other peeps with the same problem , was there a solution for it ?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> So how do you Turn the on Die gpu on in bios? i want to try out lucid mvp.


enable in bios, install intel hd4000 driver, install virtu, that is all

it is dumb, but waste your time if you want, i just tested that a lot

still mouse problems sometimes even with latest usb3 drivers, mouse just don`t power on on some boots, all the other devices do, and the mouse is ok, it is the stupid mobo

hey guys i have a question about usb3 drivers

there is intel usb3
via usb

do i need to install both? if so then. where are via usb ports? in the back i guess? and the intel ones are in the front via headers? , so if my fron ports are usb2 i don´t need intel usb3 drivers? right?

also do i need to install intel chipset inf for the chipset? using ssd should i isntall the sata ahci driver ?

my old amd mobo was easy in that way, less drivers, amd had a driver all in one for everything (usb, chipset, ahci, sata)


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> Cant seem to boot the MB with a moded [email protected] bios board :S I remember seeing some other peeps with the same problem , was there a solution for it ?


That doesn't sound like a mb issue but graphics card. If your modded gpu bios will not allow you to boot I would suggest reverting back to stock bios and then posting your issue in the appropriate forum section (modded bios or whatever is closest to that). Like here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/899639/the-6950-to-6970-unlock-thread


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> Cant seem to boot the MB with a moded [email protected] bios board :S I remember seeing some other peeps with the same problem , was there a solution for it ?


My 6950 with 6970 bios has not had any issues since day 1. Use the backup bios and see if it helps. Good luck.


----------



## drotaru

it works with the back-up bios , it also worked pefrectly when there where 2 cards in crossfire







, so ... evidently .. its the MB .. also same bios worked on X58

there is atleast one more person in this thread with the same issue and also another on the TT forums


----------



## stasio

New official BIOS is out.


----------



## PMantis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterRy88*
> 
> This may be obvious but is it normal for the BIOS to freeze, I know its a slightly unstable OC when this happens but its really annoying not being able to change any settings because it freezes, I have to clear the cmos all the time. Just making sure this is normal as I dont remember this happened on my P45 boards.


My BIOS was freezing when I set the multiplier too high with a low Vcore. The BIOS locked up too quickly for me to change the settings so I ended up resetting CMOS and then started the OC trial and error again. Sounds like you need more juice for your multiplier setting.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterRy88*
> 
> This may be obvious but is it normal for the BIOS to freeze, I know its a slightly unstable OC when this happens but its really annoying not being able to change any settings because it freezes, I have to clear the cmos all the time. Just making sure this is normal as I dont remember this happened on my P45 boards.


If I run the DVID offset at more than -.05 my bios freezes. If you are using DVID with a hefty offset, that is likely your problem.


----------



## sixor

thanks stacio

new bios for z77 ud3h, working fine so far f11

maybe i am crazy but i feel the 3d bios a lot faster, no lag like before

lets see if my mouse usb works fine on every boot


----------



## homestyle

I'm having trouble with windows 7 clean installs.

When I first got the board (f7 bios), I did a clean install of windows 7 just fine. It installed it on the MBR disk. I was able to make acronis true image backups.

But I flashed the bios to f9 and changed some settings. Now when I go to clean install the system, it will change the disk to GPT and install the OS. I need the os installed on an MBR disk to have acronis true image work. I'm not sure if it was some bios changes or the bios update that changed this configuration.

Anybody know?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> New official BIOS is out.


For which board? I don't see anything for UD5H.


----------



## stasio

Where you are looking?
UD5H - F8 dated 31.May


----------



## coolhandluke41

man i love the ability to to save Bioses and profiles to USB stick on UD5H ....it literally took me less than a minute to flash and load offset profile from one bios chip to another


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Started getting today this from USB 3.0.

Power Surge On Hub Port.

Is it Software or Hardware?


----------



## Sin0822

does the new official have CPU PLL OV?

Can you check for me? I am no where close to a test system.

EDIT: NVM i just saw the change notes, it wont be in this BIOS.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Started getting today this from USB 3.0.
> 
> Power Surge On Hub Port.
> 
> Is it Software or Hardware?


I talked about this earlier in the thread (there should be my answer within the last 100-150 posts) but mine did the same thing. Everything read fine. I even tested ports with a multimeter and there was no overvolting that I could see. I wound up disabling the alert and that was that.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Started getting today this from USB 3.0.
> Power Surge On Hub Port.
> Is it Software or Hardware?


It stopped for me after I updated BIOS past F8c and updated USB drivers.


----------



## bobn4burton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Where you are looking?
> UD5H - F8 dated 31.May


Is this the exact same F8 that you had posted on the Beta BIOS thread last week?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Where you are looking?
> UD5H - F8 dated 31.May


Oh. I have that already. Thanks.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Started getting today this from USB 3.0.
> Power Surge On Hub Port.
> Is it Software or Hardware?


Some have cured this with updating the drivers, some by uninstalling/reinstalling drivers. I think it's just Intel not having very optimized drivers early on.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> Is this the exact same F8 that you had posted on the Beta BIOS thread last week?


No,this F8 is dated 31.May and is different from last week.

Btw,
for UD5H F9a is also out.


----------



## s4e8

After bunch of beta BIOS of UD5H, I revert to F6l. This is first BIOS w/ working keyboard, and stable so far. F8 series has keyboard too, but give me constant BSOD PAGEFAULT_IN_NON_PAGED_AREA and BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO, with most settings AUTO. Through F6l working perfect and has higher BCLK.


----------



## waylonrobert

I have a question about RAM placement on the Z77X-D3H. I have 2x4GB Samsung 30nm low voltage DDR3 sticks. The manual didn't state specifically, so I put my RAM in the 2 slots farthest away from the CPU (so the two closer to the end of the board). In the BIOS, it only has readings for Channel B, whereas Channel A is blank. It recognizes both sticks, and so does Windows. Why doesn't the BIOS report data for Channel A? Or am I completely misunderstanding something?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waylonrobert*
> 
> I have a question about RAM placement on the Z77X-D3H. I have 2x4GB Samsung 30nm low voltage DDR3 sticks. The manual didn't state specifically, so I put my RAM in the 2 slots farthest away from the CPU (so the two closer to the end of the board). In the BIOS, it only has readings for Channel B, whereas Channel A is blank. It recognizes both sticks, and so does Windows. Why doesn't the BIOS report data for Channel A? Or am I completely misunderstanding something?


----------



## waylonrobert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*


So I should place 1 stick in DDR3_1 and another in DDR3_2? Currently 1 is in DDR3_1 and another is in DDR3_3.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waylonrobert*
> 
> So I should place 1 stick in DDR3_1 and another in DDR3_2? Currently 1 is in DDR3_1 and another is in DDR3_3.


Yes.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> does the new official have CPU PLL OV?
> Can you check for me? I am no where close to a test system.
> EDIT: NVM i just saw the change notes, it wont be in this BIOS.


Would there be any advantage to having this option with IB?
Plus I"m a little hazy on cpu pll, what all does it affect? I mean I adjusted to advantage on Z68/2600K but clarification of it's exact functions would be good.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waylonrobert*
> 
> So I should place 1 stick in DDR3_1 and another in DDR3_2? Currently 1 is in DDR3_1 and another is in DDR3_3.


Yes DDR3_1-> DDR3_2 -> DDR3_3-> DDR3_4


----------



## waylonrobert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yes.


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> Yes DDR3_1-> DDR3_2 -> DDR3_3-> DDR3_4


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*


Thanks again for the diagram.

I feel pretty stupid - I've had boards in the past where you were supposed to put the memory farthest away from the CPU. Looks like I need to pay more attention to the diagrams in motherboard manuals in the future.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Ok crew ,this is follow up to mSATA implementation , finally got my 30Gb Adata SSD today ,installed (thank for your help Sean







) and all i have to say it's like night and day ,just wow ,best $60 i have spend








Here is how i installed it
Note: this is cache for my HD (programs,games,etc.)
1-install SSD
2-do the tweak and change to raid in bios (you have to change to RAID in the BIOS after you do the reg edit.)
3-reinstall the IRST
4-set up SRT


the only thing i have to get rid of is this screen ..


EDIT;
here is Reg tweak if you installing this after Win7 installation
Quote:


> Exit all Windows-based programs.
> Press [Win] + R or take the RUN option from the start menu.
> Now type regedit there and press Enter Key to open up the Registry Editor Window.
> If you receive the User Account Control dialog box, click Continue.
> Locate and then click the following registry subkeys:
> Code:
> HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\msahci
> HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\iaStorV
> HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\iaStor
> 
> In the right pane, right-click Start in the Name column, and then click Modify.
> In the Value data box, type 0 [3 is default], and then click OK.
> On the File menu, click Exit to close Registry Editor.
> Restart your computer
> Go to UEFI/BIOS and enable RAID, Save & Reboot
> Another restart will be required to finish the driver installation.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1227636/how-to-change-sata-modes-after-windows-7-installation
http://www.overclock.net/t/1227655/how-to-set-up-intel-smart-response-technology-ssd-caching


----------



## DaClownie

Luke... Night and Day how? Boot time wise? I hate the RAID BIOS screen. That's what made me go away from RAID on my EP45 lol


----------



## coolhandluke41

this is based on just browsing opening up programs etc,i will have some more details once i start playing the games ...it's still early but so far i'm all ..


----------



## DaClownie

Really? Snappier than the C300? I thought everything felt instant with my C300 and now my M4 anyhow


----------



## coolhandluke41

someone did comparison of C300 and this small SSD and it was just as fast if not faster ..it's just super quick


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> hey guys i have a question about usb3 drivers
> there is intel usb3
> via usb
> do i need to install both? if so then. where are via usb ports? in the back i guess? and the intel ones are in the front via headers? , so if my fron ports are usb2 i don´t need intel usb3 drivers? right?


bump this for some answers, wanted to know as well


----------



## vvista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> bump this for some answers, wanted to know as well


Just the Intel USB 3.0 driver. The VIA USB chips are actually hub, converting 1 upstream to two downstream. Check the diagram in the manual. Use back USB blue ports to install Windows using USB flash drive.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> hey guys i have a question about usb3 drivers
> there is intel usb3
> via usb
> do i need to install both? if so then. where are via usb ports? in the back i guess? and the intel ones are in the front via headers? , so if my fron ports are usb2 i don´t need intel usb3 drivers? right?
> 
> 
> 
> bump this for some answers, wanted to know as well
Click to expand...

If you weren't installing the 3.5" USB3.0 ports, or your case doesn't have them, nor do you plan on using the USB 3.0 ports on the back of the case, you can skip the 3.0 drivers. Otherwise, install the Intel ones.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> If you weren't installing the 3.5" USB3.0 ports, or your case doesn't have them, nor do you plan on using the USB 3.0 ports on the back of the case, you can skip the 3.0 drivers. Otherwise, install the Intel ones.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvista*
> 
> Just the Intel USB 3.0 driver. The VIA USB chips are actually hub, converting 1 upstream to two downstream. Check the diagram in the manual. Use back USB blue ports to install Windows using USB flash drive.


thank you both of u


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Ok crew ,this is follow up to mSATA implementation , finally got my 30Gb Adata SSD today ,installed (thank for your help Sean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and all i have to say it's like night and day ,just wow ,best $60 i have spend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how i installed it
> Note: this is cache for my HD (programs,games,etc.)
> 1-install SSD
> 2-do the tweak and change to raid in bios (you have to change to RAID in the BIOS after you do the reg edit.)
> 3-reinstall the IRST
> 4-set up SRT
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the only thing i have to get rid of is this screen ..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT;
> here is Reg tweak if you installing this after Win7 installation
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1227636/how-to-change-sata-modes-after-windows-7-installation
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1227655/how-to-set-up-intel-smart-response-technology-ssd-caching


Nice implementation, I was just looking to find out some more about it.









*+1 Rep*

Do you use a ssd as primary (for windows) however, didn't you?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> thank you both of u


the same.....

just to be sure, i just use the usb in the back, and i have a usb external hard drive, so i must install just the intel usb3, not the via one

so far using f11 bios ud3h, no more mouse problems, maybe it is too soon to talk, let's wait and see


----------



## sena

Guys, should these boards have Internal PLL overvoltage? Or i am missing something.


----------



## vaevictis

GA-Z77X-UD3H DOA?

This is my 2nd new GA-Z77X-UD3H board, but it fails to even POST with a Core i5-3570K and Celeron G530 (supported by BIOS F7),
with 2x Corsair DDR3-1600 2x4GB kit, onboard graphics, stock cooler and Thermaltake M550W powersupply.

The onboard power button turns yellow and when I push the button the fans start spinning but the led diagnostics does not work.

Any suggestions? Do I need a heavier power supply (yes 12V is connected too)?.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Nice implementation, I was just looking to find out some more about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use a ssd as primary (for windows) however, didn't you?


yes i have OS on 64Gb C300,the 30Gb SSD is a cache for my 500Gb WD
P.S. hopefully will get response from GB on how to disable raid screen
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Guys, should these boards have Internal PLL overvoltage? Or i am missing something.


there will be an option in upcoming BIOSes,as of right now PLL Overvoltage is on auto (i think it's ON past 4.4 if i remember correctly)


----------



## Kristof

Hi, so I dont understand what PLL helps with. I used 1.8v and then lowered to 1.6v and I dont see any difference in temps.

Could someone explain?

Current settings (F11 BIOS):
3570k 4.8ghz @ 1.310v
Turbo disabled and states disabled
Extreme Perf.
Fast
Extreme
Extreme


----------



## s4e8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> yes i have OS on 64Gb C300,the 30Gb SSD is a cache for my 500Gb WD
> P.S. hopefully will get response from GB on how to disable raid screen


I don't like RAID screen too. In order to disable this screen, we need a UEFI option RAID ROM. But intel doesn't provide any UEFI rom, even it push UEFI tech so hard.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Hi, so I dont understand what PLL helps with. I used 1.8v and then lowered to 1.6v and I dont see any difference in temps.
> 
> Could someone explain?
> 
> Current settings (F11 BIOS):
> 3570k 4.8ghz @ 1.310v
> Turbo disabled and states disabled
> Extreme Perf.
> Fast
> Extreme
> Extreme


Some have noticed slightly better temps, other didn't. I'm personally just a fan of reducing voltages whenever possible. If it doesn't need 1.8, why feed it that much y'know?

However, 4.6GHz with 1.3v and PLL @ 1.8 gives me same temperatures as 4.7GHz with 1.33v and PLL @ 1.5. YMMV


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Some have noticed slightly better temps, other didn't. I'm personally just a fan of reducing voltages whenever possible. If it doesn't need 1.8, why feed it that much y'know?
> However, 4.6GHz with 1.3v and PLL @ 1.8 gives me same temperatures as 4.7GHz with 1.33v and PLL @ 1.5. YMMV


Should I try lowering PLL to 1.5 do you think?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Some have noticed slightly better temps, other didn't. I'm personally just a fan of reducing voltages whenever possible. If it doesn't need 1.8, why feed it that much y'know?
> However, 4.6GHz with 1.3v and PLL @ 1.8 gives me same temperatures as 4.7GHz with 1.33v and PLL @ 1.5. YMMV
> 
> 
> 
> Should I try lowering PLL to 1.5 do you think?
Click to expand...

What harm could it cause not to? Worst case, it's not stable with 1.5. Second to the worst case you lower voltage, it's stable, but temperatures stay the same. Best case, you save a couple degrees.

I personally wouldn't get all bent out of shape if it doesn't work though. As many others have stated, it's making very little difference overall.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaevictis*
> 
> GA-Z77X-UD3H DOA?
> This is my 2nd new GA-Z77X-UD3H board, but it fails to even POST with a Core i5-3570K and Celeron G530 (supported by BIOS F7),
> with 2x Corsair DDR3-1600 2x4GB kit, onboard graphics, stock cooler and Thermaltake M550W powersupply.
> The onboard power button turns yellow and when I push the button the fans start spinning but the led diagnostics does not work.
> Any suggestions? Do I need a heavier power supply (yes 12V is connected too)?.


you are doing something wrong. Did you plug the 8 pin connector for CPU power into the motherboard?


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Well after a month and a half of waiting for parts and constructing my new system, I finally turned it on today. It won't boot for me. It's a UDH5 Gigabyte mainboard. I am using GSKILL F3-17000CL9Q (4 x 4GB) RAM (PC-2133)

The CPU is an Ivy Bridge 3770k

I'm quite pissed, considering the time I spent on this, but I'm hoping you can help. I've tried clearing the CMOS, and using a single memory stick in it and it goes through the following codes:

19, 15, 36, 4F

Then it just shuts down.

Any subsequent attempt to power it back up without clearing the CMOS just yields a post code of "DB" and turns itself off

Thanks in advance.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> Well after a month and a half of waiting for parts and constructing my new system, I finally turned it on today. It won't boot for me. It's a UDH5 Gigabyte mainboard. I am using GSKILL F3-17000CL9Q (4 x 4GB) RAM (PC-2133)
> 
> The CPU is an Ivy Bridge 3770k
> 
> I'm quite pissed, considering the time I spent on this, but I'm hoping you can help. I've tried clearing the CMOS, and using a single memory stick in it and it goes through the following codes:
> 
> 19, 15, 36, 4F
> 
> Then it just shuts down.
> 
> Any subsequent attempt to power it back up without clearing the CMOS just yields a post code of "DB" and turns itself off
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Flip the BIOS switch on your UD5H to load the other BIOS. DB is a failed BIOS flash error code. For some reason, sounds like your motherboard shipped with one of the BIOS being bad.

The switch should be down near your USB hub ports in the lower right of your motherboard.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> yes i have OS on 64Gb C300,the 30Gb SSD is a cache for my 500Gb WD
> P.S. hopefully will get response from GB on how to disable raid screen
> there will be an option in upcoming BIOSes,as of right now PLL Overvoltage is on auto (i think it's ON past 4.4 if i remember correctly)


Thx for info. +1


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Flip the BIOS switch on your UD5H to load the other BIOS. DB is a failed BIOS flash error code. For some reason, sounds like your motherboard shipped with one of the BIOS being bad.
> The switch should be down near your USB hub ports in the lower right of your motherboard.


Looks like the backup bios is bad too... Same thing. A few more codes posted but in the end, all it does is power off.

At this point I have no other recourse but to contact Gigabyte and possibly get a new board. I've taken the liberty of buying 3 more QDC's so that I can just disconnect everything without having to drain the entire system.


----------



## stasio

Reseat your CPU and check your pins.
Do not tight CPU cooler to much.


----------



## Sin0822

yea db=dual BIOS code, its actually one code that can be identified by name. I don't think it is the board.Try putting the motherboard on the box it came with and build the system. So it just goes to db over and over? try one stick of memory in the slot furthest from the CPU.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea db=dual BIOS code, its actually one code that can be identified by name. I don't think it is the board.Try putting the motherboard on the box it came with and build the system. So it just goes to db over and over? try one stick of memory in the slot furthest from the CPU.


Yes it just posts "db" right before the power cuts out every time. According to the manual, that error code is associated with BIOS flash failure... So I assumed it was the board. :/

I will have to wait until I get the rest of the QDC's to try this - unfortunately I can't remove the board without draining the entire water system. It's getting exhausting. As of this week I will just put QDC's on the tubes going to and from the cooling blocks on the CPU and GPU, so that I can just disconnect them quickly to work with the bare board.

Luckily the tray is removable so I can take the whole thing out and work on it away from the PC. I think that's my best bet.. Should be getting those sometime this week.

I also did try the one stick of RAM in the slot furthest away from the PC, and got the same issue.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Reseat your CPU and check your pins.
> Do not tight CPU cooler to much.


Thanks!

Perhaps I did screw the cpu block down too tight, but I didn't think so. I'll re-seat the CPU once I get those QDC's


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Nice implementation, I was just looking to find out some more about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use a ssd as primary (for windows) however, didn't you?
> 
> 
> 
> yes i have OS on 64Gb C300,the 30Gb SSD is a cache for my 500Gb WD
> P.S. hopefully will get response from GB on how to disable raid screen
Click to expand...

I don't think you can get rid of the initial screen since is part of the RST rom, I have it on my old X58 too and I wouldn't mind having it on my new Z77 machine either


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Ok I tried a few other things. I removed the video card and tried without that just in case the card was bad - but I got the same issue. I tried multiple configurations with the RAM - one SIMM on the farthest slot, 2 on the farthest 2, 1 on the second over from the closest to the CPU.... all with the same power down problem

Now sometimes I see 4F flash up before it shuts off. Other times I briefly see what I think is "63" or something... but it always powers off.


----------



## Dhalmel

try reseat the cpu, sounds like you may just need to RMA the motherboard sadly


----------



## peck1234

Joining the club yall!!! My asrock junk crapped out after 4 days. Going back to my fav brand. GIGABYTE!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128541

Any comments on the integrated via audio chipset? Wondering how it will fair to the ALC898 I had on the asrock?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> yes i have OS on 64Gb C300,the 30Gb SSD is a cache for my 500Gb WD
> P.S. hopefully will get response from GB on how to disable raid screen
> there will be an option in upcoming BIOSes,as of right now PLL Overvoltage is on auto (i think it's ON past 4.4 if i remember correctly)


I had to back up and reread this. This is exactly what I was asking around about a while back and no one knew if you could have OS on one SSD and use the msata SSD to cache another drive or drives.
If I understand this right, actually you would want to have the OS installed already on your boot (SSD) drive before installing the msata SSD to cache a HDD?
After a while when you get used to the speed of an SSD, a HDD seems slower than SOS.








If you put together a full guide I'm sure it would be helpful for others. I may do this on my upcoming build.


----------



## sixor

well since f11 bios came out i have been using it, no mouse problems so far using latest usb3 drivers

USB3_allOS_1.0.5.235_PV

it seems that finally they fixed usb mouse bugs, i have plugged to the mouse usb port in the back, next to ps2


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> Ok I tried a few other things. I removed the video card and tried without that just in case the card was bad - but I got the same issue. I tried multiple configurations with the RAM - one SIMM on the farthest slot, 2 on the farthest 2, 1 on the second over from the closest to the CPU.... all with the same power down problem
> Now sometimes I see 4F flash up before it shuts off. Other times I briefly see what I think is "63" or something... but it always powers off.


have you tried clearing the CMOS?

DB can be the result of many things. You did try the video port on the motherboard, correct? If it says Ab, tat is okay Ab is normal for being in the BIOS.

Perhaps something is shorting the board. It could be the board, but on both BIOS probably not.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> have you tried clearing the CMOS?
> DB can be the result of many things. You did try the video port on the motherboard, correct? If it says Ab, tat is okay Ab is normal for being in the BIOS.
> Perhaps something is shorting the board. It could be the board, but on both BIOS probably not.


To answer your question: Yes, I cleared the CMOS multiple times (via the button on the board). I never saw any code "ab", and even without my PCI video card (just using the onboard video) I still get the same thing.

Not sure what's shorting the board. Could it be a power switch? Hmmm... I could try a different one. I did notice that as soon as I turn on the PSU via the switch on the back, it starts up even before I hit the power button. I am not sure why that is happening.


----------



## Sin0822

IMO you have tried a lot of things, perhaps RMA the motherboard, or if you can get another CPU try it out, otherwise RMA the board. Perhaps something is wrong or DOA. Stuff happens. I took a factory tour of the GB TW factory which was really cool experiences. THey said that all the high-end boards like the UD5H and UD3H are made in TW and tested to make sure they function before they are packed and shipped, and no joke they were working away. Of course some always will have issues through packaging or other things. Id just RMA it, if you are int he USA i hear good things about the GB RMA process, perhaps your retailer will even take care of you.

BTW Mandrix for CPu PLL OV function you asked a few pages back, sorry i just got back and read through the posts, listen it helps CPu OC with ivy and sandy, it is needed for high memory OC(24x and above need to enable) but Ivy Bridge can resume from S3 sleep with it enabled, but SB cannot do that, SB needs ti disabled to resume from S3 sleep. THus a lot of users have asked for it and I have repeatedly asked for it, I am told it is coming soon in a beta BIOS or something. It is currently auto engaged with any OC, however i see some users still asked where is the setting, and many SB users demand it so I have passed along your concerns.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> IMO you have tried a lot of things, perhaps RMA the motherboard, or if you can get another CPU try it out, otherwise RMA the board. Perhaps something is wrong or DOA. Stuff happens. I took a factory tour of the GB TW factory which was really cool experiences. THey said that all the high-end boards like the UD5H and UD3H are made in TW and tested to make sure they function before they are packed and shipped, and no joke they were working away. Of course some always will have issues through packaging or other things. Id just RMA it, if you are int he USA i hear good things about the GB RMA process, perhaps your retailer will even take care of you.


Perhaps Newegg would make an exception for me, but they only have a 30 day return policy, and alas, because of all the delays building this thing (it took about 1.5 - 2 months total), I am past my 30 day limit.

Yep. Newegg refused to help. No RMA for me. Looks like I'm going to have to deal with Gigabyte directly.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> well since f11 bios came out i have been using it, no mouse problems so far using latest usb3 drivers
> USB3_allOS_1.0.5.235_PV
> it seems that finally they fixed usb mouse bugs, i have plugged to the mouse usb port in the back, next to ps2


lol i spoke too soon, usb bug mouse still there

this is beyond all stupidity

wow really gigabyte?


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> well since f11 bios came out i have been using it, no mouse problems so far using latest usb3 drivers
> USB3_allOS_1.0.5.235_PV
> it seems that finally they fixed usb mouse bugs, i have plugged to the mouse usb port in the back, next to ps2


Oh god. I hope I don't have this issue. Does the USB 2.0 port work for mice at least?


----------



## 2therock

Hi Guys,
Running the UD5H WiFi / 3770K @4.5 & 16GB of Samsung Green RAM I would like to step in here and comment. I am hoping to see some others notes and settings to compare with.
I am NOT a seasoned overclocker so please feel free to suggest and/or hammer me if need be.

Before I clocked mine to 4.5 I could do configurations of 1866 and 2133, some @ 1T and some @ 2T but after the clock I could never consistently pass (more than once) an Intel Burn Test on high.
So I kind of gave up.

Seeing F9a on the TT forums I decided to play around with it on the boards switched backup BIOS and go after the 1866 again. I managed to get it to pass IBT 3 in a row.

I read the Vtt & IMC should be kept within .005 of each other and seen my Vtt was 1.050 in Auto so I took it out of Auto entering 1.050. My IMC was 0.925 in Auto and done the same but entering 1.045 to maintain the .005 span.

1866 - 10-10-10-26 2T @1.45v.

I tried the above first in 1T and it failed. Then in 2T and it passes IBT every time.

I would like to see others detailed 2133 configs with the UD5H, 3770K @4.5 & 16GB of the Sammy Green Ram.

FYI, My board came with F4, it has never gave me any of the issues that seem to be widely reported on the UD5H. Not one freeze or BSOD on F4, F7, F8 or F9a stock or clocked.
I do wish it would enter BIOS with a wireless keyboard though.


----------



## Sin0822

You should try increase ram volts.


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> You should try increase ram volts.


I am also trying to OC this memory. I have 4 x 4gb.

Currently, I am at 1866 9-9-9-24
DRAM Voltage @ 1.5v (stock)
VTT raised to 1.1v from 1.050v
IMC raised to 1.095v from .925v

Memtest86+ doesnt recognize the memory as it should.
It reads that the IMC is at 70mhz and DDR3-1322. I dont understand why.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> Oh god. I hope I don't have this issue. Does the USB 2.0 port work for mice at least?


all the usb work, but sometimes on some boots the mouse gets no power, you have to unplug it and plug again, if you have front usb2, i believe they don´t have problems, the bugs are in the back usb ports

at least the only good thing, is that mouse is the only affected, all the other devices have no issues


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> all the usb work, but sometimes on some boots the mouse gets no power, you have to unplug it and plug again, if you have front usb2, i believe they don´t have problems, the bugs are in the back usb ports
> at least the only good thing, is that mouse is the only affected, all the other devices have no issues


Phew. Thank goodness for that.


----------



## Yor_

Is it safe to raise IMC from the 0.925? Intel says 0.971 is recommended max.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> all the usb work, but sometimes on some boots the mouse gets no power, you have to unplug it and plug again, if you have front usb2, i believe they don´t have problems, the bugs are in the back usb ports
> at least the only good thing, is that mouse is the only affected, all the other devices have no issues


try different mouse ...i have G9X connected on the back and not a single issue


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> try different mouse ...i have G9X connected on the back and not a single issue


I also had not had the issues with USB ports except for when I plugged in my Logitech 3D Extreme Flight Stick into one of the rear USB 3.0/2.0 ports I could not get control of my mouse pointer (frozen) in the bios. Took a while to figure out but once I did I just relocated that device to my expansion card which has additional USB 2.0 ports and all was good. Until last night.

I thought I would install the new USB 3.0 driver posted on Gigabyte web site. Downloaded to desktop and unpacked (to desktop). Double clicked the setup and everything seemed to be going ok, then all of a sudden I lost power to my mouse and keyboard. Both of these devices are plugged into the rear USB 3.0/2.0 ports. Took me a while to figure out that all I need to do was unplug them and plug them into front USB 2.0 ports. Once working I updated the USB drivers from Device Manager and everything went back to normal. Rear USB 3.0/2.0 ports became operational again.


----------



## r0ach

I've been using the F7 UD5H BIOS dated May 11-12th for about a week now with my 2500k. Haven't had any freeze issues or audio popping or anything like that, that I saw on F8A. So far this is the perfect 2500k BIOS.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> Running the UD5H WiFi / 3770K @4.5 & 16GB of Samsung Green RAM I would like to step in here and comment. I am hoping to see some others notes and settings to compare with.
> I am NOT a seasoned overclocker so please feel free to suggest and/or hammer me if need be.
> Before I clocked mine to 4.5 I could do configurations of 1866 and 2133, some @ 1T and some @ 2T but after the clock I could never consistently pass (more than once) an Intel Burn Test on high.
> So I kind of gave up.
> Seeing F9a on the TT forums I decided to play around with it on the boards switched backup BIOS and go after the 1866 again. I managed to get it to pass IBT 3 in a row.
> I read the Vtt & IMC should be kept within .005 of each other and seen my Vtt was 1.050 in Auto so I took it out of Auto entering 1.050. My IMC was 0.925 in Auto and done the same but entering 1.045 to maintain the .005 span.
> 1866 - 10-10-10-26 2T @1.45v.
> I tried the above first in 1T and it failed. Then in 2T and it passes IBT every time.
> I would like to see others detailed 2133 configs with the UD5H, 3770K @4.5 & 16GB of the Sammy Green Ram.
> FYI, My board came with F4, it has never gave me any of the issues that seem to be widely reported on the UD5H. Not one freeze or BSOD on F4, F7, F8 or F9a stock or clocked.
> I do wish it would enter BIOS with a wireless keyboard though.


Like Sin said you can try raising the ram voltage. I've run that memory at 1.55v before. That might get you to a 1T command rate. Worth a try. When I talked to you I didn't realize you were running 1.45. If you told me I apologize.


----------



## eaglepowers

Is there a difference running it 1t vs 2t? I'm running 2t, 16gb Samung green at 1866, 9,9,9,24 at 1.35v.


----------



## barkeater

It used to be that you took a big performance hit going from 1T to 2T (in bandwidth?). Not sure if that is the case anymore.


----------



## homestyle

easytune 6.

is it worth installing easytune 6? does it provide more functionality than what is provided in the bios?

more specifically, how much fine tune does it allow for the fan speeds?


----------



## barkeater

you can create a custom fan profile in ET6, which you can't do in bios


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> you can create a custom fan profile in ET6, which you can't do in bios


how many of the fan headers can be controlled this way?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> how many of the fan headers can be controlled this way?


CPU, Sysfan 1 are both pwm and voltage controlled.
2 and 3 only PWM.
Sysfan 4 always 100%.

It is this way for at least now on UD5H. Let me check for UD3H


----------



## DeXel

OK, looks like UD3H has voltage and PWM control on CPU header. Then voltage control on 1, 2, 3. Sys_fan 4 100%.

This is according to UD3H manual page 26, might be not totally true though.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> CPU, Sysfan 1 are both pwm and voltage controlled.
> 2 and 3 only PWM.
> Sysfan 4 always 100%.
> It is this way for at least now on UD5H. Let me check for UD3H


Yeah, I'm using speedfan to control my cpu fan and sys fan 1 on my ud3h board.

i was hoping easytune6 would let me use my 3 pin fans on sys fan 2 and 3 with voltage control.

anyone confirm 3 pin fans work with easytune 6 with sys fan 2 and 3 headers?


----------



## Sin0822

i think sys 4 isn't 100% perhaps more like 50%, try it and see, i tried it didn't seem like it was 100%.

T1 versus T2? only in benching will the difference be obvious, then again like 90% of memory OC is only noticeable in benching lol.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i think sys 4 isn't 100% perhaps more like 50%, try it and see, i tried it didn't seem like it was 100%.
> T1 versus T2? only in benching will the difference be obvious, then again like 90% of memory OC is only noticeable in benching lol.


is that's why you running 2133 RAM instead of 1333 ?...lol


----------



## Sin0822

i said 90% lol


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i think sys 4 isn't 100% perhaps more like 50%, try it and see, i tried it didn't seem like it was 100%.


If software monitoring is correct then it drives my 1200rpm fan full speed. Visually it looks that way too compared to the same fan on the other header (SYS_FAN 3 I think) fan.


----------



## isidore

The db error code is driving me crazy. I get it random from time to time, after two resets the PC boots. I tried many bios but not one resolved this. Any ideas?


----------



## Sin0822

ahh okay. I should be back with a system in like 24 hours, so probably i will test it then.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isidore*
> 
> The db error code is driving me crazy. I get it random from time to time, after two resets the PC boots. I tried many bios but not one resolved this. Any ideas?


last time i checked it was fixed, you try BIOS F7? try it again and after you flash try loading optimized defaults and restarting.


----------



## isidore

yes, i'm using f7 right now, i flashed from usb and after flashing i restarted the pc and load optimized defaults. Everything work great, but today i shut down my PC by mistake and when i powered it back on i had the same issue..seriously it's damn annoying.


----------



## barkinos98

does anybody have info/idea on the wifi card on UD5H-WiFi edition (or such). im planning on a hackintosh/win7 dual boot build so i need info.


----------



## Sin0822

yea i will check it out again and report.

what kind of info on the card do you need?


----------



## sixor

tpu just published a review of the udh5, read that


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea i will check it out again and report.
> what kind of info on the card do you need?


the name of the chipset. if its a compatible model (works out of box or needs a little hacking) or not.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> does anybody have info/idea on the wifi card on UD5H-WiFi edition (or such). im planning on a hackintosh/win7 dual boot build so i need info.


Well, it is dual-band atheros card. If you need more info, please specify.

I believe Mac OS uses Intel networking, so you may need some hacking.

EDIT: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4135#ov
The good thing about it is that it is basically pci-e mini to pci-e adapter with wifi pci-e mini card installed in there. Basically you can swap the card in the future if you decide so.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Well, it is dual-band atheros card. If you need more info, please specify.
> I believe Mac OS uses Intel networking, so you may need some hacking.
> EDIT: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4135#ov
> The good thing about it is that it is basically pci-e mini to pci-e adapter with wifi pci-e mini card installed in there. Basically you can swap the card in the future if you decide so.


ah i see. well, for wireless apple uses broadcom. also using a minipci-e to pci-e adapter and a used/new wifi card from a apple device, i can make a wifi adapter. well, then i will go with the normal as $20 is $20 (lol no cheap dude here)


----------



## DeXel

I think the adapter alone is going to cost you more than $20... although I did not check the prices for a while. And you will also need the antennas.

EDIT: Well looks like prices are down http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=mini+pci-e+pci-e+adapter+antenna.


----------



## isidore

Ok, updated again with F7:

1. Shutdown PC and unplug power cord.
2. Reset CMOS.
3. Load Optimized defaults.
4. Update Bios from USB.
5. Restart after the update, entered bios, load optimized defaults again.
6. Boot into windows.
7. Restart set all of my Overclock settings.

I sure hope the db error stops.
Also: does the backup bios has to be updated also? cause my version is the default F4.


----------



## xPhoto

I have a problem with extreme core temperature differences with i5-3570K on Z77X-UD5H.
I'm pretty sure it has no connection with the motherboard but I put a post here so Sin or someone else can help I would be grateful.
Here is the link to thread under the Intel CPU forum part so I don't repeat the post here: Ivy Bridge - Extreme Core Temperature Differences


----------



## peck1234

In Progress! (waiting for my thermal great and 4-4pin psu extension.

Also, guys, I bought a soundblaster Recon3d http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102041

WIll this be an upgrade compared to the onboard via chipset? The via pushes a SNR of 110DB ???


----------



## EvgeniX

running F9a (the same F8) and still can not find settings for VTT, IMC, VRAM for Samsung 30nm 4x4GB to run it 2133+ even with 1866 only working with 1.55 Vram @ 9-9-9-24-1T with 1.075 VTT and 1.025 IMC (I know about 0.005 but it does not work for me....) if I make IMC > 1.025 its more unstable.... so still waiting new better BIOS!!!!!


----------



## Cobalt

Okay I have a dilemma, I was going to drive to Micro Center to pick up my processor + motherboard but they don't carry the Wifi version of the UD5H, is the wifi expansion card the ONLY difference between the UD5H and the UD5H WB, if it is i suppose i could just go to Micro Center to get the deal and also pick up a separate Wifi card to go with the motherboard.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobalt*
> 
> Okay I have a dilemma, I was going to drive to Micro Center to pick up my processor + motherboard but they don't carry the Wifi version of the UD5H, is the wifi expansion card the ONLY difference between the UD5H and the UD5H WB, if it is i suppose i could just go to Micro Center to get the deal and also pick up a separate Wifi card to go with the motherboard.


yes only wifi card


----------



## Cobalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> yes only wifi card


Wow that's really a pain considering that particular wifi card costs around $70 on it's own :/

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good wifi card?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobalt*
> 
> Wow that's really a pain considering that particular wifi card costs around $70 on it's own :/
> Does anyone have any recommendations for a good wifi card?


this card cost $30


----------



## Cobalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> this card cost $30


Yeah I found it on Amazon









Still an extra $20


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> There seems to be a *new USB3 Driver* recently released from Intel, Version 1.0.5.235.
> Bearing in mind that many people have suffered USB3 related issues on the GB Z77 boards, I wonder if anyone has tried this driver yet?
> 
> I also saw (somewhere) a new *Intel INF driver* set 9.3.0.1020, apparently intended for Intel boards but people have managed to extract and manually load updated drivers via Device Manager.
> 
> (Just scratchin' around for ideas that might help people still experiencing bugs.... Apologies if these have been mentioned here already - this is getting to be a bit of a mega-thread and I might have missed it.)


I installed those drivers a week ago.

I have USB speakers, and now am noticing the Windows startup sound. I guess the old driver was a bit delayed in recognizing the speakers at logon.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isidore*
> 
> Ok, updated again with F7:
> 1. Shutdown PC and unplug power cord.
> 2. Reset CMOS.
> 3. Load Optimized defaults.
> 4. Update Bios from USB.
> 5. Restart after the update, entered bios, load optimized defaults again.
> 6. Boot into windows.
> 7. Restart set all of my Overclock settings.
> I sure hope the db error stops.
> Also: does the backup bios has to be updated also? cause my version is the default F4.


if you still have the issue, update your backup BIOS. If GB adds a feature to the main, and the main and backup have some discrepancy then that error might come up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xPhoto*
> 
> I have a problem with extreme core temperature differences with i5-3570K on Z77X-UD5H.
> I'm pretty sure it has no connection with the motherboard but I put a post here so Sin or someone else can help I would be grateful.
> Here is the link to thread under the Intel CPU forum part so I don't repeat the post here: Ivy Bridge - Extreme Core Temperature Differences


I think the issue is just the placement of the temperature sensor as well as how the load is handled, also different ores are closer to different things. Like the CPU cores are right in the middle, with cache in parallel wit it and then system agent on one end and iGPU on the other. I wouldn't worry about it, just reseat/remount and try again, there is nothing you can do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peck1234*
> 
> In Progress! (waiting for my thermal great and 4-4pin psu extension.
> Also, guys, I bought a soundblaster Recon3d http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102041
> WIll this be an upgrade compared to the onboard via chipset? The via pushes a SNR of 110DB ???


Can i ask a question, why didn't you just get the G1.Sniper M3? it is slightly more and OCs better and has that sound card on board.
SNR isn't so important in this case, 90 is enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> I installed those drivers a week ago.
> I have USB speakers, and now am noticing the Windows startup sound. I guess the old driver was a bit delayed in recognizing the speakers at logon.


IMO Intel needs to release more drivers.


----------



## jpastuch

Hey everyone, just joined this forum to address a problem in my new build.

I'm using the Z77X-D3H board with Win 7. Everything was going pretty good on it, good temps, stable, etc.

A few hours in, the mobo starts sounding this high pitched tone. I see no warning on screen so I look in my case and the CPU fan is not spinning (I have the Hyper 212 EVO) so I shut the PC off immediately.

At first I thought it was the fan...I have not tested it yet but spins fine when I push it. This problem did not happen until I installed the drivers disc that came with the board, and I read a review on Newegg that brought up the same exact problem.

Was just wondering if this is a known issue, I'd love it to be software related rather than replacing the fan. But really I'm mostly scared I have a faulty CPU header.


----------



## peck1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> if you still have the issue, update your backup BIOS. If GB adds a feature to the main, and the main and backup have some discrepancy then that error might come up.
> I think the issue is just the placement of the temperature sensor as well as how the load is handled, also different ores are closer to different things. Like the CPU cores are right in the middle, with cache in parallel wit it and then system agent on one end and iGPU on the other. I wouldn't worry about it, just reseat/remount and try again, there is nothing you can do.
> Can i ask a question, why didn't you just get the G1.Sniper M3? it is slightly more and OCs better and has that sound card on board.
> SNR isn't so important in this case, 90 is enough.
> IMO Intel needs to release more drivers.


Mainly because the D3H was 75 Dollars cheaper. More of a bargain..


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> running F9a (the same F8) and still can not find settings for VTT, IMC, VRAM for Samsung 30nm 4x4GB to run it 2133+ even with 1866 only working with 1.55 Vram @ 9-9-9-24-1T with 1.075 VTT and 1.025 IMC (I know about 0.005 but it does not work for me....) if I make IMC > 1.025 its more unstable.... so still waiting new better BIOS!!!!!


Sin can you recommend something what should I try?


----------



## grizindabox

Just notified by Gigabyte that my board is on its way home...hoping for the best


----------



## gooface

Just got this:
Quote:


> A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage
> to your computer.
> 
> The problem seems to be caused by the following file: ntoskrnl.exe
> 
> IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
> 
> If this is the first time you've seen this stop error screen,
> restart your computer. If this screen appears again, follow
> these steps:
> 
> Check to make sure any new hardware or software is properly installed.
> If this is a new installation, ask your hardware or software manufacturer
> for any Windows updates you might need.
> 
> If problems continue, disable or remove any newly installed hardware
> or software. Disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing.
> If you need to use safe mode to remove or disable components, restart
> your computer, press F8 to select Advanced Startup Options, and then
> select Safe Mode.
> 
> Technical Information:
> 
> *** STOP: 0x0000000a (0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000002, 0x0000000000000000,
> 0xfffff80002ce1766)
> 
> *** ntoskrnl.exe - Address 0xfffff80002cdd1c0 base at 0xfffff80002c5e000 DateStamp
> 0x4f76721c


Got this while gaming on BF3, never got this before.

Running at 4.2ghz, 2400mhz RAM (XMP profile 1)

Do I need to increase VTT volts? (set as Auto right now)


----------



## peck1234

IRQL is usually a memory related error. Install memtest on a USB flash drive and put your memory through its paces, (G Skull is notorious for bad memory)


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peck1234*
> 
> IRQL is usually a memory related error. Install memtest on a USB flash drive and put your memory through its paces, (G Skull is notorious for bad memory)


lol wut..

G.SKILL is not even close to notorious for bad memory. Perhaps OCZ, but certainly not G.SKILL. They have the highest rated memory in almost every category on Newegg, and our 4P folders love it as well.


----------



## peck1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> lol wut..
> G.SKILL is not even close to notorious for bad memory. Perhaps OCZ, but certainly not G.SKILL. They have the highest rated memory in almost every category on Newegg, and our 4P folders love it as well.


Ok, regardless, he should run a memtest just to be sure!!!


----------



## stasio

New BIOS is out.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> New BIOS is out.


something new? or just stability?


----------



## Yor_

I'm seeing many new options in this BIOS, a 'legacy benchmark enhancement' thing...a menu for 'CSM parameters', XHCI defaulting to 'Auto' instead of 'Smart Auto'...are the ones I remember.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> I'm seeing many new options in this BIOS, a 'legacy benchmark' thing...a menu for 'CSM support'... are the ones I remember.


Also I see 3D power menu does not work or something changed.....

does not matter what I set low, high or else it drop VCORE on 1+ volt

from 1.37 to 1.274 on full load..... bug or how its work now?????


----------



## EvgeniX

Please fix VCORE drop....


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> Please fix VCORE drop....











What you mean?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you mean?


3D power menu does not work or something changed.....

does not matter what I set LLC low, high or else it drop VCORE on 1+ volt

from 1.37 to 1.274 on full load..... bug or how its work now?????


----------



## stasio

Extreme, Turbo ?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> I'm seeing many new options in this BIOS, a 'legacy benchmark enhancement' thing...a menu for 'CSM parameters', XHCI defaulting to 'Auto' instead of 'Smart Auto'...are the ones I remember.


Which BIOS version is that?


----------



## Yor_

F9c


----------



## sixor

on tweaktown
f12d for ud3h
and also the bios from the world record XD

not going to test them


----------



## gooface

I ran Memtest86 and it locked up after 50 mins with no errors and 2 successful passes.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpastuch*
> 
> Hey everyone, just joined this forum to address a problem in my new build.
> I'm using the Z77X-D3H board with Win 7. Everything was going pretty good on it, good temps, stable, etc.
> A few hours in, the mobo starts sounding this high pitched tone. I see no warning on screen so I look in my case and the CPU fan is not spinning (I have the Hyper 212 EVO) so I shut the PC off immediately.
> At first I thought it was the fan...I have not tested it yet but spins fine when I push it. This problem did not happen until I installed the drivers disc that came with the board, and I read a review on Newegg that brought up the same exact problem.
> Was just wondering if this is a known issue, I'd love it to be software related rather than replacing the fan. But really I'm mostly scared I have a faulty CPU header.


CPU fan not spinning is not good. Hopefully you shutdown before damaged anything (i.e., cpu, etc.). Try installing the stock cpu heatsink and be ready to do a fast shutdown if that cpu fan doesn't spin right away. If possible, plug the Hyper 212 EVO into one of the other fan headers and see if its fan comes on when you do a start up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Just notified by Gigabyte that my board is on its way home...hoping for the best


Glad to hear. Once you get it back and put together, post back and let us know how things worked out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface*
> 
> Just got this:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage
> to your computer.
> The problem seems to be caused by the following file: ntoskrnl.exe
> IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
> If this is the first time you've seen this stop error screen,
> restart your computer. If this screen appears again, follow
> these steps:
> Check to make sure any new hardware or software is properly installed.
> If this is a new installation, ask your hardware or software manufacturer
> for any Windows updates you might need.
> If problems continue, disable or remove any newly installed hardware
> or software. Disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing.
> If you need to use safe mode to remove or disable components, restart
> your computer, press F8 to select Advanced Startup Options, and then
> select Safe Mode.
> Technical Information:
> *** STOP: 0x0000000a (0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000002, 0x0000000000000000,
> 0xfffff80002ce1766)
> *** ntoskrnl.exe - Address 0xfffff80002cdd1c0 base at 0xfffff80002c5e000 DateStamp
> 0x4f76721c
> 
> 
> 
> Got this while gaming on BF3, never got this before.
> Running at 4.2ghz, 2400mhz RAM (XMP profile 1)
> Do I need to increase VTT volts? (set as Auto right now)
Click to expand...

Likely instability with OC. Try setting all back to optimized default and then run game to see if you still get error message. If you do, then you should pull all your memory and test each stick individually with memtest.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> 3D power menu does not work or something changed.....
> does not matter what I set LLC low, high or else it drop VCORE on 1+ volt
> from 1.37 to 1.274 on full load..... bug or how its work now?????


I think it would be more helpful if you provided more information as to what problem you are experiencing as just reposting the same exact thing is not useful.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> F9c


Thanks.


----------



## sixor

just for testing i put my ram corsair vengeance 1600 @1800 and windows could not boot, just to let you know, i guess it need moar ram vcroe


----------



## xPhoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xPhoto*
> 
> I have a problem with extreme core temperature differences with i5-3570K on Z77X-UD5H.
> I'm pretty sure it has no connection with the motherboard but I put a post here so Sin or someone else can help I would be grateful.
> Here is the link to thread under the Intel CPU forum part so I don't repeat the post here: Ivy Bridge - Extreme Core Temperature Differences
> 
> 
> 
> I think the issue is just the placement of the temperature sensor as well as how the load is handled, also different ores are closer to different things. Like the CPU cores are right in the middle, with cache in parallel wit it and then system agent on one end and iGPU on the other. I wouldn't worry about it, just reseat/remount and try again, there is nothing you can do.
Click to expand...

Sin but how to explain idle temp on that core 10C below room temp with air cooler?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Extreme, Turbo ?


All the same.... back to F9a cos even with all default can not boot - 101 BSOD


----------



## sixor

guys please urgent help, something died on my pc,

it was fine, i turned off, 2 hours later it does not turn on

the mobo does not start, if i press clear cmos, then the power led turns of for a moment, but nothing else works,

maybe it was the PSU? or the mobo


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> guys please urgent help, something died on my pc,
> it was fine, i turned off, 2 hours later it does not turn on
> the mobo does not start, if i press clear cmos, then the power led turns of for a moment, but nothing else works,
> maybe it was the PSU? or the mobo


Easiest way to factor out the PSU is to jump start it. Did you move anything around in the case that could cause a short?


----------



## sixor

nope, i was using the pc al fine, turned off, 2 hours later.......... dead

only when i press clear cmos, the power button on the mobo turns, nothing else, also the bios lever did not worked

i will read jump start de psu

thanks

btw
any experience with gigabyte RMA, or should i contact amazon,


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> nope, i was using the pc al fine, turned off, 2 hours later.......... dead
> only when i press clear cmos, the power button on the mobo turns, nothing else, also the bios lever did not worked
> i will read jump start de psu
> thanks
> btw
> any experience with gigabyte RMA, or should i contact amazon,


I have only tried to RMA with them once and it didn't go through. But that could be an isolated incident so don't take that to heart.


----------



## steve210

When I turn on my computer the first time it did not power up so I trouble shoot every cable disconnected every thing then I tried power up again no luck I figure it was gigabyte ga-z77x-ud3h motherboard was defected so I called newegg they rma sent me new gigabyte ga-z77x-ud3h. I have not had a single problem since with my gigabyte ga-z77x-ud3h


----------



## sixor

well i jump started the psu and turned on, so i guess it is the mobo

wow, really, how could die being off?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> well i jump started the psu and turned on, so i guess it is the mobo
> wow, really, how could die being off?


did you try 2nd BIOS?


----------



## sixor

yep, several times flipped the switch,

the only thing the mobo does is turn the led of the power button when i press clear cmos button

i tested another psu, still the same, the mobo died, wow awesome quality, i just had 4.5ghz for like 2 weeks, on 1.27 vcore, temps were good too, this sucks so much i can't even...........

and i live in venezuela, now i have to pay a lot to ship to usa, then again to ship back, wow, i kinda think on getting an xbox and forget all pc stuff, my old cheapo giga 785g oced my 965be, never died even with oc and vcore, but this thing died in 2 weeks


----------



## barkeater

why not try and see if something is not just shorting out. place mobo on antistatic bag or cardboard box it came in. hook up the bare minimum. Do a cmos reset, and fire up to see if it really is the board. I would do that before rma'ing just in case.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> yep, several times flipped the switch,
> the only thing the mobo does is turn the led of the power button when i press clear cmos button
> i tested another psu, still the same, the mobo died, wow awesome quality, i just had 4.5ghz for like 2 weeks, on 1.27 vcore, temps were good too, this sucks so much i can't even...........
> and i live in venezuela, now i have to pay a lot to ship to usa, then again to ship back, wow, i kinda think on getting an xbox and forget all pc stuff, my old cheapo giga 785g oced my 965be, never died even with oc and vcore, but this thing died in 2 weeks


Quote:


> Always turn off your computer and unplug the power cord from the power outlet before clearing
> the CMOS values


----------



## sixor

sure, i will try anything

thanks guys

still nothing, super dead


----------



## barkeater

at least its still under warranty


----------



## sixor

well yeah, amazon will send a new one, but i have to pay shipping from usa to venezuela, and also send the damaged mobo to use, wasting a lot of precious money

wow........so dissapointed


----------



## EvgeniX

it only for me BIOS F9c???

LLC = Extreme (but it the same for all levels)
BIOS VCORE = 1.37V
CPU-Z idle = 1.368V
CPU-Z FULL Load = 1.274V-1.284V

so its just me or its bug in F9c ???????????


----------



## peck1234

Guys just put together my build, and no post. Screen is just black

Tried the onboard gpu and my gtx 285, (i notice the fan on my 285 is not spinning..


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> it only for me BIOS F9c???
> LLC = Extreme (but it the same for all levels)
> BIOS VCORE = 1.37V
> CPU-Z idle = 1.368V
> CPU-Z FULL Load = 1.274V-1.284V
> so its just me or its bug in F9c ???????????


same here

as a result i cant get my cpu past 4.5ghz

downgraded to f9a and all is fine again


----------



## sixor

well thanks to all for their help

the mobo ended dead no matter what

amazon will ship a new one and i have to send the dead one, they will pay for the shipping from venezuela to usa at least.........it's somehing

now i am afraid of another gigabyte mobo,

it was very weird of the mobo to die when it was off


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> same here
> as a result i cant get my cpu past 4.5ghz
> downgraded to f9a and all is fine again


good.... so its not only me... waiting for new BIOS....


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> well thanks to all for their help
> the mobo ended dead no matter what
> amazon will ship a new one and i have to send the dead one, they will pay for the shipping from venezuela to usa at least.........it's somehing
> now i am afraid of another gigabyte mobo,
> it was very weird of the mobo to die when it was off


Sorry to hear that Sixor, yea it really shouldn't die like that(first one i have heard of to be honest), are you sure it isn't the CPU, do you have a friend with a motherboard you can check? I have heard of some Ivy CPU's dieing for no reason at low clocks/volts. How were your temperatures like?

Also-
Yea don't use F9C then, that is why it is a beta. Also make sure you load optimized defaults after you flash. I just got home today but I am really jet-lagged, i will look into some of your problems tomorrow.

BTW if you aren't getting any video, what POST Code do you get? Did you build your system outside your case?


----------



## mikailmohammed

are the F11 bios for the Z77 UD3H any good??


----------



## Sin0822

try it you have dual BIOS.


----------



## peck1234

Just like to add that the it was actually my PSU. I dont get it, the psu was running fine for 3+ years, than on the day I decide to do a rebuild it fails.... ?

Whatever, loving my board!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peck1234*
> 
> Guys just put together my build, and no post. Screen is just black
> Tried the onboard gpu and my gtx 285, (i notice the fan on my 285 is not spinning..


so it was your PSu huh?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Sorry to hear that Sixor, yea it really shouldn't die like that(first one i have heard of to be honest), are you sure it isn't the CPU, do you have a friend with a motherboard you can check? I have heard of some Ivy CPU's dieing for no reason at low clocks/volts. How were your temperatures like?
> Also-
> Yea don't use F9C then, that is why it is a beta. Also make sure you load optimized defaults after you flash. I just got home today but I am really jet-lagged, i will look into some of your problems tomorrow.
> BTW if you aren't getting any video, what POST Code do you get? Did you build your system outside your case?


well i have no way to know if it was the cpu, since cpu almost never dies, but could be,

i had 4.5ghz at 1.27 vcore, turbo llc,
\
temps were 30 iddle, 60 gaming, 75max benching prime

wow, now i am afraid for the cpu, amazon already sent the new mobo


----------



## Sin0822

yea of course, it could be the board, id say most likely 70/30 as the CPus usually just don't die. You don't have another CPu do you?

Did you try a proper CMOS clear? Take out the batter, unplug the power plugs, and then short the battery connector leads and then hit clear CMOS and hold it down.


----------



## sixor

holy sweet mother of god

i did that and the stupid mobo turned on XD

i only have the mobo, ram, cpu without cooler outside of case, but it became alive, wow just wow,

i need to put hyper212plus ASAP and test all, will come back

thanks a lot


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> holy sweet mother of god
> i did that and the stupid mobo turned on XD
> i only have the mobo, ram, cpu without cooler outside of case, but it became alive, wow just wow,
> i need to put hyper212plus ASAP and test all, will come back
> thanks a lot


FUN returns!!


----------



## sixor

well i plugged the hyper212 and booted with only cpu, ram, mobo, keyboard, the mobo it's alive, it's live

i don't even have it on the case, just on my desktop with nothing else attached

wow, sin, thanks a lot, really,

i don't get it, i did like 50 clear cmos to the mobo, but just pressing the button on mobo, not like you said, but it did the work

now i am in debt with you and amazon XD

thanks men


----------



## Sin0822

you are welcome. yea that is how you do a real CMOS clear, we used to always have to take out the battery, but now people are lazy and we have buttons. One issue with Z77 and Z68 boards is that the CMOs doesn't always fully clear, but heck you don't always need to clear it. IMO you can RMA the board if you still want, you shouldn't have to clear the CMOS like that.


----------



## sixor

too late since i live in venezuela, i just can't rma things easily, amazon already sent me the mobo, i guess i will have to pay it









tomorrow i will put all things again, and test , will comments

really thanks


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you are welcome. yea that is how you do a real CMOS clear, we used to always have to take out the battery, but now people are lazy and we have buttons. One issue with Z77 and Z68 boards is that the CMOs doesn't always fully clear, but heck you don't always need to clear it. IMO you can RMA the board if you still want, you shouldn't have to clear the CMOS like that.


Yeah, I was wondering about how to clear the CMOS. There is no instructions in the manual.

So, when i had undervoltage during my voyage up to 4.8ghz I had my BIOS freeze a couple times and I couldnt use it long enough to give it more voltage, so I was forced to do a CMOS clear. BUT, didnt know how. I know that there is a button on the motherboard, but do you press it during the freeze or reboot and then press it or have the power off and then press it?
I tried pressing it during the freeze first and it cleared it ok, i think.


----------



## Kristof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> are the F11 bios for the Z77 UD3H any good??


Im using it and I dont see any issues with it so far. Although, I didnt have any issues with the older ones either...


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristof*
> 
> Yeah, I was wondering about how to clear the CMOS. There is no instructions in the manual.
> So, when i had undervoltage during my voyage up to 4.8ghz I had my BIOS freeze a couple times and I couldnt use it long enough to give it more voltage, so I was forced to do a CMOS clear. BUT, didnt know how. I know that there is a button on the motherboard, but do you press it during the freeze or reboot and then press it or have the power off and then press it?
> I tried pressing it during the freeze first and it cleared it ok, i think.


you can press the button when the system is off, but also when it is on you can press it if you really want, but ima recommend doing it when the system is off.


----------



## homestyle

I've always turned off the power supply on the back before clearing cmos.

Some mobos can only be cleared with that switch off.


----------



## peck1234

Woot! All done with my build. (Lent my buddy my video card for a bit as for now Im just using it for music) !!!


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> holy sweet mother of god
> i did that and the stupid mobo turned on XD
> i only have the mobo, ram, cpu without cooler outside of case, but it became alive, wow just wow,
> i need to put hyper212plus ASAP and test all, will come back
> thanks a lot


I had suggested that you do a cmos reset but was not very clear on how. Yeah, when things get that bad you should do a full cmos reset pretty much how you did it. I hate how Gigabyte has put the cmos battery under the gpu card but I guess they had to put it somewhere.

To add to the full cmos reset procedure you should have board out of case on cardboard or antistatic bag that came with board and everything disconnected except for power source. turn power source off at the power unit. pull cmos battery out and fip over and reinstall. while shorting the cmos jumper pins (see manual) hold down the power on switch on the mobo to discharge all the power in capacitors. I have seen varying amount of time to hold in this position but at least for a full minute or up to 5 min. flip battery back over and reinstall, and reconnect just the bare minimum devices (i.e., one stick of ram, OS drive, gpu, mouse, keyboard, monitor, power) while still out of case. fire back up and immediately go into bios and load optimized defaults, save and exit. Again, my apologies as I thought you knew all of this.

It is still a good idea that you are getting replaced because I think there is something wrong with your board. Good luck and now at least you have got a working system again.


----------



## 2therock

Looking at the white paint in the case has me wanting that. I like the black outside but the white inside makes for better visibility. Nice. Next time I do a MoBo pull or build I'll be painting the inside of the case white.


----------



## 2therock

I want to report I have ran the BETA F9c BIOS for 24 hours. I did notice some uncalled for reboots just before or during a sleep and the event viewer is loaded with warnings and errors including a controller error for my #5 storage drive.

After reverting back to F8 the event logs have been quiet. I'll not be trying another BETA BIOS.

Some samples.


Critical: The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
Error: The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Harddisk5\DR5.
WHEA-Logger: A corrected hardware error has occurred.
Reported by component: Processor Core
Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
Error Type: Internal parity error
Processor ID: 4

The details view of this entry contains further information.


----------



## peck1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Looking at the white paint in the case has me wanting that. I like the black outside but the white inside makes for better visibility. Nice. Next time I do a MoBo pull or build I'll be painting the inside of the case white.


Thanks ya I love it to, it's a NZXT H2 Case. Now if only I could get some white sata cables :


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you can press the button when the system is off, but also when it is on you can press it if you really want, but ima recommend doing it when the system is off.


ok cool. I am getting mines today or tomorrow so wanted to have everything up to date.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I had suggested that you do a cmos reset but was not very clear on how. Yeah, when things get that bad you should do a full cmos reset pretty much how you did it. I hate how Gigabyte has put the cmos battery under the gpu card but I guess they had to put it somewhere.
> To add to the full cmos reset procedure you should have board out of case on cardboard or antistatic bag that came with board and everything disconnected except for power source. turn power source off at the power unit. pull cmos battery out and fip over and reinstall. while shorting the cmos jumper pins (see manual) hold down the power on switch on the mobo to discharge all the power in capacitors. I have seen varying amount of time to hold in this position but at least for a full minute or up to 5 min. flip battery back over and reinstall, and reconnect just the bare minimum devices (i.e., one stick of ram, OS drive, gpu, mouse, keyboard, monitor, power) while still out of case. fire back up and immediately go into bios and load optimized defaults, save and exit. Again, my apologies as I thought you knew all of this.
> It is still a good idea that you are getting replaced because I think there is something wrong with your board. Good luck and now at least you have got a working system again.


yes, i had the mobo out of the case, unplugged everything but the cpu, unplugged power cords, had it 1 hour in the antistatic bag, push the clear cmos button like hundreds of times, flipped bios, clear cmos by jumper, nothing worked

until i did what sin said, cut the power, remove battery, i don´t know if i did the short in the right way, i just touched both battery connectors with a screwdriver while pressing some seconds the clearcmos buttton, then put the battery, power cord, and bymagic the power button on the board was lit, i pushed it and the board turned on, i quickly turned off since the cpu had no cooler

i rearmed the pc again, configured the bios, and everything is nice again, will torture the board just in case, what do you suggest? to put pressure on the board? tons of prime or anything else?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> I want to report I have ran the BETA F9c BIOS for 24 hours. I did notice some uncalled for reboots just before or during a sleep and the event viewer is loaded with warnings and errors including a controller error for my #5 storage drive.
> After reverting back to F8 the event logs have been quiet. I'll not be trying another BETA BIOS.
> Some samples.
> 
> Critical: The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
> Error: The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Harddisk5\DR5.
> WHEA-Logger: A corrected hardware error has occurred.
> Reported by component: Processor Core
> Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
> Error Type: Internal parity error
> Processor ID: 4
> The details view of this entry contains further information.


Yeah, no real reason to change BIOS unless you need to. I usually try all of them "just because" but after seeing problems with the F9c I decided not to this time. I'm still using F8 with no problems.
I'm about to put my other UD5H in a Switch pretty shortly. Got most of my water cooling parts and new 3770K in.









Shoot me an email and tell me about what you ended up with in your DRAM settings. I just put the Samsung back in my rig and pulled the Trident for the new build.


----------



## twitchyzero

Hi all,

I'm interested to build a UD5H-WB system with 3570K, GTX 670 FTW SLI and Samsung 30nm ram.

I would like to know if the following stable gaming OC (not for 24/7) is possible and realstic

3570K 4.8-5GHz using liquid cooling (eyeing the upcoming CM Eisberg 240mm)
30nm Ram 2400MHz no cooling
670 FTW SLI 1200-1300MHz stock cooling

Also, are there common bugs about this mobo I should know about? Any that have not been rectified yet by GB?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> 3570K 4.8-5GHz using liquid cooling (eyeing the upcoming CM Eisberg 240mm)


Ivy Bridge CPUs get VERY hot, and it is unlikely to get 5Ghz even on serious water cooling, unless you get very nice chip. Most people stay on 4.7-4.8Ghz with water cooling (from what I have seen so far). My chip won't stay stable at 4.6Ghz unless I push to much voltage.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm interested to build a UD5H-WB system with 3570K, GTX 670 FTW SLI and Samsung 30nm ram.
> I would like to know if the following stable gaming OC (not for 24/7) is possible and realstic
> 3570K 4.8-5GHz using liquid cooling (eyeing the upcoming CM Eisberg 240mm)
> 30nm Ram 2400MHz no cooling
> 670 FTW SLI 1200-1300MHz stock cooling
> Also, are there common bugs about this mobo I should know about? Any that have not been rectified yet by GB?


not 4.8-5 but 4.6-4.7 for sure.....


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm interested to build a UD5H-WB system with 3570K, GTX 670 FTW SLI and Samsung 30nm ram.
> I would like to know if the following stable gaming OC (not for 24/7) is possible and realstic
> 3570K 4.8-5GHz using liquid cooling (eyeing the upcoming CM Eisberg 240mm)
> 30nm Ram 2400MHz no cooling
> 670 FTW SLI 1200-1300MHz stock cooling
> Also, are there common bugs about this mobo I should know about? Any that have not been rectified yet by GB?


good luck on that CPU OC on any board, i highly doubt you can do that for 24/7.
the memory, this board maybe not 2400 possibly 2200 or 2133, not yet at least as the BIOS engineers need to look at it.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yeah, no real reason to change BIOS unless you need to. I usually try all of them "just because" but after seeing problems with the F9c I decided not to this time. I'm still using F8 with no problems.
> I'm about to put my other UD5H in a Switch pretty shortly. Got most of my water cooling parts and new 3770K in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shoot me an email and tell me about what you ended up with in your DRAM settings. I just put the Samsung back in my rig and pulled the Trident for the new build.


Your email keeps bouncing back,

So here, But 1st - Did you sneak in a bclk 100.1 setting in the profile you sent me?









I have been playing round with my RAM again and finally got it to pass IBT several times on High and Very High.
The RAM is supposed to be good @ 1.35 but did not go that low on the tweak. Lemme know.

1866 - 10-10-10-26 2T 1.45v.
Vtt was 1.050 in Auto so I took it out of Auto entering 1.050.
IMC was 0.925 in Auto and done the same entering 1.045.

I read in the OCN boards that an experienced clocker recommended the Vtt & IMC remain within .005 of each other. You guys tell me.

So I tried the above first in 1T and it failed. Then in 2T and it passed my tests, no prime95 runs yet. No WHEA warnings in Event viewer either.

AC


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Your email keeps bouncing back,
> So here, But 1st - Did you sneak in a bclk 100.1 setting in the profile you sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been playing round with my RAM again and finally got it to pass IBT several times on High and Very High.
> The RAM is supposed to be good @ 1.35 but did not go that low on the tweak. Lemme know.
> 1866 - 10-10-10-26 2T 1.45v.
> Vtt was 1.050 in Auto so I took it out of Auto entering 1.050.
> IMC was 0.925 in Auto and done the same entering 1.045.
> I read in the OCN boards that an experienced clocker recommended the Vtt & IMC remain within .005 of each other. You guys tell me.
> So I tried the above first in 1T and it failed. Then in 2T and it passed my tests, no prime95 runs yet. No WHEA warnings in Event viewer either.
> AC


Nooooo, I've never changed the block off 100.00.
All I changed was 1866 10-10-10-?? 1.5v 1TCR. I tried higher but it wouldn't boot, and I've been busy and didn't want to fool with it. I was running it at 2133 before but with 2600K cpu.


----------



## peck1234

My block is also at 100.1, (even tho its set at 100 in the bios)

Is there any hope of getting 4.0Ghz on my processor/mobo config guys? It seems I dont have any voltage options?


----------



## Conners

May be your CPU doesn't allow those changes.


----------



## Conners

What cha trying to do rock? Memory, CPU what? I not going to go through 207 pages to find out though.


----------



## Sin0822

yea his board doesn't allow voltage change, it uses a different PWM than the others.

Um set 40x it should work fine, you can prob do 42x.


----------



## arrow0309

When it will become available on the market the Gigabyte's newer series UPx TH?
Is it for example the UP5 TH gonna cost more than the UD5H?








Will there any be versions without the Thunderbolt interface?

What do you think about UP5's newer vrm?


----------



## Sin0822

i believe there might be. As for now the boards are still in development stages, with the UP4 and Up5 coming before the UP7. Possibly very soon they might come out, and I do think there will be non thunderbolt versions, but probably not for all models. The new boards will cost more than the old boards, that is how it works. Thunderbolt isn't a cheap add-on, infact it is one of the most expensive. Thunderbolt requires a controller, it requires its own PCI-E 2.0 PLX bridge to add additional lanes, it requires its own VRM as well.


----------



## arrow0309

I like the new look of the UP5 TH











It seems to have two sata ports less though, maybe the final version will be different


----------



## isidore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> if you still have the issue, update your backup BIOS. If GB adds a feature to the main, and the main and backup have some discrepancy then that error might come up.


The mobo did it again, stupid db error. I updated the backup bios to F7 also now. If i get another db error i'll RMA it. **** this ****.


----------



## sixor

wow, i just noticed on cpuz my vcore is 1.27 even on total iddle

what the hell? i love energy saving options

i read some answer to this on page 68, but did not understand very well

i have [email protected]@turbo llc


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Folks, is it possible to use the integrated graphic capability of say an i5-3570 and a Gigabyte Z77x UD5H to drive two independent monitors one in landscape (24" 1920x1200 via Displayport) and one in portrait mode (17" 1024x1280 via DVI)?
I am totally new to multimonitor setups and I am looking for a mobo that will let me do that with the integrated graphics only.
I must add that my question stems from the fact that I've read that sometimes with IGs monitor resolution must be the same (at least 'sidewise').


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> wow, i just noticed on cpuz my vcore is 1.27 even on total iddle
> what the hell? i love energy saving options
> i read some answer to this on page 68, but did not understand very well
> i have [email protected]@turbo llc


Do you have the power saving turned off on mobo? for example EIST.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Do you have the power saving turned off on mobo? for example EIST.


all of the bios power options are on auto, i guess they are enabled since speed will go to 1600 on iddle

on the other hand, coretemps shows variable vcores on iddle/load, but zpuz shows stable 1.27


----------



## stasio

Core Temp show VID ,not Vcore.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isidore*
> 
> The mobo did it again, stupid db error. I updated the backup bios to F7 also now. If i get another db error i'll RMA it. **** this ****.


RMA your board please.

Sixor-you have to set DVID + offset for your voltage to drop during idle.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

I followed that advice about taking the board out and putting it on the box. On a whim, I used my old power switch to trigger the board to turn on.

It worked! I am not sure what to do with the new switch I bought from Mountain Mods - their instructions were atrocious - nothing but a single small piece of paper with a circle indicating the switch, and the pins numbered 1 - 4 with a + and - in the middle - no explanation of how to actually wire the thing up. There's a dark line between 1 and 3 (top left to right bottom) and a dotted line between 2 and 4 (bottom left to right top)

I assume the + and - drive the LED backlight...

Anyway, it was shorting out my board, and it corrupted the bios. The board repaired itself and is working now.

When I bought the switch, it didn't even come with a wire - I had to buy that separately...

Since I really still have no idea how the heck to wire that thing up, I am just using my old switch. That's one of the things I really don't like about Mountain Mods. I get the impression they figure everyone is an electrical engineer. Heck, even my co-worker who does a lot of this kind of thing couldn't make heads or tails out of the diagram, so what chance did I have?

At least I was able to figure out how to put my case together, even though it didn't come with instructions either. I figured it out by looking at the picture on their site.

Anyway - I plan to finish all of this up this weekend. Thanks for your help!


----------



## Sin0822

Glad to hear you got it fixed









can you take a picture? BTW you know the motherboard has its own power switch, correct?


----------



## 2therock

What is a db error?


----------



## Sin0822

do you have a db error?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Core Temp show VID ,not Vcore.


ok thanks

so should i mess with those bios options to lower vcore on idlle

is not bad to have always that vcore even on iddle? 24/7


----------



## Velathawen

Hey guys, just picked up a UD5H WB to pair with my dad's 2500K. Everything works fine and holy crap the boot up is fast. I'm wondering if this is a case of "if it ain't broke don't fix it" or if I should update to the latest bios?


----------



## drotaru

hows the new F9C bios holding up for overcloking ? anybody tried it yet ? ( for the UD5H )


----------



## barkeater

Velathawen,

If you are not having any problems then there is no reason


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Glad to hear you got it fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you take a picture? BTW you know the motherboard has its own power switch, correct?


I will take a picture - and yes I knew it had a power switch - but I am glad I tested it because even if I RMAed the board I would've had the same issue with the new one.

OH FFS. I just looked at the switch itself again... it's a Latching switch, not a momentary switch.

DUH. That's why! They put the little disclaimer at the very bottom of the description and I didn't even see it till now. I think someone needs to really go over the product pages over there and make them clearer. Maybe BOLD that text or something to make it more noticable. Jeez! Web designers, they are not.

I wanted red, so I picked this one...
http://www.mountainmods.com/illuminated-antivandal-switch-redblack-latching-p-687.html

My husband has been super anal about anything other than red lights - apparently the blue spectrum causes all kinds of health problems - cancer, etc. If I have anything other than a red LED anywhere, he immediately puts black electrical tape over it. (sigh)... the things I deal with.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

What is PCH temp and what is the normal range of temperatures to expect there?


----------



## tfouto

I think those Gigabyte motherboards have really high pch temperatures... Mine vary from 55 to 65... (UD5h)

I guess that's the reason why the fan4 is always at 100%. It helps to cool down some degrees of the pch. Right now the cpu is cooler component compared with pch and motherbard. At least in my case.

I think Asus boards have better (cooler) pch temperatures...


----------



## Cobalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> My husband has been super anal about anything other than red lights - apparently the blue spectrum causes all kinds of health problems - cancer, etc. If I have anything other than a red LED anywhere, he immediately puts black electrical tape over it. (sigh)... the things I deal with.


Lol blue light certainly does *not* cause cancer. Yes, blue light has higher energy than red light but its only when you get into ultra violet rays that you even have to consider it's energy. Basically no visible light is going to cause cancer. More so, if anything blue light is better for you than red light because blue light is calming whereas red light induces a sense of being rushed and sometimes stress.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drotaru*
> 
> hows the new F9C bios holding up for overcloking ? anybody tried it yet ? ( for the UD5H )


nah its no good, try F9a instead. F9c has vcore messed up, it wont change lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Hey guys, just picked up a UD5H WB to pair with my dad's 2500K. Everything works fine and holy crap the boot up is fast. I'm wondering if this is a case of "if it ain't broke don't fix it" or if I should update to the latest bios?


never update your BIOS unless it is needed, and it isn't. I bet it shipped with F7 correct? That is the new BIOS all boards should ship with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> What is PCH temp and what is the normal range of temperatures to expect there?


its fine, under 80C is fine. It runs hotter than the Z68 PCH, because of the USb 3.0 controller. It doesn't affect performance either.


----------



## Snakes

I've just run into a USB issue with my UD5H. I bought a USB 3.0 external drive and have found that one of the front USB 3.0 ports on my case doesn't recognize the external HDD properly. The first time I plugged the drive into that port Windows told me that the device is capable of operating faster, and then I was able to copy a file to it successfully at USB 2.0 speed. Every additional time I've tried to connect it to that port Windows reports that the drive must be formatted before being used. The drive works fine at USB 3.0 speed on my other front port and the back ports. I have ruled out the case ports and cables, it's gotta be the internal bracket that came with my Gigabyte board or the motherboard header. I'm using the F_USB30_2 header, I plugged the bracket which comes with the board into that header and then the USB 3.0 cables from my case are going into the two ports on that bracket. Because the drive works properly on other ports I'm assuming it's not a driver issue. My next troubleshooting step is probably to try plugging into a different internal USB header. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing my problem?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I've just run into a USB issue with my UD5H. I bought a USB 3.0 external drive and have found that one of the front USB 3.0 ports on my case doesn't recognize the external HDD properly. The first time I plugged the drive into that port Windows told me that the device is capable of operating faster, and then I was able to copy a file to it successfully at USB 2.0 speed. Every additional time I've tried to connect it to that port Windows reports that the drive must be formatted before being used. The drive works fine at USB 3.0 speed on my other front port and the back ports. I have ruled out the case ports and cables, it's gotta be the internal bracket that came with my Gigabyte board or the motherboard header. I'm using the F_USB30_2 header, I plugged the bracket which comes with the board into that header and then the USB 3.0 cables from my case are going into the two ports on that bracket. Does anyone know what my problem could be? My next troubleshooting step is probably to try plugging into a different internal USB header.


that would be the logical option, I have used the front panel and my external USB 3.0 thingy, it seems to work okay. If you reinstall drivers what happens? IMo just use the other port.


----------



## Snakes

Yeah I can use the other port, but I'd like to track down this problem and solve it if possible. Now that I think about it I may not have ruled out the case ports and cables. What I did was swap the case's cables between the two ports on the bracket and the same front port still didn't work. I guess that rules out the bracket? That might rule out the header too. Going to try a different header.


----------



## Sin0822

try a different header, if the same issue persists it could be the cable, it would also be the header on the board. USB 3.0 is extremely finiky, that is one reason thunderbolt is being added, as USB 3.0 has major limitations with cables. For instance even angling the connector 90 degrees for USb 3.0 requires a certified connector, because of the signaling issues, that is also why the controllers and the ports have to be so close to the PCH or the controller being used, and why the hubs are places so close to the ports, they do much than just divide up the USB 3.0, they also help amplify the signal, that is why the native ports are always those closest to the PCH.

Also BTW, with Windows 8 the GB Z77 boards should get that USb over SCSI protocol upgrade boost, as it is built into W8.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobalt*
> 
> Lol blue light certainly does *not* cause cancer. Yes, blue light has higher energy than red light but its only when you get into ultra violet rays that you even have to consider it's energy. Basically no visible light is going to cause cancer. More so, if anything blue light is better for you than red light because blue light is calming whereas red light induces a sense of being rushed and sometimes stress.


LOL according to the articles he's read, blue light is great - during the day. At night, it disrupts the sleep cycle and causes all kinds of other health issues. So I guess the underlying cause here is lack of sleep, but is apparently directly related to the blue spectrum.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> LOL according to the articles he's read, blue light is great - during the day. At night, it disrupts the sleep cycle and causes all kinds of other health issues. So I guess the underlying cause here is lack of sleep, but is apparently directly related to the blue spectrum.


RGB way to go


----------



## Sin0822

hahaha we are talking about blue light causing cancer now lol.


----------



## BobLeProf

I've had lots of USB 3.0 trouble. When it works, it's great, but 3 different PCIe USB 3.0 cards on other systems I have work not at all or intermittently. USB 3.0 on my old P55A-UD4P always works. On my UD5H, the F_USB30_2 & F_USB30_3 headers both work fine with the GB front bracket and with my front case ports. The F_USB30_1 header has been flaky (Corsair flash voyager GT is not recognized on first insertion after boot but then works fine after that - all under Windows 8 with its built-in USB 3.0 drivers). So I learned that when a device doesn't work in a USB 3.0 port, that doesn't necessarily mean it won't work the next time I plug it into thew same port.

If I understand, your bracket is plugged into F_USB30_2, then the two front USB ports are cabled into the two ports on the bracket. When you switch the two front case port cables, it is always the same front port that is not working, but the other always works? In that case (no pun intended), I would assume that the problem is in the front case port or its cable. I would also check by plugging the USB 3.0 device directly into each of the two ports on the GB bracket to make sure the problem lies after the GB bracket, and so also after the MB header.

I bought a rear USB 3.0 bracket for $8 (free shipping):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSI-two-USB-3-0-Female-Mount-panel-to-Motherboard-20pin-cable-with-PCI-bracket-/140742062032?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item20c4e16fd0#ht_4010wt_718
It works fine and the price is right. It gave me more ports to switch around when troubleshooting to rule out parts of the hardware. My external USB 3.0 backup drive is on one of my rear ports, all of which have always worked fine.


----------



## Snakes

That's a good idea, plugging the drive directly into the Gigabyte bracket. Yeah, the way you described my situation is accurate. I'm starting to suspect the case, but I haven't done any further testing yet since my first post. Thanks for the ideas.


----------



## 2therock

Cmon, what is a db error?


----------



## DoktorCreepy

Is the VTT bug gone on Z77?

I want to get a Z77 UP5-TH for my second system when they come out.


----------



## EvgeniX

looks like Z77 have a lot of problems....which can be fixed with BIOS update.... but its taking too long....


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Cmon, what is a db error?


what bios you on? I had db couple of time when went from F9c to F9a....


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorCreepy*
> 
> Is the VTT bug gone on Z77?
> I want to get a Z77 UD5-TH for my second system when they come out.


what bug?


----------



## Sin0822

yea what bug?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> looks like Z77 have a lot of problems....which can be fixed with BIOS update.... but its taking too long....


what problems do you have?


----------



## DoktorCreepy

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?279931-Gigabyte-Z77X-D3H/page2


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorCreepy*
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?279931-Gigabyte-Z77X-D3H/page2


thins one looks fixed!


----------



## Sin0822

I will check it tomorrow, but if you just set the voltages 0.005v of each other, IMC below VTT then you shouldn't' have an issue. There is a hardware thing where the IMC voltage is derived from the VTT voltage, and thus there is a range in which you can separate their settings. something like 0.01 to 0.005v, I just use 0.005.


----------



## DoktorCreepy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I will check it tomorrow, but if you just set the voltages 0.005v of each other, IMC below VTT then you shouldn't' have an issue. There is a hardware thing where the IMC voltage is derived from the VTT voltage, and thus there is a range in which you can separate their settings. something like 0.01 to 0.005v, I just use 0.005.


Excellent.


----------



## Snakes

I plugged the external drive directly into the Gigabyte front panel bracket ports and everything worked great, right away. Plugged the case's front panel cables back into the Gigabyte bracket and now both ports are telling me the drive must be formatted before it can be used. So now they're both useless but at least there's nothing wrong with my motherboard.

Update, I looked on Corsair forums and found out that the front panel is a USB hub so apparently drivers can affect it. I thought I had all the right USB drivers but I knew for sure I had the intel 3.0 driver so I plugged the front panel into USB30_1 internal header and now both front ports seem to work fine. I guess the lower two USB 3.0 headers (VIA?) need their own driver and not the Intel driver from the Gigabyte website? I only need the one header one so I'm all set for now.

I found the driver for the VIA VL810 hubs on VIA's website but I'm not gonna install it since I don't need them right now.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Still getting lockups about once every 12 hours of gaming.

I have tried the BCLK "fix"
I have tried raising my VTT to 1.10 as i have 16gb Samsung green ram and setting my Ram voltage to 1.55.

I installed the latest BIOS F9C as Gigabyte support suggested me to do last night.

I have read people saying that uninstalling the USB 3.0 drivers helped with freezes so i will try that if the system has the screech of death lockup again.

If it bluescreened at least i may have an idea as to what to troubleshoot, but there are no entries in Event viewer.

Does anyone else get random freezes while gaming or have any suggestions i could try guys?

Cheers


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> never update your BIOS unless it is needed, and it isn't. I bet it shipped with F7 correct? That is the new BIOS all boards should ship with.


Actually it shipped with F4 but seeing as everything is working fine I am not going to touch it just yet!


----------



## irfy

Still got issue when starting PC. Shuts down 4 times then powers up n boots like nothing happend. There is still bug or bugs with this mobo thats for sure. Gigabyte need to do something quick. I need to know if the issues are fixable with a bios update or not. Currently on F8 still get random issue. VTT bug???


----------



## Yor_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Still getting lockups about once every 12 hours of gaming.
> I have tried the BCLK "fix"
> I have tried raising my VTT to 1.10 as i have 16gb Samsung green ram and setting my Ram voltage to 1.55.
> I installed the latest BIOS F9C as Gigabyte support suggested me to do last night.
> I have read people saying that uninstalling the USB 3.0 drivers helped with freezes so i will try that if the system has the screech of death lockup again.
> If it bluescreened at least i may have an idea as to what to troubleshoot, but there are no entries in Event viewer.
> Does anyone else get random freezes while gaming or have any suggestions i could try guys?
> Cheers


I had lockups too. Once I removed from my system a firewire audio interface I was using, the freezes stopped. Try removing the X-Fi from your system and use the onboard sound for a while and see how it goes.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> I had lockups too. Once I removed from my system a firewire audio interface I was using, the freezes stopped. Try removing the X-Fi from your system and use the onboard sound for a while and see how it goes.


I will try that Yor. Thank you!


----------



## TechieGeek2012

FYI ... http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/02/19/AR2008021902398.html


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Still getting lockups about once every 12 hours of gaming.
> I have tried the BCLK "fix"
> I have tried raising my VTT to 1.10 as i have 16gb Samsung green ram and setting my Ram voltage to 1.55.
> I installed the latest BIOS F9C as Gigabyte support suggested me to do last night.
> I have read people saying that uninstalling the USB 3.0 drivers helped with freezes so i will try that if the system has the screech of death lockup again.
> If it bluescreened at least i may have an idea as to what to troubleshoot, but there are no entries in Event viewer.
> Does anyone else get random freezes while gaming or have any suggestions i could try guys?
> Cheers


Do not use F9C it's broken!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> nah its no good, try F9a instead. F9c has vcore messed up, it wont change lol.


----------



## Ali Man

So I had a question guys, how good would Ultra Durable 5 (UP Series) with the newer IR3550 mosfets be in overclocking as compared to the our UD5H's?
I wanted the best, but just as I heard on Computex 2012 about these newer Z77 mobo's, I felt sad. Any comments?


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> Do not use F9C it's broken!!!!


I thought it was only broken if one was overclocking?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> I thought it was only broken if one was overclocking?


I do not know for sure but for me it did not work on all defaults too...


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> I do not know for sure but for me it did not work on all defaults too...


Thanks for the heads-up! I am now back on F8


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> So I had a question guys, how good would Ultra Durable 5 (UP Series) with the newer IR3550 mosfets be in overclocking as compared to the our UD5H's?
> I wanted the best, but just as I heard on Computex 2012 about these newer Z77 mobo's, I felt sad. Any comments?


We don't know yet.
It seems the new vrm has less cpu phases but uses these new mosfets DrMos like, they'll probably oc the same








I like the new look of the UP boards but they will surely cost much more.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I plugged the external drive directly into the Gigabyte front panel bracket ports and everything worked great, right away. Plugged the case's front panel cables back into the Gigabyte bracket and now both ports are telling me the drive must be formatted before it can be used. So now they're both useless but at least there's nothing wrong with my motherboard.
> Update, I looked on Corsair forums and found out that the front panel is a USB hub so apparently drivers can affect it. I thought I had all the right USB drivers but I knew for sure I had the intel 3.0 driver so I plugged the front panel into USB30_1 internal header and now both front ports seem to work fine. I guess the lower two USB 3.0 headers (VIA?) need their own driver and not the Intel driver from the Gigabyte website? I only need the one header one so I'm all set for now.
> I found the driver for the VIA VL810 hubs on VIA's website but I'm not gonna install it since I don't need them right now.


hey so can I ask why you just don't use the GB ports? So it isn't the motherboard or the GB bracket, it is your case's I/O?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Still getting lockups about once every 12 hours of gaming.
> I have tried the BCLK "fix"
> I have tried raising my VTT to 1.10 as i have 16gb Samsung green ram and setting my Ram voltage to 1.55.
> I installed the latest BIOS F9C as Gigabyte support suggested me to do last night.
> I have read people saying that uninstalling the USB 3.0 drivers helped with freezes so i will try that if the system has the screech of death lockup again.
> If it bluescreened at least i may have an idea as to what to troubleshoot, but there are no entries in Event viewer.
> Does anyone else get random freezes while gaming or have any suggestions i could try guys?
> Cheers


Try what Yor_ said.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfy*
> 
> Still got issue when starting PC. Shuts down 4 times then powers up n boots like nothing happend. There is still bug or bugs with this mobo thats for sure. Gigabyte need to do something quick. I need to know if the issues are fixable with a bios update or not. Currently on F8 still get random issue. VTT bug???


You are no help unless you can lit your system specs, all of them. I mean are you using a Z77MX-D3H or a UD5h? What CPU? What memory?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> So I had a question guys, how good would Ultra Durable 5 (UP Series) with the newer IR3550 mosfets be in overclocking as compared to the our UD5H's?
> I wanted the best, but just as I heard on Computex 2012 about these newer Z77 mobo's, I felt sad. Any comments?


No the OC would be the same







I can tell you from experience that the OC should be no different. VRMs already are overkill. Perhaps VRm might be more efficient or cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> We don't know yet.
> It seems the new vrm has less cpu phases but uses these new mosfets DrMos like, they'll probably oc the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the new look of the UP boards but they will surely cost much more.


this


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> hey so can I ask why you just don't use the GB ports? So it isn't the motherboard or the GB bracket, it is your case's I/O?


One reason I don't use the GIgabyte bracket is my case doesn't have a 3.5" bay opening in front. I suspect the problem was Windows is using generic drivers for the VIA USB 3.0 controllers and somehow that caused insufficient power to the front panel which is a hub and not just ports and wires. I don't fully understand it but I read something along those lines on Corsair forums. As soon as I plugged everything into the Intel header it all worked fine. The external HDD I was trying to use is powered by the USB port and maybe that had something to do with it, I'm not sure.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> hahaha we are talking about blue light causing cancer now lol.


I give you credit, Sin. This thread has taken a dive for the worse. I wouldn't have the patience for any of this my man. GL.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> FYI ... http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/02/19/AR2008021902398.html


Maybe I should quit staying up all night and sleeping til noon.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I give you credit, Sin. This thread has taken a dive for the worse. I wouldn't have the patience for any of this my man. GL.


thanks, nah it isn't that bad. it is just hard for me to go through and figure out what really is a problem and what is just user error, because I am finding more than half the time it is user error.

Currently the biggest issues are:
CPU PLL OV always being on, which is an issue for Sandy bridge users. (I am told this should be fixed very soon, maybe in a beta BIOS next week or so) .
BIOS F8 and F9C not being very good
Some specific hardware incompatibilities with a Focusrite Saffire pro 14(i remembered you Yor) and I think a legacy XF-I audio card.
Some USB hub surge notifications, which is just a software glitch.

compared to a short while ago, a lot of the older problems have been fixed. The only recent BSODs I hear of now are from the hardware incompatibilities like Yors, where if he puts in the 1394a card it causes huge spikes in DPC which causes things to crash, i know first hand if I have high DPC latency while i play BFBC2 my system will crash too. Infact I figured out easytune6 was causing high DPC latency spikes because of my BFBC2 crashing back a while ago.

I have come to the conclusion that BIOS F7 or F8D are the best two BIOSes for the UD5H ATM.


----------



## Yor_

Wow thanks Sin...but I actually ended buying another audio interface, this time a USB 2.0 based one...I'm tired of firewire. It was never an awesome technology...faster than USB 2.0, but more problematic, compatibility issues are very common. Honestly, I didn't want to get rid of my Gigabyte board, they've always been awesome to me. Hopefully the remaining bugs can be fixed because the UD5H is an excellent board, really.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Some specific hardware incompatibilities with a Focusrite Saffire pro 14(i remembered you Yor) and I think a legacy XF-I audio card.
> .


So you think Sin / Yor that the board may have an issue with my old 2007/2008 X-fi.

It certainly could be why i am having the looping sound hardlock.

I will try the onboard x-fi if it happens again and report back.


----------



## grizindabox

Thank you Gigabyte. Just fired up the system and all is great. I give Gigabyte the props they deserve.


----------



## Ali Man

@Sin, Thanks for the reply. Alright I'll take your word for it, but they also provide 60A to the cpu socket, is it also the same with the UD5H's?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> So you think Sin / Yor that the board may have an issue with my old 2007/2008 X-fi.
> It certainly could be why i am having the looping sound hardlock.
> I will try the onboard x-fi if it happens again and report back.


you guys are welcome. hey if you can give me the exact model number of the card perhaps GB has it and can try it. i know one issue with Yor's audio device is that they didn't have one lol.
BTW Krysaenaar try this: http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/DPC-Latency-Checker.shtml


----------



## -Ste-

just a quick question is there anything in the bios where i can set my top and rear exhaust fan to max the rear fan is only at 800rpm and would like to set it to max


----------



## Mabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Currently the biggest issues are:
> CPU PLL OV always being on, which is an issue for Sandy bridge users. (I am told this should be fixed very soon, maybe in a beta BIOS next week or so) .
> BIOS F8 and F9C not being very good
> Some specific hardware incompatibilities with a Focusrite Saffire pro 14(i remembered you Yor) and I think a legacy XF-I audio card.
> Some USB hub surge notifications, which is just a software glitch.


May I add my own issue with this board?








For the past month I've been exchanging mails with GGTS because of the following:

The GA-Z77X-UD5H doesn't detect my two LSI Megaraid controllers. I have a LSI Megaraid 8204elp (PCI-E x4) and a LSI Megaraid 9260-8i (PCI-E x8) that are not detected by BIOS POST.
I tried all the beta BIOS there is and still are not detected the way they should.

The weird thing is they are only detected when I remove my PCI-E Graphic card. If I remove the PEG card and use the integrated graphic the cards are detected.
My older LSI 8204elp is only detected on first x16 PCI-E slot.
The newer LSI 9260-8i is detected on both the first and second PCI-E slots.

BUT WITHOUT PEG ?!?

The Gigabyte support are trying to help but in the last reply they said they tested with two Adaptec raid controllers... this may be the case they don't have LSI cards to test with...

Any thoughts?


----------



## grizindabox

Dang, I can not get the board to backup BIOS...any help?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> just a quick question is there anything in the bios where i can set my top and rear exhaust fan to max the rear fan is only at 800rpm and would like to set it to max


disable system fan SMART control, in the BIOS under PC health, go there and under CPU fan SMART you will see for system fans, just disable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mabs*
> 
> May I add my own issue with this board?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the past month I've been exchanging mails with GGTS because of the following:
> The GA-Z77X-UD5H doesn't detect my two LSI Megaraid controllers. I have a LSI Megaraid 8204elp (PCI-E x4) and a LSI Megaraid 9260-8i (PCI-E x8) that are not detected by BIOS POST.
> I tried all the beta BIOS there is and still are not detected the way they should.
> The weird thing is they are only detected when I remove my PCI-E Graphic card. If I remove the PEG card and use the integrated graphic the cards are detected.
> My older LSI 8204elp is only detected on first x16 PCI-E slot.
> The newer LSI 9260-8i is detected on both the first and second PCI-E slots.
> BUT WITHOUT PEG ?!?
> The Gigabyte support are trying to help but in the last reply they said they tested with two Adaptec raid controllers... this may be the case they don't have LSI cards to test with...
> Any thoughts?


Yea same thing, if they don't have the hardware they cannot test, but here is what I am thinking. The 4x slot is using bandwidth off the PCI-E controller in the CPU, so it might be that there isn't enough bandwidth, you only have 16x lanes. How many lanes does each card use? What happens if you take out the VGA and put it back in after they are detected? Are they detected in windows?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Dang, I can not get the board to backup BIOS...any help?


what do you mean? There is a switch on the board if you have a UD3H, UD5H, or Sniper 3.


----------



## Mabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Yea same thing, if they don't have the hardware they cannot test, but here is what I am thinking. The 4x slot is using bandwidth off the PCI-E controller in the CPU, so it might be that there isn't enough bandwidth, you only have 16x lanes. How many lanes does each card use? What happens if you take out the VGA and put it back in after they are detected? Are they detected in windows?


Older card --> LSI Megaraid 8204elp --> 4x
Newer card --> LSI Megaraid 9260-8i -->8x

I only want to use one of them, not both at the same time. The setup I would like to use is GFX on first x16 slot and 9260-8i on second slot.

Taking out the VGA makes the LSI card detectable by BIOS. Windows is not an issue. its not a driver problem or anything software related.
The raid controllers need to load parallel to BIOS their own boot code, their own card BIOS. Once they load, there is no problem with Windows.

When the VGA is put back in, the Raid cards are again not detected and therefor unusable. Its a pity if Gigabyte doesn't have LSI cards to test this.
Maybe someone from LSI reads this and provides some product samples to them. That could improve mutual compatibility.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mabs*
> 
> Older card --> LSI Megaraid 8204elp --> 4x
> Newer card --> LSI Megaraid 9260-8i -->8x
> I only want to use one of them, not both at the same time. The setup I would like to use is GFX on first x16 slot and 9260-8i on second slot.
> Taking out the VGA makes the LSI card detectable by BIOS. Windows is not an issue. its not a driver problem or anything software related.
> The raid controllers need to load parallel to BIOS their own boot code, their own card BIOS. Once they load, there is no problem with Windows.
> When the VGA is put back in, the Raid cards are again not detected and therefor unusable. Its a pity if Gigabyte doesn't have LSI cards to test this.
> Maybe someone from LSI reads this and provides some product samples to them. That could improve mutual compatibility.


you can't use both of them at the same time with your VGA card, only 1 there isn't enough bandwidth. The newer card needs to be in the second PCI-E slot, and the old card can be in either, but you can only use 1 card at a time as there isn't enough bandwidth. You can't run your GPU at 4x in the first slot. Youc an do the math, 16x or 8x, and then 8x and 4x would give you 20X lanes if your main GPU runs at 8x lol. Right? 8X+8X+4X=20X, 16x+8X+4X=28X.

IMO perhaps the Z77X-UD3H is a MUCH better choice for you. As the UD3H has its last slot wired to the PCH for 4x instead of the CPU like the UD5H. The UD5H is wired to the CPu to provide 3-way crossfirex, just like the maximus 5 Formula.


----------



## Mabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> The UD5H is wired to the CPu to provide 3-way crossfirex, just like the maximus 5 Formula.


If 3-way crossfire is used, how are they running? 8+4+4 ?
My setup doesn't use the third slot. I just want to use one raid card.
I have two Raid cards because I thought that not being detected was the raid card's fault. And bought another one thinking the motherboard was OK and the older raid faulty.
It wasn't !!!
Both cards are indeed being detected when I try them separately. So the cards are ok. The problem is that I have to take out the PCI-E VGA to make them work.
The older UD5H BIOS never detected the raid cards, with or without VGA. So there is improvement.

The sad story is that the end user, the consumer is being used as guinea pigs, as beta testers. We are buying a product that is not already finished. Its a work in progress...
The good part is that they have a good client support. They are really trying...


----------



## grizindabox

Sin, I have the UD5H, and I know there is a switch, but when I attempt to use the backup it says it can not find the mbr and will not boot. Tried to copy my other bios to the backup, and can not get it to work.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mabs*
> 
> If 3-way crossfire is used, how are they running? 8+4+4 ?
> My setup doesn't use the third slot. I just want to use one raid card.
> I have two Raid cards because I thought that not being detected was the raid card's fault. And bought another one thinking the motherboard was OK and the older raid faulty.
> It wasn't !!!
> *Both cards are indeed being detected when I try them separately.* So the cards are ok. The problem is that I have to take out the PCI-E VGA to make them work.
> The older UD5H BIOS never detected the raid cards, with or without VGA. So there is improvement.
> The sad story is that the end user, the consumer is being used as guinea pigs, as beta testers. We are buying a product that is not already finished. Its a work in progress...
> The good part is that they have a good client support. They are really trying...


What I bolded, so if you put in your GPu and one of the RAID cards, it works? There is no physical way you can use both of them at the same time, and that isn't the boards fault, it is Intel's fault for only providing 16x PCI-E lanes.

Here let me elaborate with a picture from one of my reviews:

Yes Crossfire can be run at 8x/4x/4x. But SLi cannot, it requires 8X per slot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Sin, I have the UD5H, and I know there is a switch, but when I attempt to use the backup it says it can not find the mbr and will not boot. Tried to copy my other bios to the backup, and can not get it to work.


What do you mean it doesn't work? So you switch the switch and you attempt to flash it through qflash and it doesn't work?


----------



## grizindabox

Is there a setting necessary for UD5H to recognize a SSD? My backup bios will not find the SSD which has the operating system.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Is there a setting necessary for UD5H to recognize a SSD? My backup bios will not find the SSD which has the operating system.


change boot priority....


----------



## grizindabox

It does not offer the drive when setting up boot priority.


----------



## Snakes

There's a section called Hard Drive BBS Priorities under BIOS Features screen. Check under there whether SSD is selected. Once you select it there, it should appear as an option in Boot Option Priorities. I had the same thing happen to me.


----------



## grizindabox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> There's a section called Hard Drive BBS Priorities under BIOS Features screen. Check under there whether SSD is selected. Once you select it there, it should appear as an option in Boot Option Priorities. I had the same thing happen to me.


Thanks Snakes, exactly what I was looking for.


----------



## Sin0822

great find snakes! +rep


----------



## Snakes

Finally got a chance to give back to this thread.


----------



## derick

hi guys,

i recently got the gigabyte z77-ud3h along with a i5-3570k CPU, and was wondering if there's anyone who can instruct me on how to oc it to around 4-4.3 ghz,

only problem is im very new to overclocking and feel uncomfortable trying anything without damaging components, is there an easy manner of oc'ing the cup for very dumb dummies lol??

i tried using gigabytes easy-tune 6 application and it works great however it reverts back to default clock speeds, when i restart my computer is this normal? i mean only sometimes not always ... sometimes it stays at the desired oc but then other times it reverts back to original state ...

plz help

thank you in advance


----------



## derick

also came across a few guids on how to accomplish this but again i cant stress, how difficult it is for me to understand the guides

derick


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizindabox*
> 
> Dang, I can not get the board to backup BIOS...any help?


I've not been able to either. You could always shut it off, flip the switch, load the BIOS. One of my boards still has F4 as backup, the other one I don't know since when Gigabyte repaired/replaced it, it came back with F7 as primary, never flipped the switch to check it.
But anyway I'm thinking the USB isn't initializing in time to catch the Alt + F10 before hitting the splash screen.
But, both of my UD5H boards have been solid. The only REAL problem I have is my printer won't work off the rear USB 3.0 ports. I use the 2 rear USB 2.0 ports for my wireless mouse/kb and Kodak printer.


----------



## coolhandluke41

forget "Alt + F10"..just flash through bios and get it over with


----------



## s4e8

How about set PCI-E mode to PCI-E 2.0 only?
I test all three slot and work fine:
1st slot: dGPU at PCIE-2.0 16x card at 8x.
2nd slot: highpoint RAID PCIE-2.0 8x card at 4x
3rd slot SiI 3132 SATA card PCIE-1.0 1x


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you guys are welcome. hey if you can give me the exact model number of the card perhaps GB has it and can try it. i know one issue with Yor's audio device is that they didn't have one lol.
> BTW Krysaenaar try this: http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/DPC-Latency-Checker.shtml


Thanks Sin,

The sound card is the Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Fatal1ty PCI

By the way i am using the PAX drivers for it and not the Creative. I am not sure if that makes a difference

here is a link to a review with a picture as not to confuse it with the more modern cards:

http://www.techspot.com/reviews/hardware/soundblaster_xfi/


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derick*
> 
> hi guys,
> i recently got the gigabyte z77-ud3h along with a i5-3570k CPU, and was wondering if there's anyone who can instruct me on how to oc it to around 4-4.3 ghz,
> only problem is im very new to overclocking and feel uncomfortable trying anything without damaging components, is there an easy manner of oc'ing the cup for very dumb dummies lol??
> i tried using gigabytes easy-tune 6 application and it works great however it reverts back to default clock speeds, when i restart my computer is this normal? i mean only sometimes not always ... sometimes it stays at the desired oc but then other times it reverts back to original state ...
> plz help
> thank you in advance


there are many guides you could read

but it is really easy, put multi in 43x (4300mhz), put vcore at 1.25, try prime95, if it does not crash, then lower a little the vcore until it crashes, then go a little up

temps should be less than 80


----------



## irfy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> hey so can I ask why you just don't use the GB ports? So it isn't the motherboard or the GB bracket, it is your case's I/O?
> Try what Yor_ said.
> You are no help unless you can lit your system specs, all of them. I mean are you using a Z77MX-D3H or a UD5h? What CPU? What memory?
> No the OC would be the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can tell you from experience that the OC should be no different. VRMs already are overkill. Perhaps VRm might be more efficient or cooler.
> this


Z77x-UD5 (F8 bios)
i7 2600K @ 4.8GHz
OCZ ZT750 Watt PSU
16GB samsung green 1866 9 9 9 27 1T 1.45v
ocz 120gb vertex 3
Samsung F4 2TB
Seagate 3TB
Gigabyte gtx 680 OC

Sin irfy from xtreme forums just thought id post here as more users here.
Its the same issue i reported months ago. tried increasing imc + vtt 0.005 like you said seemed to work.. Then just randomly sometimes it dont start 1st time...system auto off's 4 times then starts like nothin happen. I dont have any other issues besides this. When it boots it works solid just annoying that PC ON's n OFF's 4 times. (Not all the time) before on prev bioses the ddr voltage used to go back to 1.5v now it doesnt with F8. I flashed my backup bios to F8 aswell (using Alt + F10 method)
do both bioses have to be synched in any way??


----------



## Sin0822

I will look into it again with sandy bridge.


----------



## Ksyuen

I'm not sure whether i'm posting in the right thread or not. please let me know if i post in the wrong thread. There is question for me to ask:-

Have anyone try to over clock ati graphic cards? when i open easy tune 6, my graphic tab gray out. And also, when i try to use catalyst to overclock it, the "performance" tab has disappeared after i click on "accept".

simply, it means the system not allow me to overclock/ alter my graphic card clock speed. have anyone experiences these situation before? please help me.

Note: Previously, i tried to use the catalyst setting to overclock my GPU in my friend's computer and it works. wondering why it won't allow me to overclock in my current rig.

my PC specs:
Motherboad: GA-z77X-D3H
CPU: i5 3750k
GPU: ATI HD 4830


----------



## jopy

anyone tried the msata ssd on these boards?
any real life benefits compared to normal ssd?


----------



## Sin0822

just use your GPU's OC program, or something like afterburner.


----------



## Velathawen

Wondering if anyone else has a WB version of the board. I can't seem to get the system to recognize the WiFi card. I have plugged it in properly, and the USB cable is indeed plugged into F_USB1 as per the instructions. Is there a way to test if it's a dud card ?


----------



## Mabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> ...so if you put in your GPu and one of the RAID cards, it works? There is no physical way you can use both of them at the same time, and that isn't the boards fault, it is Intel's fault for only providing 16x PCI-E lanes.


When I said both cards were detected separately, I was referring both *RAID cards* are detected when they are ALONE in the system. With *VGA PEG OUT*

If I put the VGA back to first PCI-E slot and only one RAID card on slot 2 PCI-E then system will be in "Mode 2" 8x+8x, right ? It should work, right?
But it doesn't.
When VGA is in the system, raid card not detected.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s4e8*
> 
> How about set PCI-E mode to PCI-E 2.0 only?
> I test all three slot and work fine:
> 1st slot: dGPU at PCIE-2.0 16x card at 8x.
> 2nd slot: highpoint RAID PCIE-2.0 8x card at 4x
> 3rd slot SiI 3132 SATA card PCIE-1.0 1x


How do I do that? What BIOS setting change that?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mabs*
> 
> When I said both cards were detected separately, I was referring both *RAID cards* are detected when they are ALONE in the system. With *VGA PEG OUT*
> If I put the VGA back to first PCI-E slot and only one RAID card on slot 2 PCI-E then system will be in "Mode 2" 8x+8x, right ? It should work, right?
> But it doesn't.
> When VGA is in the system, raid card not detected.
> How do I do that? What BIOS setting change that?


try to see if you install the 4x card into the last port with the GPu in the first slot whether or not it works.

You can change PCI-E mode through the miscellaneous menu in MIT


----------



## Mabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> try to see if you install the 4x card into the last port with the GPu in the first slot whether or not it works.
> You can change PCI-E mode through the miscellaneous menu in MIT


I tried several combinations and none worked:

With Raid Card *LSI 9260-8i*:
GPU 1st slot + raid 2nd --> Not working
GPU 1st slot + raid 3rd --> Not working
GPU out of system + raid 1st --> working
GPU out of system + raid 2nd --> working
GPU out of system + raid 3rd --> not working

With Raid Card *LSI 8204elp*:
GPU 1st slot + raid 2nd --> Not working
GPU 1st slot + raid 3rd --> Not working
GPU out of system + raid 1st --> working
GPU out of system + raid 2nd --> not working
GPU out of system + raid 3rd --> not working

The BIOS setting "PEG (GEN3) slot configuration" doesn't change this behavior. Tried "AUTO"; "GEN3", "GEN2" and "GEN1"... no effect at all.
I'm sure this is BIOS related. And I hope Gigabyte corrects this in next Beta BIOS...


----------



## peck1234

Not bad for a 3450 right?! What kinda passmark scores are you guys getting with your rigs?


----------



## Cobalt

Hey guys the Asus z77 Deluxe has some really cool WiFi features like easy file transfer, streaming mode, etc. Does the UD5H have those capabilities as well?

EDIT: Not trying to sound like a snob I'm just trying to decide which board to buy.


----------



## Sin0822

yea it has some program called wifi share


----------



## Cobalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea it has some program called WiFi share


Thanks Sin. I already talked to you about this particular dilemma. I think I might go with the Asus because MicroCenter doesn't have the UD5H with WiFi









And with the $50 discount from purchasing an i5-3570K they would be essentially the same price anyways. Hopefully I'm making a good decision.


----------



## Sin0822

ahh yea you are that guy. Well if that is the case, then you might as well take the $50, that makes it a decent deal.


----------



## sena

Guys why i cant access my memtest on USB, it worked fine on my old REIII mobo, now it doesnt even recognizet it, it show in OS, but not in BIOS, any help?


----------



## Sin0822

try this: "There's a section called Hard Drive BBS Priorities under BIOS Features screen. Check under there whether SSD is selected. Once you select it there, it should appear as an option in Boot Option Priorities. I had the same thing happen to me." from snakes


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Guys why i cant access my memtest on USB, it worked fine on my old REIII mobo, now it doesnt even recognizet it, it show in OS, but not in BIOS, any help?


Try different USB ports. My front USB 2.0 don't get recognized in the BIOS. Any back ports are fine, and USB 3.0 front ports are fine too.


----------



## coolhandluke41

this is weird ..i have my OC stable running BF3 for hours but sometimes i will get ;

*0x7E* = (Corrupted OS file, possibly from overclocking. Run sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r)

What gives ?


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Well I got everything working, mostly. However if I move the case even 1 inch, it bugs out and starts crashing like crazy. Locks up all the time.

I finally figured out what it is. My video card - the one I tore apart and bought an after market water block for - is toast. It is bugging my whole system out ...

I have disconnected it and I am forced to use the on-board video, which sucks. I can't afford a new video card right now. I tried to salvage the old one to save $$. (sigh)... just my luck. I can't even return the video card because I already voided the warranty.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfy*
> 
> Z77x-UD5 (F8 bios)
> 
> Sin irfy from xtreme forums just thought id post here as more users here.
> Its the same issue i reported months ago. tried increasing imc + vtt 0.005 like you said seemed to work.. Then just randomly sometimes it dont start 1st time...system auto off's 4 times then starts like nothin happen


It';s most likely a peripheral,
Try this,
Unplug everything but your mouse and keyboard. Boot into BIOS, load optimum defaults. If you are RAID make sure to back and change it from AHCI to RAID because optimum defaults don't save that.

Save and exit. Run shut down and see how she does on a clod boot. If it still does it RMA that puppy. If it boots clean do it a few to make sure and then add one peripheral at a time until you find the issue.

i know two cases of eSATA screwing up cold boots.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> this is weird ..i have my OC stable running BF3 for hours but sometimes i will get ;
> *0x7E* = (Corrupted OS file, possibly from overclocking. Run sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r)
> What gives ?


well sometimes games can hit places of a CPU where Prime95 or IBT can't. Try lowering the CPU multiplier by 2 and don't change the vcore, and lower the memory multiplier by 2. Then see if it does the same thing.

you don't have ET6 or anything do you>?


----------



## sena

Thx sin and dexel, will try and post the results.
Btw for the guy with 0x7E, try the dos command, it helped some people.


----------



## Snakes

Ongoing USB saga, I just bought a second USB 3.0 external drive and plugged it into one of my front ports (now connected to USB30_1 header as I described a few pages back). Recognized with no problems. Plugged into other port, the message pops up "This device can operate faster..." Plugged it into the other port again, drive was not recognized. Plugged back into the other port, properly recognized and I proceeded to copy 300GB to it successfully. Strange stuff going on. If I have to I'll just use the back USB ports and forget about the front panel. I'm not too eager to go into more troubleshooting right now, hopefully I can still get the front ports to work at least some of the time.

Repeating the same behavior the next day, looks like moving to the Intel 3.0 header did not solve my problem after all. I think it's either a driver thing or the front panel is screwed up.


----------



## irfy

ive only 1 usb 2.0 used for keyboard and mouse. (unified adapter) No Raid just default AHCI. firewire marvel ports all extra bits im not using are all disabled in bios.
I build PC's part-time i cant show a customer a PC that doesnt start properly. I just wish Gigabyte fix issues with bios update. Perhaps a bios for Sandy users and one for Ivy.


----------



## arrow0309

@Sin0822

Excuse me if I'll bother you once again with nonsenses









Is that I'm fighting with some guys arguing that the UD3H vrm's dissy is not enough for a regular overclock (about 4.5-4.7ghz) to dissipate well the mosfets heat yet lasting through years as a real (ultra) durable mainboard.

http://www.hwupgrade.it/forum/showpost.php?p=37657470&postcount=2731

http://www.hwupgrade.it/forum/showpost.php?p=37658519&postcount=2735

What do you think, is that one becoming really hot when working hardly, what are their specs and regular temps?
Thanks


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfy*
> 
> ive only 1 usb 2.0 used for keyboard and mouse. (unified adapter) No Raid just default AHCI. firewire marvel ports all extra bits im not using are all disabled in bios.
> I build PC's part-time i cant show a customer a PC that doesnt start properly. I just wish Gigabyte fix issues with bios update. Perhaps a bios for Sandy users and one for Ivy.


Have you made sure that it is not some sort of hardware issue other than your motherboard. I would first strip the pc down to the most basic components (mouse, keyboard, one HD for OS, GPU, monitor and one stick of ram). Run memtest on one stick of ram at a time to ensure each is error free.


----------



## escarfone

Hello,

To all of us who have the "usb power" message, did you correctly plug the sata power (ATX4P) to the motherboard ?

I get this message with my rig and a day i decide to plug this connector just aboard conventional connectors on the motherboard and i never get the problem again.

Hope it helps.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escarfone*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> To all of us who have the "usb power" message, did you correctly plug the sata power (ATX4P) to the motherboard ?
> 
> I get this message with my rig and a day i decide to plug this connector just aboard conventional connectors on the motherboard and i never get the problem again.
> 
> Hope it helps.


errr... not sure that I did that... I just disabled the message haha


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *escarfone*
> 
> Hello,
> To all of us who have the "usb power" message, did you correctly plug the sata power (ATX4P) to the motherboard ?
> I get this message with my rig and a day i decide to plug this connector just aboard conventional connectors on the motherboard and i never get the problem again.
> Hope it helps.


Can someone decipher that second sentence?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *escarfone*
> 
> Hello,
> To all of us who have the "usb power" message, did you correctly plug the sata power (ATX4P) to the motherboard ?
> I get this message with my rig and a day i decide to plug this connector just aboard conventional connectors on the motherboard and i never get the problem again.
> Hope it helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone decipher that second sentence?
Click to expand...

Yea, he's saying by plugging in the ATX4P connector (SATA power connection above the SATA ports on the motherboard) it removed the overpowered USB error. However, it shouldn't matter as the ATX4P port is for supplying additional power to the PCI-E lanes when you're running 2 or more video cards. It shouldn't power the USB at all.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> @Sin0822
> Excuse me if I'll bother you once again with nonsenses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that I'm fighting with some guys arguing that the UD3H vrm's dissy is not enough for a regular overclock (about 4.5-4.7ghz) to dissipate well the mosfets heat yet lasting through years as a real (ultra) durable mainboard.
> http://www.hwupgrade.it/forum/showpost.php?p=37657470&postcount=2731
> http://www.hwupgrade.it/forum/showpost.php?p=37658519&postcount=2735
> What do you think, is that one becoming really hot when working hardly, what are their specs and regular temps?
> Thanks


That board is designed to last even without heatsinks, those MOSFETs have very good characteristics and are designed to operate in without them even with a heavy load. For god sakes, the UD3H holds the frequency WR for Ivy Bridge, and has been used to top the charts as well in benchmarks, its VRm shouldn't come into question. But it is understandable, but really not a big deal. you can touch your VRMs if you have a UD3H, are they hot? The MOSFETs that have no heatsinks I mean.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Ongoing USB saga, I just bought a second USB 3.0 external drive and plugged it into one of my front ports (now connected to USB30_1 header as I described a few pages back). Recognized with no problems. Plugged into other port, the message pops up "This device can operate faster..." Plugged it into the other port again, drive was not recognized. Plugged back into the other port, properly recognized and I proceeded to copy 300GB to it successfully. Strange stuff going on. If I have to I'll just use the back USB ports and forget about the front panel. I'm not too eager to go into more troubleshooting right now, hopefully I can still get the front ports to work at least some of the time.
> Repeating the same behavior the next day, looks like moving to the Intel 3.0 header did not solve my problem after all. I think it's either a driver thing or the front panel is screwed up.


You tested the header on the board with the included bracket right? and it worked right? It was your cases front panel USB 3.0 panel thing that didn't work? Same issue?


----------



## threevok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> One reason I don't use the GIgabyte bracket is my case doesn't have a 3.5" bay opening in front. I suspect the problem was Windows is using generic drivers for the VIA USB 3.0 controllers and somehow that caused insufficient power to the front panel which is a hub and not just ports and wires. I don't fully understand it but I read something along those lines on Corsair forums. As soon as I plugged everything into the Intel header it all worked fine. The external HDD I was trying to use is powered by the USB port and maybe that had something to do with it, I'm not sure.


My UD5H came with a 5" to 3.5" adapter.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *threevok*
> 
> My UD5H came with a 5" to 3.5" adapter.


really?? can we see a picture? or did you order it extra?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *threevok*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> One reason I don't use the GIgabyte bracket is my case doesn't have a 3.5" bay opening in front. I suspect the problem was Windows is using generic drivers for the VIA USB 3.0 controllers and somehow that caused insufficient power to the front panel which is a hub and not just ports and wires. I don't fully understand it but I read something along those lines on Corsair forums. As soon as I plugged everything into the Intel header it all worked fine. The external HDD I was trying to use is powered by the USB port and maybe that had something to do with it, I'm not sure.
> 
> 
> 
> My UD5H came with a 5" to 3.5" adapter.
Click to expand...

Sure your case didn't come with that adapter? I know my UD5H didn't come with an adapter for that.


----------



## threevok

Oops, I believe the 5.25 to 3.5 adapter came with my case. COOLER MASTER RC-692-KKN2 CM690 II. Sorry. Now, where did I put my beer?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> You tested the header on the board with the included bracket right? and it worked right? It was your cases front panel USB 3.0 panel thing that didn't work? Same issue?


I'm not sure if that test told me much, sometimes it'll work and then the next time it won't. When I switched to the Intel header both ports worked fine, but the next day both of them were having problems. Then one of them finally worked. I'll have to do some more tests, to make sure it's the front panel. I don't believe it's the motherboard that's the problem, if that's true then I'm just not sure whether it's a hardware flaw in the panel or a driver issue. I've never had a problem with the back USB ports. Will do some more testing tomorrow.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea, he's saying by plugging in the ATX4P connector (SATA power connection above the SATA ports on the motherboard) it removed the overpowered USB error. However, it shouldn't matter as the ATX4P port is for supplying additional power to the PCI-E lanes when you're running 2 or more video cards. It shouldn't power the USB at all.


Ah, OK. That's strange. You wouldn't think it would make a difference in USB operation, but if it worked for him then cool.


----------



## stasio

UD5H - F9d is out.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Does that work on the UDH5 wifi board too?


----------



## stasio

yes


----------



## Sin0822

F9D *Added Internal CPU PLL overvoltage setting* there you go this week just like they told me.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> F9D *Added Internal CPU PLL overvoltage setting* there you go this week just like they told me.


how this can help?


----------



## EvgeniX

now I run 1866 @ 1.365V with VTT and IMC = Auto.... Also with 2133 looks like its does not like to touch VTT and IMC - if they = AUTO I can start to boot windows but never finish







but when I touch VTT and IMC Boot failed at BIOS level......


----------



## Sin0822

yes sometimes VTT and IMC can cause issues, and hurt if you raise them.

Also CPu PLL Overvoltage is very useful to Sandy Bridge users, it is enabled by default, and it is needed to use the 24x memory multiplier. However many sandy bridge users complained and now they have it so they can disable it!


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yes sometimes VTT and IMC can cause issues, and hurt if you raise them.
> Also CPu PLL Overvoltage is very useful to Sandy Bridge users, it is enabled by default, and it is needed to use the 24x memory multiplier. However many sandy bridge users complained and now they have it so they can disable it!


so why they did it for Z77 with Ivy


----------



## EvgeniX

so far F9d best BIOS for me.... Its good to see they working.... but why they doing it after release of product (I know why - money







) so hope to see my ram at 2133+ soon with new BIOS


----------



## Sin0822

why Z77 with ivy Bridge? because a lot of users are using Z77 and Sandy Bridge. ivy Bridge can resume from sleep just fine with CPU PLL OV enabled, but Sandy bridge cannot do it so easily. Setting that setting to disable for many SB users with 4.5ghz OCes for instance will help them with resuming from sleep.


----------



## blazed_1

Just picked up a UD3H and a 2600k a few days ago and I have a few questions that you guys can hopefully help me with. I have some experience overclocking SB chips but just on an Asus and ASRock mobo so some of the settings in the UD3H I'm not to sure about. Most of what I'm not sure about are the 3D power control settings, ie. the voltage and current protection settings. Also, does it make a difference using turbo mode to OC? This is going to be a 24/7 folding rig so I'm not too worried about any power saving features. And is there's any way to turn off the LED's (post code and bios selection) after boot?

Any recommendations on which bios version to use? I played around a little with f7 and f12d and they both seem about the same. The only issue I seem to have is the bclk. With f7 it gives me 100.30 and f12d goes from 100.03 to 100.05 with it set to 100.00 in the bios.

Any other tips for getting a max stable OC out of this 2600k would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Sin0822

hey man welcome! Congratulations on your purchase









All you need to set for advanced power settings is the LLC, setting turbo will do just fine. CPUz might show a slight droop, but in reality the droop is like less than 0.010mv, more like 0.002(2mv)-0.005(5mv), so much less than what CPUz shows, you get basically what you set. If you would like, i do this to make sure, i set the Cpu Current to extreme, and I set the phase control to extreme perf just to make sure all my phases are on.

CPu PLL OV will probably be enabled by default, so no reason to worry about where that setting is. it took me a long time to rally for getting it included to be able to be disabled for SB users who want the computer to sleep properly, but no doubt it is enabled when you try to OC.

Everything is pretty straight forward, um you can even disable turbo mode, and all the power savings, and just set a multiplier. it is very simple, no stupid turbo power limits to worry about. The GB boards actually OC through turbo, but they allow you to disable the turbo option, and basically that will max out all the turbo power settings. They don't complicate things like asrock does with power duration and crap.

IMO update to the latest BIOS and see how you like it, otherwise users here or i can recommend one. if you would like I can make you an OC profile, and you can load it with a USB stick directly into the BIOS. I have a 2600k and a UD3h.


----------



## EvgeniX

I like F9d now I'm stable at 4.8 @ 1.325V Bios and 1.308 @ Load CUP-Z







vs 1.365V with F9a at BIOS


----------



## blazed_1

I agree, the vdroop on the board is very nice, and I've only been using turbo so far. I did see about the CPU PLL OV but I'm not worried about that since this rig will not be sleeping. I'm using the latest beta listed, F12d, and no issues other then the bclk not being exactly 100.00 but that's no biggie.

If you could make a profile like you said that would be awesome. That way I could compare it to what I have now and see how close I was.


----------



## Sin0822

What kind of oc do you want? what vcore


----------



## blazed_1

So far the most stable OC I have is 4.7GHz at 1.46v. This chip seems a little power hungry.


----------



## sixor

any way to turn the leds off in ud3h? i mean the light from the power button in the mobo


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> any way to turn the leds off in ud3h? i mean the light from the power button in the mobo


for me power is ok BUT BIOS led.... too bright


----------



## DeXel

F9d is good, was able to OC my CPU to 4.4Ghz with 1.285 on Vcore, LLC on turbo.
Memory to 2033Mhz with 10-11-11-27 at 1.6v. Failed after an hour.
The only problem is that it seems to have cold boot bug.


----------



## sixor

what is this cold boot everyone talks about? what is that? can´t find what it is on google


----------



## Mabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mabs*
> 
> The GA-Z77X-UD5H doesn't detect my two LSI Megaraid controllers. I have a LSI Megaraid 8204elp (PCI-E x4) and a LSI Megaraid 9260-8i (PCI-E x8) that are not detected by BIOS POST.
> I tried all the beta BIOS there is and still are not detected the way they should.
> The weird thing is they are only detected when I remove my PCI-E Graphic card. If I remove the PEG card and use the integrated graphic the cards are detected.
> My older LSI 8204elp is only detected on first x16 PCI-E slot.
> The newer LSI 9260-8i is detected on both the first and second PCI-E slots.
> BUT WITHOUT PEG ?!?


Last F9d Bios update solved half my problems. The newer LSI Raid controller is now detected on second PCI-E slot AND WITH PEG ON FIRST.








My older LSI Megaraid 8204elp continues not being detected no matter the PCI-E slot it uses.

Maybe next beta Bios Gigabyte gets there and the card becomes detected also.
As I only need to use one Raid controller, ... its all good!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> F9d is good, was able to OC my CPU to 4.4Ghz with 1.285 on Vcore, LLC on turbo.
> Memory to 2033Mhz with 10-11-11-27 at 1.6v. Failed after an hour.
> The only problem is that it seems to have cold boot bug.


after you flash your BIOS it will reset itself, and reboot again and then boot.


----------



## blazed_1

Hit a wall with bios F12d on my UD3H with the ram speed. I can change the speed and timings in the bios but when I check in cpu-z they're still running the xmp settings. Flashed F11 and they change just fine. I did notice with F12d, I forgot to change the power settings in windows and it went to sleep, woke up no problems.


----------



## arrow0309

*Gigabyte G1.Sniper 3 @ Overclock3D.net*

Link: http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cpu_mainboard/gigabyte_g1_sniper_3_review/1










*Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H-WB WiFi @ OCaholic*

Link: http://www.ocaholic.ch/xoops/html/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=769&sel_lang=english


----------



## -Ste-

very happy with the f9d bios

its already reduced the vcore for my 4.7ghz overclock to 1.360 (for instance it was @ 1.4 ) temps are down a good 5c

and now the rest of the afternoon to see how far i can go now with this 2500k


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> very happy with the f9d bios
> 
> its already reduced the vcore for my 4.7ghz overclock to 1.360 (for instance it was @ 1.4 ) temps are down a good 5c
> 
> and now the rest of the afternoon to see how far i can go now with this 2500k


Is this happening with the Ivy Bridge equivalents as well? I might have to flash to a F9d to see if I can get 4.8ghz on this i7









I'm still running F6 because it does everything perfect for me so far.


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Is this happening with the Ivy Bridge equivalents as well? I might have to flash to a F9d to see if I can get 4.8ghz on this i7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still running F6 because it does everything perfect for me so far.


dont think so main reason why im getting this is now us sandy bridge users can enable/disable ppl over voltage


----------



## Famous672

Hey guys- New Z77-UD3H owner here. I've had it for about a 2 weeks and it is running well so far although I did have some usb3.0 problems. Mouse and keyboard would work in the bios but as soon as windows loaded both were dead. I ended up having to plug into the usb2 headers on the board in order to install the drivers. After that everything works as long as I keep my logitech Momo wheel out of the usb3 ports.

The questions I have today are about the fan controller. I have 3 scythe 1200 rpm fans on a 360 radiator that I would like to control. As it is now I have one plugged into the cpu header (set to voltage) and the others in sys fan1 and 3. The cpu fan and fan1 can be controlled using ET6 but fan 3 is always at full speed. I have read only sys fan 1 is controlled by voltage and fans 2 and 3 are pwm only. Is this really the case and if so is there any chance this can be changed with a bios update at some point? Ideally I would like to have all 3 fans ramp up with the cpu temp which brings me to my next question.

The system temp doesn't vary enough to reliably speed the fans up under load. Is there a program or setting I can use to control the sys fans to adjust their speed based on cpu temp? Or if I buy one of those 3 port fan splitters and plug them all into the cpu header would that overload the motherboard? Space is an issue in my pc so I would like to avoid buying a separate fan controller. I don't have any usable 3.5 or 5.25 bays either.

Any advice or insight would be appreciated.


----------



## Sin0822

yea it is one of the limitations of your board, your other option is to just set it higher, but are you sure your system temperature doesn't go up much? I am guessing it is a confined space so i would think the temperature would increase.

Anyways also about your USB 3.0 ports not working until you installed drivers, that is very normal, as those are the VIA ports, and they run off a VIA controller, not a hub, and they require drivers before they will work. Same goes for the UD3H.

You can possibly put two of your fans on the CPU header, but not 3. You might overload it.


----------



## Famous672

Actually the first time I installed windows the usb ports worked when using the ones on the Intel controller. I had a bad driver install (user error) and had to reformat and reinstall windows when the usb ports on the back wouldn't work. I was using a PS2 keyboard at the time if that has anything to do with it.

The system temp does rise but much slower than the cpu temps. I guess I could adjust the limits so it ramps up faster. My main issue is having the one fan at full speed since it is a quiet system otherwise. Worst case I could always break down and buy some new pwm fans.

What would be the consequence of overloading a fan header? Permanent damage?


----------



## -Ste-

just a little update with my overclocking with the f9d beta bios for the UD5H with my 2500k

4.5ghz is at 1.310 down from 1.360
4.7ghz is at 1.360 down from 1.400
4.9ghz is at 1.400 i could never get stable before


----------



## hipzilla

Are any of you using 32GB RAM in your UD5H? I'm interested in loading up for nested VMs/ramdisk but wanted to see if any of you had first-hand experience using that much memory on the board. Looking at non-Corsair kits (Crucial Ballistix Sport, Mushkin Blackline) as I've had issues with them in the past.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famous672*
> 
> Hey guys- New Z77-UD3H owner here. I've had it for about a 2 weeks and it is running well so far although I did have some usb3.0 problems. Mouse and keyboard would work in the bios but as soon as windows loaded both were dead. I ended up having to plug into the usb2 headers on the board in order to install the drivers. After that everything works as long as I keep my logitech Momo wheel out of the usb3 ports.
> The questions I have today are about the fan controller. I have 3 scythe 1200 rpm fans on a 360 radiator that I would like to control. As it is now I have one plugged into the cpu header (set to voltage) and the others in sys fan1 and 3. The cpu fan and fan1 can be controlled using ET6 but fan 3 is always at full speed. I have read only sys fan 1 is controlled by voltage and fans 2 and 3 are pwm only. Is this really the case and if so is there any chance this can be changed with a bios update at some point? Ideally I would like to have all 3 fans ramp up with the cpu temp which brings me to my next question.
> The system temp doesn't vary enough to reliably speed the fans up under load. Is there a program or setting I can use to control the sys fans to adjust their speed based on cpu temp? Or if I buy one of those 3 port fan splitters and plug them all into the cpu header would that overload the motherboard? Space is an issue in my pc so I would like to avoid buying a separate fan controller. I don't have any usable 3.5 or 5.25 bays either.
> Any advice or insight would be appreciated.


I've not used it with this board but Speedfan is something you may want to try as it should be able to do what you are trying to do without overloading an individual fan header. However, two of your fans will have to be pwm for it to work without a fan controller. You might be able to get away with getting two fans using a y-splitter on the cpu fan header, but not likely three.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hipzilla*
> 
> Are any of you using 32GB RAM in your UD5H? I'm interested in loading up for nested VMs/ramdisk but wanted to see if any of you had first-hand experience using that much memory on the board. Looking at non-Corsair kits (Crucial Ballistix Sport, Mushkin Blackline) as I've had issues with them in the past.


How about Kingston? i know that GB and Kingston work very closely to make sure everything works very well, I am not sure about mushkin or crucial as they have sort of dropped off the deep end when it comes to being up to date with newer modules. Honestly it might take an increase in VTT and IMC voltages, with Sandy bridge you might have issues, but I think ivy bridge can handle it. i know that my kingston kit is 16GB 2133 and it runs very well on sandy bridge and ivy bridge with my UD5H.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> just a little update with my overclocking with the f9d beta bios for the UD5H with my 2500k
> 4.5ghz is at 1.310 down from 1.360
> 4.7ghz is at 1.360 down from 1.400
> 4.9ghz is at 1.400 i could never get stable before


Hey so you are saying BIOS F9D improved your CPu OC? Did you enable Cpu PLl OV?

*Also all the users who didn't like F8!!!*!! Please listen, so there was a major change put into BIOS F8, and it had to do with increasing stability, but many of you reported that it actually hurt the stability of your 24/7 OCs, most of you were sandy bridge owners. If you could please let me know if BIOS F9D helps fix this, if not then please let me know and I will give you another version of BIOS F8, named F8X, and it has the stability changes removed, so it is F8 but without the changes that many of you reported hurt your OC. if you could try it and let me know if it fixes your issue, then I can report it and they will work on changing it.


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Hey so you are saying BIOS F9D improved your CPu OC? Did you enable Cpu PLl OV?
> *Also all the users who didn't like F8!!!*!! Please listen, so there was a major change put into BIOS F8, and it had to do with increasing stability, but many of you reported that it actually hurt the stability of your 24/7 OCs, most of you were sandy bridge owners. If you could please let me know if BIOS F9D helps fix this, if not then please let me know and I will give you another version of BIOS F8, named F8X, and it has the stability changes removed, so it is F8 but without the changes that many of you reported hurt your OC. if you could try it and let me know if it fixes your issue, then I can report it and they will work on changing it.


pretty sure its because i have enabled Cpu PLl OV at 4.5ghz
at 1.310 with its left to auto i could never get into windows

seems happy enough played a couple of hours of bf3 and a hour of prime going to leave prime over night now


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hipzilla*
> 
> Are any of you using 32GB RAM in your UD5H? I'm interested in loading up for nested VMs/ramdisk but wanted to see if any of you had first-hand experience using that much memory on the board. Looking at non-Corsair kits (Crucial Ballistix Sport, Mushkin Blackline) as I've had issues with them in the past.


I have Crucial Balistix Sport 2x8GB kit, and they are working fine. Not sure about 32GB of them in total.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> after you flash your BIOS it will reset itself, and reboot again and then boot.


Well, everytime I reboot my system in windows, the board was turning off, and then was booting after that. That does not happen anymore. Not sure what I did though, but most likely overclock wasn't stable.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea it is one of the limitations of your board, your other option is to just set it higher, but are you sure your system temperature doesn't go up much? I am guessing it is a confined space so i would think the temperature would increase.
> Anyways also about your USB 3.0 ports not working until you installed drivers, that is very normal, as those are the VIA ports, and they run off a VIA controller, not a hub, and they require drivers before they will work. Same goes for the UD3H.
> You can possibly put two of your fans on the CPU header, but not 3. You might overload it.


Is the rear USB 3.0 on the UD5H VIA also? If so, why isn't there a driver?
The only problem I have is my Kodak printer won't work off the rear USB 3.0 ports.


----------



## Sin0822

The ud5h and sniper3 have 1:4 hubs. the ud3h and othershave a 1:4 controller. the hub requires no driver because it is Intel usb3 on the output. the hub is like a repeater in there it strengthens the signal and it also consolidate bandwidth it also does use a 1x pcie lane from the pch


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> The ud5h and sniper3 have 1:4 hubs. the ud3h and othershave a 1:4 controller. the hub requires no driver because it is Intel usb3 on the output. the hub is like a repeater in there it strengthens the signal and it also consolidate bandwidth it also does use a 1x pcie lane from the pch


So in that case plugging in the ATX4P plug could actually supply voltage necessary to remove the USB overvolting error that many have experienced?

Also, the gains people are seeing on the F9d BIOS... is that only SB users? or are IB users seeing the same? I would love to start pushing 4.8/4.9 on my IB


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So in that case plugging in the ATX4P plug could actually supply voltage necessary to remove the USB overvolting error that many have experienced?
> Also, the gains people are seeing on the F9d BIOS... is that only SB users? or are IB users seeing the same? I would love to start pushing 4.8/4.9 on my IB


I think my 3570K works with slighly less voltage too on F9d. 1.285V for 4.4Ghz. Before it was closer to 1.3V if I remember correctly (I will switch to the backup BIOS tomorrow to see if it is so). In both cases LLC at turbo.


----------



## BobLeProf

So (just checking my understanding) on my UD5H, one Via810 chip is driving the 4 USB 3.0 ports on the back panel, the other is driving the two MB USB 3.0 headers next the the front panel & GSATA headers (f_usb30_3 & 2), but the f_usb30_1 header runs directly off the Z77. But all of them are using the same driver. So this narrows the possibilities for the difference that I encounter where all of the USB 3.0 ports work fine under Win8 except the ports on the f_usb30_1 header (they don't recognize the first USB 3.0 device that I plug in after boot - USB 2.0 devices have no issue - but 3.0 devices work fine after that first device is not recognized). The Win8 driver that is driving all the ports must have some issue with the header that is not going through a hub.

What I am getting at is that this still sounds like it could be a driver issue or a BIOS issue, no? (BTW The problem header is fine for me under Win7.) Hmmm... I haven't tested this in a while, so I'll try again with f9d and the latest Win8 RP updates.

(I am loving f9d, very stable, but I think some of my previous instability issues may have been related, at least in part, to Google Chrome on Windows 8.)


----------



## Ali Man

Well guys, I'm running UD5H WB with 3570K since a month now @ 4.5Ghz and no problems yet until now. Well the WIFI tends to connect and disconnect the whole time and randomly. It used to work perfectly before, but now it's being a pain. Any help would be appreciated.

I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers from the giga website, but that didn't help.
Also updated to F9D, just for the heck of it, but still no go.


----------



## Sin0822

perhaps it has to do with your access point.


----------



## 2therock

I just sent RMA UD5H off today to Gigabyte. t was fine for a while and then all hell broke lose.

The Wifi like the above post flickered in and out, even viewer records those. As for it being the access point on mine, not. I have a security system on a nother P)C on the same network that notifies me if there is any trouble there.

It will not cold boot every time hanging at the Megatrends screen or if it gets by there it hangs at the blank screen with a blinking cursor. It finally comes up after a 2nd or 3rd boot

It will not stay in sleep mode and has the random reboot, and every so often it pops up with an auto play as if I just insetd something.

Clearing CMOS, optimum defaults, minimum software and only a keyboard and mouse make no difference.

She is on her way back.


----------



## Sin0822

yea it was a good idea to RMA it then, as you got a whole lot of issues.

Can i confirm that you are using two sets of the generic samsung memory?


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea it was a good idea to RMA it then, as you got a whole lot of issues.
> Can i confirm that you are using two sets of the generic Samsung memory?


Yes, 16GB of it. I have tried the Gigabyte phone support on the Cold boot issue and they had me do the one stick at a time thing and they all passed.

I did find after disconnecting my eSATA external RAID1 box that has its own power supply it would cold boot just fine. So that fixed the cold boot issue but created a "I can't run an eSATA device". The same box ran fine on my Q6600 -EP35-DS3R and EP45-UD3P boards.

All this "Try a different USB port" stuff with other issues I read about has me depressed also.

So, Im back on my EP45-UD3P till it returns. Newegg made the sale last month on the 16th, I go it on the 22nd, that counted my return period from the sale date. Chit Mon!


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Yes, 16GB of it. I have tried the Gigabyte phone support on the Cold boot issue and they had me do the one stick at a time thing and they all passed.
> I did find after disconnecting my eSATA external RAID1 box that has its own power supply it would cold boot just fine. So that fixed the cold boot issue but created a "I can't run an eSATA device". The same box ran fine on my Q6600 -EP35-DS3R and EP45-UD3P boards.
> All this "Try a different USB port" stuff with other issues I read about has me depressed also.
> So, Im back on my EP45-UD3P till it returns. Newegg made the sale last month on the 16th, I go it on the 22nd, that counted my return period from the sale date. Chit Mon!


looks like they need to get good/stable BIOS faster before people start RMA's....


----------



## Sin0822

well in his case an RMA is what is needed, as it is most likely a faulty board or some hardware issue. Most likely now that he found that without his eSATA drive it works fine, that is most likely the issue, there is perhaps a hardware issue.

What is your eSATA drive? Can you give me all the specs on it? That way I can report it, and if they have it they can try it and see if they get the same issue. A simple HDD timeout can also cause issues. What was your cold boot issue? It just wouldn't boot? or it would hang at the BIOS screen? if it hangs at the BIOS screen, that is simple HDD timeout man.

hey Evgenix, you have the SAME exact system specs, mobo, CPU, memory, do you have any of his issues?


----------



## isidore

***!! I fixed my random db error at boot, by disabling my XMP profile from bios. Basically i had it on to run my memory's at 1600mhz (which is default for them 8gb Corsair Vengeance LP-1600mhz).

Any ideas why is this happening.


----------



## 2therock

What is db?


----------



## Mr Frosty

Got me a Z77X-UD5H today and having some issues with it over my P67 Sabertooth.

My 2500k does do 5Ghz with a load Vcore of around 1.4v however having a hard time on the UD5, it's running the F5 and I think that's the culprit!

Voltage on this board is *VERY* stable with little to no droop/drop with LLC on auto setting, however I can't get Linx to pass more then 2 runs despite there more then enough Vcore and with the proper timings and voltage set on the RAM.

Is there anything I could be missing?


----------



## irfy

I just flashed to F9d from F8 i noticed a few new options in bios. I did notice abnormal voltage reading pls see pic. F9d correctly sets voltage for samsung green 1.35v. All other bioses prior to F8 used to set 1.524v.

ive still hav start up issues same as before (DB error what some peeps are calling it) mine starts and shuts down 4 times before booting fine.


----------



## Mr Frosty

Seriously this board will not even do 2 runs of Linx at STOCK settings without failing due to error


----------



## Raiden911

Been using the Z77X-UD3H for about the month with no major issues. Only issue I had was the flashing the bios which me to not being able to use my K90 keyboard, but was later fixed with the latest bios. But the two things that got to me was the optical out being able to do 2.0 pcm to my receiver from the get-go due to the VIA sound chipset and now the need for more SATA ports. Luckily, my couz wants to upgrade from his q9450 to the new IB and is willing to get my setup. Just got myself the ud5h+3570k yesterday and that was something that I should have done from the start instead of trying to save $30.

UD5 series for life!









Looking forward to get everything setup tonite.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Seriously this board will not even do 2 runs of Linx at STOCK settings without failing due to error


Man update the BIOS first. There been many optimizations done for Sandy Bridge CPUs. Try F9d, because it is first with PLL overvoltage option. Also try F7, F8, and F8d. For beta BIOS refer to the OP.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Got me a Z77X-UD5H today and having some issues with it over my P67 Sabertooth.
> My 2500k does do 5Ghz with a load Vcore of around 1.4v however having a hard time on the UD5, it's running the F5 and I think that's the culprit!
> Voltage on this board is *VERY* stable with little to no droop/drop with LLC on auto setting, however I can't get Linx to pass more then 2 runs despite there more then enough Vcore and with the proper timings and voltage set on the RAM.
> Is there anything I could be missing?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Seriously this board will not even do 2 runs of Linx at STOCK settings without failing due to error


As has already been suggested, flash to newest bios and see how that does as it has been specifically optimized for SB. Also, it would be helpful for you to fill in your system specs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfy*
> 
> 
> I just flashed to F9d from F8 i noticed a few new options in bios. I did notice abnormal voltage reading pls see pic. F9d correctly sets voltage for samsung green 1.35v. All other bioses prior to F8 used to set 1.524v.
> ive still hav start up issues same as before (DB error what some peeps are calling it) mine starts and shuts down 4 times before booting fine.


If you would pls fill in your system specs, that would help to provide you with better recommendations.


----------



## Mr Frosty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Man update the BIOS first. There been many optimizations done for Sandy Bridge CPUs. Try F9d, because it is first with PLL overvoltage option. Also try F7, F8, and F8d. For beta BIOS refer to the OP.


Wont let me update, tried a memory stick or updating from my raid 0 windows HDD and it wont even let me select the update from disk option.

Right I can pass LInx at 1024, 2048 and 4096 RAM but fail when all RAM is tested,

Vcore or IMC need more voltage?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Wont let me update, tried a memory stick or updating from my raid 0 windows HDD and it wont even let me select the update from disk option.
> Right I can pass LInx at 1024, 2048 and 4096 RAM but fail when all RAM is tested,
> Vcore or IMC need more voltage?


Memory stick must be FAT32 formated and plugged to back usb ports. Also try to make VTT and IMC within 0.005v of each other (IMC less than VTT).


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Seriously this board will not even do 2 runs of Linx at STOCK settings without failing due to error


Flash to the F9d beta BIOS. It was linked in the last 100 posts in here. F9d is supposed to solve a lot of SB problems for you.


----------



## EvgeniX

GIGABYTE owe me $47!!!







for 2 sticks of memory....









with just 2 sticks in I can lower VCORE -> so its lower temps -> also better OC of memory!!

where I can get my $47


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> GIGABYTE owe me $47!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for 2 sticks of memory....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with just 2 sticks in I can lower VCORE -> so its lower temps -> also better OC of memory!!
> where I can get my $47


I thought it is a common knowledge that more sticks create more stress on the memory controller, thus causing some random issues...

Although this was true in time of 775 socket







, I don't know if IMC in Ivy Bridge should be able to handle more sticks better.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I thought it is a common knowledge that more sticks create more stress on the memory controller, thus causing some random issues...
> Although this was true in time of 775 socket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I don't know if IMC in Ivy Bridge should be able to handle more sticks better.


looks like ASUS found way







but still waiting GIGABYTE to find way too....


----------



## Sin0822

then go get an asus and stop complaining, lol. BTW it is part of Intel spec, TT thing you are referring too. It isn't some amazing asus only tech. Other manufacturers knew about it before Z77 release as well.

The memory you have however isn't very good with these boards no matter the rest of the hardware, however you should be able to get 2133 stable on all 4 DIMMs.

MR. FROSTY- UPDATE YOUR BIOS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BIOS F7 increase stability HEAVILY for all CPUs. F8 does the same. F9D will have the fixes for all of them. As suggested use FAT32 flash drive.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> then go get an asus and stop complaining, lol. BTW it is part of Intel spec, TT thing you are referring too. It isn't some amazing asus only tech. Other manufacturers knew about it before Z77 release as well.
> 
> The memory you have however isn't very good with these boards no matter the rest of the hardware, however you should be able to get 2133 stable on all 4 DIMMs.
> 
> MR. FROSTY- UPDATE YOUR BIOS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BIOS F7 increase stability HEAVILY for all CPUs. F8 does the same. F9D will have the fixes for all of them. As suggested use FAT32 flash drive.


Any of those BIOSes improve OCing capabilities on IB? I'd love to push this beast to 4.8 or 4.9...


----------



## Sin0822

Try F9D see if it does anything, but IB OCing is already maxed out on these boards







Unless Intel does something to do it for all motherboards, there is nothing GB can do,i mean the UD3H has the WR for Ivy bridge Frequency LOL, what more can you ask for?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> then go get an asus and stop complaining, lol. BTW it is part of Intel spec, TT thing you are referring too. It isn't some amazing asus only tech. Other manufacturers knew about it before Z77 release as well.
> The memory you have however isn't very good with these boards no matter the rest of the hardware, however you should be able to get 2133 stable on all 4 DIMMs.
> MR. FROSTY- UPDATE YOUR BIOS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BIOS F7 increase stability HEAVILY for all CPUs. F8 does the same. F9D will have the fixes for all of them. As suggested use FAT32 flash drive.


I get GIGABYTE cos its good for hackintosh....

with F9d they did some good improvements so its looks like they on right way.... just taking too long







but I'm still waiting....


----------



## jking3826

i recently got a gigabyte z77x-ud3h with i5 3570k and gkill memory. The computer has been freezing up occassionally. Anyone else having these problems? it seems to happen especially when i try to use Splashtop to remotely log into the computer. Could it be the atheros lan card or my wifi card that's causing the computer to freeze?


----------



## Krysaenaar

Had another lockup whilst playing BF3.

rebooted and had a lockup while on the desktop, went into BIOS and it locked up there.









Anyways i am finally getting around to trying onboard sound instead of my X-fi PCI to see if that the issue.

Noob question incoming









I turned on the onboard in the BIOs.

Installed from the CreativeSB folder
Installed from the Realtek folder
Trying to install from the Creative folder and it says "setup is unable to detect a supported product on your system"

No DVD drive on comp so i copied the Audio folder from the CD onto a stick

What am i doing wrong?

Cheers guys


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jking3826*
> 
> i recently got a gigabyte z77x-ud3h with i5 3570k and gkill memory. The computer has been freezing up occassionally. Anyone else having these problems? it seems to happen especially when i try to use Splashtop to remotely log into the computer. Could it be the atheros lan card or my wifi card that's causing the computer to freeze?


you have listed no systems specs or BIOS version or anything, we cannot just help you if we know nothing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Had another lockup whilst playing BF3.
> rebooted and had a lockup while on the desktop, went into BIOS and it locked up there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways i am finally getting around to trying onboard sound instead of my X-fi PCI to see if that the issue.
> Noob question incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned on the onboard in the BIOs.
> Installed from the CreativeSB folder
> Installed from the Realtek folder
> Trying to install from the Creative folder and it says "setup is unable to detect a supported product on your system"
> No DVD drive on comp so i copied the Audio folder from the CD onto a stick
> What am i doing wrong?
> Cheers guys


Some guys had uploaded the drivers and software package for the XF-I in this thread, anywhere remember where it was?


----------



## Krysaenaar

The drivers are on page 62

I installed those ones Sin (Sound blaster console etc)

I am a bit confused still though

In device manager it says under audio:

High definition Audio Device
Realtek High Definition Audio

Should there be a listing for x-fi there?

Cheers man


----------



## DeXel

There are two Creative folders on the DVD. One of them is for UD5H, the other is not (maybe for UD3H?) so it is normal.

And realtek hda in device manager is normal since creative software is just an emulation of x-fi effects.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> There are two Creative folders on the DVD. One of them is for UD5H, the other is not (maybe for UD3H?) so it is normal.
> And realtek hda in device manager is normal since creative software is just an emulation of x-fi effects.


Ah i see!

Cheers DeXel. +Rep


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> well in his case an RMA is what is needed, as it is most likely a faulty board or some hardware issue. Most likely now that he found that without his eSATA drive it works fine, that is most likely the issue, there is perhaps a hardware issue.
> What is your eSATA drive? Can you give me all the specs on it? That way I can report it, and if they have it they can try it and see if they get the same issue. A simple HDD timeout can also cause issues. What was your cold boot issue? It just wouldn't boot? or it would hang at the BIOS screen? if it hangs at the BIOS screen, that is simple HDD timeout man.
> hey Evgenix, you have the SAME exact system specs, mobo, CPU, memory, do you have any of his issues?


Here are some links to my eSATA. Mine was released before USB 3.0 so..... It also has Firewire 400 & 800 capabilities. I use eSATA.
But here are links to that one and the newer ones. It has its own RAID1 controller and power supply. Works great but for the UD5H.

Also know I purchased the Box only and used two WDC 750GB RE3 Enterprise HDD's.


Box with USB 2.0 option.

Box with USB 3.0.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Try F9D see if it does anything, but IB OCing is already maxed out on these boards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless Intel does something to do it for all motherboards, there is nothing GB can do,i mean the UD3H has the WR for Ivy bridge Frequency LOL, what more can you ask for?


I was just hoping they had a couple hundred mhz hidden somewhere in the board like they did with SB...

Here's to hoping for a revision to IB... Doesn't really matter though. I love my 3770k. The board has been phenomenal, my chip is stupid fast. Just looking to max the OC a bit higher for folding performance, nothing more really.


----------



## Sin0822

thanks guys. Yea on the DVD there are two versions, one is for the XFI on the UD5H the other is for the Recond3D on the Sniper M3 and Sniper3.

The XFI on boards like the ROG Maximus 5 Gene, Bigbang and such is a realtek IC ALC898 or ALC892 for the bigbang and creative software package. Ont he UD5H however GB has added amplifiers for the ALC898 to improve the output and they increase the capacitor count and such, it actually performs very well at 96khz/24-bit. The new audio codecs, well the ALC898 is actually a pretty damn good codec. They have come a long way, as Creative is downsizing, like the CA20k2 has i think been EOLed, that is why reason creative had GB use Recond3Di instead of CA20K2.

Intel might have some tricks, but so far nothing is showing up. Cold will make your CPu go further







lol


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Intel might have some tricks, but so far nothing is showing up. Cold will make your CPu go further
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Yea, 4.6GHz runs around 70C 24/7 Folding. 4.7GHz runs around 79C 24/7 Folding. 4.8 I'm sure will put me into the 90s while folding, so I'm not even gonna bother at this juncture.


----------



## mandrix

Yeah, some of the Creative stuff on the disk is not supported on the UD5H, like DTS Connect. I think you need some Creative hardware for that. I was hoping for DTS Connect to convert mch wav to DTS on the fly for my music work but the analog outs work well for me, and the codec sounds OK for the speakers I have connected, just Polk Monitors. I don't know how well it would fly on my HT setup though.


----------



## Sin0822

when i tested i found that if you set the codec to 24/96 the audio is actually better than at 48/16 or 48/24


----------



## irfy

just checking to see if my system specs appear


----------



## isidore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> What is db?


flash update failed, something to do with the bios. I really don't understand the connection but disabling XMP seems to work, the random db error at boot has stopped. I'm starting to think the mobo has compatibility issues with my corsair memory.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> when i tested i found that if you set the codec to 24/96 the audio is actually better than at 48/16 or 48/24


Mine is always set to 24/96 as I usually work with music at that bit depth/sample rate.


----------



## Mr Frosty

Just updated to F9D and things seem a little better, however I still can't do more then 2 runs of Intel burn test with all RAM tested at anything over 4.2Ghz, always fails after 2 runs.

Upping the Vcore doesn't seem to help so is it a IMC voltage issue?


----------



## sixor

i just got an steelseries ikari mouse and..............

again some boots i have no mouse, wow, this is real crap, i have f11 bios, everything well config in bios, latest intel usb3 and via drivers,

gigabyte really hate usb mouses

----

on other note i am testing a new OC, i had [email protected], i am going for [email protected] to check how temps behave

--

also i had some weird problems with SSD, the ssd basically dissapeared, windows could not boot and stuff, not even on bios, i changed sata cable and sata port, it was very weird and scary


----------



## Ali Man

I'am amazed that no one mentioned it but the Bios F9D has issues with coming back from the sleep mode. I gotta press the power button each time as it doesn't wake up with the mouse. This is a first from all the previous bioses that I've ran.


----------



## recnepsbuh

Hey guys. I have tried a search for my question, but I couldnt seem to find anything. I have a concern with the height and location of the heatsink that covers the chipset on the UD5H. I read a review of this board that stated the pcb of the video card made firm contact with the heatsink when installed in the PCIx16 slot, and this also caused the card to not go down in the slot all the way. I noticed the design of the chipset heatsink has a higher set of fins where the video card goes across it while researching this board, but I didnt realize the video card would lay right on it. I dont have to go into why this would be bad, as I am sure its pretty easy to figure out. This will be my first build, and I think I can finally get the last few parts to finish it and the mobo is one of the last parts I need to get, as it has been the most studied. I found it hard to believe that a company that makes mobos would not take into account the placement of the video card, and have it make direct contact with any of the heatsinks.

If anybody has any experience with this, please let me know. I have also read alot of posts and reviews of problems with this board, so that makes me a little worried as well. Thanks.


----------



## ElectricDelta

I have Gigabyte 580GTX installed on my UD5H, and the card *is* right on the heat sink, with practically zero clearance, but it latched in securely and easily; it wasn't a problem. There is no danger of shorting out, or anything worrisome like that, as there are no components or copper lands right on the edge of the graphics card, that could touch the mobo heat sink.

Edit: I just wanted to add, I wouldn't hesitate to buy this motherboard again, overall I'm well-pleased with it, for its features, performance and stability. Like any new cutting-edge, complex product, some people are always going to have compatibility issues, and they are usually the same ones that make the most noise on the Internet. My last board was also a Gigabyte, a GA-EP45-UD3R, and it was the best I'd ever owned up to then. I used it regularly for over 4 years. Unbelievably, when I first got it, it didn't like my floppy drive that much, and would regularly corrupt floppy discs, very annoying, considering I only used it to install RAID drivers or boot to run MEMTEST. Admittedly, it wasn't all that often, but those were times when I really needed the floppy drive to just work. A BIOS update fixed it, and that was that, no more problems. Just pointing out, Gigabyte does a good job of ironing out even minor issues affecting a small number of users (i.e. who uses floppies any more?), which is the main reason I went with them again.


----------



## recnepsbuh

The card I am planning on using is the EVGA GTX 570(2.5 GB model). I have been going through this thread trying to find something out about this issue. I noticed the Sniper board has the first card slot higher, but the case of the card would probably still make contact with the heatsink. I might be making more out of this than need be, but I am trying to think of everything. I just cant understand why the heatsink is not the same height all the way across. I figure whatever is under the taller part needs a little more heat dissapation, but I would rather the PCB of the card not hit the heatsink.


----------



## hipzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> I have Gigabyte 580GTX installed on my UD5H, and the card *is* right on the heat sink, with practically zero clearance, but it latched in securely and easily; it wasn't a problem. There is no danger of shorting out, or anything worrisome like that, as there are no components or copper lands right on the edge of the graphics card, that could touch the mobo heat sink.


Just wanted to add that I tossed my UD5H based rig together last night and my ASUS GTX570 DCUII fits into the top PCIe slot without any issues.

My board shipped with BIOS F4 and based on this thread I immediately flash to F9d. Had keyboard (Ducky 9008)/mouse (Logi G400) plugged into the red USB ports and didn't have any issues navigating around the BIOS. Plugged my W7 64 thumbdrive into one of the blue USB ports under the Intel NIC and installed Windows in like 10-15 mins. The only installation quirk I ran into was my G400 not working in Windows immediately after a fresh install. Was super confused about why it would work in the BIOS but not Windows. I plugged my old G500 in and after installing motherboard/chipset drivers my G400 worked again.

Will work on overclocking this beast tomorrow.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Just updated to F9D and things seem a little better, however I still can't do more then 2 runs of Intel burn test with all RAM tested at anything over 4.2Ghz, always fails after 2 runs.
> Upping the Vcore doesn't seem to help so is it a IMC voltage issue?


did you increase the LLC? Increase the vcore some more? How you ever OCed before?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> I'am amazed that no one mentioned it but the Bios F9D has issues with coming back from the sleep mode. I gotta press the power button each time as it doesn't wake up with the mouse. This is a first from all the previous bioses that I've ran.


What CPU do you have? If you have Sandy Bridge you have to disable PLL overvoltage in order for sleep to work.
I don't use sleep, so I have no idea if it works for me or not







.


----------



## Sin0822

what if you press a key on the keyboard?

So his issue is that he has to press the power button instead of the mouse to turn his computer on from sleep?


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> What CPU do you have? If you have Sandy Bridge you have to disable PLL overvoltage in order for sleep to work.
> I don't use sleep, so I have no idea if it works for me or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I got an Ivy Bridge setup, just upgraded my specs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> what if you press a key on the keyboard?
> So his issue is that he has to press the power button instead of the mouse to turn his computer on from sleep?


May it be mouse or keyboard, both don't work.


----------



## DeXel

Just checked sleep with F9d, and it works perfectly fine. I have my mouse and keyboard plugged to USB 2.0 ports (red)... Also make sure that you loaded optimized defaults after flashing new bios.


----------



## Ali Man

It automatically goes to the default values as the flashing doesn't save any previous settings.


----------



## Sin0822

it probably might depend on some BIOS setting, or perhaps specific mouse and keyboard. Are you sure you are sleeping and not hibernating?

Did you load optimized defaults after you flashed? Try flashing the BIOS again.


----------



## mandrix

Interesting. After flashing F9d I couldn't load a profile from my flash drive. It could see it, but it didn't load it.


----------



## mandrix

Had to bump offset .005 as well, which automagically bumped my temps up. Might go back to F8.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raiden911*
> 
> Been using the Z77X-UD3H for about the month with no major issues. Only issue I had was the flashing the bios which me to not being able to use my K90 keyboard, but was later fixed with the latest bios. But the two things that got to me was the optical out being able to do 2.0 pcm to my receiver from the get-go due to the VIA sound chipset and now the need for more SATA ports. Luckily, my couz wants to upgrade from his q9450 to the new IB and is willing to get my setup. Just got myself the ud5h+3570k yesterday and that was something that I should have done from the start instead of trying to save *$30*.
> UD5 series for life!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to get everything setup tonite.


nice







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Had another lockup whilst playing BF3.
> rebooted and had a lockup while on the desktop, went into BIOS and it locked up there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways i am finally getting around to trying onboard sound instead of my X-fi PCI to see if that the issue.
> Noob question incoming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned on the onboard in the BIOs.
> Installed from the CreativeSB folder
> Installed from the Realtek folder
> Trying to install from the Creative folder and it says "setup is unable to detect a supported product on your system"
> No DVD drive on comp so i copied the Audio folder from the CD onto a stick
> What am i doing wrong?
> Cheers guys


sounds like a bad OC ...BF3 will require additional voltage,around .030~.050v to stop freezing in BF3 ,as for XF-I =>disable Realtek (i think it was under sound)..., installed X-FI few days back and i'm very pleased








*EDIT*;you may want to run CD drivers and install new drivers on top
http://support.creative.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?catID=1&CatName=Sound+Blaster&subCatID=231&subCatName=MIDI+Keyboards&prodID=19749&prodName=Sound+Blaster+X-Fi+Titanium+HD&bTopTwenty=1&VARSET=prodfaqRODFAQ_19749,VARSET=CategoryID:1


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Interesting. After flashing F9d I couldn't load a profile from my flash drive. It could see it, but it didn't load it.


hey if the newer BIOS has settings which the older didn't, aka pll OV, then the old profiles might not work.


----------



## CaptainHook

Hey guys,

I'm having issues getting my system stable with 2x8gb of Mushkin ram (no CPU overclocking at this point). The ram i'm using is here:

http://www.mushkin.com/Memory/Blackline/997072.aspx

This is my first build and i come from the OSX world so everything is quite new to me and it has been a steep learning curve the last couple of weeks.

Here's what i've tried or am having issue with:

Bios is F8 on UD5H. 2600K i7.
Start with optimized defaults and 16gig - BSOD's and memory management warnings happen very quick in windows 7 (within minutes of boot and just being idle).

Try with just one 8gig stick and it seems okay.

Memtest64+ with 16gig (incorrect slots as per manual instruction) for 4-5hours and everything passes.

Load XMP profile and get quick BSOD's (same warning).
Increase ram voltage and only value it seems stable is on 1.65v which seems odd to me since the link above says it's rated for 1.35v. XMP profile has it at 1.5v (not stable). I leave it at 1.65 anyway. Also the profile sets it to 1600mhz (which i'm okay with) even though link says it's 1866mhz... ?

Run ITB or LinX and get failures on full memory testing at about 14 or so passes which takes about 5-6 hours using almost 15gig of ram in the test (varies with successive attempts). BCLK is default/auto but shows usually 100.10 - 100.12 in bios. Setting manually to 100.10 usually goes better/longer in ITB/LinX testing. (why?)

XMP profile shows ram timings as 10 10 10 27 (i'm confused again since link above says it's 11 11 11 27) so i set manually.

ITB or LinX fails quicker. 7-9 passes. Hard to tell/remember since it takes hours and after days of testing i'm forgetting what happens with what settings. Lol.

Increase Vtt to 1.15 and IMC to 1.145 and ITB/LinX fails after 2 passes or so. And that's where i've gotten to.

Is the ram just not very compatible? I had originally spec'd corsair vengenge for this build but the store i bought from talked me into getting mushkin since they could do a much better price. Mistake?

Any advice? Thanks to anyone that read this novel.


----------



## DeXel

Try to raise VTT to 1.17 and IMC to 1.165. Set DRAM voltage manually to 1.35 (also try 1.5 if does not stay stable) and set timings and speed per specs. If does not help try to lose additional timings and report back whatever happens.

If it stays stable, lower VTT and IMC as much as you can after that.

BTW This is first 8GB low-voltage DIMM I have ever seen...


----------



## EvgeniX

Also update bios to f9d it look better...

With f9d you shoul not need to touch vvt imc...


----------



## CaptainHook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Try to raise VTT to 1.17 and IMC to 1.165. Set DRAM voltage manually to 1.35 (also try 1.5 if does not stay stable) and set timings and speed per specs. If does not help try to lose additional timings and report back whatever happens.
> If it stays stable, lower VTT and IMC as much as you can after that.


Thanks, should i load the XMP profile and then manually set, or load bios optimized defaults and then set ram manually? (i'm not sure the difference it would make)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> BTW This is first 8GB low-voltage DIMM I have ever seen...


Hmmm. I didn't get it because of the low voltage, but because i need low profile ram and want to goto 32gb at some stage so wanted 8gb sticks. Would have got corsair vengence lp like i said above but store operator talked me into this. Hope this wasn't a mistake.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> Also update bios to f9d it look better...
> With f9d you shoul not need to touch vvt imc...


I have the UD5H, i only see up to F8 available?

http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#bios


----------



## HCore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainHook*
> 
> I have the UD5H, i only see up to F8 available?


They're talking about the BETA Bios updates on TT forums here. The OP 1st post has a link also including the latest Bios and previous ones.


----------



## CaptainHook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Try to raise VTT to 1.17 and IMC to 1.165. Set DRAM voltage manually to 1.35 (also try 1.5 if does not stay stable) and set timings and speed per specs.


I went with loading optimized defaults and not loading XMP profile.

Setting DRAM to 1.35 (vtt @ 1.17 and IMC @ 1.165) and windows freezes before finishing booting. (timings @ 11 11 11 27 and speed set to 1866mhz)

DRAM @ 1.5v (everything else as above) and running LinX crashes (actually Linpack) after 35 seconds. Click on windows to shutdown and got a BSOD with memory management warning.


----------



## CaptainHook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HCore*
> 
> They're talking about the BETA Bios updates on TT forums here. The OP 1st post has a link also including the latest Bios and previous ones.


Ah, thank you!


----------



## Sin0822

turn up your VTT to 1.2v and your IMC to 1.195v SB wont run 16GB very easily, well OCed at least, and you might want to check the command rate on the memory, is it T1 or T2? What is your DDR frequency supposed to be? 2133?


----------



## CaptainHook

Hmmm. Just found that the link for my ram on the mushkin site is incorrect, the XMP settings are correct as this is the ram i have:

http://www.ramexperts.com/ddr3/performance-desktop/mushkin-997055-ddr3-udimm-2x8gb-16gb-pc3-12800-10-10-10-27-frostbyte-1-5v.html

(not from that supplier though)

Interestingly i cannot find Mushkin 997055 on the mushkin site.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> turn up your VTT to 1.2v and your IMC to 1.195v SB wont run 16GB very easily, well OCed at least, and you might want to check the command rate on the memory, is it T1 or T2? What is your DDR frequency supposed to be? 2133?


Thanks, will try those VTT/IMC settings with the info i got above.

Timings should be 10 10 10 27, Freq @ 1600mhz

How do i find out command rate and/or set it?

Thanks again.


----------



## CaptainHook

LinX crashed after 23 seconds with VTT @ 1.2v and IMC @ 1.195v.
Loaded XMP profile and manually set timings to 10 10 10 27 (already set by profile but did it anyway) and 1.5 DRAM.

The only thing i've tried in the past 4 days that has helped so far (or at least got best results) is setting DRAM to 1.65volts. Why is that?


----------



## CaptainHook

Command rate was set to 1 (Auto) so i tried it at 2. Same result, LinX crashed in 21 seconds.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> hey if the newer BIOS has settings which the older didn't, aka pll OV, then the old profiles might not work.


Didn't think about that, Sin. Went back to F8 and my profile loaded OK.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> sounds like a bad OC ...BF3 will require additional voltage,around .030~.050v to stop freezing in BF3 ,as for XF-I =>disable Realtek (i think it was under sound)..., installed X-FI few days back and i'm very pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*;you may want to run CD drivers and install new drivers on top
> http://support.creative.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?catID=1&CatName=Sound+Blaster&subCatID=231&subCatName=MIDI+Keyboards&prodID=19749&prodName=Sound+Blaster+X-Fi+Titanium+HD&bTopTwenty=1&VARSET=prodfaqRODFAQ_19749,VARSET=CategoryID:1


No overclock at all coolhandluke. Thats the thing.

It was an old 2007/2008 x-fi. I took the card out Friday night and now running onboard. Will report back in a few days if no lockups...please let it be so


----------



## sixor

guys some help here please

i had my [email protected] @ 1.25 1.26 1.27, i raised vcore since i had some restart just browsing or using windows, even 1.28, benching apps were ok, but i had ramdom restarts without BSOD

this days i was playing assasing creed brotherhood, and mass effect 2, both games crashed a lot, i thought it was the games, but i was very annoyed of crashes and restarts, so i disabled the oc, put everything default on bios, to my surprise, games ran perfect without crashes

so what could be the problem? more vcore? or my mobo just suck,

in short.......i have some ramdom BSOD while doing basic stuff, and a lot of restart on games, and crashes, The OC is the blame but why?

temps are fine BTW

i am becoming crazy, i bough this mobo to oc the crap of the ivy, now i am running stock


----------



## -Ste-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> guys some help here please
> i had my [email protected] @ 1.25 1.26 1.27, i raised vcore since i had some restart just browsing or using windows, even 1.28, benching apps were ok, but i had ramdom restarts without BSOD
> this days i was playing assasing creed brotherhood, and mass effect 2, both games crashed a lot, i thought it was the games, but i was very annoyed of crashes and restarts, so i disabled the oc, put everything default on bios, to my surprise, games ran perfect without crashes
> so what could be the problem? more vcore? or my mobo just suck,
> in short.......i have some ramdom BSOD while doing basic stuff, and a lot of restart on games, and crashes, The OC is the blame but why?
> temps are fine BTW
> i am becoming crazy, i bough this mobo to oc the crap of the ivy, now i am running stock


try and find the error code of the blue screen
if it 101/104 normally more vcore

dont forget tho not all chips are the same try getting your overclock stable aat a lower clock speed


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> try and find the error code of the blue screen
> if it 101/104 normally more vcore
> dont forget tho not all chips are the same try getting your overclock stable aat a lower clock speed


the thing is i can run prime for a long time ok, but the pc restart while doing basic stuff without BSOD, the same goes for gaming, either the game crash or reboot the pc, almost never i have a BSOD, so what is that?

actually now that i think, i can´t even remember the last time i had a BSOD, the pc just restart or hangs

do you need to enable pagefile to have BSOD? i don´t think so, right?

but so far with the cpu stock, no problems after hours of gaming, with my oc 4.5ghz @1.27 @ llc turbo i had tons of crashes and restart, so i know the OC is the one to blame, i just don´t get it,


----------



## alekpr

Hey there all, I've been having some issues with the UD3H freezing/locking up. I've been searching this thread and some of it has been helpful, but sadly it's a lot of people using the UD5H and just a slightly different CPU from mine, so I don't know if the advice given is all that useful for me. By the way, I'm sort of new to this so make your best attempts to be patient with me. Here's the information that I can give you about my machine:

UD3H motherboard, running F11 update
i5 3550 Ivy Bridge 3.3 ghz
8 GB RAM, forgot the brand and model, but I can look it up if it's important

I've looked around a little bit and there was one solution where it said to set the CPU vcore from 1.100 to 1.220, increasing the IMC by .005, and increasing the PCIe clock to 100.01 mhz. This one worked for about two days and then I started running in to issues. If I ever set these settings, the system crashes within about ten minutes. Right now I'm running the default, vanilla settings and so far no crashes.

Another solution that I've tried is setting the RAM voltage to 1.550 (instead of 1.500), activating internal graphics, setting the PCIe clock to 101.00 (instead of 100.00) and turning off C6/C3.

The main problem I'm running in to is that sometimes these settings work, and sometimes it freezes up on me. I'm not sure what's going wrong. It's not an OS thing, I really think it has to do either with the RAM or the motherboard.

If anyone can help me out as to what's going on with my machine, please give some assistance.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainHook*
> 
> LinX crashed after 23 seconds with VTT @ 1.2v and IMC @ 1.195v.
> Loaded XMP profile and manually set timings to 10 10 10 27 (already set by profile but did it anyway) and 1.5 DRAM.
> The only thing i've tried in the past 4 days that has helped so far (or at least got best results) is setting DRAM to 1.65volts. Why is that?


I've got 2x8Gb sticks too. My rated 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24-37 T2, try to use those settings temporary. Voltage at 1.5.
If you have any other computer to test those sticks on, try maybe they are defective.

Ah... you got 2600K, I have heard that Ivy Bridge is better with memory.


----------



## EvgeniX

its interesting... this problem because of 1.35V rated RAM or 16GB... hmmm....


----------



## sixor

well it seems my 3570k is the most power hungry in the world, i just went from 4.5 to 4.3 using all the same settings and 1.27 vcore and so far no crashes in mass effect 2

i just can´t believe it, prime and some other bench apps can´t crash me, but mass effect 2 and assassin creed brother seems to do the works, and those games uses 2-3 cores


----------



## DeXel

Man you are not alone. My 3570K boots with 1.26v for 4.4Ghz, but it is not stable until 1.3v.

I will probably wait for new revision (if there is going to be one), then buy one after selling what I have.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Man you are not alone. My 3570K boots with 1.26v for 4.4Ghz, but it is not stable until 1.3v.
> I will probably wait for new revision (if there is going to be one), then buy one after selling what I have.


$ 25 RMA will help you


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> the thing is i can run prime for a long time ok, but the pc restart while doing basic stuff without BSOD, the same goes for gaming, either the game crash or reboot the pc, almost never i have a BSOD, so what is that?
> actually now that i think, i can´t even remember the last time i had a BSOD, the pc just restart or hangs
> do you need to enable pagefile to have BSOD? i don´t think so, right?
> but so far with the cpu stock, no problems after hours of gaming, with my oc 4.5ghz @1.27 @ llc turbo i had tons of crashes and restart, so i know the OC is the one to blame, i just don´t get it,


god dude, it is called OC. The board is much less crappy than your OC or your CPU. Many programs will stress the CPU in MANY places that prime95 requires over 21 hours to hit. That is why so many people crash with BF3 instead of Prime95.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alekpr*
> 
> Hey there all, I've been having some issues with the UD3H freezing/locking up. I've been searching this thread and some of it has been helpful, but sadly it's a lot of people using the UD5H and just a slightly different CPU from mine, so I don't know if the advice given is all that useful for me. By the way, I'm sort of new to this so make your best attempts to be patient with me. Here's the information that I can give you about my machine:
> UD3H motherboard, running F11 update
> i5 3550 Ivy Bridge 3.3 ghz
> 8 GB RAM, forgot the brand and model, but I can look it up if it's important
> I've looked around a little bit and there was one solution where it said to set the CPU vcore from 1.100 to 1.220, increasing the IMC by .005, and increasing the PCIe clock to 100.01 mhz. This one worked for about two days and then I started running in to issues. If I ever set these settings, the system crashes within about ten minutes. Right now I'm running the default, vanilla settings and so far no crashes.
> Another solution that I've tried is setting the RAM voltage to 1.550 (instead of 1.500), activating internal graphics, setting the PCIe clock to 101.00 (instead of 100.00) and turning off C6/C3.
> The main problem I'm running in to is that sometimes these settings work, and sometimes it freezes up on me. I'm not sure what's going wrong. It's not an OS thing, I really think it has to do either with the RAM or the motherboard.
> If anyone can help me out as to what's going on with my machine, please give some assistance.


Okay here is the deal, forget all of those things you listed as solutions. At this point and time the most recent BIOSes would have already implemented fixes for all of them, that is why you don't see people complain about it anymore. The only people I have been seeing with BSODs like yours are all doing 1 thing, all of them have some PCI device like a sound card, a sound production card or something loaded in and it causes these issues. Or your memory is bad, try run DOS memtest.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainHook*
> 
> LinX crashed after 23 seconds with VTT @ 1.2v and IMC @ 1.195v.
> Loaded XMP profile and manually set timings to 10 10 10 27 (already set by profile but did it anyway) and 1.5 DRAM.
> The only thing i've tried in the past 4 days that has helped so far (or at least got best results) is setting DRAM to 1.65volts. Why is that?


Set to 1.65v then, here is a little secret, i HIGHLY doubt your memory is rated for 1.5v, 1.5v is usually the stock voltage, and a lot of sites that sell ram like to say 1.5v, but the manufacturer will usually state the actual voltage. Corsair does this all over the place, newegg says 1.5v 2133mhz cas9, but low and beheld you cannot do 2133 cas9 without 1.65v, and deep inside corsairs specs does it say you need 1.65v. Just set your memoery to 1.65v you ownt hurt it, back when that kit was released 1.5v was a low voltage kit! lol Lower the vtt and IMC down to like 1.15 and 1.145.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> well it seems my 3570k is the most power hungry in the world, i just went from 4.5 to 4.3 using all the same settings and 1.27 vcore and so far no crashes in mass effect 2
> i just can´t believe it, prime and some other bench apps can´t crash me, but mass effect 2 and assassin creed brother seems to do the works, and those games uses 2-3 cores


Try AIDA64 EE stress tester, tell me if it passes. BTW are you using DVID and offset to OC?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> $ 25 RMA will help you


Yea seriously, Try out the Intel RMA plan, it is $25 and you get a new CPU. Or you can do what all the guys on XS do, bin and sell, bin and sell, they do it for memory, CPUs, GPUs, and they used to do it for motherboards until motherboards stopped having hat kind of control over the OC.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> $ 25 RMA will help you


Wait, I though Intel performance plan going to replace only damaged CPU, not bad clockers







. Did anybody manage to exchange CPU that way?


----------



## CaptainHook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Just set your memoery to 1.65v you ownt hurt it, back when that kit was released 1.5v was a low voltage kit! lol Lower the vtt and IMC down to like 1.15 and 1.145.


Thanks, for the info. Appreciate it!
Tried XMP profile, 1.65v, Vtt and IMC @ 1.15 / 1.145 and got a BSOD after about a minute.

Currently trying the same as above but with vtt/imc back up at 1.2 / 1.195 like your earlier suggestion but with the higher DRAM voltage. Otherwise i'm just gonna try take this ram back and get corsair vengence.


----------



## CaptainHook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainHook*
> 
> Currently trying the same as above but with vtt/imc back up at 1.2 / 1.195 like your earlier suggestion but with the higher DRAM voltage.


Error after 41minutes. Gonna try talk to the guys at the store again. See if they will let me get different ram. Ah well.


----------



## Sin0822

listen don't even bother trying to figure it out, return the memory and get a new set. Also try not to match two 8GB sets, just try to get a 16GB set. There is a QVL(qualified vendor list) of modules that are tested and work perfect: http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#memory%20support%20list

you can go off that.

I use kingston kits, one is hyperX 2133MHz cas 11 16B kit, it works perfectly, even with sandy bridge







It is teh one I used for my reviews, might want to look into that, there is also a cas9 1600mhz version and it is pretty cheap.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104169


----------



## CaptainHook

I wanted 16gb made up of 2x8gb sticks so that i could upgrade to 32gb of ram at some stage by just getting another 16gb.. do you not recommend doing that?

I'll have to see what the store has that's on that list and is also low profile (i have the noctua d14).

This is the store i got all my parts from, would this ram be okay?

http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/components/componentview.asp?partid=15636

They only have cheap kingston stuff listed.


----------



## Sin0822

is the mushkin you had 2x8GB?

yea the thing is kingston is very good quality memory, in many cases better than the others, the reason i suggest them is because as a failsafe they will work better.

I don't have experience with the 8GB modules, they are pretty new, but I don't think your Sandy Bridge will easily handle 32GB of memory.

BTW when you ran memtest did you run in DOS? Also SuperPI 32M is a pretty good memory tester, you might also want to give it a shot.


----------



## alekpr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Okay here is the deal, forget all of those things you listed as solutions. At this point and time the most recent BIOSes would have already implemented fixes for all of them, that is why you don't see people complain about it anymore. The only people I have been seeing with BSODs like yours are all doing 1 thing, all of them have some PCI device like a sound card, a sound production card or something loaded in and it causes these issues. Or your memory is bad, try run DOS memtest.


Well I wasn't running in to BSODs, I was running in to hard freezes, where literally everything just stops, including the sound. I've not done a memtest yet, but I'll do one soon. The only devices that I have plugged in are a graphics card and a wireless network card (which is kind of old I admit, circa 2005 ish?). If it makes any difference, I'm using the optical sound out. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Sin0822

unplug that card see if you still get the same thing.


----------



## irfy

Thought id give F9d a proper go. This time i disabled IGPU (so no Lucid MVP) managed 5GHz 50 x 100. 16GB Samsung green left at 1866 9 9 9 27 1T 1.4V. (Turbo memory and Extreme settings work)

LLC set to extreme had to bump up voltage aswell pullin around 1.534v when stressed. OCCT passed 1 hr test. Done 1 hr of gaming no probs.

Mobo is superb exceeding my expectations now, Only the 1 issue for me still. (sometime when i start it ON's n OFF's 4 times before booting fine retaining the overclock.

Id give the UD5 11/10 if this issue gets sorted. Come on GB:thumb:


----------



## coolhandluke41

any recommendations for nice, cheap,digital multimeter guys ??


----------



## barkeater

Radioshack $20. digital is not necessary. analog works just as good


----------



## alekpr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> unplug that card see if you still get the same thing.


Which one?


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alekpr*
> 
> Which one?


I guess he means the wireless network card alek.


----------



## zoson

Recently got a Z77X UD3R. I'm having wake from sleep issues, and am on F9D. The system is very basic and running 100% stock:
i5 3570
8GB Mushkin 1600MHz 8-8-8-24 1.5v
MSI GTX 570
OCZ Vertex 3
2TB WD Green
NZXT Hale 650W

From going through the thread, I've seen people suggest the following to resolve sleep problems:
1. Use the red USB ports
2. Try a bios other than F9d
3. Try the power button
4. Try the power button 3 times

Did I miss anything? Basically the rig went to sleep last night and wouldn't wake up.


----------



## Mr Frosty

Guy finally bought an SSD drive and it's only putting out 205mb/s read instead of 500mb+

Do I need to manually set the board to run in Sata 3?


----------



## Sin0822

noit runs at SATA from the start, however please plug it into the white SATA slots.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Recently got a Z77X UD3R. I'm having wake from sleep issues, and am on F9D. The system is very basic and running 100% stock:
> i5 3570
> 8GB Mushkin 1600MHz 8-8-8-24 1.5v
> MSI GTX 570
> OCZ Vertex 3
> 2TB WD Green
> NZXT Hale 650W
> From going through the thread, I've seen people suggest the following to resolve sleep problems:
> 1. Use the red USB ports
> 2. Try a bios other than F9d
> 3. Try the power button
> 4. Try the power button 3 times
> Did I miss anything? Basically the rig went to sleep last night and wouldn't wake up.


did you try the power button?


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Recently got a Z77X UD3R. I'm having wake from sleep issues, and am on F9D. The system is very basic and running 100% stock:
> i5 3570


Sounds like you may have wireless mouse and keyboard? If so try wired? Also from reading around the Webb, it sounds like these boards like to have CMOS reset, then optimized defaults loaded before flashing or tweaking. I have even seen where some claim they had to remove the battery, but that was for a more serious issue. Sooooo, if i had your issue, i would see if it was a wireless issue, of not i would clear CMOS, flash the original BIOS and go from there.
Don't forget if you are RAID to re-enable it before going into windows after a CMOS or BIOS flash.


----------



## zoson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> did you try the power button?


Yes, but just once. I didn't do the 'press it a few times'. I'll be able to try some things tonight when I get to the machine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Sounds like you may have wireless mouse and keyboard? If so try wired? Also from reading around the Webb, it sounds like these boards like to have CMOS reset, then optimized defaults loaded before flashing or tweaking. I have even seen where some claim they had to remove the battery, but that was for a more serious issue. Sooooo, if i had your issue, i would see if it was a wireless issue, of not i would clear CMOS, flash the original BIOS and go from there.
> Don't forget if you are RAID to re-enable it before going into windows after a CMOS or BIOS flash.


I'm curious how you jumped to this conclusion. It seems like a rather drastic jump, not to mention wrong. The keyboard/mouse are wired. They were plugged into the blue ports.

Flashing a new bios resets the board to defaults/optimal settings. I upgraded from F7 to F9d when the board arrived, so I'm sure that it's already been reset. This has been stated several times recently... Especially on the last page of this thread.


----------



## Shadowspawn

(Moved this from top-level thread, I meant to post it in this thread, not to clutter the top of the forum).









Been reading these board for a while, and have gotten a lot of good help and learning from them. Never had a question before, but now I do! This is a strange one, that I have not seen reported in this thread before.

I have a GA-Z77X-UD3H motherboard with an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 CPU Cooler.

Everything normally works fine with the CPU cooler. It spins a bit when the BIOS loads, then stops. When I boot into Windows, it spins up and runs 900 - 1000 RPM (as reported by CPUID HWMonitor). All is normal, until I run PRIME95.

I go though the PRIME95 configuration, I pick "In-place large FFTs", and click start test.

The instant that the test starts running in earnest, the CPU fan stop spinning! The CPU begins to heat up, but the fan does not kick in.

Not only that, but HWMonitor can't find the fan any longer. It has completely disappeared off the HWMonitor display. Not just sitting there at 0 RPM. Gone!

If I stop the test and reboot the system, the fan is still gone. The fan does not spin, and HWMonitor cannot see it. Yet, the BIOS is OK starting up the system (I believe that the fan still twitches a bit when the BIOS initializes).

If I unplug the system and let it sit for a bit, the fan usually comes back to normal (spins up when Windows begins to load, idles at 900 - 1000 RPM).










This is really strange, has anyone ever seen anything like this? I'm afraid to play with it much more, because I'm afraid that I will permanently disable the CPU fan somehow.

Other relevant details:

Since installing the fan, I have re-flashed the BIOS (it had the latest non-Beta F11 BIOS both before and after this problem was noticed). I have cleared the CMOS, and loaded optimized defaults. The BIOS settings are mostly stock. Just changed Intel Turbo Boost to "enabled", set the memory XMP to "Profile1", and disabled Legacy USB Support.

The fan settings in the BIOS are "Auto" "Normal" (I also tried "PWM" "Normal" and "Voltage" "Normal"and the same thing happened).

I have double-checked that the 4-pin fan connector is well seated on the pins, multiple times.

The whole system looks like this:

* GA-Z77X-UD3H, F11 BIOS
* Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 CPU Cooler
* Intel I5 3750K
* G.SKILL 8GB (2 x 4GB) Ripjaws X Series DDR3 1600MHz
* 2x Western Digital 1 TB RE4 SATA 3 Gb in RAID 1 configuration, plugged into the Intel connectors
* Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC 2 GB
* SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold
* Uspeed PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Combo/ USB 3.0 Hub & USB 2.0 All-in-1 Card Reader
* Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive
* Linksys WMP600N PCI Wireless Adapter
* LCD Monitor plugged into the HDMI port on the Radeon card.
* Windows 7 SP1, 64-bit

Not running Speedfan, EZTune6, or anything like that.

I am running Intel Turbo Boost.

Does anyone have any suggestions or insights into this problem?

Thanks!


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> I'm curious how you jumped to this conclusion. It seems like a rather drastic jump, not to mention wrong. The keyboard/mouse are wired. They were plugged into the blue ports.
> Flashing a new bios resets the board to defaults/optimal settings. I upgraded from F7 to F9d when the board arrived, so I'm sure that it's already been reset. This has been stated several times recently... Especially on the last page of this thread.


I guess I missed the boat on them being wired, sorry.
I guess Pulling the battery and shorting the terminals and flashing and reloading optimal's are the last thing I would do to make sure before doing an RMA on a board.

I have a UD5H on the way back to Gigabyte because it would not stay in sleep mode, heh, just to name only one of its issues. The darned thing would wake up to do a random reboot sometimes!
I too went wired and with minimal soft & hardware to make sure and it still misbehaved. I tried it all, even the one stick of RAM at a time with a Gigabyte tech on the phone.

Anyway, can't wait to see how you get out of it.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowspawn*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (Moved this from top-level thread, I meant to post it in this thread, not to clutter the top of the forum).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been reading these board for a while, and have gotten a lot of good help and learning from them. Never had a question before, but now I do! This is a strange one, that I have not seen reported in this thread before.
> I have a GA-Z77X-UD3H motherboard with an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 CPU Cooler.
> Everything normally works fine with the CPU cooler. It spins a bit when the BIOS loads, then stops. When I boot into Windows, it spins up and runs 900 - 1000 RPM (as reported by CPUID HWMonitor). All is normal, until I run PRIME95.
> I go though the PRIME95 configuration, I pick "In-place large FFTs", and click start test.
> The instant that the test starts running in earnest, the CPU fan stop spinning! The CPU begins to heat up, but the fan does not kick in.
> Not only that, but HWMonitor can't find the fan any longer. It has completely disappeared off the HWMonitor display. Not just sitting there at 0 RPM. Gone!
> If I stop the test and reboot the system, the fan is still gone. The fan does not spin, and HWMonitor cannot see it. Yet, the BIOS is OK starting up the system (I believe that the fan still twitches a bit when the BIOS initializes).
> If I unplug the system and let it sit for a bit, the fan usually comes back to normal (spins up when Windows begins to load, idles at 900 - 1000 RPM).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is really strange, has anyone ever seen anything like this? I'm afraid to play with it much more, because I'm afraid that I will permanently disable the CPU fan somehow.
> Other relevant details:
> Since installing the fan, I have re-flashed the BIOS (it had the latest non-Beta F11 BIOS both before and after this problem was noticed). I have cleared the CMOS, and loaded optimized defaults. The BIOS settings are mostly stock. Just changed Intel Turbo Boost to "enabled", set the memory XMP to "Profile1", and disabled Legacy USB Support.
> The fan settings in the BIOS are "Auto" "Normal" (I also tried "PWM" "Normal" and "Voltage" "Normal"and the same thing happened).
> I have double-checked that the 4-pin fan connector is well seated on the pins, multiple times.
> The whole system looks like this:
> * GA-Z77X-UD3H, F11 BIOS
> * Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 CPU Cooler
> * Intel I5 3750K
> * G.SKILL 8GB (2 x 4GB) Ripjaws X Series DDR3 1600MHz
> * 2x Western Digital 1 TB RE4 SATA 3 Gb in RAID 1 configuration, plugged into the Intel connectors
> * Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC 2 GB
> * SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold
> * Uspeed PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Combo/ USB 3.0 Hub & USB 2.0 All-in-1 Card Reader
> * Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive
> * Linksys WMP600N PCI Wireless Adapter
> * LCD Monitor plugged into the HDMI port on the Radeon card.
> * Windows 7 SP1, 64-bit
> Not running Speedfan, EZTune6, or anything like that.
> I am running Intel Turbo Boost.
> Does anyone have any suggestions or insights into this problem?
> Thanks!


Well, you could try the latest beta F12g and see if that does it for ya. If not (your right, that is a weird problem) I would try using the stock cpu heat sink and see if you get the same behavior. If so, likely the board. If not, the aftermarket cpu cooler. Is the AF 7 new, or have you used it on previous system?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowspawn*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (Moved this from top-level thread, I meant to post it in this thread, not to clutter the top of the forum).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been reading these board for a while, and have gotten a lot of good help and learning from them. Never had a question before, but now I do! This is a strange one, that I have not seen reported in this thread before.
> I have a GA-Z77X-UD3H motherboard with an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 CPU Cooler.
> Everything normally works fine with the CPU cooler. It spins a bit when the BIOS loads, then stops. When I boot into Windows, it spins up and runs 900 - 1000 RPM (as reported by CPUID HWMonitor). All is normal, until I run PRIME95.
> I go though the PRIME95 configuration, I pick "In-place large FFTs", and click start test.
> The instant that the test starts running in earnest, the CPU fan stop spinning! The CPU begins to heat up, but the fan does not kick in.
> Not only that, but HWMonitor can't find the fan any longer. It has completely disappeared off the HWMonitor display. Not just sitting there at 0 RPM. Gone!
> If I stop the test and reboot the system, the fan is still gone. The fan does not spin, and HWMonitor cannot see it. Yet, the BIOS is OK starting up the system (I believe that the fan still twitches a bit when the BIOS initializes).
> If I unplug the system and let it sit for a bit, the fan usually comes back to normal (spins up when Windows begins to load, idles at 900 - 1000 RPM).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is really strange, has anyone ever seen anything like this? I'm afraid to play with it much more, because I'm afraid that I will permanently disable the CPU fan somehow.
> Other relevant details:
> Since installing the fan, I have re-flashed the BIOS (it had the latest non-Beta F11 BIOS both before and after this problem was noticed). I have cleared the CMOS, and loaded optimized defaults. The BIOS settings are mostly stock. Just changed Intel Turbo Boost to "enabled", set the memory XMP to "Profile1", and disabled Legacy USB Support.
> The fan settings in the BIOS are "Auto" "Normal" (I also tried "PWM" "Normal" and "Voltage" "Normal"and the same thing happened).
> I have double-checked that the 4-pin fan connector is well seated on the pins, multiple times.
> The whole system looks like this:
> * GA-Z77X-UD3H, F11 BIOS
> * Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 CPU Cooler
> * Intel I5 3750K
> * G.SKILL 8GB (2 x 4GB) Ripjaws X Series DDR3 1600MHz
> * 2x Western Digital 1 TB RE4 SATA 3 Gb in RAID 1 configuration, plugged into the Intel connectors
> * Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC 2 GB
> * SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold
> * Uspeed PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Combo/ USB 3.0 Hub & USB 2.0 All-in-1 Card Reader
> * Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive
> * Linksys WMP600N PCI Wireless Adapter
> * LCD Monitor plugged into the HDMI port on the Radeon card.
> * Windows 7 SP1, 64-bit
> Not running Speedfan, EZTune6, or anything like that.
> I am running Intel Turbo Boost.
> Does anyone have any suggestions or insights into this problem?
> Thanks
> 
> 
> !


If you for instance, instead of setting the fan mode to whatever, just just disable under CPU SMART Fan control, what happens then?

Have you tried another fan or another header?

There are more than just 1 setting for the fan. There is a fan mode setting which you select PWm for 4-pin or voltage for 3-pin, and then there is CPU SMART fan control, for the smart fan control, select disable.


----------



## BobLeProf

My UD5H was often waking randomly from sleep, so I disabled Wake on Lan as it is a feature I don't use anyway. Since then, no random wake ups (perhaps a Win8 Homegroup problem). I should check it again, but I have been dealing with some browser freezes under Win8 and that's been a higher priority. I think that the few issues I still have are mostly Windows 8 or Google Chrome related, not MB issues (though it's not always easy for me to tell).


----------



## Sin0822

well yes the boards are in validation with windows 8, as since the nee UEFi has a lto to do with the OS itself now, that is still in the process. What is your fascination with windows8?


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> well yes the boards are in validation with windows 8, as since the nee UEFi has a lto to do with the OS itself now, that is still in the process. What is your fascination with windows8?


Haha! I've been playing around with it and found it to be better than I expected, enough not to really have a compelling reason to switch back to 7 (I love the start-up speed, and it seems to be a slight improvement in performance). But you have a point, if I have a problem that could be Windows 8 related, going back to 7 will tell me if I'm right or if it's the motherboard. Right now 8 is on my SSD and 7 is on an older hard drive, so laziness and inertia get in the way of making a change ;-)


----------



## CaptainHook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> is the mushkin you had 2x8GB?


Yes it is. The store replaced my ram set with another (still mushkin, as changing brands will cost me full price) and with optimized defaults + XMP profile (1.5v) LinX cleared 20 passes at full no problems!







Took 7 hours but i'm so relieved, just wish i could get the last 4 days back! One of my previous sticks must have been faulty as it appears to be working as it should now.

Thanks for your help Sin, really appreciated. I'll probably be back when i start trying to OC. Haha.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainHook*
> 
> Yes it is. The store replaced my ram set with another (still mushkin, as changing brands will cost me full price) and with optimized defaults + XMP profile (1.5v) LinX cleared 20 passes at full no problems!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took 7 hours but i'm so relieved, just wish i could get the last 4 days back! One of my previous sticks must have been faulty as it appears to be working as it should now.
> Thanks for your help Sin, really appreciated. I'll probably be back when i start trying to OC. Haha.


new RAM rated 1.5V or 1.35V?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainHook*
> 
> Yes it is. The store replaced my ram set with another (still mushkin, as changing brands will cost me full price) and with optimized defaults + XMP profile (1.5v) LinX cleared 20 passes at full no problems!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took 7 hours but i'm so relieved, just wish i could get the last 4 days back! One of my previous sticks must have been faulty as it appears to be working as it should now.
> Thanks for your help Sin, really appreciated. I'll probably be back when i start trying to OC. Haha.


Hey mate, good to hear! Yea that is why i said memtest86+ but in DOS, usually that is the best tester, i have had the windows one pass many times, but not the DOS one. Memory is usually the issue, people test in windows and they say it is fine, but usually in windows. Did you get the same kit?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> new RAM rated 1.5V or 1.35V?


must be 1.5v, i don't think mushkin has released anything new in a while. Right?


----------



## zoson

Ok, I had some time to do some troubleshooting... It isn't a sleep issue... Something happened to the rig last night.

The rig won't power on at all, so I unplugged it, waited a minute, and it still wouldn't power on. Switched to BIOS2, still wouldn't power on. Popped the CMOS battery, waited 5 minutes, put it back in, and it still wouldn't turn on.

When I've unplugged the rig for a few minutes, if I plug it back in and hit power, the lights come on for a second, then go off again.

I'm going to bring the whole thing home tomorrow and try different RAM, PSU and GPU... But I doubt it's any of those. I'm really suspecting the board... Sound like a motherboard issue to you guys?


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Ok, I had some time to do some troubleshooting... It isn't a sleep issue... Something happened to the rig last night.
> The rig won't power on at all, so I unplugged it, waited a minute, and it still wouldn't power on. Switched to BIOS2, still wouldn't power on. Popped the CMOS battery, waited 5 minutes, put it back in, and it still wouldn't turn on.
> When I've unplugged the rig for a few minutes, if I plug it back in and hit power, the lights come on for a second, then go off again.
> I'm going to bring the whole thing home tomorrow and try different RAM, PSU and GPU... But I doubt it's any of those. I'm really suspecting the board... Sound like a motherboard issue to you guys?


I wish I could find the post that described how a guy brought his UD5H or UD3H board back to life as he called it,. I visit too many boards I guess. I don't remember the exact sequence, but do remember he disconnected the psu, pulled the battery and shorted across its terminals for several seconds, and held down the power button for 10 seconds.

He then fired it back up and was all good again. Good luck.


----------



## r0ach

Got a hard freeze while watching a youtube movie with F9c. Thought this issue would be fixed by now. It seems to happen at random once every 2-3 days.

Is this a BIOS bug, or does the thing set some voltage value abnormally high if I leave everything on auto except CPU Vcore, causing the PCH or something to overheat?


----------



## CaptainHook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey mate, good to hear! Yea that is why i said memtest86+ but in DOS, usually that is the best tester, i have had the windows one pass many times, but not the DOS one. Memory is usually the issue, people test in windows and they say it is fine, but usually in windows. Did you get the same kit?
> must be 1.5v, i don't think mushkin has released anything new in a while. Right?


Yeah i did run memtest86+ in DOS off a USB i made but it ran for 5+ hours with no problem. Guess i needed to run it for longer. Funny that the errors happened much quicker in windows (BSOD within minutes of booting at 1.5v) but would apparently take hours (i assume in my case) to show in dos memtest.

Yes, same mushkin kit - 1.5v

Thanks!


----------



## CaptainHook

Back with another question!

Error 97 on the motherboard - "Console Output Device Connect"

I'm trying to use an nvidia GT 120 with this board (got from ebay) alongside a GTX 580 and that's the error showing on the motherboard. Any ideas what it means? I get that it means there's an error with the console output device, does that mean this card is just not going to work? I have tried with just the one card and in both slots.

Thanks!


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> I wish I could find the post that described how a guy brought his UD5H or UD3H board back to life as he called it,. I visit too many boards I guess. I don't remember the exact sequence, but do remember he disconnected the psu, pulled the battery and shorted across its terminals for several seconds, and held down the power button for 10 seconds.
> He then fired it back up and was all good again. Good luck.


yes it was me

sounds exactly the same problem

try searching for my post

as i remember

-unplug everything, power cables, gpu, etc, just leave cpu and ram
-remove battery
-with a screwdriver i touched both battery connectors, at the same time i pressed clear cmos button for some seconds, did this several times, also clear cmos by jumpers
-connected power, and came back to life XD
good luck

no problem after that


----------



## jamdox

So I had some LEDs plugged into a fan header, and stupid cut the LED strip while the system was on







apparently causing a short.

Now this header doesn't work for powering the LED strip, although others do.

My question: is there a way to fix this fan header?


----------



## hipzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> Thanks ! I have a spare fan so I will see how the other 2 fan headers behave.
> I could also measure the PWM waveform on Monday if necessary and see what is going on!
> Edit: Further info on other fan headers :
> FAN1: Runs "slower", varies
> FAN2: Runs "faster", varies
> FAN3: Same as Fan2, varies
> FAN4: Always seems to run FULL SPEED, no variation!
> - Steve


Are other UD5H owners experiencing the same thing? I've got my front intake fans plugged into FAN1/2, and FAN1 is definitely spinning at almost half the RPM of FAN2. I've swapped them just to make sure one of my new fans wasn't bad but got the same results.

Is this by design or an oversight in the BIOS?

I guess I could run a Y-splitter off of FAN2 or buy 3-pin extender to get all the way to FAN3, but that seems a little silly that the headers would all run fans at different speeds.


----------



## DeXel

They are not going fullspeed unless it becomes too hot. You can either put them full speed in the BIOS, or regulate fan speeds with Easytune. Also switch to voltage mode in the bios if you use 3 pin fans.


----------



## hipzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> They are not going fullspeed unless it becomes too hot. You can either put them full speed in the BIOS, or regulate fan speeds with Easytune. Also switch to voltage mode in the bios if you use 3 pin fans.


Thanks for the tip! Will check that out in a few and see what's up.


----------



## bolton12

Hi guys







ive just built my new system

Z77x-d3h
3750k
evga cooler
evga 670 gfx
Bit fenix colossus case
2x1tb raid setup
8gb corsair vengence low prof

Anyhow thought id had a go at overclocking i disabled the 4 bottom power saving features as mentioned in this thread and booted to 4.5ghz no problems...
So i tried 3dmark,etc working fine

So keeping the voltage on auto i have managed to boot at 4.7 and its passing all test just need a few hours on BF3 with it now...is this normal ????? i heard after 4.5 you need to up the voltage

I'm on the F8 bios


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamdox*
> 
> So I had some LEDs plugged into a fan header, and stupid cut the LED strip while the system was on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> apparently causing a short.
> Now this header doesn't work for powering the LED strip, although others do.
> My question: is there a way to fix this fan header?


I shorted a fan header on a Z68 board somehow fooling around while it was powered up. I don't think it's fixable unless your tech levels are really high. An option would be get an RMA with Gigabyte directly and let them fix it, they are pretty good about this stuff. I sent a board in a while back for a different problem and the total turnaround time after they received the board and back to my door was 11 days, and they shipped it back 3 day UPS. (California to Florida).


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Got a hard freeze while watching a youtube movie with F9c. *Thought this issue would be fixed by now.* It seems to happen at random once every 2-3 days.
> Is this a BIOS bug, or does the thing set some voltage value abnormally high if I leave everything on auto except CPU Vcore, causing the PCH or something to overheat?


what "issue" ?.if you freezing ,i would make sure you have proper video drivers (proper settings in NV control panel) or your have bad OC (CPU or GPU ) ..may want to check you RAM when you really board (memtest86+),i'm on F9d and this Bios build is the best one yet


----------



## 2therock

While waiting for my board to return, I wanted to ask about the on-board and Ivy Bridge graphics. Along with Samsung Green Ram opinions.

I run racing games GTR Evolution and GTR2 using a SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16. It runs very well and never gets over 40c. I don't think it is as taxing as some games.

I think I seen in the BIOS where I can disable both of the onboard/chip graphics.
I wanted to ask here if disabling them is suggested. I believe I seen in the "Locks & Freezes" thread for this board they were going back and forth with this looking for rime and reason.

I read nothing but good stuff on the Samsung Green RAM, I run 16GB in 4X4. Just looking for comments? I see Sin0822 likes the Kingston and has commented Gigabyte and Kingston have a good rapport. It temps me to swap over.


----------



## zoson

Thanks for the responses 2therock, and your tips sixor. I will try tonight after work and report back.


----------



## irfy

Still messing with F9d. This time tried enabling IGPU + lucid (version 2.1.112.21449) newer versions of lucid dont work proper especially the latest version. Crashes 3d11 + vantage. The older version seems to work fine. GB website lists only the above version, id recommend stickin with it.

Cant seem to save profiles on f9d to USB. Well it does save the profile but just doesnt load them from USB. (even if they were created on F9d)

5GHz 50X 100 still working strong some heavy testing tonight.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> well it seems my 3570k is the most power hungry in the world, i just went from 4.5 to 4.3 using all the same settings and 1.27 vcore and so far no crashes in mass effect 2
> i just can´t believe it, prime and some other bench apps can´t crash me, but mass effect 2 and assassin creed brother seems to do the works, and those games uses 2-3 cores


yeah, that's the case for me too.

prime 27.7 with avx instructions apparently stresses the cpu in a different way than games.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> They are not going fullspeed unless it becomes too hot. You can either put them full speed in the BIOS, or regulate fan speeds with Easytune. Also switch to voltage mode in the bios if you use 3 pin fans.


Voltage mode is only available on the cpu fan header. If you want to control the fans on other headers you have to have pwm fans (i.e., 4-pin). Otherwise they will just run at full speed, or more precisely, they get the full voltage for that fan header.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> yeah, that's the case for me too.
> prime 27.7 with avx instructions apparently stresses the cpu in a different way than games.


yep, actaully i knew that from my old amd, prime was fine but crysis 2 crashed my pc

i guess prime is ok for a quick test around 10min, then we should test a lot of games

right now i am doing 4.4 ghz @1.27, no crashes so far in mass effect 2 and assasin creed revelations, if i put the cpu @4.5 i have crash in the game or reboots without BSOD


----------



## zoson

Prime sucks because it doesn't stress your IMC/UCLK.
It's the cop-out of stress testing programs.
The truth of the matter is the memory controller was not on chip when Prime was developed. It is outdated code that can not correctly stress test today's modern CPU's.

*Period.*

Use LinX or IBT updated to the latest linpack binaries, test with all memory in diagnostic mode, and all your stress testing troubles will be resolved.

FACT: Intel uses linpack to stress test their processors - and suggests that enthusiasts use LinX as an interface.


----------



## chocoman

Hi I have UD5H board too and I have been a sticky reader of this thread for the past few weeks. I have soo many questions. ok so, when I run the Aida64 test to stress my cache, it occasionally fails with "hardware failure". Is this a fluke as sometimes there are absolutely no problems!! I memtested my RAM extensively (left it running overnight) and... no problems. I stress tested my CPU, FPU, Memory, GPU, and local disks with Aida64 (all except cache) and run into no problems at all. I was wondering if there's something wrong with my CPU or motherboard and what's the best way to get by this problem... (if there's one).. or maybe its Aida64









Few things of interest, I'm running Win7 64bit on 7200rpm 1TB with Intel Smart Cache with an old OCZ Vertex 3 (60GB). (RAID configuration) I installed all latest "released" drivers and bios. (F8, Intel INFs.., Realtek Sound.. etc.etc.) I have an EVGA GTX 670 and I use Lucid Virtu to intel quick sync the decoding/encoding work... I didn't do any too crazy overclock , I set everything to "auto" in bios and up the multiplier of my cores to 42, 42, 41, 40 (i7 3770k) with default BCLK. From CPU-Z, Vcore is around 1.14 and about 65-70C during the stress tests..

Now some problems I noticed, when I play games, random things happens. First, "sometimes" the audio of the computer would completely disappear.. I have to unplug/replug to get it working again.. its weird. (Realtek driver problems?? I've reinstalled the latest driver a bazillion times already.. !!! ): ) Another thing is sometimes, gaming causes a BSOD and the failure cause is random (win32k.sys... usb3.dll thing... network.dll thing... random random dll/sys file thing) This was also happened once when playing youtube videos in IE9!!?! @[email protected]

Help please







I hope my board isn't faulty.. does this happen because of F8 bios? Should I try F9d? Where do I get it, tweaktown? Will they release F9 bios officially soon?? THANKS awesome people!!!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chocoman*
> 
> Hi I have UD5H board too and I have been a sticky reader of this thread for the past few weeks. I have soo many questions. ok so, when I run the Aida64 test to stress my cache, it occasionally fails with "hardware failure". Is this a fluke as sometimes there are absolutely no problems!! I memtested my RAM extensively (left it running overnight) and... no problems. I stress tested my CPU, FPU, Memory, GPU, and local disks with Aida64 (all except cache) and run into no problems at all. I was wondering if there's something wrong with my CPU or motherboard and what's the best way to get by this problem... (if there's one).. or maybe its Aida64
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few things of interest, I'm running Win7 64bit on 7200rpm 1TB with Intel Smart Cache with an old OCZ Vertex 3 (60GB). (RAID configuration) I installed all latest "released" drivers and bios. (F8, Intel INFs.., Realtek Sound.. etc.etc.) I have an EVGA GTX 670 and I use Lucid Virtu to intel quick sync the decoding/encoding work... I didn't do any too crazy overclock , I set everything to "auto" in bios and up the multiplier of my cores to 42, 42, 41, 40 (i7 3770k) with default BCLK. From CPU-Z, Vcore is around 1.14 and about 65-70C during the stress tests..
> Now some problems I noticed, when I play games, random things happens. First, "sometimes" the audio of the computer would completely disappear.. I have to unplug/replug to get it working again.. its weird. (Realtek driver problems?? I've reinstalled the latest driver a bazillion times already.. !!! ): ) Another thing is sometimes, gaming causes a BSOD and the failure cause is random (win32k.sys... usb3.dll thing... network.dll thing... random random dll/sys file thing) This was also happened once when playing youtube videos in IE9!!?! @[email protected]
> Help please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope my board isn't faulty.. does this happen because of F8 bios? Should I try F9d? Where do I get it, tweaktown? Will they release F9 bios officially soon?? THANKS awesome people!!!


try F9D, but are you using any other hardware? any add-in cards?

Your OC, what about your memory? Did you run memtest86+ after you boot into windows? or before?

What happens if you just load optimized defaults, and disable Virtu.

You aren't using a beta version of ADIA are you?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoson*
> 
> Prime sucks because it doesn't stress your IMC/UCLK.
> It's the cop-out of stress testing programs.
> The truth of the matter is the memory controller was not on chip when Prime was developed. It is outdated code that can not correctly stress test today's modern CPU's.
> *Period.*
> Use LinX or IBT updated to the latest linpack binaries, test with all memory in diagnostic mode, and all your stress testing troubles will be resolved.
> FACT: Intel uses linpack to stress test their processors - and suggests that enthusiasts use LinX as an interface.


intel recommended to us(media) to start using AID64 instead of LinX and to start telling users not to use LinX.


----------



## chocoman

Quote:


> try F9D, but are you using any other hardware? any add-in cards?
> 
> Your OC, what about your memory? Did you run memtest86+ after you boot into windows? or before?
> 
> What happens if you just load optimized defaults, and disable Virtu.
> 
> You aren't using a beta version of ADIA are you?


Hi, no add-in cards other than the graphics card..







I have USB 3 going to the front provided by Gigabyte that comes with the board and disc drive of course..

Memory is using an XMP profile clocked in at 1600MHz, 8GB Dual Channel (2X4GB) Patriot Memory G2

When I load optimized defaults it doesn't boot because of AHCI configuration... changing that to RAID, it boots fine (this is because I set up intel smart response, SSD caching) and crashes persists even without Virtu (tested for two weeks like two weeks ago..







)

Haha, no its not beta.. its Aida64 2.50 release version









I'm always weary about testing unreleased BIOS







, but I've seen people here happy with F9d.. if I flash F9d, how easy is it to go back to F8 if problems arise :O ? oh and where do I get F9d, I haven't figured that out yet


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Voltage mode is only available on the cpu fan header. If you want to control the fans on other headers you have to have pwm fans (i.e., 4-pin). Otherwise they will just run at full speed, or more precisely, they get the full voltage for that fan header.


Correct about BIOS voltage part, but Sys_Fan 1 can be controlled by voltage too, and I tested it.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chocoman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> try F9D, but are you using any other hardware? any add-in cards?
> Your OC, what about your memory? Did you run memtest86+ after you boot into windows? or before?
> What happens if you just load optimized defaults, and disable Virtu.
> You aren't using a beta version of ADIA are you?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, no add-in cards other than the graphics card..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have USB 3 going to the front provided by Gigabyte that comes with the board and disc drive of course..
> Memory is using an XMP profile clocked in at 1600MHz, 8GB Dual Channel (2X4GB) Patriot Memory G2
> When I load optimized defaults it doesn't boot because of AHCI configuration... changing that to RAID, it boots fine (this is because I set up intel smart response, SSD caching) and crashes persists even without Virtu (tested for two weeks like two weeks ago..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Haha, no its not beta.. its Aida64 2.50 release version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm always weary about testing unreleased BIOS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I've seen people here happy with F9d.. if I flash F9d, how easy is it to go back to F8 if problems arise :O ? oh and where do I get F9d, I haven't figured that out yet
Click to expand...

Get beta bios here:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48085-gigabyte-modified-bios.html

Very easy. You can load F8 on to your backup bios and put F9d on the primary. Then it is just a matter of flipping a switch to go back to F8.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chocoman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> When I load optimized defaults it doesn't boot because of AHCI configuration... changing that to RAID, it boots fine
> 
> 
> 
> You are lucky you did not make it into windows with your RAID setup being set at AHCI. If you forget to reset it after a flash or reset of BIOS and boot into windows your are screwed.
Click to expand...


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chocoman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> try F9D, but are you using any other hardware? any add-in cards?
> Your OC, what about your memory? Did you run memtest86+ after you boot into windows? or before?
> What happens if you just load optimized defaults, and disable Virtu.
> You aren't using a beta version of ADIA are you?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, no add-in cards other than the graphics card..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have USB 3 going to the front provided by Gigabyte that comes with the board and disc drive of course..
> Memory is using an XMP profile clocked in at 1600MHz, 8GB Dual Channel (2X4GB) Patriot Memory G2
> When I load optimized defaults it doesn't boot because of AHCI configuration... changing that to RAID, it boots fine (this is because I set up intel smart response, SSD caching) and crashes persists even without Virtu (tested for two weeks like two weeks ago..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Haha, no its not beta.. its Aida64 2.50 release version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm always weary about testing unreleased BIOS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I've seen people here happy with F9d.. if I flash F9d, how easy is it to go back to F8 if problems arise :O ? oh and where do I get F9d, I haven't figured that out yet
Click to expand...

Run memtest 86+ through DOS, if AIDA64 EE is giving you errors in its stress test on the cache then there is something wrong with your CPU OC or memory perhaps.


----------



## CaptainHook

Anyone got thoughts on this below?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainHook*
> 
> Back with another question!
> Error 97 on the motherboard - "Console Output Device Connect"
> I'm trying to use an nvidia GT 120 with this board (got from ebay) alongside a GTX 580 and that's the error showing on the motherboard. Any ideas what it means? I get that it means there's an error with the console output device, does that mean this card is just not going to work? I have tried with just the one card and in both slots.
> Thanks!


----------



## barkeater

Pull the 120 and see if you still get errors. If you don't then its the card.


----------



## CaptainHook

Yeah, i know the error is related to that card, but was wanting more info on what exactly the error code means and if there's someway to get it working i don't know of.


----------



## Sin0822

you tried with one card at a time and the 120 by itself didn't work?

What do you use that 120 for?


----------



## tfouto

Dont use memtest 86+. Instead use hci memtest. http://hcidesign.com/memtest/

Much better. I even bought the pro version, but you dont need to buy it. I was having failures on prime (rounding) and memtest86+ was not giving any problems. Then i used hci memtest and it revelead two faulty memory sticks out of 4. I RMA them and get new ones. Now everything works...

Memtest86+ really isn't the best tool to test your memory...


----------



## Telchar

Hello,

I just installed a system with a z77x-d3h (bios F9) and a 3570k, cooled by a noctua u12p.

Everything run fine, but I was getting strange temps while running prime95, above what I expected. I finally discovered that my 4 cores where running at 3.8Ghz / 1.188V. 38 multiplier on 4 cores is not the normal turbo behavior, and the vcore is pretty high.

In the bios all turbo settings are by default. Next to the buttons (set to "auto") are the supposed default values :

1 core 38
2 core 37
3 core 36
4 core 36

If I change the turbo values from "auto" to the same values that are indicated (38,37,36,36), the turbo boost seems to behave normally : prime95 run at 3.6Ghz / 1.140V, and my temps are 7 degrees below.

I don't understand what's going on, is this some sort of trick to get better results out of benchmarks ?

I hope I made myself clear, english is not my native language









Thanks


----------



## kesawi

I'm running bios version F8 pm my Z77X-UD5H and can not seem to get any devices connected to the internal USB3.0 headers F_USB30_2 and F_USB30_3 to work. I appear to get power but nothing else. The devices work when connected to F_USB30_1 but not the other two internal headers. The rear USB3.0 ports all work fine. I've tried using the dual bios switch to run my original F5 bios but this doesn't work either. I believe these intenal headers run off the VIA VL810 controller located adjacent to them, while the other header runs from the Z77 chipset. Has anyone else had any issues with the internal headers?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> I'm running bios version F8 pm my Z77X-UD5H and can not seem to get any devices connected to the internal USB3.0 headers F_USB30_2 and F_USB30_3 to work. I appear to get power but nothing else. The devices work when connected to F_USB30_1 but not the other two internal headers. The rear USB3.0 ports all work fine. I've tried using the dual bios switch to run my original F5 bios but this doesn't work either. I believe these intenal headers run off the VIA VL810 controller located adjacent to them, while the other header runs from the Z77 chipset. Has anyone else had any issues with the internal headers?


Please do not cross post or at least include a link to the other post.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Hi guys,
could someone please tell me how far down can a UD5H downvolt an Ivy Bridge CPU (core i5 3570K, to be specific)?
I mean, what is the lowest voltage allowed by the board and, in someone tried, the lowest voltage allowed by the 3570K.
I am planning to use my rig undervolted and underclocked between mild overclocks and wanted to know if I can lower temperatures in that way.
(Obviously only when reading, writing and thinking in front of the screen).

tnx


----------



## Conners

I don't think theres any specific low voltage. Esch board ans cpu will be diffrent. The only way to know is test it out for yourself.


----------



## tfouto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> Hi guys,
> could someone please tell me how far down can a UD5H downvolt an Ivy Bridge CPU (core i5 3570K, to be specific)?
> I mean, what is the lowest voltage allowed by the board and, in someone tried, the lowest voltage allowed by the 3570K.
> I am planning to use my rig undervolted and underclocked between mild overclocks and wanted to know if I can lower temperatures in that way.
> (Obviously only when reading, writing and thinking in front of the screen).
> tnx


I dont think there's a real benefit on doing that. On idle or with low usage the cpu defaults to 1.6ghz. The cpu is cold. The motherboard of z77 and PCH is the real culprit for the case of getting hot. But i dont think that lowering the voltage will make much such a difference...


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

I read this
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge
and I know people who undervolted (slightly) their Sandies and measured a few watts less with a wattmeter (perhaps the vrms on the mobo require less power, I don't know). My idea is to get the greener rig possible while under light load, but still be able to overclock when I need computing power.

My question was about the voltage settings in the Bios/UEFI: what is the minimum voltage setting or offset allowed by the UD5H? I've read it no longer has drop down menus, it just lets you enter the values. And I did not find an answer in the manual.
To clarify I don't have the board yet, I'm 95% positive I'll buy one (even if I don't like getting the 1.0 rev but I guess it will be months before we see a new revision...), and yet the undervolting capability is one of the things I want.
I also understand that you cannot run a cpu at 0.5V, nor at 0.8 V, but I believe that certain boards allows for stable undervolting while others don't - for example, I read on these very pages that sometimes ud5h owners have to rise the voltage more than expected to have a stable overclock, but if I'm not mistaken a slight overvoltage seems to be necessary even at stock . Perhaps the ud5h won't let IB work at less than its nominal voltage? That's why I asked


----------



## Snakes

Damn USB 3.0. I thought I had definitely identified my Corsair case's front panel to be causing my issues and I still believe that's a problem but I just tried plugging my USB HDD directly into the Gigabyte bracket which is connected to the Intel internal header and it's telling me the device can perform faster if I connect it to a USB 3.0 port. I have the latest Intel USB 3.0 driver installed. The back ports work fine. When I plug the Corsair front panel into the back ports of the motherboard there is no recognition in Windows of the HDD being connected at all. So there's something wrong with the front panel too. I'm about to just give up on the front panel ports and internal headers, and just use the back ports. Really frustrating, I have these features and being able to use them would be nice.


----------



## chocoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Run memtest 86+ through DOS, if AIDA64 EE is giving you errors in its stress test on the cache then there is something wrong with your CPU OC or memory perhaps.


Hi Sin,

I ran memtest 86+ through DOS with one of those bootcds already. Ran it overnight with multiple passes and no errors which leads me to believe my memory is ok. I am however, quite suspicious about the Aida stress tests because the reults are flaky and I can't replicate it. It fails the Aida tests randomly... sometimes its just perfect, no problems. I loaded F9d now and will keep it for a week to see how things goes. Could you give me an idea of what CPU OC I might be doing wrong to cause stress test cache to fail? I suspect it could be my OC since I set everything in the BIOS to auto.. should I specify my Vcore and not let my MB choose? I don't like doing that cuz I want my CPU to idle at low Voltages and temps.. setting it 1.14V I assume will keep it hot and perhaps my CPU will suffer from Voltage degradation?? imo I'm still a noob







advices?

p/s thanks for the RAID AHCI warning.. I'll be very careful from now on..


----------



## Mr Frosty

Guys any reason why my XMP profile for 1500Mhz won't work?

Is it because of lack of multiplier for 1500Mhz? Or because I;ve menaully set RAM voltage and timings?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Damn USB 3.0. I thought I had definitely identified my Corsair case's front panel to be causing my issues and I still believe that's a problem but I just tried plugging my USB HDD directly into the Gigabyte bracket which is connected to the Intel internal header and it's telling me the device can perform faster if I connect it to a USB 3.0 port. I have the latest Intel USB 3.0 driver installed. The back ports work fine. When I plug the Corsair front panel into the back ports of the motherboard there is no recognition in Windows of the HDD being connected at all. So there's something wrong with the front panel too. I'm about to just give up on the front panel ports and internal headers, and just use the back ports. Really frustrating, I have these features and being able to use them would be nice.


I know you been battling this issue for a while so I apologize if this has already been addressed but did you heed the warning in the manual about plugging in a device into the USB 2.0 port before loading the USB 3.0 drivers?

"Due to a Windows 7 limitation, please connect your USB device(s) to the USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) before the Intel USB 3.0 controller driver is installed."

Also, not sure which of the internal USB 3.0 headers you are using for your front bracket, but have you tried all three? The reason I ask is I think F_USB30_1 is controlled differently than F_USB30_2/F_USB30_3.

Again, you may have addressed all of these but I was just trying to think of something you could try.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I know you been battling this issue for a while so I apologize if this has already been addressed but did you heed the warning in the manual about plugging in a device into the USB 2.0 port before loading the USB 3.0 drivers?
> "Due to a Windows 7 limitation, please connect your USB device(s) to the USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) before the Intel USB 3.0 controller driver is installed."
> Also, not sure which of the internal USB 3.0 headers you are using for your front bracket, but have you tried all three? The reason I ask is I think F_USB30_1 is controlled differently than F_USB30_2/F_USB30_3.
> Again, you may have addressed all of these but I was just trying to think of something you could try.


I appreciate your ideas. I'm not sure about that limitation, I was under the impression that they just mean the 2.0 ports might be the only ones that work before you install the 3.0 drivers, so plug in your mouse and keyboard to the 2.0 when you first install Windows. I tried two of the internal headers, one controlled by VIA and one controlled by Intel. To tell the truth the back ports are probably more convenient for me to use but I just hate the idea of having a pretty major feature that just plain doesn't work, would like to get it solved but I'm reaching the end of my patience and ready to give up.


----------



## chocoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Damn USB 3.0. I thought I had definitely identified my Corsair case's front panel to be causing my issues and I still believe that's a problem but I just tried plugging my USB HDD directly into the Gigabyte bracket which is connected to the Intel internal header and it's telling me the device can perform faster if I connect it to a USB 3.0 port. I have the latest Intel USB 3.0 driver installed. The back ports work fine. When I plug the Corsair front panel into the back ports of the motherboard there is no recognition in Windows of the HDD being connected at all. So there's something wrong with the front panel too. I'm about to just give up on the front panel ports and internal headers, and just use the back ports. Really frustrating, I have these features and being able to use them would be nice.


Hi Snakes,

I'm no pro by any stretch but I had the same problem once as well. I believe it was a loose connection that I had so I took out the cable and re-plugged it into FUSB3.0_1, rebooted my computer and it was fine from then on.. maybe try that and see if the problem re-occurs.. , good luck


----------



## Snakes

Thanks for the suggestion. I've moved the connector from one header to another but I suppose it could have gotten loose both times. I'll keep that in mind as a possibility.


----------



## Conners

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Guys any reason why my XMP profile for 1500Mhz won't work?
> Is it because of lack of multiplier for 1500Mhz? Or because I;ve menaully set RAM voltage and timings?


It would be helpful to know the ram to which you speak of as well as your MB and CPU. Then someone may be able yo help you. Otherwise we have no clue.


----------



## Mr Frosty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conners*
> 
> It would be helpful to know the ram to which you speak of as well as your MB and CPU. Then someone may be able yo help you. Otherwise we have no clue.


Geil Corsa
2500k
Z77-UD5H


----------



## Conners

@mr. frosty tell us more about the ram..link to ram, timings, speed rated for, amount and so on...


----------



## Conners

Got a ssd you want to know if trim is enabled? Try this little batch file and see....easy Copy and paste to note pad save as all files and name it trimckh.bat or wahterver you like to your desktop or whever you like...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



@echo off
fsutil behavior query disabledeletenotify
:start
CHOICE /c:01 /m "Choose Either (0) ZERO or (1) ONE From the Answer Above..."
IF ERRORLEVEL ==2 GOTO One
IF ERRORLEVEL ==1 GOTO Zero
:Zero
CLS
color 2f
echo.
echo.
echo.
@echo ...TRIM IS ENABLED YIPPEE!!








echo.
echo.
echo.
goto End
:One
CLS
color 4f
echo.
echo.
echo.
@echo ...TRIM IS DISABLED BOO HOO!








echo.
echo.
echo.
:end
@Pause


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Damn USB 3.0. I thought I had definitely identified my Corsair case's front panel to be causing my issues and I still believe that's a problem but I just tried plugging my USB HDD directly into the Gigabyte bracket which is connected to the Intel internal header and it's telling me the device can perform faster if I connect it to a USB 3.0 port. I have the latest Intel USB 3.0 driver installed. The back ports work fine. When I plug the Corsair front panel into the back ports of the motherboard there is no recognition in Windows of the HDD being connected at all. So there's something wrong with the front panel too. I'm about to just give up on the front panel ports and internal headers, and just use the back ports. Really frustrating, I have these features and being able to use them would be nice.


On my system, all 3 headers are in use (one to MB case, one using GB bracket, one on a rear bracket). All three are working fine under Windows 7 (BIOS F9d). Checking the Device Manager, for USB 3.0, I have 4 entries:

Intel(R) USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller
Intel(R) USB 3.0 Root Hub
USB 3.0 Hub
USB 3.0 Hub

The eXtensible host controller and the two 3.0 hubs list the driver version: 1.0.5.235.

The two 3.0 hubs, under the Power Management tab, have "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" unchecked. (I don't know if this might matter. I seem to remember reading something about a Power Management issue for some USB 3.0 configurations (not related to GB boards though). I don't remember unchecking it, but I must have done at some point.

Could the problem be in part a flaky USB device? My Corsair Flash Voyager GT 3,0 doesn't always work on a system in my office where my WD My Book 3.0 works fine. Do you have another USB 3.0 device to test?


----------



## Conners

@snakes I read this don't know if it's been discussed before but...
Quote:


> * Due to a Windows 7 limitation, please connect your USB device(s) to the USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) before the Intel USB 3.0 controller driver is installed.


----------



## Sin0822

or set the USB xHCI mode from smart auto to just auto, that will change the USB mode to 2.0 on the Intel ports.

IMO Intel USb 3.0 itself, forget the board, but itself needs work.
Intel is like the last company to bring USB 3.0 to the table, their controller is so hot that they can only offer 4 ports, their controller adds 0.7W of power to the TDp of the PCH, The USB 3.0 doesn't work without a driver, i mean come on right? What are we dealing with here a NEC, EtronTech, ASMedia, or VIA controller? basically yes that is what you are dealing with, but with the intel name. Not only that Intel doesn't want to provide Intel USb 3.0 support to Windows Vista NOR Windows XP, so if you have either one of those two OSs you cannot use intel USB 3.0. If you update at this point the drivers for Intel USb 3.0 are still also very new, i have only heard of one or two driver updates so far.

BTW also i want to know, any try on a UD3H whether or not the VIA controller(not hub) ports are faster than intels? From my tests With the hub on the G1.Sniper3, i was 20mb/s faster on the VIA hubs than the direct Intel.


----------



## Conners

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> or set the USB xHCI mode from smart auto to just auto, that will change the USB mode to 2.0 on the Intel ports.


There u go!


----------



## ElectricDelta

Hey, I just noticed that the VIA USB 3.0 driver is _not even listed_ on the GA-Z77X-UD5H driver download page, nor on a bunch of the other Z77 Gigabyte motherboard download pages. I DID find it on the GA-Z77-D3H page though... http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#dl

I guess I've been running generic Microsoft USB 3.0 drivers on the VIA chipset on my UD5H all this time. Will give the VIA USB 3.0 drivers a try now. Fingers crossed, that this info helps me and others here.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> Hey, I just noticed that the VIA USB 3.0 driver is _not even listed_ on the GA-Z77X-UD5H driver download page, nor on a bunch of the other Z77 Gigabyte motherboard download pages. I DID find it on the GA-Z77-D3H page though... http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#dl
> I guess I've been running generic Microsoft USB 3.0 drivers on the VIA chipset on my UD5H all this time. Will give the VIA USB 3.0 drivers a try now. Fingers crossed, that this info helps me and others here.


The VIA USb 3.0 hub the 1:4 hub does NOT have a driver. it is a hardware only piece. It doesn't need a driver, however the Intel USB ports do. Now the UD3H and D3H they don't use the hub, instead they use the 4-port controller which then needs a driver. So let's repeat, the UD5H and G1.Sniper 3 use a VIA hub, the UD3H and of course D3H(because they are like clones) use a VIA controller. The controller needs drivers, but the hub doesn't.


----------



## ElectricDelta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> Hey, I just noticed that the VIA USB 3.0 driver is _not even listed_ on the GA-Z77X-UD5H driver download page, nor on a bunch of the other Z77 Gigabyte motherboard download pages. I DID find it on the GA-Z77-D3H page though... http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#dl
> I guess I've been running generic Microsoft USB 3.0 drivers on the VIA chipset on my UD5H all this time. Will give the VIA USB 3.0 drivers a try now. Fingers crossed, that this info helps me and others here.


Never mind, the linked driver won't install, suitable hardware not found. Looking further into this, the VIA USB 3.0 ports are actually from a VL810 hub on the motherboard, that runs off the Intel USB 3.0 controller built into the Z77; it's not a VIA USB 3.0 controller, just a hub. Oh well, sorry for jumping the gun posting this and getting anyone's hopes up for nothing.


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> Hey, I just noticed that the VIA USB 3.0 driver is _not even listed_ on the GA-Z77X-UD5H driver download page, nor on a bunch of the other Z77 Gigabyte motherboard download pages. I DID find it on the GA-Z77-D3H page though... http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#dl
> I guess I've been running generic Microsoft USB 3.0 drivers on the VIA chipset on my UD5H all this time. Will give the VIA USB 3.0 drivers a try now. Fingers crossed, that this info helps me and others here.


The via chip on the D3H is different to the one on the UD5H according to the specs for each board. The D3H has a VL800 chip while the UD5H has a VL810 chip.


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> Never mind, the linked driver won't install, suitable hardware not found. Looking further into this, the VIA USB 3.0 ports are actually from a VL810 hub on the motherboard, that runs off the Intel USB 3.0 controller built into the Z77; it's not a VIA USB 3.0 controller, just a hub. Oh well, sorry for jumping the gun posting this and getting anyone's hopes up for nothing.


I don't know if it makes a difference, but have you tried the 1.0.5.235 driver:

http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=21129

instead of the one on the GB downloads page? The newer driver is working fine for me on Windows 7 (I don't remember whether I had any trouble with the older one (1.0.4.225).


----------



## CRAZY HORSE

I just did a build for a friend with the Gigabyte GA-Z77 and a 2500. When I push the power button, fans turn and light light up for a half of second and stops....nothing. I thought it was a faulty mobo, but returned it, replaced power supply, case switches, tried pulling off plugs, but nothing changes. All it does is turn the lights and fans on for a brief second and nothing. Please Help!!!!


----------



## ElectricDelta

Yes, using the newest driver off the Intel site, 1.0.5.235. My issues are very minor, my Andrea Electronics USB-MA USB microphone adapter, plugged into the front case USB 3.0 (coming off of the bottom rightmost USB header on my UD5H), doesn't work on boot, if it is left plugged in, but always works, if I unplug and re-plug one time. With previous drivers, it had to be re-plugged repeatedly, 1-3 times, until it worked; after that, it would work without error, until the next boot. The other minor issue is with the USB ports on my Steelseries Merc Stealth keyboard (plugged into USB 2.0 on mobo rear), anything I plug in causes a "USB Hub Power Exceeded" message to pop up, even something as low-power as a USB flash drive. I'm pretty sure the keyboard + USB flash drive are not drawing that much current, this combo always worked fine on my EP45-UD3R, also on USB 2.0.

Edit: Just checked in Device Manager under the Generic USB Hub where the keyboard and USB flash drive connect; the keyboard says 100 mA required, and the flash drive says 200 mA. I would expect the rear USB 2.0 port to be capable of 500 mA, that's pretty standard, I believe.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRAZY HORSE*
> 
> I just did a build for a friend with the Gigabyte GA-Z77 and a 2500. When I push the power button, fans turn and light light up for a half of second and stops....nothing. I thought it was a faulty mobo, but returned it, replaced power supply, case switches, tried pulling off plugs, but nothing changes. All it does is turn the lights and fans on for a brief second and nothing. Please Help!!!!


Try the ole, disconnect the PSU, pull all the hardware, pull the battery and short its contacts for a few seconds while holding in the CMOS reset button.

Why two Motherboards do the same thing is crazy. Maybe your shorted tho the case. Put the mobo on a piece of cardboard and try it with just a PSU, display into the on-board graphics, a mouse and keyboard. See if it will boot then.


----------



## Sin0822

it isn't the motherboard. It is most likely a short or bad PSU. Don't always think the board is the issue, especially in circumstances like that. BTW if the CPu is bad then that is exactly what happens as well. The motherboard, at least this one doesn't give many people issues.


----------



## CaptainHook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you tried with one card at a time and the 120 by itself didn't work?
> What do you use that 120 for?


Yeah, 120 doesn't work by itself. I get error 97 on the motherboard..

The 120 will just be to run the monitor, so that the 580 will be for cuda processing. Davinci resolve requires one dedicated graphics card for your monitor(s), and a separate card for cuda processing.


----------



## Sin0822

have you confirmed the card works at all? Can you try it again in another machine if you already tested it?


----------



## CaptainHook

I don't have another machine to test it in so no, i can't confirm it works. Everyone i know uses Macs as well (so do i - iMac 27" and macbook pro).

I'm being the brave one by trying out PC parts first.. so far my luck hasn't been great. Ram that was dud and a EVGA GTX580 i had to return. Got a working MSI 580 at the moment tho. Could my luck be so bad that i have a 3rd non functioning item? Or is this just the way it goes in the PC world?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainHook*
> 
> I don't have another machine to test it in so no, i can't confirm it works. Everyone i know uses Macs as well (so do i - iMac 27" and macbook pro).
> 
> I'm being the brave one by trying out PC parts first.. so far my luck hasn't been great. Ram that was dud and a EVGA GTX580 i had to return. Got a working MSI 580 at the moment tho. Could my luck be so bad that i have a 3rd non functioning item? Or is this just the way it goes in the PC world?


If you bought a prebuilt PC like a prebuilt mac, you wouldn't have these issues... because they are tested working before they're sold. However to get the ultimate bang for the buck, sometimes there's a bit of lottery. You are having unusually bad luck though. In the last 25 systems I've built, I have had a single bad set of RAM. Everything else has been perfectly fine.


----------



## blazed_1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainHook*
> 
> I don't have another machine to test it in so no, i can't confirm it works. Everyone i know uses Macs as well (so do i - iMac 27" and macbook pro).
> I'm being the brave one by trying out PC parts first.. so far my luck hasn't been great. Ram that was dud and a EVGA GTX580 i had to return. Got a working MSI 580 at the moment tho. Could my luck be so bad that i have a 3rd non functioning item? Or is this just the way it goes in the PC world?


I would say bad luck, buying pc parts off of ebay doesn't help either.







If the 580 works by itself but the 120 doesn't, get your money back. I don't know anything about Davinci Resolve but could you just use the onboard graphics to run the monitor and the 580 for cuda?


----------



## Sin0822

yea i would think that your 120 didn't work to begin with ;(

in all my years, well i tend to only buy new unless they don't make it, i have had a lot of bad memory.


----------



## tfouto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chocoman*
> 
> Hi Sin,
> I ran memtest 86+ through DOS with one of those bootcds already. Ran it overnight with multiple passes and no errors which leads me to believe my memory is ok. I am however, quite suspicious about the Aida stress tests because the reults are flaky and I can't replicate it. It fails the Aida tests randomly... sometimes its just perfect, no problems. I loaded F9d now and will keep it for a week to see how things goes. Could you give me an idea of what CPU OC I might be doing wrong to cause stress test cache to fail? I suspect it could be my OC since I set everything in the BIOS to auto.. should I specify my Vcore and not let my MB choose? I don't like doing that cuz I want my CPU to idle at low Voltages and temps.. setting it 1.14V I assume will keep it hot and perhaps my CPU will suffer from Voltage degradation?? imo I'm still a noob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> advices?
> p/s thanks for the RAID AHCI warning.. I'll be very careful from now on..


Dont use memtest 86+. I was having memory problems and memtest 86+ was totally clueless...
..
http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/2380#post_17574805


----------



## TrueForm

How do you turn off the power saving features on the UD3H?. I just installed this with an I5 3570K. Thanks.

:::EDIT::: Ah I've found out how.


----------



## sena

Guys i need urgent help.
I tried to secure erase drive with parted magic, and i failed.
And now my SSD is not recognized in boot priority, i can get in OS, but only through boot override. In other words every time i want to get in OS, i have to go in BIOS first.


----------



## mandrix

Not directed at anyone in particular, but: there seems to be a lot of people that don't know troubleshooting 101. People if the computer won't boot, try pulling the board out and set it on cardboard with minimal connections, ram, etc and go from there one step at a time. Just a dropped screw, a cooler backplate shorting the motherboard, all sorts of things can happen. I read a post the other day where the poor guy didn't install the standoffs for the motherboard. Simple stuff gets you every time and even experienced builders make mistakes and laugh at themselves later, I know I've done some bonehead things because I had a brain fart.
Folks here want to help, but you need to help yourself and learn basic computer building. It is appalling how many people keep sending back boards and other components only to have the same problem over and over again, and there are help forums for the newbie builders.
Don't take this as mean spirited, just learn the basic stuff or take an A+ course or something.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Guys i need urgent help.
> I tried to secure erase drive with parted magic, and i failed.
> And now my SSD is not recognized in boot priority, i can get in OS, but only through boot override. In other words every time i want to get in OS, i have to go in BIOS first.


Fixed.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Fixed.


C'mon........... Share it.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Not directed at anyone in particular, but: there seems to be a lot of people that don't know troubleshooting 101. People if the computer won't boot, try pulling the board out and set it on cardboard with minimal connections, ram, etc and go from there one step at a time. Just a dropped screw, a cooler backplate shorting the motherboard, all sorts of things can happen. I read a post the other day where the poor guy didn't install the standoffs for the motherboard. Simple stuff gets you every time and even experienced builders make mistakes and laugh at themselves later, I know I've done some bonehead things because I had a brain fart.
> Folks here want to help, but you need to help yourself and learn basic computer building. It is appalling how many people keep sending back boards and other components only to have the same problem over and over again, and there are help forums for the newbie builders.
> Don't take this as mean spirited, just learn the basic stuff or take an A+ course or something.


Yeh, my 2008 GA-EP45-UD3P build had a screw behind the board. I was using a case from another build and took the old board out laying flat and put the UDP3 in soon after. She loop booted. Lucky me, I was taking it out with the case standing up and it fell as I loosened a board screw. Heh, I retrieved it and tightened up the screw and have never looked back. I always stand the case up now before assembly.









My board functioned fine for weeks then BAM! That's why I got a Gigabyte tech on the horn and let him tell me to RMA mine. No need to cardboard bench mine though. Would not boot with an eSATA device connected, random boots, would not stay in sleep mode, USB inconsistencies, Random Auto Play popup windows, and more. We did the CMOS reset, the original F4 and then F7, and then F8 all in both switch settings. Was on the phone for 45 minutes and he said "Please RMA the board". Glad I had a fresh pot of coffee on hand when I called.

We looked at Wake on LAN settings, removed and inserted different USB devices before and after booting, he had me look up and read back some of the items in my Event Viewer, the cold boot issue was of particular interest to him. Sometimes it would hang at the Megatrends Logo, sometimes after that at the blank screen after that with a blinking cursor, and what got him was sometimes it would cold boot with the eSATA connected. There was more but........

I rely heavily on this forum but also know I have another resource in Gigabyte phone support. When I get my board back I'm gonna cardboard bench it from the start.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> I had lockups too. Once I removed from my system a firewire audio interface I was using, the freezes stopped. Try removing the X-Fi from your system and use the onboard sound for a while and see how it goes.


After another lockup on last Friday night (high pitched sound + freeze), i took the X-fi fatality fps PCI card out and installed onboard plus the x-fi emulation software.

I am afraid to jink myself but i have had *no* lockups in the 5 days (15-18 hours of gaming) since i took the card out.









So either there is an incompatability issue with the sound card or an issue with the PAX drivers i was using.

Is it possible Sin to get Gigabyte to look into the incompatability issue or is it because PCI is not native to the board and i am to coin a phrase SOL







and i just have to buy a PCI-E sound card?

I would like to think that the issue could be resolved though as they resolved the issue with that RAID interface in the last BIOS IIRC.

Anyways a big thank you to Yor_ for suggesting this to me!


----------



## darktronic

Hi guys, i'm a newbie here with newly purchased 3570k and z77x ud3h (running bios f11). I've tried overclocking to 4.5ghz using vcore 1.26 v (very stable so far). Right now i've been messing around with the offset vcore so i can lower vcore during idle. I set offset to 0.08 so in theory at load will get 1.26 v (my stock vcore is 1.18). But during stress test (aida64, prime, ibt) my vcore jumped to 1.35 which is way more than my comfort zone. Can someone teach me what setting should i mess with so at load i can get exactly 1.26?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Yeh, my 2008 GA-EP45-UD3P build had a screw behind the board. I was using a case from another build and took the old board out laying flat and put the UDP3 in soon after. She loop booted. Lucky me, I was taking it out with the case standing up and it fell as I loosened a board screw. Heh, I retrieved it and tightened up the screw and have never looked back. I always stand the case up now before assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My board functioned fine for weeks then BAM! That's why I got a Gigabyte tech on the horn and let him tell me to RMA mine. No need to cardboard bench mine though. Would not boot with an eSATA device connected, random boots, would not stay in sleep mode, USB inconsistencies, Random Auto Play popup windows, and more. We did the CMOS reset, the original F4 and then F7, and then F8 all in both switch settings. Was on the phone for 45 minutes and he said "Please RMA the board". Glad I had a fresh pot of coffee on hand when I called.
> We looked at Wake on LAN settings, removed and inserted different USB devices before and after booting, he had me look up and read back some of the items in my Event Viewer, the cold boot issue was of particular interest to him. Sometimes it would hang at the Megatrends Logo, sometimes after that at the blank screen after that with a blinking cursor, and what got him was sometimes it would cold boot with the eSATA connected. There was more but........
> I rely heavily on this forum but also know I have another resource in Gigabyte phone support. When I get my board back I'm gonna cardboard bench it from the start.


Yep, sometimes you don't have any other choice but to RMA, and that's a fact. But that should be the last solution.


----------



## Yor_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> After another lockup on last Friday night (high pitched sound + freeze), i took the X-fi fatality fps PCI card out and installed onboard plus the x-fi emulation software.
> I am afraid to jink myself but i have had *no* lockups in the 5 days (15-18 hours of gaming) since i took the card out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So either there is an incompatability issue with the sound card or an issue with the PAX drivers i was using.
> Is it possible Sin to get Gigabyte to look into the incompatability issue or is it because PCI is not native to the board and i am to coin a phrase SOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and i just have to buy a PCI-E sound card?
> I would like to think that the issue could be resolved though as they resolved the issue with that RAID interface in the last BIOS IIRC.
> Anyways a big thank you to Yor_ for suggesting this to me!


I'm so glad and happy you were able to solve the problem man, like me!. BUT...that is only half of the problem...because I still want to keep using the audio interface I took out!









I guess it has something to do with the PCI bus, cause the Firewire (IEEE 1394a) audio interface I was using connects through the onboard VIA 1308p chip, which uses the PCI bus to connect to the rest of the system. Your X-Fi card is a PCI card, so...go figure.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yor_*
> 
> I'm so glad and happy you were able to solve the problem man, like me!. BUT...that is only half of the problem...because I still want to keep using the audio interface I took out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it has something to do with the PCI bus, cause the Firewire (IEEE 1394a) audio interface I was using connects through the onboard VIA 1308p chip, which uses the PCI bus to connect to the rest of the system. Your X-Fi card is a PCI card, so...go figure.


I would love to keep using my card too man.

It has served me well over the last 4 years so not a big loss to replace it.


----------



## blazed_1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darktronic*
> 
> Hi guys, i'm a newbie here with newly purchased 3570k and z77x ud3h (running bios f11). I've tried overclocking to 4.5ghz using vcore 1.26 v (very stable so far). Right now i've been messing around with the offset vcore so i can lower vcore during idle. I set offset to 0.08 so in theory at load will get 1.26 v (my stock vcore is 1.18). But during stress test (aida64, prime, ibt) my vcore jumped to 1.35 which is way more than my comfort zone. Can someone teach me what setting should i mess with so at load i can get exactly 1.26?


Please read this guide;
http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/0_20

When adding offset voltage there is no stock voltage to add it to. The VID changes as the cpu clocks higher and this is what the offset voltage is added to.


----------



## darktronic

Thanks a lot!. very helpful +rep. I managed to get the cpu vcore at 1.26 at 100% load using -0.01 offset. however, i check whea logger and I received this error during prime.

A corrected hardware error has occurred.

Reported by component: Processor Core
Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
Error Type: Internal parity error
Processor ID: 6

The details view of this entry contains further information.

Does this means my oc is unstable?


----------



## Sin0822

about you guys with the PCI issues i will report it later tonight as there are a few of you.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darktronic*
> 
> Thanks a lot!. very helpful +rep. I managed to get the cpu vcore at 1.26 at 100% load using -0.01 offset. however, i check whea logger and I received this error during prime.
> A corrected hardware error has occurred.
> Reported by component: Processor Core
> Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
> Error Type: Internal parity error
> Processor ID: 6
> The details view of this entry contains further information.
> Does this means my oc is unstable?


Yeh, I got all kinds of that stuff, I Google them and find eventid.net to be a big help.

I'll say this, while I am waiting for my boards return and falling back upon my Q6600 / EP45-UD3P / Win7x64 I see none of the errors reported by my 3770k / UD5H / Win7Prox64 combo. NONE! Event viewer is really clean in comparison.

Some of the stuff I read are to make sure ALL your hardware and software drivers and versions are up to date. Also check your RAM doing the one stick at a time thing.

I see some folks saying to insert the single stick closest to the processor but the manual shows the leading channel "DDR3_1 to be the furthermost away.?


----------



## Sin0822

the first thing initialized is the DIMM1, however try DIMM_2 is best for failsafe.


----------



## Yor_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> about you guys with the PCI issues i will report it later tonight as there are a few of you.


Thanks Sin!. Just keep us informed, please.


----------



## darktronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Yeh, I got all kinds of that stuff, I Google them and find eventid.net to be a big help.
> I'll say this, while I am waiting for my boards return and falling back upon my Q6600 / EP45-UD3P / Win7x64 I see none of the errors reported by my 3770k / UD5H / Win7Prox64 combo. NONE! Event viewer is really clean in comparison.
> Some of the stuff I read are to make sure ALL your hardware and software drivers and versions are up to date. Also check your RAM doing the one stick at a time thing.
> I see some folks saying to insert the single stick closest to the processor but the manual shows the leading channel "DDR3_1 to be the furthermost away.?


Thanks, right now im pretty sure that the problem is my oc. Reverted back to stock settings and havent got that error so far. Is that error points to my oc being unstable even though im stable on prime pass, ibt and aida64? should i ignore it?


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> C'mon........... Share it.


I was just messing around in bios, and SSD appeared in Boot Priority.


----------



## stasio

UD5H F9e is out.


----------



## mandrix

Wish Gigabyte would give some hint as to what each beta is supposed to fix. I'm not above trying them, but more out of curiosity to see if anything added to BIOS I can fool with.









When I look at some peoples posted OC settings that use a non-Gigabyte board it's like a foreign language, lol, never seen so many options in a Gigabyte BIOS as say, ASUS or Asrock.
I do have a Asrock mobo but it's only running an i3 HTPC and I never even look at the OC stuff.


----------



## 2therock

I always wonder why a person would put a new BIOS up for grabs and not list a change log.


----------



## not5150

Chalk another one for the "db error" brigade...

Core i7 Ivy Bridge 3770k
GSkill Ripjaw 1600/8GB sticks
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Palit 9600GT (yes it's old)

Ok, just got my new mobo, cpu, ram and cooler last night... built it up, popped it in my Antec case. Powers on, fans spin, no beeps, error codes cycle, graphics card info comes up (512MB video ram), blue-ish BIOS logo screen comes up... stays for approx 3-4 seconds giving me hope, then shuts off.

Hitting del/escape/end/etc doesn't alter the boot sequence at all... keyboard lights up.

The boot doesn't get far enough for me to see the bios version. Mobo/box says rev 1.0

Troubleshooting steps

Flipped the bios switch - same deal
Took the mobo out of the case and popped it on cardboard - no bueno
Put graphics card into different slots - no dice
Took out graphics card, plugged video straight into dvi ... - same problem
Tried different keyboards/mice - groundhog day
Took out all extra ram sticks.. leaving one stick, changed slots - same
Tried different graphics card - same
Bios short reset by taking out battery, holding bios clear button, shorting the jumper... etc etc etc.. leaving battery/power out overnight, sacrificing baby unicorns

same deal
Reseated cpu/cooler - I think you get the picture now
So before I commit seppuku with a KFC spork.... figured I swallow my pride and ask here. I've gone through the thread and saw that techiegeek had the same problem. Any other suggestions?

I'm well within the NewEgg RMA period, so I've got no problem returning it if need be.

Thanks Everyone!

UPDATE

The one thing I haven't tried is popping an older Sandy Bridge into the mobo (because I don't have one). Looking at the supported CPU list, Ivy Bridge is supported at Bios F6 (April 26th 2012) and after. Since the BIOS logo comes up and it appears to be loading for a few seconds, might the bios be pre-F6 ?

My thought is that the bios is loading in the system info.. starts querying the CPU, gets back some weird info and then basically says, "*** are you, I'm outta here"

I'm going to head over to the nearest PC Club and see the techs can pop a Sandy Bridge into the mobo for kicks.


----------



## hipzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *not5150*
> 
> UPDATE
> The one thing I haven't tried is popping an older Sandy Bridge into the mobo (because I don't have one). Looking at the supported CPU list, Ivy Bridge is supported at Bios F6 (April 26th 2012) and after. Since the BIOS logo comes up and it appears to be loading for a few seconds, might the bios be pre-F6 ?
> My thought is that the bios is loading in the system info.. starts querying the CPU, gets back some weird info and then basically says, "*** are you, I'm outta here"
> I'm going to head over to the nearest PC Club and see the techs can pop a Sandy Bridge into the mobo for kicks.


This isn't entirely accurate. My UD5H shipped with BIOS F4 and recognized my 3570k without any issues. If anything, see if maybe your PC Club has a standard 4GB stick of DDR3 that you can pop in to try and boot with? If your board was shipped with an older BIOS maybe it doesn't like that 8GB GSKILL stick.

Also, no debug codes on the motherboard?


----------



## roxxphatcox

When is ASUS gonna fix the boot loop issue with SB i5s?

Got the bios version F12g and the issue still persists...


----------



## irfy

F9e BIOS fixes profiles loading from USB. Not sure what else. I still get wierd IGP voltage reading.

Ive noticed tooo less Vcore can cause hangs in bios or windows. Best to use higher volts at 1st then slowly bring it down. Wanted to know if I should ENABLE EIST & C1E or just C1E on it's own? im trying to stabalise 5GHz


----------



## DubTx

You guys are the only ones who seem to know these boards and this chipset in and out...

*I NEED YOUR HELP!*

Z77X-U3DH
3770 Not overclocked (3.9Ghz)
Win7 64 bit.

With a 560ti was getting up to 140 fps in BF3. The problem is network latency. Ping in game was 500+. Troubleshooting steps...

- Local network is fine, no congestion.
- ping to a particular website on this rig is 400ms+, ping to same website with a system on the same switch 20-40ms; put the z77 system on the same port as the other system, no change.
- Installed a Dlink NIC. Same problem.
- Pulled the new NIC and GPU, reset CMOS, load optimal settings, no change.
- System arrived with F7 BIOS, I flashed to F11, No help.
- Running latest Atheros driver from Gigabyte site.
- Set adapter to 100M/Full duplex in windows, LED is green meaning 100Mbps.

All Win7 updates applied. I've cleared CMOS at least twice and loaded optimal settings.

Does anyone know of a Linux LiveCD that supports this board well enough to be another troubleshooting step to eliminate/confirm Windows/driver issue?

I'm at a loss here. Thanks for any assistance!


----------



## -Ste-

try a different battlefield 3 server + reset your router


----------



## Hokies83

Any info on speeding up boot times..? right now i boot from bios post to windows 6-7 secs .. if im turning the pc on for the first time.. that day im in windows before my gpu can pop my screen on lol..


----------



## DubTx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> try a different battlefield 3 server + reset your router


Did all that. Reset router and cable modem. That wouldn't account for why another system on the same switch isn't having latency problems.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *not5150*
> 
> Chalk another one for the "db error" brigade...
> Core i7 Ivy Bridge 3770k
> GSkill Ripjaw 1600/8GB sticks
> Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> Palit 9600GT (yes it's old)
> Ok, just got my new mobo, cpu, ram and cooler last night... built it up, popped it in my Antec case. Powers on, fans spin, no beeps, error codes cycle, graphics card info comes up (512MB video ram), blue-ish BIOS logo screen comes up... stays for approx 3-4 seconds giving me hope, then shuts off.
> Hitting del/escape/end/etc doesn't alter the boot sequence at all... keyboard lights up.
> The boot doesn't get far enough for me to see the bios version. Mobo/box says rev 1.0
> Troubleshooting steps
> 
> Flipped the bios switch - same deal
> Took the mobo out of the case and popped it on cardboard - no bueno
> Put graphics card into different slots - no dice
> Took out graphics card, plugged video straight into dvi ... - same problem
> Tried different keyboards/mice - groundhog day
> Took out all extra ram sticks.. leaving one stick, changed slots - same
> Tried different graphics card - same
> Bios short reset by taking out battery, holding bios clear button, shorting the jumper... etc etc etc.. leaving battery/power out overnight, sacrificing baby unicorns
> 
> same deal
> Reseated cpu/cooler - I think you get the picture now
> So before I commit seppuku with a KFC spork.... figured I swallow my pride and ask here. I've gone through the thread and saw that techiegeek had the same problem. Any other suggestions?
> I'm well within the NewEgg RMA period, so I've got no problem returning it if need be.
> Thanks Everyone!
> 
> UPDATE
> The one thing I haven't tried is popping an older Sandy Bridge into the mobo (because I don't have one). Looking at the supported CPU list, Ivy Bridge is supported at Bios F6 (April 26th 2012) and after. Since the BIOS logo comes up and it appears to be loading for a few seconds, might the bios be pre-F6 ?
> My thought is that the bios is loading in the system info.. starts querying the CPU, gets back some weird info and then basically says, "*** are you, I'm outta here"
> I'm going to head over to the nearest PC Club and see the techs can pop a Sandy Bridge into the mobo for kicks.


Dude i don't even understand what is going on, is the board refusing to go into the BIOS at all? If so check with 1 stick of memory, if not then try the backup BIOS, if that doesn't work then RMA it. You probably will have to RMA it, it sounds like the board might be DOA.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hipzilla*
> 
> This isn't entirely accurate. My UD5H shipped with BIOS F4 and recognized my 3570k without any issues. If anything, see if maybe your PC Club has a standard 4GB stick of DDR3 that you can pop in to try and boot with? If your board was shipped with an older BIOS maybe it doesn't like that 8GB GSKILL stick.
> Also, no debug codes on the motherboard?


Yea dude, don't worry, all BIOSes even BIOS F1 or E20 or 01 fully supports Ivy Bridge. lol. How can a Z77 board not fully support an Ivy bridge CPU, i mean Z77 boards are made for ivy bridge not sandy bridge.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roxxphatcox*
> 
> When is ASUS gonna fix the boot loop issue with SB i5s?
> Got the bios version F12g and the issue still persists...


What? ASUS? What CPU? What happens?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Any info on speeding up boot times..? right now i boot from bios post to windows 6-7 secs .. if im turning the pc on for the first time.. that day im in windows before my gpu can pop my screen on lol..


You can try rapid start technology, or disconnect some of your peripherals if you have many, each peripheral you connect has to be initialized on a cold boot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DubTx*
> 
> Did all that. Reset router and cable modem. That wouldn't account for why another system on the same switch isn't having latency problems.


I think that perhaps your ISP slowed down your connection or something, you have tried everything. I don't understand why people always think it is the board. Maybe there is a registry error in Windows, did you try a fresh installation? Did you try an older intel NIC driver?

So you are saying if you hook up another NIC that you have the same issue? Then the issue would be your ISP or perhaps the cable is messed up or somthing.


----------



## 2therock

I would say its the board and send it back pronto. Are you in your return period with the vendor?


----------



## ElectricDelta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DubTx*
> 
> You guys are the only ones who seem to know these boards and this chipset in and out...
> *I NEED YOUR HELP!*
> Z77X-U3DH
> 3770 Not overclocked (3.9Ghz)
> Win7 64 bit.
> With a 560ti was getting up to 140 fps in BF3. The problem is network latency. Ping in game was 500+. Troubleshooting steps...
> - Local network is fine, no congestion.
> - ping to a particular website on this rig is 400ms+, ping to same website with a system on the same switch 20-40ms; put the z77 system on the same port as the other system, no change.
> - Installed a Dlink NIC. Same problem.
> - Pulled the new NIC and GPU, reset CMOS, load optimal settings, no change.
> - System arrived with F7 BIOS, I flashed to F11, No help.
> - Running latest Atheros driver from Gigabyte site.
> - Set adapter to 100M/Full duplex in windows, LED is green meaning 100Mbps.
> All Win7 updates applied. I've cleared CMOS at least twice and loaded optimal settings.
> Does anyone know of a Linux LiveCD that supports this board well enough to be another troubleshooting step to eliminate/confirm Windows/driver issue?
> I'm at a loss here. Thanks for any assistance!


Your BF3 problem is probably not your PC. It's been all over the EA/BF3 forums, the latest server-side patch borked something up; seems to be related to Punkbuster taking screenshots now, every 15-20 seconds or somesuch, causing 1/2 second pauses or stutters. Try playing on a non-Punkbuster enabled server, and you should have a smooth framerate. Not sure is this server-side bug has been fixed or reverted yet, actually going to go play some BF3 now...


----------



## not5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hipzilla*
> 
> This isn't entirely accurate. My UD5H shipped with BIOS F4 and recognized my 3570k without any issues. If anything, see if maybe your PC Club has a standard 4GB stick of DDR3 that you can pop in to try and boot with? If your board was shipped with an older BIOS maybe it doesn't like that 8GB GSKILL stick.
> Also, no debug codes on the motherboard?


Debug code is db

I took it to PC Club and they popped an 4GB stick in it and it got the same error. They also put in a Sandy Bridge with the same result.


----------



## not5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Dude i don't even understand what is going on, is the board refusing to go into the BIOS at all? If so check with 1 stick of memory, if not then try the backup BIOS, if that doesn't work then RMA it. You probably will have to RMA it, it sounds like the board might be DOA.


Yes it doesn't go into bios... I see the blue UEFI logo screen come up for maybe 3-4 seconds and then it dies with the error code "db"

As explained, I've taken out all sticks except one and moved that one stick around. Plus took it to PC Club and they popped a 4GB stick and another CPU in just to make sure it's the motherboard. So now I'm pretty sure this thing is as dead as Nixon.


----------



## Coolwaters

so if i throw in a Revo drive at 4x my main PCI-E will run at 8x?


----------



## Kindredice

Anyone else have a Gigabyte Z77P-D3 ?


----------



## chocoman

Hi sorry, I posted here earlier this week about my z77 ud5h board behaving weirdly even after passing some stress tests I've done. Summary of my system: i7 3770k, overclocked to 4.2GHz 1.14 Vcore, 8 GB RAM 1600 MHz, GTX 670 stock settings, Win 7 64 bit, running in RAID configuration with Intel Smart Response (SSD Caching). Tests ran, MemTest+ in DOS overnight with no issues, Aida64 CPU,FPU,Memory,Disks and GPU Tests with no issues.

Here's my problem that I need help with. Cache tests on Aida64 fails randomly (all other tests have no issues). This happens at stock conditions with optimized BIOS defaults as well. I have tried both F9d and F8 BIOS and it behaves the same as far as I can tell.

The OS has been quite stable since the F9d BIOS update but my games still behave strangely sometimes. When I play for extended periods i.e. 2 hours, the sound suddenly gets cut off mid game (its an easy fix wit plug/replug), but almost always, the game crashes a few minutes after. (TF2 in particular).

Other games while not having sound oddities (yet...), just crashes randomly as well. I suspect the Realtek sound format to be the culprit here. I tested my speakers with another system with no troubles. Any else having sound issues? advices, tips please? Thanks for any help!!


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> Your BF3 problem is probably not your PC. It's been all over the EA/BF3 forums, the latest server-side patch borked something up; seems to be related to Punkbuster taking screenshots now, every 15-20 seconds or somesuch, causing 1/2 second pauses or stutters. Try playing on a non-Punkbuster enabled server, and you should have a smooth framerate. Not sure is this server-side bug has been fixed or reverted yet, actually going to go play some BF3 now...


I play BF3 all the time, however almost always on my clans server, and have never experienced this issue.

Playing on a non-punkbuster server? Enjoy getting owned by hacks









Try uninstalling and reinstalling game. If that doesn't work, reinstall OS. Game issues can be almost anything.


----------



## Conners

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chocoman*
> 
> Hi sorry, I posted here earlier this week about my z77 ud5h board behaving weirdly even after passing some stress tests I've done. Summary of my system: i7 3770k, overclocked to 4.2GHz 1.14 Vcore, 8 GB RAM 1600 MHz, GTX 670 stock settings, Win 7 64 bit, running in RAID configuration with Intel Smart Response (SSD Caching). Tests ran, MemTest+ in DOS overnight with no issues, Aida64 CPU,FPU,Memory,Disks and GPU Tests with no issues.
> Here's my problem that I need help with. Cache tests on Aida64 fails randomly (all other tests have no issues). This happens at stock conditions with optimized BIOS defaults as well. I have tried both F9d and F8 BIOS and it behaves the same as far as I can tell.
> The OS has been quite stable since the F9d BIOS update but my games still behave strangely sometimes. When I play for extended periods i.e. 2 hours, the sound suddenly gets cut off mid game (its an easy fix wit plug/replug), but almost always, the game crashes a few minutes after. (TF2 in particular).
> Other games while not having sound oddities (yet...), just crashes randomly as well. I suspect the Realtek sound format to be the culprit here. I tested my speakers with another system with no troubles. Any else having sound issues? advices, tips please? Thanks for any help!!


Add Vcore


----------



## DubTx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> So you are saying if you hook up another NIC that you have the same issue? Then the issue would be your ISP or perhaps the cable is messed up or somthing.


Thanks, Sin. After yanking everything from the box and still seeing the problem I walked away in frustration. When I came back after a few hours the problem was gone. I'm assuming that a few remaining Windows patched got applied. Very weird indeed. I knew it wasn't an ISP issue because another PC on the same ethernet switch didn't have the issue. Thanks again!


----------



## roxxphatcox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> What? ASUS? What CPU? What happens?
> .


I5 2500k , cold boot always goes haywire and into a boot loop (between 5-20 boots before I must either load optimized def or enter bios)

Regardless of Bios version.


----------



## steve210

My computer boots up in 15 seconds it's all good hear


----------



## irfy

**** F9e Q-Flash not working just hangs can anyone double check ****

Back to F8 5GHz still boots same settings as f9e


----------



## Ali Man

Sorry for the late reply. The Wifi internet was actually the access point and the internet connection itself.

As for the sleeping mode, it only works on optimized settings and not when I input my own. This happens with both F8D and F9E. F9E is even worse as whenever I restart the computer, it actually shuts down and then turns on after a few seconds and this happens for each restart.

Switched back to bios F8. This is my first time using Gigabyte, hardware-wise it's superb. The build quality of the motherboard speaks for itself. However, software-wise, its utter crap. A high-end mobo such as a UD5 and not having a built in fan controller except for the main CPU header and another one. Would switch back to AsRock for Haswell.

And yes, I did reflash the bios again, just as you mentioned.


----------



## tfouto

Hi,

My fan controller (3) of my ud5h just died. The fan is working, just tried on other controllers...

What should i do? RMA my board?


----------



## Hellfighter

Hey everyone, also getting the Power Surge on Hub Port, ignoring it now, right now on F8 BIOS. Also finding this weird item in Device Manager called "PCI Simple Communications Controller", not related to anything I have plugged in, anyone know what it is?


----------



## ElectricDelta

For the "PCI Simple Communications Controller", you need to install the "Intel Management Engine Interface" driver, a.k.a. "ME 8", which you can get either off the Gigabyte website (Ver. 8.0.0.1351 showing currently for the UD5H) or the Intel website (Ver. 8.0.10.1464 showing currently http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=21201&ProdId=3442&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%207%20%2864-bit%29*&DownloadType=). I've installed the one from Intel, since it appears to be newer; and it seems to be working fine here. There's a note on the Intel page about what it is for, but it is incredibly vague... maybe someone else will chime in with more info.


----------



## Hokies83

Quick question..

Will 2 Asus DC II fit on this board? they take up 3 slots each.. i know a 2 slot will fit on top and a DC II on the bottom question is will 2 fit..
even so they would be quite close to one another may create a heat issue..


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quick question..
> 
> Will 2 Asus DC II fit on this board? they take up 3 slots each.. i know a 2 slot will fit on top and a DC II on the bottom question is will 2 fit..
> even so they would be quite close to one another may create a heat issue..


Wrong
A 3 slot card will fit on top and a 3 slot card will fit on the bottom too
My old Gigabyte EX58-UD5 has this limitation of the 2 slot (only) top pcie and yet, I ran a 6870 CF with no clearance between the cards









A heat issue is something else but nothing you can't handle imo
Here's mine:


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> For the "PCI Simple Communications Controller", you need to install the "Intel Management Engine Interface" driver, a.k.a. "ME 8", which you can get either off the Gigabyte website (Ver. 8.0.0.1351 showing currently for the UD5H) or the Intel website (Ver. 8.0.10.1464 showing currently http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=21201&ProdId=3442&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%207%20%2864-bit%29*&DownloadType=). I've installed the one from Intel, since it appears to be newer; and it seems to be working fine here. There's a note on the Intel page about what it is for, but it is incredibly vague... maybe someone else will chime in with more info.


but what it does? what is that thing? i thought it was marvel sata controllers


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> but what it does? what is that thing? i thought it was marvel sata controllers


Intel® Management Engine Interface (Intel® ME Interface) Provides thermal management for Intel® Desktop Boards. The Intel® Management Engine Interface (Intel® ME Interface) is the interface between the Intel® Management Engine firmware and the host. Drivers and applications on the host that wish to interact with Intel® Management Engine through host interface would use the Intel® ME Interface host windows driver.

Its a remote access driver.

Unless you plan to put the PC in a remote location where it can't
be accessed it's probably not that much use to you.


----------



## Ali Man

Another update:

I apologize for blaming giga's bios, but since after I upgraded to F9d bios, after that all the other bioses that I've upgraded or downgraded to doesn't make the mouse or keyboard work after putting it to sleep. I hate no idea that what's going on and before it used to come out of sleep pretty easily.

Bioses I've tested with this prob:

F7, F8, F9d, F9e.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Intel® Management Engine Interface (Intel® ME Interface) Provides thermal management for Intel® Desktop Boards. The Intel® Management Engine Interface (Intel® ME Interface) is the interface between the Intel® Management Engine firmware and the host. Drivers and applications on the host that wish to interact with Intel® Management Engine through host interface would use the Intel® ME Interface host windows driver.
> Its a remote access driver.
> Unless you plan to put the PC in a remote location where it can't
> be accessed it's probably not that much use to you.


thanks sir


----------



## 2therock

Take care using all these beta BIOS's. If your board will not run om the latest official from Gigabyte then the answer is not the betas but that's what betas are for I guess.

I got on the phone and in a email volley with Gigabyte tech support and mentioned the betas found on TT and they in no way shape or form admit to knowing of them or support anything but whats up on their site.

Sometimes these betas are posted with no description of their design and that's like playing poker blindfolded.


----------



## stasio

It's already stated on the top of first page on TT forum,but people like you don't know how to read.


----------



## mandrix

I don't have a problem with using Betas, but one would expect at least some information about what it's supposed to fix at this point in the boards life. Then if it works, good, if it doesn't oh well you tried it and now you know. The whole problem here is the fixes seem to be bouncing around between SB compatibility and KB/mouse functionality, and you don't know which witch is which, so to speak.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> It's already stated on the top of first page on TT forum,but people like you don't know how to read.


Sure, in the form of a download link with no info as to whats changed, tweaked or whatever.


----------



## roxxphatcox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quick question..
> Will 2 Asus DC II fit on this board? they take up 3 slots each.. i know a 2 slot will fit on top and a DC II on the bottom question is will 2 fit..
> even so they would be quite close to one another may create a heat issue..


Yes


----------



## cri123

Hello all, new to this thread.

I just installed my new IB 3570K on a Z77X-D3H Gigabyte, and it seems to be all smooth for now in normal settings. No OC yet.

I have two issues for now:
- no idea which USB ports support the advertised On/Off Charge, I do not see any red USB header on the mobo as advertised by Gigabyte
- I cannot properly install and run ET6. At installation, it gives me a flash ocx registration error  but the installer completes without complaining. Then, when I try to run it, I get a DLL entry error 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## DeXel

I found this. Hope it helps.

Download latest version from Gigabyte website.


----------



## cri123

Stupid me, I did not notice I was installing an old version of ET. Got the latest one (B12.0525.1), uninstalled old one, reboot, tried the new install.

Crash with:



Back to BIOS for OC


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cri123*
> 
> Stupid me, I did not notice I was installing an old version of ET. Got the latest one (B12.0525.1), uninstalled old one, reboot, tried the new install.
> Crash with:
> 
> Back to BIOS for OC


You should overclock through the BIOS in the first place...


----------



## mandrix

You can try the Gigabyte Tweak Launcher. I prefer to use the BIOS settings myself, but that's me, others find it useful.


----------



## Hellfighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> For the "PCI Simple Communications Controller", you need to install the "Intel Management Engine Interface" driver, a.k.a. "ME 8", which you can get either off the Gigabyte website (Ver. 8.0.0.1351 showing currently for the UD5H) or the Intel website (Ver. 8.0.10.1464 showing currently http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=21201&ProdId=3442&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%207%20%2864-bit%29*&DownloadType=). I've installed the one from Intel, since it appears to be newer; and it seems to be working fine here. There's a note on the Intel page about what it is for, but it is incredibly vague... maybe someone else will chime in with more info.


Thanks, that stopped the mysterious device alert, it looks like something for Turbo-boost, but I could be wrong. That Power Surge on USB Hub alert is still around, can't figure out what's causing it. Already reset the BIOS, updated to F8, and checked the ports. According to the notification window, it's telling me it's occurring with a USB 3.0 port, any guesses?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> You should overclock through the BIOS in the first place...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You can try the Gigabyte Tweak Launcher. I prefer to use the BIOS settings myself, but that's me, others find it useful.


ET is used for other things besides OC the cpu (i.e., creating a fan profile for the cpu or system fans, etc.).

I don't recall having any issues installing this application, but you may want to do a complete uninstall, and then try installing in Safe Mode. Also, install as Administrator.

Not sure why you are looking to install ET, but if it is solely for OCing then I agree with the others in that it is better to OC outside of Windows.


----------



## s4e8

UD5H F9f BIOS up with NO info?!


----------



## 2therock

If you are posting about what is posted over on TT, you have to go to the end of the thread as well as the 1st post to get an idea.
He announces it in a reply. But its still terribly vague.
Either he does not know or is so strapped for time or what ever but I tell you I am more careful about trying a beta BIOS than to just load and hope if you know what I mean.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Take care using all these beta BIOS's. If your board will not run om the latest official from Gigabyte then the answer is not the betas but that's what betas are for I guess.
> I got on the phone and in a email volley with Gigabyte tech support and mentioned the betas found on TT and they in no way shape or form admit to knowing of them or support anything but whats up on their site.
> Sometimes these betas are posted with no description of their design and that's like playing poker blindfolded.


I'm running F9d for my Z77X-UD5H -- do you suppose I'm running *counterfeit* BIOS that was created by someone other than Gigabyte??


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I'm running F9d for my Z77X-UD5H -- do you suppose I'm running *counterfeit* BIOS that was created by someone other than Gigabyte??


Unless you downloaded it from their Webb site, yes. Sometimes an official BIOS will be posted on TT before it shows up there but if you ask Gigabyte about the betas and such you will get no help on anything other than whats on their site.


----------



## Sin0822

no. TT forums is GB's official USA forums. You cannot make your own BIOS, you can mod it to add in new firmware for devices like LAN or SATA controllers, but you cannot make a counterfeit BIOS, and no one who has the ability to mod them would do something like that.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roxxphatcox*
> 
> I5 2500k , cold boot always goes haywire and into a boot loop (between 5-20 boots before I must either load optimized def or enter bios)
> Regardless of Bios version.


having similar problems too, sometimes my pc will boot loop 2~4 times before i can enter windows,do not need to load optimized default or enter bios for me.
on latest bios f9 for 77x-d3h i5 2500k.


----------



## Sin0822

so both of you have D3H?


----------



## fasty

Sin0822 - I'm still having "sleep" issues with my 2500K in UD5H, BIOS official F8, Win7 64 bit.

The only way I can wake the machine is by pressing the "Power" button. This always makes it restart a couple of times, then it goes through the BIOS splash screen and _sometimes_ awakes properly in Windows. Most times it fails though.
I've not got any add-on cards installed, and no overclocking at the moment. All drivers are the latest.
Apart from the sleep issue, it seems completely robust.

Is it worth trying a newer beta BIOS? None of the earlier ones seem to make any improvement.
Is there any possibility that my power supply could affect this issue?

Thanks for your advice!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> Sin0822 - I'm still having "sleep" issues with my 2500K in UD5H, BIOS official F8, Win7 64 bit.
> The only way I can wake the machine is by pressing the "Power" button. This always makes it restart a couple of times, then it goes through the BIOS splash screen and _sometimes_ awakes properly in Windows. Most times it fails though.
> I've not got any add-on cards installed, and no overclocking at the moment. All drivers are the latest.
> Apart from the sleep issue, it seems completely robust.
> Is it worth trying a newer beta BIOS? None of the earlier ones seem to make any improvement.
> Is there any possibility that my power supply could affect this issue?
> Thanks for your advice!


Try F9E and turn off CPu PLL Overvoltage(disable it)


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Try F9E and turn off CPu PLL Overvoltage(disable it)


OK, will try. Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated!


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> no. TT forums is GB's official USA forums. You cannot make your own BIOS, you can mod it to add in new firmware for devices like LAN or SATA controllers, but you cannot make a counterfeit BIOS, and no one who has the ability to mod them would do something like that.


Thanks,
I will say I have had conversations with two Gigabyte phone techs and they deny any affiliation with Tweak Town and have no inkling of the BIOS files posted there.








It was enough for me to change the subject in fear they would go after my warranty if they got wind of me trying anything outside of F4 & F8.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> having similar problems too, sometimes my pc will boot loop 2~4 times before i can enter windows,do not need to load optimized default or enter bios for me.
> on latest bios f9 for 77x-d3h i5 2500k.


In case no one has suggested it, try cold booting with just a mouse and keyboard attached. I have a eSATA device causing me cold boot blues.


----------



## cab2

Thank you.

My Z77X-UD5H shipped with F6, I updated immediately to F8. Had problem saving memory timings and boot sequence so I loaded F9d from tweaktown.com through some non-nondescript URL in mediafire.com

If these are Gigabyte *genuine* BIOS why don't they distribute them through their website?????

I presume the BIOS installer checks the file and would not install it if it wasn't kosher. But why is Gigabyte doing this? It's hurting their reputation.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Thank you.
> My Z77X-UD5H shipped with F6, I updated immediately to F8. Had problem saving memory timings and boot sequence so I loaded F9d from tweaktown.com through some non-nondescript URL in mediafire.com
> If these are Gigabyte *genuine* BIOS why don't they distribute them through their website?????
> I presume the BIOS installer checks the file and would not install it if it wasn't kosher. But why is Gigabyte doing this? It's hurting their reputation.


Gigabyte will post a BETA on their site, I have seen them, but if you contact tech support via email or phone they do not knowledge the TT site or any of it's beta's. Whats going on behind the scenes there is unknown to me but as far as tech Gigabyte support, they have no idea.

I'm not doubting some kind of affiliation with TT & Gigabyte, just stating what I found while on a long session with a phone tech that ended up with them recommending I RMA the board.

I called them while on F8. after a while I asked "What about the 9c Beta BIOS? Do you want to try it?" I ended up on hold while he asked about it and then answering questions as to what I was talking about. They had no clue about them or TT. So.............

I want to make sure any readers here know I am not calling BS on TT, I have been a member there for years and have seen some very happy campers from the BIOS files they post there.


----------



## irfy

*** F9f no more abnormal voltage reading..no extra benchmark option under misc menu. Option for enabling or disabling PLL not present. Q-flash working, profiles saving loading etc working.
Samsung green voltage detected 1.524 prev F9e detected correct 1.35 (no biggy)

Extra option added to force to pcix4

Dialed in settings booted 1st time . I just hope boot loop issues are sorted fingers crossed.


----------



## cab2

UD5H with F9d -- When resuming from suspend S3 the CPU fan stops for a few seconds then restarts again. I hope they fix that.


----------



## afodor1

i have a ga z77x ud3h board but cannot see either on board or pci display. getting a 1 long 2 short beeps on startup. took computer to store and they tested cpu in another board but same model and it got the same beeps. called intel and they think its the motherboard while computer store said
s its the cpu. anyone help me? cant find the beep codes either.


----------



## Conners

I would venture to say it's the ram or video card. Reseat both. If no workie try with one stick on ram.


----------



## blazed_1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afodor1*
> 
> i have a ga z77x ud3h board but cannot see either on board or pci display. getting a 1 long 2 short beeps on startup. took computer to store and they tested cpu in another board but same model and it got the same beeps. called intel and they think its the motherboard while computer store said
> s its the cpu. anyone help me? cant find the beep codes either.


If the cpu was tested in another mobo with different ram and gpu I don't see how it can't be the cpu. I'm no help with the beeps but do you get a debug code on the bottom right display? Those should at least be listed in the manual.


----------



## afodor1

the cpu isnt in the board now but when the cpu was in i think it was A9 whic if i remember it was something about a bad socket. the store tested every component and ive only had the cpu for 2 months but intel wants me to call gigabyte which has no toll free number and see what they say about it.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Thanks,
> I will say I have had conversations with two Gigabyte phone techs and they deny any affiliation with Tweak Town and have no inkling of the BIOS files posted there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was enough for me to change the subject in fear they would go after my warranty if they got wind of me trying anything outside of F4 & F8.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> In case no one has suggested it, try cold booting with just a mouse and keyboard attached. I have a eSATA device causing me cold boot blues.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Gigabyte will post a BETA on their site, I have seen them, but if you contact tech support via email or phone they do not knowledge the TT site or any of it's beta's. Whats going on behind the scenes there is unknown to me but as far as tech Gigabyte support, they have no idea.
> I'm not doubting some kind of affiliation with TT & Gigabyte, just stating what I found while on a long session with a phone tech that ended up with them recommending I RMA the board.
> I called them while on F8. after a while I asked "What about the 9c Beta BIOS? Do you want to try it?" I ended up on hold while he asked about it and then answering questions as to what I was talking about. They had no clue about them or TT. So.............
> I want to make sure any readers here know I am not calling BS on TT, I have been a member there for years and have seen some very happy campers from the BIOS files they post there.


You know that you can click on multiple quotes and respond in just one post. No sense in bloating the forum up unnecessarily.


----------



## -Ste-

Need a little help

i have just bought a Logitech G510 keyboard and my system wont turn on at all but will turn on with a Logitech G15

i know the new keyboard is working as i am on my backup system (gigabyte p35c-ds3r)

Using f9e bios


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Thanks,
> I will say I have had conversations with two Gigabyte phone techs and they deny any affiliation with Tweak Town and have no inkling of the BIOS files posted there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was enough for me to change the subject in fear they would go after my warranty if they got wind of me trying anything outside of F4 & F8.


lol, phone tech = noobs

BTW i saw someday a beta bios in official gigabyte website for z77x ud3h, so they are ok, also those boards have dual bios, so go for it


----------



## dotslasher

I just installed my GA-Z77X-UD5H + I7 3770 + 16GB Gskil memory.

I have a few questions regarding this mobo.

1st my Corsair k90 is not recognized during bootup and as a result I cannot enter the bios.
2nd I used my old Logitech G11 keyboard and that one works but I am unable to flash the bios. I've formatted an USB stick to Fat32 downloaded the latest official Bios and put it on the root of the stick.
I enter the BIOS and select F8 for Q-Flash but I cannot save nor load a new bios. The buttons don't do anything. all I can do is EXIT.

I'm not in the backup bios, Im in the primary bios. What am I doing wrong?

Another thing I've noticed is with the optimized setup defaults I can hear an electrical noise when I scroll down in Google Chrome.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> You know that you can click on multiple quotes and respond in just one post. No sense in bloating the forum up unnecessarily.


I have no idea what you're talking about.


----------



## ElectricDelta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dotslasher*
> 
> I just installed my GA-Z77X-UD5H + I7 3770 + 16GB Gskil memory.
> I have a few questions regarding this mobo.
> 1st my Corsair k90 is not recognized during bootup and as a result I cannot enter the bios.
> 2nd I used my old Logitech G11 keyboard and that one works but I am unable to flash the bios. I've formatted an USB stick to Fat32 downloaded the latest official Bios and put it on the root of the stick.
> I enter the BIOS and select F8 for Q-Flash but I cannot save nor load a new bios. The buttons don't do anything. all I can do is EXIT.
> I'm not in the backup bios, Im in the primary bios. What am I doing wrong?
> Another thing I've noticed is with the optimized setup defaults I can hear an electrical noise when I scroll down in Google Chrome.


Make sure the USB flash drive with the new BIOS is plugged into one of the rear ports on the UD5H mobo, before powering on, and disconnect all other USB devices, except the mouse and keyboard. If a USB flash drive isn't already recognized (seems to happen with the USB ports downstream of the onboard USB hubs), you won't get access to load/save BIOS.


----------



## ElectricDelta

Intel has posted a new Management Engine Interface (ME8) driver today for the Z77 series boards, Version 8.0.13.1502 :

http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=21527&ProdId=3442&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%207%20%2864-bit%29*&DownloadType=

Installed and running here on UD5H, no problems.


----------



## dotslasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> Make sure the USB flash drive with the new BIOS is plugged into one of the rear ports on the UD5H mobo, before powering on, and disconnect all other USB devices, except the mouse and keyboard. If a USB flash drive isn't already recognized (seems to happen with the USB ports downstream of the onboard USB hubs), you won't get access to load/save BIOS.


yeah I figured it out, I plugged it in the back and it worked fine.

Buuuut I just flashed it, all went fine but I lost my Raid 0 array! It's now in the Failed state and only 1 disk is a raid member. dafuq?

And now after Flashing to F8 my entire system is running Super slow. Booting up is in slowmotion and I hear electrical noise from the mobo.

When I'm in windows the system is also running in slow motion animations (like minimizing/maximizing) are extremely delayed.

The bios was updated successfully. Prior to F8 I was running F4 the bios that shipped with the board.
What happened?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Sure, in the form of a download link with no info as to whats changed, tweaked or whatever.


People do this for free, FOR FREE...man! People need to stop complaining about others using their personal time to help a stranger in need.

So many people b**** about free community driven support, advice, and beta bios's. Simple solution, stop using these resources and deal with the manufacturer directly.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> People do this for free, FOR FREE...man! People need to stop complaining about others using their personal time to help a stranger in need.
> So many people b**** about free community driven support, advice, and beta bios's. Simple solution, stop using these resources and deal with the manufacturer directly.


Funny!


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dotslasher*
> 
> Buuuut I just flashed it, all went fine but I lost my Raid 0 array! It's now in the Failed state and only 1 disk is a raid member. dafuq?
> What happened?


Sorry to hear that. It has happened to me also because I did not know to immediately after flashing a new BIOS or loading optimized defaults to go and change it back to RAID. A new BIOS or optimized defaults, defaults it back to AHCI. I feel your pain.

I think if you make it into Windows there is nothing you can do. I hope I'm wrong for your sake.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Funny!


but TRUE!


----------



## dotslasher

anyone know why my PSU is whining constantly under low to idle load with the UD5H?
Didnt have this with my x58 asus board.

When stressing the GPU for example the whine goes away.

When surfing and scrolling in a browser using the scrollbar will make a high pitched noise.

I tried disabling C1 and power saving modes but it's still the same.

I tried my AX850 corsair PSU and it does the same thing.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dotslasher*
> 
> anyone know why my PSU is whining constantly under low to idle load with the UD5H?
> Didnt have this with my x58 asus board.
> When stressing the GPU for example the whine goes away.
> When surfing and scrolling in a browser using the scrollbar will make a high pitched noise.
> I tried disabling C1 and power saving modes but it's still the same.
> I tried my AX850 corsair PSU and it does the same thing.


I've heard of coil whine on the AX850, but not really on the HX1000. Seems odd both PSU's would whine the same, under the same conditions, as I am pretty sure they have different OEM's. I'd double check and make sure the board isn't grounded out in some weird way. Just seems odd diff PSU manufactures would whine the same.

And I should add, both are premium PSU's.


----------



## Sin0822

First of all to clear some things up about TT forums, as you see it says manufacturer specific forums, if i cared too i could take stasio's links and post them here, but the fact is it is a pain and there is no need. Just like it says on GB's website BETA BIOSes are BETA BIOSes, they aren't official release, but they wont void your warranty. They just haven't gone through the whole validation process that the final release BIOSes go through, even though they are validated. Some have different fixes than others, and others are more outdated.

Me, Stasio, and LSDMEASAP all have direct contact with GIGABYTE and their BIOS team and as such none of us would post something we made ourselves and claim it was from GB, if we did that they we would say the BIOS is modded or something along those lines. Stasio is provided the BETA BIOSes from GB BIOS engineers and then he uploads them to mediafire, as TT doesn't take responsibility for them, nor cares to host them, they would probably want GB to pay them for that.

Can I ask, do you see other manufacturers posting every beta BIOS on their website? Maybe 1 or two, but if you go over to HWBot.org and check out the ivy bridge section and there is a mega thread with hundreds of BETAs for all Z77 boards that can OC. The BETAs are posted by members who work for the companies or are friends with the company.

Also notice how the number of people that it says are on TT GB section at any time is always in the thousands, that is b/c TT doesn't refresh the number, so they can show GB hey look how many hits your section gets LOL.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dotslasher*
> 
> I just installed my GA-Z77X-UD5H + I7 3770 + 16GB Gskil memory.
> I have a few questions regarding this mobo.
> 1st my Corsair k90 is not recognized during bootup and as a result I cannot enter the bios.
> 2nd I used my old Logitech G11 keyboard and that one works but I am unable to flash the bios. I've formatted an USB stick to Fat32 downloaded the latest official Bios and put it on the root of the stick.
> I enter the BIOS and select F8 for Q-Flash but I cannot save nor load a new bios. The buttons don't do anything. all I can do is EXIT.
> I'm not in the backup bios, Im in the primary bios. What am I doing wrong?
> Another thing I've noticed is with the optimized setup defaults I can hear an electrical noise when I scroll down in Google Chrome.


Yea the K90 and many logitech keyboards wont work properly in the UEFI, they use the same board maker for the keyboard electrics. Try BIOS F6I or F6K one of them has a fix in there to allow those keyboards to function properly, and you should be able to run without issues with that BIOS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afodor1*
> 
> the cpu isnt in the board now but when the cpu was in i think it was A9 whic if i remember it was something about a bad socket. the store tested every component and ive only had the cpu for 2 months but intel wants me to call gigabyte which has no toll free number and see what they say about it.


If it gave you post code error Ab, that is it telling you it is in the UEFI, however you aren't getting display. You are plugged into the motherboard? but you have a GPU? Try plugging into the GPU. If you are plugged into the board and only the board try another video output.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dotslasher*
> 
> anyone know why my PSU is whining constantly under low to idle load with the UD5H?
> Didnt have this with my x58 asus board.
> When stressing the GPU for example the whine goes away.
> When surfing and scrolling in a browser using the scrollbar will make a high pitched noise.
> I tried disabling C1 and power saving modes but it's still the same.
> I tried my AX850 corsair PSU and it does the same thing.


Well for one your system at idle pulls less than 100W total depending on your GPU. Your PSU might require higher load to operate correctly, try a lower spec PSU. It is very odd i know, but I heard some other user had an issue and he downgraded his PSu and it worked lol.


----------



## mandrix

There are many, many, many people that much appreciate Stasio taking the time to not only post Betas, but constantly updating drivers over at TT the way he does. I certainly do. I seldom have to look any further than Stasio's posts at TT to find what I want/need.


----------



## steve210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDelta*
> 
> Intel has posted a new Management Engine Interface (ME8) driver today for the Z77 series boards, Version 8.0.13.1502 :
> http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=21527&ProdId=3442&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%207%20%2864-bit%29*&DownloadType=
> Installed and running here on UD5H, no problems.


hmm should download these drivers or wait they show up gigabyte website has them


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve210*
> 
> hmm should download these drivers or wait they show up gigabyte website has them


gigabyte takes a lot of time to update (if they ever do it)

and it is the same driver, no changed at all, the same goes for via audio, lan, usb3, etc,


----------



## Sin0822

yea just download it and update. GIGABYTE doesn't do anything to the drivers.


----------



## K1rK

Hi guys,

I've just bought a new Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H and an i5-3570K. I have 2x4GB DDR3 Kingston KHX1866C9D3/4G.

My problem is that I'm getting the error code 51 when I connect a memory at the slots 1 or 3 of my MOBO. I know that this problem it's about Memory initialization error, but I'm not really getting it!

When I plug the memorys at the slots 2 or 4 everything runs well. I've tried to connect an extra DDR3 at slots 1 ou 3 and the error happened again!

Can you pleaze help me with this? Thanks


----------



## 2therock

Just in case, and please don't be insulted, the UD5H memory slots are not in the usual order in the no.1 being closest to the cpu.


----------



## barkeater

2therock

you posted a reply to three posts in three separate posts within an hour or so. My point is, you can click on the "multi" button on each post you want to reply to and then click reply and all three quotes will appear in your reply which you can then reply to in one post instead of replying to each one in three separate posts. Give it a try.


----------



## EvgeniX

have a question: if PCIE 1.1 VGA card can affect OC Ivy bridge???? I think its possible but if any one had this situation with Ivy or sandy?


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Hey guys, havn't been on here for a good month once again... So im back home and want to update my dads BIOS again to the most stable current version. He is running a UD5H and a 2600K. Last BIOS I have flashed to was F8 but it gave me issues, so I went back to F7. Anyone have any suggestions for which to get or which to avoid? Thanks!


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Hey guys, havn't been on here for a good month once again... So im back home and want to update my dads BIOS again to the most stable current version. He is running a UD5H and a 2600K. Last BIOS I have flashed to was F8 but it gave me issues, so I went back to F7. Anyone have any suggestions for which to get or which to avoid? Thanks!


If you are stable on F7, I would suggest to stay on it.

If you wish to try something new, try beta F9d and F9e.


----------



## antonbrk

Unable to resist an open-box UD5H for $99 (via NCIX web outlet on ebay), under the assumption that most UD5H returns that check out as OK by the vendor are due to PEBCAK or correctable issues discussed somewhere in this forum. I will only have 7 days to check it out thoroughly. This is only my second build ever, so I'm wondering from experienced UD5H owners what are your Letterman Top 10 things you recommend that a new UD5H owner be sure to check carefully before a return window closes. Much thanks in advance. I'm optimistic this was a wise buy, and that most issues that might arise are addressable by carefully reading and re-reading suggestions posted here.


----------



## -Ste-

Internal cpu ppl overvoltage (Which was added in F9D) seems to have been removed from the beta bios F9F and F9H

Will this be coming back anytime soon? gone back to F9D for now


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Hey guys, havn't been on here for a good month once again... So im back home and want to update my dads BIOS again to the most stable current version. He is running a UD5H and a 2600K. Last BIOS I have flashed to was F8 but it gave me issues, so I went back to F7. Anyone have any suggestions for which to get or which to avoid? Thanks!


Since you running 26K i would suggest the F9d and up ,there is PLL Overvoltage option and they are very stable at least for me


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Since you running 26K i would suggest the F9d and up ,there is PLL Overvoltage option and they are very stable at least for me


Thanks for the advice, just one question, does the PLL overvoltage opotion make sleep actually work correctly? I couldn't even get sleep to work at 39 multiplier on F7... Ill be able to flash the mobo later tonight or tomorrow morning, just wondering if I should expect sleep to work or not. Thanks!


----------



## DeXel

Disabling PLL overvoltage should make sleep to work, but may cause worse overclock.


----------



## Hellfighter

Got my HAF XM Thursday and after moving everything over, the Power Surge message has completely gone away. I suspect that either something was close to the usb ports, now fully happy!


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Disabling PLL overvoltage should make sleep to work, but may cause worse overclock.


I got the BIOS flashed and disabled PLL overvolt. Sleep still doesn't work right. When I resume sleep my multiplier is different than what I have it set to in the BIOS. For example, PC boots at 3.9 (100x39), works great, I put it to sleep and when it woke up it was at 3.5 (100x35). I guess sleep is just hopeless on the UD5H? At this point I really am disappointed with Gigabyte. This board wasn't cheap, and I really expected great things from it, I understood that in the beginning there would be issues, thats all well and good, but its been quite a few months now and im just not happy with this







. Sin, you have any ideas/advice on this? Im not even over the 40x multiplier and sleep doesn't work right.


----------



## mandrix

Wow. Beta BIOS F9f was a real pain. It wouldn't load my saved profile, and it went into an endless boot loop. I finally just shut it down and hit the clear CMOS button and reinstalled F8. It kept trying to load the backup BIOS again and again, I guess it got corrupted. Ah well, F8 works good, I just am always curious to see what each new BIOS brings.








For those of you who are running F9f on UD5, is anything changed in the BIOS as far as PLL overvolt, etc? Again, just for information purposes, someone may ask and I don't really want to try and load it again right now.


----------



## irfy

***** F9h (With Samsung Green + i7 2600K) Profile voltage shows 1.5v actual voltage gets set to 1.35v But can not change Dram voltage higher than 1.35v.
Causes plenty issues if you cant set Dram voltage.

The benchmark option under misc i believe is now intergrated so your 3d mark scores will be higher slightly

Gigabyte you may aswell give me a job as a tester.


----------



## Triox

Just tried f12h for ud3h and it was a pain. I loaded optimized settings after update but still could not boot to windows. I had to clear cmos and restore windows with dvd.

So i decided to go back to f12g who was pretty stable before. Boot to windows ok but can't enter in bios to load my profile: always a black screen or freezed screen.

So i decided to go back to official f11 from gigabyte site. Loading my profile and windows are ok and pretty stable after 5 hours of p95.

But, i still can't boot to bios, now, after pressing del, i have a black screen or again a freezed screen of bios, no mouse or keyboard are working, i have to reboot or clear cmos each time.

Q-flash and dual bios screens are not working too, just freezed as the rest.

Please help.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triox*
> 
> Just tried f12h for ud3h and it was a pain. I loaded optimized settings after update but still could not boot to windows. I had to clear cmos and restore windows with dvd.
> So i decided to go back to f12g who was pretty stable before. Boot to windows ok but can't enter in bios to load my profile: always a black screen or freezed screen.
> So i decided to go back to official f11 from gigabyte site. Loading my profile and windows are ok and pretty stable after 5 hours of p95.
> But, i still can't boot to bios, now, after pressing del, i have a black screen or again a freezed screen of bios, no mouse or keyboard are working, i have to reboot or clear cmos each time.
> Q-flash and dual bios screens are not working too, just freezed as the rest.
> Please help.


Does it not work at all or just not work in the BIOS? If just can't get to BIOS but otherwise works then you'll need to try plugging into another port.


----------



## Triox

Thx for advice but i tried both of them on all front and back ports. Besides, it works perfectly in windows.

Facts are bios is just freezing/crashing, got a black screen or sometimes it's splitted, options menus are cutted on screen and i can't do anything.


----------



## Sin0822

if you are freezing in the BIOS then your OC isn't very stable.

BTW what keyboard are u using?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> I got the BIOS flashed and disabled PLL overvolt. Sleep still doesn't work right. When I resume sleep my multiplier is different than what I have it set to in the BIOS. For example, PC boots at 3.9 (100x39), works great, I put it to sleep and when it woke up it was at 3.5 (100x35). I guess sleep is just hopeless on the UD5H? At this point I really am disappointed with Gigabyte. This board wasn't cheap, and I really expected great things from it, I understood that in the beginning there would be issues, thats all well and good, but its been quite a few months now and im just not happy with this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Sin, you have any ideas/advice on this? Im not even over the 40x multiplier and sleep doesn't work right.


I have no problem with sleep whatsoever with my 3570K.

Sleep problems are known issues with Sandy Bridge CPUs independent from a board.


----------



## Triox

I'm using a cheap microsoft wireless keyboard 800 (came with a mouse). No problem at all with it in windows.

I'm using your 4.5 DVID oc profile, which is pretty nice, but i'm wondering why bios freezes with f12g, f12h and now f11 since i tried f12h this morning.

Got to clear cmos each time i want to enter bios. Everything is fine when i boot to windows.

Been stable with IBT 10x max memory, Linx 20x max memory (both 75°c max) and p95 for 5 hours (i know it's short but i think it should have crashed before if oc was not stable).


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triox*
> 
> I'm using a cheap microsoft wireless keyboard 800 (came with a mouse). No problem at all with it in windows.
> I'm using your 4.5 DVID oc profile, which is pretty nice, but i'm wondering why bios freezes with f12g, f12h and now f11 since i tried f12h this morning.
> Got to clear cmos each time i want to enter bios. Everything is fine when i boot to windows.
> Been stable with IBT 10x max memory, Linx 20x max memory (both 75°c max) and p95 for 5 hours (i know it's short but i think it should have crashed before if oc was not stable).


okay well what if you don't use the profile? and jut manually input what the profile inputs?


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antonbrk*
> 
> Unable to resist an open-box UD5H for $99 (via NCIX web outlet on ebay), under the assumption that most UD5H returns that check out as OK by the vendor are due to PEBCAK or correctable issues discussed somewhere in this forum. I will only have 7 days to check it out thoroughly. This is only my second build ever, so I'm wondering from experienced UD5H owners what are your Letterman Top 10 things you recommend that a new UD5H owner be sure to check carefully before a return window closes. Much thanks in advance. I'm optimistic this was a wise buy, and that most issues that might arise are addressable by carefully reading and re-reading suggestions posted here.


Its a roll of the dice for sure. I guess I would be concerned of the sellers rating and his quantity of transactions such as 3000 sales with a 98% or better rating would be a good example.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Hey guys, havn't been on here for a good month once again... So im back home and want to update my dads BIOS again to the most stable current version. He is running a UD5H and a 2600K. Last BIOS I have flashed to was F8 but it gave me issues, so I went back to F7. Anyone have any suggestions for which to get or which to avoid? Thanks!


Well, I learned the hard way if it is not broke don't fix it. I have two other systems that are several BIOS versions in the whole and just let them sit. But you say you want a more stable version so you must be in the need. I wish I had saved my F4 on my UD5H.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> Need a little help
> i have just bought a Logitech G510 keyboard and my system wont turn on at all but will turn on with a Logitech G15
> i know the new keyboard is working as i am on my backup system (gigabyte p35c-ds3r)
> Using f9e bios


Yeh, I see plenty keyboard issues posted on this board. Mostly about wireless ones not being able to get into BIOS. Good luck.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Well, I learned the hard way if it is not broke don't fix it. I have two other systems that are several BIOS versions in the whole and just let them sit. But you say you want a more stable version so you must be in the need. I wish I had saved my F4 on my UD5H.


you can get any BIOS here http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647

Also did you get new one back?


----------



## steve210

I think I'll just stay with f11 bois on my ud3h it is stable as she wrote no problems at all even when I overclocked it to 4.5ghz three days ago but I put it back to 3.4ghz with turbos enable


----------



## ivanlabrie

Just ordered an ud5h-wb, so I should get it in a couple of weeks...








Let's hope I don't run into any bootlooping issues (I have, in the past with my former z68ma-d2h-b3, but I fixed it via a cmos reset).
I'd be happy to join this fine club


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triox*
> 
> I'm using a cheap microsoft wireless keyboard 800 (came with a mouse). No problem at all with it in windows.
> I'm using your 4.5 DVID oc profile, which is pretty nice, but i'm wondering why bios freezes with f12g, f12h and now f11 since i tried f12h this morning.
> Got to clear cmos each time i want to enter bios. Everything is fine when i boot to windows.
> Been stable with IBT 10x max memory, Linx 20x max memory (both 75°c max) and p95 for 5 hours (i know it's short but i think it should have crashed before if oc was not stable).


What happens if you clear cmos, enter bios and do a optimized default, then save and exit. Can you then do a restart and enter bios without issue?


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> you can get any BIOS here http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647
> Also did you get new one back?


Thanks, You asking about the RMA prompted me to call them. I got the we received it email 6/29.
Today he says its in the hands of a tech as we speak and should be either replaced/repaired and shipped this week.

This rock solid stable Q6600 / GA-EP45-UD3P I am using now is a hard act to follow.

When I get it back I'm gonna bench test boot it, then if its posts correctly put it in the case and test my new RAM (see my sig) front and center.
If it passes I will connect my two HDD's and create a new RAID1 array so I can load a fresh copy of Win7 x64.
Then chip sets and the usual chain of events ending with all the Windows updates, all before connecting anything other than the Mouse, keyboard and Ethernet cable.

The only thing I will change in the BIOS at 1st will be the boot logo.

I would think I need not to load optimized defaults or reset CMOS after getting it back?

How does the chain of events sound to you guys?


----------



## Triox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> okay well what if you don't use the profile? and jut manually input what the profile inputs?


same problem if i manually set the profile instead of loading it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> What happens if you clear cmos, enter bios and do a optimized default, then save and exit. Can you then do a restart and enter bios without issue?


.

yes, after an optimized default, i can restart normally and go into bios without any problem but as soon as i try to oc it, it freezes.
here's two pics of what i see when i try to go back to my oc settings or just try to load Sin0822 4,5 profiles (fix vcore and dvid).

did a memtest today and everything was fine, if it can help.
my max oc was 4,6 at 75°c max with ibt (with f12g) so i hardly believe that cpu could been damaged.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triox*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> same problem if i manually set the profile instead of loading it.
> .
> yes, after an optimized default, i can restart normally and go into bios without any problem but as soon as i try to oc it, it freezes.
> here's two pics of what i see when i try to go back to my oc settings or just try to load Sin0822 4,5 profiles (fix vcore and dvid).
> did a memtest today and everything was fine, if it can help.
> my max oc was 4,6 at 75°c max with ibt (with f12g) so i hardly believe that cpu could been damaged.


Scrap the profile (no offense Sin)

Start from scratch. There are no shortcuts in OC. Your current OC via profile is creating some kind of instability with your system and your never going to figure it out unless you take one step at a time.

I'd suggest using straight overclock (not offset) to begin with just to make it easier to troubleshoot. Increase cpu multiplier one step at a time and test stability with ibt, prime or whatever. when that fails, start increasing your vcore. make sure you have all of the offset stuff and power saving features disabled first. Also, make sure you have windows power setting on high performance (no sleep). Keep track of all your changes in a notepad or something so you can refer back. Some like to use a table; whatever. If it all seems too complicated, set everything to stock and just forget OC'ing. People who rely on the profile's or automated OC'ing programs are always going to hit the same wall. It will fail and you have no idea why and therefore will not know what to change.


----------



## Triox

Thx, will try this tomorrow.

Bw: windows power setting is already on high performance.


----------



## Blast

I'm starting up my computer and I receive a debug code "53". Any idea what that means?

The few occurrences I find online claim that it is a memory related issue, but my memory is labeled as compatible on G.Skills site. (Ripjaws X 2133mhz)

Tried each stick individually in all slots and have reset my CMOS.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triox*
> 
> Thx, will try this tomorrow.
> Bw: windows power setting is already on high performance.


Hey if you try a BIOS profile that was made with a much older BIOS then the profile might not work correctly, it is best to use them with the same version BIOS it was made. I am in the process of updating the profiles. But try without the profile, copy down the settings once you load it and then don't save the settings, then just put in your own settings. i think the BIOS you have now is much newer and has settings that the profile doesn't thus it would screw things up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I'm starting up my computer and I receive a debug code "53". Any idea what that means?
> The few occurrences I find online claim that it is a memory related issue, but my memory is labeled as compatible on G.Skills site. (Ripjaws X 2133mhz)


'
no idea that is odd, u sure 53 and not 51? Try one stick at a time, try slots 1 and 2 right?


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> no idea that is odd, u sure 53 and not 51? Try one stick at a time, try slots 1 and 2 right?


Yeah, I updated my post and mentioned what all I have tried.

"Tried each stick individually in all slots and have reset my CMOS."


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> Yeah, I updated my post and mentioned what all I have tried.
> "Tried each stick individually in all slots and have reset my CMOS."


sometimes memory is defective. more times than not it is. however can you help me out and tell me what happens when you try each stick on its own? It wont boot up at all? you cannot get into the BIOS? ONot even with 1 stick in the last slot furthest away from the CPU? or the slot second from the CPU?


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> sometimes memory is defective. more times than not it is. however can you help me out and tell me what happens when you try each stick on its own? It wont boot up at all? you cannot get into the BIOS? ONot even with 1 stick in the last slot furthest away from the CPU? or the slot second from the CPU?


Nope. Both of the sticks give the same result. All possible combinations result in error 53. I even checked the pins on the CPU socket (all of which were fine).


----------



## Sin0822

RMA it then. Did you try another memory set?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> Nope. Both of the sticks give the same result. All possible combinations result in error 53. I even checked the pins on the CPU socket (all of which were fine).


No offense but you don't exactly overwhelm us with information. Please fill in your system specs so that you can receive more useful recommendations. I assume your current system specs is of your old rig.

My guess is that either your ram is not compatible (assuming your using a Gigabyte GA-z77x-ud5h board), or you have a bad stick(s). Again, without knowing the model number of the ram its just a shot in the dark.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> Nope. Both of the sticks give the same result. All possible combinations result in error 53. I even checked the pins on the CPU socket (all of which were fine).


Your G-skill X rip jaws are fine as far as compatibility. Rather or not its the board or the sticks can be discovered by trying them in a another system but if you do not have access to one its tough. And finding known good ram to try in your board is tough too.

If I were close by I would lend you my spare set of Sammy green ram.

My money is on the board being bad but ...................


----------



## Blast

I got the computer somewhat working. I think there was a short or something somewhere o.o?

I removed the board, fired it up away from metal, worked fine-ish.

Back in the case, fires up.

But the board still gives me issues. Most of the time it will hang at b2, AE, or A0 (when it hangs, I receive no video feed). On the rare occasion I receive a video signal, I go into the bios. After I am in the bios for a few minutes the computer will spontaneously lose video and my videocard fan will start throttling. (This is NOT a video card issue.)

In the event that I can't get to bios and the system doesn't hang, it will continuously go through the startup sequence on the debugger. It will get to about 72, briefly 9x (x being something I cannot see due to the shortness of it being there) and then it will start back from 15. Fans throttle during this process.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I got the computer somewhat working. I think there was a short or something somewhere o.o?
> I removed the board, fired it up away from metal, worked fine-ish.
> Back in the case, fires up.
> On the rare occasion I receive a video signal, I go into the bios. After I am in the bios for a few minutes the computer will spontaneously lose video and my videocard fan will start throttling. (This is NOT a video card issue.)
> In the event that I can't get to bios and the system doesn't hang, it will continuously go through the startup sequence on the debugger. It will get to about 72, briefly 9x (x being something I cannot see due to the shortness of it being there) and then it will start back from 15. Fans throttle during this process.


I think I would remove it from the case again and see how the video works outside the case. And go from there. If it repeats I would RMA. If its fine I would ......... try another case? *** 2therock scratches head***


----------



## Blast

The video worked on the first try when out of the case, but I didn't try it multiple times. I am trying to avoid taking it out of the case as much as possible because the liquid cooling system is a pain to work around XD


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Quick question about the problems I am having with my UDH5 WIFI board - while I am in windows 7 ultimate 64 bit, nothing is plugged into the USB 3.0 ports, but it constantly keeps bleeping at me and telling me that a device has exceeded voltage or something. Will the latest bios fix this?

Also, I have serious issues with the Wired LAN card dropping connectivity on me intermittently. Not sure if it's the onboard card, or if it's the cable... or if it's just Comcast - still trying to get to the bottom of that.


----------



## barkeater

what bios are you using? There have been others that have reported similar error message. Do a search and see what they have tried. If your not using the latest official bios you can try that or the latest beta. Also, make sure you have updated all of your drivers as well. Finally, next time it happens write down exactly what the error message is to make troubleshooting easier.

I have not seen anyone complaining about the LAN and connectivity issues. which LAN port are you using (I am assuming you are using the on-board and not an add-on card)?


----------



## TechieGeek2012

I have not flashed the bios with any updates as yet - I am using the one it shipped with so that is probably the issue. I am using one of the two on-board LAN ports - the bottom one (Local Area Network #2)

I will write down the message next time I see it. I just saw another person who had the same issue and the newest bios / usb drivers apparently stopped it. I will update asap


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> Quick question about the problems I am having with my UDH5 WIFI board - while I am in windows 7 ultimate 64 bit, nothing is plugged into the USB 3.0 ports, but it constantly keeps bleeping at me and telling me that a device has exceeded voltage or something. Will the latest bios fix this?
> Also, I have serious issues with the Wired LAN card dropping connectivity on me intermittently. Not sure if it's the onboard card, or if it's the cable... or if it's just Comcast - still trying to get to the bottom of that.


The bottom is the Atheros GbE LAN chip. And Comcast is definitely worth not ruling out. My whole neighborhood just united in a customer service campaign that had bucket trucks and service techs all over the place for a week. We were getting on screen and audio pixelation that affected the phone and internet so................ They finally got it and everyone got a free month.

Have you loaded the drivers and chip-set ware from the included disc or from Gigabytes download site? I know Gigabyte has updated the USB 3.0 drivers and there may be an updated on Intels site but at least you want better than the included disc.

Are you familiar with Control Panel/Administrative Tools/Event Viewer ? You can get some ideas there to help you track it down. If you see Port error that is described as a DR, DR means "Drive Removable"


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Yeah I was using the included disc. I'll go get everything off the Gigabyte site and update it. And if that doesn't work, I'll grab the USB drivers off the Intel site.

I have tinkered a little in the event viewer, so yes I am a little familiar with it. I'll check that out.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> Yeah I was using the included disc. I'll go get everything off the Gigabyte site and update it. And if that doesn't work, I'll grab the USB drivers off the Intel site.
> I have tinkered a little in the event viewer, so yes I am a little familiar with it. I'll check that out.


Be sure and run with the bare essentials at first and then adding peripherals one at a time doing both cold starts and re-boots on each. I had a eSATA device that would not let me cold boot.

Good luck.


----------



## NOCA

Dunno if this has already been posted, but haven't seen it asked anywhere else, so here it goes:

While looking at the new dominator platinum ram from corsair i fell over this product picture:



As far as i can gather the motherboard in the picture is a Z77X-UD3H, except that the heatsink on the south bridge is silver/metallic instead of the original blue. This is of particular interest to me, as i am looking to build a monochrome ivy bridge build, and no motherboards seem to suit my needs in terms of color scheme. This however would be very close, leaving only the blue vga-connector and the red power button to be dealt with, assuming that the heatsink on the vregs has the same color as the heatsink depicted.

My question is of course how they acquired this heatsink. My initial guess was that they stripped the original heatsinks of paint, but it looks like there is black text on the heatsink, so i'm starting to wonder if it's an engineering sample with pre-production heatsinks or something similar. What are your thoughts on this? And do you guys think that it would be possible to strip the blue heatsinks of paint and get a good looking result?


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOCA*
> 
> My initial guess was that they stripped the original heatsinks of paint, but it looks like there is black text on the heatsink, so i'm starting to wonder if it's an engineering sample with pre-production heatsinks or something similar. What are your thoughts on this? And do you guys think that it would be possible to strip the blue heatsinks of paint and get a good looking result?


You could remove it from the board and gently glass bead it. The blue anodization would be tough to strip chemically if possible at all.


----------



## NOCA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> You could remove it from the board and gently glass bead it. The blue anodization would be tough to strip chemically if possible at all.


Glass bead? Are you talking about sandblasting with glass beads? Anyways, i didn't know if it was anodized or not, are you certain that it is?

Thanks for the input


----------



## Sin0822

yea the board in that picture is an ES sample. They had silver heatsinks.


----------



## NOCA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea the board in that picture is an ES sample. They had silver heatsinks.


Bummer









Thanks for the info though


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOCA*
> 
> Glass bead? Are you talking about sandblasting with glass beads? Anyways, i didn't know if it was anodized or not, are you certain that it is?
> Thanks for the input


Yeh, most machine shops have a booth. You could do it with really low pressure. Wire brushing or Emory cloth would scar and contaminate the metal. Glass beading would still make it a matte finish. I think if you were really patient you could find a matte silver paint and mist it with very light coats until you had full coverage. By misting I mean doing it in super light passes that do not fully cover it at first. Of-course you would want to paint a test item to see what the dried finish would be like.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by EvgeniX View Post
> 
> you can get any BIOS here http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647
> Also did you get new one back?










My board ships tomorrow! Anyone know what service they use? Ground? 3 Day?


----------



## NOCA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Yeh, most machine shops have a booth. You could do it with really low pressure. Wire brushing or Emory cloth would scar and contaminate the metal. Glass beading would still make it a matte finish. I think if you were really patient you could find a matte silver paint and mist it with very light coats until you had full coverage. By misting I mean doing it in super light passes that do not fully cover it at first. Of-course you would want to paint a test item to see what the dried finish would be like.


I have considered the paint option, but i'm worried that it will ruin the heat dissipation capabilities of the heatsink:/ Do you really think that the glass blasting could tear of enough layers for it to be naked metal when it's anodized?


----------



## Blast

I am still having issues with sleep mode wakeup, spontaneous shutdowns, and pre-bios boot looping. It has crashed 3 times since i have started writing this post.

I am running bios 9h.

2700k
UD5h
Ripjaws X 2133 CL11
4870 X2


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOCA*
> 
> I have considered the paint option, but i'm worried that it will ruin the heat dissipation capabilities of the heatsink:/ Do you really think that the glass blasting could tear of enough layers for it to be naked metal when it's anodized?


Anodizing is not that thick.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I am still having issues with sleep mode wakeup, spontaneous shutdowns, and pre-bios boot looping. It has crashed 3 times since i have started writing this post.
> I am running bios 9h.
> 2700k
> UD5h
> Ripjaws X 2133 CL11
> 4870 X2


Sounds like to me your gonna be putting it in a brown box soon.
Set it up with minimal peripherals and call Gigabyte tech support. (626) 854-9338.
Most of the time they hear you out and then ask you to test your RAM and call back but you can tell them you have done that.
I normally call in the AM and get minimal hold time.
The people I spoke with do not sound like noobs quoting from books. Give it a try.

They do not acknowledge forums or any BIOS versions other than what is on their site so I would have a F8 BIOS on there unless they have bumped it up.

I may have mine back Mon or Tues.


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Sounds like to me your gonna be putting it in a brown box soon.
> Set it up with minimal peripherals and call Gigabyte tech support. (626) 854-9338.
> Most of the time they hear you out and then ask you to test your RAM and call back but you can tell them you have done that.
> I normally call in the AM and get minimal hold time.
> The people I spoke with do not sound like noobs quoting from books. Give it a try.
> They do not acknowledge forums or any BIOS versions other than what is on their site so I would have a F8 BIOS on there unless they have bumped it up.
> I may have mine back Mon or Tues.


Yeah, not looking forward to a brown box $$$.

The computer will turn on sometimes and display AE or A0 (meaning the system is working). I am lead to believe that this has something to do with video output. When this happens, I can wait for windows to boot (watch the HDD light), enter a hotkey for shutdown....and it shuts down [even with no video].

My GPU works just fine, so why is it not getting along with this board?

Update: I rolled back to F8 and, miraculously, sleep mode works. I haven't had a spontaneous shutdown in hours (even on F9h). Boot looping still happens though.


----------



## Viviox

Does anyone have a 3TB external hard drive USB 3.0 and Gigabyte Z77x - Ud3H motherboard? Does the board recognize your external HDD on boot up or start up log in?

I have problem with getting my board to recognized my Seagate 3TB external HDD that use USB 3.0. I've installed all the drivers relating to USB 3.0 in Gigabyte disc, but i can't get it to work. I have to manually unplug the drive and plug it back in for it to recognized (after start up log in). It getting quite annoying that I have to do this every time I turn on my computer.

Anyone have a solution to this? Thanks in Advance.


----------



## NOCA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Anodizing is not that thick.


Ok, thanks alot for the help


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My board ships tomorrow! Anyone know what service they use? Ground? 3 Day?


They sent mine back UPS 3 day. They will give you a tracking number if you ask once they notify you it's on the way.

BTW I'm about to get my other UD5H fired up again (I've been running the repaired one). I finally got my w/c loop set up in the Switch, but the D5 pump I bought is fail. Waiting to hear from Sidewinders if they will do something about the pump.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> Yeah, not looking forward to a brown box $$$.
> The computer will turn on sometimes and display AE or A0 (meaning the system is working). I am lead to believe that this has something to do with video output. When this happens, I can wait for windows to boot (watch the HDD light), enter a hotkey for shutdown....and it shuts down [even with no video].
> My GPU works just fine, so why is it not getting along with this board?
> Update: I rolled back to F8 and, miraculously, sleep mode works. I haven't had a spontaneous shutdown in hours (even on F9h). Boot looping still happens though.


So what is our next move?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viviox*
> 
> Does anyone have a 3TB external hard drive USB 3.0 and Gigabyte Z77x - Ud3H motherboard? Does the board recognize your external HDD on boot up or start up log in?
> I have problem with getting my board to recognized my Seagate 3TB external HDD that use USB 3.0. I've installed all the drivers relating to USB 3.0 in Gigabyte disc, but i can't get it to work. I have to manually unplug the drive and plug it back in for it to recognized (after start up log in). It getting quite annoying that I have to do this every time I turn on my computer.
> Anyone have a solution to this? Thanks in Advance.


i have a WD 1tb external, working fine from boot or windows, actually very annoyed since the mobo will always boot my external when plugged, if i change that in bios, will do it again next time the disk is plugged

try another usb port, and be sure to have latest drivers via and intel


----------



## TechieGeek2012

Well I updated everything last night - I am now running BIOS F8 (I was running F4). Updated the USB, LAN, SATA, and Chipset drivers... and the system is now rock solid. I venture to say the temperatures even seem a little lower by a few degrees.

No disconnects, no more power surge error messages. Good to go!


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viviox*
> 
> Does anyone have a 3TB external hard drive USB 3.0 and Gigabyte Z77x - Ud3H motherboard? Does the board recognize your external HDD on boot up or start up log in?
> I have problem with getting my board to recognized my Seagate 3TB external HDD that use USB 3.0. I've installed all the drivers relating to USB 3.0 in Gigabyte disc, but i can't get it to work. I have to manually unplug the drive and plug it back in for it to recognized (after start up log in). It getting quite annoying that I have to do this every time I turn on my computer.
> Anyone have a solution to this? Thanks in Advance.


Don't use the drivers from the disc as they are outdated. go to either Tweaktown site:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html

or better yet to Intel and download the latest usb 3 driver.


----------



## sixor

updated drivers on ud3h website from 7 july


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechieGeek2012*
> 
> Well I updated everything last night - I am now running BIOS F8 (I was running F4). Updated the USB, LAN, SATA, and Chipset drivers... and the system is now rock solid. I venture to say the temperatures even seem a little lower by a few degrees.
> No disconnects, no more power surge error messages. Good to go!


Fantastic!

My board will be back on Tues according to the tracking number. I am curious as to the BIOS it comes with. Most likely F8, we will see.


----------



## Sin0822

i bet F7.


----------



## samwiches

My UD3H is shutting down randomly. Sometimes it begins to power back up for about 1/10th of a second but mostly will not turn back on, and if it does it will shut down again within a couple of hours.

The onboard power button flashes. It looks like a diagnostic reading but I don't see any info on that. Sometimes it's a long blink, sometimes it's a long blink alternating with a short blink---what is it telling me?


----------



## Sin0822

what BIOS are you using?


----------



## Zoltanar

Hi
The red/orange M_BIOS LED light has been annoying me recently and I was wondering if it's ok to
put some blu-tack or tape over it, I feel like yes is the obvious answer but you never know!
I just feel like it doesn't fit in with the blue theme.


----------



## barkeater

a little black nail polish should do it


----------



## Sin0822

just use some electric or gorilla tape. That way you don't have to wait for the nailpolish to dry haha.


----------



## Zoltanar

Alright, thanks for your replies


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I am still having issues with sleep mode wakeup, spontaneous shutdowns, and pre-bios boot looping. It has crashed 3 times since i have started writing this post.
> I am running bios 9h.
> 2700k
> UD5h
> Ripjaws X 2133 CL11
> 4870 X2
> 
> 
> 
> So what is our next move?
Click to expand...

I've got no idea. I'm hoping that somebody on here may have some words of wisdom - perhaps a similar problem? I'd really like to know if it is a faulty board or just a bug that will be fixed in an upcoming bios.


----------



## samwiches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> what BIOS are you using?


F8 plus the original factory version (not sure) on the backup. The behavior is the same for each.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I got the computer somewhat working. I think there was a short or something somewhere o.o?
> I removed the board, fired it up away from metal, worked fine-ish.
> Back in the case, fires up.
> But the board still gives me issues. Most of the time it will hang at b2, AE, or A0 (when it hangs, I receive no video feed). On the rare occasion I receive a video signal, I go into the bios. After I am in the bios for a few minutes the computer will spontaneously lose video and my videocard fan will start throttling. *(This is NOT a video card issue.)*
> In the event that I can't get to bios and the system doesn't hang, it will continuously go through the startup sequence on the debugger. It will get to about 72, briefly 9x (x being something I cannot see due to the shortness of it being there) and then it will start back from 15. Fans throttle during this process.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I've got no idea. I'm hoping that somebody on here may have some words of wisdom - perhaps a similar problem? I'd really like to know if it is a faulty board or just a bug that will be fixed in an upcoming bios.


Bold added by me.

Thank you for filling in your system specs.

I assume this is the model of your ram: Model F3-17000CL11D-8GBXL. If so, and you have tested each one at a time in the slot furthest from the cpu and found no issues I guess you can rule that out. Make sure you are running it on stock or Profile 1 (no OC).

How do you know it is not a video card issue? Just the same, you may want to try running a single card and see how it behaves.


----------



## Sin0822

i think that Blast should RMA his board, the short might have slightly damaged something on the board.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> F8 plus the original factory version (not sure) on the backup. The behavior is the same for each.


you are OCing right? can you try to increase the PWM settings, all except switching frequency?


----------



## fortizvi

Hello, everyone.

My machine:
GA-Z77-D3H (he has three weeks)
Intel i5 3450 (he has three weeks)
KHX1600C9D3/4G Kingston (2 x 4GB in dual channel) (he has three weeks)
Gigabyte GTX460 OC 1024 MB.
1TB Seagate HDD, 2 x 500GB and 160GB SATA-II.
Soundblaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatality PCI.
Thermaltake 675W ToughtPower XT.

I have seen many colleagues have the same problem *of freezing the OS Windows 7 x64.* As I saw you mentioned, I have put the value at 100.10 BCLK.
*I wonder if choikugi and other partners* already over 1 month since I have had some say no more freezing since they made that change and also whether any parameters have changed more, or j*ust set the BCLK to 100.10*?, Hopefully that is because they have already solved the same problem I have.

Thanks and I'm waiting for you.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fortizvi*
> 
> Hello, everyone.
> My machine:
> GA-Z77-D3H (he has three weeks)
> Intel i5 3450 (he has three weeks)
> KHX1600C9D3/4G Kingston (2 x 4GB in dual channel) (he has three weeks)
> Gigabyte GTX460 OC 1024 MB.
> 1TB Seagate HDD, 2 x 500GB and 160GB SATA-II.
> Soundblaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatality PCI.
> Thermaltake 675W ToughtPower XT.
> I have seen many colleagues have the same problem *of freezing the OS Windows 7 x64.* As I saw you mentioned, I have put the value at 100.10 BCLK.
> *I wonder if choikugi and other partners* already over 1 month since I have had some say no more freezing since they made that change and also whether any parameters have changed more, or j*ust set the BCLK to 100.10*?, Hopefully that is because they have already solved the same problem I have.
> Thanks and I'm waiting for you.


I am sorry so a new BIOs fixed the freezing and you want to know if the BIOS guys changed something other than setting the BCLK to 100.1?

if your issue isn't fixed, remove the PCi sound card and tell me if that fixes your friend's issue.


----------



## fortizvi

Hello,
Sorry, I forgot to mention that upgrade to version F14. And using the default values the system froze. That's why I carry a day with the value set at 100.10 and seems no longer freezes. I love using the system to "suspend" in order to never have to turn the OS, and I understand that this should work, as my old motherboard was another perfectly. That is why, in my case I do not OC, I just want to work with my computer normally, without OC or anything. So I wonder if solving the problem of freezing, but I set to 100.10.
Thank you and to your waiting


----------



## fortizvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I am sorry so a new BIOs fixed the freezing and you want to know if the BIOS guys changed something other than setting the BCLK to 100.1?
> if your issue isn't fixed, remove the PCi sound card and tell me if that fixes your friend's issue.


Yes
I wonder if a parameter has changed more to eliminate the freezing of the OS.
Thank you and to your hopes.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fortizvi*
> 
> Yes
> I wonder if a parameter has changed more to eliminate the freezing of the OS.
> Thank you and to your hopes.


+1 for taking out the PCI sound card. It fixed my freezing issues!

Let us know how it goes fortizvi


----------



## 2therock

Maybe going into device manager and disabling the on-board sound would allow a PCI card not to cause trouble? Just sayin.


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Bold added by me.
> Thank you for filling in your system specs.
> I assume this is the model of your ram: Model F3-17000CL11D-8GBXL. If so, and you have tested each one at a time in the slot furthest from the cpu and found no issues I guess you can rule that out. Make sure you are running it on stock or Profile 1 (no OC).
> How do you know it is not a video card issue? Just the same, you may want to try running a single card and see how it behaves.


I have tested each stick one at a time - issue remains. I am on profile 1.

I know it isn't a video card issue because the card works just fine in a different rig. I can't simply run a single card, lmao. It is one of those lovely dual-gpu cards (I can disable one processor while in windows, but not in the bios).

Sin - Yeah...I'm feeling that. I don't like the idea of waiting for a new board, but I do have another computer to use while I wait.


----------



## -Ste-

F10A is out for the UD5H

it adds internal cpu ppl overvoltage enabled/auto/disabled option under cpu features which was added in f9d but removed in f9e f9f f9h f9i

/happy days are here again


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Ste-*
> 
> F10A is out for the UD5H
> it adds internal cpu ppl overvoltage enabled/auto/disabled option under cpu features which was added in f9d but removed in f9e f9f f9h f9i
> /happy days are here again


Thanks +1 i didn't knew there was no PLL Overvoltage in "f9e f9f f9h f9i"
time to flash my other bios chip and keeping F9d (love it) for now on other chip


----------



## r0ach

I still have the random freezing once every few days with UD5H on F9i BIOS, and yes I have a PCI sound card. When are they going to fix this issue...

I noticed there's no PCI latency timer setting in BIOS, is it hidden and set lower than 64 to cause this, or is it something else?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i think that Blast should RMA his board, the short might have slightly damaged something on the board.


I know, but I always try and give as much troubleshooting advice before rma as that process can take a couple weeks. But I am starting to think that may be best in his case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I have tested each stick one at a time - issue remains. I am on profile 1.
> I know it isn't a video card issue because the card works just fine in a different rig. I can't simply run a single card, lmao. It is one of those lovely dual-gpu cards (I can disable one processor while in windows, but not in the bios).
> Sin - Yeah...I'm feeling that. I don't like the idea of waiting for a new board, but I do have another computer to use while I wait.


OK, regarding memory. I know you said you test each stick individually in the furthest slot from the cpu and no issues. As a last test on memory, you should test each stick one at a time with Memtest to make sure that each stick is error free.

Understand regarding the dual gpu's on one card. Is it possible to test another card (non-dual gpu) in the UD5?

Or just rma the freaking board as Sin suggested. Sorry your having so much trouble with your new system.


----------



## s4e8

yes, it revert to F9d feaures, with vt-x default on, and 6M less memory overhead than F9d, but 4M more overhead than F9h.


----------



## coolhandluke41

New F10A bios came with little surprise......











i assume i have to reinstall USB 3.0 drivers and Intel Management software with this BIOSes right ?


----------



## Sin0822

just disable it lol.

Roach- have you tried disabling the on-board audio like was suggested?


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> just disable it lol.
> Roach- have you tried disabling the on-board audio like was suggested?


Do you mean disable the x-fi and use onboard audio?

My freezing issues happened when onboard was turned off and the drivers for onboard was not installed


----------



## Sin0822

yea i think perhaps then the card is causing it, can you try with onboard and without add-in even in the slot?


----------



## cab2

I'm confused about "Internal Graphics Memory Size" and "DVMT Total Memory Size" default "MAX". How much memory does the hd4000 have? Will it work on just that? How much system memory can you give it, and does it really make a difference?


----------



## coolhandluke41

you can manually give it like 1028 and yes you can OC your iGPU also and give some voltage i was running 1500 clock the other day np

EDIT ; "...does it really make a difference?.."....yes it does


----------



## Blast

I just got the RMA request sent in (probably will ship later early next week).

Just out of curiosity, using a 3gbps cable on a 3gbps port [boot drive] wouldn't be causing my issues, would it?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I just got the RMA request sent in (probably will ship later early next week).
> 
> Just out of curiosity, using a 3gbps cable on a 3gbps port [boot drive] wouldn't be causing my issues, would it?


You mean SATA cables? SATA II (3 gbps) and SATA III (6 gbps) are the same cables except for the changed standard of clips to keep the cable secured. You're not going to hinder anything if you use a SATA II or SATA III cable.


----------



## TechieGeek2012

One thing I did notice after all the updates - Windows demanded that I reactivate my copy... I had to call the hotline.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I just got the RMA request sent in (probably will ship later early next week).
> Just out of curiosity, using a 3gbps cable on a 3gbps port [boot drive] wouldn't be causing my issues, would it?


Better get it on the truck ASAP. Mine is on the way back making it a 17 day turn around. Don't forget to install the CPU blank.


----------



## fortizvi

Hi all:

I'm the guy in the GA-Z77-D3h. I have 2 days with no freeze since I put the BCLK to 100.10 and VCore to 1.1 v. Actually, I'm super happy now because I have no problems. Comment that has nothing to do PCI sound card, since the problem is this motherboard, in which BCLK is stable if it is set to "auto" and the same motherboard is leaving bajánadolo uploading and frozen (at my knowledge) source components operating at 100 MHz as in the PCI and PCI-ex. Do you think?

Greetings and thanks.


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Better get it on the truck ASAP. Mine is on the way back making it a 17 day turn around. Don't forget to install the CPU blank.


Good LORD! Are you going through newegg or gigabyte?


----------



## mandrix

Huh. Was looking at some posts on TT about installing Corsair Force GT SSD and having it default to GPT. I realized mine did the same thing when I installed it, never got around to changing it, actually forgot about it. Anyone else had this behaviour? I know what the fix is is, just don't want to reinstall Windows right now. Just curious how many had the BIOS default to GPT with an SSD? I think that was back on the original F4 BIOS.

Getting ready to fire up my 2nd UD5H again in my new build pretty soon, I think I'm going RAID with my 2 Samsung 830 SSD's. Anyone had any problems with RAID and SSD's? After all these years I have never set up RAID on one of my machines, though I did it on a work pc years and years ago that was running a Paradox database (pita).

@Blast, he went through Gigabyte. I did the same thing with one of my boards, it has had bent cpu pins. It was about a 11 day turnaround for me AFTER they got the board and back to my door on the E coast.


----------



## FoamyV

Hey there, i'm interested in buying the Gigabyte z77x ud3h and this place seems to be the best to ask some questions.

After reading some of the latest replies it seems most of the people have problems with the bios, is it really that bothersome; are there any other problems i should be aware of before buying?

Secondly how is the VIA VT2021 codec compared to the Realtek we're all used to? I have never heard a VIA VT2021 codec so i'd be grateful if you could pitch in with an opinion. Hope i finally decide on what to buy, thanks and have a nice weekend.


----------



## pushaz

Hello all,been following this great thread and finally decided to join
And straight to the problem..
I have ZZ77-UD5 and 2600K (full specs should be visible below)
Now,all my problems started with another board,so not sure its UD5 problem,but maybe i can find fault
Before i had Asus P8P67 Pro,have some problems with it and after 3 RMA's decided to sell it and went for GB UD5
Before that,i cleaned my pc from dust (like every few months) and after putting back all parts pc didnt started (Asus mobo)
After looking for error code it showed me that this is memory,so i did typical procedures - one ram stick testing with mem test,all ram OK and passed test.
Then after few rebuilds i find,that if i put all 4 sticks ram,pc wont boot,and finally i find,that one ram slot not working,i tried all configurations..I thought it was mobo problem and ordered UD5
After rebuilding my pc with UD5 same happen again,only now it was different memory slot..Then i started thinking maybe its my cpu memory controller went bust?
Atm i have 2x4Gb in dual channel,not 4x4Gb..
Tried all bioses,atm im using F10a (which is great BTW)
Any suggestions would be extremely appreciated
If you need me to do some rebuilding or some kinda configuration changes - just tell me what to do
Thanks in advance


----------



## mandrix

If the problem is following the cpu it may well be the cpu. Other things could maybe be bent cpu socket pin, dust or something in the ram slots. Have you tried each stick of ram at a time individually to see if there's a problem with just one? Have you verified that it's always the same ram slot that fails with any stick of ram?I would try one stick at a time but if all test good then inspect the ram slot that always fails. It might work back to the cpu but just may be a unlucky coincidence.


----------



## sixor

about ud3h having lan problems with my internet, connection keeps dropping and is very hard to recover, the modem is ok, i just tested on another pc and works perfect the lan cable and modem, so i know it is gibayte mobo fault (again), and yes using latest driver


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> If the problem is following the cpu it may well be the cpu. Other things could maybe be bent cpu socket pin, dust or something in the ram slots. Have you tried each stick of ram at a time individually to see if there's a problem with just one? Have you verified that it's always the same ram slot that fails with any stick of ram?I would try one stick at a time but if all test good then inspect the ram slot that always fails. It might work back to the cpu but just may be a unlucky coincidence.


as i write already - yes,i did that
thing is,its the same problem with both Asus and Gigabyte boards,just different slots on each
not much chance i guess that 2 mobos fail?
will do last rebuild and try adding every part and start,will see how that goes
ram is OK, tested in working slots on both boards
cpu pin bent on 2 boards - doubt,dust - doubt..
cant wait what Sin suggests


----------



## Mr Frosty

Guys how does the UD5H fair under sub-zero? I'm putting mine in this on Monday/Tuesday..


----------



## FoamyV

Hmm, so gigabyte seems to have blundered this series of cards, i see a lot of people complaining about almost everything in these motherboards, should i delay the purchase until a better update is delivered? Can someone please answer ?


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hmm, so gigabyte seems to have blundered this series of cards, i see a lot of people complaining about almost everything in these motherboards, should i delay the purchase until a better update is delivered? Can someone please answer ?


i doubt there are lot of complains,most of them is user related,and considering those boards (UD5 especially) have lots of bios tweaks,not every user know what he is doing
other than that,its cracking boards and i personally now will buy GB boards (i was Asus man for many years)
i just miss on some features in Asus mobos for some price range,and GB giving me much more for that,also board build quality iz amazing
all problems can be solved releasing bios updates,thats what GB doing,last Asus bios for my old P8P67 was probably 6 months ago
F10a is very good bios,at least for me
if you delay,you can also delay until lets say some Z87 release or Z98 or something








just get UD3 or UD5 and be happy


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> i doubt there are lot of complains,most of them is user related,and considering those boards (UD5 especially) have lots of bios tweaks,not every user know what he is doing
> other than that,its cracking boards and i personally now will buy GB boards (i was Asus man for many years)
> i just miss on some features in Asus mobos for some price range,and GB giving me much more for that,also board build quality iz amazing
> all problems can be solved releasing bios updates,thats what GB doing,last Asus bios for my old P8P67 was probably 6 months ago
> F10a is very good bios,at least for me
> if you delay,you can also delay until lets say some Z87 release or Z98 or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just get UD3 or UD5 and be happy


Thanks for the reply, i just got scared at all the problems in the last few pages, i'm a wuss







I'll get the ud3 since you're probably right. As a side note, is the onbord sound worse than what realtek has to offer? never had a via board. If you could answer that i'd be gratefull. THanks again.


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, i just got scared at all the problems in the last few pages, i'm a wuss
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll get the ud3 since you're probably right. As a side note, is the onbord sound worse than what realtek has to offer? never had a via board. If you could answer that i'd be gratefull. THanks again.


i cant talk about UD3,since i have UD5 - sound on UD5 is really good,but i still prefer add on sound card (i have good ears lol)
so probably owners of UD3 can give you some feedback about sound on UD3
i dont think you should worry about board itself - GB as it seems really working hard on bios'es,sometimes i see 2 bios updates per week,which is nice to see that they care of they customers
worst what can happen is that you get board DOA - then again you only miss few days for replacing,but there is very slim chance
in all my pc experience during 22 years i received bad parts only 3 times (ram,video card,hard drive),none of it was motherboard,and then again all those DOA parts can be just because of transporting,as some delivery companies dont care to much about parcels (i worked for DHL,so i know how it works hehe)
just pull the trigger and get UD3,you will be pleased with it
there are same problems with other brands as well - Asus,MSI,ASrock - we just talking here about GB boards,there a lot of forums about other boards as well,so they all equal in that case

My problem i guess is not even UD5 but cpu,as i had same problem with Asus P8P67 Pro..cant run 16gb ram,only 8Gb








Will wait what Sin gonna say,maybe there is still slim chance to find what causing this problem,as im really happy with 2600K


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Guys how does the UD5H fair under sub-zero? I'm putting mine in this on Monday/Tuesday..


I know me and a few guys do LN2 with the UD5H all the time, we have been doing it since before release to make sure it works well. You can try like 5.5ghz perhaps with a SS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> i cant talk about UD3,since i have UD5 - sound on UD5 is really good,but i still prefer add on sound card (i have good ears lol)
> so probably owners of UD3 can give you some feedback about sound on UD3
> i dont think you should worry about board itself - GB as it seems really working hard on bios'es,sometimes i see 2 bios updates per week,which is nice to see that they care of they customers
> worst what can happen is that you get board DOA - then again you only miss few days for replacing,but there is very slim chance
> in all my pc experience during 22 years i received bad parts only 3 times (ram,video card,hard drive),none of it was motherboard,and then again all those DOA parts can be just because of transporting,as some delivery companies dont care to much about parcels (i worked for DHL,so i know how it works hehe)
> just pull the trigger and get UD3,you will be pleased with it
> there are same problems with other brands as well - Asus,MSI,ASrock - we just talking here about GB boards,there a lot of forums about other boards as well,so they all equal in that case
> My problem i guess is not even UD5 but cpu,as i had same problem with Asus P8P67 Pro..cant run 16gb ram,only 8Gb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will wait what Sin gonna say,maybe there is still slim chance to find what causing this problem,as im really happy with 2600K


what is your issue?


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> what is your issue?


Hye Sin,furthest slot of ram from cpu not working,so only using 2x4Gb,if i put even 1 working stick in that furthest slot,it gives me code 51 (memory initialization error)
I explained whats happened on page 264,if you have time to read that in my poor english









Red - slot not working,Green - currently my ram in those slots
All 3 slots working except that marked in Red


----------



## MarkMcPain

Hi Everyone,

I have two small UD5h issues. I feel lucky after reading some of the stories in this thread. Trying to search this thread for help is a disaster.

MB: UD5h - F5 firmware
CPU: 3750k
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 4x4gb - 1600mhz 1.5v
PSU: Seasonic 760

1) 1600mhz ram is showing up as 1333mhz. If I turn on XMP "profile 1" to get 1600mhz the computer refuses to boot asks me to go back to bios. Ram is working fine, shows as 16gb and 1.5v.

2) During a cold boot or restart the computer will reset itself in the middle and boot again.

I'm hesitant to update the bios to the popular F6 without asking here first.

Thanks


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarkMcPain*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> I have two small UD5h issues. I feel lucky after reading some of the stories in this thread. Trying to search this thread for help is a disaster.
> MB: UD5h - F5 firmware
> CPU: 3750k
> RAM: Corsair Vengeance 4x4gb - 1600mhz 1.5v
> PSU: Seasonic 760
> 1) 1600mhz ram is showing up as 1333mhz. If I turn on XMP "profile 1" to get 1600mhz the computer refuses to boot asks me to go back to bios. Ram is working fine, shows as 16gb and 1.5v.
> 2) During a cold boot or restart the computer will reset itself in the middle and boot again.
> I'm hesitant to update the bios to the popular F6 without asking here first.
> Thanks


Hey,i can talk only from my experience - update bios to the latest without any hesitation,i started using this board with F4 and so far for me best bioses were F8 (official) and now F10a
And i am using 2600K and ram working at 1600 if i can believe what cpuz says


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hmm, so gigabyte seems to have blundered this series of cards, i see a lot of people complaining about almost everything in these motherboards, should i delay the purchase until a better update is delivered? Can someone please answer ?


Honestly, people come on here for help and to be heard/complain. A lot of times, imho, it's user error/inexperience. Every brand of mobo that has a thread on OCN will show the close to the same/similar complaints and also compliments. Just know, you are not getting an accurate idea of how hardware preforms by reading these threads. It's broad at best.

I bought a UD5H the day it came out. I'm 29 and I've been building comps all my life. Literally since the 386 days. And I can say this is the best board I've had to date, period. Don't be scared to buy a good product because some have problems, whether it's an Asus or Gigabyte. Every massed produced product deals with the same issues, as they can't control what happens once it leaves their hands, and sometimes defective units are shipped. Nothing is perfect, but this board is damn good. If a product had to be perfect and problem free for us to own it, we would own nothing.


----------



## steve210

Beside I like my f11 bios with my gigabyte z77x ud3h it runs perfect no problems at All I think i' ll stick with bios for now?cheers ?


----------



## MarkMcPain

Definitely the best motherboard for the enthusiast/geek in my opinion.

I was hesitant at first to purchase the motherboard because of the quantity of posts relating to it.

But after reading the posts you quickly realize the problems are either addressed in bios updates, specific to certain hardware combinations or are minor.

You can obviously save yourself some grief by staying away from component combinations that are giving people trouble.

I think it's easy to blow issues out of proportion when reading these forums.

All motherboards have issues.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> i doubt there are lot of complains,most of them is user related


Well I admit that it's somewhat subjective and anedoctical (like "it always rains when I forget the umbrella!"), but I too am under the impression that Gigabyte is struggling with their bios (talking about UD5). Lots of updates in so few days make me think that either the board was released prematurely or there could be a hardware issue that Gigabyte is trying to patch by tweaking the bios in a way to lessen its impact on most users. I mean, a manufacturer that releases updates is good, a manufacturer that releases updates every other day, though way better than one who does not care about its customers, is struggling with an immature product, IMBO.

I was wondering if the lack of capacitors under the cpu slot, unique of Gigabyte's design, could have something to do with the freezing problems so "many" seem to experience. What would happen in any other board that has such caps if they were to be taken away?

I want to stress that I am not implying that the UD5 is a badly engineered board. I have no idea what those capacitors are for, nor if they are needed on boards with other chipsets. But I' pretty sure somebody on this forum does and perhaps she/he will care to reassure potential buyers like me (I am running a GB board since 2002 and it never let me down - I love their quality).

I don't know, maybe these are the risks of buying a product in Intel's tick phase. Besides I had a look at the 'errata' for the Ivy Bridge processor and got scared of how many bugs are there.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> Hello all,been following this great thread and finally decided to join
> And straight to the problem..
> I have ZZ77-UD5 and 2600K (full specs should be visible below)
> Now,all my problems started with another board,so not sure its UD5 problem,but maybe i can find fault
> Before i had Asus P8P67 Pro,have some problems with it and after 3 RMA's decided to sell it and went for GB UD5
> Before that,i cleaned my pc from dust (like every few months) and after putting back all parts pc didnt started (Asus mobo)
> After looking for error code it showed me that this is memory,so i did typical procedures - one ram stick testing with mem test,all ram OK and passed test.
> Then after few rebuilds i find,that if i put all 4 sticks ram,pc wont boot,and finally i find,that one ram slot not working,i tried all configurations..I thought it was mobo problem and ordered UD5
> After rebuilding my pc with UD5 same happen again,only now it was different memory slot..Then i started thinking maybe its my cpu memory controller went bust?
> Atm i have 2x4Gb in dual channel,not 4x4Gb..
> Tried all bioses,atm im using F10a (which is great BTW)
> Any suggestions would be extremely appreciated
> If you need me to do some rebuilding or some kinda configuration changes - just tell me what to do
> Thanks in advance


Sounds like a bad cpu as you had already indicated. Only one way to find out. Swap in another cpu and test. If it still fails, you can always ship cpu back.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hmm, so gigabyte seems to have blundered this series of cards, i see a lot of people complaining about almost everything in these motherboards, should i delay the purchase until a better update is delivered? Can someone please answer ?


You are misinformed but believe what you want.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarkMcPain*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> I have two small UD5h issues. I feel lucky after reading some of the stories in this thread. Trying to search this thread for help is a disaster.
> MB: UD5h - F5 firmware
> CPU: 3750k
> RAM: Corsair Vengeance 4x4gb - 1600mhz 1.5v
> PSU: Seasonic 760
> 1) 1600mhz ram is showing up as 1333mhz. If I turn on XMP "profile 1" to get 1600mhz the computer refuses to boot asks me to go back to bios. Ram is working fine, shows as 16gb and 1.5v.
> 2) During a cold boot or restart the computer will reset itself in the middle and boot again.
> I'm hesitant to update the bios to the popular F6 without asking here first.
> Thanks


F5! Update your firmware either to the latest official firmware or jump on the latest beta.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> Well I admit that it's somewhat subjective and anedoctical (like "it always rains when I forget the umbrella!"), but I too am under the impression that Gigabyte is struggling with their bios (talking about UD5). Lots of updates in so few days make me think that either the board was released prematurely or there could be a hardware issue that Gigabyte is trying to patch by tweaking the bios in a way to lessen its impact on most users. I mean, a manufacturer that releases updates is good, a manufacturer that releases updates every other day, though way better than one who does not care about its customers, is struggling with an immature product, IMBO.
> I was wondering if the lack of capacitors under the cpu slot, unique of Gigabyte's design, could have something to do with the freezing problems so "many" seem to experience. What would happen in any other board that has such caps if they were to be taken away?
> I want to stress that I am not implying that the UD5 is a badly engineered board. I have no idea what those capacitors are for, nor if they are needed on boards with other chipsets. But I' pretty sure somebody on this forum does and perhaps she/he will care to reassure potential buyers like me (I am running a GB board since 2002 and it never let me down - I love their quality).
> I don't know, maybe these are the risks of buying a product in Intel's tick phase. Besides I had a look at the 'errata' for the Ivy Bridge processor and got scared of how many bugs are there.


This has already been addressed in this thread. Take 2 min and do a search and you will find the discussion. Final conclusion was just mudslinging by competitors. But you probably already knew that.


----------



## Ali Man

Give to give a heads up, F10a is a total fail bios.

I can boot at 4.5Ghz at the same settings with bios F9e and all the previous ones but i can't with this one. As soon as I reverted back to F9e, it booted up at the exact same settings.


----------



## MarkMcPain

Welp, upgraded the bios from f5 to f8 and now X.M.P profiles work.

No issues here pretty painless now time to overclock.


----------



## Sin0822

listen guys BETA BIOSes aren't meant for everyone, they are just test BIOSes tossed out there for users to try and test out. many of them implement odd little tweaks and such sometimes to test problems and other things. Ali Man with F10A, please enable Cpu PLl over-voltage. F9E doesn't have this option i don't think.


----------



## Ali Man

The CPU PLL Overvolt option came in the F9D and also the F9e, I'm running F9e as we speak and hence I compared it to F10a.

Ever since I upgraded from bios F7 (which I shouldn't have), problems have started arising and now even if I revert back to F7, the problem is still there.
If I restart my PC, it would actually shutdown and then turn on after a few seconds and boot into windows. Now if I wanted to Shutdown my PC, I would press the dam shutdown button and not restart. And guess what? this also happens when I turn it to sleep. So I click the sleep button from windows, it goes into sleep, then turns on and then goes off. And this happens every freakin single time and I'm like ***?

Now after going through all bioses, the beta ones and the ones on the website, nothing seems to work. This is surely giga's fault, I wish I never got this board in the first place. I was sold upon it's specs, but personal experience speaks otherwise.


----------



## protzman

didnt know this was a club







im in if it matters! no ones keeping track


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> You are misinformed but believe what you want.


I surely am misinformed but the last pages of the thread doesn't seem to do justice to what these gigabyte boards really are or people say they are. I mean most of the reviews put it high up there among the best at this price point but if you take a look here, there are a lot of complaints coming with every new version of the bios, it kind of worries me. My question is, am i set with this board ( ud3h) for overclocking a 3770 to 4.6 or should i look somewhere else?

The purchase is planned for Monday so please if you could expand a little i'd be grateful.


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> The CPU PLL Overvolt option came in the F9D and also the F9e, I'm running F9e as we speak and hence I compared it to F10a.
> Ever since I upgraded from bios F7 (which I shouldn't have), problems have started arising and now even if I revert back to F7, the problem is still there.
> If I restart my PC, it would actually shutdown and then turn on after a few seconds and boot into windows. Now if I wanted to Shutdown my PC, I would press the dam shutdown button and not restart. And guess what? this also happens when I turn it to sleep. So I click the sleep button from windows, it goes into sleep, then turns on and then goes off. And this happens every freakin single time and I'm like ***?
> Now after going through all bioses, the beta ones and the ones on the website, nothing seems to work. This is surely giga's fault, I wish I never got this board in the first place. I was sold upon it's specs, but personal experience speaks otherwise.


i find F10a very good bios,much better than any F9
from your post,it sounds like it was user related problems rather than board or bios,or maybe faulty board
and i just love such things like "i wish i never got board in first place" - if you think other manufacturers have less problems,you are very mistaken,im working for one of the biggest EU retailers and most problems is user related,this applies also to Asus,MSI,ASRock - any
keep in mind,that this is 2012,not 2008,where only few manufacturers making memory,video cards,etc etc,and after every release every board (including video,sound - all) needs time to find problems,this is just impossible to do in factory,otherwise we will be waiting new parts appear in market only every 5 years
not happy with board - RMA it,and if after you still be unhappy - back it to your retailer and chose another


----------



## fortizvi

Hi all:

I confirm that the *solution to freeze the system in MB GA-Z77 D3H* is:
1. *optimized BIOS values* .
2. *BCKL to 100.10 MHz*
3. *VCore --> 1.1 v* in i5 3450 (imagine that this voltage is valid for all i5 and 7 right?)

I have 3 days without freezing, suspending the machine for hours, activating it from the suspension, leaving it unattended for hours and playing and giving power to the Max Payne 3.

Other partners involved, that this is going?

I am your wait!


----------



## mandrix

I haven't been getting any love from any of the recent beta BIOS, and always return to F8 final. I'm starting to think more and more it involves the crossfire setup with the 6850's, as sooner or later I will see a bluescreen with one of the AMD drivers listed. This just hit me this morning, and I haven't tried disconnecting the crossfire bridge yet. Other than that absolutely no problems so I'm happy with F8.

Anyway I thought I'd ask again if anyone running Samsung 830 SSD's in RAID, any problems, setup, etc. About to fire up my other UD5H pretty soon and I intend to run the 2 128GB 830's in RAID. It's been absolutely years since I've set up RAID, guess I'll need to RTM to get started off. Now where is that thing......


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> I surely am misinformed but the last pages of the thread doesn't seem to do justice to what these gigabyte boards really are or people say they are. I mean most of the reviews put it high up there among the best at this price point but if you take a look here, there are a lot of complaints coming with every new version of the bios, it kind of worries me. My question is, am i set with this board ( ud3h) for overclocking a 3770 to 4.6 or should i look somewhere else?
> The purchase is planned for Monday so please if you could expand a little i'd be grateful.


The only issues I have yet to see resolved with either the UD3 or 5 have been related to some specific pieces of hardware (expansion cards) and some issues with the USB3 ports. A lot or the issues earlier on (compatibility with Sandy cpu's and functionality of sleep mode) have been resolved via bios updates. All this you could find out on your own by reading this thread. The vast majority of issues have been resolved by troubleshooting and a very few have needed to result in rma'ing the board.

However, you are the one who has to convince yourself if this is the right purchase for you. Don't expect others to do your homework for you.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> I surely am misinformed but the last pages of the thread doesn't seem to do justice to what these gigabyte boards really are or people say they are. I mean most of the reviews put it high up there among the best at this price point but if you take a look here, there are a lot of complaints coming with every new version of the bios, it kind of worries me. My question is, am i set with this board ( ud3h) for overclocking a 3770 to 4.6 or should i look somewhere else?
> The purchase is planned for Monday so please if you could expand a little i'd be grateful.
> 
> 
> 
> The only issues I have yet to see resolved with either the UD3 or 5 have been related to some specific pieces of hardware (expansion cards) and some issues with the USB3 ports. A lot or the issues earlier on (compatibility with Sandy cpu's and functionality of sleep mode) have been resolved via bios updates. All this you could find out on your own by reading this thread. The vast majority of issues have been resolved by troubleshooting and a very few have needed to result in rma'ing the board.
> 
> However, you are the one who has to convince yourself if this is the right purchase for you. Don't expect others to do your homework for you.
Click to expand...

USB ports is a common problem just because of the controllers. It's not held exclusively to Gigabyte in that regard.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> The CPU PLL Overvolt option came in the F9D and also the F9e, I'm running F9e as we speak and hence I compared it to F10a.
> Ever since I upgraded from bios F7 (which I shouldn't have), problems have started arising and now even if I revert back to F7, the problem is still there.
> If I restart my PC, it would actually shutdown and then turn on after a few seconds and boot into windows. Now if I wanted to Shutdown my PC, I would press the dam shutdown button and not restart. And guess what? this also happens when I turn it to sleep. So I click the sleep button from windows, it goes into sleep, then turns on and then goes off. And this happens every freakin single time and I'm like ***?
> Now after going through all bioses, the beta ones and the ones on the website, nothing seems to work. This is surely giga's fault, I wish I never got this board in the first place. I was sold upon it's specs, but personal experience speaks otherwise.


IMO dude if F7 gave you 0 problems and flashing to later BIOses did, and then flashing back didn't fix the issue, then the issue isn't motherboard related, unless you physically hurt the board. There are also two F7 BIOSes I believe.

And here is the deal people, if you have no problems then why update your BIOS?

The issues explained here really are all kinds of tiny issues, the freezing ones, from here on out will be caused by PCI devices which are not fully compatible. At least with the M3, UD3H, UD5H, and Sniper 3 if you still have a freezing issue then please remove any device like eSATA drive, let's say you have a game pad or whatever, or a sound card and see if it still persists. if it still persists then download DPC latency checker and check your DPC latency. Then report it, don't report i before hand and just not even tell us what you have in your system. But as far as the CPU and BCLK go, all new BIOSes(F7 and newer) should have BCLK set to 100.1 default







as well as tune a CPU low power state to increase its stability if the CPU is slightly degraded.

A word to the wise watching these forums, asus, asrock, msi, evga all hate GB for their Z77 pricing, thus companies with the resources(there really are only 2 who can afford full time forum trolls) I already caught 1 troll who worked for one of those companies posting in my threads on more than 1 forum, i am not saying that every new member who comes here with 2 posts and 0 rep is a troll, they aren't. They are here so that we can help them as this is the most active thread for these boards on the internet. When i look around i see tons of threads with problems with asus, asrock, and msi z77 boards even on this forum that just get bumped out of the way because no one responds to them. However that also makes this thread a great target.

Here is my rule, if an issue is extremely odd, like you have never heard of it before and you cannot reproduce it, it is either user's error or it needs RMA.
If more than 1 user is reporting the same thing after a BIOS release then there might be something changed that would do that, their aim with BETA isn't to make them worse, however if you haven't noticed since F8 we haven't had one official BIOS. If you are a NOOB(which is basically you would say on newegg reviews that your tech level is the highest score), then you should NOT be touching BETA BIOSes, end of story. BETAs are only for use by those who know how to use them, and don't complain about things they cannot describe. Then find the issue and report it with enough accuracy so someone can take it higher up.

F9E is a decent BIOS, I will test F10A if I have time today.

if your USB hub is doing surge errors, just disable the errors is the best thing I can tell you. The BIOS has very little do with with windows being mad. Windows 7 is just angry it will have the most legacy driver for intel USb 3.0, lol Windows 8 will have a much nicer driver for it on release, a very good driver that hopefully someone will be able to get to work on windows 7.

BTW Ali Man I am extremely confused, You never told me what type of CPU you have, what type of anything other than your motherboard. From your post I cannot actually understand your problem. You are saying the system will shutdown and then restart and then what? or it will start and then shutdown? Are you overclocking? What happens after it shuts down and turns back on? You aren't describing in any detail.

Ahh Ali Man you are the guy who is complaining about not being able to resume from sleep except by pressing the power button?


----------



## MarkMcPain

Waking from Sleep is a common issue with A LOT of people on different motherboards.

Def not a Gigabyte only occurrence.


----------



## Sin0822

i am wondering if he is using a SB CPU, as IB should have 0 problems with this. If he is using SB well nothing has changed from F7 to now unless he isn't OCing. So I am confused.


----------



## MarkMcPain

I've gone through every post in this 267 page thread and I want to say.

THANK YOU SIN082!!

We all appreciate that you didn't just help for the first 10 pages then get bitter and start calling everyone noobs.


----------



## Siezureboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> A word to the wise watching these forums, asus, asrock, msi, evga all hate GB for their Z77 pricing,...


Asrock? I find that hard to believe since everyone seems to be praising their motherboards and their pricing as if it were the second coming of Christ himself.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> i find F10a very good bios,much better than any F9
> from your post,it sounds like it was user related problems rather than board or bios,or maybe faulty board
> and i just love such things like "i wish i never got board in first place" - if you think other manufacturers have less problems,you are very mistaken,im working for one of the biggest EU retailers and most problems is user related,this applies also to Asus,MSI,ASRock - any
> keep in mind,that this is 2012,not 2008,where only few manufacturers making memory,video cards,etc etc,and after every release every board (including video,sound - all) needs time to find problems,this is just impossible to do in factory,otherwise we will be waiting new parts appear in market only every 5 years
> not happy with board - RMA it,and if after you still be unhappy - back it to your retailer and chose another


Your argument of user-related issues applies to noobs, I'm not one. The point is that it had been working alright at one time and now it's not. It's as simple as that and I didn't take out the mobo or damage it in any other way, physically.

Yes I agree, no company is perfect, but we all know that gigabyte hands down has the best build quality in their mobo's, but without good software to make use of that hardware is useless. It's not rocket science to understand man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i am wondering if he is using a SB CPU, as IB should have 0 problems with this. If he is using SB well nothing has changed from F7 to now unless he isn't OCing. So I am confused.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> IMO dude if F7 gave you 0 problems and flashing to later BIOses did, and then flashing back didn't fix the issue, then the issue isn't motherboard related, unless you physically hurt the board. There are also two F7 BIOSes I believe.
> And here is the deal people, if you have no problems then why update your BIOS?
> The issues explained here really are all kinds of tiny issues, the freezing ones, from here on out will be caused by PCI devices which are not fully compatible. At least with the M3, UD3H, UD5H, and Sniper 3 if you still have a freezing issue then please remove any device like eSATA drive, let's say you have a game pad or whatever, or a sound card and see if it still persists. if it still persists then download DPC latency checker and check your DPC latency. Then report it, don't report i before hand and just not even tell us what you have in your system. But as far as the CPU and BCLK go, all new BIOSes(F7 and newer) should have BCLK set to 100.1 default
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as well as tune a CPU low power state to increase its stability if the CPU is slightly degraded.
> A word to the wise watching these forums, asus, asrock, msi, evga all hate GB for their Z77 pricing, thus companies with the resources(there really are only 2 who can afford full time forum trolls) I already caught 1 troll who worked for one of those companies posting in my threads on more than 1 forum, i am not saying that every new member who comes here with 2 posts and 0 rep is a troll, they aren't. They are here so that we can help them as this is the most active thread for these boards on the internet. When i look around i see tons of threads with problems with asus, asrock, and msi z77 boards even on this forum that just get bumped out of the way because no one responds to them. However that also makes this thread a great target.
> Here is my rule, if an issue is extremely odd, like you have never heard of it before and you cannot reproduce it, it is either user's error or it needs RMA.
> If more than 1 user is reporting the same thing after a BIOS release then there might be something changed that would do that, their aim with BETA isn't to make them worse, however if you haven't noticed since F8 we haven't had one official BIOS. If you are a NOOB(which is basically you would say on newegg reviews that your tech level is the highest score), then you should NOT be touching BETA BIOSes, end of story. BETAs are only for use by those who know how to use them, and don't complain about things they cannot describe. Then find the issue and report it with enough accuracy so someone can take it higher up.
> F9E is a decent BIOS, I will test F10A if I have time today.
> if your USB hub is doing surge errors, just disable the errors is the best thing I can tell you. The BIOS has very little do with with windows being mad. Windows 7 is just angry it will have the most legacy driver for intel USb 3.0, lol Windows 8 will have a much nicer driver for it on release, a very good driver that hopefully someone will be able to get to work on windows 7.
> BTW Ali Man I am extremely confused, You never told me what type of CPU you have, what type of anything other than your motherboard. From your post I cannot actually understand your problem. You are saying the system will shutdown and then restart and then what? or it will start and then shutdown? Are you overclocking? What happens after it shuts down and turns back on? You aren't describing in any detail.
> Ahh Ali Man you are the guy who is complaining about not being able to resume from sleep except by pressing the power button?


The only reason why I updated it was to get better OC'ing potential out of my memory sticks. They're 2133Mhz G.Skill's 4x2GB where they perfectly boot-up at 2200Mhz but never at 2400Mhz and no matter how lose the timings are. But then i realized that it was the sticks themselves, which was an obvious conclusion.

Yes I'am the same guy who had even posted before about the sleeping issues and no one even cared to address my problem. However, you were right till a certain extent that after I turn off the 'CPU PLL overvolt' option in the bios, the sleep function works but turning it on from the keyboard/mouse, but now another problem is also related to it.

First let me tell you that I did update me PC specs a while back, but I'm not sure if you guys can view it. Well no, I'm not running an SB processor, but rather a 3570K.
Check out this link for my overall build:
http://www.pakgamers.com/forums/f139/ivy-bridge-build-130677/

I'm running it at 4.5Ghz @ 1.200V (LLC @ Extreme). This is the lowest Vcore that I can get 4.5Ghz stable at and the hottest core spikes till 65C max.

Now coming to the problem, when I shutdown the PC, it plainly shuts down which is good. But when i restart the PC or even put it in sleep mode, it would first shutdown for around 2 seconds and then turn back on and perform the desired operation. If you see what I'm trying to say, this thing really does get to be a pain. I've tried almost all bioses available except for the F6 one as that's the first bios, so I was just reluctant to go too back.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Your argument of user-related issues applies to noobs, I'm not one. The point is that it had been working alright at one time and now it's not. It's as simple as that and I didn't take out the mobo or damage it in any other way, physically.
> Yes I agree, no company is perfect, but we all know that gigabyte hands down has the best build quality in their mobo's, but without good software to make use of that hardware is useless. It's not rocket science to understand man.
> The only reason why I updated it was to get better OC'ing potential out of my memory sticks. They're 2133Mhz G.Skill's 4x2GB where they perfectly boot-up at 2200Mhz but never at 2400Mhz and no matter how lose the timings are. But then i realized that it was the sticks themselves, which was an obvious conclusion.
> Yes I'am the same guy who had even posted before about the sleeping issues and no one even cared to address my problem. However, you were right till a certain extent that after I turn off the 'CPU PLL overvolt' option in the bios, the sleep function works but turning it on from the keyboard/mouse, but now another problem is also related to it.
> First let me tell you that I did update me PC specs a while back, but I'm not sure if you guys can view it. Well no, I'm not running an SB processor, but rather a 3570K.
> Check out this link for my overall build:
> http://www.pakgamers.com/forums/f139/ivy-bridge-build-130677/
> I'm running it at 4.5Ghz @ 1.200V (LLC @ Extreme). This is the lowest Vcore that I can get 4.5Ghz stable at and the hottest core spikes till 65C max.
> Now coming to the problem, when I shutdown the PC, it plainly shuts down which is good. But when i restart the PC or even put it in sleep mode, it would first shutdown for around 2 seconds and then turn back on and perform the desired operation. If you see what I'm trying to say, this thing really does get to be a pain. I've tried almost all bioses available except for the F6 one as that's the first bios, so I was just reluctant to go too back.


Wait so your only issue is that when you restart your motherboard is shuts itself all the way down and then turns on?
How is that so annoying to you? When you are OCed the systems have to double check themselves, GB has built in fault check points throughout the operation of the system when it is OCed. Have you tried the behavior when the system is not OCed?.


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Your argument of user-related issues applies to noobs, I'm not one. The point is that it had been working alright at one time and now it's not. It's as simple as that and I didn't take out the mobo or damage it in any other way, physically.
> Yes I agree, no company is perfect, but we all know that gigabyte hands down has the best build quality in their mobo's, but without good software to make use of that hardware is useless. It's not rocket science to understand man.


well,i cant see what you doing with your pc,and that "user related" was overal,not for you,you taking it to personally,nobody called you n00b
if you think that Asus, or MSI dont have problems - you are very mistaken,i spent 2 years in one forum,where people talking about Asus P8P67 boards problems,and still after 2 years have same problems,they not updated bios for 4 months,even with very well know bugs,while GB did more than 4 times during last 30 days,that says something and i must say that with every bios update my board just keeps getting better
good software takes time,just as with any other piece of pc hardware,you always need better drivers for vga,for other things,same with bios,i dont see problem here,im yet to see ANY board who release they mobo with perfect bios,especially that UEFI not long ago introduced

Sin0822 - can you look at my post 2644 at 265 page,and what you think what problem might be?
i dont have any friends around with 1155 socket cpu...


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> A word to the wise watching these forums, asus, asrock, msi, evga all hate GB for their Z77 pricing, thus companies with the resources(there really are only 2 who can afford full time forum trolls) I already caught 1 troll who worked for one of those companies posting in my threads on more than 1 forum, i am not saying that every new member who comes here with 2 posts and 0 rep is a troll, they aren't. They are here so that we can help them as this is the most active thread for these boards on the internet.


Ok, since I happen to have only a handful of posts on my back, zero rep and I got that "but you probably already knew that" from barkeater, I feel compelled to address this comment. Sorry, I won't be brief, since being brief before has led, I believe, to a misunderstanding.

Once it was witches, then there were commies, now it's trolls. Every age has its obsessions. 
I have no way to convince you, but let me state this in a clearer way: I have been positively impressed by Gigabyte's outstanding board quality. I am writing this from a Ga-8iexp-something (I don't even remember since it's been so long...) that I bought 10 years ago. Yes I am still using a Pentium 4 8-O and not even a fast one. Apart from some minor problems that were fixed in the next revision (mine is rev 1.0), the board has never let me down. My cat even peed on it, I had to take it out of the case, wash it with alcohol, scrape away some (electrolyte?) that seeped from the capacitors near the CPU (solid state capacitors were prolly off limits back then, I guess) and it's still rock solid.

That is the reason I want to buy Gigabyte again (and I have bought Gigabyte for my nieces and cousin's computers).
That is the reason I am here.

I looked up Asrock, Asus and MSI, because I am not a fanboy. I believe Asrock should fire (or at least crucify for half an afternoon) the PR guy who let a picture of a bent board be used for its publicity. I mean, what is the message you give about board quality when you show a board that bends like cardboard? If that's the level of attention to details of your company, then I am not going to be your customer.
MSI didn't feel just right for my needs, tough luck.
Asus almost got me with their "super power saving that will make polar bears shove the snow from your front yard and pandas write you love letters with haikus". But then their power consumption - according to all the comparative reviews I've seen so far - are way higher than Gigabyte's (who knows, maybe because of the ceramic capacitors...  ). Moreover, they did away with DVI on the boards that I was interested in, so...

...so here I am. Still thinking "D***n, another rev 1.0 board, what could be wrong this time? something I don't give a **** about, like the distorted audio on the 8iexp (and something else I do not even remember), or something I do care about, like stability at low power consumption?"
And then I read opinions about a bios that seems a bit too buggy (early versions of the uefi not working with logitech and microsoft mice? random freezings, the 100.1 bclk fix, people who has to step up their voltages more than they wished to in order to achieve stability...), probably because of an early release, or because Intel supposedly had the manufacturers wait until they perfected (so to speak, thinking what they did with the TIM) their Ivy Bridge act. Then I stumbled upon the page mentioning the missing capacitors and I think: mmmm, what would happen if the caps were indeed required and gigabyte's engineers were overconfident in their "our copper is thicker than the others"? Is it possible for the cpu to receive the wrong voltage and then shut down (-> random freezes)?

I know it sounds like "the earthquake happened only after Urugh ate the sacred berries, so let's throw Urugh into the volcano to appease the angry gods". But I believe it's quite normal trying to see the source of (all?) problems in what has been done differently from the past - or from other manufacturers (including Intel itself, if I am not mistaken).

I read fasty's and yours replies to that issue (I apologize I did that after barkeater pointed out it had already been discussed but I have little or no trust in forum search engines so I tend not to use them much - I am a Usenet kind of guy). Basically the reason for the lack of caps is that their VRM is the best out there and they can do away with the caps under the cpu. You pointed out that Asrock has no digital PWM suppliers, but that made me wonder: is ASUS's all digital power supply so inferior to gigabyte's (I could not find the chip used by their P8Z77 boards) that they HAVE TO USE CAPS (pun intended)?

It also strikes me as odd the lack of curiosity for a solution that differentiate these boards from the competition. Just saying "GB's VRM is the best bar none, so if you bring the matter up you must be a troll, or a mudslinger paid by the competition - hence we should not discuss it anymore" is a bit too fanboyish for my tastes.
Nobody is interested in the details - and possible drawbacks - of such a feat? Or is that the ultimate perfection in voltage reg design?

I believe Gigabyte engineers are human, hence fallible: after all, there is a rev 1.2 of the GA 8iexp, so, at least in the past, they felt like they did something that could be done better . From what I've read thus far the capacitors can be done away with if you have a speedy voltage regulator and low ohmic losses. Murphy rules at hand, there are lots of things that could go wrong: overestimating the thickness of the copper stripes ("what do you mean UD4? Isn't this a UD5 board?"  ), an engineering error ("Oh, the capacitors are not those cute curly symbols?"), a bug in the simulation program ("What do you mean 'in meters'? Didn't we use feet?", a rerouting that had to be done on the fly ("What does it mean 'they're like microwaves, you can't run a stripe around the board twice'?"), some other problem that had to be fixed by bringing certain parameters out of specs ("How, c'mon, don't tell me your PCI card can't hold 101.10 MHz! That's ridiculous!"). Literally tons of things could go wrong. And then maybe they didn't.

"What if" is the key to discovery and to a better understanding.
Hence, let me restate my question: "somebody knows what would happen if we took away the ceramic caps from under the cpu of a z77 board that has to use them (like ASUS's P8Z77)?"
Fanboys please abstain.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Wait so your only issue is that when you restart your motherboard is shuts itself all the way down and then turns on?
> How is that so annoying to you? When you are OCed the systems have to double check themselves, GB has built in fault check points throughout the operation of the system when it is OCed. Have you tried the behavior when the system is not OCed?.


There was something that I forgot pointing out but I will now.
As I said that after CPU PPL Overvolt is disabled, only then i can enable the PC from it's sleep mode, from the mouse/Keyboard. But when CPU PLL is disabled, the system BSOD's randomly which obviously means that it's not stable while being OC'ed and with it being disabled. So now I gotta choose between either having the comfort of using the sleep mode properly or having my system stable, lol I just can't have both now?

I'll put this in as easy words as I can. I hope you get it this time. If I restart the PC, it would shutdown for a few seconds and then turn on and pop into windows. When I put the PC to sleep, it would shutdown (Now instead of just staying there), it would turn back on again and then finally turn back off and then go into sleep mode.

Yes it does piss me off because I don't like my Rig turning on and off time and again, apart from the fact that it's not good for the hardware itself. And I'm not sure that why did you mention those check points? I mean for what reason? I'm not doubting the systems stability when OC'ed, with LLC set to extreme, the voltage comes as close as when entered in the bios, it's that accurate which is a really good thing. But it acts the same way even when it's not even OC'ed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> well,i cant see what you doing with your pc,and that "user related" was overal,not for you,you taking it to personally,nobody called you n00b
> if you think that Asus, or MSI dont have problems - you are very mistaken,i spent 2 years in one forum,where people talking about Asus P8P67 boards problems,and still after 2 years have same problems,they not updated bios for 4 months,even with very well know bugs,while GB did more than 4 times during last 30 days,that says something and i must say that with every bios update my board just keeps getting better
> good software takes time,just as with any other piece of pc hardware,you always need better drivers for vga,for other things,same with bios,i dont see problem here,im yet to see ANY board who release they mobo with perfect bios,especially that UEFI not long ago introduced
> Sin0822 - can you look at my post 2644 at 265 page,and what you think what problem might be?
> i dont have any friends around with 1155 socket cpu...


Every new Beta Bios that gigabyte comes out with doesn't guarantee any way of being better than the previous one. Your statement is really flawed here. And I even said that not every other company has a perfect end-product, I'm not sure if you even read what I said previously.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Your argument of user-related issues applies to noobs, I'm not one. The point is that it had been working alright at one time and now it's not. It's as simple as that and I didn't take out the mobo or damage it in any other way, physically.
> Yes I agree, no company is perfect, but we all know that gigabyte hands down has the best build quality in their mobo's, but without good software to make use of that hardware is useless. It's not rocket science to understand man.
> The only reason why I updated it was to get better OC'ing potential out of my memory sticks. They're 2133Mhz G.Skill's 4x2GB where they perfectly boot-up at 2200Mhz but never at 2400Mhz and no matter how lose the timings are. But then i realized that it was the sticks themselves, which was an obvious conclusion.
> Yes I'am the same guy who had even posted before about the sleeping issues and no one even cared to address my problem. However, you were right till a certain extent that after I turn off the 'CPU PLL overvolt' option in the bios, the sleep function works but turning it on from the keyboard/mouse, but now another problem is also related to it.
> First let me tell you that I did update me PC specs a while back, but I'm not sure if you guys can view it. Well no, I'm not running an SB processor, but rather a 3570K.
> Check out this link for my overall build:
> http://www.pakgamers.com/forums/f139/ivy-bridge-build-130677/
> I'm running it at 4.5Ghz @ 1.200V (LLC @ Extreme). This is the lowest Vcore that I can get 4.5Ghz stable at and the hottest core spikes till 65C max.
> Now coming to the problem, when I shutdown the PC, it plainly shuts down which is good. But when i restart the PC or even put it in sleep mode, it would first shutdown for around 2 seconds and then turn back on and perform the desired operation. If you see what I'm trying to say, this thing really does get to be a pain. I've tried almost all bioses available except for the F6 one as that's the first bios, so I was just reluctant to go too back.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait so your only issue is that when you restart your motherboard is shuts itself all the way down and then turns on?
> How is that so annoying to you? When you are OCed the systems have to double check themselves, GB has built in fault check points throughout the operation of the system when it is OCed. Have you tried the behavior when the system is not OCed?.
Click to expand...

GB boards have done this for ages. My EP45-UD3P used to do this 2-3 times on really big OCs... (4.5GHz+) and once when below 4.5GHz.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, since I happen to have only a handful of posts on my back, zero rep and I got that "but you probably already knew that" from barkeater, I feel compelled to address this comment. Sorry, I won't be brief, since being brief before has led, I believe, to a misunderstanding.
> 
> Once it was witches, then there were commies, now it's trolls. Every age has its obsessions.
> I have no way to convince you, but let me state this in a clearer way: I have been positively impressed by Gigabyte's outstanding board quality. I am writing this from a Ga-8iexp-something (I don't even remember since it's been so long...) that I bought 10 years ago. Yes I am still using a Pentium 4 8-O and not even a fast one. Apart from some minor problems that were fixed in the next revision (mine is rev 1.0), the board has never let me down. My cat even peed on it, I had to take it out of the case, wash it with alcohol, scrape away some (electrolyte?) that seeped from the capacitors near the CPU (solid state capacitors were prolly off limits back then, I guess) and it's still rock solid.
> That is the reason I want to buy Gigabyte again (and I have bought Gigabyte for my nieces and cousin's computers).
> That is the reason I am here.
> I looked up Asrock, Asus and MSI, because I am not a fanboy. I believe Asrock should fire (or at least crucify for half an afternoon) the PR guy who let a picture of a bent board be used for its publicity. I mean, what is the message you give about board quality when you show a board that bends like cardboard? If that's the level of attention to details of your company, then I am not going to be your customer.
> MSI didn't feel just right for my needs, tough luck.
> Asus almost got me with their "super power saving that will make polar bears shove the snow from your front yard and pandas write you love letters with haikus". But then their power consumption - according to all the comparative reviews I've seen so far - are way higher than Gigabyte's (who knows, maybe because of the ceramic capacitors...  ). Moreover, they did away with DVI on the boards that I was interested in, so...
> ...so here I am. Still thinking "D***n, another rev 1.0 board, what could be wrong this time? something I don't give a **** about, like the distorted audio on the 8iexp (and someting else I do not even remember), or something I do care about, like stability at low power consumption?"
> And then I read opinions about a bios that seems a bit too buggy (early versions of the uefi not working with logitech and microsoft mice? random freezings, the 100.1 bclk fix, people who has to step up their voltages more than they wished to in order to achieve stability...), probably because of an early release, or because Intel supposedly had the manufacturers wait until they perfected (so to speak, thinking what they did with the TIM) their Ivy Bridge act. Then I stumbled upon the page mentioning the missing capacitors and I think: mmmm, what would happen if the caps were indeed required and gigabyte's engineers were overconfindent in their "our copper is thicker than the others"? Is it possible for the cpu to receive the wrong voltage and then shut down (-> random freezes)?
> I know it sounds like "the earthquake happened only after Urugh ate the sacred berries, so let's throw Urugh into the volcano to appease the angry gods". But I believe it's quite normal trying to see the source of (all?) problems in what has been done differently from the past - or from other manufacturers (including Intel itself, if I am not mistaken).
> I read fasty's and yours replies to that issue (I apologize I did that after barkeater pointed out it had already been discussed but I have little or no trust in forum search engines so I tend not to use them much - I am a Usenet kind of guy). Basically the reason for the lack of caps is that their VRM is the best out there and they can do away with the caps under the cpu. You pointed out that Asrock has no digital PWM suppliers, but that made me wonder: is ASUS's all digital power supply so inferior to gigabyte's (I could not find the chip used by their P8Z77 boards) that they HAVE TO USE CAPS (pun intended)?
> It also strikes me as odd the lack of curiosity for a solution that differitiate these boards from the competition. Just saying "GB's VRM is the best bar none, so if you bring the matter up you must be a troll, or a mudslinger paid by the competion - hence we should not discuss it anymore" is a bit too fanboish for my tastes.
> Nobody is interested in the details - and possible drawbacks - of such a feat? Or is that the ultimate perfection in voltage reg design?
> I believe Gigabyte engineers are human, hence fallible: after all, there is a rev 1.2 of the GA 8iexp, so they flet like they did something that could be done better in the past. From what I've read thus far the capacitors can be done away with if you have a speedy voltage regulator and low ohmic losses. Murphy rules at hand, there are lots of things that could go wrong: overestimating the thickness of the copper stripes ("what do you meand UD4? Isn't this a UD5 board?"  ), an engineering error ("Oh, the capacitors are not those cute curly symbols?"), a bug in the simulation program ("What do you mean 'in meters'? Didn't we use feet?", a rerouting that had to be done on the fly ("What does it mean 'they're like microwaves, you can't run a stripe around the board twice'?"), some other problem that had to be fixed by bringing certain parameters out of specs ("How, c'mon, don't tell me your PCI card can't hold 101.10 MHz! That's ridicolous!"). Literally tons of things could go wrong. And then maybe they didn't.
> "What if" is the key to discovery and to a better understanding.
> Hence, let me restate my question: "somebody knows what would happen if we took away the cercamic caps from under the cpu of a z77 board that has to use them (like ASUS's P8Z77)?"
> Fanboys please abstain.


No GB and ASUS currently use the same supplier, but that has little to nothing to do with the need for extra capacitors. If you look inside the socket there are high frequency capacitors in there, the point is the put them as close to the CPU as possible, so you start inside the socket and then to the back, however there is an optimum amount to balance out everything. Saying that capacitors are missing in the back must have been written by a new ASUS hire who has no knowledge of electrical engineering, probably some media asus hired recently, as that is what they have started to do(take people who used to review motherboards and quit, and offer them jobs in marketing).

I don't work for GB, all the help i provide here is out of my own free will, and what i say doesn't represent GB as a company. GB and other manufacturers do their best to minimize variation in the PCB so they can use the same PCB for two or more boards. That means that some of the layout considerations in terms of the MLCCs(the ceramic capacitors) are different board to board.

There are many reasons that capacitor count varies on different boards, that is because almost all boards vary in what MOSFETs, Inductors, capacitors, as well as settings and transient controls they use. Switching frequency for example is one factor that differs board to board and directly has an impact on ripple, and it has an impact on how much output capacitance is present(higher switching frequency=lower output capacitors used). Even though all the ceramic capacitors look the same their specifications can differ too.

Let's take one example of a way to decrease ripple other than using capacitors(switching frequency is a big one, but here is one that is much more complicated), I will use the ASRock Z77 Extreme4 Gen 3 and the GIGABYTE Z77X-UD3H as examples. I could use the UD5H but i am using two boards in the same price segment. The ASRock on the surface looks like it has 8 phases for the CPU VCore, the UD3H uses 6 phases. However the UD3H uses more true phases. That sounds odd right? How can an 8 phase board use less true phases than a 6 phase board? That is because the PWM the ASRock uses is a 6+1 phase PWM and the GB uses a 6+2 phase PWM, on neither PWM can the +1 or +2 be added to the second set(on some PWMs this is possible such as CHL8328, but not on these two).

So the question remains how does ASRock get 8 phases from 6 phases? Phases are all about being symmetric, so you cannot double a few of the true phases while still using the others. No, you have to take 4 phases and double them and then disable 2 of the true phases. That means that they are only using 4 true phases. Now all manufacturers do this, GB did it a lot with X58 and Z68 and X79, ASUS does it with their Maximus 5 Gene, Maximus 4 Gene as well as many other boards even though they use a PWM that can do 8 phases on a single rail.

The reason being that the +1 or +2 allows the manufacturer to use 1 PWM to drive CPU VCore and either iGPU or VTT(and IMC) which requires their own phases on a separate rail(s), then use a second cheaper PWM to power the VTT or iGPU. If they used 1 PWM for all VCore then they woudl have to use 2 other PWMs or 1 more expensive PWM. So it is most cost effective to use 1 PWM for VCore and iGPU is most common, that is why PWMs come in 4+1, 6+1, 6+2, and 7+1 dual output models. There are some 8 phase and 6 phase only singe outputs, and one CHil 7+1 can also do 8 flat, however the intersil and the IR that asrock and GB use cannot. I am getting to my point, so please hang on.

Now why dose this make a difference? The reason is beucase the more true phases you use, the more of an interleaving affect you get. The interleaving affect uses the fact that each phase is out of phase and symmetrical with all the other phases(it is on when the others are off) in the end you get combined ripple frequency of n(times) the amount of a single phase. So if you have a true 4 phase/virtual 8 phase such as Extreme4 then your combined ripple frequency is 4x that of any individual phase. On the UD3H you have 6 true phases and thus the combined ripple frequency is 6x that of any single phase. This interleaving affect increases ripple frequency which decreases the amplitude of the ripple(think of a graph with amplitude being the length of the peak), when you decrease the amplitude of the ripple then you also decrease the ripple current. That reduction of ripple through increased ripple frequency lessens the demand on the output filter to get rid of all the ripple, and thus you need to use more output capacitors when you have less true phases. However while this affect is MUCH greater from 2-4 and 4-6, from 6-8 this affect is a bit less.

This graph shows you the decrease and it is straight from the Intersil design guide for the ISL6366 which is the VRD12 certified analog PWM. The ISL6367 is the VRD 12/12.5 certified analog PWM that asrock uses on the extreme4 same as the ISL6366 except in some minor SVID things. The GB UD3H uses an IR3567 which is a VRD 12/12.5 certified digital PWM.

Now that isn't the reason GB doesn't fill up those bottom caps, the truth is they just aren't needed, there are SO many factors that adding extra capacitors can actually hurt the performance. GIGABYTE uses different aluminum capacitors, they use different chokes(inductors) and they use different PCB and MOSFETs and PWM and traces and EVERYTHING is different. Balance is the key, and almost all modern VRMs use a mix of high cost aluminum polymers and cheap ceramics to attain what the manufacturer desires. On the UD3H perhaps more of the caps would be used, but on the UD5H the use of more inductors could also help reduce the ripple as less current is flowing through each as could the difference in the specs of the MOSFETs. The UD5H actually has 1 more output capacitor than the UD3H perhaps because it is needed, thus even though the interleaving affect is the same, perhaps the spread of the current requires and extra cap, everything is different on every board.

I don't mean to call anyone a noob, i just get frustrated when people report issues but are in no way willing to explain further or accept that it could possibly be their fault. Everyone makes mistakes and everyone is a noob in some sense. I am a noob when it comes to SSDs past 2011, but i know my stuff when it comes to motherboards, however many other people don't. I try to help them and share my knowledge, but to do that i need as much information as possible.

I treat all of you equally, no one differently, however since i made this thread I have seen a HUGE influx of new users, now that makes me happy to see users are coming here for me to help them, but it also makes me suspicious, as it is very easy to take advantage. I just want to let people know issues reported in this thread doesn't mean everyone will have them.

Please if you have an issue elaborate, but don't thin i or others can read your mind, please give us all the statistics, exactly what happens, and exactly what parts and settings you are using. That is all I ask.

Also the random freezing issue, it shouldn't happen at all unless you have a fault memory modules, a bad OC, or you have a PCI add in card which is causing DPC latency spikes, which is now the number 1 cause of the BSOD. Now if that is you then GB is looking into the issue. Also CPu PLL OV is needed for OCing, in all previous BIOSes it is enabled by default, enabling it here shouldn't hurt anything with ivy bridge. i will try it out tonight Ali Man, and investigate what you are reporting.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, since I happen to have only a handful of posts on my back, zero rep and I got that "but you probably already knew that" from barkeater, I feel compelled to address this comment. Sorry, I won't be brief, since being brief before has led, I believe, to a misunderstanding.
> 
> Once it was witches, then there were commies, now it's trolls. Every age has its obsessions.
> I have no way to convince you, but let me state this in a clearer way: I have been positively impressed by Gigabyte's outstanding board quality. I am writing this from a Ga-8iexp-something (I don't even remember since it's been so long...) that I bought 10 years ago. Yes I am still using a Pentium 4 8-O and not even a fast one. Apart from some minor problems that were fixed in the next revision (mine is rev 1.0), the board has never let me down. My cat even peed on it, I had to take it out of the case, wash it with alcohol, scrape away some (electrolyte?) that seeped from the capacitors near the CPU (solid state capacitors were prolly off limits back then, I guess) and it's still rock solid.
> That is the reason I want to buy Gigabyte again (and I have bought Gigabyte for my nieces and cousin's computers).
> That is the reason I am here.
> I looked up Asrock, Asus and MSI, because I am not a fanboy. I believe Asrock should fire (or at least crucify for half an afternoon) the PR guy who let a picture of a bent board be used for its publicity. I mean, what is the message you give about board quality when you show a board that bends like cardboard? If that's the level of attention to details of your company, then I am not going to be your customer.
> MSI didn't feel just right for my needs, tough luck.
> Asus almost got me with their "super power saving that will make polar bears shove the snow from your front yard and pandas write you love letters with haikus". But then their power consumption - according to all the comparative reviews I've seen so far - are way higher than Gigabyte's (who knows, maybe because of the ceramic capacitors...  ). Moreover, they did away with DVI on the boards that I was interested in, so...
> ...so here I am. Still thinking "D***n, another rev 1.0 board, what could be wrong this time? something I don't give a **** about, like the distorted audio on the 8iexp (and someting else I do not even remember), or something I do care about, like stability at low power consumption?"
> And then I read opinions about a bios that seems a bit too buggy (early versions of the uefi not working with logitech and microsoft mice? random freezings, the 100.1 bclk fix, people who has to step up their voltages more than they wished to in order to achieve stability...), probably because of an early release, or because Intel supposedly had the manufacturers wait until they perfected (so to speak, thinking what they did with the TIM) their Ivy Bridge act. Then I stumbled upon the page mentioning the missing capacitors and I think: mmmm, what would happen if the caps were indeed required and gigabyte's engineers were overconfindent in their "our copper is thicker than the others"? Is it possible for the cpu to receive the wrong voltage and then shut down (-> random freezes)?
> I know it sounds like "the earthquake happened only after Urugh ate the sacred berries, so let's throw Urugh into the volcano to appease the angry gods". But I believe it's quite normal trying to see the source of (all?) problems in what has been done differently from the past - or from other manufacturers (including Intel itself, if I am not mistaken).
> I read fasty's and yours replies to that issue (I apologize I did that after barkeater pointed out it had already been discussed but I have little or no trust in forum search engines so I tend not to use them much - I am a Usenet kind of guy). Basically the reason for the lack of caps is that their VRM is the best out there and they can do away with the caps under the cpu. You pointed out that Asrock has no digital PWM suppliers, but that made me wonder: is ASUS's all digital power supply so inferior to gigabyte's (I could not find the chip used by their P8Z77 boards) that they HAVE TO USE CAPS (pun intended)?
> It also strikes me as odd the lack of curiosity for a solution that differitiate these boards from the competition. Just saying "GB's VRM is the best bar none, so if you bring the matter up you must be a troll, or a mudslinger paid by the competion - hence we should not discuss it anymore" is a bit too fanboish for my tastes.
> Nobody is interested in the details - and possible drawbacks - of such a feat? Or is that the ultimate perfection in voltage reg design?
> I believe Gigabyte engineers are human, hence fallible: after all, there is a rev 1.2 of the GA 8iexp, so they flet like they did something that could be done better in the past. From what I've read thus far the capacitors can be done away with if you have a speedy voltage regulator and low ohmic losses. Murphy rules at hand, there are lots of things that could go wrong: overestimating the thickness of the copper stripes ("what do you meand UD4? Isn't this a UD5 board?"  ), an engineering error ("Oh, the capacitors are not those cute curly symbols?"), a bug in the simulation program ("What do you mean 'in meters'? Didn't we use feet?", a rerouting that had to be done on the fly ("What does it mean 'they're like microwaves, you can't run a stripe around the board twice'?"), some other problem that had to be fixed by bringing certain parameters out of specs ("How, c'mon, don't tell me your PCI card can't hold 101.10 MHz! That's ridicolous!"). Literally tons of things could go wrong. And then maybe they didn't.
> "What if" is the key to discovery and to a better understanding.
> Hence, let me restate my question: "somebody knows what would happen if we took away the cercamic caps from under the cpu of a z77 board that has to use them (like ASUS's P8Z77)?"
> Fanboys please abstain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No GB and ASUS currently use the same supplier, but that has little to nothing to do with the need for extra capacitors. If you look inside the socket there are high frequency capacitors in there, the point is the put them as close to the CPU as possible, so you start inside the socket and then to the back, however there is an optimum amount to balance out everything. Saying that capacitors are missing in the back must have been written by a new ASUS hire who has no knowledge of electrical engineering, probably some media asus hired recently, as that is what they have started to do(take people who used to review motherboards and quit, and offer them jobs in marketing).
> 
> I don't work for GB, all the help i provide here is out of my own free will, and what i say doesn't represent GB as a company. GB and other manufacturers do their best to minimize variation in the PCB so they can use the same PCB for two or more boards. That means that some of the layout considerations in terms of the MLCCs(the ceramic capacitors) are different board to board.
> 
> There are many reasons that capacitor count varies on different boards, that is because almost all boards vary in what MOSFETs, Inductors, capacitors, as well as settings and transient controls they use. Switching frequency for example is one factor that differs board to board and directly has an impact on ripple, and it has an impact on how much output capacitance is present(higher switching frequency=lower output capacitors used). Even though all the ceramic capacitors look the same their specifications can differ too.
> 
> Let's take one example of a way to decrease ripple other than using capacitors(switching frequency is a big one, but here is one that is much more complicated), I will use the ASRock Z77 Extreme4 Gen 3 and the GIGABYTE Z77X-UD3H as examples. I could use the UD5H but i am using two boards in the same price segment. The ASRock on the surface looks like it has 8 phases for the CPU VCore, the UD3H uses 6 phases. However the UD3H uses more true phases. That sounds odd right? How can an 8 phase board use less true phases than a 6 phase board? That is because the PWM the ASRock uses is a 6+1 phase PWM and the GB uses a 6+2 phase PWM, on neither PWM can the +1 or +2 be added to the second set(on some PWMs this is possible such as CHL8328, but not on these two).
> 
> So the question remains how does ASRock get 8 phases from 6 phases? Phases are all about being symmetric, so you cannot double a few of the true phases while still using the others. No, you have to take 4 phases and double them and then disable 2 of the true phases. That means that they are only using 4 true phases. Now all manufacturers do this, GB did it a lot with X58 and Z68 and X79, ASUS does it with their Maximus 5 Gene, Maximus 4 Gene as well as many other boards even though they use a PWM that can do 8 phases on a single rail.
> 
> The reason being that the +1 or +2 allows the manufacturer to use 1 PWM to drive CPU VCore and either iGPU or VTT(and IMC) which requires their own phases on a separate rail(s), then use a second cheaper PWM to power the VTT or iGPU. If they used 1 PWM for all VCore then they woudl have to use 2 other PWMs or 1 more expensive PWM. So it is most cost effective to use 1 PWM for VCore and iGPU is most common, that is why PWMs come in 4+1, 6+1, 6+2, and 7+1 dual output models. There are some 8 phase and 6 phase only singe outputs, and one CHil 7+1 can also do 8 flat, however the intersil and the IR that asrock and GB use cannot. I am getting to my point, so please hang on.
> 
> Now why dose this make a difference? The reason is beucase the more true phases you use, the more of an interleaving affect you get. The interleaving affect uses the fact that each phase is out of phase and symmetrical with all the other phases(it is on when the others are off) in the end you get combined ripple frequency of n(times) the amount of a single phase. So if you have a true 4 phase/virtual 8 phase such as Extreme4 then your combined ripple frequency is 4x that of any individual phase. On the UD3H you have 6 true phases and thus the combined ripple frequency is 6x that of any single phase. This interleaving affect increases ripple frequency which decreases the amplitude of the ripple(think of a graph with amplitude being the length of the peak), when you decrease the amplitude of the ripple then you also decrease the ripple current. That reduction of ripple through increased ripple frequency lessens the demand on the output filter to get rid of all the ripple, and thus you need to use more output capacitors when you have less true phases. However while this affect is MUCH greater from 2-4 and 4-6, from 6-8 this affect is a bit less.
> 
> This graph shows you the decrease and it is straight from the Intersil design guide for the ISL6366 which is the VRD12 certified analog PWM. The ISL6367 is the VRD 12/12.5 certified analog PWM that asrock uses on the extreme4 same as the ISL6366 except in some minor SVID things. The GB UD3H uses an IR3567 which is a VRD 12/12.5 certified digital PWM.
> 
> Now that isn't the reason GB doesn't fill up those bottom caps, the truth is they just aren't needed, there are SO many factors that adding extra capacitors can actually hurt the performance. GIGABYTE uses different aluminum capacitors, they use different chokes(inductors) and they use different PCB and MOSFETs and PWM and traces and EVERYTHING is different. Balance is the key, and almost all modern VRMs use a mix of high cost aluminum polymers and cheap ceramics to attain what the manufacturer desires. On the UD3H perhaps more of the caps would be used, but on the UD5H the use of more inductors could also help reduce the ripple as less current is flowing through each as could the difference in the specs of the MOSFETs. The UD5H actually has 1 more output capacitor than the UD3H perhaps because it is needed, thus even though the interleaving affect is the same, perhaps the spread of the current requires and extra cap, everything is different on every board.
> 
> I don't mean to call anyone a noob, i just get frustrated when people report issues but are in no way willing to explain further or accept that it could possibly be their fault. Everyone makes mistakes and everyone is a noob in some sense. I am a noob when it comes to SSDs past 2011, but i know my stuff when it comes to motherboards, however many other people don't. I try to help them and share my knowledge, but to do that i need as much information as possible.
> 
> I treat all of you equally, no one differently, however since i made this thread I have seen a HUGE influx of new users, now that makes me happy to see users are coming here for me to help them, but it also makes me suspicious, as it is very easy to take advantage. I just want to let people know issues reported in this thread doesn't mean everyone will have them.
> 
> Please if you have an issue elaborate, but don't thin i or others can read your mind, please give us all the statistics, exactly what happens, and exactly what parts and settings you are using. That is all I ask.
> 
> Also the random freezing issue, it shouldn't happen at all unless you have a fault memory modules, a bad OC, or you have a PCI add in card which is causing DPC latency spikes, which is now the number 1 cause of the BSOD. Now if that is you then GB is looking into the issue. Also CPu PLL OV is needed for OCing, in all previous BIOSes it is enabled by default, enabling it here shouldn't hurt anything with ivy bridge. i will try it out tonight Ali Man, and investigate what you are reporting.
Click to expand...

Excellent post








I also agree that the UD5H is one of the best mobo in the world, ever









On the other hand I still have somehow a desire to the X79-UD5 and I haven't decide yet what to choose (and this is a 3770k ihs remove issue related too)
Excellent power consumption on load for the Z77X-UD5H (and idle too) and really nice idle power consumption for the X79-UD5:



http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Biostar/TZ77XE4_review/8.html

But I still don't get how come the X79-UD5's vrm will consume so much power on load. Are the guys from techpowerup somehow wrong?
They do reviewed recently the Sniper M3 (I honestly didn't like their review) and the two UD5's gets the same positions.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Gigabyte/G1_Sniper_M3_review/8.html

What do you personally think of the X79-UD5?


----------



## Ali Man

You should write a book on motherboards man and I'll be the first one to buy it!

It's interesting seeing that the Extreme4 uses only 4-true phases, it also must be the same with the Z77 Extreme6 as even that has an 8-phase VRM but with just more beefier sinks. But what's more catching is that those so-called 8-phases still doesn't hinder the mobo's OC'ing capability.


----------



## Sin0822

well yes they over kill, but the extreme6 uses good quality MOSFETs, but the extreme4 has some D-PAk fets, and they cause issues such as hot running VRMs(that is why a sub $150 has heatsinks like those) i mean you see the UD3H? it doesn't even have heatsinks on half of its FETs and it does WRs lol.. The VCore doesn't hold steady like it does on the UD3H or UD5H when you compare to E4. Get a DMM and read the real vcore using LLC extreme, it actually raises the voltage under load, then try LLC Turbo, and it barley drops in voltage. CPUz creates a reading which isn't so accurate.

The issue is that every VRM is different that is what i was trying to get across. I wasn't trying to be a dick, but the whole thing about marketing which aims to be technical yet is just wrong, it really gets to me. The worst is when people say stuff and can't back it up.

I don't mean to get at people, sorry if i was a bit over the top, i was just trying to explain that it isn't so simple as missing capacitors. They aren't missing, they are just not in the design. Seriously take a DMM to it and compare to any other board, i doubt any other board will have steady voltage like that. They tuned the LLC to perfection, there is even 1 LLC level higher which u cannot use with normal release BIOS, it is only for LN2, as you get higher in voltage and voltage, like 1.9v loading 150A at 100% then LLC extreme will droop down to like 1.88v, thus LLC +6 is used and it will keep the vcore very steady.

listen Ali Man i will look into your issue, but are you sure if you flash back to BIOS F7(try both) that the issue isn't different?


----------



## Ali Man

Well that is really interesting to know about the E4. I guess that price really does matter. But I'm sure that the previous Z68 Extreme4 GEN3 had better mosfets than the current Z77 one. I also owned this mobo (before the UD5H) and had a great experience with it.

I always thought of the same thing that you pointed out lol. That they always used the UD3H for WRs and not the UD5H








I knew that there must have been something behind it. The only reason why I didn't go for the UD3H was for the same reason that it didn't have sinks covering half of its VRM zone!

Well you even said that before of there being two F7 bioses, but I just flashed the one available at the giga website. However I just flashed back to F6 and the problem still continues. I'm thinking that this may only have to do with my mobo instead of anyone elses.


----------



## arrow0309

@Sin0822

Hope I wasn't so OT before, with my invasive X79-UD5 vrm's power issue, I really like this board and its vrm (even powerful) and the only reason I posted here is that I can't find a X79 Gigabyte motherboards thread here on the ocn.
Feel free non to answer my question if it's worth it

OT out


----------



## FoamyV

Any difference between Z77X-UD3H-WB WIFI and Z77X-Ud3H aside from the wireless connector? would it be worth the extra price?


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Every new Beta Bios that gigabyte comes out with doesn't guarantee any way of being better than the previous one. Your statement is really flawed here. And I even said that not every other company has a perfect end-product, I'm not sure if you even read what I said previously.


Every new Beta bios have fixes (mostly) from previous Betas,you should know this,and my statement is right
I read,it seems that you cant always get what others saying and replying in some kinda arrogant style
Dont like what others saying - just ignore,if you dont read,doesnt mean others do the same


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> @Sin0822
> Hope I wasn't so OT before, with my invasive X79-UD5 vrm's power issue, I really like this board and its vrm (even powerful) and the only reason I posted here is that I can't find a X79 Gigabyte motherboards thread here on the ocn.
> Feel free non to answer my question if it's worth it
> OT out


Hey sorry, um the power consumption thing is all about what ICs the board uses, it isn't all about the VRM. However if you have less phases then the heat is usually more. With the X79 series their MOSFETs had good enough power ratings but their RDS(ON) is okay, but with Z77 GB uses MOSFETs with much lower RDS(ON) for the VCore. Now they are switching to IR3550 which means they wont be using the same MOSFETs any longer. I would look into the X79-UP4 it shoudl be a great board from what I hear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Any difference between Z77X-UD3H-WB WIFI and Z77X-Ud3H aside from the wireless connector? would it be worth the extra price?


No difference. That is up to you.


----------



## pushaz

Hye Sin,furthest slot of ram from cpu not working,so only using 2x4Gb,if i put even 1 working stick in that furthest slot,it gives me code 51 (memory initialization error)
I explained whats happened on page 264,if you have time to read that in my poor english



Red - slot not working,Green - currently my ram in those slots
All 3 slots working except that marked in Red


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> Hye Sin,furthest slot of ram from cpu not working,so only using 2x4Gb,if i put even 1 working stick in that furthest slot,it gives me code 51 (memory initialization error)
> I explained whats happened on page 264,if you have time to read that in my poor english
> 
> Red - slot not working,Green - currently my ram in those slots
> All 3 slots working except that marked in Red


Hey o have you tried other memory modules to see if they work int he furthest slot? That is the slot you are supposed to use. Either your particular memory just wont work in it or there might be something wrong with the board. But that slot and the one right next to it each have its equal distance to the memory channel. So one could be defective or the trace refection might not be good for your sticks.


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey o have you tried other memory modules to see if they work int he furthest slot? That is the slot you are supposed to use. Either your particular memory just wont work in it or there might be something wrong with the board. But that slot and the one right next to it each have its equal distance to the memory channel. So one could be defective or the trace refection might not be good for your sticks.


so there is not many chances that my cpu memory controller bad?
thing is,this memory worked for my Asus P8P67 Pro for more than year,and 1 slot stopped working after i did routine cleaning,so i thought is mobo and got GB UD5..
well,i need to find somebody who have DDR3 memory then and try what you suggested
will report ASAP as i do it
THANKS Sin


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> @Sin0822
> Hope I wasn't so OT before, with my invasive X79-UD5 vrm's power issue, I really like this board and its vrm (even powerful) and the only reason I posted here is that I can't find a X79 Gigabyte motherboards thread here on the ocn.
> Feel free non to answer my question if it's worth it
> OT out
> 
> 
> 
> Hey sorry, um the power consumption thing is all about what ICs the board uses, it isn't all about the VRM. However if you have less phases then the heat is usually more. With the X79 series their MOSFETs had good enough power ratings but their RDS(ON) is okay, but with Z77 GB uses MOSFETs with much lower RDS(ON) for the VCore. Now they are switching to IR3550 which means they wont be using the same MOSFETs any longer. I would look into the X79-UP4 it shoudl be a great board from what I hear.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but I don't like the new UP4 layout and look (gonna use the NH-D14 and a 6870 CF too)








I will keep an eye upon the newer UP5 instead, if is no going to cost a fortune








Otherwise I'll have to either go for the Z77X-UD5H or find a better way to dissipate the X79-UD5's vrm


----------



## MarkMcPain

I researched the other z77 boards. They ALL have issues! it's just that the Gigabyte boards have more discussion on them. I'd like to see some sales figures. I wouldn't be surprised if Gigabyte was just very popular.

One good thing about all this discussion is if you do end up with a problem you are more likely to get help.

When people do research on these boards they just skim looking for keywords and base judgment off that. Read the post, Understand it, Read the responses and see how or if the issue was solved.

If I Iistened to what the internet said my computer shouldn't have booted and if it did the CPU would have melted.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Try F9E and turn off CPu PLL Overvoltage(disable it)


SIN0822, would value your advice here!
I've been doing a lot of experiments trying to discover why my UD5H with 2500K doesn't recover from sleep properly, and found something very interesting :
To remind you, the problem was that it would never awake by moving the mouse. It sometimes recovered OK by pressing the Power button, but even then, it always went through the "multiple reboot" sequence we all know. Most of the time, it did not recover properly.

After trying different BIOS and CPU PLL settings without much luck, I seemed to be able to fix the problem by changing my *POWER SUPPLY*!

- I always got the problem described when I used a OCZ ZS series 550W supply (quite new, an apparently "EuP ready")
- When I changed back to my old OCZ "Stealthstream" 400W supply, the problem seems to be gone. Now, the computer will wake from just the mouse (no need to press powet button), no repeated reboots.

Can you explain what might be happening? I can't understand why the older supply seems to be allowing the mouse to remain powered and lets the system wake OK.
I thought that the new power supply should be a better one.
Does the "EuP ready" have any relevance?
Should I return the OCZ ZS series 550W supply back to the vendor ? It seems to give the correct voltages (measured with a meter), but the UD5H seems to hate it!

Many thanks for your continued support.


----------



## EvgeniX

I do not know if its BIOS (f9 and f10 the same) but slots which in manual under number 1 and 2 in all testing software show up like like 3 and 4....

so if you look at manual and this picture:



by manual red = #1 but in in all testing software its #3....


----------



## barkeater

I'm not sure what you mean by testing software, but the slots are labeled as is described in the User Manual:



Starting furthest from the CPU and moving in, they are identified as slot 1, slot 3, slot 2, and slot 4.


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by testing software, but the slots are labeled as is described in the User Manual:
> 
> Starting furthest from the CPU and moving in, they are identified as slot 1, slot 3, slot 2, and slot 4.


yes,the 1st slot not working for me...i will ask friend to let me borrow his memory,so i can test with different memory,hope that problem is memory not cpu


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by testing software, but the slots are labeled as is described in the User Manual:
> 
> Starting furthest from the CPU and moving in, they are identified as slot 1, slot 3, slot 2, and slot 4.


by testing software I mean CPU-Z, AIDA64... all shows DDR_3 and DDR_4 as slot #1 and #2 and DDR_1 and DDR_2 as slot #3 and #4....


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Thanks, but I don't like the new UP4 layout and look (gonna use the NH-D14 and a 6870 CF too)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will keep an eye upon the newer UP5 instead, if is no going to cost a fortune
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I'll have to either go for the Z77X-UD5H or find a better way to dissipate the X79-UD5's vrm


You don't like the Z77X-UP4 or UP5? the X79S-UP5 might be a bit expensive b/c it uses s server chipset.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> so there is not many chances that my cpu memory controller bad?
> thing is,this memory worked for my Asus P8P67 Pro for more than year,and 1 slot stopped working after i did routine cleaning,so i thought is mobo and got GB UD5..
> well,i need to find somebody who have DDR3 memory then and try what you suggested
> will report ASAP as i do it
> THANKS Sin


so wait, the same issue happened on another board?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> SIN0822, would value your advice here!
> I've been doing a lot of experiments trying to discover why my UD5H with 2500K doesn't recover from sleep properly, and found something very interesting :
> To remind you, the problem was that it would never awake by moving the mouse. It sometimes recovered OK by pressing the Power button, but even then, it always went through the "multiple reboot" sequence we all know. Most of the time, it did not recover properly.
> After trying different BIOS and CPU PLL settings without much luck, I seemed to be able to fix the problem by changing my *POWER SUPPLY*!
> - I always got the problem described when I used a OCZ ZS series 550W supply (quite new, an apparently "EuP ready")
> - When I changed back to my old OCZ "Stealthstream" 400W supply, the problem seems to be gone. Now, the computer will wake from just the mouse (no need to press powet button), no repeated reboots.
> Can you explain what might be happening? I can't understand why the older supply seems to be allowing the mouse to remain powered and lets the system wake OK.
> I thought that the new power supply should be a better one.
> Does the "EuP ready" have any relevance?
> Should I return the OCZ ZS series 550W supply back to the vendor ? It seems to give the correct voltages (measured with a meter), but the UD5H seems to hate it!
> Many thanks for your continued support.


Well yes your PSu can have something to do with it, PSU supplies the standby power as well, however some PSUs might not have enough power on certain rails or might be missing the negative rail here and there. Your PSu could also be bad as most modern PSUs should have everything in order.

BTW OCZ makes terrible PSUs now, only back until like 2007 did they make anything good, like the OCZ 520W powerstream from 2005.

PC&P was also bought by OCZ, and now they are just as crappy. Corsair makes very good PSUs int he high end, antec in the low is good, some of the new brands that use good OEMs, like Sparkle uses Great Wall and they are great. Seasonic is always excellent as is ernmax.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Well yes your PSu can have something to do with it, PSU supplies the standby power as well, however some PSUs might not have enough power on certain rails or might be missing the negative rail here and there. Your PSu could also be bad as most modern PSUs should have everything in order.
> BTW OCZ makes terrible PSUs now, only back until like 2007 did they make anything good, like the OCZ 520W powerstream from 2005.
> PC&P was also bought by OCZ, and now they are just as crappy. Corsair makes very good PSUs int he high end, antec in the low is good, some of the new brands that use good OEMs, like Sparkle uses Great Wall and they are great. Seasonic is always excellent as is ernmax.


Thanks for the speedy advice ! That OCZ supply is going back tomorrow.
It's wasted a lot of my time, I think. The same supplier has Corsair; I might get one of those.

It's worth remembering that this seems to finally fix the sleep issue (for me at least), because I know that plenty of other people are still having similar problems with these boards. Maybe it might help someone else.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> Every new Beta bios have fixes (mostly) from previous Betas,you should know this,and my statement is right
> I read,it seems that you cant always get what others saying and replying in some kinda arrogant style
> Dont like what others saying - just ignore,if you dont read,doesnt mean others do the same


Don't quote me if you don't have anything valuable to say. You started talking to me first and I'm only replying to whatever 'Crap' you're putting in front. You quoting me and you want me to ignore it but others to read it? Are you seriously crazy? or just high?

Go preach somewhere else where the whole dam world can listen to you, just exclude me from it. Common decency and equal respect is required by everyone on online forums. The fact that you don't have any only shows how illiterate you are in life. I rest me case, now you surely will be ignored!

@Sin, do let me know if you find out anything on my issue.


----------



## Mr Frosty

My Z77-UD5H under phase




































Remember to insulate people...


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Don't quote me if you don't have anything valuable to say. You started talking to me first and I'm only replying to whatever 'Crap' you're putting in front. You quoting me and you want me to ignore it but others to read it? Are you seriously crazy? or just high?
> Go preach somewhere else where the whole dam world can listen to you, just exclude me from it. Common decency and equal respect is required by everyone on online forums. The fact that you don't have any only shows how illiterate you are in life. I rest me case, now you surely will be ignored!


oh dear...troll even here - first you tried to do this with Sin,now with me
1.you dont know me,so keep you opinion about how i am illiterate to yourself
2.you started this BS,and now you not happy for whatever reason?? you should read all your posts,maybe then you will get some clue what trash you talking
3.talking about respect - you wont be respected if you dont do this to others - so far i didnt see see any respect from you towards others (i dont care about myself - im to thick for such type like you)
4.you should not talk trash and crap here,its are serious forum,where people looking for advise and help - leave your personal life outside,nobody cares about it
5.rest in piece (and stop trolling)
From your posts i can say that you hardly more literate than me or others here,and through all 270 pages i saw only you talking crap here and accusing others of some sort "illiteracy" - i even have no clue what problem you have if you jumping on others and me?
The less such types like you,the better forums will be,but i guess every forum have they own trollboy
Again - rest in piece - ignored

SIN:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> so wait, the same issue happened on another board?


Yes,its happened with Asus P8P67 Pro,i was using all 4 slots for about 15 months,then one day 1 slot just stopped working
So,thats closer to being cpu bad i guess?


----------



## Caramuru

Guys, I've finished my first build ever! It has a UD5H mobo and I have some doubts.

1 - Shall I update to the latest firmware (F8)?

2 - Why do the CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) PC3-12800 (DDR3 1600) memories are shown as PC3-10700H (DDR3 1333)? XMP is enable and it's working well. But why the correct information isn't shown in programs like CPU-Z, GB Easy Tune 6 etc.?

System:

I5 3570K
GA-Z77X-UD5H
8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600
GTX 670 FTW
Corsair HX750


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> My Z77-UD5H under phase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember to insulate people...


Great going man, -38C is looking awesome

Can you tell us that how did you set up the SS, did you buy it from somewhere or did you make it yourself? and how much could you OC your processor till?


----------



## kesawi

Has anyone had any success getting SpeedFan to control the system fan headers on a Z77X-UD5H board? Only 3 PWM fans sensors appear under the SPEED tab in SpeedFan. Pwm1 and Pwm3 both seem to jointly control the CPU fan. Pwm2 seems to control the SYS_FAN1 header. My interpretation from the motherboard's user manual is that the SYS_FAN2 and SYSFAN3 headers are also controllable.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pushaz*
> 
> SIN:
> Yes,its happened with Asus P8P67 Pro,i was using all 4 slots for about 15 months,then one day 1 slot just stopped working
> So,thats closer to being cpu bad i guess?


Then something is wrong with your CPU, each slot has its own traces as well as some shared, perhaps your CPU is messed up.
Same thing on another board from another brand on another chip would equal CPu or memory, and since it is only 2 sticks, then it is the CPU.

Also people, let's not argue please.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caramuru*
> 
> Guys, I've finished my first build ever! It has a UD5H mobo and I have some doubts.
> 1 - Shall I update to the latest firmware (F8)?
> 2 - Why do the CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) PC3-12800 (DDR3 1600) memories are shown as PC3-10700H (DDR3 1333)? XMP is enable and it's working well. But why the correct information isn't shown in programs like CPU-Z, GB Easy Tune 6 etc.?
> System:
> I5 3570K
> GA-Z77X-UD5H
> 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600
> GTX 670 FTW
> Corsair HX750


1- if you have no problems then no!
2- in CPU-Z what is eh speed under DRAM Frequency? 667mhz or 800mhz?
You loaded XMP through 3D mode or advanced mode in the UEFI?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> Has anyone had any success getting SpeedFan to control the system fan headers on a Z77X-UD5H board? Only 3 PWM fans sensors appear under the SPEED tab in SpeedFan. Pwm1 and Pwm3 both seem to jointly control the CPU fan. Pwm2 seems to control the SYS_FAN1 header. My interpretation from the motherboard's user manual is that the SYS_FAN2 and SYSFAN3 headers are also controllable.


I haven't heard of someone getting it working properly, speedfan might be a bit outdated for the new BIOS and controller. Have you used easytune?


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I haven't heard of someone getting it working properly, speedfan might be a bit outdated for the new BIOS and controller. Have you used easytune?


I tried playing around with the fan controls in EasyTune 6 but couldn't figure out how to get it to do what I wanted and gave up due to lack of documentation. I also suspected it was causing a long delay to my login and stopped using it. I might have another play around with it and connect the fans back to the motherboard seeing as I need to open up the case to reseat my heatsink anyway.

ET6 doesn't seem to offer the advanced controls that Speedfan does, such as assigning multiple speed profiles to a fan based on different temperature sensors. It also seemed to use linear rather than curved response profiles. My aim is to keep the noise low with the fans ramping up only when critical, and have the system fans speed up when either the GPU or CPU temps rise. Asus' Fan Xpert looks like an awesome tool, and it would be great if Gigabyte had an equivalent.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I haven't heard of someone getting it working properly, speedfan might be a bit outdated for the new BIOS and controller. Have you used easytune?
> 
> 
> 
> I tried playing around with the fan controls in EasyTune 6 but couldn't figure out how to get it to do what I wanted and gave up due to lack of documentation. I also suspected it was causing a long delay to my login and stopped using it. I might have another play around with it and connect the fans back to the motherboard seeing as I need to open up the case to reseat my heatsink anyway.
> 
> ET6 doesn't seem to offer the advanced controls that Speedfan does, such as assigning multiple speed profiles to a fan based on different temperature sensors. It also seemed to use linear rather than curved response profiles. My aim is to keep the noise low with the fans ramping up only when critical, and have the system fans speed up when either the GPU or CPU temps rise. Asus' Fan Xpert looks like an awesome tool, and it would be great if Gigabyte had an equivalent.
Click to expand...

Did you try with their latest beta (4.47 Beta 2)?

http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

It seemed the X79 SMBus support was added within the latest stable 4.46

Why don't you shot them an email?


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Thanks, but I don't like the new UP4 layout and look (gonna use the NH-D14 and a 6870 CF too)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will keep an eye upon the newer UP5 instead, if is no going to cost a fortune
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I'll have to either go for the Z77X-UD5H or find a better way to dissipate the X79-UD5's vrm
> 
> 
> 
> You don't like the Z77X-UP4 or UP5? the X79S-UP5 might be a bit expensive b/c it uses s server chipset.
Click to expand...

No, I was talking about the X79-UP4
I love & like all UD5/UP5 versions, however I won't spend a fortune for one of them








Do you think the latest X79-UD5 bioses are mature enough for a 3820 oc, air cooled?
Do you think 2 big, top intake case fans (for the main vrm heatsink) and a (modded) vrm heatsink on the rear mosfet stripe of the X79-UD5 would be enough for a better vrm dissipation?









http://www.coolingtechnique.com/img/coolermaster/case/haf/HAF_XM_18.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/e17jz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/J2PML.png


----------



## Mr Frosty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Great going man, -38C is looking awesome
> Can you tell us that how did you set up the SS, did you buy it from somewhere or did you make it yourself? and how much could you OC your processor till?


That was with a very high ambient temp, it's at -42/43 now









It was 5ghz stable on water at 1.36v and now runs at 5.5Ghz 24/7 at 1.5v under load.


----------



## EvgeniX

*@Sin* any news on full support of Samsung 30mn DDR3 RAM for UD5H ???


----------



## barkinos98

does the color of the heatsinks match with the blue vengeance ram? im planning on black-blue-black-blue but i want it to look flush.


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Then something is wrong with your CPU, each slot has its own traces as well as some shared, perhaps your CPU is messed up.
> Same thing on another board from another brand on another chip would equal CPu or memory, and since it is only 2 sticks, then it is the CPU.


oh bugger...then its time to move to Ivy i guess,it will be pointless to go to Sandy again,even tho i liked Sandy very much..
i will check with different memory,just in case
Thanks Sin,thats exactly my though also that is cpu bad


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> That was with a very high ambient temp, it's at -42/43 now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was 5ghz stable on water at 1.36v and now runs at 5.5Ghz 24/7 at 1.5v under load.


Dam that's nice, including the water OC!


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> I tried playing around with the fan controls in EasyTune 6 but couldn't figure out how to get it to do what I wanted and gave up due to lack of documentation. I also suspected it was causing a long delay to my login and stopped using it. I might have another play around with it and connect the fans back to the motherboard seeing as I need to open up the case to reseat my heatsink anyway.
> ET6 doesn't seem to offer the advanced controls that Speedfan does, such as assigning multiple speed profiles to a fan based on different temperature sensors. It also seemed to use linear rather than curved response profiles. My aim is to keep the noise low with the fans ramping up only when critical, and have the system fans speed up when either the GPU or CPU temps rise. Asus' Fan Xpert looks like an awesome tool, and it would be great if Gigabyte had an equivalent.


Neither speedfan or ET6 is going to control your gpu fan. For that you need to use your gpu's control program like MSI Afterburner, Rivatuner or the like.

I have not tried speedfan with this mobo but when I used it for my previous build it worked great. However, it did take a while to figure out how to configure as it does not have the support of some of the other monitoring/fan control programs out there.

I have used ET6 and not sure how/why this is not meeting your needs. Assigning multiple speed profiles? I don't get that and like I said, I am very familiar with speedfan. You may need to look into getting yourself a fan controller which may better suite your needs.


----------



## Caramuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> 1- if you have no problems then no!
> 2- in CPU-Z what is eh speed under DRAM Frequency? 667mhz or 800mhz?
> You loaded XMP through 3D mode or advanced mode in the UEFI?


In CPU-Z it shows 800MHz. I loaded XMP through Advanced Mode.

But in CPU-Z the information under Max Bandwidth shows "PC3-10700H (667MHz)". Shouldn't it show "PC3-12800 (800MHz)"?

BTW, thanks for your help.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caramuru*
> 
> In CPU-Z it shows 800MHz. I loaded XMP through Advanced Mode.
> But in CPU-Z the information under Max Bandwidth shows "PC3-10700H (667MHz)". Shouldn't it show "PC3-12800 (800MHz)"?
> BTW, thanks for your help.


In CPU-Z if you look under the Memory tab, it will show you the actual settings your running. The "Max Bandwidth" info line under the SPD tab shows you what the manufacturer is indicating the max speed should be, or spec. Anything over that spec is considered OC'd ram. Purely for informative purposes. And sometimes, depending on the ram manufacturer, that info can be inaccurate or incomplete.


----------



## Caramuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> In CPU-Z if you look under the Memory tab, it will show you the actual settings your running. The "Max Bandwidth" info line under the SPD tab shows you what the manufacturer is indicating the max speed should be, or spec. Anything over that spec is considered OC'd ram. Purely for informative purposes. And sometimes, depending on the ram manufacturer, that info can be inaccurate or incomplete.


Hummm... I thought that the new Z77 chipset mobos with the new Ivy Bridge CPUs had natively support to DDR3 1600 memories. So I thought in programs like CPU-Z it'd show the correct information of the memories, in my case a pair of Corsair Vengeance Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B PC3-12800 (DDR3 1600).


----------



## anteater

Hi all,

I have a question. I have a UD3H. I was trying to shut down my computer last night after I re-arrange the dvd drive. It wouldn't shut down. I had to press the power button until it shut off. So I open the case and made sure all the wires are connected and not loose. I tried several times, it didn't work. So I tried system restore, etc. It was still not shutting down. I thought, oh great, I had to reinstall Win 7. I plugged in the mouse and keyboard under the network port, and none of them works in the Win7 setup screen.

By accident, I found out that if I plug in my D-Link wireless USB adapter in any of the center (of the back panel) USB 3.0 ports, my computer wouldn't shut down. I can still surf the internet and play BF3, that means the ports still work. If I put it in the lower ones, my computer would shut down.

Does anyone have experienced this?


----------



## Sin0822

the support they just don't at that speed at stock. As many memory modules aren't rated 1600mhz. intel is just a joke.

Don't worry if it says 800 that is 1600mhz if it says 667 that is 1333.


----------



## Caramuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> the support they just don't at that speed at stock. As many memory modules aren't rated 1600mhz. intel is just a joke.
> Don't worry if it says 800 that is 1600mhz if it says 667 that is 1333.


Thanks, man. As the new combo (Z77 + Ivy) supposely to natively support DRR3 1600 I thought I wouldn't have to enable XPM at BIOS to see the memories running properly. Well, it seems it's everything OK then.


----------



## Mr Frosty

Guys is the lasest Beta BIOS any better then the F5 that I'm running ATM?


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> Guys is the lasest Beta BIOS any better then the F5 that I'm running ATM?


cant say about others,but i am very happy with F10a,not a single problem since it was released


----------



## Protoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> does the color of the heatsinks match with the blue vengeance ram? im planning on black-blue-black-blue but i want it to look flush.


It's very close.


----------



## steve210

why is gigabyte always late with updating drivers and utility for their motherboard i just dont understand


----------



## NOCA

Will this club also cover the new Ultra Durable 5 motherboards, aka UP4 TH and UP5 TH?

For reference:
http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/312/images/model.html


----------



## steve210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOCA*
> 
> Will this club also cover the new Ultra Durable 5 motherboards, aka UP4 TH and UP5 TH?
> For reference:
> http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/312/images/model.html


aww wish i waited for thunderbolt to come out oh well i still like my ud3h anyway


----------



## Caramuru

Guys, I can't install the Lucid MVP. It seems I don't have the requirements to do that. Could someone help me?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caramuru*
> 
> Guys, I can't install the Lucid MVP. It seems I don't have the requirements to do that. Could someone help me?


Did you turn on integrated video in BIOS?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOCA*
> 
> Will this club also cover the new Ultra Durable 5 motherboards, aka UP4 TH and UP5 TH?
> For reference:
> http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/312/images/model.html


No i will make a separate club because there will be other issues. My retail ones come tomorrow, i will try and make it ASAP.


----------



## 2therock

Got my board back from RMA land today. Running Memtest one stick at a time now.
It came back with F8.

I wanted to check the serial number to see if they replaced or repaired but cannot find it. Was there a sticker?

It was a 18 day turnaround. I sent it ground from GA and it returned 3 day.

All I have connected is a USB mouse and keyboard, the optical drive and a VGA LCD monitor on the boards VGA port.

I'm not going to run overnight tests on each stick, sheesh!

EDIT, I ran all sticks twice alone and am now running all four together overnight and then some.

It feels nice to just stick 2133 sticks in there and run them instead of trying to clock up the Sammy green RAM.

Could be some Sammy Green in the classifieds soon.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> does the color of the heatsinks match with the blue vengeance ram? im planning on black-blue-black-blue but i want it to look flush.
> 
> 
> 
> It's very close.
Click to expand...

Nice system








Can you tell me what fans do you use (I like them on the D14 too)?

Got it









http://www.drako.it/drako_catalog/imagemagic.php?img=mdHTyNDiYWBhaZGlk5%2FOaZdfmtTZ&w=900&h=900

Btw, do you use the same case like the one in the pic above? What model is that?

PS
Answering myself, the one in the second pic is the Carbide 300R and yours is an Obsidian 550D
Nice case the Obsidian


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Got my board back from RMA land today. Running Memtest one stick at a time now.
> It came back with F8.
> I wanted to check the serial number to see if they replaced or repaired but cannot find it. Was there a sticker?
> It was a 18 day turnaround. I sent it ground from GA and it returned 3 day.
> All I have connected is a USB mouse and keyboard, the optical drive and a VGA LCD monitor on the boards VGA port.
> I'm not going to run overnight tests on each stick, sheesh!
> EDIT, I ran all sticks twice alone and am now running all four together overnight and then some.
> It feels nice to just stick 2133 sticks in there and run them instead of trying to clock up the Sammy green RAM.
> Could be some Sammy Green in the classifieds soon.


You're wondering if they repaired the board you sent or gave you a diffrent one? IDK, I didn't do anything to check mine I sent, I assumed they just put a new cpu socket in mine.....which by the way I've been running since I got it back. Looks like my turnaround time from Gigabyte was quicker than yours but UD5H was brand new then so I maybe I caught a slow time, lol.. About to fire up my other UD5H this morning in a brand new water cooled Switch build!

Yeah I dunno about the Samsung, it's good for the price, and I could run it at 1866 with no problems but I finally put the Trident 2400 back in, runs smooth with no problems at stock 2400 speeds.
For the new build I just went with Kingston HyperX 1600, Sin seems so high on Kingston, lol, I thought I would try it. I was hoping it would match the heat sinks (it doesn't). The heat sinks on the board are even different shades of blue from each other so I ended up with none of the blues any where near matching (UV blue sleeving). Still trying to get my 24 pin building/sleeving finished, though, I'm just gonna fire it up with the stock cable for now and bring UD5H #2 back to life again.

Lemme know how the repaired board works out for you.


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Neither speedfan or ET6 is going to control your gpu fan. For that you need to use your gpu's control program like MSI Afterburner, Rivatuner or the like.
> I have not tried speedfan with this mobo but when I used it for my previous build it worked great. However, it did take a while to figure out how to configure as it does not have the support of some of the other monitoring/fan control programs out there.
> I have used ET6 and not sure how/why this is not meeting your needs. Assigning multiple speed profiles? I don't get that and like I said, I am very familiar with speedfan. You may need to look into getting yourself a fan controller which may better suite your needs.


What I would like to happen is as the GPU temperature increases the system fans increase as well to compensate for the additional heat being generated within the case. Speedfan allows the system fans to be linked to the GPU temperature. I would also like the system fans to be linked to the CPU temperature for the same reason. With speedfan I can one set of fan response profiles based on the CPU temp and another completely different set of fan response profiles based on GPU temp (ie multiple speed profiles). My GPU fan speed I control separately with the GPU software.

I've played around with ET6 again and have the CPU fans running ok based on CPU temperature. The system fans are linked to the system temperature which doesn't seem to change much under load so the case fans aren't really going to increase when needed to shift more air for the GPU or CPU.

I've had a look at getting a fan controller but I don't have any bays left in my case and the headless ones all have problems of their own. I'll probably just stick with having the system fans run at a fixed speed from the PSU via a low noise adapter.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve210*
> 
> why is gigabyte always late with updating drivers and utility for their motherboard i just dont understand


What driver are you having issues with? What utility? Could you please be a little more specific?


----------



## fortizvi

Hi!

My experience:

I bought this motherboard also less than a month, the GA-Z77-D3h and i5-3450 with 2 x 4 GB Kingston Hyper to 1600Mhz, Geforce GTX460 OC, PCI sound card Xfi gamer fatality. At first I had the same problem! and I had thought that only happened to me! But after many freezes and testing ... works in the bios F14 leaving all values "default". Since yesterday I have not had a freeze. the BLCK is 100.1 if in order, therefore, understand that there is the problem. Honestly, I THINK the problem comes because of their "movements of voltages and frequencies." I hope that they get ANOTHER review to use this board to make "someday" OC.

Today:

I just changed the motherboard for other same, and all morning installing Windows 7 x64 after 3 hours, the machine has frozen me ... using the F14 Bios, default settings optimized, integrated graphics enabled, and also with the external graphics card. I have two screens connected, one in the integrated graphics card and one on the external graphics card gtx 460 using the system Luvid MVP. Could this be the problem of my freezing? since I have changed the microprocessor and 3550 and now I have the motherboard changed by the same GA-Z77-D3h. Also say, I've used the "stop" to check if it was so ... and half an hour after the suspension was reactivated when the PC is frozen. Now I disabled the C3 and C6, to see if it is also because of that ...

Thank you and to your expected


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You're wondering if they repaired the board you sent or gave you a diffrent one? IDK, I didn't do anything to check mine I sent, I assumed they just put a new cpu socket in mine....
> 
> Yeah I dunno about the Samsung, it's good for the price, and I could run it at 1866 with no problems but I finally put the Trident 2400 back in,
> Lemme know how the repaired board works out for you.


On the RAM = Yeh, looks like I'll make someone a deal on my Sammy Green soon.

On the CPU = possible socket mod, I found this article (be sure and read all the reader comments also) and the pic of the rear of the socket. On the back of my socket seems to have a Capacitor installed now. ??

Look at the pick they show, and the cellular pic of mine in the next to the bottom row. Too bad I did not notice mine before it shipped.


----------



## Caramuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> Did you turn on integrated video in BIOS?


I didn't!









That was the problem!!! In my last mobo it was turned on by default.

Another question: how much memory shall I allocate to integrated video? 64MB (default)? Or more?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> On the RAM = Yeh, looks like I'll make someone a deal on my Sammy Green soon.
> On the CPU = possible socket mod, I found this article (be sure and read all the reader comments also) and the pic of the rear of the socket. On the back of my socket seems to have a Capacitor installed now. ??
> Look at the pick they show, and the cellular pic of mine in the next to the bottom row. Too bad I did not notice mine before it shipped.


my CPU back looks the same.... so do you have any problems now with OC or new memory???


----------



## Sin0822

they all have one cap behind the socket. lol,

They should have flipped all 3 boards over and got a shot of the inside of each socket as well. And then got the number of output capacitors, and then their specs, which just don't know how to do.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fortizvi*
> 
> Hi!
> My experience:
> I bought this motherboard also less than a month, the GA-Z77-D3h and i5-3450 with 2 x 4 GB Kingston Hyper to 1600Mhz, Geforce GTX460 OC, PCI sound card Xfi gamer fatality. At first I had the same problem! and I had thought that only happened to me! But after many freezes and testing ... works in the bios F14 leaving all values "default". Since yesterday I have not had a freeze. the BLCK is 100.1 if in order, therefore, understand that there is the problem. Honestly, I THINK the problem comes because of their "movements of voltages and frequencies." I hope that they get ANOTHER review to use this board to make "someday" OC.
> Today:
> I just changed the motherboard for other same, and all morning installing Windows 7 x64 after 3 hours, the machine has frozen me ... using the F14 Bios, default settings optimized, integrated graphics enabled, and also with the external graphics card. I have two screens connected, one in the integrated graphics card and one on the external graphics card gtx 460 using the system Luvid MVP. Could this be the problem of my freezing? since I have changed the microprocessor and 3550 and now I have the motherboard changed by the same GA-Z77-D3h. Also say, I've used the "stop" to check if it was so ... and half an hour after the suspension was reactivated when the PC is frozen. Now I disabled the C3 and C6, to see if it is also because of that ...
> Thank you and to your expected


*your issue is your PCI sound card*. Take it out and see if the system still freezes. Thank you and good luck!!!!


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> my CPU back looks the same.... so do you have any problems now with OC or new memory???


So much for my amazing discovery eh?

Right now I am coming up slow and easy. I did 2hr Memtest86 passes on each stick of RAM and an 11hr pass on all of them together with no probs.
I then connected my RAID1 set of HDD's still containing my OS. It booted up fine and is rebuilding/mirroring via Intel's program right now. Perhaps because I connected one of the drives to another PC to retrieve files or it being reconnected.........??

After its rebuilt I'm gonna come off the boards VGA graphics to my Sapphire 3850 and run that a while.

I'm gonna do things one at a time running them awhile before each step and monitor my event viewer before and after each step. I don't even have the case USB and buttons connected yet.

I have attached an Event Viewer batch file (file extension renamed to .txt). Rename the files extension to .bat and run as admin. Its a list reset file for the event viewer. I use it to clear the list to start it from scratch to avoid clutter and confusion. You can save your current event viewers history 1st if you like.

When I sent the board off it was riddled with criticals, errors and warning events of many kinds.
So far there are Zero errors or warnings in the list.

After I get all the hardware connected and ran a while and see no issues I will clock it to 4.5.

Win 7 Viewer.txt 0k .txt file


----------



## EvgeniX

^ nice plan!

I still waiting for GB to fix Samsung RAM... so far at 1866


----------



## fortizvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> *your issue is your PCI sound card*. Take it out and see if the system still freezes. Thank you and good luck!!!!


Hello!
Sin0822 ... THINKING now, I remembered that today I had the new motherboard, I changed the option in ACTIVE ErP part of the BIOS Power Management. Could this be the problem of my freeze? Could it be that putting ErP provoke my sound card to a reduction of W and let it freeze to the card and therefore to the motherboard?

Note: I have much appreciation to my sound card! cost me € 200 in your day!
I'm working, when I get home I'll prove it!

I am your wait


----------



## blazed_1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> ^ nice plan!
> I still waiting for GB to fix Samsung RAM... so far at 1866


Whats wrong with your Sammys? Mine run just fine at 2133 in a UD3H.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blazed_1*
> 
> Whats wrong with your Sammys? Mine run just fine at 2133 in a UD3H.


4 stiks!!


----------



## blazed_1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> 4 stiks!!


4 sticks is always going to be harder to OC than 2. Have a look through this thread, lots of good info on the Sammys;
http://www.overclock.net/t/1210482/samsung-2x4gb-low-voltage-ddr3-1600-kit-ocing-to-2400-discussion/1020_20#post_17704849


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blazed_1*
> 
> 4 sticks is always going to be harder to OC than 2. Have a look through this thread, lots of good info on the Sammys;
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1210482/samsung-2x4gb-low-voltage-ddr3-1600-kit-ocing-to-2400-discussion/1020_20#post_17704849


all OC with 4 stick and 2133+ done NOT on GB boards....


----------



## Sin0822

well here is the deal the samsung green are the same exact sticks as the 8GB TridentX(which are double sided and rated 2400mhz or upwards of that) which can do 4DIMMs easily at 2133, there is just some odd issue in that there is no XMP and some settings most likley aren't being changed that should be changed. Not even 2 sticks can do 2400mhz on the GB Z77 boards, but most every other memory will OC just fine lol.


----------



## EvgeniX

I hope GB will fix it... it's just weird for me that other boards can get 2133 easily but NOT GB boards...


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> well here is the deal the samsung green are the same exact sticks as the 8GB TridentX(which are double sided and rated 2400mhz or upwards of that) which can do 4DIMMs easily at 2133, there is just some odd issue in that there is no XMP and some settings most likley aren't being changed that should be changed. Not even 2 sticks can do 2400mhz on the GB Z77 boards, but most every other memory will OC just fine lol.


not sure what this is based on ...


----------



## Sin0822

they use samsung 30nm, they just use more voltage. The double sided should be the same. They use the same IC, probably not the same same exact sticks, but basically the same.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> not sure what this is based on ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> they use samsung 30nm, they just use more voltage. The double sided should be the same. They use the same IC, probably not the same same exact sticks, but basically the same.


I think coolhandluke was referring to the way many Trident X use hynix & not samsung ICs.


----------



## 2therock

So far so good on the RMA return.

No BSOD's or boots. Still running her in.

If I am running a GPU shouldn't I disable the on-board graphics in the BIOS?
Also, still no wireless keyboard BIOS entry on my system. I tried all the ports and such. *** Yawn *** whatever Gigabyte.

FYI, my Sapphire 6850 was idling and mildly running @ 50°c. While the mobo was away I took a look under the hood and seen the thermal paste on the thing was in perfect form as if it were painted on using a stencil.
This told me it was either dried hard when assembled or it was not contacting very hard. I replaced it with Arctic Silver 5 and did a test assembly and when I pulled it apart it was mushed pretty good so I guess it was dried hard before the factory assembly.
I reapplied and She is idling @ 39°c now.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> I think coolhandluke was referring to the way many Trident X use hynix & not samsung ICs.


Yea the 2600mhz is samsung and the 2666 is hynix, many of them are hynix, i guess they are easier to clock up.
this is samsung: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231591
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> So far so good on the RMA return.
> No BSOD's or boots. Still running her in.
> If I am running a GPU shouldn't I disable the on-board graphics in the BIOS?
> Also, still no wireless keyboard BIOS entry on my system. I tried all the ports and such. *** Yawn *** whatever Gigabyte.
> FYI, my Sapphire 6850 was idling and mildly running @ 50°c. While the mobo was away I took a look under the hood and seen the thermal paste on the thing was in perfect form as if it were painted on using a stencil.
> This told me it was either dried hard when assembled or it was not contacting very hard. I replaced it with Arctic Silver 5 and did a test assembly and when I pulled it apart it was mushed pretty good so I guess it was dried hard before the factory assembly.
> I reapplied and She is idling @ 39°c now.


check in windows under device manager, if the iGPU is disabled then the Intel HD4000 shouldn't show up.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Check in windows under device manager, if the iGPU is disabled then the Intel HD4000 shouldn't show up.


Thanks, its not there. Before I installed the 6850 there was a windows update for the HD4000 and it went in without a hitch.


----------



## Sin0822

if it isn't there then it is probably asleep and not working. BTW you can try to install its drivers, if you cannot install them then it is disabled.

Also it makes no difference even in extreme OC whether or not you disable it or not, it disables by default i believe, unless you don't install a dGPU. I already had this discussion with GB as i didn't think it was disabling, it just is always disabled unless you don't use a dGPu or you enable it.


----------



## mandrix

Got both my UD5H boards up and running now under water, new build came up without a hitch as far as the motherboard itself. Both boards are running 3770K and F8 (final) BIOS. Set up an easy x45 overclock and everything seems fine.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Well yes your PSu can have something to do with it, PSU supplies the standby power as well, however some PSUs might not have enough power on certain rails or might be missing the negative rail here and there. Your PSu could also be bad as most modern PSUs should have everything in order.
> BTW OCZ makes terrible PSUs now, only back until like 2007 did they make anything good, like the OCZ 520W powerstream from 2005.
> PC&P was also bought by OCZ, and now they are just as crappy. Corsair makes very good PSUs int he high end, antec in the low is good, some of the new brands that use good OEMs, like Sparkle uses Great Wall and they are great. Seasonic is always excellent as is ernmax.


Hey Sin0822,

RMA'ed my troublesome power OCZ Power Supply, no problem - it's going back to meet it's maker.
Just installed a Seasonic X-660 Gold. It's very quiet and the voltages don't seem to vary whatever I throw at it. Sleep working OK too; very happy so far.
Thanks for the excellent recommendations.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Hey guys,

How would my board (z77x-D3H) run a pair of Crucial M4's in RAID 0? I'm getting a bit low on space and double the speed would be nice!


----------



## mandrix

I had my Samsung 128GB 830's in RAID and the read/write times per AS SSD were 885/545.
So if all you want is speed, you'll probably get it.
TRIM and garbage collection I don't know.


----------



## Mr Frosty

Guys what POST CODE 8 meen?

Get that in first boot up, is it because I'm on phase and it boots at -25c?

Maybe I should try setting it to boot at -15c


----------



## mortikaye

I was just wondering if anyone knew if the official F8 bios fixes the having to manually set the blk to avoid freezing?


----------



## protzman

has anyone put 4 680's on a sniper 3?

#needtofap


----------



## coolhandluke41

Sin when you will have UP5 TH review ? if the goods are there i may send my UD5H to the bench...


----------



## 2therock

So.......... I get the UD5H Bluetooth side of the card functioning and the driver for the WiFi Share side of the card shows up as not digitally signed or something like that.

I call Gigabyte tech support and we jump through all kinds of hoops and its a no go. The driver is there but it will not take.

Ugh!


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I had my Samsung 128GB 830's in RAID and the read/write times per AS SSD were 885/545.
> So if all you want is speed, you'll probably get it.
> TRIM and garbage collection I don't know.


That's pretty nice.. It's good to know!








I've actually decided against it, due to the cost. I just remembered that if I really start to run out of space i'll move BF3 off there!


----------



## ChrisB17

Damn just got a Random surge USB error.


----------



## neoprimal

Hey all, throwing in my 2c, or maybe $2 re: this board. It has been a real problem for me.

[Summary in case TLDR]: Does anyone happen to currently use Windows 8 on this board successfully or manage to run 100% stable using optimized defaults (full auto/stock bios settings?).

Here is what's going on with me. Sorry for the lack of brevity in my post. I'm a pretty detailed person and I wanted to get as much info out there in case there are questions re: the content itself.

I got this board very recently...yesterday actually. I have read many things, good and bad about the board. I got it for the simple reason that I didn't want to lock myself into a board that I wouldn't be able to upgrade a year or 2 down the line. So I got one capable of SLI and overclocking even though I have absolutely no interest in doing so right now. The other features are great too and the cost of the board didn't put it out on a limb vs. the non-sli version. I got the 3570K for the exact cost of the 2500K and only $6 more than the 3550 so, why not right? That was a no brainer. I was overwhelmed with board choices and ended up going to 5 of the most popular review sites and avging the board reviews. Most of them ended up recommending Asus/MSI and Gigabyte. The Asus is expensive, I wouldn't have gone there and the MSI was also $30 more for the same features available on the Gigabyte. Of all of them the Asrock Z77 Extreme4 was my second choice of well recommended board, but I decided not to get that because one reviewer stated it was missing some feature (Turbo Mode/Turbo Boost? I forget) and also I'm not familiar with Asrock. I'm kinda old school and back in the day it was all about Asus, Abit, Biostar, DFI, Gigabyte, Foxconn, MSI so on and so forth. My main 3 were always Abit, Asus and MSI. Anyway, suffice it to say the Z77x-UD3H and UD5H came highly recommended and I went with the wifil/bt-less 3H.

I haven't at all been as lucky as the reviewers of this board. I've been having steady problems with it since install. Suffice it to say, it's "the freezing problem" that you've probably either experienced yourself or have read about elsewhere is the main issue.

The saving grace has been that this happened so far, only consistently in Windows 8. I realize that pretty much none of the drivers are written for Windows 8 yet, but I figured that whatever Windows 8 (and MS) installed were good enough. The system doesn't stay up though and I have tried just about everything.

Tried a spinner (1TB 7200rpm Seagate)
Tried another PSU (Antec 600w)
Tried setting BCLK to 100.1
Tried disabling all CPU Power Features (EIST, C1E, C6/C5 state)
Tried removing AUTO from all Motherboard Power Features (like pwm etc. I set that all to standard/normal, whatever their alternative settings are)
Set vcore to 1.1

Nothing at all seemed to work.

System works fine for about 5m then it just slowly locks up. Works for longer if I'm not playing music. Seems to work fine while I'm playing a game. The lockup symptoms are skipping/repeating music at a certain point, then the mouseover text stays on the screen, then some buttons will become unresponsive. After a short while the mouse locks up as well and there's a beep. There's no offending/tell-tale code on the board and no event to speak of in the journal except the typical "system shut down unexpectedly".

By the next day, all my excitement had worn off and I'd gotten fed up so I decided to go to Windows 7 in the likely chance that it was a driver issue. (I know USB hardware and drivers can be a real pain and this stuff is sorta new)
The system has been stable now for some time so I have set some things back to default except for the base clock because when I do set that to auto, the bios itself freezes. Maybe I've gotten the settings customized just right? Who knows...I'm too scared to go try optimized defaults at this point.

In the back of my mind, I'd really like the auto/stock settings to work. I would especially like to set the VCORE back to Auto or some lower number, 1.1 feels like I may be pushing it unnecessarily. I've read about folks doing 4.x OCing with 1.1 and here I am at a measly 3.4-3.8. I'm frankly just scared of going back because the system as of right now hasn't crashed since. My temps are OK, not wonderful for IB. 40c idle, 45c playing D3. Initially though, before I moved VCORE up, I was rocking 30/35c idle, 40c max load. Right now the system seems to be floating between 1.080 and 1.092 VCORE...ironically going to 1.080 at full load and 1.092 when idle (I don't get that).

In any case, my questions to you are:

Is anyone currently running Windows 8 stable and what are your bios settings? I'm asking because I 100% prefer 8. I've been using it since day 1 of the consumer preview (I'm on release preview now, since day 1 of that) and 7 feels like a backward step. I know it's not but I've gotten used to a new way of doing things so I'd really rather be using it. It's also coming in 3 months and I want to be ready for it.
The Abit board I had does run Windows 8 stable, I'm sure it helps that it's an older board with no "native USB 3" or highfalutin features.

Is anyone running at the optimized defaults? (vcore set to auto, turbo boost set to auto/enabled, all cpu power saving enabled, all 3d power settings at auto). As I mentioned, I'd rather have everything set to stock/auto and have it work. I don't really need C1E enabled, but would like EIST switched on since I've seen errors in the event journal (on my Q6600) when it is off. I like my event journal, non eventful. Since it currently doesn't, that's telling me that either GB has provided a dirt BIOS or I'm doing something wrong....maybe a little of both? If it works for you and not for me then I know it's definitely me. If it doesn't work for you either then I figure GB has some splainin' to do.

If you're running a 100% tried and true stable system, could you please in detail post what settings you're currently using or email me your profile(s)? Any setting you've manually switched or whatever, I'd be open to hearing it and messing with mine in the same manner. Even if you're OCing, I would do that as well as long as I'm not running hot. I would rather OC at 1.1 VC than let it sit at stock settings. I'm just scared to go below for fear of the freezing to return.

My last board was an Abit IP35 Pro which still works like a champ. It has currently replaced my MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum and AMD as a bench/beta test PC along with my E2200 from my HTPC which was replaced by the Q6600 from my previous build. I feel sort of cheated in getting this nice $150 "reviewer recommended" board and not have stuff work properly right out of the box (not blaming the board, as I mentioned it might just be me). Are the days of having everything set to auto gone?

So my current, seemingly stable settings are:

BCLK = 100.1 (tried setting to auto and bios freezes)
Turbo Boost set to Auto
VCORE set to 1.1v
All the power stuff for the board changed from Auto to Balanced/Standard/Normal, whatever the setting is. Basically I don't want the bios attempting to do anything on-the-fly.

So far, so good in Windows 7.

Thanks for any and all help/advice you could possibly give.

*Note: I'm using the stock cooler because I couldn't find the 1155 bracket add-on that would make my Zalman 9700 work with it. It's listed on Newegg but for auto-notify, not even Zalman has it for sale so I may have to end up getting another cooler, though the stock one seems to be working fine (in terms of not letting the cpu blow itself up).


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> Hey all, throwing in my 2c, or maybe $2 re: this board. It has been a real problem for me.
> I got this board very recently...yesterday actually. I have read many things, good and bad about the board. I got it for the simple reason that I didn't want to lock myself into a board that I wouldn't be able to upgrade a year or 2 down the line. So I got one capable of SLI and overclocking even though I have absolutely no interest in doing so right now. The other features are great too and the cost of the board didn't put it out on a limb vs. the non-sli version. I got the 3570K for the exact cost of the 2500K and only $6 more than the 3550 so, why not right? That was a no brainer. I was overwhelmed with board choices and ended up going to 5 of the most popular review sites and avging the board reviews. Most of them ended up recommending Asus/MSI and Gigabyte. The Asus is expensive, I wouldn't have gone there and the MSI was also $30 more for the same features available on the Gigabyte. Of all of them the Asrock Z77 Extreme4 was my second choice of well recommended board, but I decided not to get that because one reviewer stated it was missing some feature (Turbo Mode/Turbo Boost? I forget) and also I'm not familiar with Asrock. I'm kinda old school and back in the day it was all about Asus, Abit, Biostar, DFI, Gigabyte, Foxconn, MSI so on and so forth. My main 3 were always Abit, Asus and MSI. Anyway, suffice it to say the Z77x-UD3H and UD5H came highly recommended and I went with the wifil/bt-less 3H.
> I haven't at all been as lucky as the reviewers of this board. I've been having steady problems with it since install. Suffice it to say, it's "the freezing problem" that you've probably either experienced yourself or have read about elsewhere is the main issue.
> The saving grace has been that this happened so far, only consistently in Windows 8. I realize that pretty much none of the drivers are written for Windows 8 yet, but I figured that whatever Windows 8 (and MS) installed were good enough. The system doesn't stay up though and I have tried just about everything.
> Tried a spinner (1TB 7200rpm Seagate)
> Tried another PSU (Antec 600w)
> Tried setting BCLK to 100.1
> Tried disabling all CPU Power Features (EIST, C1E, C6/C5 state)
> Tried removing AUTO from all Motherboard Power Features (like pwm etc. I set that all to standard/normal, whatever their alternative settings are)
> Set vcore to 1.1
> Nothing at all seemed to work.
> System works fine for about 5m then it just slowly locks up. Works for longer if I'm not playing music. Seems to work fine while I'm playing a game. The lockup symptoms are skipping/repeating music at a certain point, then the mouseover text stays on the screen, then some buttons will become unresponsive. After a short while the mouse locks up as well and there's a beep. There's no offending/tell-tale code on the board and no event to speak of in the journal except the typical "system shut down unexpectedly".
> By the next day, all my excitement had worn off and I'd gotten fed up so I decided to go to Windows 7 in the likely chance that it was a driver issue. (I know USB hardware and drivers can be a real pain and this stuff is sorta new)
> The system has been stable now for some time so I have set some things back to default except for the base clock because when I do set that to auto, the bios itself freezes. Maybe I've gotten the settings customized just right? Who knows...I'm too scared to go try optimized defaults at this point.
> In the back of my mind, I'd really like the auto/stock settings to work. I would especially like to set the VCORE back to Auto or some lower number, 1.1 feels like I may be pushing it unnecessarily. I've read about folks doing 4.x OCing with 1.1 and here I am at a measly 3.4-3.8. I'm frankly just scared of going back because the system as of right now hasn't crashed since. My temps are OK, not wonderful for IB. 40c idle, 45c playing D3. Initially though, before I moved VCORE up, I was rocking 30/35c idle, 40c max load. Right now the system seems to be floating between 1.080 and 1.092 VCORE...ironically going to 1.080 at full load and 1.092 when idle (I don't get that).
> In any case, my questions to you are:
> Is anyone currently running Windows 8 stable and what are your bios settings? I'm asking because I 100% prefer 8. I've been using it since day 1 of the consumer preview (I'm on release preview now, since day 1 of that) and 7 feels like a backward step. I know it's not but I've gotten used to a new way of doing things so I'd really rather be using it. It's also coming in 3 months and I want to be ready for it.
> The Abit board I had does run Windows 8 stable, I'm sure it helps that it's an older board with no "native USB 3" or highfalutin features.
> Is anyone running at the optimized defaults? (vcore set to auto, turbo boost set to auto/enabled, all cpu power saving enabled, all 3d power settings at auto). As I mentioned, I'd rather have everything set to stock/auto and have it work. I don't really need C1E enabled, but would like EIST switched on since I've seen errors in the event journal (on my Q6600) when it is off. I like my event journal, non eventful. Since it currently doesn't, that's telling me that either GB has provided a dirt BIOS or I'm doing something wrong....maybe a little of both? If it works for you and not for me then I know it's definitely me. If it doesn't work for you either then I figure GB has some splainin' to do.
> If you're running a 100% tried and true stable system, could you please in detail post what settings you're currently using or email me your profile(s)? Any setting you've manually switched or whatever, I'd be open to hearing it and messing with mine in the same manner. Even if you're OCing, I would do that as well as long as I'm not running hot. I would rather OC at 1.1 VC than let it sit at stock settings. I'm just scared to go below for fear of the freezing to return.
> My last board was an Abit IP35 Pro which still works like a champ. It has currently replaced my MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum and AMD as a bench/beta test PC along with my E2200 from my HTPC which was replaced by the Q6600 from my previous build. I feel sort of cheated in getting this nice $150 "reviewer recommended" board and not have stuff work properly right out of the box (not blaming the board, as I mentioned it might just be me). Are the days of having everything set to auto gone?
> So my current, seemingly stable settings are:
> BCLK = 100.1 (tried setting to auto and bios freezes)
> Turbo Boost set to Auto
> VCORE set to 1.1v
> All the power stuff for the board changed from Auto to Balanced/Standard/Normal, whatever the setting is. Basically I don't want the bios attempting to do anything on-the-fly.
> So far, so good in Windows 7.
> Thanks for any and all help/advice you could possibly give.
> *Note: I'm using the stock cooler because I couldn't find the 1155 bracket add-on that would make my Zalman 9700 work with it. It's listed on Newegg but for auto-notify, not even Zalman has it for sale so I may have to end up getting another cooler, though the stock one seems to be working fine (in terms of not letting the cpu blow itself up).


1.1v is such a mere amount, I wouldn't worry! My 3570k demands 1.185v stock... It can run that for up to 4.1GHz or so though.
As long as your temperatures are alright! I'm sure that sounds like a non-working Win 8 driver too, I'd try resetting it back to default settings, otherwise you should contact Gigabyte and explain the story. Ask them if Windows 8 is actually supported and if they plan to? (it should be).

As for the music being the cause, was it ever choppy/laggy? If you got that with game sounds too it'd be high DPC interrupt (i think that's what it is). Basically to fix it you'll want to reformat,
I'd suggest running a partitioned drive and putting Windows 7 on one partition and 8 on another. Use Windows 7 for a everyday OS, and then start to use Windows 8 more as it becomes more stable on your system.


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> Hey all, throwing in my 2c, or maybe $2 re: this board. It has been a real problem for me.
> [Summary in case TLDR]: Does anyone happen to currently use Windows 8 on this board successfully or manage to run 100% stable using optimized defaults (full auto/stock bios settings?).


I've been traveling for the past month so can't check my settings, but my UD5H on BIOS since at least F7 has been pretty stable for Windows 8 if I set optimized defaults and BCLK to 100.1 and disable C3/C6.

From what I read, Windows 8 is still having trouble with Z77s freezing, mostly when idle, mostly with a browser running (for me Google Chrome but I have seen the same in Firefox & IE). MS did an update recently that was supposed to fix it (they know this is a problem), but it apparently doesn't work for everyone. I haven't been home to check the latest beta BIOS with Windows 8 latest updates. Google - Windows 8 freezes - and you'll find a host of "solutions", some of which seem to work for some people (Hyper-V seems popular, but I decided not to try it since I was OK with my BIOS settings). I did try using Google Chrome Metro beta, which made no difference for me. (Freezes would come back when I went back to optimized settings, and then only when my browser was open and doing nothing. The the browser freezes but not the mouse, and little by little the rest freezes up.) I can live with tweaking my BIOS settings for stability (no problems with the settings given above) and don't really expect joy until the October release. Hey, it's a beta. ;-)

I haven't tried the following; I'd rather be patient. It does seem to be a pretty common problem, and not specifically a UD5H issue.
http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows8/broken-windows-8-release-preview-freeze-workaround-143550
http://rudiv.se/Blog/general/windows-8-release-preview-browser-freeze-fix
http://www.withinwindows.com/2012/06/28/workaround-for-windows-8-freezing-issues/

BTW I agree with you, I like the small changes from Windows 7 desktop.


----------



## mandrix

I can run either one of my UD5H rigs at 100% "Auto" settings I suppose, although both are overclocked to 4.5. I always run EIST, etc, on AUTO unless I'm trying for an overclock above 4.7'ish.
Actually my overclock settings are pretty simple for 4.5, and I've always manually set the block to 100.0 with no problems at all.

Do you have any add-in boards?
What BIOS version are you running?

I know zilch about Win 8, but per suggestion above I would just run dual boot for now if you can't get Win 8 stable.


----------



## neoprimal

Last night a bit after I wrote the post I bit the bullet and loaded op defaults. I am now also running at Auto - yay! All I turned off is C1E. I even have the BCLK set to Auto. I ran Sandra Burn-In for 1 hr and it was fine.

Boble, you have completely set my mind to rest re: Windows 8 because that's the EXACT issue I was having. Thanks very much for the links. I am going to do as Matt and Mandrix recommends, run Win 8 from another drive and dual boot. I never gave the OS a chance to get a Windows Update. It had issues the entire time from install, so with all the freezes and restarts it never had time to install updates before I put 7 on.
If MS knows about the problem, I'm confident that a proper fix will be made by the time it's released so there's no rush to use it as my driver I guess. I prefer the current stability anyway.

Matt, thanks! Though I have it set back to Auto now I'm glad that 1.1 wasn't as drastic as I thought it was. Maybe I should do some OCing, it seems pretty easy enough. The freezing was on Windows 8 and I believe it was due to what Boble mentioned, I generally always have my browser open. I didn't think at all that this could be the cause so I sort of blamed the music, since it was maybe 3 or 4 mins after I started it that it would freeze, but it was likely due to the browser, which is why I mention too that it would sometimes happen when the PC is idle.

Mandrix, the only add-in I have is my GTX560. I'm running Bios F11. Boble has posted links into pretty much exactly what the issue seems to be so I'm confident that it is Windows 8 to blame. The fact that I haven't seen any freezes on 7 seems to confirm that, thankfully.

Thanks all for the input and help!


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> Last night a bit after I wrote the post I bit the bullet and loaded op defaults. I am now also running at Auto - yay! All I turned off is C1E. I even have the BCLK set to Auto. I ran Sandra Burn-In for 1 hr and it was fine.
> Boble, you have completely set my mind to rest re: Windows 8 because that's the EXACT issue I was having. Thanks very much for the links. I am going to do as Matt and Mandrix recommends, run Win 8 from another drive and dual boot. I never gave the OS a chance to get a Windows Update. It had issues the entire time from install, so with all the freezes and restarts it never had time to install updates before I put 7 on.
> If MS knows about the problem, I'm confident that a proper fix will be made by the time it's released so there's no rush to use it as my driver I guess. I prefer the current stability anyway.
> Matt, thanks! Though I have it set back to Auto now I'm glad that 1.1 wasn't as drastic as I thought it was. Maybe I should do some OCing, it seems pretty easy enough. The freezing was on Windows 8 and I believe it was due to what Boble mentioned, I generally always have my browser open. I didn't think at all that this could be the cause so I sort of blamed the music, since it was maybe 3 or 4 mins after I started it that it would freeze, but it was likely due to the browser, which is why I mention too that it would sometimes happen when the PC is idle.
> Mandrix, the only add-in I have is my GTX560. I'm running Bios F11. Boble has posted links into pretty much exactly what the issue seems to be so I'm confident that it is Windows 8 to blame. The fact that I haven't seen any freezes on 7 seems to confirm that, thankfully.
> Thanks all for the input and help!


Glad to see that everyone could be of help!








Also don't forget you can give reputation for people that have helped you with your problem or good ideas.

- Just saying 'cause you're new, I didn't know what rep was for ages


----------



## graysky

Just assembled the machine in my profile. When I plugged it in and powered it on, all the fans start, the main BIOS light come on, but then it powers itself down after about 1 sec. It pauses for another sec or so and powers up again but only for 1-2 sec. This repeats and repeats.

No LED code and no beep codes from the speaker. I tried moving the memory around as well as changing the motherboard's battery. Tried clearing CMOS and also booting from backup BIOS.






Any suggestions? Note that I am trying to use the i7's on board video and do not have a video card in the machine. Monitor is connected via the onboard DVI.


----------



## mortikaye

I had exactly the same problem and I can't believe I'm going to admit this publicly, but I had my NH-D14 installed the wrong way around









Hey, it looked right at the time!

Hopefully you're nowhere near as inept as me and it's not that, but hey, may as well check.


----------



## graysky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mortikaye*
> 
> I had exactly the same problem and I can't believe I'm going to admit this publicly, but I had my NH-D14 installed the wrong way around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, it looked right at the time!
> Hopefully you're nowhere near as inept as me and it's not that, but hey, may as well check.


Thanks for the reply. I don't see how the orientation of the HS would affect the ability to POST. Here is a zoom out pic of mine.

http://s17.postimage.org/44hjzl85p/pic.jpg


----------



## mortikaye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *graysky*
> 
> I don't see how the orientation of the HS would affect the ability to POST???


I re-seated it and it booted straight up. I don't know what to tell you, it's my first build and I'm new to all this.


----------



## mortikaye

Yeah, looks the same as mine, so that's probably not the problem.

Sorry I couldn't help.


----------



## Mr Frosty

I hate this board, nothing but problems with memory showing faults in pretty much every DIMM slot but one....

Sending it back and getting an ASUS...


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> I hate this board, nothing but problems with memory showing faults in pretty much every DIMM slot but one....
> Sending it back and getting an ASUS...


..."lol? wut?.."..

EDIT;posted this @ TT
CPU-Z 1.61.3 shows wrong clock ,it also gives nice little latency spike


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> I hate this board, nothing but problems with memory showing faults in pretty much every DIMM slot but one....
> Sending it back and getting an ASUS...


probably something wrong with your board in particular, bye!!!!!!! Have fun with the asus lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ..."lol? wut?.."..
> EDIT;posted this @ TT
> CPU-Z 1.61.3 shows wrong clock ,it also gives nice little latency spike


Yea i saw that, i think something they are trying with CPU-Z is messed up, for now I just stick with the older versions.

Also users have issues with Windows 8, there is no support for Windows 8 BETA. Just make sure it is as recent as it cn be, as I am told the beta is much different than the final release.


----------



## 2therock

I found my failing to hold Sleep issue. It was my Logitech K350 keyboard. I had to go into device manager and disable the wake capability in the power management tabs.


----------



## Sin0822

what you mean?


----------



## neoprimal

New questions incoming:

Is there anything wrong with plugging the power into the board directly if I only have 1 video card? I plugged it in because the manual states that it should be done for power stability in the board when running SLI and the card does take 2 6pin plug ins (like older SLI).

Second thing. I'm terribly confused re: Virtu. Should I bother with it? Where do I plug my monitors...my discrete video or the onboard, should I decide to use it?

Thanks again.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> New questions incoming:
> Is there anything wrong with plugging the power into the board directly if I only have 1 video card? I plugged it in because the manual states that it should be done for power stability in the board when running SLI and the card does take 2 6pin plug ins (like older SLI).
> Second thing. I'm terribly confused re: Virtu. Should I bother with it? Where do I plug my monitors...my discrete video or the onboard, should I decide to use it?
> Thanks again.


I'd just plug it in anyway, it's got to be designed to run with it plugged in even if it's not using a graphics card, and I'd step away from virtu.. It's good when it works fine, but it's terrible to get working properly from what i've heard.


----------



## Cruxer

I am running an UD5H with F8, I have run into two issues, hope you can help me.

I.) My 3-pin fans are running at 100% even though I set all fans to voltage and set them to silent running in BIOS.
I also tried to use easyTune to have them run at 10% at 30°C and 100% at 80°C. The CPU fan is running at 300rpm, which is fine.
Sysfan 1 however reports no speed at all and Sysfan 2 and 3 report 1500 which is their maximum.
Any ideas?

II.) When I try to use an X-fi in my PCI Slot win7 reports that there are no ressources available (Code 12) and crashes with an IRQL_LESS_OR_EQUAL bsod.
When I removed the card and installed a TV-card into the last PCIe x16 slot things worked fine however.
Same when I reactivated the RealTek Audiochip. So ressources should be available plenty.
I have read comments from some people here with problems regarding the PCI slot, have any of you been able to resolve those?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> New questions incoming:
> 
> Is there anything wrong with plugging the power into the board directly if I only have 1 video card? I plugged it in because the manual states that it should be done for power stability in the board when running SLI and the card does take 2 6pin plug ins (like older SLI).
> 
> Second thing. I'm terribly confused re: Virtu. Should I bother with it? Where do I plug my monitors...my discrete video or the onboard, should I decide to use it?
> 
> Thanks again.


It can't hurt to provide extra power to the board. Just because there is a power plug going into the board there, doesn't mean that it'll draw power from there when it's not needed.

As to the second point, Virtu seems to benefit those with weaker video cards more so than those with stronger video cards. You haven't filled out your system specifications so I'm unsure as to where in that line you fall but I know that I max basically every game I throw at my Radeon HD 7970, so enabling Virtu just isn't worth it.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cruxer*
> 
> I am running an UD5H with F8, I have run into two issues, hope you can help me.
> I.) My 3-pin fans are running at 100% even though I set all fans to voltage and set them to silent running in BIOS.
> I also tried to use easyTune to have them run at 10% at 30°C and 100% at 80°C. The CPU fan is running at 300rpm, which is fine.
> Sysfan 1 however reports no speed at all and Sysfan 2 and 3 report 1500 which is their maximum.
> Any ideas?
> II.) When I try to use an X-fi in my PCI Slot win7 reports that there are no ressources available (Code 12) and crashes with an IRQL_LESS_OR_EQUAL bsod.
> When I removed the card and installed a TV-card into the last PCIe x16 slot things worked fine however.
> Same when I reactivated the RealTek Audiochip. So ressources should be available plenty.
> I have read comments from some people here with problems regarding the PCI slot, have any of you been able to resolve those?


Try the latest bios on the Gigabyte site, also try the latest drivers for the Audio card? Try running it as Admin too (the installer), you could also try running it in Vista compatibility mode if it's an older sound card.

If your memory is overclocked, or CPU.. Knock that back too, I get that driver IRQL less or whatever when i'm trying to run my memory too fast.


----------



## Cruxer

F8 is the latest BIOS on the GB site, tried the latest driver and I am giving admin rights when I am asked for that by win7.
I haven't overclocked anything yet.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cruxer*
> 
> F8 is the latest BIOS on the GB site, tried the latest driver and I am giving admin rights when I am asked for that by win7.
> I haven't overclocked anything yet.


Ouch, sounds like a compatibility error.. Tried the soundcard in another PC? Or another soundcard in your PC?


----------



## Cruxer

Yeah I had the card running on my Asus P5B in my previous PC which I swapped on Friday, so I think the card should be alright.
I dont have another card with official drivers which would run under win7 tbh.
Even the x-fi does not have offical drivers for win7 x64, I tried the vista drivers and some hacked drivers from the x-fi support pack which are maintained by a guy on the creative forums.
With regard to another soundcard, I am currently using the Realtek audio which is onboard, it works fine but just does not provide all the features the x-fi does. :/


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cruxer*
> 
> Yeah I had the card running on my Asus P5B in my previous PC which I swapped on Friday, so I think the card should be alright.
> I dont have another card with official drivers which would run under win7 tbh.
> Even the x-fi does not have offical drivers for win7 x64, I tried the vista drivers and some hacked drivers from the x-fi support pack which are maintained by a guy on the creative forums.
> With regard to another soundcard, I am currently using the Realtek audio which is onboard, it works fine but just does not provide all the features the x-fi does. :/


Hmm, have you tried installing it through device manager? That works for my "Non Compatible" printer/scanner with the Vista drivers.. =.=


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cruxer*
> 
> I am running an UD5H with F8, I have run into two issues, hope you can help me.
> I.) My 3-pin fans are running at 100% even though I set all fans to voltage and set them to silent running in BIOS.
> I also tried to use easyTune to have them run at 10% at 30°C and 100% at 80°C. The CPU fan is running at 300rpm, which is fine.
> Sysfan 1 however reports no speed at all and Sysfan 2 and 3 report 1500 which is their maximum.
> Any ideas?
> II.) When I try to use an X-fi in my PCI Slot win7 reports that there are no ressources available (Code 12) and crashes with an IRQL_LESS_OR_EQUAL bsod.
> When I removed the card and installed a TV-card into the last PCIe x16 slot things worked fine however.
> Same when I reactivated the RealTek Audiochip. So ressources should be available plenty.
> I have read comments from some people here with problems regarding the PCI slot, have any of you been able to resolve those?


Be aware that System Fan 4 header is 100% on all the time, only way to control it is get a fan that runs at speed you want or use a fan controller.
It's been quite a while since I have let the board control fan speeds, but I'm thinking I set the Sys Fans to PWM and picked one of the slopes that delivered about what I wanted for speeds. But I can be wrong, like I say I've used fan controllers for a while.

For your X-Fi I dunno, might check the IRQ and see if there's a conflict somehow, although offhand I can't imagine what. Creative is about the world's worst for drivers, I gave up on them long ago. I have 2 perfectly good Audigy 2ZS cards sitting in boxes and I just use the Realtek or use the Graphic card for HDMI sound output to my AVR.


----------



## Cruxer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Hmm, have you tried installing it through device manager? That works for my "Non Compatible" printer/scanner with the Vista drivers.. =.=


Yeah, that's what I tried to do, no avail
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Be aware that System Fan 4 header is 100% on all the time, only way to control it is get a fan that runs at speed you want or use a fan controller.
> It's been quite a while since I have let the board control fan speeds, but I'm thinking I set the Sys Fans to PWM and picked one of the slopes that delivered about what I wanted for speeds. But I can be wrong, like I say I've used fan controllers for a while.
> For your X-Fi I dunno, might check the IRQ and see if there's a conflict somehow, although offhand I can't imagine what. Creative is about the world's worst for drivers, I gave up on them long ago. I have 2 perfectly good Audigy 2ZS cards sitting in boxes and I just use the Realtek or use the Graphic card for HDMI sound output to my AVR.


I am using Sys_fan 1, 2 and 3. As the fans are 3 pin I cant use PWM and set it to voltage in bios.
Is there any other way than the slope to set fan speed?
Is there anyway to assign a dedicated IRQ in the bios?


----------



## neoprimal

aah! It never ends.

On Sun 7/22/2012 8:02:50 PM GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\072212-4524-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x7F1C0)
Bugcheck code: 0xF4 (0x3, 0xFFFFFA800EC2DB30, 0xFFFFFA800EC2DE10, 0xFFFFF8000319B510)
Error: CRITICAL_OBJECT_TERMINATION
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
Bug check description: This indicates that a process or thread crucial to system operation has unexpectedly exited or been terminated.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver which cannot be identified at this time.

On Sun 7/22/2012 8:02:50 PM GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\Windows\memory.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntkrnlmp.exe (nt!KeBugCheckEx+0x0)
Bugcheck code: 0xF4 (0x3, 0xFFFFFA800EC2DB30, 0xFFFFFA800EC2DE10, 0xFFFFF8000319B510)
Error: CRITICAL_OBJECT_TERMINATION
Bug check description: This indicates that a process or thread crucial to system operation has unexpectedly exited or been terminated.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver which cannot be identified at this time.

I updated to Windows 7 SP1 and now these are all I get. I had gotten them pretty much minutes apart between restarts.

I think I found the culprit though, I removed my 2 USB 3 hard drives and a hub from the USB ports on the back. I am no longer crashing. They were plugged into the Intel ports so I'm going to see if there's a driver update and try plugging them in again.

Oy Veh! I've gone from a PC that stays 24/7 weeks on end (restarting only for Windows Updates) to this. Please tell me everything will iron itself out sooner than later.

UPDATE:

Seems that it may have been my Logitech G19. After plugging everything back in and then putting the KB from the front USB to the VIA on the rear, Windows crashes. Suffice it to say, it doesn't look like this KB is going to work well on any of the VIA ports so I'll leave it in the front port till I put in a usb 2 bracket in the back which I'm assuming uses the Intel ports.


----------



## Sin0822

BTw Z77X-UP5-TH and Ultar durable 5 technical review: 




Up5 photoshoot is done, but i need to edit and post.


----------



## Spykerv

This may have already been posted, and made by Sin NO LESS.

But the club needs an update. Not only the Ultra Durable 4 class boards for z77.

No, now the arrival of the Ultra Durable 5 Ultra Power boards. New club revision Sin, Up4/5/7.

Bump if this has already been posted!

Btw, just watched all 29:19 minutes of it.

yup. Buying it this week once it releases.


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> aah! It never ends.
> On Sun 7/22/2012 8:02:50 PM GMT your computer crashed
> crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\072212-4524-01.dmp
> This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x7F1C0)
> Bugcheck code: 0xF4 (0x3, 0xFFFFFA800EC2DB30, 0xFFFFFA800EC2DE10, 0xFFFFF8000319B510)
> Error: CRITICAL_OBJECT_TERMINATION
> file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
> product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
> company: Microsoft Corporation
> description: NT Kernel & System
> Bug check description: This indicates that a process or thread crucial to system operation has unexpectedly exited or been terminated.
> This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
> The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver which cannot be identified at this time.
> On Sun 7/22/2012 8:02:50 PM GMT your computer crashed
> crash dump file: C:\Windows\memory.dmp
> This was probably caused by the following module: ntkrnlmp.exe (nt!KeBugCheckEx+0x0)
> Bugcheck code: 0xF4 (0x3, 0xFFFFFA800EC2DB30, 0xFFFFFA800EC2DE10, 0xFFFFF8000319B510)
> Error: CRITICAL_OBJECT_TERMINATION
> Bug check description: This indicates that a process or thread crucial to system operation has unexpectedly exited or been terminated.
> This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
> The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver which cannot be identified at this time.
> I updated to Windows 7 SP1 and now these are all I get. I had gotten them pretty much minutes apart between restarts.
> I think I found the culprit though, I removed my 2 USB 3 hard drives and a hub from the USB ports on the back. I am no longer crashing. They were plugged into the Intel ports so I'm going to see if there's a driver update and try plugging them in again.
> Oy Veh! I've gone from a PC that stays 24/7 weeks on end (restarting only for Windows Updates) to this. Please tell me everything will iron itself out sooner than later.
> UPDATE:
> Seems that it may have been my Logitech G19. After plugging everything back in and then putting the KB from the front USB to the VIA on the rear, Windows crashes. Suffice it to say, it doesn't look like this KB is going to work well on any of the VIA ports so I'll leave it in the front port till I put in a usb 2 bracket in the back which I'm assuming uses the Intel ports.


Sorry to hear about your misfortune, would you recommend the board after your problems? I mean Sin seems to recommend the z77 gigabyte boards everywhere and yet it looks like they have a lot of problems


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cruxer*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I tried to do, no avail
> I am using Sys_fan 1, 2 and 3. As the fans are 3 pin I cant use PWM and set it to voltage in bios.
> Is there any other way than the slope to set fan speed?
> Is there anyway to assign a dedicated IRQ in the bios?


I wasn't using PWM fans either. Why not just try all the options in the BIOS for fan control? The only PWM I was running was the fans on a NH-D14, all the rest were 3 pin. I'm pretty sure I was still using the PWM function, but I know I found some way to control the fans on the 1,2,3 headers from within BIOS. Not OPTIMALLY controlled, but some measure of control.
The thing is you try all the options available, and if it's not working like you want get a fan controller.







I'll be the first to say Gigabyte's fan controlling is not the best, is why I use controllers. I use a Scythe Kaze Master Pro on one rig, and in the process of wiring both a G Vanns FC9 & Lamptron FC8 on the other for the water cooling pump and fans. The Kaze Master Pro also has readouts for rpm so you don't need to plug into the board headers at all.


----------



## victor9847

hi! I'm new to this forum, and I have a question / problem that I really lose sleep, I start, I had saved money, and I decided to buy a computer, start with a good base and gradually add things, so I decided to buy Z77-ga d3h GB, the processor is a little short but to start walking as I settled is a G860, I get everything, and start to install, without any problems, install, boot and put my win7 32bit, and using the computer for a few days, I'm freezing the screen three times, having to reboot to be solved, after that install the win7 64bit sp1, but gives no failure looking at the ET6 see that the temperature is high http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...ttulo1rim.png/ PCH and I'm starting to get nervous, I am contacting pccom service. and I recommend that you install HWMonitor http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...nttulobco.png/ and always gives me a temperature of 18 ° C below, also check it in the bios (F6) http://imageshack .us/photo/my-images/528/dsc01921z.jpg / ET6 goes like, update the bios (f9) and dont move the temperatures. basically this is my problem, not to do, the plate is impeccable I arrived on June 20 and barely two days of use, I feel the billet, thank you very much for reading and I hope that is solution!
pd: no OC, sorry for my level of english


----------



## Lazlonius

I was about to buy the UDH5 for a build I am planning this weekend, then they come out with UP5 with thunderbolt ports.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128559


1) will I ever use thunderbolt?
2) Will I be able to buy an expansion card to place on the UD5H with thunderbolt ports or does it need a chip on the mainboard?
3) is this basically a newer UD5H upgraded with some fixes and added thunderbolt or an all new more buggy board.


----------



## Davo55

Hi all! I'm obviously new here and need the assistance of you Z77 pros. I've already searched this thread for my issues and haven't found any answers - maybe I'm not using the right search terms. In any event here are my components and my problems:

UD5H with F8, i5 3570k CPU (Stock), Samsung 830 SSD 256GB C: Drive, Sapphire HD5770 graphics, Corsair VX550W PSU and Windows 7 64bit (Clean Installation)

My 2 issues are that an "A0" Error-IDE Initialization is started" shows on the board after getting to Windows 7 and second; when in the bios, I am unable to use Q-Flash; the only button that responds is Exit. "Update Bios From Drive" will not respond. Actually, it did once when I went to F6 but after that it stopped working. So, now I have to use @BIOS.

In summary:

1) What have I done to kill my Q-Flash and can I fix it? (have I permanently corrupted my bios?)

2) What may be causing the "A0" error on the LEDs on my board? I tried unplugging everything but the mouse, keyboard and graphics card and I still get it.

Many thanks in advance to any who can help me!
David


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davo55*
> 
> 2) What may be causing the "A0" error on the LEDs on my board? I tried unplugging everything but the mouse, keyboard and graphics card and I still get it.


A0 means all is good man.


----------



## Sin0822

your drive in QFLASH has tobe formatted in FAT32, if it isn't then it wont go into the drive.

Also yes A0 is okay.

Yea I will make a new club sometime today.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Sorry to hear about your misfortune, would you recommend the board after your problems? I mean Sin seems to recommend the z77 gigabyte boards everywhere and yet it looks like they have a lot of problems


Ironically, I would if you don't want to spend over $150 for a good board. The benefits and advantages outweigh the issues as long as you know how and can work around the problems. This board is technically on par with boards that are $180+. So from a value perspective, I would recommend it with a warning. I have been running stable now since my last post. Every person is different and will have different results. Some people have probably never seen the board freeze because they have never happened to use the VIA ports. Some use keyboard and mice that do not affect/are not affected by the ports but then you have a few of us that stumble across the problems. I would not recommend the board if you want a _problem free build experience_. I think there are others out there that are not as finicky albeit that cost more money. Gigabyte obviously went with some really cheap solutions in order to offer this board below the pricing of equal competition, which is why I think it got so popular so quickly. My jaw literally fell when I saw all the features and then the price. Atheros and VIA however are not driver update friendly solutions, and that can be problematic in the short run. (I am now somewhat fearing how it will stand up to Windows 8). Lets face it though, rarely any build is problem free nowadays. These boards are so stuffed up with extras that some of them are working against each other, lol. They'll iron out eventually I think. It's a relatively new board. I'm sure a few Bios updates down the line it will be solid as a rock.

Since the VIA chipset is the main issue in this case, I can only assume that boards that are using all intel or alternative usb 3 chipsets are likely having a better time, but who really knows - the grass always looks greener on the other side from afar. I don't really know who is to blame for this problem. I can say that I have seen other users complain about their G19s freezing/rebooting their OS so it may not be only VIAs fault and thus not particularly Gigabytes fault either. I just wish they'd used something more solid than VIA. NEC or something else would have been better choices.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *victor9847*
> 
> hi! I'm new to this forum, and I have a question / problem that I really lose sleep, I start, I had saved money, and I decided to buy a computer, start with a good base and gradually add things, so I decided to buy Z77-ga d3h GB, the processor is a little short but to start walking as I settled is a G860, I get everything, and start to install, without any problems, install, boot and put my win7 32bit, and using the computer for a few days, I'm freezing the screen three times, having to reboot to be solved, after that install the win7 64bit sp1, but gives no failure looking at the ET6 see that the temperature is high http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...ttulo1rim.png/ PCH and I'm starting to get nervous, I am contacting pccom service. and I recommend that you install HWMonitor http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...nttulobco.png/ and always gives me a temperature of 18 ° C below, also check it in the bios (F6) http://imageshack .us/photo/my-images/528/dsc01921z.jpg / ET6 goes like, update the bios (f9) and dont move the temperatures. basically this is my problem, not to do, the plate is impeccable I arrived on June 20 and barely two days of use, I feel the billet, thank you very much for reading and I hope that is solution!
> pd: no OC, sorry for my level of english


I can't understand half of that, can you use your native language and maybe we can use a translator to figure it out.

From what I do get, it seems you are freezing and have to reboot to fix it. Your PCH temp is also high, am I correct?

Attempt to fix freezing by:

1. Remove all USB devices from their ports on the board. Use only the 2 ports that are under the LAN port for your keyboard and mouse.

2. Load OS defaults and set BLCK to 100.1

3. Disable EIST and C1E.

PCH is naturally high for this board. Most users see between 55c and 62c.


----------



## Davo55

THANKS! Sin and Kry!! Happy to find out that A0 is OK.

On the other issue, my thumb drive is always in FAT32, in fact I usually reformat the drive and just put the bios update on it.

Its just that even with the drive plugged in to a USB 2.0 or 3.0 port, Q-Flash does not respond when I try to click "Update BIOS from Drive" and instead only lets me click the EXIT button.

I guess I can always use @BIOS but I sure would like to know how to fix Q-Flash.

David


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> what you mean?


I guess you are talking to me?

I put my PC to sleep and it does so only to immediately come out of it. Call it a sleep loop out?

I start swapping components and testing until It will remain in sleep.
Once the (a) culprit is discovered I go to the component's (my Logitech K350 keyboard) place in device manager and choose properties/power management/ and un-tic the "Allow this device to Wake the computer".

This worked but after an hour it woke again. So a hunting we will go using a command prompt "powercfg -lastwake" and I found a USB\ROOT_HUB20\4&282DCF3F&0 to be waking her. Alas this baby has the "Allow this device to Wake the computer" shaded out and the option for windows to shut it down to save power selected. That is un-tic'd and we are testing.

I require the sleep mode because I want it to be off when not needed and the fans off add to the peace and quiet in the room.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all, throwing in my 2c, or maybe $2 re: this board. It has been a real problem for me.
> [Summary in case TLDR]: Does anyone happen to currently use Windows 8 on this board successfully or manage to run 100% stable using optimized defaults (full auto/stock bios settings?).
> Here is what's going on with me. Sorry for the lack of brevity in my post. I'm a pretty detailed person and I wanted to get as much info out there in case there are questions re: the content itself.
> I got this board very recently...yesterday actually. I have read many things, good and bad about the board. I got it for the simple reason that I didn't want to lock myself into a board that I wouldn't be able to upgrade a year or 2 down the line. So I got one capable of SLI and overclocking even though I have absolutely no interest in doing so right now. The other features are great too and the cost of the board didn't put it out on a limb vs. the non-sli version. I got the 3570K for the exact cost of the 2500K and only $6 more than the 3550 so, why not right? That was a no brainer. I was overwhelmed with board choices and ended up going to 5 of the most popular review sites and avging the board reviews. Most of them ended up recommending Asus/MSI and Gigabyte. The Asus is expensive, I wouldn't have gone there and the MSI was also $30 more for the same features available on the Gigabyte. Of all of them the Asrock Z77 Extreme4 was my second choice of well recommended board, but I decided not to get that because one reviewer stated it was missing some feature (Turbo Mode/Turbo Boost? I forget) and also I'm not familiar with Asrock. I'm kinda old school and back in the day it was all about Asus, Abit, Biostar, DFI, Gigabyte, Foxconn, MSI so on and so forth. My main 3 were always Abit, Asus and MSI. Anyway, suffice it to say the Z77x-UD3H and UD5H came highly recommended and I went with the wifil/bt-less 3H.
> I haven't at all been as lucky as the reviewers of this board. I've been having steady problems with it since install. Suffice it to say, it's "the freezing problem" that you've probably either experienced yourself or have read about elsewhere is the main issue.
> The saving grace has been that this happened so far, only consistently in Windows 8. I realize that pretty much none of the drivers are written for Windows 8 yet, but I figured that whatever Windows 8 (and MS) installed were good enough. The system doesn't stay up though and I have tried just about everything.
> Tried a spinner (1TB 7200rpm Seagate)
> Tried another PSU (Antec 600w)
> Tried setting BCLK to 100.1
> Tried disabling all CPU Power Features (EIST, C1E, C6/C5 state)
> Tried removing AUTO from all Motherboard Power Features (like pwm etc. I set that all to standard/normal, whatever their alternative settings are)
> Set vcore to 1.1
> Nothing at all seemed to work.
> System works fine for about 5m then it just slowly locks up. Works for longer if I'm not playing music. Seems to work fine while I'm playing a game. The lockup symptoms are skipping/repeating music at a certain point, then the mouseover text stays on the screen, then some buttons will become unresponsive. After a short while the mouse locks up as well and there's a beep. There's no offending/tell-tale code on the board and no event to speak of in the journal except the typical "system shut down unexpectedly".
> By the next day, all my excitement had worn off and I'd gotten fed up so I decided to go to Windows 7 in the likely chance that it was a driver issue. (I know USB hardware and drivers can be a real pain and this stuff is sorta new)
> The system has been stable now for some time so I have set some things back to default except for the base clock because when I do set that to auto, the bios itself freezes. Maybe I've gotten the settings customized just right? Who knows...I'm too scared to go try optimized defaults at this point.
> In the back of my mind, I'd really like the auto/stock settings to work. I would especially like to set the VCORE back to Auto or some lower number, 1.1 feels like I may be pushing it unnecessarily. I've read about folks doing 4.x OCing with 1.1 and here I am at a measly 3.4-3.8. I'm frankly just scared of going back because the system as of right now hasn't crashed since. My temps are OK, not wonderful for IB. 40c idle, 45c playing D3. Initially though, before I moved VCORE up, I was rocking 30/35c idle, 40c max load. Right now the system seems to be floating between 1.080 and 1.092 VCORE...ironically going to 1.080 at full load and 1.092 when idle (I don't get that).
> In any case, my questions to you are:
> Is anyone currently running Windows 8 stable and what are your bios settings? I'm asking because I 100% prefer 8. I've been using it since day 1 of the consumer preview (I'm on release preview now, since day 1 of that) and 7 feels like a backward step. I know it's not but I've gotten used to a new way of doing things so I'd really rather be using it. It's also coming in 3 months and I want to be ready for it.
> The Abit board I had does run Windows 8 stable, I'm sure it helps that it's an older board with no "native USB 3" or highfalutin features.
> Is anyone running at the optimized defaults? (vcore set to auto, turbo boost set to auto/enabled, all cpu power saving enabled, all 3d power settings at auto). As I mentioned, I'd rather have everything set to stock/auto and have it work. I don't really need C1E enabled, but would like EIST switched on since I've seen errors in the event journal (on my Q6600) when it is off. I like my event journal, non eventful. Since it currently doesn't, that's telling me that either GB has provided a dirt BIOS or I'm doing something wrong....maybe a little of both? If it works for you and not for me then I know it's definitely me. If it doesn't work for you either then I figure GB has some splainin' to do.
> If you're running a 100% tried and true stable system, could you please in detail post what settings you're currently using or email me your profile(s)? Any setting you've manually switched or whatever, I'd be open to hearing it and messing with mine in the same manner. Even if you're OCing, I would do that as well as long as I'm not running hot. I would rather OC at 1.1 VC than let it sit at stock settings. I'm just scared to go below for fear of the freezing to return.
> My last board was an Abit IP35 Pro which still works like a champ. It has currently replaced my MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum and AMD as a bench/beta test PC along with my E2200 from my HTPC which was replaced by the Q6600 from my previous build. I feel sort of cheated in getting this nice $150 "reviewer recommended" board and not have stuff work properly right out of the box (not blaming the board, as I mentioned it might just be me). Are the days of having everything set to auto gone?
> So my current, seemingly stable settings are:
> BCLK = 100.1 (tried setting to auto and bios freezes)
> Turbo Boost set to Auto
> VCORE set to 1.1v
> All the power stuff for the board changed from Auto to Balanced/Standard/Normal, whatever the setting is. Basically I don't want the bios attempting to do anything on-the-fly.
> So far, so good in Windows 7.
> Thanks for any and all help/advice you could possibly give.
> *Note: I'm using the stock cooler because I couldn't find the 1155 bracket add-on that would make my Zalman 9700 work with it. It's listed on Newegg but for auto-notify, not even Zalman has it for sale so I may have to end up getting another cooler, though the stock one seems to be working fine (in terms of not letting the cpu blow itself up).


I know that you have received a few replies and you have responded since posting this, however if you are still having stability issues I would recommend you first provide your system specs by using the "system builder" feature of this site so we can see what components you are using. Also, load MS Windows 7 to at least get your system stable and then work from there. Load latest official bios and set up optimized settings, save and exit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *graysky*
> 
> Just assembled the machine in my profile. When I plugged it in and powered it on, all the fans start, the main BIOS light come on, but then it powers itself down after about 1 sec. It pauses for another sec or so and powers up again but only for 1-2 sec. This repeats and repeats.
> No LED code and no beep codes from the speaker. I tried moving the memory around as well as changing the motherboard's battery. Tried clearing CMOS and also booting from backup BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions? Note that I am trying to use the i7's on board video and do not have a video card in the machine. Monitor is connected via the onboard DVI.


From the information you have provided, it appears you are not using a Gigabyte motherboard. I'd suggest re-posting this in the correct thread to get some better suggestions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> New questions incoming:
> Is there anything wrong with plugging the power into the board directly if I only have 1 video card? I plugged it in because the manual states that it should be done for power stability in the board when running SLI and the card does take 2 6pin plug ins (like older SLI).
> Second thing. I'm terribly confused re: Virtu. Should I bother with it? Where do I plug my monitors...my discrete video or the onboard, should I decide to use it?
> Thanks again.


Nothing wrong with plugging in the extra power but it is really only for folks running multiple GPU cards. You can load and/or enable Virtu if you want. Entirely up to you. Only you will be able to determine if it is something you will want/need. You plug your monitor into your dGPU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cruxer*
> 
> I am running an UD5H with F8, I have run into two issues, hope you can help me.
> I.) My 3-pin fans are running at 100% even though I set all fans to voltage and set them to silent running in BIOS.
> I also tried to use easyTune to have them run at 10% at 30°C and 100% at 80°C. The CPU fan is running at 300rpm, which is fine.
> Sysfan 1 however reports no speed at all and Sysfan 2 and 3 report 1500 which is their maximum.
> Any ideas?
> II.) When I try to use an X-fi in my PCI Slot win7 reports that there are no ressources available (Code 12) and crashes with an IRQL_LESS_OR_EQUAL bsod.
> When I removed the card and installed a TV-card into the last PCIe x16 slot things worked fine however.
> Same when I reactivated the RealTek Audiochip. So ressources should be available plenty.
> I have read comments from some people here with problems regarding the PCI slot, have any of you been able to resolve those?


Although others here have reported differently, the manual states that in order for you to be able to control system fans, you must use 4-pin pwm fans (Sys fan 1-3). Sys 4 is 100% and not controllable. Only the cpu fan can control a 3-pin fan via voltage control.

There have been others here reporting issues with using add-on cards like your X-FI. I would suggest just using the on-board audio until you are able to get your audio card issue resolved.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *victor9847*
> 
> hi! I'm new to this forum, and I have a question / problem that I really lose sleep, I start, I had saved money, and I decided to buy a computer, start with a good base and gradually add things, so I decided to buy Z77-ga d3h GB, the processor is a little short but to start walking as I settled is a G860, I get everything, and start to install, without any problems, install, boot and put my win7 32bit, and using the computer for a few days, I'm freezing the screen three times, having to reboot to be solved, after that install the win7 64bit sp1, but gives no failure looking at the ET6 see that the temperature is high http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...ttulo1rim.png/ PCH and I'm starting to get nervous, I am contacting pccom service. and I recommend that you install HWMonitor http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...nttulobco.png/ and always gives me a temperature of 18 ° C below, also check it in the bios (F6) http://imageshack .us/photo/my-images/528/dsc01921z.jpg / ET6 goes like, update the bios (f9) and dont move the temperatures. basically this is my problem, not to do, the plate is impeccable I arrived on June 20 and barely two days of use, I feel the billet, thank you very much for reading and I hope that is solution!
> pd: no OC, sorry for my level of english


My understanding is that the UD3H supports the i3, i5, and i7. Not sure if the board supports the G860. Try contacting Gigabyte Support as this may be your problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davo55*
> 
> Hi all! I'm obviously new here and need the assistance of you Z77 pros. I've already searched this thread for my issues and haven't found any answers - maybe I'm not using the right search terms. In any event here are my components and my problems:
> UD5H with F8, i5 3570k CPU (Stock), Samsung 830 SSD 256GB C: Drive, Sapphire HD5770 graphics, Corsair VX550W PSU and Windows 7 64bit (Clean Installation)
> My 2 issues are that an "A0" Error-IDE Initialization is started" shows on the board after getting to Windows 7 and second; when in the bios, I am unable to use Q-Flash; the only button that responds is Exit. "Update Bios From Drive" will not respond. Actually, it did once when I went to F6 but after that it stopped working. So, now I have to use @BIOS.
> In summary:
> 1) What have I done to kill my Q-Flash and can I fix it? (have I permanently corrupted my bios?)
> 2) What may be causing the "A0" error on the LEDs on my board? I tried unplugging everything but the mouse, keyboard and graphics card and I still get it.
> Many thanks in advance to any who can help me!
> David


As already stated, the A0 code indicates that you are all good. As for not being able to access any of the options in q-flash, I would suggest moving your switch to your backup bios and after restarting, go into bios. Once in the bios you can move the switch back to the primary and flash your new bios. If that doesn't work and you are not able to select the load bios from drive, it is because the bios cannot see your flash drive containing your bios file. As has already been suggested, make sure your flash drive is properly formatted and you have it plugged into one of the rear USB 3.0/2.0 Intel ports.


----------



## Sin0822

it might be your particular memory stick though.

BTW neoprimal, VIA ports aren't always the issue, for me and my devices they work the best.

If you are going to have freezes now then it is going to be because of device incompatibility, most of which is caused by some PCI sound cards. You are the first user with a USb device that has freezes LOL.

The UD3H with VIA is good, that VIA chip performs better than intel







GB also isn't the only one using the VIA hub, it is one of a kind, and other manufacturers can provide you 4 total ports on Intel, while GB is actually offering you 6-8 with the VIA hub as the VIA hub is extending the Intel performance. Windows 8 would be interesting to see what happens when a xHCI driver is native and thus your USb speeds shoot through the roof.
NEC was only thte first with USb 3.0, however their performance in comparison was not good at all compared to new generation USb 3.0 controllers. Then you have ASMedia which is own by ASUS, and thus you see asrock and asus use it, however its performance is average. Then you have EtronTech as well as Fintek i believe and VIA. out of all those VIA is by far the most known name as well as capable of developing new technology. I wouldn't put down the VLi hub or controller, the only other complaint i see is that of a surge on the USb hubs, which can be solved by turning off the notification, some other users reported devices dropping out, but i don't see those complaints anymore. Now that I said that I am sure some new users will register and try and correct me LOL, ill have a good laugh.

Also mate, there will always be issues with Intel Intel USB 3.0, why? Because it is intel, it is brand new and because they are releasing drivers for it slower than VLI is releasing drivers for their VLI800.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BTW neoprimal, VIA ports aren't always the issue, for me and my devices they work the best.
> If you are going to have freezes now then it is going to be because of device incompatibility, most of which is caused by some PCI sound cards. You are the first user with a USb device that has freezes LOL.
> The UD3H with VIA is good, that VIA chip performs better than intel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GB also isn't the only one using the VIA hub, it is one of a kind, and other manufacturers can provide you 4 total ports on Intel, while GB is actually offering you 6-8 with the VIA hub as the VIA hub is extending the Intel performance. Windows 8 would be interesting to see what happens when a xHCI driver is native and thus your USb speeds shoot through the roof.
> NEC was only thte first with USb 3.0, however their performance in comparison was not good at all compared to new generation USb 3.0 controllers. Then you have ASMedia which is own by ASUS, and thus you see asrock and asus use it, however its performance is average. Then you have EtronTech as well as Fintek i believe and VIA. out of all those VIA is by far the most known name as well as capable of developing new technology. I wouldn't put down the VLi hub or controller, the only other complaint i see is that of a surge on the USb hubs, which can be solved by turning off the notification, some other users reported devices dropping out, but i don't see those complaints anymore. Now that I said that I am sure some new users will register and try and correct me LOL, ill have a good laugh.
> Also mate, there will always be issues with Intel Intel USB 3.0, why? Because it is intel, it is brand new and because they are releasing drivers for it slower than VLI is releasing drivers for their VLI800.


I'm the first person that has identified it as an issue you mean. The majority of people complaining about these boards are inexplicably freezing, as I was. I was luckily able to identify it.

I bet you though, that you will find that the freezing folks are experiencing are in part to this usb 3 chip. You are completely right that it is hardware incompatibility.

Blame can't be focused on one party here, as I mentioned the G19 has given the same issues to other computers as well I've been reading online. Right now my USB hub is on the VIA port and it works fine (with G930, Rumblepad 2, Flash Drives, etc. in them) so I'm not declaring them terrible, I'm just saying that they are definitely finicky and it would do users justice to pay attention to exactly what they plug into them.
It's just the subtle differences between one tech and another I guess. The G19 works flawlessly in the intel ports as well as the nec usb 3 ports, just not the VIA ones and likewise worked without a fault in my Abit IP35 pro no matter what usb port I used (but that was all usb 2, so a different monster).

What do you have plugged into your VIA ports? I'm scared to plug my GoFlex drives into them, lol.

Barkeater,

I have 2 systems built on there. (I added them to my sig).
Also, I have Windows 7 installed and did all of that. My very last post has what caused the issues - plugging my G19 into any of the VIA ports causes the board to go haywire. There seems to be some incompatibility between the G19 and the VIA ports. Once plugged into the Intel ports it works fine. It's sad because I went through an awful lot of BIOS changes and an OS swap just to figure out that my USB ports were the culprit, lol. You live and learn though, and now I can help others who are seeing their Windows freeze for no apparent reason.


----------



## barkeater

I wonder if it is because the G19 has the two USB ports on it that cause the VIA hub to freak out. Glad you were able to get it diagnosed and have a decent workaround (i.e., using Intel USB rear port).

I found that if I plug a Logitech flightstick into any of the rear usb ports that I would loose my mouse movement in the bios. Also found an easy workaround but just stuff that one has to deal with.


----------



## Davo55

Quote:


> As already stated, the A0 code indicates that you are all good. As for not being able to access any of the options in q-flash, I would suggest moving your switch to your backup bios and after restarting, go into bios. Once in the bios you can move the switch back to the primary and flash your new bios. If that doesn't work and you are not able to select the load bios from drive, it is because the bios cannot see your flash drive containing your bios file. As has already been suggested, make sure your flash drive is properly formatted and you have it plugged into one of the rear USB 3.0/2.0 Intel ports.


THANKS, Barkeater!!

I was using the USB port on the front and when I tried the port on the back; Q-Flash works now.

All Good, Thanks

David


----------



## victor9847

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> My understanding is that the UD3H supports the i3, i5, and i7. Not sure if the board supports the G860. Try contacting Gigabyte Support as this may be your problem.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> I can't understand half of that, can you use your native language and maybe we can use a translator to figure it out.
> From what I do get, it seems you are freezing and have to reboot to fix it. Your PCH temp is also high, am I correct?
> Attempt to fix freezing by:
> 1. Remove all USB devices from their ports on the board. Use only the 2 ports that are under the LAN port for your keyboard and mouse.
> 2. Load OS defaults and set BLCK to 100.1
> 3. Disable EIST and C1E.
> PCH is naturally high for this board. Most users see between 55c and 62c.


sorry, i used the translate of google,







so i tell you with my own words:
hi! I´m new in this forum, and i have a problem, i bougth the new ga z77x-d3h, with a g860 processor ( the mb supports this) i instal the win7 32bit, and when i used the computer for a few days, the tv had frozen, for solve this i had to reset the computer, this thing happend for 3 times, more later i put the win7 sp1 64bits, i dont have error, but when i saw the temperature of the pch in the et6 i saw 64ºC







http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...ttulo1rim.png/
i instal the hwmonitor and saw another temperature http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...nttulobco.png/ and always i see a temperature 18º minus than the et6, i see the bios (version f6) and put the same in et6, http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/528/dsc01921z.jpg/ i update the bios to f9 but the temp. was the same, this is miy problem, the tempetarure of my pch, sorry for my level of english, wath is the range of temp work of the pch? and why the et6 and the hwmonitor is diferent, no OC, thanks!!! very good forum!!!!!!!


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BTw Z77X-UP5-TH and Ultar durable 5 technical review:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up5 photoshoot is done, but i need to edit and post.


Removed


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *victor9847*
> 
> sorry, i used the translate of google,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i tell you with my own words:
> hi! I´m new in this forum, and i have a problem, i bougth the new ga z77x-d3h, with a g860 processor ( the mb supports this) i instal the win7 32bit, and when i used the computer for a few days, the tv had frozen, for solve this i had to reset the computer, this thing happend for 3 times, more later i put the win7 sp1 64bits, i dont have error, but when i saw the temperature of the pch in the et6 i saw 64ºC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...ttulo1rim.png/
> i instal the hwmonitor and saw another temperature http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...nttulobco.png/ and always i see a temperature 18º minus than the et6, i see the bios (version f6) and put the same in et6, http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/528/dsc01921z.jpg/ i update the bios to f9 but the temp. was the same, this is miy problem, the tempetarure of my pch, sorry for my level of english, wath is the range of temp work of the pch? and why the et6 and the hwmonitor is diferent, no OC, thanks!!! very good forum!!!!!!!


PCH of 65 degrees C is not an issue. See link:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/2090#post_17490632

Why some programs report one temperature and others report another is anyone's guess. I trust Realtemp for monitoring the temperature of the cpu. I don't think it is anything to worry about though.

As to why your computer is freezing seems to be the more serious issue. I would suggest filling in your system specifications in order for others to be able to help you better.


----------



## neoprimal

I just did some more testing. I really don't know how you're doing it Sin0822.

I am on the newest VIA driver I can find, 1.90a.
As far as USB modes in the BIOS go, I just went through and tried them all, Smart Auto, Auto and Enabled and in every mode Windows 7 HP SP1 crashes with a 0xF4 error at some point unless I'm not using any of the VIA ports for my keyboard or GoFlex Desk storage.

In every mode except Enabled, the crash occurs within 10 minutes so it's very predictable. When I have the setting at Enabled the crash is way more random. The last crash I had I literally saw the sound icon get an X and VIA Audio was no longer there, neither were my hubs or hard drives. It just seems as if the VIA ports are "dropping out" if that makes sense, and this ends up BSODing W7.

Could you please tell me your Bios settings for USB and what you have plugged into your VIA ports please?

Thanks.


----------



## victor9847

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> As to why your computer is freezing seems to be the more serious issue. I would suggest filling in your system specifications in order for others to be able to help you better.


thanks for the information








my computer:
z77x-d3h
g840
club3d gt220
Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600 PC3-12800 4GB
Cooler Master Elite Power 500W
its little because i dont have a lot of money and i prefer buy step to step


----------



## 2therock

Looks like my sleep issue is resolved. The issue was from not entering sleep to not staying in sleep. Waking was no problem.
Using two methods of tracking the culprits,

1.) Event viewer\ Windows Logs\ Right clicking on System & choosing "Filter Current Log, then scrolling the Event Sources box to Power-troubleshooter and chosing OK.
2.) In an opened as admistrator command prompt entering, powercfg -lastwake.

My Logitech K350 wireless keyboard would not allow it to enter sleep.
After disabling it from waking the computer from sleep in device manager I could then enter sleep but it would wake at random.

Next I found a USB Root Hub when I ran the powercfg -lastwake command. I have 5 in my device managers list. I disabled their option for allowing the computer to turn them off to save power. What the heck they were going to be in sleep anyways.

Next in the event viewer filter I found my on-board Intel NIC to be waking it. There are two options in the NIC's properties under power saver options, 1.) Respond to ARP requests and 2. Respond to NS requests without waking the system were both unchecked. After selecting them I have not had any unwanted wakes from sleep since.

Whew!


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazlonius*
> 
> 2) Will I be able to buy an expansion card to place on the UD5H with thunderbolt ports or does it need a chip on the mainboard?


This is a question I too would like to see an answer. Can the PCI express 3 bandwidth be used by future "Thunderbolt expansion cards"?
Especially if one is using the integrated graphics only, or just one discrete GPU card...
As for TB, it looks like USB when it first came out: people were asking themselves "will I need it?" and now it USB all over the mobos.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Thanks for the time you took for writing such a long post, Sin. I hope I won't be deemed ungrateful if I still reply to it. Let me start from the end: the thread is evolving and slowly some of the issue are being exposed and, hopefully, solved.

PCI incompatibility seems a common source of problems. I ask, is this related to the 100.10 MHz fix? If it is (or at least could be) is (one of) the clock(s) of these boards sligtly off in hardware and at GB they are trying to place a patch in the BIOS? I mean is it possible to fix a problem of this kind in the bios or a patch here could cause a PCI instability there?

USB3 seems another (trans-manufacturer) plague. I am confident these problem will be ironed out by future releases of the drivers. Am I too optimistic?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> No GB and ASUS currently use the same supplier, but that has little to nothing to do with the need for extra capacitors. If you look inside the socket there are high frequency capacitors in there, the point is the put them as close to the CPU as possible, so you start inside the socket and then to the back, however there is an optimum amount to balance out everything. Saying that capacitors are missing in the back must have been written by a new ASUS hire who has no knowledge of electrical engineering, probably some media asus hired recently, as that is what they have started to do(take people who used to review motherboards and quit, and offer them jobs in marketing).


Yep, that's the point: they're there to be very close to the cpu. Since there is a limited amount of real estate either they're there or they are not there at all.
Quote:


> GB and other manufacturers do their best to minimize variation in the PCB so they can use the same PCB for two or more boards. That means that some of the layout considerations in terms of the MLCCs (the ceramic capacitors) are different board to board.


Ok, so they draw tracks and pads and leave them empty if the caps are not needed. I can understand that.
As a matter of fact, in your latest review of the UP5, I can see a very similar if not the same layout under the socket. But here's why I was skeptical of the 'explanations' given so far of why the UD5H has no MLCC under there (ok, only one):

The reasoning I could read on webpages (and forums) thus far were like:
1) our superior design (speedy VRM) and thicker copper (low ohmic losses) make those MLCC unnecessary (-->_authority principle_: I tell you it is so, you better believe me)
2)those capacitors are simply not needed (which is almost on the same line as above, since it is based on the assumption that GB engineers couldn't have made a mistake)

*Please note:* I am not stating that the above statements are not true, only that they are not really explanations and that is why FUD can still propagate. If I were in Gigabyte I wouldn't have issued such a short statement, but I would have produced a more consistent documentation as to why there is no need for caps under the UD5H. They wouldn't have divulged any secret, I believe: competitors have the resources and ability to do reverse engineering.

As you wrote:
Quote:


> There are many reasons that capacitor count varies on different boards, that is because almost all boards vary in what MOSFETs, Inductors, capacitors, as well as settings and transient controls they use.


This is logical, but still not 'proof'. I hope you see my point: IMBO, GB shouldn't have fought FUD (rock) with faith (scissors).
More so, by stating that the MLCC are not there because they use a state of the art VRM and thicker copper rises the question: "so why did you have to put them under the UP5 [*]? Shouldn't that be a speedy VRM too? Shouldn't the ohmic losses be low there, too?"

As you can see, I am pointing out an error in communication, more or less like Asrock's bent board picture. Gigabyte should have used paper  to fight rock, ...I mean FUD. I'd really love to see the schematics of the relevant power stages of the ud5h and the up5. That would show why the newest state of the art design needs those capacitor in that same exact position of the PCB, and why the UD5H does not.
Do you think such an information could be accessed?
Quote:


> I treat all of you equally, no one differently, however since i made this thread I have seen a HUGE influx of new users


The board looks great and it's a rip-off for the money. I have an empty case waiting right next to me, but I am afraid I could buy a board that won't be stable if I try to reduce the voltage on the CPU to save power between mild overclockings (the object of my first post) or would refuse to go to sleep. I have an environmental friendly attitude, you see, but the "buy it, try it out and see for yourself" suggestion is a bit too much for my tight budget.

If someone with the UD5H has managed to read so far, I would really appreciate if you could experiment how much you can lower the CPU voltage (possibly of an Ivy bridge processor, a 3570K would be ideal) with stock multiplier and still have the system stable. Something on the line of http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge
Quote:


> I just want to let people know issues reported in this thread doesn't mean everyone will have them.


Right, but don't you think this board (or this generation of boards - from other manufacturers too) are having a hard time getting rock stable?

[*] By looking at the video you posted on youtube I believe I have spotted several capacitors under the cpu socket of the UP5. Am I mistaken? Picture quality is what it is, and now the video is no longer online.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Removed


I made a new one lol 




Sorry, the other was 30mins, this is 20 and more to the point, and i got a whiteboard, i figured id start teaching people how the boards work. Towards the end you'll see the white board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> I just did some more testing. I really don't know how you're doing it Sin0822.
> I am on the newest VIA driver I can find, 1.90a.
> As far as USB modes in the BIOS go, I just went through and tried them all, Smart Auto, Auto and Enabled and in every mode Windows 7 HP SP1 crashes with a 0xF4 error at some point unless I'm not using any of the VIA ports for my keyboard or GoFlex Desk storage.
> In every mode except Enabled, the crash occurs within 10 minutes so it's very predictable. When I have the setting at Enabled the crash is way more random. The last crash I had I literally saw the sound icon get an X and VIA Audio was no longer there, neither were my hubs or hard drives. It just seems as if the VIA ports are "dropping out" if that makes sense, and this ends up BSODing W7.
> Could you please tell me your Bios settings for USB and what you have plugged into your VIA ports please?
> Thanks.


Hey i need to correct you on something, your board doesn't use a VIA HUB, it uses a 4-port VIA controller. The UD5H and the G1.Sniper 3 both use the HUBs, however the UD3H uses a 4-port controller. The smart auto/auto thing has nothing to do with it. There is no driver for the hub even.

Also the remaining issues with BSOD and odd freezing have to do with PCI devices or 1394A devices which are not fully compatible, this is currently being investigated by GB and is a issue,however since not all PCI devices will cause it, only some sound cards like Audigy 2ZS and Xonar, as well as a audio production device, they are trying to find a fix for it.

IMO you shoudl contact GTS, perhaps your controller is messed up or defective. BTW it is a controller *Not* a HUB on the UD3H. They can reproduce it and say if they have the same issue on your side.

My VIA ports have gone through all my USB devices, from a bunch fo gaming keyboards, K8100 from GB, thermaltakes G-Unit, random dell keyboard, to gaming mice like the GB M8000X and wireless microsoft mouse, as well as my phone, my webcam, an external SSD drive, my flashcard reader, and even my printer. None of them caused me to BSOD.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> This is a question I too would like to see an answer. Can the PCI express 3 bandwidth be used by future "Thunderbolt expansion cards"?
> Especially if one is using the integrated graphics only, or just one discrete GPU card...
> As for TB, it looks like USB when it first came out: people were asking themselves "will I need it?" and now it USB all over the mobos.


Well currently the thunderbolt controllers don't use PCi-E gen3 lanes, because those only come from the CPU's PCi-E controller, and it only has 16 lanes, no one would buy a board in which their GPU only got 12x lanes lol. So manufacturers use the PCI-E 2.0 lanes from the Z77 PCH, the PCh has 8 PCi-E 2.0 lanes, and 4 of them are provided to the TB controller. However If there ever was a card, then you would have to plug it into the last slot(4X), and on the UD5h that would be PCi-E 3.0 if your CPu is PCi-E 3.0, and on the UD3H it woudl always be 2.0 b/c the last slots 4x comes from the PCH not the CPU.

Thunderbolt expansion cards would be expensive, for instance on the Up5, the thunderbolt uses this many ICs for these purposes:
The controller itself has its own BIOS ROM
It also has a single phase VRM, however the VRM has two chokes and 4-5 MOSFETs as well as a bunch of caps.
There is a HDMI switch to switch HDMI signals into the controller
Then you have a 4-bit bus switch to deal with high bandwidth data switching and hot docking of TB devices.
For the two port all of the following are in pairs because you need one per port.
There are a total of two Display Port 2:1 multiplexers which take the DP output from the PCH and take it to the TB controller/ports
There are a total of two 3.3v to 18v multiplexers to provide high voltage to the cord which needs to be powered.

That is a lot of hardware, to put on a small card. I honestly think manufacturers are a bit scared about how people will take to TB. That is why you only see a few boards with it to test the waters.


----------



## mandrix

Never mind.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I made a new one lol
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, the other was 30mins, this is 20 and more to the point, and i got a whiteboard, i figured id start teaching people how the boards work. Towards the end you'll see the white board.
> Hey i need to correct you on something, your board doesn't use a VIA HUB, it uses a 4-port VIA controller. The UD5H and the G1.Sniper 3 both use the HUBs, however the UD3H uses a 4-port controller. The smart auto/auto thing has nothing to do with it. There is no driver for the hub even.
> Also the remaining issues with BSOD and odd freezing have to do with PCI devices or 1394A devices which are not fully compatible, this is currently being investigated by GB and is a issue,however since not all PCI devices will cause it, only some sound cards like Audigy 2ZS and Xonar, as well as a audio production device, they are trying to find a fix for it.
> IMO you shoudl contact GTS, perhaps your controller is messed up or defective. BTW it is a controller *Not* a HUB on the UD3H. They can reproduce it and say if they have the same issue on your side.
> My VIA ports have gone through all my USB devices, from a bunch fo gaming keyboards, K8100 from GB, thermaltakes G-Unit, random dell keyboard, to gaming mice like the GB M8000X and wireless microsoft mouse, as well as my phone, my webcam, an external SSD drive, my flashcard reader, and even my printer. None of them caused me to BSOD.


I think you misunderstood me there. I wasn't referring to the VIA ports as a hub, I was saying that the only thing I have attached to the VIA port that actually works are MY external USB 2.0 hubs. Any other device I put on any of them lead up to a BSOD, eventually. I have no other devices in my PC at the moment except for my video card and the same things happen when I remove it and just use onboard so I know that it isn't any sort of internal conflict from the slots. If I do any sort of RMA I'm just going to get something else at this point. I don't trust that they're going to fix anything because I've read about other people doing RMAs and getting the same board back. It's a great board in theory but there's something very wrong with the actual product it seems and now I'm wondering if that's why it's going for so much cheaper than the competition.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> Thanks for the time you took
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> for writing such a long post, Sin. I hope I won't be deemed ungrateful if I still reply to it. Let me start from the end: the thread is evolving and slowly some of the issue are being exposed and, hopefully, solved.
> PCI incompatibility seems a common source of problems. I ask, is this related to the 100.10 MHz fix? If it is (or at least could be) is (one of) the clock(s) of these boards sligtly off in hardware and at GB they are trying to place a patch in the BIOS? I mean is it possible to fix a problem of this kind in the bios or a patch here could cause a PCI instability there?
> USB3 seems another (trans-manufacturer) plague. I am confident these problem will be ironed out by future releases of the drivers. Am I too optimistic?
> Yep, that's the point: they're there to be very close to the cpu. Since there is a limited amount of real estate either they're there or they are not there at all.
> Ok, so they draw tracks and pads and leave them empty if the caps are not needed. I can understand that.
> As a matter of fact, in your latest review of the UP5, I can see a very similar if not the same layout under the socket. But here's why I was skeptical of the 'explanations' given so far of why the UD5H has no MLCC under there (ok, only one):
> The reasoning I could read on webpages (and forums) thus far were like:
> 1) our superior design (speedy VRM) and thicker copper (low ohmic losses) make those MLCC unnecessary (-->_authority principle_: I tell you it is so, you better believe me)
> 2)those capacitors are simply not needed (which is almost on the same line as above, since it is based on the assumption that GB engineers couldn't have made a mistake)
> *Please note:* I am not stating that the above statements are not true, only that they are not really explanations and that is why FUD can still propagate. If I were in Gigabyte I wouldn't have issued such a short statement, but I would have produced a more consistent documentation as to why there is no need for caps under the UD5H. They wouldn't have divulged any secret, I believe: competitors have the resources and ability to do reverse engineering.
> As you wrote:
> This is logical, but still not 'proof'. I hope you see my point: IMBO, GB shouldn't have fought FUD (rock) with faith (scissors).
> More so, by stating that the MLCC are not there because they use a state of the art VRM and thicker copper rises the question: "so why did you have to put them under the UP5 [*]? Shouldn't that be a speedy VRM too? Shouldn't the ohmic losses be low there, too?"
> As you can see, I am pointing out an error in communication, more or less like Asrock's bent board picture. Gigabyte should have used paper  to fight rock, ...I mean FUD. I'd really love to see the schematics of the relevant power stages of the ud5h and the up5. That would show why the newest state of the art design needs those capacitor in that same exact position of the PCB, and why the UD5H does not.
> Do you think such an information could be accessed?
> The board looks great and it's a rip-off for the money. I have an empty case waiting right next to me, but I am afraid I could buy a board that won't be stable if I try to reduce the voltage on the CPU to save power between mild overclockings (the object of my first post) or would refuse to go to sleep. I have an environmental friendly attitude, you see, but the "buy it, try it out and see for yourself" suggestion is a bit too much for my tight budget.
> If someone with the UD5H has managed to read so far, I would really appreciate if you could experiment how much you can lower the CPU voltage (possibly of an Ivy bridge processor, a 3570K would be ideal) with stock multiplier and still have the system stable. Something on the line of http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge
> Right, but don't you think this board (or this generation of boards - from other manufacturers too) are having a hard time getting rock stable?
> [*] By looking at the video you posted on youtube I believe I have spotted several capacitors under the cpu socket of the UP5. Am I mistaken? Picture quality is what it is, and now the video is no longer online
> 
> 
> .


Those capacitors never change position. They are always located under the motherboard after you have filled them up above the board inside the socket, then you go on the back and fill them up.
THere are many boards which don't use all the capacitor banks filled up. If you went into a VRm and replaced all the capacitors used with capacitors with lower ESR for instance, do you know what would happen? The ripple would increase even though lower ESR dictates lower ripple. Do you know why? Because the chokes/inductors and capacitors have a symbiotic relationship, and you only use what is needed and calculated to fit. I bet if you added MLCC into the slots where you can solder them, the VRm wouldn't work, i bet you it would **** up the VRm and you would notice it in the voltage regulation.

I really have no idea why you are so set on arguing it, you must really not understand, the attack is bull****, no where is it written how GIGABYTE should make their motherboards, infact they are the sole Tier 1 motherboard manufacturer who still has its own factories, they even spend a premium and are one of the only manufacturers who has their top boards made in TW and not in China. Maybe you didn't know that.

Where do you see people complaining about BSODs? No where will you see anything like that unless they user is using a PCi device or like the guy a few posts above has an issue with a USb device.

I think GIGABYTE doesn't care about the attack that much because it was sent out to their vendors and not the media, ASUS however got a site or two to write an article about it, however that is only part of the document, ASUS wrote like a presentation comparing their boards to GIGABYTE to send to vendors like newegg. ASUS is pulling out all the tricks, for instance did you knwo t-toplogy is part of intel design spec? Not some asus creation. ASUS going to all time lows is a new thing.

here are possibilities why ASUS did what they did, that is if you are interested and not trolling, the latter seems more possible at this point.

Did you know that ASUS doesn't make their own motherboards? Earlier this year pegatron, who owns ASRock made the majority of ASUS motherboards, however apple since moved some of its contracts to pegatron, and asus sold its 30% stake in pegatron, and now needs ECS or foxconn to manufacturer their boards.

If you didn't notice recently ASUS just dropped their prices on their major Z77 models down to exactly match GIGABYTE's prices. Do you know what that means? It means ASUS couldn't sell any boards at their prices, and major retailers like newegg and others stopped purchasing them, on top of that ASUS had 1 million Z68 boards in backstock at Z77 launch.

They had to do two things, first they lowered their prices to normal levels, which GB was already at.
Then they had to get vendors to question GIGABYTE.

However here is the deal, when is the last time you ever saw GIGABYTE pull crap like this? Did you ever think they are at a point where they are focusing on their own product development and improving their quality? Did you know for the first time in a year and a half a ROG board doesn't have the best VRM quality for a series? The first time that ASUS didn't use updated components on the extreme version in comparison to the gene? Did you see GIGABYTE ever promote intel technology as if they discovered it?

When i was in TW, GB's engineers told me, listen we work on these board to improve OC compatibility, however we implement technologies, however as you requested we will not advertise them, because we prefer to beat our competitor not with marketing but with real performance. That is one reason GB's marketing isn't so technical, because they go at things differently and i really respect that. ASUS doesn't have good morals as a company they want to get to the top even if their product isn't the best, and there are many ways to do that. ASRock is taking lessons from asus and it is sad, like hiding D-PAK MOSFETs under huge heatsinks on a $150 MB, $150 MB don't usually have heatsinks like that, but I guess the heatsinks are cheaper than the MOSFETs. lol. GIGABYTE could easily point out how over inflated ASUS's pricing is, or how asus doesn't use 2oz copper PCB.

What do you want GB to say? You want GB to show you schematics of their motherboards? you are kidding yourself? When is the last time you ever saw a trace diagram of a motherboard? never? The way manufacturers draw their traces and work the PCB is very secret. You will get no response out of GB b/c there is no problem.

However i think you should get the ASUS board, because you will always doubt the GB board no matter what. ASUS has gotten into your brain, and laid its eggs. lol.

i feel like I just seriously wasted 10 minutes of my life trying to figure out how to heck to respond to something i have gone over with you over and over. What bugs me is that i feel like you just show up once a week to post in here and ask about this, that is like what Raja does.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> I think you misunderstood me there. I wasn't referring to the VIA ports as a hub, I was saying that the only thing I have attached to the VIA port that actually works are MY external USB 2.0 hubs. Any other device I put on any of them lead up to a BSOD, eventually. I have no other devices in my PC at the moment except for my video card and the same things happen when I remove it and just use onboard so I know that it isn't any sort of internal conflict from the slots. If I do any sort of RMA I'm just going to get something else at this point. I don't trust that they're going to fix anything because I've read about other people doing RMAs and getting the same board back. It's a great board in theory but there's something very wrong with the actual product it seems and now I'm wondering if that's why it's going for so much cheaper than the competition.


Well i honestly think your board is defective, as if it was jut one device that made it do it then it would be that device, but if its all the other devices then it would be defective. IDk what to tell you, but you didn't stumble onto some fix for the BSOD issue,first of all where do you see the BSOD issue anymore anyways? if you do, can you please show me? Also, if you do find one, are you sure they aren't using a PCi device? because the last 5 i can actually count them that came in here and complained of it(maybe a handful int he past month and a hafl), all had PCi devices, and some didn't post back, and others got angry their PCi device made it BSOD lol.

It is either a defective board or a specific device issue. however VLI is not some crap company, FYI VLI is owned by VIA. Most of teh technologies in your current motherboard you have VIA to thank for as Intel absorbed a lot of them. Also NEC's USB 3.0 controllers aren't good, that is why no one uses them anymore. They were extremely widespread with P55 and X58 b/c they were the only option.


----------



## Rondik

It been a while since I visited this thread, can't believe 283 pages wow =)

I just wanted to say my build has been going great thanks Sin and everyone else for any info and help earlier on when I had some questions, it has been 3 months, and not one issue at all (knock on wood my luck LOL ), still on F6 Bios, have not upgraded figured why mess with something that is working.

This system has been rock solid stable, not one bluescreen,and have been playing every single game I throw at it with max spec. I am definitely happy I went with Gigabyte =)

Also forgot to mention about a month ago I picked up the Corsair 1300 Analog Headset and I was afraid that the UD5H onboard sound would not be good enough, well I am happy to say the onboard sound is amazing along with the creatve software directional sound is amazing with most of my games.


----------



## EvgeniX

interesting if GIGABYTE will make BIOS update some day with CPU temperature on POST code screen? Sin?


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Well i honestly think your board is defective, as if it was jut one device that made it do it then it would be that device, but if its all the other devices then it would be defective. IDk what to tell you, but you didn't stumble onto some fix for the BSOD issue,first of all where do you see the BSOD issue anymore anyways? if you do, can you please show me? Also, if you do find one, are you sure they aren't using a PCi device? because the last 5 i can actually count them that came in here and complained of it(maybe a handful int he past month and a hafl), all had PCi devices, and some didn't post back, and others got angry their PCi device made it BSOD lol.
> It is either a defective board or a specific device issue. however VLI is not some crap company, FYI VLI is owned by VIA. Most of teh technologies in your current motherboard you have VIA to thank for as Intel absorbed a lot of them. Also NEC's USB 3.0 controllers aren't good, that is why no one uses them anymore. They were extremely widespread with P55 and X58 b/c they were the only option.


As I mentioned the only PCI card I have is my video card which is PCI-E 2. I use the VIA on board sound and there are no other PCI cards plugged in.

The BSOD happens if I plug the G19 keyboard or any external hard drive into any of the VIA USB 3.0 ports.

If I plug my G19 into the top VIA ports (under the PS2 hybrid port) then I get BSODs.
If I put it into the VIA ports beside the LAN, I get BSODs.
If I plug any of my external hard drives into these ports, same thing, BSODs.
Always, always a 0xF4 crash.

If I put it into the Intel port (under the LAN), it works.
If I put it on USB 2.0 (front of my case, attached to internal header), it works fine.
Likewise, my USB 3.0 GoFlex Desk drives are also currently working only on the Intel USB 3.0 ports.

This essentially leaves me with only 2 usable USB 3.0 ports.

As a last ditch effort maybe I'll write GB Tech support and see if they have a fresh BIOS I can try out. I see F12H on TT but I'm reading where folks are saying that it is a nightmare.

So I'm the only one (of about 5, you say) in this forum with the UD3H having this problem? Other folks are using their VIA ports ok? If yes, could you guys post what BIOS you're using and how your USB is set up please? (Smart Auto/Auto/Enable). I'm curious. Just a quick example of what devices you have on them will do. Here are a few pages you asked for with people having similar issues. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. 1-4 are the actual ud3h and 5-6 are the variants but with the same or similar problem.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Where do you see people complaining about BSODs? No where will you see anything like that unless they user is using a PCi device or like the guy a few posts above has an issue with a USb device.


Did you read the first part of my post? Where I say the thread is unfolding and most issue are hopefully being ironed out and I pointed out that the issues seemed to be PCI incompatibility and USB driver immaturity?
Quote:


> I think GIGABYTE doesn't care about the attack that much because it was sent out to their vendors and not the media


I was under the impression that a website reachable from google was part the 'the media'.
Quote:


> ASUS however ...
> ASUS wrote...
> ASUS is pulling out all the tricks...
> ASUS going to all time lows...
> Did you know that ASUS...
> If you didn't notice recently ASUS...
> It means ASUS...
> on top of that ASUS...
> The first time that ASUS...
> ASUS doesn't have...
> ASUS's pricing...
> asus doesn't use...


And then...
Quote:


> ASUS has gotten into your brain, and laid its eggs. lol.


Seriously? ASUS has gotten into _my_ brain?
Quote:


> However i think you should get the ASUS board


I *never* said I wanted to buy an Asus board. I never owned an Asus mobo, and never used any Asus mobo (or GPU, or DVD, or notebook, or netbook, or tablet) in any PC I've built for relatives or friends. Only Gigabyte and MSI (the latter one because I was tight on budget). Also, in my previous post I also wrote the I found Asus overhyped their alleged 'power saving features' since the power consumption of their Z77P8 was way higher than Gigabyte's UD5H, according to all comparative reviews I had read. And I'll tell you more: I believe their mobos are overpriced and they charge their customers just for the sake of their brand.

Now, should I slain some Asus representative, possibly torturing him and making him suffer for a very long time to prove you I couldn't care less about Asus, their mobos, their marketing and their tricks?
Seriously man, I am sorry you took it this way. Perhaps my English is not even half as good as I had thought and I have expressed myself in an ambiguous way. I really appreciate the time you spent in answering my (and all the other people's) questions. The point I was trying to make is this though: I have a scientific mindset that prevents me from accepting statements on the sole basis of faith. In the same way I do not accept by faith the FUD about the missing capacitors, I do not accept by faith explanations based on the principle of authority. I thought I had expressed that concept clearly but evidently it is not so.
Fanboys accepts explanations based on the faith they bestow on their beloved brand. People who try to think critically (sorry for my English) need rational explanations based on facts. It appears that such explanations are not possible because the schematics are top secret and all one can say is "trust the almighty Gigabyte (or Asus, or Asrock, or MSI or Foxconn, or...) engineers. They cannot possibly be wrong, ever!"
Quote:


> What do you want GB to say? You want GB to show you schematics of their motherboards? you are kidding yourself? When is the last time you ever saw a trace diagram of a motherboard? never?


Not so long ago, there are open projects out there, you know? And you don't need to show the routing of your traces to show a simplified schematic of a power stage. But I was only asking there. A simple no would have sufficed.
Quote:


> i feel like I just seriously wasted 10 minutes of my life trying to figure out how to heck to respond to something i have gone over with you over and over.


What I was trying to say is that you actually didn't. Since the schematics are top secret and you cannot tell for sure based on a scientific argument.
Quote:


> What bugs me is that i feel like you just show up once a week to post in here and ask about this, that is like what Raja does.


The reason I am posting once a week is that I don't have that much time for the Internet. Once I was a very avid newsgroup follower, with some 300-400 messages a month (talking about Usenet, here). I had to give up that. In the NGs I followed we had our share of trolls and I know it is easy to suspect a newcomer of being one, if he does not bow down and kiss the top posters ****. But I am not a troll, nor I am trolling casually. I simply spotted a faith based argument and pointed out the circular reasoning that usually come from fanboys. I was under the impression you were not one of them. Sorry. I too feel I've just wasted 10 minutes of my life.

I'll tell you why I am so concerned with this board: I live in the Old World, and things are not going well here economically (I wouldn't be surprise if all the money I have in the bank would be frozen from one day to the other and turned into toilet paper) . The one I am about to buy is going to be the last PC I buy for a very long time and as I plan to use it for work, I cannot afford a mobo who has stability issues. If possible I want to prolong its life by reducing its power consumption. I went for Gigabyte (not ASUS!) because of their outstanding motherboard quality, I really want to buy that board and it is very likely that I eventually will. That's why I am asking all kinds of questions about it; what is best of an overclockers owners club? Overclockers push the mobo to the limit, if there is something strange it is more likely it will come out here, not in the silent pc club.

But I would also like answers based on facts and not on faith.
I did not think that being critical would have made a troll out of me.


----------



## 2therock

*** Yawn***


----------



## Sin0822

i don't want to discuss it because i already gave you an answer, picking apart what i write for no reason like you do puts me on the defensive, i don't know what to tell you. I am just going to say, do you see anyone complaining about voltage used or their OC not being right, or the LLC not working well? No, then that is some proof. How about voltage going crazy like on the asrock extreme4 which uses all its back caps? Bad voltage droop? have you heard anything bad other than this MLCC thing? anything to make you think it isn't good? I wouldn't doubt it then.

There is no way to prove it, that is why it is such a good allegation, however I gave you an explanation of why those capacitors wouldn't matter i just don't understand what you want. GB isn't going to release anything online showing what they use, or give any technical explanation, why? because there are no engineers on either side writing these things, only marketers. Imagine, some dude at ASUS under extreme pressure from ASUS's new marketing boss to trash the UD5H. The only thing they found to pick on was the number of cheap MLCCs used on the back of the board and the fact that GB has more USB 3.0 because they use a hub on the UD5H. lol I think its funny. Go online and search for how much MLCCs cost, here from digikey, this is the cost per each ceramic capacitor in the lowest package you can buy them in which is 10K: $00.00210 a pop. Sounds like GIGABYTE skimped on 10 of them to save 2 cents per board lol. If you buy 50K you can get each for 1.7 cents lol.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LMK105BJ104KV-F/587-1227-2-ND/930579

Seriously this is what i am saying, if they needed to use them, then there is 0 reason they wouldn't. They might be the cheapest part of a motherboard, if not some of those 402 resistors are.

I just don't understand what ASUS said that was so convincing about this to get you so roused up. That is what i don't understand, as i don't' think anyone else really cares.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Ok, it really seems a language problem. It has to be my bad, then. Perhaps the way I write makes me appear aggressive and I gave you the impression I was demanding an explanation from you. All I wanted to point out was that *BOTH* the marketing FUD *AND* the previous explanations I had read (yes including yours so far, but that's immaterial) _did not prove anything_.

Now, verifying the voltages, that is a scientific approach that could settle the question regardless of the secret routes the power is brought to the cpu. Please, please note that I am not asking you, nor anybody else to verify the voltages, I am only saying that this is the right approach: now we're talking science and not faith. As a matter of fact, it was the possibility that a design error (they happen, mostly in ASUS, ok







, but they could even happen to Gigabyte) could prevent me from underclocking the 3570k, that made me curious about that.

And, for God's sake!, stop mentioning Asus to me.
I never read anything else about the matter apart form that site's webpage I've linked before (kitguru, or whatever).

Peace?

EDIT: either... and... LOL. I'll have to ask a refund for that English course.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> interesting if GIGABYTE will make BIOS update some day with CPU temperature on POST code screen? Sin?


I had suggested this about 6 months ago, however I really didn't know that EVGA already had this, and GB said they would have to check if EVGA had patented this and such(they really are a decent company), i saw recently that asrock has their OC Formula board and i am told they are doing that too. For now the answer is no, maybe when they implement some other features then maybe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rondik*
> 
> It been a while since I visited this thread, can't believe 283 pages wow =)
> I just wanted to say my build has been going great thanks Sin and everyone else for any info and help earlier on when I had some questions, it has been 3 months, and not one issue at all (knock on wood my luck LOL ), still on F6 Bios, have not upgraded figured why mess with something that is working.
> This system has been rock solid stable, not one bluescreen,and have been playing every single game I throw at it with max spec. I am definitely happy I went with Gigabyte =)
> Also forgot to mention about a month ago I picked up the Corsair 1300 Analog Headset and I was afraid that the UD5H onboard sound would not be good enough, well I am happy to say the onboard sound is amazing along with the creatve software directional sound is amazing with most of my games.


Very good to hear mate!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> Ok, it really seems a language problem. It has to be my bad, then. Perhaps the way I write makes me appear aggressive and I gave you the impression I was demanding an explanation from you. All I wanted to point out was that *BOTH* the marketing FUD *AND* the previous explanations I had read (yes including yours so far, but that's immaterial) _did not prove anything_.
> Now, verifying the voltages, that is a scientific approach that could settle the question regardless of the secret routes the power is brought to the cpu. Please, please note that I am not asking you, nor anybody else to verify the voltages, I am only saying that this is the right approach: now we're talking science and not faith. As a matter of fact, it was the possibility that a design error (they happen, mostly in ASUS, ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but they could even happen to Gigabyte) could prevent me from underclocking the 3570k, that made me curious about that.
> And, for God's sake!, stop mentioning Asus to me.
> I never read anything else about the matter apart form that site's webpage I've linked before (kitguru, or whatever).
> Peace?
> EDIT: either... and... LOL. I'll have to ask a refund for that English course.


yea no worries man, its an online forum and your English is just fine. Actually pretty good if English isn't your first language. Online it is hard to tell how people speak and how they come across, you kept pushing the issue so i figured you wanted and answer. If I have time I will make a video to show you, and you can show others about the UD5H's power delivery, but right now I have a crap load more stuff than i can handle.

Anyways I think you wil be just fine with the UD5H. I will recommend the UD5H to anyone who wants a great board except if they are going to use PCi sound cards that I know have issues, which include for the most part Audigy2ZS and Xonar.
I am not mad and i don't hate you, i just never know if people that are asus fan boys or work for other companies come in here and want to start up odd discussions.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Removed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a new one lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, the other was 30mins, this is 20 and more to the point, and i got a whiteboard, i figured id start teaching people how the boards work. Towards the end you'll see the white board.
Click to expand...

Excellent









The guys from Vr-Zone have made their first look as well:

http://vr-zone.com/articles/first-look-gigabyte-z77x-up5-th--a-real-bargain--us-249-comes-with-dual-thunderbolt/16769.html

Nice board, if there really is about to cost 249.00 USD (205.583 EUR) I've made my choice too (finally)
Gotta wait some more, is still unavailable at the moment and in Germany is priced starting at €281,93

http://www.computerbase.de/preisvergleich/807766


----------



## stasio

^Just fire up my UP5 TH,came with F1 BIOS.








Testing now for AIDA64 and HWiNFO ,CPU-Z show Vtt voltage.......

Of course,waiting for Sin0822 great review.


----------



## Sin0822

nice haha, gotta update that BIOS but F1 isn't that bad!

yea CPUz even with F5A doesn't show VCore, only shows VTT. I will make a club now for Up boards so i can separate discussion.


----------



## Sin0822

new club http://www.overclock.net/t/1285652/official-z77x-up5-up4-d3h-th-owners-club-discussion-and-info-thread









Thanks stasio, did you see my video preview?


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> new club http://www.overclock.net/t/1285652/official-z77x-up5-up4-d3h-th-owners-club-discussion-and-info-thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks stasio, did you see my video preview?


Should we wait for these boards to become available worldwide? I was going to buy a ud3h but you look pretty excited by these new ones. Are they a better option? Thanks for everything you're doing here Sin. Are they similar in pricing?


----------



## chatumbabub

hi, I just bought Z77X-UD5H and can't find a infromation about how much Amps can be drain from CPU_FAN connector.
If it's possible, I would like to connect eight Artic F12 PWM to CPU_FAN because I want to control them together. ( it's 0,15A each)

Can you help?








Thanks.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chatumbabub*
> 
> hi, I just bought Z77X-UD5H and can't find a infromation about how much Amps can be drain from CPU_FAN connector.
> If it's possible, I would like to connect eight Artic F12 PWM to CPU_FAN because I want to control them together. ( it's 0,15A each)
> Can you help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I asked Gigabyte specifically about the UD5H fan headers and I was told 1A max, and of course they told me not to connect more than 1 fan per header (I ran a dual fan NH-D14 with no problems for a while). But if I were you I would get a beefy fan controller, and it's not all related to current draw. Wiring up mulitple fans there is always the possiblity of a mistake or short and that's a quick way to blow a header. I HAVE blown a fan header before overloading it (not on my UD5H's though)
I was running 14 fans off a G Vanns FC9, but it's rated at 50W per.

EDIT: The other consideration is that even though the total current draw of all the fans may be less than 1A, the start up voltage/current required for multiple fans might easily exceed the maximum delivery of the header. Something to definitely consider.


----------



## sena

Guys with 8GB, how much RAM you have in task manager, ideal is 8192 MB, but i have 8153 MB is that ok?


----------



## s4e8

That's not bad. My system eat up 107M memory. Some modern BIOS version up to 118M overhead. UEFI is a junky, I prefer to good old legacy BIOS.


----------



## chatumbabub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I asked Gigabyte specifically about the UD5H fan headers and I was told 1A max, and of course they told me not to connect more than 1 fan per header (I ran a dual fan NH-D14 with no problems for a while). But if I were you I would get a beefy fan controller, and it's not all related to current draw. Wiring up mulitple fans there is always the possiblity of a mistake or short and that's a quick way to blow a header. I HAVE blown a fan header before overloading it (not on my UD5H's though)
> I was running 14 fans off a G Vanns FC9, but it's rated at 50W per.
> EDIT: The other consideration is that even though the total current draw of all the fans may be less than 1A, the start up voltage/current required for multiple fans might easily exceed the maximum delivery of the header. Something to definitely consider.


Thank you. So as I thought eight fan is definitely too much. Six may be fine. (together will drain 0,9A). But as you are saying I have no idea if there will be problem with start up drain.

Right now I have two fans on CPU_FAN, three on SYS_FAN1 and three on SYS_FAN2. My problem is in speed regulation. I'm trying to have same RPM on all of them depending on CPU temperature. But I'm failing to achieve that. (usnig SpeedFan)


----------



## sena

Guys, should i have xhci enabled or disabled or auto?


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I had suggested this about 6 months ago, however I really didn't know that EVGA already had this, and GB said they would have to check if EVGA had patented this and such(they really are a decent company), i saw recently that asrock has their OC Formula board and i am told they are doing that too. For now the answer is no, maybe when they implement some other features then maybe.
> Very good to hear mate!


I knew EVGA had this but I ask this question because I just saw biostar have the same... so it will be nice if GB will have it


----------



## nascarmon

Hi. New to the discussion and I'm seriously considering the UD5H (love the layout & features) as my first upgrade since an ancient Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe (one of my all time _least_ favorite motherboards due to the cramped, horrible board layout) but I've been reading a lot about lockups & freezes at the newegg user reviews about this board and I'd like someone to recommend ram that fairly guarantees me stability & perhaps allows some mild overclocking? Since I'm not planning on extensive OCing I'm wondering if the $45 G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL) will be sufficient. Are there other brands with even better compatibility for the UD5H around the same price? Also, if I dislike the onboard sound I have an old SB Audigy that I'd like to put in. Is one of the PCI boards that can cause instability? I plan on pairing this board with a i5-3570k. One more question: I'm doing my upgrade piecemeal and wonder if an 380 watt Earthwatts will power it sufficiently until I get a better PSU. Also have Nvidia 9800GT 512MB video card I'd like to rrecyle until I get a better dGPU. Thanks for your help.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> Hi. New to the discussion and I'm seriously considering the UD5H (love the layout & features) as my first upgrade since an ancient Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe (one of my all time _least_ favorite motherboards due to the cramped, horrible board layout) but I've been reading a lot about lockups & freezes at the newegg user reviews about this board and guaranteed me stability & perhaps some mild overclocking? Since I'm not planning on extensive OCing I'm wondering if the $45 G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL) will be sufficient. Are there other brands with even better compatibility for the UD5H around the same price? Also, if I dislike the onboard sound I have an old SB Audigy that I'd like to put in. Is one of the PCI boards that can cause instability? I plan on pairing this board with a i5-3570k. One more question: I'm doing my upgrade piecemeal and wonder if an 380 watt Earthwatts will power it sufficiently until I get a better PSU. Also have Nvidia 9800GT 512MB video card I'd like to rrecyle until I get a better dGPU. Thanks for your help.


Imho UD5H is very good board, there are some bugs in UEFI, but nothing major.
For onboard sound, i found that on board sound is very good on this board, much better than on Asus REIII that i owned.


----------



## Lazlonius

Power Supply question
SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold for $119 OR CORSAIR Professional Series HX650 FOR $74 AR


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazlonius*
> 
> Power Supply question
> SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold for $119 OR CORSAIR Professional Series HX650 FOR $74 AR


Seasonic is more efficient. Otherwise both are good.

If you want more detailed answers and more alternatives, ask the question in power supply section of this forum







.


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Guys with 8GB, how much RAM you have in task manager, ideal is 8192 MB, but i have 8153 MB is that ok?


Because some of the RAM is reserved for the iGPU. You can change this in the BIOS.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> Because some of the RAM is reserved for the iGPU. You can change this in the BIOS.


Igpu is disabled, is still consuming memory when its disabled?


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Igpu is disabled, is still consuming memory when its disabled?


No idea. Could be. Check the BIOS and see how muhc RAM it's got locked off for it.


----------



## Sin0822

the seasonic is a better PSU, but the corsair will do the job just fine.


----------



## diglyd

Hi Everyone. (Edit: condensed my post..it was Huge! :0)

I am in the process of building my first pc in over 6 years. The last time I built a desktop system was when AGP was king.

I picked up an I7 Ivy Bridge 3770K cpu.

I read various MB reviews and tired to settle on a board. ASUS was out as I found an astonishing amount of quality issues in various user reviews that really scared me to get one despite the fact that on paper they looked awesome. They were also very pricey compared to others. After some research I thought that Gigabyte would be the best choice.

So *I just picked up a UD-5H tonight.*. Then I went on New Egg and read some of the user reviews and was shocked as well as concerned at the high amount of problems that people were having with this board. I instantly had buyers remorse and I was like "Oh ****" However I figured out that many complaints were due to people not knowing what they were doing, or not updating their bios. From what I have read here the latest bios seem to fix some problems.

But still I am alarmed . Should I worry? I want to build a stable system.

In regards to the UD5H I keep seeing comments that the UD5h has issues with the M-Sata, USB, PCI cards, and it exhibits freezing, and inconsistencies on ivy bridge under Win 7. Allot of this info seems outdated though. Is this stock or over clocked? Is this still happening on the latest BIOS?

Can someone give me the current status on the stability? (I am sorry but I can't read all the comments int his mega thread).

*Was the UD-5H the wrong board to buy in my case if I want a hassle free experience?* Should I have went with a cheaper 3DH or just a $140 Intel board or a MSI? (I really like that Sniper though).

In regards to the Sniper I don't need all those features as I am not a hardcore over clocker or plan on doing tripple SLI but I have not seen as many negative comments in regards to the board performance and stability as others and I like the idea of having wi-fi, blu-tooth, and well options. I really like Gigabyte as I think their engineering is good.

*Which one of these boards is the most stable for general performance on Ivy Bridge? which one is the most hassle free board to set up and get up and running at stock or slight overclock?* I do have a full tower CM storm case.

Sniper G1 3 (love all the features)
UD5H (thinking of exchanging for the wi-fi version if I keep it)
UD3H (cheaper option then UD5H less SATA)
D3H (cheap solid option???)
UP5H TB (Thunderbolt also sounds sexy as I do audio work).
Intel (assuming it would work out of the box but not sure now)
something else from someone else? (other vendor)
Maybe Asus Maximus Formula? No? too much? Some posts keep saying this is good??Not sure about Asus quality though.

*since the UD5H, Sniper share the same components do they have the same issues?*

Also will the G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-1866C10D-16GAB work on any of these Gigabyte boards? SHould I get the PC1600 instead of t hese 1866?

I bought a Noctua D-14 so I needed some low profile ram. The original Corsair Vengeance I had to send back to New Egg because of clearance issues. I forgot about that. I guess they now put these dumb super tall heat spreaders which I don't think actually do anything??? (no water cooling for me).

(RAM link G-Skill) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231560

Can someone also recommend some RAM if the one I listed above will not work. On the Gigabyte RAM compatibility page I could not find anything higher then 4GB or the high profile ram only.

Would this be a better choice:
Corsair Vengeance LP Performance Memory Modules 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600MHz (PC3 12800) CML16GX3M2A1600C10

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Performance-Modules-CML16GX3M2A1600C10/dp/B007TG8QRW/ref=cm_lmf_tit_7_rsrsrs0

1additional question:

1. Why would you need a dual LAN on a MB if they are not the same vendor (2 Intel) and you can't pair them? What is the benefit to having dual Lan for gaming?

Please help. I just need a recommendation on a stable board that can still allow for overclocking in the future. . (not saying Gigabyte is bad or trolling. I just want as little compatibility issues as possible from the available options on the market.). Thank you.


----------



## mandrix

I have 2 UD5H/3770K rigs and the boards are running just fine. More people post about problems than good experiences, just the way it is.
You can also check the ram manufacturer sites for compatible ram, often they will have more listings than Gigabyte does simply because they are in the business to sell ram and I assume do more testing,
Dual LAN: I think you can setup the Intel driver to function in tandem with the Atheros LAN if using both ports, go to the Intel driver properties in Device Manager.

It seems most people having problems at this point are either with KB/mouse incompatibilities or add in PCI cards. If you don't use PCI sound cards etc you should be OK. The onboard Realtek is actually very good on this board.

EDIT: I'm running the G Skill Trident 2400 ram on one rig and Kingston HyperX on the other with no problems.


----------



## diglyd

Thank you for the info. I do have an EMU 0404 Audio PCI card that I was planning on using as I used to have it hooked up to my studio equipment. Having the PCI slot on board was a plus in that regard and one of the reason I went with Gigabyte. So I guess I would have issues. Then again its a cheap audio card and I can either use another external audio interface or get the pci xpress version if they still have it.

I will check the memory manufacturer sites and thanks for the info on the ram that you are using.


----------



## stasio

diglyd,
I would recommend you Z77X-UP5 TH,
because is more mature then first release of Z77 series.
So far 2 days in test ,no even 1 freeze or BSOD,very stable board.


----------



## diglyd

Thank you so much . That is what I was looking for as an answer in relation to the UP5 TH. I thought about the benefits of it being a more mature second gen product but was not sure as its is brand new. My only concern is the price. Its is a little more but t hen again so was the Sniper and I was considering that also. The Thunderbolt ports are a definite plus.

I just ordered a pair of 16 GB DDR3 G-skill ares 9-9-9-24 so I am good there. On sale at Newegg for 89$. They were supported in the UD5H so the new board should be ok with them too if i get it.

I think the UD5H is probably an awesome board but I don't need dual nics and I would rather have TB and Wi-Fi. Heck I probably would be more then fine with the ud3h if that is stable.

Thank you again for the feedback.

D.


----------



## neoprimal

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diglyd*
> 
> Hi Everyone. (Edit: condensed my post..it was Huge! :0)
> I am in the process of building my first pc in over 6 years. The last time I built a desktop system was when AGP was king.
> I picked up an I7 Ivy Bridge 3770K cpu.
> I read various MB reviews and tired to settle on a board. ASUS was out as I found an astonishing amount of quality issues in various user reviews that really scared me to get one despite the fact that on paper they looked awesome. They were also very pricey compared to others. After some research I thought that Gigabyte would be the best choice.
> So *I just picked up a UD-5H tonight.*. Then I went on New Egg and read some of the user reviews and was shocked as well as concerned at the high amount of problems that people were having with this board. I instantly had buyers remorse and I was like "Oh ****" However I figured out that many complaints were due to people not knowing what they were doing, or not updating their bios. From what I have read here the latest bios seem to fix some problems.
> But still I am alarmed . Should I worry? I want to build a stable system.
> In regards to the UD5H I keep seeing comments that the UD5h has issues with the M-Sata, USB, PCI cards, and it exhibits freezing, and inconsistencies on ivy bridge under Win 7. Allot of this info seems outdated though. Is this stock or over clocked? Is this still happening on the latest BIOS?
> Can someone give me the current status on the stability? (I am sorry but I can't read all the comments int his mega thread).
> *Was the UD-5H the wrong board to buy in my case if I want a hassle free experience?* Should I have went with a cheaper 3DH or just a $140 Intel board or a MSI? (I really like that Sniper though).
> In regards to the Sniper I don't need all those features as I am not a hardcore over clocker or plan on doing tripple SLI but I have not seen as many negative comments in regards to the board performance and stability as others and I like the idea of having wi-fi, blu-tooth, and well options. I really like Gigabyte as I think their engineering is good.
> *Which one of these boards is the most stable for general performance on Ivy Bridge? which one is the most hassle free board to set up and get up and running at stock or slight overclock?* I do have a full tower CM storm case.
> Sniper G1 3 (love all the features)
> UD5H (thinking of exchanging for the wi-fi version if I keep it)
> UD3H (cheaper option then UD5H less SATA)
> D3H (cheap solid option???)
> UP5H TB (Thunderbolt also sounds sexy as I do audio work).
> Intel (assuming it would work out of the box but not sure now)
> something else from someone else? (other vendor)
> Maybe Asus Maximus Formula? No? too much? Some posts keep saying this is good??Not sure about Asus quality though.
> *since the UD5H, Sniper share the same components do they have the same issues?*
> Also will the G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-1866C10D-16GAB work on any of these Gigabyte boards? SHould I get the PC1600 instead of t hese 1866?
> I bought a Noctua D-14 so I needed some low profile ram. The original Corsair Vengeance I had to send back to New Egg because of clearance issues. I forgot about that. I guess they now put these dumb super tall heat spreaders which I don't think actually do anything??? (no water cooling for me).
> (RAM link G-Skill) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231560
> Can someone also recommend some RAM if the one I listed above will not work. On the Gigabyte RAM compatibility page I could not find anything higher then 4GB or the high profile ram only.
> Would this be a better choice:
> Corsair Vengeance LP Performance Memory Modules 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600MHz (PC3 12800) CML16GX3M2A1600C10
> http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Performance-Modules-CML16GX3M2A1600C10/dp/B007TG8QRW/ref=cm_lmf_tit_7_rsrsrs0
> 1additional question:
> 1. Why would you need a dual LAN on a MB if they are not the same vendor (2 Intel) and you can't pair them? What is the benefit to having dual Lan for gaming?
> Please help. I just need a recommendation on a stable board that can still allow for overclocking in the future. . (not saying Gigabyte is bad or trolling. I just want as little compatibility issues as possible from the available options on the market.). Thank you.






Earlier on I would have recommended the board (in fact, I did!) hands down because of the sheer value of what you get, but the longer I use it the more I change my mind.
For the record, I am on a UD3H, not UD5H like you but they are both very similar boards and all of them seem to be having similar problems. I have scoured the net and found several sources of folks complaining about the same problems.

There seems to be an issue with the USB ports on the board. That is for certain. Something is up with the VIA ports. I'm at stock settings, save for disabling EIST/C1E so I should not be encountering these issues. Some examples of my problems are as follows.
1. Doing the usual of even adding an external hard drive to the PC while it is powered on can result in a crash.
2. I have a Logitech G19 and I dare not switch ports while the PC is powered on as again, Windows will crash. It also will not work well on certain ports early on no matter the BIOS setting (can't get into the BIOS as the KB doesn't get any power at all). Before a BIOS update I did, I could not use the keyboard on the VIA ports at all as it would result in a crash and board instability but now I just can't swap the keyboard from one port to the next (that's progress I guess?).
3. I have an OCZ Solid 3 drive that works flawlessly on another board but constantly has errors on this board (drops out and comes back). I've tried both the S3 and S2 ports. I know that OCZ has a terrible reputation, something I discovered right after I purchased the drive, but it works fine on my Abit IP35 Pro board so it should work on this one.
4. When the PC is powered up every, single, time be it Windows 7 or Windows 8, the Via audio drops out and comes back several times while my Logitech G930 is plugged in. This happens like clockwork. I have tried the G930 on every other USB port including the boards USB 2.0 header housed ports. This seems minor, but whenever it does this the G930 automatically becomes the default audio, so I have to manually change it back to VIA audio - that gets old after oh, say 20 times. It should not be happening, period. You may not experience the same problem on your board since it uses a Realtek audio chip.
5. Drivers may eventually be a problem in the future. We all know how it goes. A few months later these manufacturers forget about driver updates for the boards. I survived on my Abit for 5 years because I was able to get driver updates from my respective part websites, namely, Realtek which seems to be excellent over the rest for their driver updates. The GB UDxH boards use VIA mostly for USB and such - good luck getting anything called a recent driver from VIA after a year. This sort of puts the future of the board into question. Some people upgrade their boards yearly, my plan was to go at least another 5 on this board. I'm not so sure it's possible.

I've been doing this since last week and still haven't found a sweet spot in terms of getting the board to work 100% stable, 24/7. But I seem to be getting closer. I have an unreleased (testing) Bios and some of the issues are clearing up (like the Keyboard working on a VIA USB 3 port).
I will summarize as this. I recently got my PC upgrade (last week, as I mentioned). I have had so much trouble that I have had to do systematic testing on every single thing I got. The only thing I haven't tested by swapping it to my Abit board is my RAM and I'm 100% sure my RAM is OK because I have run all sorts of memory tests. I also haven't had any memory errors.

The only thing you can do now, since you've purchased it already is set it up and see if all goes well. You're going to read as many good things about the board as bad. It is entirely possible that there's a bad batch out there that aren't so bad they fail completely, as if it's something very minor in the design of some vs. others. /shrug. I did my research before getting the board and I went ahead because like you, much of the negative comments came from new builders or people that seemed like they didn't know too much about what they were doing. I thought "this isn't going to happen to me". Well, I was wrong. As someone that is of like mind as you (I wanted a simple install experience and features for later on like SLI), I completely regret the purchase. But it may be different for you, and you'd be getting a heck of a board if it works.

I have one last ace to play before this lemon goes back and that is getting a 750W PSU. Do I need it? Hell no, you can see my rig in my sig. But it is the last thing I can think of why I may be having issues at all, other than my board possibly being a dud. Currently I have an Ultra 600W which really pans out to be ~480W, but it is a very stable 480W and I should be able to run what I have with that easily. I will be making a separate post with my experience of using and dealing with the board. I wrote GB about 3 days ago and still haven't heard back from them, which sucks.

I don't know what to tell you re: RAM and stuff. Since I am not OCing I just got some G. Skill Value RAM (1333) which works well. Dual LAN can be useful if one port goes bad or 1 connection goes down somehow, you'd have the second one available so the connection wouldn't quit. Some boards also route intelligently in that case. Not sure if the UD5H does.

Good Luck, let me know how it goes.


----------



## Lazlonius

AMD & Asus fanboy making the switch to Intel and Gigabyte. I was about to get the UD5H but right before I checked out I did one final search and saw the UP5. I had already ordered CPU and mem. I think I would have been fine with UD3H as it was all I really needed but I did not want the Via Audio and I like the port config of the UD5H better. The UP5 is way overkill; I probably won't even install the wifi card but felt it was a second gen of the UD5H hopefully more stable and with Thunderbolt which might be the next USB or I might never use. From what I understand it needs to be integrated and even if they are able come out with an expansion card it will be expensive so I figured I better do it while I could.

UP5
3570K
GSKILL F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM (went 1600 over something higher as I thought it might agree more with the UD5H which was a major consideration when reading all about issues)








Gets here tomorrow and will assemble this weekend


----------



## stasio

Did you see guys Z77X-UP7 Final Design?

Look here:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150943373302120&set=a.10150943373017120.412570.209090107119&type=1&permPage=1


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Did you see guys Z77X-UP7 Final Design?
> 
> Look here:
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150943373302120&set=a.10150943373017120.412570.209090107119&type=1&permPage=1


*WOW! Amazing*


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Guys with 8GB, how much RAM you have in task manager, ideal is 8192 MB, but i have 8153 MB is that ok?


8154mb here


----------



## nascarmon

About the on-board RealTek sound on the UD5H: how is the noise isolation? I use headphones & the amount of popping, hiss & general noise during silent passages or when no audio is playing on my old Asus A8n-SLI onboard sound is wholly unacceptable. Have things really improved with RealTek codecs since then or are things still utter crap?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Did you see guys Z77X-UP7 Final Design?
> 
> Look here:
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150943373302120&set=a.10150943373017120.412570.209090107119&type=1&permPage=1


OMG ORANGE

Son of a... now I need to buy new parts and redo my build!


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> About the on-board RealTek sound on the UD5H: how is the noise isolation? I use headphones & the amount of popping, hiss & general noise during silent passages or when no audio is playing on my old Asus A8n-SLI onboard sound is wholly unacceptable. Have things really improved with RealTek codecs since then or are things still utter crap?


you will need a sound card if you want static free audio i end up getting sound card for my MB and love it


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> you will need *an external sound* card if you want static free audio i end up getting sound card for my MB and love it


Fixed







. There is too much static noise in the case to be static free with a sound card. The only way to avoid it is to use external DAC. But again this is what every audiophile would say







, but not everyone can tell the difference.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quick question, Sometimes on startup I get 'lucid MVP has stopped working, windows is searching for a solution" this is random and only happens so often. Anyone ever get this?


----------



## DeXel

It only happened to me when my OC was unstable.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Did you see guys Z77X-UP7 Final Design?
> Look here:
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150943373302120&set=a.10150943373017120.412570.209090107119&type=1&permPage=1


it is nice isn't it ? Price might not be nice, that VRm alone cost as much as a D3H lol.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It only happened to me when my OC was unstable.


My CPU has ran Prime 95 with the AVX on max ram stress for 48hrs straight.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Earlier on I would have recommended the board (in fact, I did!) hands down because of the sheer value of what you get, but the longer I use it the more I change my mind.
> For the record, I am on a UD3H, not UD5H like you but they are both very similar boards and all of them seem to be having similar problems. I have scoured the net and found several sources of folks complaining about the same problems.
> There seems to be an issue with the USB ports on the board. That is for certain. Something is up with the VIA ports. I'm at stock settings, save for disabling EIST/C1E so I should not be encountering these issues. Some examples of my problems are as follows.
> 1. Doing the usual of even adding an external hard drive to the PC while it is powered on can result in a crash.
> 2. I have a Logitech G19 and I dare not switch ports while the PC is powered on as again, Windows will crash. It also will not work well on certain ports early on no matter the BIOS setting (can't get into the BIOS as the KB doesn't get any power at all). Before a BIOS update I did, I could not use the keyboard on the VIA ports at all as it would result in a crash and board instability but now I just can't swap the keyboard from one port to the next (that's progress I guess?).
> 3. I have an OCZ Solid 3 drive that works flawlessly on another board but constantly has errors on this board (drops out and comes back). I've tried both the S3 and S2 ports. I know that OCZ has a terrible reputation, something I discovered right after I purchased the drive, but it works fine on my Abit IP35 Pro board so it should work on this one.
> 4. When the PC is powered up every, single, time be it Windows 7 or Windows 8, the Via audio drops out and comes back several times while my Logitech G930 is plugged in. This happens like clockwork. I have tried the G930 on every other USB port including the boards USB 2.0 header housed ports. This seems minor, but whenever it does this the G930 automatically becomes the default audio, so I have to manually change it back to VIA audio - that gets old after oh, say 20 times. It should not be happening, period. You may not experience the same problem on your board since it uses a Realtek audio chip.
> 5. Drivers may eventually be a problem in the future. We all know how it goes. A few months later these manufacturers forget about driver updates for the boards. I survived on my Abit for 5 years because I was able to get driver updates from my respective part websites, namely, Realtek which seems to be excellent over the rest for their driver updates. The GB UDxH boards use VIA mostly for USB and such - good luck getting anything called a recent driver from VIA after a year. This sort of puts the future of the board into question. Some people upgrade their boards yearly, my plan was to go at least another 5 on this board. I'm not so sure it's possible.
> I've been doing this since last week and still haven't found a sweet spot in terms of getting the board to work 100% stable, 24/7. But I seem to be getting closer. I have an unreleased (testing) Bios and some of the issues are clearing up (like the Keyboard working on a VIA USB 3 port).
> I will summarize as this. I recently got my PC upgrade (last week, as I mentioned). I have had so much trouble that I have had to do systematic testing on every single thing I got. The only thing I haven't tested by swapping it to my Abit board is my RAM and I'm 100% sure my RAM is OK because I have run all sorts of memory tests. I also haven't had any memory errors.
> The only thing you can do now, since you've purchased it already is set it up and see if all goes well. You're going to read as many good things about the board as bad. It is entirely possible that there's a bad batch out there that aren't so bad they fail completely, as if it's something very minor in the design of some vs. others. /shrug. I did my research before getting the board and I went ahead because like you, much of the negative comments came from new builders or people that seemed like they didn't know too much about what they were doing. I thought "this isn't going to happen to me". Well, I was wrong. As someone that is of like mind as you (I wanted a simple install experience and features for later on like SLI), I completely regret the purchase. But it may be different for you, and you'd be getting a heck of a board if it works.
> I have one last ace to play before this lemon goes back and that is getting a 750W PSU. Do I need it? Hell no, you can see my rig in my sig. But it is the last thing I can think of why I may be having issues at all, other than my board possibly being a dud. Currently I have an Ultra 600W which really pans out to be ~480W, but it is a very stable 480W and I should be able to run what I have with that easily. I will be making a separate post with my experience of using and dealing with the board. I wrote GB about 3 days ago and still haven't heard back from them, which sucks.
> I don't know what to tell you re: RAM and stuff. Since I am not OCing I just got some G. Skill Value RAM (1333) which works well. Dual LAN can be useful if one port goes bad or 1 connection goes down somehow, you'd have the second one available so the connection wouldn't quit. Some boards also route intelligently in that case. Not sure if the UD5H does.
> Good Luck, let me know how it goes.


Not sure why you are having so much trouble with your build. What bios are you using. I'd suggest loading the latest official bios and setting optimized defaults with the minimum amount of hardware (i.e., one drive [system], wired keyboard and mouse, etc.) so that you can isolate the issues down to a minimum. Have you installed the latest USB 3.0 drivers?


----------



## frankalexandre

Hi guys, i have build a new system with a Z77x and 3770k. So far i can get it up running at 4.4 ghz. Can you take a look on my settings and tell if i did anything wrong? I am looking for stability 24/24 and maybe overclock a bit more of it. Cooler is a Thermaltake Frio OCK. Thanks.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Not sure why you are having so much trouble with your build. What bios are you using. I'd suggest loading the latest official bios and setting optimized defaults with the minimum amount of hardware (i.e., one drive [system], wired keyboard and mouse, etc.) so that you can isolate the issues down to a minimum. Have you installed the latest USB 3.0 drivers?


Did all of that. I pretty much start from the ground up and switched everything out as I mentioned in my post. I'm on the newest BIOS F12h (that isn't even on GB website). This bios seems to have calmed the problems down big time but a few still remain.

The core issue is that the board is really sensitive. Things that would freeze or cause other systems to stutter make this one BSOD. Now if I can just get the VIA audio to play nice with my G930 I can think about keeping the board again. I posted over on the Logitech board to see if anyone else is running this board or VIA 2021 with the G930 so hopefully someone will see it.


----------



## ChrisB17

Been running prime w/avx for hours now no errors. Still dont know why that damn lucid error comes up out of no where.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . There is too much static noise in the case to be static free with a sound card. The only way to avoid it is to use external DAC. But again this is what every audiophile would say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but not everyone can tell the difference.


good internal sound card will do just fine







doctor DeXel...mixing quality headphones with integrated Realtek on UD5H is laughable


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> good internal sound card will do just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> doctor DeXel...mixing quality headphones with integrated Realtek on UD5H is laughable


lol. I can't say from my personal experience if there is static noise from dedicated audio card. ALC989 definitely has it (its barely audible), and external DAC should eliminate it (by definition, not from experience).


----------



## Ali Man

Well guys, I have a Gigabyte UD5H WIFI that I'm wanting to sell. If anyone's interested, send me reasonable offers and I'll get back to you. Of course payment by PayPal.

I knew that I'll feel bad now that UP5 has proved to be much better than UD5H.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Well guys, I have a Gigabyte UD5H WIFI that I'm wanting to sell. If anyone's interested, send me reasonable offers and I'll get back to you. Of course payment by PayPal.
> I knew that I'll feel bad now that UP5 has proved to be much better than UD5H.


what you mean by "much better than UD5H" ?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> Did all of that. I pretty much start from the ground up and switched everything out as I mentioned in my post. I'm on the newest BIOS F12h (that isn't even on GB website). This bios seems to have calmed the problems down big time but a few still remain.
> The core issue is that the board is really sensitive. Things that would freeze or cause other systems to stutter make this one BSOD. Now if I can just get the VIA audio to play nice with my G930 I can think about keeping the board again. I posted over on the Logitech board to see if anyone else is running this board or VIA 2021 with the G930 so hopefully someone will see it.


Then you have a defective board and should rma. Your board is sensitive, not "the" board by design or else everyone else would be complaining of the same things; which they are not. It's a device and these things happen. rma the board.


----------



## QuackPot

I got my UD5H yesterday. I'll upload pics later.

One question though, how many sata cables came with everyones? I had 6x black SATA3 cables. Just that the manual say it should only have 4 and some unboxing videos had blue ones.

Strange.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> I got my UD5H yesterday. I'll upload pics later.
> One question though, how many sata cables came with everyones? I had 6x black SATA3 cables. Just that the manual say it should only have 4 and some unboxing videos had blue ones.
> Strange.


My came with 2 blue SATA cables and 2 black ones...


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> My came with 2 blue SATA cables and 2 black ones...


Hmm..

Guess I struck lucky then.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Then you have a defective board and should rma. Your board is sensitive, not "the" board by design or else everyone else would be complaining of the same things; which they are not. It's a device and these things happen. rma the board.


Actually quite a few people are having similar issues. I think the reason "everyone else" isn't complaining is that there are distinct factors to be met.
I've isolated most of my own factors and fixed them by putting my usb 2 stuff on a usb 2 bracket I purchased and also by removing the SSD from the SATA3 port. No more BSOD! The BSODs were the worst part of the equation, now that they are over I have to work towards the last issue I'm having.

I would hazard a bet though that if I instructed someone to do A, B and C with any z77-UD3H, it would BSOD as well. Once you can replicate certain factors, I think it will happen on any D3H, UD3H and UD5H but I will never be 100% certain unless I can find someone to help me test. But I'm 90% sure because of issues others have posted.

As an example the most annoying thing right now is that the VIA VT2021 audio drops out and in when my Logitech G930 headset usb key is plugged in. Because of the dropout, the G930 is set as the default device which is annoying as hell because then I have to set the VIA as default, pretty much every single time I reboot OR I have to unplug the usb key until I need to use the headset. In order to find out if this is normal for the board I need to now find someone with a G930 to see if they have the same issue.

So is the board defective? /shrug. I'm not saying it is not but I'd rather do my homework and figure that out to some extent before I give up a nice board. I'm guessing if I gave my board to someone else and they threw in a spinner, cheapy keyboard and mouse, it would work fine. Likewise, if I did RMA the board for a replacement, I would likely get the same crappily incompatible (to my system setup) board I have right now. I'd spend time removing it from the case, $15 to mail it back to Newegg, time without the use of my PC and then _possibly_ have the same, exact problems with another board. So, just taking my time and doing a little more research.

I'm going to spend 1 more week with it and see what happens.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> what you mean by "much better than UD5H" ?


Check out Sins preview of the UP5 and you'll know what I mean


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Check out Sins preview of the UP5 and you'll know what I mean


I saw... but if you already have UD5 no point to change.....


----------



## QuackPot

Is the VRM on the UD5H different / more efficient than the VRM on the Z68X-UD5?


----------



## 2therock

While my UD5H was out for RMA I became a little impatient/disgruntled and went a hunting a better board just in-case. I searched forums and the like across ASUS, BIOStar, ASRock and more for boards that had the features and tech I wanted and I gots to tell yah.......... there was nothing out there that had much less in complaints or forum posts asking for help with issues.

Nothing that had me running to it and putting my UD5H up on eBay.

That said, my RMA return is doing fine. I have tried every combination of USB port across my devices and have no issues. The only thing I have is the WiFi adapter will not see the driver as a signed driver. The card works fine in my other system so its Windows mussing that up. Besides, I'm gonna use it in the other system as it turns out.

I hope you get what you want no matter what you do. I aint real happy about the RMA, but am getting over it more everyday.


----------



## Sin0822

wait so you got your RMA back and the wifi card still wont detected?


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> Is the VRM on the UD5H different / more efficient than the VRM on the Z68X-UD5?


Well according to sin, UD5H's VRM zone uses components that of gigbytes x79 mobo. So it should be quite much better in a way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> I saw... but if you already have UD5 no point to change.....


Well I'm not satisfied with it. Just as Sin mentioned in the review that these giga mobos are pretty high-end and still don't come to proper fan-controller support. This is just one reason, I don't wanna bad mouth the mobo as gigabyte does make the best build quality with high-class components around. I was just looking for something else.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> wait so you got your RMA back and the wifi card still wont detected?


The card is detected, the Bluetooth side works fine.

The WiFi side has a driver issue, on this board or Windows install. I get the device manager splat with this error:

_Windows cannot verify the digital signature for the drivers required for this device. A recent hardware or software change might have installed a file that is signed incorrectly or damaged, or that might be malicious software from an unknown source. (Code 52)._

I call Gigabyte Tech support and we run the Gamut to no avail. Remove, re-seat, wipe and reinstall drivers, etc... He wanted to know If I could try the card in another system. I did on my EP45-UD3P.
It has no issue with the driver in the other system and it works. Gigabyte says its my software issue suggesting another Windows install.

I did the safe mode boot disabling the driver signing enforcement and it works. I would love to cure it, but do not want to format for it.

Thanks


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> Is the VRM on the UD5H different / more efficient than the VRM on the Z68X-UD5?
> 
> 
> 
> Well according to sin, UD5H's VRM zone uses components that of gigbytes x79 mobo. So it should be quite much better in a way.
Click to expand...

I'd say much better than the X79 vrm's either








It uses very low RDS(on) mosfets that consume & heat up almost nothing









Look at the X79-UD5 (the last one) an compare it to the UD5H (the second one):


----------



## Sin0822

not same as X79 VRM, it uses the same PWM, but new inductors and MOSFETs are better.


----------



## mandrix

You guys are getting noise from the Realtek on the UD5H boards? I don't use headphones so maybe why I don't hear it, I have 5 speakers connected to the AVR at the pc and it sounds pretty good to me. I have lots of music apps and the drivers from Realtek have been trouble free especially compared with the Audigy 2ZS cards I have (in boxes now).

They would have to go orange for the UP7. After already sleeving with blue and black with arthritic hands I ain't gonna change now. Guess I'll stick with the UD5H for now.


----------



## barkeater

I also have my UD5H connected to a Pioneer AVR connected to two JBL floor standing speakers and use the on-board Realtek. No complaints


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You guys are getting noise from the Realtek on the UD5H boards? I don't use headphones so maybe why I don't hear it, I have 5 speakers connected to the AVR at the pc and it sounds pretty good to me. I have lots of music apps and the drivers from Realtek have been trouble free especially compared with the Audigy 2ZS cards I have (in boxes now).
> They would have to go orange for the UP7. After already sleeving with blue and black with arthritic hands I ain't gonna change now. Guess I'll stick with the UD5H for now.


Same here, The 1st thing I did when I read that was start listening. I have used a set of Bose, cheap-o ear buds of numerous mfg,s, and an external set of PC Boston Acoustics. No static or popping. I retired a Sound Blaster Audigy because of the newer onboard sounds.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I like to think I am some what of a fine quality audiophile. Here is a link to my system. The bottom pic is not up to date as the VCR is now a Blue Ray, the major components are Onkyo.....

The reflection in the screen is whats playing on my beloved Hitachi Plasma.

All matching and large formatt a 7.1 system.

Dahlquist out of Canada derived from the Marantz family way back. These particular components were near the last in their line as they pissed all the major players off by releasing the same or better quality for more realistic prices, so they bought them out and buried them to kill the competition. Heh! I love it when I get a Bose (Size Don't Matter) listener over here.


----------



## nascarmon

Just about to pull the trigger on the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H and buy it but I want to minimize troubleshooting angst (and all these horror stories I hear) by making sure I have absolutely fully compatible ram. I heard that gigabyte & kingston work closely together to ensure memory compatibility. That said, will the Kingston Technology HyperX 8 GB dual-channel kit (KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX) play well with this board? Anyone here using it with their GA-Z77X-UD5H? AnandTech finally posted their review on this board yesterday. Hope the prices don't start to soar before I order within the next couple of days due to a another good review.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> Just about to pull the trigger on the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H and buy it but I want to minimize troubleshooting angst (and all these horror stories I hear) by making sure I have absolutely fully compatible ram. I heard that gigabyte & kingston work closely together to ensure memory compatibility. That said, will the Kingston Technology HyperX 8 GB dual-channel kit (KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX) play well with this board? Anyone here using it with their GA-Z77X-UD5H? AnandTech finally posted their review on this board yesterday. Hope the prices don't start to soar before I order within the next couple of days due to a another good review.


Look in my system specs. I have some Samsung green RAM 4-sale 16GB - $65.00, because I just did not want to have to clock RAM. So I got the Kingston Hyper-X Genesis 2133.
I ran MEMtest across them very thoroughly with no problems. I'm running a 4.5 Stable Clock with the Kingston on board.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> Just about to pull the trigger on the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H and buy it but I want to minimize troubleshooting angst (and all these horror stories I hear) by making sure I have absolutely fully compatible ram. I heard that gigabyte & kingston work closely together to ensure memory compatibility. That said, will the Kingston Technology HyperX 8 GB dual-channel kit (KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX) play well with this board? Anyone here using it with their GA-Z77X-UD5H? AnandTech finally posted their review on this board yesterday. Hope the prices don't start to soar before I order within the next couple of days due to a another good review.


prices don't change because of reviews. They change because of prices of other products and demand. And andatech hasn't said anything everyone already said 5 times.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> Just about to pull the trigger on the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H and buy it but I want to minimize troubleshooting angst (and all these horror stories I hear) by making sure I have absolutely fully compatible ram. I heard that gigabyte & kingston work closely together to ensure memory compatibility. That said, will the Kingston Technology HyperX 8 GB dual-channel kit (KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX) play well with this board? Anyone here using it with their GA-Z77X-UD5H? AnandTech finally posted their review on this board yesterday. Hope the prices don't start to soar before I order within the next couple of days due to a another good review.


I'm using the Kingston KHX1600C9D3T1K2/8GX in one of my UD5H rigs, G Skill Trident 2400 in the other, no problems. If Kingston says that one is compatible it probably is.


----------



## nascarmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> Just about to pull the trigger on the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H and buy it but I want to minimize troubleshooting angst (and all these horror stories I hear) by making sure I have absolutely fully compatible ram. I heard that gigabyte & kingston work closely together to ensure memory compatibility. That said, will the Kingston Technology HyperX 8 GB dual-channel kit (KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX) play well with this board? Anyone here using it with their GA-Z77X-UD5H? AnandTech finally posted their review on this board yesterday. Hope the prices don't start to soar before I order within the next couple of days due to a another good review.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the Kingston KHX1600C9D3T1K2/8GX in one of my UD5H rigs, G Skill Trident 2400 in the other, no problems. If Kingston says that one is compatible it probably is.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I know this ram isn't rated for 2400MHz but have you been able to OC at all? Not that I plan on doing much OCing but I might dabble.


----------



## QuackPot

Out of interest, can someone tell me what ethernet port is the intel one on the back of the UD5H and how it differs to the Atheros one?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> Out of interest, can someone tell me what ethernet port is the intel one on the back of the UD5H and how it differs to the Atheros one?


Top one is Intel.

In theory Intel nic should provide less latency and less load on CPU, but that's only in theory.

This thread should answer all your questions.


----------



## HCore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> Out of interest, can someone tell me what ethernet port is the intel one on the back of the UD5H and how it differs to the Atheros one?


Intel is the top one(LAN2) when it's installed(next to the DisplayPort & eSATA).

As far as the diffference I wasn't sure but found this quote from "Moeks" on OC/UK:

"For all intents and purposes, for normal use they are equal. Having said that, if you are pushing the gigabit connection to it's limits ...the Intel benches higher in terms of maximum transfer rates. At least from what I had seen so far it does. I wouldn't worry about it though tbh."


----------



## Yor_

One of my ethernet ports died. Bad luck it was the Intel LAN one (LAN2)....now I'm forced to use the Realtek.

In another topic...why does the UD5H scores so badly in Anandtech DPC latency tests? Is this aknowledged by Gigabyte? Is this a matter of BIOS?


----------



## Sin0822

EasyTune6 creates that DPC latency. As do add-in cards on the particular PCi slot.

How did your port die?

The other ports isn't realtek, it is atheros BTW. Atheros isn't bad, qualcomm owns them.


----------



## Yor_

LAN2 does not work. Even though I enable LAN2 in BIOS, install Intel drivers correctly, device is shown in device manager.... BUT, when I connect the ethernet cable, the lights won't even turn on...it seems it's the physical port.


----------



## Sin0822

that is very odd. But if you put it in the atheros port it works fine?


----------



## Yor_

Yes


----------



## Sin0822

interesting. So it doesn't light up or it also doesn't work?


----------



## Virus9

Hi you guys, i just recently built an ivy bridge build with an i5-3570k and z77x-ud3h. My problem is while overclocking and testing stability, I received a BSOD. I restarted my PC and now all I get is a blank screen. The debug console shows D7, I tried googling for some info and all it seems to be is that there is no keyboard attached for input. I checked and the keyboard doesn't work although my mouse works (laser is on). I have tried the keyboard by connecting it to a laptop and can confirm it works. I have tried resetting the cmos multiple times (taking out the battery while everything is disconnected, pressing the cmos button) and still cannot get it to work. I get no bios splash screen or windows screen. Other debugging steps I have taken is by attaching the speaker attachment to the motherboard. With the CPU and HSF attached only, i hear a series of beeps. With 1 stick of ram installed, there is silence. The HDD led turns on, the CPU fan, GPU fan is running. Rechecked all connections. I don't know what else to do other than to RMA the board. Any suggestions please?


----------



## DeXel

Try switching to backup bios. And how much voltage did you push to CPU?
How many beeps?


----------



## Virus9

I was raising the CPU mulitplier by 1 increment up to 42x where the BSOD's would start on default voltage. At each step, I tested basic stability using Linx 0.64, running at 6gb (6.5 gb was available) and 10 runs each. I increased the vcore from default slowly at 0.005v increments and retesting with Linx each time. The test would run longer after each increment but after reaching 1.16v I got another BSOD and then the above happens. I haven't tried the back up bios switch yet. I will try that now. In terms of cpu beeps, it was continous, then i turned off the motherboard and put in 1 stick of ram.


----------



## Virus9

I tried the switch and it still doesn't work. I get a blank screen with no input. I still get that D7 on the debug console, as before my keyboard doesn't work but my mouse works. I don't know what is going on.


----------



## DeXel

Well atm I can only suggest to try clearing CMOS the proper way as Sin0822 suggested once.

If does not help, well, disassemble the PC and try to boot it with minimal components connected (preferably outside of the case). Check the connections, reconnect them.

There was this guy yesterday with similar problem on D3H. I believe he ended up exchanging his board.

Continuous beeps though... usually mean bad ram.


----------



## Virus9

The beeping stops after I install 1 or 2 sticks of ram, only when I don't have ram is when I hear continuous beeps. I will try his way of clearing the cmos. I have already taken apart everything and only have the CPU and HSF connected atm.


----------



## Virus9

Nope nothing, even doing it his way of clearing the cmos did not resolve the problem. I still see D7 on the debug console however and do not hear any other beeps. Only had the Ram and CPU installed. I will have to RMA the board, a shame really, it was only built yesterday.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Virus9*
> 
> Nope nothing, even doing it his way of clearing the cmos did not resolve the problem. I still see D7 on the debug console however and do not hear any other beeps. Only had the Ram and CPU installed. I will have to RMA the board, a shame really, it was only built yesterday.


When people smash car,who to blame (shame)...car or driver?
Don't blame the board.You should know what you doing,when you overclock.
Board is OK,for sure!!

Insert *only* keyboard and mouse in USB2 ports,1 stick of RAM in slot 1,disconnect HDD (SSD) atm,unplug PSU,clear CMOS ,plug PSU back and try to went in BIOS.

Btw,
posted some new BIOS on TT forum.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I know this ram isn't rated for 2400MHz but have you been able to OC at all? Not that I plan on doing much OCing but I might dabble.


Which ram? The Kingston HyperX I assume. I haven't tried to OC it yet. The rig that ram is on is in the process of being modded so it doesn't have much up time lately.
As far as the G Skill Trident 2400 on the other machine, it benches pretty good with the Profile 1 setting, but I've been absolutely unable to OC it at all. I tried some of the Samsung Green ram and the fastest I could get was the x20 multi I think. Good ram for the money but the board isn't very friendly to it in terms of OC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Virus9*
> 
> The beeping stops after I install 1 or 2 sticks of ram, only when I don't have ram is when I hear continuous beeps. I will try his way of clearing the cmos. I have already taken apart everything and only have the CPU and HSF connected atm.


Yah, continuous beeps with no ram installed I think is normal behavior, not sure why you'd want to try to boot with no ram though. Last time I heard continous beeps was when my water pump power connection came loose. Yikes! can you say overheated? lol.


----------



## QuackPot

I think I saw an option for this in the BIOS somewhere but can't find it now but does anyone know how to change the case power button to be set to shutdown when presses instead of instantaneous power off?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Virus9*
> 
> Nope nothing, even doing it his way of clearing the cmos did not resolve the problem. I still see D7 on the debug console however and do not hear any other beeps. Only had the Ram and CPU installed. I will have to RMA the board, a shame really, it was only built yesterday.


Remove board from case and place on cardboard box. Install only power source, 1 stick of ram in slot 1, hard drive on which OS is on, graphics card, monitor mouse and keyboard, cpu and cpu heatsink/cooler. Make sure the mouse and keyboard are plugged into the rear 3.0/2.0 USB ports. plug power into wall but turn off at the power source by flipping the switch to off. Hold the power on button on the motherboard for 1-2 minutes. Unplug the power source from wall. Now, remove your cmos battery and flip it upside down and reinstall. short the cmos jumpers as indicated in the user manual for 1-2 minutes with a screw driver. Remove your cmos battery and reinstall right side up. plug your power source back in to wall and turn on power source by flipping switch to the on position. Flip the bios switch on motherboard to the backup bios position. Now for the moment of truth. push the power button on the motherboard and be prepared to hit the delete key to get into bios. If you are able to get into bios, click on Optimized Settings and save and exit.

If that does not work then report back as to what happened including any error code displayed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> I think I saw an option for this in the BIOS somewhere but can't find it now but does anyone know how to change the case power button to be set to shutdown when presses instead of instantaneous power off?


Power Options/Soft-Off by PWR-BTTN


----------



## Yor_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> interesting. So it doesn't light up or it also doesn't work?


It does not work, at all.


----------



## cab2

Is anybody using the onboard *mSata*? Is there any advantage to it? It seems to me that since they got rid of the northbridge there is unused room on ATX mobos, so intel decided it would be a good way to sell some mini SSDs, which they happen to manufacture.

I have a Noctua NH-L12 heatsink, so it would be difficult to install/remove an mSata from that location.


----------



## Virus9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Remove board from case and place on cardboard box. Install only power source, 1 stick of ram in slot 1, hard drive on which OS is on, graphics card, monitor mouse and keyboard, cpu and cpu heatsink/cooler. Make sure the mouse and keyboard are plugged into the rear 3.0/2.0 USB ports. plug power into wall but turn off at the power source by flipping the switch to off. Hold the power on button on the motherboard for 1-2 minutes. Unplug the power source from wall. Now, remove your cmos battery and flip it upside down and reinstall. short the cmos jumpers as indicated in the user manual for 1-2 minutes with a screw driver. Remove your cmos battery and reinstall right side up. plug your power source back in to wall and turn on power source by flipping switch to the on position. Flip the bios switch on motherboard to the backup bios position. Now for the moment of truth. push the power button on the motherboard and be prepared to hit the delete key to get into bios. If you are able to get into bios, click on Optimized Settings and save and exit.
> If that does not work then report back as to what happened including any error code displayed.
> Power Options/Soft-Off by PWR-BTTN


I have followed your instructions exactly. I still can't get anything to display on the monitor. The backup bios led is on, all fans are running, debug console shows D7. Oh and also one thing I forgot to mention, I updated the BIOS from F7 to F11. This was before I started overclocking but it was stable booting up at stock and while I was ocing up to 4.2 Ghz. It was only when I increased the vcore in slight amounts I got the error.


----------



## JonnyBigBoss

Just ordered the UD5H along with an Ivy Bridge 3570. Can't wait to see it!


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Is anybody using the onboard *mSata*? Is there any advantage to it? It seems to me that since they got rid of the northbridge there is unused room on ATX mobos, so intel decided it would be a good way to sell some mini SSDs, which they happen to manufacture.
> I have a Noctua NH-L12 heatsink, so it would be difficult to install/remove an mSata from that location.


Its hardwired to one of the SATA 3Gb/s ports (if you use mSATA, you cannot use that SATA port or the other way around).

Its useful in one of the following situations:
1) Test bench (no need to bother with cables).
2) No space left for SSD in the case .

mSATA SSDs are quite expensive now, and I would not bother using one unless there are some space problems.


----------



## cab2

I've changed to BIOS *F10a*, Gigabyte must have changed their structs... TweakLauncher is not finding all the values where it expects them to be, so it displays garbage in some of its text fields. I'm expecting a new BIOS or a new TweakLauncher.


----------



## KGeorgeG7

Hi guys,

I want to buy a Z77 board and at my location I am limited to choose from a few motherboards.
2 of these are the Z77x-D3H and the Z77x-UD3H.
I already bought the Core i7 3770K. I am planing to O/C it at the future.

So, will the Z77x-D3H be enough for overclock? (how much can I reach with air or watercooling?)
It has only a 4pin power connector. Will it be enough?

As for the UD3H, is 19euros more expensive than D3H. I really don't need the eSata ports. I only consider buying because it has 8pin power connector.

So which should I buy? Does the 8pin worth the difference?


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Is anybody using the onboard *mSata*? Is there any advantage to it? It seems to me that since they got rid of the northbridge there is unused room on ATX mobos, so intel decided it would be a good way to sell some mini SSDs, which they happen to manufacture.
> I have a Noctua NH-L12 heatsink, so it would be difficult to install/remove an mSata from that location.


I plan to use mine either as a dedicated cache drive or as a gaming drive (or both, if I get a nice big one). If I get a 120GB or even 64GB I can put a 32GB cache on there (I plan to buy 16GB more RAM) and then the rest can be used for my games. The only advantage I can think of is that you won't have to use cabling but maybe there are others.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGeorgeG7*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I want to buy a Z77 board and at my location I am limited to choose from a few motherboards.
> 2 of these are the Z77x-D3H and the Z77x-UD3H.
> I already bought the Core i7 3770K. I am planing to O/C it at the future.
> So, will the Z77x-D3H be enough for overclock? (how much can I reach with air or watercooling?)
> It has only a 4pin power connector. Will it be enough?
> As for the UD3H, is 19euros more expensive than D3H. I really don't need the eSata ports. I only consider buying because it has 8pin power connector.
> So which should I buy? Does the 8pin worth the difference?


I thin the 8-pin and the other OC features like the dual BIOS switch and POST code, and vread points might help. Otherwise it is your decision. I think the UD3H has a more friendly BIOS structure, like OCp limits set higher.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I've changed to BIOS *F10a*, Gigabyte must have changed their structs... TweakLauncher is not finding all the values where it expects them to be, so it displays garbage in some of its text fields. I'm expecting a new BIOS or a new TweakLauncher.


Yea i think the final BIOS will be different.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Virus9*
> 
> I have followed your instructions exactly. I still can't get anything to display on the monitor. The backup bios led is on, all fans are running, debug console shows D7. Oh and also one thing I forgot to mention, I updated the BIOS from F7 to F11. This was before I started overclocking but it was stable booting up at stock and while I was ocing up to 4.2 Ghz. It was only when I increased the vcore in slight amounts I got the error.


List all of your equipment. Identify which ones were purchased new and which, if any, were transferred over from your previous computer.

Have you tried using the iGPU?


----------



## nascarmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I know this ram isn't rated for 2400MHz but have you been able to OC at all? Not that I plan on doing much OCing but I might dabble.
> 
> 
> 
> *Which ram? The Kingston HyperX* I assume. I haven't tried to OC it yet. The rig that ram is on is in the process of being modded so it doesn't have much up time lately.
> As far as the G Skill Trident 2400 on the other machine, it benches pretty good with the Profile 1 setting, but I've been absolutely unable to OC it at all. I tried some of the Samsung Green ram and the fastest I could get was the x20 multi I think. Good ram for the money but the board isn't very friendly to it in terms of OC.
Click to expand...

Yes. The RAM is the one thing I'm most concerned about now since I heard Gigabyte motherboards have a history of being the most finicky of all motherboards when it comes to ram compatibility. Since I'd like to OC to at least 4.0 Ghz eventually, perhaps I'd best go with the Corsair Vengeance 2400 MHz 8GB kit (CMZ8GX3M2A2133C11R) instead of the Kingston. Anyone using these modules with this board? Success stories? Failures?


----------



## Ali Man

The UD3H is actually the UD5H and the UD5H is the UD3H.

It's like ASUS using their V-Pro series mobo to break WC's and not their ROG ones. Giga has made this situation a lol-fest.


----------



## EvgeniX

COMMON GIGABYTE let us use Samsung 30nm 16 GB!!!! at 2133+









or give us 2nd and 3rd timings!!!!!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> COMMON GIGABYTE let us use Samsung 30nm 16 GB!!!! at 2133+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or give us 2nd and 3rd timings!!!!!


There might be some new BIOS to help this out soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> The UD3H is actually the UD5H and the UD5H is the UD3H.
> It's like ASUS using their V-Pro series mobo to break WC's and not their ROG ones. Giga has made this situation a lol-fest.


Nah, they just prefer to use their cheapest board with OC features to make WRs, it is how they do it lol, how they have always done it. Like X79-UD3, it is hicookie's thing. Show how well your lower end boards can do, which all of your high-end are basically guaranteeing to do the same or better. The other way around is the best can do it, but who knows about the others.


----------



## KGeorgeG7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I thin the 8-pin and the other OC features like the dual BIOS switch and POST code, and vread points might help. Otherwise it is your decision. I think the UD3H has a more friendly BIOS structure, like OCp limits set higher.


Thanks for the fast response, I made my decision and I'll buy the ud3h

As for the v read points I didn't notice ud3h had. that's a nice spec that might be helpful


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> There might be some new BIOS to help this out soon.


Wow Thx Sin!!

I think All we need its XMP in BIOS or just let us know all sittings like in XMP timings.....


----------



## Virus9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> List all of your equipment. Identify which ones were purchased new and which, if any, were transferred over from your previous computer.
> Have you tried using the iGPU?


I have already sent the Board for RMA, free shipping so no loss.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> Wow Thx Sin!!
> I think All we need its XMP in BIOS or just let us know all sittings like in XMP timings.....


\well there is no XMP lol, its generic memory. Hopefully something will come soon.


----------



## dshill

Hi there guys & gals, am wondering if some of you more knowledgeable bods might be able to assist me with a small problem I seem to be having with my recent build using the Z77x-UD5H with BIOS F11.

Ive overclock my 2500k to 4.5Ghz using the below settings, and it seems nice and stable. But the problem is that within both CPU-Z (v1.61x64) and EasyTune6 the core speed fluctuates between 4501.39Mhz to 4501.65Mhz and I cant seem to get to the bottom of it myself.

My overclock settings are as follows:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081828.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081824.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081820.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081812.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081809.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081802.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081753.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081729.jpg

Any help and advice to try and stabilize the CPU Clock would be greatly appreciated


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dshill*
> 
> Hi there guys & gals, am wondering if some of you more knowledgeable bods might be able to assist me with a small problem I seem to be having with my recent build using the Z77x-UD5H with BIOS F11.
> 
> Ive overclock my 2500k to 4.5Ghz using the below settings, and it seems nice and stable. But the problem is that within both CPU-Z (v1.61x64) and EasyTune6 the core speed fluctuates between 4501.39Mhz to 4501.65Mhz and I cant seem to get to the bottom of it myself.
> 
> My overclock settings are as follows:
> 
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081828.jpg
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081824.jpg
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081820.jpg
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081812.jpg
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081809.jpg
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081802.jpg
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081753.jpg
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c15/dhillrankins/PC%20Build%20-%20July%202012/120728081729.jpg
> 
> Any help and advice to try and stabilize the CPU Clock would be greatly appreciated


Fluctuation to the core speed by such a minute amount is normal. All processors do it.


----------



## dshill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Fluctuation to the core speed by such a minute amount is normal. All processors do it.


Well if that's the case I'll stop worrying unduly then









Everything else seems to be spot on other than that, idle temps are averaging around 37c across all 4 cores and max temps are hitting around an average of 68c across all 4 cores under 100% prime load. Do those temps look ok for my setup? ([email protected] with a Antec Kuhler h2o 920)


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dshill*
> 
> Well if that's the case I'll stop worrying unduly then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything else seems to be spot on other than that, idle temps are averaging around 37c across all 4 cores and max temps are hitting around an average of 68c across all 4 cores under 100% prime load. Do those temps look ok for my setup? ([email protected] with a Antec Kuhler h2o 920)


Do you need something to worry about? lol Temps look good.







If I could get my 3770K's down to 68 under full load I'd be floating on clouds.


----------



## UberNubski

Hi,

I just ordered the Z77x UD3H with i5 3750k - they will be here on Monday. I was wondering what memory would be best for these 2. Initially i got this board as i read it would take 2400mhz memory right out of the box. If that is true is the G.Skill TridentX a good choice? I dont need to go above 8Gb so the price wont be an issue and my overclocks will probably opnly be around 4.5Ghz. I have a corsair h60 also en route. Thanks for any help.


----------



## BernankethePonziMaster

I swapped my out MOBO out and installed a new loop (my first one). I set my mind on UD5H but after watching Sin's UD3H review (THANK YOU SIN FOR THE CIRCUIT ANALYSIS!) I decided to go with UD3H.

Yeah yeah it's messy. I don't need it to be aesthetically pleasing since it's under my table and I barely see it
















Ignore the tissues. The spot had a leak the first I tested the loop (I twisted the tubes too much). I reinstalled the tubs and fixed it but I'm gonna leave them there for couple of days just in case. Btw the bitspower compression fittings don't fit EK res on the side, I had to trim the edges to make them fit









Here is the result with UD3H:

HWinfo gives the correct voltage









It's funny I kind of downgrade from 890FXA-UD5 -> Z68X-UD4-B3 -> Z77X-UD3H, but the results are getting better and better. I was only able to get 2600K to 4.5G stable on UD4, anything higher would lead to Prime95 instant crash no matter what voltage I set. With UD3H it can do 4.8G stable in a breeze and I haven't even pushed it yet. The new Z77 line from Gigabyte is rock solid and OC like a beast.


----------



## FoamyV

Would the Ud3h be a good choice if i'm getting a locked 3770? i'll still up it to +4 and hope for a 4,3 stable OC.


----------



## BernankethePonziMaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Would the Ud3h be a good choice if i'm getting a locked 3770? i'll still up it to +4 and hope for a 4,3 stable OC.


The furthest you can go is 4bin over turbo which is 4.3G, plus you can work on the BCLK a little bit. Both UD3H and UD5H can do the job but it really comes down to the CPU. Also what kind of features you need? How many sata devices you plan to run? How many graphic cards? etc.

If you are worried about the power phase, don't. The whole power phase thing is way over done in recent years. Any Z77 boards from Gigabyte can handle the OC on water or Air. Even if you plan to go subzero, the high end doesn't have much advantage over the low end.

The reason I picked UD3H over UD5H is because I have a Xonar STX w/o the metal shielding because of the modded opamps. If I put it in 1x PCIe lane above the graphic cards, my speakers make this coil whining alike noise, so I had to put it in the 4x lane. The 4x lane on UD3H takes resource from PCH instead of CPU which allows my 7970 to run @ 16x instead of 8x on UD5H.


----------



## nascarmon

About to buy the UD5H but I'm noticing that my Eartwatts 380 PSU only has a 4-pin ATX power connector for the 8-pin ATX power connector on the UD5H. Can I just plug the 4-pin in half the 8-pin MB connector, or will this cause stability issues? If I can't do it this way, will I need an adapter or will I need to upgrade my PSU? Ahhh, how I remember the simpler days when 1 20-pin ATX power connector took care of all the mainboard's needs.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/pchcables_2217_87572585


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> About to buy the UD5H but I'm noticing that my Eartwatts 380 PSU only has a 4-pin ATX power connector for the 8-pin ATX power connector on the UD5H. Can I just plug the 4-pin in half the 8-pin MB connector, or will this cause stability issues? If I can't do it this way, will I need an adapter or will I need to upgrade my PSU? Ahhh, how I remember the simpler days when 1 20-pin ATX power connector took care of all the mainboard's needs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/pchcables_2217_87572585


You will be fine with 4 pin connector. I have done that on this board. Not sure if it will cause instability during OC, but works fine without.


----------



## nascarmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> About to buy the UD5H but I'm noticing that my Eartwatts 380 PSU only has a 4-pin ATX power connector for the 8-pin ATX power connector on the UD5H. Can I just plug the 4-pin in half the 8-pin MB connector, or will this cause stability issues? If I can't do it this way, will I need an adapter or will I need to upgrade my PSU? Ahhh, how I remember the simpler days when 1 20-pin ATX power connector took care of all the mainboard's needs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/pchcables_2217_87572585
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will be fine with 4 pin connector. I have done that on this board. Not sure if it will cause instability during OC, but works fine without.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the prompt reply. After all my nervous patter in this topic over the last week, I finally ordered the UD5H today from Amazon. Keeping my fingers crossed that I don't get a dud board. This will be my first upgrade since an old AMD socket 939 platform with only 2 GB ram. This will be a MAJOR upgrade for me. Glad I have you guys & this club to help me in this.


----------



## barkeater

dude, your telling my story. I'm comming from a ASUS A8N-E Socket 939 board to my current rig. Was rocking the AMD duel core on that for a long time. Wait till you see how far things have come. Prepare to have your mnd blown


----------



## Greg4422

Gigabyte recommends at least a 500W Power Supply...Your Earthwatt 380 maybe insufficent. I recently experienced some issues with my second UD5H and 3700K build using a 550W Corsair PS, that works perfect in an AMD system. The UD5H system was unstable and randomly shutting down and BSOD with the 550W PS and that was on integrated graphics only. Nearly drove me crazy trying to figure out what was wrong. Replaced the PS with a 700W unit and all the stability issues vanished...been running like a champ since. Just sharing this experience in case you have issues with your Earthwatt 380 build, may save you some time trouble shooting.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg4422*
> 
> Gigabyte recommends at least a 500W Power Supply...Your Earthwatt 380 maybe insufficent. I recently experienced some issues with my second UD5H and 3700K build using a 550W Corsair PS, that works perfect in an AMD system. The UD5H system was unstable and randomly shutting down and BSOD with the 550W PS and that was on integrated graphics only. Nearly drove me crazy trying to figure out what was wrong. Replaced the PS with a 700W unit and all the stability issues vanished...been running like a champ since. Just sharing this experience in case you have issues with your Earthwatt 380 build, may save you some time trouble shooting.


I agree. Scrape up for a better PSU.


----------



## Blast

Got my UD5H replacement today (via RMA) and although it seems to turn on (no bootlooping), it has issues of its own.

Memory slots 2 and 4 on the board will result in my LED screen getting stuck on "15". I can place my sticks of ram in slots 1 and 3 for now, but it is single channel and I cannot set the sticks to the factory defaults (doing so will result in boot-looping of which the motherboard will claim to be instabilities due to overclocking).

Tried F4, F8 and F9o. Neither will allow me to use slots 2 and 4. Solutions aside from calling Newegg and expressing my general displeasure?


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> Got my UD5H replacement today (via RMA) and although it seems to turn on (no bootlooping), it has issues of its own.
> Memory slots 2 and 4 on the board will result in my LED screen getting stuck on "15". I can place my sticks of ram in slots 1 and 3 for now, but it is single channel and I cannot set the sticks to the factory defaults (doing so will result in boot-looping of which the motherboard will claim to be instabilities due to overclocking).
> Tried F4, F8 and F9o. Neither will allow me to use slots 2 and 4. Solutions aside from calling Newegg and expressing my general displeasure?


Should be using slots 1 & 2 for dual channel.


----------



## nascarmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg4422*
> 
> Gigabyte recommends at least a 500W Power Supply...Your Earthwatt 380 maybe insufficent. I recently experienced some issues with my second UD5H and 3700K build using a 550W Corsair PS, that works perfect in an AMD system. The UD5H system was unstable and randomly shutting down and BSOD with the 550W PS and that was on integrated graphics only. Nearly drove me crazy trying to figure out what was wrong. Replaced the PS with a 700W unit and all the stability issues vanished...been running like a champ since. Just sharing this experience in case you have issues with your Earthwatt 380 build, may save you some time trouble shooting.


Thanks for the tip. Yeah, my PSU is pretty old. I just wanted to get the main components of my upgrade (cpu, MB, ram) assembled, configured & stable, make sure everything is working, then I plan to upgrade the video, PSU, and, if I have enough left over in my budget, maybe a nice new LCD monitor (using a standard non-wide screen one right now) over the next month or so.


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob E.*
> 
> Should be using slots 1 & 2 for dual channel.


Uhh, yeah I know. I said that 2 and 4 don't work though.


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> Uhh, yeah I know. I said that 2 and 4 don't work though.


"Uhh, yeah"? Please don't be condescending to me. I was only trying to help. You're saying that the factory recommended settings (for two sticks; slots 1 & 2), don't work? Is that what you're saying? ...cause I'm just trying to understand you. If you're going against factory reco... don't blame the board. Two sticks dual channel - 1 & 2, add two more, slots 3 & 4. (Lol) - sorry I stepped-up.


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob E.*
> 
> "Uhh, yeah"? Please don't be condescending to me. I was only trying to help. You're saying that the factory recommended settings (for two sticks; slots 1 & 2), don't work? Is that what you're saying? ...cause I'm just trying to understand you. If you're going against factory reco... don't blame the board. Two sticks dual channel - 1 & 2, add two more, slots 3 & 4. (Lol) - sorry I stepped-up.


I've said twice that slots 2 and 4 don't work. If I use slots 1 and 2, that involves slot 2. Any configuration at all that involves slots 2 and 4 result in the error.

That "Uhh, yeah" is in respect to the fact that the manual states that 1 & 2 is for dual channel. Chill, no need to get so defensive.


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I've said twice that slots 2 and 4 don't work. If I use slots 1 and 2, that involves slot 2. Any configuration at all that involves slots 2 and 4 result in the error.
> That "Uhh, yeah" is in respect to the fact that the manual states that 1 & 2 is for dual channel. Chill, no need to get so defensive.


Not being defensive here. At my age (Haha, lol) believe me... Sorry for your troubles. If it's not working the way it should be... I'd RMA it... and since yours WAS a replacement, I'd question my 'faith' in the brand. (personally) I've been using Gigabyte boards for years, and never had an issue. What can I say? Sorry! Good luck.


----------



## snipekill2445

Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a GA-Z77X-D3H, I want that one cause it's affordable, and the Rear I/O has USB 2.0 which I need for my mouse to work properly.

Will it work with a 2500K? I would simply get a Z68 but they are very rare in New Zealand now, and cost too much compared to Z77.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a GA-Z77X-D3H, I want that one cause it's affordable, and the Rear I/O has USB 2.0 which I need for my mouse to work properly.
> Will it work with a 2500K? I would simply get a Z68 but they are very rare in New Zealand now, and cost too much compared to Z77.


No point to go with Z68. Z77 is better and works fine with Sandy Bridge. The only problem is that GB boards had no pll overvoltage control in the BIOS so it was always enabled during OC causing sleep issues to Sandy Bridge CPUs. Latest beta bioses include that function so soon it will official.

D3H is nice board, but in the USA UD3H is often on sale bringing the price to the same level as D3H, but offers some nice functions like POST code display and buttons for power, reset and CMOS clear that can be really handy.

Check the prices in New Zealand if interested


----------



## snipekill2445

It's only around 30 bucks more here, but It doesn't have USB 2.0 (Does it?) which I need for my mouse to function properly.

I also need to save as much money as possible. My budget is slightly under 600 NZ dollers.


----------



## DeXel

double post


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> It's only around 30 bucks more here, but It doesn't have USB 2.0 (Does it?) which I need for my mouse to function properly.
> I also need to save as much money as possible. My budget is slightly under 600 NZ dollers.


What kind of mouse? Why you so sure it won't work on USB 3.0 ports?

I see no reason why deathadder won't work

In the worse case you will have to plug your mouse to front USB 2.0 panel to install USB drivers for USB 3.0. You may even not need this, but I will need someone who owns UD3H to confirm the situation.


----------



## snipekill2445

I once put the Deathadder in the rear USB 3.0 once and then wondered why the control panel thing wouldn't work, then I plugged it back into the 2.0 port and it worked again. So I am going to Need USB 2.0.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I once put the Deathadder in the rear USB 3.0 once and then wondered why the control panel thing wouldn't work, then I plugged it back into the 2.0 port and it worked again. So I am going to Need USB 2.0.


Well I can't guarantee anything, but your board provides USB 3.0 through Etron EJ168 controller, whereas on Z77 its native Intel USB 3.0 ports. I still need someone to confirm what's the situation on UD3H (preferable with the same mouse), My G9x works 100% fine with USB 3.0 ports on UD5H, but 1) its different board and 2) its different mouse.

Wish you luck









BTW by control panel do you mean Razer software? Strange issue however... Have you tired to update to most recent version and latest firmware (both dated March 2012)?


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I've said twice that slots 2 and 4 don't work. If I use slots 1 and 2, that involves slot 2. Any configuration at all that involves slots 2 and 4 result in the error.
> That "Uhh, yeah" is in respect to the fact that the manual states that 1 & 2 is for dual channel. Chill, no need to get so defensive.


Sorry about the news. Mine came back great. Not to insult you but you do know slot 1 is the furthermost from the CPU eh? Just making sure because it almost being the industry standard most are the closest and it bit me before







.

Good Luck, I know waiting for a board to return is no fun.


----------



## BernankethePonziMaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I once put the Deathadder in the rear USB 3.0 once and then wondered why the control panel thing wouldn't work, then I plugged it back into the 2.0 port and it worked again. So I am going to Need USB 2.0.


Is it pre-boot? You just need to set xHCI to Auto instead of Smart-Auto then you are good to go. Make sure you use the two USB3.0 ports under the nic connector.


----------



## BernankethePonziMaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Well I can't guarantee anything, but your board provides USB 3.0 through Etron EJ168 controller, whereas on Z77 its native Intel USB 3.0 ports. I still need someone to confirm what's the situation on UD3H (preferable with the same mouse), My G9x works 100% fine with USB 3.0 ports on UD5H, but 1) its different board and 2) its different mouse.
> Wish you luck


I have deathadder BE working properly on UD3H. It's just sometime the board's pre-boot xHCI driver doesn't work well so if the device gets routed to xHCI you'll have problem. If it routes to EHCI then everything is fine, the only thing is that you lose USB 3.0 speed during pre-boot.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a GA-Z77X-D3H, I want that one cause it's affordable, and the Rear I/O has USB 2.0 which I need for my mouse to work properly.
> Will it work with a 2500K? I would simply get a Z68 but they are very rare in New Zealand now, and cost too much compared to Z77.


You'll basically be getting 4 USB 3.0 ports available natively from the Z77 chipset as compared to Z68 which is the main difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> No point to go with Z68. Z77 is better and works fine with Sandy Bridge. The only problem is that GB boards had no pll overvoltage control in the BIOS so it was always enabled during OC causing sleep issues to Sandy Bridge CPUs. Latest beta bioses include that function so soon it will official.
> D3H is nice board, but in the USA UD3H is often on sale bringing the price to the same level as D3H, but offers some nice functions like POST code display and buttons for power, reset and CMOS clear that can be really handy.
> Check the prices in New Zealand if interested


There are sleep issues even with Ivy Brige, I'm your proof.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UberNubski*
> 
> Hi,
> I just ordered the Z77x UD3H with i5 3750k - they will be here on Monday. I was wondering what memory would be best for these 2. Initially i got this board as i read it would take 2400mhz memory right out of the box. If that is true is the G.Skill TridentX a good choice? I dont need to go above 8Gb so the price wont be an issue and my overclocks will probably opnly be around 4.5Ghz. I have a corsair h60 also en route. Thanks for any help.


I'm using the Trident 2400 on one of my UD5H boards. Offhand I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work on the UD3H. Look on G Skill's site and see if it's recommended for that board, I believe the dram manufacturers do more compatibility testing than the board makers do. Don't expect to be overclocking it, though (the Trident, not the i5 - I want to be clear about that). I have been unable to overclock the Trident with any kind of settings. That said, it's fast dram and has been dependable right out of the box. The UD5H recognizes the Profile 1 setting and automagically sets the proper 1.65v in the BIOS.

I'm starting to wonder if we don't need a section for dram compatibility-seems this comes up all the time.


----------



## fortizvi

Hi all:
Those of you with freezing problems in the system, test ONLY to disable the bios option ErP Power management. The freezing problem, I have found that is not due to PCI soundblaster cards or anything, if not more of the energy control systems, both Windows 7 and BIOS. Therefore, do the following:
- Power Management -> ErP Disabled.
-Windows 7:
- Power Options -> PCI Express -> Power Management link state -> Disabled
- Power Options -> USB Configuration -> Disabled

With this, you will forget to take longer freezes "random" in your machines. Therefore, there was a problem of self-Z77 or not, of energy saving systems with new Intel chips and the system of "saving" power of graphics cards, leaving them in standby state and cause frostbite because of these savings.

regards


----------



## snipekill2445

What are these "Sleep Issues" that I've seen mentioned? I don't want to buy a platform that has know problems...


----------



## akabrainysmurf

What's up? Another new member joining because of this owner's club.

I'm using a UD5H with a 3770k and Samsung 30nm RAM and I'm having a few issues. I've read the thread from pg 200 on and didn't see any answers. Don't crucify me if I missed it... Lots of posts.

1. I've noticed a little quirk of using the betas - if I set vDRAM in a beta loaded as bios 1 (mBIOS) then the f8 final loaded in my backup is unable to adjust vDRAM. It will always be set to the value selected in mBIOS. Anybody else notice this? I suppose I can just save and load profiles for OC/Stock, but I thought a switch was even easier... Guess not.

2. I am using an add in NIC for comparability with a certain alternative OS. I have it installed in the 1x above the 16x and sometimes the card isn't seen after a cold boot.

At any rate I'm in for the sub... Beats coming back in a week and catching up on 30 pages.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> I've said twice that slots 2 and 4 don't work. If I use slots 1 and 2, that involves slot 2. Any configuration at all that involves slots 2 and 4 result in the error.
> That "Uhh, yeah" is in respect to the fact that the manual states that 1 & 2 is for dual channel. Chill, no need to get so defensive.


You're supposed to populate slots 1 and 3 first. You're making it sound like you have 2 sticks and that since 1 and 3 aren't working well for you, you're trying 2 and 4 which is why you're getting that error. Have you tried a stick at a time to see if maybe 1 stick is failing? If you do, make sure you only use the first slot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> What are these "Sleep Issues" that I've seen mentioned? I don't want to buy a platform that has know problems...


These boards (x-d3h, x-ud3h, x-ud5h) can be quirky. Some people have problems initially while others do not. I can tell you about my own sleep issue. Initially when my PC went to sleep and woke up, it would freeze completely prompting a reboot in Windows 8; in Windows 7 I would get 0xF4 BSODs if I slept the system and woke it up. There are certain SSD prep you must perform (which I did, so that wasn't the problem). I did a lot of reading and found out that this board doesn't seem to like Sandforce too much.

I've gone through a lot with this board, believe me. I think a lot of people return them in error. I was urged to return mine because of all the issues I had as well but decided to try to work through them and I have had success. I made some changes to my system and now it seems to be pretty solid. My problems stemmed from the very, very unstable VIA USB 3 ports and a SSD as my boot drive. They were exacerbated by the fact that I have a lot of devices. I'm sure that people who just plug a keyboard and mouse in, likely have few to no problems. I have since moved all my USB 2 devices (except keyboard and mouse) off the USB 3 ports to a USB 2 bracket I purchased (connected to the internal USB 2 headers) and am currently using a spinner as my boot drive instead of the SSD. I'm replacing the Sandforce based SSD with one using an alternative chipset. I'm telling you this because the 3 boards are similar and encounter similar issues.


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> You're supposed to populate slots 1 and 3 first. You're making it sound like you have 2 sticks and that since 1 and 3 aren't working well for you, you're trying 2 and 4 which is why you're getting that error. Have you tried a stick at a time to see if maybe 1 stick is failing? If you do, make sure you only use the first slot.


Not true, (why is this so difficult?)... Refer to the scan posted by 2therock (post #2964). Slots 1 & 2 are the first to be populated...but, _it appears_ as if they're in positions 1 & 3. To actually use 1 & 3 (or 2 & 4) first, would be a mistake... Testing individual sticks in single slots is good advice.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> There are sleep issues even with Ivy Brige, I'm your proof.


What I heard is that with Sandy Bridge error in firmware causes sleep issues on any board that has pll overvoltage enabled. Its first time I see somebody has sleep issues with Ivy Bridge.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> What are these "Sleep Issues" that I've seen mentioned? I don't want to buy a platform that has know problems...


With PLL overvoltage enabled the system running Sandy Bridge CPUs does not wake from sleep. This is not motherboard dependent. Its fault of any Sandy Bridge CPU on any board, but as Ali Man says he also experiences sleep issues with Ivy Bridge. However, I think that the cause of his problem is different.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> These boards (x-d3h, x-ud3h, x-ud5h) can be quirky. Some people have problems initially while others do not. I can tell you about my own sleep issue. Initially when my PC went to sleep and woke up, it would freeze completely prompting a reboot in Windows 8; in Windows 7 I would get 0xF4 BSODs if I slept the system and woke it up. There are certain SSD prep you must perform (which I did, so that wasn't the problem). I did a lot of reading and found out that this board doesn't seem to like Sandforce too much.
> I've gone through a lot with this board, believe me. I think a lot of people return them in error. I was urged to return mine because of all the issues I had as well but decided to try to work through them and I have had success. I made some changes to my system and now it seems to be pretty solid. My problems stemmed from the very, very unstable VIA USB 3 ports and a SSD as my boot drive. They were exacerbated by the fact that I have a lot of devices. I'm sure that people who just plug a keyboard and mouse in, likely have few to no problems. I have since moved all my USB 2 devices (except keyboard and mouse) off the USB 3 ports to a USB 2 bracket I purchased (connected to the internal USB 2 headers) and am currently using a spinner as my boot drive instead of the SSD. I'm replacing the Sandforce based SSD with one using an alternative chipset. I'm telling you this because the 3 boards are similar and encounter similar issues.


Please reply back with different non-sandforce SSD







. Sandforce SSDs are known for these problems independent from motherboard. I am totally fine with my Samsung 830.


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Sorry about the news. Mine came back great. Not to insult you but you do know slot 1 is the furthermost from the CPU eh? Just making sure because it almost being the industry standard most are the closest and it bit me before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Good Luck, I know waiting for a board to return is no fun.


Yeah, unfortunately (haha) I know how memory slots are ordered. 2 bad boards in a row is definetly disheartening. While Im sure this board is great, I think I'm going to try my luck with the ASRock Extreme6 (my first choice; I went with the UD5H bc I wanted to try the gigabyte brand)


----------



## Blast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> You're supposed to populate slots 1 and 3 first. You're making it sound like you have 2 sticks and that since 1 and 3 aren't working well for you, you're trying 2 and 4 which is why you're getting that error. Have you tried a stick at a time to see if maybe 1 stick is failing? If you do, make sure you only use the first slot.


Slots 1 and 2 are to be used for dual channel. Slots 1 and 3 would result in single channel. I have stated that absolutely any configuration involving slots 2 and 4 result in the error. The sticks of ram are fine (they worked fine on the last faulty board) and they have passed a long running of memtest. I am using the ram in slots 1 and 3 temporarily because the other slots are dead.

Sorry if double post - on a phone.


----------



## Sin0822

you can actually do slots 3 and 4 without issue depending on the memory modules.


----------



## Blast

Yeah, but slot 4 will rresult in the same error slot 2 has.


----------



## nascarmon

[
Quote:


> My problems stemmed from the very, very unstable VIA USB 3 ports and a SSD as my boot drive. They were exacerbated by the fact that I have a lot of devices. I'm sure that people who just plug a keyboard and mouse in, likely have few to no problems. I have since moved all my USB 2 devices (except keyboard and mouse) off the USB 3 ports to a USB 2 bracket I purchased (connected to the internal USB 2 headers) and am currently using a spinner as my boot drive instead of the SSD. I'm replacing the Sandforce based SSD with one using an alternative chipset. I'm telling you this because the 3 boards are similar and encounter similar issues.


Anyone know if these these problems with the Sandforce SSD controllers are universal? In other words, is _everyone_ that bought these boards having issues with Sandforce and the UD5H? I also ordered a Kingston SSD in addition to the UD5H, which I'm hoping to use as a boot drive but since power management & suspend-to-ram sleep mode are _very_ important to me, I'm wondering if I made a mistake ordering this board. It's not too late to cancel my order and go with the Asus, I guess, but I'd just like some reassurance from someone that they also use Sandforce and don't have problems with putting their systems to sleep.


----------



## 2therock

Those posting about sleep issues, there are ways to find what is waking the PC in event viewer and a dos command line that will tell you whats waking it. Basically you go into device manager and do a properties on it and hit its power management tab and deselect "Allow this device to wake the computer".

As far as one not waking from sleep it could mean doing the opposite in some cases.

I am as guilty as the next guy in pointing the finger at the MoBo but in some cases it was Win7 or the device driver.

My UD5H Ivy Bridge system sleeps and wakes like a Baby after doing some of the above.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/153968-sleep-states-see-available-sleep-states.html

There is a list of related links under the post also.


----------



## snipekill2445

So the only issue with the "Sleep" problem is when you turn the PC to sleep, it messes up on wake-up?

That's fine with me, Because I literally Never set my PC to sleep, I just turn it off.


----------



## Sin0822

well with ivy bridge you really shouldn't have an issue. If you are at stock you also wont have an issue.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> well with ivy bridge you really shouldn't have an issue. If you are at stock you also wont have an issue.


I hear you. No probs here anymore with a stable 4.5 clock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> So the only issue with the "Sleep" problem is when you turn the PC to sleep, it messes up on wake-up?
> That's fine with me, Because I literally Never set my PC to sleep, I just turn it off.


To each his own eh? I love the sleep for what I do with my box. I use it often during the day so waiting for a boot every time is painful.
My APC UPS reports a 200w load while I browse. I also have my cable modem, cordless phone, a display and more in the mix, when she sleeps she goes to 12w, no lights or fans the box is like its off. Love it. I know................ yours goes to Zero.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> Yeah, unfortunately (haha) I know how memory slots are ordered. 2 bad boards in a row is definetly disheartening. While Im sure this board is great, I think I'm going to try my luck with the ASRock Extreme6 (my first choice; I went with the UD5H bc I wanted to try the gigabyte brand)


That sucks. I know someone way back had an issue similar to yours in that a memory slot (or two) was not working. Please don't take offense at the other posters who were trying to help you out but how the slots are numbered on the board and how others refer to them is almost always a point of confusion. Good luck with your next board and if you get a chance post back and let us know how you made out.


----------



## Chodi

I have held off on posting this until I simply could not take it any more. I have a z77x-D3H with a 3770 everything at stock default setting for now. Since I have owned this setup for months I have had this problem. This computer keeps dropping my usb connections. My mouse, my keyboard and anything else plugged into the back usb ports drops out at random. Sometimes it comes back after a few seconds by itself. Sometimes my keyboard or mouse just freezes. If I unplug it and re-plug it nothing happens. If I unplug and plug into one of the front usb ports low and behold it comes back immediately. I have updated to the latest bios, I have updated every driver to the latest. I am on Windows 7 64x. I am out of ideas and I am usually pretty good at solving problems. This is so frustrating I am ready to replace this motherboard with one that can find it's own ports. Any help/advice on trouble shooting this problem would be GREATLY appreciated. And yes, I have tried every port, switching ports, limiting to only mouse and keyboard by disconnecting everything else. Sometimes I can get through an entire day without a freeze. Many times on boot it cannot find all the connected devices without unplugging and re-plugging them.

I should also mention that about one out of four time when I boot my computer it hangs at the Gigabyte post screen like it is thinking about something (Maybe 10-15 sec) then it finally goes to the Windows screen and proceeds with boot. I think it probably trying to find the usb ports. Any ideas?


----------



## DeXel

Have you considered that your board is defective?
What mouse and keyboard?
What G Skill RAM exactly?
Did you run memtest?
Are you running fresh installed OS?

Please fill your rig and provide more info...


----------



## Sin0822

hey those of you with PCI sound cards or other PCI or 1934A devices like Yor which causes your freezing please PM me.


----------



## Chodi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Have you considered that your board is defective?
> What mouse and keyboard?
> What G Skill RAM exactly?
> Did you run memtest?
> Are you running fresh installed OS?
> Please fill your rig and provide more info...


I have considered that the board is defective. That is why this last chance for ideas before getting another board. I cannot be without a computer while this is out for rma. It is now several months old so no instant replacement by the vendor is possible. My mouse is Logitech 518 usb, Dell usb keyboard. I am using 8gig Gskill sniper at stock and ran memtest no errors. OS is Windows 7 x64 fresh install was long ago but I do updates and everything is fine. Problem occurs even before the operating system boots sometimes so I do not think it is the os. This happens when I unplug everything except the mouse and the keyboard so I can eliminate the other components. I have not got a clue where to go from here. Other than the usb problem computer works fine with everything I throw at it including gaming. Nothing is overclocked except a slight over clock on my Gigabyte GTX 670. I am out of ideas.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> I have considered that the board is defective. That is why this last chance for ideas before getting another board. I cannot be without a computer while this is out for rma. It is now several months old so no instant replacement by the vendor is possible. My mouse is Logitech 518 usb, Dell usb keyboard. I am using 8gig Gskill sniper at stock and ran memtest no errors. OS is Windows 7 x64 fresh install was long ago but I do updates and everything is fine. Problem occurs even before the operating system boots sometimes so I do not think it is the os. This happens when I unplug everything except the mouse and the keyboard so I can eliminate the other components. I have not got a clue where to go from here. Other than the usb problem computer works fine with everything I throw at it including gaming. Nothing is overclocked except a slight over clock on my Gigabyte GTX 670. I am out of ideas.


You can also try another PSU and taking out your sound card. I bet that will make no difference though.
Other than that there is nothing else that you can try what you already haven't except RMA


----------



## Chodi

Just happened again. Good timing. This time I noticed that the optical light on the mouse went dead (as in no power). Of course courser froze. Unplugged it and inserted it into one of the front headers and it works. Not very practical trying to limit myself to the front usb headers. So now we know on occasion it completely kills the power to the port at random. My power setting in Windows is set to "always on" no power saving option selected.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> Just happened again. Good timing. This time I noticed that the optical light on the mouse went dead (as in no power). Of course courser froze. Unplugged it and inserted it into one of the front headers and it works. Not very practical trying to limit myself to the front usb headers. So now we know on occasion it completely kills the power to the port at random. My power setting in Windows is set to "always on" no power saving option selected.


Mine is a UD5H, I had the same thing. I would get the Auto play popups like a USB device was just plugged in, but in reality it had been plugged in for hours or days. Total random across different devices and ports. If not that, my keyboard would make the Bonk noise and start loading the drivers.
If you look in event manager you will see the errors and what are called DR errors on port:"Whatever". The DR stands for Drive Removable.

Since the return from RMA not a single USB connection issue. Still no wireless keyboard into BIOS but ***Sigh*** if thats the biggest issue at my house I'll coast on it.

As for cold booting, I know my eSATA HDD box connection makes it stall. I blame that on the Box and now swapped to use its FW800 port to a SIIG PCIexpress (DP FireWire 800 PCIe NN-FW0012-S1 ) card with the drivers Windows loads and it maxes out the FW800 speeds. Plenty fast for automated backup xfr's.

Try disconnecting any external devices and cold booting and you may find the cold boot stall culprit.

Good Luck.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob E.*
> 
> Not true, (why is this so difficult?)... Refer to the scan posted by 2therock (post #2964). Slots 1 & 2 are the first to be populated...but, _it appears_ as if they're in positions 1 & 3. To actually use 1 & 3 (or 2 & 4) first, would be a mistake... Testing individual sticks in single slots is good advice.


Yes that is correct, I was speaking in terms of their physical position on the board. Where it LOOKS like it's 1, 2, 3, 4 it's actually 1, 3, 2, 4 so you'd populate 1 and 3 (which is actually 1 and 2). If you take a look at my rig pics you'll see that I know how to set dual channel up







. Maybe I just shouldn't bother trying to help..haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> I have held off on posting this until I simply could not take it any more. I have a z77x-D3H with a 3770 everything at stock default setting for now. Since I have owned this setup for months I have had this problem. This computer keeps dropping my usb connections. My mouse, my keyboard and anything else plugged into the back usb ports drops out at random.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes it comes back after a few seconds by itself. Sometimes my keyboard or mouse just freezes. If I unplug it and re-plug it nothing happens. If I unplug and plug into one of the front usb ports low and behold it comes back immediately. I have updated to the latest bios, I have updated every driver to the latest. I am on Windows 7 64x. I am out of ideas and I am usually pretty good at solving problems. This is so frustrating I am ready to replace this motherboard with one that can find it's own ports. Any help/advice on trouble shooting this problem would be GREATLY appreciated. And yes, I have tried every port, switching ports, limiting to only mouse and keyboard by disconnecting everything else. Sometimes I can get through an entire day without a freeze. Many times on boot it cannot find all the connected devices without unplugging and re-plugging them.
> I should also mention that about one out of four time when I boot my computer it hangs at the Gigabyte post screen like it is thinking about something (Maybe 10-15 sec) then it finally goes to the Windows screen and proceeds with boot. I think it probably trying to find the usb ports. Any ideas?


Been there done that as I mentioned with my board. My suggestion is to try buying a USB 2 bracket. I found a pretty cheap 4 port version that allowed me to fill out my other 2 USB headers on the board and try using that. That was my own fix. The next would be to flash to a beta (newest bios). Also check in yours if ErP is on and disable it. It seems it's enabled by default on some D3H early bios revisions. Also turn off C1E and EIST just so we rule them out. Read first to see if there are any big problems with the new bios, then upgrade. This is what I have also done as well and my system has gotten progressively more stable, whether due to the new bios or the new way I set the system up. I give credit to both.
The next suggestion would be to try another PSU, depending on what yours is rated at. With all these new ports and their various capabilities, who knows if they are mistakenly sucking up more juice initially - that would be a clear case for turning off and back on again or off completely. If none of these work then definitely RMA or buy a new board. I hate that these new boards have the potential to give so much trouble but it seems to newer they are and stuffed with all these features, the more prone they are to initial problems. They're all trying to outdo each other and create fanboys of people who are willing to drop ~$400 every few months to get "the newest" boards and sometimes it's the "lesser enthusiasts" and builders who just want to do their own thing vs. hardcores that suffer most.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> I have held off on posting this until I simply could not take it any more. I have a z77x-D3H with a 3770 everything at stock default setting for now. Since I have owned this setup for months I have had this problem. This computer keeps dropping my usb connections. My mouse, my keyboard and anything else plugged into the back usb ports drops out at random. Sometimes it comes back after a few seconds by itself. Sometimes my keyboard or mouse just freezes. If I unplug it and re-plug it nothing happens. If I unplug and plug into one of the front usb ports low and behold it comes back immediately. I have updated to the latest bios, I have updated every driver to the latest. I am on Windows 7 64x. I am out of ideas and I am usually pretty good at solving problems. This is so frustrating I am ready to replace this motherboard with one that can find it's own ports. Any help/advice on trouble shooting this problem would be GREATLY appreciated. And yes, I have tried every port, switching ports, limiting to only mouse and keyboard by disconnecting everything else. Sometimes I can get through an entire day without a freeze. Many times on boot it cannot find all the connected devices without unplugging and re-plugging them.
> I should also mention that about one out of four time when I boot my computer it hangs at the Gigabyte post screen like it is thinking about something (Maybe 10-15 sec) then it finally goes to the Windows screen and proceeds with boot. I think it probably trying to find the usb ports. Any ideas?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> Just happened again. Good timing. This time I noticed that the optical light on the mouse went dead (as in no power). Of course courser froze. Unplugged it and inserted it into one of the front headers and it works. Not very practical trying to limit myself to the front usb headers. So now we know on occasion it completely kills the power to the port at random. My power setting in Windows is set to "always on" no power saving option selected.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> I have considered that the board is defective. That is why this last chance for ideas before getting another board. I cannot be without a computer while this is out for rma. It is now several months old so no instant replacement by the vendor is possible. My mouse is Logitech 518 usb, Dell usb keyboard. I am using 8gig Gskill sniper at stock and ran memtest no errors. OS is Windows 7 x64 fresh install was long ago but I do updates and everything is fine. Problem occurs even before the operating system boots sometimes so I do not think it is the os. This happens when I unplug everything except the mouse and the keyboard so I can eliminate the other components. I have not got a clue where to go from here. Other than the usb problem computer works fine with everything I throw at it including gaming. Nothing is overclocked except a slight over clock on my Gigabyte GTX 670. I am out of ideas.


As a previous poster has already asked, what are the other components of your system not already provided? power supply, hard drives, cpu cooler, any other add-on card besides the GPU already specified, etc.


----------



## Chodi

Just to inject a little humor in this just as I started typing this reply my keyboard locked up for a second. I have an OCZ Vertex 4 128gig SS boot drive. Never gave me a problem. I have a Corsair 850W power supply also never a problem. Three mechanical HD all those are Sata 2. I have a Xonar D2X that I use only for watching movies and playing games. Moving on, I have an M2Tech Hiface 2 USB interface for kernal streaming music to my external DAC. I use my computer as a music server a lot. Other than two printers that are rarely used, that is the entire inventory. I really don't think my 32" Samsung lcd monitor is at fault. Cpu cooler is the Prolema Meglahelm (yes I probably screwed that spelling). Nothing is overclocked except a slight overclock on the GTX 670.

As I already said, I did unhook everything on the usb side except the mouse and keyboard and the problem persisted so all those components can be taken out of the puzzle. The usb problem is the only problem I have ever experienced with this setup.

The suggestion to try a powered usb hub is a good idea. I will try to get one tomorrow. I live in Thailand and even simple things like that are not always immediately available but we do have an IT center here in Pattaya so I will give that a try.


----------



## Gregar Forte

Hi,I have a Gigabyte Z77X-D3H board.Can I use 4x Artic Cooling F12 PWM fan on this board with the system fan header as the fan have 4-pin fan connector with another 4 pin power splitter?I read somewhere that every board has specific max watt for fan and the board will burnt if exceeded the rated power.It is true?thanks for any help..


----------



## ElectricDelta

Have you looked in the Windows Event Viewer? Any entries the event log there related to USB? Go to Control Panel, System and Security, Administrative Tools, View Event Logs. Once in the Event Viewer, go to Windows Logs, and then System. Ideally, check the log right after this event happens, to save time scrolling back through it.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> Just to inject a little humor in this just as I started typing this reply my keyboard locked up for a second. I have an OCZ Vertex 4 128gig SS boot drive. Never gave me a problem. I have a Corsair 850W power supply also never a problem. Three mechanical HD all those are Sata 2. I have a Xonar D2X that I use only for watching movies and playing games. Moving on, I have an M2Tech Hiface 2 USB interface for kernal streaming music to my external DAC. I use my computer as a music server a lot. Other than two printers that are rarely used, that is the entire inventory. I really don't think my 32" Samsung lcd monitor is at fault. Cpu cooler is the Prolema Meglahelm (yes I probably screwed that spelling). Nothing is overclocked except a slight overclock on the GTX 670.
> As I already said, I did unhook everything on the usb side except the mouse and keyboard and the problem persisted so all those components can be taken out of the puzzle. The usb problem is the only problem I have ever experienced with this setup.
> The suggestion to try a powered usb hub is a good idea. I will try to get one tomorrow. I live in Thailand and even simple things like that are not always immediately available but we do have an IT center here in Pattaya so I will give that a try.


A couple red flags...I know this is going to be more trouble than it's worth so maybe you should exchange the board but can you try:

1. using a spinner as you boot
2. remove any and all pci cards

By using a mechanical drive you're absolutely ruling out the possibility of it being a SSD problem. I know it's highly unlikely but it's best to try everything. If you have problems on the spinner then obviously it's not the SSD. If you don't then you can focus on why.
It's the same deal re: the PCI card. In the effort to remove as much from the equation as possible, you just have to try everything and work up from there.

I can tell you right now that powered hubs won't make a difference in this case. I have 2 powered hubs and my issues persisted through using them. Try the bracket though - the purpose of the bracket is to move as many of your devices OFF usb 3 ports as possible. I had to start from the ground up to figure out my problems so that is just what you'll have to do as well (if it's worth it to you to keep the board). I truly believe that once you get stuff off the usb 3 ports, the rest will fall into place. I am disheartened to hear your specs - I always thought that maybe power played a part of the USB 3 problems but you have a great power supply. I also thought that a non-Sandforce SSD would work better with the board but yours is using the Everest 2 platform. Let's hope it's not the SSD causing your issues though.

Also, you said you tried the latest BIOS, is that the latest from GB or the latest beta bios from here? Since you're trying everything, you might as well try the beta bios. God forbid something happens you have plenty recovery options available.


----------



## baal80

Hello, does anybody know if Speedfan supports Z77X-UD3H ? What I want to know is - using Speedfan, can I access all the board fans speed?

A new Speedfan version (beta though) came out today. If someone could check it for me, I'd be very grateful.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregar Forte*
> 
> Hi,I have a Gigabyte Z77X-D3H board.Can I use 4x Artic Cooling F12 PWM fan on this board with the system fan header as the fan have 4-pin fan connector with another 4 pin power splitter?I read somewhere that every board has specific max watt for fan and the board will burnt if exceeded the rated power.It is true?thanks for any help..


Yea you can split 2 fans I would think, but not more than that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baal80*
> 
> Hello, does anybody know if Speedfan supports Z77X-UD3H ? What I want to know is - using Speedfan, can I access all the board fans speed?
> A new Speedfan version (beta though) came out today. If someone could check it for me, I'd be very grateful.


I will check but i don't think it will recognize all of it correctly. Hey I am not going to register for the beta, lol you want to download it and then upload it.


----------



## baal80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey I am not going to register for the beta, lol you want to download it and then upload it.


Sorry, according to the author it would be a copyright violation. Thanks anyway


----------



## Sin0822

Okay then, perhaps someone else would want to do it because the last thing I need is to register on another site. God it is like I give away passwords every second lol.

BTW if you know the guy tell him to update his readings for iTE8728F

Fintek is used mainly on many MSI boards, EVGA as well sometimes. ASUS uses nuvoton. However all of them dabble in other brands sometimes.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Okay then, perhaps someone else would want to do it because the last thing I need is to register on another site. God it is like I give away passwords every second lol.


Yeh, that and installing another program eh?

I use a controller. If your gonna be running splitters maybe your speeds will be accurate. I use a controller. http://bit.ly/OexNQY


----------



## Sin0822

no the program to install is fine, my OSes get redone like every other day lol.

BTW if he asks for a datasheet here is the iTE8728F: http://wenku.baidu.com/view/7b55fad726fff705cc170a78.html

The Chinese don't really have copywrite or patents, unless of course it benefits them, neat system IMO. I love how all the good datasheets are deep within that site, you can find VRD12 specs and everything.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Online it is hard to tell how people speak and how they come across,


Yeah, I know that, it's the lack of visual clues (facial expression, body position)...
Quote:


> If I have time I will make a video to show you, and you can show others about the UD5H's power delivery, but right now I have a crap load more stuff than i can handle.


Thanks, but if you happen to have some time to spare, I'd rather like to know how this board fares with respect to undervolting and underclocking. I have yet to read anything about how the UD5H and Ivy Bridge can work together to bring down voltage, hence power, therefore temperatures.
I know that talking about undervolting in an overclockers' club is like cursing in church, but - hey - I mean underclocking between overclockings.








System lives longer and quieter, the power bill is (so very slightly) slimmer, and on a mass scale there could also be a slight impact on CO2 emissions (and oil imports).


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> Yeah, I know that, it's the lack of visual clues (facial expression, body position)...
> Thanks, but if you happen to have some time to spare, I'd rather like to know how this board fares with respect to undervolting and underclocking. I have yet to read anything about how the UD5H and Ivy Bridge can work together to bring down voltage, hence power, therefore temperatures.
> I know that talking about undervolting in an overclockers' club is like cursing in church, but - hey - I mean underclocking between overclockings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System lives longer and quieter, the power bill is (so very slightly) slimmer, and on a mass scale there could also be a slight impact on CO2 emissions (and oil imports).


Lives longer? Gosh how long do you run the same machine, by the time it dies Windows99 / Brooklyn Bridge - Z1002 will be out. Heh! I'm still using a GA-EP35-DS3R with a Q6600 clocked at 3.0 since 2008.

Run cooler, I dunno, my temps between stock and a 4.5 clock are the same when they run the same speeds. This droop thing is nice. I;m new to clocking but it seems it will not run 4.5 unless called for by a task.

But with an on-board dual BIOS switch, you can have two different setups/worlds so its possible for you to get in the neighborhood of what you want..


----------



## sixor

http://www.majorgeeks.com/Intel_Rapid_Storage_Technology_Driver_d7103.html

new drivers


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> http://www.majorgeeks.com/Intel_Rapid_Storage_Technology_Driver_d7103.html
> new drivers


Looks like it now supports TRIM on RAID 0. Very happy. Anyone tried them out yet?


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> 8154mb here


Thx for info.
Also anyone have some info about Xhci setting in bios.
Enable, disable or smart auto?


----------



## Chodi

Bought a powered Belkin usb hub and running everything off the front headers (no usb plugged into the back of the computer). Haven't had a freeze or a usb drop all day. This is not exactly an elegant fix, but it works. I will wait to try the next official bios. If that doesn't make the back ports reliable than I will be off to get another motherboard from a different company. I just don't have the time to spend days trouble shooting such a simple problem with this board. Thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chodi*
> 
> Bought a powered Belkin usb hub and running everything off the front headers (no usb plugged into the back of the computer). Haven't had a freeze or a usb drop all day. This is not exactly an elegant fix, but it works. I will wait to try the next official bios. If that doesn't make the back ports reliable than I will be off to get another motherboard from a different company. I just don't have the time to spend days trouble shooting such a simple problem with this board. Thanks for the suggestions.


That's why I recommended a bracket







Here's an example. This is way better than seeing cables run from the front or top of your case to a hub.

I had emailed GB support DAYS ago for my problem and they just replied yesterday. I asked them about the unstable USB 3 ports (specifying VIA) and they pretty much completely skirt around the question. I am very much hoping that a bios comes that significantly fixes the issue as well but I'm not convinced that it will happen (any time soon) considering there have already been numerous revisions to the bios already of all these boards. In essence, I suspect they know, they just can't seem to fix it.

Quite frankly it's looking like no vendor has 100% solid USB 3. If you do some reading on Newegg or wherever about any board you are considering, you'll learn that pretty much all of them can be problematic and it usually comes down to people seeing usb devices disappear or severely slow usb 3, etc.

If you do get another board and it works well (or better than yours) please let me know as I may also be in the market for one sooner than later.


----------



## chip94

I've finalised on getting either the UD5H or the UD3H.

The UD5H is out of stock over here and it'll take about 15days to get back in stock. I thought of going with the UD3H. However, my main concern is the sound on the UD3H. It's got a VIA chip instead of Realtek. Does it make a difference? I'm used to the realtek on my EP45. Should I take the UD3H? Its seems a real good board for the price!

Thanks


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Lives longer? Gosh how long do you run the same machine,


LOL, as I wrote before I am still running a GA 8iexp with a [email protected] GHz








Built it in 2002, still going strong (so to speak







). Too bad the bios won't let me use HDs bigger than 137 GB...
But what I really mean with lives longer is that low temps reduce the chance of early failing.
Besides, I am a strong supporter of recycling: a long-lived system can be used as a secondary computer (like the one I am about to replace) or, better yet, it could be given away to schools or to young people who cannot afford one.
Quote:


> Run cooler, I dunno, my temps between stock and a 4.5 clock are the same when they run the same speeds. This droop thing is nice. I;m new to clocking but it seems it will not run 4.5 unless called for by a task.


Yep, if the system is idle there is almost no difference in power consumption between 1.6GHZ and 4.5GHz settings. Intel did the right thing with their frequency scaling thingy. And yet, undervolting can slightly reduce power drain, even when idling.
Here's a link to the only page I've found discussing undervolting an Ivy Bridge CPU: http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge . As you can see, temps go down with voltage, and so does power. (yeah, I know, very little, but it's better than nothing especially if one wants the system to be silent when idle, reading texts, browsing...)
There really is no need for a system to suck 200W while it's sitting on its a**.
Quote:


> But with an on-board dual BIOS switch, you can have two different setups/worlds so its possible for you to get in the neighborhood of what you want..


I thought I could switch between 'power sipping' and 'daredevil overclocking' settings by just using profiles (but I am a total noob about that).


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> That's why I recommended a bracket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an example. This is way better than seeing cables run from the front or top of your case to a hub.
> I had emailed GB support DAYS ago for my problem and they just replied yesterday. I asked them about the unstable USB 3 ports (specifying VIA) and they pretty much completely skirt around the question. I am very much hoping that a bios comes that significantly fixes the issue as well but I'm not convinced that it will happen (any time soon) considering there have already been numerous revisions to the bios already of all these boards. In essence, I suspect they know, they just can't seem to fix it.
> Quite frankly it's looking like no vendor has 100% solid USB 3. If you do some reading on Newegg or wherever about any board you are considering, you'll learn that pretty much all of them can be problematic and it usually comes down to people seeing usb devices disappear or severely slow usb 3, etc.
> If you do get another board and it works well (or better than yours) please let me know as I may also be in the market for one sooner than later.


I just want to chime in once more,....... my board returned from RMA with none of the spoken USB issues mentioned in this thread. It had them and I made sure they knew it in detail in the letter in the box and on their form.

I went looking for another MFG while it was away but the UDH5 has the layout and features I need over the rest so I backed off until It came back. I read reviews and forum comments on several MFG's and they all resemble an industry standard in this hobby of home custum building we do, none of them are without woes. ............. Loving the UHD5 now.

Good Luck!


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> That's why I recommended a bracket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an example. This is way better than seeing cables run from the front or top of your case to a hub.
> I had emailed GB support DAYS ago for my problem and they just replied yesterday. I asked them about the unstable USB 3 ports (specifying VIA) and they pretty much completely skirt around the question. I am very much hoping that a bios comes that significantly fixes the issue as well but I'm not convinced that it will happen (any time soon) considering there have already been numerous revisions to the bios already of all these boards. In essence, I suspect they know, they just can't seem to fix it.
> Quite frankly it's looking like no vendor has 100% solid USB 3. If you do some reading on Newegg or wherever about any board you are considering, you'll learn that pretty much all of them can be problematic and it usually comes down to people seeing usb devices disappear or severely slow usb 3, etc.
> If you do get another board and it works well (or better than yours) please let me know as I may also be in the market for one sooner than later.


It's not clear what problem you're having with VIA usb3. Looks like the 4 ports in the back and the 2 headers at the bottom are VIA. Then the 1 header next to the DIMMs is Intel. Is that correct?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> Looks like it now supports TRIM on RAID 0. Very happy. Anyone tried them out yet?


woring fine on single ahci (1 disk)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Thx for info.
> Also anyone have some info about Xhci setting in bios.
> Enable, disable or smart auto?


default
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chip94*
> 
> I've finalised on getting either the UD5H or the UD3H.
> The UD5H is out of stock over here and it'll take about 15days to get back in stock. I thought of going with the UD3H. However, my main concern is the sound on the UD3H. It's got a VIA chip instead of Realtek. Does it make a difference? I'm used to the realtek on my EP45. Should I take the UD3H? Its seems a real good board for the price!
> Thanks


no problem so far on games, but forget about updated drivers, i miss realtek for that, via never updates nothing


----------



## Chodi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> It's not clear what problem you're having with VIA usb3. Looks like the 4 ports in the back and the 2 headers at the bottom are VIA. Then the 1 header next to the DIMMs is Intel. Is that correct?


Actually all of the ports on the back have exhibited the problem. Believe me I have tried them all in every possible combination. I think the problem is the power regulation to the rear usb ports which is not going to be fixed with a bios upgrade. Ok, I should not have said it is impossible. Perhaps they can adjust that regulation through the bios. I have now been running for 14 hours without a single problem using the powered usb hub. Tomorrow I will move the hub to a back usb port to see if that is stable. If it is then we can assume it is the power regulation to the ports and a separate power source solves the problem. I will report on that result after I have it switched for several hours. Frankly, I never got through three hours straight before without some kind of usb burp so this is a valid test..


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> woring fine on single ahci (1 disk)
> default
> no problem so far on games, but forget about updated drivers, i miss realtek for that, via never updates nothing


Ok thx.


----------



## sl4y3r

Any one using the AMD HDMI Audio on thier Radeons with the UD3H. I Use the HDMI on my 6870 and Im scare of a possible conflict with that and the VIA chip, hence I'm re considering the AsRock Ex 4. any thoughs guys ?

I have a complicated 3D Tv setup going through a Yamaha AVR and I dont wanna have any issues.

Thanks


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> I just want to chime in once more,....... my board returned from RMA with none of the spoken USB issues mentioned in this thread. It had them and I made sure they knew it in detail in the letter in the box and on their form.
> I went looking for another MFG while it was away but the UDH5 has the layout and features I need over the rest so I backed off until It came back. I read reviews and forum comments on several MFG's and they all resemble an industry standard in this hobby of home custum building we do, none of them are without woes. ............. Loving the UHD5 now.
> Good Luck!


Was it repaired or replaced? If it was repaired it's likely all they did was update the BIOS in which case, it would be good knowing eventually they'll fix the problem using the BIOS for all the boards.
If it was replaced, then that is interesting. It would mean that the USB issues are definitely due to something faulty on the board.
I'm hesitant because the last thing I want to do is send in my board to be replaced and then the brand new board I get back ends up having the same issues or worse, DOA. If I'm going to spend an extra $15 to send the board back to Newegg, I want to know that what I'm getting back is better. That's why I've been pretty much fighting it out with the board. So far so good though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> It's not clear what problem you're having with VIA usb3. Looks like the 4 ports in the back and the 2 headers at the bottom are VIA. Then the 1 header next to the DIMMs is Intel. Is that correct?


Only my VIA USB 3 ports suffer any problems and that's usually when I have all my stuff plugged into them. Ever since I bought the bracket and put my USB 2 devices on there things have been smooth sailing. I believe the header by the DIMMs is Intel but I could be wrong. The way the wording is set up, it sounds like there's 2 Intel USB 3 onboard on the back under the LAN, 2 Intel USB 3 internal using the header and 6 USB 2.0 - these are the ports I never have a problem with (unless I need to get into the BIOS). They could be VIA too, I'm not sure. I can check the device manager and see. Either way, no problem with any of the USB 2 ports. Then the 4 on the back are VIA USB 3 (which generally have power very early on, so I use for BIOS entry), but are incredibly buggy.

For example, here is what I have...(all in my sig)

These are together as the keyboard is also a 2 port usb 2 hub. I used to put this on the Intel USB 3 port in the back:

G19 keyboard
Cordless Optical Trackball mouse

These are on my Kensington USB 2 hub (ref: USB A)

G930 wireless headset
RX595 Printer
Logitech Rumblepad (Gamepad)

My Belkin USB 2 Tetrahub is used for flash drives (ref: USB B)

I have 2 Seagate GoFlex USB 3 drives (ref: USB C/D)

Initially, I had issues when the keyboard was on the Intel port and then I plug anything into the VIA USB 3 ports. I tried all combinations, USB A on the Intel ports, USB B on the Intel ports, USB C/D on the VIA USB 3 ports, then all off and start over if I had a problem. USB A on VIA USB 3, USB B on Intel, USB C on VIA USB 3, USB D on Intel, etc. Nothing would work and the ports would bug out. Sometimes the devices just drop from my PC and never come back. Sometimes they drop and then come back a few mins later. I feared for my 2 hard drives with this set up.

When I got the bracket I put both hubs on it and moved the drives to the USB 3 Intel ports and put the keyboard on a VIA USB 3.0 port and that was it, everything ironed out. Haven't had a freeze or crash and my drives haven't dropped out since. My keyboard and mouse also haven't dropped out. Essentially, I'm only using 1 VIA USB 3.0 port and have no idea what would happen if I attempted to use more/all of them but it would be nice to be able to at some point if I ever needed to.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> Was it repaired or replaced? If it was repaired it's likely all they did was update the BIOS in which case, it would be good knowing eventually they'll fix the problem using the BIOS for all the boards.
> If it was replaced, then that is interesting. It would mean that the USB issues are definitely due to something faulty on the board.
> I'm hesitant because the last thing I want to do is send in my board to be replaced and then the brand new board I get back ends up having the same issues or worse, DOA. If I'm going to spend an extra $15 to send the board back to Newegg, I want to know that what I'm getting back is better. That's why I've been pretty much fighting it out with the board. So far so good though.
> Only my VIA USB 3 ports suffer any problems and that's usually when I have all my stuff plugged into them. Ever since I bought the bracket and put my USB 2 devices on there things have been smooth sailing. I believe the header by the DIMMs is Intel but I could be wrong. The way the wording is set up, it sounds like there's *2 Intel USB 3 onboard on the back under the LAN*, 2 Intel USB 3 internal using the header and 6 USB 2.0 - these are the ports I never have a problem with (unless I need to get into the BIOS). They could be VIA too, I'm not sure. I can check the device manager and see. Either way, no problem with any of the USB 2 ports. Then the 4 on the back are VIA USB 3 (which generally have power very early on, so I use for BIOS entry), but are incredibly buggy.
> For example, here is what I have...(all in my sig)
> These are together as the keyboard is also a 2 port usb 2 hub. I used to put this on *the Intel USB 3 port in the back*:
> G19 keyboard
> Cordless Optical Trackball mouse
> These are on my Kensington USB 2 hub (ref: USB A)
> G930 wireless headset
> RX595 Printer
> Logitech Rumblepad (Gamepad)
> My Belkin USB 2 Tetrahub is used for flash drives (ref: USB B)
> I have 2 Seagate GoFlex USB 3 drives (ref: USB C/D)
> Initially, I had issues when the keyboard was on the *Intel port* and then I plug anything into the VIA USB 3 ports. I tried all combinations, USB A on the Intel ports, USB B on the Intel ports, USB C/D on the VIA USB 3 ports, then all off and start over if I had a problem. USB A on VIA USB 3, USB B on Intel, USB C on VIA USB 3, USB D on Intel, etc. Nothing would work and the ports would bug out. Sometimes the devices just drop from my PC and never come back. Sometimes they drop and then come back a few mins later. I feared for my 2 hard drives with this set up.
> When I got the bracket I put both hubs on it and moved the drives to the *USB 3 Intel ports* and put the keyboard on a VIA USB 3.0 port and that was it, everything ironed out. Haven't had a freeze or crash and my drives haven't dropped out since. My keyboard and mouse also haven't dropped out. Essentially, I'm only using 1 VIA USB 3.0 port and have no idea what would happen if I attempted to use more/all of them but it would be nice to be able to at some point if I ever needed to.


According to the manual there are only 2 Intel USB3 ports (on the internal header). And 8 VIA usb3 ports, 4 in the back + 4 through 2 internal headers. So maybe you're referring to the wrong devices? My Logitech wireless trackball does not play nice with usb hubs either so maybe you're too quick to blame the mobo.

Also manual says, "_Due to a Windows 7 limitation, please connect your USB device(s) to the USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) before the Intel USB 3.0 controller driver is installed._"... not sure what they're trying to say here, maybe they imply that the VIA usb3 are not available at boot time. But I was able to boot a flash drive from usb3 in the back. In fact next week I'm getting a fast usb3 card reader and 95MB/sec UHS SDHC cards and expect to boot several portable OSes that way, which is huge for the UD5H.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> LOL, as I wrote before I am still running a GA 8iexp with a [email protected] GHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Built it in 2002, still going strong (so to speak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Too bad the bios won't let me use HDs bigger than 137 GB...
> But what I really mean with lives longer is that low temps reduce the chance of early failing.
> Besides, I am a strong supporter of recycling: a long-lived system can be used as a secondary computer (like the one I am about to replace) or, better yet, it could be given away to schools or to young people who cannot afford one.
> Yep, if the system is idle there is almost no difference in power consumption between 1.6GHZ and 4.5GHz settings. Intel did the right thing with their frequency scaling thingy. And yet, undervolting can slightly reduce power drain, even when idling.
> Here's a link to the only page I've found discussing undervolting an Ivy Bridge CPU: http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge . As you can see, temps go down with voltage, and so does power. (yeah, I know, very little, but it's better than nothing especially if one wants the system to be silent when idle, reading texts, browsing...)
> There really is no need for a system to suck 200W while it's sitting on its a**.
> I thought I could switch between 'power sipping' and 'daredevil overclocking' settings by just using profiles (but I am a total noob about that).


undervolting and overclcking ivy bridge really is kind of funny, the one reason he didn't write an oc guide instead is because i already had. Honestly unless you have a 5.3ghz gold CPU like I do or he does, then that might really NOT apply. Luck will have a lot to do with how much you can lower each CPUs voltage and temperatures. Best way to look at it, just go for the temperature, as on other boards like many asus and asrck there are no voltage read points to tell the real voltage, and many asrock boards are set to have cpuz report much less than is being fed. ASUS doesn't do that, however to do a real comparison upon boards would require a real voltage meter.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> According to the manual there are only 2 Intel USB3 ports (on the internal header). And 8 VIA usb3 ports, 4 in the back + 4 through 2 internal headers. So maybe you're referring to the wrong devices? My Logitech wireless trackball does not play nice with usb hubs either so maybe you're too quick to blame the mobo.
> Also manual says, "_Due to a Windows 7 limitation, please connect your USB device(s) to the USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) before the Intel USB 3.0 controller driver is installed._"... not sure what they're trying to say here, maybe they imply that the VIA usb3 are not available at boot time. But I was able to boot a flash drive from usb3 in the back. In fact next week I'm getting a fast usb3 card reader and 95MB/sec UHS SDHC cards and expect to boot several portable OSes that way, which is huge for the UD5H.


Intel USb 3.0 requires drivers to work as well, if you never install your drivers for the Intel USb 3.0 then you wil be limited to around 40mb/s on any native Intel port. intel USB 3.0 isn't that great man, look at my UP5 TH review, i tested and intel didn't do any better than any of the ports with VIA hubs.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Intel USb 3.0 requires drivers to work as well, if you never install your drivers for the Intel USb 3.0 then you wil be limited to around 40mb/s on any native Intel port. intel USB 3.0 isn't that great man, look at my UP5 TH review, i tested and intel didn't do any better than any of the ports with VIA hubs.


The good thing is that they *are bootable*, most of the early usb3 were not seen by the BIOS at boot time. I boot Linux mostly, so I assume that even if limited to 40MB/s at boot time, when the OS loads the drivers you'll get up to full usb3 speed. Am i assuming correctly? You can boot usb2 at its maximum speed, how long before usb3 can boot at full speed?


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> According to the manual there are only 2 Intel USB3 ports (on the internal header). And 8 VIA usb3 ports, 4 in the back + 4 through 2 internal headers. So maybe you're referring to the wrong devices? My Logitech wireless trackball does not play nice with usb hubs either so maybe you're too quick to blame the mobo.
> Also manual says, "_Due to a Windows 7 limitation, please connect your USB device(s) to the USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) before the Intel USB 3.0 controller driver is installed._"... not sure what they're trying to say here, maybe they imply that the VIA usb3 are not available at boot time. But I was able to boot a flash drive from usb3 in the back. In fact next week I'm getting a fast usb3 card reader and 95MB/sec UHS SDHC cards and expect to boot several portable OSes that way, which is huge for the UD5H.


Nope. I'm pretty sure of at the very least what all the USB 3 ports are. The 2 below the LAN for me are Intel USB 3 and the rest are VIA USB 3. The internals are mostly USB 2, I wasn't sure of which are which exactly but I do know that there's an internal USB 3 header which I don't use. All the USB 2 ports work fine...VIA or Intel, whatever they are (almost sure they're Intel). I don't get any USB 2 stuff dropping, just the VIA USB 3 on the back. Your board is different in that it contains 2 VIA hubs in addition to USB from the chipset. You have I think 4 VIA USB 3 on the back, 2 Intel USB 3 and 2 Intel USB 2 ports. I have 2 Intel USB 3 and 4 VIA USB 3 (all USB 3).

For me, the VIA USB 3 actually are available pre-boot, they just aren't available in the OS without drivers (for me, anyway). I guess they can't hand over to EHCI without drivers? /shrug. The Intel ones can and do. So if I, for example, use the VIA ports on the back when installing Windows, I'd have to switch it to the Intel ones as only those will work. My Manual deesn't say what yours does, it says: _"Due to a Windows 7 limitation, please connect your USB device(s) to the USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) before the VIA USB 3.0 controller driver is installed."_. I'm guessing they're just making sure people don't plug their keyboard and mouse into a USB 3 port to eliminate installation issues from losing them.

I have yet to try installing an OS from Flash on the VIA USB 3 port. I can boot to it to upgrade the BIOS but I'm not sure I could install or run an OS with it. I can with the Intel ones though.

Wouldn't it just be better to grab some fast usb 3 flash drives considering the cards are more expensive? Eg. Lexar Triton (rated at 150/150MBps) 16/32 is ~$47/72 and a 95MBps UHS SDHC is ~$42/80.
Just curious.


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> For me, the VIA USB 3 actually are available pre-boot, they just aren't available in the OS without drivers (for me, anyway). I guess they can't hand over to EHCI without drivers? /shrug. The Intel ones can and do. So if I, for example, use the VIA ports on the back when installing Windows, I'd have to switch it to the Intel ones as only those will work. My Manual deesn't say what yours does, it says: _"Due to a Windows 7 limitation, please connect your USB device(s) to the USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) before the VIA USB 3.0 controller driver is installed."_. I'm guessing they're just making sure people don't plug their keyboard and mouse into a USB 3 port to eliminate installation issues from losing them.


I've found that none of the VIA USB3 or USB2 ports are available at boot on my UD5H, only the ports running off the intel chipset are. Once Windows 7 is loaded they work fine.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> The good thing is that they *are bootable*, most of the early usb3 were not seen by the BIOS at boot time. I boot Linux mostly, so I assume that even if limited to 40MB/s at boot time, when the OS loads the drivers you'll get up to full usb3 speed. Am i assuming correctly? You can boot usb2 at its maximum speed, how long before usb3 can boot at full speed?


you have to install the Intel drivers, Windows 7 doesn't have a driver for Intel USB 3.0. It is just like any other USB 3.0 controller, however there are 4 of them built into the PCH.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> I've found that none of the VIA USB3 or USB2 ports are available at boot on my UD5H, only the ports running off the intel chipset are. Once Windows 7 is loaded they work fine.


VIA has no USB 2.0 ports on the board, and on your UD5H all the back panel ports are from Intel, and the USb 3.0 ones run through the VIA hub.
The VIA hub has no drivers, it is just a hub.

On the UD5H GIGABYTE uses a hub for all the USb 3.0 on the back as well as the internal. The ONLY USB 3.0 ports that don't run through a hub is the internal port furthest up on the board. Try to boot off of that one.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> ...
> Wouldn't it just be better to grab some fast usb 3 flash drives considering the cards are more expensive? Eg. Lexar Triton (rated at 150/150MBps) 16/32 is ~$47/72 and a 95MBps UHS SDHC is ~$42/80.
> Just curious.


I think it's the same thing, except you can use SDHC with cameras and other devices.


----------



## sixor

on my ud3h latest beta, i can boot my WD external with linux mint on the 4 ports (via and intel)

guys some help here

how can i update this weird drivers?

intel 7 series c216 chipset family smbus host controller 1e22
intel 82801 pci bridge 244e
standar ahci serial ata controller

using driver max, it shows those drivers as outdated, and i have latest intel drivers for everything


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> on my ud3h latest beta, i can boot my WD external with linux mint on the 4 ports (via and intel)
> 
> guys some help here
> how can i update this weird drivers?
> intel 7 series c216 chipset family smbus host controller 1e22
> intel 82801 pci bridge 244e
> standar ahci serial ata controller
> using driver max, it shows those drivers as outdated, and i have latest intel drivers for everything


Are you sure you're on the newest Intel drivers? The newest are dated 7/25/2012 vs. the ones from May. Intel releases them for Intel boards before they filter them to the general chipset section. Either way, perhaps that application is comparing based on that fact. You can get the newest Intel inf from Gigabyte website under Windows 8 64bit. It is the same drivers supplied by the Intel website for their own boards.

The last one might be the Marvell sata.


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> VIA has no USB 2.0 ports on the board, and on your UD5H all the back panel ports are from Intel, and the USb 3.0 ones run through the VIA hub.
> The VIA hub has no drivers, it is just a hub.
> On the UD5H GIGABYTE uses a hub for all the USb 3.0 on the back as well as the internal. The ONLY USB 3.0 ports that don't run through a hub is the internal port furthest up on the board. Try to boot off of that one.


Sorry got a little confused with which ports are from which chips. My wired keyboard, mouse and other devices are recongised at boot when plugged into all rear usb ports, F_USB30_1 and F_USB2, but not when using a header from F_USB2, F_USB30_2 and F_USB30_3.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Was it repaired or replaced? If it was repaired it's likely all they did was update the BIOS in which case, it would be good knowing eventually they'll fix the problem using the BIOS for all the boards.
> If it was replaced, then that is interesting. It would mean that the USB issues are definitely due to something faulty on the board.
> I'm hesitant because the last thing I want to do is send in my board to be replaced and then the brand new board I get back ends up having the same issues or worse, DOA. If I'm going to spend an extra $15 to send the board back to Newegg, I want to know that what I'm getting back is better. That's why I've been pretty much fighting it out with the board. So far so good though.


I don't know if it was repaired or replaced. I cannot find the darned serial number. I have it recorded but swear IO cannot locate it on the board. Was it not on a white sticker?

The main BIOS was F8 and the 2nd was F7.

The board is working fantastic.


----------



## mastabog

Hope for a kind soul to answer these below (a search was not very revealing).

I have purchased an ASRock Z77 Extreme6 with 4x8GB GEIL 2400 MHz CL11. It doesn't work at 2400 MHz no matter what I try. Reading around, the Z77 Extreme4/6 have been reported by people to not work well with 2400 sticks, especially 4 of them. I posted here some interesting details, with collected links from other forums:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1254599/official-asrock-z77-discussion-owners-club/1380#post_17828287
http://www.overclock.net/t/1254599/official-asrock-z77-discussion-owners-club/1390#post_17833791

Each stick works fine individually at 2400 MHz. Any two sticks work fine but only if they are in placed in Channel 2 (slots A2 and B2). They crap out on Channel 1 (slots A1 and B1). Four sticks crap out every time.

However, four sticks work fine at 2200 MHz, even with lower timings (10-11-11-28). At 2400 MHz, no matter what I try, even the loosest of timings, it just craps out. Prime95 dies within seconds. Apps crash like crazy. GEIL even provided me with a beta bios that has more mem options, automatically puts more vDRAM and VTT. Still no luck and seems to apply more correct timings read from XMP. Still no luck.

I'm *not* looking to overclock (yet). I paid a premium for this memory and cpu because I actually need the speed and the "rated" stability.

*Questions about the UD3H, UD5H or UP5:*

- Do the they work fine with 4 sticks of 8GB that are rated at 2400 MHz *AND* 1.65v? Anyone tested or have such a config?
- If the XMP profile is poor, can these board manually set 1.65 v for DRAM? -- I heard all sort of stories about the Z77X UD3/5H not working with 1.65v DRAM
- Most of my fans are 3pin, i.e. not PWM. Do the UD3H or UD5H allow to set the fan speed in any way for 3pin fans?

I know they are great boards otherwise. I just no longer have the free time to experiment so I'm asking the experienced experts.

Cheers!


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastabog*
> 
> - If the XMP profile is poor, can these board manually set 1.65 v for DRAM? -- I heard all sort of stories about the Z77X UD3/5H not working with 1.65v DRAM
> - Most of my fans are 3pin, i.e. not PWM. Do the UD3H or UD5H allow to set the fan speed in any way for 3pin fans?
> I know they are great boards otherwise. I just no longer have the free time to experiment so I'm asking the experienced experts.
> Cheers!


1. Yes, you can set it manually.
2. Only on 2 Fan headers (CPU + the other).

this is for UD3H and UD5H, not sure about UP5.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> - If the XMP profile is poor, can these board manually set 1.65 v for DRAM? -- I heard all sort of stories about the Z77X UD3/5H not working with 1.65v DRAM


The XMP on mine does a fine job setting the my RAM to the 1.65v and timings recommended by Kingston and I can do it manually. See my specs.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> Are you sure you're on the newest Intel drivers? The newest are dated 7/25/2012 vs. the ones from May. Intel releases them for Intel boards before they filter them to the general chipset section. Either way, perhaps that application is comparing based on that fact. You can get the newest Intel inf from Gigabyte website under Windows 8 64bit. It is the same drivers supplied by the Intel website for their own boards.
> The last one might be the Marvell sata.


cool thanks, didn´t knew there were new drivers

will try them


----------



## Matt-Matt

Does/Will Gigabyte allow spread spectrum to be disabled? It annoys my how my processor doesn't sit on exactly 4.6GHz or 4.8 when it boosts..
It's much easier to get stable is spread spectrum is disabled so I hear, but I can't seem to find an option for it on my Z77x-D3H









EDIT: Mailed Gigabyte support and asked if it will ever be supported and if it is now where it is on my board. I also asked if they still use the hidden bios menu (Ctrl +F1) and explained that I did it on my EP45-UD3P to change a few useful settings, I asked them that if they still do what the combination was


----------



## sena

Anyone knows when HD 7990 is coming out, i am tempted for CFX, but i am afraid of heat problems with one more HD 7950.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Anyone knows when HD 7990 is coming out, i am tempted for CFX, but i am afraid of heat problems with one more HD 7950.


I've got a 932 with two 6850's.. They idle rather high but it's fine with two. That being said it depends on the style of cooler on them. You'll want a reference on (with a blower) due to pushing the air out the back. I made this mistake and I get moderate temps with a few tweaks to my case airflow.

2x 7950 will allow for a better overclock (or should do).


----------



## sena

Hehe, wrong forum, i thought i posted in HD 7900 section.
My bad, but thx matt.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Hehe, wrong forum, i thought i posted in HD 7900 section.
> My bad, but thx matt.


Yeah, I thought you had a Gigabyte board..








Oh well, we all make mistakes!


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastabog*
> 
> ...
> *Questions about the UD3H, UD5H or UP5:*
> - Most of my fans are 3pin, i.e. not PWM. Do the UD3H or UD5H allow to set the fan speed in any way for 3pin fans?


For the UD5H, the answer in on page 27 of the manual, though not very explicit:

CPU fan -- works with both 3-pin and PWM fans.

SYS_FAN1-- works OK with 3-pin but runs at 1/2 speed with PWM i.e. too slow.

SYS_FAN2/3 -- works with pwm only , with 3-pin there's no speed control i.e. runs at full speed

SYS_FAN4 -- no speed control with with either type fan.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> Sorry got a little confused with which ports are from which chips. My wired keyboard, mouse and other devices are recongised at boot when plugged into all rear usb ports, F_USB30_1 and F_USB2, but not when using a header from F_USB2, F_USB30_2 and F_USB30_3.


See my post on the previous page or check the manual. *USB2* has been around for years, it should work as expected and all ports should be bootable.

Only *USB3* is at issue here. As per manual, F_USB30_1 is the only Intel usb3 on the board. All other internal *and* external usb3 are VIA. I've booted a flash drive off the usb3 in the back (VIA) but I haven't yet tried F_USB30_2 and F_USB30_3 at the bottom of the mobo. It would be strange if these are not bootable whereas the ones in the back are.


----------



## colcbp

Morning. Just a quick question from a newbee w/ new UD5H. Came across a steal for two ssd, one OCZ @ 120GB to fit msata and one Intel @ 160GB, 1.8" new pull from laptop. Just today installed the msata ssd and installed Win7 Pro X64 to use the 120GB as C Drive. Originally, I was thinking to use the 160GB as basically a storage drive for quick removal of data files and carry with me to winter home or store off site when away for business and house is empty. But have started thinking maybe would be worthwhile using part of the 160GB to accelerate data storage to larger HD. I think I read elsewhere that I would have to set up RAID configuration containing portion of the SSD (32GB?) and the HD to be accelerated. Would appreciate pointers to a couple of areas which I just can't find even though I've searched all through these forums (probably my bad because I just don't know how to ask for what I need.) Until today, I never considered I might have a need for RAID so have ignored the subject.

1. Do I have to pay particular attention to which SATA connectors on the UD5H I use to establish the SATA, since the mSata will not be involved?
2. Do I have to format/partition the 160GB SSD in any particular fashion?
3. Where should I look for more details regarding setting up RAID?

Many, many thanks for letting me interrupt.

Chuck Parker, Las Vegas


----------



## barkeater

probably be more appropriate to ask this in the "RAID Controllers and Software" section.


----------



## Greg4422

Okay... you have 2 SSD's and you'd like you use one of them for Intel Smart Repsonse Technology (SRT) to increase the performance of a larger HDD? There's actually a utilty on the driver disk that's sets everthing up for you... so you won't have the re-install your OS
called GIGABYTE EZ Setup.

http://www.gigabyte.com/microsite/306/images/ez-setup.html

You may also want to install Rapid Start and Smart Connect, since you have a large enough SDD.






You can use either of the 2 SSD's as a cache drive for a larger HDD, so decide which of the 2 have the best performance as SRT can only be used atm to cache one drive, (and it doesn't make sense to use it to cache another SDD)

Just keep in mind if you use the msata....sata port 5 won't be operational


----------



## gotasavage2

Hey all,
I recently upgraded my sig rig and i have a few problems/concerns about my UD5H, Im running F8 bios as well.
1: My mouse lags and is really slow moving in bios, is this normal?
2: My PC will not wake up from sleep, the only way is to push the power button on the case...


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotasavage2*
> 
> Hey all,
> I recently upgraded my sig rig and i have a few problems/concerns about my UD5H, Im running F8 bios as well.
> *1: My mouse lags and is really slow moving in bios, is this normal?*
> 2: My PC will not wake up from sleep, the only way is to push the power button on the case...


The mouse lagging in bios is normal.. It uses a generic driver and I assume this is why.








As for the PC not waking up from sleep... Well I don't know.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotasavage2*
> 
> Hey all,
> I recently upgraded my sig rig and i have a few problems/concerns about my UD5H, Im running F8 bios as well.
> 
> 2: My PC will not wake up from sleep, the only way is to push the power button on the case...


Go into control panel and power options and under the plan you have selected chose "Change advanced power settings".
Expand the "Sleep" category and look at the "Hibernate after" item and make sure it is set to *never*. Hibernation is for laptops in my book.
The "Allow hybrid sleep" is OK set to yes.

Then........

Go into device manager and have a look at your mouse and your keyboard's properties.
In each one you may have more than one in the list even though you only have one mouse and k-board connected.
Regardless, do a properties on them all and if they have a "Power Management" tab, select it and see if the "Allow this device to wake the computer" is selected. If not select it.
Do them all and restart.
Go back and see if they held their settings.
If they did, put her to sleep and move the mouse or tap the space bar.

Good Luck To Ya.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotasavage2*
> 
> Hey all,
> I recently upgraded my sig rig and i have a few problems/concerns about my UD5H, Im running F8 bios as well.
> 1: My mouse lags and is really slow moving in bios, is this normal?
> 2: My PC will not wake up from sleep, the only way is to push the power button on the case...


try a new BIOS: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647

There are two F8 BIOSes try the later one, or try one of the F9 BETAs. Hey man when you do this try them on your backup BIOS. Turn the PC off and flick the dual BIOS switch, boot up into that BIOS, and flash to the new BIOS you want to try, however PLEASE FLASH WITH A USB STICK. Put the BIOS ROM on a USB stick formatted in FAT32.

What F9 betas work well for you guys?


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotasavage2*
> 
> Hey all,
> I recently upgraded my sig rig and i have a few problems/concerns about my UD5H, Im running F8 bios as well.
> 1: My mouse lags and is really slow moving in bios, is this normal?
> 2: My PC will not wake up from sleep, the only way is to push the power button on the case...


I see you're running an SSD, and not resuming from sleep is a common problem with these types of drives. I haven't been able to find a direct fix but have used MCE Standby Tool on my HTPC which fixed the problem. It will automatically adjust all of the power management settings in widows based on how you want the pc to behave.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Go into control panel and power options and under the plan you have selected chose "Change advanced power settings".
> Expand the "Sleep" category and look at the "Hibernate after" item and make sure it is set to *never*. Hibernation is for laptops in my book.
> The "Allow hybrid sleep" is OK set to yes.


Hybrid sleep is essentially hibernation. When the PC sleeps in hybrid mode it maintains the current state to RAM and also writes to a hibernation file. This ensures that if the power is disconnected it can resume the current state from the hibernation file instead of RAM.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> *I see you're running an SSD*, and not resuming from sleep is a common problem with these types of drives.


If you're running an SSD why not just shutdown?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> *I see you're running an SSD*, and not resuming from sleep is a common problem with these types of drives.
> 
> 
> 
> If you're running an SSD why not just shutdown?
Click to expand...

This. From pressing the power button to fully loaded Windows 7 desktop is less than 20 seconds.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> This. From pressing the power button to fully loaded Windows 7 desktop is less than 20 seconds.


No matter how you look at it, successful sleep is way, way, way faster than a cold start. In fact sleeping and coming out of it on a spinner is still much quicker than cold booting an SSD so if someone wants to sleep their PC and are forced instead to shutdown it would immediately negate one of the benefits of owning an SSD, excluding of course, every day operations being faster.

Personally I don't sleep my PC but that's only because I use it as a server/nas for music/video but as soon as I buy a true NAS I'll have to tackle the sleep issue as well. I used to sleep my HTPC but stopped doing that as well. I may resume doing it once I put Windows 8 on it. My UD3H has/had problems with sleeping Sandforce SSDs - I was hoping the fix would be Everest 2 but another user on here has reported the same problem. It can't be SSDs in general though since some folks have said that they have no problem going into and coming out of sleep mode so, next challenge for me is coming up.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> This. From pressing the power button to fully loaded Windows 7 desktop is less than 20 seconds.
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how you look at it, successful sleep is way, way, way faster than a cold start. In fact sleeping and coming out of it on a spinner is still much quicker than cold booting an SSD so if someone wants to sleep their PC and are forced instead to shutdown it would immediately negate one of the benefits of owning an SSD, excluding of course, every day operations being faster.
> 
> Personally I don't sleep my PC but that's only because I use it as a server/nas for music/video but as soon as I buy a true NAS I'll have to tackle the sleep issue as well. I used to sleep my HTPC but stopped doing that as well. I may resume doing it once I put Windows 8 on it. My UD3H has/had problems with sleeping Sandforce SSDs - I was hoping the fix would be Everest 2 but another user on here has reported the same problem. It can't be SSDs in general though since some folks have said that they have no problem going into and coming out of sleep mode so, next challenge for me is coming up.
Click to expand...

I agree it is faster, but to lose 19 seconds daily is hardly the end of the world. The feature causes more trouble than it's worth I find. May as well just eliminate it. If I could shed my beer belly through 19 seconds of exercise a day, I'd totally fill that block of time with that.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I agree it is faster, but to lose 19 seconds daily is hardly the end of the world. The feature causes more trouble than it's worth I find. May as well just eliminate it. If I could shed my beer belly through 19 seconds of exercise a day, I'd totally fill that block of time with that.


This,

I usually do something while my PC boots..
Take the rubbish out, make a Ethernet cable (at least half), or grab a drink/snack.

Otherwise I'm on the phone or texting waiting for it to boot, there is the odd time where I'll sit and wait for about 15 seconds though


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> If you're running an SSD why not just shutdown?


It depends what you use your pc for. I shutdown my gaming pc as it boots quick enough (the bios post takes 50% of my boot time). On my HTPC I put it into sleep as I need it to automatically wake up to record tv shows, which can't happen from S4 or S5. Also a 20 boot has low WAF compared to a 2 second resume


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> It depends what you use your pc for. I shutdown my gaming pc as it boots quick enough (the bios post takes 50% of my boot time). On my HTPC I put it into sleep as I need it to automatically wake up to record tv shows, which can't happen from S4 or S5. Also a 20 boot has low WAF compared to a 2 second resume


Point.. Personally I just leave the PC on and turn the screen/speakers/backlit keyboard off. My processor consumes 10w at idle and probably less with absolutely nothing open. This is really good for updates etc while I do something like mow the lawns!


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Point.. Personally I just leave the PC on and turn the screen/speakers/backlit keyboard off. My processor consumes 10w at idle and probably less with absolutely nothing open. This is really good for updates etc while I do something like mow the lawns!


That's pretty good idle consumption, most pcs consume 5w in sleep.The screens tend to be the biggest power hogs on most standard spec systems (ie not the sort most people here have) these days for normal use.

I once saw a statistic that said (I probably don't have it 100% right) if everyone in the US turned off their devices instead of putting them in standby, no new power stations would be needed there for 10 years.


----------



## snipekill2445

When I wait for my PC to boot for 30 seconds I...

Go for a 5Km Run.

Eat Breakfast.

So some school work.

Go for a ride on my motorbike.

Watch some Top gear on TV.

And come back just in time to type in the password









Just kidding


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> When I wait for my PC to boot for 30 seconds I...
> Go for a 5Km Run.
> Eat Breakfast.
> So some school work.
> Go for a ride on my motorbike.
> Watch some Top gear on TV.
> And come back just in time to type in the password
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kidding


Aha! Superman...you're superman!

But seriously....true, 20-30s isn't a long time but 2-3s is ultimately way quicker. I really hate having certain capabilities and not being able to use them - not like not being able to drive my car at 130mph (though technically I COULD if I wouldn't end up in jail or dead), but sleep is a feature of the OS and board and to not be able to for some reason is not cool. Then there are all these extra things put in to make sleep better - ErP, Rapid Start, Smart Connect, etc., it feels like you're paying for features you just _can't_ use.

Telling someone not to use it to avoid the problem is likewise, not cool. lol.

I'm sure there's a way to make it work. Just takes some extra effort I guess.


----------



## barkeater

I have been playing with the sleep mode and have had my issues as well. Most recently I had found that my pc would not enter sleep mode even though I had enabled the "Balanced" mode in windows. Upon troubleshooting I disabled all of the wake on LAN options. That seemed to help but from time to time I am unable to wake and have to do a hard shutdown by holding the power button for several seconds then powering back up. Sometimes it comes out of sleep without a problem and I have yet to be able to figure that one out yet.

I like the sleep function even though my ssd boots very fast because I run a music server, and in order to access my music library, the computer must be on. I don't like the idea of leaving my computer on all the time so the sleep option seems to be the most useful option. However, it is also true that sleep does introduce instability with a computer that you are OC'ing (be it the ram, cpu and/or gpu). Therefore, just for troubleshooting the sleep issue, I have set my system to stock settings.

I have also found that other things can interfere with sleep such as scheduled tasks. I'm still investigating this one as I suspect that there may be scheduled tasks enabled that I will want to change/remove, as well as some services.


----------



## Khaled G

Add me, please
Z77X-UD3H-WB WiFi


----------



## sena

Guys, how much PCI-E Wifi card worth that comes with UD3 and UD5?
And if anyone know some specs info.
Maybe i have customer for it.


----------



## Sin0822

i think it is most likely worth 20-30. I think it is worth it to get it with wifi/bt if you are going to end up buying one anyways, also it isn't integrated so you can use it on another system if you upgrade.


----------



## gotasavage2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> I see you're running an SSD, and not resuming from sleep is a common problem with these types of drives. I haven't been able to find a direct fix but have used MCE Standby Tool on my HTPC which fixed the problem. It will automatically adjust all of the power management settings in widows based on how you want the pc to behave.
> Hybrid sleep is essentially hibernation. When the PC sleeps in hybrid mode it maintains the current state to RAM and also writes to a hibernation file. This ensures that if the power is disconnected it can resume the current state from the hibernation file instead of RAM.


Thanks, I'll look in to that program.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> This. From pressing the power button to fully loaded Windows 7 desktop is less than 20 seconds.


I understand this, its not necessarily about the time it takes, its the fact that it just does not work and it did on my old rig, with the same SSD.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> If you're running an SSD why not just shutdown?


Well, because I like using sleep, and i paid for this more for this mobo so i expect it to work as intended
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> try a new BIOS: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647
> There are two F8 BIOSes try the later one, or try one of the F9 BETAs. Hey man when you do this try them on your backup BIOS. Turn the PC off and flick the dual BIOS switch, boot up into that BIOS, and flash to the new BIOS you want to try, however PLEASE FLASH WITH A USB STICK. Put the BIOS ROM on a USB stick formatted in FAT32.
> What F9 betas work well for you guys?


I will try one of the beta BIOSes later, and why on the back up BIOS? isnt that a back up for when something goes terribly wrong?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Go into control panel and power options and under the plan you have selected chose "Change advanced power settings".
> Expand the "Sleep" category and look at the "Hibernate after" item and make sure it is set to *never*. Hibernation is for laptops in my book.
> The "Allow hybrid sleep" is OK set to yes.
> Then........
> Go into device manager and have a look at your mouse and your keyboard's properties.
> In each one you may have more than one in the list even though you only have one mouse and k-board connected.
> Regardless, do a properties on them all and if they have a "Power Management" tab, select it and see if the "Allow this device to wake the computer" is selected. If not select it.
> Do them all and restart.
> Go back and see if they held their settings.
> If they did, put her to sleep and move the mouse or tap the space bar.
> Good Luck To Ya.


I have hibernation disabled... and they were all set to Allow this device to wake the computer. so that didn't work but thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> The mouse lagging in bios is normal.. It uses a generic driver and I assume this is why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the PC not waking up from sleep... Well I don't know.


Thanks, its annoying considering my friends mouse works as normal on his cheaper Asrock extreme4 mobo, and it does not have any sleep problems.


----------



## sixor

maybe it is the bios/board fault, or your unstablle overclock

my ud3h sleeps nice, using f12j, i don´t oc the ram


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Guys, how much PCI-E Wifi card worth that comes with UD3 and UD5?
> And if anyone know some specs info.
> Maybe i have customer for it.


I swear I already posted this but it does not show. That card is very nice. I have been comparing it to my Laptop adapter and another USB adapter I liked for Range and strength and my WiFi card blows them away. Take no less than the difference in the price of the board without the card.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> maybe it is the bios/board fault, or your unstablle overclock
> my ud3h sleeps nice, using f12j, i don´t oc the ram


I really think the sleep thing is Windows.


----------



## gotasavage2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotasavage2*
> 
> Hey all,
> I recently upgraded my sig rig and i have a few problems/concerns about my UD5H, Im running F8 bios as well.
> 1: My mouse lags and is really slow moving in bios, is this normal?
> 2: My PC will not wake up from sleep, the only way is to push the power button on the case...


Well i figured it out and its pretty simple actually. It will not wake up at all from sleep from my Logitech G15 keyboard, but it will clicking my mouse, but only sometimes... so i think my mouse G500 is dying, it just recently started having other issues as well.


----------



## sena

Hehe, thx guys, i already have wifi card and UD5H board, but one my friend is looking for decent PCI-E wifi card, and i was thinking to sell him mine, because i dont use it, and i probably wont in near future.
That is reason why i went with wifi version of the UD5H, because it was only couple of euros more expensive.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotasavage2*
> 
> Well i figured it out and its pretty simple actually. It will not wake up at all from sleep from my Logitech G15 keyboard, but it will clicking my mouse, but only sometimes... so i think my mouse G500 is dying, it just recently started having other issues as well.


The G15 is a usb hub right? Did you check "allow this device to wake computer" in the device manager?


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Hehe, thx guys, i already have wifi card and UD5H board, but one my friend is looking for decent PCI-E wifi card, and i was thinking to sell him mine, because i dont use it, and i probably wont in near future.
> That is reason why i went with wifi version of the UD5H, because it was only couple of euros more expensive.


Other than the short antenna cable he should love it. The Bluetooth side is not bad either.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Other than the short antenna cable he should love it. The Bluetooth side is not bad either.


Thx mate for help. +1


----------



## Matt-Matt

Is there anywhere I can get the add in card for the Bluetooth + Wifi? At the moment I'm using a PCI-E wifi card and USB bluetooth dongle off eBay for $1.. It works but yeah.

The external antenna would be good too, I'd probably end up mounting them internally somehow even. Or hooking it up to the case as an antenna? (If that's possible).


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Is there anywhere I can get the add in card for the Bluetooth + Wifi? At the moment I'm using a PCI-E wifi card and USB bluetooth dongle off eBay for $1.. It works but yeah.
> The external antenna would be good too, I'd probably end up mounting them internally somehow even. Or hooking it up to the case as an antenna? (If that's possible).


If i dont sell it to my friend, i can sell this to you, shipping would be pretty cheap i think.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Point.. Personally I just leave the PC on and turn the screen/speakers/backlit keyboard off. My processor consumes 10w at idle and probably less with absolutely nothing open. This is really good for updates etc while I do something like mow the lawns!


10 W is the cpu only, I believe. Then there's the mobo, the power supply (they are not very efficient with light loads), the hard disk or ssd electronics (not to mention the power needed to spin the mechanical disks before they go to sleep, if ever). It is more likely your system will drain (or better, waste) some 50-60 W, possibly even more, even 100 W.
I can almost see flocks of dolphins dying in the middle of a fire in the Rain Forest, because of that.


----------



## frequency10

Hey guys, i have a Z77X-UD3H, this ram is compatible with my motherboard? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-DOMINATOR-Platinum-2400MHz-CMD16GX3M4A2400C9/dp/B0089GLPR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344000132&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+dominator+platinum+16gb


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frequency10*
> 
> Hey guys, i have a Z77X-UD3H, this ram is compatible with my motherboard? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-DOMINATOR-Platinum-2400MHz-CMD16GX3M4A2400C9/dp/B0089GLPR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344000132&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+dominator+platinum+16gb


Ummm...YES! Sexy ram, wish I could afford it.


----------



## 2therock

Holy Mother of the GODS!!!!



I flashed F9q, made sure I set it to RAID, did my memory configs, saved and exited.

She went to windows and I shut her down. I pulled the wired keyboard and inserted the Logitech K350 Wireless keyboard into a USB 2.0 case port on the front of my box and booted.

The Logitech K350 Wireless keyboard does not have caps or num-lock lights that would indicate when she connects so I just held the delete key and SHE WENT INTO BIOS!

It gets better, my wireless Logitech MX Revolution mouse moves around the BIOS very nicely!

Last and by far not the least, I have a dated external dual bay Guardian box connected via eSATA. Until today when doing a cold boot with I would stick at one of two places, the Megatrends Logo or after that at a blinking cursor on a blank screen. This would happen every time and only a reset button would cure it.

Not any more! I need a Happy Happy, Joy Joy Ren and Stimpy .gif.


----------



## Sin0822

good to hear


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Holy Mother of the GODS!!!!
> 
> I flashed F9q, made sure I set it to RAID, did my memory configs, saved and exited.
> She went to windows and I shut her down. I pulled the wired keyboard and inserted the Logitech K350 Wireless keyboard into a USB 2.0 case port on the front of my box and booted.
> The Logitech K350 Wireless keyboard does not have caps or num-lock lights that would indicate when she connects so I just held the delete key and SHE WENT INTO BIOS!
> It gets better, my wireless Logitech MX Revolution mouse moves around the BIOS very nicely!
> Last and by far not the least, I have a dated external dual bay Guardian box connected via eSATA. Until today when doing a cold boot with I would stick at one of two places, the Megatrends Logo or after that at a blinking cursor on a blank screen. This would happen every time and only a reset button would cure it.
> Not any more! I need a Happy Happy, Joy Joy Ren and Stimpy .gif.


I'm happy for you.

I updated to 12l for the ud3h and now the VIA usb 3 ports seem to be a tad more stable but my usb 2 ports are now iffy. Both my hubs were flawless, now I have to unplug and plug stuff in for some of the devices to work properly.

They seem to be on the right track. They're bound to get it right soon enough...


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> If i dont sell it to my friend, i can sell this to you, shipping would be pretty cheap i think.


Yeah, maybe









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> 10 W is the cpu only, I believe. Then there's the mobo, the power supply (they are not very efficient with light loads), the hard disk or ssd electronics (not to mention the power needed to spin the mechanical disks before they go to sleep, if ever). It is more likely your system will drain (or better, waste) some 50-60 W, possibly even more, even 100 W.
> I can almost see flocks of dolphins dying in the middle of a fire in the Rain Forest, because of that.


I suppose you're right, I only leave it on though while I'm going to be quick to get back to it..


----------



## QuackPot

Here's my UD5H.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## stasio

Good to know that latest Beta BIOS's improving.


----------



## mandrix

I've been staying away from beta's lately, but I decided to flash the F9q. Seems to be up to snuff! Everything smooth, I swear I was able to drop my offset a little for my OC. I know, makes no sense but I'll take all the voltage reduction I can get.

On another note my newest 3770K turned out to be a high heat dog! With custom water cooling I was hitting 89c running 8K fft's in Prime 95 with x45 overclock. That just sucks, and the cpu has been relegated to my back up rig. I had already lapped it before install so I guess I'll just have to live with it.
Here's one of my UD5H rigs, at the time of pic I had a 2 pump setup, but back to one now:


----------



## bgbop15

Has anyone else had weird issues with the UD5H and Crucial M4? Just spent 8 hours trying to figure out why i cant boot to windows or windows etup with the M4 plugged in, but finally was able to boot and install windows 7 on the m4 just by having another hard drive plugged in along side it.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgbop15*
> 
> Has anyone else had weird issues with the UD5H and Crucial M4? Just spent 8 hours trying to figure out why i cant boot to windows or windows etup with the M4 plugged in, but finally was able to boot and install windows 7 on the m4 just by having another hard drive plugged in along side it.


Mine has worked perfectly with my M4.


----------



## s4e8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Good to know that latest Beta BIOS's improving.


F9q is best so far for UD5H. PLL voltage and CSM control coming back, and NO MORE double reset on cold boot (old BIOS will reset once if enable XMP prpfile and another if prefer iGPU to dGPU).


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgbop15*
> 
> Has anyone else had weird issues with the UD5H and Crucial M4? Just spent 8 hours trying to figure out why i cant boot to windows or windows etup with the M4 plugged in, but finally was able to boot and install windows 7 on the m4 just by having another hard drive plugged in along side it.


when you install windows disconnect every other drive

windows is dumb putting mbr, gpt, stuff, always put in in another secondary drive WTH


----------



## nascarmon

Hi guys. Well, I got my UD5H (shipped with F7 BIOS), and installed the cpu (i5 ivy core) and ram (kingston hyperX genesis 8GB) without a hitch. Everything seems stable at stock speeds (haven't done OCing experiments yet). However, it rebooted when I put it to sleep then woke it up yesterday. Not too concerned though since I'm running an old Earthwatts 380 watt PSU. Ordered an Antec NEO ECO 620C and should receive it by monday. Now there's only the video card to buy. Right now I'm eying an MSI AMD Radeon HD 7950 3GB TWIN FROZR which I hope to order this week for a good price. my question is this: I plan to overclock the 7950 to 7970 stats but heard the motherboard won't boot if it detects an OC on this particular GPU. Is there a workaround for this? Also, anyone else using this Gigabyte MB/MSI GPU combo? Hope they play well together.


----------



## Yor_

My system won't boot with F9q.


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgbop15*
> 
> Has anyone else had weird issues with the UD5H and Crucial M4? Just spent 8 hours trying to figure out why i cant boot to windows or windows etup with the M4 plugged in, but finally was able to boot and install windows 7 on the m4 just by having another hard drive plugged in along side it.


Have you updated the drive to the latest firmware? There were a few issues with the original release version.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Holy Mother of the GODS!!!!
> 
> I flashed F9q, made sure I set it to RAID, did my memory configs, saved and exited.
> She went to windows and I shut her down. I pulled the wired keyboard and inserted the Logitech K350 Wireless keyboard into a USB 2.0 case port on the front of my box and booted.
> The Logitech K350 Wireless keyboard does not have caps or num-lock lights that would indicate when she connects so I just held the delete key and SHE WENT INTO BIOS!
> It gets better, my wireless Logitech MX Revolution mouse moves around the BIOS very nicely!
> Last and by far not the least, I have a dated external dual bay Guardian box connected via eSATA. Until today when doing a cold boot with I would stick at one of two places, the Megatrends Logo or after that at a blinking cursor on a blank screen. This would happen every time and only a reset button would cure it.
> Not any more! I need a Happy Happy, Joy Joy Ren and Stimpy .gif.


I am so glad for you, bro. I know what hell you have been through and see you stick it out and get things resolved. Bravo


----------



## 2therock

F9q shows me running a little lower core voltage in CPUID during an IBT on very high.
F8 had it maxing @ 1.232. It doesn't get over 1.212 now.
My hottest core doesn't go over 79°c now when it usually tickles 80°c a little.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> F9q shows me running a little lower core voltage in CPUID during an IBT on very high.
> F8 had it maxing @ 1.232. It doesn't get over 1.212 now.
> My hottest core doesn't go over 79°c now when it usually tickles 80°c a little.


Dont trust CPUID with these boards, i checked with multimeter and its different story.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Dont trust CPUID with these boards, i checked with multimeter and its different story.


That is the truth. 1.272 in software is actually 1.29x via voltage points on one of my boards.
The software is good enough I think to show the general voltage trend when you're overclocking, although it's not truly linear. I tend to use HWINFO these days after the deal with cpuid a while back showing vtt instead of vcore. Not banging on cpuid, but HWINFO 64 bit version seems to be updated pretty often.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Dont trust CPUID with these boards, i checked with multimeter and its different story.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> That is the truth. 1.272 in software is actually 1.29x via voltage points on one of my boards.
> The software is good enough I think to show the general voltage trend when you're overclocking, although it's not truly linear. I tend to use HWINFO these days after the deal with cpuid a while back showing vtt instead of vcore. Not banging on cpuid, but HWINFO 64 bit version seems to be updated pretty often.


I see. Well, its still lower. All the results were from the same program eh? Gonna look at HWINFO too.


----------



## 2therock

Take care in downloading the latest Prime95 27.7 Build2, It came to me, from the Prime95 site with a virus called *VirTool:Win32/obfuscator.xz*

Lucky MSE caught it and quarantined it. I then went atfer it the hard way with this method and none of the strings or files were there. Looks like MSE did good.
http://blog.teesupport.com/how-to-remove-virtoolwin32obfuscator-xz-completely-and-effectively-step-by-step-removal/

When it hit during the downloaded file virus scan MSE was in a fight my with HDD's grinding like crazy.

Got some info here too.


----------



## McDoney

Hey,

any ideas why my machine freezes while playing (any) game? At the moment I am using my onboard VGA since the waterblock is still in transfer.
Any game freezes hard after playing for 10-20 minutes.
NO OC!
All stock values.

Linx and Prime run for hours (at least 3h for Linx) without any problems. Benchmarks like the Metro 2033 Benchmark run for 10 passes without problems.
Furmark runs 15 Minutes Burn In Test without Problems.

My rig:
GA Z77 UD5H, F8 (31/05/2012)
i7-3770K, 3500 MHz
Using the onboard Sound atm. (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
Using onboard iGFX atm. (Driver 8.15.10.2696)
PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt

I notice, my SB Temp is really hig (Screenshot provided).

SB.Temp.JPG 36k .JPG file


Any Ideas?

Don

@DaClownie:
Suspecting my onboard sound is idiotic. Metro 2033 Bench is using sound. 3DMark11 Demos are also using sound.
Temp sounds like a good candidate. Can you recommend a good HW Monitor with continous logging feature? I am using AID64.

Additional Addendum:
I experience no crashes/freezes in windowed mode. ***?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> any ideas why my machine freezes while playing (any) game? At the moment I am using my onboard VGA since the waterblock is still in transfer.
> Any game freezes hard after playing for 10-20 minutes.
> NO OC!
> All stock values.
> 
> Linx and Prime run for hours (at least 3h fo Linx) withput any problems. Benchmarks like the Metro 2033 Benchmark run for 10 passes without problems.
> I suspect the onboard sound
> 
> My rig:
> GA Z77 UD5H, F8 (31/05/2012)
> i7-3770K, 3500 MHz
> Using the onboard Sound atm. (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
> Using onboard iGFX atm. (Driver 8.15.10.2696)
> 
> Any Ideas?
> 
> Don


What leads you to believe it's the onboard sound causing the issue? What are you running for a power supply? LinX and Prime are not going to report the same temperatures as gaming and using the onboard graphics as well... you'd want to monitor your temperatures to make sure you're not going too high when both get loaded up in a gaming scenario. Perhaps run your game in 1080p windowed instead of full screen so you can see what your temperatures are doing.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey,
> any ideas why my machine freezes while playing (any) game? At the moment I am using my onboard VGA since the waterblock is still in transfer.
> Any game freezes hard after playing for 10-20 minutes.
> NO OC!
> All stock values.
> Linx and Prime run for hours (at least 3h for Linx) without any problems. Benchmarks like the Metro 2033 Benchmark run for 10 passes without problems.
> Furmark runs 15 Minutes Burn In Test without Problems.
> My rig:
> GA Z77 UD5H, F8 (31/05/2012)
> i7-3770K, 3500 MHz
> Using the onboard Sound atm. (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
> Using onboard iGFX atm. (Driver 8.15.10.2696)
> PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
> I notice, my SB Temp is really hig (Screenshot provided).
> 
> SB.Temp.JPG 36k .JPG file
> 
> Any Ideas?
> Don
> @DaClownie:
> Suspecting my onboard sound is idiotic. Metro 2033 Bench is using sound. 3DMark11 Demos are also using sound.
> Temp sounds like a good candidate. Can you recommend a good HW Monitor with continous logging feature? I am using AID64.
> Additional Addendum:
> I experience no crashes/freezes in windowed mode. ***?


list EVERYTHING you are using.

Any devices even keyboard and MICE and 1392A devices any PCI devices. And so on.


----------



## twitchyzero

i'm about to start overclockign my memory and cpu and have some newb questions:

right now I'm on BIOS F4...no issues with it whatsoever...is it in my best interest to upgrade to the latest BIOS to allow for better OC stability? I noticed in the fix notes of the newer bios it says SB OC compatibility was introduced..does taht apply to IB? Or should I just follow the "don't fix what ain't broken" rule?

Anyone been able to have a stable overclock over 2133MHz on their samsung 30nm green RAM?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> i'm about to start overclockign my memory and cpu and have some newb questions:
> right now I'm on BIOS F4...no issues with it whatsoever...is it in my best interest to upgrade to the latest BIOS to allow for better OC stability? I noticed in the fix notes of the newer bios it says SB OC compatibility was introduced..does taht apply to IB? Or should I just follow the "don't fix what ain't broken" rule?
> Anyone been able to have a stable overclock over 2133MHz on their samsung 30nm green RAM?


You should update anyway, there are so many issues that you might run into. Mine still has lots of problems..
As for the Memory, It wouldn't even boot at 2133 and at 2000 I did HAVE it stable at really loose timings but I prefer tighter and decent clocks.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> i'm about to start overclockign my memory and cpu and have some newb questions:
> right now I'm on BIOS F4...no issues with it whatsoever...is it in my best interest to upgrade to the latest BIOS to allow for better OC stability? I noticed in the fix notes of the newer bios it says SB OC compatibility was introduced..does taht apply to IB? Or should I just follow the "don't fix what ain't broken" rule?
> Anyone been able to have a stable overclock over 2133MHz on their samsung 30nm green RAM?
> 
> 
> 
> You should update anyway, there are so many issues that you might run into. Mine still has lots of problems..
> As for the Memory, It wouldn't even boot at 2133 and at 2000 I did HAVE it stable at really loose timings but I prefer tighter and decent clocks.
Click to expand...

I'd try OCing first before updating, in all honesty. I'm still on F6 and mine is as stable as can be.


----------



## Yor_

I discovered what makes my system with UD5H unbootable with new F9q bios: a setting in the bios the "Onboard LAN controller #1". If I disable it, the system won't boot.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> i'm about to start overclockign my memory and cpu and have some newb questions:
> right now I'm on BIOS F4...no issues with it whatsoever...is it in my best interest to upgrade to the latest BIOS to allow for better OC stability? I noticed in the fix notes of the newer bios it says SB OC compatibility was introduced..does taht apply to IB? Or should I just follow the "don't fix what ain't broken" rule?
> Anyone been able to have a stable overclock over 2133MHz on their samsung 30nm green RAM?


Never upgrade your bios if you aren't having any problems with it. I also have your motherboard and am in a fixed problem that can't be undone, even though I've reverted back to every other freakin bios that came out for this mobo (UD5H).


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> list EVERYTHING you are using.
> Any devices even keyboard and MICE and 1392A devices any PCI devices. And so on.


Hey Sin,

the freezes happen only when I play in Fullscreen. No Freezes so far in windowed mode.
LINX and Prime run without freezes/crashes. Furmark Burn In 15 minutes Fullscreen without problems.

Games that I tested in Fullscreen which Crash after 5-15 Minutes
Metro 2033
Rage
Fallout New Vegas

I use the following Hardware: (Stock, No OC)

Board: GA Z77 UD5H, F8 (31/05/2012)
CPU i7-3770K
RAM: ADATA AD3U1600W8G11-2, Premier 16GB KIT (2x8GB), PC3-12800
Using the onboard Sound atm. (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
Using onboard iGFX atm. (Driver 8.15.10.2696)
PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
SSD: Vertex 4 as Boot/OS Drive (SATA3 Port)
SSD: Vertex 2 as Data Drive (SATA3 POrt (I Know, Vertex 2 is SATA2))
HDD: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Black Edition as RAID0 (SATA2 Ports)
DVD Burner: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NS90
USB 2.0: Cherry klick Keyboard (MX3000)
USB 2.0: cheapo non gaming Mouse (Digitus) atm
No additional PCI od PCIx Car atm


----------



## s4e8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s4e8*
> 
> F9q is best so far for UD5H. PLL voltage and CSM control coming back, and NO MORE double reset on cold boot (old BIOS will reset once if enable XMP prpfile and another if prefer iGPU to dGPU).


I eat my words. F9q don't load profile again. seems back to F9d or earlier.


----------



## 2therock

You're not trying to load a bios profile from a previous version bios are you? Or are you talking about X.M.P.? I'll take entering my own profile over a bad cold boot Any day. As for the coldboot, did you load windows with other drives connected?


----------



## s4e8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> You're not trying to load a bios profile from a previous version bios are you? Or are you talking about X.M.P.? I'll take entering my own profile over a bad cold boot Any day. As for the coldboot, did you load windows with other drives connected?


I load profile from same version (aka F9q). Because I meet some BSOD, so I save BIOS settings and revert to F9o, and BSOD again. After I found the BSOD caused by PIUS change in my SAS RAID card. Then I flash F9q again, and load saved Profile, and nothing happened.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Sin, I wanna join the club.

I have my new Z77x-ud5h-wb now








Couldn't be happier with it!

-I7 2600k @ 4.8ghz - 1.416v
(soon to be replaced with an I7 3770k...in about two weeks)
-Samsung 30nm ram - 2x4gb @ 2133mhz cl10 1.475v
-No gpu yet...

EDIT: Here are some pics!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s4e8*
> 
> I load profile from same version (aka F9q). Because I meet some BSOD, so I save BIOS settings and revert to F9o, and BSOD again. After I found the BSOD caused by PIUS change in my SAS RAID card. Then I flash F9q again, and load saved Profile, and nothing happened.


Your issues had me check mine and it saves and loads profiles and saved BIOS files fine. Are you saving them to the board or to a flash drive? Try both?

Good Luck.


----------



## Sin0822

saving profiles between different BIOSes can cause issues especially if one BIOS has some setting the other doesn't. So just watch out for that.

IvanLabrie, welcome!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey Sin,
> the freezes happen only when I play in Fullscreen. No Freezes so far in windowed mode.
> LINX and Prime run without freezes/crashes. Furmark Burn In 15 minutes Fullscreen without problems.
> Games that I tested in Fullscreen which Crash after 5-15 Minutes
> Metro 2033
> Rage
> Fallout New Vegas
> I use the following Hardware: (Stock, No OC)
> Board: GA Z77 UD5H, F8 (31/05/2012)
> CPU i7-3770K
> RAM: ADATA AD3U1600W8G11-2, Premier 16GB KIT (2x8GB), PC3-12800
> Using the onboard Sound atm. (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
> Using onboard iGFX atm. (Driver 8.15.10.2696)
> PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
> SSD: Vertex 4 as Boot/OS Drive (SATA3 Port)
> SSD: Vertex 2 as Data Drive (SATA3 POrt (I Know, Vertex 2 is SATA2))
> HDD: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Black Edition as RAID0 (SATA2 Ports)
> DVD Burner: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NS90
> USB 2.0: Cherry klick Keyboard (MX3000)
> USB 2.0: cheapo non gaming Mouse (Digitus) atm
> No additional PCI od PCIx Car atm


hey man it isn't a BIOS thing, it is most likely an Intel driver issue with the iGPU with certain games, have you tried updating it? Are you going to get a dedicated GPU?

How can you even play Metero 2033 with the iGPU? lol


----------



## sena

I am using IGP now (HD7950 sold), so i have couple of questions.
First is: Why i cant extend screen on tv, and why TV and monitor are identfied as one screen, any way to fix this? I really need ability to turn off one screen sometimes.
Second, why GPU-Z is not detecting any info?


----------



## bgbop15

i did, still have to have a hard drive plugged in. Also, I have 2 z77x-ud5h's in front of me, with 3770ks and 4x4gb corsair vengences installed. same behavior!


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> I am using IGP now (HD7950 sold), so i have couple of questions.
> First is: Why i cant extend screen on tv, and why TV and monitor are identfied as one screen, any way to fix this? I really need ability to turn off one screen sometimes.
> Second, why GPU-Z is not detecting any info?


Fixed. didnt installed any drivers. What a shame.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> saving profiles between different BIOSes can cause issues especially if one BIOS has some setting the other doesn't. So just watch out for that.
> IvanLabrie, welcome!


Thanks man!
Happy to join your little club









I want a badge for my sig, is there any official one yet?


----------



## neoprimal

I decided to remove any doubt in my mind of whether the issues I'm having with the board are because it is defective or otherwise and I have decided that the issue board based, along with the combination of things I'm using with it.

I purchased a second UD3H board over the weekend from Microcenter and it has the exact same problems. I didn't bother adding the USB 2 ports to the headers and I didn't update the BIOS since I had no intention of keeping it. This means that the new BIOS I put on mine has had little to no effect regarding the issues with the 4 onboard VIA ports. I guess the USB 2 ports I added to the headers are what are making the most difference for me. My plan was to RMA my board to Newegg if the Microcenter one worked or exchange it for another if it didn't work, but I think I will just keep it. Looking through the other $150 boards out there, there's just nothing that beats it. Moreover, they all run 2-4 USB 3 ports anyway. At least I get to use 4 out of 6 of mine







.

I wonder if these issues are why Gigabyte switched up on how they did USB 3 on the UD5H board? I'm still hoping for a BIOS fix but am no longer sweating it. For the price it's still a good board.


----------



## Sin0822

the UD5H they used more PCI-E 1x lanes, thus hubs made more sense i guess.


----------



## nascarmon

My i5-3570k/UD5H combo running at stock speeds seems to get very hot when pushed. Using the retail cooler that came with the Intel. I haven't attempted any OCing since running Prime95 causes my cpu (monitored with Core Temp 1.0 R3) to soar to the 90-98 range. Otherwise, my temps seem to be okay (41-44 idle, 60-70c load with games) . Does this mean I've got a dog and shouldn't even attempt to overclock and I should just be happy that it works under normal conditions?? I don't think I'll be able to safely stress test any OCing I do. And yes, I'm using thermal compound.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> My i5-3570k/UD5H combo running at stock speeds seems to get very hot when pushed. Using the retail cooler that came with the Intel. I haven't attempted any OCing since running Prime95 causes my cpu (monitored with Core Temp 1.0 R3) to soar to the 90-98 range. Otherwise, my temps seem to be okay (41-44 idle, 60-70c load with games) . Does this mean I've got a dog and shouldn't even attempt to overclock and I should just be happy that it works under normal conditions?? I don't think I'll be able to safely stress test any OCing I do. And yes, I'm using thermal compound.


No, this chip runs hot as all hell on stock cooler. I had mine hitting 95C on auto as well with stock cooler. Auto voltage applies too much voltage. If you lower your voltage you can get it to load somewhere closer to 75C or so, but still... the cooler is horrible. I put mine under water and I hit 4.7GHz on my 3770k with 1.33v and temps don't go over 84C after 12 hours of stress testing in Prime95 blend.


----------



## irfy

F9q -- profiles saving works to mobo and ext flash. BUT you can not load profile from flash. It works from mobo no probs.

If you find you cant set DRAM voltage after flashing F9q do a CMOS onboard reset this will cure the issue, thanx to Statio for this one.
Gona giv F9q a good go for the next few days. My only niggle was sometimes on cold boot system wud ON n OFF 4 or more times then boot like nothing happen. I really hope this annoying issue is gone. Also i cant seem to make latest version of Lucid MVP work (2.1.115.23184)
Its activated but eveytime i try 3dmark11 i get black screen, ive tried taking GPU out, using IGPU then shutting down and inserting GPU again.

Still a no go for me anyone else got this issue??


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfy*
> 
> F9q -- profiles saving works to mobo and ext flash. BUT you can not load profile from flash. It works from mobo no probs.
> If you find you cant set DRAM voltage after flashing F9q do a CMOS onboard reset this will cure the issue, thanx to Statio for this one.
> Gona giv F9q a good go for the next few days. My only niggle was sometimes on cold boot system wud ON n OFF 4 or more times then boot like nothing happen. I really hope this annoying issue is gone. Also i cant seem to make latest version of Lucid MVP work (2.1.115.23184)
> Its activated but eveytime i try 3dmark11 i get black screen, ive tried taking GPU out, using IGPU then shutting down and inserting GPU again.
> Still a no go for me anyone else got this issue??


Do a search on the virtu mvp getting installed and way back at the beginning there are a handful of posts that should help you out.


----------



## McDoney

Hey Sin,

I am planning to use a real VGA. Still wating for the waterblock for my 680 SC Signature.

Metro 2033 runs "fine" using 720p and lowest settings 
The freezes really seem to be a fullscreen thing. Had a crash yesterday while browsing.

The drivers I use seem to be the most recent.

Best regards
Don


----------



## MME1122

Does anyone else hate the obnoxious orange BIOS LED? It's the brightest light inside my case right now, it makes everything orange. I'm considering dabbing some black paint on it. There are two orange LEDs, one indicated the normal BIOS and one indicated the backup BIOS. I feel like the LED is only necessary for when the backup BIOS is selected.


----------



## barkeater

easy to fix bro. break out your girl's black (or yours if your Goth) nail polish.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> easy to fix bro. break out your girl's black (or yours if your Goth) nail polish.


This, mine is getting dabbed next time I open the case to clean


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvista*
> 
> Just to clarify, BIOS F6i & 2600K can't wake up from sleep mode properly when OC. This renders the new Intel rapid start, smart connect useless!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I have been playing with the sleep mode and have had my issues as well. Most recently I had found that my pc would not enter sleep mode even though I had enabled the "Balanced" mode in windows. Upon troubleshooting I disabled all of the wake on LAN options. That seemed to help but from time to time I am unable to wake and have to do a hard shutdown by holding the power button for several seconds then powering back up. Sometimes it comes out of sleep without a problem and I have yet to be able to figure that one out yet.
> I like the sleep function even though my ssd boots very fast because I run a music server, and in order to access my music library, the computer must be on. I don't like the idea of leaving my computer on all the time so the sleep option seems to be the most useful option. However, it is also true that sleep does introduce instability with a computer that you are OC'ing (be it the ram, cpu and/or gpu). Therefore, just for troubleshooting the sleep issue, I have set my system to stock settings.
> I have also found that other things can interfere with sleep such as scheduled tasks. I'm still investigating this one as I suspect that there may be scheduled tasks enabled that I will want to change/remove, as well as some services.


I have been experimenting with the sleep mode and have not been able to successfully utilize sleep mode if OC the cpu. Normally, it will enter sleep OK, but then when I go to wake it, I am presented with a BSOD and I have to hit the "restart" button on the case. I am using F8 and when not utilizing the sleep mode I am completely stable with my OC. When set to optimized default settings in the bios, I can enter/exit sleep without issue. I remember earlier on folks complaining about the sleep issue and it was thought to just be a Sandy problem with the Z77 and lack af ability to disable the PLL overvolt thingy which has since been added to the newer bios's. The BSOD screen identifies a file: RtHDMIVX.SYS. I have updated this driver to most current and still have the same problem. I am using the SPDIF(toslink) port out but not the HDMI.

Aside from this my system is working great and I don't consider this a major issue. Just an annoyance.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I have been experimenting with the sleep mode and have not been able to successfully utilize sleep mode if OC the cpu. Normally, it will enter sleep OK, but then when I go to wake it, I am presented with a BSOD and I have to hit the "restart" button on the case. I am using F8 and when not utilizing the sleep mode I am completely stable with my OC. When set to optimized default settings in the bios, I can enter/exit sleep without issue. I remember earlier on folks complaining about the sleep issue and it was thought to just be a Sandy problem with the Z77 and lack af ability to disable the PLL overvolt thingy which has since been added to the newer bios's. The BSOD screen identifies a file: RtHDMIVX.SYS. I have updated this driver to most current and still have the same problem. I am using the SPDIF(toslink) port out but not the HDMI.
> Aside from this my system is working great and I don't consider this a major issue. Just an annoyance.


I was getting the same thing, Z77X-UD5H at only 4GHz -- BSOD on resume from S3, cause INTELPPM.SYS (many complaints on this one) But Linux has no problem at all with latest kernel 3.3.6. my current uptime 17+ days and I suspend/resume all day.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I have been experimenting with the sleep mode and have not been able to successfully utilize sleep mode if OC the cpu. Normally, it will enter sleep OK, but then when I go to wake it, I am presented with a BSOD and I have to hit the "restart" button on the case. I am using F8 and when not utilizing the sleep mode I am completely stable with my OC. When set to optimized default settings in the bios, I can enter/exit sleep without issue. I remember earlier on folks complaining about the sleep issue and it was thought to just be a Sandy problem with the Z77 and lack af ability to disable the PLL overvolt thingy which has since been added to the newer bios's. The BSOD screen identifies a file: RtHDMIVX.SYS. I have updated this driver to most current and still have the same problem. I am using the SPDIF(toslink) port out but not the HDMI.
> Aside from this my system is working great and I don't consider this a major issue. Just an annoyance.


Hehe, you are good, i cant even wake screen up, because of AMD zero core is NOT WORKING, really, when they will fix that problem?


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I have been experimenting with the sleep mode and have not been able to successfully utilize sleep mode if OC the cpu. Normally, it will enter sleep OK, but then when I go to wake it, I am presented with a BSOD and I have to hit the "restart" button on the case. I am using F8 and when not utilizing the sleep mode I am completely stable with my OC. When set to optimized default settings in the bios, I can enter/exit sleep without issue. I remember earlier on folks complaining about the sleep issue and it was thought to just be a Sandy problem with the Z77 and lack af ability to disable the PLL overvolt thingy which has since been added to the newer bios's. The BSOD screen identifies a file: RtHDMIVX.SYS. I have updated this driver to most current and still have the same problem. I am using the SPDIF(toslink) port out but not the HDMI.
> Aside from this my system is working great and I don't consider this a major issue. Just an annoyance.


Have you tried the OC + Sleep using a spinner vs. the SSD?


----------



## 2therock

Sleep mode is tricky and one cannot be so fast as to blame any single thing until they find it. Windows / Device Manager Power Management settings / Power options settings.....You just don't know what it is until you nail it.

A good operating Sleep Mode is one function I must have. In all my computing years I have not had a PC that did not need to have a sleep issue ironed out.

In your case I would first blame The OS. Unless when running the the stock clock it works OK.

Does it work OK when you are on the stock clock?


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> easy to fix bro. break out your girl's black (or yours if your Goth) nail polish.


You think nail polish is better than some sort of paint? I guess it's good my girlfriend likes the black polish


----------



## 2therock

Gosh, I gotta lay on the floor and look under my device card to see mine. I mostly stare at the display.


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Gosh, I gotta lay on the floor and look under my device card to see mine. I mostly stare at the display.


Talking about the light still?

I don't have a GPU yet so it's kind of lighting up the empty cavern of my PCI slots...
Even after I get my GPU it won't be covered and it'll light up like the whole case.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> Talking about the light still?
> I don't have a GPU yet so it's kind of lighting up the empty cavern of my PCI slots...
> Even after I get my GPU it won't be covered and it'll light up like the whole case.


I see. Youre's must be a bright one. Mine are pretty discrete.


----------



## s4e8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I was getting the same thing, Z77X-UD5H at only 4GHz -- BSOD on resume from S3, cause INTELPPM.SYS (many complaints on this one) But Linux has no problem at all with latest kernel 3.3.6. my current uptime 17+ days and I suspend/resume all day.


I meet intelppm.sys BSOD too, stop all hwmon(eg: aida64 coretemp....) and problem solved.


----------



## 2therock

Not sure if its the case with you but for the heck of it go to your power options setup and in change plan settings/ change advanced power settings, look to see if "Hybernate After" is not set to Never.
It should be set to Never on a desktop. When I get complaints of waking issues I have seen this somehow set to allow for Hibernation causing waking issues. Setting it to back Never is sometimes the cure.
Not to be confused with the Hybrid Sleep, which is OK.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Mine's incredibly bright as well...not that I care. I want my pc to be fast that's all...I even care about cable management cause of airflow and temps hehe


----------



## seanpears99

Hi All

New to this thread but have a few questions in relation to my new build.

Firstly memory recognition, I mistakenly bought, Gskill Ripjaws 1866 1.5 DDR3 memory, I looked at the support list and had a brain fart and didnt realise till afterwards that it only supported certain 1866 memory.

I bought this:-

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=186_912&products_id=18601

G.Skill F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3

When installed, the biod reports 16gb and CPUz does but windows x64 ultimate only states 8gb, do I need to buy different memory?

Secondly and this is weird, when I boot and the Gigabyte logo is on the screen, its half way across my 37in monitor so whenever I go into the bios, half ofd it is to the left of my screen (OS is fine), Any ideas?

Lastly, I have installed an SSD drive and loaded the OS onto it, no probs. I have my 2TB drive installed via Sata too but windows cannot see it and its no in the disk management section either. Does it matter where this drive is plugged into, i.e. does it need to be in Sata 0 or 1?

Thanks
Sean


----------



## Sin0822

first on the memory, can you try switching the slots? all 16gb should be detected.

second can you take a picture of the monitor with BIOS

third try one of the black ports for your 2TB drive.


----------



## seanpears99

Thanks Sin

Back from work in an hour so will get straight to it

Cheers
Sean


----------



## Matt-Matt

Was the 2TB drive already formatted with stuff on it? You might need to go to disk management and re-initialise it, I've had to do this a few times with a couple of my drives.









As for the Memory.. Did you upgrade from 8GB? If so it's probably Windows thinking there's only 8GB, go to msconfig - Then to advanced options and select how much memory you have.


----------



## TrueForm

I have an issues with my CPU and sleep. When I sleep and turn it back on the CPU is back at 3.6Ghz.. but if I shut down or restart the comp, it still stays at 4.5.. why is this? Cheers.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrueForm*
> 
> I have an issues with my CPU and sleep. When I sleep and turn it back on the CPU is back at 3.6Ghz.. but if I shut down or restart the comp, it still stays at 4.5.. why is this? Cheers.


No idea.. Have you tried a different bios?


----------



## stasio

New VIA USB 3.0 Driver 6.1.7600.3105:
http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Driver/mb_driver_via_usb3.exe


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey Sin,
> the freezes happen only when I play in Fullscreen. No Freezes so far in windowed mode.
> LINX and Prime run without freezes/crashes. Furmark Burn In 15 minutes Fullscreen without problems.
> Games that I tested in Fullscreen which Crash after 5-15 Minutes
> Metro 2033
> Rage
> Fallout New Vegas
> I use the following Hardware: (Stock, No OC)
> Board: GA Z77 UD5H, F8 (31/05/2012)
> CPU i7-3770K
> RAM: ADATA AD3U1600W8G11-2, Premier 16GB KIT (2x8GB), PC3-12800
> Using the onboard Sound atm. (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
> Using onboard iGFX atm. (Driver 8.15.10.2696)
> PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
> SSD: Vertex 4 as Boot/OS Drive (SATA3 Port)
> SSD: Vertex 2 as Data Drive (SATA3 POrt (I Know, Vertex 2 is SATA2))
> HDD: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Black Edition as RAID0 (SATA2 Ports)
> DVD Burner: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NS90
> USB 2.0: Cherry klick Keyboard (MX3000)
> USB 2.0: cheapo non gaming Mouse (Digitus) atm
> No additional PCI od PCIx Car atm


Ok, the freezes now happen even when running Linx or Prime. A few days ago they would run without any problems.
Didnt change anything. The problem seems to get worse. Even Games in windowed mode crash now.

Any suggestions?


----------



## seanpears99

Hey Sin

Here is a pic of the boot screen



HDD is fixed, memory is still an issue.

Swapped in all 4 sticks into all channels and they all boot normally.

My BIOS is only seeing 8gb of the 16, the same as windows.

I am running v9 of the Bios.

CPUz sees 16, no idea what to do. Bios settings are all stock.

Any idea where I can check next?

Thanks
Sean


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> Have you tried the OC + Sleep using a spinner vs. the SSD?


Thanks. No, I am going to keep that suggestion in mind but want to try other possible solutions not involving reinstalling my OS first.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Sleep mode is tricky and one cannot be so fast as to blame any single thing until they find it. Windows / Device Manager Power Management settings / Power options settings.....You just don't know what it is until you nail it.
> A good operating Sleep Mode is one function I must have. In all my computing years I have not had a PC that did not need to have a sleep issue ironed out.
> In your case I would first blame The OS. Unless when running the the stock clock it works OK.
> Does it work OK when you are on the stock clock?


Works on stock settings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s4e8*
> 
> I meet intelppm.sys BSOD too, stop all hwmon(eg: aida64 coretemp....) and problem solved.


Not running any apps (including hwmon) when testing sleep mode. Unless my GPU program that I use to control the GPU fan is possibly causing problem as it does have some monitoring capabilities. I'll look into and test with Trixx disabled.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Not sure if its the case with you but for the heck of it go to your power options setup and in change plan settings/ change advanced power settings, look to see if "Hybernate After" is not set to Never.
> It should be set to Never on a desktop. When I get complaints of waking issues I have seen this somehow set to allow for Hibernation causing waking issues. Setting it to back Never is sometimes the cure.
> Not to be confused with the Hybrid Sleep, which is OK.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hybrid has not been changed and is on "never"

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrueForm*
> 
> I have an issues with my CPU and sleep. When I sleep and turn it back on the CPU is back at 3.6Ghz.. but if I shut down or restart the comp, it still stays at 4.5.. why is this? Cheers.


Do a search in this thread as I remember someone complaining about the same problem. He would set up his OC and then when the computer came out of sleep it would not be OC'd. Not sure if they were able to get it resolved but they may have had some success using a newer bios.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanpears99*
> 
> Hey Sin
> Here is a pic of the boot screen
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDD is fixed, memory is still an issue.
> Swapped in all 4 sticks into all channels and they all boot normally.
> My BIOS is only seeing 8gb of the 16, the same as windows.
> I am running v9 of the Bios.
> CPUz sees 16, no idea what to do. Bios settings are all stock.
> Any idea where I can check next?
> Thanks
> Sean


List all of your components/OS please so better recommendations can be made.


----------



## seanpears99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanpears99*
> 
> Hey Sin
> Here is a pic of the boot screen
> 
> HDD is fixed, memory is still an issue.
> Swapped in all 4 sticks into all channels and they all boot normally.
> My BIOS is only seeing 8gb of the 16, the same as windows.
> I am running v9 of the Bios.
> CPUz sees 16, no idea what to do. Bios settings are all stock.
> Any idea where I can check next?
> Thanks
> Sean


Another issue, none of my USB3 ports at the back of the board are working either, hate this board at the mo


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanpears99*
> 
> Another issue, none of my USB3 ports at the back of the board are working either, hate this board at the mo


USB issues can be as much a board issue as a bad Win7 Install. UgH!

If you get to a point of RMA, I would first take the time to do a fresh Win7 install. With no other drives attached and after writing zeros to the drive twice. Then boot to the Memtest86 CD before loading and run it good.

I know its a pain. Also a bad stick of RAM can cause a bad Win7 install. Thats why with a fresh build I run the Memtest86 CD thoroughly before loading Windows.

Good on stock clock and bad on tweaked clock is a good one though.

Perhaps you can compare Even viewer in each clock for errors and warnings. WHEA hardware warnings after running tests can indicate a bad clock and your be your woes.

Good luck


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanpears99*
> 
> Hey Sin
> Here is a pic of the boot screen
> 
> HDD is fixed, memory is still an issue.
> Swapped in all 4 sticks into all channels and they all boot normally.
> My BIOS is only seeing 8gb of the 16, the same as windows.
> I am running v9 of the Bios.
> CPUz sees 16, no idea what to do. Bios settings are all stock.
> Any idea where I can check next?
> Thanks
> Sean


Some stupid questions, just because I've gone through this before and you didn't provide details.

1. is it an actual monitor or a TV you're using as monitor?
2. is there an alignment button or feature you can use? I know hdmi isn't supposed to need it but perhaps in this case it may help.
3. i notice you're using video cards, could you perhaps try on the onboard video, just to see if it may be something with the cards vs. the board?

Initially for some reason during the bios phase my smaller lcd didn't auto line up, which was new to me because in every other system it did - the difference is that mine is using the vga port, hdmi is supposed to self-align.

Also, re: the USB - I think it show UD3H in that pic which I have as well. The VIA USB are notoriously tricky inside of windows. You MUST install drivers to use them once it gets into Windows. You can use them at the BIOS screen to get in, probably 100% every time but once inside windows the 4 USB (not under the LAN) will not work natively. The Intel ones will work (the ones under the LAN port) in Windows but there's a 50/50 chance they won't work at the BIOS screen. I don't know why.

So the best thing to do is to keep it on the Intel port until you have the Windows driver installed and then move it to the VIA port. I moved mine to the VIA port to the left of my LAN port and it's worked fine there. Either way, the ports are tricky and I can't use more than 2 of them without problems. There's a new driver available for the VIA USB 3 on the GB website. I can't use it since I'm on Windows 8.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Thanks. No, I am going to keep that suggestion in mind but want to try other possible solutions not involving reinstalling my OS first.
> List all of your components/OS please so better recommendations can be made.


I don't mean wiping one you're actually using or using the spinner as the main drive, I meant like using an older spare drive just to see if it runs on it. I guess I shouldn't assume everyone has extra hard drives sitting around. I have 5 just chilling out, lol.

That's how I had to test mine. I now have 2 drives, one with fresh+all updates Windows 7 and fresh Windows 8 RP sitting down in addition to the drive I'm actually using ATM with Windows 8 so I can test to see what's working from what isn't. I have an OCZ Agility 4 on the way but I don't think it will fare any better than the Sandforce; it seems Marvell SSDs are the way to go with these boards.

(I wanted to roll this into my last post but I don't see a way to actually delete posts so I'll leave it as separate, sorry for the double post - didn't see what bark said till afterwards.)


----------



## steve210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> New VIA USB 3.0 Driver 6.1.7600.3105:
> http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Driver/mb_driver_via_usb3.exe


oh these new via drivers are nice i have no mouse lag on screen now thanks via


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanpears99*
> 
> Another issue, none of my USB3 ports at the back of the board are working either, hate this board at the mo


I had an issue with the USB ports randomly not working, sometimes mouse and keyboard would work, sometimes only 1, sometimes neither. I updated to BIOS F11 and I haven't had the problem since.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> New VIA USB 3.0 Driver 6.1.7600.3105:
> http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Driver/mb_driver_via_usb3.exe


Will these work on the UD5H?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Will these work on the UD5H?


I believe it won't. UD5H has Via hubs, but not VIA USBs.


----------



## mandrix

I had been reading so much about problems with sleep. Since I've been leaving my rig up all day (UD5H) I decided to enable sleep and I'm happy to say it works perfectly, isn't affected by my overclock at all. Once in a while, not often I'll get a Windows message about one of the VIA USB 3.0 hub ports. Mostly I use the USB 3.0 off the Intel port and no problems but occasionally I use the rear ones and I may/may not get the message. pita.

@2therock: he's right the UD5 has the VIA hubs, you don't load a driver for those.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I had been reading so much about problems with sleep. Since I've been leaving my rig up all day (UD5H) I decided to enable sleep and I'm happy to say it works perfectly, isn't affected by my overclock at all. Once in a while, not often I'll get a Windows message about one of the VIA USB 3.0 hub ports. Mostly I use the USB 3.0 off the Intel port and no problems but occasionally I use the rear ones and I may/may not get the message. pita.
> @2therock: he's right the UD5 has the VIA hubs, you don't load a driver for those.


what are the settings (bios/windows) ?,i like to try the sleep but most of the settings on UD5 i'm not familiar with


----------



## seanpears99

Hi Neo

I am using a 37in Panasonic LCD TV which may have adjustment but as this only happens at the bios screen, if I tailor it for that then everything else would be impacted.

I will try a DVI to HDMI to see if the HDMI is at fault but it cant be anything within Windows which is impacting it. (Or I wouldnt have thought so, although the starting windows screen is half across as well until the log in screen appears)

I will give the onbard a try tonight as well.

The only USBs I have working are my front case ones which is how I have got by but this is not acceptable and for all of the hassle, I might just have bought a better board and paid the extra cash.

I will contact the supplier today also and see where I stand.

Cheers
Sean


----------



## r0ach

They need to roll back BIOS releases for the UD5H. F7 dated May 11-12th is still the best BIOS for Sandy Bridge chips on this thing. I've tried them all. They all have freezing issues once every few days, but F7 freezes the least and can go an entire week sometimes without it happening.

The official F8 currently on the Gigabyte site is pure garbage. If I load up a non-graphic intensive game called League of Legends on F8 BIOS and run into the enemy base, the framerate goes down to like 10 FPS for no reason and I have an Nvidia 570 GTX playing a very low requirements game. This issue hasn't occurred with any other BIOS I've tried, just F8.

With F10a, the thing freezes more than older ones such as F7. I believe F8 and F9 also gave me a slightly less responsive mouse cursor (input lag), so they probably were screwing around with some kind of USB issue on those too.

Please god, just rollback to F7 and go from there, because none of these new changes have done anything to make these boards better.


----------



## Sin0822

that special BIOS I gave you roach, did you try it? it might hurt your OC ability, but just see if it causes a freeze with your sound card in.


----------



## r0ach

Haven't tried it yet, was re-trying all of the standard ones again first. I only have mine at 4ghz too. I tried running it stock but the freezing issue is still there on mine, so it's not OC related.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I believe it won't. UD5H has Via hubs, but not VIA USBs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I had been reading so much about problems with sleep. Since I've been leaving my rig up all day (UD5H) I decided to enable sleep and I'm happy to say it works perfectly, isn't affected by my overclock at all. Once in a while, not often I'll get a Windows message about one of the VIA USB 3.0 hub ports. Mostly I use the USB 3.0 off the Intel port and no problems but occasionally I use the rear ones and I may/may not get the message. pita.
> @2therock: he's right the UD5 has the VIA hubs, you don't load a driver for those.


^^Thanks you two^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> what are the settings (bios/windows) ?,i like to try the sleep but most of the settings on UD5 i'm not familiar with


Sleep is in Windows/Settings/Power options,,,, not BIOS. They are thinking some BIOS do not play well with Win7 Sleep.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> They need to roll back BIOS releases for the UD5H. F7 dated May 11-12th is still the best BIOS for Sandy Bridge chips on this thing. I've tried them all. They all have freezing issues once every few days, but F7 freezes the least and can go an entire week sometimes without it happening.
> The official F8 currently on the Gigabyte site is pure garbage. If I load up a non-graphic intensive game called League of Legends on F8 BIOS and run into the enemy base, the framerate goes down to like 10 FPS for no reason and I have an Nvidia 570 GTX playing a very low requirements game. This issue hasn't occurred with any other BIOS I've tried, just F8.
> With F10a, the thing freezes more than older ones such as F7. I believe F8 and F9 also gave me a slightly less responsive mouse cursor (input lag), so they probably were screwing around with some kind of USB issue on those too.
> Please god, just rollback to F7 and go from there, because none of these new changes have done anything to make these boards better.


Maybe so on Sandy Bridge but on my Ivy Bridge its a different story than you tell. F7 & 8 play very well on mine. F9q ids the best for me though.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Haven't tried it yet, was re-trying all of the standard ones again first. I only have mine at 4ghz too. I tried running it stock but the freezing issue is still there on mine, so it's not OC related.


Yes please try it, and if there is ANYONE ELSE OUT THERE WHO HAS A PCI DEVICE SUCH AS A Sound card and you have freezing please let me know and I will send you a special BIOS to see if it solves your problem. The BIOS i sent isn't the best for OC, but if it fixes your issue Roach, with your Audigy 2ZS then they can implement the changes into the final BIOS.
Also have you tried another CPu or an older board? Because I had degraded my 2500K and it was causing my issues at stock, but when I oced i had no issue because vcore was manual lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> ^^Thanks you two^^
> Sleep is in Windows/Settings/Power options,,,, not BIOS. They are thinking some BIOS do not play well with Win7 Sleep.
> Maybe so on Sandy Bridge but on my Ivy Bridge its a different story than you tell. F7 & 8 play very well on mine. F9q ids the best for me though.


Yes F7 prob was one of the better one for Sandy Bridge, as GB did some power optimizations for Ivy Bridge. Tuning one way will give best performance on one CPU, tuning another way or balancing might not give full potential. However they are working on it, and since day 1 this thread has brought the BIOS very far. The Z77X-UP5 TH is based ont he UD5H BIOS and is very strong as well, so early in its release.


----------



## 2therock

When you folks use a PCI device such as a sound card, are you going into device manager and doing a "disable" on the on board device you are replacing? Maybe this will help?


----------



## neoprimal

My Agility 4 should be here tomorrow so let me ask, is there anyone here currently using the UD3H board with an Agility 4 SSD with NO ISSUES at all?

I'm thinking I may just throw it into my HTPC and get something else since both Sandforce and Everest 2 are shaky with this board (as reported elsewhere).

Thanks.


----------



## stasio

Easy Tune6 (Intel) B12.0801.1

http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Utility/motherboard_utility_et6_intel.exe


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> what are the settings (bios/windows) ?,i like to try the sleep but most of the settings on UD5 i'm not familiar with


Nothing changed in BIOS. I just went into control panel/power options and get to the point of Advanced Power Options and set up individual options. Allow hybrid sleep, don't allow hibernation. Set up your display and HDD's for however you want to manage them. Nothing complicated, really, took about 2 minutes. I have my display go to screen saver in 45 minutes, and the whole system sleeps after an hour of no activity. Only thing I don't like is having to log back in after sleep and I haven't seen a way to change it yet. Maybe it defaults to that since I have the Windows logon setup enabled? IDK. No big deal, though.


----------



## barkeater

I don't have to log in when coming out of sleep but I also do not have Windows logon setup enabled as I am the only one who uses my computer.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Nothing changed in BIOS. I just went into control panel/power options and get to the point of Advanced Power Options and set up individual options. Allow hybrid sleep, don't allow hibernation. Set up your display and HDD's for however you want to manage them. Nothing complicated, really, took about 2 minutes. I have my display go to screen saver in 45 minutes, and the whole system sleeps after an hour of no activity. Only thing I don't like is having to log back in after sleep and I haven't seen a way to change it yet. Maybe it defaults to that since I have the Windows logon setup enabled? IDK. No big deal, though.


After you select to change advanced settings ............ Go here and it will become available.................


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> After you select to change advanced settings ............ Go here and it will become available.................


Amazing I've never seen that as many times as I've been to advanced settings on 5 different rigs running Win 7......Thanks!


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> After you select to change advanced settings ............ Go here and it will become available.................


"Change settings that are currently unavailable" ??? What is that? I don't have it.


----------



## Sin0822

i have it? perhaps update windows?


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i have it? perhaps update windows?


What does it do? I have Win7 SP1.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Nothing changed in BIOS. I just went into control panel/power options and get to the point of Advanced Power Options and set up individual options. Allow hybrid sleep, don't allow hibernation. Set up your display and HDD's for however you want to manage them. Nothing complicated, really, took about 2 minutes. I have my display go to screen saver in 45 minutes, and the whole system sleeps after an hour of no activity. Only thing I don't like is having to log back in after sleep and I haven't seen a way to change it yet. Maybe it defaults to that since I have the Windows logon setup enabled? IDK. No big deal, though.


thanks buddy ,i wasn't sure ..on my previous MB (P8P67) i had C1 enabled and C3 disable and that was it ,on UD5 i have the "wake" thing under Power Management

@Sin ..getting there ...


----------



## neoprimal

As I suspected, the freezing continues! Bah! I will just hope and pray that by the time W8 comes to me this is fixed somehow - or that I manage to get a marvell based SSD by then.

So frustrating though, when you just can't diagnose a problem.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> "Change settings that are currently unavailable" ??? What is that? I don't have it.


Youy should. Go to control panel/power options/select your plan/

You should be here and select the item the arrow shows.



Which takes you here.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> thanks buddy ,i wasn't sure ..on my previous MB (P8P67) i had C1 enabled and C3 disable and that was it ,on UD5 i have the "wake" thing under Power Management
> @Sin ..getting there ...


NICE! Did you buy it or rent? Did you pay extra for that hose? Is it a 20L?


----------



## Sin0822

BTW here is a GIGABYTE CPU-Z: http://www.mediafire.com/?7z8j7nvmy81wcv7


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BTW here is a GIGABYTE CPU-Z: http://www.mediafire.com/?7z8j7nvmy81wcv7


Nice, personally i don't like it. I prefer the stock one over anything








How'd you manage to get this though? I can't seem to find it anywhere


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> NICE! Did you buy it or rent? Did you pay extra for that hose? Is it a 20L?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180943490325&ssPageName=ADME:L:COSI:US:1123#payId

I'm still waiting on binned i7 (from NL







)

P.S. thanks for CPU-Z ,i love it










EDIT; to bad CPU-Z still fluctuates


----------



## Blindeye_03

So my new build booted (ud5h)and I was able to set some settings in the bios. However I wasn't able to get my new hard ssd to detect. The motherboard found my old ssd and platter HD. But it only saw one at a time..it saw my old ssd so I powered the computer down and swapped sata cables between old and new ssd..then it saw my 500gb platter hard drive. Is there a special way I need to be hooking it up to the sata plugs? I am getting a sata cd-rom today so I'll be able to install windows later today - I didn't notice until I had assembled everything that there were no ide connectors.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> NICE! Did you buy it or rent? Did you pay extra for that hose? Is it a 20L?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180943490325&ssPageName=ADME:L:COSI:US:1123#payId
> 
> I'm still waiting on binned i7 (from NL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> P.S. thanks for CPU-Z ,i love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT; to bad CPU-Z still fluctuates
Click to expand...

Nice windows theme / wallpaper, including the gadgets








I want it too


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> NICE! Did you buy it or rent? Did you pay extra for that hose? Is it a 20L?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180943490325&ssPageName=ADME:L:COSI:US:1123#payId
> 
> I'm still waiting on binned i7 (from NL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> P.S. thanks for CPU-Z ,i love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT; to bad CPU-Z still fluctuates
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice windows theme / wallpaper, including the gadgets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want it too
Click to expand...

Agreed. I wish I was smart enough to figure out rainmeter. I get more confused than anything and just uninstall it. LOL


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Nice windows theme / wallpaper, including the gadgets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want it too


http://jamien-price.deviantart.com/#/d20nk4m
EDIT; theme
http://browse.deviantart.com/customization/skins/?qh=&section=&q=soft7+#/d2o7oz5


----------



## stasio

New G1.CPUz need new BIOS,hehe.


----------



## coolhandluke41

which bios ? I'm on F9q
EDIT; nvm ..F10 is out ..it seems like i just flashed ..







..GB pumps them out like every other day lol


----------



## Yor_

It won't set memory timings as desired, with F10 bios (UD5H)


----------



## ElectricDelta

I ran into the same thing with F9q, could only set Normal for memory timings and voltage. If I try to use XMP Profile 1 or 2, it _looks_ like it accepts it, but the voltage is still "stuck" on 1.5V, and I can't manually change it. My GSkill memory likes 1.65V, and won't even finish POST at 2133MHz at 1.5V. I have to use Normal 1600 MHz and 1.5V to run F9q. I used F8d on XMP Profile 2 and it ran 100% stable at 2133 MHz with 1.65V, but I can't get there with F9q. I think I'll give F10 a try, since F9q didn't fix my USB flakiness problem, and if it turns out that F10's no better, I'll switch back to F8d and wait for something new and better to come along.


----------



## Ron Shad

I had to load F9d onto both the Main and Backup bioses, then set memory voltage manually on *both* the main bios and backup bios before it would work.

Main and Backup settings seemed to be conflicting somehow...?

Will be trying F10 later.


----------



## stasio

ElectricDelta,clear CMOS .


----------



## akabrainysmurf

Clearing works for me. If I don't clear after any flash then my "other" efi is the only way to set vDRAM.

F10 is working brilliantly with my UD5H & Samsung 30nm DDR3. I'm actually stable using 4x4GB at 2000 9-9-9-27-1T @ 1.45v. I had to bump tRFC to 142. Granted, I have no idea what tRFC does, but I read somewhere to bump it up and work down...


----------



## irfy

This is TerRiFiC Brainysmurf me trying now 4 x 4 2133 10 10 10 28 1T 1.465v booted fine. Hope no Bluescreens...

Hope she holds pls pls


----------



## irfy

Brainsmurf pls share what is your imc + vtt voltage settings? I got Bccode 1A


----------



## akabrainysmurf

Nevermind on F10. With it loaded my PC won't sleep... It tries, monitor turns off, but fans keep spinning and lights stay on, and I can't wake it from this zombie like half sleep. I did a hard (jumpered) clear_cmos to go to stock, no change so it wasn't my OC causing it.

Irfy,
I didn't touch imc or vtt. They're running at .925 & 1.05.
The only voltages I had changed with my OC were dram, CPU PLL - 1.65, and a -.060 vcore offset for my 3770k @ 4.2g.

Edit: wanted to add that the zombie sleep issue is happening in Win 7, Linux Mint, and Mountain Lion.


----------



## ElectricDelta

Flashed my UD5H to F10, XMP Profile 2 seems to be working fine now. I had previously tried clearing the CMOS on F9q, using "Load optimized Defaults" after flashing, thinking I would keep my F8d settings all intact on the other BIOS, so I could just switch back, if it didn't pan out; did I need to actually pull the battery, put the jumper on, etc. to get F9q working with the XMP profiles? That would mean the "optimized defaults" aren't thorough enough, if so, I suppose. F10 seems good so far for me, off to play some BF3 now...


----------



## 2therock

F9q fixed my cold boot issue with my powered RAID1 eSATA box connected. It fixed my wireless keyboard not getting into BIOS, I put my spare wired keyboard away, YaY!
F9q did mess with the XMP thing a little. F10 fixed that. Fat and Happy on F10.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> F9q fixed my cold boot issue with my powered RAID1 eSATA box connected. It fixed my wireless keyboard not getting into BIOS, I put my spare wired keyboard away, YaY!
> F9q did mess with the XMP thing a little. F10 fixed that. Fat and Happy on F10.


Hows OC performance on F10? I'm still on F6, hesitant to upgrade due to lack of issuse. However, if any allow a bit higher overclock, or with slightly less voltage, i'll jump up







...

Currently 4.7GHz @ 1.33v on my 3770k with F6 BIOS on UD5H


----------



## Sin0822

Anyone with Samsung ULV stuck at 2200mhz, how GB has made a type of fix and it should now to as high as it can:
Yup, and now let's show some stuff instead of talk!

First off the Z77X-UD5H running 2x4GB Samsung Green [email protected] 2600 Cas 10 T1


Second we have the beautiful Z77X-UP5 TH-CF running 2x4GB Samsung Green [email protected] 2600 Cas 10 T1


I will provide BIOS profiles as well as all the timings I used when it is finalized into a public BIOS. So far this BIOS isn't validated yet.


----------



## irfy

Good News Sin im playin wid F10 now. have been all night. ran into some issues when i shutdown and start, kept getting boot issues. I started OC from scratch again and now almost everything is on auto cranked up multi to 51 X ive put vcore lil higher and fingers crossed my boot issue is gone. Ive Switched PC On n OFF few times seems to be bootin first time now. Im guessin F10 needs more juice.

I hope you will show us Sandybridge + Samsung Green aswell ( I can boot with 4 sticks (2133) just fails after a while)

right me off to bed.


----------



## FoamyV

Hey there guys, finally got my new pc about a week ago and i went with the ud3h. I have a problem though right now, it seems as if coil whine is coming from under the cooler. Did anyone have a similar experience with this? I haven't updated the bios yet since everything worked mostly great until now but i started hearing that noise more and more. It's not that bothering it's like a dimmed humm







ANy help is much appreciated.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hey there guys, finally got my new pc about a week ago and i went with the ud3h. I have a problem though right now, it seems as if coil whine is coming from under the cooler. Did anyone have a similar experience with this? I haven't updated the bios yet since everything worked mostly great until now but i started hearing that noise more and more. It's not that bothering it's like a dimmed humm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ANy help is much appreciated.


Try to disable C3/C6 state.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I think I found the perfect thread for this question.

How does everyone rate and like the Sniper 3? I was thinking of getting it and selling my MSI Z77a GD65. But is it really worth the asking price? The best/cheapest price I can find using google shopping is $260+. That is a damn lot of doe for a mobo. So what say you?

Oh and it can't only take 1600MHz can it?


----------



## FoamyV

Is the msi board not satisfying you or are you just looking for e-peen? It's a good board, why would you change it, be more detailed








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Try to disable C3/C6 state.


Thanks, will try it as soon as i get at my computer. Should i need to worry about that? is that power saving feature going to scoff some years of the cpu as well ?







Heard newer versions of bios might solve the problem in some cases, should i try that or stay with the F7 version of it?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Is the msi board not satisfying you or are you just looking for e-peen? It's a good board, why would you change it, be more detailed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Try to disable C3/C6 state.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, will try it as soon as i get at my computer. Should i need to worry about that? is that power saving feature going to scoff some years of the cpu as well ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heard newer versions of bios might solve the problem in some cases, should i try that or stay with the F7 version of it?
Click to expand...

Eh. I want my case to match in every way and yes the MSI board can be picky. Also it's now not reading my DIMM slot 3 and MSI is stupid with some of their warranty. (Not sure on gigabyte) So I have to send it in to get checked and there is no guarantee I may get it fixed or replaced. It OC's like hell don't get me wrong. But the on board audio is terrad bad, and I really want a 4 way crossfire in the future.


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Eh. I want my case to match in every way and yes the MSI board can be picky. Also it's now not reading my DIMM slot 3 and MSI is stupid with some of their warranty. (Not sure on gigabyte) So I have to send it in to get checked and there is no guarantee I may get it fixed or replaced. It OC's like hell don't get me wrong. But the on board audio is terrad bad, and I really want a 4 way crossfire in the future.


Heh, every board has it's problems it's more about luck in getting a good sample than anything. I'm not going to preach about the usefulness of a 4 way crossfire down the line compared to a simple new generation 2 way but hey if it's your thing then the Msi ain't gonna help you. Every z77 Gigabyte board has gotten good reviews so you'd be fine with getting a sniper barring you get a good sample. It's all up to you.

le: the onboard audio can be solved with the purchase of a new audio card not a new motherboard


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Eh. I want my case to match in every way and yes the MSI board can be picky. Also it's now not reading my DIMM slot 3 and MSI is stupid with some of their warranty. (Not sure on gigabyte) So I have to send it in to get checked and there is no guarantee I may get it fixed or replaced. It OC's like hell don't get me wrong. But the on board audio is terrad bad, and I really want a 4 way crossfire in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> Heh, every board has it's problems it's more about luck in getting a good sample than anything. I'm not going to preach about the usefulness of a 4 way crossfire down the line compared to a simple new generation 2 way but hey if it's your thing then the Msi ain't gonna help you. Every z77 Gigabyte board has gotten good reviews so you'd be fine with getting a sniper barring you get a good sample. It's all up to you.
> 
> le: the onboard audio can be solved with the purchase of a new audio card not a new motherboard
Click to expand...

Quote:


> *I'm not going to preach about the usefulness of a 4 way crossfire down the line compared to a simple new generation 2 way*


huh?

Quote:


> le: the onboard audio can be solved with the purchase of a new audio card not a new motherboard


... I know this. Derp Derp. I am looking at a few SC. the Recon3D Pro, Titanium HD, Claro Halo, Xonar STX. I just cant decide.

Oh you used I.E. incorrectly btw. Not to sound like a jack but...








Quote:


> Answer: The Latin abbreviations "i.e." and "e.g." come up very frequently in writing and would probably come up more often if people were more sure of when it is right to use "i.e." and when "e.g." is required. To me, the only way to figure it out is to know what they stand for.
> I.E. - What Does i.e. Mean?
> 
> "I.e." stands simply for "that is," which written out fully in Latin is 'id est'. "I.e." is used in place of "in other words," or "it/that is." It specifies or makes more clear.
> 
> E.G. - What Does e.g. Mean?
> 
> "E.g." means "for example" and comes from the Latin expression exempli gratia, "for the sake of an example," with the noun exemplum in the genitive (possessive case) and singular to go with gratia in the ablative (prepositional case) singular. "E.g." is used in expressions similar to "including," when you are not intending to list everything that is being discussed.
> 
> Examples of i.e. and e.g.:
> 
> Example 1. Places to Concentrate:
> I.E. (Id Est)
> 
> Sample sentence
> I'm going to the place where I work best, i.e., the coffee shop.
> Explanation
> [There is only one place that I am claiming is best for my work. By using "i.e.", I am telling you I am about to specify it.]
> 
> E.G. (Exempli Gratia)
> 
> Sample sentence
> At the places where I work well, e.g., Starbucks, I have none of the distractions I have at home.
> 
> http://ancienthistory.about.com/od/abbreviations/f/ievseg.htm


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So are there any other boards out there that can full fill my wildest desires?

Green.
Reliable.
4 SLI/CF.
High ram freqs.
Good for OC.

????????????????????


----------



## admflameberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hey there guys, finally got my new pc about a week ago and i went with the ud3h. I have a problem though right now, it seems as if coil whine is coming from under the cooler. Did anyone have a similar experience with this? I haven't updated the bios yet since everything worked mostly great until now but i started hearing that noise more and more. It's not that bothering it's like a dimmed humm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ANy help is much appreciated.


Nope, Mine isnt Coil whining at all. You might have to RMA it if the bios update or fixes that was mention doesn't work.


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> huh?
> 
> ... I know this. Derp Derp. I am looking at a few SC. the Recon3D Pro, Titanium HD, Claro Halo, Xonar STX. I just cant decide.
> Oh you used I.E. incorrectly btw. Not to sound like a jack but...


That wasn't i.e but LE as in later edit you may be excused









As for the 4 way crossfire thing, the cost of such a thing, power consumption, performance issues etc isn't worth it if you're considering doing this at a later time ( 1-2 years don't know what you meant by future); you'd be better of with buying 2 new generation cards. Besides, your cpu won't handle 4 way crossfire so that would need a change as well. When we're talking of such power we're talking about the 2011 platform from the 3930x up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *admflameberg*
> 
> Nope, Mine isnt Coil whining at all. You might have to RMA it if the bios update or fixes that was mention doesn't work.


Thank you for the suggestion, where i'm from RMA-ing doesn't go that well so i might just get charged extra for the diagnostic/shipping. I'll use that as a last resort. Is it true that it doesn't affect the pc in anyway aside from the noise?


----------



## mandrix

F10 BIOS working good, sleep working good. XMP profiles on Kingston ram working. Haven't flashed my other rig yet with the 2400 Trident ram, will do that later.
Got a piece of a ziptie or something dropped through one of my radiators and hitting a fan. Occasionally makes a sound like when we used to put cards on our bicycle spokes when I was a kid.


----------



## steve210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hey there guys, finally got my new pc about a week ago and i went with the ud3h. I have a problem though right now, it seems as if coil whine is coming from under the cooler. Did anyone have a similar experience with this? I haven't updated the bios yet since everything worked mostly great until now but i started hearing that noise more and more. It's not that bothering it's like a dimmed humm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ANy help is much appreciated.


I got say f11 bios is stable for me but I update my bios from f7 I have not had any problems yet .


----------



## FoamyV

ok had my second bsod, disabling the states didn't work, what's a good version of bios for the ud3h? thank you


----------



## EvgeniX

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Anyone with Samsung ULV stuck at 2200mhz, how GB has made a type of fix and it should now to as high as it can:
> Yup, and now let's show some stuff instead of talk!
> First off the Z77X-UD5H running 2x4GB Samsung Green [email protected] 2600 Cas 10 T1
> 
> Second we have the beautiful Z77X-UP5 TH-CF running 2x4GB Samsung Green [email protected] 2600 Cas 10 T1
> 
> I will provide BIOS profiles as well as all the timings I used when it is finalized into a public BIOS. So far this BIOS isn't validated yet.






good new! hope they will give us soon...

can you test 4 sticks?????


----------



## Matt26LFC

Hi All, just got my new 3570K with Corsair Dominator Platinums and Gigabyte UD5H up and running.

Tell me, on the Debug LED is it supposed to be on A0 all the time? I'm in Windows and seemingly having no problems so far, just wondered if its supposed to be like that?

Just going through the motions of Windows Updates now, when will they release SP2 already so I can slip stream it!!

Anyway, not done much testing yet, or Overclocking just trying to get all the software on atm


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> ok had my second bsod, disabling the states didn't work, what's a good version of bios for the ud3h? thank you


I am using 12L. It is a modded bios/beta bios from TT. I am not 100% sure the new bioses 'fix' the problems many of us have, since checking the details of what's modded is almost never anything to do with the problems being experienced (at least in my case). Might be a placebo effect, lol. But it's worth a try to update any way just to see if it does for you.

What is the error code for the BSOD you're having? I've had issues with my ud3h some of which went away with the use of a spinner. That instantly told me that the SSD is a problem. I swapped my SSD to one with a different chipset but it still had some issues. They seem to have settled now (haven't had a freeze since the 9th).

My problem with the SSD was the 0xF4 BSOD in Windows 7. In Windows 8 the error is represented as a slow freeze then crash. Apps slowly stop working, though you can click them and then a sudden beep and nothing is clickable though the mouse still moves. The PC doesn't absolutely crash so there is no chance for it to write a log error. This error was thought to be fixed on July 26 I think with an update to Windows 8 but it still might happen in some cases, at least for me. For you, the error would be 0xF4 if it is the SSD. If the error is with iastor.sys or something similar then it's got something to do with your raid driver. Install the newest package you can find from Gigabyte or Intel. The newest intel chipset driver will generally be found under an Intel desktop board, they take a bit of time to post it under the general chipset section. Also make sure you update or install Rapid Storage Technology package. These are pretty important.

I can't put my finger on exactly what caused my issues to stop, but I made 2 changes just before. These are changes I had/have never made before.
The first is enabling hot swapping of the port that my SSD is on in the BIOS.
The second was disabling the superfetch service completely. I was hesitant before because I also have a spinner and it seems that my MMO loads slightly slower without it but I can live with that for now. I will be moving my games to a secondary SSD anyway once I buy it. I don't play that many games so a 60-128GB drive should do. I haven't done anything else that could have stopped my freezes so it has to be one of these.

I'm assuming you know the typical SSD primer steps but I'll put what I've done anyway. I disabled hibernation and indexing. The rest SHOULD be done by Windows 7 and 8 (disable superfetch/prefetch, readyboot, defrag of SSD, boot file defrag, etc.) so I haven't touched my registry. I'm hoping that Windows 8 really does disable all of this.


----------



## FoamyV

I updated to the latest bios just now, waiting for the bsod to happen The humming sound is still there though, i really have no idea where that would be coming from, it sounds as if it's right under the cooler. Oh and i managed to see what sys is in the blue screen, on my latest it's Intelppm.sys, if any of you have any idea what that means. Hope i'll be getting more answers. Thank you.

Oh and i have a PCI Simple Communications Controller that i can't seem to find a driver for, windows update doesn't help and i downloaded everything on the drivers part of the gb site, nothing, any ideas?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Oh and i have a PCI Simple Communications Controller that i can't seem to find a driver for, windows update doesn't help and i downloaded everything on the drivers part of the gb site, nothing, any ideas?


That should be covered under Intel Management Engine Interface and Intel INF installation.
Are you sure that both are installed?


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> That should be covered under Intel Management Engine Interface and Intel INF installation.
> Are you sure that both are installed?


Thank you, that did it, the device manager is now clean







Looks like the noise is getting louder and louder and it seems to be coil whine since if i tilt my head in a way the sound disappears. How lucky could i be ?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Thank you, that did it, the device manager is now clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the noise is getting louder and louder and it seems to be coil whine since if i tilt my head in a way the sound disappears. How lucky could i be ?


Are you using Thermalright True Spirit 120, right? I know that in some cases you can hear humming noise when using stock Intel heatsink (air noise).


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Are you using Thermalright True Spirit 120, right? I know that in some cases you can hear humming noise when using stock Intel heatsink (air noise).


Yes, i'm using the Thermalright True Spirit 120 from the beginning, don't know how come i didn't hear it until now, the only major thing i did these days was to use the optimizer on the Samsung 830 tool. It had something about power options, don't think that would be it, i even reverted the changes and nothing happened . Think i was listening to too much music and i didn't notice it until now.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfy*
> 
> Good News Sin im playin wid F10 now. have been all night. ran into some issues when i shutdown and start, kept getting boot issues. I started OC from scratch again and now almost everything is on auto cranked up multi to 51 X ive put vcore lil higher and fingers crossed my boot issue is gone. Ive Switched PC On n OFF few times seems to be bootin first time now. Im guessin F10 needs more juice.
> I hope you will show us Sandybridge + Samsung Green aswell ( I can boot with 4 sticks (2133) just fails after a while)
> right me off to bed.


Sandy bridge your upper limit is usually 2133 for stability, that is just how it is, sandy bridge doesn't have a memory controller like Ivy bridge. sorry








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So are there any other boards out there that can full fill my wildest desires?
> Green.
> Reliable.
> 4 SLI/CF.
> High ram freqs.
> Good for OC.
> ????????????????????


No just Sniper 3 LOL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> good new! hope they will give us soon...
> can you test 4 sticks?????


I am told 4 sticks stability is better than 2 by the BIOS guy. I don't have 4 sticks.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Thank you, that did it, the device manager is now clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the noise is getting louder and louder and it seems to be coil whine since if i tilt my head in a way the sound disappears. How lucky could i be ?


Id RMA if you have coil, whine, it would just be a bad coil, it happens. If it doesn't' disappear it could be your PSu or your GPU as well.


----------



## Sin0822

here are the timings I used for 2600mhz with samsung green on UD5H and UP5: Yea try this:
10
12
12
25

Auto
6
6
12
Auto
8
147
6
27
T1
Auto
Auto

7936
69
5
5
4
4
6
3
6
5
5


----------



## r0ach

You guys install Intel Management Interface Engine? I don't.

I can't figure out any use it provides besides some remote access and other stuff that isn't relevant to normal desktop use.


----------



## Sin0822

DUDE YOU HAVE TO INSTALL THAT!!!!!

That intel management thing does a lot more than you think, ME as it is called is what runs your motherboard, the BIOS communicates with it all the time. it is very important. Like perhaps that is what can cause your freezes, if you aren't installing ME and using a PCI device.


----------



## haogi

I have a z77x-UD3H with version f11

Whenever I try to enter the bios screen my screen freezes. Can I install f13 to solve this?

My setup: i7 3770k, radeon 7870, 8GB Gskill 1600MHz, ssd force gt and a seagate 1tb sata 3.

ty guys!


----------



## Sin0822

it freezes even when you are at stock?


----------



## Sin0822

here are the Samsung BIOSes:
here are the BIOSes UP5 http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?2a68g1hg5iv08o7
UD5H: http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?c88l5bnj86gx37n


----------



## haogi

what you mean with stock? im not pro in hardware things and im from chile, my english is poor


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haogi*
> 
> what you mean with stock? im not pro in hardware things and im from chile, my english is poor


Not overclocked. It usually freezes when there is unstable overclock.

I assume you are not overclocked. Did you just build it? Did you install Windows?

I am interested if OS boots,


----------



## haogi

aah ok. i STILL didnt overclocked the CPU but my GPU is overclocked. I dont know if this counts...

Yeah, i have win7 64 bits installed and im on the computer now lol


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haogi*
> 
> aah ok. i STILL didnt overclocked the CPU but my GPU is overclocked. I dont know if this counts...
> Yeah, i have win7 64 bits installed and im on the computer now lol


OK then, try to switching to secondary BIOS (there is a switch on the motherboard, check your manual). If it freezes with it, you need to update the BIOS. I wonder if Q-flash launches (you need to press F8 on the post screen). If it does not, you may need to flash the BIOS using Gigabyte's Windows utility which is not recommended or dos.


----------



## Sin0822

just use @BIOS and flash it from a file you download. Make sure to reboot and try to go into the BIOS, also clear the CMOS too.


----------



## FoamyV

i'm trying to do a memtest86+ run but i don't have a dvd/floppy, using the usb doesn't work unfortunately, heard it has to do something with the uefi bios. Are there any other reliable memory testing apps or is there a workaround regarding memtest aside from buying a dvd writer?

I started getting more and more bsods with different errors, knew this board will be a hassle but i liked the layout and color


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> i'm trying to do a memtest86+ run but i don't have a dvd/floppy, using the usb doesn't work unfortunately, heard it has to do something with the uefi bios. Are there any other reliable memory testing apps or is there a workaround regarding memtest aside from buying a dvd writer?
> I started getting more and more bsods with different errors, knew this board will be a hassle but i liked the layout and color


I used memtest on my board with USB stick. It worked perfectly. What's happening? It does not even launch?

Please, check the format box.


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I used memtest on my board with USB stick. It worked perfectly.


i tried with two different sticks, even using the 5.0 beta version and it doesn't boot even if i remove the other devices. What could be wrong?


----------



## haogi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> just use @BIOS and flash it from a file you download. Make sure to reboot and try to go into the BIOS, also clear the CMOS too.


which version you recommend? F13? Can i downgrade to another one?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> i tried with two different sticks, even using the 5.0 beta version and it doesn't boot even if i remove the other devices. What could be wrong?


That means you did not make it bootable. If you check the box, it should work.

Unless UD3H BIOS is really bad, which I seriously doubt the problem is in the way memtest was "prepared" on the flash drive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haogi*
> 
> which version you recommend? F13? Can i downgrade to another one?


Well, at this moment try anything else. You can downgrade whenever you want.


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> That means you did not make it bootable. If you check the box, it should work.
> Unless UD3H BIOS is really bad, which I seriously doubt the problem is in the way memtest was "prepared" on the flash drive.


Well if i had to make it myself i'd say it would be a problem but it's just a double click app that launches and makes the boot usb







Are the ud3h/ud5h bios different?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Well if i had to make it myself i'd say it would be a problem but it's just a double click app that launches and makes the boot usb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are the ud3h/ud5h bios different?


I just made bootable memtest with to click app and yes, it launched. Check in disk manager if your flash drive is active.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The BIOS obviously different







(code, not look or functionality), but I seriously doubt that Gigabyte implemented fix for UD5H but missed it for UD3H.

If you are sure that MBR was created on the flash drive, try using other ports on UD3H. VIA USBs can be tricky, so try to use the ones that are not on VIA controller.

Also do this may sound dumb, but do you press F12 and choice your flash drive from the list?


----------



## haogi

I tried the F8 and received this error:


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haogi*
> 
> I tried the F8 and received this error:


Are you using Gigabyte server as update method?

If you use the file, do you get an error right after you choose?

Does it even start flashing?


----------



## haogi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Are you using Gigabyte server as update method?
> If you use the file, do you get an error right after you choose?
> Does it even start flashing?


I downloaded the file. Yes, it begins to load the file but at a certain time this message appears.


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I just made bootable memtest with to click app and yes, it launched. Check in disk manager if your flash drive is active.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BIOS obviously different
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (code, not look or functionality), but I seriously doubt that Gigabyte implemented fix for UD5H but missed it for UD3H.
> If you are sure that MBR was created on the flash drive, try using other ports on UD3H. VIA USBs can be tricky, so try to use the ones that are not on VIA controller.
> Also do this may sound dumb, but do you press F12 and choice your flash drive from the list?


Thanks for trying to help, yes the USB is active and i do press F12 to try and force load it but it just skips and goes on to load windows 7, i even removed the windows 7 drive from the bootmenu at which point it just gives the usual error of no proper boot device. Trying another port now, any other advices are sure welcomed.

What are the files on your usb after the app?

Later edit: and it's a no go, it still doesn't work...


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Thanks for trying to help, yes the USB is active and i do press F12 to try and force load it but it just skips and goes on to load windows 7, i even removed the windows 7 drive from the bootmenu at which point it just gives the usual error of no proper boot device. Trying another port now, any other advices are sure welcomed.
> What are the files on your usb after the app?
> Later edit: and it's a no go, it still doesn't work...


It's really weird that it ignores F12 press...

Check BIOS features section -> BBS priorities (I assume UD3H has it).


Does it show up there?

If it does use Save & Exit to boot override.


Spoiler: Flash Drive: Spoiler!


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It's really weird that it ignores F12 press...
> Check BIOS features section -> BBS priorities (I assume UD3H has it).
> 
> Does it show up there?
> If it does use Save & Exit to boot override.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Flash Drive: Spoiler!


Yep it has but mine doesn't show the USB type it just puts UEFI usb device or something like that. Leaving that aside i've started to see a pattern, if i leave any of my usb drives plugged in after a while the Explorer stops responding, it keeps failing and asking for a restart. Nothing but a full restart of the system fixes it and when i do restart i get the memory bsod 0x1a. Hate it that i can't use memtest to stress the memory, i used the windows memory testing before boot and it didn't find a thing. On top of that the sound keeps getting more and more annoying.


----------



## Sin0822

Do you have an eSATA device that might cause a time out?


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Do you have an eSATA device that might cause a time out?


Nope, haven't even connected the eSata socket, i only have a sata 2 hdd with a sata 3 ssd, 2 memory sticks at 1.5 1333, the i7, 1 usb mouse, 1 usb keyboard, the lan cable and a pair of 2.1 speakers, i use the onboard video for the moment. Those are all the connections to the motherboard. Will start tinkering a bit today since i can't contact support in the weekend. Any more advice is always welcomed. Thanks for helping me.

Forgot about the fans, i have 3 3pin fans connected to the mb.

Later edit: ok after tinkering a bit with the PC i have found the following:

1. the samsung ssd "blocked" the usb from getting recongnized; after i removed it from the sata3( no.1 slot) memtest started running after the first reboot

2. the memory seems to be full of errors, since i'm using the onboard video does it have any fault in this? i got to 54 errors in less than 5 minutes, will test the memory's individually but since it's a pack i'll probably send them back togheter ( the memory is stated at 1600 mhz yet in the bios it shows 1333, should i bump it up, would it being at 1333 cause errors?)

3. after removing every fan from the mb, including the cpu fan i discovered that the noise went from clearly audible to almost not hearing it, what would be the cause of that? when i put the cpu fan back on it starts singing again, i cleared the fan of any dust including the "radiator", it's week old so there wasn't that many but the noise can still be heard.

4. putting everything togheter i moved the sata2 and sata3 cables ( i used both of the black ones, if it's bad i'll put the blue one on the sata 2) on the sata 0/sata 3 positions ( formerly 1/4) and now the ssd and usb work toghter

Don't know if this helps you in making me understand what's wrong but i would like to rma the board only in the last instance, i will probably pay for the transport and diagnostics since here the service is really bad and only after 2-3 ships will they recognize it has a problem but that would mean i would have payed for half the board only in transport. If you recommend me that though i'll see what i can do.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Nope, haven't even connected the eSata socket, i only have a sata 2 hdd with a sata 3 ssd, 2 memory sticks at 1.5 1333, the i7, 1 usb mouse, 1 usb keyboard, the lan cable and a pair of 2.1 speakers, i use the onboard video for the moment. Those are all the connections to the motherboard. Will start tinkering a bit today since i can't contact support in the weekend. Any more advice is always welcomed. Thanks for helping me.
> Forgot about the fans, i have 3 3pin fans connected to the mb.


1333 RAM?
What exactly was your problem? Random lock ups in BIOS/Windows? I did run into a few problems with 1333 RAM when I had to borrow 4GB off a friend, it would just lock up every so often


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> 1333 RAM?
> What exactly was your problem? Random lock ups in BIOS/Windows? I did run into a few problems with 1333 RAM when I had to borrow 4GB off a friend, it would just lock up every so often


Hey thanks for answering, the memory is 1600 yet in bios it shows 1333, should i up the speed and see if i get any errors? would that be a cause?

The problems started with that sound i heard from under the cooler, it's a humming sound like a coil noise but when i removed the cpu fan and started it without the sound almost was gone, it was still there but not that loud, if i would've started the rest of the case fans i most probably wouldn't have heard it.

After updating to the latest bios though i started getting a lot of 0x1a bsods pointing at the memory.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hey thanks for answering, the memory is 1600 yet in bios it shows 1333, should i up the speed and see if i get any errors? would that be a cause?
> The problems started with that sound i heard from under the cooler, it's a humming sound like a coil noise but when i removed the cpu fan and started it without the sound almost was gone, it was still there but not that loud, if i would've started the rest of the case fans i most probably wouldn't have heard it.
> After updating to the latest bios though i started getting a lot of 0x1a bsods pointing at the memory.


Yes, manually set the timings also.

Also make sure the CR (Command Rate) is set at 2 as this is easier to achieve stability with. (it is used at stock).
Assuming you're using the Geil Black dragon in your sig rig you shouldn't need a voltage bump on the IMC but you might like to try that also.

I had a quick look at the Geil Black dragon specs, you might want to manually enter the voltage to be sure that it's getting the juice it needs!


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> here are the timings I used for 2600mhz with samsung green on UD5H and UP5: Yea try this:
> 10
> 12
> 12
> 25
> Auto
> 6
> 6
> 12
> Auto
> 8
> 147
> 6
> 27
> T1
> Auto
> Auto
> 7936
> 69
> 5
> 5
> 4
> 4
> 6
> 3
> 6
> 5
> 5


Hey Sin, what voltages did you use for that setup?
Stock imc voltage I assume, but what vdimm?
I'd like to know before my 3770k gets here this Friday...








Thanks!


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Yes, manually set the timings also.
> Also make sure the CR (Command Rate) is set at 2 as this is easier to achieve stability with. (it is used at stock).
> Assuming you're using the Geil Black dragon in your sig rig you shouldn't need a voltage bump on the IMC but you might like to try that also.
> I had a quick look at the Geil Black dragon specs, you might want to manually enter the voltage to be sure that it's getting the juice it needs!


Used the xmp profile and they bumped right up to 1600 with the stated timings at 1.5. One of them ran 7 passes on memtest, the second one got 24 erros in 1 minute. Guess it's faulty and i should send it back right? I've hopefully found the reason to those many bsod's, the noise is still there though, i'll have to think some more on that. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Used the xmp profile and they bumped right up to 1600 with the stated timings at 1.5. One of them ran 7 passes on memtest, the second one got 24 erros in 1 minute. Guess it's faulty and i should send it back right? I've hopefully found the reason to those many bsod's, the noise is still there though, i'll have to think some more on that. Thanks again for the help.


Nice! Yes, sounds like a dodgy stick. Send it back









As for the whine.. I really have no idea sorry..


----------



## mandrix

@ Sin:
One of my UD5H boards code readout is constantly displaying "03" after booting into Win 7. Only recent change(s) is F9q then F10 bios, and to enable sleep in Windows.
Could you ask the good folks at Gigabyte what, if anything, this means? This code isn't in the manual, and previously it always displayed "A0" after booting. No problems I'm aware of, but still.........

Thanks.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> @ Sin:
> One of my UD5H boards code readout is constantly displaying "03" after booting into Win 7. Only recent change(s) is F9q then F10 bios, and to enable sleep in Windows.
> Could you ask the good folks at Gigabyte what, if anything, this means? This code isn't in the manual, and previously it always displayed "A0" after booting. No problems I'm aware of, but still.........
> 
> Thanks.


Strange, mine displays 03, but only when booted into Linux. In Windows 7, it's always A0.


----------



## FoamyV

After 3 hours of prime95 on blend the system is stable, the temps though got up to 68 on one core, is it a bit too much? and the noise is still there


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> @ Sin:
> One of my UD5H boards code readout is constantly displaying "03" after booting into Win 7. Only recent change(s) is F9q then F10 bios, and to enable sleep in Windows.
> Could you ask the good folks at Gigabyte what, if anything, this means? This code isn't in the manual, and previously it always displayed "A0" after booting. No problems I'm aware of, but still.........
> Thanks.


If I remember correctly, mine usually reads A0, but it seems to read 03 after it has been to sleep at least once. I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that the 03 meant that the last state had been a 03 sleep state.


----------



## haogi

****, I cant reset that ******* bios! Tried everything, remove battery, cmos button and a downgrade with @bios









Does anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## haogi

Apparently I found the problem! I took the gpu card off and the bios screen didnt freeze









I did a downgrade to F8 bios, ill try now with this version and my gpu to see what will happen...

Ty all for the help!


----------



## EvgeniX

So anyone with 4x4GB Samsung 30nm running 2133+ ??? can you share BIOS profile? Thx


----------



## Sin0822

i like 03 is a different state, many codes are there just for debugging purposes an not in the manual.

I used 1.7v for 2600


----------



## akabrainysmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> So anyone with 4x4GB Samsung 30nm running 2133+ ??? can you share BIOS profile? Thx


I'm running 4x4gb 2133 10-10-10-30-1T @ 1.5v on a UD5H w/ F10x. I'm not sure how useful my settings will be for you, especially since I pretty much changed nothing. My 3770k is OC'd to 4.5 as well. Lots of pics, see spoiler.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





































































I had to change very little. Maybe I just have a good IMC? HyperPI 32M No errors, memtest86+ 3 full passes, IBT Very High 20x Pass.

ud5h_f10x_30nm.zip 1k .zip file


----------



## cab2

@ smurf Nice! You didn't have to bump CPU voltage to get up to 4.5GHz?

I'm sunning Samsung M379B5273DH0-YK0 / UD5H at 8-8-8-22 /1600 because it shows trivial perofrmance gains above that.


----------



## akabrainysmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> @ smurf Nice! You didn't have to bump CPU voltage to get up to 4.5GHz?


A bit. I was "stable" with -.025 offset voltage, but I was getting WHEA errors. -.015 is rock solid so far. I've been stingy with the volts because of ivy's heat dissipation issues. Since I'm able to run it so low I'm tempted to do a TIM replacement, but at 4.5 I'm seeing my hot core reach 84 in IBT. That's with 80F ambient ~26C.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akabrainysmurf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> @ smurf Nice! You didn't have to bump CPU voltage to get up to 4.5GHz?
> 
> 
> 
> A bit. I was "stable" with -.025 offset voltage, but I was getting WHEA errors. -.015 is rock solid so far. I've been stingy with the volts because of ivy's heat dissipation issues. Since I'm able to run it so low I'm tempted to do a TIM replacement, but at 4.5 I'm seeing my hot core reach 84 in IBT. That's with 80F ambient ~26C.
Click to expand...

If you are not a 24/7 folder I wouldn't be too concerned with the hot temps you're seeing. In stress testing you'll see those temps, but during any sort of gaming or anything you'll see far lower... by 15-20C even. So if you stress and get it stable at 95C, you'll game at 75-80C.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akabrainysmurf*
> 
> I'm running 4x4gb 2133 10-10-10-30-1T @ 1.5v on a UD5H w/ F10x. I'm not sure how useful my settings will be for you, especially since I pretty much changed nothing. My 3770k is OC'd to 4.5 as well. Lots of pics, see spoiler.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to change very little. Maybe I just have a good IMC? HyperPI 32M No errors, memtest86+ 3 full passes, IBT Very High 20x Pass.
> 
> ud5h_f10x_30nm.zip 1k .zip file


Wow, Thats a different way to get 4.5 than we did on my board. Looks like you did yours all in the Turbo adjustments. I never entered that screen. And where you did a -(DVID) I had to go with a +0.045. Interesting. What core voltage does CPUID show when its under a load @ 4.5? Mine is 1.236v.

Mine runs stable in Prime95 for 20+ hours using 90% RAM & max temp on one core was 80°c. I had to keep bumping my DVID up until I got no more WHEA's. The screen shot is from when running F8 but the settings are the same in F10x.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Strange, mine displays 03, but only when booted into Linux. In Windows 7, it's always A0.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> If I remember correctly, mine usually reads A0, but it seems to read 03 after it has been to sleep at least once. I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that the 03 meant that the last state had been a 03 sleep state.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i like 03 is a different state, many codes are there just for debugging purposes an not in the manual.
> I used 1.7v for 2600


So nothing seems wrong, just seems strange. Since I just recently started using sleep, I don't have a handle on whether it's related to that or the later BIOS. When I get around to flashing my other board I'll see what happens with the code on that one.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> So nothing seems wrong, just seems strange. Since I just recently started using sleep, I don't have a handle on whether it's related to that or the later BIOS. When I get around to flashing my other board I'll see what happens with the code on that one.


Your are not alone, mine is 03 also. And you know my system.


----------



## 2therock

Update, F10x on stock clock on BIOS switch 1 is AO, Clocked on BIOS switch 2 is 03.


----------



## starry

This is the first rig I've ever put together; and threw in a UD3H and even though I've been using this for almost a month; I just noticed something I never noticed before.

That being a red LED number display on my MOBO(my case has a side window). I don't know if these numbers were ever there or if this is something that just popped up, but I'm just now noticing it. Can anyone tell me what exactly it is, and what it's for? lol. Sadly I googled it and couldn't figure it out...Ive never had a mobo that displayed anything internally before(outside of the nomal beeps and led flashes)..so this is foreign to me. [For reference the display is next to the SysFan1 input.

Edit: found a few references; its the debug LED apparently. Is this normally on? Like I said I never noticed it before; and it seems to be on 100% of the time now..did something unintentionally turn on?


----------



## Sin0822

yes it normally is always on! that is what these guys are talking about A0 is for the main BIOS and it seems 03 is for the backup, a way for the board to tell which is one perhaps, but nothing to worry about. The debug LED is very important for overclocking and system building if you ever have na issue you will know what causes it from the debugger. Also int he USA they dont' see post code cards like they do oversees, i think it is an FTC crap that makes them hard to find.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Wow, Thats a different way to get 4.5 than we did on my board. Looks like you did yours all in the Turbo adjustments. I never entered that screen. And where you did a -(DVID) I had to go with a +0.045. Interesting. What core voltage does CPUID show when its under a load @ 4.5? Mine is 1.236v.
> Mine runs stable in Prime95 for 20+ hours using 90% RAM & max temp on one core was 80°c. I had to keep bumping my DVID up until I got no more WHEA's. The screen shot is from when running F8 but the settings are the same in F10x.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I too thought that for OC the offset should be positive not negative. I like simple, I get stable 4GHz with just a multiplier change and everything else on AUTO. I'd love to go 4.5 with just a simple multiplier + voltage change, but where?


----------



## Sin0822

oh also if you are wondering why the dram voltage is 1.65v at stock, it is that way if a user sets the DRAm multiplier above 24x.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> huh?
> 
> ... I know this. Derp Derp. I am looking at a few SC. the Recon3D Pro, Titanium HD, Claro Halo, Xonar STX. I just cant decide.
> Oh you used I.E. incorrectly btw. Not to sound like a jack but...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That wasn't i.e but LE as in later edit you may be excused
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the 4 way crossfire thing, the cost of such a thing, power consumption, performance issues etc isn't worth it if you're considering doing this at a later time ( 1-2 years don't know what you meant by future); you'd be better of with buying 2 new generation cards. Besides, your cpu won't handle 4 way crossfire so that would need a change as well. When we're talking of such power we're talking about the 2011 platform from the 3930x up.
Click to expand...

Oh. My bad lol. So can you explain the cf sli more? Why would an 1155 board support 4 way?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Oh. My bad lol. So can you explain the cf sli more? Why would an 1155 board support 4 way?


1155 supports 4 way Crossfire on any board with 4 PCI-E that gives x4 per lane. Or 4-way SLI on any board with PLX chip.

However, what he probably means is that any 1155 CPU would potentially bottleneck powerful 4 way SLI/Crossfire setup anyway, so there is no point.


----------



## McDoney

Hey,

my machine freezes now after one to five Minutes while using Linx/Linpack.
No OC, Stock Clocks.
Memtest86+ runs ok (forgot to mention it)
CPU defective? Mainboard Problem?

Board: GA Z77 UD5H, F10 (August/2012)
CPU i7-3770K
iGFX: disabled
GPU: EVGA GTX 680 SC Signature
RAM: ADATA AD3U1600W8G11-2, Premier 16GB KIT (2x8GB), PC3-12800
Using the onboard Sound (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
SSD: Vertex 4 as Boot/OS Drive (SATA3 Port)
SSD: Vertex 2 as Data Drive (SATA3 POrt (I Know, Vertex 2 is SATA2))
HDD: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Black Edition as RAID0 (SATA2 Ports)
DVD Burner: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NS90
USB 2.0: Cherry klick Keyboard (MX3000)
USB 2.0: Logitech G5
No additional PCI Card


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey,
> my machine freezes now afer one to five Minutes while using Linx/Linpack.
> No OC, Stock Clocks.
> CPU defective? Mainboard Problem?
> Board: GA Z77 UD5H, F10 (August/2012)
> CPU i7-3770K
> iGFX: disabled
> GPU: EVGA GTX 680 SC Signature
> RAM: ADATA AD3U1600W8G11-2, Premier 16GB KIT (2x8GB), PC3-12800
> Using the onboard Sound (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
> PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
> SSD: Vertex 4 as Boot/OS Drive (SATA3 Port)
> SSD: Vertex 2 as Data Drive (SATA3 POrt (I Know, Vertex 2 is SATA2))
> HDD: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Black Edition as RAID0 (SATA2 Ports)
> DVD Burner: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NS90
> USB 2.0: Cherry klick Keyboard (MX3000)
> USB 2.0: Logitech G5
> No additional PCI Card


Try to run memtest.


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Try to run memtest.


Hey,

Memtest without problems.

Addendum:
CPU Runs stable with following values:
[email protected] GHz 50°C with 43 Watt TDP and VCore: 0.95 Volt


The machine freezes after one to five Minutes while using Linx/Linpack.
No OC, Stock Clocks.
Memtest86+ runs ok
CPU defective? Mainboard Problem?

Board: GA Z77 UD5H, F10 (August/2012)
CPU i7-3770K
iGFX: disabled
GPU: EVGA GTX 680 SC Signature
RAM: ADATA AD3U1600W8G11-2, Premier 16GB KIT (2x8GB), PC3-12800
Using the onboard Sound (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
SSD: Vertex 4 as Boot/OS Drive (SATA3 Port)
SSD: Vertex 2 as Data Drive (SATA3 POrt (I Know, Vertex 2 is SATA2))
HDD: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Black Edition as RAID0 (SATA2 Ports)
DVD Burner: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NS90
USB 2.0: Cherry klick Keyboard (MX3000)
USB 2.0: Logitech G5
No additional PCI Card


----------



## DeXel

So it is stable underclocked?

Check the stock voltage with CPU-Z under load and try adding a little more manually in the BIOS.


----------



## McDoney

Hey,

the CPU is stable underclocked. Turbo and Hyper Threading is disabled.
When I use 3.2 GHz with Auto VCore -> Freeze
When I use 3.2 GHz with VCore manually 1.2 Volt -> Freeze

Temps seem ok.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey,
> the CPU is stable underclocked. Turbo and Hyper Threading is disabled.
> When I use 3.2 GHz with Auto VCore -> Freeze
> When I use 3.2 GHz with VCore manually 1.2 Volt -> Freeze
> Temps seem ok.


Update to a different bios, mostly F9 if you could find it. I also had problems with F10 stability.


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Update to a different bios, mostly F9 if you could find it. I also had problems with F10 stability.


Hey,

atm trying Bios F10x (just flashed). So far I need 1.35 VCore to run @3.5GHz.
That seems a bit drastic, doesnt it?

So far, Linpack/Linx runs stable. Crashes happened mostly in the first two minutes.


Where can I get Bios Version F9?

Don


----------



## coolhandluke41

here bro

z77xud5h.9q.zip 3854k .zip file


P.S. load optimized/flash/shut down-clear cmos/load optimized


----------



## McDoney

Thanks, Luke. Will try now!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Update, F10x on stock clock on BIOS switch 1 is AO, Clocked on BIOS switch 2 is 03.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yes it normally is always on! that is what these guys are talking about A0 is for the main BIOS and it seems 03 is for the backup, a way for the board to tell which is one perhaps, but nothing to worry about. The debug LED is very important for overclocking and system building if you ever have na issue you will know what causes it from the debugger. Also int he USA they dont' see post code cards like they do oversees, i think it is an FTC crap that makes them hard to find.


Yep, forgot the main rig was on the backup bios. You guys are absolutely right, funny I never noticed before.


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Thanks, Luke. Will try now!


Testing now with F9q
[email protected] 3.5GHz with VCore on Auto
Hyper Threading disabled
Turbo Boost dsiabled

Board: GA Z77 UD5H, F9q (1. August 2012)
CPU i7-3770K
iGFX: disabled
GPU: EVGA GTX 680 SC Signature
RAM: ADATA AD3U1600W8G11-2, Premier 16GB KIT (2x8GB), PC3-12800
Using the onboard Sound (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
SSD: Vertex 4 as Boot/OS Drive (SATA3 Port)
SSD: Vertex 2 as Data Drive (SATA3 POrt (I Know, Vertex 2 is SATA2))
HDD: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Black Edition as RAID0 (SATA2 Ports)
DVD Burner: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NS90
USB 2.0: Cherry klick Keyboard (MX3000)
USB 2.0: Logitech G5
No additional PCI Card


----------



## coolhandluke41

if you running stock the only thing you may want to change is your RAM settings since you running 16Gb (you may need a higher VCCIO (VTT) ,try 1.12v~1.15v and DIMM 1.55V),run 32M super PI ..see if you get errors
EDIT; don't turn off Turbo Boost


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Testing now with F9q
> [email protected] 3.5GHz with VCore on Auto
> Hyper Threading disabled
> Turbo Boost dsiabled
> Board: GA Z77 UD5H, F9q (1. August 2012)
> CPU i7-3770K
> iGFX: disabled
> GPU: EVGA GTX 680 SC Signature
> RAM: ADATA AD3U1600W8G11-2, Premier 16GB KIT (2x8GB), PC3-12800
> Using the onboard Sound (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
> PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
> SSD: Vertex 4 as Boot/OS Drive (SATA3 Port)
> SSD: Vertex 2 as Data Drive (SATA3 POrt (I Know, Vertex 2 is SATA2))
> HDD: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Black Edition as RAID0 (SATA2 Ports)
> DVD Burner: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NS90
> USB 2.0: Cherry klick Keyboard (MX3000)
> USB 2.0: Logitech G5
> No additional PCI Card


So I guess that you aren't needing 1.35V at the VCore just for 3.5Ghz now right?


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> So I guess that you aren't needing 1.35V at the VCore just for 3.5Ghz now right?


Hey,

CPU runs stable with F9q @ Stock Clocks without Turbo (VCore on Auto)
With Turbo Boost, CPU freezes in Super Pi.

Also:
Raised VTT to 1.15V
Raised DIMM to 1.55V

*Now testing:
VCore on Normal + 0.1Volt Dynamic VCore

Addendum:
Super Pi runs without Freezes now*


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I too thought that for OC the offset should be positive not negative. I like simple, I get stable 4GHz with just a multiplier change and everything else on AUTO. I'd love to go 4.5 with just a simple multiplier + voltage change, but where?


Here is my 4.5 Clock. The Setup RAID is a reminder for me not to forget to change my setting from AHCI to RAID right after a flash or an optimum setting reset.

The timings are Kingston's default. Your (DVID) offset amount amount may vary according to your boards circuitry personality. I started at +0.025 and moved up .005 at a time until I passed Intel Burn Test on High without showing WHEA warnings in Event Viewer and then moved on to Prime95 with a custom pass set to use 90% RAM for 8 hrs. Then ran it for 20hrs to make sure.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey,
> CPU runs stable with F9q @ Stock Clocks without Turbo (VCore on Auto)
> With Turbo Boost, CPU freezes in Super Pi.
> Also:
> Raised VTT to 1.15V
> Raised DIMM to 1.55V
> *Now testing:
> VCore on Normal + 0.1Volt Dynamic VCore
> Addendum:
> Super Pi runs without Freezes now*


Well that's some good news. On stock volts and stock frequency, your system shouldn't be freezing/hanging at all, but rather you be able to OC your CPU a bit higher than 4Ghz (on stock volts).


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Well that's some good news. On stock volts and stock frequency, your system shouldn't be freezing/hanging at all, but rather you be able to OC your CPU a bit higher than 4Ghz (on stock volts).


Linx now ran 50 Minutes without freezes. Ten Minutes after starting Furmark BurnIn Bench (additionaly), I got a freeze.

Got the following values set manually:

[email protected] 4GHz w/o Turbo
*VCore: 1.165V*
CPUVTT: 1.15V (16GB RAM)
CPUPLL: 1,800V
IMC: 0,925
DIMM: 1.55V

Any Ideas why I have to set the voltages by hand?


----------



## 2therock

Went back to BIOS Fq from F10x. Got a BSOD coming out of sleep on F10x.
Also my wireless keyboard's ability to enter BIOS on F10 & F10x decreased to 50/50 in working. F9q has been 99% so far.

Fq really fixed me up pretty well. Anything after that does no apply to me so far. All my clock settings stick and I don't have any of the issues others report on F9q.

F9q made me put my wired keyboard back in the closet. I had an external self powered eSATA box with 2 mirrored drives in it that when connected the machine would require a reset button push when a cold start would hang, and it hung every time a cold start was executed with the box connected. Not anymore.

So....... With the F10x tossing a BSOD when awaken from sleep (once) and making my Wireless keyboard a crap-shoot I revert.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Linx now ran 50 Minutes without freezes. Ten Minutes after starting Furmark BurnIn Bench (additionaly), I got a freeze.
> Got the following values set manually:
> [email protected] 4GHz w/o Turbo
> *VCore: 1.165V*
> CPUVTT: 1.15V (16GB RAM)
> CPUPLL: 1,800V
> IMC: 0,925
> DIMM: 1.55V
> Any Ideas why I have to set the voltages by hand?


Could we get you to fill out your system specs please?


----------



## Sin0822

don't use F10X are a normal BIOS it i just for testing that samsung memory issues were fixed.


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> Could we get you to fill out your system specs please?


Hey Rock,

here they are:

[email protected] 4GHz Voltages on manual (see below)
Hyper Threading disabled
Turbo Boost disabled
Board: GA Z77 UD5H, F9q (1. August 2012)
iGFX: disabled
GPU: EVGA GTX 680 SC Signature
RAM: ADATA AD3U1600W8G11-2, Premier 16GB KIT (2x8GB), PC3-12800
Using the onboard Sound (Driver 6.0.1.6662)
PSU: beQuiet! Dark Power Pro 10 650 Watt
SSD: Vertex 4 as Boot/OS Drive (SATA3 Port)
SSD: Vertex 2 as Data Drive (SATA3 POrt (I Know, Vertex 2 is SATA2))
HDD: 2 x WD 1TB Caviar Black Edition as RAID0 (SATA2 Ports)
DVD Burner: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NS90
USB 2.0: Cherry Klick Keyboard (MX3000)
USB 2.0: Logitech G5
No additional PCI Card

All Values manual:
[email protected] 4GHz w/o Turbo
VCore: 1.165V
CPUVTT: 1.15V (16GB RAM)
CPUPLL: 1,800V
IMC: 0,925
DIMM: 1.55V


----------



## Hellfighter

I've been having issues with overclocking my Samsung RAM, I increase the voltage, and loosen the timings, yet I get errors if I try to OC above 1600. At stock settings, everything's working ok, so I know that the RAM isn't bad. I'm still on the F8 BIOS, should I upgrade to one of the beta BIOS's, and if so, which one?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellfighter*
> 
> I've been having issues with overclocking my Samsung RAM, I increase the voltage, and loosen the timings, yet I get errors if I try to OC above 1600. At stock settings, everything's working ok, so I know that the RAM isn't bad. I'm still on the F8 BIOS, should I upgrade to one of the beta BIOS's, and if so, which one?


Yes F10x should really help with Samsung RAM overclocking.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1285652/official-z77x-up5-up4-d3h-th-owners-club-discussion-and-info-thread/110#post_17916504


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Linx now ran 50 Minutes without freezes. Ten Minutes after starting Furmark BurnIn Bench (additionaly), I got a freeze.
> Got the following values set manually:
> [email protected] 4GHz w/o Turbo
> *VCore: 1.165V*
> CPUVTT: 1.15V (16GB RAM)
> CPUPLL: 1,800V
> IMC: 0,925
> DIMM: 1.55V
> Any Ideas why I have to set the voltages by hand?


How're the temps to the point when it gets to freeze?


----------



## neoprimal

Is this normal? 

I decided that since my system is stable I would mess around to see exactly what's going on with the cpu and such.

Everything is auto in the bios except for EIST, C1E and Sleep states (C5/C6)

Turbo is enabled so it's supposed to go up to 3.8Ghz, right? I'm not OCing at all yet because I'm still on the stock fan. Temps are too high (45 at idle) to OC right now.

I just ran coretemp and then siw and I'm seeing that the CPU isn't budging from 3.6Ghz. I tried to stress test it with Intelburntest to push it up but
it's not going up to 3.8 and it's not going down to 3.4 at all.

Am I doing something wrong or is this normal?


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> Is this normal?
> I decided that since my system is stable I would mess around to see exactly what's going on with the cpu and such.
> Everything is auto in the bios except for EIST, C1E and Sleep states (C5/C6)
> Turbo is enabled so it's supposed to go up to 3.8Ghz, right? I'm not OCing at all yet because I'm still on the stock fan. Temps are too high (45 at idle) to OC right now.
> I just ran coretemp and then siw and I'm seeing that the CPU isn't budging from 3.6Ghz. I tried to stress test it with Intelburntest to push it up but
> it's not going up to 3.8 and it's not going down to 3.4 at all.
> Am I doing something wrong or is this normal?


That's actually not good at all for just running on stock frequencies. The reason why turbo-boost isn't working is because you've turned off EIST. This needs to be enabled for sure and also enable the other states which you've disabled for now. Keep everything the way it was (on default).

For now, you should turn the LLC at high and check for stability be decreasing the VCore voltage in small increments. For stock volts I'll say put a value no more than 1.050V and keep going lower if possible. Also what CPU cooler are you using?


----------



## sixor

for ud3h

new stuff
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html
bios f13
new audio drivers, via usb3, and intel stuff

working great, mouse lag in bios is gone, also no more usb/mouse problems at least for me


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yes F10x should really help with Samsung RAM overclocking.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1285652/official-z77x-up5-up4-d3h-th-owners-club-discussion-and-info-thread/110#post_17916504


I really do hope Gigabyte/you? Make a D3H bios


----------



## Hellfighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yes F10x should really help with Samsung RAM overclocking.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1285652/official-z77x-up5-up4-d3h-th-owners-club-discussion-and-info-thread/110#post_17916504


Holy speed Batman! Seriously, this BIOS is way more faster at startup and more stable. Got all 4 sticks running right now @ 1866 for stability check, then will try for 2133.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellfighter*
> 
> Holy speed Batman! Seriously, this BIOS is way more faster at startup and more stable. Got all 4 sticks running right now @ 1866 for stability check, then will try for 2133.


Yep, I used F11 on my D3H and 2133 wouldn't even boot, it does now with stock voltage! (1.5v) testing for stability now.
I'm using CAS10 though, which I'm obviously going to tweak later

EDIT: ...







it was running at 1600.. I forgot to change that. Still the same settings used,
On this topic I wonder if I can push 1600 with 8-8-8-20 or less with 16GB on this board


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> That's actually not good at all for just running on stock frequencies. The reason why turbo-boost isn't working is because you've turned off EIST. This needs to be enabled for sure and also enable the other states which you've disabled for now. Keep everything the way it was (on default).
> For now, you should turn the LLC at high and check for stability be decreasing the VCore voltage in small increments. For stock volts I'll say put a value no more than 1.050V and keep going lower if possible. Also what CPU cooler are you using?


I generally disable EIST and C1E because they freeze my SSD. At least, with them I freeze and without them I don't. I disable C1E because I don't care for the power savings really, I leave my PC up 24/7 generally. I'll try it and see if it helps.

Update: Did as you said, I haven't touched the VCORE or LLC settings yet, I'm not OCing and I prefer complete stability at Auto before I actually set things manually. If it is unstable I will try what you've recommended.

I'm using a stock fan. I wasn't sure if I'd be keeping the board or RMAing it (had some pretty bad issues initially, all are ironing out with each bios update). Since I've decided I will keep the board I'll grab a fan.

It hasn't frozen my SSD, a good sign. Generally by now my system would be becoming slowly unresponsive. I'll report back later on. Thanks for he help.


----------



## Sin0822

newer BIOSes should all have the samsung fix.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> newer BIOSes should all have the samsung fix.


Good to know, so the next lot of "Official" ones should have the Samsung fix?
I'm looking out for this


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> How're the temps to the point when it gets to freeze?


Around mid 50 to mid 60. Nothing spectacular.

I have decided to do an RMA on CPU AND Board (both bought from the same shop), since I can't crosscheck Board/CPU. I can't be normal if I have to provide the values manually. Something is wrong.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Good to know, so the next lot of "Official" ones should have the Samsung fix?
> I'm looking out for this


well there are two sides to the fix which are relayed to me the the awesome BIOS engineer who worked weekends to solve this issue. I thank him so much for this fix! I hope one day he comes on and sees how he has changed people's overclocking, because he is awesome.

Anyways so there was an issue with the generic Samsung and that is that they required a different start-up sequence to bypass some IC thermal thing, not the same as the temperature of the ICs themselves, but more of an internal thing. The OC wont damage the ICs, but anyways this start-up sequence will make it much easier to boot higher memory multipliers, especially for this sticks in particular, however it also might hurt the OC stability of some other high performance DIMMs. Thus this cannot be the default startup sequence like it is on the F10X, so basically he is working on getting the board to only use it with this kit and recognize this kit, perhaps down the road a profile for users to use to boot up higher for validations.

Now some memory likes this sequence some not, it totally depends on the individual kit, but all samsung should like this. I think BBSE boots higher but is less stable, PCS I think boots higher but is less stable, I think Hynix is not much change.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> well there are two sides to the fix which are relayed to me the the awesome BIOS engineer who worked weekends to solve this issue. I thank him so much for this fix! I hope one day he comes on and sees how he has changed people's overclocking, because he is awesome.
> Anyways so there was an issue with the generic Samsung and that is that they required a different start-up sequence to bypass some IC thermal thing, not the same as the temperature of the ICs themselves, but more of an internal thing. The OC wont damage the ICs, but anyways this start-up sequence will make it much easier to boot higher memory multipliers, especially for this sticks in particular, however it also might hurt the OC stability of some other high performance DIMMs. Thus this cannot be the default startup sequence like it is on the F10X, so basically he is working on getting the board to only use it with this kit and recognize this kit, perhaps down the road a profile for users to use to boot up higher for validations.
> Now some memory likes this sequence some not, it totally depends on the individual kit, but all samsung should like this. I think BBSE boots higher but is less stable, PCS I think boots higher but is less stable, I think Hynix is not much change.


I see, this will be nice when it comes. So I take it these won't be Gigabyte supported BIOS' seeing as you're writing them yourselves?


----------



## Sin0822

I don't write them, the head GIGABTYE BIOS engineer wrote this F10X and F6X(for UP5). All BIOSes have to be written by GIGABYte or else they wont flash. There is a special codes that has to be engaged, imagine if anyone could just make any BIOS lol.

No they will be official BIOSes, i think from what i am hearing the new final release for the UD3H has the fix.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Does anyone else have trouble getting into the BIOS from time to time. Sometimes when I hit Del, or F12 or whatever the system appears to just hang, sometimes get A2 on the debug LED after i've hit Del etc. If I don't try to get into BIOS it'll happily boot into Windows

Running F8 BIOS


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Does anyone else have trouble getting into the BIOS from time to time. Sometimes when I hit Del, or F12 or whatever the system appears to just hang, sometimes get A2 on the debug LED after i've hit Del etc. If I don't try to get into BIOS it'll happily boot into Windows
> Running F8 BIOS


Do you suppose it's your keyboard not responding? But no, I've never had that problem. I assume you're running UD5H? Might want to update your rig specs.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I don't write them, the head GIGABTYE BIOS engineer wrote this F10X and F6X(for UP5). All BIOSes have to be written by GIGABYte or else they wont flash. There is a special codes that has to be engaged, imagine if anyone could just make any BIOS lol.
> No they will be official BIOSes, i think from what i am hearing the new final release for the UD3H has the fix.


Lol thought so, I was just clearing that up in my mind








U don't have a UD3H..







I've seen no updates since F9 on the Gigabyte site so far, and the latest beta is F11 or something which I've got and doesn't fix the sammy problem..


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Do you suppose it's your keyboard not responding? But no, I've never had that problem. I assume you're running UD5H? Might want to update your rig specs.


Cheers for the response, I don't know about the keyboard not responding, if I hit Del or F12 or F8 is it? it just stays on the Full Logo Boot Screen, if I don't press anything it boots straight to Win7, it only does it after I've tried to enter BIOS, even stranger is that it doesn't do that all the time, I've been in BIOS plenty of times, I just don't get why it sometimes does this.

I'll update my specs, forgot to do that, and yes I'm running the UD5H with 3570K and Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB 1866Mhz, already running my RAM at its native speed, set that in BIOS


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Around mid 50 to mid 60. Nothing spectacular.
> I have decided to do an RMA on CPU AND Board (both bought from the same shop), since I can't crosscheck Board/CPU. I can't be normal if I have to provide the values manually. Something is wrong.


Not sure about the CPU, but that was a good move for the mobo.. Although, it would have been better if you could have gotten it replaced with a different one e.g. Maximus V gene. Anyways, do keep us updated.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Cheers for the response, I don't know about the keyboard not responding, if I hit Del or F12 or F8 is it? it just stays on the Full Logo Boot Screen, if I don't press anything it boots straight to Win7, it only does it after I've tried to enter BIOS, even stranger is that it doesn't do that all the time, I've been in BIOS plenty of times, I just don't get why it sometimes does this.
> I'll update my specs, forgot to do that, and yes I'm running the UD5H with 3570K and Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB 1866Mhz, already running my RAM at its native speed, set that in BIOS


Ok, back in BIOS. I moved the Keyboard from a USB3.0 Port to a USB2.0 Port and it worked no problem.


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Not sure about the CPU, but that was a good move for the mobo.. Although, it would have been better if you could have gotten it replaced with a different one e.g. Maximus V gene. Anyways, do keep us updated.


Hey,

it will take a while. With a heavy heart I have to disassemble my new machine









Say Goodbye.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey,
> it will take a while. With a heavy heart I have to disassemble my new machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say Goodbye.


I bet man, disassembling a WC setup would take twice the effort than just a simple air cooler. Good luck man.


----------



## nascarmon

Sadly, I've decided to RMA my UD5H & go for an Asus . At first it seemed to be working great, but then I started experiencing quirky issues that I've seen others experiencing here & elsewhere. For example, buggy USB 3.0 (and 2.0) ports. I too experienced a random but sudden dropping of my mouse & keyboard (but at least no lockups) which forced me to plug them into 2.0 ports to get them back. So I tried all BIOSs after F7 and discovered that if I have a certain device plugged into any of the USB ports (a Sony PS2 game pad with USB adapter, which I use CONSTANTLY, so leaving it disconnected is not an option) I can no longer boot into BIOS. Also, waking from sleep mode causes reboots with BIOSs after F7. Enough is enough. The board was great when it worked, but these little quirks are just too annoying. Someone here said it had a buggy BIOS. That's almost an understatement.

So, lads, unless someone can talk me out of it, I'm going back to Asus and will getting an P8Z77-V. Or possibly an MSI Z77A-GD65. I'll miss that great Realtek ALC898 sound codec though if I go for the Asus.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Around mid 50 to mid 60. Nothing spectacular.
> I have decided to do an RMA on CPU AND Board (both bought from the same shop), since I can't crosscheck Board/CPU. I can't be normal if I have to provide the values manually. Something is wrong.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey,
> it will take a while. With a heavy heart I have to disassemble my new machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say Goodbye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I guess you have to do what you think is best for you, but taking a look at your posts I am not sure I completely understand your issue and not sure that you have done some basic troubleshooting to justify rma'ing both board and cpu. My understanding is that you were experiencing freezes at stock settings when stressing system. You ran memtest on you memory and no errors, but increased the memory voltage anyway? Then you updated your bios and at stock settings ran two stress test programs simultaneously (?) and the system froze.

Seems like you had also made some other manual settings changes (i.e., turbo enabled/disabled, manually setting vcore, hyperthreading enabled/diabled, etc.).

Again, I think you should do what you think is right for you, but I am not convinced that if you would have just updated the bios to the latest official version (F8) and loaded optimized settings and ran stress test (i.e., one of them; not two at same time) and see how things looked that maybe a better solution could have been suggested. Good luck with whatever you wind up with.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey,
> it will take a while. With a heavy heart I have to disassemble my new machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say Goodbye.


That's not a PC, it's a scene from the movie Alien !


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I guess you have to do what you think is best for you, but taking a look at your posts I am not sure I completely understand your issue and not sure that you have done some basic troubleshooting to justify rma'ing both board and cpu. My understanding is that you were experiencing freezes at stock settings when stressing system. You ran memtest on you memory and no errors, but increased the memory voltage anyway? Then you updated your bios and at stock settings ran two stress test programs simultaneously (?) and the system froze.
> Seems like you had also made some other manual settings changes (i.e., turbo enabled/disabled, manually setting vcore, hyperthreading enabled/diabled, etc.).
> Again, I think you should do what you think is right for you, but I am not convinced that if you would have just updated the bios to the latest official version (F8) and loaded optimized settings and ran stress test (i.e., one of them; not two at same time) and see how things looked that maybe a better solution could have been suggested. Good luck with whatever you wind up with.


Hey,

I admit, it seems a bit chaotically. A lot of what I did and tested has been posted to different forums.

0) Read some articles, explained to GF why I NEEDEd an new gaming rig 
1) Machine Assembly (without GPU -> Waterblock was still in transit)
2) Bios at F4
3) Flashed to F8 (because of overclock.net and tweaktown forums)
4) Loaded Optimized Defaults, left everything CPU and RAM related on Auto, just changed convenience settings
5) Windows Installed
6) Drivers Installeds
7) Imaging
8) Used GFX for testing (Played some Games) -> Freezes
9) Suspected iGFX Fault
10) UUsed Furmark -> Slow as molasses -> Test ok
11) Waterblock arrived for real GPU -> Assembled
12) Stresstested for GPU -> Furmark fine
13) Stresstested for CPU: Linx/Linpack -> Hard Freeze -> ***?
14) Checked BIOS Settings related to CPU -> Auto
15) Memtestx86+ -> OK
16) *Lots of CPU Testing (Stock Settings, Voltage Settings, RAM Voltages to 1.55 just because)*
17) Lots of Hard Freezes when testing CPU, Always temp monitoring -> temps mostly between 45 and 65 °C
18) Playing some games, posting in forums and smoking some pot -> everythings fine, people are friendly
19) Tryed other BIOSes (F10, F10x, F9q (most stable for me))
20) Tested Linx and Furmark *on my old machine* (Two Stresstests simultaneously, CPU and GPU -> no Problem)
21) Used GPU and CPU Benches *on new machine* -> sometimes ok, sometimes Freezes
22) Talked to online shop where hardware was bought -> told me to send Board and CPU for testing (since I cant crosscheck with different Board and different CPU) -> RMA: Return Materials Authorization
23) Wrote lengthy post
24) Having to explain now to my GF why new gaming rig steals all my time and money 

Again: RAM seems ok (Memtest fine). The GPU got its Air Cooler back and was installed in my old machine -> no Problems. Gaming is great! Looking forward to finally use my new watercooled rig!

So, the GPU and RAM is fine. leaves me with CPU or Board Problems. Maybe PSU?

I really like my Gigabyte Board. I wont exchange it for an ASUS. I hope, that my Board or CPU is just defective and I get a new one.

@fasty: You are right. This photo looks a bit like some organic life form. Its looks more industrial in real life. Black and white was a must, because it raised the acceptance level of my GF (she uses mostly Apple devices).

Cheers








Don


----------



## irfy

******* FREEZING ISSUES *********
All those having freezing issues PLS try THIS :

Have you got Intel RST drivers installed ???? if yes Uninstall them
Try to install the Windows 7 basic AHCI drivers
Device manager IDE/ATAPI controller -> update driver -> Have disk --> choose the Standard AHCI 1.0 serial ATA controller should be driver version 6.1.7601.17514

Reboot tell me if ur windows loads faster see if the freezing persists.

Just got hold of a freinds machine Asus P8Z77-V premium i couldnt believe how slow bootup was. Wierd issues some bios options missing. Upon checking he had VGA installed in wrong slot (SLi) & DVDRW in wrong sata port. After correcting this everything went smoothe. Just goes to show sometimes we all make mistakes.

I experienced freeze issues today on UD5 experimenting with Intel RST drivers. I think i know what you guys mean. I uninstalled them & everything working as it shud be.

Pls try this & let me know i may be wrong but its worth a try.


----------



## Mr Frosty

What's a good set of 8Gb RAM for the UD5H?

My current RAM crapped out and in all honesty wasn't the best RAM for the board so I want some stuff that will work with the board and not fight it, prefer it blue as well so it matches the heat sinks...


----------



## irfy

These look good but no idea if they would work. 8GB modules fairly new prob best to stick with 4GB. If you can buy em from somewhere that accepts returns no hassle then why not.
Also heard Kingston work well with Gigabyte. Gskill are good. The Samsung ULV also great if you only run 2 x 4GB i can hit 2133 no probs with 2 sticks and 1866 with 4 sticks (could be cos im runnin Sandybridge)

16GB Mushkin Enhanced Ridgeback LV #997073 (2x8GB) 1866 (PC3-14900) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM CAS 11-11-11-27 1.35V


----------



## neoprimal

My UD3H seems to be more stable with bios F13 how I'm set up currently. I haven't tried messing with the USB 3 ports again because I found a good setup that I'll remember to use (keyboard on 1 VIA USB 3, USB 3 HD on 2 other VIA USB 3 ports, all USB 2 stuff on USB 2 ports which are attached to the headers). I would have to switch the KB to Intel USB 3 whenever installing an OS but like this I have guaranteed access to BIOS whereas with Intel ports it's 20/80 at best AND I can just plug a flash drive into my keyboard if I need it to be accessed by the BIOS.

Ali, with EIST, C1E and Sleep states enabled, I haven't gotten a freeze or stop error over night or all of today so far. This has never, ever been the case for me. With EIST and C1E or either of the settings enabled I would 100% get a random freeze at some point on my machine.

Once again, I'm glad I commit to the board and kept it vs. trading it for something else. Boot is slightly quicker, the BIOS Logo screen doesn't stay up for as long as F12L or the other BIOSes I've tried. I don't know what the details are to F13 changes but it's not placebo, whatever changes were made in this BIOS have fixed certain issues on this board for sure.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> What's a good set of 8Gb RAM for the UD5H?
> My current RAM crapped out and in all honesty wasn't the best RAM for the board so I want some stuff that will work with the board and not fight it, prefer it blue as well so it matches the heat sinks...


Depends on what processor you're using.


----------



## coolhandluke41

just for lulz

GA-7VA-C - 2002



http://gigabytedaily.blogspot.com/


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> just for lulz
> GA-7VA-C - 2002
> 
> http://gigabytedaily.blogspot.com/


So cool


----------



## Blindeye_03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> just for lulz
> GA-7VA-C - 2002
> 
> http://gigabytedaily.blogspot.com/


With that youll know where you left your spare video cards, ram, etc... lol


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Frosty*
> 
> What's a good set of 8Gb RAM for the UD5H?
> My current RAM crapped out and in all honesty wasn't the best RAM for the board so I want some stuff that will work with the board and not fight it, prefer it blue as well so it matches the heat sinks...


Both my UD5H rigs running 3770K, but: G Skill Trident 2400 ram on one (heat spreaders removable) , Kingston HyperX 1600 (with the very tall heat spreaders) KHX1600C9D3T1K2/8GX on the other.
Both are good, both are 1.65v, both Profile 1 recognized in BIOS, neither worth a sh** for overclocking, though, if that matters.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> My UD3H seems to be more stable with bios F13 how I'm set up currently. I haven't tried messing with the USB 3 ports again because I found a good setup that I'll remember to use (keyboard on 1 VIA USB 3, USB 3 HD on 2 other VIA USB 3 ports, all USB 2 stuff on USB 2 ports which are attached to the headers). I would have to switch the KB to Intel USB 3 whenever installing an OS but like this I have guaranteed access to BIOS whereas with Intel ports it's 20/80 at best AND I can just plug a flash drive into my keyboard if I need it to be accessed by the BIOS.
> Ali, with EIST, C1E and Sleep states enabled, I haven't gotten a freeze or stop error over night or all of today so far. This has never, ever been the case for me. With EIST and C1E or either of the settings enabled I would 100% get a random freeze at some point on my machine.
> Once again, I'm glad I commit to the board and kept it vs. trading it for something else. Boot is slightly quicker, the BIOS Logo screen doesn't stay up for as long as F12L or the other BIOSes I've tried. I don't know what the details are to F13 changes but it's not placebo, whatever changes were made in this BIOS have fixed certain issues on this board for sure.


yep, not placebo

boot is faster, mouse in bios works faster, also i have mouse on windows installer, no more usb problems for me, working great so far.............finally


----------



## AP514

HI all got a EASYTUNE 6 Question..

Board GA-Z77X-D3H

Im not sure if im in correct place for this....feel free to move.

Easytune6 is supposed to regulate case fan speed based off of CPU temp.
I can not get the EasyTune6 to control my 2&3 fan speeds. Other than Fan #1 my fans running off of the board connectors #2/3 run a max RPM.

Anyone have any info on where I can find an aswer to this ? or have an answer to why the 2/3 fans are not regulating

INFO
All my Fans are 3 pin connectors
Fans are set to auto/nornal in bios

Thanks in advace
AP514


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AP514*
> 
> HI all got a EASYTUNE 6 Question..
> Board GA-Z77X-D3H
> Im not sure if im in correct place for this....feel free to move.
> Easytune6 is supposed to regulate case fan speed based off of CPU temp.
> I can not get the EasyTune6 to control my 2&3 fan speeds. Other than Fan #1 my fans running off of the board connectors #2/3 run a max RPM.
> Anyone have any info on where I can find an aswer to this ? or have an answer to why the 2/3 fans are not regulating
> INFO
> All my Fans are 3 pin connectors
> Fans are set to auto/nornal in bios
> Thanks in advace
> AP514


I have the same problem.. We just have to sit and wait for a newer BIOS/Newer ET6 release unfortunatly


----------



## r3pshow

hey guyz !

just got my Z77X-UD3 !

I'm a noob so please bear with me here !

Q1: I need to know how to update the bios ? and a best bios to choose ?
Q2: How to overclock my 3570k on the UD3 ?

I'd really Appreciate your help ! thanks in advanced !

EDIT: My other specs are :

GPU: GB GTX 670
PSU: Corsiar AX850watt
CPU Cooler: H100
SSD: OCZ vertex 4 128Gb (for OS)
HDD: WD black 1T
RAM: Kingston hyperX16Gb @1600MHz


----------



## mandrix

First you should probably read the manual. But:
Use Qflash to update the bios. You will need a FAT32 formatted flash drive with the bios you want to load copied to the drive. You can either hit "end" while booting or "delete" and go into the bios and select Qflash from there. If you don't already know, the bios usually defaults to the graphical version, you can hit F1 once it loads if you'd rather switch over to the more conventional bios.
Maybe someone can link you to a tutorial on overclocking, or just search.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r3pshow*
> 
> hey guyz !
> just got my Z77X-UD3 !
> I'm a noob so please bear with me here !
> Q1: I need to know how to update the bios ? and a best bios to choose ?
> Q2: How to overclock my 3570k on the UD3 ?
> I'd really Appreciate your help ! thanks in advanced !
> EDIT: My other specs are :
> GPU: GB GTX 670
> PSU: Corsiar AX850watt
> CPU Cooler: H100
> SSD: OCZ vertex 4 128Gb (for OS)
> HDD: WD black 1T
> RAM: Kingston hyperX16Gb @1600MHz


http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end/0_20

bios update, you can:

download bios from tweaktown on page1, or the latest on gigabyte website, or @bios app

upddate bye:
1) windows using @bios app
2)from boot, there is one key to enter bios update with a usb flash with the bios
3)from bios there is a key to update too, using usb


----------



## cab2

I finally put the UD5H inside a case (Lian LI A05N) and the *PCH is overheating at idle*. System fans run at minimum RPM (750) then a few minutes later PCH goes over 50C and both SYS fans go max 1300rpm. It needs a fan over the z77, holding a fan over it for a few seconds makes temp drop below 50 and fans slow down. Outside the case PCH & mobo temps were in the 30s. I don't like this. The case is still open, no side or top panels installed yet. Any ides?


----------



## Chodi

USB Problem Solved

For the benefil of anyone who followed my usb problems earlier in this thread and for those who may also be experiencing usb dopouts or freezes, I solved my problem. I waited to make absolutely certain that the problem was solved before posting this. Just a quick recap; I have a Z77X D3H. I expect my problem and the solution may apply to any of the Gigabyte z77 boards. I was experiencing dropouts and even freezes of my mouse and keyboard, not to mention anything else plugged into the rear usb ports. It would sometimes freeze my mouse, keyboard or both leaving me to look at the screen without any solution. Occasionally the dropout would only last a second or even a few seconds then it would come back online. I would unplug and re-plug devices when this happened and it still would not recognize the device.

Now for the solution. I have done extensive trouble shooting listed in earlier posts. All the logical things or so I thought. I paired things down to only my mouse and keyboard and still no luck. Finally, just before I was ready to toss the motherboard for a replacement I bought a new mouse as the right button on my Logitech MX518 was getting sticky. Changing the mouse solved all my problems. Since my keyboard and other devices were also acting up I logically blamed this all on the rear usb ports. As it turns out, if one device is malfunctioning in any of the rear usb ports it effects them all. I cannot speak to the circuit design but it would seem as if they are all on the same hub or in some way connected electronically. I had tried every conceivable combination of ports while using the problem mouse without ever realizing that a defective mouse could cause a keyboard or other device to freeze. Now I know that all those ports are linked in some way and a malfunction in any usb device can effect anything plugged into the rear ports.

Hope this helps someone else with strange usb problems.


----------



## sixor

i had tons of usb problems too on ud3h, with latest drivers, latest bios, good config in bios, changing ports, etc, makes no sense

i had those 1sec freezes too on the mouse (ikari steelseries), sometimes devices auto disconnected or behaved weird

i don´t know but latest usb via, intel drivers, + new bios seems to have fixed the problem, maybe it was a problem with the usb ports hardware, who knows, but it was an annoying as hell


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> See my post on the previous page or check the manual. *USB2* has been around for years, it should work as expected and all ports should be bootable.
> Only *USB3* is at issue here. As per manual, F_USB30_1 is the only Intel usb3 on the board. All other internal *and* external usb3 are VIA. I've booted a flash drive off the usb3 in the back (VIA) but I haven't yet tried F_USB30_2 and F_USB30_3 at the bottom of the mobo. It would be strange if these are not bootable whereas the ones in the back are.


I finally connected the VIA mobo headers F_USB30_2 and F_USB30_3 on my UD5H and with default BIOS settings *they are not bootable!* But the ones in the back (also VIA) are bootable, that's bizzare. What do we need to change in BIOS to make them bootable? There are settings about "xHCI mode" but I've no idea what the manual is trying to say.


----------



## ChrisB17

Ok just ran into a random issue. Sometimes when windows boots it hangs at the desktop. It only happens like 1 out of every 10 boots. But still annoying. Any ideas?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I finally put the UD5H inside a case (Lian LI A05N) and the *PCH is overheating at idle*. System fans run at minimum RPM (750) then a few minutes later PCH goes over 50C and both SYS fans go max 1300rpm. It needs a fan over the z77, holding a fan over it for a few seconds makes temp drop below 50 and fans slow down. Outside the case PCH & mobo temps were in the 30s. I don't like this. The case is still open, no side or top panels installed yet. Any ides?


I think you answered your question. Temps are fine with board outside case; temps bad with board inside case. You need more airflow (more or new fans) or a new case. It's a simple airflow issue with the case and fans.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I think you answered your question. Temps are fine with board outside case; temps bad with board inside case. You need more airflow (more or new fans) or a new case. It's a simple airflow issue with the case and fans.


I had this same issue, added two 140mm side intake fans, problem solved.



Just getting started on this site, not much system building or OC experience since the Core 2 days. Here's a shot of my 3570k UD5H build.


----------



## coolhandluke41

hey Sin ..any chance to get this CPU-Z ?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I finally put the UD5H inside a case (Lian LI A05N) and the *PCH is overheating at idle*. System fans run at minimum RPM (750) then a few minutes later PCH goes over 50C and both SYS fans go max 1300rpm. It needs a fan over the z77, holding a fan over it for a few seconds makes temp drop below 50 and fans slow down. Outside the case PCH & mobo temps were in the 30s. I don't like this. The case is still open, no side or top panels installed yet. Any ides?


What do you call overheating? It's normal for it run up in the 50's. No big deal and nothing is about to burn up. Mine is sitting at 56 right now.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> What do you call overheating? It's normal for it run up in the 50's. No big deal and nothing is about to burn up. Mine is sitting at 56 right now.


Even with two 140mm intake fans blowing on it my PCH temp in the BIOS is in the 60's.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> What do you call overheating? It's normal for it run up in the 50's. No big deal and nothing is about to burn up. Mine is sitting at 56 right now.


The mobo kicks all the system fans to max RPM when mobo temp goes over 50C, it's noisy, it sounds like a vacuum cleaner.


----------



## DaClownie

Yea, the chipset does get rather warm on these boards. Mine is around 59C while folding 24/7... doesn't make me too comfortable as my old EP45-UD3P chipset never cleared 40C ever. lol


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea, the chipset does get rather warm on these boards. Mine is around 59C while folding 24/7... doesn't make me too comfortable as my old EP45-UD3P chipset never cleared 40C ever. lol


My EP45 rose to the same as the core value, it was about 2-3c offset. That was using Speccy though.
This chipset is heaps cooler!


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Hey,
> I admit, it seems a bit chaotically. A lot of what I did and tested has been posted to different forums.
> 0) Read some articles, explained to GF why I NEEDEd an new gaming rig
> 1) Machine Assembly (without GPU -> Waterblock was still in transit)
> 2) Bios at F4
> 3) Flashed to F8 (because of overclock.net and tweaktown forums)
> 4) Loaded Optimized Defaults, left everything CPU and RAM related on Auto, just changed convenience settings
> 5) Windows Installed
> 6) Drivers Installeds
> 7) Imaging
> 8) Used GFX for testing (Played some Games) -> Freezes
> 9) Suspected iGFX Fault
> 10) UUsed Furmark -> Slow as molasses -> Test ok
> 11) Waterblock arrived for real GPU -> Assembled
> 12) Stresstested for GPU -> Furmark fine
> 13) Stresstested for CPU: Linx/Linpack -> Hard Freeze -> ***?
> 14) Checked BIOS Settings related to CPU -> Auto
> 15) Memtestx86+ -> OK
> 16) *Lots of CPU Testing (Stock Settings, Voltage Settings, RAM Voltages to 1.55 just because)*
> 17) Lots of Hard Freezes when testing CPU, Always temp monitoring -> temps mostly between 45 and 65 °C
> 18) Playing some games, posting in forums and smoking some pot -> everythings fine, people are friendly
> 19) Tryed other BIOSes (F10, F10x, F9q (most stable for me))
> 20) Tested Linx and Furmark *on my old machine* (Two Stresstests simultaneously, CPU and GPU -> no Problem)
> 21) Used GPU and CPU Benches *on new machine* -> sometimes ok, sometimes Freezes
> 22) Talked to online shop where hardware was bought -> told me to send Board and CPU for testing (since I cant crosscheck with different Board and different CPU) -> RMA: Return Materials Authorization
> 23) Wrote lengthy post
> 24) Having to explain now to my GF why new gaming rig steals all my time and money
> Again: RAM seems ok (Memtest fine). The GPU got its Air Cooler back and was installed in my old machine -> no Problems. Gaming is great! Looking forward to finally use my new watercooled rig!
> So, the GPU and RAM is fine. leaves me with CPU or Board Problems. Maybe PSU?
> I really like my Gigabyte Board. I wont exchange it for an ASUS. I hope, that my Board or CPU is just defective and I get a new one.
> @fasty: You are right. This photo looks a bit like some organic life form. Its looks more industrial in real life. Black and white was a must, because it raised the acceptance level of my GF (she uses mostly Apple devices).
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don


OK, its was the PSU .After doing a Benchtable Setup and testing a different PSU I checked the 24 Pin Connector and found a loose pin.

Everythings running fine now. OC to 4GHz with 1.070 Volt atm.

Now to assemble that WC setup again. .... Sigh.


----------



## FoamyV

Hey guys, got another question for you, how long does it usually take for the beta bioses to become official? I wouldn't want to void my warranty but the f13 fixes look really attractive. Thanks and have a nice weekend.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Even with two 140mm intake fans blowing on it my PCH temp in the BIOS is in the 60's.


That seems strange given the size of the case. One of my UD5H boards is in a HAF 922 and I've never seen PCH temps in the 60's. You are that hot at normal use? What ambient temp?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> The mobo kicks all the system fans to max RPM when mobo temp goes over 50C, it's noisy, it sounds like a vacuum cleaner.


That doesn't sound right to me. Like I say these chipsets run hotter in general, but when you say "mobo temp" you are referring specifically to the PCH temp? Neither of my UD5H boards ever did that. I mean both rigs are water cooled now but even with air cooling I never had that problem.
You don't have your rig specs filled out so I have no idea what all you are running. Still, doesn't seem right.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hey guys, got another question for you, how long does it usually take for the beta bioses to become official? I wouldn't want to void my warranty but the f13 fixes look really attractive. Thanks and have a nice weekend.


lol, just update from tweaktown, you are the only one waiting for the same file to appear on gigabyte website

also, did you knew ud3h has 2 bios?


----------



## AP514

What about the GA-Z77X-D3H ?? whats the latest Beta Bios for that ?? and where can I find it ??
Im running F9 ATM

On another Note my Chipset runs about 50 c..it seems that is the norm for these chips/boards.....it was running about 60 c
but turned on my side fan..... now it is about 50 c Im wondering what it will be when I start to O/C ??

AP514


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> ...
> That doesn't sound right to me. Like I say these chipsets run hotter in general, but when you say "mobo temp" you are referring specifically to the PCH temp? Neither of my UD5H boards ever did that. I mean both rigs are water cooled now but even with air cooling I never had that problem.
> You don't have your rig specs filled out so I have no idea what all you are running. Still, doesn't seem right.


Thank you. It's the 2 temps shown in the BIOS, or TMPIN0/1 in CPUID Hardware Monitor, they're with 1-2 degrees of each other on my UD5H. I have fans set to "silent" in BIOS so they'd be running at minimum (around 700rpm) and after a few minutes one or both temps go over 50C and ALL connected SYS fans kick to max (~1300), that's very noisy and it's strange that they don't ramp up gradually as usual.

I have a Noctua NH-L12, so I connected the 2nd smaller/inner fan, it's not need for the CPU but it blows enough air on the mobo and PCH to keep them under 50. I can't add more fans, the Lian A05N already has 2, front/back, and I've run more power hungry stuff in that case before without problems. The mobo is mounted upside-down in the A05, that probably contributes as heat form CPU, memory and VRMs rises. You can see that Gigabyte made the z77 heasink as huge as possible in all directions to combat overheating.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I finally connected the VIA mobo headers F_USB30_2 and F_USB30_3 on my UD5H and with default BIOS settings *they are not bootable!* But the ones in the back (also VIA) are bootable, that's bizzare. What do we need to change in BIOS to make them bootable? There are settings about "xHCI mode" but I've no idea what the manual is trying to say.


Ha, F_USB30_2 and F_USB30_3 are not bootable with BIOS *F8* but work with *F10a*. What were the changes in F10a??? Do we really know what the changes are in any of these beta BIOS?????


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AP514*
> 
> What about the GA-Z77X-D3H ?? whats the latest Beta Bios for that ?? and where can I find it ??
> Im running F9 ATM
> On another Note my Chipset runs about 50 c..it seems that is the norm for these chips/boards.....it was running about 60 c
> but turned on my side fan..... now it is about 50 c Im wondering what it will be when I start to O/C ??
> AP514


I've got that board, safe to say that the latest BIOS is F11. Running it myself, it's actually more stable than F9 but it has no extra features from what I've seen.
Find it here Gigabyte Beta BIOS, i'm not saying nothing can go wrong though so flash at your own risk


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> I've got that board, safe to say that the latest BIOS is F11. Running it myself, it's actually more stable than F9 but it has no extra features from what I've seen.
> Find it here Gigabyte Beta BIOS, i'm not saying nothing can go wrong though so flash at your own risk


I'm still running F7, going stick with my "if it ain't broke" mentality. Until they add new features I see no compelling reason to flash again.


----------



## starships

Hi guys, I'm considering the UD5H for my new build but I've read a few things that I want to be sure about.

First off, apparently the TRIM function for SSD drives isn't supported by the controllers on this board, is this correct? I've yet to even use an SSD, is the speed difference with TRIM actually noticeable?

I've read that the system 4 fan header is 100% on all the time on the UD3H, does it also apply to the UD5H? If it does, are the rest of the fan headers working PWM?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starships*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm considering the UD5H for my new build but I've read a few things that I want to be sure about.
> First off, apparently the TRIM function for SSD drives isn't supported by the controllers on this board, is this correct? I've yet to even use an SSD, is the speed difference with TRIM actually noticeable?
> I've read that the system 4 fan header is 100% on all the time on the UD3H, does it also apply to the UD5H? If it does, are the rest of the fan headers working PWM?


This board supports TRIM as any other Intel chipset based board. However, there is no TRIM support on Marvell ports IIRC.

Fan headers behave the same way as on UD3H, unfortunately. If you care about proper fan control, get a fan controller...


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starships*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm considering the UD5H for my new build but I've read a few things that I want to be sure about.
> First off, apparently the TRIM function for SSD drives isn't supported by the controllers on this board, is this correct? I've yet to even use an SSD, is the speed difference with TRIM actually noticeable?
> I've read that the system 4 fan header is 100% on all the time on the UD3H, does it also apply to the UD5H? If it does, are the rest of the fan headers working PWM?


How to Verify TRIM is Enabled
In the start menu search box, type" cmd";
Right click the cmd program and select Run as Adminstrator; and
In the command line type "fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify".
if DisableDeleteNotify = 0 TRIM is Enabled.
If DisableDeleteNotify = 1 TRIM is Disabled.


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nascarmon*
> 
> Sadly, I've decided to RMA my UD5H & go for an Asus . At first it seemed to be working great, but then I started experiencing quirky issues that I've seen others experiencing here & elsewhere. For example, buggy USB 3.0 (and 2.0) ports. I too experienced a random but sudden dropping of my mouse & keyboard (but at least no lockups) which forced me to plug them into 2.0 ports to get them back. So I tried all BIOSs after F7 and discovered that if I have a certain device plugged into any of the USB ports (a Sony PS2 game pad with USB adapter, which I use CONSTANTLY, so leaving it disconnected is not an option) I can no longer boot into BIOS. Also, waking from sleep mode causes reboots with BIOSs after F7. Enough is enough. The board was great when it worked, but these little quirks are just too annoying. Someone here said it had a buggy BIOS. That's almost an understatement.
> So, lads, unless someone can talk me out of it, I'm going back to Asus and will getting an P8Z77-V. Or possibly an MSI Z77A-GD65. I'll miss that great Realtek ALC898 sound codec though if I go for the Asus.


I had all sorts of simular issues with an eSATA box not letting me cold boot, USB ports reloading - as in all of a sudden they would disconnect and then I get an auto play window like I just plugged it in, and some other naggers like NO wireless keyboard entering BIOS..

My formula for success was RMA'ing the board to Gigabyte with a full written report.

I got the board back (It Had F8 on #1 BIOS and F7 on #2) and before connecting anything but the PSU & DVD drive, using the VGA port I booted to Memtest to stroke my RAM = passed.
I then put my 1TB RAID1 HDD's in and did a command prompt to write two passes of Zeros to them. It took 6 hours. = Rules out a bad OS install.
I then put my GPU in and with no other devices I did a clean Win7 Pro x64 install.

To shorten my story I am a happy camper. I have ZERO % of the issues it was sent out with. With F9q my wireless keyboard inters BIOS 99% of the time with the other 1% being caused by my finger timing.

I am happy because I like the dual NIC, the Retro PCI slot and the available ePCI slots. When the board was @ Gigabyte I looked around like a disgruntled consumer and nothing had the layout and spec in a combo like the UD5H for me.

I am now running a VERY stable 4.5 clock. Good Luck


----------



## starships

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> This board supports TRIM as any other Intel chipset based board. However, there is no TRIM support on Marvell ports IIRC.
> Fan headers behave the same way as on UD3H, unfortunately. If you care about proper fan control, get a fan controller...


The Marvell controller is what I meant to ask about, sorry about the confusion. Does that mean the 3 other fan headers can do automatic control through PWM/voltage? I plan to buy a real fan controller later on but I wanted to experiment with the boards automatic control in between that time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> How to Verify TRIM is Enabled
> In the start menu search box, type" cmd";
> Right click the cmd program and select Run as Adminstrator; and
> In the command line type "fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify".
> if DisableDeleteNotify = 0 TRIM is Enabled.
> If DisableDeleteNotify = 1 TRIM is Disabled.


Thanks, good to know. Always like learning new cmd commands


----------



## DeXel

I don't recommend even using Marvell ports unless you already filled the remaining Intel 6Gbps and 3Gbps ports.

Fan control on these boards is pretty much bad. You can control fans on CPU and Sys_FAN 1 headers through voltage and PWM. Sys_FAN 2 and 3 support PWM only according to manual.
I never tested SYS_FAN 2 and 3 personally since everytime I decide to get my Intel heatsink out (the only PWM fan that I have is on it), I end up not doing it, so I can't confirm if PWM control even works on these headers.
SYS_FAN 4 as you already know is always 100%.

Hope this helps


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starships*
> 
> The Marvell controller is what I meant to ask about, sorry about the confusion. Does that mean the 3 other fan headers can do automatic control through PWM/voltage? I plan to buy a real fan controller later on but I wanted to experiment with the boards automatic control in between that time.
> Thanks, good to know. Always like learning new cmd commands


I am very happy with my Scythe Kaze Master Pro 5.25 Fan Controller. 6 controllers and temp probes. I have nothing in my board fan ports.


----------



## starships

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I don't recommend even using Marvell ports unless you already filled the remaining Intel 6Gbps and 3Gbps ports.
> Fan control on these boards is pretty much bad. You can control fans on CPU and Sys_FAN 1 headers through voltage and PWM. Sys_FAN 2 and 3 support PWM only according to manual.
> I never tested SYS_FAN 2 and 3 personally since everytime I decide to get my Intel heatsink out (the only PWM fan that I have is on it), I end up not doing it, so I can't confirm if PWM control even works on these headers.
> SYS_FAN 4 as you already know is always 100%.
> Hope this helps


Thanks, pretty much the details I was looking for. I guess I'll just use the fan controller on the 500r (which will be the case that I'm getting) with the stock fans and when I can afford to replace the stock fans I'll buy a proper controller alongside the replacement fans.

Hoping I don't run into the bugs from above.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I'm still running F7, going stick with my "if it ain't broke" mentality. Until they add new features I see no compelling reason to flash again.


Yeah, I know how you feel. Well the 3D part of the BIOS was broken to me and would cause lockups, it's good now though!


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AP514*
> 
> HI all got a EASYTUNE 6 Question..
> Board GA-Z77X-D3H
> Im not sure if im in correct place for this....feel free to move.
> Easytune6 is supposed to regulate case fan speed based off of CPU temp.
> I can not get the EasyTune6 to control my 2&3 fan speeds. Other than Fan #1 my fans running off of the board connectors #2/3 run a max RPM.
> Anyone have any info on where I can find an aswer to this ? or have an answer to why the 2/3 fans are not regulating
> INFO
> *All my Fans are 3 pin connectors*
> Fans are set to auto/nornal in bios
> Thanks in advace
> AP514


Bold added by me.

Per the manual, the only fan header that is controllable with a 3-pin is the cpu. Fan 1-3 controllable only with pwm 4-pin. Fan 4 is 100% all the time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> I have the same problem.. We just have to sit and wait for a newer BIOS/Newer ET6 release unfortunatly


Not going to happen.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r3pshow*
> 
> hey guyz !
> just got my Z77X-UD3 !
> I'm a noob so please bear with me here !
> Q1: I need to know how to update the bios ? and a best bios to choose ?
> Q2: How to overclock my 3570k on the UD3 ?
> I'd really Appreciate your help ! thanks in advanced !
> EDIT: My other specs are :
> GPU: GB GTX 670
> PSU: Corsiar AX850watt
> CPU Cooler: H100
> SSD: OCZ vertex 4 128Gb (for OS)
> HDD: WD black 1T
> RAM: Kingston hyperX16Gb @1600MHz


Q1: RTFM; however I see several others have given you the procedure.
Q2: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I finally put the UD5H inside a case (Lian LI A05N) and the *PCH is overheating at idle*. System fans run at minimum RPM (750) then a few minutes later PCH goes over 50C and both SYS fans go max 1300rpm. It needs a fan over the z77, holding a fan over it for a few seconds makes temp drop below 50 and fans slow down. Outside the case PCH & mobo temps were in the 30s. I don't like this. The case is still open, no side or top panels installed yet. Any ides?


50 not unusual for the chipset. What is unusual is your fans reacting to it the way they are. Go into ET6 and click on the smart tab and then system fan. click the advanced button and then you can adjust the fan profile. Just play around with it till you get it so that your fans aren't driving you crazy. Make sure you hit the "set" button when you are done to test it out. You can also try using Speedfan too, but I don't know how well that works with this board. I used it on my old ASUS Socket 939 and it worked great. Or get a fan controller









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> OK, its was the PSU .After doing a Benchtable Setup and testing a different PSU I checked the 24 Pin Connector and found a loose pin.
> Everythings running fine now. OC to 4GHz with 1.070 Volt atm.
> Now to assemble that WC setup again. .... Sigh.


Glad you got it sorted. I had a feeling it was not your board or cpu but at least your up and running.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I don't recommend even using Marvell ports unless you already filled the remaining Intel 6Gbps and 3Gbps ports.
> Fan control on these boards is pretty much bad. You can control fans on CPU and Sys_FAN 1 headers through voltage and PWM. Sys_FAN 2 and 3 support PWM only according to manual.
> I never tested SYS_FAN 2 and 3 personally since everytime I decide to get my Intel heatsink out (the only PWM fan that I have is on it), I end up not doing it, so I can't confirm if PWM control even works on these headers.
> SYS_FAN 4 as you already know is always 100%.
> Hope this helps


According to the manual, only cpu fan header will control a fan via voltage (i.e., 3-pin). Have you tested Sys Fan 1 and determined that it can be controlled via voltage?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> According to the manual, only cpu fan header will control a fan via voltage (i.e., 3-pin). Have you tested Sys Fan 1 and determined that it can be controlled via voltage?


Yes I did, and check the manual again. It definitely says voltage control for SYS_FAN 1.


----------



## irfy

Holy smokes!! ive done it !! no cold boots wid i7 2600k and sleep is working also i hope (only happen now by chance). I was just watchin Green Lantern on telly left PC on benchin 3dmark in the back ground when suddenly PC switched OFF after 30min. I pressed Spacebar and PC woke just fine and it retained 5Ghz OC. Ive On & OFF pc like 16 - 17 times now and it has booted all the time.

Checked Power option profile it was set on default balanced ( i usually change this to High performance) keep it on balanced so the volatge drops proper under idle

F8 bios on both MAIN & BACKUP (same exact settings on both i think they both synced now)

You gota leave everything on Auto just change Multi bckl to 100

All the cpu power options c1/c6 turbo etc on auto and vtt 1.050 imc 1.045 set ur cpu voltage im using offset

Also under peripherals leave all those on auto dont enable IGP. Dont choose PEG. I did this many times i think this is the culprit.
I cant beilieve it 3 months or so..FINALLY

(ALLWAYS OFF PSU THEN HIT CMOS RESET) THEN power ON. Load defaults reboot enter bios. Then change your settings (Not much to change to be honest)
Only thing is ive lost ability to use MVP cos i dare not enable IGP. Everything on AUTO except LLC on turbo...Dont even set to extreme phase & fast voltage lve on AUTO.
I re-installed WIN 7 x64 sp1 NEVER EVER leave usb device like your mouse keyboard etc in USB3 ports whilst installin Windows ( i experienced severe issues i thought i lost my data but phew) use only USB 2 (red one at back) This time drivers were all from GB website not newer ones from station drivers.

Will test more later gona hit the sack now 7.05am









******** EDIT Sleep not allways working...however after some reading it could be Nvidia drivers related ******

***** Testing F12 now (detects Samsung green wid correct voltage) wid same settings as F8 *****


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starships*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm considering the UD5H for my new build but I've read a few things that I want to be sure about.
> First off, apparently the TRIM function for SSD drives isn't supported by the controllers on this board, is this correct? I've yet to even use an SSD, is the speed difference with TRIM actually noticeable?
> I've read that the system 4 fan header is 100% on all the time on the UD3H, does it also apply to the UD5H? If it does, are the rest of the fan headers working PWM?


TRIM isn't available under RAID with SSD's (yet) but that's not a hardware thing AFAIK.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfy*
> 
> Holy smokes!! ive done it !! no cold boots wid i7 2600k and sleep is working also i hope (only happen now by chance). I was just watchin Green Lantern on telly left PC on benchin 3dmark in the back ground when suddenly PC switched OFF after 30min. I pressed Spacebar and PC woke just fine and it retained 5Ghz OC. Ive On & OFF pc like 16 - 17 times now and it has booted all the time.
> Checked Power option profile it was set on default balanced ( i usually change this to High performance) keep it on balanced so the volatge drops proper under idle
> F8 bios on both MAIN & BACKUP (same exact settings on both i think they both synced now)
> You gota leave everything on Auto just change Multi bckl to 100
> All the cpu power options c1/c6 turbo etc on auto and vtt 1.050 imc 1.045 set ur cpu voltage im using offset
> Also under peripherals leave all those on auto dont enable IGP. Dont choose PEG. I did this many times i think this is the culprit.
> I cant beilieve it 3 months or so..FINALLY
> (ALLWAYS OFF PSU THEN HIT CMOS RESET) THEN power ON. Load defaults reboot enter bios. Then change your settings (Not much to change to be honest)
> Only thing is ive lost ability to use MVP cos i dare not enable IGP. Everything on AUTO except LLC on turbo...Dont even set to extreme phase & fast voltage lve on AUTO.
> I re-installed WIN 7 x64 sp1 NEVER EVER leave usb device like your mouse keyboard etc in USB3 ports whilst installin Windows ( i experienced severe issues i thought i lost my data but phew) use only USB 2 (red one at back) This time drivers were all from GB website not newer ones from station drivers.
> Will test more later gona hit the sack now 7.05am


Glad you got it sorted out. But no reason setting to High Performance in Windows will not let idle voltage drop that I know of. I use HP setting and sleep and no problems for me anyway.


----------



## stasio

TRIM is available.









Btw,
new BIOS is out.


----------



## irfy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> TRIM is available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw,
> new BIOS is out.


Statio any change log UD5 F12 ? What is your honest opinion on the UP5. I have a chance to get it at wicked price.


----------



## AP514

Barkeater

"*Per the manual, the only fan header that is controllable with a 3-pin is the cpu. Fan 1-3 controllable only with pwm 4-pin. Fan 4 is 100% all the time.*"

FYI. not Correct..................... Fan 1 works w/ 3 pin conector and controls the fans speed from Cpu heat readings.......tested on the -D3H anyway
Too bad the othere Fan controls do not work like they suggested...Back to Asus next time


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Oh. My bad lol. So can you explain the cf sli more? Why would an 1155 board support 4 way?
> 
> 
> 
> 1155 supports 4 way Crossfire on any board with 4 PCI-E that gives x4 per lane. Or 4-way SLI on any board with PLX chip.
> 
> However, what he probably means is that any 1155 CPU would potentially bottleneck powerful 4 way SLI/Crossfire setup anyway, so there is no point.
Click to expand...

I know cpu always bottlenecks a gpu but how bad would it be compared to 2011 or 1366? I can overclock my i5-2550k
to 5GHz of raw speed. Also does anyone know how fast of ram you can put in the Sniper 3? It says 1600 but I've seen faster.


----------



## cr1

Sniper 3 -> 4×240pin DDR3 2666(OC)/1600/1333/1066


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfy*
> 
> Statio any change log UD5 F12 ? What is your honest opinion on the UP5. I have a chance to get it at wicked price.


Go for UP5.
GB working on BIOS improvements.


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Go for UP5.
> GB working on BIOS improvements.


Hey stasio, sorry to bother you but do you know how much does it take for a bios to become official? i'm talking about the f13 on the ud3h. Thank you and have a nice weekend.


----------



## sixor

f15 for ud3h


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hey stasio, sorry to bother you but do you know how much does it take for a bios to become official? i'm talking about the f13 on the ud3h. Thank you and have a nice weekend.


It's doesn't matter official or Beta,at least BIOS suit your spec and you have no problem.


----------



## recnepsbuh

I am getting ready to order the UD5H, which is the last part I need for my first build. I have been trying to keep up with this thread, but to be honest, alot of it is above my head. I have a friend that is going to help me that has been into computers for a long time, but just so I might be able to help a little, what is the BIOS I should start with? I dont know if my friend has kept up with this board in paticular, so I thought it might help once everything is put together. This guy is a little bit of a genious, so he may already know this, but I am just trying to be a little more informed. Thanks for any help.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AP514*
> 
> Barkeater
> "*Per the manual, the only fan header that is controllable with a 3-pin is the cpu. Fan 1-3 controllable only with pwm 4-pin. Fan 4 is 100% all the time.*"
> FYI. not Correct..................... Fan 1 works w/ 3 pin conector and controls the fans speed from Cpu heat readings.......tested on the -D3H anyway
> Too bad the othere Fan controls do not work like they suggested...Back to Asus next time


Yep, somebody had asked about this before, see my post on UD5H fans here. To me it looks like sys fans 1-3 are regulating based on mobo temp.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> Sniper 3 -> 4×240pin DDR3 2666(OC)/1600/1333/1066


Thanks! One question though. How do I get say 2133 ram? Through in 1600 and below, set timings and freq to new settings, power down and swamp out sticks with the new ram? Or do I put in 2133 ram and just set it like normal? Not too keen on ram OCing.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Thanks! One question though. How do I get say 2133 ram? Through in 1600 and below, set timings and freq to new settings, power down and swamp out sticks with the new ram? Or do I put in 2133 ram and just set it like normal? Not too keen on ram OCing.


As you got a Sandy Bridge processor, anything above 1333Mhz would be useless. I'd say get some tight CL6 or CL7 1333Mhz memory sticks and run it like that.

Although, if you change your processor in the future, then do get 1600Mhz sticks, namely of Samsung Green:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096

To make it run at 2133Mhz, all you need to do is to enable it's XMP profile i.e. if it's rated at 2133Mhz.


----------



## Skullwipe

In CPUID Hardware Monitor, TMPIN2 is hitting 75c max temp when OC'd to 4.5Ghz and stress testing, seems excessive to me. Is this something I can drop with a reduction in voltage response time or some other advanced voltage setting?


----------



## irfy

thats apparently normal jus oc'in mates Asus mobo his temps are higher than urs tho his is 3770K.

Ivybridge heat biggest let down. You could try and undervolt cpu although havent had chance to try myself. Check Anandtech for the article.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfy*
> 
> thats apparently normal jus oc'in mates Asus mobo his temps are higher than urs tho his is 3770K.
> Ivybridge heat biggest let down. You could try and undervolt cpu although havent had chance to try myself. Check Anandtech for the article.


This isn't a CPU temp, this is the Motherboard, which bugs me even more considering I have two 140mm side intake fans blowing directly on that area. CPU is topping out at 90c in RealTemp, which matches the maximum package temp in Hardware Monitor. Considering I'm using a stock Hyper 612 PWM this isn't overly surprising.

I just need to know if I can reduce these temps by dialing in some of the advanced voltage settings, I feel pretty good hitting 4.5 with my Vcore at 1.25.

Edit: This was a spike that happens in the transition between P95 tests, which seems to be when CPU temps peak as well, 95% of the time it's between 56 and 60c.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Thanks! One question though. How do I get say 2133 ram? Through in 1600 and below, set timings and freq to new settings, power down and swamp out sticks with the new ram? Or do I put in 2133 ram and just set it like normal? Not too keen on ram OCing.
> 
> 
> 
> As you got a Sandy Bridge processor, anything above 1333Mhz would be useless. I'd say get some tight CL6 or CL7 1333Mhz memory sticks and run it like that.
> 
> Although, if you change your processor in the future, then do get 1600Mhz sticks, namely of Samsung Green:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096
> 
> To make it run at 2133Mhz, all you need to do is to enable it's XMP profile i.e. if it's rated at 2133Mhz.
Click to expand...

Why would it be useless? Besides I run this ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-226-191&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=5&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=%28keywords%29#scrollFullInfo

I love that ram except my motherboard is being stupid and I have to RMA it to MSI. I'll take this board and throw it into my other PC and use the Sniper 3 in my current one.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yes I did, and check the manual again. It definitely says voltage control for SYS_FAN 1.






OK, I guess you are supposed to be able to get that from the table for SYS_FAN1 under pin 2 where it indicates +12V/Speed Control; same as CPU_FAN. Not like the manual comes right out and indicates that sys_fan1 can control a 3 or 4 pin fan. To make matters more confusing, in the bios, the SYS_FAN1 through 3 are all lumped together, with no option (like there is for the cpu fan) to indicated how to control the fan (i.e., pwm or voltage).


----------



## irfy

****** edit i checked wid same program mine goes upto 65-66 max. (running OCCT @ 5GHz 1.57v) its prob cos im using sandy bridge ur on ivy (more heat)


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> OK, I guess you are supposed to be able to get that from the table for SYS_FAN1 under pin 2 where it indicates +12V/Speed Control; same as CPU_FAN. Not like the manual comes right out and indicates that sys_fan1 can control a 3 or 4 pin fan. To make matters more confusing, in the bios, the SYS_FAN1 through 3 are all lumped together, with no option (like there is for the cpu fan) to indicated how to control the fan (i.e., pwm or voltage).


Yep, that's how I identified that in the first place. And I agree that it's a bit confusing.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Hey Sin it wasn't the mobo after-all


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Hey Sin it wasn't the mobo after-all
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice one!

can you share BIOS profile? what BIOS is this?


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Why would it be useless? Besides I run this ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-226-191&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=5&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=%28keywords%29#scrollFullInfo
> I love that ram except my motherboard is being stupid and I have to RMA it to MSI. I'll take this board and throw it into my other PC and use the Sniper 3 in my current one.


It would be useless because as Sandy processor's IMC's basic support of memory sticks is still 1333Mhz, any theoretical speeds above it wont give you any performance enhancement, except for in benches. It's the same thing with Ivy Bridge but till after1600Mhz.


----------



## BobLeProf

Back from a 2 month trip away from my UD5H. Now running BIOS F12, and installed the Windows 8 64-bit drivers that are now on the Gigabyte site. Optimized defaults, mem profile 1, BCLK & C3/C6 left on auto. Essentially everything except mem profile on default. No problems sleeping, no crashes or freezes. I also set the Intel HD 4000 graphics memory to 512 (on an earlier bios & driver this used to cause freezes - now no problems). I don't know if the improved stability is due to the bios, the drivers, the OS updates, or some combination, but this is looking very good at stock.

The only issue that I still haven't completely worked out is some trouble recognizing a USB 3,0 stick (I have had to pull it out & plug it back in each time, then it worked fine - same things an all of the USB 3.0 ports but only for my Corsair 3.0 drive). But the flash drive failed yesterday and I had to RMA it, so the problem might have been the drive all along. We'll see.

So, basically, I'm a very happy camper at this point.

One question, is there any advantage to setting the internal memory size higher than the default 64MB? I would think so, but I haven't seen anything specific about this.

TIA


----------



## Skullwipe

So I've gotten a relatively stable OC at 4.5 Ghz with my 3570k, but after 1:30-3 hours of P95 core # 2 faults out. Any help getting this rock solid would be appreciated. Below are the only settings I've changed, related to the frequency and power settings.

Cpu Ratio: 45
Turbo Power limit: 300
Core Current Limit: 200
LLC: Turbo
PLL: 1.6000
Vcore: 1.24 (same results at 1.25 and 1.26)


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> So I've gotten a relatively stable OC at 4.5 Ghz with my 3570k, but after 1:30-3 hours of P95 core # 2 faults out. Any help getting this rock solid would be appreciated. Below are the only settings I've changed, related to the frequency and power settings.
> Cpu Ratio: 45
> Turbo Power limit: 300
> Core Current Limit: 200
> LLC: Turbo
> PLL: 1.6000
> Vcore: 1.24 (same results at 1.25 and 1.26)


i need 1.27-1.28 for 4.5, for 4.4 i can do fine at 1.245


----------



## Skullwipe

I'm not sure if I should try for a turbo overclock instead, and mess with the whole offset thing. This is my first real attempt on Ivy or with a z77 board. I can game on it at 4.5Ghz just fine, but it bugs me that I get a hardware fault in p95, it's just not acceptable. Maybe I'll try more voltage tonight when I get home from work, but my temps are already at the limit of where I'm comfortable...this Hyper 612 really isn't as strong of a performer as I'd hoped. Seeing some people pull off better temps with the 212.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> 50 not unusual for the chipset. What is unusual is your fans reacting to it the way they are. Go into ET6 and click on the smart tab and then system fan. click the advanced button and then you can adjust the fan profile. Just play around with it till you get it so that your fans aren't driving you crazy. Make sure you hit the "set" button when you are done to test it out. You can also try using Speedfan too, but I don't know how well that works with this board. I used it on my old ASUS Socket 939 and it worked great. Or get a fan controller


Does ET6 change the fan profile permanently in BIOS? It seems that any fan parameters you set persist only as long as the ET6 application is running... and ET6 doesn't run in Linux.

I'm really surprised that nobody here noticed that *the BIOS triggers an alarm at 50C mobo temp causing all SYS fans to go on max rpm!* 50C is not that high, and proper behavior is for the fans to ramp up gradually. Fix it Gig-o-myte!

//


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> So I've gotten a relatively stable OC at 4.5 Ghz with my 3570k, but after 1:30-3 hours of P95 core # 2 faults out. Any help getting this rock solid would be appreciated. Below are the only settings I've changed, related to the frequency and power settings.
> Cpu Ratio: 45
> Turbo Power limit: 300
> Core Current Limit: 200
> LLC: Turbo
> PLL: 1.6000
> Vcore: 1.24 (same results at 1.25 and 1.26)


Try 1.27v or more, this should fix it


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Does ET6 change the fan profile permanently in BIOS? It seems that any fan parameters you set persist only as long as the ET6 application is running... and ET6 doesn't run in Linux.
> I'm really surprised that nobody here noticed that *the BIOS triggers an alarm at 50C mobo temp causing all SYS fans to go on max rpm!* 50C is not that high, and proper behavior is for the fans to ramp up gradually. Fix it Gig-o-myte!
> //


You can either increase the temp at which the bios will alarm or disable altogether. The bios does not control you fans; that is done by ET6 and ET6 has to be running for it to do that. You can set ET6 to start when windows starts so you don't have to start it every time you start your computer. In ET6, you can create a profile to adjust your case fans based on system temperature. If you feel they are going to max too easily, adjust the profile accordingly.


----------



## sterob

say for normal use with no oc (to run with xeon e3-1245v2) should i go with the ud3h or pay more for the ud5h?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sterob*
> 
> say for normal use with no oc (to run with xeon e3-1245v2) should i go with the ud3h or pay more for the ud5h?


Depends if you need the extra features.. But in reality the UD3H (or D3H) will do the same especially if running stock.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> You can either increase the temp at which the bios will alarm or disable altogether. The bios does not control you fans; that is done by ET6 and ET6 has to be running for it to do that. You can set ET6 to start when windows starts so you don't have to start it every time you start your computer. In ET6, you can create a profile to adjust your case fans based on system temperature. If you feel they are going to max too easily, adjust the profile accordingly.


Apps like ET6 and Speedfan are great for testing but otherwise dangerous. These apps can crash and allow your pc to overheat and self-destruct. But BIOS does not crash and will continue to regulate the fans even if the OS itself crashes. I run Linux 95% of the time, so I cannot use these applets even if they were reliable. And frankly I wrote better apps than ET6 in high school.

The good thing in this case, is that *the 50-degree cutoff is just a false alarm*. This mobo is fine at 50C and (as you suggested) we can simply disable the BIOS' fan control, and run fans at fixed rpm around 30% to 50%. On my setup, at 50C all case fans kick to 100% making a lot of unnecessary noise, then stop just as suddenly 2 minutes later after mobo temp has dropped 3-4 degrees. I hope G fixes this bug, system fans should ramp up gradually.

Gigabyte has the best harware reliability but is still behind in BIOS. e.g. AMD chipsets include very advanced fan controller but so far Gigabyte is unable to implement/integrate it.


----------



## DaBearZ

Hey to all you Z77X owners!

I'm looking to buy one myself but i'm trying to get clarified on a possible issue.
Quote:


> Gigabyte further warns that all three of the board's x1 slots are disabled whenever a PCIe x4 (or larger) card is installed in the bottom slot, since only four of the chipset's eight lanes are available for expansion.


(http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/z77-express-ivy-bridge-benchmark,3254-18.html)

Does anyone know if the UD3H also behaves like this?


----------



## Sin0822

the UD5H doesn't behave like that, but the UD3H does.

The UD5H gets its PCi-E lanes for the 4x slot from the CPu not the PCH.


----------



## DaBearZ

Okay thanks!
Possibly my wallet just got lighter


----------



## neoprimal

I format my drive today and put W8 Enterprise Eval on my PC to see what is to come in 2 months in terms of experience with the OS and install; without any settings changes in the BIOS or disabling Superfetch, the PC seems to be 100% stable. There have been no crashes, no freezes, no instabilities. It has been going since about 11am, give or take about 30m for drivers installation restarts and other tests I performed.

As of BIOS F15 I also haven't seen any VIA USB 3 dropouts whatsoever. Granted, they went away almost fully when I moved the hubs and usb 2 devices to the usb 2 ports but this is more than that. I performed USB switch ups both with the PC off as well as on, trying the hubs in USB 3 ports and swapping the keyboard and my 2 USB 3 drives around. 100% of the time before now these change ups would result in a VIA USB 3 dropout of something plugged in. Now? Nada issues.

The Intel USB 3 port (under the LAN) now activates early enough to be able to go into the BIOS reliably. Before, there was a 50/50 chance that it was not active until some time after the BIOS logo went away which meant I would miss getting into the BIOS. Because of this, I resorted to pluging it into one of the VIA USB 3 ports instead. Doing this meant that if I had to use a USB flash drive or did any kind of OS boot or install, I'd have to manually switch to the Intel port (since the VIA USB 3 port requires drivers after boot). The Intel port still doesn't power up the keyboard fully as the VIA USB 3 port initially where the LCD lights up, but there is keyboard function which is all I need to get into the BIOS. Leaving it in the Intel port means that I can also easily install my OS or run pre-boot items without swapping ports.

I can say that today I have more faith and respect in GB than I did even a month ago, way more. If the board remains stable and trouble free for the long haul, they may have a(nother) loyal customer on their hands and I might finally be able to say I've replaced Abit as my number 1 board builder.


----------



## clerick

Just got this mobo after my MSI died. Does anyone know how to control fan speed on this? Not having any luck with speedfan beside CPU header.


----------



## mayur914

So I just bought me a GA-Z77X-UD3H and just have a big problem with it right now. When I am running it on my antec 300 with the i5-3570k cpu. The problem I am having is that when it is on sometimes it will turn off on it own. And I am also just installing Windows on it and for some reason after a while there will be a red line on the left side of the screen and it will stay there for a while then the computer will restart out of nowhere. I don't know what the exactly problem is.


----------



## Kitarist

Check your PSU also


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Hey Sin it wasn't the mobo after-all
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is awsome









PS
Sorry for bothering you once again









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



It's about your theme / skins. I've just downloaded the files but I can't make them work together
Actually I've installed Rainmeter several times, adding the taboo_Vision folders inside the program's directory but There's something I miss cause' it won't work








Can you tell me which version of the Rainmeter did you use (default location, x64 yes or no)?
And if there is any other tip to get all the taboo_Vision skins work on my desktop


----------



## Matt-Matt

Just to update:
Beta BIOS F13 is working on my Z77-D3H, but no Samsung memory over-clocking past 1866MHz still..


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> Just got this mobo after my MSI died. Does anyone know how to control fan speed on this? Not having any luck with speedfan beside CPU header.


Download and install EasyTune6 (ET6) from Gigabyte website.

http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139&dl=1#utility


----------



## ivanlabrie

Should I flash the samsung fix bios for my z77x-ud5h to oc my greens with my 3770k further?
Just need some reassurance...
Thanks!


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Should I flash the samsung fix bios for my z77x-ud5h to oc my greens with my 3770k further?
> Just need some reassurance...
> Thanks!


I believe any BIOS past F9q contains tweaks for the Green RAM.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Whats the latest Bios for Z77X-UD5H?


----------



## 2therock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Whats the latest Bios for Z77X-UD5H?


i SUGGEST YOU BOOKMARK THIS ONE.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2therock*
> 
> i SUGGEST YOU BOOKMARK THIS ONE.


Ty.


----------



## QuackPot

Out of interest, what do you UD5H owners get when you do the RMAA benchmark?

http://audio.rightmark.org/download.shtml

This is what I get.
Quote:


> Frequency response (from 40 Hz to 15 kHz), dB
> +5.36, -1.93
> Poor
> Noise level, dB (A)
> -83.0
> Good
> Dynamic range, dB (A)
> 82.9
> Good
> THD, %
> 0.158
> Average
> THD + Noise, dB (A)
> -50.9
> Poor
> IMD + Noise, %
> 6.482
> Very poor
> Stereo crosstalk, dB
> -83.7
> Very good
> IMD at 10 kHz, %
> 0.328
> Average
> General performance
> 
> Average


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> Out of interest, what do you UD5H owners get when you do the RMAA benchmark?
> http://audio.rightmark.org/download.shtml


Sin's results.


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Sin's results.


Thanks but I've seen that already. Just wondering what other people's results are.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> Thanks but I've seen that already. Just wondering what other people's results are.


Aren't results greatly dependent on speakers and a microphone setup?

I see no point in comparing...


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Aren't results greatly dependent on speakers and a microphone setup?
> I see no point in comparing...


That's what I'm trying to find out. I've ran the test using speakers on the back of the board and earphones on the front of my case and I get the same results.


----------



## sena

Guys anyone know range of Wifi card?
Also if anyone know is signal powerful enough to pass though two walls?
I need answer fast.

Cheers


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Download and install EasyTune6 (ET6) from Gigabyte website.
> http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139&dl=1#utility


Tried that on windows 8 and it locked up hardcore. Then after every sequential boot it would slow my pc to a halt and eventually lock up the OS. Had to reinstall windows to get rid of it.


----------



## barkeater

Probably better to do a system restore point before installing and then you can just revert back if having issues.


----------



## mayur914

Anyone be able to help me on this issue or is it just a bad mobo that I got??


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayur914*
> 
> Anyone be able to help me on this issue or is it just a bad mobo that I got??


You really didn't supply enough information. Are you running on integrated graphics? If not try doing so, and if so try adding a GPU.


----------



## Skullwipe

Double post, but if it works fine on integrated graphics your GPU is probably bad, and if it works with a GPU it could either be the CPU or the MB.


----------



## sterob

anyone know if gigabyte z77 ud5h can work with ECC unbufffered ram?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sterob*
> 
> anyone know if gigabyte z77 ud5h can work with ECC unbufffered ram?


Nope.

4 x 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 32 GB of system memory
* Due to Windows 32-bit operating system limitation, when more than 4 GB of physical memory is installed, the actual memory size displayed will be less than 4 GB.
Dual channel memory architecture
Support for DDR3 2400(OC)/1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules
Support for non-ECC memory modules
Support for Extreme Memory Profile (XMP) memory modules


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sterob*
> 
> anyone know if gigabyte z77 ud5h can work with ECC unbufffered ram?


Why would you want to run ECC RAM in this bad larry anyhow?


----------



## sterob

just to extra protection that my program wont crash when i do my work


----------



## slicetank

Hey guys, I'm on the F11 bios and also having problems OCing my samsung ram anything past 1600mhz. I have it @ 1600 8-8-8-24 1t right now which is pretty nice but it bothers me that I cant push the frequency haha. Should I update to f15? Also, where can i find the changelog for these new beta BIOS'? I can't find it on the tweaktown link anywhere.


----------



## Sin0822

yea update your BIOS. That is odd you should deff be able to do at least 2000mhz.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot*
> 
> That's what I'm trying to find out. I've ran the test using speakers on the back of the board and earphones on the front of my case and I get the same results.


The results are HEAVILY dependant on software. So disable all software effects







that is what i always do. B/c surround sound will kill RMAA. Any type of mic boost or bass boost or effect will kill it too. You also make sure to set your bit rate and stuff the same as what you are testing. i froget if MIC to headphone jack is better or to line in.

I don't run RMAA unless the thing turn green form red, which is hard to do with all modern boards, unless they just don't come with anything other than standard driver.


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> The results are HEAVILY dependant on software. So disable all software effects
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that is what i always do. B/c surround sound will kill RMAA. Any type of mic boost or bass boost or effect will kill it too. You also make sure to set your bit rate and stuff the same as what you are testing. i froget if MIC to headphone jack is better or to line in.
> I don't run RMAA unless the thing turn green form red, which is hard to do with all modern boards, unless they just don't come with anything other than standard driver.


Thanks dude,

I was on "[MME] Wave Wrapper" and after changing it to "[Win Sound] Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio) @ 16bit 96khz I got the following results:
Quote:


> Frequency response (from 40 Hz to 15 kHz), dB
> +0.06, -0.14
> Very good
> Noise level, dB (A)
> -91.7
> Very good
> Dynamic range, dB (A)
> 91.7
> Very good
> THD, %
> 0.0065
> Very good
> THD + Noise, dB (A)
> -69.0
> Average
> IMD + Noise, %
> 0.041
> Good
> Stereo crosstalk, dB
> -90.1
> Excellent
> IMD at 10 kHz, %
> 0.034
> Good
> General performance
> 
> Very good


I am using ancient crap speakers atm since I don't have the money for new ones (I desperatly need a new 1TB HDD) so I'm not sure if they could affect the audio by any way.

But thanks for the info. More +rep coming your way.


----------



## BabyBurke

What's a solid 8gb set of RAM you guys would recommend for the ud3h and that will fit under a hyper 212? Thanks.

Thinking about a set of these, but I don't see it on the supported memory list:

F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2

If those won't work I'll likely get these instead:

F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabyBurke*
> 
> What's a solid 8gb set of RAM you guys would recommend for the ud3h and that will fit under a hyper 212? Thanks.



Samsung Green? They overclock very good (2133Mhz+).


----------



## BabyBurke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> 
> Samsung Green? They overclock very good (2133Mhz+).


Wow, those are small!

Would you recommend those over the gskill ones I posted? Thanks.

EDIT: I didn't see the samsung ones on the memory support list, will they still be compatible?

EDIT2: It doesn't seem like ncix sells the samsung set.







I would prefer to purchase from there since I'm planning on buying all parts at once from the same place.


----------



## DeXel

G.Skill are fine. They won't overclock as good though.

Memory support list isn't full. Most of the time you won't have any compatibility issues. Many people here use Samsung Green with these GB boards, and they work fine. With the latest BIOS they also overclock better.


----------



## Skullwipe

Corsair Vengeance Low Profile sticks will fit as well, they come in black, blue and white, the white model is low voltage.

NewEgg is out of them atm, but amazon has them in stock.


Corsair Low Profile


----------



## Twitchie

Has there been a BIOS update to fix the issue of BCLK reading as 100.9 (in my case) even if it's set at 100?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchie*
> 
> Has there been a BIOS update to fix the issue of BCLK reading as 100.9 (in my case) even if it's set at 100?


I thought the 100.9 was a fix they put in in one of the very early BIOSes (F4-F6 era)?


----------



## Sin0822

yea it shouldn't be at 100.9 anymore.


----------



## arrow0309

*Kingston HyperX Predator 8GB 2666 MHz Kit @ Legit Reviews*










*Gigabyte G1.Sniper 3 @ Ninja Lane*

*Gigabyte G1.Sniper 3 @ XtremeHardware (in italian)*


----------



## mandrix

Oh man I love the look of that ram. I like the color better than the regular HyperX.


----------



## ivanlabrie

I'm checking the review out...love my board









Thanks!


----------



## Sin0822

yea I have one of those new kingston kits, they don't like to overclock and their timings are already very loose. However I only have the 24C11, not the 26, so maybe I have a lower binned kit. This seems to be the same as the TridentX. I just got in a 16GB kit of TridentX 2666, i didn't ask for this much memory or at this speed, but i am going to give it a shot.


----------



## Sin0822

also justgot in right now dominators 2600mhz c10 the plats 16gb kit.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> also justgot in right now dominators 2600mhz c10 the plats 16gb kit.


That sounds more interesting...which ic are those?


----------



## Sin0822

samsung for sure, just prob takes a lot more binning on their side to produce it.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> samsung for sure, just prob takes a lot more binning on their side to produce it.


Yeah, thought so...I have 6 samsung greens to bin. Let's cross fingers


----------



## Sin0822

haahaha yea, just use the right BIOS


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> also justgot in right now dominators 2600mhz c10 the plats 16gb kit.


Lucky guy,








at least now you can check now how this 2600/2666 super kits perform with BIOS......








I getting next week TridentX 2600 to join my TeamX 2600.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Lucky guy,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at least now you can check now how this 2600/2666 super kits perform with BIOS......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I getting next week TridentX 2600 to join my TeamX 2600.


Those teamXtreem look real good. How much do those cost?
Wonder how they stack up against the Samsung greens and the Trident X.

Have you tested Ripjaws Z kits with your board?


----------



## Sin0822

those teem extreme must be samsung, right?


----------



## recnepsbuh

I have my new rig with the UD5H up and going. I have been playing D3 and doing regular surfing with no problems. I just have a few questions. Whenever I start the computer from being shut down, the debug LED cycles through several numbers very quickly. The CPU fan will start, then kinda pause, and take off again. I get to the login screen for Wndows very quickly, and like I said, everything seems fine. I played D3 last night for aobut 6 hours, no shutdowns or warnings. There was some studdering/jittering, but that is a known problem of the game. Is the cycling of the numbers at startup normal? Also, now the debug LED has "A0" on it, which means IDE initialization is started. It has had debug code the whole time.

This being my first build, I am not sure about a few things, but I am trying!! Any help will be appreciated.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> There was some studdering/jittering, but that is a known problem of the game. Is the cycling of the numbers at startup normal?


Yes
Quote:


> Also, now the debug LED has "A0" on it, which means IDE initialization is started. It has had debug code the whole time.


Some people figured out that A0 means the main BIOS is used, and A3 (or something similar) secondary.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> those teem extreme must be samsung, right?


Yea,it's Samsung IC
Btw,you have PM.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> those teem extreme must be samsung, right?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1268061/ocn-ram-addict-club-gallery/40#post_18023080


----------



## dartuil

hello, i want this one








http://www.gigabyte.fr/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#
can u tell me if gigabyte resolve the boot circle?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1034724/gigabyte-p67-z68-boot-cycling-problem/760


----------



## DeXel

Gigabyte Z77 boards have no boot cycle issues







.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Gigabyte Z77 boards have no boot cycle issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


This.

My Z77X-UD5H almost boots _too_ quickly.

Also, my P67A-UD7 doesn't have a boot loop problem either.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> My Z77X-UD5H almost boots _too_ quickly.


Even on mechanical drive, mine has me into Windows within 15 seconds of pressing power the button.


----------



## AP514

OK got a few TEMP Questions......

i5 3750K
*GA-Z77X-D3H*
MSI-Twin Frozr 4GB O/C

EZ tune 6 says my CPU cores are at 23c and Real Temp GT show it at 30c. Which is the better program . Also is there a better temp Program out there for my Board ? Just want to have good readings before I Start O/C. Im a bit New at O/C..do not want to Fry my New Rig...









Also My PCH Shows 50c at IDLE and about 61c during GAME'n. Should I be worried ?

Thanks in advance

AP514


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AP514*
> 
> OK got a few TEMP Questions......
> i5 3750K
> *GA-Z77X-D3H*
> MSI-Twin Frozr 4GB O/C
> EZ tune 6 says my CPU cores are at 23c and Real Temp GT show it at 30c. Which is the better program . Also is there a better temp Program out there for my Board ? Just want to have good readings before I Start O/C. Im a bit New at O/C..do not want to Fry my New Rig...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also My PCH Shows 50c at IDLE and about 61c during GAME'n. Should I be worried ?
> Thanks in advance
> AP514


don´t trust easytune

don´t use it either

i use coretemp, realtemp is nice too, also cpuid hardware monitor, and many others, easytune is the only one with wrong temps


----------



## AP514

thank I figured EZ tune was a bit screwy........

Well that means my CPU is IDLE'n at 30c......90 F my room temp is 76 F.

Well If i do not use EZ tune what do I use to O/C ...I know Bois but I kind of was like'n the idea of Upclock'n for games and fast Dclock'n for just Browse'n... IM new to the O/C seen....so Im lookng for some good Advice........

Point me to some good Threads...










AP514


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AP514*
> 
> thank I figured EZ tune was a bit screwy........
> Well that means my CPU is IDLE'n at 30c......90 F my room temp is 76 F.
> Well If i do not use EZ tune what do I use to O/C ...I know Bois but I kind of was like'n the idea of Upclock'n for games and fast Dclock'n for just Browse'n... IM new to the O/C seen....so Im lookng for some good Advice........
> Point me to some good Threads...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AP514


What you want is offset oc, with turbo boost enabled.
It clocks higher automaticaly when enough load is detected on the cpu cores, and downclocks to save power when idle.
You have to enable C-states in the bios and turbo boost and change the turbo boost multiplier.

You can find a very good guide by Sin, for Gigabyte boards and Ivy cpu's, give that a look. (use the search engine and look for 'sandy bridge overclocking guide gigabyte ln2' and you'll bump into it.

EDIT: This will come in handy too: http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread


----------



## kithylin

Okay.... I'm an owner of a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H motherboard, it's pretty awesome in general, other than a lot of very annoying problems to ever get the OS running.

That's not why I'm posting.... What I'm wondering is I've read in other parts of this thread that this "Lucid Virtu" thing this motherboard says it supports here on the motherboard box... is supposed to drastically increase frame rates in games?

Well the problem is I don't think I have it installed. I popped in the driver DVD that came with it in the box and clicked "install all" and it ran everything, but I don't see this Lucid Virtu anywhere under program folders in start menu, and I don't know what it is and how to know if I've enabled it or it's running or not or what?

Could someone please give me some information on this? Some information about my build is below:

Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H Motherboard
Intel Core i5-3450S Ivy Bridge 2.8GHz processor
2 x Intel Hyper-X DDR3-1600 8 GB (2 x 4GB)
4 x Western Digital WD1600AAJS 160 GB, 7200 RPM, 8mb buffer, SATA-II, RAID-0 using onboard Intel raid.
Cooler Master 700 watt single-rail power supply.
XFX Radeon HD 7770 FX-777A-ZDSC - Black Edition: Super Overclocked version
Running Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit

I'm not a noob, I've been building PC's for myself since my 486 in 1994, just this is my first Ivy Bridge system, and I jumped over sandy bridge and upgraded directly from i7-920 x59 system to a Z77 Ivy Bridge system, and I've never heard of this "Lucid Virtu" thing on motherboards before.

I chose this motherboard because it had everything I wanted and it was less than $200. Things I was looking for in my new system: Run two pci-express 3.0 video cards in Cross-fire (later I'll add a second 7770, not currently with this build) at at-least 8x8x on both. (lots of z77 motherboards I looked at ran one at 8x and the other at 4x). It has a 3rd pci-e slot @ PCI-e 2.1 for a nvidia video card for phys-X later (even if it is 4x speed), and it has a PCI slot, an optical audio port on board, and has onboard intel ICH10R raid.

So... it looked like everything I wanted and it wasn't expensive (I paid $149.99 for it on newegg), so, win. I just need to figure out all the quirks on it. I've only owned it about a month now.


----------



## RONCAL

Hi, i have a question for GIGABYTE Z77X-UD5H owners.

I have this motherboard and I have been using the intel HD graphics on the I7-3770k Quad-Core 3.5GHz LGA 1155 chip just fine. I just bought the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 TI Windforce 2x OC GV-N66TOC-2 graphics card and when I put it into the PCIex16 slot and powered up the computer, no picture appeared on my monitor - I have it connected via HDMI. When I disconnect the cable from the graphics card and connect it to the motherboard's HDMI port, I get a picture and I see that the computer successfully booted up into my 64bit Win7. The 'Init Display First' is set to Auto and Internal Graphics set to Auto. I know the card works because I put it in my older Gigabyte GA-EX58-DS4 board and it works just fine. I put my older BFG Geforce GTX 260 in the Z77X PCIex16 slot and it works just fine. I have the F12 bios installed. I've spend 20 hours researching this problem and I'm turning to all of you for help - Gigabyte was no help. Thanks ahead of time.


----------



## coolhandluke41

I would clear CMOS /load optimized/disable internal graphics-Init Display First (PEG or something like that )

EDIT; make sure to switch cables on the back and monitor from DVI to HDMI


----------



## gizmo83

hi guys







can you tell me the temperature of your UD5H motherboard measured with aida64? thank you!


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> Okay.... I'm an owner of a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H motherboard, it's pretty awesome in general, other than a lot of very annoying problems to ever get the OS running.
> That's not why I'm posting.... What I'm wondering is I've read in other parts of this thread that this "Lucid Virtu" thing this motherboard says it supports here on the motherboard box... is supposed to drastically increase frame rates in games?
> Well the problem is I don't think I have it installed. I popped in the driver DVD that came with it in the box and clicked "install all" and it ran everything, but I don't see this Lucid Virtu anywhere under program folders in start menu, and I don't know what it is and how to know if I've enabled it or it's running or not or what?
> Could someone please give me some information on this? Some information about my build is below:
> Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H Motherboard
> Intel Core i5-3450S Ivy Bridge 2.8GHz processor
> 2 x Intel Hyper-X DDR3-1600 8 GB (2 x 4GB)
> 4 x Western Digital WD1600AAJS 160 GB, 7200 RPM, 8mb buffer, SATA-II, RAID-0 using onboard Intel raid.
> Cooler Master 700 watt single-rail power supply.
> XFX Radeon HD 7770 FX-777A-ZDSC - Black Edition: Super Overclocked version
> Running Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit
> I'm not a noob, I've been building PC's for myself since my 486 in 1994, just this is my first Ivy Bridge system, and I jumped over sandy bridge and upgraded directly from i7-920 x59 system to a Z77 Ivy Bridge system, and I've never heard of this "Lucid Virtu" thing on motherboards before.
> I chose this motherboard because it had everything I wanted and it was less than $200. Things I was looking for in my new system: Run two pci-express 3.0 video cards in Cross-fire (later I'll add a second 7770, not currently with this build) at at-least 8x8x on both. (lots of z77 motherboards I looked at ran one at 8x and the other at 4x). It has a 3rd pci-e slot @ PCI-e 2.1 for a nvidia video card for phys-X later (even if it is 4x speed), and it has a PCI slot, an optical audio port on board, and has onboard intel ICH10R raid.
> So... it looked like everything I wanted and it wasn't expensive (I paid $149.99 for it on newegg), so, win. I just need to figure out all the quirks on it. I've only owned it about a month now.


with due respect
install drivers from cd = noob

download everything from giga z77x website or http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html

activate igp in bios
install intel gpu drivers
install virtu mvp from website
conect monitor to gpu amd
play games


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> with due respect
> install drivers from cd = noob
> download everything from giga z77x website or http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html
> activate igp in bios
> install intel gpu drivers
> install virtu mvp from website
> conect monitor to gpu amd
> play games


Actually before just installing from the DVD blindly, I have spent time and went to look around the internet. I've compared what's on the website(s) to what's on the DVD for each and every driver, and NONE of them are updated yet. Neither are there any new drivers on the intel website, nor the via or realtek websites. So installing from the DVD right now = fine. I did however update the bios from gigabyte website.

That's very rude to just stamp someone a noob like that, and not a very good way to get anyone to come back to this website for assistance in the future.

And I would like some information on exactly what Virtu MVP -ACTUALLY DOES- before installing it please. Does it increase frame rates in games? or does it do something else that I may not even need/want at all? I have the onboard graphics disabled currently because of my AMD video card. Could someone tell me what possible benefit (if any at all) having the onboard intel graphics enabled while using my dedicated video card would be?


----------



## RONCAL

I tried that and still no video to my monitor from the card. I can tell that my computer booted into Win7 because of the OS sound but I can't tell visually because the onchip graphics is now disabled - I had moved the HDMI cable over to the board and the monitor says 'no signal.' I had to clear my CMOS so that the onchip graphics would be enabled again. I also tried changing the 'init display first' from auto to PEG while disabling the onchip graphics and still nothing from the card - the monitor states that there is no signal detected. I should state that I know the new card is getting power because both fans are running on it. Here's my system layout if it helps:

COMPUTER CASE - Antec P183 Super Advanced Mid Tower Shell Case
MOTHERBOARD - Gigabyte Intel Z77 LGA1155 CrossFireX/SLI Dual Lan Dual UEFI BIOS with Bluetooth 4.0/Wi-Fi Expansion Card GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB WiFi
CPU - Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz 6 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80637I73770K
CPU HEATSINK/FAN - Intel Retail Heatsink/fan
MEMORY - G.SKILL Trident 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model (F3-16000CL9T-6GBTD)
HARD DRIVE -

OCZ Technology 240 GB Vertex 3 SATA III 6.0 Gb/s 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive VTX3-25SAT3-240G - Primary boot drive
Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive (ST3500320AS)
Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 400GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive (ST3400633AS)

VIDEO CARD - GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 660 Ti WINDFORCE 2X OC Edition 2048MB GDDR5 PCI-Express 3.0 2x DVI / HDMI / DP SLI Ready Graphics Card Graphics Cards GV-N66TOC-2GD
POWER SUPPLY - Antec High Current Gamer HCG-620M, 80 PLUS BRONZE, 620 Watt Modular Power Supply
DVD-ROM DRIVE - LG Black Blu-ray/HD DVD-ROM & 16X DVD±R DVD Burner SATA Model (GGC-H20L)
MOUSE - Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball
KEYBOARD - Logitech K800 Wireless Lighted
WIRELESS NETWORK CARD - None, connected via network cable to Netgear wireless router
OPERATING SYSTEM - Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64


----------



## irfy

Lucid mvp helps the tearing effect you get once your framerates go over your screens refresh rate. Its supposed to give you a smoother gaming experience. Also you get some nice benchmark scores in 3Dmark 11 and Vantage. Its worth a try see if you can get the latest version to work
http://www.lucidlogix.com/driverdownloads-mvp.shtml


----------



## irfy

Which bios version on ur mobo?


----------



## irfy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RONCAL*
> 
> I tried that and still no video to my monitor from the card. I can tell that my computer booted into Win7 because of the OS sound but I can't tell visually because the onchip graphics is now disabled - I had moved the HDMI cable over to the board and the monitor says 'no signal.' I had to clear my CMOS so that the onchip graphics would be enabled again. I also tried changing the 'init display first' from auto to PEG while disabling the onchip graphics and still nothing from the card - the monitor states that there is no signal detected. I should state that I know the new card is getting power because both fans are running on it. Here's my system layout if it helps:
> COMPUTER CASE - Antec P183 Super Advanced Mid Tower Shell Case
> MOTHERBOARD - Gigabyte Intel Z77 LGA1155 CrossFireX/SLI Dual Lan Dual UEFI BIOS with Bluetooth 4.0/Wi-Fi Expansion Card GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB WiFi
> CPU - Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz 6 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80637I73770K
> CPU HEATSINK/FAN - Intel Retail Heatsink/fan
> MEMORY - G.SKILL Trident 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model (F3-16000CL9T-6GBTD)
> HARD DRIVE -
> OCZ Technology 240 GB Vertex 3 SATA III 6.0 Gb/s 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive VTX3-25SAT3-240G - Primary boot drive
> Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive (ST3500320AS)
> Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 400GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive (ST3400633AS)
> 
> VIDEO CARD - GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 660 Ti WINDFORCE 2X OC Edition 2048MB GDDR5 PCI-Express 3.0 2x DVI / HDMI / DP SLI Ready Graphics Card Graphics Cards GV-N66TOC-2GD
> POWER SUPPLY - Antec High Current Gamer HCG-620M, 80 PLUS BRONZE, 620 Watt Modular Power Supply
> DVD-ROM DRIVE - LG Black Blu-ray/HD DVD-ROM & 16X DVD±R DVD Burner SATA Model (GGC-H20L)
> MOUSE - Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball
> KEYBOARD - Logitech K800 Wireless Lighted
> WIRELESS NETWORK CARD - None, connected via network cable to Netgear wireless router
> OPERATING SYSTEM - Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64


Which bios version you using on mobo? also could you check does your board have the purple capacitors on it, & no gap between the memory slots. Its possible your 660ti is so new and your bios dont quite recognise it yet. It should detect the vga card even if left on auto in bios or PEG. Just dont plug in 2 cables use only 1 x HDMI or DVI


----------



## beetlespin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> with due respect
> install drivers from cd = noob
> download everything from giga z77x website or http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html
> activate igp in bios
> install intel gpu drivers
> install virtu mvp from website
> conect monitor to gpu amd
> play games


Just because site has update drivers don't always mean they are better. I agree that your statment was very rude and noobish.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you tell me the temperature of your UD5H motherboard measured with aida64? thank you!


39C


----------



## irfy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you tell me the temperature of your UD5H motherboard measured with aida64? thank you!


36c my side panel is open tho also when i run occt it just stays on 36c no increase (wierd)


----------



## Rob E.

(deleted) sorry


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AP514*
> 
> OK got a few TEMP Questions......
> i5 3750K
> *GA-Z77X-D3H*
> MSI-Twin Frozr 4GB O/C
> EZ tune 6 says my CPU cores are at 23c and Real Temp GT show it at 30c. Which is the better program . Also is there a better temp Program out there for my Board ? Just want to have good readings before I Start O/C. Im a bit New at O/C..do not want to Fry my New Rig...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also My PCH Shows 50c at IDLE and about 61c during GAME'n. Should I be worried ?
> Thanks in advance
> AP514


(IMHO) Your temps are alright, not bad; You shouldn't be worried. EZ Tune6 reads your cpu temp from the ITE IT8728F sensor chip... but that's not your core temps. Those will be on average quite a bit higher at idle or load.

Real Temp or Core Temp will give you more accurate readings... I use HWiNFO... and setup a Gadget on my Win7 desktop to monitor the general state of the system. Here's a pic of the gadget (cut from the desktop), and the 2nd pic showing the gadget expanded - more extensive info, in a scrollable window.





Rob


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> And I would like some information on exactly what Virtu MVP -ACTUALLY DOES- before installing it please. Does it increase frame rates in games? or does it do something else that I may not even need/want at all? I have the onboard graphics disabled currently because of my AMD video card. Could someone tell me what possible benefit (if any at all) having the onboard intel graphics enabled while using my dedicated video card would be?


Virtu MVP claims to do several things (http://www.lucidlogix.com/product-virtu-mvp.shtml):

GPU Virtualisation - Primarily it allows you to switch between the intergrated GPU in your 3770k and discrete GPU on your GTX660Ti depending on which is best for the specific task.
Virtual VSync - If you have a 60Hz monitor it keeps your GPU synced to 60fps to avoid tearing.
Hyperperformance - In theory it improves performance by utilising the iGPU in conjunction with the dGPU.
In reality:

GPU Virtualisation - It will only use your GTX660Ti for 3D games. Everything else will run on the iGPU in your 3770k. You will use more power as both the iGPU and dGPU will remain powered up. The GTX660Ti can run eveything fine, and if you're using MadVR and CUVID for video decoding then they run better on the GTX660Ti.
Virtual VSync - Your GTX660Ti can be configured to use Nvidia's adaptive vsync, so virtual vsync doesn't really offer any benefit.
Hyperperformance - The jury is still out as to whether this delivers any real world benefit. You may get a slightly higher benchmark score and 1-2 extra FPS. Some games don't work well with it and a lot of people have problems getting it stable (myself included).
My personal opinion is that you will experience no tangible benefits from installing Virtu MVP while experiencing more crashes and other problems. Don't bother installing it and just use your GTX660Ti for everything.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> don´t trust easytune
> don´t use it either
> i use coretemp, realtemp is nice too, also cpuid hardware monitor, and many others, easytune is the only one with wrong temps


ET6 display CPU temp and not Core temp.








All info from ET6 is 100% correct.


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kesawi*
> 
> Virtu MVP claims to do several things (http://www.lucidlogix.com/product-virtu-mvp.shtml):
> 
> GPU Virtualisation - Primarily it allows you to switch between the intergrated GPU in your 3770k and discrete GPU on your GTX660Ti depending on which is best for the specific task.
> Virtual VSync - If you have a 60Hz monitor it keeps your GPU synced to 60fps to avoid tearing.
> Hyperperformance - In theory it improves performance by utilising the iGPU in conjunction with the dGPU.
> In reality:
> 
> GPU Virtualisation - It will only use your GTX660Ti for 3D games. Everything else will run on the iGPU in your 3770k. You will use more power as both the iGPU and dGPU will remain powered up. The GTX660Ti can run eveything fine, and if you're using MadVR and CUVID for video decoding then they run better on the GTX660Ti.
> Virtual VSync - Your GTX660Ti can be configured to use Nvidia's adaptive vsync, so virtual vsync doesn't really offer any benefit.
> Hyperperformance - The jury is still out as to whether this delivers any real world benefit. You may get a slightly higher benchmark score and 1-2 extra FPS. Some games don't work well with it and a lot of people have problems getting it stable (myself included).
> My personal opinion is that you will experience no tangible benefits from installing Virtu MVP while experiencing more crashes and other problems. Don't bother installing it and just use your GTX660Ti for everything.


Thank you sir.. firstly for being the first person to actually provide correct information in response, and secondly for giving useful information.

I actually have a HD 7770 video card (Although it came overclocked from XFX), and I think given your response, I'll just go ahead and leave the video core(s) in the CPU disabled then, seeing as my system (now that I worked the kinks out of it) is rock solid stable. Introducing potential instability to an otherwise stable system is never a good idea.

The increased power usage you mentioned is a big negative for me, I designed this new build to be very power efficient and I'm already pleased with it. Gaming with my i5 @ 3500mhz and my overclocked HD 7770 and 4 mechanical hard drives = 205-215 watts draw @ outlet, @ 120vAC, which is amazingly awesome to me, and the cpu never gets above 40c even with 100% load on all 4 cores for hours.

Compared to the i7-920 computer I replaced this with, this motherboard with Ivy Bridge uses 1/4th less power, and 1/3 less heat, yet does exactly equal in 3d performance in games, so...


----------



## Sin0822

IMO you should use MVP, but don't use either of the VSync or Hyperformance features, instead just use GPU/iGPU switching, which will save power.


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> IMO you should use MVP, but don't use either of the VSync or Hyperformance features, instead just use GPU/iGPU switching, which will save power.


I've Tried the MVP software tonight and fiddled with it some, I don't like it. I see almost zero benefit in any game no matter what I do, and most of my favorite games have odd distortions, or flickering effects, and in general it doesn't seem to do anything, so I'll probably disable it tomorrow after sleep. The only thing MVP has done is cause windows7 to lock up when I opened GPU-Z...


----------



## Sin0822

yea i mean use it for its Virtu GPU switching, that way your computer will use the integrated GPU for normal tasks, and then turn on your dGPU for gaming.


----------



## fasty

Wow, I see Z77X-UD5H BIOS version F14 released on Gigabyte own web site.

Don't think I saw this mentioned elsewhere in this thread, or did I blink and miss it?
Anyone tried this yet?

-Steve


----------



## stasio

Yea,new BIOS is out.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Yea,new BIOS is out.


I think Gigabyte may have posted the wrong file. When f14 is extracted it has a flash for f4, not f14. And the file is dated all the way back to march.


----------



## stasio

Use "Europe" server.
or from TT forum.


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I think Gigabyte may have posted the wrong file. When f14 is extracted it has a flash for f4, not f14. And the file is dated all the way back to march.


From USA download; The dates look appropriate to me. F13 on 8/20/12, and F14 on 8/22/12 (website dates it 8/23). fwiw...


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob E.*
> 
> From USA download; The dates look appropriate to me. F13 on 8/20/12, and F14 on 8/22/12 (website dates it 8/23). fwiw...


You're not understanding me. Download the file (f14) on US server from GB > extract > shows f4 bios, not f14, dated March 9th, 2012. I know what the page says, but the actual file is incorrect. The is what the file looks like once extracted.

Gonna download from TT.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> You're not understanding me. Download the file (f14) on US server from GB > extract > shows f4 bios, not f14, dated March 9th, 2012. I know what the page says, but the actual file is incorrect. The is what the file looks like once extracted.
> Gonna download from TT.


Mine is fine. Got from Asia server.


Am I the only one who gets very slow speeds from their USA server?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Mine is fine. Got from Asia server.
> 
> Am I the only one who gets very slow speeds from their USA server?


Yup, Asia server has the correct file. I guess they uploaded the wrong one to the US server. And the US server is slow for me too. Gigabytes website in general is quite slow for me.


----------



## fasty

This new F14 is the first new BIOS I've flashed since F8, so there seem to be a few new features for me.
Anyway, sleep still seems to work on this one for me, so I'm happy so far.
Anyone noticed anything interesting with it?


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasty*
> 
> This new F14 is the first new BIOS I've flashed since F8, so there seem to be a few new features for me.
> Anyway, sleep still seems to work on this one for me, so I'm happy so far.
> Anyone noticed anything interesting with it?


I was about to ask the same question. Should gigabyte do a change log for BIOS's?


----------



## Sin0822

F14 should have the sammy fix.


----------



## ClintLeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Gigabyte Z77 boards have no boot cycle issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


They do.

My 1st board was a z77 d3h with a 2120 and a 7750 using hdmi to a Sony amp then the TV.Every time i had to re start i had to get up and pull the hdmi cable out and on the 1st beep put it back otherwise it would keep re booting,didn't matter if i was using igp or gpu.
They replaced my board with a z77 ud3h and same story,bought a second 7750 for xfire same thing,didn't matter which card i plugged in.
Later i upgraded the cpu to a 3570 still did it.
I've upgraded the ram from 1600 xms3 to Vengance 1866,still did it.
Just replaced the 7750's with 7770's and same story,all this with bios f11.

Today i put on F17 and it wont boot up,just get one long beep and 2 or 3 short beeps and when i finally did get it to work,i have to remove the cable again to boot.
Downgraded to F16 and it finally booted without me having to get up but i HAVE to have the boot logo enabled to post with F16.,with it disabled it starts up and just sits there doing nothing.

If someone knows a setting that i've missed that will fix this,i will greatly appreciate it.

I bought the Z77 D3H board to replace the H67-USB3 board that i had and now i wish i didn't.


----------



## Sin0822

Your CPU is the issue.

It is a sandy bridge i3 2120? Right? Earlier on some sandy bridge CPUs had this issue, and then it just required an updated microcode in the BIOS and it fixed the issue, however it depends on which CPU u use, so when i reported for the 2600K it still happened for the 2500K and thus i needed to report that.

Also, your PSu can also be the issue.

But i will report it is your CPU and you are using a UD3H, right?


----------



## ClintLeo

I'm now running a I'm 3570k because I also thought it was the CPU,doesn't matter if I use hd2000 or hd4000.I doubt it's the psu because it doesn't matter if i have one gpu or two gpu's or even none. I should be able to borrow a psu this weekend to test because it is the last thing that I could replace that might cause this problem.


----------



## Sin0822

yea the problem still persists with the 3570K? Because that just sounds very odd.


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> You're not understanding me. Download the file (f14) on US server from GB > extract > shows f4 bios, not f14, dated March 9th, 2012. I know what the page says, but the actual file is incorrect. The is what the file looks like once extracted.
> Gonna download from TT....


jay, I understood you perfectly well. I wasn't taking issue, only commenting on my own experience - which didn't mirror yours. I d/l'ed F14 from the USA site, and it extracted and installed just fine. Sorry you had the issue ...and thanks for the alert! I double-checked the dates & filenames because of your heads-up. (Maybe Gigabyte corrected it in the interim) I had no problems, and glad you worked it out.

Rob


----------



## zeropluszero

Anyone doing guides on overclocking with the UP5 board?


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> Thank you sir.. firstly for being the first person to actually provide correct information in response, and secondly for giving useful information.
> I actually have a HD 7770 video card (Although it came overclocked from XFX), and I think given your response, I'll just go ahead and leave the video core(s) in the CPU disabled then, seeing as my system (now that I worked the kinks out of it) is rock solid stable. Introducing potential instability to an otherwise stable system is never a good idea.


Glad to be of assistance. My reference to the GTX660Ti was in relation to another post on the topic. If you disable the video cores in the CPU, you will need to reset the bios settings if you ever need to boot without a discrete GPU installed or if it fails.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> IMO you should use MVP, but don't use either of the VSync or Hyperformance features, instead just use GPU/iGPU switching, which will save power.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea i mean use it for its Virtu GPU switching, that way your computer will use the integrated GPU for normal tasks, and then turn on your dGPU for gaming.


MVP works in either I-mode (your monitor is plugged into the integrated GPU) or D-mode (your monitor is plugged into the discrete GPU). There is a slight performance hit in I-mode and so most will run it in D-mode. This means the dGPU will still need to be powered. Unfortunately the discussion and reviews of MVP have focused on performance aspects rather than power consumption. I did measure power consumption when I originally put my system together and there was no real discernible difference between using MVP and not using it. There is an assessment at http://www.behardware.com/articles/858-2/lucidlogix-virtu-mvp-in-action.html which finds that the power consumption is pretty much the same except for one test which showed a reduction for one of the tested cards. I'd suggest results are going to be different across hardware.


----------



## DaClownie

So, standard question with a new BIOS release... any reason I should be going from F6 BIOS to F14 on my UD5H?... I feel like I'm getting WAY behind on BIOSes now. lol


----------



## neoprimal

Like an idiot I watched the Lucid Virtu MVP video which clearly states that it is Windows 8 compatible and proceeded to install it.

Suffice it to say, the latest version as of today (2.1.115) is not currently compatible and will corrupt your Windows 8 install. I had to restore but my last point was apparently a week and about 5 software installs back so I'm not a happy camper.


----------



## ClintLeo

For those guy's wanting to run MVP,can you do a test.
I want to check something.I was testing it out a couple weeks back to see if i want to use it.
I was running it in d-mode without virtual v-sync enabled.
With mvp off and the single Sapphire OC card running at it's standard clocks i was able to get 82,4 frames from COD MW2 @ full detail.
If i overclocked the card to 1150(1150 standard) core and 1550(1250 standard) memory i was getting 93.7 fps from same game and scene.
When using d mode MVP and OCing the card with the Power control setting to it's max of 50% i got an average of 200 fps.
With 2 7770's i get an average of 150 fps but the lowest fps is higher.

single 7770.jpg 22k .jpg file


OC'ed 7770.jpg 25k .jpg file


xfire 7770 .jpg 25k .jpg file


MVP and OC'ed 7770.png 6k .png file


----------



## mandrix

Getting back to the code display showing 03 instead of A0 after booting, no matter whether it's on main or backup bios I always get 03 after resuming from sleep.
I had to wait until I'd tested on both bios before I was sure.


----------



## sixor

my test with virtu

1440*900 res


----------



## covar

Ok, unless I'm missing something obvious it looks like the F14 BIOS is ignoring the BCLK setting. Whatever I set mine manually to (102 at the moment) it's just running at 100.1


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *covar*
> 
> Ok, unless I'm missing something obvious it looks like the F14 BIOS is ignoring the BCLK setting. Whatever I set mine manually to (102 at the moment) it's just running at 100.1


I noticed that with my UD3H, sadly we can't overclock with the BCLK anymore, new motherboards removed that 'feature', so just leave it at 100.1


----------



## covar

Previous F8 BIOS was fine. I know in one of the beta BIOS BCLK got disabled too, possibly it's an oversight.


----------



## jayhay

Running f14 with a 2500k at 103 bclock. Everything fine here so far.


----------



## covar

Tried reflashing, still the same, stuck at 100.1 BCLK. Annoying but stable apart from that.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Zeroplus Zero:
"Anyone doing guides on overclocking with the UP5 board?"

Perhaps you should ask it here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1285652/official-z77x-up5-up4-d3h-th-owners-club-discussion-and-info-thread


----------



## zeropluszero

Thanks sin. Didn't see that link there.


----------



## R35ervoirFox

F17 bios has the mouse bug where it only moves vertically in bios. (GA-Z77X-UD3H)

Bugs:

1. Mouse only moves up or down with cm spawn mouse. - F13 bios it worked fine, earlier bios's also had this problem.
2. Num lock does not work in bios with G15 v1 keyboard. - Pretty sure this worked fine in F13 and previous
3. iirc it used to boot from my "volume 0" raid 0 array, now I have to select windows boot loader or I get mbr missing, press any key message.


----------



## pakostel

can anyone tell me what is changed in F14 revision of the BIOS ??. I have the F7and i want to know if it worth upgrading .


----------



## pakostel

what is new on the F14 revision vs F7 ?


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pakostel*
> 
> what is new on the F14 revision vs F7 ?


http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#bios


----------



## Kaarosu

Hi fellas, hope i can find someone in here with the UD5H + 3570K
Im asking here cuz i didnt find much help in the "overclock section"

This is my first time trying to OC my new cpu, all im hoping for is a 24/7 oc
of 4.2 - 4.4, im not gonna OC the ram or anything else, just the CPU

I will be playing with vcore volt/clock ration, starting from 3.5mhz upping .1mhz all the way to 4.1 with stock 1.150volt or until it fails intel burn/prime95 ... But im lost with the following stuff

I've done a bit of research and found the following important to disable/enable/auto ... please help me

Turbo boost................................disable
C1E...........................................
C3/C6........................................
CPU EIST....................................
Thermal Monitor...........................
PWM Phase Control.......................
Vcore Voltage Response.................fast?
Vcore Loadline Calibration...............
Vcore Current Protection................


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R35ervoirFox*
> 
> F17 bios has the mouse bug where it only moves vertically in bios. (GA-Z77X-UD3H)
> Bugs:
> 1. Mouse only moves up or down with cm spawn mouse. - F13 bios it worked fine, earlier bios's also had this problem.
> 2. Num lock does not work in bios with G15 v1 keyboard. - Pretty sure this worked fine in F13 and previous
> 3. iirc it used to boot from my "volume 0" raid 0 array, now *I have to select windows boot loader or I get mbr missing, press any key message.*


I used to get that too. Mainly when I had my USB 3 flash drive in the back of my motherboard. Though I though it was just my 8 year old HDD causing it.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaarosu*
> 
> Hi fellas, hope i can find someone in here with the UD5H + 3570K
> Im asking here cuz i didnt find much help in the "overclock section"
> This is my first time trying to OC my new cpu, all im hoping for is a 24/7 oc
> of 4.2 - 4.4, im not gonna OC the ram or anything else, just the CPU
> I will be playing with vcore volt/clock ration, starting from 3.5mhz upping .1mhz all the way to 4.1 with stock 1.150volt or until it fails intel burn/prime95 ... But im lost with the following stuff
> I've done a bit of research and found the following important to disable/enable/auto ... please help me
> Turbo boost................................disable
> C1E...........................................
> C3/C6........................................
> CPU EIST....................................
> Thermal Monitor...........................
> PWM Phase Control.......................
> Vcore Voltage Response.................fast?
> Vcore Loadline Calibration...............
> Vcore Current Protection................
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Leave all that on Auto except Vcore voltage response set to Fast. I have no idea how far you can go with a 3570K without increasing vcore but you shouldn't need to change any of the power saving options from Auto.


----------



## covar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Leave all that on Auto except Vcore voltage response set to Fast. I have no idea how far you can go with a 3570K without increasing vcore but you shouldn't need to change any of the power saving options from Auto.


Getting to 4.2ghz on 3570K is easy unless you have a very bad CPU, leave everything on Auto and just set multi to 42. If I were you start at 41 multi, everything on Auto and go from there, up the multi by one at a time until stability fails, then fine-tune using voltage to the point where you're comfortable with the speed/heat tradeoff..


----------



## covar

Ok, seems other people are seeing some odd bugs with F14 for the UD5H too. Back to F8 for me.


----------



## Kaarosu

how come many people are disabling C1E, TURBO BOOST, C3C6, CPU EIST?
and i see 50% people modiy THERMAL MONITOR, PWM PHASE CONTROL, VCORE VOLTAGE RESPONSE, VCORE LOADLINE CALIBRATION, VCORE CURRENT PROTECTION.
while the other 50% leaves it on auto


----------



## R35ervoirFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pakostel*
> 
> can anyone tell me what is changed in F14 revision of the BIOS ??. I have the F7and i want to know if it worth upgrading .


Here is some simply advice, if you have no problems, then you don't flash another bios.


----------



## clerick

Hmm i seem to be getting watchdog bsods with win8 (and with ntkrnlmp.exe being the cause). Mobo/ram is brand new, I wonder whats if its the OS or the hardware...


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaarosu*
> 
> Hi fellas, hope i can find someone in here with the UD5H + 3570K
> Im asking here cuz i didnt find much help in the "overclock section"
> This is my first time trying to OC my new cpu, all im hoping for is a 24/7 oc
> of 4.2 - 4.4, im not gonna OC the ram or anything else, just the CPU
> I will be playing with vcore volt/clock ration, starting from 3.5mhz upping .1mhz all the way to 4.1 with stock 1.150volt or until it fails intel burn/prime95 ... But im lost with the following stuff
> I've done a bit of research and found the following important to disable/enable/auto ... please help me
> Turbo boost................................disable
> C1E...........................................
> C3/C6........................................
> CPU EIST....................................
> Thermal Monitor...........................
> PWM Phase Control.......................
> Vcore Voltage Response.................fast?
> Vcore Loadline Calibration...............
> Vcore Current Protection................


The sweet-spot on my 3570K is multiplier *44* and Vcore offset *+0.04*, everything else on Auto.

//


----------



## kithylin

Well, After like 2 hours of screwing with it I finally got my Z77X-UD3H to accept the new F17, quite a number of things that I was experiencing were fixed for me, I'll itemize them below.

1.) BIOS Splash Screen: Previously with F11 bios, and F8 before that (that it shipped with originally), I never could enter bios by hitting the DEL key, it just did not work, bios would continue booting as if I'd never pressed it. I always had to hit F9 for system info, then mash the DEL button furiously imedetely after clicking the "OK" button, to get into bios. NOW With F17, DEL works on the Splash Screen and BIOS comes up.

2.) Ram: My ram I'm trying to use in my Z77-UD3H is 8gb (2 x 4 GB) Kingston Hyper-X DDR3-1600 1.65v ram. (I know this system is supposed to use 1.5v ram). In the past before today, with F8 bios and F11 bios, the XMP Profile would not work. If I selected XMP for 1600mhz memory and saved and exited bios, system would attempt to boot, then power off, then come up saying OverClocking Failed. NOW With F17, I selected XMP, rebooted, and it's running windows and everything is awesome.

The only other thing I noticed different is while in BIOS, I saw something about "Improve Legacy Benchmarking." to improve results with Legacy Benchmarking Programs. I'm not sure why we'd concern ourselves with that, but I have it on anyway. Sometimes I like running older benchmarks like 3dmark 2003 just to see how my systems do with older games, should I ever want to play them.

So far, F17 seems awesome!


----------



## coolhandluke41

rockin some generic Samsung (you have to preset your timings in bios in order to post ) *F14*


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> rockin some generic Samsung (you have to preset your timings in bios in order to post ) *F14*


Tweaking all those hundred or so memory settings is tiresome and annoying... I just set it to XMP @ 1600mhz memory and go and enjoy it, not sure what timings it runs but it gets 20k MB/sec in Sandra, that's more than enough for everything I do (3d games), so... it's fine.


----------



## BabyBurke

Hey guys, I'd figure I would post this in here. I just received my ud3h and one of the capacitors near the cpu vrm broke off the two pins that are still currently sticking up from the board. Any suggestions? Should I find the same cap and re-solder it to the board or should I go the RMA route? Thanks.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabyBurke*
> 
> Hey guys, I'd figure I would post this in here. I just received my ud3h and one of the capacitors near the cpu vrm broke off the two pins that are still currently sticking up from the board. Any suggestions? Should I find the same cap and re-solder it to the board or should I go the RMA route? Thanks.


Unfortunately, RMA.
Keep in mind that if you rework it yourself, you will invalidate any warranty.


----------



## DaClownie

If you broke the cap, you shouldn't be RMAing... you should be contacting Gigabyte about doign a repair that would keep your warranty intact. By RMAing on a product that you damaged you are increasing the costs for all of us honest customers.

Thanks.


----------



## fasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> If you broke the cap, you shouldn't be RMAing... you should be contacting Gigabyte about doign a repair that would keep your warranty intact. By RMAing on a product that you damaged you are increasing the costs for all of us honest customers.
> Thanks.


Sorry, yes, if you broke the cap, I agree, RMA is not appropriate.


----------



## sl4y3r

Hi Guys,

Im running a 3570k on a UD3H , My CPU in windows shows 1596Mhz and goes to 3800Mhz when I load somethins...What feature should I disable for it to be at 3.40 constant? Im on F9 BIOS btw, is an update to F17 worthwhile?

Also is @BIOS ok to flash with ?Many people say to never use that ..So please advise


----------



## ClintLeo

I wouldn't worry about disabling it,it's only Intels turbo boost.When it downclocks to 1600 it's just a power saving feature because it doesn't need max.
I only update my bios through the bios.

If you want to disable it you need to go into the bios and cpu features and disable turbo boost.


----------



## kithylin

well, second day on the F17 bios on my Z77X-UD3H, and while it was great all last night playing games, today I wake up and doing simple tasks like browsing youtube, making an html page in ms office and trying to download a new game via STEAM the system is constantly crashing with bluescreens and nothing will run right. And yes I've loaded system defaults in bios after the update, and set all the settings back to how they were with the previous F11 bios. I guess it's back to F11 for me later today... I have another system project I'm working on first. But I just thought I'd write in.. F17 on UD3H, unstable with the Core-i5 3450S (Ivy Bridge). I had no stability problems for a month on F11 btw, that was the only system / hardware change: the new bios update.

EDIT: Are these motherboards some how designed to prevent us from flashing to an older bios version? I've downloaded this F11 bios image like 5 times and used two different flash drives and a USB hard drive, and it keeps coming up as "Invalid Image" when trying to use Q-Flash in bios. Does anyone have any idea what gives?


----------



## clerick

Well this mobo is great so far but my god the PWM fan support is abysmal. I actually had to buy a fan controller for the first time in my life.


----------



## ClintLeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> .
> EDIT: Are these motherboards some how designed to prevent us from flashing to an older bios version? I've downloaded this F11 bios image like 5 times and used two different flash drives and a USB hard drive, and it keeps coming up as "Invalid Image" when trying to use Q-Flash in bios. Does anyone have any idea what gives?


You should be able to,i flashed back to f7 when i was trying something.


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClintLeo*
> 
> You should be able to,i flashed back to f7 when i was trying something.


I finally got it to work, apparently Q-flash won't read bios images stored on a NTFS-Formatted flash/usb-hard drive / drive, had to reformat my flash drive FAT32 and it worked.

Also apparently the blue-screens I had before from F17 was not entirely related to the new bios image... one of my 4 hard raid'd hard drives was dying and is now dead, so...


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sl4y3r*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> Im running a 3570k on a UD3H , My CPU in windows shows 1596Mhz and goes to 3800Mhz when I load somethins...What feature should I disable for it to be at 3.40 constant? Im on F9 BIOS btw, is an update to F17 worthwhile?
> Also is @BIOS ok to flash with ?Many people say to never use that ..So please advise


Disabling Turbo Boost will keep your CPU @ 3.40GHz, but I'd leave it be... If you do want to turn-off the down-clocking feature, and see the CPU running at full speed... disable the EIST function, but it's a nice power saving feature.

fwiw... @BIOS has always worked fine for me.


----------



## coolhandluke41

don't know if this is because of new bios but i have no problem clocking Samsung's on this board even this 23$ per stick generics


----------



## sl4y3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob E.*
> 
> Disabling Turbo Boost will keep your CPU @ 3.40GHz, but I'd leave it be... If you do want to turn-off the down-clocking feature, and see the CPU running at full speed... disable the EIST function, but it's a nice power saving feature.
> fwiw... @BIOS has always worked fine for me.


Hey thanks for the reply, I wanted to keep Turbo to 3.8 on but stop the downclocking, but I guess I won't since it works. But thanks for telling me what to look out for if I ever wanted to turn it off.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> don't know if this is because of new bios but i have no problem clocking Samsung's on this board even this 23$ per stick generics


are those the full size PCb ones or the black ones with tiny PCBs?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> Well this mobo is great so far but my god the PWM fan support is abysmal. I actually had to buy a fan controller for the first time in my life.


I totally agree dude. Awesome board, poor fan control options. Fortunately for me, my fans are such a low rpm, you can't hear 'em anyways


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> Well this mobo is great so far but my god the PWM fan support is abysmal. I actually had to buy a fan controller for the first time in my life.
> 
> 
> 
> I totally agree dude. Awesome board, poor fan control options. Fortunately for me, my fans are such a low rpm, you can't hear 'em anyways
Click to expand...

Adding to this, I found even the latest August 2012 build of Easy Tune 6 to be a horrible application that crashes constantly and fails to save fan settings (the graph needs to be re-configured each time I restart). Gigabyte are arrogantly lazy in their app development. I had gone the 100% PWM 4-pin fan route, probably just because I could (this is one of the few motherboards that facilitates PWM on all System fans, not just the CPU one). Not worth it because of the horrible PWM management that sends the fans into high gear almost always.

I don't think a fan controller would help much, would it? You still end up manually fiddling knobs, right?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> are those the full size PCb ones or the black ones with tiny PCBs?


yes-full size

https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=D3-4G133S1#

http://www.overclock.net/t/1268061/ocn-ram-addict-club-gallery/50#post_18057544

you just have to set your timings in bios before you boot (no XMP)


----------



## bluestr

I'm having a terrible experience with mine. My board doesn't detect my 560 Ti. I am 110% sure it's the board. The graphics card has worked perfectly fine on my old AMD platform (M5A97 Pro). Only on-board graphics is working on this.
I tried changing all the relevant settings in the bios with no luck.

Z77X-D3H, F15 bios.

Running 2500K alongside it.


----------



## nickt1862

Deleted content due to no response.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Adding to this, I found even the latest August 2012 build of Easy Tune 6 to be a horrible application that crashes constantly and fails to save fan settings (the graph needs to be re-configured each time I restart). Gigabyte are arrogantly lazy in their app development. I had gone the 100% PWM 4-pin fan route, probably just because I could (this is one of the few motherboards that facilitates PWM on all System fans, not just the CPU one). Not worth it because of the horrible PWM management that sends the fans into high gear almost always.
> I don't think a fan controller would help much, would it? You still end up manually fiddling knobs, right?


That depends.







Usually my rigs have fan controllers. I try to incorporate enough cooling capacity that it's mostly "set and forget" unless I'm stress testing or otherwise hitting the system pretty hard, and then turning a few knobs doesn't bother me.

Oh, and welcome to OCN.


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Adding to this, I found even the latest August 2012 build of Easy Tune 6 to be a horrible application that crashes constantly and fails to save fan settings (the graph needs to be re-configured each time I restart). Gigabyte are arrogantly lazy in their app development. I had gone the 100% PWM 4-pin fan route, probably just because I could (this is one of the few motherboards that facilitates PWM on all System fans, not just the CPU one). Not worth it because of the horrible PWM management that sends the fans into high gear almost always.
> I don't think a fan controller would help much, would it? You still end up manually fiddling knobs, right?


I just need one fan controller for one of my gtx480s since it has a spitfire cooler and a 140mm fan on it (could also put it on silver arrow but those fans stay at 6v most of the time).

Also: NEVER install the tune6 on windows 8. It completely crashes the OS and every time you boot it gets into windows, then everything comes to a crawl and eventually it locks up. I had to restore point to get rid of it.


----------



## Kaarosu

This is my final results: 4.4 Mhz

4.4 Mhz @ 1.225 Volts - stable - passed intelburn test and prime95

Everything is left on default setting except the following:

Turbo boost................................disable
C1E...........................................disa ble
C3/C6........................................disable
CPU EIST....................................disable
Vcore Loadline Calibration...............TURBO

idlle temp 35-39 c - a bit too high?

Intelburn test temp 81C (CPU usage: 100%. stress level = standard. Times to run: 10)
Prime95 temp 72ish (blend test. number of torture: 4)

for some reason second core (#2) always have higher temp than the rest
the highest i seen it go is 62C playing BF3 at ultra settings (GPU max temp was 73c) and i think thats the most intense stress i put in my cpu. cuz other than bf3, i just surf the net and youtube

what you guys think of my temp? but honestly, my cpu will never run at full load


----------



## Sin0822

yea it looks good. I mentioned to you that if you always want to run at that OC then you can disable those. But if you want the CPU to drop frequency and votlage when it is idle, then you can enable Turbo and EIST and then use OFFSET vcore, prob in the minus.


----------



## Kaarosu

.


----------



## Kaarosu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea it looks good. I mentioned to you that if you always want to run at that OC then you can disable those. But if you want the CPU to drop frequency and votlage when it is idle, then you can enable Turbo and EIST and then use OFFSET vcore, prob in the minus.


I do kinda want my freq to drop and voltage at idle

so how do i do this:

Turbo boost................................Enable (then set the all 4 turbo to 44mhz?)
C1E...........................................disa ble
C3/C6........................................disable
CPU EIST...................................enable

how about the vcore voltage? leave back in auto? or 1.225volts?

also, how do i set the offset volt? .. what is it called on the bios? i dont remember seen it?
also what should it be?

thanks Sino


----------



## DeXel

Offset is dynamic vcore. You set CPU Vcore to normal to allow it.
Then you find your VID with Coretemp and add or subtract voltage from that value using offset to get your system stable.


----------



## Rob E.

deleted


----------



## Matt-Matt

Just checking back here!
How are everyones boards running? I just flashed to F15 on my D3H and it works flawlessly now, I POST quicker now


----------



## dsiglin

Question about controlling the fan from the BIOS. I've got a case with three pin fan connectors (Cooler Master HAF 922) and I've read that three pin connectors can only be controlled from BIOS by changing the voltage. However, I don't see that as an option for system fans, just cpu fan. I'm running v5 of the BIOS. Is there a way to control fan speed from the BIOS? The top 240mm fan is running full blast. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Gregar Forte

bluestr,did you try your 560Ti in second PCIE slot?The x8 one...


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsiglin*
> 
> Question about controlling the fan from the BIOS. I've got a case with three pin fan connectors (Cooler Master HAF 922) and I've read that three pin connectors can only be controlled from BIOS by changing the voltage. However, I don't see that as an option for system fans, just cpu fan. I'm running v5 of the BIOS. Is there a way to control fan speed from the BIOS? The top 240mm fan is running full blast. Thanks in advance.


There is no way to control the fans. It's completely worthless. Get a fan controller, sorry man.


----------



## dsiglin

Alright, any recommendations?

I'm thinking I won't adjust the speed that often so if there is a bypass single fan controller that just sits between the three pin connector and the motherboard with a three step switch that would be fine with me. Though maybe having a control board on the front of the computer would be nice.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsiglin*
> 
> Question about controlling the fan from the BIOS. I've got a case with three pin fan connectors (Cooler Master HAF 922) and I've read that three pin connectors can only be controlled from BIOS by changing the voltage. However, I don't see that as an option for system fans, just cpu fan. I'm running v5 of the BIOS. Is there a way to control fan speed from the BIOS? The top 240mm fan is running full blast. Thanks in advance.


Well, although not stated explicitly in the user manual, SYS_FAN1 is controllable using a 3-pin fan from enabling in bios and using EasyTune6 application. I've not done it myself, but has been reported by other users to be effective. Could probably run two case fans off of that header without issue (with a y-splitter).


----------



## Sin0822

up7


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dsiglin*
> 
> Question about controlling the fan from the BIOS. I've got a case with three pin fan connectors (Cooler Master HAF 922) and I've read that three pin connectors can only be controlled from BIOS by changing the voltage. However, I don't see that as an option for system fans, just cpu fan. I'm running v5 of the BIOS. Is there a way to control fan speed from the BIOS? The top 240mm fan is running full blast. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> There is no way to control the fans. It's completely worthless. Get a fan controller, sorry man.
Click to expand...

This is an incorrect recommendation. Please use care when posting here, as people rely on the thread for authoritative advice.


----------



## dsiglin

I ordered one of these to try on the top fan (one which is spinning full blast 1200 or so RPM)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118217


----------



## cab2

System fans work, see my post here.

BUT... system fans (SYS_FAN1/2/3) modulate *only* up to *50% RPM*, then they're stuck there regardless of temps. Then when mobo temp gets above *50C* they all jump from 50% to 100% RPM, making unnecessary noise. SYS_FAN speed should ramp-up *gradually*, not all at once.

Gigabyte got their 50s mixed up, and I think they calibrated & tested with mobo *outside* the case, so the error was easy to overlook.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsiglin*
> 
> I ordered one of these to try on the top fan (one which is spinning full blast 1200 or so RPM)
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118217


You didn't say which header. If SYS_FAN2/3 you'll need a PWM fan for speed control. See my post above.


----------



## dsiglin

Forgive my ignorance but what does PWM stand for?


----------



## Sin0822

PWM stands for pulse width modulation. ON a motherboard there are two different things that both deal with that same acronym. PWM is a name of a chip that runs the VRM, it sends out square wave pulses which gives it its name to each phase to designate when and for how long each phase is to stay on.

Then there is a PWM scheme to fan headers, where PWM means 4-pin fan header with the ability for finer control through the same square wave, but in a totally different setting, they are not no way interrelated to the PWM for the VRM.


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> This is an incorrect recommendation. Please use care when posting here, as people rely on the thread for authoritative advice.


I stand by what I said. The bios fan control and inteltuner6 is just horrible hardware/software. Honestly if I knew about the fan problems before I considered this motherboard i would have never bought it but while searching people failed to mention the fan problem in reviews.


----------



## dsiglin

Well it would seem the problem is more with my case than with the motherboard. The mobo has 4pin connectors, it is my case that has three pin fans, so I'm not going to fault the mobo for that.

I'll get my fan controller soon and it was $6 so I'm not going to worry too much. If it works well I'll order two more for the other fans.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> I stand by what I said. The bios fan control and inteltuner6 is just horrible hardware/software. Honestly if I knew about the fan problems before I considered this motherboard i would have never bought it but while searching people failed to mention the fan problem in reviews.


You can stand by it all you want but you are still wrong. The OP had asked if there was a way to control a 3-pin case fan using a motherboard system fan header, and your reply was that it was not possible. You may not like the way it was implemented, but that does not make it non-existent.


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> You can stand by it all you want but you are still wrong. The OP had asked if there was a way to control a 3-pin case fan using a motherboard system fan header, and your reply was that it was not possible. You may not like the way it was implemented, but that does not make it non-existent.


It spins to a point but direct control of speed is not possible. I don't understand why you are defending shoddy design.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> This is an incorrect recommendation. Please use care when posting here, as people rely on the thread for authoritative advice.
> 
> 
> 
> I stand by what I said. The bios fan control and inteltuner6 is just horrible hardware/software. Honestly if I knew about the fan problems before I considered this motherboard i would have never bought it but while searching people failed to mention the fan problem in reviews.
Click to expand...

My last comment on this small argument: you wrote, simply, "There is no way to control the fans." I pointed out you are wrong, especially in the context (as mine) of using 4-pin fans that accept PWM control. Perhaps you meant to say that you don't like the implementation of fan speed control, to which you'll find much agreement here. That's a totally different thing, and your response to barkeater that "it spins to a point" again makes no sense. Probably best to stand down on this one so we can keep the discussion moving along productively here...


----------



## Sin0822

yea you have full control over the CPU fan header, and if you have PWM fans then you have control over the rest more or less. If you have 3-pin fans for the other headers then you might have issues with controlling them as well as if you had 4-pin fans.


----------



## BabyBurke

Hey guys, I'm using the z77x-ud3h with a i5 3570k. Are there any bios settings I should change to get the best performance? I'm currently using windows XP and I'm getting the same frames ingame I was with a e6750 core2duo and a 8800gt. Could it be possible that my OS is holding me back? I'll update to Win7 if that's the case.


----------



## arrow0309

No one knows if the E3-1245V2 or better the lower tdp model E3-1240V2 (without integrated graphics) can bump its multiplier from 34 to 41-43 like the "non K" i7 3770?
Would it be possible then to get (with a105 bclk) a 3770 like clock of 4.3Ghz full load oc (and up to 4.5Ghz running on two cores) with the UD5H?


----------



## s4e8

E3-12xx has NO multiplier bump , it's FULL locked.


----------



## dsiglin

Looked back into the BIOS, saw the PWM thing, so looks like it scales the voltage based on temperature in the case?

Might have to pick up two PWM fans then. Any particular brand you recommend for quiet fans? I have two 200x30mm fans I'll be replacing.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsiglin*
> 
> Looked back into the BIOS, saw the PWM thing, so looks like it scales the voltage based on temperature in the case?
> 
> Might have to pick up two PWM fans then. Any particular brand you recommend for quiet fans? I have two 200x30mm fans I'll be replacing.


The ONLY PWM-controllable, non-CPU fans at Micro Center were by Cooler Master, and I was really disappointed by how loud they are, FYI. And don't forget that while the UD5H motherboard is capable of controlling system fans via PWM, it does a poor job so far.


----------



## dsiglin

Sounds like my best option is buying something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Mesh-Controller-Watts-Channels/dp/B005C31G30/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1347049057&sr=1-2&keywords=fan+controller


----------



## Raiden911

whoa new bios.

I am still on f7, with no issues. maybe I should try f14 for no reason.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsiglin*
> 
> Sounds like my best option is buying something like this:
> http://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Mesh-Controller-Watts-Channels/dp/B005C31G30/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1347049057&sr=1-2&keywords=fan+controller


yes, that would give ultimate control. Large fans (200mm) can't get pwm and run relatively low rmp anyway. They really don't need controlled. 120 and 140 can get pwm and are a good option unless using them on water loop rad. In that case you would not want the mobo trying to control them as the SYS_FAN headers work off of the system temp, and not the cpu temp. Only the CPU_FAN header is controlled off the cpu temp. I have not seen anyone mention speedfan but I could use that to control my pwm fans and I could choose any temp sensor I wanted.


----------



## nickt1862

Wow!, so many issues with these mobos and I'm thinking of purchasing a UD5H-WB.

If I do is there anything for me to watch out for running an i7 2700k and DDR3 1333 ram at stock speeds??

Thanks!


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Wow!, so many issues with these mobos and I'm thinking of purchasing a UD5H-WB.
> 
> If I do is there anything for me to watch out for running an i7 2700k and DDR3 1333 ram at stock speeds??
> 
> Thanks!


What issues? Besides limited fan control there is none unless the board is defective.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Wow!, so many issues with these mobos and I'm thinking of purchasing a UD5H-WB.
> 
> If I do is there anything for me to watch out for running an i7 2700k and DDR3 1333 ram at stock speeds??
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What issues? Besides limited fan control there is none unless the board is defective.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your response.

Other than the processor cooler fan, I'm going to use a fan controller anyway.


----------



## Jong1

Hi guys. Noob here at Overclock.net







This seems the place to discuss Z77X-UD5H overclocking.

I'm not trying to do anything excessive here. Pretty happy with a good 100% stable 4.4Ghz overclock. But it must be stable not only running Prime etc. but also entering/returning from S3. This is a must for me.

I have it working perfectly using.

- 44 multiplier
- 1.26 vcore
- Turbo Vcore LLC
- XMP profile1 memory

...that's it.

Max core temp running Prime95 blend at those settings is 67C.

When I use this and fully load the CPUs CPU-Z reports 1.248 - 1.236 and my VID is 1.2360.

So I decided I wanted to stop using a constant vcore and instead use a DVID offset. Seems sensible to reduce power consumption at light load if I can. An offset of +0.04V gives me almost exactly the same load vcore, In fact it oscillates a little higher 1.248 - 1.260, which should work, I think, but it does not. The PC will boot and run Prime stably, but it almost always hangs on resume from S3. This is true for offset values from 0.01-0.05V.

I haven't even tried taking the offset higher because there seems little point in running a significantly higher voltage under load putting the CPU under real additional temp and voltage stress, just to save a few watts at low load!

Why is it not stable when the vcore varies under load, even though it is stable at a lower vcore than set when using DVID? Is there some other setting I also need to tweak to get DVID working? I did think of changing the Vcore LLC to extreme, but generally this seems to be thought not a good idea unless using subzero cooling.

Any thoughts gratefully received!


----------



## Jong1

...or it occurs to me maybe the vcore LLC setting should be relaxed to allow more droop. Any thoughts?


----------



## mandrix

Which cpu are you using? If SB then have you disabled cpu pll overvoltage? Supposedly that helps with SB cpu's.
(resuming from sleep)

You should fill out your rig specs.


----------



## Jong1

Sorry, that is a really stupid thing to miss out:

- 3770K
- GA-Z77X-UD5H (F14)
- Corsair TX 750W PSU
- Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB
- OCZ Vertex 4 512GB
- W7 Pro x64


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> Sorry, that is a really stupid thing to miss out ...


No not stupid, but he didn't mean in a post... he meant, in your (onsite) profile


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> ...or it occurs to me maybe the vcore LLC setting should be relaxed to allow more droop. Any thoughts?


don't use XMP see what happens.


----------



## Jong1

Rigs added


----------



## Jong1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> don't use XMP see what happens.


Worth a go, but works perfectly with XMP if core voltage is fixed.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> Hi guys. Noob here at Overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This seems the place to discuss Z77X-UD5H overclocking.
> I'm not trying to do anything excessive here. Pretty happy with a good 100% stable 4.4Ghz overclock. But it must be stable not only running Prime etc. but also entering/returning from S3. This is a must for me.
> I have it working perfectly using.
> - 44 multiplier
> - 1.26 vcore
> - Turbo Vcore LLC
> - XMP profile1 memory
> ...that's it.
> Max core temp running Prime95 blend at those settings is 67C.
> When I use this and fully load the CPUs CPU-Z reports 1.248 - 1.236 and my VID is 1.2360.
> So I decided I wanted to stop using a constant vcore and instead use a DVID offset. Seems sensible to reduce power consumption at light load if I can. An offset of +0.04V gives me almost exactly the same load vcore, In fact it oscillates a little higher 1.248 - 1.260, which should work, I think, but it does not. The PC will boot and run Prime stably, but it almost always hangs on resume from S3. This is true for offset values from 0.01-0.05V.
> I haven't even tried taking the offset higher because there seems little point in running a significantly higher voltage under load putting the CPU under real additional temp and voltage stress, just to save a few watts at low load!
> Why is it not stable when the vcore varies under load, even though it is stable at a lower vcore than set when using DVID? Is there some other setting I also need to tweak to get DVID working? I did think of changing the Vcore LLC to extreme, but generally this seems to be thought not a good idea unless using subzero cooling.
> Any thoughts gratefully received!


try => LLC "standard" (you offset value will be higher when you lower LLC







)
P.S. there is some info in my sig that you may find helpful


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> Hi guys. Noob here at Overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This seems the place to discuss Z77X-UD5H overclocking.
> I'm not trying to do anything excessive here. Pretty happy with a good 100% stable 4.4Ghz overclock. But it must be stable not only running Prime etc. but also entering/returning from S3. This is a must for me.
> I have it working perfectly using.
> - 44 multiplier
> - 1.26 vcore
> - Turbo Vcore LLC
> - XMP profile1 memory
> ...that's it.
> Max core temp running Prime95 blend at those settings is 67C.
> When I use this and fully load the CPUs CPU-Z reports 1.248 - 1.236 and my VID is 1.2360.
> So I decided I wanted to stop using a constant vcore and instead use a DVID offset. Seems sensible to reduce power consumption at light load if I can. An offset of +0.04V gives me almost exactly the same load vcore, In fact it oscillates a little higher 1.248 - 1.260, which should work, I think, but it does not. The PC will boot and run Prime stably, but it almost always hangs on resume from S3. This is true for offset values from 0.01-0.05V.
> I haven't even tried taking the offset higher because there seems little point in running a significantly higher voltage under load putting the CPU under real additional temp and voltage stress, just to save a few watts at low load!
> Why is it not stable when the vcore varies under load, even though it is stable at a lower vcore than set when using DVID? Is there some other setting I also need to tweak to get DVID working? I did think of changing the Vcore LLC to extreme, but generally this seems to be thought not a good idea unless using subzero cooling.
> Any thoughts gratefully received!


I have not had any luck trying to use either method of OC and sleep mode. Error usually occurs and I get a BSOD sometime during sleep. At stock, sleep works flawlessly. (shrug) I just don't use sleep mode as my system boots pretty fast anyhow (~5-8 sec)


----------



## ZealotKi11er

No matter what i try i cant get 3570K to even Boot @ 4.8Ghz. Had this problem with 2500K where it would not boot @ 5.0Ghz. Am i doing something wrong? Voltage should not really be the limiting factor since i gave it 1.4v and it does not have to be even close to 100% stable to boot to Windows.

Edit: I am also trying to same BIOS @ HDD but it says no drive found?


----------



## Jong1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> try => LLC "standard" (you offset value will be higher when you lower LLC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> P.S. there is some info in my sig that you may find helpful


I can't get it to reliably return from S3 by just varying offset and Vcore LLC. I have played with a wide variety of offsets - higher and lower than are probably needed for stable Prime - and _all_ the VCore LLC settings. but whatever LLC value I use it will eventually crash returning from sleep. Once using standard LLC I got it to return 3 times and I thought I might have found the magic combination, but on the fourth try it hung when returning.

Unless there is another setting to try I think i will just live with a constant Vcore.


----------



## mandrix

I really can't say why it has a problem returning from sleep. The only thing I can recommend is setting up the Power options in Windows and set "hibernate after" to "never" and possibly disallow any wake timers, etc.
Sleep is working fine for me, I've got in the habit of using it as I like the "instant on" aspect, plus I have a pretty full system with water pumps, lights, etc.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> Hi guys. Noob here at Overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This seems the place to discuss Z77X-UD5H overclocking.
> I'm not trying to do anything excessive here. Pretty happy with a good 100% stable 4.4Ghz overclock. But it must be stable not only running Prime etc. but also entering/returning from S3. This is a must for me.
> I have it working perfectly using.
> - 44 multiplier
> - 1.26 vcore
> - Turbo Vcore LLC
> - XMP profile1 memory
> ...that's it.
> Max core temp running Prime95 blend at those settings is 67C.
> When I use this and fully load the CPUs CPU-Z reports 1.248 - 1.236 and my VID is 1.2360.
> So I decided I wanted to stop using a constant vcore and instead use a DVID offset. Seems sensible to reduce power consumption at light load if I can. An offset of +0.04V gives me almost exactly the same load vcore, In fact it oscillates a little higher 1.248 - 1.260, which should work, I think, but it does not. The PC will boot and run Prime stably, but it almost always hangs on resume from S3. This is true for offset values from 0.01-0.05V.
> I haven't even tried taking the offset higher because there seems little point in running a significantly higher voltage under load putting the CPU under real additional temp and voltage stress, just to save a few watts at low load!
> Why is it not stable when the vcore varies under load, even though it is stable at a lower vcore than set when using DVID? Is there some other setting I also need to tweak to get DVID working? I did think of changing the Vcore LLC to extreme, but generally this seems to be thought not a good idea unless using subzero cooling.
> Any thoughts gratefully received!


You didn't say what cpu you're using. I posted my OC a couple of pages back. On my 3570K is multiplier 44 and Vcore offset +0.04, *everything else on Auto*, and I've no problem with S3.

Try Power Options > Advanced Power Settings, Allow hybrid Sleep = disabled


----------



## Jong1

Hi guys. In a later post, and also now in my rig info, I said th CPU is a 3770k.

Yeah, I tried setting all to auto except the multiplier. Still S3 is unreliable. I have also tried disabling hybrid sleep. In fact I did that for testing anyway - it allows me to swiftly sleep and resume multiple times to test for reliability.

For a few generations of Intel tech now I've come the the conclusion that S3 is a very good test of ultimate stability. Of course you still need to test with a high load tool, like Prime95, to check out your cooling and long term load stability, but S3 provides its own unique stress test, swinging up and down in load and hence CPU speed and voltage (unless these are fixed in the BIOS). Maybe it doesn't matter, if you don't use S3. But maybe it finds something that would otherwise show up as occasional random blue screens as day to day use causes the same load swings. IMO it is best to be in a position where it is impossible to crash the PC, not just avoid things, like S3, if they crash.

Anyway, a fixed voltage (1.26v) works. S3 solidly reliable. So I guess I'll stick with that. When I got my best results using an offset I was up to an offset of +0.12, so the voltage much of the time would have been up around 1.2+ anyway, even if it had worked!


----------



## npolite

Hi All,

Looking for some feedback on pairing one of these two boards with an i5 3570k from Microcenter.

I am not planning on using SLI nor overclocking. The boards look identical with the exception of the SATA and USB ports (that and no SLI on the cheaper board).

What conerns me about the GA-Z77-DS3H is that it has a smaller chipset heatsink and no heatsink to the left of the processor. Is this because there is no adjustable v-core and would cause those components to heat up more? Also I am currently using a N650-DS4 board with ALC888 audio, the GA-Z77-DS3H uses ALC887, is this significantly worse?

Any input would be appreciated.

GA-Z77-DS3H (Price match with newegg to 89.99 -$50 combo bundle) $39.99
http://www.microcenter.com/product/3...el_Motherboard

GA-Z77X-D3H (144.99 - $15 MIR - $50 combo bundle) $79.99
http://www.microcenter.com/product/3...el_Motherboard


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> Hi guys. In a later post, and also now in my rig info, I said th CPU is a 3770k.
> Yeah, I tried setting all to auto except the multiplier. Still S3 is unreliable. I have also tried disabling hybrid sleep. In fact I did that for testing anyway - it allows me to swiftly sleep and resume multiple times to test for reliability.
> For a few generations of Intel tech now I've come the the conclusion that S3 is a very good test of ultimate stability. Of course you still need to test with a high load tool, like Prime95, to check out your cooling and long term load stability, but S3 provides its own unique stress test, swinging up and down in load and hence CPU speed and voltage (unless these are fixed in the BIOS). Maybe it doesn't matter, if you don't use S3. But maybe it finds something that would otherwise show up as occasional random blue screens as day to day use causes the same load swings. IMO it is best to be in a position where it is impossible to crash the PC, not just avoid things, like S3, if they crash.
> Anyway, a fixed voltage (1.26v) works. S3 solidly reliable. So I guess I'll stick with that. When I got my best results using an offset I was up to an offset of +0.12, so the voltage much of the time would have been up around 1.2+ anyway, even if it had worked!


When you say the voltage would have been "up around 1.2+ anyway", what exactly do you mean? At idle? As long as you have all power saving enabled in the BIOS and using DVID offset, the voltage will drop down somewhere between oh, .8v - .9v. Both my UD5H rigs run a 24/7 x45 OC and I always use DVID offset and they function fine.


----------



## Jong1

Hmm. you could be right. I'm new to this offset thing. But I thought the offset was added to the VID. My VIDs are about 0.9 at idle and 1-1.1 as soon as anything happens. 1.236 at load. So ignoring idle I figured i would typically be getting 1.1+0.12 = 1.22 (little droop at that load). But maybe I'm working it out wrong and maybe I was exaggerating a little too. Anyway, I can't get sleep stable @4.4 using an offset, so I have little choice (unless I want to reduce my OC I guess!).

Good to hear S3 works fine for you at 4.5? It might be hard to compare with your water cooled system, but what are your BIOS settings?


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> Hi guys. Noob here at Overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This seems the place to discuss Z77X-UD5H overclocking.
> 
> I'm not trying to do anything excessive here. Pretty happy with a good 100% stable 4.4Ghz overclock. But it must be stable not only running Prime etc. but also entering/returning from S3. This is a must for me.
> 
> I have it working perfectly using.
> 
> - 44 multiplier
> - 1.26 vcore
> - Turbo Vcore LLC
> - XMP profile1 memory
> 
> ...that's it.
> 
> Max core temp running Prime95 blend at those settings is 67C.
> 
> When I use this and fully load the CPUs CPU-Z reports 1.248 - 1.236 and my VID is 1.2360.
> 
> So I decided I wanted to stop using a constant vcore and instead use a DVID offset. Seems sensible to reduce power consumption at light load if I can. An offset of +0.04V gives me almost exactly the same load vcore, In fact it oscillates a little higher 1.248 - 1.260, which should work, I think, but it does not. The PC will boot and run Prime stably, but it almost always hangs on resume from S3. This is true for offset values from 0.01-0.05V.
> 
> I haven't even tried taking the offset higher because there seems little point in running a significantly higher voltage under load putting the CPU under real additional temp and voltage stress, just to save a few watts at low load!
> 
> Why is it not stable when the vcore varies under load, even though it is stable at a lower vcore than set when using DVID? Is there some other setting I also need to tweak to get DVID working? I did think of changing the Vcore LLC to extreme, but generally this seems to be thought not a good idea unless using subzero cooling.
> 
> Any thoughts gratefully received!


Hi folks, I'm a newbie too, possibly even a more severe case than Jong1 proclaims for himself (because at least he tried to overclock). You'll see my configuration in my profile, and it looks like I match Jong1's. I never have a reason to put the computer to sleep (as it serves up stuff), and last night I tried plugging in Jong1's numbers. May anyone who reads this please advise on whether those are good numbers for a conservative overclock that doesn't risk damaging my system? I do professional editing on Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 and need all the power I can get, but not to an extent that risks instability or hardware failure. I do like the way (at least so far that I've noticed) the system automatically sinks back down to 1.6 GHz when I'm doing light tasks, but flares up to 4.4 GHz when I'm in the Premiere editing environment scrubbing AVCHD footage. I must say that ticking up the voltage, though, was worrying for no other reason than that it was quite a few clicks up.

Thanks for any advice. For example, since sleep mode is never in the cards, should I go with all these settings except to change from the constant vcore to a DVID offset of +0.04V? And are they all good numbers?


----------



## Kaarosu

Hey guys, i just bought an extra FAN for my Hyper evo cooler.

its a 3 pin, I connected that to Sys_fan_3 ... and it works fine ..but the problem its that is at a constant 1461 RPM

while the cpu fan is 670rpm and rises as cpu temp goes up ..

i went into bios PC health status > 1st/2nd/3rd system fan control > manual > i changed to different voltage but my fan still at 1461 rpm

i even use easy tune to slow it down, but doesnt matter what speed i set it to and save .. it doesnt do anything

is there any other way to slow it down to slow rpm?

or even better set it to the same auto as the CPU fan? low rpm when temp is low and higher rpm as cpu temp goes up?

Thanks


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Hi folks, I'm a newbie too, possibly even a more severe case than Jong1 proclaims for himself (because at least he tried to overclock). You'll see my configuration in my profile, and it looks like I match Jong1's. I never have a reason to put the computer to sleep (as it serves up stuff), and last night I tried plugging in Jong1's numbers. May anyone who reads this please advise on whether those are good numbers for a conservative overclock that doesn't risk damaging my system? I do professional editing on Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 and need all the power I can get, but not to an extent that risks instability or hardware failure. I do like the way (at least so far that I've noticed) the system automatically sinks back down to 1.6 GHz when I'm doing light tasks, but flares up to 4.4 GHz when I'm in the Premiere editing environment scrubbing AVCHD footage. I must say that ticking up the voltage, though, was worrying for no other reason than that it was quite a few clicks up.
> Thanks for any advice. For example, since sleep mode is never in the cards, should I go with all these settings except to change from the constant vcore to a DVID offset of +0.04V? And are they all good numbers?


What's your vcore at rest? As long as the freq and vcore is idling down I don't see any harm in a mild OC like x44. Like I said, I have 2xUD5H boards running X45 all the time, (well one isn't on ALL the time and one is). Many of us run x45 or higher all the time, in fact all 3 desktops in my pc room run at x45. In this house the only reason a cpu isn't overclocked is because it ain't possible.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Overclocking my 3570K tonight. So far i started with 4.6Ghz @ 1.3v and it crashed ~ 10 mins of Prime95, Added 1.325v and it crashed ~ 1 hour. Now i am ~ 1.355v ~ (1.345v under load) and its been going at it. I feel like its a bit too much voltage for 4.6Ghz/ Hitting 81C in the hottest core.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Hi folks, I'm a newbie too, possibly even a more severe case than Jong1 proclaims for himself (because at least he tried to overclock). You'll see my configuration in my profile, and it looks like I match Jong1's. I never have a reason to put the computer to sleep (as it serves up stuff), and last night I tried plugging in Jong1's numbers. May anyone who reads this please advise on whether those are good numbers for a conservative overclock that doesn't risk damaging my system? I do professional editing on Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 and need all the power I can get, but not to an extent that risks instability or hardware failure. I do like the way (at least so far that I've noticed) the system automatically sinks back down to 1.6 GHz when I'm doing light tasks, but flares up to 4.4 GHz when I'm in the Premiere editing environment scrubbing AVCHD footage. I must say that ticking up the voltage, though, was worrying for no other reason than that it was quite a few clicks up.
> Thanks for any advice. For example, since sleep mode is never in the cards, should I go with all these settings except to change from the constant vcore to a DVID offset of +0.04V? And are they all good numbers?
> 
> 
> 
> What's your vcore at rest? As long as the freq and vcore is idling down I don't see any harm in a mild OC like x44. Like I said, I have 2xUD5H boards running X45 all the time, (well one isn't on ALL the time and one is). Many of us run x45 or higher all the time, in fact all 3 desktops in my pc room run at x45. In this house the only reason a cpu isn't overclocked is because it ain't possible.
Click to expand...

Hi, thanks for the answer. I'm comfortable, as you note, at leaving my multiplier at x44 as I find while keeping CPU-Z loaded that the Core Speed sinks to 1601.xx MHz whenever I'm surfing the Web, etc., but only jumps up to 4404.xx MHz when engaged in video editing. But what I was really focusing on in my prior email was voltage, not the multiplier.

If I'm looking at the right spot in CPU-Z, my "Core Voltage" holds steady at 1.248 V whether I'm Web surfing, etc. with less processor-intensive stuff, or pushing my 3770K to the limit in Premiere. Isn't this the product of Jong1's initial settings, and is that what he/she was asking about? Should I be giving the Core Voltage some latitude to ramp down during those many many hours when I'm not video editing? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Jong1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaarosu*
> 
> Hey guys, i just bought an extra FAN for my Hyper evo cooler.
> its a 3 pin, I connected that to Sys_fan_3 ... and it works fine ..but the problem its that is at a constant 1461 RPM
> while the cpu fan is 670rpm and rises as cpu temp goes up ..
> i went into bios PC health status > 1st/2nd/3rd system fan control > manual > i changed to different voltage but my fan still at 1461 rpm
> i even use easy tune to slow it down, but doesnt matter what speed i set it to and save .. it doesnt do anything
> is there any other way to slow it down to slow rpm?
> or even better set it to the same auto as the CPU fan? low rpm when temp is low and higher rpm as cpu temp goes up?
> Thanks


You really should replace that fan with a 4-pin PWM fan. Some come with a two way splitter to combine with your existing. If not you can buy them e.g http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lead-Pwm-Fan-Splitter-Braided/dp/B007QT3MY4 (just an an example, obviously you wouldn't buy there!). Then both fans will ramp up and down together as you want.


----------



## Jong1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Hi, thanks for the answer. I'm comfortable, as you note, at leaving my multiplier at x44 as I find while keeping CPU-Z loaded that the Core Speed sinks to 1601.xx MHz whenever I'm surfing the Web, etc., but only jumps up to 4404.xx MHz when engaged in video editing. But what I was really focusing on in my prior email was voltage, not the multiplier.
> If I'm looking at the right spot in CPU-Z, my "Core Voltage" holds steady at 1.248 V whether I'm Web surfing, etc. with less processor-intensive stuff, or pushing my 3770K to the limit in Premiere. Isn't this the product of Jong1's initial settings, and is that what he/she was asking about? Should I be giving the Core Voltage some latitude to ramp down during those many many hours when I'm not video editing? Thanks in advance.


Using an offset will make the voltage ramp up and down, but as you see from my example it can be harder to get it 100% stable (i cant at the moment @4.4). I would not worry about running 1.26 long term. Apart from fact you are using more power, it is a modest and safe step up. And the power consumption varies with clock speed as well as voltage, so you will still use less power when stepped down than when running at 4.4.

You should check your temps and stability when running at load though, using something like Prime95. Several hours testing (ideally overnight) is needed. But check immediately you start and for the first few mins to be sure you are not cooking your CPU! Your cooler should easily be up to it, but it is best to check. If it were poorly seated you could still have probs.

(ps. I'm a "he"







)


----------



## Jong1

Does anyone know the difference between "Normal" and "Standard" for the Vcore LLC setting?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Hi, thanks for the answer. I'm comfortable, as you note, at leaving my multiplier at x44 as I find while keeping CPU-Z loaded that the Core Speed sinks to 1601.xx MHz whenever I'm surfing the Web, etc., but only jumps up to 4404.xx MHz when engaged in video editing. But what I was really focusing on in my prior email was voltage, not the multiplier.
> If I'm looking at the right spot in CPU-Z, my "Core Voltage" holds steady at 1.248 V whether I'm Web surfing, etc. with less processor-intensive stuff, or pushing my 3770K to the limit in Premiere. Isn't this the product of Jong1's initial settings, and is that what he/she was asking about? Should I be giving the Core Voltage some latitude to ramp down during those many many hours when I'm not video editing? Thanks in advance.


As Jong1 already said, offset OC, and leaving the EIST, C3/C6 options on Auto will allow the freq and vcore to idle down when not needed. I personally don't have any problems with offset OC on either of my boards, and I have sleep enabled and fully functional.
As long as you're using a recent iteration of CPU-Z it shoud show proper vcore, or I sometimes prefer more detailed info and so I use HWINFO , and I configure it for whatever temps/volts/etc I want to monitor including graphics card.
What you should do, as noted, and IMO, is to run the latest version of Prime 95 with >90% memory use for at the least a few hours, or preferably +12- 18 hours to check stability. During this time monitor Event Viewer from time to time and make sure you get no WHEA error 19 notices. If you do, you are not 100% stable and need to increase offset/vcore one way or another. Keep an eye out for temps while testing as this will stress out your system to max temps and you will find out quick if your cooling is sufficient.
Honestly a x44 OC is not what I would call a massive OC, but is more at the transistion point where many cpu's start wanting more vcore for stability.
*All cpu's are different!* So don't be confused by what DVID offset settings someone else uses if they don't apply to you. I have two 3770K's and both are different in their requirements for offset voltage, although in the end both have pretty much the same max vcore under load.
After working with it a while you get a feel for whether increasing offset or LLC will help the most, I usually configure my x45 OC's for a little droop as long as it doesn't affect stability. Monitor results.txt log in Prime 95 and it will show if one of the workers quit, meaning you have to start over usually with more vcore/offset. I usually erase mine after each run so I don't have to scroll to China to see current results.
HTH.


----------



## Jong1

Mandrix, accepting all you say about differing CPUs, can you share your offset, vcore LLC and any other settings you think are important for your 2 3770k processors? I would like to understand if I should try to push higher than a .12 offset, to say .15, which seems OTT to me. but maybe not?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Finally got it to 4.6Ghz stable @ 1.345v. @ 80C. Is it safe to push it further?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> Mandrix, accepting all you say about differing CPUs, can you share your offset, vcore LLC and any other settings you think are important for your 2 3770k processors? I would like to understand if I should try to push higher than a .12 offset, to say .15, which seems OTT to me. but maybe not?


I have one running at 0.00 offset and Medium LLC, another running +.020 offset and High LLC. A fellow I helped a little with his OC is running +.045 offset with his overclock, yet his max vcore in Prime 95 is less than mine. That's why I say all cpu's are different. BTW, that's also 3 identical motherboards as well. (2 x UD5H, 1 x UD5H Wifi)

(missed quoting this one)
Finally got it to 4.6Ghz stable @ 1.345v. @ 80C. Is it safe to push it further?
Sure. If you're worried about temp your OK. One of my 3770K's runs up in the 90's on water at just x45 in Prime 95 (yeah, it sucks. hottest chip I've seen)


----------



## mastabog

Hi all,

Windows 7 x64 SP1 Ultimate

I just got a Z77X-UP5, which looks lovely. Sadly, it hangs just before the welcome screen. I tracked it down to the official HD4000 drivers. Without the HD4000 drivers installed, it works fine (safe mode as well). When loading HD4000 drivers, it loads right up to the point where the welcome screen should appear and then it hangs on a black screen; num lock is lit and stuck.

I tried two versions of the HD4000 drivers: 15.28.2.64.2817 (latest from Intel) and 15.26.9.64.2712 (latest from Gigabyte)

I also tried two BIOS versions: F4 (came with the board) and F10 (latest from Gigabyte)

I also did a fresh Win 7 x64 install. It worked fne until I installed the HD4000 drivers, after which it did exactly the same as above.

Anyone had this issue and has any tips for me or should I RMA the board?

Cheers

p.s. I tried until now a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H, Z77X-UD5H and an Asus Maximus V Gene ... no such problems as above on any of these 3 boards.


----------



## Jong1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I have one running at 0.00 offset and Medium LLC, another running +.020 offset and High LLC. A fellow I helped a little with his OC is running +.045 offset with his overclock, yet his max vcore in Prime 95 is less than mine. That's why I say all cpu's are different. BTW, that's also 3 identical motherboards as well. (2 x UD5H, 1 x UD5H Wifi)


yes, it confirms my suspicion that whatever the problem is pushing up the offset to +.15 or greater is not it!

Well at least I am 100% solid with my fixed vcore. At some point I will experiment with some other settings - maybe PWM Phase Control. If I ever get it solid with an offset I will report back!


----------



## mandrix

I just keep the phase set at extreme performance. Does it make a difference? I don't know to be honest but I suspect not unless you're going really cold. There's really not a whole lot that needs tweaking on these boards for a straight up OC in my opinion.
DVID & LLC, and I set vcore response to Fast, phase Extreme Performance, Profile 1 for my ram, that's about it. Most everything else on Auto. But by all means tinker and learn!


----------



## Jong1

_Provisionally_, eXm Perf for PWM Phase Control seems to be the key.

I am now using:

PWM Phase Control: eXm Perf
Vcore LLC: Standard
Vcore offset: +0.07

I have managed to switch in and out of sleep 20 times without issue. Switching PWM Phase Control to Auto & High Perf each caused a lock up within 2 attempts at sleep.

Looks solid. But only a few days will tell. Yet to run an extended Prime95 test again as well of course. Vcore at load is a couple of notches down on its level when vcore was set at 1.26 fixed (1.236 in CPU-Z, LLC: Turbo), but 1 hour of Prime was good. Temps of course are better - max core only 58C at load. Will test overnight tonight.


----------



## mandrix

There you go. I can't always remember why I do stuff but I've set mine for Ex Perf since early days with the board. Acute CRS condition......


----------



## gizmo83

i am at 4.4 ghz. multiplier 44x and bclk 100mhz. pwm set to mid power and llc medium. cpu vtt standard. vcore normal with 0.02 offset. max temp of hottest core is 77° measured with real temp under linx stress test. if i use pwm extreme performance the temps are nearly the same and with cinebench 11.5 the score change by 8.60 to 8.90. i dont't understand if exist a real improvement or there is only a waste of electric energy ..


----------



## Jong1

Actually still not 100% using an offset voltage, so I give up.

Interesting stats though using HWiNFO64:

- CPU power usage under full load (Prime95): 72W
- CPU usage when idle with FIXED 1.26v vCore: 8.5W

So, what am I going to save by trying to get a variable vCore working? 4W maybe, if I'm lucky? I've probably wasted a lifetime of any such savings on this PC just doing the additional stress testing!









I am going to stick with a fixed voltage.


----------



## lb_felipe

Can the last Z77X-UD3H's PCIe slot be used by a PCIe x1 sound card like X-Fi TiHD? This slot physically is x16 but electrically it is x4.


----------



## Bluemustang

My UD3H finally arrived today. Now I probably have to wait until monday for my 3570k and ram, and with armored kill and black mesa releasing the anticipation is killer!

One thing I was wondering is, I am going to use crossfire 7970s. Do I really have to use that sata power thing for extra power? Are the 6 and 8 pin cables as well as PCI E lanes not enough? lol


----------



## menia

Hello,

I'm on the fence with choosing between the Z77X-D3H and Z77X-UD5H

My current build:
CPU: I7-3770K
Cooler: Noctua NH-D14
PSU: SeaSonic X760W Gold Modular
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 670 N670OC-2GD
Storage: SSD CrucialM4128GB + HDD WD 1TB

I'm going to get the i7-3770K and I want to have a moderate OC of 4.2Ghz-4.5Ghz.
Now initially I wanted to get the UD3H but it's out of stock and would take longer than I can wait so I need to choose between the UD5H and the D3H.

For my use would you say the D3H would suffice? would it hold long term?
I feel like the UD5H is overkill as I won't have use for the extra ports anyway and it's more expensive.
What do you suggest?


----------



## Sin0822

Hey guys sorry I was gone for a bit, I was out of town all this week and just got back. Looks like you guys have things under control in here







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> Actually still not 100% using an offset voltage, so I give up.
> Interesting stats though using HWiNFO64:
> - CPU power usage under full load (Prime95): 72W
> - CPU usage when idle with FIXED 1.26v vCore: 8.5W
> So, what am I going to save by trying to get a variable vCore working? 4W maybe, if I'm lucky? I've probably wasted a lifetime of any such savings on this PC just doing the additional stress testing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to stick with a fixed voltage.


The thing is that whatever your vcore, when the CPU drops into idle state the current is MUCH less, and that is why there is a very little difference between manual and offset, other than it might help your temps and power draw a tiny bit, which people like. It also will reduce the vcore, which might help with the life a slight bit(but not much as current is the real killer).

So you can do easy math to figure out a ball park, P=IV or power = current * voltage so 8.5/1.26 =6.75A so at the same speed your current will be the same most likely, and 6.75/0.9v(which is idle voltage)=6.0W so yea you save 2.5W which also directly helps idle temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lb_felipe*
> 
> Can the last Z77X-UD3H's PCIe slot be used by a PCIe x1 sound card like X-Fi TiHD? This slot physically is x16 but electrically it is x4.


Yea it will accept it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> My UD3H finally arrived today. Now I probably have to wait until monday for my 3570k and ram, and with armored kill and black mesa releasing the anticipation is killer!
> One thing I was wondering is, I am going to use crossfire 7970s. Do I really have to use that sata power thing for extra power? Are the 6 and 8 pin cables as well as PCI E lanes not enough? lol


no you prob don't' need it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> i am at 4.4 ghz. multiplier 44x and bclk 100mhz. pwm set to mid power and llc medium. cpu vtt standard. vcore normal with 0.02 offset. max temp of hottest core is 77° measured with real temp under linx stress test. if i use pwm extreme performance the temps are nearly the same and with cinebench 11.5 the score change by 8.60 to 8.90. i dont't understand if exist a real improvement or there is only a waste of electric energy ..


Yea the power phase setting determines whether the VRM will react based on CPU temperature or react based on current demands. More current=higher performance, more temperature=lower performance. So the PWM has the decide how to react depending on a dozen variables, you have control over this with a digital PWM, and thus it can help performance by setting to extreme performance. If your score is higher than that is pretty impressive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *menia*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm on the fence with choosing between the Z77X-D3H and Z77X-UD5H
> My current build:
> CPU: I7-3770K
> Cooler: Noctua NH-D14
> PSU: SeaSonic X760W Gold Modular
> GPU: Gigabyte GTX 670 N670OC-2GD
> Storage: SSD CrucialM4128GB + HDD WD 1TB
> I'm going to get the i7-3770K and I want to have a moderate OC of 4.2Ghz-4.5Ghz.
> Now initially I wanted to get the UD3H but it's out of stock and would take longer than I can wait so I need to choose between the UD5H and the D3H.
> For my use would you say the D3H would suffice? would it hold long term?
> I feel like the UD5H is overkill as I won't have use for the extra ports anyway and it's more expensive.
> What do you suggest?


I answered you in the PM, but i think the UD5H would have a better BIOS.


----------



## sl4y3r

Hi Guys I have a UD3H with a 3570k , I have 8GB 1600 9-9-9-24 Ram but I have it running at 1866 10-9-9-24-1T , My problem is that mt system takes long to POST. When I set the Ram to 1600 and Stock Timings I post SLIIGHTLY faster. With 1866 it take 13-14 Seconds to pass the Boot Logo. 25 seconds to Desktop. Everything else except RAM is stock.

BIOS F17 (Latest)

Other Hardware:
2x 6870
1 Corsair Force 3 60GB(Connected to 6GB/s Port)
1 Seagate 500 GB 7200.12
1 LG DVD Burner

Thanks in advance


----------



## Jong1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey guys sorry I was gone for a bit, I was out of town all this week and just got back. Looks like you guys have things under control in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is that whatever your vcore, when the CPU drops into idle state the current is MUCH less, and that is why there is a very little difference between manual and offset, other than it might help your temps and power draw a tiny bit, which people like. It also will reduce the vcore, which might help with the life a slight bit(but not much as current is the real killer).
> So you can do easy math to figure out a ball park, P=IV or power = current * voltage so 8.5/1.26 =6.75A so at the same speed your current will be the same most likely, and 6.75/0.9v(which is idle voltage)=6.0W so yea you save 2.5W which also directly helps idle temps.


Thanks Sin. My idle core temps are <=30C so I'm pretty happy. I guess it gets a bit more complex as the PC comes out of idle, the vcore difference between offset and fixed starts to drop, but the current rises, but I doubt the difference in power draw is ever that significant.

Still, much as I say I am happy with fixed vcore (and I am) the curious side of me is really bugged by why it seems impossible to get this system stable with offset voltage. I have tried all different phase control, LLC and voltage response settings, reduced the overclock to 4.2, even slacked off memory timings. It really doesn't seem to like variable vcore. About all I can think of, other than a MB issue, is the power supply is not up to it, but that is a Corsair TX, so really should have good enough response and it is fine with a fixed voltage.

Any thoughts?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> All the new GB boards have the purple caps, they are really interchangeable, but if you have blue it would indicate your UD5H was part of the first big batch sent out to vendors. All my UD5Hs before launch had blue caps, i got 1 later launch with purple.


I have one with blue caps and space between dimms.

Are there any changes between these two revisions besides cosmetic ones?


----------



## HCore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I have one with blue caps and space between dimms.
> *Are there any changes between these two revisions besides cosmetic ones?*


Yes I'd like to know this as well.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Sin, I'm having trouble going past 2200mhz with any kind of ram, when previously I could boot at 2400mhz no problem. I've tested both my samsung green's, two other samsung kits and a gskill ripjaws cl7-7-7-24 1.65v kit so far. I'm on f14 bios now...
I think I'll flash f5 on my secondary bios to see if that improves the memory oc. I flashed f14 cause it was the last stable bios, and had the supposed "samsung fix" for my green 30nm ram sticks.
I'm a bit dissapointed with this bios, my same sticks can do 2333mhz cl10 on a fx8120, and with the same cpu they did 2400 cl10 before flashing to f14.
What else do you suggest?
I'm pretty sure they ram sticks are in slots 1 and 2 for dual channel config A, and I've tweaked sub timings according to your guides, and tweaked from there till I found my best stable setting at 2200mhz cl10-11-11-26-1T @ 1.65v.
Thanks in advance! I enjoy reading your guides and following your threads. My buddy has had great success with your bulldozer oc guide btw, props for that too.


----------



## sl4y3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Sin, I'm having trouble going past 2200mhz with any kind of ram, when previously I could boot at 2400mhz no problem. I've tested both my samsung green's, two other samsung kits and a gskill ripjaws cl7-7-7-24 1.65v kit so far. I'm on f14 bios now...
> I think I'll flash f5 on my secondary bios to see if that improves the memory oc. I flashed f14 cause it was the last stable bios, and had the supposed "samsung fix" for my green 30nm ram sticks.
> I'm a bit dissapointed with this bios, my same sticks can do 2333mhz cl10 on a fx8120, and with the same cpu they did 2400 cl10 before flashing to f14.
> What else do you suggest?
> I'm pretty sure they ram sticks are in slots 1 and 2 for dual channel config A, and I've tweaked sub timings according to your guides, and tweaked from there till I found my best stable setting at 2200mhz cl10-11-11-26-1T @ 1.65v.
> Thanks in advance! I enjoy reading your guides and following your threads. My buddy has had great success with your bulldozer oc guide btw, props for that too.


Even I feel there are RAM issues with F17 on the UD3H. I posted earlier that my UD3H takes 14 Seconds to POST. It takes a good 6 seconts from the time i hit the power button to the time my monitor detects a video signal.

Any one else faces that ?

It POST slightly faster when my RAM is at Stock.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sl4y3r*
> 
> Even I feel there are RAM issues with F17 on the UD3H. I posted earlier that my UD3H takes 14 Seconds to POST. It takes a good 6 seconts from the time i hit the power button to the time my monitor detects a video signal.
> Any one else faces that ?
> It POST slightly faster when my RAM is at Stock.


That sounds like ram instability or compatibility issues. I had that same behaviour when I plugged in some older gskill cl7 2gb sticks to test them.
When I clocked them higher it took the pc longer to boot, and tweak launcher would read strange timings, different than the ones in cpu-z, which were also different from the ones I set in the bios manually.
There was an xmp profile but the timings were all blank.

I just tried overclocking my ram with the secondary bios (which is f8 atm) and I got stuck too, I think f14 is even better, it seems.


----------



## sl4y3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> That sounds like ram instability or compatibility issues. I had that same behaviour when I plugged in some older gskill cl7 2gb sticks to test them.
> When I clocked them higher it took the pc longer to boot, and tweak launcher would read strange timings, different than the ones in cpu-z, which were also different from the ones I set in the bios manually.
> There was an xmp profile but the timings were all blank.
> I just tried overclocking my ram with the secondary bios (which is f8 atm) and I got stuck too, I think f14 is even better, it seems.


The System is stable and the boot times are fast once it crosses the Gigabyte logo, But crossing the GB logo is what im getting long wait times. Thanks for your reply though.


----------



## kanaks

Hello guys just received my UD5H and I am amazed by the look of her heatsinks








I am a bit stressed though cause when i opened the amazon cartoon i found out that the motherboard box wasn't nylon wrapped nor did it have a seal of any kind (i.e stickers), is it normal? I checked the CPU pins and they seemed ok to me.

has anybody used the HP_PWR connector to light up Raystorm? That connector seems proprietary.
 It seems to be a clever feature but the documentation is poor not to mention that is easier to see an oompa loompa than a connector of that shape.

And a last one, does anyone has Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866MHz . Its not in the QVL and they have told me horror stories about compatibility issues, so am a bit sceptic about proceeding to buy them (gaming PC).

Sorry for the question attack and excuse my ignorance


----------



## ivanlabrie

BTW, do any of you guys know how to get mem tweakit to work? Is that even possible?
I've seen it suggested in this thread or in the Samsung green's thread.


----------



## Sin0822

yea easily, just download and start. There is a blue and black version available on TT.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Hello guys just received my UD5H and I am amazed by the look of her heatsinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a bit stressed though cause when i opened the amazon cartoon i found out that the motherboard box wasn't nylon wrapped nor did it have a seal of any kind (i.e stickers), is it normal? I checked the CPU pins and they seemed ok to me.
> has anybody used the HP_PWR connector to light up Raystorm? That connector seems proprietary.
> It seems to be a clever feature but the documentation is poor not to mention that is easier to see an oompa loompa than a connector of that shape.
> And a last one, does anyone has Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866MHz . Its not in the QVL and they have told me horror stories about compatibility issues, so am a bit sceptic about proceeding to buy them (gaming PC).
> Sorry for the question attack and excuse my ignorance


That HP power connector has 1 pin at 12v and the other at ground. I have no idea why it is there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> BTW, do any of you guys know how to get mem tweakit to work? Is that even possible?
> I've seen it suggested in this thread or in the Samsung green's thread.


Try BIOS F6X for the samsung green memory. Otherwise you need to learn to input the secondary and 3rd timings correctly. You also need to increase voltage. You should be doing at least 2400mhz on the green.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> That HP power connector has 1 pin at 12v and the other at ground. I have no idea why it is there.
> Try BIOS F6X for the samsung green memory. Otherwise you need to learn to input the secondary and 3rd timings correctly. You also need to increase voltage. You should be doing at least 2400mhz on the green.


I tried different secondary and tertiary timings, but I can't say I 'know' how to adjust them. I based more on your settings and others I've seen posted. But I'd like to learn though...
What I did with them helped though, cause I got to 2200mhz cl9-12-12-1T @ 1.75v.
2400mhz wasn't possible, no matter what I did.

Also, do you have a link for the f6x bios?
Thanks again, just found the blue mem tweakit version, I'll try it when I get home tonight.


----------



## cmcpayo

Hi fellow gigabyte user, i've been using this z77xud3h for few months now, and im happy with it. I'm planning to upgrade my ram from kingston 4gb 1333 to g.skill ares 16gb 1866mhz http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=484 this is the cheapest 1866 memory that i found from local store on my end. please suggest me a good brand of ram that performs well when overclocked - maybe 1600 will do thanks


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmcpayo*
> 
> Hi fellow gigabyte user, i've been using this z77xud3h for few months now, and im happy with it. I'm planning to upgrade my ram from kingston 4gb 1333 to g.skill ares 16gb 1866mhz http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=484 this is the cheapest 1866 memory that i found from local store on my end. please suggest me a good brand of ram that performs well when overclocked - maybe 1600 will do thanks


Everyone suggests the Samsung green 8gb kits...They have some issues clocking beyond 2133mhz with this boards for some people. But they offer great value!
And they can definitely do 1600mhz cl9, 1866mhz cl8, 2000mhz cl8. You name it, as long as your cpu's imc is up to the task.








They cost $45 more or less.


----------



## cmcpayo

Quote:


> Everyone suggests the Samsung green 8gb kits...They have some issues clocking beyond 2133mhz with this boards for some people. But they offer great value!
> And they can definitely do 1600mhz cl9, 1866mhz cl8, 2000mhz cl8. You name it, as long as your cpu's imc is up to the task. thumb.gif
> They cost $45 more or less.


thanks for the quick reply, unfortunately they dont carry samsung. only available are gskills, corsair and kingston.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmcpayo*
> 
> thanks for the quick reply, unfortunately they dont carry samsung. only available are gskills, corsair and kingston.


Gskill ripjaws x are good...Ripjaws Z and Trident X are good too, but clock a bit worse. (PSC versus Samsung ic)
If you go Kingston, some hyper x kits are really good, some not so much.









Do you have a site we can check out to suggest some models?


----------



## mandrix

I have Kingston HyperX running on one board and it works just fine. It's only 1600 but the profile 1 works.This is the one with the very tall heat spreaders.(found the number: KHX1600C9D3T1K2/8GX)
Same with G Skill TridentX 2400, I have that on another board and it works good at 2400 right out of the box.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I tried different secondary and tertiary timings, but I can't say I 'know' how to adjust them. I based more on your settings and others I've seen posted. But I'd like to learn though...
> What I did with them helped though, cause I got to 2200mhz cl9-12-12-1T @ 1.75v.
> 2400mhz wasn't possible, no matter what I did.
> Also, do you have a link for the f6x bios?
> Thanks again, just found the blue mem tweakit version, I'll try it when I get home tonight.


sorry it is f`10x.

Here: http://downloads.hwbot.org/downloads/BIOS/Z77/Z77XUD5H.F10x

my bad it is F10X i think. Also enable CPU PLL Overvoltage!!!!!! that is if it is available.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmcpayo*
> 
> thanks for the quick reply, unfortunately they dont carry samsung. only available are gskills, corsair and kingston.


Id get kingston to be safe.


----------



## netham45

I'm looking for a TPM for one of these (It has the header), does anyone know where I might be able to get one from? Having a difficult time finding anything on them.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> sorry it is f`10x.
> Here: http://downloads.hwbot.org/downloads/BIOS/Z77/Z77XUD5H.F10x
> my bad it is F10X i think. Also enable CPU PLL Overvoltage!!!!!! that is if it is available.
> Id get kingston to be safe.


I have internal pll overvoltage enabled. I'll try that bios tonight...
Could it be my regular pll voltage?
It's set at 1.6v for temps.

Thanks Sin! As usual, you're baws.


----------



## mandrix

I doubt lowering CPU PLL is going to help any with temps. I and others have done testing with lowering and it made no difference we could tell. In fact it could make it harder to get stable if you go too low.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I doubt lowering CPU PLL is going to help any with temps. I and others have done testing with lowering and it made no difference we could tell. In fact it could make it harder to get stable if you go too low.


In my case it did help, and wouldn't hurt my cpu oc stability. Today I validated a 4c/8t 5.2ghz overclock...but 2400mhz ram is a no go.
I'll post my findings here, tomorrow I'll have some ic diamond 7 to remount my SA, and tonight I'll flash f10x bios after playing with pll.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I doubt lowering CPU PLL is going to help any with temps. I and others have done testing with lowering and it made no difference we could tell. In fact it could make it harder to get stable if you go too low.
> 
> 
> 
> In my case it did help, and wouldn't hurt my cpu oc stability. Today I validated a 4c/8t 5.2ghz overclock...but 2400mhz ram is a no go.
> I'll post my findings here, tomorrow I'll have some ic diamond 7 to remount my SA, and tonight I'll flash f10x bios after playing with pll.
Click to expand...

You'd better get some Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra or the Indigo Extreme instead of the IC Diamond 7









http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/616280-there-real-benefits-getting-ic-diamond-your-thermal-compound-5.html
http://www.indigo-xtreme.com/images/skineelabschart.jpg


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> You'd better get some Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra or the Indigo Extreme instead of the IC Diamond 7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/616280-there-real-benefits-getting-ic-diamond-your-thermal-compound-5.html
> http://www.indigo-xtreme.com/images/skineelabschart.jpg


I know, but I can't find those locally. And incredibly AS5 is priced double what my IC Diamond 7 is!








It'll be better than the generic white good I'm using (which yields 78c max temps at 4.5ghz @ 1.23v)


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> In my case it did help, and wouldn't hurt my cpu oc stability. Today I validated a 4c/8t 5.2ghz overclock...but 2400mhz ram is a no go.
> I'll post my findings here, tomorrow I'll have some ic diamond 7 to remount my SA, and tonight I'll flash f10x bios after playing with pll.


I also benefited by lowering my cpu pll to 1.65 by lowering temps. guess its a hit and miss kind of effect across different systems.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I also benefited by lowering my cpu pll to 1.65 by lowering temps. guess its a hit and miss kind of effect across different systems.


It does affect temps, but I found out it did affect stability, cause last night I tested my same 24/7 4.5ghz oc with less vcore after going for 1.8v pll and I got to use less voltage for the same frequencies. Heck I can now oc to 4.7ghz with the same voltage I used to get for 4.6ghz before with pll at 1.6v


----------



## vvilliamm

Hey guys i got my ud5h board on release date when sin did the review for it.. i haven't overclocked it yet till last night but im running into some issues.

Im wondering do i have to change the vcore load line calibration.. i have Normal, turbo, extreme, and etc settings.

Im trying to hit a stable 4.5ghz on a 2600k.

so far i have it at 1.3v and all the c states enabled because I want my multipliers/vcore to drop when idle. I ran the intel burn test and i would get bsod... and some people told me to change the llc. I also dont see my multipliers dropping when my comp is idle as well =/.

also anyone know the difference from the newer ud5h board from the old one?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvilliamm*
> 
> Hey guys i got my ud5h board on release date when sin did the review for it.. i haven't overclocked it yet till last night but im running into some issues.
> Im wondering do i have to change the vcore load line calibration.. i have Normal, turbo, extreme, and etc settings.
> Im trying to hit a stable 4.5ghz on a 2600k.
> so far i have it at 1.3v and all the c states enabled because I want my multipliers/vcore to drop when idle. I ran the intel burn test and i would get bsod... and some people told me to change the llc. I also dont see my multipliers dropping when my comp is idle as well =/.
> also anyone know the difference from the newer ud5h board from the old one?


1.3v for 4.5ghz on a 2600k is rather optimistic!








I used to run it at 1.36v for the same oc, when I had a 2600k, so be sure to bump the voltage a bit till you get no bsods.
Then if you get errors while doing prime95 blend (custom, 90% ram size allocated), set LLC to turbo.
Up your vcore slowly, in 0,005v increments till the workers keep going on and you don't get any errors or bsods.
Also, after your system is apparently prime stable for 12hs, the last thing to check is the Event viewer log for WHEA errors.
Start menu_type event viewer_Windows logs_System logs.
If you see WHEA errors you need to either bump vcore two more notches or perhaps bump the imc voltage a tiny bit. (also enable pll overvoltage and set pll voltage to auto)

EDIT: If you're using offset getting a stable oc can be harder. Keep in mind that having a constant clock or vcore doesn't really harm the cpu. What harms it more is running high amperage AND vcore through it, which doesn't happen when idle. If you have a constant voltage but the current is less, the energy amount is less, and so is the heat.
So no worries there! You just get to save $5 on a yearly basis lol


----------



## mandrix

Well never say never when it comes to motherboards and cpu's, I guess. I tested both of my UD5H boards thoroughly when I first overclocked them, and in no way did lowering CPU PLL help with temps. I'm glad to see that it does help someone, though. I have one 3770K that runs so hot at x45 it's unreal, even under water and lapped, and absolutely nothing helps the temps with that one. I 'm talking about low 90's running Prime 95 with custom water cooling! At x44 it's not so hot, and really it's only when stress testing that the temps show their ugly head, but still....
My other 3770K would function OK at lower CPU PLL up to about x45, but above that it seriously impeded overclocking stability. So maybe it falls more on the cpu side than the board side. These darn 3770K's just seem to have so much variability between them I can't believe it.


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvilliamm*
> 
> ...so far i have it at 1.3v and all the c states enabled because I want my multipliers/vcore to drop when idle... I also dont see my multipliers dropping when my comp is idle as well =/. ...


You need to enable CPU EIST. That's the cpu stepping (downclocking) at idle by lowering the multiplier. Sleep states (c states) don't control that function.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvilliamm*
> 
> Hey guys i got my ud5h board on release date when sin did the review for it.. i haven't overclocked it yet till last night but im running into some issues.
> Im wondering do i have to change the vcore load line calibration.. i have Normal, turbo, extreme, and etc settings.
> Im trying to hit a stable 4.5ghz on a 2600k.
> so far i have it at 1.3v and all the c states enabled because I want my multipliers/vcore to drop when idle. I ran the intel burn test and i would get bsod... and some people told me to change the llc. I also dont see my multipliers dropping when my comp is idle as well =/.
> also anyone know the difference from the newer ud5h board from the old one?


there is no different in CPU oc, set LLC to turbo.

If you want the multiplier to drop you need to enable EIST like already mentioned. If you want vcore to drop as well then you need to use DVID offset, by setting vcore to normal and then setting an offset voltage. If you get a BSOD then you need more voltage you can try LLC extreme too. ALso set phase mode to extreme perf.


----------



## GumBall

Hello Everyone.

Just brought the UD5H and seem to be having some problems (probably caused be me being a noob).

1st. When ever I change anything in the bios and save and boot, windows comes up and says MBR is missing press 'ctrl+alt+delete ' to restart. The only way then that i can boot the machine is to clear the CMOS.
2nd 2 off my HDD (SATA) drives do not show up on 'my computer. These are only storage drives but I do need to access them.
3rd The little OCZ mSATA drive that i got for using RST doesnot show up in my computer.
4th I Cannot get RST to work at all every time I have tried it I have had to reinstall Windows as NTLDR error comes up.
5th Computer takes quite a long time to boot

I've done a BIOS update to Z77X-UD5H F14.

Other than the above the machine is up and running now but i would like to make full use of all the features available if possible. I'm hoping that i'm just being really stupid and these problems are easy to fix.

Oh by the way I'm not that brilliant on BIOS speak yet so please be gentle


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Hello guys just received my UD5H and I am amazed by the look of her heatsinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a bit stressed though cause when i opened the amazon cartoon i found out that the motherboard box wasn't nylon wrapped nor did it have a seal of any kind (i.e stickers), is it normal? I checked the CPU pins and they seemed ok to me.
> has anybody used the HP_PWR connector to light up Raystorm? That connector seems proprietary.
> It seems to be a clever feature but the documentation is poor not to mention that is easier to see an oompa loompa than a connector of that shape.
> And a last one, does anyone has Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866MHz . Its not in the QVL and they have told me horror stories about compatibility issues, so am a bit sceptic about proceeding to buy them (gaming PC).
> Sorry for the question attack and excuse my ignorance


i have been using gigabyte products for a long time and none of them had a sealed box, mobos and gpus


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> i have been using gigabyte products for a long time and none of them had a sealed box, mobos and gpus


Same here, I've bought three Gigabyte boards so far, 0 sealed boxes so far.


----------



## r0ach

TLDR version: setting UD5H with 2500k to 1.35vcore in BIOS (F14) gets me 1.5v actual vcore instead of 1.35v

Ok people, there are MAJOR problems with the F14 UD5H BIOS.

I flashed to F14 a week or two ago but hadn't really sat down with the BIOS and tested to make sure everything was working properly until now. When I first got the UD5H + 2500k, I tested to find the highest, safe, conservative overclock for the 2500k CPU and it came out to 4.5ghz w/ 1.35vcore.

I had been running the CPU at 4ghz since I didn't really need the extra power but today I decided to crank it back up to 4.5 ghz for the first time with the F14 BIOS. After raising the clock back to 4.5ghz and setting vcore to 1.35v, I started to run Intel burn test just to make sure everything was good and I got some HORRIBLE temps coming back:



I couldn't figure out what was going on because my usual temps at 4.5ghz were in the low 70's then I open CPU-Z and it says my vcore is running at 1.5v, even though I only set it to 1.35v in BIOS. As soon as I notice the vcore and temps, it's just getting done with 2 runs of IBT and I immediately go to shut it down. Right then, I hear a snap/pop rice crispy sound come from my PC. The last time I heard a sound like that was right before I watched an ASRock board catch on fire.

This makes me really mad that through no fault of my own, I have probably degraded/damaged the hell out of my CPU and maybe even damaged the motherboard or both at the same time.

Just so you know this isn't a CPUZ or temperature readout error, here's what my PC looks like running 4ghz with 1.3v on F14 BIOS:



The only overclock related settings I had changed in BIOS for both pictures are the following settings:

Vcore: 1.35vcore for 4.5ghz and 1.3vcore for 4ghz
PWM Phase control: eXm Perf
LLC: High
All other voltages on "Normal", not "Auto"
Memory: 1600mhz, 7-8-7-24 @ 1.45v


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GumBall*
> 
> Hello Everyone.
> Just brought the UD5H and seem to be having some problems (probably caused be me being a noob).
> 1st. When ever I change anything in the bios and save and boot, windows comes up and says MBR is missing press 'ctrl+alt+delete ' to restart. The only way then that i can boot the machine is to clear the CMOS.
> 2nd 2 off my HDD (SATA) drives do not show up on 'my computer. These are only storage drives but I do need to access them.
> 3rd The little OCZ mSATA drive that i got for using RST doesnot show up in my computer.
> 4th I Cannot get RST to work at all every time I have tried it I have had to reinstall Windows as NTLDR error comes up.
> 5th Computer takes quite a long time to boot
> I've done a BIOS update to Z77X-UD5H F14.
> Other than the above the machine is up and running now but i would like to make full use of all the features available if possible. I'm hoping that i'm just being really stupid and these problems are easy to fix.
> Oh by the way I'm not that brilliant on BIOS speak yet so please be gentle


First make sure you are populating the SATA III ports (white) first with your boot drive, secondary, etc and not the Marvell (gray), starting with SATA3_0 for boot drive.
Check and make sure you have the proper boot order set up in the BIOS. Save and Reboot back to BIOS and recheck. Then depending on your setup, you may have to select "windows boot manager" as first boot option.


----------



## vvilliamm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> there is no different in CPU oc, set LLC to turbo.
> If you want the multiplier to drop you need to enable EIST like already mentioned. If you want vcore to drop as well then you need to use DVID offset, by setting vcore to normal and then setting an offset voltage. If you get a BSOD then you need more voltage you can try LLC extreme too. ALso set phase mode to extreme perf.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> 1.3v for 4.5ghz on a 2600k is rather optimistic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to run it at 1.36v for the same oc, when I had a 2600k, so be sure to bump the voltage a bit till you get no bsods.
> Then if you get errors while doing prime95 blend (custom, 90% ram size allocated), set LLC to turbo.
> Up your vcore slowly, in 0,005v increments till the workers keep going on and you don't get any errors or bsods.
> Also, after your system is apparently prime stable for 12hs, the last thing to check is the Event viewer log for WHEA errors.
> Start menu_type event viewer_Windows logs_System logs.
> If you see WHEA errors you need to either bump vcore two more notches or perhaps bump the imc voltage a tiny bit. (also enable pll overvoltage and set pll voltage to auto)
> EDIT: If you're using offset getting a stable oc can be harder. Keep in mind that having a constant clock or vcore doesn't really harm the cpu. What harms it more is running high amperage AND vcore through it, which doesn't happen when idle. If you have a constant voltage but the current is less, the energy amount is less, and so is the heat.
> So no worries there! You just get to save $5 on a yearly basis lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob E.*
> 
> You need to enable CPU EIST. That's the cpu stepping (downclocking) at idle by lowering the multiplier. Sleep states (c states) don't control that function.


thank you guys im going to set the Vcore llc to turbo and enable cpu eist. also do i have to set the phase mode to extreme or should i just leave it as auto?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> TLDR version: setting UD5H with 2500k to 1.35vcore in BIOS (F14) gets me 1.5v actual vcore instead of 1.35v
> Ok people, there are MAJOR problems with the F14 UD5H BIOS.
> I flashed to F14 a week or two ago but hadn't really sat down with the BIOS and tested to make sure everything was working properly until now. When I first got the UD5H + 2500k, I tested to find the highest, safe, conservative overclock for the 2500k CPU and it came out to 4.5ghz w/ 1.35vcore.
> I had been running the CPU at 4ghz since I didn't really need the extra power but today I decided to crank it back up to 4.5 ghz for the first time with the F14 BIOS. After raising the clock back to 4.5ghz and setting vcore to 1.35v, I started to run Intel burn test just to make sure everything was good and I got some HORRIBLE temps coming back:
> 
> I couldn't figure out what was going on because my usual temps at 4.5ghz were in the low 70's then I open CPU-Z and it says my vcore is running at 1.5v, even though I only set it to 1.35v in BIOS. As soon as I notice the vcore and temps, it's just getting done with 2 runs of IBT and I immediately go to shut it down. Right then, I hear a snap/pop rice crispy sound come from my PC. The last time I heard a sound like that was right before I watched an ASRock board catch on fire.
> This makes me really mad that through no fault of my own, I have probably degraded/damaged the hell out of my CPU and maybe even damaged the motherboard or both at the same time.
> Just so you know this isn't a CPUZ or temperature readout error, here's what my PC looks like running 4ghz with 1.3v on F14 BIOS:
> 
> The only overclock related settings I had changed in BIOS for both pictures are the following settings:
> Vcore: 1.35vcore for 4.5ghz and 1.3vcore for 4ghz
> PWM Phase control: eXm Perf
> LLC: High
> All other voltages on "Normal", not "Auto"
> Memory: 1600mhz, 7-8-7-24 @ 1.45v


Hey can you try this: First load optimized defaults. Then clear the CMOS, like really clear it. Take out the battery, disconnect the PSU, and then hit the button. Then load back up and load optimized defaults. Then see if it does that again. Also did you leave the board on auto vcore?


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey can you try this: First load optimized defaults. Then clear the CMOS, like really clear it. Take out the battery, disconnect the PSU, and then hit the button. Then load back up and load optimized defaults. Then see if it does that again. Also did you leave the board on auto vcore?


I tried resetting BIOS and loading optimized defaults, the problem is still there. The last BIOS I used before this was F7 and I flashed from F7 to F14.

I didn't have any voltage on auto for the screenshots. I set vcore manually to 1.35v for 4.5ghz and 1.3v for 4ghz. All other voltages were set to "normal", not "auto".

F14 has some kind of bug for my 2500k that gives me 1.5v or higher when I set vcore to 1.35v in BIOS.


----------



## sixor

irst 11.6 on intel website


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> I tried resetting BIOS and loading optimized defaults, the problem is still there. The last BIOS I used before this was F7 and I flashed from F7 to F14.
> I didn't have any voltage on auto for the screenshots. I set vcore manually to 1.35v for 4.5ghz and 1.3v for 4ghz. All other voltages were set to "normal", not "auto".
> F14 has some kind of bug for my 2500k that gives me 1.5v or higher when I set vcore to 1.35v in BIOS.


yea i will make sure to report this.


----------



## Khaled G

I have a question: what is this ?


----------



## Jong1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jong1*
> 
> Thanks Sin. My idle core temps are <=30C so I'm pretty happy. I guess it gets a bit more complex as the PC comes out of idle, the vcore difference between offset and fixed starts to drop, but the current rises, but I doubt the difference in power draw is ever that significant.
> Still, much as I say I am happy with fixed vcore (and I am) the curious side of me is really bugged by why it seems impossible to get this system stable with offset voltage. I have tried all different phase control, LLC and voltage response settings, reduced the overclock to 4.2, even slacked off memory timings. It really doesn't seem to like variable vcore. About all I can think of, other than a MB issue, is the power supply is not up to it, but that is a Corsair TX, so really should have good enough response and it is fine with a fixed voltage.
> Any thoughts?


Hey sin, sorry to bump and if you don't reply to this I will never bump it again! But, just in case you missed this post, any thoughts?

My system really does seem hopeless resuming from S3 if I try to use an offset. Doesn't matter what voltage I try or what I do with Phase Control/LLC/Voltage Response. Phase Control seems to help but not enough to get stability.

I'm not that bothered - 1.26 VCore is not so high for 24/7, the temps are fine at idle/low load and the additional power draw of a fixed voltage seems negligible. Still it niggles me! Offset SHOULD work! Any insights are most welcome


----------



## AP514

Hey

Anyone know what was changed from *GA-Z77X-D3H Rev 1.0* to Rev. 1.1 ???


----------



## pushaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> irst 11.6 on intel website


some people have problem with this version..me to - installed,but its not responding,even after few reboots
back to 11.2.0.1006


----------



## chatumbabub

Hi,
I have problem with my PC and hopefully someone could help me.

*My setup:*
GA-Z77X-UD5H *new F14 bios*
i7-2600K
Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC 2GB (11200-01-20G)
Patriot G2 Series 16GB (2x 8GB) 1333MHz (PGD316G1333ELK)
Enermax ErPRO80+ 500W

When I try to wake up computer from sleep it will cause bool failure (not every time, but mostly).
If I hit the Enter Bios button and then close the bios without saving. Computer will boot. In OS is computer rock stable.

Any idea how to fix it?

Thanks.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Clear CMOS
up your (raise) voltage
Try this;
VTT -1.12v~1.15v
IMC-1.05
VDDR-1.66v


----------



## ivanlabrie

Guys, want to post your ram oc results with this board?
I have some issues with mine, so I thought of this...
Can you guys post bios version, ram stick brand and model, timings and clocks? (also cpu might be nice)
Thanks!


----------



## gizmo83

[quote name="Sin0822" yea i will make sure to report this.[/quote]

Thanks Sin. We all are waiting for a new optimized bios for ud5h. I hope also Gigabyte include a way to manage better and control the speed of system fans.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> Thanks Sin. We all are waiting for a new optimized bios for ud5h. I hope also Gigabyte include a way to manage better and control the speed of system fans.


Yes I hope so too, system fans didn't work last time I checked. That was before the latest official bios, I haven't used it since...


----------



## Rob E.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chatumbabub*
> 
> Hi,
> I have problem with my PC and hopefully someone could help me.
> *My setup:*
> GA-Z77X-UD5H *new F14 bios*
> i7-2600K
> Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC 2GB (11200-01-20G)
> Patriot G2 Series 16GB (2x 8GB) 1333MHz (PGD316G1333ELK)
> Enermax ErPRO80+ 500W
> When I try to wake up computer from sleep it will cause bool failure (not every time, but mostly).
> If I hit the Enter Bios button and then close the bios without saving. Computer will boot. In OS is computer rock stable.
> Any idea how to fix it?
> Thanks.


May or may not help... just a thought... You (should) have an XMP profile for that memory. Suggest you enable it.... should be running @ 1600MHz. 9-9-9-24

I'm running mine @ 1866MHz. 10-10-10-24 (not reco'ing this - just mentioning)


----------



## Dhalmel

Just wanted to comment about the "headphone amp" that I'm pleasantly surprised that this board can drive 600 ohm phones to very listenable levels.

When I saw the headphone amp advertising on the box I thought it was just some gimmic marketing nonsense, but I was very wrong.
Using Beyerdynamic DT 990 600ohm directly to the motherboard's front L/R port, no audible noise at all.

It does sound "flat" compared to my external dac, but very good for on board sound.


----------



## copelander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> I finally got it to work, apparently Q-flash won't read bios images stored on a NTFS-Formatted flash/usb-hard drive / drive, had to reformat my flash drive FAT32 and it worked.
> Also apparently the blue-screens I had before from F17 was not entirely related to the new bios image... one of my 4 hard raid'd hard drives was dying and is now dead, so...


So, did you keep it on f7 or flash back to f17? My board shipped with f7 and i tried to flash to f17 last night but it wouldn't recognize my OCZ SSD and thus wouldn't run windows. I downloaded another copy of f7 onto my usb drive from another computer (because I'm a moron and forgot to save it when I flashed) and was able to reflash to 7 and it recognized the drive. I was thinking it might have been a firmware update issue, but I checked today and my firmware is up to date. Sooooo... maybe it's just one of those things where I should try flashing to 17 a couple more times to see whether it will recognize the drive. OR, i could just leave it alone and deal with the few USB bugs I get on occasion.


----------



## pakostel

Originally Posted by chatumbabub View Post

Hi,
I have problem with my PC and hopefully someone could help me.
My setup:
GA-Z77X-UD5H new F14 bios
i7-2600K
Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC 2GB (11200-01-20G)
Patriot G2 Series 16GB (2x 8GB) 1333MHz (PGD316G1333ELK)
Enermax ErPRO80+ 500W
When I try to wake up computer from sleep it will cause bool failure (not every time, but mostly).
If I hit the Enter Bios button and then close the bios without saving. Computer will boot. In OS is computer rock stable.
Any idea how to fix it?
Thanks.

I have the same problem with my gigabyte 7950 . It a video card problem and not the motherboard.So far i don't think that there is a solution for this problem other that don't put your computer on sleep.
I have a ssd and i never use sleep or hibernate.

hope this helps


----------



## Gregar Forte

Hi,I have a question.As the clear CMOS jumper is two-pin type,can I hook something like front panel reset switch and push the reset button to clear the CMOS?It is so hard to OC as when the overclock is not stable,it cant boot into bios and I need to clear CMOS.tq


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregar Forte*
> 
> Hi,I have a question.As the clear CMOS jumper is two-pin type,can I hook something like front panel reset switch and push the reset button to clear the CMOS?It is so hard to OC as when the overclock is not stable,it cant boot into bios and I need to clear CMOS.tq


yes


----------



## Gregar Forte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yes


thanks a lot..


----------



## barkeater

I accidentally posted this somewhere else and intended it for here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1310377/ud5h-does-not-want-to-downclock-anymore


----------



## Sdg1973

Anyone experiencing problems with the x16 PCI-e lane not working? My machine was working absolutely fine - i5-2500k at 4.7ghz, GTX670OC in a UD3H board. Went to LAN party, played fine. Came home, no signal to monitor.

It works in the x8 lane slot. I've tried rolling back the BIOS (was running at F17 at the LAN party). I also updated the gigabyte GTX670 card to F4 BIOS. Just seems weird that it suddenly stopped working.

I tried a mate's old GTX290 and that doesn't work in the x16 lane either.

Any suggestions?

Cheers

Sean


----------



## chris-br

Hi,

Just got the ud5h and I5-3570k, looking for a profile with a 4.5 oc on the f14 bios...

For some reason, my cpu is running @ 3.8 the whole time...

But is nice and fast.

Thanks for the help in advance


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sdg1973*
> 
> Anyone experiencing problems with the x16 PCI-e lane not working? My machine was working absolutely fine - i5-2500k at 4.7ghz, GTX670OC in a UD3H board. Went to LAN party, played fine. Came home, no signal to monitor.
> It works in the x8 lane slot. I've tried rolling back the BIOS (was running at F17 at the LAN party). I also updated the gigabyte GTX670 card to F4 BIOS. Just seems weird that it suddenly stopped working.
> I tried a mate's old GTX290 and that doesn't work in the x16 lane either.
> Any suggestions?
> Cheers
> Sean


RMA the board, sounds like a failure or something. Perhaps try cleaning the pins?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Hi,
> Just got the ud5h and I5-3570k, looking for a profile with a 4.5 oc on the f14 bios...
> For some reason, my cpu is running @ 3.8 the whole time...
> But is nice and fast.
> Thanks for the help in advance


You can always try one of my old ones, just make sure to go in an enable CPU PLL Overvoltage. I would set 45x, enable CPu PLl OV, and then leave the turbo options on auto and then disable the power savings.

What software are you using to read the frequency?


----------



## ivanlabrie

I've sent him a pm with that exact advice lol


----------



## chris-br

I'm using cpuz, but having issues with prime, always dropping a worker or system just rebooting.

EDIT, what power savings settings?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Add vcore slowly, if dropping workers. Use ver 27.7 of Prime95...Your ram is running stock?


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Add vcore slowly, if dropping workers. Use ver 27.7 of Prime95...Your ram is running stock?


yes, using xmp profile.


----------



## ivanlabrie

What clocks? Perhaps that's what's killing your overclock.
Test small fft's or that custom test I pm'd you about, and see if it crashes. If it doesn't, then boot with memtest86+ from a bootable flash drive and give it 4 passes.
If those are error free, try superpi 32m, and then go for prime95 blend with 85% ram.
Sometimes you need to raise the vtt voltage for your ram oc to be stable. If adding vcore doesn't solve your instability at least.


----------



## chris-br

Running factory... 1600 8 8 8 24


----------



## ivanlabrie

You should have no problem with that...Try 0.005v vcore increments and retry prime95 custom test.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> You should have no problem with that...Try 0.005v vcore increments and retry prime95 custom test.


Doing small ffts right now wit vcopre at 1,315v and no workers going down, temps are good too


----------



## mfarlow

A little background first. I originally purchased the UD5H back in June. First one wouldn't post at all. It had power to the power switch, but nothing would happen when I pushed it. I took it back for a replacement and everything worked flawlessly with the new board. It has been running fine since that time. one thing I didn't realize is that the @Bios software was running on my PC. I must have installed it as part of the driver install process and didn't realize it. I found out when I came home a few weeks ago to see @BIOS running and attempting to download a new BIOS update. I let it do its thing even though I've never updated a BIOS like this before.

Fast forward to 2 days ago. I boot up my PC and get a message that my BIOS is corrupt, and that it's loading the backup BIOS. That's fine I think, when I have time this weekend I'll update the first BIOS and all should be well. Yesterday when I try to boot I get no love. The PC powers up the fans for a second, I hear a click coming from what appears to be the z77 chipset area, some strange character flashes on the debug display, and then it shuts down. A few seconds later same thing happens. It just keeps doing this over and over.

I pulled out everything but 1 stick of ram, and no difference. I decide to call it a night and pick up again today. Today same thing happens, I try clearing the CMOS, manually switching the BIOS, leaving it unplugged for a couple of hours, swapping the ram to a different slot, no change.

Now it won't even power up. The power button still lights up, I hit the power button and nothing, doesn't even click or power up the fans.

So the changes that I am aware of:
1. a recent BIOS update, but it seemed to work fine after that update.
2. I recently plugged my case fans into the MB headers as my fan controller died. I set the fan profile to silent. It seemed to work fine for a number of days after that change.
There have been no new software installs or updates that I'm aware of.

I've contacted Gigabyte support, but have yet to receive a reply.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As it stands I can't even get to a point where I can flash the BIOS.

Here are my components:
GA-Z77X-UDH-5H
i5 3570K
8GB (4x2) GSkill Ripsjaw X 1600
Sapphire HD 6950
Seasonic X750
Mushkin Chronos 120GB
Seagate Barracuda 7200 3TB
Corsair 650D


----------



## barkeater

OK, first thing, don't panic.

Now, because of the things you described, I think it is safe to say you have a major problem somewhere, and patience is necessary to find out where.

First thing to do is pull everything out of your case. You are going to test one thing at a time as best you can and then hopefully find the gremlin.

First thing that needs to be tested is your power supply. If you don't have another working computer handy that you can swap your Seasonic into (preferable), you can test the power supply by using a paper clip (metal) to short the green wire with any of the black wires on the main power plug (22 pin). Directions here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to-jump-start-a-power-supply-psu-test-a-power-supply-and-components

If your power supply fan kicks on then you can assume all is well. Better yet, get yourself a multimeter from radioshak for $20 and test a few of the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V pins.

If power supply checks out then you move on to the mobo. Place on a cardboard box with only the cpu and cpu cooler installed. Plug in the power supply to mobo, and finally plug power into wall. flip the power supply switch to on, and you should see a led go on on board . If not, then your board is toast and you need to rma. If the LED comes on then you want to short the pins for the power switch. You can use a small flat head screwdriver for this. Check your manual as to which two pins belong to the power switch. Once you touch the two pins with screwdriver, the cpu fan should kick on. If not, then either you board is toast or something wrong with cpu or the cpu cooler fan. Again, if you have a multimeter, you can test a few of the power supply's plugs and make sure you are getting reasonable readings. If you don't get either 3.3V, 5V or 12V reading, then its the mobo. If the cpu fan spins up as expected, then switch the power supply off, unplug and slap a stick of ram in slot closest to cpu and plug in power supply and flip power supply switch to on. If cpu fan spins up ok, then turn off power supply and install your gpu. Keep going piece by piece until you find the culprit. Make sure along each step you look closely at everything and look for any signs of trouble like small bit of smoke or burning smell. You'll want to turn off your power supply in a hurry if that happens.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> OK, first thing, don't panic.
> 
> Now, because of the things you described, I think it is safe to say you have a major problem somewhere, and patience is necessary to find out where.
> 
> First thing to do is pull everything out of your case. You are going to test one thing at a time as best you can and then hopefully find the gremlin.
> 
> First thing that needs to be tested is your power supply. If you don't have another working computer handy that you can swap your Seasonic into (preferable), you can test the power supply by using a paper clip (metal) to short the green wire with any of the black wires on the main power plug (22 pin). Directions here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to-jump-start-a-power-supply-psu-test-a-power-supply-and-components
> 
> If your power supply fan kicks on then you can assume all is well. Better yet, get yourself a multimeter from radioshak for $20 and test a few of the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V pins.
> 
> If power supply checks out then you move on to the mobo. Place on a cardboard box with only the cpu and cpu cooler installed. Plug in the power supply to mobo, and finally plug power into wall. flip the power supply switch to on, and you should see a led go on on board . If not, then your board is toast and you need to rma. If the LED comes on then you want to short the pins for the power switch. You can use a small flat head screwdriver for this. Check your manual as to which two pins belong to the power switch. Once you touch the two pins with screwdriver, the cpu fan should kick on. If not, then either you board is toast or something wrong with cpu or the cpu cooler fan. Again, if you have a multimeter, you can test a few of the power supply's plugs and make sure you are getting reasonable readings. If you don't get either 3.3V, 5V or 12V reading, then its the mobo. If the cpu fan spins up as expected, then switch the power supply off, unplug and slap a stick of ram in slot closest to cpu and plug in power supply and flip power supply switch to on. If cpu fan spins up ok, then turn off power supply and install your gpu. Keep going piece by piece until you find the culprit. Make sure along each step you look closely at everything and look for any signs of trouble like small bit of smoke or burning smell. You'll want to turn off your power supply in a hurry if that happens.


Man, that is awesome advice. I think it's killer that people are willing to be so helpful at a forum like this. I've copied and pasted that advice into an archived how-to text file for a day that hopefully never comes (for me).


----------



## Sin0822

Yea stick around here, there are a lot of good folks willing to help.


----------



## mfarlow

barkeater, thanks for the timely reply. That's my standard test procedure.

PSU tests fine, and works in another system without issue. I'm getting power to the board no problem. Here is a detailed description of the problem:

1. Switch on on-board power button. (Power switch on the board is lit up)
2. CPU fan spins up.
3. I get some odd character on the debug LED. BIOS LED blinks on then off.
4. Everything shuts down.
5. Process repeats without me having to push anything. This continues about 4 times then stops.
6. Power button no longer functions.
7. Clearing cmos allows power button to function again, and the process repeats as described in steps 1-6

Currently my MB is on cardboard with only PSU CPU and 1 stick of RAM. I tried without the RAM and it made no difference.

So what we know:
1. PSU is good. It powers system if even temporarily, and works fine in another system. Replacing the PSU with one from another system has same results.
2. I believe RAM to be good, but don't have another system to test in. I have 2 sticks, have tried both sticks individually with the same results. It is possible that both sticks are bad, but I would expect unlikely. Still these aren't confirmed good.
3. CPU state unkown. I have no way to test the CPU outside of this system.
4. MB cannot be verified. There's nothing left for me to swap out.

I'll try using a VM on all PSU pins once I get my toolbox back.


----------



## chris-br

Well. got mine stable @ 1,320v.







temp are 70-80 doing 20 ibt passes at maximum.

Now my question.. do i really need to turn off all the energy savings options?
More, i really dont like prime95, even so, i did over 2 hours with custon;max mem and no errors, should i do more? its mainly a gaming machine, hardly maxing out the cpu...

Thanks for all the good help already given and for the ones coming. ;P


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Well. got mine stable @ 1,320v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> temp are 70-80 doing 20 ibt passes at maximum.
> Now my question.. do i really need to turn off all the energy savings options?
> More, i really dont like prime95, even so, i did over 2 hours with custon;max mem and no errors, should i do more? its mainly a gaming machine, hardly maxing out the cpu...
> Thanks for all the good help already given and for the ones coming. ;P


I'm perfectly stable after testing custom test with 36k min and max size fft's for 30 min, and checking I get no WHEA errors in the Event Viewer (under Windows logs, System)
Just for the heck of it I run Prime95 blend, custom test with 90% of my ram and 5min test duration for 6hs and I fold like 14hs a day)


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfarlow*
> 
> barkeater, thanks for the timely reply. That's my standard test procedure.
> PSU tests fine, and works in another system without issue. I'm getting power to the board no problem. Here is a detailed description of the problem:
> 1. Switch on on-board power button. (Power switch on the board is lit up)
> 2. CPU fan spins up.
> 3. I get some odd character on the debug LED. BIOS LED blinks on then off.
> 4. Everything shuts down.
> 5. Process repeats without me having to push anything. This continues about 4 times then stops.
> 6. Power button no longer functions.
> 7. Clearing cmos allows power button to function again, and the process repeats as described in steps 1-6
> Currently my MB is on cardboard with only PSU CPU and 1 stick of RAM. I tried without the RAM and it made no difference.
> So what we know:
> 1. PSU is good. It powers system if even temporarily, and works fine in another system. Replacing the PSU with one from another system has same results.
> 2. I believe RAM to be good, but don't have another system to test in. I have 2 sticks, have tried both sticks individually with the same results. It is possible that both sticks are bad, but I would expect unlikely. Still these aren't confirmed good.
> 3. CPU state unkown. I have no way to test the CPU outside of this system.
> 4. MB cannot be verified. There's nothing left for me to swap out.
> I'll try using a VM on all PSU pins once I get my toolbox back.


what is the post code error?


----------



## barkeater

when you cleared the cmos did you use the button on the board or did you use the jumper? I'd suggest doing a hard cmos reset by the following.

with the power plugged into wall but off:

pull battery and flip over and reinstall
set cmos jumper to reset
press power button on mobo and hold for 2 min
wait 5 min and then reset jumper to normal and reseat battery the right way

are you getting any system beeps along the way?

You could try with the graphics card in (or use the internal graphics) and connect your monitor to see if you are getting anything on display when this looping is occuring.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> when you cleared the cmos did you use the button on the board or did you use the jumper? I'd suggest doing a hard cmos reset by the following.
> 
> with the power plugged into wall but off:
> pull battery and flip over and reinstall
> set cmos jumper to reset
> press power button on mobo and hold for *2 min*
> wait *5 min* and then reset jumper to normal and reseat battery the right way
> are you getting any system beeps along the way?
> You could try with the graphics card in (or use the internal graphics) and connect your monitor to see if you are getting anything on display when this looping is occuring.











@mfarlow when you install your single stick of RAM have you heard audible "click" ? make sure your RAM sits all the way in ,try different memory


----------



## mfarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> what is the post code error?


It's a character which isn't listed in the manual (something like this crude drawing):

|-
|_|

Usually there are 2 digits, this is a single digit, and it doesn't look like any alpha-numeric character.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

@mfarlow
Just my two cents, here.
You said a bios update happened on its own [*], and you changed a fan controller. In which order that happened?

Also, and I am actually asking a question to members who knows better than me: when one changes a bios, what happens to the custom settings? Could it be the user found himself with messed up settings that could have caused its system to overheat?

Question to user: could it be that the fan controller malfunctioned causing the system to overheat?
What were your temps, when everything worked fine?

@ barkeater: nice walkthrough! Kudos.

[*] God, how I hate when software takes control in this way...


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I'm perfectly stable after testing custom test with 36k min and max size fft's for 30 min, and checking I get no WHEA errors in the Event Viewer (under Windows logs, System)
> Just for the heck of it I run Prime95 blend, custom test with 90% of my ram and 5min test duration for 6hs and I fold like 14hs a day)


I really don't like prime95, but i did custom with mim 1344 and max 1344 with 1 min test for 35mins, plus i did the 20 runs of IBT at maximum (temps hit 80c max), no errors, also nothing on event logs.
So guess i am good. Now 'im just ordering why i cant use any power savings? I do like the ideia of the pc powering down when i'm not gaming.

it's 1,320volts too much?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> I really don't like prime95, but i did custom with mim 1344 and max 1344 with 1 min test for 35mins, plus i did the 20 runs of IBT at maximum (temps hit 80c max), no errors, also nothing on event logs.
> So guess i am good. Now 'im just ordering why i cant use any power savings? I do like the ideia of the pc powering down when i'm not gaming.
> it's 1,320volts too much?


I guess you are...Try looping 3dmark11 and Heaven if you wish to test your gaming stability.

As for power savings, you CAN use those, it's just trickier to figure out the correct voltages.
For example, you might need to disable llc and use a higher offset voltage so that your idle voltage remains enough for light load stability.
Save your stable profile in the bios and give offsets a try.


----------



## mfarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> @mfarlow
> Just my two cents, here.
> You said a bios update happened on its own [*], and you changed a fan controller. In which order that happened?
> Also, and I am actually asking a question to members who knows better than me: when one changes a bios, what happens to the custom settings? Could it be the user found himself with messed up settings that could have caused its system to overheat?
> Question to user: could it be that the fan controller malfunctioned causing the system to overheat?
> What were your temps, when everything worked fine?
> @ barkeater: nice walkthrough! Kudos.
> [*] God, how I hate when software takes control in this way...


I had @bios installed, which downloads and installs bios updates. It did ask me to confirm, but I hit yes before I realized what software this was. I've never updated a bios through the OS before, and didn't intend to this time either. Still that was about a month ago, and the system worked just fine afterwards.

The fan change was only last week. I noticed one of my case fans wasn't running, and diagnosed it to a faulty fan controller. temps in the case were only off by 2 degrees so I wasn't overly concerned, my system runs very cool. Once I found the bad controller, I just swapped that fan to a header on the MB, and updated the fan setting in the BIOS to the silent profile. AFAIK this only affects the sys_fan headers not the CPU, which was still running cool after the change. Again the system was running fine for a week afterwards.

At this point I can't even get a response from the MB, no lights (except power button), no debug digits, nothing. I think it's time for a new MB. As much as I like the MB, this will be the 3rd one, and I'm not looking forward to more issues.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I guess you are...Try looping 3dmark11 and Heaven if you wish to test your gaming stability.
> As for power savings, you CAN use those, it's just trickier to figure out the correct voltages.
> For example, you might need to disable llc and use a higher offset voltage so that your idle voltage remains enough for light load stability.
> Save your stable profile in the bios and give offsets a try.


Well. since your advices did work for me. +rep for you.


----------



## Sin0822

mfarlow can you take a picture of the POST code? it would be helpful, there are some codes not listed in the manual which are used for internal debugging.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Well. since your advices did work for me. +rep for you.


Great to hear...and thanks


----------



## mfarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> mfarlow can you take a picture of the POST code? it would be helpful, there are some codes not listed in the manual which are used for internal debugging.


It happens so quick that I doubt I'd be able to get a pic. It's not a real character, so I don't think it's an actual code, more like the debug display going wonky.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfarlow*
> 
> It happens so quick that I doubt I'd be able to get a pic. It's not a real character, so I don't think it's an actual code, more like the debug display going wonky.


Can you make a short video?


----------



## AlphaC

F17 BIOS,GA-Z77XX-UD3H

Cannot change BCLK? (greyed out)


----------



## Khaled G

Is it me ? or the F7 is the most stable BIOS version ? I have no compliance about it. (so far).


----------



## mfarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Can you make a short video?


Well now it blinks on so fast I can't even make out what the character might be. Here's a link to the video. Sorry for the lack of quality.

Argh, can't get link to post for some reason.

Let's try it again...
http://www.4shared.com/video/6bUm5NvF/WP_20121001_200054Z_2.html


----------



## netham45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netham45*
> 
> I'm looking for a TPM for one of these (It has the header), does anyone know where I might be able to get one from? Having a difficult time finding anything on them.


If anyone is curious, I used THIS TPM with two of THESE to connect it, since that TPM has a PCB that sits behind the connector and thus doesn't fit into the socket on the UD3H.

Works great, have bitlocker going. Using the MS drivers since the drivers that came with it cause Bitlocker to whine, though they seem surprisingly well done otherwise.


----------



## Yutty

Hi, can somone help me out. I got a Z77-DS3H, when I got it it was on bios F6 out of the box I immediately flashed it successfully to the latest F8. I am trying to overclock my i-5 3570k but in advance bios it does not let me change any of the multipliers. I was able to change my ram from the default 1333 to 1600 by changing the profile but nothing in the options lets me change the clock speed or even the turbo speed.

What I found that did work was in the 3d bios I could manually change the clock speed from 3.4 by sliding the bar to whatever I want. After a reboot the cpu is running the 4.1 ghz that i set. When i got back into advanced bio it shows the 4.1 clock speed but i can't adjust it still. Now the thing I want to do is overclock the turbo boost from 3.8 to 4.1. I don't want my computer running at 4.1 ghz all the time, i'd prefer to leave it at 3.4 and have turbo kick it up to 4.1 when its needed.

Any what to make this happend? I saw a youtube vid where the guy was able to do this manually in advanced bios but i can't.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Anyone using Linux with this board (GA Z77x UD5H)?
I was on the verge of finally buying it (after pondering the purchase of a more expensive UP5TH instead) when I read an Amazon comment that says it has problems with sound in Linux (no output coming out of the green connector). The buyer says "new boards" do not have this issues but old boards that come with Bios F5 do (like those sold by my local Amazon store). I did a quick internet search for sound problems and found this:

http://www.tonymacx86.com/audio/66618-ga-z77x-ud5h-audio-green-port-problem-solved-welding-2-resistances.html

Someone allegedly solved the problem in Linux by *soldering* (removing?) two resistances. The details were removed on request of the manufacturer, and one of the posters says GB position is that there are no sound issues with the UD5H.

So, what gives?
Was this a hardware problem silently solved in later 'revisions' of this board? How can I ask the seller to verify the board he's selling me is not affected if new boards are not marked as different revisions? I cannot ask Amazon to check the bios version...
Or is this a problem that was solved with a Bios release and the guy at tonymax86 was only a tad too much impatient?
(But then, the Amazon poster would have solved it too by upgrading the bios, would he not?)

Anyone using Linux that can confirm or deny this problem (it would be nice to have a way to assess the manufacturing date of the mobo, or at least know the version of BIOS it came with).

PS
I plan to use this board with Debian variants of Linux (and Win7 64bit).
And, please, please, please FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, DO NOT MENTION ASUS TO ME.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> Anyone using Linux with this board (GA Z77x UD5H)?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I was on the verge of finally buying it (after pondering the purchase of a more expensive UP5TH instead) when I read an Amazon comment that says it has problems with sound in Linux (no output coming out of the green connector). The buyer says "new boards" do not have this issues but old boards that come with Bios F5 do (like those sold by my local Amazon store). I did a quick internet search for sound problems and found this:
> http://www.tonymacx86.com/audio/66618-ga-z77x-ud5h-audio-green-port-problem-solved-welding-2-resistances.html
> Someone allegedly solved the problem in Linux by *soldering* (removing?) two resistances. The details were removed on request of the manufacturer, and one of the posters says GB position is that there are no sound issues with the UD5H.
> So, what gives?
> Was this a hardware problem silently solved in later 'revisions' of this board? How can I ask the seller to verify the board he's selling me is not affected if new boards are not marked as different revisions? I cannot ask Amazon to check the bios version...
> Or is this a problem that was solved with a Bios release and the guy at tonymax86 was only a tad too much impatient?
> (But then, the Amazon poster would have solved it too by upgrading the bios, would he not?)
> Anyone using Linux that can confirm or deny this problem (it would be nice to have a way to assess the manufacturing date of the mobo, or at least know the version of BIOS it came with).
> PS
> I plan to use this board with Debian variants of Linux (and Win7 64bit).
> And, please, please, please FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, DO NOT MENTION ASUS TO ME.


I didn't know that such problem existed. I just launched my 5 month old Ubuntu installation that I use in case if Windows goes nuts. I never tried to check the audio until this moment lol. It seems that some people say it's BIOS or hardware issue, and the other blame Ubuntu, and Mac OX for that. The interesting thing is why Windows is fine... Maybe Realtek drivers for Windows do the trick?

BTW I have the first revision of the board that has blue caps and space between dimms. It may be fixed in the new one with purple caps and no space. Also I have F14 UEFI running...


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It seems that some people say it's BIOS or hardware issue, and the other blame Ubuntu, and Mac OX for that. The interesting thing is why Windows is fine... Maybe Realtek drivers for Windows do the trick?


But then, why should soldering two resistors work? By redirecting the output of one the 5+1 channel to the green connector?
(And why Gigabyte has had those instructions removed, if they supplied the info to a customer in the first place? To say that there are no problems with the audio?
It reminds me of Comical Alì: "_I assure you: there are no US troops within a hundred miles from Baghdad_"







)

From what I've read, this problem is not present on the UP5 which (I haven't checked) uses the same audio IC. I believe that audio drivers in Linux and MacOs would be the same for the UP5 and the UD5.
That is, the same Mac or Linux OS that would give no audio with the UD5 would work with the UP5.
Quote:


> BTW I have the first revision of the board that has blue caps and space between dimms. It may be fixed in the new one with purple caps and no space. Also I have F14 UEFI running...


It would be nice to have someone who has an UD5 with the purple caps (or one that came with bios F7 from the manufactuer) to confirm that the problem has been solved.
There is no need to install Linux on the hard drive (even if it is extremely useful to recover from Windows crashed). Just loading a Live Linux Distro (Like Ubuntu, Knoppix, Mepis, there are tons of them) would do.

Also, should that be the case: how can we tell from the box that the board is one of the "new batch"?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> But then, why should soldering two resistors work? By redirecting the output of one the 5+1 channel to the green connector?


My guess is that removing resistors does what software should do in the first place... I mean that's the only thing that should make sense. Since hardware works in Windows, the only reason why it doesn't on Linux is software/driver related.
Quote:


> It would be nice to have someone who has an UD5 with the purple caps (or one that came with bios F7 from the manufactuer) to confirm that the problem has been solved.


Would like to know that too...
Quote:


> Also, should that be the case: how can we tell from the box that the board is one of the "new batch"?


There is no way as far as I can tell. My box only has serial number and revision (which is 1.0 for both "revisions"), and a check number.

On the other hand, the box of Gigabyte boards isn't sealed, so...


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I didn't know that such problem existed. I just launched my 5 month old Ubuntu installation that I use in case if Windows goes nuts. I never tried to check the audio until this moment lol. It seems that some people say it's BIOS or hardware issue, and the other blame Ubuntu, and Mac OX for that. The interesting thing is why Windows is fine... Maybe Realtek drivers for Windows do the trick?
> BTW I have the first revision of the board that has blue caps and space between dimms. It may be fixed in the new one with purple caps and no space. Also I have F14 UEFI running...


what's all this blue/purple/space and no space ..mambo jambo ..am i missing something ?


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> what's all this blue/purple/space and no space ..mambo jambo ..am i missing something ?


From what I've read so far, the first Gigabyte mobos that were sent to reviewers (and probably the first batch that hit the stores) had blue capped capacitors. The latest ones have purple capped capacitors. This is no big deal, could only mean that Gigabyte has changed supplier, or rating (to an equivalent one) or the cap manufacturer has changed the ink .
The other thing that seems different (IF I got i right?) is the spacing between memory sockets (I don't remember which one has more spacing between the middle two) that makes me think of a redrawing of the PCB. This could matter since layouts usually do not redraw themselves.

Could it be the revision 1.1 has hit the stores in stealth mode (that is, disguised as version 1.0)?
That would be good news (for new buyers, that is







)

Any word from Gigabyte, Sin?


----------



## thepuff

I just got off the phone with Gigabyte to ask about the revision differences before I purchase. They stated that the only difference is that the board is shipped with the latest bios.


----------



## chris-br

Mine has the purple caps and came with the f7 bios, i rightway updated to the f14. Didnt notice the space on the memory slots, will have to check that later.

BTW, I noticed some thing wierd on mine, so i did set my vcore on bios to 1,320v. Ok, on windows, cpuz and HWinNFO64 shows the vcore @ 1,308v. Now, when i ran a strees test, like IBT, on full load, doesn't matter if is standart or maximun, the vcore drops to 1,284 and goes back to 1,296v.
Is that alright?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Mine has the purple caps and came with the f7 bios, i rightway updated to the f14. Didnt notice the space on the memory slots, will have to check that later.
> BTW, I noticed some thing wierd on mine, so i did set my vcore on bios to 1,320v. Ok, on windows, cpuz and HWinNFO64 shows the vcore @ 1,308v. Now, when i ran a strees test, like IBT, on full load, doesn't matter if is standart or maximun, the vcore drops to 1,284 and goes back to 1,296v.
> Is that alright?


Yep, that's vdroop right there.
It's nothing bad if your system is stable like that. If you want to overclock without changing multipliers when idle, you disable turbo and c-states and enable llc (load line calibration setting, prevents the vcore to drop under load, to a certain extent). You can find that setting in the 3d power section. Just set it to 'turbo' and you should be golden.


----------



## thepuff

Random question - does anyone know if the zalman CNPS12X will allow the G.Skill Turbulence II fans to fit on the GA-Z77X-D3H?


----------



## Sin0822

yea it should be fine:


The capacitors themselves are the same spec just different supplier. There is no rev 1.1. The UP5 would be the next step in the 5 series progression with regards to PCB routing and such, perhaps that is why I was able to do higher BCLK than I could with any other board. There has to be an actual change in part spec or placement for there to be a revision change. I can't give any official statement as I don't work for them, you would have to ask them about that.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea it should be fine:
> 
> The capacitors themselves are the same spec just different supplier. There is no rev 1.1. The UP5 would be the next step in the 5 series progression with regards to PCB routing and such, perhaps that is why I was able to do higher BCLK than I could with any other board. There has to be an actual change in part spec or placement for there to be a revision change. I can't give any official statement as I don't work for them, you would have to ask them about that.


Sin, is that a 7990 right there?









What's your best bclk yet?


----------



## Sin0822

actually NVM i am ot sure it will fit on the D3H i just noticed that is some older GB board.

My top BCLK is the WR for LGA1155 116.95mhz.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Yep, that's vdroop right there.
> It's nothing bad if your system is stable like that. If you want to overclock without changing multipliers when idle, you disable turbo and c-states and enable llc (load line calibration setting, prevents the vcore to drop under load, to a certain extent). You can find that setting in the 3d power section. Just set it to 'turbo' and you should be golden.


But then, i could do the same stable OC with lower vcore if was not the vdrop?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> But then, i could do the same stable OC with lower vcore if was not the vdrop?


Exactly, but only if you're not using offsets and turbo. Otherwise you might benefit from it...


----------



## chris-br

I'm not using turbo or offset


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Oh... look what I got....


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Exactly, but only if you're not using offsets and turbo. Otherwise you might benefit from it...


humm. so if im running stabe with 1,320, how much could i drop? maybe to 1,30?


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*
> 
> Oh... look what I got....


Damn nice


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> humm. so if im running stabe with 1,320, how much could i drop? maybe to 1,30?


What do you mean?
Check with cpu-z when doing prime95 runs...that's the real vcore under load. Using turbo llc it droops but very little. Check it yourself, depends on the board/chip.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> What do you mean?
> Check with cpu-z when doing prime95 runs...that's the real vcore under load. Using turbo llc it droops but very little. Check it yourself, depends on the board/chip.


Like, i did set to 1,305 now, but stills drop to 1,294v, so is having the same vdrop and before. Not staying at 1,305.









Edit: and yes, the llc is set as TURBO


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Mine has the purple caps and came with the f7 bios, i rightway updated to the f14.


Have you tried (will you try) a Linux distro to see if the audio is working?
Quote:


> Didnt notice the space on the memory slots, will have to check that later.


I believe that's important because *if* there is a different layout (even by a quarter of an inch) then there has been a redrawing of the PCB. And that is not something that happens without a sound[*] reason (who knows, maybe the ram were too close to the cpu slot and some cooler manufacturer has complained with Gigabyte).
By having two hires pictures of the (allegedly) different mobo it would be possibile to isolate the differences.

[*] Pun not intended. Well, maybe just a bit.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> The capacitors themselves are the same spec just different supplier.
> There is no rev 1.1. There has to be an actual change in part spec or placement for there to be a revision change.


But has there been a change in the layout? The dimm sockets have changed position with respect to the first mobos shipped?
Quote:


> I can't give any official statement as I don't work for them, you would have to ask them about that.


Of course, but you have far better contacts than the average customer. I've seen you reporting bugs and problems and soon after that a Bios revision came out with a solution. If I call Gigabyte (which I'll do) I will most likely get the official version of the story: "there is no audio problem with the Ga Z77x UD5H". [*]
And yet, at least another user in this forum has confirmed that there IS an audio problem with that board.

[*] They even made the instructions on how to fix the problem disappear - and that's not cool. Not at all.


----------



## ivanlabrie

If you disable it you might see a deeper vdroop. If it's stable at 1.32v why bother?


----------



## chris-br

I'm picky, wishing be able to run at a lower vcore, summer is coming and it gets really hot here.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Try one notch less on the multi, and see how much vcore that needs. Then you can play with bclk, that helped with temps and my max oc.


----------



## SpineyNole

I will be buying a new rig soon (in next 2 weeks), and am interested in the Z77X-UD5H. From the research I have done, there were a number of issues that people were having with this board earlier this year (freezing, BSODs, etc). Were these issues resolved? Is the Z77X-UD5H solid now? I would be interested in knowing what the fixes were if anyone has that information.

Also, what RAM have you used for this board that is rock solid. Not a big over-clocker, just want rock solid reliability and fast performance for GPGPU development (Nvidia KEPLER) with lots of RAM. Thanks.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> I would be interested in knowing what the fixes were if anyone has that information.


For me what fixed my freezes was removing my PCI sound card. Not one freeze since.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpineyNole*
> 
> I will be buying a new rig soon (in next 2 weeks), and am interested in the Z77X-UD5H. From the research I have done, there were a number of issues that people were having with this board earlier this year (freezing, BSODs, etc). Were these issues resolved? Is the Z77X-UD5H solid now? I would be interested in knowing what the fixes were if anyone has that information.
> Also, what RAM have you used for this board that is rock solid. Not a big over-clocker, just want rock solid reliability and fast performance for GPGPU development (Nvidia KEPLER) with lots of RAM. Thanks.


Well. i'm very satisfied with this board. you can see my rig on my sig.... i haven't seen any BSDO or freezes on my board so far, it has the purple caps, but still revision 1.0 ans with the latest bios (f14). Running the I5-3570k @ 4,5 and is rock solid and really really fast.. The board stays cool, i love the debug led display.


----------



## ivanlabrie

I would avoid the Samsung green ram if possible...Get some psc ram if you intend to overclock it and check the QVL at Gb's site.








Great all around board, rock solid and good customer service too. Can't go wrong!


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I would avoid the Samsung green ram if possible...Get some psc ram if you intend to overclock it and check the QVL at Gb's site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great all around board, rock solid and good customer service too. Can't go wrong!


Is there any problem with the Samsung Ram on Giga boards? I thought they fixed that recently with a Bio? Or was this because you couldn't get these past 2200Mhz on Giga boards?


----------



## ivanlabrie

It's supposedly fixed yet I couldn't go past 2200mhz no matter what, and I know these rams are capable of 2400mhz and so is my imc, I've done it before.
Also, I've heard it from others as well (Sin perhaps)


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> It's supposedly fixed yet I couldn't go past 2200mhz no matter what, and I know these rams are capable of 2400mhz and so is my imc, I've done it before.
> Also, I've heard it from others as well (Sin perhaps)


So you wouldn't recommend a Ram that can get 2200 mhz or 1.35V with Cas 9 *just because they can't go 2400Mhz*? SpineyNole didn't say he need 2400Mhz Ram and I am sure he would be more than pleased with *$45 of 8G1866 9-9-9-24 1.35V* -> the price/performance/voltage of these greens can't be beaten imo unless you really need that 1337 Mhz to show up on your CPU-Z validation.

If I recall the 2400 was tested on Techpowerup.com *on a X79 platform with a 3960X*, I wouldn't be suprised if Ivy IMCs just can't do it. Plus Spiney did say he uses a *i5*-3570K so extreme memory overclocking(2400+) is probably out of the question for him anyway.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Sherlock, you're at OCN, and I wouldn't reccomend it as the holy grail, not for this board and an Ivy chip. It is a good price/performance choice, and fits well under any cooler though...but it's not the best.
That aside I've seen you comment on another thread saying you have better things to do than test stability on ram, so I gather ram overclocking is not your thing. Fine then, take it easy









EDIT: btw, there's no way you can get 2200mhz cas9 with 1.35v, you'll need 1.65v or 1.575v for that...


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Sherlock, you're at OCN, and I wouldn't reccomend it as the holy grail, not for this board and an Ivy chip. It is a good price/performance choice, and fits well under any cooler though...but it's not the best.
> That aside I've seen you comment on another thread saying you have better things to do than test stability on ram, so I gather ram overclocking is not your thing. Fine then, take it easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: btw, there's no way you can get *2200mhz cas9 with 1.35v*, you'll need 1.65v or 1.575v for that...


Where did I say 2200Mhz cas 9 and 1.35V as a viable OC?? I said *1866 cas 9 and 1.35V* which I used for quite a long time and passed a few Prime blends before I moved onto *2133 9-10-10-26 1.5V* that passed 12 hour of Prime Blend. Both are quite good OCs on a limited Ivy i5 imc, and the user who asked for Ram commedenation(Spiney) would be please with.

Seriously, Which part of Spiney's question stated that he needed *2400Mhz Ram*??? Extreme Ram OC might not be my thing, but it also had no relation to his question/demand. Plus Rams that can OC better than Samsung would cost you a lot more plus showing no benefit except raising the bench score.

Also, what I said on the other thread is that I have better things to do than spending *35 hours running 5 7 hour Prime 95 Blend staggered by restart* just because someone's theory that they "might have thermal expansion problems at 2133 Mhz".

Also, this is OCN, not *2400 Mhz Ram or Bust.Net*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpineyNole*
> 
> I will be buying a new rig soon (in next 2 weeks), and am interested in the Z77X-UD5H. From the research I have done, there were a number of issues that people were having with this board earlier this year (freezing, BSODs, etc). Were these issues resolved? Is the Z77X-UD5H solid now? I would be interested in knowing what the fixes were if anyone has that information.
> Also, what RAM have you used for this board that is rock solid. *Not a big over-clocker*, just want rock solid reliability and fast performance for GPGPU development (Nvidia KEPLER) with *lots of RAM*. Thanks.


Unless I am blind, those text in bold doesn't say "2400 Mhz Ram", I am actually pretty sure that he would be pleased with some 1866Mhz Ram or even just 1600Mhz low voltage, which Samsung Green(even 4X4) could easily do on any board that recognizes them(which AFAIK is all current Z77 boards except MSI Mpower-pending a Bios fix)


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sredni Vashtar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Mine has the purple caps and came with the f7 bios, i rightway updated to the f14.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried (will you try) a Linux distro to see if the audio is working?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Didnt notice the space on the memory slots, will have to check that later.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I believe that's important because *if* there is a different layout (even by a quarter of an inch) then there has been a redrawing of the PCB. And that is not something that happens without a sound[*] reason (who knows, maybe the ram were too close to the cpu slot and some cooler manufacturer has complained with Gigabyte).
> By having two hires pictures of the (allegedly) different mobo it would be possibile to isolate the differences.
> 
> [*] Pun not intended. Well, maybe just a bit.
Click to expand...


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I was wondering if some of you OC'ing on a GA-Z77X-UD3 experts could help me out with some issues I've been having.

Need help with i7 2700K and GA-Z77X-UD3 overclocking

I just updated to ver 17 of the BIOS. Maybe that will help. Still would appreciate it if someone could look at it to see if I made a glaring mistake. Thanks.


----------



## Sredni Vashtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*


Khaled G, thanks a lot for taking the time to take these pictures (repped).
So, the mobo with purple caps and no spacing between memory slots is the new 'version'.
The blu capped and spaced dimms one is the old 'version'.

It appears there has been a rerouting that resulted in the bottom two memory slots to be pushed upwards. Some of the components nearby have slightly changed position. The printed information has also changed place. So someone in Gigabyte invested some time in redrawing the PCB layout.
Perhaps they had time and resources to spare. Or perhaps they fixed something that needed fixing.
The question is: what?

Sadly, the part with the audio connectors (where, presumably, the resistors had to be (de?)soldered) is not present or not clear and it's not possible to see if any change has occurred there. The back sides are the same for both boards?

_EDIT: Grammar, grammar, grammar. Try to imagine how bad it was before I made the last corrections..._


----------



## Khaled G

First: Thanks for the rep

Second: the pics aren't mine (I have a *UD3H* as stated in my sig) but I was lucky to find them on google (from the same website ! ) after I almost thought it's impossible to get pics shot from the exact same angle for the different boards.

Third: to answer your question: "What?",
I can only think of memory heat issues.

Fourth: The Audio:
I believe that you're talking about the front audio connector, the only thing I'm aware of is that it's located beside the VIA chip in the bottom pic, and you can confirm it here, as for the other board, I'm not sure.

Fifth: The backside of the boards:
I believe you will only find soldering traces where they moved components such as DIMM slots.

Still need to confirm ...

EDIT: I have a question, what are the differences between (Standard, Low, Medium, High, and Extreme) settings in any BIOS option ?


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

I'm trying to figure out the pwm options on this board. Is there a way to just set a fan or in my case pump to just run at a certain speed or duty cycle and stay there? I'm surprised that option isn't in the bios.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out the pwm options on this board. Is there a way to just set a fan or in my case pump to just run at a certain speed or duty cycle and stay there? I'm surprised that option isn't in the bios.


AFAIK on these boards your only option in Bios is to set a Y=Slope*X fan curve with witha PWM unit/C ratio you select as the slope, in Easy Tune there is the same system but there is only two points on the "fan curve" so that's all the PWM option you have available.


----------



## Khaled G

I've Upgraded the BIOS to F17, OCed to 4.4 @ 1.16v, Ran 10 passes of IBT Standard and 1 pass on High (Still on Stock reference cooler )


----------



## r0ach

Can anyone explain the following voltage behavior on the UD5H w/ 2500k?

If I set 1.35vcore, CPU to 4.5ghz, and leave all other voltage on AUTO, everything functions normally.

If I set 1.35vcore, CPU to 4.5ghz, and set all other voltage on "NORMAL" in the screenshot below, my vcore goes through the roof to 1.5v+ in Windows.

I thought this was a bug with the F14 BIOS, but it appears to do this in all of them. It lets me set 4ghz, 1.3vcore, and all other voltage on "normal" without having this buggy behavior, it only seems to happen somewhere over 4ghz.


----------



## Khaled G

@r0ach: I've set some voltages to turbo and that works fine for me.(I cannot tell the difference though).

I am about to install an old ASUS EN8800GTX graphics card in my UD3H and buy a Gigabyte Geforce 210 To fill in where the 8800GTX came from

The 8800GTX uses PCIE 1.0 and was Installed on a PCIE 1.0 Mobo (Gigabyte 965P-DQ6)
The Geforce GT210 uses PCIE 2.0 and will replace the 8800GTX

Will there be a compatibility issues ?
I have my PCIE slots configured to run @3.0, Will they work ? or should I reduce them to 1.0 ?

Thanks


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> AFAIK on these boards your only option in Bios is to set a Y=Slope*X fan curve with witha PWM unit/C ratio you select as the slope, in Easy Tune there is the same system but there is only two points on the "fan curve" so that's all the PWM option you have available.


What temps are the system headers based off of? I plugged in a pwm fan and it didn't appear to ramp up when I launched prime so I would imagine that its not the cpu temps.


----------



## AlphaC

I hit 4.6Ghz @1.284V (more than the 1.272V under 1.25V + PLL Overvoltage under Prime) Prime95 for 14 hours, when I woke up MS Windows said Easytune6 (ET6) crashed but Prime had no errors and there was no BSOD.

I had OCed manuallly via BIOs and EasyTune6 wasn't open. I think EasyTune6 was running as a background process.

So is it stable (and EasyTune6 is just buggy)? Or is it unstable? AFAIK Easytune6 doesn't go up to 4.7GHz at <1.3V.

edit: will run OCCT for 2 hours w/ LINPACK later


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> I hit 4.6Ghz @1.284V (more than the 1.272V under 1.25V + PLL Overvoltage under Prime) Prime95 for 14 hours, when I woke up MS Windows said Easytune6 (ET6) crashed but Prime had no errors and there was no BSOD.
> I had OCed manuallly via BIOs and EasyTune6 wasn't open. I think EasyTune6 was running as a background process.
> So is it stable (and EasyTune6 is just buggy)? Or is it unstable? AFAIK Easytune6 doesn't go up to 4.7GHz at <1.3V.
> edit: will run OCCT for 2 hours w/ LINPACK later


EasyTune6 is garbage.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Happened to me with Easytune6 but didn't affect anything else.
Check your Event viewer's Windows logs, system tab. Look for WHEA errors...Probably it's stable and nothing to worry about









EDIT: Easytune6 is NOT garbage, I like it more than Tweak Launcher for certain things, both have their uses.
Software overclocking can be a great tool if used right.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out the pwm options on this board. Is there a way to just set a fan or in my case pump to just run at a certain speed or duty cycle and stay there? I'm surprised that option isn't in the bios.
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK on these boards your only option in Bios is to set a Y=Slope*X fan curve with witha PWM unit/C ratio you select as the slope, in Easy Tune there is the same system but there is only two points on the "fan curve" so that's all the PWM option you have available.
Click to expand...

This has evolved into a huge frustration for me! I invested in three new premium 4-pin fans with PWM control capability, and plugged them into the 4-pin PWM headers on the UD5H motherboard. Firstly, they spin at full speed no matter what the BIOS setting (standard, silent, custom at all values). Secondly, EasyTune6 only slightly adjusts the SYS fan speeds down, even with the most extreme plots on its graph -- and the application crashes on its own (Windows 7 64-bit) consistently within an hour or so of doing nothing. Thirdly, HWMonitor Pro and SpeedFan simply do not control PWM fan speed, period, even though they are advertised to be capable of it. Fourth, and worst of all: there is not a single fan controller on the market that controls PWM fans with 4-pin connectors. No joke!

The fact that there is no demand for these minimum requirements, from a fan controller to a firmware fix, suggests that hardly any consumers spend the time to figure these things out (far from rocket science)!


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> there is not a single fan controller on the market that controls PWM fans with 4-pin connectors.


I'm controlling my Arctic cooling F14 fans which are 4-pin pwm fans using a lamptron FC4. Its just a standard rheostat.


----------



## chris-br

@ ivanlabrie

For some reason, i'm not stable anymore.... also, my temps are going sky high now, hitting almost 90, didn't change anything on my stable oc profile. i'm even not passing ibt on factory settings. ***?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> @ ivanlabrie
> For some reason, i'm not stable anymore.... also, my temps are going sky high now, hitting almost 90, didn't change anything on my stable oc profile. i'm even not passing ibt on factory settings. ***?


I'm guessing ambient temps changed. I have the same problem when ambient temps rise past 25c, I use my 4.4ghz oc profile then. Or my power saver 4.2ghz offset oc.


----------



## chris-br

wish you had the same cpu as me. would like to take a look at that 4. profile of yours.

edit: i even did went back to the f7 bios to see if would get beteer, but nothing changed. Also, i would like to know more about this offset thing.. I'm a first time intel OC, all my life i had AMD cpus, this is my first Intel EVER!!!!, So you could call me a NOOB.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Offset voltage is an extra vcore that applies under load, over your VID value. It helps get some power savings when idle, not applicable if you fold 24/7 for example...It's harder to stabilize it than regular fixed vcore/clocks setups.


----------



## Ali Man

Feels so good selling the UD5H, now I can OC my memory sticks past 2200Mhz using ASUS (which was the boundary with UD5H) and even get lower temps at the VCore.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Feels so good selling the UD5H, now I can OC my memory sticks past 2200Mhz using ASUS (which was the boundary with UD5H) and even get lower temps at the VCore.


What board did you get?
I don't trust Asus customer support...you got Samsung lo profile ram?


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Offset voltage is an extra vcore that applies under load, over your VID value. It helps get some power savings when idle, not applicable if you fold 24/7 for example...It's harder to stabilize it than regular fixed vcore/clocks setups.


I don't fold, mostly gaming and web browsing.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> What board did you get?
> I don't trust Asus customer support...you got Samsung lo profile ram?


Yea I've heard that ASUS's customer support sucks, but the thing was that UD5H has retro and buggy software. They're still using the same schematic that they used years back. Right now using Maximus V Formula, took my G.skill babies till 2500Mhz!


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Yea I've heard that ASUS's customer support sucks, but the thing was that UD5H has retro and buggy software. They're still using the same schematic that they used years back. Right now using Maximus V Formula, took my G.skill babies till 2500Mhz!


Good luck with your new board and glad that you got a better oc out of it! In the end that's what matters...


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Good luck with your new board and glad that you got a better oc out of it! In the end that's what matters...


Exactly, thanks and you too


----------



## gizmo83

I am very frustrated because my ud5h seems to ignore the voltage that i select manually. For example i put 1.20vcore but all control software like cpu-z show me 1.32v or more.. Any solution?


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> I am very frustrated because my ud5h seems to ignore the voltage that i select manually. For example i put 1.20vcore but all control software like cpu-z show me 1.32v or more.. Any solution?


It'll only show 1.32V or close to it if your LLC is at its max, otherwise it wont.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> I am very frustrated because my ud5h seems to ignore the voltage that i select manually. For example i put 1.20vcore but all control software like cpu-z show me 1.32v or more.. Any solution?
> 
> 
> 
> It'll only show 1.32V or close to it if your LLC is at its max, otherwise it wont.
Click to expand...

So ?


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Happened to me with Easytune6 but didn't affect anything else.
> Check your Event viewer's Windows logs, system tab. Look for WHEA errors...Probably it's stable and nothing to worry about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Easytune6 is NOT garbage, I like it more than Tweak Launcher for certain things, both have their uses.
> Software overclocking can be a great tool if used right.


Quote:


> Log Name: Application
> Source: Application Error
> Event ID: 1000
> Task Category: (100)
> Level: Error
> Keywords: Classic
> Faulting application name: GUI.exe, version: 1.0.0.1, time stamp: 0x4f0fc8d2
> Faulting module name: HM.dll, version: 1.0.0.1, time stamp: 0x4f4ecd84
> Exception code: 0xc0000005
> Fault offset: 0x000067d3
> Faulting process id: *0x4ec*
> Faulting application start time: 0x01cda2820b8f50d5
> Faulting application path: C:\Program Files (x86)\GIGABYTE\ET6\GUI.exe
> Faulting module path: C:\Program Files (x86)\GIGABYTE\ET6\HM.dll


Looked up Exception code: *0xc0000005* and got the Data Execution Protection from Windows.

and another
Quote:


> Log Name: Application
> Source: Application Error
> Event ID: 1000
> Task Category: (100)
> Level: Error
> Keywords: Classic
> Faulting application name: GUI.exe, version: 1.0.0.1, time stamp: 0x4f0fc8d2
> Faulting module name: HM.dll, version: 1.0.0.1, time stamp: 0x4f4ecd84
> Exception code: 0xc0000005
> Fault offset: 0x000067d3
> Faulting process id: *0xca4*
> Faulting application start time: 0x01cda1c891dd49ee
> Faulting application path: C:\Program Files (x86)\GIGABYTE\ET6\GUI.exe
> Faulting module path: C:\Program Files (x86)\GIGABYTE\ET6\HM.dll


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Yea I've heard that ASUS's customer support sucks, but the thing was that UD5H has retro and buggy software. They're still using the same schematic that they used years back. Right now using Maximus V Formula, took my G.skill babies till 2500Mhz!


Yes, you should get the product that has the features that are important to you. I personally don't put much weight in OC ram as it provides little to no real world performance gain in the applications that I use the most (i.e., BF3). I don't understand your statement about Gigabyte software but that is not important. What is important is that you get something that works for you. ASUS is pretty solid and I also don't have any experience with dealing with their customer support; however I had used their board for the last 5 yrs and was pretty satisfied with the build quality.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> I am very frustrated because my ud5h seems to ignore the voltage that i select manually. For example i put 1.20vcore but all control software like cpu-z show me 1.32v or more.. Any solution?


One guy had two UD5Hs. One of them did the same thing as yours, and second was fine. He ended up RMAing the defective one. Unfortunately for you, it seems that you have the same case.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Yes, you should get the product that has the features that are important to you. I personally don't put much weight in OC ram as it provides little to no real world performance gain in the applications that I use the most (i.e., BF3). I don't understand your statement about Gigabyte software but that is not important. What is important is that you get something that works for you. ASUS is pretty solid and I also don't have any experience with dealing with their customer support; however I had used their board for the last 5 yrs and was pretty satisfied with the build quality.


It's all over reviews, even sin's. Read them and then you'll understand it.

Memory OC was just an example, but not the primary reason for getting this board. Build-in fan controllers was one, better general OC, more user friendly bios, much better software support and even the best built-in audio that a motherboard could ever have.


----------



## zvonexp

Hi, i tomorow getting my UD5H, does she have many problems ?


----------



## gizmo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> One guy had two UD5Hs. One of them did the same thing as yours, and second was fine. He ended up RMAing the defective one. Unfortunately for you, it seems that you have the same case.


I tried all bios and i solved the vcore problem after installed the f10 bios. Now is fine and i can set manually the vcore voltage. I hate rma and i think that is not an hardware problem but an issue from not good bioses..


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> This has evolved into a huge frustration for me! I invested in three new premium 4-pin fans with PWM control capability, and plugged them into the 4-pin PWM headers on the UD5H motherboard. Firstly, they spin at full speed no matter what the BIOS setting (standard, silent, custom at all values). Secondly, EasyTune6 only slightly adjusts the SYS fan speeds down, even with the most extreme plots on its graph -- and the application crashes on its own (Windows 7 64-bit) consistently within an hour or so of doing nothing. Thirdly, HWMonitor Pro and SpeedFan simply do not control PWM fan speed, period, even though they are advertised to be capable of it. Fourth, and worst of all: there is not a single fan controller on the market that controls PWM fans with 4-pin connectors. No joke!
> The fact that there is no demand for these minimum requirements, from a fan controller to a firmware fix, suggests that hardly any consumers spend the time to figure these things out (far from rocket science)!


When I bought my UD5H boards they were just out and there wasn't any information out about the fan headers, but now a little searching will find that fan control on these boards is limited.
I can certainly understand your frustration, and Gigabyte really dropped the ball on the fan headers. But since my rigs are water cooled I don't have much fuss with controlling fans. In the end I hardly think denigrating the collective IQ of the consumer is useful, since we have no control on what features a board gets. If you're an early adopter you suck it up and find a work around, if you're just getting the board and don't know then it's on you for not doing the research.
caveat emptor.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> This has evolved into a huge frustration for me! I invested in three new premium 4-pin fans with PWM control capability, and plugged them into the 4-pin PWM headers on the UD5H motherboard. Firstly, they spin at full speed no matter what the BIOS setting (standard, silent, custom at all values). Secondly, EasyTune6 only slightly adjusts the SYS fan speeds down, even with the most extreme plots on its graph -- and the application crashes on its own (Windows 7 64-bit) consistently within an hour or so of doing nothing. Thirdly, HWMonitor Pro and SpeedFan simply do not control PWM fan speed, period, even though they are advertised to be capable of it. Fourth, and worst of all: there is not a single fan controller on the market that controls PWM fans with 4-pin connectors. No joke!
> The fact that there is no demand for these minimum requirements, from a fan controller to a firmware fix, suggests that hardly any consumers spend the time to figure these things out (far from rocket science)!
> 
> 
> 
> When I bought my UD5H boards they were just out and there wasn't any information out about the fan headers, but now a little searching will find that fan control on these boards is limited.
> I can certainly understand your frustration, and Gigabyte really dropped the ball on the fan headers. But since my rigs are water cooled I don't have much fuss with controlling fans. In the end I hardly think denigrating the collective IQ of the consumer is useful, since we have no control on what features a board gets. If you're an early adopter you suck it up and find a work around, if you're just getting the board and don't know then it's on you for not doing the research.
> caveat emptor.
Click to expand...

Points well taken. But I feel that there's still some work to be done in getting applications like SpeedFan and HWMonitor Pro+ to come around and support this UD5H motherboard, which I'm beginning to assume they DON'T. Currently, I simply cannot control PWM fan speeds after booting into Windows 7 64-bit -- and again, the BIOS controls before that are pathetic. Does anyone agree that the lack of PWM control is solely in the hands of application developers after booting into Windows, on a motherboard-specific basis? Since EasyTune6 doesn't hardly work and crashes constantly, it isn't (so far) an option. I stand by the comment that so long as people make excuses for these manufacturers, they'll relish the slack and never do anything without our demands.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> there is not a single fan controller on the market that controls PWM fans with 4-pin connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm controlling my Arctic cooling F14 fans which are 4-pin pwm fans using a lamptron FC4. Its just a standard rheostat.
Click to expand...

That is just like any other fan controller, based upon 3-pin connectors (using an adapter for 4-pin fans). It does not make use of the PWM functionality of the fans, and reverts to vanilla voltage control that is the inferior performance characteristic of 3-pin fans that cost quite a bit less.


----------



## TheSchlaf

Anyone know the SLI spacing on the uD5H in mm or slots? I need to order a watercooling SLI bridge and need either of those two measurements.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSchlaf*
> 
> Anyone know the SLI spacing on the uD5H in mm or slots? I need to order a watercooling SLI bridge and need either of those two measurements.


It is *3 slot spacing* like most of the mainstream Z77 SLI ready boards, so if you place a 2 slot GPU in the first PCIE3.0 slot(slot 2 of 7), it will cover slots 2 &3, leaving slot 4 open between it and Slot 5(the second PCIE3.0 Board).

My ASUS P8Z77-V have the same PCIE slot(3 slot space, slots 2 & 5 are the top 2 PCIE3.0 slots, using the 2 slot Gigabyte 670 Windforce) layout so I will post its picture to help you visualize:




As you can see the card occupies 2 slots and there is 1 slot space between the two cards.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSchlaf*
> 
> Anyone know the SLI spacing on the uD5H in mm or slots? I need to order a watercooling SLI bridge and need either of those two measurements.


2 expansion slots between first and second PCI-E. 4 slots of total lenght. Spacing in mm should be the same on all boards... Something like this should do. You can get something like this to be safe.


----------



## chris-br

Well. last night i was thinking about offset mode OC. So i gave a try.. Here are the results:

Did run prime for 9 hours, no erros, nice temps.. could not be happier..

Here are the bios settings:





Temps were never over 77C, and the cpu does clock down nicely when idle...

Did have some help on this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/0_100

What you guys think about that?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Lookin' good! Looks like a nice 24/7 setup, you should be proud.


----------



## chris-br

Thanks.... i have to admit... was fun getting there.







offset is really the way to go.

edit: ivanlabrie, my mobe is the WIFI version too


----------



## AlphaC

^ Your Ivy CPU needs so much Vcore :O


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> ^ Your Ivy CPU needs so much Vcore :O


Not really, it looks about average.


----------



## ivanlabrie

I use a negative offset for 4.2ghz...but I bet 4.5ghz would need a bit more.
His chip is not that bad!


----------



## chris-br

What can i do? Came stock @ 1.212 , so there is nothing i can do. Atleast, is what the bios was showing at first boot., Bte, i didnt touch the vcore, just the dynamic.


----------



## SirWooties

How do I update the bios on my motherboard?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> How do I update the bios on my motherboard?


2 ways to do that:

Easy: Download Gigabyte @Bios application and it'll automatically update. (I used it to update from F7 to F8)

Advanced: Manually Download the Bios (~ 4 MB), Copy to root folder of a flash drive, restart and go to Q-Flash (Press END repeatedly when you hear the beep after restart until it appears), choose your Flash drive and It will update. (I used it to upgrade to F17).


----------



## SirWooties

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> 2 ways to do that:
> 
> Easy: Download Gigabyte @Bios application and it'll automatically update. (I used it to update from F7 to F8)
> 
> Advanced: Manually Download the Bios (~ 4 MB), Copy to root folder of a flash drive, restart and go to Q-Flash (Press END repeatedly when you hear the beep after restart until it appears), choose your Flash drive and It will update. (I used it to upgrade to F17).


I tried that before but I get an error when trying to install the @ bios utility. "This is not a gigabyte product, setup will abort"


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> What can i do? Came stock @ 1.212 , so there is nothing i can do. Atleast, is what the bios was showing at first boot., Bte, i didnt touch the vcore, just the dynamic.


If it's stable like that it's perfectly fine! Don't worry, the temps are good too








Enjoy your rig man


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Well. last night i was thinking about offset mode OC. So i gave a try.. Here are the results:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did run prime for 9 hours, no erros, nice temps.. could not be happier..
> Here are the bios settings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps were never over 77C, and the cpu does clock down nicely when idle...
> Did have some help on this thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/0_100
> What you guys think about that?


Any particular reason you disabled C states and thermal monitor? You should be able to run with those on Auto. Also the Turbo you can just leave on Auto if you want.


----------



## chris-br

After reading alot, i found an article saying this. OFFset: CIE: enable, c3/c6 disable... Fixed voltage: everything enable... and that link, gave me some ideas. so, its working for me.. i may try to raise the multi to 46 without changing the volts and see what happens.








Oh, i also did read this guide: http://www.thinkcomputers.org/intel-ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide/ It helped me in getting there.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> I tried that before but I get an error when trying to install the @ bios utility. "This is not a gigabyte product, setup will abort"


@bios is not recommended anyway. save the updated bios to a usb and plug into usb port. restart and hit del key, enter bios screen. enter the flash bios utility and load up your new bios. When the computer restart, enter bios again and select optimized settings.


----------



## tron999

Hey guys. I have a UD3H. I can't get my computer to go to sleep. When I did a powercfg -a, s3 is not available. Can you tell me where the config is to turn this on? Thanks for the help.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tron999*
> 
> Hey guys. I have a UD3H. I can't get my computer to go to sleep. When I did a powercfg -a, s3 is not available. Can you tell me where the config is to turn this on? Thanks for the help.


Do you have CPU PLL Overvoltage set to on in Bios? If that's on you will lose sleep mode but it will make your Extreme Overclocking more stable.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Any particular reason you disabled C states and thermal monitor? You should be able to run with those on Auto. Also the Turbo you can just leave on Auto if you want.




http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread#post_16538542


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> After reading alot, i found an article saying this. OFFset: CIE: enable, c3/c6 disable... Fixed voltage: everything enable... and that link, gave me some ideas. so, its working for me.. i may try to raise the multi to 46 without changing the volts and see what happens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, i also did read this guide: http://www.thinkcomputers.org/intel-ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide/ It helped me in getting there.


Nice guide, + Rep for sharing.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> 2 ways to do that:
> 
> Easy: Download Gigabyte @Bios application and it'll automatically update. (I used it to update from F7 to F8)
> 
> Advanced: Manually Download the Bios (~ 4 MB), Copy to root folder of a flash drive, restart and go to Q-Flash (Press END repeatedly when you hear the beep after restart until it appears), choose your Flash drive and It will update. (I used it to upgrade to F17).
> 
> 
> 
> I tried that before but I get an error when trying to install the @ bios utility. "This is not a gigabyte product, setup will abort"
Click to expand...

Download F6 BIOS and install manually by using the advanced method above.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> I tried that before but I get an error when trying to install the @ bios utility. "This is not a gigabyte product, setup will abort"
> 
> 
> 
> @bios is not recommended anyway. save the updated bios to a usb and plug into usb port. restart and hit del key, enter bios screen. enter the flash bios utility and load up your new bios. When the computer restart, enter bios again and select optimized settings.
Click to expand...

I've tried both ways and they worked fine.


----------



## sixor

wow, again by my z77x ud3h causing problems

this is the second time i turn the pc and the bios was screwed, the mobo copied the bios2, but why does this happen?

everything was fine, pc shut down fine, overclock is stable, all pc parts are fine, no power cuts, nothing, the other time was the same

also, the lan card on my mobo sucks, it can´t handle torrents or heavy number of connections, and yes i tested my lan on other pc, the modem is fine, the cable, etc, it`s the crap lan used in ud3h, if you put 3 torrents it is almost 99% sure the network will fail and you need to restart windows, and yes using latest drivers,


----------



## gizmo83

In my bios in cpu voltage control i have noticed with all bios available that the value on the left of "auto" is ever set to 1.230v. This appear also when i have loaded optimized default and than is all on the factory default. With ud5h have you the same value?

When i have to oc my cpu with positive offset i start from 1.230 vcore??


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> In my bios in cpu voltage control i have noticed with all bios available that the value on the left of "auto" is ever set to 1.230v. This appear also when i have loaded optimized default and than is all on the factory default. With ud5h have you the same value?
> When i have to oc my cpu with positive offset i start from 1.230 vcore??


It depends upon what frequency you're OC'ing to or from.


----------



## gizmo83

full default. no oc. living parameters on auto the mobo show me 1.230 on the left...it's normal value?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread#post_16538542


It's no wonder people trying to OC for the first time get so confused when it comes to C states. About C states being on Auto: First people told me my SSD's were going to under perform and they could prove it. Then some said I would not get a stable overclock. And there were other reasons I don't remember now. Wrong.

It's probably true some other boards respond differently, but I know my 2xUD5H boards pretty well, I've had them since they hit Newegg.
Guides are OK , and I believe I contributed to that one, but at some point if you are going to OC you should learn your board for yourself and see what works and what doesn't. If something works for you, that's cool, do whatever you want. I've never knowingly given anyone bad advice, but if they test everything and find something that works for them that doesn't agree with mine, it doesn't surprise me and they should go for whatever works.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> full default. no oc. living parameters on auto the mobo show me 1.230 on the left...it's normal value?


Default VCore values are always higher than whats really needed to run at stock frequencies. That's more like the VCore for 4.5Ghz


----------



## gizmo83

but in several screenshots on internet i see a minor voltage in normal state...


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> This has evolved into a huge frustration for me! I invested in three new premium 4-pin fans with PWM control capability, and plugged them into the 4-pin PWM headers on the UD5H motherboard. Firstly, they spin at full speed no matter what the BIOS setting (standard, silent, custom at all values). Secondly, EasyTune6 only slightly adjusts the SYS fan speeds down, even with the most extreme plots on its graph -- and the application crashes on its own (Windows 7 64-bit) consistently within an hour or so of doing nothing. Thirdly, HWMonitor Pro and SpeedFan simply do not control PWM fan speed, period, even though they are advertised to be capable of it. Fourth, and worst of all: there is not a single fan controller on the market that controls PWM fans with 4-pin connectors. No joke!
> The fact that there is no demand for these minimum requirements, from a fan controller to a firmware fix, suggests that hardly any consumers spend the time to figure these things out (far from rocket science)!


I had used speedfan on my now retired computer for a few years to control the speed of the cpu fan.

Based on hpmoon's post I downloaded the most recent version of speedfan to see if I could get it to control SYSFAN_1 as this is the only fan header that I have a fan connected that can be controlled. As reported earlier, this fan header can be voltage controlled as well as pwm. As I have a 3-pin fan connected to it I confirmed that ET6 was able to control this fan's speed. Then I used speedfan to successfully control same fan. Although I can't confirm as I don't have a 4-pin fan, I believe speedfan can separately control three sets of fans. One via cpu fan header, one through SYSFAN_1 fan header, and one through SYSFAN_2 and 3 fan header. Again, as already reported, cpu fan header and SYSFAN_1 fan header can control either by voltage or pwm. SYSFAN_2 and 3 can only be controlled via pwm. SYSFAN_4 cannot be controlled through the motherboard.

I admit ET6 is not very useful when it comes to controlling the system fans as it can only adjust the fans based on the system temp which does not vary much. And it seems to crash often.


----------



## mandrix

Yeah, I don't know what they were thinking with the fan headers, especially header 4 full on voltage all the time. Maybe that's one of the things that finally pushed me into water cooling.


----------



## EvgeniX

GA-Z77X-UD5H "04" code - what does it mean?


----------



## Droogie

Hey guys. I'm picking up a 3570k and looking at motherboards.

How good is the z77x-ud3h? It fits my budget and looks good. I'm mainly after something reliable that will make overclocking easy for me. I'm a newb at it.


----------



## DeXel

UD3H is one of the best boards for $150







. Some people had problems with VIA USB ports in the past, but those should be fixed by now.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm picking up a 3570k and looking at motherboards.
> How good is the z77x-ud3h? It fits my budget and looks good. I'm mainly after something reliable that will make overclocking easy for me. I'm a newb at it.


It's good, but don't pay $150 for it when that's the price of the Z77X-UP4 TH today on NCIX. (I got my UD3H for $120 from NCIX in Sept...)
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=75125&vpn=GA%2DZ77X%2DUP4%2DTH&manufacture=Gigabyte&promoid=1258

UP4 is newer;Ultra Durable 5 instead of Ultra Durable 4 and has Thunderbolt. The difference between Ultra Durable 5 and 4 is PowIR stage. http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/312/images/PowIRstage.html , http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/312/images/ultra-durable.html

It also has Realtek ALC892 instead of VIA VT2021.

Comparison:
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/comparison/list.aspx?ck=2&pids=4153,4280

EDIT: If rear e-sata port is important to you then the UD3H is better. The UP5 TH has voltage readout and esata but runs $240ish, UD5H is $200ish...

EDIT 2: also I think UP4 has same power phases (6+2).
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Gigabyte-Z77X-UP4-TH-Motherboard/1608/6 , http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Gigabyte-Z77X-UD3H-Motherboard/1520/6


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> UD3H is one of the best boards for $150
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Some people had problems with VIA USB ports in the past, but those should be fixed by now.


Somewhere in this topic there was someone saying that the Internet port/driver on UD3H have difficulty handling 3X Torrent Downloading(would crash and cause you to lose internet connection for a while), if you never download that much stuff at the same time that won't be an issue for you. UD3H is definitely a good board for its price point.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Somewhere in this topic there was someone saying that the Internet port/driver on UD3H have difficulty handling 3X Torrent Downloading(would crash and cause you to lose internet connection for a while), if you never download that much stuff at the same time that won't be an issue for you. UD3H is definitely a good board for its price point.


UD5H second LAN is the same. I don't experience such problems. Probably driver issue.

I may test that over the weekends to confirm though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> It's good, but don't pay $150 for it when that's the price of the Z77X-UP4 TH today on NCIX. (I got my UD3H for $120 from NCIX in Sept...)
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=75125&vpn=GA%2DZ77X%2DUP4%2DTH&manufacture=Gigabyte&promoid=1258
> UP4 is newer;Ultra Durable 5 instead of Ultra Durable 4 and has Thunderbolt. The difference between Ultra Durable 5 and 4 is PowIR stage. http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/312/images/PowIRstage.html , http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/312/images/ultra-durable.html
> It also has Realtek ALC892 instead of VIA VT2021.
> Comparison:
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/comparison/list.aspx?ck=2&pids=4153,4280


Wow that's awesome!

Get it before the deal runs out!


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> This has evolved into a huge frustration for me! I invested in three new premium 4-pin fans with PWM control capability, and plugged them into the 4-pin PWM headers on the UD5H motherboard. Firstly, they spin at full speed no matter what the BIOS setting (standard, silent, custom at all values). Secondly, EasyTune6 only slightly adjusts the SYS fan speeds down, even with the most extreme plots on its graph -- and the application crashes on its own (Windows 7 64-bit) consistently within an hour or so of doing nothing. Thirdly, HWMonitor Pro and SpeedFan simply do not control PWM fan speed, period, even though they are advertised to be capable of it. Fourth, and worst of all: there is not a single fan controller on the market that controls PWM fans with 4-pin connectors. No joke!
> The fact that there is no demand for these minimum requirements, from a fan controller to a firmware fix, suggests that hardly any consumers spend the time to figure these things out (far from rocket science)!
> 
> 
> 
> I had used speedfan on my now retired computer for a few years to control the speed of the cpu fan.
> 
> Based on hpmoon's post I downloaded the most recent version of speedfan to see if I could get it to control SYSFAN_1 as this is the only fan header that I have a fan connected that can be controlled. As reported earlier, this fan header can be voltage controlled as well as pwm. As I have a 3-pin fan connected to it I confirmed that ET6 was able to control this fan's speed. Then I used speedfan to successfully control same fan. Although I can't confirm as I don't have a 4-pin fan, I believe speedfan can separately control three sets of fans. One via cpu fan header, one through SYSFAN_1 fan header, and one through SYSFAN_2 and 3 fan header. Again, as already reported, cpu fan header and SYSFAN_1 fan header can control either by voltage or pwm. SYSFAN_2 and 3 can only be controlled via pwm. SYSFAN_4 cannot be controlled through the motherboard.
> 
> I admit ET6 is not very useful when it comes to controlling the system fans as it can only adjust the fans based on the system temp which does not vary much. And it seems to crash often.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yeah, I don't know what they were thinking with the fan headers, especially header 4 full on voltage all the time. Maybe that's one of the things that finally pushed me into water cooling.


Interesting. Could it be (as you note) that SpeedFan is designed soley for 3-pin, non-PWM fan speed control (even though it mentions PWM), and that's why you could achieve discrete control of each system fan header connected to 3-pin, non-PWM fans? As I mentioned, all my system fans are 4-pin PWM and SpeedFan appears to have no control over them, starting from those boxes with up and down arrows that are 100% by default (without automatic control checked).

I also note in mandrix's comment that the fourth system fan header has no speed control as a matter of hardware, if I'm reading correctly.

In sum: could it be that writing software to control PWM fan speeds is a motherboard-specific task and simply doesn't offer much support because of that? As I also mentioned, HWMonitor Pro+ similarly gives no PWM fan speed control, despite advertising itself as such.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Interesting. Could it be (as you note) that SpeedFan is designed soley for 3-pin, non-PWM fan speed control (even though it mentions PWM), and that's why you could achieve discrete control of each system fan header connected to 3-pin, non-PWM fans? As I mentioned, all my system fans are 4-pin PWM and SpeedFan appears to have no control over them, starting from those boxes with up and down arrows that are 100% by default (without automatic control checked).
> I also note in mandrix's comment that the fourth system fan header has no speed control as a matter of hardware, if I'm reading correctly.
> In sum: could it be that writing software to control PWM fan speeds is a motherboard-specific task and simply doesn't offer much support because of that? As I also mentioned, HWMonitor Pro+ similarly gives no PWM fan speed control, despite advertising itself as such.


On the UD5H fans work this way.

In SpeedFan:
Fan1=CPU_FAN
Fan2=SYS_FAN1
Fan3=SYS_FAN2
Fan4=SYS_FAN3
Fan5=SYS_FAN4

Temp1=mobo
Temp2=z77 PCH
Temp3=CPU-mobo
Cores0/1/2/3 need +20 offset to be correct

PWM1=CPU_FAN --> Voltage (3-pin fan)
PWM2=SYS_FAN1/2/3
PWM3=CPU_FAN --> PWM (4-pin fan)

No voltages shown yet, it takes a while for new hardware to be supported.

//


----------



## barkeater

If that is true then I can show you (hpmoon) how to control your pwm fans using Speedfan and the fan headers on your motherboard..

Thanks cab2.


----------



## Bluemustang

Hey I'm curious AlphaC, I also purchased my UD3H from NCIX for 120 in september and was surprised and angry to find that some time (maybe a few days even) after I was charged the 119.99 for the board they also hit my account for some stupid 96 cent international or something fee (im in usa as is their california location). They do the same to you?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Interesting. Could it be (as you note) that SpeedFan is designed soley for 3-pin, non-PWM fan speed control (even though it mentions PWM), and that's why you could achieve discrete control of each system fan header connected to 3-pin, non-PWM fans? As I mentioned, all my system fans are 4-pin PWM and SpeedFan appears to have no control over them, starting from those boxes with up and down arrows that are 100% by default (without automatic control checked).
> I also note in mandrix's comment that the fourth system fan header has no speed control as a matter of hardware, if I'm reading correctly.
> In sum: could it be that writing software to control PWM fan speeds is a motherboard-specific task and simply doesn't offer much support because of that? As I also mentioned, HWMonitor Pro+ similarly gives no PWM fan speed control, despite advertising itself as such.


In order to control fan speeds in speedfan you have to go to Configure>Advanced>select IT872BF from dropdown and set the PWM fans to on/off.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> In order to control fan speeds in speedfan you have to go to Configure>Advanced>select IT872BF from dropdown and set the PWM fans to on/off.


Negative. At least this is not what worked for me. Just as a test, I wanted to see if I could use speedfan to control my SYSFAN_1 header on which I have a regular 3-pin fan. What worked for me was to first set the system fan control in the bios to manual and the pwm slope thing to 2. Then in speedfan I did what Bluemustang said but instead of setting all the pwm fans to on/off, I set pwm 2 to software controlled and set min rpm to 40% max to 100% and checked the box for continuously adjusted or something like that. Under the temperature tab, make sure nothing is checked under any of the main temperatures except for one. Pick a temperature that corresponds to the cpu temperature and click on the "+" and select pwm 2. Also at the bottom enter the desired temperature you want the cpu to be at (I chose 35 degrees C). Now in the main menu, select automatic fan speed and you should see the fan begin to spin down to 40%.

There are many "how to's" on how to use speedfan on the web so just familiarize yourself with it and play around till you get it to work. I suggest just for getting started to just try and control one fan. Once you have learned how to do that it is easier then to set up all of your other fans.


----------



## cab2

Speedfan works fine, but it's *only for testing*, you cannot rely on it to cool your system. Same goes for EasyTune6.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Negative. At least this is not what worked for me. Just as a test, I wanted to see if I could use speedfan to control my SYSFAN_1 header on which I have a regular 3-pin fan. What worked for me was to first set the system fan control in the bios to manual and the pwm slope thing to 2. Then in speedfan I did what Bluemustang said but instead of setting all the pwm fans to on/off, I set pwm 2 to software controlled and set min rpm to 40% max to 100% and checked the box for continuously adjusted or something like that. Under the temperature tab, make sure nothing is checked under any of the main temperatures except for one. Pick a temperature that corresponds to the cpu temperature and click on the "+" and select pwm 2. Also at the bottom enter the desired temperature you want the cpu to be at (I chose 35 degrees C). Now in the main menu, select automatic fan speed and you should see the fan begin to spin down to 40%.
> There are many "how to's" on how to use speedfan on the web so just familiarize yourself with it and play around till you get it to work. I suggest just for getting started to just try and control one fan. Once you have learned how to do that it is easier then to set up all of your other fans.


Works good for me...You're right, I had to use software controlled, and mark 'remember it'
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Speedfan works fine, but it's *only for testing*, you cannot rely on it to cool your system. Same goes for EasyTune6.


Why not??


----------



## barkeater

yeah cab2, what do you mean?

ET6 I get because it seems to crash quite frequently. However I have never had problem with speedfan.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> yeah cab2, what do you mean?
> ET6 I get because it seems to crash quite frequently. However I have never had problem with speedfan.


ET6 crashed on me when pushing extreme clocks, or not so stable setups which also had WHEA errors/warnings.


----------



## coolhandluke41

make sure you have this unchecked


EDIT;just use GTL


----------



## ivanlabrie

You know what, I did have that checked when using ET6. Haven't used it since, after unchecking those options...
Do you know how to change ratios during a bench? Say 3dm11...I wanna lower my clocks for cpu/physics tests


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> You know what, I did have that checked when using ET6. Haven't used it since, after unchecking those options...
> Do you know how to change ratios during a bench? Say 3dm11...I wanna lower my clocks for cpu/physics tests


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*


Can't alt tab during a test...I need a hotkey thingie. And I already have GTL.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> GA-Z77X-UD5H "04" code - what does it mean?


It's a D4 and says: PCI resource allocation error. Out of resources.

I wonder what it means


----------



## roshanrod

Hi i m going 2 buy an i7 3770k Ivy bridge processor and am confused which motherboard to select out of these 3: Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H AsUS p8z77-V LX and Asrock z77 Extreme 4. in terms of features, performance and longevity. my budget is Rs 13000 (Indian currency). Thanks.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Asrock has analog vrm, that Asus model is ok, but has less value. I'd opt for the ud3h, and if possible the up4 (it shouldn't cost much more).


----------



## SpineyNole

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpineyNole*
> 
> I will be buying a new rig soon (in next 2 weeks), and am interested in the Z77X-UD5H. From the research I have done, there were a number of issues that people were having with this board earlier this year (freezing, BSODs, etc). Were these issues resolved? Is the Z77X-UD5H solid now? I would be interested in knowing what the fixes were if anyone has that information.
> Also, what RAM have you used for this board that is rock solid. Not a big over-clocker, just want rock solid reliability and fast performance for GPGPU development (Nvidia KEPLER) with lots of RAM. Thanks.


Anyone else have opinions on this board? I am about to pull the trigger...


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpineyNole*
> 
> Anyone else have opinions on this board? I am about to pull the trigger...


Let me list you all known problems with UD5H, and let you decide on yourself.

Audio doesn't work in Linux (no idea why, but desoldering resistors helps according to some).
I experience DPC spikes, but some don't. Still investigating this problem.
Almost all Z77 boards from Gigabyte, including this, have very limited fan control options.

Otherwise it's a very solid board.

You may consider UP4 as an alternative if you want to.


----------



## AlphaC

^ UP4 has less power phase, no heatpipe, no wifi, no esata, & no Debug LED / CMOS reset , but Thunderbolt & ultra durable 5

As a side note for UD3H, I realized if I decrease V_Core at 4.5GHz to 1.25V instead of 1.26V then sometimes it refuses to turn on the USB 3.0 ports on the bottom right which results in my wifi adapter not working.

Also fan control is "bad" on Gigabyte boards but still better than OEM... you just can't compare it to Asus. I noticed the fan control doesn't detect whether it's a voltage fan or PWM if you set it to Auto which means it runs at 100% always. The solution is to just set it to Voltage /PWM manually. AFAIK Gigabyte (non 3D) BIOS is still better than Asrock/MSI in terms of having fan ramp up instead of percentages.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> ^ UP4 has less power phase,no heatpipe.


Actually UP4 and UD5H have the same amount of "true" PWM Phase count, they all have *6 Phase IR3567 PWM*, UD5H have doubler so it has 12 after the doubling.:



Also UP4's IR 3550 Mosfets runs a lot cooler(also much higher quality, rated 60A) than UD5H's so no heatpipe is not really a con.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Let me list you all known problems with UD5H, and let you decide on yourself.
> Audio doesn't work in Linux (no idea why, but desoldering resistors helps according to some).
> I experience DPC spikes, but some don't. Still investigating this problem.
> Almost all Z77 boards from Gigabyte, including this, have very limited fan control options.
> Otherwise it's a very solid board.
> You may consider UP4 as an alternative if you want to.


disable ET6 and GTL


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Actually UP4 and UD5H have the same amount of "true" PWN Phase count, they all have *6 Phase IR3567 PWM*, UD5H have doubler so it has 12 after the doubling.:
> 
> Also UP4's IR 3550 Mosfets runs a lot cooler(also much higher quality, rated 60A) than UD5H's so no heatpipe is not really a con.


good to know


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quick question, I havn't been in the Ivy overclock scene at all, and am looking to get a 3770k and overclock it as high as possible. I used a UD5H before on a 2600k build and it did great, although I had some sleep problems. Im just wondering if overclocking is all im really after (Ill run a gtx 660 or 670 with Lucid), which board is the suggestion one to be looking at? Don't really want to spend more than UD5H, and will be getting a Corsair H100 most likely in order to keep it all cool.
Thanks!


----------



## homestyle

So can the SYS_fan header 2 and 3 be controlled with software or not?

So much wrong information in this thread. I know cpu fan and sys fan header 1 only can be controlled, but the other fan headers don't give fine-tune control.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> disable ET6 and GTL


Man, I am so tired replying to this. I have no ET6 and GTL installed. With them installed it can spike to 1000+. You are the 4th person who mentioned this, no offense.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> So can the SYS_fan header 2 and 3 be controlled with software or not?
> So much wrong information in this thread. I know cpu fan and sys fan header 1 only can be controlled, but the other fan headers don't give fine-tune control.


According to manual, PWM fans on those headers can be controlled. I haven't checked.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Quick question, I havn't been in the Ivy overclock scene at all, and am looking to get a 3770k and overclock it as high as possible. I used a UD5H before on a 2600k build and it did great, although I had some sleep problems. Im just wondering if overclocking is all im really after (Ill run a gtx 660 or 670 with Lucid), which board is the suggestion one to be looking at? Don't really want to spend more than UD5H, and will be getting a Corsair H100 most likely in order to keep it all cool.
> Thanks!


The UD5H will do just fine, i do use the lucid on mine with a 6970.







No issues here 4,5 cpu


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> In order to control fan speeds in speedfan you have to go to Configure>Advanced>select IT872BF from dropdown and set the PWM fans to on/off.


Thanks a ton, major + rep.

If I set it to on/off it just set my pump to full speed but with software controlled selected it works perfectly.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> So can the SYS_fan header 2 and 3 be controlled with software or not?
> So much wrong information in this thread. I know cpu fan and sys fan header 1 only can be controlled, but the other fan headers don't give fine-tune control.


I don't know about voltage control but pwm control works fine on the sys fan #3 header for me. I'm not sure what the pwm slope is based off of though.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Man, I am so tired replying to this. I have no ET6 and GTL installed. With them installed it can spike to 1000+. You are the 4th person who mentioned this, no offense.
> According to manual, PWM fans on those headers can be controlled. I haven't checked.


it have to be one of the apps you running on your rig ,i would try different OS (another/spare HDD ) ,my










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> it have to be one of the apps you running on your rig ,i would try different OS (another/spare HDD ) ,my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does it ever go over 150ish? My goes around 300 pretty often.

It can be anything, even a driver. If others don't experience spikes, then it's just my system.

EDIT: Do you have a new revision of this board (purple caps) by any chance?


----------



## coolhandluke41

no i have the first one (gap/blue), yeah it's around 145


----------



## DeXel

OK. Good to know it's not the board's problem.

I guess I'll wait and see how it goes on Windows 8.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> Thanks a ton, major + rep.
> If I set it to on/off it just set my pump to full speed but with software controlled selected it works perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know about voltage control but pwm control works fine on the sys fan #3 header for me. I'm not sure what the pwm slope is based off of though.


If you can control it with software, how do you not know the pwm slope? The whole purpose of controlling it with software is to control and know the slope.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> If you can control it with software, how do you not know the pwm slope? The whole purpose of controlling it with software is to control and know the slope.


I know what the slope is you can set that in the bios (have you looked at that?) but I'm not sure which sensor that its tied to. It appears to be one of the motherboard sensors that doesn't move much. You can use whatever you want with speedfan, though.

I don't know what you mean by if. Yeah, it doesn't work despite what it says in the manual and several people actually using pwm control on those headers.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> I know what the slope is you can set that in the bios (have you looked at that?) but I'm not sure which sensor that its tied to. It appears to be one of the motherboard sensors that doesn't move much. You can use whatever you want with speedfan, though.
> I don't know what you mean by if. Yeah, it doesn't work despite what it says in the manual and several people actually using pwm control on those headers.


so pwm 3 in speedfan controls your pwm fan in header 2 and 3?


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> so pwm 3 in speedfan controls your pwm fan in header 2 and 3?


PWM 2 in speedfan controls header 3. Thats all that I know for sure.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hey I'm curious AlphaC, I also purchased my UD3H from NCIX for 120 in september and was surprised and angry to find that some time (maybe a few days even) after I was charged the 119.99 for the board they also hit my account for some stupid 96 cent international or something fee (im in usa as is their california location). They do the same to you?


No, but I did pay for Express RMA ($3)

Did you pay with paypal? If you pay with a credit card, their main office is in Canada so they charge an international fee.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> PWM 2 in speedfan controls header 3. Thats all that I know for sure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> PWM 2 in speedfan controls header 3. Thats all that I know for sure.


So can you confirm you can control 3 separate fans with speedfan? If not, do that first and then let us know.

I'm under the understanding that only 2 fans can be controlled with speedfan. PWM 3 doesn't control anything.


----------



## barkeater

Jeez Homestyle, pls try and search a little. This is getting repetative.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/3840#post_18345833


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Jeez Homestyle, pls try and search a little. This is getting repetative.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/3840#post_18345833


Yes, I agree. The misinformation is getting repetitive.

I was the first one to report how to control fans in speedfan in this thread way back. Back then, you could only control 2 fans.

Bottom line is this:

Can you use speedfan to control 3 separate fans? Forget what the manual says. Can you control it in real life? The answer is No. Anyone who says otherwise is either lying or doesn't know what they are talking about. That is why I'm here trying to see what the heck babooey is talking about.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> ^ UP4 has less power phase,no heatpipe.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually UP4 and UD5H have the same amount of "true" PWM Phase count, they all have *6 Phase IR3567 PWM*, UD5H have doubler so it has 12 after the doubling.:
> 
> 
> 
> Also UP4's IR 3550 Mosfets runs a lot cooler(also much higher quality, rated 60A) than UD5H's so no heatpipe is not really a con.
Click to expand...

You're actually wrong, the UP4 only has a 6+2 (6 for the cpu) meanwhile the UP5 has a 8+0 (8 for the cpu) pwm phase count
And yes, they both don't have phase doublers


----------



## chris-br

All i can say about this phase count is that even with my cpu OC to 4.5 and when running full load for hours, you can touch any of the mobo heatsinks and they are not even warm. I love this board, even apart that you can't control the fan with speedfan.(yes i tried just for the heck of it) I just got the correct fans that don't make any noise and flow nice.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> You're actually wrong, the UP4 only has a 6+2 (6 for the cpu) meanwhile the *UP5 has a 8+0 (8 for the cpu) pwm phase count*
> And yes, they both don't have phase doublers


Alright, Let me pull out my original quote again:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Actually UP4 and *UD5H* have the same amount of "true" PWM Phase count, they all have *6 Phase IR3567 PWM*, *UD5H* have doubler so it has 12 after the doubling.:
> 
> Also *UP4*'s IR 3550 Mosfets runs a lot cooler(also much higher quality, rated 60A) than *UD5H*'s so no heatpipe is not really a con.


Where did I say anything about *UP5( UP5-TH)* ?







My point was about UP4 vs *UD5H* . Would you please read my actual quote first before commenting?????


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> You're actually wrong, the UP4 only has a 6+2 (6 for the cpu) meanwhile the *UP5 has a 8+0 (8 for the cpu) pwm phase count*
> And yes, they both don't have phase doublers
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, Let me pull out my original quote again:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Actually UP4 and *UD5H* have the same amount of "true" PWM Phase count, they all have *6 Phase IR3567 PWM*, *UD5H* have doubler so it has 12 after the doubling.:
> 
> Also *UP4*'s IR 3550 Mosfets runs a lot cooler(also much higher quality, rated 60A) than *UD5H*'s so no heatpipe is not really a con.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Where did I say anything about *UP5( UP5-TH)* ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My point was about UP4 vs *UD5H* . Would you please read my actual quote first before commenting?????
Click to expand...

Man, you're damn right, I was blind








I was reading UP5 instead of UD5








Sorry


----------



## numero-uno

Guys,

What is the key inputs when the PC is booting up/posting to get the flash 2nd BIOS from main BIOS screen up for UEFI?

Cheers people.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Guys, I think my board is dead. Debug code 0 flashes for a milisecond and then reboots. Tried with single channel ram, same thing. I remounted the cpu last nigh and I think I bent some pins, (there are at least 4 pins that look bent, or pressed down a bit out of line with the rest) I straightened one of them with a looking glass and a needle but the rest are to hard to re align.








Will Gigabyte RMA my board like this?


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Guys, I think my board is dead. Debug code 0 flashes for a milisecond and then reboots. Tried with single channel ram, same thing. I remounted the cpu last nigh and I think I bent some pins, (there are at least 4 pins that look bent, or pressed down a bit out of line with the rest) I straightened one of them with a looking glass and a needle but the rest are to hard to re align.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will Gigabyte RMA my board like this?


Try to strait up the remaining pins on the cpu and test it again. Is not the mobo is the cpu i believe.

EDIT: so, fix the pins and should be all good.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Try to strait up the remaining pins on the cpu and test it again. Is not the mobo is the cpu i believe.
> EDIT: so, fix the pins and should be all good.


Nope, it's impossible for me to straighten those mobo pins...I submitted an email form to GB, I hope I can get it repaired or get a replacement.
I'll be testing my cpu in another board too...


----------



## chris-br

So is the mobo pins that are bent and not the cpu's?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> So is the mobo pins that are bent and not the cpu's?


Yep, no cpu pins in the middle were damaged, I cleaned the contacts with isopropyl alcohol too...So I guess it's the board.
I'll know for sure once I test with my former z68 board (I sold it to a coworker)


----------



## Sin0822

yea they deff wont replace it for free unless it is light damage.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *numero-uno*
> 
> Guys,
> What is the key inputs when the PC is booting up/posting to get the flash 2nd BIOS from main BIOS screen up for UEFI?
> Cheers people.


Del on bootup gets you to BIOS Setup & Q-Flash

End on bootup gets you to Q-Flash

F12 on bootup screen gets you to boot options/BIOS setup

Do you mean the backup BIOS chip with everything stock?

If you are talking about the second BIOS chip, you use the switch on the motherboard, not a key. CMOS reset just resets the BIOS settings, it doesn't make it back to BNIB settings with the default BIOS version.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea they deff wont replace it for free unless it is light damage.


Some bent pins...that's all.
What do you think I should say?


----------



## s4e8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *numero-uno*
> 
> Guys,
> What is the key inputs when the PC is booting up/posting to get the flash 2nd BIOS from main BIOS screen up for UEFI?
> Cheers people.


ALT-F10


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s4e8*
> 
> ALT-F10


This. Might have to try several times, and wireless KB's don't always get initialized in time to get the key sequences in. I keep a standby USB KB for that.


----------



## Alesr50

Hi, Guys!

I 'm having some issues with my mobo, it's a GA-Z77X-D3H (Rev 1.0)

The Internet connection get lost without reason...and now I have some BSODs , i guess it's happening with the LAN drivers...but i've tried to update with the drivers what is at the gigabyte's site, but didn't work.

I don't think its coincidence, but these erros have started after I have updated the motherboard bios and the Lan drivers...

LAN drivers:

Atheros LAN driver 2.1.0.7

BIOS : F15

The description of BIOS F10, has "Add Atheros 8161 LAN chip support" , it's seems stranger ,isn't?

But, now I formated my pc and I installed drivers from Mobo CDs and get back the bios F6...but the lan problem continues...

My Config is:

I52500k (without OC)
Antec Kuhler 620
GA-Z77X-D3H
8GBDDR133 Corsair
eVGA GTX670 FTW
Season S12II Bronze 620W
Audigy 2 zs


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alesr50*
> 
> Hi, Guys!
> I 'm having some issues with my mobo, it's a GA-Z77X-D3H (Rev 1.0)
> The Internet connection get lost without reason...and now I have some BSODs , i guess it's happening with the LAN drivers...but i've tried to update with the drivers what is at the gigabyte's site, but didn't work.
> I don't think its coincidence, but these erros have started after I have updated the motherboard bios and the Lan drivers...
> LAN drivers:
> Atheros LAN driver 2.1.0.7
> BIOS : F15
> The description of BIOS F10, has "Add Atheros 8161 LAN chip support" , it's seems stranger ,isn't?
> But, now I formated my pc and I installed drivers from Mobo CDs and get back the bios F6...but the lan problem continues...
> My Config is:
> I52500k (without OC)
> Antec Kuhler 620
> GA-Z77X-D3H
> 8GBDDR133 Corsair
> eVGA GTX670 FTW
> Season S12II Bronze 620W
> Audigy 2 zs


you are not alone friend

stupid mobo has many problems, next time will go with asus

my lan disconnect itself too, try using usb with your modem or wifi, but lan sucks no matter what drivers, i had win7, win8, and every latest driver and everyone sucked

specially since i download a lot

if i use IDM (internet download manager) and do some browsing, the lan will surely die, and i have to restart pc, else won´t come back by windows repair network

if i use torrent there is 95% of chance lan dies again, very annoying,

lan sucks, period, it was made for people who only browse facebook and stuff, not for heavy traffic, connections, etc

the worse part is my speed is 1024 (120kbps download), but crap lan can´t handle 2 or 3 torrents, sometimes not even 1, sometimes even browsing it just dies

and yes, my lan cable is perfect, no virus, no nothing, i know because i have a crappy netbook with a realtek lan and that thing works perfect even with 5 torrents at the same time, VIA is crap too, many usb problems, even today after many bios updates and drivers, sometimes they refuse to work just like that

at least VIA audio, seems to works fine, but i trust realtek more instead of atheros/via


----------



## Alesr50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> you are not alone friend
> stupid mobo has many problems, next time will go with asus
> my lan disconnect itself too, try using usb with your modem or wifi, but lan sucks no matter what drivers, i had win7, win8, and every latest driver and everyone sucked
> specially since i download a lot
> if i use IDM (internet download manager) and do some browsing, the lan will surely die, and i have to restart pc, else won´t come back by windows repair network
> if i use torrent there is 95% of chance lan dies again, very annoying,
> lan sucks, period, it was made for people who only browse facebook and stuff, not for heavy traffic, connections, etc
> the worse part is my speed is 1024 (120kbps download), but crap lan can´t handle 2 or 3 torrents, sometimes not even 1, sometimes even browsing it just dies
> and yes, my lan cable is perfect, no virus, no nothing, i know because i have a crappy netbook with a realtek lan and that thing works perfect even with 5 torrents at the same time, VIA is crap too, many usb problems, even today after many bios updates and drivers, sometimes they refuse to work just like that
> at least VIA audio, seems to works fine, but i trust realtek more instead of atheros/via


Here it's happening the same things...and my speed is 8192 (aroud 1 Mb/s), and i have a notebook and the lan is work fine...

Just open my torrent client or just start update Diablo 3....my lan disconect

Do you install an another lan card?? Is it the only thing to do??

Here in my country (Brazil), I guess there is only an Asrock motherboard ((Z77 EXTREME 4) that has same features like GA-Z77X-D3H, the price of these motherboards here is around twice times from another countries (like USA), the ASUS is too expensive here (I don't know why...), and I don't have good experience with ASUS

Thx, for your reply


----------



## craney

I keep getting the warning with my Z77x-D3H that the bios has encounted an error on startup and do i want to load optimized defaults but this comes and goes its really strange. It will happen every boot for a few days and then wont happen again for weeks! Im still running F6 and im always wary about updating the bios. Even when its telling me i have encounted an error i just go into the bios press esc to cancel and it then boots into windows fine


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alesr50*
> 
> Here it's happening the same things...and my speed is 8192 (aroud 1 Mb/s), and i have a notebook and the lan is work fine...
> Just open my torrent client or just start update Diablo 3....my lan disconect
> Do you install an another lan card?? Is it the only thing to do??
> Here in my country (Brazil), I guess there is only an Asrock motherboard ((Z77 EXTREME 4) that has same features like GA-Z77X-D3H, the price of these motherboards here is around twice times from another countries (like USA), the ASUS is too expensive here (I don't know why...), and I don't have good experience with ASUS
> Thx, for your reply


if your modem has usb, then use that (if the crap via usb3 on the back works by luck XD)

or get a wifi router + usb wifi, it is the best

lan ethernet simply does not work on the ud3h and alike board, btw try latest driver here
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html


----------



## gizmo83

new beta bios f15t for ud5h. Just tested. For me a disaster because it's impossible enter into the bios using canc.


----------



## ivanlabrie

I'll try it once my board revives..and if it fixes issues with HYK0 Samsung Green ram...


----------



## Alesr50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craney*
> 
> I keep getting the warning with my Z77x-D3H that the bios has encounted an error on startup and do i want to load optimized defaults but this comes and goes its really strange. It will happen every boot for a few days and then wont happen again for weeks! Im still running F6 and im always wary about updating the bios. Even when its telling me i have encounted an error i just go into the bios press esc to cancel and it then boots into windows fine


My issues i had after update bios and update the drivers from gigabyte site...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> if your modem has usb, then use that (if the crap via usb3 on the back works by luck XD)
> or get a wifi router + usb wifi, it is the best
> lan ethernet simply does not work on the ud3h and alike board, btw try latest driver here
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html


I'll try update again...but i'll try to install a pci-x lan card , if doesn't work i go with usb wifi


----------



## s4e8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> new beta bios f15t for ud5h. Just tested. For me a disaster because it's impossible enter into the bios using canc.


Download and unpack F15t, no CPU microcode update at all. Don't known what's the changes.


----------



## freebeer187

Hi everyone. I am a new owner of a Z77X-UD3H motherboard. I have been running it for over a week now.

System build:
Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H Bios F17
Intel 3570K (intel boost at 3800Mhz) - Not overclocking yet, waiting for 4 pin to 8 pin adapter
2x 4GB Corsiar Vengance 1600
Saphire HD 5830
m4 SSD

I'm a long time Gigabyte user. Never had any serious problems. This board is the first on that is surprising me. First and formost, the 4 USB 3.0 slots on the back, the Via VL800 ones SUCK. They do not work for 2.0 as you all now. I even update the drivers to 1.9 from Via's web site. No change. I do not use them. From research, there are three 9 pin (8pin?) USB 2.0 headers on the board, which if I am not mistaken are controled by the intel USB controller (yayyyy!). Sorry if is against the rules to post links to eBay, I assure you I am not the seller of this item. The link of the one I purchased can be found here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Port-USB-2-0-Header-Host-Case-Rear-Panel-Bracket-Extension-for-MainBoard-New-/350546226562?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519e2eed82


Maby this might help someone? I have not used it personally yet, so I do not know if it is for sure controlled by intel, meaning no drops for 2.0, or the Via.

Other from the USB, there are no other gremlins that I can find. I read that someone had their LAN connection dropping. Thays scary. Never happend to me with hour long 2MB/sec (megabyte not bit) downloads.


----------



## foX2delta777

Okay, so I have a odd problem and hope someone has a solution.

I had a 1TB HDD in port 4 ((F, and it was disappearing every now and then (not listed in device manager anymore), so I was running low on space anyway so I got a 2TB to replace it and then moved that 1TB to port 5 (G and put the new one in port 4 so all was well......

However now the same thing is happening to a different hdd (aslo a 1TB) but it is in port 3 (E..

I tried updating both controller drivers but short of that I am not sure.

I should mention to get the HDD to reappear all you need to do is scan for hardware changes in device manager.

Config was this;
C: SSD
E: 1TB number 1
F: 1TB number 2 (was disappearing)
G: 500GB

and now is this;
C:SSD
E: 1TB number 1 (is now the one disappearing)
F: 2TB (new drive)
G: 1TB number 2 (is perfect,not disappearing at all)
H: 500GB

I should mention that it really only happens once ever 2days, some times 2-3times in a row (over 30min)


----------



## barkeater

Which SATA ports do you have your drives plugged into? What bios are you running?


----------



## foX2delta777

Okay so here's the layout

Before;
C (SSD) disk 0 port 1 (Intel)
E (1TB number 1) disk 1 port 4 (intel)
F (1TB number 2, one with original problems) disk 2 port 5 (intel)
G (500GB) disk 3 port M1 (Marvell)

and after
C disk 0 port 1 (Intel)
E (1TB number 1 (now with problems) disk 1 port 4 (intel)
F (2TB) disk 2 port 5 (intel)
G (1TB Number 2) disk 3 port M1 (Marvell)
H disk 4 port M2 (Marvell)

So yeah, problem has only shown on the intel controller and its appeared on different ports.

Oh and the bios is F9o I think


----------



## Sin0822

maybe t is going to sleep or something. Did you try using marvell ports instead?
Deff update the BIOS as it will update the firmware i think for the SATA controllers.


----------



## foX2delta777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> maybe t is going to sleep or something. Did you try using marvell ports instead?
> Deff update the BIOS as it will update the firmware i think for the SATA controllers.


Any bios you suggest I install? Latest one on tweak or gigabyte?

Have not yet tested the other ports but will update the drivers now and test for a while.

Will take a while cause the problem is mostly random.

Thanks.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s4e8*
> 
> Download and unpack F15t, no CPU microcode update at all. Don't known what's the changes.


Interesting. Basically I can't see any difference between it and F14 from a user point of view, so I don't know what they did either. I'm using a modded BIOS with the latest Intel RAID ROM added and it appears to be working well, so I guess I'll just leave it unless/until I see any problems. Haven't got around to overclocking yet since I've been working on other parts of a mostly new build (new except mobo and cpu).


----------



## h2on0

I'm running the f15t bios. I really can't see any difference.

edit: I'm such a dummy. I did notice notice a difference in this bios. The mouse control is now no longer inverted, it's a heck of a lot easier to move around in the uefi(sp?)


----------



## nickybg87

Hi boys, I'm new here. I have a little problem that is bodering me. I tried to overclock my i5 3570k with Z77 UD3H mobo, but it was not very stable at 4.4ghz and 1.35v . Windows is booting, but wnen testing with Prime some aplications starts to crash and somethimes restarts. I was looking this video 



 and I was shocked to see that this guy's vcore on stock (auto) is shown as 1.100v while mine is 1.270v. IS IT NORMAL, because I think that might be a problem, what you think? Somebody else with the same config i5 3570k and UD3H?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Guys with f15t, specially Samsung green users...can you test for ram overclocking improvements? Wonder if there're any...


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickybg87*
> 
> Hi boys, I'm new here. I have a little problem that is bodering me. I tried to overclock my i5 3570k with Z77 UD3H mobo, but it was not very stable at 4.4ghz and 1.35v . Windows is booting, but wnen testing with Prime some aplications starts to crash and somethimes restarts. I was looking this video
> 
> 
> 
> and I was shocked to see that this guy's vcore on stock (auto) is shown as 1.100v while mine is 1.270v. IS IT NORMAL, because I think that might be a problem, what you think? Somebody else with the same config i5 3570k and UD3H?


What's your LLC?

That might be normal, I need 1.32v for 4.4 Ghz and 1.36v for 4.5 Ghz. It all depends on how lucky you are with your chip.


----------



## h2on0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Guys with f15t, specially Samsung green users...can you test for ram overclocking improvements? Wonder if there're any...


I'm not the most scientific person.(disclaimer) When I was on f14 I had to use a +0.030 vid offset and I had my 1600mhz 9-9-9-24-2t ram at 2133 @[email protected](this was as high as I could get). With f15t I am at 4.5 with a vid of +0.020 and I was able to get my ram up to 220[email protected] with 1.66mv. With these settings I've done 3 passes in linx(about 30 mins) I've succesfully booted into linux(I have problems if overclock not stable) and succesfully compiled a few roms for my phone(I like using this as a test for overclock stability because it is cpu intensive). I am currently an hour into prime with my temps in the high 80's low 90's(I know, I am afraid to delid, what can I say, I am very tempted to give it a shot.)

thats it.


----------



## spera

Hi! I mounted the gigabyte z77x ud5h yesterday and i have problems with the ram, the ram is (CML16GX3M4X1600C8) if the ram is set with the config of spd 1333 cl9 the ram runs perfect,but set in XMP 1600 cl8 1.5v the motherboard freezes and i have to reboot if i put 1600 manually the motherboard freeze again only in 1333 runs normaly, whats the problem? i tried f4 bios f7 bios and the last bios but every bios crash.

the freeze are in windows i can run windows with 10 minutes 20 minutes aletory time , with manual linx can do one test but in the second freeze

need help Rma Motherboard? `incompatibility ram?

Sorry for mi english i´m Spanish


----------



## stasio

^To run 4x4GB ,increase Vtt ~1.10-1.12V


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> ^To run 4x4GB ,increase Vtt ~1.10-1.12V


with one dim of ram linx say stoped upon error after 5m 23s always
Ok ,use linx to veryfi stability?

i tried with Vtt 1.12 the first time windos screen and shutdown the second time desktop and freeze, disable XMP and now perfect, what the hell


----------



## h2on0

What would be the highest we could set Vtt at?


----------



## spera

is impossible to set the ram on XMP or 1600mhz the sistem shutdown or freeze, RMA ram? RMA motherboard?


----------



## Sin0822

that is very odd, that should be very easy to obtain, can you try 1 stick at a time, see if 1 of the sticks refuses to do it.


----------



## spera

if i use one stick i have problem with lix error but not freeze or shutdown,if i put the stick in ddr slot 1 linx problem if i put stick in ddr slot 3 no have problems


----------



## spera

(CML16GX3M4X1600C8) The ram can ben incompatible with z77?


----------



## spera

Sorry for triple post, i test with memtest 2hours and 100% pass, ***¿ and windows freeze,, if i dont use usb 2.0 with XMP the pc dont freeze ***!!!!!?


----------



## barkeater

As this memory is not listed as compatible using the Corsair site memory finder, I would suggest contacting Corsair and asking them what they suggest. Likely you will have to set the memory timings manually and will not be able to use the xmp profile (as you have already learned). Also may post in the Corsair forum as they can be very helpful. Good luck.


----------



## noob360

Hi guys, I'm in love with this UD5H however it's damn expensive at my end. When I read review about it at TweakTown they used word "bargain at $180" for the UD5H due to it's features and etc. My question is if it's bargain at 180 USD, does it worth $230 or what at max one should spend on this quality motherboard? Remember, it's the non-WiFi version. I'm sorry if it's not allowed to ask such questions please redirect me to appropriate section, I'd be grateful. Thanks.


----------



## spera

Now without using usb 2.0, linx 8 hours with xmp no issues

Edit: whit otther mobo the ram with xmp freeze the pc,withouth xmp fine,Rma? incompatibility ? thanks a lot


----------



## spera

Everest say Voltaje 1.50 V (Controlador de memoria: 1.20 V) Vtt 1.20v tu run ok?

Edited: nop


----------



## stasio

Everest is obsolete,use AIDA64.


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Everest is obsolete,use AIDA64.


aida sorry is what I keep calling everest,

5 hours linx test all ram stable with set ram 1.560v 1600mhz cl9 manually and vtt 1.130v

but now triying to play bf3 Tachan Freeze OMG


----------



## freebeer187

I have a few fixes that I have compiled for my Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H.

2 Problems. 1. Via USB 3.0 ports dropping
2. System randomly freezes/hangs until restarted (seemed to happen at idle)

For the USB ports, I ordered a rear 4 port usb card that pluged into two free usb 2.0 pin headers. I then disabled the via ports in device manager.

For the system freezing, I set the multiplyer in the bios to 100.01. Someone mentioned that when they did that the system no longer would freeze. I also have experienced no system hangs when I did this about a week ago. Now that these problems are solved this board is working great!


----------



## spera

I can change the memory,,this run fine G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3 2133 PC3-17000 16GB 2x8GB CL9 ?


----------



## cowie

My 7970 does not work on the ud5h as i have looked around one then one said the had same issues as i am having...card boots in three other mb's and other cards boot up fine.
Tried all gen settings and some legacy settings still but no go
*edit
in Legacy rom it booted


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

I need some help with my Z77X UP7 drivers. They keep freezing on install, even when I open them manually.


----------



## battlecryawesome

You have to do a fresh install.


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battlecryawesome*
> 
> You have to do a fresh install.


Yeah I did that and I'm all up and running now.

I was wondering if you could help me out with overclocking too. There seems to be a TON of options with this board and they are named differently than my asus too so I have no idea how to adjust voltages and things.


----------



## battlecryawesome

The IVY oc guide that Sin did will work, its really good.
Here you go big boy..
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

In his guide he uses UD5H and UD3H I think. So the bios is about the same.
There are no driver s for xp to run the wifi. just an FYI.


----------



## MME1122

Hey everyone, I'm currently on BIOS F11 on my UD3H. I'm wondering if it's worth it to update to F17 or not. I see people complaining about RAM issues with F17, and I don't know what it's supposed to be improve. So right now I have to reason to update, but I don't know if I'm missing something.


----------



## barkeater

your not having issues don't update. enjoy your computer


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Has anyone had good luck with higher speed memory on this board? I'm not having the best luck getting my sammy 30nm ICs past 1866mhz.


----------



## battlecryawesome

My 2400s run very well, i booted at 2666 and pushed them up to 2800. so No problems here.


----------



## battlecryawesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> Has anyone had good luck with higher speed memory on this board? I'm not having the best luck getting my sammy 30nm ICs past 1866mhz.


I have been changing settings in the 3d/voltage page and it would nt let me boot at 2400, the most i could boot at was 2200, so if you get something wrong in there then i guess it could be a problem.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battlecryawesome*
> 
> I have been changing settings in the 3d/voltage page and it would nt let me boot at 2400, the most i could boot at was 2200, so if you get something wrong in there then i guess it could be a problem.


What are your settings for 2400 or more?
I couldn't get it no matter what...with my former board (now dead ud5h







)


----------



## battlecryawesome

Well the ram i have are 2400s so if i set everything to defalt and then set to 2400 at stock timing - 9 11 11 28 - it boots and runs awesome.
The voltage page I would have to look, but if you go to Sins ivy OC guide he has a picture that shows the setting that work.


----------



## gizmo83

4.4 ghz ht on. what do you think about?


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> 4.4 ghz ht on. what do you think about?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The pic is too small and you can't read those numbers well
Your score of 8.93 isn't bad, however. +1Rep









http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/gigabyte_z77x_ud5h_wifi_review,12.html
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cpu_mainboard/gigabyte_z77x-ud5h_review/10

How did you do it? Or it's because of your other (Gtx 690) Gigabyte beast


----------



## gizmo83




----------



## kmg12321

hey guys, i have a GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H motherboard and its great, having a small problem though i have installed the USB 3.0 bracket and plugged it into the USB 3 motherboard connector near the 20+4 power input and they don't seem to be working but in device manage it says they are installed and working without trouble, could i have some help please?

EDIT* and could someone label on a picture where the temp sensors are on this board because i have a spare spot cool fan and a sensor says 55C when gaming


----------



## mandrix

Are you looking at the PCH temperature being 55c? If so that's pretty normal and you are not going to blow anything up.

Now I have a question for anyone. When setting the primary graphics device in the BIOS, the slots are labeled as xx, xx, etc (substitute real numbers here-I don't remember them).
Which numbers correspond to which slots? This never made it into the manual I think.
I've always left this on Auto but since both my rigs run crossfire setups I'm curious.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I am not happy with my 4.6GHz OC. I need 1.35v to get it stable. Is there any setting i can change to allow me to lower vCore? I am getting ~ 82C Prime 95 with custom Loop.


----------



## battlecryawesome

Thats more on the cpu, someone said pll might help but i dont see how.


----------



## foX2delta777

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foX2delta777*
> 
> Okay so here's the layout
> Before;
> C (SSD) disk 0 port 1 (Intel)
> E (1TB number 1) disk 1 port 4 (intel)
> F (1TB number 2, one with original problems) disk 2 port 5 (intel)
> G (500GB) disk 3 port M1 (Marvell)
> and after
> C disk 0 port 1 (Intel)
> E (1TB number 1 (now with problems) disk 1 port 4 (intel)
> F (2TB) disk 2 port 5 (intel)
> G (1TB Number 2) disk 3 port M1 (Marvell)
> H disk 4 port M2 (Marvell)
> So yeah, problem has only shown on the intel controller and its appeared on different ports.
> Oh and the bios is F9o I think






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> maybe t is going to sleep or something. Did you try using marvell ports instead?
> Deff update the BIOS as it will update the firmware i think for the SATA controllers.


Okay so first I updated the drivers and bios, and after two days in came back, then I changed other the ports (moved E to port 2 (INTEL) and I can say I haven't had that exact problem.... but the other day I switched on, hung on windows logo, then restarted, then hung on desktop, then switched off, restarted and hung again on desktop, then restarted and in came right....... may need a format, really dont have the time for that just right now.

So I will test some more, and if I still have issues a reformat is the only option I guess.


----------



## rageofthepeon

Has anyone been able to access the bios under Windows 8 UEFI firmware settings?

Just installed Windows 8 and won't get to tinker with it until tomorrow night. I seriously hope I don't have to spam the F12 key...Windows 8 + SSD boot times are ridiculous.


----------



## Andrios

I can usually get it by spamming "delete".

Also there should be an option under "settings / general / advanced startup" in windows 8.

Then click "troubleshooting". You should see a tile that says "uefi firmware settings"

Me personally I don't see it, I'm not sure if I did the uefi boot correct its really confusing. I would love to see 8-10 sec boot times but fastest I see is 22 secs.

It does show I have uefi enabled in system setting on windows 8.

Maybe ud3h can't boot as fast as those videos showing 8-10 sec boot times?


----------



## rageofthepeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrios*
> 
> I can usually get it by spamming "delete".
> Also there should be an option under "settings / general / advanced startup" in windows 8.
> Then click "troubleshooting". You should see a tile that says "uefi firmware settings"
> Me personally I don't see it, I'm not sure if I did the uefi boot correct its really confusing. I would love to see 8-10 sec boot times but fastest I see is 22 secs.
> It does show I have uefi enabled in system setting on windows 8.
> Maybe ud3h can't boot as fast as those videos showing 8-10 sec boot times?


I was able to get into the BIOS spamming F12 each time but I don't see the tile for UEFI firmware settings either /shrug.


----------



## tfouto

hi,

I have installed Windows 8 on my UD5H and USB 3.0 speeds really sucks... On Windows 7 i was getting +100MB/s, now on windows 8 i never get more then 30MB/S...

Anyone knows why?


----------



## Andrios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tfouto*
> 
> hi,
> I have installed Windows 8 on my UD5H and USB 3.0 speeds really sucks... On Windows 7 i was getting +100MB/s, now on windows 8 i never get more then 30MB/S...
> Anyone knows why?


Maybe you need to re install the USB 3.0 drivers.


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrios*
> 
> Maybe you need to re install the USB 3.0 drivers.


As with most things on windows 8, the drivers probably aren't compatable.


----------



## rageofthepeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tfouto*
> 
> hi,
> I have installed Windows 8 on my UD5H and USB 3.0 speeds really sucks... On Windows 7 i was getting +100MB/s, now on windows 8 i never get more then 30MB/S...
> Anyone knows why?


Are you using the correct drivers from the website?

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#dl


----------



## tfouto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rageofthepeon*
> 
> Are you using the correct drivers from the website?
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#dl


There are no USB drivers yet on the site. Only for Windows7. I guess i have to wait, or reinstall Windows 7 again...


----------



## Andrios

Anyone install bios f18 for ud3h yet? Something about cpu microcode...can anyone explain what that means?

Thanks


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tfouto*
> 
> There are no USB drivers yet on the site. Only for Windows7. I guess i have to wait, or reinstall Windows 7 again...


Windows 8 has USB 3.0 drivers built-in. No USB driver installation required. My USB 3.0 flash drive was working fine in Windows 8 RP. Since I installed the final version last week, my device is no longer recognized on USB 3.0 ports. So I am now using USB 2.0 ports for it until something gets fixed :-(
However, it is a Corsair Flash Voyager GT that I have already RMAd once, so I expect the problem could be the device again. I haven't had time to think about it.

Also, before GB had Win8 drivers on its UD5H page, I had no trouble using the Win7 drivers (except for USB 3 of course).

Finally, for the Advanced startup options:
Settings(lower right) / Change PC Settings / General / scroll down to Advanced startup / Restart now


----------



## gizmo83

I tried the f15c beta bios for Ud5h. Works fine.


----------



## rapboyhed

Hi guys , I m new here and I got a brand new z77x-ud3h but I cant manage to install my video card ( gtx 670 ) , at this time I m on vga connection and its working but as soon as I install my gtx 670 it wont boot . Any advice will be much apriciated .

ps: i got the latest bios installed .


also I cant use the first slot because of that mofo cooler , can that be what is causing me troubles ?


----------



## chris-br

Are you sure that is a real 550W power supply, i would imagine you need more than that for a 670.

EDIT: Also, what cpu are you using?? More info on your system would help.


----------



## rapboyhed

[SOLVED]

Well all component are new . PSU is http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-550w-fatal1ty-series-power-supply.html
CPU is i5 3570k
CPU cooler is DeepCool Whale Killer Premium
I got 1 ssd and 1 hdd installed + 1 dvdwr
4x2 ddr3 kingston

[My solution]
I removed all rams and turned on pc . After alarm went one I turned off again and install 1 x 2gb ddr3 ram and powerd system on . It worked , my gtx670 with hdmi connection , and after that I installed 1 x 2gb each until I installed 4x2gb , and now it works . I cant tell you why but if some else has the same problem they should try rams first !


----------



## h2on0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> I tried the f15c beta bios for Ud5h. Works fine.


I'm on 15t, have you noticed any changes or improvements?

Thanks


----------



## gizmo83

f15c is fine like a f14 bios. I don't know the changelog but i have only noticed that my mouse now works correctly in the bios.


----------



## zombo

Just installed Windows 8 and can't get sleep mode to work properly with this board, have all latest drivers and BIOS, but maybe 2 out of 6 times the system crashes upon waking up from sleep mode (s3 sleep) the hard drives spin up, lights come on, but then screen does not show up, stays blank, and system is unresponsive, numlock etc do not do anything, no hdd activity.


----------



## Andrios

Hey guys wondering if its ok to set a dynamic vcore with llc set to turbo on my 3570k??


----------



## Sin0822

yea why not, but for offset lower llc leve might be better.


----------



## PetGz

My best settings for Samsung 30nm YK0 @ 2200mhz with F18 Bios UD3H, 5 runs LinX estable.



All in auto except 2200mhz 9-11-10-28 and voltage, I´m waiting for new bios for set 2400mhz.

I only can set 2400mhz with previous bios in 2x4gb Kingston Predator 2400mhz 11-13-13 ( Hynix CFR) with XMP @ 11-13-11 estable and 2x2gb G.Skill Trident 2000mhz 9-9-9 (Elpida BBSE) @ 2400mhz 9-11-9 not estable.

*Sin0822* ( thanks for your guides and MB reviews







), I've tried with your OC memory settings but it is impossible for 2400mhz with any voltage and timming. any advice or better expect an update?


----------



## Andrios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea why not, but for offset lower llc leve might be better.


Ok cool for some reason I thought to use one or the other but using both makes sense. Thanks!!


----------



## Andrios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetGz*
> 
> My best settings for Samsung 30nm YK0 @ 2200mhz with F18 Bios UD3H, 5 runs LinX estable.
> 
> All in auto except 2200mhz 9-11-10-28 and voltage, I´m waiting for new bios for set 2400mhz.
> I only can set 2400mhz with previous bios in 2x4gb Kingston Predator 2400mhz 11-13-13 ( Hynix CFR) with XMP @ 11-13-11 estable and 2x2gb G.Skill Trident 2000mhz 9-9-9 (Elpida BBSE) @ 2400mhz 9-11-9 not estable.
> *Sin0822* ( thanks for your guides and MB reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I've tried with your OC memory settings but it is impossible for 2400mhz with any voltage and timming. any advice or better expect an update?


What are your temps like with 1.28v @4.8ghz on your cpu?? Are you stable with such low volts? Or is that not full load voltage?

What kind of settings did you use to get stable like that on your cpu?

Nice ram, I just got the same kit. [email protected] don't wanna go higher as I only use the rig for gaming and surfing web.


----------



## PetGz

24/7, estable 8h. prime blend with Silver Arrow tri-fan + MX4 ( no lapped, stock DIE tim). Possibly try 5.0ghz (1.360-1.380v.) estable with Themaltake water extreme or custom water cooling.

Temp. 5min. prime blend, for linx at 4.5ghz ( 85-90ºc)


----------



## gizmo83

4.6 ghz ht on


----------



## AlphaC

New version of Easytune 6
B12.1012.1 42.59 MB 2012/11/07
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#utility
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4153#utility


----------



## Andrios

Just did an 18 hour Prime95 blend test!

Set Vcore @ NORMAL with dynamic set @ +.09

Ram at 1866 [email protected] 1.39v

Everything else on auto.


----------



## Sin0822

nice job man.


----------



## spera

Now i changed the corsair 4x4 16gb 1600 cl8 1.5v for F3-1600C9S-8GXM / F3-1600C9D 16GXM 2x8gb 1600 cl9 1.5v, and my PC freezes again, when i put 2x4gb ram my pc run fine with friends ram, now with this ram freezes again,this is normal? only freezes in 1600


----------



## barkeater

Try testing each stick one at a time with memtest with everything in bios at optimized settings and ram on profile 1. If everything checks out (no errors) then test by loading two at a time in dual channel mode. If no issues, load with two, boot, then add other two. Also try all four but set timings manually at stock instead of using profile. Should also contact Corsair forum and ask them for suggestions.


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Try testing each stick one at a time with memtest with everything in bios at optimized settings and ram on profile 1. If everything checks out (no errors) then test by loading two at a time in dual channel mode. If no issues, load with two, boot, then add other two. Also try all four but set timings manually at stock instead of using profile. Should also contact Corsair forum and ask them for suggestions.


Now the ram is gskill, i turn off the ram and place it again and run good but the bios freeze, and yesterday windows dont recognize the usb 3.0 front says unknow decive, do a Cmos reset and works agains this failures are normaly? whats the best bios


----------



## chris-br

I use the f14. no issues here


----------



## spera

I have the same bios F14, now i realize the rma,in the store offers to change for the same model or try other,

i list this motherboards

Msi z77 gd 65
Asrock z77 Fatal1ty Professional
Asus p8z77 deluxe

I like so so so so much my gigabite this issues(Freezes in windows freezes in bios q flash no found and i have to do cmos to use this,and problem with front usb 3.0(windows recognize with uknow decive Cmos reset and be good again) this problems are normal?)

I do change it for another or ask an equal?

Post data: Anyone with 16gb ram? with 8gb ram the motherboards run fine two weebs except front usb 3.0 i have to do cmos every 3 days to use the front usb, with 16gb the motherboards behaved as hell .

Thanks a lot sorry for my english


----------



## ivanlabrie

If they offered a ROG board I'd jump ship...not sure on that p8z77 deluxe though. Hard choice.


----------



## chris-br

With those choices, i would try the same board again, but a new one


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> With those choices, i would try the same board again, but a new one


I think the same, but i am worried because 16gb ram if i use 8gb the boards rock solid(usb 3.0 front error only)

asrock-> i thinks this mark is low level mark
Asus-->bad experience with this mark to asus m2n freezr m4n78pro dead buuf.
Msi->i dont know i didnt have any board
Gigabyte-> MA790x-ud3p exelect result.

i hope my new ud5h comes good


----------



## DeXel

I have none of the problems that you mentioned. I have 2x8 GB sticks. If you like this board, give it another chance, but make sure it's not from the same bunch (compare serial numbers) to be safe.


----------



## freebeer187

How come you guys are using f14 bios and not the new f17/f18 bios?

EDIT - NM I think you guys are using the UD5H and not the 3H like me.


----------



## spera

Yes Dexel you have all the reason i verifid the serial when its come,,and yes i like the color of this motherboard is beatiful,the asrock red black and brown is terribe, and the asus deluxe so simple


----------



## biassj

Anyone have problems with wake on LAN? My NIC receives all magic packets using Wireshark to monitor. It works when I hit the sleep button but it doesn't work once my power supply fully sleeps it seems. Also, Tomato doesn't pick it up under WOL when goes deep sleep. I'm thinking my power supply doesn't want to power it up or something but my NIC still has the green blinking light even in this self called deep sleep. Doesn't work for both Intel and Qualcomm Nics, also using my 3G from my Android to send magic packets.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spera*
> 
> Now i changed the corsair 4x4 16gb 1600 cl8 1.5v for F3-1600C9S-8GXM / F3-1600C9D 16GXM 2x8gb 1600 cl9 1.5v, and my PC freezes again, when i put 2x4gb ram my pc run fine with friends ram, now with this ram freezes again,this is normal? only freezes in 1600


Couple of things. First, that Corsair kit is not on their approved list for this board. Doesn't mean it can't work, but they haven't tested it and can't confirm so you would have to try and fiddle with things manually and likely not be able to use the XMP profile (as you found out. Sounds like you were able to get 2 sticks to work, but not all 4. OK, now your trying something else.

As you say, now your using Gskill. This is where I'm a little confused. You say your using "F3-1600C9S-8GXM / F3-1600C9D 16GXM 2x8gb 1600 cl9 1.5v". The "F3-1600C9S-8GXM" is a single 8GB stick, and the "F3-1600C9D 16GXM" is a 2 stick kit, each stick being 8GB (2x8) for a total of 16 GB. Are you saying your using both at the same time (i.e., all 3 sticks?). If so, that is not recommended and may be the reason your having problems. If you are just using the F3-1600C9D 16GXM (which I think you are) then again this is not on Gskill's recommended list for this board. Again, doesn't mean it won't work, but the XMP profile won't work and if there is any chance of getting it to work you will have to set settings manually, but there are no guarantees it is going to work at stated speed. You can contact Gskill and see what they recommend for this kit on your board.

Your best bet is to select a kit that is on the ram suppliers recommended list for this board.


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Couple of things. First, that Corsair kit is not on their approved list for this board. Doesn't mean it can't work, but they haven't tested it and can't confirm so you would have to try and fiddle with things manually and likely not be able to use the XMP profile (as you found out. Sounds like you were able to get 2 sticks to work, but not all 4. OK, now your trying something else.
> As you say, now your using Gskill. This is where I'm a little confused. You say your using "F3-1600C9S-8GXM / F3-1600C9D 16GXM 2x8gb 1600 cl9 1.5v". The "F3-1600C9S-8GXM" is a single 8GB stick, and the "F3-1600C9D 16GXM" is a 2 stick kit, each stick being 8GB (2x8) for a total of 16 GB. Are you saying your using both at the same time (i.e., all 3 sticks?). If so, that is not recommended and may be the reason your having problems. If you are just using the F3-1600C9D 16GXM (which I think you are) then again this is not on Gskill's recommended list for this board. Again, doesn't mean it won't work, but the XMP profile won't work and if there is any chance of getting it to work you will have to set settings manually, but there are no guarantees it is going to work at stated speed. You can contact Gskill and see what they recommend for this kit on your board.
> Your best bet is to select a kit that is on the ram suppliers recommended list for this board.


No my new ram is this http://gskill.com/products.php?index=493 --->F3-1600C9D-16GXM(8Gx2)

i do the rma of the board my friend have a msi gd 65 and has memory until my motherboard comes again,, he says rune fine but in my rma board freezes (in windows in bios all) usb 3.0 front doestn work ect


----------



## spera

Mother of god, i do the rma of mi motherboard,but now my friends call me to the phone and says that gskills ram do:

Blue screen in his pc and programs error google chrome error ect,, what the hell,,

Two marks of ram Corsair and G Skill and two problems,,

Anyone with problems with this ram? F3-1600C9D-16GXM(8Gx2)

the friends board are msi gd 65


----------



## devilangel

Hi guys this will be my 1st fresh install of the z77x UD3H, i always update bios to the last one since the amd socket 939 and always used ASUS, no problems so far. Now, since this is my 1st Gigabyte mobo wich bios update should i use or should i update all of them in ascendant order (F7,F8,F9...). I'll use 2x4gb of Crucial Tactical Tracer memory. One more thing i purchased a xigmatek aegir, theres no need to remove the stock back plate of the mobo, right?

Thanks a lot!


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilangel*
> 
> Hi guys this will be my 1st fresh install of the z77x UD3H, i always update bios to the last one since the amd socket 939 and always used ASUS, no problems so far. Now, since this is my 1st Gigabyte mobo wich bios update should i use or should i update all of them in ascendant order (F7,F8,F9...). I'll use 2x4gb of Crucial Tactical Tracer memory. One more thing i purchased a xigmatek aegir, theres no need to remove the stock back plate of the mobo, right?
> Thanks a lot!


i have thermaltake frio and i not remove the backplate. for bios you can udgrape with q Flash to the last bios no problem, good board is beatiful


----------



## DeXel

Just flash the latest using q-flash.

And don't remove backplate, it's attached to socked locking system IIRC.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spera*
> 
> No my new ram is this http://gskill.com/products.php?index=493 --->F3-1600C9D-16GXM(8Gx2)
> i do the rma of the board my friend have a msi gd 65 and has memory until my motherboard comes again,, he says rune fine but in my rma board freezes (in windows in bios all) usb 3.0 front doestn work ect


OK, that makes more sense. Still, I do not see it on Gskill's approved list for this mobo so that may have something to do with why your having problems. RMA'ing the mobo just because you can't get an unapproved ram kit to work makes no sense but do what you wish.

Likely reason not working on your friends board is for same reason. Again, likely nothing wrong with your mobo, you just need to get a ram kit from either Gigabyte's approved list for that mobo, or off the approved list of the ram supplier for that mobo. If you insist on selecting ram that is not on either list you will at the very least have to set up manually and even then may not get to work. Make life easier for yourself and get an approved ram kit


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> OK, that makes more sense. Still, I do not see it on Gskill's approved list for this mobo so that may have something to do with why your having problems. RMA'ing the mobo just because you can't get an unapproved ram kit to work makes no sense but do what you wish.
> Likely reason not working on your friends board is for same reason. Again, likely nothing wrong with your mobo, you just need to get a ram kit from either Gigabyte's approved list for that mobo, or off the approved list of the ram supplier for that mobo. If you insist on selecting ram that is not on either list you will at the very least have to set up manually and even then may not get to work. Make life easier for yourself and get an approved ram kit


Ejem
Look in the middle http://gskill.com/products.php?index=493

Qualified Motherboards List
ASUS MAXIMUS V Formula <

Friend motherboard
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H <

My motherboard
MSI Z77A-GD65<

other friend motherboard

its strange memtest pass 4 hours , but windows BSOD,, this ram are compatibility i see in the list


----------



## Lucario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2on0*
> 
> I'm on 15t, have you noticed any changes or improvements?
> Thanks


When I was on older versions (somewhere since F10) I started to have weird issues with my SATA devices, especially for Samsung bluray drive (SH-B123L). I thought it was just that my BD started to failing on me but now I realized it was just bad BIOS when I tried out F15c.

I would say that changes in F15c since F14 are SATA device bugfixes and decaffeinated the mouse cursor.


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I have none of the problems that you mentioned. I have 2x8 GB sticks. If you like this board, give it another chance, but make sure it's not from the same bunch (compare serial numbers) to be safe.


you chage the voltage of ram north bridge memory controller??? my friend with 4x4 gb gskill has BSOD with 16gb of ram too, and i have problem to with corsair 16gb gskill,all


----------



## DeXel

Nope. You may need it though since you are using all 4 dimms.


----------



## ThePaperRoute

Alright so i set multi to 36 and turn turbo off but when im in windows cpuz, coretemp, and windows itself says im at a multi of 40 ?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spera*
> 
> Ejem
> Look in the middle http://gskill.com/products.php?index=493
> Qualified Motherboards List
> ASUS MAXIMUS V Formula <
> 
> Friend motherboard
> Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H <
> 
> My motherboard
> MSI Z77A-GD65<
> 
> other friend motherboard
> its strange memtest pass 4 hours , but windows BSOD,, this ram are compatibility i see in the list


OK, I was looking in a different part of the gskill website for compatibility and overlooked them. If you have run memtest on each stick one at a time and found no problems then I suggest contacting gskill and aksing them what they suggest. Again, my apologies for not seeing them on the list (Oops).


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> OK, I was looking in a different part of the gskill website for compatibility and overlooked them. If you have run memtest on each stick one at a time and found no problems then I suggest contacting gskill and aksing them what they suggest. Again, my apologies for not seeing them on the list (Oops).


No problem xD, but it's strange my friend have this kit http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=469m, and he has problems with BSOD one moth ago random BSOD from time to time, but he gaves me 2 modules of ram 8gb in total while I was doing the rma of corsair ram (2 Weeks) and in those two weeks the bsod ceased and I had no problems with the other two modules that left me, I just put the two modules again and again has bsod, I'm thinking of changing the 16gb for 8gb kit, here goes with the 16gb with Z77? 3 diferents kits 16gb 4x4gb corsair 4x4 gskill 2x8 gskill, all bad?


----------



## h2on0

For the ud3h
The latest is actually f19a.

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-679.html


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spera*
> 
> Ejem
> Look in the middle http://gskill.com/products.php?index=493
> Qualified Motherboards List
> ASUS MAXIMUS V Formula <
> 
> Friend motherboard
> Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H <
> 
> My motherboard
> MSI Z77A-GD65<
> 
> other friend motherboard
> its strange memtest pass 4 hours , but windows BSOD,, this ram are compatibility i see in the list


did you do one stick at a time with memtest? 4 hrs is not long enough, should run each at least 12 hrs. What error message when you bsod?


----------



## spera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> did you do one stick at a time with memtest? 4 hrs is not long enough, should run each at least 12 hrs. What error message when you bsod?


irql_not_less_or_equal and many many Google Chrome errors


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I just bought some new RAM. Its DDR3-2400 with XMP. When i apply XMP it does not work. My older RAM with XMP 1600 does work. What is the problem?


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I just bought some new RAM. Its DDR3-2400 with XMP. When i apply XMP it does not work. My older RAM with XMP 1600 does work. What is the problem?


Is there more then one XMP profile? Did you set the volts for it first?


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I just bought some new RAM. Its DDR3-2400 with XMP. When i apply XMP it does not work. My older RAM with XMP 1600 does work. What is the problem?


I've recently purchased two 8gb (2x4gb) sets of 2400MHz ram. Mushkin Enhanced Redline and Corsair Vengeance. Both don't run with stock XMP settings.

Try this. With XMP enabled, try changing timings to quick, and set channel A TRRD to 7. All other settings on default. This was true with the UD5H and UP4. More info here.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephimports*
> 
> I've recently purchased two 8gb (2x4gb) sets of 2400MHz ram. Mushkin Enhanced Redline and Corsair Vengeance. Both don't run with stock XMP settings.
> Try this. With XMP enabled, try changing timings to quick, and set channel A TRRD to 7. All other settings on default. This was true with the UD5H and UP4. More info here.


Ok i will try that.


----------



## mystikalrush

First time Intel owner here, just got me the UD3H and was curious for other owners of the similar. Does yalls mobo have an orange led light up right under the 1st PCI-E slot? What is this anyways?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*
> 
> First time Intel owner here, just got me the UD3H and was curious for other owners of the similar. Does yalls mobo have an orange led light up right under the 1st PCI-E slot? What is this anyways?


BIOS selection.


----------



## battlecryawesome

Your board has a dual bios , you can move the switch over you will see the light move to the other bios.

The new f5g bio s is nice I can boot at 2666 no problem now.


----------



## mandrix

So, which numbers correspond with which PCIe slots on the board?
I've always run this on Auto but a few times I've booted with no graphics and wondering if the primary card isn't being detected.

(click for larger pic)


----------



## Sin0822

slot 1 is the first 16x slot, slot 2 is the 2nd pci-e 16x slot and the slot 3 is the last slot.


----------



## Doom2k

Greetings,

I'm currently in the market to buy the *GA-Z77X-UD5H* but as some reviews and people have mentioned, there looks like there's a clearance issue involving the first pcie slot and the chipset heatsink which is quite tall. I was wondering if someone can provide feedback regarding the issue. I'm particularly interested in people that are using the board in conjunction with an EVGA GTX 680 FTW (4gb edition) or a similarly sized card from EVGA.

Also, is there any difference between the heatsink on the regular and wifi edition of the board as I was unable to find out for myself.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## mandrix

double post


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> slot 1 is the first 16x slot, slot 2 is the 2nd pci-e 16x slot and the slot 3 is the last slot.


I know where they are on the board, but PEG60 and all that don't really make any sense to me.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doom2k*
> 
> Greetings,
> I'm currently in the market to buy this particular board but as some reviews and people have mentioned, there looks like there's a clearance issue involving the first pcie slot and the chipset heatsink which is quite tall. I was wondering if someone can provide feedback regarding the issue. I'm particularly interested in people that are using the board in conjunction with an EVGA GTX 680 FTW (4gb edition) or a similarly sized card from EVGA.
> Also, is there any difference between the heatsink on the regular and wifi edition of the board as I was unable to find out for myself.
> Thanks in advance.


No difference in heatsinks, it doesn't stick out that much. If you get a UP4 TH or UP5 TH then those have taller sinks that might interfere with something like a radiator mounted in the top of the case.


----------



## jprovido

why can't my motherboard recover properly from a bad overclock? I had to open the side panel and reset the cmos every single time. so annoying


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> why can't my motherboard recover properly from a bad overclock? I had to open the side panel and reset the cmos every single time. so annoying


What happens after a failed post or boot?


----------



## Doom2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I know where they are on the board, but PEG60 and all that don't really make any sense to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No difference in heatsinks, it doesn't stick out that much. If you get a UP4 TH or UP5 TH then those have taller sinks that might interfere with something like a radiator mounted in the top of the case.


But in relation to graphics card fitment, will there be sufficient clearance without it touching the card and causing heat issues?

Thanks.


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephimports*
> 
> What happens after a failed post or boot?


it will keep on booting with that bad overclock which results to an endless cycle of crashing in the bios or during boot up. it's really annoying tbh


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> it will keep on booting with that bad overclock which results to an endless cycle of crashing in the bios or during boot up. it's really annoying tbh


Well, that's normal for some motherboards. All my previous motherboards did that. Not all motherboards reset to defaults by themselves in case of bad OC.


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Well, that's normal for some motherboards. All my previous motherboards did that. Not all motherboards reset to defaults by themselves in case of bad OC.


my previous gigabyte motherboard did. this was really dissapointing tbh and it seems like an easy fix


----------



## ChrisB17

My mobo is still going good like day one









Just got a question though, Recently I installed win 8 and updated the bios before install. Now I get code 04 and 03 instead of A0. PC works Flawlessly and the manual doesn't have such codes.


----------



## stasio

UD4H is coming..........
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4413&dl=1#ov


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> UD4H is coming..........
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4413&dl=1#ov


From the looks & features, it looks like *UP4TH without Thunderbolt* , probably goes in the $164.99 Price point range between UD5H and UD3H.

The Strange thing is the its Heatsink is the UD5 style(look the same as UP4/5TH) but on the product page it says Ultradurable *4* instead of 5.


----------



## DeXel

UD4H Memory record.

UD4H seems to be an UP4 TH with 8 phase PWM, but older (non IR3550) UD4 series mosfets and no thunderbolt and mSATA.

Now Gigabyte pretty much covered all possible Z77 price segments







.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doom2k*
> 
> But in relation to graphics card fitment, will there be sufficient clearance without it touching the card and causing heat issues?
> Thanks.


I'm running 2x7950's with water blocks and no problems. But I don't know squat about Nvidia cards tbh, never owned one.
I haven't seen any Gigabyte boards that have problems with fitting gpu's, how could they sell them?

I also have a UP4 TH board, and the heatsink interferes with one of my radiator push fans installed in a Switch 810. Other than that I've never had any fitment issues from a Gigabyte board.


----------



## tvm777

Hi, i own a Z77X-UD5H
i have windows 8, and everything works fine
BUT!

in Gigabyte official says:
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#sp
Quote:


> Audio
> Realtek ALC898 codec
> *Support for X-Fi Xtreme Fidelity® and EAX® Advanced HD™ 5.0 technologies*
> High Definition Audio
> 2/4/5.1/7.1-channel
> Support for S/PDIF Out


And drivers for windows 8 64 bit says.
Quote:


> Audio Version Size Date Download Here
> Creative SB X-Fi MB2 driver 1.0.0.3 71.70 MB 2012/10/05 Asia China America Europe Europe(Russia) : FTP / Http


But when i installed , creative software and driver says that there isnt any compatible hardware

how can that be? how can i enable creative x-fi for my mobo? or eax?


----------



## Doom2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm running 2x7950's with water blocks and no problems. But I don't know squat about Nvidia cards tbh, never owned one.
> I haven't seen any Gigabyte boards that have problems with fitting gpu's, how could they sell them?
> I also have a UP4 TH board, and the heatsink interferes with one of my radiator push fans installed in a Switch 810. Other than that I've never had any fitment issues from a Gigabyte board.


Thanks for the reassurance, I just wanted to make sure since I've found a few reviews online that mentioned the issue, and even in pictures/newegg vids it does seem that the chipset heatsink is quite tall and would possibly interfere with gpu installation in the first pcie slot.

Here's a post from tom's hardware that referred to the issue, as soon as I find the one on newegg/amazon ill post an update.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/351944-31-gigabyte-z77x-ud5h-twin-frozr-cards-mount-slot

Although the card it mentions isn't the one I plan on using it just seems a bit worrying.

Thanks.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doom2k*
> 
> Thanks for the reassurance, I just wanted to make sure since I've found a few reviews online that mentioned the issue, and even in pictures/newegg vids it does seem that the chipset heatsink is quite tall and would possibly interfere with gpu installation in the first pcie slot.
> Here's a post from tom's hardware that referred to the issue, as soon as I find the one on newegg/amazon ill post an update.
> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/351944-31-gigabyte-z77x-ud5h-twin-frozr-cards-mount-slot
> Although the card it mentions isn't the one I plan on using it just seems a bit worrying.
> Thanks.


Well the clearance is indeed pretty close, but I've never given it a second thought before. If you are thinking the UD5H wifi is going to be different, the boards look identical to me, from pics anyway.
Hope it all works out for you.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Well the clearance is indeed pretty close, but I've never given it a second thought before. If you are thinking the UD5H wifi is going to be different, the boards look identical to me, from pics anyway.
> Hope it all works out for you.


Pretty sure they are the same, the difference being the bundled items.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> My mobo is still going good like day one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got a question though, Recently I installed win 8 and updated the bios before install. Now I get code 04 and 03 instead of A0. PC works Flawlessly and the manual doesn't have such codes.


----------



## dent

Hey all. Finished putting together a i3750k / GA-Z77X-UD3H system and was having some issues with power cutting out and screen flickering. I started my own thread because i'm not certain if its a board/cpu/psu issue but i thought i would cross link here for completeness. I figure if something helpful comes of it, someone searching this thread might find it useful.

Linky


----------



## kmac20

So I went with a Gigabyte z77x-ud3h recently. Always liked Gigabyte, my last gigabyte I just retired lasted 5 years, no problems. It still probably can keep going actually. Anyway though, my questions:

Firstly, i'm noticing that the voltage I set differs quite a bit from the voltage listed in the bios. Usually by like .025V. Is this a normal thing? Just a quirk of my board? Its not a big deal, its just strange. like I have to set the voltage a bit higher than what it actually ends up running at, by a bit as a result. Anything I should be worried about? I know the voltage fluctuates on any board, even @ manual, just the nature of PC parts. But i'm wondering if its normal for the set voltage and reported voltages (once again, both in BIOS and CPUZ ) _should_ have such a disparity.

Secondly: what in gods name is LLC? I've been looking around and trying to find an explanation, because it has to do with voltage, and I figured maybe this might have something to do with set voltages and reporting voltages being different.

Love Gigabyte, I've been recommending this board and any other GA to people for years. Just solid boards all around. I want to keep it, but I want to make sure its running fine!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmac20*
> 
> So I went with a Gigabyte z77x-ud3h recently. Always liked Gigabyte, my last gigabyte I just retired lasted 5 years, no problems. It still probably can keep going actually. Anyway though, my questions:
> Firstly, i'm noticing that the voltage I set differs quite a bit from the voltage listed in the bios. Usually by like .025V. Is this a normal thing? Just a quirk of my board? Its not a big deal, its just strange. like I have to set the voltage a bit higher than what it actually ends up running at, by a bit as a result. Anything I should be worried about? I know the voltage fluctuates on any board, even @ manual, just the nature of PC parts. But i'm wondering if its normal for the set voltage and reported voltages (once again, both in BIOS and CPUZ ) _should_ have such a disparity.
> Secondly: what in gods name is LLC? I've been looking around and trying to find an explanation, because it has to do with voltage, and I figured maybe this might have something to do with set voltages and reporting voltages being different.
> Love Gigabyte, I've been recommending this board and any other GA to people for years. Just solid boards all around. I want to keep it, but I want to make sure its running fine!
> Thanks in advance!


Quite simple really...LLC will solve that voltage discrepancy you're seeing.
Load line calibration (what llc stands for) helps reduce the amount of voltage drop under load (which is normal, and helps protect your chip) for optimizing stability when overclocking. Try setting a turbo llc value in bios and go from there...


----------



## kmac20

I will definitely give it a try man. And just so I'm clear, because I'm still not 100%...

LLC will decrease the amount that my voltage decreases by? In other words, it will cause the reduction to become smaller, therefore being in fact less of a reduction?

Just wanna make sure I get it with these double negatives!


----------



## battlecryawesome

Usually you can turn off llc now on the new board s theres setting like turbo and extreme , so when you set it to extreme it should be the same in your os as it is in your bis.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, add me to the group. Before I had a UD3H for my TC Folding rig, now, as of today, I am the proud owner of a UP7 for my new Gaming/Folding rig. Sadly, I don't have all the parts yet to fire up the UP7, but hopefully Monday or so, I will start updating the BIOS and seeing how the new 3770K runs on it.


----------



## battlecryawesome

Awesome.. I love mine.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battlecryawesome*
> 
> Usually you can turn off llc now on the new board s theres setting like turbo and extreme , so when you set it to extreme it should be the same in your os as it is in your bis.


Actually extreme may cause some boards to overshoot vcore, not sure on these gb boards...They are very precise with that.


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, add me to the group. Before I had a UD3H for my TC Folding rig, now, as of today, I am the proud owner of a UP7 for my new Gaming/Folding rig. Sadly, I don't have all the parts yet to fire up the UP7, but hopefully Monday or so, I will start updating the BIOS and seeing how the new 3770K runs on it.


The UP7 is a boss, your going to love it.


----------



## gizmo83

beautiful motherboard


----------



## NoGuru

Just wait till you fire it up, UP7 is amazing!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Why oh why did Newegg tempt me like this?

My UP7 and Samsung 840 Pro arrived, and they were ordered at the same time as my 16GB of G.SKILL memory and Windows 7 ... which have yet to arrive.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, add me to the group. Before I had a UD3H for my TC Folding rig, now, as of today, I am the proud owner of a UP7 for my new Gaming/Folding rig. Sadly, I don't have all the parts yet to fire up the UP7, but hopefully Monday or so, I will start updating the BIOS and seeing how the new 3770K runs on it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've been tempted to upgrade my P67A-UD7 to a UP7 for a while now. I'd love to turn my main rig into an orange/black themed build. I've also been spoiled by the UEFI on my UD5H.

Has there been any word on waterblocks for the UP7?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Has there been any word on waterblocks for the UP7?


Not that I have seen yet.


----------



## nopopup

The Audio ports HDA pin assignments of motherboard Gigabyte z77x Ud3h and Antec 300 case does not match according to their manuals. for example, pin#10 of the antec 300 case's audio port is Line2_JD and pin# 10 of the gigabyte z77x ud3h motherboard's audio plugin is GND.
However, they can match physically. For instance, the position of the pins and the 1 empty space match.
If these pin assignments don't match, can i just not plug them? it's just audio right? I could just use speakers?


----------



## NcNutty

Thanks for the explanation of LLC!









It definitely solved the mystery of why I had the CPU Vcore jacked up to 1.38 but only got 1.34. Ha! Now CPUID is actually showing what I set in the BIOS. Oh the joys of my first foray into overclocking.









On a side note...I also noticed that the BIOS has LLC for GFX. I'm guessing that it will help in the same way when OCing a graphics card(?).


----------



## ivanlabrie

That's for the cpu's igpu, in case you decide to overclock it. (No one but a bencher would, normally)


----------



## ivanlabrie

That's for the cpu's igpu, in case you decide to overclock it. (No one but a bencher would, normally)


----------



## JMatzelle3

I am looking at getting a Z77 Gigabyte board i hear the ud3 is a good board but i got one problem. Is there any problem with not having the top mosfets cooled? I am kinda worried that something bad will happen if they dont have a heatsink on them


----------



## kmac20

I dunno what a MOSFET is (metal oxide something?) but I will tell you i've used Gigabyte boards in one form or another for over 5 years now, and never have had to add secondary coolers to any part of it. Even on my C2D where I oc'd via FSB, the stock coolers were more than adequate.

To boot, I currently HAVE the Z77X-UD3H, the board youre thinking of getting. And I love it. I am so happy i went with it over teh Asrock Extreme 4. The build quality of GA boards just feels so much....better. It feels like a sturdier mobo if that makes sense. Even compared to my last gigabyte. Just feels built better, and not like most mobos that feel as if you COULD snap em. Its got a bit of weight to it, which I love.


----------



## JMatzelle3

Thanks for your hel +1 rep


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nopopup*
> 
> The Audio ports HDA pin assignments of motherboard Gigabyte z77x Ud3h and Antec 300 case does not match according to their manuals. for example, pin#10 of the antec 300 case's audio port is Line2_JD and pin# 10 of the gigabyte z77x ud3h motherboard's audio plugin is GND.
> However, they can match physically. For instance, the position of the pins and the 1 empty space match.
> If these pin assignments don't match, can i just not plug them? it's just audio right? I could just use speakers?


Yeah, its just for the front audio ports on your case so no biggie. Just don't plug them in or if they don't match then work it out yourself as it is pretty straight forward. The only one I think is really needed is the speaker connection so that you get the system beeps to help you troubleshoot in times of crisis but even that is not a necessity.


----------



## tvm777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvm777*
> 
> Hi, i own a Z77X-UD5H
> i have windows 8, and everything works fine
> BUT!
> in Gigabyte official says:
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4139#sp
> And drivers for windows 8 64 bit says.
> But when i installed , creative software and driver says that there isnt any compatible hardware
> how can that be? how can i enable creative x-fi for my mobo? or eax?


anyone can help me?


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvm777*
> 
> anyone can help me?


Its the because the UD5H uses Realtek. I believe the Creative driver is for the Sniper series.


----------



## DeXel

Creative software works fine for me under Windows 8. I don't remember if it showed any "not compatible" warnings during install, but it works fine after installation.


----------



## Sin0822

no the UD5H has licensed creative software, as does the Z77X-UP5 and Z77X-UP7. The G1 series uses an actual creative hardware package, but it uses a different driver.

XF-I should install on windows 8, but only the driver fromt he site, make sure you use the drop down menu and fin the windows 8 driver. Also first you need to install the realtek audio driver.


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> no the UD5H has licensed creative software, as does the Z77X-UP5 and Z77X-UP7. The G1 series uses an actual creative hardware package, but it uses a different driver.
> XF-I should install on windows 8, but only the driver fromt he site, make sure you use the drop down menu and fin the windows 8 driver. *Also first you need to install the realtek audio driver.*


Thanks for clearing that up.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> My mobo is still going good like day one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got a question though, Recently I installed win 8 and updated the bios before install. Now I get code 04 and 03 instead of A0. PC works Flawlessly and the manual doesn't have such codes.


Are you using sleep? _After waking from sleep_ my UD5H always shows 03.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Here is an odd question for the UP7 owners.

On the motherboard, there are 2 2x4 ATX 12V connectors instead of the typical 1 2x4 ATX 12V connector.

Do I need to populate both of them from my PSU or just one?

My SeaSonic 1000W Platinum I PSU has both a 4P/8P EPS12V/ATX12V cable and an EPS12V 8P cable, so I could plug both in, but I'm just not 100% sure I should. Given this is the first time I've encountered this, I want to make sure before I risk frying over a grand worth of CPU/Mobo/PSU/Memory.


----------



## jayhay

It's for extreme overclocks. I'd probably use one for light to mid overclocks. Maybe the both for crazy/insano oc's. One must be used, but using the pair is optional. Hope this helps. It just a feature, not a must do.


----------



## HobieCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Here is an odd question for the UP7 owners.
> On the motherboard, there are 2 2x4 ATX 12V connectors instead of the typical 1 2x4 ATX 12V connector.
> Do I need to populate both of them from my PSU or just one?
> My SeaSonic 1000W Platinum I PSU has both a 4P/8P EPS12V/ATX12V cable and an EPS12V 8P cable, so I could plug both in, but I'm just not 100% sure I should. Given this is the first time I've encountered this, I want to make sure before I risk frying over a grand worth of CPU/Mobo/PSU/Memory.


It doesn't really matter, you can plug in both, or just one and it really won't make a difference for a day-to-day rig. I've got both plugged in right now, but one would more than suffice. The only time I really need both is when I'm using LN2.


----------



## tvm777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephimports*
> 
> Its the because the UD5H uses Realtek. I believe the Creative driver is for the Sniper series.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Creative software works fine for me under Windows 8. I don't remember if it showed any "not compatible" warnings during install, but it works fine after installation.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> no the UD5H has licensed creative software, as does the Z77X-UP5 and Z77X-UP7. The G1 series uses an actual creative hardware package, but it uses a different driver.
> XF-I should install on windows 8, but only the driver fromt he site, make sure you use the drop down menu and fin the windows 8 driver. Also first you need to install the realtek audio driver.


i just install it yesterday, and work fine








idk what did wrong before

im going to buy the
G1. assassin 2

its a goad board for windows 8?
since i saw gigabyte website theres still few drivers for this mobo (windows 8 64 bit)
anyone who actually has it can tell me how this mobo truly works in 24/7 gaming rig?
- Between my z77x-ud5 and G1. assassin 2, wich its "better" , sounds like dumb question, different sockets, right, but as board the G1. assassin 2, its solid rock like the z77x-ud5h?
i mean, my actual board z77x-ud5h its ultra durable 4, and the G1. assassin 2 its only ultra durable 2?
wich one its better?
(despite the fact that the G1. assassin 2 has truly creative hardware onboard)


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HobieCat*
> 
> It doesn't really matter, you can plug in both, or just one and it really won't make a difference for a day-to-day rig. I've got both plugged in right now, but one would more than suffice. The only time I really need both is when I'm using LN2.


Ok, I didn't know if it would not boot with only one, etc.

What about for non LN2 overclocking? Say 5GHz on a 3770K? Think that would need the second one?

There are just so few people with this board, hard to find the answers.


----------



## gizmo83

hi guys. i have 2 questions very important. the choice of ram can implicate a better overclock with lower cpu voltage? Can you tell me a perfect model of ram for my ud5h + 3770k?


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, I didn't know if it would not boot with only one, etc.
> What about for non LN2 overclocking? Say 5GHz on a 3770K? Think that would need the second one?
> There are just so few people with this board, hard to find the answers.


One would be enough.

I currently have the bottom one populated.


----------



## Frozenkuma

Hey everyone, I just wanna ask a question. I'm getting a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H and a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler but I've heard that the CPU cooler blocks some of the ram ports. Is this true?


----------



## DeXel

If that's the case, just use some low profile dimms.


----------



## stewie7

Hey guys,

Quick question guys. I have the UD3H motherboard. When I try to populate all the ram slots, it results into a boot loop. Tried different tests on it and found out that ram slots 2 and 4 does not work. Is it maybe because of a bent pin in the cpu socket? Actually, its two bent pins.

Yeah, it sucks I bent the pins on the cpu socket.









Cheers!


----------



## DeXel

Yea, it can be because of that. Try to fix them with tweezers or needle.


----------



## ChrisB17

Hey guys I ran into a "snag" just now. When I plug a USB cord that connects to my LCD monitor so I can use the USB slots on the side the PC wont boot and code 64 comes up. But if I unplug the USB cable it boots fine. Any suggestions?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Hey guys I ran into a "snag" just now. When I plug a USB cord that connects to my LCD monitor so I can use the USB slots on the side the PC wont boot and code 64 comes up. But if I unplug the USB cable it boots fine. Any suggestions?


First I'd try another USB port on the motherboard. It could be a port on the motherboard.

Next I'd try a different USB port totally (not just the ones one the back of the motherboard) using one of the USB headers to a USB port, say on a back slot.

Next I'd try another USB cable (from the USB header adapter to the monitor).


----------



## ChrisB17

Tried the USB on another port still doesnt work. (the two ports that i try both work on different things)

Tried the front that seems to work somewhat

Replaced the cable, Still does it.


----------



## covar

There's new USB3 drivers out from Intel only a week or so ago. maybe try updating?


----------



## stasio

New BIOS is out.


----------



## gizmo83

beta f15k for ud5h. anyone tried this?


----------



## gizmo83

I just tried the bios f15k on ud5h. Exceptional to me. I lowered the vcore of 0.01V remaining stable. Do not get stuck in the case of oc wrong. New logo at startup.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stewie7*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Quick question guys. I have the UD3H motherboard. When I try to populate all the ram slots, it results into a boot loop. Tried different tests on it and found out that ram slots 2 and 4 does not work. Is it maybe because of a bent pin in the cpu socket? Actually, its two bent pins.
> Yeah, it sucks I bent the pins on the cpu socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


I killed my z77x-ud5h like that...Don't try booting with bent pins more than once!!!
My socket had molten pads in the back and couldn't be repaired by the RMA guys so be careful with that.


----------



## DeXel

F15K is a must update for all Windows 8 users. It adds EFI boot (fast boot), secure boot, and etc.

Also I must say that amplifier on UD5H does a decent job driving my DT 880 600 ohm (finally bought them







). Nothing spectacular though, but definitely can last until a get a proper amp.


----------



## tfouto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> F15K is a must update for all Windows 8 users. It adds EFI boot (fast boot), secure boot, and etc.
> Also I must say that amplifier on UD5H does a decent job driving my DT 880 600 ohm (finally bought them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Nothing spectacular though, but definitely can last until a get a proper amp.


What's the difference between the EFI (fast boot) and normal? Only on fast shutdown or also on full shutdown? Is the difference on POST?


----------



## jprovido

updated to the f19e on my z77x-ud3h. mouse problem came back


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> I just tried the bios f15k on ud5h. Exceptional to me. I lowered the vcore of 0.01V remaining stable. Do not get stuck in the case of oc wrong. New logo at startup.


Yeah that new logo was a surprise.


----------



## gizmo83

I really like the new logo. It's simple and more pleasant because it's dark.


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> I really like the new logo. It's simple and more pleasant because it's dark.


I also really liked the new logo, but after setting VGA support to auto, it just goes straight to the Windows 8 login screen. (It seems slightly faster, but I haven't timed it.)

I don't know what the difference is between the OS Type settings for "Windows 8" and "Windows 8 WHQL". Both seem to work just fine on my system. (I know what WHQL means, I just don't see what the practical difference is in the BIOS setting here.)

I was also confused by the PS2 BIOS setting given that there is no PS2 port. I must be missing something.

I would be interested in any insights on those.

The only real issues I have seen since the release of the official Windows 8 OS are:

1. USB 3.0 working fine on the INTEL header, but problems recognizing some USB 3.0 devices on the headers with VIA hubs. (Specifically a recently RMA'd Corsair Flash Voyager. I ordered a different USB 3.0 flash drive -Lexar JumpDrive Triton 32 GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive- to see if it makes a difference.)

2. Occasional spontaneous reboots (event Kernel-Power ID:41, but I haven't had one in 4 days now). I suspect it might be a problem with Cisco Anyconnect VPN whch is the only software generating lots of errors on my system (My institution is using an older version of Anyconnect, so that might be the problem). However, given that this was happening a few times each day and is now either very rare or completely gone, it might have been an OS bug that has been fixed. (fingers crossed - this never happened under Win8 CP or RP.)


----------



## gizmo83

if I choose windows 8 whql and restart, the bios screen is bigger. With Windows 8 and other os the screen returns to normal. I did not understand the differences in performance\compatibility.


----------



## gizmo83

edit: in 3dmark11 +200 points. From 14488 to 14671.


----------



## DeXel

F15K is obviously not finished. Everytime I disable CMS it turns on again on next boot. UD5H has no PS/2 port, but option is there. However, it works OK otherwise.

Fast boot just skips post and goes straight to booting Windows 8 (it should be installed as UEFI installation), so boot times should be faster (no speaker beep). FYI if your GPU doesn't have EFI ready bios, it will increase boot times (most GPUs don't).

And I also like new dark logo.


----------



## tfouto

Is it possible to change Windows 8 Bios to UEFI instalation?


----------



## DeXel

Nah, full reinstall if you didn't already install in that mode .


----------



## tfouto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Nah, full reinstall if you didn't already install in that mode .


well i guess i have already on EFI Mode. My c:\ is GPT so i guess it's UEFI Mode...


----------



## DeXel

Well, if I am not mistaken if you install from a disk, UEFI instillation is chosen automatically. You have to make some modifications for a flash drive installation though.

That's how Windows 8 partition should look like if it's GPT.


----------



## tfouto

Yes, that's how it looks. I have already inserted the new bios... Faster boot now. I have to check the boot time.

I would like to see if this bios solves the usb 3.0 speeds on Windows 8, but i guess not. It just the drivers. I made the usb 3.0 hack.


----------



## tfouto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> FYI if your GPU doesn't have EFI ready bios, it will increase boot times (most GPUs don't).
> 
> How can we know if GPU is EFI ready?


----------



## DeXel

It's called UEFI GOP

Here is some read.
Also this

No solid info for a moment, so I guess there are very few cards with UEFI GOP right now (if any).


----------



## ChrisB17

Updated bios and now my mouse doesn't work after the pc wakes up from sleep. Uhg


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Updated bios and now my mouse doesn't work after the pc wakes up from sleep. Uhg


mine works but doesn't move correctly. how can I fix this?


----------



## roudabout6

hello OCN I need some help. I just got my ud3h and when I am gaming my computer will shut off randomly. To turn it back on I have to unplug a usb or unplug my ac power cable. After it starts back up my keyboard doesnt work until i unplug it and plug it back in, if I do that sometimes it will shutoff again. Then the process restarts all over again. I am thinking that i have a short in my motherboard because I ran 3dmark 11 2 times once on stock and once overclocked and it ran all the way through no problems. I just switched over to intel and so far I have hated it. I cant play a game for more then 10 mins. Please help me. If my mobo is bad i can go to microcenter tomorrow and get a replacement. I just dont have the money to buy another psu.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> mine works but doesn't move correctly. how can I fix this?


Mine is also screwed up after the bios. In the bios it moves up down etcc when doing nothing, Then in windows it sometimes doesn't show up and I have to un plug and plug it back in. All after this bios.


----------



## DeXel

Well this is beta guys, but works perfect for me.


----------



## ChrisB17

Hmm im going to go play around in bios and see if something might be disabled or something.


----------



## roudabout6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roudabout6*
> 
> hello OCN I need some help. I just got my ud3h and when I am gaming my computer will shut off randomly. To turn it back on I have to unplug a usb or unplug my ac power cable. After it starts back up my keyboard doesnt work until i unplug it and plug it back in, if I do that sometimes it will shutoff again. Then the process restarts all over again. I am thinking that i have a short in my motherboard because I ran 3dmark 11 2 times once on stock and once overclocked and it ran all the way through no problems. I just switched over to intel and so far I have hated it. I cant play a game for more then 10 mins. Please help me. If my mobo is bad i can go to microcenter tomorrow and get a replacement. I just dont have the money to buy another psu.


Anyone? I really need help going to microcenter tomorrow and cant go for a while after that


----------



## DeXel

If you think you have a short, try to run it outside of the case. Make a temporary test bench by using motherboard's box. If doesn't help just replace the motherboard in microcenter since it won't hurt. How old is that PSU (Kingwin in your sig, right?).


----------



## roudabout6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> If you think you have a short, try to run it outside of the case. Make a temporary test bench by using motherboard's box. If doesn't help just replace the motherboard in microcenter since it won't hurt. How old is that PSU (Kingwin in your sig, right?).


The psu is only about 8-12 months old and it is a lazer gold so it is a really nice psu. Plus it was powering my amd system which pulls more watts then my intel. Thanks for the quick response also. Im freaking out right now so anything helps


----------



## jprovido

bios gurus got a question. is there a way for me to disable the gigabyte raid0 utility boot up/splash screen? for this reason alone I'm thinking of "un-raiding" my hard drivers


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roudabout6*
> 
> The psu is only about 8-12 months old and it is a lazer gold so it is a really nice psu. Plus it was powering my amd system which pulls more watts then my intel. Thanks for the quick response also. Im freaking out right now so anything helps


this thing happened to my previous rig. there's just a short somewhere and god knows where. what I did was a trick that old-school pc builders have been doing for years. put masking tape on each of the stand offs. two small strips stacked above each other then let the screw punch a hole in the masking tape when you're screwing the motherboard in. voila your problem will be fixed and 100% short free


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BobLeProf*
> 
> The only real issues I have seen since the release of the official Windows 8 OS are:
> 1. USB 3.0 working fine on the INTEL header, but problems recognizing some USB 3.0 devices on the headers with VIA hubs. (Specifically a recently RMA'd Corsair Flash Voyager. I ordered a different USB 3.0 flash drive -Lexar JumpDrive Triton 32 GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive- to see if it makes a difference.)


I was able to confirm that the issues I was seeing in USB 3.0 flash drives were indeed caused by my Corsair Flash Voyager GT 32GB 3.0 drive. My new Lexar JumpDrive Triton 32 GB USB 3.0 works on all of the UD5H's USB 3.0 ports and is copying large files from my SSD at 164 MB/s read & 152 MB/s write (slightly better than specs). The Corsair was only working on the Intel ports and copying the same files at 52 MB/s write & 182 MB/s read (slightly worse than advertised).

The Lexar is more expensive, but I'll be happy to avoid the USB Device Not Recognized message!


----------



## ChrisB17

How do I get the ud5h to instal windows using uefi in bios I have everything set but my boot devices says p1 and p5.


----------



## ChrisB17

Apologize for the double post. But see here, There is nothing to select UEFI. I am so confused right now.


----------



## DeXel

Are you installing from a disk? Press F12 on boot, and select UEFI Asus DRW-24B1LT.

If there is no such option (just Asus DRW-24B1LT), then to create partition anyway. If it creates 3 partitions total, it's UEFI install.

I did not do a disk install, so I am not sure if a dvd drive doubles as legacy and UEFI install the way a flash drive installation does.


----------



## ChrisB17

F12 still shows no uefi options.


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> bios gurus got a question. is there a way for me to disable the gigabyte raid0 utility boot up/splash screen? for this reason alone I'm thinking of "un-raiding" my hard drivers


up for my question


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> up for my question


If you have RAID enabled, you will have the RAID screen at start up.


----------



## ChrisB17

Uhg I still can't get windows 8 installed using uefi. This is über Anoying.


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*
> 
> If you have RAID enabled, you will have the RAID screen at start up.


there's no way to disable it? with my asus board it was easy to disable it


----------



## DeXel

Try a flash drive installation. Follow Sean's guide (his Windows 8 tutorial doesn't seem to be finished, but creating a bootable flash drive with Windows 7 definitely works) to create bootable FAT32 drive.

Follow steps under:
Quote:


> How to make a bootable Windows 7 USB for the UEFI motherboard and GPT format install:


Then reboot, F12, select UEFI: name of your flash drive. Should work.

Also if you updated to F15K, or F15M make sure to disable secure boot.


----------



## jprovido

wrong post. deleted


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Try a flash drive installation. Follow Sean's guide (his Windows 8 tutorial doesn't seem to be finished, but creating a bootable flash drive with Windows 7 definitely works) to create bootable FAT32 drive.
> Follow steps under:
> Then reboot, F12, select UEFI: name of your flash drive. Should work.
> Also if you updated to F15K, or F15M make sure to disable secure boot.


Ok Ill see. I have been working on this all day following his guide.







I dont understand lol


----------



## twitchyzero

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking of finally attempting overclocking my CPU/RAM after 5 months with this new build

My UD5H is on F4...will I get better OC results with a new BIOS?

Any bug/issues with the F14? Also...what's the least risky/stable way of upgrading?


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> I'm thinking of finally attempting overclocking my CPU/RAM after 5 months with this new build
> My UD5H is on F4...will I get better OC results with a new BIOS?
> Any bug/issues with the F14? Also...what's the least risky/stable way of upgrading?


I'm running the 3570k oc to 4.5 (for now) for like 2 months now on the f14, never had any issues.


----------



## chris-br

Double post


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> there's no way to disable it? with my asus board it was easy to disable it


No way that I ever found.
----
I gave up on the beta F15k. I had major boot problems after a bit so backed up to F15d and it's working fine. Perhaps F15k is more optimized for Win 8? IDK but it was problematic for me.


----------



## ChrisB17

F15m still has mouse issues


----------



## gizmo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> F15m still has mouse issues


warning from tweaktown about f15m

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-685.html#post443969


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> F15m still has mouse issues


I have been finding that with Fast Boot on Ultra Fast in the F15m bios, I have been getting occasional freeze-ups of my usb devices (mouse & keyboard). Unplugging and plugging back in seems to reset them. I am seeing a LEqdUsb Event ID 12293 that seems to correspond to the USB freeze-ups, though I should do a better job noting the exact times when I compare.

I was also a bit confused the first time I tried to enter the bios after setting Ultra Fast. No USB devices are working until you get the the OS. Turning off the AC Power at the PS for a second made it boot up in normal mode on the next boot so I could get into the bios.

However, I am finding that my boot times are actually faster on Fast Boot than on Ultra Fast Boot. Go figure. I am at less than 20 sec. to my Win8 login screen. (VGA Support-Auto; USB Support-Full; PS2-Disable; Network stack-disable; Next Boot after AC-Normal).


----------



## ChrisB17

F15m is way to buggy. I am switching back.


----------



## coolhandluke41

F14 is a keeper for sure


----------



## JMatzelle3

Just purchased the i5 3570K and z77-UD5 and i must say this is the nicest board that i have ever owned.


----------



## ChrisB17

F14 bios still can't instal windows 8 via uefi.


----------



## roudabout6

Can anyone help me? I just replace my ud3h because of a short and now when I start up my computer for the first time everyday I have to unplug my 24 pin from the mobo then plug it back it then it turns on. But after the first turn it runs fine. Any help will be much appreciated


----------



## mandrix

F15m seems to work pretty good for me as long as I don't use the fast boot. Still boots pretty darn fast though, and I was able to drop my DVID a little. I'm running Win 7 Pro 64.


----------



## MME1122

Are there any mosfet/vrm waterblocks for the UD3H? Or better yet a full cover block?


----------



## gkatsanos

Hi guys, new UD5H owner here. Updated to F14 as soon as I booted the system, but I used @BIOS for that. Any case I broke something? (BIOS reports F14 tho, nothing seems to be going very wrong..)

Could you confirm the following are OK to do?
-> switched my SSD from the Marvel controller to the intel one and disabled the Marvel controller (couldn't shut down computer, and people say there's no TRIM in the Marvel controller)

-> I have mouse freezes ... For a while I thought its fault of the Logitech Unifying thing but it seems more folks are having same prob with the same board... any solutions,tips?

In general : Would you say for a non overlocker (WS) it's not quite a stable motherboard? I'm still on my return-free period with Amazon, so I could exchange it with an Intel one or an Asus one...

Any idea if F15 will fix more stuff?

Thanks a million !


----------



## chris-br

don't use the marvel controller for the ssd, use the intel. i i would reinstall the windows and see if that helps... .I do have the F14 and its flawless for me.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gkatsanos*
> 
> Hi guys, new UD5H owner here. Updated to F14 as soon as I booted the system, but I used @BIOS for that. Any case I broke something? (BIOS reports F14 tho, nothing seems to be going very wrong..)
> Could you confirm the following are OK to do?
> -> switched my SSD from the Marvel controller to the intel one and disabled the Marvel controller (couldn't shut down computer, and people say there's no TRIM in the Marvel controller)
> -> I have mouse freezes ... For a while I thought its fault of the Logitech Unifying thing but it seems more folks are having same prob with the same board... any solutions,tips?
> In general : Would you say for a non overlocker (WS) it's not quite a stable motherboard? I'm still on my return-free period with Amazon, so I could exchange it with an Intel one or an Asus one...
> Any idea if F15 will fix more stuff?
> Thanks a million !


Don't use the marvell controller for your system SSD, use the intel. Also, i would reinstall windows since you changed controlers. F14 run flawless for me.
EDIT: no need to disable the marvell controller... but a little more info on your system specs would help.


----------



## gkatsanos

Thanks !









Just added my complete specs on signature.
Some questions:

- Could it be that Windows didn't install on AHCI ? It's enabled on my bios but... could it be that windows ignored it?
- I want to also look on making the boot (post) a bit quicker... I haven't enabled UEFI I think and also there's a "Intel rapid start" setting I have it to disabled..

Are there any tips on how to optimize the BIOS settings a little bit?

edit: Are you sure a Windows re-install is needed? system boots normally.. although maybe a bit slower than before... hmm


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gkatsanos*
> 
> Thanks !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just added my complete specs on signature.
> Some questions:
> - Could it be that Windows didn't install on AHCI ? It's enabled on my bios but... could it be that windows ignored it?
> - I want to also look on making the boot (post) a bit quicker... I haven't enabled UEFI I think and also there's a "Intel rapid start" setting I have it to disabled..
> Are there any tips on how to optimize the BIOS settings a little bit?
> edit: Are you sure a Windows re-install is needed? system boots normally.. although maybe a bit slower than before... hmm


1-Not likely
2-You don't need IRST unless you are using an msata SSD for caching
3-what exactly are you trying to optimize?
4-Sometimes a Windows reinstall fixes problems, sometimes not, it is not going to change how the bios operates

You don't need UEFI unless you want your OS drive set up that way. IMO is a big hassle since some backup programs don't recognize the partitions.
These boards normally boot pretty fast. If your isn't getting into Windows fast enough it may be because of other programs loading with Windows.
F14 is a pretty stable bios. If you are still having problems with your mouse you might try contacting Gigabyte and let them know and maybe they can find a fix for you.


----------



## gizmo83

same issue with mouse freeze. i remains after return on f14 bios


----------



## gizmo83

edit: to solve mouse usb freeze. power off the ac for 20 seconds. After apply a clear cmos with the onboard button. Then the mouse return fine.


----------



## ChrisB17

Edit nvm, Figured it out after 3 days


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blast*
> 
> Yeah, but slot 4 will rresult in the same error slot 2 has.


This problem just turned up for me, too. Really frustrating. All Gigabyte could say was to up the voltage beyond the SPD values in my Corsair DIMMs from 1.5v to 1.65v, but still, no dice. I'd be curious to know whether this is a Northbridge failure or something less complex, like the PCB traces being more vulnerable around those two slots closest to the CPU. Incidentally, the exact same configuration was working just great for me until switching cases, and suddenly this problem (same as yours) occurred, permanently.

Of curiosity, this guy experienced the same thing (and clearly got stuck in a loop):

http://gigabytesucks.info/

I've given up and sent in for an advance replacement. If the problem recurs with the replacement, I'll be utterly confounded. How did the replacement work out for you, Blast?


----------



## Sin0822

Maybe he should use QVL sticks, if it didn't fix it, maybe GTS should replace the guys board.


----------



## DownshiftArtist

Ok so I'm building a new system soon and I've always had Gigabyte boards in the past so I'm currently looking at a GA-Z77X-UD3H. My question though is on the memory compatibility. It says on its spec sheet that I can use 1066/1333/1600 or 2666....but what about everything in between 1600 and 2666? If I install 1866 will it not work or something or limit the clock to 1600? I've just never seen a board just skip a whole segment of memory speeds before.


----------



## DownshiftArtist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DownshiftArtist*
> 
> Ok so I'm building a new system soon and I've always had Gigabyte boards in the past so I'm currently looking at a GA-Z77X-UD3H. My question though is on the memory compatibility. It says on its spec sheet that I can use 1066/1333/1600 or 2666....but what about everything in between 1600 and 2666? If I install 1866 will it not work or something or limit the clock to 1600? I've just never seen a board just skip a whole segment of memory speeds before.


Never mind I just saw the "Memory Support List" on Gigabytes website and answered my own question....


----------



## Sin0822

yea also BTW that guy put both his two sticks in the furthest slots!, that is a no no. You are only on 1 channel that way, thus in single channel not dual. in that case he needs to try the slot furthest and then skip one and do the second closest, that is the correct way to do it.


----------



## Sin0822

IMO if you have the same problem as him you should RMA as one of the channels is not working. That has happened from water around the DIMMs, but otherwise it could be considered a an RMA issue.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea also BTW that guy put both his two sticks in the furthest slots!, that is a no no. You are only on 1 channel that way, thus in single channel not dual. in that case he needs to try the slot furthest and then skip one and do the second closest, that is the correct way to do it.


Yeah, I was trying to figure out what he was doing.








I understand the frustration, though.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea also BTW that guy put both his two sticks in the furthest slots!, that is a no no. You are only on 1 channel that way, thus in single channel not dual. in that case he needs to try the slot furthest and then skip one and do the second closest, that is the correct way to do it.


FYI, you misinterpreted the diagnosis (understandably as it was a while ago), because the known and frequent failure -- as I pointed out happening to me too -- is that the two slots closest to the CPU fail in ANY combination with the other two. So even when you properly put DIMMs in slots 1 and 2, which are the first and third slots from the ATX power connector comprising channel 1, there is the same error code 51. Same goes for channel 2, the second and fourth slots. The ONLY way to get past error code 51 in this case (again, a frequent occurrence for owners of this motherboard, even if you personally never had it) is either a single DIMM in slot 1, or or two DIMMs in slots 1 and 3 which are the two adjacent ones closest to the ATX power connector (single-channel mode).

I've got an RMA advance replacement on the way, but of course as anyone knows who went through this, it's impossible to see the status of the request, or any estimated delivery. Evidently it will just show up someday.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> IMO if you have the same problem as him you should RMA as one of the channels is not working. That has happened from water around the DIMMs, but otherwise it could be considered a an RMA issue.


I've never seen it reported happening in a water cooling scenario; mine is air-cooled with a 212. The 212 does jam right up to that closest DIMM slot, though -- I feel safe to assume that the proximity of the CPU fan (its bezel just a hairline away from the DIMM heatsink there) isn't causing the problem. Why would it?


----------



## stasio

^
I had similar problem like "gigabytesucks.info"(?) 2 weeks ago, no boot or boot only in slot 1.
Also thinking about RMA,but.....
So, I check my socket and found some pins bent.......as I replaced my previous cooler (which I probably last time tight to much).
Put back pins in right position, *carefully* place CPU in socket, mount new cooler (do not tight to much)....and voila







, mobo work like charm now.









Btw,
as per your pic with 2 RAM sticks installed, you are not running dual channel.


----------



## twitchyzero

has anyone tried using the bluetooth adapter with the UD5H? I'm using the one that came with the UD5H-WB and I have the connection setup with my galaxy nexus but when I try to transfer file the transfer window only pops up for a few seconds then disappears on the PC...i check on my phone I dont recieve them.


----------



## eltebe

Asrock z77 extreme6 broke one day without reason(other components are fine). Installed ud5h yesterday so far I am happy with the board.
It came with latest bios already installed. Finally speedfan is working for gpu as well. If you want i can upload pictures of my board it's rev 1.1.


----------



## stasio

^
nice,even GB official page did not post Rev.1.1.


----------



## spera

is strange, the plate was suspended for no reason in windows 7 and debug LED Current transition at 03, provided that sample 03 is suspended until it turns off. Is this normal? is normal.


----------



## Sin0822

a rev 1.1? You are in Poland right?

I think rev 1.1 has an updated atheros nic.


----------



## DeXel

Also people report that audio finally works on Linux/Mac OS with UD5H rev 1.1.


----------



## eltebe

network card is: Atheros AR8161/8165 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet
and yes i live in Poland


----------



## DownshiftArtist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Also people report that audio finally works on Linux/Mac OS with UD5H rev 1.1.


Is this issue found on the UD3H as well?


----------



## DeXel

UD3H never had problems with Linux audio to begin with.


----------



## DownshiftArtist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> UD3H never had problems with Linux audio to begin with.


What about Mac OS X?


----------



## DeXel

The problem with UD5H was that outputs were messed up. Green output was hardwired to something else, and only Windows can dynamically reassign what does what. New revision seems to fix it.

I don't think UD3H had that problem. It uses different codec all together. As far as Mac OS goes, as long as there is VIA driver, it should work. Can't tell anything besides that since it is against OCN terms of conditions.


----------



## DownshiftArtist

Fair enough, thanks


----------



## MME1122

Hey guys, looking for a little help with my UD3H.

I'm currently running at 4.5 GHz with offset mode. I have EIST enabled, both C states disabled, and turbo boost disabled.
My CPU constantly stays at 4.5 GHz and max voltage (1.26 V from CPU-z). Why isn't EIST lowering my clocks/vcore?
Also, when I enable C states I get blue screens. I've seen stop codes 0x3B and 0x101, I looked it up and it means add vcore. So the C states are lowering my vcore too aggressively, correct? Shouldn't I be able to use C states with offset mode?
Pretty much everything else is set to auto, and LLC is set to turbo I believe. 1 step below max.

Other issue: I can't seem to get speedfan to control my fans from the motherboard header. Is there speedfan support for this board yet? Or another program that will work? I have easytune but it's not the greatest, I really liked the functionality and control you get with speedfan.


----------



## DeXel

To reduce clock speeds you need to have C1E enabled (CPU Enhanced Halt).

These boards don't support fan control on most of the headers. On those that are supported you can do with Speedfan. Go to configure -> advanced-> select IT8728F chip and choice software controlled for PWM1/2/3 mode. Don't forger "remember it" check mark, and you are done.


----------



## chris-br

Hey guys,

I'm having a issue... Just installed GTL and when runing for the very first time it shows me this error message: " This Driver can't release to failure!!"

Then, i ckick ok button and the prog starts but with all cpu values empty.

Well, after restart, more error messages when trying to open the prog.
" This Driver can't release to failure!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!"
" Don't support the chipset of M.B. now!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!"
"Open driver handle failure!!"

This is how many times it happens before the error disappear .


----------



## DeXel

Make sure that Intel Management Engine is installed, and you are launching GTL with right click run as admin.


----------



## chris-br

Ok, i do have the Intel Management Engine installed and when running as admin it does not show me errors, but cpu info stills empty.


----------



## Shinzen ryu

Hi guyz !

i got CORSAIR VENGEANCE 8GB 2133MHZ, and i want to know if UD5H is capable to handle it. It seems, when i choose the XMP Profile, my system doesn't accept them and try to boot 3 times before correction.

So, is there something to do with DDR3 timings ? note that i've upgraded my bios up to the last version.

Thanks to give me some light.


----------



## Shinzen ryu

Note that my memory modules are ok to run at only 1333 mhz


----------



## DeXel

Have you tried to set frequency, timings and voltage manually? What's your CPU?


----------



## Shinzen ryu

it's a 3770K. i'm not an ace in setting up memory but, i tried to increase the voltage, 1.65, and lowering the timings; So starting from 9-9-9-24 default, i tried also a 11-11-11-30. But nothing changed.


----------



## chris-br

Thats what im talking about. all field for the cpu settings are empty, was not to be showing what is set on bios when you starts it?


----------



## Shinzen ryu

I saw what is on bios et try to copy but still doesn't work... the screen you show right now is the right timing settings for 2133 ?


----------



## Shinzen ryu

If you have some tricks about it, i would be glad to learn them. I gotta go to bed, living in Paris.

Will come back tomorrow


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> To reduce clock speeds you need to have C1E enabled (CPU Enhanced Halt).
> These boards don't support fan control on most of the headers. On those that are supported you can do with Speedfan. Go to configure -> advanced-> select IT8728F chip and choice software controlled for PWM1/2/3 mode. Don't forger "remember it" check mark, and you are done.


When I had it enabled it would clock down to 4.25 GHz from 4.5, disabled it sits at 4.5 all the time. Voltage did drop more with C states on but not drastically, usually 1.1-1.2 from 1.26. But I get BSODs.
EIST doesn't seem to do anything.

Speedfan is working though! Thanks


----------



## Sin0822

EIST with turbo enabled should do a lot.


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> EIST with turbo enabled should do a lot.


So I enable turbo when overclocked? Should I modify the turbo multipliers or just turn it on and leave everything else alone?


----------



## DeXel

MME1122, try to switch Windows power saving stuff to balanced if you happen to be on high performance.

chris-br, did you try to reinstall? What BIOS are you running?


----------



## chris-br

It's working, i just have to fill the info and click apply. Thanks.

I do use the latest bios always.


----------



## gizmo83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> To reduce clock speeds you need to have C1E enabled (CPU Enhanced Halt).
> These boards don't support fan control on most of the headers. On those that are supported you can do with Speedfan. Go to configure -> advanced-> select IT8728F chip and choice software controlled for PWM1/2/3 mode. Don't forger "remember it" check mark, and you are done.


Thank you!









Just a question on Ud5h. Why from 4ghz my mobo increase automatically the vcore to 1.30v and over every time ? At 4.4ghz with "manual" voltage it's stable at 1.22v. If I decrease the voltage ---> bsod


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> MME1122, try to switch Windows power saving stuff to balanced if you happen to be on high performance.
> chris-br, did you try to reinstall? What BIOS are you running?


Haha, that did it. Thanks. Clocks down to about 2.0 GHz and 0.9 V now. Aside from clock/voltage being reduced is there any other difference between balanced and high performance? Aside from what you can change in the menus?

Should I try to re-enable one or both C states? And how about turbo boost?

Also can I control 3 pin fans with speedfan and the motherboard headers? It would be voltage control instead of PWM right?

Thanks for the help, I have a lot of questions


----------



## DeXel

CPU header supports PWM and voltage. Other headers, well they don't like both lol.

I think whatever is in the settings of power management that's the only difference.

As far as overclocking, do whatever works for you







. It's going to be different for everybody.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a question on Ud5h. Why from 4ghz my mobo increase automatically the vcore to 1.30v and over every time ? At 4.4ghz with "manual" voltage it's stable at 1.22v. If I decrease the voltage ---> bsod


4.0 Ghz at auto? I don't really get the problem here...


----------



## Shinzen ryu

Hi,

Could you help me ? My Corsair vengeance run at 1333 mhz instead of 2133... even with xmp profile1


----------



## DeXel

Well, I told you to try set everything manually. XMP doesn't always work, especially with memory that isn't in compatible memory list.

Go here, and set 21 (or something similar) for system memory multiplier to get 2133 Mhz in memory frequency.

Then go here, and set standard timings according to your RAM.

Then go here, and set DRAM voltage.

If doesn't boot, try to raise IMC and VTT over here by 0.01 until it does.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> Haha, that did it. Thanks. Clocks down to about 2.0 GHz and 0.9 V now. Aside from clock/voltage being reduced is there any other difference between balanced and high performance? Aside from what you can change in the menus?
> Should I try to re-enable one or both C states? And how about turbo boost?
> Also can I control 3 pin fans with speedfan and the motherboard headers? It would be voltage control instead of PWM right?
> Thanks for the help, I have a lot of questions


Cpu_fan can be set to voltage mode in bios and Sys_fan1 header always works with voltage control.


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> On the UD5H fans work this way.
> In SpeedFan:
> Fan1=CPU_FAN
> Fan2=SYS_FAN1
> Fan3=SYS_FAN2
> Fan4=SYS_FAN3
> Fan5=SYS_FAN4
> Temp1=mobo
> Temp2=z77 PCH
> Temp3=CPU-mobo
> Cores0/1/2/3 need +20 offset to be correct
> PWM1=CPU_FAN --> Voltage (3-pin fan)
> PWM2=SYS_FAN1/2/3
> PWM3=CPU_FAN --> PWM (4-pin fan)
> No voltages shown yet, it takes a while for new hardware to be supported.
> //


I assume Temp1=mobo is the case temperature?


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sugita2Junko*
> 
> I assume Temp1=mobo is the case temperature?


It's a sensor near the bottom edge, it approximates ambient temp, or case plenum temp. It's supposed to be used for fan control, but SYS_FAN control in the UD5H doesn't work.


----------



## gizmo83

imc in cpu settings and profile vtt (1.20v) in dram settings are two different things?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> It's a sensor near the bottom edge, it approximates ambient temp, or case plenum temp. It's supposed to be used for fan control, but SYS_FAN control in the UD5H doesn't work.


CAB2, i know you have a pretty good understanding of the fan header control for this board which makes me scratch my head when I see you make a statement like this. sys_fan control works as described in manual with a few things not explained real well. For those who don't like the ET6 program (which is very lacking when it comes to controlling your fans) Speedfan works imho very well.


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> It's a sensor near the bottom edge, it approximates ambient temp, or case plenum temp. It's supposed to be used for fan control, but SYS_FAN control in the UD5H doesn't work.


I was able to control SYS_FAN 1/2/3 with PWM2 in speedfan, but only as a group not individually.

Noticed SYS_FAN2 would always be 2x the rpm as SYS_FAN1 when adjusting PWM2 control percentage .

Looking at the manual SYS_FAN1 is different than the SYS_FAN2/3
pin1: GND
pin2: +12V/Speedcontrol
pin3: Sense
pin4: VCC

What is VCC, its the only fan that has this.


----------



## barkeater

Although not described well in manual, Sys_Fan1 can control pwm or voltage. Do a search on system fan control and you will get a full explanation.


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Well the CPU_Fan header also does voltage or pwm.
CPU_Fan
pin1: GND
pin2: +12V/Speed control
pin3: Sense
pin4: Speed control

SYS_Fan1
pin1: GND
pin2: +12V/Speed control
pin3: Sense
pin4: VCC

So what the difference?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Although not described well in manual, Sys_Fan1 can control pwm or voltage. Do a search on system fan control and you will get a full explanation.


How did you verify that pin 4 of Sys_fan1 header actually outputs PWM signal, with an oscilloscope ?


----------



## barkeater

It has been confirmed by other users many months ago on this thread


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

I control my mcp35x2 off of the system header. It works fine, I just wish that there were more options in bios.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> I control my mcp35x2 off of the system header. It works fine, I just wish that there were more options in bios.


From Sys_fan1 header ? Headers 2 and 3 work just fine with PWM but header 1 on my board only does voltage control.


----------



## Sugita2Junko

My Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fan will exhibit this high pitch noise when using PWM controls at low speeds, this happens when i used it in Sys_fan2/3 or CPU_Fan (sys_fan2 makes it whine louder for some reason). Now when i used Sys_fan1 there is no longer any high pitch whine or clicks.

I'm also thinking Sys_fan1 also only does voltage control.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> From Sys_fan1 header ? Headers 2 and 3 work just fine with PWM but header 1 on my board only does voltage control.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/3840#post_18345833


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/3840#post_18345833


Your linked post only says that Sys_fan headers 1,2 and 3 are controlled by PWM2 control of Speedfan, it says nothing about how each header works. PWM2 is just a label in Speedfan, it doesn't mean that all headers behind it use PWM control.


----------



## barkeater

what's your point. are you saying that sys_fan1 will not control a pwm fan? That would be contrary to the manual and what many others have reported. maybe your board works different


----------



## Sugita2Junko

A PWM fan can be controlled by either pwm or voltage. It seems like Sys_Fan1 is using voltage control while 2/3 is using pwm.

My cougar fan exhibit high pitch whine when placed in Sys_fan2, but when inserted into Sys_fan1 the noise is gone. So i'm deducting sys_fan1 is using voltage control.

In speedfan PWM2 label, that setting controls all Sys_fan1/2/3 at the same time with different types of controls I guess.


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Found solid evidence SYS_Fan1 does not use PWM control with physical hardware.

I just used a Rosewill Model RCW-FPS-401 12" PWM Splitter
Voltage is powered by a molex while only the PWM signal (blue cable) is sent from the motherboard along with a green tachometer.

Hooked up two PWM fan using it to SYS_Fan2. I was able to control the speed in speedfan.
Tried it on SYS_Fan1. Zero fan control. They spun at full 12Volt and max RPM.

Now if i plug my PWM fan directly into SYS_Fan1 without using the splitter I was then able to control speed again but via voltage.


----------



## mm67

You can also verify that Sys_fan1 header uses voltage control by connecting a PWM fan to it and setting speed of PWM2 to 0% in Speedfan. If header outputs PWM control then fan will continue to run at minimum speed, if it uses voltage control then fan will stop because voltage goes to zero. Try this with headers 1 and 2 and you will see that they behave differently.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> ^
> I had similar problem like "gigabytesucks.info"(?) 2 weeks ago, no boot or boot only in slot 1.
> Also thinking about RMA,but.....
> So, I check my socket and found some pins bent.......as I replaced my previous cooler (which I probably last time tight to much).
> Put back pins in right position, *carefully* place CPU in socket, mount new cooler (do not tight to much)....and voila
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , mobo work like charm now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw,
> as per your pic with 2 RAM sticks installed, you are not running dual channel.


Incredible. Just incredible.

First off, this is yet another moment when I am so grateful for good samaritans who offer useful advice here. And generally, it's great to have this forum with such knowledgeable people involved, who are civil.

This issue was both irritating and debilitating, making me lose usage of my computer that I built for professional video editing, after recently upgrading just the case to an Antec Nine Hundred (giving up on PWM control for all its faults on this board, opting instead for "fan overkill" using all of the Antec tri-speed fans firing at their lowest speed, rather than trying to get fewer/smaller fans spin up and down using PWM, which is a nightmare on this board).

When re-attaching the Hyper 212 CPU cooler, I screwed each of the four corners in tightly -- not excessively, but not lightly. I RMA'ed the board after exhaustive diagnosis, finding it totally bizarre that the farthest two slots worked great, but not the closest two. (That would make sense if it was a channel issue, but it wasn't.) Gigabyte technicians were equally puzzled, after recommending a few BIOS tweaks (e.g., higher DRAM voltages), and claimed -- perhaps incompetently -- that they'd never, ever heard of this problem.

I just installed the replacement motherboard -- not fun -- and examined the old one's CPU pins.

BAM. One of them was bent.

The new motherboard works great, back in form.

I suppose that this problem would have been resolved anyway because of the replacement, without me knowing the reason; but I certainly screwed down the cooler more lightly this time, because of stasio's advice -- and I recommend you do, too!

Thanks again, stasio. And boo on Cooler Master for not emphasizing this installation issue enough.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Incredible. Just incredible.
> First off, this is yet another moment when I am so grateful for good samaritans who offer useful advice here. And generally, it's great to have this forum with such knowledgeable people involved, who are civil.
> This issue was both irritating and debilitating, making me lose usage of my computer that I built for professional video editing, after recently upgrading just the case to an Antec Nine Hundred (giving up on PWM control for all its faults on this board, opting instead for "fan overkill" using all of the Antec tri-speed fans firing at their lowest speed, rather than trying to get fewer/smaller fans spin up and down using PWM, which is a nightmare on this board).
> When re-attaching the Hyper 212 CPU cooler, I screwed each of the four corners in tightly -- not excessively, but not lightly. I RMA'ed the board after exhaustive diagnosis, finding it totally bizarre that the farthest two slots worked great, but not the closest two. (That would make sense if it was a channel issue, but it wasn't.) Gigabyte technicians were equally puzzled, after recommending a few BIOS tweaks (e.g., higher DRAM voltages), and claimed -- perhaps incompetently -- that they'd never, ever heard of this problem.
> I just installed the replacement motherboard -- not fun -- and examined the old one's CPU pins.
> BAM. One of them was bent.
> The new motherboard works great, back in form.
> I suppose that this problem would have been resolved anyway because of the replacement, without me knowing the reason; but I certainly screwed down the cooler more lightly this time, because of stasio's advice -- and I recommend you do, too!
> Thanks again, stasio. And boo on Cooler Master for not emphasizing this installation issue enough.


Glad it got worked out. Gotta be honest tho, I've never bent a pin installing a heatsink. True the coolermaster is sh** to mount, but I'm surprised tightening it good and hard bent a pin. Something to watch I guess.


----------



## stasio

^^ Yea,glad that's work.








Another advice is to keep memory (video card) contacts always clean (I using soft school rubber).


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Incredible. Just incredible.
> First off, this is yet another moment when I am so grateful for good samaritans who offer useful advice here. And generally, it's great to have this forum with such knowledgeable people involved, who are civil.
> This issue was both irritating and debilitating, making me lose usage of my computer that I built for professional video editing, after recently upgrading just the case to an Antec Nine Hundred (giving up on PWM control for all its faults on this board, opting instead for "fan overkill" using all of the Antec tri-speed fans firing at their lowest speed, rather than trying to get fewer/smaller fans spin up and down using PWM, which is a nightmare on this board).
> When re-attaching the Hyper 212 CPU cooler, I screwed each of the four corners in tightly -- not excessively, but not lightly. I RMA'ed the board after exhaustive diagnosis, finding it totally bizarre that the farthest two slots worked great, but not the closest two. (That would make sense if it was a channel issue, but it wasn't.) Gigabyte technicians were equally puzzled, after recommending a few BIOS tweaks (e.g., higher DRAM voltages), and claimed -- perhaps incompetently -- that they'd never, ever heard of this problem.
> I just installed the replacement motherboard -- not fun -- and examined the old one's CPU pins.
> BAM. One of them was bent.
> The new motherboard works great, back in form.
> I suppose that this problem would have been resolved anyway because of the replacement, without me knowing the reason; but I certainly screwed down the cooler more lightly this time, because of stasio's advice -- and I recommend you do, too!
> Thanks again, stasio. And boo on Cooler Master for not emphasizing this installation issue enough.


Good!








I have two UD5H boards, and one of the reasons for that is because the first board came with bent cpu pins! Newegg refused RMA but Gigabyte replaced the socket with no questions. My guess is when the cpu socket cover was inserted it was done so badly and that is when the pins were bent. Only a guess, though.
While waiting for RMA I bought another one. This is when they first came out, and I was dying for an upgrade and had a little spare cash.


----------



## DownshiftArtist

Is the UD5H any better for over clocking than the UD3H? I'm looking to be able to push my 3770k to around 5ghz; will either of these boards be able to do that or do I need a better board?


----------



## DeXel

Either should do fine. VRM on UD5H should stay cooler though.


----------



## baest

I got the GA Z77X-UD3H and I am having some bizarre issues with either it or my ASUS 680GTX DCU2.

Integrated graphics work - HDMI and DVI.
My 680GTX in the x16 PCI-E slot I get nothing, No Signal Detected. - HDMI and DVI
But here's the kicker.. My old 560 Ti works just fine in the x16 PCI-E slot on this board, automatically detects and everything, currently using it to post here!

I thought the 680GTX might be DOA, BUT it works perfectly fine in my brothers AMD setup.... this is what has really got me stumped.

I am absolutely at wits end with this and I wonder if anyone has experienced anything similar?

EDIT: I should also mention that I had initially had a 700W PSU with 30A 12V rails.. I have also tried a 700W PSU with 57A 12V rails to no aval.


----------



## DeXel

Did you update the BIOS? Some GPUs may have problems with certain boards. My EVGA GTX460 that I got from RMA (the original worked fine) didn't output signal on my previous motherboard (nforce 780i) but worked fine for SLI.

If BIOS update doesn't work either replace the card with a different model (MSI Lightning?), contact Gigabyte and report incompatibility, or get a different board.


----------



## baest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Did you update the BIOS? Some GPUs may have problems with certain boards. My EVGA GTX460 that I got from RMA (the original worked fine) didn't output signal on my previous motherboard (nforce 780i) but worked fine for SLI.
> If BIOS update doesn't work either replace the card with a different model (MSI Lightning?), contact Gigabyte and report incompatibility, or get a different board.


Yeah, i updated to F19e, no cigar. It has really got me in a bit of a tizzy, hahaha. I've tried what I can describe as everything.. changing PSU's, cold booting on individual sticks of RAM.. different video cards.

I just can't comprehend how my 680GTX isn't compatible with my Z77X. I'd say thousands have the same sort of setup without issue and aren't all (correct me if I'm wrong) 6*0GTX cards pretty much exactly the nVidia reference PCB?


----------



## DeXel

Direct Cupper is definitely not a reference design.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5699/nvidia-geforce-gtx-680-review/5
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5699/nvidia-geforce-gtx-680-review/5

Also different GTX680 might run different BIOS. That would explain why my original GTX460 worked fine but the exactly same replacement had problems. It most likely had a different BIOS or something.

Did you try to remove the battery and short the pins to clear CMOS in a proper way?


----------



## baest

I stand corrected.

Yeah I've cleared the CMOS by removing the battery and using the on board switch.

What gets me is, when I google my vid card and mobo together, there aren't at least a few posts with people either having success or failure (too) with them. Surely I'm not the only person to have purchased this combination?

I might try flashing to F18 BIOS release


----------



## jimba86

Hey guys,

Im looking at getting one of the Giga Z77 boards for benching to use my memory collection properly. Either UD3H,UP5 or UP7 etc.

I want something that isnt to much (UP7 price is max I will go) and is good with PSC/BBSE/samsung memory and it fast in 2d and 3d benching. the board will only be used for benching so I want the best bang for the buck.

So what would you guys recommend?


----------



## DeXel

I haven't seen GTX680 and UD3H reports besides this one, but there definetely were some with other boards

Also check that iGPU is disabled in BIOS, and set primary GPU to PEG1, I believe.

jimba86, UD4H got the higher RAM overclock record so far, unless something else beat it. It should be out soon. Gigabyte boards had/still have some problems with Samsung RAM. I will let an owner of such combo to comment on this though.


----------



## baest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I haven't seen GTX680 and UD3H reports besides this one, but there definetely were some with other boards
> Also check that iGPU is disabled in BIOS, and set primary GPU to PEG1, I believe.


That I've tried too.. no display connected and when I restart from that, It automatically selects AUTO again in the BIOS :/


----------



## DeXel

You just happen to have one of these weird cases. Honestly, the fastest way is to either change the mobo, or get a different card. It probably will take forever to get a response and the fix from either Gigabyte or Asus.

If you had a reference GTX680, you could try to flash a BIOS of a different vendor and it might fix the problem. In case of failure you just need to use an integrated GPU to flash BIOS back to original. With non-reference card, there is probably a chance of destroying the card. I am not exactly sure.


----------



## baest

You're probably right, it's just been boffins since it came in the mail.

I think I'm going to send the card and the mobo back to the vendor, because I'm 100% sure the problem can be replicated with these two specific bastards I managed to acquire, verbatim.


----------



## DeXel

BTW, does it run in second PCI-E x16 (x8)?


----------



## baest

I have had success. I flashed back to the F18 BIOS and changed the PEG to Gen2 (Was on Auto), BAM, works.

I'm sure I tried to do this under the Beta F19e BIOS to no avail.

So for anyone having issues with a GA Z77X-UD3H and a 680GTX (Specifically ASUS DirectCU II), definitely have a look at changing the Peg Gen to Gen2.

I hope I can assist somebody with this, as it absolutely did my nut in.


----------



## DeXel

So you forced PCI-E 2.0 mode on it? Now I remember that some people had to do that to get it running. I am not sure what board they were running though.


----------



## baest

Yeah, but I'm also certain that the setting wasn't working on the F19e (beta) BIOS that I had flashed to initially. I'm sure we tried Gen1/2/3.


----------



## gizmo83

My ud5h has condensers purple. I have read that it is a second revision. My biggest problem is the management of the voltage which is far higher than normal. I hope gigabyte solve the problem because it would be really a huge disappointment. My cpu is a 3770k. If I set 4.4ghz normal, dvid +0.05 v and llc medium, my vcore is 1.35v! Horrible ...


----------



## flobbadob

righty, got a bit of a strange issue with my gigabyte z77x-d3h (i think its the mobo causing the issue, not sure though)

My system works and is able to post (i5-3570k, 2x4gb ram, 212 evo heatsink), the cpu and ram show up fine on the bios with correct readings. However the problems start when the system is powered down and up again. After this the system will not post, and seems to get stuck in a boot cycle wherein the cpu cooler fan seems to spin up in bursts. The only way to make the system post again is to wait about 10 minutes.

The power supply im using is the corsair tx550m, im not sure if this is causing the problem, but when the psu is on and my system is off i can hear a high pitch noise coming from the power supply, i have no idea if its faulty or not, it seems to power everything fine.

Another thing which is odd is that when i do get the successful post, it takes like 9 seconds from power on to get the bios splash screen. What seems to happen is that the cpu cooler fan spins up and slows down as the psu fan is spinning up and then the cpu fan spins up then i get the post.

Any help would be very nice, currently waiting on a reply from gigabyte.

Things ive tried: reseating ram in all slots and trying just one dimm. I have successfully flashed the bios to the latest version, this made no difference to my problem.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> My ud5h has condensers purple. I have read that it is a second revision. My biggest problem is the management of the voltage which is far higher than normal. I hope gigabyte solve the problem because it would be really a huge disappointment. My cpu is a 3770k. If I set 4.4ghz normal, dvid +0.05 v and llc medium, my vcore is 1.35v! Horrible ...


Likely not a Gigabyte issue and more likely an issue with your understanding of how to correctly set the voltage in the bios. If you set your multiplier to 44 and dvid to 0.05, what is the value of your vid under stress (i.e., running prime)? To see what your vid is you download coretemp install and run while stressing your cpu. What you may find is you need to increase your llc to overcome vdroop and/or your cpu is not a very good overclocker (i.e., high vid). In either case, it's not a function of your board.


----------



## hpmoon

FYI, I've been running steadily/happily with these settings from a few months ago, at the same multiplier of 44:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/3600_100#post_18113583

Might make for a good reference point.


----------



## flobbadob

as an update to my previous issue, does anyone know what this noise (http://www.mediafire.com/?bvsdrpir3sfaus0) means as a motherboard speaker error. This is recorded from my phone but you can hear the click noise which the speaker makes, and also the boot loop of the cpu fan. Im using the motherboard gigabyte z77x-d3h.

thanks


----------



## Nemesis429

Anyone else having this problem, when I turn my PC on nothing displays on screen I think its called a cold boot?, but when i turn it off and on again it works? any ideas guys.


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Having problems with usb3.0 on my UD5H

My two front panel USB3.0 port is connected to *F_USB30_1*, but only one of the port works.

The other one semi works,but drops/disconnects after 3-4 seconds when transferring files.

I have intel usb 3.0 drivers installed 1.0.6.245 & intel extensible host controller 1.0.6.245

What could be the problem? Noticed in Win7 Device Manager there are two "Generic USB Hub" with yellow exclamation icons.

----
I am assuming F_USB30_1 is connected directly to Z77 Chipset, and F_USB30_2/F_USB30_3 is the VIA USB Hub?
---


----------



## Sin0822

Try to go into the BIOS and manually select to to change INIT Display First to PCIE16_1 or whatever it is for the first PCI-E 16x slot. You can also try to disable the iGPU and it might then force the dGPU.

IF that doesn't work, update your BIOS.

BTW I just for the UD5H rev 1.1 and UD4H in if anyone has questions.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flobbadob*
> 
> as an update to my previous issue, does anyone know what this noise (http://www.mediafire.com/?bvsdrpir3sfaus0) means as a motherboard speaker error. This is recorded from my phone but you can hear the click noise which the speaker makes, and also the boot loop of the cpu fan. Im using the motherboard gigabyte z77x-d3h.
> thanks


That noise most likely comes from HDD. I don't think anything else can make such clicking noise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sugita2Junko*
> 
> Having problems with usb3.0 on my UD5H
> My two front panel USB3.0 port is connected to *F_USB30_1*, but only one of the port works.
> The other one semi works,but drops/disconnects after 3-4 seconds when transferring files.
> I have intel usb 3.0 drivers installed 1.0.6.245 & intel extensible host controller 1.0.6.245
> What could be the problem? Noticed in Win7 Device Manager there are two "Generic USB Hub" with yellow exclamation icons.
> ----
> I am assuming F_USB30_1 is connected directly to Z77 Chipset, and F_USB30_2/F_USB30_3 is the VIA USB Hub?
> ---


Are you sure it's not your case's front panel itself? Did you try the one that Gigabyte included in the package?

And yes, F_USB30_1 is tied to chipset and the other two run through VIA hub.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BTW I just for the UD5H rev 1.1 and UD4H in if anyone has questions.


Are you planning to do UD4H teardown?


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Just tried the 3.5" USB panel supplied with the UD5H. Both USB3.0 works fine with file transfer. I guess my Antec F_Panel is defective.

So what about the two exclamation icons i see in device manager "Generic USB Hub"?


----------



## frag85

I have a set of G.Skill ARES ram; part # F3-1866C10-8GAB on my UD3H (F18 bios).

The ram works just fine, mobo recognizes it but changing any settings in the bios have no effect on the RAM. Anyone experience this with any memory on these boards?

I manually reset the BIOS on the board and set factory defaults in the bios. 2 other sets of ram that work accept changes to the memory just fine.

Edit: posted over at the Gigabyte support section on tweaktown, waiting to hear back.


----------



## kanaks

Hello mates,I've stumbled upon a curious case regarding memory slots for UD5H. The manual and the label on the PCB as well, states that the First Slot is the one at the Right. I have installed the RAM following these instructions, but CPU-Z seems to have a different opinion. Who speaks the truth?

Taken from User's Manual GA-Z77X-UD5H/Rev. 1101 p.16




VS


----------



## frag85

Is your CPU-Z up to date? My UD3H says I have memory in slots 1 and 2. They are in DDR_1 and DDR_2 (same as UD5. Far right, and 3rd from right).


----------



## kanaks

CPU-Z is Version 1.62.0 - October 2012


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> CPU-Z is Version 1.62.0 - October 2012


CPUZ shows the same thing for me. I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> CPUZ shows the same thing for me. I wouldn't worry about it.


Thanks, I am happy to see that this is not a "Special" Incident


----------



## kanaks

Indeed Running the following commands shows that CPUZ is wrong and Gigabyte knows what is doing









C:\Users\Nou>wmic MEMORYCHIP get banklabel, devicelocator, caption, capacity
BankLabel Capacity Caption DeviceLocator
BANK 1 4294967296 Physical Memory ChannelA-DIMM1
BANK 3 4294967296 Physical Memory ChannelB-DIMM1


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Indeed Running the following commands shows that CPUZ is wrong and Gigabyte knows what is doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> C:\Users\Nou>wmic MEMORYCHIP get banklabel, devicelocator, caption, capacity
> BankLabel Capacity Caption DeviceLocator
> BANK 1 4294967296 Physical Memory ChannelA-DIMM1
> BANK 3 4294967296 Physical Memory ChannelB-DIMM1


Nice!


----------



## frag85

That's cool. I did not know about the wmic command. Or at least I've forgotten it existed. Looks like it gives you everything.

Code:



Code:


C:\Windows\System32>wmic
wmic:root\cli>memorychip
BankLabel  Capacity    Caption          CreationClassName     DataWidth  Description      DeviceLocator   FormFactor  HotSwappable  InstallDate  InterleaveDataDepth  InterleavePosition  Manufacturer  MemoryType  Model  Name             OtherIdentifyingInfo  PartNumber       PositionInRow  PoweredOn  Removable  Replaceable  SerialNumber  SKU  Speed  Status  Tag                TotalWidth  TypeDetail  Version
BANK 3     8589934592  Physical Memory  Win32_PhysicalMemory  64         Physical Memory  ChannelB-DIMM1  8                                      2                    2                   04CD          0                  Physical Memory                        F3-1866C10-8GAB                                                    00000000           1867           Physical Memory 0  64          128
BANK 1     8589934592  Physical Memory  Win32_PhysicalMemory  64         Physical Memory  ChannelA-DIMM1  8                                      2                    1                   04CD          0                  Physical Memory                        F3-1866C10-8GAB                                                    00000000           1867           Physical Memory 1  64          128


----------



## Sin0822

you are in the correct slots, don't worry about CPUz.


----------



## expresso

Hi - i am looking at getting the UD5H with the i7 3770K -

i am looking for a good stable set up -

is this a good choice ? or should i look at the UP4 - which is newer in the same price range -

which would be the better way to go ? i dont do gaming - but would like to OC - nothing too extreme but what ever i can get stable would be good -

i am not an expert at all the settings etc, - would need help for sure to OC - but at first just want to get it installed and running stable

which would be the best bet here ?

also want 16 gig ram kit - i just want it to work - anyone know of a good working drop it in Kit thats fast also -

i am ready to buy now - just cant decide and driving me nuts - i hear so many Neg. reviews - but also alot of Positive also -

need help with picking a board -

thanks -


----------



## DeXel

UP4 has updated IR3550 mosfets and 6 phase design. UD5H uses PowerPAKs and doubled to 12 phase design. As far as overclocking on air/water they are both equally capable boards.

UP4 offers Thunderbolt ports whereas UD5H offers headphone amplifier. Everything else should be obvious from specs. There are both great boards, and stable. I personally didn't have any major problems with UD5H since the day 1.


----------



## spera

anything after so long I have my new Corsair ram CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8R 1.50V

I put it on xmp in the bios and I put the ram voltage 1.5v vtt but puts me impressive 1.20 V,

I have it on manual to 1.05V, it is normal for me to wear xmp vtt voltage so exaggerated?

Thanks happy holidays


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> UP4 has updated IR3550 mosfets and 6 phase design. UD5H uses PowerPAKs and doubled to 12 phase design. As far as overclocking on air/water they are both equally capable boards.
> UP4 offers Thunderbolt ports whereas UD5H offers headphone amplifier. Everything else should be obvious from specs. There are both great boards, and stable. I personally didn't have any major problems with UD5H since the day 1.


thanks - so if i were to get the UD5H - it would be a good choice - stable - fast - i need to pick a board for the i7 - and cant seem to decide

since they are both the same price - not sure if going with the UP4 is a better choice or just getting the UD5 -

i just want it to work stable - also can you recommend a good ram kit for the UD5 H 16 gig kit - two sticks -

would the G skill sniper model work ? compatible ? i want to make sure everything will work when i put it together -

thanks -


----------



## barkeater

If you want the thunderbolt, get the up4, if not or you don't know or care one way or the other, get the UD5.

You can pick any 16 gig kit from the recommended ram gigabyte provides on its site for the board. all of the ram suppliers also have a ram compatibility table for most of the current boards. Just go to gskill and use their memory finder using the name of the board.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> If you want the thunderbolt, get the up4, if not or you don't know or care one way or the other, get the UD5.
> You can pick any 16 gig kit from the recommended ram gigabyte provides on its site for the board. all of the ram suppliers also have a ram compatibility table for most of the current boards. Just go to gskill and use their memory finder using the name of the board.


i dont think i will be using the thunderbolt ports - now or in the future - so the UD5 is a solid board in general - stable etc, ?

would you know or can recommend any other memory if you think G skill is not good enough for some reason - i will go look at G skill website - on the gigabyte - dosnt show much with 16 gig kit -

thanks


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Hi - i am looking at getting the UD5H with the i7 3770K -
> i am looking for a good stable set up -
> is this a good choice ? or should i look at the UP4 - which is newer in the same price range -
> which would be the better way to go ? i dont do gaming - but would like to OC - nothing too extreme but what ever i can get stable would be good -
> i am not an expert at all the settings etc, - would need help for sure to OC - but at first just want to get it installed and running stable
> which would be the best bet here ?
> also want 16 gig ram kit - i just want it to work - anyone know of a good working drop it in Kit thats fast also -
> i am ready to buy now - just cant decide and driving me nuts - i hear so many Neg. reviews - but also alot of Positive also -
> need help with picking a board -
> thanks -


If you don't mind the thunderbolt i think that the UD5H is more than capable of "casual" overclocking plus it has the looks







.

Another minor considaration is to check if your CPU cooler of choice fits the mobo (if you go air) since the UP4 has taller heatsinks (i think is targeted more on the watecooling side).


----------



## barkeater

2x8 is going to be a bit pricy by here is a set of gskill that has been approved for the ud5 by gskill

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589&Tpk=F3-2400C10D-16GTX

or this for less

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231486


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> If you don't mind the thunderbolt i think that the UD5H is more than capable of "casual" overclocking plus it has the looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Another minor considaration is to check if your CPU cooler of choice fits the mobo (if you go air) since the UP4 has taller heatsinks (i think is targeted more on the watecooling side).


i have the antec 920 kit - in the box waiting to be installed - i plan to use it unless i have problems for some reason -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> 2x8 is going to be a bit pricy by here is a set of gskill that has been approved for the ud5 by gskill
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589&Tpk=F3-2400C10D-16GTX
> or this for less
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231486


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231609

i was looking at this kit - would this work stable at rated speeds at least - i will just use the XMP profile and be done with it -

i just want it to work at the rated speed - and its low profile - not sure if having the larger Rams interfere with anything later on -

i will be using the antec 920 -


----------



## DeXel

RAM incompatibilities are rare. G. Skill even confirms UD5H support for that RAM.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> RAM incompatibilities are rare. G. Skill even confirms UD5H support for that RAM.


i seen that also - which is good to know - for me at least - do you know how good this model is in general - the sniper ?

if i used it at those stock speeds with XMP Profile -

thanks -


----------



## DeXel

RAM is just RAM. It will work at advertised speeds. None of 2x8GB kits overclock good as far as I know.

My friend has 2x4GB sniper kit that we picked last year. Still works great with XMP on his Asus board.


----------



## expresso

ok - thanks - it should work with the XMP profiles at least right -

even if i dont want to OC the speed lets say -

would you know with the UD5H - can i use both LAN ports to work together for a better LAN speed ?

i am ready to purchase these items - just want to make sure it will all work together --

one other thing - i had a Gigabyte board with the A10 - FM2 85x -- on the Debug Code - it shows A0 - i heard it was ok - it suppose to stay there - from gigabyte support -

but is that correct - on my new UD5H - is there suppose to be a Code showing if everything is working correctly ?

in the manual it shows as IDE Intiziation started - but it just stays there - not sure if that was a issue or not -

i am concerned about my new board now - UD5H -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> RAM is just RAM. It will work at advertised speeds. None of 2x8GB kits overclock good as far as I know.
> My friend has 2x4GB sniper kit that we picked last year. Still works great with XMP on his Asus board.


i am confused with the speed and command rate - what would this memory run at - 9 9 9 24 T1 ?

on the website - it shows http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=544

9 9 9 24 2N -- i dont know what 2N is - i though it was either T1 or T2 -- with T1 being the better one -

if this dosnt run at T1 - is there a better kit which can run at T1 with same timings and size etc, ?


----------



## barkeater

yeah, I'm sure it's just a typo. but you can e-mail gskill and confirm. no such thing as a command rate of 2N.









By the by, likely you can run at 1T, but really is not all that important if you have to run at 2T.

My Corsair Dominator 8GB kit xmp profile set command rate at 2T, and I changed to 1T (kept everything else same) and no issues.

Regarding the ud5 debug code. yeah, A0 means everything is a-ok.


----------



## frag85

Ram is ram. I got set of G.Skill ARES 1866 C10 for $55 during the Black November sales. 16GB, 2x8GB. There is little difference with these 1155 platforms when it comes to frequency and latency. Not much is gained over 1600mhz. Unless every point counts in benchmarks, just get the cheaper stuff.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Ram is ram. I got set of G.Skill ARES 1866 C10 for $55 during the Black November sales. 16GB, 2x8GB. There is little difference with these 1155 platforms when it comes to frequency and latency. Not much is gained over 1600mhz. Unless every point counts in benchmarks, just get the cheaper stuff.


i think i am leaning on the G skill sniper - at 1600 - timing 9 at 1.5 volts - its on the list to work with my board - 16 gig kit -

what do you think of this one ? anyone using it - and with the same board ? UD5H -

i have it in my cart at amazon and its out of stock now - the board that is - Ram i have to get from newegg -

i7 from amazon -

i like the low profile ram kits in general - all those tall Rams - may look like - Whow - but i can see more problems with clearance in general - today i am going with watercooling - Antec 920
but who knows later - if that dosnt work out - and i have to go to a larger heat sink - dont want my Ram to be in the way -

so what do you guys think of this Ram ?


----------



## chas1723

OK guys....I recently got a 77x-ud5h and paired it with a 3770k processor. It has been a long time since I built a PC(AMD PII 955) so I am in need of help. It seems my chip does not downclock at all and in fact runs all the time at 3.7-3.8ghz. I was under the impression that it would downclock to 1.6ghz. Also I am trying to figure out what I need to do for overclocking. This BIOS is overwhelming at first. I am not worried about overclocking my Samsung ram just yet. I first want to start with the processor. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Sugita2Junko

If you have the default optimized settings loaded and installed windows it should be idling at 1.6ghz C1E and Speedstep enabled. Is your CPU running something in the background while you are checking?


----------



## chas1723

Nevermind....I found that I have my power management set to performance

My next feat is figuring out how to overclock this bad boy and the get up the nerve to delid my 3770K.


----------



## expresso

I finally pulled the trigger on the UD5H - its on back order -

i7 3770k and 16 gig sniper Ram kit 1600 - at 9 timings -

i hope this all works together -

any tips for a newbie when i get all of this together ?

also the cooler will be the antec 920 khuler --

i am thinking of putting Windows 8 - should work out the box ?

most likely get this all together by next year - depends when i get the board - from amazon - hoping to get the latest board version -


----------



## barkeater

^^^
congratz


----------



## expresso

thanks - crossing my fingers - last build didnt work out - most likely something i did - or didnt do -

either way - i went with intel this time- and hope i get a stable working system when done -


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> OK guys....I recently got a 77x-ud5h and paired it with a 3770k processor. It has been a long time since I built a PC(AMD PII 955) so I am in need of help. It seems my chip does not downclock at all and in fact runs all the time at 3.7-3.8ghz. I was under the impression that it would downclock to 1.6ghz. Also I am trying to figure out what I need to do for overclocking. This BIOS is overwhelming at first. I am not worried about overclocking my Samsung ram just yet. I first want to start with the processor. Any help would be appreciated.


Did you turn on speedstep (EIST) and C1,C1E?

Also need to be balanced power setting in Windows.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> I finally pulled the trigger on the UD5H - its on back order -
> i7 3770k and 16 gig sniper Ram kit 1600 - at 9 timings -
> i hope this all works together -
> any tips for a newbie when i get all of this together ?
> also the cooler will be the antec 920 khuler --
> i am thinking of putting Windows 8 - should work out the box ?
> most likely get this all together by next year - depends when i get the board - from amazon - hoping to get the latest board version -


The Z77X-UD5H has Windows 8 support so if you have any issues you can email Gigabyte


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Did you turn on speedstep (EIST) and C1,C1E?
> *Also need to be balanced power setting in Windows.*
> The Z77X-UD5H has Windows 8 support so if you have any issues you can email Gigabyte


bold added by me.

I have my power setting set to performance (never turn anything off/put to sleep) and my cpu downclocks perfectly using offset.


----------



## expresso

i hope i dont have to use there support - good luck trying to understand what they say on the phone -

i have a hard time when someone cant speak english well and talks low -

dont mean anything by that - just hard to understand -

i hope it goes smooth - emailing would takes weeks - going back and forth

last time i emailed them - i got a email back fast but never tried to help me - - just said - update bios -

really - thats the answer to everything ?? i like to talk to someone to ask questions - and i did - just couldnt understand his accent -

i hope next time around i wont need support - !!!


----------



## expresso

is there a section with OC settings for the UD5H board and 3770k ?

i like to OC it to at least about 4.5 stable - need step by step in the Bios for that - what ever needs to be adjusted etc, -

is there a OC guide done up for users like me who dont know all the ins and outs to follow ?

thanks -


----------



## DeXel

www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## expresso

thanks -- i hope i can find some OC templates to follow


----------



## rsvette12

Hi Guys:

Having a problem in bios using version f14 I an trying to up the cpu clock ratio but it wont let me never seen this before this is a new build z77x-ud5wf - how can I unlock it ? running i7-2700k

also what should these be set to

limit cpuid maximum ?
cpu thermal (off or on)
xmp profile on or profile 1
Turbo boost ?

Thnks so much.

Regards, Rich


----------



## DeXel

Type the value or use page up/down...


----------



## rsvette12

Hi Dex:

I will try that any ideas on the other settings buddy, thanks so much you guys are the best at this









Regards, Rich


----------



## DeXel

You don't really need to touch those. Just disable turbo boost since it will interfere with the multiplier.

VCore, LLC, and multiplier should get you where you want.


----------



## spera

hello, turn off the computer today and not finish it off showing 05 stayed in the debug LED, I had to reboot and then enter windows and turn off someone happened?,,, sometimes when I turn it does not light stays in a2, I have to restart with the button and lights, strange no?


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You don't really need to touch those. Just disable turbo boost since it will interfere with the multiplier.
> 
> VCore, LLC, and multiplier should get you where you want.


I disagree with turning off Turbo Boost, and I suspect most people here do too (but please chime in). It doesn't "interfere" with the multiplier; for example, when I start rendering out an HD video project from Adobe Premiere Pro CS6, the CPU instantly throttles up to my full overclocked speed of 4.4 GHz. Meanwhile, when the system is idling, it goes back to stock speed -- saving power as well as CPU life.


----------



## DeXel

So it does when turbo boost is disabled, but EIST enabled. If you set multiplier to 44, but leave turbo boost at stock (~38), the max frequency will be limited to 38. For this reason it interferes, but I tested this back in early days, so unless it's difference now...

He can simply set turbo = to multiplier, but it's extra works with the same results.


----------



## Sin0822

You can just leave turbo on auto, but changes from BIOS to BIOS vary thus i recommend people disable it, it is easiest. Also with it disabled current and watts are maxed out automatically. Messing with the turbo mode is for people who want to get more advanced with it, and like for someone who wants to limit the current and watts, I talked to an intel dude and he actually was saying that some people want to limit those things while overclocking, i really didn't know what to say to that.

but yea either way your OC is through turbo multipliers, whether or not you disable or don't the turbo mode features listed the outcome is usually the same.


----------



## rsvette12

Thanks Guys as always info provided is second to none, thank you.


----------



## JMatzelle3

What Debug code shows on the display on the board that means everything is good. Is there a code or does it not show anything?


----------



## UNOE

Just got a UD5H. I really like it. Got my 8GB of Samsung Ram to 10-10-10-28 1t @ 2200mhz

Any Bios profiles I can try out ?


----------



## NigmanB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> What Debug code shows on the display on the board that means everything is good. Is there a code or does it not show anything?


I think is A0


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NigmanB*
> 
> I think is A0


Would that mean everything is ok and will always show A0 -- ?

i had a AMD board before and thats what it showed all the time - in the manual it says IDE initialization started - but thats it -

i always wondered if that was ok -


----------



## spera

that is 05 debug LED, not in the manual, I can not turn off yesterday and remained so


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Would that mean everything is ok and will always show A0 -- ?
> i had a AMD board before and thats what it showed all the time - in the manual it says IDE initialization started - but thats it -
> i always wondered if that was ok -


I already answered this for you here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/4260#post_18819399


----------



## NigmanB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Would that mean everything is ok and will always show A0 -- ?
> i had a AMD board before and thats what it showed all the time - in the manual it says IDE initialization started - but thats it -
> i always wondered if that was ok -


Well, i was worried about the a0 at first too (IDE initialization started) , but searching in others forums and here, i find that is the normal that a0 is the code posting

This is one of the answers i find here
*
this is a quote from Sin0822 from XS forum.

"A0 isn't an error code. lol, it is the code you are supposed to see while you are in windows, if you aren't in windows and it hows A0, then most likely your GPU isn't working or you are plugged into the wrong output.

My board shows A0 also."
*

here the link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1259334/official-gigabyte-g1-sniper-3-m3-owners-thread-club/60#post_17402686

and this one from a msi forum

The A0 debug display had also worried some German users.
When I asked the answer from MSI tech support was as follows:
"it is normal that the code A0 in normal operation,please do not worry about it,this is the default display in this motherboard"
In a later beta bios the display was changed from A0 to CPU temperature without noted this in the changelog.

Source: http://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=160047.msg1173369#msg1173369

pd: sorry for my english


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I already answered this for you here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/4260#post_18819399


thanks - i missed it --

ok thats one thing i know now for my new board - its a UD5H - i am guessing it should show the same Code if all is good -


----------



## jinxjx

Hi there, Im thinking about getting the gigabyte z77x ud3h. Does anyone know how the VIA VT2021 onboard sound is?....thanks


----------



## stasio

Be sure guys you get UD5H,UD3H & D3H revision 1.1.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Be sure guys you get UD5H,UD3H & D3H revision 1.1.


y ?


----------



## expresso

i just ordered a UD5 - from amazon - its on back order - out of stock right now -

what is the difference between the Versions ? 1.0 and 1.1

i hope i get the latest version but if i dont - then what ?


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i just ordered a UD5 - from amazon - its on back order - out of stock right now -
> what is the difference between the Versions ? 1.0 and 1.1
> i hope i get the latest version but if i dont - then what ?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/4160


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/4160


Basically other OS Audio support that's all I'm seeing ?


----------



## Sin0822

i don't think rev 1.1 UD5H or UD3h is available in the USA yet.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i don't think rev 1.1 UD5H or UD3h is available in the USA yet.


oh well then that sucks for me - i am waiting on my UD5 - it out of stock on amazon - i was hoping because of the change - i might get the 1.1 version -

i guess then i wont - what should i do if i get the 1.0 version ? is that going to be bad in some way ? how can i assure i get the 1.1 version even if i get the 1.0 version and return it to amazon for exchange - theres no way to know or make sure to get the newer version - so i am stuck with it when it arrives and hope it works ?

what would you do in my case ?


----------



## Sin0822

well there really isn't that big of a difference, the two boards run off the same BIOS.

the only big difference is the second NIC, on the rev 1.0 the audio is pretty amazing as it is, i guess if you are using windows.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> well there really isn't that big of a difference, the two boards run off the same BIOS.
> the only big difference is the second NIC, on the rev 1.0 the audio is pretty amazing as it is, i guess if you are using windows.


the board i picked has two NIC also - so dont know what the difference is with the new version -

i dont care either way - right now - i just want it and get it going already - i just got my 3770k in the mail and memory - just waiting on the board now -

i hope i feel a difference from the short time i spent with the AMD A10 which felt nice while it lasted - dont know if it was the Chip or Board or cooler etc, with that setup -

i have a new antec in box 920 waiting also


----------



## Sugita2Junko

I bought from newegg last month and my UH5H was rev 1.1


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i don't think rev 1.1 UD5H or UD3h is available in the USA yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sugita2Junko*
> 
> I bought from newegg last month and my UH5H was rev 1.1


----------



## expresso

cool - i hope i get the new version also - but if i dont - i just hope it works - period -









i am ready to give it another go at it -

i think i will just install Win 8 - hope it works and be done with it -


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> UD3H never had problems with Linux audio to begin with.


This I can confirm.

The problem is the VIA VL800 hub on Linux (Debian, Fedora) causes lockup.

I noticed version 1.1 has the colorful front panel connectors.

Version 1.0: http://www.gigabyte.com/fileupload/product/2/4153/5766_big.jpg
Version 1.1: http://www.gigabyte.com/fileupload/product/2/4441/7255_big.jpg

Comparison via Gigabyte shows nothing: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/comparison/list.aspx?ck=2&pids=4153,4441

Kind of want the UP5-TH because of IR3550 PowIRstage, but Haswell is coming soon so prices may be lower then. Need an excuse to try to clock my i5 faster.


----------



## Kyronn94

Hello,

Just want to ask a quick question, is anyone using a GA-Z77MX-D3H with a D14?

Changing to intel for christmas, and want to know if I should have any problems using a graphics card in the top slot and a D14 on the CPU.
The noctua website lists the board as compatible, but I'm not so sure.

Also, thoughts on the board in general?
I'm choosing it over the P8z77m (pro) as it seems to be very similar but is about £20 cheaper.

Many thanks.


----------



## frag85

Purchased 1 month ago (11/18/12), my UD3H from MicroCenter is a 1.0.

So the issue was the on-board sound?


----------



## DeXel

No issues with onboard sound on UD3H, just UD5H under Linux.

By reports it is fixed on later rev 1.0 UD5H boards, so the issue is really only on early boards that early adopters got like me. And I don't really care since I am going to get a dedicated dac/sound card, and don't use Linux much.

Rev 1.1 only has updated Atheros LAN controller. The old one works well for me, so...? Doesn't really matter which one you get.


----------



## MakubeX

I received my UD5H yesterday from Newegg and it's v1.1.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*


yea i just confirmed today that most all online should have rev 1.1 in. I am just going on what my rep told me. she said that big etailers move shipments really quickly and thus most likely have rev 1.1, as that is what is being made.


----------



## Deeya

Quick question, I bought a UD5H back in October for a new build, I've sort of run into an issue. When starting up my PC it will hang on the Gigabyte splash screen until a key is pressed. Doesn't matter which unless it's bound to an action such as Del for entering BIOS, etc.. but hitting a letter, number, arrow keys, etc it will finally boot into windows.

Anyone have any idea what would be causing this?

Forgot to add, it's revision 1.1 running F14 BIOS.


----------



## jprovido

I was just playing around with the settings on my ud3h board and for some reason after disabling "Full Logo" during boot up my motherboard won't boot anymore(it is the latest beta bios so not surprised with the weird bugs). no biggie tho coz my board has a bios switch. switched to the second bios and I was able to boot no problem.

in case something like this might happen again I want the same security I had before. how can I fix the one that doesn't boot anymore? I want to reflash it with a working bios again. TIA OCN

edit: btw I tried the reset cmos button on my motherboard. it does nothing


----------



## mandrix

If you are on the backup bios, then while booting keep spamming CTRL + F10 to flash the main bios the same as the backup bios.
To flash the backup bios the same as main, then use Alt + F10.

You will know if it works or not. Sometimes you might have to reboot a few times to get it to recognize the commands.


----------



## Alvarez

Are we overclocking in z77 ud5 like other boards or overclocking 3770k directly ? I am planning to buy z77ud5h like people recommended it but i cant find any guide specific for OC

Best Regards


----------



## Sin0822

here:
uses ud5h: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end
uses up7, but same things apply: http://www.overclock.net/t/1339714/z77x-up7-performance-review-and-cpu-memory-overclocking-guide

The second has some videos like this:


----------



## Alvarez

Thanks for info !


----------



## DownshiftArtist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> Quick question, I bought a UD5H back in October for a new build, I've sort of run into an issue. When starting up my PC it will hang on the Gigabyte splash screen until a key is pressed. Doesn't matter which unless it's bound to an action such as Del for entering BIOS, etc.. but hitting a letter, number, arrow keys, etc it will finally boot into windows.
> Anyone have any idea what would be causing this?
> Forgot to add, it's revision 1.1 running F14 BIOS.


I'm not 100% sure since I don't have my UD5H yet, but I've always used Gigabyte boards. That being said, have you checked your bios settings to make sure there isn't anything selected for "Halt on..."? i.e. "Halt on keyboard" or something to that effect. Just an idea


----------



## crashdummy35

So what is the budget version of this board: GA-Z77X-UP4.

I'll finally be upgrading around X-Mas and I'm not at all familiar/knowledgeable with a lot of these features. Like ThunderBolt, don't know what it is and doubt I'd ever use it. But I do know I want an Ultra Durable mobo, no question there. Looking to pair it with an i5-3570K and 1 card, my GTX 660. Just a basic gaming build I can oc a bit on (not going to crazy clock-wise) and have it _work_...nothing more.

Is this the one: GA-Z77X-UD3H?


----------



## Deeya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DownshiftArtist*
> 
> I'm not 100% sure since I don't have my UD5H yet, but I've always used Gigabyte boards. That being said, have you checked your bios settings to make sure there isn't anything selected for "Halt on..."? i.e. "Halt on keyboard" or something to that effect. Just an idea


Tried looking for a similar named setting and couldn't find it, so I reset CMOS and it is still occurring. I found something somewhere else that said sometimes connecting USB 2.0 devices to the 3.0 ports on the backed caused issues, but even with my KB/Mouse connected to the 2.0 ports, the problem is still happening.

Boot won't go past the gigabyte spash screen until a key is pressed.


----------



## stayinsync

mSATA question. Before I update the UD5H BIOS as a possible fix, is there any reason why Win7 install attempt on mSATA (256gb) would fail due to "Windows cannot be installed on the xxx selected.." I'm trying to install UEFI Windows 7 64 ultimate from a USB to a Mushkin Atlas 256gb mSATA borrowed from my laptop (just wanted to try OS install on the UD5H mSATA port). UD5H BIOS can see the drive fine. I have no other drives connected. My understanding is this mSATA port can hold the boot drive, although I realize it would be limited to SATA2 speeds. If the Atlas is working fine (I can install OS on another drive and later verify that), what else could this be, a BIOS setting needing to be changed? Not a clue what to check next if the drive itself is fine.


----------



## DeXel

Did you followed this guide to get UEFI flash installer working properly?
Quote:


> Your USB drive must also contain the directory and file: "*:\efi\boot\bootx64.efi" (* is the drive letter of your USB key that holds the Windows 7 installation files). This is the ".efi" installation boot loader extension. If you do not have this directory or file on your USB drive this is how you create it:
> 
> First, create a new directory called boot inside the "efi" folder on the USB.
> You will then need to copy all of the files from the "*:\efi\microsoft\boot" directory into the directory you just created ("*:\efi\boot").
> Next, use 7-Zip to open the archive located at: "*:\sources\install.wim."
> Inside the archive, find the file located in folder "1\Windows\boot\efi\bootmgfw.efi."
> Copy this file to "*:\EFI\Boot\" location you created earlier. (Not in the 7-zip) (This file is also available from any current windows 7 installation. It is located in the "C:\Windows\Boot\EFI" folder.)
> After copying the file to the "*:\efi\boot" directory, rename the file in "*:\EFI\Boot\bootmgfw.efi" to "bootx64.efi". You should now have an EFI boot loader folder for Windows called *:\efi\boot\" with all of the files copied from the "*:\efi\microsoft\boot" folder and the newly named "bootx64.efi."
> Your install media (DVD/USB) must be inserted into your PC prior to powering it up. This will allow your UEFI to register your device (DVD/USB drive) as a UEFI boot enabled device.


----------



## stayinsync

Thanks, yes, I'm using the same UEFI installer usb drive I've used numerous times in the past (created via info posted on a Lenovo T530 forum). I've also just now installed a Samsung 830 SSD and get the same msg, namely, "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. This computer's hardware may not support booting to this disk. Ensure the disks controller is enabled." I just updated to F14 BIOS. Same result. Tried a different usb installer (with same files on it) that has also worked fine previously. Same result.

Anyone have any suggestions of what to check next? Frustrating, as I had no apparent hiccups with the build. Only when I got to OS install. Doesn't like any disk at all. Is this a uefi installer issue? The \boot\efi directory is set up correctly (as per above post). Worked fine on asus z68 pro.


----------



## Kyronn94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> Hello,
> Just want to ask a quick question, is anyone using a GA-Z77MX-D3H with a D14?
> Changing to intel for christmas, and want to know if I should have any problems using a graphics card in the top slot and a D14 on the CPU.
> The noctua website lists the board as compatible, but I'm not so sure.
> Also, thoughts on the board in general?
> I'm choosing it over the P8z77m (pro) as it seems to be very similar but is about £20 cheaper.
> Many thanks.


Can I get a bump on this post please?









Many thanks.


----------



## DeXel

Assuming that GA-Z77MX-D3H has the same socket location as UD5H, it either be a tight fit, or NH-D14's fan mounts will touch the GPU.


----------



## MakubeX

Well this is disappointing. My UD5H board is brand new, just installed it like 2 days ago, I haven't even overclocked anything yet and today I come home, boot up my PC and I get this error message saying that the BIOS is corrupted and it will boot from the backup BIOS.


----------



## GreenNeon

Hmmm, I just bought the U3H and I must say, it's a very nice board.
What software/utilities should I install from the DVD? Once again, this is on the Z77X-U3H.
Cheers!


----------



## CiTRxJ

So I'm trying to figure out how to hook up my fans to the motherboard. I have all 3-pin fans and I know the motherboard is capable of voltage control, but so far I can only get voltage control out of SYS_FAN1. Am I correct in thinking that SYS_FAN2 and SYS_FAN3 cannot output voltage control? The motherboard lists SYS_FAN3 as identical to SYS_FAN1 but I only get 100% out on that.

Secondly, does anyone know what the maximum power rating is for one of these headers? I want to hook up all four of my fans to the first header, but that's 3 high cfm slipstreams and a 200mm fan. I'm afraid the current draw with those fans at full would easily be past 1A, maybe 2A (each slipstream draws half an amp I believe). Which means a total power draw of 24W on a single header... too much?

EDIT: Forgot to list the model.. GA-Z77X-D3H


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreenNeon*
> 
> Hmmm, I just bought the U3H and I must say, it's a very nice board.
> What software/utilities should I install from the DVD? Once again, this is on the Z77X-U3H.
> Cheers!


Just drivers, and maybe Gigabyte Tweak launcher if you want to overclock that way. For fan control use SpeedFan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiTRxJ*
> 
> So I'm trying to figure out how to hook up my fans to the motherboard. I have all 3-pin fans and I know the motherboard is capable of voltage control, but so far I can only get voltage control out of SYS_FAN1. Am I correct in thinking that SYS_FAN2 and SYS_FAN3 cannot output voltage control? The motherboard lists SYS_FAN3 as identical to SYS_FAN1 but I only get 100% out on that.
> Secondly, does anyone know what the maximum power rating is for one of these headers? I want to hook up all four of my fans to the first header, but that's 3 high cfm slipstreams and a 200mm fan. I'm afraid the current draw with those fans at full would easily be past 1A, maybe 2A (each slipstream draws half an amp I believe). Which means a total power draw of 24W on a single header... too much?


Only 1 or 2 headers support voltage control depending on a board model, unless you got G1 Sniper 3 or UP7.

Maximum per header is 1A from what I remember.


----------



## cab2

Anybody with a Kill-A-Watt, can you post how many Watts your UD5H uses with shut OFF?!


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stayinsync*
> 
> Thanks, yes, I'm using the same UEFI installer usb drive I've used numerous times in the past (created via info posted on a Lenovo T530 forum). I've also just now installed a Samsung 830 SSD and get the same msg, namely, "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. This computer's hardware may not support booting to this disk. Ensure the disks controller is enabled." I just updated to F14 BIOS. Same result. Tried a different usb installer (with same files on it) that has also worked fine previously. Same result.
> Anyone have any suggestions of what to check next? Frustrating, as I had no apparent hiccups with the build. Only when I got to OS install. Doesn't like any disk at all. Is this a uefi installer issue? The \boot\efi directory is set up correctly (as per above post). Worked fine on asus z68 pro.


I had a samsung 830 and tried usb windows install. Same issue. Gave up and just used a DVD drive.


----------



## GreenNeon

Hi again, I have a quick question. I want to install Lucid MVP, but when I go to install the software it says that it has failed to detect the integrated controller. Why would this be happening, do I need to activate a setting in the BIOS? Z77X-D3H + 3770K

Edit: Nvm, didn't realise you had to install a display driver for the iGPU...


----------



## DeXel

Yep, you need to enable iGPU in UEFI. It's under Peripherals -> Integrated Graphics.


----------



## Alvarez

I listened you and bought a Gigabyte Z77UD5H, the mobo and BIOS looks great, i still need to learn Ivy Bridge system tough, but thank you for recommending me Gigabyte once again !

(I would be happier if my WC loop wasn't screwed, anyway)

Cheers !


----------



## fasty

For information,

New BIOS F15o is out for Z77X-UD5H ("Improve LAN Compatibility")

Thanks to stasio over at Tweaktown forums.


----------



## LuckyCharm

Hello, I own a UD5H with F14 Bios. I recently upgraded to Windows 8 and have gotten a 04 or D4 debeg led. I am not shure whether it is a D4 or O4. I have restarted my pc several times but it still appears after the normal AO code. Another possible cause of led is that I also recently broke a pin on a usb 3 header on the mobo. I don't want to rma because of a single broken pin [there is another usb 3 header anyways]. Could Windows upgrade or broken pin be the problem?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyCharm*
> 
> Hello, I own a UD5H with F14 Bios. I recently upgraded to Windows 8 and have gotten a 04 or D4 debeg led. I am not shure whether it is a D4 or O4. I have restarted my pc several times but it still appears after the normal AO code. Another possible cause of led is that I also recently broke a pin on a usb 3 header on the mobo. I don't want to rma because of a single broken pin [there is another usb 3 header anyways]. Could Windows upgrade or broken pin be the problem?


D4
PCI resource allocation error. Out of Resources.

this is what the manual says for this code - not sure what it means or what you need to do to get rid of it -

are you using a video card - or something in the PCI slot ?

one way to find out if you feel up to it - maybe reinstall windows and see if it goes away -

wish i could be of more help - hopefully someone else with better know how - can help you figure it out -


----------



## MakubeX

Loving this board so far.


----------



## GreenNeon

@MakubeX - what is that blue dialog box with the core temps called?


----------



## MakubeX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreenNeon*
> 
> @MakubeX - what is that blue dialog box with the core temps called?


That's Aida64's sensor panel.


----------



## twitchyzero

Just reinstalled fresh OS win 7 x64 on UD5H BIOS F14
I'd like to know which SATA/AHCI drivers I need (i dont use raid or SSD caching)

- Intel SATA Preinstall driver
(For AHCI / RAID Mode)

- Marvell Preinstall Driver

- Marvell SATA Controller Driver

- Marvell Storage Utility

Do I need these last 2 if I just want normal operations and not take advantage of any of the extra features?

Also, I haven't installed BT drivers but I already have the following older version in device manager

BT Radios
- Generic BT Adapter
- Microsoft BT enumerator

Network adapters
BT Device (Personal Area Network)
BT Device (RFCOMM protocol TDI)

Should I go ahead and uninstall these before I install the new one?


----------



## tvm777

Any UD5H owner having problems with 5.1 sound in windows 8?
I cant hear it properly
i mean its 5.1 sound, but only center speaker sound loud, others sound very low








any suggestion?


----------



## JRG

My UD3H is bios F17. Would it be worth it to update to F18? Only change was "update CPU microcode" according to the Gigabyte website. Not sure if that's important.


----------



## DeXel

If it works for you, no reason to upgrade.

I personally try all new versions, including beta ones. And you can always downgrade, so there is no risk of being stuck with an inferior version.

Dual bios also minimizes the risk of failures, so try it yourself.


----------



## expresso

On the UD5 board -

how does the dual bios work - in the event system crashes - does it automatically switch over to the back up bios and then restores the main bios ?

Do you have to use the bios switch or does it do it automatically ?

i my computer would be in a area where it would be hard to reach and open up to do that - so was hoping it works automatically -


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Just reinstalled fresh OS win 7 x64 on UD5H BIOS F14
> I'd like to know which SATA/AHCI drivers I need (i dont use raid or SSD caching)
> - Intel SATA Preinstall driver
> (For AHCI / RAID Mode)
> - Marvell Preinstall Driver
> - Marvell SATA Controller Driver
> - Marvell Storage Utility
> Do I need these last 2 if I just want normal operations and not take advantage of any of the extra features?
> Also, I haven't installed BT drivers but I already have the following older version in device manager
> BT Radios
> - Generic BT Adapter
> - Microsoft BT enumerator
> Network adapters
> BT Device (Personal Area Network)
> BT Device (RFCOMM protocol TDI)
> Should I go ahead and uninstall these before I install the new one?


You don't need any of those preinstall drivers, and definitely don't install the Marvell drivers. Windows has drivers that will handle SATA drives better than the clunky Marvell ones.
I'm running SATA III drives on the Intel and Marvell headers with no "extra" drivers installed. Basically I install the chipset drivers, USB 3.0, LAN drivers, Intel MEI and whatever drivers you need for various devices. Won't hurt to install Intel IRST but sounds like you won't need it.

For bluetooth I know nothing about it.


----------



## MakubeX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> On the UD5 board -
> how does the dual bios work - in the event system crashes - does it automatically switch over to the back up bios and then restores the main bios ?
> Do you have to use the bios switch or does it do it automatically ?
> i my computer would be in a area where it would be hard to reach and open up to do that - so was hoping it works automatically -


I think it does because one time when I booted I got a message saying "BIOS corrupted, switching to backup" or something along those lines. That said, after rebooting and going into the BIOS again I was back in the primary BIOS except it had reset to defaults.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> On the UD5 board -
> how does the dual bios work - in the event system crashes - does it automatically switch over to the back up bios and then restores the main bios ?
> Do you have to use the bios switch or does it do it automatically ?
> i my computer would be in a area where it would be hard to reach and open up to do that - so was hoping it works automatically -


(sorry for double post, missed this one)

The switch is there in case you have problems with one bios you can easily switch over to the other one. Sometimes when one gets corrupted, the board will use the other bios, but it's not a sure thing. You can shut down, throw the switch then restart.
Often people find that having both bios with the same version (once you get everything running like you want it) to be more trouble free.
To flash the back up bios same as the main bios hit Alt + F10 while booting. (manual switch must be on main bios)
To flash the main bios from the backup bios hit Ctrl + F10 while booting. (manual switch must be on second/backup bios)

It's not so much as there is a "main" and "backup" bios, as that there are two separate bios and the board may try to use the whichever bios the switch is not set for in case of corruption of the current bios.
The position the switch is in makes no difference other than to select whichever bios you prefer to use.

Hope that makes sense, still on first cuppa coffee.


----------



## Georgey123

Hey guys, quick question. I had a z77x ud3h board and I have been experiencing boot loops from a cold start and also waking the computer up from sleep. I've flashed to the latest bios from the gigabyte website but it still seems to suffer the same problem. My specs are bellow and any help would be fantastic


----------



## expresso

yeah it makes sense - i was just wondering - because in my case - my computer will be under my desk once i get it up and running - i wont be able to easily open it up to do anything once its in place

i just want to use it - so if it would do it automactilly if in the event i play around with OC and it fails - i am not looking to open the case and do anything - i am hoping it will fix itself - and boot from the good bios -

i will leave them as they are - and just save a profile of what ever OC i end up with - if it does reset to stock defaults - i can just go back in and pick the profile which worked or start over i guess -

by default - it would be switched to the Main bios ? for example - if i wanted to update the bios to latest version at some point - how would it know which one it is updating - ? i would have to make sure the switch is on Main before updating ?

and then just leave the backup bios alone - is that correct - i am trying to understand better before i get this board and put it together -

i know this has be answered before - and i cant seem to find it now - i read somewhere here - if i just wanted a safe simple easy OC of 4.2 - do i need to adjust volts etc, manually or just leave everything on Auto - and just change to 42 -

i seen the video doing it to 4.5 etc. but if i can run it at 4.2 with no increase in volts etc, - to keep heat down and temps - that my be a good start for me - i really dont care to run benchmarks etc, just a little bump is fine for me - its going to be 24/7 everyday computer - my concern is my Room is very hot - i say about 80 to 85 F - -

summer is better because i use the AC - unless 4.5 gives me good temps idle and load etc, - i wont mind

thanks -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You don't need any of those preinstall drivers, and definitely don't install the Marvell drivers. Windows has drivers that will handle SATA drives better than the clunky Marvell ones.
> I'm running SATA III drives on the Intel and Marvell headers with no "extra" drivers installed. Basically I install the chipset drivers, USB 3.0, LAN drivers, Intel MEI and whatever drivers you need for various devices. Won't hurt to install Intel IRST but sounds like you won't need it.
> For bluetooth I know nothing about it.


I never did anything and just installed Win 7 64 and it did all the drivers etc, - i had a ton of windows update - but in the end - it was ACHI in the bios - and in windows etc, i didnt pick anything other than just put the disk in and let it install as always

i am new to SSD also - and i am not going to stress myself with all the little adjustments or watch about reading and writing to it - i will use it as i always use my computer and when its done - hopefully over 5 years - most likely do a new computer by then anyway -

i mean i watch out about doing anything if i can - but not going to feel scared to use it because its going to wear out or something - its fast enough - not to notice any difference anyway - at least i hope

i guess i will find out - besides not to defrag it - i really dont know what else i can do - i have the OCZ vertex 4 - i figure its advanced enough to take care of itself -


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question. I had a z77x ud3h board and I have been experiencing boot loops from a cold start and also waking the computer up from sleep. I've flashed to the latest bios from the gigabyte website but it still seems to suffer the same problem. My specs are bellow and any help would be fantastic


Boot loops on these boards usually only happen with unstable OCs. I see your CPU is overclocked, so try to see if the same thing happens on stock.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Boot loops on these boards usually only happen with unstable OCs. I see your CPU is overclocked, so try to see if the same thing happens on stock.


Cheers for the reply. Even at stock clocks when I first purchased the board it would continue to boot loop so that's why I'm a little puzzled. I had a z68a d3h board before and I did not suffer any boot loops from the board either. Cheers


----------



## barkeater

Yeah, like DeXel said, if your having issues, got back to stock and test. If still having issues, update the bios and see if that takes care of it. I always think it's a little funny when someone posts that there are experiencing issues (i.e., instability) and they are running an OC. I know how I hate to go back to stock with my bad a$$ k chip, but if your boot looping or whatever, you have to find out what the issue is by starting at the beginning.


----------



## CiTRxJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Just drivers, and maybe Gigabyte Tweak launcher if you want to overclock that way. For fan control use SpeedFan.
> Only 1 or 2 headers support voltage control depending on a board model, unless you got G1 Sniper 3 or UP7.
> Maximum per header is 1A from what I remember.


That's a shame... the cheapest automatic fan controller I know of is at least another $20. I wish I could run all my fans off the motherboard.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgey123*
> 
> Cheers for the reply. Even at stock clocks when I first purchased the board it would continue to boot loop so that's why I'm a little puzzled. I had a z68a d3h board before and I did not suffer any boot loops from the board either. Cheers


Your board is either defective, or you have something incompatible. Most likely RAM, but try to remove your GTX 670 and see if it works with iGPU.

If you are running an old BIOS, update since early versions didn't like Sandy Bridge CPUs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiTRxJ*
> 
> That's a shame... the cheapest automatic fan controller I know of is at least another $20. I wish I could run all my fans off the motherboard.


That's unfortunately the only disadvantage of GB Z77 boards. Asus allows better fan control on their boards; however, CPU header on some of their boards allows only PWM.


----------



## stasio

UD5H-F15p is out.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Your board is either defective, or you have something incompatible. Most likely RAM, but try to remove your GTX 670 and see if it works with iGPU.
> If you are running an old BIOS, update since early versions didn't like Sandy Bridge CPUs
> 
> 
> 
> Correct, the 2600K had issues with this board at the start but I am running the latest bios now. Ill give the GPU a go as well. It did boot loop this morning after a cold boot with the GPU still in. Cheers for your help
Click to expand...


----------



## eBombzor

Quick question, is the POST LED number thing necessary? I don't know if I should buy the UD3H (with LED) or the D3H (w/out LED). I'm kinda limited on budget so saving $$ is key here, but I hate to have a DOA component I can't figure out.


----------



## DeXel

Makes troubleshooting easier, but otherwise no.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Makes troubleshooting easier, but otherwise no.


How would you troubleshoot w/out a POST LED thing for CPU / mobo / RAM / GPU / etc?


----------



## DeXel

With post indicator you usually get an idea where to start. Without it, beep noises might help you to figure out where to start. Otherwise, it's try and error approach.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiTRxJ*
> 
> That's a shame... the cheapest automatic fan controller I know of is at least another $20. I wish I could run all my fans off the motherboard.


still cheaper than getting all pwm fans. I still think the best way to go is get a fan controller with pwm functionality (as well as voltage) as then this device could follow along from build to build.

I like this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995075


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Boot loops on these boards usually only happen with unstable OCs. I see your CPU is overclocked, so try to see if the same thing happens on stock.


It seems to happen if you populate the VIA VL800 ports on the UD3H and boot into non-Windows or Windows 7 without the VIA drivers too


----------



## Gravik

Thinking about getting this board.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz77xd3h

Good for overclocking?


----------



## DeXel

Decent, but with current prices it doesn't make sense getting Z77X-D3H over UD3H.

Z77X-D3H should cost around $130 max to be a good buy. It was $99 after rebate on black friday.


----------



## Sin0822

yea get the UD3H....


----------



## WhiteRice

Has there been any discussion on the lackluster bluetooth drivers for the UP5?


----------



## Gravik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Decent, but with current prices it doesn't make sense getting Z77X-D3H over UD3H.
> Z77X-D3H should cost around $130 max to be a good buy. It was $99 after rebate on black friday.


Alright. Is that a good one for overclocking?


----------



## DeXel

Definitely.


----------



## Gravik

Alright sweet. Best Buy has it for $119 right now compared to Newegg's $152


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Trying to use DVID voltage offset to lower my CPU load voltage, but doing so also lowers my idle voltage which makes application crash since it is too low.

Is it possible to have offset only for load?


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sugita2Junko*
> 
> Trying to use DVID voltage offset to lower my CPU load voltage, but doing so also lowers my idle voltage which makes application crash since it is too low.
> Is it possible to have offset only for load?


no.


----------



## Vitaminx

I recently purchased the UP5 TH and was wondering what your thoughts are on PS/2 connections on motherboards in this day and age. Reason I'm asking is because I currently use a mechanical keyboard with a PS/2 connector on the cable rather than USB. I know that the UP5 TH doesn't have any PS/2 connectors on it like other boards. My question is simple: Do you think the day when PS/2 ruled over USB is over? I just want to be sure I made the right choice in choosing the UP5 TH as opposed to the UP4 TH (Which has the PS/2 connector).


----------



## expresso

I am no expert about the PS2 or usb port for keyboard or mouse - but i have to say i havnt used that PS2 port for the past 6 years -

all my keyboards have been USB for a long time - mouse also - USB wireless logitech - all worked great on USB -

i would use them in the 2.0 ports if you have those - i would think if its not on the board - should be safe bet that it should work fine and its not needed -

i understand how you feel being concerned - because if something goes wrong and cant move around in the bios etc, with keyboard - that would suck -

i installed Win 7 recently on a new board with USB Keyboard and mouse and had no issues - was able to use them both - but had my PS2 adapter ready just in case







never needed it -

i would say you should be fine - look into it further if its a concern - to be sure


----------



## Snakes

Can someone tell me which USB port(s) on the UD5H are high powered, if any, that will charge an iPad 4 which does not normally charge via USB? I think I read that one of the headers is, I was wondering if any of the ports on the back are as well. I checked the manual but couldn't manage to figure it out. Thanks.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Can someone tell me which USB port(s) on the UD5H are high powered, if any, that will charge an iPad 4 which does not normally charge via USB? I think I read that one of the headers is, I was wondering if any of the ports on the back are as well. I checked the manual but couldn't manage to figure it out. Thanks.


It's the red-colored one, if you wanna use USB2, or *any* USB3. They're all powered even when the machine in suspended.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> It's the red-colored one, if you wanna use USB2, or *any* USB3. They're all powered even when the machine in suspended.


Thanks. It's not charging on the USB 3.0 port and it's not convenient for me to use the headers so I guess I'll just have to charge it via the AC adapter. Pretty inconvenient of Apple to come up with this thing that doesn't charge via regular USB.


----------



## eBombzor

How do you turn on your PC w/out a case or on-board buttons? I bought a Gigabyte Z77-D3H and it has no buttons on it but my case is coming 2 weeks from now.

Help!


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> How do you turn on your PC w/out a case or on-board buttons? I bought a Gigabyte Z77-D3H and it has no buttons on it but my case is coming 2 weeks from now.
> 
> Help!


Short the two pins on the motherboard with a metal object (Dont touch the motherboard itself and make sure you short the proper pins on the motherboard - The PC will turn on when the pins been short - No, its not "dangerous" for the motherboard or yourself, you are just doing what the power-button does, manually.

EDIT:

Video (Not mine):



Toms: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/284272-13-power-case-switch-button


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gomi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> How do you turn on your PC w/out a case or on-board buttons? I bought a Gigabyte Z77-D3H and it has no buttons on it but my case is coming 2 weeks from now.
> 
> Help!
> 
> 
> 
> Short the two pins on the motherboard with a metal object (Dont touch the motherboard itself and make sure you short the proper pins on the motherboard - The PC will turn on when the pins been short - No, its not "dangerous" for the motherboard or yourself, you are just doing what the power-button does, manually.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Video (Not mine):
> 
> 
> 
> Toms: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/284272-13-power-case-switch-button
Click to expand...

Ok thanks but when holding a mobo, where should i hold it? Is it bad to touch the mobo PCB or the soldered metal?


----------



## Gravik

Gonna be picking up a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H mobo tomorrow.


----------



## eBombzor

Woot! Got my Z77-D3H!

Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1342583/build-log-800-light-gaming-silent-build-nanoxia-ds1/0_100


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Can someone tell me which USB port(s) on the UD5H are high powered, if any, that will charge an iPad 4 which does not normally charge via USB? I think I read that one of the headers is, I was wondering if any of the ports on the back are as well. I checked the manual but couldn't manage to figure it out. Thanks.


Holy voice from the past. How's it going snakes? remember you from back during the summer when everyone was still trying to figure these boards out.


----------



## Gravik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Woot! Got my Z77-D3H!
> 
> Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1342583/build-log-800-light-gaming-silent-build-nanoxia-ds1/0_100


Nice. I'm ordering mine later today.


----------



## heptadragon

I'm curious if anyone has used (or tried to use) a Zalman CNPS12X in conjunction with the UD5H. I'm planning on purchasing the UD5H for a Deus Ex-themed build. I haven't settled on a heatsink yet but I liked what I saw of the CNPS12X and it fits the theme relatively well IMO. If someone has used it, I'd be interested in RAM recommendations for use with it - currently looking at the G.Skill Ares 16GB kit (F3-1600C8Q-16GAB). I was originally looking at a Ripjaws X 16GB kit but I figured the heatsinks would be too tall - from what I can tell the Ares kit will fit just fine?

I'm also interested in other heatsink recommendations for this board - I will be going back through and reading more of the thread over the next day or two, but any information is welcomed. Blue and/or black color scheme is preferable.


----------



## eBombzor

Um, I got a Z77-D3H and I have a few questions my mobo manual can't answer. I have an external GPU, when I first try to boot, do I plug in my HDMI cable into the mobo or the GPU?

Second, I have an SSD and a HDD. I don't want to run Intel SRT so do I plug my SSD into the SATA 3 port and the HDD into the SATA 2 port? or both into the SATA 3 port to get the best performance?


----------



## barkeater

external gpu, also known as a discrete GPU or dGPU, as opposed to an integrated GPU or iGPU, will be what you are going to connect to on first boot. To enable iGPU, go into the bios and select; then you can connect to it and see what it can and can't do.

depends on whether the ssd and/or hdd is sata 2 or 3. plug into the port which is appropriate for the drive (i.e., ssd sata 2 plug into a sata 2 port).


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Ok thanks but when holding a mobo, where should i hold it? Is it bad to touch the mobo PCB or the soldered metal?


bad to touch the PCB. First though touch somthing else metal around you ti discharge static, then grab your motherboard by the metal part of the I/O panel(the backpanel) like where all the ports are.. Then place it on somthing, a motherboard box is ok.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heptadragon*
> 
> I'm curious if anyone has used (or tried to use) a Zalman CNPS12X in conjunction with the UD5H. I'm planning on purchasing the UD5H for a Deus Ex-themed build. I haven't settled on a heatsink yet but I liked what I saw of the CNPS12X and it fits the theme relatively well IMO. If someone has used it, I'd be interested in RAM recommendations for use with it - currently looking at the G.Skill Ares 16GB kit (F3-1600C8Q-16GAB). I was originally looking at a Ripjaws X 16GB kit but I figured the heatsinks would be too tall - from what I can tell the Ares kit will fit just fine?
> I'm also interested in other heatsink recommendations for this board - I will be going back through and reading more of the thread over the next day or two, but any information is welcomed. Blue and/or black color scheme is preferable.


i think it will fit, but you will need to use low profile memory to be safe.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Ok thanks but when holding a mobo, where should i hold it? Is it bad to touch the mobo PCB or the soldered metal?
> 
> 
> 
> bad to touch the PCB. First though touch somthing else metal around you ti discharge static, then grab your motherboard by the metal part of the I/O panel(the backpanel) like where all the ports are.. Then place it on somthing, a motherboard box is ok.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *heptadragon*
> 
> I'm curious if anyone has used (or tried to use) a Zalman CNPS12X in conjunction with the UD5H. I'm planning on purchasing the UD5H for a Deus Ex-themed build. I haven't settled on a heatsink yet but I liked what I saw of the CNPS12X and it fits the theme relatively well IMO. If someone has used it, I'd be interested in RAM recommendations for use with it - currently looking at the G.Skill Ares 16GB kit (F3-1600C8Q-16GAB). I was originally looking at a Ripjaws X 16GB kit but I figured the heatsinks would be too tall - from what I can tell the Ares kit will fit just fine?
> I'm also interested in other heatsink recommendations for this board - I will be going back through and reading more of the thread over the next day or two, but any information is welcomed. Blue and/or black color scheme is preferable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i think it will fit, but you will need to use low profile memory to be safe.
Click to expand...

Ok is it ok to touch the edge? or should I just touch the metal parts?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> external gpu, also known as a discrete GPU or dGPU, as opposed to an integrated GPU or iGPU, will be what you are going to connect to on first boot. To enable iGPU, go into the bios and select; then you can connect to it and see what it can and can't do.
> 
> depends on whether the ssd and/or hdd is sata 2 or 3. plug into the port which is appropriate for the drive (i.e., ssd sata 2 plug into a sata 2 port).


What are the advantages or iGPU vs dGPU? I heard you can use QuickSync and Lucid on iGPU, while dGPU can't. Is this true? Is it true that if you use iGPU then your discrete GPU will turn off at idle and use the iGPU instead? I prefer that method instead of leaving it on all the time.


----------



## DeXel

If you use iGPU as primary, and let Virtu to switch to dGPU you will have a performance drop. You may also experience bugs.

Quicksync is part of iGPU, so obviously you can't use it without it.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> If you use iGPU as primary, and let Virtu to switch to dGPU you will have a performance drop. You may also experience bugs.
> 
> Quicksync is part of iGPU, so obviously you can't use it without it.


So if I use dGPU then I can't use Virtu or QuickSync? How much of a performance drop are we talking about here?


----------



## DeXel

You can. Just enable iGPU in BIOS, install Virtu software, and use dGPU's video out.

This is article about Lucid Virtu but should apply to MVP. Basically there is a delay to transfer video signal all the way from a dedicated GPU to motherboard's outputs.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You can. Just enable iGPU in BIOS, install Virtu software, and use dGPU's video out.
> 
> This is article about Lucid Virtu but should apply to MVP. Basically there is a delay to transfer video signal all the way from a dedicated GPU to motherboard's outputs.


Oh ok. I don't know if I want Virtu anymore. Is there a way to just use your GPU w/out all of this mess?

...and one more question. When my Hyper 212 Evo arrives, how do install it with this pre-installed backplate? I don't think I can remove it because the screws are star shaped and they're on the socket itself.


----------



## DeXel

If you don't use virtu, and use a dedicated GPU without Virtu, you just lose ability to use Quicksync, and Virtu related stuff (hyperformance, vsync).
Hyper's backplate should not interfere with motherboard's bracket. You just install it on top.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> If you don't use virtu, and use a dedicated GPU without Virtu, you just lose ability to use Quicksync, and Virtu related stuff (hyperformance, vsync).
> Hyper's backplate should not interfere with motherboard's bracket. You just install it on top.


So, can I use dGPU out and still use Virtu by enabling iGPU within the BIOS? Doesn't hyperformance and virtual v-sync only work w/ games that run above the refresh rate of the monitor?

Quote:


> The architecture of the system also makes switching between i-Mode and d-Mode clumsy: you must reboot your system and change the "Initiate Graphics Adapter" setting in the EUFI BIOS to select either "iGPU" (for i-Mode) or "PCIE/PCI" for d-Mode. You then reboot again and switch the video cable to the appropriate output: if you forget to switch the video cable, or switch it without making the change in the BIOS, all you'll see is a black screen. Still, most people will pick a mode and stick to it, so this probably won't be a problem in the real world.


So this is saying I switch my Graphics Adapter thing to PCI-E mode and use the video cable on my discrete GPU?


----------



## DeXel

Yes, you can. That's what dMode is for.

Hyperformance uses iGPU to help your dGPU. I am not sure about virtual vsync.

In my experience they cause more trouble than help. I only use Virtu for QuickSync.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yes, you can. That's what dMode is for.
> 
> Hyperformance uses iGPU to help your dGPU. I am not sure about virtual vsync.
> 
> In my experience they cause more trouble than help. I only use Virtu for QuickSync.


Ok actually I don't need Virtu at all so I'm just going to use the dGPU mode.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## chas1723

I have the UD5H. could I run 2 fans off one header? I have two thermalright fans that I want to run but only have one header left. I have no molex plugs coming from my psu to keep clutter to a minimum. Any advise on what I can do?


----------



## DeXel

Yes, as long as they both use under 1A.


----------



## eBombzor

How do I switch between my Dual BIOS on the Z77-D3H?


----------



## DeXel

I believe you can't switch on that board. It will kick in when the main corrupts.

If you press ALT+F10 on boot, it will update the backup BIOS by copying from main.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I believe you can't switch on that board. It will kick in when the main corrupts.
> 
> If you press ALT+F10 on boot, it will update the backup BIOS by copying from main.


Ok thanks again.


----------



## eBombzor

Some people have been saying that the drivers on Gigabyte's website doesn't always have the latest versions - http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl 

Is this true? Where else would you download the drivers?

Also, do I need to download all the drivers listed? Do I need Intel Management Interface, INF Installation, SATA preinstalled driver, or the VGA driver? I don't think I'll need Intel RST or SRT b/c I want my SSD to be fast and not cache the HDD.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> depends on whether the ssd and/or hdd is sata 2 or 3. plug into the port which is appropriate for the drive (i.e., ssd sata 2 plug into a sata 2 port).


I have an Intel 520 240GB and a Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM HDD. I know I should plug my SSD into the SATA 3 port, but should I plug the HDD into the SATA 3 or 2 port? I heard HDDs don't benefit from SATA 3, is this true?

Should I plug all my drives into the mobo during my first Windows install or should I just plug in my SSD and install Windows and then plug the HDD later? Does it even matter? I want to install the OS on my SSD but I'm afraid that the HDD might interfere.


----------



## ryan87mets

hey, this is my first time overclocking and i was looking if someone can help me out with the settings i need to configure in my bios. I have the gigabyte GA-z77-d3h with an i5-2500k processor


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I have an Intel 520 240GB and a Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM HDD. I know I should plug my SSD into the SATA 3 port, but should I plug the HDD into the SATA 3 or 2 port? I heard HDDs don't benefit from SATA 3, is this true?
> 
> Should I plug all my drives into the mobo during my first Windows install or should I just plug in my SSD and install Windows and then plug the HDD later? Does it even matter? I want to install the OS on my SSD but I'm afraid that the HDD might interfere.


Plug the SSD into SATA_0 port, then install windows. It's usually less confusing to only have one drive (and your DVD drive) plugged in when installing Windows.
Then plug the HDD into SATA_1 if you want SATA III speeds, or plug it into any other port for SATA II. If you only have the two drives I would use the two Intel ports. Plug your DVD into one of the other ports.

If you have one of the boards with Marvell ports then they also support SATA III (UD5H) but I would place my boot drive on SATA_0.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I have an Intel 520 240GB and a Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM HDD. I know I should plug my SSD into the SATA 3 port, but should I plug the HDD into the SATA 3 or 2 port? I heard HDDs don't benefit from SATA 3, is this true?
> 
> Should I plug all my drives into the mobo during my first Windows install or should I just plug in my SSD and install Windows and then plug the HDD later? Does it even matter? I want to install the OS on my SSD but I'm afraid that the HDD might interfere.
> 
> 
> 
> Plug the SSD into SATA_0 port, then install windows. It's usually less confusing to only have one drive (and your DVD drive) plugged in when installing Windows.
> Then plug the HDD into SATA_1 if you want SATA III speeds, or plug it into any other port for SATA II. If you only have the two drives I would use the two Intel ports. Plug your DVD into one of the other ports.
> 
> If you have one of the boards with Marvell ports then they also support SATA III (UD5H) but I would place my boot drive on SATA_0.
Click to expand...

I have only 2 drives and I have 2 SATA 3 ports (0 and 1) and 4 SATA 2 ports (2,3,4,5). The BIOS won't automatically use Intel SRT or RST when I plug in both of my drives (SSD & HDD) into the 2 SATA 3 ports, right?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Holy voice from the past. How's it going snakes? remember you from back during the summer when everyone was still trying to figure these boards out.


Yeah, I got things working as much as I needed to so I quit following this thread. I never figured out overclocking so I kept it at default, and also never figured out getting my case's USB 3.0 ports to work but I wouldn't have used them anyway. It was glad to see this thread is still going!


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I have an Intel 520 240GB and a Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM HDD. I know I should plug my SSD into the SATA 3 port, but should I plug the HDD into the SATA 3 or 2 port? I heard HDDs don't benefit from SATA 3, is this true?
> 
> Should I plug all my drives into the mobo during my first Windows install or should I just plug in my SSD and install Windows and then plug the HDD later? Does it even matter? I want to install the OS on my SSD but I'm afraid that the HDD might interfere.


Depends. Assuming you want to install the OS on the ssd, which is recommended, then just plug your ssd into sata 3 port for initial os install, and then plug the remaining drive in afterwards.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryan87mets*
> 
> hey, this is my first time overclocking and i was looking if someone can help me out with the settings i need to configure in my bios. I have the gigabyte GA-z77-d3h with an i5-2500k processor


read this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I have only 2 drives and I have 2 SATA 3 ports (0 and 1) and 4 SATA 2 ports (2,3,4,5). The BIOS won't automatically use Intel SRT or RST when I plug in both of my drives (SSD & HDD) into the 2 SATA 3 ports, right?


I already answered this for you. your ssd is a sata 3 drive so plug it into a sata 3 port. If the hdd is also sata 3 drive, then plug it into the other sata 3 port (intel). If it is a sata 2 drive then plug it into whatever you want as sata 3 is backwards compatible. No, bios won't use that feature unless you set it up to do it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Yeah, I got things working as much as I needed to so I quit following this thread. I never figured out overclocking so I kept it at default, and also never figured out getting my case's USB 3.0 ports to work but I wouldn't have used them anyway. It was glad to see this thread is still going!


yeah, still going strong, but more or less same questions over and over


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I have only 2 drives and I have 2 SATA 3 ports (0 and 1) and 4 SATA 2 ports (2,3,4,5). The BIOS won't automatically use Intel SRT or RST when I plug in both of my drives (SSD & HDD) into the 2 SATA 3 ports, right?


What board do you have anyway? UD5H?
If so then you also have two more SATA III ports, the Marvell ones. but don't use those for boot drives, just stick with the Intel ports.

But no, you need a small SSD in the mSATA port for RST. Everyone and his brother uses SSD's for boot drives anymore (and rightfully so) and there is nothing extra you need to do other than install the OS. Windows 7 or 8 will automagically take care of things like turning off defrag and otherwise setting up the OS for SSD use. From a user point of view it's simple, just plug it in and install Windows.
No need for any preinstall drivers either, just set the bios for AHCI before installing Windows.
After Windows install then install all the drivers; chipset, USB 3.0, sound, etc etc.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I have only 2 drives and I have 2 SATA 3 ports (0 and 1) and 4 SATA 2 ports (2,3,4,5). The BIOS won't automatically use Intel SRT or RST when I plug in both of my drives (SSD & HDD) into the 2 SATA 3 ports, right?
> 
> 
> 
> What board do you have anyway? UD5H?
> If so then you also have two more SATA III ports, the Marvell ones. but don't use those for boot drives, just stick with the Intel ports.
> 
> But no, you need a small SSD in the mSATA port for RST. Everyone and his brother uses SSD's for boot drives anymore (and rightfully so) and there is nothing extra you need to do other than install the OS. Windows 7 or 8 will automagically take care of things like turning off defrag and otherwise setting up the OS for SSD use. From a user point of view it's simple, just plug it in and install Windows.
> No need for any preinstall drivers either, just set the bios for AHCI before installing Windows.
> After Windows install then install all the drivers; chipset, USB 3.0, sound, etc etc.
Click to expand...

I have a Z77-D3H. Do I need to install "

*Intel SATA Preinstall driver
(For AHCI / RAID Mode)
Note: Press F6 during Windows setup to read from floppy*." from http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl ?

What is this? Should I use Intel Driver Update Utility for Intel drivers and download the others off of Gigabyte? Or should I install all of them from Gigabyte?


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I have a Z77-D3H. Do I need to install "
> *Intel SATA Preinstall driver
> 
> (For AHCI / RAID Mode)
> 
> Note: Press F6 during Windows setup to read from floppy*." from http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl ?
> 
> What is this? Should I use Intel Driver Update Utility for Intel drivers and download the others off of Gigabyte? Or should I install all of them from Gigabyte?


NO, unless you have raid setup


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris-br*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I have a Z77-D3H. Do I need to install "
> *Intel SATA Preinstall driver
> 
> (For AHCI / RAID Mode)
> 
> Note: Press F6 during Windows setup to read from floppy*." from http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl ?
> 
> What is this? Should I use Intel Driver Update Utility for Intel drivers and download the others off of Gigabyte? Or should I install all of them from Gigabyte?
> 
> 
> 
> NO, unless you have raid setup
Click to expand...

Should I install Intel Management Engine Interface & Intel INF installation?


----------



## sgtjeep

I have been following this thread...so guess I will jump in here since my D3H will be here in a few days. Yes install those files. Let me know where you picked up your virtu drivers OK ?


----------



## SirWooties

Anyone know how to fix the USB power surge hub port error? I purchased a new USB Samson Go-Mic and I get that stupid error whenever I plug it into my PC. I have no other problem with any other USB device (flash drives, cameras). The odd thing is that the provided USB cord that came with the mic gives me that error. I don't even have to plug the usb cord into the microphone (just the pc itself) and I get this error.


----------



## DeXel

That error disappointed on Windows 7 with USB driver updates/new BIOS release. Never had it on Windows 8.

It is a software error. Your boards doesn't even have a hub.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Should I install Intel Management Engine Interface & Intel INF installation?


yes


----------



## Sujeto 1

Hello guys,I am trying to know how RELIABLE is the Gigabytes Z77 motherboards in general and the Sniper G1 , and how good is their customer RMA service. is one on my checklist for a new incoming gaming rig im building. Any techincal issue that forced you to RMA it? Thank you very much.

things i already have>

Case: Storm Enforcer Cooler master
SSD: 512 GB Crucial M4
1 tb Caviar Black
Antec High Current Pro HCP-850W


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> Hello guys,I am trying to know how RELIABLE is the Gigabytes Z77 motherboards in general and the Sniper G1 , and how good is their customer RMA service. is one on my checklist for a new incoming gaming rig im building. Any techincal issue that forced you to RMA it? Thank you very much.
> things i already have>
> Case: Storm Enforcer Cooler master
> SSD: 512 GB Crucial M4
> 1 tb Caviar Black
> Antec High Current Pro HCP-850W


I have two UD5H, 1 UD4 TH, 1 P67, and formerly owned a Z68, all good boards.
I have personal experience with repairs through Gigabyte US. It was a pretty straightforward part replacement, not an "unknown" problem. Turnaround time to my door once they received the board was 11 days. No complaints, and it was shipped UPS 3 day.


----------



## SirWooties

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> Anyone know how to fix the USB power surge hub port error? I purchased a new USB Samson Go-Mic and I get that stupid error whenever I plug it into my PC. I have no other problem with any other USB device (flash drives, cameras). The odd thing is that the provided USB cord that came with the mic gives me that error. I don't even have to plug the usb cord into the microphone (just the pc itself) and I get this error.


Hmm so it may have turned out that I had received a faulty usb cable with my mic. I used a spare mini usb cable and it works just fine. I get no errors with this spare cable and the mic powers on just fine. However, if I use the faulty usb cable, it makes my PC get the USB power surge hub error








That's really weird?


----------



## Snakes

I'm in a real pickle with booting and was hoping someone could set me straight.

I had 4 devices on the 4 SATA2 ports, the black ones controlled by Intel. I boot Windows 7 from an SSD on port 4.

I hooked up a new unformatted HDD on Port 1 which is one of the Intel SATA3 ports, all was fine. I formatted it as a primary partition, normally I would make it dynamic or extended but a friend suggested primary. I'm just using it for storage.

I turned off the PC, unplugged an old HDD from one of the SATA2 ports cause I had just replaced it with the new drive on port 1. I rebooted and now I can't boot into Windows. It gives an error message to locate the boot media or something, I forget the exact error message.

So I started troubleshooting by unplugging the new HDD from port 1, no difference. I believe I have everything set up right in the boot order in BIOS, am I missing something? All SATA devices are detected in BIOS and I have my SSD set as the first drvive in boot order. The only way I was able to boot into windows was to choose override boot order on the last page of the BIOS and then choose MBR. After realizing this I tried to set MBR as the first option in the boot order but it didn't help.

Any ideas? If my description didn't make sense I can try to clarify. I was wondering if it's because a primary partition drive (the new one) is in port 1, that it's somehow just ignoring the boot order I've set up and trying to boot off that drive, but then I tried unplugging it and it didn't fix the problem.


----------



## Chris CTA

It's very possible that your BIOS has recognized the new boot order when you plugged the new drive in. You may have to go back into BIOS setup to restore the original boot (drive) order. It happens to me regularly when I leave SATA caddies plugged in on reboot.


----------



## jamdox

Aaah, the boot order nonsense. First, I have reliably gotten the boot order I want by:

1. Unplug everything but the boot drive
2. Power up the system
3. That drive should now be recognized as "primary" or what not, hopefully!
4. Plug the rest of the drives in

If you have earlier BIOS, like F8, upgrading to F14 or F15 should probably solve the problem as well.

Worst case scenario, unplug everything, take out the CMOS battery and short the socket to drain the capacitors and reset everything. Then plug the primary drive in, etc.

Hope that helps!


----------



## Snakes

I think I'm using F7 or F8, something around there. What is considered the best current BIOS? I'll try either updating the bios or unplugging everything but the system drive, thanks guys.

I don't feel like experimenting with a beta bios right now, guess I'll give F14 a try.

I had F8a on my USB drive so that's probably what I have currently.


----------



## chris-br

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I think I'm using F7 or F8, something around there. What is considered the best current BIOS? I'll try either updating the bios or unplugging everything but the system drive, thanks guys.
> I don't feel like experimenting with a beta bios right now, guess I'll give F14 a try.
> I had F8a on my USB drive so that's probably what I have currently.


f14 is the way to go;; I have it and no issues since i got the mobo.


----------



## Snakes

Well, I updated to F14 BIOS and nothing has changed. I can boot from my SSD into windows if I hit F12 at boot up and then select the SSD from the boot menu, but if I don't do that it gives me the message "Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media"

I have redone the boot order in the BIOS many times, selecting just the SSD as number one priority or my dvd first and then SSD as I had done in the past, but it doesn't work unless I use the F12 menu or "override boot order" in the BIOS. I don't understand.

I checked whether any partitions in my system are marked Active, but they aren't.


----------



## eBombzor

So I'm right in the middle of my build and this special nut in the middle of the retention bracket for my Evo is adjustable, but my manual says nothing about it. Should I tighten it all the way or just leave it at default?

Am I mounting the back plate correctly on my Z77-D3H?


----------



## eBombzor

Ok I have everything installed and everything is working except for my HDD. I plugged it into SATA 1 port above SATA 0 (where my SSD is) and it doesn't show up.

Should I update my BIOS to F18? I have F16. I heard it's potentially risky, how risky?


----------



## antonbrk

Re: UEFI Windows 7 installation error msg "*Windows cannot be installed to this disk*."

As it turns out, this is a known W7 uefi install issue (see below). One can ignore the message, click next, and installation will proceed. All is good, thanks.

*
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2481490*

"SYMPTOMS
When installing Windows 7 or Windows Vista 64-bit on a SATA hard disk in Unified Extensible Firmware Interface (UEFI) mode, Windows installer may display a warning message "Windows cannot be installed to this disk".

RESOLUTION
This is a known issue. On Windows 7 systems, users can click 'Next" button to continue the installation..."

"On Vista systems, the "Next" button is disabled so users have to create a GPT partition to continue... "


----------



## jamdox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Well, I updated to F14 BIOS and nothing has changed. I can boot from my SSD into windows if I hit F12 at boot up and then select the SSD from the boot menu, but if I don't do that it gives me the message "Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media"
> I have redone the boot order in the BIOS many times, selecting just the SSD as number one priority or my dvd first and then SSD as I had done in the past, but it doesn't work unless I use the F12 menu or "override boot order" in the BIOS. I don't understand.
> I checked whether any partitions in my system are marked Active, but they aren't.


This is sounding more like a problem with the UEFI partitions. I'd load a copy of GPARTED (the Gnu partitioner) onto a thumb drive, boot into it, and try to see what's going on.

Good luck!


----------



## Snakes

I was looking back through this thread and realized that I had this same exact error when I first bought the board and was trying to set up Windows for the first time. I had been using this trick where you could supposedly reset your old Windows installation to "out of box experience" and pop it into a new PC. When I ran into the "Reboot and select proper boot device" I assumed that this trick just didn't work, and reinstalled Windows from scratch, which worked fine. Real puzzling. I still haven't tried booting with all SATA devices unplugged but the system drive, I should have tried that before but was hoping to avoid it.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> 
> So I'm right in the middle of my build and this special nut in the middle of the retention bracket for my Evo is adjustable, but my manual says nothing about it. Should I tighten it all the way or just leave it at default?
> 
> Am I mounting the back plate correctly on my Z77-D3H?


it is just for extra pressure on the heatsink block itself, no need to mess with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I was looking back through this thread and realized that I had this same exact error when I first bought the board and was trying to set up Windows for the first time. I had been using this trick where you could supposedly reset your old Windows installation to "out of box experience" and pop it into a new PC. When I ran into the "Reboot and select proper boot device" I assumed that this trick just didn't work, and reinstalled Windows from scratch, which worked fine. Real puzzling. I still haven't tried booting with all SATA devices unplugged but the system drive, I should have tried that before but was hoping to avoid it.


I have a question are you changing AHCI/IDE selection after you change your boot order? Do you have any thumb drives?


----------



## JRuxGaming

Anyone have any info on the UD4H yet? Sorry if this has already been talked about.
Links: Newegg and Gigabyte


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I have a question are you changing AHCI/IDE selection after you change your boot order? Do you have any thumb drives?


I haven't been changing AHCI/IDE, should I? I think I have the SSD set as AHCI. I'll check next time to make sure. I have no thumb drives plugged in.

Windows says TRIM is enabled, that means it's operating in AHCI I think.

I don't know if this is relevant or unusual but my system drive, the SSD, it has a 100MB "EFI system partition" at the front of it, and then the rest is a NTFS primary boot partition. I think Windows made it that way when I installed it, can't remember for sure.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> Anyone have any info on the UD4H yet? Sorry if this has already been talked about.
> Links: Newegg and Gigabyte


Looks a lot like a UP4. I really like the color scheme.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Looks a lot like a UP4. I really like the color scheme.


That's what I was thinking and it is right on the mark for my price range in 2 weeks when I get my student loans check.


----------



## DeXel

UD4H has world record for ram OC already. It is part of Ultra Durable 4, so it doesn't use IR3550 mosfets, but it has 8 true phase design. Otherwise it is a mix of UD3H and UD5H features with a design of UP4.


----------



## Snakes

I just tried unplugging every SATA device but the system SSD, no change. Then I tried moving the SSD to port 0 (Intel SATA3 port), still didn't work. Tried putting the SSD on the Gigabyte SATA3 port, nothing. Plugged everything back in and now I can't boot when selecting the SSD from the F12 boot menu, this worked up until now. Choosing Windows MBR on that menu does work though. SATA mode is set to AHCI in the bios like I believe it should be.

I don't even know what a UEFI partition is, but I guess I better start looking into it. What I don't understand is everything was working just great until I plugged a new HDD into port 1, I didn't change anything about the SSD.

I found someone with a problem similar to mine, he managed to fix it, I'll have to see if I can repeat his method. He repaired the Windows installation with a Windows installation disc. http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=38841

I just checked things out with Gparted, I didn't really know what to look for but things seemed fine. Then I tried setting BIOS first boot device to "Windows Boot Manager" which did not work before, it worked!


----------



## sgtjeep

Snakes,
Do the repair like the other guy did by running your Windows installation disc. After the repair get yourself a copy of the latest EasyBCD free program, just google for it then learn how to use this program, you will be glad you did. This program will allow you to set your boot order any way that you desire, as long as windows recognizes the drives ( you have assigned them a drive letter ). In case you are not familiar with the procedure...just go to control panel, Administrative tools, computer management, Disk management. You highlight a disk, right click on it and choose assign a drive letter, do so, windows will recognize your drive now.


----------



## Snakes

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into that!


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> UD4H has world record for ram OC already. It is part of Ultra Durable 4, so it doesn't use IR3550 mosfets, but it has 8 true phase design. Otherwise it is a mix of UD3H and UD5H features with a design of UP4.


Would you recommend this board?


----------



## DeXel

The price is right, so if it works as good as these boards, why not? It's new though, so it is soon to tell if it is stable, but HiCookie got a nice RAM OC on it. I believe the highest for Intel platform.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> The price is right, so if it works as good as these boards, why not? It's new though, so it is soon to tell if it is stable, but HiCookie got a nice RAM OC on it. I believe the highest for Intel platform.


Thank you, good sir.


----------



## Sin0822

actually the UD4H is a bit odd, but still a really good board.

In terms of power delivery it is almost equal to the UD3H. Same MOSFETs(only on UD3H and UD4H and lower end boards with less phases)however it uses an IR3564A which is a 4+1, IR3563A is 8+0, so it is odd b/c they are 1 number apart and they are the same size(small). So GIGABYTE is doubling 4 to 8 with IR3598 which is okay, almost makes it like 8, but not really. You could count phases by the number of drivers, in that case the UD3H would have 6, the UD5H would have 12, and the UD4H would have 8, the Z77 Extreme4 would still only have 4 lol, the extreme6 would have 12. Or you could count by number of true phases used, in that cause UD3H 6, UD5H 6, UD4H 4, E4 4, and E6 6. Anyways it seems to OC fine, prob b/c of the FETs, and this time they heatsinked all the VRM which was a complaint. They basically took everything wrong with the UD3H and put it into the UD4H.... which isn't bad and did some things to make the price slightly higher.

I did this: 




On the UD4H, so its an overview.

Basically in terms of audio:
better than UD3H but not as good as UD5H, it uses ALC892
for LAN it uses realtek 8111E which is odd i would expect atheros.
It has a cool feature with extra SATA6G, a bit ahead of its time







, basically it states that the Marvell SE9172 can provide both ports to the backpanel for eSATA or to internal ports for internal SATA, so they give you the option and cut the cost of using two to lower the boards price.

it has all the OC features, however one puts it up top, it has very VERY good memory OC, its a basic board, however it has GIGABYTE's latest T-topology routing, UD3H and others do too, but this one is much more refined. Think about all the effort they had to put into the UP7 with 10 layer PCB to have it match the performance of the UP5/UD5H, imagine taking that experience of that headache and putting what they learned into the UD4H which is more basic which is better for memory OC(less signal interruption, more trace integrity(don't have to route under or around certain things)). HD4 is also another contender with this same memory OC.


----------



## AlphaC

I saw the Z77X-UD4H has 3x PCie x16 with Tri-fire and triple SLI which is odd given the price point


----------



## DeXel

Gigabyte lies then!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> I saw the Z77X-UD4H has 3x PCie x16 with Tri-fire and triple SLI which is odd given the price point


UD3H has the exactly same PCI-E layout. X8/X8/X4 2.0. It doesn't do triple, and I don't know where you got that from.


----------



## JRuxGaming

With the UD3H with 6 true phases and the UD4H with 4 true phases, will that impact the overclock between those two. I don't care much for sound quality, but I wouldn't mind having extra SATA 3.0.


----------



## eBombzor

When I try updating the BIOS, should I disconnect all my drives?
Since I have a Z77-D3H, does the backup BIOS kick in when the main is corrupted? Does it automatically restore the main BIOS w/ the backup BIOS if it gets corrupted? If so, then I really have nothing to lose if the BIOS update fails, right?


----------



## sgtjeep

Updating a bios is always tricky, leave only your main drive connected. Your backup bios should kick in if you have a problem.
I don't know how you update your bios but I use @Bios. Don't forget to backup your bios using @Bios or your fav method, then you should be OK. Good luck & happy update.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Gigabyte lies then!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UD3H has the exactly same PCI-E layout. X8/X8/X4 2.0. It doesn't do triple, and I don't know where you got that from.


well its called marketing lol. I mean its the same 4 phases as most of the asus lineup, it just is very hard to get true 8 phases with so many other rails like iGPU, it costs a lot. So far the UP5 is like king other than UP7.

Impact of OC not much, just like you don't see the M5G OC any less than a true 6 phase ASUS board. It is just a bit cleaner power, however more output capacitors can also make up for less true phases. As long as each phase has its own driver, it is decent in my view as you can disable individual phases if needed to save power, however you don't get that interleaving which will help with reducing ripple, instead you need to use decoupling caps.

More true phases basically allows designers to get rid of output capacitors of both MLCC and can-type, as the interleaving of of more phases can reduce the ripple current by increasing the ripple frequency. Switching frequency can also reduce ripple, however for the sake of efficiency/heat they like to keep this low. Capacitors are needed to get rid of ripple so it is a balancing game, capacitors are also one of the most expensive parts of the VRM, if not the most in many cases. This interleaving affect however is very big between 1-2 phases or 2-3 phases, but gets smaller from 3-4 and 4-5, and much smaller between 5-6 and 6-7, between 6-8 it is very small. There are also many other things that affect ripple like ESR of the capacitor and the type, as well as the ripple current of the inductor and other things. So it isn' as easy as increased phases.

Both the UD3H and UD4H have very good VRMs, i would say basically equal in many regards as the UD4H has total heatsink and more inductors, and more high-side FETs, while the UD3H has more true phases and slightly more low-side MOSFETs. In reality the UD4H can move more current. So if each phase could move 30A then the UD3H could move (30x6) 180A and the UD4H could move (8x30) 240A. While each phase of the UD3H would run cooler, the UD4H spreads the load along more phases and has heatsinks. I would call them equal in terms of VRM, same for OC.


----------



## DeXel

Yea, I understand that. I am just a bit disappointed that Gigabyte's definition of true 8 phase design (they didn't write true 12 phase design for UD5H after all), isn't the same as you use in your vids (phases used from PWM). It's definitely a good board, and priced well too.

Lets say I was hopping UD4H would take a title from UP5 as the cheapest Z77 board with true 8 phase design.


----------



## Sin0822

yea i am with you i hoped for it too, but its okay, it mean it is a pretty cheap board for what it is, I am just glad they left on the OC features unlike the UP4.

Yea i have a much more strict definition of true haha.
Honestly when I first saw the board I thought it was true, until I counted the PWMs on the board and I was like, they can't do that with only 2 PWMs if it was IR3563A, then i took a closer look(b/c the PWm is freaking small, and its a single number difference) and found it was 4+1, i was kind of relived actually because it made sense, i hate when things don't make sense. lol I had never seen a IR3564A, but hey it is nice to see it being used. So far GB has basically used almost all of IRs PWMs, IR3563, IR3570, IR3564, IR3567.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtjeep*
> 
> Updating a bios is always tricky, leave only your main drive connected. Your backup bios should kick in if you have a problem.
> I don't know how you update your bios but I use @Bios. Don't forget to backup your bios using @Bios or your fav method, then you should be OK. Good luck & happy update.


How do I restore the BIOS if it gets corrupted? What's the purpose of manually backing up BIOS?
Is @BIOS better than Q-flash?


----------



## expresso

Ok I finally got my UD5H board in last night - and up and running - its a very nice looking board - and it worked with no problems -

i had one strange issue with the USB 3.0 when trying to use my printer usb - which is 2.0 - it shut down - then my thumb drives which always worked before - didnt work anymore - i though i killed the port - etc,

as anyone had this happen to them before ? was scary - turned out to be fine - what i believe it was - Windows 8 !!! -

installed Win 8 32 bit - by mistake - i though it was 64 - either way - my printer didnt work - no software for Win 8 - so it gave me problems - and i guess Win 8 is just not ready for this board -

my board is version 1.1 and bios F14 -

since i lost my printer functions - limited to what would work with the 3.0 ports - and put in 32 bit - instead of 64

i just started over - Win 7 64 this time - and everything is back to the way it was - - printer software working - all my thumb drives work in all the 3.0 ports - etc, - front and back -

i dont know if its the board and win 8 not working together or just Win 8 - either way - it was scary - finally got it all together and then it just shut down when plug in the rear 3.0 port with my printer cable - i lost all power etc, -

my board shows Code A0 - so its fine -

just wanted to share this - in case anyone had this happen or is considering Win 8 - the short time i had win 8 - it boots very fast - etc,

but not trilled about it - have to relearn alot of basic stuff - - - maybe in a year or more when its stable with drivers - software etc, - i try 64 bit -

Win 7 still boots fast with my SSD - maybe 5 or so more secs - compared to Win 8 - thats fine with me - as long as it works


----------



## eBombzor

When I update the BIOS using Q-Flash, do I put all 3 files on the USB (autoexec.bat / Z77D3H.F18 / Efiflash.exe) or just Z77D3H.F18?


----------



## Snakes

Just the .F18 file.


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Ok I finally got my UD5H board in last night - and up and running - its a very nice looking board - and it worked with no problems -
> i had one strange issue with the USB 3.0 when trying to use my printer usb - which is 2.0 - it shut down - then my thumb drives which always worked before - didnt work anymore - i though i killed the port - etc,
> as anyone had this happen to them before ? was scary - turned out to be fine - what i believe it was - Windows 8 !!! -
> installed Win 8 32 bit - by mistake - i though it was 64 - either way - my printer didnt work - no software for Win 8 - so it gave me problems - and i guess Win 8 is just not ready for this board -
> my board is version 1.1 and bios F14 -
> since i lost my printer functions - limited to what would work with the 3.0 ports - and put in 32 bit - instead of 64
> i just started over - Win 7 64 this time - and everything is back to the way it was - - printer software working - all my thumb drives work in all the 3.0 ports - etc, - front and back -
> i dont know if its the board and win 8 not working together or just Win 8 - either way - it was scary - finally got it all together and then it just shut down when plug in the rear 3.0 port with my printer cable - i lost all power etc, -


I've been using Windows 8 64-bit (CP, RP, final) on my UD5H for some time now and the main issues I have seen are problems with SOME devices on the USB 3.0 VIA ports (no issues for me on the USB 3,0 Intel port, no issues with the USB 2.0 ports).
I am now using BIOS F15p and was having some problems with sudden and unexpected system reboots for no apparent reason until I cleared CMOS.
Oh, and I am also still using MBR. Playing around with a UEFI install of Windows 8, I have not seen any significant difference for me, so I am in no hurry to abandon MBR. I'll probably use UEFI for my next clean install though.


----------



## kg4icg

I guess you people can add me to the club with a UP5 motherboard. All up and running fine.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kg4icg*
> 
> I guess you people can add me to the club with a UP5 motherboard. All up and running fine.


The UP series club is over here-> official-z77x-up5-up4-d3h-th-owners-club-discussion-and-info-thread


----------



## expresso

i see - i am not going back to win 8 - i am fine with my 7 64 - no problems - the usb port which it happened on was the top 3.0 right under the NIC - not sure which that one is -

i just went to plug in my printer cable and it went off - like it was shocked or shorted - all power went down - i have to shut off PSU - wait and then it came back on - when i checked all the ports with a thumb drive which worked before - the thumb drive no longer worked with all the 3.0 ports front of rear -

but if i plugged in my external WD drive 2.0 - it worked so i know the ports were working - something was not right - and it was scary - i did not want to take it apart again and send the board back -

when i went back to win 7 - everything is fine now - and those thumb drives which didnt work are working again - i have bios F14 - and am not upgrading unless i run into problems for some reason - hopefully the new bios would be a official stable release by then


----------



## eBombzor

Woot successful BIOS update! Wow the BIOS update gave me like 50 more options.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Some people have been saying that the drivers on Gigabyte's website doesn't always have the latest versions - http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl
> Is this true? Where else would you download the drivers?
> 
> Also, do I need to download all the drivers listed? Do I need Intel Management Interface, INF Installation, SATA preinstalled driver, or the VGA driver? I don't think I'll need Intel RST or SRT b/c I want my SSD to be fast and not cache the HDD.


latest is here

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html

and you only need this
audio
lan
intel usb
via usb
intel inf chipset
intel mei
intel iata (ahci raid)

if you use intel igpu, then those drivers

long time without posting because i had almost 3 months far from my pc

so far my ud3h has been nice

but.............again those usb devils

those next to the ps2 port, sometimes work, but not always, it can´t even give power to my x360 pad (the pad is fine, it is the usb port damaged or something)


----------



## sgtjeep

I find @Bios easier to update and backup my bios because I can do the whole operation while in windows. Give it a try, you won't have to do the update again, but you could install @Bios and take a look at the options it presents to you. You can update from a file on the Gigabyte server, update from a file on your hard drive/SSD, back up your bios incase you have a problem.

I used to use Qflash and others back in the day, but as always, one should use the procedure they feel most comfortable with. Congrats on a successful upgrade and I will look into the F18 bios when my mobo arrives tomorrow. Are you going to use the Virtu capabilities of your motherboard ?


----------



## DeXel

If Windows freezes, or BSODs while @Bios flashing... well you don't want that to happen. At least these boards have dual-BIOS, but still.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtjeep*
> 
> I find @Bios easier to update and backup my bios because I can do the whole operation while in windows. Give it a try, you won't have to do the update again, but you could install @Bios and take a look at the options it presents to you. You can update from a file on the Gigabyte server, update from a file on your hard drive/SSD, back up your bios incase you have a problem.
> 
> I used to use Qflash and others back in the day, but as always, one should use the procedure they feel most comfortable with. Congrats on a successful upgrade and I will look into the F18 bios when my mobo arrives tomorrow. Are you going to use the Virtu capabilities of your motherboard ?


I disabled iGPU b/c I don't need virtu.


----------



## sgtjeep

Yes there is always the possibility of a hitch in the OS. Lets face it..the old adage that bios flashing should not be done by the faint of heart..is alive and well. I personally don't flash from a web server now a days, had an ISP glitch once and had to reflash from my just saved bios file. All went well, downloaded from Gigabyte site and did it that way. I did have an old trusty bios flash proggy on my flash drive that could have been used just in case, but didn't have to use it. My ole granpa told me once..you should always keep a spare around son..you can trust me on that one, get you out of a bind someday it will.


----------



## stayinsync

Had something very similar happen yesterday. USB boot option seemed to permanently disappear after (probably wrongly) modifying boot option, boot order, boot mode, or some mismatched combination of them, after I had moved the installed system drive SATA cable from SATA port 1 to SATA port 0. I could not recover the USB boot option no matter what I tried, including restoring default mobo settings. Fix was to clear the CMOS. I don't know whether it was necessary but I used the "surefire" method, i.e, unplug power cord, take out battery from mobo battery port, short connectors inside mobo battery port while holding down the clear CMOS button located in the corner of the UD5H mobo]. I did unsuccessfully try all the USB ports that previously were able to boot from that USB Windows installer disk, however, I suspect now I didn't try the rear red USB2 ports, so maybe they would have worked before the CMOS clear. I have no idea. Anyway, CMOS clear, followed by restoring default mobo settings, fixed the mysterious disappearance of the USB boot option in my case. If someday I manage to master the mysterious UD5H fan controls I'll be even happier.

Edit: forgot to quote Snakes' post a few pages back
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I just tried unplugging every SATA device but the system SSD, no change. Then I tried moving the SSD to port 0 (Intel SATA3 port), still didn't work. Tried putting the SSD on the Gigabyte SATA3 port, nothing. Plugged everything back in and now I can't boot when selecting the SSD from the F12 boot menu, this worked up until now. Choosing Windows MBR on that menu does work though. SATA mode is set to AHCI in the bios like I believe it should be.
> I don't even know what a UEFI partition is, but I guess I better start looking into it. What I don't understand is everything was working just great until I plugged a new HDD into port 1, I didn't change anything about the SSD.
> I found someone with a problem similar to mine, he managed to fix it, I'll have to see if I can repeat his method. He repaired the Windows installation with a Windows installation disc. http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=38841
> I just checked things out with Gparted, I didn't really know what to look for but things seemed fine. Then I tried setting BIOS first boot device to "Windows Boot Manager" which did not work before, it worked!


----------



## expresso

that bios update is that for ? UD5H -

is that the F15 ?

what extra settings did it give you -


----------



## sgtjeep

If you are talking about ebombsor's statement then he was updating a D3H.


----------



## expresso

yes thanks -

i have a question maybe someone can give me some info on the UD5H board -

i want to add new fans to my antec 920 cooler -

i found a nice fan - coolermaster Xtraflo model - high static pressure rating and its 4 pin for PWM control -

the amps it draws are 0.45 - max 0.7

power watts is - 5.4 watts - max 8.4 watts

i would be adding two fans in push pull and both would be connected to the cooler and then in the CPU header -

would the board - CPU header handle the amp and power of both fans ?


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CiTRxJ*
> 
> That's a shame... the cheapest automatic fan controller I know of is at least another $20. I wish I could run all my fans off the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> still cheaper than getting all pwm fans. I still think the best way to go is get a fan controller with pwm functionality (as well as voltage) as then this device could follow along from build to build.
> 
> I like this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995075
Click to expand...

Actually, that Sunbeam fan controller you linked to has NO PWM capability. In fact I haven't seen a single fan controller on the market that truly supports PWM speed control, which is a bizarre omission.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Actually, that Sunbeam fan controller you linked to has NO PWM capability. In fact I haven't seen a single fan controller on the market that truly supports PWM speed control, which is a bizarre omission.


Sunbean fan controller can be connected to the PWM fan header of a motherboard, and change fan speeds of the fans connected to it based on that.


----------



## expresso

i have a logisys 6 channel controller and its has long cable with 4 pin ends to connect to PWM fans - etc, - i control mines from the controller -

only fan i keep on board is the CPU with the antec 920


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Actually, that Sunbeam fan controller you linked to has NO PWM capability. In fact I haven't seen a single fan controller on the market that truly supports PWM speed control, which is a bizarre omission.


Holy moly everyone. Get a normal voltage based fan controller, you know, with a knob or something?! Then just adjust it to your liking. Why does everything need to have a sensor, have profiles, be automated, auto raise/lower speeds based on temps. Honestly, if your fans are that loud, get a better case for airflow, get better fans and buy a simple controller. The fan talk is so tiring. Really, it is.


----------



## expresso

I finally got 4.5 stable prime for 7 hours - i feel good about this setup now -

i am running IBT now - 4.7 - passed very high - doing maximum now - dont feel like doing another 7 hours of prime right now -


----------



## expresso




----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Holy moly everyone. Get a normal voltage based fan controller, you know, with a knob or something?! Then just adjust it to your liking. Why does everything need to have a sensor, have profiles, be automated, auto raise/lower speeds based on temps. Honestly, if your fans are that loud, get a better case for airflow, get better fans and buy a simple controller. The fan talk is so tiring. Really, it is.


So we can only discuss things you approve of?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> yes thanks -
> i have a question maybe someone can give me some info on the UD5H board -
> i want to add new fans to my antec 920 cooler -
> i found a nice fan - coolermaster Xtraflo model - high static pressure rating and its 4 pin for PWM control -
> the amps it draws are 0.45 - max 0.7
> power watts is - 5.4 watts - max 8.4 watts
> i would be adding two fans in push pull and both would be connected to the cooler and then in the CPU header -
> would the board - CPU header handle the amp and power of both fans ?


Your exceeding the 1 amp max for the header, so it's up to you as to what you are willing to try.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> yes thanks -
> i have a question maybe someone can give me some info on the UD5H board -
> i want to add new fans to my antec 920 cooler -
> i found a nice fan - coolermaster Xtraflo model - high static pressure rating and its 4 pin for PWM control -
> the amps it draws are 0.45 - max 0.7
> power watts is - 5.4 watts - max 8.4 watts
> i would be adding two fans in push pull and both would be connected to the cooler and then in the CPU header -
> would the board - CPU header handle the amp and power of both fans ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Your exceeding the 1 amp max for the header, so it's up to you as to what you are willing to try.


There are PWM fan splitters that come with a molex plug so you can power it with the PSU through a molex wire directly while controlling it with your motherboard header, the Rosewill I listed is the only thing Newegg has I think but you can find more options on frozencpu.com and similar sites.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Your exceeding the 1 amp max for the header, so it's up to you as to what you are willing to try.


Oh whow - too late - i ordered them already -

where did you see that - i was looking in the manual to find out the limits and i didnt find it - i didnt think it would be too much which the board is being powered by the PSU - anyway - i would think the CPU header be able to handle the most out of the fan headers -

if you seen that in the manual - can you link that to me so i can read it -

worst case means i cant put them full blast ? what would happen if it exceeded the limit - would it shut down - or slow down ? any protections which the board will do to stop it from doing any damage ?

i may have a option around that - if i really have to - i was looking to use the Chill software to control the fans - but if i really have too - i have a 6 channel fan controller - one channel free -

i think handles 25 watts a channel and i do have a Y cable PWM splitter also - worst case - i can connect both fans to the Y cable and then into the fan controller - - would just plug in the wire from the Antec Cooler into the CPU header leaving the other ends empty with nothing connected to it -

would that work - would lose Chill control of the fans and have to use the fan controller -

i didnt want to use the main fans of the controller just in case it should fail - i would at least have the cooler fans still running off the CPU header -

i would have to leave everything up to the Controller now and hope that dosnt fail -- never had one - so not sure how long they last -


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> So we can only discuss things you approve of?


It's pretty funny. I said the exact same thing how this motherboard while great in stability is completely ruined by the piss poor fan controller and got chewed out for it.

How this gen motherboard fails to have this ability when my years old abit had it is beyond me.

If I knew it ahead of time i would've gone elsewhere (and yes i did get a fan controller but knocks are total crap vs have the fans ramp up dynamically according to my gpu temps). The moment haswell comes out i'm dumping this motherboard and going to another company.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Holy moly everyone. Get a normal voltage based fan controller, you know, with a knob or something?! Then just adjust it to your liking. Why does everything need to have a sensor, have profiles, be automated, auto raise/lower speeds based on temps. Honestly, if your fans are that loud, get a better case for airflow, get better fans and buy a simple controller. The fan talk is so tiring. Really, it is.
> 
> 
> 
> So we can only discuss things you approve of?
Click to expand...

Exactly. I think jayhay is missing the point. And the volume of discussion about fan problems is the direct result of Gigabyte's lack of support in comparison to other motherboard manufacturers who implement PWM control much, much better.

And ignoring jayhay's "orders" to stop, it sounds like although there isn't a true PWM fan controller, you can daisy-chain two levels of speed control by having the input to the controller be a true PWM interface, while the outputs are separately attenuated to conventional 3-pin voltage-control case fans. Still not ideal, but I'll give it a try.


----------



## jayhay

*** are you talking about? I agree, the fan controls could be better. But you all are just beating a dead horse. I'm not ordering anyone to do anything. I would just like to see this thread be productive. Comp noise issues are easy, just solve them with a few $.


----------



## jayhay

Dp, sry.


----------



## expresso

Does anyone know for sure on the UD5H board -

what the amp rating and wattage is for the CPU fan header ?

i cant find it anywhere - i get different numbers from people but none who have the same board and they are not sure either

i emailed tech - gigabyte - not heard back yet -

i plan on using two coolermaster xtraflow fans on the antec 920 cooler - i already ordered them - so i plan to use them one way or another now -

i just like to know if it can handle it - i would assume so being that the V6GT cooler comes with those fans - i would think the boards today would be able to handle them -

i read the manual and nothing in there about limits of amps or wattage for any of the fan ports - i am looking to control the fans from the Chill software - which means i have to use the CPU header

thanks


----------



## Gregar Forte

Hi,can I use Asus Xonar DGX PCIeX1 sound card in PCI-E X4 slot?I'm using Gigabyte Z77X-D3H REV1.0.TQ


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregar Forte*
> 
> Hi,can I use Asus Xonar DGX PCIeX1 sound card in PCI-E X4 slot?I'm using Gigabyte Z77X-D3H REV1.0.TQ


Yes, but PCI-E x1 slots will be disabled.


----------



## expresso

I found out - fan headers on the UD5H is 1 amp limit

Called gigabyte today -


----------



## JRuxGaming

I was going to grab the UD4H, but instead I jumped up to the UD5H. I found out I am getting a bit more money from my Financial Aid.







Just a couple weeks and the rig in my sig will be a reality.


----------



## Gregar Forte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yes, but PCI-E x1 slots will be disabled.


Thanks for your reply.


----------



## expresso

Up date on my OC - i got 4.7 Passed IBT Max stress settings -

but when running prime - 45 mins - 1 worker stopped -

my Vcore is 1.355

do you think i need a little bump up in Vcore - or something else i can try ?


----------



## sgtjeep

D3H is in, what bios are you guys using successfully with a i7 3770K ? Anyone having issues with being unable to use their primary graphics card ( blank screen ) ? I am running on internal Gpx only. Answers will be appreciated.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> I found out - fan headers on the UD5H is 1 amp limit
> 
> Called gigabyte today -


Yes, that's the same rating they told me when the UD5H first came out.
1A = 12W. What you have to take into consideration is some fans draw a little more startup current than their rating. But I would feel pretty safe running two .36A - .4A fans off a single header.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yes, that's the same rating they told me when the UD5H first came out.
> 1A = 12W. What you have to take into consideration is some fans draw a little more startup current than their rating. But I would feel pretty safe running two .36A - .4A fans off a single header.


i decided to keep the stock fans from antec 920 - will change them out next week and then try to prime again once i figure out how to get 4.7 stable - prime fails after a few hours or so -

i want to try to up the memory volts - since i never touched them and left them at stock 1.5 volts -


----------



## Belial

Someone told me this at Teamliquid:
Quote:


> I would have gone with the extreme4 over UD3H mainly because I like seeing what my CPU Vcore is at and not at just what I set it at.


Is there any truth to this? Everything I've seen so far is that the ud3h is great and the extreme4 is a piece of **** board.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Someone told me this at Teamliquid:
> Is there any truth to this? Everything I've seen so far is that the ud3h is great and the extreme4 is a piece of **** board.


For average overclocks on air or water the extreme 4 does the job, with more exotic cooling & extreme overclocks the ud3h will keep going where the extreme4 doesn't.
With pretty much any board you need a multimeter to see what the vcore is really at anyway


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> CPU voltage readings on Gigabyte Z77 motherboards have been odd as of late. Initially we thought that Gigabyte was manipulating the voltage readings from the board to the operating system to give a semblance of improved usage. Then on the Z77MX-D3H, even in overclocked scenarios the voltage reading was the same value as the stock reading. This made us caution a little more - what sort of games or tricks were being played? Then on the UD5H we noticed that on boards where the voltage does change under OC, while at at stock the voltage reaching can actually change, although Gigabyte has set the reading to change with a granularity of 0.01 volts. On all other motherboards we test, OCCT shows variations when the voltage fluctuates by ~0.004 volts - even though OCCT is itself a time smoothed average, we expect to see some variation. The results of this are two fold - the Gigabyte boards do vary in the voltage but they do not want the user to know about it, but if the improved power delivery of the Ultra Durable 5 system results in less ripple, why set the minimum reporting variation so high? This means that as reviewers we cannot comment on how stable the load line calibration is if no variation is seen at all. As a result, I am unwilling to add voltage values in our comparison table for boards like this, as it could hide the true representation of default LLC and load voltages. Especially as the load voltage reported under overclocking was the same as reported under stock - 1.068 volts. This means the value is being manipulated between the CPU and the OS at the BIOS level, which should never be the case.


http://www.anandtech.com/show/6296/gigabyte-z77xup4-th-review-thunderbolt-times-two/4

what is this about?
Quote:


> For average overclocks on air or water the extreme 4 does the job, with more exotic cooling & extreme overclocks the ud3h will keep going where the extreme4 doesn't.
> With pretty much any board you need a multimeter to see what the vcore is really at anyway


yes i know. i plan to stay on ambient cooling but i will be pushing high volts, 1.4+, maybe up to 1.5+ if the cpu appreciates it and temps dont go too far (will delid).


----------



## kmac20

I've read on here that the extreme4 is worse at voltage reading anyway.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i decided to keep the stock fans from antec 920 - will change them out next week and then try to prime again once i figure out how to get 4.7 stable - prime fails after a few hours or so -
> 
> i want to try to up the memory volts - since i never touched them and left them at stock 1.5 volts -


If I were you, I would just leave the ram on profile 1 or xmp if you are still trying to find your max cpu oc. I have been following your posts and I think your issue lies elsewhere in your bios settings. You have nearly the same setup as me (p.s. it would help if you were to fill out your system specs) except you have the i7 (better than me). your temps seem on the high side but not by alot. Maybe you can try disabling the hyperthreading and see if that helps your stability. Have you tried lowering your PLL to 1.7 and see what that does for your temps in ibt?

FWIW, when I was looking for my max cpu oc, I would run ibt for my initial testing because its fast. Once I thought I had something stable, I'd run prime blend for 8 hrs. If it passed 8, move to 12 hrs.

If you want to share some of your bios settings, just use a jump drive and hit F12 which will save screen shots to your jump, then post them here. Makes things a lot easier. If I can remember (and find my jump drive) I'll try and post my OC profile that you can try.


----------



## Belial

http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=392709#13

yea check this out:
Quote:


> *On January 11 2013 18:36 iTzSnypah wrote:*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> pull a ridiculous board up too
> 
> 
> 
> My point is that Gigabyte is not reporting correctly. I will never buy a Gigabyte board (not that I have the money) until this problem gets fixed.
> 
> ASRock X79 Extreme11
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS Z77-V Premium
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Biostar TZ77XE4
Click to expand...

I mean, my response, as shown in the link, was that yea, that looks pretty correct for the ud3h. and that to say the ud3h is a bad board, because anandtechs multimeter or whatever is reading it incorrectly, makes no sense to me. it's not like it's reporting bad vcore in bios or in software monitoring, he's saying it shows it poorly off this multimeter tool.

and anadtech ddint even come to the same conclusion he did. anandtech just said
Quote:


> The response of the Gigabyte board under load is fantastic. No ripple at all and a lower average voltage than the ASUS P8P77-V Pro.


so... im thinking what he's saying makes no sense. Like... you'd pick a board, the extreme4, which is shown to have a poor load control, over a board that is either reporting VASTLY improved voltage control at load or isn't able to output it's vcore clearly when using a tool to detect vcore?

like wut? its like saying a lamborghini is a bad car because the laser speed detector gun isn't able to correctly pick up the speeds of the car correctly OR that that 200mph readings can't possibly be correct, it's too good compared to the GM Calibre!


----------



## DeXel

I don't see the problem here. LLC on these boards is strong. Did they even use voltage points or just trusted to software measurements?

Why do you even waste time to argue with gamers?


----------



## Belial

hahaha.

Anandtech said they used a tool to measure the actual vcore coming from the boards.

I'm not really sure what the guy was getting at. He said he thinks the extreme4 is a better board and he'd never buy gigabyte because 'they dont report real vcore', but it doesnt even sound like its not reporting vcore in software or monitoring, it's just that with a multimeter of some sort hooked up, gigabyte boards might not report actual vcore (weird to say, i know) OR the results are... too good to be true?

I'm not really sure, like this guy is adamant that gigabyte boards are totally untrustworthy. However, even if he has a point, the idea that you should buy the Extreme4 is pretty stupid, for sure, lol. If he had a valid point, I would've considered going with Biostar instaed.


----------



## DeXel

Well Gigabyte had bad time with X79 and Z68 as far as overclocking or stability goes, but you just can't be angry on a company because you failed to research a bad product, you know? Extreme4's software readings are way of from multimeter readings which isn't the case with UD boards.


----------



## Belial

i think you are misunderstanding. i dont have any intel board, ever, im going to MC right now to get... the ud3h, which it seems is the best board by far. but if there was an issue, id get the biostar.

there was some guy saying issues, per that nanadtech article, of the ud3h. and he had recommended the extreme4. i responded saying the extreme4 is crap and that maybe the ud3h has issues.... but i definitely wouldnt get the extreme4 instead, and these issues seem really questionable.


----------



## DeXel

Sorry man, by "you" I didn't meant you, but rather that guy from the other forum. He is being very picky and definetely biased against GB.

Also sorry for delayed responses. I shouldn't have messed with Windows registry Today... lost all my network lol.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=392709#13
> 
> yea check this out:
> I mean, my response, as shown in the link, was that yea, that looks pretty correct for the ud3h. and that to say the ud3h is a bad board, because anandtechs multimeter or whatever is reading it incorrectly, makes no sense to me. it's not like it's reporting bad vcore in bios or in software monitoring, he's saying it shows it poorly off this multimeter tool.
> 
> and anadtech ddint even come to the same conclusion he did. anandtech just said
> so... im thinking what he's saying makes no sense. Like... you'd pick a board, the extreme4, which is shown to have a poor load control, over a board that is either reporting VASTLY improved voltage control at load or isn't able to output it's vcore clearly when using a tool to detect vcore?
> 
> like wut? its like saying a lamborghini is a bad car because the laser speed detector gun isn't able to correctly pick up the speeds of the car correctly OR that that 200mph readings can't possibly be correct, it's too good compared to the GM Calibre!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I don't see the problem here. LLC on these boards is strong. Did they even use voltage points or just trusted to software measurements?
> 
> Why do you even waste time to argue with gamers?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> hahaha.
> 
> Anandtech said they used a tool to measure the actual vcore coming from the boards.
> 
> I'm not really sure what the guy was getting at. He said he thinks the extreme4 is a better board and he'd never buy gigabyte because 'they dont report real vcore', but it doesnt even sound like its not reporting vcore in software or monitoring, it's just that with a multimeter of some sort hooked up, gigabyte boards might not report actual vcore (weird to say, i know) OR the results are... too good to be true?
> 
> I'm not really sure, like this guy is adamant that gigabyte boards are totally untrustworthy. However, even if he has a point, the idea that you should buy the Extreme4 is pretty stupid, for sure, lol. If he had a valid point, I would've considered going with Biostar instaed.


What I get out of his issue with GB is that he suspect GB board as reporting the vcore in a much less precise manner to give the impression of voltage stability under load. That is why GB graphs out to an almost completely flat line in OOCT where other boards show some variation in vcore under load (~ +/-0.005V). But depending on what monitoring program you use, you can get a different precision of the vcore (i.e., cpu-z vcore 1.28 vs. hwmonitor 1.286V). I don't know if they are necessarily comparing the value reported in bios, or in a monitoring program to the measured value using a multimeter.

He's also indicating that whether you set the vcore at 1.25V or 1.35V in bios, ooct will report it as some constant number when under load, or at idle (thus manipulated). I didn't use occt for my oc so I cannot comment on whether this is an issue with occt or anandtech got a screwy board or bios or both. I do know that my GB board still does not report my voltages correctly for the 3.3V, 5V and 12V lines in HWMonitor, although I get reasonable readings for the 3.3 and 12V in ET6, but no 5V (annoying). But I have not experienced the same thing that was reported in the article while using the monitoring programs that I used during OC'ing (cpu-z, coretemp, ET6). [shrug]


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> If I were you, I would just leave the ram on profile 1 or xmp if you are still trying to find your max cpu oc. I have been following your posts and I think your issue lies elsewhere in your bios settings. You have nearly the same setup as me (p.s. it would help if you were to fill out your system specs) except you have the i7 (better than me). your temps seem on the high side but not by alot. Maybe you can try disabling the hyperthreading and see if that helps your stability. Have you tried lowering your PLL to 1.7 and see what that does for your temps in ibt?
> 
> FWIW, when I was looking for my max cpu oc, I would run ibt for my initial testing because its fast. Once I thought I had something stable, I'd run prime blend for 8 hrs. If it passed 8, move to 12 hrs.
> 
> If you want to share some of your bios settings, just use a jump drive and hit F12 which will save screen shots to your jump, then post them here. Makes things a lot easier. If I can remember (and find my jump drive) I'll try and post my OC profile that you can try.


I did a quick 2 hour prime last night - and it was fine - so i am not touching my settings just yet - i have it on XMP profile - and i upped the volts to 1.55 for the ram

as for the screen shots - i think i did some - but whats strange is - i have 3.0 ports on my case and when i used a 2.0 flash drive - it worked - now i got a 3.0 flash drive and it dosnt work - i cant make screen prints - that sucks - you know all this 3.0 stuff - i dont think its that great - more headaches not working or something - it maybe a little faster i have to say - this new flash drive i got is pretty fast 3.0 but have to use 2.0 for screen shots - its always something -

about my Sig - i tried to fill it out - and for some reason - its not working out - i dont seem to be doing it right so i gave up on it - i am sure its something very simple i am missing -

would make it easier for me also if i can get it filled out so everyone can see it - i am on 4.7 now - 2 hours prime - seems fine - next week - i am putting the stock fans on - and then will do prime again and leave it for 12 hours if it makes it - i need my liquid temps lower - and i need more fan power to do it - my room is very warm - so i need the higher speed fans - and open windows if i am going to give it a fair chance -

of course once its stable - and i just use the computer for normal use - it wont hardly go full load and fans wont be a issue for noise - - i can control with Chill software - and that was my goal - to control the fans from software -

to think all this time - i had them and never installed them because everyone was changing them out - i figured they were no good - etc, - goes to show - best to try for yourself first and then decide if you like a change - now i have to open it up again and change them out - i would have been done by now - but its fine - i will add a few fan filters on my side window anyway and add another side fan also -

one side fan fits fine - but the other one is too close to the cooler and cant fit it there - i have to make it sit lower on the side window - so i will try a nice Velcro all around with that fan and plug it right in the board header on the bottom -

then i would have total control off all my fans - others fans are on Fan controller -

if you can walk me thru to filling out my Sig - i give it another shot -


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I do know that my GB board still does not report my voltages correctly for the 3.3V, 5V and 12V lines (annoying).


This is normal. Most (all?) of the boards report those incorrectly.


----------



## VettePilot

How many are running the z77 G1 board? I ahve been looking at this board a lot over the MSI mpower because of its ability to run Dual x16 GPU's I know most say it will not come close to needing that bandwidth but it is nice to have for the future. I made the mistake of not researching enough on my last build with which mobo to get and I have had plenty of issues with mine. It is time for an upgrade. Plus I really like the green accents of the board.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> How many are running the z77 G1 board? I ahve been looking at this board a lot over the MSI mpower because of its ability to run Dual x16 GPU's I know most say it will not come close to needing that bandwidth but it is nice to have for the future. I made the mistake of not researching enough on my last build with which mobo to get and I have had plenty of issues with mine. It is time for an upgrade. Plus I really like the green accents of the board.


here is the official-*gigabyte-g1-sniper*-3-m3-owners-thread-club.


----------



## Belial

Were those anandtech benches occt software reports? I thought that was like their multimeter reading (I'm not sure what tool they used or how you hook up a tool to JUST the vrm...), not software readings. Lol well that don't mean ****. Yea after further conversation with the guy it was clear he had no clue what he's talking about. He's said some questionable stuff before too. Like he was going about how its impossible to get close to 5ghz on IB because it runs so hot, not because of his experience (to be clear, 4.5ghz is close to 5ghz, but he thinks that's unlikely too on ib...), but based on a silly anandtech article that did not delid, when I told him id be delidding and the only reason ib gets hot is because you need to delid.... anyways, I don't need to explain delidding to you guys. Just can't believe some people think delidding is a bad idea or something...

So I bought the ud3h z77! I used to use a biostar 3+1 phase board, I sawed an am2 heatsink to really thin strip and thermal taped it onto the vrm, it definetly saved th board (it was hitting very close to its 90*c limit in small ffts, the heatsink got very hot but did its job to allow me to use a $30 mobo to overclock like I had a $80 mobo).

I was thinking of doing the same thing to the ud3h - putting vrm heatsink with a ghetto mod again (hey, a sawed am2 heatsink will outperform any copper enzotech or any vrm heatsink you can buy!) On that top row.

My question though, is it relevant? Or is that top row only like iGPU, which ill be disabling since I got a discrete gpu. I mean, if they even run cool but are related to the cpu,ni don't mind putting it on, but if its unrelated, I won't bother. I do plan to push 1.4+ vcore on this ivy bridge, I will be pushing as far as possible with a delidded, nh-d14, ib build for 24/7 overclock.

Thanks.


----------



## Belial

Were those anandtech benches occt software reports? I thought that was like their multimeter reading (I'm not sure what tool they used or how you hook up a tool to JUST the vrm...), not software readings. Lol well that don't mean ****. Yea after further conversation with the guy it was clear he had no clue what he's talking about. He's said some questionable stuff before too. Like he was going about how its impossible to get close to 5ghz on IB because it runs so hot, not because of his experience (to be clear, 4.5ghz is close to 5ghz, but he thinks that's unlikely too on ib...), but based on a silly anandtech article that did not delid, when I told him id be delidding and the only reason ib gets hot is because you need to delid.... anyways, I don't need to explain delidding to you guys. Just can't believe some people think delidding is a bad idea or something...

So I bought the ud3h z77! I used to use a biostar 3+1 phase board, I sawed an am2 heatsink to really thin strip and thermal taped it onto the vrm, it definetly saved th board (it was hitting very close to its 90*c limit in small ffts, the heatsink got very hot but did its job to allow me to use a $30 mobo to overclock like I had a $80 mobo).

I was thinking of doing the same thing to the ud3h - putting vrm heatsink with a ghetto mod again (hey, a sawed am2 heatsink will outperform any copper enzotech or any vrm heatsink you can buy!) On that top row.

My question though, is it relevant? Or is that top row only like iGPU, which ill be disabling since I got a discrete gpu. I mean, if they even run cool but are related to the cpu,ni don't mind putting it on, but if its unrelated, I won't bother. I do plan to push 1.4+ vcore on this ivy bridge, I will be pushing as far as possible with a delidded, nh-d14, ib build for 24/7 overclock.

Thanks.


----------



## expresso

Can someone explain to me - what is delidded ?

i keep reading it on here - something you do to the chip ? to lower the temps - does it void the warranty ? if done -

how hard is it to do ? and would it be covered under the intel insurance plan which i purchased just in case - but dosnt start to Feb. 6

so have to watch it till then









thanks


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Can someone explain to me - what is delidded ?
> 
> i keep reading it on here - something you do to the chip ? to lower the temps - does it void the warranty ? if done -
> 
> how hard is it to do ? and would it be covered under the intel insurance plan which i purchased just in case - but dosnt start to Feb. 6
> 
> so have to watch it till then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club

Obviously voids the warranty. Even Intel Tuning plan won't cover it.


----------



## Belial

so no one knows what those VRMs are on top of the UD3h?



I sawed my am2 heatsink to go on top, man it was a pain because there's a couple transistors in there that are slightly taller than the mosfets.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I did a quick 2 hour prime last night - and it was fine - so i am not touching my settings just yet - i have it on XMP profile - and i upped the volts to 1.55 for the ram
> 
> as for the screen shots - i think i did some - but whats strange is - i have 3.0 ports on my case and when i used a 2.0 flash drive - it worked - now i got a 3.0 flash drive and it dosnt work - i cant make screen prints - that sucks - you know all this 3.0 stuff - i dont think its that great - more headaches not working or something - it maybe a little faster i have to say - this new flash drive i got is pretty fast 3.0 but have to use 2.0 for screen shots - its always something -
> 
> about my Sig - i tried to fill it out - and for some reason - its not working out - i dont seem to be doing it right so i gave up on it - i am sure its something very simple i am missing -
> 
> would make it easier for me also if i can get it filled out so everyone can see it - i am on 4.7 now - 2 hours prime - seems fine - next week - i am putting the stock fans on - and then will do prime again and leave it for 12 hours if it makes it - i need my liquid temps lower - and i need more fan power to do it - my room is very warm - so i need the higher speed fans - and open windows if i am going to give it a fair chance -
> 
> of course once its stable - and i just use the computer for normal use - it wont hardly go full load and fans wont be a issue for noise - - i can control with Chill software - and that was my goal - to control the fans from software -
> 
> to think all this time - i had them and never installed them because everyone was changing them out - i figured they were no good - etc, - goes to show - best to try for yourself first and then decide if you like a change - now i have to open it up again and change them out - i would have been done by now - but its fine - i will add a few fan filters on my side window anyway and add another side fan also -
> 
> one side fan fits fine - but the other one is too close to the cooler and cant fit it there - i have to make it sit lower on the side window - so i will try a nice Velcro all around with that fan and plug it right in the board header on the bottom -
> 
> then i would have total control off all my fans - others fans are on Fan controller -
> 
> 
> 
> if you can walk me thru to filling out my Sig - i give it another shot -


click on the "rigbuilder" button in the upper right of the screen, then click on "create rig""


----------



## eBombzor

Should I disable any power saving features on my i3 3220 for more performance?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> hahaha.
> 
> Anandtech said they used a tool to measure the actual vcore coming from the boards.
> 
> I'm not really sure what the guy was getting at. He said he thinks the extreme4 is a better board and he'd never buy gigabyte because 'they dont report real vcore', but it doesnt even sound like its not reporting vcore in software or monitoring, it's just that with a multimeter of some sort hooked up, gigabyte boards might not report actual vcore (weird to say, i know) OR the results are... too good to be true?
> 
> I'm not really sure, like this guy is adamant that gigabyte boards are totally untrustworthy. However, even if he has a point, the idea that you should buy the Extreme4 is pretty stupid, for sure, lol. If he had a valid point, I would've considered going with Biostar instaed.


the AT reviewer failed to realize that when he tested the board CPUz was showing the VTT instead of the vCORE!! it is an early bug that cpuz always has with gigabyte's boards, however he could have used ET6 but ET6 wont give him a graph like that. haha he doesn't know how to measure vcore correctly, he used CPuz, OCCT uses CPUz for vcore readings and that is what he used, it is the most inaccurate way to measure vcore, he might as well have guessed. He also went ahead and stated his measurements were of ripple, which can't be measured by software.
The GB boards he tested all have voltage read points, if he owned a DMM he should have measured from there, which he didn't. Those are OCCT graphs, it is so sad it poisoned the minds of many into thinking first that ripple can be measured from vcore and second that you can accurately measure vcore through software.

sorry i repeated myself like 20 times in that paragraph, sometimes thing piss me off so much that my mind just goes nuts. lol


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> so no one knows what those VRMs are on top of the UD3h?
> 
> 
> 
> I sawed my am2 heatsink to go on top, man it was a pain because there's a couple transistors in there that are slightly taller than the mosfets.


the ones to the far right which are unheatinked are for iGPU, the rest are the vcore. They don't need heatsinks, if they did need them then they wodul be sinked. However many people complained and thus with the UD4h they added more heatsinks for decor.


----------



## Geezerman

Now that boards like the UD3H, Extreme4, GD65 have been out for awhile, has anyone kept track of the stats on burnt out boards due to overclocking? I suspect the UD3H has held up nicely.

By the way SIN0822, you have some of the best reviews I have ever seen. I would be interested in your view on the GD65 compared to the UD3H and UD5H as to quality of compnents used. ( notice I said quality of components, not just phase counts, I'm learning







) I'm leaning toward a UD5H myself, but the UD3h , GD65 , and Extreme6 look very respectable as well.

Thanks


----------



## Sin0822

i haven't used the GD65 but MSi tends to use decent components.

UD5H is a great board.

Thanks BTW,it is nice to see people read my reviews haha


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i haven't used the GD65 but MSi tends to use decent components.
> 
> UD5H is a great board.
> 
> Thanks BTW,it is nice to see people read my reviews haha


I read your most excellent review of the UD3H, and how you said that it was capable of delivery even more juice than the UD5H. This surprised me, since I assumed the UD5H would be better. Is the circuit design of the UD5H , in general, better than the UD3H?

I showed a salesguy at my local PC parts store your reviews, and he said, " Wow, he even removes the heatsinks.." ..imagine that...ha..


----------



## Belial

the ud3h is better than the ud5h?

im curious what you think of the biostar boards sin.


----------



## Belial

wrong thread


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> the ud3h is better than the ud5h?
> 
> im curious what you think of the biostar boards sin.


He didn't say the UDH3 was better than the UDH5. He said, "Each one of the phases on the Z77X-UD3H can provide almost twice the current to the CPU as the phases on the Z77X-UD5H, and the Z77X-UD5H provides more than you would ever need on any platform"

I'm assuming the UDH5 has more phases than the UDH3, but each UDH5 phase can provide less current than each phase on the UDH3.
That's why I was curious of the circuit analysis of the UDH3 compared to the UDH5.
Perhaps the UDH3 is more advanced, in circuit design , than the UDH5, and just maybe Gigabyte gave the UDH5 more phases just because people expect to see more phases on the higher end boards, even though the UDH3 proves you don't have to have more phases.
I'm assuming a lot here, and I'm just a noob when it comes to all of this stuff.

*Here's the entire paragraph from his UDH3 review:

"Now I read a "preview" in where the reviewer went and said that he thought 6 phases wasn't enough for extreme OC, well he should take a look at HWBot and see the UD3H holding its own against the competition. Now of course everyone has their doubts about a 6-phase VRM, but then again why the hell would GIGABYTE ever add voltage read points, on-board buttons, dual BIOS with switch, extra PCI-E power for only 2-way GPU setups, and a POST code display to a board that couldn't do over 6.5GHz? The answer is GIGABYTE would never add those features to a board that isn't capable of extreme LN2 OC, as it would backfire. While this board is great for a long life in a case, it can also call a bench table home sweet home. Each one of the phases on the Z77X-UD3H can provide almost twice the current to the CPU as the phases on the Z77X-UD5H, and the Z77X-UD5H provides more than you would ever need on any platform. We are talking about an easy 180+A from the Z77X-UD3H under air, and over 300A under LN2 as the limit MOSFET is rated 58.8A at 25C (you would have a lower temperature under LN2). The limiting factor isn't the phase count, more so the CPU. The CPUs in existence today cannot pull that much power; 180A is insane and 300A is outrageous. GIGABYTE is finally putting the cork in the bottle with the phase wars, so guys, get ready to see some extremely high quality VRMs with lower phase counts! I just hope other manufacturers follow suite so that I can stop answering questions about the viability of 6 and 8 phase motherboards from Tier 1 companies, and so that more people are educated about phase quality over quantity. I guess this must be a first for a 6-phase board ":*


----------



## Belial

no, but you said the ud3h supplies more juice than the ud5h (or that he had said that, more specifically). Sorry I haven't watched all his videos, I know I should ^^


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> no, but you said the ud3h supplies more juice than the ud5h (or that he had said that, more specifically). Sorry I haven't watched all his videos, I know I should ^^


please forgive my exclusion of "Each one of the phases "


----------



## stepek

Afternoon,

I did a quick search before posting (this is normally posted by idots who get shamed in the very next post with a link to the correct answer, be nice







) but i hve an issue with my UD5H Rev 1.1 (i have also posted this on the gig uk forum, but i wanted to hedge my bests for a good answer, or any answer tbh.

so anyways...I bought and build my new machine over the weekend, i had planned to have the following drive config

Boot Drive (Win7)

Crutial m4 256gb mSATA SSD (sata2|Port5) (As required)

then a Raid 5 array consisting of

3tb Seagate Baracuda (sata2|Port2)
3tb Seagate Baracuda (sata2|Port3)
3tb Seagate Baracuda (sata2|Port4)

I switch the bios from ACHI to Raid as instructed (all drives shown in BIOS as possible boot drives), and did a test install to the SSD to ensure all was connected to the system.

Updated the bios (Version F14) so that the Z77 Raid controller could see the 3tb drives (as prior, it was going to a blank screen on the raid controller configuration screen), and set up an Array (Volume0) and assigned the three Seagate drives to it.

Once done, only the Volume0 array appears in the possible boot drives for the bios to boot from.

The SSD can be seen by the controller but not the bios as a boot drive.

Any ideas what switch i have missed to get this working.

Currently have the z77 set to ACHI and a raid 1 set up using the secondary on board raid controller, which is not ideal.


----------



## barkeater

can't you just connect the msata only and install OS. Then connect the 3 3TB drives and set up your raid?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I did a quick 2 hour prime last night - and it was fine - so i am not touching my settings just yet - i have it on XMP profile - and i upped the volts to 1.55 for the ram
> 
> as for the screen shots - i think i did some - but whats strange is - i have 3.0 ports on my case and when i used a 2.0 flash drive - it worked - now i got a 3.0 flash drive and it dosnt work - i cant make screen prints - that sucks - you know all this 3.0 stuff - i dont think its that great - more headaches not working or something - it maybe a little faster i have to say - this new flash drive i got is pretty fast 3.0 but have to use 2.0 for screen shots - its always something -
> 
> about my Sig - i tried to fill it out - and for some reason - its not working out - i dont seem to be doing it right so i gave up on it - i am sure its something very simple i am missing -
> 
> would make it easier for me also if i can get it filled out so everyone can see it - i am on 4.7 now - 2 hours prime - seems fine - next week - i am putting the stock fans on - and then will do prime again and leave it for 12 hours if it makes it - i need my liquid temps lower - and i need more fan power to do it - my room is very warm - so i need the higher speed fans - and open windows if i am going to give it a fair chance -
> 
> of course once its stable - and i just use the computer for normal use - it wont hardly go full load and fans wont be a issue for noise - - i can control with Chill software - and that was my goal - to control the fans from software -
> 
> to think all this time - i had them and never installed them because everyone was changing them out - i figured they were no good - etc, - goes to show - best to try for yourself first and then decide if you like a change - now i have to open it up again and change them out - i would have been done by now - but its fine - i will add a few fan filters on my side window anyway and add another side fan also -
> 
> one side fan fits fine - but the other one is too close to the cooler and cant fit it there - i have to make it sit lower on the side window - so i will try a nice Velcro all around with that fan and plug it right in the board header on the bottom -
> 
> then i would have total control off all my fans - others fans are on Fan controller -
> 
> if you can walk me thru to filling out my Sig - i give it another shot -


Here is my 4800 OC at vcor 2.6V on the ud5: http://www.mediafire.com/?cc2062j5cj8foygmtpg2ex8cca2qeme


----------



## stepek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> can't you just connect the msata only and install OS. Then connect the 3 3TB drives and set up your raid?


thanks for the advice, i flashed the bios again, and now its working how it should do, i have no idea why, but now i have the raid set how i wanted it, and the msata running as the primary os drive.

right, off to break something else now


----------



## eBombzor

So I've been looking around trying to improve SSD performance. I saw an article on Toms about how CPU power savings could lower performance.

They don't recommend disabling C1E or EIST but they never mentioned the "deep" C States. When they say C states, do they mean C3/C6 states? Should I disable those options for better performance?


----------



## stickg1

Where is LLC option on UD3H? I'm trying to help a friend with his OC on Steam.


----------



## DeXel

Vcore loadline calibration.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Vcore loadline calibration.


Lol, I guess he didn't know LLC meant Load Line Calibration, maybe I should have elaborated on that for him. What are the settings? I want him around 75% unless you guys think he should set it otherwise. What about PWM Phase Control, what are the settings for those?


----------



## DeXel

100% is Extreme, about 80ish is Turbo. Most people use Turbo.

http://img52.imageshack.us/i/97190065.jpg/

From here.


----------



## DeXel

Delete


----------



## stickg1

Thanks man, I like these UD3H boards. I kind of wanted one. At first I wanted the Extreme6 but I had some extra money to spend and went with the P8Z77-V PRO thinking it would be pure win. IT was awful, the glitchiest board I have ever used. BIOS settings didn't stick in windows, the PC wouldnt stay turned off, it would turn itself on after a few minutes. Flashing the BIOS was a crapshoot, usually took 3 or 4 tries to get it right and you had to make sure your SSD was unplugged during BIOS flash which I found strange. Then my sound chip died, this was all in 30 days of owning it.

So I was torn between the Extreme6 and UD3H, micro center is about 6 hours away and my mom just so happened to be passing one so I had her get me another 3570K (my first one needed like 1.41v for 4.5GHz) and a motherboard. They ran out of the UD3H so I got the Extreme6. It's a good board but the VRMs dont even come close to those on the UD3H.


----------



## expresso

i got a question - i tried for 4.8 - one worker always stops in prime around the 17 min to 25 min mark -

load temps get to 100C at times - i put my Vcore at 1.410 -

just wondering what are the avg. Vcore settings for a stable 4.8 OC ? i know its most likely not worth the extra Vcore -

since i got 4.7 fine at 1.355 V

i changed out my fans - put the stock fans - helped some - not the big jump i expected but its worth it - to try - i dont mind them at all and can be adjusted easily with the Chill software -

another thing - does anyone know the limit of the antec 920 cooler ? i mean how much can it drop the temps before it just wont any more

my liquid temps were around 37c at full load - with 4.8 -

for example - if i changed out the fans and put on high speed delts fans on the cooler - used a fan controller - giving 3 times the pressure of the stock fans if not more -

would that make any different with the liquid temps ? or is this the limit for this cooler ?

would be fun to try it out - but dont want to waste money and time if the cooler can do much more either way -

also - would anyone know if the cooler pump etc, would work the same way if i dont plug the fans using the cooler cable - and just plug the cable in the CPU header - and run the fans off a fan controller - would the pump still work correctly and just Chill software not work to control the fan ?

or does it all have to connected for the system to work -

thanks - for now back to my 4.7 -

heres a screen shot - 4.8 - for a very short time before i stopped it - since one of the workers stopped

another time - on the Real Temps program - its giving me a LOG sigh under one my cores - does it store this log temp file somewhere ? i am not able to find it etc, - maybe i can read it and see what the log error is

i have two hotter cores - with one being the hottest from the rest - and its not that close - so those hot temps are stopping me from trying more volts -

how much more volts can this 3770k handle safely ?


----------



## expresso

but dont want to waste money and time if the cooler cant do much more either way


----------



## chillidog

hi all
had some bad luck today with my old asus sabertoothz77(well say old only two months old) it packed up on us any way i went with a gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H and am total new to gigabyte motherboards
so am woundering if anyone can help us with manual oc to 4.5 or anyone got an template
set up : GA-Z77X-UD3H ,intell i5 357ok,antec 920, 8 gig of Corsair Vengeance 8Gb DDR3 1600

many thx in advance


----------



## JRuxGaming

I got my UD5H today, along with everything else. I have my rig up and running with no issues. I have the 3770K with 12GB of Corsair Vengeance RAM and the Phanteks TC14PE CPU Cooler. I need some help with overclocking, however. What should I set my Vcore to, if I want a steady 4.6 clock.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> I got my UD5H today, along with everything else. I have my rig up and running with no issues. I have the 3770K with 12GB of Corsair Vengeance RAM and the Phanteks TC14PE CPU Cooler. I need some help with overclocking, however. What should I set my Vcore to, if I want a steady 4.6 clock.


It's hard to say about vCore as every single chip, even though its the same model, is different. I would say start at 1.3v and work your way up or down from there.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> I got my UD5H today, along with everything else. I have my rig up and running with no issues. I have the 3770K with 12GB of Corsair Vengeance RAM and the Phanteks TC14PE CPU Cooler. I need some help with overclocking, however. What should I set my Vcore to, if I want a steady 4.6 clock.


i am running at 1.355 Vcore - with 4.7 , its fine for me , i may be able to get away with 1.35 or 1.3 but i really havnt tested at those lower Vcore ,

dosnt hurt to try , some people get very low Vcore ,,

here is a link to a review which shows a 4.8 at a low Vcore , i am not sure if its true or not , seems too low

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/08/28/gigabyte_z77xud5h_lga_1155_motherboard_review/7

i havnt seen anyone on here with that low a Vcore with 4.8 , i dont know if this guy really tested his system or just booted into windows,

he claims its a solid OC ,

i was tempted to put my Vcore at that level , but i cant get stable at 4.8 with 1.4 Vcore ,


----------



## JRuxGaming

I have a stable 4.4 at 1.35 Vcore right now. And at idle temps I am running ~35 C. I will see if I can run a higher OC when I get home.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> I have a stable 4.4 at 1.35 Vcore right now. And at idle temps I am running ~35 C. I will see if I can run a higher OC when I get home.


Nice, you should be fine up to 4.7 , i have my Vcore at 1.355 at 4.7 , but maybe its ok even at 1.35 ,

i have to try it also just to see if i can lower it bit ,

my idle temps are 36C liquid , very quiet on low fans with warm room , no problems so far


----------



## JRuxGaming

I just did a remote connection via TeamViewer to my home PC. I am stable at 28-32 C at idle now.


----------



## Vispor

I keep getting BSOD during Windows install with a GA-Z77X-UD3H. 2500k stock, and I have tried 3 different sets of RAM. The current set is on the QVL.

Anyone having similar troubles?


----------



## DeXel

Try without the RAID card that you mentioned in the other thread. RAID cards can have huge incompatibility issues. I don't think it's ram, but run memtest if you want.


----------



## Vispor

Well I kept the RAID card but changed the hard drives. Using 2 WD Blacks instead of 4 WD Reds. Seems to be going smooth now.


----------



## Vispor

Sorry for double post but has anyone been able to get a 3TB drive to work correctly? I can only format it to 2048GB and it won't let me touch the other 700~GB.


----------



## stepek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vispor*
> 
> Sorry for double post but has anyone been able to get a 3TB drive to work correctly? I can only format it to 2048GB and it won't let me touch the other 700~GB.


i assume you are using windows, if its windows 7, you will be able to create the partition as a dynamic dive, (start > control panel > Administrative Tools > Computer Management > Storage > Disk Management )

Initilise your drive, and rather than create a simple 2tb drive, create a dynamic drive, and it should allow you to create one upto the max size of your drive.

Do you only have one of the 3tb drives?


----------



## DeXel

You have to format it with GUID Partition table instead of MBR. MBR limit is roughly 2 with something TB.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You have to format it with GUID Partition table instead of MBR. MBR limit is roughly 2 with something TB.


That's a very informative link. Thanks, DeXel.


----------



## chillidog

anyone can help us pls with post #4550


----------



## JRuxGaming

With the UD5H, when you have it controlling the fans via PWM, does it just let your air cooler passive cool unless you are doing something CPU intensive?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> anyone can help us pls with post #4550


here is a few bios pic's on the settings i have got, can anyone tell us if i need to change anything?? prime 95 for an hour and a half all ok and the temps max out at 82 on one core others are shown in pics


----------



## josephimports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> here is a few bios pic's on the settings i have got, can anyone tell us if i need to change anything?? prime 95 for an hour and a half all ok and the temps max out at 82 on one core others are shown in pics


Technically, its fine if its stable. You should try lowering vcore by setting llc to turbo and leaving offset at 0,00. Run Cinebench and 3dmark11 physics test and check for whea errors. If ok, run prime. But, by the screenshots posted, your chip is vcore hungry.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Apparently it was the PWM converter that comes with the CPU cooler. I removed the converter so it is only a three pin splitter to the CPU fan header. Now it runs without a hitch.


----------



## expresso

i am having a issue with the 3.0 usb ports , is anyone else have issues and get them working again at 3.0 speeds with a flash drive etc, ?

i purchase a flash drive patriot rage model , but it dosnt show up in my computer , sometimes it does and most times it dosnt , it is fast when i can see it and use it , i figured it was defective and returned it for another one , but its the same thing .

i called gigabyte support , not much help in telling me which Via hub i have on my board etc, i have version 1.1 UD5H

usb 2.0 are fine , i did tried my external passport WD drive 3.0 and that works fine , shows up easily each time

i read about trying to upgrade drivers or Via firmware etc, but if my passport drive works , i am not looking to make changes i am not sure which version Via i have etc,

has anyone else had a similar issue and how was it resovled if it was ?

i just wanted a small thumb drive to use in my front ports

i did try my rear ports also and it acts the same as the front ports

if i cant figure it out , i may just return this one again and stick with 2.0 or get another passport 3.0 which works fine ,

now i see the difference in speed and dont want to get a 2.0 thumb drive now


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephimports*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> quote]
> 
> Technically, its fine if its stable. You should try lowering vcore by setting llc to turbo and leaving offset at 0,00. Run Cinebench and 3dmark11 physics test and check for whea errors. If ok, run prime. But, by the screenshots posted, your chip is vcore hungry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so is this a good or bad thing you are saying about the chip??
> also would i need to change any of the c states settings??
Click to expand...


----------



## expresso

i Just figure out how to make the USB 3.0 work and take screen shots ,

i didnt install any new drivers or firmware from Via etc, i am on Win 8 and its in the bios

you have to put XHCI mode to Smart Auto and leave XHCI Pre Boot Driver to enabled

thats it - now my 3.0 usb flash drive works

it does take a little longer to boot and before windows shows in My Computer devices but it does show up

i was ready to return this one also ,,

manual page 55 ,

now can someone tell me what to change on CPU PLL and CPU VTT

there are on AUTO now

i want to see if i can lower my temps a little with some changes

here are my screen shots , i dont want to guess and change things now since its working great , i like to know what i can change or try before doing it

thanks


----------



## kesawi

I have a Z77X-UD5H mother board. I am playing around with Hyper-V in Windows 8 and enabled Intel Virtualization Technology in the BIOS. When I boot into windows CPU-Z showed the BCLK sitting at 96MHz rather than 100MHz. I ran a few benchmarks and the scores were well below normal. Both BIOS and Easy Tune 6 showed the BCLK being set at 100MHZ. I disabled IVT in the BIOS and things returned back to normal. Has anyone encountered this and if so found a solution? I'm running a modified F15t BIOS.


----------



## DeXel

I have Virtualization enabled and getting 100Mhz. I am using F15m BIOS. You can also try to set BCLK to 101 (or even 100.1 if that can be set, can't remember), and it should fix it.


----------



## eBombzor

What's Intel Virtualization Technology? Can't find anything online that tells me if I should enable it or not. I have an i3, will it boost my performance?


----------



## DeXel

It's for running a guest OS in your OS aka a virtual machine. You don't it unless you know what it is.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It's for running a guest OS in your OS aka a virtual machine. You don't it unless you know what it is.


Oh ok thanks.


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I have Virtualization enabled and getting 100Mhz. I am using F15m BIOS. You can also try to set BCLK to 101 (or even 100.1 if that can be set, can't remember), and it should fix it.


I did try increasing the BCLK to 101MHz in both the BIOS and ET6, however it only increased to 97MHz under CPU-Z.


----------



## devilpriest

Hi, guys. I am a proud owner of a Gigabyte z77-D3H and an i5-3570k CPU. I have the latest uefi bios. Can someone tell me the settings that I should use to get a good ovk from my chip? So far I cannot seem to go past 4.3 without setting the voltage beyond 1.3v; I've seen people get 4.5 with 1.272v... what are your settings? What's the most you can get out of a z77-d3h and a i5-3570k without going past 1.4v?


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BobLeProf*
> 
> I've been using Windows 8 64-bit (CP, RP, final) on my UD5H for some time now and the main issues I have seen are problems with SOME devices on the USB 3.0 VIA ports (no issues for me on the USB 3,0 Intel port, no issues with the USB 2.0 ports).
> I am now using BIOS F15p and was having some problems with sudden and unexpected system reboots for no apparent reason until I cleared CMOS.
> Oh, and I am also still using MBR. Playing around with a UEFI install of Windows 8, I have not seen any significant difference for me, so I am in no hurry to abandon MBR. I'll probably use UEFI for my next clean install though.


It is the same in 7. I have made a few posts here and in the gigabyte section on tweaktown regarding this with no useful responses. I have had issues with the VIA ports running USB 2.0 devices that work fine using the Intel ports which also had no issues on my x58 board.


----------



## Vitaminx

Does anyone here own both an AX power supply and a Gigabyte UP5 TH by chance? Reason I ask is because I've just built my signature rig and ran across an odd issue. The 24 pin motherboard power connector that came with the Corsair AX 750 PSU I have fits in the motherboard connection easily enough. It snaps in and the tab bites down on the lip. But I also purchased the individually sleeved cables for this power supply since I thought they looked pretty decent for the price. I'm having trouble fitting the 24 pin into the corresponding connection on the motherboard now. I told Corsair this and they were nice enough to ship out an entirely new set. Still, it just does not want to snap in and the tab is not biting down on the lip on the connection. I'm just wondering if anyone has experienced power supply cables not snapping in on motherboards? I'm just wondering if its fine to use like that. I'd rather not just keep pressing down on the connector to force it on, because the motherboard is experiencing some serious bending when I do this and I don't know how much it would take before something bad happens


----------



## SMK

Anyone with UD5H running bios f15q have problems with the memory divider stuck @ 1600, no matter how its set?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SMK*
> 
> Anyone with UD5H running bios f15q have problems with the memory divider stuck @ 1600, no matter how its set?


No.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> It is the same in 7. I have made a few posts here and in the gigabyte section on tweaktown regarding this with no useful responses. I have had issues with the VIA ports running USB 2.0 devices that work fine using the Intel ports which also had no issues on my x58 board.


I am not sure if this applies to you but i just got my usb ports workings 3.0 which were giving me a hard time with not showing flash drives -

i am using the UD5H 1.1 board , and i made the changes in the bios and they all work fine now and the 3.0 ports work before going in the OS , which before they didnt

if you have the same board , its on page 55 in the manual , or else double check your manual , i had to change a setting to Smart Auto , and that solved it for me

its worth a shot,


----------



## expresso

is anyone having problems with the latest beta bios ?

i think its 15q for the UD5H board ?

if so , what kind of problems are you having that you didnt have and what improvements do you feel this new bios brings ?

i was told from Gigabyte that you can flash back to your original bios if you didnt like the new one , has anyone ever flashed back ?


----------



## SMK

I'll try clearing the cmos, but right now I have it set for 1866 and it boots and runs at 1600.


----------



## Billys7

Aloha guys..my new ud3h came with F7 bios..should i change it?

I bought 4x4 vengeance lp 1600mhz..and i get bsod with 2 sticks(2x4) in memtest..but with the other stick(again 2x4) is running fine..

thank you


----------



## SMK

Bad stick?

Clearing cmos got it to set the divide at 1866.

Now it's set for raid but acting like it's still set for ahci... time to flash back to F14


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> I am not sure if this applies to you but i just got my usb ports workings 3.0 which were giving me a hard time with not showing flash drives -
> 
> i am using the UD5H 1.1 board , and i made the changes in the bios and they all work fine now and the 3.0 ports work before going in the OS , which before they didnt
> 
> if you have the same board , its on page 55 in the manual , or else double check your manual , i had to change a setting to Smart Auto , and that solved it for me
> 
> its worth a shot,


Yeah, I am familiar with that setting. I tried everything on that page in different combinations (on 3 different bios versions). The default for my UD3H is Smart Auto. I wasted a full day just trying to get the headset to work on the VIA ports with no success. I only have to worry about it if I don't boot into windows because then I have to swap my headset with my mouse on the intel ports to get mouse support.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Yeah, I am familiar with that setting. I tried everything on that page in different combinations (on 3 different bios versions). The default for my UD3H is Smart Auto. I wasted a full day just trying to get the headset to work on the VIA ports with no success. I only have to worry about it if I don't boot into windows because then I have to swap my headset with my mouse on the intel ports to get mouse support.


why dont you put all the settings to stock on that page , just change that one setting to smart auto , i forgot which it is now ,,

i know

pre boot driver is enabled

then the next one i think is the one you put to smart auto , you may have to skip one then next one is smart auto

thats all i did , my 3.0 usb work now with my flash drive and i can take screen shots , it works pre boot also - before gettin in the OS

now about the audio from the front panel , i actually didnt ever try mines , i never used them before but since i have them now , i will try them also , i hope they do work so i dont have to try to figure that out , i may not do anything about it if it didnt work

i have to try them


----------



## bam06005

Hi all -

I am getting a new UD3H and 3570k in a few weeks and am planning for 4.5Ghz OC. I was wondering if you guys - seeing as you are pros with the gigabyte bios - could help me out with a general tutorial. This is my absolute first time doing any cpu overclocking. If you could either help me here discussing it or point me to some guides, I'd appreciate it (I have watched videos and read some pretty complicated guides already).

So the general gist is the Ivy Bridge don't require any BCLK tweaks, so leaving it on the default 100.00 and overclock changing the multiplier is the way to go. From what I can tell, this is extremely simple with most mainstream motherboards - leave most on Auto and just change the multiplier. However, I'm running into some more complicated options. For instance, I don't want my 4.5 overclock to be on 24/7, I want the system to drop down when idling so I don't want to disable turbo. So I saw another guide that left the multiplier at default but changed all the turbo settings. And this is where I get lost. Not to mention the rest of the many options in bios. Basically I want a tried and tested 4.5 overclock setting - I don't want to ramp up voltage and go all crazy. Stock to 1.25v is a good range. I also have a Silver Arrow Extreme so a mild 4.5 overclock should be at good temps during the Prime95 12-24 hr stress test.

Thanks for your help. Please let me know if there is any other info I can provide.

EDIT: Do I have to update the bios before doing any of this?

I just found a really succinct guide that says this:

"1) Hit F1 in BIOS to turn off that annoying 3D BIOS thing and get a standard menu
2) Go into MIT -> Advanced Frequency Settings, and set all the Turbo Boost settings (1-core through 4-core) to 44
3) Go into MIT -> Advanced Voltage Settings, and set the CPU Vcore to 1.23V
4) Benchmark system with Prime95 for at least 6 hours; if stable, lower Vcore by 0.01V and try again"

Is that accurate? Seems too simple!


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> Hi all -
> 
> I am getting a new UD3H and 3570k in a few weeks and am planning for 4.5Ghz OC. I was wondering if you guys - seeing as you are pros with the gigabyte bios - could help me out with a general tutorial. This is my absolute first time doing any cpu overclocking. If you could either help me here discussing it or point me to some guides, I'd appreciate it (I have watched videos and read some pretty complicated guides already).
> 
> So the general gist is the Ivy Bridge don't require any BCLK tweaks, so leaving it on the default 100.00 and overclock changing the multiplier is the way to go. From what I can tell, this is extremely simple with most mainstream motherboards - leave most on Auto and just change the multiplier. However, I'm running into some more complicated options. For instance, I don't want my 4.5 overclock to be on 24/7, I want the system to drop down when idling so I don't want to disable turbo. So I saw another guide that left the multiplier at default but changed all the turbo settings. And this is where I get lost. Not to mention the rest of the many options in bios. Basically I want a tried and tested 4.5 overclock setting - I don't want to ramp up voltage and go all crazy. Stock to 1.25v is a good range. I also have a Silver Arrow Extreme so a mild 4.5 overclock should be at good temps during the Prime95 12-24 hr stress test.
> 
> Thanks for your help. Please let me know if there is any other info I can provide.
> 
> EDIT: Do I have to update the bios before doing any of this?
> 
> I just found a really succinct guide that says this:
> 
> "1) Hit F1 in BIOS to turn off that annoying 3D BIOS thing and get a standard menu
> 2) Go into MIT -> Advanced Frequency Settings, and set all the Turbo Boost settings (1-core through 4-core) to 44
> 3) Go into MIT -> Advanced Voltage Settings, and set the CPU Vcore to 1.23V
> 4) Benchmark system with Prime95 for at least 6 hours; if stable, lower Vcore by 0.01V and try again"
> 
> Is that accurate? Seems too simple!


that sounds about right , i have the UD5H board - maybe its the same bios i dont know but for 4.5 you should be able to do that easily and keep it as stock so its not steady volts , i have a 4.5 setting but not sure if i have it steady volts , and dont know if your board is the same as mines in the bios etc,

i would just go in and change the turbo settings to 44 or 45 if you wanted 4.5 , i think i have my volts at 1.275 with my 4.5 setting , i have to check when i get a chance , i been running 4.7 with steady volts 1.350 - its fine , i also dont have your chip , i have the 3770k so it may be different

give it a shot , worst case it will not work , just boot back in and put it back the way it was till you figure it out or get someone who has your chip and board to give you some settings


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> that sounds about right , i have the UD5H board - maybe its the same bios i dont know but for 4.5 you should be able to do that easily and keep it as stock so its not steady volts , i have a 4.5 setting but not sure if i have it steady volts , and dont know if your board is the same as mines in the bios etc,
> 
> i would just go in and change the turbo settings to 44 or 45 if you wanted 4.5 , i think i have my volts at 1.275 with my 4.5 setting , i have to check when i get a chance , i been running 4.7 with steady volts 1.350 - its fine , i also dont have your chip , i have the 3770k so it may be different
> 
> give it a shot , worst case it will not work , just boot back in and put it back the way it was till you figure it out or get someone who has your chip and board to give you some settings


I am almost certain the bios are identical to the UD3H. So you just changed all 4 turbo settings to 45, bumped which voltage setting? wouldn't setting the voltage remove it from auto? did you tweak anything else? I'm afraid that if I leave it on auto then my voltage will be all jumpy during testing and produce crazy heat.


----------



## DeXel

You just change multiplier, Vcore and LLC. Anything else works quite well on auto.

F15q has mouse bug for me. Flashed back to F15m.


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You just change multiplier, Vcore and LLC. Anything else works quite well on auto.
> 
> F15q has mouse bug for me. Flashed back to F15m.


But that's for a set voltage OC. I'd rather not run my chip at 100% voltage 24/7. What do you change with LLC?

I found this video, seems really straightforward.


----------



## DeXel

Well, you can change Vcore with fixed value or offset (dynamic) value. You need the second. LLC compensates for Vdroop. I use it on Turbo.


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Well, you can change Vcore with fixed value or offset (dynamic) value. You need the second. LLC compensates for Vdroop. I use it on Turbo.


And what would those settings look like on the 3570k ud3h @ 4.5ghz?


----------



## DeXel

You know there are easy to find once you get the board?

But here

Set Vcore to normal to allow dynamic.


Vcore Loadline Calibration.


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You know there are easy to find once you get the board?
> 
> But here


I actually meant what do you set them as rather than where are they located


----------



## DeXel

They are individual for each CPU. Multiplier x base clock = frequency. Base clock is 100Mhz so 45 multi gives you 4.5Ghz. Start with that, then increase/decrease offset until you are stable and use LLC to compensate vdroop. If you are new to this, start with fixed voltage then eventually switch to offset since it is trickier to get working.


----------



## bam06005

ok cool thanks


----------



## sixor

mine is

[email protected]
no turbo, llc turbo, energy saving on, ram extreme, igp disabled, that is all i think


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> is anyone having problems with the latest beta bios ?
> 
> i think its 15q for the UD5H board ?
> 
> if so , what kind of problems are you having that you didnt have and what improvements do you feel this new bios brings ?
> 
> i was told from Gigabyte that you can flash back to your original bios if you didnt like the new one , has anyone ever flashed back ?


F15q works fine for me, but I can't tell you if it's any "better", although the last few beta's have let me drop my offset a little for 4.5GHz OC under normal use.

But yes, you can always flash to any version of the BIOS if you need to. I often keep a different version on each BIOS on the motherboard, although sometimes it helps to have both flashed with the same BIOS version.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> F15q works fine for me, but I can't tell you if it's any "better", although the last few beta's have let me drop my offset a little for 4.5GHz OC under normal use.
> 
> But yes, you can always flash to any version of the BIOS if you need to. I often keep a different version on each BIOS on the motherboard, although sometimes it helps to have both flashed with the same BIOS version.


Ok thanks , i was thinking of flashing but wanted to wait till its offically released , i am not sure what improvements have been made to the LAN ports ,

since i am not having any problems that i can see for now , i will wait a bit , good to know thats its stable , according to Gigabyte they are all stable even though it shows as Beta ,


----------



## SMK

F15q has mouse bugs for me, also stopped saving any settings I would try to enter. I had to revert back to F14 for it to be usable


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SMK*
> 
> F15q has mouse bugs for me, also stopped saving any settings I would try to enter. I had to revert back to F14 for it to be usable


thanks , good to know , that would drive me crazy , why gigabyte would tell me its fine and its been tested already to be working fine even though its a beta

they also told me my usb 3.0 ports should all be working etc, i asked if there were any settings i can do in the bios to make them work with my flash drive , and pre boot etc,

was told no , they should all work ,, and in the end thats all it was , one change in the bios to , smart auto, and now they are fine

i was only interested because it shows LAN improvement etc,

how did you flash it and flash it back ? did you use Qflash in the bios or @bios software in windows ?

thanks


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> mine is
> 
> [email protected]
> no turbo, llc turbo, energy saving on, ram extreme, igp disabled, that is all i think


cool thanks, i will jot this down for my OC


----------



## eBombzor

I turned off "Full Screen Logo Show". There's now an American Megatrend logo, but nothing else. Isn't there suppose to be a bunch of BIOS checks and POST checks below the logo?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Here is my 4800 OC at vcor 2.6V on the ud5: http://www.mediafire.com/?cc2062j5cj8foygmtpg2ex8cca2qeme


hi by any chance can you send me this link again ? when i click it , it says its not longer in use , have to ask the owner to send another link ?


----------



## Sin0822

vcore 2.6??????


----------



## SMK

I used qflash


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> thanks , good to know , that would drive me crazy , why gigabyte would tell me its fine and its been tested already to be working fine even though its a beta
> 
> they also told me my usb 3.0 ports should all be working etc, i asked if there were any settings i can do in the bios to make them work with my flash drive , and pre boot etc,
> 
> was told no , they should all work ,, and in the end thats all it was , one change in the bios to , smart auto, and now they are fine
> 
> i was only interested because it shows LAN improvement etc,
> 
> how did you flash it and flash it back ? did you use Qflash in the bios or @bios software in windows ?
> 
> thanks


Smart Auto should be the default setting for xhci for recent BIOS versions, I think, although in the early BIOS's it was not.

Use Qflash for BIOS changes, although @BIOS should work fine it's generally recommended not to do BIOS updates from within the OS.
Hit End while booting to go directly to Qflash, or just go into the BIOS and you will see the option. Make sure you already have the BIOS you want to change to on a USB stick when you boot. After the system reboots go into the bios and load optimized defaults, and set up anything else you need, hit F10 to save and reboot.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SMK*
> 
> I used qflash


thanks


----------



## SMK

Turned off c states to stability test, now with them back on it still won't downclock?... this board is awkward.


----------



## DeXel

Enable EIST and set Windows power management to balanced. It will downlock.


----------



## bam06005

Do I need to flash the UD3H bios before overclocking? I have a brand new board coming soon.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Enable EIST and set Windows power management to balanced. It will downlock.


i never though of windows power saving features , i have not been able to keep 4.7 stable with the power features on etc, in the bios ,

now i realize i have my windows on High performance settings , i dont want my monitor ,hard drive etc, go to sleep

do you think that is whats giving me the problem and not being to downclock ?

i am trying it with 4.6 now seems ok but didnt use it enough to be sure , problem is not on load , its during idle , low usage


----------



## DeXel

Yea, you need to be on balanced; otherwise, it won't downclock. You can modify the profile so that your hdd, monitor and etc don't go to sleep.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yea, you need to be on balanced; otherwise, it won't downclock. You can modify the profile so that your hdd, monitor and etc don't go to sleep.


i tried that and it didnt work for me , my system still shuts down , not stable so the windows option is not the reason ,

i just went back to fixed OC which works fine , i tried at least a dozen different settings , options in the bios etc, to get some of the power saving features working and none of them worked for me

i was just looking to keep the temps lower during normal use etc,

i am back to my 4.7 OC fixed Vcore , no down clocking or power saving features , even at full power , this uses so much less than previous systems either way , i am not concerned too much about the wattage usage as opposed to the temps ,

with this settings i get about 37 C to 40 C and a liquid temp of about 36 C from the antec cooler

plenty of room left if TJ max is 105C , in the bios it will shut down at 130C ,

i would like it cooler but unless i want to lower my OC , this the best i can do now , maybe i change out the paste sometime in the future just to see , and its on a custom setting so fans are running at about 800 rpm


----------



## expresso




----------



## DeXel

I am not sure. My system does fine with EIST enabled and fixed voltage.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I am not sure. My system does fine with EIST enabled and fixed voltage.


would you mind sharing your settings ? screen shots of bios ? if you have the same board , chip , maybe i am missing something


----------



## expresso

i know this is a simple thing to do but i can not figure out how to set up my Signature so everyone can see what i have ,

i seen something about a program you run which checks what you have and automatically puts in and saves it, but i cant find it and i keep looking in my settings to find where i can enter this information but dont see it

so if anyone can show me the way ,

thanks


----------



## DeXel

Spoiler: BIOS settings: Spoiler!











To have your rig in your signature, first of all create it. Click on your username then press your rigs and make one.

Then under "Your Forum signatures" -> "Show off your stuff", choose your rig.


----------



## mandrix

Has anyone tried the VIA VL811 Superspeed USB Hub Controller Firmware 0.983?

sin0822 do you recommend this?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> Do I need to flash the UD3H bios before overclocking? I have a brand new board coming soon.


no

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yea, you need to be on balanced; otherwise, it won't downclock. You can modify the profile so that your hdd, monitor and etc don't go to sleep.


I don't think it really matters whether your on balanced or performance or whatever as long as you change everything to "I never want it to turn off". Choosing one of the power plans just determines what the default settings are but you can change them to whatever you want. I keep mine on performance and set so nothing shuts off and my offset oc works just fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*


This "heavy load" might be your issue :O


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*


be interesting to see your temps when at least 2 hrs of prime and not 9 mins i would of throught you be hitting the high 70's into the 80's


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> be interesting to see your temps when at least 2 hrs of prime and not 9 mins i would of throught you be hitting the high 70's into the 80's


yeah when doing prime i can hit 80C , goes up to 90C also at time , backs down , no question my prime load runs hot , stays in the TJ max limit but its right at the limit









now just using my computer , never reaches there so i am not worried , i closed it up and put it under my desk for now , maybe next year , i take it out , make some changes then ,

maybe different case fans this time around , change paste , etc, if all goes well , if i get the itch to do more , i may just do take out the antec and do something different ,

it works fine for now , my temps are not too bad overall ,


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> no
> I don't think it really matters whether your on balanced or performance or whatever as long as you change everything to "I never want it to turn off". Choosing one of the power plans just determines what the default settings are but you can change them to whatever you want. I keep mine on performance and set so nothing shuts off and my offset oc works just fine.
> This "heavy load" might be your issue :O


Once I tried to edit settings of high performance to be exactly the same as balanced. It didn't work. Maybe just me ...

UPDATE: Tried again, and it worked. Probably something just my Windows installation.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Once I tried to edit settings of high performance to be exactly the same as balanced. It didn't work. Maybe just me ...
> 
> UPDATE: Tried again, and it worked. Probably something just my Windows installation.


`
Yep. I keep my boards on high performance, and they downclock/downvolt just fine. I also leave all the bios features like EIST, etc on Auto. I actually get better SSD speeds on the Auto settings than either enabled or disabled. This is for X45 clock. Higher clocks take some tweaking here and there for stability on my boards.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Has anyone tried the VIA VL811 Superspeed USB Hub Controller Firmware 0.983?
> 
> sin0822 do you recommend this?


VL810 is what your board uses unless you have rev 1.1 then its 811. That is the first board with 811. About time they upgraded, VL810 was first used with the P67A-UD7 and the Maixmus 4 Extreme.

But VL811+ is better, it has SuperSpeed Certification: http://www.techpowerup.com/178138/VIA-Labs-VL811+-USB-3.0-Hub-Controller-Obtains-USB-IF-Certification.html

not many controllers have this cert let alone hubs.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> `
> Yep. I keep my boards on high performance, and they downclock/downvolt just fine. I also leave all the bios features like EIST, etc on Auto. I actually get better SSD speeds on the Auto settings than either enabled or disabled. This is for X45 clock. Higher clocks take some tweaking here and there for stability on my boards.


i may give it a shot at my 4.5 OC , i think is was fine then , the problem i have it getting it to work with 4.7 OC , i think i even tried 4.6 , dont remeber if it worked or not ,

i think 4.6 was fine even with my 4.5 vcore

it was when i went to 4.7 , had to raise Vcore etc, to get stable and its fine when just fixed there


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> VL810 is what your board uses unless you have rev 1.1 then its 811. That is the first board with 811. About time they upgraded, VL810 was first used with the P67A-UD7 and the Maixmus 4 Extreme.
> 
> But VL811+ is better, it has SuperSpeed Certification: http://www.techpowerup.com/178138/VIA-Labs-VL811+-USB-3.0-Hub-Controller-Obtains-USB-IF-Certification.html
> 
> not many controllers have this cert let alone hubs.


thats good to know , i was not sure if can update it or not , wasnt sure which i had , now i know its the 811 since i have the 1.1 version UD5H

on the website it shows it but dosnt say that its stable or official release , so not sure if its safe to update or not ?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> VL810 is what your board uses unless you have rev 1.1 then its 811. That is the first board with 811. About time they upgraded, VL810 was first used with the P67A-UD7 and the Maixmus 4 Extreme.
> 
> But VL811+ is better, it has SuperSpeed Certification: http://www.techpowerup.com/178138/VIA-Labs-VL811+-USB-3.0-Hub-Controller-Obtains-USB-IF-Certification.html
> 
> not many controllers have this cert let alone hubs.


Ah, OK, both my boards are revision 1.0. Thanks!


----------



## uncola

I just finished building my new system with a gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H, intel i5 3570k and a hyper 212 evo heatsink and it seems like the first two DIMM slots are defective.. if I put ram in those two, the pc won't boot up.. seems to get stuck at A0 error code. But if I put ram in the 2 slots closest to the cpu, it boots up fine. So far I've tried two brands of ram, corsair vengeance and gskill ripjaws.. neither one work in the first two slots.. is this a known problem? Should I exchange the mobo with amazon?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncola*
> 
> I just finished building my new system with a gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H, intel i5 3570k and a hyper 212 evo heatsink and it seems like the first two DIMM slots are defective.. if I put ram in those two, the pc won't boot up.. seems to get stuck at A0 error code. But if I put ram in the 2 slots closest to the cpu, it boots up fine. So far I've tried two brands of ram, corsair vengeance and gskill ripjaws.. neither one work in the first two slots.. is this a known problem? Should I exchange the mobo with amazon?


You may want to unmount the cpu and carefully check for bent pins as this has been reported to be the problem for a previous poster.

I assume you are aware that you are supposed to use the outer most slot from the cpu with the second slot from the cpu when using two sticks of ram for dual channel mode (you can alternately use the third from the cpu and the first).


----------



## uncola

Thanks for the reply Barkeater. Yes I first tried slot 1 and 3 and the pc wouldn't boot at all. I tried one stick in all the slots and eventaully figured out the first two slots cause the pc not to boot up. Tried one stick in all the slots and also tried another brand of ram with the same result. Currently forced to use slot 3 and 4, so I don't have dual channel. I'll try looking at the cpu pins to see if any are bent but I was extremely careful mounting it


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncola*
> 
> I just finished building my new system with a gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H, intel i5 3570k and a hyper 212 evo heatsink and it seems like the first two DIMM slots are defective.. if I put ram in those two, the pc won't boot up.. seems to get stuck at A0 error code. But if I put ram in the 2 slots closest to the cpu, it boots up fine. So far I've tried two brands of ram, corsair vengeance and gskill ripjaws.. neither one work in the first two slots.. is this a known problem? Should I exchange the mobo with amazon?


From what i know that AO is fine,, its not a error and should be at AO when you fully boot , i though the same thing when i got my board UD5 and from Gigabyte nothing is wrong , suppose to be AO

double check to make sure , i could be wrong , mines says AO , and my first board was also AO , gigabyte FM2 board first time

now with UD5


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncola*
> 
> Thanks for the reply Barkeater. Yes I first tried slot 1 and 3 and the pc wouldn't boot at all. I tried one stick in all the slots and eventaully figured out the first two slots cause the pc not to boot up. Tried one stick in all the slots and also tried another brand of ram with the same result. Currently forced to use slot 3 and 4, so I don't have dual channel. I'll try looking at the cpu pins to see if any are bent but I was extremely careful mounting it


I had this problem (and am deeply indebted to having received this advice) -- the bent CPU pins usually is caused by heat sinks failing to give reasonable guidance on how tight you can screw them down. (Didn't used to be a problem with twist-lock mounts, but now that most coolers are screwed in, with mandatory back-plates, over-tightening is an epidemic problem.)


----------



## uncola

Holy crap, that could totally be it. I screwed down my hyper 212 evo really tight


----------



## Geezerman

Hmmmm.. I was told to tighten the spring loaded screws on a Hyper 212 evo until they stopped


----------



## Sin0822

just make sure the pressure is even, that is the issue. uneven pressure can cause the CPU to tilt and thus have bad connection with some pins.


----------



## GasMan320

Hi all,

I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H (see Rig 2013 in my signature) and was wondering about how the board works in terms of detecting whether to use internal graphics or a discrete video card.

I thought that by setting Init Display to Auto and Internal Graphics to Enabled, I would be able to get a display if I have a video card installed in my system but my monitors are connected to the motherboard's DVI and HDMI connections. However I don't get a display unless I go into the BIOS and set Init Dispaly to be Internal Graphics. Is my board messing up or is this normal?

So just to be clear I have a video card installed in the system but both of my monitors are connected to the motherboard's video out connections (one to DVI, the other to HDMI). If Init Display is set to Auto I get no display on boot up and not even in Windows.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GasMan320*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H (see Rig 2013 in my signature) and was wondering about how the board works in terms of detecting whether to use internal graphics or a discrete video card.
> 
> I thought that by setting Init Display to Auto and Internal Graphics to Enabled, I would be able to get a display if I have a video card installed in my system but my monitors are connected to the motherboard's DVI and HDMI connections. However I don't get a display unless I go into the BIOS and set Init Dispaly to be Internal Graphics. Is my board messing up or is this normal?
> 
> So just to be clear I have a video card installed in the system but both of my monitors are connected to the motherboard's video out connections (one to DVI, the other to HDMI). If Init Display is set to Auto I get no display on boot up and not even in Windows.


If there is a card installed then it will default to using it, normally.


----------



## Sin0822

hey guys, is this diagram easy to make out?:


I was bored and decided to map out the ports and everything like thunderbolt. I tried it laid out as a board, but it was just too many crossing over traces, i guess that is why they have layers lol.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> hey guys, is this diagram easy to make out?:.


AutoCAD?


----------



## mandrix

Nice, Sin.


----------



## jayhay

Looks great sin


----------



## Geezerman

Hey guys, I'm working with a new UD5H and i7-3770k, Win 7 64 bit Home Prem. I figured I would use the PCI slot since it's there. I have a Rosewill USB2.0 PCI CARD Model RC-101 that has very low hours on it and works just fine with my Asus based AMD 965 X4 HTPC. I installed it in the UD5H PCI slot and what troubles. Blue screens, locked up windows, finally got into windows, and it does the endless "searching preconfigured folders" It never does install. It's supposed to be plug and play for Win 7, and has been in more than two rigs.

Do you think this is some sort of chipset conflict? It's not a huge deal, but I would like to resolve any missing drivers early on here, not to mention any hardware problems with the PCI slot. I did install an old PCI network card, and it connected, though I want to try at least one more PCI card to check it out.

Yeah, I know, PCI is ancient and on it's way out, still, I want a new, expensive board like the UD5H to have fully functioning hardware.

Thanks for your input

Crucial M4 128GB SSD
UD5H board
Intel i7-3770K CPU
PC power and cooling 500 watt
no video card yet.


----------



## barkeater

what, you want legacy support (pci slot) and for it to work, too!


----------



## Geezerman

OK, update here. I had another PCI USB 2 card, it's not as pretty, but it works. So, I'm figuring that the Z77 chipset has a problem with the NEC chipset that the Rosewill card has. Ain't computers fun?


----------



## DeXel

I have recently read somewhere that PCI-E to PCI bridge from ITE that Gigabyte uses has compatibility issues compared to what ASMedia offers. Something to be aware of if you need that PCI.


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I have recently read somewhere that PCI-E to PCI bridge from ITE that Gigabyte uses has compatibility issues compared to what ASMedia offers. Something to be aware of if you need that PCI.


I couldn't remember how that went. So the ITE chip provides the hardware bridge from the PCI to the PCI-E that the Z77 has .The Z77 does not have a native PCI support, so they have to install the ITE chip. Do I have that right?.


----------



## DeXel

Yes, Z77 doesn't support PCI natively.


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yes, Z77 doesn't support PCI natively.


OK, my training is over, I'm off to design motherboards in Taiwan....


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yes, Z77 doesn't support PCI natively.


That's peculiar. I'm using my E-mu 0404 sound card in my PCI slot just fine.


----------



## jayhay

Z77 doesn't support it natively. GB added the ITE chip to the board so they could add a PCI slot. The other poster had an issue with one of his USB PCI cards. Very different than your sound card. And of the two cards he had one worked and one didn't. Most likely the PCI slot will play fine with most cards, but maybe sometimes not. As everything goes with computers.


----------



## Geezerman

Whhooopps..spoke too soon. Damn it. It hung up on shutdown, then blue screened me.


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I have recently read somewhere that PCI-E to PCI bridge from ITE that Gigabyte uses has compatibility issues compared to what ASMedia offers. Something to be aware of if you need that PCI.


if you locate that thread, i would be interested in reading it since I just got a hang up and BSOD. Thanks


----------



## DeXel

It's not a thread. It was just mentioned in the review of UP5, which uses the same chip, on Russian website. I guess it's true since it has no issues with mainstream and common PCI devices like audio cards, but has issues with USB controllers.

Why do you even need it? Don't you have enough USB ports on UD5H already lol?


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It's not a thread. It was just mentioned in the review of UP5, which uses the same chip, on Russian website. I guess it's true since it has no issues with mainstream and common PCI devices like audio cards, but has issues with USB controllers.
> 
> Why do you even need it? Don't you have enough USB ports on UD5H already lol?


I like the USB2 ports near the bottom. It's nice and easy to have 4 ports in a neat row, like printer, scanner, etc,.rather than crowd up the I/O panel ,with hard to tell which one goes where, USB2 cables. And sometimes hard to fit jump drives next to other things. It's also much more physically solid to have USB2 ports on a PCI card, rather than having a USB ports on a PCI bracket that tends to rock around a bit. Yeah, I'm old and strange I guess...

I also wanted to make sure that my BSOD were caused by the PCI cards,, which I'm 95% sure of.

that Russian site mentions issues with older PCI cards, which these probably are. Heck, these days any PCI card is now older.

Thanks


----------



## DeXel

Get one of these. You can find one for USB 3.0 too.


And problem solved.


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Get one of these. You can find one for USB 3.0 too.
> 
> 
> And problem solved.


Yeah, I got plenty of those. They tend to move around a bit since they are not secured in a motherboard slot, they just hang on the case with one screw on one end, and not much else on the other. I like the tactile feel of a solid USB2 push in connection.

I'll use one again I guess, and just not bother using the PCI slot. Those slots will be a forgotten component real soon anyway, like IDE.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> AutoCAD?


actually visio


----------



## Sin0822

IT8892E provides 2 PCI outputs from a single PCI-E 1x lane, usually board makers just use one of these outputs, on some gigabyte only 1 is used like on the UP4, GIGABYTE then goes one step further and on some boards with the 1394A they use a VIA chip that is based of PCI instead of PCI-E that way to save lanes for other things like dual LAN or more SATA or USB, so out of hte IT8892E they get 1394A and a PCI slot. Otherwise they use a VIA PCi-E 1x chip, which gigabyte doesn't, on all gigabyte boards with 1394A you are bound to see a PCI slot. Last gen we will ever see PCI on is X79.


----------



## eBombzor

Hey does anyone know what Intel Management Engine Interface is? I just noticed it on my mobo's driver page:

http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl


----------



## GasMan320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey does anyone know what Intel Management Engine Interface is? I just noticed it on my mobo's driver page:
> http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl


Built into many Intel® Chipset-based platforms is a small, low power computer subsystem called the Intel® Management Engine (Intel® ME). This performs various tasks while the system is in sleep, during the boot process and when your system is running. It is important that this sub system is functioning correctly to get the most performance and capability from your PC.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey does anyone know what Intel Management Engine Interface is? I just noticed it on my mobo's driver page:
> http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl


no one knows exactly what it does

but pc works perfect without it, at least i don´t use crap stuff like intel smart response or something like those


----------



## Sin0822

yea it does work fine without it, however it does help run the substructure. Let's say you want to change the multiplier in windows? You have to install Intel's ME driver, also ME firmware which is separate and in the BIOS updates controls a crap-load of stuff. I would install the driver.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea it does work fine without it, however it does help run the substructure. Let's say you want to change the multiplier in windows? You have to install Intel's ME driver, also ME firmware which is separate and in the BIOS updates controls a crap-load of stuff. I would install the driver.


Seems like the one on the Gigabyte page is dated. How come Intel doesn't have the IMEI driver? It says "No download available"


----------



## Sin0822

They do, just under their own boards, as it is a driver for a motherboard:
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/SearchResult.aspx?lang=eng&ProductFamily=Desktop+Boards&ProductLine=Intel%C2%AE+7+Series+Chipset+Boards&ProductProduct=Intel%C2%AE+Desktop+Board+DZ77BH-55K

For boards that use EC, ME is very important with BIOS flashing and flash back.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> They do, just under their own boards, as it is a driver for a motherboard:
> http://downloadcenter.intel.com/SearchResult.aspx?lang=eng&ProductFamily=Desktop+Boards&ProductLine=Intel%C2%AE+7+Series+Chipset+Boards&ProductProduct=Intel%C2%AE+Desktop+Board+DZ77BH-55K
> 
> For boards that use EC, ME is very important with BIOS flashing and flash back.


Thank you so much!


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> They do, just under their own boards, as it is a driver for a motherboard:
> http://downloadcenter.intel.com/SearchResult.aspx?lang=eng&ProductFamily=Desktop+Boards&ProductLine=Intel%C2%AE+7+Series+Chipset+Boards&ProductProduct=Intel%C2%AE+Desktop+Board+DZ77BH-55K
> 
> For boards that use EC, ME is very important with BIOS flashing and flash back.


EC?

EDIT: Express Chipset I assume.


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys one more question. I have an i3 3220 and I thought the i3s don't support PCI-e 3.0, but under Miscellaneous Settings in the BIOS, I can set it to Gen3?? What will happen if I put it to Gen3? I have it on Gen2 ATM.


----------



## 8bitG33k

So far so good... built this rig yesterday and got Win 7 installed. Still a few quirks to figure out though.

Two things that caused a frown right off the bat:

1) Enabling RAID in BIOS causes BSOD (using Windows RAID now)

2) Enabling 'Sleep' Mode causes the PC to restart several times and then displays the User logon screen without actually going into hibernation.


----------



## decepticlone

Howdy, just set up a new build with the ud3h 1.0 rev with bios f18. I cannot get my hd7850 to display the bios past the splash screen via HDMI. The splash screen appears, I hit DEL and the screen goes black. If I let it boot it goes into Windows just fine. It does work, however, via DVI. My system has been up and running for a few days, but I have to hook up a DVI monitor whenever I want to enter the bios which is annoying. Any thoughts?


----------



## Sin0822

EC=embedded controller its an intel tech that Intel is phasing out.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Autotune cranked everything up to ~4.5GHz at 1.34V @ 78C during it's built-in stability test, but when I ran Prime95 temperatures got up to 98C and that was a bit too high for my taste.

Hm, Easy Tune 6 is easy to overclock with but not so easy to reset everything back to it's original values, in spite of clicking the 'Default' Button... Looks like you have to click on 'Advanced' and then on each tab for 'Frequency' and 'Ratio' and manually adjust the slider.

So basically what Easy Tune does, is to clock up the Turbo Boost? Cuz all the relevant settings in the BIOS seem to be still at their default values after using the Autotune feature of Easy Tune 6 (although the BIOS is giving me mixed messages on this, in one place it reports default values (ie 35x100 for my processor) but at the same time it reads out 4563MHz clocks.


----------



## Geezerman

Well, darn it all. Just got my UD5H all built up, except for no video card yet. Runing all stock for now. And BAM, another blue screen.

I had the problem earlier when I tried an older PCI card with USB2 ports on it, windows would not even load. Moved that card to my Asus HTPC, and no issues at all, same thing with other PCs.

Now, have an older network card in the PCI slot , a Ralink T161 based card, that had been stable yesterday, and then tonight, while at idle, a crash to blue screen.
I have a PCI audio card that I would like to try out, but it looks like the PCI on the UD5H has some issues. This same card causes no troubles with other PCs I have used it with that are running Win 7.

Heck,I'm tempted to buy a PCI card that is known to work on other UD5H just to see if I have a bad chip or slot here. Anyone using a PCI card please let me know what it is, if it's cheap enough, I'll try it out.

I need to get the data dump too, and have some experts look at it.

I see some web chat about setting BCLK to 100.1..Is this a valid answer? I see some postings about audio cards in te PCI slot causing latency problems as well.

I didn't buy the board just for the PCI slot, but it does bug me to have an expensive board with what appears to be PCI issues.

This may be related, I see :" The device, \Device\Ide\iaStor0, did not respond within the timeout period " in event viewer right before the crash to blue screen.. Looks more like a sata driver problem. This event happened 22 seconds before the blue screen


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geezerman*
> 
> Well, darn it all. Just got my UD5H all built up, except for no video card yet. Runing all stock for now. And *BAM, another blue screen*.
> 
> I had the problem earlier when I tried an older PCI card with USB2 ports on it, windows would not even load. Moved that card to my Asus HTPC, and no issues at all, same thing with other PCs.
> 
> Now, have an older network card in the PCI slot , a Ralink T161 based card, that had been stable yesterday, and then tonight, while at idle, a crash to blue screen.
> I have a PCI audio card that I would like to try out, but it looks like the PCI on the UD5H has some issues. This same card causes no troubles with other PCs I have used it with that are running Win 7.
> 
> Heck,I'm tempted to buy a PCI card that is known to work on other UD5H just to see if I have a bad chip or slot here. Anyone using a PCI card please let me know what it is, if it's cheap enough, I'll try it out.
> 
> I need to get the data dump too, and have some experts look at it.
> 
> I see some web chat about setting BCLK to 100.1..Is this a valid answer? I see some postings about audio cards in te PCI slot causing latency problems as well.
> 
> I didn't buy the board just for the PCI slot, but it does bug me to have an expensive board with what appears to be PCI issues.
> 
> This may be related, I see :" The device, \Device\Ide\iaStor0, did not respond within the timeout period " in event viewer right before the crash to blue screen.. Looks more like a sata driver problem. This event happened 22 seconds before the blue screen


Blue screen means Windows. What version? I'd posted earlier about network card on 1st slot causing BCLK to drop below 100. May have something to do with pci-e 3.0 implementation on this board. But blue screens on my UD5H related only to Suspend S3. BTW, the UD5H has 2 nics, why do you want another network card?


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Blue screen means Windows. What version? I'd posted earlier about network card on 1st slot causing BCLK to drop below 100. May have something to do with pci-e 3.0 implementation on this board. But blue screens on my UD5H related only to Suspend S3. BTW, the UD5H has 2 nics, why do you want another network card?


win 7 64 bit
The express slots are not controlled by the ITE chip that is giving some people problems with the PCI slot, and that's what I'm having. PCI problems
it's a wireless network card. i really want to use the PCI slot with an audio card. .


----------



## Swiftes

Seen loads of D3H's going cheap open box, grabbing one


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geezerman*
> 
> win 7 64 bit
> The express slots are not controlled by the ITE chip that is giving some people problems with the PCI slot, and that's what I'm having. PCI problems
> it's a wireless network card. i really want to use the PCI slot with an audio card. .


PCI isn't native to Z77 so they use an add in chip to make it work, only some PCI cards work okay with it, some don't. it is just the design, PCI should have been phased out by now, but some people still have cards.


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> PCI isn't native to Z77 so they use an add in chip to make it work, only some PCI cards work okay with it, some don't. it is just the design, PCI should have been phased out by now, but some people still have cards.


I might be having two issues. After last night's blue screen, event viewer said *:" The device, \Device\Ide\iaStor0, did not respond within the timeout period "* This event was within a few seconds of the blue screen. The latest blue screen happened earlier today while transferring files from a USB jump drive to an 1TB storage drive I have connected to a sata port. So, I updated the Intel Rapid Storage Tech driver, I thought I had the latest driver, but apparently I did not..
I still have the wireless network card in the PCI slot too..


----------



## sgtjeep

Swiftes,
why do you think there are so many D3H's open box out there for sale ?


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtjeep*
> 
> Swiftes,
> why do you think there are so many D3H's open box out there for sale ?


Well there's 2 on OCUk cheap, im not sure? I've been out the Hardware game for a good 2-3 years, are they not good to buy?


----------



## sgtjeep

Swiftes,
Let me take a moment and ask that same question to our membership...have you guys/gals had or still have issues with your Ga-z77x-D3H motherboards. All responses will be appreciated, thank you.

Let's wait and see what happens here.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtjeep*
> 
> Swiftes,
> Let me take a moment and ask that same question to our membership...have you guys/gals had or still have issues with your Ga-z77x-D3H motherboards. All responses will be appreciated, thank you.
> 
> Let's wait and see what happens here.


My GA-Z77X-UD3H runs great, I am very happy with it. It POSTed the moment I first hit that onboard power button.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Most people post questions because they are running into an issue, people rarely post to report everything is ok. And boards like this are made to be tweaked and people asking questions (especially when it comes to overclocking) comes with the territory. Even a Classified, Rampage or Maximus will stump people from time to time. In other words, the board that has zero issues has yet to be invented (unless you buy a pre-built and even then you might run into issues).

This is my 3rd Gigabyte board and I have been very happy with every one of them. _That's not to say there aren't any issues particular to this board, just that I haven't come across any yet_. But neither do I think this is a terrible board, I doubt as many people would have it or people recommending it in the first place. Personally I read reviews from people across the web who already own or have owned a particular product before purchasing it, that way I know exactly what I'm getting into.

That said, it would be nice if we could get a sticky going with known issues and solutions or workarounds, pro's and cons if you will.


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtjeep*
> 
> Swiftes,
> Let me take a moment and ask that same question to our membership...have you guys/gals had or still have issues with your Ga-z77x-D3H motherboards. All responses will be appreciated, thank you.
> 
> Let's wait and see what happens here.


Don't really like your sarcastic tone tbh mate, I was unaware people had problems with it, don't take me for an idiot because i've got an iMac now because i've built more computers than you've had cooked dinners.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> My GA-Z77-UD3H runs great, I am very happy with it. It POSTed the moment I first hit that onboard power button.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people post questions because they are running into an issue, people rarely post to report everything is ok. And boards like this are made to be tweaked and people asking questions (especially when it comes to overclocking) comes with the territory. Even a Classified, Rampage or Maximus will stump people from time to time. In other words, the board that has zero issues has yet to be invented (unless you buy a pre-built and even then you might run into issues).
> 
> This is my 3rd Gigabyte board and I have been very happy with every one of them. _That's not to say there aren't any issues particular to this board, just that I haven't come across any yet_. But neither do I think this is a terrible board, I doubt as many people would have it or people recommending it in the first place. Personally I read reviews from people across the web who already own or have owned a particular product before purchasing it, that way I know exactly what I'm getting into.
> 
> That said, it would be nice if we could get a sticky going with known issues and solutions or workarounds, pro's and cons if you will.


Yeah it looks a good little board for the money, seems to overclock like a champ too


----------



## sgtjeep

Mr Swiftes,
Maybe where you're from my statement could be construed as being sarcastic, but here in NM it would be taken as being helpful, which was my true intention. I did not want you or anyone else to buy a board that was having problems. One's hard earned money has to go a long ways now.

I know that I have consumed quite a number of cooked dinners in my day, and built quite a few computer systems, as well. Let's see... I started building and programming systems in the early 1960's for a living, thru the seventies ( started building my own 1975 ), thru the 80's and 90's till the present day. You must be senior to me then to have built so many computers, 75 years here..and you ?


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtjeep*
> 
> Mr Swiftes,
> Maybe where you're from my statement could be construed as being sarcastic, but here in NM it would be taken as being helpful, which was my true intention. I did not want you or anyone else to buy a board that was having problems. One's hard earned money has to go a long ways now.
> 
> I know that I have consumed quite a number of cooked dinners in my day, and built quite a few computer systems, as well. Let's see... I started building and programming systems in the early 1960's for a living, thru the seventies ( started building my own 1975 ), thru the 80's and 90's till the present day. You must be senior to me then to have built so many computers, 75 years here..and you ?


You need my user name more than I do....


----------



## AlphaC

http://www.cpuid.com/news/65-cpu_z_gigabyte_oc_edition.html

"CPUID launches GIGABYTE OC version of CPU-Z"

So I guess Gigabyte is trying to their own ROG style branding thing ... they don't need to try so hard with branding. What they need is _better fan control_, the hardware already dominates marketshare in hackintosh builds.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> http://www.cpuid.com/news/65-cpu_z_gigabyte_oc_edition.html
> 
> "CPUID launches GIGABYTE OC version of CPU-Z"
> 
> So I guess Gigabyte is trying to their own ROG style branding thing ... they don't need to try so hard with branding. What they need is _better fan control_, the hardware already dominates marketshare in hackintosh builds.


they also have g1 edition.

fan control, its a hardware thing, at least there aren't bigger issues.


----------



## uncola

Hey have any of you gotten Lucid Virtu MVP to work? I have the UD3 board and an amd 7870 with windows 8 64. I installed virtu mvp when I was using the intel gpu in my 3570k, but after installing the amd 7870, when I run virtu mvp control panel is says wrong gpu configuration. I went into the bios and set the integrated gpu to ENABLED and init first display to IGPU. but the intel gpu still doesn't show up in device manager. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?


----------



## Swiftes

Sgtjeep: Apologies for losing my temper a bit, just seemed from your post that you were taking me for an idiot


----------



## Belial

So I got my sig rig running, I returned my UD3H ($109) and microcenter gave me $30 and a Ud5h ($79). What a deal huh.

I assume Intel LAN > Atheros.

I'll upload pics soon, I know. I cut a window and everything.


----------



## sgtjeep

Gentlemen,
Apologies accepted all around. Let's get on with it. Do any of you out there have anything good,bad or constructive to report on the D3H motherboards? Some of these boards have shown up for sale online and since they are rather new, a prospective buyer may want some additional info before they buy. Thank You.


----------



## 8bitG33k

For me it came down to this board or one from the ASRock Z77 lineup. Ultimately I chose this board because it has digital VRM instead of analog (like the ASRock Z77). Imo the issues some people are having (like Geezerman) are unique to the Z77 chipset rather than the board itself.

The board also holds the record for the highest Ivybridge overclock.


----------



## Sin0822

There are a few D3Hs actually:
Z77-D3H
Z77X-D3H
Z77M-D3H
Z77MX-D3H
Z77M-D3H-MVP

BTW ima test this Z77-HD4 soon, I wonder if it has VCore control.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> There are a few D3Hs actually:
> Z77-D3H
> Z77X-D3H
> Z77M-D3H
> Z77MX-D3H
> Z77M-D3H-MVP
> 
> BTW ima test this Z77-HD4 soon, I wonder if it has VCore control.


And the "U-s" with the Copper PCB... (Z77-*U*D3H)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dhalmel*
> U = Double copper PCB, lower temps on the Mofets PCB, better electric regulation for OC.
> D = Durable Solid JP Capacitors, longer lifetime, and cooler than standard capacitors


M = Micro ATX

X = Digital VRM

Lineup


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So I got my sig rig running, I returned my UD3H ($109) and microcenter gave me $30 and a Ud5h ($79). What a deal huh.
> 
> I assume Intel LAN > Atheros.
> 
> I'll upload pics soon, I know. I cut a window and everything.


I think you and I shop at the same MC. I got the email last Friday that had the 3 day sale on the UD5H, if you bought the i5 combo you got the UD5H for 79.99 after rebate. Of course, they were out of stock, and I had already purchased the UD5H , but they did a price match for me, and gave me 40.00 back, so I paid 100.00 for the UD5H. I don't know if I can swing the rebate since my original receipt is outside of the rebate period. I didn't push the issue, since I had used the notorious 20.00 off coupon on the i5 CPU on the combo deal. So, UD5H for 100.00 and i5 for 150.00. Sold the i5 already for a 20.00 profit, and got the i7 for 230.00. Not a bad deal..the sales gal questioned what the 20.00 coupon on the CPU was, and her manager said it was a fraudulent item that got out on the web. I almost spoke up to correct her that it was a MC mistake. The coupons were intended for two stores up north, but the dummies in marketing forgot to put restrictions on the coupon. They even forgot to give the coupons unique numbers to restrict the number of times it could be redeemed. Someone lost their job on that one.


----------



## lhwjud

Have just completed a build but encountered boot looping problem:

1. Fans will start, lights will turn on, then everything shuts down after a few seconds.
2. Fans will start, lights will turn on, and it will boot into a blank blue screen with "Gigabyte dual UEFI BIOS" at the top, then everything will shut down.
3. Fans will start, lights will turn on, then everything shuts down after a few seconds.
4. It will then boot properly into windows 8

This is the exact sequence of event on a cold boot. Restarting the PC seems to be OK.

The board is paired with an i5-2500k and Corsair vengeance 8GB 1600Mhz. Bios version F16.

On separate note - how to update the backup bios to F16 as well?

Your comments are appreciated.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lhwjud*
> 
> Have just completed a build but encountered boot looping problem:
> 
> 1. Fans will start, lights will turn on, then everything shuts down after a few seconds.
> 2. Fans will start, lights will turn on, and it will boot into a blank blue screen with "Gigabyte dual UEFI BIOS" at the top, then everything will shut down.
> 3. Fans will start, lights will turn on, then everything shuts down after a few seconds.
> 4. It will then boot properly into windows 8
> 
> This is the exact sequence of event on a cold boot. Restarting the PC seems to be OK.
> 
> The board is paired with an i5-2500k and Corsair vengeance 8GB 1600Mhz. Bios version F16.
> 
> On separate note - how to update the backup bios to F16 as well?
> 
> Your comments are appreciated.


So this started happening _after_ you installed Windows? Did you make sure it POSTed ok when you first started building it? Did you install all the drivers straight from the CD or did you download them individually? I recommend installing them from CD first as these are more likely to work off the bat. You can always update the drivers at a later point. Did you change any of the BIOS settings? Try clearing CMOS and load optimized defaults if you haven't done so already, as this sounds like it may be something from the BIOS. Also, what version of this board are you using? (ie, Z77, Z77X, D3H, UD3H)

And if you could post your complete system specs please!


----------



## lhwjud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> So this started happening _after_ you installed Windows? Did you make sure it POSTed ok when you first started building it? Did you install all the drivers straight from the CD or did you download them individually? I recommend installing them from CD first as these are more likely to work off the bat. You can always update the drivers at a later point. Did you change any of the BIOS settings? Try clearing CMOS and load optimized defaults if you haven't done so already, as this sounds like it may be something from the BIOS. Also, what version of this board are you using? (ie, Z77, Z77X, D3H, UD3H)
> 
> And if you could post your complete system specs please!


Thanks for the quick reply.

Full specs:
Z77X-D3H
i5-2500k
Corsair vengeance 8GB 1600Mhz.
1TB HDD
No graphics cards etc

I have used the system for a couple of weeks now but the boot looping issue has just surfaced in the last couple of days - however I have been keeping the PC running 24/7 in the past few weeks (no issue) and only started to shut down the PC at night, and start it up again after work (issue with boot looping).

The only change in BIOS is the CPU multiplier where I have set to 45x.

I have not installed the driver from the CD. Most of it detected by Windows and the remaining downloaded from Gigabyte website. Surely this is nothing to do with drivers (as the issue appears before Windows)?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtjeep*
> 
> Some of these boards have shown up for sale online and since they are rather new, a prospective buyer may want some additional info before they buy.


There's no problem for sure, it's just that the rev 1.1 came out:
http://www.gigabyte.fr/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4325#ov

It's the EXACT SAME motherboard (if there was any significant changes it would be 2.0) but changed one or more of their components suppliers, they often do that when they can get a contract on cheaper parts. Same has been done on the UD3H (rev 1.1) for example.

Look at the pics from both motherboards they changed their MOSFET supplier (like the exact same part but from another manufacturer) so you don't have to worry about any potential issue.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncola*
> 
> Hey have any of you gotten Lucid Virtu MVP to work? I have the UD3 board and an amd 7870 with windows 8 64. I installed virtu mvp when I was using the intel gpu in my 3570k, but after installing the amd 7870, when I run virtu mvp control panel is says wrong gpu configuration. I went into the bios and set the integrated gpu to ENABLED and init first display to IGPU. but the intel gpu still doesn't show up in device manager. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?


what you are doing wrong is using that crap

really a 7870 is awesome, lucid will only give you crashes, flickering, bugs, etc


----------



## expresso

Has anyone using a UD5H board having any issues with the internet ? LAN on this board

it seems as if i am having some issues - after some use , it seems to not work , locks up , as if the network is down etc,

a reboot is all thats needed , but not sure if this is my network or the board LAN , i have tried both of them , not sure which i have it plugged in now , i think its the top LAN on the board

i notice a new bios show LAN improvement , has anyone updated to this 15o bios and did the LAN improve ? did it cause other issues ?

thanks


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lhwjud*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply.
> 
> Full specs:
> Z77X-D3H
> i5-2500k
> Corsair vengeance 8GB 1600Mhz.
> 1TB HDD
> No graphics cards etc
> 
> I have used the system for a couple of weeks now but the boot looping issue has just surfaced in the last couple of days - however I have been keeping the PC running 24/7 in the past few weeks (no issue) and only started to shut down the PC at night, and start it up again after work (issue with boot looping).
> 
> The only change in BIOS is the CPU multiplier where I have set to 45x.
> 
> I have not installed the driver from the CD. Most of it detected by Windows and the remaining downloaded from Gigabyte website. Surely this is nothing to do with drivers (as the issue appears before Windows)?


What have you changed in the last couple days? Does it say anything in Windows Event Viewer? Although I doubt that since you dont seem to even get that far, but check it anyway. Other than that I would reset all BIOS settings to their default settings and see if it still happens.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geezerman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So I got my sig rig running, I returned my UD3H ($109) and microcenter gave me $30 and a Ud5h ($79). What a deal huh.
> 
> I assume Intel LAN > Atheros.
> 
> I'll upload pics soon, I know. I cut a window and everything.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you and I shop at the same MC. I got the email last Friday that had the 3 day sale on the UD5H, if you bought the i5 combo you got the UD5H for 79.99 after rebate. Of course, they were out of stock, and I had already purchased the UD5H , but they did a price match for me, and gave me 40.00 back, so I paid 100.00 for the UD5H. I don't know if I can swing the rebate since my original receipt is outside of the rebate period. I didn't push the issue, since I had used the notorious 20.00 off coupon on the i5 CPU on the combo deal. So, UD5H for 100.00 and i5 for 150.00. Sold the i5 already for a 20.00 profit, and got the i7 for 230.00. Not a bad deal..the sales gal questioned what the 20.00 coupon on the CPU was, and her manager said it was a fraudulent item that got out on the web. I almost spoke up to correct her that it was a MC mistake. The coupons were intended for two stores up north, but the dummies in marketing forgot to put restrictions on the coupon. They even forgot to give the coupons unique numbers to restrict the number of times it could be redeemed. Someone lost their job on that one.
Click to expand...

Oh so those emails aren't for every MC? lol I've been posting those deals in the online section thinking it was every mc.

I mean you sure about that? Because I would put the ud5h in cart with another store set as my home store and it'd do the discounts...

I think the receipt says you gotta send within 30 days or something but that's BS. Send in the rebate, you should be fine. What really matters is if you bought the item at the right time. And the coupon you used is irrelevant - rebates are from the manufacturer, not the retailer.

Also I don't shop at the 'same' MC. I've only been to MC twice - 2 weeks ago I bought an i5-3570k + UD5H ($169+109) at the Rockville, MD store, then a few days ago I went to Fairfax and returned my UD3H for a UD5h + $10.50 ($10 price difference in-store plus tax) + $20 rebate, and bought a 3570K + MSI Z77 G41 ($189 + $44 with $25 MIR to make it $19). I mean it doesn't make sense what you say - I buy stuff from that Rockville store and select it as my home base, then I went to Fairfax and got the discounts as stated in the email with no problem (one at the customer service desk for the return/exchange, and then online pick-up since line was shorter).
Quote:


> Gentlemen,
> Apologies accepted all around. Let's get on with it. Do any of you out there have anything good,bad or constructive to report on the D3H motherboards? Some of these boards have shown up for sale online and since they are rather new, a prospective buyer may want some additional info before they buy. Thank You.


No voltage control. Avoid the board.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1354973/list-of-motherboards-by-overclocking-options/0_100#post_19167587


----------



## DeXel

Z77-D3H and Z77X-D3H have voltage adjustments. I don't know where you got your info from. D3HS doesn't


----------



## NHerby

Hi,
Brand new here and this is my first post.
I have a Z77X-D3H and got yesterday this Gskill 2x4GB [ TridentX ] F3-2400C10D-8GTX. After installation, I had to set the XMP to profile 1 to get the RAM running @ 2400MHz. From what I can see in the BIOS status, the RAM works as it should.
But I don't understand what is the difference between profile#1 and profile#2 in the XMP setting. Can someone explain this to me?
I will soon go for OC and, since it will be my very first OC, I'm looking for a very detailed step by step tutorial for this mobo. Does anybody know where I can find this? I googled for this but got too many result and it's hard to tell which tutorial will be the most helpfull.
Regards.


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Oh so those emails aren't for every MC? lol I've been posting those deals in the online section thinking it was every mc.
> 
> I mean you sure about that? Because I would put the ud5h in cart with another store set as my home store and it'd do the discounts...
> 
> I think the receipt says you gotta send within 30 days or something but that's BS. Send in the rebate, you should be fine. What really matters is if you bought the item at the right time. And the coupon you used is irrelevant - rebates are from the manufacturer, not the retailer.
> 
> Also I don't shop at the 'same' MC. I've only been to MC twice - 2 weeks ago I bought an i5-3570k + UD5H ($169+109) at the Rockville, MD store, then a few days ago I went to Fairfax and returned my UD3H for a UD5h + $10.50 ($10 price difference in-store plus tax) + $20 rebate, and bought a 3570K + MSI Z77 G41 ($189 + $44 with $25 MIR to make it $19). I mean it doesn't make sense what you say - I buy stuff from that Rockville store and select it as my home base, then I went to Fairfax and got the discounts as stated in the email with no problem (one at the customer service desk for the return/exchange, and then online pick-up since line was shorter).
> No voltage control. Avoid the board.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1354973/list-of-motherboards-by-overclocking-options/0_100#post_19167587


No no, the 20.00 and 25.00 off anything coupon deal fiasco was supposed to be a regional deal, but they did not restrict the coupons, so they were good at all stores. Big mistake on their part. it went all over the web.

The regular MC emails they send out , that have their deals are usually nationwide, as was the 3 day UD5H deal, and good at all stores.

The reason I have doubts on the rebate for my UD5H was the original purchase date was outside of the specified rebate days, which was only 3 days. the only receipt I have is a price match receipt showing a refund of 40.00 during the sale period.


----------



## Anth0789

Been using my Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H for a few weeks now and its been running great!


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NHerby*
> 
> I will soon go for OC and, since it will be my very first OC, I'm looking for a very detailed step by step tutorial for this mobo. Does anybody know where I can find this? I googled for this but got too many result and it's hard to tell which tutorial will be the most helpfull.
> Regards.


Read them all, filter what you read, cross reference the articles with one another and take your time. Familiarize yourself with the steps by aiming for a mild overclock before moving forward and remember to keep an eye on your temps.

And read this one too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> No voltage control. Avoid the board.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1354973/list-of-motherboards-by-overclocking-options/0_100#post_19167587


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Z77-D3H and Z77X-D3H have voltage adjustments. I don't know where you got your info from. D3HS doesn't


The 'X' stands for digital voltage regulation (source). The Gigabyte website lists only the boards with an 'X' in the model name as having 'GIGABYTE All Digital Power Engine' (source). VRM on the other Z77 boards is analog then, if present. Feel free to throw in your two cents.


----------



## Belial

I'm having trouble getting my 2x2gb Mushkin 2000 CL7 1.65v (996902) enhanced ridgeback blackline ram to work on XMP profile. It's terribly unstable, fails in p95 with worker errors or BSOD immediately, can't browse online without issues (chrome failing, pages failing, bsod, etc).

I tried upping vtt/imc to 1.2/1.15 but that didn't work. RAM voltage is 1.65, automatically set by xmp. I've verified voltages with a multimeter, vtt, imc, and vdimm are all exactly as set.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geezerman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Oh so those emails aren't for every MC? lol I've been posting those deals in the online section thinking it was every mc.
> 
> I mean you sure about that? Because I would put the ud5h in cart with another store set as my home store and it'd do the discounts...
> 
> I think the receipt says you gotta send within 30 days or something but that's BS. Send in the rebate, you should be fine. What really matters is if you bought the item at the right time. And the coupon you used is irrelevant - rebates are from the manufacturer, not the retailer.
> 
> Also I don't shop at the 'same' MC. I've only been to MC twice - 2 weeks ago I bought an i5-3570k + UD5H ($169+109) at the Rockville, MD store, then a few days ago I went to Fairfax and returned my UD3H for a UD5h + $10.50 ($10 price difference in-store plus tax) + $20 rebate, and bought a 3570K + MSI Z77 G41 ($189 + $44 with $25 MIR to make it $19). I mean it doesn't make sense what you say - I buy stuff from that Rockville store and select it as my home base, then I went to Fairfax and got the discounts as stated in the email with no problem (one at the customer service desk for the return/exchange, and then online pick-up since line was shorter).
> No voltage control. Avoid the board.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1354973/list-of-motherboards-by-overclocking-options/0_100#post_19167587
> 
> 
> 
> No no, the 20.00 and 25.00 off anything coupon deal fiasco was supposed to be a regional deal, but they did not restrict the coupons, so they were good at all stores. Big mistake on their part. it went all over the web.
> 
> The regular MC emails they send out , that have their deals are usually nationwide, as was the 3 day UD5H deal, and good at all stores.
> 
> The reason I have doubts on the rebate for my UD5H was the original purchase date was outside of the specified rebate days, which was only 3 days. the only receipt I have is a price match receipt showing a refund of 40.00 during the sale period.
Click to expand...

Yea i know about the 20/25 coupons.

For the UD5H deal, the instant discount was only for 3 days. The $20 rebate for the ud5h has been going on for a while i believe. Your refund receipt should be fine, it's what I used (showing i exchanged my ud3h for a ud5h).
Quote:


> Z77-D3H and Z77X-D3H have voltage adjustments. I don't know where you got your info from. D3HS doesn't


I think i got confused.

D3H does not have ram voltage control though.


----------



## SuperKW

Hi guys,
My keyboard light stay on after i shutdown my PC sometimes ! any one know why ?


----------



## NHerby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Read them all, filter what you read, cross reference the articles with one another and take your time. Familiarize yourself with the steps by aiming for a mild overclock before moving forward and remember to keep an eye on your temps.
> 
> And read this one too.


Thanks for this. Actually, I already went through this topic and it's definitively a good tutorial.
I also found this video on youtube:



I think this one is really what I was looking for.
One question however regarding this video: the guy ends up overclocking using the power saving and raising the turbo ratio for each core (@ 7'40). What are the pros and cons of this method? Is-it necessary to keep the vcore on auto with this method?


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Yea i know about the 20/25 coupons.
> 
> For the UD5H deal, the instant discount was only for 3 days. The $20 rebate for the ud5h has been going on for a while i believe. Your refund receipt should be fine, it's what I used (showing i exchanged my ud3h for a ud5h).
> I think i got confused.
> 
> D3H does not have ram voltage control though.


The only recent rebate I know of for the UD5H was for those 3 days. I was looking at the prices everyday for quite some time on the MC page before I purchased it. The offer code is GIG-6613, and online it shows good for 1/24 - 1/27. I'll give it a try, though the only receipt I have for those 3 days is a price match receipt that shows a negative 43.30 as a total.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperKW*
> 
> Hi guys,
> My keyboard light stay on after i shutdown my PC sometimes ! any one know why ?


I don't know if this is unique to Gigabyte boards, but there is a feature which allows you to charge external USB devices such as Cellphones while the computer is switched off. (GIGABYTE On/Off Charge™ for USB devices). I am guessing this is what you're experiencing.

RTM to see where to turn off this feature.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> The 'X' stands for digital voltage regulation (source). The Gigabyte website lists only the boards with an 'X' in the model name as having 'GIGABYTE All Digital Power Engine' (source). VRM on the other Z77 boards is analog then, if present. Feel free to throw in your two cents.


CPU power delivery on Z77-D3H is still digital.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I think i got confused.
> 
> D3H does not have ram voltage control though.


It does.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> CPU power delivery on Z77-D3H is still digital.


Source? (not doubting you, just wondering what the basis is for your statement)

EDIT: nvm found it!

What DOES the 'X' stand for then? Everything I read points to it referring to digitally regulated power or voltages.


----------



## dpowellmeii

Greetings,

I'm building a new system and was wondering what RAM y'all would recommend for a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UDH3 and a Core i7-3770K.

I'm looking to go with a 16gb kit, 2x8gb sticks.

I've been eyeballing both of these,

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820233299
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231568

Thanks,
D


----------



## DeXel

Yea. they use the same PWM on Z77-D3H as on UD4H. I think X stands for Xtreme. Makes sense since all Z77X boards are decent clockers.

dpowellmeii, your links are broken.


----------



## dpowellmeii

Appologies.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233299

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568

Thanks,
D


----------



## DeXel

Both should be fine. I would get Ripjaws because I am not fan of super tall heatsinks on Corsair RAM.


----------



## dpowellmeii

Thanks. You have any other recommendations or did I just happen to pick out the right one?

Thanks,
D


----------



## DeXel

All RAM with same specs will perform the same... I can't really comment on good OC 8 GB sticks if there are any... so just pick whichever you like.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yea. they use the same PWM on Z77-D3H as on UD4H. I think X stands for Xtreme. Makes sense since all Z77X boards are decent overclockers.


And what is the difference between a Xtreme and a inextreme board? I'm still favoring the digital VRM theory, reviewers can be wrong too.


----------



## DeXel

Limited OC functions. Crippled VRM. Both are true comparing Z77-D3H to lets say Z77X-D3H.


----------



## Sin0822

what is your theory and what are reviewers wrong on other than most stuff?lol

Here are gigabyte's naming conventions, but the list is a bit outdated:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigabyte_Technology

X i do believe stands for (e)xtreme, i think all X boards have OC capability, while non X aren't necessarily inclined too.

P stands for power when you talk about the UP5, Up4, and UP7. It is a new name convention to signify ultra durable 5, so if the board has ultra durable 5 then it will be a UP board, and have the extremely powerful and advanced VR technology, however the cost of the VRs on those boards costs a lot, so not all boards have it and not all need them, but it if just another level of durability to promote longer life of the components and higher overclocks(theoretically) even tho the typical UD3H or UD5H would OC as high as the UP boards, however the UP boards should be able to do it on less vcore.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> what is your theory and what are reviewers wrong on other than most stuff?lol
> 
> Here are gigabyte's naming conventions, but the list is a bit outdated:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigabyte_Technology
> 
> X i do believe stands for (e)xtreme, i think all X boards have OC capability, while non X aren't necessarily inclined too.
> 
> P stands for power when you talk about the UP5, Up4, and UP7. It is a new name convention to signify ultra durable 5, so if the board has ultra durable 5 then it will be a UP board, and have the extremely powerful and advanced VR technology, however the cost of the VRs on those boards costs a lot, so not all boards have it and not all need them, but it if just another level of durability to promote longer life of the components and higher overclocks(theoretically) even tho the typical UD3H or UD5H would OC as high as the UP boards, however the UP boards should be able to do it on less vcore.


I read that Wiki entry and it is indeed outdated.

My theory being that X stands for Digital Power Regulation vs Analog on non X boards. Only the models with an X are labeled with "Digital Power Engine'" on the Gigabyte website.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> The 'X' stands for digital voltage regulation (source). The Gigabyte website lists only the boards with an 'X' in the model name as having 'GIGABYTE All Digital Power Engine' (source). VRM on the other Z77 boards is analog then, if present. Feel free to throw in your two cents.


But without an official statement from Gigabyte, all we can do is guess. I only have the label for Digital Power Engine on the 'X' boards and the addmittedly obscure statement in the afore mentioned forum to go on that X stands for Digital VRM.


----------



## DeXel

Gigabyte Z68 boards were marked with X. None of them used digital design.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Read them all, filter what you read, cross reference the articles with one another and take your time. Familiarize yourself with the steps by aiming for a mild overclock before moving forward and remember to keep an eye on your temps.
> 
> And read this one too.
> 
> The 'X' stands for digital voltage regulation (source). The Gigabyte website lists only the boards with an 'X' in the model name as having 'GIGABYTE All Digital Power Engine' (source). VRM on the other Z77 boards is analog then, if present. Feel free to throw in your two cents.


Damn, I like this guy. Well written. +rep


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Gigabyte Z68 boards were marked with X. None of them used digital design.


The X standing for digital VRM is only for the Z77 lineup according to one of the sources I listed!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Damn, I like this guy. Well written. +rep


Thanks!


----------



## Sin0822

yea dino works for gigabyte, so he would know. X standing for digital power could make sense, BUT not always. I have a Z77-HD4 right here, it uses a IR3564 which is a 4+1 digial PWM, but the board doesn't' have an X. So X would be boards with unlocked vcore, I haven't tossed the HD4 on and checked for vcore adjustment, I would guess however it isn't present.


----------



## Sin0822

holy crap dudes, guess what I just found out, the Z77-HD4 has vcore control, and it uses a pretty high quality 4 phase VRM. i am going to see how high i can OC, but this board has some crazy memory OC, it might become one of those really damn good values. All settings are present for OC.

so the X prob might just stand for extreme, maybe its just a marketing gimmick, or maybe it is to say X is for all boards which can do Ln2 OC. something like that, i will ask GB what it stands for.


----------



## svenge

For Z77 models, "X" = SLI-capable. If you look at THIS TABLE (midway down page) of all Gigabyte Z77 models, every single one that has SLI starts with either Z77X (full-size ATX), Z77MX (mATX), or is a G1.Sniper; every model that doesn't have the "X" (excluding the Snipers) doesn't have SLI.


----------



## Sin0822

yes that makes more sense.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea dino works for gigabyte, so he would know. X standing for digital power could make sense, BUT not always. I have a Z77-HD4 right here, it uses a IR3564 which is a 4+1 digial PWM, but the board doesn't' have an X. So X would be boards with unlocked vcore, I haven't tossed the HD4 on and checked for vcore adjustment, I would guess however it isn't present.


Thanks for confirming that he indeed works for GA! That lends a lot more credibility to his post I linked to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svenge*
> 
> For Z77 models, "X" = SLI-capable. If you look at THIS TABLE (midway down page) of all Gigabyte Z77 models, every single one that has SLI starts with either Z77X (full-size ATX) or Z77MX (mATX), while every model that doesn't have the "X" (excluding the Snipers) doesn't have SLI.


That was my original assumption too. But after finding Dino's statement I went with the digital VRM theory, especially since only those boards are labeled having 'Digital Power'. But you're right, in addition, only the one's that have 2x PCI 3.0 have the 'X' after the Z77 also. So it may well stand for Xtreme having both "Digital Power" (however GA defines 'Digital Power) as well as SLI/ xFire. Well, let us know what you find out atfer talking to GA, Sin0822!


----------



## svenge

The "X" can't stand for CrossFireX capability, since while _all_ the "X" models can do it, _some_ of the non-"X" models can as well.

I think that the SLI-capable mATX motherboard model Z77MX-D3H might be the model to prove/disprove some theories on the naming convention. Does it have the same type of power distribution/delivery systems as, say the Z77X-D3H? If it doesn't, then I think that "X" might solely mean SLI-capable, and indicate nothing else feature-wise.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Sorry, I meant SLI *as well as* Crossfire. Not sure about VRM on the Z77MX-D3H. We'll have to wait for Sin0822 to tell us. Having X stand for SLI might not go well over with nVIdia though, I would think that most people would associate an X in regards to graphics with AMD Crossfire.

EDIT: Here's another link for an overview of the Z77 7 lineup btw, hardware secrets isn't pulling up for me (at work







).


----------



## Sin0822

its digital and has vcore control, i am not sure if it is the same as the other board.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> what you are doing wrong is using that crap
> 
> really a 7870 is awesome, lucid will only give you crashes, flickering, bugs, etc


he wasn't asking for your opinion of the software; just how to get it to work. I wouldn't mind so much, but then you don't even tell him how to get it to work.

You have to enable iGPU in bios for the Lucid thing to work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Has anyone using a UD5H board having any issues with the internet ? LAN on this board
> 
> it seems as if i am having some issues - after some use , it seems to not work , locks up , as if the network is down etc,
> 
> a reboot is all thats needed , but not sure if this is my network or the board LAN , i have tried both of them , not sure which i have it plugged in now , i think its the top LAN on the board
> 
> i notice a new bios show LAN improvement , has anyone updated to this 15o bios and did the LAN improve ? did it cause other issues ?
> 
> thanks


I have not had any issues with using either LAN on the board


----------



## Kiros

I have a weird issue with the UD5H motherboard and dual channel ram.
It goes on a nonstop reset every 6 seconds when my ram is set in dual channel but boots up fine if it's set on single channel.
This is my second motherboard since I RMA-ed the first one with the same problem.
I am using the Samsung Magic ram kit


----------



## Sin0822

what slots are you plugging the memory into?


----------



## h3r1t4g3

Hello, I am having a issue with my GA Z77-UD3H motherboard. I just finished my build a week ago but have ran into a problem. My screen flickers non stop. At first I didn't notice this because I had my GPU installed, but since having to RMA it and use the on board graphics I've seen nothing but these flickers. Has anyone else had this problem? This is my build for compatibility purposes. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/z5Dw


----------



## Kiros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> what slots are you plugging the memory into?


I think I found the problem now. but I was plugging them into slots 1/2 and 3/4 and it just loop resets every 5 seconds
Manual says
4 | 2 | 3 | 1
Slots 1/2 and 3/4 are dual channel.

Apparently there was a small nick on one of the corners of my 3770K CPU when I was delidding it.


----------



## homestyle

I haven't been in this thread in a while.

Is there a new bios that allows us to voltage control more than 2 fans in speedfan?


----------



## Belial

What is the bios switch for, what does it do? (ud5h). Seems a bit worthless.

I didnt know you had to pull the plug on power and all when doing a cmos reset. on my old build (sig rig for $300 system, a770e3 phenom x4) what i did was turn off, move the cmos jumper from sticks 1-2 to 2-3 or whatever, then boot up the computer for a second, then turn it off, move back cmos jumper, and good to go.

never had a problem. i guess i wasnt supposed to do that or just my new mobo is different ;/

Anyways, here's my overclocking results guys. I've got 2 3570ks and I'm trying to bin them - the better one I'm going to keep and delid, the other I'm selling basically. I'm coming from AMD, so I have absolutely no idea where voltages, temps, are supposed to be, what frequencies and temps you generally see, what's a good chip, a cool chip, a hot chip, etc. For Phenom/Deneb/AMD it was very straightforward - instability occurs at 55*C+ but up to ~60-62*C was fine for a max temp (if you didnt crash at that temp), stay below 1.55v (above is dangerous, 1.6 is really pushing it), stay below 1.4-1.5cpu-nb....

This is just my results of this particular chip I have, various stuff. Optimal defaults (disabled sata slots im not using which is all but one basically, set ram to 1333mhz even though xmp is stable at 2000mhz cl7 1.65v, disable c1e and powersaving features, etc), and vcore llc at either turbo or extreme (played around with it to see if it'd make diference)

4.8ghz 1.5 = 8m hyperpi @ 82*C, x124 5 minutes in p95 max ram blend. Multimeter said 1.526vcore
4.9ghz 1.55v = 1m hyperpi fine, 84*C, x124 instant p95
5ghz was a total flop. no way to get it work - turbo, extreme llc, i tried up to 1.6vcore. I did 8m hyperpi but had rounding errors, max temp was 88*C.
5.1ghz fails at w7 splash screen, no way to even log in or validate even at 1.6v

I always thought that IB was like super hot if not delidded, like anything above 1.3v was impossible or something. but I'm not going over 90*C here even with 1.6vcore. However I can't even boot into 5. So is this a cool chip, or is it a bad chip because it can't go far?

I'm just trying to 'bin' these 2 chips to see which is better, that's realy what im trying to do here.

edit: im using nh-d14

and i think temps jumped to 99*C right before a crash on p95. i think p95 gets way hotter than hyperpi, maybe i didnt realize how hot it was getting. maybe thats why it was crashing immediately lol.


----------



## mandrix

The bios switch just switches between either of the (dual) bios. It's helped me out a time or two. I have had bios get corrupted before to the point of not wanting to boot, and flipping the switch enabled me to boot and copy the backup bios to the main.(or vice versa)

Yeah for a cmos reset you need to shut down, pull the plug, probably hold the power switch in for a few seconds to fully drain the board, then hit the cmos button.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> What is the bios switch for, what does it do? (ud5h). Seems a bit worthless.
> 
> I didnt know you had to pull the plug on power and all when doing a cmos reset. on my old build (sig rig for $300 system, a770e3 phenom x4) what i did was turn off, move the cmos jumper from sticks 1-2 to 2-3 or whatever, then boot up the computer for a second, then turn it off, move back cmos jumper, and good to go.
> 
> never had a problem. i guess i wasnt supposed to do that or just my new mobo is different ;/
> 
> Anyways, here's my overclocking results guys. I've got 2 3570ks and I'm trying to bin them - the better one I'm going to keep and delid, the other I'm selling basically. I'm coming from AMD, so I have absolutely no idea where voltages, temps, are supposed to be, what frequencies and temps you generally see, what's a good chip, a cool chip, a hot chip, etc. For Phenom/Deneb/AMD it was very straightforward - instability occurs at 55*C+ but up to ~60-62*C was fine for a max temp (if you didnt crash at that temp), stay below 1.55v (above is dangerous, 1.6 is really pushing it), stay below 1.4-1.5cpu-nb....
> 
> This is just my results of this particular chip I have, various stuff. Optimal defaults (disabled sata slots im not using which is all but one basically, set ram to 1333mhz even though xmp is stable at 2000mhz cl7 1.65v, disable c1e and powersaving features, etc), and vcore llc at either turbo or extreme (played around with it to see if it'd make diference)
> 
> 4.8ghz 1.5 = 8m hyperpi @ 82*C, x124 5 minutes in p95 max ram blend. Multimeter said 1.526vcore
> 4.9ghz 1.55v = 1m hyperpi fine, 84*C, x124 instant p95
> 5ghz was a total flop. no way to get it work - turbo, extreme llc, i tried up to 1.6vcore. I did 8m hyperpi but had rounding errors, max temp was 88*C.
> 5.1ghz fails at w7 splash screen, no way to even log in or validate even at 1.6v
> 
> I always thought that IB was like super hot if not delidded, like anything above 1.3v was impossible or something. but I'm not going over 90*C here even with 1.6vcore. However I can't even boot into 5. So is this a cool chip, or is it a bad chip because it can't go far?
> 
> I'm just trying to 'bin' these 2 chips to see which is better, that's realy what im trying to do here.
> 
> edit: im using nh-d14
> 
> and i think temps jumped to 99*C right before a crash on p95. i think p95 gets way hotter than hyperpi, maybe i didnt realize how hot it was getting. maybe thats why it was crashing immediately lol.


AMD is more fun but you don't have to work so hard at this. I posted details in this thread before, with my 3570k I get a 1GHz overclock to 4.4 GHz with a simple offset of *+0.04 V* everything else is *default*. Your 1.5+V is too much, above 4.4 Ghz you have diminishing returns.


----------



## Sin0822

you can just hit the clear CMOS button without turning anything off, and it will clear the CMOS, but to fully clear everything you need a full shutdown.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> The bios switch just switches between either of the (dual) bios. It's helped me out a time or two. I have had bios get corrupted before to the point of not wanting to boot, and flipping the switch enabled me to boot and copy the backup bios to the main.(or vice versa)


I didn't realize you could copy over the bios. how do you do that exactly? So basically instead of doing a cmos reset you just flip the switch, copy over a bios from a profile that you have saved on the back-up bios (? i thought you couldnt edit the bios on back up or something... or is that you can't update it?), and then boot up with those settings on the main bios?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> AMD is more fun but you don't have to work so hard at this. I posted details in this thread before, with my 3570k I get a 1GHz overclock to 4.4 GHz with a simple offset of *+0.04 V* everything else is *default*. Your 1.5+V is too much, above 4.4 Ghz you have diminishing returns.


I'm not asking about diminishing returns, I enjoy overclocking. I got the $79 UD5h over a $19 g41 or $64 extreme4 because I want to push a high end 24/7 air overclock, as long as I stay within voltage and temp limits (and I'm okay with liberal limits too) I'll be happy to push voltage an extra .2 or whatever just for another 100mhz. You can say it's diminishing return but an extra 100mhz is still extra performance, that's a good fps or few extra in streaming.

Why do you say AMD is more fun?

Thanks for your post though, i think 1.5v maybe bit too much.
Quote:


> you can just hit the clear CMOS button without turning anything off, and it will clear the CMOS, but to fully clear everything you need a full shutdown.


Ah i got the impression from the manual that it was damaging or something. What exactly doesnt get cleared if i don't turn if fully off? or do you mean, like, if you got a bad bios settings and can't boot, if you dont pull off power and all, there's a chance a cmos reset might not actually reset it 'enough' and you still can't boot in, requiring a full effort, power off, plug pull, cmos reset.

Anyways does on/off charge feature work with verizon droid phone, ie not apple? I'm a bit confused on this feature - do I need this to charge the phone when the pc is off (but plugged in), or with non-apple phones you'll off charge without needing this special program?

I only got a single search result for non-apple phones with on/off charge, the only response was some unintelligeble garble, the guy said his pc turned off charged his droid but he didn't make clear if he was using the program and it was necessary, or he wasn't.

and do people use the atheros or intel lan (i see there's a driver or lan optimizer for the atheros chip on gigabytes site).

on a side note the uefi (that's the screen that lets you move the mouse around?) doesnt let me move the mouse up/down, only side to side, and it's laggy. but why would anyone use the uefi over the bios (the one where you clearly use a keyboard, looks more traditional)?


----------



## Sin0822

on/off charge works with every USb device, i change my phone with it. It just means that the USb port will be power while the system is off. And gigabyte boards allows almost 3x the current to the USB ports including USB 3.0 than the standard, because they use one fuse per port and these fuses can handle more current.

You can copy over the main BIOs to the backup by pressing ALT+F10 on bootup, ALT+F9 also works, but you need to flick the switch after the main BIOS loads into the memory, and then press write and then it will write to the backup, don't worry if it says fixture. Anyways ALT+F10 is to just copy main to backup, and the thing is you have a BIOS ROM and then you have CMOS. CMOS has all your settings, and it is wiped out if there is a loss of power, from the battery or otherwise.

The Clear CMOS switch is just a switch which totally cuts off power to the board(even cuts the battery power) and when that happens the CMOS memory is gone, and thus your CMOS is reset. The BIOS is just the physical ROM in the chip. However the issue is that sometimes the PSU's capacitors still have power in them and supply electricity and can charge some of the capacitors(that is why your power button stays on even while you turn off the PSU's switch). Then you also have the board storing power in its caps too, so the best way to clear the CMOS is to unplug the PSU, then take out the battery, and short out the battery leads(this will help discharge some of the caps) and then hold down the clear CMOS button to discharge everything else.

When i need to clear the CMOS I just hit the button, but sometimes that might not work, some parts are still in the memory and you need to wipe them with total power loss.

After you flash a BIOS it is imperative to do a power cycle as the CMOS needs to be cleared, sometimes it isn't and causes major issues with settings sticking after BIOS flash.


----------



## Belial

wow. thanks lol.
Quote:


> that is why your power button stays on even while you turn off the PSU's switch).


dat detailed response. i feel like your right behind me.


----------



## mandrix

The way they have these bios set up now, they will always power cycle after using Qflash to flash the bios, which is good.

Just to add to the general knowledge, pin 9 (+5V SB) on the motherboard 24 pin connector stays hot when the rig is shut down. I use it and pin 7 (ground) to supply +5V to my Aquaero fan controller in standby mode.
Flipping the psu switch of course cuts all power to the motherboard, except what is stored in the capacitors as Sin said. Pressing the power switch for a few seconds helps drain the board before doing a full cmos clear.


----------



## mandrix

Unreal. After many months of not having the dreaded USB 3.0 port failure message, all of a sudden it constantly pops up on one of my UD5H boards.
I broke a pin on the Intel header so I'm using one of the headers on the edge of the board.
I just started using this board again after a few months of using the UP4 TH, and the first thing I did was update the bios and drivers. Aaaaargh!

My other UD5H which has been in use constantly had the error messages related to the USB ports pop up 3 times yesterday after being banished for many months. I'm using the Intel USB 3.0 header on this board. WTH.

Did anyone ever nail down exactly what causes this? I assumed it was the early crappy drivers since I had not seen it in so long, but now it's back for some reason.
Might be time for a new fresh Windows install.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h3r1t4g3*
> 
> My screen flickers non stop. At first I didn't notice this because I had my GPU installed, but since having to RMA it and use the on board graphics I've seen nothing but these flickers.


Did you install the Intel HD Graphics Driver?
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=22375


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Unreal. After many months of not having the dreaded USB 3.0 port failure message, all of a sudden it constantly pops up on one of my UD5H boards.
> I broke a pin on the Intel header so I'm using one of the headers on the edge of the board.
> I just started using this board again after a few months of using the UP4 TH, and the first thing I did was update the bios and drivers. Aaaaargh!
> 
> My other UD5H which has been in use constantly had the error messages related to the USB ports pop up 3 times yesterday after being banished for many months. I'm using the Intel USB 3.0 header on this board. WTH.
> 
> Did anyone ever nail down exactly what causes this? I assumed it was the early crappy drivers since I had not seen it in so long, but now it's back for some reason.
> Might be time for a new fresh Windows install.


Under Windows 8 Pro (USB 3.0 drivers built-in) on my UD5H, I have found inconsistent results from USB 3.0 devices. I have no problems with my Lexar 32GB USB 3.0 Jumpdrive or with my WD My Book 3TB USB 3.0 on either the Intel or Via USB headers. But a Corsair Flash Voyager GT 32 GB USB 3.0 drive only works on the Intel header, giving a USB device not recognized error on all other USB 3,0 ports. I figure the problem is both problematic drivers and problematic hardware (perhaps both the Via chip & the Corsair drive which I have already RMAed once).

BTW On my P55A-UD4P, the USB 3.0 ports produce exactly the same inconsistent results with these devices under Windows 8. That machine has a NEC USB 3.0 controller (do I remember correctly that it was bought by Via?)


----------



## 8bitG33k

Whenever I setup hardware RAID from within the BIOS, I get a blue screen. I set SATA Mode to RAID, go into the RAID setup screen, setup my RAID, reboot and get a BSOD. I have my SSD hooked up to one of the SATA 3 connectors and my two WD Blues hooked up to two of the SATA 2 headers. I boot up and I get a BSOD.

The board manual doesn't state anything about this but do the drives I want to use for the RAID setup need to be plugged into specific SATA headers?


----------



## Sin0822

make sure they are in the black headers.

Mandrix, i think there is an option you can set so that those notification don't pop up, i think that was part of the fix for some.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Unreal. After many months of not having the dreaded USB 3.0 port failure message, all of a sudden it constantly pops up on one of my UD5H boards.
> I broke a pin on the Intel header so I'm using one of the headers on the edge of the board.
> I just started using this board again after a few months of using the UP4 TH, and *the first thing I did was update the bios* and drivers. Aaaaargh!
> 
> My other UD5H which has been in use constantly had the error messages related to the USB ports pop up 3 times yesterday after being banished for many months. I'm using the Intel USB 3.0 header on this board. WTH.
> 
> Did anyone ever nail down exactly what causes this? I assumed it was the early crappy drivers since I had not seen it in so long, but now it's back for some reason.
> Might be time for a new fresh Windows install.


you have to update all other drivers like Intel Management Engine Interface,SATA ,USB 3.0 Driver i say "all" because that's how i got rid of it (probably need one of this but might as well do all of them )
if you did update them all just disregard this


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BobLeProf*
> 
> Under Windows 8 Pro (USB 3.0 drivers built-in) on my UD5H, I have found inconsistent results from USB 3.0 devices. I have no problems with my Lexar 32GB USB 3.0 Jumpdrive or with my WD My Book 3TB USB 3.0 on either the Intel or Via USB headers. But a Corsair Flash Voyager GT 32 GB USB 3.0 drive only works on the Intel header, giving a USB device not recognized error on all other USB 3,0 ports. I figure the problem is both problematic drivers and problematic hardware (perhaps both the Via chip & the Corsair drive which I have already RMAed once).
> 
> BTW On my P55A-UD4P, the USB 3.0 ports produce exactly the same inconsistent results with these devices under Windows 8. That machine has a NEC USB 3.0 controller (do I remember correctly that it was bought by Via?)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> make sure they are in the black headers.
> 
> Mandrix, i think there is an option you can set so that those notification don't pop up, i think that was part of the fix for some.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> you have to update all other drivers like Intel Management Engine Interface,SATA ,USB 3.0 Driver i say "all" because that's how i got rid of it (probably need one of this but might as well do all of them )
> if you did update them all just disregard this


So the board that has been in constant use only had the problems yesterday, today they are gone. Nothing ever quit functioning, so I don't know.
On my other UD5H rig the messages were non stop yesterday for whatever reason.
The only things plugged in are the mouse/KB receiver, and it's in USB 2.0 in the rear. Like I said I plugged the front USB 3.0 into the Via headers on the edge of the board, maybe that's where it's coming from.

Anyway guys thanks for the replies, all drivers up to date AFAIK. Sooner or later I'll get it fixed or I'll put the UP4 back in.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> make sure they are in the black headers.
> 
> Mandrix, i think there is an option you can set so that those notification don't pop up, i think that was part of the fix for some.


Thanks for the response. Yes, they are in the black SATA 2 headers.
Quote:


> two WD Blues hooked up to two of the SATA 2 headers


EDIT: What's even stranger, is that after having a few of those RAID related BSOD's, my Logitech G110 Keyboard game profiles keep dissapearing, even after un-and re-installing the Logitech Game Profiler app several times. Every time I boot into Windows from a coldstart, I have to uninstall and then reinstall again to get my Keyboard settings back. The Logitech G9 mouse is still there but the Keyboard goes awol now each time I cold boot.


----------



## 8bitG33k

On another note, I cant get Intel Rapid Start to work either. Perhaps the two issues are related and there is something wrong with this board.

I should be able to shutdown my PC and when I hit the power button it should be pretty much back on instantaneously. At least that's my understanding of Intel Rapid Sart. Except that I cant get it to work. I shut down my PC and when hitting the power button it boots as it normally would. On a friends ASRock board (with an AMD APU), he demonstrated his 'Instant On' function and I was impressed. He shutdown his PC (ie no fans running) and when he hit the power button his desktop immediately popped up on screen.

According to all the research I've done I should be seeing this (from Sean's SSD thread) (topmost image, circled in red).

However I am only seeing this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







No 'Accelerate' Button like it shows in Sean's thread.

Intel Rapid Start is enabled in BIOS.

What am I missing here people?


----------



## Sin0822

did you enable rapid start in the UEF?

Did you also set SATA mode selection to RAID? Did you follow the directions in the manual on how to setup RAID? If you have SATA selection mode on IDE, then rapid start BIOS option greys out.


----------



## Belial

I have intel rapid storage selected in bios and AHCI on my intel sata6 port0 (every other port is disabled since i only need 1 sata port), all power saving options disabled, and just a single ssd system. What you speak of, I dont have it, even though i have rapid storage enabled. I also get the whole boot animation and stuff. I dont know much about what you are talking about, ive heard rapid storage is beneficial for single ssd but i know nothing else about it. I also get the same rapid storage menu as you.


----------



## 8bitG33k

To be sure, these are two separate issues which may or may not be related.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> did you enable rapid start in the UEF?
> 
> Did you also set SATA mode selection to RAID? Did you follow the directions in the manual on how to setup RAID? If you have SATA selection mode on IDE, then rapid start BIOS option greys out.


Whenever I set the SATA mode to RAID that's when I get a BSOD. It will boot up to the Windows Logo animation and then bsod.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I have intel rapid storage selected in bios and AHCI on my intel sata6 port0 (every other port is disabled since i only need 1 sata port), all power saving options disabled, and just a single ssd system. What you speak of, I dont have it, even though i have rapid storage enabled. I also get the whole boot animation and stuff. I dont know much about what you are talking about, ive heard rapid storage is beneficial for single ssd but i know nothing else about it. I also get the same rapid storage menu as you.


I was referring to Rapid Start, not Rapid Storage although the two may be one and the same (see image in prev post). If I understand this correctly, it is the same thing as the Gigabyte EZ Rapid Start Utility. Basically it enters the PC into a low power sleep mode which allows to resume operation almost instantly when turning the PC back on. But when I hit 'Sleep' my PC turns off and on 2 times and then displays the Windows logon screen.

And yes, I did partition my SSD according to the instruction in the manual.


----------



## DeXel

Gigabyte EZ Rapid Start Utility is easy way to set up Intel Rapid Start. The fact that you are getting BSOD after setting RAID implies that something is wrong with Windows.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Your reasoning makes sense and your explanation is to the point.

Well, it's been a week since I installed Windows, so its probably a driver or something.


----------



## Sin0822

hey also watch your BBS priorities after you change SATA mode as some order might change.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> I was referring to Rapid Start, not Rapid Storage although the two may be one and the same (see image in prev post). If I understand this correctly, it is the same thing as the Gigabyte EZ Rapid Start Utility. Basically it enters the PC into a low power sleep mode which allows to resume operation almost instantly when turning the PC back on. But when I hit 'Sleep' my PC turns off and on 2 times and then displays the Windows logon screen.
> 
> And yes, I did partition my SSD according to the instruction in the manual.


Yea rapid start, rapid storage... same thing. or rather, i think its rapid start but someone was incorrectly saying storage. w/e.

As I understand it, the EZ rapid start utility by gigabyte is to easily set up the computer, but it's crap, it just installs for you 3 programs (some cloud/facebook/twitter media crap, SRT which is for hdd+ssd, and rapid start which is mostly for multiple ssds or something but it helps out single ssd's too). You can just manually install these programs yourself. that's what i did.

like i didn't use the installation cd. i just went to the website and installed the drivers. had to use a wireless usb stick for internet connection but otherwise ezpz.


----------



## 8bitG33k

I'm re-installing Windows here in a few days anyway. Which website Belial, Intel or Gigabyte?

I was really impressed with my friends ASRock Instant Boot utility, his PC was literally on the same second he pressed the power button. My guess is that this is ASRocks equivalent of Gigabyte's EZ Rapid Start.

@ sin0822, I will remember to check the boot device priorities once I'm ready to setup RAID again.


----------



## Belial

I suppose intel would be better. Technically id think the best site for drivers is the manufacturer itself (intel for intel lan, atheros for atheros lan, via for via sound, etc) but the gigabyte site is probably much more convenient. i think i did most drivers on GA but the hd graphics from intel (was having some issues i think on that one so i went to intel site and eventually got it that way, may be using intel site may be from some other setting being changed that solved that, w/e).

I have intel rapid storage tech installed, its in my taskbar/icons and all. but when i power on/off its as you say, whole boot process. might be because i disabled all power saving options though, c1e, c states, etc. i dont really know what you are talking about but it sounds cool and im wondering if my system isnt working as it should be or if im missing out on some cool feature.


----------



## 8bitG33k

I'm gonna play around with it some more and report back once I figured it out.

As for the RAID issue, I'm still getting BSODs even after making sure my SSD was still selected as the primary boot device. I have a small 64GB SSD which I use to boot, then my 2 WD Blues on which I install everything else.

EDIT: Hm, ponder this:

As before, I selected SATA Mode as RAID, then created a RAID array using the CTRL+I method. Rebooted, got a blue screen of course. Then I went back into BIOS set SATA mode back to AHCI but DID NOT delete the RAID array from the CTRL+I config screen this time. With AHCI selected I booted into Windows only to find that I now have a new volume (598GB total from 2x320GB HDD's) available in the Windows Disk Management utility...







which I can now add as a new simple volume.

So it seems you have to select RAID, setup the array and then switch it back to AHCI - at least in my scenario for whatever bizarre reasons.

EDIT 2: Aaah, but now the Intel Rapid Storage Utility no longer shows the two WD Blue drives and it states that 'Your system is reporting one or more events and Data may be at risk'.


----------



## eBombzor

Can someone help me find the drivers for my NIC? It's a Qualcomm Atheros AR AR8161/8165. I can't find it on Google anywhere


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Can someone help me find the drivers for my NIC? It's a Qualcomm Atheros AR AR8161/8165. I can't find it on Google anywhere


Right here my friend.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Can someone help me find the drivers for my NIC? It's a Qualcomm Atheros AR AR8161/8165. I can't find it on Google anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right here my friend.
Click to expand...

Sorry I meant the latest drivers. That's not even the right board. http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl

I just need the latest drivers for my NIC when I do a fresh install. Gigabyte's website has dated drivers.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Sorry I meant the latest drivers. That's not even the right board. http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl
> 
> I just need the latest drivers for my NIC when I do a fresh install. Gigabyte's website has dated drivers.


It's the same NIC on these boards though. This may be the latest version already. And I don't think having the latest NIC drivers is as crucial as having the latest chipset drivers.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Sorry I meant the latest drivers. That's not even the right board. http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4327#dl
> 
> I just need the latest drivers for my NIC when I do a fresh install. Gigabyte's website has dated drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> It's the same NIC on these boards though. This may be the latest version already. And I don't think having the latest NIC drivers is as crucial as having the latest chipset drivers.
Click to expand...

I just like having the latest and greatest


----------



## stasio

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html

...under Drivers


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html
> 
> ...under Drivers


The Atheros driver on that post is dated to the one off of Gigabyte. Tweaktown: 2.1.0.13 - Gigabyte: 2.1.0.7


----------



## stasio

Yea,on TweakTown is newer (latest).


----------



## mandrix

stasio is really great about keeping latest drivers updated at TT.








That's the first place I look.


----------



## Sin0822

yea stasio always has the latest and greatest!









BTW Yesterday I was messing with the Z77-HD4, and it even has the slew rates. I have this PSC kit, not the best, its 2133cas9T2 by default, i have never gotten it over 2400mhz, well i tried slew 5 on the HD4 and first boot at 2600C8T1 i was like damn, that is pretty awesome.


----------



## svenge

*Sin0822*: So how exactly is the GA-Z77-HD4 in terms of quality? It looks like a decent candidate for a budget i3 or non-K i5 build, but would it be able to O/C the +4 multipliers that non-K i5 chips are partially unlocked at?

To the untrained eye (i.e. mine) it looks to be an evolution of the GA-Z77-D3SH, but with the addition of a heatsink for the VRMs north of the CPU, removal of the (largely useless) mSATA slot and replacement of the Atheros LAN hardware with a more common Realtek solution. Is that about it?

Also, is there any real difference between the -HD4 and the -HD3 except for the latter model lacking DisplayPort and S/PDIF outputs?


----------



## adridu59

@Sin0822 Slew rate? Is this common amongst all motherboards?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svenge*
> 
> *Sin0822*: So how exactly is the GA-Z77-HD4 in terms of quality? It looks like a decent candidate for a budget i3 or non-K i5 build, but would it be able to O/C the +4 multipliers that non-K i5 chips are partially unlocked at?
> 
> To the untrained eye (i.e. mine) it looks to be an evolution of the GA-Z77-D3SH, but with the addition of a heatsink for the VRMs north of the CPU, removal of the (largely useless) mSATA slot and replacement of the Atheros LAN hardware with a more common Realtek solution. Is that about it?
> 
> Also, is there any real difference between the -HD4 and the -HD3 except for the latter model lacking DisplayPort and S/PDIF outputs?


IDk about HD3 to HD4, but I do know that you can overclock and change vcore and you get all the digital PWM stuff for the vcore only.

Z77 DS3H or whatever couldn't even change the vcore, this board can change vcore and it has much better memory topology. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative to the Z77X-D3H, then this would be a pretty good option. I bet it could run a 4.5ghz OC without issue. I will do more investigating into the CPU OC, as the board only has 4 phases for the vcore, but I am sure it is more than enough. GIGABYTE tends to always side with caution with boards that have VRMs not conducive to overclocking. aka. they don't want to get a bunch of RMAs with blown FETs from boards which they don't think can handle it, so they tend not to provide vcore control on boards which haven't proved themselves worthy. I was kind of surprised when they sent me this HD4, I honestly didn't think it had vcore control, but I was surprised. HD4 might be their cheapest board with vcore control.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> @Sin0822 Slew rate? Is this common amongst all motherboards?


slew rate was added into the latest betas across almost all GIGABYTE Z77 boards, it will greatly help if you are trying to overclock PSC or Samsung based memory, any setting other than 1 is best for those two types of memory, however before the boards only would set that value to 1(well its a made up setting of some other settings, but 1 is default) so you need to change it.


----------



## MasterTB

Hi, I'm in real need for help,
I have also posted this here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1357138/z77x-ud5h-voltage-problems

I have the Wifi version of this board with a Core i7 3770k installed cooled with a Thermaltake frio.
The problem I have is that, even though I set the vcore manually at 1.180 to achieve a 4.1 oc (I'm just warming up) the board sets it to 1.250 after I boot and enter windows. And of course, there's no way to cool down the CPU once I start linx or Prime for a long period.

Why the hell is it doing that? Where is the setting to use MY voltage and not whatever the mobo desires.
Also, if I set the offset to do 0.020 more, instead of rising the vcore to 1.18 (from 1.160) it also sets it to 1.250.
Load line calibration does nothing but raise it more (in any settings)

I have revision 1.1 with F14 bios.
EDIT: Furthermore, I have been playing with the bios and there is no way to set a custom voltage. No matter what I set as VCORE the board boots a 1.250 when I overclock the cpu. What the hell is this?
I have turbo enabled at 41x and the default clock of the cpu at 35x no messing with the BCKL

So.. with deffault all, the motherboard sets the voltage at 1.160 when turbo kicks in
If I set the voltage or offset manually to any value (have never gone past 1.250), the board sets it at 1.250/1.280 under full load, no matter what I set for LLC in any of the LLC settings of the motherboard !! What is wrong with this thing?

Any clues or help? Thank you.


----------



## Sin0822

BTW do you have a digital multimeter? you can manually read vcore if you have one.


----------



## Encrypted18

I love my Z77X-UD5H! Such A reliable and trustworthy manufacture. Running My 3570K and 7950 like a dream!


----------



## MasterTB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BTW do you have a digital multimeter? you can manually read vcore if you have one.


If you're asking me, no I don't have one. But I doubt that every software, including Gigabyte's own will be telling me the same thing and bein wrong at the same time.
Besides, how can it be, that every voltage I set gets overwritten to the same value by the motherboard, other than due to some hardware failure or coded feature that I haven't been able to disable (assuming there is one)


----------



## Sin0822

something is wrong, it might be some resistor fell off or is shorted and it is picking one voltage from the VID table to always goto, i would deff RMA. Don't tell them you OCed.

BTW on another subject look at this HD4 go:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/psc26001m.png/


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Yea,on TweakTown is newer (latest).


Well my NIC isn't supported on this driver anyway. That driver only supports 815x, not 816x, which is what I have.


----------



## Sin0822

One more time with the UD4H:


Excellent memory OC. Just remember, use the slew lol slew rate 5 on both boards: UD4H and HD4 exact same behavior, but i bet memory OC is better on the HD4. That was with 6 tries, first set everything slew 2, then slew 3 then slew 4 than slew 5 and slew 5 worked. Then lower vDimm to 1.85v and boot. Remember on the HD4 to set IDE to AHCI, so annoying.


----------



## Shift.

Make sure all the power saving options are disabled in the BIOS.

C1E, C3/C6/C7 State Support, and EIST. Also disable Turbo Boost.


----------



## Belial

Just wanted to note something to you guys, sin0822.

So 4.6ghz/1.4vcore, p95 above normal priority max ram, at the 19th hour, #3 worker fail. I'm having to feed ridiculous volts for tiny overclocks. I changed the following settings in 3d power:

PWM Phase control: eXtreme Performance
Vcore Voltage Response: Fast
Vcore LLC: Extreme.

It seems to help. 4.6 wont boot at 1.3v, but it will with these settings like this (instead of all at auto but llc as turbo). [email protected] failed in 20 minutes instead of 5. Little things like that. It is rather consistent though, like [email protected] wont boot but now, it just had worker errors.

So I'm going to try [email protected], with these crazy voltage settings. Maybe its just im seeing different errors or something, but it appears to be helping with stability (ie what wouldnt boot before, now boots, whats an instant bsod on login is a bsod at p95 after a few minutes, etc).


----------



## DeXel

You are dealing with Ivy Bridge. My chip also need ridiculous amount of voltage for anything above 4.4-4.5 Ghz. That's pretty much normal if you got a bad chip. I really hope Haswell is going to be better...


----------



## Sin0822

you gotta cool it down and use less volts. Ivy can also degrade, like don't be pushing it too hard at 1.5v+ like 100% load you are just asking to degrade it if you are above ambient and stressing it hard at 1.5v+. I only use over 1.5v to test max frequency, and even then I wont boot over 1.5v, i keep the load at high voltages as little as possible.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Well my NIC isn't supported on this driver anyway. That driver only supports 815x, not 816x, which is what I have.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterTB*
> 
> Hi, I'm in real need for help,
> I have also posted this here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1357138/z77x-ud5h-voltage-problems
> 
> I have the Wifi version of this board with a Core i7 3770k installed cooled with a Thermaltake frio.
> The problem I have is that, even though I set the vcore manually at 1.180 to achieve a 4.1 oc (I'm just warming up) the board sets it to 1.250 after I boot and enter windows. And of course, there's no way to cool down the CPU once I start linx or Prime for a long period.
> 
> Why the hell is it doing that? Where is the setting to use MY voltage and not whatever the mobo desires.
> Also, if I set the offset to do 0.020 more, instead of rising the vcore to 1.18 (from 1.160) it also sets it to 1.250.
> Load line calibration does nothing but raise it more (in any settings)
> 
> I have revision 1.1 with F14 bios.
> EDIT: Furthermore, I have been playing with the bios and there is no way to set a custom voltage. No matter what I set as VCORE the board boots a 1.250 when I overclock the cpu. What the hell is this?
> I have turbo enabled at 41x and the default clock of the cpu at 35x no messing with the BCKL
> 
> So.. with deffault all, the motherboard sets the voltage at 1.160 when turbo kicks in
> If I set the voltage or offset manually to any value (have never gone past 1.250), the board sets it at 1.250/1.280 under full load, no matter what I set for LLC in any of the LLC settings of the motherboard !! What is wrong with this thing?
> 
> Any clues or help? Thank you.


You talking about CPU Core voltage or CPU VID voltage???!!!! (hehe)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1285652/official-z77x-up5-up4-d3h-th-owners-club-discussion-and-info-thread/480

Btw,
if you using HWiNFO for reading...CPU _Core_ voltage is bellow "Intel PCH" coloumn......"Master".......:


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Well my NIC isn't supported on this driver anyway. That driver only supports 815x, not 816x, which is what I have.
Click to expand...

Wait what are you referring to?

This driver?



Where did you find that list? I'm confused now because Gigabyte's website has 2.1.0.7 while this one is 2.1.0.13, which looks like an older version.


----------



## DeXel

13 > 7.

0.13 < 0.7

Sometimes driver version is confusing to read, but I think it's the first case now, so 13 is newer.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> 13 > 7.
> 
> 0.13 < 0.7
> 
> Sometimes driver version is confusing to read, but I think it's the first case now, so 13 is newer.


Oh. I guess Atheros is too cool for math laws.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> 13 > 7.
> 
> 0.13 < 0.7
> 
> Sometimes driver version is confusing to read, but I think it's the first case now, so 13 is newer.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you gotta cool it down and use less volts. Ivy can also degrade, like don't be pushing it too hard at 1.5v+ like 100% load you are just asking to degrade it if you are above ambient and stressing it hard at 1.5v+. I only use over 1.5v to test max frequency, and even then I wont boot over 1.5v, i keep the load at high voltages as little as possible.


Well I've even run 1.6v (before delid, getting a feel for chips). I had 88*c on hyperpi and then instant bsod on p95 (5ghz/1.6v). 5.1/1.6v froze at boot animation, and would freeze in bios 10 seconds in. I dont know if degradation is the issue, because the other chip I tested acted similarly - actually, it acted worse (about 100mhz worse, ie what would be a p95 fail 20 minutes in the 'better' chip would be instant bsod in p95, what would be instant bsod in login or hyperpi would be no boot on the other). I mean the 2nd chip, the first thing I did was run 4.5ghz/1.5v, and then try to keep raising frequency using gigabyte tweaklauncher and it acted similar to this first, better chip, but slightly worse (loads up 4.9, but instead of failing at 5.1ghz, it would fail at 5ghz, by just throttling to stock frequency though).

Now maybe the chip hit like 100+ and i just didn't know because it was an instant bsod, but I've never actually seen temps go above 100. I saw 99*C for a second on [email protected], it bsod's instantly. But otherwise my temps are pretty good, like around [email protected], I'm hitting a max of 79*C (that's probably the 8fft length) and generally its 55-65*C the whole time (as in if i reset the temps on hwinfo after the 8fft length, and come back 12 hours later, the max will be under 70*C). I also ran 8fft length min/max custom and 88*C was my max at like [email protected] i believe (setting might be slightly different but something like that).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You are dealing with Ivy Bridge. My chip also need ridiculous amount of voltage for anything above 4.4-4.5 Ghz. That's pretty much normal if you got a bad chip. I really hope Haswell is going to be better...


Could you explain the profile of your bad chip? 4.6ghz at 1.3v was instant bsod in login, 1.35v was bsod in 5 minutes p95, 1.4v was a single error on 3rd core 19 hours into p95. With me having changed the PWM settings (pwm phase at eXtreme performance, vcore phase at fast, and vcore llc at extreme), I've been running [email protected] on p95 for like 5 hours now no problem. Maybe it'll fail at 12+ hours again and just mildly like an error instead of bsod, but it felt to me that changing the pwm settings as i did, helped gain some stability (ie what was instant bsod on 1.3v, is just p95 bsod after a minute, what was 5 min bsod on 1.35v, is like 20 minute). I'm thinking I can maybe get 24 hour stable on slightly less voltage than 1.4v.

It passing 24 hours might just be luck on 1.4v, but on slightly less voltage than what failed before, with these changed settings, i think would be telling that these pwm settings help.


----------



## DeXel

Oh man... I don't really remember exact voltages, but I needed about ~1.4v to boot with 4.6 Ghz, but the system would BSOD after few minutes of Intel Burn Test, or give an error in AIDA64. Temps were skyrocket high too (100+ C). Currently using it at 4.5Ghz with ~1.36v, and temps stay below 80, and going to keep this way until I see what Haswell brings.


----------



## Belial

Did you delid? That sounds about right. But I have 2 chips like that. Both bought from different stores even. Try what I did and change all those pwm settings, its helping me. i mean to be sure we'll see in ~18 hours but i failed on worker 3 at the 19th hour on [email protected], and now I'm testing [email protected] and it seems smooth with the pwm phase at extreme perf, vcore voltage change at fast, and llc at extreme. ill probably try to figure out which of those is the helper tommorow. I was thinking of increasing the cpu switch rate too, from 500khz to like 600khz or something but not sure if thats safe. the phase on these boards doesnt get hot at all so why not.


----------



## Belial

A few questions-

- ram settings, what is 'performance enhance' setting for? can't figure that out.

- what's up with those "uefi vs legacy' settings in the boot options? is that to turn off that 3d mode uefi? because that thing is ugly, i hate the 3d bios.

- What is the cpu pwm switch rate, is 600, the max value, dangerous at all (i mean on the ud5h no way this phase is gonna get hot on even 1.6v, right? im assuming in hwinfo those are my vrm temps because it matches my nzxt sentry 2 sensor readings). thinking of setting that 600 just because im struggling so much here and changing some of the pwm values already has helped my overclock a noticeable amount.

- How do you do offset voltage control on this board? cant figure that out either

- and do people overclock using turbo? i think ive read a few places about that... like you dont increase core ratio, you set your overclock using turbo. i think im just getting myself confused here.

like eventually i want to use the power saving features (i assume use offset voltage, manually set core ratio to 4.5ghz+, work with the offset voltage to match it to the vcore that was stable using manual voltage and p95 test it to make sure, keep LLC and those pwm settings the same as before when doing manual voltage).

thanks. i was a bit overwhelmed with the bios settings at first, but now i seem to understand all of them. its all so self explanatory, for the most part. biostar had a bit too much "X: increase X to have more X". i feel like this board has a lot less options than the gigabyte board did, yet feels like it has more control at the same time (all those pwm and llc settings...).


----------



## DeXel

Nope didn't delid it. This CPU doesn't worth it.

UEFI vs legacy is all about GPT vs MBR boots. Also with UEFI boot you can use fast boot and secure boot of Windows 8.

Offset is called DVID on these boards. It's in the same menu as vcore. You have to set vcore to normal to enable it.

Turbo vs Core ratio seem to be the same thing on these boards, but somebody can correct me if I am wrong. I just have EIST enabled and the multiplier jumps.


----------



## Belial

I really dislike the way the menu is in this sysytem. I wish on the right they'd at least say what your options are. Like how am I supposed to know to type in "Lite PWM". And it's capital sensitive too...

Yea, the manual, I know. But some of these things I wouldn't think twice that about that. I thought that 'auto' was normal, that that you just set 1-2-3-4 for corresponding high/low on the pwm settings, etc.

rep, thx.

I think I'll probably end up with some measly overclock on 1.45v. On your guide Sin0822, you said that max for air was like 1.55v. I guess you mean for benching or something, that wasnt' made clear and from what I read elsewhere (1.6v 24/7 no degradation) and just my propensity to raise the crap outta voltage (i tend to push hardware really hard) i think i saw 1.6v as the highest for 24/7 overclock on air (provided temps stayed within reason, which it doesn't unless you delid and have decent cooling, which i do, although nh-d14 might be the lower limit of that).

Or rather, 1.6v was what I wanted to hear. like i just want to throw 1.6v and see highest frequency i can get lol. i dont care anymore about sweet spots and marginal returns, if .2v gets me 100mhz, even 50, im pretty okay with that.

Obviously i dont want to run the chip into the ground, and I'd like to avoid serious degradation, but provided I keep temps within acceptable limits (since temps affect stability anyways, not as much an issue of damage) I'm okay with high voltages. I guess I'll keep 1.45 as my limit, maybe go up to 1.49 only if that what it takes to get that extra 100mhz or something but otherwise 1.45.


----------



## filtrhy

Hello everybody!
I'm having a problem with my GA-Z77X-UD3H.
The bios have a very large resolution and the mouse pointer is slow.
How can I fix this?
Came with bios 'F11' bios and I updated to 'F18' and 'F19e' and the problem remains. I installed 2 drivers on my HD 6950 thinking it might be but it was not.


----------



## coolhandluke41

update your bios and use your keyboard (arrows )

you can download your bios from here or Giga website

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *filtrhy*
> 
> Hello everybody!
> I'm having a problem with my GA-Z77X-UD3H.
> The bios have a very large resolution and the mouse pointer is slow.
> How can I fix this?
> Came with bios 'F11' bios and I updated to 'F18' and 'F19e' and the problem remains. I installed 2 drivers on my HD 6950 thinking it might be but it was not.


Yea Gigabyte's BIOS doesn't do well with mice. It happens to me too.


----------



## Sin0822

to go through different options you can press +/- or page up and page down is what I use. THey have a key on the side bar which tells you how to control it. Some options have the ability for you to click on it or press enter to see what they are. Page-up/down is the easiest thing.


----------



## Belial

Does anyone else have a problem of running 2000mhz on the UD5H? Or do I have bad RAM? 3570k/ud5h/mushkin enhanced blackline ridgebacks, 2x2gb, 2000/cl7/1.65v, 996902.

Like I thought i fixed the problem, that the ud5h just cant do 2000mhz, when i set the ram to 2133mhz with xmp on, but didnt realize xmp was loosening the timings to fit some sort of profile so it was stable only at 2133/cl9/1.65v.

I see a few other people say this problem on the web... not much though, and its not really confirmed what the issue is in those cases.


----------



## Mr357

I've got a UD3H rev 1.1 and I haven't been able to install the USB 3.0 drivers. Tried both the Intel and VIA drivers given on the site, and neither have worked. In fact, the VIA driver won't install at all. Anyone know the fix for this?


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Does anyone else have a problem of running 2000mhz on the UD5H? Or do I have bad RAM? 3570k/ud5h/mushkin enhanced blackline ridgebacks, 2x2gb, 2000/cl7/1.65v, 996902.
> 
> Like I thought i fixed the problem, that the ud5h just cant do 2000mhz, when i set the ram to 2133mhz with xmp on, but didnt realize xmp was loosening the timings to fit some sort of profile so it was stable only at 2133/cl9/1.65v.
> 
> I see a few other people say this problem on the web... not much though, and its not really confirmed what the issue is in those cases.


Depend on memory IC and setting of "Slew rate" in the newest BIOS.
I think is PSC chips,so try slew rate 2 or 3.


----------



## Sin0822

UD5H can do 3000mhz lol. Just depends on the memory and timings. You can copy my timings from the other page, but deff use the slew rate, and deff enable XMP.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I've got a UD3H rev 1.1 and I haven't been able to install the USB 3.0 drivers. Tried both the Intel and VIA drivers given on the site, and neither have worked. In fact, the VIA driver won't install at all. Anyone know the fix for this?


I had some driver install issues at first too (my fault). Try downloading intel drivers from the actual intel site, and via drivers from actual via site, etc. Manually install them. You can also use device manager to manually apply drivers.
Quote:


> Depend on memory IC and setting of "Slew rate" in the newest BIOS.
> I think is PSC chips,so try slew rate 2 or 3.


I had F14 when I got the board, the F15's are beta bioses. Are they worth getting?

What is 'slew rate'?

And I think the problem is stability. I increased voltage using GTL to 1.7v, and no longer had instant rounding errors in hyperpi, could last p95 blend testing, and even passed 500%+ of 4 x hci memtest (seems to be the best 'short term' tester for me, besides a straight up 24 hour p95 test).

I was thinking that like the ud5h doesnt play with 2000mhz, gotta do 1866 or 2133, based on what i had read of other people (google like unstable 2000mhz xmp ud5h and you get a few results of people not knowing whats up, i think someone said even that ud5h cant do 2000 or something, not sure, that, combined with me raising 2133 but not knowing the timings loosened automatically, i believed that).

Kinda lame. I have yet to give the guy feedback on ebay for the ram (i mean I paid $27 and he gave $2 back because he said shipping was cheaper... even at $25 2x2gb 2000 CL7 1.7v ram / 1866 CL7 1.65v is pretty good deal, no? gonna test it in another computer to make sure its not something else)

Setting up a system with the MSI g41, interesting board. The mouse moves in UEFi much smoother (and for me, my steelseries kinzu doesnt move up/down in gigabyte, need to use a wireless lenovo mouse if i cared but i prefer keyboard anyways, i hate 3d bios too). I think the msi bios is set up better too, lots of information made very plain for you.

Not that I care, but it's a stark contrast to the gigabyte board. I mean I dont mind paying 5x as much for a board that has a much worse interface, really. Like I'd be upset if the VRM or chipsets or whatever was slightly lower quality because they put more effort into a pretty bios. But it's interesting.

MSI has this utility, live update, gets all the drivers and crap you need. Gigabyte doesnt have a utility like that. I wonder if you can use MSI Live Update, on a Gigabyte board? Like can you do that, use other companies utilities on your board? Use GTL on an Asus? I know msi kombostor gpu utility is just rivatuner and gpu's are all either nvidia or radeon, but I wonder if it's like that with motherboard. I mean i would think so, right?


----------



## mandrix

Is anyone able to do screenshots in the F15q beta bios?
I was wanting to get some screenies for a new UP7 owner but no go. My USB stick is recognized, no problem, but nothing happens when I hit F12.
I even reformatted the usb stick but that did not help. Otherwise it works fine, can flash bios, etc, just no screen shots so I'm thinking it's bios related.

BTW here's my delidded 3770K on one of my UD5H boards:


----------



## coolhandluke41

is it FAT32 ?


----------



## Sin0822

belial if you don't want that kit I can trade you for a 2400mhz C11 kit, its an 8gb kit. KHX24C11T1K2/8X

nice job mandrix


----------



## Belial

pm'd but i dont understand why you'd want to trade better, bigger ram, for smaller, unstable, slower ram. Can you remove the heatspreaders in any way on those? I can remove the ridges on these ridgebacks so its just the plain heatspreaders on, which is cool, which i need to do to fit the nh-d14 in my case (i could just move up the fan, but then it wouldnt fit in my case). I mean I'd be up for the ram even if i had to pry off the heatspreaders, just curious what needs to be done.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> is it FAT32 ?


Yeah. I even reformatted it but no go. I want to know if someone else using F15q can do screenies?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> belial if you don't want that kit I can trade you for a 2400mhz C11 kit, its an 8gb kit. KHX24C11T1K2/8X
> 
> nice job mandrix


Thanks.


----------



## Sin0822

some betas have broken screenshot capability, its just something that happens with some betas. if I have a chance i will try it.


----------



## gotskil

I just ordered this board as a replacement for the Asrock board I currently have. I will be running 560 ti's in SLI. Do I need to use the supplemental sata power connector on the board? I just watched the newegg video on the board and the guy mentioned something about this.


----------



## Belial

Guys I figured out what Performance enhance is. It's... some cas latency, I forgot what. It's apparently an important, but obscure one. On default 'turbo', the motherboard actually sets it really high, like ~4. Default is actually more like 10+. I think it might dynamically change it too. Basically you should set this setting to Normal unless you don't overclock RAM, in which case it's like a very minor overclock to you.

Funny, yet another way Gigabyte (i mean they all do it) 'cheats' the board so it gets better benchmarks compared to other boards at stock - which I don't think is bad at all, don't get me wrong. I'm just really surprised how many tech reviews will 'bench' motherboards and then say one is better than another based on this score that isn't even right, that's really the problem (i mean if all boards are running gear at same spec they'll bench exactly the same).

Anyways, so it turns out only one of the 2 ram sticks can't run XMP at default XMP voltage.

One of the sticks failed:
Memtest86+ (2nd pass started to get errors)
HCI Memtest (errors quickly)
Prime95 (within 5 minutes hardware failure error)
Windows memory diagnostic actually passed

The other stick has no problem with any of these tests, although I haven't done a 24 hour test yet. And yes my overclock is still being figured out but I'm down to 18+ hours stable now, just finetuning the voltage, but I think such memory benchmark failures right away is pretty obvious (and i did stock anyways, or reduced overclock on higher voltage).

Thinking of trying to RMA it.


----------



## stasio

^You should accept Sin offer...hehe


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotskil*
> 
> I just ordered this board as a replacement for the Asrock board I currently have. I will be running 560 ti's in SLI. Do I need to use the supplemental sata power connector on the board? I just watched the newegg video on the board and the guy mentioned something about this.


Only if you have stability issues. It's more for 3+ gpus. Even overclocking just 2 GPUs, I don't think it'd be necessary.
Quote:


> ^You should accept Sin offer...hehe


He didn't realize it was 2x2, but we're talking. Meanwhile I should start an RMA request anyways.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> some betas have broken screenshot capability, its just something that happens with some betas. if I have a chance i will try it.


Cool. I just wanted to show a new Gigabyte owner some screenies for when he gets his rig running with his UP7. Don't install it if you aren't already using it, Sin,
I guess I could always go back to F14 for a bit and get some screen shots.

On another note, something I finally figured out that had me puzzled for a while, concerning boot loops, restarts and such.
I'm running SSD's on both Intel SATA III ports
SSD & Seagate HDD on Marvell ports
2x WD HDD's & DVD burner on Intel SATA II ports

If the BBS priorities in the BIOS aren't setup as Disk 0 > 1 > 2 > 3 etc with the Marvell ports last, I often run into boot loops.

Also, I seem to have a SATA data connector that occasionally loses contact with one of the HDD's on a SATA II port. When this happens, I get the exact same boot problem as if the BIOS knows and expects the HDD to be there.

Otherwise if the boot priorities are set up correctly and everything is functioning as it should, zero boot problems.

Just something to check if you run a lot of drives as I do and experience reboots on cold startup.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I guess I could always go back to F14 for a bit and get some screen shots.


Just flip BIOS switch (hope you are not flashed both BIOS chips with same BIOS).


----------



## aprossi

Hello, i´m from Brazil and i´ve just bought this Z77X-D3H but i´m having a problem with it.
I´d installed the OS in my Samsung 830 SSD with no problem, and the pc is working fine. I received 2 Barracudas 1 tb HD to mount a raid array, then I set the marvell ata port to raid array at bios option and mounted the array sistem by pressing crtl+M. Now the sistem is not booting, i´m receiving this message "a read error disk occurred / press crtl + alt + del to restar" and the sistem hangs, the keyboard is not responding. If a leave the marvell ata port to IDE or AHCI the sistem boots with no problem. The hd´s are brand new, and the same problem occurred with my old HD502HJ 500Gb array too. I´m using the bios version F16. I also tryied to mount the raid array with intel controller and the same problem has occurred... I don´t know what else can i do?!
Please i need help. Tks to all!!


----------



## expresso

Has anyone having issues with there internet using the UD5H board and Win 8 , ever since i got this system up and running , it seems that my internet is having issues , gets stuck , frozen , etc, - sometimes i just reboot , or i connect to my wireless , but today i got stuck and could not get it working , i ending up rebooting my cable box,

i just cant help but feel thats its the board , Win 8 or both , i am leaning on the board more ,

i am using F14 bios ,

is anyone else having these issues and any solutions of fixes ?

i tried both NIC on the board , i think the intel NIC was worse and i am now using the bottom NIC which i think is not intell

any ideas or solutions would be appreciated !!!

thanks


----------



## DeXel

No problems here. I use F15t with modified oROMs from tweaktown. Also Intel 17.4 drivers for LAN.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> No problems here. I use F15t with modified oROMs from tweaktown. Also Intel 17.4 drivers for LAN.[/quote
> 
> is that the new version F15T ? what is modified oROMs ?
> 
> where did you get those drivers ? we are using the same board UD5H version 1.1 ? i forgot to mention that before , if it makes a difference
> 
> thanks


----------



## Sin0822

with Windows 8 it is most likely the case that you need to keep everything as up to date as possible, you might want to give one of those BIOS with modified ROM a shot.


----------



## expresso

i just checked on the website for the latest which is 17.4 which i just installed , the driver now shows 12.2.45

i was expecting to see 17.4 , i guess it dosnt work that way , i put my cable back to the other NIC already , and rebooted my cable box

who knows maybe the cable box was acting up ,, i see how it works now but i have it on the other NIC , not the intel

that one is up to date with the driver ,

another issue i notice is when i go to my computer screen and see all my Hard drives there , when i click on one of them , it sometimes takes a min. to actually show up and be able to use it , sounds like its having a hard time to access that drive ,

i have two WD blacks , i have each drive split into two drives so it shows up as 4 hard drives in my computer ,

i have the OS drive SSD , and two dvd drives ,

i have each cable from each device on one port of the SATA ports on the board , i have the SSD drive on the White port which i think is intell,

i have the WD drives on the Gray ports one each , and the dvd drives on the black ports , one each also ,

i am not sure if i need to update drivers for those SATA ports ? i am not sure what drivers i need to install or update , if thats the case

it seems when i click on a drive to use it , most times it takes a min to get in , the other hard drives seem to just go right in once i click it ,

seems like Lag for the controller to talk to the HD ? but once i get in the drive and i go back and forth , its fine and goes in faster , only when i dont use it for a while and then want to access it again , it may hang for a min. not a real min. but a few seconds , maybe 10 or 15 secs

where the other drives go right in , not sure if this is because of the partition of the drives or just the controller ,

in device manager i see Marvell storage controller , driver version is 1.2.0 then i have Microsoft storage space controller which shows a driver version of 6.2.9200.16384 with a date of 2006 so its a old driver , i dont know what this controller is connected to if anything

i though it was only the intell and marvell controllers on here ,

the intell controller shows a driver of - 11.5.4.1001 dated 8/16/2012

i am not sure which drivers on the Gigabyte site do i look for to check if these can be updated or not ,

does this happen to anyone else ? i never paid too much attention to this and just let it go but now i am curious if a update would work better or if this is normal ?

thanks


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> with Windows 8 it is most likely the case that you need to keep everything as up to date as possible, you might want to give one of those BIOS with modified ROM a shot.


where are those modified bios etc, ?

are they from the Gigabyte site or somewhere else , are they stable or beta's ?

its running fine for the most part , better than i expected , it seems much better now that i rebooted the cable box , but i also put the cable on the other NIC now , its not intell i believe

its on the bottom NIC ,

if i did update the bios at some point , it would wipe out my OC settings ? if i keep the profiles saved , would i be able to just load up the saved profiles after i updated the bios ? or do i have to start all over

thanks


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> with Windows 8 it is most likely the case that you need to keep everything as up to date as possible, you might want to give one of those BIOS with modified ROM a shot.


where are those modified bios etc, ?

are they from the Gigabyte site or somewhere else , are they stable or beta's ?

its running fine for the most part , better than i expected , it seems much better now that i rebooted the cable box , but i also put the cable on the other NIC now , its not intell i believe

its on the bottom NIC ,

if i did update the bios at some point , it would wipe out my OC settings ? if i keep the profiles saved , would i be able to just load up the saved profiles after i updated the bios ? or do i have to start all over

thanks


----------



## expresso

whow sorry about all those posts

have no idea how that happened


----------



## DeXel

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48085-gigabyte-modified-bios.html Updating will wipe all settings.

F15 branch adds support Windows 8, but there is still no stable release yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> whow sorry about all those posts
> 
> have no idea how that happened


Forum bug...


----------



## nexgenasian

just got me a UD3H with a 3770k. was testing out a single 8 gig stick from crucial in memtest+ 4.2 and in the bios its all 9 9 9 24, but in memtest+ it's saying 6 6 6 20. when i stick the second ram stick in for dual memory its back to 9 9 9 24. You think its a memtest+ bug?


----------



## Belial

memtest isn't reading latencies like it's normally read out. If you check your finer cas latencies in bios or hwinfo you'll see that that memtest is pulling them up differently.

i believe. like my ram is 7-8-10- something and in memtest it was like 6-6-6-6 and it read like 75bclk, my ram being like 2014mhz instead of 2000...


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aprossi*
> 
> Hello, i´m from Brazil and i´ve just bought this Z77X-D3H but i´m having a problem with it.
> I´d installed the OS in my Samsung 830 SSD with no problem, and the pc is working fine. I received 2 Barracudas 1 tb HD to mount a raid array, then I set the marvell ata port to raid array at bios option and mounted the array sistem by pressing crtl+M. Now the sistem is not booting, i´m receiving this message "a read error disk occurred / press crtl + alt + del to restar" and the sistem hangs, the keyboard is not responding. If a leave the marvell ata port to IDE or AHCI the sistem boots with no problem. The hd´s are brand new, and the same problem occurred with my old HD502HJ 500Gb array too. I´m using the bios version F16. I also tryied to mount the raid array with intel controller and the same problem has occurred... I don´t know what else can i do?!
> Please i need help. Tks to all!!


When you initially install Windows using AHCI you need to 'hack' the registry if you want to enable RAID mode afterward. Try either this auto-fix or this guide. Make sure you have the correct driver installed, reboot, go into BIOS and change SATA mode to RAID and see if that solves your problem.


----------



## Belial

I dont understand turbo. If I enable turbo, the system ignores what i set in core ratio. So i set the values in the core1/2/3/4 areas, right.

But what is it doing for me? My system still downclocks to 1.6ghz on low/light load or only loads up some cores to 4.6 on light load, as long as all the other power options are enabled. Isn't turbo not about energy saving, but about increasing performance if you are on stock? So there's no point to turbo if you are overclocking and pushing the system to it's limit anyways?

Can you do something like, if you have a bad chip, maybe only one of the cores is bad, and do something like 50/50/50/45 to get around that bad core?

I'm assuming when you set core ratio on the ud5h, its actually a turbo multi applied to all cores? And then when you enable the turbo option, it just listens to the turbo values instead of core ratio value? On the msi g41 board i have, even if i have turbo/enhanced turbo enabled, it goes by what core ratio i set....


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Just flip BIOS switch (hope you are not flashed both BIOS chips with same BIOS).


Nah, I always end up flashing both BIOS the same. I think I will go back to F14 for back up. Not really sure the recent betas are doing anything for me anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i just checked on the website for the latest which is 17.4 which i just installed , the driver now shows 12.2.45
> 
> i was expecting to see 17.4 , i guess it dosnt work that way , i put my cable back to the other NIC already , and rebooted my cable box
> 
> who knows maybe the cable box was acting up ,, i see how it works now but i have it on the other NIC , not the intel
> 
> that one is up to date with the driver ,
> 
> another issue i notice is when i go to my computer screen and see all my Hard drives there , when i click on one of them , it sometimes takes a min. to actually show up and be able to use it , sounds like its having a hard time to access that drive ,
> 
> i have two WD blacks , i have each drive split into two drives so it shows up as 4 hard drives in my computer ,
> 
> i have the OS drive SSD , and two dvd drives ,
> 
> i have each cable from each device on one port of the SATA ports on the board , i have the SSD drive on the White port which i think is intell,
> 
> i have the WD drives on the Gray ports one each , and the dvd drives on the black ports , one each also ,
> 
> i am not sure if i need to update drivers for those SATA ports ? i am not sure what drivers i need to install or update , if thats the case
> 
> it seems when i click on a drive to use it , most times it takes a min to get in , the other hard drives seem to just go right in once i click it ,
> 
> seems like Lag for the controller to talk to the HD ? but once i get in the drive and i go back and forth , its fine and goes in faster , only when i dont use it for a while and then want to access it again , it may hang for a min. not a real min. but a few seconds , maybe 10 or 15 secs
> 
> where the other drives go right in , not sure if this is because of the partition of the drives or just the controller ,
> 
> in device manager i see Marvell storage controller , driver version is 1.2.0 then i have Microsoft storage space controller which shows a driver version of 6.2.9200.16384 with a date of 2006 so its a old driver , i dont know what this controller is connected to if anything
> 
> i though it was only the intell and marvell controllers on here ,
> 
> the intell controller shows a driver of - 11.5.4.1001 dated 8/16/2012
> 
> i am not sure which drivers on the Gigabyte site do i look for to check if these can be updated or not ,
> 
> does this happen to anyone else ? i never paid too much attention to this and just let it go but now i am curious if a update would work better or if this is normal ?
> 
> thanks


The gray ports are the Marvell ports and can operate at SATA III speeds. I don't ever load any of Marvell's drivers, seems like Windows drivers work well enough. You might look at my earlier post about BBS boot priorities and see if it helps. For me having the Marvell ports lowest in BBS priorities works out best, not really sure why.

I would plug my boot drive into the white SATA_0 (botttom next to the board), any other SATA III capable drive into the other white port. Then of course you can put any SATA III drives in the two gray Marvell ports, and just populate the rest of the ports as you see fit.


----------



## expresso

i do have the White port working my Main OS SSD drive - and thats all i have on it , i have the grey ports for the WD Blacks , but i only use one port for one drive and use the other port for the other drive

just figure i plug one in each port so i had enough and makes it easier if i had to unplug it by having just one plugged in since they stack under each other , and i did have to uplug it a few times when if first put it together ,

the black ports i am using for my dvd drives , i will double check the BBS boot and see what the story is there , that thing gets me confused , i understand it a little bit better now then at first ,

but still throws me off sometimes ,

thanks


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> http://www.cpuid.com/news/65-cpu_z_gigabyte_oc_edition.html
> 
> "CPUID launches GIGABYTE OC version of CPU-Z"
> 
> So I guess Gigabyte is trying to their own ROG style branding thing ... they don't need to try so hard with branding. What they need is _better fan control_, the hardware already dominates marketshare in hackintosh builds.
> 
> 
> 
> they also have g1 edition.
> 
> fan control, its a hardware thing, at least there aren't bigger issues.
Click to expand...

It's not quite "a hardware thing" in the context discussed here; although the firmware does a poor job at fan control, we need the Speedfan application to natively support this motherboard whereas at the moment it only provides minimal control (unless the new version of Speedfan referred to here actually expands the control set fully).


----------



## Sin0822

there are only so many fan control options in the sio. Its not like you can hook up a million fans to it and have 1 million individual controls, it isn't something that firmware or software can expand.


----------



## eBombzor

Hey what will happen if I put the PCI-e mode to 3.0 even tho I have an i3 3220?


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotskil*
> 
> ... Do I need to use the supplemental sata power connector on the board? I just watched the newegg video on the board and the guy mentioned something about this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Only if you have stability issues. It's more for 3+ gpus. Even overclocking just 2 GPUs, I don't think it'd be necessary.


I used it. Its such a PITA to reach on my setup using an Antec 300 case, 4HDD's, 2 GTX275's I figured why not-its not going to hurt anything, and there is no way I'm getting to it again without pulling my video cards and top hard drives. If I was running 3+ video cards I probably wouldn't have chosen the Z77 chipset though, probably go with x79 for more PCIe lanes.


----------



## $ilent

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good z77x-ud3h ivy bridge overclocking guide?

thanks


----------



## DeXel

http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## Sin0822

Just to clarify about the IT8728F, it has the ability to control 5 individual fan headers, in PWM mode. However the issue is that 4/5 header pins are shared with other devices, one stupid thing for instance is that fan 4 control pin is also linked to vcore_en pin which enables the PWM for the cpu vcore, obviously fan header 4 wont be controlled lol as the board wont work without that other function. The SIO has a ton of connectivity features, and only the first fan_crtl port is by itself. However with better fan control software it is possible to get more control, Right now they either provide control over 2 or 3 headers on the board. I think UD5H and UD3H are 2, but Sniper 3 and UP7 are 3.

http://wenku.baidu.com/view/7b55fad726fff705cc170a78.html


----------



## adridu59

They should switch to another one like what Asus uses.


----------



## $ilent

Thanks can anyone recommend a cheap digital multimeter off amazon.co.UK for me please? To measure CPU vcore


----------



## Hondilla

Hi,

I am owner of UP5 TH and since I format recently I am getting some issues.

Before format all was working fine, more specific, the USB 3.0 header 2 and 3, if I am not wrong from VIA USB HUB Controller.

After format, I cant make them working, I tested on Windows 7, Windows 8, Windows 8 with UEFI, and nothing work.

Tried with Gigabyte drivers, from Intel, updated the BIOS, but still not working, giving me errors like Unknow Device, Error Code 43.

I searched on Google, but the isnt any clear solution, hope you could help me.

Thanks!


----------



## DeXel

I hope you didn't install USB drivers on Windows 8. Try to switch XHCI options in Peripherals section of UEFI.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I hope you didn't install USB drivers on Windows 8. Try to switch XHCI options in Peripherals section of UEFI.


Why can't you install USB drivers on W8?


----------



## DeXel

Because Windows 8 includes them.


----------



## Hondilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I hope you didn't install USB drivers on Windows 8. Try to switch XHCI options in Peripherals section of UEFI.


I find the problem, or bug, well at least I think its a bug.

Isnt problem of drivers, the problem comes when you shutdown the computer and its something conected to this USB ports (header 2 or 3). After startup, the BIOS dont recognize that USB ports, this dont happen with Intel USB ports (header 1).

So I guess its energy problem with that ports.

To solve, just shutdown the computer, shutdown the powersupply, make free the residual energy, and startup, then plugin the usb device and will work. If you plugin it before startup will not work.

Can someone report this to Gigabyte or show where to do?

Thanks


----------



## Hondilla

Double post sorry.


----------



## DeXel

Can you label which ports do you mean? I have a device in each row of USB 3.0 ports, and don't experience such problems.
UD5H 1.0 and UP5 use the same hub. Also I just figured that you posted in the wrong thread...


----------



## Hondilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Can you label which ports do you mean? I have a device in each row of USB 3.0 ports, and don't experience such problems.
> UD5H 1.0 and UP5 use the same hub. Also I just figured that you posted in the wrong thread...


Yes, i saw it now sorry, anyway them both uses the same VIA Hub.

http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/8931/wholeboard.jpg

Bottom Left Corner, there are two 3.0 usb headers (num 2 and 3) controlled by VIA.


----------



## Sin0822

do you have fast boot enabled in the uefI?


----------



## Hondilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> do you have fast boot enabled in the uefI?


No I havent, anyway i tried on Windows 7/8 without UEFI.


----------



## stasio

No any VIA drivers are applicable for UP5 TH.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Guys I figured out what Performance enhance is. It's... some cas latency, I forgot what. It's apparently an important, but obscure one. On default 'turbo', the motherboard actually sets it really high, like ~4. Default is actually more like 10+. I think it might dynamically change it too. Basically you should set this setting to Normal unless you don't overclock RAM, in which case it's like a very minor overclock to you.
> 
> Funny, yet another way Gigabyte (i mean they all do it) 'cheats' the board so it gets better benchmarks compared to other boards at stock - which I don't think is bad at all, don't get me wrong. I'm just really surprised how many tech reviews will 'bench' motherboards and then say one is better than another based on this score that isn't even right, that's really the problem (i mean if all boards are running gear at same spec they'll bench exactly the same).
> 
> Anyways, so it turns out only one of the 2 ram sticks can't run XMP at default XMP voltage.
> 
> One of the sticks failed:
> Memtest86+ (2nd pass started to get errors)
> HCI Memtest (errors quickly)
> Prime95 (within 5 minutes hardware failure error)
> Windows memory diagnostic actually passed
> 
> The other stick has no problem with any of these tests, although I haven't done a 24 hour test yet. And yes my overclock is still being figured out but I'm down to 18+ hours stable now, just finetuning the voltage, but I think such memory benchmark failures right away is pretty obvious (and i did stock anyways, or reduced overclock on higher voltage).
> 
> Thinking of trying to RMA it.


i played with the 3 speed options

i found out they give better bench ram score in aida64


----------



## coolhandluke41

edit;nvm


----------



## Sin0822

if one out of your sticks fail you deff need to RMA it.


----------



## hpmoon

I know this isn't 100% on-point (though it might be) -- I've had such luck here with the collective expertise that I thought I'd throw it out there. I have a Nvidia GeForce GTX 285 video card and it always worked just fine on this same motherboard (UD5H), with the latest Nvidia drivers. However, as soon as I upgraded to Windows 8 Professional, the latest Nvidia drivers simply leave me at a blank screen after passing BIOS. I do see the low-res blue Windows logo, but after that, nothing. It leaves me, always, with no choice but to go into Safe Mode (a real pain in the ass now with Windows 8), and do a clean install of an Nvidia driver from mid-last year.

I'm posting about this here because the scant information I've found through Googling suggests maybe getting my BIOS and INF files updated, but I believe that's no issue -- I'm on BIOS v15 and installed the latest motherboard chipset files.

BTW, the problem with keeping the old Nvidia driver is that now Adobe Premiere CS6 crashes constantly, giving me an OpenGL error.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? I'm definitely not looking for advice like, "throw away the GTX 285, it's old." Not an option.


----------



## DeXel

Did you try 313 beta drivers? They work fine for me. I didn't have much like with 310s either.


----------



## xutnubu

Help, please. I want to take my 3570K to 4.2GHz.

So should I set the *main* multiplier to 42 or the *Turbo* multiplier to 42, or both?


----------



## 8bitG33k

I'm very puzzled by the UEFI. It seems that no matter how I cange MIT settings (Vcore, Multiplier), as soon as I get into Windows, vcore is set at 1.275v and the multiplier at 37x.

What am I missing here?


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xutnubu*
> 
> Help, please. I want to take my 3570K to 4.2GHz.
> 
> So should I set the *main* multiplier to 42 or the *Turbo* multiplier to 42, or both?


Set multiplier to 44 (4.4 GHz) and cpu voltage *offset* to +0.04 V everything else leave at default.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I'm very puzzled by the UEFI. It seems that no matter how I cange MIT settings (Vcore, Multiplier), as soon as I get into Windows, vcore is set at 1.275v and the multiplier at 37x.
> 
> What am I missing here?


Which BIOS? What are you using to check voltages and overclock? Are yu using Real Temp? Disable Turbo Boost, and only use main multiplier. Also several beta BIOSes had this problem.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Did you try 313 beta drivers? They work fine for me. I didn't have much like with 310s either.


Thanks, I did try that 313 beta driver, but my Windows 8 64-bit system hangs after passing BIOS as usual. Really getting desperate! I wish I could at least hear from someone who has successfully booted into Windows 8 64-bit using a GTX 285.


----------



## xutnubu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Set multiplier to 44 (4.4 GHz) and cpu voltage *offset* to +0.04 V everything else leave at default.


I don't get it.

I set the multi to 42, then set the Load-line calib at High, and the offset like you said, except increments are in 5, so +0.005, and I did the Prime95 test and the max voltage was 1.2v, which is too high for 4.2GHz.

So I decided that I was gonna set the offset to a negative value, I set it to -0.030, I'm running Prime95 now, max voltage is 1.116v, jumping not that frequently to 1.128v.

It's stable for now, but I think I'll crash on idle, 'cause I've seen it as low as 0.686v

I just don't understand this offset voltage thing. When I set the vCore to "Normal" to enable the "Offset Voltage" my vCore says is 1.100v, so I though if I was adding +0.05, doesn't that mean that my final result would be around 1.15v? and not 1.2v?!!!


----------



## DeXel

Offset values add and subtract from VID. Use Core Temp to figure out your current VID.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Thanks, I did try that 313 beta driver, but my Windows 8 64-bit system hangs after passing BIOS as usual. Really getting desperate! I wish I could at least hear from someone who has successfully booted into Windows 8 64-bit using a GTX 285.


Have you tried just using Windows 8 generic graphics driver and not the NVIDIA driver? May at least give you a workable solution.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I'm very puzzled by the UEFI. It seems that no matter how I cange MIT settings (Vcore, Multiplier), as soon as I get into Windows, vcore is set at 1.275v and the multiplier at 37x.
> 
> What am I missing here?


I think with IB/SB, you overclock using the Turbo Ratio. So what the Gigabyte boards do, that "Core Ratio" value, it's actually just a "Set the Same Turbo Ratio for All Cores" value.

I'm a bit confused by it, but I believe that Turbo is really a feature for people on stock/near stock, you use it to get a power boost when on a lower load or using less cores. When you are overclocking, you are pushing everything to the limit, so Turbo is a useless feature, even for energy-efficient overclocking.

I think the best way to overclock on these gigabytes, ib, sb, etc, is just set the turbo ratio/core ratio (one and the same, i believe), and keep all energy saving options on (from what I understand, they don't really affect stability, people saying to disable power saving features is like a throwback from a long time ago, like when people incorrectly say you gotta keep imc and vtt voltages related with .05v or something, although c1e and such might cause instability on low load/idle/sleep but that's not like during p95 testing).

On my board/bios, if you have turbo enabled and turbo values entered, it'll override the core ratio setting, whereas on my msi g41 board, it's the opposite. Just disable your turbo (or conversely, just set your overclock by changing all turbo core ratios to desired overclock).


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Thanks, I did try that 313 beta driver, but my Windows 8 64-bit system hangs after passing BIOS as usual. Really getting desperate! I wish I could at least hear from someone who has successfully booted into Windows 8 64-bit using a GTX 285.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried just using Windows 8 generic graphics driver and not the NVIDIA driver? May at least give you a workable solution.
Click to expand...

I suppose you mean just uninstalling the Nvidia driver and seeing what happens. Because Adobe's GPU-accelerated Mercury Playback Engine leverages the GTX 285 intimately for hardware acceleration of on-the-fly video processing, I'm skeptical that it will function without any Nvidia driver, but I'll give it a whirl (skeptically). The larger point is that I'm stunned Windows 8 is incompatible with my GTX 285 using any drivers since 1/2 year ago.


----------



## xutnubu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Offset values add and subtract from VID. Use Core Temp to figure out your current VID.


Thanks, now I get it.

My VID is 0.9257v at idle, 1.1709v at load (Prime95 1 hour) according to CoreTemp. This is with my CPU at stock speed (max 3.8GHz Turbo all cores). Does this seem right or too high?

So now I need to know how much voltage I need for 4.2GHz. And then add or substract the offset.

But I'm still kind of confused. What's the real voltage then? Why the VID is at 1.1709v and CPU-Z reports 1.116v?


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Vdroop, it also gets larger as you start overclocking.


----------



## DeXel

VID is different for every CPU. So are the voltages to get 4.2 Ghz stable. I can only recommend that you start with fixed voltage to find stable settings, and then switch to offset to make things easier.
Quote:


> What's the real voltage then? Why the VID is at 1.1709v and CPU-Z reports 1.116v?


Don't you have offset at -0.030 and LLC on Normal? Looks about right.


----------



## xutnubu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> Vdroop, it also gets larger as you start overclocking.


Holy crap it's a massive droop.

Now I just set the LLC to Extreme and the vCore on CPU-Z is 1.176, so much closer to the VID.

I'm getting the trick now


----------



## xutnubu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> VID is different for every CPU. So are the voltages to get 4.2 Ghz stable. I can only recommend that you start with fixed voltage to find stable settings, and then switch to offset to make things easier.
> Don't you have offset at -0.030 and LLC on Normal? Looks about right.


No, for that reading I had everything on stock an auto. So no LLC or offset.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> I suppose you mean just uninstalling the Nvidia driver and seeing what happens. Because Adobe's GPU-accelerated Mercury Playback Engine leverages the GTX 285 intimately for hardware acceleration of on-the-fly video processing, I'm skeptical that it will function without any Nvidia driver, but I'll give it a whirl (skeptically). The larger point is that I'm stunned Windows 8 is incompatible with my GTX 285 using any drivers since 1/2 year ago.


Are you using a dvi cable for connection? Does the 285 have dual dvi outs? If yes to both, make sure you are using the dvi-out closest to the mobo, or the lower dvi port. A long shot, but worth a try.


----------



## xutnubu

I decided I'll go for 4.4GHz max.

So I did as you told me and set a fixed voltage. With 1.155v I was able to boot right into Windows (1.150v freezes in BIOS).

So I did the Prime95 Blend test for 10min, CPU-Z reported 1.152v - 1.140v at full load, and it remained stable for that time.

What should I do now?


----------



## DeXel

Prime stable means at least few hours long stressing. People recommend at least 12 hours. Then just + or - offset from VID to get similar voltage as fixed.


----------



## xutnubu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Prime stable means at least few hours long stressing. People recommend at least 12 hours. Then just + or - offset from VID to get similar voltage as fixed.


I don't plan to use fixed 24/7.

It was just to find the vCore I needed for 4.4GHz.

Do you think I should test Prime95 8-12hours with offset now? Try to get it as close as 1.155v?

By the way, is it recommend to get the vCore as close as the VID as possible, or if I can run it lower I should? Because my VID was like 1.1909v.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Which BIOS? What are you using to check voltages and overclock? Are yu using Real Temp? Disable Turbo Boost, and only use main multiplier. Also several beta BIOSes had this problem.


BIOS F18. I'm using Core Temp, Gigabyte Tweak Launcher and AIDA64 to check voltages but they all seem to report something else. Although I realize it probably me who is misinterpreting what is being reported.

Idle


Turbo


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I think with IB/SB, you overclock using the Turbo Ratio. So what the Gigabyte boards do, that "Core Ratio" value, it's actually just a "Set the Same Turbo Ratio for All Cores" value.
> 
> I'm a bit confused by it, but I believe that Turbo is really a feature for people on stock/near stock, you use it to get a power boost when on a lower load or using less cores. When you are overclocking, you are pushing everything to the limit, so Turbo is a useless feature, even for energy-efficient overclocking.
> 
> I think the best way to overclock on these gigabytes, ib, sb, etc, is just set the turbo ratio/core ratio (one and the same, i believe), and keep all energy saving options on (from what I understand, they don't really affect stability, people saying to disable power saving features is like a throwback from a long time ago, like when people incorrectly say you gotta keep imc and vtt voltages related with .05v or something, although c1e and such might cause instability on low load/idle/sleep but that's not like during p95 testing).
> 
> On my board/bios, if you have turbo enabled and turbo values entered, it'll override the core ratio setting, whereas on my msi g41 board, it's the opposite. Just disable your turbo (or conversely, just set your overclock by changing all turbo core ratios to desired overclock).


Thanks! I did disable Turbo and that does indeed give me the correct clocks now after booting into Windows.

My biggest issue is understanding the terminology such as Offset and how it translates into how my BIOS calls it.

I assume that DVID is what my BIOS calls Offset? DVID= Dynamic Vcore?


[To make changes you simply highlight the setting and start typing a number, 'Normal', 'Auto', 'Extreme' or something like that? I mean, how would one know what to type, the manual isn't exactly helpful with this. Ok, I figured out that part now







]


----------



## DeXel

Core Temp reports VID. Aida indeed shows vcore. GTL should show the value you set in BIOS. Use CPU-Z.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Ok, I'm learning. Still struggling a bit with what VID is and how it factors into overclocking. I did figure out what LLC is once I went through every setting the board has to offer line by line.

Here's what I have so far. No idea if what I'm looking at is good or bad in terms of temps. I set the voltage according to the chart I found in the Ivy Bridge Overclocking Guide.



Vcore is fixed, no offset and LLC is set to Extreme.


----------



## DaClownie

OK, so my UD5H, still running F6 BIOS I believe (never had an issue, never updated) is now experiencing a weird issue, but I can replicate it consistently and make it stop happening just as consistently. My brother had issues with 2 of his hard drives, Samsung Spinpoint F1 500GB drives. I installed them in my computer to do some trouble shooting. I can't even get the computer to go into Windows 8 with them installed. Failing to load windows, it automatically trying to fix my installation, etc etc etc.

Figure wow, my brother destroyed these things, what the hell did he do. I call seagate, RMA the drives, get brand new ones back in last night. I gave them overnight to warm up (they were sitting out on my porch when I got home). Install them this morning. I go into BIOS, change from AHCI to RAID, launch the Intel RAID utility with CTRL + I, set up the array. Go to start the system up, and SAME EXACT THING!

I disable the hard drives ports in BIOS, won't start. Disable the array, won't start. Unplug the SATA cables from the ports? starts up perfectly.

Seems to me the issue is perhaps the SATA cables putting a bit of pressure on the corner of the motherboard and causing a connectivity issue with something? I really want to install a 5th and 6th hard drive in this machine. It's the PC in the sig...

Hard drives are as follows:

SATA 0: M4 128gb SSD
SATA 1: WD 500GB Caviar Black
SATA 2: ASUS 24x DVD-RW
SATA 3: 320GB Seagate Linux drive
SATA 4: Spinpoint F1 500gb (both currently unplugged so the system will boot)
SATA 5: Spinpoint F1 500gb (both currently unplugged so the system will boot)

I'm thinking of searching around for new SATA cables, maybe they're causing it? Perhaps ones without the metal clip (SATA3 standard) as it might put a bit less bending pressure? I think I have some cables in a box somewhere that have no clip that should fit in a bit looser than these do.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xutnubu*
> 
> I don't get it.
> 
> I set the multi to 42, then set the Load-line calib at High, and the offset like you said, except increments are in 5, so +0.005, and I did the Prime95 test and the max voltage was 1.2v, which is too high for 4.2GHz.
> 
> So I decided that I was gonna set the offset to a negative value, I set it to -0.030, I'm running Prime95 now, max voltage is 1.116v, jumping not that frequently to 1.128v.
> 
> It's stable for now, but I think I'll crash on idle, 'cause I've seen it as low as 0.686v
> 
> I just don't understand this offset voltage thing. When I set the vCore to "Normal" to enable the "Offset Voltage" my vCore says is 1.100v, so I though if I was adding +0.05, doesn't that mean that my final result would be around 1.15v? and not 1.2v?!!!


For a 1 GHz overclock you have to give it *more* voltage, not less. And 1.2V or a little higher is not too much. Intel Ivy Bridge CPUs do many things automatically regardless of your settings, and will compensate to achieve stability. A +0.04 offset is a reasonable starting point. Try AIDA64 to get a better reading on voltages.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> I suppose you mean just uninstalling the Nvidia driver and seeing what happens. Because Adobe's GPU-accelerated Mercury Playback Engine leverages the GTX 285 intimately for hardware acceleration of on-the-fly video processing, I'm skeptical that it will function without any Nvidia driver, but I'll give it a whirl (skeptically). The larger point is that I'm stunned Windows 8 is incompatible with my GTX 285 using any drivers since 1/2 year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using a dvi cable for connection? Does the 285 have dual dvi outs? If yes to both, make sure you are using the dvi-out closest to the mobo, or the lower dvi port. A long shot, but worth a try.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion, but that can't be it; I've got monitors connected to both of them, and neither are firing up. I don't even get the Windows 8 login jingle that takes me to the password prompt. Everything just hangs after passing BIOS. And this happens only after a mid-2012 dated Nvidia driver update. No problem before that -- except how Adobe CS6 crashes constantly without the newest Nvidia driver. Catch-22, and I'm lost!


----------



## Scott1541

Hi everyone









Got my Z77X-D3H this morning and it's been great so far, It's a revision 1.1 board with the 8 pin CPU power connector rather than just 4 pin. The 3D BIOS/UEFI is a little confusing as I've only ever used the good old BIOS before, there's just so many options and menus, no doubt I'll get used to it though.


----------



## xutnubu

Hey, guys. I decided to try the "Easy way to OC", just set the multiplier and let the system do the rest.

So I set it to 43 (4.3GHz) -The Turbo Multiplier, not the main- and I ran Prime95, volts at load = 1.128v, max temp 71C.

Playing PS2 it got up to 58C but stayed in mid 50s most of the time. In BF3 it reached 60C, and while recording with MSI AB 64C.

What do you think about this temps and volts? It looks good to me, but I'm not sure. I'd rather just stay with this OC and don't have to touch anything else but the multiplier.

I also tried the same method using 44 multiplier 4.4GHz, and volts got to 1.320v!!! Too much for those clocks.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> OK, so my UD5H, still running F6 BIOS I believe (never had an issue, never updated) is now experiencing a weird issue, but I can replicate it consistently and make it stop happening just as consistently. My brother had issues with 2 of his hard drives, Samsung Spinpoint F1 500GB drives. I installed them in my computer to do some trouble shooting. I can't even get the computer to go into Windows 8 with them installed. Failing to load windows, it automatically trying to fix my installation, etc etc etc.
> 
> Figure wow, my brother destroyed these things, what the hell did he do. I call seagate, RMA the drives, get brand new ones back in last night. I gave them overnight to warm up (they were sitting out on my porch when I got home). Install them this morning. I go into BIOS, change from AHCI to RAID, launch the Intel RAID utility with CTRL + I, set up the array. Go to start the system up, and SAME EXACT THING!
> 
> I disable the hard drives ports in BIOS, won't start. Disable the array, won't start. Unplug the SATA cables from the ports? starts up perfectly.
> 
> Seems to me the issue is perhaps the SATA cables putting a bit of pressure on the corner of the motherboard and causing a connectivity issue with something? I really want to install a 5th and 6th hard drive in this machine. It's the PC in the sig...
> 
> Hard drives are as follows:
> 
> SATA 0: M4 128gb SSD
> SATA 1: WD 500GB Caviar Black
> SATA 2: ASUS 24x DVD-RW
> SATA 3: 320GB Seagate Linux drive
> SATA 4: Spinpoint F1 500gb (both currently unplugged so the system will boot)
> SATA 5: Spinpoint F1 500gb (both currently unplugged so the system will boot)
> 
> I'm thinking of searching around for new SATA cables, maybe they're causing it? Perhaps ones without the metal clip (SATA3 standard) as it might put a bit less bending pressure? I think I have some cables in a box somewhere that have no clip that should fit in a bit looser than these do.


May be related, maybe not, but I have one drive that doesn't always show up on boot. When it doesn't it get stuck at the Windows screen. I can shut it off, wiggle the SATA data cable and next boot it shows up in the bios. I need to try a new cable but been too lazy, and it's only an occasional thing.
Another thing I see is the BBS priorities having the same effect. If I don't leave the Marvell ports last in the BBS priorities I will get stuck on boot. I have 7 drives connected including the DVD.


----------



## Sin0822

BBS priorities change after you change the SATA mode between IDE, AHCI and RAID, you have to basically set your SATA mode, then reboot and then set your priorities. Also if fast-boot is enabled, then try disabling it.

Also you don't have to type in normal to get offset, when you enter the voltage menu and it says auto under vcore, just press - or + i forget which, or pageup/pagedown and normal is right under auto.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> BBS priorities change after you change the SATA mode between IDE, AHCI and RAID, you have to basically set your SATA mode, then reboot and then set your priorities. Also if fast-boot is enabled, then try disabling it.
> 
> Also you don't have to type in normal to get offset, when you enter the voltage menu and it says auto under vcore, just press - or + i forget which, or pageup/pagedown and normal is right under auto.


I don't have fast boot, my BIOS is way before Windows 8 compatability...

Think it might be time for me to update? lol


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Think it might be time for me to update? lol


You should always be running on the latest BIOS, even if you don't notice it right away it often fixes some quirks and add parameters, always beneficial.

Plus updating from Gigabyte @BIOS takes like 20s.


----------



## Scott1541

I could do with updating my BIOS, I'm currently running F14 so I could upgrade to either F16 or F17f


----------



## $ilent

Good evening fellow z77x owners!

Aside from disabling power save features (c1e, c3/c6, EIST), and changing cpu milti, cpu vcore and LLC, is there any other settings that need to be changed for high overclock?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Good evening fellow z77x owners!
> 
> Aside from disabling power save features (c1e, c3/c6, EIST), and changing cpu milti, cpu vcore and LLC, is there any other settings that need to be changed for high overclock?


Make sure to check the Ivy Bridge Overclocking Guide. He uses the G1 Assassin so the BIOS should be pretty much the same.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Think it might be time for me to update? lol
> 
> 
> 
> You should always be running on the latest BIOS, even if you don't notice it right away it often fixes some quirks and add parameters, always beneficial.
> 
> Plus updating from Gigabyte @BIOS takes like 20s.
Click to expand...

While that may be true, I've always been a firm believer in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!". This computer has ran rock solid since May, no need to fudge around with it... now however I'm getting some strange issues.

I'll switch the SATA cables first, and see if that doesn't clear the issue. Once again, this system has worked phenomenal on the older BIOS. Rock solid OC, no problems until the installion of a 5th and 6th hard drive.


----------



## Sin0822

yea if it ain't broke then don't fix it, but you might want to update.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> While that may be true, I've always been a firm believer in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!".


Why?

You will almost never see regressions if you don't touch Beta BIOSes. Even Betas (Gigabyte's at least can't speak about others) were very good to me.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> While that may be true, I've always been a firm believer in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!". This computer has ran rock solid since May, no need to fudge around with it... now however I'm getting some strange issues.
> 
> I'll switch the SATA cables first, and see if that doesn't clear the issue. Once again, this system has worked phenomenal on the older BIOS. Rock solid OC, no problems until the installion of a 5th and 6th hard drive.


I never had so many boot problems until I started adding drives. But like I say, in my case changing the Marvell ports to the bottom of the BBS priorities fixed mine. Took me a long time to figure this out and it's been consistent ever since.

The only beta bios issue I'm having is screen shots not working in F15q, which isn't a big deal although I would like to see it fixed in the next release.


----------



## binormalkilla

I've seen people report this problem with various (often misguided and coincidental) methods of fixing it, so I was wondering if anyone was able to nail down a definite cause for this problem. I'll just repost what I posted in the Gigabyte forums on a thread someone else started.
The basic problem is that POST hangs on debug code 62, then stays on a blinking underscore cursor, and after around 1 minute boots the hard drive with Windows. I say this because I normally have another drive that contains the bootloader for Linux, where I normally select either Linux or Windows to boot.

Anyways, here's the info from the Gigabyte forums.
http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,9253.0.html
Quote:


> I'm getting the same problem with both BIOS versions F14 and F15q with a 7950. I get a POST debug code 62, which is Initialize PCH runtime services. I see a blinking cursor, and if I wait long enough it will boot Windows (strangely skipping the hard drive that contains GRUB with Linux, where I normally select either Linux or Windows). I have the PEG init option set to auto, however I will test by changing it before installing the card to see if that affects behavior. I can't even enter the BIOS with a PCI-E VGA installed, it just boots after hanging at the blinking cursor.
> 
> I've also tried the x8 slot with the same results.
> 
> After this the card works in 3d applications. I've already RMAd the card once because I thought this was the problem. System specs:
> 
> i5 3570K
> Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H
> Silverstone DA850 850W power supply
> 16 GB Corsair Dominator DDR3-1666


Other than this the board works well with integrated graphics.....

Also I guess I should try removing some hard drives to test as well. I have 2 mechanical drives, 1 SSD, and 1 PCI-E SSD. I think I tried removing the PCI-E SSD already, but I can't remember since it was late last night.

EDIT:

I tried playing around with fast boot settings (UEFI vs default, which uses legacy VGA drivers), disconnecting all of my hard drives, removing my PCI-E SSD, with no luck. I was able to enter the BIOS and flashing other BIOSes by hitting Delete or end, respectively, while the underscore flashes. Right before I enter the BIOS or boot I finally noticed a large font, barely readable message that says something like 'no devices available, press *some key* to configure RAID' or something to that nature. This leads me to believe that POST is waiting on some sort of RAID device enumeration before finishing. I guess that will be my next place to look for pertaining BIOS settings.

If anyone has any bright ideas let me know. As of know I have a fully functionaly system, though it takes a little less than 2 full minutes to POST









Also if anyone has a flow chart on the POST process of this board (or chipset) that would be great for troubleshooting....not sure what is being checked in POST after code 62. If it simply increments the hex value the next is 63 - CPU DXE Initialization Started according to the manual.

ANOTHER EDIT:

I tried playing with the CSM settings. I disabled CSM, tried setting things to legacy instead of UEFI, no luck. Disabling CSM actually caused POST to hang on E6 (IIRC). I tried disabling PCH Network Controller (Intel one). I didn't tried disabling the Marvell one yet, so I'll give that a shot when I feel like wasting more time on this.


----------



## DeXel

Disable RAID if you enabled it by mistake. Or just load optimized defaults/clear CMOS because default mode on UD5H is AHCI.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Disable RAID if you enabled it by mistake. Or just load optimized defaults/clear CMOS because default mode on UD5H is AHCI.


I've already cleared CMOS and flashed different BIOSes several times.....also never touched ACHI/IDE/RAID settings.


----------



## DeXel

Well, there is a fluke somewhere. Did you try to boot with minimum number of devices connected? My post takes under 5 seconds.

Any USB devices connected like Bluetooth or WiFi sticks?


----------



## lngu81

I'm having a problem with Ud5h rev. 1.1 bios 14, I tried to manually tighten my memory to 9-11-11-28 in Bios, but cpu-z still showing 10-13-13-36.

XMP profile is already disabled, this is driving me nut! could you please help?


----------



## DeXel

Did you get boot cycle? If you did, the settings were unstable and they got reseted to defaults.


----------



## lngu81

no boot cycle at all, that's why i'm puzzling why the setting is not stick
it boots straight into windows 8, CPUID shows different settings

Edit: is there some setting on board that i may ovelook, which prevent lower CAS and latency change?

As you can see below, even when i activate xmp profile or manually change the values, my cas and latency stay the same. the values won't change?



Edit2: Even I reset bios to default, which means memory should run on lowest setting (1333), CPUID still show memory is running at the same setting as in picture


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Well, there is a fluke somewhere. Did you try to boot with minimum number of devices connected? My post takes under 5 seconds.
> 
> Any USB devices connected like Bluetooth or WiFi sticks?


Literally nothing connected to the motherboard but the memory, CPU, and graphics card. Still happens.


----------



## DeXel

Double post


----------



## DeXel

Try without GPU. Use iGPU.

Maybe you have a bad BIOS flash, but I see you tried to update it already. Maybe flipping BIOS switch will do something...

What else? Try to disable anything extra in BIOS like Firewire, Marvell ports, and etc.

Otherwise, I think you board is defective in some way.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Well, there is a fluke somewhere. Did you try to boot with minimum number of devices connected? My post takes under 5 seconds.
> 
> Any USB devices connected like Bluetooth or WiFi sticks?


your saying you go from pressing power on button to windows in 5 seconds?


----------



## DeXel

Nope. Post passes in 5 seconds (in other words, I hear beep). Then it takes another 10 seconds to load Windows from my SSD.


----------



## $ilent

ah yeah was gonna say im probs about same. my old asrock board was in windows in under 10 second from pressing button that was quick


----------



## lngu81

turned out i had a bad bios, reflashed and the timing is running correctly now.
Even with a bad bios, everything was running fine, therefore I couldn't figure out the bug. It was weird but I'm happy it's fixed.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lngu81*
> 
> turned out i had a bad bios, reflashed and the timing is running correctly now.
> Even with a bad bios, everything was running fine, therefore I couldn't figure out the bug. It was weird but I'm happy it's fixed.


How did you figure it out? Did you just reflash without knowing for sure or were you able to pinpoint the issue first?


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> How did you figure it out? Did you just reflash without knowing for sure or were you able to pinpoint the issue first?


I couldn't pinpoint it, tried all options and last resort was to reflash...I'm trying to replicate the issue again by playing with the timing, I still have my doubt that it was a corrupted bios.


----------



## mandrix

I've had the bios get corrupted before, at least that's the only explanation I come up with when I can do a cmos clear and the problem goes away.

When I see this it's usually when I'm playing with overclocks, and the bios will get stuck at 4.5 regardless of where I set the multi. Clear cmos, then when it boots it asks to load optimized defaults and then reboots and I have control of the bios again.

A few rare times since I bought the boards last April I've had to reflash a bios because it was unresponsive.


----------



## DeXel

Did you try to use backup BIOS as primary? Or don't want to take the chance?


----------



## binormalkilla

Well I 'fixed' my problem with the 1 minute post using a VGA in the PCI-E slots(s). As I suspected initially, the culprit was the combination of 3 things:
PCI-E OCZ Revodrive in the bottom PCI-E slot
VGA in the top 16x slot
Init display first BIOS setting reverting after setting it in the BIOS, saving, and restarting.

It looks like that setting simply does not work for some reason. When the BIOS detects a VGA in the PCI-E slot it begins checking all PCI-E slots, and hangs on the SSD. Apparently it is timing out after a minute or so, then finishing POST. The SSD is completely fine in the same slot when there is no VGA installed. I cleared the CMOS with the PSU switch off, switched to the second BIOS, repeated, switched back to the first, then I moved the SSD to the middle PCI-E slot and it could POST. I checked the 'Init display first' option after trying to set it again on a successful, normal POST and it reverted back to 'normal'. So now I can POST in a normal amount of time.

Hopefully if I give this information they can test this to confirm and possibly fix this on future release.


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys random question here. On this page. there are 6 Intel MEI drivers. Does he sort the drivers by date? Which one should I download? There are ones with firmware + ROM and others with just "drivers". The newest one looks like Driver 8.1.30.1349. Should I use the one with firmware?

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html

Why does stasio have newer drivers than what's on Intel's website? INF on Intel only goes up to "Intel® INF Driver 9.3.0.1026" while stasio has "Intel® INF Driver 9.4.0.1014". Should I download his drivers or the one off of Intel?

Thanks.


----------



## stasio

^Same as GB BIOS,
not every release Intel posting on official page.
So MEI driver 8.1.30.1349. is the latest (yea,is sorted by date) .


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> ^Same as GB BIOS,
> not every release Intel posting on official page.
> So MEI driver 8.1.30.1349. is the latest (yea,is sorted by date) .


Thanks stasio


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Did you try to use backup BIOS as primary? Or don't want to take the chance?


Yeah, I've done that as well. When benching I've flipped the switch and left it that way for weeks before I think about it.
Seems that sometimes there is more stability when running the same bios version on both, other times makes no difference. :shrug:

Sometimes I've switched bios then just copied one to the other on bootup.


----------



## lngu81

I have 2x 6950 CF running on UD5H, GPU-Z said that my cards are running @ 4x, 8x. Shouldn't it be running 8x, 8x?


----------



## DeXel

Slots 1 and 2? Don't believe GPU-Z. Or run some stress test and see if number changes as GPU-Z recommends.


----------



## rattlerskin

Anyone have issues running 2x4gb g.skill sniper modules in the z77x-up5-th? I just set up my new system and had issues installing windows, so throughout the troubleshooting process I disabled XMP, changed DDR voltage to 1.3v and set the profile to normal rather than turbo. Windows installed fine, but I can't get MemTest 86+ to run; it locks up and freezes at a black screen. Don't know if this is a RAM issue or something else, as I struggled just to get windows installed but succeeded after changing the RAM settings.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rattlerskin*
> 
> Anyone have issues running 2x4gb g.skill sniper modules in the z77x-up5-th? I just set up my new system and had issues installing windows, so throughout the troubleshooting process I disabled XMP, changed DDR voltage to 1.3v and set the profile to normal rather than turbo. Windows installed fine, but I can't get MemTest 86+ to run; it locks up and freezes at a black screen. Don't know if this is a RAM issue or something else, as I struggled just to get windows installed but succeeded after changing the RAM settings.


Try here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1285652/official-z77x-up5-up4-d3h-th-owners-club-discussion-and-info-thread


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Slots 1 and 2? Don't believe GPU-Z. Or run some stress test and see if number changes as GPU-Z recommends.


I did furmark testing on CF setting, the values stay the same at 4x (PCIe 1) and 8x (PCIe 2)


----------



## rattlerskin

Anyone else get an error when installing the VGA drivers that a required component was not found? I tried installing the drivers (both versions on the gigabyte website) and they just wont install.


----------



## DeXel

Enable iGPU in BIOS, or don't if you don't plan to use it, and don't install that driver.


----------



## nexgenasian

Hi all, got some questions about OCing an I7 3770k with a z77x ud3h rev 1.1.

I've found my system stable at 4.6ghz no turbos @ 1.25v. maxing out around 78c on any/all cores using real temp running intel burn in test

Now I'm trying to use dynamic voltage for vcore (dvid) and having a hard time with it.

I'd like to turbo with it when 2 cores are active to 4.6ghz, when 3 or more drop down to 4.5ghz
I set in bios vcore LLC to medium and vcore voltage to normal ( 1.255v next to the word normal ) and the dvid to 0.000v that should be vcore of 1.255v right? I would expect that the cpu would use less then 1.255v when not fully active but would request that from the mobo when necessary so it would still be above the 1.25v that is stable in the non dynamic oc I did first.

Just to make it into to windows I always need at least dvid of +0.03v.
This then shoots me up to 1.285v when running IBT or prime 95.

Is there anything I can do so the vcore doesn't shoot up to 1.285v, by then it's pretty toasty at 88c even at only 4.5ghz, but still boot?

I also tried messing the the vcore voltage response and have set it to fast.... but hasn't seem to make a difference really..


----------



## mandrix

You will just have to adjust both offset and LLC until you find a happy medium. If you can't find any settings you're happy with I guess you'll have to stick with straight vcore.
Could try lowering LLC to low and see where that brings you. 1.285v ain't bad.....


----------



## rattlerskin

Can someone direct me to where I would find the stock settings for this board with a 3770k and 1600 MHz RAM? I just set up my system and i'm rather puzzled by this motherboard and BIOS, as I am coming from an i7 920 on an x58 mobo. I feel like i'm missing settings here, since the only thing I changed were my RAM timings and voltage but my CPU still consistently runs at the turbo speed of 3.9. I want to get stable stock settings so I can get everything up and running first, then do some basic benchmarks before beginning overclocking but I cant seem to figure out if i'm missing anything here.


----------



## DeXel

That's Turbo Boost. It is by Intel specs, but you can disable it if you really want to. It's in advanced CPU core features.


----------



## xutnubu

Can anyone tell me if "Kernel-EventTracing" Errors are related to CPU overclock?


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nexgenasian*
> 
> Hi all, got some questions about OCing an I7 3770k with a z77x ud3h rev 1.1.
> 
> I've found my system stable at 4.6ghz no turbos @ 1.25v. maxing out around 78c on any/all cores using real temp running intel burn in test
> 
> Now I'm trying to use dynamic voltage for vcore (dvid) and having a hard time with it.
> 
> I'd like to turbo with it when 2 cores are active to 4.6ghz, when 3 or more drop down to 4.5ghz
> I set in bios vcore LLC to medium and vcore voltage to normal ( 1.255v next to the word normal ) and the dvid to 0.000v that should be vcore of 1.255v right? I would expect that the cpu would use less then 1.255v when not fully active but would request that from the mobo when necessary so it would still be above the 1.25v that is stable in the non dynamic oc I did first.
> 
> Just to make it into to windows I always need at least dvid of +0.03v.
> This then shoots me up to 1.285v when running IBT or prime 95.
> 
> Is there anything I can do so the vcore doesn't shoot up to 1.285v, by then it's pretty toasty at 88c even at only 4.5ghz, but still boot?
> 
> I also tried messing the the vcore voltage response and have set it to fast.... but hasn't seem to make a difference really..


To get dvid, you need Vcore-Vid= Dvid,
download Core temp, it will give you a Vid value (make sure you collect the value while stress test)
go to Bios, set Vcore as normal, adjust Dvid base on the formula above, it could be -ve or +ve value
adjust Vcore LLC to turbo, enable intel turbo, enable your power saving options. I usually don't enable C3&C6, but it's up to you.


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rattlerskin*
> 
> Can someone direct me to where I would find the stock settings for this board with a 3770k and 1600 MHz RAM? I just set up my system and i'm rather puzzled by this motherboard and BIOS, as I am coming from an i7 920 on an x58 mobo. I feel like i'm missing settings here, since the only thing I changed were my RAM timings and voltage but my CPU still consistently runs at the turbo speed of 3.9. I want to get stable stock settings so I can get everything up and running first, then do some basic benchmarks before beginning overclocking but I cant seem to figure out if i'm missing anything here.


READ THiS
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## m0nkman

I cannot get my Z77X-UD3H to boot with 16GB (4 x 4GB), QVL DIMMs Corsair CML16GX3M4X1600C8. I can only get 8GB working with any of them. I have tried different BIOS versions and read around on forums. I opened an RMA with Gigabyte, but I am losing faith after tweaking around with this since purchase. The kicker is my friend upgraded recently and my DIMMs boot fine in his ASUS ROG z77 Maximus natively - all 4 @ 1600. any tips or had similar problems?


----------



## DeXel

Did you test each motherboard DIMM individually to make sure that they work?


----------



## m0nkman

memtest 86 passes with any two sticks. Drop all 4 DIMMs in - no post. Is there some settings you must tweak to get 4 DIMMs going at the same time?


----------



## DeXel

Memtest has nothing to do with motherboard's DIMMs not working. I asked you to test each slot individually to figure out if they work at all or not.

If they work, you'll need to increase IMC/VTT voltage and maybe RAM voltage.

Is it Ivy Bridge or Sandy Bridge?


----------



## m0nkman

mobo slots good Channel A (slots 2 and 4) or Channel B (slots 1 and 3) post with any combo of the 4 sticks.

I've got Ivy i3570k -

I have tried to disabled XMP setting and manually setting to 1600 DRAM; Voltage was recommended to 1.55-1.575v's range? no dice yet

can you throw me a bone on the IMC/VTT settings related to Gigabyte's boards. I think I'm doing it right but still stuck on (2 x 4gb) 8GB.


----------



## DeXel

Try VTT 1.1 and IMC 1.095. Try to loosen timing, and frequency too. For now you need to get it to post.


----------



## m0nkman

I can post now but windows locks up during login. Any more settings you can think of? How did you get a screen shot of the bios?


----------



## DeXel

Hmm... can you load memtest? Does it pass it?

Increase RAM voltage a bit. Like 0.005v to 0.01v

To make a screenshot you'll need a flash drive that's FAT32 formated, and just press F12 in BIOS.


----------



## m0nkman

No luck getting windows to boot into the desktop with QUAD KIT installed. Here are my current settings. Don't want to push the RAM voltage any higher.

I try to boot into memtest - I suppose with these settings, but I don't know what that would prove.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> OK, so my UD5H, still running F6 BIOS I believe (never had an issue, never updated) is now experiencing a weird issue, but I can replicate it consistently and make it stop happening just as consistently. My brother had issues with 2 of his hard drives, Samsung Spinpoint F1 500GB drives. I installed them in my computer to do some trouble shooting. I can't even get the computer to go into Windows 8 with them installed. Failing to load windows, it automatically trying to fix my installation, etc etc etc.
> 
> Figure wow, my brother destroyed these things, what the hell did he do. I call seagate, RMA the drives, get brand new ones back in last night. I gave them overnight to warm up (they were sitting out on my porch when I got home). Install them this morning. I go into BIOS, change from AHCI to RAID, launch the Intel RAID utility with CTRL + I, set up the array. Go to start the system up, and SAME EXACT THING!
> 
> I disable the hard drives ports in BIOS, won't start. Disable the array, won't start. Unplug the SATA cables from the ports? starts up perfectly.
> 
> Seems to me the issue is perhaps the SATA cables putting a bit of pressure on the corner of the motherboard and causing a connectivity issue with something? I really want to install a 5th and 6th hard drive in this machine. It's the PC in the sig...
> 
> Hard drives are as follows:
> 
> SATA 0: M4 128gb SSD
> SATA 1: WD 500GB Caviar Black
> SATA 2: ASUS 24x DVD-RW
> SATA 3: 320GB Seagate Linux drive
> SATA 4: Spinpoint F1 500gb (both currently unplugged so the system will boot)
> SATA 5: Spinpoint F1 500gb (both currently unplugged so the system will boot)
> 
> I'm thinking of searching around for new SATA cables, maybe they're causing it? Perhaps ones without the metal clip (SATA3 standard) as it might put a bit less bending pressure? I think I have some cables in a box somewhere that have no clip that should fit in a bit looser than these do.


OK, so continuation of this story. It's still not resolved. With the hard drive configuration as you see above, the system will not start. I changed the SATA cables, just in case one of them was bad, no luck. Checked all connections, everything is fine. BIOS detects the hard drives no problem, but it goes to load windows and the circle just spins and then it tells me that something went wrong and I need to restore. I click cancel, restart, it does the same thing again. I moved both hard drives to the marvell ports. BIOS finds both hard drives without issue. I configure the Marvell ports to RAID. Enter Marvell RAID BIOS, configure the array. Windows starts without issue. Get in Windows, install the marvell storage utility from Gigabyte's web page, restart. It finds the array without issue in the Storage Utility, but the array doesn't show up in Computer. Try deleting the array and recreating, same thing. Can't actually reach the hard drives through Computer. No way to access them.

I've updated my BIOS to F14, swapped cables, moved ports, configured and reconfigured, and I still can't get this computer to work with the two drives installed.

What the hell can I do at this point? I'm going nuts with this thing lol


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m0nkman*
> 
> No luck getting windows to boot into the desktop with QUAD KIT installed. Here are my current settings. Don't want to push the RAM voltage any higher.
> 
> I try to boot into memtest - I suppose with these settings, but I don't know what that would prove.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well, obviously your board doesn't like RAM. Weird part is that they are in memory support list according to you. Send few email back and forward with Gigabyte, but I think you'll end up with different board or RAM. Asus boards have better T-topology that Gigabyte's UD3H and UD5H. Gigabyte improved it on UP boards, and UD4H and HD4 have the best from what I've heard. UD4H even holds world record for Z77 on maximum RAM clock. Thats a possible explanation on why your RAM worked on MVF, but didn't on UD3H.

DaClownie, you can't just switch AHCI to RAID and expect Windows to boot. Search for "AHCI to RAID on Windows," or "IDE to RAID on Windows" for more info.

Also did you check BBS priorities to make sure that boot drive is the first?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *m0nkman*
> 
> No luck getting windows to boot into the desktop with QUAD KIT installed. Here are my current settings. Don't want to push the RAM voltage any higher.
> 
> I try to boot into memtest - I suppose with these settings, but I don't know what that would prove.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, obviously your board doesn't like RAM. Weird part is that they are in memory support list according to you. Send few email back and forward with Gigabyte, but I think you'll end up with different board or RAM. Asus boards have better T-topology that Gigabyte's UD3H and UD5H. Gigabyte improved it on UP boards, and UD4H and HD4 have the best from what I've heard. UD4H even holds world record for Z77 on maximum RAM clock. Thats a possible explanation on why your RAM worked on MVF, but didn't on UD3H.
> 
> DaClownie, you can't just switch AHCI to RAID and expect Windows to boot. Search for "AHCI to RAID on Windows," or "IDE to RAID on Windows" for more info.
> 
> Also did you check BBS priorities to make sure that boot drive is the first?
Click to expand...

Yea, checked all the BBS priorities etc. On my previous set up I had simply turned on RAID and it worked, but I can see that it might be an issue. However, by enabling RAID on the Marvell controller (which was previously unused), installing these drives, setting up the array, and installing the Marvell Utilities/driver for windows, I should have had no issue. It booted into Windows, but Windows wouldn't show the array no matter what I did. It appeared in the utilities. The utilities found it just fine, but Windows and Computer would not.

Maybe I'm due for a reformat... I have been running this installation for a while, and I'd love to clean up some of these installations of applications that Windows 8 won't let uninstall (horribly annoying bug, btw)


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea, checked all the BBS priorities etc. On my previous set up I had simply turned on RAID and it worked, but I can see that it might be an issue. However, by enabling RAID on the Marvell controller (which was previously unused), installing these drives, setting up the array, and installing the Marvell Utilities/driver for windows, I should have had no issue. It booted into Windows, but Windows wouldn't show the array no matter what I did. It appeared in the utilities. The utilities found it just fine, but Windows and Computer would not.
> 
> Maybe I'm due for a reformat... I have been running this installation for a while, and I'd love to clean up some of these installations of applications that Windows 8 won't let uninstall (horribly annoying bug, btw)


You know what you do, contact NoG for a RAID card


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea, checked all the BBS priorities etc. On my previous set up I had simply turned on RAID and it worked, but I can see that it might be an issue. However, by enabling RAID on the Marvell controller (which was previously unused), installing these drives, setting up the array, and installing the Marvell Utilities/driver for windows, I should have had no issue. It booted into Windows, but Windows wouldn't show the array no matter what I did. It appeared in the utilities. The utilities found it just fine, but Windows and Computer would not.
> 
> Maybe I'm due for a reformat... I have been running this installation for a while, and I'd love to clean up some of these installations of applications that Windows 8 won't let uninstall (horribly annoying bug, btw)
> 
> 
> 
> You know what you do, contact NoG for a RAID card
Click to expand...

A raid card? rather than the onboard motherboard variety? you have those lying about?


----------



## mandrix

@DaClownie
Are the Marvell utilities/drivers required for RAID on the Marvell ports?
I've never run RAID on those ports, just on the Intel ports. Never loaded any Marvell drivers, although I do have those ports populated.
As far as non-RAID use mine work fine as long as I leave them at the end of the BBS priority.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> @DaClownie
> Are the Marvell utilities/drivers required for RAID on the Marvell ports?
> I've never run RAID on those ports, just on the Intel ports. Never loaded any Marvell drivers, although I do have those ports populated.
> As far as non-RAID use mine work fine as long as I leave them at the end of the BBS priority.


I'm not sure that it's required, but when I got into windows and noticed the array I had built in the Marvell utility was not showing in Computer, I figured I'd install their utility. The utility found the array, but it wouldn't show in Windows still. I think I'm just going to go the reformat route. Like I stated before, Windows 8 is becoming a bit cluttered due to the applications that are not uninstalling due to compatibility. Time to clean up.

Reformatted. I now have a Raid 0 array in Windows. That solution was much easier than all the ridiculous battling I've done over the last few days.


----------



## rageofthepeon

Hey guys, I'm thinking about getting another 7970 but I have a bit of a conundrum and was hoping for some help.

I have a reference Sapphire 7970 and replaced the cooler with an Accelero Xtreme aftermarket cooler. This effectively makes my card a 3 slot monster with insane cooling/noise level barring water cooling. My problem is that if I added another card to the second PCIE3.0 slot it would sit flush against my old card and it would be sucking up all that heat and recycling it and making it, obviously, hotter than it should be.

My question is, for anyone who can answer, if I drop my old 7970 like so will it block off the bottom row of connectors?



I'd like to think have that extra slot between cards would allow for better temperatures rather than ramming them right next to each other. Especially since neither would be reference cards. Obviously I can check a bit more thoroughly when I get home but was hoping someone else might have some prior experience or expertise to share on the matter







.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rageofthepeon*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm thinking about getting another 7970 but I have a bit of a conundrum and was hoping for some help.
> 
> I have a reference Sapphire 7970 and replaced the cooler with an Accelero Xtreme aftermarket cooler. This effectively makes my card a 3 slot monster with insane cooling/noise level barring water cooling. My problem is that if I added another card to the second PCIE3.0 slot it would sit flush against my old card and it would be sucking up all that heat and recycling it and making it, obviously, hotter than it should be.
> 
> My question is, for anyone who can answer, if I drop my old 7970 like so will it block off the bottom row of connectors?
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to think have that extra slot between cards would allow for better temperatures rather than ramming them right next to each other. Especially since neither would be reference cards. Obviously I can check a bit more thoroughly when I get home but was hoping someone else might have some prior experience or expertise to share on the matter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I don't think it would completely block the connectors, just make them harder to get too. I'd pug in the connectors first, then drop in the 2nd graphics card. Purely speculation on my part.


----------



## almighty15

Got a Z77-UD5H under phase 24/7..



Absolutely rock solid when running under the cold, had zero issues with it.


----------



## rageofthepeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I don't think it would completely block the connectors, just make them harder to get too. I'd pug in the connectors first, then drop in the 2nd graphics card. Purely speculation on my part.


During my lunch break I dropped the GPU to the second slot and the connectors were fine. The Accelero Xtreme fan has a gap between the heatsink/fans and the motherboard, thank goodness







. Now I just need to decide which 7970 to get.


----------



## sixor

hi guys, some help please

z77x ud3h here, f18

so i wanted to format my pc with win 8 and put in with gpt partition, in order to put gpt you need to boot the dvd uefi

but i have no uefi options at all for boot

everything is default, but oc stuff

maybe f18 has a bug or changed menus, added features, but i remember in older bios i always had uefi boot options for every one of my units

also i feel my boot is too slow, i know raid 0 add a little time, but still mobo takes too much from start to load windows, like 8 sec, 10 secs, very annoying

my asus laptop with ssd takes much less time to boot, with a crap pentium b980 vs my 3570k


----------



## 8bitG33k

The PWM control for systems fans in the BIOS, does it only work with PWM fans or will it control 3pin fans as well?

I plugged a 4pin PWM fan into the System Fan 2 header and set PWm slope to 0.75/ C and it spins steadily at 914RPM. It spins at the same speed when I set it to 2.5/ C.

Which temperature does it operate off of, CPU temp?


----------



## Skullwipe

Hey guys, so I'm having a small issue and have run out of troubleshooting ideas. I'm running a Z77x-UD5h with an i5-3570k, and I've been getting periodic BSOD's at unpredictable intervals, and have been unable to get them to repeat based on either load conditions or the programs running. Currently I'm running a fresh install of Windows 7 X64 Professional using the latest drivers from Gigabytes website, running with the XMP profile and optimized defaults in the BIOS for every other setting.

GA-Z77x-UD5H
i5-3570k
Seasonic 860w Platinum PSU
EVGA GTX 480
Corsair Neutron GTX 240gb (boot)
WD Caviar Black 1TB (Data)
Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 Ram

I've been getting Stop Codes 1a and C2 which both imply a memory related issue, but I've run Memtest from Hiren's boot CD on each dimm in all four sockets for 7 passes with no errors. This has been happening since I built the system about 9 months ago, and the only hardware change has been moving from a mechanical HDD to an SSD. So I'm wondering if this may be a voltage regulation issue with my motherboard, or an issue with the CPU memory controller. I've already gotten the okay from Intel to RMA the CPU, but I'd hate to do that unless I know with reasonable certainty that that's the source of the problem.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or help.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I'm not sure that it's required, but when I got into windows and noticed the array I had built in the Marvell utility was not showing in Computer, I figured I'd install their utility. The utility found the array, but it wouldn't show in Windows still. I think I'm just going to go the reformat route. Like I stated before, Windows 8 is becoming a bit cluttered due to the applications that are not uninstalling due to compatibility. Time to clean up.
> 
> Reformatted. I now have a Raid 0 array in Windows. That solution was much easier than all the ridiculous battling I've done over the last few days.


Yeah, sometimes that's the best route to go.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rageofthepeon*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm thinking about getting another 7970 but I have a bit of a conundrum and was hoping for some help.
> 
> I have a reference Sapphire 7970 and replaced the cooler with an Accelero Xtreme aftermarket cooler. This effectively makes my card a 3 slot monster with insane cooling/noise level barring water cooling. My problem is that if I added another card to the second PCIE3.0 slot it would sit flush against my old card and it would be sucking up all that heat and recycling it and making it, obviously, hotter than it should be.
> 
> My question is, for anyone who can answer, if I drop my old 7970 like so will it block off the bottom row of connectors?
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to think have that extra slot between cards would allow for better temperatures rather than ramming them right next to each other. Especially since neither would be reference cards. Obviously I can check a bit more thoroughly when I get home but was hoping someone else might have some prior experience or expertise to share on the matter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've had two water cooled cards in one of my UD5H boards where I borked the top slot and ended up having to use the bottom slot. I could get to all the motherboard connectors, just barely.







That was with 2x7950's with EK full water blocks.
(I eventually got the borked pci-e slot fixed and went back to the normal configuration)


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Got a Z77-UD5H under phase 24/7..
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely rock solid when running under the cold, had zero issues with it.


Really awesome, i miss phase.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Hey guys, so I'm having a small issue and have run out of troubleshooting ideas. I'm running a Z77x-UD5h with an i5-3570k, and I've been getting periodic BSOD's at unpredictable intervals, and have been unable to get them to repeat based on either load conditions or the programs running. Currently I'm running a fresh install of Windows 7 X64 Professional using the latest drivers from Gigabytes website, running with the XMP profile and optimized defaults in the BIOS for every other setting.
> 
> GA-Z77x-UD5H
> i5-3570k
> Seasonic 860w Platinum PSU
> EVGA GTX 480
> Corsair Neutron GTX 240gb (boot)
> WD Caviar Black 1TB (Data)
> Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 Ram
> 
> I've been getting Stop Codes 1a and C2 which both imply a memory related issue, but I've run Memtest from Hiren's boot CD on each dimm in all four sockets for 7 passes with no errors. This has been happening since I built the system about 9 months ago, and the only hardware change has been moving from a mechanical HDD to an SSD. So I'm wondering if this may be a voltage regulation issue with my motherboard, or an issue with the CPU memory controller. I've already gotten the okay from Intel to RMA the CPU, but I'd hate to do that unless I know with reasonable certainty that that's the source of the problem.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions or help.


Have you updated your UEFI?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> hi guys, some help please
> 
> z77x ud3h here, f18
> 
> so i wanted to format my pc with win 8 and put in with gpt partition, in order to put gpt you need to boot the dvd uefi
> 
> but i have no uefi options at all for boot
> 
> everything is default, but oc stuff
> 
> maybe f18 has a bug or changed menus, added features, but i remember in older bios i always had uefi boot options for every one of my units
> 
> also i feel my boot is too slow, i know raid 0 add a little time, but still mobo takes too much from start to load windows, like 8 sec, 10 secs, very annoying
> 
> my asus laptop with ssd takes much less time to boot, with a crap pentium b980 vs my 3570k


Have you tried one of the BETAs? The thing is that the setting has prob been moved.


----------



## Skullwipe

I'm on F7 at the moment, but this has been an issue since I first built this system around 8 months ago. Do you think upgrading to F14 would have an impact?


----------



## 8bitG33k

My keyboard quit working under Windows. It works fine in the BIOS though. All USB ports are working fine, just those the keyboard quit working. No matter which USB port I plug the keyboard into, it wont work. The backlit keys are on so it is receiving power but it wont type. Oddly enough, my Wireless Bluetooth keyboard works fine as do all other USB devices I have plugged in. It's only the keyboard that refused to work. I reset everything in BIOS back to stock but the keyboard is still not working.

I un- and reinstalled the Intel USB drivers, to no avail. I reset everything in BIOS (F19H) to stock (Auto).

HELP?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Really awesome, i miss phase.
> Have you updated your UEFI?
> Have you tried one of the BETAs? The thing is that the setting has prob been moved.


that worked, using latest beta

now the bios show the dvd uefi boot


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I'm on F7 at the moment, but this has been an issue since I first built this system around 8 months ago. Do you think upgrading to F14 would have an impact?


Newer BIOS rarely have regressions but minor improvements so you might better flash it and see. Always good to have a newer BIOS.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> My keyboard quit working under Windows. It works fine in the BIOS though. All USB ports are working fine, just those the keyboard quit working. No matter which USB port I plug the keyboard into, it wont work. The backlit keys are on so it is receiving power but it wont type. Oddly enough, my Wireless Bluetooth keyboard works fine as do all other USB devices I have plugged in. It's only the keyboard that refused to work. I reset everything in BIOS back to stock but the keyboard is still not working.
> 
> I un- and reinstalled the Intel USB drivers, to no avail. I reset everything in BIOS (F19H) to stock (Auto).
> 
> HELP?


Have you gone into Device Manager and removed all entries for that keyboard?



Under Keyboards simply delete the entries mentioning that keyboard or it's manufacturer, Windows will then rediscover the hardware.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Thanks for the response! I just tried as you suggested, then did a reboot, it didn't work though. The Logitech UI recognizes the keyboard and I can change the ligthing scheme via the UI, it just wont type.


----------



## Skullwipe

Next option is to try a restore point from a time when it was working, or if the keyboard is still in warranty get a replacement. Most of the troubleshooting is already done, if it was an issue with your motherboard or windows install the other keyboard shouldn't have functioned either.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Next option is to try a restore point from a time when it was working, or if the keyboard is still in warranty get a replacement. Most of the troubleshooting is already done, if it was an issue with your motherboard or windows install the other keyboard shouldn't have functioned either.


That was my thought too but then why does the keyboard work in the BIOS or on other computers? It's not until it boots into Windows that it quits working.
I did try all the other USB port and found one port where it does work in Windows. The keyboard will work only in this one port, none of the others. I do remember having my external USB hub plugged into that same port at one point and it quit working on me too, so I'm pretty sure it has something to do with Windows and/ or this one particular USB port. Then again, why would the keyboard work only in one of the USB and none of the others. Very weird.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Just tried reinstalling windows and the top two usb ports aren't recognizing keyboard nor mouse during installation. (the ones next to the PS2 ports)

EDIT: OK so I guess that part is normal during installation. Didn't remember that from my first install.


----------



## JrWhopper

i need some help http://www.overclock.net/t/1364125/gb-z77x-ud3h-oc-llc


----------



## 8bitG33k

After doing a bit more research I found that this is a known issue on this board and is a problem the VIA USB ports which can turn into a nightmare and are very finicky as to which devices are plugged into which ports. Also not sure why the GA manual specifically lists the two USB ports located by the PS2 port specifically as "Keyboard" as they will not work with until after driver installation, meaning they wont work during Windows installation. There even was a sticker on those ports to use these for kbm.

There's a thread on tweaktown about other people having issues as well as other threads on other forums. A Google search shows that many have the same problem.

On a side note, every time I try to install the latest Intel USB 3.0 drivers (2.0.0.100) I get an error message that my system does not meet the minimum system requirements. The ones from the Gigabyte website however work.

Hope this helps anyone running into the same issue.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> After doing a bit more research I found that this is a known issue on this board and is a problem the VIA USB ports which can turn into a nightmare and are very finicky as to which devices are plugged into which ports. Also not sure why the GA manual specifically lists the two USB ports located by the PS2 port specifically as "Keyboard" as they will not work with until after driver installation, meaning they wont work during Windows installation. There even was a sticker on those ports to use these for kbm.
> 
> There's a thread on tweaktown about other people having issues as well as other threads on other forums. A Google search shows that many have the same problem.
> 
> On a side note, every time I try to install the latest Intel USB 3.0 drivers (2.0.0.100) I get an error message that my system does not meet the minimum system requirements. The ones from the Gigabyte website however work.
> 
> Hope this helps anyone running into the same issue.


too many people had problems with usb, that combo of intel + via is a nightmare

many bios updates and drivers later, some issues still arises


----------



## Skullwipe

Turns out my UD5H is the same, I've always just used the top USB ports for the Keyboard and Mouse since the rest are USB 3. It's noted as a Windows 7 issue related to a lack of native USB 3 support. I really don't think it'd be that much of a cost increase to just stick with using Intel controllers, I always seem to have issues with the Marvell SATA and Atheros Ethernet controllers.

I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd be willing to pay an extra $20 for a board with nothing but intel controllers. It's a shame all I hear about the Intel branded boards are complaints about the UEFI, the BOXDZ77GA70K looks pretty nice.


----------



## Skullwipe

I updated to the F14 BIOS, and shortly after making my last post I had another BSOD with the stop code 3B. I had this same code before my recent clean install, and I'm willing to bed when I crack open the mini dump it will tell me it's caused by my Nvidia drivers (310.90), and ill most likely happen again even if I upgrade to the 314.07 drivers. Just want to mention again that this is a fresh install of Windows x64 Professional with the newest chipset drivers, no other hardware drivers beyond KB, mouse and GPU.

So here's where I stand, I've gotten RMA approval for the RAM and CPU, Intel seems to think it's the memory controller causing my C2 and 1A crashes, and Corsair thinks it's easier to just replace the RAM even if it checks out with Memtest. If I go ahead and do these RMA's and the problems continue, can I pretty much assume it's a motherboard issue? Unlike many of you here, I don't have another 1155 system to toss parts into for testing, so I'm left with replacing parts one at a time. Or is it possible there's another software issue I've neglected to troubleshoot?


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I updated to the F14 BIOS, and shortly after making my last post I had another BSOD with the stop code 3B. I had this same code before my recent clean install, and I'm willing to bed when I crack open the mini dump it will tell me it's caused by my Nvidia drivers (310.90), and ill most likely happen again even if I upgrade to the 314.07 drivers. Just want to mention again that this is a fresh install of Windows x64 Professional with the newest chipset drivers, no other hardware drivers beyond KB, mouse and GPU.
> 
> So here's where I stand, I've gotten RMA approval for the RAM and CPU, Intel seems to think it's the memory controller causing my C2 and 1A crashes, and Corsair thinks it's easier to just replace the RAM even if it checks out with Memtest. If I go ahead and do these RMA's and the problems continue, can I pretty much assume it's a motherboard issue? Unlike many of you here, I don't have another 1155 system to toss parts into for testing, so I'm left with replacing parts one at a time. Or is it possible there's another software issue I've neglected to troubleshoot?


This probably isn't directly helpful, and merely speculative, but there's a lot of trending disgust with Nvidia drivers lately and I'm one of the hardest hit. My GTX 285 basically stopped working, instantly, as soon as I updated my driver past v306.97, and all subsequent ones have the same issue. I get past BIOS, see the blue Windows 8 logo, then nothing. Problem is, I can't live with v306.97 because it causes my entire Adobe CS6 to crash incessantly with an inexplicable OpenGL error.

Nvidia has definitely coerced me to upgrade; I had no choice but to order a new GTX 660 that performs about the same. Bastards.


----------



## Skullwipe

Alright, well that answers one of my questions. I was just trying to figure out what the last drivers were that actually pertained to the 400 series, came up with 306.23 . Last time I had video driver issues was with my 9800 GTX SLI set up, turned out to be hardware related.


----------



## Protoe

Add another to the growing list of people experiencing USB issues with the UD3H. I don't have the time, nor the patience to wait three weeks for RMA atm, so I purchased a Belkin USB mini-hub for dirt cheap off Amazon to mitigate the lack of functional ports for now.

Installing Windows 7 wasn't even an issue since I slip-streamed the necessary drivers for USB 3 ahead of time so all USB ports would work during the Windows installation process. All for nothing I guess.


----------



## aar0nsky

I just received my ud3h hopefully it will be like my last ud3 which is still kicking strong. Im switching from asrock due to finicky issues that I am fed up with.(it was my first time venturing away from gigabyte and i regret doing so). hopefully i have some good results with this board and my 3570k.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aar0nsky*
> 
> I just received my ud3h hopefully it will be like my last ud3 which is still kicking strong. Im switching from asrock due to finicky issues that I am fed up with.(it was my first time venturing away from gigabyte and i regret doing so). hopefully i have some good results with this board and my 3570k.


I have one Asrock board, for one reason only: the CIR header. Works good with a remote for my HTPC. Other than that or buying a high end Asrock I will stick with Gigabyte for now.
Wish Gigabyte would put CIR headers on their m-atx boards.


----------



## Belial

Does anyone ever mess with the other LLCs and PWM options? Like DDR LLC, VTT LLC?

Or the switch rates? I got a bunch of thermal diodes on my VRM, as well as the i/o reporting the temps, and even when i set the cpu switch rate to 600khz they always stay below like 50*C. I don't think there was an increase in temp when I maxed out the switch rate. Why not just max these out since they run so cool on the UD3H/UD5H? I mean they can only help with performance right?
Quote:


> I just received my ud3h hopefully it will be like my last ud3 which is still kicking strong. Im switching from asrock due to finicky issues that I am fed up with.(it was my first time venturing away from gigabyte and i regret doing so). hopefully i have some good results with this board and my 3570k.


I'd love to hear specifics. It's hard to hear a good opinion on a board because everyone is so biased (yea i recommend the asrock. Why? because i own it and it hasn't blown up so it's clearly better than any other motherboard). People like you who've owned both should definitely give specifics!

I think people here would love to hear more about why gigabyte z77 is best ^^
Quote:


> After doing a bit more research I found that this is a known issue on this board and is a problem the VIA USB ports which can turn into a nightmare and are very finicky as to which devices are plugged into which ports. Also not sure why the GA manual specifically lists the two USB ports located by the PS2 port specifically as "Keyboard" as they will not work with until after driver installation, meaning they wont work during Windows installation. There even was a sticker on those ports to use these for kbm.
> 
> There's a thread on tweaktown about other people having issues as well as other threads on other forums. A Google search shows that many have the same problem.
> 
> On a side note, every time I try to install the latest Intel USB 3.0 drivers (2.0.0.100) I get an error message that my system does not meet the minimum system requirements. The ones from the Gigabyte website however work.
> 
> Hope this helps anyone running into the same issue.


I don't really see the problem, don't use those ports during installation. Any board can be buggy when you haven't got the drivers and such all in place yet. Windows 8 also has usb 3.0 drivers so there's no problem with w8. I mean it's as simple as just move the keyboard and mouse to a different slot when installing windows.

I really dislike how the UD5H lacks a ps/2 port. That makes no sense at all to remove it on the ud5h, it's much better for keyboards to run ps/2 than usb, and anyone with a ud5h is going to have a mechanical keyboard and care ;/


----------



## frag85

Its a shame Gigabyte/VIA cannot sort out the USB issues. I almost want to sell my UD3H for some other brand because of it.

For the extra cost of using a different controller they would probably save the cost in tech support, an additional Intel controller can't be _that_ much more $$ can it? I am still having problems with the VIA ports and certain USB2 devices. I've only had to swap things around a couple times but its still annoying pulling my case out to do so.


----------



## DeXel

Intel USB 3.0 controller is integrated to Z77 chipset. I don't think Intel sells them separately yet.

Does anybody with UD3H and VIA issues use Windows 8 or some version of Linux?


----------



## iSpark

Hi guys

I just got a Gigabyte Z77X UD5H (Marvell controller gave me a headache but switching to Intel controller fixed that...lol), and I had a couple of questions regarding the Debug LED.

1. The code A0, indicates 'IDE initialization is started'. Is that the all clear sign and system running normal? It seems to be running fine. 
2. Is there a way to set the Debug LED to show CPU temp after system has posted?

Thanks


----------



## coolhandluke41

can someone explain ,why would you want win8 instead of win7 ?


----------



## DeXel

Because there is no reason to stick with Win 7 unless one is absolutely in love with start menu, or already has a copy installed. I find new start menu much more useful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSpark*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I just got a Gigabyte Z77X UD5H (Marvell controller gave me a headache but switching to Intel controller fixed that...lol), and I had a couple of questions regarding the Debug LED.
> 
> 1. The code A0, indicates 'IDE initialization is started'. Is that the all clear sign and system running normal? It seems to be running fine.
> 2. Is there a way to set the Debug LED to show CPU temp after system has posted?
> 
> Thanks


1. Yep.
2. No.


----------



## frag85

I know the z77 has intel's USB3 controller built in, but you can only have so many ports. I didn't realize intel didn't sell separate controllers. I might still be living in the dark ages, but I don't have any USB3 devices, or any interest in getting any at this point in time. I guess an addon rear USB panel could work. I have one header still available on the mobo.

Does MS do the student discount for Win8? I remember getting my Win7 for like $20, or $30, at most.


----------



## iSpark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> 1. Yep.
> 2. No.


3. Crap
 








Thanks


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> I know the z77 has intel's USB3 controller built in, but you can only have so many ports.
> 
> Does MS do the student discount for WIn8? I remember getting my Win7 for like $20, or $30, at most.


That's why other boards use ASMedia controllers, Ethia, NEC, and so many more. UD3H uses VIA USBs, and UD5H uses VIA hub, There is no problem with UD5H's implementation, but I hear so many negatives from UD3H owners...

Windows 7 was going for $30 if you were a student for about a year or two. Then they increased prices to $70.

When Windows 8 came out, it was going for $40 without any sort of student discount, and now up to ~$200. Their current student discount is $70.

So if you haven't already bought a copy, but plan to, you missed the cheapest offer.

All these prices are for upgrades. BTW OEM copy of Windows 8 is transferable from what I've heard.


----------



## Belial

There's a simple registry fix to use windows 8 upgrade for a fresh install. That was absolutely ******ed. Because I had upgraded to an SSD on the computer, technically, the upgrade version doesn't work, even though all I'm doing is upgrading.

Then I upgraded to a new computer. I wasn't doing a fresh install, I was simply transferring my windows 8 to my new upgrade computer. But because you are not allowed to put the windows 8 upgrade on 2 computers, I wasn't allowed to do that? All you have to do to get around that is when on the phone activation, you tell the computer automaton 'this is the only computer'. I mean it is.

Not to recommend anything grey at all here, but there's a lot of crap to deal with on the windows 8 activation and install. I totally understand it, not mad or anything at all about it, but it's just ridiculous. So a new SSD is technically a new computer? What if my current HDD breaks, does that mean I have to buy a new windows 8 as well? What if I just move the old system drive, to my new system, is that a 'fresh install'? -_-


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> There's a simple registry fix to use windows 8 upgrade for a fresh install. That was absolutely ******ed. Because I had upgraded to an SSD on the computer, technically, the upgrade version doesn't work, even though all I'm doing is upgrading.
> 
> Then I upgraded to a new computer. I wasn't doing a fresh install, I was simply transferring my windows 8 to my new upgrade computer. But because you are not allowed to put the windows 8 upgrade on 2 computers, I wasn't allowed to do that? All you have to do to get around that is when on the phone activation, you tell the computer automaton 'this is the only computer'. I mean it is.
> 
> Not to recommend anything grey at all here, but there's a lot of crap to deal with on the windows 8 activation and install. I totally understand it, not mad or anything at all about it, but it's just ridiculous. So a new SSD is technically a new computer? What if my current HDD breaks, does that mean I have to buy a new windows 8 as well? What if I just move the old system drive, to my new system, is that a 'fresh install'? -_-


Microsoft class the computer as the motherboard don't they? So as far as I'm aware you can change anything but the motherboard and still be alright windows 8 activation wise.

And even then as you say you can phone up the activation line and say it's only installed on one computer and you're good to go regardless of what you change. I've used my windows 8 upgrade licence on 3 different computers so far by doing this.


----------



## GOTFrog

I'm really thinking hard on comming back to GB. My Asus pos just don't want to cooperate evrytime I upgrade something I get memory errors. So I'm prolly going to pick a UD5H up tomorrow morning, this thread is grtting really long right now running a 2500k are there still problems with sandies or should I just take that time to grab an Ivy.


----------



## aar0nsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Does anyone ever mess with the other LLCs and PWM options? Like DDR LLC, VTT LLC?
> 
> Or the switch rates? I got a bunch of thermal diodes on my VRM, as well as the i/o reporting the temps, and even when i set the cpu switch rate to 600khz they always stay below like 50*C. I don't think there was an increase in temp when I maxed out the switch rate. Why not just max these out since they run so cool on the UD3H/UD5H? I mean they can only help with performance right?
> I'd love to hear specifics. It's hard to hear a good opinion on a board because everyone is so biased (yea i recommend the asrock. Why? because i own it and it hasn't blown up so it's clearly better than any other motherboard). People like you who've owned both should definitely give specifics!
> 
> I think people here would love to hear more about why gigabyte z77 is best ^^
> I don't really see the problem, don't use those ports during installation. Any board can be buggy when you haven't got the drivers and such all in place yet. Windows 8 also has usb 3.0 drivers so there's no problem with w8. I mean it's as simple as just move the keyboard and mouse to a different slot when installing windows.
> 
> I really dislike how the UD5H lacks a ps/2 port. That makes no sense at all to remove it on the ud5h, it's much better for keyboards to run ps/2 than usb, and anyone with a ud5h is going to have a mechanical keyboard and care ;/


I will definitely be comparing and contrasting. I had good luck with the asrock board and I got to 4.6ghz on my 3570k in the first week. Very straightforward as far as the options in the bios go. I am waiting on a rotary 90 degree fitting for my loop otherwise I could start yackin about the gigabyte board. My fitting and some other goodies should be here tomorrow or the next day so I will definitely have to give my opinions.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> can someone explain ,why would you want win8 instead of win7 ?


There are arguments for and against windows 8. I had it installed and I used a program called startisback to get windows 8 to behave like windows 7. The only difference was that windows 8 is new and had more bugs for the variety of programs that I use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Because there is no reason to stick with Win 7 unless one is absolutely in love with start menu, or already has a copy installed. I find new start menu much more useful.
> 1. Yep.
> 2. No.


I find the new start menu too forceful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> That's why other boards use ASMedia controllers, Ethia, NEC, and so many more. UD3H uses VIA USBs, and UD5H uses VIA hub, There is no problem with UD5H's implementation, but I hear so many negatives from UD3H owners...
> 
> Windows 7 was going for $30 if you were a student for about a year or two. Then they increased prices to $70.
> 
> When Windows 8 came out, it was going for $40 without any sort of student discount, and now up to ~$200. Their current student discount is $70.
> 
> So if you haven't already bought a copy, but plan to, you missed the cheapest offer.
> 
> All these prices are for upgrades. BTW OEM copy of Windows 8 is transferable from what I've heard.


I got the student edition for 17 dollars. Around the time they offered it for 40 bucks for students, they also had a coupon for so much off and I somehow got it for less than 20. I am thinking about just reloading windows 7 this time around just because windows 8 does not impress me.


----------



## DeXel

Windows 7 Upgrade activation behaves exactly the same way. Minus the fact that you didn't have to use a command key to use phone activation, but if you install it on a system without Windows on HDD, it will behave exactly the same way. Nothing new here. Previously you've probably used Windows 7 Full or OEM edition.

Also unless things changed, if you get an image of full Windows 8 disk, you won't have any problems with activation because full version install with that registry key applied, or something like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aar0nsky*
> 
> I will definitely be comparing and contrasting. I had good luck with the asrock board and I got to 4.6ghz on my 3570k in the first week. Very straightforward as far as the options in the bios go. I am waiting on a rotary 90 degree fitting for my loop otherwise I could start yackin about the gigabyte board. My fitting and some other goodies should be here tomorrow or the next day so I will definitely have to give my opinions.
> There are arguments for and against windows 8. I had it installed and I used a program called startisback to get windows 8 to behave like windows 7. The only difference was that windows 8 is new and had more bugs for the variety of programs that I use.
> I find the new start menu too forceful.
> I got the student edition for 17 dollars. Around the time they offered it for 40 bucks for students, they also had a coupon for so much off and I somehow got it for less than 20. I am thinking about just reloading windows 7 this time around just because windows 8 does not impress me.


I've always found start menu to be a joke and fairly unorganized with its folder structure. Since Vista times I've only used it for search commands. Windows 8's start menu allows that, but I can also pin cool stuff, like steam games using Steam Tile or Pin Anything. It's not anywhere perfect though. They could make it more keyboard friendly by basically creating 2 different layouts for keyboards and touch screens. Windows Store also needs quality apps. A good mail client for the start because the included one doesn't sync properly.

Student edition of Windows 8? I didn't hear of that offer







. I wish my college had DreamSpark Premium though.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> There's a simple registry fix to use windows 8 upgrade for a fresh install. That was absolutely ******ed. Because I had upgraded to an SSD on the computer, technically, the upgrade version doesn't work, even though all I'm doing is upgrading.
> 
> Then I upgraded to a new computer. I wasn't doing a fresh install, I was simply transferring my windows 8 to my new upgrade computer. But because you are not allowed to put the windows 8 upgrade on 2 computers, I wasn't allowed to do that? All you have to do to get around that is when on the phone activation, you tell the computer automaton 'this is the only computer'. I mean it is.
> 
> Not to recommend anything grey at all here, but there's a lot of crap to deal with on the windows 8 activation and install. I totally understand it, not mad or anything at all about it, but it's just ridiculous. So a new SSD is technically a new computer? What if my current HDD breaks, does that mean I have to buy a new windows 8 as well? What if I just move the old system drive, to my new system, is that a 'fresh install'? -_-


Solution was even easier than that. You get it to install but it won't authenticate... then, you simply "upgrade" your windows 8 to windows 8 and it counts as the upgrade and authenticates fine. I had to do it on my brother's computer as his hard drive died during win8 install lol


----------



## DeXel

Yea that works too.


----------



## GOTFrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> I'm really thinking hard on comming back to GB. My Asus pos just don't want to cooperate evrytime I upgrade something I get memory errors. So I'm prolly going to pick a UD5H up tomorrow morning, this thread is grtting really long right now running a 2500k are there still problems with sandies or should I just take that time to grab an Ivy.


Sorry for quiting myself, I'm about to go hrab it and needed an answer on if there's still issues with sandies on these boards


----------



## stasio

New BIOS is out.


----------



## gluto

Hi all

My PC:
GA-Z77X-DH3 rev 1.0 bios F16
I5-3570K / 8MB PC12800, Corsair HX650, 6 "green" 1TB and 2TB HDD + 1 Samsung 840 pro 128 for OS W7 64bits
I have added 3 days ago a Sapphire radeon HD5770 1GB DDR5 purchased new but at low price (end of life familly)

The PC starts, but does not acces to boot at the first power on try.
Fans are running, but no beep or bios post. No display, It can stay like this indefinitly.
--> power off by button.
If the second try occur before around 2mn, it will boot succesfully, and no problem to operate under W7 64bits.
If I let the PC go into sleep mode, it can go out of sleep mode properly if I hit the keyboard less than 2 mn after entering in sleep mode.
If it occurs after ~ 2mn, same state after restart from sleep: Fans are running, nothing else...
Event observer says "Power kernel error." crititcal error...

When PC is started, all is clear running W7, playing full HD games, and using it for hours...

I don't know what can cause this problem at start or restart of the PC.
PCI-e bus appears to be involved.
I tried the 2 other PCI-e available locations for GPU without success...

It can not comes from W7 or windows MB drivers... Not launched...
Material cause or bios configuration cause probably, I achieved bios default restore and clear CMOS without success...
Anyone have an idea to fix it?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> New BIOS is out.


Updated to F19j from F19h.

Pro's: Nice new Boot Logo

Con's: Cant get into BIOS anymore as Keyboard is not recognized until it loads into Windows.


----------



## Belial

Are you supposed to update bios? I thought with bios, if it aint broke dont fix it kind of thing?


----------



## 8bitG33k

I suppose that's a matter of debate.


----------



## stasio

Anytime can flash back.









......or change usb port for keyboard.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Anytime can flash back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ......or change usb port for keyboard.


Yep, did both and problem solved by flashing back to F19h.

Just thought I'd report my findings.


----------



## GOTFrog

About to power on anything I need to know

Edit:
Mobo ud5h
Cpu 3770k
Ram corsair vengeance lp 2 x 8gb
Ssd samsung 840 250gb

Also can the mobo afjust fan speed if they are 3pin connecters.


----------



## Scotty99

Hey guys, i got this biostar motherboard that has a bios flaw and was wondering if you would suggest the UD3H. I am going to be overclocking high on a daily basis (4.6-4.8 depending) and am planning on using offset voltages with all power savign features enabled. There is an open box at my microcenter for 115.00 so 30 bucks off of retail

My biostar works fine up to mediocre overclocks (4.2) but there is a flaw where i cannot enable LLC with offset voltages because the stock LLC level is too high and my bios does not allow negative offset values to counteract this. This is present on all P67 biostar boards and all bios versions, and they have not replied to my emails. My question would be (instead of reading this whole thread) does the UD3H exhibit any weird issues like this in relation to offset overclocking and LLC or should i be good to go?


----------



## Belial

Are you getting an ivy bridge chip too? If you are, I'd recommend the P8Z77-V LK instead, it's $59 bundle price at MC. The UD3H is better but not $40+ better.

Generally I'd go with the D3H, UD3H as they are the cheapest board I feel that really has acceptable quality, or rather they have way more quality than similarly priced boards like the extreme4, msi g45 (ugh 2 crap boards), the asus LK. but microcenter specials throw a wrench into the whole equation, I bought an msi g41 once because it was $20. Terrible board but at $20 it's awesome.

And I believe the ud3h is like $90 brand new with bundle price. Even if you aren't buying an ivy bridge, just buy it and sell it on ebay.

Why do you need the ud3h? LLC just might allow you slightly less voltage. So what if you can't use LLC with your offset, i wouldn't buy a new motherboard over it. Then again you can just sell your biostar for what you paid for it basically and get the ud3h or another good mobo on sale with the money so why not. I'm not really sure what you are doing.

If you aren't buying an ivy bridge and therefore no bundle deal then yea that $115 ud3h open box is a great deal, I'd say better than any other mobo out there. Why don't you just sell your i5-2500k on ebay, im pretty sure you can get at least 160-180 for it, and then sell your biostar board for like $60-80.... you should be able to get the 3570K + P8Z77-V LK for less than what you sell your i5-2500k+biostar for.
Quote:


> and they have not replied to my emails.


That surprises me. Are you emailing the right department? They have always been quick to respond to me and very personable. They also sent me stickers when I asked for them, and quite a few companies would not reply to my request for a sticker. (noctua, antec, biostar, kingston, gskill did, while mushkin did not but they have great rma and support, and corsair, coolermaster, ducky, steelseries, nzxt, yate loon did not).


----------



## Scotty99

I get crashes with offset and LLC disabled when i go 4.6 or higher, no matter what the volts i set it to. I prefer sandy to ivy for obvious reasons but it is weird buying a mobo from microcenter without buying a CPU but i dont know anyone that would want a 3570k or a i3, but it is open box so its 30 off retail anyways.

As for biostar ive sent them two emails to [email protected] and have not received a reply. If biostar would fix bios i would keep this board as i have not had any issues with it other than this bios flaw.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Updated to F19j from F19h.
> 
> Pro's: Nice new Boot Logo
> 
> Con's: Cant get into BIOS anymore as Keyboard is not recognized until it loads into Windows.


Enable full USB initialization. Or use UEFI installation of Windows 8 + this.

I haven't flashed F15r yet, but I think that's the case here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I get crashes with offset and LLC disabled when i go 4.6 or higher, no matter what the volts i set it to. I prefer sandy to ivy for obvious reasons but it is weird buying a mobo from microcenter without buying a CPU but i dont know anyone that would want a 3570k or a i3, but it is open box so its 30 off retail anyways.
> 
> As for biostar ive sent them two emails to [email protected] and have not received a reply. If biostar would fix bios i would keep this board as i have not had any issues with it other than this bios flaw.


Enable PLL overvoltage. If it's called that way on Biostar boards.


----------



## Scotty99

No thats not the problem, PLL overvoltage is only there to get you to boot into windows at high clocks.

Trust me the problem is with the bios, there is an enormous thread about it on these forums lol. Im not looking for advice on my Biostar, i was just explaining to the person who asked me what the problem was.


----------



## DeXel

Well, UD3H is definitely a good choice. The only problem I hear is people bashing USB 3.0 VIA ports lol. It supports negative offset.

Just flashed F15r.

What's new - Ultra Fast Boot, but maybe it was on F15q too. Never checked.

What's broken?

Enabling fast boot disables my overclock.

My keyboard works as it always did. Even with partial USB initialization. Filco clone FTW.


----------



## Scotty99

Good to hear it supports negative offset : P

Im gonna give biostar a few more days to reply, if not this is the board im gonna get.


----------



## GOTFrog

Just wondering how ling does the auto tune option in ET6 usualy take to run it's course.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> About to power on anything I need to know
> 
> Edit:
> Mobo ud5h
> Cpu 3770k
> Ram corsair vengeance lp 2 x 8gb
> Ssd samsung 840 250gb
> 
> Also can the mobo afjust fan speed if they are 3pin connecters.


The UD5H is a good board (I have two) but fan control is the pits except for the cpu fan. I run water on both mine so no problem.


----------



## GOTFrog

Decided to use my fan controler, since I don't have anything usb 3 I left the front panel thing in the box.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Enable full USB initialization. Or use UEFI installation of Windows 8 + this.
> 
> I haven't flashed F15r yet, but I think that's the case here.


Does this work for Win 7 as well?


----------



## DeXel

Nope. There is some kind of tight integration between Windows 8 and UEFI.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Maybe its time I switched to 8. Is there any reason to stay on 7?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Maybe its time I switched to 8. Is there any reason to stay on 7?


Other than a few pain in the rear programs that won't uninstall in Windows 8 after being installed not really. The best thing I can recommend, is downloading 7zip first. Every now and then, an installer won't work because of compatability, and setting the compatability mode to windows 7 doesn't work. You unpack the installer using 7zip, and set compatability on the unpacked install exe within the installer and it works perfectly. That's how users of Corsair headsets install their drivers.

An example of a program that will not uninstall is VLC media player. No matter what I did, I couldn't get it off my computer. Everything else though works fine, and gaming is flawless, no issues. Windows 8 also has more out of the box features for multi monitor setups, such as control over the task bar, where the icons pop up, running multiple wallpapers, etc. Has most of the features of multimon built right in now.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> I get crashes with offset and LLC disabled when i go 4.6 or higher, no matter what the volts i set it to. I prefer sandy to ivy for obvious reasons but it is weird buying a mobo from microcenter without buying a CPU but i dont know anyone that would want a 3570k or a i3, but it is open box so its 30 off retail anyways.
> 
> As for biostar ive sent them two emails to [email protected] and have not received a reply. If biostar would fix bios i would keep this board as i have not had any issues with it other than this bios flaw.


You sell it on ebay or craigslist, trust me, someone will buy it instantly if you list it at the price you bought it for from microcenter. Going rate for i5-3570K on ebay is $215:
http://www.ebay.com/csc/CPUs-Processors-/164/i.html?LH_Sold=1&_from=R40&LH_Complete=1&_nkw=i5-3570k

You could also just buy the cheaper i3. That way, i don't know, if you have less in your bank account, you can just buy the i3 instead of the i5, and still get the motherboard combo. Going rate for the i3-3225 seems to be somewhere around $120+:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=i5-3570k&LH_Sold=1&_osacat=164&_from=R40&LH_Complete=1&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=i3-3225&_sacat=164

I mean you are basically just paying $139 for an i5-3570K if you get a bundle deal. I'd say a $139 i5-3570K is an amazing deal, either sell your old cpu, or your new i5-3570k and pocket $75. Just requires a little investment is all.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Other than a few pain in the rear programs that won't uninstall in Windows 8 after being installed not really. The best thing I can recommend, is downloading 7zip first. Every now and then, an installer won't work because of compatability, and setting the compatability mode to windows 7 doesn't work. You unpack the installer using 7zip, and set compatability on the unpacked install exe within the installer and it works perfectly. That's how users of Corsair headsets install their drivers.
> 
> An example of a program that will not uninstall is VLC media player. No matter what I did, I couldn't get it off my computer. Everything else though works fine, and gaming is flawless, no issues. Windows 8 also has more out of the box features for multi monitor setups, such as control over the task bar, where the icons pop up, running multiple wallpapers, etc. Has most of the features of multimon built right in now.


I'm on 8 and have none of these problems.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Other than a few pain in the rear programs that won't uninstall in Windows 8 after being installed not really. The best thing I can recommend, is downloading 7zip first. Every now and then, an installer won't work because of compatability, and setting the compatability mode to windows 7 doesn't work. You unpack the installer using 7zip, and set compatability on the unpacked install exe within the installer and it works perfectly. That's how users of Corsair headsets install their drivers.
> 
> An example of a program that will not uninstall is VLC media player. No matter what I did, I couldn't get it off my computer. Everything else though works fine, and gaming is flawless, no issues. Windows 8 also has more out of the box features for multi monitor setups, such as control over the task bar, where the icons pop up, running multiple wallpapers, etc. Has most of the features of multimon built right in now.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm on 8 and have none of these problems.
Click to expand...

Did you install it right on retail launch? That's when I installed VLC and that installed copy wouldn't uninstall. Same with a few others. I haven't tried to remove anything else that I have on there as I reformatted recently and have bare bones stuff on here but I was just pointing out.

As to the drivers for the Corsair Vengeance headsets, that's actually recommended on their forums as the installation method of their drivers for Windows 8 right now. lol


----------



## DeXel

You obviously might have problems with software that don't officially support Windows 8. Current version of VLC lists 8 as compatible. Same with drivers.


----------



## Belial

I just put in the f15 bios. The new memory options are awesome, I was able to do 2600mhz when I couldnt before (i think at best before I booted but on an extremely high 1.85v on ridiculous timings). It's too unstable, would have to really loosen way too many secondary and tertiary timings to be worth it over 2400mhz.

however im having to really fight this bios. I dont know what it is exactly, but like my ram timings aren't ever saved, or they are saved and displayed in the MIT correctly but then i go into windows and not all the timings have been registered. I have to cmos reset to clear out ram values. Eventually the fix for me was saving what i wanted to do as a profile, a cmos reset, booting up and setting that profile, and then going straight into windows, don't doublecheck in bios to make sure its in or anything.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Did you install it right on retail launch?


Yeah I have a retail copy of Pro, you might want to reinstall it.


----------



## sixor

yep, win8 is great once you disable metro, uac, and give yourself full admin rights

i use this too

1
net user administrator /active:yes

2
1) Type secpol.msc in the Start Menu and press Enter.

2) Double click on Local Policies then double click on Security Options.

3) Scroll to the bottom to this entry -

User Account Control: Run all administrators in Admin approval mode.

Double click that line.

4) Set it to disabled then press OK.

5) Reboot.

3
Dism /online /enable-feature /featurename:NetFx3 /All /Source:e:\sources\sxs /LimitAccess

4
Type powercfg -h off


----------



## DeXel

Windows users always prefer full admin right for no obvious reasons. UAC provides more security from dumb programs launching without your permission, and it's fast. Why would anyone want to disable it?

Anyway if you do it for yourself OK, but don't recommend others to do it without explaining downsides.


----------



## RubaPowa

Anyone have or knows a guide of the Load Line calibration levels of Z77X-D3H? Wanna know how many volts add each level











Thx for the help


----------



## DeXel

It should be similar to UD5H. There is about 0.010v vdroop on each level. Extreme is near 0, Turbo is 0.010 and so on.


----------



## 8bitG33k

I might give 8 a whirl, do a dual boot and see where that takes me.

And UAC is one of the first things I disable on my PC, even before installing any drivers. But I agree, not everyone should.


----------



## BobLeProf

My UD5H seems to like 15r (I had gone back to 15p after many problems with 15q). But I am perplexed about Fastboot. I have BIOS (MBR not UEFI) set for Windows 8 and the three options for Fastboot seem to yield strange results. Normal takes about 21-22 seconds to get to my Windows 8 pro 64-bit lock screen. Fastboot takes 20-21 seconds (close enough that the difference might just be my finger on the stopwatch). Ultra Fastboot takes about 26 seconds to get to the lock screen. Is Fastboot just not useful? Is it because I am not using UEFI installation? Might there be some other reason? (I love my normal boot speed so it's not a big deal. I'm just curious.)

I am also still not able to use Sleep. It works inconsistently. Return from sleep is sometimes fast, sometimes slow, and sometimes crashes with "Your PC ran into a problem and needs to restart." (Windows problem? GB problem? Je ne sais pas.) Here too, Win 8 boot on this machine is fast enough that I can do without Sleep, but I don't like it when things don't work.

After updating the BIOS from 15p to 15r, most of the times that I shut down, the computer would shut off and then restart. After I cleared CMOS, that problem seems to be completely gone.

I also increased my default igpx memory, and it remembers.

So far I am very happy with this BIOS (especially after 15q).

Bob


----------



## GOTFrog

Just wondering have you guys updated the Virtue MVP software, if so where did you get the new version, if I click on the update thing it sends me to buy the thing.


----------



## RubaPowa

Changing the turbo boost to "enabled" and 37 each core (example) the system never uses the turbo even using prime95 , but if i leave it to auto works fine , anyone knows why? :/

Inside the SO im using high perfomance.



Its an GA-Z77X-D3H with F16 firmware.


----------



## DeXel

Set CPU clock ratio to 37 too.

BobLeProf, in order for Fast Boot to work you'll need your OS in UEFI mode because fast boot basically uses UEFI to cut down the boot times.

Your GPU will also need to support UEFI for maximum improvement in boot times. Since you use iGPU that isn't a problem.

Also Fast Boot seems to be broken in F15r, and probably doesn't do anything at current stage. It definitely worked in older F15 versions released before F15o.


----------



## RubaPowa

Just wanna use the overclock when i needed , theres no point in use more power for nothing :/


----------



## DeXel

I can't exactly remember, but if you basically want it to do 3.3Ghz and then jump to higher value, probably isn't going to work.

However, try to increase power limit and current limit. And disable thermal monitor.


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Set CPU clock ratio to 37 too.
> 
> BobLeProf, in order for Fast Boot to work you'll need your OS in UEFI mode because fast boot basically uses UEFI to cut down the boot times.
> 
> Your GPU will also need to support UEFI for maximum improvement in boot times. Since you use iGPU that isn't a problem.
> 
> Also Fast Boot seems to be broken in F15r, and probably doesn't do anything at current stage. It definitely worked in older F15 versions released before F15o.


Thank you. Now I have a reason to use UEFI on my next clean install.

Bob


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> My UD5H seems to like 15r (I had gone back to 15p after many problems with 15q). But I am perplexed about Fastboot. I have BIOS (MBR not UEFI) set for Windows 8 and the three options for Fastboot seem to yield strange results. Normal takes about 21-22 seconds to get to my Windows 8 pro 64-bit lock screen. Fastboot takes 20-21 seconds (close enough that the difference might just be my finger on the stopwatch). Ultra Fastboot takes about 26 seconds to get to the lock screen. Is Fastboot just not useful? Is it because I am not using UEFI installation? Might there be some other reason? (I love my normal boot speed so it's not a big deal. I'm just curious.)


I'd love to know what fast boot does for windows 7.
Quote:


> UAC provides more security from dumb programs launching without your permission, and it's fast. Why would anyone want to disable it?


whaaat? I dont understand you here at all. UAC is that obnoxious pop-up window every time you open a program. Heck that!

Quote:


> Q:Changing the turbo boost to "enabled" and 37 each core (example) the system never uses the turbo even using prime95 , but if i leave it to auto works fine , anyone knows why? :/
> 
> Inside the SO im using high perfomance.
> 
> A: .......Set CPU clock ratio to 37 too.


What? For me it works. If I set my turbo to Enabled: X/X/X/X, it overrides any value I put for manual core ratio. I'm pretty sure setting the core ratio is basically setting your Turbo Ratios to whatever value for all of them.
Quote:


> And disable thermal monitor.


Why? and what is it?

F15 bios is a huge pain in the patooey for me. I'm not sure, but it seems like it never takes values I set. Or sometimes it does. It might not be taking certain values I'm putting in because they are unstable, but it's very hard to tell, because it's not telling you it's stable by crashing or beeping, you just realize 'hey I manually set that timing to something else'....

And I'm not entirely sure on this, but once this happens, if you ever try to change values it won't take on them either, it'll stay stuck to a previous successful boot or something.

It's a huge pain, I don't know if the BIOS is ever taking what I set, so every time I change values in BIOS, I have to save it as a profile, turn it off, CMOS reset, and then use the profile. Then I know for sure it either takes the values, or it doesn't.

Anyone else having this issue? It sucks so bad.


----------



## Belial

Oh and the power button, case or motherboard, causes the bios to freeze, it doesnt work in the bios. im starting to hate this bios.

and it sometimes ignores my bootup numlock option as disabled. like right before the w7 login screen comes the numlock will come on.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> whaaat? I dont understand you here at all. UAC is that obnoxious pop-up window every time you open a program. Heck that!


Never used anything but Windows? In Linux any application requiring elevated (root) access needs su command.

UAC is Microsoft's implementation of su or sudo.

Here a scenario. You browse a website, and your browser starts to download suspicious file and launches it.

UAC on - you reject it, PC safe -> profit.
UAC off - the malware installs in background and your PC is now infected.

UAC doesn't pop up every time. It only does when application needs elevated access. In other words, it can hurt your system.
Quote:


> Why? and what is it?


Thermal throttling from what I've read.

Whether you leave it on, or off is up too you, but don't rush to your friend's PCs and turning it off. That's what I see "experts" doing...


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Never used anything but Windows? In Linux any application requiring elevated (root) access needs su command.
> 
> UAC is Microsoft's implementation of su or sudo.
> 
> Here a scenario. You browse a website, and your browser starts to download suspicious file and launches it.
> 
> UAC on - you reject it, PC safe -> profit.
> UAC off - the malware installs in background and your PC is now infected.
> 
> UAC doesn't pop up every time. It only does when application needs elevated access. In other words, it can hurt your system.
> Thermal throttling from what I've read.
> 
> Whether you leave it on, or off is up too you, but don't rush to your friend's PCs and turning it off. That's what I see "experts" doing...


disabled uac since vista, no virus, no spyware, since i am not a noob

also disabled pagefile since xp, no problem either


----------



## DeXel

I disable pagefile too when I have a ton of RAM.

UAC saved me few times from bunch of toolbars that were included with some free programs. Other than that if you are not a noob, sure.

My point is don't do it unless you understand why it's there and what it does. It doesn't bother me, but I set it on level two, so it doesn't dim the screen.

Also UAC on 7 and 8 works a lot faster than on Vista. I had to disable it on Vista too. And they have also added UAC levels.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> disabled uac since vista, no virus, no spyware, since i am not a noob


I don't use any antivirus either since I built my PC 2 Years ago and I'm fine, talking seriously here.


----------



## Scott1541

I haven't ever needed any antivirus software, but I have some installed just in case as I occasionally download dodgy stuff.


----------



## RubaPowa

Maybe can be the battery of bios the problem? I think is depleted becouse each time the electricity goes down all the config in bios is lost ...

A wierd thing ... if i try change the turbo ratio even putting it again the auto mode dont works , only come back reseting the whole config to "Load optimiced defaults"


----------



## DeXel

Well, get a new battery. If it doesn't work, we will go from there. Or maybe it's just broken in that BIOS version.


----------



## RubaPowa

Tried F16 , F15 and F14 versions , until tomorrow i cannot get a new battery , i hope thats the problem ...

Another thing ... i belive the speedstep and the other energy saving options arent working too , the processor is always at 3,3 even in idle ....


----------



## DeXel

If you have Windows power settings set on high performance by any chance, switch it back to balanced. They affect multiplier.


----------



## Shinzen ryu

UD5H and UD5H WIFI mobo owners, ONLY if you experience memory modules problems, especially the CORSAIR ones, DOWNLOAD THE FIRST 2013 Beta BIOS released by manufacturer..

Working perfectly for me...


----------



## RubaPowa

News , checking the bios "status" can see the problem is 100% of the mother board , my last chance is the battery...

Tried again with an older firmware this time the F10 , nothing new happens.

Some screenshots :

Status without oc ,auto boost, the bios config with 36 his self, works fine.


Status with oc manual boost of 37, but nothing happens , keep using 33.


This is the configuration for this last screenshot.


In the screen with boost u can see the max boost is 3,6 meanwhile in the screen with oc the turbo stays at the stock speed , nothing happen , the only changes are in the memory timmings , im starting thinking the mother board is broken :/

Lets hope the battery fix this ...


----------



## aar0nsky

It feels like its time to flash from stock bios to the latest(non beta of course). Not sure if this is the best idea while drinking.


----------



## stasio

"Status with oc manual boost of 37"................it's 33 what I see and is correct.


----------



## RubaPowa

Thats the problem because the boost is enabled with 37 in the 4 cores , in that case must be 3700 with 37 not 33.

Something is wrong because when i use the "manual" mode of the boost they go to stock speed forgetting the multiplier choosed.

This is the config for that status screenshot.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> UAC saved me few times from bunch of toolbars that were included with some free programs. Other than that if you are not a noob, sure.


Those programs ask you if you want that crap though, and you can always uninstall that stuff. Just be careful downloading free programs, they always include programs. cpu-z, hwinfo, etc, all do that to be free.

Page file = Virtual memory. I just let windows automatically set it. Starcraft2 uses a lot of it and I hear lots of people say you should max it out, 2x your ram, because of sc2. I know my athlon ii x3 HDD system appreciated it when I did this, I'm not sure if that's still relevant to my current SSD, i7 system. Then I hear people say disable it for SSDs, and then I hear people say no, that's only for really old SSDs and now it's just misinformation spread because it was true on older gen stuff (just like you hear people say turn off all power saving options when overclocking, you can't raise ram voltage on ivy bridge past 1.5+5%, etc).

Then there's also some ssd search option I hear people say to disable, but I think it's what affects your ability to go into start->type something in to search for it and it comes up right away, and that's really useful to me.


----------



## DeXel

Indexing is useless on SSDs since access time on SSDs are very fast.

Some programs don't let you choose lol. That was an example, but yeah stuff happens. Of course you can uninstall it later.

And I know what pagefile is lol. The only time I've need it on this build is when I loaded 30GB video file to Adobe Premiere.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RubaPowa*
> 
> Thats the problem because the boost is enabled with 37 in the 4 cores , in that case must be 3700 with 37 not 33.
> 
> Something is wrong because when i use the "manual" mode of the boost they go to stock speed forgetting the multiplier choosed.
> 
> This is the config for that status screenshot.


Load "Optimized Defaults" in BIOS.


----------



## SirWooties

I nearly had a heart attack. I figured i'd finally update my bios to the newest version so I flashed it using @bios. After it installed I nervously waited for it to reboot and I got the BLUE SCREEN!









Luckily it turns out the Bios Update reverted the AHCI setting back to IDE and I had to change it back. Disaster averted!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Indexing is useless on SSDs since access time on SSDs are very fast.


Useless as in it speeds things up but insignificantly so? (so why disable it?)


----------



## DeXel

I didn't notice difference at all by disabling indexing. The only reason to disable is that it takes some insignificant space, and creates additional writes to an SSD. Any reason to keep it on? Can't think of any.


----------



## RubaPowa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Load "Optimized Defaults" in BIOS.


Already done for 60 times or more, removed the battery , changed the firmware 6 times , nothing works , gonna make a new thread in the forum.


----------



## sixor

flashed latest beta ud3h f19j, enabled quickboot

now i can´t enter bios, WTH????????

i press del like crazy but nothin happens, also f2 and esc, nothing

stupid bios, disables constant vcore, so pc is very unstable


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I didn't notice difference at all by disabling indexing. The only reason to disable is that it takes some insignificant space, and creates additional writes to an SSD. Any reason to keep it on? Can't think of any.


In my experiences with SSD's ive found it best to enable AHCI and dont touch anything else, not even in windows. Taking this approach ive never had an SSD related blue screen, once i started doing "SSD optimizations" via SSD guides blue screens started showing. I think its because SSD's have come a long way in just a couple years.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> In my experiences with SSD's ive found it best to enable AHCI and dont touch anything else, not even in windows. Taking this approach ive never had an SSD related blue screen, once i started doing "SSD optimizations" via SSD guides blue screens started showing. I think its because SSD's have come a long way in just a couple years.


hell no

is a must to:
disable pagefile, index, hibernation, defrag

have ahci or raid with latest intel irst,

i absolutely use this apps, 100% safe
tweak-ssd-setup
SSDTweaker


----------



## Scotty99

I was just stating my experiences.

On two different SSD's i would get blue screens when disabling page file and hibernation, then after doing a secure erase and reload of the OS i would touch nothing in windows and no blue screens to this day.

SSD's have 5 year warranties (good ones) with 3,000.000 MTBF, if it dies at 5 years and 1 day you are prob due for an upgrade anyways.

Just my 2c.


----------



## DeXel

Sandforce?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> flashed latest beta ud3h f19j, enabled quickboot
> 
> now i can´t enter bios, WTH????????
> 
> i press del like crazy but nothin happens, also f2 and esc, nothing
> 
> stupid bios, disables constant vcore, so pc is very unstable


You'll have to set USB initialization set to full somehow. It's up to your keyboard. My works just fine with partial.

Since you use Windows 8, do this to get to it in the first place.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Sandforce?
> You'll have to set USB initialization set to full somehow. It's up to your keyboard. My works just fine with partial.
> 
> Since you use Windows 8, do this to get to it in the first place.


sandforce what? crucial m4 are micron

thanks, will try that

also my keyboard is ps2

i went back to f18 bios, beta f19j had dinamic vcore on by force, many crashes


----------



## DeXel

Questions before quotes are addressed to people above my post. In this case it's, Scotty99.

USB initialization thing won't work for PS/2. No idea why PS/2 doesn't work... But entering UEFI through Windows 8 should work on BIOSes that brought Windows 8 support (F15 branch for UD5H, F19? for UD3H).


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> flashed latest beta ud3h f19j, enabled quickboot
> 
> now i can´t enter bios, WTH????????
> 
> i press del like crazy but nothin happens, also f2 and esc, nothing
> 
> stupid bios, disables constant vcore, so pc is very unstable


lol you can just hit clear CMOS if you want, or increase the BCLK in windows too high and cause a crash. Or press delete not before, but just when the POST code hits 62.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> lol you can just hit clear CMOS if you want, or increase the BCLK in windows too high and cause a crash. Or press delete not before, but just when the POST code hits 62.


so every time i need to enter bios i need to clear cmos and setup all again? no thanks, also i pressed DEL like a maniac, still could not enter bios

bclk? i just OC by upping vcore 1.25 + 44 multi + turbo llc, that is a fixed vcore

on beta bios f19j, there is no fixed vcore, there is dinamic and it won´t work,


----------



## eBombzor

What's the difference between the 3 different performance enhance profiles? There's normal, turbo, and extreme.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> What's the difference between the 3 different performance enhance profiles? There's normal, turbo, and extreme.


timings i believe

i get better score in aida memory bench using extreme

but i just use turbo in case it helps with OC


----------



## RubaPowa

I finded a "solution" for my problem with the turbo boost , summary , doing oc the turbo boost dont work if i enter the same multiplier for all cores ej (38 38 38 38) the turbo boost dont work and only runs at stock speed (33).

I realized the turbo boost only works if one of the four cores is different ej (38 38 38 37)

Someone with a Z77X Gigabyte MB can tell me if any of you is using the turbo boost with the same multiplier or its my motherboard the problem ?

More information in #5044 #5056 #5058 #5061 #5064 #5071


----------



## invader1964

Hi I have Z77X UD3H since it came out and have had this issue with the USB 3.0 20 Pin header have a multi card reader Icy Box IB-865 3.5 inch Multicard Reader with USB 3.0 Hub when PC is booted from cold hub is recognised in windows 7, but when restarting not seen by OS if I unplug the 20pin header with the PC on it will be recognised as if plugging in a usb pendrive ?

I have read loads for forums for this issue have latest Intel and VIA drivers and firmware for the VL800 chipset have 19h bios about to update to 19j apart from this one issue board is rock solid

Any ideas will be great









update: updated to 19j and still the same issue.


----------



## expresso

i have a spare video card sitting around - its a few years old - from my old system

would anyone know if this video card would be an improvement over the Stock 3770k built in video ?

since i have it laying around - i was thinking of adding it to my system in hopes of improving the video side of things -

here is the card i have -

http://www.sparkle.com.tw/en/News.asp?id=42

my Win Score is a 6.5 because of the video - - just wondering if this would be worth it to install since i have it -

i use DVD fab alot - was curious if adding this video card make a difference over not having any video card ?

i am using UD5H board - 3770k chip - at 4.7 ghz -

also if i did add this card or any other card in the future - i would connect it to the card instead of the Board - - do i have to do anything else in the bios etc, to make it work correctly ?

thanks


----------



## Swiftes

alright guys!

Running my z7xx-u4h, seem to be having problems with overclocking though. whenever I try and overclock (used 100x42 for 4.2) and set it up in the bios, it will boot fine, display the overclock and have no problems. When I start stress testing, it reverts back to 3.4Ghz stock clocks (I see it update in CPU-Z) it doesn't crash or reboot or anything like that.

Any ideas?

running F2h bios.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> alright guys!
> 
> Running my z7xx-u4h, seem to be having problems with overclocking though. whenever I try and overclock (used 100x42 for 4.2) and set it up in the bios, it will boot fine, display the overclock and have no problems. When I start stress testing, it reverts back to 3.4Ghz stock clocks (I see it update in CPU-Z) it doesn't crash or reboot or anything like that.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> running F2h bios.


what are your settings on this page?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> alright guys!
> 
> Running my z7xx-u4h, seem to be having problems with overclocking though. whenever I try and overclock (used 100x42 for 4.2) and set it up in the bios, it will boot fine, display the overclock and have no problems. When I start stress testing, it reverts back to 3.4Ghz stock clocks (I see it update in CPU-Z) it doesn't crash or reboot or anything like that.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> running F2h bios.


Try disabling Turbo Boost.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> In my experiences with SSD's ive found it best to enable AHCI and dont touch anything else, not even in windows. Taking this approach ive never had an SSD related blue screen, once i started doing "SSD optimizations" via SSD guides blue screens started showing. I think its because SSD's have come a long way in just a couple years.
> 
> 
> 
> hell no
> 
> is a must to:
> disable pagefile, index, hibernation, defrag
> 
> have ahci or raid with latest intel irst,
> 
> i absolutely use this apps, 100% safe
> tweak-ssd-setup
> SSDTweaker
Click to expand...

I'm not so sure about pagefile/virtual memory.

Indexing I don't think matters, that was in regards to old drives. I think it's irrelevant either way, people disable because of additional writes (but those writes are so insignificant...), people keep it on because it's faster (but not by any significant margin at all..). Why bother turning it off. Or, why not turn it off, might as well not use those additional writes, right? I didn't mess with mine.

Hibernation, I actually have hibernation because that's what intel rapid start is. Or something like it.

w7 and w8 automatically dont defrag ssds.
Quote:


> What's the difference between the 3 different performance enhance profiles? There's normal, turbo, and extreme.


It's another one of the ways Gigabyte 'cheats' on the board so it gets better scores than others at stock settings, than places like TH will say omg what a great board it's faster at the same settings than the others!

It basically overclocks your RAM, one of the timings it changes. But the bad thing about it, is that it does it *variably and on it's own.* So like during a benchmarking program, it'll specifically tighten a timing.

I forgot which one it is, it's only a specific, single timing. I'd be okay with it but the fact that it variably changes it means there's no way to stress test for it. If you don't overclock your RAM or just after benchmark numbers, extreme is great (even in benching though I'd be careful with it because it may cause instability issues) but if you overclock your RAM or run XMP then set it to normal.

Source: gigabyte admin guy on the gigabyte forum.
Quote:


> alright guys!
> 
> Running my z7xx-u4h, seem to be having problems with overclocking though. whenever I try and overclock (used 100x42 for 4.2) and set it up in the bios, it will boot fine, display the overclock and have no problems. When I start stress testing, it reverts back to 3.4Ghz stock clocks (I see it update in CPU-Z) it doesn't crash or reboot or anything like that.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> running F2h bios.


It's because your overclock is unstable. This can also happen if your temps hit 105*C (throttling). Instability can manifest in thousands of ways but it's all the same - unstable is unstable. Increase voltage, lower overclock, etc...


----------



## Belial

So I failed prime95, again, at the 16th hour. Hardware failure on one worker. These ram timings, so hard. I'm pretty sure I'm just right there with stability but I have no idea what to loosen, what secondary tertiary to really loosen. I failed at about 19 hours of prime95 with tfc at 100 so then I went from TRFC from 100 to 110, like this (2400mhz CL8-12-8-28 1T 1.75v) and then failed at the 16th hour:



I have no idea which of these many, many timings is responsible for me to keep failing like this so I'm just going to bump voltage up from 1.75 to 1.76. Maybe I'll use DDR LLC too, haha.


----------



## Bullant

Your Dram refresh interval seems to low i would say,theirs lots of things you could change on your memory side to get better performance,at those speeds you should be able to run tWCL 7.It looks to me that you have touched to many things in your memory tweaker to get a big efficiency score,im not trying to bag you but its not all about big efficiency score.Back off on the tweaker and slowly test as you drop things down


----------



## Belial

When you say too low... too low as in unstable it's way too tight, or too low as in i could tighten it a lot more?

This is for a 24/7 overclock, obviously why im doing 24 hours p95. These are all the default timings my RAM goes to when it's at 1333 mhz CL9, which are rather tight - my ram's XMP profile and what it defaults to when set to 2400mhz is a lot looser than those timngs, like double them. All of them are default 1333 timings except: twl=8 (i hear it should be same as tcl so w/e), trfc=100 (74 not boot), RWDRDD = 4 (3 no boot), RRSR=5 (4 no boot).

So i figured instead of going crazy on timings, i try to work around these default 1333 timings. But if you know any I could tighten with no problem, please, be specific.

This was a recent benchmark I did:


----------



## Bullant

Is std for it 9000? 5200 is to tight


----------



## Belial

Standard was 9360 for it when it's set to 2400mhz. Unstable is unstable but I feel like I'm right on the edge of stability here, no?

I'm going to let this run of 1.76vdimm with turbo LLC go through. If it fails, I'll try reference interval from 5200 to maybe 6000 (back on 1.75v too).


----------



## Bullant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Standard was 9360 for it when it's set to 2400mhz. Unstable is unstable but I feel like I'm right on the edge of stability here, no?
> 
> I'm going to let this run of 1.76vdimm with turbo LLC go through. If it fails, I'll try reference interval from 5200 to maybe 6000 (back on 1.75v too).


Yeah if you bring it back up it should help you if not start off like this

Don't use XMP profile,just run 8-12-8-28 @ 2400Mhz tRFC 100-120 tWCL 7-8,leave everything else on auto,start off at about 1.65v dim and once that is stable then work your way down.Here is a pic of my Ln2 run and i can run these tertiary timings on air and these secondary timings too @ 8-12-8-28 2600 Mhz 32M stable ,always leave that Dram refresh interval at auto to start with,in this Ln2 run of mine its on auto.I think at 2400 Mhz it should be about 9300 i think


----------



## Bullant

That 5200 refresh interval will be making your system unstable good luck anyway if there is anything you need to know if I can help I'll be happy too,you may find if you set it up ok you will be able to run your [email protected] mhz
8-12-8-28 or 9-12-9-28.
There is somethings you could back off in your Tertiary's and secondary's to make it stable but i would start fresh
Oh and I have a gigabyte UD3H and i love it,awesome overclocking board for the price


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*
> 
> what are your settings on this page?


Exactly as that, but 42 multi and PLL overvolt disabled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Try disabling Turbo Boost.


Already is mate.


----------



## JaseUK

Hi,
Was wondering if anyone in here could help me please?

I have the UD5H board but recently have been getting the code 04 on the LED. It used to sit on A0 which I believe is normal.

I am running off the onboard graphics at the moment so don't have any connected graphics cards only a PCI TV card.

The code doesn't seem to be in the manual.

Any ideas?


----------



## Belial

^ Clear your CMOS.
Quote:


> Yeah if you bring it back up it should help you if not start off like this
> 
> Don't use XMP profile,just run 8-12-8-28 @ 2400Mhz tRFC 100-120 tWCL 7-8,leave everything else on auto,start off at about 1.65v dim and once that is stable then work your way down.Here is a pic of my Ln2 run and i can run these tertiary timings on air and these secondary timings too @ 8-12-8-28 2600 Mhz 32M stable ,always leave that Dram refresh interval at auto to start with,in this Ln2 run of mine its on auto.I think at 2400 Mhz it should be about 9300 i think


I'm not using XMP, this ram has no XMP (well it does, but mine doesnt because I think mushkin custom made it for me during an RMA). The XMP of this ram though is 2000mhz 7-10-8-27 1.65v with very very loose secondaries and tertiaries. 2400mhz was just not prime95 stable on 8-11-8-28 or anything, and 2600mhz is extremely prime95 unstable at 9-13-9-33 so I didn't really try hard to get 2600 to work. I think to run 2600 24/7 I'd need to do something like 1.8, 1.85v, and as I understand, that's a bit too high for 24/7 voltage? I mean if max ram temps are 70*C then I'm staying very cool at 50*C as a max.

I actually did run on auto at first, though. I've been working on bringing it down but I've worked so many of the timings differently, like I changed the tRas from 27 to 28, so now all those previous tests arent really worthwhile and I got a lot of changed timings that I'm not sure which one is responsible for the instability.

Hopefully 1.76v turbo llc is enough of a boost up that it'll make this dram ref work but I've heard more than once now that my dram ref is way too tight. If this current run fails 30+ hours, I'll set dram ref to like 7360.


----------



## hpmoon

I thought you all might find this interesting, and in any case, I'd enjoy hearing feedback as you might also audit these conclusions based on your own expertise with this motherboard.

I'm an independent filmmaker who pushes technology to the furthest limits at all times, because I'm grinding through highly compressed full-HD footage while applying numerous layers of GPU-accelerated effects, onto multiple tracks and camera angles inside the Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 workflow. One of the critical ingredients to surviving in that context is disk access speed (complementing CPU power, which is an Ivy Bridge 3770K as indicated in my linked specs) -- and this is one area (in contrast to gaming, which is overrated for system demands) where a RAID 0 array of SSDs actually results in meaningful performance gains.

The dilemma from my UD5H, though, was: I wanted my RAID 0 SSD array (two PNY XLR8's adding up to half a gigabyte) to co-exist with my Vertex 3 SSD boot disk. We only get two Intel SATA-III ports from this motherboard, and those ports are the only ones (to my knowledge) that offer native TRIM, while the Marvell ports do not. Since junk collection (of the kind that supplements any modern SSD's own internal junk collection) is more critical on the boot drive, and almost useless on a mostly read-only drive, I didn't have the option to move my Vertex 3 SSD boot disk over to those Marvell SATA-III ports. In the meantime, I did try out the RAID 0 SSD array on those Marvell SATA-III ports, which are supposed to provide a theoretical headroom of 1.2 GB/s (i.e., 600 MB/s x 2), but I got a stunningly offensive, ridiculous, laughable 350 MB/s or so read rate -- from a RAID 0 SSD array! Those PNY XLR8's are rated at around 500 MB/s read speeds!

Bottom line, I felt that the optimal compromise was this: move the boot SSD onto the Intel SATA-II ports, hitting up against the bottleneck of 300 MB/s (whereas the drive normally performed at around 500 MB/s on the SATA-III port). Then, assign the RAID 0 array to the two native Intel SATA-III ports. No joke, in that configuration, using ATTO Benchmark, I got over 1.2 GB/s read speeds. That's a godsend for constantly pulling multiple HD video source files (many of them over 1 gigabyte in size) into any complex video editing workflow.

I haven't found conclusive proof -- and there's nothing in this entire, long thread about it -- but I suspect that the Marvell SATA-III controller is grabbing (for life) onto a singlular PCI-E x1 lane, leaving way less bandwidth than necessary to live up to even one single 600 MB/s SATA port spec, let alone the aggregate of several SATA-III ports. Does that sound right? And moreover, what stupidass moron would engineer things this way, calling a port SATA-III when it performs sub-SATA-II?

Looking forward to your counter-analysis!


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Marvell SATA-III controller is grabbing (for life) onto a singlular PCI-E x1 lane


That's exactly the case.


----------



## Geezerman

Not my area of expertise for sure, but If one did not need the resources allocated to multiple video cards, could one use a Sata3 PCI-E card and achieve something close to the performance of the Intel Sata3 ports?


----------



## DeXel

Sure just get something that uses X1 2.0 per SATA3 port, or X1 3.0 per 2 SATA3 ports.


----------



## Sin0822

yea marvell isn't that crappy, just can't handle RAID or two very fast SSDs. But a single fast SSD it can do with only minor losses in performance(prob none in what you will notice in real life).


----------



## Belial

bah at higher voltage of 1.76v, turbo llc, the settings failed, fatal error, hardware failure rounding error on the 14th hour on a single worker.

Going to try 1.75v, turbo llc, but loosen dram ref from 5200 to 7360.

rrsr at 4 doesnt work, it doesnt boot. It's one of the few settings I upped a notch from the 1333 mhz cl9 default timings (rrsr, rwdr, trfc, and then i set twl=8 because of what i hear people say about twl=CL).


----------



## sixor

i still don´t know where is that marvell controller everyone talks about??

where is on the ud3h?

i know it sucks, but i just want to know

i know my ud3h has
2 sata3
4 sata2


----------



## DeXel

UD3H doesn't have Marvell 6Gbps SATA ports. However, it has Marvell controlled eSATAs.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> UD3H doesn't have Marvell 6Gbps SATA ports. However, it has Marvell controlled eSATAs.


that solves the mistery then

many times i read some marvell stuff on the manual, but never cared enough

thanks


----------



## dja2k

A little input on a new CPU-MB combo....

I am planning on buying an Intel 3770K and a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD4H. How hard is it to overclock it to about 4.5-4.6 GHZ or so? I have never used Gigabyte motherboards with the 3D bios and I am used to using my Asus Gene Z and doing the quick overclock 4.6 GHZ in the Bios. I don't mine testing for stability and testing different Vcores as long as there is a starting point. Thanks!

dja2k


----------



## mandrix

TRIM works on the Samsung 830 I have on a Marvell port of my UD5H. Or is it in RAID that TRIM is not working for the Marvell ports?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dja2k*
> 
> A little input on a new CPU-MB combo....
> 
> I am planning on buying an Intel 3770K and a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD4H. How hard is it to overclock it to about 4.5-4.6 GHZ or so? I have never used Gigabyte motherboards with the 3D bios and I am used to using my Asus Gene Z and doing the quick overclock 4.6 GHZ in the Bios. I don't mine testing for stability and testing different Vcores as long as there is a starting point. Thanks!
> 
> dja2k


It depends entirely on how good the chip is, but 4.5-4.6ghz should practically be guaranteed (although 4.5 may take as much as 1.35+ on a worse chip). The majority of ivies are 'bad' chips too, it's relatively rare for a chip to do more than 4.6ghz on reasonable voltage. Just make sure to keep temps in line.

If you got a good chip, there's no reason not to push more from the chip, 4.7ghz, etc. I think you really need to delid to go above 4.7ghz though as you'll need above 1.3vcore for that, even on a great chip. If you are okay delidding though, the sky is the limit.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dja2k*
> 
> A little input on a new CPU-MB combo....
> 
> I am planning on buying an Intel 3770K and a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD4H. How hard is it to overclock it to about 4.5-4.6 GHZ or so? I have never used Gigabyte motherboards with the 3D bios and I am used to using my Asus Gene Z and doing the quick overclock 4.6 GHZ in the Bios. I don't mine testing for stability and testing different Vcores as long as there is a starting point. Thanks!
> 
> dja2k


SB and IB are so easy to overclock on any board. It basically always -> up multiplier and voltage. Play with LLC if you want to. Offset overclock is also optional.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> TRIM works on the Samsung 830 I have on a Marvell port of my UD5H. Or is it in RAID that TRIM is not working for the Marvell ports?


Correct, TRIM works on a single SSD for both the Intel and Marvell ports, whereas the recent update to Intel's drivers enables TRIM support on a RAID array.


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geezerman*
> 
> Not my area of expertise for sure, but If one did not need the resources allocated to multiple video cards, could one use a Sata3 PCI-E card and achieve something close to the performance of the Intel Sata3 ports?


Unfortunately, no (based on the motherboard's out there as I understand them). You'll handicap the headroom of even a single GPU as its access to the PCIe x16 lane will throttle down to PCIe x8 in favor of the new PCIe RAID card that's > x1 in order to get reasonable RAID speeds.

I've heard rumors of an ASROCK motherboard that has a so-called "bridge" avoiding this dilemma of stealing PCIe lanes. Sound right? Anything else in the Gigabyte Z77 family that does this too?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> You'll handicap the headroom of even a single GPU as its access to the PCIe x16 lane will throttle down to PCIe x8


Not necessary if you use PCH lanes. Like last PCI-E x4 on UD3H is based on PCH.

The chip that you're referring to is PLX and it's used on G1 Sniper 3 and UP7.


----------



## kesawi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hpmoon*
> 
> Correct, TRIM works on a single SSD for both the Intel and Marvell ports, whereas the recent update to Intel's drivers enables TRIM support on a RAID array.


You also need to have a BIOS which contains the latest Intel ROM for the controller. I believe version F15o contains this.

On my system checking Windows 8 shows TRIM is enabled and is being passed onto the controller, however running Trim Check shows TRIM doesn't appear to be implemented by the controller.


----------



## dja2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> SB and IB are so easy to overclock on any board. It basically always -> up multiplier and voltage. Play with LLC if you want to. Offset overclock is also optional.


Good to know, I usually run with SpeedStep completely disabled and run a constant Vcore and not use Offset. My current 2500k is running 4.6ghz at Bios 2.70v vCore (actual is 2.74v) and has SpeedStep disabled.

dja2k


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> You'll handicap the headroom of even a single GPU as its access to the PCIe x16 lane will throttle down to PCIe x8
> 
> 
> 
> Not necessary if you use PCH lanes. Like last PCI-E x4 on UD3H is based on PCH.
> 
> The chip that you're referring to is PLX and it's used on G1 Sniper 3 and UP7.
Click to expand...

You wrote "not necessary," but did you mean to say that (at least on the UD3H -- and probably on the UD5H) plugging a RAID card into the "last" PCI-e x4 slot will have zero impact on the PCIe x16 slot and its GPU?

And thus why would the PLX chip add anything?


----------



## DeXel

UD5H and UD3H have different lane configuratons.

UD5H uses CPU lanes on all 3 slots, so it will be X8/X4/X4.

UD3H uses PCH lanes for the last X4 slot. So it's X8/X8 and X4 2.0.

So with UD3H a RAID card in that last X4 will have no impact on GPUs, but with UD3H when you use X4, you can't use PCI-E x1 slots because they share lanes.

Here is my post about PLX. Don't want to write it again lol.

And here is how PLX actually communicates with the CPU.


----------



## moshah

Please help, my main BIOS is corrupt so I switched to the backup BIOS to boot my system.

Tried clearing the main BIOS using the jumpers, switch and removing the battery, but to no avail

Is there anything else I can do? (should I start a separate thread or is this thread OK)?


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moshah*
> 
> Please help, my main BIOS is corrupt so I switched to the backup BIOS to boot my system.
> 
> Tried clearing the main BIOS using the jumpers, switch and removing the battery, but to no avail
> 
> Is there anything else I can do? (should I start a separate thread or is this thread OK)?


There is a way to reload the main or backup BIOS as long as one is working. I just don't remember where the info is. Might be in the UP7 or UP5 thread. If I find it I will let you know.


----------



## DeXel

Switch to backup BIOS.
Boot
Press ALT+F10 sometime during post
Confirm that you want to copy BIOS from backup(!) to MAIN(!)


----------



## moshah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Switch to backup BIOS.
> Boot
> Press ALT+F10 sometime during post
> Confirm that you want to copy BIOS from backup(!) to MAIN(!)


I tried pressing ALT+F10 but nothing happens.


----------



## DeXel

http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/4750#post_19194267


----------



## Dhalmel

For the longest while I've had difficulty getting my memory stable at XMP enabled settings.

Just did a 18hr run of P95 blend using 12GB and 10 runs of IBT using all of the available memory at 1600mhz at cas9 speed just to make sure it my cpu at least was stable.

I am using the latest available bios from the gigabyte site.
I am using the same ram in my signature.
CPU is clocked at 4.5GHz.
Here are my settings, any suggestions?


----------



## Belial

Okay so I try to do 5ghz, I'm pretty confident my chip can do it on less than 1.5v but maybe up to 1.55v, that's okay for me. (people run 1.6v with no issues, i havent heard a single issue of degradation on ivy so im okay with slightly over 1.5 if it's necessary).

Anyways, I go into bios, set it to Normal -> Auto DVID. I booted up, saw 1.62v, noped my computer off.

I try to set like -.1v in the offset DVID value, but it doesn't boot. No negative value will boot. But I can run like prime95 on [email protected] for a while at least, hyper 32m and stuff.

Am I missing something here? How do I do offset voltage here? I know [email protected] is 24 hour stable, so instead of testing 5ghz at a manual voltage I'm just going to shoot for offset voltage right away.


----------



## CurtTerror

Hi guys,

A while back I was looking at which motherboard I'd like to get and I was asking questions. IF I may i had a few for you owners....

Does the ud5h suffer from dpc latency issues?

Does the ud5h perform well in all tasks, including the on board and third party controllers? I know that most z77 boards have third party conrtollers, but do all of them suffer issues ?

Will the ud5h be good for some slight video editing, gaming, general tasks etc... I dont want a " gaming board "

and I have about 3 hard drives and 2 ssds so wil I be forced to sacrifice performance on these hard drives and ssds because of the controllers on this board?

Thanks heaps guys, many things to the person that can answer! Cheers


----------



## The Salesman

Hey guys, last night I turned off my pc and this morning 4 of my USB 3 ports on the back are not working. I have only 2 working for my mouse and keyboard, and the front ports connected to the case. I've updated to the latest BIOS, installed the newest drivers but all of my devices are still not recognizable. One of the two usb drivers didn't install though , it's the VIA USB driver. I got an error message which was I don't have the proper hardware or something like hardware not detected. Any ideas what could have caused that?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Does the ud5h perform well in all tasks, including the on board and third party controllers? I know that most z77 boards have third party conrtollers, but do all of them suffer issues ?


Z77 natively only has 2 sata 6b/s ports and i think only so many usb 3.0, so they all have third party controllers if they have any more than 2 sata 6gb/s ports. I wouldn't say there are any issues though, but marvell ports are known to not be as fast as the native intel ports. who cares though, sata 3gb/s is sufficient.
Quote:


> Will the ud5h be good for some slight video editing, gaming, general tasks etc... I dont want a " gaming board "


The board isn't really any different for those kinds of things. What makes a board is 99% the VRM, which is basically overclocking. UD5H is more than enough for overclocking, really the ud3h is all you should need. UD5H is if you need more ports than what the ud3h and similar mid-range boards have (more than 6 sata, more usb 3.0, etc). That and pci express bandwidth for multiple cards.
Quote:


> and I have about 3 hard drives and 2 ssds so wil I be forced to sacrifice performance on these hard drives and ssds because of the controllers on this board?


Are they all sata 6gb/s? If they are all sata 6gb/s and you actually care, then the ud3h would be fine, just one of the hdd's you'd put on 3gb/s. I mean you aren't going to tell the difference in 6gb/s and 3gb/s. It's up to you though, if you really want sata 6gb/s on all of them then get the ud5h, or a better/higher board with more ports.


----------



## Belial

Is there anything wrong with maxing out the switching frequencies? I maxed them out and I never see my VRM temps go above 50*C (both in hwinfo and them 3 thermal diodes i stuck in the cpu-vrm). So why not right?


----------



## Sin0822

mp there isn't a problem with it, anything under 400khz is deemed normal speed. 500-800khz is considered fast, and 800-1000khz(1mhz) is considered extremely fast for the regulators you find on modern motherboards. The UD5H uses a doubler, so the max switching frequency is 1/2 of the max of the PWM, so its 600khz real, however you can't even set that high b/c GB doesn't allow it to go higher, b/c it really doesn't help much at all like it used too. Optimal switching frequency is a mix of the type of MOSFETs and inductors, so for every board its different. Usually if you see very big inductors they don't really need high switching frequencies, but a lot of times with smaller inductors(for example volterra CPL, they like higher switching frequencies) however there are also many more variables involved.

What is interesting about these IR PWMs is that when i talked to them at computex last year, the head engineer in TW for IR said that the IR3563A can do 2mhz but they don't advertise it, i thought that was pretty cool.

also if your main BIOS is corrupt, just let it boot and let dual BIOS kick in, if it doesn't then switch to your backup and reflash the main.


----------



## SDBolts619

Sign me up for the club.

And hopefully someone can give me a positive answer for my one issue with my Z77X-UD5H.

I have a Logitech G15 v1 keyboard. I can't get into BIOS with it. I've tried USB 2.0 ports, USB 3.0 ports, no love. The only way I can get into BIOS is to plug in a generic Kensington keyboard and access it with that. Not the end of the world, but it's annoying.

Hardware specs are in my rig in my sig.

Other possibly pertinent info:


BIOS is F15q - But I went back to F14 and still had the same issue.
Logitech drivers are the most current - 8.40.43
Windows updates are totally current as are all driver updates from Gigabyte.
Any ideas for me?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moshah*
> 
> I tried pressing ALT+F10 but nothing happens.


It's CTRL + F10 to copy backup to main
ALT + F10 to copy main to backup

Usually I hold down whichever key and spam the hell out of the F10 while booting. Sometimes it takes a few tries, but you will know if it happens because it give you a message onscreen.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> mp there isn't a problem with it, anything under 400khz is deemed normal speed. 500-800khz is considered fast, and 800-1000khz(1mhz) is considered extremely fast for the regulators you find on modern motherboards. The UD5H uses a doubler, so the max switching frequency is 1/2 of the max of the PWM, so its 600khz real, however you can't even set that high b/c GB doesn't allow it to go higher, b/c it really doesn't help much at all like it used too. Optimal switching frequency is a mix of the type of MOSFETs and inductors, so for every board its different. Usually if you see very big inductors they don't really need high switching frequencies, but a lot of times with smaller inductors(for example volterra CPL, they like higher switching frequencies) however there are also many more variables involved.


okay i just run them all at max, why not.
Quote:


> I have a Logitech G15 v1 keyboard. I can't get into BIOS with it. I've tried USB 2.0 ports, USB 3.0 ports, no love. The only way I can get into BIOS is to plug in a generic Kensington keyboard and access it with that. Not the end of the world, but it's annoying.


My steelseries kinzu doesn't work in the bios, but some wireless lenovo mouse works fine. Not that I'll ever use a mouse in bios, but just a similar issue. I really wish the ud5h has a ps/2 port like the ud3h. I only bought the ud5h because it was cheaper than the ud3h ever was, but frankly I'd rather have a ud3h just because of the ps/2 port since it's more than powerful enough anyways, and i could care less about the benefits of the ud5h over the ud3h (more sata, more usb, more pci, i guess vrm is important but the ud3h already has an awesome one). ps2 is superior to usb (ps2 sends values, whereas usb is always polling and checking to see if keyboard is being used, which sucks up way more cpu usage). not that any of this even matters but it would also prevent the issue of a keyboard not working in bios...

I'm still confused on how to do offset voltage with the ud5h. Somehow I played around and Normal +.3v gives me 1.52v (same as dmm) i have no idea how I got 1.62v with auto and no offset or maybe normal with no offset, not sure what i did exactly there i just know i didnt mess with any voltage. And apparently you should not use Turbo LLC when using offset voltage?

I'm trying to test for 24 hours prime95 stable with 5ghz around 1.45-1.55v for a 24/7 overclock.

And I'm also curious about lowering PLL voltage, what do you guys set your PLL to, how do you test to make sure your PLL is stable (stability test like normal or is it something to do with idle or sleep stability?)... I mean I just set it to 1.6 PLL but then I failed that 5ghz run after 2 hours, not sure if it was because of the PLL or cpu voltage.


----------



## Sin0822

for the keyboard in the UEFi thing, some keyboard especially logitec have some issues b/c of the way the polling works. Try one of the K betas, some of them use different polling method so that logitec works.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Sign me up for the club.
> 
> And hopefully someone can give me a positive answer for my one issue with my Z77X-UD5H.
> 
> I have a Logitech G15 v1 keyboard. I can't get into BIOS with it. I've tried USB 2.0 ports, USB 3.0 ports, no love. The only way I can get into BIOS is to plug in a generic Kensington keyboard and access it with that. Not the end of the world, but it's annoying.
> 
> Hardware specs are in my rig in my sig.
> 
> Other possibly pertinent info:
> 
> 
> BIOS is F15q - But I went back to F14 and still had the same issue.
> Logitech drivers are the most current - 8.40.43
> Windows updates are totally current as are all driver updates from Gigabyte.
> Any ideas for me?


i am using logitech keyboard and mouse - usb keyboard and wireless mouse - both work fine using F14

double check in the bios - maybe some setting is off - etc, - sometimes its right there and you just miss it - happened to me with the 3.0 ports - after a few different usb flash drives - i double checked in the bios - read the manual again - and it was right in front of me - i just had to change the settings and was fine ever since - with the usb 3.0

it maybe something similar for your keyboard -


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Does the ud5h perform well in all tasks, including the on board and third party controllers? I know that most z77 boards have third party conrtollers, but do all of them suffer issues ?
> 
> 
> 
> Z77 natively only has 2 sata 6b/s ports and i think only so many usb 3.0, so they all have third party controllers if they have any more than 2 sata 6gb/s ports. I wouldn't say there are any issues though, but marvell ports are known to not be as fast as the native intel ports. who cares though, sata 3gb/s is sufficient.
Click to expand...

Scroll up a few posts. It's a bit more complicated.


----------



## slippyjim

Hiya,

For overclocking a 3570K is there any major difference in performance between a
Z77M-D3H,
Z77-DS3H,
Z77-D3H and
Z77X-UD3H?

I want to achieve a decent overclock but I'm not looking for the absolute best overclock.

I'm quite happy with onboard graphics as long as I can use 2 monitors which I believe the Z77 chipset supports, so am I just wasting money on the ATX boards?

Thanks


----------



## Belial

^ ds3h is a low end board, you can't adjust voltage or have access to many overclock options on it. Avoid.

Z77*X*-UD3H is the only board you listed that has SLI (d3h has crossfire though, for example) and is the 'best' of those boards. It has a better VRM than any of them but the d3h should have a good enough vrm for air overclocks and extreme voltages like up to 1.6. it, unlike the others boards, also has multimeter contact points, debug led, power and reset and cmos buttons.

d3h is a great board, i think probably the best value board to get right now if you dont live by microcenter, at most places.

The Z77*M*-D3H is micro-atx, and like almost every micro-atx version of a board, it is just the same board, same features, but worse VRM, which basically means it's just a worse board since VRM is 99% what makes a motherboard. It also doesn't have cpu voltage control, or any voltage controls besides ram voltage, so it's nothing like the d3h at all.

when you say you want a decent overclock but not the best overclock, im not sure what you mean. I dont think ive ever seen a board that was limiting of the 'best' overclocks also not limit a decent overclock. You really need a half decent VRM to push past 1.3v, which is required to do any decent overclock. Maybe the extreme4 is a board that you can't do 'best' overclocks on but still can do good ones on. I mean what you say doesnt make much sense, you get a good board or you don't. I understand that you dont need to spend much money but there are plenty of good boards for cheap, the asus p8z77-v le, the biostar boards, the d3h.


----------



## moshah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> It's CTRL + F10 to copy backup to main
> ALT + F10 to copy main to backup
> 
> Usually I hold down whichever key and spam the hell out of the F10 while booting. Sometimes it takes a few tries, but you will know if it happens because it give you a message onscreen.


Thanks for the tip spamming the F10 helped. Both main and backup are now working fine.


----------



## Belial

so is anyone else having trouble with this bios? I just have to fight it, every time I put in bios settings, it wont take. I have to save what i want as a profile, and then cmos reset, and then apply the profile. Even then it doesn't always stick.

i hate this new bios. hate it. I can't ever tell if someone is unstable or if I'm just fighting the bios, turns out a lot of stuff I wrote down as 'unstable' or 'unbootable' was just this stupid bios.


----------



## slippyjim

Thanks for the info.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ^ when you say you want a decent overclock but not the best overclock,


What I meant was I am not bothered about spending 300€ on a mobo that potentially may get a few extra MHz

I'll have a look at the d3h as that was only 10€ more than the micro ATX one.


----------



## devilpriest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyjim*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> What I meant was I am not bothered about spending 300€ on a mobo that potentially may get a few extra MHz
> 
> I'll have a look at the d3h as that was only 10€ more than the micro ATX one.


I own a z77-d3h and I can tell you it's a pretty good mobo. Overclocking is easy and it has a lot of nice features and good connectivity ports. You should go for it. I got an i5-3570k to go to 4.6GHz and an i7-3770K to go 4.7GHz on it without any problems. It will all depend on the CPU, 'cause you might a great chip that can do 5GHz standing on its head, or you might get a bad chip that barely reaches 4.4GHz.


----------



## DeXel

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128543

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128546

Unless you find Z77-D3H much cheaper, Z77X-D3H makes more sense.


----------



## slippyjim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Unless you find Z77-D3H much cheaper, Z77X-D3H makes more sense.


Where I live I cant get the z77x-d3h only the z77-d3h or z77x-ud3h for an extra 30€, so think I will go with the z77-d3h as noone seems to have a bad word to say about it

Thanks everyone


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> so is anyone else having trouble with this bios? I just have to fight it, every time I put in bios settings, it wont take. I have to save what i want as a profile, and then cmos reset, and then apply the profile. Even then it doesn't always stick.
> 
> i hate this new bios. hate it. I can't ever tell if someone is unstable or if I'm just fighting the bios, turns out a lot of stuff I wrote down as 'unstable' or 'unbootable' was just this stupid bios.


flash a new UEFI,. or just use the older one that everyone else uses. If you have issues with settings not sticking, best thing to always do is flash, then on first boot you should load optimized defaults and then reboot.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moshah*
> 
> Thanks for the tip spamming the F10 helped. Both main and backup are now working fine.


Why you didn't use BIOS switch?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> so is anyone else having trouble with this bios? I just have to fight it, every time I put in bios settings, it wont take. I have to save what i want as a profile, and then cmos reset, and then apply the profile. Even then it doesn't always stick.
> 
> i hate this new bios. hate it. I can't ever tell if someone is unstable or if I'm just fighting the bios, turns out a lot of stuff I wrote down as 'unstable' or 'unbootable' was just this stupid bios.
> 
> 
> 
> flash a new UEFI,. or just use the older one that everyone else uses. If you have issues with settings not sticking, best thing to always do is flash, then on first boot you should load optimized defaults and then reboot.
Click to expand...

i have a hard time following what you said here. if i have issues with settings not working, best thing to do is flash a new bios? and then on first boot use the defaults, then reboot? i dont understand. you say flash, what does that mean! reflash the f15q bios and hope the issue fixes itself basically?

isnt everyone else using f15q?

On a side note, what LLC do I use with offset overclocking (5ghz~1.5-1.55v)? I hear people say I should use a low llc if using offset? I find it a bit confusing, your guide doesn't really cover it.


----------



## stasio

F15r is better.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> flash a new UEFI,. or just use the older one that everyone else uses. If you have issues with settings not sticking, best thing to always do is flash, then on first boot you should load optimized defaults and then reboot.


Yeah. Every now and then I have to reflash the bios or the overclock settings don't stick. I guess I'm just used to it.
Saved profiles/cmos reset/etc just don't work. Doesn't particulary matter which bios, although I've been using F15r lately on both rigs. Strangely enough this usually just happens with one of my UD5H, but it's the one I use all the time and is loaded with drives, programs etc.

I load optimized defaults, reflash the bios, and on the reboot I set up everything manually again including OC and all is good.


----------



## GOTFrog

Any one knows if the cpu fan header can suppport both d14 fans and control the speed of them even if they are 3 pin fans. My fan controller decided to die well it only provides low speed no more adjustment.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyjim*
> 
> Where I live I cant get the z77x-d3h only the z77-d3h or z77x-ud3h for an extra 30€, so think I will go with the z77-d3h as noone seems to have a bad word to say about it
> 
> Thanks everyone


z77x are the ones you can change vcore

z77 not

if you don´t need to oc, get the cheapo one z77

if you are going to oc, get z77x


----------



## DeXel

You can adjust voltage on Z77 boards, just not all of them. I can say for sure that vcore adjustments are available on Z77-D3H, and Z77-HD4.


----------



## Belial

Okay I just flash f15r bios then. Hopefully the very, very exact timings I set on my ram and tested for 24 hour stability (i literally have every single timing as tight as possible, down to secondary and tertiary, and 24 hour tested) won't be wacked out or unstable when i use a different bios.
Quote:


> Any one knows if the cpu fan header can suppport both d14 fans and control the speed of them even if they are 3 pin fans. My fan controller decided to die well it only provides low speed no more adjustment.


Your NH-D14 should have come with a fan splitter so you can control both of them out of one header. If you don't have one, just email Noctua and they'll provide you one for free, even if you bought your nh-d14 used or something. I just showed them my ebay invoice and they sent me it. Be sure to ask for 3rd fan kit, mounts, etc, whatever you need, as they mail it from austria so better get it all in one package instead of asking for something every other month.

It should have no problem controlling 3 pin fans on a splitter though. I've got my nh-d14 4 pin fans on splitter on the cpu fan header, but you can change it from pwm to 3pin.
Quote:


> http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2256688


Z77-D3H has manual and offset voltage controls. It's a full featured board, just missing SLI is all. I would have bought it if it was cheaper than the ud3h or ud5h or z77x-d3h. Just avoid the micro-atx boards and ds3h.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> F15r is better.


There is no f15r bios :X

There's F15q, the newest beta bios, that im using, that has additional ram timings and never sticks with the settings I put in bios, and there's f15o, which is the older beta bios. f14 is the latest stable bios.


----------



## Belial

and im still confused on offset voltage control on z77x-ud5h. so for 5ghz and ~1.5v, i set like normal, reboot, then about +.3v... but what do i set LLC too? Since i read somewhere that you should have a lower llc during offset/


----------



## DeXel

F15r


----------



## roudabout6

How long does Gigabyte take to repair a motherboard. It has been 3 weeks


----------



## scribby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CurtTerror*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> A while back I was looking at which motherboard I'd like to get and I was asking questions. IF I may i had a few for you owners....
> 
> Does the ud5h suffer from dpc latency issues?
> 
> Does the ud5h perform well in all tasks, including the on board and third party controllers? I know that most z77 boards have third party conrtollers, but do all of them suffer issues ?
> 
> Will the ud5h be good for some slight video editing, gaming, general tasks etc... I dont want a " gaming board "
> 
> and I have about 3 hard drives and 2 ssds so wil I be forced to sacrifice performance on these hard drives and ssds because of the controllers on this board?
> 
> Thanks heaps guys, many things to the person that can answer! Cheers


In response to your dpc latency question, I have had very good results with my ud5h board. Analyzing with DPC Latency Checker, the latency consistently remains very low, with no big spikes. It'll usually hover around 60 to 100 µs, spiking very rarely to maybe around 200 µs max, but never much beyond that. I'm using a firewire external audio recording interface with Windows 7, and I've had no latency issues at all while recording audio. At one point, I was getting big latency spikes every now and then, but after some investigation I discovered it was being caused by Malwarebytes' active antivirus module. Once I deactivated Malwarebytes active protection, the problem disappeared.

So yeah, in my experience the ud5h has been great in regards to dpc latency. Something to look out for though, if you're running Windows 8, DPC Latency Checker will show very high latencies, no matter which board you're using. Apparently, the program isn't optimized yet for Windows 8. So, if you're testing latency on Windows 8 and your results are off the chart bad, it's probably a false reading by DPC Latency Checker.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> There is no f15r bios :X
> 
> There's F15q, the newest beta bios, that im using, that has additional ram timings and never sticks with the settings I put in bios, and there's f15o, which is the older beta bios. f14 is the latest stable bios.











There is also F15 BIOS.
Thanks DeXel for posting link to F15r .


----------



## Belial

why are these bioses not on the official website? I put in f15r, seems to take values I put in and solved the issue.
[email protected]+.25voffset=1.452v, already into a few hours of p95


----------



## Adasen

Hi guys. I just brought my UD3H, should be with me tomorrow. I hope I've made a good choice .

Just quickly, can anyone tell me what Gigabyte has done different for the rev1.1 from the rev1.0? I can't figure out what it is they've revised.


----------



## DeXel

Ask Gigabyte lol. F15r works great for me. Q and O were terrible for me, and Gigabyte has chosen to post them on the website lol.

Adasen, UD3H rev 1.1 just got an updated Atheros NIC.


----------



## Adasen

Ahh great, thanks DeXel


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roudabout6*
> 
> How long does Gigabyte take to repair a motherboard. It has been 3 weeks


Usually < two weeks to my door after they get it. Might want to check in with them, although they do notify you when it ships and provide a tracking number for UPS.
I've sent boards to them twice for repairs and it's been a no-hassle experience for me. Very pleased with their RMA.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> why are these bioses not on the official website? I put in f15r, seems to take values I put in and solved the issue.
> [email protected]+.25voffset=1.452v, already into a few hours of p95


hi sounds great - where did you get the F15r ? also would you be willing to share some of your settings with me ?

i just so happen to get running good with 4.9 at 1.45 v - no offsets - or power savings - i was never able to get those working right for me even on 4.7 @ 1.35v

i wanted to see if i could have gotten 5ghz - i had to up the vcore to 1.5v - and it booted fine - i could use it - but when i go to use Nero to convert some video files - Nero crashes - NOT Windows etc,

i upped my memory to 1.6v from 1.55v i had before - didnt make a difference - i didnt change anything else - i feel it needs a little fine tuning now to get it working but unsure what to fine tune at this point which can make a difference

i went back to 4.9 at 1.45v and 1.55v for Ram and rerun nero with the same video files and it worked fine -

i am using F14 - UD5H and 3770K - Sniper Ram 16 gig kit at profile one XMP - 1600 -- would you share your screen shots ? if you dont mind

thanks -


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> F15r


----------



## hpmoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *roudabout6*
> 
> How long does Gigabyte take to repair a motherboard. It has been 3 weeks
> 
> 
> 
> Usually < two weeks to my door after they get it. Might want to check in with them, although they do notify you when it ships and provide a tracking number for UPS.
> I've sent boards to them twice for repairs and it's been a no-hassle experience for me. Very pleased with their RMA.
Click to expand...

Maybe I was just extra special nice (or sounding extra-specially urgent), but on two occasions I've gotten an advance replacement.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*


thanks - any improvement over the F14 - what is suppose to be different on this one ?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quick question on the two highlighted sensors. 1) where are they located on the board? 2) What is PCH?


----------



## Belial

What is Fast Boot? (Windows 7 user here). I can't really find anything on it. I know windows 8 has fast boot stuff but was curious if it had any impact on windows 7. GTX 460, z77x-ud5h, i7-3770k, f15r.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> What is Fast Boot? (Windows 7 user here). I can't really find anything on it. I know windows 8 has fast boot stuff but was curious if it had any impact on windows 7. GTX 460, z77x-ud5h, i7-3770k, f15r.


It disables some BIOS power-on tests to speed up the boot, or at least that's how it works on my X58 mobo.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Guys i have a little question to a problem that happened yesterday.

My front 2 USB3 Ports suddenly stopped working.

I updated the BIOS and i installed the latest USB3 Intel drivers.

I am not sure as to what to try next so any suggestions would be grateful.


----------



## 8bitG33k

These boards are notorious for having issues with USB.

The same thing happened to me twice, the first time out of the blue. I had to reinstall Windows to solve the problem.

The 2nd time when I updated the BIOS, from F19h to F19j on my UD3H. The only way to solve it was to flash back to the previous BIOS version.


----------



## Krysaenaar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krysaenaar*
> 
> Guys i have a little question to a problem that happened yesterday.
> 
> My front 2 USB3 Ports suddenly stopped working.
> 
> I updated the BIOS and i installed the latest USB3 Intel drivers.
> 
> I am not sure as to what to try next so any suggestions would be grateful.


Ok so i did some troubleshooting.

I moved the Case front header plug from F_USB30_3 to F_USB30_2

And now my two pen drives are working on the front ports.

Hope it helps someone.

I will contact Giga about it


----------



## SDBolts619

So, anyone have any changelog or an idea what's different from F15q to F15r?


----------



## DeXel

http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/5020#post_19397681


----------



## SDBolts619

On a different subject...

I've got a RV02 case and have the various case fans hooked up to the system headers around my motherboard. Since I installed my H220, I enabled PWM control for the CPU fan, but have found that my center bottom case fan isn't running correctly - it should run at 700rpm on low speed and 1200 on high speed. Instead, it's running 700rpm on high speed and shuts off completely if I flip the switch to low. Any ideas?

I'm guessing that I can just redo the cabling and send all the case fans to the PWM splitter for the H220, but I'm not enthused to redo the cabling again after all the time I've put into it recently...


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/official-gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/5020#post_19397681


Thanks DeXel. No USB changes, but maybe I'll try it out to see if my G15 keyboard can get into BIOS with F15r.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Quick question on the two highlighted sensors. 1) where are they located on the board? 2) What is PCH?


PCH = Platform Controller Hub aka. its the chipset, instead of being called the southbridge its called the PCH.


----------



## rayweil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> These boards are notorious for having issues with USB.
> 
> The same thing happened to me twice, the first time out of the blue. I had to reinstall Windows to solve the problem.
> 
> The 2nd time when I updated the BIOS, from F19h to F19j on my UD3H. The only way to solve it was to flash back to the previous BIOS version.


Same happened to me many times with f17 BIOS on version 1.0 of the UD3H. seems to happen with the top 4 USB 3.0 ports (ie not the 2 just above the audio inputs, think these 2 use the Intel chipset). Most times it would happen out of the blue after running the system for a few hours. Am trying out the beta 19e BIOS ATM. Hope this doesn't happen again.


----------



## homestyle

I've encountered a strange phenomenon on my ud3h board. I attached two 120mm fans on my mobo fan headers.

I checked my voltages with a multi meter and all readouts decreased by .3-.5 volts.

Is this normal?


----------



## melodystyle2003

Hello,

I am facing a awkward problem and need your advise:
Scenario: pc is at idle state and screen turns off -> cpu usage climbs up to 80% constantly.
Mouse movement ot key press turns screen on and cpu goes at idle clocks.

Using windows 8 64bit and F18 bios. Motherboard is rev 1.1. Pc specs as in my sig (using HD4000 igpu).
Has test all power plans, and have disable usb sleep, hdd sleep with some combinations but same behaviour.
CPU is o/c @ 4.5 just by adding +0.06 offset. LLC and voltage regulators are AUTO.
Any suggestions are more than welcome!


----------



## expresso

double check your power options settings in the bios and also check it in Windows -

i usually keep it on High performance and turn everything off so nothing goes to sleep or turns off the monitor or hard drive etc,

its in the control panel - power options - also i had problems with Fast Start - so i turned that off also


----------



## Belial

F15r beta bios, z77x-udh5 1.1

My board has an 03 debug code. There's nothing wrong, but doesn't it usually say a0 when everything is normal?

I'll keep track, I just noticed it. I mean nothing seems wrong, and this overclock has been tested for over 35 hours of p95 (i just noticed the code, for all i know it's been there for a while).


----------



## cab2

*VIA VL810* USB 3.0 hubs are broken huh? OS fails to detect them -- intermittently. VIA has firmware update, does it fix the problem? Firmware package is Windows-only? ***, I'm running Linux on this machine.


----------



## Sin0822

Yea your hub might be dead, there is always the possibility of a chip dieing or being defected, probably 1/10000 are defected and GB sold almost 20 million boards in 2012.
You know whats funny?

You know that I didn't hear of all these issues with the VLi hub until they used the Intel USB 3.0 with it. You think maybe its a new hub and not used before, however it was used on two different brand Z68/P67 boards. The Maximus 4 Extreme used them as did the Z68X-UD7(Also P67A-UD7 and Z68X-UD7-B3). Infact on the UD7 I think all the USb 3.0 ports went through the hubs, and well no one complained. Both boards used NEC controllers. It almost makes you think its an issue with the Intel USb 3.0. I mean look at Z87, already they found an issue with USB 3.0 resuming from sleep and requiring a new Z87 revision to fix it, how does Z77 get away without any issues? or is it just they are all blamed on stuff.

Intel's buses are the fastest, we all know that, it is because they are directly routed to the PCH and don't have to be converted to PCI-E bus first, however they aren't the best in design. I mean remember the SATA issue with P67? Now we have USB with Z87. I mean Intel doesn't even support XP or Vista with their USb 3.0. Also Intel doesn't always follow the specified guidelines, I remember a PCISIG rep i met at IDF, I asked about why BCLk and the PLX bridge didn't get along. He said that there are issues with manufacturers not following PCISIG specs for 3.0, for instance he said the PLX bridge doesn't follow it, Intel PCI-E controller doesn't follow it, and ATI series doesn't follow it. Supposedly they just adhere to the spec enough to pass compatibility and that is it. That type of thing is prob the same with USB 3.0, and they send out updated drivers and firmware to fix it. I am sure that the VLI hub and the NEC USB 3.0 controller worked together well for some reason(VLI is owned by VIA and NEC by Renesas)

*The Debug code will change if you resume from sleep or hibernation. It doesn't matter if it says A0 or AE or not!*


----------



## cab2

The Intel USB3 header works fine. The VIA VL810 USB 3.0 hubs worked at first, they were fast and bootable, but are not detecting now. Does VIA have a firmware update that we update via DOS-bootable flash drive?


----------



## Belial

edit i dont care (bios setting questions on fast boot, no difference not worth not being able to get into bios)


----------



## Kiros

I'm trying to figure out why my voltages are dropping when I do prime95. I can set my vcore to 1.400v and right when I initiate Prime95 it drops to like 1.368v...causing BSOD with 000xx0000124 (need to increase voltage) and it has enough voltage, just need to make it stick to the voltage I set it to.


----------



## DeXel

That's called Vdroop. Use LLC to fight it.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/52/97190065.jpg/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## DeanW75234

Anyone had any experiences with the GA-Z77X-UP7?

I am thinking of building my new system off this board, but haven't seen very many reviews on it, anywhere. I hear it is a kicka** board, but still haven't seen much about user experience with it.

My plan is as follows:

Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7 Motherboard;
Intel i7-3770K CPU;
COOLER MASTER V10 Hybrid CPU Cooler - only until I get my Liquid System set-up;
G.SKILL Trident X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200);
GIGABYTE GV-N680OC-4GD GeForce GTX 680 4GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 SLI either 2 or 3 of these cards;
OCZ Vector Series 256GB SATA III MLC X2;
Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" HDD X4;
CM Silent Pro Gold Series 1200W ATX / EPS SLI Ready 80 PLUS GOLD PSU;
CM HAF X Blue Edition RC-942-KKN3 Case (adding additional top 200mm Fan, and 120mm fan to cool GPU's) Case has 230mm Front Fan (intake), 200mm Side fan (intake), Rear 140mm (exhaust) and Top 200mm(exhaust);
Viewsonic 23" LED Monitors - (1 is touchscreen) (2 are 3D Capable) X3;
ASUS Black SATA Blu-ray Burner BW-12B1ST;
RAZER Naga Hex Wraith Red Edition 11 Buttons USB Wired Laser 5600 dpi Gaming Mouse;
RAZER Blackwidow Ultimate 2013 Black USB Wired Elite Mechanical Gaming Keyboard;
RAZER Vespula Dual Sided Gaming Mouse Mat;
Windows 8 64bit Pro

This will be a dual use system for gaming and Photo enhancement/Website building.

I have plans for additional gaming hardware, but so far costs including my basic software is pushing $8300. So I have to wait for a while to add the liquid cooling and gaming hardware.
Still need to get printers (laser and inkjets - including large format). Also have to buy a new camera body ($1500). So yes, my plans are big, I think will be well worth it.

Liquid cooling - did a little pricing last night and just running a 420 top mount radiator, 3 x 140mm fans, GPU blocks, ram cooling blocks, CPU block and pump reservoir - it was right at $1400.

So tell me guys, is this overkill or am I on the right track?


----------



## DeXel

It's overkill on so many levels IMHO, and I'm not even sure you want to spend that much for LGA1155 system which will be absolute in a few mounts with LGA1150 release. You can recalculate your budget in a way to get 3930K + Asus RIVE build for pretty much the same money. You also mention you won't have enough for "gaming hardware", but you've mentioned GTX680s and lots of Razer peripherals, so I am not sure what else you actually need to run games... So it's really up to you.

Anyway here is UP7 club.

A detailed review, and a guide.

What would I personally do if I had the budget like yours is 3630K+RIVE, GTX670/680 SLI. NZXT Switch 810 is a much better choice for water cooling over HAF X. Corsair 900D is coming soon, but it's a much pricier case. Cooler Master's Silent Pro series are good, but there are definitely better PSUs which might cost the same. Also you won't need 1200W unless you go all the way to 4-way SLI either.

Other stuff is entirely personal preference. Open a new thread in Intel general for help with an entire build, or a component specific with help with specific components.


----------



## alter ego 5150

hi guys, i need help with my new rig.
i have a gigabyte ga z77x ud3h motherboard, my problem is my motherboard does not detect my hard disc drive and my dvd drive. motherboard codes shows A6, if i try to format my drive using usb flash drive the bios will detect the usb drive but when i got to the drive selection in which to format i does not show any drive.
i have tried changing sata cables, power supply, changing hard disc still no luck, my motherboard would not detect my hard disk.
i have tried updating the bios to f18 still no luck again.

can anyone help me please.....
i have contacted gigabyte support but they tell me to just change sata cables, psu. etc......
i have tried changing bios settings, resetting bios, loading optimized defaults nothing happened.

please help me guys.
thanks a lot


----------



## slippyjim

doesnt matter, Im a muppet


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> The Intel USB3 header works fine. The VIA VL810 USB 3.0 hubs worked at first, they were fast and bootable, but are not detecting now. Does VIA have a firmware update that we update via DOS-bootable flash drive?


yea i know what you mean, i think it might be a BIOS thing, can you flash back to another BIOS? They would have a firmware update, it would be in a BIOS./

Just because a BETA comes out, doesn't mean you have to update to it.


----------



## DeanW75234

Thanks for the recommendations DeXeL, but I see no reason to go with all the new bells and whistles with the 1150 format. The shear costs of waiting and then paying top-dollar for everything is out of the question. I mean, I'm already looking at a ton of greenbacks to do this build and with the way Intel and the hardware manufacturers are in their pricing structure, it will be almost 2 years before I could afford to get into the LGA 1150 format CPU and hardware.

Now, for the other recommendations on the case and other items, I'll look into those things. The gaming hardware I'm talking about, are the flight controls and other items required to do Flight Simulations. No, I'm not a multilevel gamer. I prefer the things that take skills. Multilevel gaming is not a challenge for me. I like things that will utilizes the nugget instead of how fast I can hit a button to kill some object. I prefer having to make calculated maneuvers and knowing that if I mess up, I can start over and know that it won't take forever to get back to that level. But who's counting, right?

And like I said, this will be a dual purpose unit.
1) Gaming for pleasure, and
2) for Photo Editing and Website building.

So, yes I plan on using a 4-way SLI eventually, I just have to wait every couple of months to buy the pieces. The Hard Drives and SSD's are there for both storage and speed. So the higher rated PSU and other items are required.

I'm still undecided on the actual Video cards I'll use. Whatever I can find that can be watercooled will be what I actually buy. SO many cooler manufacturers don't offer that many blocks for full coverage usage. I may end up with EVGA's or Zotac, who knows for sure.

Again, thanks for the recommendations.

DeanW75234


----------



## DeXel

Unless you live somewhere other than the USA, LGA1150 CPUs and boards will replace LGA1155 price segments. You'll be able to build for the same money a better system. It's just the waiting.

UP7 is an enthusiast grade board. You can save a quite a bit with G1 Sniper 3, and get more gamer related features. It has worse VRM, but it's a very capable board.

I just wouldn't pay more than $300 for a Z77 board.


----------



## roudabout6

I finally got my motherboard back from rma and it turns out when that when my motherboard went it took out my boot drive and my video card. Does anyone know if gigabyte replaces components that one of their products broke. I really do not want to spend $400 I do not have to get it back to where it was a month ago


----------



## eBombzor

Can my mobo overclock a 3350P to 3.7Ghz on all cores?

Does Windows 8 cover ALL USB 3.0 drivers or just the Intel ports? I have an Intel and a Etron controller.


----------



## kpo6969

Deleted


----------



## expresso

Would anyone know if i would be able to use a Video Card which has a external power connector - but would i be able to use it with out connecting the external power ?

i have the UD5H board - would it work ? i am debating on getting a video card - i am not gaming - it would be to help with using Nero video encoding and DVD Fab - looking to use Cuda Cores from Nvidia -

i currently dont have a card in my system - just the 3770K chip and i have the GPU at 1600 - up from the stock 1150 - in the bios

i am curious if a decent video card would make a improvement - i was looking at the GT640 cards because of no external power on them -

so i can just use the board and thats it - but then i though what if i get a higher card with a external power connector and just not use it -

would the board give enough power to the Card this way ? or would i have to use the external power on the card - i figure if it works fine with the board power i can leave it -

my PSU should be fine - its 750TX i think from Corsair - i just dont feel like opening the case on the back end where all the wires are taped down etc, - i have alot of wires and its hard to close the case again - i was looking to just open the front case door and pop in a card and be done with it -

any suggestions on Nvidia cards ? i think the GT640 is the highest card with no external power - i may be wrong - i dont mind going to a external power card if not much more in money etc, if it will make a improvement over the GT640 at least - hopefully i may be able to use it with out connecting the power of the card to my PSU -

how much better would the GT640 do over the intel HD4000 ?

thanks


----------



## Belial

Does anyone know which color of paracord would go best with the ud3h/ud5h? I can't tell between electric blue, colonial blue, royal blue, carribean, what color goes best... im thinking royal but im not sure.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Would anyone know if i would be able to use a Video Card which has a external power connector - but would i be able to use it with out connecting the external power ?


No, the PCIe bus does not provide enough power to run high end graphics cards. That 640 is indeed the fastest Nvidia card you can get that doesn't require external power.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> No, the PCIe bus does not provide enough power to run high end graphics cards. That 640 is indeed the fastest Nvidia card you can get that doesn't require external power.


thanks - would you know how much a difference i can expect if i were to add in the GT640 card - over the stock intel GPU HD 4000 ?

this would be for using NERO encoding and DVD FAB etc, - not for gaming


----------



## Belial

bleh i would not get a newer gen card like a 640. You are way better off buying a much more powerful, older gen card for less. cards like the 640 are a huge rip-off, just because it's new gen they charge you $90 for a card that has no new features over older gen cards that are much more powerful for much cheaper.

GTX 460 more than doubles it's performance for 1/3rd cheaper at $60. You may have to dig around but why would you get a 640 that is terribly weak for such a high price.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> bleh i would not get a newer gen card like a 640. You are way better off buying a much more powerful, older gen card for less. cards like the 640 are a huge rip-off, just because it's new gen they charge you $90 for a card that has no new features over older gen cards that are much more powerful for much cheaper.
> 
> GTX 460 more than doubles it's performance for 1/3rd cheaper at $60. You may have to dig around but why would you get a 640 that is terribly weak for such a high price.


i am not sure - since i really dont do gaming and dont know all the ins and outs of these cards - i look for a few things -

i understand that the GDDR5 Memory is better - so i look for that -

i look for total memory - at least 1 Gig - if 2 Gig - ok depends on price difference

i also am looking at the Cuda Cores - - from reading - my undestanding is the more Cuda Cores - the better performance i would get for my video encoding etc, with DVD FAB -

so i am basing it on those factors - which may be good or may not be -

tell me if i am on the right track or not ?

but does the GT640 do better than the HD 4000 on board ? would it be an improvement over stock GPU


----------



## DeXel

DVDFab can use Intel Quick Sync which is faster and better than Nvidia CUDA. Not sure about Nero.

In both cases quality of video suffers compared to software encoding. In terms of quality: software > quick sync > cuda > ati stream.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> DVDFab can use Intel Quick Sync which is faster and better than Nvidia CUDA. Not sure about Nero.
> 
> In both cases quality of video suffers compared to software encoding. In terms of quality: software > quick sync > cuda > ati stream.


yeah i notice it uses the intel to encode when using DVD FAB - i am wondering if i can improve on this by using a graphics card - and not the intel GPU -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> DVDFab can use Intel Quick Sync which is faster and better than Nvidia CUDA. Not sure about Nero.
> 
> In both cases quality of video suffers compared to software encoding. In terms of quality: software > quick sync > cuda > ati stream.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> yeah i notice it uses the intel to encode when using DVD FAB - i am wondering if i can improve on this by using a graphics card - and not the intel GPU -


how can i improve on the video quality ?


----------



## DeXel

If an application supports IQS, you can't make it any faster by adding discrete GPU. Quick Sync is the fastest H264 hardware encoder. Most programs don't support it though, but perfectly capable of using Nvidia CUDA.

If you want to improve video quality use software encoding only. Disable all hardware acceleration like OpenCL, CUDA, and etc.

And other stuff as usual. Use higher bitrate and etc.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> If an application supports IQS, you can't make it any faster by adding discrete GPU. Quick Sync is the fastest H264 hardware encoder. Most programs don't support it though, but perfectly capable of using Nvidia CUDA.
> 
> If you want to improve video quality use software encoding only. Disable all hardware acceleration like OpenCL, CUDA, and etc.
> 
> And other stuff as usual. Use higher bitrate and etc.


ok but i am lost as to how do i use the software only ? when i am using DVD FAB and it needs to re encode the video - it uses the intel encoder -

what you are saying is i should disable this ? if thats the case - how would i disable it - you feel the DVD FAB software would do a better job and faster than leaving it alone and letting the intel do the encoding ?

i was under the impression theres nothing i can do it just does it - reason i was looking for a Nvidia because of the Cuda - thinking it would be faster overall and better etc, with a Card and not use the HD 4000 Gpu -


----------



## DeXel

There should be an option to disable hardware encoding/decoding. Check the options. If not, it's impossible.

CUDA is not faster than Quick Sync. It's more common.

Software = better quality, much longer encoding.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> There should be an option to disable hardware encoding/decoding. Check the options. If not, it's impossible.
> 
> CUDA is not faster than Quick Sync. It's more common.
> 
> Software = better quality, much longer encoding.


ok i have to check - i never really looked - didnt know - i was actually trying to get it done faster - but it depends how much a difference it will be compared to the quality in the end

for some reason i though Nvidia Cuda was going to make an improvement since DVD FAB is made to work with Cuda Cores -

i have try it with just the software and see -


----------



## DeXel

DVD Fab added support for Quick Sync a while ago. Try to encode using Quick Sync and software.

I just installed DVDFab 9, and all H/W settigns are under General -> A/V.

Default settings maybe are set to use software for encoding, and Quick Sync for decoding. Switch stuff around, and see what works best for you.

For maximum speed you want to set Quick Sync for both encoding and decoding.
For maximum quality set disable all H/W stuff. You can try to use Quick Sync for decoding too. I bet the difference isn't big here.

Then convert the same file using both settings, and see what works best for you.

A comparison of various hardware encoders.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> DVD Fab added support for Quick Sync a while ago. Try to encode using Quick Sync and software.
> 
> I just installed DVDFab 9, and all H/W settigns are under General -> A/V.
> 
> Default settings maybe are set to use software for encoding, and Quick Sync for decoding. Switch stuff around, and see what works best for you.
> 
> For maximum speed you want to set Quick Sync for both encoding and decoding.
> For maximum quality set disable all H/W stuff. You can try to use Quick Sync for decoding too. I bet the difference isn't big here.
> 
> Then convert the same file using both settings, and see what works best for you.
> 
> A comparison of various hardware encoders.


i never really playing around with the settings - to be honest - the quality is Great just as it is - i didnt think i could improve on that - i was shooting to improve the speed and time it takes to get it done -

i noticed that once it starts to re encode if its needed - i try not to compress if i dont have too - but when i do - it starts and then it shows Intel encoder started etc, or decoder - i am not sure now which is says -

i am using DVD Fab 9 - interface is different so its throwing me off a bit also -

so if i use just the software and turn off all the encoders - decoders etc, - i should get a better end result but longer time ?

now - would adding a video card - like the GT640 - make a improvement in speed over the stock intel Gpu ?

i am using this model as a starting point - because its the highest card with no external power -

would this make a difference or nothing at all since i would be using the software only ?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> i understand that the GDDR5 Memory is better - so i look for that -


They're all gddr5.
Quote:


> i look for total memory - at least 1 Gig - if 2 Gig - ok depends on price difference


eh, you dont really need even 1gb except on 1080 and usually more for games. It really depends on the usage, im not sure about your applications.
Quote:


> but does the GT640 do better than the HD 4000 on board ? would it be an improvement over stock GPU


not by much. certainly not for it's price.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> They're all gddr5.
> eh, you dont really need even 1gb except on 1080 and usually more for games. It really depends on the usage, im not sure about your applications.
> not by much. certainly not for it's price.


ok so this may not be worth it then - i just read the link above about the difference with Video codecs etc, - got me more confused - haha

but like he said - the best outcome would be just to use software alone -

i have to see how long that would take compared to my avg time of about a hour and half for a blu ray about 45 gig - had to be compressed to about 75% of size this was with intel re encoder working


----------



## ZealotKi11er

For some reason when i OC now the setting dont stick. Is this a common problem?


----------



## DeXel

Which BIOS?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> For some reason when i OC now the setting dont stick. Is this a common problem?


i had that problem with the newest official beta bios, f15q. changing to f15r solved the problem for me.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> i had that problem with the newest official beta bios, f15q. changing to f15r solved the problem for me.


Yeah that what i used F15q. I will change to F15r then. Thank you.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> i had that problem with the newest official beta bios, f15q. changing to f15r solved the problem for me.


What benefits are you getting with the F15r compared to the official F14 ?

what Pros and Cons do you find between the two

Thanks


----------



## Nostradamus

Hello,

sorry for my english, i am from germany.

So, i have a Z77X-D3H in revision 1.0. This model has a 4-pin ATX-plug for the CPU. I was surprised, this mainboard don't have an 8-Pin EPS-Plug. At the current my Core i5-3570K is overclocked to 4,2 GHz with a VCore at 1,152V at Prime95. The VID is at 1,12V. Well, the 4-pin ATX-Plug can deliver max. 150W, so i understand.

In your forum, a user had a Z77X-D3H, too. Of course, he overclocked his system, but the 4-pin Plug was burned: http://www.overclock.net/t/1326667/gigabyte-ga-z77x-d3h-v-1-0-major-failure

My question is, how far i can choose the VCore, if i want to Overclock my CPU to 4,5 GHz? Am i safe with current settings?

PSU is a bequiet straight power e9 480 watt


----------



## 8bitG33k

Looks like my UD3H died this morning after approximately 10 weeks of service. I unplugged all peripherals such as hard drives, but the standby power button on the board won't even light up. I have a PSU tester and the PSU tests fine. I disconnected everything except the 24pin ATX and the 8pin CPU cable and the boards power button wont even light up.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Looks like my UD3H died this morning after approximately 10 weeks of service. I unplugged all peripherals such as hard drives, but the standby power button on the board won't even light up. I have a PSU tester and the PSU tests fine. I disconnected everything except the 24pin ATX and the 8pin CPU cable and the boards power button wont even light up.


Tried with bios switch on second bios? Just a though although it looks like a dead solid mb.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> What benefits are you getting with the F15r compared to the official F14 ?
> 
> what Pros and Cons do you find between the two
> 
> Thanks


With older bios i could not boot with my 2400 MHz RAM. The latest bios booted right away. If you dont have fast ram you will be fine with F14.


----------



## 8bitG33k

So much for "Ultra" durable.


----------



## slippyjim

Hi,

I recently got the z77-d3h motherboard and hooked it up to my LG flatron L1900J-BF monitor with a DVI cable and everything was fine until i came to install the graphics card drivers and now the DVI port no longer works. It displays the BIOS screen, the "starting windows" and the 4 coloured windows logo appears, then as soon as the logo has been completed the monitor says "Digital Power saving mode".

The vga ports works ok, so I'm having to use that at the moment but I need a dual monitor system.

I've installed the latest vga drivers from the Intel website and flashed the latest BIOS.

Thanks

Model Name : GA-Z77-D3H(rev. 1.0) BIOS Ver : f18

CPU i5-3570k @ stock
Win 7 64-bit SP : 1
2 * 4GB Corsair 1600MHz
Power Supply : 450 W Thermaltake


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> With older bios i could not boot with my 2400 MHz RAM. The latest bios booted right away. If you dont have fast ram you will be fine with F14.


thanks - i have 16 gig kit - sniper ram at XMP profile 1600 9-9-9-24 settings

i dont seem to have many issues - the ones i do get every now and then may be to my OC settings when i try for 4.9 etc, - i get crashes when running programs - my last one was

Kmode exception not handled ? something like that - this is when i try to OC higher than my Stable 4.7 which gives me no crashes

i am sure it can be tweaked to work but i tried a bunch of different settings - Vcore - Ram vcore - loosen the timings etc, and nothing worked

so i am back on my 4.7 all the time -

only think is if the internet ports etc, would be an improvement - i fee like my internet gets affected every now and then - hard to point the finger - could be just the service - my modem etc, and not the board - but i always lean towards the board for some reason -


----------



## alter ego 5150

i need help guys


----------



## moshah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alter ego 5150*
> 
> i need help guys


With what exactly?


----------



## mandrix

So I noticed with the UD5H and F15r BIOS some things don't "stick" when changed. For example internal graphics seems to often default to "Auto" if set to disabled.
Not a big deal, although I set to disabled out of habit I suppose.

But overall F15r is pretty good for me, I do have a weird issue but I suspect it may be faulty SATA data cables with one dropping out occasionally and not booting into Windows. Is strange as this drive is not the OS drive, but if it does not show up in BIOS Windows gets stuck at the start screen. Then I shut down and wiggle the cable, go back to BIOS and reset BBS priorities and it boots into Windows.
Or maybe it's just another crappy WD drive.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i don't think you are setting VCCIO correctly.
> 
> you have to also move VCCSA(IMC Voltage) up with it with 0.005v less than VCCIO(VTT).
> 
> Goto CPU Voltage menu, set QPI/VTT to 1.15v, then set IMC to 1.145 that would engage it so that they change, otherwise it doesn't increase nice unless you do it in windows.
> 
> Also can you change the DRAm stability levels, you can try max them out at 32 each for WR and RW.
> 
> BTW Auto-Tune, it works for me, how you only get to 3.6ghz? lol BTW auto tune OCes the system with power savings on.


why do you need to set the voltages within 0.005?

intel recommended max on vccsa is 0.971 and vccio is 1.08.

intel is saying vcore max is 1.52 which is high, so their stated max voltages for vccsa and vccio are also technically high.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> why do you need to set the voltages within 0.005?
> 
> intel recommended max on vccsa is 0.971 and vccio is 1.08.
> 
> intel is saying vcore max is 1.52 which is high, so their stated max voltages for vccsa and vccio are also technically high.


I've been wondering this since before I even bought an Z77/IB setup. My defaults are .925 IMC and 1.05 VTT. I've only taken my Ivy to 4.8ghz with 1866 CL10 ram and neither of these needed adjustments.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you have to also move VCCSA(IMC Voltage) up with it with 0.005v less than VCCIO(VTT).
> 
> Goto CPU Voltage menu, set QPI/VTT to 1.15v, then set IMC to 1.145 that would engage it so that they change, otherwise it doesn't increase nice unless you do it in windows.


----------



## chropose

In the bios of Z77X-UD3H there is "Performance Enhance" option. Default is set to "Turbo" but since it says enhance system performance I set it to "Extreme". What does this option do actually and what would you guys suggest to set it to?

Thanks.


----------



## uncola

I also have a Z77X-UD3H. This may be a dumb question, but if I'm only using 2 ram slots, and not using dual channel, can I still use XMP 1600 mhz profile? my ram supports it, and I set it in the bios and saved it, but after a reboot when I go back into the bios, the first screen still shows ram is running at 1333MHz, cpu-z in windows 8 also shows 667MHz. The reason I'm not using dual channel is because the first two ram slots don't work and I didn't want to mail it in for warranty repair yet.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> why do you need to set the voltages within 0.005?
> 
> intel recommended max on vccsa is 0.971 and vccio is 1.08.
> 
> intel is saying vcore max is 1.52 which is high, so their stated max voltages for vccsa and vccio are also technically high.


you can go above intel's ratings on VCCIO and VCCSA without issues. Really you can.

You gotta set them 0.005v apart because of the way the VR for those two outputs are designed on the UD3H and UD5H. You can prob get away with more than 0.005, but I just say 0.005v because it is garunteed to work.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> you can go above intel's ratings on VCCIO and VCCSA without issues. Really you can.
> 
> You gotta set them 0.005v apart because of the way the VR for those two outputs are designed on the UD3H and UD5H. You can prob get away with more than 0.005, but I just say 0.005v because it is garunteed to work.


what would you say is the max 24/7 voltages?

1.2 and 1.195?

1.15 and 1.145?


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> what would you say is the max 24/7 voltages?
> 
> 1.2 and 1.195?
> 
> 1.15 and 1.145?


Depend of your memory speed (usually above DDR3 2400) and capacity (4x4GB and above).


----------



## homestyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Depend of your memory speed (usually above DDR3 2400) and capacity (4x4GB and above).


the ram speed is besides the point.

the voltage would be pumping through the cpu, so I'm concerned about the cpu.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> the ram speed is besides the point.
> .


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Depend of your memory speed (usually above DDR3 2400) and capacity (4x4GB and above).


Interesting. I guess 2x8GB 1866mhz ram doesn't relaly stress the memory controller that much then.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> the ram speed is besides the point.
> 
> the voltage would be pumping through the cpu, so I'm concerned about the cpu.


Seeing that the default is not .005v difference I don't see any reason to worry about your CPU.


----------



## Sin0822

i would say 1.2.1.195

Intel says it themselves that keeping the volts together in general helps also with stability.


----------



## OmarCCX

I'm getting my Z77X-UD3H today, should I upgrade the bios to the latest one (F18), or just leave it as is and only update if necessary?


----------



## skywalkr

Hey guys,

So after owning the UD3H for close to 6 months now, the USB ports in the back died on me (all the VIA ones). Got an RMA accepted... but, not sure if I want to be sending this back again in another 6 months.

My question is, are all the USB ports on the UD5H Intel ones? I checked the drivers and noticed they only have Intel ones... but just want to double check before ordering one, as I actually need more than 2 usable ports - thanks.


----------



## DeXel

UD5H has all Intel ports, but they go through VIA hub.


----------



## skywalkr

DeXel, what's your opinion on the MSI Z77A-G45 Thunderbolt vs UD4H?

Both seem to be similar, UD4H doesn't have thunderbolt, and the G45 only has 2x sata 3 (compared to 8x sata 3 on the UD4H). Also noticed that the UD4H's USB 3.0 ports are Etron. So it looks like they got rid of their problematic VIA ports. Now the question is if I'll ever use Thunderbolt in the near future heh.

Pretty sure I'm going to pull the trigger on the UD4H (as OCing on the UD3H was literally a breeze).

Edit: was a little off on the specs, corrected.


----------



## DeXel

Avoid G45 at all costs. It uses D-PAKs, and unlike Extreme4 there is no phase doubling. If you need TB, just overpay for UP4, but I doubt that most will need it until current gen hardware will become really outdated (5 years).


----------



## DeXel

double


----------



## skywalkr

Awesome, thanks for info DeXel.

Pulled the trigger on the UD4H.


----------



## alter ego 5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moshah*
> 
> With what exactly?


hi guys, i need help with my new rig.
i have a gigabyte ga z77x ud3h motherboard, my problem is my motherboard does not detect my hard disc drive and my dvd drive. motherboard codes shows A6, if i try to format my drive using usb flash drive the bios will detect the usb drive but when i got to the drive selection in which to format i does not show any drive.
i have tried changing sata cables, power supply, changing hard disc still no luck, my motherboard would not detect my hard disk.
i have tried updating the bios to f18 still no luck again.

can anyone help me please.....
i have contacted gigabyte support but they tell me to just change sata cables, psu. etc......
i have tried changing bios settings, resetting bios, loading optimized defaults nothing happened.

please help me guys.
thanks a lot


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I'm getting my Z77X-UD3H today, should I upgrade the bios to the latest one (F18), or just leave it as is and only update if necessary?


Update it, always fixes some quirks and gives enhancements.


----------



## adridu59

I'd try this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roxxphatcox*
> 
> If people get the a6 debug error on the motherboard (the led in the lower right corner)
> 
> Remove your vidcard and use the igp, set up the bios and load optimized defaults, install windows and then install vidcard.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alter ego 5150*
> 
> hi guys, i need help with my new rig.
> i have a gigabyte ga z77x ud3h motherboard, my problem is my motherboard does not detect my hard disc drive and my dvd drive. motherboard codes shows A6, if i try to format my drive using usb flash drive the bios will detect the usb drive but when i got to the drive selection in which to format i does not show any drive.
> i have tried changing sata cables, power supply, changing hard disc still no luck, my motherboard would not detect my hard disk.
> i have tried updating the bios to f18 still no luck again.
> 
> can anyone help me please.....
> i have contacted gigabyte support but they tell me to just change sata cables, psu. etc......
> i have tried changing bios settings, resetting bios, loading optimized defaults nothing happened.
> 
> please help me guys.
> thanks a lot


Hey man whats up. So as the guy above said A6 or really Ab as there is no top bar to make it a 6, means you are in the UEFI. if you see nothing on the screen then there is something wrong with your GPU configuration, however if youa re in the UEFI and you have code Ab or A6 then everything is good, nothing bad.

Now your USB drives can replace HDDs and SSDs in the boot order. To get over this, under BIOS Features menu, find the boot selection options, BUT go into this option: HDD BBSE Priorities, if you have other devices then you wont ever see your HDD in the boot menu until you go into the BBSE priorities menu and change it to be the first one int he list.


----------



## Shadowspawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey man whats up. So as the guy above said A6 or really Ab as there is no top bar to make it a 6, means you are in the UEFI. if you see nothing on the screen then there is something wrong with your GPU configuration, however if youa re in the UEFI and you have code Ab or A6 then everything is good, nothing bad.
> 
> Now your USB drives can replace HDDs and SSDs in the boot order. To get over this, under BIOS Features menu, find the boot selection options, BUT go into this option: HDD BBSE Priorities, if you have other devices then you wont ever see your HDD in the boot menu until you go into the BBSE priorities menu and change it to be the first one int he list.


This may or may not be relevant, but I had exactly one problem when In built my system with this board some months ago. (I actually had 2 problems, but one was because Arctic did not properly seat the fan blades on the shaft, so that doesn't really matter here).

I had not yet installed a video card, and was using the GPU on the Intel CPU. I'd get to A6, and the screen would be black, no BIOS.

Somehow, I figured out that what I needed to do was to unplug the monitor from the system, power on with no monitor attached, wait for the A6 status, and then plug the monitor into the system. Then, the BIOS popped onto the monitor and all was well. If I powered on the system with the monitor attached, I never saw anything.

This issue went away after I installed the video card.

FWIW...


----------



## Sin0822

yea, i get that sometimes depending on the iGPU output, what output were you using? HDMI or DVI?


----------



## Shadowspawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea, i get that sometimes depending on the iGPU output, what output were you using? HDMI or DVI?


It was DVI. Pretty sure about that, because that monitor was used for years with a laptop docking station that had DVI as it's best output, no HDMI.


----------



## GOTFrog

Is there a way to update lucid mvp without having to pay. Really annoying getting the update message. I was only getting it at startup and now Ii get the balloon popup every time I open an app.


----------



## barkeater

You could uninstall lucid as it really doesn't do much real world performance. Funny though as I've had it installed for a long time and have not had any update balloons (shrug)


----------



## Nostradamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostradamus*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> sorry for my english, i am from germany.
> 
> So, i have a Z77X-D3H in revision 1.0. This model has a 4-pin ATX-plug for the CPU. I was surprised, this mainboard don't have an 8-Pin EPS-Plug. At the current my Core i5-3570K is overclocked to 4,2 GHz with a VCore at 1,152V at Prime95. The VID is at 1,12V. Well, the 4-pin ATX-Plug can deliver max. 150W, so i understand.
> 
> In your forum, a user had a Z77X-D3H, too. Of course, he overclocked his system, but the 4-pin Plug was burned: http://www.overclock.net/t/1326667/gigabyte-ga-z77x-d3h-v-1-0-major-failure
> 
> My question is, how far i can choose the VCore, if i want to Overclock my CPU to 4,5 GHz? Am i safe with current settings?
> 
> PSU is a bequiet straight power e9 480 watt


Can someone please answer my question?


----------



## DeXel

From what I know 4 pin can deliver 22 amps which is 264W. More than enough for any overclock. His plug fried not because it couldn't deliver, but rather because it was defective or something wrong with his PSU.

Also D3H rev 1.1 has 8 pin connector.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chropose*
> 
> In the bios of Z77X-UD3H there is "Performance Enhance" option. Default is set to "Turbo" but since it says enhance system performance I set it to "Extreme". What does this option do actually and what would you guys suggest to set it to?
> 
> Thanks.


timings

they give better score in aida64 bench buit could cause a little instability maybe


----------



## Nostradamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> From what I know 4 pin can deliver 22 amps which is 264W. More than enough for any overclock. His plug fried not because it couldn't deliver, but rather because it was defective or something wrong with his PSU.
> 
> Also D3H rev 1.1 has 8 pin connector.


Thx for your reply.







Are you also sure that it can otherwise cause no damage? I must not make me worry?


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostradamus*
> 
> Thx for your reply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you also sure that it can otherwise cause no damage? I must not make me worry?


Just go for it







Says me, sitting here happily with my 1.1


----------



## Nostradamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> Just go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Says me, sitting here happily with my 1.1


But the revision 1.1 have a 8-pol ATX. My question is about the revision 1.0 with a 4-pin ATX.


----------



## barkeater

There is always an increase risk of damage to your computer when overclocking. Only you can decide if it is worth the risk.

As to whether the 4-pin atx connector on the motherboard is capable of handling the additional power requirements under load at a particular OC is a question better asked directly with the motherboard supplier. My guess is that you likely will not have a problem due to the connector limits but may have problems with your power supply being able to maintain the 12v (+/-) under load. Without knowing your system specs, it is impossible to say whether your power supply is up to the task of performing well at high oc's.


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostradamus*
> 
> But the revision 1.1 have a 8-pol ATX. My question is about the revision 1.0 with a 4-pin ATX.


Yeah, I know. I was just saying that because it's your house that's going to burn down, not mine









Spoiler: J/k....



Your house won't burn down


----------



## Nostradamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> There is always an increase risk of damage to your computer when overclocking. Only you can decide if it is worth the risk.
> 
> As to whether the 4-pin atx connector on the motherboard is capable of handling the additional power requirements under load at a particular OC is a question better asked directly with the motherboard supplier. My guess is that you likely will not have a problem due to the connector limits but may have problems with your power supply being able to maintain the 12v (+/-) under load. Without knowing your system specs, it is impossible to say whether your power supply is up to the task of performing well at high oc's.


My Rig:

Core i5-3570K @ 4,2 GHz @ 1,152V (Standard-VID = 1,12V)
Z77X-D3H Rev. 1.0
2x 8GB G.Skill Ares DDR3-1600
GTX 660 Ti
3x HDD, 1x SSD, 1x optical drive
Asus Xonar DG
bequiet! Straight Power E9 480W


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostradamus*
> 
> My Rig:
> 
> Core i5-3570K @ 4,2 GHz @ 1,152V (Standard-VID = 1,12V)
> Z77X-D3H Rev. 1.0
> 2x 8GB G.Skill Ares DDR3-1600
> GTX 660 Ti
> 3x HDD, 1x SSD, 1x optical drive
> Asus Xonar DG
> bequiet! Straight Power E9 480W


You'll be just fine, from what I've seen the 4-pin connector can supply 250W and honestly if you suck 250W through the motherboard alone then you'd have a bigger PSU to start with which you obviously don't need. It's a 77W TDP'ed CPU right?

For a more detailed analysis checkout Sin's review of the G1.Sniper M3:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1299900/g1-sniper-m3-review/0_20

His testings should definitely reassure you, as *DeXel* said I guess that the problem which happened in the thread you mentioned wasn't related to the fact that it's a 4-pin connector.


----------



## Nostradamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> It's a 77W TDP'ed CPU right?


Yes, 77W TDP.


----------



## roudabout6

If I have more than one stick of ram in any slot on my ud3h then I get the code 51 on the Debug LED. But If I use one then I can use it in any slot?


----------



## Kazmakistan

My System Fan 3 just goes nuts on this board. There's no way to control it's speed? Should I just get a 4 pin 120mm case fan then?


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kazmakistan*
> 
> My System Fan 3 just goes nuts on this board. There's no way to control it's speed? Should I just get a 4 pin 120mm case fan then?


And which board might 'this board' be?

On my D3H I only seem to have the ability to control the System fan 1 when there's a 3 pin connected. The other 2 system fan headers just seem to do their own thing


----------



## Kazmakistan

I have a UD5H board.

This fan is driving me nuts. I don't know if I need to replace the fan to make it a 4 pin connector or what to do.


----------



## barkeater

if you have a 3-pin fan connected to sys_fan3 header then you have no control of it through the mobo. Only cpu_fan and sys_fan1 can control a 3-pin fan (i.e., voltage control). You will need a pwm fan (4-pin) on sys_fan3 if you want the mobo to control it.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean when you say it goes nuts. A 3-pin fan on sys_fan3 should run at 100% all the time. Could you be more specific with it's behavior. You can use the Gigabyte program EasyTune6 to monitor the fan speed.


----------



## Kazmakistan

Okay, so I need to buy a 4 pin connector fan then. I did not realize that 3 pin fans always go at 100%. I guess it's a really loud fan at 100%.

Are there any 4 pin connector fans you would recommend?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kazmakistan*
> 
> Okay, so I need to buy a 4 pin connector fan then. I did not realize that 3 pin fans always go at 100%. I guess it's a really loud fan at 100%.
> 
> Are there any 4 pin connector fans you would recommend?


120mm: Gelid Silent 12 PWM (those are not meant to be used on heatsinks through so if you want versatile fans I wouldn't get this)
140mm: Thermalright TY-147
They're both FDB fans, pretty good stuff

But you might as well buy a fan controller unless you want to step up from your current fans.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kazmakistan*
> 
> Okay, so I need to buy a 4 pin connector fan then. I did not realize that 3 pin fans always go at 100%. I guess it's a really loud fan at 100%.
> 
> Are there any 4 pin connector fans you would recommend?


Although no information on this in the User manual, sys_fan1 is voltage controlled. That is the good news. The bad news is that Gigabyte decided to tie all of the system fan headers that are controllable to a temperature sensor that hardly changes. The good news to that bad news is that you can get around that by using a free program called Speedfan.

However, as already pointed out, the best way to control your system fans is by using a fan controller.


----------



## mandrix

I would definitely buy a fan controller or use speedfan. I love the UD5H but the truth is fan control is not good.

Finally I managed to update the chipset drivers one at a time and the system seems a bit more responsive. Evidently the chipset install programs from Intel don't work for me unless I do it manually.
My boot time to Windows start screen is incredibly faster.
BTW latest Intel INF & MEI updates are at TweakTown.


----------



## Cheepnis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Try just passing thru the digital signal to the receiver with VLC or Powerdvd and you will get DTS, Dolby Digital or whatever the source is encoded in.
> 
> Simply set the default sound output to digital, open whatever movie you in Powerdvd and you are all done. DTS connect is not needed at all. I have the UD5H and I promise that's all that needs to be done. And, honestly, the same holds true for any board with a digital sound output. Just use the right playback software (Powerdvd) for your media and it's a easy win.


Quote:


> I tried to install DTS Connect from the disk and it said "hardware not detected" or some such.. I reinstalled all the Creative, uh, "stuff", just to see if it would then install manually but no good.
> ....and the standard implementation of DTS through toslink (on Gigabyte boards) is no good since it will only pass stereo and not the 5.1 encoded so that it can be decoded at an AVR.


My surround sound receiver is old and cheap, so it only has SPDIF and Coaxial inputs.

I can play just about any video files I have with 5.1 surround sound through media players like PotPlayer, VLC, and WMP. The problem is everything else.

I can't play video games in 5.1 through the SPDIF because, apparently, video games don't encode audio to DTS or DD.

I called Gigabyte tech support and the guy told me I would need to add a compressor from Dolby, but he had no specifics, and I am kind of lost. I have looked around the internet and the only thing I've found is a DTS Connect Pack from Creative http://software.store.creative.com/software/dolby-digital-live-and-dts-connect-pack/106-18034.aspx, but that is not for onboard audio.

Has anyone here actually been able to add DTS Connect or DDL to their UD5H system to enable them to play 5.1 sound through SPDIF? If so, how?


----------



## Cheepnis

Gigabyte tech support had me install Dolby Control Center from the Utilities folder of the driver CD. It seemed to install properly but, when I try to start the program (DCC) a windows pop-up says "An internal error has occured. Exiting application".

I tried to install DolbyAdvancedAudio and DolbyHomeTheatre from the PCEE4 sub-folder of the Realtek folder but, it says "PCEE needs to be installed".

I have uninstalled and reinstalled the Realtek drivers and still get the same message.

UPDATE: Gigabyte seems to have pretty good tech support. They have not been able to resolve my issue yet but they are setting up a rig to test it for themselves as I type this, and will call back soon to take me through it step-by-step. Feeling pretty hopeful right now.


----------



## Fossil

Can someone please assist me in gett'ing this 7870 to work? Firstly, the PC is under my rigs named "comp for Alex. I just bought a Powercolor 7870 MYST and we've spent the last hour or so having no luck getting a signal to the monitor. It's like the very second the video card is plugged in I can't get a signal at all via the GPU or integrated. Once I remove the card, signal returns to the integrated just fine.

From what I've found online it's a matter of going under Peripherals and changing 'Init Display First' to PEG(?) and 'Internal Graphics settings' to Enabled. I've tried fiddling with the other options but the outcome is always the same. I've had to reset the CMOS once when I chose disabled for IGS settings. I'm not sure what to do at this point. I feel like I'm missing something really small and obvious. Any help is appreciated.

For the record the mobo is Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H Rev 1.0
Bios is currently F5. I am trying to flash it but apparently Q-flash doesn't care to listen.

EDIT: Problem solved. Updated bios to F14 and it picked up the GPU just fine.


----------



## WeiZhong

Any UD3H owner here with a direct cuii gpu? Mind taking picture of those beautiful set up? I want to do a crossfire and want to know how much clearance there is. Thanks


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheepnis*
> 
> My surround sound receiver is old and cheap, so it only has SPDIF and Coaxial inputs.
> 
> I can play just about any video files I have with 5.1 surround sound through media players like PotPlayer, VLC, and WMP. The problem is everything else.
> 
> I can't play video games in 5.1 through the SPDIF because, apparently, video games don't encode audio to DTS or DD.
> 
> I called Gigabyte tech support and the guy told me I would need to add a compressor from Dolby, but he had no specifics, and I am kind of lost. I have looked around the internet and the only thing I've found is a DTS Connect Pack from Creative http://software.store.creative.com/software/dolby-digital-live-and-dts-connect-pack/106-18034.aspx, but that is not for onboard audio.
> 
> Has anyone here actually been able to add DTS Connect or DDL to their UD5H system to enable them to play 5.1 sound through SPDIF? If so, how?


I spoke with Gigabyte many months ago about using DTS Connect.
DTS Connect does not work with the audio on the UD5H, the hardware just does not support it. The only reason it's on the install disk is because it's part of a prepackaged program that they didn't bother to remove DTS Connect from.
If you can find an old Creative DTS-610 off Ebay or wherever it will do what you want, but they are getting pretty hard to find.
I use one to interface between my pc and the HT in another room. One of the drawbacks is that it only outputs 44.1, but it will encapsulate wav 5.1 to DTS and send along a toslink cable to an AVR capable of decoding DTS.

I'm afraid that if you want to use DTS Connect you are going to have to buy a sound card that supports it. Don't even bother with the Creative flavor of DTS Connect, it only works with certain of their sound cards.

Auzentech, Creative, and some others have sound cards that support DTS Connect.

But you should be able to use a program like PowerDVD with the right settings to achieve what you want to do.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheepnis*
> 
> My surround sound receiver is old and cheap, so it only has SPDIF and Coaxial inputs.
> 
> I can play just about any video files I have with 5.1 surround sound through media players like PotPlayer, VLC, and WMP. The problem is everything else.
> 
> I can't play video games in 5.1 through the SPDIF because, apparently, video games don't encode audio to DTS or DD.
> 
> I called Gigabyte tech support and the guy told me I would need to add a compressor from Dolby, but he had no specifics, and I am kind of lost. I have looked around the internet and the only thing I've found is a DTS Connect Pack from Creative http://software.store.creative.com/software/dolby-digital-live-and-dts-connect-pack/106-18034.aspx, but that is not for onboard audio.
> 
> Has anyone here actually been able to add DTS Connect or DDL to their UD5H system to enable them to play 5.1 sound through SPDIF? If so, how?


I get DTS and DD from on board sound if the file I'm playing is encoded with either DTS or dd, and I use the appropriate player, vlc or power DVD.

The games your playing would have to support DTS and dd for it to work. I don't know if games offer surround sound support, I'd be surprised if they do, which is I think your problem. If the game can't create a DTS or dd 5.1 output you'll never get your receiver to support it. Unless you try to force a normal 2 channel output to a digital 5.1 format, which I don't know how to do, and would be worthless because it would be a DSP creating fake surround sound.

I am using the ud5h with an old Yamaha receiver, like 12 years old, and I have no problem getting a DTS or dd signal to it using a optical cable. This again is for movies, not games, with a properly encoded file and using a player that supports DTS and dd playback.


----------



## Viviox

Hi Guys,

I just bought Powercools 7870 Myst Edition and probably get it by Monday or Tuesday. I heard that the card have problem at POST with Gigabyte Z77 Series and that you have to update the BIOS to fix it. Does anyone own a Z77X-UD3H + the 7870 Myst card have similar problems out of the box? If so, how do I update BIOS in a safely manner?

I currently have the original BIOS F7 that came with the board.

Thanks!!


----------



## skywalkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viviox*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I just bought Powercools 7870 Myst Edition and probably get it by Monday or Tuesday. I heard that the card have problem at POST with Gigabyte Z77 Series and that you have to update the BIOS to fix it. Does anyone own a Z77X-UD3H + the 7870 Myst card have similar problems out of the box? If so, how do I update BIOS in a safely manner?
> 
> I currently have the original BIOS F7 that came with the board.
> 
> Thanks!!


Why not just boot it up using onboard video and update the BIOS that way?

Reboot, then turn it off and put your card in.

You can update the BIOS with @BIOS in the download section for your board.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I get DTS and DD from on board sound if the file I'm playing is encoded with either DTS or dd, and I use the appropriate player, vlc or power DVD.
> 
> The games your playing would have to support DTS and dd for it to work. I don't know if games offer surround sound support, I'd be surprised if they do, which is I think your problem. If the game can't create a DTS or dd 5.1 output you'll never get your receiver to support it. Unless you try to force a normal 2 channel output to a digital 5.1 format, which I don't know how to do, and would be worthless because it would be a DSP creating fake surround sound.
> 
> I am using the ud5h with an old Yamaha receiver, like 12 years old, and I have no problem getting a DTS or dd signal to it using a optical cable. This again is for movies, not games, with a properly encoded file and using a player that supports DTS and dd playback.


Yep. Using capable software is definitely key to passing DTS/DD untouched.
Of course the other route to go is to use a player that decodes DTS/DD and just use the analog outs to the AVR, which is what I do. Or you can go from the analog outs to powered speakers if you prefer.


----------



## Viviox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalkr*
> 
> Why not just boot it up using onboard video and update the BIOS that way?
> 
> Reboot, then turn it off and put your card in.
> 
> You can update the BIOS with @BIOS in the download section for your board.


Is it safer to Update using @BIOS, or through Q-FLASH in BIOS manually? Also, which BIOS is the best for the UD3H? according to gigabyte, they have F7 all the way to F19. A lot to choose from, or do I just go with the latest?


----------



## Sin0822

it is safer to do through QFLASH in the UEFi.
IMo just try it out of the box, if you have issues then update. Remember you can use your onboard video instead if your GPU wont work right.


----------



## OmarCCX

For some reason, none of my VIA ports are running at 3.0 speeds on a 3.0 flashdrive. Even the front ports.


----------



## Viviox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> it is safer to do through QFLASH in the UEFi.
> IMo just try it out of the box, if you have issues then update. Remember you can use your onboard video instead if your GPU wont work right.


I like to be prepare and ready for the arrival of the 7870 today. Can't wait to test it out


----------



## SDBolts619

Interesting to read that the F15q may be the culprit when it comes to BIOS overclocking settings not 'sticking'. I'd been struggling with trying to figure out why my voltages didn't seem to change in Windows after I'd updated them in BIOS.

Looks like I'll be installing F15r when I get home.

Guess the Silverstone CLEAR-CMOS switch I ordered Friday isn't really necessary if this is the case, but what the hell, it was only $9, so I might as well keep it and install it...


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> For some reason, none of my VIA ports are running at 3.0 speeds on a 3.0 flashdrive. Even the front ports.


did you install the drivers?


----------



## XeinsteinX

Hi guys I have a GA Z77 UD3H and No matter what I do I can't get my mic to work!


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> did you install the drivers?


Twice. Didn't do a thing.


----------



## zombo

Terrible driver updates?!?! BIOS has not been updated since BETA version released in 2012/11/21 ***??

My board seems quire unstable with that BIOS, want a new one to come out!

Also have issue of system intermittently not waking from standby under Windows 8, anyone else have that issue?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zombo*
> 
> Terrible driver updates?!?! BIOS has not been updated since BETA version released in 2012/11/21 ***??
> 
> My board seems quire unstable with that BIOS, want a new one to come out!
> 
> Also have issue of system intermittently not waking from standby under Windows 8, anyone else have that issue?


http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html


----------



## mandrix

I've had overclock settings not wanting to stick in UD5H F15r. Seems the only fix for me is to reflash bios when it happens.
All the settings show up in the bios, they just don't happen in reality.

Once I reflash, all is good again. Weird. But then I've seen this over and over through many bios versions so it's MOL expected at this point, unfortunately.
Clearing CMOS / loading optimized defaults rarely helps.


----------



## Scott1541

Any ideas why I can't control a 3 pin fan connected to the CPU fan header? In gigabyte easytune 6 I can control the speed of the the fan connected to the first chassis fan header, but when I try to adjust the CPU fan it just keeps on spinning at ~1600 RPM. I used to have a PWM fan hooked up to that header before switching coolers and that could be controlled.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> Any ideas why I can't control a 3 pin fan connected to the CPU fan header? In gigabyte easytune 6 I can control the speed of the the fan connected to the first chassis fan header, but when I try to adjust the CPU fan it just keeps on spinning at ~1600 RPM. I used to have a PWM fan hooked up to that header before switching coolers and that could be controlled.


Set it to voltage if not PWM. Auto doesn't work for me either


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Set it to voltage if not PWM. Auto doesn't work for me either


I'll have a look in the UEFI when I'm next using my rig, which will be tomorrow now


----------



## DeXel

Also use Speedfan.


----------



## Sin0822

yea just change fan mode from auto to voltage mode, not PWm mode tho, those are the only two modes and by default its PWm mode.


----------



## sovvy

I am hoping someone can help me out

I have Z77X-UD5H (wifi) Version 1.0 - I have latest beta 15q BIOS loaded

But I cant enter BIOS setting via F10 of for that matter any of the boot up options F12 - F9 etc on booting the system

I tried using a non cordless keyboard (a USB one) but still none of these commands work on startup?

The system just starts into Windows 8..

I want to do a clean install therefore boot from DVD but I cant even get to do this?

What am I doing wrong??

Tks SOVVY


----------



## jayhay

Try a rear USB 2.0 port. USB 3 and front ports can be fickle.


----------



## sovvy

Ahh ok that did it - used back usb port and all ok

Tks


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> yea just change fan mode from auto to voltage mode, not PWm mode tho, those are the only two modes and by default its PWm mode.


That's sorted it







Now I can take the resistor off that fan


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> i had that problem with the newest official beta bios, f15q. changing to f15r solved the problem for me.
> 
> 
> 
> What benefits are you getting with the F15r compared to the official F14 ?
> 
> what Pros and Cons do you find between the two
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Way more RAM timings, like slew rate and tcke. The opening boot screen, where you choose go to bios, where to boot from, etc, is arranged better (my monitor, when starting up the computer, says HDMI in the bottom right, and on F14 it blocked one of the options, while on F15r, they clearly moved around the options so it won't get blocked by things like that).

It also adds fastboot/ultrafast boot. I think those might just be for windows 8. I played around with them and they did change a few things - i think all it does is change how fast your opening splash screen is, which is when the computer is initializing and detecting what's plugged into it, which doesn't take long at all anyways.

For RAM overclocking F15r is wayyy better than F14. The latest official beta bios on gigabyte's page, the F15q, sucked, anytime I applied settings, they wouldn't stick. I think what they tried to do was like if your overclock was unstable, they'd just use the last successful boot, but you weren't exactly clued in to when your overclock was unstable, and it didn't seem quite right, so what happened was basically I never knew if my overclock changes were being applied or not, and just to be safe I'd have to cmos reset anytime I wanted to set different bios settings and it really sucked. I mean it's more than me just being cautious, there was something else going on where even very minor, clearly stable bios changes being applied, simply wouldn't stick.

On the Z77X-UD5H, can you set different RAM timings to each channel? I'm trying to do that but it's not really sticking. Halp.

For reference, I'm using 996902s in one channel, 996826's in the other.
996902 = mushkin blackline ridgebacks 2000mhz CL7-10-8-27 1.65v (verified 35+ hour stable on vtt/imc/pll 1v/.875v/1.6v [email protected])
996826 = mushkin blackline ridgebacks 1600mhz CL6-8-6-24 1.65v

They are actually both identical RAM ICs (XDZxxxA3G-A, with the 2000mhz ones being 014 and 1600s at 015 so same ic, made the next week). I think the new kit actually isn't as good an overclocker as my 996902s (which overclocked better than my previous xdz's anyways) but I was trying to set different timings on each kit to hopefully make them work but having difficulty.


----------



## dramabeats

anyone have super weird cpu-z readings? I just got this board and started offset overclocking, on my previous z77-mpower I was stable 4.5ghz at 75-80c (1.28v), I might of overvolted this chip a little on this board because my cpu-z readings were sitting at 1.08 (DVID set up to .3) so I set the DVID at .1 something and checked the core temp reading and it said 1.209v at 80c... So i'm a little freaked out about my chip and wondering why my voltage is so off (thermal paste and heatsink are fine)


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Whats the bios like on the gigabyte z77 ? I have a gigabye z68 and the non-UFI?? bios is super basic. You can't enter numbers for voltages, only single scroll up/down through the list, very slow.

Also there was no saving of profiles, just the save and quit.

But I'd consider them again for a z87 for an i5-4670k over the summer


----------



## homestyle

what is a safe temp for the Z77x-ud3h vrm? what is max safe 24/7 vrm temp that won't shorten the life of the board considerably?

how about the pch temp?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Whats the bios like on the gigabyte z77 ? I have a gigabye z68 and the non-UFI?? bios is super basic. You can't enter numbers for voltages, only single scroll up/down through the list, very slow.


I like it a lot more than the asrock, biostar, or msi bios' i've used. You can enter in numbers. Most mice don't seem to work for me very well though in the bios (mice that work in other motherboard bios'). I could care less about how a bios look though, they are all pretty straightforward and easy to figure out... and I always prefer the 2d bios instead of the fancy 3d one.

MSI is said to have the 'best' bios but personally I didn't like it as much as the gigabyte bios. It's such a non-issue to me though, i dont care about this high end z77 bios or the msi bios i had on some pentium 4 10 year old computer that i dont even know what the chipset is to or my biostar am3 board.
Quote:


> what is a safe temp for the Z77x-ud3h vrm? what is max safe 24/7 vrm temp that won't shorten the life of the board considerably?


around 120-140*C. Max 24/7 is somewhere around there as well, maybe 100*C at the lowest. I never got anywhere close to even 70*C even with some rather extreme voltages, what are you doing that you are worrying about VRM temps?

Not sure on exact PCH temp, you can google this all very easily, but max is like 90*C+ and PCH tends to run 'hot' all the time, so the 50-60*C you see for your PCH temp all the time is more than okay and is expected.
Quote:


> anyone have super weird cpu-z readings? I just got this board and started offset overclocking, on my previous z77-mpower I was stable 4.5ghz at 75-80c (1.28v), I might of overvolted this chip a little on this board because my cpu-z readings were sitting at 1.08 (DVID set up to .3) so I set the DVID at .1 something and checked the core temp reading and it said 1.209v at 80c... So i'm a little freaked out about my chip and wondering why my voltage is so off (thermal paste and heatsink are fine)


CPU-Z is a terrible way to monitor voltage, it just gives a quick snapshot. Use hwinfo instead. 1.2v is stock voltage for some chips (as stock voltage varies chip to chip). You have voltage read-outs, you can always whip out the DMM. cpu-z is always way off anyways, probably more so on your mpower than your gigabyte board.


----------



## BeattieGFC

Hi folks,

Just ordered myself a GA-Z77X-UD5H... Which BIOS version should I use? The one that comes with it? Or another one from the web (links please)







Cheers!


----------



## svenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeattieGFC*
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> Just ordered myself a GA-Z77X-UD5H... Which BIOS version should I use? The one that comes with it? Or another one from the web (links please)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


The latest beta BIOS on Gigabyte's website is F15q. The latest full release is F14. If your board comes with anything pre-F14, you might want to consider updating to at least that release.


----------



## BeattieGFC

would you recomend the F15q over the F14?


----------



## svenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeattieGFC*
> 
> would you recomend the F15q over the F14?


I don't use that model, so I couldn't say for certain. Hopefully an UD5H owner will pipe in with his/her experiences.


----------



## mandrix

The latest beta bios for Gigabyte boards are always posted by Stasio over at the TweakTown Gigabyte forum. He also posts the latest drivers, monitoring, and overclocking programs making it truly a one stop shop for anything Gigabyte related.








http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/

The latest for the UD5H is F15r and I would recommend it over the F15q. If you are going to overclock, especially RAM, I would go with F15r for sure. If you just want the latest official stable release run F14.


----------



## dramabeats

So is 1.2v about normal for 4.5ghz on these boards?


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> anyone have super weird cpu-z readings? I just got this board and started offset overclocking, on my previous z77-mpower I was stable 4.5ghz at 75-80c (1.28v), I might of overvolted this chip a little on this board because my cpu-z readings were sitting at 1.08 (DVID set up to .3) so I set the DVID at .1 something and checked the core temp reading and it said 1.209v at 80c... So i'm a little freaked out about my chip and wondering why my voltage is so off (thermal paste and heatsink are fine)


Voltage required for a certain frequency will vary from board to board and even Bios to Bios version. I wouldn't worry about it if temps are good and the system is stable. 80C still gives you enough headroom that if temps are off you shouldn't be throttling.


----------



## Ramzinho

hello OCN. i have a weird issue. my HDD appears in safely remove hardware. i think i messed up while installing drivers. please point me to the ones that really matter, I've the UD3H and i installed. the VIA and Intel USB3, The Via sound, and the onboard gpu. i installed the marvel controller and removed it..

how can i fix this. thanks


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> So is 1.2v about normal for 4.5ghz on these boards?


Somewhere around there. I need 1.25 on my UD3H..


----------



## Ramzinho

guys i have the UD3H Rev 1.0. and whenever i go heavy on downloads. the lan disconnects. i updated to bios f18. any idea how to solve this. i also have the latest chipset drivers installed from gigabyte site


----------



## Sin0822

did you install the right drivers for the NIC? I think its atheros.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> guys i have the UD3H Rev 1.0. and whenever i go heavy on downloads. the lan disconnects. i updated to bios f18. any idea how to solve this. i also have the latest chipset drivers installed from gigabyte site


i had this issue long ago, that lan just sucks

if you download torrents it will surely kill the internet

i don´t know if newer dirvers fixed it, i use wifi now


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> would you recomend the F15q over the F14?


F15Q is beta so it has a few bugs. I noticed that with F15Q when doing RAM overclocks they don't always stick, and I've had a few profiles I've made dissapear. It kinda sucks because to really be sure you basically gotta CMOS reset and then apply a profile you created prior, to make sure your changes stick. I mean it really sucks you spend 2 hours testing different RAM timings, and then you realize your settings weren't sticking so you kept crashing in 10 minutes because you were testing the same faulting ram timings over and over, and so the last 2 hours of testing you did were all worthless. Now likely it means only the last 2 tests you did were meaningless, but you don't know. So to be sure, you gotta do a CMOS reset everytime and then apply the profile, to make sure of bios changes you are testing.

However F15 bios' have way more ram memory options, so it's sort of a plus and minus. I'd only use F15Q (or any F15 bios) if you are doing RAM overclocks and messing with sub timings. Otherwise stick with F14.

I thought this was only an issue with F15q (the latest official beta bios) but I've been having it with F15r (not as bad, but it has been happening a lot today to me as I test ram overclocks).

Has anyone used the ability to set different RAM timings to each channel? I have 2 kits of RAM that are different (exact same IC though, but they are definitely binned differently!). Basically, I had 2x2gb of ram 996902, I tested it and all the subs very thoroughly that I have 35+ hour stability on 2400mhz Cl8-12-8-28 with extremely tight subs (and every sub was tested to the tightest it'd go).

I just bought some new 2x2gb of the same exact IC, but it's not binned as well. I've currently been trying to play with setting the channel with the weaker RAM to lower timings, like 9-13-9-33 with loose subs... I'm not really having a lot of luck so wondering if you guys do that, or would it be better for stability if I set both channels to same timings?

Please, someone who knows for sure. I'm aware that this is tedious and might not be worth it for you, but for me it is (i'll be using this system for a long time, and I do RAM tasks that especially appreciate ram overclocks).


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> Somewhere around there. I need 1.25 on my UD3H..


1.28 4.5

1.25 4.4


----------



## Belial

I needed over 1.33 for 4.5 on one of my ivies. The motherboard in question didn't do over 1.33 so I'm not sure what the chip would've needed for it. Another chip of mine required 1.42 for 4.6. Most chips are badly binned, 1.25 for 4.5 is common.


----------



## BeattieGFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> F15Q is beta so it has a few bugs. I noticed that with F15Q when doing RAM overclocks they don't always stick, and I've had a few profiles I've made dissapear. It kinda sucks because to really be sure you basically gotta CMOS reset and then apply a profile you created prior, to make sure your changes stick. I mean it really sucks you spend 2 hours testing different RAM timings, and then you realize your settings weren't sticking so you kept crashing in 10 minutes because you were testing the same faulting ram timings over and over, and so the last 2 hours of testing you did were all worthless. Now likely it means only the last 2 tests you did were meaningless, but you don't know. So to be sure, you gotta do a CMOS reset everytime and then apply the profile, to make sure of bios changes you are testing.
> 
> However F15 bios' have way more ram memory options, so it's sort of a plus and minus. I'd only use F15Q (or any F15 bios) if you are doing RAM overclocks and messing with sub timings. Otherwise stick with F14.
> 
> I thought this was only an issue with F15q (the latest official beta bios) but I've been having it with F15r (not as bad, but it has been happening a lot today to me as I test ram overclocks).
> 
> Has anyone used the ability to set different RAM timings to each channel? I have 2 kits of RAM that are different (exact same IC though, but they are definitely binned differently!). Basically, I had 2x2gb of ram 996902, I tested it and all the subs very thoroughly that I have 35+ hour stability on 2400mhz Cl8-12-8-28 with extremely tight subs (and every sub was tested to the tightest it'd go).
> 
> I just bought some new 2x2gb of the same exact IC, but it's not binned as well. I've currently been trying to play with setting the channel with the weaker RAM to lower timings, like 9-13-9-33 with loose subs... I'm not really having a lot of luck so wondering if you guys do that, or would it be better for stability if I set both channels to same timings?
> 
> Please, someone who knows for sure. I'm aware that this is tedious and might not be worth it for you, but for me it is (i'll be using this system for a long time, and I do RAM tasks that especially appreciate ram overclocks).


Great help, thanks very much mate!!


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

my i5-2500 is weak, needs 1.30 for 4.2, and LLC level takes that to 1.32, otherwise it fails P95 when it drops under 1.30


----------



## Scott1541

My 3570K needs 1.27v for 4.4GHz, 1.325+ for 4.5. I don't have an exact voltage for 4.5 as I've never really stability tested, just bumping the voltage up when I encounter instability.

Whilst I can run at 4.5 with alright temps, I think I'm just going to keep it at 4.4GHz for the lower voltage and lower temps. It's not like 100MHz will make much difference


----------



## SDBolts619

My 3770k is running 1.270 VCore (which has vdroop down to 1.260 under load) and is perfectly stable. The needed VCore for stability is much more of a function of the individual CPU than it is of the motherboard it's operating on.


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

can't wait to try an i5-4670k in June, hope I get a good chip this time


----------



## coolhandluke41

my 3770K needs 1.32v for 5.0 ..


----------



## Belial

^ That's insane but is that really 24/7 stable? I remember you saying how stupid people are for testing for 24 hours so... I mean you still got at least a very good chip (so let's say it takes .2v more than that to be 24 hours prime stable with no whea errors) but I'd love to know how stable that is. I mean I can do gaming and such on less than 1.4v.
Quote:


> my i5-2500 is weak, needs 1.30 for 4.2, and LLC level takes that to 1.32, otherwise it fails P95 when it drops under 1.30


Hmmm that doesn't really sound right. Can you do a more 'normal' overclock like see what voltage you need for 4.5? 1.32v for 4.2 (which is probably more like 1.35 max voltage since software is inaccurate and your _true_ voltage is going to be a bit higher) just sounds like something is wrong.
Quote:


> My 3570K needs 1.27v for 4.4GHz, 1.325+ for 4.5. I don't have an exact voltage for 4.5 as I've never really stability tested, just bumping the voltage up when I encounter instability.
> 
> Whilst I can run at 4.5 with alright temps, I think I'm just going to keep it at 4.4GHz for the lower voltage and lower temps. It's not like 100MHz will make much difference


Then you are probably nowhere close to stable. I can game under a good .1v less than what I really need to be stable. It all depends on what kind of user you are though. I'm a streamer, so it's very very important for me to test for 30+ hours on an overclock, as it's just unacceptable to crash when streaming with a live audience that'll switch streams just because you paused the game. And, I use some of the slower presets, which will make a system that passed 24 hours of prime95 but isn't quite rock stable, crash in seconds. So stability is important to me. Plus, overclocking every little bit helps in a heavily memory dependent, multi-threaded application like streaming which will bring an i7 to it's knees (but any modern quadcore can stream, i streamed HD just fine on my athlon ii x4, but an i7 is obviously lightyears ahead of it especially with a good overclock).


----------



## Sin0822

mine needs 1.85v for 6.6


----------



## r0ach

Soooooo what's taking so long for a new non-beta UD5H bios. Was Q version forever, now stuck at R now.


----------



## KSIMP88

Sure why not. in?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> hello OCN. i have a weird issue. my HDD appears in safely remove hardware. i think i messed up while installing drivers. please point me to the ones that really matter, I've the UD3H and i installed. the VIA and Intel USB3, The Via sound, and the onboard gpu. i installed the marvel controller and removed it..
> 
> how can i fix this. thanks


That's SATA hot-plugging. If you disable that for your HDDs in the bios, the disks won't show up in the Safely Remove Hardware thingy in Windows.


----------



## mike.dp.05

Is UP5 really worth the extra $50 over the UD5H? Is the new Ultra Durable 5 and newer VRMs worth it? Am I going to see any difference while OCing to about 4.5-4.6ghZ?

Also, does the UD5H or UP5 have some sort of instant boot or instant on function seen on other boards like ASUS, Asrock?

I really don't know if I should go with the UP5. I'm just looking at it because of it's better looking color scheme but also saw the reviews about it's compatibility with certain PSUs. I really need info about PSU compatibility with the UP5 as I can't risk it. I'm going to bring the motherboard to the Philippines where I have my Corsair TX850W (not the v2 or M version). Thanks.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike.dp.05*
> 
> Is UP5 really worth the extra $50 over the UD5H? Is the new Ultra Durable 5 and newer VRMs worth it? Am I going to see any difference while OCing to about 4.5-4.6ghZ?
> 
> Also, does the UD5H or UP5 have some sort of instant boot or instant on function seen on other boards like ASUS, Asrock?
> 
> I really don't know if I should go with the UP5. I'm just looking at it because of it's better looking color scheme but also saw the reviews about it's compatibility with certain PSUs. I really need info about PSU compatibility with the UP5 as I can't risk it. I'm going to bring the motherboard to the Philippines where I have my Corsair TX850W (not the v2 or M version). Thanks.


I like the UD5H more, for a well rounded rig. UD5H has better onboard audio, which is important to me. Both will get you 4.5/4.6 easily. The UP5 has better VRM's, but it's not a huge difference, and with your desired OC results, it won't matter. And the UD5H is cheaper. I wouldn't sweat the Ultra Durable 5, either. It's not much different than Ultra Durable 4, which is already solid as hell.

And your Corsair PSU will work fine on both boards. No incompatibility issues to speak of.

Instant boot is a "marketing" feature by ASRock and Asus. It's more of an advanced sleep mode. I wouldn't consider that specific feature when buying a board. It's nothing special, just get either of the Gigabytes and you'll be happy. Good Luck!


----------



## mike.dp.05

Planning to get the UD5H. Any problems on the UD5H that I should be aware of? Compatibility issues on PSU (UP5 TH has according to some newegg reviews). Is the UP5 TH worth it extra $50 over the UD5H?


----------



## DeXel

Every board has compatibility issue with some PSUs. You won't know unless you try. Even two samples of the same PSU model may give different results with the same motherboard.

UD5H and UP5 have the same audio. According to benchmarks on techpowerup, UP5 audio performs better as well.

Overall UP5 worth the price difference because its covered with WiFi adapter which is $30 of value by itself. It comes down to whether you need it or not.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> UD5H and UP5 have the same audio. According to benchmarks on techpowerup, UP5 audio performs better as well.


Whoops, sorry about that.


----------



## Tim Milano

Am I allowed to ask several questions I have on my mind even if they might've already been answered?
I have the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H motherboard


----------



## barkeater

ask away


----------



## mike.dp.05

Guys, I just ordered UD5H from Amazon.com. Anyone ordered from them before? I just wanna know because I want the newer revision 1.1 board. Can I return it if ever and have an exchange for a 1.1 revision board?


----------



## Sin0822

you will most likely get 1.1


----------



## Tim Milano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> ask away


Ok ummmm
I have the following specs:
GTX660TI gigabyte sc
Kingston hyper x 120gb SSD for operation system and programs
2TB WD GREEN for storage
Intel i7 3770k with normal fan
Thermaltake overseer case - 3 fans - #-pin
and a thermaltake 800 watt psu
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H
LG dvdv drive
and Kingston 2x4gb 16000mhz ram

So what do I change in the bios, to overclock? I've read stuff on overclock......but just wondering with having the same Motherboard, I can get an Idea on how far it'll go....
And yes I know I need a aftermarket Fan upgrade. Either the popular Hyper 212-Evo by CoolerMAster ~$35 AUS. Or the corsair liquid cooling h100 - ~$140 AUS. I think thats the best one out at the moment?
OR what other fans are good choices?

And whats the deal with Thermal paste? Does the brands matter or are they all the same?
And is there any way to adjust my Fans speed because they are 3-pin and the motherboard has 4-pins? I have searched the thread on this a little....
That's all for now, thanks.


----------



## deepor

@Tim Milano:

This guide uses a Gigabyte board and you can use anything you read there for the GA-Z77X-D3H: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

About how far it'll go, it depends purely on how lucky you got with your CPU. The board itself is very good and won't hold any overclock back.

I'm not sure the Hyper 212 Evo is really that good. If you can get Thermalright coolers in Australia, look at those. The True Spirit 120 Rev.A is pretty similar in price to the Hyper 212 Evo and is at least as good. Those coolers are about 25 EUR where I'm from. If you go up a little with the price, Thermalright sells much better coolers for about 40-50 EUR (True Spirit 140 and HR-02 Macho). You'll have to look up if they fit in your case regarding their height. Also look at what happens at 60-80 EUR. That's where good deals on Noctua NH-D14 and Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E and the big Zalman with three fans should be.

Thermal paste can make a big difference. The name of the thermal paste that comes with your cooler should be mentioned somewhere in the documentation or marketing materials. You can try to find that exact paste in a review and look at comparisons. Perhaps you're already getting something good with the cooler you'll buy.

You can use both 3-pin and 4-pin fans on the CPU fan header of the GA-Z77X-D3H. 3-pin has to be controlled through voltage. You can change the CPU fan header to use voltage instead of PWM in the BIOS. It's on the same page where you can change the fan speeds.

For the rest of the fan headers of the board, the manual mentions if they can be used to control the fan speeds. The first fan header is the only one that can use voltage to control a 3-pin fan, the other ones all need 4-pin PWM fans if you want to control them. I think you can only control all fans simultaneously in a program like SpeedFan on the GA-Z77X-D3H. You can't change each fan's speed individually.


----------



## alter ego 5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey man whats up. So as the guy above said A6 or really Ab as there is no top bar to make it a 6, means you are in the UEFI. if you see nothing on the screen then there is something wrong with your GPU configuration, however if youa re in the UEFI and you have code Ab or A6 then everything is good, nothing bad.
> 
> Now your USB drives can replace HDDs and SSDs in the boot order. To get over this, under BIOS Features menu, find the boot selection options, BUT go into this option: HDD BBSE Priorities, if you have other devices then you wont ever see your HDD in the boot menu until you go into the BBSE priorities menu and change it to be the first one int he list.


hi there
thank you for your prompt reply in helping me.
i have done as what you have suggested, however i still could not find my hd in the bios. my problem is that the boot priority selection in the bios is colored yellow which means its not accessible or i could not access that menu in bios. what is wrong with my ud3h?

please help me.

thank you


----------



## KaRLiToS

I just bought this motherboard. (*UD5H*)


Is it easy to overclock?
How is the UEFI BIOS?
What is the latest BIOS for the UD5H? (F15Q on their website)


----------



## DeXel

Yea. Honestly, SB and IB are easy to OC on any stable OC capable board. It's always the same, up the voltage, up the multiplier, and play with LLC.
UEFI does what it needs to. If you want to check it out before you get your board up and running, check this.
Latest is F15r. Check this thread for latest BIOS. I wouldn't recommend using F15q, it's bad.


----------



## alter ego 5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alter ego 5150*
> 
> hi there
> thank you for your prompt reply in helping me.
> i have done as what you have suggested, however i still could not find my hd in the bios. my problem is that the boot priority selection in the bios is colored yellow which means its not accessible or i could not access that menu in bios. what is wrong with my ud3h?
> 
> please help me.
> 
> thank you


heres another thing that i observe in my ud3h, when i plug in a usb drive, i could access the boot priority selection, however when i go into the hdd bbs priority menu, it will only show the usb device which just plugged and the disable button, it would not detect the hard disk in the selection.

help help, help


----------



## Cheepnis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I spoke with Gigabyte many months ago about using DTS Connect.
> DTS Connect does not work with the audio on the UD5H, the hardware just does not support it. The only reason it's on the install disk is because it's part of a prepackaged program that they didn't bother to remove DTS Connect from.
> If you can find an old Creative DTS-610 off Ebay or wherever it will do what you want, but they are getting pretty hard to find.
> I use one to interface between my pc and the HT in another room. One of the drawbacks is that it only outputs 44.1, but it will encapsulate wav 5.1 to DTS and send along a toslink cable to an AVR capable of decoding DTS.
> 
> I'm afraid that if you want to use DTS Connect you are going to have to buy a sound card that supports it. Don't even bother with the Creative flavor of DTS Connect, it only works with certain of their sound cards.
> 
> Auzentech, Creative, and some others have sound cards that support DTS Connect.
> 
> But you should be able to use a program like PowerDVD with the right settings to achieve what you want to do.


***4/17 UPDATE***
Bought a new receiver and received it today. Onkyo TX-NR515. Now that I have an HDMI input on my receiver I am good to go. 5.1 surround sound in everything with no problems. Using HDMI from GPU for audio. Motherboard HDMI not working (probably becuase iGPU is disabled).
Only problem I have now is that the passive sub from the old system doesn't seem like it can be connected to the new receiver without an amp. Time for new speakers, I guess.
********************

***Original Post***
Unfortunately, you are correct about DTS Connect and DDL. Gigabyte tech support got back to me the following monday, telling me that there's no way to add either to my onboard audio.

A little google research has led me to believe that if I buy a new receiver that has HDMI inputs, I will be able to get 5.1 while playing most pc games. *Is this true?*

*Would I be able to output audio through a receiver from the motherboard HDMI at the same time I am outputting video from my GPU's DVI or HDMI ports?* Does anyone here have such a setup? If so, is there syncing issues between audio and video?
I assume it wouldn't be any different than I have it now, with audio coming from the mobo optical and video coming from the gpu. It's rare that I have syncing problems, and when I do, I can use the media player's software to adjust the delay.

I am thinking about getting a reconditioned Onkyo TX-NR414 https://www.shoponkyo.com/detail.cfm?productid=TX-NR414&modelid=61&group_id=1&detail=1&ext_war=1 for $240. Would I be able to do what I want with this receiver, or will I be in the same situation as I am now? *Any other recommendations?*

I have not found many sound cards that do what I want. Any other recs? I couldn't find any DTS-610s on ebay.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Tim Milano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> @Tim Milano:
> 
> This guide uses a Gigabyte board and you can use anything you read there for the GA-Z77X-D3H: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end
> 
> About how far it'll go, it depends purely on how lucky you got with your CPU. The board itself is very good and won't hold any overclock back.
> 
> I'm not sure the Hyper 212 Evo is really that good. If you can get Thermalright coolers in Australia, look at those. The True Spirit 120 Rev.A is pretty similar in price to the Hyper 212 Evo and is at least as good. Those coolers are about 25 EUR where I'm from. If you go up a little with the price, Thermalright sells much better coolers for about 40-50 EUR (True Spirit 140 and HR-02 Macho). You'll have to look up if they fit in your case regarding their height. Also look at what happens at 60-80 EUR. That's where good deals on Noctua NH-D14 and Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E and the big Zalman with three fans should be.
> 
> Thermal paste can make a big difference. The name of the thermal paste that comes with your cooler should be mentioned somewhere in the documentation or marketing materials. You can try to find that exact paste in a review and look at comparisons. Perhaps you're already getting something good with the cooler you'll buy.
> 
> You can use both 3-pin and 4-pin fans on the CPU fan header of the GA-Z77X-D3H. 3-pin has to be controlled through voltage. You can change the CPU fan header to use voltage instead of PWM in the BIOS. It's on the same page where you can change the fan speeds.
> 
> For the rest of the fan headers of the board, the manual mentions if they can be used to control the fan speeds. The first fan header is the only one that can use voltage to control a 3-pin fan, the other ones all need 4-pin PWM fans if you want to control them. I think you can only control all fans simultaneously in a program like SpeedFan on the GA-Z77X-D3H. You can't change each fan's speed individually.


Wow thats so much useful information thanks heaps!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheepnis*
> 
> *PowerDVD can be used to play pc games with 5.1 surround sound???*
> 
> Unfortunately, you are correct about DTS Connect and DDL. Gigabyte tech support got back to me the following monday, telling me that there's no way to add either to my onboard audio.
> 
> A little google research has led me to believe that if I buy a new receiver that has HDMI inputs, I will be able to get 5.1 while playing most pc games. *Is this true?*
> 
> *Would I be able to output audio through a receiver from the motherboard HDMI at the same time I am outputting video from my GPU's DVI or HDMI ports?* Does anyone here have such a setup? If so, is there syncing issues between audio and video?
> I assume it wouldn't be any different than I have it now, with audio coming from the mobo optical and video coming from the gpu. It's rare that I have syncing problems, and when I do, I can use the media player's software to adjust the delay.
> 
> I am thinking about getting a reconditioned Onkyo TX-NR414 https://www.shoponkyo.com/detail.cfm?productid=TX-NR414&modelid=61&group_id=1&detail=1&ext_war=1 for $240. Would I be able to do what I want with this receiver, or will I be in the same situation as I am now? *Any other recommendations?*
> 
> I have not found many sound cards that do what I want. Any other recs? I couldn't find any DTS-610s on ebay.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


I don't know about PowerDVD and games, I was thinking 5.1 music from the optical out. When it comes to games (I'm not a big gamer) I use the analog outs to an AVR for 5.1 output.

As for HDMI, that's the setup I use on my HTPC. It has a HD6450 low profile card and I bitstream to my Onkyo AVR via HDMI. It's easy to do with an AMD graphics card, I don't know about the Nvidia cards as I've never owned one.
The video card passes the hi res signal untouched (bitstream) .
On my HTPC I usually use Arcsoft TMT for listening to High res music/movies, although I sometimes use Windows MCE to listen to Hi res music in .mkv format with the proper codecs installed.

Probably get more help with all this either in the HTPC section or some of the HTPC forums on the net.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alter ego 5150*
> 
> heres another thing that i observe in my ud3h, when i plug in a usb drive, i could access the boot priority selection, however when i go into the hdd bbs priority menu, it will only show the usb device which just plugged and the disable button, it would not detect the hard disk in the selection.
> 
> help help, help


I would try another SATA plug or another SATA cable, make sure your SATA power is working as well, because the board isn't detecting the drive at all







.


----------



## africandavid

Hey guys, I Recently started my OC on this board, i've read quite a bit of this thread and others but am still not sure about the llc voltage.
If I recall the default voltage is set at 1.8v.
Does anybody know how low I can go to bring down temps a little.
Right now i'm running at 4.5ghz idling at 34-38c and 75-80c under load.
I'm very busy and cannot sit at my system to tweak all day long and prime test after each change.
I would appreciate a little help.
Thanks


----------



## panther427

Just built my first computer using a UD3H. Loving it so far.


----------



## alter ego 5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> I would try another SATA plug or another SATA cable, make sure your SATA power is working as well, because the board isn't detecting the drive at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


i've done that but so far still have no luck with my ud3h detecting my hd.
any other ideas out there guys?

help help help


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I just bought this motherboard. (*UD5H*)
> 
> 
> Is it easy to overclock?
> How is the UEFI BIOS?
> What is the latest BIOS for the UD5H? (F15Q on their website)


As good as it gets when it comes to CPU overclocking. Software overclocking tools need to be improved and more user friendly. Not that good with memory overclocking, you will be limited.


----------



## mike.dp.05

Guys, i don't have my cooler but i recently bought ud5h and an i7 3770k. I'm having a auto stock voltage of about 1.06v for the 3.7ghz stock speed. Do i have a good chip?


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike.dp.05*
> 
> Guys, i don't have my cooler but i recently bought ud5h and an i7 3770k. I'm having a auto stock voltage of about 1.06v for the 3.7ghz stock speed. Do i have a good chip?


It's no way of knowing on auto volts man.


----------



## Kiwijunglist

I've seen quite a few posts asking about the fan control on the GA-Z77X-UD5H motherboard

If you install speed fan then

Fan Labelling:

Fan 1 - CPU ; Monitor RPM + Control
Fan 2 - SYS1 ; Monitor RPM + Control
Fan 3 - SYS2 ; Monitor RPM only
Fan 4 - SYS3 ; Monitor RPM only
Fan 5 - N/A

Speed Control:

PWM1 - CPU
PWM2 - SYS1 (This can control the speed of both PWM and 3 pin fans using voltage control)
PWM3 - CPU

You have to enable speed control in the advanced features-chip-ITF8728F. I like to set PWM1 + PWM2 = Software Control and PWM3 = Smart Guardian. Remember to tick Remember settings for each of the PWM controls.

If you install easy tune 6 you can also only control CPU + SYS1 fan, even with the latest update.

I have not checked which SYS headers are effected via bios settings


----------



## Scott1541

IMO Asus's fan control tech is superior, especially compared to the slightly lower end Z77X boards.


----------



## Kiwijunglist

Yes, definitely, If you want to control more than 1 motherboard fan header then don't choose a gigabyte board. My other gigabyte board also could only software control a single fan header.


----------



## Scott1541

At least they give you one controllable chassis fan header







They could have been evil and only allowed voltage control on the CPU fan header.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiwijunglist*
> 
> I've seen quite a few posts asking about the fan control on the GA-Z77X-UD5H motherboard
> 
> If you install speed fan then
> 
> Fan Labelling:
> 
> Fan 1 - CPU ; Monitor RPM + Control
> Fan 2 - SYS1 ; Monitor RPM + Control
> Fan 3 - SYS2 ; Monitor RPM only
> Fan 4 - SYS3 ; Monitor RPM only
> Fan 5 - N/A
> 
> Speed Control:
> 
> PWM1 - CPU
> PWM2 - SYS1 (This can control the speed of both PWM and 3 pin fans using voltage control)
> PWM3 - CPU
> 
> You have to enable speed control in the advanced features-chip-ITF8728F. I like to set PWM1 + PWM2 = Software Control and PWM3 = Smart Guardian. Remember to tick Remember settings for each of the PWM controls.
> 
> If you install easy tune 6 you can also only control CPU + SYS1 fan, even with the latest update.
> 
> I have not checked which SYS headers are effected via bios settings


Pwm2 controller actually controls Sys_fan headers 1,2 & 3. In this example header 1 runs a Silverstone AP181 fan, header2 is running an Akasa Apache PWM fan and header 3 is running a Swiftech MCP35X PWM controlled pump.


----------



## Kiwijunglist

Not on my machine










Untitled.png 13k .png file


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiwijunglist*
> 
> Not on my machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Untitled.png 13k .png file


Do you have PWM fans connected to headers 2 and 3, they can not control 3-pin fans.


----------



## BeattieGFC

Anybody have any problems with the sound cutting out after a few minutes? Also, I get a sound every few seconds like there is a USB device being plugged in...


----------



## BeattieGFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeattieGFC*
> 
> Anybody have any problems with the sound cutting out after a few minutes? Also, I get a sound every few seconds like there is a USB device being plugged in...


Re-installing the drivers has sorted it


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I just bought this motherboard. (*UD5H*)
> 
> 
> Is it easy to overclock?
> How is the UEFI BIOS?
> What is the latest BIOS for the UD5H? (F15Q on their website)


Great choice man ,you will like it - rocking my UD5H since release (F14 bios are the best )


----------



## Kiwijunglist

Nope I have 3 pin fans on SYS1,2,3 - It seems strange that they let you voltage control SYS1 but not SYS2+3?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiwijunglist*
> 
> Nope I have 3 pin fans on SYS1,2,3 - It seems strange that they let you voltage control SYS1 but not SYS2+3?


That's how it works anyway, it's also shown in the manual.


----------



## inedenimadam

anybody have experience with the mini gigas? I need to rebuild after an electrical surge that took out several components. The RAM and CPU are about all that survived, and I am thinking about rebuilding in small form factor, and looking stern in the Giga direction because of the hackintosh compatibility. Will be overclocking to 4.5, my chip does it at 1.088 and I am delidded. Looking in the node 605 direction but not solid on that. Just don't want to do another mid tower and definatley want a giga...will be doing single GPU setup, which also got fried, so that is up in the air, but most likely a 660ish area.

So what board should I get?


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Do you have PWM fans connected to headers 2 and 3, they can not control 3-pin fans.


Quote
The speedfan is software controlling my three D14 fans on cpu_fan, sys_fan 1 and sys_fan 2, but all of them are pwm fans








The Gigabyte mobos are controlling however two fans in voltage mode either


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Quote
> The speedfan is software controlling my three D14 fans on cpu_fan, sys_fan 1 and sys_fan 2, but all of them are pwm fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Gigabyte mobos are controlling however two fans in voltage mode either


Of course PWM fans can be controlled by voltage also, even though rpm range is usually a bit different compared to PWM control. You could set cpu_fan header to PWM mode in bios and connect other fans to headers 2 and 3, that way they all should have same speed at same Pwm setting of Speedfan.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Quote
> The speedfan is software controlling my three D14 fans on cpu_fan, sys_fan 1 and sys_fan 2, but all of them are pwm fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Gigabyte mobos are controlling however two fans in voltage mode either
> 
> 
> 
> Of course PWM fans can be controlled by voltage also, even though rpm range is usually a bit different compared to PWM control. You could set cpu_fan header to PWM mode in bios and connect other fans to headers 2 and 3, that way they all should have same speed at same Pwm setting of Speedfan.
Click to expand...

I know
However all of the three fans are yes, pwm but they're different fans
I do control (via software, voltage speedfan) the first two but it seems I can't control the third one








Does the speedfan override the bios settings?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> I know
> However all of the three fans are yes, pwm but they're different fans
> I do control (via software, voltage speedfan) the first two but it seems I can't control the third one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the speedfan override the bios settings?


Yes, Speedfan does override bios settings and Sys_fan headers are controlled together so if you have fans with different rpm ranges on them those fans will all run at different speeds.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> I know
> However all of the three fans are yes, pwm but they're different fans
> I do control (via software, voltage speedfan) the first two but it seems I can't control the third one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the speedfan override the bios settings?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Speedfan does override bios settings and Sys_fan headers are controlled together so if you have fans with different rpm ranges on them those fans will all run at different speeds.
Click to expand...

That's correct
And yes, you're right before, the speedfan very settings (rpm) for the second fan (sys_fan 1) does apply to the third one too (sys_fan 2)
Cool


----------



## OmarCCX

I installed Windows 8, and tried to install the official drivers for the VIA sound chipset and the Atheros LAN.

When I installed Windows 8 they were working fine without any drivers, but after installing them they stopped working.

I tried uninstalling and re-installing them, but that didn't help. I ended up re-installing the OS and stayed with the Windows drivers. Am I the only one with this issue on a Z77X UD3H?


----------



## Belial

So which USB ports on the ud5h are the ones that are the gigabyte on/off charge super powerful ones? Are the usb 3.0 ports more powerful for charging?


----------



## Sin0822

USB 3.0 spec requires higher current, but the on/off charge port by default always give out the power. USB 2.0 is 500mA power, and USB 3.0 is 900mA power, however on/off charge or any of the 3x power boards from gigabyte should be able to provide 1500mA, the on/off charge port will provide that power with the board off. There is no on/off charge USb 3.0 yet because of some specs which make it difficult, but in the near future there will be.


----------



## deepor

It's the slot for the front panel USB that's colored red on its inside, Belial. I think there's something about USB3 in the standard itself, making it able to supply more juice than standard USB2, but no idea how that compares to those on/off charge enabled USB2 ports on the motherboard.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> USB 3.0 spec requires higher current, but the on/off charge port by default always give out the power. USB 2.0 is 500mA power, and USB 3.0 is 900mA power, however on/off charge or any of the 3x power boards from gigabyte should be able to provide 1500mA, the on/off charge port will provide that power with the board off. There is no on/off charge USb 3.0 yet because of some specs which make it difficult, but in the near future there will be.


I'm basically just asking where do i plug my usb phone charger. So you are saying basically plug into usb 3.0 when i'm on, and then usb 2.0 on/off when off? And which ports are the ones that are usb 2.0 on/off?

Also, I have ErP enabled, so I'm assuming I can't use usb on/off with that, right?
Quote:


> It's the slot for the front panel USB that's colored red on its inside, Belial. I think there's something about USB3 in the standard itself, making it able to supply more juice than standard USB2, but no idea how that compares to those on/off charge enabled USB2 ports on the motherboard.


Oh, okay. Lame, I dont want a usb cord hanging out the front of my case. So basically I'll plug into my usb 3.0 on the back of the board, and if i turn my system off I plug into the front headers.


----------



## gizmo83

Hi guys. Often on my ud5h i have a debug code 04. I have tried all bios but it remains. What means 04 code?


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gizmo83*
> 
> Hi guys. Often on my ud5h i have a debug code 04. I have tried all bios but it remains. What means 04 code?


The error 04 is a "PCH initialization before microcode loading".


----------



## alter ego 5150

help anyone knows wahts wrong with my mobo?


----------



## alter ego 5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alter ego 5150*
> 
> hi guys, i need help with my new rig.
> i have a gigabyte ga z77x ud3h motherboard, my problem is my motherboard does not detect my hard disc drive and my dvd drive. motherboard codes shows A6, if i try to format my drive using usb flash drive the bios will detect the usb drive but when i got to the drive selection in which to format i does not show any drive.
> i have tried changing sata cables, power supply, changing hard disc still no luck, my motherboard would not detect my hard disk.
> i have tried updating the bios to f18 still no luck again.
> 
> can anyone help me please.....
> i have contacted gigabyte support but they tell me to just change sata cables, psu. etc......
> i have tried changing bios settings, resetting bios, loading optimized defaults nothing happened.
> 
> please help me guys.
> thanks a lot


----------



## arrow0309

This new cpu that I have seems better than the previous one











Still on the Xmp profile (cpu pll: 1.55v, dvid +0.040, llc medium, vcore response fast)
Should I try to raise a bit the Vtt or Imc voltages (on auto right now) for some memory oc?
Gonna try a cas 8 (1866) with 1.6v and auto volts (Vccio, vccsa)


----------



## Ash2097

Hi,

I got this board (Z77X-UD3H) a few months back and always had a couple of issues which are now getting on my nerves. I get an issue roughly every 1 out of 3 boots where it will power on for roughly 10 seconds then reboot to other bios B for another 10 seconds and then 10 seconds later back to bios A then again to B and then will finally boot to desktop on bios A.

I have also had issues where in won't store a overclock, it will just keep loading default settings, even when I try loading a overclocked profile that has worked before it will just load default settings sometimes clearing the bios will fix this other times I have had to flash it.

Any ideas? I have tried the latest fully working bios and the even newer beta bios but have the same issues.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I got this board (Z77X-UD3H) a few months back and always had a couple of issues which are now getting on my nerves. I get an issue roughly every 1 out of 3 boots where it will power on for roughly 10 seconds then reboot to other bios B for another 10 seconds and then 10 seconds later back to bios A then again to B and then will finally boot to desktop on bios A.
> 
> I have also had issues where in won't store a overclock, it will just keep loading default settings, even when I try loading a overclocked profile that has worked before it will just load default settings sometimes clearing the bios will fix this other times I have had to flash it.
> 
> Any ideas? I have tried the latest fully working bios and the even newer beta bios but have the same issues.


Sounds like your bios chips are messing up. Have you used the recovery bios and OC'ed that one to see how it reacts?


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I installed Windows 8, and tried to install the official drivers for the VIA sound chipset and the Atheros LAN.
> 
> When I installed Windows 8 they were working fine without any drivers, but after installing them they stopped working.
> 
> I tried uninstalling and re-installing them, but that didn't help. I ended up re-installing the OS and stayed with the Windows drivers. Am I the only one with this issue on a Z77X UD3H?


You're not alone, I'm not sure if Giga even has the W8 certification of their mobos as yet.


----------



## Scott1541

I'm pretty sure my D3H box had the windows 8 certified logo on. I haven't experienced a single issue with it and windows 8 either, everything has been working flawlessly


----------



## panther427

My issues with my board have been the gigabyte software.


----------



## Scott1541

I've used easytune 6, the audio drivers, LAN driver, storage drivers and USB drivers all from the gigabyte website and I've had no problems what so ever.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alter ego 5150*


Hey Alterego5150 go into your UEFI>BIOS Feature>Hard Drive BBS Priorities, click on that and go inside and set your boot drive first. If you stick in a USb drive it will take over BBS priorites and be the first thing the board boots from.

GB does have windows 8 cert, you have to update your UEFI to get that cert tho, as the UEFi will add some features for windows 8 like fast boot.


----------



## Belial

So what exactly is slew rate? Is it just another timing like trfc and trcd and trrd and rrsr? I read something that made it sound like if you have an unstable ram overclock, you use slew rate to basically downclock the ram during boot so you can make it to windows, but then i read something that made it seem like it was just another timing... i just know it has something to do with PSC, and I have 2 PSC kits in my system that I'm having a lot of difficulty overclocking for a 24/7 overclock.

I'm just curious how slew rate pertains to a 24/7 overclock, not for a benching one. Does higher/lower slew rate result in slower ram (obviously, im aware the impact of timings is minor)? Is it like trcd for psc in the sense that you can lower it and then raise everything else super far?

thanks. I'm assuming max voltage for psc is 1.75v, im currently using 1.8v because i need that extra bit for 2400mhz and oh well.


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> I've used easytune 6, the audio drivers, LAN driver, storage drivers and USB drivers all from the gigabyte website and I've had no problems what so ever.


Out of fear of having to re-install Windows 8, I won't try to install the LAN and the audio drivers.

I don't care about the audio driver that much, I'll be getting a DAC quite soon.


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> Out of fear of having to re-install Windows 8, I won't try to install the LAN and the audio drivers.
> 
> I don't care about the audio driver that much, I'll be getting a DAC quite soon.


I'm actually not using the audio drivers right now as the stupid box that pops up every time I plug me headphones in annoys me. Before I reinstalled a couple of weeks ago I was still using it though. I think most of the drivers gigabyte has provided are quite redundant anyway though as the default windows 8 ones work very well, or at least they seem to in my experience.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So what exactly is slew rate? Is it just another timing like trfc and trcd and trrd and rrsr? I read something that made it sound like if you have an unstable ram overclock, you use slew rate to basically downclock the ram during boot so you can make it to windows, but then i read something that made it seem like it was just another timing... i just know it has something to do with PSC, and I have 2 PSC kits in my system that I'm having a lot of difficulty overclocking for a 24/7 overclock.
> 
> I'm just curious how slew rate pertains to a 24/7 overclock, not for a benching one. Does higher/lower slew rate result in slower ram (obviously, im aware the impact of timings is minor)? Is it like trcd for psc in the sense that you can lower it and then raise everything else super far?
> 
> thanks. I'm assuming max voltage for psc is 1.75v, im currently using 1.8v because i need that extra bit for 2400mhz and oh well.


Slew rate isn't a timing, howeve rit does seem to have an impact on performance.

Just test it for yourself, if you have Hynix or BBSE or Micron based kit then don't mess with it, but if you have samsung or PSC then use slew rate above 1, like 2 or 3 or even 5 or 6. Slew rate is a must for OCing those types of sticks, but BBSE likes slew rate 1.


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> I'm actually not using the audio drivers right now as the stupid box that pops up every time I plug me headphones in annoys me. Before I reinstalled a couple of weeks ago I was still using it though. I think most of the drivers gigabyte has provided are quite redundant anyway though as the default windows 8 ones work very well, or at least they seem to in my experience.


Yeah, the Marvel and the VIA drivers look more like bloatware than drivers. ha


----------



## Belial

So there's 2 audio drivers on the gigabyte website, I just did a fresh install. What is the creative sb x2 thing? or the sound blaster panel/thx trustudio programs it pulls up, do I need those? I'm using just 2 speakers hooked up to like an old 90s 3 cd player with a single red/white line to microphone thingy plugged into my motherboard back panel. It's not surround sound.

Like which am i using, the creative sound or the realtek one? Im a bit confused on that

And when I try to install the atheros driver, it says "installer cant find atheros AR81 Family ethernet controller on your system'. Not that i ever use that ethernet port but why is it saying that, i never had that issue before ;/
Quote:


> Slew rate isn't a timing, howeve rit does seem to have an impact on performance.
> 
> Just test it for yourself, if you have Hynix or BBSE or Micron based kit then don't mess with it, but if you have samsung or PSC then use slew rate above 1, like 2 or 3 or even 5 or 6. Slew rate is a must for OCing those types of sticks, but BBSE likes slew rate 1.


Yea, I have 4x2gb PSC XDZ014A3G-A/XDZ015. Though they are different kits they are the same exact IC (just made 1 week separate, they are binned differently though). Sorry if I wasn't clear, I swore I stated in my post that I was using PSC ram.

I have no idea what you mean, that it's a 'must'. What does it do? I mean you can set it from a really wide range of timings, you say yourself 5-6 but i think you are able to set it wayyy higher. What happens when you set it on the 'wrong' slew rate? Or the right one?
Quote:


> I'm actually not using the audio drivers right now as the stupid box that pops up every time I plug me headphones in annoys me. Before I reinstalled a couple of weeks ago I was still using it though. I think most of the drivers gigabyte has provided are quite redundant anyway though as the default windows 8 ones work very well, or at least they seem to in my experience.


That has nothing to do with drivers, just change the default behavior of when you plug in your headphones. The prompt that comes up I think even has an option on it for you to change default behaviors on it.


----------



## DeXel

Realtek one is a driver. Creative stuff is a software package, the most useful feature of which is Alchemy for old games that use Direct sound. Also THX has surround eq that may help in game. It's totally optional.

For Atheros issue, make sure that the NIC is enabled in BIOS, and that it shows up in device manager.


----------



## Belial

Ah, that's why it isn't showing up. Thanks. I'll keep it that way.

I was worried that like some of the realtek/thx stuff only applied to the front audio panel or something. Like the realtek is for the back motherboard plug-ins, the thx/creative stuff for the front case panel audio, or one is for speakers, one for headphones, kind of thing. I have like 5 different menus for sound and i dont know what is what, it's kinda confusing.


----------



## Belial

What are those secondary ram voltages? Termination and data and reference and a/bs... I'm interested in playing with them, but not sure what range they go to, what they are for.


----------



## sixor

new via usb driver v4 for those of us who suffer from crap usb bugs on ud3h

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html


----------



## alter ego 5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Hey Alterego5150 go into your UEFI>BIOS Feature>Hard Drive BBS Priorities, click on that and go inside and set your boot drive first. If you stick in a USb drive it will take over BBS priorites and be the first thing the board boots from.
> 
> GB does have windows 8 cert, you have to update your UEFI to get that cert tho, as the UEFi will add some features for windows 8 like fast boot.


yup done exactly just like what you said, however if i boot without the usb stick, my Hard drive BBS priorities would not show up on the bios feature. but If i boot with the USB stick plugged in my hard drive BBS priorities my usb stick will show up and recognized the usb stick but still nothing on my hard disk. i tried disabling the USB so the the priority will be the hard drive but still could not boot using my hard disk.

help help help


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> new via usb driver v4 for those of us who suffer from crap usb bugs on ud3h
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html


Nice. Good eye. HERE is the post for it, but unfortunately it doesn't give a changelog.

I hope this fixes my Logitech USB headset issue so I can have it plugged into the VIA ports. I'll report back tonight when I'm at that machine.

Edit: Sort of works, I guess... But it really doesn't.
I was still getting the disconnect/reconnect bug, so I figured I'd reinstall the Logitech drivers and software with the latest version/drivers.

I manually removed the G930 from the device manager, unplugged it and reinstalled the Logitech Gaming Software. Plug in the G930 and they work, _but_ the LGC does not recognize them. I tried the other VIA ports and windows installs the driver, they work, but LGC still does not see them. Ok, that is some progress, the last VIA drivers would just go straight to the discon/recon loop bug.

When I reinstall the LGC+drivers with the G930 plugged in and unplug them when the LGC installer asks, let the installer finish, the headset goes back to the disco/recon loop as before.







Looks like its not fixed, but now I can at least run them off the windows drivers if I wanted.

I tried changing both the 'Hand-Off' settings in the bios (OFF/OFF, On/OFF, Off/On, On/On), no luck. Back to the Intel port for my usb headset then.

Another fun fact: When I have a Madcatz Xbox360 controller plugged in the bios does not work. When trying to load the Bios it either goes to a blank screen, or a blank bios screen with borders/sections where I should see info/menus with a mouse in the center of the screen. I spent a good 30 minutes trying to fix it. I thought my bios was hosed and the chips corrupt because I couldn't load the backup bios either, or reflash, or reset defaults on either to get back into the bios to edit settings. Turned out to be the Xbox360 controller plugged into the front port of my case which is hooked to one of the aux USB headers on the UD3H.

It makes me think that a $189 mobo that isn't that old to to the market and was selling for $159 with an additional $50 off, then an in-store special with $40 off when purchased with a 3570k was so cheap because of these issues. Yes there isn't really anything wrong, it still works fine, but its got this ONE (or several) issues with the VIA USB.
Another good deal turning into a good headache.







Between this and having my last Gigabyte mobo failing a month out of warranty I think I'm done with gigabyte for my next system. Good boards buy I'm sick of dealing with stuff like this.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Nice. Good eye. HERE is the post for it, but unfortunately it doesn't give a changelog.
> 
> I hope this fixes my Logitech USB headset issue so I can have it plugged into the VIA ports. I'll report back tonight when I'm at that machine.


the new driver did not worked for me

i have this new usb bug on the ud3h (yes, more bugs on USB,)

suddenly all my usb ports stop working and i have to restart windows, even if i unplug every device they won´t come back


----------



## steve210

should i download this new Intel® Rapid Storage Technology Driver 12.6.0.1028 or do i just keep Intel® Rapid Storage Technology Driver 12.0.4.1001 WHQL


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve210*
> 
> should i download this new Intel® Rapid Storage Technology Driver 12.6.0.1028 or do i just keep Intel® Rapid Storage Technology Driver 12.0.4.1001 WHQL


yes, a must with ssd

hdd not really usefull, just to be updated


----------



## frolki

Hey guys, i was recently did some 3d rendering with my i5 3570k and got some high temps (max core temp 83C, CPU package must have been more than 75 C). Im using stock fan, no overclock. I posted on a forum to ask about the temps and someone told me that these high temps can cause damage on the motherboard, like making the solder come off or flow. Is this true? I heard many people having these max temps, even if the CPU can withstand those temps, can motherboard get damaged in the process? Should i go check if any connections on my motherboard chips are moving?
I have Z77X UD3H.


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frolki*
> 
> Hey guys, i was recently did some 3d rendering with my i5 3570k and got some high temps (max core temp 83C, CPU package must have been more than 75 C). Im using stock fan, no overclock. I posted on a forum to ask about the temps and someone told me that these high temps can cause damage on the motherboard, like making the solder come off or flow. Is this true? I heard many people having these max temps, even if the CPU can withstand those temps, can motherboard get damaged in the process? Should i go check if any connections on my motherboard chips are moving?
> I have Z77X UD3H.


Depends on the motherboard. A well built motherboard (like the UD3H) should not get damaged from CPU temps in the 70s. Your temps are at the high end of the safe range for Ivy though without shortening the life span of the chip. If you are pushing the processor for long periods of time it may be worthwhile getting a budget aftermarket cooler. Undervolting is another option to try to bring down your temps a little.


----------



## WarnerVonTron

Hi everyone,

I recently purchased the UD5H and noticed the DVI-VGA socket is slightly loose it makes a clicking sound when pressured it has a little flex to it. So is this normal has anyone else experienced it and should I return my board for another one?


----------



## steve210

i have question will this work for ud3h motherboard Intel® Management Engine Interface(MEI) Driver 9.5.0.1428


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> the new driver did not worked for me
> 
> i have this new usb bug on the ud3h (yes, more bugs on USB,)
> 
> suddenly all my usb ports stop working and i have to restart windows, even if i unplug every device they won´t come back


Here is some kind of changelog for VIA VL80x, VL81x Serie USB3.0 Controllers, drivers 4.00B :

http://www.necacom.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=7046:via-vl80x-vl81x-serie-usb30-controllers-drivers-400b&catid=88:via&Itemid=105

Personaly,I didn't try yet.


----------



## invader1964

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Here is some kind of changelog for VIA VL80x, VL81x Serie USB3.0 Controllers, drivers 4.00B :
> 
> http://www.necacom.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=7046:via-vl80x-vl81x-serie-usb30-controllers-drivers-400b&catid=88:via&Itemid=105
> 
> Personaly,I didn't try yet.


HI

I updated yesterday to the 4.00 version no issues so far on a UD3H


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frolki*
> 
> Hey guys, i was recently did some 3d rendering with my i5 3570k and got some high temps (max core temp 83C, CPU package must have been more than 75 C). Im using stock fan, no overclock. I posted on a forum to ask about the temps and someone told me that these high temps can cause damage on the motherboard, like making the solder come off or flow. Is this true? I heard many people having these max temps, even if the CPU can withstand those temps, can motherboard get damaged in the process? Should i go check if any connections on my motherboard chips are moving?
> I have Z77X UD3H.


No and dont listen to tomshardware or other bad forums. For CPU temp you go by the max core temp, don't worry about package temp. As long as it says below 90-105*C (depending on personal preference on that, really) you are fine. The stock cooler will reach the upper limits of CPU temps on stock settings, but it's nothing to be worried about.

Solder takes a lot more than 100*C to 'flow off'. And I guarantee you, that your UD3H will be a lot cooler than your CPU, given on stock cooling. There are some low quality boards that will get hotter than the CPU but not the ud3h. If you want to check for yourself, touch the VRM (google it) when you are doing 3d rendering or stress testing. If you can keep your fingers on it for more than 3 seconds than it's easily under 80*C, and the motherboard is good for at least 135*C.

Really, avoid stupid advice.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invader1964*
> 
> HI
> 
> I updated yesterday to the 4.00 version no issues so far on a UD3H


Thanks for info.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Here is some kind of changelog for VIA VL80x, VL81x Serie USB3.0 Controllers, drivers 4.00B :
> 
> http://www.necacom.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=7046:via-vl80x-vl81x-serie-usb30-controllers-drivers-400b&catid=88:via&Itemid=105
> 
> Personaly,I didn't try yet.


thanks, but there is no changelog

the driver is workign "fine" but my bugs are still there


----------



## VenG3ance

Im waiting on z77x ud5h-wb in the mail, im just wondering if the included wifi card is able to output a wireless signal if i have ethernet in the back of the pc?


----------



## frolki

Thanks a lot Belial ! !
Quote:


> I recently purchased the UD5H and noticed the DVI-VGA socket is slightly loose it makes a clicking sound when pressured it has a little flex to it.


I noticed that too on my UD3H. Maybe its that back cover that attaches to the case, but im not sure. Yes it looks it has a little flex. Although i am using the vga slot so i dont know if i have done something and damaged it... Are you using it to plug your monitor, or do you use a separate graphics card?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VenG3ance*
> 
> Im waiting on z77x ud5h-wb in the mail, im just wondering if the included wifi card is able to output a wireless signal if i have ethernet in the back of the pc?


I don't think it's a transmitter, I'm pretty sure it's just a receiver. It's not a router. I mean this is just based on my knowledge of ethernet cards, the ud5h wb is just a ud5h with a wireless card thrown in, which you can buy for like $2 on ebay. Personally I just cannibalized some 8 year old junk computer's pci legacy ethernet card, and I only have it in there for resale value, not that I actually use it.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alter ego 5150*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Alterego5150 go into your UEFI>BIOS Feature>Hard Drive BBS Priorities, click on that and go inside and set your boot drive first. If you stick in a USb drive it will take over BBS priorites and be the first thing the board boots from.
> 
> GB does have windows 8 cert, you have to update your UEFI to get that cert tho, as the UEFi will add some features for windows 8 like fast boot.
Click to expand...

What motherboards are "W8 Certified" and what's the difference between non-cert and certified?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> What motherboards are "W8 Certified" and what's the difference between non-cert and certified?


marketting (and drivers)


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Here is some kind of changelog for VIA VL80x, VL81x Serie USB3.0 Controllers, drivers 4.00B :
> 
> http://www.necacom.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=7046:via-vl80x-vl81x-serie-usb30-controllers-drivers-400b&catid=88:via&Itemid=105
> 
> Personaly,I didn't try yet.


That also allows a firmware update?

I've been keeping an eye on VIA's website, but they don't seem to update. http://www.via-labs.com/en/support/downloads.jsp#hostdriver


----------



## VenG3ance

''Personally I just cannibalized some 8 year old junk computer's pci legacy ethernet card, and I only have it in there for resale value, not that I actually use it''

hahaha i like that one


----------



## frolki

Can i use Virtu MVP feature if i use only HD 4000 GPU? Not to use the switchable graphics, but just to take advantage of the increased fps.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frolki*
> 
> Can i use Virtu MVP feature if i use only HD 4000 GPU? Not to use the switchable graphics, but just to take advantage of the increased fps.


no, it needs a gpu

still it sucks, 100% gimmick crap


----------



## twitchyzero

hey guys I am having trouble getting my bluetooth that came with the ud5h-wb working

it was perfectly fine in windows 7 x64

now I'm win 8...reinstalled with the latest Bluetooth Suite driver
everytime I tried to add new device it says this app can't open you may try refreshing your PC....I'm not ready to refresh aka reformat unless it's a last resort.

I accidently clicked remove icon so its not found under my system tray any more.

Click on settings from devices & printer does nothing.


----------



## mike.dp.05

Guys, do you recommend updating the bios? Anyone knows a good or best latest bios? And is there a best a way to update the bios? Thanks!

*using a UD5H.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike.dp.05*
> 
> Guys, do you recommend updating the bios? Anyone knows a good or best latest bios? And is there a best a way to update the bios? Thanks!
> 
> *using a UD5H.


yes update
beta here http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html
latest on official website
best way, unzip bios, put in pendrive, in bios press f1?? the bios screens will tell you, then update


----------



## mike.dp.05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> yes update
> beta here http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html
> latest on official website
> best way, unzip bios, put in pendrive, in bios press f1?? the bios screens will tell you, then update


wow thanks for the reply. So is it recommended to update always to the latest beta bios? Oh and pendrive, is just about any usb flash drive? Sorry for that newbie question.


----------



## jastro

Does anyone have trouble with quiet microphones using the microphone jacks on the UD3H?


----------



## VenG3ance

Just got a z77x ud5h in the mail, my god its nice looking. very excited. now all i need is a 3770k and ill be good to go


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike.dp.05*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> yes update
> beta here http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html
> latest on official website
> best way, unzip bios, put in pendrive, in bios press f1?? the bios screens will tell you, then update
> 
> 
> 
> wow thanks for the reply. So is it recommended to update always to the latest beta bios? Oh and pendrive, is just about any usb flash drive? Sorry for that newbie question.
Click to expand...

Yes any USB flash drive should work fine some folks call them pendrives


----------



## sixor

using this modded bios

Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H Mod

Intel® Legacy RAID for SATA - v12.6.0.1867
Intel® UEFI RAID SataDriver - v12.6.0.1867
ME Firmware 8.1.30.1350
Atheros PCIE Ethernet Controller v2.0.6.6 (05/16/12)
Atheros PCIE Ethernet Controller v2.1.1.5 (03/15/13)
Intel® PCI Accelerated SVGA BIOS 2158 PC 14.34 (11/23/2012)
Marvell 88SE91xx Adapter - BIOS Version 1.0.1.0025
Ivy E1(06A9) CPU-MicroCode Rev.17

http://www.mediafire.com/?ngheiie579x32hc
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48085-gigabyte-modified-bios-105.html

seems fine so far


----------



## r360r

Hey can anyone help me overclock my i5 3570k using GA-Z77X-UD3H? I can get it up to 4.7Ghz using the slider. But it seems to use more voltage than it needs. My target is 4.4GHZ and using as little voltage as possible. I know each chip is different so I just want to know what settings I need to be changing.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike.dp.05*
> 
> wow thanks for the reply. So is it recommended to update always to the latest beta bios? Oh and pendrive, is just about any usb flash drive? Sorry for that newbie question.


Yup, any flash/pen drive will work. Just use a rear usb 2.0 port. Front and usb 3.0 ports usually aren't recognized.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r360r*
> 
> Hey can anyone help me overclock my i5 3570k using GA-Z77X-UD3H? I can get it up to 4.7Ghz using the slider. But it seems to use more voltage than it needs. My target is 4.4GHZ and using as little voltage as possible. I know each chip is different so I just want to know what settings I need to be changing.


stop using sliders lol

use bios like a man

i have [email protected], try around that


----------



## r360r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> stop using sliders lol
> 
> use bios like a man
> 
> i have [email protected], try around that


Thats what I'm using on the main bios. But it never goes down. Its a constant 1.25. Only reason why I'm using the slider and auto cause when PC is idle the voltage goes down.

Edit: So what it comes down to is I was the max voltage on load to be 1.25 and when it's idle to be below that


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r360r*
> 
> Thats what I'm using on the main bios. But it never goes down. Its a constant 1.25. Only reason why I'm using the slider and auto cause when PC is idle the voltage goes down.
> 
> Edit: So what it comes down to is I was the max voltage on load to be 1.25 and when it's idle to be below that


That would be setup using the Offset overclock. I've played a bit with that, but haven't gotten it working correctly. For me, if I set offset on, then my peak voltage is higher than I really need. If I try to adjust the offset to compensate, I don't get enough voltage at idle and my system crashes. There's a guide to offset overclocking on a thread here, but I just decided that my system doesn't need it that bad since it's either on and in use or off...


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> stop using sliders lol
> 
> *use bios like a man*
> 
> i have [email protected], try around that


bold added by me


----------



## bustamelon

Hi Y'all. Just fired up my new build and lo and behold, humming like a top on the first try. That's rare, for me at least.








Am in the process of MemTest-ing now, but will be reading through the threads on OC pointers, etc.

3570k on a UD5H -- (I needed firewire for my old Firepod audio I/O box)


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> I have four identical PWM fans so I was able to test all four headers independently or together.
> 
> Connected to SYS_FAN1 header, a fan seems to run quite slowly, (say, 700rpm at ambient) although it is controlled with temperature.
> Connected to SYS_FAN2 header, a fan runs about twice as fast (say, 1400rpm at ambient) also controlled.
> Connected to SYS_FAN3 header, a fan runs the same as SYS_FAN2.
> Connected to SYS_FAN4 header, a fan seems to always run at full speed, uncontrolled.


Found this entry on another forum about the UD5H, and I'm trying to determine where i should plug in my radiator fans and pump, all PWM controlled. As it stands now I have them all plugged into the CPU Fan header using the Swiftech splitter, but I'd like to run my pump at a set speed. Until I can narrow down the header behavior, I can't really pull it off.

Any one have some ideas?

Edit:



What's the difference between VCC and Speed Control?


----------



## deepor

Plug the pump into SYS_FAN2 or 3 and look into SpeedFan. Leave the rest on CPU_FAN. If you also want to control case fans, that's not possible from what I've seen from Gigabyte.

On that page of the manual, the Speed Control mentioned on pin 4 means it's PWM controlled. Mentioned on pin 2 together with the +12 V means it's controlled by voltage. I don't know what VCC is. SYS_FAN1 can control a three pin fan through voltage change, SYS_FAN2 and 3 runs three pin fans at 100 %. SYS_FAN4 is always 100 %, even with PWM fans.

I'm pretty sure Sys_Fan1/2/3 are tied together, there's no way to set them individually. If you control the pump, you'll simultaneously change the speed of case fans on the other SYS_FAN headers. The best you can do is run case fans at 100 % by putting them into a SYS_FAN header that won't be able to control their speed.

There probably isn't a way to set a fixed speed in the BIOS, only a setting to change how strongly it reacts to higher temperature. If you want a set speed, you should look into SpeedFan and plug the pump into Sys_Fan2 or 3 for PWM.

With SpeedFan on Gigabyte, there's three signals to control, and there's something confusing going on with them. One of them can change the CPU_FAN signal, one can change the SYS_FAN signals, and one does both at the same time or something along those lines. I just checked on the Z77X-D3H the PC here uses, and SpeedFan is set up to not touch the "Pwm1" signal, only Pwm2 and Pwm3 are set to "software controlled". Those two seem to be CPU_FAN and SYS_FAN1/2/3 signals.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Plug the pump into SYS_FAN2 or 3 and look into SpeedFan. Leave the rest on CPU_FAN. If you also want to control case fans, that's not possible from what I've seen from Gigabyte.


Yeah, I did a bit more reading and noticed that Speedfan can only do voltage control on Gigabyte boards. I HAVE to have the pump on PWM control, will kill the warranty if it runs on anything lower than 12 volts. It's really a shame Easy Tune can only set the minimum and maximum, it's a joke, good thing I only need the pump to run at 50%. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Yeah, I did a bit more reading and noticed that Speedfan can only do voltage control on Gigabyte boards. I HAVE to have the pump on PWM control, will kill the warranty if it runs on anything lower than 12 volts. It's really a shame Easy Tune can only set the minimum and maximum, it's a joke, good thing I only need the pump to run at 50%. Thanks for the reply.


Sys_fan headers 2 & 3 *always* do PWM control regardless bios or Speedfan control. Cpu_fan header can do both voltage and PWM control, you choose which one in bios settings.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Sys_fan headers 2 & 3 *always* do PWM control regardless bios or Speedfan control. Cpu_fan header can do both voltage and PWM control, you choose which one in bios settings.


Right on, so just switch the CPU header to manual and voltage control and speedfan should allow me to dial in a nice curve? Going to have to check the length on the blocks 4 pin cable and see if I can reach sys_fan 2 or 3.


----------



## Belial

So I didn't realize this, but I can use my igpu for one monitor, and my gpu as another monitor! Awesome, right? I know my 2nd monitor isn't taking up much resources, but at 768mb my gpu is already a bit strained for VRAM, and less gpu resources taken, the better, so why not?

I'm just curious on a few things - I don't recall any options to overclock the igpu on the gigabyte board, so how do i do that? How do I change the igpu multiplier? And, what do I set the internal graphics and DVMT memory to? I have 8gb of ram, so why would I not max them out, no?

Thanks. I'm assuming max igpu voltage is 1.5v, or similar to vcore?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Right on, so just switch the CPU header to manual and voltage control and speedfan should allow me to dial in a nice curve? Going to have to check the length on the blocks 4 pin cable and see if I can reach sys_fan 2 or 3.


I thought you wanted to use PWM control ? Set cpu_fan header to voltage if you want to do voltage control and to PWM if you want to do PWM control. Speedfan will also use same control mode that you set in bios.


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So I didn't realize this, but I can use my igpu for one monitor, and my gpu as another monitor! Awesome, right? I know my 2nd monitor isn't taking up much resources, but at 768mb my gpu is already a bit strained for VRAM, and less gpu resources taken, the better, so why not?
> 
> I'm just curious on a few things - I don't recall any options to overclock the igpu on the gigabyte board, so how do i do that? How do I change the igpu multiplier? And, what do I set the internal graphics and DVMT memory to? I have 8gb of ram, so why would I not max them out, no?
> 
> Thanks. I'm assuming max igpu voltage is 1.5v, or similar to vcore?


I tried to do this ages ago on my AMD rig, but never could get it to work. I might have to get this set up now as I don't game on my second monitor at all, and I hate using nvidia inspector's power saver thing to force my 460 into the lowest power state.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Right on, so just switch the CPU header to manual and voltage control and speedfan should allow me to dial in a nice curve? Going to have to check the length on the blocks 4 pin cable and see if I can reach sys_fan 2 or 3.


Do you mean switch from Auto or PWM to voltage control in the BIOS for the CPU fan control? You shouldn't do that if you have a PWM fan plugged into CPU_FAN. SpeedFan messages a percentage to the chip that controls stuff, but if that chip uses CPU_FAN in voltage control mode, the percentage controls the voltage. With voltage, a low percentage will shut the fan off or keep it from turning on. With PWM, 0 % will make the fan run on its lowest speed, so no mistakes are possible.

You can basically ignore the settings in the BIOS about manually setting the temperature to PWM curve. It only matters for booting. The moment SpeedFan is done loading, it will take over the signals you've told it to take over. If you don't know SpeedFan, you really have to read a guide with screenshots. There's no way to guess how to make it work. Before you've set it up, SpeedFan will only display RPM and temperature, the percentage controls will simply not work.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So I didn't realize this, but I can use my igpu for one monitor, and my gpu as another monitor! Awesome, right? I know my 2nd monitor isn't taking up much resources, but at 768mb my gpu is already a bit strained for VRAM, and less gpu resources taken, the better, so why not?
> 
> I'm just curious on a few things - I don't recall any options to overclock the igpu on the gigabyte board, so how do i do that? How do I change the igpu multiplier? And, what do I set the internal graphics and DVMT memory to? I have 8gb of ram, so why would I not max them out, no?
> 
> Thanks. I'm assuming max igpu voltage is 1.5v, or similar to vcore?
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to do this ages ago on my AMD rig, but never could get it to work. I might have to get this set up now as I don't game on my second monitor at all, and I hate using nvidia inspector's power saver thing to force my 460 into the lowest power state.
Click to expand...

Even better - I can plug BOTH my monitors into my igpu, letting my GPU go into full computational workload. Then, when I want to game, I simply stop the work and plug my main monitor into my gpu.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Do you mean switch from Auto or PWM to voltage control in the BIOS for the CPU fan control? You shouldn't do that if you have a PWM fan plugged into CPU_FAN. SpeedFan messages a percentage to the chip that controls stuff, but if that chip uses CPU_FAN in voltage control mode, the percentage controls the voltage. With voltage, a low percentage will shut the fan off or keep it from turning on. With PWM, 0 % will make the fan run on its lowest speed, so no mistakes are possible.
> 
> You can basically ignore the settings in the BIOS about manually setting the temperature to PWM curve. It only matters for booting. The moment SpeedFan is done loading, it will take over the signals you've told it to take over. If you don't know SpeedFan, you really have to read a guide with screenshots. There's no way to guess how to make it work. Before you've set it up, SpeedFan will only display RPM and temperature, the percentage controls will simply not work.


When I set the UEFI for manual and PWM, no matter what curve I set in speed fan, the fans and pump run at 100%. My understanding is that Speedfans PWM control doesn't work with Gigabytes boards.

My plan is to run the Pump on PWM, easy tune 6 is good enough for thatas i plan to have it top out around 50%, with the fans at 100% and the pump at 50% there's not even a 1c temp difference. Swiftech helix fans do fine on voltage control from what I've read, so I should be able to dial those in with Speedfan and voltage control.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> When I set the UEFI for manual and PWM, no matter what curve I set in speed fan, the fans and pump run at 100%. My understanding is that Speedfans PWM control doesn't work with Gigabytes boards.
> 
> My plan is to run the Pump on PWM, easy tune 6 is good enough for thatas i plan to have it top out around 50%, with the fans at 100% and the pump at 50% there's not even a 1c temp difference. Swiftech helix fans do fine on voltage control from what I've read, so I should be able to dial those in with Speedfan and voltage control.


Speedfan's PWM control works just fine with Gigabyte boards, you are doing something wrong if you can not control cpu_fan and sys_fan headers. You are using latest version and have set mode of PWM 2 and 3 to Software controlled in in Advanced settings of Speedfan ?


----------



## Scott1541

Just to confirm sys_fan 2 and 3 cannot be controlled via voltage with anything at all right? No speedfan, no magic unicorn blood?


----------



## mm67

Not that I know of, of course you could use a device like this to convert PWM control to voltage control : http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/pci.html


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Not that I know of, of course you could use a device like this to convert PWM control to voltage control : http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/pci.html


If I was going to use one of them then I might as well just buy a proper fan controller instead. Right now I'm using a resistor with the fans and that's doing an alright job, but being able to actually control the voltage myself would be better.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> If I was going to use one of them then I might as well just buy a proper fan controller instead. Right now I'm using a resistor with the fans and that's doing an alright job, but being able to actually control the voltage myself would be better.


If you don't require automatic speed control then I see no reason to not use a proper fan controller


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> If you don't require automatic speed control then I see no reason to not use a proper fan controller


If they were a bit cheaper I'd get one, I don't see the point paying £30 for something that I don't really need at the minute. I'll probably get one at some point though, I love how the Lamptron FC6 looks


----------



## invader1964

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> If they were a bit cheaper I'd get one, I don't see the point paying £30 for something that I don't really need at the minute. I'll probably get one at some point though, I love how the Lamptron FC6 looks


Just thought I might add this using this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aerocool-Touch-1000-Screen-Controller/dp/B002DQ8222 to control all case fans and CPU on a UD3H works really well when you need extra airflow just turn them up


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I had this problem before and still not fixed. I change the settings in Bios and safe changes but they don't change? Whats going on?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I had this problem before and still not fixed. I change the settings in Bios and safe changes but they don't change? Whats going on?


Are you using F10 then yes to save and exit or are you using your mouse and or arrow keys either way you do it try the other start simple like setting date and time or reflash your current bios version maybe you have a corrupt flash use the pendrive/usb stick method. GL


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Speedfan's PWM control works just fine with Gigabyte boards, you are doing something wrong if you can not control cpu_fan and sys_fan headers. You are using latest version and have set mode of PWM 2 and 3 to Software controlled in in Advanced settings of Speedfan ?


I set the CPU Fan in the UEFI to Manual and PWM. I tested manual control in speed fan until I found the pump, then went about setting a fan curve. The second I hit "Automatic Fan Speed" it jumps to 100%. I double and triple checked that it was using the CPU temp sensor, and even tried setting it to go off of the hottest core.


----------



## Skullwipe

Speedfan problem resolved, it was caused by the default alarm temperatures, which for some odd reason are at 40c. None of the guides I read ever mentioned adjusting the "Warning" field on a temperature sensor. I feel kind of stupid for not figuring it out more quickly, but at least I've gotten working as desired. Put the pump on Sys_Fan 2 and the fans on the CPU header, set a flat curve for the pump and a nice ramping curve for the fans.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Are you using F10 then yes to save and exit or are you using your mouse and or arrow keys either way you do it try the other start simple like setting date and time or reflash your current bios version maybe you have a corrupt flash use the pendrive/usb stick method. GL


Ok i will try. I use the F10 method.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I had this problem before and still not fixed. I change the settings in Bios and safe changes but *they don't change*? Whats going on?


all betas suck ..that's what's doing on ..stick to the bioses from GB website


----------



## SDBolts619

Not sure which BIOS you're using, but I know I had the same problem of OC settings not sticking with F15q. I switched to F15r and problem solved.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Not sure which BIOS you're using, but I know I had the same problem of OC settings not sticking with F15q. I switched to F15r and problem solved.


Had it with q and after using r same thing.


----------



## Belial

hey so when the termination voltages are on 'auto', does that mean if you set like 1.75v RAM, they go up to .875v, or they still stay stuck at .75?


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> hey so when the termination voltages are on 'auto', does that mean if you set like 1.75v RAM, they go up to .875v, or they still stay stuck at .75?


IIRC yes. I know this is how it worked on my x58 board.


----------



## DeXel

This looks very nice.

And new EasyTune.


----------



## Scott1541

Is the new easytune going to be only for new boards like the Z87s, or existing ones too? It looks nice though, having more than 2 points on the fan profile bit will definitely be helpful


----------



## cam51037

Quick question, a friend of mine has a Z77-DS3H board. We're trying to OC it on firmware F10, but can't find any CPU voltage controls. Does anybody know where the voltage controls are located?


----------



## DeXel

That's the lowest end GB board. It doesn't have voltage adjustments. You should have gotten Z77-D3H, or Z77-HD4. Maybe HD3 too, not sure.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> That's the lowest end GB board. It doesn't have voltage adjustments. You should have gotten Z77-D3H, or Z77-HD4. Maybe HD3 too, not sure.


Hmm, that kind of sucks then. It still can OC I take it, but without voltage control.


----------



## Jtchal

Just wondering if anyone has tried to remove the blue from the heatsinks of the Z77X-UD3H?
I assume it is anodized?


----------



## chrisf4lc0n

Can I join the club with my Z77X-D3H rev 1.0?




I also have got a question... Is there any way I could actively cool the VRMs on the board, as they get rather hot when overclocking. Especially those ones under the heatsink seem to get extremly hot! I was looking for a waterblock, but could not find any







So I thought about some kind of small fan installed directly on the heatsink, but had no idea how could I possibly attach it


----------



## Spiralmind

I have the UD5H and it refuses to detect my video card. I have tried it in the 16x pcie slot and the 8x pcie slot. The fan spins, but no video. Running a 560 ti. Bios version F14. 3770K cpu 16 gb RAM Windows 7 64 bit.


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spiralmind*
> 
> I have the UD5H and it refuses to detect my video card. I have tried it in the 16x pcie slot and the 8x pcie slot. The fan spins, but no video. Running a 560 ti. Bios version F14. 3770K cpu 16 gb RAM Windows 7 64 bit.


I'd give the PCI-E slots a clean with a brush to remove any dust that could have built up. I had this problem with my last motherboard, after a bit of dust built up over a few months I would get to video output on boot. Then after a quick clean everything would be fine again.


----------



## Spiralmind

Cleaned both slots and the card still no video. My UD5H is brand new. Card is old and dusty







I really hope its not the MB. Gonna test the card in my old machine just to be sure the card hasn't died. Was working yesterday.


----------



## Scott1541

Does it work with integrated graphics?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spiralmind*
> 
> Cleaned both slots and the card still no video. My UD5H is brand new. Card is old and dusty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hope its not the MB. Gonna test the card in my old machine just to be sure the card hasn't died. Was working yesterday.


Have you checked the bios to make sure Lucid Virtu or the onboard GPU isn't active (disabled) and that PCIE is the initial display or you could just clear the CMOS I believe discrete GPU is default. Be sure to set optimized defaults. If that doesn't work then try a different GPU on that board.


----------



## Spiralmind

Yes the integrated graphics work fine. Tested the card in my old machine, no video.


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spiralmind*
> 
> Yes the integrated graphics work fine. Tested the card in my old machine, no video.


I guess you have your answer then


----------



## jastro

I have the UD3H and been having issues with low microphone volumes and i cant find a way to fix it.


----------



## DeXel

Non-usb desktop mic? There should be a mic volume slider in VIA panel... if there is such thing for VIA audio. There is a slider for Realtek.


----------



## jastro

yup 3,5 mm jack. and i tried using the sliders. i even maxed the mic boost and its still really quiet


----------



## DeXel

Well, I'm not sure what else can be done on motherboard's side, so few questions about the mic. Any other PC to test it with? Is it something more expensive like a pro grade microphone that requires an amplifier?


----------



## jastro

i have my laptop, and it works fine with it. it uses realtek drivers though. the microphone is from my headset and other computers i use it on dont give me the same issue


----------



## Spiralmind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> I guess you have your answer then


I dug out an old 8600 GTS and it was detected just fine, so it's not the PCI-E slot (thank goodness). Gonna have to make do with the integrated graphics for a month, get a new card in June.


----------



## Belial

Z77X-UD5H 1.1
F14

Phillips FW-C250 2 speakers + 3 cd changer for sound (rca to stereo minijack adaptor to line out black)

I have a JBL model: sub 6 subwoofer, that I'm trying to add to my system. I'm not sure how to go about doing it. The best i've done so far is plug the sub into my motherboard's center/sub output, and then go to realtek and set it up to 5.1 surround and disable everything else, but i can't get it to play in youtube or basically anything but a sound test.


----------



## DeXel

Did you try to play around with Windows playback devices? Set it to default, and etc.


----------



## Belial

Hmm it appears to show up on the windows 'test' for the speakers. The bass, that is. the test plays 6 sounds (left, right, center is just both speakers, bass, then left/right which is probably left/right rear speakers).


----------



## steve210

ok just tried these drivers Intel® Rapid Storage Technology Driver 12.6.0.1033 WHQL made my system crash i had to do restore from earlier from today


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisf4lc0n*
> 
> Can I join the club with my Z77X-D3H rev 1.0?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have got a question... Is there any way I could actively cool the VRMs on the board, as they get rather hot when overclocking. Especially those ones under the heatsink seem to get extremly hot! I was looking for a waterblock, but could not find any
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I thought about some kind of small fan installed directly on the heatsink, but had no idea how could I possibly attach it


Nice build, that fan facing the back of your case, try to make it so that it blows into the case. Without any airflow over the VRm it will get warm, but realize that the VRm can take the heat. Just some airflow wouldn't hurt.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hmm it appears to show up on the windows 'test' for the speakers. The bass, that is. the test plays 6 sounds (left, right, center is just both speakers, bass, then left/right which is probably left/right rear speakers).


Perhaps what you are playing back doesn't have 6.1 support. Try a DVD?


----------



## Belial

edit: i figured it out - plugged speakers into the sub, then plugged sub into speaker wire inputs on the cd changer. Then, an rca to stereo to motherboard. Just a single line into the mobo.

The subwoofer instead, takes bass signals and just plays them. Sounds great.


----------



## chrisf4lc0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> Nice build, that fan facing the back of your case, try to make it so that it blows into the case. Without any airflow over the VRm it will get warm, but realize that the VRm can take the heat. Just some airflow wouldn't hurt.


I have just found this, the size is right, so I will give it a go


----------



## MarcP2021

Question on overclocking. Just got a Z77X-D3H Rev. 1.1 motherboard and I'm having trouble getting my 3570K past 4.2Ghz. My temps are in the 60C-65C range in prime95(using a Hyper 212+ cooler) and my voltage is sitting at 1.88v. The problem I'm running into is that the bios freezes on me every time I try for 4.4 or 4.5. I can up the voltage and get all the way to prime95 but then I'll crash and the bios will freeze up again. I end up having to reset the cmos just to get it to unfreeze.

What's causing me to get stonewalled here?


----------



## xutnubu

I have a problem where my network connection just goes away, the little icon shows that it's trying to connect but it doesn't.

This GA-Z77X-UD3H uses the Qualcomm Atheros AR8161/8165 adapter. When I go to the website to download new drivers I can't find this adapter.

Currently using drivers v 2.1.0.7 that I downlaoded from GB's website.

The only way to fix these disconnections is to reset the PC.

Help, anyone?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarcP2021*
> 
> Question on overclocking. Just got a Z77X-D3H Rev. 1.1 motherboard and I'm having trouble getting my 3570K past 4.2Ghz. My temps are in the 60C-65C range in prime95(using a Hyper 212+ cooler) and my voltage is sitting at 1.88v. The problem I'm running into is that the bios freezes on me every time I try for 4.4 or 4.5. I can up the voltage and get all the way to prime95 but then I'll crash and the bios will freeze up again. I end up having to reset the cmos just to get it to unfreeze.
> 
> What's causing me to get stonewalled here?


Vcore at 1.88?!


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarcP2021*
> 
> Question on overclocking. Just got a Z77X-D3H Rev. 1.1 motherboard and I'm having trouble getting my 3570K past 4.2Ghz. My temps are in the 60C-65C range in prime95(using a Hyper 212+ cooler) and my voltage is sitting at 1.88v. The problem I'm running into is that the bios freezes on me every time I try for 4.4 or 4.5. I can up the voltage and get all the way to prime95 but then I'll crash and the bios will freeze up again. I end up having to reset the cmos just to get it to unfreeze.
> 
> What's causing me to get stonewalled here?


I do not see how you can have your vcore set to 1.88 with your setup. Sounds like you are not properly adjusting your voltages in bios.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xutnubu*
> 
> I have a problem where my network connection just goes away, the little icon shows that it's trying to connect but it doesn't.
> 
> This GA-Z77X-UD3H uses the Qualcomm Atheros AR8161/8165 adapter. When I go to the website to download new drivers I can't find this adapter.
> 
> Currently using drivers v 2.1.0.7 that I downlaoded from GB's website.
> 
> The only way to fix these disconnections is to reset the PC.
> 
> Help, anyone?


Go here: http://www.qca.qualcomm.com/corporate/content.php?nav1=146

Use the second drop down box ("AR813X AR815X Family Drivers") and choose the last entry (v2.1.0.15 Windows drivers).


----------



## Jtchal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarcP2021*
> 
> Question on overclocking. Just got a Z77X-D3H Rev. 1.1 motherboard and I'm having trouble getting my 3570K past 4.2Ghz. My temps are in the 60C-65C range in prime95(using a Hyper 212+ cooler) and my voltage is sitting at 1.88v. The problem I'm running into is that the bios freezes on me every time I try for 4.4 or 4.5. I can up the voltage and get all the way to prime95 but then I'll crash and the bios will freeze up again. I end up having to reset the cmos just to get it to unfreeze.
> 
> What's causing me to get stonewalled here?


I'm keen to hear what others will say too.
I had the exact same issue with the BIOS freezing on me @ 4.5Ghz (1.25 Vcore). It was stable in windows, ran IBT fine etc
Why does it only freeze in the BIOS?


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xutnubu*
> 
> I have a problem where my network connection just goes away, the little icon shows that it's trying to connect but it doesn't.
> 
> This GA-Z77X-UD3H uses the Qualcomm Atheros AR8161/8165 adapter. When I go to the website to download new drivers I can't find this adapter.
> 
> Currently using drivers v 2.1.0.7 that I downlaoded from GB's website.
> 
> The only way to fix these disconnections is to reset the PC.
> 
> Help, anyone?


get them here
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html

and yes my ud3h is a bugfest too, even lan issues, i had to get a usb wifi and router since i torrent a lot + browsing

ud3h has very crap lan and usb


----------



## xutnubu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xutnubu*
> 
> I have a problem where my network connection just goes away, the little icon shows that it's trying to connect but it doesn't.
> 
> This GA-Z77X-UD3H uses the Qualcomm Atheros AR8161/8165 adapter. When I go to the website to download new drivers I can't find this adapter.
> 
> Currently using drivers v 2.1.0.7 that I downlaoded from GB's website.
> 
> The only way to fix these disconnections is to reset the PC.
> 
> Help, anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> Go here: http://www.qca.qualcomm.com/corporate/content.php?nav1=146
> 
> Use the second drop down box ("AR813X AR815X Family Drivers") and choose the last entry (v2.1.0.15 Windows drivers).
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xutnubu*
> 
> 
> 
> get them here
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html
> 
> and yes my ud3h is a bugfest too, even lan issues, i had to get a usb wifi and router since i torrent a lot + browsing
> 
> ud3h has very crap lan and usb
Click to expand...

This is why I registered on OCN, instant tech support









Thank you, both!


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jtchal*
> 
> I'm keen to hear what others will say too.
> I had the exact same issue with the BIOS freezing on me @ 4.5Ghz (1.25 Vcore). It was stable in windows, ran IBT fine etc
> Why does it only freeze in the BIOS?


First off, what firmware are you using? 1.25v at 4.5 Ghz stable seems a bit low. Does the bios freeze up if you boost the voltage?


----------



## MarcP2021

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Vcore at 1.88?!


1.188*









Also I've gone as high up as 1.3v trying to get 4.5ghz and the same thing happened.

I'm on F15 Bios btw.


----------



## DeXel

I need ~1.34v for 4.5Ghz, so maybe it's not enough yet. Also set LLC higher.


----------



## ETN686

hooh yesss (November 2012 )


----------



## MarcP2021

Alright I've done a couple runs to see if I could get prime95 going but no luck. x0124 BSOD within seconds of starting the blend test every time so far. I've been upping volts by 0.010 each time and the longest prime stayed up was in the 1.240-1.260 range. Everything above so far has crashed faster than before.

So far I'm up to 1.296 on volts and I'm using Extreme LLC so there's little to no vdroop. I'll edit this post with a update on my 1.3+v results.

About 3 Bios freezes since I started my test runs. Once at 1.250v/4.5ghz and again at 1.180v/4.2ghz(what I've been running at for the past 4 days) which was a first. I thought there was a pattern to the freezing but apparently not.

Also I got a AMD catalyst crash that caused a reboot on the same voltage twice. I uninstalled the drivers and tested again and got the 124 code. Dunno if that's relevant or not.


----------



## DeXel

Update/reflash BIOS. Make BCLK fixed at 100, and 44 multi. Try to set 1.32v and go down from that. Maybe even 1.35v.


----------



## Jtchal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffwx7*
> 
> First off, what firmware are you using? 1.25v at 4.5 Ghz stable seems a bit low. Does the bios freeze up if you boost the voltage?


The BIOS I'm running is F18, updated it not too long ago.
I've been trying to find other Vcore for a 4.5Ghz OC but couldn't find much. As it booted/and ran windows/IBT fine at fairly low temps I assumed 1.25 V was okay.
I've had my LLC on medium for the whole time. Will try my luck again tonight starting at 1.3 V and try to work my way down really slowly.
Is there anywhere I can find other people's OC's (Frequency, Vcore, etc) all in one place like a spreadsheet or something?


----------



## asuindasun

So having a problem with my UD5 + 670 (and am unsure if they're related or not at this point).

Flashed my 670 BIOS (no issues while flashing, did in windows







) but after restart card hangs at mobo logo screen. Popped card out, put in my other 670 and no issues getting in, but my mobo now does not detect anything that is plugged into the speaker/mic ports... No idea if they're possibly related, was having "power surge on USB port" warnings for about 2 weeks prior to this, possibly mobo going bad which led to a bad flash?

Seriously stumped here on the speaker/mic not working, the card I'll probably just end up RMA'ing since I followed the gigabyte procedure and had that result...


----------



## MarcP2021

Did some more testing. 4.4Ghz/1.35V crashed at the starting windows screen.
High 1.2Vs resulted in almost instant x0124 crashes in prime.

Decided to start from my 4.2Ghz overclock voltage of 1.180 and work my way up.

4.4Ghz/1.224-1.236V with Turbo LLC seemed to be the sweet spot.

Passed the first round of tests and made it to the 9th of the second set before prime95 crashed. No bluescreen.

Temps were in the high 60s with the 2 middle cores hitting the low 70s.


----------



## Jtchal

Have tried some more OCing last night.
Was running my CPU at 4.5GHz and started off at 1.3Vcore which was fine.
Then turned it down to 1.28 V which seemed to do okay too.
And finally lowered it to 1.275 V with LLC set to 'high'.
Put it through an IBT test initially then thought I'd run a Prime95 blend test.
I started it at 11 last night and when I checked before work at 7 this morning my highest temps so far were: 66 - 70 - 71 - 68
The test is still running and will check the temps again when I get home.

Are these values (Vcore, temps etc) looking normal?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jtchal*
> 
> Have tried some more OCing last night.
> Was running my CPU at 4.5GHz and started off at 1.3Vcore which was fine.
> Then turned it down to 1.28 V which seemed to do okay too.
> And finally lowered it to 1.275 V with LLC set to 'high'.
> Put it through an IBT test initially then thought I'd run a Prime95 blend test.
> I started it at 11 last night and when I checked before work at 7 this morning my highest temps so far were: 66 - 70 - 71 - 68
> The test is still running and will check the temps again when I get home.
> 
> Are these values (Vcore, temps etc) looking normal?


Still adjusting the fan and pump curves on my h220, but my hottest core hits 71c running at 4.3 GHz on a 1.188 Vcore. 27c ambient...damn third floor living.


----------



## Skullwipe

Can anyone provide a link for specifications on the iTE8728F Super I/0 on the UD5H?


----------



## Jtchal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jtchal*
> 
> Have tried some more OCing last night.
> Was running my CPU at 4.5GHz and started off at 1.3Vcore which was fine.
> Then turned it down to 1.28 V which seemed to do okay too.
> And finally lowered it to 1.275 V with LLC set to 'high'.
> Put it through an IBT test initially then thought I'd run a Prime95 blend test.
> I started it at 11 last night and when I checked before work at 7 this morning my highest temps so far were: 66 - 70 - 71 - 68
> The test is still running and will check the temps again when I get home.
> 
> Are these values (Vcore, temps etc) looking normal?


Argh the BIOS just froze on me again! I thought that the Blend test would've been good enough to test the stability of the overclock...


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jtchal*
> 
> Argh the BIOS just froze on me again! I thought that the Blend test would've been good enough to test the stability of the overclock...


How long did you run it for? I find a hour is normally enough to test for basic stability, which is fine for normal web browsing and basic tasks, although you can still get crashes occasionally. To ensure a greater degree of stability I just play a few demanding games for several hours and adjust my overclock accordingly if it crashes, maybe a bit of folding here and there to really stress it







I've never done the traditional stability testing where you leave prime95 running for 12+ hours.


----------



## Jtchal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> How long did you run it for? I find a hour is normally enough to test for basic stability, which is fine for normal web browsing and basic tasks, although you can still get crashes occasionally. To ensure a greater degree of stability I just play a few demanding games for several hours and adjust my overclock accordingly if it crashes, maybe a bit of folding here and there to really stress it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've never done the traditional stability testing where you leave prime95 running for 12+ hours.


I had the blend test going overnight as well as throughout the next working day, so it went on for around 20ish hours haha.
I also did a slightly shorter IBT run yesterday just to check temps and all. They were a little higher than what I got with the Blend test, but nothing too bad.
By the way is there some sort of 'Official' Gigabyte Z77 overclocking guide like there is one for the Asrock Z77 motherboard? I've been looking but can't find any...


----------



## DeXel

www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## Scott1541

I still haven't even read that guide yet, I should really get around to doing it







I don't think I'll be going any higher than 4.4GHz though, I don't want the voltage over 1.30V


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> I still haven't even read that guide yet, I should really get around to doing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think I'll be going any higher than 4.4GHz though, I don't want the voltage over 1.30V


My 3570k is at 4.4GHz at 1.200 Vcore, this was stable for 4 hours on a custom P95 run, I could most likely lower the Vcore, but it's rock solid at this voltage and my temps are great. 90% of available memory, Max FFT 4096, Min FFT 128, did not run the FFT's in place. So it's kind of like an extreme blend test.


----------



## VeerK

Hi all,

Just about to build my first rig and have been worried about the boot time for the UD3H. I have seen the AsRock Extreme4 boot up in 4.8ish seconds, versus the 10.8ish seconds for the UD3H. I want to get the UD3H for its build quality, but it will kill me every time I boot up to lose those 6 seconds. I have read that there was a new bios update that significantly upped boot time, and whereas AsRock and Asus have special modes that allow for ultrafast ~5 second boot times, I haven't seen one yet for the UD3H. Please tell me there is one, I need to allay my final qualms and pick up this beauty now and return my Extreme4!

EDIT: Will be pairing this with a Samsung 840 Pro 256 GB SSD for OS and some other programs only.

(Note, first time builder here, did a solid google search and couldn't find any answers, and the 550+ pages tell me I'm in the right place







)


----------



## Sin0822

those boot modes bypass many stages of POST and don't check all devices. I think there is a fast boot option since windows 8 was introduced, but I am not sure how much that improved the POST


----------



## deepor

I believe that Fast Boot stuff will not fix this. It's for skipping the initialization of devices, leaving it to Windows 8. It seems to me the Gigabyte board loses time somewhere before this, when initializing the motherboard itself. My ASRock board was a lot faster even with its Fast Boot off. I could of course remember this wrong.


----------



## frag85

Is it possible to use both discrete AND onboard graphics on a UD3H?

I want to hook up my TV and use HDMI+onboard sound to watch videos on.

Currently I use a USB headset so I do not use onboard audio and no SPDIF wire handy to go from the motherboard SPDIF (bottom left mobo hookup) to GPU to get the sound that way.


----------



## DeXel

Yep, just enable integrated GPU in the UEFI.


----------



## Belial

My board's manual-slope fan control doesn't work. I just realized it's never changed in months from ~1250RPM. Ever. No matter what slope i set or the temps.

that must mean my temps could be a lot lower....

i am using a ysplitter for 2x PWM fans, the nh-d14 SE2011 fans. Anyone else have this issue? They are 4 pin PWM fans plugged into a pwm 4-pin y-splitter.

edit: fixed by setting to 'voltage' instead. really odd. they turn off at ~below 40*C, and run super quiet most of the time. pretty cool.


----------



## deepor

Isn't that max speed anyways for typical 140mm fans? Perhaps it's already running at 100% all the time.


----------



## Belial

yea apparently it was. at least now it's not 100% all the time though, so that's cool.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yep, just enable integrated GPU in the UEFI.


Wow, can't believe it was that easy (sort of).

Main displays hooked up to my nvidia cards freak out when then HDMI display isn't on and/or connected and was active last time the computer was on, but other than that everything works fine.

I've never seen CPU core temps this level, 20c idle, 52c load. GPU seems to affect temp on Core 1+4, which are usually 3-5C cooler, I always thought the GPU would just change core 1 (I think its on that side of the die).


----------



## VeerK

Yeah, I'm familiar with how they manage the "Ultra-fast boot" times in terms of skipping portions. Has anyone had any success dropping the POST time down? I guess I could just avoid cold boots, but that really tempers my enthusiasm for sub 10 second start up times :/

I read your review on the AsRock Extreme4 Sin, is there any point where getting the Extreme4 surpasses the UD3H, such as price or overclock limits? I plan on OCing my 3770k to 4.2 with my CM212 EVO and 4.7 when I move up to a better cooler.


----------



## mandrix

My boot time to Windows 7 logon is 8 seconds, and that's with Acronis 2012 recovery preloading.
Bootracer shows time to desktop as 18 seconds, but I have a lot of programs loading.


----------



## Sin0822

i just put up this article on VRMs if anyone is interested:
http://sinhardware.com/index.php/vrm-articles/316-the-ultimate-motherboard-voltage-regulator-guide?showall=&limitstart=

on price its cheaper and gives you features, so sure if you just want to use it as a normal board then sure why not its a decent value.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i just put up this article on VRMs if anyone is interested:
> http://sinhardware.com/index.php/vrm-articles/316-the-ultimate-motherboard-voltage-regulator-guide?showall=&limitstart=
> 
> on price its cheaper and gives you features, so sure if you just want to use it as a normal board then sure why not its a decent value.


Nice writeup! Really appreciate that Sin, though it does reinforce that I didn't need to spring for the UD5H over the UD3H.


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822*
> 
> i just put up this article on VRMs if anyone is interested:
> http://sinhardware.com/index.php/vrm-articles/316-the-ultimate-motherboard-voltage-regulator-guide?showall=&limitstart=
> 
> on price its cheaper and gives you features, so sure if you just want to use it as a normal board then sure why not its a decent value.


I have read quite a few of your posts on the subject, really informative. I ask because I can get the UD3H for about $10 more than what I paid for the Extreme4, and I wasn't sure if my OC plans would be okay for the board. I don't plan on changing up my rig for at least 5 years, and I need something that will last and perform well for that time. The build of the UD3H is great but if the VRM issue isn't going to affect me, I'll stick with the faster boot times.


----------



## uncola

is there any newer bios for the ud3h than f18? I see f19e beta has been on the us gigabyte site for like 7 months with nothing newer or non beta. I didn't find any newer bios when I went to the gigabyte taiwan site either


----------



## DeXel

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

We probably won't see new BIOS releases until Z87 release.


----------



## arrow0309

I'm using for about a week and in order to get stable with my new Tridentx at 2400 cl 9-11-11-31-1T @ 1.62v these voltages for the vtt and imc:

*Vtt - 1.15v
Imc - 1.1v*

All this on the oc at 4.7GHz and with ~ 1.28v of vcore

Supposing I wanna try to lower some of these two voltages (vtt and imc) until is possible, wich one should I start with?
Thanks for the proper answers


----------



## sixor

yep z77x support has been dead for months

they are stuck on beta bios since forever

they killed support even a lot ago before releasing z87


----------



## Sin0822

no they just slow down just like every platform, there are releases just all BETAs and when intel releases huge firmware things they will release final versions. But yes for the most part most of their BIOS engineers have Z87 as a top priority, but if there is a specific issue and i report it, it will still get fixed.

You have to look at it this way, how can they give it the same rate of BISO updates and do the next platform, when all the retailers will stop carrying Z77 stuff in a few months? You should blame Intel for only giving Z77 a year, otherwise like X58 you can get multi year support.

Also there is possibly ANOTHER reason which is good for you, but which i cannot divulge.


----------



## chronicfx

Has anyone taken the time to figure out the PWM fan control in bios for the CPU header? All of my other fans are on a controller. I would like a Temperature in Celsius vs. Fan Speed % explaination if possible for the 2.5/C ramp configuration.

BTW, hello Sin and Dexel.. You convinced me and I am now no longer an Asrock owner (Well only in my basement parts box now, I may still get a cheap case with PSU and I3-3225 and get my wife off of my rig). Hopefully you can welcome me to this side of things. The vcores ARE different between the boards regarding CPU-z:thumb:.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> I'm using for about a week and in order to get stable with my new Tridentx at 2400 cl 9-11-11-31-1T @ 1.62v these voltages for the vtt and imc:
> 
> *Vtt - 1.15v
> Imc - 1.1v*
> 
> All this on the oc at 4.7GHz and with ~ 1.28v of vcore
> 
> Supposing I wanna try to lower some of these two voltages (vtt and imc) until is possible, wich one should I start with?
> Thanks for the proper answers


Ok so I went down to 0.025v on both the vtt and imc voltages and it doesn't hold well the stress test with linx (the windows and some colors on the desktop were acting strange, crashing and I stopped the linx test)
So I set back the 1.15v for the vtt and kept only the lowered imc (1.075v) and tested again, everything ok
Shall I lower the imc even more?


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Ok so I went down to 0.025v on both the vtt and imc voltages and it doesn't hold well the stress test with linx (the windows and some colors on the desktop were acting strange, crashing and I stopped the linx test)
> So I set back the 1.15v for the vtt and kept only the lowered imc (1.075v) and tested again, everything ok
> Shall I lower the imc even more?


I have the ripjaws and needed 1.68v to get em stable.

Edit: didnt see u were trying cas9


----------



## Koniakki

Guys I know this is probably NOT the best place to ask this but on the contrary it might also be the best place to ask this..

So here it goes. I got an offer for an MSI Z77A-GD65 for my UD3H. Both I know from reviews atleast they perform about the same.

Trade or no trade and if possible some reason but PLEASE don't let things heat up or turn this into a debate or something.

I just need some friendly(if possible unbiased) advice. Thank you.


----------



## DeXel

GD65 offers few features here and there. Like ALC898 codec, extra SATA ports. Probably better fan control. Its VRM will run cooler, but it uses analog PWM instead, and doesn't support offset. It's up to you. Whatever functions you prefer really.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Ok so I went down to 0.025v on both the vtt and imc voltages and it doesn't hold well the stress test with linx (the windows and some colors on the desktop were acting strange, crashing and I stopped the linx test)
> So I set back the 1.15v for the vtt and kept only the lowered imc (1.075v) and tested again, everything ok
> Shall I lower the imc even more?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the ripjaws and needed 1.68v to get em stable.
> 
> Edit: didnt see u were trying cas9
Click to expand...

Man, I wouldn't go 24/7 with more than 1.65v
How about the vtt and imc voltages?


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> GD65 offers few features here and there. Like ALC898 codec, extra SATA ports. Probably better fan control. Its VRM will run cooler, but it uses analog PWM instead, and doesn't support offset. It's up to you. Whatever functions you prefer really.


Basically to be honest the audio chip its good to have but since most of us cant differentiate the 128Kbps from an 320Kbps I wouldn't sweat on it.

Basically those 2 extra ports would come handy since I already have 9,5TB disks(1x2/3/4TB and a small 500GB and not counting the SSD).

I will replace the 500GB obviously with another 4TB in the near future but I'm left with only one port extra for the next 3-4 years probably which of course I will plug another 4-6TB in the future.

Hmm.. I guess its something I have to think hard my self.. Thanks DeXel for the reply.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> since most of us cant differentiate the 128Kbps from an 320Kbps I wouldn't sweat on it.


I would argue that only ignorant wouldn't hear the difference with proper audio equipment... Saying that I don't think there is a huge difference between integrated codecs.


----------



## Sin0822

ask yourself why the guy wants to trade his board which costs $30 more for yours?


----------



## chronicfx

Figured it out by doing it. When set to PWM - manual - 75 degrees C is 100% fan speed and 25 degrees C is whatever your fans lowest setting is. My fan goes from [email protected] [email protected] using a slope of 2.5/C in bios. Just incase it helps anyone. I know it would have helped me a few hours ago.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Ok so I went down to 0.025v on both the vtt and imc voltages and it doesn't hold well the stress test with linx (the windows and some colors on the desktop were acting strange, crashing and I stopped the linx test)
> So I set back the 1.15v for the vtt and kept only the lowered imc (1.075v) and tested again, everything ok
> Shall I lower the imc even more?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the ripjaws and needed 1.68v to get em stable.
> 
> Edit: didnt see u were trying cas9
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Man, I wouldn't go 24/7 with more than 1.65v
> How about the vtt and imc voltages?
Click to expand...

Update
Lowered this morning my imc voltage to 1.05 and I got linx stable:



However, I was playing at CoD Black Ops 2 right before and after a while it gave me a 124 bsod








What shall I have to increase now, the vcore, vtt or imc?
***, I was playing at Crysis 3 all day with my videocard in oc as well, everything fine, now I'm playing at CODBO2 with the vga at default and I got a bsod









Edit:
Set the pwm phase control to eXtr Perf and I will try some more, if I'll still get the bsod 124 will increase the vcore


----------



## arrow0309

*Help!*
Tried this evening with Prime95 latest 64bit (Version 27.9) end it's keep giving me the *bsod 124*








Changed almost every voltage, nothing, I don't know what to do or where to start with

This is my latest (linx) stable config:

http://cdn.overclock.net/9/96/96e0c1e8_Stable1Timc1.05.jpeg

Pwm phase control - eXm Perf (or High Perf)
Vcore voltage response - Fast
LLC - High
Dvid - +0.085 (~1.284-1.272 max stress)
Vtt - 1.15v
Cpu Pll - 1.55v
Imc - 1.05v
Dram volt - 1.65v

Man, this latest prime is really a pain in the ass
I'll appreciate any of your help, seriously


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> *Help!*
> Tried this evening with Prime95 latest 64bit (Version 27.9) end it's keep giving me the *bsod 124*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed almost every voltage, nothing, I don't know what to do or where to start with
> 
> This is my latest (linx) stable config:
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/9/96/96e0c1e8_Stable1Timc1.05.jpeg
> 
> Pwm phase control - eXm Perf (or High Perf)
> Vcore voltage response - Fast
> LLC - High
> Dvid - +0.085 (~1.284-1.272 max stress)
> Vtt - 1.15v
> Cpu Pll - 1.55v
> Imc - 1.05v
> Dram volt - 1.65v
> 
> Man, this latest prime is really a pain in the ass
> I'll appreciate any of your help, seriously


Raise the cpu pll and make sure cpu pll overvoltage is set to enabled, see if that helps. You will get more heat but likely more stable.


----------



## chronicfx

What is ao bad about 1.68v i think sins guide says up to 1.75v for ram unless I am mistaken. Also i just game at night and use internet explorer by day. My computer isn't "punished" by any means when compared with someone who folds or renders all day.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> What is ao bad about 1.68v i think sins guide says up to 1.75v for ram unless I am mistaken. Also i just game at night and use internet explorer by day. My computer isn't "punished" by any means when compared with someone who folds or renders all day.


Some of the high speed sticks are rated to run at 1.65v, the little bit of reading I did implies voltages over 1.6 may cause degradation on DIMMs not designed for the increased voltage. As for the on-die memory controller, I've not got a clue as to when degradation may occur, but the warranty stops at 1.575v.


----------



## Belial

Single 7950 here, ud5h.

So... if the board supplies 75w, and the 2x6=75x2=150w.. that's just 225w of power to the board, no? And even on stock settings, a 7950 will reach over 250w (that's why everyone has those thermal problems and need to raise it to +50%).

So shouldn't I use that sata peripheral power port for a 7950?


----------



## arrow0309

I'm running my 7950 in oc at 1150/1500 @1.20v without the sata powered
Everything fine so far with Crysis 3, gpu load at 99%


----------



## Skullwipe

Unless you have stability issue, I wouldn't bother with Atx4p.


----------



## dramabeats

anyone having problems with the uefi freezing on a ud3h?
have to restart multiple times to get it to stop freezing


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> anyone having problems with the uefi freezing on a ud3h?
> have to restart multiple times to get it to stop freezing


UD3H, UP5 TH, UP4 TH, UP7, UD4H, UD5H
yes... I've had these all do the exact same things. 95% of the time for me it was a failed overclock.
load optimized defaults and then go back and load saved profile and tweak from there.


----------



## chrisf4lc0n

Sorted VRM cooling












And it is blue...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> I'm running my 7950 in oc at 1150/1500 @1.20v without the sata powered
> Everything fine so far with Crysis 3, gpu load at 99%


I've run my 2x7950's with and without the extra SATA connector plugged into my UD5H, and I can't tell any difference in overclocking one way or another.
No problem getting >16000 in 3DMark11. 1250 core/1530 memory.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I've run my 2x7950's with and without the extra SATA connector plugged into my UD5H, and I can't tell any difference in overclocking one way or another.
> No problem getting >16000 in 3DMark11. 1250 core/1530 memory.


Very few people seem to need it in a dual card crossfire or SLI configuration, I'd imagine with 3 cards or in extreme overclocks it would be necessary.


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Very few people seem to need it in a dual card crossfire or SLI configuration, I'd imagine with 3 cards or in extreme overclocks it would be necessary.


Is the extra sata power on the mobo? Or is it specifically with the 7950?

Edit
I see it under the 24 pin now... Same question... Is there any harm in plugging it in for a two card config? Also will it help any?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Is the extra sata power on the mobo? Or is it specifically with the 7950?


Built into the motherboard. It's right next to the SATA ports.


----------



## frag85

I have it connected because I had a power cable running right next to it. Trying it disconnected with SLI GTX275's (I doubt these really put much strain on the PCIe slots) and up to 4.9ghz with 16GB of 1866 CL10 ram and it didn't seem to make any short term difference in stability or anything. Nothing really too extreme here, but it must be there for a reason.


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Built into the motherboard. It's right next to the SATA ports.


Would it be of any aid to a pair of 7970 sapphire vapor-x's that are unstable over 1200? I didn't know it existed. Was used to the molex above the pcie slots so i did not think the board had one.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Would it be of any aid to a pair of 7970 sapphire vapor-x's that are unstable over 1200? I didn't know it existed. Was used to the molex above the pcie slots so i did not think the board had one.


I couldn't hurt, it's untended purpose it to supply extra power to PCIe cards to aid in stability.


----------



## ZeVo

Got me a UD5H at MicroCenter for $150 open box. No issues at all. Turns out a 3570k problem I had (where it would show temps up to 105C) was due to my other mobo. Do not have any pictures as of now, but I'll get some soon!

As far as drivers go, which ones should I get that I absolutely need? Should I install them in a particular order?


----------



## PyroTechNiK

Pulled the trigger on a UD5H for $212 total on amazon.ca.

A question. What has been the most stable bios for you guys?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PyroTechNiK*
> 
> Pulled the trigger on a UD5H for $212 total on amazon.ca.
> 
> A question. What has been the most stable bios for you guys?


Currently running F13, only issue I have is that my mouse is inverted in the bios.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Currently running F13, only issue I have is that my mouse is inverted in the bios.


Same issue for me in F14 too.

And I spoke too soon about having no problems. I went to get something to eat for an hour and saw my computer had blue screen'd for some reason. Didn't read all of it but I got that it was 'ID 1033.' Maybe because I haven't installed Windows Update yet?


----------



## Koniakki

Hey guys this is my first OC try on my UD3H. What do you think about the temps, Vcore etc?

It's a 4.6Ghz OC with a H100i. Is that 1.2V actually true or its a false/wrong readout?

It's been 1hr since I started prime95 at small FFT. No errors. I will leave it overnight later.

Btw HWMonitor temps difference are quite big and I wish they were the real/correct ones.
But I doubt it.

Btw UD3H Bios are the F19 and my 3770k batch is L246C255 which I couldn't find any info on that batch.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koniakki*
> 
> Hey guys this is my first OC try on my UD3H. What do you think about the temps, Vcore etc? Its a 4.6Ghz OC with a H100i. Is that 1.2V actually true or its a false/wrong readout?


I'd love to see even 4.5 at 1.2V, as it stands I'm at 1.21 for 4.4 GHz.


----------



## Koniakki

Yeah, but I have my doubts that my Vcore is really at 1.20V.

Maybe someone with more experience can recommend atleast a few other preferred ways to measure/looks/find the Vcore.


----------



## DeXel

CoreTemp reads VID not Vcore (it even says there).


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> CoreTemp reads VID not Vcore (it even says there).


I think you missed the HWMonitor screen in the image, it shows a 1.2 Vcore.


----------



## DeXel

And here I though that I went over all HWMonitor readings... Anyway CPU-Z readings are the same for me. If you want anything closer to real vcore, use DMM. Nice chip you got there.


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> And here I though that I went over all HWMonitor readings... Anyway CPU-Z readings are the same for me. If you want anything closer to real vcore, use DMM. Nice chip you got there.


Thanks DeXel. But I'm not still not convinced about the chip. Through experience I know that I'm rarely lucky with hardware..

Tried to boot 4.8Ghz with same settings. It was a no go. I don't wanna mess with more Voltages for now anw.

I'm at 4.7Ghz guys now with the same bios setting as my previous post. Vcore is at 1.236V as reported. Going to leave it overnight now. Might also try to lower the Vcore another 0.010.

Also should I test the second prime95 option(In place large FFT) instead of "small FFT" for more stability? Or small FFT is enough?

Btw my 3770k batch is *L246C255 SR0PL MALAY rev. E1* chip. And as I said before I couldn't find any info on that batch.


----------



## ZeVo

Anyone on F15q here? I still get the frequent cold boot when I restart my computer on F14 and still on F15q.


----------



## frag85

If HWMonitor displays anything like what HWiNFO does, that is probably VID as mentioned or something else. Same thing is labeled as Vc in HWiNFO. I knew because I could keep cranking up my voltage (1.3 for 4.6, 1.4 for 4.9) and it would stay between .85 and 1.206 in HWiNFO. I'm currently at 4.2 with 1.15v and Vc shows 1.206. Vcore is another value. Edit: On my UD3H I get my actual vcore (multimeter confirmed) using the IRF IR3567 VR VOUT value. I don't know how accurate it is reading it from the VR, but its pretty close to my multimeter.

You would try changing your vcore and seeing if it changes.


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> If HWMonitor displays anything like what HWiNFO does, that is probably VID as mentioned or something else. Same thing is labeled as Vc in HWiNFO. I knew because I could keep cranking up my voltage (1.3 for 4.6, 1.4 for 4.9) and it would stay between .85 and 1.206 in HWiNFO. I'm currently at 4.2 with 1.15v and Vc shows 1.206. Vcore is another value. Edit: On my UD3H I get my actual vcore (multimeter confirmed) using the IRF IR3567 VR VOUT value. I don't know how accurate it is reading it from the VR, but its pretty close to my multimeter.
> 
> You would try changing your vcore and seeing if it changes.


Nuh, its "correct". At 4.7Ghz I need around 1.236V as it shows everywhere. CPUZ, MWM, CoreTemp. I believe it can do 1.22-1.225V.
For 4.9Ghz which I'm right now I need 1.368V with just some quick changes in the settings.

Could tweak further although I cannot test it to see its its stable(which I doubt it) any way because even with my H100i at 100% I cannot keep this *non-dellided* chip under 98-100'C. Dammit.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Anyone on F15q here? I still get the frequent cold boot when I restart my computer on F14 and still on F15q.


F15q doesn't work well for many. Try F15r. I personally use moded F15r from here.

In any case, I don't think the issue is in BIOS... Do you have any other PCI/PCI-E and USB devices connected besides those that in your sig? Try to run the system just on iGPU, and SSD with XMP profile for RAM. Also remove all USB devices except keyboard, and mouse (maybe even mouse). Also load optimized defaults if you haven't yet.


----------



## Koniakki

After playing around with [email protected], [email protected] I settled at [email protected]

But my temps on prime go up to 80'C. Is this normal guys for a H100i running at Performance/Maximum speed?


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koniakki*
> 
> After playing around with [email protected], [email protected] I settled at [email protected]
> 
> But my temps on prime go up to 80'C. Is this normal guys for a H100i running at Performance/Maximum speed?


If you are not de-lidded almost any temperature can be "normal". If you were delidded I would say no. More like 55C would be normal for that vcore.


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> If you are not de-lidded almost any temperature can be "normal". If you were delidded I would say no. More like 55C would be normal for that vcore.


Yeah, no doubt. I though of delidding it before even I bought it, but I have to seriously consider the warranty loss.

And I was also more "worried" about the temps that the H100i is giving me and not if the temps are normal for a 3770k.

They seems kinda high for a H100i at full speed with only a 1.19V on the chip.
If some other members with UD3H/UD5H with H100/H100i care to share their opinion/temps that would be great.

*P.S:* I'm starting to believe I should re-mount it and check again.


----------



## AppleJackXD

Im the proud owner of my first z77x-d3h motherboard and my first high end gaming build : ) Im so proud


----------



## PyroTechNiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AppleJackXD*
> 
> Im the proud owner of my first z77x-d3h motherboard and my first high end gaming build : ) Im so proud


Congrats mate.


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koniakki*
> 
> Yeah, no doubt. I though of delidding it before even I bought it, but I have to seriously consider the warranty loss.
> 
> And I was also more "worried" about the temps that the H100i is giving me and not if the temps are normal for a 3770k.
> 
> They seems kinda high for a H100i at full speed with only a 1.19V on the chip.
> If some other members with UD3H/UD5H with H100/H100i care to share their opinion/temps that would be great.
> 
> *P.S:* I'm starting to believe I should re-mount it and check again.


You must understand your temps have nothing to do with your cooler when you are not delidded. The heat is unable to transfer out of your cpu properly. Whether you have an h100i or a full custom loop or a hyper 212 you will all get about the same temp if the heat is locked inside of your cpu unable to dissapate through the cooler. I would delid or not overclock if i was having issues at 1.2v


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AppleJackXD*
> 
> Im the proud owner of my first z77x-d3h motherboard and my first high end gaming build : ) Im so proud


Enjoy!


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> You must understand your temps have nothing to do with your cooler when you are not delidded. The heat is unable to transfer out of your cpu properly. Whether you have an h100i or a full custom loop or a hyper 212 you will all get about the same temp if the heat is locked inside of your cpu unable to dissapate through the cooler. I would delid or not overclock if i was having issues at 1.2v


I get it, but like you said: "The heat is unable to transfer out of your cpu *properly*".. Properly, but not as in not transferring it at all, which then I would accept the argument of same temps on a CWC, CLC or air cooler, which then indeed would be the same if heat got "trapped" in the IHS..

That means all those reviewers out there that tested all those different coolers(air and clc) using a 3770K at stock/OC means that they had they CPU delidded?


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koniakki*
> 
> I get it, but like you said: "The heat is unable to transfer out of your cpu *properly*".. Properly, but not as in not transferring it at all, which then I would accept the argument of same temps on a CWC, CLC or air cooler, which then indeed would be the same if heat got "trapped" in the IHS..
> 
> That means all those reviewers out there that tested all those different coolers(air and clc) using a 3770K at stock/OC means that they had they CPU delidded?


No, they just had a better manufactured cpu than you happen to have in your hands. Mine was able to do 4.9 and 1.4v without crossing 90 degrees before I delidded. I delidded for 5ghz. They are all different and there is no way to come to a forum and say "should my cpu do this at this temperature" without delidding. Check out the ivy delidded club and you will see that temps after delidding actually begin to normalize and become fairly predictable. The majority of people that have delidded and are using liquid metal tim can pump 1.5v through their chip and stay under 80 degrees.


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> No, they just had a better manufactured cpu than you happen to have in your hands. Mine was able to do 4.9 and 1.4v without crossing 90 degrees before I delidded. I delidded for 5ghz. They are all different and there is no way to come to a forum and say "should my cpu do this at this temperature" without delidding. Check out the ivy delidded club and you will see that temps after delidding actually begin to normalize and become fairly predictable. The majority of people that have delidded and are using liquid metal tim can pump 1.5v through their chip and stay under 80 degrees.


Point taken. We all/most know about the IB temps/issue. I was just looking to compare temps with people with the UD3H/3770k and H100/H100i just to see if its all ok with the H100i and if its functioning properly or if it needs re-seating.

But I don't think this is the right place to ask that. Anw thanks chronicfx for your replies. Appreciated.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> No, they just had a better manufactured cpu than you happen to have in your hands. Mine was able to do 4.9 and 1.4v without crossing 90 degrees before I delidded. I delidded for 5ghz. They are all different and there is no way to come to a forum and say "should my cpu do this at this temperature" without delidding. Check out the ivy delidded club and you will see that temps after delidding actually begin to normalize and become fairly predictable. The majority of people that have delidded and are using liquid metal tim can pump 1.5v through their chip and stay under 80 degrees.


The inconsistency of temps is pretty insane, some people have as much as a 10c difference between cores before delidding. Then you factor in the natural variations in overclocking ability and it makes you (me) wonder if Intel didn't do it on purpose to limit how much "free" performance we could get out of these chips. Rarely, if ever, does the internal TIM impact stock chip performance or temps enough to matter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koniakki*
> 
> Point taken. We all/most know about the IB temps/issue. I was just looking to compare temps with people with the UD3H/3770k and H100/H100i just to see if its all ok with the H100i and if its functioning properly or if it needs re-seating.
> 
> But I don't think this is the right place to ask that. Anw thanks chronicfx for your replies. Appreciated.


3570k on a UD5H with an H220, at equal voltage our temps are within 5c. Kind of meaningless though, as I don't know what your ambient was when testing.


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> .......3570k on a UD5H with an H220, at equal voltage our temps are within 5c. Kind of meaningless though, as I don't know what your ambient was when testing.


Yeah, ambient was pretty high, maybe around 30+ probably.. Anw I'm at 4.9G'[email protected] as reported the last 10+ hours. Could try lower like 1.37-1.38 but I didn't bother. No crashes, bsod, hangs/freezes or anything.

I finished Heaven, Valley, BlackHole Benchmark, will try 3DMark11 now, I also did all AIDA64 2.50 version tests, some game's benches, etc.

Just basically my usual benchmark routine. Besides Prime95. That as already stated its a no go.

Also I will not delidded this for now. Maybe after 6-12months. I cannot replace a 300euros CPU now nor later. I must play it "safe".


----------



## Juub

Hey guys, I seem to have an issue with my Z77MX-D3H motherboard. Whatever software used to pick up sound coming from the microphone in the 3.5 mm jack seems not to be working.

Now I tried several different headsets and they all work with bluetooth or USB. Whenever I use the pink jack in the back panel for mic purposes, the mic is being detected but my voice does not go through. I tried two different devices and neither work. I also tried said devices on a Mac computer and they worked flawlessly. My guess is that it must be a driver issue rather than a hardware issue. If I plug them in the pink jack as headphones and not mics, I can hear the sound clearly.

I tried everything from enabling stereo mix to setting it up as default device. I updated all my drivers, I uninstalled the drivers, reinstalled them, disabled them and nothing works.



I think this thing above is related to the issue. I've followed the user guide of my motherboard and it didn't help. I tried to uninstall and reboot to see if this driver would install properly but it did not. I got code error 10.

Anyone knows what's up?


----------



## Nwanko

Can anyone tell why why i don't get a signal of of my old gts250 or 9500gt in any pci-e slot,but get normal post and video output with 7850 2gb.
Is there a workaround to get this working,i have to wait for my 7950 to come from RMA.
Tried F8,F14,F15(r,q)

Sys. spec:
3770k
z77x-ud5h
TX750W
agility3 60gb
1tbf3,1tbwdgreen
x-fi platinum Champion S.


----------



## fatherof3

Hey guys, - I have time on my hands but not enough to read 561 pages lol.

I have just ordered a ud5h, and moving from a p8z77 v pro.

Is there anything I should know about regarding bios's, chipset drivers, software to update etc etc etc,
I have a 3570k and hyper 212, with 2 m4 ssd's and 1 Maxtor hdd with a gtx 670 sig 2.

Any help/advice would be much appreciated









Thanks


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey guys, - I have time on my hands but not enough to read 561 pages lol.
> 
> I have just ordered a ud5h, and moving from a p8z77 v pro.
> 
> Is there anything I should know about regarding bios's, chipset drivers, software to update etc etc etc,
> I have a 3570k and hyper 212, with 2 m4 ssd's and 1 Maxtor hdd with a gtx 670 sig 2.
> 
> Any help/advice would be much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


All the latest drivers available here in the top stickied post:
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/

stasio maintains a comprehensive posting of all the latest drivers and utilities there at the TweakTown Gigabyte forum.

If it shipped with F14 BIOS you are probably good to go. If you want to try a beta then I recommend F15r available from that site.

Update Intel USB 3.0 driver for sure. (same site)


----------



## fatherof3

Hey mandrix thanks.

Ok with the p8 that I am coming from we had to stay away from the asmedia sata's is it the same with these boards, is there anything I need to watch out for along these lines?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey mandrix thanks.
> 
> Ok with the p8 that I am coming from we had to stay away from the asmedia sata's is it the same with these boards, is there anything I need to watch out for along these lines?


Make sure your SSD's are using the Intel controlled SATA ports. AHCI mode was enabled by default on my UD5H, bit it's always good to make sure it's set.


----------



## fatherof3

I also meant to add, when I am installing windows etc, does the bios have to completely be on defaults, (acknowledged the ahci)or can I enable the xmp profile (if that's possible like the p8 pro)

EDIT:
having had a look at the link, - I have a question or 2:

in the top section - all the lan drivers etc, i think my board does not have built in wifi, what do i do with these?

Intel® HD Graphics Driver 15.31.6.3111 Win7/8 64

do i still need this if i am using my grapics card?

the MEI's, there is firmware +ROM is there any specific i should use?

INF drivers? what are these?

I know about the RST's as the p8 had these - so the latest is the greatest? whats the difference between "tech" driver and "tech enterprise" driver? or do i need both?

Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility 4.0.6.102
Intel® Turbo Boost Technology Monitor 2.6
Intel® Processor Identification Utility 4.70
Intel® AHCI ROM 1.20E (23.03.2010)
Intel® RAID ROM 11.6.0.1702
Intel® RAID ROM (EFI SataDriver) 12.0.0.1783
Intel® RAID ROM 3.5.0.1005
Intel® RAID (EFI SataDriver) ROM 3.6.0.1023
trimcheck-0.4

Do i need all of these also?

Next section, i see the intel usb drivers - 1.08.251 will do? i dont know what 8/c220 series is or ow to check etc

gigabyte utilities, omg do i really need all these?

Bios tools, do i also need all these?

Award bios tools?

AMI BIOS tools?

Please excuse my thickness, and much respect to the dude thats took so long to write this guide, but not meaning to be a pain te the preverbial, - all this is aimed at people who ave a good general knowledge of what it all does and what its for, i do not have a barny mcgrew..

Also, in the second post, i do not see the Z77, all i see is haswell's,z87's, GA-Z87X-UD5H - isnt mine a Z77x ud5h?

http://www.dabs.com/products/gigabyte-z77x-ud5h-s1155-intel-z77-ddr3-atx-8001.html?utm_source=awin&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_content=AW00&awc=3044_1369748654_f04fd21555bf46e06ac16af8159b1571

all this "tech talk" is a complete technological minefield for the complete novice( el thicko )









I don't mean for someone to explain all this to me, just the bare essentials is fine - ie which ones I need and which is optional


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> I also meant to add, when I am installing windows etc, does the bios have to completely be on defaults, (acknowledged the ahci)or can I enable the xmp profile (if that's possible like the p8 pro)


My XMP profile was enabled, along with my overclock when I did my last install.


----------



## jayhay

Just did a build for a buddy and having an issue. I've used the UD5H for many builds and I'm miffed by this one.

Everything is at stock,
3570k
AX850 PSU
MSI 7950
8gb 1600 Crucial Ram
15r bios

I'm getting random reboots, usually no BSOD. I slowed down the ram to 1333 and it reboots, but still does it occasionally. No OC'ing anything. I'm thinking bad ram. Memtest comes back clean, but I got that bad ram feeling in my stomach. Any ideas?


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> My XMP profile was enabled, along with my overclock when I did my last install.


Thanks Skull, - I will enable the xmp, but will pass on the oc till all my software is in and running stable - - i'm not dissin your input.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Just did a build for a buddy and having an issue. I've used the UD5H for many builds and I'm miffed by this one.
> 
> Everything is at stock,
> 3570k
> AX850 PSU
> MSI 7950
> 8gb 1600 Crucial Ram
> 15r bios
> 
> I'm getting random reboots, usually no BSOD. I slowed down the ram to 1333 and it reboots, but still does it occasionally. No OC'ing anything. I'm thinking bad ram. Memtest comes back clean, but I got that bad ram feeling in my stomach. Any ideas?


Try rolling back to F14. I had some "memory" issues on my 3570k and UD5H, I had to add a little bit more voltage on the Vcore. No idea why but at stock speed and voltages I was getting all kinds of memory and NTFS errors, been running for a few months at 4.4Ghz with zero issues.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Try rolling back to F14. I had some "memory" issues on my 3570k and UD5H, I had to add a little bit more voltage on the Vcore. No idea why but at stock speed and voltages I was getting all kinds of memory and NTFS errors, been running for a few months at 4.4Ghz with zero issues.


You think it could be a vcore issue on a non-oc'd 3570? Weird. I love the board, but it is damned fickle with ram.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> You think it could be a vcore issue on a non-oc'd 3570? Weird. I love the board, but it is damned fickle with ram.


Mine was a Vcore issue, add an extra 0.05v and see if it helps. Unlike a lot of people this issue prevented me from under volting at stock speeds.


----------



## frag85

Granted every mobo/chip/stick is different my UD3H+3570k needs a little IMC to get the ram stable (from .95 to .975, might even be at 1.0 though). Adding more vcore seems to do the same thing for stability, even at stock frequencies.

If I had to make an educated guess, it is probably something to do with either the VRs+circuitry or the way voltage is handled _in_ the chip. LIke bumping up the Vcore changes the IMC voltage in some way (be it actual voltage or droop), so adding Vcore just kind of masks the need for more IMC voltage. Does this make sense? Is this how things work? Again, everyones hardware is different so this is just my cup of soup here.

Other than that it'll go to 4.9 by only bumping up the vcore a bit and nothing else. I leave VTT at its stock 1.05 since the XMP profile does 1.2 which seems kind of high if 1.05 works just fine. Changing VTT does nothing when I have the IMC at its default .95 and I get the memory and other errors.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> I also meant to add, when I am installing windows etc, does the bios have to completely be on defaults, (acknowledged the ahci)or can I enable the xmp profile (if that's possible like the p8 pro)
> 
> EDIT:
> having had a look at the link, - I have a question or 2:
> 
> in the top section - all the lan drivers etc, i think my board does not have built in wifi, what do i do with these?
> 
> Intel® HD Graphics Driver 15.31.6.3111 Win7/8 64
> 
> do i still need this if i am using my grapics card?
> 
> the MEI's, there is firmware +ROM is there any specific i should use?
> 
> INF drivers? what are these?
> 
> I know about the RST's as the p8 had these - so the latest is the greatest? whats the difference between "tech" driver and "tech enterprise" driver? or do i need both?
> 
> Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility 4.0.6.102
> Intel® Turbo Boost Technology Monitor 2.6
> Intel® Processor Identification Utility 4.70
> Intel® AHCI ROM 1.20E (23.03.2010)
> Intel® RAID ROM 11.6.0.1702
> Intel® RAID ROM (EFI SataDriver) 12.0.0.1783
> Intel® RAID ROM 3.5.0.1005
> Intel® RAID (EFI SataDriver) ROM 3.6.0.1023
> trimcheck-0.4
> 
> Do i need all of these also?
> 
> Next section, i see the intel usb drivers - 1.08.251 will do? i dont know what 8/c220 series is or ow to check etc
> 
> gigabyte utilities, omg do i really need all these?
> 
> Bios tools, do i also need all these?
> 
> Award bios tools?
> 
> AMI BIOS tools?
> 
> Please excuse my thickness, and much respect to the dude thats took so long to write this guide, but not meaning to be a pain te the preverbial, - all this is aimed at people who ave a good general knowledge of what it all does and what its for, i do not have a barny mcgrew..
> 
> Also, in the second post, i do not see the Z77, all i see is haswell's,z87's, GA-Z87X-UD5H - isnt mine a Z77x ud5h?
> 
> http://www.dabs.com/products/gigabyte-z77x-ud5h-s1155-intel-z77-ddr3-atx-8001.html?utm_source=awin&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_content=AW00&awc=3044_1369748654_f04fd21555bf46e06ac16af8159b1571
> 
> all this "tech talk" is a complete technological minefield for the complete novice( el thicko )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't mean for someone to explain all this to me, just the bare essentials is fine - ie which ones I need and which is optional


UD5H has two LAN ports, 1 Intel and 1 Qualcom Atheros. Use Intel if only one LAN port is used. Latest driver is 18.3 I think.
INF = chipset drivers. Only use 7 series.
Don't need Intel gpu drivers if using separate gpu cards

Don't worry about installing a bunch of extra crap until you get up and running and know what you are installing.

Sounds like you should just pop in the install disk that comes with the board after Windows is installed and fully updated. Then later you can learn/decide what you want to update in the way of drivers instead of just loading a bunch of stuff that you know nothing about. Sound good?


----------



## redfaction95

brothers...! i just bought brandnew ud3h but its not booting, it says 53 on the led debug, i have checked all connectors, they are fine, i checked my memory ram too on each and every slot and also system keeps reeboting on it own after every 6seconds....i will be so happy if u guys solve my problem, this is my first post in this community


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Sounds like you should just pop in the install disk that comes with the board after Windows is installed and fully updated. Then later you can learn/decide what you want to update in the way of drivers instead of just loading a bunch of stuff that you know nothing about. Sound good?


I wouldn't use the install CD, it's going to install a bunch of Gigabyte and Intel software that you'll most likely never touch. I'd just download the chipset and audio drivers, then later install the others if you're going to use them.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> brothers...! i just bought brandnew ud3h but its not booting, it says 53 on the led debug, i have checked all connectors, they are fine, i checked my memory ram too on each and every slot and also system keeps reeboting on it own after every 6seconds....i will be so happy if u guys solve my problem, this is my first post in this community


We'll need to know what memory you're using.


----------



## MME1122

Anyone know how much extra wattage the SATA connector supplies to the PCIe slots?


----------



## fatherof3

Hey mandrix, thanks,

yh it sounded good, until I remembered about the asus disk giving me a whole bunch of crap, that I had to uninstall.









Hey skull thanks,

that was what I was kinda thinking, - the chipset, the lan driver, the MEI, the RST and the usb 3, but that is pretty much it all isn't it?

I want to download all that i need so I can put it all on a stick and update them that way before windows is in, if that's possible?

And you reckon the F14(if I don't have it already) is the way to go? on the off chance, is updating the bios just the same as the asus? (usb or iso file).

So here's where I am at:

Creative SB X-Fi MB2 driver 1.0.0.3

Intel Management Engine Interface 8.1.0.1263 (maybe) I do not know whether I would need this or not.

Intel LAN Driver 17.4 - is this instead of my wireless adaptor driver? (some silly net gear crap) (maybe)

Intel® Rapid Storage Technology 11.6 (maybe) I have 2 ssd's so I guess I would?

Intel USB 3.0 Driver 1.0.5.235 I've not read into the boards usb quantities yet, I think I am running 5 at the moment (joystick, keyboard, mouse (wireless), usb stick, speakers (powered by usb)

I appreciate all your help guys










Paul

EDIT: which one is the chipset driver? as on the asus board it was called chipset driver but there was also the MEI and the RST.

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4439&dl=1#dl


----------



## deepor

Chipset driver is the one named "Intel INF installation". Get the download from here as it's a newer version: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html


----------



## fatherof3

Thanks Deepor


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> I also meant to add, when I am installing windows etc, does the bios have to completely be on defaults, (acknowledged the ahci)or can I enable the xmp profile (if that's possible like the p8 pro)
> 
> EDIT:
> having had a look at the link, - I have a question or 2:
> 
> in the top section - all the lan drivers etc, i think my board does not have built in wifi, what do i do with these?
> 
> Intel® HD Graphics Driver 15.31.6.3111 Win7/8 64
> 
> do i still need this if i am using my grapics card?
> 
> the MEI's, there is firmware +ROM is there any specific i should use?
> 
> INF drivers? what are these?
> 
> I know about the RST's as the p8 had these - so the latest is the greatest? whats the difference between "tech" driver and "tech enterprise" driver? or do i need both?
> 
> Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility 4.0.6.102
> Intel® Turbo Boost Technology Monitor 2.6
> Intel® Processor Identification Utility 4.70
> Intel® AHCI ROM 1.20E (23.03.2010)
> Intel® RAID ROM 11.6.0.1702
> Intel® RAID ROM (EFI SataDriver) 12.0.0.1783
> Intel® RAID ROM 3.5.0.1005
> Intel® RAID (EFI SataDriver) ROM 3.6.0.1023
> trimcheck-0.4
> 
> Do i need all of these also?
> 
> Next section, i see the intel usb drivers - 1.08.251 will do? i dont know what 8/c220 series is or ow to check etc
> 
> gigabyte utilities, omg do i really need all these?
> 
> Bios tools, do i also need all these?
> 
> Award bios tools?
> 
> AMI BIOS tools?
> 
> Please excuse my thickness, and much respect to the dude thats took so long to write this guide, but not meaning to be a pain te the preverbial, - all this is aimed at people who ave a good general knowledge of what it all does and what its for, i do not have a barny mcgrew..
> 
> Also, in the second post, i do not see the Z77, all i see is haswell's,z87's, GA-Z87X-UD5H - isnt mine a Z77x ud5h?
> 
> http://www.dabs.com/products/gigabyte-z77x-ud5h-s1155-intel-z77-ddr3-atx-8001.html?utm_source=awin&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_content=AW00&awc=3044_1369748654_f04fd21555bf46e06ac16af8159b1571
> 
> all this "tech talk" is a complete technological minefield for the complete novice( el thicko )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't mean for someone to explain all this to me, just the bare essentials is fine - ie which ones I need and which is optional


Intel® AHCI ROM 1.20E (23.03.2010)
Intel® RAID ROM 11.6.0.1702
Intel® RAID ROM (EFI SataDriver) 12.0.0.1783
Intel® RAID ROM 3.5.0.1005
Intel® RAID (EFI SataDriver) ROM 3.6.0.1023

those are for modding the bios, i run a modded bios with all the latest crap, because i love to have last version of everything

and you just need:

irst
intel mei
sound, lan, drivers
your gpu driver, disable intel igp in bios
usb3 via drivers, also intel usb3, for win8 you don´t need intel usb3

that is all


----------



## fatherof3

Hey Sixor,

Thanks for that


----------



## redfaction95

Bro, i am using xms3 4gb 2x2 1600mhz....


----------



## Sir Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Bro, i am using xms3 4gb 2x2 1600mhz....


I'm skeptical if this will make a difference but have you tried resetting the bios / clearing the cmos memory?


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Noob*
> 
> I'm skeptical if this will make a difference but have you tried resetting the bios / clearing the cmos memory?


I dont know how to do it







...by removing cell or by cmos button or the cmos pins at the bottom....?


----------



## Sir Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> I dont know how to do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...by removing cell or by cmos button or the cmos pins at the bottom....?


Try it with the clear cmos button at first. Did you buy your ram as a kit or did you but it as 2 individual sets?


----------



## Belial

Z77X-UD5H, I7-3770k, w7 64bit.

Can you run 3 monitors off the igpu? Is there any restrictions, like 2 have to be displayport, or same resolutions or something like that?

Thanks.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Z77X-UD5H, I7-3770k, w7 64bit.
> 
> Can you run 3 monitors off the igpu? Is there any restrictions, like 2 have to be displayport, or same resolutions or something like that?
> 
> Thanks.


"One other interesting addition to Intel HD 4000 Graphics is the ability to drive triple monitors. Unfortunately some limitations exist and only motherboards supporting two DisplayPort outputs and one other output would allow you to use three monitors. There are some additional limitations as well but we will cover those in a future article. In short, I would not count on Intel HD 4000 Graphics for triple monitor support for now on the desktop, particularly since no motherboards I have been able to find have two DisplayPort outputs."

Source: http://brycv.com/blog/2012/ivy-bridge-processor-guide/


----------



## CptAsian

Hello, just kinda hopping in here. I've got a little situation with my UD5H, and I was wondering if someone could give me some pointers. A few of you may have heard of this problem before, and I've done some Googling, but I haven't found a solution. When I reboot my computer, the debug light reads "A0", but after I put it to sleep and wake it back up again, it says "D3", which means "Some of the Architectural Protocols are not available." I haven't recognized any problems, and I'm not even sure what this means. If somebody could clear this up for me, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Belial

thanks skullwipe, thats very dissapointing. but, i have heard reports of people doing it. despite what official literature says, people have done it. just not many as itseems most people dont attempt it. i was going to try it with my tv but i just packed it ;/

cptasian, dont worry about the code. its an 'issue' when coming from sleep, it means nothing. if you really care, play around with your s3, s6, sleep states,ErP, etc. it has to do with when going to sleep and then power going off to the debug on certain sleep states that just messes up the code when waking from sleep. im sure youll find that practically, there are no issues. i asled this question earlier in this thread but its not easy to search on because i think some people get different codes or whatever.


----------



## Jedson3614

I own this board and its dog ****, THe board itself is decent but the bios is horrid. I had to flash a modified bios myself just to get it working well. This board needs alot of attention and work still and its liek gigabyte just forgot about z77 especially this board.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedson3614*
> 
> I own this board and its dog ****, THe board itself is decent but the bios is horrid. I had to flash a modified bios myself just to get it working well. This board needs alot of attention and work still and its liek gigabyte just forgot about z77 especially this board.


I put mine out of service a few months ago. It did all the basics very well but SYS fan control doesn't work, and my VIA USB 3.0 headers stopped working.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> cptasian, dont worry about the code. its an 'issue' when coming from sleep, it means nothing. if you really care, play around with your s3, s6, sleep states,ErP, etc. it has to do with when going to sleep and then power going off to the debug on certain sleep states that just messes up the code when waking from sleep. im sure youll find that practically, there are no issues. i asled this question earlier in this thread but its not easy to search on because i think some people get different codes or whatever.


Thanks, that makes me feel better.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Noob*
> 
> Try it with the clear cmos button at first. Did you buy your ram as a kit or did you but it as 2 individual sets?


Bro, i bought them as a kit, used them 1.5years on asus P8P67 board,....and i tried pushing that button too and shorting pins too....but i am wondering that, what do u think, with or without ram sticks it should give 53 .....?


----------



## redfaction95

And also adding that, on every assembly of my p8p67 the situation was same i mean whenever i reassembled my previous setup, the story happened was same, but i always overcome that by MemOK button....which is not here in ud3h


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> And also adding that, on every assembly of my p8p67 the situation was same i mean whenever i reassembled my previous setup, the story happened was same, but i always overcome that by MemOK button....which is not here in ud3h


That means the sticks have an issue, and your old motherboard was simply running through the settings until it found some that would allow it to boot. You shouldn't be surprised when memory that's known to have issues continues to have issues on a new board.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> That means the sticks have an issue, and your old motherboard was simply running through the settings until it found some that would allow it to boot. You shouldn't be surprised when memory that's known to have issues continues to have issues on a new board.


today i also tried changing to vengeance 4gb 1600mhz single ram stick ..........and tried it in each slot but same error 53
and i also checked my both ram sticks in friends computer and they are working fine, he has a gigabyte b75 something.........


----------



## Sir Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Bro, i bought them as a kit, used them 1.5years on asus P8P67 board,....and i tried pushing that button too and shorting pins too....but i am wondering that, what do u think, with or without ram sticks it should give 53 .....?


Could the case be shorting the motherboard out?


----------



## fatherof3

I see this board(UD5H) has ESD protection, - does this work?

Not that I will rely on it, as I will still take steps to ground myself, but should my method fail will it be ok?

(I cut the ends of a yellow composite lead off (I have loads of them), - attach one end inside my sock, and the other end tied onto my copper radiator pipe) - silly - yes probably, - effective? - I guess so!

just to confirm?

the black sata ports are intels 3gbs ports and the LIGHT grey ports are my ssd(6gbs) ports?

My front panel header I only have my power, my reset, hd led and power led on my case cables, does this mean that's all I have to connect? I see in te manual something about intrusion header and speakers, - my speakers are usb powered with a 3.5mm jack for the back io panel

Also, I have my hyper on push pull, but I only see cpu-fan, where does my second fan get plugged in? I have sys fan 1/2/3/4, so I guess in there?

My case has 4 fans but they are connected to the cases own controllers


----------



## Sir Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> I see this board(UD5H) has ESD protection, - does this work?
> 
> Not that I will rely on it, as I will still take steps to ground myself, but should my method fail will it be ok?
> 
> (I cut the ends of a yellow composite lead off (I have loads of them), - attach one end inside my sock, and the other end tied onto my copper radiator pipe) - silly - yes probably, - effective? - I guess so!
> 
> just to confirm?
> 
> the black sata ports are intels 3gbs ports and the LIGHT grey ports are my ssd(6gbs) ports?
> 
> My front panel header I only have my power, my reset, hd led and power led on my case cables, does this mean that's all I have to connect? I see in te manual something about intrusion header and speakers, - my speakers are usb powered with a 3.5mm jack for the back io panel
> 
> Also, I have my hyper on push pull, but I only see cpu-fan, where does my second fan get plugged in? I have sys fan 1/2/3/4, so I guess in there?
> 
> My case has 4 fans but they are connected to the cases own controllers


The light grey ports are the Intel sata 6GB/s, if you are connecting a ssd remember to set AHCI in the bios. I also think that the Marvell has a sata 6GB/s connector but if you have the option use the Intel ones.

For your front panel header you only have to connect the ones you are going to use, I don't have the reset button connected nor any of the activity lights connected and it still works fine. I don't have my front panel speakers connected to the header due to the cable being too short, but I would connect it if I had the option for convenience.


----------



## fatherof3

Hey sir thanks,

ok, 2 ssd's in my intel ports and my 1 hdd into my intel 3gbs port,

I will just try my 2nd cpu fan in the fan 1 port, and see where it takes me, if I need to come back when its built I will still have at least 1 cooler fan going.

Right im going to shut down now and start.

thanks

Oh, is it best to format my ssd's/hdd now or when I am reinstallin windows? or does it not matter?


----------



## Sir Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey sir thanks,
> 
> ok, 2 ssd's in my intel ports and my 1 hdd into my intel 3gbs port,
> 
> I will just try my 2nd cpu fan in the fan 1 port, and see where it takes me, if I need to come back when its built I will still have at least 1 cooler fan going.
> 
> Right im going to shut down now and start.
> 
> thanks
> 
> Oh, is it best to format my ssd's/hdd now or when I am reinstallin windows? or does it not matter?


I find its best to install Windows with only the drive you are going to install windows to as the windows installer can do some pretty dumb things such as put the bootloader (gpt / mbr) on your D: drive instead of the C: drive where you want it, this can cause some problems.

I would format the boot drive during the installer and then add the HDD afterwards then format the HDD through Disk Managment.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Noob*
> 
> I find its best to install Windows with only the drive you are going to install windows to as the windows installer can do some pretty dumb things such as put the bootloader (gpt / mbr) on your D: drive instead of the C: drive where you want it, this can cause some problems.
> 
> I would format the boot drive during the installer and then add the HDD afterwards then format the HDD through Disk Managment.


Agreed, I had some issues related to this, was a real pain in the butt. Ended up having to do a reinstall to fix the problem.


----------



## Nwanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> I see this board(UD5H) has ESD protection, - does this work?
> 
> Not that I will rely on it, as I will still take steps to ground myself, but should my method fail will it be ok?
> 
> (I cut the ends of a yellow composite lead off (I have loads of them), - attach one end inside my sock, and the other end tied onto my copper radiator pipe) - silly - yes probably, - effective? - I guess so!
> 
> just to confirm?
> 
> the black sata ports are intels 3gbs ports and the LIGHT grey ports are my ssd(6gbs) ports?
> 
> My front panel header I only have my power, my reset, hd led and power led on my case cables, does this mean that's all I have to connect? I see in te manual something about intrusion header and speakers, - my speakers are usb powered with a 3.5mm jack for the back io panel
> 
> Also, I have my hyper on push pull, but I only see cpu-fan, where does my second fan get plugged in? I have sys fan 1/2/3/4, so I guess in there?
> 
> My case has 4 fans but they are connected to the cases own controllers


The grey ports are Marvells the white are Intels,i says that in the user manual.


----------



## Sir Noob

Yeah your right, the white ports are the Intel 6GB/s. Sorry.

I checked on my motherboard to see where I had my drives plugged in. I couldn't see the light grey port as my graphics card was covering it blocking it from view, so I presumed that the white ports where the light grey ports.


----------



## fatherof3

Hey guys thanks, I signed out before I seen the replies.
Mobo is in and it booted straight to windows but I reinstalled windows anyway.

I have a problem getting connected to the net though,
Not sure why, drivers r in, the thernet is in yet device manager shows my exc mark so even trying to update it by doing the update driver and pointing it to the cd OR usb does not update it.

Too late for the hdd install, I installed windows with both ssd's and hd in but it seems ok and done the disk simple volume wizard thing, so that's good to go.

disregard that about the internet, - i am hooked up now, not sure why it wouldn't update first time round, but yh i pointed it to the directory for my cd drive, and it read the driver off the cd and not the usb i had it on.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey mandrix, thanks,
> 
> yh it sounded good, until I remembered about the asus disk giving me a whole bunch of crap, that I had to uninstall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey skull thanks,
> 
> that was what I was kinda thinking, - the chipset, the lan driver, the MEI, the RST and the usb 3, but that is pretty much it all isn't it?
> 
> I want to download all that i need so I can put it all on a stick and update them that way before windows is in, if that's possible?
> 
> And you reckon the F14(if I don't have it already) is the way to go? on the off chance, is updating the bios just the same as the asus? (usb or iso file).
> 
> So here's where I am at:
> 
> Creative SB X-Fi MB2 driver 1.0.0.3
> 
> Intel Management Engine Interface 8.1.0.1263 (maybe) I do not know whether I would need this or not.
> 
> Intel LAN Driver 17.4 - is this instead of my wireless adaptor driver? (some silly net gear crap) (maybe)
> 
> Intel® Rapid Storage Technology 11.6 (maybe) I have 2 ssd's so I guess I would?
> 
> Intel USB 3.0 Driver 1.0.5.235 I've not read into the boards usb quantities yet, I think I am running 5 at the moment (joystick, keyboard, mouse (wireless), usb stick, speakers (powered by usb)
> 
> I appreciate all your help guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paul
> 
> EDIT: which one is the chipset driver? as on the asus board it was called chipset driver but there was also the MEI and the RST.
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4439&dl=1#dl


I suggested just throwing the disk in as you seemed uncertain about your ability to pick the right drivers to install. Contrary to popular belief here, it won't trash your computer and you can still choose whether or not to install some things such as the Creative stuff. It will install the Marvell drivers, though, which I find unnecessary.
Looks like you got it running anyway, so you are good to go.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> Hello, just kinda hopping in here. I've got a little situation with my UD5H, and I was wondering if someone could give me some pointers. A few of you may have heard of this problem before, and I've done some Googling, but I haven't found a solution. When I reboot my computer, the debug light reads "A0", but after I put it to sleep and wake it back up again, it says "D3", which means "Some of the Architectural Protocols are not available." I haven't recognized any problems, and I'm not even sure what this means. If somebody could clear this up for me, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Sure the code isn't "03"? That's what my two boards always read when coming off sleep. It's no mystery.


----------



## fatherof3

Yh im all sorted mandrix thanks.

Although, I put my ram in slots 1 and 3(the 2 furthest away from the cpu, - but cpu-z shows im in single channel mode, also in the "SPD" tab, my ram shows as PC3-10700 (667) with the part number only partially correct, as being, F3-2400C10 -4GTX when its 8GTX,I am aware I have 2400 ram, and the "memory" tab shows it as 1200.4 frequency @ 1:9 ratio

Can you help straighten this out?

In the book it says :

>>Channel A: ddr3_2, ddr3_4
>>Channel B: ddr3_1, ddr3_3
So I put them in 1 and 3 wich are the 2 furthest away from the cpu, but below the mobo diagram it says:

install them in ddr3_1 and DDR3_2 sockets -

So which is it to be? -

I am guessing now that I see I am in single channel, then I should move a stick from slot 3 to slot 2


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> So which is it to be? -
> 
> I am guessing now that I see I am in single channel, then I should move a stick from slot 3 to slot 2


The sticks shouldn't be directly adjacent. It's a bad picture, but you can see which slots are occupied.


----------



## fatherof3

that's exactly what I thought- especially when I seen I was in single channel mode, its just that wit the book saying channel b - slots 1 and 3..
Will shut down and swap that stick over, - cheers skull









Any ideas about the rest of cpu-z?

Untitled.jpg 225k .jpg file


----------



## Sir Noob

Delete.


----------



## fatherof3

ok, swapped stick about so now I am in dual









Untitled2.jpg 253k .jpg file


Untitled3.jpg 248k .jpg file


Max bandwidth shows as still 667.

2nd pic I reset my xmp to default, as the first pic was profile 3


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Noob*
> 
> Is your XMP profile properly set up?
> 
> I read on hexus that the TridentX come with appropriate XMP profiles for the speeds.
> 
> But make sure the Timings are correct, Volts are at 1.65, and the multiplier is at 24x.
> 
> At least, I think those are the settings to check for, but I have never had to do this myself, so I might be wrong here.


Hi sir,

Yh I had to go to the 3d mode to be able to change the xmp manually?? not sure why, - I will reboot and just set everything to default again, and see what comes up









Ram multi is on 24 and 1.65V


----------



## fatherof3

OK soz for the double post

Untitled4.jpg 197k .jpg file


bios defaults, timings auto, voltage auto @1.5v
default - xmp disabled
mem multi - auto and freq @1333 which explains the pic above


----------



## deepor

About that slot number, I've put it in slot 1 and 3 on the board just like in the photo of Mr. Skullwipe. This makes it listed as slot #1 and #2 in that SPD tab in CPU-Z. It shows #3 and #4 as empty. Don't look at that slot number in CPU-Z. Look at the physical arrangement on the board.

About that low MHz number you circled, that's just what it wants to run at by default. If you select the XMP profile, this will be ignored by the board. All memory sticks also have old and slow numbers listed in their profile chip, not only the fast XMP profiles.


----------



## fatherof3

Hey Deepor thanks

cpu-z still shows part no as being pc3 10700 even thouh its 19200 - spd ext on cpu z sows xmp 1.3

I guess I am not that overly concerned about what cpu z is showing, as long as I know (I am now) that I was in dual channel, and my ram is running @ 1200(2400)

I guess, the change of mobo, is throwing me a bit, as I am used to sh~tasus, where when xmp was enabled it auto went to 2400 and with this you still seem to have to set it manually (the multi?)


----------



## deepor

I don't have to set multi manually. It can be on Auto, I think (though not sure as I tweaked things manually a little). Selecting one of the XMP profiles will get all numbers out of that, including voltage and multiplier.


----------



## fatherof3

I have set it to profile 1, the multi seems to be @24 but I am not sure if the voltage is 1.5 or 1.65, is there a way I can check?

EDIT:

On the timings table of cpu-z it shows, 2 xmp-2400 beside the jedecs, and they show 1.65, but none show the 10/12/12/31 - they sow 10/13/13/33 43/2T and 10/13/13/3/43/1T

makes it sound so much like some woman's particulars don't it?


----------



## deepor

If you look in the UEFI and go down into the menu where you would manually set all timings, you'll see the numbers the board gets out of the profile in a dark blue beside all the input boxes that are all saying Auto by default. Those dark blue numbers change and increase if you go up with the multiplier manually, so you need to have multiplier on Auto to see the real contents of the XMP profile. If you switch between the two XMP profiles you should see some of the numbers change a little.

DRAM voltage from the profile is mentioned just like that in a number beside the input box, I think.


----------



## fatherof3

Thanks dude,

I will have a look shortly, - been too busy catching up with the isle of Mann TT


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hey Guys, I need help here

I have started overclocking my i7 3770k on Z77X-UD5H but I always get rounding errors at certain point in Prime95.

I use BIOS F15q beta and my OC is at 4.5 Ghz with 1.25vcore.

Ram is low at 1600Mhz.

Can someone lead me in the right direction?


----------



## deepor

Did you try some solid increase for VCore? Try adding +0.025 V for example, not just a single +0.005 V step. You could also try your current VCore voltage at 4.4 GHz and see if that runs stable. That's usually how it works: if something is nearly stable at a certain speed, going down one 100 MHz step will run that stable guaranteed but with room to tweak voltage downwards. Checking if IntelBurnTest (or LinX) runs fine goes fast and is enough for that. It'll run through 10 passes at default settings in under two minutes.

If that doesn't work, then you'll know you have a problem. You'll have to go at it with some sort of plan in that case, checking everything and making notes, working your way up from a point you know is absolutely stable, also trying CPU overclock and RAM speeds separately (which you already seem to do), etc.

Also, mentioning what Load Line Calibration (LLC) setting you use is important for VCore numbers. Voltage will drop a lot with the standard LLC setting. High and Turbo should be the ones keeping voltage nearly constant and high when stress tests increase load.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Did you try some solid increase for VCore? Try adding +0.025 V for example, not just a single +0.005 V step.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You could also try your current VCore voltage at 4.4 GHz and see if that runs stable. That's usually how it works: if something is nearly stable at a certain speed, going down one 100 MHz step will run that stable guaranteed but with room to tweak voltage downwards. Checking if IntelBurnTest (or LinX) runs fine goes fast and is enough for that. It'll run through 10 passes at default settings in under two minutes.
> 
> If that doesn't work, then you'll know you have a problem. You'll have to go at it with some sort of plan in that case, checking everything and making notes, working your way up from a point you know is absolutely stable, also trying CPU overclock and RAM speeds separately (which you already seem to do), etc.
> 
> Also, mentioning what Load Line Calibration (LLC) setting you use is important for VCore numbers. Voltage will drop a lot with the standard LLC setting. High and Turbo should be the ones keeping voltage nearly constant and high when stress tests increase load.


Thanks for your time and for your help.

I have tried everything until I said to myself, "hey, let's try stock". Still rounding errors in prime95.

That is where I realized something was wrong, decided to run Memtest86+







. Millions of errors on one stick.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Thanks for your time and for your help.
> 
> I have tried everything until I said to myself, "hey, let's try stock". Still rounding errors in prime95.
> 
> That is where I realized something was wrong, decided to run Memtest86+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Millions of errors on one stick.


I prefer bad memory to anything else, cheap enough to pick up an extra two sticks to get by so you can still use your system, and they almost always have a lifetime warranty.


----------



## mandrix

Both of my Z77 UD5H boards have been fun, but Haswell is here and time for Z87 UD5H. The boards are for sale-no problem, as well as the 4770K.
But where, oh where is Gigabyte's listing for 1150 based motherboards? I would surely like to look at a memory compatibility list, although I guess I can go to the manufacturers sites and check.

EDIT:
I found where they are hiding the 1150 boards download sections....and I ordered my new Z87X UD5H
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4483#ov


----------



## fatherof3

Hey guys,

Right I am ready to kick the ass out my chip.

Before with my old p8 z77 pro

I had to do the oc tuner, then manually the multi to 48 @1.328(cpuz - I cant remember what it was in bios but was with + offset) as the board would not allow me to change settings manually(well it did it would just not maintain them).

I don't what to start throwing volts at it.

I am @ 4.8 just now with my cpu @ 1.36, but 10 mins into prime, I bsod - what do I do now? I realize the principles are the same, but I have read things like vtt as to be within 0.05 of something etc etc.

Is there any basic rules I can work from? i.e. what to/what not to disable/enable etc. etc.?

Thanks


----------



## DeXel

Just increase keep increasing vcore, and set LLC to higher level. VTT shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## fatherof3

Hey Dexel, thanks

When you say "higher, do you mean higher than my vcore?

There is a few LLC's can you elaborate?


----------



## DeXel

Vcore LLC. Set it at Turbo for minimal vdroop. I think you left it on auto which is why you need so much more voltage over your Asus board.


----------



## fatherof3

Ah ok, im sure my asus was quite a bit lower, - cpuz was 1.328 for 4.8, whereas now I am hitting 1.36, wit temps hittin 82/83

I just cannot it 4.9, I would rather not o above 1.4 / 85 deg whichever comes first, as i'm only on ahyper212.

this board is so different to navigate, as I am used to the asus.

EDIT: my apologies, - I cannot find this vcore pll EDIT: - LLC - I went into adv freq/advanced cpucore features, but cant seem to find it

I am struggling with 4.9, - even with vcore @1.425 - if I have to stick @ 4.8 and 1.3 then it has to be, - 0.1v of a jump for 100mhz aint worth it.

EDIT: found it - bloody hell I couldn't see the trees for the forest being in the way.

thanks DeXel

EDIT: yet again - I just cannot hit this 4.9, my bsod even crashed @70%

I will stick at 4.8 I think - until I delid next January.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Both of my Z77 UD5H boards have been fun, but Haswell is here and time for Z87 UD5H. The boards are for sale-no problem, as well as the 4770K.
> But where, oh where is Gigabyte's listing for 1150 based motherboards? I would surely like to look at a memory compatibility list, although I guess I can go to the manufacturers sites and check.
> 
> EDIT:
> I found where they are hiding the 1150 boards download sections....and I ordered my new Z87X UD5H
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4483#ov


http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/334/images/spec.html

also posted on TT forum .......2-3 days ago
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html#post284764


----------



## fatherof3

Hey guys,

I am in a pickle here.

I reseated my heatsink and now it won't boot.

Witth the ram horizontal t flashes 51 then 15 then tries to restart.

Zomething about pre memory northbridge init has started.

Any advice?


----------



## stasio

Check for CPU socket bent pins and/or reseat your memory slots and/or be sure dinn't tight heatsink to much.


----------



## fatherof3

Hey thanks, I think I hve. Faulty ram slot, with either stick in either 1st or 2nd slot it boots fine, as soon as I put either stick in that 3rd slot it errors.


----------



## fatherof3

Sorry for double post I can't see how to exit on his tblet hing. I did not remove the cpu and I am sure I did not overtighten he hsf


----------



## fatherof3

Sorry for double post I can't see how to exit on his tblet hing. I did not remove the cpu and I am sure I did not overtighten he hsf

Ok I lackened off the 4 screws one at a time and retried it to no avail. My hsf is off but for the very brief second it won't overheat.

What now?

Edit. It appears I may have overtightened it, though if I lacked it off I cannot tighten my cooler vey good.the shop is going to rma it for me so no pc for 10 days


----------



## jayhay

So the BIG question. Are we going to get an updated bios with the new z87 interface? I hope so, as I feel the bios is and has been pretty poor on this series and board. I'm still waiting on a final, because f14 should not be it. Hopefully the Gigabyte engineers throw us z77'ers a bone.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> So the BIG question. Are we going to get an updated bios with the new z87 interface? I hope so, as I feel the bios is and has been pretty poor on this series and board. I'm still waiting on a final, because f14 should not be it. Hopefully the Gigabyte engineers throw us z77'ers a bone.


Sin hinted awhile back that the Z77 boards would see a new stable release after the Z87 boards released. Hopefully we won't have long to wait.


----------



## CravinR1

Add me please


----------



## stasio

Guys,
good news.........*Z77 Beta (test) BIOS is back on track today* !!


----------



## PyroTechNiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Guys,
> good news.........*Z77 Beta (test) BIOS is back on track today* !!


Installed F16Co. So far so good.


----------



## Sin0822

good good.


----------



## mandrix

My backup rig is running a UD5H. For a while it's had 2x 6850's in crossfire, but I finally bought another 7950 for the one I robbed for my main rig, a PowerColor AX7950 2DHV4.

Problem is it will do nothing when sitting in top pcie slot. No video, nada.

Move it down to the x8 slot and it works fine.

Put a 6850 back in the top slot and it works fine. Put the 7950 in top slot and nothing.

Tried all the usual stuff, reset cmos, tried both F15r & F14 bios but no good. I don't usually need help, but this has got me confused.
Can't try it in my other rig right now as it's stripped down waiting on a new Z87 board to come in.

Any ideas?

EDIT:
Strangely enough, as long as there is any kind of card in the second slot, the 7950 works in the first slot. Pull the second card, and poof! no video. Very strange, but at least now I know my new card works!


----------



## cab2

Do you have anything in the last PCIEx4 slot at the bottom?


----------



## Nwanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> My backup rig is running a UD5H. For a while it's had 2x 6850's in crossfire, but I finally bought another 7950 for the one I robbed for my main rig, a PowerColor AX7950 2DHV4.
> 
> Problem is it will do nothing when sitting in top pcie slot. No video, nada.
> 
> Move it down to the x8 slot and it works fine.
> 
> Put a 6850 back in the top slot and it works fine. Put the 7950 in top slot and nothing.
> 
> Tried all the usual stuff, reset cmos, tried both F15r & F14 bios but no good. I don't usually need help, but this has got me confused.
> Can't try it in my other rig right now as it's stripped down waiting on a new Z87 board to come in.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> EDIT:
> Strangely enough, as long as there is any kind of card in the second slot, the 7950 works in the first slot. Pull the second card, and poof! no video. Very strange, but at least now I know my new card works!


I have a similar problem,i already posted but no responce.

My GTS250 and 9500GT don't work in any slot,but my friends 7850 2gb works just fine. Still waiting for my 7950 to come from RMA.


----------



## redfaction95

What the fack is this.... ? :/
My ud3h bios is f18 rev1.1 ......and can anybody help me please...? Its very laggy unlike my old p8p67's bios....


----------



## dougb62

I'm scratching my head here... When I boot up (UD5H), the boot splash screen is wonky. Not messed up, just too big for the screen (can't see anything but the center), and when I hit Del, the screen goes blank, and nothing happens (visually). It just stays that way. I just updated the Intel graphics driver, and I currently have no GPU installed. After updating, I rebooted four times, and still the same issue. I noticed before that it took a couple of reboots to correct this, after the initial build (after windows install, after GB driver disk install), I even rolled back the driver in windows, but to no avail. So, I reinstalled the latest update, and figured I'd ask here. Any suggestions?


----------



## Gerbacio

my Asrock is destroying my video cards and i was debating between this and a ASUS

this thread has scared the @@@@ out of me ! so many issues :S


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys I'm just about to upgrade to a 3470. Do I need to take any precautions or do I need to reset anything before I upgrade my CPU?

Thanks.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gerbacio*
> 
> my Asrock is destroying my video cards and i was debating between this and a ASUS
> 
> this thread has scared the @@@@ out of me ! so many issues :S


You do realize that the majority of posts in threads like these are for user support, right? I've had a few small issues here and there, mostly due to my lack of knowledge, but over all my UD5H has been a fantastic board.


----------



## Gerbacio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> You do realize that the majority of posts in threads like these are for user support, right? I've had a few small issues here and there, mostly due to my lack of knowledge, but over all my UD5H has been a fantastic board.


yeah i was being funny...i think i found a solution for my issue but if it gives me a problem ill most likely get a gigabyte ....had them previously and LOVED them! amazing company! SOLID products!


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gerbacio*
> 
> yeah i was being funny...i think i found a solution for my issue but if it gives me a problem ill most likely get a gigabyte ....had them previously and LOVED them! amazing company! SOLID products!


This is my first, doubt it will be my last.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> You do realize that the majority of posts in threads like these are for user support, right? I've had a few small issues here and there, mostly due to my lack of knowledge, but over all my UD5H has been a fantastic board.


Same here, I've been very happy with my UD5H.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gerbacio*
> 
> my Asrock is destroying my video cards and i was debating between this and a ASUS
> 
> this thread has scared the @@@@ out of me ! so many issues :S


I've been fairly happy with my Z77x-UD3H, only issue I've really had is the VIA USB3 controller not working right with a few USB devices. I had a X58-UD4P with my 920 and between that and this z77 board, they OC with the best and use quality components and are pretty durable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys I'm just about to upgrade to a 3470. Do I need to take any precautions or do I need to reset anything before I upgrade my CPU?
> 
> Thanks.


I would reset bios defaults just in case. Other than that it should be a quick swap.


----------



## ilmmaf

Hey guys and thanks for continually posting awesome information. I troll around and have picked up some useful tips. Thank you for that. The particular problem I am coming across is this.. I have a UD5H, and I just dusted off an older HTR-6130 receiver. It has toslink out, and a digital coaxial out, among other things.

Right now I have about 4 cords strung together from the RCA outputs in the receiver, to the 3.5mm input on the back of my pc. I know I must be losing some sound quality here, but I don't know what to do.

I read what was written earlier about using the proper media player, like Vlc, to be able to use the toslink out. I wasn't able to understand if there was a special way that I needed to enable this, so I haven't tried it yet. My major concern though is that about 95% of the movies I watch are on XBMC, 3% on netflix, and the remainder from downloaded torrents. I'd like to make use of the 5.1 speaker surround sound setup I poured my last paycheck into, but I cannot figure out what my next move is.

Please..please please help me figure out what I need to do in order to accomplish at least a few of my goals. Thanks!


----------



## deepor

I never used it, but isn't it just selecting the "SPDIF interface" output as default device instead of "Speakers" in Windows?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilmmaf*
> 
> Hey guys and thanks for continually posting awesome information. I troll around and have picked up some useful tips. Thank you for that. The particular problem I am coming across is this.. I have a UD5H, and I just dusted off an older HTR-6130 receiver. It has toslink out, and a digital coaxial out, among other things.
> 
> Right now I have about 4 cords strung together from the RCA outputs in the receiver, to the 3.5mm input on the back of my pc. I know I must be losing some sound quality here, but I don't know what to do.
> 
> I read what was written earlier about using the proper media player, like Vlc, to be able to use the toslink out. I wasn't able to understand if there was a special way that I needed to enable this, so I haven't tried it yet. My major concern though is that about 95% of the movies I watch are on XBMC, 3% on netflix, and the remainder from downloaded torrents. I'd like to make use of the 5.1 speaker surround sound setup I poured my last paycheck into, but I cannot figure out what my next move is.
> 
> Please..please please help me figure out what I need to do in order to accomplish at least a few of my goals. Thanks!


Easy, use the toslink, optical cable from your ud5h to receiver. This is a digital connection and will work much better for sound and movie playback than analog 3.5 connections, especially if you want dolbly digital or dts surround. Make the optical output the default sound output on your comp. Then watch netfilx and enjoy (no digital surround sound from netflix tho), use vlc or powerdvd for you movies you torrent or download. Powerdvd is better than vlc for HD movies. Hope this helps.


----------



## sixor

on the ud3h mixing via + intel usb has been the worse fail in history, i will never buy another mobo in my life with via crap, i swear

1 year has passed and i still have usb issues, after trying every driver, bios, etc

the main problem i believe is that i use all my usb, and the mobo has no enough power to use them all properly

usb printer
x360 pad
usb wifi
usb hdd
usb flashdrive
usb mouse
usb micro usb cable for nexus 4

sometimes when i plug my hdd, flash drive, cable, (anything) all the other usb dies, i have to restart pc or unplug something

my x360 pad can´t work on every usb slot, the same goes for my wifi usb, and the same for my mouse, lol, really gigabyte?

also another bad thing about ud3h is boot speed, wow, that is so slow, it is lame, sure i know having raid add some time, but still ud3h takes too much time, my pc and laptop have ssd and win8, my laptop starts almost 2x faster than my pc,, just after you press power it takes like 5-10secs to show password screen, also bios development stopped like in november 2012, there are betas but way too unstable

i am going asus the next time


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> on the ud3h mixing via + intel usb has been the worse fail in history, i will never buy another mobo in my life with via crap, i swear
> 
> 1 year has passed and i still have usb issues, after trying every driver, bios, etc
> 
> the main problem i believe is that i use all my usb, and the mobo has no enough power to use them all properly
> 
> usb printer
> x360 pad
> usb wifi
> usb hdd
> usb flashdrive
> usb mouse
> usb micro usb cable for nexus 4
> 
> sometimes when i plug my hdd, flash drive, cable, (anything) all the other usb dies, i have to restart pc or unplug something
> 
> my x360 pad can´t work on every usb slot, the same goes for my wifi usb, and the same for my mouse, lol, really gigabyte?
> 
> also another bad thing about ud3h is boot speed, wow, that is so slow, it is lame, sure i know having raid add some time, but still ud3h takes too much time, my pc and laptop have ssd and win8, my laptop starts almost 2x faster than my pc,, just after you press power it takes like 5-10secs to show password screen, also bios development stopped like in november 2012, there are betas but way too unstable
> 
> i am going asus the next time


I use USB Wifi, 360 pad, USB headphones, USB powered HDD and charge my phone all at the same time with no issues. Plus my mouse and keyboard are plugged into the two USB 2 ports in the back. Your printer isn't powered by the port, so the only real difference in USB power is that the UD5H has a higher powered USB 2 header for rapid charging.

Keep is mind that ASUS uses an on board hub as well, even on the Z87 boards only two USB 3 ports at the rear are powered by the chipset directly.


----------



## Scott1541

I had USB issues at first but after I let windows 8 update for the first time everything was fine and I haven't had any problems since.

Are all of the ports 900mA on a D3H? I think the front ones are as my phone charges very fast compared to my laptop


----------



## Gerbacio

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128544

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128546

which one of these would be a good buy

im currently on a asrock Extreme 6!


----------



## deepor

If it's really cheaper, buy the Z77X-UD3H. The two are pretty similar, but the Z77X-D3H is (mainly) missing some luxury features that are on the UD3H like an error display and buttons for power and stuff.


----------



## DeXel

Just keep using your Extreme6. It's not much of an upgrade.


----------



## MME1122

So I had an idea.

In speedfan, I see 3 PWM controls with my UD3H. If I understand correctly, one is the system fans, one is the CPU fan header PWM, and the third is also the CPU fan header but it modifies the voltage, not the PWM signal, allowing control of 3 pin fans.

So I was thinking about using a 4 pin extension and seperating the PWM wire. That leaves normal 3 pin to be controlled in the voltage manner. Then add the PWM wire to another header and add either molex power or power from a non-pwm header. And now instead of 2 sets of fans I would now have 3 that I can control.

Thoughts?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> So I had an idea.
> 
> In speedfan, I see 3 PWM controls with my UD3H. If I understand correctly, one is the system fans, one is the CPU fan header PWM, and the third is also the CPU fan header but it modifies the voltage, not the PWM signal, allowing control of 3 pin fans.
> 
> So I was thinking about using a 4 pin extension and seperating the PWM wire. That leaves normal 3 pin to be controlled in the voltage manner. Then add the PWM wire to another header and add either molex power or power from a non-pwm header. And now instead of 2 sets of fans I would now have 3 that I can control.
> 
> Thoughts?


You can set the CPU fan to PWM control in the BIOS, then switch it from automatic to manual control. I control my H220 this way, the pump is connected to the CPU fan header and the fans are on a System fan header, all controlled by Speedfan.


----------



## decimox

I have giga z77x ud5h

a question about Power switch LED light on the motherboard itself

when i shut down my windows, after few seconds i switch off the PSU, then i look at the ps sw led button, after few seconds it turns off, the in blink of eye it turns on again and off.

another situation, after shut down my windows, if i wait for 5 or 7 seconds, then switch off the PSU, after few seconds the pw sw led completely turns off. not turning on again like above

Is it normal ? does it happen the same to you guys


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decimox*
> 
> I have giga z77x ud5h
> 
> a question about Power switch LED light on the motherboard itself
> 
> when i shut down my windows, after few seconds i switch off the PSU, then i look at the ps sw led button, after few seconds it turns off, the in blink of eye it turns on again and off.
> 
> another situation, after shut down my windows, if i wait for 5 or 7 seconds, then switch off the PSU, after few seconds the pw sw led completely turns off. not turning on again like above
> 
> Is it normal ? does it happen the same to you guys


There must just be a bit of power left in the capacitors once you've switched the PSU off, although why that would be causing the power LED to light up after it's been turned off I don't know







I certainly wouldn't say anything is wrong with it.


----------



## fatherof3

my 5H does this also, but i have the habit of hitting the power switch after shutdown anyway, have done it with all boards(asus) just so i do get rid of any residual current.


----------



## Daniman4

There was a guy who spray painted them, so I thought hey why not. I hate the blue color anyways. Just spray painted the heatsinks on the motherboard, the system looks awesome, but I don't know if the temps are ok since I forgot to take temps from before spray painting.
Would love for some Z77X-UD5H owners to post their TMPIN0,1,2 through CPUID HW, or atleast for someone to confirm that the temps are ok at full load using Prime95:
TMPIN0 is 46 max.
TMPIN1 is 48 max.
TMPIN2 is 65 max.

Celcius of course.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daniman4*
> 
> There was a guy who spray painted them, so I thought hey why not. I hate the blue color anyways. Just spray painted the heatsinks on the motherboard, the system looks awesome, but I don't know if the temps are ok since I forgot to take temps from before spray painting.
> Would love for some Z77X-UD5H owners to post their TMPIN0,1,2 through CPUID HW, or atleast for someone to confirm that the temps are ok at full load using Prime95:
> TMPIN0 is 46 max.
> TMPIN1 is 48 max.
> TMPIN2 is 65 max.
> 
> Celcius of course.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


TMPIN0 is 42c
TMPIN1 is 43c
TMPIN2 is 50c

3570k 4.4Ghz 1.21v. 24c ambient.


----------



## Daniman4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> TMPIN0 is 42c
> TMPIN1 is 43c
> TMPIN2 is 50c
> 
> 3570k 4.4Ghz 1.21v. 24c ambient.


Much obliged.

How long did you stress test to get those temps?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daniman4*
> 
> Much obliged.
> 
> How long did you stress test to get those temps?


did a quick 15 minute blend just to get you something to compare yours with. I can run it longer if you'd like. May be worth noting that I have a 200mm side intake fan.


----------



## Daniman4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> did a quick 15 minute blend just to get you something to compare yours with. I can run it longer if you'd like. May be worth noting that I have a 200mm side intake fan.


If you could do an hour blend test that would be awesome. If not, it's good enough. Thanks.


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> You can set the CPU fan to PWM control in the BIOS, then switch it from automatic to manual control. I control my H220 this way, the pump is connected to the CPU fan header and the fans are on a System fan header, all controlled by Speedfan.


Ah so it's one mode or the other, not both?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> Ah so it's one mode or the other, not both?


It defaults to "Auto" if you want to control it with Speedfan you need to set it to PWM and manual control.


----------



## Skullwipe

TMPIN0 is 45c
TMPIN1 is 48c
TMPIN2 is 61c

1 hour blend, 26c ambient. If you're at stock voltages and frequency your temps may be a little high.


----------



## Daniman4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> TMPIN0 is 45c
> TMPIN1 is 48c
> TMPIN2 is 61c
> 
> 1 hour blend, 26c ambient. If you're at stock voltages and frequency your temps may be a little high.


I am as well overclocked to 4.5 ghz with the 3570k. Temps are pretty similar to mine, minus the fact that I don't have an intake side fan. I guess if I would have had one they would be a bit lower. That's wonderful. Thank you for your time.


----------



## redfaction95

Brothers.......really need a bit of help over here, i have already posted about with no reply,








since this is the only place where i saw ud3h users....
i have two short questions

1.. my board is ud3h rev1.1 bios f18 and i feel it alot laggy in bios over here unlike my old P8P67.....? does any body know that how to cure it?

2.. should i uninstall intel rapid storage...? imy pc boot time is way too long (only considering the time taken by windows to loadup from "windows loading" to the desktop) ...........i have freshly installed windows 7 ultimate 64bit and my hard disk is WD 500gb 6gb/s 16mb cache blue... and it worked really fine on asus p8p67........... i have already installed it in right slot of white 6gb/s....................

Reply must, i will be really thankful to u


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Brothers.......really need a bit of help over here, i have already posted about with no reply,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> since this is the only place where i saw ud3h users....
> i have two short questions
> 
> 1.. my board is ud3h rev1.1 bios f18 and i feel it alot laggy in bios over here unlike my old P8P67.....? does any body know that how to cure it?
> 
> 2.. should i uninstall intel rapid storage...? imy pc boot time is way too long (only considering the time taken by windows to loadup from "windows loading" to the desktop) ...........i have freshly installed windows 7 ultimate 64bit and my hard disk is WD 500gb 6gb/s 16mb cache blue... and it worked really fine on asus p8p67........... i have already installed it in right slot of white 6gb/s....................
> 
> Reply must, i will be really thankful to u


The mouse has felt laggy to me in every BIOS revision I've tried, so I just use my keyboard like I always have. Intel RST is for AHCI and RAID, if you're not using those features you don't need it, but it also wouldn't cause longer boot times.


----------



## Anoxy

Boy am I glad this thread exists.

GA-Z77-UD5H owner here.

Two of my system fans do not start up. I don't know what other information I can give you, but maybe somebody can help or give me a suggestion? Is my motherboard faulty? I switched the two non-working fans' spots on the mobo and they still don't spin. One of them is brand new and came with my case, and the other is from a previous build.


----------



## Geezerman

try page 51 in the manual. I can't remember if the bios has a voltage startup value..or maybe the temp is set too high for the fans to start at.

& 1st/2nd/3rd System Fan Speed Control
Allows you to determine whether to enable the system fan speed control function and adjust the fan
speed.
Normal Allows the system fans to run at different speeds according to the system temperature. You
can adjust the fan speed with EasyTune based on your system requirements. (Default)
Silent Allows the system fan to run at slow speeds.
Manual Allows you to control the system fan speed under the Slope PWM item.
Disabled Allows the system fan to run at full speeds.
&& Slope PWM
Allows you to control the system fan speed. This item is configurable only when 1st/2nd/3rd System Fan
Speed Control is set to Manual. Options are: 0.75 PWM value /oC ~ 2.50 PWM value /oC.


----------



## frag85

Went to game some today, machine went into 0x0A BSOD loops. I had played Saints Row 3 for an hour, then loaded up Borderlands 2 with a few friends and then it started to blue screen. Could not get into windows, repair or reinstall regardless of bios settings (stock, overvolt, undervolt, started with taking off the OC of [email protected], and stock up to 1.3v vcore and up to 1.2v VTT with no luck). No clue what is wrong. Any ideas? Nothing has ever overheated on the machine. VR's are always <45C, PCH < 60C, SB<45C. I spent about 8 hours after work trying to get into windows. When trying to boot into safe mode it BSOD's (0x0a) at classpnp.sys.

Its the "Cybermonday" machine in my sig.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Went to game some today, machine went into 0x0A BSOD loops. I had played Saints Row 3 for an hour, then loaded up Borderlands 2 with a few friends and then it started to blue screen. Could not get into windows, repair or reinstall regardless of bios settings (stock, overvolt, undervolt, started with taking off the OC of [email protected], and stock up to 1.3v vcore and up to 1.2v VTT with no luck). No clue what is wrong. Any ideas? Nothing has ever overheated on the machine. VR's are always <45C, PCH < 60C, SB<45C. I spent about 8 hours after work trying to get into windows. When trying to boot into safe mode it BSOD's (0x0a) at classpnp.sys.
> 
> Its the "Cybermonday" machine in my sig.


Any recent installations or updates to utilities? Have you cleared the CMOS? If you have access to a bootable CD, like Hirens, see if you can boot from that, if so run some of the boot and system repair utilities.

TDSS Killer, Malwarebytes, CCleaner, Autoruns, and BlueScreenView are all worth running. I'd run BlueScreenView first to see if you can narrow down the source of the problem. 0x0A is normally caused by a driver or a piece of malicious software.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geezerman*
> 
> try page 51 in the manual. I can't remember if the bios has a voltage startup value..or maybe the temp is set too high for the fans to start at.
> 
> & 1st/2nd/3rd System Fan Speed Control
> Allows you to determine whether to enable the system fan speed control function and adjust the fan
> speed.
> Normal Allows the system fans to run at different speeds according to the system temperature. You
> can adjust the fan speed with EasyTune based on your system requirements. (Default)
> Silent Allows the system fan to run at slow speeds.
> Manual Allows you to control the system fan speed under the Slope PWM item.
> Disabled Allows the system fan to run at full speeds.
> && Slope PWM
> Allows you to control the system fan speed. This item is configurable only when 1st/2nd/3rd System Fan
> Speed Control is set to Manual. Options are: 0.75 PWM value /oC ~ 2.50 PWM value /oC.


Thanks, but shouldn't normal settings allow for all system fans to run normally? I didn't change anything in the BIOS related to fan speeds since installing it in my rig. Three of the fans are working, but two are not. That doesn't make sense to me.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks, but shouldn't normal settings allow for all system fans to run normally? I didn't change anything in the BIOS related to fan speeds since installing it in my rig. Three of the fans are working, but two are not. That doesn't make sense to me.


Have you tried plugging the fans that you know work into the headers the non working fans are connected to?


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Any recent installations or updates to utilities? Have you cleared the CMOS? If you have access to a bootable CD, like Hirens, see if you can boot from that, if so run some of the boot and system repair utilities.
> 
> TDSS Killer, Malwarebytes, CCleaner, Autoruns, and BlueScreenView are all worth running. I'd run BlueScreenView first to see if you can narrow down the source of the problem. 0x0A is normally caused by a driver or a piece of malicious software.


Left it doing memtest last night, no errors. This morning booted up just fine (edit: looks like it BS'd when I first rebooted after memtest, didn't catch that, It must have just looped even though i disabled auto-restart on a BS).







Just played 3 1/2 hours of Arma 2 and didn't have any issues. About an hour or so recording with DXTory.

Weird....

The only change was I think a skype update that slipped passed me. I ran windows update just now as well since it has been running smooth. There was a thunderstorm yesterday so I think the power might have just been flaky even though I'm on a filtered UPS. Never lost power or had any brown outs (UPS never kicked in). Maybe my PSU is on the fritz. I dusted the case out anyways but there wasn't anything in there since running an fan in my room with a filter on it.

Anyways, here's the monitoring I always run to keep an eye on stuff.


Edit: Going through a suite of scanners now. TDSS found:
TDSS FIle System
Physical drive: \Device\Harddisk2\DR2
Suspicious object, medium risk

What is this? Could it be a mounted virtual drive I have installed for a game editor(arma/vbs related)?



And I've got a custom filter set up in the Event Viewer... But haven't used it much. Most of the BSOD's yesterday didn't get recorded even after I re-enabled dumps+pagefile. The BSOD from December (first week I had the system up) was the same 0x0a from when I was trying to find a stable OC setting and had the IMC too low. Wonder if it has degraded in the past 6 months. Its at .975 which I know is safe, but maybe the chip was faulty.



According to BlueScreenView, its ntoskrnl and nvlddmkm once. I know nvl... is video driver, but what should I be looking at with the windows kernal ones?

If anything else happens I'll start my own troubleshooting thread. Didn't mean to hijack this.


----------



## ChrisFM

Hi guys. I have a problem with my PC and I think it might be the Motherboard.

I will explain the problem shortly but first I'll give you my PC specs.

MSI Z77A-G45
Intel i5-3570
Corsair DDR3 8GB (2x4)Kit 1600MHz Vengeance
Nvidia GeForce 9800GT

So when I assembled my PC I put one RAM in DIMM2 and the other in DIMM4. This led to an infinite reboot loop. The fans and the leds were working but nothing was displayed on the screen. After doing some tests removing and inserting again the RAMs with different combinations I came to the conclusion that this infinite reboot loop is occurring when a RAM is inserted either in DIMM1 or DIMM2. My PC works fine if I connect the RAMs in DIMM3 and DIMM4 but not with the DIMM1-DIMM3, DIMM1-DIMM4, DIMM2-DIMM3, DIMM2-DIMM4 combinations.
At first I thought one of my RAMs might be corrupt but after the tests I see that both work fine and I'm starting to believe that the Motherboard has the problem.

Any ideas? This is really frustrating.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> According to BlueScreenView, its ntoskrnl and nvlddmkm once. I know nvl... is video driver, but what should I be looking at with the windows kernal ones?
> 
> If anything else happens I'll start my own troubleshooting thread. Didn't mean to hijack this.


I had a number of BSOD's on my system when I first built it, I ended up having to slightly increase the Vcore over the default setting.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisFM*
> 
> Hi guys. I have a problem with my PC and I think it might be the Motherboard.
> 
> I will explain the problem shortly but first I'll give you my PC specs.
> 
> MSI Z77A-G45
> Intel i5-3570
> Corsair DDR3 8GB (2x4)Kit 1600MHz Vengeance
> Nvidia GeForce 9800GT
> 
> So when I assembled my PC I put one RAM in DIMM2 and the other in DIMM4. This led to an infinite reboot loop. The fans and the leds were working but nothing was displayed on the screen. After doing some tests removing and inserting again the RAMs with different combinations I came to the conclusion that this infinite reboot loop is occurring when a RAM is inserted either in DIMM1 or DIMM2. My PC works fine if I connect the RAMs in DIMM3 and DIMM4 but not with the DIMM1-DIMM3, DIMM1-DIMM4, DIMM2-DIMM3, DIMM2-DIMM4 combinations.
> At first I thought one of my RAMs might be corrupt but after the tests I see that both work fine and I'm starting to believe that the Motherboard has the problem.
> 
> Any ideas? This is really frustrating.


Did you try running memtest on the sticks individually? This is also a thread for gigabyte boards so IDK if that particular ram is supported by your MSi board.


----------



## ChrisFM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Did you try running memtest on the sticks individually? This is also a thread for gigabyte boards so IDK if that particular ram is supported by your MSi board.


I did several tests and as I said the system will reboot forever if I put a stick in DIMM1 or DIMM2.
And is it even possible MSI Motherboard not to support Corsair RAMs? I mean, Corsair is a kinda popular brand, isn't it?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisFM*
> 
> I did several tests and as I said the system will reboot forever if I put a stick in DIMM1 or DIMM2.
> And is it even possible MSI Motherboard not to support Corsair RAMs? I mean, Corsair is a kinda popular brand, isn't it?


Both the motherboard and RAM manufacturer will have a compatibility list.

MSI's list can be found here: http://us.msi.com/file/test_report/TR10_2533.pdf


----------



## ChrisFM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Both the motherboard and RAM manufacturer will have a compatibility list.
> 
> MSI's list can be found here: http://us.msi.com/file/test_report/TR10_2533.pdf


Alright, I checked and they are compatible. I also found out that the problem may be some bent socket pins. Is this easy to be fixed? Because it doesn't look so...


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisFM*
> 
> Alright, I checked and they are compatible. I also found out that the problem may be some bent socket pins. Is this easy to be fixed? Because it doesn't look so...


No, bent pins is not something easy to solve, but if you can confirm that pins are bent you're kind of in that no harm no foul area. Because you've already used the board there's no way you can prove to their satisfaction that the pins were bent before you inserted the CPU, so you might as well give straightening them a shot. The only effective method I know of is to to use a small needle or tweezers and a large amount of patience and finesse.


----------



## ChrisFM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> No, bent pins is not something easy to solve, but if you can confirm that pins are bent you're kind of in that no harm no foul area. Because you've already used the board there's no way you can prove to their satisfaction that the pins were bent before you inserted the CPU, so you might as well give straightening them a shot. The only effective method I know of is to to use a small needle or tweezers and a large amount of patience and finesse.


So would you suggest contact the shop I bought the Motherboard or try fix them myself?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisFM*
> 
> So would you suggest contact the shop I bought the Motherboard or try fix them myself?


Where did you purchase it? Check their warranty/replacement policy online, if you feel you qualify call them for sure. I can almost guarantee you that MSI will want to charge you for a socket replacement.

MSI has a 3 year warranty on motherboards. Based on what I've read about motherboard RMA's I'd document everything, take pictures before you remove it from your case, take a close up of the pins. Document the packing process, and follow their instructions to the letter to prevent any chance of them rejecting the RMA. Include copies of the pictures taken, and be sure to insure the package and require a signature.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Have you tried plugging the fans that you know work into the headers the non working fans are connected to?


Yes, I just tried and they do not work in two headers on the motherboard. Looks like slots 1 and 4 do not work? Defective?


----------



## Anoxy

Maybe my AX750 isn't providing enough power for everything? I just don't get it. And I've noticed that the BIOS screen stays up for 20-30 seconds when I restart my system. When I first bought it, I could press delete/F12 or whatever else and the response would be instant; now I press a key and I have to stare at the BIOS start screen for 20 seconds before it opens the actual BIOS.

RMAing a motherboard would be hell.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Maybe my AX750 isn't providing enough power for everything? I just don't get it. And I've noticed that the BIOS screen stays up for 20-30 seconds when I restart my system. When I first bought it, I could press delete/F12 or whatever else and the response would be instant; now I press a key and I have to stare at the BIOS start screen for 20 seconds before it opens the actual BIOS.
> 
> RMAing a motherboard would be hell.


Have you switched it over to the second BIOS chip? Just toggle the switch next to the front panel connector.


----------



## Anoxy

I haven't. What will that do?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I haven't. What will that do?


Gigabyte boards have a dual BIOS, it will simply switch it to the one that isn't currently in use. If that solves the problem it will let you know that it's not the board itself, then you can switch back to the BIOS you were original using and flash it.

It's a great feature to have, if a BIOS flash ever fails for any reason you never have to worry about your board being bricked. If the BIOS I'm using is stable I always flash new releases to the secondary, so if it causes any issues I can easily switch back to a known working BIOS and settings.


----------



## Anoxy

Welp, same thing on the other BIOS.

Really disappointed in you Gigabyte


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yes, I just tried and they do not work in two headers on the motherboard. Looks like slots 1 and 4 do not work? Defective?


Are your referring to SYS_FAN1 and SYS_FAN4 fan headers? Are you using 3-pin or 4-pin fans? Are you sure those fans work? What bios version are you using? I would suggest going into bios and loading default values and reboot and try again. Do you have a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the fan header when powered up?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Maybe my AX750 isn't providing enough power for everything? I just don't get it. And I've noticed that the BIOS screen stays up for 20-30 seconds when I restart my system. When I first bought it, I could press delete/F12 or whatever else and the response would be instant; now I press a key and I have to stare at the BIOS start screen for 20 seconds before it opens the actual BIOS.
> 
> RMAing a motherboard would be hell.


You could strip your system down to just the basics (one GPU or use the integrated, boot drive, one stick of ram, keyboard, monitor, mouse) and see if that makes any difference. I don't believe you are short on power, but it could possibly be the power supply (doubtful but possible).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Welp, same thing on the other BIOS.
> 
> Really disappointed in you Gigabyte


Sounds like you may have more than one problem going on as when I hit the DEL key on startup, I get into bios in a second or two. RMA'ing a board is not the end of the world. Being stuck with a broken board out of warranty is worse


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisFM*
> 
> So would you suggest contact the shop I bought the Motherboard or try fix them myself?


may also want to post here at the msi forum and see what they have to offer.

http://forum-en.msi.com/


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Left it doing memtest last night, no errors. This morning booted up just fine (edit: looks like it BS'd when I first rebooted after memtest, didn't catch that, It must have just looped even though i disabled auto-restart on a BS).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just played 3 1/2 hours of Arma 2 and didn't have any issues. About an hour or so recording with DXTory.
> 
> Weird....
> 
> The only change was I think a skype update that slipped passed me. I ran windows update just now as well since it has been running smooth. There was a thunderstorm yesterday so I think the power might have just been flaky even though I'm on a filtered UPS. Never lost power or had any brown outs (UPS never kicked in). Maybe my PSU is on the fritz. I dusted the case out anyways but there wasn't anything in there since running an fan in my room with a filter on it.
> 
> Anyways, here's the monitoring I always run to keep an eye on stuff.
> 
> 
> Edit: Going through a suite of scanners now. TDSS found:
> TDSS FIle System
> Physical drive: \Device\Harddisk2\DR2
> Suspicious object, medium risk
> 
> What is this? Could it be a mounted virtual drive I have installed for a game editor(arma/vbs related)?
> 
> 
> 
> And I've got a custom filter set up in the Event Viewer... But haven't used it much. Most of the BSOD's yesterday didn't get recorded even after I re-enabled dumps+pagefile. The BSOD from December (first week I had the system up) was the same 0x0a from when I was trying to find a stable OC setting and had the IMC too low. Wonder if it has degraded in the past 6 months. Its at .975 which I know is safe, but maybe the chip was faulty.
> 
> 
> 
> According to BlueScreenView, its ntoskrnl and nvlddmkm once. I know nvl... is video driver, but what should I be looking at with the windows kernal ones?
> 
> If anything else happens I'll start my own troubleshooting thread. Didn't mean to hijack this.


First thing you should do is backup your data on external device.

If your bluescreening then go into bios and reset to default and restart. This is the most likely cause of 95% of bsod's that are OC'ing. Monitor or try and see if you can reproduce the conditions under which you bsod'd.

Run standard checks on the system. error logs. If you suspect it was a bad update to software, revert to system restore earlier than when the update occurred and see if you still experience bsod's.

If you rule out hardware issues, then post your scan log on a maleware forum and let them walk you through cleaning your system.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Brothers.......really need a bit of help over here, i have already posted about with no reply,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> since this is the only place where i saw ud3h users....
> i have two short questions
> 
> 1.. my board is ud3h rev1.1 bios f18 and i feel it alot laggy in bios over here unlike my old P8P67.....? does any body know that how to cure it?
> 
> 2.. should i uninstall intel rapid storage...? imy pc boot time is way too long (only considering the time taken by windows to loadup from "windows loading" to the desktop) ...........i have freshly installed windows 7 ultimate 64bit and my hard disk is WD 500gb 6gb/s 16mb cache blue... and it worked really fine on asus p8p67........... i have already installed it in right slot of white 6gb/s....................
> 
> Reply must, i will be really thankful to u


First off, it would be helpful if you could fill out your system specs so others know what you have. Just click on the "Rigbuilder" link at the top right of this page and fill in. Easy peasy.

You could try the beta bios here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

If you are trying to figure out why your boot time is so long, try enabling boot logging and take a look to see what programs are loading and what is causing delays. It really would be better than just uninstalling things that may either not be contributing to your long boot load or worse, cause other issues with system stability.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Are your referring to SYS_FAN1 and SYS_FAN4 fan headers? Are you using 3-pin or 4-pin fans? Are you sure those fans work? What bios version are you using? I would suggest going into bios and loading default values and reboot and try again. Do you have a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the fan header when powered up?
> You could strip your system down to just the basics (one GPU or use the integrated, boot drive, one stick of ram, keyboard, monitor, mouse) and see if that makes any difference. I don't believe you are short on power, but it could possibly be the power supply (doubtful but possible).
> Sounds like you may have more than one problem going on as when I hit the DEL key on startup, I get into bios in a second or two. RMA'ing a board is not the end of the world. Being stuck with a broken board out of warranty is worse


Thanks for the replies. I went ahead and placed an order for a replacement through Amazon last night. Free one-day shipping so it should be here Monday. Hopefully everything goes smoothly with this one. It's just a pain because I used this board as a Hackintosh, so re-installing OSX will be a pain. And I hate having to migrate my CPU and re-install the cooler







#firstworldproblems


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daniman4*
> 
> There was a guy who spray painted them, so I thought hey why not. I hate the blue color anyways. Just spray painted the heatsinks on the motherboard, the system looks awesome, but I don't know if the temps are ok since I forgot to take temps from before spray painting.
> Would love for some Z77X-UD5H owners to post their TMPIN0,1,2 through CPUID HW, or atleast for someone to confirm that the temps are ok at full load using Prime95:
> TMPIN0 is 46 max.
> TMPIN1 is 48 max.
> TMPIN2 is 65 max.
> 
> Celcius of course.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Probably not advisable if your planning on OC'ing but hey, wattyagonnado, you don't like blue (but bought a blue MOBO







)

This comparison is likely not going to mean alot as the same cpu in the same mobo under the same oc are going to give different temps on the cores. But I'll play along if you indicate the OC you are running. I don't think painting the heatsinks is going to show up as they are not for the cpu, but are for the voltage regulators and such which I do not think have a temp sensor in them. If they overheat I would think you are just going to have instable OC, but I'm just guessing.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks for the replies. I went ahead and placed an order for a replacement through Amazon last night. Free one-day shipping so it should be here Monday. Hopefully everything goes smoothly with this one. It's just a pain because I used this board as a Hackintosh, so re-installing OSX will be a pain. And I hate having to migrate my CPU and re-install the cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #firstworldproblems


yeah, that's kewl. let us know how you made out with the rma when you get the new board


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> So I had an idea.
> 
> In speedfan, I see 3 PWM controls with my UD3H. If I understand correctly, one is the system fans, one is the CPU fan header PWM, and the third is also the CPU fan header but it modifies the voltage, not the PWM signal, allowing control of 3 pin fans.
> 
> So I was thinking about using a 4 pin extension and seperating the PWM wire. That leaves normal 3 pin to be controlled in the voltage manner. Then add the PWM wire to another header and add either molex power or power from a non-pwm header. And now instead of 2 sets of fans I would now have 3 that I can control.
> 
> Thoughts?


A. I don't think that will work. Prove me wrong









B. Even if it did, a lot of trouble to go through. If you want better control of your fans, there are a lot of easier ways of going about it (i.e., fan controller)

C. I like cake


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilmmaf*
> 
> Hey guys and thanks for continually posting awesome information. I troll around and have picked up some useful tips. Thank you for that. The particular problem I am coming across is this.. I have a UD5H, and I just dusted off an older HTR-6130 receiver. It has toslink out, and a digital coaxial out, among other things.
> 
> Right now I have about 4 cords strung together from the RCA outputs in the receiver, to the 3.5mm input on the back of my pc. I know I must be losing some sound quality here, but I don't know what to do.
> 
> I read what was written earlier about using the proper media player, like Vlc, to be able to use the toslink out. I wasn't able to understand if there was a special way that I needed to enable this, so I haven't tried it yet. My major concern though is that about 95% of the movies I watch are on XBMC, 3% on netflix, and the remainder from downloaded torrents. I'd like to make use of the 5.1 speaker surround sound setup I poured my last paycheck into, but I cannot figure out what my next move is.
> 
> Please..please please help me figure out what I need to do in order to accomplish at least a few of my goals. Thanks!


I assume you mean you have optical and coax *in* ports on your avr. Just checked, you have 2 optical in, and 1 coax in so your good









As jayhay pointed out, you would do much better to connect your computer/mobo digital audio out (optical or coax) to the digital in on your avr as digital will sound much better than analog. You are going to flip when you hear your content using your surround speakers from your computer. Let us know how you make out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Easy, use the toslink, optical cable from your ud5h to receiver. This is a digital connection and will work much better for sound and movie playback than analog 3.5 connections, especially if you want dolbly digital or dts surround. Make the optical output the default sound output on your comp. Then watch netfilx and enjoy (no digital surround sound from netflix tho), use vlc or powerdvd for you movies you torrent or download. Powerdvd is better than vlc for HD movies. Hope this helps.


netflix does provide digital (dd+). I have not tried this using my computer accessing Netflix but I use it all the time on my bluray player/home theater. I had to upgrade my bluray player in order to get the better UI and dd+. It's sweeet.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> I never used it, but isn't it just selecting the "SPDIF interface" output as default device instead of "Speakers" in Windows?


yes. This took me a while to figure out as I switch between using my computer to output music to my avr via optical, to gaming where I am output audio to front audio jack (headset). Just right click on audio sources in the tray on bottom right, and select either speakers or digital, or something like that. It's embarrassing how long that took me to figure out


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gerbacio*
> 
> my Asrock is destroying my video cards and i was debating between this and a ASUS
> 
> this thread has scared the @@@@ out of me ! so many issues :S


This thread is very active and has been that way from the beginning. That is not to say the boards have issues more so than their competitors. There are some known issues most of which have been dealt with via bios updates. Asrock, ASUS and Gigabyte all make pretty decent boards. Just depends on what your looking for really.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys I'm just about to upgrade to a 3470. Do I need to take any precautions or do I need to reset anything before I upgrade my CPU?
> 
> Thanks.


Like Frag85 already mentioned, go into bios and reset defaults and restart, then shutdown and do your swap. Take the normal precautions when handling the cpu like grounding yourself and being careful not to bend a pin on the board. Be gentle when reseating the cpu heatsink and you should be good to go. Congrats on the Ivy cpu!


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I assume you mean you have optical and coax *in* ports on your avr. Just checked, you have 2 optical in, and 1 coax in so your good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As jayhay pointed out, you would do much better to connect your computer/mobo digital audio out (optical or coax) to the digital in on your avr as digital will sound much better than analog. You are going to flip when you hear your content using your surround speakers from your computer. Let us know how you make out.
> netflix does provide digital (dd+). I have not tried this using my computer accessing Netflix but I use it all the time on my bluray player/home theater. I had to upgrade my bluray player in order to get the better UI and dd+. It's sweeet.


Netflix has a digital audio option?? How did I not know this?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> I'm scratching my head here... When I boot up (UD5H), the boot splash screen is wonky. Not messed up, just too big for the screen (can't see anything but the center), and when I hit Del, the screen goes blank, and nothing happens (visually). It just stays that way. I just updated the Intel graphics driver, and I currently have no GPU installed. After updating, I rebooted four times, and still the same issue. I noticed before that it took a couple of reboots to correct this, after the initial build (after windows install, after GB driver disk install), I even rolled back the driver in windows, but to no avail. So, I reinstalled the latest update, and figured I'd ask here. Any suggestions?


I know this is a bit dated but I didn't see anyone respond so I'll give you my $0.02 in case your still having issues.

If you are able to get into bios, you need to enable your igpu (if you haven't) and then connect your monitor to the mobo gpu ports (i.e., dvi, etc.). If you can't even get into bios, while computer is powered down, change to the backup bios and see if you can get in with that. If neither of those works, try and get your hands on a graphics card long enough to install and use it to get into the bios. Sounds like you have a corrupt video driver.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffwx7*
> 
> Netflix has a digital audio option?? How did I not know this?


I have never used my computer to access it, but I replaced my bluray player specifically for this. Unfortunately, you must be running Windows 8 to get dd+ or using some other software on computer. See here for more info: http://www.dolby.com/us/en/consumer/technology/home-theater/dolby-digital-plus.html#


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I have never used my computer to access it, but I replaced my bluray player specifically for this. Unfortunately, you must be running Windows 8 to get dd+ or using some other software on computer. See here for more info: http://www.dolby.com/us/en/consumer/technology/home-theater/dolby-digital-plus.html#


Eh, doesn't seem like my AVR will support it anyways. Back when it was new, it was a big deal that it could pass 1080p over HDMI. I'll just stick with the Pro Logic II with Netflix for now


----------



## DR Lecter

Hi guys, I'm just after ordering a UD4H motherboard and it would be great if I could get a little bit of advice. This is going to be my first time building a PC, so as you can imagine I'm not entirely confident going into to this









The actually building phase I think I'll be fine with, well hopefully anyway, it's checking is everything working that worries me as I would not know where to start. Is there some sort of checklist that you go through once the building phase is over?

I'll be running this board with a 3530k, a 120 GB Samsung SSD, 8 GB of Kingston RAM, a Fractal Design 650W Tesla power supply and Windows 8.

If I could get some feedback to steer me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## barkeater

3530K? never heard of it. research everything and make sure of compatibility. ram to mobo. cpu to mobo research reviews for each part and see what others are in their class that performed better/worse. For example, selecting power supply should be based on your systems power demands and with future upgrades in mind. I spent much time researching power because bad power can take out mobo, drives, etc. and there will be no rma'ing those parts. something I like to do is put together a system, and then look for parts that are better/cheaper than what I picked. Let it evolve then when your ready, pull the trigger.


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR Lecter*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm just after ordering a UD4H motherboard and it would be great if I could get a little bit of advice. This is going to be my first time building a PC, so as you can imagine I'm not entirely confident going into to this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The actually building phase I think I'll be fine with, well hopefully anyway, it's checking is everything working that worries me as I would not know where to start. Is there some sort of checklist that you go through once the building phase is over?
> 
> I'll be running this board with a 3530k, a 120 GB Samsung SSD, 8 GB of Kingston RAM, a Fractal Design 650W Tesla power supply and Windows 8.
> 
> If I could get some feedback to steer me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.


I'm not seeing anything in your list that would require a 650W power supply. Are you planning on putting in a graphics card?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffwx7*
> 
> I'm not seeing anything in your list that would require a 650W power supply. Are you planning on putting in a graphics card?


Even then, 450w could run a GTX 660ti system, worst I've seen is a 165w power usage at 100% load.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hi guys, just want to know if its possible if a bad BIOS (F15r) break sticks of memory?

Can a defective ram slot brake stick of memory?

I received two defective Memory kit from Corsair in two weeks.

I am Uber mad


----------



## Anoxy

What's defective about them? Are you putting them in the right slots?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hi guys, just want to know if its possible if a bad BIOS (F15r) break sticks of memory?
> 
> Can a defective ram slot brake stick of memory?
> 
> I received two defective Memory kit from Corsair in two weeks.
> 
> I am Uber mad


That would be highly unusual from Corsair. As has already been asked, how are you determining that they are defective?

Equally as unlikely is that it is the bios if in fact that the memory is defective. Even if you set unstable settings for the memory in the bios, it would just cause system instability (i.e., bsod, etc.). Are you using the default memory settings in bios? The most reliable way to tell if you have error free memory is to run memtest on each stick, one at a time.

Are you using the board in your sys specs?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Even then, 450w could run a GTX 660ti system, worst I've seen is a 165w power usage at 100% load.


Hard to say unless you know what he/she is considering as well as what they may be going to upgrade into in the future. multi graphics cards, water loop, OC'ing cpu or gpu, etc. could all have impact on sizing power.


----------



## DR Lecter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> 3530K? never heard of it. research everything and make sure of compatibility. ram to mobo. cpu to mobo research reviews for each part and see what others are in their class that performed better/worse. For example, selecting power supply should be based on your systems power demands and with future upgrades in mind. I spent much time researching power because bad power can take out mobo, drives, etc. and there will be no rma'ing those parts. something I like to do is put together a system, and then look for parts that are better/cheaper than what I picked. Let it evolve then when your ready, pull the trigger.


3570k, not a great start







.

I think everything is compatible, at least I'm pretty sure that the CPU, RAM and motherboard are. I'm presuming the power supply is compatible with this board. How would you check?

I've kinda messed up though now that you mention it because I have ordered my power supply before really settling on what GPU I intend to buy. Just haven't made my mind up on that yet.

After you build the PC though, would it be normal practice to check is every component is working as it should? If so is there any good guides on how to go about this?


----------



## DR Lecter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Hard to say unless you know what he/she is considering as well as what they may be going to upgrade into in the future. multi graphics cards, water loop, OC'ing cpu or gpu, etc. could all have impact on sizing power.


Yeah I'll be definitely overclocking the CPU and the GPU at some point. Would I have enough power at 650 watts to power two 7870's Tahiti le or two 7950's if I were to go down that road some point?

Also the power supply I have ordered say's it can support SLI and Crossfire but the PCI power cable seems like it will only work a dual card setup when the two cards are pretty close to each other 10 mm I think. Could I buy some sort of extension cable if needed?


----------



## DR Lecter

Sorry double post.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What's defective about them? Are you putting them in the right slots?


Yes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> That would be highly unusual from Corsair. As has already been asked, how are you determining that they are defective?
> 
> Equally as unlikely is that it is the bios if in fact that the memory is defective. Even if you set unstable settings for the memory in the bios, it would just cause system instability (i.e., bsod, etc.). Are you using the default memory settings in bios? The most reliable way to tell if you have error free memory is to run memtest on each stick, one at a time.
> 
> Are you using the board in your sys specs?


I am using Memtest86+ from the DOS to test if they are defective.

(Two weeks ago) The first kit I bought is from NCIX and I couln't get it prime95 stable at 4.5 Ghz with generous voltage so I decided to run Memtest86+ and I got numerous errors during the Memtest86+.

I tried both stick seperatly and only one was giving instant errors in Memtest86+.

Now this week I received the RMA and tested the sticks with Memtest86+ and they were fine, I overclocked to 4.5Ghz and still passes Prime95 for 20 hours. I played many games this week (far cry 3).

I build this rig to sale so yesterday I wanted to make sure of maximum stability and gave aida64 stress test a shot. It passed fine.

I rebooted the rig and received a 0x1A BSOD

Code:



Code:


0x1A = Memory management error. It usually means a bad stick of Ram. Test with Memtest or whatever you prefer. Try raising your Ram voltage

I bumped the DRAM voltage and tested Memtes86+ and got numerous amount of errors.

I resetted the OC and tested at 1333mhz and no memtest86+ error (tested for 8 hours)

And now that I set back the OC at 4.5GHz I am actually testing it again this morning and no errors for 2 hours in Memtest86+.

I don't want an interminent error, maybe I did something wrong somewhere and I didn't see it. I am really not a newb when it come to this .









*Specs of this Rig*
Intel i7 3770k @ 4.5Ghz
Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 2 x 4GB
GA-Z77X-UD5H
Zotac GTX 780
Corsair TX 650
OCZ Agility
...
...
All watercooled


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR Lecter*
> 
> 3570k, not a great start
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I think everything is compatible, at least I'm pretty sure that the CPU, RAM and motherboard are. I'm presuming the power supply is compatible with this board. How would you check?
> 
> I've kinda messed up though now that you mention it because I have ordered my power supply before really settling on what GPU I intend to buy. Just haven't made my mind up on that yet.
> 
> After you build the PC though, would it be normal practice to check is every component is working as it should? If so is there any good guides on how to go about this?


you didn't do anything wrong per se, just may have limited your choices.

As for putting your computer through its paces so to speak, there are benchmarks and stress tests for that. Use them coupled with monitoring programs and you'll be able to tell quickly whether you have any instability or not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR Lecter*
> 
> Yeah I'll be definitely overclocking the CPU and the GPU at some point. Would I have enough power at 650 watts to power two 7870's Tahiti le or two 7950's if I were to go down that road some point?
> 
> Also the power supply I have ordered say's it can support SLI and Crossfire but the PCI power cable seems like it will only work a dual card setup when the two cards are pretty close to each other 10 mm I think. Could I buy some sort of extension cable if needed?


You have to research the card(s) and see what their power requirements are. For OC'ing, you will want to have additional power on hand for that. Just how much is hard to say as different components oc power requirements are different. Take it a step at a time and tally up the power you will need. Like I said, if your sticking with the power supply that you ordered then you may have to scale back things a bit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Yes.
> I am using Memtest86+ from the DOS to test if they are defective.
> 
> (Two weeks ago) The first kit I bought is from NCIX and I couln't get it prime95 stable at 4.5 Ghz with generous voltage so I decided to run Memtest86+ and I got numerous errors during the Memtest86+.
> 
> I tried both stick seperatly and only one was giving instant errors in Memtest86+.
> 
> Now this week I received the RMA and tested the sticks with Memtest86+ and they were fine, I overclocked to 4.5Ghz and still passes Prime95 for 20 hours. I played many games this week (far cry 3).
> 
> I build this rig to sale so yesterday I wanted to make sure of maximum stability and gave aida64 stress test a shot. It passed fine.
> 
> I rebooted the rig and received a 0x1A BSOD
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 0x1A = Memory management error. It usually means a bad stick of Ram. Test with Memtest or whatever you prefer. Try raising your Ram voltage
> 
> I bumped the DRAM voltage and tested Memtes86+ and got numerous amount of errors.
> 
> I resetted the OC and tested at 1333mhz and no memtest86+ error (tested for 8 hours)
> 
> And now that I set back the OC at 4.5GHz I am actually testing it again this morning and no errors for 2 hours in Memtest86+.
> 
> I don't want an interminent error, maybe I did something wrong somewhere and I didn't see it. I am really not a newb when it come to this .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Specs of this Rig*
> Intel i7 3770k @ 4.5Ghz
> Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 2 x 4GB
> GA-Z77X-UD5H
> Zotac GTX 780
> Corsair TX 650
> OCZ Agility
> ...
> ...
> All watercooled


If the new sticks check out fine using memtest, and have only caused issues under OC conditions, then that is not considered bad ram. It just doesn't like your OC and that is not corsair's problem. no equipment supplier (gpu, cpu, ram, etc ) guarantee OC results unless it has a factory oc. This is understood by all who oc.

some ram just doesn't respond well to increase in voltage. you can try loosening the timings some or post in a ram forum and see if anyone has any suggestions for you. However, to blame corsair that your ram will not oc is misplaced.


----------



## DR Lecter

Thanks for the feedback barkeater I appreciate it.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> If the new sticks check out fine using memtest, and have only caused issues under OC conditions, then that is not considered bad ram. It just doesn't like your OC and that is not corsair's problem. no equipment supplier (gpu, cpu, ram, etc ) guarantee OC results unless it has a factory oc. This is understood by all who oc.
> 
> some ram just doesn't respond well to increase in voltage. you can try loosening the timings some or post in a ram forum and see if anyone has any suggestions for you. However, to blame corsair that your ram will not oc is misplaced.


Nevermind you don't seem to understand what I am asking. I never said the memory was overclocked.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I know this is a bit dated but I didn't see anyone respond so I'll give you my $0.02 in case your still having issues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If you are able to get into bios, you need to enable your igpu (if you haven't) and then connect your monitor to the mobo gpu ports (i.e., dvi, etc.). If you can't even get into bios, while computer is powered down, change to the backup bios and see if you can get in with that. If neither of those works, try and get your hands on a graphics card long enough to install and use it to get into the bios. Sounds like you have a corrupt video driver.


Thanks for your reply! It turned that I remembered having an old GeForce 6200 laying around, and when I hooked that up - Voila! I could see again (Hallelujah!). Then, since I had been actually booting into BIOS, (and being unfamiliar with the layout of it), had been higgledy-piggeldy hitting keys in vain to get out, I buggered up the BIOS settings - but at least I could see what I was doing now. I had tried both BIOS's, so they were both messed up. I cleared, and then launched Windows, which just said "You have a problem here, and I'll be damned if I can fix it for you", after an hour or so of making a heroic attempt.







So - I had to reinstall. then I went and downloaded the BIOS version that came installed (F14), and flashed just in case there was a built in bit of corruption.

All that done, I took out my ancient GPU, and went back through integrated... Bam! No can see... so I found an old Dell LCD in the basement, hooked it up... guess what??? Yep - everything was fine. Don't get it - the other monitor worked fine at first, and still does on my old rig, but I can't hook it up to this one. Well, actually it's fine on this one provided I don't need to get into BIOS - if I just let it boot up, it's fine in windows. (Weird) Haven't had a problem since.

I really appreciate that you took the time to answer!!!!







And... a quick question - I was thinking of updating the BIOS, but I see that 14 is the latest stable?? Should I update anyway? If so what does everyone recommend? Thanks!!


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Yes.
> I am using Memtest86+ from the DOS to test if they are defective.
> 
> (Two weeks ago) The first kit I bought is from NCIX and I couln't get it prime95 stable at 4.5 Ghz with generous voltage so I decided to run Memtest86+ and I got numerous errors during the Memtest86+.
> 
> I tried both stick seperatly and only one was giving instant errors in Memtest86+.
> 
> Now this week I received the RMA and tested the sticks with Memtest86+ and they were fine, *I overclocked to 4.5Ghz and still passes Prime95 for 20 hours.* I played many games this week (far cry 3).
> 
> I build this rig to sale so yesterday I wanted to make sure of maximum stability and gave aida64 stress test a shot. It passed fine.
> 
> I rebooted the rig and received a 0x1A BSOD
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 0x1A = Memory management error. It usually means a bad stick of Ram. Test with Memtest or whatever you prefer. Try raising your Ram voltage
> 
> I bumped the DRAM voltage and tested Memtes86+ and got numerous amount of errors.
> 
> I resetted the OC and tested at 1333mhz and no memtest86+ error (tested for 8 hours)
> 
> And now that I set back the OC at 4.5GHz I am actually testing it again this morning and no errors for 2 hours in Memtest86+.
> 
> I don't want an interminent error, maybe I did something wrong somewhere and I didn't see it. I am really not a newb when it come to this .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Specs of this Rig*
> Intel i7 3770k @ 4.5Ghz
> Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 2 x 4GB
> GA-Z77X-UD5H
> Zotac GTX 780
> Corsair TX 650
> OCZ Agility
> ...
> ...
> All watercooled


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Nevermind you don't seem to understand what I am asking. I never said the memory was overclocked.


bold added by me. you never said you didn't







just trying to help bro. you said after you bumped the dram voltage and tested with memtest you got errors. I know you suspect that the bsod message indicates a memory issue, but did you try and test the memory again using memtest on stock bios settings. anyway, good luck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Thanks for your reply! It turned that I remembered having an old GeForce 6200 laying around, and when I hooked that up - Voila! I could see again (Hallelujah!). Then, since I had been actually booting into BIOS, (and being unfamiliar with the layout of it), had been higgledy-piggeldy hitting keys in vain to get out, I buggered up the BIOS settings - but at least I could see what I was doing now. I had tried both BIOS's, so they were both messed up. I cleared, and then launched Windows, which just said "You have a problem here, and I'll be damned if I can fix it for you", after an hour or so of making a heroic attempt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So - I had to reinstall. then I went and downloaded the BIOS version that came installed (F14), and flashed just in case there was a built in bit of corruption.
> 
> All that done, I took out my ancient GPU, and went back through integrated... Bam! No can see... so I found an old Dell LCD in the basement, hooked it up... guess what??? Yep - everything was fine. Don't get it - the other monitor worked fine at first, and still does on my old rig, but I can't hook it up to this one. Well, actually it's fine on this one provided I don't need to get into BIOS - if I just let it boot up, it's fine in windows. (Weird) Haven't had a problem since.
> 
> I really appreciate that you took the time to answer!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And... a quick question - I was thinking of updating the BIOS, but I see that 14 is the latest stable?? Should I update anyway? If so what does everyone recommend? Thanks!!


your welcome. glad you were able to get into bios eventually. I'm using F15r with no issues.


----------



## decimox

Hi guys

I have z77x ud5h, one issue with bios in full screen logo show

It happens occasionally. When i turn on PC after completely shut down for a while, there is no beep from the internal speaker, Screen on and it stops at logo show of Gigabyte, i wait for few seconds and then press any keys on the keyboard, it will boot to Windows.

I try to repeat the steps, shutting down and turning on again, there is a beep and it boots up normally

I think the cause lies within the keyboard i am using ( Corsair K90), my current bios is F14

Has it happened to you guys before ?


----------



## decimox

............................double post.........


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decimox*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I have z77x ud5h, one issue with bios in full screen logo show
> 
> It happens occasionally. When i turn on PC after completely shut down for a while, there is no beep from the internal speaker, Screen on and it stops at logo show of Gigabyte, i wait for few seconds and then press any keys on the keyboard, it will boot to Windows.
> 
> I try to repeat the steps, shutting down and turning on again, there is a beep and it boots up normally
> 
> I think the cause lies within the keyboard i am using ( Corsair K90), my current bios is F14
> 
> Has it happened to you guys before ?


Never had that happen (on a UD3H). Try booting up with the keyboard unplugged or do you have another one you could try? You are getting just the regular logo screen (as in no errors, press a key to do this or that)?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Never had that happen (on a UD3H). Try booting up with the keyboard unplugged or do you have another one you could try? You are getting just the regular logo screen (as in no errors, press a key to do this or that)?


It would also help to know what the post code LED is reading while it's stuck on the splash screen.


----------



## decimox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Never had that happen (on a UD3H). Try booting up with the keyboard unplugged or do you have another one you could try? You are getting just the regular logo screen (as in no errors, press a key to do this or that)?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> It would also help to know what the post code LED is reading while it's stuck on the splash screen.


Thank you
next time it happens, i will have a look at LED debug


----------



## decimox

ok it just happens, the code is b4 which means usb device hot plugin

im a bit confused about letter or number

"b" appear like in the picture so it has to be B right ? or 6 ?


----------



## barkeater

Looks like "six one" to me. checking debug codes that corresponds to nvram initialization.

F14 is kind of dated. I'd suggest flashing most recent bios posted by Gigabyte (f15q) or the beta posted on Tweaktown (F15r). See if this takes care of it.

What port do you have the keyboard plugged into? Use the Intel usb port on back as it is the least finicky.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> What port do you have the keyboard plugged into? Use the Intel usb port on back as it is the least finicky.


I have to second this, I get weird behavior if I don't plug my mouse and keyboard into the red USB 2.0 ports on the I/O panel. Never had your problem, but the BIOS doesn't recognize them when I have them in the 3.0 ports.

Post code 61 is NVRAM Initialization, 19 is Pre-memory South-Bridge initialization. Neither of which should have anything to do with your keyboard.


----------



## deepor

I read that code in the picture as B1, not 61.


----------



## decimox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Looks like "six one" to me. checking debug codes that corresponds to nvram initialization.
> 
> F14 is kind of dated. I'd suggest flashing most recent bios posted by Gigabyte (f15q) or the beta posted on Tweaktown (F15r). See if this takes care of it.
> 
> What port do you have the keyboard plugged into? Use the Intel usb port on back as it is the least finicky.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I have to second this, I get weird behavior if I don't plug my mouse and keyboard into the red USB 2.0 ports on the I/O panel. Never had your problem, but the BIOS doesn't recognize them when I have them in the 3.0 ports.
> 
> Post code 61 is NVRAM Initialization, 19 is Pre-memory South-Bridge initialization. Neither of which should have anything to do with your keyboard.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> I read that code in the picture as B1, not 61.


thank you all for help

the actual debug code is b4 ( or 64)

i just want to verify whether "b" is "B" or "6"


----------



## deepor

Just think about it... how would you write "B" with that display and still have it look different from 8 or 6? The way it's shown in that picture is the only way to do it. A number 6 would have the top segment also active.

6 looks like this:

Code:



Code:


 _
|_
|_|


----------



## Skullwipe

I don't see a anything in your picture that could be called a 4, but...B4 is a USB Device Hot Plug-In. A little googling reveals that if the keyboard or mouse you're using has onboard memory the BIOS may be trying to access it like a flash drive.

A quick and easy test would be to try plugging the devices in question into the front panel USB ports, the board won't try and boot/access a flash drive plugged into those ports.


----------



## Anoxy

What's the best way to flash the BIOS if I don't have a spare thumb drive?


----------



## barkeater

what do you mean you don't have a spare thumb drive. Just take your (any) thumb drive, put the bios on it, and restart computer then get into bios and flash. Don't tell me you don't have "a" thumb drive cause even drug stores carry them now and it can be a 256M drive ($5).

Yes, you can also use @bios w/o thumb drive but I would not use it personally. But you can choose to if you want.


----------



## Anoxy

Woah, easy big guy. My only thumb drive has OSX on it which I will need once my hackintosh is complete. And I didn't want to go waste money on another thumb drive.

Just wanted to see what my best option would be.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Woah, easy big guy. My only thumb drive has OSX on it which I will need once my hackintosh is complete. And I didn't want to go waste money on another thumb drive.
> 
> Just wanted to see what my best option would be.


You can place the BIOS file on the same drive, assuming OSX is just an image and the drive isn't formatted to boot from, just place it in the root directory of the thumb drive.

You could use the @BIOS utility, but I'm always leery of updating from windows.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> You can place the BIOS file on the same drive, assuming OSX is just an image and the drive isn't formatted to boot from, just place it in the root directory of the thumb drive.


Perfect, didn't know that. Thanks!


----------



## tehlab

Hello guys
Recently i just bought ud3h motherboard, and allready having an issues. First of all ill put my cfg:
1.z77x-ud3h mobo
2. i5 3570k
3. corsair xms3 using at 1333mhz. 2x4gb
4. XFX HD6970 2gb
5. thermaltake grand 1080W psu
So the problem is black screen when i turning on pc. The coolers are spinning, but the mouse and kb not responding. and i am getting 62 post error code, wich is according to manual "Installation of the PCH runtime services". After loads of checking rebooting clearing cmos, putting out ram, gfxs, hdd etc.... i pluged the monitor to motherboard gfxs and so far its works perfect to me.... but i want back my HD 6970 Moreover sometimes when i was turning it on with HD6970 , it was booting fine, i even installed win7, but after 1 reboot same code 62 and black screen.
Any suggestions ? Thanks!

P.S i never clocked CPU.
Bios Version is F18.


----------



## barkeater

try uninstalling and reinstalling your graphics driver for your card. do a search on how to properly uninstall the 6970's drivers so that you can do a clean install.


----------



## tehlab

@barkeater well if ill install gfxs is... its like 80% wont boot and will give me error code 62 and black screen will appear. But ill try thanks


----------



## Anoxy

Silly question I know, but where would I plug the 2-pin LED connection from an LED fan?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Silly question I know, but where would I plug the 2-pin LED connection from an LED fan?


Most LED fans plug into normal 3 or 4 pin headers, the ones with separate power leads are OEM replacements fans for cases with a button to turn the lights on and off.


----------



## GOTFrog

Im getting this weird issue, when I have a keyboard, any USB keyboard ( Logitech g110, Corsair k70, miocrosoft generic, and 2 other that I have at home) I get Power surge On Hub Port error but only if I have a keyboard connected, anyone got any idea what the problem is, doesnt matter if it's on USB 2 or USB 3 ports


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> Im getting this weird issue, when I have a keyboard, any USB keyboard ( Logitech g110, Corsair k70, miocrosoft generic, and 2 other that I have at home) I get Power surge On Hub Port error but only if I have a keyboard connected, anyone got any idea what the problem is, doesnt matter if it's on USB 2 or USB 3 ports


Control Panel - Device Manager - Universal Serial Bus controllers

Uninstall all of them, reboot and install the newest USB 3 drivers for your board. This will force windows to refresh all your USB drivers, easiest way to basically reset Windows interaction with your USB ports.


----------



## tehlab

quick update... tryed to set GFXS into another PCI-E slot and seemed to work... installed drivers... then rebooted and again black screen switched back to on board gfxs and works fine. I tryed to set PEG instead of auto in bios but it never saving to load peg first... and more over seems i was wrong its not 62 error code its b2 error... sorry... wich is "Legacy option ROM initialization"
Any suggestions ?


----------



## Skullwipe

So it seems the sticks I tested with Memtest for 24 hours individually in each slot were bad. Just had 2 BSOD's within 15 minutes, after the second one my system went into a boot loop, removed the two suspect sticks and everything is up and running. When I put them back in it refuses to even post. This is why I always get 4 sticks instead of just two.


----------



## GOTFrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Control Panel - Device Manager - Universal Serial Bus controllers
> 
> Uninstall all of them, reboot and install the newest USB 3 drivers for your board. This will force windows to refresh all your USB drivers, easiest way to basically reset Windows interaction with your USB ports.


still doing it


----------



## barkeater

If all your devices are working I would just ignore. You can disable the error message pop up to keep it from nagging you.


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> still doing it


to fix the issue your having I had to upgrade to one of the beta BIOS (make sure you disable integrated GPU first or you'll have a bad time) and then I was able to roll back to the last non beta bios, have not had an issue since. the issue seems to be related to something in the last non beta bios and the onboard USB 3 hubs not being identified right.


----------



## Anoxy

Ok I'm stumped.

I got a replacement Z77X-UD5H, and the 4th System Fan still doesn't work. And one of the other three runs at very low RPM compared to the other two.

I have a Corsair H100i (2x120mm fans), a rear 140mm fan, 2 front 140mm fans, and I want to have one more 140mm fan on the bottom as intake, but it just won't work.

Any ideas? Latest BIOS 15q


----------



## barkeater

that is weird that the SYS_Fan4 doesn't work on your replacement. It is a known issues that one of the fan headers runs at lower speed than the others(can't remember which one off the top of my head). Do a search on fan headers and you can confirm for yourself, so this part is "normal". They should all work though so unfortunately you will have to work this out with tech support.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> that is weird that the SYS_Fan4 doesn't work on your replacement. It is a known issues that one of the fan headers runs at lower speed than the others(can't remember which one off the top of my head). Do a search on fan headers and you can confirm for yourself, so this part is "normal". They should all work though so unfortunately you will have to work this out with tech support.


I have the same issue with the same fan header. It worked fine for a while then just quit working on me after I had sent the board in to GA for repair. I'm not posting to get help troubleshooting, just to establish that there _might_ be a pattern.


----------



## Gabiskool

Hey guys, I recently built a computer with this motherboard. The onboard graphics wors, but when installing my graphics card the board does not recognize it. I tried the graphics card in different PCI-e slots with everything plugged in (fans spinning led is on). I've uninstalled and installed the drivers many times but to no avail. Would that be a problem with the graphics card or Motherboard and should i RMA it.


----------



## GOTFrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> to fix the issue your having I had to upgrade to one of the beta BIOS (make sure you disable integrated GPU first or you'll have a bad time) and then I was able to roll back to the last non beta bios, have not had an issue since. the issue seems to be related to something in the last non beta bios and the onboard USB 3 hubs not being identified right.


Good will update bios and roll back, hope my trouble goes away


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I have the same issue with the same fan header. It worked fine for a while then just quit working on me after I had sent the board in to GA for repair. I'm not posting to get help troubleshooting, just to establish that there _might_ be a pattern.


This motherboard is really just pissing me off right now. I might have to exchange it.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabiskool*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently built a computer with this motherboard. The onboard graphics wors, but when installing my graphics card the board does not recognize it. I tried the graphics card in different PCI-e slots with everything plugged in (fans spinning led is on). I've uninstalled and installed the drivers many times but to no avail. Would that be a problem with the graphics card or Motherboard and should i RMA it.


post your specs and you'll receive better suggestions.


----------



## Mad Gamer

gigabyte z77x d3h


----------



## GOTFrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> to fix the issue your having I had to upgrade to one of the beta BIOS (make sure you disable integrated GPU first or you'll have a bad time) and then I was able to roll back to the last non beta bios, have not had an issue since. the issue seems to be related to something in the last non beta bios and the onboard USB 3 hubs not being identified right.


Just updated to f15q and it's still doing it

just submited a ticket to gigabytes we'll see what they say


----------



## Anoxy

Is it possible to plug a new UD5H alone into a spare PSU to make sure all of the fan headers work before I install it?

I think I'm gonna try one more replacement to see if these have just been lemons.


----------



## barkeater

I think you need to have bare minimum components before power is provided to the fan headers. cpu, ram, etc. you don't need to have it installed in case.


----------



## Nwanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> Just updated to f15q and it's still doing it
> 
> just submited a ticket to gigabytes we'll see what they say


I had the same issues,today i got my 7950 back from RMA,well another one. My sapphire one could not be fixed so they exchanged it for a powercolor 7950 v2. I spend like 3 hours this morning to try and get a signal from my card,tried all sorts off setting,finally it worked with PCIE GEN set to GEN2,on a F14 bios. The card is working. But only at x8 gen2. I have it in my x16 first slot. Tried the latest F16C(mod3) bios,same settings and didn't get any signal out. Also, what is causing the card to work only at X16,is it possible that the SATA3 Agility SSD is causing this,like a chipset thing or something. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

My specs:
3770k
z77x-u5h
pc 7950 v2
2x4gb hyperx lovo
TX750v2


----------



## GOTFrog

Alright just got an answer from Gigabyte they are telling me that the Power surge on hub-port is due to a faulty PSU, I: just wish that I had an extra psu to test out before buying a new one and ending up still having the issue. really annoying answer.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> Alright just got an answer from Gigabyte they are telling me that the Power surge on hub-port is due to a faulty PSU, I: just wish that I had an extra psu to test out before buying a new one and ending up still having the issue. really annoying answer.


Gigabyte is full of BS on that one. The power surge warning is the most common problem/hiccup with this board. Everyone just about has it. My board does, my buddies, countless on the forum. My psu is fine, my friends is fine and yours is probably too. They are just blaming a different part instead of being honest and say there is no fix. You just live with it. Most disable the notice on the taskbar so it doesn't annoy them anymore. It does not affect the performance. I'd just disable the notice and try to forget about it/save your time dealing with a RMA. My $.02.


----------



## Anoxy

What software gives that notice?


----------



## GOTFrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Gigabyte is full of BS on that one. The power surge warning is the most common problem/hiccup with this board. Everyone just about has it. My board does, my buddies, countless on the forum. My psu is fine, my friends is fine and yours is probably too. They are just blaming a different part instead of being honest and say there is no fix. You just live with it. Most disable the notice on the taskbar so it doesn't annoy them anymore. It does not affect the performance. I'd just disable the notice and try to forget about it/save your time dealing with GB ot RMA's. My $.02.


thanks didnt even think about turning off the notification, also that's what I thought just BS answer, surprises me a bit since I've always had superb service from Gigabyte, well guess it's not harmful and will live with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What software gives that notice?


Windows gives it to me, posted a screencap of it a few post back


----------



## barkeater

I posted this like two pages ago here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/5800#post_20239900


----------



## GOTFrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I posted this like two pages ago here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1239993/gigabyte-z77x-owners-discussion-information-support-thread-and-club-ud5h-ud3h-d3h-and-all/5800#post_20239900


well I missed it


----------



## Anoxy

Do I need to connect the SATA-style PCIE Auxiliary power from my PSU to this mobo? The manual says its recommended for systems with 2 or more graphics cards. I'm running 2x 7970s.

Also, Sys_fan4 still doesn't work. What the heck am I doing wrong here. I even bought a new PSU.


----------



## barkeater

I'd do it if it is recommended as you are running two cards.

Sorry to hear about the fan header. Have you contacted Gigabyte about it? SYS_FAN4 should run 100% all the time as it does not get the pwm control as do SYS_FAN1 through 3. But it should work nonetheless.


----------



## Anoxy

So all SYS_FAN headers work for you?

Nobody else has this issue? This is my second motherboard with the same problem. I sent a support e-mail to gigabyte last night through their website.


----------



## DeXel

What is your case fan? I hope you're not trying to use some Deltas lol.


----------



## blzkz

Hi guys,

I will buy a z77x-ud3h rev 1.0, but I'm interested about the changes between rev 1.0 and 1.1, do you know what gigabyte did? is it important or i will be fine with rev 1.0?

Thanks!


----------



## DeXel

Just an updated NIC.


----------



## blzkz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Just an updated NIC.


Nice! thanks!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So all SYS_FAN headers work for you?
> 
> Nobody else has this issue? This is my second motherboard with the same problem. I sent a support e-mail to gigabyte last night through their website.


Just a simple 140mm NZXT LED case fan.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Just a simple 140mm NZXT LED case fan.


Have you tested the fan on another header to see if it is the fan and not the mobo? It's strange it happens on two different boards. I personally don't run a fan on the 4th header, so can't say first hand. If I get some time later I'll plug one in and see if it spins







Hang in there.


----------



## Anoxy

Yep, it works on all the other fan headers. What also irks me is that one of my other sys fans is visibly running at like half speed...like how does that even help?

Maybe it has something to do with using an H100i, which has two fans connected via the CPU header.

I was thinking about resetting the CMOS, but idk.


----------



## Anoxy

Also, is it safe to unplug/plug-in fans while the computer is running, or do I need to keep turning it off and on?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Also, is it safe to unplug/plug-in fans while the computer is running, or do I need to keep turning it off and on?


I'd turn off the PC personally.

Jest checked it with this fan,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233037

System header 1, next to the sata ports and it fired up fine. FYI I'm running my fans on "Normal" with control "Voltage" in the bios. Hope this helps.


----------



## Anoxy

Head 4 was the one in question though


----------



## jayhay

Well, I had all four fan headers populated and they all worked. I don't know what "Header 4" is, I see headers cpu 1 & 2 and sys 1 & 2. I tried the one circled in the picture, as it was the one I thought you were referring to. Did you look into the bios settings?


----------



## Anoxy

I figured it was obvious that header 4 would mean SYS_FAN4. Which is down at the bottom next to the F_Panel.


----------



## fatherof3

ram timings.jpg 330k .jpg file
Hey folks, - got an issue with my ram I think - even though I manually set it to 10-12-12-31 in bios - cpuz constantly shows 10-13-13-36??? (in memory tab)

DRAM is 1.65 xmp is set to multiX24

I have g skill f3 trident X 19200 2400MHz http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2400c10d-8gtx cpu-z sows it as PC3- 10700 (667MHz) F3-2400C10-4TX (in speed tab)

I am overclocked to 4.7 stable, but I cannot understand why my ram as changed even though I manually set timings in bios

Any ideas?


----------



## Anoxy

Hey fatherof1, I don't have any advice for you (sorry), but since you mentioned you're overclocked, I just wanted to ask how you did it?

Do you just go to Advanced Frequency Settings and change it to the 47, or are there other settings that need to be changed?


----------



## fatherof3

Hi Anoxy - I just changed my multi to 47 and set manual voltage to 1.325 ( I think) then changed my push pulls to pwm controlled.

No other settings were changed.


----------



## frag85

Just got my 1st kit of ram back from RMA (had a bad stick). These puppies are hot off the press. Mfg'd June 2013 on the sticker.

I had bought an identical kit as a replacement with the plan on either selling the RMA replacement kit, or combining them for 32 GB. Now here is what I'm deciding on, what would you do:
Do I just sell one kit and keep 16GB.
Or do I run 32GB.

32 may seem like overkill, but I was going to run a 16-20GB ram drive and load ArmA 2 and when the arma group I play with switches over, ArmA 3. I was also going to try out Planetside 2 since that also streams. My Intel 520 SSD keeps up with both though, so that is why I was considering selling the 2nd 16GB kit. I also thought maybe I could record short clips to the RAMDisk either at a higher resolution or quality.

_Edit: I'd also like to add that only a few times have I maxed out, or come close to maxing out my current 16GB since building this system last November, so probably 95-99% of the time 16GB is plenty. I currently have Chrome open with 2 windows and 30 tabs, which is about average for me, 2-3 windows and 30-40 tabs, also with ArmA 2 loaded up and a few other things and I'm sitting at around 9.5GB of ram usage. Normally around 4-6GB usage when I don't have a game open. These are a reason behind just selling the 2nd 16GB kit since I don't *need* it._

If I sell one of the 16GB kits I was going to purchase a TrackIR 5 and ditch my Freetrack setup I've been running for the past 7 or so years. Its served me well but I'd like to give TIR a try. Or throw that into the new GPU fund.


----------



## Alex of the West

I am currently using a I5-3570K with GA-Z77X-UP4 TH board and I am starting overclocking.
The only settings i changed were:
-turned off turbo
-changed the multiplyer to x44
-changed vcore to 1.290

it hit around 85c and it seems stables now but i need to test it for a lot longer with prime 95 still. I have a few questions though. When I had vcore at 1.255 and ran prime 95, cpu-z displayed said my vcore was at 1.224. after several slight tweaks and tests my vcore is 1.290 in bios but cpu-z displays it at 1.260 during prime 95 and only now does it seem kind of stable. can anyone explain to me why during stress testing the vcore drops so much? am i overclocking this correctly? (all my changes were made in the 3d bios if that makes a difference.)


----------



## DeXel

That's called vdroop. You need to use load line calibration to make that difference lower if you want to.


----------



## Alex of the West

what is load line calibration and where can i find it to adjust it // how much would you reccomend adjusting it to


----------



## DeXel

You probably want to get familiar with this.

It's under 3D power control. Most people with fixed voltage use Turbo.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You probably want to get familiar with this.
> 
> It's under 3D power control. Most people with fixed voltage use Turbo.


Turbo is all you need, lower settings can cause instability and BSOD's under load.

All I've done to OC this board is adjust the LLC to turbo, change the multiplier and adjust the Vcore, I also increase the turbo current limits in the turbo settings to 200A and 300W. I also lowered the CPU PLL voltage to 1.65v, it dropped my temps by a few degrees C.

I gave Offset Overclocking a try, but you can't manually select the maximum voltage, and with my board it ended up using 0.06v more than required. If I tried to adjust the offset any lower my computer would BSOD when it loaded the Windows 7 log in screen.


----------



## Anoxy

Well, my computer is power-cycling once again upon boot, and I don't know what else to point my finger at other than this motherboard. It turns off/on 10-12 times when I turn it on, and sometimes it will reach the white BIOS splash screen, but it _won't_ boot. When it finally reaches the black BIOS splash screen, it _will_ boot.

I replaced my PSU, got a new GPU, got a new CPU cooler, and tried plugging my computer into its own surge protector, yet the problem persists. And on top of that, the SYS_FAN 4 header still doesn't work either.

I'm thinking maybe I should send it back to Amazon for the third time for a replacement while I still can.


----------



## DeXel

Did you try another RAM? I have older set of Ballistix which give me no problem, but there have been reports of issues with Crucial RAM on Gigabyte Z77 boards.

I don't think 3rd replacement will be any use. Maybe time to try another board.


----------



## Anoxy

I just read some reviews on Amazon and it looks like this board has given several Ivy Bridge users the same problems I'm experiencing. Maybe I'll give the GA-Z77X-UP5-TH a shot.


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Well, my computer is power-cycling once again upon boot, and I don't know what else to point my finger at other than this motherboard. It turns off/on 10-12 times when I turn it on, and sometimes it will reach the white BIOS splash screen, but it _won't_ boot. When it finally reaches the black BIOS splash screen, it _will_ boot.
> 
> I replaced my PSU, got a new GPU, got a new CPU cooler, and tried plugging my computer into its own surge protector, yet the problem persists. And on top of that, the SYS_FAN 4 header still doesn't work either.
> 
> I'm thinking maybe I should send it back to Amazon for the third time for a replacement while I still can.


*Finally* someone with the exact same problem as me. Not excited to find someone with the same problems but at least I know I'm not the only one here.

Power cycles 5-20+ times, if it shows white bios screen on the Main bios(happens to both main and backup bios) it wont boot and if its the Black bios screen it will give me the 3 options(default boot, default and reboot or Enter bios). That happens I think only when I clear the CMOS in between the power cycles. If I dont clear it, it will boot at my current bios settings after it gets "bored" power cycling.

*Anoxy* I got my UD5H 6 days ago and its been a nightmare I must say.

It usually takes me from 5 to 20+ power cycles to finally boot. And usually on my frustration I clears the CMOS and I have to re-enter my whole bios settings.

It been doing that from day 1. It was BNIB. I have tried modded 15r and 16c bios from TT. I believe they helped a bit but it just might be the fact that I just want to believe they did so can't really say.

I tried various Bios settings combinations with no avail. Overclocked or stock or just raised the VTT etc etc etc it still Power Cycles. Sometimes even if I just reboot the PC when I manage to boot.

But I think I may have find the error. I could be wrong and probably I'm but I think it has to do with my memory voltage? I think it defaults my Ram's voltages too low or something. Will investigate further.

I have the Ram in the sig and while my previous UD3H booted fine at [email protected], on my current UD5H its a nightmare to boot at 2400. Running at 2133 or 2200 no problem. But I think I got a BSOD on 2200 tho once or twice.

And above all I'm worried that from those vigorous power cycles it may damage my other components which I must are not exactly cheap coming at around $2K worth.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koniakki*
> 
> *Finally* someone with the exact same problem as me. Not excited to find someone with the same problems but at least I know I'm not the only one here.
> 
> Power cycles 5-20+ times, if it shows white bios screen on the Main bios(happens to both main and backup bios) it wont boot and if its the Black bios screen it will give me the 3 options(default boot, default and reboot or Enter bios). That happens I think only when I clear the CMOS in between the power cycles. If I dont clear it, it will boot at my current bios settings after it gets "bored" power cycling.
> 
> *Anoxy* I got my UD5H 6 days ago and its been a nightmare I must say.
> 
> It usually takes me from 5 to 20+ power cycles to finally boot. And usually on my frustration I clears the CMOS and I have to re-enter my whole bios settings.
> 
> It been doing that from day 1. It was BNIB. I have tried modded 15r and 16c bios from TT. I believe they helped a bit but it just might be the fact that I just want to believe they did so can't really say.
> 
> I tried various Bios settings combinations with no avail. Overclocked or stock or just raised the VTT etc etc etc it still Power Cycles. Sometimes even if I just reboot the PC when I manage to boot.
> 
> But I think I may have find the error. I could be wrong and probably I'm but I think it has to do with my memory voltage? I think it defaults my Ram's voltages too low or something. Will investigate further.
> 
> I have the Ram in the sig and while my previous UD3H booted fine at [email protected], on my current UD5H its a nightmare to boot at 2400. Running at 2133 or 2200 no problem. But I think I got a BSOD on 2200 tho once or twice.
> 
> And above all I'm worried that from those vigorous power cycles it may damage my other components which I must are not exactly cheap coming at around $2K worth.


Hey man, I feel your pain.

I have the UD5H with samsung green ram. Loops 3-4x at boot around a 1/4 of the time. It was even worse with crucial ballistix ram. No overclock here.

My buddy has a UD5H with ballistix and it loops at boot as well. He has a perk though, his also randomly reboots in windows without any blue screen. The random reboots happen when browsing the web, listening to music. Nothing to do with temps or load, and not overclocked.

I've tried every bios since f7, and currently are on f16c. No change. Both bios' are flashed to the same version, ssd firmware is current, windows is updated and intel/mobo drivers are current.

Honestly, I like the board for what it offers. But the looping and the ram fickleness drives me nuts. I'd swap it for a UP4 in a RMA if it was possible. But I don't think it is possible.

To me, it seems like a bios issue. Gigabytes bios' seem rushed and never complete or stable. Long waits with beta bios' and issues like these never seem to get resolved. I mean, basic non-oc stability should be goal #1. *My speculation* is GB is producing so many different model boards, with new uefi bios', with constant and frequent intel releases, that the bios engineering teams never get to really get to complete the project. They must move on to the new stuffs (haswell) regardless of where the former project stands. Just my thoughts.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koniakki*
> 
> *Finally* someone with the exact same problem as me. Not excited to find someone with the same problems but at least I know I'm not the only one here.
> 
> Power cycles 5-20+ times, if it shows white bios screen on the Main bios(happens to both main and backup bios) it wont boot and if its the Black bios screen it will give me the 3 options(default boot, default and reboot or Enter bios). That happens I think only when I clear the CMOS in between the power cycles. If I dont clear it, it will boot at my current bios settings after it gets "bored" power cycling.
> 
> *Anoxy* I got my UD5H 6 days ago and its been a nightmare I must say.
> 
> It usually takes me from 5 to 20+ power cycles to finally boot. And usually on my frustration I clears the CMOS and I have to re-enter my whole bios settings.
> 
> It been doing that from day 1. It was BNIB. I have tried modded 15r and 16c bios from TT. I believe they helped a bit but it just might be the fact that I just want to believe they did so can't really say.
> 
> I tried various Bios settings combinations with no avail. Overclocked or stock or just raised the VTT etc etc etc it still Power Cycles. Sometimes even if I just reboot the PC when I manage to boot.
> 
> But I think I may have find the error. I could be wrong and probably I'm but I think it has to do with my memory voltage? I think it defaults my Ram's voltages too low or something. Will investigate further.
> 
> I have the Ram in the sig and while my previous UD3H booted fine at [email protected], on my current UD5H its a nightmare to boot at 2400. Running at 2133 or 2200 no problem. But I think I got a BSOD on 2200 tho once or twice.
> 
> And above all I'm worried that from those vigorous power cycles it may damage my other components which I must are not exactly cheap coming at around $2K worth.


you should be setting the voltage according to the mfg specs. In your case 1.6 v. Everything else should be left a default settings or xmp profile. All other bios settings should be at Optimized Default till you achieve stability.

You also need to be prepared to run the ram at slower speed in order to achieve stability. Even though a memory is advertised at a certain speed, it is not a guarantee it will run at that speed for every board/configuration.


----------



## Anoxy

Hmm, so I wonder if it has something to do with my ram. I'm using Crucial Ballistix super low profile....

Also, Koniakki and jayhay, are either of you running hackintoshes? I am, and I was thinking that might have something to do with it, but that doesn't really make sense.

But according to this, it should be compatible...


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hmm, so I wonder if it has something to do with my ram. I'm using Crucial Ballistix super low profile....
> 
> Also, Koniakki and jayhay, are either of you running hackintoshes? I am, and I was thinking that might have something to do with it, but that doesn't really make sense.
> 
> But according to this, it should be compatible...


I don't think it has anything to do with the hackintosh. I have a hackintosh build and a ubuntu build on my machine, and all responded the same to the crucial ram. I'd grab some new ram and give it a try. I'd bet it's your problem. Good luck man.


----------



## tlbig10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hmm, so I wonder if it has something to do with my ram. I'm using Crucial Ballistix super low profile....
> 
> Also, Koniakki and jayhay, are either of you running hackintoshes? I am, and I was thinking that might have something to do with it, but that doesn't really make sense.
> 
> But according to this, it should be compatible...


I've been having the same issue as you with my Z77X-D3H which is turning the computer on, going to the white full screen logo splash screen instead of the newer black , then screen goes black and the computer hangs. Also, when it boots to the white screen logo, I can't get into bios. I'm using beta bios F18e and running a single EVGA GTX 780 SC.

What solved the issue for me (and this may be temporary), and it looks like it won't help you with your SLI setup, but moving the 780 from the top PCIe 16x slot to the second PCIe 8x slot fixed the boot hang issue. Now the motherboard functions properly. If something changes, I'll be sure and update this, but for now I'm keeping the 780 in the 8x slot.


----------



## fatherof3

I think tis board is ok, I have no problems except my mouse freezing for 10 seconds once every hour or so.

clocks are stable (g.skill ram - although I did have a problem te other day when my ram timings would not go to where I set them in bios, but strangely its working now (rolls eyes)


----------



## barkeater

your running pretty close to min power req for that graphics card and with the k version of the cpu I would think you may be in power deficit mode if OC'ing the cpu at all. This may be the problem behind your freezing mouse.


----------



## Anoxy

Who is that directed at barkeater?


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> your running pretty close to min power req for that graphics card and with the k version of the cpu I would think you may be in power deficit mode if OC'ing the cpu at all. This may be the problem behind your freezing mouse.


it done this even with stock speeds, - I put it down to a slight incompatibility between te board and mouse - I have seen a few problems regarding this board and mice, - IDK, and most cpu configurators (and a few posts on here) said the hale90 550w is more than enough to cope wit the power needed.

EDIT:
When you say power defecit mode - is this something I can change in the bios? there isn't a time that its more common - ie doing stress runs, - moreso, if im gaming it doesn't get worse or more common.

Thanks for your input.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Who is that directed at barkeater?


fatherof1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> it done this even with stock speeds, - I put it down to a slight incompatibility between te board and mouse - I have seen a few problems regarding this board and mice, - IDK, and most cpu configurators (and a few posts on here) said the hale90 550w is more than enough to cope wit the power needed.
> 
> EDIT:
> When you say power defecit mode - is this something I can change in the bios? there isn't a time that its more common - ie doing stress runs, - moreso, if im gaming it doesn't get worse or more common.
> 
> Thanks for your input.


have you tried a different mouse? what mouse are you using? you may also try plugging the mouse into different usb port, esp in the rear as the front ones can be kind of flaky.

When I said power deficit mode I just meant that maybe the power demand at times may exceed the supply. This could be checked by monitoring the 12V, 5V and 3.3V while you put the computer under heavy load (cpu and/or video) and see if the power supply is able to keep up. Your voltages should not deviate by more than 5%. I agree that it is not likely the power but can easily be eliminated as source of issue.

I know if my mouse froze on me that much it would drive me crazy. Shouldn't be too difficult to isolate. post back if you want any other suggestions or have found anything else out.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> ram timings.jpg 330k .jpg file
> Hey folks, - got an issue with my ram I think - even though I manually set it to 10-12-12-31 in bios - cpuz constantly shows 10-13-13-36??? (in memory tab)
> 
> DRAM is 1.65 xmp is set to multiX24
> 
> I have g skill f3 trident X 19200 2400MHz http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2400c10d-8gtx cpu-z sows it as PC3- 10700 (667MHz) F3-2400C10-4TX (in speed tab)
> 
> I am overclocked to 4.7 stable, but I cannot understand why my ram as changed even though I manually set timings in bios
> 
> Any ideas?


I had a problem with setting ram timings once. But it was that they would not actually change to what I set them to. Clearing the bios did not help, but after reflashing all was well.


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> I had a problem with setting ram timings once. But it was that they would not actually change to what I set them to. Clearing the bios did not help, but after reflashing all was well.


Fortunately I have not had to flash it to get it working again.

This was one of the reasons I got rid of my p8 pro - bios settings would not be retained.

I just cannot figure out why the (xmp) ram settings would not save and then all of a sudden they did - its beyond me.


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> fatherof1
> have you tried a different mouse? what mouse are you using? you may also try plugging the mouse into different usb port, esp in the rear as the front ones can be kind of flaky.
> 
> When I said power deficit mode I just meant that maybe the power demand at times may exceed the supply. This could be checked by monitoring the 12V, 5V and 3.3V while you put the computer under heavy load (cpu and/or video) and see if the power supply is able to keep up. Your voltages should not deviate by more than 5%. I agree that it is not likely the power but can easily be eliminated as source of issue.
> 
> I know if my mouse froze on me that much it would drive me crazy. Shouldn't be too difficult to isolate. post back if you want any other suggestions or have found anything else out.


Hi Bark, my apologies, I just noticed you replied again.

Its just one of them "annoying little niggles" and by the time it gets to me its over wit, - maybe not even 10 seconds, probably more like 5.

Ans yh as I say, it does it also when my rig auto downclocks itself down to 1600 wen not in use, so I suspect - as you now say - its probably not defecit related.

Its just a cheapo mouse from asda(walmart). I will try another slot in te morning(its 11pm ere just now and I am up early doors for the daughter.

Thanks for the pointers









Regards

Paul


----------



## neoprimal

This post is regarding a Gigabyte Z77x-UD3H board. I'm currently on the F18 BIOS. I prefer not to use beta BIOS'. In reference to my issue most current VIA USB 3.0 drivers are used. These are the newest on their website [4.00B - Released Apr 19, 2013].

Hey all, quick question I'm hoping someone can answer.

*TLR: I'm having issues with the VIA 4 (FOUR) USB 3.0 ports on my Z77x-UD3H board. They are extremely flakey and I'm seeking a permanent fix through either increased voltages to the right places or proper/better BIOS settings.*

Is there anything at all I can do in the BIOS to increase power or something to the blasted bleeping VIA USB 3.0 ports, or is there perhaps some setting to make the VIA USB 3.0 ports behave properly?

My PC has been working stable for about a year since I built it. I have had these issues before, when initially setting the system up last year during about the first month or so of ownership but I alleviated the problem by moving all USB 2.0 devices to the USB 2.0 ports (which are on a 4 port header plugged addon bracket) and on the case.

I decided to get a USB 3.0 hub and external exclosure for a drive I had sitting down and now unless I plug things in an extremely specific way, the USB 3.0 ports below the PS/2 connection will drop completely. I basically have to leave 1 of the 4 VIA USB 3.0 ports on the back free or else I'll see dropouts. I just now received my Fractal Design R4 case (which means I'll now be utilizing the on board USB 3.0 internal header which I suspect is VIA, but I'm not sure) and I'm worried that whenever I use the USB 3.0 ports on the case it will cause system instability but it's one of the reasons I went ahead and decided to upgrade to a new case.

The devices I use on USB 3.0 so far (which have been safe):

2x Seagate Goflex Desktop drives (1GB and 2GB)
G15 plugged into it as well

To fix my current predicament, I use the Intel USB 3.0 ports for the hub now and plug the external into that. Not an elegant fix.

When I add the hub (Anker USB 3.0 4 port + 1 charging hub), it flips out the VIA ports and I see dropouts.
When I add 1 more hard drive to the VIA USB 3.0 ports, I see dropouts.

Any suggestions? Can I get someone with the board to maybe run some tests to see if theirs flips as well?

The board is a Gigabyte Z77x-UD3H v. 1.0. All I'd need someone to do is either plug a usb 3.0 hub and 2 usb drives into the VIA USB 3.0 ports on the back or arrive at some combination of 3 or better yet, 4 USB 3.0 devices on the VIA USB 3.0 ports on the back. The VIA ports if anyone is curious are the 4 that populate the board other than the 2 under the LAN port, which are Intel USB 3.0.

Help please! and Thanks.


----------



## Anoxy

I don't understand the point of one SYS_FAN running at lower speeds. Is there any way to change this? What's the point of a case fan if I can't even run it at full speed...


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> This post is regarding a Gigabyte Z77x-UD3H board. I'm currently on the F18 BIOS. I prefer not to use beta BIOS'. In reference to my issue most current VIA USB 3.0 drivers are used. These are the newest on their website [4.00B - Released Apr 19, 2013].
> 
> Hey all, quick question I'm hoping someone can answer.
> 
> *TLR: I'm having issues with the VIA 4 (FOUR) USB 3.0 ports on my Z77x-UD3H board. They are extremely flakey and I'm seeking a permanent fix through either increased voltages to the right places or proper/better BIOS settings.*
> 
> Is there anything at all I can do in the BIOS to increase power or something to the blasted bleeping VIA USB 3.0 ports, or is there perhaps some setting to make the VIA USB 3.0 ports behave properly?
> 
> My PC has been working stable for about a year since I built it. I have had these issues before, when initially setting the system up last year during about the first month or so of ownership but I alleviated the problem by moving all USB 2.0 devices to the USB 2.0 ports (which are on a 4 port header plugged addon bracket) and on the case.
> 
> I decided to get a USB 3.0 hub and external exclosure for a drive I had sitting down and now unless I plug things in an extremely specific way, the USB 3.0 ports below the PS/2 connection will drop completely. I basically have to leave 1 of the 4 VIA USB 3.0 ports on the back free or else I'll see dropouts. I just now received my Fractal Design R4 case (which means I'll now be utilizing the on board USB 3.0 internal header which I suspect is VIA, but I'm not sure) and I'm worried that whenever I use the USB 3.0 ports on the case it will cause system instability but it's one of the reasons I went ahead and decided to upgrade to a new case.
> 
> The devices I use on USB 3.0 so far (which have been safe):
> 
> 2x Seagate Goflex Desktop drives (1GB and 2GB)
> G15 plugged into it as well
> 
> To fix my current predicament, I use the Intel USB 3.0 ports for the hub now and plug the external into that. Not an elegant fix.
> 
> When I add the hub (Anker USB 3.0 4 port + 1 charging hub), it flips out the VIA ports and I see dropouts.
> When I add 1 more hard drive to the VIA USB 3.0 ports, I see dropouts.
> 
> Any suggestions? Can I get someone with the board to maybe run some tests to see if theirs flips as well?
> 
> The board is a Gigabyte Z77x-UD3H v. 1.0. All I'd need someone to do is either plug a usb 3.0 hub and 2 usb drives into the VIA USB 3.0 ports on the back or arrive at some combination of 3 or better yet, 4 USB 3.0 devices on the VIA USB 3.0 ports on the back. The VIA ports if anyone is curious are the 4 that populate the board other than the 2 under the LAN port, which are Intel USB 3.0.
> 
> Help please! and Thanks.


welcome to the club of ud3h usb issues

you are not alone my friend

i tested every bios, driver, tweak

via usb + intel usb are a mess on this boards, they don´t get enough power or something, you have to find the right combination of good and bad ports and stick to it


----------



## neoprimal

I completely forgot that I had a NEC (EVGA) USB 3.0 card in my HTPC. I never, ever use it and I may be switching an Android HTPC solution soon anyway so I've moved it to my main machine and now all is well in the world again.

Does it bother me that I can't fill every USB 3.0 port on the board? Absolutely. It sucks that this happens, though I'm very glad to hear that it's not just me







(misery really loves company!). GB should probably add a little note in the manual or on the website saying the VIA USB 3.0 ports aren't meant to be laden with external hard drives









I don't have any issue with the Intel ones at all, I used to because it would run my USB 3.0 stuff at USB 2.0 speeds but I switched the setting from auto/smart auto to Enabled and now it doesn't give me any problems.

Thanks Six.


----------



## deNordic

I got a Z77X-UD5H and accidentally bend some of its sockets pins. Is there any way to replace my socket or something? I communicated with Gigabyte support and still waiting. I know i have to pay for it but i don't wanna throw my UD5H away


----------



## dougb62




----------



## dbrisc

Got a z77x-ud4h coming and got a really good deal on it! Can't wait for it to get here! Is the blue strip (on top of the vrm heatsinks) on the ud4h anodized or something? Or is it just glued on or something? I'm just wondering if I can changed the color of it at all.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deNordic*
> 
> I got a Z77X-UD5H and accidentally bend some of its sockets pins. Is there any way to replace my socket or something? I communicated with Gigabyte support and still waiting. I know i have to pay for it but i don't wanna throw my UD5H away


Some have been successful at straightening a bent pin(s) with tweezers. I know of no way to replace just the socket.


----------



## sgtjeep

deNordic,
Bent pins on this mobo can be fixed or repaired by Gigabyte servicenter/warranty people. If you are so inclined and proficient, you might be able to do the deed yourself. not recommended . Try this search on bing ( repair motherboard cpu pins ) as a guide. Good luck.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Tthe latest modded bios for the Z77X UD5H (F16c Mod5) with Microcode updated IB 19 SB 29, I am using it right now on my Z77X-UD5H Rev 1.1 and it works like a charm









Bios: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48085-gigabyte-modified-bios-138.html
(Scroll down that page)

changelog:
Intel Legacy RAID for SATA - v12.7.0.1936
Intel UEFI RAID SataDriver - v12.7.0.1936
ME Firmware 8.1.30.1350
Atheros PCIE Ethernet Controller v2.0.6.6
Intel PCI Accelerated SVGA BIOS 2158 PC 14.34
Intel Boot Agent GE v1.5.35 PXE 2.1 Build 092
Marvell 88SE91xx Adapter - ROM Version 1.0.1.0025
Sandy (06A7) CPU-MicroCode Rev.29
Ivy E1(06A9) CPU-MicroCode Rev.19


----------



## Anoxy

What does it do?


----------



## sixor

some people wrote on tweaktown forums about those modded bios, they said those microcodes has bug fixes,

i am using the modded bios good so far


----------



## bum944

I just built my first PC which was quite exciting until I started it up. All the fans worked and no smoke! But the screen showed the "BIOS has been reset - please decide how to continue" message and now I'm lost what to do. It's not what choice to make that is the problem. My mouse and keyboard don't work to select and enter one of the choices. It's like it hasn't booted up far enough to recognize the mouse and keyboard. Any help for a newbie out there?


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bum944*
> 
> I just built my first PC which was quite exciting until I started it up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> All the fans worked and no smoke! But the screen showed the "BIOS has been reset - please decide how to continue" message and now I'm lost what to do. It's not what choice to make that is the problem. My mouse and keyboard don't work to select and enter one of the choices. It's like it hasn't booted up far enough to recognize the mouse and keyboard. Any help for a newbie out there?


Are you using a wireless keyboard and mouse? If so, try a wired keyboard.


----------



## bum944

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Are you using a wireless keyboard and mouse? If so, try a wired keyboard.


I'm already using a wired mouse and keyboard.


----------



## dougb62

I'd wait and see if anyone else comes up with anything first. If not, I'd try clearing BIOS. Turn off, unplug, short out BIOS/CMOS pins (use jumper if you have one). Sometimes 10 - 30 sec. works, but I personally have to wait more than 10 minutes for this to work.

Afterthought: are you plugging in to the rear USB's with your KB? Also USB 2's?
Which Mobo?

Again - I'd wait a bit, somebody may have a better suggestion.


----------



## Mort

Greetings fellow OCN Gigabyters!

I just finished assembling my first rig, it POSTed and is seemingly good to go. I'm on to updating the firmware on my SSD, installing Win 7 Pro, trying not to lose my mind figuring out the optimal drivers to install and the correct sequence for doing so, then updating Win 7(?).

A couple of questions before I bite the bullet.

Should I be clearing CMOS at any point during the above sequence?

Aside from the standard instructions on OCZ's site, is there anything else I should do in the BIOS prior to updating the SSD firmware that is specific to the UD5H rev1.1?

Should I tweak anything in the BIOS after flashing the firmware, but before installing the OS?

Should I install any drivers (RST etc.) using F6 during the OS install? I've seen conflicting opinions on this in various places.

Once the OS is sorted, should I, optimize using Sean's guide, install drivers, or update Windows next? 1-2-3?

Is this sequence the current prevailing wisdom?

1. Windows 7 Installation (Pre-installed Intel Raid Drivers)
2. Intel Management Engine Interface
3. Intel INF Installation
4. Intel Rapid Storage Technology
5. Intel VGA Driver
5. Marvell Sata controller
6. Marvel Storage Utility (I don't think this one is necessary)
7. Intel LAN Driver
8. Atheros LAN Driver
9. Intel USB 3.0 Driver
10. Wireless Drivers
11. Nvidia Drivers (270.?? WQHL)

I have Stasio's archive at Tweaktown bookmarked along with the Intel Download Center and this OCUK thread, is there anywhere else that would be prudent to explore?

Basically, I'm hoping a few of you kind souls can spare the time to take me gently by the hands and lead me down the correct path like a kid who took the short bus to school. I've been using a P4 powered laptop for the past decade, decided it was time to spend a decent chunk of change on a long overdue upgrade, and I would really like not to screw the pooch right out of the gate.

My thanks to the people who make this site a great resource and much obliged for allowing me to intrude on your existences.


----------



## asus3571

:thumb:THIS IS A VERY NICE BOARD MY DAD HAS NONE THATS BEEN RUNNER A 2700K DAILY @ 4.5 WITH DOM GT'S 2000MHZ. ONLY RUN At 1866MHZ BUT FASTER THAN FAST I INHERIT IT TOMORROW SHOOTING FOR 5GHZ ON AN H220.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mort*
> 
> Greetings fellow OCN Gigabyters!
> 
> I just finished assembling my first rig, it POSTed and is seemingly good to go. I'm on to updating the firmware on my SSD, installing Win 7 Pro, trying not to lose my mind figuring out the optimal drivers to install and the correct sequence for doing so, then updating Win 7(?).
> 
> A couple of questions before I bite the bullet.
> 
> Should I be clearing CMOS at any point during the above sequence?
> 
> Aside from the standard instructions on OCZ's site, is there anything else I should do in the BIOS prior to updating the SSD firmware that is specific to the UD5H rev1.1?
> 
> Should I tweak anything in the BIOS after flashing the firmware, but before installing the OS?
> 
> Should I install any drivers (RST etc.) using F6 during the OS install? I've seen conflicting opinions on this in various places.
> 
> Once the OS is sorted, should I, optimize using Sean's guide, install drivers, or update Windows next? 1-2-3?
> 
> Is this sequence the current prevailing wisdom?
> 
> 1. Windows 7 Installation (Pre-installed Intel Raid Drivers)
> 2. Intel Management Engine Interface
> 3. Intel INF Installation
> 4. Intel Rapid Storage Technology
> 5. Intel VGA Driver
> 5. Marvell Sata controller
> 6. Marvel Storage Utility (I don't think this one is necessary)
> 7. Intel LAN Driver
> 8. Atheros LAN Driver
> 9. Intel USB 3.0 Driver
> 10. Wireless Drivers
> 11. Nvidia Drivers (270.?? WQHL)
> 
> I have Stasio's archive at Tweaktown bookmarked along with the Intel Download Center and this OCUK thread, is there anywhere else that would be prudent to explore?
> 
> Basically, I'm hoping a few of you kind souls can spare the time to take me gently by the hands and lead me down the correct path like a kid who took the short bus to school. I've been using a P4 powered laptop for the past decade, decided it was time to spend a decent chunk of change on a long overdue upgrade, and I would really like not to screw the pooch right out of the gate.
> 
> My thanks to the people who make this site a great resource and much obliged for allowing me to intrude on your existences.


Don't install atheros unless you plan on using 2nd lan

Don't install marvel unless you absolutely need those extra sata 3 ports

Won't need to do CMOS reset

If possible, update ssd firmware on another computer before using in new build

Enjoy


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Don't install atheros unless you plan on using 2nd lan


What's the reason here? I mean, if you're not going to use them, then why bother... but are there negative consequences? I'm using neither onboard, but installed them anyways, just because I didn't really think about it. I have both onboards disabled in BIOS currently. Should I uninstall the drivers until I need them?
Quote:


> Don't install marvel unless you absolutely need those extra sata 3 ports


Again - same as above - don't need the extras currently - should I uninstall? Feel like I should have checked on these things a month ago, but it's never too late? Right?


----------



## Branjo

Hey all, just need some quick advice.

For the life of me I cannot get the IGFX enabled on my 3570K and Z77X D3H.

What I have tried thus far,

Enabled the IGFX in BIOS, set Initial First Display to PEG, connected a 2nd monitor to the motherboard VGA port, then the DVI port, the result was a constant boot cycle after the gigabyte logo for both ports.
Enabled the IGFX in BIOS, set Initial First Display to IGFX, connected only 1 monitor to the motherboard VGA port and DVI port, same result on each port, boot cycle after BIOS logo.
Tried altering the shared memory right up until 1024Mb, no go. Tried this all at stock settings and tried it all at overclocked settings, still no go.

I have the Intel drivers but as I cannot get a clean boot to Win 7 with the IGFX enabled, the driver reports back that the system doesn't meet the necessary requirements.
Should I remove the G/Card completely or is something I am just not seeing?

Cheers.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> What's the reason here? I mean, if you're not going to use them, then why bother... but are there negative consequences? I'm using neither onboard, but installed them anyways, just because I didn't really think about it. I have both onboards disabled in BIOS currently. Should I uninstall the drivers until I need them?
> Again - same as above - don't need the extras currently - should I uninstall? Feel like I should have checked on these things a month ago, but it's never too late? Right?


No biggie if you did. I did too, but if I knew then what I know now I would not have as I have no intention on using those devices.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branjo*
> 
> Hey all, just need some quick advice.
> 
> For the life of me I cannot get the IGFX enabled on my 3570K and Z77X D3H.
> 
> What I have tried thus far,
> 
> Enabled the IGFX in BIOS, set Initial First Display to PEG, connected a 2nd monitor to the motherboard VGA port, then the DVI port, the result was a constant boot cycle after the gigabyte logo for both ports.
> Enabled the IGFX in BIOS, set Initial First Display to IGFX, connected only 1 monitor to the motherboard VGA port and DVI port, same result on each port, boot cycle after BIOS logo.
> Tried altering the shared memory right up until 1024Mb, no go. Tried this all at stock settings and tried it all at overclocked settings, still no go.
> 
> I have the Intel drivers but as I cannot get a clean boot to Win 7 with the IGFX enabled, the driver reports back that the system doesn't meet the necessary requirements.
> Should I remove the G/Card completely or is something I am just not seeing?
> 
> Cheers.


What happens if you just connect one display to the igpu port with the igpu enabled in bios? I assume you have installed the intel igpu driver, correct.


----------



## Mort

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mort*
> 
> Greetings fellow OCN Gigabyters!
> 
> I just finished assembling my first rig, it POSTed and is seemingly good to go. I'm on to updating the firmware on my SSD, installing Win 7 Pro, trying not to lose my mind figuring out the optimal drivers to install and the correct sequence for doing so, then updating Win 7(?).
> 
> A couple of questions before I bite the bullet.
> 
> Should I be clearing CMOS at any point during the above sequence?
> 
> Aside from the standard instructions on OCZ's site, is there anything else I should do in the BIOS prior to updating the SSD firmware that is specific to the UD5H rev1.1?
> 
> Should I tweak anything in the BIOS after flashing the firmware, but before installing the OS?
> 
> Should I install any drivers (RST etc.) using F6 during the OS install? I've seen conflicting opinions on this in various places.
> 
> Once the OS is sorted, should I, optimize using Sean's guide, install drivers, or update Windows next? 1-2-3?
> 
> Is this sequence the current prevailing wisdom?
> 
> 1. Windows 7 Installation (Pre-installed Intel Raid Drivers)
> 2. Intel Management Engine Interface
> 3. Intel INF Installation
> 4. Intel Rapid Storage Technology
> 5. Intel VGA Driver
> 5. Marvell Sata controller
> 6. Marvel Storage Utility (I don't think this one is necessary)
> 7. Intel LAN Driver
> 8. Atheros LAN Driver
> 9. Intel USB 3.0 Driver
> 10. Wireless Drivers
> 11. Nvidia Drivers (270.?? WQHL)
> 
> I have Stasio's archive at Tweaktown bookmarked along with the Intel Download Center and this OCUK thread, is there anywhere else that would be prudent to explore?
> 
> Basically, I'm hoping a few of you kind souls can spare the time to take me gently by the hands and lead me down the correct path like a kid who took the short bus to school. I've been using a P4 powered laptop for the past decade, decided it was time to spend a decent chunk of change on a long overdue upgrade, and I would really like not to screw the pooch right out of the gate.
> 
> My thanks to the people who make this site a great resource and much obliged for allowing me to intrude on your existences.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Don't install atheros unless you plan on using 2nd lan
> 
> Don't install marvel unless you absolutely need those extra sata 3 ports
> 
> Won't need to do CMOS reset
> 
> If possible, update ssd firmware on another computer before using in new build
> 
> Enjoy


Thanks for the reply!

I've posted the same thing in 3 other forums on 3 others sites and not a single bloody response till yours. Was starting to feel like the ugly girl at the dance.

+1 rep just for being gracious.

Someone, anyone, please, weigh in on the remaining issues.


----------



## Branjo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> What happens if you just connect one display to the igpu port with the igpu enabled in bios? I assume you have installed the intel igpu driver, correct.


Thanks for replying, ok so I got the IGPU working when I removed my 6870, messed with the Display boot option set to UFEI first (I think), installed the Intel driver, then popped the 6870 back in, but same deal, still wouldn't boot with IGFX enabled.

I will reboot now with just the one monitor connected to the IGPU and the 6870 still connected and get right back to you with the result.


----------



## Branjo

Nope, same deal, will not boot either way with the IGPU enabled. I'm stumped to say the least.


----------



## barkeater

I don't believe I ever changed the Init Display First setting from its default setting when I wanted to utilize the igpu. I think I just changed the Internal Graphics to enabled, and then plugged the monitor into the mobo graphics port. If you haven't already, you may want to try and set the Init Display First setting back to Auto, and enable the Internal Graphics with just one monitor connected and see if you can get that to work.

You know you typically can run two monitors off of most current discrete graphics cards, and I believe you can even run two monitors off of the igpu as well. I don't have two monitors so I don't think I am going to be able to help you out much more than what I have suggested.


----------



## Branjo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> I don't believe I ever changed the Init Display First setting from its default setting when I wanted to utilize the igpu. I think I just changed the Internal Graphics to enabled, and then plugged the monitor into the mobo graphics port. If you haven't already, you may want to try and set the Init Display First setting back to Auto, and enable the Internal Graphics with just one monitor connected and see if you can get that to work.
> 
> You know you typically can run two monitors off of most current discrete graphics cards, and I believe you can even run two monitors off of the igpu as well. I don't have two monitors so I don't think I am going to be able to help you out much more than what I have suggested.


Yeah I've tried basically everything I can think of, the weird thing is I have tested both the IGPU (with 6870 removed) and the 6870 and they are functioning as expected, just can't get the damn things running together. There is zero stability problems with the board, I am not running a crazy OC either, just 4Ghz and I have tried all this at stock speed and BIOS optimized defaults. My two monitors have been used for an extended desktop for a while now. I have a 22' LCD with DVI and an 18" LCD with VGA and they are fine if I connect them to the HD6870, they are also fine if I connect them to the DVI and VGA ports on the motherboard.

Its cool though barkeater, I really appreciate you taking the time to help, its probably something very simple in the BIOS that I am overlooking that's causing the conflict.


----------



## deepor

Branjo: I have that Z77X-D3H board, i5-3570k, gtx 560ti. I have integrated graphics enabled, but I don't actually use it, a single monitor is connected to the 560ti. This seems to work, both devices show up in the device manager, Intel HD 4000 and the 560ti. It's Windows 8 and BIOS version is F17 from TweakTown forums. I've set it up in the BIOS exactly like you describe, iGPU enabled and PEG as first.


----------



## dbrisc

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Does anyone know if the circled areas with the blue strip are removable? Or if I can paint over that blue strip at all? Or has anyone done it at all? I'm assuming I can paint over it at the very least just don't want it to show through. Thanks for any help.


----------



## [CyGnus]

dbrisc that is removable those are the heat sinks of the board, if you flip the board you will see some push pins for those heat sinks


----------



## Branjo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Branjo: I have that Z77X-D3H board, i5-3570k, gtx 560ti. I have integrated graphics enabled, but I don't actually use it, a single monitor is connected to the 560ti. This seems to work, both devices show up in the device manager, Intel HD 4000 and the 560ti. It's Windows 8 and BIOS version is F17 from TweakTown forums. I've set it up in the BIOS exactly like you describe, iGPU enabled and PEG as first.


I was able to install the HD4000 driver when the G/Card was removed, I done a few benchmarks with it just to test it and it was pretty decent, but with the card back in, its not showing up in my device manager at all. So whats the deal with the F17 BIOS, any improvements over the F16?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branjo*
> 
> I was able to install the HD4000 driver when the G/Card was removed, I done a few benchmarks with it just to test it and it was pretty decent, but with the card back in, its not showing up in my device manager at all. So whats the deal with the F17 BIOS, any improvements over the F16?


No idea about anything special about F17's quality... It's just what I put on after I tried a bunch of F18 beta versions as I thought the missing letter after the 17 meant it's "stable".

The HD4000 device shows up for me after I enable it in the BIOS. On its default "Auto" setting, it disappears if the card is installed. It has to be set to "Enabled". There's a second setting about what device is seen as the "first", and I've set that to the pci-e graphics.

Just to make sure it's actually working, I pulled the monitor's dvi cable out of the graphics card and put it into the motherboard's back panel just now. I'm typing this on the HD4000's graphics. It seems to work fine, I did not restart or anything.


----------



## Branjo

Without even having to restart? There must be something up with my board or CPU, maybe even the G/Card. I was thinking of cleaning out the ATI drivers but then the problem starts before the OS has even booted, so I don't know that would do. Its just something I am probably going to have to live with as I think I have covered all the basses. Just out of curiosity, what slot do you have your G/card in? I have mine in the one closest to the CPU (top) I figured that one was the normal option.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branjo*
> 
> Without even having to restart? There must be something up with my board or CPU, maybe even the G/Card. I was thinking of cleaning out the ATI drivers but then the problem starts before the OS has even booted, so I don't know that would do. Its just something I am probably going to have to live with as I think I have covered all the basses. Just out of curiosity, what slot do you have your G/card in? I have mine in the one closest to the CPU (top) I figured that one was the normal option.


I use the same slot, the one that's closest to the CPU.

Some stuff that might be important:

The board is GA-Z77X-D3H Rev. 1.1.
I tried several UEFI/BIOS F18 betas and F17, no idea about older versions.
The slot is running as pci-e 2.0 x16 as the GTX 560 Ti is older and not pci-e 3.0.
It's Windows 8 and Windows Update is on automatic and everything is updated.
The Intel HD graphics driver's version is 9.17.10.2932.


----------



## dbrisc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> dbrisc that is removable those are the heat sinks of the board, if you flip the board you will see some push pins for those heat sinks


That's what I assumed just wanted to make sure. Is the blue strip and white gigabyte on the sinks anodized on? Painted on? Hopefully my board will be here today after waiting more than a week on it...


----------



## Branjo

Yup mine is a 1.1 too, I updated windows too, which is always a good idea but the issue still remains. I also dropped the GPU to the middle slot and a "Primary PEG" option popped up int he BIOS for PEG11 PEG12 PEG60 so I am assuming they are in order from the CPU down. No difference for my problem though, I am starting to think its the 6870. I have read about a few people that have flashed their ATI cards with a different BIOS and causing the exact issue I am having. Although I haven't flashed my card (and don't intend to either) I think it might be a conflict with the XFX BIOS on the card. So it looks like I am going to have to live without VirtuMVP, not a great loss I just wanted to ability to give it a go.

I really appreciate your help though.


----------



## barkeater

your not missing much w/o virtumvp as it provides no real world performance gain. Only bench numbers affected.


----------



## Branjo

Yeah that seems to be the consensus from what I read too. Its definitely a mobo problem though, as I just earlier took the 8800GTS out of my sons rig and tried it in mine to the exact same result. Been on to Gigabyte support and they don't have a clue either, I am not going to return the board as there is not a thing wrong with any other aspect AFAIK. Just one of those things I guess.


----------



## DrBlue

hello im new here and trying to find my way around hope this is the right plays. i have looked at several posts about OCing and cant find much in the way of specifics, i understand that there is no one way to overclock but but a bit of guidance would be helpful. i own the GB Z77X UD5H

thanks


----------



## Anoxy

There are several videos on youtube about how to overclock with this board. I recently watched one for overclocking a 3570k on a UD5H.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrBlue*
> 
> hello im new here and trying to find my way around hope this is the right plays. i have looked at several posts about OCing and cant find much in the way of specifics, i understand that there is no one way to overclock but but a bit of guidance would be helpful. i own the GB Z77X UD5H
> 
> thanks


http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## Branjo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> your not missing much w/o virtumvp as it provides no real world performance gain. Only bench numbers affected.


Ok got it working, finally!

I had tried everything except a fresh install of windows, so in a nutshell that's what it took. I also pulled all the hard drives except the one where windows was and formatted and just reinstalled as normal. I think I left the other drives still connected the last time I installed windows, so maybe something related to the boot was on another drive and causing the problem.

Anyhoo, now I have a monitor on the GPU and another on the IGPU yay! basically no real difference to me except I can leave the IGPU monitor on and get no impact on the GPU monitor playing a game or something. I installed the VirtuMVP but haven't had time to test it with any other game apart from BF3 which it doesn't work correctly on, (oh the irony).

Gonna mess about with some encoding and see it there is anything to write home about. Anyway guys seriously, thanks for taking the time to help, hope I can return the favor.


----------



## barkeater

glad to hear you got it working


----------



## goodman1280

excuse me can anybody help? (pardon my english if there's incorrect use of words because its not my primary language)

RIG
CPU=i5 2500k @ 4.0
Motherboard=Gigabyte Z77-UD3H
RAM=Patriot Viper @ 2k something mhz(cmiiw) 8gb
GPU=HIS radeon 7970 reference
PSU=seasonic 650w bronze 80+
SSD: Kingston HyperX 120GB + WDC 1 TB
CASE=LIAN LI aluminum case
Optical drive and so on

so here's the problem guys;
my pc usually stay up almost 24/7 but there are times for hours off on weekends. but everytime i shut down and power up my PC start to go ON (2 sec) and OFF multiple times(i could see the case fan and lights go on and off).
until finally on my monitor screen comes :UEFI DUAL BIOS and all blue and black color with only those word on the upper middle.
then after couple of time on and off again it finally get to windows start up and voila no problem what so ever during my PC uptime. As long as i dont shutdown and power up there are NO accidental power off or any error or blue screen or anything! NONE.
the issue just when im about to power up then my PC turn on for couple of seconds and then shut down by itself(this happen multiple times until those "UEFI DUAL BIOS") and finally it get to windows.
im wondering what could cause this? is this a problem that need fixing? its annoying yes,but its harmless in my experience while using my PC

ps:while my PC go ON and OFF during those events there are no "BEEP" sound occured!! u know those "BEEP" sound when u start up ur PC

pss:i OC my i5 2500k to 4.0 with auto setting from motherboard (i just change the multiplier to 40)


----------



## Branjo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodman1280*
> 
> excuse me can anybody help? (pardon my english if there's incorrect use of words because its not my primary language)
> 
> RIG
> CPU=i5 2500k @ 4.0
> Motherboard=Gigabyte Z77-UD3H
> RAM=Patriot Viper @ 2k something mhz(cmiiw) 8gb
> GPU=HIS radeon 7970 reference
> PSU=seasonic 650w bronze 80+
> SSD: Kingston HyperX 120GB + WDC 1 TB
> CASE=LIAN LI aluminum case
> Optical drive and so on
> 
> so here's the problem guys;
> my pc usually stay up almost 24/7 but there are times for hours off on weekends. but everytime i shut down and power up my PC start to go ON (2 sec) and OFF multiple times(i could see the case fan and lights go on and off).
> until finally on my monitor screen comes :UEFI DUAL BIOS and all blue and black color with only those word on the upper middle.
> then after couple of time on and off again it finally get to windows start up and voila no problem what so ever during my PC uptime. As long as i dont shutdown and power up there are NO accidental power off or any error or blue screen or anything! NONE.
> the issue just when im about to power up then my PC turn on for couple of seconds and then shut down by itself(this happen multiple times until those "UEFI DUAL BIOS") and finally it get to windows.
> im wondering what could cause this? is this a problem that need fixing? its annoying yes,but its harmless in my experience while using my PC
> 
> ps:while my PC go ON and OFF during those events there are no "BEEP" sound occured!! u know those "BEEP" sound when u start up ur PC
> 
> pss:i OC my i5 2500k to 4.0 with auto setting from motherboard (i just change the multiplier to 40)


Have you manually set the RAM timings, just off hand it sounds like the board is refusing certain RAM timings and rebooting until it finds one it likes. I wouldn't use "auto" when overclocking, the board like most tend to put far too much power into the CPU to deal with the overclock. I have my 3570K also running at 4Ghz and I dropped my voltage from the default 1.12v to 1.080v and its rock solid stable. If I leave it on auto at that same overclock my CPU voltage hits almost 1.3v and gets needlessly very hot very quick. You should also manually set your RAM voltage to its default of whatever that is, usually 1.5v or 1.65v for certain kinds of RAM, don't leave it on auto. The more you can set components at their rated speed and specs the less the motherboard will try to auto bump them due to an overclock.
When Gigabyte boards don't like voltage or RAM they go into a short boot loop. If anything I have said changes nothing then do a full CMOS clear for about 5 mins with the PSU switched off, then boot, load optimized defaults, reboot, go back into the BIOS and set it up again, then reboot and let windows load.


----------



## goodman1280

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branjo*
> 
> Have you manually set the RAM timings, just off hand it sounds like the board is refusing certain RAM timings and rebooting until it finds one it likes. I wouldn't use "auto" when overclocking, the board like most tend to put far too much power into the CPU to deal with the overclock. I have my 3570K also running at 4Ghz and I dropped my voltage from the default 1.12v to 1.080v and its rock solid stable. If I leave it on auto at that same overclock my CPU voltage hits almost 1.3v and gets needlessly very hot very quick. You should also manually set your RAM voltage to its default of whatever that is, usually 1.5v or 1.65v for certain kinds of RAM, don't leave it on auto. The more you can set components at their rated speed and specs the less the motherboard will try to auto bump them due to an overclock.
> When Gigabyte boards don't like voltage or RAM they go into a short boot loop. If anything I have said changes nothing then do a full CMOS clear for about 5 mins with the PSU switched off, then boot, load optimized defaults, reboot, go back into the BIOS and set it up again, then reboot and let windows load.


thank you for replying but as i said before (english is my 2nd language and there are some parts that's confusing for me)
sorry i didn't know much about ram timing and voltage setting(for both CPU and RAM) but let me get this clear

from your reply it seemed the issues are on "RAM timings" is that correct? and the part about voltage settings are just a nice suggestion,right?
and if you said the RAM is the issues here,how come this "multiple reboot" does not always happened? because there are times where i can shut down my PC and it goes straight to windows right away..but of course there are times when it resulted to "multiple rebooting"..

an if RAM timing really are the problem,do you mind guide me step by step on how to fix that? i really appreciate your help


----------



## Anoxy

Same thing happens to me, but usually only when I have unplugged my PC, or turn off the power switch on my PSU, then reboot. It will power cycle several times before successfully booting.

Somebody mentioned the RAM timings thing before. According to the specs, mine is 1.35V, so I should be manually setting that in the BIOS?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Same thing happens to me, but usually only when I have unplugged my PC, or turn off the power switch on my PSU, then reboot. It will power cycle several times before successfully booting.
> 
> Somebody mentioned the RAM timings thing before. According to the specs, mine is 1.35V, so I should be manually setting that in the BIOS?


There are XMP profiles coming with your memory sticks. That should set everything for you. After you select one of the XMP profiles, you can go and check all timings and voltage. If there are multiple XMP profiles, one will have a little more aggressive timings than the other.

For me, the profile sets 1.5v, but the board then actually runs it at 1.48v or something along those lines. If I manually set it to 1.52v or something, it'll be about 1.5v. The same might be the case for you, the board actually running the memory a good bit lower than 1.35v despite the XMP profile's settings.

Also, there are primary, secondary and tertiary memory timings. The profile only has settings for primary and secondary timings and voltage. The tertiary timings are set by Gigabyte in the board's BIOS. You might want to see if a different BIOS version works better for you and your memory sticks. There's a whole bunch of beta BIOS versions on the tweaktown forums (link is in the first post of this thread). I think the newer beta BIOS versions also introduced a "slew rate" setting on the memory timings screen in the BIOS that makes for example Samsung memory run more stable and overclock better.

I suppose you could also try your hand at tweaking those tertiary timings, but I don't know where you can read up on those timings and memory overclocking.


----------



## Branjo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodman1280*
> 
> thank you for replying but as i said before (english is my 2nd language and there are some parts that's confusing for me)
> sorry i didn't know much about ram timing and voltage setting(for both CPU and RAM) but let me get this clear
> 
> from your reply it seemed the issues are on "RAM timings" is that correct? and the part about voltage settings are just a nice suggestion,right?
> and if you said the RAM is the issues here,how come this "multiple reboot" does not always happened? because there are times where i can shut down my PC and it goes straight to windows right away..but of course there are times when it resulted to "multiple rebooting"..
> 
> an if RAM timing really are the problem,do you mind guide me step by step on how to fix that? i really appreciate your help


There is a setting in your BIOS called "Xtreme Memory Profile", if you set that to "Profile 1" it should read the RAM timings and set them to what they should be via the information on the RAM itself. Then in your "RAM voltage" settings, manually type in 1.500v, it may not solve your problem but it would rule it out. You can also set your RAM timings yourself, but unless you are familiar with it then it might not be a good idea. Youtube is a good place to start for a tutorial on your boards BIOS if you are not yet familiar with it, there are a lot of UD3H videos out there.

The multiple boot problem is something that gigabyte boards do when faced with an unstable overclock, it will try various RAM timings and voltage until it finds one that is bootable. However it still may not be perfectly stable, so it may boot loop like you described on different occasions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Same thing happens to me, but usually only when I have unplugged my PC, or turn off the power switch on my PSU, then reboot. It will power cycle several times before successfully booting.
> 
> Somebody mentioned the RAM timings thing before. According to the specs, mine is 1.35V, so I should be manually setting that in the BIOS?


Yeah couldn't hurt. I try and key in as much as the BIOS will allow, so there is no "auto overclocking or "auto overvolting" going on that I don't know about. These boards are pretty damn exact with the voltage settings unlike past Gigabyte boards. My old P35 DS3R would show a difference of 0.05v of difference which was a pain translating the voltage settings other people were using. Led to a lot more trial and error than I would have liked. Now when I check the vcore on AIDA64, it shows exactly what I have set my Vcore to, I like that.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodman1280*
> 
> thank you for replying but as i said before (english is my 2nd language and there are some parts that's confusing for me)
> sorry i didn't know much about ram timing and voltage setting(for both CPU and RAM) but let me get this clear
> 
> from your reply it seemed the issues are on "RAM timings" is that correct? and the part about voltage settings are just a nice suggestion,right?
> and if you said the RAM is the issues here,how come this "multiple reboot" does not always happened? because there are times where i can shut down my PC and it goes straight to windows right away..but of course there are times when it resulted to "multiple rebooting"..
> 
> an if RAM timing really are the problem,do you mind guide me step by step on how to fix that? i really appreciate your help


First thing to do is go into bios and set default settings and click save and reboot. this will remove your oc. test your system and see if it is still doing the boot loop thing. what bios version are you using? you should at least be using the most current version posted on the Gigabyte site for your board, but can experiment with the latest beta if your still having problems.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Same thing happens to me, but usually only when I have unplugged my PC, or turn off the power switch on my PSU, then reboot. It will power cycle several times before successfully booting.
> 
> Somebody mentioned the RAM timings thing before. According to the specs, mine is 1.35V, so I should be manually setting that in the BIOS?


yes, you change the ram voltage in bios. I do not oc my ram but do use the xmp profile, then go back in and manually set my ram voltage to what was provided by the ram supplier.


----------



## Anoxy

I don't even OC and my mobo does that. Slightly disappointing that it happens on a stock BIOS.


----------



## barkeater

what ver bios ?


----------



## Anoxy

F15q I believe.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> F15q I believe.


You should update to F16c.


----------



## Anoxy

F15q is the latest beta BIOS posted on the gigabyte website.


----------



## deepor

If you don't want to try a newer beta BIOS, at least try to go back to stable F14. Your boot problems really don't sound normal and would annoy me a lot.


----------



## dbrisc

I'm currently running my 1.265 volts in the bios. CPU-Z is only showing ~1.25 is that just from the Vdroop?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbrisc*
> 
> I'm currently running my 1.265 volts in the bios. CPU-Z is only showing ~1.25 is that just from the Vdroop?


That should be vdroop. If you put LLC to High or Turbo it should end up around your 1.265v setting. LLC set to High makes it so max vcore voltage recorded in something like HWMonitor will end up to be about the vcore setting in the BIOS. Turbo seems to raise voltage a little under load for me, but you might want to see what happens for you.


----------



## dbrisc

Yeah I have it set at turbo right now. id assuming it was Vdroop just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Thanks!


----------



## arrow0309

There are some "perfect" vcore voltages, one of them is 1.260v (using right now for the 4.6ghz)
Had to use the llc on extreme, you may try with the turbo value first, what mobo do you have?
Another one is 1.380v, that I'm using for the 4.8ghz


----------



## Anoxy

I wasn't sure which voltage number I was supposed to change, so I switched it to XMP profile 1 and changed "DRAM Voltage" to 1.350V. It was at 1.5V before I changed it.

Guess we'll see if I have more of those boot looping issues.


----------



## dbrisc

That's your RAMs voltage it's fine at 1.5v. Your vcore would be your CPU village if that's what you're looking for. Also depending on what you're ram is running at your probably going to want more than 1.35v to it.

Yeah I have mine set on turbo at 1.265v volts for 4.6 and it CPU-Z it runs at around 1.26v which I think is pretty good so that will probably be my setting for awhile. I'm not thinking 1.265v will cause any awful degradation.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I wasn't sure which voltage number I was supposed to change, so I switched it to XMP profile 1 and changed "DRAM Voltage" to 1.350V. It was at 1.5V before I changed it.
> 
> Guess we'll see if I have more of those boot looping issues.


Yes, DRAM voltage is the one you want, and I think changing to 1.35V may help out that bot loop issue. Keep us posted.

I like the idea of the xmp profile for ram but as with anything that sets values automatically, one needs to scrutinize them when having issues. I noticed early on when putting my system together that the xmp profile set my DRAM voltage to a value other than what the memory supplier spec'd. I changed mine and have never had a memory related issue.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah, I bet that's what the issue was. Especially since it was set at 1.5V and my memory is spec'd at 1.35V. Crossing my fingers, thanks for the help!


----------



## Velathawen

I have started experiencing a really strange problem with my UD5H-WB. Lately, 100% of boot ups will result in the bios being loaded upon power on. I have not overclocked anything and the only thing I have done is to manually set the ram timings for my G.Skill Ram. I just want it to boot normally without loading the bios and have experienced no other quirks or issues with the board.

CPU - 2500K (stock)
Ram - G.Skill Ripjaws 2 x 4
Bios Version - F4

Would you guys recommend me updating to the latest stable bios which looks to be F14?


----------



## deepor

If you set your timings manually and have only set the first few timings, make sure you still also set the XMP profile so that you get the profile's numbers for all settings you don't touch. It's a lot more timings than just those four numbers people usually talk about, and some of those might be important to get it to run stable with the first four numbers.


----------



## Velathawen

I think something is wrong since I can't ever leave bios now. I've reverted everything to stock timings and voltages, even the ram. It boots into bios as soon as I power on and I don't get any error when attempting to force it to boot from my Crucial SSD. It just restarts itself and goes into bios again.

Update - Looks like my dad's system's windows install got corrupted somehow. Doing a reformat/install atm.

Update 2 - still doing it post windows re-install, not sure what's going on.

Update 3 - It works fine if I just discard changes, it will then boot into windows without any hiccups. Why is this happening


----------



## klipe54

Hello everyone,

i have a question i wanna ask about my motherboard.
I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H and i am a little concerned about the temperature that easy tune reports. For example at the moment my CPU temp is 34 C (93 F), but my PCH temp is 70 C (158 F). I guess PCH is the motherboard temp, isn't 70 C too high? it is way hotter than even the CPU. It has even reached the limit that easytune had by default.
Is this normal? is there a chance i am doing damage to my motherboard?

The ambient temperature is a little high during this period because its summer. It is around 30-35 C (86-95 F).


----------



## deepor

Z77X-D3H here, which should be pretty similar, and I think I've never seen PCH temperature as high as you report, even when it was 30c in the room. It might be something unfortunate happening with air flow inside the case for you? Graphics cards can hang over the PCH and obstruct air flow while also heating it up.

(edit)

I started both Heaven to heat up the graphics card and prime95 to stress the CPU and let them run while I was out of this room. The room's temperature is 20c. This case has one somewhat overclocked GTX 560 TI, a 3570k that runs at 1.4v, both GPU and CPU air cooled, two 140mm fans in the front, one 120mm fan in the rear.

When I came back, the PCH reading showed 46c. The test ran about 22 minutes.

I guess if this PC like it sits here would be transplanted into a 30-35c room, it would have been 56c to 61c for the PCH. Those 70c you see are probably not that strange with a different graphics card or a second one or something.


----------



## Branjo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klipe54*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> i have a question i wanna ask about my motherboard.
> I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H and i am a little concerned about the temperature that easy tune reports. For example at the moment my CPU temp is 34 C (93 F), but my PCH temp is 70 C (158 F). I guess PCH is the motherboard temp, isn't 70 C too high? it is way hotter than even the CPU. It has even reached the limit that easytune had by default.
> Is this normal? is there a chance i am doing damage to my motherboard?
> 
> The ambient temperature is a little high during this period because its summer. It is around 30-35 C (86-95 F).


Yeah that does sound a little on the hot side, I would try aiming a small fan directly at the chipset heatsink as best you can. If the temp drops then airflow is your problem, if it has no effect then it might not be making good contact under the heatsink. Give the heatsink a firm but not too firm press and wiggle it a little "with the power off of course", maybe its just not making a good contact on all sides. You could remove the heatsink altogether and apply some fresh TIM but that might void your warranty, they can be a real pain in the butt to get off too.

Mine sits around the 55 - 58C mark, personally I think that is hot. These small heatsinks are pretty crappy if truth be told. Not much we can do though considering where they are located.


----------



## Anoxy

Welp, I don't think changing the RAM voltage completely solved the problem, but it lessened it!

This morning I turned my machine on and it only power cycled once, so maybe it helped a little?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> I think something is wrong since I can't ever leave bios now. I've reverted everything to stock timings and voltages, even the ram. It boots into bios as soon as I power on and I don't get any error when attempting to force it to boot from my Crucial SSD. It just restarts itself and goes into bios again.
> 
> Update - Looks like my dad's system's windows install got corrupted somehow. Doing a reformat/install atm.
> 
> Update 2 - still doing it post windows re-install, not sure what's going on.
> 
> Update 3 - It works fine if I just discard changes, it will then boot into windows without any hiccups. Why is this happening


Yeah, memory timings can cause problems. Why are you manually setting memory timings? Are you offered xmp profile? For whatever reason your manually setting the memory timings it is causing instability. Either use the xmp profile or default timings. If you are looking to oc the memory, and are having problems, I'd suggest posting in the memory thread and see if you can get some help with that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klipe54*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> i have a question i wanna ask about my motherboard.
> I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H and i am a little concerned about the temperature that easy tune reports. For example at the moment my CPU temp is 34 C (93 F), but my PCH temp is 70 C (158 F). I guess PCH is the motherboard temp, isn't 70 C too high? it is way hotter than even the CPU. It has even reached the limit that easytune had by default.
> Is this normal? is there a chance i am doing damage to my motherboard?
> 
> The ambient temperature is a little high during this period because its summer. It is around 30-35 C (86-95 F).


Do a search on this thread on the pch temp. I don't think you have anything to worry about. Are you experiencing any problems?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Welp, I don't think changing the RAM voltage completely solved the problem, but it lessened it!
> 
> This morning I turned my machine on and it only power cycled once, so maybe it helped a little?


Glad to hear.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klipe54*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> i have a question i wanna ask about my motherboard.
> I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H and i am a little concerned about the temperature that easy tune reports. For example at the moment my CPU temp is 34 C (93 F), but my PCH temp is 70 C (158 F). I guess PCH is the motherboard temp, isn't 70 C too high? it is way hotter than even the CPU. It has even reached the limit that easytune had by default.
> Is this normal? is there a chance i am doing damage to my motherboard?
> 
> The ambient temperature is a little high during this period because its summer. It is around 30-35 C (86-95 F).


That does sound a little high, but I don't think its anything to worry about. The chipset is supposedly safe to something like 105C (I forgot intel's exact spec for the z77), but 70C should not damage anything. As mentioned it sounds like you need to check air flow. No fans or wires cluttering your case up?

Running SLI mine idles around 45-50C and loads around 55-60C when its around 25C in my room.


----------



## klipe54

Yea there must be something wrong with my cables or air flow... i feel cold air coming out of the top of my case.... I have some cluttered cables, but there is no place to put them, like the cable that powers the MB, it just has to pass from the middle of the case, blocking everything... and i'm a little scared not to bent them too much and ruin them...
Temp doesn't change much during load, around 2-3 C difference during playing games.
System temp is around 42 C.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klipe54*
> 
> Yea there must be something wrong with my cables or air flow... i feel cold air coming out of the top of my case.... I have some cluttered cables, but there is no place to put them, like the cable that powers the MB, it just has to pass from the middle of the case, blocking everything... and i'm a little scared not to bent them too much and ruin them...
> Temp doesn't change much during load, around 2-3 C difference during playing games.
> System temp is around 42 C.


The MB cable should easily be routed behind the motherboard tray through rubber grommets. What case are you using?

Also, it's highly unlikely you'll damage cables by bending them.


----------



## Revanchist8525

Hello Gigabyte Z77 owners, I have a bit of a peculiar problem with my Core i7 2700k overclocking on this board...

This is what happens.
I use a z77x-ud3h on the f18 bios. I want to overclock my i7 to 4.5 Ghz. I do this by disabling turbo boost, leaving everything else on auto(so no influence from LLC) and then setting the vcore to 1.3v(don't know if it's stable at this voltage, just wanted a starting voltage point). The problem is, when I boot into windows and fire up hwmonitor and Prime95, hwmonitor is reporting that the chip is running at 1.351v! I rebooted the system and checked in the bios for the current vcore, but the motherboard reports it at my correct desired vcore: 1.3v. I'm dreading that this might be caused by a damaged chip or a wonky motherboard. Can anyone help? Does anyone else have this problem? Any advice is greatly appreciated since this discrepancy is really preventing me from overclocking properly!


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revanchist8525*
> 
> Hello Gigabyte Z77 owners, I have a bit of a peculiar problem with my Core i7 2700k overclocking on this board...
> 
> This is what happens.
> I use a z77x-ud3h on the f18 bios. I want to overclock my i7 to 4.5 Ghz. I do this by disabling turbo boost, leaving everything else on auto(so no influence from LLC) and then setting the vcore to 1.3v(don't know if it's stable at this voltage, just wanted a starting voltage point). The problem is, when I boot into windows and fire up hwmonitor and Prime95, hwmonitor is reporting that the chip is running at 1.351v! I rebooted the system and checked in the bios for the current vcore, but the motherboard reports it at my correct desired vcore: 1.3v. I'm dreading that this might be caused by a damaged chip or a wonky motherboard. Can anyone help? Does anyone else have this problem? Any advice is greatly appreciated since this discrepancy is really preventing me from overclocking properly!


Does this mean, when prime95 isn't running and the system is mostly idle, the voltage you usually see in hwmonitor is the correct 1.3v? The 1.35v only show up when prime95 is running?

If this is what's happening, I'd guess the setting you have is LLC on Extreme (or "Auto" behaves just like that). You should try setting LLC to High or Turbo. Perhaps also set the previous two settings on the same screen, "response time" and "phase control", to their max values as there won't be happening anything strange with the VRM temperatures if you do that on this board.

Somewhere in this review - http://www.overclock.net/t/1252290/z77x-ud3h-review-and-oc-testing-circuit-analysis-ln2-runs-efficiency-comparison - there is this pic showing an example of how the LLC on this board works:


----------



## Revanchist8525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Does this mean, when prime95 isn't running and the system is mostly idle, the voltage you usually see in hwmonitor is the correct 1.3v? The 1.35v only show up when prime95 is running?
> 
> If this is what's happening, I'd guess the setting you have is LLC on Extreme (or "Auto" behaves just like that). You should try setting LLC to High or Turbo. Perhaps also set the previous two settings on the same screen, "response time" and "phase control", to their max values as there won't be happening anything strange with the VRM temperatures if you do that on this board.
> 
> Somewhere in this review - http://www.overclock.net/t/1252290/z77x-ud3h-review-and-oc-testing-circuit-analysis-ln2-runs-efficiency-comparison - there is this pic showing an example of how the LLC on this board works:


When the system is idle the CPU goes back to its correct idle c states so the voltages go to 1v and under.
The problem happens when its on load OR simply even touching the 4.5 GHz speed(such as in windows boot up, where the processor is not fully stressed but used).
EDIT: Actually, your predictions are sort of correct. I toned the multiplier down to 43(disabling turbo) and the voltage to 1.33v. Again, the bios reports those volts, but when I boot into windows and use hwmonitor, it reports that its running 1.346 volts on idle! At load it goes up to 1.351!. I have set the LLC to auto. I then set the LLC to high, and the bios volt reported 1.32v. When I boot into windows, nothing changed! It still idles at 1.346v and 1.351v at load according to hwmonitor but oddly enough, cpuz says differently. CPUz actually follows the bios voltage readouts and does what expected when I idle and load.


----------



## deepor

I don't understand how voltage goes down to 1v and under if you've set it to 1.3v? Or do you mean you used DVID and set it to an offset that shows 1.3v in the UEFI?

If you used DVID and want to get it to run at exactly 1.3v max, there's some programs that can show the CPU's VID changing in action depending on load inside Windows. Look at HWINFO64 or CoreTemp, start prime95 and wait a little to see what the max value will be, then use that for your DVID calculations. It's moving between 1.186v and 1.201v for my CPU when prime95 is running.

Also note I don't have a Sandy Bridge CPU, so it might work differently for you.


----------



## Revanchist8525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> I don't understand how voltage goes down to 1v and under if you've set it to 1.3v? Or do you mean you used DVID and set it to an offset that shows 1.3v in the UEFI?
> 
> If you used DVID and want to get it to run at exactly 1.3v max, there's some programs that can show the CPU's VID changing in action depending on load inside Windows. Look at HWINFO64 or CoreTemp, start prime95 and wait a little to see what the max value will be, then use that for your DVID calculations. It's moving between 1.186v and 1.201v for my CPU when prime95 is running.
> 
> Also note I don't have a Sandy Bridge CPU, so it might work differently for you.


I'm sorry deepor, I made a mistake. It indeed does not go down to 1v at idle. According to hwmonitor, no matter what voltage I set the bios or no matter what the LLC I set it at, it still reports that it idles 1.346v and loads at 1.351v while cpuz just stays constant at the desired voltage I set in the bios. I really think hwmonitor is broken in my system or something. I shall try HWinfo64. Core temp also follow hwmonitor's wonky voltages.
Edit: donwloaded Hwinfo64 and to no avail, the voltages still stay at those weird values I never set.


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> Yeah, memory timings can cause problems. Why are you manually setting memory timings? Are you offered xmp profile? For whatever reason your manually setting the memory timings it is causing instability. Either use the xmp profile or default timings. .


It still happens even if everything is untouched by me as the end user (all defaults, xmp profile used, etc).


----------



## Anoxy

Just kidding, looks like changing RAM voltage didn't help after all. This motherboard is moderately frustrating -_-


----------



## Geezerman

What's the verdict on running ram at 1.65V with Ivy Bridge?


----------



## frag85

Side case fan works wonders as well. As long as you aren't hitting 80-90C+ all the time, I'm sure the mobo will last you a long while.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geezerman*
> 
> What's the verdict on running ram at 1.65V with Ivy Bridge?


running the memory voltage too high can cause instability. without posting your specs and what your trying to accomplish your not going to get much meaningful feedback.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Can anyone please write down what values on voltage is using at 4.5 - 4.6 - 4.7Ghz?
If you are using high speed rams you have to raise imc?
I know this question its bit generic, but would like others settings.

Mine at 4.4Ghz needs 1.28V (normal + 0.03v offset), 1.65 PLL and the other settings on Auto. All energy savings are enabled. Temps under 75°C (intel burning test v2.54 very high 10 passes, 32°C ambient).


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *melodystyle2003*
> 
> Can anyone please write down what values on voltage is using at 4.5 - 4.6 - 4.7Ghz?
> If you are using high speed rams you have to raise imc?
> I know this question its bit generic, but would like others settings.
> 
> Mine at 4.4Ghz needs 1.28V (normal + 0.03v offset), 1.65 PLL and the other settings on Auto. All energy savings are enabled. Temps under 75°C (intel burning test v2.54 very high 10 passes, 32°C ambient).


I also use offset to overclock and also have all power saving features enabled. On the "3d power" screen, I have the first setting on "exm perf" or whatever the highest is called. The second setting I have on "fast". The vcore LLC is set to "high". I also decreased PLL to 1.65v like you did at some point, and it changes nothing I can see.

Those are all settings I touched. Setting LLC to High or Turbo seems to be the only one that is important. After this, I just increase multiplier and offset. This works for up to 1.44v vcore for me and I'm scared to look at anything higher.

If your CPU is like mine, you will have to do more than just IBT to be sure that it's stable. Passing prime95 blend for 20 hours needed a good bit more voltage than IBT. After it had passed prime95, the PC seemed perfectly stable on first look, but there were still suspicious program crashes and WHEA warnings showing up in the event viewer. I checked for WHEA warnings at the end of each day and needed to increase offset in 0.005v steps over the course of a few days.

Overall, it ended up being about +0.05v difference between passing IBT and where it eventually ended up. Looking at my notes, it went from passing IBT at 1.22v to 1.265v for the final vcore.

About going from that to higher speeds, the moment it starts to pick up with voltage required for my CPU, it needs about +0.05v for every 100mhz step up. That rule works from vcore of about 1.2v to 1.35v. When it goes towards 1.4v, it wants 0.06v and 0.07v for additional 100mhz steps.

If your CPU behaves exactly like mine, it would look like this if you really are completely stable at your current settings:

4.4 ghz -- +0.03 offset (1.28v)
4.5 ghz -- +0.08 offset (1.33v)
4.6 ghz -- +0.14 offset (1.39v)
4.7 ghz -- +0.21 offset (1.46v (that's scary))


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> 4.4 ghz -- +0.03 offset (1.28v)
> 4.5 ghz -- +0.08 offset (1.33v)
> 4.6 ghz -- +0.14 offset (1.39v)
> 4.7 ghz -- +0.21 offset (1.46v (that's scary))


Wow. When my 3570k on a UD3H is at an offset of +0.1v for 4.4, I get 1.28 in windows. Your base voltage seems like it goes up a lot per frequency. +0.15 gives 1.33 for 4.6 here.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Wow. When my 3570k on a UD3H is at an offset of +0.1v for 4.4, I get 1.28 in windows. Your base voltage seems like it goes up a lot per frequency. +0.15 gives 1.33 for 4.6 here.


That's not my CPU, just what my guess would be for his CPU from what I've seen with mine.

My actual 3570k has VID from 1.185v to 1.200v for 4.6ghz to 4.9ghz. With LLC on High, I set offset +0.080 for 4.6ghz and it's 1.25v. Offset +0.250 runs 4.9ghz at 1.44v.


----------



## r360r

Hey can anyone help me out with a Wake on Lan setup? I have a UD3H mobo and DDWRT enabled router.


----------



## NitrousX

So my father purchased a Gigabyte Z77 D3H as a replacement for his recently fried Asrock P67 board. He has a 2600K CPU. I got everything put together last night and upon entering the BIOS I noticed that the CPU was not down clocking. It was running at full turbo speeds (3.4GHz) and like ~1.2v. Typically it's supposed to drop down to like 1.6GHz and 0.99v when idling. I reset the mobo to optimized defaults and even manually enabled all the power saving features but the CPU continues to run at full turbo speeds. Is there something wrong his board? I've thought about flashing the BIOS to see if it would remedy this issue but wanted to see if you guys had any suggestions first. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> So my father purchased a Gigabyte Z77 D3H as a replacement for his recently fried Asrock P67 board. He has a 2600K CPU. I got everything put together last night and upon entering the BIOS I noticed that the CPU was not down clocking. It was running at full turbo speeds (3.4GHz) and like ~1.2v. Typically it's supposed to drop down to like 1.6GHz and 0.99v when idling. I reset the mobo to optimized defaults and even manually enabled all the power saving features but the CPU continues to run at full turbo speeds. Is there something wrong his board? I've thought about flashing the BIOS to see if it would remedy this issue but wanted to see if you guys had any suggestions first. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.


It's actually the OS that decides to clock down the CPU. The CPU and board don't do anything about that by themselves. The hardware only raises and lowers voltage based on demand but leaves multiplier at what it was last set to by Windows (or Linux, MacOS X, etc.).

If the CPU does not get clocked down inside Windows while everything about power saving is enabled in the BIOS, you should go into the advanced options of the Windows power profile you are using and set the minimum CPU speed to 5% instead of 100%.


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> It's actually the OS that decides to clock down the CPU. The CPU and board don't do anything about that by themselves. The hardware only raises and lowers voltage based on demand but leaves multiplier at what it was last set to by Windows (or Linux, MacOS X, etc.).
> 
> If the CPU does not get clocked down inside Windows while everything about power saving is enabled in the BIOS, you should go into the advanced options of the Windows power profile you are using and set the minimum CPU speed to 5% instead of 100%.


I'll give that a try. His CPU was running at full turbo speeds in both the BIOS and in Windows (balanced power option).

Thanks.


----------



## Branjo

Not for me, I have my power settings on maximum performance with both the CPU minimum and maximum power state set to 100% and it will still revert back to a 16 multiplier when idle.


----------



## deepor

Hey, you are right. Same happens for me on 100% for minimum processor state. It still goes down to 1600mhz a lot.


----------



## Mr357

Can anyone help me with memory overclocking on the UD3H? I just got some G Skill Perfect Storm's (Hypers) and I can't even get them to run at stock settings.


----------



## frag85

Are you running the XMP profile? When I ran 32GB, I could not get my ram to run stable unless I ran XMP. Only entering the first 4 timings aren't enough with them apparently. G.Skill Ares 1866mhz, 10-11-10-30.

What model ram? There are several listed that I see on newegg from 2000 cl8 to 2200 cl9, all 1.65v. You aren't going to see much of a performance improvement in day to day tasks running them at 2200mhz.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Are you running the XMP profile? When I ran 32GB, I could not get my ram to run stable unless I ran XMP. Only entering the first 4 timings aren't enough with them apparently. G.Skill Ares 1866mhz, 10-11-10-30.
> 
> What model ram? There are several listed that I see on newegg from 2000 cl8 to 2200 cl9, all 1.65v. You aren't going to see much of a performance improvement in day to day tasks running them at 2200mhz.


3 x 2GB (Only using 2 sticks since I'm on Z77) 2000 8-8-8-21 1.65V Link

I actually disabled XMP. Guess I shouldn't have since I have no clue what to do with sub-timings (didn't mess with them). I know there's something critically wrong since my system couldn't survive MemTest or P95 blend for more than 15 seconds when I had the sticks at just 1866 8-8-8-22 with 1.65V. I had my VTT at 1.17V, so I doubt that was the issue, and I was using perfectly safe CPU settings.


----------



## DeXel

Looks like UD5H finally got a stable BIOS.
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-799.html

Fast boot + OC still broken.
BCLK seems to be gone and it's stuck on 99.8 Mhz for me.


----------



## zzalk

Hey guys, anyone knows on this debug led of the UD3H how do you distinguish the 0 from the D. When boot on windows it says A0 or AD, probably A0 as thats what most people get, but how do you distinguish those digits? I am asking because when i boot on linux i get a 00 error code, but there is no such code on the manual. The only thing close to it is D0 which says it is a CPU initialization error, but linux boots just fine. Also on windows i dont get that 00 code at all. Anyone knows whats going on or if i am reading the codes correctly?


----------



## deepor

looks like this on the LED display: 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A b C d E F

B is written like a lower case b. Do note that 6 has a line at the top and b does not.

D is written as a lower case d.


----------



## zzalk

So, i guess thats a zero then, but whats that 00 code when i boot on linux? there is no such code on the manual.


----------



## deepor

Google search found this on some forum discussion somewhere, which makes sense:
Quote:


> AMI BIOS POST Code 00 is Call to Interrupt 19 for boot loader
> 
> This is the point where after a successful POST control is then passed to the boot loader on first bootable device (i.e. your SSD RAID Array) to load the operating system.


So it puts 00 on the display before it tries to boot the OS, and after that the BIOS isn't in control anymore and nothing updates the LED display and the 00 just stays. No idea why it won't show 00 for Windows.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Looks like UD5H finally got a stable BIOS.
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-799.html
> 
> Fast boot + OC still broken.
> BCLK seems to be gone and it's stuck on 99.8 Mhz for me.


New one posted today.


----------



## Anoxy

yaaaaa buddy power cycling still going strong, I just ADORE this motherboard


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> New one posted today.










Feature wise it's the perfect BIOS for UD5H. Fast boot works with OC, BLCK is back and that's about all I've been waiting for all this time. Let's hope it doesn't crash







. Thanks stasio.

BTW can you ask them look into DPC latency on UD5H? I tried to email their support like 6 months ago, but didn't get far. Now since they managed to fix those on Z87X-UD3H, maybe they will look into older boards...

Or is it just me having it jump all around?


----------



## Jack Mac

Anyone know if we'll ever see a new BIOS for the UP5 TH?


----------



## Nwanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feature wise it's the perfect BIOS for UD5H. Fast boot works with OC, BLCK is back and that's about all I've been waiting for all this time. Let's hope it doesn't crash
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks stasio.
> 
> BTW can you ask them look into DPC latency on UD5H? I tried to email their support like 6 months ago, but didn't get far. Now since they managed to fix those on Z87X-UD3H, maybe they will look into older boards...
> 
> Or is it just me having it jump all around?


Tried f16,f16mod,f16mod2.

The gen3 issue still present with my 7950. The card wont give out a signal unless i set it to gen2 and disable the igpu. And It only boots on the Official non modded F16 bios. Fast boot doesnt work for my situation.


----------



## r0ach

F7 is still the best UD5H BIOS for my 2500k..

F8 came out and said something in the patch notes about "Improve keyboard compatibility". That BIOS made mouse response feel like garbage (using a G400 with no mouse software installed). Also got huge FPS slowdowns in League of Legends for no reason while using that BIOS as well. The next few BIOS all had similar mouse issues. F14 came out and was better, but probably not as good as F7 mouse response-wise. F14 also had insane VCORE issues where if I set 1.35v in BIOS, the real vcore would be 1.5v or something insanely high, but using lower vcore than that worked normal.

Now I just tried F16, mouse response is now the same or worse than F8 all over again. Please stop screwing with USB stuff in the BIOS.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Anyone know if we'll ever see a new BIOS for the UP5 TH?


F12j is latest.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> F12j is latest.


D/L link? F12e is the latest version on the gigabyte website for me. And it was released on November 21, 2012...


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> F12j is latest.
> 
> 
> 
> D/L link? F12e is the latest version on the gigabyte website for me. And it was released on November 21, 2012...
Click to expand...

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647

also this... latest BIOS with updates for the various modules inside it:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48085-gigabyte-modified-bios.html#post462867


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647
> 
> also this... latest BIOS with updates for the various modules inside it:
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48085-gigabyte-modified-bios.html#post462867


Why is this on Tweaktown and not the Gigabyte website? I'd rather stick with F11.. Beta bios that isn't even from the manufacturer's website seems sketchier than a drawing.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Why is this on Tweaktown and not the Gigabyte website? I'd rather stick with F11.. Beta bios that isn't even from the manufacturer's website seems sketchier than a drawing.


Stasio and other guys get them from their contacts at Gigabyte. At the most part these unreleased BETAs are more stable than those that GB posts on their website for some reason.


----------



## ikjadoon

Hi! If I understood everyone correctly, the UD3H can control 3-pin fans from just system fan headers 1 and 4, right?

Is there any way to control 3-pin fans on headers 2/3? Any software or am I out of luck?

I looked in the manual, I couldn't find anything.

And, I presume it's the same for the UD5H?


----------



## deepor

Mentioning "Speed Control" is how the manual explains what each fan header can do. Try y-cables and put them all on SYS_FAN1. SYS_FAN4 can't do anything.


----------



## ikjadoon

OHHHHHHHHH. I get it now! Wow, that was a great explanation. Thank you--I'm going to go find a y-cable!









EDIT: If anyone else was looking/curious, I found a great 3-way adapter, nice sleeving, and only $9: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13977/cab-493/Bitfenix_Alchemy_Multisleeve_3-Pin_to_3x_3-Pin_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_60cm_-_Black_BFA-MSC-3F33F60KK-RP.html?tl=g47c251s635#blank


----------



## CptAsian

Okay, so I just got a new PSU and GPU yesterday, and today when I woke up my computer, I got the D3 debug code as usual. I put my computer to sleep this evening to go eat dinner, and when I came back, I got the E3 debug code. I looked it up, and read that it means "OS S3 wake vector call." I did some Googling, and found this. It really doesn't seem like my computer is off, so... Just wondering what this actually is.


----------



## CptAsian

Sorry to bump so soon, but my rig BSOD'd last night, which I think is had something to do with the E3 code. It restarted and everything went smoothly last night, so I put it to sleep. This morning, I had the D3 debug code as usual, but my theme was lost and I had terrible coil whine, which I did not previously have. This is all because of the PSU, correct? I'm feeling pretty desperate as to how to fix this, and I'm not too eager to send back the PSU, but I will if I have to. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptAsian*
> 
> Sorry to bump so soon, but my rig BSOD'd last night, which I think is had something to do with the E3 code. It restarted and everything went smoothly last night, so I put it to sleep. This morning, I had the D3 debug code as usual, but my theme was lost and I had terrible coil whine, which I did not previously have. This is all because of the PSU, correct? I'm feeling pretty desperate as to how to fix this, and I'm not too eager to send back the PSU, but I will if I have to. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.


If your theme was lost I would guess it has something to do with your GPU drivers.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> If your theme was lost I would guess it has something to do with your GPU drivers.


I forgot to mention that this morning, after everything was acting up, I restarted my computer, and all was normal again. I think now what I just want to know is what the E3 debug code really means. Does it have something to do with the C3, C6, and C7 sleep states? I was told to turn those three off in the HD 7XXX thread, and leave C1E and Speedstep enabled.


----------



## barkeater

deleted


----------



## ikjadoon

OK, I don't want to brag, but I just read all 6,000 posts in this thread. What am I doing with my life? Anyways, made a list of useful posts (to find actual post..um, the hyperlinks didn't go through, so I would just search for those words):

"IMC voltage must be 0.005v lower than the VTT"

"BTW IBT isn't as strong as Prime95 is for SB/IB"

"Reflash the BIOS with F7, put the BIOS ROM on a USB flash driver formatted in FAT32.
Go into advanced mode and hit F8 and then qFLash will come up, update to the latest BIOS.
After it is done flashing it will ask you if you want to shut down or restart, hit reboot.
THen immediately go into the BIOS, goto advanced mode, the last page, and select "load optimized defaults" then save and exit.

That is how you should correctly flash the BIOS."

"both chipset drivers should be install first, however you might want to install the LAN drivers first to get ont he internet and download the rest. i would install all of them, however you wont be able to install the intel VGA drivers unless you remove your dGPU or set the iGPU to be IGFX Init first.

"Load optimized default you do through the BIOS, you goto the advanced menu, to the last page of the BIOS where it says save and exit, but you press the setting called "load optimized defaults" and then save and reboot."

"yea and also don't install splashdot or whatever it is lol."

"Also if anyone else has run into this, I was unable to load the intel management engine software off the CD or from the gigabyte website for this board, it gave me an error during the install. I ended up getting a newer version of the driver off of tweak town's Gigabyte forums, they had it under the latest software thread, and it loaded up fine."

"yea do this, go back to how you had it after the first step, i think both iGPU and dGPU need to be enabled, so just plug back into the iGPU after setting display first to IGFX, leave your dGPU plugged in."

"Using DVID successfully is a bit tricky. To get the proper voltages at both load and idle, you have to set DVID and LLC settings appropriately. When using DVID, it basically it comes down to this:

•LLC will adjust the size of the range between idle and load Vcore.
•DVID offset will shift that whole range up or down.

If you are having troubles with stability at idle, then try reducing LLC while increasing the DVID offset. This will make the idle voltage higher while the load voltage will be the same as before. If on the other hand you are having trouble with stability at load, then try increasing LLC while leaving DVID the same. This will make the load voltage higher while the idle voltage will remain the same."

"Thanks for your help! To everyone else, I did have all the power savings features on, I just couldn't get the voltage adjustments to work. Changing the LLC from Turbo to Medium gave me a idle voltage of 1.05 instead of 0.996, at normal, which solved my issues. Adding the correct offset afterwards was easy"

"If you have C-states and EIST enabled then your idle voltage will be something like 0.60-1.10v. Raising the LLC in this case will increase your load vcore only, while raising your offset under this setup will increase your idle and vcore (LLC is the range of vcore between idle and load, and offset is the shifting of that range)."

"(1) Raise your CPU Vcore to 1.100
(2) Increase your IMC to within .005 of your Cpu Vtt, for example IMC 1.050 and CPU Vtt to 1.055
(3) Increase your CPU/PCIe base clock from 100.00MHZ to 100.01MHZ which seems to work for me (some have reported success on 100.10 and 101)"

"You have to set power plan to "High perfomance" when overclocking a 2500k on the UD5h, otherwise the PC will go into hibernate and become unstable and crash shortly after resuming from hibernate. At least an until an option is added to the bios for turning off PLL Overvoltage when overclocking."

"Flahing the BIOS is a pretty big deal, now we have dual BIOS as well as the manual switch on the UD3H and the UD5H and on the G1.Sniper 3 as well, so we don't really need to worry about the BIOS corrupting from a flash. but the truth is normal consumers freak out, so GB has made it so that when users flash they should use the physical ports which GB knows are properly powered and correctly situated. That is why you need to flash from the back ports"

"anyone can teach me how to flash the backup bios as well
cant find anything on the manual.
If you have a UD3H or UD5H or G1.Sniper3 then you can flick the switch to the other BIOS and flash it. otherwise press ALT+F10 on bootup and it should eventually catch at the right moment and update your backup BIOS."

"processor sleep states.

http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-028739.htm

Basically they clock the processor down when its not busy, they save power. I call it race to 0. Work is a countdown, 0 is rest time.

I leave them all on, most of the time. Sometimes they can cause stability issues with overclock, but I have had no issues with Ivy. YMMV

Turbo is the exact opposite, it clocks the processor up to speed the trip to 0. Disable turbo when overclocking, unless you are using it as your overclock, I guess that's totally feasible but then you have to keep up with more stuff. Base multi, 1 core multi, 2 core multi, 4 core multi....ughh pain in the arse.

The sleep states allow the processor to lower the multiplier, temps and voltage when its idling. That's a good thing, the less time spent at full power the better."

"Update on my previous problem getting this message every minute: "Power Surge On Hub Port" A USB device has exceeded the power limits of the hub port..... Turns out all I had to do was reset my cmos and it went away. Spent hours trying everything else. I should have known better because in my case it all started after I reset my cmos. Hopefully this info will save someone else time."

"BTW if you freeze while your board can't clear CMOS, there is a way you can hit the power button a certain way to engage safe mode in the BIOS. I think you hit power, then let go and hold back the power switch while the system is turning on, then let go after it shuts off and hit on again like 20 seconds later."

"24/7 for Sandy Bridge: Keep volts under 1.35v, and temps under 85C for max peak."

"just use DVID and the vcore will throttle down during idle, the LLC wont affect it much.

"Phase control determines whether the VRM will work to favor efficiency or performance, so extreme performance can result in a warmer VRM, but might be good for Ln2 OC.

Voltage response determines how fast the voltage changes for different load states. You might want to leave that on fast. but leave phase performance on auto."

"Also try taking BCLK to 100.00 set, not auto, auto sets it to like 100.9 which causes 90% of the stability issues, the other 10% are caused by un updated windows installations, as if you go right now and change your BCLK then it will help, if it doesn't you can switch to a windows XP install and you wont have the BDOS anymore"

"Did you try a proper CMOS clear? Take out the batter, unplug the power plugs, and then short the battery connector leads and then hit clear CMOS and hold it down."

"yea just download it and update. GIGABYTE doesn't do anything to the drivers."

"Sleep mode is tricky and one cannot be so fast as to blame any single thing until they find it. Windows / Device Manager Power Management settings / Power options settings.....You just don't know what it is until you nail it.

A good operating Sleep Mode is one function I must have. In all my computing years I have not had a PC that did not need to have a sleep issue ironed out"

"You can just leave turbo on auto, but changes from BIOS to BIOS vary thus i recommend people disable it, it is easiest. Also with it disabled current and watts are maxed out automatically. Messing with the turbo mode is for people who want to get more advanced with it, and like for someone who wants to limit the current and watts, I talked to an intel dude and he actually was saying that some people want to limit those things while overclocking, i really didn't know what to say to that."

"Enable EIST and set Windows power management to balanced. It will downlock."

"Offset values add and subtract from VID. Use Core Temp to figure out your current VID."


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> OK, I don't want to brag, but I just read all 6,000 posts in this thread. What am I doing with my life? Anyways, made a list of useful posts (to find actual post..um, the hyperlinks didn't go through, so I would just search for those words):
> 
> "IMC voltage must be 0.005v lower than the VTT"
> 
> "BTW IBT isn't as strong as Prime95 is for SB/IB"
> 
> "Reflash the BIOS with F7, put the BIOS ROM on a USB flash driver formatted in FAT32.
> Go into advanced mode and hit F8 and then qFLash will come up, update to the latest BIOS.
> After it is done flashing it will ask you if you want to shut down or restart, hit reboot.
> THen immediately go into the BIOS, goto advanced mode, the last page, and select "load optimized defaults" then save and exit.
> 
> That is how you should correctly flash the BIOS."
> 
> "both chipset drivers should be install first, however you might want to install the LAN drivers first to get ont he internet and download the rest. i would install all of them, however you wont be able to install the intel VGA drivers unless you remove your dGPU or set the iGPU to be IGFX Init first.
> 
> "Load optimized default you do through the BIOS, you goto the advanced menu, to the last page of the BIOS where it says save and exit, but you press the setting called "load optimized defaults" and then save and reboot."
> 
> "yea and also don't install splashdot or whatever it is lol."
> 
> "Also if anyone else has run into this, I was unable to load the intel management engine software off the CD or from the gigabyte website for this board, it gave me an error during the install. I ended up getting a newer version of the driver off of tweak town's Gigabyte forums, they had it under the latest software thread, and it loaded up fine."
> 
> "yea do this, go back to how you had it after the first step, i think both iGPU and dGPU need to be enabled, so just plug back into the iGPU after setting display first to IGFX, leave your dGPU plugged in."
> 
> "Using DVID successfully is a bit tricky. To get the proper voltages at both load and idle, you have to set DVID and LLC settings appropriately. When using DVID, it basically it comes down to this:
> 
> •LLC will adjust the size of the range between idle and load Vcore.
> •DVID offset will shift that whole range up or down.
> 
> If you are having troubles with stability at idle, then try reducing LLC while increasing the DVID offset. This will make the idle voltage higher while the load voltage will be the same as before. If on the other hand you are having trouble with stability at load, then try increasing LLC while leaving DVID the same. This will make the load voltage higher while the idle voltage will remain the same."
> 
> "Thanks for your help! To everyone else, I did have all the power savings features on, I just couldn't get the voltage adjustments to work. Changing the LLC from Turbo to Medium gave me a idle voltage of 1.05 instead of 0.996, at normal, which solved my issues. Adding the correct offset afterwards was easy"
> 
> "If you have C-states and EIST enabled then your idle voltage will be something like 0.60-1.10v. Raising the LLC in this case will increase your load vcore only, while raising your offset under this setup will increase your idle and vcore (LLC is the range of vcore between idle and load, and offset is the shifting of that range)."
> 
> "(1) Raise your CPU Vcore to 1.100
> (2) Increase your IMC to within .005 of your Cpu Vtt, for example IMC 1.050 and CPU Vtt to 1.055
> (3) Increase your CPU/PCIe base clock from 100.00MHZ to 100.01MHZ which seems to work for me (some have reported success on 100.10 and 101)"
> 
> "You have to set power plan to "High perfomance" when overclocking a 2500k on the UD5h, otherwise the PC will go into hibernate and become unstable and crash shortly after resuming from hibernate. At least an until an option is added to the bios for turning off PLL Overvoltage when overclocking."
> 
> "Flahing the BIOS is a pretty big deal, now we have dual BIOS as well as the manual switch on the UD3H and the UD5H and on the G1.Sniper 3 as well, so we don't really need to worry about the BIOS corrupting from a flash. but the truth is normal consumers freak out, so GB has made it so that when users flash they should use the physical ports which GB knows are properly powered and correctly situated. That is why you need to flash from the back ports"
> 
> "anyone can teach me how to flash the backup bios as well
> cant find anything on the manual.
> If you have a UD3H or UD5H or G1.Sniper3 then you can flick the switch to the other BIOS and flash it. otherwise press ALT+F10 on bootup and it should eventually catch at the right moment and update your backup BIOS."
> 
> "processor sleep states.
> 
> http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-028739.htm
> 
> Basically they clock the processor down when its not busy, they save power. I call it race to 0. Work is a countdown, 0 is rest time.
> 
> I leave them all on, most of the time. Sometimes they can cause stability issues with overclock, but I have had no issues with Ivy. YMMV
> 
> Turbo is the exact opposite, it clocks the processor up to speed the trip to 0. Disable turbo when overclocking, unless you are using it as your overclock, I guess that's totally feasible but then you have to keep up with more stuff. Base multi, 1 core multi, 2 core multi, 4 core multi....ughh pain in the arse.
> 
> The sleep states allow the processor to lower the multiplier, temps and voltage when its idling. That's a good thing, the less time spent at full power the better."
> 
> "Update on my previous problem getting this message every minute: "Power Surge On Hub Port" A USB device has exceeded the power limits of the hub port..... Turns out all I had to do was reset my cmos and it went away. Spent hours trying everything else. I should have known better because in my case it all started after I reset my cmos. Hopefully this info will save someone else time."
> 
> "BTW if you freeze while your board can't clear CMOS, there is a way you can hit the power button a certain way to engage safe mode in the BIOS. I think you hit power, then let go and hold back the power switch while the system is turning on, then let go after it shuts off and hit on again like 20 seconds later."
> 
> "24/7 for Sandy Bridge: Keep volts under 1.35v, and temps under 85C for max peak."
> 
> "just use DVID and the vcore will throttle down during idle, the LLC wont affect it much.
> 
> "Phase control determines whether the VRM will work to favor efficiency or performance, so extreme performance can result in a warmer VRM, but might be good for Ln2 OC.
> 
> Voltage response determines how fast the voltage changes for different load states. You might want to leave that on fast. but leave phase performance on auto."
> 
> "Also try taking BCLK to 100.00 set, not auto, auto sets it to like 100.9 which causes 90% of the stability issues, the other 10% are caused by un updated windows installations, as if you go right now and change your BCLK then it will help, if it doesn't you can switch to a windows XP install and you wont have the BDOS anymore"
> 
> "Did you try a proper CMOS clear? Take out the batter, unplug the power plugs, and then short the battery connector leads and then hit clear CMOS and hold it down."
> 
> "yea just download it and update. GIGABYTE doesn't do anything to the drivers."
> 
> "Sleep mode is tricky and one cannot be so fast as to blame any single thing until they find it. Windows / Device Manager Power Management settings / Power options settings.....You just don't know what it is until you nail it.
> 
> A good operating Sleep Mode is one function I must have. In all my computing years I have not had a PC that did not need to have a sleep issue ironed out"
> 
> "You can just leave turbo on auto, but changes from BIOS to BIOS vary thus i recommend people disable it, it is easiest. Also with it disabled current and watts are maxed out automatically. Messing with the turbo mode is for people who want to get more advanced with it, and like for someone who wants to limit the current and watts, I talked to an intel dude and he actually was saying that some people want to limit those things while overclocking, i really didn't know what to say to that."
> 
> "Enable EIST and set Windows power management to balanced. It will downlock."
> 
> "Offset values add and subtract from VID. Use Core Temp to figure out your current VID."


I thought you had a Z87 board?? I wouldn't expect the Z77 UD5H to behave the same as the the Z87. I have both boards and nothing could be further from the truth.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I thought you had a Z87 board?? I wouldn't expect the Z77 UD5H to behave the same as the the Z87. I have both boards and nothing could be further from the truth.


Well, here's what happened:


September 3rd: Get a steal on a i7-2600K on eBay
September 5th: do much research and discover Z77X-UD3H is the best board for under $160. Buy Z77X-UD3H.
September 6th: Get i7-2600K in mail. Holy batman, all six sides of the CPU have been plastered in thermal paste and poorly removed (the contacts on the bottom were disgusting--no way I was putting that in a new motherboard). Tell eBay seller I want a full refund.
September 7th: Buy i5-3570K new on Amazon and overnight it: forget eBay, man. I just need a rig soon. Hope to goodness eBay seller will refund.
September 5th - 10th: read literally every post in this thread to understand this motherboard - make above summary post of all useful posts.
September 10th: read reviews about Haswell's performance (meh), but see that new Gigabyte Z87X motherboards have many more features and fix the fan controller weakness on the Z77X. Amazingly, find a deal later that night for i5-4670K and Z87X-UD5H for only $20 more than I paid for the i5-3570K + Z77X-UD3H. Return i5-3570K + Z77X-UD3H and buy i5-4670K + Z87X-UD5H. Read all the pages of the Z87X thread and make summary post there.
Today: eBay seller finally accepts and will give me a full refund on the i7-2600K. Amazon refunds me for both the Z77X-UD3H and i5-3570K. i5-4670K and Z87X-UD5H arrive today.

So, in the course of about a week, I've owned a Sandy Bridge, an Ivy Bridge, and a Haswell CPU. And read over 8,000 posts combined (each of the mobo's main thread and their OC guide written by Sin). Whew, I'm done for a while, LOL.

~Ibrahim~


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> Well, here's what happened:
> 
> 
> September 3rd: Get a steal on a i7-2600K on eBay
> September 5th: do much research and discover Z77X-UD3H is the best board for under $160. Buy Z77X-UD3H.
> September 6th: Get i7-2600K in mail. Holy batman, all six sides of the CPU have been plastered in thermal paste and poorly removed (the contacts on the bottom were disgusting--no way I was putting that in a new motherboard). Tell eBay seller I want a full refund.
> September 7th: Buy i5-3570K new on Amazon and overnight it: forget eBay, man. I just need a rig soon. Hope to goodness eBay seller will refund.
> September 5th - 10th: read literally every post in this thread to understand this motherboard - make above summary post of all useful posts.
> September 10th: read reviews about Haswell's performance (meh), but see that new Gigabyte Z87X motherboards have many more features and fix the fan controller weakness on the Z77X. Amazingly, find a deal later that night for i5-4670K and Z87X-UD5H for only $20 more than I paid for the i5-3570K + Z77X-UD3H. Return i5-3570K + Z77X-UD3H and buy i5-4670K + Z87X-UD5H. Read all the pages of the Z87X thread and make summary post there.
> Today: eBay seller finally accepts and will give me a full refund on the i7-2600K. Amazon refunds me for both the Z77X-UD3H and i5-3570K. i5-4670K and Z87X-UD5H arrive today.
> 
> So, in the course of about a week, I've owned a Sandy Bridge, an Ivy Bridge, and a Haswell CPU. And read over 8,000 posts combined (each of the mobo's main thread and their OC guide written by Sin). Whew, I'm done for a while, LOL.
> 
> ~Ibrahim~


What an adventure...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> What an adventure...


Amen!









I have to say, though, I have 2x Z77X UD5H boards and they are very good.
I also have a Z87X UD5H (well I had another one but got rid of it due to problems) and it's looking like it's going to be a great board, but at first I was skeptical!


----------



## dougb62

Hello - I am at a loss - it seems I am searching incorrectly (Google and here). I am looking to disable the boost feature on the z77x-ud5h. I want the bclk to be locked at 100.00MHz and not fluctuate. I know I did this before, but I can't for the life of me remember how. The reason is that my GTX 660 FTW Sig2 doesn't get along well with the slight bump of the bclk. (picky, picky, picky). Any help appreciated!!


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Hello - I am at a loss - it seems I am searching incorrectly (Google and here). I am looking to disable the boost feature on the z77x-ud5h. I want the bclk to be locked at 100.00MHz and not fluctuate. I know I did this before, but I can't for the life of me remember how. The reason is that my GTX 660 FTW Sig2 doesn't get along well with the slight bump of the bclk. (picky, picky, picky). Any help appreciated!!


I have the same issue with my UP5TH, not having any problems with stability but I'd like a flat 100BCLK. Help would be appreciated.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Hello - I am at a loss - it seems I am searching incorrectly (Google and here). I am looking to disable the boost feature on the z77x-ud5h. I want the bclk to be locked at 100.00MHz and not fluctuate. I know I did this before, but I can't for the life of me remember how. The reason is that my GTX 660 FTW Sig2 doesn't get along well with the slight bump of the bclk. (picky, picky, picky). Any help appreciated!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same issue with my UP5TH, not having any problems with stability but I'd like a flat 100BCLK. Help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Have you guys disabled Spread Spectrum? I know that can cause BCLCK fluctuations.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> What an adventure...


For real.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Amen!
> ;D
> 
> I have to say, though, I have 2x Z77X UD5H boards and they are very good.I also have a Z87X UD5H (well I had another one but got rid of it due to problems) and it's looking like it's going to be a great board, but at first I was skeptical!


Yeah, haha. This is my first ever complete build (had a barebones last time that I added parts to), so lessons for the future: no CPUs from eBay and figure the fudge out what you want to buy.







I appreciate your guys' sympathy instead of a "lol, you idiot" (though completely appropriate-at least $70 in wasted shipping costs).

Yeah, mandrix, besides sin and another guy, you have the most posts on this thread, haha. Glad to hear the Z77X rigs are seemingly....durable.







I did notice your Z87X return and legitimately began thinking, OK, this guy either has hard drives from Satan, has terrible luck with his motherboard being defective, or Gigabyte never expected anyone to use like 6 hard drives, lol. Glad to hear the new one is a keeper,









---

System ran on first boot!







No fires, sparks, or explosions. However, and I'm not joking, my 5-year-old Dell LCD 20" monitor died last night. Why...why now?!







It had some flickering black lines that I thought were caused by my lack of proper drivers, but nope.







The adventure continues---but not in this thread as, if I don't stop now, this will become a long-winded build log, LOL.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> Have you guys disabled Spread Spectrum? I know that can cause BCLCK fluctuations.


Thanks, I'll try this when I get home.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> Have you guys disabled Spread Spectrum? I know that can cause BCLCK fluctuations.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll try this when I get home.
Click to expand...

There is no option for this on the UD5H, or most other current Gigabyte boards that I am aware of.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> Have you guys disabled Spread Spectrum? I know that can cause BCLCK fluctuations.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll try this when I get home.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There is no option for this on the UD5H, or most other current Gigabyte boards that I am aware of.
Click to expand...

By golly, you're right! I think I read that from an ASRock overclocking guide now that you mention it! Sorry for the misdirection.







Huh. That's a little surprising. Wonder why...

Hmm..., so you were able to stabilize your BCLK before, so maybe it was something other than Spread Spectrum. I presume you both already tried setting it via Manual and inputting 100.00MHz? Technically, I think the "boost" Gigabyte put in some of their boards to beat benchmarks (and increase system performance...but I think benchmarks were the main reason, haha) was increasing the Turbo Multiplier to the maximum when on 100% 4-core load. Usually, Turbo Boost is disabled (or doesn't increase the multiplier, whichever way you look at it) at 4-cores @ 100%.

I don't know something, besides Spread Spectrum, that would cause the BCLK to fluctuate.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> By golly, you're right! I think I read that from an ASRock overclocking guide now that you mention it! Sorry for the misdirection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Huh. That's a little surprising. Wonder why...
> 
> Hmm..., so you were able to stabilize your BCLK before, so maybe it was something other than Spread Spectrum. I presume you both already tried setting it via Manual and inputting 100.00MHz? Technically, I think the "boost" Gigabyte put in some of their boards to beat benchmarks (and increase system performance...but I think benchmarks were the main reason, haha) was increasing the Turbo Multiplier to the maximum when on 100% 4-core load. Usually, Turbo Boost is disabled (or doesn't increase the multiplier, whichever way you look at it) at 4-cores @ 100%.
> 
> I don't know something, besides Spread Spectrum, that would cause the BCLK to fluctuate.


All I know is that under the RAM section or something there's an option called performance enhance. It doesn't have a disable button, just Normal, Turbo, and I believe Extreme. This seems to increase my BLCK, but it can't be disabled so I'm stuck at 100.01-100.05.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> I presume you both already tried setting it via Manual and inputting 100.00MHz?


Yep.

When I had done it before, I was setting all kinds of things (new to the board, and rusty from years of being away from overclocking, and computer building in general), and I wound up clearing BIOS due to a failed overclock. I have no idea now what it might have been that did it - but I do know that there was no "underclocking" either. I had the BCLK manually entered as 100.00MHz, and the multiplier at 42, and the thing ran rock-steady at 4.2GHz...


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> All I know is that under the RAM section or something there's an option called performance enhance. It doesn't have a disable button, just Normal, Turbo, and I believe Extreme. This seems to increase my BLCK, but it can't be disabled so I'm stuck at 100.01-100.05.


Hmm...this guy says it gives you options between frequency and timings:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunrazor*
> 
> Actually you are both wrong and right. I checked this with gigabyte. The standard, turbo and extreme settings does the following:
> 
> Standard gives the highest memory frequency but unaltered timing values.
> 
> Turbo gives a balance between frequency increase and lower timings.
> 
> Extreme gives the lowest possible settings for timing but may actually result in a lower frequency depending on memory.


Sin, later in that thread, states that it should be set to Turbo. It apparently affects the tRd timing , as determined from this post by a "Gigabyte Guru" on TweakTown.

Why should a memory timing be changing the BCLK (I have no idea--didn't think that was supposed to happen, but I'm as curious as you, haha)? You are saying that at "Normal" you're at one end of the BCLK range and at "Extreme" you're at the other?


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> Hmm...this guy says it gives you options between frequency and timings:
> Sin, later in that thread, states that it should be set to Turbo. It apparently affects the tRd timing , as determined from this post by a "Gigabyte Guru" on TweakTown.
> 
> Why should a memory timing be changing the BCLK (I have no idea--didn't think that was supposed to happen, but I'm as curious as you, haha)? You are saying that at "Normal" you're at one end of the BCLK range and at "Extreme" you're at the other?


I thought that's what it did. Oh well. I don't really care about the BCLK issue, but it's annoying.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> I thought that's what it did. Oh well. I don't really care about the BCLK issue, but it's annoying.


Hmm...after further research, this Anandtech article on X48 states that the tRD is actually the MCH Read Delay, so it may actually be the cause of the fluctuation: http://www.anandtech.com/show/2427/6

But, I'm at the limits of what I understand.







If this happened on my system (haven't had a chance to check), I would think about it like this: all the numbers in the software are error-prone. Voltage readings are a great example: almost always, they're 0.0x volts off. Thus, for all we know, if the software (read: BIOS) reports 100.05MHz, that just might be 100.00MHz in reality (the hardware).

Just maybe setting it to 100.05MHz in the software overcomes some weird droop. I'm totally talking out of my ass, haha, but it makes me feel better about oddities like this.

~Ibrahim~


----------



## mxthunder

Why is the ga z77 up7 not included in this thread? I know it has its own thread but its not very active


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> Why is the ga z77 up7 not included in this thread? I know it has its own thread but its not very active


Where did you read that it isn't included? As far as I'm aware it's a Z77X board so it's included in this thread.


----------



## smoke2

Please, delete this post.
Thanks.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikjadoon*
> 
> Hmm...after further research, this Anandtech article on X48 states that the tRD is actually the MCH Read Delay, so it may actually be the cause of the fluctuation: http://www.anandtech.com/show/2427/6
> 
> But, I'm at the limits of what I understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this happened on my system (haven't had a chance to check), I would think about it like this: all the numbers in the software are error-prone. Voltage readings are a great example: almost always, they're 0.0x volts off. Thus, for all we know, if the software (read: BIOS) reports 100.05MHz, that just might be 100.00MHz in reality (the hardware).
> 
> Just maybe setting it to 100.05MHz in the software overcomes some weird droop. I'm totally talking out of my ass, haha, but it makes me feel better about oddities like this.
> 
> ~Ibrahim~


Not sure why your experiencing the bclk fluctuation. I'm pretty sure mine does not change at all from what is set in bios, and I've not done anything special to keep it at its set value. I'll take a closer look at it tonight and post back if I see anything to the contrary.


----------



## scribby

For what it's worth, my BCLK will never stick to 100 either. I manually set it to 100.00, but it still deviates a bit. I thought it might be a Sandy Bridge on z77x issue or something. I'd like to solve it if I can, not a deal-breaker, just a little bit annoying. No overclocking or anything right now either.

While I'm here, I'd like to also mention that I had to flash back to F14 from F16 on my UD5H. I enjoyed the new features on F16, but every so often my system wouldn't fully wake from sleep (computer running, but a unresponsive black screen). I'd have to do a hard shut-down, and then on startup the BIOS would do some sort of double-boot recovery. Everything would be fine after that, until the next wake-from-sleep problem would happen maybe a week or two later. I have PLL Overvoltage disabled, which seemed to solve sleep problems for my Sandy Bridge processor in earlier BIOS versions. Anyways, I went back to F14 and everything is working fine. I figure maybe it's a Sandy Bridge problem once again?


----------



## Arclite

****USB Question*****

I have my mouse and my keyboard both connected to the 2.0 ports on the backplate. In device manager, both are routed like this :::USB controller - USB root hub - Generic Hub with single TT - Generic Hub with Multiple TTS - Generic hub with single TT - composite device etc..

The first generic hub with a single TT has 3 usb composite devices listed on the advanced page
The second hub with multi TTs has no devices listed
the third hub with a single TT has 2 usb composite devices listed

I know that the single TT hubs are bottlenecks, on other mobos I have had I was able to plug into different ports until my input devices were either on separate hubs with single or multiple TT's, or directly connected to the root hub, or at least they were both on one hub with multiple TTs. I have never had a mobo that routed the input devices thru 3 generic hubs and a root hub like this. And the hub with multi TTs is sandwiched between two hubs with single TTs. My DPC latency idles around 10, but jumps to 1000 when I move the mouse.

I have tried all the usb ports and the connection to the controller is always the same. I admit my knowledge of translation translators is very limited. I know that single TT hubs are cheaper, and they are bottlenecks, and I know that on other mobos I have owned that some of the usb ports would be routed thru just the USB root hub, or possibly the USB root hub and ONE generic hub with Multi TTs. And when I connected my input devices to those ports, I didnt get DPC spikes when I moved the mouse, the dpc latency didnt change at all in fact it was steady at about 7-10.

Does anyone have any insight into this issue? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Anoxy

Welp, I think this pile of crap UD5H has finally died on me. Just came back from a short week long vacation and my system was completely powered off the entire time. Now it won't even turn on. I messaged gigabyte customer support about a replacement, so hopefully that is taken care of quickly because I'm computerless until it arrives and I can rebuild my system.


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Welp, I think this pile of crap UD5H has finally died on me. Just came back from a short week long vacation and my system was completely powered off the entire time. Now it won't even turn on. I messaged gigabyte customer support about a replacement, so hopefully that is taken care of quickly because I'm computerless until it arrives and I can rebuild my system.


That's poop.







Did you try reseating the connectors (24-pin and 8-pin CPU specifically)? Both my ASUS LGA 775 board (off for three months) and my friend's Gigabyte LGA 1155 motherboard (not sure how long it was turned off) wouldn't boot after an extended period off until those two connectors were reseated...

But, the board could be dead, too. Just an idea.

~Ibrahim~


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah, I tried that, thanks for the suggestion =\

I guess the little 2032 battery could be dead? But I think that's unlikely.

Either way, I decided to have a new Asus Sabertooth board shipped next day air so I can get my computer up and running. I'll probably just sell the UD5H if they replace/fix it. Asus has never failed me before, and lots of people have hackintoshed it successfully so I guess we'll see how it goes.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I tried that, thanks for the suggestion =\
> 
> I guess the little 2032 battery could be dead? But I think that's unlikely.
> 
> Either way, I decided to have a new Asus Sabertooth board shipped next day air so I can get my computer up and running. I'll probably just sell the UD5H if they replace/fix it. Asus has never failed me before, and lots of people have hackintoshed it successfully so I guess we'll see how it goes.


Sorry to hear that, hope you enjoy your Sabertooth though.


----------



## Anoxy

I know this isn't entirely relevant to the thread, but I just wanted to update and say I feel kinda dumb. I got my Sabertooth installed and everything in place and it still won't turn on. So it must be the power supply. Which is crazy because it's a brand new corsair ax860, purchased at the end of July


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I know this isn't entirely relevant to the thread, but I just wanted to update and say I feel kinda dumb. I got my Sabertooth installed and everything in place and it still won't turn on. So it must be the power supply. Which is crazy because it's a brand new corsair ax860, purchased at the end of July


Ugh! That just plain sux!


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I know this isn't entirely relevant to the thread, but I just wanted to update and say I feel kinda dumb. I got my Sabertooth installed and everything in place and it still won't turn on. So it must be the power supply. Which is crazy because it's a brand new corsair ax860, purchased at the end of July


would this be a AX860i by chance?

if so, you might want to google ax860i random shutdown


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*
> 
> would this be a AX860i by chance?
> 
> if so, you might want to google ax860i random shutdown


It's the non-i version, which is a Seasonic platform I believe. I tried the 'ol paper clip and fan test to see if it would work, but nothing. So I'm fairly sure it's dead. I requested an RMA from corsair today so hopefully that gets here fast. Sucks not having my computer









EDIT: woooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww I just googled by chance to see if anyone had similar issues. Somebody mentioned that they solved the issue by using the cables that came with the PSU rather than Corsair's custom sleeved cables.

YEP, THAT'S RIGHT. IT WAS THE CABLES. ALL ALONG. Bought a new motherboard, RMA'd my PSU, and it ends up being because of Corsair's crappy custom sleeved cables -_-

I am so disappointed right now. Hopefully Corsair lets me send these cables back, because that's just ridiculous on their part.


----------



## wickedout

Hi everyone. New to this thread only because my z77x-GA-UP5TH took a dump on me last week, Not very happy about it either. So I pulled the trigger on another GB mobo with the z77x-GA-UD5H to hold me over until they fix my mobo or replace it. So will I be as happy as I was with my UP5TH? How does this board compare to my old UP5TH?

So I'll be reading up on how this mobo does and how good the OC'ing is and how it games when some the new games arrive in October.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> It's the non-i version, which is a Seasonic platform I believe. I tried the 'ol paper clip and fan test to see if it would work, but nothing. So I'm fairly sure it's dead. I requested an RMA from corsair today so hopefully that gets here fast. Sucks not having my computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: woooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww I just googled by chance to see if anyone had similar issues. Somebody mentioned that they solved the issue by using the cables that came with the PSU rather than Corsair's custom sleeved cables.
> 
> YEP, THAT'S RIGHT. IT WAS THE CABLES. ALL ALONG. Bought a new motherboard, RMA'd my PSU, and it ends up being because of Corsair's crappy custom sleeved cables -_-
> 
> I am so disappointed right now. Hopefully Corsair lets me send these cables back, because that's just ridiculous on their part.


wow..... good find.. hard to imagine that the custom cables caused this... never the less good find for sure. glad it's kinda sorted..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Hi everyone. New to this thread only because my z77x-GA-UP5TH took a dump on me last week, Not very happy about it either. So I pulled the trigger on another GB mobo with the z77x-GA-UD5H to hold me over until they fix my mobo or replace it. So will I be as happy as I was with my UP5TH? How does this board compare to my old UP5TH?
> 
> So I'll be reading up on how this mobo does and how good the OC'ing is and how it games when some the new games arrive in October.


The UD5H is an amazing board and so is the UP5 TH. Having had both they compare to each other well. A slight edge would go to the UP5 TH for obvious reasons of Thunder Bolt and the T-Topology on the UP5 TH was newer than the UD5H which yielded better memory overclocking which can be found here in a few places by Bullant and his amazing efficiency with the UP5 TH. Clocks for clocks they are pretty equal I'd say.


----------



## npolite

Hi All,

I'm having issues resuming from sleep on my GA-Z77X-D3H. I usually get a black screen and have to reset the computer. This started in Windows 7 and has now happening in Windows 8. So in the attempt to fix this, I ran Windows update and updated the USB 3.0 (Intel via WIndows update, Via from their site), the Audio from Via's website, the Atheros LAN driver from Qualcom, and updated the Intel Storage Manager. Well this made things worse. Now when I shutdown I am getting not clicking sounds but 3-4 humming sounds before the system powers off. I also hear my KVM clicking on and off so it appears that it could be the PSU trying to power on and off but unable to fully shut down. I think that somehow the Intel Storage Manager update started causing this latest issue so I am going to remove and install the older version first.

Has anyone had issues with this before?

Edit: Installing the Gigabyte older version of the Intel storage manager has fixed my shutdown issue. It downgraded from 12.8.0.1016 to 11.6.0.1030 for the Server Express Chipset SATA Raid controller.

I am almost certain that this is what is causing my sleep issues as well. I may need to reach out to Gigabyte on this.


----------



## wickedout

What BIOS are you guy's using for your UD5H?


----------



## DeXel

F16 mod from Tweaktown.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> F16 mod from Tweaktown.


Hey DeXel. My UP5TH took a dump on me last week. So I bought this one as a replacement. Sending out my UP5TH tomorrow to GB via RMA. I'm so pissed about that board coming apart on me. It's sad.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Hey DeXel. My UP5TH took a dump on me last week. So I bought this one as a replacement. Sending out my UP5TH tomorrow to GB via RMA. I'm so pissed about that board coming apart on me. It's sad.


Seriously hope my UP5 TH will be fine, it's a premium Z77 that I had high expectations and hopes for. I wonder if I should have bought the MVF.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Seriously hope my UP5 TH will be fine, it's a premium Z77 that I had high expectations and hopes for. I wonder if I should have bought the MVF.


That board is very fragile if you ask me. I'm disappointed in GB's quality. Hopefully that will change soon. So far the UD5H is doing fine. Just not the UP5TH is all. Hopefully you board stays ok.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> That board is very fragile if you ask me. I'm disappointed in GB's quality. Hopefully that will change soon. So far the UD5H is doing fine. Just not the UP5TH is all. Hopefully you board stays ok.


Mine doesn't seem very fragile, and I really like the simple looks it has. Plus I need thunderbolt.


----------



## scribby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> What BIOS are you guy's using for your UD5H?


I've had rock-solid results with the official F14, haven't really tried much heavy overclocking on it though. F16 has some new features (fast boot, Win 8 options, etc) and for the most part was solid as well. I was having random wake-from-sleep issues with F16 though, so I went back to the trusty F14. It's worth noting that I'm using a Sandy Bridge processor though, so your results may vary.

My UD5H has been a great board from day one. Minus a few little things here and there that were all beta BIOS related, I've had pretty much zero real problems.


----------



## wickedout

I just think I got a fluke board! I just want a replacement. When I get that replacement I'll pull out this UD5H! Honestly I like my UD5H. It's a real solid board and I like it. Might just keep it in there. Who knows?


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scribby*
> 
> I've had rock-solid results with the official F14, haven't really tried much heavy overclocking on it though. F16 has some new features (fast boot, Win 8 options, etc) and for the most part was solid as well. I was having random wake-from-sleep issues with F16 though, so I went back to the trusty F14. It's worth noting that I'm using a Sandy Bridge processor though, so your results may vary.
> 
> My UD5H has been a great board from day one. Minus a few little things here and there that were all beta BIOS related, I've had pretty much zero real problems.


My UD5H came with F14! I'll run that BIOS for now. Seems really solid as I've been doing some CPU stress test. I'll keep that one for now. Loving this board by the way!


----------



## wickedout

Hi there! Quick question in regards to my Virtu MVP Software. I can't find anywhere in my BIOS to that enables my intergrated graphics from my CPU like I had with my UP5TH. What is missing or what I'm I not seeing in the BIOS to make my Virtu work like before? Thanks!


----------



## wickedout

Figured it out! Solved!


----------



## npolite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *npolite*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm having issues resuming from sleep on my GA-Z77X-D3H. I usually get a black screen and have to reset the computer. This started in Windows 7 and has now happening in Windows 8. So in the attempt to fix this, I ran Windows update and updated the USB 3.0 (Intel via WIndows update, Via from their site), the Audio from Via's website, the Atheros LAN driver from Qualcom, and updated the Intel Storage Manager. Well this made things worse. Now when I shutdown I am getting not clicking sounds but 3-4 humming sounds before the system powers off. I also hear my KVM clicking on and off so it appears that it could be the PSU trying to power on and off but unable to fully shut down. I think that somehow the Intel Storage Manager update started causing this latest issue so I am going to remove and install the older version first.
> 
> Has anyone had issues with this before?
> 
> Edit: Installing the Gigabyte older version of the Intel storage manager has fixed my shutdown issue. It downgraded from 12.8.0.1016 to 11.6.0.1030 for the Server Express Chipset SATA Raid controller.
> 
> I am almost certain that this is what is causing my sleep issues as well. I may need to reach out to Gigabyte on this.


Just an update to my issue. I downgraded to version 11.7.0.1013 of the Intel Rapid storage manager which is one version behind the current one offered by Intel but was the latest version of the 11 branch. This has fixed my sleep issue and I haven't hit the issue in over a week. In case this helps anyone else.


----------



## Mr357

Has anyone else had as much trouble with the LLC on the UD3H (rev 1.1) as I have? All of the options up to "High" do little to nothing, resulting in a lot of Vdroop, but "Turbo" and "Extreme" send my Vcore out of control. I'm on the F18 BIOS, and most people I've seen are on F17, so is that perhaps it? I also noticed that there is now a rev 1.2; it would be sweet if I could RMA and get one of those.



This is what happens when I'm simply running stock settings of 3.5GHz and 1.2V (I'm on Sandy, not Ivy, as the picture shows) with LLC on Extreme. "Turbo" isn't quite as bad, but still unacceptable in my book, as the Vcore still repeatedly spikes despite consistent load.


----------



## deepor

That's just the highest resolution that sensor can report. It might be shown as three digits after decimal point, but it really isn't 0.001 resolution. It's more like 0.015 steps or something. I'd guess the numbers look so weird because of conversion from binary to decimal system.

Try the program HWINFO and look at its sensor window. It will show a bunch of other sensors. One of them will be the VRM that outputs the voltage for the CPU cores. It will show exactly what you've set in the BIOS if you use LLC on Turbo. It will be rock solid, no changes, totally flat voltage, no matter if it's idle or prime95 or linpack running. The VCore reading from the main sensor will still jump around some.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> That's just the highest resolution that sensor can report. It might be shown as three digits after decimal point, but it really isn't 0.001 resolution. It's more like 0.015 steps or something. I'd guess the numbers look so weird because of conversion from binary to decimal system.
> 
> Try the program HWINFO and look at its sensor window. It will show a bunch of other sensors. One of them will be the VRM that outputs the voltage for the CPU cores. It will show exactly what you've set in the BIOS if you use LLC on Turbo. It will be rock solid, no changes, totally flat voltage, no matter if it's idle or prime95 or linpack running. The VCore reading from the main sensor will still jump around some.


I'll try that, but even better would be to simply check it with a multimeter. I'll do both.

EDIT: I don't know what I did, but suddenly it's working perfectly just like you said. Readouts from OCCT, HWMonitor, HWInfo, and my multimeter were all exactly the same in idle and while running Prime. No Vdroop or extra volts whatsoever. I'm going to start overclocking and hope it stays that way.

EDIT2: From now on I will only go by multimeter readings, and "average" readings. These boards go by increments of .005 when adjusting voltages, but software goes by increments of .012. The fluctuation I had been seeing was the software switching between increments it was used to whenever the actual Vcore would change by merely .001V. Thankfully, HWInfo gives an "average Vcore" readout which actually goes by .001 increments, so I don't necessarily have to pull out my meter to check voltages.


----------



## Alvarez

Hello guys

I recently have troubles wıth mouse and keyboard... After a whıle both mouse and keyboards stop respondıng, sınce ı have ıllumınated keyboard ı see that ıts flashıng, ıt looks lıke ıts not connected properly..

ım wrıtın thıs from another keyboard but connected from front hub of the case, not usıng ıo panel

the board ıs gıgabyte z77 ud5 rev1.0


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> I recently have troubles wıth mouse and keyboard... After a whıle both mouse and keyboards stop respondıng, sınce ı have ıllumınated keyboard ı see that ıts flashıng, ıt looks lıke ıts not connected properly..
> 
> ım wrıtın thıs from another keyboard but connected from front hub of the case, not usıng ıo panel
> 
> the board ıs gıgabyte z77 ud5 rev1.0


You should only plug mouse + keyboard into the top 2 ports on the back of the case because those are the only USB 2.0 ports, the other 4 are USB 3.0 and mice don't work properly in them.

I also wrote a guide dealing with mice and BIOS settings for UD5H here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1433882/gaming-and-mouse-response-bios-optimization-guide-for-modern-pc-hardware-2013-r0ach-edition


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Hello - I am at a loss - it seems I am searching incorrectly (Google and here). I am looking to disable the boost feature on the z77x-ud5h. I want the bclk to be locked at 100.00MHz and not fluctuate. I know I did this before, but I can't for the life of me remember how. The reason is that my GTX 660 FTW Sig2 doesn't get along well with the slight bump of the bclk. (picky, picky, picky). Any help appreciated!!


For some reason on F14 BIOS, if you set BCLK to AUTO or 100.00, you get 100.10 in your OS. If you set BCLK to 100.01, you get 100.03 in the OS. You can give that a try. The UD5H is a buggy as hell board and they need to add an option to disable spread spectrum too.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> For some reason on F14 BIOS, if you set BCLK to AUTO or 100.00, you get 100.10 in your OS. If you set BCLK to 100.01, you get 100.03 in the OS. You can give that a try. The UD5H is a buggy as hell board and they need to add an option to disable spread spectrum too.


UP5 TH has this issue as well, quite annoying.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> UP5 TH has this issue as well, quite annoying.


I think they do it to try and cheat in benchmarks.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> UP5 TH has this issue as well, quite annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> I think they do it to try and cheat in benchmarks.
Click to expand...

Cheat in benchmarks? by having the BCLK not match 100% to what it says? What do they stand to gain by having a .3 variance?


----------



## deepor

It's for motherboard reviews. The reviews use benchmarks and compare with other Z77 boards like that. I would assume this works on confused people.


----------



## Jack Mac

Wish it could be disabled, I want a flat 100.


----------



## dougb62

Me too!


----------



## Jack Mac

Do the sketchy tweaktown (sounds like slang for a place where you could buy drugs) fix the BLCK issue?


----------



## frag85

Its just simple variance in the clocks. Every board I have owned or worked on in the past 15 years since I started OC'ing has been like this. Its never an exact match, and can be different from board to board of the same model. Fluctuations in voltage (in or out from the PSU and how the mobo handles what it's getting from the PSU) have an effect on it. I'd compare it to a car motor. Its rated at 300BHP, but from the factory some will be 295, 305, 320, 280bhp. There's always a slight difference between each one. With motherboard BIOS' this can be tuned out to some degree but I'd suspect it wouldn't effect each board the same (its the same with voltages BTW, 1.5b in the bios does not mean the components, or what windows reads is really 1.5v. If it works, and isn't killing your board after a couple months, why worry about it?


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Its just simple variance in the clocks.


Not true. Part of it is due to not being able to disable spread spectrum. The other part is they do it on purpose because they want to cheat in benchmarks on motherboard review sites and score 1% faster.

If your theory was correct that it was just "variance", then my findings of being able to set BCLK to 100.01 gets you 100.03 in Windows, while leaving it on AUTO or 100.00 gets you 100.10.

That's either a bug, or Gigabyte trying to force you to slightly overclock BCLK on purpose.


----------



## dougb62

@frag85: Did anyone say they were _*worried*_? Nope. Just said we'd prefer it to be more accurately configurable. Some people (like me) have issues with small timing discrepancies playing funny games with hardware (my EVGA 66FTW Sig2 doesn't like it much - don't know why), I know it shouldn't matter, because it's such a miniscule amount, but sometimes it does. I have heard of issues with USB 3.0 and timings. Your PCIE bus slots are directly affected by bclk. Then there's the person who just wants to have complete control of everything going on in their rig, (like me), and this is uncontrollable, so it just peeves us. OC'ing is, after all, about having complete, minute, control - so you get a lot of "OCD" in here. I have it in regards to my rig. I don't have it in any other aspect of life - but with this, yes. _*Worried?*_ No. _*Ticked off a bit?*_ You bet!!

Code:



Code:


</rant>


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Do the sketchy tweaktown (sounds like slang for a place where you could buy drugs) fix the BLCK issue?


It was indeed different and fixed in the latest beta version for my board, GA-Z77X-D3H. One of those beta versions is also on the Gigabyte website, because it does have things for Windows 8 like "SecureBoot", which is missing in the latest stable version. Maybe see if it's the same for you. Then you won't have to download from tweaktown forums.

Just to be clear what I'm talking about, I'm currently on the latest stable version and that one does not want to set a flat 100 and looks like this in HWINFO:



With the latest beta version, it was 100.0 for BCLK, not 100.3. The end result for core clock looked a bit ugly with the 100.0 BCLK. If I wanted to run for example 4.6 GHz, it would end up looking something like 4598 MHz instead of 4600+.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> It was indeed different and fixed in the latest beta version for my board, GA-Z77X-D3H. One of those beta versions is also on the Gigabyte website, because it does have things for Windows 8 like "SecureBoot", which is missing in the latest stable version. Maybe see if it's the same for you. Then you won't have to download from tweaktown forums.
> 
> Just to be clear what I'm talking about, I'm currently on the latest stable version and that one does not want to set a flat 100 and looks like this in HWINFO:
> 
> 
> 
> With the latest beta version, it was 100.0 for BCLK, not 100.3. The end result for core clock looked a bit ugly with the 100.0 BCLK. If I wanted to run for example 4.6 GHz, it would end up looking something lik
> e 4598 MHz instead of 4600+.


Guess I will flash to the latest beta bios on the GB website.


----------



## Vario

Hi guys, I can't get this ram to work with my motherboard. Is there a solution?

Specs:
i7 3770k stock
Gigabyte Z77XUD3H
Gigabyte 7970 OC 3GB stock
Ram: 4x4 of MV-3V4G3D/US Samsung 30nm Greens
PSU: PCP&C/Seasonic 600 Watt
OS: Win7Pro 64

Ram all memtests perfectly in 3 computers I have tried. It works perfect in my Asrock Z77E ITX but it cannot run in my GA Z77X-UD3H. Symptoms are inconsistent boot loops, failure to overclock or underclock or change timings or allow any adjustment of ram without complete destabilization. Processor has been reverted to stock. I have tested a Xeon 1230v2 in same board with ram and same conclusion. I own 7 modules of this ram and it all does it. All 7 dimms have been memtested for hours no problems with the latest 5.0 memtest usb boot. I am getting random BSODS. System will fail to post and loops 15/51 codes I think. Only modes I can get to work are 1600 11 11 28 which BSODS and 2000 mhz 10 10 10 28 1.5v which randomly doesn't boot/boot loops. It also likes to default to 1600 7-13-13-38 or something like that which is not JEDEC.

Put in my Kingston Hyper X Blacks 2x8 16gb and no problems. I know its the ram because it happens specifically with this ram only. The plan was to upgrade to this memory and sell my Blacks.

I have tried bios's f16, f18, f19e.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I like this motherboard and do not want to go back to Asus.


----------



## DaClownie

Also, many boards a while back had issues with 100.0 BCLKs for stability purposes. Most recommended 100.3 or 100.9 to get stability. Was just a weird glitch. Still failing to see the big deal.

That being said, I've had my UD5H for a while now, and it works great. Still running an old BIOS on it too... F6 or something I think lol


----------



## Jack Mac

Gigabyte has solid boards with mediocre BIOSes, at least compared to ASUS. Wish they fixed it.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Gigabyte has solid boards with mediocre BIOSes, at least compared to ASUS. Wish they fixed it.


Agreed. Still lovin' my UD5H. (Course, I've only had it since early June, but still.) Just want a couple improvements.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Gigabyte has solid boards with mediocre BIOSes, at least compared to ASUS. Wish they fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Still lovin' my UD5H. (Course, I've only had it since early June, but still.) Just want a couple improvements.
Click to expand...

I have more issues with the Realtek onboard audio than anything else. lol


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> Hi guys, I can't get this ram to work with my motherboard. Is there a solution?
> 
> Specs:
> i7 3770k stock
> Gigabyte Z77XUD3H
> Gigabyte 7970 OC 3GB stock
> Ram: 4x4 of MV-3V4G3D/US Samsung 30nm Greens
> PSU: PCP&C/Seasonic 600 Watt
> OS: Win7Pro 64
> 
> Ram all memtests perfectly in 3 computers I have tried. It works perfect in my Asrock Z77E ITX but it cannot run in my GA Z77X-UD3H. Symptoms are inconsistent boot loops, failure to overclock or underclock or change timings or allow any adjustment of ram without complete destabilization. Processor has been reverted to stock. I have tested a Xeon 1230v2 in same board with ram and same conclusion. I own 7 modules of this ram and it all does it. All 7 dimms have been memtested for hours no problems with the latest 5.0 memtest usb boot. I am getting random BSODS. System will fail to post and loops 15/51 codes I think. Only modes I can get to work are 1600 11 11 28 which BSODS and 2000 mhz 10 10 10 28 1.5v which randomly doesn't boot/boot loops. It also likes to default to 1600 7-13-13-38 or something like that which is not JEDEC.
> 
> Put in my Kingston Hyper X Blacks 2x8 16gb and no problems. I know its the ram because it happens specifically with this ram only. The plan was to upgrade to this memory and sell my Blacks.
> 
> I have tried bios's f16, f18, f19e.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. I like this motherboard and do not want to go back to Asus.


When you go to the screen with the manual RAM timings, scroll down to the bottom. There are "slew rate" options. Those will fix your problem, though I don't know what to choose. It was mentioned somewhere in this thread a whole bunch of pages in the past.

I found this with Google:
Quote:


> My Team 2600 (Samsung IC) in Auto...unstable,
> slew rate 1,2.........no boot
> slew rate 3..........rock solid,allowed me to run [email protected] (LinX 20 passes).
> slew rate 4.....solid but not stable.
> Of course other (memory) setting must be adjusted as well.


Those slew rate settings do not exist in older BIOS versions. I think this includes the latest stable version. The F19e version you mentioned should have the settings.

If your F19e BIOS does not have it, use one of the newer beta versions. For this, go here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I have more issues with the Realtek onboard audio than anything else. lol


Yeah - Realtek anything can be a pain. Maybe they should team up with SB... well that would probably just be a different headache.


----------



## wickedout

For me personally! I went from a UP5 to the UD5H! My UP5 PCI express dimm slot came out of it holes. But Gigabyte replaced it for me and now I have an extra mobo in my PC closet. I'm not changing it out either. I'm pretty happy with my UD5H now. It's very solid and easy to overclock. The UP5 was buggy to me. Just didn't seem to overclock all that easy as my UD5H can. Just my .02 cents!


----------



## Rar4f

In my region GIGABYTE G1.SNIPER 3 Z77 S-1155 EATX IVY has been lowered from $491 to $224.

How good is the motherboard out of curiosity? I love the green colour


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> In my region GIGABYTE G1.SNIPER 3 Z77 S-1155 EATX IVY has been lowered from $491 to $224.
> 
> How good is the motherboard out of curiosity? I love the green colour


For that price it's an excellent board! Get it if you can! You'll love it! I think Sin was using it for awhile and really liked it.


----------



## r0ach

Been testing a lot of UD5H BIOS yesterday. I would not use F16 under any circumstance. It has some weird feeling to the mouse like it's smoother, but laggier. It feels like the input is severely buffered or something. They clearly made huge changes in how USB functions between F14 and F16. I'm sitting on F14 for now with 2500k + UD5H.


----------



## Koniakki

Ok guys my patience is over. I had enough. 4+ months of nothing but nightmares with it but I called it a day a few days ago. I gave them the benefit of doubt and I waited and waited but its over.

I'm talking about my Z77-UD5H rev1.1 problems and inability to Post after a cold boot. It takes from 15-30+ reboots to post IF it posts at ALL and sometimes between 5-30+minutes IF it posts at all.

My problem is similar to the videos below. Not to mention the USB 3 problems I also had. When it booted it worked fine. But now it doesn't boot at all and I'm all out of patience to wait for it. I shouldn't have going through all this anyway.

Thankfully I still had my previous Z77 UD3H around waiting to be sold, so couple days ago I took the UD5H out and put the UD3H in. Voila! All working great. No problems. Such a relief to be problem free after so many months.

Back to my problem. I tried bios from F13 to F16 all stock, I tried different RAM's, different PSU's, tried the bclk from 100.1-102. Nothing, always refuses to boot. Clearing/resetting CMOS does nothing. I'm just welcomed with the choose defaults and boot when and IF it boots.

I'm also really disappointed with my first experience with GB support. I contacted them through GB support ticket and basically the GB Rep point the finger to the Shop I bought it and that I should contact them.

Well hey there, as I already had mentioned them and even include the Shop's response, I already contacted the shop before the support ticket and their response was to contact GB! What the hell? They think this is a game?

I'm busting my *** at work to buy things from them and they basically telling they don't care? I don't accept that from GB. And in the shop's response I included(the one below) in the support ticket the shop clearly says to contact GB since they do not own repair facilities.

I'm not willing to accept that response to just throw a 200euros worth of motherboard. All in all I expected better from GB's support. A lot better.

I'm going to start a new thread on this and I have also recorded a few videos of my problems with it. I don't really want to give GB a bad image by going around and posting videos and talking bad but I had enough.

Any advises how to proceed? I want my damn motherboard checked out and replaced. I didn't bought to use it a a large newspaper weight.

Shop's response:
"In case of warranty, you can contact either us or the manufacturer of the respective service partners.
The direct route through the service partner of the manufacturer is the shortest, since we do not own repair facilities and also turn to the manufacturer support. "

No post YTube videos:


----------



## DeXel

Yea that board needs RMA.

Which country's RMA department are we talking about? In the US, you just create a ticked through automated system and send in your board.


----------



## wickedout

I have exact same board as you. Mine booted up without any issues. Just RMA that thing and get it replaced.


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Yea that board needs RMA.
> 
> Which country's RMA department are we talking about? In the US, you just create a ticked through automated system and send in your board.


I'm in the EU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I have exact same board as you. Mine booted up without any issues. Just RMA that thing and get it replaced.


I'm trying to RMA it but GB basically is refusing to straight up RMA it and points the finger to the seller shop which already said me to contact GB directly as I already said.

Really disappointed in this. I had higher hopes and respect for GB so far.

Its basically like this. Well, almost. And that's unacceptable. I don't understand why GB is acting up. they sell them things, they should support them.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I have exact same board as you. Mine booted up without any issues. Just RMA that thing and get it replaced.


Same here - and I agree.

Try posting here, if you haven't already:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/ There are company reps there, and if you kick up a stink, you might get some actual help.

Good luck!


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Same here - and I agree.
> 
> Try posting here, if you haven't already:
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/ There are company reps there, and if you kick up a stink, you might get some actual help.
> 
> Good luck!


I forgot to say that the boot/post problem was the same from day one. The motherboard was BNIB. And it had the problem from day 1 as I mentioned.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Same here - and I agree.
> 
> Try posting here, if you haven't already:
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/ There are company reps there, and if you kick up a stink, you might get some actual help.
> 
> Good luck!


For me I had a UP5 that a manufacturing defect. And here in the USA GB took care of me. He's in EU so I have no clue why they aren't helping him. I'd put up a stink to. Hopefully he gets everything worked out and contacts the correct people. What's up with the GB EU support? And good luck!


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Same here - and I agree.
> 
> Try posting here, if you haven't already:
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/ There are company reps there, and if you kick up a stink, you might get some actual help.
> 
> Good luck!


Done. I dont like running around bashing companies and complaining like that but this is my last resort. I can't just throw product I paid good money for them. No sir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> For me I had a UP5 that a manufacturing defect. And here in the USA GB took care of me. He's EU so I have no clue why they aren't helping him. I'd put up a stink to. Hopefully he gets everything worked out and contacts the correct people. What's up with the GB EU support? And good luck!


Idk either. I expected better response from them. I don't see how hard is for them to just arrange an RMA ticket and have me send the board in. As I clearly described them, is a faulty motherboard.

Well I'm not going to go away from this. This is not how you treat customers and GB owners.


----------



## deepor

It's the shop's fault. That's how it is where I'm from in the EU. There's regulation a commercial seller has to guarantee the product works. That's not for the manufacturer. The shop has to take care of you. That warranty is for two years. For the first six months, the burden of proof is not on you, it's on them. Manufacturers usually don't deal with consumers unless it's about warranty after two years.


----------



## homestyle

Any point flashing my bios from f9 to f18 or beta bios?

I'm on z77 ud3h


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> Any point flashing my bios from f9 to f18 or beta bios?
> 
> I'm on z77 ud3h


Don't bother if you're not having any issues.


----------



## rsvette12

Had nothing but issues with the latest beta bios, use the latest regular bios


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> Any point flashing my bios from f9 to f18 or beta bios?
> 
> I'm on z77 ud3h


I'm currently using BIOS F15q and haven't had any real issues. I have the UD5H!


----------



## r0ach

F14 is better. They did something bizarre with the USB in F15/F16 and it feels super buffered.


----------



## arrow0309

How do you guys think is better keeping the C3/C6 states on our Gigabyte X77X series?
Assuming I'm in fixed vcore (1.26 for the 4.6ghz), Extreme LLC, ram at their 2400 Xmp's and with both C1e and Eist enabled.
Cause I'm hearing different opinions about that, differing from one mainboard productor to another


----------



## newt111

I'm having issues with my Z77-D3H. I set the ram speed to 1866mhz but it's not sticking. Am I missing something obvious? 1800 doesn't work either.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## deepor

I often had that problem. The BIOS sometimes bugs out and settings get stuck. It can be fixed by loading optimized defaults and restarting. There might be a better way, but I don't know it.


----------



## DeXel

Did you try setting XMP? From your screenshots, you used memory multiplier, but in that case you also need to set timings and voltage manually, and if you didn't, that's your issue.

Otherwise try a different BIOS, like BETAs from TweakTown forums.


----------



## newt111

XMP is rated for 1600, I turned it off to see if that was causing my issues
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> I often had that problem. The BIOS sometimes bugs out and settings get stuck. It can be fixed by loading optimized defaults and restarting. There might be a better way, but I don't know it.


Yeah, I had this idea while doing dishes. Going to try it now


----------



## Koniakki

About *17,000 reboots* in about 3 days..... I don't know if I must laugh or cry tbh....

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/54644-gb-z77x-ud5h-rev1-1-post-boot-problems.html#post469100

*P.S:* And I got 9TB worth HDD's on my system. If anything gets damaged/failed because of this Gigabyte nightmare of a motherboard........


----------



## newt111

Optimized defaults didn't work. I set them, and only changed the memory multiplier and still nothing. Looks like I'll be going beta


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newt111*
> 
> XMP is rated for 1600, I turned it off to see if that was causing my issues


In that case, maybe your RAM doesn't like the overclock. Relax timings as much as you can and increase DRAM voltage.


----------



## newt111

I tried to underclock to 1333, and still a no go. Still reads 1600 in bios and cpuz. Don't think it's my ram, I think it's the board


----------



## DeXel

It's not the board, it's BIOS bug. Flash another BIOS.


----------



## newt111

Bios bug = board









as in it's not the ram....

So should I revert to F18, which is a year old, or try F22 beta? (using F21 now)


----------



## DeXel

I like to keep hardware and software separate. I would try BETA first. Latest BETAs are pretty good.


----------



## newt111

F22b did the trick. Thanks!


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koniakki*
> 
> About *17,000 reboots* in about 3 days..... I don't know if I must laugh or cry tbh....
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/54644-gb-z77x-ud5h-rev1-1-post-boot-problems.html#post469100
> 
> *P.S:* And I got 9TB worth HDD's on my system. If anything gets damaged/failed because of this Gigabyte nightmare of a motherboard........


I will add again that when it boots its working fine(if I'm lucky and the usb devices are recognized)....

Whats really bothering is not just the failing to post. Is that as I said when it does its working fine(I'm on it since yesterday).

Any motherboard experts/technicians around her? Its a mosfet or something that's failing to boot it and it takes hours to boot if it boots at all?


----------



## Vitaminx

I have the GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UP5 TH motherboard and am currently wondering if I have to adjust any settings in the BIOS in order to use the DVI port on the motherboard. Currently, I'm using the SAPPHIRE HD 7970 3GB GDDR5 OC with Boost as my graphics display for the moment. Is it possible to leave the video card plugged into the motherboard and use the onboard graphics DVI port as my main display to my monitor? Because I tried this and I just got a black screen on my monitor, nothing displayed. So I’m not sure if I have to unplug the video card and then try plugging the cable into the DVI port on the motherboard, or if I have to change settings in the BIOS as well to get the monitor to display correctly through the onboard graphics. The reason I'm asking is because I'm sending out this video card for repair/replacement due to screen flickering issues.


----------



## deepor

You have to put it on "enabled" instead of "auto" in the BIOS. The default auto setting will disable integrated graphics when a graphics card is detected.

To check if your integrated graphics is enabled at this moment, open the device manager and expand "display adapters". It should show both the Intel graphics and the NVIDIA/AMD graphics card.

If both are running, you have to configure your screens in Windows where you also set screen resolution etc.


----------



## Vitaminx

Yeah I just checked device manager and it only showed my AMD graphics card there in display adapter. So then according to what you say, I should be able to go into the BIOS and change the setting from auto to enabled and plug the cable into the DVI port on the motherboard and i should be good to go then. I'll give it a try.


----------



## LDV617

sign me up.



Has been a great board for me so far. Only paid ~$120 for it too so even better.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> Yeah I just checked device manager and it only showed my AMD graphics card there in display adapter. So then according to what you say, I should be able to go into the BIOS and change the setting from auto to enabled and plug the cable into the DVI port on the motherboard and i should be good to go then. I'll give it a try.


Yup. That should work. I've moved my extra monitors to onboard using DVI and HDMI.


----------



## redfaction95

I need a bit of help regarding my setup's stability

gigabyte Z77x ud3h rev1.1
i5-2500k
ram xms3 1600mhz 2x2gb
psu thermaltake 600w litepower
ssd c70 SP 6gb/s 120gb

I just need to know that, everytime when i OC my pc and shut it down, and after powering it up, it just keeps on reposting the bios screen and after 3-7times, it boots up normally 80%....and if not normally, then it says "no boot media present" though everything is fine which i think is a weird connection.
and for the sake of settings..... ram is set to 1600mhx using xmp profile
while for the cpu it is @ 4.0ghz, all cores....rest...all the things are pure stock

and further info:-
when i used to have the asus p8p67 board, i faced totally same prob....
when everything is @stock......all the booting goes ultimate smoothly...


----------



## frag85

redfaction95 - Could just need some Vcore and maybe putting LLC to HIgh. On sandy/ivy bridge thats really all you should need to touch.


----------



## r0ach

Anyone know why when your mouse is stationary while inside the UD5H BIOS, your BCLK says 100.11, then when you move the mouse fast, the BCLCK drops all the way down bouncing from 99.4-99.8?

Just tested it on F14 and F16, same thing on both. The mouse used was a G400 at 800DPI + 1000hz polling rate. It does that polling rate with no driver installed.

CPU-Z doesn't show the same behavior in Windows, but I'm wondering if Gigabyte hasn't set something right that still might be a problem. I'm guessing it might have something to do with spread spectrum too, a setting that you can't turn off in Gigabyte BIOS.

Also, anyone know why Windows does this? (it's win7)


----------



## rintalahri

Why my z77-ud3h 20c mod6 wont boot if csm is disabled?
I must take my gtx680 off from motherboard, then it boot..


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Also, anyone know why Windows does this? (it's win7)


That crazy high number is probably really meant to be -2 and displayed wrong in the program you use. If you write that large number as a 32-bit integer, it's FFFFFFFE in hex (in binary, that's 31 bits being 1 and then one zero at the end). -2 looks the same.

I also have two weird IRQs with negative number. -2 is VIA USB host controller and -3 is Intel HD 4000.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rintalahri*
> 
> Why my z77-ud3h 20c mod6 wont boot if csm is disabled?
> I must take my gtx680 off from motherboard, then it boot..


If you disable CSM, all parts in your PC need to be able to work with UEFI style boot. You have a graphics card with the normal (old) style of graphics card BIOS. You need a graphics card with UEFI GOP. Check if you can get an UEFI GOP BIOS for your graphics card. GTX680 should be able to do it theoretically.


----------



## rintalahri

I thought that the other PCI ROM Priority: oprom is what set the graphics card to boot from UEFI mode
Where can I know the BIOS feature settings, good settings for UEFI ssd (samsung 840 pro) and GTX680?
I dont want oc setting, just want fast boot in windows 8.1


----------



## deepor

You need to look around on the website of the manufacturer of your GTX680 to see if they publicly share a UEFI GOP BIOS for you to flash onto your card. If you can't find anything, they might only give it out privately if you ask their support. Their programmers might also simply not have built a UEFI GOP thingy for your card, then you are out of luck.

I don't know where to find documentation about the Windows 8 related UEFI features of the motherboard's BIOS. I think you just have to read up on general information about UEFI and Windows 8 and then guess what the Gigabyte options probably do.

That PCI oprom is about expansion cards that do things like LAN or WLAN or provide a SATA controller or USB controller.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> redfaction95 - Could just need some Vcore and maybe putting LLC to HIgh. On sandy/ivy bridge thats really all you should need to touch.


Glad, atleast someone replied








So can u tell me that, if i set a custom vcore, then will it stick to that voltage under all load conditions.....? Actually I own this system from 2 years, and i bought it mainly for OC, but due to too high ambient temperature of my city, the system runs hot, so since then i am actually hunting away to get only 4.0ghz stable OC. So long story short, Im a type of noob, and whenever I share this prob, everyone just throws loads of links to tutorials which always disappoint me.....


----------



## redfaction95

Using 212+
23 idle
48 load
So i can manage till all cores @ 4ghz


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> redfaction95 - Could just need some Vcore and maybe putting LLC to HIgh. On sandy/ivy bridge thats really all you should need to touch.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad, atleast someone replied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So can u tell me that, if i set a custom vcore, then will it stick to that voltage under all load conditions.....? Actually I own this system from 2 years, and i bought it mainly for OC, but due to too high ambient temperature of my city, the system runs hot, so since then i am actually hunting away to get only 4.0ghz stable OC. So long story short, Im a type of noob, and whenever I share this prob, everyone just throws loads of links to tutorials which always disappoint me.....
Click to expand...

That setting for VCore voltage, it can be "Auto", "Normal" or an actual voltage number. If you type in a number for vcore voltage, it will always run at that voltage. That's called "fixed voltage" usually.

What you will want to use is "Normal" for vcore. You go to the vcore voltage setting and type "n" and hit Enter. The setting will then show "Normal". This is the voltage the CPU thinks it wants. It can message that number to the outside. This voltage will change all the time for power saving. In monitoring programs, it is called "VID".

To get stability when overclocking, there is a separate offset voltage you can set. This offset voltage will get added to the normal voltage. This is why that style of overclocking is called "offset voltage" usually.

The offset voltage setting is directly beneath the vcore setting in the menu. It is grayed out by default. It will light up when you set vcore to "Normal". The setting is named "DVID" on Gigabyte boards.

About "LLC" and why you have to change it: the board will drop the voltage somewhat under heavy CPU use by default, as that's how it's supposed to work according to Intel's specification. You should disable or reduce that voltage drop to avoid headaches regarding stability when overclocking. To do this, you go into the "3d power" menu and look for the "vcore load line calibration" entry. Put this on "Turbo" for zero drop of voltage under load.

If you use fixed voltage, you should use LLC on "Turbo". If you use offset voltage, you can also try Low, Medium or High. LLC changes the voltage depending on power use. That's exactly when the CPU is the hottest. So if you can't find stability without increasing offset voltage, you can try to reduce max temperatures through going down from "Turbo".


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Using 212+
> 23 idle
> 48 load
> So i can manage till all cores @ 4ghz


Is 48 a coretemp (like read in Realtemp or Coretemp)? Is your load a stressing program like Prime95?

CM 212 is a good cooler and those temps are plenty safe. Keep it under 80C if you want the CPU/mobo to last a few years. If you run a program like HWInfo you'll get a lot more info on what's going on. But with 4Ghz and a coretemp of 48C under a heavy load I don't think you have anything to worry about and can just leave it as is if things are stable.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> That setting for VCore voltage, it can be "Auto", "Normal" or an actual voltage number. If you type in a number for vcore voltage, it will always run at that voltage. That's called "fixed voltage" usually.
> 
> What you will want to use is "Normal" for vcore. You go to the vcore voltage setting and type "n" and hit Enter. The setting will then show "Normal". This is the voltage the CPU thinks it wants. It can message that number to the outside. This voltage will change all the time for power saving. In monitoring programs, it is called "VID".
> 
> To get stability when overclocking, there is a separate offset voltage you can set. This offset voltage will get added to the normal voltage. This is why that style of overclocking is called "offset voltage" usually.
> 
> The offset voltage setting is directly beneath the vcore setting in the menu. It is grayed out by default. It will light up when you set vcore to "Normal". The setting is named "DVID" on Gigabyte boards.
> 
> About "LLC" and why you have to change it: the board will drop the voltage somewhat under heavy CPU use by default, as that's how it's supposed to work according to Intel's specification. You should disable or reduce that voltage drop to avoid headaches regarding stability when overclocking. To do this, you go into the "3d power" menu and look for the "vcore load line calibration" entry. Put this on "Turbo" for zero drop of voltage under load.
> 
> If you use fixed voltage, you should use LLC on "Turbo". If you use offset voltage, you can also try Low, Medium or High. LLC changes the voltage depending on power use. That's exactly when the CPU is the hottest. So if you can't find stability without increasing offset voltage, you can try to reduce max temperatures through going down from "Turbo".


Thanks for that awesomely explained article......
So what settings u recmnd going to 4ghz....i mean what offset voltage if i use it..... And should i leave bclk to 100....i heard it is not good for the health of mobo/cpu


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> Is 48 a coretemp (like read in Realtemp or Coretemp)? Is your load a stressing program like Prime95?
> 
> CM 212 is a good cooler and those temps are plenty safe. Keep it under 80C if you want the CPU/mobo to last a few years. If you run a program like HWInfo you'll get a lot more info on what's going on. But with 4Ghz and a coretemp of 48C under a heavy load I don't think you have anything to worry about and can just leave it as is if things are stable.


I used easytune6 fot the temps and prime95 for load/stress with full load/4cores


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> So what settings u recmnd going to 4ghz....i mean what offset voltage if i use it..... And should i leave bclk to 100....i heard it is not good for the health of mobo/cpu


If you have no reason to, you should not touch BCLK. That value is what's used for connecting the CPU and graphics card and chipset and memory. You risk getting weird stability and data corruption issues.

Set the main multiplier setting to 40. You don't need to change anything in that sub-menu where the turbo boost multipliers and other settings are. You can leave everything on that screen on Auto.

Go to the 3D Power screen. Do this:



Here's an example of the screen with the voltage settings:



I don't remember what multiplier that offset voltage in the screenshot was for. I think it was 44 or 45.

For your 40 multiplier, you will very likely get away with zero offset. 40 is still pretty close to the CPU's normal turbo boost speeds.

If you use offset overclocking, the base value for the vcore calculations of the board are what the CPU itself thinks it wants. The CPU is guaranteed to know its stable voltage values up to its highest turbo boost multiplier. Those values were all set by Intel when your CPU was built and tested.

Those voltage values are unique to your CPU. To see what vcore voltage you will get, you have to check in Windows with some monitoring program. Check out HWINFO and open its sensor window. It shows both VID (that's what the CPU thinks it needs) and the resulting VCore after offset and LLC calculations. You will see VID changing depending on what programs are doing.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> If you have no reason to, you should not touch BCLK. That value is what's used for connecting the CPU and graphics card and chipset and memory. You risk getting weird stability and data corruption issues.
> 
> Set the main multiplier setting to 40. You don't need to change anything in that sub-menu where the turbo boost multipliers and other settings are. You can leave everything on that screen on Auto.
> 
> Go to the 3D Power screen. Do this:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an example of the screen with the voltage settings:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't remember what multiplier that offset voltage in the screenshot was for. I think it was 44 or 45.
> 
> For your 40 multiplier, you will very likely get away with zero offset. 40 is still pretty close to the CPU's normal turbo boost speeds.
> 
> If you use offset overclocking, the base value for the vcore calculations of the board are what the CPU itself thinks it wants. The CPU is guaranteed to know its stable voltage values up to its highest turbo boost multiplier. Those values were all set by Intel when your CPU was built and tested.
> 
> Those voltage values are unique to your CPU. To see what vcore voltage you will get, you have to check in Windows with some monitoring program. Check out HWINFO and open its sensor window. It shows both VID (that's what the CPU thinks it needs) and the resulting VCore after offset and LLC calculations. You will see VID changing depending on what programs are doing.


Ok... Everything done except the multiplyer part. Actually I am confused on how to do it, as u said to leave bclk and turbo ratio on auto/default, but there isn't any option of multiplyer, do u mean the "cpu clock ratio"....? Atm it is at 33....., should i change that to 40....?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Ok... Everything done except the multiplyer part. Actually I am confused on how to do it, as u said to leave bclk and turbo ratio on auto/default, but there isn't any option of multiplyer, do u mean the "cpu clock ratio"....? Atm it is at 33....., should i change that to 40....?


Yes, that's the one. If you put it on 40, it will be 4000 MHz.

That CPU clock ratio setting will actually secretly set the four turbo ratio values to 40. That only works right if you leave those on Auto. That's why you don't have to touch anything in that sub-menu.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> If you have no reason to, you should not touch BCLK. .


Except for some reason, Gigabyte doesn't set BCLK correctly and leaving it on AUTO or 100.00 on my UD5H BIOS gets me 100.11, and setting it to 100.01 gets me 100.03

I would also not currently recommend any BIOS besides F14, because they seemed to have massively overhauled how USB works in F15/F16 BIOS and it feels highly buffered now.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Except for some reason, Gigabyte doesn't set BCLK correctly and leaving it on AUTO or 100.00 on my UD5H BIOS gets me 100.11, and setting it to 100.01 gets me 100.03
> 
> I would also not currently recommend any BIOS besides F14, because they seemed to have massively overhauled how USB works in F15/F16 BIOS and it feels highly buffered now.


Exactly, i noted that BCLK point too........


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Yes, that's the one. If you put it on 40, it will be 4000 MHz.
> 
> That CPU clock ratio setting will actually secretly set the four turbo ratio values to 40. That only works right if you leave those on Auto. That's why you don't have to touch anything in that sub-menu.


Bro.........I followed all your steps, for 3 days the system was working flawlessly but now it again is doing the same thing, it starts, then shuts itself off after 5 seconds....then repeats it until it boots successfully.........


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Bro.........I followed all your steps, for 3 days the system was working flawlessly but now it again is doing the same thing, it starts, then shuts itself off after 5 seconds....then repeats it until it boots successfully.........


So it has some problems getting devices to run right at boot. I would not necessarily blame the overclocking. I'd suspect problems about starting up the memory or the graphics card connection instead.

To make sure your overclock settings are not to blame, you can add +0.050V offset voltage. That will not be scary at all. You mentioned you don't increase voltage at all at the moment. The CPU might demand something between 1.15V and 1.2V of voltage under load at the moment, so you would end up with something like 1.25V under load at most.

About memory problems, go into the "advanced memory settings" screen. It's the screen where the first setting is selecting the XMP profile, and the second is setting the memory speed. There's a setting called "performance enhance" and it is "Turbo" by default. Put that one on "Normal" (I'm just explaining this how I remember it, so I might be slightly off about what things are named).

The XMP profile on the memory sticks only comes with primary and secondary timings and voltage values. There's tertiary timings that are different depending on the board manufacturer. That "performance enhance" option is something that will tweak how aggressive the board is about setting those tertiary timings I believe.

You might want to try to slap +0.050V on the DRAM voltage. Put it on 1.55V instead of 1.5V, or 1.7V instead of 1.65V for example. DRAM voltage is on its own screen with a handful of settings on it, DRAM voltage being the first one.

Try to explicitly set the graphics card connection to use PCI-E 2.0 instead of 3.0 if you don't have a PCI-E 3.0 card. This is hidden under the last entry "Miscellaneous" of the first screen of the BIOS. Set the setting on that screen to "Gen2".

I'd also try to update the BIOS to the newest version. I don't know what board you have, but mine had several updates that said something like "improve system compatibility" in their description about changes.

Here's a more complete list of BIOS versions than what's on Gigabyte's website: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647


----------



## RXG9

Hi sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I'm building my PC with this board and I'm not sure if I got a faulty board or not or if this is normal, Here is what's going on:

Here is my build

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2howM

My motherboard is a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H, i5-3570k CPU, CM Hyper 212+ heatsink, RAM: G.Skill Sniper 8GB 1866Mhz. When I start my PC it boots up normally and has no problems POSTing, however there is something strange that is happening (I'm not sure if it's normal). I hit the start button, everything turns on, all the fans run, but then after about 2 sec the CPU fan stops running, 1 second later it turns back on and runs perfectly fine. My debug LED is going through all the motions telling me whatever its doing, the beginning code is "15" which my manual says is Pre-Memory Northbridge Initialization, it stays there for a bit, (2 sec max) (also when the CPU stops) but then boots up normally. I'm not sure if the CPU heatsink turning off then on is normal on this board, or the Z77 chipset. I've tried googling I tried the answer but everything I find is about some problems with debug codes and the mobo bootlooping or shutting off completey. I don't have any of these problems, my board boots up fine.

I tried a the stock heatsink I got with my 3570k and the same thing happens so it's not a problem with the hyper 212+ heatsink. Also I tried using the power button on the motherboard and not the case to make sure it wasn't a problem with my wiring of the power button/ panel. Just another theory to throw out there maybe the delay on the debug 15 code is because of my RAM? I'm using 1866, but I think I have to change something with the XMP profiles in the BIOS to get it to run at 1866, not sure if this has anything to do with the CPU fan turning on and off though. I've also tried one stick of RAM instead of two but the same thing happens. I've also tried raising the ram voltage to 1.65 but the same thing occurs.

Is this normal behavior?

Here is a video so it's a bit clearer as to what is going on

http://s59.photobucket.com/user/theshadowxx/media/VID_20131208_203214_zps26b6f0b7.mp4.html

edit: here's a video of just the debug LED

http://s59.photobucket.com/user/theshadowxx/media/VID_20131209_001807_zps0d8493ac.mp4.html

and here's another boot-up video. In this one the fan doesn't stop completely. I've been looking at it the past few boot ups and it's hasn't been making a complete stop, instead it's been looking like this

http://s59.photobucket.com/user/theshadowxx/media/VID_20131209_002558_zps3169e282.mp4.html

Thanks for all your help.


----------



## LDV617

Try reseating the CPU itself, not just the cooler, also reseat the memory. I have heard / seen this but never happened on one of my boards. Also reset bios defaults just in case.


----------



## RXG9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LDV617*
> 
> Try reseating the CPU itself, not just the cooler, also reseat the memory. I have heard / seen this but never happened on one of my boards. Also reset bios defaults just in case.


Just reseated CPU, heatsink, & memory. Same thing happens.

So just to be clear the fan is not supposed to turn off or is it not supposed to turn on till the board gets past the debug: 15 code? Or is it supposed to turn on and stay on the whole time.


----------



## LDV617

I am not sure if it is "supposed" to. If anyone else has any ideas / answers I'd really like to see them.


----------



## RXG9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LDV617*
> 
> I am not sure if it is "supposed" to. If anyone else has any ideas / answers I'd really like to see them.


what happens with your gigabyte board? also which one do you do you have? (D3H, UD3H, UD5H?)


----------



## LDV617

Z77x-UP4TH and it doesn't have any looping/restarting. But I am an IT guy and recently saw this on a Sabertooth board. It didn't seem to cause any problems, just went through POST 2 times. I know some graphics card will spin their fans for a few seconds during boot to clean the radiator. However I haven't heard of that on a Mobo / CPU


----------



## baconbriefs

Hi, I have the Z77MX-D3H TH. http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4281#sp

I want to install a Xonar DGX but my video card eats up 3 slots.

Would installing the Xonar DGX into the bottom blue slot affect my video card performance? I know the top slot would run at 8x when I install a second video card, but would installing a sound card have the same effect?

Thank you!


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RXG9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LDV617*
> 
> I am not sure if it is "supposed" to. If anyone else has any ideas / answers I'd really like to see them.
> 
> 
> 
> what happens with your gigabyte board? also which one do you do you have? (D3H, UD3H, UD5H?)
Click to expand...

On the "Advanced Memory Settings" screen, select the "Performance Enhance" setting and put it on "Normal" instead of "Turbo". I was lead to believe that setting tries to tweak the tertiary memory timings and perhaps that's what's happening at boot for you, some sort of optimization failing to run the memory correctly.

You could also try to update the BIOS. I actually have the same memory as you. Mine is called "G.Skill Sniper DIMM Kit 8GB, DDR3-1866, CL9-10-9-28 (F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR)". My board is a GA-Z77X-D3H. I currently use a mod of the newest beta BIOS.

You can get the newest BIOS versions here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647

And suspicious modded versions where the various modules are updated are here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647


----------



## asus3571

yeah had the same exact synptoms with mine all I needed to do was reaseat the mem


----------



## barkeater

When you turn on pc the CPU fan should turn on full then throttle then the computer should boot. The only time my pc does the start stop start is when I have flashed a bios.

Boot up and get into bios. Set to default settings then go to ram and set profile 1, save & restart. If it does the start-stop-start again, try running with min setup (boot drive, integrated graphics, one ram stick, etc).

Post back


----------



## RXG9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> On the "Advanced Memory Settings" screen, select the "Performance Enhance" setting and put it on "Normal" instead of "Turbo". I was lead to believe that setting tries to tweak the tertiary memory timings and perhaps that's what's happening at boot for you, some sort of optimization failing to run the memory correctly.
> 
> You could also try to update the BIOS. I actually have the same memory as you. Mine is called "G.Skill Sniper DIMM Kit 8GB, DDR3-1866, CL9-10-9-28 (F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR)". My board is a GA-Z77X-D3H. I currently use a mod of the newest beta BIOS.
> 
> You can get the newest BIOS versions here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647
> 
> And suspicious modded versions where the various modules are updated are here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647


Before I post let me just say that while going through my BIOS I had actually turned ON the XMP profile on "profile 1" I turned it off and restarted my PC and now my CPU fan spins, slows down a bit, and then spins back up again, now it does NOT make a complete stop. I'm assuming this is how it's supposed to be.

here is a video

http://s59.photobucket.com/user/theshadowxx/media/VID_20131209_002558_zps3169e282.mp4.html

also here is a video of jut the debug LED

http://s59.photobucket.com/user/theshadowxx/media/VID_20131209_001807_zps0d8493ac.mp4.html

now onto my post: So I went to advanced memory timings and played around with XMP on profile 1, [profile 2, XMP disable, under performance enhance, I tried normal, turbo, and extreme.

What I found out is that whatever config I put it into, XMP off, normal, or XMP off, turbo, or XMP off, extreme, the fans all spuns the same and didnt stop. When i turned on XMP on profile 1 or 2 no matter what performance enhance setting i had (normal, turbo, or extreme) every time I booted up the fans made a complete stop. So I think I figured out why that was happening it was because of XMP. Now can anyone tell me what XMP is exactly? does it make my 1866mhz actually run at 1866mhz instead of running at 1600mhz? if so is there a way to enable profile 1 and maybe manually set the timings or something (to the stock timings) because maybe leaving it in auto mode is causing the cpu fan to stop? if not that's OK I don't really mind it stopping, as long as it's running when the PC is on.

also i'm running the latest BIOS, version FA, released on 7/25/13
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> yeah had the same exact synptoms with mine all I needed to do was reaseat the mem


have u tried change ur XMP profiles to see if that affected it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> When you turn on pc the CPU fan should turn on full then throttle then the computer should boot. The only time my pc does the start stop start is when I have flashed a bios.
> 
> Boot up and get into bios. Set to default settings then go to ram and set profile 1, save & restart. If it does the start-stop-start again, try running with min setup (boot drive, integrated graphics, one ram stick, etc).


see post above


----------



## deepor

About your question what XMP is exactly...

There's a tiny chip on the memory sticks with the memory's timing profiles. The "JEDEC" standard used for that tops out at 1600MHz. "XMP" is an Intel extension of those profiles.

If you buy memory that's 1866MHz or faster, the highest normal profile will be 1333 or 1600. If you want its full speed, you need to enable one of the XMP profiles.

Here's something about that chip with the timing profiles: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_Presence_Detect

Perhaps try to increase voltage for DRAM a little? Let the memory run at 1.550V instead of its default 1.500V. It won't make the memory sticks very hot or anything like that, should be totally safe.


----------



## RXG9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> About your question what XMP is exactly...
> 
> There's a tiny chip on the memory sticks with the memory's timing profiles. The "JEDEC" standard used for that tops out at 1600MHz. "XMP" is an Intel extension of those profiles.
> 
> If you buy memory that's 1866MHz or faster, the highest normal profile will be 1333 or 1600. If you want its full speed, you need to enable one of the XMP profiles.
> 
> Here's something about that chip with the timing profiles: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_Presence_Detect
> 
> Perhaps try to increase voltage for DRAM a little? Let the memory run at 1.550V instead of its default 1.500V. It won't make the memory sticks very hot or anything like that, should be totally safe.


just raised it to 1.6, same thing occurs, fan makes a complete stop.


----------



## barkeater

scrap xmp. sometimes it just doesn't work as designed.

choose Optimized Default then go and set up your ram timings manually based on mfg recommendations. Normally this means just setting up the big four, speed as well as voltage and maybe command rate. I would not sweat it if you find out you cannot get 1866 to run and have to keep on 1600 as there is very little difference real-world performance wise.

At least you found where the problem is located. consider yourself lucky as others have posted earlier on about infinite (or at least very long) boot loops.

P.S. fill out your rig specs pls


----------



## Faksnima

Hello all. I need some help before I decide to RMA this thing. I have a Z77X UD5H WB WIFI....and 2 R9 290s.
PCIE slot #2 doesn't detect a card....both cards work on PCIE #1 (x16) but neither works in that slot or in dual configuration nor does my old 4870. At first when I tried dual 290s, my windows would BSOD with a system service exception error. After updating the drivers, I no longer got that error. Regardless, nothing picks up a card in slot #2....not in the bios, not in windows, nothing.

I'm running a 2600k and a Corsair GS800 PSU with Win 8.1. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## DeXel

Did you ever try another GPU? If so and it worked, then try a BIOS update. If another GPU also didn't work it should be a hardware issue.


----------



## Faksnima

I did, a 4870. Ok. Thanks.


----------



## rintalahri

Why does the machine is unstable when I put the settings 44x100MHz
I have try 1.28-1.45v setting but still 3Dmark11 and other tests fail...
which settings are important in bios...
43x100MHz goes well but all test fail if multiplier is 44.
44x settings machine can be shut down during the tests..
What special is 44x setting, when my computer is not stable??

If someone has same cpu and motherboard i'd like to know what settings he uses in bios..

i7-3770k
Ga-z77-ud3h F.19 bios
2x4GB 1600MHz XMP profile
Coolermaster Ga650w

I found these settings on the internet, what settings are wrong...? what settings i should change?


----------



## deepor

It's probably those VTT settings. Put everything on that screen back to Auto (except Vcore).

I say this because of this sentence here: "If you want to increase VTT you need to increase IMC voltage to within 0.005v below it, so 1.1v VTT would be 1.095v IMC on these GIGABYTE boards."

This is a quote out of this guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## rintalahri

ok i disabled igpu on bios, and success run 3Dmark 44x100MHz setting ... But get 2000points lower.
If i want to keep igpu on with gtx680 what bios setting (IGPU) i must put to make pc more stable...
I have MVP virtu 2.0 installed in windows. I get very much higher points in 3Dmark and 3Dmark11
if igpu and mvp virtu is on... but cant make 44x100MHz stable, only 43x100MHz is stable...

I do not really run another test than 3Dmark


----------



## rintalahri

I try 45x100MHz settings and it wont even boot windows..








Cpu core voltage control i have all settings auto exept voltage is 1.32
I hate this cpu.... If this wont overclock soon in 44-47x i have job for hammer...


----------



## barkeater

D
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rintalahri*
> 
> ok i disabled igpu on bios, and success run 3Dmark 44x100MHz setting ... But get 2000points lower.
> If i want to keep igpu on with gtx680 what bios setting (IGPU) i must put to make pc more stable...
> I have MVP virtu 2.0 installed in windows. I get very much higher points in 3Dmark and 3Dmark11
> if igpu and mvp virtu is on... but cant make 44x100MHz stable, only 43x100MHz is stable...
> 
> I do not really run another test than 3Dmark


ditch MVP as it only provides benefit in bench (no real world benefit)

Don't use settings you found online. That is not how you OC. Start from scratch or set everything back to stock and enjoy your computer. Use the OC guide for the Gigabyte Z77 ud3h/ud5h on this forum.


----------



## rintalahri

actually a really rare game MVP works.
I'll take it MVP off when I play, games usually does not start running when the MVP is on.
Yes my computer is able to play well enough games without overclocking.
I do not understand most of the bios settings to what they are doing and why.
Overclocking was my hobby, sometimes at the beginning of 2000, but then all
had to do with iron controls directly onto the motherboard, it was not kind of these bios.

When someone would UD3H motherboard and BIOS settings, the Finnish version,
it would be much easier to understand what all the settings mean.

I install my windows 8.1 all over again and try
then on again. I have a thousand and one rolling program
When Windows starts, it too can affect a lot.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> It's probably those VTT settings. Put everything on that screen back to Auto (except Vcore).
> 
> *I say this because of this sentence here: "If you want to increase VTT you need to increase IMC voltage to within 0.005v below it, so 1.1v VTT would be 1.095v IMC on these GIGABYTE boards."*
> 
> This is a quote out of this guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


\

I'm still trying to figure that one out. I have had my 3570k on a UD3H up to 4.9ghz a few times and around 4.6ghz I need to start increasing VTT and IMC, BUT whether or not they are within that stated voltage difference makes no difference. For 4.5-4.6ghz, 1.1VTT and .925 IMC (the defaults) seem to work just fine. For 4.8 I need to bump both up by about .025-.05v. The system has been going for over a year now at 4.4-4.6ghz, 1.25-1.35 vcore, 1.1VTT, .925IMC, 1.5Vmem with no issues or signs of major degradation. System is in my sig.

The only thing that makes sense here is the silicon lottery. It probably varies from chip to chip, board to board. The only other thing that pops into my head is the voltage relationship on X58 boards, but AFAIK its not like that on anything else.


----------



## rintalahri

I checked all the connections on the system board and processor,
I noticed the left side of the prosessor 2x4pin connector was loose...
only left 1x4pin connector was all the way bottom, right side not...
What connector is that, and what it can supply power?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> I'm still trying to figure that one out. I have had my 3570k on a UD3H up to 4.9ghz a few times and around 4.6ghz I need to start increasing VTT and IMC, BUT whether or not they are within that stated voltage difference makes no difference. For 4.5-4.6ghz, 1.1VTT and .925 IMC (the defaults) seem to work just fine. For 4.8 I need to bump both up by about .025-.05v. The system has been going for over a year now at 4.4-4.6ghz, 1.25-1.35 vcore, 1.1VTT, .925IMC, 1.5Vmem with no issues or signs of major degradation. System is in my sig.
> 
> The only thing that makes sense here is the silicon lottery. It probably varies from chip to chip, board to board. The only other thing that pops into my head is the voltage relationship on X58 boards, but AFAIK its not like that on anything else.


I can't help. I never needed to touch anything about that. My CPU and board seem to run fine at up to 4.9GHz and about 1.44V without doing anything but setting LLC and Vcore, though I don't feel confident to declare that stable as I only tested this for two days or something.

What I used a lot is 4.8GHz and Vcore at around 1.380V to 1.400V max through offset (can't say exact voltage because offset), and for that I'm confident that it's stable.

This is a 3570k, Z77X-D3H, RAM 1866 at 1.5V.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rintalahri*
> 
> I checked all the connections on the system board and processor,
> I noticed the left side of the prosessor 2x4pin connector was loose...
> only left 1x4pin connector was all the way bottom, right side not...
> What connector is that, and what it can supply power?


That's power for the CPU.


----------



## rintalahri

That wont help nothing... same issue... with IGPU+GTX680 and only GTX680 same thing.. 44x arent stable, and 45x wont even boot in windows.. My motherboard are GA-Z77-UD3H wifi, Can my pci-e wifi card is causing the problem ...? My graphic card is MSI GTX680 Lightning so it has 2x8pin connectors and i read somewhere That it use 70w more power than normal 2x6pin card... Maybe i have to test oc with different power supply...

This is my setup, if someone if someone sees the problem...

Motherboard: GA-Z77-UD3H WIFI
CPU: Intel 3770k
Memory: Corsair XMS3 2x4GB 1600MHz
GPU: MSI GTX680 Lighning
SSD: Samsung 840PRO 128GB
HDD: 1x2TB and 2x1TB
Power: Coolermaster GX650w
Keyboard: Madcatz strike 7
Mouse: Madcatz RAT9
Fan controller: Aerocool Touch 2100
DVDRW drive
4x12 Fans

Windows 8.1 64x


----------



## rintalahri

I have error code A0 in my motherboard. I have updated bios and code is still there..
What can be wrong??


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rintalahri*
> 
> I have error code A0 in my motherboard. I have updated bios and code is still there..
> What can be wrong??


I've heard that the A0 code means there's nothing wrong, so I think you're fine.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rintalahri*
> 
> I have error code A0 in my motherboard. I have updated bios and code is still there..
> What can be wrong??


A0 is what you want to see. It will show up once your OS begins to boot and should stay like that until you shut off your system.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rintalahri*
> 
> That wont help nothing... same issue...


Did you change what I told you about VTT voltage and IMC voltage in your screenshots? You did not mention anything about this.


----------



## rintalahri

I stop overclocking for little while, because must get the processor cooling
better ... I install the fans flowing places.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Did you change what I told you about VTT voltage and IMC voltage in your screenshots? You did not mention anything about this.


Hi bro, hope u are doing well, i am that boot loop guy again








Mm i want to ask that do u think that i5 2500K isnt that much compatible with the UD3H.....? Because the net is full with such bootup problems.... My problem still persists, i have tried many different configurations you told, but didn't touched the RAM setting as i am confused to set their voltages as i have xms3 1600mhz and its box states 1.65v so anyways any other suggestions you have for now, i have also flashed to F19, but everything is 100% same with same behaviour..... Actually I don't want to change my cpu as i love 2500k very very much








Thanks, will be waiting for your kind reply


----------



## Nomoregoodnames

Hi, I've had a Z77X-D3H, an i5-3570K, and a Sapphire 7950 for a year now. Anyway, I recently got three R9 290s (two of which are unlocked to 290Xs) for mining. Since I only had one card, I never tried out the PCIe x8 slot. Now, with the 290s, only the ones in the x16 and x4 slots will show up. The fan on the 290 in the x8 slot will spin up, but the card will not get hot. I've made sure that the integrated graphics is disabled and tried just about every combination of cards—no matter what, the x4 slot just won't work. Is there anything else that I could try?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomoregoodnames*
> 
> Hi, I've had a Z77X-D3H, an i5-3570K, and a Sapphire 7950 for a year now. Anyway, I recently got three R9 290s (two of which are unlocked to 290Xs) for mining. Since I only had one card, I never tried out the PCIe x8 slot. Now, with the 290s, only the ones in the x16 and x4 slots will show up. The fan on the 290 in the x8 slot will spin up, but the card will not get hot. I've made sure that the integrated graphics is disabled and tried just about every combination of cards-no matter what, the x4 slot just won't work. Is there anything else that I could try?


Maybe you simply can't have 3 cards running on the D3H? It certainly doesn't support 3-way crossfire.


----------



## Nomoregoodnames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Maybe you simply can't have 3 cards running on the D3H? It certainly doesn't support 3-way crossfire.


AFAIK, crossfire works on PCIe x4. On the other hand, SLI needs x8 slots. Also, I tried just one card in the x8 slot and it did not work either. Either way, I don't need crossfirex working since it's mainly for mining.


----------



## mika91

Hi,
Can anybody try to underclock the 3770K with a z77 gigabyte board?
I want to know of I can set default speed to 2.5Ghz, and let's say 3.7GHz for turbo 1-core active, 3.2GHz for 2 core s and 2.9Ghz for 3.
Because 3770T are less versatile and hardest for find, I'm trying to get around same results with 3770k.
I need to lower the CPU around 45W.
Thanks


----------



## xquisit

I am considering a UD5H for my 3770k.

Any suggestions on why I should not get one? I have a $150-250 budget and will be using an h100i, SLI 660s, and an external sound card.

What's a better choice than the UD5H?

I want x16,x16 . and a good amount of CPU power phases. I am reading issues in regards to posting and usb related issues with some BIOS revisions.

is the ud5h the right motherboard for my needs?


----------



## DeXel

Well for one if you care about fastboot, secure boot and etc. Gigabyte left those features for BETA BIOSes, and sadly pretty much abandoned BIOS development for these boards...


----------



## xquisit

What are those options and which board is the best alternative if I did care?


----------



## DeXel

Those are Windows 8 specific features. Fastboot reduces boot times, and secure boot blocks boot media with non signed executables; thus, preventing viruses to get into the system from external devices during the boot.

I think you can get MSI Mpower or Asus P8Z77-V or V Pro for similar prices. MSI lacks offset overclocking. Asus has the worst sound out of 3, but you have sound card anyway.


----------



## xquisit

Well, which motherboard is better than the ud5h?


----------



## DeXel

In the same price range all of those suggested have their trade offs. IMO for you setup I would try Asus. However if their RMA is still terrible, I would go MSI.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> So it has some problems getting devices to run right at boot. I would not necessarily blame the overclocking. I'd suspect problems about starting up the memory or the graphics card connection instead.
> 
> To make sure your overclock settings are not to blame, you can add +0.050V offset voltage. That will not be scary at all. You mentioned you don't increase voltage at all at the moment. The CPU might demand something between 1.15V and 1.2V of voltage under load at the moment, so you would end up with something like 1.25V under load at most.
> 
> About memory problems, go into the "advanced memory settings" screen. It's the screen where the first setting is selecting the XMP profile, and the second is setting the memory speed. There's a setting called "performance enhance" and it is "Turbo" by default. Put that one on "Normal" (I'm just explaining this how I remember it, so I might be slightly off about what things are named).
> 
> The XMP profile on the memory sticks only comes with primary and secondary timings and voltage values. There's tertiary timings that are different depending on the board manufacturer. That "performance enhance" option is something that will tweak how aggressive the board is about setting those tertiary timings I believe.
> 
> You might want to try to slap +0.050V on the DRAM voltage. Put it on 1.55V instead of 1.5V, or 1.7V instead of 1.65V for example. DRAM voltage is on its own screen with a handful of settings on it, DRAM voltage being the first one.
> 
> Try to explicitly set the graphics card connection to use PCI-E 2.0 instead of 3.0 if you don't have a PCI-E 3.0 card. This is hidden under the last entry "Miscellaneous" of the first screen of the BIOS. Set the setting on that screen to "Gen2".
> 
> I'd also try to update the BIOS to the newest version. I don't know what board you have, but mine had several updates that said something like "improve system compatibility" in their description about changes.
> 
> Here's a more complete list of BIOS versions than what's on Gigabyte's website: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647


Any help bro.......?







....now i also have shooted a complete video of the bootup loop process, if you are interested to see, i can upload it......


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Any help bro.......?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....now i also have shooted a complete video of the bootup loop process, if you are interested to see, i can upload it......


I really have no idea anymore.







I typed up everything I've seen and heard about pretty much.


----------



## deNordic

How can i offset my voltage on my UD5H? Currently it's stable at [email protected] and i want to use EIST when idle. My i7's VID is 1.128v . Someone told me that offset = vcore - vid so 1.235-1.128 = 0.107. Is that true? Dynamic vcore becomes grey when i set vcore manually. How can i do it?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deNordic*
> 
> How can i offset my voltage on my UD5H? Currently it's stable at [email protected] and i want to use EIST when idle. My i7's VID is 1.128v . Someone told me that offset = vcore - vid so 1.235-1.128 = 0.107. Is that true? Dynamic vcore becomes grey when i set vcore manually. How can i do it?


In the VCore box, you type "n" and press Enter, and "Normal" will show up. The DVID box will light up.



Spoiler: something that might be interesting



The VCore you will get is VCore = VID + DVID, so that part you understood right, but you might not know that VID is not a fixed value. It changes depending on what the CPU works on. The change in VID is what will pull down your VCore at idle! You have to look at the VID when you are running something like IBT or prime95 etc. to translate your current 1.235V.

Get the program HWINFO and open its sensor window. It can show VID and records min and max values so you can see what range it has and what VCore values you'll get when changing over to offset.

That VCore = VID + DVID formula generally did not work right for me. It runs unstable, I'm guessing because VCore gets too low for normal programs or at idle. So I had to retest everything about the offset voltage.

You can also look at the LLC settings. If you currently use Turbo or Extreme, try Low, Medium or High with offset. Through LLC, you can pull down the voltage that gets used for things like prime95 and IBT, so you can use higher offset voltage for general stability without seeing increase of temperatures at the top.


----------



## deNordic

When i'm entering bios , it writes Vcore = 1.128V @ 3.9Ghz (all default)
When i'm stressing it in windows it goes 1.152V @ 3.9Ghz , and while idle it drops to 0.876V @ 1.6Ghz

I want to have a stable vcore of 1.235V @ 4.5Ghz under LOAD and when it IDLES to drop to 0.876V !
Have i understood it right?

So what offset shall i put and what LLC ?


----------



## frag85

Try LLC on High, or the next level.

You'll have to figure out your own voltages for your chip. If you want 1.25 and you are getting a default/Normal voltage of 1.15, try an offset of .1.


----------



## peanutbk

Hey I am fairly new of overclocking so try and bare with me, I have looked at a few guides and I believe I understand enough to give it a go. But I always run in the the same problem.

I try and set the cpu ratio over 41 and it resets back to 34, the same with the turbo values. By default they are 39 and so on and won't go over 43. I thought maybe if I set the voltage a little higher to 1.270 it would let me do it.

I have read that maybe its possible my cpu could be locked? but then how is possible to bring it up to 4.1GHz if by default the max was supposed to be 3.9GHz.

Hopefully someone can shine a little light on my situation, I have a 3770k, z77x-ud3h F18.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peanutbk*
> 
> Hey I am fairly new of overclocking so try and bare with me, I have looked at a few guides and I believe I understand enough to give it a go. But I always run in the the same problem.
> 
> I try and set the cpu ratio over 41 and it resets back to 34, the same with the turbo values. By default they are 39 and so on and won't go over 43. I thought maybe if I set the voltage a little higher to 1.270 it would let me do it.
> 
> I have read that maybe its possible my cpu could be locked? but then how is possible to bring it up to 4.1GHz if by default the max was supposed to be 3.9GHz.
> 
> Hopefully someone can shine a little light on my situation, I have a 3770k, z77x-ud3h F18.


Either disable turbo or raise the turbo limit. I would simply do the former to make it easiest.


----------



## orndorf77

my motherboard is a xp-z68-ud3 non h am I in the rite place


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> my motherboard is a xp-z68-ud3 non h am I in the rite place


Nope, this is the Z77 thread.

What you're looking for is the Gigabyte Z68 thread.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peanutbk*


First of all, make sure you go into the old-school looking BIOS menus you get when you hit Escape on that graphical representation of the board.

If you set the four Turbo Boost multipliers, they will override the main multiplier. This also happens if you disable Turbo Boost but left some numbers in the input boxes for the multipliers. They will be grayed out, but they will still override! It's a bug. That's probably what is happening to you.

Easiest is to simply leave everything about Turbo Boost on Auto and only use the main multiplier setting. What I'm saying is, the only settings you need to change to overclock the CPU are: core multiplier, VCore, LLC. Everything else you can leave on Auto and it will just work.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



On Gigabyte Z77, using the main multiplier setting gets you the exact same result as tweaking the Turbo Boost settings manually. The BIOS will actually secretly use Turbo Boost behind the scenes, will disable the power limits and increase the four Turbo Boost multipliers to what you've set the main multiplier. For that to work right, those four Turbo multiplier values have to show "Auto", even if they are disabled and grayed out. The actual multiplier for the CPU will always stay at default 35.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Thinking of selling my UD3H and getting a new mobo, sick and tired of the USB port issues. Any recommendations?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Thinking of selling my UD3H and getting a new mobo, sick and tired of the USB port issues. Any recommendations?


Get an ASRocker? If the UD3H isn't working out I don't know what to tell you.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Get an ASRocker? If the UD3H isn't working out I don't know what to tell you.


That's one I'm looking at. I don't know which other ones have digita capacitors or if that should even be a factor. Which board was it that overtook the world overclock record again after they set a record with the Gigabyte?

EDIT: If I could fix the darn USB issue, I'd stick with this one


----------



## 8bitG33k

Found it! ASRock Z77.

EDIT: I mean IS there a way to fix the USB issue on this board? My problem specifically is that the top two USB 3.0 ports refuse to work.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Found it! ASRock Z77.
> 
> EDIT: I mean IS there a way to fix the USB issue on this board? My problem specifically is that the top two USB 3.0 ports refuse to work.


Well, there's lots of ASRock Z77 boards, but the good ones are (to my knowledge) the Extreme6/9/11 and OC Formula.

I recommend the OC Formula.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Found it! ASRock Z77.
> 
> EDIT: I mean IS there a way to fix the USB issue on this board? My problem specifically is that the top two USB 3.0 ports refuse to work.


Just remembered that I had the same problem as you when I first got my board; if it's what I think it is, the fix is easy. Go onto Gigabyte's page for your board, and go to drivers. Choose the VIA and Intel ones that are meant for your OS and download them. Extract the ZIP files and leave them in your downloads folder or wherever, just so long as you can easily get to that directory. Go to the device manager and then to "Universal Serial Bus controllers." It should indicate which ones need drivers, but if not it shouldn't be tough to figure out which ones to mess with. Right click on them and choose "Update driver software." Then choose "Browse my computer..." Simply find those folders you downloaded, and Windows should do the rest. That fixed all of my USB issues; I hope it works out for you too!


----------



## dougb62

Since you are discussing this issue, my problem is that the VIA USB 3 controller isn't showing up in device manager at all (UD5H). I have tried everything short of removing all of the USB ports from the Device manager (since the one I'm looking for isn't there to remove anyway). All of the ports are enabled in BIOS (Unless I'm missing something). I'm willing to settle for 2.0 speed, but I definitely don't want to! (ALL ports are functional, just not performing at 3.0 speeds - none of them - even the Intel chipset ones).

Also - all I see for USB drivers at the Gigabyte site are the Intel?:



Device Manager (No VIA USB 3.0):


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Since you are discussing this issue, my problem is that the VIA USB 3 controller isn't showing up in device manager at all (UD5H). I have tried everything short of removing all of the USB ports from the Device manager (since the one I'm looking for isn't there to remove anyway). All of the ports are enabled in BIOS (Unless I'm missing something). I'm willing to settle for 2.0 speed, but I definitely don't want to! (ALL ports are functional, just not performing at 3.0 speeds - none of them - even the Intel chipset ones).
> 
> Also - all I see for USB drivers at the Gigabyte site are the Intel?:
> 
> 
> 
> Device Manager (No VIA USB 3.0):


UD5H doesn't have a VIA USB 3 controller unlike UD3H, it just has VIA USB 3 hubs. From my UD5H :


----------



## deepor

There's a newer Intel USB3 Win7 driver here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> There's a newer Intel USB3 Win7 driver here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html


After a p-a-i-n-f-u-l-l-y s-l-o-w download of these drivers, I get this:



Any ideas?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> After a p-a-i-n-f-u-l-l-y s-l-o-w download of these drivers, I get this:
> 
> Any ideas?


VIA driver is for UD3H. UD5H doesn't need them. There is firmware upgrade available though if you're having issues.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> After a p-a-i-n-f-u-l-l-y s-l-o-w download of these drivers, I get this:
> 
> [...]
> 
> Any ideas?


You needed to download the Intel drivers "Intel® USB 3.0 Driver 1.0.9.254", which seem to be newer than what's on Gigabyte's website.

http://downloadmirror.intel.com/21129/eng/Intel(R)_USB_3.0_eXtensible_Host_Controller_Driver.zip

To be clear what's happening and what DeXel and mm67 said, your board does not have VIA USB ports. It has USB hubs to multiply the Intel ports. All your ports are Intel and nothing else.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> You needed to download the Intel drivers "Intel® USB 3.0 Driver 1.0.9.254", which seem to be newer than what's on Gigabyte's website.
> 
> http://downloadmirror.intel.com/21129/eng/Intel(R)_USB_3.0_eXtensible_Host_Controller_Driver.zip
> 
> To be clear what's happening and what DeXel and mm67 said, your board does not have VIA USB ports. It has USB hubs to multiply the Intel ports. All your ports are Intel and nothing else.


Right, ok... I'll try these drivers. Currently, in AIDA Extreme when I plug in an ADATA USB 3.0 flash drive, it shows up under a USB 2.0 Root Hub no matter which USB 3.0 port I put it in. And I see no USB 3.0 Root Hub showing in AIDA. This is currently the only USB 3.0 device I have to test the ports - could there be some reason (defect in the device) that it is not showing up as a USB 3?



Edit: Tried to install the above recommended drivers, and get this:


----------



## deepor

Do you have something called "xHCI mode" enabled in the BIOS? It's on the "Peripherals" screen close to the top somewhere. That's what enables USB 3.0 (I think), the ports run in 2.0 otherwise.


----------



## DeXel

Did you actually try to speed test it? Windows 7 is known to misreport that.


----------



## mm67

Front panel USB 3 port with a USB 2 stick :


Same port with a USB 3 stick :


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> http://downloadmirror.intel.com/21129/eng/Intel(R)_USB_3.0_eXtensible_Host_Controller_Driver.zip


Will those work for the UD3H too?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Just remembered that I had the same problem as you when I first got my board; if it's what I think it is, the fix is easy. Go onto Gigabyte's page for your board, and go to drivers. Choose the VIA and Intel ones that are meant for your OS and download them. Extract the ZIP files and leave them in your downloads folder or wherever, just so long as you can easily get to that directory. Go to the device manager and then to "Universal Serial Bus controllers." It should indicate which ones need drivers, but if not it shouldn't be tough to figure out which ones to mess with. Right click on them and choose "Update driver software." Then choose "Browse my computer..." Simply find those folders you downloaded, and Windows should do the rest. That fixed all of my USB issues; I hope it works out for you too!


Alas, that didn't work.

"The best driver for your software is already installed"


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Alas, that didn't work.
> 
> "The best driver for your software is already installed"


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Will those work for the UD3H too?


I just tried installing the latest version from here on my UD3H : https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=21129 . Worked fine.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Do you have something called "xHCI mode" enabled in the BIOS? It's on the "Peripherals" screen close to the top somewhere. That's what enables USB 3.0 (I think), the ports run in 2.0 otherwise.


This was set to "Auto" in BIOS - I set it to "Enabled", and lost the top two 3.0 ports on the rear... ???

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Front panel USB 3 port with a USB 2 stick :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same port with a USB 3 stick :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Front panel USB 3 port with a USB 2 stick :


Same port with a USB 3 stick :


Something is VERY off here...


----------



## deepor

Maybe see what happens if you play around with these three settings:

(1) XHCI mode
(2) Legacy USB
(3) XHCI hand-off

In the BIOS, things named "XHCI" mean it's about USB 3.0, "EHCI" means USB 2.0. There's a "legacy USB" option somewhere that's making it so the USB 3.0 ports are appearing under the USB 2.0 controller. They will run as USB 2.0. Related to this is an option "XHCI hand-off". From what I understood, those two together will mean the system will boot with all ports as USB 2.0 and then switch over to USB 3.0 after the OS loads the drivers. I have no idea how settings behave if you put them to "Auto".


----------



## benjamen50

For GA-Z77-D3H there are new bios updates, should I update to the new bios? (Theres also a beta version as well)


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> For GA-Z77-D3H there are new bios updates, should I update to the new bios? (Theres also a beta version as well)


In my opinion, the only reason to flash the BIOS is to fix problems. If you are experiencing none, I wouldn't bother.


----------



## bodean

Hi all.

Just ordered a Z77X-UD3H to replace my Asus P8Z68V Gen3 mb that was having issues
I have an I7-2600K Processor. Without going through the 100 pages in this topic, any quick tips/suggestions for bios settings to get my processor up to 4.0GHZ? I have a heatsink (no water cooling in my pc).
I don't feel pushing it more than 4.0 as I don't do AS MUCH gaming as I use to on my pc.

Thanks for the input


----------



## frag85

1. all the Turbo multis to 40x
2. LLC to High or Turbo
3. ???
4. Profit

In the case your CPU can't do 4ghz on stock voltage, bump it up or do Normal with an offset.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Maybe see what happens if you play around with these three settings:
> 
> (1) XHCI mode
> (2) Legacy USB
> (3) XHCI hand-off
> 
> In the BIOS, things named "XHCI" mean it's about USB 3.0, "EHCI" means USB 2.0. There's a "legacy USB" option somewhere that's making it so the USB 3.0 ports are appearing under the USB 2.0 controller. They will run as USB 2.0. Related to this is an option "XHCI hand-off". From what I understood, those two together will mean the system will boot with all ports as USB 2.0 and then switch over to USB 3.0 after the OS loads the drivers. I have no idea how settings behave if you put them to "Auto".


While attempting to troubleshoot this issue, I lost my rear, bottom two usb 3 ports altogether. Nothing happens when I plug in any device, and the activity lights on my flash drives don't even flicker. However, I know it's not a hardware issue, as they are there in BIOS, and in Linux. I have essentially given up on the speed issue for now, I figure I'll get a USB 3 PCI card for speed, but I would like the ports functioning again. Anyone have ideas?


----------



## frag85

I had a headset that refused to work on the Intel USB ports on my UD3H regardless of bios setting. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a firmware or driver bug that just never got fixed.


----------



## bodean

SO I just replaced by old ASUS MB with a new Z77X-UD3H

I am able to boot back up into windows 8.1 without any issues, as long as I have my monitor plugged into the onboard video, and my ATI 7950 out of the system.

When I put my ATI video card into the system, I get no display on my Monitor, and see a A6 light on the motherboard. I have removed all ATI drivers from my windows. Any ideas how I can fix this and use my video card? thanks


----------



## DeXel

Does it boot to the BIOS with your GPU installed?


----------



## bodean

Not sure, screen is blank, I can get into bios when not using GPU and onboard video


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> SO I just replaced by old ASUS MB with a new Z77X-UD3H
> 
> I am able to boot back up into windows 8.1 without any issues, as long as I have my monitor plugged into the onboard video, and my ATI 7950 out of the system.
> 
> When I put my ATI video card into the system, I get no display on my Monitor, and see a A6 light on the motherboard. I have removed all ATI drivers from my windows. Any ideas how I can fix this and use my video card? thanks


I don't know about the UD3H, but on my D3H, the way I remember, I had to update BIOS to what's the most current beta on the Gigabyte page for Windows 8.1. I tried upgrading 8 to 8.1 about three times over several weeks and had to restore a backup each time because it did not work right.

I can't say for sure if the newer BIOS is important. It might also be Microsoft updates that fixed my problems, so take a look at Windows Update and let it install everything it wants to.

Also... make sure to have Secure Boot disabled (disabled is the default setting) if your graphics card does not have a UEFI GOP compatible BIOS.


----------



## cab2

The USB 3.0 ports on the VIA VL810 hub worked for a few weeks, then were no longer detected. I posted about it about 100 pages back...


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Just a heads up for UD3H owners. Gigabyte just released the F20e beta BIOS for Rev 1.0 and Rev 1.1. So even after nearly a year and a quarter, they are still supporting these boards with BIOS updates.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Just a heads up for UD3H owners. Gigabyte just released the F20e beta BIOS for Rev 1.0 and Rev 1.1. So even after nearly a year and a quarter, they are still supporting these boards with BIOS updates.


Try almost 2 years.


----------



## Jack Mac

Still nothing new for my $220 UP5 TH, this is a bit ridiculous.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Just a heads up for UD3H owners. Gigabyte just released the F20e beta BIOS for Rev 1.0 and Rev 1.1. So even after nearly a year and a quarter, they are still supporting these boards with BIOS updates.


It is still concerning that BIOSes are sitll in BETA stage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Still nothing new for my $220 UP5 TH, this is a bit ridiculous.


Nothing for UD5H either.


----------



## stasio

^GA-Z77X-UD5H - F16g.....is out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Still nothing new for my $220 UP5 TH, this is a bit ridiculous.


Are you on BIOS F12j?


----------



## Jack Mac

I'm on F11 ATM.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> I'm on F11 ATM.


Try F12j.....


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> Try F12j.....


Alright, I'll do it when I get back to my computer.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stasio*
> 
> ^GA-Z77X-UD5H - F16g.....is out.
> Are you on BIOS F12j?


Thanks!
Quote:


> Fix audio function under Win7/8/8.1


I wonder if they mean DPC because other than that I had no issues with audio







.


----------



## ABD EL HAMEED

Does updating the BIOS actually help in anyway?


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABD EL HAMEED*
> 
> Does updating the BIOS actually help in anyway?


I've heard as a rule of thumb to not bother to update your BIOS unless you're actually having any problems.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABD EL HAMEED*
> 
> Does updating the BIOS actually help in anyway?


It usually does, but sometimes it breaks something else. So far F16g passed my fastboot + OC at the same time test which is the most reappearing bug with these BIOSes since Gigabyte added fast boot.


----------



## Mercyflush64

I can't find any information on the GA-Z77X-UD3H and what it's phase control is. 8 + 4 or whatever. I'm trying to decide on this board or an ASRock Z77 Extreme4. Both have their horror stories in Newegg reviews but I rarely take those seriously.


----------



## deepor

It's 6 phases for the cores I think (I've seen 6+2 mentioned somewhere). The chips it uses are a lot better than on the Extreme4. That's what makes the temperature low on the Z77X-UD3H and high on the Extreme4. My Z77X-D3H goes to about 65 C on the temperature sensor that's on the VRM while IBT is running, voltage close to 1.4V, room temperature around 21 C. Don't worry about the missing heat-sink on part of the VRM, that's the area for the memory or something.

EDIT: This table says 6+2 for UD3H, 4+1 for the Extreme4: http://www.sinhardware.com/images/vrmlist.png


----------



## redfaction95

Any body tried the F20E bios for Z77-UD3H REV1.1
I am getting an error "invalid BIOS image" though i cross checked everything. I am Using Qflash......


----------



## frag85

Guess I forgot to hit submit yesterday.

Its not about the number of phases, but the quality of the phases. Just because one board has more of them, doesn't automatically mean its better. It could produce the same quality power, could be worse, could be better.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Has anyone here or know of anyone who has swapped out the chipset heatsink on this board? I'm wondering if this is a standard size and which sink might fit.


----------



## bodean

Is there a thread out there that is updated with the latest driver updates for our boards? I know my old Asus board, there was a thread that was updated and reflected the latest drivers/bios for the board.


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> 1. all the Turbo multis to 40x
> 2. LLC to High or Turbo
> 3. ???
> 4. Profit
> 
> In the case your CPU can't do 4ghz on stock voltage, bump it up or do Normal with an offset.


Can you elaborate on 3 and 4?
Thanks


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Is there a thread out there that is updated with the latest driver updates for our boards? I know my old Asus board, there was a thread that was updated and reflected the latest drivers/bios for the board.


http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys I recently updated my Gigabyte BIOS and it came with a secure boot options menu, which I would like to use.










Even though secure boot is enabled it isn't really working yet. If I disable CSM will Secure Boot work? Or do I need to tinker the other settings to enable secure boot? I'm using GPT btw.

I've heard that I need to re-install the OS to have secure boot enabled so that's what I'm going to do when I get this sorted out.

Thanks.


----------



## DeXel

Try to change standard to manual, then new settings menu should appear. In that setting menu you need to load keys to factory ones or something like that.

After that should work ,but make sure your 780ti has UEFI BIOS otherwise it would boot loop. Your Windows 8/8.1 must also be installed in the UEFI mode.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Try to change standard to manual, then new settings menu should appear. In that setting menu you need to load keys to factory ones or something like that.
> 
> After that should work ,but make sure your 780ti has UEFI BIOS otherwise it would boot loop. Your Windows 8/8.1 must also be installed in the UEFI mode.


Ok here's what it shows for custom BIOS mode.










Inside the key management menu










Inside the Image Execution Policy










So should I install the default secure boot keys? Do I need to do this before or can I do this after OS installation?

And I don't need to disable CSM for secure boot? And by UEFI do you mean GPT? Because my OS (8.1) is already running in GPT mode.

Thanks Dexel you're amazing


----------



## deepor

If you load the keys in that sub-menu, it will say SecureBoot is in "User" mode. That's when it's enabled! If you clear the keys, it will go back to "Setup" mode you see in your screenshot.

CSM will be off with SecureBoot on. This means, you can't use a graphics card that does not have UEFI GOP vBIOS. You also need GPT partitioning and the UEFI FAT32 system partition with a boot loader. I'm guessing both of that won't be a problem with your PC because the GTX 780 TI is new and you are already using GPT.

What you have to know for the future is, if you want to do anything like restoring a system image backup or installing a new Windows, you will have to first go back to the SecureBoot "Setup" mode by clearing the keys. If you try to install Windows in "User" mode, it will fail (or at least, it did for me).


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> So should I install the default secure boot keys?


AFAIK yes. When I tried that myself, my PC went to boot loop haha since I don't have UEFI GOP compatible GPU.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> If you load the keys in that sub-menu, it will say SecureBoot is in "User" mode. That's when it's enabled! If you clear the keys, it will go back to "Setup" mode you see in your screenshot.
> 
> CSM will be off with SecureBoot on. This means, you can't use a graphics card that does not have UEFI GOP vBIOS. You also need GPT partitioning and the UEFI FAT32 system partition with a boot loader. I'm guessing both of that won't be a problem with your PC because the GTX 780 TI is new and you are already using GPT.
> 
> What you have to know for the future is, if you want to do anything like restoring a system image backup or installing a new Windows, you will have to first go back to the SecureBoot "Setup" mode by clearing the keys. If you try to install Windows in "User" mode, it will fail (or at least, it did for me).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> AFAIK yes. When I tried that myself, my PC went to boot loop haha since I don't have UEFI GOP compatible GPU.


Aw yea:



Thanks for the help guys! +REPs


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Can you elaborate on 3 and 4?
> Thanks


???


----------



## eBombzor

Does anyone know where the temperature sensors are on Gigabyte motherboards?

There is one place on my mobo that is ridiculously hot compared to everything else:


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Does anyone know where the temperature sensors are on Gigabyte motherboards?
> 
> There is one place on my mobo that is ridiculously hot compared to everything else:


Are you saying you think 39C is ridiculous? That's a summer day for me. That sensor is for either the VRM's or chipset. Mine has gotten up to about 60C before.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Does anyone know where the temperature sensors are on Gigabyte motherboards?
> 
> There is one place on my mobo that is ridiculously hot compared to everything else:


Get HWINFO64, I've had pretty good luck with that; Current/Min/Max, and you can pop up graphs, change the polling rate, export to MSI AB/RivaTuner OSD.

As long as things stay under 80C (or <70C for tCase) under stress tests you'll be fine.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Does anyone know where the temperature sensors are on Gigabyte motherboards?
> 
> There is one place on my mobo that is ridiculously hot compared to everything else:


Try the program HWINFO. Its sensor window is organized differently. It does not group all temperature readings together, or all voltages together. Instead, it groups everything by the source. If you see the other sensor readings of that particular chip that shows that temperature, you can guess what it probably is about.

There's a bunch of chips that are tied to the various sections of the VRM for example. You get voltage and power and temperature readings for the section that work on the CPU VCore. That temperature that you are thinking about is probably from that sensor, as the CPU can eat a lot of power. It goes up to 60C or more on my Z77X-D3H when overclocking a lot and running something stressful.

EDIT: frag85 was faster


----------



## Opelee

Just wondering, are all the SYS_FAN and CPU_FAN headers PWM control or voltage control?

I have a Z77-UD5H mobo.


----------



## deepor

Look in the manual. It's in the "internal connectors" section. There are tables describing the function of the four pins of the fan headers. Look out for "speed control". Wherever this is mentioned for the voltage pin, which is pin number two, this means the board can control voltage. Wherever it is mentioned on the PWM pin, which is pin number four, this means the board can do PWM control.

It's probably mentioned on both pin 2 and 4 for the CPU header. You can select between PWM and voltage control in the BIOS for that header.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Look in the manual. It's in the "internal connectors" section. There are tables describing the function of the four pins of the fan headers. Look out for "speed control". Wherever this is mentioned for the voltage pin, which is pin number two, this means the board can control voltage. Wherever it is mentioned on the PWM pin, which is pin number four, this means the board can do PWM control.
> 
> It's probably mentioned on both pin 2 and 4 for the CPU header. You can select between PWM and voltage control in the BIOS for that header.


I have the UD3H and the pins can do both for all of the headers and can be set in the bios. I would thing the UD5H should do the same.


----------



## bodean

Any idea if its worth installing Lucidlogix VIRTU MVP 2.0? I run an ATI 7950 video card, dual monitor, and not real familiar with this Virtu MVP.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Any idea if its worth installing Lucidlogix VIRTU MVP 2.0? I run an ATI 7950 video card, dual monitor, and not real familiar with this Virtu MVP.


I tried using it where you plug the monitor into the motherboard to use Intel's graphics on the desktop. VirtuMVP then enables you to play games on the graphics card, will apparently copy its framebuffer over the PCI-E bus to main memory, and it will be shown on screen through the Intel graphics. This caused a noticeable delay in the first game I tried. The second game I tried had some sort of visual problems, corrupted graphics. I don't remember the details anymore. I gave up at that point.

There being a delay makes a lot of sense when thinking about how it works. It should be a terrible idea to use it for most people if that's true.


----------



## Mercyflush64

The reviews that I have seen among a few posts on here about the UD3H board said it only works with a couple of games out of the many it claims to support. Sounds like wasted technology and strain on your CPU and memory just to mock simulate the "idea' of owning an SLI setup. Personally i'd rather save the money for a second card instead of even messing with this.


----------



## deepor

It's not SLI at all. It's something like what's used in notebooks. Most of the time when you are doing boring things on the desktop, the Intel graphics does all the work. If you open a program that needs 3D performance, the NVIDIA/AMD GPU gets going and takes over working on that program. The Intel graphics only takes the result of that work and shows it on screen, but does not help at all.

I guess it might be neat to use if you want to use the graphics card for [email protected] or something, as that makes even desktop use feel choppy (at least for me). If you feel LucidVirtu works well enough for you when playing games on the graphics card with that delay I mentioned, you won't have to unplug and plug in the monitor switching between [email protected] and gaming.


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> I tried using it where you plug the monitor into the motherboard to use Intel's graphics on the desktop. VirtuMVP then enables you to play games on the graphics card, will apparently copy its framebuffer over the PCI-E bus to main memory, and it will be shown on screen through the Intel graphics. This caused a noticeable delay in the first game I tried. The second game I tried had some sort of visual problems, corrupted graphics. I don't remember the details anymore. I gave up at that point.
> 
> There being a delay makes a lot of sense when thinking about how it works. It should be a terrible idea to use it for most people if that's true.


Thanks. Have an ATI 7970 card, with 2 Dell Monitors.
Do I want to hook both monitors up via DVI cable to the 7970? Or one to the internal graphics on the Motherboard, and the main monitor to the 7970?


----------



## benjamen50

You'd want to hook them both up to the 7970, I don't see the point of plugging it into integrated graphics when theres a dedicated graphics card display port available.

Well if you're using virtu MVP, then you'd put both the displays to the integrated?


----------



## bodean

Any advantage to overclocking with Easytune vs booting up in the bios? Or just more convenient?


----------



## benjamen50

Only more convienent but I wouldn't rely on it.


----------



## Mercyflush64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Any advantage to overclocking with Easytune vs booting up in the bios? Or just more convenient?


4.4ghz overclock.
1.512v under Prime95 with EasyTune
1.322v under Prime95 in bios

Easy Tune is just that, easy to use. Unless you upgrade your computer often those extra volts will just deteriorate your chip faster. Personally I can't afford a rebuild every time new technology hits the market so i do what i can to make things last.


----------



## frag85

Easytune is a piece of garbage. I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot(3.048m) pole.


----------



## uncola

just updated my z77x-ud3h to a modified f20e bios with updated hardware firmwares! it seems to be working fine.. no idea what the updates give but whatever! http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48085-gigabyte-modified-bios.html


----------



## uncola

Hey anyone using an intel gpu notice.. when the computer wakes from sleep, windows aren't maximized anymore, they're all restored?? using windows 8.1


----------



## BobLeProf

I'm having a new intermittent problem with my Z77X-US5H. It had been working fine for 1 1/2 years.
On a cold boot, it now frequently fails to boot:

Boot Failure detected
The system has experienced a boot failure possibly due to incorrect configuration. Previous setting in BIOS may not be compatible with current hardware state.

When I enter the BIOS after the failure, I read:
CPU 3692.21
BCLK 99.79
Memory: 1596.78

On a boot that works, I read:
CPU 3804.
BCLK 100.12
Memory 1868.

My BIOS settings look fine, even though I get the "incorrect configuration" message (IOW they are the same whether the boot worked or not). Though I may be missing something.

When I exit the bios after the failure without saving any changes (IOW without fixing or changing anything), the computer always boots normally into Windows and works fine.
When I reboot, Windows restarts fine. However, if I enter the bios on a normal reboot from Windows, I sometimes get a failure message. It first seemed to be having trouble when the machine had been off overnight, but now it is happening almost all the time. (This made me suspect a hardware issue.)

I am not overclocking the machine, which is running Windows 8.1. Just Memory Profile 1. OS Type Windows 8 WHQL, using IGFX (so no video card issues). Having the problem win or without secure boot, with or without CSM, with or without fast boot. No new hardware since it was working fine.

BIOS G16G (but I confirmed that the same thing happens with F7, F12, F14, F16F).
I also confirmed that the same thing happens when using the backup BIOS.
I tried a replacement power supply, no difference.
I ran Mem Test, no problems there.

I am also having trouble shutting down and thought this could be related. When the power light goes out, the computer usually comes back on after a second and reboots. (Wake on Lan is diabled in BIOS, hybernation is turned off in Windows, Fast Startup is turned off in Windows, Also unchecked automatically restert on system failure in Windows.

I cleared CMOS and replaced the CMOS batttery.

I checked Event Viewer for critical errors and just found some Kernel Power event id 41 errors, but I've always seen these on this machine.

I haven't tried booting with a a Windows 7 OS. It's next on my list of things to try. I think I have an old system drive around somewhere.

I'm running out of ideas and would appreciate any suggestions.

Thank you,
Bob


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BobLeProf*
> 
> I'm having a new intermittent problem with my Z77X-US5H. It had been working fine for 1 1/2 years.
> On a cold boot, it now frequently fails to boot:
> 
> Boot Failure detected
> The system has experienced a boot failure possibly due to incorrect configuration. Previous setting in BIOS may not be compatible with current hardware state.
> 
> When I enter the BIOS after the failure, I read:
> CPU 3692.21
> BCLK 99.79
> Memory: 1596.78
> 
> On a boot that works, I read:
> CPU 3804.
> BCLK 100.12
> Memory 1868.
> 
> My BIOS settings look fine, even though I get the "incorrect configuration" message (IOW they are the same whether the boot worked or not). Though I may be missing something.
> 
> When I exit the bios after the failure without saving any changes (IOW without fixing or changing anything), the computer always boots normally into Windows and works fine.
> When I reboot, Windows restarts fine. However, if I enter the bios on a normal reboot from Windows, I sometimes get a failure message. It first seemed to be having trouble when the machine had been off overnight, but now it is happening almost all the time. (This made me suspect a hardware issue.)
> 
> I am not overclocking the machine, which is running Windows 8.1. Just Memory Profile 1. OS Type Windows 8 WHQL, using IGFX (so no video card issues). Having the problem win or without secure boot, with or without CSM, with or without fast boot. No new hardware since it was working fine.
> 
> BIOS G16G (but I confirmed that the same thing happens with F7, F12, F14, F16F).
> I also confirmed that the same thing happens when using the backup BIOS.
> I tried a replacement power supply, no difference.
> I ran Mem Test, no problems there.
> 
> I am also having trouble shutting down and thought this could be related. When the power light goes out, the computer usually comes back on after a second and reboots. (Wake on Lan is diabled in BIOS, hybernation is turned off in Windows, Fast Startup is turned off in Windows, Also unchecked automatically restert on system failure in Windows.
> 
> I cleared CMOS and replaced the CMOS batttery.
> 
> I checked Event Viewer for critical errors and just found some Kernel Power event id 41 errors, but I've always seen these on this machine.
> 
> I haven't tried booting with a a Windows 7 OS. It's next on my list of things to try. I think I have an old system drive around somewhere.
> 
> I'm running out of ideas and would appreciate any suggestions.
> 
> Thank you,
> Bob


Do you have a Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge CPU? I read that Sandy's have boot problems with these boards, and I've experienced it too. It's not really a problem, but much more so an inconvenience seeing as I have to manually power the system on and off a few times to get it to boot properly.

When you say cold boot, you're not talking about a sub-zero setup, are you?


----------



## BobLeProf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Do you have a Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge CPU? I read that Sandy's have boot problems with these boards, and I've experienced it too. It's not really a problem, but much more so an inconvenience seeing as I have to manually power the system on and off a few times to get it to boot properly.
> 
> When you say cold boot, you're not talking about a sub-zero setup, are you?


Ivy Bridge.

Not sub-zero. I keep the window closed. ;-)

I did find my old system hard drive with a clean install of Windows 8 (not 7). It seems to fix the problem. So now I am pretty much convinced that it is a Windows 8.1 issue (I doubt that the SSD is the problem). I think I'll try to find the time to do a clean install of 8.1 (I did the in place upgrade from 8 to 8.1, The kind of thing I generally prefer to avoid). Since the problem did not start when I did the upgrade and it seems to be getting worse, I figure it is MS garbage building up.

Still, I may be wrong. If it is just 8.1, I would have expected to see lots of similar complaints online since my system is pretty run of the mill. So any ideas are greatly appreciated.

Bob


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncola*
> 
> Hey anyone using an intel gpu notice.. when the computer wakes from sleep, windows aren't maximized anymore, they're all restored?? using windows 8.1


I noticed the same. I think it also happened if the screen went into standby, not only when the whole computer went to sleep. I did not manage to fix the problem. It was last summer I think, and I was using the newest Intel drivers of that time. It was on Windows 8.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BobLeProf*
> 
> Ivy Bridge.
> 
> Not sub-zero. I keep the window closed. ;-)
> 
> I did find my old system hard drive with a clean install of Windows 8 (not 7). It seems to fix the problem. So now I am pretty much convinced that it is a Windows 8.1 issue (I doubt that the SSD is the problem). I think I'll try to find the time to do a clean install of 8.1 (I did the in place upgrade from 8 to 8.1, The kind of thing I generally prefer to avoid). Since the problem did not start when I did the upgrade and it seems to be getting worse, I figure it is MS garbage building up.
> 
> Still, I may be wrong. If it is just 8.1, I would have expected to see lots of similar complaints online since my system is pretty run of the mill. So any ideas are greatly appreciated.
> 
> Bob


You mentioned F16f as the newest BIOS you tried in your earlier post. I see an F16g BIOS version for the UD5H here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647

This post shares the newest drivers for all chips used on the various Gigabyte boards: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html

Another thing you could do is, you could open a support ticket with Gigabyte and tell them that 8.1 does not work for you. It's possible that they simply won't ever work on this problem if no one tells them.

They might actually know exactly how to fix your problem. I had to try about four times to upgrade to 8.1 on my GA-Z77X-D3H before it would work right. All failures ended in me giving up and restoring a backup of 8. A newer BIOS and newer VIA and Qualcomm drivers fixed the problems for my board. I'm guessing there was no way to get it to work correctly myself. I had to wait on Gigabyte changing things on their end.

The first time upgrading to 8.1, I had networking not running right. I then tried installing 8.1 from scratch instead of upgrading, which fixed networking but broke audio. I could not get it to work, tried installing drivers in Safe Mode etc. Overall, I had to wait a month or two before it would work correctly.


----------



## ComputerNutt197

I just purchased a used GIGABYTE GA-Z77-DS3H I am hoping it is an ok Board Looks like it is probably the very low end board I`m wondering though I have an msata drive can that also be put into a 1xPCI-E? Looks close anyway I would like to install my os and regular used apps on it is there a way to do it with this board or can I plug this into my PCI-E slot on my current board somehow and just build a new computer with the GAz77-DS3H. I want the benifits of using this msata drive it is 180GB so It should easily take every thing I run with space left over any ideas I am new to anything to do with msata


----------



## DeXel

mSATA is connected to one of the SATA2 ports on the board. If you use mSATA, that port won't be usable.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerNutt197*
> 
> I just purchased a used GIGABYTE GA-Z77-DS3H I am hoping it is an ok Board Looks like it is probably the very low end board I`m wondering though I have an msata drive can that also be put into a 1xPCI-E? Looks close anyway I would like to install my os and regular used apps on it is there a way to do it with this board or can I plug this into my PCI-E slot on my current board somehow and just build a new computer with the GAz77-DS3H. I want the benifits of using this msata drive it is 180GB so It should easily take every thing I run with space left over any ideas I am new to anything to do with msata


You seem a little confused about this mSATA stuff, perhaps because of how the drive looks when you hold it in your hand? It has nothing to do with PCI-E. It needs an mSATA slot. On that board you chose, there is such a slot. It's next to the CPU socket.


----------



## ComputerNutt197

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> You seem a little confused about this mSATA stuff, perhaps because of how the drive looks when you hold it in your hand? It has nothing to do with PCI-E. It needs an mSATA slot. On that board you chose, there is such a slot. It's next to the CPU socket.


I noticed that I also been reading as the board is not running yet that there at least was no way to turn up the CPU V Core which was a waste of money for me what I was asking is can I buy some kind of adapter to use Msata on my Current board I guess I will just sell the Gigabyte Board because if I cannot overclock it with my chip then I might as well stick with this crappy P67A-GD55 board at least I can increase voltage and overclock my i5 2500k I was thinking of buying a i7-3770k for the Gigabyte board but I was confused I did not want the GA-Z77-DS3H I wanted the GA-Z77-UD3P I think it was was in a hurry


----------



## deepor

I guess this thing should work and you can use it as if it's a normal SATA SSD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812186184


----------



## ComputerNutt197

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> I guess this thing should work and you can use it as if it's a normal SATA SSD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812186184


yeah that is cheap and should work!


----------



## mixolyd

Hey guys,

Seems like EasyTune isn't popular around here and many recommend uninstalling it. The only reason I keep it around is to control my fan speeds. What do you guys use for that instead?


----------



## DeXel

Speedfan works fine.


----------



## frag85

Speedfan. Def speedfan.


----------



## ComputerNutt197

Has anyone found a way to increase the V Core on the Z77-DS3H?


----------



## ComputerNutt197

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> You seem a little confused about this mSATA stuff, perhaps because of how the drive looks when you hold it in your hand? It has nothing to do with PCI-E. It needs an mSATA slot. On that board you chose, there is such a slot. It's next to the CPU socket.


Well I got the board all set up no Problems installed the Operating system on the Msata in the msata slot on the board,
worked great for hours but I could not see my sata II drive although it was connected properly.
I ran this for hours really quick to and I only put a i3-2100 in it fast with this mSata drive it is a intel 120GB boot time from cold start probably around 10 seconds.

Well after I went into the bios changed a few settings and rebooted I had to enable the disabled port the drive was plugged into it started up fine then I went back into the bios again and did not understand all these setting about UEFI first or Legacy and UEFI there are a bunch of them wish I would have saved my configuration but I did not think I would need it. now no matter what I do it will not boot on the msata no more I pulled the battery out for awhile figuring a reset would do it but no go did that twice actually loaded optimized defaults also. I am at a complete loss I do not know what I did but it worked fine right away now it does not go anywhere. any Ideas?


----------



## Heruur

Didnt want to read through 600+ pages, but Im having an issue with the marvell controller on the board (z77x-d3h). I can hook up a drive to each port, but they arent both visible in bios. I tested each port by hooking up a device and they are seen; is there something else causing this?


----------



## ComputerNutt197

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heruur*
> 
> Didnt want to read through 600+ pages, but Im having an issue with the marvell controller on the board (z77x-d3h). I can hook up a drive to each port, but they arent both visible in bios. I tested each port by hooking up a device and they are seen; is there something else causing this?


check in the bios under sata settings I think on my board the port was disabled when I rebooted the drive showed up after enabling the sata controller for that port.


----------



## bodean

Can someone explain to me what Marvell Tray is? I have it installed, but not sure I need it at all. It looks like it's a browser-based RAID management utility for Marvell RAID controllers. I do not run RAID on my PC, running in AHCI.


----------



## deNordic

How/where do i configure Fast Boot Option (ultra fast etc?) . Did they remove it ? Bios F14 here.


----------



## DeXel

You need BETA BIOSes, F15 and up. I recommend F16 or F16g.

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html


----------



## dougb62

I have a quick question. I am currently searching everything I can think of, but as I'm in a hurry, I thought I'd post here and see if an answer pops up before I find it elsewhere.

I have the gigabyte Z77x-UD5H mobo w/ 2x gtx 660's and am getting ~85,000 KH/s keccak, and 245 KH/s Scrypt (irrelevant). What I would like to do is (if I hurry b4 it's gone) install one of the new gxt 750ti's. But, I am not sure that this mobo will like the third card? Does anyone have any info on this? Anyone running more than 2 GPU's on this mobo?

Thanks!


----------



## DeXel

If you install it in the last X4, the second slot will drop to x4, so technically you won't be able to enable SLI.

For mining purposes; however, you can use 750 on PCI-E x1 slot with a riser cable, so everything should be fine.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> If you install it in the last X4, the second slot will drop to x4, so technically you won't be able to enable SLI.
> 
> For mining purposes; however, you can use 750 on PCI-E x1 slot with a riser cable, so everything should be fine.


Yeah - no gaming for now, so don't care about SLI. I wasn't even thinking about the dual-slot factor, so I'm glad you mentioned the riser.

Very helpful - Thank You +1


----------



## deNordic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You need BETA BIOSes, F15 and up. I recommend F16 or F16g.
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html


thanks it works with F16g


----------



## Opelee

I have a question about the Z77-UD5H SYS_FAN 2 & 3.

Are these 4 pin controlled base on the CPU temp or the ambient temp inside the PC case? Just curious.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opelee*
> 
> I have a question about the Z77-UD5H SYS_FAN 2 & 3.
> 
> Are these 4 pin controlled base on the CPU temp or the ambient temp inside the PC case? Just curious.


I answered that in great detail about 100 pages back.


----------



## Snakes

Hey guys. I've owned a UD5H for a few years and just recently upgraded to Windows 8.1 from 7. I've been noticing that when I unplug my speakers from the green port at the back and plug in my headphones, often the mixer will switch into optical mode. Then I have to mess around with the mixer software in the task tray and try to set it back to regular output or I can't get any sound.

I'd been using the Realtek driver on the Gigabyte website which is version 3.75 but I recently found a newer version 3.78 on a Realtek website but updating didn't solve the problem.

Not sure if this was related but I recently started having issues with playing back Youtube videos and then iTunes was complaining about my hardware setup. I deduced that it was my audio driver and that's when I updated/reinstalled the driver to 3.78, which cleared up those playback issues.

Has anyone experienced this issue with it switching into optical mode, or know how I can fix it? Thanks.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> Hey guys. I've owned a UD5H for a few years and just recently upgraded to Windows 8.1 from 7. I've been noticing that when I unplug my speakers from the green port at the back and plug in my headphones, often the mixer will switch into optical mode. Then I have to mess around with the mixer software in the task tray and try to set it back to regular output or I can't get any sound.
> 
> I'd been using the Realtek driver on the Gigabyte website which is version 3.75 but I recently found a newer version 3.78 on a Realtek website but updating didn't solve the problem.
> 
> Not sure if this was related but I recently started having issues with playing back Youtube videos and then iTunes was complaining about my hardware setup. I deduced that it was my audio driver and that's when I updated/reinstalled the driver to 3.78, which cleared up those playback issues.
> 
> Has anyone experienced this issue with it switching into optical mode, or know how I can fix it? Thanks.


If you don't use the opticals, you should be able to disable them and it will instead switch the default sound device to another sound device. Are you unplugging and plugging in to switch between headset and speakers?


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> If you don't use the opticals, you should be able to disable them and it will instead switch the default sound device to another sound device. Are you unplugging and plugging in to switch between headset and speakers?


Yes, I'm switching between headphone and speakers, using the green port for both. I guess there's an audio jack on the front panel of my case but it's not convenient for me. I think I've disabled the optical device in Windows but it kept happening, I can't say that with 100% certainty though.

I definitely have Speakers set as default device, as opposed to "digital output (optical)" and "digital output" in the Realtek HD audio manager.

Okay I just disabled the two digital devices in Device Manager, something I haven't tried yet. Will see how that goes, thanks.


----------



## JRuxGaming

With the Realtek HD Audio Manager you can make the front panel connector and the ports in the back separate. I do this so I can switch between headset and speakers just by changing the default device in the Playback Devices.

Edit: Here is a screenshot that makes me easier to understand.









Spoiler: Screenshot




In the Realtek HD Audio Manager you just select Device Advanced settings and the second choice in the window that appears.


----------



## Snakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> With the Realtek HD Audio Manager you can make the front panel connector and the ports in the back separate. I do this so I can switch between headset and speakers just by changing the default device in the Playback Devices.
> 
> Edit: Here is a screenshot that makes me easier to understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Screenshot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Realtek HD Audio Manager you just select Device Advanced settings and the second choice in the window that appears.


I'll check that out but I'm not sure I'll make use of it considering my front panel is in an awkward position. If it solves my problem then maybe I'll have to start using it. Thanks.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakes*
> 
> I'll check that out but I'm not sure I'll make use of it considering my front panel is in an awkward position. If it solves my problem then maybe I'll have to start using it. Thanks.


Yeah. I went out and spent a few dollars on an 3.5mm extension cord because, like you, my computer is in an awkward position as well.


----------



## Xtinction

Hi guys, I just saw a few posts considering the SB+Z77 gigabyte line to be a problem with boot loops etc. This is also what I am experiencing. Is there any solution or are we accepting it as "thats just how it is". Is Gigabye offering RMA on this? I'd happily trade in this board for a 68 if it would relieve me of this startup nonsense.


----------



## deepor

Do you mean it does not work at all anymore? If that's what's happening to you, if you want the backup BIOS chip to take over and flash the main BIOS chip, you power on by holding down the power button and keeping it pressed. After a few seconds, the PC will turn off again. At this point, the next time you power on, you'll see a screen from the backup BIOS asking you what you want it to do.

If you mean you just have strange boot problems that are sometimes there and sometimes not or whatever, you should try a different BIOS. Theoretically, you'd best contact Gigabyte's tech support and ask them what to do so that they know about the problem. It won't ever get fixed if no one contacts them, you know.









The other thing you could do is trying a bunch of beta BIOS versions yourself. There's a collection in this post here:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647

Those are all BIOS versions that were given out by Gigabyte's tech support to people that went and asked for help with a problem. No one knows what the changes are in the various versions.


----------



## Xtinction

It's the second one









You're right of course, but I felt like after 600-something pages, there would have been a conclusion about this issue







, It's a pretty old board by now, wasnt sure if they were still in the habit of supporting it. Just feel a bit defeated after replacing my PSU and mobo and still not making any progress whatsoever.


----------



## DeXel

The conclusion is that this board don't suffer from boot loops in general. You're like the 5th person who experiences those with these boards. Describe your boot loops. When did they start? After OC? After the build? You changed something? Most of the time it's incompatible RAM or bad OC.


----------



## Xtinction

Ok, here's my story









My pc:
Gigabyte Z77X-D3H
2500K Sandy bridge @ stock/4.3ghz
Club3D 7870XT, overclocked
8 GB Kingston XPS 1600
Asus Xonar XT
Samsung 120g SSD
WD 3TB HD
Corsair 600CX & Tagan 480

The problem is the following:
1. When I start my PC after having left it off for about an hour and it POSTS, it will hang when booting windows, no BSOD, USB devices lose power.
2. After resetting, it usually gets into a boot loop. Starting, no post, restarting, no post etc.

The problem can be completely and 100% solved (meaning NEVER hang in windows and ALWAYS post) by:
1. In problem 1's case, I go into the BIOS, wait a minute, don't save and exit. This makes it boot just fine
2. in problem 2's case, I unplug the power cord for about 10 seconds, plug it back in, and it will boot just fine. Without unplugging, it will stay in boot loop mode.
3. The problem can also be solved by loading optimized defaults, and not overclocking. Not AT ALL. So heightening the multiplier by 1 (from 3.3 to 3.4 ghz) already causes this issue.

Once the PC is running, there are no issues whatsoever. It has never crashed, it runs superPi at 4.3ghz without any issues, can play games on it all night long. When it boots into windows and doesnt hang right after login, it will stay rock solid.

What I have done to try to fix the problem:
1. New PSU. Obviously the first thing I tried. Didnt help.
2. New Motherboard. Got the same motherboard so I didnt have to reinstall windows. Didnt help, exactly the same issues occur.
3. Booting without audio and video card, nope
4. Bios: tried F10 (no video from video card), F16 and F18i, all the same behaviour.
5. Loading optimized defaults: works fine until I touch the multiplier, then problems start again.

The reason I dont believe there is anything wrong with the system like Bad memory, unstable overclock etc. is because it is rock solid when it boots. If you have any suggestions at all, I'd love to hear it!

Jaap

(one more note: I have a fan controller with a little powered screen. On every unstable boot (meaning one that doesn't POST or one that is gonna crash windows) I always see it blink several times during the startup procedure. Not blinking is pretty much an indicator of a good boot. This made me suspect the power supply, but after replacing that the issue didnt go away. It's still weird though...)


----------



## DeXel

I am not exactly sure what causes your issues then. I wish OCN had a search of users with the same components, so it can be clarified whether they have the same issues. However, like I said RAM can cause weird boot issues sometimes and its one of the things you didn't try. Even if you try, there is no guarantee that that was the culprit.

Can you test your components somewhere else?


----------



## Xtinction

Hmmm DDR3 testing is a bit hard for me, and it wouldnt explain why everything works just fine as long as i dont touch the multiplier. It's worth a shot I guess, maybe at the next LAN-party I attend...


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xtinction*
> 
> Hi guys, I just saw a few posts considering the SB+Z77 gigabyte line to be a problem with boot loops etc. This is also what I am experiencing. Is there any solution or are we accepting it as "thats just how it is". Is Gigabye offering RMA on this? I'd happily trade in this board for a 68 if it would relieve me of this startup nonsense.


I feel your pain. I'm running a 2500k on the ud5h and had boot loops with lots of different bios and ram combinations. Finally I found f16c-mod5 on tweaktown one day and gave it a shot.

It's been around 4 months and not a SINGLE boot loop. This bios was my computers personal jesus. I linked you to the bios below.

http://www.filedropper.com/z77xud5h11mod516c

Just one of many betas floating around, but solved my SB on the ud5h boot loop issues. Good luck man!


----------



## Xtinction

He he thanks man, unfortunately I haven't found my messIOS yet







Too bad I don't have the same board as you


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xtinction*
> 
> He he thanks man, unfortunately I haven't found my messIOS yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad I don't have the same board as you


Ha, my bad man. I missed your long post and thought I read ud5h. My apologies again, hope you find that right bios.


----------



## leethompson2k2

Hi guys,

I know this is off the current topic, however after nearly two months of back and forth to GA support, they've finally just managed to get my GA-Z77X-UD3H up and running with my Crucial 1866MHz Ballistix Tactical Tracer memory - It was stuck on an infinite boot loop since changing from a faulty MSI board to this GA board - they asked me to update to F20e which also didn't work, they then sent me a firmware to try out "z77xud3h.bin" and jobs a good'n!









Just thought I'd post it on here as after I got the GA board and it didn't work with the RAM, I quickly found a number of threads on numerous forums including this one (hence why I signed up) with people with the same issue with the same modules, so just a heads up that there's now something for you to try









A big thumbs up to the support teams at Gigabyte for not just responding with "your memory isn't on the QVL list so tough *****!" and for working on what I presume is a beta firmware with a working XMP profile for these modules


----------



## rebl

Hello all,
I've also have a *Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H* and had back in 2012 the infamous continuous reboot loop (took me a day to solve it) and debug code 15 (iirc) - then I had a Celeron Dual Core G530 and 2GB 1600 PQI Turbo RAM (possibly @1.65V). Meanwhile I bought an *Intel i5-3570K* and it came with a huge dilemma. Could you please, please folks help me with some advice(s)?
I want to upgrade my RAM to 2x4GB but...
1. Should I buy 1.65V RAM and run it ("over-volted") at 1.65V RAM? There are XMP profiles @1.65V but Gigabyte says 1.5V only!
2. Will 1.65V RAM cause instability/lockups? I've read tens of pages on the web warning about this.
3. Will 1.65V RAM damage (in time) the Ivy Bridge CPU (its internal memory controller)?Again, there are multiple sources claiming this. Intel's and JEDEC's and Gigabyte's specifications, while they all do somehow "allow" overclocking, they definitelly warn about keeping voltage no higher than 1.5V.
4. Even if I decide to risk and go the 1.65V route, will my board be able to run 1866 or 2400 MHz? According to gigabyte, only 1333/1600 and 2800 (!sic) are supported. What about the values inbetween? Only 1600 and 2800 are valid?
5. I'm completely puzzled. Or mabe is it better to stick to 1.5V RAM? But even 1.5V ram (the FURY kit suggested by Kingston's configurator) runs @ 1866 - will my board be able to do that???
These are the modules I have to choose from:
HyperX Beast 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model KHX24C11T3K2/8X
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104373
newegg price $95 / my price $89
XMP TIMING PARAMETERS
• JEDEC: DDR3-1333 CL9-9-9 @1.5V
• XMP Profile #1: D3-2400 CL11-13-13 @1.65V
• XMP Profile #2: D3-2133 CL11-12-11 @1.6V

HyperX Beast 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model KHX16C9T3K2/8X
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104362
newegg price $77 / my price $96
XMP TIMING PARAMETERS
• JEDEC: DDR3-1600 CL11-11-11 @1.5V
• XMP Profile #1: D3-1600 CL9-9-9 @1.65V

HyperX Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model HX318C10FBK2/8
PnP JEDEC TIMING PARAMETERS:
• DDR3-1866 CL10-11-10 @1.5V
• DDR3-1600 CL9-10-9 @1.5V
• DDR3-1333 CL8-9-8 @1.5V
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-104-460
newegg price $78 / my price $101, launched in April 2014

Many thanks in advance for taking the time to read all this (that is, if you reached this point you are a hero







) !
Kind Regards,
Reb


----------



## deepor

The board actually has sensors for all parts of the VRM including a separate sensor that looks at the part for RAM (use the program HWINFO to see those). Even when using something like 1.75V for example, the VRM always stays pretty cool. The RAM also can't really eat more than 20W of power or so according to those sensors (I don't quite remember my 1.75V experiments). It seems everything about that is overall pretty boring and if you look on the board, there's actually no heat-sink for those parts and things are still always cold.

You can also touch the memory sticks while the PC is running and you'll see they are never burning hot, only warm.

Here's the most power I could get the RAM to use trying various benchmarks and stress tests just now at 1.52V:



This is with a GA-Z77X-D3H.

If 2400 MHz runs stable or not depends on your CPU. I don't think the board has much to do with it, is only providing power. All the communication to the sticks is done by the CPU itself. I have no experience with 2400MHz RAM and what to do if it doesn't want to run right (I assume you'd try to raise some of those other voltage settings of the CPU beside VCore).


----------



## rebl

Thank you deepor, then leaving the 1.5/1.65V problem aside and assuming 1.65 won't do any damage, what would be faster?
D3-2400 CL11-13-13 @1.65V
or
• JEDEC: DDR3-1600 CL11-11-11 @1.5V
• XMP Profile #1: D3-1600 CL9-9-9 @1.65V
or maybe...
• DDR3-1866 CL10-11-10 @1.5V
?

I asume the first one, but this seems too good to be true because it's also the cheapest (I've already ordered it and can pick it from the shop on my way home) and I'm hesitant.

Would HyperX Beast 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model KHX24C11T3K2/8X be the *BEAST* deal (pun intended) AND ALSO WORK in my board @ really 2400, or even 2133 CL11? I won't mind, but it's not clear for me if the Z77X only supports 1600 AND 2800 (OC) or also the frequencies between...


----------



## deepor

Even if timings would be bad, 2400MHz would still be best because of more memory bandwidth, but the timings here are actually also better than on the 1600MHz stuff.

Those CL9 and 10 timings are slower in real time than those CL11 at 2400MHz. The numbers are counting clock cycles. You have to divide them by the MHz if you want to compare them. A smaller number is better when comparing, means things are done faster. The 2400MHz is really faster in any way you look at it. I guess it does that with the best price partly because it's overclocked more aggressively through those 1.65V.

All steps will run. There are a lot of multipliers between those numbers you mention and they are all possible to configure in the BIOS. If you enable one of the XMP profiles on the memory sticks, everything will be set up automatically.


----------



## rebl

Well I bought the 2400 MHz Hyper X 'cos it was already waiting for me in the shop and it was also the cheapest.
It works @1600Mhz & 1.5V with CL11 iirc. Unfortunatelly going down from 2400 and 1.65V to 1600 MHz and 1.5V does not lower latency much.
There are kits with 1600 and CL9 @1,5V but about 15% more expensive (in my currency, 320 vs 286).
I've also tested XMP and it really works at 2400 !
I'm posting the SPD table maybe others are looking for more information (on their website, the 1600 MHz JEDEC profile is not listed).
KHX24C11T3K2/8X :


Installed a Zalman X10 Performa and see if I can go to 1866 and keep 1.5V


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebl*
> 
> Well I bought the 2400 MHz Hyper X 'cos it was already waiting for me in the shop and it was also the cheapest.
> It works @1600Mhz & 1.5V with CL11 iirc. Unfortunatelly going down from 2400 and 1.65V to 1600 MHz and 1.5V does not lower latency much.
> There are kits with 1600 and CL9 @1,5V but about 15% more expensive (in my currency, 320 vs 286).
> I've also tested XMP and it really works at 2400 !
> I'm posting the SPD table maybe others are looking for more information (on their website, the 1600 MHz JEDEC profile is not listed).
> KHX24C11T3K2/8X :
> 
> 
> Installed a Zalman X10 Performa and see if I can go to 1866 and keep 1.5V


IDK how much time and/or research you've done with Z77 but ram doesn't make a huge difference, mostly only in benchmarks. 1600mhz is about the sweet spot until you hit like 2400+ with tight timings (even then it's to the point where it hardly justifies the price difference).


----------



## killacam7478

Hi Everyone,

I had a random question and not sure if anyone knew the answer. I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H. The LED-type light that shows the code in red (sorry, not sure what that thing is called) looks like it's a fuzzy black material when you look closely at it. Do you know if it will be damaged if I put something on it? My thought was to use some blue cellophane and gently tape it on top of that because the theme of my build is blue, but that red light is one of the few things that is a different color. Any input is appreciated!


----------



## Geezerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killacam7478*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I had a random question and not sure if anyone knew the answer. I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H. The LED-type light that shows the code in red (sorry, not sure what that thing is called) looks like it's a fuzzy black material when you look closely at it. Do you know if it will be damaged if I put something on it? My thought was to use some blue cellophane and gently tape it on top of that because the theme of my build is blue, but that red light is one of the few things that is a different color. Any input is appreciated!


I know on some of the Asrock Z77 boards you can turn off that LED in the bios. It turns off after it posts.


----------



## killacam7478

Oh cool, didn't think of that solution, but probably easier than taping on cellophane, haha! Thanks!


----------



## NitrousX

Hey guys,

I just upgraded to a Sniper G1. Sniper 3 board and for my RAM seems to be stuck at 1333MHz. I've enabled XMP and nothing has changed. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Edit: I was able to get my RAM to run at 2400MHz after I reflashed the bios. Weird.

Edit2: For some reason my GPU's are detected as running at x16 x16 PCIE 2.0 mode. Does anyone know why this is? This board has a PLX chip.


----------



## bodean

I've noticed that if I boot via UEFI I can't boot into Windows 8. But if I boot via p0 option, it works fine. This normal behavior for my board?


----------



## DeXel

Did you install Windows 8 in the UEFI mode? UEFI works fine on these boards.


----------



## bodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Did you install Windows 8 in the UEFI mode? UEFI works fine on these boards.


Yes installed windows 8 under UEFI. Ill have to investigate further
Also, is there much difference between the 2 modes besides boot time?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bodean*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Did you install Windows 8 in the UEFI mode? UEFI works fine on these boards.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes installed windows 8 under UEFI. Ill have to investigate further
> Also, is there much difference between the 2 modes besides boot time?
Click to expand...

With MBR, the boot loader is hidden at the start of the drive, outside of the partitions. There's a limit of four "primary" partitions. There's some sort of 2TB size limit.

With UEFI, the partitioning scheme is called "GPT". The UEFI BIOS searches for a FAT32 formatted partition at boot. That's where it gets the boot loaders. The error you see probably means that the partition simply isn't there and it can't find the boot loader.

When installing Windows 8, if it finds empty room on the drive, it will create a whole bunch of strange partitions on an UEFI machine. It's perhaps important to delete all partitions on the drive so that the installation program works right.

Here's a screenshot of my first drive:



There's actually another hidden partition called "MSR" that Disk Management isn't showing.

Compare that with your drive. MBR can have one single partition on the drive and nothing else.

To convert a drive between MBR and GPT, there's an option in the right-click menu for the drive (on the left side where it says "Disk 0"). That option is grayed out until you delete all partitions on the drive.


----------



## 8skyline7

Hello all









I purchased a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H with Intel i5 3570k processor and the problem is that my graphics card ( Sapphire 7950 ) only works with gen 2. With gen 3 is only black screen. So it works only in pci-e 2.0 x16 and not 3.0 x16
I tried all BIOSes for the motherboard but it doesnt work.

Please help me.


----------



## frag85

Weird, it should work in a PCI-Express 3 slot, they are backwards compatible.

I have 2 7970s and my bios is set up for Gen3, no issues on bios versions F16 through F20. Might be a bad setting or your motherboard or PCI slot are bad. Do you have the bios settings for the GPU (forgot what they are off the top of my head) set up for the PCIE slots and not the onboard GPU? There's a setting that should be auto or set up for PEG1 (for 1st slot, PEG2 for 2nd slot). You might want to try those.

EDIT: Also, what connection are you using? When I have a DP monitor plugged in, only that one will turn on and the DVI and HDMI ports won't display anything, and the on-board ports are blank as well in that case. If you can try different ports on the card if you have the cables/adapters to do so.


----------



## 8skyline7

The card works if I put it to the x8 slot. So 3.0 x8 works but if I put it to the x16 slot it works only with gen 2 so 2.0 x16

I have tried all settings but no luck and I use DVI cable.

I saw in the forums that lots of people have the same problem.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1714412/problem-gigabyte-z87x-ud3h-pci-slot.html

Here is one.

The solution should be:

Gigabyte
Hit DEL key to enter BIOS. Under BIOS Features, go to PCI ROM Priority, change from 'EFI compatible' to Legacy. Also under Init Display First make sure this is set for PCIe Slot1, save and then exit.

But I ask myself why works all fine with 2500K and it is also PCI ROM Priority set to EFI compatible not Legacy.

I have 2500K installed now and the card works normal in x16 slot but 2.0 pcie because of the cpu.


----------



## deepor

2500k has no PCI-E 3.0, so that's why it then automatically can only try 2.0 x16. So whatever the bug is, it then avoids it because of that. That would be my explanation why there's only a problem with the 3570k.

That UEFI talk, if you don't know what that's about, that's a new style of BIOS. It wants a different style of BIOS modules from the expansion cards. The one for the graphics card is called UEFI GOP. There might be a graphics card vBIOS update that introduces that for your 7950.

The UEFI BIOS can also use the old style BIOS with the expansion cards. It does that through that "Legacy" mode it has.

What happens if you make sure that Legacy will be tried first for the graphics card? Does 3.0 x16 work like that or do you again have to manually force 2.0?

You could perhaps try to flash an UEFI GOP update for your graphics card, but I'm skeptical about that idea. I bet it does not work. Also, if the card does not work with UEFI GOP, it'll be a headache trying to flash the old BIOS back onto it (works through using the integrated graphics to get to the Windows desktop).

I'd contact Gigabyte technical support and explain the problem. If they forward the problem to the actual BIOS programmers and stuff, they might have a solution and give you a changed beta where it works.


----------



## 8skyline7

I will install 3570k back and choose the Legacy option and hope for the best









I contacted Gigabyte and now I am waiting for the answer. I hope they reply


----------



## deepor

About that Legacy stuff... that post you found about PCI-E OROM sounds weird to me. I think that option only does something for things like a network controller (for booting from network) or some other sort of controller card. The Legacy option for the graphics card should be a separate option.

I know the looks for all those options changed for my Z77X board on the various different beta BIOS versions that were released. It's where you set if you have Windows 8 or not. It might say something about "CSM" = compatibility support module. I don't quite remember and don't want to reboot to look.


----------



## frag85

Hm. Interesting. I'll have to check my settings now.

With a 3570, I never had issues when I installed either of my 7970s by themselves in slot 1 (PCI 3 x16) or slot 1 and 2 (PCI 3 x8x8).


----------



## 8skyline7

2x 7970 is 3.0 x8 for each card so this works for me too.

Check only one card in x16 slot if it runs normal.

Which mobo do you use?


----------



## Necrogeddon

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and owner of a Z77X-UD5H for about a year and a half. I never had any problems, a monster of motherboard if you ask me, until recently I run into a corrupt primary bios and it cost me a bit to straighten it out and get it working again (endless loop upon powering). Anyways, I am now running the beta F16g bios, my question is which is the best bios currently worth flashing my mobo? Many thanks lads, cheers!


----------



## DeXel

F16g is imho the best.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> F16g is imho the best.


F14 is the best for me. USB devices feel WAY different on F15 and F16 for some reason on the UD5H. Feels like the difference between using interpolated + non-interpolated mouse settings.


----------



## DeXel

r0ach, I've seen your gaming related threads, and I must say I'm not that sensitive as you about mouse movements, input lag and etc, or maybe I just got used to what there is. I do better in BF3/4 that most pubs out there with my G9x (which I believe has mouse acceleration?). So yea YMMV.

F15+ add Windows 8 related stuff, so they're more beneficial to me. And F16 or F16g finally got those working without bugs.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> r0ach, I've seen your gaming related threads, and I must say I'm not that sensitive as you about mouse movements, input lag and etc, or maybe I just got used to what there is. I do better in BF3/4 that most pubs out there with my G9x (which I believe has mouse acceleration?). So yea YMMV.
> 
> F15+ add Windows 8 related stuff, so they're more beneficial to me. And F16 or F16g finally got those working without bugs.


Why would anyone use Win 8 for gaming? It has vsync forced on at the desktop & vsync forced on for borderless windowed mode. Those two factors alone keep me from using it since I can't stand vsync even while browsing the internet, and I run most games in borderless window mode instead of full screen as well.


----------



## DeXel

1) Majority of people don't play games in borderless.
2) You seem to be hyper sensitive to this kind of stuff. I just don't see it.

Are you playing competitive or hard-core casual?


----------



## nimitz87

does anyone have a working F14 bios file they could send me? seems the links at tweaktown to the gigabyte website aren't working, or its just gigabyte.

been having a few issues and wanted to update the bios.

thanks in advance

Chad


----------



## DeXel

It's on the Gigabyte's website.


----------



## Boinz

Can I join the club? Just snagged a z77-ds3h rev 1.1.


----------



## frag85

I've been searching around and I'm confused when it comes to the Z77x-*UD3H* and the '3x USB Power' and 'on/off charge' ports.

Which ports is it on the *UD3H*? There is no 'red' USB headers for external USB ports, and no rear ports are labeled as such, so I'm assuming it uses one of the USB3 ports on the back? That is what it sounds like from some older posts at least.

The board supports 3x USB Power and on/off charge features, but there isn't any mention in the manual about which ports or how to use it.

My MotoX android phone isn't charging when I sleep/power off the system (ErP is disabled and I can wake on land and with the keyboard/mouse), and I'm only seeing 200-300mV current going to it when charging (it also charges at the same rate as my old laptops)


----------



## deepor

On my Z77X-D3H (which is perhaps pretty similar), the case front panel USB ports are plugged into F_USB1 and it works (I mean, the PC is shut down and phone still charges).

There's also a tool to download and install related to ON/OFF Charge on the Gigabyte website, but I don't know what it does. I had it installed at some point but reinstalled Windows a long time ago without again installing that tool, and it still works with the charging.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> I've been searching around and I'm confused when it comes to the Z77x-*UD3H* and the '3x USB Power' and 'on/off charge' ports.
> 
> Which ports is it on the *UD3H*? There is no 'red' USB headers for external USB ports, and no rear ports are labeled as such, so I'm assuming it uses one of the USB3 ports on the back? That is what it sounds like from some older posts at least.
> 
> The board supports 3x USB Power and on/off charge features, but there isn't any mention in the manual about which ports or how to use it.
> 
> My MotoX android phone isn't charging when I sleep/power off the system (ErP is disabled and I can wake on land and with the keyboard/mouse), and I'm only seeing 200-300mV current going to it when charging (it also charges at the same rate as my old laptops)


I don't know about how it is on your board but my UD5H it is the USB1 internal header that has the special charging feature and is red in color


----------



## Megolidon

Hey guys, I'm already an user of this forum, made this account for a friend to make things easer.

He had troubles with his old motherboard, so we bought a a z77x ud3h, I tested his graphic card (hd 7970) on my pc it's working fine)

I tryed to boot on a tv screen with hdmi there was nothing black screen, so I did some quick google search and found a post in this thread !

He basically said to boot from integrated graphics, install windows (which was already installed) and then install graphic drivers fortunatly I had an older screen with agp port on it.. and it booted on this one, ok , the graphic card isn't detected though, tryed disabling the integrated gpu, same stuff.

Of course first thing I did was uninstalling AMD drivers (which I think I should have just did a repair) I also removed the traces of amd both manually and with the app from guru 3d (can't remember the name) still no success

Also in BIOS in miscellaneous settings I tryed to put GEN2 as someone recommended in another forum, still no success..

In device manager only the HD3000 shows, not the graphic card, so we're a bit desperate any help would much appreciated !


----------



## deepor

Did you try updating the BIOS? The board might be using an ancient version by default.


----------



## Megolidon

Thanks for your answer,

My BIOS was the : FA

(so I have a rev 1.2 .. which I didnt even know I looked arround on the box to see I couldn't find)

So what's the point of making a rev 1.2 if it doesn't detect my card







unless the board is faulty of course..

I gonna try to install the last one FBb , hope that works !

EDIT: tryed to update the BIOS with the @BIOS program, either the server or from the file didn't work..

When trying to click on the .exe in the bios file it says it isn't compatible with the windows version or something


----------



## Megolidon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8skyline7*
> 
> The card works if I put it to the x8 slot. So 3.0 x8 works but if I put it to the x16 slot it works only with gen 2 so 2.0 x16
> 
> I have tried all settings but no luck and I use DVI cable.
> 
> I saw in the forums that lots of people have the same problem.
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1714412/problem-gigabyte-z87x-ud3h-pci-slot.html
> 
> Here is one.
> 
> The solution should be:
> 
> Gigabyte
> Hit DEL key to enter BIOS. Under BIOS Features, go to PCI ROM Priority, change from 'EFI compatible' to Legacy. Also under Init Display First make sure this is set for PCIe Slot1, save and then exit.
> 
> But I ask myself why works all fine with 2500K and it is also PCI ROM Priority set to EFI compatible not Legacy.
> 
> I have 2500K installed now and the card works normal in x16 slot but 2.0 pcie because of the cpu.


I tryed that, didn't work, and in the Display first tab I don't have any PCIe only PCI, so..? dead x16 PCIe port ?? I'm contacting the support too..


----------



## 8bitG33k

My apologies for butting in, but is there is a list with the newest drivers for this board available anywhere?


----------



## deepor

There's nothing for these boards exactly, but there's a collection of the newest drivers for all parts used on Gigabyte boards in general in the second post of this thread here:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html

Gigabyte also updated the download sections on the webpages of these boards shortly after Windows 8.1 came out it seems, so that's also pretty new stuff. There were also newer BIOS versions released.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Ok thanks very much for that link deepor!

Is it possible to have AHCI enabled along with RAID? I ask because I have a RAID 0 array, but I also just purchased an SSD. The Samsung magician software tells me I should have AHCI enabled in the BIOS, but enabling AHCI that also seems to wipe out my RAID array.

I suppose I'd have to forego hardware RAID and just go with Windows RAID with no way of preserving any of the current data?


----------



## deepor

AHCI is a sub-set of RAID. The current Intel drivers should send those TRIM command to the SSD so everything should be fine.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> AHCI is a sub-set of RAID. The current Intel drivers should send those TRIM command to the SSD so everything should be fine.


Oh. I didn't realize AHCI wasn't necessary. I was just going off of what the Samsung Magician software was telling me. I'll just leave it as it is then!









EDIT: Ok now I'm getting error messages (RAID enabled in BIOS). Instead of my Samsung SSD and 1 RAID array, Samsung Magician now thinks both drives are a Samsung SSD and Windows Computer management shows the real SSD as having only 38MB (but it shows the correct size under My Computer). I tried editing the registry as well (Msahci=0) but that didn't seem to do anything.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Not sure what's going on with that error message now. And Intel RST isn't working either now.

Oh well, it's about time for a fresh Windows install anyway! Hopefully the boards USB drivers will work this time around - I never was able to get them all working properly. A real shame GA uses those sucky VIA USB controllers for this board. I might try just the Intel drivers next time instead of both, I think they conflict with one another.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Sorry for all the posts...









What is the best way to reinstall Windows 7 with an SSD and a RAID array? Some of the drivers are supposed to be installed from a floppy but I dont have one. Does it matter?

Also, do I need the Intel Preinstall Sata driver? It's on the Gigabyte website, but not on the Tweaktown website. It seems then it is not needed? Especially since I dont have a floppy anyway?

edit: for the F6 method I just slipstreamed the driver, at least the Marvell one. The Intel Sata driver wont work with slipstream.


----------



## Megolidon

I tryed to put the XMP profile and I had a boot error with my mobo, RAM is dominator 1866mhz, so now I'm running it in 1333mhz, also I tryed to overclock a bit to get the proper ram speed, it worked at 3500 but then I saw it was overheating, above 75, not sure what is the max core temp, I did a quick search and 75 seemed to be the max temp.

So I tryed to put back the default speed but it's still at 3500 base clock ! even did a clear CMOS, and on HWinfo it still shows 3500 current clock, strange


----------



## deepor

I sometimes had a bug where the BIOS started ignoring changes to settings. I don't remember if there's an easier method to make it work again, but reflashing the BIOS definitely works.


----------



## Megolidon

I tryed updating the BIOS and nothing worked with the @BIOS or with the Q flash bios.. I'm starting to think something is wrong with this board, I tryed the right BIOS, right now it's FA, and the latest bios is FBb.


----------



## deepor

What's "this" board? There's a whole bunch of different Z77X boards and you didn't say what you have.

Also, are you sure you tried the right BIOS version? Some boards have gotten a new revision, and now there's revision 1.0, 1.1 and 1.2 of the same board. That "FA" version you mention sounds like a Rev. 1.2 board, but are you sure you really have one of those and not 1.1?


----------



## Megolidon

Z77x UD3H, yes if it says FA in the BIOS it means it's a 1.2 Rev ..


----------



## Alvarez

Guys, can i save my current BIOS to something, in case i have to CMOS it ?

I managed to use 780ti by changing boot priority, however if system fails during overclock and blocked, i may have to CMOS it. This means i have to remove DH14 and the card itself to use onboard graphics to repeat what i did, it is PITA literally.

I couldnt find something in manual so that's why i am asking,

Thanks in advance.


----------



## DeXel

You can save your BIOS settings to a flash drive.


----------



## Alvarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You can save your BIOS settings to a flash drive.


Then am i going to install it in backup bios ?


----------



## DeXel

Then you just restore those settings to any BIOS you currently have on.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Megolidon*
> 
> Z77x UD3H, yes if it says FA in the BIOS it means it's a 1.2 Rev ..


No idea what's going on for you.







Perhaps it's a stupid mistake like trying to use the .zip archive file you downloaded instead of extracting it and using the BIOS file that's inside?

I always used the BIOS flash tool that's built into the BIOS itself, never the Windows program. I've put the BIOS file you find in the .zip file onto a FAT32 formatted USB thumb drive.


----------



## Gmt

Hello guys, I have the Z77x-D3H since more than a year now v1.0, what bios would be the best for overclocking, which one do you use in your D3H's and works for sure? Currently I am running the latest F18i (beta) which gives me headaches as I cannot make my 3770K to run at any other speed higher than turbo boost 3,9GHz. Is it the bios or I have a cpu from a "bad" batch? I have tried all guides I could find, Sin's from here, OC3D's, Guru3D's with no luck. Sometimes it manages to boot an enter windows but BSOD's in around 30 seconds to 1 minute max. Although I did not overclocked it till now, previously I had a i5-750 which went with no problems to 4GHz but the mb was a P55A-UD3, and I am beginning to believe that the UD3H version are better suited to overclocking (more power phases and so on). As I followed the before mentioned guides I have tried all kind of combinations 4.4 with 1,2 v, 1,25, 1,275, 1,3 with no result , although I see people achieving 4,6 Ghz on 1,2 v. Thank you for any helpful advice.

Best regards


----------



## DeXel

Don't use other peoples voltages as simple as that. My CPU wants 1.32v for 4.4Ghz and like 1.36v for 4.5Ghz. Don't forget about LLC, and start with lower frequencies if you're unsure about your CPU capabilities.


----------



## Gmt

Hi Dexel, I just did what Sin and others recommended regarding voltages, as I had to start from somewhere, I've put 1,22 as Sin suggested in his graph, then when it failed I've bumped a bit to 1,25 assuming the voltage was not enough, and so on. As this topic is quite old the OC on these boards started about 2 years ago, I assumed that maybe the latest bios is not the best one. I am not sure how safe is to just overwrite this one with an older version like F6 for example.


----------



## DeXel

Sin0822 got a quite good chip whereas my chip is of the worst I've seen








. If your chip starts up with my settings, it's probably not a very good one.

You can also try to apply that much voltage to lower frequencies. 4.2Ghz is a good start because it doesn't require too much over stock. Set LLC to Turbo.


----------



## Gmt

Hmm, you have a 3570k and a UD5H mb, I saw that what should be ok for a i5 would be completely nok for i7. Still I will give it a try anyway, what the heck , I got nothing to loose. Currently I am running stock @ 1.10 v with LLC set to Extreme so when it jumps to 3,9 the voltage in Cpuz shows 1,116 and 1,104 when it runs at 1,6 GHz. My goal would be to be able to run at 4,5 or 4,6 with turbo boost, not 24/7 so that would not run at 4,5 or above all the day, just when needed.


----------



## DeXel

You just have to have EIST enabled for CPU to downclock. Try 4.2Ghz at 1.2 or 1.25v. It should work.


----------



## Gmt

Man, you're golden. For the first time it works at least it boots into win and does not bsod. Although temps are a bit high 40- 44 C keeps jumping around, and it is at idle. So the voltage will stay at 1.32 v always. No matter of the frequency 1.6 or 4.4GHz? I will try to lower it from here to see where it start to crash. Although it jumped to 1.344v once I started Prime95


----------



## DeXel

You can use offset mode to have voltage increased only during load. But try to figure out voltages on fixed mode before you start messing with offset because it's a bit tricky.


----------



## Rondik

I had a question not sure where to even post it.

I have had Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H since it was released 2+ years now, I will check BIOS version when I get home but I thin it F8

Over the past week I have been getting randomly hard lock ups, no BSOD, nothing in the event logs, and only thing I can do is power on and off. It happens on average once a night, and be after 2 hours of playing or 30 minutes of playing.

It usually happens while playing Battlefield 4, but last night it did happen when going to youtube right after shutting down bf4. I know bf4 always has issues, but never had anything like this.

The only thing I changed over the past week is get a steelseries diablo 3 mouse, before that I had the old ms 1.1 optical mouse.

Random lockups, could it have anything to do with my new mouse? Is that even possible? Or maybe the steelseries engine software?

I am not even sure where to begin troubleshooting, system has been rock solid stable since I put it together in may 2012 up until this week.


----------



## deepor

You'd obviously begin by using a different mouse and uninstalling the Steelseries software.









I also can't see how the mouse and its software could cause the freezes, but you never know.

I'd clean the PC and while doing that, I'd disconnect every single part and re-plug it, all SATA cables and power cables etc. Rubbing off the electrical contacts of the graphics card and the memory sticks might actually help fix this even if it seems like a stupid idea.

I'd only start trying to diagnose this through stability tests after doing that cleaning. Updating drivers and BIOS etc., that might actually be ultimately bad because your machine ran perfect until now. It could backfire. That's why I'd first instead try what I mentioned. Updating BIOS, that's something that might help if you change hardware or install Windows 8, but you didn't really do anything like that.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Anybody in here possibly have some suggestions for me?

Gigabyte z77x-d3h
i5 3330
8GB Hyper X 1600 (also have 8GB Generic 1600 as well which is what I want to use)

System is just hard locking, even in BIOS. It was a pain just to update the BIOS.

Thread here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1505904/complete-lock-ups-even-in-bios/0_50


----------



## DeXel

Once you try other CPUs like you said in your thread, check bent pins like the guy said in that thread, and try another stick of RAM (Gigabyte boards sometimes don't play well with some RAM), I'd suggest RMA before it's over (atm it should have little at least ~6 months of warranty left).

Also you can try latest beta bios from here, but at this point I don't think BIOS update is going to help.


----------



## sgtjeep

Pioneerisloud,
Sorry to read about your problems with your D3H, just had to respond because I ran myself ragged with the same problems with this board when I first bought it a couple of years ago. My solution was to return it to Gigabyte for repair. They found something wrong with it, and returned it in working condition. To this day I do not change bios, or anything major in the bios, it is still functioning just fine and that is the way I like it. They never responded when I inquired about what they found wrong with my D3H. I hope your board is still in warranty. Good luck.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yeah I tried my 2600k in it (that was such a royal pain to swap around....), and yeah same problem. Trying to call Gigabyte now, but it seems they're closed for the night already. I guess I'll try again tomorrow. I'm hoping I can spring for a prepaid shipping label from them, because I'm BEYOND broke right now.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Yeah I tried my 2600k in it (that was such a royal pain to swap around....), and yeah same problem. Trying to call Gigabyte now, but it seems they're closed for the night already. I guess I'll try again tomorrow. I'm hoping I can spring for a prepaid shipping label from them, because I'm BEYOND broke right now.


I hear what you're saying about broke, but you know Gigabyte is in California? I just sent a motherboard Priority 2 day from Florida to them and it was about $19.
Since you're in Washington maybe it will be cheaper.
Go to the USPS priority mail site and enter package dimensions and weight and it will tell you what the cost is, it's all I use anymore.

Anyway good luck. They will ship back to you UPS usually.

BTW if your motherboard box has a separate graphics cover DON'T send it or it might not make it back.


----------



## DeXel

Just a tip, big packages such as motherboards are usually cheaper with Fedex/UPS ground vs USPS Priority.


----------



## CravinR1

Usps flat rate is pretty reasonable


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Just a tip, big packages such as motherboards are usually cheaper with Fedex/UPS ground vs USPS Priority.


That hasn't been my experience at all, and I've shipped quite a bit in the past 2 years.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> That hasn't been my experience at all, and I've shipped quite a bit in the past 2 years.


I guess it depends where you ship to... I've noticed if I ship to mid US, USPS is WAY cheaper. East/West coast, Fedex was generally cheaper (w/ insurance).

I check all 3 every time I ship, and go with cheapest.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I guess it depends where you ship to... I've noticed if I ship to mid US, USPS is WAY cheaper. East/West coast, Fedex was generally cheaper (w/ insurance).
> 
> I check all 3 every time I ship, and go with cheapest.


Good to know. I'll keep that in mind next time.


----------



## uncola

I have startup set to Turbo in the bios so it boots super fast, but to get into the bios I have to unplug the power cord and plug it back in then hold DEL every time. Is there a gigabyte utility that lets me change the startup mode from turbo to normal so I don't have to do this? I have a z77x-ud3h


----------



## deepor

Do you know there's a restart-into-BIOS option somewhere in the Windows 8 advanced startup menu?


----------



## uncola

Oh that would work too. I found the app I was looking for


----------



## redfaction95

Guys getting boot loops even after 14 months of trying








Even the slightest change in CPU's clock results in boot loops, even 37 multiplier (i5 2500k)
Tried all the methods of deepor bro.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Guys getting boot loops even after 14 months of trying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even the slightest change in CPU's clock results in boot loops, even 37 multiplier (i5 2500k)
> Tried all the methods of deepor bro.


And what motherboard do you have?


----------



## redfaction95

I have z77x ud3h 1.1
xms3 2x2gb 1600mhz xmp dual channel
rosewill capstone 550 Gold psu
msi 280x

I have tried changing psu and gpu, same results gpu and psu are barely a month old.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> And what motherboard do you have?


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> I have z77x ud3h 1.1
> xms3 2x2gb 1600mhz xmp dual channel
> rosewill capstone 550 Gold psu
> msi 280x
> 
> I have tried changing psu and gpu, same results gpu and psu are barely a month old.


CMOS reset?
Any BIOS updates done?
Stock clocks work fine?
What about OC'ing without the GPU?


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> CMOS reset?
> Any BIOS updates done?
> Stock clocks work fine?
> What about OC'ing without the GPU?


Ok, here is a bit of information:-

I am having this problem from about almost my first Overclock on this board which was I guess 1.2 years ago, I used to have Thermaltake Litepower 600 PSU and PNY 560ti back then (rest remain the same as I said in above post), and now at this very moment I have upgraded to Rosewill Capstone 550 80+ Gold and msi R9 280X (Which I am running it at 1000mhz clock like the reference design's clocks though it comes at 1020mhz) so the problem then and the problem now is the same 1.2 year back I wanted my CPU OC'ed to at least 3.8ghz or 4.0ghz (all cores), but the problem was that, with just even a slight change in the settings (for example, setting the multiplier to 37 and using my rams xmp profile at its given 1600mhz speed and all other things on stock) the systems just pushed itself to boot loops, though after 2-3 loops when I got into OS finally, every stress test passed no core ever crossed 55C even in my damn hot room. So after much trying and consulting, deepor a guy here supported me very well, he guided be for even 3.8ghz (as you know these clocks are sooo close to stock turbo clocks that they merely need any voltage tweaking) but still I tried to set voltage to normal LLC to high voltage response to fast and offset to +0.05 but loops every where, I started from F16 bios and now I am on F20e latest still same, I left the hope, returned to full stock 24/7 for an year and then now that I have upgraded to a quite decent PSU, its only 2 days old loving it, did many GPU and CPU stress testing, ALL ok.

SO the thing is that, when I use optimized defaults in BIOS, everything works like a CHARM, I have used full stock settings (except ram set to xmp 1600mhz auto and changed boot priority) for almost a year, and guess how many boot loops, ZERO in whole year.
So when I tried changing today again after a year, same story, so I thought to give it another try, so I posted this here.

PS every single temp is fine and my PC is in good health, not even a bit of dust there. I also have cooler master 212+


----------



## rayweil

What is the best BIOS for UD3H rev 1.0?


----------



## Khaled G

Does the onboard vga support 3 displays in extended desktop mode ? cant seem to get it to work.

HDMI -> HDMI

DVI -> HDMI

VGA -> VGA (Cable seems to detect wrong res 2560x1600 and ghosting everywhere, 100% sure cable is faulty)

Disconnected all but 1 monitor, still detects a phantom monitor and can't disable extended desktop.

Help ?

typing with on screen keyboard till I finish cleaning my kb ... boring


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayweil*
> 
> What is the best BIOS for UD3H rev 1.0?


F17 IMO


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Does the onboard vga support 3 displays in extended desktop mode ? cant seem to get it to work.
> 
> HDMI -> HDMI
> DVI -> HDMI
> VGA -> VGA (Cable seems to detect wrong res 2560x1600 and ghosting everywhere, 100% sure cable is faulty)
> 
> Disconnected all but 1 monitor, still detects a phantom monitor and can't disable extended desktop.
> 
> Help ?
> 
> typing with on screen keyboard till I finish cleaning my kb ... boring


Not supported. IIRC 3 displays was only possible only if 2 of them were on display port. These boards only have 1.


----------



## Khaled G

Thanks & rep


----------



## redfaction95

Guys, can any one help @post #6376


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Guys, can any one help @post #6376


Did you try increasing those weird voltages like VTT and IMC?

There's this guide about OCing Sandy Bridge CPUs, but it was written for an old board:

http://www.overclock.net/t/910467/the-ultimate-sandy-bridge-oc-guide-p67a-ud7-performance-review

The second post tries to explain what the weird voltages do.

This is the guide for Ivy Bridge overclocking, so not your CPU, but it's using a Z77X board:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

It might have some hints about how voltages have to be set on this board (I remember there was a rule about VTT and IMC voltages and how far apart they can be set if you change them).


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Did you try increasing those weird voltages like VTT and IMC?
> 
> There's this guide about OCing Sandy Bridge CPUs, but it was written for an old board:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/910467/the-ultimate-sandy-bridge-oc-guide-p67a-ud7-performance-review
> 
> The second post tries to explain what the weird voltages do.
> 
> This is the guide for Ivy Bridge overclocking, so not your CPU, but it's using a Z77X board:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end
> 
> It might have some hints about how voltages have to be set on this board (I remember there was a rule about VTT and IMC voltages and how far apart they can be set if you change them).


Damn, thanks for the guide, really helped. No I did not changed those VTT stuff because I am scared to play with them as I have already complete burned my previous 2500k.
Here is an update:

Recently I switched the turbo off as by the guide, so as you know the main multiplier as "33" and then I tried "35" and "37" also. So what ever I set in BIOS, I get that in cpu-z and HWiNFO. completely stable 24/7 all stress test/ temps perfect. But then I tried setting the clock ratio to "38" and then "39" also but you know in the OS cpu-z, aida64 and HWiNFO show the "37" instead of 38 or 39 relatively. I have monitored these multipliers during load AIDA64 stress testing.
So how can I take my CPU beyond 37 while disabling the turbo...?


----------



## redfaction95

Problem solved. Thanks.
I disabled every single power saving feature in the bios and then booted into windows and got the multiplier I typed in the bios.
Then I went back and enabled them all and again rebooted, it was still showing the one in the bios, yea I know this sounds weird, but it did solve the problem. And btw I have disabled the "thermal monitor" permanently.

PS when I was having problem in "in" OS multiplier, the clock shown in the BIOS was still showing correctly my given multiplier value.

Just one more question:
I am having these volts @ 3.8ghz
1.344-1.356 V
It is on auto volt and LLC to High.
Is that fine?

And temps under aida64 test are:
38-40 idle (nearly all cores)
and 54 60 60 62 (are the highest temps per core respectively)


----------



## deepor

No, auto voltage is not fine in my opinion. I don't know 100% what it does, but I think it is basically setting core voltage to "Normal" and then adding some secret amount of offset voltage. Offset voltage is the line directly below core voltage, is grayed out but gets accessible if you type "normal" in the core voltage box.

Using offset is not interesting for you if you disabled all power saving stuff. To get offset to do something, you need to have C1E and EIST enabled.

Anyways... if you roughly know what voltage can run stable on your CPU, just type it in as fixed voltage in the core voltage input box! Then you will know you will get exactly that voltage and nothing else.

About LLC, if you set "Turbo", that will keep core voltage completely flat. It will not go up or down when the CPU is stressed and using a lot of power. If you set "High", voltage will go down a little bit when stressed, and if you set "Extreme" it goes up a little bit.

So if you currently know that when you start stressing with Aida64, it will use 1.35V on Auto voltage and High LLC, you could reproduce the same numbers if you manually type in 1.350 into the core voltage box (where it currently says "Auto") and "turbo" into the VCore LLC box. It should show the same voltage when you go and stress again with Aida64.

About the power saving that you have disabled: most of the power saving is done by the C3/C6 setting. That setting is about cutting voltage to cores that are idle. What you could try is keep C1E and EIST disabled, but enable that C3/C6 stuff as an experiment.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> No, auto voltage is not fine in my opinion. I don't know 100% what it does, but I think it is basically setting core voltage to "Normal" and then adding some secret amount of offset voltage. Offset voltage is the line directly below core voltage, is grayed out but gets accessible if you type "normal" in the core voltage box.
> 
> Using offset is not interesting for you if you disabled all power saving stuff. To get offset to do something, you need to have C1E and EIST enabled.
> 
> Anyways... if you roughly know what voltage can run stable on your CPU, just type it in as fixed voltage in the core voltage input box! Then you will know you will get exactly that voltage and nothing else.
> 
> About LLC, if you set "Turbo", that will keep core voltage completely flat. It will not go up or down when the CPU is stressed and using a lot of power. If you set "High", voltage will go down a little bit when stressed, and if you set "Extreme" it goes up a little bit.
> 
> So if you currently know that when you start stressing with Aida64, it will use 1.35V on Auto voltage and High LLC, you could reproduce the same numbers if you manually type in 1.350 into the core voltage box (where it currently says "Auto") and "turbo" into the VCore LLC box. It should show the same voltage when you go and stress again with Aida64.
> 
> About the power saving that you have disabled: most of the power saving is done by the C3/C6 setting. That setting is about cutting voltage to cores that are idle. What you could try is keep C1E and EIST disabled, but enable that C3/C6 stuff as an experiment.


Got it totally, thanks
And just one thing, if I set fixed 1.35v in the bios, will it remain on it even @ idle, if yes then it would be lot of heat and noise


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfaction95*
> 
> Got it totally, thanks
> And just one thing, if I set fixed 1.35v in the bios, will it remain on it even @ idle, if yes then it would be lot of heat and noise


Yes, but if you disable the power saving stuff, it will also be like that when using Offset or Auto.

When the CPU runs, it messages a VID voltage it currently wants to the outside. It wants low voltage numbers when running at 1600 MHz and high numbers for 4000+ MHz. The board takes the VID number and uses it for Vcore when Offset overclocking (and Auto is basically a secret offset). If you use fixed voltage for Vcore, the VID number gets simply ignored (you can still look at it in HWINFO).

The C1E and EIST power saving settings are for the CPU to go down to 1600 MHz when there's nothing to do. If you have those disabled, it will not use lower voltage when idle because the desktop will run at 3800+ MHz and the VID number will be high.

The C3/C6 setting can shut off power to the cores and other parts of the CPU when they are not used. This is where most of the power saving and low idle temperatures come from.

You need to find out which one of those caused your problems. If C3/C6 was the problem but C1E/EIST works fine, you might want to use Offset overclocking. If C1E and EIST was the problem but C3/C6 works fine, you can use fixed voltage.

C1E and EIST is a bit useless if you use fixed voltage, but that C3/C6 would still work for low idle temperatures. It will show high voltage in CPU-Z or HWMonitor or HWINFO etc., but a lot of parts in the CPU will actually power down most of the time on the desktop. If you look at the Task Manager and for example see the cores at 10% load on the desktop, this means the CPU cores are off and using no power 90% of the time.

To make good use of C1E and EIST, you put the Vcore in the BIOS to "Normal" (you can type words into the box), and the following line with the Offset will light up. If you leave Offset on zero, that's the default setting like Intel wants and it will definitely work for up to max Turbo Boost MHz, so 3800 MHz or so? If you put LLC to High or Turbo, it often will also work for 4000 MHz and more. At some point you will have to start to increase Offset.


----------



## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Yes, but if you disable the power saving stuff, it will also be like that when using Offset or Auto.
> 
> When the CPU runs, it messages a VID voltage it currently wants to the outside. It wants low voltage numbers when running at 1600 MHz and high numbers for 4000+ MHz. The board takes the VID number and uses it for Vcore when Offset overclocking (and Auto is basically a secret offset). If you use fixed voltage for Vcore, the VID number gets simply ignored (you can still look at it in HWINFO).
> 
> The C1E and EIST power saving settings are for the CPU to go down to 1600 MHz when there's nothing to do. If you have those disabled, it will not use lower voltage when idle because the desktop will run at 3800+ MHz and the VID number will be high.
> 
> The C3/C6 setting can shut off power to the cores and other parts of the CPU when they are not used. This is where most of the power saving and low idle temperatures come from.
> 
> You need to find out which one of those caused your problems. If C3/C6 was the problem but C1E/EIST works fine, you might want to use Offset overclocking. If C1E and EIST was the problem but C3/C6 works fine, you can use fixed voltage.
> 
> C1E and EIST is a bit useless if you use fixed voltage, but that C3/C6 would still work for low idle temperatures. It will show high voltage in CPU-Z or HWMonitor or HWINFO etc., but a lot of parts in the CPU will actually power down most of the time on the desktop. If you look at the Task Manager and for example see the cores at 10% load on the desktop, this means the CPU cores are off and using no power 90% of the time.
> 
> To make good use of C1E and EIST, you put the Vcore in the BIOS to "Normal" (you can type words into the box), and the following line with the Offset will light up. If you leave Offset on zero, that's the default setting like Intel wants and it will definitely work for up to max Turbo Boost MHz, so 3800 MHz or so? If you put LLC to High or Turbo, it often will also work for 4000 MHz and more. At some point you will have to start to increase Offset.


Thanks man, I am so glad that you put that much information time and effort into some one you does not even know








And yes, I have currently enabled all power saving features except thermal monitor and I have also set the vcore to Normal with 0 offset. LLC is to high. I will gradually try to higher the multiplier in simple increments until I need to increase the offset value.
I have also changed Minimum CPU power requirement at idle to 0% in the power settings in the OS so that intel speed stepping can actually be stable, I have monitored clock @ idle, it is working great, every core @ 1600mhz and voltage also drops to 0.8x


----------



## hunterbunter

Hi all,

I've had a rock solid Z77X-UD3H for a couple years now, and out of the blue I've had the strangest problem that I've never seen before.

I was just browsing and all of a sudden all of my 3 monitors went into standby mode. I rebooted, and I could hear it boot up, but still no image.

Hardware:

i7-3770k running stock 3.5GHz
32GB (4x8) Crucial ram
AMD 6990 video card
1000W PSU, can't remember the brand but it was decent quality iirc, intention was to eventually get a second video card which I never did.

I put in an old 4890 and it booted just fine, so I figured the GPU must have died. Ok, so I went out and bought a 290x to replace it, but lo and behold it had the same problem as my 6990!

I then thought the psu may have been on its way out, so I tried a different psu (corsair cx-750M), and got the same problem. It boots and works completely fine with the 4890, and with the internal gpu (using internal atm; the 290x is in there, just has the power unplugged). I also tried different pci-e cables from the psus to no avail.

I also tried one monitor at a time on the 4890, all work completely fine. It's the weirdest problem I've ever had...does anyone have any ideas?

After a bit of unplugging and plugging of things, it no longer boots to windows with either the 6990 or 290x, instead just complains with a debug code 97 (console output devices connect). The bios is a bit old, F9, but it's worked with the 6990 all this time just fine...I've updated it to F20e and I'm about to try it again but I'm not very optimistic. Could the MB just be on its way out? Maybe the pci slot has had it? The 290x was expensive but I bought it because I thought that was it...if it was the MB I would have just kept the 6990, and now I don't know how to fix it. Any ideas?


----------



## hunterbunter

wow...turns out the bios update fixed it. Could it have been a corrupt f9 bios?


----------



## deepor

It could have been the hardware being configured to run slightly unstable which only showed up now, and the BIOS update changed something? Who knows.









Can you return the new card for a full refund if you don't need it now?


----------



## hunterbunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> It could have been the hardware being configured to run slightly unstable which only showed up now, and the BIOS update changed something? Who knows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you return the new card for a full refund if you don't need it now?


Yeah it's as weird as anything I've come across.

At the back of my mind I've wanted a new gpu for a while...I _could_ return it, but then my wife would have to rip it from my cold, dead hands.

I might just sell the 6990 instead and buy her a present or something.


----------



## frag85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Does the onboard vga support 3 displays in extended desktop mode ? cant seem to get it to work.
> 
> HDMI -> HDMI
> DVI -> HDMI
> VGA -> VGA (Cable seems to detect wrong res 2560x1600 and ghosting everywhere, 100% sure cable is faulty)
> 
> Disconnected all but 1 monitor, still detects a phantom monitor and can't disable extended desktop.
> 
> Help ?
> 
> typing with on screen keyboard till I finish cleaning my kb ... boring


The 2560x1600 issue is an Intel driver bug. It does this to me whenever I upgrade/reinstall the intel GPU drivers.
And yes you can do 3 displays.

The top 3 are HDMI>DVI, VGA and DVI. (bottom 3 are on CF7970s). This just happens to be the adapters+cables I had laying around, it worked the first time I tried it.


----------



## Khaled G

Thank you for your info. I had to sell my CPU\MB\RAM cause I needed some cash, then got my self a cheap setup to keep things running and bought a 290X as soon as the cash started flowing In. The Pentium is barely enough for my needs till I either get an i5 or jump right into X99...

I really miss my delidded i7.

Edit: +Rep for the driver issue, now I know that the cable I was using wasn't faulty.


----------



## Vario

This is really strange but over the past 3 weeks my computer has been booting much slower. I have had the motherboard over a year. Lately it sits for about 10 seconds on the bios splash screen, whereas it used to sit about 1 second.
Motherboard is a z77x ud3h.


----------



## DeXel

Did you plug any new USB device?


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Did you plug any new USB device?


Nope nothing.


----------



## DeXel

I would just load defaults in BIOS and set them again.


----------



## Vario

Reloading optimized defaults didn't make a difference. Still really slow. Could board or some other component already be dying?

edit:
Bios is F18.

I'll try removing graphics card and booting on CPU's onboard graphics.

If that doesn't work I'll try another bios?

edit2:
I updated to f20e beta bios.
According to my cellphone's stop watch, it takes 15.2 seconds of gigabyte splash screen before windows starts to load. I'll remove the graphics card tomorrow, kind of a nuisance with my MK13 card cooler.


----------



## DeXel

Maybe even a simple BIOS reflash. Please check at what post code MB gets stuck during the post. It might help figuring out what's going on.


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Maybe even a simple BIOS reflash. Please check at what post code MB gets stuck during the post. It might help figuring out what's going on.


edit:
It is on A2. Once it goes beyond A2 it starts to load windows, but it is stuck on A2 for about 15 seconds.

edit2:
After checking the Boot Code A2, I unplugged the DVD drive and now it only displays the splash screen 2 seconds at most.

Boots up fast once more. Thanks for advise on boot code, forgot all about it.


----------



## deepor

Does the optical drive still work or is it broken and you never noticed because you didn't use it in forever?


----------



## Vario

I use it for windows installs and older games, it gets used maybe once every 2 weeks to once a month.

It still works, just seems to hang the boot. I already had usb go bad on this board, I hope the sata controllers aren't going bad as well.


----------



## DeXel

Glad you figured it out. Did you try another SATA port? The board probably still has some warranty left, so it's the best to get a replacement asap if it's the board.


----------



## Vario

The DVD drive may be failing or its the sata cable. I am trying a few different combinations of sata cables and sata ports, might take a couple days to see if a fault comes back.


----------



## mandrix

I've had my boards hang on boot for a while due to bad SATA data cables (Z77/Z87/Z97, doesn't matter). On boot the BIOS remembers what drives were previously there and expects them to show up....if they don't, or the communication is bad, it might take a while to boot up.

Due to constantly tinkering during builds, unplugging/replugging everything, I've managed to screw up some SATA data cables, all of which are the really thin type.

That's my interpretation of events, anyway, as replacing the cables always solves the problems.


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I've had my boards hang on boot for a while due to bad SATA data cables (Z77/Z87/Z97, doesn't matter). On boot the BIOS remembers what drives were previously there and expects them to show up....if they don't, or the communication is bad, it might take a while to boot up.
> 
> Due to constantly tinkering during builds, unplugging/replugging everything, I've managed to screw up some SATA data cables, all of which are the really thin type.
> 
> That's my interpretation of events, anyway, as replacing the cables always solves the problems.


I am thinking thats what happened here. Still too early to tell but its been working so far.


----------



## Ramzinho

quick question does the z77X-UD3H allow fan control over software?


----------



## CrazyElf

Has anybody tried to install any Linux distro on these boards? Mint especially? How did that go?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> quick question does the z77X-UD3H allow fan control over software?


I know on the UP7, not all the headers do. Only Sys_Fan 1 and Sys_Fan 2 do. The PWM fans headers I believe allow for PWM fan control, but not voltage control. The CPU fan header allows for PWM fan control as well, along with control in EasyTune. The others do not.

It does not work in the BIOS, in their "EasyTune" software, nor in SpeedFan.

Edit:
I wish that the fan control on was better on these rigs for sure.

It says in the manual for the UD7 that the following are linked:

CPU_FAN and SYS_FAN3 Connectors
SYS_FAN1 and SYS_FAN4 Connectors
SYS_FAN2 Connector

I presume that fan headers 5 and 6 are not controllable, which is weird considering fan 6 is a 4-pin fan header.

I'd imagine that you can do the same in the BIOS for the UD3H as well. Going to experiment with it myself and will report on the results.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> edit:
> It is on A2. Once it goes beyond A2 it starts to load windows, but it is stuck on A2 for about 15 seconds.
> 
> edit2:
> After checking the Boot Code A2, I unplugged the DVD drive and now it only displays the splash screen 2 seconds at most.
> 
> Boots up fast once more. Thanks for advise on boot code, forgot all about it.


Some optical drives don't work well with SATA3 ports. Try a SATA2 port and/or update the firmware on the drive.

I haven't used an optical drive on my Z77 board, but I had a strange problem on my P67A-UD7. On a SATA3 port it would cause massive DPC latency problems if there was no disk in the drive. The problem went away when I put it on a SATA2 port. I think there is a newer firmware for my drive, but I haven't bothered to try it since it works just fine on SATA2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> Has anybody tried to install any Linux distro on these boards? Mint especially? How did that go?


I've had Ubuntu Server 12.04 LTS running on my Z77X-UD5H for about 2.5 years. It's been running quite well. I only had to update the BIOS once when I installed two GTX670 cards for folding (they were causing POST to hang for a long time before loading the OS).


----------



## Shadin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I've had Ubuntu Server 12.04 LTS running on my Z77X-UD5H for about 2.5 years. It's been running quite well. I only had to update the BIOS once when I installed two GTX670 cards for folding (they were causing POST to hang for a long time before loading the OS).


Did you have to do anything special to install Ubuntu? I have a z77x-ud3h, and a Ubuntu USB won't even boot at all unless I add nomodeset in GRUB, and then it's in 1024x768 and I can't get it to actually install. Just hangs on creating the filesystem. I've tried this on the latest beta BIOS, as well as flipping the switch back to F18.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadin*
> 
> Did you have to do anything special to install Ubuntu? I have a z77x-ud3h, and a Ubuntu USB won't even boot at all unless I add nomodeset in GRUB, and then it's in 1024x768 and I can't get it to actually install. Just hangs on creating the filesystem. I've tried this on the latest beta BIOS, as well as flipping the switch back to F18.


I don't remember having to do anything special to get it to install, but that was over 2 years ago. Maybe the ISO you downloaded was corrupt or the transfer to USB was faulty.

You might want to head over to our Linux forum. There are lots of helpful people there.


----------



## JustinSane

Currently dealing with a Gigabyte z77x-ud3h for the past year now. I am having some pretty extreme USB problems with this board and I'm finally gonna do something about it.

Current problems with the Gigabyte z77x-UD3H:
USB ports will randomly die and I will have to reconnect devices
Wifi adapter in the USB port will slow to a crawl (2mb/s) and as soon as I switch ports it skyrockets(50mb/s)
Everything attached to the USB will freeze and/or cause the PC to hardlock

I've done some research to try to fix the random USB dying/hardlock issues going on with this board but I've never actually found a fix. Googling "z77x-ud3h usb problems" I see a ton of other people with my same issues. Can anyone recommend me a z77 board that I could find in stock? I would like to keep my current 1155 cpu so I need to stick with the z77 series.


----------



## deepor

When you experimented with stuff, did you compare the Intel and the VIA controller the board has? The problem might just be there for the ports run by the VIA controller. If it's like that and the Intel ports are fine, you might be able to work around the issue. There's a bunch of unused Intel USB 2.0 ports that you can pull out to the back with a cheap adapter, and if your case does not have USB 3.0 on the front, you have the header for that unused and could also pull that out to the back.

I don't know what ports on the back exactly are the Intel ports and what the VIA ports. There should be some software that shows the various hubs in some sort of tree and shows under which root hub things end up under which should tie things to VIA vs. Intel controller.


----------



## JustinSane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> When you experimented with stuff, did you compare the Intel and the VIA controller the board has? The problem might just be there for the ports run by the VIA controller. If it's like that and the Intel ports are fine, you might be able to work around the issue. There's a bunch of unused Intel USB 2.0 ports that you can pull out to the back with a cheap adapter, and if your case does not have USB 3.0 on the front, you have the header for that unused and could also pull that out to the back.
> 
> I don't know what ports on the back exactly are the Intel ports and what the VIA ports. There should be some software that shows the various hubs in some sort of tree and shows under which root hub things end up under which should tie things to VIA vs. Intel controller.


I just checked it out and the only 2 ports that never give me problems are the black USB 2.0 ports (Intel). The rest of the USB 3.0 ports appear to be VIA.
Dude this option never even occurred to me. I may do this rather than replace the whole board. Something like this right? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5779/cab-94/12_10-pin_Internal_USB_to_External_USB_Female_Port_Cable.html?tl=g2c36s98&id=GA2b6BSs


----------



## deepor

Yes, that's the kind of product, but there's versions of it that include a slot cover for the back of the case. Example here:

http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Ports-Adapter-Motherboard-Header/dp/B00GN5DCRE/

There should be two Intel USB 3.0 ports on the back and not all VIA. I have a hunch that it's the two ports that are grouped together with the LAN port.


----------



## JustinSane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Yes, that's the kind of product, but there's versions of it that include a slot cover for the back of the case. Example here:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Ports-Adapter-Motherboard-Header/dp/B00GN5DCRE/
> 
> There should be two Intel USB 3.0 ports on the back and not all VIA. I have a hunch that it's the two ports that are grouped together with the LAN port.


These 2? edit: probably USB 1 and 2 - I'm dumb and highlighted 2 and 3. 

I bought a PCI to USB 2.0 card - this one - but the only things that worked being plugged into it were mouse/keyboard. Webcam and Wifi dongle weren't working, I haven't tried reinstalling drivers for them yet in the new USB card (idk if you have to?).

Definitely gonna give that adapter you linked a try though. Thanks so much!


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustinSane*
> 
> Currently dealing with a Gigabyte z77x-ud3h for the past year now. I am having some pretty extreme USB problems with this board and I'm finally gonna do something about it.
> 
> Current problems with the Gigabyte z77x-UD3H:
> USB ports will randomly die and I will have to reconnect devices
> Wifi adapter in the USB port will slow to a crawl (2mb/s) and as soon as I switch ports it skyrockets(50mb/s)
> Everything attached to the USB will freeze and/or cause the PC to hardlock
> 
> I've done some research to try to fix the random USB dying/hardlock issues going on with this board but I've never actually found a fix. Googling "z77x-ud3h usb problems" I see a ton of other people with my same issues. Can anyone recommend me a z77 board that I could find in stock? I would like to keep my current 1155 cpu so I need to stick with the z77 series.


Hi friend check here,http://www.overclock.net/t/1367389/gigabyte-z77x-ud3h-4-of-my-usb-3-ports-stopped-working it might help you (check at the bottom and page 2).


----------



## JustinSane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hi friend check here,http://www.overclock.net/t/1367389/gigabyte-z77x-ud3h-4-of-my-usb-3-ports-stopped-working it might help you (check at the bottom and page 2).


Hey! I'll give that a try later today thank you! I'll unplug the USBs from the top ports and try to reinstall the VIA drivers.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustinSane*
> 
> These 2? edit: probably USB 1 and 2 - I'm dumb and highlighted 2 and 3.
> 
> I bought a PCI to USB 2.0 card - this one - but the only things that worked being plugged into it were mouse/keyboard. Webcam and Wifi dongle weren't working, I haven't tried reinstalling drivers for them yet in the new USB card (idk if you have to?).
> 
> Definitely gonna give that adapter you linked a try though. Thanks so much!


Those two things you highlighted in your picture would be where you'd connect that adapter from the Amazon website I linked to. Each of those two motherboard headers provides two USB 2.0 ports so that's why the adapter looks the way it does.

The one USB 3.0 header of the board next to the RAM slots should also be Intel.

About the sentence where I wrote "there should be two Intel USB 3.0 ports on the back", I meant on the back panel of the case. On other Gigabyte boards, the Intel ports that are USB 3.0 are grouped with where you plug the network cable into. See the pictures on the first post of page 2 of this thread here as where I got that idea:

http://www.tonymacx86.com/mountain-lion-desktop-support/65552-intel-usb3-issue-ga-z77x-up4-th-2.html


----------



## JustinSane

Alright awesome thanks a lot guys I knew I should've asked here a long time ago. Gonna try the driver thing later and order one of these adapters you linked @deepor. Thanks dudes, I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## eBombzor

I think my Z77-D3H's front panel audio header just died. I don't want to spend a lot of money and I definitely don't want a sound card.

Any advice?


----------



## deepor

Plug things into the back of the case? You could use an extension cable to get things into a better position on your desk if plugging things into the back of the case is not good.


----------



## JustinSane

Could a bad power supply be causing the USB ports to not get all the juice they need? This is what's happening:

We have a 3DS with a capture card in it that we use to stream, lately we've been having more and more USB problems and just recently, the 3DS keeps dropping signal randomly. It's also connected via USB.

Just tried the 3DS on a different computer with absolutely no signal drops yet. So it's definitely the PC/mobo/power supply/what the hell could it be. I'm guessing it has something to do with these SATAN USB ports on this UD3H. We've tried just using the 2 lower Intel ports on the PC with absolutely nothing else plugged into any other USB ports and it still drops.

Should we get a new mobo and PSU just to be safe? If so would you recommend the ASRock Extreme4? Or a Refurb Asus z77? Only ones in stock at Newegg







.

TL;DR Questions:
1. Could bad PSU be causing USB to not get enough power. It's a CORSAIR Gaming Series GS600.
2. New mobo time I think. ASRock Extreme 4 or Refurb Asus z77? or an Intel board? Man this is so stressful, idk what to do.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustinSane*
> 
> Could a bad power supply be causing the USB ports to not get all the juice they need? This is what's happening:
> 
> We have a 3DS with a capture card in it that we use to stream, lately we've been having more and more USB problems and just recently, the 3DS keeps dropping signal randomly. It's also connected via USB.
> 
> Just tried the 3DS on a different computer with absolutely no signal drops yet. So it's definitely the PC/mobo/power supply/what the hell could it be. I'm guessing it has something to do with these SATAN USB ports on this UD3H. We've tried just using the 2 lower Intel ports on the PC with absolutely nothing else plugged into any other USB ports and it still drops.
> 
> Should we get a new mobo and PSU just to be safe? If so would you recommend the ASRock Extreme4? Or a Refurb Asus z77? Only ones in stock at Newegg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> TL;DR Questions:
> 1. Could bad PSU be causing USB to not get enough power. It's a CORSAIR Gaming Series GS600.
> 2. New mobo time I think. ASRock Extreme 4 or Refurb Asus z77? or an Intel board? Man this is so stressful, idk what to do.


Open your case and try to push CMOS button in the mobo and load default in bios, if the problem exists then bad luck man go for a used z77 ( not asrock) go with asus.

Also what version of bios are you using ???


----------



## JustinSane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Open your case and try to push CMOS button in the mobo and load default in bios, if the problem exists then bad luck man go for a used z77 ( not asrock) go with asus.
> 
> Also what version of bios are you using ???


I am not sure on BIOS version, it's my gf's pc (long distance) so I'm kinda scared to update the BIOS remotely hahaha. We'll try the CMOS clear though.


----------



## Matt26LFC

Guys can i flash the main bios when im booting from the backup bios? If so, how?


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Guys can i flash the main bios when im booting from the backup bios? If so, how?


Check your PM


----------



## Matt26LFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Check your PM


Cheers mate that worked a treat! Just gotts pop the latest bios on now


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt26LFC*
> 
> Cheers mate that worked a treat! Just gotts pop the latest bios on now


Glad to hear that.


----------



## Dohko702

For some strange reason my Z77x-UD3H (Bios F18/F19) is dying







, continues bsods under windows desktop or browsing web pages, black screen and annoying noise while gaming (Dota 2, Darksiders 2, Bad Company 2, BF3, etc..)

My config is:
1) Intel Core i7 3770k also trying with Core i5 2500k
2) Cpu Cooler Cooler Master 212, i was to planning to put LQ but sadly MB is getting worst
3) Corsair Vengeance (2x8GB) 16GB 1600 MHz also trying with Gskill Ripjaws (2x4GB) 8GB 2133 MHz.
4) XFX Radeon Double Dissipation R9 290X 4GB / Also trying with EVGA GTX 760 FTW 4GB
5) 1 SSD Plextor 256 GB SATA3, 3TB Seagate SATA3
6) Creative Sound Blaster Recon 3d Fatality
7) PSU Thermaltake ToughPower 1275W 80 plus Platinum also trying with Corsair AX1200 and EVGA NEX 650 (80 Plus Gold)
8) Case Fractal Design Arc XL
9) Windows 7 SP1 x64

Sometimes works fine but every day i have to reset the pc and the hell begins don't boot, then boot and initiate Uefi Bios, then windows logon after a while bsod e7 or even restart in a blink of an eye...

I like the performance of the 3770k but the issues with the MB is annyoing me, I also put another bios F20e beta, F19 beta, F18 the last is more stable.

If this Mb pass away what purchase recommend an used Asrock or Asus, i dont want to spend to much money around 150-170 bucks is fine.

Thanks if someone can help me


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dohko702*
> 
> For some strange reason my Z77x-UD3H (Bios F18/F19) is dying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , continues bsods under windows desktop or browsing web pages, black screen and annoying noise while gaming (Dota 2, Darksiders 2, Bad Company 2, BF3, etc..)
> 
> My config is:
> 1) Intel Core i7 3770k also trying with Core i5 2500k
> 2) Cpu Cooler Cooler Master 212, i was to planning to put LQ but sadly MB is getting worst
> 3) Corsair Vengeance (2x8GB) 16GB 1600 MHz also trying with Gskill Ripjaws (2x4GB) 8GB 2133 MHz.
> 4) XFX Radeon Double Dissipation R9 290X 4GB / Also trying with EVGA GTX 760 FTW 4GB
> 5) 1 SSD Plextor 256 GB SATA3, 3TB Seagate SATA3
> 6) Creative Sound Blaster Recon 3d Fatality
> 7) PSU Thermaltake ToughPower 1275W 80 plus Platinum also trying with Corsair AX1200 and EVGA NEX 650 (80 Plus Gold)
> 8) Case Fractal Design Arc XL
> 9) Windows 7 SP1 x64
> 
> Sometimes works fine but every day i have to reset the pc and the hell begins don't boot, then boot and initiate Uefi Bios, then windows logon after a while bsod e7 or even restart in a blink of an eye...
> 
> I like the performance of the 3770k but the issues with the MB is annyoing me, I also put another bios F20e beta, F19 beta, F18 the last is more stable.
> 
> If this Mb pass away what purchase recommend an used Asrock or Asus, i dont want to spend to much money around 150-170 bucks is fine.
> 
> Thanks if someone can help me


Hi mate, can you tell me the debug code from your mobo when you bsod or crash ???


----------



## Dohko702

Just stays in A0 and then restart the pc

Thx


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys I'm in the process of under volting my 3470 and I have a few questions regarding the BIOS on my Z77 D3H.

What does PWM phase control do in the BIOS? Will I run into any problems if I set it to Lite PWR as opposed to auto?

Should I under volt using LLC or without it?

Thanks.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dohko702*
> 
> Just stays in A0 and then restart the pc
> 
> Thx


As i see in your first post you use different hardware and the problem still occur, try to change also windows, if the problem continue change mobo, asus is better from asrock but this time its difficult to find z77 boards, so try to find asus (z77 pro or deluxe) or the Fatal1ty Z77 Professional-M from asrock will do the job.









Edit: The A0 code means that all is ok "A0 = IDE initialization is started", so its normal, maybe the bsod are software related.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys I'm in the process of under volting my 3470 and I have a few questions regarding the BIOS on my Z77 D3H.
> 
> What does PWM phase control do in the BIOS? Will I run into any problems if I set it to Lite PWR as opposed to auto?
> 
> Should I under volt using LLC or without it?
> 
> Thanks.


Hi mate read this http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

also check the mid page he explains a lot about the settings in the bios
"PWM Phase Control: This setting determines how to balance temperature with performance to provide either the best VRM performance or the best temperature for the VRM itself."


----------



## Dohko702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> As i see in your first post you use different hardware and the problem still occur, try ti change also windows, if the problem continue change mobo, asus is better from asrock but this time its difficult to find z77 boards, so try to find asus (z77 pro or deluxe) or the Fatal1ty Z77 Professional-M from asrock will do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: The A0 code means that all is ok "A0 = IDE initialization is started", so its normal, maybe the bsod are software related.


Thx man, i will try with Win 8.1, by the way Asus motherboards with Z77 chipset are too expensive, also bent pins, no accessories, so i will give a chance with this MSI Z77A-G45 Thunderbolt in purchased in ebay used with all accessories 99 bucks I don't want to spend to much money and wait for DDR4.

I will try tonight with F17 Bios.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dohko702*
> 
> Thx man, i will try with Win 8.1, by the way Asus motherboards with Z77 chipset are too expensive, also bent pins, no accessories, so i will give a chance with this MSI Z77A-G45 Thunderbolt in purchased in ebay used with all accessories 99 bucks I don't want to spend to much money and wait for DDR4.
> 
> I will try tonight with F17 Bios.


Msi is very good too so go for it, also if you have any overckock remove that too and if you can see the bsod with bsod viewer and tell me the bsod code will help too, but for now just try new os.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hi mate read this http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end
> 
> also check the mid page he explains a lot about the settings in the bios
> "PWM Phase Control: This setting determines how to balance temperature with performance to provide either the best VRM performance or the best temperature for the VRM itself."


Holy crap that guide was amazing! It answered all of my questions.
Thanks!


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I had 2x4GB 2400MHz memory and changed to 2x8GB 2400Mhz and can't get them to boot with F14 Bios on UD5H. What do i change to get higher RAM speed?


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I had 2x4GB 2400MHz memory and changed to 2x8GB 2400Mhz and can't get them to boot with F14 Bios on UD5H. What do i change to get higher RAM speed?


You cant load XMP from bios ? If no you have to put manual the ram settings.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> You cant load XMP from bios ? If no you have to put manual the ram settings.


Updating Bios did it with XMP profile.


----------



## eBombzor

Has anyone had any experience with Gigabyte's RMAs? My board has been acting up and I'm in the process of RMAing my Z77-D3H currently.

So from Gigabyte's extremely shallow and vague warranty policy is this what I am suppose to do: Only ship the motherboard with no other accessories inside an anti-static bag.

Also - What box should I use to ship the mobo? I don't want to use the original box because Gigabyte isn't going to give it back to me and I might need it later.

Thanks.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with Gigabyte's RMAs? My board has been acting up and I'm in the process of RMAing my Z77-D3H currently.
> 
> So from Gigabyte's extremely shallow and vague warranty policy is this what I am suppose to do: Only ship the motherboard with no other accessories inside an anti-static bag.
> 
> Also - What box should I use to ship the mobo? I don't want to use the original box because Gigabyte isn't going to give it back to me and I might need it later.
> 
> Thanks.


Use anything you want. Just make sure th MB is not going to break in half when you ship it.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with Gigabyte's RMAs? My board has been acting up and I'm in the process of RMAing my Z77-D3H currently.
> 
> So from Gigabyte's extremely shallow and vague warranty policy is this what I am suppose to do: Only ship the motherboard with no other accessories inside an anti-static bag.
> 
> Also - What box should I use to ship the mobo? I don't want to use the original box because Gigabyte isn't going to give it back to me and I might need it later.
> 
> Thanks.


If your board came in a "box inside a box", that is a plain white box with a separate graphics cover, just pull the graphics cover box off as they will likely forget to send it back. If you can find a slightly bigger box to pack the original in plus some peanuts or padding that's even better...but I've used just the original box before with no problems shipping from Florida.

Since you're in Cali the good thing is it doesn't have to go far.

I recently sent one in and just got it back, this time they didn't send me any tracking but if you keep checking on the web site it will state when it is shipped and you can call them up for a tracking # if you like.
This time was a waste for me since the problem turned out to be the psu.


----------



## eBombzor

So you're saying I should use the original box? Do you think I'll ever the need the original box? I'm just afraid in the future that I'll need the box and I won't have it.

And yes my mobo box came with another cardboard cover inside the box with graphics.

What kind of box did Gigabyte use to send back your replacement?

Thanks guys.


----------



## DeXel

I would just put MB in an anti-static bag that it came with, and put it inside of a box filled with a lot of packing anti-static peanuts, so it doesn't move around. An inch or two between corners of MB and box filled with peanuts is desirable.


----------



## eBombzor

Are there any other alternatives to packing peanuts? The USPS here doesn't supply any kind of packing material and the UPS that does charges $40+ for Ground, which is their cheapest option.

I've heard newspapers are no bueno around electronics...

I have some leftover large padded letters, but probably not enough to cover the mobo. Maybe I can just stretch it out far enough and write FRAGILE GLASS on the box.


----------



## DeXel

You can get them from Staples, Office Depot, and other office stores. My local Fedex also has them. Definitely don't use "balloons" (the ones Amazon and Newegg use lately), MB will move around.

I don't see why newspaper is no go given that MB is inside anti-static bag.


----------



## mandrix

Once I only shipped in original box, when they shipped back it was inside a slightly larger box w/peanuts. But yeah, usually the original box is pretty sturdy although I still recommend putting original inside another box if you have one handy. If not I wouldn't worry too much, just insure it.


----------



## eBombzor

Thanks for the help guys I'm going to ship my mobo inside a large box with lots of packing peanuts that I can hopefully find in Staples.


----------



## refmon

Power surge caused my first bios to get corrupted so it switched to the 2nd bios. I didn't notice any problems other than it telling me the bios has been reset until I switched the battery. I stopped getting the reset message but now I constantly get stutters just browsing a site, things like shockwave keep crashing and all of my games are taking much longer to load.

Using GA-Z77X-UD3H.

I just updated my bios using @bios but nothings changed.

I'd like to reset the bios from inside the motherboard and flip the dual bios switch but what state does my computer have to be in when I do it? Powered off or just completely disconnected?

I am looking in the right area of what could be wrong or am I way off?


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refmon*
> 
> Power surge caused my first bios to get corrupted so it switched to the 2nd bios. I didn't notice any problems other than it telling me the bios has been reset until I switched the battery. I stopped getting the reset message but now I constantly get stutters just browsing a site, things like shockwave keep crashing and all of my games are taking much longer to load.
> 
> Using GA-Z77X-UD3H.
> 
> I just updated my bios using @bios but nothings changed.
> 
> I'd like to reset the bios from inside the motherboard and flip the dual bios switch but what state does my computer have to be in when I do it? Powered off or just completely disconnected?
> 
> I am looking in the right area of what could be wrong or am I way off?


Hi friend, to switch bios close your pc completely and then turn the bios switch.
It's Alt+F10 to copy main to backup, and Ctrl+F10 to copy backup to main for Z77


----------



## refmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hi friend, to switch bios close your pc completely and then turn the bios switch.
> It's Alt+F10 to copy main to backup, and Ctrl+F10 to copy backup to main for Z77


Thanks, I'll try it but is the bios battery really causing my computer to slow down or could it be something else? I'm not sure how to check for burnt out parts.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refmon*
> 
> Thanks, I'll try it but is the bios battery really causing my computer to slow down or could it be something else? I'm not sure how to check for burnt out parts.


When you said that you switched the battery you mean that you took the battery out and then put it again or you put another battery ?? If you just took her out and then put it again its nothing to worry as for the stutters and the other problems inside OS ran memtest to test your ram and check your HDD or SSD for problems (also your gpu).


----------



## refmon

I took out battery for a while then put it back in but it still kept telling me the bios was corrupt so I just bought another and then it was fine. I'll give memtest a shot but should is use 86 or 86+?


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refmon*
> 
> I took out battery for a while then put it back in but it still kept telling me the bios was corrupt so I just bought another and then it was fine. I'll give memtest a shot but should is use 86 or 86+?


Use 86+ its better.

Edit: let it run at least 1 pass (its very easy to use) if you see any red lines then its a problem.


----------



## refmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Use 86+ its better.
> 
> Edit: let it run at least 1 pass (its very easy to use) if you see any red lines then its a problem.


Okay, I let it run 2 passes just in case but it told me there were no errors. Thanks for clearing out my ram as the potential problem but what else could I check?


----------



## deepor

If the backup BIOS works, did you try to copy it over to the main one?


----------



## refmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> If the backup BIOS works, did you try to copy it over to the main one?


No, I've updated the bios using @bios but the bios im using now doesnt say its corrupt


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refmon*
> 
> No, I've updated the bios using @bios but the bios im using now doesnt say its corrupt


What gpu you use on board or single gpu ?? Maybe that's the cause of the problems inside your OS, either way try to copy your backup bios to main (Ctrl+F10 to copy backup to main) format your drive, if the problems still occurs maybe the mobo got faulty.


----------



## refmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> What gpu you use on board or single gpu ?? Maybe that's the cause of the problems inside your OS, either way try to copy your backup bios to main (Ctrl+F10 to copy backup to main) format your drive, if the problems still occurs maybe the mobo got faulty.


I use NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 and where do I press Ctrl+F10 to copy backup to the main?

Thank you for all the help too


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refmon*
> 
> I use NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 and where do I press Ctrl+F10 to copy backup to the main?
> 
> Thank you for all the help too


Check your PM.


----------



## twitchyzero

Hoping someone can help me with a BT issue I'm having
I have the UD5H-WB...and a wifi/BT PCI-E 1x card that comes with it.
BIOS is F14 (I think), with the latest Bluetooth driver

I can connect to my phone fine and file transfer works.
I can connect to my vizio 5.1 sound bar S5451w-C2...it shows up in windows as audio loudspeaker...audio is connected and signal is good but no audio from PC is coming out of the sound bar...only coming out of my PC's speakers.

Any ideas?


----------



## DeXel

Make sure it's the default speaker.


----------



## philhalo66

Does anyone know what A6 means? my mobo is showing that code but everything works fine I can even play Battlefield 4 without an issue for hours.

NVM seems to have gone a way by itself all i did was clear the CMOS and re-enter my overclock and boom no more error code.


----------



## frag85

Check the manual for codes: http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-z77x-ud3h_e.pdf

"A6 Detect and install all currently connected SCSI devices"

Its not so much an error code, but what the motherboard just did (detect SCSI drive) or is currently doing. Nothing to worry about unless the system won't post or boot a drive.


----------



## UNOE

I just installed windows 10 and I believe both BIOS's are not corrupt. How can I force flash from a USB ? z77x ud3h


----------



## deepor

I don't understand what you are asking.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> I don't understand what you are asking.


i think he's asking how to recover a corrupted BIOS


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> i think he's asking how to recover a corrupted BIOS


Alright, if the automatic detection for a corrupt BIOS does not activate by itself, there's a way to force it.

At first, turn off the machine. Now hold down the power button. Don't let go for at least ten seconds. The machine will turn on, and it will turn off again after a few seconds. Only after this has happened, you let go of the power button.

The next time you turn on the machine, the second BIOS will take over. It will present a screen that says it thinks the first BIOS is broken, and it will ask you what to do. There will be a menu option where you can make it copy itself over the first BIOS.


----------



## philhalo66

Anyone know why 90% of my USB ports on the motherboard dont work but the front USB 3.0 works fine?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Issues with the USB ports on this board are a well known issue and has been reiterated numerous times in this thread, and seems to be caused by the VIA drivers. You can try uninstalling those to see if that fixes your issue.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Issues with the USB ports are a well known issue and has been reiterated numerous times in this thread, and seems to be caused by the VIA drivers. You can try uninstalling those to see if that fixes your issue.


Sorry im new to intel and i have no idea about any of this stuff. i haven't installed any but i will try to and see what hapens.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> Alright, if the automatic detection for a corrupt BIOS does not activate by itself, there's a way to force it.
> 
> At first, turn off the machine. Now hold down the power button. Don't let go for at least ten seconds. The machine will turn on, and it will turn off again after a few seconds. Only after this has happened, you let go of the power button.
> 
> The next time you turn on the machine, the second BIOS will take over. It will present a screen that says it thinks the first BIOS is broken, and it will ask you what to do. There will be a menu option where you can make it copy itself over the first BIOS.


Unfortunately both are bad. So I get reboot loop on both. I know your wondering how I could do something like that its my fault. I knew one bios was bad and used the one good one for about 5 months. I have built 100 plus PC's and never seen bios corrupted. So I just didn't really thing it would ever happen again. I was meaning to flash the other bios but I just forgot about it. Now both are bad. I was hoping there was a way to force flash like you can with RIVE with a USB in a certain slot.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Unfortunately both are bad. So I get reboot loop on both. I know your wondering how I could do something like that its my fault. I knew one bios was bad and used the one good one for about 5 months. I have built 100 plus PC's and never seen bios corrupted. So I just didn't really thing it would ever happen again. I was meaning to flash the other bios but I just forgot about it. Now both are bad. I was hoping there was a way to force flash like you can with RIVE with a USB in a certain slot.


I never heard of anything that could help.







You should wait a bit to see if someone knows of a method to fix this, and you should open a support ticket on Gigabyte's website.

You could also ask in this forum here: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/


----------



## flyer57

I did pretty much the same thing as you did. But I stayed with it and after about 50 minutes it finally let me into the bios. I tried all of the bios I could find. They all seem to do pretty much the same. Work a couple of times and then go back into the boot loop. And then it would take 30 to 50 minutes to get back in again. Also noticed that I was getting check some errors. So something is changing them.
I finally got my main up and working pretty steady now. The only one I got working so far was with the F16g bios. I tried everything in the book and then some. What seems to help is to pull the motherboard battery, short bios out your trying to work with than when you turn it back on it will turn on and then turn off right away. At this point I hit the reset button on the motherboard (one right next to the memory) and it seems to take it out of the bios loop for some reason. If it doesn't turn the motherboard off using the power button next to the reset. And after restarting push the reset button again. Now sometimes it would take a couple tries or false starts and then it would tell you somethings wrong with the bios and asked if I wanted to go into the bios. I've gotten to the point where it took out the battery for the bios. Tired of removing the video card. All my drivers are in raid0 and for some reason the backup won't accept this or won't tell Windows, this not sure. But it says it can't find boot record. I've had to reflash a couple of times and it sometimes would still enter the bios loop and that's when I would short bios. Then retry my suggestion All settings are the same as the main and the main works fine(so far). The hardest part was definitely the countless bios loops.
Okay I'll try and say there's a little clearer.
Pull battery pull power cord short bios(you might want to leave the battery out). Mine would power up and then power off and then power up and then I'd use the reset button, the one inside. Flash using the F16g bios, same startup procedure. Then set up the profile. You may have to flash the bios two or three times again pull power cord short bios and then restart. When I did this it lasted longer and longer. And came out of the bios loop easier and easier.
Sorry if this isn't very clear. Let me know how it goes and what you did and I'll see if I can re-create and then help again.


----------



## H3llHound360

I have a ga-z77-d3h


----------



## flyer57

What if it's the backup bios that's bad. Got my main bios back working, and the backup set up just like the main but for some reason it doesn't accept the fact that the hard drives are raid0. Has the same bios and it all settings are exactly the same. So I don't understand why it's doing what it's doing. Can't find the boot manager or record and stops and says Ctrl-Alt-Del to continue. And of course goes into a loop. Switch back to the main no problems as long as I keep from going into a bios loop. Also something strange happened the last couple days the Intel NIC won't accept the drivers. They won't even load. It will let me load the software for the Intel manager but I don't get that screen saying that it is "loading drivers this may take a few minutes" all I get is a small warning saying drivers didn't load correctly. So I tried using my QUALCOMM and it works really good. Be that as it may. Any ideas on the NIC. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Meant to quote this to *deepor*


----------



## flyer57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3llHound360*
> 
> I have a ga-z77-d3h


oh yeah, I got the GTX 780 SC


----------



## H3llHound360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyer57*
> 
> oh yeah, I got the GTX 780 SC


Awh you beat me there, I got the gtx 770, but I have an i7-3770k overclocked to 4.9 ghz


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyer57*
> 
> I did pretty much the same thing as you did. But I stayed with it and after about 50 minutes it finally let me into the bios. I tried all of the bios I could find. They all seem to do pretty much the same. Work a couple of times and then go back into the boot loop. And then it would take 30 to 50 minutes to get back in again. Also noticed that I was getting check some errors. So something is changing them.
> I finally got my main up and working pretty steady now. The only one I got working so far was with the F16g bios. I tried everything in the book and then some. What seems to help is to pull the motherboard battery, short bios out your trying to work with than when you turn it back on it will turn on and then turn off right away. At this point I hit the reset button on the motherboard (one right next to the memory) and it seems to take it out of the bios loop for some reason. If it doesn't turn the motherboard off using the power button next to the reset. And after restarting push the reset button again. Now sometimes it would take a couple tries or false starts and then it would tell you somethings wrong with the bios and asked if I wanted to go into the bios. I've gotten to the point where it took out the battery for the bios. Tired of removing the video card. All my drivers are in raid0 and for some reason the backup won't accept this or won't tell Windows, this not sure. But it says it can't find boot record. I've had to reflash a couple of times and it sometimes would still enter the bios loop and that's when I would short bios. Then retry my suggestion All settings are the same as the main and the main works fine(so far). The hardest part was definitely the countless bios loops.
> Okay I'll try and say there's a little clearer.
> Pull battery pull power cord short bios(you might want to leave the battery out). Mine would power up and then power off and then power up and then I'd use the reset button, the one inside. Flash using the F16g bios, same startup procedure. Then set up the profile. You may have to flash the bios two or three times again pull power cord short bios and then restart. When I did this it lasted longer and longer. And came out of the bios loop easier and easier.
> Sorry if this isn't very clear. Let me know how it goes and what you did and I'll see if I can re-create and then help again.


Are you running Windows 10? I think it might have something to do with that. Thats the only thing I can think of because worked fine before that.


----------



## philhalo66

i don't think windows 10 did it i been running win 10 for a few weeks without issue but i did notice if i flip the power switch on my PSU then hold the power button down to drain the power from the caps (habit) it always does the bios recovery thing.


----------



## obit11

So I just bought a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB (second-hand yeah so I should have expected it to be dodge). Regardless, plugged it all in. G.Skill Ripjaws X 8gb, i7 3770k, Noctua NH-D14 cooler, Thermaltake gold power 750w PSU and a GTX 560 se. Anyway, when I turn it on, it turns on, the MB and DB light flash one after another, then it just shorts out. After a few seconds it turns on and proceeds to do the same thing. The PSU is fine with my old Mobo and cpu. I have a photo of what looks to be an imperfection https://i.imgur.com/YI5m4CZ.jpg so I dont know whether that is the issue (part of https://i.imgur.com/7YF8M0t.png the bit in that is yellow)? I've tried turning it on with just the CPU power and Mobo power plugged in and it still does the same. (I dont have another PSU with 8 pin cpu power so I can't really test to see if my psu is to blame) Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obit11*
> 
> So I just bought a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB (second-hand yeah so I should have expected it to be dodge). Regardless, plugged it all in. G.Skill Ripjaws X 8gb, i7 3770k, Noctua NH-D14 cooler, Thermaltake gold power 750w PSU and a GTX 560 se. Anyway, when I turn it on, it turns on, the MB and DB light flash one after another, then it just shorts out. After a few seconds it turns on and proceeds to do the same thing. The PSU is fine with my old Mobo and cpu. I have a photo of what looks to be an imperfection https://i.imgur.com/YI5m4CZ.jpg so I dont know whether that is the issue (part of https://i.imgur.com/7YF8M0t.png the bit in that is yellow)? I've tried turning it on with just the CPU power and Mobo power plugged in and it still does the same. (I dont have another PSU with 8 pin cpu power so I can't really test to see if my psu is to blame) Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.


Have you tried testing it on a desk or something without it in the case?


----------



## obit11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Have you tried testing it on a desk or something without it in the case?


Yes, just on the motherboards cardboard box. one dimm of ram, the cpu and mobo power in, the noctua cooler and the i7. Still seems to short? so would that suggest the motherboard is rooted?


----------



## Boinz

Have you checked to make sure all the pins in the gpu socket are fine?


----------



## obit11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Have you checked to make sure all the pins in the gpu socket are fine?


I haven't and I Shall in the morning. It's the exact same as http://www.overclock.net/t/1284631/ga-z77x-ud5h-will-not-post so i guess it is busted. ah well, that's what i get for going second hand i guess.


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys,

I need some help installing Ubuntu alongside my UEFI Windows OS. In the BIOS, the only way to use UEFI mode is to set the boot mode to "Windows 8" or "Windows 8 WHQL." But the only way to install Ubuntu is to have the boot mode set to "Other," which makes switching between the two OS's difficult. UEFI is also impossible in the "Other" mode.

Is there anyway to install Ubuntu in UEFI mode?

Thanks.

EDIT2: Does anyone know how to remove the ubuntu boot manager from my system? I tried using bootrec/fixboot & fixmbr but nothing I'm doing seems to work.


----------



## flyer57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3llHound360*
> 
> Awh you beat me there, I got the gtx 770, but I have an i7-3770k overclocked to 4.9 ghz


well you got me there. The highest I got it stable was 4.5. But I was just adjusting the multiplier nothing else. Too much going on lately to really get into it. And now I'm fighting bios issues. So I normally run about 4.3, no reason to beat the poor CPU. But running liquid cooling. You run it at 4.9 all the time?


----------



## flyer57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Are you running Windows 10? I think it might have something to do with that. Thats the only thing I can think of because worked fine before that.


No,I'm running Windows 7 Pro. Well I've been told that the bios can be really finicky. I've definitely done something to really piss it off.
Minds been getting harder and harder to start.


----------



## flyer57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I need some help installing Ubuntu alongside my UEFI Windows OS. In the BIOS, the only way to use UEFI mode is to set the boot mode to "Windows 8" or "Windows 8 WHQL." But the only way to install Ubuntu is to have the boot mode set to "Other," which makes switching between the two OS's difficult. UEFI is also impossible in the "Other" mode.
> 
> Is there anyway to install Ubuntu in UEFI mode?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> EDIT2: Does anyone know how to remove the ubuntu boot manager from my system? I tried using bootrec/fixboot & fixmbr but nothing I'm doing seems to work.


I don't know much about that program, but I googled it and found something interesting

_-Click start
- Type: cmd
- Right-click cmd when it appears under Programs
- Click Run As Administrator

Once the prompt is up type bcdedit.exe
this will list all of the OS that start up in Windows Boot Manager

Once you have this list you use the command bcdedit.exe/delete file name
example: bcdedit.exe/delete {802d5e32-0784-11da-bd33-000476eba25f}_

I would definitely ask others before using this though. And also it's a very old post


----------



## eBombzor

How much more power does my PC consume after shutdown without ErP? Which mode do you guys use?

Wondering if it's worth it to disable it for charging my phone after shutdown.


----------



## jonnyd91

GA-Z77X-UD5H

I want to downsize my case to fit into a desk enclosure. I cannot find a nice case in the ATX form factor that will fit into a 19 1/2 deep cabinet, with wires.

Is there any Micro ATX board out there that will come close to my current board? I want at least 2 SATA 6Gb/s ports but more would be nice. I don't want to do a complete upgrade because they system is still very fast for me.

Unless someone knows of a case for ATX that will fit in that space.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Does anyone happen to know which model Thermalright Mosfet Cooler I need for my UDH3?


----------



## Notmare

GA-Z77MX-D3H here, and I feel silly for asking, but I can't find the CPU PLL setting in my BIOS, can anyone help?

I've seen images from other Gigabyte Z77 boards but mine appears to be missing. I've been reading on the affects this can have on one's ability to lower a static Vcore further and wanted to play around with it. Currently running the latest F17b bios.

Thanks!


----------



## Spirosssss

Yo guys, are we gonna see support for the new gen SSDs (PCI-e / NVMe) in our old school mobos? Maybe some modded BIOS is out there for us?







Z77x-UD5 owner here


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spirosssss*
> 
> Yo guys, are we gonna see support for the new gen SSDs (PCI-e / NVMe) in our old school mobos? Maybe some modded BIOS is out there for us?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Z77x-UD5 owner here


That kind of ssd are not yet supported via firmware update.


----------



## Spirosssss

We just need an UEFI update to make them bootable..


----------



## 8bitG33k

Does it matter which of the two pcie slots I use for my video card (GTX 770)?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Does it matter which of the two pcie slots I use for my video card (GTX 770)?


The 16 PCI-E lanes from the CPU are fully wired to the slot that's closest to the CPU. The second slot only gets half of those. You can check by shining a flashlight into the two slots and looking for where you see the reflections from the gold contacts stop.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> The 16 PCI-E lanes from the CPU are fully wired to the slot that's closest to the CPU. The second slot only gets half of those. You can check by shining a flashlight into the two slots and looking for where you see the reflections from the gold contacts stop.


Ah, that's too bad as in the top slot the GPU blocks the below PCIe slot to install a Soundcard.


----------



## deepor

You can use the lower slot anyway. You will not lose a lot of FPS or anything. The difference does not even show up in most benchmarks, I think.


----------



## frag85

Even running 5760x1080 I do not see a real-world noticeable difference with a GTX970 or single or CF7970. We're talking like a couple % in frame-rates, I would consider this within the margin of error in many cases. It won't even be noticable if you play CPU bottleneck games like Arma, DCS or iRacing.

Google around, you'll find results like this, this or these where even single SLI 980s,Titans ect... don't make that big of a difference.


----------



## Mercyflush64

I am having a strange issue as of late and I first suspected it was my video card, now I am not 100% sure that is the issue.

I started losing FPS in some games. Skyrim used to run on ultra settings for me without AA and would keep. a consistent 60fps unless I was in a foggy swamp and it dropped maybe to 50. Quite a bit of other graphic intense games started doing the same.

I'm a card carrying member of fomat-a-holics and constantly format. When this issue started I first formatted my computer. No change. it was suggested to use Win7 for games. I had a copy, tried it and no change. All the while I would sometimes smell ceramic getting hot. My GPU has an accelero cooler and rarely sees 40c when I game and sits at 23c. when idle. My CPU is on water and stays within those same temp ranges.

The last couple of times I formatted I would install Win8.1 like I had dozens of times before and after the reboot my bios only lists my USB drives in the boot list. I have to go in and manually change it when I never ever had to in the past. The last couple of times I turned my computer and started it up it hangs at the bios logo screen and I have to hit the reset button. Earlier today my wireless mouse wouldn't work after a shutdown and was fine after a reboot.

I tried switched to the 2nd bios and same story. I have tried on default settings and even tried the beta bios and went back to the last "stable" release with no changes to my problems.

I just pulled my GPU out and gave it a good whiff and I don't smell ceramic on the card but I can smell it surrounding my desk. Is it my GPU going out or could my m/b be slowly dying. Both are within warranty and could be RMA'd but I don't want to do it to a non-broken component because that is how prices go up.

Any help at all diagnosing this problem would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> I am having a strange issue as of late and I first suspected it was my video card, now I am not 100% sure that is the issue.
> 
> I started losing FPS in some games. Skyrim used to run on ultra settings for me without AA and would keep. a consistent 60fps unless I was in a foggy swamp and it dropped maybe to 50. Quite a bit of other graphic intense games started doing the same.
> 
> I'm a card carrying member of fomat-a-holics and constantly format. When this issue started I first formatted my computer. No change. it was suggested to use Win7 for games. I had a copy, tried it and no change. All the while I would sometimes smell ceramic getting hot. My GPU has an accelero cooler and rarely sees 40c when I game and sits at 23c. when idle. My CPU is on water and stays within those same temp ranges.
> 
> The last couple of times I formatted I would install Win8.1 like I had dozens of times before and after the reboot my bios only lists my USB drives in the boot list. I have to go in and manually change it when I never ever had to in the past. The last couple of times I turned my computer and started it up it hangs at the bios logo screen and I have to hit the reset button. Earlier today my wireless mouse wouldn't work after a shutdown and was fine after a reboot.
> 
> I tried switched to the 2nd bios and same story. I have tried on default settings and even tried the beta bios and went back to the last "stable" release with no changes to my problems.
> 
> I just pulled my GPU out and gave it a good whiff and I don't smell ceramic on the card but I can smell it surrounding my desk. Is it my GPU going out or could my m/b be slowly dying. Both are within warranty and could be RMA'd but I don't want to do it to a non-broken component because that is how prices go up.
> 
> Any help at all diagnosing this problem would be greatly appreciated.


Hi friend before you RMA your mobo try to boot with onboard, if it fails again try another psu again with onboard if that fails too then RMA your mobo.


----------



## Mercyflush64

I ordered myself a GTX960 FTW 4gb from evga. I put this card in and it doesn't even work. I get the beeping sound of no video. Put it in the second slot and it works just fine. My top PCIe lane must be bad. I have read a lot of posts about this board and the top slot not working right from the start or after it has been running for a while.

I just got it a year and a half ago so it is still under warranty. I'm just wondering if it is even worth the hassle to RMA it and jave to be without a computer for two weeks or just go out and buy a different board. 1155 socket motherboards for my 2500k are getting harder to find.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mercyflush64*
> 
> I ordered myself a GTX960 FTW 4gb from evga. I put this card in and it doesn't even work. I get the beeping sound of no video. Put it in the second slot and it works just fine. My top PCIe lane must be bad. I have read a lot of posts about this board and the top slot not working right from the start or after it has been running for a while.
> 
> I just got it a year and a half ago so it is still under warranty. I'm just wondering if it is even worth the hassle to RMA it and jave to be without a computer for two weeks or just go out and buy a different board. 1155 socket motherboards for my 2500k are getting harder to find.


I'd check the CPU socket for bent pins, just to make sure that everything is alright there. It's possible to have bent exactly the pins for the lanes that are only wired to the first slot (the second slot gets only half).

Other than that, perhaps trying a beta BIOS might do something? There wasn't a "stable" BIOS released since 2012 or so, but when someone asks about a problem, Gigabyte tries to help and that's where the long list of beta BIOS versions comes from. There's a collection here:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys I'm switching over to Linux but for some reason my motherboard (Z77-D3H) doesn't seem to work well with any of the new kernels. The only version of Ubuntu that works correctly is 13 which is older than what I would like.

During the live CD, no USB ports function properly so I can't move my mouse, use my keyboard, etc. Are there any BIOS settings that I should be looking at to fix this problem? Or is my motherboard just incompatible with Linux?

Thanks.


----------



## deepor

There's settings where you can configure something for "EHCI" and "XHCI". EHCI is the name for the USB 2.0 controller and XHCI is the USB 3.0 one. Those might have something to do with your problem. I think what those options might do is make things workable for older operating system versions that don't yet know about the newest UEFI stuff.

What version of the BIOS do you use? When our boards were new, it was the time when things were switching over to full UEFI because of Windows 8 coming out. The various BIOS versions for my board (Z77X-D3H) all had changes in the menus that dealt with that.

My stuff generally seemed to work fine with all kernels including the newest 4.0. I'm using the newest BIOS version that's on the Gigabyte website. It is a beta version, not the stable one. The stable one is missing a lot of changes related to UEFI for me.


----------



## eBombzor

I've tried disabling and enabling XHCI and also using smart auto. I use the F23 modded BIOS from Tweaktown, however I've tested Linux with F22 and regular F23 with no success.

I've also tried using different kernels (3.17, 3.19, 4.0).

I've tried using Linux Mint but I the loading terminal screen got stuck at "EFI video" or something.

Thanks for the reply deepor.


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys I'm switching over to Linux but for some reason my motherboard (Z77-D3H) doesn't seem to work well with any of the new kernels. The only version of Ubuntu that works correctly is 13 which is older than what I would like.
> 
> During the live CD, no USB ports function properly so I can't move my mouse, use my keyboard, etc. Are there any BIOS settings that I should be looking at to fix this problem? Or is my motherboard just incompatible with Linux?
> 
> Thanks.


I would recommend that you try getting a keyboard into the PS/2 port. Sometimes when you do that, it allows the USB peripherals to work. I'm not sure why, but it seems to work for me. It also works sometimes in Windows when I get boot errors and have to use the system recovery - only the PS/2 keyboard works. Use the PS/2 keyboard to install Linux and see if the actual install works. If not, try getting the USB drivers and installing those.

Otherwise, try UEFI boot mode in the BIOS (sometimes that helps for me). Also make sure that you are in AHCI mode.
http://blog.asgaard.co.uk/2012/06/21/ga-z77-d3h-and-ubuntu-12-04-problems-and-solutions

Have you tried any other distros other than Linux Mint? I would recommend giving PCLinuxOS or one of the other user friendly distros.


----------



## deepor

I just went into the BIOS to see what's going on there.

Somewhere on the screen "BIOS Features", I have configured "Other OS" (the other possible options for that setting I talk about are Windows 8, Windows 8 WHQL).

On the screen "Peripherals", there's an empty line somewhere towards the bottom. For the top of the screen, I have everything about EHCI/XHCI set to "Enabled". After that empty line, there's "Legacy USB", and "EHCI hand-off" and "XHCI hand-off" or something like that. Those two "hand-off" (or "hand-over"?) are set to "Disabled". When you select those two settings, the info text in the top right of the screen says something about that it's only needed for old operating systems where the drivers don't know about XHCI etc. Maybe that's what makes things work on newer kernels and the default "Auto" is the same as "Enabled" and breaks something?


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> I would recommend that you try getting a keyboard into the PS/2 port. Sometimes when you do that, it allows the USB peripherals to work. I'm not sure why, but it seems to work for me. It also works sometimes in Windows when I get boot errors and have to use the system recovery - only the PS/2 keyboard works. Use the PS/2 keyboard to install Linux and see if the actual install works. If not, try getting the USB drivers and installing those.
> 
> Otherwise, try UEFI boot mode in the BIOS (sometimes that helps for me). Also make sure that you are in AHCI mode.
> http://blog.asgaard.co.uk/2012/06/21/ga-z77-d3h-and-ubuntu-12-04-problems-and-solutions
> 
> Have you tried any other distros other than Linux Mint? I would recommend giving PCLinuxOS or one of the other user friendly distros.


Unfortunately I cannot find another distro that's compatible with secure boot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> I just went into the BIOS to see what's going on there.
> 
> Somewhere on the screen "BIOS Features", I have configured "Other OS" (the other possible options for that setting I talk about are Windows 8, Windows 8 WHQL).
> 
> On the screen "Peripherals", there's an empty line somewhere towards the bottom. For the top of the screen, I have everything about EHCI/XHCI set to "Enabled". After that empty line, there's "Legacy USB", and "EHCI hand-off" and "XHCI hand-off" or something like that. Those two "hand-off" (or "hand-over"?) are set to "Disabled". When you select those two settings, the info text in the top right of the screen says something about that it's only needed for old operating systems where the drivers don't know about XHCI etc. Maybe that's what makes things work on newer kernels and the default "Auto" is the same as "Enabled" and breaks something?


I've tried enabling and disabling XHCI hand off and EHCI hand off and it still didn't work 

I think I'll have to pass up on Linux until I get another mobo. Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Unfortunately I cannot find another distro that's compatible with secure boot.


My solution was to simply disable Secure Boot.









The Windows 8.1 installation still works and does not say anything about Secure Boot being disabled.


----------



## Spirosssss

Asus makes poll whether to support nvme drives to older platforms or not. Any chance to see it also happening from Giga? Would be awesome for our UD5


----------



## Agiel

any help to OC thisa board with an 3570K, lets say 4.4 ~ 4.5 ??


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agiel*
> 
> any help to OC thisa board with an 3570K, lets say 4.4 ~ 4.5 ??


Check here http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

What bios are you guys using? I've been on F7 forever and it treated me well. Sadly I had to update after picking up a 980 ti. The latest beta on gigabytes website has been a nightmare for me, 14q. Any recommendations?


----------



## Agiel

F18 is the best


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> What bios are you guys using? I've been on F7 forever and it treated me well. Sadly I had to update after picking up a 980 ti. The latest beta on gigabytes website has been a nightmare for me, 14q. Any recommendations?


Here's a collection of all versions that were shared by Gigabyte's tech support at some point:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647

From what I understood, those are often versions that were never on Gigabyte's website. They were just sent to people that asked for help with a problem. There's no real documentation about changes for the different versions, so good luck with trying to find the one that works best for you.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Lol, thanks. I ended up trying F14 which is the latest non-beta. This time the cpu clocks fine and by that I mean at least as well as on F7. On the other hand I'm really struggling to get my memory at 1866 which worked fine on F7. Tried loosening up some timings. May have to just give cas 10 a shot. Raising vccsa seemed to help. Made booting the pc snappier and took prime longer to cause a whea. Still prime would force a whea in about 15 minutes and I was near the top of Intel's recommended vccsa range.

I may get lazy and just settle for 1600mhz. Feels so wrong though.


----------



## deepor

For stability of Samsung memory, there are "slew rate" settings in the BIOS. There are two of those at the end of the screen where you configure timings. They aren't in the oldest versions of the BIOS, are only in the newer versions of the BIOS.

What values to use for Samsung memory is discussed somewhere in this thread, but no idea where, and we're now on page 653, so finding it seems a bit hopeless. Try your luck with the search function.

If you can't find anything, try using 4 for the slew rates (I have a hunch there was something about using '4' with Samsung).


----------



## Agiel

i tell you again, use f18, it's the latest non-beta, GA Z77X-UD3H Rev 1.0


----------



## deepor

He has a different board.


----------



## Agiel

he has the d3h


----------



## deepor

In his signature, it says UD5H, not UD3H?


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> In his signature, it says UD5H, not UD3H?


Yup, using a ud5h


----------



## Agiel

nice board ud5h has more current phases than ud3h ?? how many ?


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Not really sure, I bought to to do tri-fire tbh.


----------



## Agiel

mine has 9


----------



## Esperante

I'm really thinking about getting the UD3H. I've got some questions.

Has anybody had any issues with 290s and 4690k? My current mobo rejects this card. It is a weird problem, hence the replacement.

I've seen the online manual have fan control in the BIOS that actually works (compared to my current mobo). Confirm?

Thanks for any help.

NVM, this isn't the Z97 topic.


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Anyone have modded Intel USB 3.0 drivers for Windows 10?
Generic drivers only allow up to USB 2.0 speeds.

https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/21129 official drivers only support Win7


----------



## sc489

My Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H (BIOS F16G) motherboard works fine in Windows 8.1 Pro in UEFI & Secure Boot Mode.

It's not on Gigabyte's compatibility list http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/381/w10.html but the Windows 10 Compatibility Advisor states my PC is compatible with Windows 10.

I noticed Windows 10 drivers for the GA-Z77X-UD5H on the Gigabyte web site but when I asked Gigabyte support they said it's not supported since the motherboard is not on their compatibility list .

Does this motherboard work in Windows 10 in UEFI & Secure Boot Mode? Has anyone used this motherboard in Windows 10 and can confirm it is compatible?


----------



## Sugita2Junko

Got USB 3.0 to work at full speed in win10. Requires modified intel drivers with custom driver signing.


----------



## frag85

On the UD3H: Anyone have any issues getting GTX970s to work in SLI+Surround? Each card works fine individually but won't go into Surround or SLI mode.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag85*
> 
> On the UD3H: Anyone have any issues getting GTX970s to work in SLI+Surround? Each card works fine individually but won't go into Surround or SLI mode.


What are the PCI-E slots running at, 3.0 8x?

Are you sure the second slot works?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sc489*
> 
> My Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H (BIOS F16G) motherboard works fine in Windows 8.1 Pro in UEFI & Secure Boot Mode.
> 
> It's not on Gigabyte's compatibility list http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/381/w10.html but the Windows 10 Compatibility Advisor states my PC is compatible with Windows 10.
> 
> I noticed Windows 10 drivers for the GA-Z77X-UD5H on the Gigabyte web site but when I asked Gigabyte support they said it's not supported since the motherboard is not on their compatibility list .
> 
> Does this motherboard work in Windows 10 in UEFI & Secure Boot Mode? Has anyone used this motherboard in Windows 10 and can confirm it is compatible?


My wife's pc is running this board with a 3770K and Windows 10 Home x64. However it's an "update in place" from Windows 7, and was not using gpt when updated.
But it should work fine...also if you are going to do the upgrade in place from 8.1 then just wait until it says it's activated, then do a clean install and delete all partitions and when it installs you should be OK. I find there is less driver conflicts with a clean install.


----------



## sc489

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> My wife's pc is running this board with a 3770K and Windows 10 Home x64. However it's an "update in place" from Windows 7, and was not using gpt when updated.
> But it should work fine...also if you are going to do the upgrade in place from 8.1 then just wait until it says it's activated, then do a clean install and delete all partitions and when it installs you should be OK. I find there is less driver conflicts with a clean install.


That's reassuring - thanks.

I think I'll turn off secure boot and give the upgrade to Windows 10 a try - with a full Macrium backup of course before hand.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sc489*
> 
> That's reassuring - thanks.
> 
> I think I'll turn off secure boot and give the upgrade to Windows 10 a try - with a full Macrium backup of course before hand.


Yes, I've been very dependent on Macrium throughout upgrading all our computers to Windows 10...but at least MS finally seems to have their activation figured out and working.


----------



## frag85

Can the On/Off quickcharge feature be disabled? I did not see anything int he bios or manual. I've never used it; could never get on/off to work, and any port charges my phone the same as any laptop/desktop USB plug i've used, about 1/3 as fast as using the wall charger.

I recently picked up a USB DAC that has a very bright power indicator light on the front that is constantly on even when completely shut down, that and I'd like to stop the power going to my mouse 24/7 so it actually shuts off when I shut down.

So can I disable the ON/OFF Quickcharge?


----------



## Necrogeddon

Hello guys, I own a Z77X-UD5H for 3 years now without major problems. Last year and a half or so , I flashed bios with the latest one (F16g). I have noticed, when the temperature is relatively low and I start the pc next day from cold, it hungs in a loop which ends in the 96 debug code. It never happened during summertime. The loop doesnt stop even with the restart button. I have to press power off for 4 secs and then when I power it back on again it always posts nice and clean. Any ideas?


----------



## Boinz

And reverting to the previous BIOS?


----------



## Necrogeddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> And reverting to the previous BIOS?


Haven't tried that. Wouldnt want to mess with bios downgrades as this is going to be sold to my best buddie and I wanted it fixed.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrogeddon*
> 
> Haven't tried that. Wouldnt want to mess with bios downgrades as this is going to be sold to my best buddie and I wanted it fixed.


Give it a try, maybe that "winter/cold" error might be fixed. Just do a cmos reset so that it defaults to the original factory BIOS then just download and update to the 2nd most recent BIOS.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Give it a try, maybe that "winter/cold" error might be fixed. Just do a cmos reset so that it defaults to the original factory BIOS then just download and update to the 2nd most recent BIOS.


I believe you misspoke. Doing a CMOS reset does not change the BIOS version, but will revert to default settings. After doing that and booting it's always a good idea to load optimized defaults before making further changes.

My wife's pc (formerly mine) is running a Z77X-UD5H/3770K with the F14 BIOS and never any problems.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I believe you misspoke. Doing a CMOS reset does not change the BIOS version, but will revert to default settings. After doing that and booting it's always a good idea to load optimized defaults before making further changes.
> 
> My wife's pc (formerly mine) is running a Z77X-UD5H/3770K with the F14 BIOS and never any problems.


Wait, you're telling me CMOS reset doesn't actually default to the original BIOS that came with the motherboard? I could've sworn that's what my z77-DS3H does.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Wait, you're telling me CMOS reset doesn't actually default to the original BIOS that came with the motherboard? I could've sworn that's what my z77-DS3H does.


No, it just reverts to default settings (not the same as loading optimized defaults though).
Check the version with any utility such as cpu-z before and after a CMOS clear and you will see.








Of course if the original version was never changed, that's another thing.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> No, it just reverts to default settings (not the same as loading optimized defaults though).
> Check the version with any utility such as cpu-z before and after a CMOS clear and you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course if the original version was never changed, that's another thing.


My whole life has been a lie.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> My whole life has been a lie.


No fears. The sun will yet shine another day.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> No, it just reverts to default settings (not the same as loading optimized defaults though).
> Check the version with any utility such as cpu-z before and after a CMOS clear and you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course if the original version was never changed, that's another thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My whole life has been a lie.
Click to expand...


----------



## Necrogeddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrogeddon*
> 
> Haven't tried that. Wouldnt want to mess with bios downgrades as this is going to be sold to my best buddie and I wanted it fixed.


Changed 4 different bioses to no avail. Every time the pc stays around 7-8 hour shut down, it never manages to boot with the first time. I have to shut it down, and power it on again, it says taht it didnt boot so I get into bios and simply restart. It boots every time with the second try. I changed psu, it didnt change anything, I tried another graphics card, the same, ran memtest86 and no probs, ofcourse I cleared the cmos many times. I began to suspect the motherboard battery, but its only been 3 years and the system does not lose its bios settings. 96 code every morning....damn!


----------



## Yetyhunter

I just ordered this board. Will I see a noticeable improvement from my current asrock p67 extreme4 B2 revision like better OC results, more stability and performance ?


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrogeddon*
> 
> Changed 4 different bioses to no avail. Every time the pc stays around 7-8 hour shut down, it never manages to boot with the first time. I have to shut it down, and power it on again, it says taht it didnt boot so I get into bios and simply restart. It boots every time with the second try. I changed psu, it didnt change anything, I tried another graphics card, the same, ran memtest86 and no probs, ofcourse I cleared the cmos many times. I began to suspect the motherboard battery, but its only been 3 years and the system does not lose its bios settings. 96 code every morning....damn!


If it is really driving you crazy you could strip it down to just the basic components (ram, power, cpu) and pull the board out of case and put on cardboard. See if it boots clean from there


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> I just ordered this board. Will I see a noticeable improvement from my current asrock p67 extreme4 B2 revision like better OC results, more stability and performance ?


The Sandy didn't seem to benefit from this board as much as the Ivory's did, but still a solid board. Kind of getting old though


----------



## Necrogeddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkeater*
> 
> If it is really driving you crazy you could strip it down to just the basic components (ram, power, cpu) and pull the board out of case and put on cardboard. See if it boots clean from there


Thats what I am gonna do. Either way I was going to take it out from the case beacause it is already sold and I hope the change of case and the new assembly will be a "shock " for the modo and start to behave as always. I am trying to comprehend the cold morning loop and I can only imagine contraction of the pci contacts on the board due to the low temps. Lets see....


----------



## Yetyhunter

I will try to overclock my CPU at 4.8 GHZ at least this evening when I get home. Are there any guides for Z77 OC'ing with sandy bridge ?
BIOS is way too different from my old Asrock board. I don't know half of what does options mean. I could really use some help. How can I set my CPU voltage to be dynamic ?


----------



## hht92

Hi i have a problem with my pc i am running a 3770k (stock) on UD3H, last week my friend had trouble with his ram sticks (corsair vengeance), so i took them and put them in my ring to run MemTest
after i put my ram back again pc start doing reboot loops i reseat my sticks with power off and then was ok, today while browsing i had unexpected shut down (like you put power out) and reboot loops
i checked the debug code and it was 51
This time i cleared Cmos Run MemTest (0 erros).
Is my mobo dying or its CPU problem?

Edit:Now its working but if that happens again what i should do ?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hi i have a problem with my pc i am running a 3770k (stock) on UD3H, last week my friend had trouble with his ram sticks (corsair vengeance), so i took them and put them in my ring to run MemTest
> after i put my ram back again pc start doing reboot loops i reseat my sticks with power off and then was ok, today while browsing i had unexpected shut down (like you put power out) and reboot loops
> i checked the debug code and it was 51
> This time i cleared Cmos Run MemTest (0 erros).
> Is my mobo dying or its CPU problem?
> 
> Edit:Now its working but if that happens again what i should do ?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I have same CPU and Mobo here are a few ideas:

Reseat a single stick of ram and try running with a single stick of ram in the first slot. Then try the second, third, and fourth slots to see if you have a bad ram slot. Try loading optimized defaults within the bios and see if that helps.

Try installing a fresh windows on another harddrive and run on that for a few days to see if it wasn't a corrupted driver (I have had BSODS from corrupted display drivers)

If all else fails, I found using the Beta Bios (version F20e) helped me substantially with ram stability. The overall system seems more stable as well. I got it from here http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html. I am not sure if this could void a potential future RMA using this bios though but you may be out of the RMA period anyway.

I've had the 51 code before many times and it was either my display driver or my ram, I don't get it anymore after switching to beta bios, swapping my kingston hyper x for 30nm greens and getting rid of my junk radeon 7970 for a gtx 770. I am not sure which of these fixed it but I used to get a lot of BSODS. Now I hardly ever get them.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> I have same CPU and Mobo here are a few ideas:
> 
> Reseat a single stick of ram and try running with a single stick of ram in the first slot. Then try the second, third, and fourth slots to see if you have a bad ram slot. Try loading optimized defaults within the bios and see if that helps.
> 
> Try installing a fresh windows on another harddrive and run on that for a few days to see if it wasn't a corrupted driver (I have had BSODS from corrupted display drivers)
> 
> If all else fails, I found using the Beta Bios (version F20e) helped me substantially with ram stability. The overall system seems more stable as well. I got it from here http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html. I am not sure if this could void a potential future RMA using this bios though but you may be out of the RMA period anyway.
> 
> I've had the 51 code before many times and it was either my display driver or my ram, I don't get it anymore after switching to beta bios, swapping my kingston hyper x for 30nm greens and getting rid of my junk radeon 7970 for a gtx 770. I am not sure which of these fixed it but I used to get a lot of BSODS. Now I hardly ever get them.


Thanks for the reply.It wasn't bsod just instant power off like when you hold power button. Run many tests (Memtest, cpu stress, gaming) but no problems for now. When i put the previous week my friends ram happened exactly the same also it was in windows 7, maybe cause i didnt load default settings then it bugged? or its just was a brownout ?


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.It wasn't bsod just instant power off like when you hold power button. Run many tests (Memtest, cpu stress, gaming) but no problems for now. When i put the previous week my friends ram happened exactly the same, maybe cause i didnt load default settings then it bugged? or its just was a brownout ?


Ok 51 is the code on the board. Its been about a year since I had that but from what I remember it did that to me I changed hardware and boot failed several times in a row.. Keep using it and maybe the problem is gone.

Boot Code 51: Memory initialization errors occurs.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> Ok 51 is the code on the board. Its been about a year since I had that but from what I remember it did that to me I changed hardware and boot failed several times in a row.. Keep using it and maybe the problem is gone.
> 
> Boot Code 51: Memory initialization errors occurs.


Yes besides i cant rma until something is complete broken, now its working fine (code A0)

Maybe it was because i change the ram (to test it) and forgot to load default.

He had ram issues as well probably his mobo slots (that old P67 Extreme4







)


----------



## hht92

I have still 4 months guarantee for my mobo, until then i will see, cause i dont want to change my system yet.
Too much expensive here in Greece for new products.


----------



## Agiel

i need urgent, somehow my main bios is corrupted, and im forced to use Backup bios now, when i go main bios i get no post and a series of beeps, like beep, beep, beep, beep, then repeat, how can i reflash the main using backup ? what should i do ? i really really need ur help guys.

z77x-ud3h Rev 1.0 bios f18

i get debug code 15 and then stops at 4F

i read it from Gigabyte:

BIOS Recover Method Via Manually Invoking BACKUP BIOS Auto-Recovery
Using Power Supply - On/Off Switch

It is possible to make the BIOS Auto-Recovery kick in (Dual BIOS) and re-flash the MAIN BIOS with the contents of the BACKUP BIOS.

This is a simple and easy method for anyone to try before having to resort to other more difficult methods, or a RMA.

1. Shut off the power supply using the switch on the back of the PSU, wait 10-15 seconds.
2. Press and hold the case Power On swtich, then while still holding turn on the power supply from the switch on the rear.
3. Still holding the case power on switch, the board will start, once it does release the case power on switch and shut off the power supply via the switch on the read of the unit. (Do the latter two parts as quickly as you can once the board starts)
4. The board will shut down.
5. Turn the power supply back on using the switch on the rear of the unit.
6. Turn on the motherboard by pressing the case power on button.

Once the board starts this time you should see the Gigabyte splash screen, or POST page, then the Auto-Recovery from Dual BIOS will kick in. You will see a checksum error, and then recovery from BACKUP BIOS will begin. Once it is done reboot your machine and enter the BIOS and load optimized defaults then save/apply/reboot back to BIOS.

Now you are done, and will be using whatever BIOS was in your BACKUP BIOS, From there you can attempt whatever you were previously trying, or update your BIOS to the latest version.

BUT MY QUESTION IS, since im on backup bios (SWITCH ITS FLIPPED TO UP) shoulw i stay with switch on Backup and do that ? or i switch it to main biosa and start to do that ? that's where im lost cos my board wont post in main bios.


----------



## Agiel

well i did with the restart and switch off PSU ... and im back to main bios


----------



## sixor

stupid ud3h

many times the bios has corrupted itself

why this happens?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> stupid ud3h
> 
> many times the bios has corrupted itself
> 
> why this happens?


I just had to reflash my Z97 UD5H, for some reason I moved the OS SSD's SATA cable to a different connection after changing some wiring and the BIOS went nuts. lol. After plugging the OS SSD's cable back into the Intel SATA 0 slot and reflashing BIOS all is good again.


----------



## Agiel

they have seriuos drugs problems, hahaha


----------



## sixor

i really regret buying the ud3h

this thing had issues since day1

specially usb ports, to this day they still haunt me, you know those 2 ports next to ps2, well they can´t even handle a x360 pad, or my steelseries mouse, etc

also the mobo died once for no reason, until suddenly came back to life

now 2 bios corrupt per week

come on

and font get me started on the crap driver and bios updates and support, they never fixed fast boot for windows 8 10


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> i really regret buying the ud3h
> 
> this thing had issues since day1
> 
> specially usb ports, to this day they still haunt me, you know those 2 ports next to ps2, well they can´t even handle a x360 pad, or my steelseries mouse, etc
> 
> also the mobo died once for no reason, until suddenly came back to life
> 
> now 2 bios corrupt per week
> 
> come on
> 
> and font get me started on the crap driver and bios updates and support, they never fixed fast boot for windows 8 10


For Gigabyte, I've pretty much stuck with the UD5 series since Ivy Bridge. They don't seem to be too popular but they always seem to have fewer problems, and early BIOS revisions come pretty quick. Fortunately my P67A-UD3 & Z68XP-UD3 were good boards, though.


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> i really regret buying the ud3h
> 
> this thing had issues since day1
> 
> specially usb ports, to this day they still haunt me, you know those 2 ports next to ps2, well they can´t even handle a x360 pad, or my steelseries mouse, etc
> 
> also the mobo died once for no reason, until suddenly came back to life
> 
> now 2 bios corrupt per week
> 
> come on
> 
> and font get me started on the crap driver and bios updates and support, they never fixed fast boot for windows 8 10


UD3H works well for me since I started running the F20e beta bios from Tweaktown. Seems stable and I run my 3770K for several years now at 4.5 Ghz 1.25v, 1800 Mhz CL 9 30nm Samsung ram 4x4GB @ 1.35v. My VIA USBs have died before and I had to do a few driver install, uninstall, wipe, install nonsense to get them working again. I switched to running a PCI-E mini card with 5 USB 3.0 slots.


----------



## Agiel

its normal that sometime i shutdown my pc and when i wake up i have some rare BSOD and the bios light start switching from bios 1 to bios backup ? i have to unplug power cord and plug it and turn pc on and some dame happens again or not ... what should i do ?? im using F18 BIOS update wich is the lates prior to BETA.


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agiel*
> 
> its normal that sometime i shutdown my pc and when i wake up i have some rare BSOD and the bios light start switching from bios 1 to bios backup ? i have to unplug power cord and plug it and turn pc on and some dame happens again or not ... what should i do ?? im using F18 BIOS update wich is the lates prior to BETA.


Could try the other bios? The board is Dual Bios and has a dip switch to select the other bios.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agiel*
> 
> its normal that sometime i shutdown my pc and when i wake up i have some rare BSOD and the bios light start switching from bios 1 to bios backup ? i have to unplug power cord and plug it and turn pc on and some dame happens again or not ... what should i do ?? im using F18 BIOS update wich is the lates prior to BETA.


Try what Vario said or reflash the BIOS. Me, I would reflash at some point but if the backup works for you then you are good for now.


----------



## willyum32

I have a question and I thought it would be best to ask here rather than start a new thread.

I need to replace my motherboard, specifically the Z97X-UD5H-BK, due to damaged pins. Some are bent and I know one of them is completely snapped off. I plan on getting the exact same motherboard, a refurbished one online. I'll be using the same CPU, RAM, SSD, everything will be the same except for the motherboard (same model still). My concern is will I be able to keep my system intact? I don't really have important files other than movies music and whatnot, but my Witcher 3 is heavily modded and I would like to avoid going through the whole process again







Thanks for the help.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willyum32*
> 
> I have a question and I thought it would be best to ask here rather than start a new thread.
> 
> I need to replace my motherboard, specifically the Z97X-UD5H-BK, due to damaged pins. Some are bent and I know one of them is completely snapped off. I plan on getting the exact same motherboard, a refurbished one online. I'll be using the same CPU, RAM, SSD, everything will be the same except for the motherboard (same model still). My concern is will I be able to keep my system intact? I don't really have important files other than movies music and whatnot, but my Witcher 3 is heavily modded and I would like to avoid going through the whole process again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Have you tried an RMA with Gigabyte? They have straightened pins out for me in the past. If they have to replace the socket they might charge you but still likely cheaper than a new board.


----------



## Agiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Try what Vario said or reflash the BIOS. Me, I would reflash at some point but if the backup works for you then you are good for now.


yeah my Backup works, should i reflash same version my main ? its f18, i dont like betas, ia hav a F22 but its Beta, should i downgrade or just reflash same bios ?? should i do it in windows (as i always do) of should i do it in Bios usin q-flash ?


----------



## Yetyhunter

I need some opinions on this issue I'm having. So my CPU is overclocked to 4.7 GHZ with 1.416v during load using a dynamic voltage. I NEVER get any crashes in windows or games and tested prime95 for 20 minutes, could not go longer because it was too hot. During gaming I never exceed 80*C. SO the problem is when I cold boot the first time in the day randomly it fails too boot and I have to power it down and restart, sometimes I have to repeat this process more than once. Exactly the same thing happens with my Asrock p67 extreme4 board only more often. This thing plagues me from 2011.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agiel*
> 
> yeah my Backup works, should i reflash same version my main ? its f18, i dont like betas, ia hav a F22 but its Beta, should i downgrade or just reflash same bios ?? should i do it in windows (as i always do) of should i do it in Bios usin q-flash ?


Well I've never had any particular problems with betas, although they are usually made to solve some particular problem they might not work for everyone.
I would say use whatever version you like, you can always keep two different BIOS versions between the main/backup.
I prefer using Qflash but I've never bricked a board using @bios either. You can either use F8 from inside the BIOS or keep spamming End while booting up to access Qflash.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> I need some opinions on this issue I'm having. So my CPU is overclocked to 4.7 GHZ with 1.416v during load using a dynamic voltage. I NEVER get any crashes in windows or games and tested prime95 for 20 minutes, could not go longer because it was too hot. During gaming I never exceed 80*C. SO the problem is when I cold boot the first time in the day randomly it fails too boot and I have to power it down and restart, sometimes I have to repeat this process more than once. Exactly the same thing happens with my Asrock p67 extreme4 board only more often. This thing plagues me from 2011.


Sorry, I missed your post. I hate those little gremlins that cause cold boots. Sometimes the BIOS gets corrupted and that's usually in my list of things to do:
sfc /scannow
chkdsk c:/f
reflash BIOS

Once you eliminate those I would try dropping to 4.6 for a while and see what happens. If the problems go away, then it's probably 1.416v is not enough for 4.7, even though you passed some tests.


----------



## Yetyhunter

Well, windows was reinstalled many times and sfc/scans were done as well. I did reflash the Bios, i even changed the motherboard so it has to be related to the cpu meaning almost certainly that voltage is insufficient. But it could also be the ram. Its running at 2133mhz, isn t this a bit too much for sandybridge ?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> Well, windows was reinstalled many times and sfc/scans were done as well. I did reflash the Bios, i even changed the motherboard so it has to be related to the cpu meaning almost certainly that voltage is insufficient. But it could also be the ram. Its running at 2133mhz, isn t this a bit too much for sandybridge ?


Well you can set everything back to stock settings and only make one change at a time until the problems start.
I'm running a 3770K on my UD5H but only 1600 RAM, which is supposedly what the motherboard supports.


----------



## Agiel

ok, i will do it with q-flash, i only ask couse i never did it with q-flash i always use @flash


----------



## Yetyhunter

I just got a new arctic liquid freezer 240 and all I can say is that this thing is amazing. I was getting temps over 93*C with my old hyper 212+ at 1.416v and now it won't go over 65*C in prime95. During gaming it hovers at about 55*C. I overclocked my CPU even further to 4.9 GHZ but it need 1.474v. I seems to be stable after prime95 testing. I'm just worried if this isn't to much voltage for 24/7 usage. Hopefully the boot failures will stop too.


----------



## Agiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> I just got a new arctic liquid freezer 240 and all I can say is that this thing is amazing. I was getting temps over 93*C with my old hyper 212+ at 1.416v and now it won't go over 65*C in prime95. During gaming it hovers at about 55*C. I overclocked my CPU even further to 4.9 GHZ but it need 1.474v. I seems to be stable after prime95 testing. I'm just worried if this isn't to much voltage for 24/7 usage. Hopefully the boot failures will stop too.


the hyper 212+ and the Evo 202 are mid-coolers, it can't cool high overclocks, all i can push with mine is 4.2 with 85/90c temps, with ambient temp over 32c .... and my case its midtower, maybe if i had a full tower i could fo beyond


----------



## CravinR1

My i5 3570k did fine at 4.4 ghz, but I didn't try it on my 3770k. I run it 24/7 at 1.29v 4.5 ghz with a h90


----------



## Agiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CravinR1*
> 
> My i5 3570k did fine at 4.4 ghz, but I didn't try it on my 3770k. I run it 24/7 at 1.29v 4.5 ghz with a h90


i was having a pain in the ass making mine stable at 4.0 with no fixed voltages back in my days


----------



## sixor

3570k 4.4 1.27

4.5 needs like 1.35 lol


----------



## Agiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> 3570k 4.4 1.27
> 
> 4.5 needs like 1.35 lol


yeah but i dont like fixed voltages, i was talking about offset OC


----------



## sixor

i dont understand offset

can anybody help me?

if i need 1.27 1.28 vcore for 4.4

then what settings should i use for dinamic vcore?


----------



## deepor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> i dont understand offset
> 
> can anybody help me?
> 
> if i need 1.27 1.28 vcore for 4.4
> 
> then what settings should i use for dinamic vcore?


It's different for everyone. Each CPU is unique. You can look up your "VID" in HWINFO's sensor window somewhere. This "VID" changes depending on your CPU and what programs are running currently. Your Vcore is basically VID plus DVID.

The starting point will be, you use for example Prime95 to stress your CPU while it's set to 4.4 GHz. You look at HWINFO and make a note about the VID you see. You can do this while you use your fixed vcore overclocking settings for 4.4GHz. You then set DVID to the result of "DVID = Vcore - VID".

The "Vcore = VID + DVID" formula is only correct if you set LLC to "Turbo". With the lower LLC settings (meaning "Standard", "Low", "Medium", "High"), Vcore will drop when the CPU is hot and uses a lot of power.

If you use LLC=Turbo and set DVID exactly to what gets you 1.28V Vcore while Prime95 is running, then you might get problems with instability on the desktop and in games. The CPU will only use the highest VID while you test with Prime95, so while Prime95 is testing you will use 1.28V Vcore and everything will appear stable, but while normal programs are running Vcore will be lower and you crash.

You can fix this by using the other LLC settings that are below Turbo. You can try Medium or High for example. When using those, you then have to increase DVID so that you get back to 1.28V for Prime95 testing. This is why the "Vcore = VID + DVID" formula, you only have to think about it as a starting point.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepor*
> 
> It's different for everyone. Each CPU is unique. You can look up your "VID" in HWINFO's sensor window somewhere. This "VID" changes depending on your CPU and what programs are running currently. Your Vcore is basically VID plus DVID.
> 
> The starting point will be, you use for example Prime95 to stress your CPU while it's set to 4.4 GHz. You look at HWINFO and make a note about the VID you see. You can do this while you use your fixed vcore overclocking settings for 4.4GHz. You then set DVID to the result of "DVID = Vcore - VID".
> 
> The "Vcore = VID + DVID" formula is only correct if you set LLC to "Turbo". With the lower LLC settings (meaning "Standard", "Low", "Medium", "High"), Vcore will drop when the CPU is hot and uses a lot of power.
> 
> If you use LLC=Turbo and set DVID exactly to what gets you 1.28V Vcore while Prime95 is running, then you might get problems with instability on the desktop and in games. The CPU will only use the highest VID while you test with Prime95, so while Prime95 is testing you will use 1.28V Vcore and everything will appear stable, but while normal programs are running Vcore will be lower and you crash.
> 
> You can fix this by using the other LLC settings that are below Turbo. You can try Medium or High for example. When using those, you then have to increase DVID so that you get back to 1.28V for Prime95 testing. This is why the "Vcore = VID + DVID" formula, you only have to think about it as a starting point.


thanks

kinda weird jaja

will try


----------



## Yetyhunter

1) How can I overclock the memory ? It seems to be locked at 2133 mhz with max multiplier at 21.33
2) How can I control the fan speeds? Is it possible to control the individually.
3) Where should I connect the AIO pump cable?


----------



## Agiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> 1) How can I overclock the memory ? It seems to be locked at 2133 mhz with max multiplier at 21.33
> 2) How can I control the fan speeds? Is it possible to control the individually.
> 3) Where should I connect the AIO pump cable?


dude Oc memory is really annoying and hard to accomplish and u may end up making ur whole system unstable, my advice, keep them as it is, besides memory speeds dont make any good bump in your preformance.


----------



## Yetyhunter

Ok. I'll leave it as it is. And how about fan speed control? I'm trying to make my system as silent as possible. What options do I have. Never understood what PWM stands for


----------



## Agiel

then choose Silent mode, i never get that PWM thing ... hahahah


----------



## Yetyhunter

It is on silent mode but it's still loud. Lol i thought there was another way to adjust it more ,,manually''


----------



## deepor

There should be a program from Gigabyte to control fans better in Windows but I never used it. There's also a tool named "SpeedFan" where you can get full control over what happens with the fans.

In SpeedFan, you can take temperature readings from some sensor (does not have to be from motherboard, can also the temperature from the graphics card), and use that to control the fan speed of the outputs of the motherboard. You can't control each fan individually on my Gigabyte Z77X motherboard. The system fan headers are all tied together and use the same speed. The CPU fan header is a separate control.

That SpeedFan program is weird to use. I kind of forgot how it works. I remember there's a lot to configure on different screens in its settings before it starts working right. It also might need special settings depending on the exact motherboard, so will work a bit different between Z77X-UD3H and Z77X-UD5H etc., so you need to find out what the signals do by experimenting.

My settings are something like, when both CPU and GPU are below 40C or so, then the fans use a 35% speed signal. When either CPU or GPU gets hot, the case fans all start increasing their speed up to something around 80% for a very hot temperature (like 85C for CPU for example).

About that thing you mentioned where you can't change the memory speed in the BIOS, that could be the BIOS being broken. That happened for me a lot in the past when experimenting with different overclocking settings. The settings sometimes didn't change anything. I changed the multiplier, but after reboot the speed didn't change. The menus showed my changed setting, but it wasn't used. The only way I found to fix that problem was flashing the same BIOS version again. This was pretty annoying because it wipes all your settings.


----------



## sixor

wow i really hate my z77x ud3h

so now my pc turns itself on, i guess the power button is bad on the case, so when i turn off the pc i hit the psu switch

after a while i turn on the switch and turn on the pc================ your main bios is corrupted bla bla bla, very annoying having to setup everything everytime

why this happens? IT IS THE BATTERY INSIDE THE MOBO?


----------



## deepor

Perhaps the power button is always pressed? I mean, the way it is broken is that it looks like it is always pressed from the point of view of the board.

When you turn the PC on by holding down the power button (without letting go), then you get that menu where the board thinks the first BIOS has an issue and offers to flash it again.

Try to see how to replace the power button on your case. What you can do right now is, you could disconnect the power button from the board, and then connect the reset button into that spot. You can then use the reset button to turn the PC on/off. Also, maybe see if you can get the option to work where you can turn the PC on through hitting keys on the keyboard.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> wow i really hate my z77x ud3h
> 
> so now my pc turns itself on, i guess the power button is bad on the case, so when i turn off the pc i hit the psu switch
> 
> after a while i turn on the switch and turn on the pc================ your main bios is corrupted bla bla bla, very annoying having to setup everything everytime
> 
> why this happens? IT IS THE BATTERY INSIDE THE MOBO?


First remove the power button cable from the motherboard, use the orange button on the right of the motherboard to start your pc, if this don't resolve the problem go in your bios in Power management tab and disable Wake on lan.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> wow i really hate my z77x ud3h
> 
> so now my pc turns itself on, i guess the power button is bad on the case, so when i turn off the pc i hit the psu switch
> 
> after a while i turn on the switch and turn on the pc================ your main bios is corrupted bla bla bla, very annoying having to setup everything everytime
> 
> why this happens? IT IS THE BATTERY INSIDE THE MOBO?


Replace the switch. Not %100 sure about the BIOS being affected but could definitely impact the OS by sudden shutdown with psu switch.
If you are going to keep shutting it off this way I suggest running CHKDSK C:/F often.


----------



## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> First remove the power button cable from the motherboard, use the orange button on the right of the motherboard to start your pc, if this don't resolve the problem go in your bios in Power management tab and disable Wake on lan.


will do

wake on lan is disabled by default

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Replace the switch. Not %100 sure about the BIOS being affected but could definitely impact the OS by sudden shutdown with psu switch.
> If you are going to keep shutting it off this way I suggest running CHKDSK C:/F often.


how do you replace a switch? (the power button on the case) buy another case? lol

and no, i dont sudden shutdown

i shut down windows, then kill the power on the psu so the pc wont turn on by itself because of the bad power button


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixor*
> 
> will do
> 
> wake on lan is disabled by default
> how do you replace a switch? (the power button on the case) buy another case? lol
> 
> and no, i dont sudden shutdown
> 
> i shut down windows, then kill the power on the psu so the pc wont turn on by itself because of the bad power button


You should be able to buy or request a replacement switch from the case manufacturer. I've had parts break on a case and had them replaced, but the length of time depends on the manufacturer...sometimes they will step outside of the warranty period for free replacement and sometimes they will charge a nominal fee.
Otherwise you can buy a switch that may not match your case and mount it somewhere.
GL.


----------



## Bravoexo

Also sounds like an overclock gone wrong... or unsustanable anymore, Probably a PSU problem.

I remember this happened to me was when Windows 10 decided to wake up my PC (Z77X-UP5TH) to update itself. But the Bios losing settings when from a time I had a bad PSU as well. (Gigabyte Odin 1200W wasn't compatible with the Z77X-UP5 TH)


----------



## mandrix

Rats. Took the old 6850 video card out of my wifes Z77X-UD5H & replaced with a water cooled 7950 left over from another build and it does not work at all in pcie x16 slot.







Had to move it to the second (x8) slot and there it functions at least. (Works fine in my main rig in pcie x16 slot however)

This has happened before on a Gigabyte board but they fixed and returned it quickly. Not sure how I could have borked something but oh well, at the time I bought the two UD5H's I was pretty impressed with them.









Warranty long gone now.
Oh well. She will not know the difference it just irks me that something happened to board somehow.

Just venting. lol.







Overall my Gigabyte boards have been pretty good, just have their quirks like all of them I guess.


----------



## Yetyhunter

How can I control the system/case fans trough the BIOS ? I tried every setting at the system fans still run at max.


----------



## Agiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> How can I control the system/case fans trough the BIOS ? I tried every setting at the system fans still run at max.


well i dont know how to use the PMW option so u run them ad default


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> How can I control the system/case fans trough the BIOS ? I tried every setting at the system fans still run at max.


PWM in these Gigabyte boards is bad,only the cpu header has good PWM option, what i did was to connect all my fans to the cpu header with a PWM 1-to-4 Splitter from gelix (very cheap by the way).


----------



## Yetyhunter

Well after extended testing I found out that only the fans connected on SysFan1 can be controlled in the BIOS. And so I connected 3 fans together on that header and 5 fans on the CPU header now everything is nice and quiet on idle and speeds up when temperature increases. All the other headers are useless almost. You could connect a pump or low RPM fans.


----------



## deepor

The manual mentions what the different system fan headers can do.

There's tables that describe what's put onto the four pins of the headers. In one of the rows of those tables, you will see "Speed Control" mentioned. If that "Speed Control" is in the row for pin number two, then that system fan header changes voltage. If it's in the row for pin number four, then that system fan header is a PWM fan header. There might also be a system fan header that can't do any voltage or PWM control. That one will just run any fan at 100%.


----------



## Vario

My board is Z77X UD3H.
I experienced a lot of coil whine today while running a game installer. I disconnected fans from my fan controller to isolate it but it didn't appear to be a fan. Every fan in the PC is on the controller including VGA fans. Wasn't coming from VGA either.
I checked HW monitor and it got up to 70*C on the CPU and 1.248 volt, not super hot compared to prime 95 but still full load.

Moved my hands up to the VRM area and it was very hot. I could put my hand on the heat sink and not burn but it was the hottest I've ever felt it. Once this installer finished the coil whine stopped, the heat went away, and I shut down. The sound came from this area. I moved one of my fans to blow a bit more on the VRM area and things are working fine once more.

I've never had coil whine from this board before. Has anyone else had this? I was going to move my rig to a new case at some point and I have a spare power supply to try.


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## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> My board is Z77X UD3H.
> I experienced a lot of coil whine today while running a game installer. I disconnected fans from my fan controller to isolate it but it didn't appear to be a fan. Every fan in the PC is on the controller including VGA fans. Wasn't coming from VGA either.
> I checked HW monitor and it got up to 70*C on the CPU and 1.248 volt, not super hot compared to prime 95 but still full load.
> 
> Moved my hands up to the VRM area and it was very hot. I could put my hand on the heat sink and not burn but it was the hottest I've ever felt it. Once this installer finished the coil whine stopped, the heat went away, and I shut down. The sound came from this area. I moved one of my fans to blow a bit more on the VRM area and things are working fine once more.
> 
> I've never had coil whine from this board before. Has anyone else had this? I was going to move my rig to a new case at some point and I have a spare power supply to try.


Are you sure that the coil whine is not from the gpu ? Try the gpu in another pc if you can.

Edit: Also try the spare psu. Its a first time i hear about coil whine that comes from a mobo.


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## Vario

It was the motherboard VRM and this game installer some how cooked my VRM. Just in the installer it was running 75*C. The Blue VRM heatsink was blazing hot. I just played some Grid 2 and it barely cracked 50*C while playing. I've never had the VRM get this hot before even running Intel Burn Test or Prime 95. In fact the game installer got the CPU hotter than prime 95 ever gets this machine with the settings I was using. Its the strangest thing but now my USB ports don't work properly. Definitely Not the VGA. Firstly: Coil whine in 2D Windows Desktop? Second: Clearly coming from top left CPU socket area. Not the VGA. Don't install Galactic Junk League I guess. Fried my PC. Galactic Junked PC. I have never had coil whine from this particular PC before.

Now my USB ports keep turning on and off, the two top left ports by the PS/2 port.

I reset to optimized defaults and I am going to try running some stability tests and see if the USB turns on and off at the same time, whether the system hangs, or how hot the VRM heatsink gets etc. Right now running just 50*C flat out on P95 Blend and the heatsink feels cool to the touch.

I wonder if there's a power virus in this installer.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> It was the motherboard VRM and this game installer some how cooked my VRM. Just in the installer it was running 75*C. The Blue VRM heatsink was blazing hot. I just played some Grid 2 and it barely cracked 50*C while playing. I've never had the VRM get this hot before even running Intel Burn Test or Prime 95. In fact the game installer got the CPU hotter than prime 95 ever gets this machine with the settings I was using. Its the strangest thing but now my USB ports don't work properly. Definitely Not the VGA. Firstly: Coil whine in 2D Windows Desktop? Second: Clearly coming from top left CPU socket area. Not the VGA. Don't install Galactic Junk League I guess. Fried my PC. Galactic Junked PC. I have never had coil whine from this particular PC before.
> 
> Now my USB ports keep turning on and off, the two top left ports by the PS/2 port.
> 
> I reset to optimized defaults and I am going to try running some stability tests and see if the USB turns on and off at the same time, whether the system hangs, or how hot the VRM heatsink gets etc. Right now running just 50*C flat out on P95 Blend and the heatsink feels cool to the touch.
> 
> I wonder if there's a power virus in this installer.


Ok run the tests and report back.

Damn power virus in motherboard ? I heard before about mine viruses using GPU power but this....


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## barkeater

sixor,

sorry for the late response but I was having problems with this behavior last year and I disable wake on lan, and any associated "wake on..." crap and it has since fixed it. I'm not saying it's not your case fan though. Guess you need to trouble shoot that separately.


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## rover

Hi guys,
I have a problem with my Z77-D3h. When I insert new RX 480 video card, no video signal from both Intel and RX480 outputs, I can't even enter BIOS. No beeps, just running fans. BIOS is F18g. When this card is out, Intel output works properly. Did anybody have this issue and solved it? Thanks.


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## deepor

With the default settings in the BIOS, the board will shut down the Intel graphics if it detects a graphics card. Perhaps the board detects the graphics card and disables the Intel GPU, and then at the same time the graphics card does not want to boot up for some reason so everything freezes.

I'd double check if you did everything right about installing the graphics card, like maybe you forgot connecting the 6-pin power cable to the card? Is it pushed fully into the slot?

Can you try the card in another PC to see if the card is fine?

Something might be wrong with the normal graphics card slot of the board. You could try the second one to see if maybe just the first one has an issue.

There's a setting somewhere in the BIOS where you can limit the graphics card slot to PCI-E 2.0 speeds instead of default 3.0 speeds that the board and CPU can do. I think it was called something like "PEG Gen2" and "PEG Gen3". You could try to see if that makes a difference.


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## rover

Thanks for the answer. This card has only one 8-pin power connector (which is strange, but I didn't find second 6-pin connector as on older R9 cards) and it is connected. I tried this card on another Z77-D3H board and the picture is the same. Slot is fine because R9 380X card is working in it. There is no setting in the BIOS regarding PCIE generation. Looks to me like incompatibility between board and RX480 but it's hard to believe because the mobo is just 2 years old. Any other thoughts?


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## deepor

Perhaps the graphics card is simply broken?


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## CravinR1

Every manufacturer has some doa. If No available mb will boot the 480 then RMA.


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## Lagoonx

Hello guys,

I have a big problem with my Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H (rev 1).

To be more specific when I upgraded my system to Windows 10 64 Bit it really started.
The USB 3.0 controller /driver cannot handle my USB 2.0 devices properly (in my case external HDDs).
I'll get various error codes like "device could not be started", "unkown USB device" and so on.

My USB 2.0 port at the front is working fine by the way.

But my VIA and Intel USB 3.0 ports aren't.

I've googled a bit and found that there should be newer (modified) drivers for the Intel USB ports, the ones from VIA and my Intel chipset,
But I cannot exactly find them.

Is there anyone who can help me with this?


Attached is a screenshot from my USB-Controller, it's in German but better than nothing.


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## fraamus

Not intended to be a sales spiel but I have used Drivermax Pro for years and I cannot tell you how many bridge, hub, and motherboard updates it has done. Well over 50. I do have the higher revision board. It is free to do 4 updates at a time but at the least it is very accurate at finding what drivers are outdated. I have multiple USB Hubs and drives mainly USB 3.0 and they all work just fine. Make sure legacy devices are enabled in BIOS as well. Win 10 doesn't play well with older devices but except for Windows updates, mine works fine.


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## kaos420

i had same issues! took me days my friend so i will save you. you kinda helped me i was going nuts with controllers dropping devices stopping. your modded driver wording set me on a google frenzy. guess what i found what we both seek. http://www.win-raid.com/t834f25-USB-Drivers-original-and-modded.html

side note for the intel what we both have. in case this site i found it on disappears or links go dead. i have downloaded all 32 and 64 drivers normal and modded in that thread and backed up on my nas server. so anyone needs pm me if the above goes dead. but...... my stuff all works now. i was having my touch screen die and other stuff controlled by that controller. side note doing the install all went dead keyboard wise and mouse as said. but i had a extra usb mouse i used in a front usb port on my case. that worked and i was able to install all the others. rebooted all works.as well as my VIA controllers too. installed those as well ...

fyi my board is Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H (rev 1.1).


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## kaos420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fraamus*
> 
> Not intended to be a sales spiel but I have used Drivermax Pro for years and I cannot tell you how many bridge, hub, and motherboard updates it has done. Well over 50. I do have the higher revision board. It is free to do 4 updates at a time but at the least it is very accurate at finding what drivers are outdated. I have multiple USB Hubs and drives mainly USB 3.0 and they all work just fine. Make sure legacy devices are enabled in BIOS as well. Win 10 doesn't play well with older devices but except for Windows updates, mine works fine.


not to discredit driver max. i am a pro user for yrs. but in the case above your.....like mine was driver max is no help at all.


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## Gregar Forte

Guys, my z77x-d3h would not boot if battery is inserted into the battery slot on mobo. it would behave like short if battery is inserted. Any idea what the problem would be? Any reply would be appreciated. thanks


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## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregar Forte*
> 
> Guys, my z77x-d3h would not boot if battery is inserted into the battery slot on mobo. it would behave like short if battery is inserted. Any idea what the problem would be? Any reply would be appreciated. thanks


Have you tried using a different battery?


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## Gregar Forte

I have tried with four batteries, three brand new and one from my brothers pc. The pc works fine but the date is resetted everytime pc is powered down. maybe ill just accept it. better than nothing. I already breadbord, dusting the whole pc etc.


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## Gregar Forte

its showing its age. but earlier i tried with a dead one from old mobo, the pc would boot but the bios would reset itself, showing that no power in the battery. maybe ill try different brand. i already tried with sony and new sun. the old battery was swiss iirc


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## asus3571

f16h beta fixes everything


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## Gregar Forte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> f16h beta fixes everything


Seriously? Where i can get the beta one? TQ


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## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregar Forte*
> 
> Seriously? Where i can get the beta one? TQ


should be listed on the gigabyte website under BIOS. Not too familiar with the D3 but my UD3H has 2 BIOS on it, have you tried switching to the other one if your board has it and see if it keeps the date? might just be a bad flash chip the CMOS is stored on.

*Edit*

provided the GA-Z77X-D3H is your board you can download the UEFI BIOS here. http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4144#bios


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## sixor

hi guys

well, i have the worst z77x mobo ever created, stupid z77x ud3h, it gave issues since day 1, and even today still does

right now big issues

1)i have always suffered from random corrupt bios for no reason at all, well annoying, but not a big problem, i just restored the bios from the backup bios, or flashed, then config everything again. right now my main bios got corrupted but in a boot loop, no way to enter bios, pc try to boot 3 times then at the 4th one it goes to bios but again restarts, no way to do anything else, i have to use bios number 2 by switch, that bios i can update it or downgrade, but no way to recover the other one???????????? i think there was a way, like alt f10 or something

2)that aside, since 2012 i have used the pc with a ssd raid0 with no issues never, off course until just now, it says
RAID VOLUMES: FAILED

wow

is there something i can do or am i dead?,

every day i hate more and more this stupid mobo


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## asus3571

i can almost predict its a raid problem slthough the ud3h disnt as robust as the ud5h what are your system spects including case psu


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## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> i can almost predict its a raid problem slthough the ud3h disnt as robust as the ud5h what are your system spects including case psu


3570k 4.4ghz 1.28 vcore
8gb
gigabyte z77x ud3h 1.0 with f20e bios mod, f18 stock, etc, it does not matter, they all suck
amd 270x
corsair vx550w
2x ssd crucial m4 64gb
2x 3tb wd green

i never had any issues with raid0, never, in 2016 i killed the raid for some months just to test things, but this 2017 i went raid again

but after a no reason bios corrupt, the raid went to hell

I GUESS MY DATA IS DEAD

stupid mobo , i dont understand why it corrupt bios like crazy, like 1 o 2 times per month for no reason at all

right now, my bios number 1 is corrup in boot loop, no way to enter bios settings, i dont know how to recover it, my bios 2 is fine


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## sixor

sorry por double post but i need to write this in case someone needs it someday

as i said, my bios was autocorrupted by itself and in the process my ssd raid 0 was lost (2 crucials m4 ssd 64gb), i almost cried, after some google found this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/245428-32-recover-raid-failure

this guy said he recover his raid0, and i was like , wattttttttttttt, no way, but yes, it is possible

i did not wanted to delete my array and create a new one because the intel app says it will destroy all data, which is a lie, so just as that guy, i deleted my array not 1 but 2 times, stupid as i am, when i created the new array i used a new name lol, so i had to destroy it and create it again with the default name VOLUME0

then just booted win10 dvd (i use a wd external drive with the iso from w10), select repair stuff blablabla, and repair mbr gpt boot something, and that was all, i was able to explore my raid0 from the w10 boot cd file explorer and copy the data to another drive

maybe i could have repaired my entire w10 intall, but, meh, i prefer to format fresh from start, i am happy with my data saved

so yes

YOU CAN SAVE DATA FROM A FAILED RAID0 ARRAY

but off course, i will learn from this and backup more, still, i have raid0 since 2012 when ivy bridge came out, and this was my first issue, and it was caused by my hell mobo z77x ud3h worst mobo ever edition, right now i am using the latest f20e bios modd and i used ubu uefi updater to update some modules, lets see what happens


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## asus3571

im tellin yaman its a drive the m4 series were junk ive owned a couple crucial send me the same email stating it is possible to bring the m4 back to life with their proccedure gigabyte has by far the best bios around it very well could be a bad cmos battery


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## sixor

oh great another problem on my z77x ud3h (it has 2 bios)

my bios1 i cannot boot, i do not how to recover it, it boot loops forever

i was using bios2, then i wanted to try ram overclock, corsair vengeance blue 1600mhz, i went and put 1800mhz, normal performance and 1.65v for ram, system booted but windows did not boot in 2 times, so i went to bios to restore settings and nothing, black screen, infinite boot loop just like bios number 1, damn

yes, i hit the clear cmos on the mobo, cut the power, switched bios, press supr like crazy, nothing happens, just boot loops on both bios,

great gigabyte, just great, love your mobos


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## sixor

please guys, all the help you can

the mobo does several things like this:

1)boot loop, cpu fan starts but goes off right away, pc reboots (code 32)
2)several beeps like 15 sometimes
3)cpu fan starts, both bios leds start blinking, no error code

yes, changed slots for the ram, removed, 1 stick, changed with another ram stick, same results :/


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## Yetyhunter

After all these years I still haven't fixed my random boot loop issue with this 2500k when OC'ed. It happens completely random after some cold boots, everything powers on but it doesn't post. I have to cut the power and boot again, sometimes it happens after the second try again. I know I'm a couple of years late but I was curious about some new suggestions I could try. Thank you.


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## sixor

here are some of my boot loops

i give up, after days reading, trying to short pins 1 -6, powering off the psu, removing battery, changing ram slots, etc

i will send the mobo to a friend, maybe he can re program the bios into the bios chip, else i need a new mobo

my both dual bios chips got corrupted, no other explanation

thanks a lot gigabyte for never fixing z77x problems, they just did not care to update any more the bios

sudden deaths, boot loops, usb issues, fast boot problems, corrupted bios, clear cmos when the mobo wanted, and this is a high end mobo lol


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## asus3571

clear cmos using button on motherboard depending on ram bios sets ram voltage to 1.5v per the 2500k change to proper ram voltage eg 1.65 turn off spread spectrum especially if overclocking


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## kater

Hey sixor - try this solution. It worked for me just fine. I'm not sure if this will work if BOTH of your bios chips are corrupted, tho. I think in my case only one chip got bad, but fortunately the second one worked.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1447529/boot-loop-on-gigabyte-ga-z77-d3h-rev-1-1/10


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## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> After all these years I still haven't fixed my random boot loop issue with this 2500k when OC'ed. It happens completely random after some cold boots, everything powers on but it doesn't post. I have to cut the power and boot again, sometimes it happens after the second try again. I know I'm a couple of years late but I was curious about some new suggestions I could try. Thank you.


I fought with it for 3 years, lost it. I think there is no work around from the boot loops.
Changed every god damn setting, changed my bios, RAMs, CPU, Storage, PSU, Casing and lol it did not resolve.


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## Yetyhunter

At this point it's not even worth it anymore. I will probably upgrade to something else rather than fix this.


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## sixor

lol gigabyte could not even fix it, they stopped bios development

z77x was just a cursed chip


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## asus3571

the new beta bios f16q is the best bios ive ever used it was done right both ud3h and 5h use the software put pc to stock works great


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## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> the new beta bios f16q is the best bios ive ever used it was done right both ud3h and 5h use the software put pc to stock works great


None of the bios suffer from boot loops when on stock clocks, this is an issue with overclocks.


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## asus3571

im confused are you saying your pc boot loops when overclocked? but does not when stock?


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## redfaction95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> im confused are you saying your pc boot loops when overclocked? but does not when stock?


yes, even on a slight change in clocks. Like from 3.7 to 3.8, or even using rams above 1333mhz.


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## asus3571

reset cmose then turn off spread spectrum ram will auto defaulf to 1.5 your ram is probably 1.65 other wize try turning off spread spectrum nothing supports it and it can and will **** up your overclock


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## uncola

Guys anyone remember the name of the gigabyte utility to change things like the boot mode from fast to turbo etc? I can't remember how to get into my bios haha. Is it easytune? I have to chagne boot mode from turbo to fast so I can hit f1 to get into bios but I don't remember which utility does it.. when I installed win 10 I didn't install any of the gigabyte utilities


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## uncola

Don't install app center in win 20. Gdrv.sys boot loop, USB keyboard didn't work so couldn't get to safe mode to uninstall it. Had to reset windows


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## sixor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncola*
> 
> Guys anyone remember the name of the gigabyte utility to change things like the boot mode from fast to turbo etc? I can't remember how to get into my bios haha. Is it easytune? I have to chagne boot mode from turbo to fast so I can hit f1 to get into bios but I don't remember which utility does it.. when I installed win 10 I didn't install any of the gigabyte utilities


lol

i believe you enter bios by pressing ESC key like crazy + supr

or do a clear cmos


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## boomersooner918

Hey all, I have a question. I just got this mobo, replaced my asrock z77 extreme4 (could only run single channel memory when i bought it) and just started to rebuild my OC. On the asrock i was running 4.8ghz with offset of +0.025 and would max out about 88°C in p95 blend ran for about an hour. Once i swapped this board in, I started at 4.6ghz and a zero offeset, all seems stable but my temps are way higher. 4.6 on the asrock would barely touch 80, this gigabyte hit 89°C just 10 minutes into testing so i shut it down and went back to searching. For the life of me, the only thing i can think of that could be throwing temps way higher is the iGPU getting 1.0v when i am almost certain it was at .450 or .650 on the asrock. Is anyone aware of where to lower that at, or if there are other voltages (besides vcore, i got that) that may be throwing much higher temps out? The other voltages match or are almost the same as I was running with the asrock, including vtt, imc, and ddr voltage. I am a huge fan of gigabyte, my voltages are much more stable, but these temps are killing me


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## 564283

Has anyone tested F16j beta bios? What are the changes?


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## deNordic

Can someone tell me what is that orange light?


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## 8bitG33k

deNordic said:


> Can someone tell me what is that orange light?


Which version board do you have?

UD5H, UD3H, D3H,...?


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## deNordic

8bitG33k said:


> Which version board do you have?
> 
> UD5H, UD3H, D3H,...?


UD5H v1.0

I've read that it's lit when the main bios is selected. Could you confirm please? I hope it's not due to a malfunction.


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## sixor

oh great, the neverending hell of z77x again

z77x ud3h
3570k
16gb
3 x wd green 3tb
2 x ssd

my pc was sort of fine, then i had to move and removed my pc apart, 9 months later i setup the pc again, now the bios uefi mobo does not detect any of the 5 sata drives

YES
the disk are fine, i have a usb case for hdd and they are fine
yes, clear cmos, updated bios, f8, f20e, f20 mod
yes, bios defaults, 
yes, change cables, tried another power adapters, , 
yes removed ram, gpu, all other drives, 

i swear gigabyte never again, not even for free


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## ZealotKi11er

sixor said:


> oh great, the neverending hell of z77x again
> 
> z77x ud3h
> 3570k
> 16gb
> 3 x wd green 3tb
> 2 x ssd
> 
> my pc was sort of fine, then i had to move and removed my pc apart, 9 months later i setup the pc again, now the bios uefi mobo does not detect any of the 5 sata drives
> 
> YES
> the disk are fine, i have a usb case for hdd and they are fine
> yes, clear cmos, updated bios, f8, f20e, f20 mod
> yes, bios defaults,
> yes, change cables, tried another power adapters, ,
> yes removed ram, gpu, all other drives,
> 
> i swear gigabyte never again, not even for free


My UD5H good since day one. Best MB ever.


----------



## valvehead

ZealotKi11er said:


> My UD5H good since day one. Best MB ever.


 Same here. My UD5H has been running 24/7 home server duty since April 2012. It's been through many GPU and HDD swaps. It also has handled several simultaneous tasks such as [email protected], BOINC, RAID6 (mdadm), and heavily modded Minecraft servers. It did briefly have a boot loop issue, but that was resolved by setting RAM timings and voltage manually. I do plan to upgrade the server eventually, but it's doing well for now.


I also have a P67 UD7 and an X99 Gaming G1. The P67 is limited by the weird hybrid UEFI/BIOS. I don't think I've ever successfully booted it from USB, so all OS install or recovery operations required burning a CD or DVD. The X99 has some strange USB issue with one of my keyboards requiring me to unplug/replug it after rebooting. That keyboard has no issues on any other PC.


Gigabyte may not be the best or most reliable out there, but there's no guaranty that a board from any other manufacturer will be free from bugs either.


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## sixor

yes but my z77x ud3h has been annoying since day 1, too many bugs and gigabyte did not even care to release more bios, they just went with newer boards

sudden death issues
boot loops
auto clear cmos
corrupted bios by itself
tons of usb problems
weird and annoying component location for an oc gamer mobo
etc

and now, 6 dead sata ports


----------

