# [Build Log] - The Big Budget Boomer Box (aka, the "BBBB")



## cpachris

*Project Name: Big Budget Boomer Box*

*Project Name Reasoning:*
Because I'm a touch lazy, I absolutely refuse to type out "Big Budget Boomer Box" very often. So, henceforth, whenever you see "BBBB", you'll smile and remember how many keystrokes I saved. How about I explain the name first. "*Big Budget*"....is self explanatory, ...but here's how I ended up there. Contractual issue with my previous employer left me with enough funds to take some time off work and still have some fun money. I'm not working at all this summer, so I've got plenty of time. I'm at the perfect point in my life right now to put together my dream build. So...I'm going to throw some money at it and not waste this opportunity. This will be fun. "*Boomer*"...is a reference to my alma mater, the University of Oklahoma. I'm Sooner born and Sooner bred, and when I die I'm Sooner dead! Rah Oklahoma! The OU color is crimson, and you'll see that color theme throughout the build.

*Goals for Build:*
This machine will be used primarily for surfing OCN. Er....ah....maybe some photo/video editing also, as well as storage of all my photo/video footage. Gaming? Yeah, maybe a little...but that's not my primary thing. Quiet. It needs to be quiet, because it's a 24/7 computer. But...I do plan on a fairly heavy overclock, so the cooling has to be first rate. I don't like fan noise, so all fans will be on a controller and spinning at very low RPM for everyday use. Since this negatively impacts radiator performance, my initial plan is to offset this by adding more radiators! The CaseLabs TH10 case I've selected will definitely hold plenty, so I'm planning on between 4 and 6 large radiators, with about 40 fans spinning at very low RPM. Initial plans also include large raid array with SSD's, which will be the priciest part of the build. I'm also going to try some interesting things with this build (acrylic, copper accents, custom dyeing, LED lighting, etc.), so my hope is you will be entertained.

*Updates:*
There is nothing worse than a dead and unfinished build thread. We've all felt the abandonment and depression this causes at some point in our OCN lives. So first and foremost, I promise to finish. I also promise frequent updates, with lots of pictures. Lets be honest with each other....I'm already starting to bore you with all of this typing....right? Pictures are what makes us love the build threads, and I promise lots of them. Plus...I've got a nice camera, so there won't be any blurry phone pics. So click "subscribe" now. Go on. Do it before you forget. Yes...now. This opening post will be edited as the build progresses with an Index and links to any significant progress updates. I'll also update the Hardware Status parts list shown below, as I order and acquire the parts, and/or change my mind on what to get.

*Build Log Index with Links:*

_*Aug 2012 Edit:* For those of you joining this thread late in the game....its grown pretty lengthy. I've tried hard to keep the index below updated with any of the significant picture updates, in case you want to just hit the highlights. But...you'll be missing out on all the witty OCN banter if you only look at the pictures!_


CaseLabs TH10 Arrives!
CaseLabs TH10 Case Pictures
CaseLabs Accessories Pictures
Fun With Fans - Preview
Hardware Labs Radiators - Before
OU Propaganda!!!
Tearing up the PSU's
KoolRoom Package Opening
Radiator Sandblasting and Powder Coating - Test
Ghetto Radiator Flushing
Fan Color Combination Voting
Ghetto PSU 9-Volt Battery and Fan Video
More sandblasting and powdercoating pictures
That's a lot of fans!
Radiator Won't Fit
Fan Teardown
Fan Taping
Fan Painting
Fan Reassembly - Part 1
Fan Reassembly - Part 2
Fan Reassembly - Part 3
Selecting Fittings and Tubing - Round 1
Selecting Fittings and Tubing - Round 2
Selecting Fittings and Tubing - Round 3
Custom Vinyl Stickers for Fans
Fan Reassembly - Part 4
Finished Fan Pictures
Fan Domino Video
The Finished Fan Family Pictures
Card Reader Teardown
Pump Top and Mod Kit Installation Pictures and Video
Reservoir Almost Shipped Pictures
Reservoirs Received
PowerAdjust 2 Ultra Pictures
AMS Radiator Pictures
Flow Sensor and Temperature Sensor Pictures
Asrock Extreme11 Pictures
Corsair Dominator GT 64GB Pictures
EVGA Signature GTX 690 Pictures
AMS Radiators Get Powdercoated
Modified 480 Radiator Mounts to Create Room for 280 Radiator
Card Reader Powder Coating, Sleeving and Reassembly
Flow meter and Blu-ray - Powdercoated!
3960X Pictures!
Aquaero 5 with Powdercoat and Waterblock
One top, Two tops, Three tops....Oh My!
Flexbay Radiator Mount for AMS 360 Rads
Lamptron FC8 Finished Pictures
XL Window vs XXL Window for TH10
Custom Bottom Plate for CaseLabs Pedestal
Phantek CPU Cooler - Temporary While Waiting on Waterloop to be Finished
What do 16 Vertex 4's look like?
Prototype for PowerAdjust2 mount
The World's Most Beautiful PSU's
Flowmeter Choices - White and Copper
Socket Head Screws and Copper Plating
Areca 1882ix-16 PCI-e 3.0 Raid Card!
Dye batch for making crimson MDPC-X!
Custom SATA Power Cable #1
Sleeving My First 8-pin Cable
More 8-pin Cable Sleeving
Bitspower White Fittings!
Bitspower - OU!!!
How to Make Custom Length SATA Data Cables
Custom SATA Power Cable #2
Drilled My First Holes in the Case - PA2 Mounting Bracket
Another MDPC-X Package
Another FrozenCPU package
Aquaero 5 XT and LT.....Installed!
Reservoir Placement
SATA data cable sleeving
First SAS>SATA Breakout Cable Sleeved
Second SAS>SATA Breakout Cable Sleeved
Making and sleeving the Aquabus connectors
PA2 Custom Bracket - Almost Done
Sneak Peek of Nate's Progress on Custom AE11 Block!
Some More Asrock Extreme11 Motherboard Shots
Creating a Power Harness for my Radiator Fans
Dual Aquaero Power Cable Splitter
More mail.......
Creating a USB splitter and extension for the dual Aquaero's
Installing the USB 3.0 retro fit kit in the TH10
PA2 mounting bracket and reservoir placement
Bad 24 pin.....bad!
Sleeving a USB 3.0 double cable
Package from Mips!
Front panel audio connections
Front panel power and reset button cabling
Second Power Adjust 2 power harness
Painting the baby fans
Painting the 140mm fans
Finished 140mm fans and Baby fans
The fan family!
Pedestal cutting and fan installation
Custom pedestal floor with fans
Another fan power harness.....done!
Pedestal power pass-through connections
Pedestal fan wiring - Done!
Baby fan power harness
Plumbing the pedestal
Adding a fill port
Pedestal pass-through connections and modularity
Pedestal Studio Shots!
More drilling and different style 90 degree fittings
Mounting the individual D5 pumps
CaseLabs Best Build Contest Pictures
All
The
Other
Stuff
In
The
Middle
Final Pics of BBBB v1.0
Stock Benchmarks of BBBB v1.0
Overclocked Benchmarks of BBBB v1.0
BBBB Version 2.0?

*Hardware List and Status:*
Here is the legend. Green means I've already got it. Orange means its been ordered (yellow text isn't real legible). Red means I'm still deciding/researching the item, or waiting because I don't yet need the part. I'll update this Hardware Status in the OP as things change:

*Case*

CaseLabs TH10 with Pedestal and extended tops
*Main Guts*


*CPU*: Intel Core i7-3960X
*Motherboard*: Asrock Extreme 11
*GPU*: 2x EVGA GTX 690's
*Memory*: 64 gb, Corsair Dominator GT 1866
*PSU*: 2x Corsair AX850. Probably could get by on one big PSU, but this setup will allow me some additional overhead, and as an added benefit, it should keep the PSU fans spinning at a minimum
.

*Storage*


*Raid Controller*: ARECA ARC 1882IX16 PCI-e 3.0.
*OS Drive*: 2x 256 gb SSD Vertex 4 in Raid 0
*Raid 5 Array (for storage)*: 10x 512 gb SSD Vertex 4
*Raid 0 Array (scratch drives, render drive)*: 4x 256 gb SSD Vertex 4 Series

*Cooling*


*Radiators*: 4x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR-1 480 Radiators
*Radiators*: 1x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR-1 280 Radiators
*More Radiators*: 2x AquaComputer AMS 360 Copper Fins
*Pumps*: 4x D5 variant (Swiftech MCP655's)
*Pump Top*: Bitspower Dual D5 Pumptop
*Pump Top*: 2x Bitspower Pumptop V2
*Pump Decoration*: 4x Bitspower D5 Modkit
*Reservoir*: Some Custom Work from FrozenQ
*Radiator Fans*: 47x Noiseblocker M12-S2's
*Case Fans*: 4x Noiseblocker 40mm Black Silent
*Case Fans*: 4x Noiseblocker 140mm Black Silent
*CPU Waterblock*: Mips Iceforce Custom Copper Plated
*GPU Waterblocks*: 2x AquaCompuer Aquagrafx 690's
*Motherboard Waterblocks*: Both the Mips AE11 block and the Nateman_doo custom AE11 block. Will test both and winner stays!
*RAM Waterblocks*: 2x Mips 4 Dimm Block
*TIM*: Indigo Extreme. Kind of scared to try the "reflow", but it will be an adventure
*Tubing*: I'll be using a combination of white, clear and custom dyed crimson.
*Fittings*: Bitspower White!

*Monitoring and Control*


AquaComputer Aquaero 5 XT
AquaComputer Aquaero 5 LT
12x AquaComputer Power Adjust USB Ultra
3x AquaComputer Flow Sensor Block
Lamptron FC8 for Case Lighting
6x Water Temperature Sensors: AquaComputer
5x Air Temperature Sensors: AquaComputer

*Misc*


*Monitor*: Dell 27 inch IPS
*Soundcard*: TBD
*Sleeving*: MDPC-X; white, and a custom dyed crimson
*Speakers*: Creative GigaWorks T40 Series II 32 watts RMS 2.0 Speakers
*Blu-Ray/DVD Reader/Writer*: LiteOn 12x
*GPU Backplates*: TBD - Exploring some custom options

*
Inspiration and Resources*

The entire OCN community. Seriously.
Martin's Liquid Labs -- I've read every review he has done over the past several years. Truly some great information and a valuable resource.
Skinnee Labs -- More great testing and reviews.
OCN Member P3nnywise: "Red and Black" Build Log -- This one was awesome!
OCN Member theseekeroffun: "Complete Madness" Build Log - Finish it Rocky!
CaseLabs Cases

Hope that adequately describes what I have in store for this summer. I've lurked in OCN for years, but joined earlier this year because of my plan for this summer build. This is going to be awesome, I promise! Subscribe now and join me for a fun summer build log!


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## cpachris

CaseLabs has arrived! About 2 hours after I started this thread, the doorbell rings, and the FedEx guy is standing there staring menacingly at me. Beside him is an extremely large box, and he says to me, "what the hell did you have delivered?" I smile, sign his little pad, and send him on his way. I knew it would arrive at some point today, but this is early enough where I'll be able to play with it a little bit! Here are a couple of the obligatory box photos:



And here are the boxes beside a chair to give you some perspective on how big these boxes are:



Now lets open the box a little bit.....



Wait...what is that...what is that color?.....is that red? is that purple? or is that.....



CRIMSON! Or to be more precise....the University of Oklahoma crimson. Go Sooners! Rah Oklahoma! Now lets get this thing out in the sun for some photos to show off the custom color powder coat finish!









Based on all of the existing CaseLabs build threads, I was expecting fantastic packaging, and I was not disappointed. And the case is nothing short of amazing. Even the tiniest little details, like countersunk screws to assemble the pedestal, make the box reek of quality. I'll pull the case upstairs for some studio lighitng pictures tonight, and I'll show off more of the accessories that I got. But I wanted to get some pics quickly while the sun was out because it is beautiful here today. Heading to the pool for an hour, and then a quick workout, before I do some more unboxing and pictures tonight.

I've updated the thread index in the OP and the hardware status.


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## nathanak21

Get a 3930k over the 3960x. Save some money


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## succesfulvoid

This is an extreme build, deserving the horribly priced 3960X! But yeah, I would go for a 3930K and get moar SSD's instead, but its your call. This is going to be one epic build, I love watching these get built.


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## 3930K

Subbed.


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## stren

subbed +1 on 3930K over 3960X, however I'm glad you're hoping for something better to come out first (so am I - real unlocked 8 core anyone?)

Also 4x680's for someone who doesn't really game? 2 should be enough to max out a U2711. If you're going all out though consider going with 3 of the korean 2560x1440 IPS monitors that can push 120Hz (120hz.net), then at least 4 680's are justified









Nice choice on the areca card

if you're going all out then get some nicer memory - corsair are going to be releasing that dominator platinum which will have some serious epeen.

PSU- check out johnnyguru's review of the lepa 1600W gold. Should take care of your PSU needs without the mess and fuss of two.


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## Electrocutor

I'm not sure I'm confortable calling that a computer case... it's completely empty, unlit, non-populated, and it already looks like a work of art.


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## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanak21*
> 
> Get a 3930k over the 3960x. Save some money


Thanks for the thoughts nathanak21. If the next intel unlocked processor has not come out within the next few weeks (my timeframe for buying), then I might very well drop down to the 3930k. I've read a lot of really good things about its OC potential, and plus, I probably won't be able to resist getting the newer CPU once its released. So, not really "saving" money.....but wasting less. Almost the same thing.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *succesfulvoid*
> 
> This is an extreme build, deserving the horribly priced 3960X! But yeah, I would go for a 3930K and get moar SSD's instead, but its your call. This is going to be one epic build, I love watching these get built.


Thanks succesfulvoid! More SSD's would always be good. I've enjoyed watching a ton of the CaseLabs build logs, so I'll try and do it justice and entertain you along the way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Subbed.


Thanks 3930K! No question where you stand on the CPU issue, as I gather from your screen name.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> subbed +1 on 3930K over 3960X, however I'm glad you're hoping for something better to come out first (so am I - real unlocked 8 core anyone?)
> Also 4x680's for someone who doesn't really game? 2 should be enough to max out a U2711. If you're going all out though consider going with 3 of the korean 2560x1440 IPS monitors that can push 120Hz (120hz.net), then at least 4 680's are justified
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice choice on the areca card
> if you're going all out then get some nicer memory - corsair are going to be releasing that dominator platinum which will have some serious epeen.
> PSU- check out johnnyguru's review of the lepa 1600W gold. Should take care of your PSU needs without the mess and fuss of two.


Thanks stren! Have enjoyed watching you proselytize the virtues of CaseLabs cases here on OCN. You're probably one of the reasons I ended with this case. You carry the banner well. And as I've dug into it more tonight, I continue to be amazed at the quality and wonderful thoughtful touches that have gone into designing this case. It is far and away better than any case I've owned or seen.

If I could get an 8 core to OC, I wouldn't feel quite as inferior to all you SR-X builders.







I agree that 4 GPU's is a little overkill, but with all the PCI lanes on the Asrock Extreme 11, I can run them all at 16x on PCIe 3.0! That should provide benchmarks like we've never seen before. With the Asrock board, the 3rd and 4th cards don't cause you to drop down from 16x to 8x. All four cards at 16x. I've simply got to take advantage of that....even if I don't game much. Would feel like I was wasting the motherboard if I did anything less. Plus...when I say I don't game much, I mean on the computer. I've logged some hours on my Xbox360. Will be neat to compare the two on the same game. I have considered moving to a 3 monitor setup. Will check out the monitors you mentioned.

I've read good things about the Samsung memory, but I'll definitely check out the Dominator Platinum. Appreciate the heads-up. I've already got the two PSU's, so I'll probably stick with that initially. The Corsair PSU fans simply don't spin at all until they get quite a bit of load. By splitting the load between 2 units, I hope to be able to keep the fans from spinning under all normal conditions. Only have the fans kick on under super heavy loads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'm not sure I'm confortable calling that a computer case... it's completely empty, unlit, non-populated, and it already looks like a work of art.


Thank you Electrocutor. I was expecting something amazing, and CaseLabs didn't disappoint. It is a fantastic case.

For everyone....I welcome a review/critique of the selected components in the opening post. The funnest part of a build is picking out the stuff, and I welcome the combined accumulated knowledge of the OCN community.


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## carmas

subbed. I see a lot of WC goodness in your list. I smell an awesome build here


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## tipo33

Quad SLI, watercooling and dual PSU's?? subbed.


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## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks stren! Have enjoyed watching you proselytize the virtues of CaseLabs cases here on OCN. You're probably one of the reasons I ended with this case. You carry the banner well. And as I've dug into it more tonight, I continue to be amazed at the quality and wonderful thoughtful touches that have gone into designing this case. It is far and away better than any case I've owned or seen.
> If I could get an 8 core to OC, I wouldn't feel quite as inferior to all you SR-X builders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree that 4 GPU's is a little overkill, but with all the PCI lanes on the Asrock Extreme 11, I can run them all at 16x on PCIe 3.0! That should provide benchmarks like we've never seen before. With the Asrock board, the 3rd and 4th cards don't cause you to drop down from 16x to 8x. All four cards at 16x. I've simply got to take advantage of that....even if I don't game much. Would feel like I was wasting the motherboard if I did anything less. Plus...when I say I don't game much, I mean on the computer. I've logged some hours on my Xbox360. Will be neat to compare the two on the same game. I have considered moving to a 3 monitor setup. Will check out the monitors you mentioned.
> I've read good things about the Samsung memory, but I'll definitely check out the Dominator Platinum. Appreciate the heads-up. I've already got the two PSU's, so I'll probably stick with that initially. The Corsair PSU fans simply don't spin at all until they get quite a bit of load. By splitting the load between 2 units, I hope to be able to keep the fans from spinning under all normal conditions. Only have the fans kick on under super heavy loads.


Haha well I'm glad I put you on the right path then







While the samsung ram is a bargain for what it is, there is better ram out there for those who want nothing but the best. Plus it doesn't look that good. I chose this kit for my build: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233230&Tpk=16%20gb%20dominator%20gt which will be at least as good as the better binned samsungs (and is about as fast as you can while keeping 1.5V rated specs). Vega went with these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313243 but of course there is faster memory out there these days. The SB-E chips struggle to get past 2400 on water though so it might be a waste getting more than that (unless you want that platinum epeen).

My only worry with 850W PSU's is that you have to be careful how you hook it up. For such a build with dual PSU's I'd want to use dual 1200W's personally. That way if power is sourced momentarily from one PSU more than the other that you'll have less risk of a problem. I'm sure it'll work because people have done it, it just makes me nervous!

The other thing is that if you have quad SLI you'll need to make sure your water blocks let you fit your raid card in between them. Most waterblocks are not single slot compatible.

One more thing - bin your cpu. Buy from several sources, test the overclocks and keep the best one. This will give you far more performance than "the best" water cooling setup vs an average one.


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## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> subbed. I see a lot of WC goodness in your list. I smell an awesome build here


thanks carmas! it will be fun.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipo33*
> 
> Quad SLI, watercooling and dual PSU's?? subbed.


thanks tipo33! glad you're along for the ride.


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## cpachris

I lugged this beast upstairs into my 'faux' studio, and took some more pictures. Here are some without the pedestal.










More to come!......


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## cpachris

Now here are some of just the pedestal:








More to come!.......


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## cpachris

Here are pics of both together. This case is VERY large:




and it de-skins in seconds. here it is naked, and blushing:


now a few more angles:








Ok.....that's it for the case. Next up....some of the accessories I got with it.


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## Hyperlite

i like the red and white. interesting to see a window on the PSU side. The PSU's will have their fans directly infront of the plexi on that door. Not that it really causes an issue, the corsairs just dont have led's or anything in em









edit: when did caselabs start adding color options? when i bought my TH10 you had the option of black or white.


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## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyperlite*
> 
> i like the red and white. interesting to see a window on the PSU side. The PSU's will have their fans directly infront of the plexi on that door. Not that it really causes an issue, the corsairs just dont have led's or anything in em
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: when did caselabs start adding color options? when i bought my TH10 you had the option of black or white.


I don't think it's official yet. I'd say it's in beta lol


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## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> I don't think it's official yet. I'd say it's in beta lol


Well, the next time you talk to Jim, tell him it's an awesome idea. Small extra fee for custom paint colors.

That plus the inclusion of a modular mid-tower and he would have to have to hire a small army to keep up with sales.


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## cpachris

Here are some pictures of the accessories I've started with from CaseLabs.

First up are the hard drive cages. There are HDD cages for both the motherboard side of the case, and the PSU side of the case, available from CaseLabs. The 4 below that I got are for the PSU side, where I've elected to keep all of mine:



This next shot is a close up of the cage. The cages attach to the case by sliding these rubber grommet covered holes onto pins sticking out of the case. This should eliminate any vibration coming from the harddrives from being transmitted to the case. The attention to detail in the production of this case is amazing.



And in this shot, you can see the 4 HDD cages all lined up on the PSU side of the case. Each cage holds 4 drives, so these 4 would hold 16 drives total!



But wait...there's more! (in my best late night infomercial voice) If you act now, you can DOUBLE the capacity of your HDD cages by using these specially designed 2.5 inch SSD adapters. Each one of the adapters holds 2 SSD's, and takes up one slot in the HDD cage. So each HDD cage will effectively hold 8 SSD's with these attachments. I ordered 8 of the SSD attachments, so two of my HDD cages will hold 16 SSD's. Nice.



Next up are the accessory mount bars. The 4 bars on the right side of the picture below can attach to the frame of the case in either a horizontal or vertical position. Then you can add various attachments to these bars with simple thumb screws. Its a beautifully thought out setup. You can see in the picture below I've started with some plate attachments and some fan mounts. Each of these are available in a normal straight format, or an offset format also. The plate attachments also come in larger sizes.



Here are some pictures with a horizontal accessory mount bar inside the case, and the two plate mounts attached so you can get an idea how they work. The horizontal mount bar can slide up or down the case and attach where ever you want it. As you will also see on the left side of the picture, I've attached the fan mounts directly to the frame of the case. Another beautiful detail CaseLabs has done with these cases:



Here's a closer pic of the plates. You could make a false floor out of these plates along the bottom of your case, to hide some of the ugly wiring parts. Or you could create a second level floor in your build for pumps or other items. The only limit is your imagination with these cases!



Here is a shot of the vertical accessory mount bar, and the two fan mounts. I'm imagining the air coolers out there creating a few columns of fans where ever they want to in their case, to really get the air moving. Very cool idea.



This picture is of the different bay area mounts. In addition to those below, you can see the 5.25 to 3.5 converter in the picture above this at the very top of the case. In the picture below, from left to right, we have:

1) short device mounts
2) normal device mounts
3) anti-vibration mounts (see the rubber grommets/screws)
4) adjustable device mounts (notice the play in the screw holes....allows for non-standard devices)
5) double bay normal mounts
6) double bay short mounts

I got a lot of them.



In the picture below you can see the tubing management plates, which assist with passing wires/tubing from the lower compartment to the main compartment:



Here is a picture of two of them installed in the bottom of my main compartment:



Now, I can already hear a lot of you poo-poo'ing the idea of these tubing management covers. You'll say that "with my Dremel I could do that quickly for free". Yes. Yes you could. I would agree that it is easy to cut a hole. But....you'd have to agree that it is pretty hard to "un-cut" that same hole. By simply swapping out these plates, I don't have to cut holes in my case. AND....I can change my mind later in the build and not have those holes still there. This is the better way.

This next shot is of the fan mounts. The two on the left are for the motherboard side, and the two on the right are for the PSU side:



Here is a shot of the two motherboard side fan mounts inside the case:



Lastly....here are some cable ties, rubber grommets, plates and bay covers.



I also got two 480 radiator mounts, that are in the pedestal right now. They will be in plenty of upcoming pictures. And I got two additional size tops that will allow for fans, or even radiator and fans, to be on top of the case and out of the main compartment. Will probably be using the larger size, and placing radiator and fans on top of the case. Jim ran out of powder, and had to order more. These will be completed and shipped shortly.

The way these cases have been designed, you can really make it do whatever it is you need to do with your build. And you can do so with limited cutting necessary. And like I said before....that's a beautiful thing. It may feel manly to carve into that case with your Dremel, but that cutting might limit your ability to use the case differently for your next upgrade. With CaseLabs, its all modular, and you can setup your case exactly the way you need it, and then change the case when you change your mind. They really are amazing.


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## Big Elf

Subbed, I really like the colours. This'll be another excellent build, I can feel it in my bones (and checked out the parts list







)


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## theseekeroffun

I love the red! You will have your hands full and a lot of fun. One word of caution, once you begin filling it up, it gets very heavy. I have mine on a mechanical lift and it helps a great deal. Good luck!


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## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I love the red! You will have your hands full and a lot of fun. One word of caution, once you begin filling it up, it gets very heavy. I have mine on a mechanical lift and it helps a great deal. Good luck!


Haha you should try a TX10-D + Pedestal then. The wheels are a necessity!


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## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Well, the next time you talk to Jim, tell him it's an awesome idea. Small extra fee for custom paint colors.
> That plus the inclusion of a modular mid-tower and he would have to have to hire a small army to keep up with sales.


Well the smaller cases are being designed. Bear in mind the prismatic powder is not cheap. The powder for my (albeit enormous) case was $250 on it's own, and that's before Jim would add on fees for the extra overheads associated with it. So don't expect it to be a small fee, at least if you want prismatic powder.


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## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I love the red! You will have your hands full and a lot of fun. One word of caution, once you begin filling it up, it gets very heavy. I have mine on a mechanical lift and it helps a great deal. Good luck!


Thanks! Its OU crimson! Yeah, I've been putting some thought into how to permanently present this big case. I don't want to keep it on the floor, because it makes it tougher to show off the hardware through the window. I'm considering building a custom built table out of wood to raise it up about 18 or 20 inches off the floor, and then storing the UPS under the case in a shelf designed for it. Maybe I store some external USB backup HDD's there also. Still playing with ideas. It's not light even empty, so I can only imagine what its going to feel like fully loaded. Did you convince your wife that the mechanical lift could double as a coffee table?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Haha you should try a TX10-D + Pedestal then. The wheels are a necessity!


I think you should hang a small flat screen TV on the side of your case, leave it in the living room, and call it art/furniture.


----------



## F1ynn

just enter this into an art contest, just do it.


----------



## rrims

..... Sub'ed !!!


----------



## jrl1357

8 vertex 4s, 6 intel 530s, two psus quad sli and a hexacore sb-e.... for browsing ocn?

way to go overkill man! totally subbed this is awsome


----------



## Axis24

Subbed!! And yes I'm flattered that i was part inspiration for this build and no I do not mind you using my Ideas that is the what OCN is for sharing and getting ideas and having fun!!!


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrl1357*
> 
> 8 vertex 4s, 6 intel 530s, two psus quad sli and a hexacore sb-e.... for browsing ocn?
> way to go overkill man! totally subbed this is awsome


Overkill or it's not worth doing, as I say


----------



## F1ynn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Overkill or it's not worth doing, as I say


^ wisdom


----------



## PeteJM

Well this is going to be interesting... Not subbing yet, but jesus is that a beautiful powdercoat job on the case.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Overkill or it's not worth doing, as I say


Reminds me of the recurring Mythbusters quote: "If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing."

Unfortunately, that quote loses to "When in doubt, C4.", but it comes in pretty close.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Reminds me of the recurring Mythbusters quote: "If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing."
> Unfortunately, that quote loses to "When in doubt, C4.", but it comes in pretty close.


I loved those.


----------



## txtrkandy

Overkill SB-E computer that has an amazing powder coat to do with the college I wanna go to??

IM SO SUBBING!!









RAH OKLAHOMA!!!


----------



## Citra

Sub'd.


----------



## tjr2121

Subbed


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F1ynn*
> 
> just enter this into an art contest, just do it.


I'll take that as a compliment F1ynn. Thank you very much. The OU football uniforms are just as nice.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... Sub'ed !!!


Wipe your mouth rrims, and get ready for a fun build! Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrl1357*
> 
> 8 vertex 4s, 6 intel 530s, two psus quad sli and a hexacore sb-e.... for browsing ocn?
> way to go overkill man! totally subbed this is awsome


Overkill for-the-win, right! Thanks jrl357!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Subbed!! And yes I'm flattered that i was part inspiration for this build and no I do not mind you using my Ideas that is the what OCN is for sharing and getting ideas and having fun!!!


Thanks Axis. Anyone who has not checked out Axis' build log should do so immediately. Some sick ideas in there.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Overkill or it's not worth doing, as I say


Overkill FTW, again!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Subbed, I really like the colours. This'll be another excellent build, I can feel it in my bones (and checked out the parts list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thanks Big Elf! I had been through your TH10 build log a few times also. The copper that shows from your memory and GPU waterblocks really is striking in the pictures. I'm planning on a lot of copper accents myself. Hope the build log doesn't disappoint, but I'll be trying hard!


----------



## rrims

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Wipe your mouth rrims, and get ready for a fun build! Thanks!


No! I will when you hurry up and finish this build!


----------



## Quest99

Subbed! Just wow....making me dream again.....wow just wow.









I found out about this log since I saw what you are about to do to with those Noiseblocker fans......


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeteJM*
> 
> Well this is going to be interesting... Not subbing yet, but jesus is that a beautiful powdercoat job on the case.


Thanks for the compliment on the case color, Pete. But geez....what's a guy gotta do for a sub?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Reminds me of the recurring Mythbusters quote: "If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing."
> Unfortunately, that quote loses to "When in doubt, C4.", but it comes in pretty close.


Hmmmmmmmm......gives me ideas for next build theme.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtrkandy*
> 
> Overkill SB-E computer that has an amazing powder coat to do with the college I wanna go to??
> IM SO SUBBING!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAH OKLAHOMA!!!


Another Sooner! Thanks txtrkandy! Was hoping I might flesh a few more Sooners out with this log. I'm in Edmond. You?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Sub'd.


Thank you kindly Citra!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjr2121*
> 
> Subbed


Thank you kindly tjr2121!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> No! I will when you hurry up and finish this build!


Man. I just started a few days ago.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Subbed! Just wow....making me dream again.....wow just wow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found out about this log since I saw what you are about to do to with those Noiseblocker fans......


Thanks Quest99! I haven't yet settled on the Noiseblockers, but I'm down to 2 fans in my evaluation, and the NB's are one of them. I was just playing around with how I could make changes to them. I've posted these in another thread, but here were some ideas I had on taking the black Noiseblockers and making them a little more 'custom'

From this......


To this......


Or this.....


Make sure and click on the picture to get a close up of the custom vinyl stickers. They really came out great! I'll be covering how to do them in my build log if you haven't ever played around with it.

Here's all three:


and a side shot (see how the lettering on the frame still show...and is even more prominent? nice...


----------



## Quest99

^ This ^ .....be still my heart! custom vinyl stickers are awesome....I am a believer!


----------



## Electrocutor

*votes for red blades since your fan mounts are white*


----------



## asg

Looks great...
I really like the red / white.


----------



## Citra

Red fan, white rim. I like the boldness.


----------



## jrl1357

another fan of the red blades and white rim here


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> subbed +1 on 3930K over 3960X, however I'm glad you're hoping for something better to come out first (so am I - real unlocked 8 core anyone?)
> Also 4x680's for someone who doesn't really game? 2 should be enough to max out a U2711. If you're going all out though consider going with 3 of the korean 2560x1440 IPS monitors that can push 120Hz (120hz.net), then at least 4 680's are justified
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice choice on the areca card
> if you're going all out then get some nicer memory - *corsair are going to be releasing that dominator platinum which will have some serious epeen.*
> PSU- check out johnnyguru's review of the lepa 1600W gold. Should take care of your PSU needs without the mess and fuss of two.


Do it Do it!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> *votes for red blades since your fan mounts are white*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> Looks great...
> I really like the red / white.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Red fan, white rim. I like the boldness.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrl1357*
> 
> another fan of the red blades and white rim here


Thanks guys. These were really just for play, and the bright red color doesn't match the crimson colored case at all. But since several people thought they looked sharp, I went to Lowe's today in search of another color of paint that will take on plastic. I found a crimson Rust-o-leum that said it would take to any material, including plastic. Strange. Gave it a shot, and its a little more difficult to work with than the Valspar paint I used the first time. But, it took. I did it quick, and did not do a good job, but again....these are just for play. BUT...the good news is that the crimson rust-o-leum was a real good match for the case color. Quick shot below:



So, if I go this route, I have some good options for painting the fans. I also used the rust-o-leum white, and it was actually a little bit closer match for the CaseLabs white. So...I think I'm good to go if I choose to paint fans.

Now....about those radiators......


----------



## asg

If you paint the fans, I think you will need to paint the radiators too.


----------



## cpachris

Wanted to get some "before" pictures of my radiators done before I start to work on them. As I mentioned in the opening post, I'm using 4 Hardware Labs Black-Ice SR-1 480 radiators, as pictured below:



My goals for this build were to achieve an incredibly quiet machine, without sacrificing performance. One of the methods of achieving a quiet build is to decide upfront that you are going to spin your fans slowly (and get quiet fans!) But since a radiator loses some effectiveness when fans speeds are decreased, I've opted to offset this by adding more radiator space. Four 480's is a lot, and I'm playing around with ideas for possibly 2 more 360's and 1 more 240. That would be 7 separate radiators!

I've played around with a lot of fans so far in planning for this build, and while doing so, I kind of zeroed in on rpm levels of around 900 to 1,000 as a range that doesn't bother me at all sound wise. Some radiators are designed to excel at low fan speeds, and others excel at higher fan speeds. Because I have chosen to go with slower (quieter) fans, this helped me make the decision about what radiators to start with. Here is a closer shot:



The SR-1 has siblings in the Hardware Labs line, with the GTX and the GTS. The SR-1 is the version designed for low fan speeds. In general, it is the fins per inch (fpi) and thickness of the radiator that determine how its optimized. The denser the fin spacing (higher fpi) the more pressure is needed to move air through the radiator. Also, the thicker the radiator, the more pressure is needed to move air through the radiator.



The SR-1 has just 9 fpi, while the GTX has 20 fpi, and the GTS has 30 fpi. So the SR-1 is optimized for lower air flow. Its easier for slow spinning fans to move air through the fins since they are not as dense. The trade-off, of course, is that at higher fan speeds, you generally will not have as good of performance as a radiator with a higher fpi. More fins means more area for heat dissipation. So as long as there is adequate air pressure to move air through the radiator, higher fpi usually translates into better cooling performance, with all else being equal. That's why its important to decide how fast you will typically spin your fans before you select a radiator. The SR-1 is the perfect match for the goals of this build.

The look of the SR-1 is industrial and traditional. According to Hardware Labs, the finish is an "electrostatic polyurethane painting finish". I think its a great look, but the finish wasn't perfect on mine. If you look closely in the pic below, you'll see some of the "streaking" that can be seen on the sides of the rads. It definitely isn't anything to complain too much about, but could have been done a little better:



Click this pic to zoom in and you should see the streaks fairly easily:



Another thing I would point out is that I really hope you like where the in and out fitting holes/threads are located......because there is only one set. Some other radiators offer multiple options for where the fittings can attach, which is a nice option. Not here. This radiator is more of a workhorse than a showhorse, and it goes about its job aptly.

Even though I'm ok with the finish on these radiators, I was hoping to have primarily crimson and white as my build colors, with just touches of black here and there (which is almost unavoidable). So, I took them to the local powder coating shop here in Edmond that is only a few miles from my house. He quoted me "somewhere between $15 and $20 bucks a piece to powder coat them in the color of my choice. I told him I really didn't want a lot of powder down in between the fins (don't want to limit heat transfer) and he didn't think that would be a problem. I like the idea of powder coating them, because the finish will be much more durable, and this will also allow me to minimize the amount of black in the build. I found out the code for the powder that CaseLabs uses for the matte white finish, and gave all four of these rads to the local shop with instructions to do it in the same finish. I should have them back by this weekend, so I'll post some before and after shots of what they look like when I get them back.

I still haven't selected which fan I'll be using on the rads, but at this point, I'm down to 2. While I decide, I've been playing with customizing the look of some of my sample fans, to make them match the look of the build and the radiators. Here is a shot of 4 Noiseblockers, 3 of which I've taken some liberties with:



From left to right,
1) white blades on white frame
2) black on black (as purchased)
3) crimson on white
4) white on crimson

I couldn't do it all in one shot, but of course there is also white on black, and black on white. Which one looks better depends on what the fans are sitting on.



On a black rad, the white on black (not pictured) is pretty sharp. But if they are in the case (white interior), the crimson on white looks very sharp. I think I'll need to wait and see the fans sitting on the soon-to-be white radiators before I really know which one looks best. I'm guessing the crimson on white (crimson blades on white frame) will probably look the best....but we'll see. However, since the rad fans are behind a crimson mesh already, the white fan blades actually "pop" more when the case covers are on. Look for more pictures of the fans along with the newly powder coated radiators by this weekend.

In the meantime, I'm going to finish my selection of fans, and document the process I've gone through with a post and probably a separate thread.


----------



## asg

Are you painting only the frames of the radiators white? or the fins too?

If you do white Frame / black fin radiators, I would do Red frame / White blade fans.


----------



## forumaddict

Holy crap! This is a $20,000 computer! I get about $20,000 when I add up your parts list, making some reasonable assumptions That's on the verge of just plain silly. But I'm jealous as all get out. Will definitely follow this one. Good luck!


----------



## Billy_5110

What is so aweosme about Oklaoma university??? r0fl

anyway awesome build man! lvoe the color of the case


----------



## forumaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Billy_5110*
> 
> What is so aweosme about Oklaoma university??? r0fl
> anyway awesome build man! lvoe the color of the case


Apparently you build $20k pc's if you graduate from there. I'm transferring now!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> Are you painting only the frames of the radiators white? or the fins too?
> If you do white Frame / black fin radiators, I would do Red frame / White blade fans.


My thought was only the frames....but some of that will depend on the guy doing the powdercoating. If he has to sandblast the original finish off, I don't know if he can protect the fins. If he can't protect the fins, then I could either leave them how they come out of the sandblaster (I think they are copper underneath the finish, but unsure if its a bright copper or not), or could have them powdercoated white. May impact performance a little...but can't be too much since almost all rads get painted black. Should know something soon....will definitely update the thread.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *forumaddict*
> 
> Holy crap! This is a $20,000 computer! I get about $20,000 when I add up your parts list, making some reasonable assumptions That's on the verge of just plain silly. But I'm jealous as all get out. Will definitely follow this one. Good luck!


Silly.....or extreme! Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Billy_5110*
> 
> What is so aweosme about Oklaoma university??? r0fl
> anyway awesome build man! lvoe the color of the case



7 national championships
43 conference championships
152 All-Americans
5 Heisman Trophy winners
47 game win streak which is the longest in history and will never be broken
There is only ONE Oklahoma!






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *forumaddict*
> 
> Apparently you build $20k pc's if you graduate from there. I'm transferring now!


Send me your SAT scores and I'll see what I can do.


----------



## Billy_5110

except the football, this university seems useless Oo


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Billy_5110*
> 
> except the football, this university seems useless Oo


How about this? The University of Oklahoma is No. 1 among all public universities in the number of freshman National Merit Scholars enrolled and among the top ten of all public and private universities. OU is home to over 700 currently enrolled National Merit Scholars.

Does that do anything for you?









http://www.ou.edu/go2/home/nationalmerit.html


----------



## cpachris

PSU "Before" Pictures! I'm going with two Corsair AX850 PSU's.



I like the two PSU approach for many reasons. By dividing the load between two PSU's, I can keep the load for either of the PSU's at a minimum, which in turn allows the fan to spin slowly, or even not at all. These Corsair's don't even spin at all until they reach a certain load, and they are basically silent up until that point. I also think that spreading the PSU connections over two boxes makes it a little easier to start your cable routing project. More room to work. Here are some shots of one of the units:







You can see in the pic below that it is a completely modular power supply, which will make sleeving the cables MUCH easier to do.





Most of the cables come sleeved already, but not individually sleeved, ...as any true OCN'er would want.



Closer pic of the sleeving. Its not horrible.












Can anyone help me interpret what this sticker says? I don't speak Spanish.



Too late! Lets see how we can tear this thing apart. It's got a San Ace fan.



Bottom plate comes off pretty easily....



Sides are released.....



Hmmmmm.....switch and outlet only slide out one way.



And for the life of me, if the connections to the switch and outlet are supposed to come out...I couldn't figure out how to do it. So....had to snip some wires. Will be doing some soldering when I put this thing back together.



So here is what it looks like all laid out.



I think this thing is screaming for some powder coating, maybe some copper accents, an upgraded fan, and some custom vinyl stickers. I'll be starting on that shortly. Stay tuned, and subscribed, to see how it comes out!


----------



## Citra

Rebel, voiding that 7 year warranty on the first day.


----------



## Billy_5110

hahaha nice, never saw my power supply naked! pronnnnn

also, you are totally in lvoe with OU aren't you? >.< I don't mind if it's #1 or lastest lol. it doesn't mean anything... You cannot like it that much for a rank XD


----------



## carmas

mmm double PSU modding...


----------



## Systemlord

You now have the most beautiful Case Labs case to date, I'm drooling over the powder coating and need to pick my jaw up off the floor! *cpachris* all of my Hardware Labs SR1's (140.4) have this same streaking and is caused by sliding against the inside of the cardboard boxing during shipment, it's hardly worth mentioning. Oh yeah subbed, don't forget to checkout my build log in sig!


----------



## robertevanshine

ASRock demos X79 Extreme 11 motherboard


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Rebel, voiding that 7 year warranty on the first day.


No comprendo Citra-o.







But I did actually check to see that is was working before ripping into it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Billy_5110*
> 
> hahaha nice, never saw my power supply naked! pronnnnn
> also, you are totally in lvoe with OU aren't you? >.< I don't mind if it's #1 or lastest lol. it doesn't mean anything... You cannot like it that much for a rank XD


I'm also an alum. Best university in the world! Ahhhhh......college. Was the best 9 years of my life.







From what I can remember.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> You now have the most beautiful Case Labs case to date, I'm drooling over the powder coating and need to pick my jaw up off the floor! *cpachris* all of my Hardware Labs SR1's (140.4) have this same streaking and is caused by sliding against the inside of the cardboard boxing during shipment, it's hardly worth mentioning. Oh yeah subbed, don't forget to checkout my build log in sig!


Systemlord...thanks for the kind case comments! Good to know that your SR-1's had the same finish issue...and I agree, its not that big a deal. But....that won't stop me from testing a new white powder coat finish on them! I actually had already found your build log. Coming along nicely. You've got a lot of radiator space in that thing....can't wait to see temps!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robertevanshine*
> 
> ASRock demos X79 Extreme 11 motherboard


Yeah, I'm waiting on this one for sure. Perfect board for me. Timing is not bad either. Its should be released in mid/late July. That gives me a month to finish all the fan/rad/plumbing and custom wires for these items, before I get the board and components.


----------



## cpachris

New package from the KoolRoom! All the way from down-under, this got shipped from Australia.



Lets see what's in it. First up, we have a pump decoupling pad from Phobya. Kind of like a "shoggy sandwhich", but without the hideous orange color. Sorry Shoggy!




Next we have an assortment of anti-vibration gadgets, including rubber fan screws from Nexus, some silicone washers in a white finish, and silicone pads also designed to reduce vibrations. Some small cable management accessories from Mod Smart. The Mod Smart connectors have an almost yellow-ish tint to them, making them unattractive for the build I'm working on. But....I'm thinking I could probably custom color dye them and make them fit right in. We'll see.



Next up is some foam radiator sealing strip from Phobya. Again....just playing around with some ideas. Since I'm going to be running the fans at a slow speed, its important to make sure as much of the air as possible is moved THROUGH the radiator, instead of taking the path of least resistance and leaking out the side. Will be playing with some fan gaskets as well as radiator sealers.



Next up is the real reason I placed this order from the KoolRoom. They were the only place I could find online that carried the Bitspower Carbon Black and Blood Red fittings.





I'm in the middle of accumulating one compression fitting in every finish, or manufacturer, that I'm considering for my build. I've got eight different ones now, and I'll be featuring them in an upcoming post with some close macros shots of all of them. May be useful if you're currently trying to decide what finish to go with for your fittings.

And finally.....some free candy.



Now if I had known that I got free Nerds from down-under with every order....I would have been buying from these guys all the time!


----------



## cpachris

Finally got notification today that my Aqua Computer orders have partially shipped. The good news is it includes the copper fin AMS radiators, the poweradjusts, and some other misc stuff. The bad news, still waiting on the Aquaero 5 XT. But...at least getting the rads and poweradjusts and temperature sensors in will let me move forward with some wiring that I want to work on.

Everytime I email them and inquire about status of the order, they politely tell me it should ship the next week. Its been more than a month now. I also find their website extremely frustrating to use. One of my two orders still shows that it is "pending payment", and neither show they have shipped. The customer service experience is lacking there. And although they were kind enough to add-on one item to my initial order via email, it still doesn't show up in my order detail I can view from the web. Again, they assure me via email not to worry...that they know its been added. Hope I like the hardware! Would love to hear if anybody else is as frustrated with their website/customer service as I am. Share your experiences.

Here is a couple of shots of tearing down my Lamptron FC8.



I find the overall build quality of this controller average. Some of the parts feel a little flimsy, and one of the molex connectors had loose pins in it. And the 7th channel doesn't regulate voltage at all....it simply turns it on/off once the dial is turned up about 1/2 way. I guess I could RMA it, but seems like a bother for a small item.



I do, however, love the fact that the color of the LED's are customizable without having to mess with any little jumpers. You simply click on some of the knobs to rotate through different colors. I will of course be using the red.



Instructions say its important to plug in all 3 of the molex connectors. Really? Anybody else have any experience with this thing?



And it comes apart very simply, so I think I'll take this opportunity to powder coat those side panels white, since they will be inside the case. And I'll probably have the main faceplate powder coated the same crimson color as the case. Its a nice heavy aluminum, so should work fine. Anything else come to mind when looking at it?


----------



## Quest99

Love your product photography skills. Keep them coming!


----------



## asg

If you are planning on using the Aquaero, why are you still using the Lamptron?

I have been waiting for my Aquaero for almost 2 months.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Love your product photography skills. Keep them coming!


Thanks Quest. Photography is the real hobby, that makes me keep buying or building new computers. Storage needs keep growing, video editing software keeps demanding more processing power. But since all of the processing of the pictures is computer work, it makes sense to have a nice computer that you enjoy working on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> If you are planning on using the Aquaero, why are you still using the Lamptron?
> I have been waiting for my Aquaero for almost 2 months.


Fair question. I'll use the Aquaero and the PA2's to control all of the fans and pumps. I'm planning on using the Lamptron to control case lighting. I like to be able to reach out and touch a knob to turn the lights up or down, or off. Can't think of any reason I would want the lights controlled by one of the sensors available to the Aquaero. After I get it and play with it, I may change my mind. But that is the current plan. I'm planning on some strip LED lighting in both the bottom compartment and main sections (both sides), and I've got 1/2 a mind to try one of the illuminated panels like in the Murderbox builds. I really like the infinity mirrors also, and I'm going to have one 3 fan bay area open to play with some type of lighting project.

Two months? It must be driving you crazy. They must hate me by now, because I email them every week. Figure if they only get a few out of the next production batch, they will silence the squeakiest wheels first.


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I find the overall build quality of this controller average. Some of the parts feel a little flimsy, and one of the molex connectors had loose pins in it. And the 7th channel doesn't regulate voltage at all....it simply turns it on/off once the dial is turned up about 1/2 way. I guess I could RMA it, but seems like a bother for a small item.


I find most Lamptron things to be below average in quality.
An FC6 had a knob break and fall off; but before that it already had its 4 knobs all at different heights. Pretty annoying.

An FC2 caused constant shorts against the side of the casing; channel 1 died and now channel 4 is going to die as well.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volvo*
> 
> I find most Lamptron things to be below average in quality.
> An FC6 had a knob break and fall off; but before that it already had its 4 knobs all at different heights. Pretty annoying.
> An FC2 caused constant shorts against the side of the casing; channel 1 died and now channel 4 is going to die as well.


Glad to see its not just me, Volvo.







Have you found any controllers you find of better quality? Its a shame really, because I do think that Lamptron makes an attractive product. Just need a lttle better quality control I guess.

By the way, I just recently did some car shopping, and the Volvo XC90 was one of my four finalists. Good looking SUV.


----------



## Big Elf

I had planned to use a couple of Lamptron FC2s in my Case Labs only to find that the mounting bracket didn't meet the 5 1/4" bay specifications and was too large to fit. A few other people have had the same problem with this. I ended up with a couple of NZXT Sentry Mesh which admittedly look good.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I had planned to use a couple of Lamptron FC2s in my Case Labs only to find that the mounting bracket didn't meet the 5 1/4" bay specifications and was too large to fit. A few other people have had the same problem with this. I ended up with a couple of NZXT Sentry Mesh which admittedly look good.


Hope my FC8 fits. Haven't tried to put it in the case yet, and its currently disassembled awaiting some customization. So the NZXT controllers look good....but do they feel any more substantial than the Lamptron controllers do? Better quality?


----------



## Big Elf

Quality of the electronics/heatsinks looks about the same. What I liked about the FC2s was the substantial aluminium fascia which the NZXT Mesh's don't have. After 9 months the Mesh's still look good and work OK and I've grown to like the sliders instead of knobs as it's easier to see instantly what setting they're on although they do spend most of the time at the lowest one. I've been tempted to get the fascias powder coated but am not sure whether it'd block off some of the mesh holes.

The NZXT also come with black fan extensions wires and connection housings rather than the cheapy looking unsleeved multi-coloured wires with white connection housings on the Lamptron.


----------



## cpachris

I did another dye bath test yesterday. I've been trying to perfect dyeing MDPC-X sleeve to match my case. I was successful in dyeing heatshrink for this test for the first time! So I'm planning on custom color dyeing some tubing, sleeve, connectors and HEATSHRINK for this build. Check out test results in this link.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I did another dye bath test yesterday. I've been trying to perfect dyeing MDPC-X sleeve to match my case. I was successful in dyeing heatshrink for this test for the first time! So I'm planning on custom color dyeing some tubing, sleeve, connectors and HEATSHRINK for this build. Check out test results in this link.


AMAZING! A guide is in order! You just opened a HUGE window of custom fantasy!


----------



## cpachris

Now that's a big bunch of fans......



I'll do a post on my fan selection process today or tomorrow, but it honestly took me more than two weeks of listening to a bunch of samples I bought. In the end, the Noiseblocker Multiframe S2's were the right fan for this build. More behind the reasoning in upcoming post.

Also found room to squeeze one more radiator in the pedestal, I believe.


----------



## txtrkandy

@cpachris I have wanted to go to OU for awhile, I am a senior in HS currently, probably for financial reasons going to do 2 years at the local junior college and transfer into OU after that, I have no clue what I am going to be studying, it might be business or IT something. I would be moving to Norman though because I have friends there and he said I could be his roomate.

I have been super busy but I read thru everything I missed in the buildlog, and I like what I see, my heart dropped when you ripped apart that Corsair.

For the fans, I think Crimson on white personally...







Keep up the fantastic work!!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtrkandy*
> 
> @cpachris I have wanted to go to OU for awhile, I am a senior in HS currently, probably for financial reasons going to do 2 years at the local junior college and transfer into OU after that, I have no clue what I am going to be studying, it might be business or IT something. I would be moving to Norman though because I have friends there and he said I could be his roomate.
> I have been super busy but I read thru everything I missed in the buildlog, and I like what I see, my heart dropped when you ripped apart that Corsair.
> For the fans, I think Crimson on white personally...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the fantastic work!!


I'm a grad from their business college, so I can vouch for that part of it. Not sure what the reputation of the IT program is like. Norman is an absolutely awesome little college town. If you make it here, you'll love it.

Don't despair over the Corsair (hey, that rhymes!). They are going to look amazing when I'm done with them.


----------



## cpachris

Got a radiator back from my local powder coater! Here are some shots:

Can't powder coat on top of paint, so that black finish needs to come off. This is the sandblasting machine. Was cool to watch:



He would use the two big protected gloves to move the radiator around inside the machine.



It took the painted finish off the Hardware Labs SR-1 lickety split



Its clearly made of brass, with copper fins



So it went from this:



To this...in no time at all



So now its ready to powder coat. I didn't get any pictures of the actual powder coating process, but I'll try to for the next batch. Here it is:



It came out beautiful.



Click some of the pictures to get a close-up of the matte finish and light texture.



It doesn't look like paint....its got the texture and crisp finish of powder coating



Kept these plugs in it to keep the sand/powder out of the inside:



Lets take em' out now





Have you ever seen a build where someone paints a component white, and it looks great....but when they put it in their case its a little different shade of white and just looks "off"? Not here. I had my local powder coater use the exact brand and color of powder that Caselabs uses for the matte white finish. It is a perfect match.



I couldn't be happier with how it came out.



If you're wondering why I'm only showing you one....the powder coater wanted to do one as a test, and see if it caused leaks. He was a little worried that the high heat required to cure the powder might melt some of the solder used in the radiator. So....I'm going to give it some leak tests before I give him the go ahead to do the rest. Should have the rest of them back this week, along with some other trim parts I gave him.

I'm also going to put my fan combinations on these radiators and take some pictures to solicit some feedback from everyone on color combinations. I had done a few before when the radiator was black, but now that its white I want to take another look.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Might I ask what kind of camera you are using, cause I want one. Can't wait to see the finished product cause it's going to look nice.


----------



## Quest99

What an amazing update! Looking really clean!


----------



## BlazinJoker

cpachris...words can't describe the awesomeness level of this build. When I first commented on your dying process I had no idea how over-the-top you were going with this build. Can't believe it took me this long to find your log. Really like the white frame red blade design. AND HOLY CRAP 1K JUST FOR FANS!!!! Sorry had to get that out. Great work so far


----------



## txtrkandy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm a grad from their business college, so I can vouch for that part of it. Not sure what the reputation of the IT program is like. Norman is an absolutely awesome little college town. If you make it here, you'll love it.
> Don't despair over the Corsair (hey, that rhymes!). They are going to look amazing when I'm done with them.


I have been to Norman many times and love it, And I really cant tell a difference in the powder coat colors but question... Why didnt the sand blasting damage the fins on the radiator??


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Might I ask what kind of camera you are using, cause I want one. Can't wait to see the finished product cause it's going to look nice.


I appreciate the comments Fateful! I've got a Canon 30D and a Canon 7D that is kind of new. But in all honesty, its really the lens' that matters the most. I've used several in some of the shots I've posted. I've got the 70-300mm 2.8 II IS (which is an AWESOME lens), 35mm 1.8, 17-85mm 2.8 IS, and a 60mm 2.8 macro lens. Got a few others, but they are not appropriate for these types of pictures. If you're jumping into photography, put more of your money into glass, than into the camera. I'll post a picture of my "faux studio" in next post.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> What an amazing update! Looking really clean!


Always appreciate your positive comments Quest! Keeps me going!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> cpachris...words can't describe the awesomeness level of this build. When I first commented on your dying process I had no idea how over-the-top you were going with this build. Can't believe it took me this long to find your log. Really like the white frame red blade design. AND HOLY CRAP 1K JUST FOR FANS!!!! Sorry had to get that out. Great work so far


Thank you kindly Joker! I still love the whole dyeing process. Its just kind of fun. Sometime in the next few days I'll be doing my big official dye bath for this build. Will do a couple hundred feet of sleeve, some tubing, connectors, and heat shrink. That whole dye thread was a build-up for this Boomer build. It's a lot of fans. I know. But during my evaluation (upcoming post with more detail), I learned that the Noiseblocker M12-S2 is absolutely silent when undervolted to about 5 volts. Not quiet. Not barely audible. Silent. And sure, when any fan is spinning that slowly its not going to churn a 'typhoon' of air by itself.....but with 50 of them all working together in a well designed air flow plan...I think I can have silence and still keep the air moving. We will see, I guess. But that was the whole idea with putting in so many radiators. Slow spinning fans will make any individual radiator less effective. But with seven raidators, I think I'll get fantastic cooling AND silence.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtrkandy*
> 
> I have been to Norman many times and love it, And I really cant tell a difference in the powder coat colors but question... Why didnt the sand blasting damage the fins on the radiator??


I wasn't certain it wasn't going to damage it. Those fins are pretty thin. But that's one of the reasons we only did one radiator to start with. I didn't want to ruin all of them in one swoop. Not sure I could RMA a white radiator back to Hardware Labs.







But no real damage occurred to the fins, and I'll know quickly if the heat damaged any soldered parts. Thanks for following along!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I appreciate the comments Fateful! I've got a Canon 30D and a Canon 7D that is kind of new. But in all honesty, its really the lens' that matters the most. I've used several in some of the shots I've posted. I've got the 70-300mm 2.8 II IS (which is an AWESOME lens), 35mm 1.8, 17-85mm 2.8 IS, and a 60mm 2.8 macro lens. Got a few others, but they are not appropriate for these types of pictures. If you're jumping into photography, put more of your money into glass, than into the camera. I'll post a picture of my "faux studio" in next post.
> Always appreciate your positive comments Quest! Keeps me going!
> ~snip~


Not really getting into photography just appreciate high quality photos and the ones you've been taking are prime examples. I am however looking for a really good camera and just didn't know where to start. I love taking close up shots in high detail more than anything else. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

This is simply amazing! I love it! Subbed!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## barkinos98

def subbed. nice build you got there OP







and i thought my $5000 rig would be kickass







(lol it will be)


----------



## mandrix

I have that same (FC8) fan controller, but have not used it at this point since the build is in an early stage. I too am puzzled by the instructions to connect all 3 molex. I have a 1000w Seasonic so I don't think the power will be insufficient on a single connector. More likely they don't have much confidence in their molex connectors. I would take the 30w/channel rating with a grain of salt, though.
No heat sinks which is surprising. I have a Sunbeam Rheobus with good sized sinks and it's a workhorse, although I subbed a Scythe Pro for it since I didn't like the super bright knob illumination.
The FC8 is a tight fit in my Switch, but not ridiculously so.

Good luck with your build. Love that you powercoated a rad.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Not really getting into photography just appreciate high quality photos and the ones you've been taking are prime examples. I am however looking for a really good camera and just didn't know where to start. I love taking close up shots in high detail more than anything else. Thanks for the advice.


Well, if you like the close ups (macro photography), then you have to get a DSLR. Can't do those shots justice with with the lens that come on a Powershot, or Elph. And then you need a macro lens to go with your camera. So if you want to do it cheaply, I would get any of the Canon Rebel lines of DSLR's (as low as $500 bucks when sales run), and then get a macro lens. Here is a good starter macro lens.

Just noticed you are from Olla, LA. I lived in DeRidder, LA for about 4 years or so back in 1999-2003. Know anyone there?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> This is simply amazing! I love it! Subbed!
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks Jeffinslaw! I've got a sister living in Seattle. Visited last summer and really enjoyed. Nice area.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> def subbed. nice build you got there OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and i thought my $5000 rig would be kickass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (lol it will be)


Thanks barkinos98! And I'm sure it will be! I spent less than $5 grand on the box I've been using for about 3 years now, and I've loved it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I have that same (FC8) fan controller, but have not used it at this point since the build is in an early stage. I too am puzzled by the instructions to connect all 3 molex. I have a 1000w Seasonic so I don't think the power will be insufficient on a single connector. More likely they don't have much confidence in their molex connectors. I would take the 30w/channel rating with a grain of salt, though.
> No heat sinks which is surprising. I have a Sunbeam Rheobus with good sized sinks and it's a workhorse, although I subbed a Scythe Pro for it since I didn't like the super bright knob illumination.
> The FC8 is a tight fit in my Switch, but not ridiculously so.
> Good luck with your build. Love that you powercoated a rad.


Thanks for the kind words about the radiator, mandrix! Yeah, I kind of scratched my head at the lack of some gigantic heat sinks on the back of the FC8. Although I haven't tried to put it in the case yet, I did use it extensively during my fan evaluation process. So I had all 8 channels connected to single fans, and I only had one of the molex connectors plugged in. Not large amps being pulled down from single fans, but it at least gave me confidence it was going to work. The Hitlights I'll be using have a 72 watt rating for the entire strip, but I'm planning on cutting this down to size and not having large sections on any one channel. Hope it works.


----------



## cpachris

Pics of ghetto radiator flushing and looking for leaks.



I found that with a 1/2 inch ID tube, it fit nice and snug over my kitchen sink faucet once I took off the sprayer head. Put an extra compression fitting on the rad, connected tube, and started the water.



No initial leaks, so I turned water on full blast and all the way to hot.



After about 20 minutes with hot water on at full blast, nothing was leaking from radiator, so that's a good sign. The powder coater was worried that the high heat of the powder curing oven (400+ degrees) was going to melt some solder inside. All water coming out of rad was clear, and no leaks anywere else, so I think I can safely say we didn't break the radiator with the whole powder coating process. Yea! I've called the powder coater and given him the green light on the others, and I should have them back tomorrow. Will do a picture update with all of them in the box. I'll flush all the rads like this with hot tap water, and then flush again with distilled water before hooking up the loop.

I've updated the opening post with index links, and parts order status. Hope that helps. My kids started their two weeks with their mother today, so I'm childless the next two weeks. :< Although I'll miss them terribly, it will give me some extra time to spend on this build over the next 14 days. Expect a lot of updates and pictures during this time!


----------



## halcyon-twin

alright man, you might be a Sooner, and I may be a Longhorn







, but I can definitely respect your case. That is one awesome design and I love the layout. Awesome!


----------



## Onions

there are some logs.... beautiful logs.... that make you want to cry, and this is one of them. Amazing job man i hope someday i can affored to put something like this together. But the thought you put into the peices and fans alone is astounding


----------



## Systemlord

Words just fail to describe your build, just WOW!!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Well, if you like the close ups (macro photography), then you have to get a DSLR. Can't do those shots justice with with the lens that come on a Powershot, or Elph. And then you need a macro lens to go with your camera. So if you want to do it cheaply, I would get any of the Canon Rebel lines of DSLR's (as low as $500 bucks when sales run), and then get a macro lens. Here is a good starter macro lens.
> Just noticed you are from Olla, LA. I lived in DeRidder, LA for about 4 years or so back in 1999-2003. Know anyone there?


Hmm, I think I saw an Eos Rebel over at Bestbuy for $365 the other day but I'll have to check again. As per the location query I'm not originally from this area, we moved down here from Arkansas to be closer to my grandmother when her husband passed away. Besides that I just chill in my room cause there's nothing to do around here.









Glad to hear your Rad passed the leak test, and that sink Idea was neat.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halcyon-twin*
> 
> alright man, you might be a Sooner, and I may be a Longhorn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I can definitely respect your case. That is one awesome design and I love the layout. Awesome!


That's big praise, coming from a Longhorn! Much appreciated halcyon. And there's nothing wrong with Texas. There NEEDS to be a school for the football players that can't make it at OU.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> there are some logs.... beautiful logs.... that make you want to cry, and this is one of them. Amazing job man i hope someday i can affored to put something like this together. But the thought you put into the peices and fans alone is astounding


Thanks a ton Onions! Love the positive comments.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Words just fail to describe your build, just WOW!!


Thanks again, SystemLord!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Hmm, I think I saw an Eos Rebel over at Bestbuy for $365 the other day but I'll have to check again. As per the location query I'm not originally from this area, we moved down here from Arkansas to be closer to my grandmother when her husband passed away. Besides that I just chill in my room cause there's nothing to do around here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear your Rad passed the leak test, and that sink Idea was neat.


That's either a great price, or it doesn't include a lens with the kid (body only). And I'll second that.....there wasn't much to do in DeRidder either. Although I did learn the art of eating crawfish while there!


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *forumaddict*
> 
> Holy crap! This is a $20,000 computer! I get about $20,000 when I add up your parts list, making some reasonable assumptions That's on the verge of just plain silly. But I'm jealous as all get out. Will definitely follow this one. Good luck!


Nah, it's pretty easy to drop a lot of coin on a serious build. Especially when you have friends that corrupt you and give you crazy ideas!



I take partial responsibility for his actions.....








Keep it up Sooner!


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That's big praise, coming from a Longhorn! Much appreciated halcyon. And there's nothing wrong with Texas. There NEEDS to be a school for the football players that can't make it at OU.


Now, now...
We all know Sooner or later Chokelahoma will win the big game


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Nah, it's pretty easy to drop a lot of coin on a serious build. Especially when you have friends that corrupt you and give you crazy ideas! I take partial responsibility for his actions.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep it up Sooner!


Corruption. That's really what is was. And for those that haven't checked out the Complete Madness worklog, the link is in his sig. Some insane stuff in there. Thanks Rocky!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halcyon-twin*
> 
> Now, now...
> We all know Sooner or later Chokelahoma will win the big game


Touche'. I can laugh at their recent struggles. Why does Oklahoma eat their cereal in a plate? They don't know what to do in a bowl. da-dump. rimshot!


----------



## Axis24

WOW , and here I thought I was doing something spectacular, and now after seeing theseekeroffun's build log I might as well just go home.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> WOW , and here I thought I was doing something spectacular, and now after seeing theseekeroffun's build log I might as well just go home.


Thank you for the compliment, however I am MAD, don't follow my lead. Just have fun and follow this Sooner's build.


----------



## GingerJohn

Just read the thread so far, not sure if I want to laugh, cry or do a little dance. I'll sub whilst I decide...

Awesome work, glad the radiator turned out OK. They obviously use a solder with a melting point above 400°F.


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Thank you for the compliment, however I am MAD, don't follow my lead. Just have fun and follow this Sooner's build.


LOL To late I am already in the group of Crazies check the "CHI YOU" build log in intel builds and I'm already planning the next one.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> WOW , and here I thought I was doing something spectacular, and now after seeing theseekeroffun's build log I might as well just go home.


Seeker's build log is a fun read. Lots of interaction from lots of people.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Thank you for the compliment, however I am MAD, don't follow my lead. Just have fun and follow this Sooner's build.


He is mad. THREE LOOPS!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Just read the thread so far, not sure if I want to laugh, cry or do a little dance. I'll sub whilst I decide...
> Awesome work, glad the radiator turned out OK. They obviously use a solder with a melting point above 400°F.


I'd suggest doing a little dance, video taping it, and posting for all us to see. Thanks for the kind words, GingerJohn!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> LOL To late I am already in the group of Crazies check the "CHI YOU" build log in intel builds and I'm already planning the next one.


Yes. I think that Axis, asg, hyperlite and b-negative have some of the coolest active builds going right now. I've stolen, er....borrowed..., many ideas from all of these.


----------



## marbleduck

Mother of god, that thing is red


----------



## cpachris

Crimson!


----------



## cpachris

Would like everyone's help with fan color combinations. Since I've settled on the Noiseblocker, and settled on white radiators, I can use my sample fans in different color combinations and see how they look...both on the radiator, and in the case. I've got three colors to play with (crimson, white and black), and each fan could have the frame and blades painted separately. That gives me 9 possible combinations:

(blades on frame)
1. white on crimson
2. black on white
3. white on black
4. crimson on white
5. black on crimson
6. white on white
7. crimson on black
8. black on black (as purchased)
9. crimson on crimson

Here are some individual shots of each of the nine cominations, in this same order:

1. white on crimson


2. black on white


3. white on black


4. crimson on white


5. black on crimson


6. white on white


7. crimson on black


8. black on black (as purchased)


9. crimson on crimson


Now here is how they look on the white radiator (from left to right).

(blades on frame)
1. white on crimson
2. black on white
3. white on black
4. crimson on white


5. black on crimson
6. white on white
7. crimson on black


8. black on black (as purchased)
9. crimson on crimson


Now here is how they look on the white radiator, with the crimson case showing (from left to right).

(blades on frame)
1. white on crimson
2. black on white
3. white on black
4. crimson on white


5. black on crimson
6. white on white
7. crimson on black


8. black on black (as purchased)
9. crimson on crimson


For the fans in front of the case, the frame doesn't really show, so its just the blades to consider. Here is a shot of all 3 possible blade colors inside the case:

With the case front cover off:


With the case front cover on:


Now before you vote on one, let me tell you why I think I want to eliminate some combinations. First off, I love the little black rubber corner pieces, and I think they look especially sharp and stand out if the frame is a color OTHER THAN BLACK. So....if I don't want a black frame, that would eliminate three options below (#3, #7, and #8):

(blades on frame)
1. white on crimson
2. black on white
3. white on black
4. crimson on white
5. black on crimson
6. white on white
7. crimson on black
8. black on black (as purchased)
9. crimson on crimson

I also really like having contrast between the frame and blades. I think it looks better when they are not both the same color. So....if I don't want the blades and frame to be the same color, that would eliminate two more options (#6 and #9):

(blades on frame)
1. white on crimson
2. black on white
3. white on black
4. crimson on white
5. black on crimson
6. white on white
7. crimson on black
8. black on black (as purchased)
9. crimson on crimson

So I'm left with just 4 possible combinations, and I really love each one of these. I could choose to do them all the same, or I could mix it up. Out of these four that are left, I would really like to know what you think looks best.

(blades on frame)
1. white on crimson
2. black on white
4. crimson on white
5. black on crimson

There is a part of me that wants to paint the blades....just because I feel like I'm doing something. But there is also a part of me that wonders if the translucent look of the black blades would be cool with all of the lighting I'm going to have inside of the case.

Can't wait to see what you think! Vote by #, or by description (blades on frame). I should receive my fans in the mail tomorrow, so I need to be busy painting this weekend. I appreciate in advance your opinions!


----------



## GingerJohn

For me it is either 1 or 4.

Reasons:

I don't like the translucent blades, and when they are spinning the solid colours will look fairly translucent anyway.
There needs to be some colour in there - white on white on white on white is boring

For 1 - The red, sorry _crimson_, stands out a bit more there.
For 4 - The stationary parts are white (rad, case and frame), the moving parts crimson.

It would be hard to mix up the colouring without it looking messy, so I would be tempted to stick to one colour scheme (assuming all the rads are the same colour).


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> The red, sorry _crimson_, stands out a bit more there.


Good catch. Thank you.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> .....and when they are spinning the solid colours will look fairly translucent anyway.
> There needs to be some colour in there - white on white on white on white is boring.
> It would be hard to mix up the colouring without it looking messy, so I would be tempted to stick to one colour scheme (assuming all the rads are the same colour).


Thoughtful reasoning. Much appreciated.


----------



## Big Elf

I like Crimson on White, it stands out particularly well with the case panel fitted.


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Nah, it's pretty easy to drop a lot of coin on a serious build. Especially when you have friends that corrupt you and give you crazy ideas!
> 
> I take partial responsibility for his actions.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep it up Sooner!


Lol I should have known!

Great builds from you both









And I realised you have the same love for white as I do. Powdercoating the rads white was a brave and badass thing to do man mate!


----------



## Axis24

Such a tuff decision but I personally like the way the 4th one on the rad looks (white and black frame with the crimson blade.









And thank you for the compliment on my build.


----------



## CiBi

subbed!!!!

and i like the crimson on crimson fans


----------



## Quest99

Crimson on white gets my vote.


----------



## carmas

Another vote for crimson on white.

Do you think it will be possible to paint white also the remaining black mountings? Imho it will make the fans even better.


----------



## vitality

wow, build looks great! I vote for crimson on white as well, and i'm from Edmond too.

Boomer Sooner!


----------



## GingerJohn

If you can, try powering the fans up and taking some photos with them spinning. That might make the decision easier.

Worth a try at least.


----------



## TheGrayDon10

i vote 2 or 5


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I like Crimson on White.......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> ..but I personally like the...white and black frame with the crimson blade.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> .... i like the crimson on crimson fans


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Crimson on white gets my vote.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Another vote for crimson on white.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vitality*
> 
> I vote for crimson on white ...


Thank you all for the votes! Keep em' coming!


----------



## theseekeroffun

Crimson on white.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> And I realised you have the same love for white as I do. Powdercoating the rads white was a brave and badass thing to do man mate!


Thanks netdevil. White rocks. Wish you could see the rads in person. They really came out awesome. Appreciate the kind words.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> subbed!!!!


Clean up your chin CiBi! Thanks for coming along for the ride!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> And thank you for the compliment on my build.


You are welcome....and thanks for putting so many ideas in my head.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Do you think it will be possible to paint white also the remaining black mountings? Imho it will make the fans even better.


Hmmmmm........they are made of rubber, and you have to really squeeze and compress them to slide them in/out of the plastic frames. Not sure paint would survive that kind of stress. But....since I have lots of samples, I'll give it a try. Will post some pictures later for you to see. I really like the way the black rubber looks though!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> If you can, try powering the fans up and taking some photos with them spinning. That might make the decision easier.
> Worth a try at least.


I probably should have thought of that also. My PSU's are still in pieces with various parts at different powder coaters, and I'm going to have to solder some wires together to put them back in working order. I wonder if I could temporarily run the fans with just a 9-volt battery? I might try that. If I can get the fans spinning, I think a video would be in order. Thanks for the idea.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hmmmmm........they are made of rubber, and you have to really squeeze and compress them to slide them in/out of the plastic frames. Not sure paint would survive that kind of stress. But....since I have lots of samples, I'll give it a try. Will post some pictures later for you to see. I really like the way the black rubber looks though!


Probably you are right, when mounting them back they will most likely be scratched. But you are the master of dyes and paints, so if anybody can pull this off, that's you


----------



## Big Elf

I don't know if these *Phobya 90W PSUs* are available in the US but they're a useful low cost thing to have for testing stuff out. I also use mine for running the pumps when I'm filling, bleeding and leak testing my loops.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vitality*
> 
> wow, build looks great! ..... and i'm from Edmond too.
> Boomer Sooner!


Boomer Sooner! I've drawn out a few of us with this log. Which golf course do you play? I'm up by Oak Tree.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Probably you are right, when mounting them back they will most likely be scratched. But you are the master of dyes and paints, so if anybody can pull this off, that's you


Ha! lol. Problem with dye, is you can't dye it lighter....only darker. Hmmmmmmm....what if I soaked them in Clorox first? Might try a few things. Thanks for putting more "stupid things to try" in my head.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I don't know if these *Phobya 90W PSUs* are available in the US but they're a useful low cost thing to have for testing stuff out. I also use mine for running the pumps when I'm filling, bleeding and leak testing my loops.


That sounds like it would be handy. I'll take a look. Thanks.


----------



## Big Elf

If you do get one then one of these *on/off switches* is useful, particularly for 'bumping' the pumps when filling.


----------



## forumaddict

Wow! Need to tune in more frequently. Gone for a week, and I'm missing a lot of stuff.

First of all, those white powder coated radiators are the slickest things I've seen. I can' t wait to see them all in the case. Thanks for posting the sand blasting pictures. Had never seen what one of those machines looks like.

Secondly, I vote crimson on white for the fans.


----------



## legoman786

My wife is a die-hard OU fan. She's from Valliant, actually.

I love your build man.


----------



## TheBadBull

Wohow this build is amazing.

Subbed.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> If you can, try powering the fans up and taking some photos with them spinning. That might make the decision easier.
> Worth a try at least.


Ok. Spinning them up makes a lot sense, but as mentioned previously, both of my PSU's are torn down right now for some customization. So, that gave me the opportunity to try a ghetto PSU from a 9-volt battery. Here is what I did:

First, I grabbed a regular male to female fan cable I had laying around


Then I pulled out just the red and black pins from the connector


Did the same thing for 3 other fan cables, so now I have four total


Cut a small piece of 26 awg wire


Stripped about 1.5 inches of insulation off of one end, and a few millimeters off the other end


I took all 4 red wires/pins that I had disconnected from the fan connectors, and wrapped the 26 awg wire around them to tie them altogether


Put a piece of heatshrink on to give it a little more hold


Then lit it up with a lighter till it was tight


Did the same thing for the black wires


Then got my solder iron out and a 9-volt battery, and went about securing the other end of the wires I had cut to the battery terminals. I know, I know....real ghetto stuff.....but I didn't have a 9-volt cap laying around anywhere, and all I want to do is power up some fans so I can show them to you on video. So it will do for now.


Globbed it in there pretty good


I plugged a fan in to test...and it worked! So, I took it upstairs where I had the case still, and lined up three fans. Crimson blades, black blades and white blades. And Big Elf was right....its easier to see which looks better when the fans are spinning. I know what I think now....let me know what you think. 60 second video below:


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 1. white on crimson


OH YES! YOU DIRTY GIRL!
That is gorgeous !


----------



## GingerJohn

Wow, I knew a 9v battery would spin one fan up, but 3? That is pretty hard core for a little battery.

Crimson on white, sold.

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 1. white on crimson
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OH YES! YOU DIRTY GIRL!
> That is gorgeous !
Click to expand...

You need to get out more. Or less, I'm not sure.


----------



## Axis24

Not sure of the name of the song but i'll bet my money it's the DEAD!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Not sure of the name of the song but i'll bet my money it's the DEAD!!!!!!!!!!


Grateful Dead!! Yes!

Anybody know the song?


----------



## meeps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Grateful Dead!! Yes!
> Anybody know the song?


CRIMSON!!

.... and 'sugaree'


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meeps*
> 
> CRIMSON!!
> .... and 'sugaree'


Sugaree! FTW!

Found me a fellow Deadhead.


----------



## Quest99

Wow,,,this is quickly becoming my favorite build log!









After watching that quick video.....Crimson wins again!


----------



## Axis24

Damn I was going to say but I wasn't for 100% sure.


----------



## meeps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Sugaree! FTW!
> Found me a fellow Deadhead.


hahaha noo... googled the lyrics







.. but i do enjoy me some dead from time to time. saw phil lesh & friends 5 years ago!


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Sugaree! FTW!
> Found me a fellow Deadhead.


Fellow Deadhead and Phishhead here not to mention a few other jam bands:thumb:


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGrayDon10*
> 
> i vote 2 or 5 (ninja inline edit...that's black on white and black on crimson)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Crimson on white.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *forumaddict*
> 
> I vote crimson on white for the fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> ....white on crimson.....(ninja inline edit....I slightly modified the actual wording)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Crimson on white, sold.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meeps*
> 
> CRIMSON!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Crimson wins again!


Thank you all for the votes. Crimson on white appears to be the favorite so far. Fans should be here tomorrow, so I'll be painting tomorrow night. Votes will count up until about 5:00 pm CST. After that, I have some fittings that I would love some feedback on. Look for post tomorrow.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *forumaddict*
> 
> Wow! Need to tune in more frequently. Gone for a week, and I'm missing a lot of stuff.
> First of all, those white powder coated radiators are the slickest things I've seen. I can' t wait to see them all in the case. Thanks for posting the sand blasting pictures. Had never seen what one of those machines looks like.


Thanks addict! I'm diggin' the white radiators also. Playing with some black molding around the edges right now, which I'll show off in some pics tomorrow. Let me know what you think about it. And yes, the sandblaster was cool.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> My wife is a die-hard OU fan. She's from Valliant, actually.
> I love your build man.


Clearly you married a smart woman! Tell her I've done the drive between Hugo and Idabel a few times, so I've rolled through Valliant....but never stopped there. Small town! My insurance company had offices in Hugo and Idabel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wohow this build is amazing.
> Subbed.


Always appreciate the kind words, BadBull!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> OH YES! YOU DIRTY GIRL!
> That is gorgeous !


Um.....not really sure what to say here. Thanks?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Wow, I knew a 9v battery would spin one fan up, but 3? That is pretty hard core for a little battery.
> 
> (Bloitz)....You need to get out more. Or less, I'm not sure.


Makes me wonder if I could run a pump for a little bit off a battery. Hmmmm........Might try that just for fun.

Agreed.....I'm unsure even what to say to Bloitz.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Wow,,,this is quickly becoming my favorite build log!


Oooohhh. Now I feel pressure to keep it up. But I'm up to the challenge. Some cool stuff coming up soon!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Damn I was going to say but I wasn't for 100% sure.


Should have gone with your gut!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meeps*
> 
> hahaha noo... googled the lyrics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. but i do enjoy me some dead from time to time. saw phil lesh & friends 5 years ago!


Google FTW! Phil can thump that bass. Never saw his band play though. Saw the Dead twenty times.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Fellow Deadhead and Phishhead here not to mention a few other jam bands:thumb:


I knew I liked you. Now I know why.







I've never seen Phish, but I have a ton of their live albums they put out. Good band. Gumbo/Stash/Bouncin'/Chalkdust would be my faves.


----------



## BlazinJoker

You got my vote: crimson on white, my mom saw it and loved the crimson blade on white also







loving the responsiveness of this thread most others take forever.


----------



## cpachris

Got the rest of my radiators back from the powder shop. Thought I'd share a few more pictures documenting the process:

Here is the outside of my local powder shop. Its in an industrial warehouse, and its hot as all get out in there.



I took them my Black-Ice SR1 480 radiators, instructions on which brand/color powder to use, and let them at it:



First step is to put them in sand blaster to get off any paint finish that is already on the radiators. This is the sand blasting machine:



Operator sticks their hands inside those two holes in front of the machine:



And uses the THICK protected gloves inside to hold the object:



While they position it over the sand being blow up from the bottom of the machine:



This machine makes pretty quick work out of stripping off any finish that is on the object:



You can easily tell that its made of brass sides and tubes, and copper fins. This is what unpolished brass looks like!



Then each piece gets hung up on the powder coating rack, and is grounded. The sprayer electrostatically charges the powder material coming out of the sprayer, which causes it to stick/bind to the object being sprayed. These are not my radiators....but you will get the idea:





After this, they heated up the rads to almost 400 degrees for about 15 minutes to cure. When they were done, the rads looked like this:



If you click on the picture above to enlarge it, you can get a good feel for how Hardware Labs makes one side of the radiator with a fairly large built-in shroud. On the side that does not have the inlet/outlet ports, you will see a lot of space between the top of the radiator casing and where the fins are. Nice touch.



They look as great as the first one came out, and they are all exact matches for the inside of my Caselabs case, which is finished in the exact same powder.

Fans should arrive later today, and I'll be busy doing some painting this weekend. Should have some pictures of the fans on the rads, in the case, by early next week.

I'm playing around with a few more ideas on the radiators. This picture shows some molding that I'm considering using around radiator edges. I think it gives them a real finished and professional look. The radiator to the right doesn't have the molding, so you can see the difference. It won't really show with the fans on....but I'll know its there.







Let me know what you think!


----------



## Axis24

Where did you get that moulding????


----------



## GREG MISO

I got my u-Channel molding at Bestbyte.com, I got thirty feet for 15 dollars.









-Greg


----------



## GingerJohn

If you use the moulding make sure it doesn't catch on the fan blades when they are in pull, same thing goes for any gaskets you might use. I know for a fact that the neoprene style gaskets don't work with fans in pull - the blade tips catch on them when the fan is tightened down.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Where did you get that moulding????


The one in the picture is from FrozenCPU and is $1.50 per foot (link to product). I also got some samples from FrozenCPU like this and this, but didn't like these as well. They are plastic and don't take the curves as well as the rubber molding does. If I decide to do it, I may just pick up some at Lowes. I see it there all the time in lots of sizes, and for much less.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GREG MISO*
> 
> I got my u-Channel molding at Bestbyte.com, I got thirty feet for 15 dollars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Greg


Good price. I may check that out. Can you post a picture how you used it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> If you use the moulding make sure it doesn't catch on the fan blades when they are in pull, same thing goes for any gaskets you might use. I know for a fact that the neoprene style gaskets don't work with fans in pull - the blade tips catch on them when the fan is tightened down.


I'll have to watch that. I'm playing with several different gaskets right now, and really like the Phobya 7mm version. I'll power up some fans and see if they touch.


----------



## GREG MISO

I ended up useing my u-channel for a window and som cutouts i mad in my case.


----------



## 3930K

'llo!

Lovin' your build. Overkill, and I love it.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> You got my vote: crimson on white, my mom saw it and loved the crimson blade on white also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> loving the responsiveness of this thread most others take forever.


Yeah....the OCN'ers here are awesome. Love all the feedback. And one more vote for crimson on white. Thanks Joker!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 'llo!
> Lovin' your build. Overkill, and I love it.


Thanks 3930K!


----------



## cpachris

Fans are here! Me and the FedEx guy are close at this point.









I've got some pictures of them, but first here is the final vote tally on fan color combinations:

Crimson blades on white frame - 12
White blades on crimson frame - 2
Crimson blades on crimson frame - 1
Black blades on white frame - 1
Black blades on crimson frame - 1

Crimson on white is what I'll do! I do truly appreciate everyone taking a look at the color combos with me. Now on to the FrozenCPU package:

Came in two boxes




42x Noiseblocker M12-S2 Fans




And these 4x little baby Noiseblocker fans. Cute as can be! Saw them over in asg's build log in this post, and just thought they looked sharp. The rating on these are less than 4 CFM. Ha! They won't move a lot of air, but I just think they are so darn cute! Make sure and check out what asg did with them.



and 4x 140mm Noiseblocker Black Silent Pro's



and one more Black-Ice SR1 radiator. This one is a 280, and will go in the rear of the pedestal. I love this shot. Make sure and click for larger view.



Well.....I've got some fans to paint! I'll document progress over the weekend, and I also want some help selecting fittings. I've got a handful that I will show you in some pictures tomorrow.


----------



## Citra

50 fans.


----------



## bruflot

50 fans!?!

Seriously, I'm running a single push fan on my H80, and I still think its noisy o.o

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> 50 fans!?!
> Seriously, I'm running a single push fan on my H80, and I still think its noisy o.o
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


Banned for not getting a new fan.


----------



## carmas

I can only say


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Banned for not getting a new fan.


You know me far too well


----------



## cpachris

Before I start taking the fans apart to paint, I decided last night to just put them in the box so I can get an idea how I want to do the wiring (length, top or bottom or rads, etc.). But when I started putting everything in, I ran into a hiccup. I'm trying to put a 280 rad in the back of the pedestal. It fits fine by itself.....but not when the 480 mounting brackets are installed. It's short of space by just less than 1/2 inch. Look at the picture below. Do you see how the bracket bends inward (to the left of my thumb)?



Well the 280 rad in the back has to fit between the two brackets where they are bent inward, and I need another 1/2 inch. You can probably see exactly what I'm talking about in these shots:





I've emailed Jim at CaseLabs with some pictures and ideas on a slightly revised 480 mounting bracket that would leave enough room for the 280 in the back. We will see if he's willing to tackle this one for me. In the meantime, I CAN put the 280 on the outside back of the pedestal, like so:




This solution would still require me to drill some holes for the tubing to pass through to the inside of the box. Not really what I'm wanting to do.

I'll keep you posted if I hear back from Jim. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions for making the rad fit? Has anyone else tried to put 3 rads in the pedestal yet?


----------



## bruflot

Can't you cut off the little piece near the radiator?
And no! Never! I'm not giving you permission to cut holes for the tubing!


----------



## theseekeroffun

Now you know why I mounted mine where I did.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Can't you cut off the little piece near the radiator?
> And no! Never! I'm not giving you permission to cut holes for the tubing!


Ha! Believe me, I don't want to cut holes if I don't have to. Will look much cleaner if all rads are INSIDE the box.

But if you're talking about cutting the mounting bracket....the rad is actually taller than the mounting bracket, so the bracket would have to be cut from top to bottom, severing it from the end that attaches to the pedestal.


----------



## Big Elf

I was thinking about putting a rad on the back of mine but also found it wouldn't fit. I was reluctant to do any cutting so decided against it thinking that 3 quad rads should be enough anyway.

After saying that I've found I can fit one of my spare SR1 240's in the front below the fan controllers/DVD/temp readouts and mount it onto the spare fan housing brackets I have fitted. I'm trying to decide whether it's worth bothering as it'll alter the tubing layout and probably not look as neat as it does.


----------



## Quest99

I hope you come up with something.....I am all in for this build being ultra CLEAN.









Are you worried a little bit about how the air will be circulating or turbulence from that extra 280? Maybe it won't affect the air flow as much since you are using slow rpm fans and SR1.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Now you know why I mounted mine where I did.


You had one in the front on the flex bay side, right? I've got plans for that space already.







Need to fit this one in the pedestal if at all possible.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I was thinking about putting a rad on the back of mine but also found it wouldn't fit. I was reluctant to do any cutting so decided against it thinking that 3 quad rads should be enough anyway.
> After saying that I've found I can fit one of my spare SR1 240's in the front below the fan controllers/DVD/temp readouts and mount it onto the spare fan housing brackets I have fitted. I'm trying to decide whether it's worth bothering as it'll alter the tubing layout and probably not look as neat as it does.


It's never enough!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> I hope you come up with something.....I am all in for this build being ultra CLEAN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you worried a little bit about how the air will be circulating or turbulence from that extra 280? Maybe it won't affect the air flow as much since you are using slow rpm fans and SR1.


I don't think it should create any new turbulence by having the rad there on the back. I'll have the fans exhausting air out of the case in the back, and I would have done that even if I wasn't trying to stick an extra radiator there. I'll probably change my mind several times before I'm done....but my plan right now was to have fresh air coming IN both sides of the pedestal toward the middle, and then exhausting out the back. I'll use the space between the rads for some of the AquaComputer PowerAdjusts, so that they are being actively cooled by the air flow.

ninja spelling edit......


----------



## cpachris

Question for any Aquaero owners out there using the PA2's. I'd like to power up 8 fans on the PA2. Based on the real low 0.72 watts the NB M12-S2's pull, it doesn't seem like I would be even close to maxing the wattage on the PA with 8 fans attached. But I remember reading in someone's thread about how he was testing his PA2, and found that when he was undervolting even 3 of his fans, that the PA2's thermal protection kicked in and the fans would spin at 100% until the PA2 cooled back down. But I can't find that thread again. Anyone know where that thread is, or does anyone have any experience with the PA2 and multiple fans being undervolted?


----------



## asg

I have 8 of the Noiseblocker fans hooked to one PA. No Aquaero to test it yet.

Can you reverse the radiator brackets? Try mount them facing the other way. You may need to mount the brackets outside the fans.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> I have 8 of the Noiseblocker fans hooked to one PA. No Aquaero to test it yet.
> Can you reverse the radiator brackets? Try mount them facing the other way. You may need to mount the brackets outside the fans.


I guess we will both find out if 8 causes the thermal protection to kick in. I'm going to plan for 8, but make sure I have some air flow on the PA.

I tried the mounting brackets the other way, and it made the brackets extend too far out the sides of the pedestal to get the side panels back on the pedestal, even if the fans were on the inside of the brackets.

Did you ever find out if your Aquaero got shipped when mine did?


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Question for any Aquaero owners out there using the PA2's. I'd like to power up 8 fans on the PA2. Based on the real low 0.72 watts the NB M12-S2's pull, it doesn't seem like I would be even close to maxing the wattage on the PA with 8 fans attached. But I remember reading in someone's thread about how he was testing his PA2, and found that when he was undervolting even 3 of his fans, that the PA2's thermal protection kicked in and the fans would spin at 100% until the PA2 cooled back down. But I can't find that thread again. Anyone know where that thread is, or does anyone have any experience with the PA2 and multiple fans being undervolted?


Chris,

The PA 2's can handle 25 watts easily and they peak at 48 watts. The only reason I can think of, regarding your question, is that his Aquaero was not H20 cooled. Phatboy is your best bet when it comes to PA2 and Aquaero questions, or Shoggy of course. I am playing with my system as I type and I have no problems with my PA or my Aquaeros's.

Rocky


----------



## cpachris

Update on my progress for the night. I now have a real good handle on how to disassemble a Noiseblocker fan.







Here is what I did.

First put something interesting on TV, and get all your fan boxes close to you. I chose HBO's "Girls" because it was playing about 10 episodes back-to-back. Thought it would give me a chance to see if I like the series. I don't . But that's another story. Take your box and open it up.



First thing you want to do is test the fan to make sure it works. I used my "ghetto PSU" made out of my 9-volt battery to plug them in and test. Quick and easy.



Happy to say that all 42 of my M12-S2's were in working order. Now.....lets start tearing them down. There are a few goodies in the box that you will want to start piles of. First, I took out the rubber gaskets that come with the fan. You won't want to use these until you are ready to install on a rad. Put them in a pile for now:



Do the same with the useless screws that come with the fan. If you are putting these on a rad, you won't need these at all:



There is also a case badge in every box. So......if someone was dying for a Noiseblocker case badge....I could probably make you a good deal on one. or 42 or them.











Ok. Done with the fluff. Now for the real work. You see that little black plastic clip that I'm pointing to? Take that off and start a pile of them.



Now lets remove the blades from the frame. With these Noiseblockers, there are no clips or anything that you have to remove first. Just get your fingers wrapped around the frame, and put both thumbs on the blade hub and push. It will pop right off. This picture only shows one hand on the fan.....but its because the other hand is holding a camera.





Now lets take the sticker off the fan blades. Get your exacto knife and gently peel one of the edges up. If you catch it clean, the whole sticker will lift off with almost no residue left. Just go slowly. Oh....and if you don't catch one clean and it leaves a lot of residue.......DON'T try and clean it!!!!!!! I've tried everything from alochol to acetone to soap, and all it does is get worse when you start burring it around. You need to either live with it, or scrape with your exacto knife.





Now......we need to get that sticker off the frame. I wasn't as careful with this one since I knew I would be covering this spot with my own custom vinyl stickers.



There is a second sticker underneath the first, and it holds a small magnet n place. Leave this one alone.



Now some of you may not need this next step, but I do. I like to use some Liquid Tape on the wire connections for the fan.



Nothing but a little drop of solder is holding these wires into place. And when I sleeve, I sometimes pull harder than I should. So, this just gives me a little extra insurance that the wire doesn't pop off the fan.



I do it on the front as well as the back:



Lastly, you will want to remove the rubber corners from the fans. One of the four corners is different than the other three because its shaped for a little cut-out to help facilitate wire management. I keep these in a separate pile from the others, because it is a royal pain to have to check each corner out and look for these when you put them back on.





Now take a big sip of your glass of cabernet.....



Now.....rinse and repeat 42 times, and you'll have something like this:





I'm gonna be fallin' asleep in church tomorrow, but I'm done with this disassembly work. Tomorrow I will finish the paint prep (tape off the sensitive stuff) and start painting. More tomorrow!


----------



## carmas

So, let me see if I got it right. The take-home message is: " Have a lot of Cabernet (or similar booze) ready if you want disassemble your fans". I will definitely keep this in mind. And all the other steps too, of course


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> The take-home message is: " Have a lot of Cabernet (or similar booze) ready if you want disassemble your fans".


Yep. That's the gist of it.


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of fan progress so far today.

Get your painter's tape and put one strip down making sure it covers the outside edges of the hub.



Unless you have some pretty wide tape, it probably won't cover the entire hub. Seal it down good around the edges with your fingernail.



Put on a second piece of tape to cover the remaining edges, and seal tightly with your fingernail.



Now take your exacto knife, and carefully cut around the OUTSIDE edges of the fan hub. You do NOT want to get paint on the inside of this hub. So stick to the outside of the hub.



Peel off excess tape you just cut and examine to make sure you have it sealed up good.



Rinse and repeat 42 times, and this is what you have. More later today!


----------



## bruflot

Hmm, I'm 15 years old. Are you suggesting an underage boy to drink cabernet?

Just joking, nice build though! Can't wait to see how it looks when it's done!


----------



## Big Elf

Just a bit curious but isn't the fan blade held on by a circlip and how do you get them back on so they're fixed in place?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Hmm, I'm 15 years old. Are you suggesting an underage boy to drink cabernet?
> Just joking, nice build though! Can't wait to see how it looks when it's done!


Substitute wine for soda, and enjoy. Thanks bruflot!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Just a bit curious but isn't the fan blade held on by a circlip and how do you get them back on so they're fixed in place?


No...the Noiseblocker multi-frame series has no clip. I bought about 11 different types of fans for review, and most of them were like this one where you can push on/off the fan blades from the motor. You will hear it click in and out of place. Sure makes it easier than the ones with the clips (like the GT's).


----------



## theseekeroffun

Now take a big sip of your glass of cabernet.....


That is not a Cabernet glass....you should be deported!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Now take a big sip of your glass of cabernet.....
> 
> That is not a Cabernet glass....you should be deported!


I can't argue with you there.







But I like small handsize glasses if I'm workin' while I imbibe. I tend to break my good glasses when I'm focusing on them. Promise you a proper shot later!


----------



## asg

No news on my Aquaero yet.

I may end up taking my fans apart now too... That looked way to easy.

Problem is, the countless hours of paint prep and painting involved in painting that many fans.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> No news on my Aquaero yet.
> I may end up taking my fans apart now too... That looked way to easy.
> Problem is, the countless hours of paint prep and painting involved in painting that many fans.


My Aquaero has left Germany, and is somewhere over the Atlantic right now. Has not yet arrived in the states.

I would encourage you to dig in and take them apart. Its one of the many reasons I went with the Noiseblocker's....very easy to mod. I think I remember you have the exact same fan, right? Some of the taping can get a little boring, but I kind of like the liquid tape and painting. You do have to be patient though. Lots of light dustings of paint. I'm on coat 5 for the frames right now, and I'm 2 coats of primer and 1 coat of paint into the blades at the moment. Plan to finish tonight. I just keep setting the alarm, and every 30 minutes I pause the TV and head outside for another quick dusting of paint.


----------



## Dezixn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


I clicked on this thread and ended up on this page, started scrolling through the pictures, thinking it's a kinda cool project.

Then I get to these two pictures, realize those are all fans, and let out a decently loud combination swear word.

I can't be the only one.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dezixn*
> 
> I clicked on this thread and ended up on this page, started scrolling through the pictures, thinking it's a kinda cool project.
> Then I get to these two pictures, realize those are all fans, and let out a decently loud combination swear word.
> I can't be the only one.


Once your done swearing....buckle up and enjoy the ride! This is going to be a fun build. Will have some fan painting pics tomorrow. Quite a chore with that many fans. Will end up spanning two days.


----------



## txtrkandy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dezixn*
> 
> Then I get to these two pictures, realize those are all fans, and let out a decently loud combination swear word.
> I can't be the only one.


He wasn't







, and I dropped my Driod Bionic I was texting on, more amazing Cpachris! Also, can you tell me what an Aquaero is?? It has something to do with fans but I'm not sure what, never heard of one


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtrkandy*
> 
> He wasn't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and I dropped my Driod Bionic I was texting on, more amazing Cpachris! Also, can you tell me what an Aquaero is?? It has something to do with fans but I'm not sure what, never heard of one


If it broke...get you a Galaxy Nexus.







Love mine. But thinking about getting one of those new sammy galaxy III's.

If a fan controller and a CPU got together and had a baby.....it would be an aquaero. Intelligent control of your fans/pumps/lighting....based on sensor input values. So...if computer is running cool, it could spin your fans down automatically. Computer starts getting hot....it spins them faster and/or turns your pumps up. Very cool stuff. Can't wait to play with it.


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of fan progress for today.

First I spent a couple of hours finishing the taping process. For the frames, the important part is to protect the hole that the fan blade spindle slides into. You don't want paint down there. You'll notice I didn't bother to protect any of the wires or sleeving, since I will be redoing all of this anway:



I made a quick little homemade paint booth out of a box for a TV I bought recently. I stuck some PVC pipe through the sides, and it made a nice little rack to hang the frames from. As mentioned previously, I just used the sleeved wire to hang them with, since I'll be redoing all of this anyway.




When painting you want to do just light dusting of paint to make a very thin layer of paint, let it dry about 30 minutes or so, and then do it again. Here is what they looked like after the first coat:




After two coats:




After three coats:




After four coats:




After five coats:




After six coats:




At this point they were looking pretty good. After each coat, I would also rotate the poles in the paintbooth so that the other side was facing forward, to help ensure I was getting all sides evenly. I think its also important to remember that you do not want to try and treat spots. That almost never comes out good. Do lots of thin coats over the entire fan. Do not get up close and try to pinpoint a certain area. You will overpaint it and it will run. I did one final coat for a total of 7, but it was dark so I don't have a final picture of it out in the paintbooth.

Now while the frames were drying between coats, I was busy working on the fan blades. Here was my setup for the fan blades:



For the blades, I wasn't 100% happy with the last paint testing I had done, with regards to how well it matched the computer case I have. It was darn good, but not perfect. But if you are limited to just the "plastic" paints, there is not as big of a color selection as you get with all the other normal spray paints. So.....what I ended up doing is using a plastic primer from Valspar first. I put two light coats of it on both sides of the fans. Its clear...but creates a surface that will allow regular paint to bond to the plastic. That opened up some more colors for me. What I ended up being the happiest with in my pre-testing, was to create a base coat using Rust-O-Leum "cabernet", and then topcoating it with Rust-O-Leum "crimson red". The cabernet by itself had too much purple in it, and the crimson red by itself didn't have enough purple in it. The two together are perfection for what I'm trying to do. I ended up doing 3 light coats of the cabernet, and then 2 light coats of the crimson red.

So this is what the blades looked like after the first coat of cabernet:




After two coats of the cabernet:




Lost my sunlight so I don't have pictures of what these looked like after each of the remaining coats, but I am absolutely thrilled with how they came out. They are perfect color for me. Here is a shot of everything after I brought it back inside for the night:



So at this point I have all of the fan blades done, and 1/2 of the frames. Tomorow I plan on finishing the frames, and then doing all of the tape removal. Then I'll start on fan headers and sleeving. I'm planning on shortening all of the fan headers to 3 or 4 inches, and sleeving them in white MDPC-X. Then I'm going to make a custom fan harness with male connectors to minimize the wiring. I'll have more tomorrow!


----------



## Agshlee

--


----------



## Quest99

Again with the cabernet, must everything revolve around wine?









Ouf...that is a lot of work! Great job!







How many spray cans did you use?


----------



## FannBlade

Very Very nice. Fans lookin good.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agshlee*
> 
> Looking very interesting! Sub'd


Thanks for coming along for the ride, Agshlee!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Again with the cabernet, must everything revolve around wine?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ouf...that is a lot of work! Great job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many spray cans did you use?


Good question...but I'm not done with frames yet. For the first 20 frames, It took about 4 cans of spray paint. For the entire batch of fan blades, I used about 3/4 can of primer, 2 cans of "cabernet", and 1 can of "crimson red".

And you probably won't believe me, but the name of another color from rust-o-leum that I was testing with was....wait for it....MERLOT!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> Very Very nice. Fans lookin good.


Thanks FannBlade!

I'll have a progress update for today with pictures shortly.


----------



## cpachris

Picture progress so far for today.

I've setup the remaining 20 or so fan frames in my homemade paint booth, and I'm on coat 2 right now. Will be done by the end of the day. While that is going on, I've started another assembly line for a few more tasks on the fan frames that were painted yesterday. Here is what I'm doing to each of them:

First I'm taking each fan frame, and inspecting closely for any missed spots or thin spots. For those that need a touch-up, they will go back out in the paintbooth:



For the frames that were in good shape, I go ahead and remove the protective painters tape:



Then I'm measuring 3 inches of wire from the frame, and cutting it:



I want all of my fans to have short headers on them, and then I will make a custom harness for them and run a multi-tailed power line where I need it to go.



Next, I'm taking an exacto knife and splitting the heatshrink that was holding the old sleeve on:





Next, I'm getting rid of the tab that holds the wires next to the frame. See that notch on the top right side of the frame?



I"m planning on having sleeve come down the side of the frame, and this notched opening is not big enough for the sleeved wires. I'm simply getting rid of it all together, and will most likely use a drop of super glue to keep the sleeve next to the frame.



And finally, I'm putting back on 3 of the rubber corners. I don't want the 4th rubber corner on until I'm done with the wiring and sleeving.



Now....rinse and repeat.....in between coats of paint on the remaining frames. More to come later!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Picture progress so far for today.
> I've setup the remaining 20 or so fan frames in my homemade paint booth, and I'm on coat 2 right now. Will be done by the end of the day. While that is going on, I've started another assembly line for a few more tasks on the fan frames that were painted yesterday. Here is what I'm doing to each of them:
> First I'm taking each fan frame, and inspecting closely for any missed spots or thin spots. For those that need a touch-up, they will go back out in the paintbooth:
> ~snip~
> Now....rinse and repeat.....in between coats of paint on the remaining frames. More to come later!


All that tedious work, You are crazy I hope you know that.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> .......You are crazy I hope you know that.


Ya know...I've heard that before.


----------



## cpachris

(in my best Men at Work imitation voice)...."Who can it be knocking at my door?" Well, it was the postman needing a signature for a registered package. Something from Germany. Whatever could it be?



Hmmmmm.....if you didn't pick it up from the first shot, this will probably give it away.



I guess the order got split into two parts. This one contains just the crimp pins and more cable clamps. Probably will get the sleeve tomorrow.


----------



## cpachris

Finished painting all of the 120mm fans, and did all of the first round of reassembly. So I've gone from this:



to this.....



to this....



to this!



I'll start crimping pins on wires tonight. More pictures later.


----------



## nathanak21

Lookin good!


----------



## Quest99

"Break out the wine bottles. These came out perfect!"


----------



## Axis24




----------



## cpachris

Tonight's progress. I tried, but just couldn't seem to take a picture WHILE holding the stripper or crimper. So I have no action shots....but I'll show you one of the finished products, and describe the steps I'm doing to each one to get there. I'm working assembly line style again. I like to take a small number of tasks and work my way down the line of fans, doing just those tasks for each one. Here is what I'm doing tonight to each fan:

1. Strip about 3mm of insulation of the end of each of the 3 fan wires
2. Crimp a new pin onto the end of each wire
3. Using white electrical tape to wrap the wires together. This will ensure that NO color shows through the white sleeve that will go on.
4. Put in the 4th corner rubber piece. Decided I really did need it in there before I get the sleeve on.

Here is a picture of what one of the fans looks like after these four steps:



I should be able to finish these steps for all 42 fans tonight. That means tomorrow I should be able to start with the sleeve, heatshrink and connector.


----------



## Jayek

Absolutely amazing work man.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanak21*
> 
> Lookin good!


Thanks nathanak21! I'm having fun.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> "Break out the wine bottles. These came out perfect!"


It always comes back to wine, doesn't it? I appreciate it Quest.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*










Back at ya my friend. And quit teasing us with the lighting.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayek*
> 
> Absolutely amazing work man.


Thanks Jayek! I stay up way too late working on it, but sometimes its just hard to stop.


----------



## PeteJM

Mother of GOD Thats a lot of fans! How much in total did they all cost you!?!?!?


----------



## FannBlade

You may need some I beams on the case sides to keep case from imploding or exploding depending on fan orientation.
Good thing this is OCN or I would mention the overkill!

Nice work...I love the "overkill"!


----------



## BlazinJoker

@PeteJM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Now that's a big bunch of fans......


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeteJM*
> 
> Mother of GOD Thats a lot of fans! How much in total did they all cost you!?!?!?


They were a pretty penny. A REAL pretty penny.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> You may need some I beams on the case sides to keep case from imploding or exploding depending on fan orientation.
> Good thing this is OCN or I would mention the overkill!
> Nice work...I love the "overkill"!


Anything less, is not enough.


----------



## cpachris

Quick update from last night's progress. I couldn't make it through all of the fans last night. The stripping/crimping/taping process took longer than I thought. But I got up this morning and made it through the remainder of the fans, so now they have all been through this process. Ready for sleeving/heatshrink/connectors now! Updates later.


----------



## bruflot

You spent over $1K on fans?








I still don't get it.. I have a single CM fan in my case, and I still think that's noisy! How on earth can you live with 50 fans!?!
Pretty sure you'll have to bolt your case to the floor, otherwise it'll fly away


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> You spent over $1K on fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still don't get it.. I have a single CM fan in my case, and I still think that's noisy! How on earth can you live with 50 fans!?!
> Pretty sure you'll have to bolt your case to the floor, otherwise it'll fly away


I've never owned a Cooler Master fan, but all I can tell you is that these Noiseblocker M12-S2's are absolutely silent when undervolted, and incredibly quiet at full speed. And when I say silent, I don't mean pretty quiet, or I can barely hear that.....I mean silent. You would have to put your ear about an inch away from the fan to even tell it was on if you didn't see it spinning. I'll do a video once there are all powered up, and I'll drop a pin or something, so you can see how silent these things are.


----------



## Electrocutor

I'm trying to find a single thing I dislike about this build... but still can't find anything.

Please tell me that this box gets to have some living room time hooked up to the big screen and B&W surround after it's up and running.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'm trying to find a single thing I dislike about this build... but still can't find anything.
> Please tell me that this box gets to have some living room time hooked up to the big screen and B&W surround after it's up and running.


Thanks Electrocutor! Good eyes, ....picking up the speaker brand. Those yellow cones give them away. And the downstairs TV is nice at 55 inches. But the upstairs TV is amazing....at 70 inches.



In the middle of a media room redo upstairs, so its not done. But this is also where I setup my "faux" studio. I can dismantle it and put it in the closet in less than 5 minutes. Its pretty sweet. Pics below:




You'll also notice my fondness for crimson extends outside of this computer build, as evidenced by the walls and entertainment console. And the blanket.


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've never owned a Cooler Master fan, but all I can tell you is that these Noiseblocker M12-S2's are absolutely silent when undervolted, and incredibly quiet at full speed. And when I say silent, I don't mean pretty quiet, or I can barely hear that.....I mean silent. You would have to put your ear about an inch away from the fan to even tell it was on if you didn't see it spinning. I'll do a video once there are all powered up, and I'll drop a pin or something, so you can see how silent these things are.


Hmm, perhaps I should invest in a few "quality" fans.

http://techbay.no/product.html/noiseblocker-vifte-multiframe-m12-s2-120x25

These are the ones you have, right? (You might want to use google translate)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Hmm, perhaps I should invest in a few "quality" fans.
> http://techbay.no/product.html/noiseblocker-vifte-multiframe-m12-s2-120x25
> These are the ones you have, right? (You might want to use google translate)


ja.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks Electrocutor! Good eyes, ....picking up the speaker brand. Those yellow cones give them away. And the downstairs TV is nice at 55 inches. But the upstairs TV is amazing....at 70 inches.
> 
> In the middle of a media room redo upstairs, so its not done. But this is also where I setup my "faux" studio. I can dismantle it and put it in the closet in less than 5 minutes. Its pretty sweet. Pics below:
> 
> You'll also notice my fondness for crimson extends outside of this computer build, as evidenced by the walls and entertainment console. And the blanket.


They look like the 700 series if my eyes don't deceive me. I went with the new 600 series myself, as my budget didn't quite allow the CM, 700, or 800 series. 804D's are on the 'someday' list. You've got quite the setup going there. As far your crimson room, I have to say the wall pattern takes the cake: I dare you to try that with powder paint.


----------



## cpachris

Here are some pics of the steps I"m going through for this assembly line run. I set the camera on a tripod and used a remote trigger to take the picture. Not all completely in focus, but it lets me get both hands in the picture.

I'm starting with the crimped, taped, fan frame from the previous assembly line:



First I inspect where the wires run up into the motor, and use an exacto knife to clear any extra liquid tape away so that I can be sure and push the sleeve all the way down to the base:



Then I snip off 4.75 inches of sleeve. I don't need to measure each fan wire, since I cut them all the same length in previous assembly line. I'm going with white MDPC-X for the fans. I'll use some color on some of the other wiring.



Then I warm up the ends and taper the sleeve so it doesn't spread to big on me. Need it slim to fit down tight against the base.



Then I slide/inch the sleeve onto the wires. Sometimes you have to be careful when sliding it over the pins, to make sure you don't catch the sleeve and pull it.



Then I'm sliding a piece of the precut MDPC heatshrink all the way down to the base. I'm trying to make sure that once the stickers are on the fan, that there will be no wires still exposed.



Next I grab my heat gun and shink that thing up. NO MAKING FUN OF MY PURPLE HEAT GUN! I got this thing for $3 during a Hobby Lobby clearance sale. I think they usually sell it as a scrapbooking tool. But hey....it does the job. And by the way, I would highly recommend using a heatgun instead of a lighter when you are working with white heatshrink. It is so easy to char the heatshrink and discolor it. I use a lighter only on the sleeve ends to help taper them, since I know these will be covered with heatshrink. I would always use a heat gun with white heatshrink.



Next I put the connector on the fan pins. I'm going with white, instead of the black that came with the fans. Matches the heatshrink real well.



Next I cut a piece of the SATA shrink, and then slide it over the fan connector:



Now grab your super masculine heat gun and shrink that bad boy up!



That's it for this assembly line, so rinse and repeat 42 times. Here is what it looks like at this point:



It might take me a day to get through all of these. I'm on fan 12 right now. After I get done with these steps, I need to superglue the sleeve to the frame (I'm not going to use the black clips that came with the frame), put on a custom vinyl sticker, and put back on the fan blades. Then I'll be done! More later.....


----------



## TheBadBull

That looks great!

And that heat gun looks badass.


----------



## Quest99

HaHa.....nice heat gun....you sure that is not PINK?









Very nice sleeving btw.









B&W I can tell a mile away.....I cannot make out the amps powering them....


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> They look like the 700 series if my eyes don't deceive me. I went with the new 600 series myself, as my budget didn't quite allow the CM, 700, or 800 series. 804D's are on the 'someday' list.


You know your speakers. 703's downstair, and CM9's upstairs. I bought the 703's probably 10 years ago, and they don't make the line anymore....but honestly, I think they sound better than the CM9's. Yes...we can both dream about those 804D's. I auditioned a pair of 804D's in person at our local hifi store years ago, and was blown away. I asked how much they were....and was blown away again. Will have to save those for another day.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> As far your crimson room, I have to say the wall pattern takes the cake: I dare you to try that with powder paint.


Oooooooooo. Don't tempt me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> That looks great!
> And that heat gun looks badass.


Thanks. And Thanks. Only a real man can pull off a light purple heat gun.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> HaHa.....nice heat gun....you sure that is not PINK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice sleeving btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B&W I can tell a mile away.....I cannot make out the amps powering them....


Purple was my only choice, but I would have taken a pink for $3 also if available.









Unfortunately, the speakers are currently very underpowered right now. No separate amps. Being powered by the Onkyo receiver....NR3008. When I get some time, I really need to do an evaluation of amps. They can make all the difference in the world. I did splurge on a 15 inch velodyne digital drive sub several years ago....and it is simply amazing.


----------



## TPE-331

Wow Chris, this build is going to be incredible. The amount of thought and work the that is going into it is amazing.







I can see this rig on the front cover of one of the pc magazines for sure.


----------



## Reglar

Great build, just a quick question on the fans and the harness. Since your using the Aquaero 5 for the fans, are you only connecting the rpm cable in the harness to one of the fans? I thought I read that the controller doesn't like getting multiple fan rpm signals on the same header.

I ask from a purely selfish point of view; I plan a similar style fan setup


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Wow Chris, this build is going to be incredible. The amount of thought and work the that is going into it is amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can see this rig on the front cover of one of the pc magazines for sure.


Appreciate the kind words TPE! I'd settle for another OU national championship!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Great build, just a quick question on the fans and the harness. Since your using the Aquaero 5 for the fans, are you only connecting the rpm cable in the harness to one of the fans? I thought I read that the controller doesn't like getting multiple fan rpm signals on the same header.
> I ask from a purely selfish point of view; I plan a similar style fan setup


Thanks Reglar! Yes, that is my understanding also. So I plan to chain 8 fans through a harness to one of the PowerAdjust channels, and only the first fan on the chain (closest to the power unit) will have the RPM wire attached. So from the PowerAdjust, I'll take all 3 wires through the harness for the first fan, but the only continue 2 of the wires through the harness for the remaining 7 fans. That's the plan. If someone thinks this should be done differently, let me know.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Sub'd. All I can say is wow!! Wish I had seen this log earlier. I kind of liked the white blades & crimson frame for the radiators, but the crimson blades & white frame for the case fans. Probably easier to do them all the same anyways.

You really are crazy for doing all this!! I totally approve & glad I get to watch!!!!


----------



## Agshlee

--


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Sub'd. All I can say is wow!! Wish I had seen this log earlier. I kind of liked the white blades & crimson frame for the radiators, but the crimson blades & white frame for the case fans. Probably easier to do them all the same anyways.
> You really are crazy for doing all this!! I totally approve & glad I get to watch!!!!


Thanks for riding along Harvman! Ya know...I may find a way to work in a white on crimson some where. I kind of liked that one too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agshlee*
> 
> Seriously, where do you find the patients to do all of this! I would probably go nuts after doing it once or twice, let alone 42 times! The end result is looking great though - very curious to see what the fans will end up looking like once incorporated into the case.
> Anyway, good luck with the (tedious) work!


Thanks Agshlee! I kind of find it fun. As long as you don't put pressure on yourself on a finish date....just tackle it and have fun with it! I will say that it was a tad frustrating tonight to get through the 33rd fan, with only 9 left to go, and then run out of sata heatshrink. Hope my MDPC-X package comes tomorrow!


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also notice my fondness for crimson extends outside of this computer build, as evidenced by the walls and entertainment console. And the blanket.


That's an awesome blanket !


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> That's an awesome blanket !


Yeah....I really designed the room around that blanket.


----------



## CiBi

impressive work on the fans, and nice house


----------



## asg

I am a big fan of the B&W speakers as well & have them everywhere in my house.

I like your photo setup. Can we get some more details on it.

What kind of lights are you using with the umbrellas?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> impressive work on the fans, and nice house


Thanks CiBi! Fans are almost done!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> I am a big fan of the B&W speakers as well & have them everywhere in my house.
> I like your photo setup. Can we get some more details on it.
> What kind of lights are you using with the umbrellas?


All my "faux" studio equipment is fairly inexpensive. The lighting set is this one from Interfit. Continuous lighting....not flashes or strobes. Uses 500 watt bulbs at 3,200 K. The bulbs don't last a long time, but they are only a few bucks each. The umbrellas pop off, and the stands collapse easily. Got the whole kit on sale for $85.

I don't remember the brand of the larger stands I'm using to hold the backgrounds. It was $99 at my local camera store. I use the white paper roll for most of the product photography. I just pull the paper down either to the floor, or to a little folding table I setup for smaller items. Once it gets too dirty...you just tear off a portion and throw it away. It rolls right back up also, and out of the way. I also have two larger sheets that I can drape over the rod. One white, and one green. I use those for people.

My girlfriend has been patient and accommodating with this hobby, and will pose for me if I buy her dinner.







Here is a recent shot with the white sheet as the background:



If I had it to do over again, ....or next time I upgrade....., I would probably get strobes instead of continuous lighting. The 500 watt bulbs heat up the room quickly. Unless I crank the air conditioner up, it gets too hot to be behind the lights after 10 minutes or so. But...it does make it easier to compose the shot and lighting when you can see in advance what your lighting is doing and move the lights around. Probably best to learn lighting techniques with continuous lighting, and the progress to strobes after you get more comfortable with with what light does.


----------



## cpachris

Ahhhhh...I love to see the mailman. Except this week it has been 'mailgirl', as I guess my normal guy is on vacation. Today she brought me this:



Part 2 of my last order. Lets open her up:



Another family size roll of white sleeving, some more sata sleeving, lots of heatshrink, and some of that new "Shade 19" color that MDPC-X just released.

Here is the obligatory close-up of Nils doodle:



Need to do a collage of these sometime. Have a bunch at this point. Here is a close-up of "Shade 19". I'm not planning on using it, but wanted to compare it to some of the other grey's that they have. Lots of greys/blacks in the MDPC-X color arsenal at this point. Someone could probably do a pretty cool combination with them. This one is darker than the grey or the titanium grey.



And Nils usually throws in a couple of samples to get your creative juices flowing (or to try and move the slow sellers







). Today I got combat green and copper brown:



Now I can work on finishing the fans. Plus, I'm working on some pictures to post of the different fittings I'm considering. Look for that later today. Want some feedback on which of the sample fittings looks best with my color scheme.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ahhhhh...I love to see the mailman. Except this week it has been 'mailgirl', as I guess my normal guy is on vacation. Today she brought me this:
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 of my last order. Lets open her up:
> 
> 
> 
> Another family size roll of white sleeving, some more sata sleeving, lots of heatshrink, and some of that new "Shade 19" color that MDPC-X just released.
> 
> Here is the obligatory close-up of Nils doodle:
> 
> 
> 
> Need to do a collage of these sometime. Have a bunch at this point. Here is a close-up of "Shade 19". I'm not planning on using it, but wanted to compare it to some of the other grey's that they have. Lots of greys/blacks in the MDPC-X color arsenal at this point. Someone could probably do a pretty cool combination with them. This one is darker than the grey or the titanium grey.
> 
> 
> 
> And Nils usually throws in a couple of samples to get your creative juices flowing (or to try and move the slow sellers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Today I got combat green and copper brown:
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can work on finishing the fans. Plus, I'm working on some pictures to post of the different fittings I'm considering. Look for that later today. Want some feedback on which of the sample fittings looks best with my color scheme.


Could you put Shade19 next to a RoG mobo please?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Could you put Shade19 next to a RoG mobo please?


How about this. Don't own a RoG or even have an extra board not in a box right now. But...I can put it next to some colors you are probably familiar with, to give you a better idea what it looks like. Here it is next to some other MDPC-X you may have already. From bottom up, its Black, Titanium Grey, Shade 19, Grey. I only had one small sample strand of Grey, which is on top.



Or...here is a more artistic shot, with the aperture wide open (2.8) to create a very narrow depth of field, which blurs everything outside of this field.



If I had to give it a name....I'd call it Charcoal.


----------



## Quest99

I like the new color! May I ask how much MDPC sleeving cost? I have the hardest time entering the website... I registered, but never got a confirmation email....


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Could you put Shade19 next to a RoG mobo please?
> 
> 
> 
> How about this. Don't own a RoG or even have an extra board not in a box right now. But...I can put it next to some colors you are probably familiar with, to give you a better idea what it looks like. Here it is next to some other MDPC-X you may have already. From bottom up, its Black, Titanium Grey, Shade 19, Grey. I only had one small sample strand of Grey, which is on top.
> 
> 
> 
> Or...here is a more artistic shot, with the aperture wide open (2.8) to create a very narrow depth of field, which blurs everything outside of this field.
> 
> 
> 
> If I had to give it a name....I'd call it Charcoal.
Click to expand...

Thanks!! rep+

Was trying to compare it to see if it matched with the almost black on HSses.

BTW, I want to get into photography VERY cheaply; I love taking apart stuff (I actually just took apart the OC Key, loved one detail on it SO much) but my cheap camera is not up to the task. It doesn't let me edit settings further than ISO









So I want something to be able to do that sort of thing.

Any suggestions?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> I like the new color! May I ask how much MDPC sleeving cost? I have the hardest time entering the website... I registered, but never got a confirmation email....


Not a simple answer. Black is cheaper than some of the other colors, and there are also large packs which are cheaper than small packs. You also pay in euros, so it can fluctuate daily depending on the conversion rate. And since in the states we are used to buying it "by the foot", we also have to translate meters to feet, in order to compare pricing.

Don't hold me to this, but based on recent conversion rates, after you do the euros per meter, to $ per foot conversion, and include the VAT, you end paying about 35 to 40 cents per foot, depending on color, when you buy in smaller quantities. And it can get much cheaper if you buy large quantities, although this is not available for all colors. That's not bad considering there are a lot of places here that sell inferior sleeving for 50 to 60 cents a foot.

And I agree, its kind of a trouble to actually order from them. Even after you get registered, you have to time your purchase for next time the shop is open. I've been thinking about doing some bulk purchases of black and white, and offering them here on OCN for those that don't want to mess with getting registered with MDPC or don't want to wait on an overseas package.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> BTW, I want to get into photography VERY cheaply; I love taking apart stuff (I actually just took apart the OC Key, loved one detail on it SO much) but my cheap camera is not up to the task. It doesn't let me edit settings further than ISO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I want something to be able to do that sort of thing.
> Any suggestions?


Photography is addicting. You need a DSLR, but I would suggest getting the cheapest one you can, and put most of your money into glass. You can't go wrong with even the cheapest Canon or Nikon. I went with Canon because they have a larger, and IMHO better, selection of lenses. But even their cheapest DSLR will let you adjust and play to your hearts content with creative settings. Look into the Rebel series for Canon (their least expensive DSLR line)


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> BTW, I want to get into photography VERY cheaply; I love taking apart stuff (I actually just took apart the OC Key, loved one detail on it SO much) but my cheap camera is not up to the task. It doesn't let me edit settings further than ISO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I want something to be able to do that sort of thing.
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> Photography is addicting. You need a DSLR, but I would suggest getting the cheapest one you can, and put most of your money into glass. You can't go wrong with even the cheapest Canon or Nikon. I went with Canon because they have a larger, and IMHO better, selection of lenses. But even their cheapest DSLR will let you adjust and play to your hearts content with creative settings. Look into the Rebel series for Canon (their least expensive DSLR line)
Click to expand...

Thanks, will do.


----------



## General121

SUBBED!!!
This rig looks SO GOOD LOL.
Sitting here at work browsing, on page 3, waiting to be picked up (in only 16 :X)

Youve got money! I only need a SSD and a 680! Lol







And a good gaming mouse + keyboard...using stock $20 crap.


----------



## cpachris

Fittings pictures! I would like some opinions on which fitting you think would go best with my build. I've collected one compression fitting from several manufactures and several different finishes. I've lined up some pictures for review. I greatly appreciated all the voting on the fan color combinations, and want your help on choosing the fittings. Here is a family shot first. From left to right we have:

1. PrimoChill - Black Ghost
2. Bitspower - Matte Black
3. AlphaCool - Copper
4. Bitspower - Black Sparkle
5. Bitspower - Carbon Black
6. XSPC - Black Chrome Low Profile
7. Bitspower - Deep Red
8. Bitspower - Shining Silver



Now here is a close-up of each one!

1. PrimoChill - Black Ghost


2. Bitspower - Matte Black


3. AlphaCool - Copper


4. Bitspower - Black Sparkle


5. Bitspower - Carbon Black


6. XSPC - Black Chrome Low Profile


7. Bitspower - Deep Red


8. Bitspower - Shining Silver


Ok. Now here is a picture of each, while sitting on one of my white radiators, with a little glimpse of one of the fans, and some of the case, to get a feel for how the colors look.

1. PrimoChill - Black Ghost


2. Bitspower - Matte Black


3. AlphaCool - Copper


4. Bitspower - Black Sparkle


5. Bitspower - Carbon Black


6. XSPC - Black Chrome Low Profile


7. Bitspower - Deep Red


8. Bitspower - Shining Silver


And finally here is a shot of all of them on a rad with the case color and fan. Same order:


I want your help! This decision may impact some other things. I might decide to make the fan screws match what I do with fittings. Some other ideas for matching components also. Vote for the one that you think looks best with the color scheme I'm using. Remember you can click on any of the pictures and it will load a nice big one for you. Vote either by number or name:

1. PrimoChill - Black Ghost
2. Bitspower - Matte Black
3. AlphaCool - Copper
4. Bitspower - Black Sparkle
5. Bitspower - Carbon Black
6. XSPC - Black Chrome Low Profile
7. Bitspower - Deep Red
8. Bitspower - Shining Silver

Thanks in advance for your help, OCN!


----------



## bruflot

Hmm.. What color will you use for the tubes?
The deep red ones would look awesome with a black tubing, and the carbon black ones would look awesome with a red tubing


----------



## barkinos98

the matte black is the classiest, and gets my vote, but its so common now that makes me think that the deep red will be better, especially after seeing that you gave all your effort to this build (i wouldnt paint 42 fans for anything. really. nothing.) tbh they all look nice, except primochill,the copper one and the shining silver. the black chrome is meh, carbon looks the same as matte (at least from my monitor) the red,matte blacks or the black sparkles would be awesome


----------



## 3930K

Im thinking matte black.

Also, while I was searching for macro lenses, I found this:
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/637232010/magnifi-the-worlds-first-iphone-photoadapter-case
If you scroll down to r&d, it has a shot of a PCB, exactly how id like shots to look like. Crisp. Do you think that (with an iPhone macro lens ofc) should be fine until I can afford a bit more?


----------



## protzman

carbon


----------



## Truedeal

Subbed Mane! Too amazing of a build.

I read page 1 all the way to 25 as I was glued to this thread as soon as I saw the case.

Lets all hope it powers on, that 650 watt may not handle 50 fans. jk









Keep it up!








(correction:850 watt)


----------



## mphysgr

I like the Deep Red best, followed by the Carbon Black as a second choice.

By the way, thanks for all of the detail you are sharing. I am especially interested in what you end up doing with the fan wiring and the aquero. I am supposed to receive my TH10 tomorrow!!!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Hmm.. What color will you use for the tubes?
> The deep red ones would look awesome with a black tubing, and the carbon black ones would look awesome with a red tubing


Excellent clarification question. I will not do black tubing. I was thinking either white tubing or crimson tubing.....or a combination of both.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> the matte black is the classiest, and gets my vote, but its so common now that makes me think that the deep red will be better, especially after seeing that you gave all your effort to this build (i wouldnt paint 42 fans for anything. really. nothing.) tbh they all look nice, except primochill,the copper one and the shining silver. the black chrome is meh, carbon looks the same as matte (at least from my monitor) the red,matte blacks or the black sparkles would be awesome


The matte black and carbon black are very similar. In person, you can tell a difference though. The Carbon Black is a little duller finish, while the Matte Black has a little bit more shine to it. And of course the o-rings are different, but I would probably change those out.


----------



## Big Elf

I'd say Bitspower Shiny Silver with black tubing. It'll add a new, subtle contrast to the other colours you're using.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I'd say Bitspower Shiny Silver with black tubing. It'll add a new, subtle contrast to the other colours you're using.


Hmmmm.....you're the second that thought black tubing might look good. May have to put that back in as an option. Was thinking white tubing, or crimson tubing, or both.


----------



## Citra

Deep red. 2c
Matches very well imo.


----------



## Blaze0303

Deep red seems to match the best.


----------



## TheBadBull

The deep red with white tubing would look solid.


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Excellent clarification question. I will not do black tubing. I was thinking either white tubing or crimson tubing.....or a combination of both.


oh, in that case I'd say Bitspower carbon black









Extended answer about black tubing: Well, you do kinda have a "3-way color scheme" with black, white & crimson. One of the most important things is to never over-do a color, nor under-do one. With the black mounting.. things on the fans, it would look really good with something more .. black, like the tubing. On the other hand, please do not use crimson for the tubing/liquid








Since both the case and the fans are crimson, it'll look overdone. White will look really sharp though.
(I'm not trying to tell you how to do stuff, just giving you my







)


----------



## GingerJohn

I like the copper on the white rad, but I don't think it will fit with the rest of the colour scheme.

I would go for deep red depending on if it matches with the crimson fan blades in person.

That way you would have a white base with red / crimson accents - makes the colour stand out without being overpowering.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ahhhhh...I love to see the mailman. Except this week it has been 'mailgirl' ....
> 
> Lets open her up


Ummm...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Could you put Shade19 next to a RoG mobo please?


Sorry for being a nitpick, but if you are quoting a bunch of pics could you put them in spoiler tags?
Thanks.


----------



## legoman786

The red does follow the theme. Gotta see the tubes/pipes first.


----------



## Axis24

Originally Posted by cpachris

Ahhhhh...I love to see the mailman. Except this week it has been 'mailgirl' ....

Lets open her up

ROFLMAO:thumb:


----------



## Quest99

First of all.....WOW...I love your product photography shots.....I find it FANTASTIC that you take the time to take these pictures and posting them....asking us for our opinions on your gear. It really feels that we are right there building with you... well we all wish that we were there helping you sleeving and painting those 42 fans!







But yeah....thank you for taking the time to do all that you do.

Now to answer your question.....You have no other choice, but to go with *Deep Red with White tubing*.









Cheers!

Quest99


----------



## conntick

BP deep red or carbon black fittings. white tuning would look cool, but clear tubing with some white mayhems would look far better.


----------



## nathanak21

I would say black ghost with white tubing. I think the black rings really bring out the black details. Kinda balances out all of the white and crimson.


----------



## carmas

It is a tough decision, bitspower makes some good looking fittings. I think my first choice would be carbon black. Tied in the second position deep red and chrome low profile.


----------



## merlinx76

So many tough decisions, LOL

The deep red looks really nice, but you need to add some sample tubing colors to the pics so we can get a better idea of the whole color scheme







. Using my imagination, I am thinking red fittings/ white tubing could look really good.


----------



## langer1972

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Fans are here! Me and the FedEx guy are close at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got some pictures of them, but first here is the final vote tally on fan color combinations:
> Crimson blades on white frame - 12
> White blades on crimson frame - 2
> Crimson blades on crimson frame - 1
> Black blades on white frame - 1
> Black blades on crimson frame - 1
> Crimson on white is what I'll do! I do truly appreciate everyone taking a look at the color combos with me. Now on to the FrozenCPU package:
> Came in two boxes
> 
> 
> 42x Noiseblocker M12-S2 Fans
> 
> 
> And these 4x little baby Noiseblocker fans. Cute as can be! Saw them over in asg's build log in this post, and just thought they looked sharp. The rating on these are less than 4 CFM. Ha! They won't move a lot of air, but I just think they are so darn cute! Make sure and check out what asg did with them.
> 
> and 4x 140mm Noiseblocker Black Silent Pro's
> 
> and one more Black-Ice SR1 radiator. This one is a 280, and will go in the rear of the pedestal. I love this shot. Make sure and click for larger view.
> 
> Well.....I've got some fans to paint! I'll document progress over the weekend, and I also want some help selecting fittings. I've got a handful that I will show you in some pictures tomorrow.


I am sorry but that has to be by far the most nutty thing I have ever seen and I do mean that with all my heart.


----------



## cpachris

Wow. I love the fact that people actually participate in this thread. You guys are all awesome. There were really too many to go back and quote/reply on all of them, but please know that appreciate the thoughtful comments and opinions on the fittings. I've absorbed all of the feedback so far, and I've narrowed the list. Deep Red got the most votes, followed closely by one of the blacks. Also, as bruflot quickly pointed out, its kind of hard to decide on the fittings without knowing what the tubing is going to look like. So for the fittings that survived the first round, I've taken pictures with different colors of tubing in each of them (white, crimson and black).

So first, let me talk about which ones didn't make the cut during this first round. There are two that I'm eliminating for similar reasons. The PrimoChill Black Ghost, and the XSPC Black Chrome. I really like the way both of these fittings look.....but I got to playing around online with what's available in those lines other than compression fittings. The answer...very little. And since I plan to do some "fittings only" connections between some items, this would be an extremely limiting factor. I like knowing that there are 45's and 90's and rotary snakes, and extenders and adapters, and all the other little parts that can make fittings fun. So these two....must be eliminated.

Next...I've got two black fittings in my initial list. Bitspower Matte Black and Bitspower Carbon Black. I had heard people say that they were very similar....but I usually want to see for myself. In this case...they were right. Unless you had already seen both of them side by side, in person,....I would say that there is no way to tell the difference unless you get up real close to them. Since they are so similar, there is no reason to bring both of them through to the next round. I've picked one....and its the Carbon Black. For me....I just think the duller deeper black is a little more attractive....plus the red o-rings are a real good match and I wouldn't need to change them out. So....cross Matte Black off the list.

Next...the Bitspower Black Sparkle and the Bitspower Silver Shining are pretty similar. Not as similar as the two blacks above....but similar none the less. They both look like chrome....but the black sparkle just takes a little bit of the shine off of it. I like them both, but since they are both very similar, I think I like the Black Sparkle better. So I'm going to eliminate Silver Shining and take it off the list.

So from my initial list of eight...there are four survivors for this next round of pictures. Remember you can load up a big version of the picture by clicking on it. The large pictures are pure computer porn.









1. PrimoChill - Black Ghost
2. Bitspower - Matte Black
3. AlphaCool - Copper
4. Bitspower - Black Sparkle
5. Bitspower - Carbon Black
6. XSPC - Black Chrome Low Profile
7. Bitspower - Deep Red
8. Bitspower - Shining Silver

For tubing...I happen to have some white, crimson (dyed myself), and black tubing laying around, so for each of the four fittings survivor, I've taken a shot with each of the 3 colors of tubing attached. I'll also give you some thoughts on the fitting before each series of 3 pictures:

*AlphaCool - Copper*
Only a couple people mentioned copper in the comments tonight, but I actually think it looks pretty sharp. I did want to make sure everyone knows that it will be unavoidable to have some copper in the build. Most likely my CPU water block and GPU waterblocks will feature a significant amount of copper. Also, I have 2 copper fin Aqua Computer AMS rads on the way. My plan was to leave the copper fins as-is, but powercoat the sides of the rads. So....there will be some copper no matter what. Would copper fittings make it TOO much copper? I don't know. But I didn't want someone to nix copper just because they thought it wouldn't go with the build colors. It will be part of the build colors.





*Bitspower Black Sparkle*
The Bitspower Black Sparkle is kind of like a black chrome, and looks very sharp with almost any other colors. Won't clash with motherboard trim. Good way to take the existing black trim and blend it with a new color. I like Black Sparkle.





*Bitspower Carbon Black*
Black fittings are a classic, and would clearly not upset any of the color scheme I have going on. These have the added benefit of a deep red O-ring, which DOES end up showing on some connections. I think the black would look great against any of the white settings (primarily 5 of the radiators), but I also think black fittings get a little lost when the connections are on a block on a black motherboard. Doesn't look bad...just kind of gets lost. And I'll be using the Asrock Extreme 11, which is primarily black. But they are good looking fittings.





*Bitspower Deep Red*
Red got the most votes during the first round. This red is a pretty good match for the case color. Not 100%, but close enough where it doesn't draw attention. These are good looking fittings. I also like that they are less common than the black. Feel a little more exclusive.





Again, I appreciate all the feedback. It helps me shape my own opinion. If you would be so kind, indulge me one more time, and based on the surviving fittings and tube colors, let me know your favorite one or two combinations of fitting/tube colors, that you would consider if you were doing this build.


----------



## ASSEMbler

When I open a store, I hope to have customers with wallets like yours.


----------



## RedScorch

SUBBED This is a build worthy of legend, this is going to be INSANE when it's finished.


----------



## barkinos98

black sparkle with red tubing or carbon black with white tubing or deep red with white tubing. copper looks out of the league imo. to choose the best from these three, i vote for black sparkle with red tubing. looks real nice.


----------



## TheGrayDon10

black chrome


----------



## merlinx76

Now that I can see the actual color combinations, I think carbon black with white tubing. looks the best.


----------



## bruflot

Carbon Black w/ White tubing
or
Deep Red w/ Black tubing


----------



## Quest99

Deep red with white tubing is the nicest combo.

Carbon black with white tubing is a close second.

Although I like the red tubing, I am afraid that it will be too much thus I chose white tubing to retain the "clean" look of this build.


----------



## General121

Deep red w/ Black tubing. That jumps out as a menacing and more badass sort of look, atleast compared to the others


----------



## conntick

red fittings on white tubing


----------



## legoman786

The deep red on white looked pretty sharp, IMO.

The copper with white give it an industrial feel to it, in a weird way that I think is industrial. If anyone else feels the same, I'm not alone!


----------



## mphysgr

I like the Deep Red with the white tubing best. I also like the Carbon Black fttings with Red Tubing. I am not fan of the black tubing in your build. Since your case is red, I think the white tubing would look best.


----------



## carmas

You know, I find this thread is very pleasant to read not only because the build is badass, but also because the photos are really great. It feels like I can touch those radiators.

This said, I still vote for carbon black.

I am not sure whether I would pair it with white or red tubing. I mean, the white tubing looks best in my opinion, but there is the risk the it becomes too much considering that the case interior is also white. I really think we will need some more pictures with tubing and rad inside the case as a comparison. (yes, I am trying to get more pictures, but it's your fault that you are so good with it)


----------



## forumaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


I think the copper is the sharpest. Especially if you are going to have some other copper items inside the case. I think you risk the color scheme getting to ho-hum unless you throw in something sparkly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


And my second choice would be the red. Don't see these in a lot of builds. Like it.

White tubing looks best in every one of these pictures, and will look especially good in the main compartment against the motherboard. But I think you should consider the red tubing in the lower compartment or in the upper section, where you will have mainly white background.

Loving this build!


----------



## Electrocutor

Are the alphacool copper fittings coated so they won't tarnish over time?

I was thinking instead of just picking one set of tubes/fittings colors, you could regionalize them. For example, you could use the translucent red tubing up against the motherboard water blocks and the muted white or black for long runs to radiators and such.

I'd say the red fittings look best with the white tubes, copper with red tubes, and either copper or carbon black with black tubes.

I'm surprised you didn't include gold fittings with your samples, but I guess if you will have copper exposed on water blocks, that wouldn't make sense.


----------



## Citra

I'd still go with the red fittings and white tube. No one else has them.


----------



## GingerJohn

Deep Red / white tubing

or

Copper / white tubing.

I am a bit of a sucker for exposed copper, Not sure how it will look when everything is in though.


----------



## nathanak21

I say black fitting and red tube. The red tubes will ballence out the all white inside and the all red outside. Imo red on white is better than white on white.


----------



## TPE-331

I say white tubing with red fittings.








Too bad no one makes crimson colored tubing. Would be cool if you could alternate between crimson and white tubing with crimson and white fittings.







That would look bad ass!


----------



## Depran

I just spent a ton of time catching up on this awesome thread and still cannot get past the color scheme (iowa fan so I have to dislike Oklahoma for a year







). But damn this thing just rocks.... I would vote red fittings with black tubing because white tubing on white inside of ur case would be too much. Thankfully really cannot go wrong. Keep the pics coming.


----------



## langer1972

Yes please more pic's.


----------



## jonnyrattler

I vote for the copper ones with white tubing. Subbed.


----------



## BlazinJoker

You really can't dis-qualify any of those combos until they're seen inside the case, except the black chrome since nothing else is really chrome. I'm really worried if the white tubing will be too much with the white interior even though it looks so awesome with the red fittings.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> You really can't dis-qualify any of those combos until they're seen inside the case, except the black chrome since nothing else is really chrome. I'm really worried if the white tubing will be too much with the white interior even though it looks so awesome with the red fittings.


This.


----------



## Onions

i have to say i liked the red on red. Flowed super well in my opinion


----------



## alex1337

deep red fitting white tubing IMO


----------



## merlinx76

We all have different tastes for sure. Some of you mentioned the white tubing being lost in the white interior, but I was thinking that there are going to be plenty of things inside the case for the tubing to contrast with since most of it will be in front of the motherboard anyway.


----------



## cnopicilin

Subbed, this is one of the most amazing builds I've seen so far - just plain awesome!

I'd either use red fitting and white tubing or black fitting w/ white tubing.

There's one thing I couldn't find or just missed it, how much does the whole thing cost? Only the SSDs will take a few thousand dollars and that's just a small part of it!

EDIT: Around 20,000$, but that's around 7 years of smoking or a car. I could live without them.


----------



## cpachris

Fittings and Fans Update

An update to let you know where I am on both of these areas. With the fittings, I want to thank you all for thoughts and comments. There are a bunch of good comments that have caused me to change my mind about 20 times on what I like best. I appreciate all of the interest. I'm going to make my way back through the comments and quote/respond several of them, ....but wanted to let you know I have read them all multiple times.

The Black Sparkle fittings got the least number of "likes", and I agree that they don't really add any "punch" to the color theme. I've eliminated those from consideration. I've also concluded that I'm not a big fan of the black tubing when its paired with the Carbon Black fittings (too much black) or the Copper fittings. But black tubing looks pretty good with the Deep Red fittings. The Deep Red fittings got more "likes" than any of the others...and I can't argue with that. They really look pretty slick with this color theme, and they also have a certain exclusivity since they are not used very often. Love them. On the white radiators....its the best look. But...I worry about how they will look in the main compartment when connected to copper blocks with a dark motherboard as the background.

I love the Copper fittings.....almost as much as the Deep Red. Not only do they look great with the white radiators, but I think they would also look great against a darker motherboard background.

I love the Carbon Black fittings....just not as much as Deep Red or Copper. But, I still really like them. And...they kind of go with everything. White radiators, dark motherboard, copper waterblocks....etc.

I was trying to think about what types of changes I could make to the waterblocks and/or motherboard, that would ensure that the Deep Red fittings looked good everywhere. If I used some of the clear plexi-top blocks where you can see the liquid underneath....and used a milky white coolant running through them....then the red fittings would still look great (and so would all the others). I was initially planning on having full copper blocks, since I like that look, but I need to make sure and focus on how the whole system looks, and not just an individual component. Could always paint capacitor caps crimson or white. Or use some white carbon wrap to lighten up certain items.

I've thought a lot about what several people suggested, regarding using different fittings in the lower compartment than I do in the main compartment. I'm going to try and stay away from doing this, so I can build a large collection of fittings that can be used interchangeably. When I think about the fittings that will really show....its just the main compartment. The lower pedestal ends up being hidden for all of the inside stuff, because the main compartment sits on top of it, and the fittings are all on the inside of the radiators. All you see of the pedestal components is the fans on the outside of the radiators. For the radiators that will sit on top of the case underneath the tall top, the radiator fittings will be underneath pointing down into the main compartment. So even for these radiators, you will only see the fittings/tubes when looking in the main compartment towards the top. Its really just inside the main compartment (on both motherboard side AND the PSU side) where you will see fittings and tubing. So that's where it should look the best.

Since I've eliminated several from consideration, I took some shots of the remaining survivors....but this time stuck them on top of a dark colored pump top. I don't have a motherboard or copper block available for pictures right now. Take a look at these:









If these pictures make you change your mind, or even if they generate some additional thoughts.....I'd love to hear them. It helps me sort out my own thoughts when I hear you argue for why you think a certain one looks best. Appreciate the comments in advance!

Now for the fans....I'm done with all 42 of the 120cm fans. So, I've got to post pictures of the last part of the re-assembly line process, and then I'll attempt some type of artsy picture of all of them together. Look for those posts later tonight.


----------



## bruflot

This one gets my vote


----------



## Citra

Sticking with this.


----------



## AdvicePlease

My vote is either dark red/white or copper/white. Both look sharp.


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


I say this one.


----------



## merlinx76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


I still vote for this as the best choice. I think it would be best if you could avoid copper altogether... 4 colors is just too many! I would stick with white/red/black options. I like a couple of your other choices from this post, but lose the copper IMO. Things just start to look too busy.


----------



## fkjac

Phew! Finally catched up to this thread.
I vote deep red with black tubing.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merlinx76*
> 
> I think it would be best if you could avoid copper altogether... 4 colors is just too many! I would stick with white/red/black options. I like a couple of your other choices from this post, but lose the copper IMO. Things just start to look too busy.


I have two copper fin AquaComputer AMS radiators on the way. Will be hard to hide the copper in those things.


----------



## Electrocutor

Copper fittings on CPU, RAM, Motherboard, and GPU blocks
Translucent red tubing between CPU, RAM, and Motherboard blocks
Red fittings on any other visible non-block G1/4" connections (pump, reservoir, etc)
White tubing anywhere visible not using red tubing


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> 
> Copper fittings on CPU, RAM, Motherboard, and GPU blocks
> Translucent red tubing between CPU, RAM, and Motherboard blocks
> Red fittings on any other visible non-block G1/4" connections (pump, reservoir, etc)
> White tubing anywhere visible not using red tubing


I'm definitely down with different colors of tubing, depending on where its run. Going to try and stick with one finish on the fittings though.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm definitely down with different colors of tubing, depending on where its run. Going to try and stick with one finish on the fittings though.


Ok, I just figured the red tubing would accent the motherboard runs and the white tubing would semi hide when it goes to and from the loop since the whole enclosure is white inside. I would go with the copper fittings if you aren't mixing fitting colors. I really do like the muted black tubes, but since you already have a white/red/copper color scheme going, I figured it wouldn't make much sense.


----------



## cpachris

Catching up on subscriptions!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnyrattler*
> 
> ISubbed.


Welcome jonnyrattler!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cnopicilin*
> 
> Subbed, this is one of the most amazing builds I've seen so far - just plain awesome!


Appreciate the kind words!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Depran*
> 
> I just spent a ton of time catching up on this awesome thread and still cannot get past the color scheme (iowa fan so I have to dislike Oklahoma for a year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But damn this thing just rocks....


Iowa? Really? Didn't think anyone actually lived there.







I was in Nebraska for a year or so. Drove to Desmoins a few times. Hope you enjoy the build, Depran!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedScorch*
> 
> SUBBED This is a build worthy of legend, this is going to be INSANE when it's finished.


Kind words, and I hope it can live up to them. Thanks RedScorch!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Subbed Mane! Too amazing of a build.
> 
> I read page 1 all the way to 25 as I was glued to this thread as soon as I saw the case.


Welcome Truedeal! I'm having fun with it so far!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> SUBBED!!!
> This rig looks SO GOOD LOL.


Thanks General121! Hope you stick with me!


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *merlinx76*
> 
> I think it would be best if you could avoid copper altogether... 4 colors is just too many! I would stick with white/red/black options. I like a couple of your other choices from this post, but lose the copper IMO. Things just start to look too busy.
> 
> 
> 
> I have two copper fin AquaComputer AMS radiators on the way. Will be hard to hide the copper in those things.
Click to expand...

Why not powdercoat those?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ahhhhh...I love to see the mailman. Except this week it has been 'mailgirl', as I guess my normal guy is on vacation. ....... Lets open her up


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Ummm...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> ROFLMAO:thumb:


THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Why not powdercoat those?


Well.....I guess it could happen. But the whole reason I got them was because I think the copper fins look absolutely awesome. However, they aluminum sides WILL be getting powdercoated. Leaning toward crimson right now.


----------



## Taikero

I just found this thread today and I have to say this is the most amazing custom build I've ever seen. Lots of effort, attention to detail, and desire for perfection here. Very awesome.

I wanted to throw my two cents in here on your tubing and fittings and say my vote goes to:

Deep red fittings. I was going to pick the Ghost Chill but since those have been ruled out, the deep red are my second choice.

I am going to be rather contrary on my tubing choice. Most others have suggested white, but my vote is to go with clear tubing.

Why clear tubing?

Because you can dye the liquid at any time, allowing for full customization, and clear tubing could also allow for some neat effects with LEDs from the inside of the case, should you so desire.

That is the direction I would go, as it allows you to put on a show either in a lighted area (using dyed liquid), or with low/no light (refraction through liquid with LEDs).

Excellent work so far! Quite the undertaking but it's looking fantastic!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASSEMbler*
> 
> When I open a store, I hope to have customers with wallets like yours.


Big credit card works almost as well. Good luck!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *langer1972*
> 
> I am sorry but that has to be by far the most nutty thing I have ever seen.


Ooooooo. That just may be sig worthy.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Why not powdercoat those?
> 
> 
> 
> Well.....I guess it could happen. But the whole reason I got them was because I think the copper fins look absolutely awesome. However, they aluminum sides WILL be getting powdercoated. Leaning toward crimson right now.
Click to expand...

I see.


----------



## cpachris

Before I can show you the last steps of putting the fans together, it would make sense for me to show you how I do the custom vinyl stickers. It's pretty easy to do, doesn't cost much, and really gives a build a professional custom look.

First, you need to use an artwork application to design what you want your sticker to look like. I use Adobe Illustrator. You could really use any program, but the reason I like AI is that it generates vector based graphics instead of raster based graphics (pixels). If you don't know the difference, Google it. In a nutshell, every line in vector art is defined by a mathematical equation that determines its relationship to other lines. What this allows is infinite scaling with no loss of quality. If your artwork is pixel based, it can start looking very poor when you make it larger or smaller.



When I'm replacing a sticker with one of my own, I typically like to use a copy of the Company's logo, but then use my own color scheme and other items. In AI, I setup one artboard where I just paste in copies of the logo I want to use. It will always be raster based if I've grabbed it from a website, so I use the "Live Trace" option in AI to create a vector based graphic from it. If the original jpeg was large and clean, the trace function returns great results. If it was small.....sometimes you have some clean-up to do. After I have accumulated any of the vector art I want to use, I start an artboard where I arrange the pieces like I want them, and then a 3rd artboard where I scale the item to the right size and then copy it as many times as it will fit:



Once this page is created, I will typically print it on plain paper, to test and make sure it is the size I want. Once happy with sizing, I get a sheet of printable vinyl and print the page on this. I typically use Papilio papers, and they have numerous ones to choose from, and you can find it fairly inexpensively online from their webshop or on Amazon. Its something like $10 to $15 a package for 10 sheets. This is the one I used for this project:



The printed page is thick and feels very sturdy. It feel like vinyl.....because it is. You need to set your printer settings to the thickest paper profile it has to make sure it can make it through (one of the photopaper settings should work).



Then you want to put a laminate over the top of it, to really give it that finished professional look. Any will do....I used this for my sticker project:



Lay it down slowly, trying to smooth it one from one side to the other and not get any air bubbles. If you look closely in this picture, you can see an air bubble that will probably eliminate two of these from being able to be used. If you get a lot of air bubbles....don't despair. Sometimes they come out easier once you have cut your stickers, because you don't have as far to move the bubble to an edge.



Now you are ready to cut out your stickers from the page. If you are doing circle stickers, like I am for this project.....DO NOT USE SCISSORS! Nothing would look worse than to see those ragged, non-perfect edges you are going to get from trying to cut a circle with a pair of scissors. You will ruin them, or be real embarrassed when you put them on your rig. Instead....you want a circle cutter. There are lots available online. I have several from "PaperShaper", and these are typically sold for scrapbooking and arts and crafts. The right size for the Noiseblocker fans is 1.5 inches, but you will find them in 1/8 inch increments for anything under 2 inches.




Now just carefully line up the circle cutter over your sticker and click. Ta-da!



Notice how I created the printed stickers with a larger border than I was going to cut? That is to make sure I don't have any white around the edges of the sticker when its cut.



Now admire your pile of stickers. They have a peel-off adhesive back and will stick to any component you want.



Now relax and enjoy some cabernet! Is that glass any better Rocky?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> *snip*
> Now relax and enjoy some cabernet! Is that glass any better Rocky?


Hey!!!







I got sent to jail for drinking Cabernet!







I'm U18!

/bad joke

Is Photoshop CS5 Extended usable for vectors? IIRC it was, but w/ this monitor I can't really check.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Hey!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got sent to jail for drinking Cabernet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm U18!
> /bad joke
> Is Photoshop CS5 Extended usable for vectors? IIRC it was, but w/ this monitor I can't really check.


I think Photoshop can show vector data in a file that already has it....but I don't think it has any tools to actually create or modify vector art. Photoshop is Adobe's raster tool, and AI is their vector tool.


----------



## TPE-331

Hey Chris, how about this color combo.

Deep red tubing



White fittings.


----------



## nathanak21

^^agreed^^


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Hey Chris, how about this color combo.
> Deep red tubing
> White fittings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanak21*
> 
> ^^agreed^^


Can you find any better looking fittings in white? Would be a cool idea, but those just look cheap.


----------



## TheHarvman313

I would use the Deep Red if you are going to use white tubing or use the Carbon Black fittings.

I personally think the Deep Red with white tubing would really make the build pop!!!


----------



## merlinx76

This thread is great! Thank you Chris for sharing so much info, all the great photos and allowing us all to live vicariously through you







I find myself checking my inbox every half hour to see if there are any updates! You are certainly inspiring me to put more effort into the looks in my system.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> 
> This one gets my vote


This


----------



## TheHarvman313

Hey Chris, thanks for the little tutorial on the stickers. I do believe that I'll use this in the future.

As far as the copper blocks, I wouldn't worry about the copper showing or trying to match it. It'll just be accent. If you powdercoat the copper fin rads with the crimson, use the Deep Red fittings & white tubing then everything should look fine.

I do like the idea of using clear tubing and dyed coolant. That will give you a ton of possibilities. Not sure if that's what you want at this point, though!!!









You could use UV reactive tubing, or Mayhems white pastel coolant and put some UV reactive dye in it. That would look cool!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merlinx76*
> 
> This thread is great! Thank you Chris for sharing so much info, all the great photos and allowing us all to live vicariously through you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find myself checking my inbox every half hour to see if there are any updates! You are certainly inspiring me to put more effort into the looks in my system.


Most of my inspiration also comes from OCN. Its a great place to get ideas. Glad I could help.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Hey Chris, thanks for the little tutorial on the stickers. I do believe that I'll use this in the future.
> 
> I do like the idea of using clear tubing and dyed coolant. That will give you a ton of possibilities. Not sure if that's what you want at this point, though!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could use UV reactive tubing, or Mayhems white pastel coolant and put some UV reactive dye in it. That would look cool!


Glad the sticker thing helped. I'm not a UV kinda guy at all, but I'm not opposed to clear tubing with white coolant. I've seen some videos of systems that have done that and it is really cool looking. I'd have to see what it would look like in the crimson colored tubing though, because I do think there will be some runs of tubing that will look better crimson than white. I'm leaning toward having both colors. Check out this video which shows a guy filling his loop with Mayhem's White. Skip to 24 minutes into the vidoe. All of his waterblocks have clear plexi tops, so you see the white coolant in every block. It makes the blocks look like they are white. This might be a direction I go to keep the white theme, and have red fittings still look good.


----------



## jonnyrattler

Wow that is a lot of feed back from last night to today.









Since you are a big fan of OU i was wondering if you had thought at all of getting one of the sides painted with the the letters OU or maybe the mascot. But i do see that your a little attached to your crimson.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnyrattler*
> 
> Wow that is a lot of feed back from last night to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since you are a big fan of OU i was wondering if you had thought at all of getting one of the sides painted with the the letters OU or maybe the mascot. But i do see that your a little attached to your crimson.


Most of the sides are the windows (on both sides), but I am exploring some custom etching for the windows. I want the components to show prominently, but I may have some custom work done in smaller parts of the windows.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Can you find any better looking fittings in white? Would be a cool idea, but those just look cheap.


Hi Chris,

As far as I know, the Monsoons are the only compression fittings that come in white. They have a ton of other colors as well. here is the link.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33969

Maybe you could have your fittings powder coated?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Maybe you could have your fittings powder coated?


Hhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I wonder if that would work. That actually sounds pretty cool. I wonder if the finish would survive tightening them down.


----------



## TPE-331

You might want to ask Stren, his build log is here.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1188030/sponsored-project-thief-a-dual-wielding-full-watercooled-caselabs-tx10-2x3930k-2xr4e-gtx580-3gb-tri-sli-and-plenty-more

Last I remember, he had some Monsoons on hand. I'm not sure if he still has plans to use them or not. I'm sure he's got first hand experience with them.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> You might want to ask Stren, his build log is here.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1188030/sponsored-project-thief-a-dual-wielding-full-watercooled-caselabs-tx10-2x3930k-2xr4e-gtx580-3gb-tri-sli-and-plenty-more
> Last I remember, he had some Monsoons on hand. I'm not sure if he still has plans to use them or not. I'm sure he's got first hand experience with them.


Yeah, I've been through his build log before. Awesome build. But he didn't powdercoat any fittings. I wouldn't use the Monsoon fittings.....just don't like the way they look. But....if the Bitspower fittings could be powder coated white.....hmmmmmmmmmmmm.


----------



## TPE-331

I agree with ya 100% there. Do you think your local powder coater could make it happen?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> I agree with ya 100% there. Do you think your local powder coater could make it happen?


I think I'll show them one and see what they think. Matte white Bitspower compression fittings. Nice.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I think I'll show them one and see what they think. Matte white Bitspower compression fittings. Nice.


Yummy!


----------



## Quest99

Hands down my favorite active log atm. Keep up the great job and enjoy that Cabernet.... you earned it.


----------



## jonnyrattler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> I agree with ya 100% there. Do you think your local powder coater could make it happen?


Yes your local place that your have been using to get all your rads coated at should be able to sand blast them and paint them white for whatever fitting shape you like.

Here is a link to bitspowers main page on compression fittings. http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/product02.aspx?kind=52&kind2=52

This is the reason that i say that they should be able to do it. High Quality E-Plated Finished In Deep Black Color.http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092086&kind2=52
E plating stands for electronic plating which is how they do a large factory setting by dropping them in a bath of what ever color they want things. This is also how they put chrome on your wheels or bumper. Some auto forums i was reading say that some colors don't exactingly match up to the original like for chrome because you can't get the same luster (shiny) with the paint. Powder coating uses the same method by giving the particles a negative charge so that they will adhere to most metals. When you do this i would just make sure that the inside is taped off because bitspower may use some special powder paint that is corrosion resistant. Good luck and hope this helps









sorry for so many edits want to make sure i did my research correctly and it wasn't false.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Why did I have to miss this for so long?  But when does it no longer constitute as "Budget"?


----------



## BlazinJoker

You got my vote to powdercoat those bitspower fittings! Powdercoated fittings are definitely more on your level for this build anyway


----------



## conntick

This thread moves soooo fast. It's awesome. Great work chris!


----------



## asg

Powder coating the fittings would work on some of the fittings, as long as you don't get any powder coating on any of the threads and removed the o-rings.

I would probably not work on any of the rotary fittings, since there are internal o-rings and they would not stand up to the heat from the powdercoating oven.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Hey!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got sent to jail for drinking Cabernet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm U18!
> /bad joke
> Is Photoshop CS5 Extended usable for vectors? IIRC it was, but w/ this monitor I can't really check.
> 
> 
> 
> I think Photoshop can show vector data in a file that already has it....but I don't think it has any tools to actually create or modify vector art. Photoshop is Adobe's raster tool, and AI is their vector tool.
Click to expand...

Thanks.


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yeah, I've been through his build log before. Awesome build. But he didn't powdercoat any fittings. I wouldn't use the Monsoon fittings.....just don't like the way they look. But....if the Bitspower fittings could be powder coated white.....hmmmmmmmmmmmm.


Bitspower are planning to release white fittings themselves, but i don't know when:

http://h12.abload.de/img/bitspower-whiteagu2i.jpg


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> Powder coating the fittings would work on some of the fittings, as long as you don't get any powder coating on any of the threads and removed the o-rings.
> I would probably not work on any of the rotary fittings, since there are internal o-rings and they would not stand up to the heat from the powdercoating oven.


Good info, thanks. I don't have any of the rotary's to play with right now. Can they be disassembled?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> Bitspower are planning to release white fittings themselves, but i don't know when:
> http://h12.abload.de/img/bitspower-whiteagu2i.jpg


Where did you get the picture?


----------



## cpachris

Fan Reassembly Part 4

Two more mini assembly lines were what it took to finish up the fans. Here is what I did in each of them.

If you remember, the fans came with a little black plastic clip which kept the (non-sleeved) wiring in place on the frame. Well, after the electrical tape, and sleeving...I just can't make it fit flat enough inside the fan frame groove for this clip to go back on. But there needs to be something keeping the sleeved wire next to the frame. Thought about several options, but decided on super glue. That should hold it good, and also look the cleanest because it won't show anywhere. These are more self shot timer tripod shots, so the auto focus didn't always catch the right spot, but you'll get the idea. This is me putting down a thin strip of super glue inside the fan frame groove:



Then I would press the sleeve down into the fan frame groove and hold it nice and tight for about 60 seconds. I kept some tunes playing in the background to help pass the time.



Rinse and repeat 42 times.

Next assembly line was the last one. It's time to put the blades back on the fan, stickers on the frame, and test these puppies.

These Noiseblocker Multiframe fans comes with a little grease on the fan blade spindle, that you can see when you take them apart. After being disassembled for so long, and going through the taping, painting, etc.....I want to lube them back up before putting them back together. This is what I'm using for these fans. White lithium grease:



I cut the tip of the tube so that its big enough for the fan blade spindle to slide right in:



If I squeeze the tube a little bit while the spindle is inside the tube, it puts a nice little layer of grease on the spindle:



Then just press/click the fan blade back onto the frame. No clips or rings to mess with.



Then I plugged the fan back into my "Ghetto PSU" I made previously out of the 9-volt battery to test it. And by the way....I can't tell you how handy this little battery PSU has been to test fans. My guess is it would even power up a pump for loop fills. I may play with a cleaner design and make a few for sale. Very handy. Anyway, the fans needed to be tested, because after all, I had cut off all the original connectors, recrimped pins and put on new connectors. It would be fairly easy to make a bad crimp or put the wires back in the wrong connector spot. But I'm happy to report that all 42 fans spun back up and were as quiet as ever.



Flip the frame over and slap on one of the custom vinyl stickers we previously made:



Sit back and admire your work:



Rinse and repeat 42 times.

That does it for the 120mm fans. I've updated the thread index in the opening post with links to all the major sections of the thread so far. After the fan painting there are 4 reassembly posts, and in each one I'm doing one or more "assembly lines" with tasks. It definitely doesn't have to be done that way. Some people might choose to start with one fan and walk it all the way through the process from beginning to end, before moving on to the next fan. For me,...I found this approach easier for the volume of fans I was doing. I mean, with this many fans, even a fairly simple task that is about 3 minutes....will take 2 hours to finish for all 42 fans. And the more tasks you try and squeeze into your assembly line process, the more you are switching tools....etc. I like small bite-sized processes that I can quickly run down for all of them. But I may have done it differently if I was only doing a handful of fans. Just food for thought.

I still have to customize the four 140mm fans, and the 4 cute little baby fans. Look for some posts on that in the upcoming week.

I'm going to take all the finished fans up into the "faux studio" and get some artsy pictures of all of them. Look for those later today. And remember to check out the thread index in the opening post. I think I've covered all of the major picture updates with a link, so this gives readers an easy way to find that section or picture that you are remembering, without having to wade back through all of the comments.

Enjoy the weekend OCN!


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Where did you get the picture?


From Bundymania here:

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1038779578&postcount=446

Bundymania is well known and get hundreds of products for testing so i would personally trust him.


----------



## FannBlade

Very nice. Decals add a nice touch. I bet that 9v wouldn't run all of them long.


----------



## thehidecheck

Ima be honest, im just here for the pictures XD. Love watching anyway +1sub


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> Very nice. Decals add a nice touch. I bet that 9v wouldn't run all of them long.


I would just get a 12v power brick and use it to run the fans. What I do with all of mine. :thumb:


----------



## R4V3N

Just through interest, I was wondering if you have the orientation of the fans all planned out already?
I would hate for you to go through all of this and then find out that some of the decals are on sideways.

Epic build, though


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4V3N*
> 
> Just through interest, I was wondering if you have the orientation of the fans all planned out already?
> I would hate for you to go through all of this and then find out that some of the decals are on sideways.
> Epic build, though


I tried to think through and roughly plan sticker orientation. But it will just take seconds to replace or put a new one down if I didn't count right.


----------



## FannBlade

12v power supply


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> 12v power supply


Or you could just use a leftover transformer for a phone or something.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> 12v power supply


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Or you could just use a leftover transformer for a phone or something.


Your missing the beauty of the "portableness" of my ghetto 9-volt PSU. I don't need to plug it in. And since I undervolt all my fans once in production....9-volts is just about perfect for testing!


----------



## 3930K

I've run a toy motor off a 9V (well realy 170ma and 8.4V) for DAYS.


----------



## bruflot

So much shex..


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Your missing the beauty of the "portableness" of my ghetto 9-volt PSU. I don't need to plug it in. And since I undervolt all my fans once in production....9-volts is just about perfect for testing!


We knew that.


----------



## cpachris

Finished fan pictures.









Aaahhhhhhh......that OU crimson color gets me all gushy inside.


----------



## Truedeal

:O Did you sleeve that wire?


----------



## Quest99

WoW....looks OEM. Very nice....expect a lot of people to follow your trend. Me first.


----------



## cpachris

Thanks guys. Here are a few fun shots of the whole fan family......


----------



## Truedeal

HA.









Cpachris Edition....

I would like some cpachris fans also.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> HA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cpachris Edition....
> 
> I would like some cpachris fans also.


If Nils can write that on my pin remover.....I can write it on my fans.


----------



## The_chemist21

Best build this year hands down! Now if only I could push that first fan and let them fall like Dominos


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Best build this year hands down! Now if only I could push that first fan and let them fall like Dominos


Oooooooooo......that sounds like a cool video, worthy of doing. Don't tempt me!


----------



## The_chemist21

DO-IT! with the 7D


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> DO-IT! with the 7D


THIS!!!

Also, get a Xeon Phi for folding. Just do it, cpachris!


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> HA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cpachris Edition....
> 
> I would like some cpachris fans also.


srsly if youre willing to make custom fans and sell them you got another customer







also which brand is that deep red tubing? looks way better than a primocill


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Oooooooooo......that sounds like a cool video, worthy of doing. Don't tempt me!


You know you want to!


----------



## nathanak21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> You know you want to!


Yes!


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> also which brand is that deep red tubing? looks way better than a primocill


see:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> -snip-
> For tubing...I happen to have some white, crimson (dyed myself), and black tubing laying around,
> -snip-


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Now if only I could push that first fan and let them fall like Dominos


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> DO-IT! with the 7D


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> THIS!!! Just do it, cpachris!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> You know you want to!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanak21*
> 
> Yes!


Don't double dog dare me!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> also which brand is that deep red tubing? looks way better than a primocill


I've been experimenting with dyeing my own tubing and sleeving. You'll see that later in this thread, but if you want to see all my failures along the path of learning....I have a thread here that documents what I've been trying.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Now if only I could push that first fan and let them fall like Dominos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> DO-IT! with the 7D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> THIS!!! Just do it, cpachris!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> You know you want to!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nathanak21*
> 
> Yes!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't double dog dare me!
Click to expand...

Why not?


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've been experimenting with dyeing my own tubing and sleeving. You'll see that later in this thread, but if you want to see all my failures along the path of learning....I have a thread here that documents what I've been trying.


thanks nice effort


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've been experimenting with dyeing my own tubing and sleeving. You'll see that later in this thread, but if you want to see all my failures along the path of learning....I have a thread here that documents what I've been trying.


When you've finished all your experiments and such, you ought to write up a lengthy guide for dyeing and have ocn sticky it.


----------



## TPE-331

Hey Chris, there's nothing like having 50 sooner "fans" Eh?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Hey Chris, there's nothing like having 50 sooner "fans" Eh?


Da-dump.....rimshot! Can't believe someone hadn't taken that one already! Funny!

Here is another fan family shot:


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Da-dump.....rimshot! Can't believe someone hadn't taken that one already! Funny!
> Here is another fan family shot:


That is awesome....I can see you doing custom job on fans and charging money for it. You will become the Lutr0 of fans!


----------



## nathanak21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Don't double dog dare me!


I TRIPPLE dog dare you.


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Don't double dog dare me!


∞ Dog dare ya!


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Hey Chris, there's nothing like having 50 sooner "fans" Eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Da-dump.....rimshot! Can't believe someone hadn't taken that one already! Funny!
> 
> Here is another fan family shot:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Now it's even MORE tempting to tip the first one and watch 'em fall like dominoes.


----------



## 3930K

I goggleplex^goggleplex dog dare ya.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanak21*
> 
> I TRIPPLE dog dare you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> ∞ Dog dare ya!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> Now it's even MORE tempting to tip the first one and watch 'em fall like dominoes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I goggleplex^goggleplex dog dare ya.


No one...I said no one....can googleplex^googleplex dog dare me!







Working on video now....expect it up in 60 minutes.


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> No one...I said no one....can googleplex^googleplex dog dare me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on video now....expect it up in 60 minutes.


----------



## The_chemist21




----------



## cpachris

Why do I feel like the kid in the after-school special that got talked into smoking pot by his bad influence friends?

Success = White fans down and Black left standing


----------



## Axis24

My hats off to you sir you are pulling things off that I can only dream about. Maybe someday I will have the skills and knowledge you do!!!! but until then I'll keep rolling on.


----------



## The_chemist21

Rep+ for listening to your fans.


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Rep+ for listening to your fans.


I see what was done here.


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Rep+ for listening to your fans.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> I see what was done here.
Click to expand...


----------



## FannBlade

Very nice! Bloopers and all.


----------



## TPE-331

I just can't enough of this log Chris, I had to take a peek one more time before I sit down to watch this week's episode of Ice Road Truckers. Keep the updates coming.


----------



## TheBadBull

director...
That'll look good on a job application!


----------



## RedScorch

That was amazing (the video) I didn't think you would cave and do it.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> My hats off to you sir you are pulling things off that I can only dream about. Maybe someday I will have the skills and knowledge you do!!!! but until then I'll keep rolling on.


Very kind words, Axis24. Thank you. Hope you've unpacked that new camera gear and given it a whirl.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Rep+ for listening to your fans.


Wish more people thought like that. Thank chemist!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> I see what was done here.


You eyesight is noted!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> Very nice! Bloopers and all.


Appreciate is. And good luck with CaseModContest.com. Everyone here should check it out when they get a chance. Sounds cool.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> I just can't enough of this log Chris, I had to take a peek one more time before I sit down to watch this week's episode of Ice Road Truckers. Keep the updates coming.


Thanks TPE-331! Ice Truckers, huh? I haven't tried that one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> director...
> That'll look good on a job application!


I get a 10% headhunter finders fee if it lands you a good gig.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedScorch*
> 
> That was amazing (the video) I didn't think you would cave and do it.


Well did you see what they did? They googleplex^googleplex dog dared me. How could I not follow through?


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Why do I feel like the kid in the after-school special that got talked into smoking pot by his bad influence friends?
> Success = White fans down and Black left standing
> ~Snip~


You are by far my favorite person on OCN now.


----------



## Trafalgar

sexy beast


----------



## linkdiablo

Great log, but it's better followed from the start otherwise you have a mountain of posts to climb









Your Crimson tubing is self dyed, can you dye components? A custom dyed motherboard and / or cards would be awesome, do you think that's possible?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Great log, but it's better followed from the start otherwise you have a mountain of posts to climb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your Crimson tubing is self dyed, can you dye components? A custom dyed motherboard and / or cards would be awesome, do you think that's possible?


Maybe the heatsinks.

Thanks for the awesome video!


----------



## Quest99

Haha...Just saw the video! (couldn't see the link via my Ipad) I gotta give it to you, you have a lot of courage doing what you did. I would have been scared to scratch them after all that hard work.









Loved it!


----------



## 3930K

Due to your yt, I now know who you are!

http://www.americanfarmersandranchers.com/content_display.php?p_id=285


----------



## BlazinJoker

I think you'd have to paint the different parts of the motherboard, don't think dying them would work. Chris you should do what TTL did to his ROG Extreme III and change the color of the pci slots and memory slots. Just a thought


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> I think you'd have to paint the different parts of the motherboard, don't think dying them would work. Chris you should do what TTL did to his ROG Extreme III and change the color of the pci slots and memory slots. Just a thought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


Weeeell.. TTL didn't really do it himself, he gave it to the "local GKN" where they had to desolder and solder everything that had to be painted.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> You are by far my favorite person on OCN now.


Thanks! What can I do to become the 2nd and 3rd favorite also?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trafalgar*
> 
> sexy beast


Me or the fans?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Great log, but it's better followed from the start otherwise you have a mountain of posts to climb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your Crimson tubing is self dyed, can you dye components? A custom dyed motherboard and / or cards would be awesome, do you think that's possible?


Almost anything plastic could be dyed, but metal would have to be anodized.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Maybe the heatsinks.
> Thanks for the awesome video!


Your welcome! Thanks for directing it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Haha...Just saw the video! (couldn't see the link via my Ipad) I gotta give it to you, you have a lot of courage doing what you did. I would have been scared to scratch them after all that hard work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loved it!


I thought about that....but they are actually fairly hardy with the many light coats of paint. Small surface scratches don't make it all the way to the base. But it was kind of fun to do. And.....he googleplex^googleplex dog dared me. I'm not gonna say no to that!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Due to your yt, I now know who you are!
> http://www.americanfarmersandranchers.com/content_display.php?p_id=285


My yt? How did you find that link? You won't find that one linked on the website anymore. That is the company I resigned from after the "contractual dispute". But...it left me in great shape for time and money to do a great build this summer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> I think you'd have to paint the different parts of the motherboard, don't think dying them would work. Chris you should do what TTL did to his ROG Extreme III and change the color of the pci slots and memory slots. Just a thought


Anything that shows....will be considered for customization. With memory and PCI slots though...they end up being completely covered if you are using them all. So I'll just have to see.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Weeeell.. TTL didn't really do it himself, he gave it to the "local GKN" where they had to desolder and solder everything that had to be painted.


Not sure I would trust myself to desolder any motherboard parts....but when I get the board I'll be giving it a thorough overview to see what I feel comfortable doing. By the way....I'm going to be getting the Asrock Extreme 11 when it is released. Once the heatsinks are removed....it really doesn't have any colors. So it doesn't clash with build colors. I may need to do something with all of the 'gold' capacitors though.


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Not sure I would trust myself to desolder any motherboard parts....but when I get the board I'll be giving it a thorough overview to see what I feel comfortable doing. By the way....I'm going to be getting the Asrock Extreme 11 when it is released. Once the heatsinks are removed....it really doesn't have any colors. So it doesn't clash with build colors. I may need to do something with all of the 'gold' capacitors though.


Ohwow..


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Due to your yt, I now know who you are!
> http://www.americanfarmersandranchers.com/content_display.php?p_id=285
> 
> 
> 
> My yt? How did you find that link? You won't find that one linked on the website anymore. That is the company I resigned from after the "contractual dispute". But...it left me in great shape for time and money to do a great build this summer.
Click to expand...

Well, I took your YT pic, and then searched by images in Google Images.


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Well, I took your YT pic, and then searched by images in Google Images.


Congratulations!

Do you see it?


No? What do you mean by "no"?
Here, let me show you.



lol, not trying to be mean, but that was pretty useless ^^


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Well, I took your YT pic, and then searched by images in Google Images.
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> Do you see it?
> 
> 
> No? What do you mean by "no"?
> Here, let me show you.
> 
> 
> 
> lol, not trying to be mean, but that was pretty useless ^^
Click to expand...

You walked right through it ROFL.

Here it is on your screenshot:


But also here:


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> You walked right through it ROFL.
> Here it is on your screenshot:
> 
> But also here:


That's not my point. I mean that his username is his actual name, where we get direct access to his Google+ account.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> You walked right through it ROFL.
> Here it is on your screenshot:
> 
> But also here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's not my point. I mean that his username is his actual name, where we get direct access to his Google+ account.
Click to expand...

He has Google+?


----------



## bruflot

When you sign up to youtube now adays, I believe you automatically get a Google+ account.

Edit:


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> When you sign up to youtube now adays, I believe you automatically get a Google+ account.
> 
> Edit:


Thanks.


----------



## Citra

Less stalking, more modding!


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Less stalking, more modding!


sigged.


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Less stalking, more modding!


Stan, you know I like to stalk people.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Stan, you know I like to stalk people.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Less stalking, more modding!


quoted into my sig, hope youre ok w/ it


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Stan, you know I like to stalk people.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> quoted into my sig, hope youre ok w/ it


I'm Stan







Wrong Canadian bruflot


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I'm Stan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wrong Canadian bruflot


lol







i what is Citra's real name


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i what is Citra's real name


I can't divulge that information
for free...


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I'm Stan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wrong Canadian bruflot


Nah, just wait and see ^^


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Less stalking, more modding!


Best sentiment expressed today.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> sigged.


Worthy of a sig line, for sure. But he's talking about you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> quoted into my sig, hope youre ok w/ it


I may do the same.

Lets get back on track here. Another picture of the fans:


----------



## The_chemist21

Looks like another fine setup for dominoes


----------



## Quest99

Your product photography skills are motivating me to practice more with my dslr instead of 3d modeling....sigh...too many hobbies...not enough time.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Looks like another fine setup for dominoes










Already started to put them on rads at this point.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Your product photography skills are motivating me to practice more with my dslr instead of 3d modeling....both hobbies.


Thanks Quest! I've always wanted to get into 3D modeling, and never found the time. Been thinking about it this summer. Figured I might start simple with Google sketch. What program do you use?


----------



## The_chemist21

We need on-the-fly pictures or a live stream


----------



## nathanak21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> We need on-the-fly pictures or a live stream


A livestream would be awesome! Chris, what do you say?


----------



## RedScorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> We need on-the-fly pictures or a live stream


Live stream please!


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks Quest! I've always wanted to get into 3D modeling, and never found the time. Been thinking about it this summer. Figured I might start simple with Google sketch. What program do you use?


It really depends on what you want to accomplish. For me, I just needed a simple program to design some of my furniture, yet another hobby of mine. Sketchup is by far the easiest to learn for 3d modelling.
You can definitely learn it on your own. Here is something I did a while back.

Cheers!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> We need on-the-fly pictures or a live stream


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanak21*
> 
> A livestream would be awesome! Chris, what do you say?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedScorch*
> 
> Live stream please!


I'll do a live stream for one hour, starting in 2 minutes at 8:00 central time. Instructions in link.


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll do a live stream for one hour, starting in 2 minutes at 8:00 central time. Instructions in link.


No thanks, I see the hyperlink when I hover the cursor over the Link


----------



## OmniScience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll do a live stream for one hour, starting in 2 minutes at 8:00 central time. Instructions in link.


Haha, awesome!


----------



## The_chemist21

How about a 20 minute Video showing you build the computer tonight using your 7D


----------



## RedScorch

Hahaha I'm loving the live stream, actually not that bad of a song and I haven't head it in a while.


----------



## TPE-331

Chris, your fans are goog to go. What do have.planned next? This is going to be build of the year easily.







sorry fot my typing man, I syarted my holiday drinking early..


----------



## cpachris

Just 35 minutes of live streaming left for the night!


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Just 35 minutes of live streaming left for the night!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already started to put them on rads at this point.
> Thanks Quest! I've always wanted to get into 3D modeling, and never found the time. Been thinking about it this summer. Figured I might start simple with Google sketch. What program do you use?


Yay for fan radage. Let us know how well they air seal.

3D Modeling Rabbit Hole:
http://www.pixologic.com/home.php
http://usa.autodesk.com/3ds-max/

*WARNING* If you pick up the 3D modeling hobby, all your remaining free-time is forfeit.


----------



## cpachris

First of all, thank you to all who participated in the live stream tonight. I think it went well, and we'll do it again real soon. Recording of stream will remain available here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> sorry fot my typing man, I syarted my holiday drinking early..


TPE-331.....you were two typos away from making my sig quote list.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> It really depends on what you want to accomplish. For me, I just needed a simple program to design some of my furniture, yet another hobby of mine. Sketchup is by far the easiest to learn for 3d modelling.
> You can definitely learn it on your own. Here is something I did a while back.
> Cheers!


That picture is really awesome! So how long does it take. I've seen people post some generic case models in sketchup, but how long would it take me to map out all the stuff I was thinking about doing inside the case? Is it fairly easy to pickup? What program did you use to generate this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> 3D Modeling Rabbit Hole:
> http://www.pixologic.com/home.php
> http://usa.autodesk.com/3ds-max/
> *WARNING* If you pick up the 3D modeling hobby, all your remaining free-time is forfeit.


Saw the words "free trial" on one of the pages. Like that. Which one would you recommend for someone who wants to be dangerous enough to dabble with it....but probably wouldn't ever use it professionally?


----------



## Quest99

Electrocutor is probably a pro at 3D modelling and rendering. My friend is a pro and always makes fun of my Sketchup drawing, but like I mentioned before, it suits my needs. I use Sketchup (free) for modelling and Kerkythea(free) or V-ray for rendering. 3d modeling is time consuming and can take a huge chunk of your time, which I seem to be lacking these days.

There are tons of models that people on the net share, which you can use for free. Saves you a ton of time. Here is a website for Sketchup models.

http://scc.jezmckean.com/home

My best advice is to try different programs and see what suits you the best.

Cheers!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Saw the words "free trial" on one of the pages. Like that. Which one would you recommend for someone who wants to be dangerous enough to dabble with it....but probably wouldn't ever use it professionally?


As Quest99 suggests (though I am no pro), you'll probably want to tinker for a while before spending any money on it, aside from maybe getting a good guide/book. If it grows on you, the more professional products let you do a lot more in less time once you get the hang of it.

If you want to make use of your models, but don't want to mess with game modding (like Skyrim/Neverwinter Nights 2/etc), check out http://www.ogre3d.org/.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Almost anything plastic could be dyed, but metal would have to be anodized.
> Anything that shows....will be considered for customization. With memory and PCI slots though...they end up being completely covered if you are using them all. So I'll just have to see.
> Not sure I would trust myself to desolder any motherboard parts....but when I get the board I'll be giving it a thorough overview to see what I feel comfortable doing. By the way....I'm going to be getting the Asrock Extreme 11 when it is released. Once the heatsinks are removed....it really doesn't have any colors. So it doesn't clash with build colors. I may need to do something with all of the 'gold' capacitors though.


Would there be a risk of staining contacts in the socket, slots or DIMM if you dyed the PCB, slots and/or DIMMs or your process is metal contact safe?


----------



## TheHarvman313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnyrattler*
> 
> Yes your local place that your have been using to get all your rads coated at should be able to sand blast them and paint them white for whatever fitting shape you like.
> Here is a link to bitspowers main page on compression fittings. http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/product02.aspx?kind=52&kind2=52
> This is the reason that i say that they should be able to do it. High Quality E-Plated Finished In Deep Black Color.http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092086&kind2=52
> E plating stands for electronic plating which is how they do a large factory setting by dropping them in a bath of what ever color they want things. This is also how they put chrome on your wheels or bumper. Some auto forums i was reading say that some colors don't exactingly match up to the original like for chrome because you can't get the same luster (shiny) with the paint. Powder coating uses the same method by giving the particles a negative charge so that they will adhere to most metals. When you do this i would just make sure that the inside is taped off because bitspower may use some special powder paint that is corrosion resistant. Good luck and hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for so many edits want to make sure i did my research correctly and it wasn't false.


Yeah after the plating, the parts are dipped in a dye bath. The plated coating absorbs the dye which is why there is no flaking. Also, and most important, the plating/dye layer is very thin. Powder coating is a much thicker coating (at least 10x as thick). I wouldn't recommend it for fittings. If you did you would have to mask off all of the threads. My company used to charge a substantial fee for doing this type of masking. If you get the powder on the fittings then there is not enough clearance or lubricity for the threads to mesh together. You can always ask your guys and see what they say. Definitely do a test piece first and see how it looks.

About the fan dominoes, that was just EPIC!!! Googleplex^googleplex dog dare?!?! Lmao.

Sorry I missed the live feed tonight. I just haven't been on the forum for a few days.

Hope the powder coating works out cuz I was thinking that white fittings would look cool. Love that picture of the white Bitspower fittings!! Those look great.

Have you thought about using pearlescent coolant? Does anyone have any experience with it? That might look nice in this build. Keep up the great work. This definitely could be build of the year!!!!


----------



## Whatts

WOW!
I just had to register so I could subscribe to this build log. Unbelievable attention to detail, and you must have unlimited patience (and similar wallet - or credit card as you mention). I just wish I'd have found this a little earlier so I could have gotten a few votes in.

Unfortunately you are giving me ideas for future builds of mine, I say unfortunately because all ideas seem expensive


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Would there be a risk of staining contacts in the socket, slots or DIMM if you dyed the PCB, slots and/or DIMMs or your process is metal contact safe?


I won't try anything dangerous. Can't dye metal....only plastic.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> About the fan dominoes, that was just EPIC!!! Googleplex^googleplex dog dare?!?! Lmao.
> Sorry I missed the live feed tonight. I just haven't been on the forum for a few days.
> Hope the powder coating works out cuz I was thinking that white fittings would look cool. Love that picture of the white Bitspower fittings!! Those look great.
> Have you thought about using pearlescent coolant? Does anyone have any experience with it? That might look nice in this build. Keep up the great work. This definitely could be build of the year!!!!


Fan dominoes was fun. You can catch in on the next live feed.







Someone else pointed out that even though the powdercoating would work for compression pieces, it probably wouldn't work for rotary pieces because of the concealed o-rings. I'll play with some and find out.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> WOW!
> I just had to register so I could subscribe to this build log. Unbelievable attention to detail, and you must have unlimited patience (and similar wallet - or credit card as you mention). I just wish I'd have found this a little earlier so I could have gotten a few votes in.
> Unfortunately you are giving me ideas for future builds of mine, I say unfortunately because all ideas seem expensive


Welcome Whatts!


----------



## BlazinJoker

You really need to take out the "Budget" in your Big Budget Boomer Box. "BBB" doesn't sound too bad w/out that extra "B". If your powdercoating radiators, fittings, and case parts you know its not any budget build. Along with another slew of reasons for this not being a "Budget" build.


----------



## cpachris

Fan pictures. You guys have seen a few of these already, but I need a place to park all of them for the index. Remember I'm loading full-size images, so you can click on any of them for a larger view. There really shouldn't ever be a need for those "56k warnings".....but if there was ever a need, this post would need to include it.


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> You really need to take out the "Budget" in your Big Budget Boomer Box. "BBB" doesn't sound too bad w/out that extra "B". If your powdercoating radiators, fittings, and case parts you know its not any budget build. Along with another slew of reasons for this not being a "Budget" build.


Not to mention the cost of the software AI alone just to do the Decals. I checked into getting that just for future build projects and after seeing the price was like holy sheep ****. LOL


----------



## BlazinJoker

I don't know what Chris was thinking when he put "Budget" in the build title


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> You really need to take out the "Budget" in your Big Budget Boomer Box. "BBB" doesn't sound too bad w/out that extra "B". If your powdercoating radiators, fittings, and case parts you know its not any budget build. Along with another slew of reasons for this not being a "Budget" build.


You're forgetting the first "B". The first and second "B" go together. "Big Budget".









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Not to mention the cost of the software AI alone just to do the Decals. I checked into getting that just for future build projects and after seeing the price was like holy sheep ****. LOL


Yeah, Adobe is proud of their software, and its not cheap. But you could actually use any software to make these. Even MS Paint.







The only reason I like AI is the live trace function. But someone could even do these stickers directly in Word if they found some pretty enough logos to copy directly in. You should try!


----------



## BlazinJoker

Oops,







just kept seeing budget never really put big and budget together haha. BBBB stands


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Welcome Whatts!


Thanks Chris.

I was wondering how set you are on your choice of motherboard.
Everything on your build is extreme², so why not go dual CPU?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Thanks Chris.
> I was wondering how set you are on your choice of motherboard.
> Everything on your build is extreme², so why not go dual CPU?


Not set. Definitely thought about a dual cpu build. But....since you can't overclock the Xeon's (except maybe 5%), I decided that I would rather have a single socket board with CPU running at 5 GHz or faster, than to have two CPU's running at 3.3 GHz. Overclocking is fun! If Intel ever releases unlocked Xeon's, I would have to consider it.


----------



## Axis24

I will have to check into that, Thanks


----------



## superericla

This build needs more fans.


----------



## derinerkan

Done.







Seriously, this is the first post I saw on OCN, and the one that made me register.


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Not set. Definitely thought about a dual cpu build. But....since you can't overclock the Xeon's (except maybe 5%), I decided that I would rather have a single socket board with CPU running at 5 GHz or faster, than to have two CPU's running at 3.3 GHz. Overclocking is fun! If Intel ever releases unlocked Xeon's, I would have to consider it.


You could always go with Amd Opterons....
The 16 core model.


----------



## BlazinJoker

They would mess with the graphics card's lanes which is crucial to benching. (I think)


----------



## nathanak21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derinerkan*
> 
> Done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, this is the first post I saw on OCN, and the one that made me register.


Welcome!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> This build needs more fans.


I was thinkin' the same thing. Let me see where I could squeeze a few more in.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derinerkan*
> 
> Done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, this is the first post I saw on OCN, and the one that made me register.


Welcome to OCN! You'll find this community amazing. Some talented and creative people here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> You could always go with Amd Opterons....
> The 16 core model.


Adobe products work much better with Intel. AMD is not an option.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> They would mess with the graphics card's lanes which is crucial to benching. (I think)


Yeah, I don't think the dual CPU thing is for me yet. The boards that hold them are not setup with the kind of PCI lanes I want. The Asrock Extreme 11 will have 72 lanes because of the two extra chips they have included. That will allow 4 graphics cards running 16x. You won't get that from any of the dual CPU boards right now. There may be a day when they are right for me....but not right now.


----------



## Whatts

I just wanted to put the dual CPU thingy out there, but plenty of reasons have been given why it's dismissed. You seem to give an awful lot of feedback on all suggestions, you must be going absolutely crazy by now









One more idea for your sig: "If something's stupid and it works, it's not stupid".


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> This build needs more fans.
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinkin' the same thing. Let me see where I could squeeze a few more in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derinerkan*
> 
> Done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, this is the first post I saw on OCN, and the one that made me register.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Welcome to OCN! You'll find this community amazing. Some talented and creative people here.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> You could always go with Amd Opterons....
> The 16 core model.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Adobe products work much better with Intel. AMD is not an option.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> They would mess with the graphics card's lanes which is crucial to benching. (I think)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, I don't think the dual CPU thing is for me yet. The boards that hold them are not setup with the kind of PCI lanes I want. The Asrock Extreme 11 will have 72 lanes because of the two extra chips they have included. That will allow 4 graphics cards running 16x. You won't get that from any of the dual CPU boards right now. There may be a day when they are right for me....but not right now.
Click to expand...

x16 between themselves, rhw usual to the CPU.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> x16 between themselves, rhw usual to the CPU.


Right. And betwen themselves is right where you need it for SLI. I believe its shortages of this chip that have delayed the Asrock Extreme 11.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> x16 between themselves, rhw usual to the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> Right. And betwen themselves is right where you need it for SLI. I believe its shortages of this chip that have delayed the Asrock Extreme 11.
Click to expand...

No, maybe it's because it's not coming


----------



## theseekeroffun

With everything I have read, I would wait for the Asrock 11 E. With the PLX chips and the LSI controller, it is a no brainer. Unless intel releases an Ivy-E CPU, the Asrock will my choice.
Keep up the good work.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> No, maybe it's because it's not coming


I think if Asrock thought there was a chance it wouldn't make it to market, they wouldn't have done so much with it at Computex this year. They could have let the memory of it drift into the night since it was already overdue...but they made that their highlighted board this year.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> With everything I have read, I would waist for the Asrock 11 E. With the PLX chips and the LSI controller, it is a no brainer. Unless intel releases an Ivy-E CPU, the Asrock will my choice.
> Keep up the good work.


It definitely looks strong. If they will release it sometime in the next 30 days or so, it really doesn't slow my build down at all. Going to be gone on vacation the last week of July and first week of August, and I probably wouldn't be ready for that part of my build before vacation anyway. Here's hoping its ready first part of August.


----------



## theseekeroffun

A friend of mine attended Computex and the Asrock rep told him it would be released in August. The delay has to do with the heatsinks, at least that is what he was told. Every picture I have seen does not show any heatsinks. I just hope some H20 blocks make it to market.


----------



## cpachris

Ta-da! Some of the most recent shots show the heatsinks.


----------



## theseekeroffun

I have not seen that pic and those heatsinks are ugly! Definitely needs some H20 attention.


----------



## cpachris

Maybe that's why they kept the heatsinks secret for so long!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I have not seen that pic and those heatsinks are ugly! Definitely needs some H20 attention.


I don't see what's wrong with them? I like the heatsinks on my Extreme7 but I would for sure prefer a block to be made for the high end ASRock boards.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I don't see what's wrong with them? I like the heatsinks on my Extreme7 but I would for sure prefer a block to be made for the high end ASRock boards.
> Jeffinslaw


I don't think any of the manufacturers are making H20 blocks for Asrock. As for the heat sink "plates" I would just take them off and paint them. My eye goes right to the yellow and it would screw up certain theme colored builds. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## bruflot

Yeah, the gold capacitors are horrifying. Don't see how they can match up with crimson.
Oh, and how did the color scheme with the fittings & tubing go?


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Yeah, the gold capacitors are horrifying. Don't see how they can match up with crimson.
> Oh, and how did the color scheme with the fittings & tubing go?


Hiding the capacitors will be easy.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I don't think any of the manufacturers are making H20 blocks for Asrock. As for the heat sink "plates" I would just take them off and paint them. My eye goes right to the yellow and it would screw up certain theme colored builds. Just my 2 cents.


Okay, I see what you mean. In defense of the board (not trying to start a war







) it isn't yellow in person. I'm sitting right next to my ASRock board and the gold on the heatsinks don't look that bad, it's really small too. That sucks that nobody is making blocks for any of the ASRock boards... they seem to be pretty high end boards so it would make sense to manufacture some but oh well.

I do understand the point about the capacitors though, yah they would mess with certain builds...

Just my 2 cents!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Okay, I see what you mean. In defense of the board (not trying to start a war
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) it isn't yellow in person. I'm sitting right next to my ASRock board and the gold on the heatsinks don't look that bad, it's really small too. That sucks that nobody is making blocks for any of the ASRock boards... they seem to be pretty high end boards so it would make sense to manufacture some but oh well.
> I do understand the point about the capacitors though, yah they would mess with certain builds...
> Just my 2 cents!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


How loud is the fan? No worries, I have painted things like these before. Like you, I would prefer a nice black acetal-nickel block.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I can't divulge that information
> for free...


lol







just saw the free part at quoting







can it go in my sig pleeeaaaaseeeeee? can i keep it dmanstasiu pls pls pls?


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I don't think any of the manufacturers are making H20 blocks for Asrock. As for the heat sink "plates" I would just take them off and paint them. My eye goes right to the yellow and it would screw up certain theme colored builds. Just my 2 cents.


Watercool HeatKiller
MB-Set ASRock X79 Extreme 3/4/4m/6/6GB

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13146_Watercool-HEATKILLER--MB-SET-ASRock-X79-Extreme-3-4-Ni.html


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Watercool HeatKiller
> MB-Set ASRock X79 Extreme 3/4/4m/6/6GB
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13146_Watercool-HEATKILLER--MB-SET-ASRock-X79-Extreme-3-4-Ni.html


Thanks for that, but I hate the look of copper. At least someone is making them. I can always have them plated in nickel locally.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just saw the free part at quoting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can it go in my sig pleeeaaaaseeeeee? can i keep it dmanstasiu pls pls pls?


Sure


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> How loud is the fan? No worries, I have painted things like these before. Like you, I would prefer a nice black acetal-nickel block.


The chipset fan? It never comes on! I have only seen it come on once and that was when the temp of the chip reached around ~55-60*C.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Watercool HeatKiller
> MB-Set ASRock X79 Extreme 3/4/4m/6/6GB
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13146_Watercool-HEATKILLER--MB-SET-ASRock-X79-Extreme-3-4-Ni.html
> PICTURES


What about Extreme7, 9 and the future 11?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## CrazzyRussian

Subscribed


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> What about Extreme7, 9 and the future 11?
> Jeffinslaw


Not sure about the 7, 9 or the future 11, I will do some more research to see if i can get anything. I have also just sent an email to Watercool to see if they can provide us with any information, I also asked about the Professional.


----------



## cpachris

Looks like I missed a good conversation while out for the 4th of July festivities today.

My two cents...some of the major waterblock companies need to start giving Asrock some respect. Asrock is the third largest board manufacturer in the world right now, behind Asus and Gigabyte. And, arguably, they are packing their boards with more features than almost any other manufacturer. There should be some more options for waterblocks for these boards. EK's "configurator" even announces that they have no plans to manufacture any blocks for these boards. Where's the love?

I won't be able to use the yellow in my color theme, so I'll remove the heatsinks/fans no matter what, and anything that needs cooling still I'll handle either with some generic/universal blocks and/or some active cooling fans.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Oh, and how did the color scheme with the fittings & tubing go?


I'm in the middle of an e-mail war with Bitspower, where I'm trying to strong-arm/coerce them into doing white fittings for me. If I can't get it done, I'll probably go Deep Red.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazzyRussian*
> 
> Subscribed


Welcome CrazzyRussian!


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm in the middle of an e-mail war with Bitspower, where I'm trying to strong-arm/coerce them into doing white fittings for me


Set up an online petition, if everyone that's subbed signs it, yer done


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Set up an online petition, if everyone that's subbed signs it, yer done


Only if it comes to that.







I'm trying to convince them its in their best interest to do so, and that I'll give them a lot of free publicity for the new fittings.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Not sure about the 7, 9 or the future 11, I will do some more research to see if i can get anything. I have also just sent an email to Watercool to see if they can provide us with any information, I also asked about the Professional.


Awesome! Let's hope there are some planned!

Jeffinslaw

P.S. Looking good so far!


----------



## BlazinJoker

In a month today you've gotten over 21,000 views... Bitspower would be stupid not to realize the free publicity. Vive el blanco fittings!!!


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm in the middle of an e-mail war with Bitspower, where I'm trying to strong-arm/coerce them into doing white fittings for me. If I can't get it done, I'll probably go Deep Red.
> Welcome CrazzyRussian!


Have you asked to see if you could order them in "raw" state?
Then powder coat as needed.


----------



## Quest99

Let us know if you need us to do anything to give more "pressure" for them to do it. I am all for the white fittings.


----------



## Axis24

I'm all in for putting the pressure on for white fittings,after spending close to a $1000.00 on fittings for my build I would have liked to have that color option and would like it for the next build.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> In a month today you've gotten over 21,000 views... Bitspower would be stupid not to realize the free publicity. Vive el blanco fittings!!!


Quizás la gente de Bitspower es dumber de lo que pensamos. Vive el blanco!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> Have you asked to see if you could order them in "raw" state?
> Then powder coat as needed.


Possibility for compression fittings and/or barbs....but I've got questions on whether the rotaries concealed o-ring would survive the process. I could replace any o-rings that are not concealed....but not sure if I can disassemble the rotaries to get to the inside o-ring. Do you know?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Let us know if you need us to do anything to give more "pressure" for them to do it. I am all for the white fittings.


I'm going to send link to this thread where it starts in on the fittings, so I think just mentioning in a post to this thread might help!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> I'm all in for putting the pressure on for white fittings,after spending close to a $1000.00 on fittings for my build I would have liked to have that color option and would like it for the next build.


I'm going to try. You have some rotaries and snakes, if I remember the picture correctly. Can you see if they could possibly be disassembled?

So if anyone else wants to see the white Bitspower fittings sooner rather than later....make a post in this thread saying so. I'll have the Bitspower people checking it out. They have become very responsive after ignoring me for almost a month when I first tried to place an order.

And while we are talking fittings.....I want to setup the motherboard tray so that I can quickly and easily take it out of the case, without having to drain the loop. I've seen several people accomplish this by using the Koolance quick disconnects.....but man....those things are BIG and ugly. Bitspower doesn't have any quick disconnects yet, but I was playing with some of their parts, and they have these D-plugs (link here) that are only 15mm long. So like a quick disconnect....that doesn't shut off the water flow. You just pull them apart. They also have these valves (link here) that I've seen several people use as part of their drain lines. Was thinking about combining the d-plugs and valves into a better looking quick disconnect. Has anybody seen a build that has done this? Any other ideas on a non-koolance better looking quick disconnect solution? It's important to me to be able to get the motherboard out easily without having to drain the loop.


----------



## Axis24

"Can you see if they could possibly be disassembled?"

For the sake of progress I will sacrifice a fitting or 2.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> "Can you see if they could possibly be disassembled?"
> For the sake of progress I will sacrifice a fitting or 2.


Hooray for Axis. Plus...if you can take one apart....this will give you a chance to post some cool macro shots using that new lighting equipment you picked up!


----------



## BlazinJoker

*Signing the petition for WHITE BITSPOWER FITTINGS*
We want white fittings!!! Or we will FIGHT!


----------



## Whatts

Yeah, c'mon BitsPower please give us white fittings, they'd look great!
Not to mention some of your competitors (cough * Monsoon * cough) already have them out.


----------



## 3930K

Hola.


----------



## barkinos98

white bp fittings?!?!?!?!!







i would purchase them at a instant!


----------



## NOCA

White BP fittings sound awesome


----------



## Axis24

Ok so here is my report on the possible disassembly of a rotory fitting.IT AIN"T HAPPENING.LOL













The copper snap ring is the killer there is no way to compress it to pull them back apart.


----------



## jonnyrattler

we want white fittings


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Ok so here is my report on the possible disassembly of a rotory fitting.IT AIN"T HAPPENING.LOL
> The copper snap ring is the killer there is no way to compress it to pull them back apart.


Awwwww. Disappointing results....but great pictures! One fitting down....in the name of science!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Ok so here is my report......IT AIN"T HAPPENING!


I also felt this was worthy of signature quotes.


----------



## Jackeduphard

this guy either A a trust fund kid with WAY TO MUCH MONEY! or B he been saving for ... ever for this EPIC WIN build! Or C he has a EPIC job ... or he is a drug dealer ... not sure witch ...


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Ok so here is my report on the possible disassembly of a rotory fitting.IT AIN"T HAPPENING.LOL
> The copper snap ring is the killer there is no way to compress it to pull them back apart.


At least you did it for science!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jackeduphard*
> 
> this guy either A a trust fund kid with WAY TO MUCH MONEY! or B he been saving for ... ever for this EPIC WIN build! Or C he has a EPIC job ... or he is a drug dealer ... not sure witch ...


If forced to choose from one of your well worded options, it would be EPIC job. Had to correctly spell "which" on the job application though......


----------



## RedScorch

What do we want? White fittings! When do we want them? As fast as shipping allows!


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> If forced to choose from one of your well worded options, it would be EPIC job. Had to correctly spell "which" on the job application though......


Accountants have to spell correctly? Who knew.

Having read the "from my perspective" e-mails from my company's CEO I _know_ he didn't get there on the strength of his spelling and grammar...

Thank god engineers are not expected to be able to spell. Just draw, write numbers in an illegible scrawl and be pessimistic about everything.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Thank god engineers are not expected to be able to spell. Just draw, write numbers in an illegible scrawl and be pessimistic about everything.


Ha! You just described engineers perfectly!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Bitspower doesn't have any quick disconnects yet, but I was playing with some of their parts, and they have these D-plugs (link here) that are only 15mm long. So like a quick disconnect....that doesn't shut off the water flow. You just pull them apart. They also have these valves (link here) that I've seen several people use as part of their drain lines. Was thinking about combining the d-plugs and valves into a better looking quick disconnect. Has anybody seen a build that has done this? Any other ideas on a non-koolance better looking quick disconnect solution? It's important to me to be able to get the motherboard out easily without having to drain the loop.


The biggest issue I see is that they're G1/4" threaded, so you'll bottleneck if you're using 1/2" ID tubing. Otherwise, I'd say give it a try: it looks like as long as you put the valves directly onto that removable fitting, there shouldn't be much in the way of water spill and bubbles during d/c and reconnect.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> The biggest issue I see is that they're G1/4" threaded, so you'll bottleneck if you're using 1/2" ID tubing. Otherwise, I'd say give it a try: it looks like as long as you put the valves directly onto that removable fitting, there shouldn't be much in the way of water spill and bubbles during d/c and reconnect.


Yes, you are right....it will probably add some restriction to the loop. But I wouldn't guess it would add any more than all of the other G1/4 fittings I'll have in this thing. All of the radiators and waterblocks will also be G1/4, so I'm looking at probably 25+ G1/4 bottle necks even without doing the valve/d-plug idea thingy. Truth be told...I am a little worried about flow rate, but most of what I read says that dual pumps should handle this loop. If it doesn't, I'll have to look at adding another pump or two.


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Truth be told...I am a little worried about flow rate, but most of what I read says that dual pumps should handle this loop.


Not that many people have tried a septuple radiator quadruple SLI setup with 42 fans before eh?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Not that many people have tried a septuple radiator quadruple SLI setup with 42 fans before eh?


lol. Lets just say, you don't see it every day.


----------



## asg

Maybe you could get them to send you the fittings in pieces. Powdercoat them and then assemble after they have been baked.

Unless of course the roataries need some special tools for assembly.

Isn't there another manufacturer (Enzo Tech??, Not sure if that is the correct one) that makes fittings that look similar to the BitsPower ones? Have you tried asking them?


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ha! You just described engineers perfectly!


Alright now Chris, you pickin on us engineers?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yes, you are right....it will probably add some restriction to the loop. But I wouldn't guess it would add any more than all of the other G1/4 fittings I'll have in this thing. All of the radiators and waterblocks will also be G1/4, so I'm looking at probably 25+ G1/4 bottle necks even without doing the valve/d-plug idea thingy. Truth be told...I am a little worried about flow rate, but most of what I read says that dual pumps should handle this loop. If it doesn't, I'll have to look at adding another pump or two.


If you read my build log flow concept so far, you'll see that I am planning to use multiple G1/4" connections on the same radiator and 1/2" ID Y's in order to try to maintain unrestricted flow. The key is to use the 1/2" ID T's and Y's before going through multiple G1/4" places; that includes the rads, some of the water blocks, and other things. In your case, you will have 2 RAM blocks, 4 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, 2 motherboard blocks, and an Aquero block. You would want to force full pump pressure through the CPU block, but I would bet you can get much better flow rate if after it you ran through RAM, motherboard, and Aquero blocks in parallel to some extent. If it were me, I would also run through your GPUs in 2x2 parallel/serial. You had said that the water loop I proposed for my build log was pretty complicated, but if you're game, I can tinker with running some numbers and try to come up with an optimized design for having so many more blocks for you if you wish: would just need a complete list of WC components (including not listed ones, like tube length, 90's, 45's, qdc's etc) and any predefined requirements. The HL SR-1 rads only have a single set of G1/4" connectors, so there will still be some restrictions aside from the cpu, and the AC AMS rads have multiple albeit much more restricted flow rates; but who doesn't like a challenge.

I do have a concern that your stated two D5's, even at full setting 5 won't be enough to get through all the pressure drops and still have good enough flow rates, but I can play around with numbers and placement to see if it can be done if you like.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Alright now Chris, you pickin on us engineers?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmYDgncMhXw


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmYDgncMhXw


LOL! That is too funny. I am going to share it with my colleagues at work!


----------



## Quest99

*BITSPOWER* white fittings will go perfectly with the next build that I am presently designing. I am going with a black and white theme and I truly believe that they will give the build a prestigious look. Please consider making them as many of us think that they will become a hot seller.

Thank you for your time.

Quest99
[email protected]


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Alright now Chris, you pickin on us engineers?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmYDgncMhXw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> LOL! That is too funny. I am going to share it with my colleagues at work!


"Will he lead a normal life? No. He'll be an engineer."

Electrocutor.....this is too funny! Everyone must watch through to the end of the video. TPE-331.....My brother is a mechanical engineer, so that gives me a license to poke fun.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> *BITSPOWER* white fittings will go perfectly with the next build that I am presently designing. I am going with a black and white theme and I truly believe that they will give the build a prestigious look. Please consider making them as many of us think that they will become a hot seller.
> Thank you for your time.
> Quest99
> [email protected]


Quest....this is an awesome picture. I simply must learn how to do this. Was this also Sketchup?


----------



## bruflot

COMPUTERS Y U SO SEXY?!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> Maybe you could get them to send you the fittings in pieces. Powdercoat them and then assemble after they have been baked.
> Unless of course the roataries need some special tools for assembly.
> Isn't there another manufacturer (Enzo Tech??, Not sure if that is the correct one) that makes fittings that look similar to the BitsPower ones? Have you tried asking them?


Hey asg. After seeing the pictures that Axis took....it doesn't look like reassembly of the rotary fittings is something I want to be doing. I've played on the Enzo Tech site, and they have a lot of choices if you want to use barbs...but a much more limited collection of rotary angles and extenders. I'd much prefer a large Bitspower collection if possible. Lets see if they come through.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> If you read my build log flow concept so far, you'll see that I am planning to use multiple G1/4" connections on the same radiator and 1/2" ID Y's in order to try to maintain unrestricted flow. The key is to use the 1/2" ID T's and Y's before going through multiple G1/4" places; that includes the rads, some of the water blocks, and other things. In your case, you will have 2 RAM blocks, 4 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, 2 motherboard blocks, and an Aquero block. You would want to force full pump pressure through the CPU block, but I would bet you can get much better flow rate if after it you ran through RAM, motherboard, and Aquero blocks in parallel to some extent. If it were me, I would also run through your GPUs in 2x2 parallel/serial. You had said that the water loop I proposed for my build log was pretty complicated, but if you're game, I can tinker with running some numbers and try to come up with an optimized design for having so many more blocks for you if you wish: would just need a complete list of WC components (including not listed ones, like tube length, 90's, 45's, qdc's etc) and any predefined requirements. The HL SR-1 rads only have a single set of G1/4" connectors, so there will still be some restrictions aside from the cpu, and the AC AMS rads have multiple albeit much more restricted flow rates; but who doesn't like a challenge.
> I do have a concern that your stated two D5's, even at full setting 5 won't be enough to get through all the pressure drops and still have good enough flow rates, but I can play around with numbers and placement to see if it can be done if you like.


Electrocutor....actually, I'd be quite interested in seeing your mock-up of an extreme loop for my build. I'm intrigued by the Y-Block concept. If you have some time to design, take a shot at it. I don't yet know the actual blocks I'll be using though, although I'll lean towards less restrictive blocks. I fear there won't be anything out for the Asrock Extreme 11 quickly, so may not have board blocks....and I haven't decided on whether I'll use memory blocks (leaning this way though).

Do that thing you do!


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quest....this is an awesome picture. I simply must learn how to do this. Was this also Sketchup?


Thank you Chris!

Yes sir, along with 6 hours of rendering on Kerkythea.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> COMPUTERS Y U SO SEXY?!


True dat.


----------



## BlazinJoker

COMPUTERS WHY U SO EXPENSIVE?!


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> COMPUTERS WHY U SO EXPENSIVE?!


+1 LOL


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> COMPUTERS WHY U SO EXPENSIVE?!


Y U CARE?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Y U CARE?


Some of our wallets are not huge, overflowing, and dont grow themselves. thats Y WE CARE.

Note: This is not directed at anyone and not meant as an insult/offensive.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Y U CARE?
> 
> 
> 
> Some of our wallets are not huge, overflowing, and dont grow themselves. thats Y WE CARE.
> 
> Note: This is not directed at anyone and not meant as an insult/offensive.
Click to expand...

It was a joke lol


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> It was a joke lol


Y U POST JOKE AND NOT ALLOW ME TO UNDERSTAND IT WAS A JOKE?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Electrocutor....actually, I'd be quite interested in seeing your mock-up of an extreme loop for my build. I'm intrigued by the Y-Block concept. If you have some time to design, take a shot at it. I don't yet know the actual blocks I'll be using though, although I'll lean towards less restrictive blocks. I fear there won't be anything out for the Asrock Extreme 11 quickly, so may not have board blocks....and I haven't decided on whether I'll use memory blocks (leaning this way though).
> Do that thing you do!


For your rad setup, are thinking:
480 top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right
360 front right, front left
280 bottom back
?

Also, where did you plan to put the reservoir and will you any additional cosmetic reservoirs like 5.25" bay or waterfall side panel window?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> For your rad setup, are thinking:
> 480 top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right
> 360 front right, front left
> 280 bottom back
> ?
> Also, where did you plan to put the reservoir and will you any additional cosmetic reservoirs like 5.25" bay or waterfall side panel window?


For the pedestal will have two 480's (left and right) and the 280 will be in the back of the pedestal. Jim is working on some custom brackets that will allow this.

On top of the case the other two 480's.

One of the 360's will be on the motherboard side in the front of the case. The other 360 will be on the PSU side at the bottom of the main case (not the pedestal).


----------



## Axis24

My appologies cpachris.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Hey cpachris I do not mean to hijack your thread but you seem to have waaaaaaaaaay more people checking your build log than I do mine, I just need to know if anyone knows where I can get the brass inserts they use on the acrylic reservoirs to mount them in the optical drive bays?


50 lashes!


----------



## TheHarvman313

Bitspower, please make white fittings. They will definitely be a great seller. The paradigm is shifting away from the traditional colors. Modders as a rule do not like to repeat their designs and/or make copies of other designs. They like to be new and innovative. Please be new and innovative too!!!!!


----------



## Electrocutor

Spoiler: Suggested Flow Concept #1



Code:



Code:


  .-----.
  | Res |<-------------------------------.
  |     |<----------------.              |
  |     |<------.         |              |
  '-----'       |         |              |
     |          |         |              |
     v          |         |              |
   (480)        |         |              |
     |          |         |              |
     v          |         |              |
   (240)        |         |              |
     |          |         |          .---+---.
     v          |         |          |       |
   (480)        |         |        .---.   .---.
     |          |         |        |Brd|   |Brd|
    / \         |     .---+---.    |   |   |   |
   /   \        |     |       |    '---'   '---'
  v     v      (X)  .---.   .---.    ^       ^
(360) (360)     ^   |GPU|   |GPU|    |       |
   \   /        |   |   |   |   |  .---.   .---.
    \ /       .---. '---'   '---'  |RAM|   |RAM|
     Y        |AQ |   ^       ^    |   |   |   |
     |        |   |   |       |    '---'   '---'
     v        '---' .---.   .---.    ^       ^
   (480)        ^   |GPU|   |GPU|    |       |
     |          |   |   |   |   |    '---+---'
     v          |   '---'   '---'        |
   (480)        |     ^       ^        .---.
     |          |     |       |        |CPU|
     v          |     '---+---'        |   |
  .-----.       |         |            '---'
  | Res |->(D5)-+---------'              |
  |     |->(BP Dual D5)------------------'
  '-----'





Concept

Radiator sub-loop allows for water to run through radiators multiple times per water block cycle
(X) is a variable valve that can be set to increase GPU pressure/flow or decrease Air/Water delta T
CPU provided with highest flow rate of all blocks to allow best OC
GPUs given their own sub-loop to ensure high flow rate and supplied with fresh water
Parallel radiator sub-loops ensure that there is plenty of flow to the intakes of both pumps

Notes

It _may_ be possible to run this whole thing with just the BP Dual D5, but it would need to be on high (setting 5) and would likely still have significantly less flow than having the 3rd D5. You just need a ton of pressure to get through all of these blocks. Having the 3rd D5 also will allow both pumps to be run at lower settings without worry.
The Dual D5 was put onto the CPU sub-loop due to CPU, RAM, and Motherboard blocks being more restrictive as well as knowing that this sub-loop will contain a great many elbows and perhaps smaller ID tubing.
This design will likely evolve as I have not run calculations yet, so it's currently an idea and estimate of what would work best in a system with so many WC components.
I'm not sure what to do with that 280 radiator. You can stick it onto one of the 480-360-480, but looking at the case, doing so would require quite a bit of extra tubing just for a little 280.
Ignore the order of rads shown, as it will depend on actual installation, just make sure that they each include 2 480s and a 360. Likely, the order will be 360->480->480 or 480->480->360 to use the least amount of tubing.
Both reservoirs double as pressure equalizers between sub-loops, so if you do not have enough connectors on your reservoirs, you'll need cross-sub-loop Y's.
If the Aquacomputer radiators prove to be too restrictive, check their In/Out channels to see if you can set them up to run in 2-pass using T's instead of the usual 4-pass to increase flow.
I'll update this later as things change. Initial thoughts, cpachris?


----------



## cpachris

Intriguing. Extremely intriguing. A few questions first:

1) How are the 3 different loops ( or subloops?) connecting to the reservoir on top of the diagram? Some type of Q block?
2) Differentiate subloop from a separate loop, so I'm clear.
3) If X is a valve, when it is closed, would there be no flow to the aquaero? How does it decrease the temp delta?
4) So the radiators are separated with different streams of flow...but reconnect back at a reservoir before cycling again? Correct?

What do you think the benefits are in a subloop arrangement like this....versus just having separate loops?


----------



## BlazinJoker

I must say I've never put that much thought into the configuration of a WC'd loop. So I applaud you for doing all of that


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Intriguing. Extremely intriguing. A few questions first:
> 1) How are the 3 different loops ( or subloops?) connecting to the reservoir on top of the diagram? Some type of Q block?
> 2) Differentiate subloop from a separate loop, so I'm clear.
> 3) If X is a valve, when it is closed, would there be no flow to the aquaero? How does it decrease the temp delta?
> 4) So the radiators are separated with different streams of flow...but reconnect back at a reservoir before cycling again? Correct?
> What do you think the benefits are in a subloop arrangement like this....versus just having separate loops?


1) Ideally each of the connections you see would be an actual connection on the reservoir, this way the entry and exit to the reservoirs would not be a bottleneck. Having 4 is fairly common. If you end up not having enough connections on the res and don't want to drill additional G1/4" threads, you'll need to come up with a way to get to the number you want. With this flow concept, it really is necessary to have at least 3 connections on each reservoir to sustain flow: the 3rd incoming line (from the AQ/valve) could be Y merged into the other two lines (using reverse Y's if you had only 3 connections. If you're not going to have 3 connections on both reservoirs, let me know what you do have to work with and I'll come up with a different flow concept.

Code:



Code:


 ^   ^
 |   |
 |\ /|
 | Y |
 | | |

2) A sub-loop is a partial loop of the whole design, but all the sub-loops are connected to each other creating a single whole loop. Since it's a single whole loop, the air/water delta T is the same for all sub-loops thus full cooling is available to all components. A separate loop would have individual delta Ts for gpus and cpu/ram/brd loops, so one will likely run hotter than the other: in some cases people may prefer this if they want their delta T lower for CPU than GPU. Usually GPUs dump much more heat into the system than the CPU. I'll note here that initially I wanted to put all 6 of those radiators in series instead of 2x3 in parallel/series, but after looking at the aquacomputer flow rates, I second-guessed whether that would cause a bottleneck: if there isn't much difference in actual flow rate having all 6 in series, that would be a better option.

3) You would never want to fully close it so water still flows through the Aquero. Don't think of this as open or closed, but rather a variable lever for flow-rate. Opening the lever allows more flow through the radiators, which decreases delta T of the system by circulating through the radiators more than once so in effect you will actually be going through 8, 10, or more radiators instead of 6 for each time the water goes through the water block loops (which are much more restrictive). The more closed the valve becomes, the higher the flow/pressure will be going through the GPUs. After you have had the system running and at equilibrium, you would want to make small adjustments to the valve until you found the 'sweet spot' for GPU temp and delta T.

4) The biggest benefit is recirculating through the radiators multiple times. Like I mentioned above, ideally you would want all 6 radiators in series, but only if those Aquacomputer ones don't cause the flow to decrease. I suppose you could just run the Aquacomputer ones in parallel and the other 4 in series with them too (I probably should have done this and will update it later). Another benefit is that since it's all within the same loop, you are never "wasting" cooling potential like if one of your deltaT's is high and one low in a two separate loop setup.

[Edit]
Updated concept diagram to reflect better radiator arrangement


Spoiler: You can see my concern here






At 1.5 GPM, the SR-1 loses about .4 PSI whereas the AC loses 1.7 PSI (more than 4 times more restrictive)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> 1) Ideally each of the connections you see would be an actual connection on the reservoir, this way the entry and exit to the reservoirs would not be a bottleneck. Having 4 is fairly common. If you end up not having enough connections on the res and don't want to drill additional G1/4" threads, you'll need to come up with a way to get to the number you want. With this flow concept, it really is necessary to have at least 3 connections on each reservoir to sustain flow: the 3rd incoming line (from the AQ/valve) could be Y merged into the other two lines (using reverse Y's if you had only 3 connections. If you're not going to have 3 connections on both reservoirs, let me know what you do have to work with and I'll come up with a different flow concept.


Since all of the 480's are SR1's, there is only one inlet and one outlet. I've checked it out for potential taping of additional threads, and have some concerns. See picture:



There is not room on the sides for a G1/4 tapped hole, and having one on the opposite side of the existing threads would not work with placement of the rads. There DOES appear to be room on either side of the same plate where the existing threads are located and/or on the top. BUT....you see how the existing threads are built up with that cylinder of metal? The walls of the mini reservoir on the radiator are very thin, and I do not think they are thick enough to simply tap a new hole with threads. I think to gain addition inlets it would need to be drilled and then a thicker threaded insert would have to be soldered into place. This may be more complexity than I'm willing to tackle. Let me know how having only one inlet on the 480's impacts your designed solution.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> 3) You would never want to fully close it so water still flows through the Aquero. Don't think of this as open or closed, but rather a variable lever for flow-rate. Opening the lever allows more flow through the radiators, which decreases delta T of the system by circulating through the radiators more than once so in effect you will actually be going through 8, 10, or more radiators instead of 6 for each time the water goes through the water block loops (which are much more restrictive). The more closed the valve becomes, the higher the flow/pressure will be going through the GPUs. After you have had the system running and at equilibrium, you would want to make small adjustments to the valve until you found the 'sweet spot' for GPU temp and delta T.


Opening the valve would allow more flow....but it would be water that didn't have much heat dumped into it....right? Is your premise that the additional flow would help with the other streams of water that actually had heat dumped into them from the waterblocks? I guess that makes sense. If the streams are combining before entering the rads....the higher flow stream would positively impact flow on the lower flow stream (that contains all the heat). Interesting concept.

What are your thoughts on placement of the additional pump(s)? Would it make sense to get them into the loop right before the most restrictive components? Which may be the AMS rads.....


----------



## Electrocutor

1) I'm not sure why you're showing a radiator... the question was about the number of G1/4" connections that you have available on the reservoir, right? If you can figure out a way to make the AMS rads be 2-pass instead of 4, that would probably help though. I'm not sure how all those in and out G1/4" connections are configured inside.

3) I really don't think you would need another (4th) pump. If you were really heart set on it though, I would put it just after the top reservoir to push water through the rads. The thing is that the lower res in the diagram is already feeding dual-D5 (serial) and D5 pumps in parallel, so I really don't think you want or need a 4th.

[Edit]
I forgot to mention this before, but if you want to get the highest possible CPU overclock and will mostly be ignoring your GPUs, then you would probably be better off using 2 separate loops so the excess heat from your GPUs would not affect the delta T of your CPU loop. If you want to utilize all 4 GPUs and the CPU to equal extent, then having it setup in a single loop like this is better.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> 1) I'm not sure why you're showing a radiator... the question was about the number of G1/4" connections that you have available on the reservoir, right? If you can figure out a way to make the AMS rads be 2-pass instead of 4, that would probably help though. I'm not sure how all those in and out G1/4" connections are configured inside.
> 3) I really don't think you would need another (4th) pump. If you were really heart set on it though, I would put it just after the top reservoir to push water through the rads. The thing is that the lower res in the diagram is already feeding dual-D5 (serial) and D5 pumps in parallel, so I really don't think you want or need a 4th.
> [Edit]
> I forgot to mention this before, but if you want to get the highest possible CPU overclock and will mostly be ignoring your GPUs, then you would probably be better off using 2 separate loops so the excess heat from your GPUs would not affect the delta T of your CPU loop. If you want to utilize all 4 GPUs and the CPU to equal extent, then having it setup in a single loop like this is better.


You're totally right....I got turned around for a moment. I'm kind of liking the subloop idea. FrozenQ hasn't shipped my reservoirs yet, so I think I could get him to drill some extra inlets/outlets. I also LOVE your use of my 2nd reservoir. It was going to be primarily cosmetic before, because I like reservoirs....but in this concept it is somewhat functional.


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of card reader teardown

I chose the Rosewill USB 3.0 Card Reader, as pictured below:




I copy a lot of pictures/video from my cards to the computer, and I sure didn't want USB 2.0 to be the bottleneck. I have the CaseLabs 3.5 inch bay adapter with a crimson powdercoat on the outside, so from the front, only the black faceplate will show. I popped it off fairly easily with the tabs located on the side of the reader:



It's plastic, so I don't have the option of having it powdercoated. And I wouldn't want to try and paint it crimson to match, because even though my two color spraypaint combination (base of merlot and topcoat of crimson red) is a real close match for the case....its not exact, and if the two were next to each other, it would show. I think I'll live with the black, because its a small faceplate. I could tinker with using some carbon wrap if I wanted to give it a little bit different look. Will consider.

Next, I separated the top aluminum shell from the bottom:



It comes right off as long as the screws attaching it to the case bay adapters are not in place. After that, there were two small screws connecting the PCB to the bottom aluminum shell. Took these off, and the shell came off and PCB is now free:



There are two USB 3.0 connections on the PCB. Need to remove these, or I won't be able to sleeve these cables. One connector is attached with two small screws. I undid these and it came off easily. The second is just plugged into a socket on the PCB, but as you can see in the picture above, there was some gunk applied to make the connection more permanent. Click on picture above for close-up and you'll see what I mean. Took some work with an exacto knife, but I got rid of the glue gunk, and undid the second USB connection.



I haven't ever sleeved a USB cable before, but I'll give that a try. The aluminum shells only show from the inside of the case, so I think I'll have those powder coated white, to match the case interior. For the sleeve on the cables....I'll either use some custom dyed crimson sleeve, or white. Either option will be MDPC-X. I'll take a look at the faceplate as-is, and consider it for some black carbon fiber. Any other ideas on customizing this little card reader?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of card reader teardown
> 
> I chose the Rosewill USB 3.0 Card Reader, as pictured below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I copy a lot of pictures/video from my cards to the computer, and I sure didn't want USB 2.0 to be the bottleneck. I have the CaseLabs 3.5 inch bay adapter with a crimson powdercoat on the outside, so from the front, only the black faceplate will show. I popped it off fairly easily with the tabs located on the side of the reader:
> 
> 
> 
> It's plastic, so I don't have the option of having it powdercoated. And I wouldn't want to try and paint it crimson to match, because even though my two color spraypaint combination (base of merlot and topcoat of crimson red) is a real close match for the case....its not exact, and if the two were next to each other, it would show. I think I'll live with the black, because its a small faceplate. I could tinker with using some carbon wrap if I wanted to give it a little bit different look. Will consider.
> 
> Next, I separated the top aluminum shell from the bottom:
> 
> 
> 
> It comes right off as long as the screws attaching it to the case bay adapters are not in place. After that, there were two small screws connecting the PCB to the bottom aluminum shell. Took these off, and the shell came off and PCB is now free:
> 
> 
> 
> There are two USB 3.0 connections on the PCB. Need to remove these, or I won't be able to sleeve these cables. One connector is attached with two small screws. I undid these and it came off easily. The second is just plugged into a socket on the PCB, but as you can see in the picture above, there was some gunk applied to make the connection more permanent. Click on picture above for close-up and you'll see what I mean. Took some work with an exacto knife, but I got rid of the glue gunk, and undid the second USB connection.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't ever sleeved a USB cable before, but I'll give that a try. The aluminum shells only show from the inside of the case, so I think I'll have those powder coated white, to match the case interior. For the sleeve on the cables....I'll either use some custom dyed crimson sleeve, or white. Either option will be MDPC-X. I'll take a look at the faceplate as-is, and consider it for some black carbon fiber. Any other ideas on customizing this little card reader?


I heard SATA sleeve is good for USB.

Maybe make a shorter enclosure for it so you can put something (a res maybe?) in the rest of the 5.25 bay.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Chris, Unless your married to the Frozen res's, consider the EK advanced. They have a great deal of flexibility with regard to inlet-outlet configuration.


----------



## 3930K

Everyone,

Don't ever consider EK.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Everyone,
> Don't ever consider EK.


There are no issues with EK reservoirs and they are excellent.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Everyone,
> Don't ever consider EK.
> 
> 
> 
> There are no issues with EK reservoirs and they are excellent.
Click to expand...

Their blocks are low qual. I doint trust low-qual companies.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Their blocks are low qual. I doint trust low-qual companies.


No kidding with regard to the blocks, but their reservoirs are great. As for blocks I use Aqua.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I heard SATA sleeve is good for USB.
> Maybe make a shorter enclosure for it so you can put something (a res maybe?) in the rest of the 5.25 bay.


That's not a bad idea. I could cut-off the back 2/3 of those plates, if I only cared about keeping the screw hole that joins the top/bottom plates together. But, if I did that I would lose the enclosed back-end of the box. Not sure which would look cleaner. I'll consider it. Thanks.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I heard SATA sleeve is good for USB.
> Maybe make a shorter enclosure for it so you can put something (a res maybe?) in the rest of the 5.25 bay.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not a bad idea. I could cut-off the back 2/3 of those plates, if I only cared about keeping the screw hole that joins the top/bottom plates together. But, if I did that I would lose the enclosed back-end of the box. Not sure which would look cleaner. I'll consider it. Thanks.
Click to expand...

You could use feake carbon fibre to "tape" the back of it.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Chris, Unless your married to the Frozen res's, consider the EK advanced. They have a great deal of flexibility with regard to inlet-outlet configuration.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Everyone,
> Don't ever consider EK.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> There are no issues with EK reservoirs and they are excellent.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Their blocks are low qual. I doint trust low-qual companies.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> No kidding with regard to the blocks, but their reservoirs are great. As for blocks I use Aqua.


EK took a hit to their reputation with the nickel finish fiasco and how they handled it. I've been on that side of potential problems also, and the last thing a company should do is admit that there is a problem before they are sure about it themselves. If a company came out and apologized for problems everytime a forum thread had someone say they had a problem....it would be never ending. So I have a lot of empathy for EK. Plus, I think they ended up dealing with the situation fairly. New plating process, clear identification of old vs new process, and free returns if you have issue with the old plating products. You can't ask for much more than that.

I have not ever used their blocks or reservoirs, so I have no first hand experience. I think their products are attractive (well...maybe not those new block designs







). But as far as flexibility on placement of inlet/outlet.....FrozenQ will put as many as you want.... wherever you want them. Custom work is always provides a lot of flexibility. Plus...he's doing some special work for me to customize my sooner theme. Should have pictures soon!


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Chris, Unless your married to the Frozen res's, consider the EK advanced. They have a great deal of flexibility with regard to inlet-outlet configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Everyone,
> Don't ever consider EK.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> There are no issues with EK reservoirs and they are excellent.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Their blocks are low qual. I doint trust low-qual companies.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> No kidding with regard to the blocks, but their reservoirs are great. As for blocks I use Aqua.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> EK took a hit to their reputation with the nickel finish fiasco and how they handled it. I've been on that side of potential problems also, and the last thing a company should do is admit that there is a problem before they are sure about it themselves. If a company came out and apologized for problems everytime a forum thread had someone say they had a problem....it would be never ending. So I have a lot of empathy for EK. Plus, I think they ended up dealing with the situation fairly. New plating process, clear identification of old vs new process, and free returns if you have issue with the old plating products. You can't ask for much more than that.
> 
> I have not ever used their blocks or reservoirs, so I have no first hand experience. I think their products are attractive (well...maybe not those new block designs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But as far as flexibility on placement of inlet/outlet.....FrozenQ will put as many as you want.... wherever you want them. Custom work is always provides a lot of flexibility. Plus...he's doing some special work for me to customize my sooner theme. Should have pictures soon!
Click to expand...

Just a heads up, there's been a NEW nickel fiasco. And they're blaming it on distilled.

GTG now (well not really just off my rig, knowing me I'll post for another hr from my phone lol)


----------



## bruflot

Source?
I want to know more about this if there has been another fiasco, as I had planned to buy a H30 kit from EK.

Edit: The H30 kits does not include a nickel plated block, therefore my point above is irrelevant. But I'd still like to know more about it


----------



## Electrocutor

I don't think the real problem with EK had anything to do with the nickel issue: that was just a few products. It had to do with their handling of it and Sidewinder.

http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=201633#post201633
Quote:


> Truth be told, after we sent our EK Nickel products back, were issued proper credit and paid our last bill, we were going to continue to stock their copper blocks. That was, until, Eddy himself then demanded we pay EK a non-negotiable sum of $10,000 USD for damages we caused to their product line.


I can't speak for others, but I prefer not to support any company that shafts its own customers and resellers. This whole thing actually has a dedicated thread on OCN, so discussion can be done there: http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info


----------



## bruflot

As little as I want to support them, it's for the mostly the only way to get water-cooling parts in Norway apart from ordering international.


----------



## cpachris

I'm not going to dirty up this thread with my complaints about my AquaComputer customer service, but for those interested, I've started a separate thread here. Will be updating my # of days count each day until resolved.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> EK took a hit to their reputation with the nickel finish fiasco and how they handled it. I've been on that side of potential problems also, and the last thing a company should do is admit that there is a problem before they are sure about it themselves. If a company came out and apologized for problems everytime a forum thread had someone say they had a problem....it would be never ending. So I have a lot of empathy for EK. Plus, I think they ended up dealing with the situation fairly. New plating process, clear identification of old vs new process, *and free returns if you have issue with the old plating products.* You can't ask for much more than that.
> I have not ever used their blocks or reservoirs, so I have no first hand experience. I think their products are attractive (well...maybe not those new block designs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But as far as flexibility on placement of inlet/outlet.....FrozenQ will put as many as you want.... wherever you want them. Custom work is always provides a lot of flexibility. Plus...he's doing some special work for me to customize my sooner theme. Should have pictures soon!


Just for the record EK didn't offer free returns on the old plating because it was the right thing to do, in fact Federal Law prohibits any company from withdrawing or revising a given warranty for defects in materials and workmanship. We will never know what EK would have done if this law didn't exist!

Anyhow I love my EK-MultiOption RES X2 - 250 Advanced reservoir and have never had a problem, they seem to be well made.


----------



## merlinx76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Just for the record EK didn't offer free returns on the old plating because it was the right thing to do, in fact Federal Law prohibits any company from withdrawing or revising a given warranty for defects in materials and workmanship. We will never know what EK would have done if this law didn't exist!
> Anyhow I love my EK-MultiOption RES X2 - 250 Advanced reservoir and have never had a problem, they seem to be well made.


The law prevents them from going above and beyond the warranty?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Just for the record EK didn't offer free returns on the old plating because it was the right thing to do, in fact Federal Law prohibits any company from withdrawing or revising a given warranty for defects in materials and workmanship. We will never know what EK would have done if this law didn't exist!
> Anyhow I love my EK-MultiOption RES X2 - 250 Advanced reservoir and have never had a problem, they seem to be well made.


That's fair. I'll be an optimist and believe they would have done it anyway.









I've heard good and bad about their reservoirs....but I guess that is typical for a company selling as many units as EK does.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merlinx76*
> 
> The law prevents them from going above and beyond the warranty?


What would you have had them do other than replace any items that had corrosion? I think they did everything you could ask.


----------



## merlinx76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> What would you have had them do other than replace any items that had corrosion? I think they did everything you could ask.


He said that the law prevented them from offering free returns... I just find that very unlikely. I would think that law is to prevent a company from not living up to a warranty, not to keep them from doing even better than said warranty. I'm not speaking one way or another about how EK actually handled it or anything.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merlinx76*
> 
> The law prevents them from going above and beyond the warranty?


I believe you might be confused, you probably weren't there when all of this was going on, but at first EK denied all warranty claims that had corrosion and/or nickel flaking. It wasn't until EK was informed by a forum member that Federal Law prohibits withdrawing or revising a given warranty for defects in materials and workmanship. Do not confuse kindness (above and beyond the warranty) with following Federal Law for which only happened once EK became aware.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merlinx76*
> 
> He said that the law prevented them from offering free returns... I just find that very unlikely. I would think that law is to prevent a company from not living up to a warranty, not to keep them from doing even better than said warranty. I'm not speaking one way or another about how EK actually handled it or anything.


I don't read his comment to say that. I think he was saying that they had to STILL offer free returns, because that was their warranty. The company lived up to the original warranty.


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll take a look at the faceplate as-is, and consider it for some black carbon fiber. Any other ideas on customizing this little card reader?


I'd hate to give you even more work to do (that's a lie actually, anything I can do to stretch out this build and live vicariously through you) but have you considered somehow getting a copy of the faceplate made in steel? Then you'll be able to powdercoat it. Not sure where or how to get this made, but you'll figure it out


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll take a look at the faceplate as-is, and consider it for some black carbon fiber. Any other ideas on customizing this little card reader?
> 
> 
> 
> I'd hate to give you even more work to do (that's a lie actually, anything I can do to stretch out this build and live vicariously through you) but have you considered somehow getting a copy of the faceplate made in steel? Then you'll be able to powdercoat it. Not sure where or how to get this made, but you'll figure it out
Click to expand...

Why not magnetic spray painted?


----------



## merlinx76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I don't read his comment to say that. I think he was saying that they had to STILL offer free returns, because that was their warranty. The company lived up to the original warranty.


I get it now! I didn't read it that way at all. When I read that sentence, I put emphasis on the wrong words.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Nice build... Makes me wish I would have planned mine out a lot more better.


----------



## Electrocutor

Spoiler: Flow Concept Revision #2



Code:



Code:


  .-----.
  | Res |<------------------------------.
  |     |<---------------.              |
  |     |                |              |
  '-----'                |              |
     +---------.         |              |
     v         |         |              |
   (D5 )       |         |              |
     |         |         |              |
     v         |         |              |
   (480)       |       .---.            |
     |         |       |AQ |        .---+---.
     v         |       '---'        |       |
   (240)       |         ^        .---.   .---.
     |         |         |        |Brd|   |Brd|
     v         |     .---+---.    |   |   |   |
   (480)       |     |       |    '---'   '---'
    .|.        |   .---.   .---.    ^       ^
   /   \       |   |GPU|   |GPU|    |       |
  v     v      |   |   |   |   |  .---.   .---.
(360) (360)    |   '---'   '---'  |RAM|   |RAM|
   \   /       |     ^       ^    |   |   |   |
    'Y'        |     |       |    '---'   '---'
     |         |   .---.   .---.    ^       ^
     v         |   |GPU|   |GPU|    |       |
   (480)       |   |   |   |   |    '---+---'
     |         |   '---'   '---'        |
     v         |     ^       ^        .---.
   (480)       |     |       |        |CPU|
     |         |     '---+---'        |   |
     v        (X)        ^            '---'
  .-----.      |         |              ^
  | Res |------'        (X)             |
  |     |->(BP Dual D5)  |             (X)
  '-----'           |'---'              |
                    '-------------------'





Note that most of the flow discussion is taking place in PMs while the design remains fluid.


----------



## Celcius

Insane build, keep up the good work!


----------



## cpachris

Pictures and Video!

Lets face it.....pumps are ugly. So most people use some type of pump mod kit to make it a little prettier. And a pump top can improve performance and make it even quieter. I've got some pictures and video to show you what I'm doing. Here is a shot of all the stuff I'll be using:



Here are the items out of the boxes:



First....the pumps. I'm using the Swiftech flavor of the D5. The little red dial lets you manually control the pump speed, but I'm planning on some automated control.




See that little blue wire? You might not have it. But if you buy your D5's from Gary at Sidewinder, he will solder on an RPM wire for just a couple bucks extra. I wanted this since I'll be using the Aquaero to monitor and control the pumps.



Here is what the Bitspower Mod Kit for the D5 looks like:



This one is in Black Sparkle....but I may have it powder coated white. It's aluminum, so it shouldn't be a big deal.



And here is what the Bitspower Dual Pump Top looks like for the D5's.



If you don't have a pump top....get yourself one. Most of the testing shows they improve performance, and make the pump quieter.



They also give you some more flexibility and options on your ports.



These really can be installed fairly quickly. Below is a video showing the entire installation of both mod kits and the pump top. Takes less than 2 minutes.






That was fun! For those of you as old as I am, the song and speed will make you remember a great old TV show. Anybody get it?

Really the only tricky part is that you have to remove the pins from the molex connector and fan connector so you can slide them through the holes in the back of the mod kit plate. Also, you have to play with it a little bit when you are tightening it up to make sure that the speed control knob is aligned with one of those same holes.

Now clearly this thing isn't in its final form. Once I finalize pump placement, I'll make the wires custom length to the power source. I'll also sleeve the cables, and as I said, the mod kit may get powder coated. But...here are some pictures of the finished product if you were not going to do any of that other stuff.






Much better looking than when we started, eh?


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That's fair. I'll be an optimist and believe they would have done it anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard good and bad about their reservoirs....but I guess that is typical for a company selling as many units as EK does.


I still believe that EK makes the best reservoirs out there. I have two EK MultiOption 400's and they are beautiful. I'll never forget the day that I opened them up and removed them from their packaging. My immediate thoughts were, wowwwwww these remind me of the bongs I had in high school.


----------



## Quest99

Very nice pictures! Like always.







Why choose these pumps over Swiftech MCP 35x2? It got really good reviews with Martin and I remember reading somewhere that you read all of Martin's review.











http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/


----------



## TPE-331

Your pump setup looks great Chris. I've got three D5's in my two loops and the mod kits add a nice finishing touch..


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Very nice pictures! Like always.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why choose these pumps over Swiftech MCP 35x2? It got really good reviews with Martin and I remember reading somewhere that you read all of Martin's review.


That one was definitely my second choice. I think it was some of the noise level testing that made me lean toward this one. This chart is single pumps....but made me think the Swiftech 35X might be a little louder. I also wanted to use voltage control since I'll have the aquaero, so I wouldn't have used the PWM abilities of the 35X. Plus, I kind of like the look of the D5's better.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Nice build... Makes me wish I would have planned mine out a lot more better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Celcius*
> 
> Insane build, keep up the good work!


Thanks ProfeZZor X and Celcius!


----------



## TPE-331

Chris, powdercoat your pumps Crimson and white. The pump housings crimson and the pump top white. Or pump housings white and the pump top crimson. What do you have planned?







One cable sleeve crimson and the other cable sleeve white.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Chris, powdercoat your pumps Crimson and white. The pump housings crimson and the pump top white. Or pump housings white and the pump top crimson. What do you have planned?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One cable sleeve crimson and the other cable sleeve white.


The pump top is POM, so no powder coating options there. Mod kits are aluminum. I'll most likely powder coat the mod kits white....or if I end up with a copper theme, I could have them copper plated. Still waiting on my AMS copper fin radiators before I determine how much copper I'm going to use.


----------



## TPE-331

I don't know how that one slipped my mind, I forgot that the pump tops are POM.







I should have known better than that.







Either way, what you have planned sounds great. Can't wait for the pics.


----------



## cpachris

Oooooooo....some early pictures of what Alex (FrozenQ) has been working on for me.



The one on the left is a normal Liquid Fusion V done in my build colors. The one on the right has a piece on the inside with some inlaid acrylic for the OU logo, and some laser etching above and below that should light up nicely. I'm planning on using both reservoirs, with one on the PSU side and one on the motherboard side. Alex has done 3 inlets on each of these, so that I can try some of the insane subloop ideas that Electrocutor is being so kind to assist in designing. Electrocutor knows his flow. Quote that.

I'm super pumped (pun intended) about getting these, and should have them shortly. I'll do some better pictures once they have arrived.

Edit: Forgot to mention he's sending some extra rings that can cover the top and bottom black portions of each reservoir, that I will either have powder coated or copper plated, depending on how they look.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The pump top is POM, so no powder coating options there. Mod kits are aluminum. I'll most likely powder coat the mod kits white....or if I end up with a copper theme, I could have them copper plated. Still waiting on my AMS copper fin radiators before I determine how much copper I'm going to use.


The black sparkle on the mod kits is a type of nickel plating. If you want them copper plated you will need to strip off the current plating. Just fyi.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> The black sparkle on the mod kits is a type of nickel plating. If you want them copper plated you will need to strip off the current plating. Just fyi.


10-4 on that. I've found a place online that seems willing to tackle all of the plating issues that arise when dealing with already finished items. I'm considering having a bunch of screws copper plated, and they are black oxidized at the moment.....and they will cheaply strip the finish before plating.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 10-4 on that. I've found a place online that seems willing to tackle all of the plating issues that arise when dealing with already finished items. I'm considering having a bunch of screws copper plated, and they are black oxidized at the moment.....and they will cheaply strip the finish before plating.


Ok I just wanted to be sure you knew what was involved.


----------



## Electrocutor

Your reservoir inlay idea actually had me thinking about my days dunking printed circuit boards into an acid bath. If the reservoir has both red and white within it, what color of light are you planning to use?


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


I somehow can't stop thinking T Virus when I see that res, and your color scheme accentuates that even more ... my knowledge of Resident Evil isn't all that great but it's either the actual color used for the virus or the Umbrella logo that intensifies the impression.

As always a pleasure to keep up with your build, I get to see a bit more every day, keep it up


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I somehow can't stop thinking T Virus when I see that res, and your color scheme accentuates that even more ... my knowledge of Resident Evil isn't all that great but it's either the actual color used for the virus or the Umbrella logo that intensifies the impression.
> As always a pleasure to keep up with your build, I get to see a bit more every day, keep it up


Are you crazy? This looks nothing like Resident Evil! Not sure where you came up with that.


----------



## Quest99

Haha....what type of fluid/color are you going to use? what about UV light?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Haha....what type of fluid/color are you going to use? what about UV light?


Well, if like the reservoirs as much as I think I'm going to, I'll need to stick with distilled water, or at least something fairly translucent so that the etching shows up well. The insert on the reservoir can be removed, if I decide to go with deep colored dye. Mayhems has a new dye called "JovovichRed" which might look good.







I'm not really into the UV look, so probably nothing like that. But I might try it and see what it looks like. I think I'm going to prefer just a well lit inside through the use of some strip LED's around the edges and/or a luminous panel on the bottom (which I'm seriously considering).


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was fun! For those of you as old as I am, the song and speed will make you remember a great old TV show. Anybody get it?


No one knew the TV show? Man...I feel old.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was fun! For those of you as old as I am, the song and speed will make you remember a great old TV show. Anybody get it?
> 
> 
> 
> No one knew the TV show? Man...I feel old.
Click to expand...

Why were the orings unused?


----------



## Quest99

.Benny Hill.....am I supposed to feel old now? LOL


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> .Benny Hill.....am I supposed to feel old now? LOL


Awesome. Rep+ for knowing Benny Hill and admitting to the world that you're old.


----------



## Electrocutor

Instead of just normal white LED lighting, maybe try amber or flickering candle LEDs?


----------



## Quest99

Mayhem aurora looks sick. But I read that they clog your loop in no time and pearl effect leaves after 2 months of usage. Shame.....I really like the look of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbW1u9T_Su8&feature=relmfu


----------



## TPE-331

Wow Chris, those reservoirs look awesome, Alex does some incredible work. He powder coated my AX1200 white for me and it turned out fantastic. If you are looking for LED's for case lighting, I can vouch for these:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32236

I have them in my T10 and TH10. Best LED's I've ever bought.


----------



## engmitch

If you aren't making a dual-purpose bong/computer here, I think you really need to sit down and examine your priorities.


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Awesome. Rep+ for knowing Benny Hill and admitting to the world that you're old.


I take offense at that sir! I knew it was Benny Hill and I'm not old! ("less young" I could live with)









And indeed, those reservoirs look awesome.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Yeah I knew it was Benny Hill but didn't want to admit that I am getting older. Getting close to the Big 4 0!!! Love the reservoirs.


----------



## barkinos98

chris, man really appreciate your work and modding, but i think you should start showing progress on the build, not that i have a problem with computer pr0n


----------



## linkdiablo

I forgot it was called Benny Hill, but I knew that song and the classic scene associated with it and I'm not even 30.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I forgot it was called Benny Hill, but I knew that song and the classic scene associated with it and I'm not even 30.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Are you crazy? This looks nothing like Resident Evil! Not sure where you came up with that.





I see what you did there.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> I take offense at that sir! I knew it was Benny Hill and I'm not old! ("less young" I could live with)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And indeed, those reservoirs look awesome.


You must be very, very, very less young.







Do they even play it in syndication anymore?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Yeah I knew it was Benny Hill but didn't want to admit that I am getting older. Getting close to the Big 4 0!!! Love the reservoirs.


There's someone who will cop to their age! As a kid I used to stay up late to watch it because there was usually a gratuitous boob shot in the fast motion chase scene at the end.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I forgot it was called Benny Hill, but I knew that song and the classic scene associated with it and I'm not even 30.


Are you sure you're not 40?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> chris, man really appreciate your work and modding, but i think you should start showing progress on the build, not that i have a problem with computer pr0n


I'd have to agree with you. Let me explain my dilemma. I'm waiting on the Asrock Extreme 11 motherboard (WHICH IS BACK UP ON THE ASROCK WEBSITE TODAY....SO IT SHOULDN'T BE LONG!) to be released for my build. I don't want to purchase the CPU, RAM and Video Cards until I have the motherboard, because I don't have an easy way to test them and RMA if necessary within the RMA window, without having the board on hand also. And since I'm having to wait on the board before purchasing the main hardware....I haven't bought the waterblocks yet either....because you never know what else may come out before I pull the trigger. So...most of the hardware and blocks are in limbo waiting on the board. That doesn't leave me a lot of stuff to show off inside the case.

Can't even do final placement of radiators yet to show off. The 280 radiator that will go in the rear of the pedestal requires some special mounts for the 480's in the pedestal. Jim at CaseLabs has agreed to make these for me. He has also agreed to do the same crimson powder coat on a few additional faceplates/etc. that I have. My powder coat color is a two-step process, and quite a hassle for him. So....we've agreed that he will hold off doing the remaining crimson items from my original order (two different tops for the TH10) until I get him all of these faceplates, and he'll do one final crimson batch. Some of the faceplates will be for some AquaComputer items that I have not received yet (see my thread on this disaster here). So until Aqua stuff arrives, I can't even get the mounts for the radiators and finish up the fan wiring. Heck...I can't even decide where to put all the Aqua poweradjusts and know where the wiring goes.....until I get to play with them in person.

I'm also still trading emails with Bitspower on the fittings.

So I'm really close to having a lot of stuff that should allow me to start posting some more interesting pictures of the build in progress. But not quite there yet. Patience!


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'd have to agree with you. Let me explain my dilemma. I'm waiting on the Asrock Extreme 11 motherboard (WHICH IS BACK UP ON THE ASROCK WEBSITE TODAY....SO IT SHOULDN'T BE LONG!) to be released for my build. I don't want to purchase the CPU, RAM and Video Cards until I have the motherboard, because I don't have an easy way to test them and RMA if necessary within the RMA window, without having the board on hand also. And since I'm having to wait on the board before purchasing the main hardware....I haven't bought the waterblocks yet either....because you never know what else may come out before I pull the trigger. So...most of the hardware and blocks are in limbo waiting on the board. That doesn't leave me a lot of stuff to show off inside the case.
> Can't even do final placement of radiators yet to show off. The 280 radiator that will go in the rear of the pedestal requires some special mounts for the 480's in the pedestal. Jim at CaseLabs has agreed to make these for me. He has also agreed to do the same crimson powder coat on a few additional faceplates/etc. that I have. My powder coat color is a two-step process, and quite a hassle for him. So....we've agreed that he will hold off doing the remaining crimson items from my original order (two different tops for the TH10) until I get him all of these faceplates, and he'll do one final crimson batch. Some of the faceplates will be for some AquaComputer items that I have not received yet (see my thread on this disaster here). So until Aqua stuff arrives, I can't even get the mounts for the radiators and finish up the fan wiring. Heck...I can't even decide where to put all the Aqua poweradjusts and know where the wiring goes.....until I get to play with them in person.
> I'm also still trading emails with Bitspower on the fittings.
> So I'm really close to having a lot of stuff that should allow me to start posting some more interesting pictures of the build in progress. But not quite there yet. Patience!


Ive been waiting to get real involved for the guts to come in too








All the othe thing so far that youve posted were OK, ut not my thing and I dont know much about watercooling so I didnt have much input to supply :X Just sat back an watched.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'd have to agree with you. Let me explain my dilemma. I'm waiting on the Asrock Extreme 11 motherboard (WHICH IS BACK UP ON THE ASROCK WEBSITE TODAY....SO IT SHOULDN'T BE LONG!) to be released for my build. I don't want to purchase the CPU, RAM and Video Cards until I have the motherboard, because I don't have an easy way to test them and RMA if necessary within the RMA window, without having the board on hand also. And since I'm having to wait on the board before purchasing the main hardware....I haven't bought the waterblocks yet either....because you never know what else may come out before I pull the trigger. So...most of the hardware and blocks are in limbo waiting on the board. That doesn't leave me a lot of stuff to show off inside the case.
> Can't even do final placement of radiators yet to show off. The 280 radiator that will go in the rear of the pedestal requires some special mounts for the 480's in the pedestal. Jim at CaseLabs has agreed to make these for me. He has also agreed to do the same crimson powder coat on a few additional faceplates/etc. that I have. My powder coat color is a two-step process, and quite a hassle for him. So....we've agreed that he will hold off doing the remaining crimson items from my original order (two different tops for the TH10) until I get him all of these faceplates, and he'll do one final crimson batch. Some of the faceplates will be for some AquaComputer items that I have not received yet (see my thread on this disaster here). So until Aqua stuff arrives, I can't even get the mounts for the radiators and finish up the fan wiring. Heck...I can't even decide where to put all the Aqua poweradjusts and know where the wiring goes.....until I get to play with them in person.
> I'm also still trading emails with Bitspower on the fittings.
> So I'm really close to having a lot of stuff that should allow me to start posting some more interesting pictures of the build in progress. But not quite there yet. Patience!


i totally agree. btw, i thought you already bought the parts and etc, just wanted to show the modding process. also, why the asrock extreme 11? no fanboy here, but why not the Ultra Durable 4 mobos from Gigabyte? rampage iv extreme is too mainstream for this build and big bang power's heatsinks make me want to kill the designer of that board.


----------



## Quest99

Oh any news from Bitspower for the white fittings?


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> You must be very, very, very less young.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do they even play it in syndication anymore?


34, I only saw reruns








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Oh any news from Bitspower for the white fittings?


I was just wondering the same thing, did the posts in the thread help at all?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> why the asrock extreme 11? no fanboy here, but why not the Ultra Durable 4 mobos from Gigabyte? rampage iv extreme is too mainstream for this build and big bang power's heatsinks make me want to kill the designer of that board.


What sold me on the Asrock Extreme 11 was three main things:

1) 7 PCI 3.0 slots
2) 2 PLX chips that allow you to do 4-way SLI at 16 lanes for each card.
3) LSI chip for parity raid on 8 SAS/SATA ports

I'll use a dedicated raid card for a large raid 3 or raid 5 array for storage, and the onboard LSI chip to power a separate raid array for scratch disks and renders. Haven't found a Gigabyte board that had close to the same specs. I don't have anything against Gigabyte though....my current rig has a gigabyte X58 board in it.

The Extreme 11 page was up a couple of months ago, and then was taken down. It was put back up today I believe....so my guess is it should be in the hands of retailers soon. Or at least I hope. Link to Asrock Page.


----------



## 3930K

Sure, gigabyte is overkill and the rive is mainstream


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Oh any news from Bitspower for the white fittings?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> I was just wondering the same thing, did the posts in the thread help at all?


They posts in the thread couldn't have hurt. Bitspower says they will do the white fittings but are not quite ready. I've sent them a list of all the fittings I would want...and its a large order.







I've pointed them to this thread and pleaded that it would be a great way to launch their new finish...and asked if they could do a special run for me, or give me a date when they would be ready. Waiting to hear. Should know soon.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Are you sure you're not 40?


I'm pretty sure I'm 22, but you could ask my mom









Could you explain your choice of raid card, because I have a friend who's going to buy his 5th and 6th Agility 3 and wants to raid 0 a LOT of SSDs. I think he's going to pull the trigger on 7th and 8th as soon as he buys a raid card and I told him I would help him choose one. I might have to find him a 16 port SAS/Sata so he can plug more disks later.


----------



## solar0987

That case


----------



## Buska103

lol

how many fittings are you buying? That's intense.
I feel broke after buying 3 Phobya rotary adapters and a couple XSPC compression fittings


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I'm 22, but you could ask my mom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you explain your choice of raid card, because I have a friend who's going to buy his 5th and 6th Agility 3 and wants to raid 0 a LOT of SSDs. I think he's going to pull the trigger on 7th and 8th as soon as he buys a raid card and I told him I would help him choose one. I might have to find him a 16 port SAS/Sata so he can plug more disks later.


If your friend is really planning on Raid 0, then the Asrock board might be a cheaper solution for him. You don't really need a separate hardware raid card for Raid 0...and the Asrock could put 8 of them together in Raid 0. If he thinks he will add more disks at some point, then I don't think there is a motherboard solution that will satisfy.

This will be my first hardware raid card. I've got my on-board controller using 4TB's in a Raid 10 configuration in my current rig, but for parity raids....you really need a separate hardware controller. I spend a fair amount of time in the Adobe forums, because that is the primary software I play with. The choice of the Areca ARC-1882ix was based primarily on the experience and advice of the members of this forum. Most of them also said its a lot easier to be able to add more disks at some point, than to rebuild an array with all larger drives....so I agree with your advice to friend on getting as many ports on the card as you can afford now....even if you don't plan on using them all at this point. The only thing disappointing about this card is its still PCI 2.0. I would think they are working on a 3.0 version as we speak. They will probably release it the day after I purchase mine.











8 cards in a Raid 0, huh? Does he need that much speed or that much storage?


----------



## Electrocutor

Just remember the trick behind raiding SSDs. You don't get TRIM, so you have to use SSDs that include garbage collection and you have to remember to never fill them past the point where garbage collection fails.

That motherboard feature set really is quite something. I've tried many motherboard manufacturers over the years and have come to rely first on Soyo, then Asus; I've never owned an ASRock before though. Manufacturers that ended up in my 'avoid' category: Biostar, Gigabyte, and Foxconn. That's not to say that any of them are bad companies or make bad products, just that I've had so many bad experiences with them in the past I decided it just wasn't worth dealing with. With Asus, I can count on one of two scenarios: DOA or rock solid. Are ASRock motherboards pretty solid?

Since you're having pretty good luck getting companies to build new products for you, I wonder if you could convince someone to design a motherboard water block set for this ASRock Extreme 11.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> lol
> how many fittings are you buying? That's intense.
> I feel broke after buying 3 Phobya rotary adapters and a couple XSPC compression fittings


I'll post the list once its finalized and ordered....but it is somewhere around 150 fittings or so. I have the stupid idea to try and do a lot of fittings only (tubeless) connections between some of the rads and components. It will take a lot of fittings. Even if I were not going to try the fittings only approach in certain areas....I would need something like 30 compression fittings just to run tube! One of the hidden costs of having lots of radiators and blocks.


----------



## BlazinJoker

150 fittings.... I think I'm gonna pass out now just thinking of the cost for them....


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Just remember the trick behind raiding SSDs. You don't get TRIM, so you have to use SSDs that include garbage collection and you have to remember to never fill them past the point where garbage collection fails.


Good point. And also make sure you ask your buddy what type of data is on the raid array. One of the reasons for my choice of the Vertex 4 is that the Indilinx controller does a great job with non-compressable data sequential writes (think video...which I store a lot of). But it is not quite as fast as even its little brother Vertex 3, and some of the other Sandforce controller drives, with data that can be highly compressed. Sandforce controllers compress data before writing it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> That motherboard feature set really is quite something. I've tried many motherboard manufacturers over the years and have come to rely first on Soyo, then Asus; I've never owned an ASRock before though. Manufacturers that ended up in my 'avoid' category: Biostar, Gigabyte, and Foxconn. That's not to say that any of them are bad companies or make bad products, just that I've had so many bad experiences with them in the past I decided it just wasn't worth dealing with. With Asus, I can count on one of two scenarios: DOA or rock solid. Are ASRock motherboards pretty solid?
> Since you're having pretty good luck getting companies to build new products for you, I wonder if you could convince someone to design a motherboard water block set for this ASRock Extreme 11.


This will be my first Asrock. I have always bought Gigabyte in the past. Never really had a problem with them....but the wording in the Bios menus and help screens really cracks me up sometimes. It sounds like it was written by someone who does not speak English as a first language (and probably was). Lots of incorrect grammar.


----------



## sortableturnip

I've read that once you get to 4 drives in RAID 0 that really you have diminishing returns.

Have you thought of using that hard acrylic tubing instead of fittings (the exact name of the tubing escapes me atm)

Also, next time you have to splice 50+ fans, think about getting a wire stripper








I had a job making wiring harnesses for the US Govt. a couple of years back and these did the job quickly.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I've read that once you get to 4 drives in RAID 0 that really you have diminishing returns.
> Have you thought of using that hard acrylic tubing instead of fittings (the exact name of the tubing escapes me atm)
> Also, next time you have to splice 50+ fans, think about getting a wire stripper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a job making wiring harnesses for the US Govt. a couple of years back and these did the job quickly.


I've read the same thing on the 4 drives....but if I remember right....it was saturating a PCI 2.0 interface. Perhaps with PCI 3.0 we might get more bang out of a multi-SSD raid 0 setup?

I've seen some cool copper tubing runs (B-Negative has one going right now), but don't know anything about acrylic tubing. You mean just like PVC pipe? Wouldn't you still need fittings with that? Anyway...I'm not opposed to the fittings. They will be fun to play with.

I definitely used wire strippers when doing the fans. I have several pairs....but it wasn't real easy to find one locally that did 26 gauge wire. Most went down to 18 or 20. Finally found some though.


----------



## Whatts

There's talk about Intel adding raid 0 trim support to their RST drivers since about a year (should be version 11.5 that gets it), but nothing happened since the announcement. I was hoping this would be the catalyst for other manufacturers supporting it, so here's hoping...

Post a picture of your fingers after installing 150 fittings would ya?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Post a picture of your fingers after installing 150 fittings would ya?


Lol. Yeah....not looking forward to the aftermath of installation.


----------



## linkdiablo

My budy only has his OS plus one game and many disk benchkmarks, he's in for the e-peen, 120GB with his first two Agility 3 was enough for him. His raid size has tripled in the last month just for the sake of multiplying his write speed in benches (he doesn't do anything with that ... except load one or two game maps ...). I'll consider bus bandwidth since I think he's approaching a bottleneck with his raid on a card he doesn't have yet ROFL







Hopefully I can find him a 16 port 16x PCIe 3 card for 500$.

Anyone knows if HBAs can fit the bill, I've quickly seen some, they're less expensive than full blown raid cards and it looked like they can do stripping.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've seen some cool copper tubing runs (B-Negative has one going right now), but don't know anything about acrylic tubing. You mean just like PVC pipe? Wouldn't you still need fittings with that?


Wish I could remember where I find all these cool ideas. Maybe I should start bookmarking them when I find them









I've seen copper tubing before being used with compression fittings:



Found it! It's acrylic pipe. You would have to still use fittings for the bends:


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Found it! It's acrylic pipe. You would have to still use fittings for the bends:


Is that the Bitspower crystal link?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Is that the Bitspower crystal link?


Here is the project: Silverstone TJ11 Carbon by Richard Keirshieter


----------



## General121

Chris, pay attention to this:

You may not be in danger with ASRock if that was an expensive board, but my experience with them was HORRIBLE. I bought http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157271 Motherboard from them. Feature rich, looks nice, really seems like a fantastic deal ( was 134 when I got it and there were no other similarly featured motherboards near the price\in my budget). Started setting up my rig. Got everything in right, all hooked up. Death. Death. Death. Dr Debug gave a different error every single boot almost. It gave me error codes that werent even listed in the darn manual! Rant rant, bla bla bla, fast forward: Find out it had a bad memory slot. I would have been OK with it, but my father wasnt. He wanted me to have a FULLY working board and such. So we go to Newegg RMA. Well, newegg is silly with their RMA, requiring every scrap of paper that came with the motherboard. My dad threw out the box already. Whatever, we'll go directly through ASRock. Decent time of response, seem nice at first, but they eventually grant us an RMA. We box it up and ship it to em. They say a week or two later they shipped us working board and listed a bunch of confusing letter\word combinations of their "tests" saying they tested the memory and the "tests" indicated it fully working. They never bothered to explain what the tests were when we asked, but whatever. Board arrives. It came from Newegg oddly enough. It looked like they gave us back the same board or a used one!!! Thats Ridiculous! Aside that, I test it out, and find out, WOW, gee, Memory lane is defective AGAIN. Thats crazy. We had to push with them to grant us an RMA again and have them pay shipping. My father was done with them by then however, and got me the motherboard that is in my sig rig. The 3rd asrock board they sent to us as an rma is sitting boxed up waiting to be tested when we grab the rest of the parts to complete the kitchen general use PC. Very displeased with my experience.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Here is the project: Silverstone TJ11 Carbon by Richard Keirshieter


Wow. Just floated through it and it is one amazing build. Kind of funny how out of date some components can look after only 1 year...but the attention to detail is amazing in this build. He shows in some of the pictures though, that he is just using clear tygon tubing. I think it looks like acrylic pipe because he has it stretched so tight and straight. But he also mentions using Bitspower multi-link adapters...and my understanding was that those were for the crystal links. Unclear.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Chris, pay attention to this:
> You may not be in danger with ASRock if that was an expensive board, but my experience with them was HORRIBLE. I bought http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157271 Motherboard from them. Feature rich, looks nice, really seems like a fantastic deal ( was 134 when I got it and there were no other similarly featured motherboards near the price\in my budget). Started setting up my rig. Got everything in right, all hooked up. Death. Death. Death. Dr Debug gave a different error every single boot almost. It gave me error codes that werent even listed in the darn manual! Rant rant, bla bla bla, fast forward: Find out it had a bad memory slot. I would have been OK with it, but my father wasnt. He wanted me to have a FULLY working board and such. So we go to Newegg RMA. Well, newegg is silly with their RMA, requiring every scrap of paper that came with the motherboard. My dad threw out the box already. Whatever, we'll go directly through ASRock. Decent time of response, seem nice at first, but they eventually grant us an RMA. We box it up and ship it to em. They say a week or two later they shipped us working board and listed a bunch of confusing letter\word combinations of their "tests" saying they tested the memory and the "tests" indicated it fully working. They never bothered to explain what the tests were when we asked, but whatever. Board arrives. It came from Newegg oddly enough. It looked like they gave us back the same board or a used one!!! Thats Ridiculous! Aside that, I test it out, and find out, WOW, gee, Memory lane is defective AGAIN. Thats crazy. We had to push with them to grant us an RMA again and have them pay shipping. My father was done with them by then however, and got me the motherboard that is in my sig rig. The 3rd asrock board they sent to us as an rma is sitting boxed up waiting to be tested when we grab the rest of the parts to complete the kitchen general use PC. Very displeased with my experience.


Appreciate you sharing. I've heard of bad experiences that some people have had with every major board manufacturer in existence...so its tough to use individual experiences to rule a board out. I was ready for a change from Gigabyte boards....and the feature set on this one is incredible. So....I'll give it a shot.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Wow. Just floated through it and it is one amazing build. Kind of funny how out of date some components can look after only 1 year...but the attention to detail is amazing in this build. He shows in some of the pictures though, that he is just using clear tygon tubing. I think it looks like acrylic pipe because he has it stretched so tight and straight. But he also mentions using Bitspower multi-link adapters...and my understanding was that those were for the crystal links. Unclear.


Go here and look from post #202 to 209. Someone asks him about the Bitspower tubing and he replies that the 2 longer pieces are acrylic tube he did himself


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Go here and look from post #202 to 209. Someone asks him about the Bitspower tubing and he replies that the 2 longer pieces are acrylic tube he did himself


got it. thanks.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Appreciate you sharing. I've heard of bad experiences that some people have had with every major board manufacturer in existence...so its tough to use individual experiences to rule a board out. I was ready for a change from Gigabyte boards....and the feature set on this one is incredible. So....I'll give it a shot.


Yup. I think my motherboard was just lower end and they are trying to compete with higher end gaming boards so the few users who got that board like me were having issues maybe. Dont know. On newegg it does have like 70 1 star ratings on it pretty bad IMO but I haveheard some good things about higher end ASRocks. I hope for the best for your build!


----------



## barkinos98

brah here you go: http://www.overclock.net/t/1281659/asrock-x79-extreme-11-announced/0_100


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> brah here you go: http://www.overclock.net/t/1281659/asrock-x79-extreme-11-announced/0_100


Yes...back up on the website now...but still not available for sale. I sent an email to the one guy at Asrock that kept fielding my requests for updates while the board had been pulled from their website, specifically asking him when US retailers like Newegg would have the board available. His reply....."late July". So, we are getting close.







Two weeks or so away. I'll be checking each day, but if someone sees it actually listed for sale at Newegg or Amazon, let me know!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> What sold me on the Asrock Extreme 11 was three main things:
> 1) 7 PCI 3.0 slots
> 2) 2 PLX chips that allow you to do 4-way SLI at 16 lanes for each card.
> 3) LSI chip for parity raid on 8 SAS/SATA ports
> I'll use a dedicated raid card for a large raid 3 or raid 5 array for storage, and the onboard LSI chip to power a separate raid array for scratch disks and renders. Haven't found a Gigabyte board that had close to the same specs. I don't have anything against Gigabyte though....my current rig has a gigabyte X58 board in it.
> The Extreme 11 page was up a couple of months ago, and then was taken down. It was put back up today I believe....so my guess is it should be in the hands of retailers soon. Or at least I hope. Link to Asrock Page.


Just noticed that board requires 2 8-pin and 1 4-pin connectors


----------



## theseekeroffun

The 4-pin is for SLI, I just downloaded the manual.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> The 4-pin is for SLI, I just downloaded the manual.


A molex right in the middle of the board. That's going to be awkward.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> A molex right in the middle of the board. That's going to be awkward.


Tell me about it. My new one has one and it won't even post without it, even if you have only 1 weak gpu in. The best way to rought the cable IMO is to run it along the back of the top graphics card.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Tell me about it. My new one has one and it won't even post without it, even if you have only 1 weak gpu in. The best way to rought the cable IMO is to run it along the back of the top graphics card.


Asrock definitely needs to keep the placement of that molex connector on the list to change for the NEW EXTREME13!!!! jk.


----------



## bruflot

You should rename the project to "UBBB"


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> You should rename the project to "UBBB"


ok. I'll bite. UBBB?


----------



## bruflot

Unlimited Budget Boomer Box


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> A molex right in the middle of the board. That's going to be awkward.


There are actually two 4-pin connectors. The second one is outlined here.....



I have read through the manual, but it is not clear if you need to power both. My guess is that if you go 2-waySLI, you will need one, probably both if you go 4-way SLI.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Unlimited Budget Boomer Box


Everybody has a limit.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> There are actually two 4-pin connectors. The second one is outlined here.....
> 
> I have read through the manual, but it is not clear if you need to power both. My guess is that if you go 2-waySLI, you will need one, probably both if you go 4-way SLI.


The manual says that the 4-pin connectors are for fans...

- 2 x CPU Fan connectors (1 x 4-pin, 1 x 3-pin)
- 3 x Chassis Fan connectors (1 x 4-pin, 2 x 3-pin)

The manual also says this: "Currently Intel® Socket 2011 Sandy Bridge-E Processor doesn't support
PCIE 3.0, but this motherboard is already PCIE 3.0 hardware ready. It depends on Intel's CPU to enable PCIE 3.0. Please check Intel's website for information on future CPU updates and releases."


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> The manual says that the 4-pin connectors are for fans...


I believe you're mistaken between 4-pin fan headers and 4-pin molex connections


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> I believe you're mistaken between 4-pin fan headers and 4-pin molex connections


Yeah, I didn't see this: - 2 x SLI/XFire power connector









Anyone who wants to look at the manual here's a link


----------



## RedScorch

Every day I go I really hope the BBBB will happen and won't be a half finished project. Honestly this build is just so over the top there are no words I can think of to describe what it will be like when it's finished. Keep up the great work!


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedScorch*
> 
> Every day I go I really hope the BBBB will happen and won't be a half finished project. Honestly this build is just so over the top there are no words I can think of to describe what it will be like when it's finished. Keep up the great work!


i honestly dont think this would ever be a half build log. at least not after painting 42 (or maybe more) individual fans.unless chris sells them


----------



## Big Elf

The PCI-E slots are supposed to provide 75W of power for each card so it would make sense to have the each additional 1 x 4 pin molex type connector providing up to 150W for each pair of cards.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedScorch*
> 
> Every day I go I really hope the BBBB will happen and won't be a half finished project. Honestly this build is just so over the top there are no words I can think of to describe what it will be like when it's finished. Keep up the great work!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> i honestly dont think this would ever be a half build log. at least not after painting 42 (or maybe more) individual fans.unless chris sells them


Not a chance in the world of not finishing.









Last night I finally threw in the towel with AquaComputer and re-ordered almost all of the stuff from Aquatuning. If you haven't read about my AquaComputer experience....see this thread. So I'm fairly confident I'll have all of my Aqua stuff this week. I also made the executive decision to do the AMS rads white on the sides instead of crimson, which allows me to move forward with my final Caselabs transaction. Jim had run out of the custom Prismatic powder on my first order, and had to order more before he finished the top panels and some plates in my custom color. I asked him to hold off doing the final batch so I could send him some additional faceplates (some from Aqua...and the rads). Not getting the Aqua order kept that whole thing delayed. Now that I'm not going to do the AMS rad sides in crimson, I can move forward with Caselabs also. I sent Jim an email last night telling him that the remaining faceplates were on the way.

While I'm finalizing the Caselabs stuff, I also inquired about ordering two of the new XXL doors for my TH10, and one of the USB 3.0 retrofit kits....both of course done in the crimson color.

Additionally, since I fully expect my Asrock Extreme11 motherboard to be available for purchase sometime in the next week or two....things are going to start moving.

Build progress will remain slow for the next couple of weeks, while I wait for the AquaTuning stuff, Caselabs order, and the motherboard. Plus I'll be out-of-town on a Florida vacation and cruise the last week of July and 1st week of August....so no progress updates during that time. But I will try and show some progress before vacation on some custom wiring I'll be working on, ...selecting a color pattern for my 24 pin and 8 pin sleeving, and doing my custom dye batch for the MDPC-X sleeving....all before I get out of town on vacation. Once I return....build should move ahead full steam.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The PCI-E slots are supposed to provide 75W of power for each card so it would make sense to have the each additional 1 x 4 pin molex type connector providing up to 150W for each pair of cards.


So is the 75 watts part of the rated wattage for the cards?....or is that in addition to what Nvidia says the cards draw?

Wondering how much juice this box is going to be sucking from the wall at full load.


----------



## Big Elf

I believe it's part of the rated wattage for the cards. My system with just an overclocked i7 970 and a pair of overclocked 580 GTX draws 960W with the Heaven Benchmarks and about 640W with the 580's at stock settings so yours will probably need it's own Power Station.


----------



## runningtroll

dam that really sucks about aquacomputer







i waited 2 weeks for my case to come (on speicaltech's web site it said it was in stock but they ment "yeah its in stock just not our stock") turns out it was in stock at the manufactures lol (in germany also)

i Thought i was hard done by... but man 63 days my god you could of got a row boat and rowed there and back in that time lol, are they walking them to you though Russia and then down through Canada lol if not they lost your stuff


----------



## PCModderMike

Read through damn near every single page, and I'm hooked! Great work, I'll be creeping hard on this one


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> So is the 75 watts part of the rated wattage for the cards?....or is that in addition to what Nvidia says the cards draw?
> Wondering how much juice this box is going to be sucking from the wall at full load.


Chris, The 680's pull about 173 each under load and the 3930k @ 4.7 will pull 525 from the wall. In contrast, my 580's pull 240 each under load and my 990x pulls a little over 420 @ 4.6. Get two very good PSU's and balance the load as well as you can. Just my 2!


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Chris, The 680's pull about 173 each under load and the 3930k @ 4.7 will pull 525 from the wall. In contrast, my 580's pull 240 each under load and my 990x pulls a little over 420 @ 4.6. Get two very good PSU's and balance the load as well as you can. Just my 2!


How much does the 3930k pull at stock volt? I previously calculated an AX850 to be enough for a 3960x at stock volt + quadro + H100 ... your numbers make me think I may need to crank up the PSU.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> How much does the 3930k pull at stock volt? I previously calculated an AX850 to be enough for a 3960x at stock volt + quadro + H100 ... your numbers make me think I may need to crank up the PSU.


At stock, the 3930k pulls about 250-252 under load and about 130 at idle.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Chris, The 680's pull about 173 each under load and the 3930k @ 4.7 will pull 525 from the wall. In contrast, my 580's pull 240 each under load and my 990x pulls a little over 420 @ 4.6. Get two very good PSU's and balance the load as well as you can. Just my 2!


But does that 173 under load include only the power being supplied directly through the 6-pin connections....or does it also include the power coming from the molex connectors on the board?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> But does that 173 under load include only the power being supplied directly through the 6-pin connections....or does it also include the power coming from the molex connectors on the board?


173 watts is what they will pull per card. In reality it will probably pull almost all of that through the 6-pins, though it might pull up to 75 through the pci-e. I'm not sure how it balances it.


----------



## Quest99

Is there a link or a chart somewhere that tells us how much power these Pc Hardware "pulls" ? Maybe I should just start writing this stuff down!


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> At stock, the 3930k pulls about 250-252 under load and about 130 at idle.


No it does not, at stock under full load the 3930K uses about 130 watts of power according to Intels specs.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> No it does not, at stock under full load the 3930K uses about 130 watts of power according to Intels specs.


That is thermal design power. Not the amount of power it uses. Two different things.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Finally read through this whole build. I'm currently studying at UT, so it pains my heart a little to say this, but I can't deny that what you're putting together is pure awesome. Awesome job Chris!









(Hook 'Em.)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Read through damn near every single page, and I'm hooked! Great work, I'll be creeping hard on this one


Thanks Mike! It will creep along for a couple of weeks, but then should hit full steam. I'll try and keep everyone entertained along the way.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> Finally read through this whole build. I'm currently studying at UT, so it pains my heart a little to say this, but I can't deny that what you're putting together is pure awesome. Awesome job Chris!


A University of Texas student, huh? I'm not against UT. I think that school serves a valid purpose. Not everyone has good enough grades, or football talent, to make it into OU.....so we need schools like Texas also.


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> That is thermal design power. Not the amount of power it uses. Two different things.


Practically all power used by the CPU will be expelled as heat, and the TDP is exactly that. (At stock frequencies ofcourse)


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> So is the 75 watts part of the rated wattage for the cards?....or is that in addition to what Nvidia says the cards draw?
> Wondering how much juice this box is going to be sucking from the wall at full load.


I always look at the reviews on Hardocp when it comes to power numbers because they seem to be very thorough when it comes to their testing. Here they show that 3 gtx 680's and a 2600k @ 4.8 draw 700 watts max when playing games.

I sure hope Intel releases a i7 extreme processor that uses pcie 3.0 soon


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I always look at the reviews on Hardocp when it comes to power numbers because they seem to be very thorough when it comes to their testing. Here they show that 3 gtx 680's and a 2600k @ 4.8 draw 700 watts max when playing games.
> I sure hope Intel releases a i7 extreme processor that uses pcie 3.0 soon


As I understand it the current Core i7 3820, 3930K and 3960X already support PCIe 3.0 as does X79.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> As I understand it the current Core i7 3820, 3930K and 3960X already support PCIe 3.0 as does X79.


I think you're right, but it is confusing when you research. The Intel site's specs on the 3XXX processors have PCI 2.0 listed in the table of contents of the document, but when you get back into the meat of it, they clearly state that the CPU _supports_ PCI 3.0. I think they have to dance a little bit because it requires both the CPU and board (chipset) to enable PCI 3.0, so no one one wants to simply claim that they have a 3.0 solution. The new Asrock board I'm getting says it 'supports' PCI 3.0 for enabled processors. I think Intel is doing the same thing.


----------



## vonalka

There was a BIOS update that you needed to do in order to take advantage of PCE-e 3.0


----------



## deafboy

Interesting build...


----------



## cpachris

Some of you are subbed to the thread where I'm doing all of the custom color MDPC-X sleeve dyeing. I did another post tonight with an update on a new dye test. I took these items....



....threw them into this dye bath setup......



....and got these results....




For discussion and closeup pictures, see this post....or peruse the whole thread from the beginning.

At some point this week, I'll be doing my REAL dye job that this entire sleeve dyeing thread has been leading to. Instead of some sample lengths of sleeve....I'll be dyeing 100 meters of MDPC-X white sleeve, and turning it into my beloved OU crimson color. I'l also be doing some heatshrink, some connectors and some tubing. The whole dyeing testing thing has been a lot of fun.


----------



## phillyd

im so jelly...


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I took these items....


Am I the only one that sees sideways smilies in this pic?


----------



## RedScorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Am I the only one that sees sideways smilies in this pic?


I see them too!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Am I the only one that sees sideways smilies in this pic?


Definitely not.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Am I the only one that sees sideways smilies in this pic?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedScorch*
> 
> I see them too!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Definitely not.


Kind of 'drunk' smilies. Unintentional though.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I think you're right, but it is confusing when you research. The Intel site's specs on the 3XXX processors have PCI 2.0 listed in the table of contents of the document, but when you get back into the meat of it, they clearly state that the CPU _supports_ PCI 3.0. I think they have to dance a little bit because it requires both the CPU and board (chipset) to enable PCI 3.0, so no one one wants to simply claim that they have a 3.0 solution. The new Asrock board I'm getting says it 'supports' PCI 3.0 for enabled processors. I think Intel is doing the same thing.


It's weird because if you look at the i7-3770 series, Intel says it supports 3.0. It really makes it confusing to someone who is trying to upgrade...


----------



## sortableturnip

Oh, almost forgot, is there any chance that the dye you're using will come off and contaminate the liquid?


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Oh, almost forgot, is there any chance that the dye you're using will come off and contaminate the liquid?


I was wondering the same thing! As a teenager, I used to dye my jeans....man did I get yelled at by my sisters when that pair of jeans found itself with the " light color " load on laundry day....


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Oh, almost forgot, is there any chance that the dye you're using will come off and contaminate the liquid?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing! As a teenager, I used to dye my jeans....man did I get yelled at by my sisters when that pair of jeans found itself with the " light color " load on laundry day....


Well.....I've never actually done it before, so I guess i can't answer for sure. But even if some dye was released into the water once you have your loop in place, I don't think it would harm anything. I mean...some people are putting dye directly into their coolant to TRY and color it. And these dyes don't adhere to metal. Or at least most metal. My stainless steel pots and aluminum pots I'm using for the dye baths wipe clean with no effort. I'll be the guinea pig and try it.


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll be the guinea pig and try it.


Brave man, being the guinea pig with 7 rads, 150 fittings and lots of waterblocks. Maybe you could already set up a small trial loop with just a reservoir, pump, rad, the cheapest block and a bit of tube and some fittings? I'd hate to see anything go wrong with all your cooling hardware in one move...


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Brave man, being the guinea pig with 7 rads, 150 fittings and lots of waterblocks. Maybe you could already set up a small trial loop with just a reservoir, pump, rad, the cheapest block and a bit of tube and some fittings? I'd hate to see anything go wrong with all your cooling hardware in one move...


I was just thinking the same thing. I've heard that dye gunks up water blocks


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Brave man, being the guinea pig with 7 rads, 150 fittings and lots of waterblocks. Maybe you could already set up a small trial loop with just a reservoir, pump, rad, the cheapest block and a bit of tube and some fittings? I'd hate to see anything go wrong with all your cooling hardware in one move...


Brave?.....or dumb?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I was just thinking the same thing. I've heard that dye gunks up water blocks


Yeah, seen some pretty amazing pictures of blocks with junk in them. But for every story you hear like that, there are also people who say they have been running dye in their loop for 3 years without issue. Tough to know what to believe. I guess as long as the dye doesn't cause any corrosion....its easy enough to clean your blocks every now and then.

And for routine upgraders, all of the blocks will probably be replaced within three years or so anyway. Flash forward in your mind with me (dream sequence begins....soft music....hazy vision).....in three years, the 680 GTX will be a distant memory of a time when we SLI'd fewer than 10 cards together, and they still consumed more than 30 watts. The X79 chipset and the boards that have it will be fondly remembered as a quaint old fashioned time back when boards had fewer than 200 PCI lanes. Those LGA 2011 CPU's will be a beloved memory of a time when stock speeds were still less than 8 GHz and the silicon used was more than 5 nanometers. And of course all of the water blocks that we used for these items will remind us of a time when blocks were made of something other than adamantium.

It will be time for an upgrade.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll be the guinea pig and try it.
> 
> 
> 
> Brave man, being the guinea pig with 7 rads, 150 fittings and lots of waterblocks. Maybe you could already set up a small trial loop with just a reservoir, pump, rad, the cheapest block and a bit of tube and some fittings? I'd hate to see anything go wrong with all your cooling hardware in one move...
Click to expand...

This.


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Some of you are subbed to the thread where I'm doing all of the custom color MDPC-X sleeve dyeing. I did another post tonight with an update on a new dye test. I took these items....
> 
> ....threw them into this dye bath setup......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Picture!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....and got these results....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For discussion and closeup pictures, see this post....or peruse the whole thread from the beginning.
> At some point this week, I'll be doing my REAL dye job that this entire sleeve dyeing thread has been leading to. Instead of some sample lengths of sleeve....I'll be dyeing 100 meters of MDPC-X white sleeve, and turning it into my beloved OU crimson color. I'l also be doing some heatshrink, some connectors and some tubing. The whole dyeing testing thing has been a lot of fun.


Just a quick question, I see you are using the unshielded male fan connectors, is there a reason you use those over the shielded versions? It would seem to me that the shielded versions will make a more secure connection for at least your fan headers. Yes, it does mean more work to put pins on the end, but it's not that difficult.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12273/ele-773/FrozenCPU_3-pin_Male_Shielded_Fan_Connector_-_White.html?tl=g51c389s1348


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Just a quick question, I see you are using the unshielded male fan connectors, is there a reason you use those over the shielded versions? It would seem to me that the shielded versions will make a more secure connection for at least your fan headers. Yes, it does mean more work to put pins on the end, but it's not that difficult.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12273/ele-773/FrozenCPU_3-pin_Male_Shielded_Fan_Connector_-_White.html?tl=g51c389s1348


I probably should consider that, because I'm going to have a lot of male connections on the custom harness' I'm making. But wow....FrozenCPU is pretty proud of those. 75 cents each, without the pins? I paid like $5 bucks on Amazon for a pack of 100 of the regular male connectors. I might see if I can find a better deal on them somewhere.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Just a quick question, I see you are using the unshielded male fan connectors, is there a reason you use those over the shielded versions? It would seem to me that the shielded versions will make a more secure connection for at least your fan headers. Yes, it does mean more work to put pins on the end, but it's not that difficult.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12273/ele-773/FrozenCPU_3-pin_Male_Shielded_Fan_Connector_-_White.html?tl=g51c389s1348


They are even more expensive at Performance-pcs


----------



## bruflot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Just a quick question, I see you are using the unshielded male fan connectors, is there a reason you use those over the shielded versions? It would seem to me that the shielded versions will make a more secure connection for at least your fan headers. Yes, it does mean more work to put pins on the end, but it's not that difficult.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12273/ele-773/FrozenCPU_3-pin_Male_Shielded_Fan_Connector_-_White.html?tl=g51c389s1348


Pricey!


----------



## cpachris

Some pics of what the build looks like right now. Thank you to everyone who voted and steered me toward the crimson fan blades on white frames. I love they way they look in the case.




This spot is where I'll tackle the first custom fan harness. Something running right down the middle of these top two radiators, connecting all 8 of them to one cable going to the power source. It's something I can still work on while I'm waiting on my hardware.




And I'll also go ahead and get these little baby fans painted and doctored up this week. Need paint, sleeving and custom harness to connect them all together.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Some pics of what the build looks like right now. Thank you to everyone who voted and steered me toward the crimson fan blades on white frames. I love they way they look in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This spot is where I'll tackle the first custom fan harness. Something running right down the middle of these top two radiators, connecting all 8 of them to one cable going to the power source. It's something I can still work on while I'm waiting on my hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'll also go ahead and get these little baby fans painted and doctored up this week. Need paint, sleeving and custom harness to connect them all together.


Those fans are so cute!


----------



## General121

That....is as wide as like two or three dell computers...


----------



## bruflot

External radiators








Temporary, right?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> External radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temporary, right?


Nothing will be external. But I have 3 different size tops for this case. The standard, the 64mm, and the 85mm. So I could go this route, and still put a top on it that covers everything. What I plan to do is see how much room is left in the case before deciding which pieces go in the main compartment and which go in the top. Right now, I have the push fans in the main compartment and the rads and pull fans on top. But it will be covered no matter which direction I go.


----------



## Shiveron

Simply awesome. I hope I can afford to one day go balls to the wall with my favorite hobby like this. Hat's off sir.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> Nothing will be external. But I have 3 different size tops for this case. The standard, the 64mm, and the 85mm. So I could go this route, and still put a top on it that covers everything. What I plan to do is see how much room is left in the case before deciding which pieces go in the main compartment and which go in the top. Right now, I have the push fans in the main compartment and the rads and pull fans on top. But it will be covered no matter which direction I go.


OMG! Don't give me a heart attack like that!!


----------



## Wahoomcdaniel

I saw your teaser on [H]ard Forum and decided to check out your thread. Interesting build, and it only took me three days to get through to the end.
That is really a rich color that you chose.









I may have missed it, but is there any concern about the inefficiency of the push-pull fan design on your radiators?
I've read before that it can be inefficient and actually result in increased temps. And that's not considering the extra fan noise that your generate.
Just asking...

Anyway, I'll be checking this thread to follow your progress.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wahoomcdaniel*
> 
> I saw your teaser on [H]ard Forum and decided to check out your thread. Interesting build, and it only took me three days to get through to the end.
> That is really a rich color that you chose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may have missed it, but is there any concern about the inefficiency of the push-pull fan design on your radiators?
> I've read before that it can be inefficient and actually result in increased temps. And that's not considering the extra fan noise that your generate.
> Just asking...
> Anyway, I'll be checking this thread to follow your progress.


Hey Wahoo! Thanks for coming and checking it out.

Point me to the study you are remembering. I've seen oodles of studies that all seem to say that Push/Pull will always beat either push or pull. Some show it beats it by a little, some by a lot. But I've never seen one suggesting it could increase temps. Would love to read it though.

The fans are being undervolted and don't generate hardly any noise at all.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hey Wahoo! Thanks for coming and checking it out.
> Point me to the study you are remembering. I've seen oodles of studies that all seem to say that Push/Pull will always beat either push or pull. Some show it beats it by a little, some by a lot. But I've never seen one suggesting it could increase temps. Would love to read it though.
> The fans are being undervolted and don't generate hardly any noise at all.


I think he meant in your picture you have the top rads with the fans facing up, thus attempting to cool the rads using air that has already passed through another rad and also been heated by the motherboard/hard drives. If that is the case, he is correct in that your top rad fans should pull air down from the top into the case. Unfortunately, I think doing so would end up giving you an air pressure problem: 48 in vs 1 out would be an aweful bottle neck even with the fact that the air is being pulled through rads. In the shown configuration, you'd have 32 in vs 17 out. As odd as it may sound, I would actually have your two front 360 be the out instead of the top 480s. The 480s are much more efficient and higher performance rads than the 360s, so would benefit more from having the fresh outside air used.

You'll also want to have an air temp sensor inside the case. If your internal case temp exceeds your water temp (which is very likely with so many hard drives), it would actually be more beneficial to not have rads where the air exhausts as it would only serve to heat the water back up. I don't know how high you plan to run your fans, but you may experiment a little and if a single 120mm rear fan is actually enough on a higher setting to move all the air from all 7 rads blowing it in, then that would be the best option.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I think he meant in your picture you have the top rads with the fans facing up, thus attempting to cool the rads using air that has already passed through another rad and also been heated by the motherboard/hard drives. If that is the case, he is correct in that your top rad fans should pull air down from the top into the case. Unfortunately, I think doing so would end up giving you an air pressure problem: 48 in vs 1 out would be an aweful bottle neck even with the fact that the air is being pulled through rads.


I think most people understand the chicken and egg problem, and you just have to kind of go with what you think will work best. On the one hand, it would be great to have fresh air blow in across the radiators. The cool fresh air would improve radiator performance (marginally). But where is all that air blowing?....it would be blowing the radiator heated air into the case right at your components...which is what your trying to cool in the first place. On the other hand, if all of your radiators had air blowing out of the case across them, you would be blowing your component heated air across the radiators, and decreasing their effectiveness. And if you did them all one way or the other way, you would have either a real bad air pressure problem...either negative or positive.

So you kind of just have to design how you want your air flow to work, and know that not every radiator will be ideal. I think overall airflow is much more important anyway. Hot air rises, and I plan to utilize that in my overall airflow. The way I'm envisioning my airflow is take in air up through the bottom and in through the front, and expel it up through the top and out the back. I think the natural air flow and fans are going to keep air moving through the case, and that is more important in my mind than the order of whether its ambient>rad>component>exhaust, or any other combo. If you keep ambient air moving into your case and then out of it, ...that air is going to touch your rads and components. I think the order in which is touches them is less important than keeping air moving into the case and out of it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> In the shown configuration, you'd have 32 in vs 17 out.


17 out? Your discounting the HUGE impact my 4 baby 40mm fans will have!!!!







But seriously, I do think you need to consider the two PSU's which do exhaust air out the back. Plus, you really would have to look at the CFM being moved by the fans to compare the ins and outs. The only unimpeded fans in the whole mix, are on the back panel. The 120mm on the back will move more air out, than any single fan will move when bringing air in.

And there won't be close to 32 bringing air into the main case. Will be somewhere between 12 and 15....although not finalized. Most of the rest of the fans are in the pedestal in an across airflow...not blowing up into the main compartment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> As odd as it may sound, I would actually have your two front 360 be the out instead of the top 480s. The 480s are much more efficient and higher performance rads than the 360s, so would benefit more from having the fresh outside air used.


It might incrementally improve cooling performance of the top radiators...but it would hurt the overall airflow concept, and would also hurt the performance of the 360 rads. Trade-offs any way you go. I'm focusing most on a logical overall airflow. Cool air from the bottom is pushed to the top by fans, and as it heats up, it naturally rises more, and then is expelled out the top. Bottom to top. And all else being equal, it seems better to have a front to back airflow, rather than a back to front. The front air should be cooler and closer to ambient than the small spot in the back of the case between the case and the wall...where the PSU will be dumping heat no matter what I do, and the pedestal 280 will be dumping heat also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You'll also want to have an air temp sensor inside the case. If your internal case temp exceeds your water temp (which is very likely with so many hard drives), it would actually be more beneficial to not have rads where the air exhausts as it would only serve to heat the water back up. I don't know how high you plan to run your fans, but you may experiment a little and if a single 120mm rear fan is actually enough on a higher setting to move all the air from all 7 rads blowing it in, then that would be the best option.


I'll have 5 or 6 air temperature sensors located throughout the case, as well as 5 or 6 water loop temperature sensors. With all the drives being SSD's, I don't anticipate them generating a bunch of heat, but we'll see. I think they consume about 2 watts per drive, so even all 16 together should not be generating close to the amount of heat from any other component. I would expect the air temp inside my case to be comparable, or much lower, than similarly equipped rigs, just because its so much larger and has all the fans keeping the air moving. Easier to get some heat build-up in a small case without good airflow.

There is room on the back of the case to cut/mount additional 120mm fan holes above the current exhaust fan. Could be done on both sides. I'll wait and see what temps are like.


----------



## Citra

Love the contrast.









Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515a using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Wahoomcdaniel

Actually., I wasn't meaning to comment just on fan direction.
I don't have specific articles bookmarked that I can point you to.
But I recall watercooling discussions in the past that identified air turbulence from push/pull setups on a rad as decreasing efficiency.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Love the contrast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515a using Tapatalk 2


Thanks Citra.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wahoomcdaniel*
> 
> Actually., I wasn't meaning to comment just on fan direction.
> I don't have specific articles bookmarked that I can point you to.
> But I recall watercooling discussions in the past that identified air turbulence from push/pull setups on a rad as decreasing efficiency.


If you ever run across any again, post a link. That would be new info for me. I've included a picture below from my favorite tester, Martin, and his results on push vs pull vs push/pull testing:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/

He tests the air efficiency and the water/air temperature delta, for both high speed fans and low speed fans, in push vs pull vs push/pull, both with and without a shroud. The test is interesting and worth a read, but I'll summarize his findings quickly. The difference between push vs pull was minor....but push came out a little better. Push/Pull beat either push or pull, with a delta difference of up to two degrees lower. Shrouds don't always help, and sometimes hurt. Depends on the radiator and fans.

The other thing that this test shows, and has been consistent in almost every test I've seen, is that fan speed has much more of an impact on temperatures than fan configuration does.


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The other thing that this test shows, and has been consistent in almost every test I've seen, is that fan speed has much more of an impact on temperatures than fan configuration does.


But maybe not quite that much impact with your plenty-o-rads setup? My non-overclocked 2500K can idle at under 40° C without fans, it's a CPU only loop with Alphacool 360 (thick UT60) rad and GT AP-15 fans. The rad is overkill for my setup, and the difference between full load with fans undervolted at around 40% and at full tilt is 2, maybe 3° C.


----------



## 3930K

What makes me me cringe is that you powdercoated those rads for nothing, as you'll cover them up with the cover.


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> What makes me me cringe is that you powdercoated those rads for nothing, as you'll cover them up with the cover.


You'll still see them through the mesh, and plain black rads just wouldn't look as clean in this build.


----------



## phillyd

you should make a window for your rad cover


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you should make a window for your rad cover


Would need to be ventilated....but that is a cool idea.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you should make a window for your rad cover
> 
> 
> 
> Would need to be ventilated....but that is a cool idea.
Click to expand...

if the rad cover is mesh on top, and windows on the sides, no issues. or mesh on two sides, window on two sides. mesh on 4 sides, window on top. you pick


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> What makes me me cringe is that you powdercoated those rads for nothing, as you'll cover them up with the cover.


Makes you cringe huh


----------



## engmitch

Maybe a dumb question, but it looked like the fins were not masked off when you powder coated your radiators. Any concern that this affects heat transfer?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> if the rad cover is mesh on top, and windows on the sides, no issues. or mesh on two sides, window on two sides. mesh on 4 sides, window on top. you pick


Are you talking about the radiators on top? or in the pedestal? For the top section, the side panels wouldn't really be tall enough to have a window that showed much. But I kind of like the idea of replacing some of the vented metail top, with a vented window top. Hadn't really thought about the pedestal.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *engmitch*
> 
> Maybe a dumb question, but it looked like the fins were not masked off when you powder coated your radiators. Any concern that this affects heat transfer?


Probably impacts it some...but the fins were painted black by the manufacturer already when it arrived. All I did was strip that paint and powdercoat. I don't think it should impact heat dissipation significantly. Plus, they have a few 'brothers' that can help out if one of them doesn't work up to his full potential.


----------



## BlazinJoker

None of the brothers are too small either


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Are you talking about the radiators on top? or in the pedestal? For the top section, the side panels wouldn't really be tall enough to have a window that showed much. But I kind of like the idea of replacing some of the vented metail top, with a vented window top. Hadn't really thought about the pedestal.
> 
> Probably impacts it some...but the fins were painted black by the manufacturer already when it arrived. All I did was strip that paint and powdercoat. I don't think it should impact heat dissipation significantly. Plus, they have a few 'brothers' that can help out if one of them doesn't work up to his full potential.


i wouldnt have painted the fins, but as many rads as you have, it should do fine. and yeah you could do windows wherever they made sense


----------



## engmitch

As a point of interest, I work for a manufacturer of hvac coils. We provide a painted coil using a liquid electrodeposition tech similar to http://www.metokote.com/coatingTechnologies/ecoatProcessSpecifics.asp .
It allows for a much thinner coat than powder. The powder can often be thick which is an efficiency killer, acting as insulation between the fin and the airflow. Did your powder coater specify a thickness?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *engmitch*
> 
> As a point of interest, I work for a manufacturer of hvac coils. We provide a painted coil using a liquid electrodeposition tech similar to http://www.metokote.com/coatingTechnologies/ecoatProcessSpecifics.asp .
> It allows for a much thinner coat than powder. The powder can often be thick which is an efficiency killer, acting as insulation between the fin and the airflow. Did your powder coater specify a thickness?


No. But...I asked him to keep it light on the fins, and if you look toward the inside of them, you can actually still see the copper on the fins that re closer to the middle. Not much powder on the fins. If temps are unacceptable once hooked up, I could always sandblast again and then protect the fins when applying powder. But I really don't think it will be a problem.


----------



## engmitch

Too late to rework your color scheme to have copper be one of the primary colors?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *engmitch*
> 
> Too late to rework your color scheme to have copper be one of the primary colors?


At this point I'm waiting on getting some of the AMS copper fin rads (which AquaTuning says will ship this week!), to see how much I like the look of copper inside the build. I think I'll like it, but want to see this rad first to check it out first hand. It won't be a primary color, but if I like it I'll use copper accents in a lot of places. Found a place online that will copper plate screws for cheap, so I might see what that looks like also.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wahoomcdaniel*
> 
> Actually., I wasn't meaning to comment just on fan direction.
> I don't have specific articles bookmarked that I can point you to.
> But I recall watercooling discussions in the past that identified air turbulence from push/pull setups on a rad as decreasing efficiency.


That actually makes no sense. For fluids the most efficient means of transport is turbulent flow. There will be far less friction with the fins of the radiator with turbulent flow vs. laminar flow.


----------



## cpachris

Ok, I've got some pretty interesting news....especially if any one else is doing raid or planning raid arrays. I'm going to put it out there for you the same way it happend for me. The dialog below is a summary of an email conversation I started a few days ago.

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

*********************************

*Me to [email protected]*

I've been holding off making a purchase of a raid card in hopes of a PCI 3.0 version. Can you tell me if you have one planned, and if so, tentative timing?

****************************************
_*[email protected] to Me*_

Dear Sir/Madam,

we do have Gen3 raid card plan, but no confirmed release schedule yet. sorry for the inconvenience.

Best Regards,
Kevin Wang

****************************************

*Me to Kevin*

Thanks. Can you at least tell me if you think its a 2012 release...or are we talking about something in 2013?

****************************************

*Kevin to Me*

Dear Sir/Madam,

i am sorry, i did not been told anything about the schedule.

****************************************

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

Well, that was kind of what I expected to hear. And I do these types of emails to companies all the time, because you never know when you are going to get a loose lipped support rep that is new on the job, and he may give you an interesting tid-bit that you really shouldn't know. Anyway, after the exchange above, I guess the support rep (Kevin) passed the email on to someone in sales. I got copied on the message when the guy from sales (Joseph Chen) forwarded my original message to someone named Wayne Kou at Tekram. I'm not 100% sure of the relationship between Tekram and Areca, but I think Tekram is kind of a US sales and support team for Areca. If someone has additional information....chime in. Anyway, here is the exchange that followed after Wayne received my message from Joseph:

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

****************************************

*Wayne to Me/Joseph*

Dear Chris,

Thanks for the mail.

May I know how may ports (HDDs) of PCI 3.0 raid card do you need? I will check the right one for you.

************************************************

*Me to Wayne/Joseph*

Thanks for the reply. I will only have 8 drives hooked up to it to begin with, but was planning on either a 12 or 16 port so that I have room for expansion.

************************************************

*Wayne to Me/Joseph*

Hi Chris,

Most of Areca cards is PCI-e 3.0 already, but the web site did not reflect this new fact yet.
The 12 ports Arc-1882IX-12 and 16 ports Arc-1882IX-16 will meet your requirement.

If you need any areca card, you may go to to get one.

http://www.arecaraid.com/product_info.php?cPath=&products_id=135

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816151108

If you have any further question, please let me know.

*****************************************

*Me to Wayne/Joseph*

Thank you Wayne. But even the newegg link you sent goes to card that states that it is PCI 2.0 x8. Are you certain of the PCI 3.0 status? Is it still utilizing 8 lanes?

**************************************************

*Wayne to Me/Joseph*

Hi Chris,

I am 100% sure that is PCI-e 3.0, Areca told us not to update the web site yet.

Since Joseph, Head of Areca Sales, is also in this mail pool, He will pin point if what I stated is incorrect.

I just got 50 PCs shipment from Areca last night, if you order via
http://www.arecaraid.com/product_info.php?cPath=&products_id=135
I will guarantee you that you got the latest PCI-e 3.0.

***************************************************

*Me to Wayne/Joseph*

Wayne,
If it is truly PCI-e 3.0, then yes, I want one. Can you confirm that with a picture of the box or manual stating such? I'm just kind of surprised that you have one already.
Joseph,

Can you confirm that you have definitely upgraded these to PCI-E 3.0?

********************************************

*Joseph to Me/Wayne*

It's a PCI-e 3.0 version we shipped recently.
V3.0 printed on PCB silk screen.

**************************************

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

Well. What do you think about that? I'm still waiting on some type of confirmation/picture from Wayne, but I think Areca has stealthed a PCI-e 3.0 card out for us. Unless someone here has some info they think I should know....I'll be ordering one this week. Pumped!


----------



## BlazinJoker

Seems legit. It's great they already have it. Woot!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Instead of @@'s. Try :rule: .


----------



## FannBlade

Great undercover work. Way to slide in for a win!


----------



## cpachris

Another dye bath test last night, documented in this post.

Some of the output:


----------



## Electrocutor

Could I ask that you make a clear bowl with distilled + Nuke PHN and another with distilled + Nuke Cu and put some of your dyed tube samples into the bowls for a week or so and see if there is any color bleed into the water?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Could I ask that you make a clear bowl with distilled + Nuke PHN and another with distilled + Nuke Cu and put some of your dyed tube samples into the bowls for a week or so and see if there is any color bleed into the water?


Will do. I'll need to order some Nuke first though, so give me a few days.


----------



## 3930K

Also one with Distilled and silver coil?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Also one with Distilled and silver coil?


You bet.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> *You bet.*


+rep for being helpful


----------



## 3930K

+rep too.


----------



## cpachris

For tube testing....


----------



## 3930K

Are you using one Nuke -cu for yourself?


----------



## sortableturnip

I'm glad your order wasn't over a $1,000 this time


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I'm glad your order wasn't over a $1,000 this time


Ha! And I didn't order from AquaComputer!


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ha! And I didn't order from AquaComputer!


"touché"


----------



## cpachris

hmmmmm....they even sent me some pictures. this might be legit.


----------



## 3930K

They are blocking the pci express sign!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> They are blocking the pci express sign!


a little. but areca uses this version of the logo, so you wouldn't see any version # from it anyway.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Looks pretty legit to me!


----------



## Shiveron

You could almost build my entire computer for the price of that raid card :|


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ha! And I didn't order from AquaComputer!


I see what you did there








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> hmmmmm....they even sent me some pictures. this might be legit.


Damn, that looks like a tight squeeze getting a memory module in there. Wonder what the ram limit is on that? Also, only 3 (maybe 6 can't tell) SATA ports?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiveron*
> 
> You could almost build my entire computer for the price of that raid card :|


Both our PC's...combined...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Damn, that looks like a tight squeeze getting a memory module in there. Wonder what the ram limit is on that?


It comes with 1GB cache, and you can increase it up to 4GB for $150.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Also, only 3 (maybe 6 can't tell) SATA ports?


The one pictures has 12 internal ports and 4 external. Those are mini-sas connectors on the end of the card, which you connect to 4 sata drives each.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiveron*
> 
> You could almost build my entire computer for the price of that raid card :|


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Both our PC's...combined...


Nah. This version of the card would go for about $850. They have a 16 internal port that I could get for just under $1,000....which is what I think I'll do.


----------



## Electrocutor

I'm not sure if he's planning to use it or not, but the flow design I've been working on has evolved into this after some discussions in PM. It's not yet entirely complete as it doesn't include sensor data and what not, but I figured it would be a valid update from the previous flow design post.


Spoiler: Flow Design



Code:



Code:


     .-----.
     | Res |<----------------.
     |     |<------.         |              
     '-----'       |         |              
        |          |         |              
        v          |         |              
      (35X)        |         |              
        |          |         |              
        v          |         |              
      (480)        |         |       .-------.
        |          |         |       |   .---+---.
        v          |         |       |   |       |
      (240)        |         |       | .---.   .---.
        |          |         |       | |Brd|   |Brd|
        v          |     .---+---.   | |   |   |   |
      (480)        |     |       |   | '---'   '---'
  .-----+-----.    |   .---.   .---. |   ^       ^
  |    (X)A   |    |   |GPU|   |GPU| |   |       |
  v   .---.   v    |   |   |   |   | | .---.   .---.
(360) |AQ | (360)  |   '---'   '---' | |RAM|   |RAM|
  |   '---'   |    |     ^       ^   | |   |   |   |
  '-----+-----'    |     |       |   | '---'   '---'
        |          |   .---.   .---. |   ^       ^
        v          |   |GPU|   |GPU| |   |       |
      (480)        |   |   |   |   | |   '---+---'
        |          |   '---'   '---' |       |
        v          |     ^       ^   |     .---.
      (480)        |     |       |   |     |CPU|
        |          |     '---+---'   |     |   |
        v         (X)B       ^       |     '---'
     .-----.       |         |       v   C   ^
     | Res |->(35X)+-------->+<------+<-(X)--+
     |     |->(BP Dual D5)-------------------'
     '-----'

(X) = Valve





Flow Control

A : This controls water flow through the Aquaero water block. This was put in triple parallel with the AMS 360 radiators because of how ridiculously restrictive they are and further helps to allow better flow through the entire system. Depending on the settings of valves B and C, having this further open could significantly allow more recirculating flow through the entire radiator sub-loop.
B : This controls the flow rate of the recirculation sub-loop. The more open this valve becomes, the more radiator recirculating is done whilst decreasing the flow rate through the GPU water blocks causing the overall delta T to drop.
C: This controls the flow of fresh water directly from the pump to bypass the CPU sub-loop and go directly to the GPU sub-loop. Having it more open increases the flow rate through the GPUs and recirculating sub-loops (depending on B) and decreases the flow rate through the CPU sub-loop.
Combination: If both B and C are 100% closed, then the full pump pressure and flow from the dual D5 would go in directly serial through both the CPU sub-loop and GPU sub-loop with the GPU sub-loop gaining the flow rate from the 35x. Since the GPUs are in two by two parallel and series, effectively this makes the entire system run in a full serial loop.
Benefits

Full control over water flow through CPU, GPUs, and Radiators independant from each other. This allows for manual concentration of cooling for things such as benchmarks. For example, you could concentrate flow through the CPU sub-loop and radiator sub-loop (effectively leaving the GPUs with minimal cooling) while running CPU benchmark overclocks.
By means of the recirculation sub-loop, you gain repeat radiator flow; thus, you can effectively add and remove radiators from your loop simply by opening or closing valve B. This yields an infinitely variable delta T. If all 3 valves were 100% open, you would achieve the lowest possible delta T but neglect CPU and GPU block flow.
As long as B and C are not 100% open, the system has quad redundancy to varying degrees.
Allows you to cool all CPU and GPU blocks at the same flow rate with GPUs in parallel (less restriction) without needing 3 times the flow rate through serial radiators. Combining pumps and blocks in both parallel and serial allows for optimal water flow.
Having the AMS 360 radiators in triple parallel makes them significantly less impact on the flow rate of the system while maintaining the serial flow through SR-1s for best cooling. (a single AMS 360 has the same restriction as 4 SR-1 360s in serial)
Effectively uses two reservoirs as junction points for hot/cold water and low-high/high-low flow rate merging
Redundancy

If either 35X fails, reduced flow rate
If either D5 fails, reduced flow rate
If either D5 and either 35X fail, reduced flow rate
If both D5s fail: reduced flow rate, cpu would be cooled backward
If both 35X fail: reduced flow rate, about 80% decrease in cooling (D5 would start pulling water backward through bottom 35X), flow rate through GPU blocks would be minimal.
If any 3 pumps fail, the effect will be extremely dependant on what the B and C valves are set at. The only scenario I could say would still effectively cool all components for the long term is if the only pump left running were the bottom 35X. If the top 35X were left, the GPUs would be cooled fine, but the CPU would have minimal flow. If only a D5 were left, the CPU block would have flow, but the effectively no cooling.

Caveats

If you set valve B 100% open by accident, you effectively remove all GPU cooling. The only GPU block flow would be from the restriction of the valve itself.
If you set valve C 100% open by accident, you effectively remove all CPU cooling. The only CPU block flow would be from the restriction of the valve itself.
If 2 or 3 pumps fail, depending on which failed; the cooling could drop by 80% or so.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'm not sure if he's planning to use it or not, but the flow design I've been working on has evolved into this after some discussions in PM. It's not yet entirely complete as it doesn't include sensor data and what not, but I figured it would be a valid update from the previous flow design post.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Flow Design
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> .-----.
> | Res |<----------------.
> |     |<------.         |
> '-----'       |         |
> |          |         |
> v          |         |
> (35X)        |         |
> |          |         |
> v          |         |
> (480)        |         |       .-------.
> |          |         |       |   .---+---.
> v          |         |       |   |       |
> (240)        |         |       | .---.   .---.
> |          |         |       | |Brd|   |Brd|
> v          |     .---+---.   | |   |   |   |
> (480)        |     |       |   | '---'   '---'
> .-----+-----.    |   .---.   .---. |   ^       ^
> |    (X)A   |    |   |GPU|   |GPU| |   |       |
> v   .---.   v    |   |   |   |   | | .---.   .---.
> (360) |AQ | (360)  |   '---'   '---' | |RAM|   |RAM|
> |   '---'   |    |     ^       ^   | |   |   |   |
> '-----+-----'    |     |       |   | '---'   '---'
> |          |   .---.   .---. |   ^       ^
> v          |   |GPU|   |GPU| |   |       |
> (480)        |   |   |   |   | |   '---+---'
> |          |   '---'   '---' |       |
> v          |     ^       ^   |     .---.
> (480)        |     |       |   |     |CPU|
> |          |     '---+---'   |     |   |
> v         (X)B       ^       |     '---'
> .-----.       |         |       v   C   ^
> | Res |->(35X)+-------->+<------+<-(X)--+
> |     |->(BP Dual D5)-------------------'
> '-----'


Yes, this is what I'm leaning towards right now. Electrocutor, when you get some time, you might give your explanation of all the benefits this type of loop/subloop design has. I love the fact that with closing a few valves, its back to a single serial loop flow. Or by opening them some, I end up with the flexibility to control flow rates between the different subloops. Electrocutor has been kind enough to do a lot of the math for me on restriction caused by the different blocks in the loop or subloop, and make suggestion on required pump head required to achieve different flow rates through the different subloops. He seems to know his stuff.


----------



## 3930K

Am I the only one who doesn't understand those flow charts?


----------



## StormX2

Is it just me

or what Im most Interested in is

Storage

•Raid Controller: ARECA ARC 1882IX24 -- Hoping the inevitable PCI 3.0 version is released before I order.
•OS Drive: 2x 120 gb SSD Intel 520 Series in Raid 0
•Raid 5 Array (for storage): 8x 512 gb SSD OCZ Vertex 4
•Raid 0 Array (scratch drives, render drive): 4x 240 gb SSD Intel 520 Series

what a lovely setup


----------



## 3930K

May I reccomend a new setup for ya?

16 disk version of that RAID card.

4x 256GB Samsung 830 OS drive RAID 10 (or was it 01)
8x 1TB OCZ Octane RAID 6
4x 256GB Samsung 830 (scratch)


----------



## BlazinJoker

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> May I reccomend a new setup for ya?
> 16 disk version of that RAID card.
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 OS drive RAID 10 (or was it 01)
> 8x 1TB OCZ Octane RAID 6
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 (scratch)





I see what you did there








Why must newegg be out of stock of those 1tb SSDs!!! *cough* *cough* *low voice* they cost $2500 a piece...


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> It comes with 1GB cache, and you can increase it up to 4GB for $150.
> The one pictures has 12 internal ports and 4 external. Those are mini-sas connectors on the end of the card, which you connect to 4 sata drives each.
> Nah. This version of the card would go for about $850. They have a 16 internal port that I could get for just under $1,000....which is what I think I'll do.


I paid less than $800 for my system, so yeah your RAID card cost more than my system...water cooling included...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'm not sure if he's planning to use it or not, but the flow design I've been working on has evolved into this after some discussions in PM. It's not yet entirely complete as it doesn't include sensor data and what not, but I figured it would be a valid update from the previous flow design post.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Flow Design
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> .-----.
> | Res |<----------------.
> |     |<------.         |
> '-----'       |         |
> |          |         |
> v          |         |
> (35X)        |         |
> |          |         |
> v          |         |
> (480)        |         |       .-------.
> |          |         |       |   .---+---.
> v          |         |       |   |       |
> (240)        |         |       | .---.   .---.
> |          |         |       | |Brd|   |Brd|
> v          |     .---+---.   | |   |   |   |
> (480)        |     |       |   | '---'   '---'
> .-----+-----.    |   .---.   .---. |   ^       ^
> |    (X)A   |    |   |GPU|   |GPU| |   |       |
> v   .---.   v    |   |   |   |   | | .---.   .---.
> (360) |AQ | (360)  |   '---'   '---' | |RAM|   |RAM|
> |   '---'   |    |     ^       ^   | |   |   |   |
> '-----+-----'    |     |       |   | '---'   '---'
> |          |   .---.   .---. |   ^       ^
> v          |   |GPU|   |GPU| |   |       |
> (480)        |   |   |   |   | |   '---+---'
> |          |   '---'   '---' |       |
> v          |     ^       ^   |     .---.
> (480)        |     |       |   |     |CPU|
> |          |     '---+---'   |     |   |
> v         (X)B       ^       |     '---'
> .-----.       |         |       v   C   ^
> | Res |->(35X)+-------->+<------+<-(X)--+
> |     |->(BP Dual D5)-------------------'
> '-----'


cool flowchart +rep


----------



## Electrocutor

If anyone is interested, I updated that last flow design post with some information as cpachris requested.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> May I reccomend a new setup for ya?
> 16 disk version of that RAID card.
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 OS drive RAID 10 (or was it 01)
> 8x 1TB OCZ Octane RAID 6
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 (scratch)


Isn't the OCZ Octane series experiencing huge issues? Or is that just Petrol?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> May I reccomend a new setup for ya?
> 16 disk version of that RAID card.
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 OS drive RAID 10 (or was it 01)
> 8x 1TB OCZ Octane RAID 6
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 (scratch)
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't the OCZ Octane series experiencing huge issues? Or is that just Petrol?
Click to expand...

Link?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Dunno if/where I read that. I was asking in case you had heard anything similar.

Regardless, I'll never buy an OCZ SSD after all the issues they had with Vertex 2/3 when they were blaming customers for the firmware issues (that caused BSODs) and denying that anything was wrong.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Is it just me
> or what Im most Interested in is
> Storage
> •Raid Controller: ARECA ARC 1882IX24 -- Hoping the inevitable PCI 3.0 version is released before I order.
> •OS Drive: 2x 120 gb SSD Intel 520 Series in Raid 0
> •Raid 5 Array (for storage): 8x 512 gb SSD OCZ Vertex 4
> •Raid 0 Array (scratch drives, render drive): 4x 240 gb SSD Intel 520 Series
> 
> what a lovely setup


Thanks....I'm pretty pumped about it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> May I reccomend a new setup for ya?
> 16 disk version of that RAID card.
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 OS drive RAID 10 (or was it 01)
> 8x 1TB OCZ Octane RAID 6
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 (scratch)


The 1TB size of the Octane is nice...but it doesn't have as nice of specs as the Vertex 4. I'm also pretty sure you upped my budget by more than $10,000 with these changes.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> Dunno if/where I read that. I was asking in case you had heard anything similar.
> Regardless, I'll never buy an OCZ SSD after all the issues they had with Vertex 2/3 when they were blaming customers for the firmware issues (that caused BSODs) and denying that anything was wrong.


Crucial or Intel or Samsung be the way to go!


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Is it just me
> or what Im most Interested in is
> Storage
> •Raid Controller: ARECA ARC 1882IX24 -- Hoping the inevitable PCI 3.0 version is released before I order.
> •OS Drive: 2x 120 gb SSD Intel 520 Series in Raid 0
> •Raid 5 Array (for storage): 8x 512 gb SSD OCZ Vertex 4
> •Raid 0 Array (scratch drives, render drive): 4x 240 gb SSD Intel 520 Series
> 
> what a lovely setup
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks....I'm pretty pumped about it.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> May I reccomend a new setup for ya?
> 16 disk version of that RAID card.
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 OS drive RAID 10 (or was it 01)
> 8x 1TB OCZ Octane RAID 6
> 4x 256GB Samsung 830 (scratch)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The 1TB size of the Octane is nice...but it doesn't have as nice of specs as the Vertex 4. I'm also pretty sure you upped my budget by more than $10,000 with these changes.
Click to expand...











I liek blowing budgets


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Crucial or Intel or Samsung be the way to go!


I second that, never had issues with any of these, but plenty of BSODs with OCZ. Then again the Vertex 4 uses a completely different controller so who knows...


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> Dunno if/where I read that. I was asking in case you had heard anything similar.
> Regardless, I'll never buy an OCZ SSD after all the issues they had with Vertex 2/3 when they were blaming customers for the firmware issues (that caused BSODs) and denying that anything was wrong.


Maybe it was the users I have been running Vertex 3's in all sorts of situations from OS boot to 4 in raid setups for over a year now and haven't had a single issue or maybe I bought all the good ones.(LOL)
Anyway no need to dig up a dead dog I'm just saying.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Plextor has nice SSDs, MybadOmen used them and loved em


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Am I the only one who doesn't understand those flow charts?


nope


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Am I the only one who doesn't understand those flow charts?


Flow design actually... a flow chart is something quite different and significantly more evil.

Is there something specific that I could help you understand, or am I just too confusing? My co-workers don't allow me to directly contact clients anymore because I tend to confuse people by accident a lot.


----------



## cpachris

Take a shot at explaining it more. Took me awhile to understand it also, but it is the coolest single loop flow I've seen.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Take a shot at explaining it more. Took me awhile to understand it also, but it is the coolest single loop flow I've seen.


I guess I'll try...

Basically, you have a single loop design that uses both serial and parallel water flow in a bunch of places along with valves that you set and change however you want to manipulate where the water goes. The key feature would be that the radiators, CPU/RAM/Mobo blocks, and GPUs are each in their own sub-loops, so you can decide how much each one is in series or parallel with the others using the valves.

The purpose of doing it this way instead of have two seperate loops is so that none of the radiator cooling potential is wasted and also to provide a way to use the same radiators multiple times before going through the water blocks. That means that even if he has 7 physical radiators in the loop, the water is actually being cooled by 12 or 14 radiators each time it passes through the water blocks.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Not sure how that's possible but +Rep for making it possible


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Crucial or Intel or Samsung be the way to go!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> I second that, never had issues with any of these, but plenty of BSODs with OCZ. Then again the Vertex 4 uses a completely different controller so who knows...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Maybe it was the users I have been running Vertex 3's in all sorts of situations from OS boot to 4 in raid setups for over a year now and haven't had a single issue or maybe I bought all the good ones.(LOL)
> Anyway no need to dig up a dead dog I'm just saying.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Plextor has nice SSDs, MybadOmen used them and loved em


There are definitely lots of good drive choices out there right now. The reason the Vertex 4 makes the most sense for me is that my drives will be storing a lot of video/photo data that can not be compressed. Most drives out there right now use Sandforce controllers, and although they are fast...they obtain their write speed by compressing data before writing it to the drive. If you have a lot of highly compressible data...that is fine. But mine is not. And the Sandforce controller is not that fast at writes when it can't compress the data much. The V4's are built with a Marvel controller and firmware customized by OCZ's Indilinx group. The Vertex 4 is super fast at writes WITHOUT having to compress the data. It gives up some ground on raw read speed to some of the Sandforce controller drives, but its close....and will be faster on its writes for me. OCZ has also been really active with firmware updates for this drive. Seems to be their focus right now. Reasonably priced also.

I'm placing my storage orders (raid card and drives) within the next few days, so unless something bigger and better surfaces quickly....I think the Vertex 4's are for me. Still haven't completely made up my mind on whether the storage array is going to be Raid 3, 5 or 6. And I also am still putting some thought into the SSD's for the OS array and the scratch drives array.


----------



## Quest99

Will keep a very close look on your SSDs set up. I don't game, but picture and video editing along with 3D rendering is where my forte is at.







My future build will have the same raid set up as yours.









*pulls out pencil and paper sheets*


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The 1TB size of the Octane is nice...but it doesn't have as nice of specs as the Vertex 4. I'm also pretty sure you upped my budget by more than $10,000 with these changes.


Come on! You can make more! It's only money


----------



## TheHarvman313

I really like that flow design.


----------



## 3930K

Samsung 830s are better at writing (they lose a bit at reading...) AND they have well agreed reliability. I'd swap all the SSDs for Samsung 830 IMHO.
However, I do NEED that 12 bay RAID card. I've got 12 spaces for SSDs (well 13 if you count the hotswap bay)


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Samsung 830s are better at writing (they lose a bit at reading...) AND they have well agreed reliability. I'd swap all the SSDs for Samsung 830 IMHO.
> However, I do NEED that 12 bay RAID card. I've got 12 spaces for SSDs (well 13 if you count the hotswap bay)


I also have heard nothing but great things about Samsung 830s, my short list is the Samsung 830, Vertex 4 and the Crucial M4 SSD.


----------



## dogsofwar909

I'm extremely excited to see this fall together in coming weeks!!









Just ordered a bit for a new system myself, nothing compared to this behemoth, but it suits my needs as enlisted


----------



## superericla

Great build so far.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Samsung 830s are better at writing (they lose a bit at reading...) AND they have well agreed reliability. I'd swap all the SSDs for Samsung 830 IMHO.
> However, I do NEED that 12 bay RAID card. I've got 12 spaces for SSDs (well 13 if you count the hotswap bay)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I also have heard nothing but great things about Samsung 830s, my short list is the Samsung 830, Vertex 4 and the Crucial M4 SSD.


Here is a good recent head-to-head review with Vertex 4, Sammy 830, M4 and others. OCZ made such strides with their 1.4 firmware update that you really need to stick with reviews done with that firmware. This review also focus on imcompressible data. For me, a lot of videos and pictures, so I'm focusing on the imcompressible sequential write speeds and/or random writes at high queue depth. Most reviews show Vertex 4 leading Sammy under these simulated workloads. There really isn't a lot of difference on read speeds among the drives, but there is a fair difference on writes for my type of workload.

When selecting a drive...it really isn't about which drive is "better"....its about which drive is "better for what you do". Because trade-offs and compromises are made by every company when designing that drive.


----------



## 3930K

As you're buying so many drives I wouldn't risk the chance of ocz rma.


----------



## barkinos98

also, for such a high budgeted build, go for something non-SF. people say ocz is reliable too, but apparently the controller sucks. the reason i bought 830 256GB for my mac







but tbh i would go for the crucial m4 256GB since it is a little cheaper, but if you pay around $20-30 per ssd 830 will kick even more a$$.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> As you're buying so many drives I wouldn't risk the chance of ocz rma.


I'm still thinking about mixing it up and putting different drives in the scratch array vs storage array. That would allow me to do my own comparison benches. But....OCZ likes their new Vertex 4 so much they have upped their warranty from 3 to 5 years.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> also, for such a high budgeted build, go for something non-SF.


The Vertex 4 is non-SF.


----------



## 3930K

Oczs cs is akin to dhl's, and you only know that too well...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Oczs cs is akin to dhl's, and you only know that too well...


LOL. Ha! But it's actually AquaComputer's customer service I'm upset with. DHL's delivery sucks...but its Aquacomputer that should be fixing it for me.

It will probably come down to either Vertex 4 or the Sammy 830. Still poking around doing research. Leaving town for 10 days next Thursday, and I'm planning on placing the order before that. With my PCI-e 3.0 raid card now available, and the Asrock Extreme 11 available any day....its time to go ahead and pull the trigger on things.


----------



## 3930K

Also, have you thought of using pcie SSDs for your storage array?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Also, have you thought of using pcie SSDs for your storage array?


Have thought about it for the scratch disk array (raid 0), but they really wouldn't be feasible for the storage array.


----------



## 3930K

Afaik there was some 3.2TB pcie SSDs based on internal raid 5.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The Vertex 4 is non-SF.


yep found that out, was late and too lazy to edit







but that kinda screws everything up.anyway, i would go for a 4 ssd raid array (dont know which) and a 4-6 drive hdd raid if you need that much storage. 4 of the 512GB ssds will kick some major ass and also have enough capacity (my 500gb isnt even half full lol)


----------



## Quest99

Going to Florida on a family vacation? Any chance you are going to Joe's stone crab? I miss that place!









This means that we will get no updates!







But you deserve a vacation after all ....









Cheers!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Afaik there was some 3.2TB pcie SSDs based on internal raid 5.


Yes. I think they cost north of $20k. That's a lot of sandforce.







Feel much more comfortable going with an expandable solution also. Even though I'm starting with 4TB (and less than that usable), I'll have additional ports to expand. I have thought seriously though about some of those 1TB PCI-e solutions. But...I'm going to have a PCI slot issue already, which may require some compromises.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> yep found that out, was late and too lazy to edit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that kinda screws everything up.anyway, i would go for a 4 ssd raid array (dont know which) and a 4-6 drive hdd raid if you need that much storage. 4 of the 512GB ssds will kick some major ass and also have enough capacity (my 500gb isnt even half full lol)


In my 4 drive Raid 10 array right now, I've used up almost 2TB. At the rate I'm shooting video and pictures, I'll chew threw the next 2TB fairly quickly. I'm going to resist using HDD's as long as I can afford to expand the SSD's, just due to the noise. The clicks on hard drive seeks bother me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Going to Florida on a family vacation? Any chance you are going to Joe's stone crab? I miss that place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This means that we will get no updates!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you deserve a vacation after all ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


Thanks! Yes, taking the girlfriend and kids to Florida for 3 days in Orlando, and then we are doing a 7 night cruise. Is there a Joe's in Orlando? I don't think I've been to one before. Worth checking out?


----------



## Quest99

I only have been to the one in South beach as we were going to open a business down there. There are better restaurants than Joe's in South beach, but you have to go there at least once to try out their *key lime pie (the best I have ever had)* and of course their stone crabs.













What kind of videos are you shooting? Professionally filmed? I love your product photography, but I was wondering about your videos.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> I only have been to the one in South beach as we were going to open a business down there. There are better restaurants than Joe's in South beach, but you have to go there at least once to try out their *key lime pie (the best I have ever had)* and of course their stone crabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Quest is mean!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of videos are you shooting? Professionally filmed? I love your product photography, but I was wondering about your videos.


I am instantly hungry. That is unfair.

No...nothing professional, although I tinker with it enough in Premiere and After Effects so that some of them look professional. But...they are just family events, holidays, vacations, etc. Trying to capture as much of my kids lives as possible in pictures and video. They'll appreciate it when they are older.


----------



## asg

Joe's is the best, but closed for the summer. Not stone crab season....


----------



## cpachris

Here are some shots of my custom FrozenQ stuff I got this weekend.

I'm going to use a two reservoir setup to help equalize flow between several subloops:



Here is a black background behind it so you can see some of the laser etching a little better. It's an OU football helmet on top, and the Boomer Sooner logo on the bottom. The middle is crimson acrylic inlaid into a clear acrylic rectangle that runs from the top to the bottom.



I asked Alex (FrozenQ) to do 3 inlets on the top of each reservoir. One of the nice parts about ordering a custom res...is picking how many ports and where you want them.



...and 2 outlets on the bottom of each reservoir:



This picture shows the extra aluminum caps that you can order. They slide right over the black ends if you want to add a splash of color. These are painted copper, but if I choose to use the copper accents, I will have them actually plated copper. The paint just doesn't look like copper.




Some shots of the reservoir taken apart


Here is a closeup of the two outlets on the bottom of the reservoir...


...and you can see here when I flip the end around that the machining was a little loose. The threads run up the side of the reservoir cap. Don't think it will impact anything...but a little sloppy. Click the picture for a closeup and you will see what I mean.



I'll do some leak testing soon, but my first impression is a job well done by FrozenQ. I sent him some vector art and an idea via email, and he made it come too life. The price was not much more than the regular reservoirs that you can buy via his website....so I would encourage you all to dream up some big ideas and use him to make them. I'll update again after I leak test and get them installed. He doesn't turn around custom work very quickly....but I take that as a result of being incredibly busy and overwhelmed with custom requests. I don't consider it poor service since I was seeking something outside the norm.

My only complaint so far is that the cold cathode of course requires an inverter......which was not included. I'm sure that that was mentioned somewhere on the website....but it escaped me since I was doing my custom order via email. If you spend this much on a reservoir, it should come with everything necessary to turn it on.


----------



## Systemlord

Awesome reservoir, what is the life expectancy of those fluorescent tube?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Awesome reservoir, what is the life expectancy of those fluorescent tube?


Well, what did surprise me is that they are not lit directly. There is a cold cathode tube running up the middle. It's pulled out for these pictures, so you can't see it. But the tube is what lights up, and I guess the spiral tubes on the side just reflect the light. Won't know for sure until I get an INVERTER THAT WASN'T INCLUDED WITH THE RESERVOIR. I've got one ordered already from FrozenCPU, so I can show some shots all lit up next week.


----------



## barkinos98

that helix res







my friend ordered one with blood red/white and it looks killer







+rep for killing the waiting time


----------



## sortableturnip

Someone was up late last night









Res looks fantastic. Can't wait to see the parts you ordered from Aquatuning come in today


----------



## legoman786

I'm sure my wife would let me make a crazy case like yours, if I'd theme it similarly to yours.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> that helix res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my friend ordered one with blood red/white and it looks killer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep for killing the waiting time


Thank you sir. FrozenQ does a nice job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Someone was up late last night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res looks fantastic. Can't wait to see the parts you ordered from Aquatuning come in today


They came! Quick pic below....more pictures tonight of the stuff.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> I'm sure my wife would let me make a crazy case like yours, if I'd theme it similarly to yours.


Your wife is clearly a very intelligent woman.


----------



## Quest99

Finally the forbidden package arrives! Cheers! Have a glass of red wine on me!









Cannot wait for udpates!!!









Oopss....just read your other thread. This is the AT not the AC!









Well the good news is you have new gear and we get updates!

I didn't know that the *Aquacomputer aquaero 5 XT* was back in stock! I would have ordered one.


----------



## General121

Ordered a ASUS 670 TOP, and a razer deathadder Friday. The wait is killing me, like how it kills all of us when we are expecting a package. My 670 should come tomorrow.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> They came! Quick pic below....more pictures tonight of the stuff.


Woop Woop!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> I didn't know that the *Aquacomputer aquaero 5 XT* was back in stock! I would have ordered one.


FrozenCPU has 13 A5 XT's left. I also got an LT because I need more than 6 power adjusts. I don't want to run more than 8 fans per PA2, so I'll stick the LT somewhere as a second aquaero, and put in some additional power adjusts.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> that helix res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my friend ordered one with blood red/white and it looks killer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep for killing the waiting time
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you sir. FrozenQ does a nice job.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Someone was up late last night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res looks fantastic. Can't wait to see the parts you ordered from Aquatuning come in today
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They came! Quick pic below....more pictures tonight of the stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> I'm sure my wife would let me make a crazy case like yours, if I'd theme it similarly to yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your wife is clearly a very intelligent woman.
Click to expand...









a smartphone pic!


----------



## cpachris

Poweradjust 2 Ultra Pictures

Everyone has seen pictures of PowerAdjust 2's before, but here are pictures of my new ones. This is what comes in the box:



In addition to the actual PowerAdjust unit, you get a USB cable, an AquaBus cable, Power cable (3pin to molex/3pin), and a super handy manual written in German.







Here are some shots of everything taken out of the packaging:



Here are some shots of the PowerAdjust 2 unit itself:






Here is a closeup of the "AquaBus" cable. Its a fan cable, so please don't ever pay for one of these thinking you really need it. Any 3pin fan cable will do.



The sleeving on the "AquaBus" cable leaves a lot to be desired. Its a kind of netting that still shows all of the wires underneath it. These will need to be redone for sure.



Here is the power cable. The 3pin is attached to the power out on the PA2, and its setup to use with pumps. The molex connector goes to the pump and the other 3pin is for reading rpm's. I'll probably tinker with redoing these and making the output from my fan just a 3pin and connect it directly to the PA2 without this split.



Here are some fun pics of what 6 of them look like lined up.







asg and several others have done some much prettier wiring of these, so I'm going to take a stab and doing some custom wiring for the AquaBus and the power cables. My thought is to put most of the PA2's down in the pedestal, so that there is airflow moving across them all the time. I'm connecting a fair amount of fans to each one, and I've heard some people talk about the thermal protection kicking in with only a few fans attached when they were undervolting them. So I want to make sure these stay cool. There should be great airflow between the two radiators down in the pedestal.

More later......


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of my two new AMS Radiators. Getting these makes me remember why I wanted them in the first place. I find the copper incredibly beautiful. I got two 360's. There are lots of port options, and they feel incredibly well built.








And here are some pictures just sitting them inside the case, so you can see what the copper looks like with my crimson color. I love it. I had been waiting to see if I was going to like copper, and putting these in here seals it for me.






Even though I love the copper, I need to do something about the aluminum side panels. Copper will be the accent color, so I need to minimize or eliminate any of the silver/chrome/aluminum finishes in the case. I'm going to do the sides of the AMS radiators either black, or powdercoat them white.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Chris,

Just me, but I don't think the copper looks good with your color scheme. I would paint them personally, but that is just me.
Congrats on getting the AC Gear. Did you get the H20 block for the A-5?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Chris,
> Just me, but I don't think the copper looks good with your color scheme. I would paint them personally, but that is just me.
> Congrats on getting the AC Gear. Did you get the H20 block for the A-5?


Copper's not for everyone....but it floats my boat. Got the girlfriends seal of approval also.

Yes, I got the water block. Two of them actually. I'm going to run one aquaero XT and one LT. I didn't want to take up another 5.25 bay with a second XT. From what I've read about AquaSuite....my guess is I won't use the remote control or the touchscreen buttons much anyway. Trying to save some 5.25 bay space for a lighting effect I've been thinking about. My plan is to have the XT hooked up to 6 PA2's, each running the following:

PA1 - Pump 1
PA2 - Pump 2
PA3 - 8 push fans on pedestal 480 rads
PA4 - 8 pull fans on pedestal 480 rads
PA5 - 8 push fans on top 480 rads
PA6 - 8 pull fans on top 480 rads

The LT will have between 4-6 poweradjusts, with the following mapped out so far:

PA1 - Pump 3
PA2 - Pump 4
PA3 - 6 push fans on the AMS rads
PA4 - 5 exhaust fans on back of case
PA5 - 2 push fans on back 280 rad in pedestal
PA6 - 2 pull fans on back 280 rad in pedestal

That should leave the 4 channels on the aquaero free for miscellaneous case fans and/or lighting.


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of flow and temperature sensors.

I got 3 flow sensors, not because I'll have 3 loops, but Electrocutor has been tinkering with a design that does include some subloops and running certain items in parallel, so there will be different flow at different parts of the loop. It's still a single loop....but its a very complicated single loop.







Obligatory box shot:



Items out of boxes:


The AquaComputer flow sensor is a great looking little device:


Some artsy shots:



If you look back at the 3 pins coming out of the flow sensor....they are set fairly wide apart. This cable is required to connect it to either a PA2 or the Aquaero unit. For the life of me, the only reason I can think of to make these pins that far apart, is so that people will feel like they need to buy the cable from Aqua instead of just using an extra fan header. And the cable does NOT come with the flow sensor, so be prepared to buy one. If you can find one of those big funky 3pin headers, it would still be easy to make one yourself....but I wouldn't know where to start looking. But, I'll still make it a custom length and get it sleeved.



And here are some other sensors.


I'm planning on having multiple water sensors and lots of air temperature sensors. The charts/graphs coming out of the Aquasuite look like they could be a lot of fun, and the more sensors you have, the more ways you have to control all the items hooked up to the Aquaero.


----------



## sortableturnip

Love the rads! Reminds me of a Lytron heat exchanger I had in a build years ago. Copper rad and stainless steel and it was bigger than the PC case. Wish I still had it...


----------



## Dirkonis

Little late but, holy **** that case is amazing.

edit: just checked the whole thread, everything is amazing lol.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Love the rads! Reminds me of a Lytron heat exchanger I had in a build years ago. Copper rad and stainless steel and it was bigger than the PC case. Wish I still had it...


How big was it? Hard to get a feel for dimensions from the pic.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirkonis*
> 
> Little late but, holy **** that case is amazing.
> edit: just checked the whole thread, everything is amazing lol.


Thanks Dirkonis!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> How big was it? Hard to get a feel for dimensions from the pic.


How big is it? That's rather a personal question, isn't it?









The rad was 12in x 23in x 2.5in

Here's a link here

Picked it up on ebay years ago for a song (I think around $50-$100)


----------



## Quest99

Wow....those rads are awesome just the way they are.










I am curious as how many sensors you will be having in total?

So far :

3 flow sensors

Air temperature ?
Liquid temperature?

Are there other types you will be including?

Looks like you killed Aquacomputer PA stock! Hehe


----------



## Electrocutor

So do all 3 ins and all 3 outs go to the same point within the radiator or do they go to different points in the 4-way radiator flow in those AMS rads?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> How big is it? That's rather a personal question, isn't it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rad was 12in x 23in x 2.5in
> Here's a link here
> Picked it up on ebay years ago for a song (I think around $50-$100)


Wow...that's big. And no....don't even go there.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Wow....those rads are awesome just the way they are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am curious as how many sensors you will be having in total?
> So far :
> 3 flow sensors
> Air temperature ?
> Liquid temperature?
> Are there other types you will be including?
> Looks like you killed Aquacomputer PA stock! Hehe


Not sure how many I'll eventually end up with, but the air temperature sensors are dirt cheap (just a few bucks) so I'll probably populate them all over the place. Probably between 5 and 10. For the water temperature sensors, I'll have one in both reservoirs, and then at least one in each of the subloop areas. The way Electrocutor's proposed recirculating subloop will work....I think there may actually be a fairly big difference between water coming out of the radiator part of the loop, and water coming out of the cpu or gpu subloop. But....will never know till we measure it, so I'll have between 4 and 6 water temp sensors if you count the ones in the reservoir. Those are freebies since they don't add to the restriction in the loop at all.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> So do all 3 ins and all 3 outs go to the same point within the radiator or do they go to different points in the 4-way radiator flow in those AMS rads?


Not sure. Let me disassemble and get back to you with pictures. Need to take the sides off anyway for some powder coating.


----------



## FannBlade

Nice! My next build will use those rads.


----------



## sortableturnip

Be aware that those rads are very expensive. A 2x120 start at $150 and those only have aluminum fins! The copper ones start at $200?!?

I'd rather get one of these for $70


----------



## Blaze0303

God this things going to be a metric ton when its finished lol


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> So do all 3 ins and all 3 outs go to the same point within the radiator or do they go to different points in the 4-way radiator flow in those AMS rads?


Short answer is...all 3 ins to the same point, and all 3 outs to the same point. Pictures below:

The sides of the AMS rads come off fairly easy with a handful of screws:



The black top with the inlets and outlets DOES NOT come off fairly easy. The 10 allen head bolts holding this on are very tiny and because of where they are located, you can't really turn them more than 1/3 turn each time. Perhaps if I had a ratchet driver for the allen head, it would have been easier. But this took about 30 minutes just to get this top off.



The vantage point of the black top in this picture is as-if it has been hinged to the pipe plate at the top and flipped upward. So the very top of the picture has the part of the black top that will be at the bottom of the pipe plate when it is flipped back down.



Notice the 2 holes drilled in the black top in the picture above? All 3 inlets lead to one of the holes, and all 3 outlets lead to one of the holes. Inside the black top are channels that are below the surface that connect the ports on the outside to the holes you see above.

In the picture below, if you click the picture to make it large, you may be able to make out one of the channels for the 'out' port. The 'in' port (on the left) continues in a channel inside the black top all the way down to the inlet hole. The 'out' port on the right has a channel starting to drop almost immediately after the hole starts. You can see it if you look close. This wold lead directly to the hole you see at the top of the picture above.



The design of these things is actually pretty neat. I know that some of the tests don't show great performance under low flow...but perhaps they just need more flow to shine. Hope that helps.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The black top with the inlets and outlets DOES NOT come off fairly easy. The 10 allen head bolts holding this on are very tiny and because of where they are located, you can't really turn them more than 1/3 turn each time. Perhaps if I had a ratchet driver for the allen head, it would have been easier. But this took about 30 minutes just to get this top off.


You need a set of these:










The ball end allows you to work at a bit of an angle:










It says 25° but I have found that they work well at more than that.

Personally I will always pay more for higher quality tools, they last longer and do a better job - which usually works out cheaper in the long run.


----------



## sortableturnip

That design looks looks overly complex and inefficient. I wonder why they designed it like that.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

I guarantee they ran fluid analyses on it. It's probably quite efficient, which is why it looks so complex.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> I guarantee they ran fluid analyses on it. It's probably quite efficient, which is why it looks so complex.


I guess it's because I subscribe to the concept of KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Generally a very good theory!


----------



## engmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> 
> That design looks looks overly complex and inefficient. I wonder why they designed it like that.


Wouldn't you want to see the circuiting of the far side before judging it inefficient? Maybe after cpachris rests his allenwrench hand for a bit he could get a pic of the other side?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> I guarantee they ran fluid analyses on it. It's probably quite efficient, which is why it looks so complex.


Actually, all flow tests have confirmed that they are just over 4 times more restrictive than an SR-1 radiator. So, 4 SR-1's in series vs 1 AMS for the same flow rate.

I can think of several ways that the flow could be improved by modifying the end caps, but that's not something you want to do with a brand new radiator.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *engmitch*
> 
> Wouldn't you want to see the circuiting of the far side before judging it inefficient? Maybe after cpachris rests his allenwrench hand for a bit he could get a pic of the other side?


My observation is based on (1) how other radiators handle incoming and outgoing flow and (2) reviews I've seen regarding flow rate/pressure drop

If you look at different radiators, you normally see a split between incoming and outgoing:



There is a straight flow between incoming and outgoing (straight up and straight back)

In this review, it shows the flow rate/pressure drop of the aquacomputer is the highest of the radiators tested:


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Actually, all flow tests have confirmed that they are just over 4 times more restrictive than an SR-1 radiator. So, 4 SR-1's in series vs 1 AMS for the same flow rate.
> I can think of several ways that the flow could be improved by modifying the end caps, but that's not something you want to do with a brand new radiator.


Or just run the rads in parallel, I know a lot of people are against it but if they are the same type it's not a big deal. Rads don't gain performance with flow the same way blocks do.

Part of their design may have been to allow multiple loops to run on the same radiator - they have a 1/3 2/3 split end cap option.

I'd love to review some of those radiators. Radiator testing is even more annoying than cpu testing though.


----------



## sortableturnip

Found a couple of naked pics of the board here





Hopefully you can come up with a plan of attack regarding liquid cooling the chipset


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Or just run the rads in parallel, I know a lot of people are against it but if they are the same type it's not a big deal. Rads don't gain performance with flow the same way blocks do.
> Part of their design may have been to allow multiple loops to run on the same radiator - they have a 1/3 2/3 split end cap option.
> I'd love to review some of those radiators. Radiator testing is even more annoying than cpu testing though.


If you noticed the flow design I suggested, It has these rads in triple parallel to try to help compensate for their flow issues. I've not seen or heard of any alternative end-caps, where did you see them listed?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> You need a set of these:
> Personally I will always pay more for higher quality tools, they last longer and do a better job - which usually works out cheaper in the long run.


Agreed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> That design looks looks overly complex and inefficient. I wonder why they designed it like that.


Complex? Yes
Inefficient? Depends on how you define efficiency for a radiator. Most cooling at lowest flow?
Real question is how effective they are going to be for the flow rate you can achieve in your loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I guess it's because I subscribe to the concept of KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> Generally a very good theory!


Good thing Intel doesn't subscribe to the same theory.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *engmitch*
> 
> Wouldn't you want to see the circuiting of the far side before judging it inefficient? Maybe after cpachris rests his allenwrench hand for a bit he could get a pic of the other side?


I've seen a pic online somewhere before...so I will probably spend 10 minutes searching before I deal with those little bolts again.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Actually, all flow tests have confirmed that they are just over 4 times more restrictive than an SR-1 radiator. So, 4 SR-1's in series vs 1 AMS for the same flow rate.


Yeah, but you're picking on a radiator with pretty low restriction to begin with, in the SR-1. The AMS is actually less restrictive than a GTX at anything less than 1.5 gpm. And less than 1.5 gpm would probably cover the vast majority of all loops. And at 1.0 gpm, the AMS rads are less restrictive than most CPU or GPU blocks. I'm actually pretty excited to see what kind of flow I'll be able to get with the triple subloop you drew up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> If you look at different radiators, you normally see a split between incoming and outgoing:
> There is a straight flow between incoming and outgoing (straight up and straight back)
> In this review, it shows the flow rate/pressure drop of the aquacomputer is the highest of the radiators tested:


But having a lot of restriction isn't necessarily bad, as long as you have enough pumping power for a decent flow rate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Found a couple of naked pics of the board here
> 
> 
> Hopefully you can come up with a plan of attack regarding liquid cooling the chipset


Those pictures of the board are before they changed the design to a 24+2 power phase. I'd really like to have some board blocks....but I've already contacted Heatkiller, and they are not going to do any. EK is not going to do any. I highly doubt AquaComputer will do any, although I have not asked. I'm exploring seeker's suggestion for a custom block from someone over on the evga forums. I wonder how hot the PLX chips get? I'll bet the LSI chip could use some cooling.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I wonder how hot the PLX chips get? I'll bet the LSI chip could use some cooling.


I have the LSI RAID card and it has a beefy heatsink, but it does not get that hot. I have an old Aqua block that will fit it, but I decided it wasn't worth the trouble to H20 cool it.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I have the LSI RAID card and it has a beefy heatsink, but it does not get that hot. I have an old Aqua block that will fit it, but I decided it wasn't worth the trouble to H20 cool it.


That thread for nateman making the custom SRX blocks was pretty amazing. I've left him a post, but it sounds like he is pretty tied up for awhile. We'll see. Since there seem to be almost no other options anyway, I guess I could wait him out. A custom block covering the X79, LSI and PLX chips would be pretty cool.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That thread for nateman making the custom SRX blocks was pretty amazing. I've left him a post, but it sounds like he is pretty tied up for awhile. We'll see. Since there seem to be almost no other options anyway, I guess I could wait him out. A custom block covering the X79, LSI and PLX chips would be pretty cool.


He can do it and his work is outstanding. We would have to send him a MB and some cash to get started, but he enjoys a challenge. I have a small mill, but he has access to a heavy industrial grade CNC mill. If he can do SR-2's and SR-X's, the Asrock will be much simpler. And now, back to my leak!


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Or just run the rads in parallel, I know a lot of people are against it but if they are the same type it's not a big deal. Rads don't gain performance with flow the same way blocks do.
> Part of their design may have been to allow multiple loops to run on the same radiator - they have a 1/3 2/3 split end cap option.
> I'd love to review some of those radiators. Radiator testing is even more annoying than cpu testing though.


It's the two circuit option listed here:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=7_31_838_847


----------



## TheHarvman313

Found some some good test results for the AMS radiators. They are flow restrictive but I believe the performance more than makes up for it!

Test Results


----------



## xRehab

And I thought my green/black reservoir from FrozenQ was cool. This build just keeps getting better and better. The attention to detail is incredible, I can't wait to have the funds to do a build like this


----------



## cpachris

Would love some thoughts. I've hit the point where I need to go ahead and order my video cards. I'm leaving for 10 days on vacation in a couple of days, and I'm trying to plan for everything to be waiting on me when I get back. Here is my conundrum. I had originally been planning on 4x 680's in SLI. The Asrock Extreme11 has 7 slots, so with cards in 1, 3, 5 and 7, it takes up all the slots, since there are no single slot 680's right now (that I know of!) I had been hoping a single slot would be introduced before I reached the point where I needed to order. But I don't think there has been one released, and this presents a problem, since I have have a raid card also (already ordered...will be here tomorrow).

In addition to needed another slot...I'm running out of lanes! The raid card uses 8 lanes. I'm actually not even sure if there are any lanes available for the raid card if there are 4 graphic cards running at 16x. Information is vague or contradictory on whether the on-board LSI raid chip utilizes 8 of the available PCI lanes. The sandybridge-e architecture gives 40 lanes to start with, and the two PLX chips add 32 more for a total of 72 lanes. If there are 4 cards running at 16x each, that would be 64 lanes, and then if the on-board LSI chip also uses 8 lanes, ....then I'm left with no lanes for the Areca raid card. Go figure....72 PCI lanes and I'm struggling with whether they are enough. Things sure have changed in the last few years.

Anyway, here are some of the options I'm considering:

1) 3x 680's in SLI
2) 2x 690's in quad SLI
3) 2x 670's as temporary cards...knowing that the GK110 is what I really want and it should be out within 6 months (hopefully)
4) 4x 680's in SLI and use a funky PCI extender cable to utilize space between the double slot video cards and house raid card elsewhere (although they may not run at 16x under this scenario)

Other ideas? What would you do?


----------



## TPE-331

Those are some sexy reservoirs Chris. I might have Alex Make me a couple with a LA Lakers theme.







I was going to place an order with Aquacomputer until I read your thread about them in the water cooling section. So, I decided to place an order with Aquatuning instead. These guys are super quick to ship. From Germany to Washington State in 2 days! You gotta love it! I bought 2 GTX 570 water blocks for an impending build. I'm trying to convince the wifey to let me buy a SMH10. My 3rd CaseLabs case, good god I hope she will say yes.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Would love some thoughts. I've hit the point where I need to go ahead and order my video cards. I'm leaving for 10 days on vacation in a couple of days, and I'm trying to plan for everything to be waiting on me when I get back. Here is my conundrum. I had originally been planning on 4x 680's in SLI. The Asrock Extreme11 has 7 slots, so with cards in 1, 3, 5 and 7, it takes up all the slots, since there are no single slot 680's right now (that I know of!) I had been hoping a single slot would be introduced before I reached the point where I needed to order. But I don't think there has been one released, and this presents a problem, since I have have a raid card also (already ordered...will be here tomorrow).
> In addition to needed another slot...I'm running out of lanes! The raid card uses 8 lanes. I'm actually not even sure if there are any lanes available for the raid card if there are 4 graphic cards running at 16x. Information is vague or contradictory on whether the on-board LSI raid chip utilizes 8 of the available PCI lanes. The sandybridge-e architecture gives 40 lanes to start with, and the two PLX chips add 32 more for a total of 72 lanes. If there are 4 cards running at 16x each, that would be 64 lanes, and then if the on-board LSI chip also uses 8 lanes, ....then I'm left with no lanes for the Areca raid card. Go figure....72 PCI lanes and I'm struggling with whether they are enough. Things sure have changed in the last few years.
> Anyway, here are some of the options I'm considering:
> 1) 3x 680's in SLI
> 2) 2x 690's in quad SLI
> 3) 2x 670's as temporary cards...knowing that the GK110 is what I really want and it should be out within 6 months (hopefully)
> 4) 4x 680's in SLI and use a funky PCI extender cable to utilize space between the double slot video cards and house raid card elsewhere (although they may not run at 16x under this scenario)
> Other ideas? What would you do?


The cards don't require 16x, they can just run at that bandwidth. If you start adding more cards, they'll most likely drop down to 8x. You're unlikely to see any noticeable difference between 16x and 8x, especially at PCI-E 3.0.

One thing to consider... since you're running them all with waterblocks, the only part that will be 2-slots is the bracket and the DVI area. It might be possible to remove the bracket from your other device and see if it will still fit. If you don't understand what I mean, I'll try to explain it in more detail.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Would love some thoughts. I've hit the point where I need to go ahead and order my video cards. I'm leaving for 10 days on vacation in a couple of days, and I'm trying to plan for everything to be waiting on me when I get back. Here is my conundrum. I had originally been planning on 4x 680's in SLI. The Asrock Extreme11 has 7 slots, so with cards in 1, 3, 5 and 7, it takes up all the slots, since there are no single slot 680's right now (that I know of!) I had been hoping a single slot would be introduced before I reached the point where I needed to order. But I don't think there has been one released, and this presents a problem, since I have have a raid card also (already ordered...will be here tomorrow).
> In addition to needed another slot...I'm running out of lanes! The raid card uses 8 lanes. I'm actually not even sure if there are any lanes available for the raid card if there are 4 graphic cards running at 16x. Information is vague or contradictory on whether the on-board LSI raid chip utilizes 8 of the available PCI lanes. The sandybridge-e architecture gives 40 lanes to start with, and the two PLX chips add 32 more for a total of 72 lanes. If there are 4 cards running at 16x each, that would be 64 lanes, and then if the on-board LSI chip also uses 8 lanes, ....then I'm left with no lanes for the Areca raid card. Go figure....72 PCI lanes and I'm struggling with whether they are enough. Things sure have changed in the last few years.
> Anyway, here are some of the options I'm considering:
> 1) 3x 680's in SLI
> 2) 2x 690's in quad SLI
> 3) 2x 670's as temporary cards...knowing that the GK110 is what I really want and it should be out within 6 months (hopefully)
> 4) 4x 680's in SLI and use a funky PCI extender cable to utilize space between the double slot video cards and house raid card elsewhere (although they may not run at 16x under this scenario)
> Other ideas? What would you do?


Option 4, then replace with the GK110's when they're released


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> The cards don't require 16x, they can just run at that bandwidth. If you start adding more cards, they'll most likely drop down to 8x. You're unlikely to see any noticeable difference between 16x and 8x, especially at PCI-E 3.0. One thing to consider... since you're running them all with waterblocks, the only part that will be 2-slots is the bracket and the DVI area. It might be possible to remove the bracket from your other device and see if it will still fit. If you don't understand what I mean, I'll try to explain it in more detail.


There is enough lanes to have them all run at 16x if I don't add a raid card...but I have to add the raid card. But you're right that 1 of the cards would probably just drop down to 8x instead of 16x. But you may be right that 8x at PCI-e 3.0 is probably not much different than 16x at PCI-e 2.0. May not see any real difference.

The raid card has external SAS multi-lanes on the back of the card, so I don't think removing a bracket will help.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Option 4, then replace with the GK110's when they're released


You're not very easy on the wallet.







I haven't looked real hard, but I would need to make sure they even make PCI-e 3.0 extenders already. Raid card is PCI-e 3.0 and I want that badwidth available to it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Those are some sexy reservoirs Chris. I might have Alex Make me a couple with a LA Lakers theme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to place an order with Aquacomputer until I read your thread about them in the water cooling section. So, I decided to place an order with Aquatuning instead. These guys are super quick to ship. From Germany to Washington State in 2 days! You gotta love it! I bought 2 GTX 570 water blocks for an impending build. I'm trying to convince the wifey to let me buy a SMH10. My 3rd CaseLabs case, good god I hope she will say yes.


Aquatuning does have impressive shipping. 3 caselabs, huh? You clearly are smitten. The SMH10 looks nice for a smaller build.


----------



## stren

Given that you're planning to upgrade - go for 2 x 670's - they really will be plenty for a [email protected] In the max case get the 680's in tri SLI. It gives you time to sort out your raid config without having to worry about funky extenders.

Besides getting 4x680's on that monitor is a waste. I'm all for epeen and overkill, but if you're going epeen then upgrade the displays too. However if you're going to upgrade monitors then take a look at Vega's thread because he's had much better luck with the 7970s. Personally I'm sticking with my 3x580 3GB and single 1600p until some newer displays and GPUs come out.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> You're not very easy on the wallet.


You've already spent $1k on fans...what's another $2k?







Remember, it's not over unless it's overkill


----------



## Electrocutor

Aside from the current lack of full coverage water blocks, wouldn't using 2 690s solve all of your issues?


----------



## BlazinJoker

I'd go for dual 670's considering the GK110 chipset is suppose to be killer. Patience is a virtue


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Given that you're planning to upgrade - go for 2 x 670's - they really will be plenty for a [email protected] In the max case get the 680's in tri SLI. It gives you time to sort out your raid config without having to worry about funky extenders.
> Besides getting 4x680's on that monitor is a waste. I'm all for epeen and overkill, but if you're going epeen then upgrade the displays too. However if you're going to upgrade monitors then take a look at Vega's thread because he's had much better luck with the 7970s. Personally I'm sticking with my 3x580 3GB and single 1600p until some newer displays and GPUs come out.


True and sage advice. And although I am probably going to bump to a 30 inch 1600p, I probably won't ever do anything as wild as what Vega has done. But I will most likely get one of the Wacom Cintiq's as a second display/input device. I know it probably still doesn't require 4 way SLI, but would at least justify 2 or 3 way. Plus, Adobe After Effects now can utilize multiple GPU's for certain effects. So even if I wasn't using an SLI setup for game fps, I might utilize it for media creation.

Would be an easier choice if I had a better idea when GK110 was coming out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> You've already spent $1k on fans...what's another $2k?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember, it's not over unless it's overkill


Hard to argue there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Aside from the current lack of full coverage water blocks, wouldn't using 2 690s solve all of your issues?


Yes. It would solve the spacing issues. Other than 4x 680's, it would be the most GPU power I could get. The 690's automatically run at PCI-e 3.0 speeds instead of 2.0 as the 680's do (without the recent hack). There is a lot to like about a 2x 690 solution. Even one of the negative things that gets thrown out a lot doesn't apply if you are water cooling them. Some negative points in reviews talk about how the 680's exhaust out the rear of the case while the 690 exhausts in the case. If water cooled, even the negative wouldn't apply. And since the 690's have their own PLX chips inside....yes, it even solves my # of lanes issue. Solves slots, solves # of lanes, still lots of power. The only negative is its an expensive temporary setup if GK110 comes out before Christmas. I thought I had seen several full cover 690 blocks. EK?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> I'd go for dual 670's considering the GK110 chipset is suppose to be killer. Patience is a virtue


By far the most practical way to wait for the GK110.


----------



## linkdiablo

Even if there is no full cover 690 block, which I am not aware of (I'm not actively informed on watercooling products): why does it matter? There isn't and never will be AsRock MB blocks and you are going custom to have one, you could as well get 690s blocks if no one sells any.

One thing I'm not sure I understand: these PLX chips (and the NF200 before that): how can they work?
Say I have a 16x PCIe 3.0 that I saturate with a raid card / a video card. If I add a second card with a PLX chip, they both have a 16x link but it's still fed by a single 16x for two cards. As much as I try to wrap my mind around it, all I can think they do is duplicate outgoing bandwidth and split incoming bandwidth two ways.

Can't wait for GK110 either, must look at benchies.


----------



## Electrocutor

Even if he doesn't get a custom made motherboard block, he could in theory use some generic water blocks as long as the inlet and outlets don't interfere with the video cards.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yes. It would solve the spacing issues. Other than 4x 680's, it would be the most GPU power I could get. The 690's automatically run at PCI-e 3.0 speeds instead of 2.0 as the 680's do (without the recent hack). There is a lot to like about a 2x 690 solution. Even one of the negative things that gets thrown out a lot doesn't apply if you are water cooling them. Some negative points in reviews talk about how the 680's exhaust out the rear of the case while the 690 exhausts in the case. If water cooled, even the negative wouldn't apply. And since the 690's have their own PLX chips inside....yes, it even solves my # of lanes issue. Solves slots, solves # of lanes, still lots of power. The only negative is its an expensive temporary setup if GK110 comes out before Christmas. I thought I had seen several full cover 690 blocks. EK?


Plenty of 690 blocks here


----------



## cpachris

EK Full Cover 690
AquaComputer Full Cover 690
EVGA Full Cover 690
Koolance Full Cover 690
XSPC Full Cover 690

I think there are plenty of options.


----------



## TheHarvman313

EK Full Cover 690 Waterblock

I would go with the 2x 690s. It is actually cheaper to do these with wc than 4x 680s with wc.

[Edit] You guys beat me to it!! I like the Aquacomputer block the best.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> EK Full Cover 690
> AquaComputer Full Cover 690
> EVGA Full Cover 690
> Koolance Full Cover 690
> XSPC Full Cover 690
> I think there are plenty of options.


The Aquacomputer one looks beautiful... unless you plan to wait for the next generation. Since you'd only have 2 instead of 4 blocks, their higher resistance shouldn't be as much an issue either. Let me know after you've decided on all the blocks and I'll fiddle with the flow design if need be.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> EK Full Cover 690 Waterblock
> I would go with the 2x 690s. It is actually cheaper to do these with wc than 4x 680s with wc.
> [Edit] You guys beat me to it!! I like the Aquacomputer block the best.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> The Aquacomputer one looks beautiful... unless you plan to wait for the next generation. Since you'd only have 2 instead of 4 blocks, their higher resistance shouldn't be as much an issue either. Let me know after you've decided on all the blocks and I'll fiddle with the flow design if need be.


I'm torn between a set of EK blocks or a set of AquaComputer blocks. I like the AC gpu blocks the best. But AC doesn't have a ram block that cools 4 sticks, which I would need. So I'd have to mix-match with another set. The AC CPU cooler looks pretty good, but doesn't really match the ram blocks....like the EK CPU and RAM blocks match. But maybe if I"m having to mix in some different motherboard blocks anyway, perhaps its not a huge deal. But I'll always envy those that have the matching MB, CPU, RAM and GPU blocks. There is just something cool about that.


----------



## 3930K

xspc looks beautiful imo. You could even add like 20 crimson LEDS if you wanted!


----------



## Blizlake

XSPC and Aquacomputer ones look the best: xspc if you want leds, aquacomputer if you don't.


----------



## barkinos98

go for a 690 SLI instead of quad 680, since you get the same amount of power but with less space occupied. or you can always cheap out and do a 670sli for waiting GK110. which is i think 6-7 months away, and if i were you i would go for a quad 690 and then buy the gk110 make a quad sli of 685 (680 rebranded GK110) or a sli with 695 (rebranded 690 w/ GK110) i made the models up btw, no guarantee it will be those. to conclude go for a 690SLI to save space. want to cheap out (even though real hard on this build) go for a 670 sli. or just buy one 690 till GK110 comes and make a quad sli.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> go for a 690 SLI instead of quad 680, since you get the same amount of power but with less space occupied. or you can always cheap out and do a 670sli for waiting GK110. which is i think 6-7 months away, and if i were you i would go for a quad 690 and then buy the gk110 make a quad sli of 685 (680 rebranded GK110) or a sli with 695 (rebranded 690 w/ GK110) i made the models up btw, no guarantee it will be those. to conclude go for a 690SLI to save space. want to cheap out (even though real hard on this build) go for a 670 sli. or just buy one 690 till GK110 comes and make a quad sli.


1 GK110 ≃ 2GK104


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 1 GK110 ≃ 2GK104


Source?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm torn between a set of EK blocks or a set of AquaComputer blocks. I like the AC gpu blocks the best. But AC doesn't have a ram block that cools 4 sticks, which I would need. So I'd have to mix-match with another set. The AC CPU cooler looks pretty good, but doesn't really match the ram blocks....like the EK CPU and RAM blocks match. But maybe if I"m having to mix in some different motherboard blocks anyway, perhaps its not a huge deal. But I'll always envy those that have the matching MB, CPU, RAM and GPU blocks. There is just something cool about that.


From the looks of things, I'd say you actually have quite a bit of options where you could mix different brands and still have them look to be part of the same set. Consider some of the RAM blocks like MIPS ( http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p3106_MIPS-RAM-cooler-4-incl--4-RAM-Module-Nickel.html or http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p8650_MIPS-RAM-Cooler-7--Corsair---Mushkin-Edition--POM.html ); as far as I can tell, they do not put any brand labeling on the block so it could work with any other blocks that match the color scheme.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 1 GK110 ≃ 2GK104
> 
> 
> 
> Source?
Click to expand...

15 cores are roughly equal to 2x8 cores due to SLI scaling.


----------



## theseekeroffun

I think mixing is fine if you have the same basic color scheme.


----------



## The_chemist21

Maybe you can use a  and still be able to keep four 680's 4gb and by the time the gk110 rolls out you will be ready for an upgrade anyways.

http://www.amazon.com/HOTER-PCI-E-Extension-Cable-Adapter/dp/B0057M1ZLE


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> From the looks of things, I'd say you actually have quite a bit of options where you could mix different brands and still have them look to be part of the same set. Consider some of the RAM blocks like MIPS ( http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p3106_MIPS-RAM-cooler-4-incl--4-RAM-Module-Nickel.html or http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p8650_MIPS-RAM-Cooler-7--Corsair---Mushkin-Edition--POM.html ); as far as I can tell, they do not put any brand labeling on the block so it could work with any other blocks that match the color scheme.


I actually really like the looks of the MIPS cooler. Kind of have the same look as the AC video cards with the bolted on stainless steel top. Could even powdercoat those steel tops white.

The MIPS coolers don't mention what memory sticks they fit. Does anyone know? Are they just universal? Most of the RAM water blocks I've seen specifically mention Dominator memory.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I think mixing is fine if you have the same basic color scheme.


Those look good together. Did you get your leak issue resolved last night?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I actually really like the looks of the MIPS cooler. Kind of have the same look as the AC video cards with the bolted on stainless steel top. Could even powdercoat those steel tops white.
> The MIPS coolers don't mention what memory sticks they fit. Does anyone know? Are they just universal? Most of the RAM water blocks I've seen specifically mention Dominator memory.


The black one I linked specifically lists the Dominators, but the steel one isn't specific. It may be worth a call to the company to verify? I'd imagine that there is at least some conformity to the screw hole spacing on RAM spreaders. It does seem to come with its own heat spreaders if you don't have ones with your RAM too though.

One thing: I really like the look of the stainless steel and copper WC parts as well, but there's something in the back of my brain thats nagging me about galvanic corrosion having such a large surface area of contact with both water and between the two metals. In most cases, you can use anti-vibration (rubber) gromets and what not to electrically isolate parts of differing metals, but in these cases the stainless steel is in direct metal contact with the copper and the water with both. I just can't decide if I should be concerned or not: it depends on the exact alloy used for the stainless steel.

[Edit]
It looks like MIPS specifically designed some RAM blocks for use with Corsair spreaders (which are shorter), but the rest come with their own heat spreaders that you'd have to install.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Chris, MIPS http://mips-computer.com/index.htm?frame=sg_MIPSProductline_MainboardSets_NickelPomBlack.htm

They make excellent blocks.


----------



## cpachris

FedEx guy just delivered me this:





One of the first Areca ARC 1882ix-16 PCI-e 3.0 models delivered in the US! I may have some studio pictures up later today. Upgrade to 4GB memory cache and a batter backup also. Can't wait to do some benchmarks with this card and 8 to 10 SSD's.


----------



## Quest99

Shouldn't you start packing?







Although I will come back hourly for an update.









What is the second card in the box in the last picture?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

8GB memory cache or bust!


----------



## BlazinJoker

I'm confused. The MIPS memory blocks have a nickel plated brass lid, so where is the stainless steel you guys are concerned about?


----------



## Citra

What is that mini pcie card in the box? Backup battery?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't you start packing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I will come back hourly for an update.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the second card in the box in the last picture?


Yes, I need to be packing...but I have all day today. Leave tomorrow morning. My kids are excited!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> 8GB memory cache or bust!


That would be fun....but 4GB is the largest upgrade they offer right now. Unless you tried your own card in the slot, maybe?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> I'm confused. The MIPS memory blocks have a nickel plated brass lid, so where is the stainless steel you guys are concerned about?


I was going based on what it looked like in the picture....wasn't paying attention to the description or title. You may be right.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> What is that mini pcie card in the box? Backup battery?


Yep, battery backup. Gotta keep the 4GB cache running til it writes, right? The electricity service here in Edmond is sketchy so I think I need it. My UPS kicks on for 1/2 second or so several times a day.


----------



## General121

I wish I were you right now. Lol.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> I'm confused. The MIPS memory blocks have a nickel plated brass lid, so where is the stainless steel you guys are concerned about?


On the Aquacomputer GPU blocks, specifically:
Quote:


> Materials:
> • Cooling plate: Copper
> • Top plate: Stainless steel


The MIPS copper/nickel would just match the AC GPU block in color.


----------



## cpachris

Double deliveries! The USPS guy just delivered me this:



After my AquaComputer experience, I'm always extremely appreciative of companies who ship quickly and actually deliver the products.







This order is another Aquaero, along with some odds and ends. Lots of the items are just samples of certain things, so I can see if I might use them.



Other than the second Aquaero, this is the main reason this order was placed. Reglar has asked earlier why I wasn't using shielded male connections for the fan headers...and once I thought about it, I decided to do it. To be honest, crimping pins for these is actually more appealing than soldering wires on the regular male connections. And this will minimize risk of shorts....because I will have a bunch of these in the case. I couldn't find them any cheaper, so I paid the stupid ridiculous price that FrozenCPU has these for.



These are the pins to go with them.



And this is more of some Bitspower 1/16th inch sleeve I bought a sample of earlier. I've been playing around with designing what I want my PowerAdjust 2 wiring to look like...and its gets pretty messy in close quarters if you are trying to sleeve all of those connectors sitting that closely together with normal size sleeve. This sleeve just BARELY fits over 18 gauge wire, and should save me some space. But it is hard to slide one....so I'll play with it and see.



I also noticed in these pictures that I STILL have some white paint on my thumbnail from my fan painting experience. Time to buff the nails I guess.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

8GB probably isn't supported in the firmware, but you can definitely get 8GB sticks. Since you're best friends with the CEO now (







) tell him you want 8GB!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> 8GB probably isn't supported in the firmware, but you can definitely get 8GB sticks. Since you're best friends with the CEO now (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) tell him you want 8GB!


Ha....LOL....Let me see what I can do.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I also noticed in these pictures that I STILL have some white paint on my thumbnail from my fan painting experience. Time to buff the nails I guess.


lol did the painting process scar you deeply? it wouldve to me if i painted 42 fans, by force. for a hobby, i think i can do more


----------



## AtomTM

Damn, Love the BBBB! Thumbs up for it!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> 8GB probably isn't supported in the firmware, but you can definitely get 8GB sticks. Since you're best friends with the CEO now (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) tell him you want 8GB!


Because the cache is so immensly important when using SSDs...? I figured that he would mostly disable caching since he was using SSDs and doesn't want to worry about power failure issues.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Because the cache is so immensly important when using SSDs...? I figured that he would mostly disable caching since he was using SSDs and doesn't want to worry about power failure issues.


It's just overkill so I figured I'd suggest it


----------



## linkdiablo

Is the card DDR2 or DDR3? You could go 16GB if it's DDR3.

On topic: You WILL be WC (and OCing) that raid card, right? Riiiight?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> lol did the painting process scar you deeply? it wouldve to me if i painted 42 fans, by force. for a hobby, i think i can do more


I kind of liked the painting. Was ready to be done by the end of them,....but it doesn't bother me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XeoN786*
> 
> Damn, Love the BBBB! Thumbs up for it!


Thanks XeoN789!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Because the cache is so immensly important when using SSDs...? I figured that he would mostly disable caching since he was using SSDs and doesn't want to worry about power failure issues.


Will have to research that. Thanks for the thought.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> It's just overkill so I figured I'd suggest it


Overkill must be considered!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Is the card DDR2 or DDR3? You could go 16GB if it's DDR3.
> On topic: You WILL be WC (and OCing) that raid card, right? Riiiight?


It's DDR3. Sure looks tight in there though. I haven't pulled the memory card out, but it looks like its single sided, and there is not much room between the main PCB and the other side of the ram stick.

I'll definitely pull off the heat sink and see what I'm dealing with. If I can use a universal block to cover it, I'll do it.


----------



## greywarden

Finally caught up, there were 4 more pages since I started reading it lastnight!

Pretty damn cool build. Love all the work you're putting into making everything perfect! I wish I had that kind of patience, maybe for my next build!


----------



## cpachris

Asrock confirmed that the LSI chip utilizes 8 of the available PCI lanes, and with my Areca card also utilizing 8 additional lanes, ....I think I've decided on getting 2x 690's for the video card setup. Solves my lack of slots issue, solves my disappearing number of lanes issue, ensures PCI-e 3.0 speeds without a hack, and probably even helps out a little with restriction in what is turning out to be a very restrictive water loop. I think this is the way for me to go. Will consider upgrade to GK110 once released if specs make it worthwhile.

Going to pull the trigger in the next 24 hours...does anyone know if there are options other than EVGA and Asus for the 690? Favorite out of these?


----------



## The_chemist21

EVGA hands-down-don't-look-back.







Quality Marksmanship







Workmanship, Quality Customer Service, overall great experience.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> EVGA {snip} Quality Marksmanship


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Asrock confirmed that the LSI chip utilizes 8 of the available PCI lanes, and with my Areca card also utilizing 8 additional lanes, ....I think I've decided on getting 2x 690's for the video card setup. Solves my lack of slots issue, solves my disappearing number of lanes issue, ensures PCI-e 3.0 speeds without a hack, and probably even helps out a little with restriction in what is turning out to be a very restrictive water loop. I think this is the way for me to go. Will consider upgrade to GK110 once released if specs make it worthwhile.
> Going to pull the trigger in the next 24 hours...does anyone know if there are options other than EVGA and Asus for the 690? Favorite out of these?


These?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> These?


Nope. I would be getting my water blocks separately. If I go EVGA, I would get two of these.


----------



## The_chemist21

Video cards should go back to being 2slot with ability to take off stock air cooler and put on a waterblock and change the I/O bracket so that you can have a single slot card, damn those stacked DVI's.


----------



## sortableturnip

What's the difference between the regular and the signature version?


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> What's the difference between the regular and the signature version?


T-shirt / poster / stickers


----------



## TPE-331

Checking into this build log has become a daily ritual for me. Gotta go grab the mop and clean up the drool off the floor after looking at your gpu selection.







I still say that this rig will be gracing the cover of one of the pc magazines.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Ha, a daily ritual?! I've checked this log 5 times today.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Ha, a daily ritual?! I've checked this log 5 times today.


Heheheee, I hear ya man. This build is insane!


----------



## The_chemist21

Have you thought about getting someone to cnc you a custom .999 silver bottom plate for the EK supreme HF?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Video cards should go back to being 2slot with ability to take off stock air cooler and put on a waterblock and change the I/O bracket so that you can have a single slot card, damn those stacked DVI's.


Amen to that. The whole bracket part should be modular for the 2nd slot part of it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Checking into this build log has become a daily ritual for me. Gotta go grab the mop and clean up the drool off the floor after looking at your gpu selection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still say that this rig will be gracing the cover of one of the pc magazines.


Not my goal....but it would be neat to get my beloved OU some publicity by being on a cover.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Ha, a daily ritual?! I've checked this log 5 times today.


Hope you don't get fired.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Heheheee, I hear ya man. This build is insane!


Thanks TPE-331. Have you convinced wifey of need for the SMH10 yet?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Have you thought about getting someone to cnc you a custom .999 silver bottom plate for the EK supreme HF?


Don't be sillly. I would of course use unobtanium. Silver is so 2011.

So no one wants to stand up and push for the Asus card, huh? That's kind of telling.


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Don't be sillly. I would of course use unobtanium. Silver is so 2011.


But its Socket 2011


----------



## R4V3N

I do like Asus cards, though the newest nVidia I have of theirs is a GeForce3 ti500. I love the Direct Cu cards, though I don't think they've done one for the 690, and you'd be putting it under water anyways.
Just saying so the Asus isn't overlooked.


----------



## 3930K

Why not 4 4GB 680s? Or at least wait for the MARS III?


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Why not 4 4GB 680s? Or at least wait for the MARS III?


mars 3 has yet to be released, and 4GB 680's are a waste of money since the GK110 will come in approx.. 5-6-7 months. i still say go for GTX690 SLI and then exchange them to GK110x2 SLI.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Why not 4 4GB 680s? Or at least wait for the MARS III?


4 dual slot cards takes up all 7 PCI slots, leaving no room for raid card, without using an extender (ugly). Not enough lanes to run 4 cards at 16x either, when you have other add-ins like the raid card. Wish the MARS III was out already, but I need to order now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> mars 3 has yet to be released, and 4GB 680's are a waste of money since the GK110 will come in approx.. 5-6-7 months. i still say go for GTX690 SLI and then exchange them to GK110x2 SLI.


That's kind of what I'm thinking also.


----------



## 3930K

Gk110 SLI is the same as 690 quad... A side grade at most.


----------



## sortableturnip

Are the GK110's supposed to be Tesla only though?

From Anandtech


----------



## Hattifnatten

That's what I thought aswell.


----------



## 3930K

It'd be a massive waste because then they'd have to throw away all the leaky parts.


----------



## nateman_doo

Wow. Took me a few days to catch up...

Incredible build!!! Very meticulous!

Let me know what slots could be open for potential inlets. I have been staring at this board for a few days and think I can come up with a few designs for the inlets. the 690's will defiantly leave room for inlets around the last PCI-E slot, but there is "some" room up towards the top by the CPU and ram. Won't know until some really closeups are taken.

You are correct, I have been pretty busy with the SR2 blocks, but I hope to have them done soon!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Wow. Took me a few days to catch up...
> Incredible build!!! Very meticulous!
> Let me know what slots could be open for potential inlets. I have been staring at this board for a few days and think I can come up with a few designs for the inlets. the 690's will defiantly leave room for inlets around the last PCI-E slot, but there is "some" room up towards the top by the CPU and ram. Won't know until some really closeups are taken.
> You are correct, I have been pretty busy with the SR2 blocks, but I hope to have them done soon!


Check out nate man's work on the EVGA forums. We are talking about him doing some custom blocks for the Asrock Extreme11 board.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Check out nate man's work on the EVGA forums. We are talking about him doing some custom blocks for the Asrock Extreme11 board.


The only thing that seems to be in the way is that battery... if it weren't there, you could run the inlet and outlet up nearer the CPU/RAM and also cover those last two mosfets (are they mosfets?). Maybe you could just put a piece of non-conductive material on the bottom of the water block there to go over top of it, or send one channel to the left and one to the right of it?

There's at least four chips there that would need a solid block sink to, perhaps a couple more.


----------



## nateman_doo

I was just shooting you an e-mail too. Its your build, so it will be designed around how you need it.

The sig at the bottom of my evga post has most of the projects I have done:
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=943648

If you bored its some fun stuff to look at.

One day I have to make a website.


----------



## 3930K

nateman, I say I love your work. Just wanted to ask, how much did the machines and the software cost? Right now I'm trying to do anything to earn money. Thanks, 3930K.

EDOT: Goddamn this shoul've been a PM.


----------



## Electrocutor

Unrelated: check out http://www.overclock.net/t/1287359/tons-of-new-stuff-from-aqua-computer I wonder if those pumps wouldn't be a better match for this build since you could hook them up by the Aquabus directly.


----------



## Quest99

^^This^^

Wow.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Unrelated: check out http://www.overclock.net/t/1287359/tons-of-new-stuff-from-aqua-computer I wonder if those pumps wouldn't be a better match for this build since you could hook them up by the Aquabus directly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> ^^This^^
> Wow.


Assuming I can buy them from someone other than aqua computer,.... right?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Unrelated: check out http://www.overclock.net/t/1287359/tons-of-new-stuff-from-aqua-computer I wonder if those pumps wouldn't be a better match for this build since you could hook them up by the Aquabus directly.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> ^^This^^
> Wow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Assuming I can buy them from someone other than aqua computer,.... right?
Click to expand...

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p13775_Aquacomputer-D5-pump-mechnics-with-USB--and-aquabus-interface.html

Which ones are you looking for?

Because I know you love the AT sterling CS and shipping.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> nateman, I say I love your work. Just wanted to ask, how much did the machines and the software cost? Right now I'm trying to do anything to earn money. Thanks, 3930K.
> EDOT: Goddamn this shoul've been a PM.


I built my machine in my basement, but they range anywhere from 7K on up to tens, of thousands.
The control software is Mach 3 ($300) and the CAM could be in the thousands, but I made most of my tool paths by hand. Took days at one point.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> nateman, I say I love your work. Just wanted to ask, how much did the machines and the software cost? Right now I'm trying to do anything to earn money. Thanks, 3930K.
> EDOT: Goddamn this shoul've been a PM.
> 
> 
> 
> I built my machine in my basement, but they range anywhere from 7K on up to tens, of thousands.
> The control software is Mach 3 ($300) and the CAM could be in the thousands, but I made most of my tool paths by hand. Took days at one point.
Click to expand...

So basically WAY out of my price range. Thanks for all the info







+rep


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I built my machine in my basement, but they range anywhere from 7K on up to tens, of thousands.
> The control software is Mach 3 ($300) and the CAM could be in the thousands, but I made most of my tool paths by hand. Took days at one point.


You make me wonder if you dabble in water block prototype making just for fun to see if you can make something much better than what everyone else has: things like trapezoid micro-channels or bi-directional diagonal channels and such.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I built my machine in my basement, but they range anywhere from 7K on up to tens, of thousands.
> The control software is Mach 3 ($300) and the CAM could be in the thousands, but I made most of my tool paths by hand. Took days at one point.


I will have one of these in my possession one day.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Wow. Took me a few days to catch up...
> Incredible build!!! Very meticulous!
> Let me know what slots could be open for potential inlets. I have been staring at this board for a few days and think I can come up with a few designs for the inlets. the 690's will defiantly leave room for inlets around the last PCI-E slot, but there is "some" room up towards the top by the CPU and ram. Won't know until some really closeups are taken.
> You are correct, I have been pretty busy with the SR2 blocks, but I hope to have them done soon!


Talk about meticulous...those blocks look amazing!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Talk about meticulous...those blocks look amazing!


Indeed they do my friend, Makes me wonder if I could pay him enough to make me two GTX480 waterblocks.


----------



## Jackeduphard

Man, My money is on drug dealer still









It is coming along ever so nicely! Keep it up!


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You make me wonder if you dabble in water block prototype making just for fun to see if you can make something much better than what everyone else has: things like trapezoid micro-channels or bi-directional diagonal channels and such.


Yup. I actually started making the SR2 blocks so that I could afford to buy the chips to go with the board. I never bought the chips, but put the profits back into my machine and now I am building a second CNC. It will be much more capable then the one I have now. I couldn't justify shutting down the operation just to buy the processors. People started asking me to make things and it gives me a tremendous personal pride to make their visions come to life.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Talk about meticulous...those blocks look amazing!


Thanks! They are still unfinished. The thread in the EVGA forums shows the entire process from start to finish.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Indeed they do my friend, Makes me wonder if I could pay him enough to make me two GTX480 waterblocks.


Anything is possible.









I don't want to hijack the thread, but I defiantly look forward to making this block.


----------



## Whatts

I was just browsing the new products section from a local webshop and found white BitsPower fittings !









The website is mostly in Dutch, but you'll get the picture.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Were white Bitspower fittings already going to be made...? Or did we convince them to make em on this thread?!


----------



## MorgsTouch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Not a chance in the world of not finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last night I finally threw in the towel with AquaComputer and re-ordered almost all of the stuff from Aquatuning. If you haven't read about my AquaComputer experience....see this thread. So I'm fairly confident I'll have all of my Aqua stuff this week. I also made the executive decision to do the AMS rads white on the sides instead of crimson, which allows me to move forward with my final Caselabs transaction. Jim had run out of the custom Prismatic powder on my first order, and had to order more before he finished the top panels and some plates in my custom color. I asked him to hold off doing the final batch so I could send him some additional faceplates (some from Aqua...and the rads). Not getting the Aqua order kept that whole thing delayed. Now that I'm not going to do the AMS rad sides in crimson, I can move forward with Caselabs also. I sent Jim an email last night telling him that the remaining faceplates were on the way.
> While I'm finalizing the Caselabs stuff, I also inquired about ordering two of the new XXL doors for my TH10, and one of the USB 3.0 retrofit kits....both of course done in the crimson color.
> Additionally, since I fully expect my Asrock Extreme11 motherboard to be available for purchase sometime in the next week or two....things are going to start moving.
> Build progress will remain slow for the next couple of weeks, while I wait for the AquaTuning stuff, Caselabs order, and the motherboard. Plus I'll be out-of-town on a Florida vacation and cruise the last week of July and 1st week of August....so no progress updates during that time. But I will try and show some progress before vacation on some custom wiring I'll be working on, ...selecting a color pattern for my 24 pin and 8 pin sleeving, and doing my custom dye batch for the MDPC-X sleeving....all before I get out of town on vacation. Once I return....build should move ahead full steam.


Chris, i've been creeping in this thread for the last few days trying to catch up, i'm still reading... (Really cool stuff by the way) However, after I read this ^^ I thought hey i'm vacationing in Florida the same week! What part will you be visiting?


----------



## barkinos98

bumping to get this back up top of my feed


----------



## 3930K

Barkinos why don't you just wait till someone has a post with actual information to post?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> I was just browsing the new products section from a local webshop and found white BitsPower fittings !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The website is mostly in Dutch, but you'll get the picture.


That is awesome news! I am still waiting on my final confirmation email from Bitspower on a whole pot of white fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Were white Bitspower fittings already going to be made...? Or did we convince them to make em on this thread?!


They were in the process of making them, but we were trying to get them to release them sooner than they were going to for general public.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorgsTouch*
> 
> Chris, i've been creeping in this thread for the last few days trying to catch up, i'm still reading... (Really cool stuff by the way) However, after I read this ^^ I thought hey i'm vacationing in Florida the same week! What part will you be visiting?


Spent 3 days in Orlando at the parks, and right now I'm on the Freedom of the Seas somewhere in the Bahamas, headed for the Caribbean! Internet access is 65 cents a minute, so I won't be on long!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> bumping to get this back up top of my feed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Barkinos why don't you just wait till someone has a post with actual information to post?


How about I post my recent order done from the ship?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> I was just browsing the new products section from a local webshop and found white BitsPower fittings !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The website is mostly in Dutch, but you'll get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> That is awesome news! I am still waiting on my final confirmation email from Bitspower on a whole pot of white fittings.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Were white Bitspower fittings already going to be made...? Or did we convince them to make em on this thread?!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They were in the process of making them, but we were trying to get them to release them sooner than they were going to for general public.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MorgsTouch*
> 
> Chris, i've been creeping in this thread for the last few days trying to catch up, i'm still reading... (Really cool stuff by the way) However, after I read this ^^ I thought hey i'm vacationing in Florida the same week! What part will you be visiting?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Spent 3 days in Orlando at the parks, and right now I'm on the Freedom of the Seas somewhere in the Bahamas, headed for the Caribbean! Internet access is 65 cents a minute, so I won't be on long!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> bumping to get this back up top of my feed
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Barkinos why don't you just wait till someone has a post with actual information to post?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How about I post my recent order done from the ship?
Click to expand...


----------



## cpachris

Here I am, logged on to the ship's internet...which makes my old phone modem look fast. Painful! But I logged into Newegg and gleefully saw that Asrock had finally released the Extreme11, so I put in an order there, and an Amazon order for the following items:

- Asrock Extreme11
- 2x 32GB Corsair Dominator GT
- Intel 3960X processor
- 2x EVGA 690 GTX video cards

Everthing should be waiting on me when I get back in town so I hope to start some real building next week. I probably won't be able to resist checking back into OCN at least a couple of times, but won't have much else to report until I get home. Take care!


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here I am, logged on to the ship's internet...which makes my old phone modem look fast. Painful! But I logged into Newegg and gleefully saw that Asrock had finally released the Extreme11, so I put in an order there, and an Amazon order for the following items:
> 
> - Asrock Extreme11
> - 2x 32GB Corsair Dominator GT
> - Intel 3960X processor
> - 2x EVGA 690 GTX video cards
> 
> Everthing should be waiting on me when I get back in town so I hope to start some real building next week. I probably won't be able to resist checking back into OCN at least a couple of times, but won't have much else to report until I get home. Take care!


I have done that before. lol.

Dom GTs? What are you going to paint them?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here I am, logged on to the ship's internet...which makes my old phone modem look fast. Painful! But I logged into Newegg and gleefully saw that Asrock had finally released the Extreme11, so I put in an order there, and an Amazon order for the following items:
> *- Asrock Extreme11
> - 2x 32GB Corsair Dominator GT
> - Intel 3960X processor
> - 2x EVGA 690 GTX video cards*
> Everthing should be waiting on me when I get back in town so I hope to start some real building next week. I probably won't be able to resist checking back into OCN at least a couple of times, but won't have much else to report until I get home. Take care!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here I am, logged on to the ship's internet...which makes my old phone modem look fast. Painful! But I logged into Newegg and gleefully saw that Asrock had finally released the Extreme11, so I put in an order there, and an Amazon order for the following items:
> - Asrock Extreme11
> - 2x 32GB Corsair Dominator GT
> - Intel 3960X processor
> - 2x EVGA 690 GTX video cards
> Everthing should be waiting on me when I get back in town so I hope to start some real building next week. I probably won't be able to resist checking back into OCN at least a couple of times, but won't have much else to report until I get home. Take care!


So you spent another $4000 for this build while paying per minute for internet on a cruise... "Have you been shot lately? You need to be shot."


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here I am, logged on to the ship's internet...which makes my old phone modem look fast. Painful! But I logged into Newegg and gleefully saw that Asrock had finally released the Extreme11, so I put in an order there, and an Amazon order for the following items:
> - Asrock Extreme11
> - 2x 32GB Corsair Dominator GT
> - Intel 3960X processor
> - 2x EVGA 690 GTX video cards
> Everthing should be waiting on me when I get back in town so I hope to start some real building next week. I probably won't be able to resist checking back into OCN at least a couple of times, but won't have much else to report until I get home. Take care!
> 
> 
> 
> So you spent another $3500 for this build while paying per minute for internet on a cruise... "Have you been shot lately? You need to be shot."
Click to expand...

lol


----------



## aznpersuazn

Chris, I have been creepin' on this build for weeks, now. I believe this is one of the best builds of the past two decades, and I'm only 19!!! You help inspire young engineers, like me, to want to be passionate in case modding! Keep up the great work!


----------



## PCModderMike

White Bitspower compression fittings are for sale on FrozenCPU








Going to start stocking up on some myself to eventually switch over to them.


----------



## Citra

64gb of ram...

Sent from my iPod touch 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## linkdiablo

What a coincidence, I'm building something similar to this for a client (minus the mod) and I was uncertain how to exploit all that RAM. He will also do content creation. How will you allocate that RAM?

RAMdisk for photoshop's scratch disk or just huge available memory.


----------



## Valedictorian D

I would suggest the Platium version of the Denominators, and paint those


----------



## merlinx76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> What a coincidence, I'm building something similar to this for a client (minus the mod) and I was uncertain how to exploit all that RAM. He will also do content creation. How will you allocate that RAM?
> RAMdisk for photoshop's scratch disk or just huge available memory.


Doesn't Photoshop only use the scratch disk after it runs out of the usable RAM that you assign to it in the preferences?

I wanna do a build like this!! I have no need for more than a mainstream PC but still... If I only had a few extra G's lying around


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> How about I post my recent order done from the ship?


excellent. (say it outloud in mr.burns' voice)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> White Bitspower compression fittings are for sale on FrozenCPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to start stocking up on some myself to eventually switch over to them.


CHRIS YOU NEED THESE!!!! personally i've thought moonson looked cheap


----------



## nateman_doo

Is this the board for this build?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157327


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Is this the board for this build?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157327


Yes, the Asrock X79 Extreme11


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Is this the board for this build?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157327


lol loved the comment "Cons: rather pricey at $600 but was originally thought to sell for around $1000 and doesn't come with blowup doll"


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Is this the board for this build?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157327
> 
> 
> 
> lol loved the comment "Cons: rather pricey at $600 but was originally thought to sell for around $1000 and doesn't come with blowup doll"
Click to expand...

You missed the "i always buy evga sound cards"


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> You missed the "i always buy evga sound cards"


Saw that too...HEY!!!!!!!!! THE REVIEW WAS DELETED!! Was going to quote another part I remembered was funny,.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> You missed the "i always buy evga sound cards"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw that too...HEY!!!!!!!!! THE REVIEW WAS DELETED!! Was going to quote another part I remembered was funny,.
Click to expand...

Review's still there for me:


Spoiler: Review



Quote:


> Pros: supports DDR3-2400 MHz ram up to 64 gigs......uses japanese solid-state capacitors for longer life....can give true 4 way sli ...comes with LSI SAS2308 raid controller allowing a 8 SSD raid.....nice onboard core3d sound
> 
> Cons: rather pricey at $600 but was originally thought to sell for around $1000 and doesn't come with blowup doll
> 
> Other Thoughts: i am a builder of extreme pc's for over 20 years and am a serious overclocker......i have always gone with asus motheroards and evga sound cards and it is hard for me to change from this pattern.....i was using a intel 990x on a asus ramapage 3 extreme but it only has 2 ports for sata 6........i wanted to test out the new ivy with a 3960X and a rampage IV extreme until i saw the better raid controllers on the ASRock x79 extreme9 motherboard.......i am a raid fanatic ....used to hit raids in early 80's with the X pill$........now i am older than dirt and just build raids on my pc...........until ASUS, evga,MSi and gigabyte add more sata 6 ports i will only use ASRock.........was all ready to build new system with ASRock extreme9 until i saw the king of kings......the beast of motherboards the ASRock Extreme11x........if $600 seems like too much go a week without eating every month give up party materials and alcohol or go sell your "bleep" on a street corner and buy this motherboard


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Review's still there for me:


"if $600 seems like too much go a week without eating every month give up party materials and alcohol or go sell your "bleep" on a street corner and buy this motherboard"
Lol.

For me it didnt show up, said 0 reviews, now it says there is 1 5 star rating but doesnt load it. Weird.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Review's still there for me:
> 
> 
> 
> "if $600 seems like too much go a week without eating every month give up party materials and alcohol or go sell your "bleep" on a street corner and buy this motherboard"
> Lol.
> 
> For me it didnt show up, said 0 reviews, now it says there is 1 5 star rating but doesnt load it. Weird.
Click to expand...

lol


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> You missed the "i always buy evga sound cards"


LOOOL!!!!! missed that one


----------



## nateman_doo

I am in possession of the ASROCK board. I am going to start drafting up the block in the next few weeks. I need to hire an apprentice to help around my basement. To much work for only 2 hands. I have been staring at the block for some time now and I think its do-able. I will stare at it some more, but I think I can pull it off. My first thoughts are that the block will not be cheap though


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I am in possession of the ASROCK board. I am going to start drafting up the block in the next few weeks. I need to hire an apprentice to help around my basement. To much work for only 2 hands. I have been staring at the block for some time now and I think its do-able. I will stare at it some more, but I think I can pull it off. My first thoughts are that the block will not be cheap though


Hire me!!!!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I am in possession of the ASROCK board. I am going to start drafting up the block in the next few weeks. I need to hire an apprentice to help around my basement. To much work for only 2 hands. I have been staring at the block for some time now and I think its do-able. I will stare at it some more, but I think I can pull it off. My first thoughts are that the block will not be cheap though


From what I could tell, the block itself won't be hard, but you have to figure out how to get an inlet and outlet away from the GPUs, so you'll probably have to go up and over something (like the battery), no?


----------



## Electrocutor

Just a word on the Aquacomputer radiator flow. Since they are 4-pass and side-to-side, you need to take care that your air goes the right way to optimize heat transfer.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Definitely want the coolest air coming in on the side with the last water pass to optimize the cooling. Just like Electrocutor's picture.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> From what I could tell, the block itself won't be hard, but you have to figure out how to get an inlet and outlet away from the GPUs, so you'll probably have to go up and over something (like the battery), no?


The chipset area of the block is the easy part, but as you said the inlets will be the heartache. Its not impossible, but manufacturers that have to please broad spectrum, I don't have that limitation. The material selection might not be as bad as I initially thought.


----------



## nateman_doo

The board was actually missing a screw to hold the V-reg section down. Only 1 screw held the V-regs down. WTH... a $600 motherboard, and it has a screw loose.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> The board was actually missing a screw to hold the V-reg section down. Only 1 screw held the V-regs down. WTH... a $600 motherboard, and it has a screw loose.


From the Asrock Extreme 11 thread and other forums, issues like this seem to be very common. They have a real QC problem. You'd think $600 would buy at least a quick second look on the assembly line.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

$600 for a brown PCB


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> $600 for a brown PCB


Think about it this way, the board is packed so much that it appears to be the color of the chips.

Nateman, could the block make it's way between the DIMMs and the CPU socket to cool the top VRMs, surely that would simplify at least one inlet positionning.


----------



## General121

Its cause its ASRock







And yes, I do have something against them.


----------



## Simplynicko

so sexy


----------



## theseekeroffun

Got mine.....


----------



## aznpersuazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Got mine.....


Beast packaging...


----------



## Jeffinslaw

What size is this motherboard? On Newegg it listed the server size which I wasn't familiar with. Is it EATX? Or ATX?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## theseekeroffun

CEB 12" x 10.5"


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> CEB 12" x 10.5"


Thank you, I saw that but what does that compare to in ATX standards?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Thank you, I saw that but what does that compare to in ATX standards?
> Jeffinslaw


EATX plus some hang-over.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> EATX plus some hang-over.


Thank you!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## merlinx76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> EATX plus some hang-over.


I thought it was ATX plus some hangover, not quite as big as full EATX size

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merlinx76*
> 
> I thought it was ATX plus some hangover, not quite as big as full EATX size
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX


You're correct, sorry about that; ATX plus hang over. I hope it isn't plus hangover...


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You're correct, sorry about that; ATX plus hang over. I hope it isn't plus *hangover*...


Thats only if you receive a bad board.


----------



## nateman_doo

I think I am going to put the board on my CNC, so I can get the exact hole coordinates.


----------



## linkdiablo

General I gotta ask is the guy in your avatar dodging the stumps or painfully taking everyone?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I think I am going to put the board on my CNC, so I can get the exact hole coordinates.


Just don't get too tempted...


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Got mine.....


Congrats man!


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Just don't get too tempted...


Its the most accurate way for me to measure hole centers.

The chipset holes accommodate a 4-40 screw which is my main staple for waterblocks, so to get it as concentric as possible, I can put a drill bit upside down in the drill chuck, and drop it right in the hole, and write down the coordinates.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> General I gotta ask is the guy in your avatar dodging the stumps or painfully taking everyone?


he's just leaving work happily


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Its the most accurate way for me to measure hole centers.
> The chipset holes accommodate a 4-40 screw which is my main staple for waterblocks, so to get it as concentric as possible, I can put a drill bit upside down in the drill chuck, and drop it right in the hole, and write down the coordinates.


Do you already have the board or is cpachris sending it to you?


----------



## cpachris

Hello everyone! We have a sea day today, so I'm spending a few minutes trying to catch up with threads. Looks like we have several Extreme11's that members have received. I should have two waiting on me back home. Nate...sounds like you got your hands on one already....let me know if you still need one. If not...I may have an extra for sale if someone tried to get one and missed out.

So at home, I've got a lot of packages waiting on me:

- 2 Asrock extreme 11's
- 2 EVGA GTX 690's
- 64GB of Corsair Dominator GT ram
- 3960X
- Caselabs package (custom mounts)
- Copper plating package (a test run with some screws, faceplates, etc.)

I'll be home late Sunday night, and should be able to retrieve most of my packages on Monday. My goal will be to get a post this week, while I finish the water loop. Bitspower still being difficult.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hello everyone! We have a sea day today, so I'm spending a few minutes trying to catch up with threads. Looks like we have several Extreme11's that members have received. I should have two waiting on me back home. Nate...sounds like you got your hands on one already....let me know if you still need one. If not...I may have an extra for sale if someone tried to get one and missed out.
> So at home, I've got a lot of packages waiting on me:
> - 2 Asrock extreme 11's
> - 2 EVGA GTX 690's
> - 64GB of Corsair Dominator GT ram
> - 3960X
> - Caselabs package (custom mounts)
> - Copper plating package (a test run with some screws, faceplates, etc.)
> I'll be home late Sunday night, and should be able to retrieve most of my packages on Monday. My goal will be to get a post this week, while I finish the water loop. Bitspower still being difficult.


YAY!!!


----------



## 3930K

2 extreme 11s? Hmm... If you do a straight swap with a rive... I can dream


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Its the most accurate way for me to measure hole centers.
> The chipset holes accommodate a 4-40 screw which is my main staple for waterblocks, so to get it as concentric as possible, I can put a drill bit upside down in the drill chuck, and drop it right in the hole, and write down the coordinates.


... By tempted I meant that you have a board that is giving people some headaches mounted in your CNC... one might be tempted to exact revenge.


----------



## Truedeal

Just posting to put this back at top priority.


----------



## AtomTM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Just posting to put this back at top priority.


----------



## sortableturnip

Ok, you're home...WHERE ARE THOSE UPDATES!?!?!


----------



## ChosenOne

followed by









How didn't I see this thread before? This build is beyond amazing. Definitely subscribed.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Ok, you're home...WHERE ARE THOSE UPDATES!?!?!


Couldn't have said it better myself


----------



## Quest99




----------



## cpachris

Well.....I feel loved.

Still unpacking and doing laundry. Gained 15 pounds in 11 days. How was I able to accomplish that? Glad you asked. Every single cell in my body was stretched to twice its normal size by stuffing it full of fresh fish, pasta, beef and lots of carbs....every 3 hours or so. Next, for extra stretchability, I soaked each cell in a mixture of island rum for at least 4 hours each evening. For added impact, I would then expose all cells to some fine cuban cigar smoke every night. Lets just say I'm only showing pictures of myself during the first day or two of the trip....because I look quite different by the end of the trip.









I've started to go through my packages, so I'll add some pictures in between laundry loads this evening and tomorrow.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Well.....I feel loved.
> Still unpacking and doing laundry. Gained 15 pounds in 11 days. How was I able to accomplish that? Glad you asked. Every single cell in my body was stretched to twice its normal size by stuffing it full of fresh fish, pasta, beef and lots of carbs....every 3 hours or so. Next, for extra stretchability, I soaked each cell in a mixture of island rum for at least 4 hours each evening. For added impact, I would then expose all cells to some fine cuban cigar smoke every night. Lets just say I'm only showing pictures of myself during the first day or two of the trip....because I look quite different by the end of the trip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've started to go through my packages, so I'll add some pictures in between laundry loads this evening and tomorrow.


You do you your own laundry?


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Well.....I feel loved.
> Still unpacking and doing laundry. Gained 15 pounds in 11 days. How was I able to accomplish that? Glad you asked. Every single cell in my body was stretched to twice its normal size by stuffing it full of fresh fish, pasta, beef and lots of carbs....every 3 hours or so. Next, for extra stretchability, I soaked each cell in a mixture of island rum for at least 4 hours each evening. For added impact, I would then expose all cells to some fine cuban cigar smoke every night. Lets just say I'm only showing pictures of myself during the first day or two of the trip....because I look quite different by the end of the trip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've started to go through my packages, so I'll add some pictures in between laundry loads this evening and tomorrow.


All you can eat buffet at 9pm after dinner can be overwhelming. Here is to carb loading! haha


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> You do you your own laundry?


This....from the man who got rid of his Nautilus speakers because they clashed with his Ferrari?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> All you can eat buffet at 9pm after dinner can be overwhelming. Here is to carb loading! haha


Me before cruise:


Me after cruise:


----------



## cpachris

One of my packages waiting on me was from NewEgg, and contained the Asrock Extreme11 motherboard I have been waiting on. I got two of them, because I thought I might need to loan one to Nate for some custom waterblock work we've been discussing. Turns out he got his hands on one already, so I may have one of these for sale or trade soon.



Packaging is very nice and the board is secured well with foam. I doubt much bad happens to these during shipment




I know I read where one OCN'er received one that was either missing a screw or had a loose screw on a heatsink. Can't remember which. I don't see any such problems with the one box I've opened. Everything looks to be in great shape. Here is everything the box contains without the packaging:



Sata cords, SLI bridges, etc....and both a backplate AND a front 3.5" adapter for USB 3.0 connections. Nice. Here is a picture of the just the board. I remember I liked the looks of this right away when they started teasing us with the pictures back in February or so. I know everyone has their own idea on what the color scheme of a board should be like...but I just love this one.





Some fun pictures. Remember I'm loading big pictures....so you can click on any of these for a blown up view:










The board is CEB size, which basically is the same height as ATX, but one inch wider. Even so...the TH10 motherboard tray swallows this thing up.




And here are a few of the motherboard tray back inside the box. Really gives you a feel for how big the TH10's are. This board is bigger than an ATX board, and still looks tiny in here.






More from this package later tonight. Must fold clothes.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> One of my packages waiting on me was from NewEgg, and contained the Asrock Extreme11 motherboard I have been waiting on. I got two of them, because I thought I might need to loan one to Nate for some custom waterblock work we've been discussing. Turns out he got his hands on one already, so I may have one of these for sale or trade soon.
> 
> Packaging is very nice and the board is secured well with foam. I doubt much bad happens to these during shipment
> 
> 
> I know I read where one OCN'er received one that was either missing a screw or had a loose screw on a heatsink. Can't remember which. I don't see any such problems with the one box I've opened. Everything looks to be in great shape. Here is everything the box contains without the packaging:
> 
> Sata cords, SLI bridges, etc....and both a backplate AND a front 3.5" adapter for USB 3.0 connections. Nice. Here is a picture of the just the board. I remember I liked the looks of this right away when they started teasing us with the pictures back in February or so. I know everyone has their own idea on what the color scheme of a board should be like...but I just love this one.
> 
> 
> 
> Some fun pictures. Remember I'm loading big pictures....so you can click on any of these for a blown up view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The board is CEB size, which basically is the same height as ATX, but one inch wider. Even so...the TH10 motherboard tray swallows this thing up.
> 
> 
> And here are a few of the motherboard tray back inside the box. Really gives you a feel for how big the TH10's are. This board is bigger than an ATX board, and still looks tiny in here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More from this package later tonight. Must fold clothes.


HOLY COW I never realized how big that case was. Man thats HUGE. Pretty good looking board, though black on black is kinda "meh".


----------



## conntick

PCB is much more black than pictures I had seen before. This pleases me.
hahahah but really thanks for the update


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Haha sounds like an epic trip... Hope it was awesome!

EDIT: And an epic board


----------



## 3930K

Epic trio, epic board, epic case. Whats missing. Oh yes epic cells.

Also why isnt this in the mods section?


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> This....from the man who got rid of his Nautilus speakers because they clashed with his Ferrari?


They looked good with the Aston....



And they fit in well with the aquarium too....



And the Sohal liked them as well....



Enjoy the laundry..


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> They looked good with the Aston....
> And they fit in well with the aquarium too....
> And the Sohal liked them as well....
> Enjoy the laundry..


One butler or two?


----------



## cpachris

Along with the Asrock boards, I got my memory in the same package. Went with 64 GB (8 x 8) of Corsair Dominator GT 1866




Nothing too flashy about this ram, but I think its attractive. Decent speed and fairly tight timings. My hope will be to push it up to around 2100 or so. My understanding is you really won't be able to tell much of a difference above that, and because my memory is so dense, I might not be able to get much faster.




Here it is in the board on the tray:




And some pictures inside the case:





You can see by the case pictures that the red heatsinks don't match my color scheme at all. Right now I'm planning on waterblocks for the ram (I know...I know...unnecessary....don't want to hear it), so the red fins will come off. If for some reason I don't get blocks, I would probably do a light dusting of paint on the heatsinks to make them crimson.

Other mod opportunities with the ram include the stickers. Same way I made the custom vinyl stickers for all the fans, I will probably do something like that for the ram. The stickers have a little bit of the bright red, ....which clearly must go. Some crimson BBBB stickers are in order.

Working on some pictures of the GTX 690's right now. Should be posting more later tonight. I could probably post them quicker if Rocky would come fold my laundry.


----------



## lolllll117

wow this is an insane build! i can't wait to see the finished product!


----------



## 3930K

Still havent painted the baby fans.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> One butler or two?


In the words of Neil Young...A man needs a maid, and in my case, 2 maids.


----------



## lukelev07

Wow amazing build! Keep the photos coming!

Post 1000 woo!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolllll117*
> 
> wow this is an insane build! i can't wait to see the finished product!


Appreciate the kind words, lollll117!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Still havent painted the baby fans.


I'm going to do them at the same time I do the 140's, and when I started to play with taking the 140's apart for prep one night, I discovered that they are not the same easy pop right off fan blades like the 120 multi-frame. Need to gather my gusto before diving in.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> In the words of Neil Young...A man needs a maid, and in my case, 2 maids.


a good line, indeed. my favorite?...."it's better to burn out, than to fade away..."

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukelev07*
> 
> Wow amazing build! Keep the photos coming!
> Post 1000 woo!


Thanks lukelev07! Will be more later tonight.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> a good line, indeed. my favorite?...."it's better to burn out, than to fade away..."


Sounds like a line from a Dream Evil song, altough it could be a popular saying ... I know so little of those.


----------



## cpachris

Video card pictures. If you haven't been following the thread, I've selected two EVGA GTX 690. This will give me quad-SLI while saving the # of slots it takes up in the board, as well as saving some of the lanes available since I am using an external raid card. Not what I had originally planned on, but it ended up being the most logical solution for my build.

These boxes are absolutely mammoth:



And before everyone goes crackin' on me for getting the "signature" version....let me explain. I probably wouldn't pop an extra $100 bucks for the t-shirt and poster, but when I was ordering these I started first on NewEgg. Well, once I had two of them in my basket it balked at me and told me that only one per family could be ordered. Really? So....I didn't have a lot of time to search since I was leaving on my vacation in a matter of hours, but I found these two on Amazon and there was no "one per family" limit. So...I got them. Lets see what my extra $100 bucks really got me.



Ooooooo. I didn't know I got a mouse pad with it. Now we're talking. So, lets see. 2 big custom EVGA stickers, 1 XL t-shirt (only 50% poly







) , mousepad, poster and case badge! Well now...who feels stupid now?











The packaging really was superb. Feels like you could drop this box from a rooftop and not have any damage to card inside. Here is all the stuff from inside. Those 8-pin to 2x 6-pin adapters are finished in kind of a faux sleeve. It almost feels like a waxy dress shoelace. I love the color (almost matches my build). But....I'll probably be building my own cables for these monsters.



Here are some pictures of just the card:





And....as pretty as one card is....two are even prettier.




...on the motherboard tray.....



...and in the case....





These will of course look much different after I pull the air coolers off and put on some blocks. But I want to get everything loaded and tested this week so I can deal with any RMA's in a timely manner. The motherboard tray got a lot heavier with these two 690's. They really are quite beastly. Remember that this motherboard is an inch wider than ATX....and the cards still slightly hang over the edge. These cards are huge and heavy.

As far as mods, I'll probably be doing a custom backplate. Haven't decided if it will be in the white powdercoat, or in a copper plate finish. The wiring will also be custom colored MDPC-X sleeve, and depending on the block selected, it may have some LED lighting. Lots of options here. Lots more updates to come tomorrow!


----------



## nvidiaftw12




----------



## jellis142

I may have busted a blood vessel.


----------



## Quest99

WOW....Thats what I am talking about! Great pictures..as always!









This one is my favorite!



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## georgerm

Excuse me for just a little bit, as im cleaning up the drool on my keyboard.


----------



## sortableturnip

You undersold it!


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> One of my packages waiting on me was from NewEgg, and contained the Asrock Extreme11 motherboard I have been waiting on. I got two of them, because I thought I might need to loan one to Nate for some custom waterblock work we've been discussing. Turns out he got his hands on one already, so I may have one of these for sale or trade soon.


You are still welcome to send it








Id love to make something match those 690's too.


----------



## Bloitz

Had to close this thread when my mom walked in


----------



## Electrocutor

You might want to wait on the back plates until you know what you're going to do for lighting. You can use acrylic like fiber optics (similar to how the Raystorm works) if you wanted some light directed somewhere or to make highlights.


----------



## General121

My god this build is awesome and a super-power......


----------



## cpachris

I mentioned that I dropped off some more items at my local powdercoater before leaving for vacation, and I'll have some pictures of items I picked up yesterday throughout the day. First up, the AquaComputer AMS Radiators. This is a picture of the radiators I showed previously when I first got them:



I think they are incredibly attractive radiators without doing anything to them. But where is the fun in that? And regardless, I'm trying to minimize any color that is not part of the color scheme. So anything that is chrome or nickel or steel...is a candidate for change. And since they sell extra aluminum sides for these radiators, I'm really not risking a lot by changing the color of these. Here is what they look like now:



As you can see I chose white...and this is the same brand/color of powder that CaseLabs uses for their matte white cases....so it is an exact match for the inside of the case...and the other radiators I already had done. I think they look even better than before....at least for my build colors.




And here are a couple of pictures just sitting in the case. Not attached yet.




More to come later today!


----------



## Quest99

Love it!







This will allow you to add more copper color theme to your build. I might have missed this, but was there a reason why you did not go with SR-1 all the way?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

IMO, the copper clashes badly with the crimson :/


----------



## Valedictorian D

dang man, you are by far the craziest enthusiast of all i have see so far.all tho i would have gone with the platinum verison of the dominatoranyway awesome build


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will allow you to add more copper color theme to your build. I might have missed this, but was there a reason why you did not go with SR-1 all the way?


Well...I was originally going to have just 5 radiators in the box, and they were all S-1's. But then these darn AMS radiators came out, and I developed a full-on crush for the copper fin version. So...tried to find a way to fit them in...and ended up increasing radiator count to 7. They are really more for bling than additional cooling. I think the 5 SR-1's would probably have done an adequate job on their own.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> IMO, the copper clashes badly with the crimson :/


If you ever hire me to build you one....I won't use copper.







But for me....I love it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valedictorian D*
> 
> dang man, you are by far the craziest enthusiast of all i have see so far.all tho i would have gone with the platinum verison of the dominatoranyway awesome build


Looked at that one hard....but you can't use the "light bar" and also water cool, and I've decided that I like the look of watercooling blocks for the ram, more than the light bar. If I were not water cooling the ram, ....I definitely would have considered that one for my short list.


----------



## cpachris

For those that have been following the thread for awhile, you may remember my dilemma when I was trying to fit all 3 radiators down in the pedestal. It simply wasn't going to work....although I only needed an extra inch or so to make it work. You can relive my pain back in this post if you desire. Basically, I needed to have some small modifications done to the 480 radiator mounts in the pedestal, so that there would be room at the back of the pedestal for a 280 radiator. I worked with Jim at Caselabs and described what I was trying to do, and he was more than willing to help me get where I wanted to go. I appreciate their commitment to incredible customer service.

So here is a picture of the normal 480 radiator mount (on top) and the modified version that Jim made for me (on bottom)



There are two specific changes that were made. In the picture above, look on the left side of the bracket at the top one (normal). You see how right after the two thumbscrew holes, it turns in almost instantly (this bend goes in toward the middle of the pedestal) for about 1 inch, before then turning back the other way. In the modified version (on bottom), the turn inward does not happen right after the thumbscrew holes. Instead, it continues straight for almost 4 inches before turning inward. And then, instead of turning inward for a full inch, it only turns inward about 3/4 inch. See these modified brackets installed and in use in picture below:



They fit! That is 2 480 rads with push/pull fans, and 1 280 rad with push/pull fans. And I shall call it...."my box-o-cool".







Yeah...I know. Still need to give the 140mm fans the treatment. But did you notice the 280 radiator is now powdercoated also? It was another item I got back from powdercoater this week.



By extending the bracket straight for almost 4 inches before turning inward....I gained two inches (one inch on each side) across the pedestal for a 4 inch deep area starting the back of the pedestal. Also, by only turning in 3/4 inch instead of 1 inch, I gained an extra 1/2 inch of space in between the radiators in the center of the pedestal. I'm planning utilizing some of this space for some PowerAdjust2's that will be cooled by the airflow between the radiators.



Here are some shots with the pedestal covers on. The bolts on the fans come within about 1mm of the screens now. There was more room before we changed the inward bend from 1 inch to 3/4 inch. But that helps give me more room in the middle.





So pretty down there, its almost a shame it will covered by the main case. More to come later today!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I mentioned that I dropped off some more items at my local powdercoater before leaving for vacation, and I'll have some pictures of items I picked up yesterday throughout the day. First up, the AquaComputer AMS Radiators. This is a picture of the radiators I showed previously when I first got them:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think they are incredibly attractive radiators without doing anything to them. But where is the fun in that? And regardless, I'm trying to minimize any color that is not part of the color scheme. So anything that is chrome or nickel or steel...is a candidate for change. And since they sell extra aluminum sides for these radiators, I'm really not risking a lot by changing the color of these. Here is what they look like now:
> 
> As you can see I chose white...and this is the same brand/color of powder that CaseLabs uses for their matte white cases....so it is an exact match for the inside of the case...and the other radiators I already had done. I think they look even better than before....at least for my build colors.
> 
> 
> And here are a couple of pictures just sitting in the case. Not attached yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More to come later today!


Looking good! Would be even cooler if the black matte pieces were colored red








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> For those that have been following the thread for awhile, you may remember my dilemma when I was trying to fit all 3 radiators down in the pedestal. It simply wasn't going to work....although I only needed an extra inch or so to make it work. You can relive my pain back in this post if you desire. Basically, I needed to have some small modifications done to the 480 radiator mounts in the pedestal, so that there would be room at the back of the pedestal for a 280 radiator. I worked with Jim at Caselabs and described what I was trying to do, and he was more than willing to help me get where I wanted to go. I appreciate their commitment to incredible customer service.
> So here is a picture of the normal 480 radiator mount (on top) and the modified version that Jim made for me (on bottom)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two specific changes that were made. In the picture above, look on the left side of the bracket at the top one (normal). You see how right after the two thumbscrew holes, it turns in almost instantly (this bend goes in toward the middle of the pedestal) for about 1 inch, before then turning back the other way. In the modified version (on bottom), the turn inward does not happen right after the thumbscrew holes. Instead, it continues straight for almost 4 inches before turning inward. And then, instead of turning inward for a full inch, it only turns inward about 3/4 inch. See these modified brackets installed and in use in picture below:
> 
> They fit! That is 2 480 rads with push/pull fans, and 1 280 rad with push/pull fans. And I shall call it...."my box-o-cool".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah...I know. Still need to give the 140mm fans the treatment. But did you notice the 280 radiator is now powdercoated also? It was another item I got back from powdercoater this week.
> 
> By extending the bracket straight for almost 4 inches before turning inward....I gained two inches (one inch on each side) across the pedestal for a 4 inch deep area starting the back of the pedestal. Also, by only turning in 3/4 inch instead of 1 inch, I gained an extra 1/2 inch of space in between the radiators in the center of the pedestal. I'm planning utilizing some of this space for some PowerAdjust2's that will be cooled by the airflow between the radiators.
> 
> Here are some shots with the pedestal covers on. The bolts on the fans come within about 1mm of the screens now. There was more room before we changed the inward bend from 1 inch to 3/4 inch. But that helps give me more room in the middle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So pretty down there, its almost a shame it will covered by the main case. More to come later today!


Glad they were willing to work with you on this. They should make that change a permanent part of their design


----------



## Electrocutor

Are you planning to find or color some white sealing material? I'd hate to see you lose all your fan pressure.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Are you planning to find or color some white sealing material? I'd hate to see you lose all your fan pressure.


I've bought some samples of lots of different kinds. Even some from Home Depot, that you can get real cheap. Any of them could be spraypainted white. Haven't yet decided exactly what to do though. I have some of the Phobya you mentioned you had bought. Thought it was kind of thin....what did you think about that one?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've bought some samples of lots of different kinds. Even some from Home Depot, that you can get real cheap. Any of them could be spraypainted white. Haven't yet decided exactly what to do though. I have some of the Phobya you mentioned you had bought. Thought it was kind of thin....what did you think about that one?


The Phobya is 3mm that is compressible, so if the gap exceeds about 2.5mm, then use something thicker.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> If you ever hire me to build you one....I won't use copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But for me....I love it.


Fair enough!


----------



## cpachris

Awhile back, I showed you the disassembly of my card reader in this post. Here is a shot of what it looked like taken apart:



I dropped the two aluminum casing shown above by my local powder coater before leaving for vacation, and picked up the finished products yesterday. I had also decided to sleeve the black USB cables with white sleeve, so here are some pictures of my progress today. The USB header breaks out into two separate USB cables, and I had a tough time deciding how to tackle this. I haven't ever repinned a USB connector, and wasn't in the mood to try this evening. I also don't quite have everything mapped out for the bays yet, and don't want to create a custom wire until I know exactly where it will run from.

So...for my first try, I decided to try and slip some of the USB sleeve over the ends of the connectors. First I wrapped the black cable in white electrical tape. This GREATLY improves the finished look when you are using white sleeving.



Then I worked for awhile at getting the sleeve to go over one of the connectors. Was not easy, but I finally got it. Little bit of shrink on the end, and this one looked pretty good.




But when I started the second cable, I found that the end was especially side on this one because it was the connector that screws into the PCB on the card reader. Try as I might.....I could not get the sleeve to go over this connector. It's going to require removal of the connectors or a custom wire. So....for tonight, I decided just to use some EXTRA large sleeve, and put both of the cables inside it. To be honest....I don't think it looks great like this....although its better than doing nothing to it. I'll keep this one on my to-do list, and will come back and make a custom cable for this at some point. And...here are the powder coated panels and the sleeve:



Here it is inside the 3.5 bay adapter from Caselabs:



And some pictures in the case. Even though I need to do a better job on the sleeve/cable....I really like the white powder coated casing. It makes it blend right in with the inside of the case, instead of standing out and looking ugly.




More later tonight!


----------



## theseekeroffun

Chris,

Consider doing the card reader externally. You are doing an outstanding job and the card reader looks out of place and the black...please take this the right way. It looks a little cheap based upon the rest of the build. INMO, you are doing injustice to your meticulous build, and the card reader really doesn't belong in the "BBBB." Just my 2 centavos!
Please consult your own tax adviser.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

I think it could be made to fit beautifully, but that would require a custom faceplate!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Chris,
> Consider doing the card reader externally. You are doing an outstanding job and the card reader looks out of place and the black...please take this the right way. It looks a little cheap based upon the rest of the build. INMO, you are doing injustice to your meticulous build, and the card reader really doesn't belong in the "BBBB." Just my 2 centavos!
> Please consult your own tax adviser.


Appreciate the thoughts. But I would consider making a custom faceplate for it before I would consider external. I hate external and one of my goals is for everything to be in the box. That includes the Blu-Ray drive. But I might be able to use one of the crimson bay covers and fashion some sort of custom plate for it. Will have to think about it.


----------



## engmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Chris,
> Consider doing the card reader externally. You are doing an outstanding job and the card reader looks out of place and the black...please take this the right way. It looks a little cheap based upon the rest of the build. INMO, you are doing injustice to your meticulous build, and the card reader really doesn't belong in the "BBBB." Just my 2 centavos!
> Please consult your own tax adviser.


I think you could salvage it by just painting the plastic faceplate white.


----------



## Electrocutor

I'm confused why it even needs a double cable. I have a card reader that has a 13-in-1 card reader and USB female that attaches with a single cord.


----------



## vonalka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Appreciate the thoughts. But I would consider making a custom faceplate for it before I would consider external. I hate external and one of my goals is for everything to be in the box. That includes the Blu-Ray drive. But I might be able to use one of the crimson bay covers and fashion some sort of custom plate for it. Will have to think about it.


I personally agree with having everything inside the box and if you go with a custom plate for it and your bluray drive, that would be a great solution.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *engmitch*
> 
> I think you could salvage it by just painting the plastic faceplate white.


Ugh. No white on the outside. And...since its plastic, I can't duplicate the crimson powdercoat. Limits my options. I actually don't think the black looks bad at all. But I'll consider doing a faceplate out of one of the extra bay faceplates that I already have powder coated crimson.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'm confused why it even needs a double cable. I have a card reader that has a 13-in-1 card reader and USB female that attaches with a single cord.


Maybe the USB 3.0 specs require more bandwidth to be available? Not sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonalka*
> 
> I personally agree with having everything inside the box and if you go with a custom plate for it and your bluray drive, that would be a great solution.


Yeah...its a personal preference....but I don't like external things plugged into my box. Especially ones like a card reader that I use every single day.


----------



## cpachris

More powdercoated items. Do you remember the flow meter pictures? Here they are before my powdercoater got hold of them:



And here they are after I had the faceplates powdercoated white. They look fantastic in the case. Also, I had the aluminum casing for the Blu-Ray player powdercoated also, and now it matches perfectly.



For the Blu-Ray player, I'm going to borrow an idea I've seen several people do in our forum, and create a stealth blu-ray. I'll use one of my bay faceplates to completely cover the front of the Blu-Ray. All you will have to do is touch the faceplate, and the Blu-Ray door will pop out with the faceplate attached. It looked really slick when I saw pictures. i'll do a separate post on that whole process.



Remember from earlier post today when I talked about how my modified radiator mounts were bent inward 3/4" instead of a full inch? Well...this picture below shows why I needed it. Not much room to spare at all if I want to put the Blu-ray player in the pedestal. Since it matches the case perfectly you may have to look twice....but that is the top of the Blu-Ray player at the front of the pedestal (top of picture) between the rads and push/pull fans. No extra room at all...but it fits now. Thanks again Jim and CaseLabs!



More soon!


----------



## merlinx76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> For the Blu-Ray player, I'm going to borrow an idea I've seen several people do in our forum, and create a stealth blu-ray. I'll use one of my bay faceplates to completely cover the front of the Blu-Ray. All you will have to do is touch the faceplate, and the Blu-Ray door will pop out with the faceplate attached. It looked really slick when I saw pictures. i'll do a separate post on that whole process.


That'll be awesome!

I hope you can figure out something equally cool for the card reader.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> For the Blu-Ray player, I'm going to borrow an idea I've seen several people do in our forum, and create a stealth blu-ray. I'll use one of my bay faceplates to completely cover the front of the Blu-Ray. All you will have to do is touch the faceplate, and the Blu-Ray door will pop out with the faceplate attached. It looked really slick when I saw pictures. i'll do a separate post on that whole process.


That is exactly what I was thinking you should do for the card reader. A custom pop out face plate


----------



## linkdiablo

But then the Bluray tray will still be black, you should customize the bluray with a crimson disc tray and alu face plate. It would involve opening up the drive, but the build is surely over the top sufficiently to consider such a mod. I'm willing to bet you would be the first modder to ever go that far for aesthetic integrity.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

I have been in the shadows watching this build grow and all I have to say is WoW, This is hands down the BEST rig I've seen anyone build and it's not even done yet! One day I will build a rig this epic and when I do we can be epic rig buddies.









On another note, I couldn't get you to toss me one of those EVGA shirts could I.


----------



## vinnybear

Hi there,

awsome build

for your blu-ray and card reader why not use a stick on film as used for car wraps.
they can do any color normally and even graphics.

keep up the pc porn


----------



## TheHarvman313

Chris you post the best pc pr0n!!!! Thanks! Now I need a clean pair of shorts!!!


----------



## CiBi

this should be an 18+ rated thread, looks amazing m8


----------



## barkinos98

now this, this i like. this i friggen LOVE!!!!!







now that its all combining into one big box, it isnt hard to imagine of what to come. btw, i think it would look pretty amazing for a cpu only loop, but after spending this much gpus need blocks. the stock looks better than any block out there imo.


----------



## asg

Chris,

I used one of the face plates to cover my DVD drive. I have pictures in my log.

As for matching the color on the face plate, there is a way to do it. My friends that own a body shop have a paint scanner, it reads the color and then gives them a formula for the paint.

If you can't find someone in your area to do it, send me the face plate and something that is crimson and I will have some paint mixed for you.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merlinx76*
> 
> That'll be awesome! I hope you can figure out something equally cool for the card reader.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> That is exactly what I was thinking you should do for the card reader. A custom pop out face plate


Thanks merlin and turnip. I'll put some thought into it. But I'm going to focus on getting up and running first.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinnybear*
> 
> Hi there,
> awsome build for your blu-ray and card reader why not use a stick on film as used for car wraps. they can do any color normally and even graphics. keep up the pc porn


You mean kind of like carbon fiber wrap? I bought some black and white that I thought I might use in a few places. But I couldn't find anything that was real close to the crimson color of the case. If its even a little bit off...it looks worse that going for something with contrast, like all black.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> But then the Bluray tray will still be black, you should customize the bluray with a crimson disc tray and alu face plate. It would involve opening up the drive, but the build is surely over the top sufficiently to consider such a mod. I'm willing to bet you would be the first modder to ever go that far for aesthetic integrity.


Now that's extreme! On the list for consideration.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> I have been in the shadows watching this build grow and all I have to say is WoW, This is hands down the BEST rig I've seen anyone build and it's not even done yet! One day I will build a rig this epic and when I do we can be epic rig buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, I couldn't get you to toss me one of those EVGA shirts could I.


What? You want the t-shirt instead of that cool sticker?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Chris you post the best pc pr0n!!!! Thanks! Now I need a clean pair of shorts!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> this should be an 18+ rated thread, looks amazing m8


Thanks Harv and CiBi!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> now this, this i like. this i friggen LOVE!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now that its all combining into one big box, it isnt hard to imagine of what to come. btw, i think it would look pretty amazing for a cpu only loop, but after spending this much gpus need blocks. the stock looks better than any block out there imo.


Water gets such better temps than air for the GPUs that I really have to go that route. But yeah, I agree, that the stock air coolers look pretty good on these things. I'd have to get rid of the green writing....but these would be fun to give the "full treatment" to and turn them into a crimson dream.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> Chris,
> I used one of the face plates to cover my DVD drive. I have pictures in my log.
> As for matching the color on the face plate, there is a way to do it. My friends that own a body shop have a paint scanner, it reads the color and then gives them a formula for the paint. If you can't find someone in your area to do it, send me the face plate and something that is crimson and I will have some paint mixed for you.


I kind of thought I'd seen it in your log, but was too lazy to go back and check for sure. Here is the link to asg's post on a stealth drive if anyone missed it.

As far as matching the color with just paint....I have some reservations. My finish is a two powder process and the top coat is translucent. It is kind of hard to make out in pictures, but it has some depth, some texture, and some sparkle. I think it would be extremely hard to make it match perfectly with just paint. When I did my fans, I got pretty close by doing separate layers with different colors, ....but if the fans were mounted on the outside of the case, you would be able to see a difference.


----------



## linkdiablo

It's so stealthy that I don't see to open button, in windows you can open the drive without it but outside, I'm not so sure. How would you pop a Windows disk and boot off of it?

Looks like the stealth drive is pretty much out there along with the most radical optical drive mods. Chris, it is up to you to one up him!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> It's so stealthy that I don't see to open button, in windows you can open the drive without it but outside, I'm not so sure. How would you pop a Windows disk and boot off of it?
> Looks like the stealth drive is pretty much out there along with the most radical optical drive mods. Chris, it is up to you to one up him!


asg mentions in some of the comments following that post that it just takes a light press on the faceplate where it covers the button....to trigger opening it. How cool is that? No buttons or anything that shows. Very nice. Nothing to improve on here. Just need to copy/paste and move on.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> asg mentions in some of the comments following that post that it just takes a light press on the faceplate where it covers the button....to trigger opening it. How cool is that? No buttons or anything that shows. Very nice. *Nothing to improve on here*. Just need to copy/paste and move on.


Drill a small hole so you can force eject in case it jams or the rig is powered down. That's the only improvement I could think of.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Drill a small hole so you can force eject in case it jams or the rig is powered down. That's the only improvement I could think of.


Yep....that actually could come in handy. Thanks!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> What? You want the t-shirt instead of that cool sticker?


Anything you don't want.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Anything you don't want.


I got dibs on any liquid cooling parts he doesn't want anymore


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I got dibs on any liquid cooling parts he doesn't want anymore


Not quite what I meant, lol.


----------



## H Strong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Water gets such better temps than air for the GPUs that I really have to go that route. But yeah, I agree, that the stock air coolers look pretty good on these things. I'd have to get rid of the green writing....but these would be fun to give the "full treatment" to and turn them into a crimson dream.


Hmm a red (I know, I know, crimson) Nvidia card. Not sure if want...







. Otherwise great build Chris. Followed this from the sleeve dying through the mod. Love your work.


----------



## barkinos98

well actually yeah, you can make a freebie on parts you dont plan to use, or just sell them for cheap so people with worse rigs than yours can go w/c


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Anything you don't want.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I got dibs on any liquid cooling parts he doesn't want anymore


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> well actually yeah, you can make a freebie on parts you dont plan to use, or just sell them for cheap so people with worse rigs than yours can go w/c


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*


ahahaah sir you just made my night (its 10.30pm here)


----------



## innisso

WOW! This is gonna be my first post even though I've been following since the first few posts, and this is looking to be a great build here! Keep up the good work!


----------



## asg

if you ever needed to get the drive open, if you pulled hard enough, the tape may release.







I have never had a disk stuck in a drive before.

As far as the color match, a good body shop should be able to replicate the finish, no matter how much depth and sparkle.

You could also just find a card reader with a metal front plate and have it powdercoated. Lian Li makes one.


----------



## tdhall81

sub'd. you make me want to move out of my 800D to a Caselabs case so bad!


----------



## 3930K

Any photos of the 3960X?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdhall81*
> 
> sub'd. you make me want to move out of my 800D to a Caselabs case so bad!


Do it. You will never regret it. I lived in Raleigh for awhile. Didn't spend a lot of time in Charlotte though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Any photos of the 3960X?


Coming up. I actually didn't get it until yesterday because of BofA declining the initial NewEgg charge. I had to call on Monday when I got back from vacation. BofA routinely declines my NewEgg charges, until I call them. Frustrating. When I've complained, they just say that there is a lot of fraud with NewEgg. Does this happen to anybody else?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tdhall81*
> 
> sub'd. you make me want to move out of my 800D to a Caselabs case so bad!
> 
> 
> 
> Do it. You will never regret it. I lived in Raleigh for awhile. Didn't spend a lot of time in Charlotte though.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Any photos of the 3960X?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Coming up. I actually didn't get it until yesterday because of BofA declining the initial NewEgg charge. I had to call on Monday when I got back from vacation. BofA routinely declines my NewEgg charges, until I call them. Frustrating. When I've complained, they just say that there is a lot of fraud with NewEgg. Does this happen to anybody else?
Click to expand...

How did the Extreme11 come through then


----------



## BlazinJoker

He bought 2 extreme11's while only one 3960x...obvious fraud here don't you see!


----------



## cpachris

3960X pictures










I forgot that Intel wasn't shipping these things with a stock heatsink and fan. Since I'll want to get it running before my water loop is done, now I need a quick/cheap air cooler to use until my loop is ready. Will be ordering today. Any suggestions? Kind of a pain....but this will also let me record all the temperatures on air....and compare them to the underwater temperatures once loop is done.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 3960X pictures
> 
> *snip*
> 
> I forgot that Intel wasn't shipping these things with a stock heatsink and fan. Since I'll want to get it running before my water loop is done, now I need a quick/cheap air cooler to use until my loop is ready. Will be ordering today. Any suggestions? Kind of a pain....but this will also let me record all the temperatures on air....and compare them to the underwater temperatures once loop is done.


Hyper 212 EVO.

Also I'd love some pics of the Intel Inside label.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> He bought 2 extreme11's while only one 3960x...obvious fraud here don't you see!


lol.


----------



## vonalka

The 3960x is a great looking CPU - nice pics


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *innisso*
> 
> WOW! This is gonna be my first post even though I've been following since the first few posts, and this is looking to be a great build here! Keep up the good work!


Welcome innisso! Glad to have you aboard.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> You could also just find a card reader with a metal front plate and have it powdercoated. Lian Li makes one.


I should have been thinking of that when I first purchased. I was able to send the aquaero faceplate and the FC8 faceplate in for some crimson powdercoating. Should be here tomorrow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> How did the Extreme11 come through then


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> He bought 2 extreme11's while only one 3960x...obvious fraud here don't you see!


Not sure. They split the order up into two parts....sent the 2 Asrock boards, and denied the processor. Go figure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Hyper 212 EVO.


Will check it out. Thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonalka*
> 
> The 3960x is a great looking CPU - nice pics


Thanks vonalka!


----------



## GingerJohn

Been a little while since I checked progress on this build, it is looking awesome. Great job and legendary attention to detail there.

One thing I picked up on in the pedestal:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pedestal pics


You have all the fans in pull, rather than push pull, on each rad. You need to flip one set on each rad round or it isn't going to work.


----------



## Blizlake

How much is the 212 Evo? Thermalright macho HR02 is around the same price here, and a lot better cooler. Not that it matters since you wont be staying air for long...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Been a little while since I checked progress on this build, it is looking awesome. Great job and legendary attention to detail there.
> One thing I picked up on in the pedestal:
> You have all the fans in pull, rather than push pull, on each rad. You need to flip one set on each rad round or it isn't going to work.


Thanks! And good eyes on the pictures. But I haven't put them in their final places yet. Only two bolts in each...just to get a feel for wiring positioning. My final airflow will be directly across from one side to another of the pedestal.....Up from the floor of the pedestal....and out the back of the pedestal.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> How much is the 212 Evo? Thermalright macho HR02 is around the same price here, and a lot better cooler. Not that it matters since you wont be staying air for long...


I'll check that one out also. Thanks.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 3960X pictures
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot that Intel wasn't shipping these things with a stock heatsink and fan. Since I'll want to get it running before my water loop is done, now I need a quick/cheap air cooler to use until my loop is ready. Will be ordering today. Any suggestions? Kind of a pain....but this will also let me record all the temperatures on air....and compare them to the underwater temperatures once loop is done.


maybe the stock intel fan that you have to buy externally? or go for whats the best, and use it around somehow, im sure you have other computers being used


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> maybe the stock intel fan that you have to buy externally? or go for whats the best, and use it around somehow, im sure you have other computers being used


I have no other LGA2011 boxes right now. CPU coolers grow dated pretty quickly as sockets change.

Perusing FCPU right. Liking this one......

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...al_CPU_Cooler_-_Red.html?tl=g40c14s1568#blank

Probably overkill for a temporary cooler....but I guess I could sell it on the cheap when I'm done. Colors will work well for me!


----------



## The_chemist21

You can reuse your 1366 coolers if you have some with a $5 adapter kit like this Prolimatech mounting kit, just purchase the correct kit for your particular cooler.


----------



## TPE-331

Chris, you need to change the name of your log to "About To Kick Ass And Take Names"


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Chris, you need to change the name of your log to "About To Kick Ass And Take Names"


"My build log's name is Duke Nukem...and I'm all out of gum..."


----------



## Quest99

Very nice pictures. What lens do you use?










and I like the cpu cooler you picked.


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Very nice pictures. What lens do you use?


I was just about to ask the same question. After seeing the pics in this thread I decided to replace my Canon point-and-shoot and my Minolta X-700 with a Canon EOS 600D (Rebel T3i for you guys in the States) and get back into photography. Damn, Chis is making me spend way too much money









What aperture did you use for the pics of the CPU pins?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> You can reuse your 1366 coolers if you have some with a $5 adapter kit like this Prolimatech mounting kit, just purchase the correct kit for your particular cooler.


Or if you use the R4E.


----------



## General121

I second the 212 evo, or the Hyper 212+ if it is compatible.

FYI, With my Hyper 212+, ive had better temps than some guys under water


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I second the 212 evo, or the Hyper 212+ if it is compatible.
> FYI, *With my Hyper 212+, ive had better temps than some guys under water*


Even at the same clocks as those chips under water? I highly doubt that unless you live in Antarctica.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Even at the same clocks as those chips under water? I highly doubt that unless you live in Antarctica.


I live in Virginia, USA.

And yes, even at same clocks. Im not saying ive had better than all, but better than a few.

EDIT: My i5 2500k is currently at 4.5GHz. 35C idle-ish and around 60-65max on load ( Folding)


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I second the 212 evo, or the Hyper 212+ if it is compatible.
> 
> FYI, *With my Hyper 212+, ive had better temps than some guys under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


How u do dat?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> How u do dat?


Check my edited post and see if you think they are any good. I read some build logs and other posts and whatnot and noticed my temps were better. Like mine were similar to Nocturin's in his "kuhler chronicles" original post thread.

Though my friend got like 22C idle in his water loop I believe with an AMD CPU


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Chris, you need to change the name of your log to "About To Kick Ass And Take Names"


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> "My build log's name is Duke Nukem...and I'm all out of gum..."


Love it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Very nice pictures. What lens do you use?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I like the cpu cooler you picked.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> I was just about to ask the same question. After seeing the pics in this thread I decided to replace my Canon point-and-shoot and my Minolta X-700 with a Canon EOS 600D (Rebel T3i for you guys in the States) and get back into photography. Damn, Chis is making me spend way too much money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What aperture did you use for the pics of the CPU pins?


For the normal-ish CPU pictures, it was this lens:
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_164426_-1

For the close-up shots, I used this lens:
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_157395_-1

If you want the real narrow field of focus, where only one point in the picture is in focus and the rest is blured...you need to open the aperture as wide as you can, and get as close as you can to the subject. I had this macro lens at 2.8. The biggest difference in a macro lens and a regular lens is just its ability to focus from close distances. For the close-up CPU shots, I was probably just a few inches away from the CPU.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Check my edited post and see if you think they are any good. I read some build logs and other posts and whatnot and noticed my temps were better. Like mine were similar to Nocturin's in his "kuhler chronicles" original post thread.
> Though my friend got like 22C idle in his water loop I believe with an AMD CPU


And idle temeratures matter since ...?

And I don't really consider the closed loops real watercooling, and I think I'm not alone on this. Not saying the 212+ is bad because it's great for the price but better than a custom waterloop? Nah, not by a long shot.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> And idle temeratures matter since ...?
> And I don't really consider the closed loops real watercooling, and I think I'm not alone on this. Not saying the 212+ is bad because it's great for the price but better than a custom waterloop? Nah, not by a long shot.


Idle temps matter. Keeps a room cooler, for one thing.

My friend who got the 22c idle was doing a custom water loop. But the thing is, is all that extra maintenance, work, etc TRULY worth it over air for a few measly C? ( and thats if it even does beat it).

Plus if water loop breaks....Your whole desktop COULD be ruined, or you could get lucky and nothing is ruined.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> And idle temeratures matter since ...?
> And I don't really consider the closed loops real watercooling, and I think I'm not alone on this. Not saying the 212+ is bad because it's great for the price but better than a custom waterloop? Nah, not by a long shot.


Hmm, I believe the CLS systems use water to transfer heat to the radiator so In fact I would say this is "real" water cooling. But setting that aside, custom WC loops are better because they generally have better rads and pumps, not to mention the custom loops can look worlds better in terms of personification. I mean I can't get the most out of my 280 rad with just a wimpy H50 pump.


----------



## Quest99

Nice lens! I should really get a macro lens and get into product photography.

I am pulling it off with my portrait lens atm.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Nice lens! I should really get a macro lens and get into product photography.
> I am pulling it off with my portrait lens atm.


Nice! What camera/lens are you using?


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Nice! What camera/lens are you using?


Right now I am practicing with my Nikon D90 until I get better and go D800e.

My portrait lens is a Nikon 85mm f1.4 aka cream machine.



Cheers!


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Nice lens! I should really get a macro lens and get into product photography.
> I am pulling it off with my portrait lens atm.


Don't mean to thread jack but you can get great product shots with a cooler and a few lamps/lights. I prefer to work with a flash but lights work just as well.

I believe this was shot with a few 100 watt bulbs.

12W6v2small by Adam.Mrugacz, on Flickr

And here is an example with a flash and a cooler.


For this this shot:

Canon 135L by Adam.Mrugacz, on Flickr

A few peices of white foam board and/or poster board work well to. Although I have like the cooler solution for smaller stuff, nothing extra to store and I already have it. The key is to bounce light around the subject and don't directly light it to avoid shadows. I like a bright background so I overexpose quite a bit.

Back on topic:
Love this build, I hope you keep it clean. Right now it looks amazing but so many builds like this go down hill at this stage when tubing runs get crazy and wiring gets sloppy.


----------



## cpachris

I've done some updating of the index and parts list in the opening post. The index can be pretty useful since this thread has grown to so many pages.

Separate note...I'm expecting a couple of packages today. The first is 16 Vertex 4 SSD's from Amazon. The 512GB have come down to $545, which isn't bad. I'm also expecting a CaseLabs package with the remainder of my crimson items, and some more accessories. The thing I need the most from this shipment are the PSU sides that I had crimson powdercoated. To get the PSU's working again I'll have to solder some wires back together, and I've needed the PSU sides back before I can do this. I've also had the fan grills for the PSU's copper plated, but those won't be back until probably Tuesday. Some other fun stuff in the CaseLabs order include all 3 of my case tops, the new XXL window doors, the USB 3.0 switch retrofit kit, and various accessory plates.

I've also still got a custom bottom plate for the pedestal that I've already received and need to take some pictures of to show you.

More later today.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've done some updating of the index and parts list in the opening post. The index can be pretty useful since this thread has grown to so many pages.
> 
> Separate note...I'm expecting a couple of packages today. The first is 16 Vertex 4 SSD's from Amazon. The 512GB have come down to $545, which isn't bad. I'm also expecting a CaseLabs package with the remainder of my crimson items, and some more accessories. The thing I need the most from this shipment are the PSU sides that I had crimson powdercoated. To get the PSU's working again I'll have to solder some wires back together, and I've needed the PSU sides back before I can do this. I've also had the fan grills for the PSU's copper plated, but those won't be back until probably Tuesday. Some other fun stuff in the CaseLabs order include all 3 of my case tops, the new XXL window doors, the USB 3.0 switch retrofit kit, and various accessory plates.
> 
> I've also still got a custom bottom plate for the pedestal that I've already received and need to take some pictures of to show you.
> 
> More later today.


16 V4s?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 16 V4s?


Well then...


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Idle temps matter. Keeps a room cooler, for one thing.


Different idle temperatures aren't going to affect the temperature of the room. The processor is going to be putting out the same wattage of heat no matter what (assuming it's under the same load). The temperature difference just represents how efficiently the heat is being removed from the chip--but the same amount of heat is being removed regardless.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 16 V4s?


This is going to be insane! Will follow closely how Chris will hook this all up via his raid card.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Hmm, I believe the CLS systems use water to transfer heat to the radiator so In fact I would say this is "real" water cooling.


Real? Yes.
Proper? Not by a long shot.

Damn I'd love to get a decent macro lens for my D90, I currently have the 18-105mm one that came with it (pretty bad) and a 70-300mm one which is actually decent, I use it mainly for floorball photos with a unipod. But it's either camera or computer, no money to get good kit for both...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 16 V4s?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Well then...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> This is going to be insane! Will follow closely how Chris will hook this all up via his raid card.


I'm sure I'll experiment with speeds on similar arrays setup on the Areca card vs the LSI chip on board, but right now I'm planning this:

2x 256 GB in Raid 0 using the X79 chipset for OS/Programs
4x 256 GB in Raid 0 using LSI on board HBA for scratch drives and render drive
10X 512 GB in Raid 5 or 3 using the Areca ARC 1882ix-16 for storage

I'll probably grow into needing more than 10 disks for the stoarge array, but for now, I could use the Areca card to power both the storage array and the scratch array. Will do tests of both to see speed. Since I opted for the 2x 690's, I actually have a couple of slots to play with, and could use two raid cards if the speed is significantly faster than the LSI chip.

With 64GB of ram, I may play with using a Ramdisk also. Never done that before.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Real? Yes.
> Proper? Not by a long shot.
> Damn I'd love to get a decent macro lens for my D90, I currently have the 18-105mm one that came with it (pretty bad) and a 70-300mm one which is actually decent, I use it mainly for floorball photos with a unipod. But it's either camera or computer, no money to get good kit for both...


I have the same 70-300 lens and here is a picture I took at the game. I was really far with no tripod, but the VR worked pretty good.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm sure I'll experiment with speeds on similar arrays setup on the Areca card vs the LSI chip on board, but right now I'm planning this:
> 2x 256 GB in Raid 0 using the X79 chipset for OS/Programs
> 4x 256 GB in Raid 0 using LSI on board HBA for scratch drives and render drive
> 10X 512 GB in Raid 5 or 3 using the Areca ARC 1882ix-16 for storage
> I'll probably grow into needing more than 10 disks for the stoarge array, but for now, I could use the Areca card to power both the storage array and the scratch array. Will do tests of both to see speed. Since I opted for the 2x 690's, I actually have a couple of slots to play with, and could use two raid cards if the speed is significantly faster than the LSI chip.
> With 64GB of ram, I may play with using a Ramdisk also. Never done that before.


Nice, I will take a lot of notes when you set it up, I believe Vega ran into some trouble with his SSD set up. (8 x vertex 4 in raid 0)

I wonder how much faster all those scratch drives will improve your overall speed.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 16 V4s?


you know, some companies do this. like BMW and their M5's. they have to improve it every single time, which they do succeed, but how the hell can you upgrade a V10 5 Liter monsta? basically, you just outdid your self chris, not that we don't like it


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Real? Yes.
> Proper? Not by a long shot.
> Damn I'd love to get a decent macro lens for my D90, I currently have the 18-105mm one that came with it (pretty bad) and a 70-300mm one which is actually decent, I use it mainly for floorball photos with a unipod. But it's either camera or computer, no money to get good kit for both...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same 70-300 lens and here is a picture I took at the game. I was really far with no tripod, but the VR worked pretty good.
Click to expand...

I don't think that we have the same lens







Yours is probably the Nikkor AF-S 70-300/4.5-5.6G which costs 700€ here, mine is a Sigma 70-300/4-5.6G which was like 250€. I would have bought the Nikon one but couldn't afford it.

I also just noticed, 16x Vertex4's?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've done some updating of the index and parts list in the opening post. The index can be pretty useful since this thread has grown to so many pages.
> Separate note...I'm expecting a couple of packages today. The first is 16 Vertex 4 SSD's from Amazon. The 512GB have come down to $545, which isn't bad. I'm also expecting a CaseLabs package with the remainder of my crimson items, and some more accessories. The thing I need the most from this shipment are the PSU sides that I had crimson powdercoated. To get the PSU's working again I'll have to solder some wires back together, and I've needed the PSU sides back before I can do this. I've also had the fan grills for the PSU's copper plated, but those won't be back until probably Tuesday. Some other fun stuff in the CaseLabs order include all 3 of my case tops, the new XXL window doors, the USB 3.0 switch retrofit kit, and various accessory plates.
> I've also still got a custom bottom plate for the pedestal that I've already received and need to take some pictures of to show you.
> More later today.


Let's see 16 x $545 = $8720!?!?!









I found you the most awesome CPU block BTW



.925 Silver block! Best temps plus no need for a silver coil!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Real? Yes.
> Proper? Not by a long shot.
> Damn I'd love to get a decent macro lens for my D90, I currently have the 18-105mm one that came with it (pretty bad) and a 70-300mm one which is actually decent, I use it mainly for floorball photos with a unipod. But it's either camera or computer, no money to get good kit for both...


If you would have read the rest of my post You would notice I agreed with you before you singled out that one line.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Let's see 16 x $545 = $8720!?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found you the most awesome CPU block BTW
> 
> .925 Silver block! Best temps plus no need for a silver coil!


Not sure those would fit with the color theme and I think he is going with copper ones.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Let's see 16 x $545 = $8720!?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found you the most awesome CPU block BTW
> 
> .925 Silver block! Best temps plus no need for a silver coil!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure those would fit with the color theme and I think he is going with copper ones.
Click to expand...

He can afford to have it powdercoated on the outside lol.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> He can afford to have it powdercoated on the outside lol.


Touché this is Chris after all.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> He can afford to have it powdercoated on the outside lol.


Exactly! If you're going to go balls out on everything else, might as well have the best CPU block made









I wonder if you could get those GPU blocks in silver?









Maybe you can ask your machining buddy to make you some custom silver blocks for the GPU and chipset


----------



## Quest99

I wonder if the silver will tarnish over time? or is it protected coated of some sort?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> I wonder if the silver will tarnish over time? or is it protected coated of some sort?


I couldn't find any information on that. Can only assume they do...


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> I wonder if the silver will tarnish over time? or is it protected coated of some sort?
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't find any information on that. Can only assume they do...
Click to expand...

Yes. The only thing that's better is gold though iirc.


----------



## sortableturnip

Oh, they do make a copper top one too


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Oh, they do make a copper top one too


But that's no fun!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Yes. The only thing that's better is gold though iirc.


Carbon Nanotubes, Diamond, and Graphene are the only ones with more thermal conductivity


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Yes. The only thing that's better is gold though iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> Carbon Nanotubes, Diamond, and Graphene are the only ones with more thermal conductivity
Click to expand...

I meant about tarnishing
.

EDIT: BAH fare too much Terraria.


----------



## theseekeroffun

It doesn't tarnish, the top is nickel and the bottom is silver.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> It doesn't tarnish, the top is nickel and the bottom is silver.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


(1) Is that the silver version?

(2) If the bottom is silver, can it tarnish?

(3) If so, can that cause temps to go up?


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> (1) Is that the silver version?
> (2) If the bottom is silver, can it tarnish?
> (3) If so, can that cause temps to go up?


Yes, it is the silver version with nickel. You can also get a copper top with a silver bottom. There was no tarnish on mine.


----------



## Electrocutor

Something in the back of my head is telling me that having a large surface area of silver attached directly to a large surface area of copper with water between them would invite issues.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Something in the back of my head is telling me that having a large surface area of silver attached directly to a large surface area of copper with water between them would invite issues.


Nope. They actually have to do that.

What I'm more worried about is silver and nickel...


----------



## mphysgr

In an ideal world, there would be no corrosion with a non-conducting coolant. I am sure that impurities will be picked up by the coolant lowering its resistance but hopefully this is minimal. I suppose regularly changing the coolant would reduce this though…


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Nope. They actually have to do that.
> What I'm more worried about is silver and nickel...


The nickel is on the outside.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Nope. They actually have to do that.
> What I'm more worried about is silver and nickel...
> 
> 
> 
> The nickel is on the outside.
Click to expand...

Only?

That's good then.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Only?
> That's good then.


I have to take it apart and clean it this weekend, so I will take some pics.


----------



## Quest99

This is going to be BBBB!











http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96dWOEa4Djs&fmt=22


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> He can afford to have it powdercoated on the outside lol.


Yes, he can have FrozenCPU powdercoat it before they ship it too.


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> One of my packages waiting on me was from NewEgg, and contained the Asrock Extreme11 motherboard I have been waiting on. I got two of them, because I thought I might need to loan one to Nate for some custom waterblock work we've been discussing. Turns out he got his hands on one already, so I may have one of these for sale or trade soon.
> 
> Packaging is very nice and the board is secured well with foam. I doubt much bad happens to these during shipment
> 
> I know I read where one OCN'er received one that was either missing a screw or had a loose screw on a heatsink. Can't remember which. I don't see any such problems with the one box I've opened. Everything looks to be in great shape. Here is everything the box contains without the packaging:
> 
> Sata cords, SLI bridges, etc....and both a backplate AND a front 3.5" adapter for USB 3.0 connections. Nice. Here is a picture of the just the board. I remember I liked the looks of this right away when they started teasing us with the pictures back in February or so. I know everyone has their own idea on what the color scheme of a board should be like...but I just love this one.
> 
> Some fun pictures. Remember I'm loading big pictures....so you can click on any of these for a blown up view:
> 
> The board is CEB size, which basically is the same height as ATX, but one inch wider. Even so...the TH10 motherboard tray swallows this thing up.
> 
> And here are a few of the motherboard tray back inside the box. Really gives you a feel for how big the TH10's are. This board is bigger than an ATX board, and still looks tiny in here.
> 
> More from this package later tonight. Must fold clothes.


Should have spoiled, but oh well.

Imo, you should have went with a Dual socket Mobo....just to have it









Mod Edit: Please don't quote that many photos


----------



## Systemlord

^^^^^


----------



## linkdiablo

Dual socket motherboards only work with two CPU if you get Xeons wich are 100% multiplier locked.

So a trade off has to be made, more stock cores or fewer OCed cores


----------



## The_chemist21

Yup for an overall system the single socket is much better for LGA 2011.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Imo, you should have went with a Dual socket Mobo....just to have it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Dual socket motherboards only work with two CPU if you get Xeons wich are 100% multiplier locked. So a trade off has to be made, more stock cores or fewer OCed cores


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Yup for an overall system the single socket is much better for LGA 2011.


I thought long and hard about a dual socket board, but in the end, the ability to overclock a single CPU was more desirable for me. Now...if we ever get some truly unlocked Xeons....you'll be seeing BBBB version 2.0 pretty quickly.


----------



## 3930K

Make a 4P folding farm for OCN then!


----------



## cpachris

Here is the CaseLabs box that showed up yesterday:



That's a big box. Clearly lots in there to show. And I'm always amazed at the quality of the packaging inside the box also. Lots of individually wrapped items, bubble wrap, etc. Well done CaseLabs.

Lets start with something small, and I'll work into some bigger things later. Jim was kind enough to powdercoat a few faceplates for me in the crimson color to match the case. One of them was for my Aquaero...so lets put that together and see what it looks like. First, I need to take it apart and take off the heatsink and put on the waterblock I got for it.




Put down some new thermal tape......



And screw the block on.




To get to the screws for the heatsink and wateblock, I had to separate the two PCB's that this thing has. Two! Here is a shot with the two PCB's back together.


And here are a few "studio" shots for fun. The crimson faceplate looks awesome, and I also had the brackets on the side powdercoated white to match the inside of the case.





And here is a shot in the case.


It doesn't sit extremely flush with the standard adapters, so I may need to switch to the adjustable adapters in order to get it set just right.

Much more later today.


----------



## 3930K

Le horror! You changed avatar!

Edit: nvm ipad screwed up


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> This is going to be BBBB!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96dWOEa4Djs&fmt=22


I hope my wiring is a little nicer.







But did you see he has crimson hair! Awesome!


----------



## Quest99

Nicely done on the faceplates. A+++ on staying clean and simple.


----------



## barkinos98

watercooled fan controller? now THAT's overkill. thats how we do it on our side


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> watercooled fan controller? now THAT's overkill. thats how we do it on our side


You basically have to if you want to use to it's full potential, and it looks cool.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Nicely done on the faceplates. A+++ on staying clean and simple.


Yeah....its easy to stay clean and simple with no wiring in the box yet.







But I do plan on making a major effort to make the wiring as clean as possible. With 50 fans this will be a challenge....but I've got it kind of mapped out in my head.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> watercooled fan controller? now THAT's overkill. thats how we do it on our side


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> You basically have to if you want to use to it's full potential, and it looks cool.


I'm actually more worried about the PowerAdjusts heating up too much. Have read in some threads about throttling of these when running several fans and undervolting them. Perhaps we could get Nate to make us a custom waterblock for the PowerAdjusts?


----------



## cpachris

Here are a few more items from my CaseLabs box. I got the 85mm top and the 64mm top, in addition to the standard top. Since I plan on this case lasting me through 10+ years of parts upgrades...I wanted to keep it as flexible as possible.



Right now, I've got radiators and fans on the top of the case that need to fit under the top....so I need the 85mm top. When I was selecting radiators, one of the requirements was for it to be less than 60mm, so that I could set it up this way. I like the idea if keeping the radiators compartmentalized and have hopes that it contributes to better air temps inside the main compartment of the case.



I guess the 64mm top would be for people who want the radiators on top of the case but won't be using any fans in pull. The standard top isn't deep enough to have fans on the top of the case...so its only for use when everything is in the main compartment. It would be nice if there was a top option of about 30mm that allowed just fans to be on top of the case. Maybe soon Jim?


----------



## Quest99

Hello B&W!









Nice tops! How is the paint job? Pretty much scratch resistant?


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yeah....its easy to stay clean and simple with no wiring in the box yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I do plan on making a major effort to make the wiring as clean as possible. With 50 fans this will be a challenge....but I've got it kind of mapped out in my head.
> I'm actually more worried about the PowerAdjusts heating up too much. Have read in some threads about throttling of these when running several fans and undervolting them. Perhaps we could get Nate to make us a custom waterblock for the PowerAdjusts?


Get 50 custom sleeved PWM extensions and route them as one big bundle and then at each dispersion point have the ones that are needed branch off as another single cable. (use black zip ties to make them all look like one cable)

Let me know if I'm the only one that can understand this explanation.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Let's see 16 x $545 = $8720!?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found you the most awesome CPU block BTW
> 
> .925 Silver block! Best temps plus no need for a silver coil!


Any thought on getting a silver CPU block?















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Since I plan on this case lasting me through 10+ years of parts upgrades...I wanted to keep it as flexible as possible.


So, you like your cases like you like your women, huh?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Hello B&W!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice tops! How is the paint job? Pretty much scratch resistant?


Yes, its a nice thick coat of powder (actually a two coat process), and its very scratch resistant. I don't have a lot of experience with paint and powders, but my limited experience has been that powders are much more scratch resistant....and the finish is pretty flawless. No paint drips...etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Get 50 custom sleeved PWM extensions and route them as one big bundle and then at each dispersion point have the ones that are needed branch off as another single cable. (use black zip ties to make them all look like one cable)
> Let me know if I'm the only one that can understand this explanation.


I think we can do better than 50 wires zip tied together. Planning on single wire harnesses that have the male connections as off shoots.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yes, its a nice thick coat of powder (actually a two coat process), and its very scratch resistant. I don't have a lot of experience with paint and powders, but my limited experience has been that powders are much more scratch resistant....and the finish is pretty flawless. No paint drips...etc.
> I think we can do better than 50 wires zip tied together. Planning on single wire harnesses that have the male connections as off shoots.


Even better.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm actually more worried about the PowerAdjusts heating up too much. Have read in some threads about throttling of these when running several fans and undervolting them. Perhaps we could get Nate to make us a custom waterblock for the PowerAdjusts?


As you know, the heatsinks on the PA's are pretty beefy. I had my build wired for a fan directly cooling them.


----------



## cpachris

I've never been one for excessive hyperbole....but I may be close to creating the worlds most beautiful PSU.









Can't finish it yet because of some screws that are being copper plated right now...but check out this beauty:






Crimson powdercoat around the sides and white powdercoat on the top. Replaced the black San Ace fan with a BBBB fan. Copper plated stuff arrives on Wednesday, so I'll have some finished pics then...but imagine copper plated screws and fan grill, along with some custom vinyl stickers.

And there will be two of them! If youi're gonna have a window on the PSU side of the case...better make sure you have something nice to be seen.


----------



## barkinos98

that psu looks awesome chris.







customizing everything is so awesome i see


----------



## sortableturnip

Planning on putting a college logo on the side of that psu?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> that psu looks awesome chris.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> customizing everything is so awesome i see


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning on putting a college logo on the side of that psu?


There's only one....Oklahoma.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> There's only one....Oklahoma.


I'm talking to a friend from Oklahoma on skype right now. xD


----------



## 3930K

Great job.

Also, just remembered but why isnt this in mods?


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> There's only one....Oklahoma.


You mean Oklahoma State....


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> There's only one....Oklahoma.


Until the holidays come around and you add some green to make it an instant Santa box.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> I'm talking to a friend from Oklahoma on skype right now. xD


Clearly you have good taste in friends.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Great job.
> Also, just remembered but why isnt this in mods?


I always think of that forum as case mods...and I'm not really modding the case much. Feels like a better fit for this forum.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> You mean Oklahoma State....


Blasphemy!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Until the holidays come around and you add some green to make it an instant Santa box.


Perhaps swap out the window on the motherboard side for one laser etched with Christmas greetings. I did get an extra window.







I could have one for every season!


----------



## cpachris

Here are some shots of another CaseLabs accessory that arrived yesterday. Its the 120.3 radiator mount for the flex bay area. Because of my crimson, it actually was done in two-tone so that the inside of the case remained white.



Remove the outside grill and then screw in your fans




And because I had the Aquacomputer AMS Radiators powdercoated in the same powder that CaseLabs uses...it is a perfect match for the radiator mount.



And some pictures of the radiator mounted in the case





More to come!


----------



## theseekeroffun

Copper teaser...........................











I think I have more copper than you do!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Copper teaser...........................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have more copper than you do!


Are these for the new build?


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Are these for the new build?


It is a possibility. I just found three generation 1 of the Aquadrive's and stuff that I should have sold three years back!


----------



## Citra




----------



## nvidiaftw12

It's not as good when not a gif, but still :lachen: .


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> There's only one....Oklahoma.


That's what I meant









Get the Oklahoma logo and put that on both PSU's, since you'll be able to see both through the window








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here are some shots of another CaseLabs accessory that arrived yesterday. Its the 120.3 radiator mount for the flex bay area. Because of my crimson, it actually was done in two-tone so that the inside of the case remained white.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the outside grill and then screw in your fans
> 
> 
> And because I had the Aquacomputer AMS Radiators powdercoated in the same powder that CaseLabs uses...it is a perfect match for the radiator mount.
> 
> And some pictures of the radiator mounted in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More to come!


Hawt!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Copper teaser...........................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have more copper than you do!


Oh, those res are downright smexy! and they double as a rad too


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> That's what I meant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get the Oklahoma logo and put that on both PSU's, since you'll be able to see both through the window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hawt!
> Oh, those res are downright smexy! and they double as a rad too


Especially if mounted directly to the case with thermal tape underneath :-O Giant heat sink.


----------



## dolanda

ohh no I just reached the end of this awesome build...
know what to doo?
This build is epic though! the motherboard is just no words just







and the two 690 and the crazy SSD raid setup I can imagine the price of thing.
Can't wait to see the fnieshed product! subbin for sure


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Copper teaser...........................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have more copper than you do!


Those are $130 each?!?!?!


----------



## sortableturnip

Hey cpachris, I found you some new material for heatsinks


----------



## Quest99

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Those are $130 each?!?!?!






those are really nice, but I am thinking that they will tarnish over time and that is a major turn off.


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> those are really nice, but I am thinking that they will tarnish over time and that is a major turn off.


You can polish copper and then seal it with a clear coat it will look like yellow shiny gold or you don't have to polish it and just coat it.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> You can polish copper and then seal it with a clear coat it will look like yellow shiny gold or you don't have to polish it and just coat it.


So all I need is to coat it and the shine will last forever? Interesting. I need to find the product, I remembered asking a clerk at Home Depot and he was convinced that such product does not exist at HD and I should try at a cookware specialist.



Will look more into this.....I might have just have found my next color theme.


----------



## cpachris

Spent some time with my Lamptron FC8 controller that I plan to use to control some lighting. You may remember some of my tear down pictures from awhile back. You can see that post here, or here is a pic below of what it looked like together and torn down.





It was a pretty attractive piece of equipment already....but we can do better. Now you can probably guess what I'm doing to it already, but I had the faceplate powdercoated crimson, and the side brackets powdercoated white. Naturally.




But before I put it all together, I need to do something about the wiring. Black/yellow/red wires ARE NOT ALLOWED...and plus they really are too long. I want something short that I can run a custom power cord to. And...the white-ish molex connectors are the kind of see-through plastic and are ugly as all get out, so those need to be changed. So.....

First cut some wires for a custom power harness. I'm using white wires because I'm going to sleeve them white, and I don't want any color bleed-through.



Strip the ends:



Time to crimp some pins on the end. For the connections that will have double wires going into the same pin....this can be tricky. I've found that it helps me if I take some needlenose pliers and smash the ends together really hard before trying to crimp the pin on.





You'll have to cut some sleeve along the way because once you crimp a double wire pin, you won't be able to get anything back on there



And to help get the heatshrink over the double wire connections, I stretch it out some with the tips of some needle nose pliers before slipping it on.



Rinse and repeat for as many connections as you need. I just need three for this controller:




Now just grab your molex connectors and plug in the pins. I think it came out pretty nice. Much better than the wiring that came on this thing:




Here are some "studio" pictures of my Lamptron:





And some pictures of the Lamptron FC8 in the case:





The wiring project took quite awhile tonight....but I've got plenty more to show off tomorrow.


----------



## Quest99

Can't the Aquaero XT do all the things the Lamptron can do, but better?

Coming along nicely....when did you get so good at sleeving?







Looks OEM!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dolanda*
> 
> ohh no I just reached the end of this awesome build...
> know what to doo?
> This build is epic though! the motherboard is just no words just
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the two 690 and the crazy SSD raid setup I can imagine the price of thing.
> Can't wait to see the fnieshed product! subbin for sure


Welcome aboard dolanda!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Hey cpachris, I found you some new material for heatsinks


Does it come in crimson?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Can't the Aquaero XT do all the things the Lamptron can do, but better?
> Coming along nicely....when did you get so good at sleeving?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks OEM!


Thanks on the sleeving comment. I have fun with it.

If I wanted the lights to change based on temperature....I guess I could use the aquaero. But I kind of like the idea of being able to turn a dial to bring the lights on or dim them. Call me old-fashioned. Or just old. Plus...I'm running out of channels on my Aquaero setup....even with 12 poweradjusts. 50+ fans and probably 4 pumps....they chew through your available channels quickly.


----------



## The_chemist21

Hey Chris have you thought about Annealing your copper to give it that crimson red look then sealing it?

http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?/topic/1212-copper-patination/


----------



## Bloitz

16 SSDs? That's well above overkill TBH


----------



## barkinos98

i have a question, i couldnt see why but why is the lowest bay is at lowest and not under the controllers for a use? does the rad not fit if thats higher?


----------



## 3930K

Chris, I've always wonderr whatnthencpa in your name is for?


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Chris, I've always wonderr whatnthencpa in your name is for?


"C"ontrol "P"anel "Accessories"


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Hey Chris have you thought about Annealing your copper to give it that crimson red look then sealing it?
> http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?/topic/1212-copper-patination/


Interesting. I can honestly say I've never considered "red annealed copper".









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> 16 SSDs? That's well above overkill TBH


They should look nice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> i have a question, i couldnt see why but why is the lowest bay is at lowest and not under the controllers for a use? does the rad not fit if thats higher?


Well....nothing is in its final location. Just putting it in the box to help make decisions. The main reason I have it setup this way is I'm still thinking about doing a murdermod style "luminous panel" for the floor of the motherboard side, and if I do, I'll need that bottom bay space available. Might have a logo cut-out of that bottom 5.25 bay plate and have the light from the luminous panel illuminate the logo.

But the AMS rad does extend a little bit into the 5.25 slot immediately above or below where its placed. Only on one side.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Chris, I've always wonderr whatnthencpa in your name is for?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> "C"ontrol "P"anel "Accessories"


certified public accountant


----------



## Snyderman34

Read through every page of this last night. Incredible stuff! I'm scared to think of what all this cost..... keep on keepin on man!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Read through every page of this last night. Incredible stuff! *I'm scared to think of what all this cost*..... keep on keepin on man!


Nonsense, It's all for science.


----------



## sortableturnip

Very nice update! As always, your build quality is top notch!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> 16 SSDs? That's well above overkill TBH



Credit for pic goes to 3930k


----------



## cpachris

More of my new CaseLabs accessories. After I had initially purchased my TH10, the option for the XXL window door was made available. I picked up one for both the motherboard side and the PSU side.

This is the regular window:


And this is the XXL window:


I can see how some people might not like showing the extra space...because if you have a bunch of messy wiring there, it would just be distracting. But if you have some pretty equipment planned...it gives you a way to show off more of your build. I'm going to have the reservoir and AMS copper fin rad there...and the XXL window will show it off. I think I'll probably use the XXL on the motherboard side, but keep the regular window on the PSU side. On the PSU side, it shows a lot of the harddrive cages. Not ugly....but not particularly beautiful. After I get the sata data and power cabling done on that side, I'll take a look at it both ways and decide.


----------



## Electrocutor

I think most people usually dislike the XXL because they have 5.25" bay devices that would stick back a ways: blu-ray, hot-swap hdd cage, etc; and it looks tacky to have the side of a bunch of metal boxes right against the window. In your case, it makes perfect sense because you only have a couple 5.25" devices and they are above and below the visible window. One thing I notice is how small your reservoir looks in there: are you planning to center it vertically or mount it with the extra motherboard stand-offs?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> One thing I notice is how small your reservoir looks in there: are you planning to center it vertically or mount it with the extra motherboard stand-offs?


Yeah....it looks a little dinky. I actually had originally asked FrozenQ to do 400mm versions, and I changed my mind at the last second, and did the 250mm versions. Not sure if I regret that or not. It still may look acceptable once I finish everything though. I was planning on centering it vertically and if I do the lighted floor....everything raises up from the bottom an inch or so. The pump would also be decoupled in some way from the floor, so it would be even higher. I'm definitely not going to use the motherboard stand-offs, because it would create additional difficulty in sliding the tray out.

Plan B? .....get 400mm res's.


----------



## Webrider99

Subbed.


----------



## barkinos98

le XXL gets my vote. on a side note, pass on engineering be a CPA!!!! it seems helluva profitable


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Read through every page of this last night. Incredible stuff! I'm scared to think of what all this cost..... keep on keepin on man!


Welcome Snyderman! Takes an effort to get caught up from the beginning at this point. I hope you find it worth your time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Nonsense, It's all for science.


Science! and fun.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Very nice update! As always, your build quality is top notch!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Credit for pic goes to 3930k


Thanks sortableturnip! Care to explain your screen name?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Webrider99*
> 
> Subbed.


Love picking up new subs this far into the build. Thanks! Did you make it all the way through?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> le XXL gets my vote. on a side note, pass on engineering be a CPA!!!! it seems helluva profitable


It's like any job really. There are people who will do well with it, and people who won't.


----------



## cpachris

Here is another one of my custom pieces from CaseLabs. It's a revised bottom plate for the pedestal:



The normal bottom plate only has the finger holes in it. Like this:



My revised bottom plate has 4 fan holes cut. My airflow design is up from the bottom and out the top. I wanted to pull in as much fresh, cool air from the bottom as possible, so it required some fan options down there.




I'm happy with how it came out, and Jim has proved incredible to work with. I'm sure they can't go out and promise to make anything someone one wants in order to get a sale....but my experience has been that if you are already a CaseLabs customer...they will bend over backward to make you happy. I see a lot of custom requests in the forum, saying "if you do this I will buy". My recommendation would be to get one of their regular cases first and play with it for awhile. They are incredibly customizable in their standard form. THEN....if you have something that you would like them to do...they will keep you happy.

The only negative about my new bottom plate is.....NOW I HAVE TO BUY MORE FANS!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Spending over $1000 on fans and needing more isn't normal.

But on money it is.

Money

Not even once.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The only negative about my new bottom plate is.....NOW I HAVE TO BUY MORE FANS!


I don't think fans will help much. The ones you have installed pushing the air out will create underpressure and it'll suck air in from the bottom. At least that's what I think. You could test it out perhaps.


----------



## Truedeal

Maybe Chris can reach 3Dmark Hall of Fame? yes.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Maybe Chris can reach 3Dmark Hall of Fame? yes.


Your avatar seems to disagree.









That would be awesome if he does make the hall of fame though.


----------



## The_chemist21

Just buy 4 of these, make them red then seal them. They will make a great reservoirs for that XL window.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Just buy 4 of these, make them red then seal them. They will make a great reservoirs for that XL window.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The bad news, they no longer make those. It was a limited run and I had forgotten that I had them.
Click to expand...


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here is another one of my custom pieces from CaseLabs. It's a revised bottom plate for the pedestal:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The normal bottom plate only has the finger holes in it. Like this:
> 
> My revised bottom plate has 4 fan holes cut. My airflow design is up from the bottom and out the top. I wanted to pull in as much fresh, cool air from the bottom as possible, so it required some fan options down there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm happy with how it came out, and Jim has proved incredible to work with. I'm sure they can't go out and promise to make anything someone one wants in order to get a sale....but my experience has been that if you are already a CaseLabs customer...they will bend over backward to make you happy. I see a lot of custom requests in the forum, saying "if you do this I will buy". My recommendation would be to get one of their regular cases first and play with it for awhile. They are incredibly customizable in their standard form. THEN....if you have something that you would like them to do...they will keep you happy.
> The only negative about my new bottom plate is.....NOW I HAVE TO BUY MORE FANS!


Are you going to have enough room to put your fan power connector?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks sortableturnip! Care to explain your screen name?


Long story short, I signed up for XBL and someone already had my screen name. The first name they suggested was sortableturnip.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Welcome Snyderman! Takes an effort to get caught up from the beginning at this point. I hope you find it worth your time.


Very much so. Makes me wanna do some research and do up my Chaser MK-1... in VOLS ORANGE!


----------



## Electrocutor

I need a bottom plate like that for the SMH10, I wish it were a standard part that can be ordered. I'll have to dremel and drill my fan holes by hand.


----------



## Webrider99

Yup Read the majority of the post while I ate Lunch (It was a long lunch LOL ! ) Looking great so far Can't wait to see the final product in it's full glory !


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Webrider99*
> 
> Yup Read the majority of the post while I ate Lunch (It was a long lunch LOL ! ) Looking great so far Can't wait to see the final product in it's full glory !


Well I'm sure little ole bunchy the green lama enjoyed a good read while he was frolicking through the rich text fields of the "BBBB" thread.









Isn't this build log the best? I can honestly said it puts my computer to shame.


----------



## Quest99

400mm seems perfect for that XXL window. Maybe even 500mm if Alex is willing to custom make one.


----------



## 3930K

Sortable what was your previous screen name?


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> 400mm seems perfect for that XXL window. Maybe even 500mm if Alex is willing to custom make one.


400's are pretty much the minimum to help fill the case with an XL window. I tried for quite a while to find a GOOD way to connect two 250's together, to no avail. With a XXL window it will be a bit more difficult.



I ordered the XXL, so I will have some idea next week.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Are you going to have enough room to put your fan power connector?
> Long story short, I signed up for XBL and someone already had my screen name. The first name they suggested was sortableturnip.


If it goes in the pedestal still, I'll need a small bracket above the fans. This would get them some awesome airflow, because it would raise them up right inbetween the fans blowing crossways, and they would also have the fans underneath them blowing up. But...I'm considering placement in the main chamber. The more I thought about it, the less sense it made sense to put a lot of connections down in the pedestal. Won't be fun to unhook the pedestal from the main compartment every time I need to tinker with connections. Would be much easier from a maintenance standpoint to have the PowerAdjusts up top somewhere. Noodling some ideas now.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Very much so. Makes me wanna do some research and do up my Chaser MK-1... in VOLS ORANGE!


Great idea! but a horrible team.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I need a bottom plate like that for the SMH10, I wish it were a standard part that can be ordered. I'll have to dremel and drill my fan holes by hand.


I'll bet they show up as options in the store soon.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Webrider99*
> 
> Yup Read the majority of the post while I ate Lunch (It was a long lunch LOL ! ) Looking great so far Can't wait to see the final product in it's full glory !


Must have been a REAL long lunch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> 400mm seems perfect for that XXL window. Maybe even 500mm if Alex is willing to custom make one.


Hmmmmmmmmmmm..........

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> 400's are pretty much the minimum to help fill the case with an XL window. I tried for quite a while to find a GOOD way to connect two 250's together, to no avail. With a XXL window it will be a bit more difficult.
> I ordered the XXL, so I will have some idea next week.


The XXL is no taller than the normal window....just longer. So it shouldn't change how much vertical space you need to fill.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The XXL is no taller than the normal window....just longer. So it shouldn't change how much vertical space you need to fill.


You may have an issue..............


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Great idea! but a horrible team.


Hey now. Without us, you'd only have people that wanted to be paid for things. lol


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Sortable what was your previous screen name?


Crazy Larry was a screen name I used for quite a number of years. Got it from a business trip I was on at the time (one of my working buddies said I looked like the muppet character Crazy Harry but said Crazy Larry)


----------



## cpachris

My temporary CPU cooler came in today, so here are some pics of installation:



It's not really the right crimson color...but it looks pretty cool anyway, and like I said....this is just temporary until my water loop is finished.



I had to take off the heat sinks on the ram for the cooler to fit.





Put the CPU in for the first time.





A little thermal paste and some screws and its on.



And the fans just clip on real quick and easy.


Whole process took maybe 15 minutes...and that's only because I was watching TV. Super easy to do. It's definitely overkill for a cooler that I will only use for a couple of weeks, but this will give me a good chance to compare temperatures from a good air cooler, to my water loop. Lots of the comparisons are with crappy stock coolers...but this thing should do a decent job.

More later tonight!


----------



## Quest99

Massive! Really cool looking, but it hides half of your mobo.







Bring out the raystorm waterblock!


----------



## Stuuut

Can we see this stuff from in the case??
Anyways awesome thread been reading up on it for the last 2 days keep it going








And Noiseblocker power







awesome fans have 2 of them for myself, never knew they where so easy to disasseble. Just wanted to ask what did you use to paint the fans? Just spray cans or a spray gun?

Threads like these want me to start modding too..... but to worried i will screw up my case


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Can we see this stuff from in the case??
> Anyways awesome thread been reading up on it for the last 2 days keep it going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Noiseblocker power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> awesome fans have 2 of them for myself, never knew they where so easy to disasseble. Just wanted to ask what did you use to paint the fans? Just spray cans or a spray gun?
> Threads like these want me to start modding too..... but to worried i will screw up my case


He used spray cans....lots of very light layers on each side to prevent dripping.







PAGE 19 of this thread.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> My temporary CPU cooler came in today, so here are some pics of installation:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not really the right crimson color...but it looks pretty cool anyway, and like I said....this is just temporary until my water loop is finished.
> 
> I had to take off the heat sinks on the ram for the cooler to fit.
> 
> 
> Put the CPU in for the first time.
> 
> 
> A little thermal paste and some screws and its on.
> 
> And the fans just clip on real quick and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> Whole process took maybe 15 minutes...and that's only because I was watching TV. Super easy to do. It's definitely overkill for a cooler that I will only use for a couple of weeks, but this will give me a good chance to compare temperatures from a good air cooler, to my water loop. Lots of the comparisons are with crappy stock coolers...but this thing should do a decent job.
> More later tonight!


Man, that cooler looks like it could rip your socket right out!









Have you seen the new noiseblocker fans?


----------



## Quest99

Wow...do you have a link? I went on their website and havent found anything about these?

Are they suppose to stick out like that?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Have you seen the new noiseblocker fans?


Wow...do you have a link? I went on their website and havent found anything about these?
Are they suppose to stick out like that?[/quote]

oopsie









http://www.overclock.net/t/1289723/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-120mm-bionic-loop-propeller-fans


----------



## Quest99

Very nice indeed! Too bad we wont see Martin test these babies out!









I do like the look of them.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Man, that cooler looks like it could rip your socket right out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you seen the new noiseblocker fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Very nice indeed! Too bad we wont see Martin test these babies out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do like the look of them.


I hadn't seen those yet. Look pretty interesting. I wonder if they are going to position them above their Multiframe class, which is their top of the line right now. The website lists these as 'premium' which is what they have always called their Black Silent class. Makes me think they will still tout the multi-frames as their top of the line. I need to get one and audition it. I probably wouldn't replace anything until after the Noctua active noise fans come out and I can test those too.


----------



## cpachris

For those of you who haven't found Reglar's build log yet....this one looks like it is going to be a great one. I'm appreciating his photography already.


----------



## cpachris

Vertex 4 pictures!



Although its just a cardboard box...there is some dense foam surrounding the drive on all sides.



Here is what you get inside (I'm really wishing I had Reglar's Po right now)



I won't be using the mounting trays because I've already got some from Caselabs. But that is a nice touch. Also, when you pay $500+ for an SSD, you should always get a sticker!



A single Vertex 4 is very handsome....




...But 16 of them are downright beautiful.......



When I started putting them into my Caselabs drive bays, I decided to use my trusty Dynamo label maker and label what size drive is in that tray. Other than the sticker on the bottom, there is nothing on the drive to signifiy what size it is. Since I have a mix of 512 GB and 256 GB, I need an easy way to remember which is which. (I sent an email to the CEO of OCZ asking for a 513 GB drive so I could have some exclusivity....but he didn't answer.







)




Here they are in the brackets.......



And here are what the brackets look like in the case....




Going to have to work at keeping the wiring clean. 16 drives equals a lot of wires.

Still need to do some nice shots of the ARECA ARC 1882-ix Gen 3! Coming up soon!


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> For those of you who haven't found Reglar's build log yet....this one looks like it is going to be a great one. I'm appreciating his photography already.


Wow, thanks for the mention. I've been following your build for a while, and not ashamed to say I've been borrowing ideas from you


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Wow, thanks for the mention. I've been following your build for a while, and not ashamed to say I've been borrowing ideas from you


I'm flattered....but I've borrowed most of my ideas from others here on OCN....so I'll pass on the credit to a larger group. Axis, asg, Hyperlite, B-Negative, seekeroffun...their logs have all been very influential on my build. It's really a great community. People just keep seeing what others have done...and then upping the bar again. Can't even imagine what the top builds are going to look like in another year or so.

I'll be watching!


----------



## barkinos98

Is it speed?
Is it capacity?
Nope, BBBB.


----------



## Resonancez

Wow, this is amazing.....


----------



## Electrocutor

500 * 16 = $8000 ...

wow...
...

that's...

wow

I wish I had your budget.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> 500 * 16 = $8000 ...
> wow...
> ...
> that's...
> wow
> I wish I had your budget.


It's 10 512gb and 6 256gb, so prob around $6300...but still crazy!


----------



## asg

Looks Amazing....


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Going to have to work at keeping the wiring clean. 16 drives equals a lot of wires.
> Still need to do some nice shots of the ARECA ARC 1882-ix Gen 3! Coming up soon!


Could you cutom build the Sata cables or are they very sensitive to lenght variation?
An idea just crossed my mind to keep your wires clean: get a sas extension cables so you only have 4 of thos expansions showing on the motherboard side and you can keep the splitting as short as possible on the back side of the system.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Could you cutom build the Sata cables or are they very sensitive to lenght variation?
> An idea just crossed my mind to keep your wires clean: get a sas extension cables so you only have 4 of thos expansions showing on the motherboard side and you can keep the splitting as short as possible on the back side of the system.


I could do the sata power cables pretty easy, but I've never done sata data before. I'll cut open a wire and see what it looks like.

The Areca card came with four of the mini SAS to 4 Sata cables....so I won't have all the sata data cables showing on the motherboard side. Which is nice. But there will still be 3 of the sas to sata cables, plus 6 regular sata cables....so I still have some work to do to make it clean.

Anybody ever make their own custom sata data cables? May not be a need....because I know they come in a bunch of sizes and are cheap.


----------



## 3930K

No SSD domino?


----------



## Quest99

Amazing...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> No SSD domino?


I KNEW you were going to ask that. But no...16 wouldn't have made much of an impact after the 42 fans.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Amazing...


Thanks Quest!


----------



## theseekeroffun

You can get breakout cables long enough to route under the MB. They have a few on Amazon.


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> No SSD domino?


:lachen: So much this.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Vertex 4 pictures!


wuaaw!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> wuaaw!


stewie looks like he going to eat those SSDs there.









Oh lawdy, 16 SSDs...nothing I can say can describe the epicness of this thread anymore.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> stewie looks like he going to eat those SSDs there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh lawdy, 16 SSDs...nothing I can say can describe the epicness of this thread anymore.


Same here....I am speechless and staring at that picture in awe....

This should come with it.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> stewie looks like he going to eat those SSDs there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh lawdy, 16 SSDs...nothing I can say can describe the epicness of this thread anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same here....I am speechless and staring at that picture in awe....
> 
> This should come with it.
Click to expand...

Haha...


----------



## General121

Hey Chris,

This is going back a little. You mentioned something about most coolers, air coolers that is, shipping with stock crappy fans. I cant speak much for other brands, but I know all the CM Hyper (+, 212, evo ETC) stock fans are actually good. There has been some extensive testing in the Hyper 212+ club throughout the thread, and buying 2 of the highest rated and loved fans VS the 1 stock CM fan...The difference was 1 or 2C. Pretty impressive i'd say


----------



## sortableturnip

I wonder if those SSD's generate heat under load. Not too worried about the top ones, but the bottom ones look as though there is not much clearance.

Review here says they generate above average heat, but no temps

You might have to watercool them


----------



## sortableturnip

oops


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Hey Chris,
> This is going back a little. You mentioned something about most coolers, air coolers that is, shipping with stock crappy fans. I cant speak much for other brands, but I know all the CM Hyper (+, 212, evo ETC) stock fans are actually good. There has been some extensive testing in the Hyper 212+ club throughout the thread, and buying 2 of the highest rated and loved fans VS the 1 stock CM fan...The difference was 1 or 2C. Pretty impressive i'd say


Not sure what I said, but what I was trying to say was that the stock coolers were usually pretty crappy. Stock...like the ones that come with the CPU. Does the Hyper 212+ come stock with any processors?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I wonder if those SSD's generate heat under load. Not too worried about the top ones, but the bottom ones look as though there is not much clearance.
> Review here says they generate above average heat, but no temps
> You might have to watercool them


Now stop it. But maybe.........


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Now stop it. But maybe.........


At the very least, you should open one up and check temps while running a benchmark. For science!


----------



## Webrider99

ahahah ! Yes I'm sure he did enjoy it LOL ! And yes .. Umm I think it would take 8 times the power of my current rig to come close to matching the power of his... Pretty sad...


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Not sure what I said, but what I was trying to say was that the stock coolers were usually pretty crappy. Stock...like the ones that come with the CPU. Does the Hyper 212+ come stock with any processors?
> Now stop it. But maybe.........


Oh









I was skimming through and thought you were talking about the stock fans on aftermarket heatsinks haha. let me go find it again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Whole process took maybe 15 minutes...and that's only because I was watching TV. Super easy to do. It's definitely overkill for a cooler that I will only use for a couple of weeks, but this will give me a good chance to compare temperatures from a good air cooler, to my water loop. *Lots of the comparisons are with crappy stock coolers...but this thing should do a decent job.*
> More later tonight!


Is the bolded comment referring to the stock intel\AMD heatsink?

if so, my bad haha. The stock intel heat sinks are pretty bad. Annoying as heck to set up too.


----------



## cpachris

Hmmmmm......I can't upload any more pictures. Non-descript error message comes up in the OCN dialog window after the picture uploads. Does this on any picture I try. Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hmmmmm......I can't upload any more pictures. Non-descript error message comes up in the OCN dialog window after the picture uploads. Does this on any picture I try. Has anyone else experienced this?


Haven't tried that, but am getting an error when trying to give +rep, although when I refresh the page, the +rep is given

ok tried it and yes getting error


----------



## cpachris

OOoooooooo.......that is a great idea! Why doesn't everyone who reads this post click +rep and see if it works!


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> OOoooooooo.......that is a great idea! Why doesn't everyone who reads this post click +rep and see if it works!


I am seeing what you are trying to do here! Haha


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Errors huh?

Yup errors.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hmmmmm......I can't upload any more pictures. Non-descript error message comes up in the OCN dialog window after the picture uploads. Does this on any picture I try. Has anyone else experienced this?


Are you saying, OCN is preventing me from viewing my hardware pron?!?!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> OOoooooooo.......that is a great idea! Why doesn't everyone who reads this post click +rep and see if it works!


I will give you +rep for every item you're no longer using you send to me


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Are you saying, OCN is preventing me from viewing my hardware pron?!?!


Yep. And I actually had it completely finished, loop and all, and was trying to load pictures of it. But I've had to take it apart again. Oh well.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I will give you +rep for every item you're no longer using you send to me


How would you feel about 42 Noiseblocker case badges?


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> How would you feel about 42 Noiseblocker case badges?


hmm, while we are bribing here...How a few case badges and an EVGA T-Shirt.


----------



## vonalka

I just tried uploading a photo and it worked ok for me.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonalka*
> 
> I just tried uploading a photo and it worked ok for me.


That looks like the CM hyper 212+ or evo cooler mount ^.^


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Testing again:



Working.

So hardware pr0n now?


----------



## vonalka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> That looks like the CM hyper 212+ or evo cooler mount ^.^


I don't even remember which cooler it was - it was just the first pic I found in my folder, since deleted from the post as it wasn't relevant to this awesome build log


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonalka*
> 
> I just tried uploading a photo and it worked ok for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Testing again:
> 
> Working.
> 
> So hardware pr0n now?


Seems to be working again for me now to. Wonder what happened? Working on update now....


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> OOoooooooo.......that is a great idea! Why doesn't everyone who reads this post click +rep and see if it works!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Testing again:
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1003953/
> 
> Working.
> 
> So hardware pr0n now?


I c wat u did der.

ITS OVER 9000!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I c wat u did der.
> ITS OVER 9000!


That was just the first photo in my others folder.


----------



## 3930K

Why does it say Intel instead of amd then?


----------



## barkinos98

i wouldnt say no to the 1 case badge+evga t shirt


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yep. And I actually had it completely finished, loop and all, and was trying to load pictures of it. But I've had to take it apart again. Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How would you feel about 42 Noiseblocker case badges?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Testing again:
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1003953/
> 
> Working.
> 
> So hardware pr0n now?


----------



## xenomorph113

*jaw dropped*

truely an amazing build! cant wait to see it completed









those 16 SSD almost gave me an aneurysm, lol


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Why does it say Intel instead of amd then?


Because I edited it for news article that said something like 66 core intel processor or something.

Anyhow, enough ot.


----------



## cpachris

Want to show you something I've been tinkering with over the last few days. Not done...but viewable enough to get some thoughts from everyone.

The problem I'm trying to solve is how to do the wiring for the PowerAdjust2's. Wiring can quickly become messy with these, since they are so small and have so many connections on them. And since I believe I'll end up with 12 of these...I really need a good solution. I've looked through tons of build logs on this site and others, and haven't really found an example of something I think I would be happy with. Most people use the bay brackets that hold 3 of them right next to each other. Like this:



The bay brackets are pretty sharp....but they end up putting the PA2's real close together. Very tight. Running 3 separate molex connectors in would be real messy....so most people end up daisy chaining the molex connectors together. That helps a ton....but because they are so close together...I don't think I've seen anyone even try to sleeve the molex connector wires. Most leave them bare. Plus..when you are sleeving the double pin daisy chain connections, it is pretty tough to get them to look super clean.

Plus, you have the added issue of the orientation of the molex connector. Because the standard Aquacomputer bay bracket puts them side-to-side...like this.....



.....you end up having wiring going across the connector...and with double pin daisy chaining...that makes it even messier. What would help a lot is just having the PA2 rotated (like the one in the bottom in the picture below) so that the wires don't have to cross each other.



But alas....the standard bay bracket is too short to rotate the PA2's and still use it to mount them. Plus...I really don't like how close together they are on this bracket. Not only does it make the connections VERY tough to do cleanly....but it doesn't help the heat issue...and these things get hot.

So...I'm after a solution that will:

1) rotate the PA2 up and down instead of side to side
2) spread them out a little
3) mountable in a spot with some airflow
4) with enough space to sleeve the wiring between the molex connectors.
5) sturdy mounting....because some time it takes some force to undo a molex connection.

Couldn't find anything to buy....so I've been playing with making one. I'm on my third iteration, but want to show it to everyone and maybe you can generate some ideas on how to improve it:

First...got some aluminum strips at Lowe's. They sell them in 3 feet strips that are 2 inches wide...for about 8 bucks. It's about the same thickness as the CaseLabs case. Thought about using acrylic...but I think it would be more likely to crack or break with the force that sometimes is applied when removing molex connections.



Some quick work with the hacksaw leaves me with 3 pieces that are 12 inches each.



My table saw has an attachment that lets me drop my drill into a drill press and do some clean holes:



Drilled some holes with spacing for the PA2's.....



And then screwed them on......



Next up is the molex wiring. I took some white 18 awg wire and cut-off a long piece. I put on some sleeve/shrink all along the way, with gaps that have no sleeve.



I made two of these. I don't need four. I did some online research, and the PA2's don't use the 5 volt wire at all, so I can get away with only the 12 volt and the ground. That will help a ton.



I'm a little iffy about this next part...simply because I've never used these...but I took some low profile molex connectors, where you just push the wire down into a slot....and the metal sides are supposed to pierce the insulation and provide a connection.



Then you can snap a cap on top of them and they look real clean.





Then I just plugged them into the PA2's on the aluminum strip I made, and the wire loops up enough to clear the heatsinks and give enough room to still reach all the other connections.



For mounting....I'm thinking about putting them in the main compartment of the case...on the middle divider panel, right above the motherboard and below the fans. I would end up having to drill some holes...but not many. I would use some stand-offs or something like that, that would extend the aluminum panel an inch or so away from the middle wall.....because this would position it right under the fan so that it got some airflow.



So....this would work...and would solve all the issues I was trying to solve....but I would love to hear some ideas you guys may have. Obviously I would have to powdercoat the aluminum strip white if this is what I do. Has anyone ever used these low profile molex connectors before? Issues? Other ideas? I've decided not to keep these kinds of connections in the pedestal....because it would really be a chore to every unplug anything or check connections...if you have to remove your main case from the pedestal everytime.


----------



## Electrocutor

Could you bend the two ends of the aluminum bar and drill holes to mount it with the CaseLabs accessory bars? If you want to optimize air flow, you might push them in or out a ways so that the heat sink is directly under the edge of the fans.

I like the power sleeving and width, but what are you going to do with the sensors, 3-pin power, and aquabus? You could probably group some of them if you wanted.


----------



## Xraze

Dude, your build is incredible. Really amazing job, Subbed.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Could you bend the two ends of the aluminum bar and drill holes to mount it with the CaseLabs accessory bars? If you want to optimize air flow, you might push them in or out a ways so that the heat sink is directly under the edge of the fans.
> I like the power sleeving and width, but what are you going to do with the sensors, 3-pin power, and aquabus? You could probably group some of them if you wanted.


I like the idea of using the accessory bar and mounts, instead of drilling holes in the case. I may play around with that.

The aquabus is just a fan connector, so that one will be easy to sleeve all three wires together, and daisy chain the PA2's together. I'll have to finalize placement of sensors before I can think too much on if there is a way to group them inside a sleeve. The 3-pin outs will probably all need to be individual though.


----------



## sortableturnip

I can't help you there as I don't have any experience with those. What you've done, however, looks incredible! I really can't think of any other way to cleanly do that.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> *jaw dropped*
> truely an amazing build! cant wait to see it completed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those 16 SSD almost gave me an aneurysm, lol


Thanks xenomorph!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraze*
> 
> Dude, your build is incredible. Really amazing job, Subbed.


Much appreciated! Thanks Xraze.


----------



## sortableturnip

Is it possible to hide that bracket away inside either pedestal?


----------



## cpachris

Well, I don't want it in the bottom pedestal just because I don't want to have to take apart my case any time I needed to unplug a pump or a fan.

Now....it would fit on top of the case in-between the radiators....but it wouldn't be getting any airflow up there.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Could you bend the two ends of the aluminum bar and drill holes to mount it with the CaseLabs accessory bars? If you want to optimize air flow, you might push them in or out a ways so that the heat sink is directly under the edge of the fans.










Well the accessory bars don't work on the PSU side....if you have anything attached to the front of the case on that side (i have the fans and harddrives). Not enough clearance since they bend inward some. The accessory bars do still work on the motherboard side, because it is wider. But...if I could learn to tap threads, I guess I could even screw the plate right into the top frame of the case. All the accessory bars do is mimic the case frame. Anybody have any experience with tapping threads? Can't be that hard, right?


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm a little iffy about this next part...simply because I've never used these...but I took some low profile molex connectors, where you just push the wire down into a slot....and the metal sides are supposed to pierce the insulation and provide a connection.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic


Check the connections on those, I have heard of them not cutting cleanly through the cable before.

There used to be a very similar type of cable joining method called Scotch Clips which used the same method, they were notoriously unreliable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great, but you know what it needs?

Powder coating


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Check the connections on those, I have heard of them not cutting cleanly through the cable before.
> There used to be a very similar type of cable joining method called Scotch Clips which used the same method, they were notoriously unreliable.
> Looks great, but you know what it needs?
> Powder coating


I plugged a fan in each one of them....and the are alive. They work. I just don't know if its enough of a connection to handle something with more amperage, like a pump.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well the accessory bars don't work on the PSU side....if you have anything attached to the front of the case on that side (i have the fans and harddrives). Not enough clearance since they bend inward some. The accessory bars do still work on the motherboard side, because it is wider. But...if I could learn to tap threads, I guess I could even screw the plate right into the top frame of the case. All the accessory bars do is mimic the case frame. Anybody have any experience with tapping threads? Can't be that hard, right?


What about using really long screws for the front corner two radiator screws, then use something like 4 inch spacers/small diameter pvc between the rad and AP2 bar? You could even sleeve the long spacer if you wanted.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I plugged a fan in each one of them....and the are alive. They work. I just don't know if its enough of a connection to handle something with more amperage, like a pump.


In the case of a pump, I doubt it, but great effort on your part.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> What about using really long screws for the front corner two radiator screws, then use something like 4 inch spacers/small diameter pvc between the rad and AP2 bar? You could even sleeve the long spacer if you wanted.


I may not be following this one. Are you talking about the AMS mounted in the front of the case, or the 480 on top? The AMS 360 top screws are still down at motherboard level, and would be in the way pump/res. Although I guess it could be mounted almost directly on the AMS rad. If you're talking about the 480 rad on top....I'm having a hard time visualizing it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> In the case of a pump, I doubt it, but great effort on your part.


Guess I just need to try it, huh? Could be a fun video.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I may not be following this one. Are you talking about the AMS mounted in the front of the case, or the 480 on top? The AMS 360 top screws are still down at motherboard level, and would be in the way pump/res. Although I guess it could be mounted almost directly on the AMS rad. If you're talking about the 480 rad on top....I'm having a hard time visualizing it.
> Guess I just need to try it, huh? Could be a fun video.


I'll get the fire extinguisher ready


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I may not be following this one. Are you talking about the AMS mounted in the front of the case, or the 480 on top? The AMS 360 top screws are still down at motherboard level, and would be in the way pump/res. Although I guess it could be mounted almost directly on the AMS rad. If you're talking about the 480 rad on top....I'm having a hard time visualizing it.
> Guess I just need to try it, huh? Could be a fun video.


The top...

Code:



Code:


.--------.
|        |<- top rad
'--------'
 |      |
 |      |
[::::::::] <- AP2s


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Want to show you something I've been tinkering with over the last few days. Not done...but viewable enough to get some thoughts from everyone.
> 
> {snip}
> 
> So....this would work...and would solve all the issues I was trying to solve....but I would love to hear some ideas you guys may have. Obviously I would have to powdercoat the aluminum strip white if this is what I do. Has anyone ever used these low profile molex connectors before? Issues? Other ideas? I've decided not to keep these kinds of connections in the pedestal....because it would really be a chore to every unplug anything or check connections...if you have to remove your main case from the pedestal everytime.


This build is looking fantastic. So the way you have the power cables hooked up on the aluminum strip it looks like it would interfere with convection cooling of the PA2, or not? I'm opting for the "native installation" of the Poweradjusts. You've probably seen this, but Phatboy69 put 6 PAs in a build and had it neatly wired (but not sleeved ***?). I'll do something similar when my MDPC-X order gets here (and if I get some time off).


----------



## braindeadmac

And FWIW, it seems like I'm constantly fiddling with my PA-2s...so my advice would be to not put them where they are hard to reach. Lots of 2, 3,4 and 5 pin connectors, all right next to each other and unlabelled....Really pretty amazing all the connections they managed to fit on these things. They could pass for a porcupine from the backside.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> The top...
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> .--------.
> |        |<- top rad
> '--------'
> |      |
> |      |
> [::::::::] <- AP2s


Got it. That might work well. They would be positioned upward instead of facing the outside of the case....which would make them a little more awkward to plug/unplug. But in reality...how often would I do that once I have it working, right? I'll think about it. It would let me get away from any drilling. You are pretty handy with those code snippet diagrams.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> This build is looking fantastic. So the way you have the power cables hooked up on the aluminum strip it looks like it would interfere with convection cooling of the PA2, or not? I'm opting for the "native installation" of the Poweradjusts. You've probably seen this, but Phatboy69 put 6 PAs in a build and had it neatly wired (but not sleeved ***?). I'll do something similar when my MDPC-X order gets here (and if I get some time off).


I don't think they would be interfering at all. Big high loop over the heatsink. Yes, I've seen Phatboy's log. He did an awesome job with getting it all in there...but I'm after something a little prettier on the inside.


----------



## asg

Looking great!!

I think I will need to re do mine


----------



## braindeadmac

LOL at "something a little prettier". Your build is really quite spectacular.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> -snip-
> 
> -snip-
> 
> -snip-


Your work is truly inspirational. I hope to be able to tackle such an epic build one day myself. I hope this whole "working for a living" thing pays off one day.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Check the connections on those, I have heard of them not cutting cleanly through the cable before.
> There used to be a very similar type of cable joining method called Scotch Clips which used the same method, they were notoriously unreliable.
> *Looks great, but you know what it needs?
> Powder coating*


This


----------



## vinnybear

Hi there,

regarding your question about the short molex connectors :
I personally dont like this type of connector. They are similar in concept to what is used in the car hifi world for making quick fitting jobs.

I dont like them because you are never sure if the wires are being cut or not in the process of pushing them thru and in the end its not a permanent connection like a solder would be.

Your build is awsome and you take great care to getting thing looking and functioning perfectly.









That type of connection just isnt.

I burnt a car amp once because of such a type of quick connector.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> In the case of a pump, I doubt it, but great effort on your part.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I'll get the fire extinguisher ready


I gave my dual pumps a try and they fired up just fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Your work is truly inspirational. I hope to be able to tackle such an epic build one day myself. I hope this whole "working for a living" thing pays off one day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This


Kind words. Much appreciated Mike!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinnybear*
> 
> Hi there,
> regarding your question about the short molex connectors :
> I personally dont like this type of connector. They are similar in concept to what is used in the car hifi world for making quick fitting jobs.
> I dont like them because you are never sure if the wires are being cut or not in the process of pushing them thru and in the end its not a permanent connection like a solder would be. Your build is awsome and you take great care to getting thing looking and functioning perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That type of connection just isnt. I burnt a car amp once because of such a type of quick connector.


What do you think about using some solder down inside the short molex connectors to secure the connection?


----------



## Craka

Been following this build from the start and it really has been a great read.
The attention to detail is first rate and the wow factor is off the scale.
Keep it coming Chris.


----------



## vinnybear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> What do you think about using some solder down inside the short molex connectors to secure the connection?


That would better for sure but my major concern with those things is you are forcing your cable thru a slit in a metal plate that will cut thru the sleeve and in some cases some of the wires as well.

In order to solder them in you will have to clear some of the sleeve away and then cover that up again. Not sure how good the end result would look then.

Why not use single bullets that you solder onto your cables since you are only using 2 per connector anyway ?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I gave my dual pumps a try and they fired up just fine.


How long did you run the pumps for?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinnybear*
> 
> That would better for sure but my major concern with those things is you are forcing your cable thru a slit in a metal plate that will cut thru the sleeve and in some cases some of the wires as well.
> In order to solder them in you will have to clear some of the sleeve away and then cover that up again. Not sure how good the end result would look then.
> Why not use single bullets that you solder onto your cables since you are only using 2 per connector anyway ?


Lol. I had to go google what a single bullet was.







Didn't find any examples that seemed like they might work with a molex conector? Do you have a link to one?

I think with an exacto knife I could remove insulation from the very top of the wire, and then get a drop of solder on top that touched the wire and metal plates. As long as it is just a small dot...it would fit underneath the molex connector cap and wouldn't show. I may play with trying this.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> How long did you run the pumps for?


Only about 3 minutes or so, because I was hand holding the inlet hose connected from my faucet sink to the pump inlet.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Only about 3 minutes or so, because I was hand holding the inlet hose connected from my faucet sink to the pump inlet.


Just checked online...the poweradjust 2 can handle up to 30 watts and the D5's use 24 watts, so as long as you don't hook up both pumps to one poweradjust 2 you should be good


----------



## vinnybear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Lol. I had to go google what a single bullet was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't find any examples that seemed like they might work with a molex conector? Do you have a link to one?
> I think with an exacto knife I could remove insulation from the very top of the wire, and then get a drop of solder on top that touched the wire and metal plates. As long as it is just a small dot...it would fit underneath the molex connector cap and wouldn't show. I may play with trying this.


you can get molex connectors for making your own cable:



of course in black

depending on how good you are with electronic soldering you could go another route which is to solder under the Poweradjust board some extentions and use some contact plates to make the connections, you would only need one of them plugged in to supply the whole row.
The plate would also act as a support then


some companies can even make a dual track board for you for only a few bucks.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinnybear*
> 
> you can get molex connectors for making your own cable:


I've made lots of molex connections before, but I don't follow how the "bullet" gets worked into a standard molex connector and pin. I've crimped two wires into the pins you show in the picture. But the messy part is the two wires, with sleeve, and heatshrink....leading to the opening on the molex connector. Two sleeves just don't fit down into the connector, and the heatshrink on the outside ends up looking sloppy since the sleeved wires going in different directions pulls it apart between them.


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've made lots of molex connections before, but I don't follow how the "bullet" gets worked into a standard molex connector and pin. I've crimped two wires into the pins you show in the picture. But the messy part is the two wires, with sleeve, and heatshrink....leading to the opening on the molex connector. Two sleeves just don't fit down into the connector, and the heatshrink on the outside ends up looking sloppy since the sleeved wires going in different directions pulls it apart between them.


Totally agree with you here, I would keep it just like you have it since it is the best setup to my knowledge. Keep up the awesome work, can we get more pictures please?


----------



## Big Elf

You can get 2 sleeved wires into the molex connector depending who made it; you just have to work at it. Some connectors have slightly larger openings than others which helps. I know both the Phobya and ModSmart connectors have the wider opening. You can always try it heatshrinkless but it works with heatshrink as well.

I know this is with paracord but it also works for MDPC-X sleeve as well. I find if going heatshrinkless then a tiny notch in the sleeve where it meets the pin helps the sleeving onto the pin by a couple of mm.



Edit: Just realised you're probably talking about the 'punch down' connectors. You could try superglue to hold the sleeve in place.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> You can get 2 sleeved wires into the molex connector depending who made it; you just have to work at it. Some connectors have slightly larger openings than others which helps. I know both the Phobya and ModSmart connectors have the wider opening. You can always try it heatshrinkless but it works with heatshrink as well.
> I know this is with paracord but it also works for MDPC-X sleeve as well. I find if going heatshrinkless then a tiny notch in the sleeve where it meets the pin helps the sleeving onto the pin by a couple of mm.
> 
> Edit: Just realised you're probably talking about the 'punch down' connectors. You could try superglue to hold the sleeve in place.


My molex connectors must be something other than Phobya or ModSmart.







There is no way that two 18 awg wires with MDPC sleeve and shrink are going into these connectors.

But your idea about the tiny notch in sleeve to slide it down further on the pin is interesting. Because the other issue I have when trying to sleeve a two wires crimped on to a single pin....is that the sleeve won't slide down far enough to even try shrinkless. If I could slide the sleeve down further...perhaps I wouldn't need shrink. And if I didn't need shrink...maybe they would fit inside the molex connector. The fear I have is the slit would start things unraveling.


----------



## Big Elf

It's worth looking for Phobya or ModSmart connectors as I know they both have wider openings and will take dual wires sleeved with MDPC-X with or without heatshrink. There's also another make that I haven't been able to track down that are also slightly longer. The notch only has to be tiny but when melted doesn't unravel. It just needs a bit of practice to get it right.

You don't need to notch it when using heatshrink though but have to persevere melting down the heatshrink and sleeve until it fits, if necessary sacrificing a bit of heatshrink to help with melting the sleeve and only fit the last piece when it's small enough to fit in the connector.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's worth looking for Phobya or ModSmart connectors as I know they both have wider openings and will take dual wires sleeved with MDPC-X with or without heatshrink. There's also another make that I haven't been able to track down that are also slightly longer. The notch only has to be tiny but when melted doesn't unravel. It just needs a bit of practice to get it right.
> You don't need to notch it when using heatshrink though but have to persevere melting down the heatshrink and sleeve until it fits, if necessary sacrificing a bit of heatshrink to help with melting the sleeve and only fit the last piece when it's small enough to fit in the connector.


I'll order a handful of Phobya and/or Modsmart....and check them out. Appreciate the tip.

But honestly...the push down connectors were so darn easy, and they look so clean....that unless I have some connection issues....I may stick with that route. I'm going to play with a drop of solder on each of the metal plates and see what happens.


----------



## Marcusk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll order a handful of Phobya and/or Modsmart....and check them out. Appreciate the tip.
> But honestly...the push down connectors were so darn easy, and they look so clean....that unless I have some connection issues....I may stick with that route. I'm going to play with a drop of solder on each of the metal plates and see what happens.


You really shouldn't have to worry about using those push down connectors, even powersupply manufacturers use them for their SATA cables 90% of the time. It will probably work great.


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll order a handful of Phobya and/or Modsmart....and check them out. Appreciate the tip.
> But honestly...the push down connectors were so darn easy, and they look so clean....that unless I have some connection issues....I may stick with that route. I'm going to play with a drop of solder on each of the metal plates and see what happens.


There is no need for solder, if you put it before hand than the wire will just push it off or if you try to put it on afterwards you would have to have stripped the shield for it to work and then how will you put the retaining top on it?. Just push the wire in and if you have a punch-down tool with open bit you will be fine ( it's the tip where it doesn't have a sharp edge to cut of the excess wire at the end but rather to just help it penetrate the shield better )



Edit: I wouldn't worry about the wire not having a good connection, 66 and 110 punchdown blocks have been doing their job for the last 50 years without a hitch, they must be doing something right.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcusk*
> 
> You really shouldn't have to worry about using those push down connectors, even powersupply manufacturers use them for their SATA cables 90% of the time. It will probably work great.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> There is no need for solder, if you put it before hand than the wire will just push it off or if you try to put it on afterwards you would have to have stripped the shield for it to work and then how will you put the retaining top on it?. Just push the wire in and if you have a punch-down tool with open bit you will be fine ( it's the tip where it doesn't have a sharp edge to cut of the excess wire at the end but rather to just help it penetrate the shield better )
> Edit: I wouldn't worry about the wire not having a good connection, 66 and 110 punchdown blocks have been doing their job for the last 50 years without a hitch, they must be doing something right.


Good points, both of you. Thanks. When I thought about it...even my PSU's came with some of these punch down connectors for the sata power cables. I'll give these a shot and report back any problems I run into.


----------



## The_chemist21

I recommend using solder when joining two wires in moving objects like cars / boats / etc since the punchdown can actually cut the wire if it has the ability to move back and forth ( just like you would be moving a wire between two sharp knives ). In a stationary setup you will have no problems and that penetrating connector linked earlier is not the greatest quality, i wouldn't compare them to the punchdowns you are using ( the quality of each product is clearly visible ).


----------



## Broxia

First of all, love your build








Second, i am also pretty sure that the punchdowns will work fine, the reason that the ones for cars etc. arent that great, is because they will most likely become a bit damp sometimes. And the bumping around as The_chemist21 said.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broxia*
> 
> First of all, love your build


Your first post. I'm honored. Thanks Broxia!


----------



## TPE-331

Happiness is - sitting out back on the deck in the beautiful 80 degree weather here in the Pacific Northwest with a ice tub full of extremely cold Heinekens and reading this incredible log.


----------



## linkdiablo

I just got got an idea for making you SSD build as clean as possible. I depends on wether the component actually exists but hear this out: instead of split wiring the SSD from the power supply and Areca, you could have a PCB that has a single power and SAS input splitting to four SATA power and data connections.


The orange SSD connections would have to be specifically spaced to match your setup and the red and yellow ports (SAS and Sata power respectively in no particular order) could be oriented sideways to clean up cables.


----------



## superericla

Needs more SSDs...


----------



## Electrocutor

Does Areca support the multi-lane cables like LSI?

http://store.lsi.com/store.cfm/Internal_Multi-Lane_Cables/


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I just got got an idea for making you SSD build as clean as possible. I depends on wether the component actually exists but hear this out: instead of split wiring the SSD from the power supply and Areca, you could have a PCB that has a single power and SAS input splitting to four SATA power and data connections. The orange SSD connections would have to be specifically spaced to match your setup and the red and yellow ports (SAS and Sata power respectively in no particular order) could be oriented sideways to clean up cables.


So kinda of like what is on the back of multi-lane enclouse Raid boxes? Neat idea....but I would have no idea where to inquire about having one made. You?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Needs more SSDs...


Agreed. Will be scanning used list and sales....Could always use a few more.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Does Areca support the multi-lane cables like LSI?
> http://store.lsi.com/store.cfm/Internal_Multi-Lane_Cables/


Yes, they do.


----------



## cpachris

PSU Update. I teased an unfinished picture of my powder coated PSU a couple of days ago, but now I'm done with them. And I'm going to do it. That's right. I'm going to do it. I'm going to lay claim to the title of "World's Most Beautiful PSU". I'll relinquish the title only upon picture proof.









You remember what I started with, right? This:



Customizations include:

1) Powder coat the sides and bottom crimson to match the outside of the case.
2) Powder coat the top matte white to match the inside of the case.
3) Replace SanAce fan with a Noiseblocker M12-S2 with painted frame/blades and MDPC-X sleeve
4) Custom vinyl stickers to replace stock stickers
5) Copper plating of screws and fan grill. It's a real copper finish...not paint. Sealed...so it won't start tarnishing immediately.

After all of that...here is the PSU that allows me to claim the title "Worlds Most Beautiful PSU"





The only thing better looking than one....is two:



Some more shots at different angle These are big pictures so click one for more detail:











Closeup to see the copper plated screws. I think they look phenomenal.


And as good as the PSU's look outside the case....the look even better inside:







And they show-off just perfect through the window of the case.



I'll have another update tonight. Now that I have the PSU's done...I think I should be able to try and get a POST tomorrow. Still air cooled stuff right now...but I need to see if anything arrived DOA before my RMA periods run out.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Rutger's colors would be better!

EDIT: I just noticed your pump location, I assume those pumps will be feeding the Rads above it?


----------



## Quest99

You mad man! I knew you were up to something when you are not present on OCN. Killer PSUs man.....like whoa.


----------



## braindeadmac

OK the power supplies just blew me away. Wow. Now if you powder coated the INSIDE of the PSUs, I'd be impressed. Keep up the good work.


----------



## TPE-331

What in incredible transformation of those PSU's.


----------



## The_chemist21

Now all you need to do is take everything out of the TH10 have it stripped in and Powdercoated UV White inside while keeping same colors overall.


----------



## sortableturnip

Love those PSU's! Was a little worried looking at the first couple of pics because it looked like the side with the connectors was a different color shade than the rest of the maroon panels, but once i was saw the pic of them inside the case, they match perfectly


----------



## Systemlord

Words just don't some up your build, it is looking like the best Case Labs build ever!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Rutger's colors would be better!
> EDIT: I just noticed your pump location, I assume those pumps will be feeding the Rads above it?


Are you a Scarlet Knight, Rocky? There was talk of an OU/Rutgers game for 2012, but it got scrapped.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> You mad man! I knew you were up to something when you are not present on OCN. Killer PSUs man.....like whoa.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> OK the power supplies just blew me away. Wow. Now if you powder coated the INSIDE of the PSUs, I'd be impressed. Keep up the good work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> What in incredible transformation of those PSU's.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Now all you need to do is take everything out of the TH10 have it stripped in and Powdercoated UV White inside while keeping same colors overall.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Love those PSU's! Was a little worried looking at the first couple of pics because it looked like the side with the connectors was a different color shade than the rest of the maroon panels, but once i was saw the pic of them inside the case, they match perfectly


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Words just don't some up your build, it is looking like the best Case Labs build ever!


Thanks a lot guys! I'm having a blast with this build, and you all have been very encouraging.


----------



## TPE-331

Hey Chris, why not have a couple of laser cut fan grills in the shape of football helmets? Paint them Crimson and put the OU logo on them. That would look pretty bad ass if you could make it happen.


----------



## Spotswood

^ What vendor did you use to create those stickers on the PSU?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Hey Chris, why not have a couple of laser cut fan grills in the shape of football helmets? Paint them Crimson and put the OU logo on them. That would look pretty bad ass if you could make it happen.


Love that idea. Since the CaseLabs case already has all the 'mesh' on front of the case....not sure if they would work well there. But....I'm thinking about a light box in the upper 3 bay areas of the PSU side...and I could get the football helmet cutout that the light comes through. Or something like that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spotswood*
> 
> ^ What vendor did you use to create those stickers on the PSU?


Made em' myself. Look back in this post and I walk through how I do it. It's pretty easy and also inexpensive.


----------



## Bloitz

You make me feel inadequate ...


----------



## TPE-331

What I meant to say was replace the current fan grills on the PSU's with laser cut football helmet shaped fan grills. Since you have the large window on the PSU side of the case, it would be straight up bad ass! Especially if you threw some LED's behind them to make them light up, possibly some blinking LED's.


----------



## cpachris

I showed you some of the copper plating I had done with the PSU shots yesterday, but I have a few more things I'm playing with.

The Aquacomputer flowmeters have that plate on the front that is easily removable, so I had one of them copper plated to see if I would like it. I previously had showed you what they looked like with the white powder coated plate. Also...playing with some of the little M3 bolts they use. I've got three possible combinations:

1) silver bolts on white plate
2) copper bolts on white plate
3) silver bolts on copper plate






I think I like the copper bolts on white plate...but I'll need to stare at it for awhile to decide.


----------



## Rbby258

go for the copper one it matches the rads


----------



## Citra

Definitely copper screws with white plate.

Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515a using Tapatalk 2


----------



## TPE-331

I vote for option #3.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Stock?


----------



## Quest99

Are these located near a window ? I love copper and I vote #3 with a twist.......add copper screws!


----------



## barkinos98

damn! i vote for copper w/ silver bolts


----------



## Blizlake

I'd love to see them inside the case around where they'll be located, but for now I'll have to vote for white with copper screws. Copper on copper might look good too...


----------



## theseekeroffun

White with silver


----------



## sortableturnip

copper with silver looks smexy


----------



## braindeadmac

For your case, I think white with white screws is more consistent with the theme....although the copper with silver or copper/copper would be sexy....


----------



## The_chemist21

I vote Copper/Copper since only your rads show Copper atm.

Edit: by itself white with copper screws but if put in your build I would still go with Copper / Copper.


----------



## BlazinJoker

I'd go copper on copper


----------



## TheBadBull

I'd say copper screws on white plate.


----------



## carmas

copper on white, definitely.


----------



## Snyderman34

Copper on white. It's the sex


----------



## cpachris

Appreciate all the input guys. Copper screws on white plate, and copper screws on copper plate (which I didn't even show!) were the most popular choices. I'm still leaning towards copper screws on the white plate. I think it will complement what I'm probably going to do with other screws/bolts for the fans and case.

First of all, let me say that I much prefer the look of a socket head screw....over a phillips head screw. I think they just look more professional and upscale. So I'm going to replace all of the normal M4 screws that came with the radiators and fans, with some socket head screws. Pictures below....

Here is a closeup of what the radiators came with...



But I much prefer the look of a socket head cap in the picture below. It also kind of looks like what AquaComputer does with all of their equipment, although these are button head screws instead of flat tops. I found the flat tops stuck out further than I wanted them to, and I don't have a ton of clearance between the fans and the side pedestal covers.



It's tough to find a big selection of metric screws at Lowes or Home Depot. I had much better luck at Ace Hardware. But...you end up paying close to a buck a screw for the longer lengths (30mm), and with 50 fans needing 200+ screws....that would not have been very cost effective. Instead, I found these on Amazon in boxes of 100 for about $8 bucks.

I sent some to the copper plating service I'm using, and they came back looking like this:



Here are some shots of what they look like in the fans. First the normal phillips head screws....



Next the socket head screws.....



And finally the socket head screws after being copper plated....




In addition to some of the fan screws, I tested some thumbscrews, and I think they look awesome....



In this picture you can see that the thumbscrews help highlight some of the copper in the PSU's coming through the window, along with the AMS radiator.



I was out of commission for almost a full day, as I was trying to isolate a problem with new build by swapping parts in and out of my current build to see if they work. But I'm back up and running now. More on that later......


----------



## 3930K

Could you please show copper on copper please?


----------



## Quest99

Indeed the copper thumbsrews really stand out nicely. How much does it cost to copper plate screws?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

What lens did you use for the pics of the screws?


----------



## TPE-331

I love the look of those copper plated socket heads. They have that strong and sturdy aircraft rivet look.


----------



## Spotswood

+1 for using socket head cap screws.

They are the only types of bolts I use. If you use a "ballpoint" driver, you can fasten the screws at all kinds of odd angles.


----------



## theseekeroffun

I agree with the button heads, I have a lot them in my shop. I use them on my tanks and they are much easier to work with, not to mention, they look better. MY only critique is the copper, once you got the Copper Aqua Rad, you drifted a bit..........just my 2 cents.
I know first hand what can happen with CL builds and I am painfully taking a great deal of time planning the Insanity build. However, your attention to detail is outstanding.


----------



## sortableturnip

those copper thumb screws are hawt!


----------



## conntick

Holy sheet. The colors on those psu's are just so perfect. Absolutely love the contrast between copper/burgundy.


----------



## Electrocutor

Aquacomputer Flow Meter:
- Black casing painted crimson
- White back plate
- Copper screws

Case screw selection:
- Copper hex


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Aquacomputer Flow Meter:
> - Black casing painted crimson
> - White back plate
> - Copper screws
> Case screw selection:
> - Copper hex


This combination could work as well unless the black casing is plastic.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

May i ask you were you got those black socket head screw's from? The copper ones looks really great!


----------



## Artur

Good Morning!

I have been watching your build for some weeks now, admiring its perfection. Now that I am back from holidays and on my rig, now that I have been able to subscribe comfortably, I want to thank you for building this.

This mind-blowing rig has everyone's mouth watering, it is something truly great to see hardware that good, brought together with such attention to detail, carefully picking out the colour of every single screw, every single object in sight, and even out of sight. I want to thank you for giving us all, the pleasure of being able to sit down with this thread, and comfortably read over well-written posts, with overly-good photography skills involved. (The last 1000km road-trip of my holidays went by like a breeze, re-reading the full 14 pages of this thread). Nevertheless, not only is this build a source of excessive drooling on my keyboard, but also an excellent source of inspiration, this build has made me start planning my next mod, with careful colour-picking and attention to detail in mind.

I hope to have the time and resources someday, to fulfill a wish every member of this forum probably has, to build a rig as epic as yours.

Kind Regards,
Artur.

PS: (If someone finds any mistakes in my text, please point them out, English is not my primary language).


----------



## cpachris

Been busy working....just not much I can show for it. But here are some responses...and then I'll have an update on Raid card and pictures shortly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Could you please show copper on copper please?


I tried this one out...and it really didn't look as good. Didn't have enough contrast. I may go back and grab a picture soon to show it though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Indeed the copper thumbsrews really stand out nicely. How much does it cost to copper plate screws?


It depends on the screw size and what they have to do to prep it....but it could be as cheap as 50 cents, or as much as $2 bucks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> What lens did you use for the pics of the screws?


Those pics were my 60mm 2.8 macro Canon. Nice lens when you really need a closeup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> I love the look of those copper plated socket heads. They have that strong and sturdy aircraft rivet look.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spotswood*
> 
> +1 for using socket head cap screws.
> They are the only types of bolts I use. If you use a "ballpoint" driver, you can fasten the screws at all kinds of odd angles.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I agree with the button heads, I have a lot them in my shop. I use them on my tanks and they are much easier to work with, not to mention, they look better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> May i ask you were you got those black socket head screw's from? The copper ones looks really great!


I do like the socket head screws. Much nicer to look at and to work with. Here is a link to the ones I got on Amazon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> those copper thumb screws are hawt!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Holy sheet. The colors on those psu's are just so perfect. Absolutely love the contrast between copper/burgundy.


Thanks guys. I'm really lovin' the copper/crimson contrast also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Aquacomputer Flow Meter:
> - Black casing painted crimson
> - White back plate
> - Copper screws
> Case screw selection:
> - Copper hex


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> This combination could work as well unless the black casing is plastic.


Now that idea sounds pretty sweet. It would have to be paint...since the black casing is delrin, but that sounds like it would look pretty sharp. I may try one. The worst that could happen is I have to remove the paint with some paint remover.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artur*
> 
> Good Morning!
> I have been watching your build for some weeks now, admiring its perfection. Now that I am back from holidays and on my rig, now that I have been able to subscribe comfortably, I want to thank you for building this.
> This mind-blowing rig has everyone's mouth watering, it is something truly great to see hardware that good, brought together with such attention to detail, carefully picking out the colour of every single screw, every single object in sight, and even out of sight. I want to thank you for giving us all, the pleasure of being able to sit down with this thread, and comfortably read over well-written posts, with overly-good photography skills involved. (The last 1000km road-trip of my holidays went by like a breeze, re-reading the full 14 pages of this thread). Nevertheless, not only is this build a source of excessive drooling on my keyboard, but also an excellent source of inspiration, this build has made me start planning my next mod, with careful colour-picking and attention to detail in mind.
> I hope to have the time and resources someday, to fulfill a wish every member of this forum probably has, to build a rig as epic as yours.
> Kind Regards,
> Artur.
> PS: (If someone finds any mistakes in my text, please point them out, English is not my primary language).


Very kind words indeed. Thanks Artur!


----------



## cpachris

Well....I needed to get this build running so I could make sure and RMA anything that was DOA was sent back timely. So the wiring is still being worked on (and monopolizing my time right now), but I went ahead and got a POST and installed Windows. It lives! But I did have some issues.

Turns out one of my PSU's has an issue. At this point, I don't know whether it existed before all my mods or after....but a crimson/white/copper PSU clearly can't be RMA's....so I'm stuck with getting another. To be honest...the one that has an issue was the one where my soldering was pretty sloppy inside. In the OTHER PSU...I used butt splices and it works great. So I've ordered another PSU, and I can resuse all my mods on the casing/fan/bolts, etc.....but just be more careful about the insides of it this time. It should be here Wednesday.

Because there was only one working PSU....I couldn't get both GTX 690's running at the same time. Not only would I probably have been a little short on juice....there simply are not enough physical connections available to plug in the two MB 8-pins, and the four 690 8-pins that would have been required for everything. So....I have just one card in right now....but I've swapped both in and out to make sure they both work. Success there.

Motherboard booted up quick and the UEFI is wonderfully easy to work in and understand. I went ahead and upgraded the firmware to 1.2. Success there.

My 16 SSD's came with a mix of firmware 1.3, 1.4 and 1.5. I went ahead and upgraded the firmware on all of them to 1.5. Success there.

All 8 sticks of memory were recognized....although they defaulted to a lower frequency. Need to look at that one later. But...I have 64 GB of memory that is recognized and working.

I connected all 16 SSD's. I put 2x on the X79 chipset in Raid 0 for the OS. I put 4x on the LSI chip in Raid 0. And I put the remaining 10x on the Areca 1882ix raid card. I realized that I haven't done any studio pictures of the raid card yet...so here are some shots:

First...if you are after one of the brand new...and yet to even be announced, PCI-e 3.0 versions of this controller...here is what you need to look for. On the box, look for the sticker with the P/N number, and if the card is one of the new PCI-e. 3.0 versions....it will have a 30 in the P/N. I've circled where to look in the picture below. Areca hasn't changed the boxes yet or the manual....but every card that has this 30 on the sticker is the new official PCI-e 3.0 version. They will probably update their website, marketing literature, and boxes within the next month or so.



Here is everything that came in my box:



The SAS to 4x SATA breakout cables look like they won't be too difficult to sleeve. But I might try and find some shorter ones.




I got the optional battery backup picture below....and an upgraded 4GB memory cache (shown in card in pictures below):



Here are some pictures of just the card:













Here are some pictures of the card in the case. It should fit nicely in slot 3....if I use slots 1 and 5 for the SLI'd 690's.







Now there are a lot of options on this card...but I was anxious to test it out and do a quick bench. I don't have ANY experience with hardware raid. I've done software raid in my last few builds. This card has a lot more options that I'm used to....so I don't know for sure if I have it setup optimally. I put all 10 SSD's in a Raid 0 just to run some benchmarks, even though the ultimate array will be a raid 5. I still need to do some research to fully understand what each of these benchmarks really tell me....but needless to say the sequential read/write speed looks absolutely phenomenal:



I'll be poking around in the storage forum to try and understand each of these better...but if someone with some raid benchmark experience wants to take a crack at interpreting these....feel free.


----------



## 3930K

Could you send me the borked PSU? PWEASE? In the new AX850 case. I might be able to fix it lol.


----------



## sortableturnip

Now all you need is a waterblock for that raid card









And a heat spreader on the memory


----------



## Citra

What is that little plug on the sata side of the sas cable?
Also that heatsink needs some water cooling love.


----------



## YP5 Toronto

This build is epic... congrats. These are the builds that get noticed... you inspire me to redo mine.


----------



## CiBi

The copper still bothers me








could you build 3 other identical builds but with all the copper parts
1) nickel plated
2) painted white
3) painted crimson

and then let us vote on which one looks best and then you continue with that one...


----------



## Chokladkakan

As RAID controllers go that one is pretty darn sexy, though it might just be your marvellous photography.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

I would turn that heatsink sideways. Not only do you get no airflow, but I would be way afraid of it grounding out that 690.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> I would turn that heatsink sideways. Not only do you get no airflow, but I would be way afraid of it grounding out that 690.


This^

Or else put a piece of something electrically insulated between them: I toasted a motherboard by having one of the wires from a fan come in contact with the heat sink: after removing the board from the case, there were all sorts of scortch marks on the metal.

Quote:


> All 8 sticks of memory were recognized....although they defaulted to a lower frequency


I believe you answered your own question... quad channel motherboards start getting _extremely_ picky once you go past 4 dimms.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Could you send me the borked PSU? PWEASE? In the new AX850 case. I might be able to fix it lol.


It actually still will power-up fans and lights. Just not enough to make the motherboard post. Got something you want to trade?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chokladkakan*
> 
> As RAID controllers go that one is pretty darn sexy, though it might just be your marvellous photography.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Now all you need is a waterblock for that raid card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a heat spreader on the memory


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> What is that little plug on the sata side of the sas cable?
> Also that heatsink needs some water cooling love.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YP5 Toronto*
> 
> This build is epic... congrats. These are the builds that get noticed... you inspire me to redo mine.


Thanks! I think card is pretty sharp also. As far as water cooling goes...I'm definitely going to explore it with Nate. He should be back in town next week I think, and we can start planning the Asrock Extreme11 blocks in earnest...and I'll put a bug in his ear about the Areca card. I may also check if some of the generic GPU blocks might work on it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> The copper still bothers me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could you build 3 other identical builds but with all the copper parts
> 1) nickel plated
> 2) painted white
> 3) painted crimson
> and then let us vote on which one looks best and then you continue with that one...


If someone wants to fund the project...I'm game!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> I would turn that heatsink sideways. Not only do you get no airflow, but I would be way afraid of it grounding out that 690.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> This^
> Or else put a piece of something electrically insulated between them: I toasted a motherboard by having one of the wires from a fan come in contact with the heat sink: after removing the board from the case, there were all sorts of scortch marks on the metal.


The heatsink actually would touch the video card if I rotated it the other way. The way I have it positioned now....its wider than it is tall. So I can't turn it the other way. And yes...it is REAL close to the card. I need to take Electrocutor's advice and put down something to shield the card.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I believe you answered your own question... quad channel motherboards start getting _extremely_ picky once you go past 4 dimms.


I knew going into it that it would be tough to get much overclock out of them with all 8 slots filled, ....but I didn't think I would have to drop down below rated speeds. I need to play with them....and I'll report back.


----------



## 3930K

What do you want? Top Gear satnav?


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> What is that little plug on the sata side of the sas cable?


+1


----------



## 3930K

4PIB fan cable it seems... Or maybe floppy.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> What is that little plug on the sata side of the sas cable?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> +1


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 4PIB fan cable it seems... Or maybe floppy.


Sorry....missed that part of the comment by going to quick. Areca calls it the SGPIO (Serial General Purpose Input/Output) bus. It's used on a lot of backplanes for LED management and for sensing drives. I won't be using it....so I'll either snip it short...or hide it in sleeve.


----------



## Quest99

Hardware raid setup is plug and play with the Areca card and LSI chip?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Hardware raid setup is plug and play with the Areca card and LSI chip?


It's pretty darn simple with the LSI chip. Asrock CD comes with the windows management program that allows you create volumes from any of the physical drives plugged into the ports connected to that chip. Not a lot of options on setting it up....but that is probably a positive for most people.

The ARECA card is much more involved. The card has its own BIOS that you can access during the boot sequence of your motherboard. Once you are there...the screens look a lot like motherboard BIOS screens did before UEFI came along. It is simple to navigate and easy to setup a quick and simple raid volume.....but there are a ton of features that I need to read up on before I'll feel like I really have my arms around the features of this card. Very feature rich.


----------



## TPE-331

Right on Chris, nice to see that you are starting to bring this bad boy to life.







Sorry to hear about your PSU.







It's a risk and things like that can happen. I just sent my new AX1200i off to get powdercoated, my fingers are crossed big time.







I had my AX1200 powdercoated about a year ago and she's still purring like a kitty.







Keep up the good work man, this build is incredible.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Right on Chris, nice to see that you are starting to bring this bad boy to life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear about your PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a risk and things like that can happen. I just sent my new AX1200i off to get powdercoated, my fingers are crossed big time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had my AX1200 powdercoated about a year ago and she's still purring like a kitty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work man, this build is incredible.


Oooooooo.....will want to see pictures of that 1200i. I've got my eye on that line of PSU's for next upgrade. And I really want to know what you think of the whole Corsair Link package. I'm intrigued.


----------



## TPE-331

For sure man, for sure. I will post up some pics when the AX1200i is done. Here are couple of pics of the AX1200 that powers my T10 rig. The 1200i is going to be coated white as well. I plan to use both in my T10, I'm just waiting for the 700 series Nvidia cards to be released.

I know that it's hard to, but disregard the cable mess.







I am going to have Martin over at Psychosleeve shorten the lengths of the cables. I should of had him do that when he sleeved them for me the first time.











Notice the partition I made to hide the mess.


----------



## Shtomper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Real? Yes.
> Proper? Not by a long shot.
> Damn I'd love to get a decent macro lens for my D90, I currently have the 18-105mm one that came with it (pretty bad) and a 70-300mm one which is actually decent, I use it mainly for floorball photos with a unipod. But it's either camera or computer, no money to get good kit for both...


I got a d3x, d90 and d4s, and yeh I got the 105mm macro f 2.5 my fave lens along with my 17-85mm.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> The 1200i is going to be coated white as well. I plan to use both in my T10, I'm just waiting for the 700 series Nvidia cards to be released.
> 
> I know that it's hard to, but disregard the cable mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to have Martin over at Psychosleeve shorten the lengths of the cables. I should of had him do that when he sleeved them for me the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the partition I made to hide the mess.


Can't tell if that is the gloss white or the matte white from CaseLabs. If matte white...the exact powder they use is Cardinal C031-WH120 White Texture Semi-Gloss. Use it...and it is an exact match. From the pictures...your current PSU looks like a good match for the case already. What powder did you use?

Good sleeving shouldn't be hidden! Stretch that stuff out and be proud!


----------



## sortableturnip

Yeah, be proud of your rat's nest


----------



## Shtomper

Are you go to change the acrylic, I think a black light tinted acrylic looks so much better and more "premium" than plain acrylic? Tell me what you think.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shtomper*
> 
> Are you go to change the acrylic, I think a black light tinted acrylic looks so much better and more "premium" than plain acrylic? Tell me what you think.


My current plan was to keep the acrylic windows clear...but to do some laser etching on parts of it that won't hide any components. The main reason I wanted to keep it clear...is I'm working hard to make the inside as clean as possible....and I want to show it off. Post a picture of build with black light tinted acrylic...and let me see it.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I do like the socket head screws. Much nicer to look at and to work with. Here is a link to the ones I got on Amazon.


Thanks a lot for the link, very helpful.


----------



## cpachris

Bitspower update! I think I finally have this one in process now. Most of you will remember that a few months ago, there were some leaks of pictures of white Bitspower fittings....but they were not available yet. I began an email conversation with Bitspower asking them if they would go ahead and make some for me for this build...and in exchange, I would take a lot of pictures and show them off in this build log to help them with their launch. That generated some initial responses and interactions. But....dealing with Bitspower can be frustrating...and there would be times when I would get rapid fire responses...but the English was poor enough where I couldn't really interpret what they were saying. And then there would be times when they would go 2 or 3 weeks without responding. The white fittings ended up trickling into some online retailers....but the different types of pieces they made were EXTREMELY limited. No one carries even 1/2 the types of pieces I wanted for this build....and I don't want to have to mix and match fitting finishes.

About two weeks ago, I contacted Bundymania through FaceBook and asked if he had any tips on getting faster responses at Bitspower and/or talking to the right people to get this done. He said he also experienced large delays sometimes in getting responses....but that my best bet was to talk to Vincent...the CEO. He gave me the CEO's email address, and I started getting immediate responses. Vincent apologized for the response from the [email protected] email address and readily admitted they were severely understaffed. I sent him the list of fittings that I wanted to get in white...and of the 25+ different types of fittings I wanted....only about 5 or 6 of them were part of the existing white line they are doing. But...I gave him the link to this build log, promised lots of pictures.....AND HE AGREED TO MAKE THEM!

So....indirectly all the OCN members are responsible for helping me get these fittings...and I pass on my many thanks. I'm getting A LOT of these fittings, because I want to try some primarily fittings only connections between motherboard components, and between some of the radiators. Of the 25+ different types of fittings, they include compression fittings, 30 degree, 45 degree, 60 degree, 90 degree, Q blocks, Y blocks, extenders, adapters, multi-links, valves and d-plugs. More than 150+ pieces in total.

Vincent said all were specially made piece by piece, and one was even hand made. They will ship this week, and he promised to use the "faster" of the their two shipping methods, so....I hope to have them next week for pictures. Expect lots of them.


----------



## dietje1908

DAMN , cant wait


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Bitspower update! I think I finally have this one in process now. Most of you will remember that a few months ago, there were some leaks of pictures of white Bitspower fittings....but they were not available yet. I began an email conversation with Bitspower asking them if they would go ahead and make some for me for this build...and in exchange, I would take a lot of pictures and show them off in this build log to help them with their launch. That generated some initial responses and interactions. But....dealing with Bitspower can be frustrating...and there would be times when I would get rapid fire responses...but the English was poor enough where I couldn't really interpret what they were saying. And then there would be times when they would go 2 or 3 weeks without responding. The white fittings ended up trickling into some online retailers....but the different types of pieces they made were EXTREMELY limited. No one carries even 1/2 the types of pieces I wanted for this build....and I don't want to have to mix and match fitting finishes.
> 
> About two weeks ago, I contacted Bundymania through FaceBook and asked if he had any tips on getting faster responses at Bitspower and/or talking to the right people to get this done. He said he also experienced large delays sometimes in getting responses....but that my best bet was to talk to Vincent...the CEO. He gave me the CEO's email address, and I started getting immediate responses. Vincent apologized for the response from the [email protected] email address and readily admitted they were severely understaffed. I sent him the list of fittings that I wanted to get in white...and of the 25+ different types of fittings I wanted....only about 5 or 6 of them were part of the existing white line they are doing. But...I gave him the link to this build log, promised lots of pictures.....AND HE AGREED TO MAKE THEM!
> 
> So....indirectly all the OCN members are responsible for helping me get these fittings...and I pass on my many thanks. I'm getting A LOT of these fittings, because I want to try some primarily fittings only connections between motherboard components, and between some of the radiators. Of the 25+ different types of fittings, they include compression fittings, 30 degree, 45 degree, 60 degree, 90 degree, Q blocks, Y blocks, extenders, adapters, multi-links, valves and d-plugs. More than 150+ pieces in total.
> 
> Vincent said all were specially made piece by piece, and one was even hand made. They will ship this week, and he promised to use the "faster" of the their two shipping methods, so....I hope to have them next week for pictures. Expect lots of them.


Now that is good CS. When you know the right email


----------



## Quest99

Oh nice....will they ever make them for the public as well or was this a special order?

My future build may yet become reality.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Oh lawd... This is going to be great!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Oh nice....will they ever make them for the public as well or was this a special order?
> My future build may yet become reality.


Love that rendering.

I don't think any of the online retailers are ever going to offer all the pieces I would want in white. Heck...they don't even offer all the pieces I want in almost any finish, with the possible exception of black. I guess there are just too many options to try and carry them all. I can sympathize. But, I did get the feeling that Bitspower ultimately would have inventory stocked of most of their fittings options in white. And I also get the feeling that Bitspower will do special orders in any finish you want, as long as your order is decent size.


----------



## BlazinJoker

150+ fittings is indeed decent sized. Can't imagine how much they all cost at minimum of $10 a piece.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> 150+ fittings is indeed decent sized. Can't imagine how much they all cost at minimum of $10 a piece.


A lot of the smaller extenders and adapters and stop fittings were less than $5 bucks each. But the triple rotaries and y-blocks were $20 and the valves were $22....so it adds up quick. Everything with shipping was about $1,700. But I may have several of them for sale after I finish the build. I wanted to have plenty of options to play with while designing the loop.


----------



## vonalka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The heatsink actually would touch the video card if I rotated it the other way. The way I have it positioned now....its wider than it is tall. So I can't turn it the other way. And yes...it is REAL close to the card. I need to take Electrocutor's advice and put down something to shield the card.
> I knew going into it that it would be tough to get much overclock out of them with all 8 slots filled, ....but I didn't think I would have to drop down below rated speeds. I need to play with them....and I'll report back.


If you have much success OC'ing your 8 sticks of ram, can you let me know? I am planning to swap out my current ram with Kingston's new Hyper-X Predator soon as it is supposed to be better for OC'ing (and I am getting a awesome deal on it)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonalka*
> 
> If you have much success OC'ing your 8 sticks of ram, can you let me know? I am planning to swap out my current ram with Kingston's new Hyper-X Predator soon as it is supposed to be better for OC'ing (and I am getting a awesome deal on it)


I'll definitely let you know. The XMP shows up in the UEFI, so I'll start with loading that and seeing if its stable with no voltage increase. Then I'll see if I can get a little overclock out of it. For me...the amount of memory was more important than the fastest frequency.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> A lot of the smaller extenders and adapters and stop fittings were less than $5 bucks each. But the triple rotaries and y-blocks were $20 and the valves were $22....so it adds up quick. Everything with shipping was about $1,700. But I may have several of them for sale after I finish the build. I wanted to have plenty of options to play with while designing the loop.


Only $1,700...son I am so disappoint...









We need to come up with more ideas for you to spend money on:

your own thermal paste made with graphene
a silver CPU block
custom synthetic diamond ramsinks
use novec 7000 instead of water


----------



## 3930K

The easiest: MOAR V4s.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> Oh lawd... This is going to be great!


What he said.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> What do you want? Top Gear satnav?


that is mein lol


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> What do you want? Top Gear satnav?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that is mein lol
Click to expand...

YGPM









I'm not very happy either.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> YGPM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not very happy either.


i get your PM's, they come with the annoying red led of crapberry. unfortunately the price is going up high as hell.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> YGPM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not very happy either.
> 
> 
> 
> i get your PM's, they come with the annoying red led of crapberry. unfortunately the price is going up high as hell.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's a bid war. I'd lol at the people when it goes up higher than what a BNIB one costs (hella exoensive, £190)


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Yeah it's a bid war. I'd lol at the people when it goes up higher than what a BNIB one costs (hella exoensive, £190)


it went that far? damn.


----------



## jkovacs721

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Just buy 4 of these, make them red then seal them. They will make a great reservoirs for that XL window.


What are those?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Yeah it's a bid war. I'd lol at the people when it goes up higher than what a BNIB one costs (hella exoensive, £190)
> 
> 
> 
> it went that far? damn.
Click to expand...

No but if the war carries on at the pace it is it's gonna reach it lol.


----------



## Shtomper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> My current plan was to keep the acrylic windows clear...but to do some laser etching on parts of it that won't hide any components. The main reason I wanted to keep it clear...is I'm working hard to make the inside as clean as possible....and I want to show it off. Post a picture of build with black light tinted acrylic...and let me see it.









Just thought I would show you what your missing out on, on that sexy sexy ram. The reason ive only got a sheet is because everything for my build has arrived accept for the case, a**holes! But my acrylic for the side panel arrived, its perfect for me and I think would complement your case, the pictures don't do it justice, trust me. You should order a sheet and see what you think. After all it will make a big difference. These were just some quick pictures, didn't want to go into my studio to do some proper ones (seeing as were all competing here for the best pictures haha) by the way, for those interested, this was on a d4s with my beautiful 105mm f2.8 nikkor macro. The bokeh on my ram pictures - Sex!
Pretty build by the way, interesting color scheme, but I guess each to their own







good luck!

**** the acrylic, looks really bad, ill post more pictures on my case when it arrives, its late so light kind of bad at the mo, didn't set up my speed lights.


----------



## barkinos98

hey thats 3930K's comment!


----------



## 3930K

There's not 8GB sticks of the plats iirc.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> There's not 8GB sticks of the plats iirc.


http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-5v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m2a1866c9.html

Same speed as the GT's though:

http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/dominator/dominator-gt-with-dhx-pro-connector-1-5v-32gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmt32gx3m4x1866c9.html


----------



## Shtomper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> There's not 8GB sticks of the plats iirc.


http://www.corsair.com/en/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-5v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m2a1866c9.html

You were saying.


----------



## 3930K

I was saying rep+ to both of you!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jkovacs721*
> 
> What are those?


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/aqg1coed.html


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I was saying rep+ to both of you!


haha well there's faster rated memory out there anyway if you're willing to push the voltage. Otherwise you could do 2133 CL11 with 8 gb sticks still at 1.5v


----------



## Shtomper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I was saying rep+ to both of you!


Oh


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I was saying rep+ to both of you!
> 
> 
> 
> haha well there's faster rated memory out there anyway if you're willing to push the voltage. Otherwise you could do 2133 CL11 with 8 gb sticks still at 1.5v
Click to expand...

I'm thinking you may need 1.85V and DICE for that kind of memspeed with 8dimms.


----------



## sunn1e

just took 3 days to read through this, lunch at work, when i'm home and the girlfriend getting really annoyed that i wasn't paying attention to her wanting to go on holiday because i want to build something like this. Thanks Chris for the awesome read and pics.

Cant wait to see more pics and when i started reading there was 130 pages or something by the end 141. read every post and learnt so much

Thanks to everyone and keep up the good build.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Can't tell if that is the gloss white or the matte white from CaseLabs. If matte white...the exact powder they use is Cardinal C031-WH120 White Texture Semi-Gloss. Use it...and it is an exact match. From the pictures...your current PSU looks like a good match for the case already. What powder did you use?
> Good sleeving shouldn't be hidden! Stretch that stuff out and be proud!


It's Sky White, pretty much the same as White Gloss. I'm not 100% sure what the product number for the powder is, Alex over at FrozenQ did the powdercoating. I sent my 2 RX360's with the AX1200i to have them coated white as well. After seeing how your rads and PSU's turned out, I just had to do it!







Isn't it nice to have the cajones to void the warranties on this stuff.







I'm in the Marine Corps Reserves, I'd like to have my next case powdercoated in a "Desert Camo" theme.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Sorry....missed that part of the comment by going to quick. Areca calls it the SGPIO (Serial General Purpose Input/Output) bus. It's used on a lot of backplanes for LED management and for sensing drives. I won't be using it....so I'll either snip it short...or hide it in sleeve.


I see, thanks.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Bitspower update! I think I finally have this one in process now. Most of you will remember that a few months ago, there were some leaks of pictures of white Bitspower fittings....but they were not available yet. I began an email conversation with Bitspower asking them if they would go ahead and make some for me for this build...and in exchange, I would take a lot of pictures and show them off in this build log to help them with their launch. That generated some initial responses and interactions. But....dealing with Bitspower can be frustrating...and there would be times when I would get rapid fire responses...but the English was poor enough where I couldn't really interpret what they were saying. And then there would be times when they would go 2 or 3 weeks without responding. The white fittings ended up trickling into some online retailers....but the different types of pieces they made were EXTREMELY limited. No one carries even 1/2 the types of pieces I wanted for this build....and I don't want to have to mix and match fitting finishes.
> About two weeks ago, I contacted Bundymania through FaceBook and asked if he had any tips on getting faster responses at Bitspower and/or talking to the right people to get this done. He said he also experienced large delays sometimes in getting responses....but that my best bet was to talk to Vincent...the CEO. He gave me the CEO's email address, and I started getting immediate responses. Vincent apologized for the response from the [email protected] email address and readily admitted they were severely understaffed. I sent him the list of fittings that I wanted to get in white...and of the 25+ different types of fittings I wanted....only about 5 or 6 of them were part of the existing white line they are doing. But...I gave him the link to this build log, promised lots of pictures.....AND HE AGREED TO MAKE THEM!
> So....indirectly all the OCN members are responsible for helping me get these fittings...and I pass on my many thanks. I'm getting A LOT of these fittings, because I want to try some primarily fittings only connections between motherboard components, and between some of the radiators. Of the 25+ different types of fittings, they include compression fittings, 30 degree, 45 degree, 60 degree, 90 degree, Q blocks, Y blocks, extenders, adapters, multi-links, valves and d-plugs. More than 150+ pieces in total.
> Vincent said all were specially made piece by piece, and one was even hand made. They will ship this week, and he promised to use the "faster" of the their two shipping methods, so....I hope to have them next week for pictures. Expect lots of them.


Now that is what I call getting Hooked up! I can't wait to see the pics of all those beauties!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Bitspower update!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I think I finally have this one in process now. Most of you will remember that a few months ago, there were some leaks of pictures of white Bitspower fittings....but they were not available yet. I began an email conversation with Bitspower asking them if they would go ahead and make some for me for this build...and in exchange, I would take a lot of pictures and show them off in this build log to help them with their launch. That generated some initial responses and interactions. But....dealing with Bitspower can be frustrating...and there would be times when I would get rapid fire responses...but the English was poor enough where I couldn't really interpret what they were saying. And then there would be times when they would go 2 or 3 weeks without responding. The white fittings ended up trickling into some online retailers....but the different types of pieces they made were EXTREMELY limited. No one carries even 1/2 the types of pieces I wanted for this build....and I don't want to have to mix and match fitting finishes.
> About two weeks ago, I contacted Bundymania through FaceBook and asked if he had any tips on getting faster responses at Bitspower and/or talking to the right people to get this done. He said he also experienced large delays sometimes in getting responses....but that my best bet was to talk to Vincent...the CEO. He gave me the CEO's email address, and I started getting immediate responses. Vincent apologized for the response from the [email protected] email address and readily admitted they were severely understaffed. I sent him the list of fittings that I wanted to get in white...and of the 25+ different types of fittings I wanted....only about 5 or 6 of them were part of the existing white line they are doing. But...I gave him the link to this build log, promised lots of pictures.....AND HE AGREED TO MAKE THEM!
> So....indirectly all the OCN members are responsible for helping me get these fittings...and I pass on my many thanks. I'm getting A LOT of these fittings, because I want to try some primarily fittings only connections between motherboard components, and between some of the radiators. Of the 25+ different types of fittings, they include compression fittings, 30 degree, 45 degree, 60 degree, 90 degree, Q blocks, Y blocks, extenders, adapters, multi-links, valves and d-plugs. More than 150+ pieces in total.
> Vincent said all were specially made piece by piece, and one was even hand made. They will ship this week, and he promised to use the "faster" of the their two shipping methods, so....I hope to have them next week for pictures. Expect lots of them.


That is fantastic news







I've really wanted the white compression fittings myself, maybe your build and large bulk purchase will get the ball rolling on their production.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> It's Sky White, pretty much the same as White Gloss. I'm not 100% sure what the product number for the powder is, Alex over at FrozenQ did the powdercoating. I sent my 2 RX360's with the AX1200i to have them coated white as well. After seeing how your rads and PSU's turned out, I just had to do it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't it nice to have the cajones to void the warranties on this stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the Marine Corps Reserves, I'd like to have my next case powdercoated in a "Desert Camo" theme.


Ooorah! Aren't you on like case #3 already? You going to go CaseLabs again for Desert Camo? Which one?

Have you seen the new MDPC-X color released last week called 'Commando Green'? Might fit your future build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Now that is what I call getting Hooked up! I can't wait to see the pics of all those beauties!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That is fantastic news
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've really wanted the white compression fittings myself, maybe your build and large bulk purchase will get the ball rolling on their production.


I'm pretty pumped also. If you only need compression fittings, FrozenCPU has some Bitspower white sizes available. They also have a small collection of other Bitspower white...but like I mentioned previously....not everything I needed.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Chris this build is really rockin now!! Love the copper plated bolts and thumbscrews. They add a really nice contrast. Just plain beautiful. I pm'd you some info about thread tapping. hope it helps.


----------



## The_chemist21

Hey I found these White( with led ) and Black Delrin ones and Nickel plated / brass reservoirs but still no copper editions. You could also grab the brass-nickel plated version then have the nickel stripped and the brass polished and sealed or have them copper plated and sealed. All of these reservoirs are in stock by the way.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14763/ex-res-335/Aquacomputer_G14_Aquatube_-_White_Delrin_34009.html?tl=g30c97#blank





http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14975/ex-res-341/Aquacomputer_G14_Aquatube_-_Black_Delrin_34012.html?tl=g30c97





http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15668/ex-res-357/Aquacomputer_G14_Aquatube_-_Nickel_Plated_Edition_34017.html?tl=g30c97


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Hey I found these White( with led ) and Black Delrin ones and Nickel plated / brass reservoirs but still no copper editions. You could also grab the brass-nickel plated version then have the nickel stripped and the brass polished and sealed or have them copper plated and sealed. All of these reservoirs are in stock by the way.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14763/ex-res-335/Aquacomputer_G14_Aquatube_-_White_Delrin_34009.html?tl=g30c97#blank
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14975/ex-res-341/Aquacomputer_G14_Aquatube_-_Black_Delrin_34012.html?tl=g30c97
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15668/ex-res-357/Aquacomputer_G14_Aquatube_-_Nickel_Plated_Edition_34017.html?tl=g30c97


I don't think they are making the copper version anymore...but I'm pretty happy with my current reservoir choices.




I need to see if these 250mm ones look ok in the box with everything. May need to bump it to 400mm depending on how they look.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ooorah! Aren't you on like case #3 already? You going to go CaseLabs again for Desert Camo? Which one?
> Have you seen the new MDPC-X color released last week called 'Commando Green'? Might fit your future build.
> I'm pretty pumped also. If you only need compression fittings, FrozenCPU has some Bitspower white sizes available. They also have a small collection of other Bitspower white...but like I mentioned previously....not everything I needed.


Next month when CaseLabs releases the Merlin series, that's what I'm going to buy to replace the wifey's current case. Her rig is dying for an upgrade. I was going to buy the SMH10 for myself but I looked at her rig the other day and realized it's time to update hers. I need quit being so selfish!







Once the Gemini series comes out, I plan on replacing my daughter's machine with that or maybe the SM5. By that time, there will be 4 CaseLabs cases in our home including my T10 and TH10 I already own.







Once I get the wifey and daughter updated, they should be all set.









That MDPC-X 'Commando Green' sounds awesome, Oorah! I need to take a look at it. I just bought a bunch of the Bitspower white compression fittings from FrozenCPU last week. I'm only using 1/2"x3/4" tubing in my T10, so the sizes they currently offer worked out great. I haven't installed them yet, I plan on doing that when my PSU and rads come back from powdercoat. I can take some up close pics later today when I get home from work. I'm pretty impressed with the quality.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Next month when CaseLabs releases the Merlin series, that's what I'm going to buy to replace the wifey's current case. Her rig is dying for an upgrade. I was going to buy the SMH10 for myself but I looked at her rig the other day and realized it's time to update hers. I need quit being so selfish!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the Gemini series comes out, I plan on replacing my daughter's machine with that or maybe the SM5. By that time, there will be 4 CaseLabs cases in our home including my T10 and TH10 I already own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wifey and daughter updated, they should be all set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That MDPC-X 'Commando Green' sounds awesome, Oorah! I need to take a look at it. I just bought a bunch of the Bitspower white compression fittings from FrozenCPU last week. I'm only using 1/2"x3/4" tubing in my T10, so the sizes they currently offer worked out great. I haven't installed them yet, I plan on doing that when my PSU and rads come back from powdercoat. I can take some up close pics later today when I get home from work. I'm pretty impressed with the quality.


dibs on any caselab cases you're replacing


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> That MDPC-X 'Commando Green' sounds awesome, Oorah! I need to take a look at it.
> 
> I just bought a bunch of the Bitspower white compression fittings from FrozenCPU last week. I'm only using 1/2"x3/4" tubing in my T10, so the sizes they currently offer worked out great. I haven't installed them yet, I plan on doing that when my PSU and rads come back from powdercoat. I can take some up close pics later today when I get home from work. I'm pretty impressed with the quality.


Quick pic of new Commando Green



It's a lighter shade. And please take some pictures of the fittings. Can't wait to get mine.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I'm thinking you may need 1.85V and DICE for that kind of memspeed with 8dimms.


You would just need a really good IMC. You shouldn't need any more memory voltage than the sticks are rated for, either.


----------



## sunn1e

I think the 250mm res's look awesome, you have a great eye for detail nothing has been over looked, im really liking the idea of the copper accents such as the screws and things.

Wish i could see this in person, also your pics look like i could reach out an touch it.

Subbed for sure


----------



## tuffarts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Hey I found these White( with led ) and Black Delrin ones and Nickel plated / brass reservoirs but still no copper editions. You could also grab the brass-nickel plated version then have the nickel stripped and the brass polished and sealed or have them copper plated and sealed. All of these reservoirs are in stock by the way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14763/ex-res-335/Aquacomputer_G14_Aquatube_-_White_Delrin_34009.html?tl=g30c97#blank
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14975/ex-res-341/Aquacomputer_G14_Aquatube_-_Black_Delrin_34012.html?tl=g30c97
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15668/ex-res-357/Aquacomputer_G14_Aquatube_-_Nickel_Plated_Edition_34017.html?tl=g30c97


They have THESE in Australia
but the shipping might be a bit much they weigh a lot, I have 2 of the nickel plated version


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffarts*
> 
> They have THESE in Australia
> but the shipping might be a bit much they weigh a lot, I have 2 of the nickel plated version


Product page says they are unavailable right now....but I'm really not looking for these reservoirs guys. I have the ones I'm going to use...and don't even really like those old Aquacomputer ones. Aquacomputer has a new line of reservoirs though that look more interesting.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Product page says they are unavailable right now....but I'm really not looking for these reservoirs guys. I have the ones I'm going to use...and don't even really like those old Aquacomputer ones. Aquacomputer has a new line of reservoirs though that look more interesting.


Sometimes I wonder if people actually read the thread before posting; that whole copper res thing just came from seekeroffun saying that he had more mass of copper than you; it had nothing to do with reservoirs.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Product page says they are unavailable right now....but I'm really not looking for these reservoirs guys. I have the ones I'm going to use...and don't even really like those old Aquacomputer ones. Aquacomputer has a new line of reservoirs though that look more interesting.


indeed.


----------



## bundymania

....subscribed....and greetings from my FB Page !









http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bundymania/467667709912606


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunn1e*
> 
> just took 3 days to read through this, lunch at work, when i'm home and the girlfriend getting really annoyed that i wasn't paying attention to her wanting to go on holiday because i want to build something like this. Thanks Chris for the awesome read and pics.
> Cant wait to see more pics and when i started reading there was 130 pages or something by the end 141. read every post and learnt so much
> Thanks to everyone and keep up the good build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunn1e*
> 
> I think the 250mm res's look awesome, you have a great eye for detail nothing has been over looked, im really liking the idea of the copper accents such as the screws and things.
> Wish i could see this in person, also your pics look like i could reach out an touch it.
> Subbed for sure


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> ....subscribed....and greetings from my FB Page !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bundymania/467667709912606


Love picking up new subs at this stage in the game, and I love that you found the past dialog interesting. It's been almost 3 months now since I started this...and I'm getting close to the finish line!

Bundy...it was a picture of the white fittings you posted that someone else put in this thread...that started my drive to get some. Appreciate the help in making the contact at Bitspower. FB page looking good!


----------



## cpachris

Did my big dye batch tonight for the crimson colored sleeving. I've got a few pictures to share, but if you want to really learn how to do it...check out the other link in my signature.

You need three pots:



In the big pot in back...get some water boiling and add some vinegar. In one of the small pots, you'll mix the dye carrier with some water, as shown below:



Once you have the small pot boiling...add it to the big pot. It will turn the whole big pot of water an opaque milky white.



In your other little pot, you mix the actual dyes with some water (I'm using a combination of scarlet and lilac).




Once you have it boiling....dump the small dye bowl into the big pot.



I'm dyeing a whole big bunch of white MDPC-X sleeving tonight...in hopes this will last me for the duration of this build. This is the first time I've done a dye bath with LOTS of sleeving in it. Everything to date has been small test batches trying to perfect the process. Little bit scary! Don't want to ruin this much sleeve!

So that I can easily lift it out of the pot to check on it...I've got the sleeve sitting on a small collander insert, and I've tied a length of wire through the handle so I can pull it up at any time to check on it.



Now.....lower the thing down into the big dye bath....




And then keep it simmering for as long as you need. Here is what it looked like after an hour and a half.



Here is the finished sleeve...after about 3.5 hours.


It's almost a perfect match for my powder coated OU crimson case!


Here are a couple of shots with some MDPC-X red next to my custom dyed batch. It will show you clearly why I needed to dye this instead of just using red.



The whole dyeing sleeve thing is actually pretty easy to do...after I suffered through lots of trials and tribulations learning how to do it properly. I didn't end up doing any heatshrink....because I've decided to use the shrinkless method.

Will begin sleeving in earnest now...so expect more updates related to sleeving over the next week or so.


----------



## BlazinJoker

When I saw the crimson before it looked good. But now it looks amazing on top of the case and all of the colors coming together. A job well done indeed


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Incredible job.


----------



## Citra

Brilliant idea. That sleeving came out great!


----------



## Reglar

Great job on matching the build colors so well!


----------



## CiBi

wuaaw, that will be some nice custom and unique sleeving


----------



## carmas

The sleeving looks great. I like how you take care of every small detail in this build and capture it with superb pictures.


----------



## Bloitz

So, how disappointed was the wife when she realized you weren't cooking anything for her?

Completely off-topic: How much is it for gasoline in America? 1.771 euro / liter for Super 95 here







, I usually drive on LPG so I was quite shocked ...


----------



## sortableturnip

I was a little worried when you had it on top of the case. It looked more like raspberry than crimson. Then you put it up against the red sleeving and it looked perfect! Must have been the lighting causing it to look a different shade.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> When I saw the crimson before it looked good. But now it looks amazing on top of the case and all of the colors coming together. A job well done indeed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Incredible job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Brilliant idea. That sleeving came out great!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Great job on matching the build colors so well!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> wuaaw, that will be some nice custom and unique sleeving


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> The sleeving looks great. I like how you take care of every small detail in this build and capture it with superb pictures.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I was a little worried when you had it on top of the case. It looked more like raspberry than crimson. Then you put it up against the red sleeving and it looked perfect! Must have been the lighting causing it to look a different shade.


Thanks everyone! I'm pleased as punch with how it came out and the color match. I've started to use it today and will post some pictures of early sleeving results soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> So, how disappointed was the wife when she realized you weren't cooking anything for her?
> Completely off-topic: How much is it for gasoline in America? 1.771 euro / liter for Super 95 here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I usually drive on LPG so I was quite shocked ...


Well...the girlfriend recognizes the 'smell' of the dyeing process at this point...and knew immediately this was not the start of some meal prep. The dyeing process creates a unique odor.....

Gas is about $3.75 per gallon right now. If I'm doing the math right, that translates into about 0.8 euro per liter. Pretty big difference. In our terms...you are paying more than $8 bucks per gallon. I'd have to sell my house.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Gas is about $3.75 per gallon right now. If I'm doing the math right, that translates into about 0.8 euro per liter. Pretty big difference. In our terms...you are paying more than $8 bucks per gallon. I'd have to sell my house.


Our tax systems and salaries are done differently though. As far as I know, the only place with very little tax of any kind and cheap gas is Alberta, Canada.


----------



## cpachris

I can watch the gas gauge needle on my SUV move while I'm driving it! At $8 bucks a gallon....I would probably need to live in my car. Drill baby.....drill!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I can watch the gas gauge needle on my SUV move while I'm driving it! At $8 bucks a gallon....I would probably need to live in my car. Drill baby.....drill!


That's why I'd get one of these ( http://www.teslamotors.com ) if I could afford it: especially when the all-wheel drive Model X becomes available.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> That's why I'd get one of these ( http://www.teslamotors.com ) if I could afford it: especially when the all-wheel drive Model X becomes available.


Yeah....I love the looks of those cars. Not yet really feasible for long road trips....but I guess you could always rent a different car for longer excursions. But for daily commutes to work...that little Roadster would be awesome.


----------



## cpachris

Here is my first attempt at doing some sleeving with my new crimson colored MDPC-X! Decided I would start small...and make a power cable harness for 8 of my Vertex 4's. In this picture, you can see what they would look like if I just used the standard 6 pin to sata power cable cords that come with the Corsair AX850. They really are not the bad. They string 4 on one cable. So...two different cables can cover the 8 of these that sit inside one of my CaseLabs SDD cages. The biggest problem is the space between each of the sata power connectors is MUCH longer that I need, so it creates a pretty big loop between each drive:



So instead of just sleeving these two standard cables and living with the large loops....lets create a custom sata power harness designed for how close together these SSD's are inside the CaseLabs cage. I got some white punch down sata power connectors and plugged them into the drives. Then I chose some white 18 awg wire and punched it down into the connectors while they were still plugged into the drives. That let me perfect the spacing on these since they are so close together. Clicked some caps on the end of each of the connectors...and this is what I had:



Then strip a little insulation from the end of each wire....



Then crimp some pins on to the end of each wire.....


Then cut some sleeve and threaded it on to each of the cables. I used some heatshrink at the Vertex 4 end of the cable....but went shrinkless on the PSU end of the cable. I used the shrinkless method that Lutro0 has a new video on. It was pretty easy and I like the results:




It made quite an improvement over the standard cables I started out with. Compare the picture below with the first picture in this post.



I made the length just long enough so I would be able to navigate around a reservoir or other component in front of the SDD cage. Few more shots inside the case....



I'm loving the looks of the sleeve...and I'm resolved to ensure that every cable in the box gets similar treatment....with custom lengths and sleeving. I've always thought that sleeving and cable management are really what set apart beautiful builds. I'll probably do another sata power harness for the other SSD cage next...and then I think I'll tackle the 8 pin connections. I have six of those to do.

I've ordered some shorter sata data cables to use before I get around to sleeving those.


----------



## 3930K

You should powder coat the V4's cases.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> You should powder coat the V4's cases.


I thought about that...and think it would look good. But they turned out to be the most expensive part of the build....and I'm not sure I want to give-up that nice new long warranty they have on them


----------



## 3930K

OCZ's CS is pretty useless.


----------



## sortableturnip

nice job! Did you check to see if it works, though?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> nice job! Did you check to see if it works, though?


You have no faith! But yes...all drives were still in working order.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> OCZ's CS is pretty useless.


Gotta disagree there, I had a PSU that I broke and I had a new one from OCZ in about a week, the CS was great.


----------



## 3930K

Huh. So maybe a sometimes good sometimes bad.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Enjoy sleeving the SATA breakout cable....


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Enjoy sleeving the SATA breakout cable....


I'm interested in seeing how he will do the SATA breakout cables as well. I will have two of those when my build is over and I'm curious as to how he is going to tackle those.

Should be interesting!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## TheHarvman313

I'm going to have to get some red and black MDPC sleeving and make custom length cables for my rig. Now I just need some money!!!


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'm interested in seeing how he will do the SATA breakout cables as well. I will have two of those when my build is over and I'm curious as to how he is going to tackle those.
> Should be interesting!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Yes, the breakout's are a challenge.....









However, I can tell you how to do them in a simple way.............


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Enjoy sleeving the SATA breakout cable....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'm interested in seeing how he will do the SATA breakout cables as well. I will have two of those when my build is over and I'm curious as to how he is going to tackle those.
> Should be interesting!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Yes, the breakout's are a challenge.....
> 
> However, I can tell you how to do them in a simple way.............


Hadn't thought much about how to do the sata breakouts yet. What is underneath that massive clot of heatshrink? Did you take off the connector? Did you have to re-crimp any pins?


----------



## cpachris

Did my first 8-pin. That took longer than I thought it would....but I'm happy with the result. Shrinkless sleeving is the way to go. This method makes it easier to keep everything look nice. No matter how hard you try...if you use heatshrink...some of the pieces are not going to line up. Don't have to worry about that with this method. And the sleeve is secured to the wire much better than with heatshrink. I'm sold. This one is a good 6 or 7 inches shorter than the stock cable also. Cleaner fit.









Five more 8-pin's to go. Then I'll start thinking about the 24-pin. Since I want to have the top PSU automatically start the bottom....I'm going to need to wire a couple of connections together. Plus...I'm going to have the AQ5 wired for a hard shut-off of power...and need to work that connection into here. There are also a few wires that need to be spliced or double pinned/crimped. Since I want the wires on the motherboard side to be clean and straight...I need to do all the work on the PSU side. I'll probably do the splices, 2nd PSU connection and AQ5 connection close to the PSU....into a 24pin connector on the PSU side. Then do an extension that is a straight 24pin to 24pin that wraps around to the motherboard side. That should keep that part looking as clean as possible.


----------



## Quest99

Very clean.... I approve! Keep it up


----------



## Artur

Lovely sleeving!!

By the way, would it be possible to paint the power connectors crimson on the SSDs? That cable looks far too white.


----------



## sortableturnip

What kind of connector is this?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> What kind of connector is this?


Good eyes! That's just my temporary spin on the old paperclip PSU starter trick. Instead of actually plugging in the 24pin cable and shorting there with a paperclip...I'm just connecting the PS_ON and a ground directly at the PSU. Didn't bother to make the cable shorter since its temporary.


----------



## Reglar

Great job on the sleeping.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Great job on the sleeping.


you live close enough to watch him sleep?


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Great job on the sleeping.


thats creepy dude


----------



## Reglar

That's what I get for replying on iPad and it's magically auto correction ability.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Great job on the sleeping.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*


That girl cracks me up! She tweeted the other day...."Tell me how much you love me on a scale from 9 to 10"


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Did my first 8-pin. That took longer than I thought it would....but I'm happy with the result. Shrinkless sleeving is the way to go. This method makes it easier to keep everything look nice. No matter how hard you try...if you use heatshrink...some of the pieces are not going to line up. Don't have to worry about that with this method. And the sleeve is secured to the wire much better than with heatshrink. I'm sold. This one is a good 6 or 7 inches shorter than the stock cable also. Cleaner fit.
> 
> 
> Five more 8-pin's to go. Then I'll start thinking about the 24-pin. Since I want to have the top PSU automatically start the bottom....I'm going to need to wire a couple of connections together. Plus...I'm going to have the AQ5 wired for a hard shut-off of power...and need to work that connection into here. There are also a few wires that need to be spliced or double pinned/crimped. Since I want the wires on the motherboard side to be clean and straight...I need to do all the work on the PSU side. I'll probably do the splices, 2nd PSU connection and AQ5 connection close to the PSU....into a 24pin connector on the PSU side. Then do an extension that is a straight 24pin to 24pin that wraps around to the motherboard side. That should keep that part looking as clean as possible.


I noticed on the bottom of your 8-pin CPU connector to right your white wire starts out the second wire in and connects on the other 8-pin CPU connector on the very edge, why not have it same on both ends? Reason I'm asking is because I'm sleeving my SeaSonic X-1250 and have notice some wires aren't going in where they came out in respect to both 8-pin connectors...?


----------



## Electrocutor

That was one of the things that Stren noticed on the new EVGA PSU: straight wires. You'd think someone would have thought it would be a good idea before now...


----------



## sunn1e

may be something to do with swapping cables over, as i know corsair does there individually braided cables, Or it could just be some companies like to be a pain in the a&&


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I noticed on the bottom of your 8-pin CPU connector to right your white wire starts out the second wire in and connects on the other 8-pin CPU connector on the very edge, why not have it same on both ends? Reason I'm asking is because I'm sleeving my SeaSonic X-1250 and have notice some wires aren't going in where they came out in respect to both 8-pin connectors...?


Systemlord.....Hope you are having fun sleeving the Seasonic....and you'll have to post some pictures once your done. I don't like that the wires don't all have straight pin to pin connections....but that is the way the AX850 is setup. I meticulously took apart each one of their connectors and mapped which wire on the PSU side went to which hole on the connector. Not only are there lots of wires that change pins on the trip from the PSU to the connector...there are plenty of double wires on one side leading to single wires on the other. I simply duplicated what they had done originally.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> That was one of the things that Stren noticed on the new EVGA PSU: straight wires. You'd think someone would have thought it would be a good idea before now...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunn1e*
> 
> may be something to do with swapping cables over, as i know corsair does there individually braided cables, Or it could just be some companies like to be a pain in the a&&


Yeah...EVGA did us a favor if all the pin connections are the same on both side. I'll have to check that out if I ever change PSU's.


----------



## cpachris

I've finished all 6 of the 8-pin connections. The PCI-e 8-pins are wired differently than the MB 8-pin connectors. Kind of a pain. On the PSU side, there is a 12 pin connector that splits into two separate 8-pin connectors (16 pins total) for the PCI-e side. So...you have to either crimp a double pin (which is what Corsair did), or splice the wires away from the PSU. I chose the latter, because I wanted the sleeve to meet the connectors cleanly. I would rather have some splice joins a few inches from the connector...than to have a mess right there at the connector. I want one wire to each hole at both connector ends.

So...I have to make 8 of these splices....which are a little more of a challenge to make look nice. I got better as I went along.....



Here is what the 12-pin PSU side of the connector looks like....




And here is what one of the 8-pin PCI-e side of the connector looks like....



And here are some shots in the case. The non-sleeved wires are slowly disappearing.....





I'll probably try some sort of cable sewing method on the cables showing on the MB side of the case once I'm done with everything.....so the pattern stays true. I won't try and continue it around to the PSU side...since the cables trade pin positions on their way to the PSU.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


*cpachris*, would you be kind enough to show me photos of how your soldering job looks like so have some idea how to progress my sleeving job? I'm pretty good at soldering, just need an idea how to make it clean looking like yours!

Also what's the secret to making heatshrinkless cables like yours, do you need special sleeving?


----------



## Electrocutor

Why couldn't you do something like this for split wire sleeving without heatshrink?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> *cpachris*, would you be kind enough to show me photos of how your soldering job looks like so have some idea how to progress my sleeving job? I'm pretty good at soldering, just need an idea how to make it clean looking like yours!
> Also what's the secret to making heatshrinkless cables like yours, do you need special sleeving?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> *cpachris*, would you be kind enough to show me photos of how your soldering job looks like so have some idea how to progress my sleeving job? I'm pretty good at soldering, just need an idea how to make it clean looking like yours!
> Also what's the secret to making heatshrinkless cables like yours, do you need special sleeving?


The video Citra linked to is what I watched to learn the technique. Basically, you push the sleeve up just over the first set of wings (the ones that secure the insulation), line up some some heatshrink with the edge of the sleeve...and then melt the heck out of it. Instead of fraying like the sleeve usually would if you heat it up too much....the heatshrink condenses the gummy mess down to a small diameter. You give it a pinch or two while its still hot...and then in seconds it cools and has a rock-hard grab on the pin.

Next time I'm splicing....I'll take some pictures and post them. In the meantime...check out this post if you haven't seen it. It's different than the way I splice...but probably better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Why couldn't you do something like this for split wire sleeving without heatshrink?


I may not be following the picture correctly....but if you cut out a spot in the middle of any plastic sleeving like that...it would start fraying like crazy. Also, how would you secure the spiced sleeve to the main sleeve?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I may not be following the picture correctly....but if you cut out a spot in the middle of any plastic sleeving like that...it would start fraying like crazy. Also, how would you secure the spiced sleeve to the main sleeve?


- not cut, simply push the weave open and go through the side; with paracord you'd have to cut and melt a hole
- look closer: the main sleeve has an opening for the split sleeve and the split sleeve has an opening for the main sleeve; it secures itself by having a part inside the main sleeve where your sleeving is actually double thick. The inner sleeve wouldn't be 100% taut unless you melt-pinched it, but it wouldn't have much room to wiggle because the outer sleeve would keep it compressed while the inner sleeve weave opening would act as an anchor (the gap could only be pushed so wide if you were tugging on the split sleeve).

- if you wanted to go overboard, you could shrink wrap the internal end of the split sleeve against the main wire since it would be hidden under the outer sleeve:


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The video Citra linked to is what I watched to learn the technique. Basically, you push the sleeve up just over the first set of wings (the ones that secure the insulation), line up some some heatshrink with the edge of the sleeve...and then melt the heck out of it. Instead of fraying like the sleeve usually would if you heat it up too much....the heatshrink condenses the gummy mess down to a small diameter. You give it a pinch or two while its still hot...and then in seconds it cools and has a rock-hard grab on the pin.
> Next time I'm splicing....I'll take some pictures and post them. In the meantime...check out this post if you haven't seen it. It's different than the way I splice...but probably better.
> I may not be following the picture correctly....but if you cut out a spot in the middle of any plastic sleeving like that...it would start fraying like crazy. Also, how would you secure the spiced sleeve to the main sleeve?


OMG!









I can't believe how easy it is to sleeve the heatshrinkless way and I'm so impressed I'm already done stripping all of my sleeving off and starting over, not that I've made much progress anyway! I watched Lutro0's video and was able to do it on my first try, it was such a pain in the you know what to get all of the heatshrink even in length once the shrink was covering the sleeving!

I'm looking forward to seeing how your solder your two wires together, in the meantime I'll do all of the single wires until your ready with photos of soldering. I wish I'd known this sooner, it's so easy and now I don't have to pull my hair out because the shrink lengths are different on some cables! I must have been sleeping under a rock!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Another method you can use to heat the ends of the sleeving is to touch it to a soldering iron (not the tip of it, but that metal area in the middle that you do not touch).



Also, if the need to make the opening on the sleeving a little bigger, use the point of a pencil just after you heat the sleeving up.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> - not cut, simply push the weave open and go through the side; with paracord you'd have to cut and melt a hole
> - look closer: the main sleeve has an opening for the split sleeve and the split sleeve has an opening for the main sleeve; it secures itself by having a part inside the main sleeve where your sleeving is actually double thick. The inner sleeve wouldn't be 100% taut unless you melt-pinched it, but it wouldn't have much room to wiggle because the outer sleeve would keep it compressed while the inner sleeve weave opening would act as an anchor (the gap could only be pushed so wide if you were tugging on the split sleeve).
> - if you wanted to go overboard, you could shrink wrap the internal end of the split sleeve against the main wire since it would be hidden under the outer sleeve:


I gave it a quick try...and with MDPC-X I don't see how you could ever insert sleeve into the pushed open weave of another sleeve. Just doesn't open that much.


----------



## cpachris

Got a few fittings in the mail last weekend......


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Sure that qualifies as a few? Looks like only a couple to me.


----------



## cpachris

...and no....I'm not going to do a domino video.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> ...and no....I'm not going to do a domino video.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Got a few fittings in the mail last weekend......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh look, another $1000 in parts came in...









I'm not jealous

ok I'm jealous


----------



## Quest99

Very nice fittings.....is it Matt white or glossy white?


----------



## struddles

I don't know why but I always seem to run into these epic build logs when they are about 100 pages deep and I have to say I never bother to go though them... until now. This is amazing man, truly a work of art and I think you should send some pictures to OU's computer science department. I personally think orange and blue represents a better color combination (I am an old boy of Florida, GO GATORS!) but all fanboism aside this is simply astounding. Looking to be the best build I have ever seen, keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming!



I had to


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Got a few fittings in the mail last weekend......


Oh my do those look sexy especially with the black emblems, you just can't beat Bitspower compression fittings!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Sure that qualifies as a few? Looks like only a couple to me.


A couple....a few....150+......whose really counting anyway.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Oh look, another $1000 in parts came in...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not jealous
> ok I'm jealous


Actually closer to $2,000. But don't be jealous.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Very nice fittings.....is it Matt white or glossy white?


I'd call it a semi-gloss on all the smooth parts...but its looks more matte on the textured parts. It's a nice contrast. The color is not quite as warm as the CaseLabs white...but it still looks good with it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *struddles*
> 
> I don't know why but I always seem to run into these epic build logs when they are about 100 pages deep and I have to say I never bother to go though them... until now. This is amazing man, truly a work of art and I think you should send some pictures to OU's computer science department. I personally think orange and blue represents a better color combination (I am an old boy of Florida, GO GATORS!) but all fanboism aside this is simply astounding. Looking to be the best build I have ever seen, keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming!
> 
> 
> 
> I had to


Thanks for the kind words! But bite me on the video.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Oh my do those look sexy especially with the black emblems, you just can't beat Bitspower compression fittings!


Bitspower just makes the best looking fittings. IMHO. As soon as I got them...they made me think of Axis' build. Axis!....You need these fittings!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

One day I hope to have enough funds to do a build half as good as this.


----------



## Shadow Concept

So, after saying how amazingly impressed I am at the attention to detail, I was wondering what exactly you had planned for this rediculous heat capacity you have here?

I mean running that many rads, even with low speed fans, you could easily cool 3 of your computer, so are you planning to utilize this capacity in any way (e.g. peltier elements)?

You could easily fit a small Phase Change in that case, but that wouldn't be very pretty, however a few peltier elements could pull your temps down with no extra noise or negative effects on appearance, and wouldn't make any difference to the water temps in the res after passing through your insane about of rads.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I gave it a quick try...and with MDPC-X I don't see how you could ever insert sleeve into the pushed open weave of another sleeve. Just doesn't open that much.


1. slide split sleeve into position


2. shrink split sleeve over main wire and melt-lock to metal tip on other side


3. repeat for all splits

4. add main wire sleeve, pushing metal tips with locked sleeve of splits out through the weave where needed (metal tip should pass through easily and melted/locked sleeving should be pulled along with it, forcing the opening large enough, like a wedge); you'll probably want to mark where you want to push out the splits with tape or something before-hand, so you know where it is when you have the main sleeve all bunched up.

[Edit]
When puting the main sleeve on at the end, it would be easiest to slide it on from bottom then push it past where it should be until all the metal pins for the splits are where they should be: then pop all of the pins through and slowly work them through the side at the same time, which will push the main sleeve back down to where it belongs.


----------



## Big Elf

The best splicing guide I've found is *Ontic's*, step 16 onwards. I use a bit more heatshrink than he does but it looks neat when finished.

When it comes to replacing the wires in the 8 pin EPS/CPU connector and the PCI-E connectors as long as you match ground to ground and 12v to 12V you'll be fine, you don't have to replicate how it was originally assembled.


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> A couple....a few....150+......whose really counting anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually closer to $2,000. But don't be jealous.
> I'd call it a semi-gloss on all the smooth parts...but its looks more matte on the textured parts. It's a nice contrast. The color is not quite as warm as the CaseLabs white...but it still looks good with it.
> Thanks for the kind words! But bite me on the video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower just makes the best looking fittings. IMHO. As soon as I got them...they made me think of Axis' build. Axis!....You need these fittings!


Agreed LOL but due to my MOBO and CPU's inability to handle the simple task of two 7970's and my little LOL raid card I must rethink my build (please see post in my log) but I guess if I'm going another $4000.00 I might as well go $5000.00 and switch to white fittings and black hose.LOL:thumb:


----------



## Egameman

Subbed !!!! I was standing when I started reading...and after seeing all those rads I needed to sit down...

You need to put up a warning to those of us with heart problems here


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Got a few fittings in the mail last weekend......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: :wheee:


----------



## nateman_doo

Just starting a rough CAD mock-up of the board:


Long way to go yet.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Just starting a rough CAD mock-up of the board:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long way to go yet.


Can't wait to see it! Are you starting a build log for it?


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Just starting a rough CAD mock-up of the board:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Long way to go yet.


My oh my......I cannot wait for the finished product.


----------



## nateman_doo

Still adding more components to the cad drawing. Makes the overall block easier to design when all the obstacles are present. I did get all the hole placement a few minutes ago. I put the whole board on my CNC table, and used the edges of the board as the reference edges. The block will line up perfectly with the holes on the board.

I also am working on 3 other projects at the same time. An SRX block, a GTX 460 2WIN, and a GTX690 block. I need a clone.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Got a few fittings in the mail last weekend......


I should invest in Bitspower


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> Subbed !!!! I was standing when I started reading...and after seeing all those rads I needed to sit down...
> You need to put up a warning to those of us with heart problems here


Ha! Thanks for the kind words, and welcome along for the ride!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Still adding more components to the cad drawing. Makes the overall block easier to design when all the obstacles are present. I did get all the hole placement a few minutes ago. I put the whole board on my CNC table, and used the edges of the board as the reference edges. The block will line up perfectly with the holes on the board.
> I also am working on 3 other projects at the same time. An SRX block, a GTX 460 2WIN, and a GTX690 block. I need a clone.


Hey Nate....depending on pricing...I have one other definite and two other maybe's on the AE11 blocks. Once we have a better idea of pricing, I can probably get firmer commitments. I may start another thread and link it in the Asrock owners thread...so that more people may see it. Ideally...how many would you like to include in a batch?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I should invest in Bitspower


Me too.







I'm actually taking pictures of each type that I got right now, and will probably have them up this evening. There are some cool parts.....


----------



## Lazy Bear

Subbed, this looks absolutely crazy! I'm super jelly of those white BItspower fittings, where did you buy those from? I need to get quite a few in their adonised red.


----------



## jagz

I tried to gather what I could from the index, but I'm curious as to any before and after temperatures (I know the 3960x is new) or atleast what temps are looking like now in various applications (gaming, folding?, prime, ect)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazy Bear*
> 
> Subbed, this looks absolutely crazy! I'm super jelly of those white BItspower fittings, where did you buy those from? I need to get quite a few in their adonised red.


Got them directly from Bitspower. It's really the only way you can do it if you have a bunch of different pieces you need...and you want them all in a color other than black or silver. The online retailers that carry some of the other colors....just don't carry a large selection of the pieces. So if you want things like y-blocks, q-blocks, valves, anti-cyclone adapters, multi-link fittings, etc......you have to go directly to Bitspower to get them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I tried to gather what I could from the index, but I'm curious as to any before and after temperatures (I know the 3960x is new) or atleast what temps are looking like now in various applications (gaming, folding?, prime, ect)


Since I don't have all my fans hooked up yet...I've resisted doing any temperature recording. I'm working on those right now. Once I've got them all done, I'm going to put a mild overclock on it and do a bunch of benchmarks on air, while recording temperatures. Then I'll put on the waterblocks and do all the same benches again. Then I'll push the overclock as much as I can.

Speaking of temperature recording....I did get a chance to hook up the Aquaero last night. I went ahead and flashed the firmware to the latest for AQ5 XT and all of the Poweradjusts. Hooked up a few individual fans and pointed them at some of the PA2's or the AQ5, and played with setting the controllers and creating information pages. I can say that I am thoroughly impressed so far. It even picks up software sensors from Aida64. It's going to be a blast to play with.

Now...I have to go finish all those Bitspower pictures. I'm having a blast with these things.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Gimme photos of the Bitspower!!










Please!


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Got them directly from Bitspower. It's really the only way you can do it if you have a bunch of different pieces you need...and you want them all in a color other than black or silver. The online retailers that carry some of the other colors....just don't carry a large selection of the pieces. So if you want things like y-blocks, q-blocks, valves, anti-cyclone adapters, multi-link fittings, etc......you have to go directly to Bitspower to get them.


Thank you! I wasn't sure if you could purchase fittings directly from them.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> Gimme photos of the Bitspower!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please!


I second this... and where is our paint-chipping dominoes video? We weren't listening when you said you wouldn't make one.


----------



## falcon2099

So I'm sitting here reading thru the thread on the couch on my laptop "ooo'ing" and "ahh'ing" every now and then when new pics are posted. Often times drooling and most of the time picking my jaw up off the floor. My GF serenely watching TV and peeking over now and then. Well I'm 120pgs into the thread and my GF says "That guy is insane." I just turn and say "Insane?? The guy is a GENIUS!!"

Needless to say +sub


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2099*
> 
> So I'm sitting here reading thru the thread on the couch on my laptop "ooo'ing" and "ahh'ing" every now and then when new pics are posted. Often times drooling and most of the time picking my jaw up off the floor. My GF serenely watching TV and peeking over now and then. Well I'm 120pgs into the thread and my GF says "That guy is insane." I just turn and say "Insane?? The guy is a GENIUS!!"
> Needless to say +sub


I think I have to second both of those statements considering from insanity is born Genius!!! LOL


----------



## txtrkandy

Cpachris!! MY life has gotten busy and I haven't been able to keep up with this as much as I wanted, but I hope its coming along well!


----------



## stren

Now if only koolance did their QDC's in white too and I'd be able to shift all my fittings to white.


----------



## cpachris

Bitspower White Pictures! Heavy picture update...all pictures are high resolution....so click on the ones you like for a bigger image.

Lets start with a group shot, and I'll walk you through what I got.



In columns, working from left to right, and from top to bottom, I've got the following:

24x - Rotary Compression
10x - 90 Degree Triple Rotary
6x - 60 Degree Triple Rotary
10x - 45 Degree Double Rotary
6x - 30 Degree Double Rotary
6x - 50mm extender
6x - 40mm extender
6x - 30mm extender
10x - 25mm extender
10x - 20mm extender
10x - 15mm extender
10x - 7.5mm extender
10x - Mini dual G1/4 extender
8x - Low Profile Stop Fitting v2
3x - Q Plus Block
1x - Q Plus Rotary Block
4x - Y Block with Triple Rotary
4x - Anti-cyclone
5x - Mini valve
3x - D Plug
1x - Sealing Plug
4x - 3/8 to 1/4 adapters
2x - Case Top Water Fill
6x - Multi-link Adapter
6x - Multi-link Adapter G1/4

171 pieces! But as much as that sounds like...I have a lot of things to connect. My guess is I'll end up with some extras that I didn't use...but also with a need for a few more of certain items. Need to start getting this loop done so I'll know what else I need to buy. Now...here is a look at each major grouping of item in closer detail.

*Rotary Compression Fittings.*
Not much to add here. Everyone has seen one of these before. But Bitspower sure makes them pretty.








*Angled Extenders*
For me...these are the fun pieces. In the first 3 pictures, from left to right, I've lined up the 90, 60, 45 and 30 degree extenders.




...and since the 90 and 60 degree fittings are triple rotary...you can point them just about any direction you want to...


...but there are lots of ways to get to 90 degrees. From top to bottom....90 degree fitting, 2x 45 degree fittings, and a 60 and 30 degree fitting together.



...and some more fun with angled extenders...







*Straight Extenders*
There are not as much fun as the angled extenders, but they are very functional for short straight runs. I like tubing for longer runs, but these for short runs. From left to right, 50mm, 40mm, 30mm, 25mm, 20mm, 15mm, 7.5mm



....and some more fun with straight extenders





*Dual G1/4 Adapters*
Almost all of my fittings have G1/4 on one end and IG1/4 on the other. So if I want to connect two components without tubing...I need these connectors.



*Q Blocks and Stop Fittings*
Electrocutor is feeding me some mad scientist ideas for a water loop that will contain multiple subloops and running certain components in parallel. Some Q blocks may come in handy....and they are pretty enough where I would probably try and work one is somewhere no matter what...





*Y Blocks*
Ahhhh....one of the prettiest of all the fittings I believe. Will help with creating the subloops.






*Mini Valves and D Plugs*
I'm going to use some of these to create my own quick disconnect. I love the idea of QDC's....but I absolutely hate the look and size of the Koolance ones.


So I'll take two of the mini valves...and put 1/2 of the D plug on one, and the other 1/2 on the other....



...like this....


...and then just push the two valves together! IMHO...it is much better looking than the big ol' Koolance QDC's...and I think even a little shorter. Now...I know it will probably shed a tad more water when you pull it apart...but not much more...and not enough to matter to me. I'll try it and let you know how it works.



*3/8 to 1/4 Adapters*
Long story short...I bought the wrong pump top. My Bitspower dual D5 pump top has 3/8 inch openings. These will allow me to use my fittings with it. And who knows....maybe a little larger opening at the pump will create some more pressure as it condenses down to 1/4. Maybe.











*Case Top Water Fill*
Fairly self explanatory....



*Multi-Link Fittings*
These are the fittings for use with the crystal link stuff. You just push the tubes into these. The ones on the left are dual link..and the ones on the right have G1/4 on one side.



*Sealing Plug*
You could use this with a drain tube...



*Anti-Cyclone Adapters*
You screw these on the inside of your reservoir to spread the direction of the water inflow so as not to create a whirlpool....



And these are just some more random family group pictures. Because...how many chances do you get to line up 171 fittings for the camera? Got to take advantage of that!











That was a fun diversion today....but I need to get back to wiring and sleeving. Still have a lot of work to do. I love taking these pictures...so let me know which one you liked best!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

^Whoa


----------



## Quest99

Thank you for taking the time to post all this.....photo editing+uploading + posting can be very time consuming.

Again....Bitspower fittings are killer.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

wow

Jeffinslaw


----------



## carmas

Those white fittings remind me of a stormtrooper army.
this build is looking better and better.


----------



## sortableturnip

You seem to be having just a bit too much fun with those fittings


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I second this... and where is our paint-chipping dominoes video? We weren't listening when you said you wouldn't make one.


50 lashes for not listening!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2099*
> 
> So I'm sitting here reading thru the thread on the couch on my laptop "ooo'ing" and "ahh'ing" every now and then when new pics are posted. Often times drooling and most of the time picking my jaw up off the floor. My GF serenely watching TV and peeking over now and then. Well I'm 120pgs into the thread and my GF says "That guy is insane." I just turn and say "Insane?? The guy is a GENIUS!!"
> Needless to say +sub


Clearly your girlfriend is extremely intelligent. Welcome along!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> I think I have to second both of those statements considering from insanity is born Genius!!! LOL


Does that make me Rocky's son?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtrkandy*
> 
> Cpachris!! MY life has gotten busy and I haven't been able to keep up with this as much as I wanted, but I hope its coming along well!


Glad to see you back! Coming along well. The last 3 months have been a blast for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Now if only koolance did their QDC's in white too and I'd be able to shift all my fittings to white.


I'll let you know how my valve>dplug>valve idea works. Might give you a reason to go white!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> ^Whoa


Dude....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to post all this.....photo editing+uploading + posting can be very time consuming.
> Again....Bitspower fittings are killer.


Takes time....but I have time right now. And the whole picture/edit process is really why I'm building this computer in the first place. I enjoy that part of it....and use my computer for most of the day. Need a nice one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow
> Jeffinslaw


Dude.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Those white fittings remind me of a stormtrooper army.
> this build is looking better and better.


I always sympathized with the Empire....all those pesky little rebels causing problems.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> You seem to be having just a bit too much fun with those fittings


For the record, no fittings were damaged while I had my fun.


----------



## M3T4LM4N222

Such a quality build! Amazing how much time and money you put into this magnificent beast!


----------



## netdevil

Since I have posted on first 10 pages, I have been silently watching until now!!!!! When this is done...its gonna be legendary lol


----------



## CiBi

Beautiful (both the picture and the fittings)


----------



## 3930K

Why do you want the anti-cyclone







Cyclones in reservoirs looks cool!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Why do you want the anti-cyclone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cyclones in reservoirs looks cool!


Agree 100%


----------



## PCModderMike

I am in love with these fittings







I do have some reservations about them. From my personal experience with the black fittings, it was kind of easy to scrap off the finish while putting the system together. Even with trying to be careful somehow a knick or scrap would appear, and it was a PIA. How tough does the finish on these feel? There were already some places where it looked like the white was knicked and missing.


Spoiler: Warning: Examples


----------



## Electrocutor

cpachris just invented fitting art...


----------



## TheBadBull

I remember someone making a scorpion from fittings.. It would be really awesome if you did something like that too. ^_^


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> I remember someone making a scorpion from fittings.. It would be really awesome if you did something like that too. ^_^


You mean this one?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














It's L3P's









All those white fittings... I don't think I've ever been more excited about an update full of fittings


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3T4LM4N222*
> 
> Such a quality build! Amazing how much time and money you put into this magnificent beast!


Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> Since I have posted on first 10 pages, I have been silently watching until now!!!!! When this is done...its gonna be legendary lol


I hope so!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> 
> Beautiful (both the picture and the fittings)


I liked that one a lot also. Thanks. Nils said I should have put a red eye on the dragon...and he's right. That would have made it pretty cool.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Why do you want the anti-cyclone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cyclones in reservoirs looks cool!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Agree 100%


Maybe so. I really just wanted to see what one of these looked like. Plus...it might be cool to see it spraying the water in several directions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I am in love with these fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have some reservations about them. From my personal experience with the black fittings, it was kind of easy to scrap off the finish while putting the system together. Even with trying to be careful somehow a knick or scrap would appear, and it was a PIA. How tough does the finish on these feel? There were already some places where it looked like the white was knicked and missing.


I think any fittings are going to get a little knicked up as you start using them. But the finish feels sturdy. We'll see how they hold up when I start putting everything together.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> cpachris just invented fitting art...


Paintings would probably be cheaper.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> I remember someone making a scorpion from fittings.. It would be really awesome if you did something like that too. ^_^


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> You mean this one?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's L3P's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All those white fittings... I don't think I've ever been more excited about an update full of fittings


I hadn't seen that before! Very cool. I might try my hand at something.


----------



## TheBadBull

I thought it was l3p. Thanks bliz. :3

Also, "try my hand at something" as in making something awesome from something awesome(the fittings)?


----------



## 3930K

Ah I see. Put a video up then!


----------



## Reglar

Great pictures!


----------



## Citra

They look so good in white...


----------



## mosi

Whoa, this build is looking more and more awesome by the day. These fittings look stunning in white!

Saaay, can we get a dominoes video if we all say pretty pleeease?


----------



## Pidoma

Awesome build. Love the custom dye job. Keep up the good work!


----------



## cpachris

I'll be the first to admit that it's no scorpion......


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll be the first to admit that it's no scorpion......












Well done good sir.


----------



## TheBadBull

OU?
Oh. Awesome.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well done good sir.\


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> OU?
> Oh. Awesome.


(...in my Elvis voice) Thank you. Thank you very much.


----------



## Quest99

My weekend update is this!??!

hehe....well done.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> My weekend update is this!??!
> hehe....well done.


But it's opening game day for OU! It's appropriate!









Give me 20 minutes and I'll throw together some pictures of some custom length SATA cables that I'm pretty stoked about. Finally figured out a way to do it.


----------



## cpachris

Another update for my friend Quest.









I found a different kind of SATA data cable that creates some opportunities for custom length cables, as well as an alternative way to sleeve these cables. Thought I would share with some pictures.

I don't know if anyone has ever tried to create a custom length SATA cable, but that is what I had been researching. It's tough. There is very little out there on the web to read about, and the few pictures/tutorials I could find all were incredibly difficult processes because of how small the wires and connections are, and the fact that you would have to solder these tiny little wires to pins that are very close together. As an example, here is what one of my attempts at taking apart a connector yielded me:




There are tiny tiny wires spaced very close together, that are soldered to tiny tiny pins, that are spaced very close together. Then the entire thing is coated in some type of waxy plastic coating to give the little bitty solder connections some strength. It's a mess to take apart, and would be darn near impossible (at least for me) to solder these things back together. Even if I could do it (which I can't) I wouldn't be able to protect the solder connections as well as they had been originally, and would never feel good about pulling on the wire.

I tried this with a handful of different SATA cables and always found about the same thing inside each of the connectors. I decided pretty quickly that this was a dead end street, and committed to buying cables as close to the right length as I could find, and just trying to use some loops to make then work.

Until....I found these cables at FrozenCPU. They are made by Akasa. They are not expensive (about $6 bucks for the 50cm version) at all:



This is a picture of both the Akasa cable, and a normal SATA cable. You will immediately see the difference in the connector size. The Akasa cable's connector is about 1/2 the size of the regular SATA cable. The cable itself is also about 20% narrower, and its actually a little bit thinner also. This makes the cable a little bit more flexible than normal SATA cables, and that is also nice.



Now being smaller and more flexible is a nice thing...but this cable has another surprise. The connector is not one piece. Most SATA cables have a one piece molded connector on the end, with pins that get soldered to the tiny tiny wires. Not this one. This one is a two piece connector that comes apart fairly easy if you stick an exacto knife tip between the edges. Click on this picture to get a larger image and you will see the snap together ridges that hold the two pieces together.



Now once the connector comes apart into two pieces, you see the other thing that is different about this cable. There is no solder. No pins. Click on the picture below and look carefully where the cable ends, and you will see 7 little sets of puncture marks in the cable, in two rows. SATA cables have 8 wires, but 2 of them are usually soldered to one pin on the connector....meaning there are 7 pins in the connector.



What made the 7 sets of puncture marks? Here is the other side of the connector, and you will quickly see the push down style connectors. These teeth are intended to pierce the cable in the exact right spot so that a connection is made with the wires hidden under the insulated cable. It's kind of like the punch down molex connectors I'm using to wire up my PA2's.



The little black cap on the cable end is designed to ensure that the cable is precisely aligned with the teeth on the other part of the connector. As long as the wire is inserted in here...and the connector snaps down into the ridges...you are ensured that the teeth are going to make a connection with the wires. It's brilliant really. Not sure why this isn't being done by every manufacturer. And maybe its more common that I know...but all the other cables I've been buying are the old pin/solder connections.



The end cap slides right off the cable. There is no glue or anything holding it. The metal teeth piercing the cable are what secures the connector to the cable.



And once you slide it off...shortening your cable is as simple as taking your kitchen scissors and cutting it. How about that!



Now making all the SATA cables the EXACT right length for your case would be a fairly easy task with these cables. Buy the long versions (50cm) and just cut them to size and snap back on the connectors. Easy.

But....while you have one end of the connector off...you have some new options available for sleeving the cables. Remember that these wires are thinner and narrower than normal SATA cables. And...since you have the connector completely off of one end, you can actually slide on some regular size sleeve over the cable. You don't have to use the SATA size sleeving! SATA size sleeving is designed a little larger than it really needs to be...so that it can make it over the bulky connector at the end. Well.....without the connector on at the end...you can just slide normal size sleeving on the cable.

First...I used some white electrical tape to cover the black cable. This helps from getting any color bleed through when using white sleeving.



Next, I inched the normal size MDPC-X white sleeve over the cable and cut it to length.



Then I took some of the normal size pre-cut MDPC-X heatshrink, and I cut one of the pieces in half. I don't need much shrink with this method, because it really isn't necessary to hold the sleeve to the cable. It's already tight enough using this method that it's not going to move at all. The shrink is really just to cover the ends.



Stretch it out just a little bit so that you can slide it over the cable....



And then gently work it over the edge that doesn't have the connector on it. .



Once on...slide it all the way to the end that has a connector on it and hit it with your heatgun.



The work the other 1/2 of the shrink you cut onto the cable....before you snap the connector back together.



Then simply snap the connector back into place. I used some needle nose pliers to press it down firmly and evenly. Then slide the shrink back up to the connector and hit it with your heat gun. Done. Easy-peasy. Custom length SATA data cables with normal size sleeving instead of the large sleeving. Nice.

Here is the finished product. I really like how there is not shrink on the connector at all. And I like how much smaller the cable looks than the normal SATA cables. And I really like how thin and flexible it is compared to normal SATA cables.



Of course....I'll be doing both crimson and white for my build.











Hope that helps someone who was searching for a way to do this!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Very nice. But,

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


----------



## Reglar

Great work on the SATA cable research.


----------



## sunn1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Very nice. But,
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1029860/


I love that pic.

Have you tested these cables to check that you haven't upset anything and they work?

Your so tidy at braiding and shrinking, maybe set up a business doing custom cable work?







or maybe just for me lol.

I look on here everyday hoping for updates


----------



## Electrocutor

You completely just saved me a whole ton of wasted time product searching. Make sure you pass it along to Lutro0 in case he wasn't reading.


----------



## Quest99

Cheers! What a guy....keep on killing it. Like whoa.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Awesomeness!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps someone who was searching for a way to do this!


Does it help? Absolutely!









I've been wondering for a while if it was possible to make custom SATA cables. It always seems that retail cables are too long or too short, and they are _all_ way too stiff!


----------



## netdevil

Awesome find! I already have the blue akasa ones in 50cm so this will be of great help


----------



## Whatts

I have the very same cables in my latest rig, but I never looked that closely at the connectors


----------



## 3930K

Well done!


----------



## carmas

Good find with those Akasa cables. +Rep for the tip


----------



## barkinos98

all those fittings







also great way of sleeving the sata


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Very nice. But,
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1029860/


probably just


----------



## theseekeroffun

Chris,
Thanks for the SATA cables.








Too bad they don't make a breakout cable.


----------



## prathik7

arent you using some dust filters for the fans???..with so many fans the cleaning will be hell...


----------



## TPE-331

Hot damn Chris! You were right! I ordered a bunch of "white" pass through fittings directly from Bitspower yesterday! They are so incredibly easy to deal with. We traded emails back and forth yesterday right up until I placed my custom order!







I thought Bitspower would be just like a lot of the other big companies, you contact them and they don't reply back. I was surprised how quick Bitspower was to respond. Great customer service!







They said the fittings will ship straight from Taiwan when they are complete. I'm sure I'll contact them again for more white fittings for my all white "Project Albino" build. involving my T10







Thanks for the tip Chris!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Great work on the SATA cable research.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Very nice.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunn1e*
> 
> Have you tested these cables to check that you haven't upset anything and they work?
> Your so tidy at braiding and shrinking, maybe set up a business doing custom cable work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or maybe just for me lol.
> I look on here everyday hoping for updates


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You completely just saved me a whole ton of wasted time product searching. Make sure you pass it along to Lutro0 in case he wasn't reading.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Cheers! What a guy....keep on killing it. Like whoa.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Does it help? Absolutely!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wondering for a while if it was possible to make custom SATA cables. It always seems that retail cables are too long or too short, and they are _all_ way too stiff!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> Awesome find! I already have the blue akasa ones in 50cm so this will be of great help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> I have the very same cables in my latest rig, but I never looked that closely at the connectors


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Well done!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Good find with those Akasa cables. +Rep for the tip


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Chris,
> Thanks for the SATA cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad they don't make a breakout cable.


Thanks for the kind words on the SATA data cables. Glad it could help some people. Sunn1e...yes, the two I've made worked fine. Working on the other 4 now. I ran some disk benchmarks on the Raid0 array I have with the two cables I've shortened, and got the same great results I did before I made my shortened cables. So I think they work fine!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> all those fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also great way of sleeving the sata


Ha! lol. I wonder if anyone has ever done that. It would be pretty cool....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Hot damn Chris! You were right! I ordered a bunch of "white" pass through fittings directly from Bitspower yesterday! They are so incredibly easy to deal with. We traded emails back and forth yesterday right up until I placed my custom order!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought Bitspower would be just like a lot of the other big companies, you contact them and they don't reply back. I was surprised how quick Bitspower was to respond. Great customer service!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They said the fittings will ship straight from Taiwan when they are complete. I'm sure I'll contact them again for more white fittings for my all white "Project Albino" build. involving my T10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip Chris!


Can't wait to see some pictures of them! They shipped mine incredibly fast. They were sent Thursday evening (Taiwan time) and I had them on Saturday. Love it. Why can't everyone ship like that?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Whoa, this build is looking more and more awesome by the day. These fittings look stunning in white!


Thanks mosi!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> Awesome build. Love the custom dye job. Keep up the good work!


Appreciate the kind words! Thanks Pidoma!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prathik7*
> 
> arent you using some dust filters for the fans???..with so many fans the cleaning will be hell...


Welcome to OCN.


----------



## 3930K

Any more pics?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prathik7*
> 
> arent you using some dust filters for the fans???..with so many fans the cleaning will be hell...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks mosi!
> Appreciate the kind words! Thanks Pidoma!
> *Welcome to OCN.*


He came just to push you to get some filters








Keep up the good work, really liked your find with the SATA cables


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Any more pics?


Coming your way in a few.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> He came just to push you to get some filters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work, really liked your find with the SATA cables


Thanks Mike. You know.....if I sold fan filters, and saw someone with 50+ fans in their case, I think I would probably join the community and make my first post something like that one also.

But in all truthfulness...I'm struggling with whether I want filters or not. It really doesn't take long to clean a box up if you have some compressed air. Would be nice not to have to do that as often....but with filters, you would still have to clean those regularly. Not sure cleaning filters is any more enjoyable than blowing the box clean. And filters definitely reduce air flow.

Would love to know which direction all of you have gone with fan filters. Yes...or no? and why?


----------



## 3930K

YES!


----------



## GingerJohn

Chris, you owe me a new F5 key; I have worn this one out.

Everything is looking great. I love the attention to detail on this build. For most people the red sleeve would be close enough, but no, you go and dye some...

Regarding fan filters, I recently took mine out. They were a pain to clean compared to using my MetroVac on the fans / rads and really got clogged up fast. OK, so a little more dog hair finds it's way into my case, but it is very easy to blow it out.


----------



## 3930K

I now know I am the person that has posted the most in this thread apart from Chris.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Chris, you owe me a new F5 key; I have worn this one out.
> 
> Regarding fan filters, I recently took mine out. They were a pain to clean compared to using my MetroVac on the fans / rads and really got clogged up fast. OK, so a little more dog hair finds it's way into my case, but it is very easy to blow it out.


Ha! I guess that's only fair. I'll have an F5 key powdercoated white with some custom crimson dyed numbers on it and send it your way.









That's kind of how I think I feel about fan filters also. Anybody out there really love their filters?


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ha! I guess that's only fair. I'll have an F5 key powdercoated white with some custom crimson dyed numbers on it and send it your way.


More than fair, and from you I would expect nothing less than a custom powder coated / dyed keycap...









Keep up the great work, rest assured that we are certainly enjoying watching it unfold.


----------



## mosi

Whoa custom length SATA cables? Oh my...
Seriously, your love for detail work is stunning in every way. All of those tiny little problems and things along the way would've probably tired me out not even halfway through (and TBH I wouldn't even have dreamed of attempting a build like this one, not even if hell froze over







). Yet you keep going strong with this one. This ranges smack there with some of the insane build logs over at bit-tech for me. A few years ago there was someone who cut a case almost entirely out of some sort of wood and it looked amazing, sadly I can't find the log anymore, only some pictures, He didn't paint his PSU's though and IIRC there was no white fitting porn involved.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Whoa custom length SATA cables? Oh my...
> Seriously, your love for detail work is stunning in every way. All of those tiny little problems and things along the way would've probably tired me out not even halfway through (and TBH I wouldn't even have dreamed of attempting a build like this one, not even if hell froze over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Yet you keep going strong with this one. This ranges smack there with some of the insane build logs over at bit-tech for me. A few years ago there was someone who cut a case almost entirely out of some sort of wood and it looked amazing, sadly I can't find the log anymore, only some pictures, He didn't paint his PSU's though and IIRC there was no white fitting porn involved.


Thanks for the kind words, mosi! I'm having fun with this build...not getting tired of it at all.

I think Electrocutor is planning some custom built wood panels for his case. You can check out his build log here. Should be pretty sweet.


----------



## sortableturnip

I don't use fan filters personally...just a shot to the system with canned air once a month.

Those SATA cables are the *expletive deleted*(rhymes with hits)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ha! I guess that's only fair. I'll have an F5 key powdercoated white with some custom crimson dyed numbers on it and send it your way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's kind of how I think I feel about fan filters also. Anybody out there really love their filters?


I don't go through the trouble. If it's not a filter that came pre installed on my case, I don't bother adding any additional filters. I periodically take a can of air to the case and that does just fine. I find that usually most filters added as an extra never really look good, and seem to be more of a PIA than a benefit (more time to clean and impede airflow)


----------



## cpachris

I finished making the cables and sleeving them for my second SATA power harness. Pictures below:




On the PSU side of the cable, I went with the shrinkless method straight into a 6-pin connector. I love this picture...



With 16 drives...it was critical to do something clean for the SATA power cables. this could have been a nightmarish nest. Once I'm done with all wiring, I'll play with some sewing of the cables to keep them together at strategic locations.



I thought about making all 16 drives part of a single harness. The drives don't use much in the way of amps, so there wouldn't have been any issues with the 18 awg wire being overloaded. But in the end, I wanted to retain the ability to remove either of the drive cages without unplugging the other one.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Nice job on the shrinkless cables! It looks really clean and "will be trying" to use nothing but shrinkless in my current build.


----------



## Citra

Chris did you replace the broken psu yet?


----------



## sunn1e

sooo soooo tidy







how you haven't got a job building custom comps or just building them in general is amazing.

Will you release a book with all the chapters of this build? for me?
BTW no filters, never have never will. Pain to clean rather just air the case out and have good airflow


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Nice job on the shrinkless cables! It looks really clean and "will be trying" to use nothing but shrinkless in my current build.


Thanks Rocky. I actually find it a much easier method than using heatshrink....and I think it looks better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Chris did you replace the broken psu yet?


I did. Forgot to really do an update on that one. But I got another AX850, and took its guts out....and stuck them back into the powdercoated shell of the one that went bad. I still had to cut and rejoin some cable on the inside, but this time I went with all butt splices. Unlike some of the other Corsair PSU's, you have to either cut...or desolder some connections on the inside of the AX850 to completely take it apart. Based on some of the pictures I've seen of the 1200i, the same connectors I'm having to cut for the AX850....simply pull apart on the 1200i. I've been tinkering with the idea of single larger PSU....because I'm running out of room to put things in cleanly. Although I love the look of the dual PSU's.

In any case, I won't consider making any PSU changes until after I'm done with version 1.0 of this build.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> I thought about making all 16 drives part of a single harness. The drives don't use much in the way of amps, so there wouldn't have been any issues with the 18 awg wire being overloaded. But in the end, I wanted to retain the ability to remove either of the drive cages without unplugging the other one.


I guess you shouldn't have ziptied the harnesses together then...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I guess you shouldn't have ziptied the harnesses together then...


??? Even though the ziptie is temporary...it wouldn't stop me from being able to remove one of the drive cages without unplugging the other one. ???


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## Axis24

Chris i just wanted to say that this build of yours is just amazing,I have watched it come together from post 1 and you never stop amazing me.My hat is off to you my friend.









Unfortunatly mine has come to an end for an unknown amount of time which saddens me considering the reason I was doing it.

But I will be here watching yours and a few others come to flurish.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Chris i just wanted to say that this build of yours is just amazing,I have watched it come together from post 1 and you never stop amazing me.My hat is off to you my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunatly mine has come to an end for an unknown amount of time which saddens me considering the reason I was doing it.
> But I will be here watching yours and a few others come to flurish.


Your comments mean a lot to me and I appreciate it. My prayer for you will be that circumstances change and allow the finish of your amazing build, ....and that it will bring even more awareness of autism and how prevalent it has become. When my son was two years old, we had fears that he could be autistic, based primarily on his long delay in even attempting to talk. Turns out he was fine, ...just delayed in speech. But I did learn more about autism while we searched for answers to his condition.

Take care my friend.


----------



## Bouf0010

the time and effort you are putting into this is inspiring and the level of craftsmanship is astonishing - i look forward to more


----------



## General121

What is the difference between the AX line and HX line from Corsair?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks Rocky. I actually find it a much easier method than using heatshrink....and I think it looks better.
> I did. Forgot to really do an update on that one. But I got another AX850, and took its guts out....and stuck them back into the powdercoated shell of the one that went bad. I still had to cut and rejoin some cable on the inside, but this time I went with all butt splices. Unlike some of the other Corsair PSU's, you have to either cut...or desolder some connections on the inside of the AX850 to completely take it apart. Based on some of the pictures I've seen of the 1200i, the same connectors I'm having to cut for the AX850....simply pull apart on the 1200i. I've been tinkering with the idea of single larger PSU....because I'm running out of room to put things in cleanly. Although I love the look of the dual PSU's.
> In any case, I won't consider making any PSU changes until after I'm done with version 1.0 of this build.


I do agree with you, two identical PSUs do look nicer. Two AX1200is?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouf0010*
> 
> the time and effort you are putting into this is inspiring and the level of craftsmanship is astonishing - i look forward to more


Very kind words....thank you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> What is the difference between the AX line and HX line from Corsair?


I think the main difference is the HX is dual rail and the AX is single rail. There may be an efficiency difference also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> I do agree with you, two identical PSUs do look nicer. Two AX1200is?


I like your style.


----------



## greymonk

AX is fully modular while HX isn't as well. Depending on the model most are actually made by different manufacturer's too.

Oh and to Cpachris: I've been creeping on this thread for a long time. /bow I think the attention to detail is more impressive then the budget.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


Just a thought here, but I think the cages would look better if the bottom power strip was from top to bottom so you would have a double thickness bundle spltting right at the cages.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Very kind words....thank you!
> I think the main difference is the HX is dual rail and the AX is single rail. There may be an efficiency difference also.
> I like your style.


Ah
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greymonk*
> 
> AX is fully modular while HX isn't as well. Depending on the model most are actually made by different manufacturer's too.
> Oh and to Cpachris: I've been creeping on this thread for a long time. /bow I think the attention to detail is more impressive then the budget.


newegg has the ax line as not fully modular. Well, the ax750


----------



## greymonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Ah
> newegg has the ax line as not fully modular. Well, the ax750


My local store only carries an ax750 that is fully modular. http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX29513


----------



## asg

Looking Amazing!!!

I have been lagging on my build.

I saw somewhere you mentioned that the Aquaero and the Power Adjusts only needed the 12V plugs on the molex connectors. Have you tested them to make sure that is the case?

I think I need to clean up my Power Cable for those. Thanks for the idea of the different type of connectors. I had not seen them before.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greymonk*
> 
> AX is fully modular while HX isn't as well. Depending on the model most are actually made by different manufacturer's too.
> Oh and to Cpachris: I've been creeping on this thread for a long time. /bow I think the attention to detail is more impressive then the budget.


Thanks greymonk!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Just a thought here, but I think the cages would look better if the bottom power strip was from top to bottom so you would have a double thickness bundle spltting right at the cages.


I had played with the idea of that configuration, and the only issue was that the spacing is such that the heatshrink on both ends would collide. It would have to be a quick 90 degree turn before the heatshrink started to get it to work. I may play with a sample of doing that just to see if it would work. Because you're right...it would be very clean that way. I appreciate the thoughts!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Ah
> newegg has the ax line as not fully modular. Well, the ax750


I have to take back my answer. greymonk is right. I checked the Corsair site and the HX line is single rail now. I swear it used to be multi-rail. Or maybe they just use to market it as multi-rail and used virtual rails to get around the low ATX spec for amps per rail. Now that the spec has changed, they don't need the virtual rails. The AX750 is full modular also, according to the Corsair site. NewEgg must have it wrong.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asg*
> 
> Looking Amazing!!!
> I have been lagging on my build.
> I saw somewhere you mentioned that the Aquaero and the Power Adjusts only needed the 12V plugs on the molex connectors. Have you tested them to make sure that is the case?
> I think I need to clean up my Power Cable for those. Thanks for the idea of the different type of connectors. I had not seen them before.


I saw your post about being real busy at work. That's a good thing. Or at least...better than the alternative.







Hopefully you get going again soon.

Yes, I first confirmed on the AquaComputer forums that only the 12 volt and ground are needed for the PA2's, and I have all of mine working using just these two wires. So feel confident getting rid of the other two wires. It will look cleaner. However....the AQ5 itself DOES need all 4 wires on the molex. It's only the PA2's that don't need them all. Looking forward to more updates!


----------



## asg

Thank you...


----------



## nateman_doo

Got some more cad work done to the block. LOTS of stuff going on here.. caps, inductors, battery, and all sorts of stuff to avoid. Here is a quick view from the bottom:



Still a ways to go.. but progress has been made.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Got some more cad work done to the block. LOTS of stuff going on here.. caps, inductors, battery, and all sorts of stuff to avoid. Here is a quick view from the bottom:
> 
> Still a ways to go.. but progress has been made.


Inventor right?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Got some more cad work done to the block. LOTS of stuff going on here.. caps, inductors, battery, and all sorts of stuff to avoid. Here is a quick view from the bottom:
> Still a ways to go.. but progress has been made.




Red: will you have to make the block taller to be able to run water through here?

Blue: What's back in this corner that needs to be cooled?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> ??? Even though the ziptie is temporary...it wouldn't stop me from being able to remove one of the drive cages without unplugging the other one. ???


Don't mind me, was just being a little silly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Got some more cad work done to the block. LOTS of stuff going on here.. caps, inductors, battery, and all sorts of stuff to avoid. Here is a quick view from the bottom:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a ways to go.. but progress has been made.












That is going to be one sexy looking block


----------



## 3930K

Nice pics, as always.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> 
> Red: will you have to make the block taller to be able to run water through here?
> Blue: What's back in this corner that needs to be cooled?


The areas with the 4 squares on are for the things that will get cooled


----------



## nateman_doo

The 4 lighter colored squares are the 4 chipsets that the original factory heatsink cool. I am trying to cool every single IC & transistor on the board in that area. The blue area is where I envisioned one of the inlets to be just below the RAM and the USB3 headers and underneath it is an IC (U1052 on the board ).

I guess its not needed since ASrock didn't see the need to cool it, but I figured why not right?

Sniper, its PTC Wildfire.


----------



## 3930K

Holy crap 4 chipsets.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> The 4 lighter colored squares are the 4 chipsets that the original factory heatsink cool. I am trying to cool every single IC & transistor on the board in that area. The blue area is where I envisioned one of the inlets to be just below the RAM and the USB3 headers and underneath it is an IC (U1052 on the board ).
> I guess its not needed since ASrock didn't see the need to cool it, but I figured why not right?


Why not, indeed.









As you tinker with inlet/outlet spots....remember how large my 690's are. They actually extend about 3/4 inch off the right side of the board. It doesn't look like there is room to have an inlet below the ram....It would need to be to the right of the ram and JUST below the USB headers in order to leave enough room for the card. Tough to find a good spot.







But I'm very open to any of the inlets/outlets being just off the bottom or the right side of the board. I saw on the EVGA forums you got all the SR-X blocks shipped. Nice. Does that mean we are up next?


----------



## nateman_doo

See the gap to the right? That large gap, is where the RAM slots are. The one inlet I wanted to try above the battery, and the other in that spot below the RAM as pictured here. Which is right above CHA_FAN3 and just to the left of the USB 3 headers.





This is a VERY complicated block. This is just the bottom... I haven't even started the water-channel, O-ring, bolt holes, or inlets yet.


----------



## cpachris

Got it. When I was mentioning "below" the ram, it was based on re-orienting the block to how it would sit on the motherboard. My 690 comes almost right across the first pin on CHA_FAN3. I think you've zero'd in on one of the few spots that will actually work. I have no idea how you're going to find another one. This board is PACKED and DENSE.


----------



## linkdiablo

Just out of curiosity: if the block is already that large, is it feasible to make it bigger and also cover the CPU?
I think such a large block were it existing would look like a Sabertooth heatshield replica, any thoughts?


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Just out of curiosity: if the block is already that large, is it feasible to make it bigger and also cover the CPU?
> I think such a large block were it existing would look like a Sabertooth heatshield replica, any thoughts?


This..


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Just out of curiosity: if the block is already that large, is it feasible to make it bigger and also cover the CPU?
> I think such a large block were it existing would look like a Sabertooth heatshield replica, any thoughts?


Now that would be completely bad ass. I like the idea.


----------



## cpachris

That may be easier than finding another spot for an inlet/outlet.









But why stop there? Extend it on up to the VRM. Heck...why not just cover the full board in copper, and have some cutouts for the PCI-e slots and fan headers?


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That may be easier than finding another spot for an inlet/outlet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But why stop there? Extend it on up to the VRM. Heck...why not just cover the full board in copper, and have some cutouts for the PCI-e slots and fan headers?


This would be a first. I dont know if Nateman would want to go back to the drawing board, but it would be totally bad a$$.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That may be easier than finding another spot for an inlet/outlet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But why stop there? Extend it on up to the VRM. Heck...why not just cover the full board in copper, and have some cutouts for the PCI-e slots and fan headers?


DO IT!!! DO IT!!!

If you do this'll make up for no fittings/SSD domino.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That may be easier than finding another spot for an inlet/outlet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But why stop there? Extend it on up to the VRM. Heck...why not just cover the full board in copper, and have some cutouts for the PCI-e slots and fan headers?


Chris, you love to make me drool don't you?


----------



## Gabi

Hi chris.
I'm new to this thread so maybe this has been discussed before but i'm just curious, since the budget is no problem, why didnt you go for a dual cpu motherboard like the sr-x?
Anyway this is the most amazing build i've ever seen!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabi*
> 
> Hi chris.
> I'm new to this thread so maybe this has been discussed before but i'm just curious, since the budget is no problem, why didnt you go for a dual cpu motherboard like the sr-x?
> Anyway this is the most amazing build i've ever seen!


Welcome Gabi! Love it when I get people's first post. But....do you mean you haven't gone back and read all 1,600+ posts already? 50 lashes!









Dual cpu's require use of Xeon's, and today's iteration of Xeon won't overclock much at all. So the choice becomes more cores running slower, or fewer cores running faster. I chose fewer cores running faster because I think that will be more beneficial for what I do....and overclocking is fun!


----------



## Electrocutor

The only way I see feasible would be the following:



The red line shows where you cannot have any vertical placement (anything to the right is out of bounds); which leaves one obvious connection, but the other two possibilities would be awefully thin to push water through. I've marked teh widest, but it would still be pretty restrictive when you consider you need enough room on the edges for a lip and o-ring. Perhaps it could be cut much deeper so that an additional piece would need to be on top the part to the left of the red line to have vertical room for G1/4 threads, but then allow a large enough tunnel for the water to not be so restricted.


----------



## Gabi

I just went through the pictures








And yes i signed up just to ask you that, i tought you could put 3960X's on those boards too so my bad.


----------



## fkjac

If Nate can make an integrated CPU block that is as good (or better!) than the one you would otherwise use, I say go for the full block. On the other hand it might spontaneously combust in a roaring pillar of awesome. But you can't know unless you do it *nudge nudge wink wink*


----------



## GingerJohn

I think the biggest problem with the integrated CPU+board block would be the mounting.

I would be hard to get a good mount on the CPU whilst also getting rasonable contact with the rest of the board. I suppose if you used thermal pads for the other components it might work - they compress slightly allowing a bit of leeway. However lining everything up during the mounting would be a pain, as would changing the CPU.

Other than that the cost would likely be rather high, and you would also have to make sure that the CPU block part had decent performance.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> The only way I see feasible would be the following:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fkjac*
> 
> If Nate can make an integrated CPU block that is as good (or better!) than the one you would otherwise use, I say go for the full block. On the other hand it might spontaneously combust in a roaring pillar of awesome. But you can't know unless you do it *nudge nudge wink wink*


There's really not many options, are there? I guess he could also make the block continue up along the memory toward the VRM....kind of like the heatpipe does now. A one piece block that coveres the VRM's also. Then you could easily put an inlet up there. But that would require a much larger block of copper to start with, and would make it much more costly.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fkjac*
> 
> If Nate can make an integrated CPU block that is as good (or better!) than the one you would otherwise use, I say go for the full block. On the other hand it might spontaneously combust in a roaring pillar of awesome. But you can't know unless you do it *nudge nudge wink wink*


Integrating a CPU block would not do anything to help the issue at hand, though.

[Edit]
I also note that you will need to mount the motherboard before puting on the block and use very low screws as two motherboard mounts are covered.


----------



## 3930K

Costly? But this is cpachris?


----------



## nateman_doo

the CPU block has me somewhat concerned. I don't know what CPU block is being used, and the compatibility of other CPU blocks being used. I stayed outside the white line etched in the board for the CPU, but without a CPU block, I can't verify any clearance.

Hopefully this clarifies the placement, and orientation of the block:

My CAD skills aren't the best in the world, but by no means the worst. This just gives me an idea about where everything is going to line up, and any problems.

Working on the hole placement, O-ring channel, and main water chamber.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Costly? But this is cpachris?


There will be more than just me buying the block, so it needs to meet the needs of a larger group. I have about 5 people who have expressed serious interest already.


----------



## barkinos98

ninja'd by chris


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Costly? But this is cpachris?
> 
> 
> 
> There will be more than just me buying the block, so it needs to meet the needs of a larger group. I have about 5 people who have expressed serious interest already.
Click to expand...

Ah I see.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Got it. When I was mentioning "below" the ram, it was based on re-orienting the block to how it would sit on the motherboard. My 690 comes almost right across the first pin on CHA_FAN3. I think you've zero'd in on one of the few spots that will actually work. I have no idea how you're going to find another one. This board is PACKED and DENSE.


Forgot to mention... I have one that I can use to test:


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Forgot to mention... I have one that I can use to test:


Isn't that for another card?


----------



## cpachris

Drilled my first holes in this case!

Some pictures of progress on PA2 mounting bracket. Awhile back, I showed you a prototype of a bracket I was trying to build that solved some issues I had with the AquaComputer bay brackets for the PA2's. Here is a link to that post. I've played around more with it and have pretty much settled on my design. Today I've been tinkering with how to mount the brackets to the case. They need to be ultra sturdy to withstand the force of pulling apart and putting together connections. Here is what I've done.

I started by taping off the area where I would have to drill holes, and marking the locations:



Then I drilled some small pilot holes where I need the larger holes:



Then I switched drill bits and did the larger holes:



Pull off the tape....and I have my first holes in this case.











I'll need to debur them a little bit....

For the mounts, I've opted to use aluminum blocks. There are two different sizes, depending on which side of the case I'm on. For the MB side of the case, the block is 2.5 inches by 1 inch, and I cut three segments of it that were all about 1.5 inches long. For the PSU side of the case, the blocks are shorter. They are 1.5 inches by 1 inch, and again I cut three segments of it that were all about 1.5 inches long.



I'm using the same hole to mount these blocks on both sides of the case. So here is the PSU side with the bolt going through the 1.5 inch block and then the PSU side of the case.....



...and coming out the MB side of the case and through the 2.5 inch block. The 0.5 inch bolts were just a little too short.



So....off to Lowes to get some 3/4 inch bolts, and here are my new results. This picture is from the PSU side....



...and this picture is from the MB side.



So just these 3 holes are allowing me to secure two separate brackets to the case, in the optimal position. The different size aluminum blocks are what is necessary to position the PA2's direction under the fans on the top of the case. It also is a perfect place to have some wiring running, because the whole area is out of view when the doors are on the case. Although.....you know I'll keep the wiring looking neat anyway.









So on each side, I'll end up mounting an aluminum strip on the blocks, that looks something like this (picture from earlier prototype):



I have 12 PA2's, so each strip will hold 6 of them, and they are oriented 90 degree clockwise from the way that the AquaComputer brackets have them...which allows me to keep the molex wiring much cleaner. I'm working now on my final aluminum strips, and then I'll have everything powdercoated white so that it matches the inside of the case perfectly. Then comes the final cabling of all the PA2's, including molex and aquabus connections. Crimson and white sleeve will be used on all of these connections.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Isn't that for another card?


Yup, I am going to be doing a 690 block as well. One of the other projects I am working on.


----------



## sortableturnip

Looks good! Yay white on white


----------



## GingerJohn

Brave man taking a drill to that case...


----------



## nateman_doo

The O-ring channel, and the largest outer water chamber.

This is as wide as it gets. Now to make it deeper.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> 
> See the gap to the right? That large gap, is where the RAM slots are. The one inlet I wanted to try above the battery, and the other in that spot below the RAM as pictured here. Which is right above CHA_FAN3 and just to the left of the USB 3 headers.
> 
> 
> This is a VERY complicated block. This is just the bottom... I haven't even started the water-channel, O-ring, bolt holes, or inlets yet.


I'm definitely interested in one of these when it's done. It looks like it's coming along beautifully. However, you had mentioned that it's looking tight putting in the areas for the o-rings/compression fittings. Have you thought about using the space between the battery and the molex connector for the PCI-E-16x slots between the CPU & the first PCI-E-16x slot? I could see an inlet/outlet for the water channels going there.



I marked in the red rectangle the area I'm talking about. I don't think it would encroach on any CPU waterblocks. Let me know what you think.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> I'm definitely interested in one of these when it's done. It looks like it's coming along beautifully. However, you had mentioned that it's looking tight putting in the areas for the o-rings/compression fittings. Have you thought about using the space between the battery and the molex connector for the PCI-E-16x slots between the CPU & the first PCI-E-16x slot? I could see an inlet/outlet for the water channels going there.
> 
> I marked in the red rectangle the area I'm talking about. I don't think it would encroach on any CPU waterblocks. Let me know what you think.


That area is where the 1st PCI-E slot is


----------



## nateman_doo

One busy block:


Installed on the board:


Not sure why the images are so small, I made them huge.

In any case there is room for moving things around, it will just take a LOT of work to do at this point. I think there is about .2" of clearance with the first 690 whizzing by the inlets. I wish I had a 3d printer to try this out before programming all the toolpaths only to find out the video card is touching the inlets. I will stare at it more and see what other options I can come up with, but this is actually enough to get a prototype going.

Still going to make some channels to guide the water along. Right now its just a large open chamber. Those raised gray sections are hollow underneath to avoid caps for the larger ones, and the small one is a blind hole from the bottom.


----------



## nateman_doo

Just not sure what CPU block is going to be used. It would be sweet if I could score one to install and make sure everything is compatible with it. Thats why I don't want to put the inlet in the area you highlighted. It may work out to be a better spot, but then everything has to bend around the PCI slot, and just hang because there is no mounting screw.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

You can always click the images for larger (or right click and open in a new page).


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> You can always click the images for larger (or right click and open in a new page).


Or middle click.


----------



## nateman_doo

some were across 3 monitors. Wanted to show some close ups.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Just not sure what CPU block is going to be used. It would be sweet if I could score one to install and make sure everything is compatible with it. Thats why I don't want to put the inlet in the area you highlighted. It may work out to be a better spot, but then everything has to bend around the PCI slot, and just hang because there is no mounting screw.


I could probably go ahead and get my cpu block and send it your way. I'm still leaning towards the Raystorm Full Copper, but was kind of hoping to see Stren's initial results this week before buying. He's doing a cpu block roundup test. If the block would help, PM me address to send it to.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I could probably go ahead and get my cpu block and send it your way. I'm still leaning towards the Raystorm Full Copper, but was kind of hoping to see Stren's initial results this week before buying. He's doing a cpu block roundup test. If the block would help, PM me address to send it to.


The Raystorm is not the best option for SB-E, I would recommend something else.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> The Raystorm is not the best option for SB-E, I would recommend something else.


Feel free to recommend with reasons.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Feel free to recommend with reasons.


My bad, I'm sleepy and got confused with a different CPU block. zzzzz


----------



## Hattifnatten

Damn it, I were late for school because I started reading on this thread earlier today


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I could probably go ahead and get my cpu block and send it your way. I'm still leaning towards the Raystorm Full Copper, but was kind of hoping to see Stren's initial results this week before buying. He's doing a cpu block roundup test. If the block would help, PM me address to send it to.


I think you know what block I think you should get


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I think you know what block I think you should get


That may work. When u install the block, how much past the white etching on the board does the CPU block go?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> That may work. When u install the block, how much past the white etching on the board does the CPU block go?


The only person I know of with that block is theseekeroffun, so I would direct the question to him


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> Damn it, I were late for school because I started reading on this thread earlier today


Shall I write a note for your teacher?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> That may work. When u install the block, how much past the white etching on the board does the CPU block go?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> The only person I know of with that block is theseekeroffun, so I would direct the question to him


I have no intentions of using that block.


----------



## JennG

version 1.0? You mean there are going to be MORE versions!?!


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> version 1.0? You mean there are going to be MORE versions!?!


Welcome to the Forum!

Yes, a lot of people build their rig and then continue to tweak it afterwards. Little things that you didn't consider come up, better ways of doing things etc. Or you may find that things don't work as well as you thought they would and you want to improve them.

It is a disease, but I am really not interested in the cure...









Also, Chris, how many first posts are you going to get in your thread? Kind of underlines the epicness of this build.


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Welcome to the Forum!
> Yes, a lot of people build their rig and then continue to tweak it afterwards. Little things that you didn't consider come up, better ways of doing things etc. Or you may find that things don't work as well as you thought they would and you want to improve them.
> It is a disease, but I am really not interested in the cure...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, Chris, how many first posts are you going to get in your thread? Kind of underlines the epicness of this build.


Sadly, I have been reading from the start. And watching first hand the "epicness" of this build. It truly is amazing and a work of art. I knew nothing about computers prior to this and now know more than I probably wished I did. It has been an education for sure. I am so incredibly proud and awed at what Chris has/is doing. I would just like to have the living room back.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Sadly, I have been reading from the start. And watching first hand the "epicness" of this build. It truly is amazing and a work of art. I knew nothing about computers prior to this and now know more than I probably wished I did. It has been an education for sure. I am so incredibly proud and awed at what Chris has/is doing. I would just like to have the living room back.


I find this hilarious.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Sadly, I have been reading from the start. And watching first hand the "epicness" of this build. It truly is amazing and a work of art. I knew nothing about computers prior to this and now know more than I probably wished I did. It has been an education for sure. I am so incredibly proud and awed at what Chris has/is doing. I would just like to have the living room back.


I see.

In that case I am very sorry for encouraging Chris along the way. Not

Thankyou for allowing him the use of the your living room to create this work of art.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> version 1.0? You mean there are going to be MORE versions!?!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Sadly, I have been reading from the start. And watching first hand the "epicness" of this build. It truly is amazing and a work of art. I knew nothing about computers prior to this and now know more than I probably wished I did. It has been an education for sure. I am so incredibly proud and awed at what Chris has/is doing. I would just like to have the living room back.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> I find this hilarious.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> I see.
> In that case I am very sorry for encouraging Chris along the way. Not
> Thankyou for allowing him the use of the your living room to create this work of art.


JennG is my sweetie. I put a pic in a post somewhere back down the line. Nice to see her stepping out and making a post. And Jenn.....I promise to release the living room before the end of the month.









I drew my brother into this mess at some point also. He's "engmitch".


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> JennG is my sweetie. I put a pic in a post somewhere back down the line. Nice to see her stepping out and making a post. And Jenn.....I promise to release the living room before the end of the month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew my brother into this mess at some point also. He's "engmitch".


Consider yourself lucky. All I get from family and relatives is "why in the world would you waste so much money on a computer? and why would you even want it so big?" I suppose if I were wise, I'd have spent the money to re-shingle my house with solar shingles or something, but all work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.


----------



## cpachris

Always love the packages coming in from Germany....



I wonder if that is hot coffee...or something more deadly..

This is primarily some more SATA sleeving and heatshrink. A few odds and ends like cable clamps and some screws also.



....and as always....a sample color or two from Nils. Bright!


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

That picture is awesome lol


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> And Jenn.....I promise to release the living room before the end of the month.


There you go Jenn, you have it in writing now...









I wonder how many long suffering partners there are related to members of this site. When I am building / tinkering with a rig my GF has to put up with me taking up the table (rig), half her desk (parts), the bedroom (boxes), the stove top (for sleeving) and most of the counter space (tools).

To be fair the last time was to build the "work rig" to replace her old HP laptop. Since she works from home a decent computer is quite important.

I have tried to get her interested in computers but her eyes glaze over after about 2 minutes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if that is hot coffee...or something more deadly..


Judging by the chef's hat I'm going to guess that is something to do with you dying sleeving.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Judging by the chef's hat I'm going to guess that is something to do with you dying sleeving.


Could be!


----------



## 3930K

NILS is on OCN!

Now who is Nils...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Welcome to the Forum!
> Yes, a lot of people build their rig and then continue to tweak it afterwards. Little things that you didn't consider come up, better ways of doing things etc. Or you may find that things don't work as well as you thought they would and you want to improve them.
> *It is a disease, but I am really not interested in the cure...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Also, Chris, how many first posts are you going to get in your thread? Kind of underlines the epicness of this build.


This
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Sadly, I have been reading from the start. And watching first hand the "epicness" of this build. It truly is amazing and a work of art. I knew nothing about computers prior to this and now know more than I probably wished I did. It has been an education for sure. I am so incredibly proud and awed at what Chris has/is doing. I would just like to have the living room back.


Give it back Chris! LOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> NILS is on OCN!
> Now who is Nils...


I would like to know myself, where!


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> That area is where the 1st PCI-E slot is


Actually, I was talking about this area (again circled with the red rectangle):



As you can see, it's between the 1st PCI-E slot and the CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Just not sure what CPU block is going to be used. It would be sweet if I could score one to install and make sure everything is compatible with it. Thats why I don't want to put the inlet in the area you highlighted. It may work out to be a better spot, but then everything has to bend around the PCI slot, and just hang because there is no mounting screw.


I could see a possible obstruction with some air cooling blocks. But most water cooling CPU blocks wouldn't obstruct that area (including the ones people have been suggesting for use with this motherboard). And lets face it, it someone's liquid cooling the chipset, I highly doubt that they aren't liquid cooling the CPU. As for the one I'm using at present, it's the Swiftech Apogee-HD CPU Waterblock. And that one definitely leaves room in that area.

As for the lack of mounting screws for that area, I thought that was was mainly an issue for areas which need to maintain contact with the block for cooling. But then again, I'm not a block maker and no absolutely nothing about the manufacturing process in making one. So I'd have to defer to your expertise. I was just trying to make a suggestion which I thought might have been helpful. Keep up the great work!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> NILS is on OCN!
> Now who is Nils...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I would like to know myself, where!


Well....I could tell you...but then...


----------



## engmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I drew my brother into this mess at some point also. He's "engmitch".


I'm still following most every day. I've been able to resist coming to see it IRL due to the quality of pictures you take.


----------



## cpachris

Oh happy day. Second package arrives. First MDPC....and now FCPU!



That' 7 more NB fans there in the back. When I initially counted up what I would need and ordered, I wasn't including replacing the fans inside the PSU's....and I didn't have the custom bottom for the pedestal with fan holes yet. So....more painting and fan prep are in my future. When I do it this time, I'll also knock out those 140mm fans, as well as the little baby fans on the back of the MB tray. I actually tried to order these about 3 weeks ago, and everyone online was out of them. FCPU replenished their stock last week, so now I have all my fans.

Also, I've opted for 2 more pumps, and you'll see the mod kits and tops from Bitspower down there. One more PA2....bringing my total to twelve. A few more SATA cables. Some plumbers tape. Some clear and white tubing. An assortment of pins and connectors.

Also, a male 20 pin USB 3.0 connector to two USB type A connectors. I need it because the CaseLabs USB 3.0 add-in uses up two of the motherboard connectors. Well...I only have two. But my card reader also requires a motherboard header. So....I'll use this to convert it to type A connectors, and then run it down through the pedestal and out the back to connect to some of the rear USB 3.0 connections. Not as clean as having another MB header available...but it will be worth it to me to have all the USB 3.0 connections on the front of the box, and USB3.0 speeds for my card reader. I import photos off my card almost every day...and I'm looking forward to this process going faster.


----------



## theseekeroffun

You should get one of these.


----------



## TPE-331

Chris, I have to resist the temptation and stay away from your log until Saturday.







I need something to read while I'm on military drill this weekend!







Have a good one man!


----------



## StormX2

The Money shot If I ever saw one right there!

OMG Dude


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> You should get one of these.


If it were USB 3.0 I'd have to look into it. Ever see any like that for 3.0?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Chris, I have to resist the temptation and stay away from your log until Saturday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need something to read while I'm on military drill this weekend!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good one man!


Oo-rah!


----------



## Electrocutor

Be careful with the plumber's tape. If you've installed some faucets you'll know to be wary not to let it crumble to the inside of your loop. I was debating whether or not to use any; I figure I'd have to cut it into a really thin slice so as not to have any risk of flaking/crumbling off into the water.


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> the CPU block has me somewhat concerned. I don't know what CPU block is being used, and the compatibility of other CPU blocks being used. I stayed outside the white line etched in the board for the CPU, but without a CPU block, I can't verify any clearance.
> Hopefully this clarifies the placement, and orientation of the block:
> 
> My CAD skills aren't the best in the world, but by no means the worst. This just gives me an idea about where everything is going to line up, and any problems.
> Working on the hole placement, O-ring channel, and main water chamber.


You know, until that post I was expecting that block to magically cover the whole board, must've missed the post with the initial idea. In this build everything seems possible anyway








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Sadly, I have been reading from the start. And watching first hand the "epicness" of this build. It truly is amazing and a work of art. I knew nothing about computers prior to this and now know more than I probably wished I did. It has been an education for sure. I am so incredibly proud and awed at what Chris has/is doing. I would just like to have the living room back.


Is this the Big Budget Boomer Daily Soap now? Damn its hard to type while laughing this hard


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> NILS is on OCN!
> Now who is Nils...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I would like to know myself, where!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well....I could tell you...but then...
Click to expand...

Please.... :3


----------



## barkinos98

are you planning on removing that handle when done, if it can be removed? it looks a bit weird now...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Please.... :3


Nils. Is. MDPC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> are you planning on removing that handle when done, if it can be removed? it looks a bit weird now...


Handle?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Handle?


I think he means the super-duper tech station emergency ejection stabilizer.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> are you planning on removing that handle when done, if it can be removed? it looks a bit weird now...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I think he means the super-duper tech station emergency ejection stabilizer.


If so....then no. The slide out motherboard tray is one of the coolest features of the CaseLabs cases. Built-in tech station. Very cool.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> If so....then no. The slide out motherboard tray is one of the coolest features of the CaseLabs cases. Built-in tech station. Very cool.


But the rubber feet are too tall to stay connected while sliding in, so it misses the extraordinarily cool mark.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> But the rubber feet are too tall to stay connected while sliding in, so it misses the extraordinarily cool mark.


Where does "uber-cool" fit in on the sliding scale?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Where does "uber-cool" fit in on the sliding scale?


When the case frame itself is a radiator with water channels? I'm not really sure.

[Edit]
Clarification:
The tech station has built-in auto-connect quick disconnects that engage and disengage when sliding the station into and out of the chassis which connect to a copper tubing framework throughout the case, using the aluminum structure as a radiator. I'm not sure if that reaches "uber" or not, but it would have to be pretty close.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> When the case frame itself is a radiator with water channels? I'm not really sure.


Now there is a thought.

I know Zalman did one a while ago where there was a rad built in to one side of the case (the LQ1000) but to make the whole case a radiator... That really would be something.


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Sadly, I have been reading from the start. And watching first hand the "epicness" of this build. It truly is amazing and a work of art. I knew nothing about computers prior to this and now know more than I probably wished I did. It has been an education for sure. I am so incredibly proud and awed at what Chris has/is doing. I would just like to have the living room back.


LOL it has got to be his wife!!!! And no you will never get the living room back, just wait until it consumes the kitchen, basement, patio,bathroom and then finally the bedroom.HAHAHA


----------



## 3930K

Chris needs his GF...


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> LOL it has got to be his *wife*!!!! And no you will never get the living room back, just wait until it consumes the kitchen, basement, patio,bathroom and then finally the bedroom.HAHAHA


That might be his next big project


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I think he means the super-duper tech station emergency ejection stabilizer.


Yes this...


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> LOL it has got to be his wife!!!! And no you will never get the living room back, just wait until it consumes the kitchen, basement, patio,bathroom and then finally the bedroom.HAHAHA


Naw, just the GF. And it has already taken over the living room, kitchen, formal dining, office and entry way. But hey, a boys got to have his toys.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Chris needs his GF...


His GF is right here and supportive....until she has a party- then he has to pick it all up.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Naw, just the GF. And it has already taken over the living room, kitchen, formal dining, office and entry way. But hey, a boys got to have his toys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His GF is right here and supportive....until she has a party- then he has to pick it all up.


What is your opinion about him building this rig?


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Naw, just the GF. And it has already taken over the living room, kitchen, formal dining, office and entry way. But hey, a boys got to have his toys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His GF is right here and supportive....until she has a party- then he has to pick it all up.


Thanks for being an understanding girlfriend we need Chris here, and thank goodness you do not want to kill me for being the initial cause of this undertaking due to my build log.LOL


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> What is your opinion about him building this rig?


I love it! I am glad he enjoys it so much and is finally getting to do it. I also love the fact that he takes the time to explain each step to me and that he also "dumbs it down" so I can understand it. Although..... he could take SOME of that money and buy a ring. Just sayin.


----------



## 3930K

He hasn't given you a ring yet?


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axis24*
> 
> Thanks for being an understanding girlfriend we need Chris here, and thank goodness you do not want to kill me for being the initial cause of this undertaking due to my build log.LOL


Never! maybe when he is done with his build, he will do one for me. But mine will have to be Orange and Black- go pokes! (yes we are a house divided)


----------



## nyk20z3

Amazing build overall and did Caselabs custom paint this case for you ?


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> He hasn't given you a ring yet?


No! can you believe it? An incredibly understanding woman who not only is supportive but is encouraging in your desires for your hobbies. What more could a guy want?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Naw, just the GF. And it has already taken over the living room, kitchen, formal dining, office and entry way. But hey, a boys got to have his toys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His GF is right here and supportive....until she has a party- then *she* has to pick it all up.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> No! can you believe it? An incredibly understanding woman who not only is supportive but is encouraging in your desires for your hobbies. What more could a guy want?


This seems like a trick question.

Also glad to see I'm not the only one thinking construction colours for a build.


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*


Are you kidding? He won't let anyone TOUCH his computer stuff... or walk in the living room, etc. So HE gets to pick it up- SHE will then clean(because we both know he won't do it right).


----------



## JennG

This seems like a trick question.

You are wise indeed.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> No! can you believe it? An incredibly understanding woman who not only is supportive but is encouraging in your desires for your hobbies. What more could a guy want?


----------



## 3930K

Not sure if this or derickwm thread has derailed more


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> No! can you believe it? An incredibly understanding woman who not only is supportive but is encouraging in your desires for your hobbies. What more could a guy want?


Simple answer, two or three more..................................


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> You should get one of these.


Yeap the NZXT internal usb hub makes futzing with my Aquaero that much easier.


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Simple answer, two or three more..................................


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Not sure if this or derickwm thread has derailed more


agreed- this thread has become:


----------



## General121

JennG, im suprised how quickly you have joined and taken to OCN and already appear to fit in perfectly


----------



## nvidiaftw12

This thread went from buildlog to family discussion just like that...


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> This thread went from buildlog to family discussion just like that...


Any discussion is good. As long as its not hate/flame war.

I do not believe in the word off topic. How can something be off topic if it is currently being talked about by more than one person?









Also, as long as chris, or any other person where a thread gets derailed in, doesnt mind, I dont see the issue if its their thread.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Never! maybe when he is done with his build, he will do one for me. But mine will have to be Orange and Black- go pokes! (yes we are a house divided)


You and Derick would get along swimmingly.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1220143/sponsored-aldri-forn-yd-sth10-7990s-skulltrail-sr-2-z9pe-d8


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You and Derick would get along swimmingly.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1220143/sponsored-aldri-forn-yd-sth10-7990s-skulltrail-sr-2-z9pe-d8


Yes! now that is what I'm talking about-


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> JennG, im suprised how quickly you have joined and taken to OCN and already appear to fit in perfectly


Why Thank you, thank you very much (in my best Elvis voice)


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Yes! now that is what I'm talking about-


I think I found the right size too... 10"x16"x14" (unless you'd like a monster too)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1279693/bitfenix-prodigy-owners-club/30#post_17667625


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> Why Thank you, thank you very much (in my best Elvis voice)


If its too off topic for you you could help him post updates









I wanna see more from nate too.

Also, what mobo is that that needs that specialized a block and why?


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I think I found the right size too... 10"x16"x14" (unless you'd like a monster too)
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1279693/bitfenix-prodigy-owners-club/30#post_17667625


*sigh* a girl can dream.


----------



## GingerJohn

<<<- Orange is an awesome colour...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I think I found the right size too... 10"x16"x14" (unless you'd like a monster too)
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1279693/bitfenix-prodigy-owners-club/30#post_17667625
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that I like.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> *sigh* a girl can dream.


About the little case or a, ahem, "monster"?


----------



## cpachris

good grief. I run errands for an hour, come back home, and my thread has been hijacked by my sweetie. jeez.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Amazing build overall and did Caselabs custom paint this case for you ?


Thanks, and yes!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> Yeap the NZXT internal usb hub makes futzing with my Aquaero that much easier.


Do you need more than one USB connection? I'm plugging the AQ5 into the USB....but I'm daisychaining all of the PA2's directly to the AQ5 with the aquabus. Don't really need more than one USB to set it up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Also, what mobo is that that needs that specialized a block and why?


It's the Asrock Extreme11, and there are no block makers for it right now.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> I love it! I am glad he enjoys it so much and is finally getting to do it. I also love the fact that he takes the time to explain each step to me and that he also "dumbs it down" so I can understand it. Although..... he could take SOME of that money and buy a ring. Just sayin.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> good grief. I run errands for an hour, come back home, and my thread has been hijacked by my sweetie. jeez.


Isn't keeping things interesting part of her job description?


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> good grief. I run errands for an hour, come back home, and my thread has been hijacked by my sweetie. jeez.
> 
> ROFLMAO Now we will all be looking for updates from her!!!!


----------



## Quest99

What the??? I work hard all day and log to OCN to see 55 new replies and no updates!?!









Where are my manners? Welcome to OCN Jenn!


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> What the??? I work hard all day and log to OCN to see 55 new replies and no updates!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are my manners? Welcome to OCN Jenn!


You should see Dericks threads. Lol.


----------



## conntick

Do not actually see Dericks thread.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> If its too off topic for you you could help him post updates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna see more from nate too.


My pleasure.




I am debating on trying a bevel on the inside. Probably pointless since you won't see the inside. More was done, but not pictured here. One significant improvement to add some surface area above the lower chipsets.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> My pleasure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am debating on trying a bevel on the inside. Probably pointless since you won't see the inside. More was done, but not pictured here. One significant improvement to add some surface area above the lower chipsets.


Very cool watching the block start to take shape.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> I love it! I am glad he enjoys it so much and is finally getting to do it. I also love the fact that he takes the time to explain each step to me and that he also "dumbs it down" so I can understand it. Although..... he could take SOME of that money and buy a ring. Just sayin.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> My pleasure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am debating on trying a bevel on the inside. Probably pointless since you won't see the inside. More was done, but not pictured here. One significant improvement to add some surface area above the lower chipsets.


Block is coming along great! Wish you had a build log though


----------



## cpachris

One of the small items in my FPCU package today was the mounting bracket for the Aquaero LT. For anyone else considering the LT....it does not come with a mounting bracket at all. I wanted to mount this one directly underneath the XT so that I could do a fittings only connection between the two. This placement also leaves the waterblock openings very close to either the top of the AMS rad, or to where one of the reservoirs will be. It should help me keep the loop looking manageable.

Here is a shot of both of them from inside the case.



I'll do a custom molex cord for it and sleeve both it and the USB connections, naturally. You'll also notice that the Blu-Ray player and card reader are missing from any of these spots. I've opted to move both of those items down into the fley bay spots in the pedestal. That leaves this section with only short mounts above the radiator...and very clean looking. Here is what it looks like from the front of the case.



To use the bay cover in front of the AQ5 LT, along with the short mount adapter....I had to grind down the raised section of the threads on the back of the bay cover just a little bit. The thumb screws only barely reached without a little grinding action. Now they are sturdy. You can also see in the picture above my copper thumbscrews vs the black ones. I'm waiting until I'm just about done to do a final copper plating order...and I'll finish off the screws then.

In this screen shot below you can see the two AQ5's both showing up in the Aquasuite. I haven't hooked up any of my sensors yet...but since it will read the sensors from Aida64...I got a chance to play around a little bit with setting up controllers and information screens, etc. It's very cool stuff. The only downside is that the two AQ5's do not share sensors. So if I wanted to use a certain sensor value (water temp) to control fans or pumps that were hooked up to both AQ5's...I'd have to have two sensors.

Or....I wonder if I split the temperature sensor wire into a "y" right before both AQ5's.....hmmmm. Might have to try that.



Really want to get my PA2 mounts finished and then get them all wired up and sleeved. Must play with Aquasuite more.


----------



## ShirkerBee

Just registered in order to subscribe to your build log. Having read through your build initially then looking through some of the other posts on this board I am amazed at the work you guys do. Has definately given me a lot of food for thought for my next build.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShirkerBee*
> 
> Just registered in order to subscribe to your build log. Having read through your build initially then looking through some of the other posts on this board I am amazed at the work you guys do. Has definately given me a lot of food for thought for my next build.


Welcome to OCN, you've jumped into one of the best logs I've seen around here....enjoy your stay


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShirkerBee*
> 
> Just registered in order to subscribe to your build log. Having read through your build initially then looking through some of the other posts on this board I am amazed at the work you guys do. Has definately given me a lot of food for thought for my next build.


Welcome!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Or....I wonder if I split the temperature sensor wire into a "y" right before both AQ5's.....hmmmm. Might have to try that.


You can definitely try, but I would guess it will end up being like trying to split a mic signal between two amps and require some work. I've never tried it though, so by all means...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShirkerBee*
> 
> Just registered in order to subscribe to your build log. Having read through your build initially then looking through some of the other posts on this board I am amazed at the work you guys do. Has definately given me a lot of food for thought for my next build.


ShirkerBee....welcome! What forum had you been spending the most time on previously? OCN will give you some awesome ideas. There are some crazy good build logs and excellent pictures in this forum.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You can definitely try, but I would guess it will end up being like trying to split a mic signal between two amps and require some work. I've never tried it though, so by all means...


I'll try. I'll rig up two temp sensors in the same place...and then on one of them I'll split the ends and take them to both AQ5's....and see if the results vary from the first sensor. With the AQ5's right next to each other...splitting the ends into Y's right before they plug in would still look pretty clean.


----------



## barkinos98

you what this build needs? an audioengine A5+. also my 1337'th post!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> you what this build needs? an audioengine A5+. also my 1337'th post!


That will depend on the sound card. With an extremely high-end sound card, these speakers could be properly utilized. The other option would be to use the digital output of the onboard sound and use higher quality DACs in a decoder/amp with non-powered speakers.


----------



## barkinos98

like which card? im planning on a pair, at least the A2 (i think, the cheapest) and do want to hear good audio.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> like which card? im planning on a pair, at least the A2 (i think, the cheapest) and do want to hear good audio.


Likely an Asus Xonar at this point... sound cards are really disappointing lately. Pretty much every review you'll find about Creative's new Sound Core3D (branded Recon3D) says it's an all-in-one chip, but is clearly not of audiophile quality and is not even in the same ballpark as the previous Audigy or X-Fi. Ever since Apple took over the MP3 market from them (Nomad was the de facto MP3 player before Apple made an iPod), Creative has been trying to make popular products instead of high quality ones for whatever reason.

I've heard decent things about the Audioengine D1 for a DAC that's almost always better than whatever would be internal, but you can only get the 192KHz from the optical port, and you wouldn't be able to setup two pair of A5+'s for surround like you would with a full blown pre-amp.

The long story short is that you have some options to reach audiophile quality, but you're going to have to put in a lot of research to find exactly what you want.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> you what this build needs? an audioengine A5+. also my 1337'th post!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> That will depend on the sound card. With an extremely high-end sound card, these speakers could be properly utilized. The other option would be to use the digital output of the onboard sound and use higher quality DACs in a decoder/amp with non-powered speakers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> like which card? im planning on a pair, at least the A2 (i think, the cheapest) and do want to hear good audio.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Likely an Asus Xonar at this point... sound cards are really disappointing lately. Pretty much every review you'll find about Creative's new Sound Core3D (branded Recon3D) says it's an all-in-one chip, but is clearly not of audiophile quality and is not even in the same ballpark as the previous Audigy or X-Fi. Ever since Apple took over the MP3 market from them (Nomad was the de facto MP3 player before Apple made an iPod), Creative has been trying to make popular products instead of high quality ones for whatever reason.
> I've heard decent things about the Audioengine D1 for a DAC that's almost always better than whatever would be internal, but you can only get the 192KHz from the optical port, and you wouldn't be able to setup two pair of A5+'s for surround like you would with a full blown pre-amp.
> The long story short is that you have some options to reach audiophile quality, but you're going to have to put in a lot of research to find exactly what you want.


I agree with Electrocutor that nice speakers would probably require getting a sound card if they are to be fully appreciated. But...I have two other rooms in the house with very nice music listening environments. Not sure I'm trying to create a third with this build. There's no way I could beat or even duplicate my sound environments in the other rooms. 9.2 surround with large speakers and lots of amps.....will trump some computer speakers any day of the week.


----------



## barkinos98

how bad would be the sound if i only use a xonar DX (the pcie one)


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Block is coming along great! Wish you had a build log though


I will organize them into one thread at some point.

In any case, I forgot the most important part... the paper prototype:


----------



## Quest99

B&W ...


----------



## mphysgr

I am curious to see if splitting the temp sensor will work. Many temp sensors work by measuring the resistance which is a function of temperature. If you split the cable, you now will have something a little different going on which may change the resistance. I am excited to see your results!


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I will organize them into one thread at some point.
> In any case, I forgot the most important part... the paper prototype:


Wicked, glad to see everything's coming together nicely.


----------



## Hattifnatten

That waterblock just keeps looking better every time I see it. Can't wait to see the finished product


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I will organize them into one thread at some point.
> In any case, I forgot the most important part... the paper prototype:


----------



## braindeadmac

So how do you get the paper watertight?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> So how do you get the paper watertight?


=.="


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> So how do you get the paper watertight?


----------



## nateman_doo

Permatex. Works every time


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> So how do you get the paper watertight?


 laminate it?


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Permatex. Works every time


So the paper version is quite a bit cheaper than the full copper....but no warranty? Your stuff is awesome, nate. Sadly I found your thread over at evga the day after I bought my SR-2 waterblocks.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> So the paper version is quite a bit cheaper than the full copper....but no warranty? Your stuff is awesome, nate. Sadly I found your thread over at evga the day after I bought my SR-2 waterblocks.


Note sure if trolling or...


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> So the paper version is quite a bit cheaper than the full copper....but no warranty? Your stuff is awesome, nate. Sadly I found your thread over at evga the day after I bought my SR-2 waterblocks.


ehh its ok. No worries. Thanks though!









Working on the VR block now.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

I found a thread claiming a 460 2win block, I'm following nate now XD


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> I found a thread claiming a 460 2win block, I'm following nate now XD


yup
http://goo.gl/5w8By

So what do you think of the design? To much? to little? it works?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> yup
> http://goo.gl/jUpco
> So what do you think of the design? To much? to little? it works?


I know literally nothing about open loop watercooling other than the types of parts, it looks solid but if it works I will be buying one regardless. Its gotta be better than my air cooler on it.

Edit: you made a waterblock, that ALSO had a fan on it, and dropped the temps by 10 degrees... Victory.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> yup
> http://goo.gl/jUpco
> So what do you think of the design? To much? to little? it works?


Nateman, your designs are &^*$^ awesome! You are a true artist


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Note sure if trolling or...


I don't troll. It was a joke. Apparently a poor one.


----------



## nateman_doo

Thanks. Didn't get to finish the VR section. I will work on it over the weekend, providing that I can fix the CAD program on my laptop... If I can't then I can't touch it until monday. sad.


----------



## exnihilo

Subbed!

cg


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exnihilo*
> 
> Subbed!
> cg


Welcome along exnihilo!


----------



## cpachris

Today I'm playing around with reservoir and pump placement options. I'm also doing another dye batch for the SATA sleeve I got last week. The dye batch is about a 4 hour process. Don't know why I didn't think about dyeing any of the SATA sleeve the first time. I think I'll use the small sleeve on the normal SATA cables, as I showed in a previous post. But the SAS>SATA breakout cables are going to require the larger sleeve. I got some shorter SAS>SATA cables last week that are just 18 inches....instead of the 30 inch monsters I originally had. My initial plan is to gather all 4 SATA cables inside of one SATA sleeve at the SAS end...and keep them inside one connector for all the portion that will show on the MB side of the case. I'll then have some heatshrink that marks the spot were each cable will be separated into its own SATA sleeve.

I hope to be done with the SATA sleeving tonight, so I should have some more pics up then. Here are a couple pics of its current state:



I'm really loving what the XXL window shows off on the MB side of the case. Especially once I get the 24pin sleeved, and some tubing running from the reservoirs. The AMS copper fin radiator also shows off nicely with the XXL window.



Those that have been paying close attention will notice a different CPU cooler. I didn't like how much the last one pressed on the top 690. It was putting pressure on it. Even though this cooler is just temporary until it all goes under water...I wanted to eliminate that pressure. So here is a Zalman that gives me more clearance underneath it.


----------



## Electrocutor

Do you have any mess shots of your work area(s)?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Do you have any mess shots of your work area(s)?


I'd take one now....but JennG made me clean up everything in the living room and dining room yesterday for a Scentsy party she was doing.









It had gotten pretty bad. I had banished everyone from the living room for almost 2 months now. But....it is nice to be able to see the floor again....and to be able to take a step without worrying you might be crushing a $1,000 component. I would guess you are starting to accumulate some boxes and piles of parts at this point. Yes?


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'd take one now....but JennG made me clean up everything in the living room and dining room yesterday for a Scentsy party she was doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It had gotten pretty bad. I had banished everyone from the living room for almost 2 months now. But....it is nice to be able to see the floor again....and to be able to take a step without worrying you might be crushing a $1,000 component. I would guess you are starting to accumulate some boxes and piles of parts at this point. Yes?


LOL my wife is just as unhappy about my commandeering the family room.

Your build is coming along great.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'd take one now....but JennG made me clean up everything in the living room and dining room yesterday for a Scentsy party she was doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It had gotten pretty bad. I had banished everyone from the living room for almost 2 months now. But....it is nice to be able to see the floor again....and to be able to take a step without worrying you might be crushing a $1,000 component. I would guess you are starting to accumulate some boxes and piles of parts at this point. Yes?


Nah... I'm just getting started.


----------



## cpachris

Quick update. I made it through another dye batch. Now I have a heap of crimson MDPC-X SATA sleeve.



I also did 5 more SATA cables, and now have all of the non-breakout SATA cables done.



Slowly but surely all of the non-sleeved cables are disappearing.



Working on the SAS>SATA breakout cables right now.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm really loving what the XXL window shows off on the MB side of the case. Especially once I get the 24pin sleeved, and some tubing running from the reservoirs. The AMS copper fin radiator also shows off nicely with the XXL window.


I was about to comment on you 24 pin's sleeving but since you mentionned it, I will simply say that I'm awaiting the gorgeousness of uniform sleeving.








Edit: Can you make custom lengths of breakout cable?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I was about to comment on you 24 pin's sleeving but since you mentionned it, I will simply say that I'm awaiting the gorgeousness of uniform sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Can you make custom lengths of breakout cable?


I've got this big mental block on starting the 24 pin. I need to make it start two PSU's, as well as run the auto-shutdown cord for the AQ5. I'm going to try and keep all the double wires, and splices on the PSU side....and have only a clean 24 pin run going through to the MB side. It will get done this week. But for some reason...I'm not looking forward to it. I've been looking forward to everything else.

No...I ruined one SAS>SATA breakout cable trying to figure out a way to customize it. But alas....it could not be done. So I bought some shorter ones...and I'm tinkering with best way to sleeve them right now.


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've got this big mental block on starting the 24 pin. I need to make it start two PSU's, as well as run the auto-shutdown cord for the AQ5. I'm going to try and keep all the double wires, and splices on the PSU side....and have only a clean 24 pin run going through to the MB side. It will get done this week. But for some reason...I'm not looking forward to it. I've been looking forward to everything else.
> No...I ruined one SAS>SATA breakout cable trying to figure out a way to customize it. But alas....it could not be done. So I bought some shorter ones...and I'm tinkering with best way to sleeve them right now.


I hear you on that mental block thing. Same problem here, compounded by having a Seasonic PSU.

What brand of SAS breakout are you using? I have two that were very easy to sleeve, not sure where I got them, but I'll try to track it down today.

Edited...try PC-Pitstop

http://www.pc-pitstop.com/sas_cables_adapters/F87H7D.asp


----------



## nateman_doo

I had a huge mental block for the longest staring at this board, but I think I had a breakthrough on just about everything.

CAD design of the VR block almost done.


----------



## nateman_doo

Best part... it has 4 points of contact


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I had a huge mental block for the longest staring at this board, but I think I had a breakthrough on just about everything.
> CAD design of the VR block almost done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Best part... it has 4 points of contact


Don't hold out on us. Pictures!


----------



## cpachris

For the SAS>SATA breakout cables....I tried a lot of different things. In the end...I'm not unhappy, but I may tinker more later. But for now...here is how I did the breakouts

I ordered some shorter cables. 18 inches was the shortest I could find. They came in red, and included the # of the cable down on the cable where I will sleeve it.



So....I pulled out the trusty label maker...



...and created some little bitty stickers to put up on the connector head.



Then I used some red and white electrical tape to cover the cable in the color sleeve I would be using. I also wrapped all 4 cables up together for about 2/3 of the cable.



With a lot of coaxing, I was able to get all 4 cables into one SATA sleeve (MDPC-X). It fits nice and snug, and should look clean coming off the Areca card. However, I'm not thrilled with the breakouts. The cable on the breakouts is much narrower than standard SATA cable, and its just about impossible to stretch the sleeve tight enough. It leaves some "puffy" slack, which I do not like. Also, because there is some slack....it is nearly impossible to secure the sleeve to the cable with just heatshrink. In the end, I melted some sleeve at the tip and compressed it so that there was a small area that was tight around the cable....and then used some superglue to secure a bond to the cable.

Also, for the heatshrink on the connector and where it separates into the breakouts...the shrink is too large. I only had either MDPC-X SATA sleeve (which would not fit) and some large 1.5 inch shrink....which doesn't contract very tight around anything. I need to order some shrink that is closer to 1 inch....and redo these.






Even if there are some things I would like to do to change them....they are much better looking now than if I had done nothing to them.

More later!


----------



## cpachris

I did the second SAS>SATA breakout in reverse color scheme.



Here is what they look like on the MB side. The Areca card is inbetween the two 690's, and you can see the large SAS end coming out with all 4 cables sleeved together as one.



And here is what is looks like on the PSU side....where the breakouts to the SATA ends occurs.



But for some reason...that 24pin cable is still not sleeving itself. I figure if I just keep putting it off...it will magically do it on its own.


----------



## Chokladkakan

I feel the white one looks far, far better due to the colour of the heat shrink.

Additionally, isn't the motherboard side a tad messy in general? The best sleeving in the world won't organise an unkempt tangle&#8230; I hope more is to come!


----------



## sortableturnip

I'm assuming that white heatshrink in the middle won't shrink anymore, even if you keep applying heat to it?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chokladkakan*
> 
> I feel the white one looks far, far better due to the colour of the heat shrink.
> Additionally, isn't the motherboard side a tad messy in general? The best sleeving in the world won't organise an unkempt tangle&#8230; I hope more is to come!


I like the white....but I like the crimson also. As mentioned several times I'm going to do some cable sewing once I'm doing with all of the wiring, which is what will help it look cleaner and neater. But in my defense...with 16 drives and six 8-pin connectors...I've got more cable to deal with than most builds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I'm assuming that white heatshrink in the middle won't shrink anymore, even if you keep applying heat to it?


Nope. It was huge to start with, and I've shrunk it to its max. I'll be getting some smaller shrink and will just cut off those parts, and then reshrink.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chokladkakan*
> 
> I feel the white one looks far, far better due to the colour of the heat shrink.
> Additionally, isn't the motherboard side a tad messy in general? The best sleeving in the world won't organise an unkempt tangle&#8230; I hope more is to come!


He mentioned before that he'll be doing some sewing and what not later on.


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'd take one now....but JennG made me clean up everything in the living room and dining room yesterday for a Scentsy party she was doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It had gotten pretty bad. I had banished everyone from the living room for almost 2 months now. But....it is nice to be able to see the floor again....and to be able to take a step without worrying you might be crushing a $1,000 component. I would guess you are starting to accumulate some boxes and piles of parts at this point. Yes?


It is kinda mind soothing to know your building habits are similar to normal people's.... just on a waaaaaaaaaaaaay larger scale. Somehow a mountain of hardware boxes unleashing an avalanche of plastic wrap through your living room comes to mind.









This 9.2 audio room you mentioned a few pages earlier sounds extremely tasty, I'd love to experience something like this one day or another but are there even any movies or other source material that goes beyond 5.1 or maybe even 7.1?

The center of our attention looks so small among all that furniture, yet this log is progressing so fast its almost insane. I just started building my own rig for a few days and suddenly this thread explodes into some family discussions and whatnot.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> This 9.2 audio room you mentioned a few pages earlier sounds extremely tasty, I'd love to experience something like this one day or another but are there even any movies or other source material that goes beyond 5.1 or maybe even 7.1?


There are lots of 7.1 encoded movies out there now. More and more common. For the extra two speakers....for me they are the front-height channels. At the moment, you won't find a disk encoded with these channels, but both Dolby and DTS make a decoder that creates virtual channels for either your front-height, or front-wide. They actually sound pretty good.

...and the .2 just means I'm running dual subwoofers. I don't think we'll ever see soundtracks encoded with two bass channels. It's really more of a way to make sure you fill all the spots in your room with the low frequencies.


----------



## sunn1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> There are lots of 7.1 encoded movies out there now. More and more common. For the extra two speakers....for me they are the front-height channels. At the moment, you won't find a disk encoded with these channels, but both Dolby and DTS both make a decoder that creates virtual channels for either your front-height, or front-wide. They actually sound pretty good.
> ...and the .2 just means I'm running dual subwoofers. I don't think we'll ever see soundtracks encoded with two bass channels. It's really more of a way to make sure you fill all the spots in your room with the low frequencies.


How powerfull are the amps to power all these? your build is coming on soo well, cant wait to see it when its done with some benchmarks and how tidy you can manage to get it with all the cables and pipes you will be using, will be hard but im sure i will see a few new tips and tricks along the way


----------



## Chokladkakan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> As mentioned several times I'm going to do some cable sewing once I'm doing with all of the wiring, which is what will help it look cleaner and neater. But in my defense...with 16 drives and six 8-pin connectors...I've got more cable to deal with than most builds.


Oh, certainly. I don't envy the amount of cables you've got to organise in the least and I cannot claim any sort of superior knowledge in the field regardless; I've never sleeved a cable in the first place. I apologise if my message came across as snotty.

That said, I'm not convinced sewing will remedy the situation so far as my own mind is concerned, though I definitely hope I am thoroughly mistaken in that regard!


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> With a lot of coaxing, I was able to get all 4 cables into one SATA sleeve (MDPC-X). It fits nice and snug, and should look clean coming off the Areca card. However, I'm not thrilled with the breakouts. The cable on the breakouts is much narrower than standard SATA cable, and its just about impossible to stretch the sleeve tight enough. It leaves some "puffy" slack, which I do not like. Also, because there is some slack....it is nearly impossible to secure the sleeve to the cable with just heatshrink. In the end, I melted some sleeve at the tip and compressed it so that there was a small area that was tight around the cable....and then used some superglue to secure a bond to the cable.
> !


Use a bit of cyanoacrylate glue to hold the cable down where you can't get it to hold with heat shrink, hold in place, then heat shrink over it. No more poofies!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> Use a bit of cyanoacrylate glue to hold the cable down where you can't get it to hold with heat shrink, hold in place, then heat shrink over it. No more poofies!


I had to look up what that was.







Do you like it better than the super glue I mentioned I used?

Securing the cable is not what will make the "poofies" go away. The breakout cable on the SAS>SATA is much narrower than a normal SATA cable. The sleeve is simply much bigger than the cable. You can't stretch it enough to make it tight over the smaller cable. I though about wrapping each of the breakout sections in 8 or 10 layers of tape....to build the size of the cable up. If I ever redo these completely, that is what I might try.


----------



## nateman_doo

Little off topic, but I just finished a re-design of my SRX block:
http://goo.gl/ix6dw

I will post the VR block for the ASrock board tomorrow. Pretty neet how I got 4 points of contact with only 2 holes on the board. I will leave you guys to ponder how I did that overnight


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Little off topic, but I just finished a re-design of my SRX block:
> http://goo.gl/ix6dw
> I will post the VR block for the ASrock board tomorrow. Pretty neet how I got 4 points of contact with only 2 holes on the board. I will leave you guys to ponder how I did that overnight


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I had to look up what that was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you like it better than the super glue I mentioned I used?
> Securing the cable is not what will make the "poofies" go away. The breakout cable on the SAS>SATA is much narrower than a normal SATA cable. The sleeve is simply much bigger than the cable. You can't stretch it enough to make it tight over the smaller cable. I though about wrapping each of the breakout sections in 8 or 10 layers of tape....to build the size of the cable up. If I ever redo these completely, that is what I might try.


Lol I failed at reading comprehension...oops.


----------



## derickwm

You've passed me in views









Lookin good though mate. Wish my build was at this level of completion, I need more nateman_doo action in mine.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You've passed me in views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin good though mate. Wish my build was at this level of completion, I need more nateman_doo action in mine.


^This^


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You've passed me in views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin good though mate. Wish my build was at this level of completion, I need more nateman_doo action in mine.


heh. I see your SR2 is cooled, but I didn't see an SRX block? my work internet connection isn't fast enough to go through 300(!) pages of your build. I hope to have this SRX block finished drafting today.

But I did promise the ASR11 VR block pics today. That will happen.


----------



## derickwm

I don't think the SR-X will be sticking around much longer... It doesn't really pertain to my interests too much. I was hoping by now EVGA would release some more bios updates but haven't in a while. I'll probably be sticking with Skulltrail, SR-2, and the Z9. That's enough to keep me busy for a while









Depending on the block EK releases for the Z9 I may be looking to get some work done. If not, maybe we could have some fun with my old GPUs


----------



## barkinos98

1- great going chris!
2-yay derick plans an update!


----------



## nateman_doo

As promised:










The block uses the same 2 factory holes, but also utilizes the CPU holes as well. Various spacers, or a spring can keep pressure on the block.


----------



## cpachris

I'm still not following the VRM attachment. How does it share holes with the CPU block? Would the CPU block mount on top or underneath the VRM block sharing the holes?


----------



## nateman_doo

first VRM block goes on, then CPU block goes on over it.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> first VRM block goes on, then CPU block goes on over it.


That will screw up most mounting systems screw length and pressure mechanisms.


----------



## tuffarts

I think he is up for fabricating/adapting a mount, considering he is about to build the blocks


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffarts*
> 
> I think he is up for fabricating/adapting a mount, considering he is about to build the blocks


The winner

Normally I use my own type of mounting systems instead of the factory. I have a variety of methods to accomplish things. Here is an example:


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> As promised:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The block uses the same 2 factory holes, but also utilizes the CPU holes as well. Various spacers, or a spring can keep pressure on the block.


Noice!









Have you worked out where the inlet/outlet will be on the chipset block?


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Noice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you worked out where the inlet/outlet will be on the chipset block?


Something hit me like a ton of bricks after staring at it, but in a good way. I could also use the almost naturally forming inlets by the PCI slots, but it would be dependent on you now HAVE to watercool your video card, and it depends on the thickness of gpu waterblocks. Although, if your cooling your chipset, your most likely going to have GPU waterblocks already... but one just never knows.

But as you see the picture they will be on the right sides, by the RAM.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm still not following the VRM attachment. How does it share holes with the CPU block? Would the CPU block mount on top or underneath the VRM block sharing the holes?


This is a Koolance block on the SRX board:



See that large gap of thread? Picture that thread going through the VR block. Then either a plastic spacer, or a spring keeping it down along with the CPU bolt.


----------



## cpachris

I think I get it. As long as the VRM block allows the CPU block to come down into contact with the IHS still. I'm assuming the VRM block will be very think at the CPU bolt hole section?


----------



## theseekeroffun

Should be fine with the Kryos mounting system.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Something hit me like a ton of bricks after staring at it, but in a good way. I could also use the almost naturally forming inlets by the PCI slots, but it would be dependent on you now HAVE to watercool your video card, and it depends on the thickness of gpu waterblocks. Although, if your cooling your chipset, your most likely going to have GPU waterblocks already... but one just never knows.
> But as you see the picture they will be on the right sides, by the RAM.


I thought about this too, but you wouldn't be able to tighten or clamp the hose because the video cards would have to already be in their slots and you cannot fit your hand between two PCBs even if they are only single-wide with a full PCI-E slot between them. What's more, if the water block took up only a single PCI-E slot, there would be exactly 3/4" between the block and the next PCB, which means your hose would be rubbing and pushing the cards if they had anything sticking out on the top of the PCB (like a back plate) or if the waterblock were slightly more than 1 PCI-E width.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Something hit me like a ton of bricks after staring at it, but in a good way. I could also use the almost naturally forming inlets by the PCI slots, but it would be dependent on you now HAVE to watercool your video card, and it depends on the thickness of gpu waterblocks. Although, if your cooling your chipset, your most likely going to have GPU waterblocks already... but one just never knows.
> But as you see the picture they will be on the right sides, by the RAM.


If you are thinking about that, I'm thinking my suggestion for the area between the first PCI-E slot and the CPU makes more sense. Especially if you are able to capitalize by using the mounting screw holes for the CPU block. And you wouldn't get any interference of having to go between graphics cards. All you'd have to be careful of is the molex power input for the PCI-slots located there.


----------



## sortableturnip

Is it possible to attach the two blocks together somehow...so there is only 1 inlet/outlet? Maybe like I've crudely drawn below?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Is it possible to attach the two blocks together somehow...so there is only 1 inlet/outlet? Maybe like I've crudely drawn below?


Full board block. Do et.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Wouldn't the molex plug get in the way?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Wouldn't the molex plug get in the way?


Probably...maybe the other way around between the cpu and memory slots?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Wouldn't the molex plug get in the way?


couldn't you go round the molex and have it go across the cpu holes like the vrm block



either the yellow route or the same thing with the blue route over the cpu holes (the smaller blue bit it a ms paint fail)


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

He could also used a raised pipe to transfer the water over components he doesn't want WCd by the block.


----------



## tuffarts

Watercool from Germany used to make some like this
They also so did with MOBO blocks as well


----------



## nateman_doo

Oye Vey... do you guys know how extra work that would be? just to avoid a single hose?


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Oye Vey... do you guys know how extra work that would be? just to avoid a single hose?


I wasn't trying to make it more work for you nateman...I was looking at it with the idea that you could avoid having the issue of where to place both the inlet/outlet on the chipset block plus allowing the water to flow across all the components.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Oye Vey... do you guys know how extra work that would be? just to avoid a single hose?


But its a full cover block?









Jk.


----------



## nateman_doo

It wouldn't be impossible, but you would require much more materials, or a larger overall sheet of copper. Drives costs up.


----------



## charlesquik

not to be rude but all that worth of beautiful hardware for surfing ocn..........this make me want to commit suicide


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charlesquik*
> 
> not to be rude but all that worth of beautiful hardware for surfing ocn..........this make me want to commit suicide


It has the opposite effect on me -- I wanna make sure I can amount to things in life so I can make enough money to do exactly this


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunn1e*
> 
> How powerfull are the amps to power all these?


Amps are the weakest link in the audio chain for me. Just using the receivers built-in amps. I think they are 140 watt/channel. But once I'm done with this build, I might spend some time on my media setup. Amps would be the first addition.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chokladkakan*
> 
> Oh, certainly. I don't envy the amount of cables you've got to organise in the least and I cannot claim any sort of superior knowledge in the field regardless; I've never sleeved a cable in the first place. I apologise if my message came across as snotty.
> That said, I'm not convinced sewing will remedy the situation so far as my own mind is concerned, though I definitely hope I am thoroughly mistaken in that regard!


No...I didn't take it as snotty at all. But I do think that sewing the sleeve together will make a world of difference. Promise me when I'm done you'll chime back in and judge it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> You've passed me in views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin good though mate. Wish my build was at this level of completion, I need more nateman_doo action in mine.


Are we racing?







And yes, nateman_doo action is fun to watch. Makes me want to buy a CNC machine. Hmmmmmmmm........

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffarts*
> 
> Watercool from Germany used to make some like this


That block looks cool. I hadn't seen one like that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Oye Vey... do you guys know how extra work that would be?


Oye Vey indeed. These guys ask for a lot. Careful Nate,....or they will have you doing a domino video with all of your SR-2 blocks.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charlesquik*
> 
> not to be rude but all that worth of beautiful hardware for surfing ocn..........this make me want to commit suicide


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> It has the opposite effect on me -- I wanna make sure I can amount to things in life so I can make enough money to do exactly this


Charles....my prayer for you is life. JackOfHearts...my prayer for you is success.


----------



## derickwm

Not particularly, I'm just teasing


----------



## Chokladkakan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> No...I didn't take it as snotty at all. But I do think that sewing the sleeve together will make a world of difference. Promise me when I'm done you'll chime back in and judge it.


Not to worry, I wouldn't stop watching this build unfold even if you wanted me to!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I need more nateman_doo action


----------



## nateman_doo

Everyone needs a lil _doo


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Everyone needs a lil _doo


Even I doo.

(460 2win WB ftw.)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Even I doo.


Who doo?


----------



## Citra

You doo?


----------



## derickwm

I doo!


----------



## meeps

i see we have some bowie action going on.....


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Who doo?


I doo need the doo to doo what the doo does best.

What now?


----------



## cpachris

Let him do his voo doo.


----------



## nateman_doo

oye vey








you guys crack me up.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

They don't think it be like it is, but it doo.


----------



## derickwm

I don't usually get custom water blocks, but when I doo it's from nateman.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I don't usually get some, but when I doo it's from nateman.


Do the doo!


----------



## derickwm

Oh my.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I don't usually get custom water blocks, but when I doo it's from nateman.


ha!
That will be sig'd


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I don't usually get custom water blocks, but when I doo it's from nateman.


You say this like custom blocks is a normal thing...


----------



## cpachris

This should be derick's new profile pic


----------



## derickwm

Hehe


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> This should be derick's new profile pic


Not a good idea to read in class. Im getting weird looks.


----------



## TPE-331

Right on Chris, I've got a ton of Dos XX in the beer fridge.







Your build continues to get sexier by the day.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Not a good idea to read in class. Im getting weird looks.


joy of getting weird looks because of laughing at things 2-3 people understand







too bad i do that too much.


----------



## conntick

Derick, I blame you completely for derailing this thread.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> This should be derick's new profile pic


HA! You guys are killing me. Thank god I have my own office, or the world would have heard me laugh.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Derick, I blame you completely for derailing this thread.


yes, for shame. all the prototype materials arrived. I am going to start on programming the tool paths shortly.


----------



## derickwm

Hey my build log is the king of derailed OT, I just thought I'd share the love


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Hey my build log is the king of derailed OT, I just thought I'd share the love


Are you seeking shelter in Chris's thread? He's about due for another update; though I'm not sure how much more time he can spend on his build before his family starts accusing him of neglect.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Are you seeking shelter in Chris's thread? He's about due for another update; though I'm not sure how much more time he can spend on his build before his family starts accusing him of neglect.


Aren't we Chris' family? I do feel neglected, it's been a few days since the last build update.


----------



## barkinos98

lol. he actually brings updates faster, but tbh this is funnier. but for OffT, 1M Thread is like a IRC







crap wrong thread :/


----------



## derickwm

Lol you guys complain about lack of updates every few days here. While over in my thread updates happen every couple o weeks


----------



## TheHarvman313

Yeah Derick I just can't read your thread anymore. I was off the board for a few days and had something over 300 OT posts to read!!!









I'll look at the pictures when you get it finished!









BTW that German water block was awesome!!!!


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Are you seeking shelter in Chris's thread? He's about due for another update; though I'm not sure how much more time he can spend on his build before his family starts accusing him of neglect.


I get that alllllll the time. Your always in your basement!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> yes, for shame. all the prototype materials arrived. I am going to start on programming the tool paths shortly.


Excellent! What are the prototypes going to be made from? Delrin? Aluminum? How long are you anticipating it will have to spin on your machine before it hatches?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> He's about due for another update; though I'm not sure how much more time he can spend on his build before his family starts accusing him of neglect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Aren't we Chris' family? I do feel neglected, it's been a few days since the last build update.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I get that alllllll the time. Your always in your basement!


Yeah, I lost a couple of days working a customer support ticket with Areca on my card. It stopped playing nice with my V4's. Ongoing issue. I'll update the thread on results once its resolved.

As for build updates...I'm in that spot in the build where I'm working on primarily cabling and sleeving. It doesn't make for exciting updates. But....I'll try and post some pictures of my work on the Aquacomputer PA2 wiring later today. I'm working on 12 custom length aquabus cables, and 12 molex power cables that will be spread across 2 power harnesses. Crimson and white, naturally.


----------



## nateman_doo

Its hard to say at the moment. I drill the initial holes, which bolts the material to my sacrificial plate, then screw it down (drilling and blind tapping operations) then bolt the raw stock to the plate. then insert various drill bits, and end mills to do each operation, getting finer and finer with the bits, but this is all after I have the tool paths programmed, and optimized.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Its hard to say at the moment. I drill the initial holes, which bolts the material to my sacrificial plate, then screw it down (drilling and blind tapping operations) then bolt the raw stock to the plate. then insert various drill bits, and end mills to do each operation, getting finer and finer with the bits, but this is all after I have the tool paths programmed, and optimized.


What type and size mill do you have?


----------



## nateman_doo

Currently I have an UBER modified X2 mill:
http://goo.gl/9VcFi

Its current state is completely different setup, but its the same mill, just transplanted in a different enclosure.

The mill I am currently working on DWARFS this one. My X2 has a working envelope of 7.5 x 11.5" (X/Y) The new build is 18x18 with linear rails. No more awful back-lashing dovetails. If only I had more time. I just watched some concrete be poured so I learned some tips, so that is the next stage of that construction.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Currently I have an UBER modified X2 mill:
> http://goo.gl/9VcFi
> Its current state is completely different setup, but its the same mill, just transplanted in a different enclosure.
> The mill I am currently working on DWARFS this one. My X2 has a working envelope of 7.5 x 11.5" (X/Y) The new build is 18x18 with linear rails. No more awful back-lashing dovetails. If only I had more time. I just watched some concrete be poured so I learned some tips, so that is the next stage of that construction.


I am using this ONE, but its not CNC, just DRO.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I get that alllllll the time. Your always in your basement!


You tell her you're making money!









Just don't tell her you're playing with your tools


----------



## cpachris

Ok. Here are some pictures of me doing the Aquabus cables today. Not real exciting. But I love how they came out. I'm making 10 of these for the PA2 to PA2 daisychaining that I'm doing. I'll make a couple of extra just for kicks, so....12 in total.

I commandeered the kitchen for today's activities. That lets me see the TV while working. Will see what JennG has to say about that later tonight.

I like to do things in stations, so the first station was cutting the wire. I chose the center of the island...and went about cutting 36 four inch pieces of 22 awg wire. Four inches gives me just the right length to daisy chain the PA2's in the custom bracket I've showed you that I'm working on. I'm doing all of the wires in red to eliminate any color bleedthrough when I sleeve it in crimson MDPC-X later. I also chose 22 awg just because I think its a little easier to work with than the really thin 26 awg.





I'm one-handing these pictures...so they are not the best. But I was too lazy to get out the tripod for these. Plus..they really aren't that exciting anyway. Next up is the "stripping" station (leaving myself open on that one...) and I chose the right side of the island for this station. Just took a few millimeters off of both ends of each wire. So for those counting....that's 72 "stripping actions". I like that.





Next up is the crimping station. I chose right of the sink for this station. Always makes me feel manly to pull out my MDPC crimper. It's a great tool. I also go ahead and pull the fan pins off of their strip and put them in a bowl ready for easy reaching. Using the 22 awg makes these fan pins give a real solid crimp. They are sturdy...and going no where. So for those counting....that's 72 crimped fan pins...and on to the next station.






Next up is the "Fan Connector" station. Clearly that one needed to be to the left of the stove. Since I was using all red wire, I did need to be careful to keep straight which wire was what. So after putting the first connector on, I went ahead and used a sharpie to make some identifying dots on the other pins, that would let me know what hole in the connector they should go in, ...in case they got turned around inside the sleeving.





Next up was the sleeve cutting station, ....and it just made sense to set this one up on the left hand side of the island. So I grabbed my big role of crimson MDPC-X and cut twelve 3.5 inch sections of sleeve. I was also careful to slightly melt the ends with a lighter, because pushing 3 fan pins through a section of sleeve can cause it to shred if you are not careful.




Then I took my newly cut sleeves back over to the "Fan Connector" station, and slid a piece of sleeve over each of the open ends of the connectors. After the sleeve was on, I found my identifying "sharpie" marks and put the other fan connector on .




Next up is the "Heatshrinking" station, and clearly it made sense to set that up to the right of the stove. First I cut some MDPC-X SATA shrink into 5/8" pieces. Then came my trusty light purple heatgun to handle the heatshrink. Any vestiges of manliness that remained from using my crimper....disappeared when using the light purple heat gun. I've kept it out of the pictures to avoid additional embarassment.





All done!



And much nicer looking than the standard Aquacomputer cables. Comparison shot below:



This picture has my 12 aquabus cables on the left, and 12 of the standard aquabus cables on the right. As you can see, I've cut down on some clutter by custom making these. And I would encourage everyone to give it a try. These are just fan cables that have two female connectors. Nothing tough about them.



That will have to suffice for today. Taking the kids to the GREAT STATE FAIR OF OKLAHOMA tonight. I don't know what your fairs are like...but here in Oklahoma....it is the greatest collection of one-eyed, tatooed, toothless, limping freaks....that ever gets assembled. Quite honestly....I don't know where these poeple disappear to once the fair is gone. Because you simply don't see these people out in every day life. And the appropriate attire is shredded jeans, too-small concert t-shirts, and one of those wallets with the long chain that attaches it to your belt. Doo-rags are also popular. And for extra points....you can roll a package of cigarettes up in your sleeve...and perhaps have a skoal can ring worn on your back pocket. To top it all off...you walk around with an absurdly large turkey leg in one hand....and 40 oz beer in the other. Ah yes.....the Oklahoma State Fair. Wish me luck.


----------



## conntick

Hopefully this update will restore peace to this thread! Excellent job on the sleeveing


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ok. Here are some pictures of me doing the Aquabus cables today. Not real exciting. But I love how they came out. I'm making 10 of these for the PA2 to PA2 daisychaining that I'm doing. I'll make a couple of extra just for kicks, so....12 in total.
> I commandeered the kitchen for today's activities. That lets me see the TV while working. Will see what JennG has to say about that later tonight.
> I like to do things in stations, so the first station was cutting the wire. I chose the center of the island...and went about cutting 36 four inch pieces of 22 awg wire. Four inches gives me just the right length to daisy chain the PA2's in the custom bracket I've showed you that I'm working on. I'm doing all of the wires in red to eliminate any color bleedthrough when I sleeve it in crimson MDPC-X later. I also chose 22 awg just because I think its a little easier to work with than the really thin 26 awg.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: 56k!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm one-handing these pictures...so they are not the best. But I was too lazy to get out the tripod for these. Plus..they really aren't that exciting anyway. Next up is the "stripping" station (leaving myself open on that one...) and I chose the right side of the island for this station. Just took a few millimeters off of both ends of each wire. So for those counting....that's 72 "stripping actions". I like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the crimping station. I chose right of the sink for this station. Always makes me feel manly to pull out my MDPC crimper. It's a great tool. I also go ahead and pull the fan pins off of their strip and put them in a bowl ready for easy reaching. Using the 22 awg makes these fan pins give a real solid crimp. They are sturdy...and going no where. So for those counting....that's 72 crimped fan pins...and on to the next station.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the "Fan Connector" station. Clearly that one needed to be to the left of the stove. Since I was using all red wire, I did need to be careful to keep straight which wire was what. So after putting the first connector on, I went ahead and used a sharpie to make some identifying dots on the other pins, that would let me know what hole in the connector they should go in, ...in case they got turned around inside the sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the sleeve cutting station, ....and it just made sense to set this one up on the left hand side of the island. So I grabbed my big role of crimson MDPC-X and cut twelve 3.5 inch sections of sleeve. I was also careful to slightly melt the ends with a lighter, because pushing 3 fan pins through a section of sleeve can cause it to shred if you are not careful.
> 
> 
> Then I took my newly cut sleeves back over to the "Fan Connector" station, and slid a piece of sleeve over each of the open ends of the connectors. After the sleeve was on, I found my identifying "sharpie" marks and put the other fan connector on .
> 
> 
> Next up is the "Heatshrinking" station, and clearly it made sense to set that up to the right of the stove. First I cut some MDPC-X SATA shrink into 5/8" pieces. Then came my trusty light purple heatgun to handle the heatshrink. Any vestiges of manliness that remained from using my crimper....disappeared when using the light purple heat gun. I've kept it out of the pictures to avoid additional embarassment.
> 
> 
> 
> All done!
> 
> And much nicer looking than the standard Aquacomputer cables. Comparison shot below:
> 
> This picture has my 12 aquabus cables on the left, and 12 of the standard aquabus cables on the right. As you can see, I've cut down on some clutter by custom making these. And I would encourage everyone to give it a try. These are just fan cables that have two female connectors. Nothing tough about them.
> 
> 
> 
> That will have to suffice for today. Taking the kids to the GREAT STATE FAIR OF OKLAHOMA tonight. I don't know what your fairs are like...but here in Oklahoma....it is the greatest collection of one-eyed, tatooed, toothless, limping freaks....that ever gets assembled. Quite honestly....I don't know where these poeple disappear to once the fair is gone. Because you simply don't see these people out in every day life. And the appropriate attire is shredded jeans, too-small concert t-shirts, and one of those wallets with the long chain that attaches it to your belt. Doo-rags are also popular. And for extra points....you can roll a package of cigarettes up in your sleeve...and perhaps have a skoal can ring worn on your back pocket. To top it all off...you walk around with an absurdly large turkey leg in one hand....and 40 oz beer in the other. Ah yes.....the Oklahoma State Fair. Wish me luck.


Epic, but I don't see the point?


----------



## Systemlord

Hay *cpachris*, in my experience using the SATA heat shrink on my Gentle Typoons wiring I found that the SATA shrink didn't squeeze hard enough on the MDPC-X sleeve to keep it tight. What's your secret? Oh and have fun at your state fair, win your kids a stuffed animal.


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Epic, but I don't see the point?


The point of making new cables is to avoid the reams of extra wire hanging down using the supplied cables. Or maybe I missed YOUR point (see what I did there?)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Hopefully this update will restore peace to this thread! Excellent job on the sleeveing


Thank you sir.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Hay *cpachris*, in my experience using the SATA heat shrink on my Gentle Typoons wiring I found that the SATA shrink didn't squeeze hard enough on the MDPC-X sleeve to keep it tight. What's your secret? Oh and have fun at your state fair, win your kids a stuffed animal.


Superglue. I should have shown that in the pictures...but I used it on every one of these. I totally agree with you...the SATA shrink will not hold on small sleeve if its pulled tight. By the way...how did your splices come out? Done with that PSU yet?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Epic, but I don't see the point?


Guess I'm unsure of your point also. But regardless....please go back and either delete the pics in your response, or put them in spoilers. This thread is long enough without that kind of stuff. Thank you in advance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> The point of making new cables is to avoid the reams of extra wire hanging down using the supplied cables. Or maybe I missed YOUR point (see what I did there?)


Are your hands as raw as mine Reglar? I've got battle wounds, scrapes, scars and super glue....all to evidence the cabling and sleeving I've done over the last month. Hope they return to normal at some point.


----------



## cpachris

nateman_doo.....I've started a thread for the Asrock Extreme11 block, where I consolidated all of the name of the interested parties. Looks like about 5 definites right now...and a lot of maybes. Here is the link:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1305449/asrock-extreme11-custom-waterblock/0_20

Feel free to post in this thread still....because everybody likes a little doo. But not everyone that has expressed interest in a block follows this thread....so you might keep that one updated.


----------



## Depran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That will have to suffice for today. Taking the kids to the GREAT STATE FAIR OF OKLAHOMA tonight. I don't know what your fairs are like...but here in Oklahoma....it is the greatest collection of one-eyed, tatooed, toothless, limping freaks....that ever gets assembled. Quite honestly....I don't know where these poeple disappear to once the fair is gone. Because you simply don't see these people out in every day life. And the appropriate attire is shredded jeans, too-small concert t-shirts, and one of those wallets with the long chain that attaches it to your belt. Doo-rags are also popular. And for extra points....you can roll a package of cigarettes up in your sleeve...and perhaps have a skoal can ring worn on your back pocket. To top it all off...you walk around with an absurdly large turkey leg in one hand....and 40 oz beer in the other. Ah yes.....the Oklahoma State Fair. Wish me luck.


You go should go to the iowa state fair... make the Oklahoma state fair visitors look like Brad Pitt and Angelina....


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That will have to suffice for today. Taking the kids to the GREAT STATE FAIR OF OKLAHOMA tonight. I don't know what your fairs are like...but here in Oklahoma....it is the greatest collection of one-eyed, tatooed, toothless, limping freaks....that ever gets assembled. Quite honestly....I don't know where these poeple disappear to once the fair is gone. Because you simply don't see these people out in every day life. And the appropriate attire is shredded jeans, too-small concert t-shirts, and one of those wallets with the long chain that attaches it to your belt. Doo-rags are also popular. And for extra points....you can roll a package of cigarettes up in your sleeve...and perhaps have a skoal can ring worn on your back pocket. To top it all off...you walk around with an absurdly large turkey leg in one hand....and 40 oz beer in the other. Ah yes.....the Oklahoma State Fair. Wish me luck.


We'll be going to OK for the week of the 15th. Will be *nowhere* near OKC.









Also, sick job on the cables. I'm mostly lurking. Enjoying the work, but lurking.


----------



## mandrix

So have you fired up the board and put it through it's paces? Not much here at OCN about that board.
I'm extremely interested as am thinking seriously about 2011. I've got a house full of Gigabyte boards but I think I'm going to jump ship for 2011 as their X79 offerings don't impress me.
Should I make the jump, and get that board, I will certainly be interested in the blocks Nateman is working on. I just keep waiting for some user feedback before I actually get a board this go around.


----------



## sortableturnip

Great job on the wires! Personally, if I'm doing a lot of wire stripping, I like to use the heavy duty adjustable strippers:


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Guess I'm unsure of your point also. But regardless....please go back and either delete the pics in your response, or put them in spoilers. This thread is long enough without that kind of stuff. Thank you in advance.


What good will like 3-5 inches of 3pin pwm cable do? Are your fans that local?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> What good will like 3-5 inches of 3pin pwm cable do? Are your fans that local?


Foot in mouth?
Quote:


> Ok. Here are some pictures of me doing the Aquabus cables today.


The PA2s are maybe 2 inches apart?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Foot in mouth?
> The PA2s are maybe 2 inches apart?


Ok I asked a question no need to be an ass about it.

I'm an air cooler Idk what this aquabus over complicated ness is.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Depran*
> 
> You go should go to the iowa state fair... make the Oklahoma state fair visitors look like Brad Pitt and Angelina....


Lol. I think my crowd would have given your crowd a run for their money tonight. We were in fine form.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> We'll be going to OK for the week of the 15th. Will be *nowhere* near OKC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, sick job on the cables. I'm mostly lurking. Enjoying the work, but lurking.


Tulsa? Thanks for the kind words.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> So have you fired up the board and put it through it's paces? Not much here at OCN about that board.
> I'm extremely interested as am thinking seriously about 2011. I've got a house full of Gigabyte boards but I think I'm going to jump ship for 2011 as their X79 offerings don't impress me.
> Should I make the jump, and get that board, I will certainly be interested in the blocks Nateman is working on. I just keep waiting for some user feedback before I actually get a board this go around.


I love the board....but haven't done any overclocking with it yet. I love it for the features, because it is exactly what I needed out of this build. Will probably try some overclocking with it next week. I can tell you that I love the UEFI...but I'm coming from an X58 environment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Great job on the wires! Personally, if I'm doing a lot of wire stripping, I like to use the heavy duty adjustable strippers:


Now I feel even less manly.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> What good will like 3-5 inches of 3pin pwm cable do? Are your fans that local?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> I'm an air cooler Idk what this aquabus over complicated ness is.


The aquabus cables are ways to allow communication among a string of components so that the Aquaero 5 can control them. Think of the Aquaero 5 kind of like a computerized fan controller. It uses sensor values (temperature, flow rate, etc.) to set power curves for fans and pumps. So it can turn them down when the system is cool, and up when the system needs extra cooling. Some of my components will sit very close together...which made the long standard cables pretty messy in the case. Appreciate the cleanup on the pictures. Thanks.


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Are your hands as raw as mine Reglar? I've got battle wounds, scrapes, scars and super glue....all to evidence the cabling and sleeving I've done over the last month. Hope they return to normal at some point.


I keep waiting for my fingers to toughen up but nothing yet







.


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Tulsa? Thanks for the kind words.


Nope. Durant, through Hugo, onwards to Idabel.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Nope. Durant, through Hugo, onwards to Idabel.


Ah yes, I forgot. If you stop in Hugo, say hello to my good friend Billy Perrin. In Idabel, say hello to my good friend Jim Campbell at the Sooner Insurance Agency.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Great job on the wires! Personally, if I'm doing a lot of wire stripping, I like to use the heavy duty adjustable strippers:


Oh where do you buy those strippers, brand?

Question about the Aquaero 5 (I have one), I noticed there are only one plug-in for USB and Aquabus. Well what do you when you have more than one device, there's only one port for each the USB and Aquabus?


----------



## 3930K

I have some £5 wire strippers. I strip more wires using alligator clips over those PoSs on 2 or less cm wires.


----------



## Chokladkakan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Oh where do you buy those strippers, brand?


This sort of thing ought to do the job.


----------



## mandrix

@ cpachris Thanks I'll look forward to you clocking the board and your feedback.

Speaking of strippers, (insert joke here), have you guys found any that can be set for a specified length of "stripping"?
Mine I bought at Lowes and have a piece that you have to line up for the specific wire size, which is somewhat slow. Would like some that will consistently strip just the length I need for pins so I don't have to eyeball each one.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Speaking of strippers, (insert joke here), have you guys found any that can be set for a specified length of "stripping"?


Yeah, they're mostly pay per minute type of thing here AFAIK.

And now that we got the bad joke out of the way, I think I've seen those at my pop's workplace. I'll see if I can get there and take a look at them.


----------



## prathik7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> @ cpachris Thanks I'll look forward to you clocking the board and your feedback.
> Speaking of strippers, (insert joke here), have you guys found any that can be set for a specified length of "stripping"?
> Mine I bought at Lowes and have a piece that you have to line up for the specific wire size, which is somewhat slow. Would like some that will consistently strip just the length I need for pins so I don't have to eyeball each one.


try these
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-2078300-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=zg_bs_553390_1


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> @ cpachris Thanks I'll look forward to you clocking the board and your feedback.
> Speaking of strippers, (insert joke here), have you guys found any that can be set for a specified length of "stripping"?
> Mine I bought at Lowes and have a piece that you have to line up for the specific wire size, which is somewhat slow. Would like some that will consistently strip just the length I need for pins so I don't have to eyeball each one.


Knipex universal wire stripper, or equivalent. Expect to pay $50 or more for a good one


----------



## Big Elf

+1 for Knipex, I like *these*


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> Knipex universal wire stripper, or equivalent. Expect to pay $50 or more for a good one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> +1 for Knipex, I like *these*


I've tried both and the self-adjusting stripper worked out better. You could strip 2 wires at the same time with them. Plus, the self-adapting stripper's wire measuring guide always moved when you inserted the wire...and yes the stripper was too loose


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prathik7*
> 
> try these
> http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-2078300-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=zg_bs_553390_1


Nice, and thanks!
I'm not going to pay $90 for wire strippers, guys, so these should be better than what I currently have. I am not the BBBB guy.


----------



## j3st3r

Quote:


> This machine will be used primarily for surfing OCN.


Dear god. You just spent thousands of dollars to be able to surf the web. Also dual GTX 690s...?

Brb smashing my face into the wall. I would sub but I feel your computer is an absolute waste on for you.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j3st3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> This machine will be used primarily for surfing OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> Dear god. You just spent thousands of dollars to be able to surf the web. Also dual GTX 690s...?
> 
> Brb smashing my face into the wall. I would sub but I feel your computer is an absolute waste on for you.
Click to expand...

u7y8himiy huyhg 7h ugttttttttttttttttttttttytguh6 tg6huuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu uji k8ijk8 tgfy6 tgf5 666666666666666666u87 i97ui9yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyybv5 f ert 6fffff n78 uiy9uiyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyybvr5tf ert 6fffff

*facekeyboard*


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j3st3r*
> 
> Dear god. You just spent thousands of dollars to be able to surf the web. Also dual GTX 690s...?
> Brb smashing my face into the wall. I would sub but I feel your computer is an absolute waste on for you.


When I first built my $2000 computer all I did on it was play minecraft and surf the web and played FPS on my xbox. I eventually realized that this was pointless, I even debated selling my PC and building a lower end rig but then I decided to do it the other way around and got rid of my xbox and bought the games I played on xbox for PC sans Halo: Reach unfortunately.


----------



## j3st3r

Lol he buys dual GTX 690's when:
Quote:


> Gaming? Yeah, maybe a little...but that's not my primary thing.


Everyone point. Everyone point and laugh.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j3st3r*
> 
> Lol he buys dual GTX 690's when:
> Everyone point. Everyone point and laugh.


Go away.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j3st3r*
> 
> Lol he buys dual GTX 690's when:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Gaming? Yeah, maybe a little...but that's not my primary thing.
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone point. Everyone point and laugh.
Click to expand...

bvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvyujkfccccccccccccyjjjjjkkkkkkkkkkkkyfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff6btgbgh

When he games he WILL max the games, and inject 64x AA.


----------



## conntick

Sheesh! All you guys hating on cpachris for making a >$15000 web browsing machine need an attitude adjustment. Seriously, it's a selfless act. He's spending massive amounts of money just so everyone on OCN can watch one of the coolest buildlogs ever.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Some of what Chris says is tongue and cheek. If you have followed along or read the entire log, his first hobby his photography, video and massive storage needs. He is merely having fun and enjoying the fruits of his labor. I can remember numerous people giving me noise about three loops and cooling my HDD's in my last build. This is about having fun and being extreme.
I have said this many times; PEOPLE buy what they want, not what they need. If people bought what they needed, Ferrari would not exist!


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Sheesh! All you guys hating on cpachris for making a >$15000 web browsing machine need an attitude adjustment. Seriously, it's a selfless act. He's spending massive amounts of money just so everyone on OCN can watch one of the coolest buildlogs ever.


This.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Question about the Aquaero 5 (I have one), I noticed there are only one plug-in for USB and Aquabus. Well what do you when you have more than one device, there's only one port for each the USB and Aquabus?


There are actually two aquabus ports on all of the PA2's....and you daisychain them. So...I have 6 PA2's connected to each of my AQ5's. I use the aquabus to go AQ5>PA2>PA2>PA2>PA2>PA2>PA2. Then each of the PA2's can be used to power devices, along with the 4 built in fan channels.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Speaking of strippers, (insert joke here), have you guys found any that can be set for a specified length of "stripping"? Would like some that will consistently strip just the length I need ..... so I don't have to eyeball each one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Oh where do you buy those strippers.....?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I think I've seen those (strippers) at my pop's workplace. I'll see if I can get there and take a look at them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I've tried both and the self-adjusting stripper worked out better. You could strip 2 .....at the same time with them. Plus, the self-adapting stripper's .....moved when you inserted


It's too easy. I won't even try.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j3st3r*
> 
> Dear god. You just spent thousands of dollars to be able to surf the web. Also dual GTX 690s...?
> Brb smashing my face into the wall. I would sub but I feel your computer is an absolute waste on for you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j3st3r*
> 
> Lol he buys dual GTX 690's when:
> Everyone point. Everyone point and laugh.


I actually really feel sorry for this guy if he can't read my opening post and understand its intended be a joke. Sure, its a little subtle.....but unless you're riding the short bus to school, you should be able to distinguish the humor. Perhaps your meds could be adjusted, or something.


----------



## mandrix

Went and ordered those Irwin strippers linked earlier and some el-cheapo Parts Express no name that looked cool. Hey, for $3...... also found a reducer I'm hoping will fit my heat gun, so I can heat the shrink instead of everything in a 2 inch radius.








Also got the Akasa PROSLIM SATA cables mentioned earlier in the thread. Very cool, I can size them instead of slop hanging out the side of the machine.

Anyway I mention all this because this thread has been a great resource for a variety of pc related things.
That's what is so good about this and others' builds, they often provide some very good info, and cpachris -and others- have done a great job of disseminating useful information. That and the sheer fun factor make this build a great resource and a must read in my book.

Or to quote one of my favorite Robert B. Parker characters: It do, don't it?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> That's what is so good about this and others' builds, they often provide some very good info, and cpachris -and others- have done a great job of disseminating useful information. That and the sheer fun factor make this build a great resource and a must read in my book.
> Or to quote one of my favorite Robert B. Parker characters: It do, don't it?


Thanks. And the appropriate line in this thread would be...."It *doo*, don't it?


----------



## nateman_doo

I just finished a hastily done Delrin prototype. I am actually speechless how happy I am with it. Weeks of meticulous design work paid off tonight. Since its moments before 4 am... I think I am throwing in the towel for the evening. I actually amaze myself sometimes. pictures in the AM.


----------



## cpachris

Can't wait for pictures! Saw the video in the other thread. Nice.


----------



## falcon2099

So I had sadly neglected this thread for about a week or so and had to catch up on about 20 pages. If you'll recall when I sub'd to the thread my GF thinks cpachris is insane for doing this build... I think she's coming around. She just said the end result of the Aquabus cables are "cute".


----------



## nateman_doo

http://www.overclock.net/t/1305449/asrock-extreme11-custom-waterblock/10#post_18167776


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1305449/asrock-extreme11-custom-waterblock/10#post_18167776


That's what I'm talkin bout.


----------



## sortableturnip

EPIC


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2099*
> 
> So I had sadly neglected this thread for about a week or so and had to catch up on about 20 pages. If you'll recall when I sub'd to the thread my GF thinks cpachris is insane for doing this build... I think she's coming around. She just said the end result of the Aquabus cables are "cute".


I hate to break it t you but that is the female equivalent of 'no, you don't look fat in that'


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2099*
> 
> So I had sadly neglected this thread for about a week or so and had to catch up on about 20 pages. If you'll recall when I sub'd to the thread my GF thinks cpachris is insane for doing this build... I think she's coming around. She just said the end result of the Aquabus cables are "cute".


The BBBB. Winning over the hearts and minds of girlfriends everywhere.









Have you showed her Reglar's pink and black build? She would probably love that one. It makes me want to do a little pink and white build for JennG. It could be a box that receives the hand-me-down parts from my build as I upgrade.


----------



## Hattifnatten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1305449/asrock-extreme11-custom-waterblock/10#post_18167776


Oh god, gotta find some papertowels now


----------



## JennG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The BBBB. Winning over the hearts and minds of girlfriends everywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you showed her Reglar's pink and black build? She would probably love that one. It makes me want to do a little pink and white build for JennG. It could be a box that receives the hand-me-down parts from my build as I upgrade.


I would really like an Orange and Black one- (Go Pokes) but I will settle for a cute little Pink and white one.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> I would really like an Orange and Black one- (Go Pokes) but I will settle for a cute little Pink and white one.


I think Derick and Chris should work together to figure out a design. Between the two of them, you should end up with a cute little orange and black one.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> I would really like an Orange and Black one- (Go Pokes) but I will settle for a cute little Pink and white one.


A build for the wife...MAKE IT HAPPEN!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> A build for the wife...MAKE IT HAPPEN!


She hasn't put a ring on my finger yet.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> She hasn't put a ring on my finger yet.


Doesn't it go the other way around?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Doesn't it go the other way around?


Don't tell her that.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> He hasn't given you a ring yet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> No! can you believe it? An incredibly understanding woman who not only is supportive but is encouraging in your desires for your hobbies. What more could a guy want?


----
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> She hasn't put a ring on my finger yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Doesn't it go the other way around?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Don't tell her that.


I sense a catch22.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Don't tell her that.


My family would kill me if they found out my girlfriend had to propose to me idk about you though.


----------



## Electrocutor

Maybe he just needs some encouragement.


----------



## cpachris

I've always thought the cellist at weddings should get to crowd surf


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Superglue. I should have shown that in the pictures...but I used it on every one of these. I totally agree with you...the SATA shrink will not hold on small sleeve if its pulled tight. By the way...how did your splices come out? Done with that PSU yet?


I ordered 100 feet of 16 gauge wire for the Y-splicing because the larger OD of the wire makes it a LOT easier to pull tight the sleeving, kind how like how you built up your wire with the superglue. When sleeving the 18 gauge wire you have pull hard to get the sleeving really tight, the 16 gauge wire more closely matches the ID of the sleeving much better requiring less pull force to get.

I took a break on the splicing job because after finishing the single wire sleeving on every harness, my fingers look like a rock climbers hands from all of the hard pinching and heat gun causing my finger tips to be 100% numb!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Maybe he just needs some discouragement.


Fixed


----------



## nateman_doo

Man, I walk down in my basement to do some work, come back, and this thread is back derailed. Can't leave you guys alone for a second.

Second prototype will begin soon.


----------



## Quest99

The pressure of getting engaged.









Lets see a full copper of that waterblock. Isn't that what tou are going to pre order with Nateman?

Should cost an arm.....but this is BBBB......one PC to rule them all...


----------



## SniperTeamTango

moar pics!!!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Some of what Chris says is tongue and cheek. If you have followed along or read the entire log, his first hobby his photography, video and massive storage needs. He is merely having fun and enjoying the fruits of his labor. I can remember numerous people giving me noise about three loops and cooling my HDD's in my last build. This is about having fun and being extreme.
> I have said this many times; PEOPLE buy what they want, not what they need. If people bought what they needed, Ferrari would not exist!


QFT

Also, it's nice to hop in and see the progress you've been making chris, looks great


----------



## cpachris

For those that were having a hard time visualizing the need for the "cute" little crimson aquabus cables, here is a shot of them mounted. This is the PSU side, up above the motherboard tray.



That aluminum bracket is what I made to mount the PA2's in a different orientation than the standard AquaComputer mount puts them. By flipping them 90 degrees, it allows me to do do straight wiring for the molex connections. The PA2's don't need anything but the 12 volt wires, so all I need is two wires running down the line for each of them. Keeps it very clean. I then terminate it with a 6 pin plug directly at the PSU. The aquabus cables are the ones at the very top, and you simply daisy chain the devices together. You can see a longer one that runs from the first PA2 to the AQ5 unit itself.

The shot below has more of an angle, and you can see the blocks I used to mount the bracket. They give me the spacing necessary so that the PA2's are directly below the fans on the top of the case. And since they are hollow rectangles, I'll be able to route cables through the mounting brackets...behind the aluminum plate that mounts the PA2's.



I'll be powdercoating the aluminum strip and mounting blocks white, when I do my final batch of stuff, so they will match the case exactly. There will be one identical to this on the MB side of the case also....but the mounting blocks are 2.5 inches instead of 1.5 inches....which is necessary to center the PA2's underneath the fans. The case is wider on that side.

Another nice thing about this method is that it keeps all of the connections very easily accessible. But they are still hidden from the window view when the case doors are closed.

Working on my first power harness for the radiator fans today.


----------



## Quest99

Very clean indeed! How is that custom plate holding onto the case? Very cool custom plate btw....I must have missed it, but looks like you made some legs for it?

Are you worried that the heat generated by the PAs is going directly into your upper chamber rads?

Cheers!


----------



## theseekeroffun

A very ingenious idea!


----------



## SniperTeamTango

This is no longer a gaming pc this is a work of art between several badasses.


----------



## nateman_doo

Something tells me that the copper block won't match the white, black, and maroon. Do you want yours black matte coated, or are you putting various copper highlights in there?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Something tells me that the copper block won't match the white, black, and maroon. Do you want yours black matte coated, or are you putting various copper highlights in there?


No white delrin top option?


----------



## nateman_doo

The top is going to be 1/8" thick. Not much mass or stiffness behind it. I will certainly try plastic types, but the block was designed to be copper.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Something tells me that the copper block won't match the white, black, and maroon. Do you want yours black matte coated, or are you putting various copper highlights in there?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> No white delrin top option?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> The top is going to be 1/8" thick. Not much mass or stiffness behind it. I will certainly try plastic types, but the block was designed to be copper.


I've actually got a ton of copper in the build. Everything from the screws to the fan grills to the AMS radiators. Working on a few other copper additions also. So I'd just have to see what the copper looks like, but copper would probably work.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> For those that were having a hard time visualizing the need for the "cute" little crimson aquabus cables, here is a shot of them mounted. This is the PSU side, up above the motherboard tray.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> {snip}
> I'll be powdercoating the aluminum strip and mounting blocks white, when I do my final batch of stuff, so they will match the case exactly.


Looking good! It looks a lot better with only two sleeved power wires than the 4 unsleeved white ones did.

It is going to be a challenge to make all the connections into the PAs look as neat, I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I am sure you will manage it.

Plus, powder coating - how could I doubt you?









Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic


That 24pin _still_ hasn't sleeved itself? At this rate you might have to do it yourself...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Very clean indeed! How is that custom plate holding onto the case? Very cool custom plate btw....I must have missed it, but looks like you made some legs for it?
> Are you worried that the heat generated by the PAs is going directly into your upper chamber rads?
> Cheers!


The plate has rectangular aluminum blocks underneath it, and the blocks are bolted to the middle frame of the case with a single 1/4-20 bolt through the middle. This was my original attempt that I showed awhile back:



Spoiler: Version 1 of the Blocks









The only problem with this approach was it was VERY difficult to tighten the bolts on one side of the case while holding the nut on the other. So...version 2 of the blocks included this large cutout that allows me to get a socket head screwdriver through the large hole to grab either the bolt or the nut, and tighten away. And it still leaves room on both sides of the larger hole for smaller holes on both sides to attach the late to the blocks.




Before I send them for powdercoating, I'll spend some time with my grinder working on the edges. Both the blocks and the plate are 1/8" aluminum, so they are strong and do not flex. With the 1/4-20 bolts...they are sturdy and just feel like part of the case frame. Doesn't feel like an add-on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> A very ingenious idea!


Thank you kindly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> This is no longer a gaming pc this is a work of art between several badasses.


Never was a gaming PC,....just a PC that could game. But much appreciated anyway.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Looking good! It looks a lot better with only two sleeved power wires than the 4 unsleeved white ones did.
> It is going to be a challenge to make all the connections into the PAs look as neat, I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I am sure you will manage it.
> Plus, powder coating - how could I doubt you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> That 24pin _still_ hasn't sleeved itself? At this rate you might have to do it yourself...


Thanks! And yes...every morning when I wake up...the 24pin is still sitting there staring at me. Not sure why its not transforming by itself. Maybe I need to give it some motivation by leaving one of Lutro's videos playing in the background while I sleep.


----------



## Reglar

Great job on the PA2's, like how you split the power cords into pairs for sleeving. Since mine are hidden I just slapped a bunch of electrical tape around mine; I have a feeling you have a lot more patience than I


----------



## barkinos98

no stalker here, but she uses a mac amirite chris? the caption of her picture gives it away


----------



## SniperTeamTango

@Nate when I order my 2win block can it have a white top then?


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> @Nate when I order my 2win block can it have a white top then?


whatever you can find. how white depends on the materials. I was going to make that top have some thickness to it.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Great job on the PA2's, like how you split the power cords into pairs for sleeving. Since mine are hidden I just slapped a bunch of electrical tape around mine; I have a feeling you have a lot more patience than I


Thanks Reglar. I'm happy with how they are coming along so far.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> no stalker here, but she uses a mac amirite chris? the caption of her picture gives it away


She might have setup her account on my kids Mac. But she has a PC at home. She's a PC kind of girl!


----------



## cpachris

I finished 4 of the 8 connections in my first radiator fan power harness...and needed to take a break. So....I decided to hook them up to a PowerAdjust2 and play with undervolting them and what it does to the PA2 temperature. With 4 fans running at full speed, the PA2 stays fairly cool at about 38.5 Celsius. If I use the Aquaero to undervolt the PA2 to about 4 volts, which spins the fans at right around 400 rpm instead of 1,250 rpm, ....the temperature starts steadily climbing on the PA2 to about 44.2 Celsius. That's not bad. I think I've read that the PA2's have thermal protection that kicks in and stops undervolting the fans once the temperature reaches 85 Celsius. So that makes me think I should be able to run 8 fans without an issue. I'll finish that first power harness up tonight and do the same thing again.

The graphs available in the information pages of the Aquaero are very slick. You can overlay different graphs on top of each other...so if you wanted to see the impact of slowing down your fans on the temperatures of the PA2....you can do it all in one graph by overlaying them and adjusting opacity. You can watch live as temperatures increase and rpm's decrease. Neat stuff.


----------



## nateman_doo

I require input:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1305449/asrock-extreme11-custom-waterblock/40#post_18178207


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I finished 4 of the 8 connections in my first radiator fan power harness...and needed to take a break. So....I decided to hook them up to a PowerAdjust2 and play with undervolting them and what it does to the PA2 temperature. With 4 fans running at full speed, the PA2 stays fairly cool at about 38.5 Celsius. If I use the Aquaero to undervolt the PA2 to about 4 volts, which spins the fans at right around 400 rpm instead of 1,250 rpm, ....the temperature starts steadily climbing on the PA2 to about 44.2 Celsius. That's not bad. I think I've read that the PA2's have thermal protection that kicks in and stops undervolting the fans once the temperature reaches 85 Celsius. So that makes me think I should be able to run 8 fans without an issue. I'll finish that first power harness up tonight and do the same thing again.
> The graphs available in the information pages of the Aquaero are very slick. You can overlay different graphs on top of each other...so if you wanted to see the impact of slowing down your fans on the temperatures of the PA2....you can do it all in one graph by overlaying them and adjusting opacity. You can watch live as temperatures increase and rpm's decrease. Neat stuff.


I run 8 fans (AP-15s) off each channel on my AQ 5 and the temps are in high-50s without any active cooling. PA-2s are about 60 as well. This is before cleaning up the mess of wiring that could only have been hurting cooling.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> I run 8 fans (AP-15s) off each channel on my AQ 5 and the temps are in high-50s without any active cooling. PA-2s are about 60 as well. This is before cleaning up the mess of wiring that could only have been hurting cooling.


Good to know. I had read one thread where the guy was seeing the thermal protection kick-in with just 3 AP-15's if he undervolted them. Didn't make sense based on what some other people had reported, but it scared me. Maybe he had a bad unit. Glad to know you are not having any of those issues.

And......

I guess I won't either. I ran all 8 fans for a few hours last night, undervolted to 3.7 volts, which spun the fans at 375 rpm. The PA2 temperature climbed from about 36 to about 52 Celsius and then stayed steady. 52 isn't bad at all. Now...once I put some load onto surrounding PA2's....I guess the temperature could climb higher. But...I also don't have the fans spinning yet that are right above the PA2's. So I don't think I'm going to have any problem.


----------



## Aximous

In martin's review of the AQ5 IIRC I read that he had to ran 5 d5's on one channel to get the thermal protection kick in. I'm running 4-5 fans / channel on mine with basically no airflow around the heatsink and have no problem with heat.

edit: here's the review, it was 2 d5's at 8v equivalent to around 26 gt-ap15's


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aximous*
> 
> In martin's review of the AQ5 IIRC I read that he had to ran 5 d5's on one channel to get the thermal protection kick in. I'm running 4-5 fans / channel on mine with basically no airflow around the heatsink and have no problem with heat.
> edit: here's the review, it was 5 d5's at 8v equivalent to around 26 gt-ap15's


It was 2 D5's....not 5. And he wasn't running them on the same channel. He put just 1 D5 on one channel and 1 D5 on a separate channel. And he ended up breaking the unit in the end.









But regardless....I'm happy that my 8 fans do not seem to be causing an issue.


----------



## Aximous

That was a typo, sorry bout that







The point was that 8 fans per channel won't be an issue at all.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aximous*
> 
> That was a typo, sorry bout that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The point was that 8 fans per channel won't be an issue at all.


What temps are your fan amplifiers?


----------



## Aximous

1st is running 4,6V 0,15A @57C
2nd 3,2V 0,06A @57C
3rd 6V 0,18A @52C
4th is running PWM @51C
AQ CPU @39C

Ambient is 27C. Thermal protection kicks in at 95C so I guess these are completely fine, at least I'm feeling comfortable with them. There is a GT few centimeters below the AQ blowing below it and the AQ is in my top 5,25" bay so if there is any airflow that's from that fan but I doubt that it gives any airflow that way worth mentioning.

Fans are all GT-AP15s and one 200mm CM fan on channel 3.

BTW really awesome and inspirational build, wish I had the funds and time to make something comparable.


----------



## vangsfreaken

well... i have now read 194 pages of this, and you are just amazing! subscribed!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> well... i have now read 194 pages of this, and you are just amazing! subscribed!


welcome vangsfreaken! 3rd post....almost as sweet as a first poster.


----------



## mosi

Woo, can't keep up with this thread!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> There are lots of 7.1 encoded movies out there now. More and more common. For the extra two speakers....for me they are the front-height channels. At the moment, you won't find a disk encoded with these channels, but both Dolby and DTS make a decoder that creates virtual channels for either your front-height, or front-wide. They actually sound pretty good.
> ...and the .2 just means I'm running dual subwoofers. I don't think we'll ever see soundtracks encoded with two bass channels. It's really more of a way to make sure you fill all the spots in your room with the low frequencies.


Front-height channels meaning you have them at a different height than the regular front speakers? Sounds like a pretty complicated setup for encoding on the fly. So far I've only tried Dolby PLII and it wasn't overly impressive. Having .1 and thus having inconsistent bass was something I've experienced too. My former gaming room was strictly rectangular so bass was basically subtracted to almost zero at the seats and added up to something unbelievably strong close to the walls. Also down the hallway and halfway up the staircase the bass was terrific!









Have you ever tried to actually hook up all your PA2's via Aquabus to see if all get recognized by the AQ5? I've got no idea how much are supported but for MPS pressure sensors there are apparently just 4 addresses you can pick from. My res has one built in and I'm trying to get it to work via Aquabus. I hope your PA2's have a larger address pool to pick from.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Have you ever tried to actually hook up all your PA2's via Aquabus to see if all get recognized by the AQ5? I've got no idea how much are supported but for MPS pressure sensors there are apparently just 4 addresses you can pick from. My res has one built in and I'm trying to get it to work via Aquabus. I hope your PA2's have a larger address pool to pick from.


I've only hooked up 6 PA2's to each of my AQ5's. But I've read that 8 are now either possible...or will be possible in the next update. Several things point to being able to do 8. The aquabus address can be between 50-57 (which is eight slots), and the default info screens include one that shows details for fans 9, 10, 11 and 12. After the 4 built-in....that would leave 8 more spots. So I'll be 8 would work. I really don't need 8...but I might try and see if it works.

Post some pics of you Aquacomputer gear!


----------



## JaRi

FINALLY... done reading all 195 pages... 30 new pages since i started reading :O

damn this build is amazing







i wish i was as patient as you seem to be, and had the funds as you do :O

sub'ed for sure!


----------



## Electrocutor

Just wait until he does the builds for the girlfriend and kids.


----------



## JaRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Just wait until he does the builds for the girlfriend and kids.


im scared...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaRi*
> 
> FINALLY... done reading all 195 pages... 30 new pages since i started reading :O
> damn this build is amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wish i was as patient as you seem to be, and had the funds as you do :O
> sub'ed for sure!


Welcome JaRi! Glad to have you along...but lets keep the language PG13 and family friendly. Thanks!


----------



## JaRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Welcome JaRi! Glad to have you along...but lets keep the language PG13 and family friendly. Thanks!


i wrote something wrong ? sorry my english isn't the best in the world, english is only my 2nd language


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> welcome vangsfreaken! 3rd post....almost as sweet as a first poster.


this would have been my first post if i had seen it a little earlier...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I was not aware damn was not PG13.


We've only got 10 big rules to live by....and that's breaking one of them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaRi*
> 
> i wrote something wrong ? sorry my english isn't the best in the world, english is only my 2nd language


Don't worry about it. I know you meant well.


----------



## 3930K

It's mine too, just living here in the UK helps you learn a lot faster.

I've seen it in a few PG UK movies, byt afaik one got upgraded to 12A for that.


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've only hooked up 6 PA2's to each of my AQ5's. But I've read that 8 are now either possible...or will be possible in the next update. Several things point to being able to do 8. The aquabus address can be between 50-57 (which is eight slots), and the default info screens include one that shows details for fans 9, 10, 11 and 12. After the 4 built-in....that would leave 8 more spots. So I'll be 8 would work. I really don't need 8...but I might try and see if it works.
> Post some pics of you Aquacomputer gear!


So you're probably in luck then. I didn't look up the address space for the PA2 but the MPS are from 12 to 15. You know, there's a saying that goes "more because more"? So, you're sure you don't need more?







This aquabus really is a nice thing though. Hooking up all that stuff to the AQ5 and having the whole monitor & control thing running totally independent from the main rig really is a great thing.

*shameless advert*
I'm keeping a little build log over in the water cooling section but you asked for pictures so here goes








***


The XT is rather pretty with only the touch buttons. Also they work quite well, better than those on all of the stuff in the kitchen. Hopefully they restock the black faceplate soon as the normal front of my Cosmos S is black mesh.


The flow sensor turned out a little freestyle but I forgot to order the right cable somehow. Will order some with the faceplate. Also all that cabling in the background sorely needs tidying. I'm way too lazy to start sleeving though.


And the Aqualis res. The fountain effect is really pretty and the sound of water somehow is mind soothing. This was shot immediately after a refill so there are cartloads of bubbles. After some hours it really gets quieter a lot! The fill level thingy has some issues for me, as excess air pressure is built up when the loop heats up. It can be worked around though I'm talking to Aqua currently, hoping they have some solution.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

cleaned....
and some should read this
http://www.overclock.net/a/terms-of-service


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*
> 
> cleaned....
> and some should read this
> http://www.overclock.net/a/terms-of-service


...I really must have missed something.


----------



## Castscythe

Finally finished reading every...single...post...









Looks terrific =D, I cant wait to see more updates!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*
> 
> cleaned....
> and some should read this
> http://www.overclock.net/a/terms-of-service


much appreciated XtremeCuztoms.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castscythe*
> 
> Finally finished reading every...single...post...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks terrific =D, I cant wait to see more updates!


Welcome Castscythe!


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*
> 
> cleaned....
> and some should read this
> http://www.overclock.net/a/terms-of-service


Umm, did I miss something? cleaned sounds good though








Hey this is awesome, I just fell out of bed and there were *only* 4 replies. I really should check back more constantly!


----------



## mandrix

This thread inspired me to check out Case Labs again, and it happened to coincide with the preorder of the SM8. Anyway I don't have room for a monster case since I have 3 rigs in close proximity so I preordered the CL SM8. Looking forward to lots of up close CL modular goodness. XL window, reversed mobo, perfect!

So to satisfy my craving for CL and other goodies please post more pics!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> This thread inspired me to check out Case Labs again, and it happened to coincide with the preorder of the SM8. Anyway I don't have room for a monster case since I have 3 rigs in close proximity so I preordered the CL SM8. Looking forward to lots of up close CL modular goodness. XL window, reversed mobo, perfect!
> So to satisfy my craving for CL and other goodies please post more pics!


Im in the same boat (since we have back to back posts in CaseLAbs Forums I figured I add my two cents) SM8 appeals to me for the same reason I don't that much space for Rad's and overkill but I still want overkill look and the option. since CL is so modular and even the small SM8 (smaller then 800D) can have the options to be almost as large as you want with pedestals and extended tops It seems like it will be the only case I will ever need. I was planning to go into a 810 switch but this case has it all with the option to add more if need be. Going to put 480 up top and 240 down low and go from there.

Thanks to CPAChris.


----------



## grizzlyblunting

holy guacamole


----------



## Engzel

Hey cpachris!

First post.

Been following your build and I must say it's nothing short of amazing.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> This thread inspired me to check out Case Labs again, and it happened to coincide with the preorder of the SM8. Anyway I don't have room for a monster case since I have 3 rigs in close proximity so I preordered the CL SM8. Looking forward to lots of up close CL modular goodness. XL window, reversed mobo, perfect!
> So to satisfy my craving for CL and other goodies please post more pics!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Im in the same boat (since we have back to back posts in CaseLAbs Forums I figured I add my two cents) SM8 appeals to me for the same reason I don't that much space for Rad's and overkill but I still want overkill look and the option. since CL is so modular and even the small SM8 (smaller then 800D) can have the options to be almost as large as you want with pedestals and extended tops It seems like it will be the only case I will ever need. I was planning to go into a 810 switch but this case has it all with the option to add more if need be. Going to put 480 up top and 240 down low and go from there.
> Thanks to CPAChris.


Thanks guys. I may choose that SM8 for my next build. Looks pretty sweet.

I've had probably 20+ people tell me that they were influenced towards a Caselabs case after seeing this build log. Perhaps I should ask Jim for a job.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizzlyblunting*
> 
> holy guacamole


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Engzel*
> 
> Hey cpachris!
> First post.
> Been following your build and I must say it's nothing short of amazing.


Welcome, grizzlyblunting and Engzel!


----------



## cpachris

Anyone with some memory error and/or troubleshooting expertise? I started a new thread to get some help with a problem I'm having. Didn't want to junk this one up too bad with my memory issues:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1307995/need-some-advice-on-memory-errors-64gb-of-corsair-dominator-gt-1866/0_20


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks guys. I may choose that SM8 for my next build. Looks pretty sweet.
> I've had probably 20+ people tell me that they were influenced towards a Caselabs case after seeing this build log. Perhaps I should ask Jim for a job.


Nah... MM for me









Although in hind-site, I could have built the case myself, its just like a borg cube.


----------



## barkinos98

i think if to be modded, any case is beautiful. without modding or even basics like painting, any caselabs (well except the SM) looks like metal cubes imo. not so appealing to the end user, if that person only knows how to use word excel and outlook and still uses internet explorer 7 (hope dad doesnt read this, he bought a HP beats edition desktop for work because "it looks good" and he "needed something fast".


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks guys. I may choose that SM8 for my next build. Looks pretty sweet.
> I've had probably 20+ people tell me that they were influenced towards a Caselabs case after seeing this build log. Perhaps I should ask Jim for a job.


At the very least, he could give you a referral bonus


----------



## grizzlyblunting

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Welcome, grizzlyblunting and Engzel!


In awe of the SSD array


----------



## TPE-331

Hey Chris, just jumpin on gettin my daily fill of your log.







I've got Marine Corps survival training this weekend, will miss reading your log until Monday. I'm going to crawl through the woods , make my own camp fire and munch whatever kind of bugs and insects I can scrounge up!







Have a good one man!


----------



## tjr2121

I subbed around page 3 and I am still following this epic masterpiece of a build log.


----------



## nateman_doo

Getting there...


----------



## Citra

Oh dam...

New pants.


----------



## Quest99

Looking really Awesome Nateman. Can we see it on the actual board?


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> 
> Getting there...


That is pretty sweet!!!! when i finally get my board I do believe I will have to get me one of your blocks, of course I'll need to see some actual performance tests first to see the real world gains.


----------



## TheHarvman313

That block looks great Nateman!!!


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Looking really Awesome Nateman. Can we see it on the actual board?


IF you must


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizzlyblunting*
> 
> holy guacamole


:O Datbeef


----------



## mosi

Hmm, will you have more inlets outlets on that block? I'd guess the two other corners would get very little flow, no? That aside, that thing looks gorgeous!


----------



## mandrix

Beautiful, nateman.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

I hope to be as badass as nate with CnC gear in my lifetime.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Hmm, will you have more inlets outlets on that block? I'd guess the two other corners would get very little flow, no? That aside, that thing looks gorgeous!


One of them should be ok because the water will create a back-eddy, but the other is likely an issue. It will just have to rely on the copper heat transfer I guess because the components underneath do not allow a channel to be there.


----------



## cpachris

Just goofing around....but that's not a bad score.


----------



## CrestfallenDes

@cpachris,
I joined OCN just so i could comment on this page to tell you how crazy and amazing this build is, and that i am looking forward to the finished product!









Also @ Nateman,
You should definitely consider making your own custom case line!
you'd have a ton of great promotional phrases in your arsenal. I'm thinking embossed case stickers saying "Do the Doo" or "Who crafts the highest quality prestiege PC chassis'? Nateman Doo."


----------



## SniperTeamTango

I'd buy a nate case.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> One of them should be ok because the water will create a back-eddy, but the other is likely an issue. It will just have to rely on the copper heat transfer I guess because the components underneath do not allow a channel to be there.


One day I could hog out a giant clear plexi top, and we can see what the flow looks like...with my daughters glitter like I did here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jmy42Y0eks&feature=relmfu


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrestfallenDes*
> 
> @ Nateman,
> You should definitely consider making your own custom case line!
> you'd have a ton of great promotional phrases in your arsenal. I'm thinking embossed case stickers saying "Do the Doo" or "Who crafts the highest quality prestiege PC chassis'? Nateman Doo."


heh... i have a loooong way to go yet I have to finish my large CNC build before any of that becomes an option.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Can I call dibs on the first 2win waterblock? I wanna get some doo action going.

That is a really awesome trick I'm gonna use that when our coolant systems fail in our rapid prototyper. Thanks!


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Can I call dibs on the first 2win waterblock? I wanna get some doo action going.
> That is a really awesome trick I'm gonna use that when our coolant systems fail in our rapid prototyper. Thanks!


Can't tell you how many projects I have lined up... but I it WILL get done! I just can't believe no one else has done it before?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Can't tell you how many projects I have lined up... but I it WILL get done! I just can't believe no one else has done it before?


I took a swing at it, got about halfway through the cads and realized "I have NO IDEA what I'm doing."


----------



## nateman_doo

Wait, are we talking about the same thing?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Wait, are we talking about the same thing?


As long as we're talking about using CnC mills to make waterblocks, yes.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> IF you must
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dat custom milling









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Just goofing around....but that's not a bad score.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not bad, not bad at all.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> One of them should be ok because the water will create a back-eddy, but the other is likely an issue. It will just have to rely on the copper heat transfer I guess because the components underneath do not allow a channel to be there.


What if you switch the inlet and outlet...


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> What if you switch the inlet and outlet...


I was thinking of the same thing. The way I was going to configure my water loop was to go from the CPU to the voltage regulator block, and then from that the the SB block with the inlet being the port near the CPU, and then from the port near the USB3 headers to the graphics cards. If that's not going to work optimally, I can redesign my intended loop to fit. It just won't look as nice and neat. C'est la vive!


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> I was thinking of the same thing. The way I was going to configure my water loop was to go from the CPU to the voltage regulator block, and then from that the the SB block with the inlet being the port near the CPU, and then from the port near the USB3 headers to the graphics cards. If that's not going to work optimally, I can redesign my intended loop to fit. It just won't look as nice and neat. C'est la vive!


If you want those holes where you pictured, then your all set to go. I am still trying the beveled holes. I have an 16.6° degree bevel so far using a 3/8 top.


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> One day I could hog out a giant clear plexi top, and we can see what the flow looks like...with my daughters glitter like I did here:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jmy42Y0eks&feature=relmfu


Judging from the loading time proxtube had to reroute me through some lonely cellphone in the middle of the namib desert but that glitter sure looks rad







Seeing how water really flows in thoses blocks is fascinating!
What's under this one lonely corner of the MB block anyway? I mean, is lots of heat generated there so little flow would be an issue?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Just goofing around....but that's not a bad score.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: what the...


Ye gods...... am I the only one who finds this "scoring lower than you should?" mildly amusing? Is that score somewhere in the Top 100 even? Can't really get the results out of their search page.
On a side note, your goofing around pretty much doubles what my little precious here is capable of and you probably didn't even start overclocking it to the brim.








Why do I suddenly feel so insignificant...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Ye gods...... am I the only one who finds this "scoring lower than you should?" mildly amusing? Is that score somewhere in the Top 100 even? Can't really get the results out of their search page.
> On a side note, your goofing around pretty much doubles what my little precious here is capable of and you probably didn't even start overclocking it to the brim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why do I suddenly feel so insignificant...


No...definitely not top 100. In the Hall of Fame results...they only have one 2x 690 system even in the top 20 scores. Most of the top 20 is 4x 680's. The best 2x 690 score in the Hall of Fame is a 27,663....and he set it using a 5ghz CPU. There are a few that are higher in the results section...not sure why they don't show up in Hall of Fame. So I don't expect to be up there yet. Don't want to do much overclocking until I get my memory stable and start the water cooling.

To crack the Top 20 for 2x 690 scores....it looks like you pretty much have to be running at 5ghz, as well as have your card overclocked. Even when you drop down to the Top 100 690 scores, most of the submissions have CPU between 4.8 and 5.0 ghz. Just a lot of really nice systems out there.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> What's under this one lonely corner of the MB block anyway? I mean, is lots of heat generated there so little flow would be an issue?


A PLX PEX 8747. They're supposed to average 8 watts during normal use, so it shouldn't be too bad.


----------



## linkdiablo

Milestone time: 2000th post of the log!

Nice score on 3DMark ... I'm still sporting a Q6600 and an upgraded GPU (8800GTX to GTX285), no question I don't go anywhere near your "unfinished" computer.

Keep at it!


----------



## 3930K

2K1!


----------



## barkinos98

2K2!! lol, but chris like always this is going awesome.

ps. i like this build a tad more than derick's


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> 2K2!! lol, but chris like always this is going awesome.
> 
> ps. i like this build a tad more than derick's


A tad?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> 2K2!! lol, but chris like always this is going awesome.
> ps. i like this build a tad more than derick's


What did you say???


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> A tad?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> What did you say???


calm down. we all had those questions when we were kids, "whats infinity plus 1". its one of those CASES (lol) where derick's level of awesomeness for her log is the infinity, and yours is like infinity +1


----------



## sortableturnip

too bad no one has figured out a way to have that glitter stay in the loop without clogging everything up...with some uv light that would look awesome


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> too bad no one has figured out a way to have that glitter stay in the loop without clogging everything up...with some uv light that would look awesome


^This oh so very much this^









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> No...definitely not top 100. In the Hall of Fame results...they only have one 2x 690 system even in the top 20 scores. Most of the top 20 is 4x 680's. The best 2x 690 score in the Hall of Fame is a 27,663....and he set it using a 5ghz CPU. There are a few that are higher in the results section...not sure why they don't show up in Hall of Fame. So I don't expect to be up there yet. Don't want to do much overclocking until I get my memory stable and start the water cooling.
> To crack the Top 20 for 2x 690 scores....it looks like you pretty much have to be running at 5ghz, as well as have your card overclocked. Even when you drop down to the Top 100 690 scores, most of the submissions have CPU between 4.8 and 5.0 ghz. Just a lot of really nice systems out there.


So we have to be patient and see what you can squeeze out your build later then and get entertained by the general awesome in the meantime eh?








I wouldn't be surprised if the top 100 held quite some LN2 or phase change rigs just made for this one suicide run.


----------



## grizzlyblunting

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> :O Datbeef


12 hour smoked brisket...

Datwaterblock









Any info on storage performance? I'm interested in how these massive raid configurations will work


----------



## jlprasadreddy

Chris

You are doing a great Build here, i found this thread on Friday, and since then i have spent every moment i have got to go through the 2000 posts.

keep it going... eagerly waiting to see this build completed.

JLP


----------



## mosi

I just stumbled upon this chart showing 8 PA2s connected to one AQ5. Maybe you're in luck cpachris


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizzlyblunting*
> 
> In awe of the SSD array


I'll post some benchmarks when done. The early results were phenomenal, and then I hit some snags. Customer service telling me that the card doesn't play friendly with V4's...even though I had it running smoothly at first. While tyring a few things to eliminate other potential sources of problems, I found my memory error issues, and have been trying to solve that before digging back into the raid card issue. I'll get it all working harmoniously in the end.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Hey Chris, just jumpin on gettin my daily fill of your log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got Marine Corps survival training this weekend, will miss reading your log until Monday. I'm going to crawl through the woods , make my own camp fire and munch whatever kind of bugs and insects I can scrounge up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good one man!


Slow on the updates while I'm troubleshooting my memory issues....but hang in there. I'll get to posting again soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjr2121*
> 
> I subbed around page 3 and I am still following this epic masterpiece of a build log.


Appreciate the kind words! I promise to get it finished within the next 30 days or so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> I hope to be as badass as nate with CnC gear in my lifetime.


Don't we all?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrestfallenDes*
> 
> @cpachris,
> I joined OCN just so i could comment on this page to tell you how crazy and amazing this build is, and that i am looking forward to the finished product!


Thanks! And stick with me....I'll finish it soon. And there will be LOTS of pictures of finished project, along with benchmarks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Milestone time: 2000th post of the log!
> Nice score on 3DMark ... I'm still sporting a Q6600 and an upgraded GPU (8800GTX to GTX285), no question I don't go anywhere near your "unfinished" computer.
> Keep at it!


2k! Hooray!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 2K1!


Not as exciting.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> 2K2!! lol, but chris like always this is going awesome.


Even less newsworthy.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlprasadreddy*
> 
> Chris
> You are doing a great Build here, i found this thread on Friday, and since then i have spent every moment i have got to go through the 2000 posts.
> keep it going... eagerly waiting to see this build completed.
> JLP


Takes awhile to get caught up at this point! Glad you have joined...and I'm as eager as everyone to get it finished.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> I just stumbled upon this chart showing 8 PA2s connected to one AQ5. Maybe you're in luck cpachris


Good to know! If I ever need more than the 12 I have right now (6 on each AQ5), I could pretty easily keep my existing mounting system, and just cut an aluminum strip a few inches longer to accomodate additional units.


Spoiler: Six PA2's on a bracket!


----------



## Hattifnatten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll post some benchmarks when done.


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Good to know! If I ever need more than the 12 I have right now (6 on each AQ5), I could pretty easily keep my existing mounting system, and just cut an aluminum strip a few inches longer to accomodate additional units.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Six PA2's on a bracket!


These 12 PA2s.. what were they meant for again? Fans, Pumps & Lights? just returned from the public pool for a chillout evening swim and the vast number is slowly "sinking in"


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Sorry if you've already posted this, but it's a long thread to trawl through (but reading a lot of it with interest) - I was wondering what you are estimating your total spend at the end of all this to be? I guess it's maybe got to the "don't ask" point.

Outstanding build though - love the extent you've gone to with cable customisation and such like, it makes a real difference.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> These 12 PA2s.. what were they meant for again? Fans, Pumps & Lights? just returned from the public pool for a chillout evening swim and the vast number is slowly "sinking in"


"sinking in". da-dump. rimshot!









PA1 - Pump 1
PA2 - Pump 2
PA3 - Pump 3
PA4 - Pump 4
PA5 - 8 fans in pull on top 480's
PA6 - 8 fans in push on top 480's
PA7 - 8 fans in pull on bottom 480's
PA8 - 8 fans in push on bottom 480's
PA9 - 2 fans in pull on 280
PA10 - 2 fans in push on 280
PA11 - 3 fans in push on left AMS 360
PA12 - 3 fans in push on right AMS 360

Or at least that is the general idea right now. That leaves 5 fans at the rear of the case for exhaust (one 120 and 4 baby fans), and between 2 and 4 fans in the bottom of the pedestal. I'll use the AQ5 fan channels to power these most likely.

I know it sounds like an awful lot....but when I initially made the decision to only run fans at real low speeds for silence....the logical counter balance was to get more radiators. So even though I have lots of radiators, each of them will probably not be as effective as those run by someone using fast fans. So I need more....for the same cooling. Once you get up to 7 radiators...it simply requires a LOT of fans, ....and a lot of pumps. That's why I need all of the PA2's....because I do want to be able to dynamically control all the fans and pumps. I'll use my FC8 to control case lighting.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BorisTheSpider*
> 
> I was wondering what you are estimating your total *spend* at the end of all this to be?


I'll end up *spending*............a lot of time doing something that I love to do.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll end up *spending*............a lot of time doing something that I love to do.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*


(elvis voice) thank you. thank you very much.


----------



## mosi

Oh oh oh just recalled the fan domino, now it makes sense sagin. How could I forget


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll end up *spending*............a lot of time doing something that I love to do.


LOL. Well, I guess that's the important thing.

By the way, I also found the PSUs - beautiful.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll end up *spending*............a lot of time doing something that I love to do.


I approve of this attitude.


----------



## TPE-331

Yes yes yes! Finally able get back online and check out your log Chris. I'm starting to realize that your log is the only thing I'm reading here on OCN.







It is addicting, very addicting.







Looking forward to more updates.


----------



## cpachris

I'm flattered by whoever nominated my build for the Mod of the Month award for September, ....but I'm going to decline the nomination this month. I really think I'll be substantially done in 30 days....which makes next month a better time to have my build log in shape and fairly finalized. If its nominated again next month, I'll humbly accept. Thanks.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm flattered by whoever nominated my build for the Mod of the Month award for September, ....but I'm going to decline the nomination this month. I really think I'll be substantially done in 30 days....which makes next month a better time to have my build log in shape and fairly finalized. If its nominated again next month, I'll humbly accept. Thanks.


You don't have to have it finished fyi. Just so long as the build quality is evident, which is pretty damn obvious.


----------



## cpachris

Understood. But I'd really like to have a good set of "finished" shots for people to look at. Especially if the voting draws in a few people that haven't been following the build. Gives me a target date!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Understood. But I'd really like to have a good set of "finished" shots for people to look at. Especially if the voting draws in a few people that haven't been following the build. Gives me a target date!


I see.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I really think I'll be substantially done in 30 days....


You may take a bit longer.. Cause you probably will need one of these to call it completed:









Check out the thread for the rest


----------



## nvidiaftw12




----------



## Saurian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


Very cool That psu color is something else!


----------



## prathik7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm flattered by whoever nominated my build for the Mod of the Month award for September, ....but I'm going to decline the nomination this month. I really think I'll be substantially done in 30 days....which makes next month a better time to have my build log in shape and fairly finalized. If its nominated again next month, I'll humbly accept. Thanks.


nooo.....i really thought u r ready.....


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> You may take a bit longer.. Cause you probably will need one of these to call it completed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Nate's Sweet Custom Waterblock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the thread for the rest


Looking very nice my friend. Is it too early to make a claim for "the Most Beautiful Motherboard Waterblock in the World"? This may be it. Can't wait to see it all shiny copper'y.

You haven't yet confessed how long you think these will take to finish....but if its more than 30 days, I'll probably pick up one of the mips blocks in the interim. But I'll still get one of yours also. I've got two of these boards, so I'll test both blocks and report back on the temps.

But if I were you...I'd throw out a target date soon on completion. The mips block is not very expensive and will siphon off some potential buyers from you if they don't know what kind of date range you are thinking about.

Is 60 days doable?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> I approve of this attitude.


Thanks. This has been nothing but fun for me. There are some days where I can spend hours just playing with ideas in my head. The possibilities are still endless for future mods. But I do understand how some people can reach burnout. I happen to be at a point in my life where I'm not working this year....and that makes spending massive amounts of time on this doable. If I was trying to squeeze it into my post-work hours....along with my kids....then it might quickly get shoved to the side.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Yes yes yes! Finally able get back online and check out your log Chris. I'm starting to realize that your log is the only thing I'm reading here on OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is addicting, very addicting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to more updates.


I always appreciate your posts TPE-331! Hope you didn't eat too many bugs this weekend.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurian*
> 
> Very cool That psu color is something else!


Thanks! Did you see these?


Spoiler: The Most Beautiful PSU in the World!


----------



## miahallen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> My girlfriend.....


Cute!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> OP:


Huh








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> Unlimited Budget....


Oh, I see









LOL, couldn't help myself....awesome build


----------



## mandrix

Hey Chris, how much can you run off the Aquero/ PA2's? At some point in my SM8 build I'm going with the Aquaero Pro, I need to power 21 fans and a D5, eventually 1 or 2 flow meters. I do have a fan controller to help until I can add 1 or more PA2's. I plan to add the water block to the Aquaero.
Reason for all the fans is a pedestal with 2x480's and a 240 inside + case fans.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Understood. But I'd really like to have a good set of "finished" shots for people to look at. Especially if the voting draws in a few people that haven't been following the build. Gives me a target date!


You know I've been following this for a long time now....so I have all the patience to wait and see this thing finished up. When it is done, rest assured you've got my vote when you feel it's ready for MOTM.


----------



## braindeadmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Hey Chris, how much can you run off the Aquero/ PA2's? At some point in my SM8 build I'm going with the Aquaero Pro, I need to power 21 fans and a D5, eventually 1 or 2 flow meters. I do have a fan controller to help until I can add 1 or more PA2's. I plan to add the water block to the Aquaero.
> Reason for all the fans is a pedestal with 2x480's and a 240 inside + case fans.


Depends on how much current the fans draw. The AQ 5 can handle 1.65 A per channel, 5 amps total. Each PA2 can handle 4 Amps.

A single AP-15 Gentle Typhoon draws 0.083 Amps, so you could run 20 off one channel in theory....I have routinely run 8 off each channel of mine with no problems.


----------



## Quest99

Looks like you got yourself another stalker.....sigh

On the other hand, I totally admire and respect your passion of this hobby. Time flies when you are having this much fun.

As for the build of the month award? I pity the other contenders as you could easily win the build of the year!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Looks like you got yourself another stalker.....sigh
> On the other hand, I totally admire and respect your passion of this hobby. Time flies when you are having this much fun.
> As for the build of the month award? I pity the other contenders as you could easily win the build of the year!


Is that a jab at me? So now admiring ones build and giving praise is the definition of stalking, nice


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Hey Chris, how much can you run off the Aquero/ PA2's? At some point in my SM8 build I'm going with the Aquaero Pro, I need to power 21 fans and a D5, eventually 1 or 2 flow meters. I do have a fan controller to help until I can add 1 or more PA2's. I plan to add the water block to the Aquaero.
> Reason for all the fans is a pedestal with 2x480's and a 240 inside + case fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> Depends on how much current the fans draw. The AQ 5 can handle 1.65 A per channel, 5 amps total. Each PA2 can handle 4 Amps.
> A single AP-15 Gentle Typhoon draws 0.083 Amps, so you could run 20 off one channel in theory....I have routinely run 8 off each channel of mine with no problems.


@mandrix....braindeeadmac knows what he's talking about. I was worried about running 8 of my Noiseblockers off of one PA2...not because of amps...but I was worried that the thermal protection would kick in when they are undervolted and spin the fans back at 100%. But my 8 fans isn't even really causing it to sweat. The temperature of the PA2 goes from about 35c when the fans are 100% speed, and it rises to about 55c or so when they are undervolted to 4 volts. So there seems to be plenty of headroom for even more fans. I think the thermal protection kicks in at 85c or 90c. At some point, it becomes less about how many you can fit on one channel....and more about which fans would it make sense to control separately. You probably want to be able to control your rad fans separately from you case fans. And may even want separate control over the fans on this radiator vs that radiator.

But, I would only put 1 D5 on a PA2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> You know I've been following this for a long time now....so I have all the patience to wait and see this thing finished up. When it is done, rest assured you've got my vote when you feel it's ready for MOTM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> On the other hand, I totally admire and respect your passion of this hobby. Time flies when you are having this much fun.
> As for the build of the month award? I pity the other contenders as you could easily win the build of the year!


Thanks Mike and Quest! I haven't really payed attention to that contest in the past, but since I've been following the build logs of several of the nominations this month....I can see there is some great builds that get nominated. There are 3 or 4 this month (all CaseLabs cases!) that should be deserving.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Looks like you got yourself another stalker.....sigh


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Is that a jab at me? So now admiring ones build and giving praise is the definition of stalking, nice


Mike...Quest is referring to the posting of my picture in a previous post. Not a jab at you.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> @mandrix....braindeeadmac knows what he's talking about. I was worried about running 8 of my Noiseblockers off of one PA2...not because of amps...but I was worried that the thermal protection would kick in when they are undervolted and spin the fans back at 100%. But my 8 fans isn't even really causing it to sweat. The temperature of the PA2 goes from about 35c when the fans are 100% speed, and it rises to about 55c or so when they are undervolted to 4 volts. So there seems to be plenty of headroom for even more fans. I think the thermal protection kicks in at 85c or 90c. At some point, it becomes less about how many you can fit on one channel....and more about which fans would it make sense to control separately. You probably want to be able to control your rad fans separately from you case fans. And may even want separate control over the fans on this radiator vs that radiator.
> But, I would only put 1 D5 on a PA2.
> Thanks Mike and Quest! I haven't really payed attention to that contest in the past, but since I've been following the build logs of several of the nominations this month....I can see there is some great builds that get nominated. There are 3 or 4 this month (all CaseLabs cases!) that should be deserving.
> Mike...Quest is referring to the posting of my picture in a previous post. Not a jab at you.


Ah just the timing had me thinking otherwise....I skip through most of the posts and look for updates haha, so I skip over other stuff like that. My apologies.


----------



## barkinos98

chris, its probably been talked too much on the thread, but 21 pages is like impossible to scan through. is there like an exact code for the red color? im sure no painter in turkey knows the "red of oklahoma university but metallic"


----------



## Electrocutor

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crimson#OU_Crimson


----------



## cpachris

boy...that web page sure doesn't look like it is showing the right color, ...but maybe I need to calibrate my monitor.

Are you trying to paint something? Powdercoat something?


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> boy...that web page sure doesn't look like it is showing the right color, ...but maybe I need to calibrate my monitor.
> Are you trying to paint something? Powdercoat something?


i was looking for a very nice red (not too bright to be flashy nor too dark to be counted as bordeaux) and i just remembered this thread lol. i'm receiving a mamba soon (free and nice mouse for benching on a 3930K=every man's dream) with the soft touch peeled off. for powdercoating, i have a 692 which is bone stock, with a crosshair IV being shipped


----------



## cpachris

If powder coating....the one that was closest to school colors was Crimson Red by Prismatic Powders.

But they have a lot of nice colors...so you should peruse. Good luck!


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> If powder coating....the one that was closest to school colors was Crimson Red by Prismatic Powders.
> But they have a lot of nice colors...so you should peruse. Good luck!


thanks! also is that the place you got your stuff coated?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> thanks! also is that the place you got your stuff coated?


No. Jim at Caselabs did my case for me, and I've used a local powdercoater here for all of the white stuff.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindeadmac*
> 
> Depends on how much current the fans draw. The AQ 5 can handle 1.65 A per channel, 5 amps total. Each PA2 can handle 4 Amps.
> A single AP-15 Gentle Typhoon draws 0.083 Amps, so you could run 20 off one channel in theory....I have routinely run 8 off each channel of mine with no problems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> @mandrix....braindeeadmac knows what he's talking about. I was worried about running 8 of my Noiseblockers off of one PA2...not because of amps...but I was worried that the thermal protection would kick in when they are undervolted and spin the fans back at 100%. But my 8 fans isn't even really causing it to sweat. The temperature of the PA2 goes from about 35c when the fans are 100% speed, and it rises to about 55c or so when they are undervolted to 4 volts. So there seems to be plenty of headroom for even more fans. I think the thermal protection kicks in at 85c or 90c. At some point, it becomes less about how many you can fit on one channel....and more about which fans would it make sense to control separately. You probably want to be able to control your rad fans separately from you case fans. And may even want separate control over the fans on this radiator vs that radiator.
> But, I would only put 1 D5 on a PA2.
> --.


Thanks, guys. Sounds like I'll be able to do what I need without too much fuss.


----------



## jrule2

It's funny.. I've been following your build since discovering your efforts to have a block made for the Extreme11, and I had no idea until recently how similar our hardware is.









Amazing work with this build Chris!


----------



## H Strong

Finally reached the end of this thread again. So much awesome sauce in this build Chris. Cant wait to see the finished project. Would love to see that block Nateman_doo is working on in action


----------



## mandrix

Guys, I ordered the Aquaero Pro, 1x poweradjust, 1x flow meter, 2x temp sensors and will be running a Swiftech 35x pump. (first a CL case and now Aquaero-see what a bad influence you have on my bank account cpachris? lol.)

My question is are there any instructions/tutorials/set up tips to be found anywhere? (in English)
I don't have any of this yet since I ordered yesterday, and it all may be simple, but from past experience it's often a pain when it comes to adjusting software and hardware to work together.


----------



## Electrocutor

Check out Aquacomputer's English forum.

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/

[Edit]
I'm stupid, you already posted there. You'll have to dig or ask for answers for most things.


----------



## cpachris

One of the things not documented well that got me at first...was you have to have Microsoft .net 4.0 framework installed before Aquasuite will run. And you need the full version...not the client version.

1. install .net 4.0 - full
2. install Aquasuite 2012
3. plug in aquaero via usb...and flash firmware
4. plug in poweradjust VIA USB....and flash firmware
5. set aquabus address on poweradjust to 50 (may default there)
6. remove PA2 usb and connect via aquabus

then you can start plugging in sensors and playing. If you want software temp sensors, install Aida64. Before Aquasuite will be able to read the software sensors, you will have to go in the options of Aida and check the box for "write values to DMI" or something like that. then Aquasuite will pick them up as long as Aida64 is running.


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> One of the things not documented well that got me at first...was you have to have Microsoft .net 4.0 framework installed before Aquasuite will run. And you need the full version...not the client version.
> 1. install .net 4.0 - full
> 2. install Aquasuite 2012
> 3. plug in aquaero via usb...and flash firmware
> 4. plug in poweradjust VIA USB....and flash firmware
> 5. set aquabus address on poweradjust to 50 (may default there)
> 6. remove PA2 usb and connect via aquabus
> then you can start plugging in sensors and playing. If you want software temp sensors, install Aida64. Before Aquasuite will be able to read the software sensors, you will have to go in the options of Aida and check the box for "write values to DMI" or something like that. then Aquasuite will pick them up as long as Aida64 is running.


*quickly taking out my notepad and taking notes*


----------



## cpachris

Motherboards are beautiful......













Those with eagle eyes will spot my popped capacitor in the 3rd picture. Had to take off the large Southbridge/LSI heatsink to find it. Lifted right off the board without blowing its top. Still unsure what caused it. Thought I might as well take some pictures while the heatsink was off. This board has SO much stuff on it. Really a beautiful board. Asrock has already issued RMA # for me so I don't think it will take long for me to get a replacement. In the meantime, I have a spare.

I've been slowed over the past 2 weeks, as I've struggled with some raid card issues and then some memory issues. Hope to be back trucking again shortly. In the meantime, I'm going to finish up all the wiring, because I still have a lot of it to do.


----------



## GingerJohn

Wow. Those are some beautiful shots of a beautiful board.

I think you should label that post as NSFW...









How is that 24pin coming? Sleeved itself yet?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> How is that 24pin coming? Sleeved itself yet?


Let me go check.....


----------



## sunfish31831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I have a spare.


----------



## Citra

New pants...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Check out Aquacomputer's English forum.
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/
> [Edit]
> I'm stupid, you already posted there. You'll have to dig or ask for answers for most things.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> One of the things not documented well that got me at first...was you have to have Microsoft .net 4.0 framework installed before Aquasuite will run. And you need the full version...not the client version.
> 1. install .net 4.0 - full
> 2. install Aquasuite 2012
> 3. plug in aquaero via usb...and flash firmware
> 4. plug in poweradjust VIA USB....and flash firmware
> 5. set aquabus address on poweradjust to 50 (may default there)
> 6. remove PA2 usb and connect via aquabus
> then you can start plugging in sensors and playing. If you want software temp sensors, install Aida64. Before Aquasuite will be able to read the software sensors, you will have to go in the options of Aida and check the box for "write values to DMI" or something like that. then Aquasuite will pick them up as long as Aida64 is running.


Thanks. See, I've been looking around and I did not know one bit of that. You would think they would make this a little easier. Oh well, I have net 4 installed for some other programs I use, so at least I'm started off right.


----------



## mosi

As GingerJohn already said, beautiful shots indeed! The one with the SoundCore chip's my favourite somehow. Maybe because the red vs gold contrast looks awesome to me.







Is that a Creative soundcard on there?
Also my eagle eyes fail me, where is that blown cap in the 3rd picture? All the golden ones look sort of alright to me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Guys, I ordered the Aquaero Pro, 1x poweradjust, 1x flow meter, 2x temp sensors and will be running a Swiftech 35x pump. (first a CL case and now Aquaero-see what a bad influence you have on my bank account cpachris? lol.)
> My question is are there any instructions/tutorials/set up tips to be found anywhere? (in English)
> I don't have any of this yet since I ordered yesterday, and it all may be simple, but from past experience it's often a pain when it comes to adjusting software and hardware to work together.


Sorry 'bout your wallet







but the whole stuff is pretty awesome and offer lots of options and potential.
Something I didn't understand first was that this Aquabus is meant to tie all the parts together via the AQ5 completely independent from your rig. If you just connect the stuff via USB you need the Aquasuite software to do the controlling.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> How is that 24pin coming? Sleeved itself yet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Let me go check.....


Nope. Still sittin' there starin' at me.


----------



## jagz

I know I've already posted this somewhere in this thread..but anyway,there is probably 3 people on OCN who make me jealous. You are one of them.

God I love that case, I have the SM8 incomming, but wow I love that TH10 monster. Thing could double as a shed outside.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> The one with the SoundCore chip's my favourite somehow. Maybe because the red vs gold contrast looks awesome to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a Creative soundcard on there?
> 
> Also my eagle eyes fail me, where is that blown cap in the 3rd picture? All the golden ones look sort of alright to me


The SoundCore chip shot was my favorite also. It's built into the board...not a separate card.

Click this picture below to blow it up, and then look at the tallest capacitor that is the furthest away in this shot. It didn't use to be that tall.












Spoiler: A New Game.....Find the Blown Capacitor!







And on the board right below it...you'll see the scorch mark it left.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrule2*
> 
> It's funny.. I've been following your build since discovering your efforts to have a block made for the Extreme11, and I had no idea until recently how similar our hardware is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing work with this build Chris!


Got a log? Lets se some picks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H Strong*
> 
> Finally reached the end of this thread again. So much awesome sauce in this build Chris. Cant wait to see the finished project. Would love to see that block Nateman_doo is working on in action


Lol. The phrase "awesome sauce" was the code word I used with my kid posse last night. Both kids had sleepover friends, and we took the car out around ten o'clock to do some good ole fashion sidewalk chalking. All four kids would pile out of the car and hit the driveway to start chalking....while I'd keep a lookout for front door activity. Most of the time, they were like a crew of ninjas...and we could be in and out without waking the natives. But...if I saw any front door activity....I'd start shouting "Awesome Sauce!! Awesome Sauce!!!!"....and that was their cue to pile back in the car quickly. Brought back memories...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> *quickly taking out my notepad and taking notes*


You getting an AQ5 Quest?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I know I've already posted this somewhere in this thread..but anyway,there is probably 3 people on OCN who make me jealous. You are one of them.
> God I love that case, I have the SM8 incomming, but wow I love that TH10 monster. Thing could double as a shed outside.


Well I may be a little jealous on the SM8. I will probably do an SM8 build next....I like the looks of it for a smaller water-cooled setup. Hope you do a log so I can get some ideas.


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The SoundCare chip shot was my favorite also. It's built into the board...not a separate card.
> Click this picture below to blow it up, and then look at the tallest capacitor that is the furthest away in this shot. It didn't use to be that tall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: A New Game.....Find the Blown Capacitor!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And on the board right below it...you'll see the scorch mark it left.


Umm, you mean the one right in front of the BIOS batttery? It looks like it wanted to reach the stars with all the might of its tiny life! Good to see that they finally start soldering good sound chips onto boards though. Maybe they will even top it off with those Asus Xonar ones one day.









awesome sauce? ninja sidewalk chalking? Either I've had too little or way too much to drink but I don't get it


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> *Motherboards are beautiful......*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those with eagle eyes will spot my popped capacitor in the 3rd picture. Had to take off the large Southbridge/LSI heatsink to find it. Lifted right off the board without blowing its top. Still unsure what caused it. Thought I might as well take some pictures while the heatsink was off. This board has SO much stuff on it. Really a beautiful board. Asrock has already issued RMA # for me so I don't think it will take long for me to get a replacement. In the meantime, I have a spare.
> I've been slowed over the past 2 weeks, as I've struggled with some raid card issues and then some memory issues. Hope to be back trucking again shortly. In the meantime, I'm going to finish up all the wiring, because I still have a lot of it to do.


I love computers and technology because it shows what we as humans are capable of, We've come along way from the horse and buggy. I feel the same way when I see our skyscrapers and bridges, Human engineering works it just takes time and man is it beautiful when it does.









Sorry to hear you got a defective board.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Well I may be a little jealous on the SM8. I will probably do an SM8 build next....I like the looks of it for a smaller water-cooled setup. Hope you do a log so I can get some ideas.


The gf needs one.


----------



## mandrix

The SM8 seems big to me, especially with the pedestal attached.







Of course not near as big as a TH10, but I'm coming from a Switch and the extra width looks cavernous.

Did any of you guys have problems getting the water block snug on the AQ5? It felt like I ran out of threads and I was afraid to overtighten. It feels like it's got a little play. Even the threads for the fittings on the block were a little stiff. Guess I'll leave it alone for now until I can check temps when everything is set up, don't want to strip any threads.
Still waiting on PA2 to get here from AT and a Box 'o Fans from Sidewinders.

C'mon Chris, sleeve that 24 pin.







Or do like I do and just make your own. The pins on my SeaSonic psu's are a royal pita to remove, so I just make up my own wire sets. More time consuming, I usually work on stuff like that while watching sports on the tv.


----------



## Quest99

Keep up the great work Chris! I noticed that you don't update as often due to the raid and memory issues. Maybe you should post your problems here so people can help out or learn from them. I am sure that you got a lot of folks addicted to your gear....Asrock Extreme 11.....SSD madness.....Aquacomputer goodies....etc.

Cheers!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Did any of you guys have problems getting the water block snug on the AQ5? It felt like I ran out of threads and I was afraid to overtighten. It feels like it's got a little play. Even the threads for the fittings on the block were a little stiff. Guess I'll leave it alone for now until I can check temps when everything is set up, don't want to strip any threads.


No...mine felt snug. Did you put down the thermal pads that came with it? Did you use the screws that came with the block.....NOT the screws that held on the heatsink?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> C'mon Chris, sleeve that 24 pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or do like I do and just make your own. The pins on my SeaSonic psu's are a royal pita to remove, so I just make up my own wire sets. More time consuming, I usually work on stuff like that while watching sports on the tv.


It's still staring at me. And yes, I'll make my own for the 24pin....just like all the others I've done. So far, every cable has been a custom cable and length. 24pin will be no different.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Keep up the great work Chris! I noticed that you don't update as often due to the raid and memory issues. Maybe you should post your problems here so people can help out or learn from them. I am sure that you got a lot of folks addicted to your gear....Asrock Extreme 11.....SSD madness.....Aquacomputer goodies....etc.
> Cheers!


I posted the memory problems in a different thread so this one didn't get as junked up. The problems have slowed me down...but they haven't stopped me. I'll post an update on the fan power harness I'm just about done with either today or tomorrow. I played with lots of different options for how to do it....but I've decided what works best for me. Should move more quickly now. I've completed the power harness for the fans on the top 480's in pull, and I'm almost done with the harness for the fans on the top 480's in push. Will post some pictures of those soon.


----------



## mandrix

Thanks Chris, I pulled the A5 back apart and looked at the water block. One of the screws was not in all the way in spite of being pretty tight, so I backed them all out and retorqued them carefully and the block is good and snug now.


----------



## barkinos98

chris, remember i told you about powder coating my case that color? well, i've changed my mind. im either going to get it painted in Vermillion Red (BMW's color, just the one i want) or the red for evoque's. i have yet to see the vermillion in real life, but from pics it is "the one". the evoque red was pretty too, saw it in our university's parking lot. reason i cant powder coat is that its too expensive (more than the case's value when bought new) to do it here in turkey. i called bmw, and this weekend for $50 im getting my case painted in either colors, have to decide.

just wanted to inform lol


----------



## cpachris

So are you saying that the local BMW bodyshop is doing the painting for $50? Or you can buy the paint directly from BMW for $50? That's not a bad price. Good looking color!


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> chris, remember i told you about powder coating my case that color? well, i've changed my mind. im either going to get it painted in Vermillion Red (BMW's color, just the one i want) or the red for evoque's. i have yet to see the vermillion in real life, but from pics it is "the one". the evoque red was pretty too, saw it in our university's parking lot. reason i cant powder coat is that its too expensive (more than the case's value when bought new) to do it here in turkey. i called bmw, and this weekend for $50 im getting my case painted in either colors, have to decide.
> 
> just wanted to inform lol


Evoque red is awesome

We have a blue evoque! ^_^


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> So are you saying that the local BMW bodyshop is doing the painting for $50? Or you can buy the paint directly from BMW for $50? That's not a bad price. Good looking color!


they are doing it for $50. but i need to remove all the rivets and pick which parts should get gloss black and which should get red.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Evoque red is awesome
> We have a blue evoque! ^_^


oh it arrived? well happy ownership







, also the color of the "evoque red" is known as firenze red


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> they are doing it for $50. but i need to remove all the rivets and pick which parts should get gloss black and which should get red.


Will look forward to the pictures. That's an awesome color. Are you going to try and theme the build after BMW? That would open up a lot of cool possibilities.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Will look forward to the pictures. That's an awesome color. Are you going to try and theme the build after BMW? That would open up a lot of cool possibilities.


well do you think its coincidental that my fav. car maker is BMW


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> they are doing it for $50. but i need to remove all the rivets and pick which parts should get gloss black and which should get red.
> oh it arrived? well happy ownership
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , also the color of the "evoque red" is known as firenze red


$50! What a steal!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> well do you think its coincidental that my fav. car maker is BMW












And back on topic... loving this build and the attention to detail is amazing.


----------



## Guffer

Subbed


----------



## Audiophile20

cpachris,

Can you please take a look at my post and give me some advise on ordering the Aquaero parts for my build? I will greatly appreciate it. Sorry to poach on your time, but your insights will be greatly welcome.

Thank you in advance! Please see link below.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1312411/please-help-do-i-have-all-the-right-parts-and-connectors-for-aquaero-5-xt-or-pro-and-bits


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> .. loving this build and the attention to detail is amazing.


Thanks deafboy!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Guffer*
> 
> Subbed


Welcome to OCN Guffer!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile20*
> 
> cpachris,
> Can you please take a look at my post and give me some advise on ordering the Aquaero parts for my build? I will greatly appreciate it. Sorry to poach on your time, but your insights will be greatly welcome.
> Thank you in advance! Please see link below.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1312411/please-help-do-i-have-all-the-right-parts-and-connectors-for-aquaero-5-xt-or-pro-and-bits


I posted a response for you.


----------



## Audiophile20

Thanks Chris. Appreciate it.


----------



## TPE-331

Chris, are you aware that Paul Revere once shouted "The Samsung 840's are coming" "The Samsung 840's are coming"







I just read the release reviews on these bad boys and today I told the wife I expect 5 Samsung 840 Pro's for my birthday in December!







Can't wait to see if she was actually listening to me!







Your build is coming along with great man, keep at it.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Chris, are you aware that Paul Revere once shouted "The Samsung 840's are coming" "The Samsung 840's are coming"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just read the release reviews on these bad boys and today I told the wife I expect 5 Samsung 840 Pro's for my birthday in December!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see if she was actually listening to me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your build is coming along with great man, keep at it.


That would be a good wifey. I'll have to check out the reviews!


----------



## grizzlyblunting

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That would be a good wifey. I'll have to check out the reviews!


Spoiler alert: awesome power efficiency


----------



## mandrix

Box of Sammies would be nice! I love my 830's, much faster than any of the other SSD's I have.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizzlyblunting*
> 
> Spoiler alert: awesome power efficiency


Made it through most of the reviews. Looks like the 840 Pro will be a nice SSD indeed. In some of the testing on sequential write speeds, and incompressable data, the V4's come out on top, or are very close. So I don't think its enough to get me to consider an upgrade yet. I've got enough invested in current set of drives, that it will take something revolutionary....not evolutionary. But SSD makers have made so much progress on IOPS over the last year or so, that it makes me wonder what the next big breakthrough is going to be.


----------



## cpachris

My daughter caught a glimpse of my avatar the other day and threatened me. She said she looked like a little girl, and that she was only 8 when that picture was taken.

Well...lil' miss 10yo....I've changed my avatar for you. But you'll always be my little girl.


----------



## cpachris

Thank you for the recent +rep's! I see an extra OCN flame below my name.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> My daughter caught a glimpse of my avatar the other day and threatened me. She said she looked like a little girl, and that she was only 8 when that picture was taken.
> Well...lil' miss 10yo....I've changed my avatar for you. But you'll always be my little girl.


Gotta love them kids.









On another note, your unique rep is the same as my total rep.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> My daughter caught a glimpse of my avatar the other day and threatened me. She said she looked like a little girl, and that she was only 8 when that picture was taken.
> 
> Well...lil' miss 10yo....I've changed my avatar for you. But you'll always be my little girl.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*


why is that so funny? i think its cute


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why is that so funny? i think its cute
Click to expand...

My sister who is also ten would never even let my parents think of getting a picture like that


----------



## cpachris

Replacement RMA'd board back from Asrock. Customer service was excellent, and turnaround time was fantastic. Will commence memory testing again now...


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Replacement RMA'd board back from Asrock. Customer service was excellent, and turnaround time was fantastic. Will commence memory testing again now...


congrats on a speedy RMA process, It took me almost 6 months to get a warped Asus motherboard exchanged.


----------



## mandrix

Look at all those purty gold caps.
Ya know I was wondering why they didn't make the pedestal for the SM8 open on both ends like this case. Sure makes rigging a drain line a pain in cramped quarters.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> congrats on a speedy RMA process, It took me almost 6 months to get a warped Asus motherboard exchanged.


I haven't had the joy of dealing with Asus before. With Asrock, my return was so simple it was criminal. It took a week. They wouldn't cross-ship, but I sent it priority mail and it got there in two days. They took 2 days to process it, and Fed-ex'd me back a new board. Was a super experience.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Look at all those purty gold caps.
> Ya know I was wondering why they didn't make the pedestal for the SM8 open on both ends like this case. Sure makes rigging a drain line a pain in cramped quarters.


You trying to do one out the bottom? Or out the back?


----------



## mandrix

Basically the back of the SM8 ped is solid with hex holes punched in the aluminum. Looks like I'm going to have to either flip the flex bay end to the rear to hide the drain setup, since the only way to get the inner flex bay cover/grill on is to take the radiators out, or just live without that piece. I guess it won't look bad since the outer full cover piece will still be in place, but it's just real tight quarters with those 2x480's.
I had originally thought to put the drain at the opposite end since the Alphacool rads have that single end port, but there is not room for fittings back there without cutting out the solid end piece.
It's not that I'm unhappy with it, but for some reason I expected the back end to have a removable plate facilitating easy access. I'll just deal with what I have in the meantime, and maybe CL will come out with an alternate end plate for the pedestal.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Basically the back of the SM8 ped is solid with hex holes punched in the aluminum. Looks like I'm going to have to either flip the flex bay end to the rear to hide the drain setup, since the only way to get the inner flex bay cover/grill on is to take the radiators out, or just live without that piece. I guess it won't look bad since the outer full cover piece will still be in place, but it's just real tight quarters with those 2x480's.
> I had originally thought to put the drain at the opposite end since the Alphacool rads have that single end port, but there is not room for fittings back there without cutting out the solid end piece.
> It's not that I'm unhappy with it, but for some reason I expected the back end to have a removable plate facilitating easy access. I'll just deal with what I have in the meantime, and maybe CL will come out with an alternate end plate for the pedestal.


Oh. The TH10 ped has a removable plate that leaves open 140mm fan holes. Wonder why they went a different route on the smaller ped?


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Made it through most of the reviews. Looks like the 840 Pro will be a nice SSD indeed. In some of the testing on sequential write speeds, and incompressable data, the V4's come out on top, or are very close. So I don't think its enough to get me to consider an upgrade yet. I've got enough invested in current set of drives, that it will take something revolutionary....not evolutionary. But SSD makers have made so much progress on IOPS over the last year or so, that it makes me wonder what the next big breakthrough is going to be.


Grabbed 3 more 830's from the Newegg sale last week.







Now I need to figure out how to hide the credit card charge from the wifey.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Grabbed 3 more 830's from the Newegg sale last week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to figure out how to hide the credit card charge from the wifey.


Nice. How many do you have now?

You know...I think some people would be willing to pay an extra $5 bucks on an order if they could choose the company name that would appear on credit card statement.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Grabbed 3 more 830's from the Newegg sale last week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to figure out how to hide the credit card charge from the wifey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. How many do you have now?
> 
> You know...I think some people would be willing to pay an extra $5 bucks on an order if they could choose the company name that would appear on credit card statement.
Click to expand...

Sig worthy.









Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Chokladkakan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> You know...I think some people would be willing to pay an extra $5 bucks on an order if they could choose the company name that would appear on credit card statement.


'Honey, why is there a $500 charge from the grocery store?'
'Organic food is expensive!'


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Grabbed 3 more 830's from the Newegg sale last week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to figure out how to hide the credit card charge from the wifey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. How many do you have now?
> 
> You know...I think some people would be willing to pay an extra $5 bucks on an order if they could choose the company name that would appear on credit card statement.
Click to expand...

YES.

My dad's 50th is coming up. We're getting him something but we don't want him to know. So the only choice is to use my DC as a way to pass the transaction.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Oh. The TH10 ped has a removable plate that leaves open 140mm fan holes. Wonder why they went a different route on the smaller ped?


I don't know, and just "assumed" when I ordered it that it had an open back. If you look at the ped description they make it sound like you can fit a lot in there, lol, but of course for the SM8 being smaller 2x480's in push pull fills it up. _Might_ could get a fan in the back but it would be tricky. Like I said, I can't even get the flexbay cover on with the rads mounted, is sort of a catch 22: pull the rads to attach the cover, pull the cover to access the fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Nice. How many do you have now?
> You know...I think some people would be willing to pay an extra $5 bucks on an order if they could choose the company name that would appear on credit card statement.


lol.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> YES.
> My dad's 50th is coming up. We're getting him something but we don't want him to know. So the only choice is to use my DC as a way to pass the transaction.


here in turkey, none of your DC (debit card, i hope) transactions aren't billed. you have to calculate the amount left using your receipts/invoices or go to the ATM a bit frequently. helps when buying presents, although sometimes you spend too much and you basically lose track of your money. also 50? dayum he's old








happy birthdays anyway


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Nice. How many do you have now?
> You know...I think some people would be willing to pay an extra $5 bucks on an order if they could choose the company name that would appear on credit card statement.


I've got a bunch scattered across three computers.

The TH10 has:

x3 Vertex 3 120GB.
x1 Vertex 2 120GB.
x1 Crucial M3 128GB.

The T10 has:

x1 Intel 510 120GB.
x1 Crucial M4 128GB.
x1 Crucial M4 256GB.
x2 Samsung 830 256GB - First two on the left in the pic above.
x1 Samsung 830 120GB - Also shown in the pic above.

My old CoolerMaster ATCS 840 has:

x1 G.Skill Phoenix Pro 120GB (my first ever SSD)

I bought the 256GB Samsung 830's last week when Newegg had them for $169 during their 3 hour only sale. Just couldn't resist.







No more SSD's for me until the Samsung 840's are available and they go on sale.







I think I'm going to have to make a run to the jewelry store on the way home from work tomorrow and buy mamma some bling, I don't want her too mad at me when she sees the credit card statement.







I think the next time I spend money on computer hardware, I might have to do it using one of those prepaid credit cards.







No paper trail for her to see.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Sig worthy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


They are beast.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> here in turkey, none of your DC (debit card, i hope) transactions are billed.


Barkinos....are you guys going to war over there? Things looking scary with Syria.


----------



## cpachris

I finished testing my memory with the new RMA'd motherboard replacement. Wouldn't you know...the same 2 sticks of memory that tested fine with the old board (before I started playing with Beta version of memtest), tested fine with this new board also. And they both ran for 10+ hours each. The same 6 sticks that threw errors with the old board, threw errors with the new board. So I think that eliminated the motherboard as a possible issue. It almost has to just be some bad memory. Amazing that 6 of the 8 sticks look like they are bad. I've already sent 4 of the sticks back to Corsair via RMA. As soon as get the replacement sticks, I'll test them and know for sure.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I finished testing my memory with the new RMA'd motherboard replacement. Wouldn't you know...the same 2 sticks of memory that tested fine with the old board (before I started playing with Beta version of memtest), tested fine with this new board also. And they both ran for 10+ hours each. The same 6 sticks that threw errors with the old board, threw errors with the new board. So I think that eliminated the motherboard as a possible issue. It almost has to just be some bad memory. Amazing that 6 of the 8 sticks look like they are bad. I've already sent 4 of the sticks back to Corsair via RMA. As soon as get the replacement sticks, I'll test them and know for sure.


Wow!! Talk about bad luck.


----------



## mandrix

That sucks.







Knock on wood, I've never, ever, had any bad sticks or incompatibility problems. I'm pretty careful about checking QVL though Kingston and G Skill always seem to work with my Gigabyte boards regardless.
The weirdest thing I've had is the Asrock board in my HTPC didn't like a particular SSD as boot drive, never did get it to work until I changed from Corsair to Crucial.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Barkinos....are you guys going to war over there? Things looking scary with Syria.


i hope not, although our minister acts like he wants to "bring it on". i can explain it a bit more detailed, if you want, but it involves politics so PM me if you want them.


----------



## Valefox

After multiple days, I just finished reading through every single post on this thread! What a fantastic build log, Chris. You are a true inspiration. I'll continue to follow the log right up until completion!

This is a great community!


----------



## PCModderMike

Brand new board with an excellent RMA experience =








Discovering 6 out of 8 memory sticks are bad =








Well, good to see you chugging along still, keep it up.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> x3 Vertex 3 120GB.
> x1 Vertex 2 120GB.
> x1 Crucial M3 128GB.
> 
> x1 Intel 510 120GB.
> x1 Crucial M4 128GB.
> x1 Crucial M4 256GB.
> x2 Samsung 830 256GB - First two on the left in the pic above.
> x1 Samsung 830 120GB - Also shown in the pic above.
> 
> x1 G.Skill Phoenix Pro 120GB (my first ever SSD)


That's a lot of nice SSD lovin'. But yes....you need to buy her some bling as a preemptive move.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valefox*
> 
> After multiple days, I just finished reading through every single post on this thread! What a fantastic build log, Chris. You are a true inspiration. I'll continue to follow the log right up until completion!
> This is a great community!


Another first timer! Love it. Welcome to OCN Valefox!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Brand new board with an excellent RMA experience =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Discovering 6 out of 8 memory sticks are bad =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, good to see you chugging along still, keep it up.


Corsair processed the RMA pretty quickly. I have a UPS tracking number and the label number was created today. Don't know expected delivery yet. Wish they sent via FedEx like Asrock did. If the new memory tests OK....then I need to return the 2nd of the two 32GB sets I have. I only sent one back in the first RMA so that I would still have some memory in they system while waiting on replacements.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That's a lot of nice SSD lovin'. But yes....you need to buy her some bling as a preemptive move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another first timer! Love it. Welcome to OCN Valefox!
> Corsair processed the RMA pretty quickly. I have a UPS tracking number and the label number was created today. Don't know expected delivery yet. Wish they sent via FedEx like Asrock did. If the new memory tests OK....then I need to return the 2nd of the two 32GB sets I have. I only sent one back in the first RMA so that I would still have some memory in they system while waiting on replacements.


Fedex is great for some people, horrible for others.


----------



## Audiophile20

cpschris-

Just wanted to sympathize with you and say that I am also sending my Extreme11 back to ASRock on RMA. Let us hope they are as fast in returning the board. I was told that it was about a 6-day process. The board was functioning fine for about 6-weeks and then the system started to hang and had to either reset or restart the system. Nothing has worked in fixing it - memory change, GPU change, etc.

Anyway here is to hoping this happens fast. Glad to hear that you got your board back fast!


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> You know...I think some people would be willing to pay an extra $5 bucks on an order if they could choose the company name that would appear on credit card statement.


Hahahahaha oh my is it really THAT bad? Somehow right this moment I'm kinda glad that I don't have to argue about all the money I'm sinking into hardware.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey chris, check out the first block in this link... http://www.mips-computer.de/

Jeffinslaw


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey chris, check out the first block in this link... http://www.mips-computer.de/


Not sure if you are following the custom AE11 thread we have going on in the water cooling section, ...but a prototype picture of this board was posted a couple of weeks ago. I ordered one already but they haven't started shipping them out yet. They ran into a small design issue with the VRM block and had to redesign it just last week. But they should start shipping soon. Neat to see that its on their website now. Thanks for the heads-up.

I'm still real excited about the custom Nateman_doo block, but this mips block is going to be ready much sooner. Since I have two AE11 boards, I'll end up testing both the nateman_doo block and the mips block, and the best performer stays in the BBBB. The other one will go into my smaller and upcoming SM5 or SM8 build.

While I was ordering the mips block, I talked them into producing a copper plated version of their CPU block for me. It was only available in the nickel plating. I love the look of this block, and it performed well in Stren's test. Ultra pumped about a copper version.










While I was at it, I ordered 2 of the ram blocks also.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Not sure if you are following the custom AE11 thread we have going on in the water cooling section, ...but a prototype picture of this board was posted a couple of weeks ago. I ordered one already but they haven't started shipping them out yet. They ran into a small design issue with the VRM block and had to redesign it just last week. But they should start shipping soon. Neat to see that its on their website now. Thanks for the heads-up.
> I'm still real excited about the custom Nateman_doo block, but this mips block is going to be ready much sooner. Since I have two AE11 boards, I'll end up testing both the nateman_doo block and the mips block, and the best performer stays in the BBBB. The other one will go into my smaller and upcoming SM5 or SM8 build.
> While I was ordering the mips block, I talked them into producing a copper plated version of their CPU block for me. It was only available in the nickel plating. I love the look of this block, and it performed well in Stren's test. Ultra pumped about a copper version.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was at it, I ordered 2 of the ram blocks also.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture 2


Yah, I know about the custom block, it looks really cool. I just thought you would be interested in knowing that MIPS had made one









Love the build so far! And that CPU block will look AWESOME!!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Mainsil

Subscribed because I'm tired of losing my place in this massive thread. I've been toying with the idea of taking the plunge into water cooling for my next rig and found your log a few weeks ago and have been reading it daily ever since. Your build log has been massively entertaining and informative. I've also been really impressed with the maturity level of most of the posters and your good sense of humor.

I thought I should also say, thanks cpachris for sharing your project, and thanks to cpachris and almost everyone else here for making this thread fun and entertaining.


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


I can't help it, that block is reminding me of a certain...


Spoiler: ...face




Marvel - Deadpool


Hopefully your very personal one will be as badass like the other one over there!


----------



## Quest99

Hehe Deadpool!

Can't wait to see the new blocks!


----------



## mandrix

Chris, where did you get those white SATA power punch down connectors?
NM, I found some at FCPU. Can't decide if I want to go white or black with white sleeve.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Chris, where did you get those white SATA power punch down connectors?
> NM, I found some at FCPU. Can't decide if I want to go white or black with white sleeve.


The white and orange cable in the shot you posted yesterday looked awesome. Are you doing something to change that setup?


----------



## cpachris

OU - 63.......Texas - 21

Life is good.


----------



## cpachris

Bevo....it's what's for dinner!


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> OU - 63.......Texas - 21
> Life is good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Bevo....it's what's for dinner!


Life really is good (for you). Boy do those pieces of meat speak to me Eat us!


----------



## TPE-331

Wow Chris! Looks like OU may be BCS bound, congrats!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The white and orange cable in the shot you posted yesterday looked awesome. Are you doing something to change that setup?


White and orange? Not sure I know what pic you're talking about? If you mean my sleeving, it's white blue and black.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> White and orange? Not sure I know what pic you're talking about? If you mean my sleeving, it's white blue and black.


Sorry. Was getting it confused with Seaminus build. Watching several of them right now.


----------



## soth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Not sure if you are following the custom AE11 thread we have going on in the water cooling section, ...but a prototype picture of this board was posted a couple of weeks ago. I ordered one already but they haven't started shipping them out yet. They ran into a small design issue with the VRM block and had to redesign it just last week. But they should start shipping soon. Neat to see that its on their website now. Thanks for the heads-up.
> I'm still real excited about the custom Nateman_doo block, but this mips block is going to be ready much sooner. Since I have two AE11 boards, I'll end up testing both the nateman_doo block and the mips block, and the best performer stays in the BBBB.


I've spoken to Michael at MIPS and ordered a Nickel\POM AE11 block in addition to nateman_doo's custom block. I can't seem to find it on the MIPS website though. I wasn't aware of the redesign of the MOSFET block though so thanks for the info









I'll be comparing the two blocks as well. It will be interesting to see what sort of performance we both get but at the end of the day it may come down to fitting placement for me.

Oh and BTW great build, subscribed


----------



## WebsterXC

Crazy amounts of sleeving+spray paint+ food pictures= subbed.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Crazy amounts of sleeving+spray paint+ food pictures= subbed.


Speaking of which, it's been a while since Chris sent us a picture of wine.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mainsil*
> 
> Subscribed because I'm tired of losing my place in this massive thread. I've been toying with the idea of taking the plunge into water cooling for my next rig and found your log a few weeks ago and have been reading it daily ever since. Your build log has been massively entertaining and informative. I've also been really impressed with the maturity level of most of the posters and your good sense of humor.
> I thought I should also say, thanks cpachris for sharing your project, and thanks to cpachris and almost everyone else here for making this thread fun and entertaining.


Very kind words, Mainsil. Thank you and welcome to OCN. Another first time poster!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Wow Chris! Looks like OU may be BCS bound, congrats!


If we can get someone to beat K-State...I think we might be able to sneak in. Maybe even the championship. Will take a little bit of help though. You have to imagine the powers in charge will want the SEC and the Big 12 winners in the final game.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soth*
> 
> I've spoken to Michael at MIPS and ordered a Nickel\POM AE11 block in addition to nateman_doo's custom block. I can't seem to find it on the MIPS website though. I wasn't aware of the redesign of the MOSFET block though so thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be comparing the two blocks as well. It will be interesting to see what sort of performance we both get but at the end of the day it may come down to fitting placement for me.
> Oh and BTW great build, subscribed


I've been dealing with Michael also....very helpful. Here are some additional pictures he sent me regarding fitting placement. It looks like you can fit 3/4 OD compression fittings between cards 1 and 2....so you should be able to go true 4-way SLI for those so inclined.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Crazy amounts of sleeving+spray paint+ food pictures= subbed.


Welcome Webster!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Speaking of which, it's been a while since Chris sent us a picture of whine.


Here is some "whine" for you.


----------



## stren

Nice that was my concern with that block. How much clearance do you have to the 2nd card, it looks like a backplate may not fit with those fittings?

Still debating whether to get rid of my flakey R4E when I'm done with block testing and go with the Ex11. It's a pricey upgrade given that I'm only running 580's and presumably will see no difference until I upgrade GPUs.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here is some "whine" for you.


Sorry, typo, I meant wine. Was it cabernet?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Nice that was my concern with that block. How much clearance do you have to the 2nd card, it looks like a backplate may not fit with those fittings?
> Still debating whether to get rid of my flakey R4E when I'm done with block testing and go with the Ex11. It's a pricey upgrade given that I'm only running 580's and presumably will see no difference until I upgrade GPUs.


Yeah, it looks like a backplate on any card in slot #3 would not be possible. I'l confirm when I get it. But if you used some type of fittings extender, I'll be you could get away with a backplate still. Will post pictures once its here. Mips has said it will ship this week.

I have no experience with the RIVE, so I can't really compare. But the AE11 is a huge step up from my previous X58 board. Love the UEFI, and the auto overclock settings took me up to a stable 4.6 Ghz without even having to tinker with it. Didn't want to try more on air. I'll play more with overclocking once loop is done.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Sorry, typo, I meant wine. Was it cabernet?


Just having some fun with ya. Love cabs and zins. Don't drink a lot of whites. I'll celebrate finishing up these fan power harnesses I'm working on right now with another glass, and memorialize it with a picture.


----------



## cpachris

Picture update on power harness for fans.

It's been awhile since I posted an update with any real progress, and there have been multiple reasons why. I've RMA'd a motherboard and received a new one. I've RMA'd the first of my two 32GB memory sets, and if this solves the memory errors I'm getting, I'll do the second one shortly. First 32GB kit is supposed to arrive today, so I should know within another day if this one can pass memtest86 without errors.

But the other reason its been so long since I've made some real progress, is I've changed my mind several times on how to do the power harnesses for the fans. My first approach was going to be like many builds that I've seen here on OCN, ...where all of the fans on a single harness are soldered together so that there is only one fan connector (female) on the whole power harness. The positives of this approach are that it is super clean looking, and it minimizes the amount of wires necessary, ...which should make cable management easier. I've seen some really slick examples of this approach in the build logs here on OCN. It requires soldering, which will scare away some. I found the hardest part was using some clamps to hold back the sleeving while I worked on the solder joins. Awkward....even with a helping hands tool. I started doing this approach initially, and made it through 1 power harness with 8 connections for my top 480 rads. It took awhile to do. I'm not showing pictures of this process since there are already some very good build logs covering how to do this. You can check out asg's build log for an excellent picture tutorial.

So after I had spent the time making this power harness, I plugged it in...and to my dismay, it must have had a connection come loose. The first 3 fans on the harness worked, but the last 5 were not spinning. That brings up the biggest negative to this approach on doing the power harnesses. If you have something go wrong....you are going to have to completely redo that section of the harness, and pull out your solder gun, clamps, new sleeve, new heatshrink, etc. It was a pain. But I redid everything around this one connection, resleeved, reheatshrinked.....and when I plugged it back in....everything was spinning again. Success! However, a couple of days later I heard a pretty faint ticking noise coming from one of the fans. I wanted to pull it off and check to make sure the fan blades were clicked into place properly...and maybe even lube it again. That brought to light another huge negative with using this approach to making a power harness. You can't remove one fan from the radiator....since they are all wired together. You have to remove ALL fans. Frustrating. So that got me thinking about other maintenance issues. If I stuck with this approach, anytime I wanted to remove a fan from a radiator, I was going to have to remove all of them connected to that power harness. Anytime I wanted to replace a fan, I was going to have to cut the power harness and the resolder, sleeve, and shrink it. I went ahead and decided at that point to scrap all the work I had done so far, and to start over with a different approach that would hopefully be a little easier for long-term maintenance.

My second approach involved using individual male fan connectors attached to various points along a single power harness. This would allow me to simply plug-in individual fans to the power harness anywhere I had made a connection. The picture below is an example of what I was doing with this approach:



To move to this second approach, I had to put back on the female connectors that had originally been on each fan before I removed them to solder wires together for the first approach. So that was a little project just by itself. And redoing something you have already done, is never as much fun as doing it the first time around. But I got through it, and started on the harness. Those are hooded male fan connectors coming off of the harness. The positives of this approach were that it solved the problem of not being able to remove an individual fan. Since each fan was joined to the power harness individually by simply plugging in the fan's female connector to the power harness' male connector.....I could easily take off one fan, or multiple fans, without having to redo any of the wiring or sleeving. Nice. However, it still required doing splices and soldering connections while pushing back sleeving and holding it with clamps. I would rate my solder skills somewhere around a 4 out of 10. And its never much fun to do something you are not real good at.

So....I scrapped this approach after making it through the first power harness. I decided to try something different. For this third approach, I went with a "no solder or splice" approach. This approach involved crimping double wires onto each male fan connector pin...and simply daisy chaining the male connectors together. It was very simple to do...and solves all the issues I had with the first two approaches. It allows removal of individual fans without redoing any wiring. It also allows redoing indivdual connections without cutting or soldering or resleeving. I would still have to redo the heatshrink if I ever need to go in and fix an individual connection....but I can live with that. Should have very little maintenance work on these going forward. And since I'll be using this case for a long time....I really don't want to have to be continually working on power harnesses.

So here are some pictures of making the daisy chain male fan connector power harness:

First decide how far apart you want to space the male fan connectors. Then cut plenty of strips of wire in the right size. I'm using 22 awg white wire. I'm using white because it will go inside white sleeve, and this will save me from having to tape it. However, ...I will need to carefully keep track of which wire needs to go in which hole since I won't be able to rely on color of wire. I'm using 22 awg because I find it much easier to work with than the super thin 26 awg. Take two wires and strip off a few millimeters of insulation from one end:



Then get one of the male fan connector pins. This is what they look like:




The you can start crimping pins onto the ends of two wires. You have to carefully put both wires into the crimper without letting one slide backwards from the other wires. You really need the ends lined up perfectly to get a good crimp on double wires with these pins. The male fan connector pins have relatively small fins to clamp down on insulation, before the fins that fold down on the bare wire start. If one wires moves even a little as you put them inside the crimper opening, you will not get a good crimp. I had about an 85% success rate on getting a good crimp the first try. If you don't get a good one...just remove it and start again.




These are the male fan connectors. Once you have crimped pins on your wires, you can just slide the pin inside the connector and it will click into place. Very similar to doing ATX pins.





Then I used some little bits of red tape to mark which wire was what (since they are all white). Need to do this before putting sleeve on, in case the wires get turned around inside of the sleeve.



Then you are ready to cut some sleeve and slide it on the end where you are going to add another connector. I always waited to strip insulation from this end of the wire until after I had the sleeve on already. Otherwise, it was too easy to catch individual wires on the sleeve and break them off while pushing the sleeve on.



Next comes to the trickiest part. You need to push back the sleeve enough so that you have room to crimp new pins onto this end of the wire. I found that if I loaded the crimper with a pin first...and then set the crimper down, ...that I could get the sleeve where I wanted it and line up the wires so that I could hold this into place with my left hand. Then I would pick up the crimper with my right, and I could complete the crimp without needing any "helping hands" tools or clamps. That kept me moving much more quickly.



Once you have your pins on....just click on another connector. Rinse and repeat for as many connections as you need on the power harness.



This is what mine looked like after getting 8 male connections added. Notice that I haven't put on heatshrink at this point, because I wanted to test it first and make sure it was working before I finished making it pretty. It worked!



Here are some pics after putting the heatshrink on. Notice that I have all 3 pins in this very first connector on the power harness....



...but only 2 pins on the next connector...and every subsequent connector. Since I'll be using the AQ5 to read the rpm's, I only want one fan to be returning a signal. There are only two wires connecting each male connector AFTER the first one on the power harness.



Here is what the power harness looks like for the top 480's in pull. I'm doing a separate harness for the push fans vs the pull fans. The harness just runs right down the middle of these pull fans, and each fan plugs into it nicely. I may end up using some cable clips to secure the harness to the case...although it doesn't really move around at all even like it is.




The female end of the top 480 pull power harness comes in from the top of the case and attaches to the strip I've made for the PA2's (far right PA2 in this picture). Just a single sleeved section of wire for all 8 fans. Keeps it looking very clean inside. I've also finished my second power harness for the push fans on the top 480's. It is almost completely hidden behind the PA2 strip...but if you look closely you will see parts of it in the picture below.



So now I have 18 of my 53 fans powered up and spinning. That's 8 push fans on the top 480's, 8 pull fans on the top 480's, ...and the 2 fans in the PSU's. That's 34% of the fans powered up. And although this seemed like it took me forever....now that I have my approach solidified, I don't think it will take too long to finish the power harnesses for the rest of the fans. Although...I still need to paint about 12 of the fans first. Since I've posted pics of my approach already now, I'll probably just post updates that tell how many fans I've gotten done. I'm trying hard to finish all wiring within the next week...because all of my loop parts should be here within the next 10 days or so. All blocks have been ordered. I'll be anxious to start the loop once I have it all...which means I need to knock out this fan work.

Thanks for sticking with me this long!


----------



## nathanak21

Wow. Lookin good!


----------



## JaRi

looks like pure awesomeness!!









wish i could afford and had the skills for making my own wires!


----------



## Stuuut

Fingers crossed on the new RAM sticks


----------



## mandrix

I also chose to keep the female fan connectors on each fan, and make each harness with male hooded connectors. There are two harness' in the pedestal and they and the fan wires are secured with clamps. Neither harness is sleeved but tucked under the top lip each side of the ped. From there sleeved wires run up to the case and back out to the HDD area on the SM8 where another harness picks up all the case fans. From there everything gets run back into the case and to the AQ5. All gets complicated trying to explain it but you get the idea I think.

Unlike you I had problems with the hooded male fan connector pins. For some reason they were a pita to get to lock in correctly and I had to redo several of them and pretty much used up all my pins.
Although all that is showing looks alright I guess, I will probably be redoing some of it when I go back into the pedestal later on.

anyway yours is looking good.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanak21*
> 
> Wow. Lookin good!


Thanks nathanak21!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaRi*
> 
> looks like pure awesomeness!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wish i could afford and had the skills for making my own wires!


Appreciate the kind words. It's not expensive to do your own cables at all. Wire is cheap, pins are cheap, and sleeving can be cheap depending on the brand. Give it a try!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Fingers crossed on the new RAM sticks


Got em' today. Will be leaving memtest going tonight. I'm crossing my fingers also. I just don't feel comfortable doing much with the build until I know my memory is solid and stable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I also chose to keep the female fan connectors on each fan, and make each harness with male hooded connectors. There are two harness' in the pedestal and they and the fan wires are secured with clamps. Neither harness is sleeved but tucked under the top lip each side of the ped. From there sleeved wires run up to the case and back out to the HDD area on the SM8 where another harness picks up all the case fans. From there everything gets run back into the case and to the AQ5. All gets complicated trying to explain it but you get the idea I think.
> Unlike you I had problems with the hooded male fan connector pins. For some reason they were a pita to get to lock in correctly and I had to redo several of them and pretty much used up all my pins.
> Although all that is showing looks alright I guess, I will probably be redoing some of it when I go back into the pedestal later on.
> anyway yours is looking good.


Working the connections from the ped to the main case....is challenging. Post tips if you come up with some methods that are useful.


----------



## cpachris

The Corsair package came today with the replacement kit for what I sent back through the RMA process. Corsair's RMA process was smooth and easy. After filling out some questions online, I was able to print my RMA authorization, and even a mailing label. Very nice. They processed it quickly. Here are some pics of the package:





It's a different lot # than my previous package, so I'm going to hope that the other lot just had some issues. I'm going to run memtest overnight and see what happens with all 4 sticks in. If no errors, then I'm going to promptly RMA the other 32GB kit. Once I have all 64GB running at rated speeds with no errors...I'll see if I can tweak a little extra out of it. But...I'll be happy if I can get all 64GB running at 1,866.


----------



## stren

Nice work - it came out very cleanly in the end


----------



## Systemlord

Wow what a work of art, those white harnesses looks fabulous! It's one thing to sleeve a wire it's a another to actually make the wire orderly!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks nathanak21!
> Appreciate the kind words. It's not expensive to do your own cables at all. Wire is cheap, pins are cheap, and sleeving can be cheap depending on the brand. Give it a try!
> Got em' today. Will be leaving memtest going tonight. I'm crossing my fingers also. I just don't feel comfortable doing much with the build until I know my memory is solid and stable.
> Working the connections from the ped to the main case....is challenging. *Post tips if you come up with some methods that are useful*.


I don't know if I have anything useful for you, I have the 120.4 fan holes/blanks in the bottom of my case, I drilled a 7/8" hole in one of the blanks and inserted a grommet and ran the wiring from the pedestal into the case. Pretty much the only way I could figure out to do it on my rig.
I had wanted to bring the wiring up by the back side door, but that would have meant notching out the top lip on the ped.For this reason alone (wiring) if I had designed the SM8 I would have sacrificed a little area in the main case to widen the area behind the mobo tray/hdd mounting area, or made some sort of pass-through on the edge of the pedestal. IF it would not have compromised structural integrity.
The Case Labs folks are coming up with a new design for drop in radiator mounts for the SM8 ped and asked if I would test it out. Of course, I said I would. Have no idea how much/little they are going to change the pedestal design, but it should be interesting and I'm more than willing to help out.

Good luck with the ram! I had one experience with Corsair RMA and their process is pretty streamlined compared to others.


----------



## linkdiablo

How much wiring do you have to pass through the case into the pedestal? An idea popped in my head but I think it would be better suited for a small number of cables. You could embed your cable connectors in the case, showing on the underside. I think it could a a modular approach to your solving your problem.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Nice work - it came out very cleanly in the end


Thanks Stren. I'll post a picture of my copper plated Iceforce over in your CPU round up thread when I get it. Should be soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Wow what a work of art, those white harnesses looks fabulous! It's one thing to sleeve a wire it's a another to actually make the wire orderly!


Much appreciated Systemlord.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> The Case Labs folks are coming up with a new design for drop in radiator mounts for the SM8 ped and asked if I would test it out. Of course, I said I would. Have no idea how much/little they are going to change the pedestal design, but it should be interesting and I'm more than willing to help out.
> Good luck with the ram! I had one experience with Corsair RMA and their process is pretty streamlined compared to others.


Congrats on being a tester on the new CL rad mounts! Love that company and their products.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> How much wiring do you have to pass through the case into the pedestal? An idea popped in my head but I think it would be better suited for a small number of cables. You could embed your cable connectors in the case, showing on the underside. I think it could a a modular approach to your solving your problem.


Hmmmmmmm. Making me think. Keep talking. Flush out your idea more so I can get on the same page.


----------



## Stuuut

So Chris how did the memory test? Everything working now with the new sticks?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> So Chris how did the memory test? Everything working now with the new sticks?


Dont' jinx it!









Few glasses of cabernet last night, and I forgot about putting the new memory in to test.









So....I put the 4 new sticks in this morning and started it. It's been running about 6.5 hours with no errors so far. But...it has not even completed the second pass yet. Testing 32GB of memory just takes a lot longer than lower density memory. And from my previous tests, I found that I could get through 2 passes successfully sometimes, and still have it error on the 3rd. So....I won't call it good until I've gotten through 4 passes error free. Should know by late this evening.


----------



## mosi

Keeping fingers crossed for your memory tests, hopefully this time around the kit is good to go.

That fan daisy chaining is looking good! Still really clean and bonus points for thinking about maintenance.







Actually I wish other people had the same insight with only using one 3 pin connector for the whole chain. A while ago I bought a daisy chained fan cable from Bitfenix and they were so generous and threw in 3 pin connectors for all the fans on the chain.


----------



## Stuuut

We need more pictures Chris....








Maybe just a general update of everything you have righ now would be cool then atleast we have something to watch trough again.
Also you should put your build into your profile would be cool to see that


----------



## TheHarvman313

Chris, are you sure that you're a cpa and not an engineer?! You come up with some great ideas to design solutions to problems. Thinking about maintenance of the fans while making those wiring harnesses... BRILLIANT!!!!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> How much wiring do you have to pass through the case into the pedestal? An idea popped in my head but I think it would be better suited for a small number of cables. You could embed your cable connectors in the case, showing on the underside. I think it could a a modular approach to your solving your problem.


I can't speak for Chris, but from my pedestal I have 6 sleeved wires running to the case. That's two sets of 8 fans, picking up rpm signal off one fan in each group. There are a few small holes that transfer between the two, but not enough in the same location. Easiest way for me was to cut a hole in a fan blank for the pass through. I could have put another hole in the center where my bulkhead fittings transfer the coolant back and forth but discarded that idea since I didn't think it would look good.


----------



## TPE-331

Chris, that is a beautiful power harness.







Now that you are done with yours, you can get started on mine.







Keep up the good work man, this is super exciting.


----------



## linkdiablo

I'm not sure I have a perfect build layout in mind (don't hold not remembering where everything is in your log against me) but I envisionned it as a (group if multiple readouts will come from the pedestal) connector, probably located behind your PSUs (or other discrete and convenient location). At your discretion it can be a double connector that would allow you to unplug the pedestal's fan from the pedestal side or the computer's side (not sure why you would want to do the second option, but hey!) or it can be a cable fixed to the floor.

It would be similar to a "quick disconnect" for your fan harness. If the modding works as I think it would, you would have a (few) small rectangular cutouts at the site of connection. Since the case will sometimes have to be off the pedestal, I won't suggest clipping two female to either side of the cutout. A second look at you power harness made me realise that your males are bigger than females and might be more suited to be fixed to the bottom of the case as the "quick disconnect". The obvious quick'n dirty way to fix them to the desired location would be hot glue, but if the item exist, a fan header grommet could be a clean way to do it (I'm not sure if they're done in white, but I guess that can be arrangeable). In the event of fan header grommet not existing, I think it can be improvised from sidepanel lining ... I'm pretty sure I've seen a few people on OCN make custom window jobs on their builds.


----------



## mandrix

If I'm following you correctly, that's what I did. Fan blank in bottom of case has drilled 7/8" hole/grommet for pass through of two sets of three wires, which are connected to the fan harnesses in the pedestal and run to the AQ5.

Anyways back to BBBB and the fantastic harness maker, cpahris, whom I need to ship me three each sleeved harness ASAP.


----------



## cpachris

Success! More than 24 hours later, and now on its 6th pass, this new batch of memory tests with zero errors. I'm going to call it good.











It actually gives me a lot of relief that it truly was the memory that was bad. I had already tried the memory in a second board, and got the same errors. I was starting to worry it might be some sort of weird incompatibility issue with the board and the memory. Relieved that is was simply bad memory. It had just seemed so implausible that 6 of my 8 sticks were really bad.

Which brings me to my conclusion....if you are using Dominator GT 1,866 Mhz memory...you might want to check your lot number on the sticker. I purchased 8 of these sticks, and 6 of them will throw errors in memtest86. There must have been something bad with this batch of memory. 6 of 8 sticks can not be an isolated coincidence. My lot # on the bad sticks was 122913592 ver 3.24. If you have some sticks from this same batch...you should test them.



They were purchased in July of this year from Newegg. As I said previously....Corsair has a first rate RMA process.

Next step...RMA the 2nd of the 32GB kits, and then get all 64GB running at rated speed, ...before trying a little tweaking.


----------



## Stuuut

Good to hear its working now


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Here's pic of the pass through from pedestal to case for the wiring, located in the front fan blank of the case floor,


The way I think about it instead of cables running through to the pedestal, the grommet would serve as a mounting device for a male fan header (or multiple ones, there's a lot of fans inside). I think that would result in a cleaner look. Also the cutout has to be the same shape and size as the header(s) plus the framing grommet.

Edit: Merry RAM, good to know one half of your memory problems is solved.


----------



## 3930K

Run blend??? I think that it's better than memtest.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Good to hear its working now


Thanks. It feels good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Run blend??? I think that it's better than memtest.


How do you define better? If you're talking about blend mode on Prime95...I've always thought of that more as a stability test once you have dialed in some oc settings. It doesn't tell you what failed or why....it will just fail if you have something not stable in your current settings. Memtest tells me exactly what failed with the memory. I'll be doing some Prime95 testing later to test stability.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> The way I think about it instead of cables running through to the pedestal, the grommet would serve as a mounting device for a male fan header (or multiple ones, there's a lot of fans inside). I think that would result in a cleaner look. Also the cutout has to be the same shape and size as the header(s) plus the framing grommet.
> Edit: Merry RAM, good to know one half of your memory problems is solved.


I think I follow what you are talking about....and I think I like it. Haven't seen that approach taken before. Might be a challenge to do it though. Once the case is sitting on top of the pedestal, you can't really reach in and do any connections that are in the pedestal. So the connections on the underside of whatever is used as the mounting device, need to be done before sitting the case on top of the pedestal. And unless you want some extra long cables inside the pedestal that will allow lifting the case off first and then undoing the connections....the mounting device will need to be attached to the pedestal....not the case. I'd have to think about the best way to attach it, but I can picture some type of plate attached to the top of the pedestal that has the fan connections embedded, and maybe a pass through fitting connection also for the tubing. There would need to be a cutout in the main case floor that allowed this plate to come up through the cutout.

Then, whenever you wanted to remove the case from the pedestal, you would simply unplug any power harness directly from the plate and the lift the case off. No long wires to feed back down through a hole. Is that kind of what you are talking about?


----------



## 3930K

Eh, I just heard blend was harder on the memory if you run it with it as max'd as possible.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I think I follow what you are talking about....and I think I like it. Haven't seen that approach taken before. Might be a challenge to do it though. Once the case is sitting on top of the pedestal, you can't really reach in and do any connections that are in the pedestal. So the connections on the underside of whatever is used as the mounting device, need to be done before sitting the case on top of the pedestal. And unless you want some extra long cables inside the pedestal that will allow lifting the case off first and then undoing the connections....the mounting device will need to be attached to the pedestal....not the case. I'd have to think about the best way to attach it, but I can picture some type of plate attached to the top of the pedestal that has the fan connections embedded, and maybe a pass through fitting connection also for the tubing. There would need to be a cutout in the main case floor that allowed this plate to come up through the cutout.
> Then, whenever you wanted to remove the case from the pedestal, you would simply unplug any power harness directly from the plate and the lift the case off. No long wires to feed back down through a hole. Is that kind of what you are talking about?


That's exactly what I had in mind, I was a bit off since I lacked the details about the pedestal no having the option to disconnect the harness without lifting the computer.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> That's exactly what I had in mind, I was a bit off since I lacked the details about the pedestal no having the option to disconnect the harness without lifting the computer.


Excellent idea. I'll need to noodle on it to figure out the best way to implement...but I love the idea.


----------



## miahallen

memtest is harder on the memory, blend is better for testing IMC stability...after you test all the memory with memtest, if you have trouble passing blend, you know you have an IMC stability issue


----------



## NOCA

You should check out the PC-Beto mod from p0pe, he does a similar passthrough of the fan connectors, although this is through the mobo-tray. You can see his solution on this page of his worklog:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=178681&highlight=beto&page=6

You could probably PM him about his work, he is currently doing a build log with a caselabs m8 here on ocn:http://www.overclock.net/t/998312/sponsored-project-m8-caselabs-m8-workstation-build


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miahallen*
> 
> memtest is harder on the memory, blend is better for testing IMC stability...after you test all the memory with memtest, if you have trouble passing blend, you know you have an IMC stability issue


Agreed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOCA*
> 
> You should check out the PC-Beto mod from p0pe, he does a similar passthrough of the fan connectors, although this is through the mobo-tray. You can see his solution on this page of his worklog:
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=178681&highlight=beto&page=6
> You could probably PM him about his work, he is currently doing a build log with a caselabs m8 here on ocn:http://www.overclock.net/t/998312/sponsored-project-m8-caselabs-m8-workstation-build


I had seen the build log he has here on OCN. But I hadn't seen the Beto build. You're right....he is doing exactly what linkdiablo was describing. I probably can't make it as clean as p0pe's. He has too many toys to play with.







But it is the same general idea. Thanks for the link.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Agreed.
> I had seen the build log he has here on OCN. But I hadn't seen the Beto build. You're right....he is doing exactly what linkdiablo was describing. I probably can't make it as clean as p0pe's. He has too many toys to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it is the same general idea. Thanks for the link.


Looks neat, and you can probably pull it off with your case. For mine, if I did that I would still have a bunch of wires running through the case.But I have the pedestal fan wires coming up near the corner and honestly I haven't tidied anything up yet, since I'm far from finished.
If I don't like the way it looks when I'm finished, I have some good acrylic and aluminum sheet sitting in my shop. I've already thought about boxing a corner in sometime in the future as a wire raceway.


----------



## Systemlord

You bought your memory long before I did and your version is newer than mine, I've never had an issue with my Dominators. Glad you got it all figured out!


----------



## mandrix

Want to stretch your budget a little more and get your own 3D printer for some cool mods? The buzz is that for around $2500 this will deliver a 25 micron layer capable process.Think of all the cool stuff you could make.







Max work size is listed at 4.9 x 4.9 x 6.5 inches. You will still need a CAD program to input the designs.
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/formlabs/form-1-an-affordable-professional-3d-printer


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> You bought your memory long before I did and your version is newer than mine, I've never had an issue with my Dominators. Glad you got it all figured out!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The 4GB sticks may have different version #'s than the 8GB sticks. Not sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Want to stretch your budget a little more and get your own 3D printer for some cool mods? The buzz is that for around $2500 this will deliver a 25 micron layer capable process.Think of all the cool stuff you could make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Max work size is listed at 4.9 x 4.9 x 6.5 inches. You will still need a CAD program to input the designs.
> http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/formlabs/form-1-an-affordable-professional-3d-printer


That's pretty slick. Will have to put that on my Christmas list.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Picture update on power harness for fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: So Clean!
> 
> 
> 
> It's been awhile since I posted an update with any real progress, and there have been multiple reasons why. I've RMA'd a motherboard and received a new one. I've RMA'd the first of my two 32GB memory sets, and if this solves the memory errors I'm getting, I'll do the second one shortly. First 32GB kit is supposed to arrive today, so I should know within another day if this one can pass memtest86 without errors.
> But the other reason its been so long since I've made some real progress, is I've changed my mind several times on how to do the power harnesses for the fans. My first approach was going to be like many builds that I've seen here on OCN, ...where all of the fans on a single harness are soldered together so that there is only one fan connector (female) on the whole power harness. The positives of this approach are that it is super clean looking, and it minimizes the amount of wires necessary, ...which should make cable management easier. I've seen some really slick examples of this approach in the build logs here on OCN. It requires soldering, which will scare away some. I found the hardest part was using some clamps to hold back the sleeving while I worked on the solder joins. Awkward....even with a helping hands tool. I started doing this approach initially, and made it through 1 power harness with 8 connections for my top 480 rads. It took awhile to do. I'm not showing pictures of this process since there are already some very good build logs covering how to do this. You can check out asg's build log for an excellent picture tutorial.
> So after I had spent the time making this power harness, I plugged it in...and to my dismay, it must have had a connection come loose. The first 3 fans on the harness worked, but the last 5 were not spinning. That brings up the biggest negative to this approach on doing the power harnesses. If you have something go wrong....you are going to have to completely redo that section of the harness, and pull out your solder gun, clamps, new sleeve, new heatshrink, etc. It was a pain. But I redid everything around this one connection, resleeved, reheatshrinked.....and when I plugged it back in....everything was spinning again. Success! However, a couple of days later I heard a pretty faint ticking noise coming from one of the fans. I wanted to pull it off and check to make sure the fan blades were clicked into place properly...and maybe even lube it again. That brought to light another huge negative with using this approach to making a power harness. You can't remove one fan from the radiator....since they are all wired together. You have to remove ALL fans. Frustrating. So that got me thinking about other maintenance issues. If I stuck with this approach, anytime I wanted to remove a fan from a radiator, I was going to have to remove all of them connected to that power harness. Anytime I wanted to replace a fan, I was going to have to cut the power harness and the resolder, sleeve, and shrink it. I went ahead and decided at that point to scrap all the work I had done so far, and to start over with a different approach that would hopefully be a little easier for long-term maintenance.
> My second approach involved using individual male fan connectors attached to various points along a single power harness. This would allow me to simply plug-in individual fans to the power harness anywhere I had made a connection. The picture below is an example of what I was doing with this approach:
> 
> To move to this second approach, I had to put back on the female connectors that had originally been on each fan before I removed them to solder wires together for the first approach. So that was a little project just by itself. And redoing something you have already done, is never as much fun as doing it the first time around. But I got through it, and started on the harness. Those are hooded male fan connectors coming off of the harness. The positives of this approach were that it solved the problem of not being able to remove an individual fan. Since each fan was joined to the power harness individually by simply plugging in the fan's female connector to the power harness' male connector.....I could easily take off one fan, or multiple fans, without having to redo any of the wiring or sleeving. Nice. However, it still required doing splices and soldering connections while pushing back sleeving and holding it with clamps. I would rate my solder skills somewhere around a 4 out of 10. And its never much fun to do something you are not real good at.
> So....I scrapped this approach after making it through the first power harness. I decided to try something different. For this third approach, I went with a "no solder or splice" approach. This approach involved crimping double wires onto each male fan connector pin...and simply daisy chaining the male connectors together. It was very simple to do...and solves all the issues I had with the first two approaches. It allows removal of individual fans without redoing any wiring. It also allows redoing indivdual connections without cutting or soldering or resleeving. I would still have to redo the heatshrink if I ever need to go in and fix an individual connection....but I can live with that. Should have very little maintenance work on these going forward. And since I'll be using this case for a long time....I really don't want to have to be continually working on power harnesses.
> So here are some pictures of making the daisy chain male fan connector power harness:
> First decide how far apart you want to space the male fan connectors. Then cut plenty of strips of wire in the right size. I'm using 22 awg white wire. I'm using white because it will go inside white sleeve, and this will save me from having to tape it. However, ...I will need to carefully keep track of which wire needs to go in which hole since I won't be able to rely on color of wire. I'm using 22 awg because I find it much easier to work with than the super thin 26 awg. Take two wires and strip off a few millimeters of insulation from one end:
> 
> Then get one of the male fan connector pins. This is what they look like:
> 
> 
> The you can start crimping pins onto the ends of two wires. You have to carefully put both wires into the crimper without letting one slide backwards from the other wires. You really need the ends lined up perfectly to get a good crimp on double wires with these pins. The male fan connector pins have relatively small fins to clamp down on insulation, before the fins that fold down on the bare wire start. If one wires moves even a little as you put them inside the crimper opening, you will not get a good crimp. I had about an 85% success rate on getting a good crimp the first try. If you don't get a good one...just remove it and start again.
> 
> 
> These are the male fan connectors. Once you have crimped pins on your wires, you can just slide the pin inside the connector and it will click into place. Very similar to doing ATX pins.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used some little bits of red tape to mark which wire was what (since they are all white). Need to do this before putting sleeve on, in case the wires get turned around inside of the sleeve.
> 
> Then you are ready to cut some sleeve and slide it on the end where you are going to add another connector. I always waited to strip insulation from this end of the wire until after I had the sleeve on already. Otherwise, it was too easy to catch individual wires on the sleeve and break them off while pushing the sleeve on.
> 
> Next comes to the trickiest part. You need to push back the sleeve enough so that you have room to crimp new pins onto this end of the wire. I found that if I loaded the crimper with a pin first...and then set the crimper down, ...that I could get the sleeve where I wanted it and line up the wires so that I could hold this into place with my left hand. Then I would pick up the crimper with my right, and I could complete the crimp without needing any "helping hands" tools or clamps. That kept me moving much more quickly.
> 
> Once you have your pins on....just click on another connector. Rinse and repeat for as many connections as you need on the power harness.
> 
> This is what mine looked like after getting 8 male connections added. Notice that I haven't put on heatshrink at this point, because I wanted to test it first and make sure it was working before I finished making it pretty. It worked!
> 
> Here are some pics after putting the heatshrink on. Notice that I have all 3 pins in this very first connector on the power harness....
> 
> ...but only 2 pins on the next connector...and every subsequent connector. Since I'll be using the AQ5 to read the rpm's, I only want one fan to be returning a signal. There are only two wires connecting each male connector AFTER the first one on the power harness.
> 
> Here is what the power harness looks like for the top 480's in pull. I'm doing a separate harness for the push fans vs the pull fans. The harness just runs right down the middle of these pull fans, and each fan plugs into it nicely. I may end up using some cable clips to secure the harness to the case...although it doesn't really move around at all even like it is.
> 
> 
> The female end of the top 480 pull power harness comes in from the top of the case and attaches to the strip I've made for the PA2's (far right PA2 in this picture). Just a single sleeved section of wire for all 8 fans. Keeps it looking very clean inside. I've also finished my second power harness for the push fans on the top 480's. It is almost completely hidden behind the PA2 strip...but if you look closely you will see parts of it in the picture below.
> 
> So now I have 18 of my 53 fans powered up and spinning. That's 8 push fans on the top 480's, 8 pull fans on the top 480's, ...and the 2 fans in the PSU's. That's 34% of the fans powered up. And although this seemed like it took me forever....now that I have my approach solidified, I don't think it will take too long to finish the power harnesses for the rest of the fans. Although...I still need to paint about 12 of the fans first. Since I've posted pics of my approach already now, I'll probably just post updates that tell how many fans I've gotten done. I'm trying hard to finish all wiring within the next week...because all of my loop parts should be here within the next 10 days or so. All blocks have been ordered. I'll be anxious to start the loop once I have it all...which means I need to knock out this fan work.
> 
> 
> Thanks for sticking with me this long!


I love updates like these. The cabling is superb


----------



## TheHarvman313

Wow p0pe certainly does some imaginative mods!! I've been following his incredible log here but that Beto build looks amazing!!! Such a great idea too!!!


----------



## mosi

When I first read about this socket thingy I thought it could add an interesting look to use unusual plug types for the connection. Something along the lines of mini XLR (mount , plug) for each harness or so. On second read, the fan connector that p0pe uses looks quite slick.

Dunno, just some random thought that fell out of the void between my ears


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> You bought your memory long before I did and your version is newer than mine, I've never had an issue with my Dominators. Glad you got it all figured out!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 4GB sticks may have different version #'s than the 8GB sticks. Not sure.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Want to stretch your budget a little more and get your own 3D printer for some cool mods? The buzz is that for around $2500 this will deliver a 25 micron layer capable process.Think of all the cool stuff you could make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Max work size is listed at 4.9 x 4.9 x 6.5 inches. You will still need a CAD program to input the designs.
> http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/formlabs/form-1-an-affordable-professional-3d-printer
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's pretty slick. Will have to put that on my Christmas list.
Click to expand...

YES!


----------



## cpachris

I won a free Kingston 240gb SSD in the monthly give away on theSSDreview.com this month. First time to enter....all I had to do was make a post. I would encourage you all to enter. I don't think they are getting a ton of entries right now. Puts the odds "forever in your favor".

The Announcement


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I won a free Kingston 240gb SSD in the monthly give away on theSSDreview.com this month. First time to enter....all I had to do was make a post. I would encourage you all to enter. I don't think they are getting a ton of entries right now. Puts the odds "forever in your favor".
> The Announcement


Canada and USA only as always









Rest of us always get left out....


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Canada and USA only as always
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of us always get left out....


You could move to "the land of the free and the home of the brave".


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> You could move to "the land of the free and the home of the brave".


Going on holiday there in December







maybe i can enter that month and pick it up


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Going on holiday there in December
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe i can enter that month and pick it up


Where are you visiting?


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Where are you visiting?


1 week Miami with christmas and 1 week Las Vegas with new year







not the most cultural places but gonna be fun anyways


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> 1 week Miami with christmas and 1 week Las Vegas with new year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not the most cultural places but gonna be fun anyways


Vegas over the New Year.....nice. Do you guys get "Pawn Stars" in the Netherlands? If so, you HAVE to visit that pawn shop while in Vegas.


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Vegas over the New Year.....nice. Do you guys get "Pawn Stars" in the Netherlands? If so, you HAVE to visit that pawn shop while in Vegas.


I think so... well we have a show named Pawn Stars in the Netherlands don't know if its the one from Vegas tough. Its with the Bald dude his Father and his Kid and some clumsy dude.
Anyways why do i HAVE to visit it? Never really watched the show.....


----------



## TheHarvman313

Yeah that is the show he's talking about. It's actually a pretty interesting show. You can learn some neat historical facts by watching it. Good luck gambling in Vegas. It's always a fun place to visit!!!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> ....and some clumsy dude.


Chumley!


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Chumley!


i think everyone wants to meet chumley


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> i think everyone wants to meet chumley


Next time I'm in Vegas, I'm going to go to the store and take a piece of junk with me....walk right up to Chumley and demand $10,000 for it. Just want to see what he does.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Next time I'm in Vegas, I'm going to go to the store and take a piece of junk with me....walk right up to Chumley and demand $10,000 for it. Just want to see what he does.


you might get $12,000


----------



## Pidoma

I can't quote at work  but that pawn shop is WAY TOO small and the line is WAY TOO long


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Next time I'm in Vegas, I'm going to go to the store and take a piece of junk with me....walk right up to Chumley and demand $10,000 for it. Just want to see what he does.


I'm thinking they don't let Chumley do any 10K deals.







More fun would be the old man, just to see if he says anything or just gives you "the look".


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm thinking they don't let Chumley do any 10K deals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More fun would be the old man, just to see if he says anything or just gives you "the look".


i see chumley offer 100k on a pirate ship float the other day


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Chumley!


Chumley? Are you serious Chris?







That's worse than the nickname "Porkchop" The guy that was on the Ice Road Truckers show this past season.








Were you able to decide how you are going to run your fan cables from the pedestal up into your case? I ran mine with 4 pin molex extensions and two fan distribution blocks blocks mounted in my pedestal. I use an electric overhead crane that is mounted on the ceiling of my garage to lift the case up off the pedestal to get to everything inside.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Chumley? Are you serious Chris?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's worse than the nickname "Porkchop" The guy that was on the Ice Road Truckers show this past season.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Were you able to decide how you are going to run your fan cables from the pedestal up into your case? I ran mine with 4 pin molex extensions and two fan distribution blocks blocks mounted in my pedestal. I use an electric overhead crane that is mounted on the ceiling of my garage to lift the case up off the pedestal to get to everything inside.


I ended up tuning into a few episodes of Ice Road Truckers. Saw Porkchop get fired. Chumley....is Porkchop times 1,000. Biggest, dumbest, goofiest mess you've ever seen. I'm hoping some of it is just an act for the show.

Still noodling on the pedestal cabling approach. An electric overhead crane??? That, my friend, ....is the definition of overkill. Love it.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I ended up tuning into a few episodes of Ice Road Truckers. Saw Porkchop get fired. Chumley....is Porkchop times 1,000. Biggest, dumbest, goofiest mess you've ever seen. I'm hoping some of it is just an act for the show.
> Still noodling on the pedestal cabling approach. An electric overhead crane??? That, my friend, ....is the definition of overkill. Love it.


The crane I have cost me almost 4k. I'm in the process of restoring a 69 Camaro SS. The crane works well for the TH10 too.







Here's one for ya from Harbor Freight, at $169, it's a bargain.







You need the girlfriend to put this one under the tree this year.









http://www.harborfreight.com/1300-lb-capacity-electric-hoist-2954.html


----------



## barkinos98

bumping this


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> The crane I have cost me almost 4k. I'm in the process of restoring a 69 Camaro SS. The crane works well for the TH10 too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one for ya from Harbor Freight, at $169, it's a bargain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need the girlfriend to put this one under the tree this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/1300-lb-capacity-electric-hoist-2954.html


Let this be a joke, let this be a joke.

...

It's not a joke


----------



## cpachris

Got another fan power harness done. This one will power the 3 fans on the 360 radiator on the motherboard side of the case...in front.



Here it is attached to the radiator fans. For those counting...that makes 21 of 52 fans now powered up. 40%.



Before I put the radiator back in, I went ahead and flushed it using my ghetto sink method. Hook up one hose to the kitchen sink faucet and one port on the radiator. Turn the water on full blast and let it do its thing. This one seemed to be very clean. Didn't see any crap coming out of it at all. I let it run for about 30 minutes.

While the radiator was flushing, I decided to tackle the power connections for the two Aquaero's. First I cut four wires to the length I wanted, and then prepped them for a splice by cutting the insulation where I wanted the spice, and pushing it up:



Then I cut 4 more shorter lengths of wire, and inserted one end into the bare wire I created in the first step, wrapped it around, and then used my solder iron to finish the connection. I then slipped some really small heatshrink around the solder connection and shrunk it for some added strength.



Then I crimped female molex pins on the double end of the wire, and a female ATX pin on the other:



Then I cut the sleeve and used the shrinkless method to secure it to the pins. I also used one final piece of SATA size shrink to cover the splice join in the middle:



Next...insert the molex pins into some black molex connectors:



And then insert the ATX pins into a black six pin PSU connector


And finally...here is what it looks like in the case. You can see the single set of four wires running into the motherboard side from the PSU side, and then the split to both of the Aquaero's. I think it came out real clean. You might also notice that I've separated the AQ5's and put the Lamptron FC8 in the middle of them. When I had the AQ5's right next to each other, there was not enough space to use my 90 degree fittings to do the waterblock connections.



If you look closely, you can also see the new fan power harness connection. It is almost completely hidden behind the radiator, but the very tip of it comes out from behind the radiator and plugs right into the bottom AQ5. Since its white...it blends well. Really can't even see it unless you look for it.

Next up...need to do something with those black USB connections for both of the AQ5's. The way I want to run them, the default cords are too short. I think I might play with using an extender that joins both of the 5 pin USB's into a single 10 pin connection for the motherboard, and then sleeve that.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Your sleeving and soldering skills are becoming elite!!!


----------



## Hattifnatten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Your sleeving and soldering skills are becoming elite!!!


Practice makes perfect


----------



## mandrix

Looking very good, Chris.
I just spent some time (well a lot of time, I'm slow at this) finishing up my power connections to the AQ5 / PA2 as well, once I got straightened out that the AQ5 needed the 5v line....








I made a "Y" setup coming off the psu, one connects the pump and the other is connected to a long "Y" extension I made and sleeved for the AQ5 and PA2. Can't believe I've already used all my blue wire, 100 foot counting pieces I had to scrap!
Got lots of black and white wire left though.

When I redo my pedestal fans harness I believe I will follow what you did on the daisy chain approach. Looks neater, although no one can see it in the pedestal. Definitely going to redo the connecting lines from the ped harness to the AQ5 with the 22 gauge to cut down on number of wires and just sleeve in groups of three for a total of two wires. What was I thinking running 6 18 gauge wires up from the pedestal.









So the SATA size shrink works good for the soldered Y connections? I've been using 1/4" shrink but I have to spread it a little with the needlenose pliers to slide it over.
The SATA shrink I have came from FTW PC and I'm not sure it will shrink enough, guess I could try it.

Being on a budget I bought a lot of 3:1 1/4" black shrink from Allied Electronics, it's only 58 cents for 4 foot sections. Unfortunately they don't have any other colors in that size, but the price is great.


----------



## dardar

why?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Your sleeving and soldering skills are becoming elite!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> Practice makes perfect


Thanks guys. I still hate to solder, and I'm not real good at small neat joins. But yes...lots of practice, so getting better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> ...Looking very good, Chris.
> 
> ........When I redo my pedestal fans harness I believe I will follow what you did on the daisy chain approach. Looks neater, although no one can see it in the pedestal. Definitely going to redo the connecting lines from the ped harness to the AQ5 with the 22 gauge to cut down on number of wires and just sleeve in groups of three for a total of two wires. What was I thinking running 6 18 gauge wires up from the pedestal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....So the SATA size shrink works good for the soldered Y connections? I've been using 1/4" shrink but I have to spread it a little with the needlenose pliers to slide it over.
> The SATA shrink I have came from FTW PC and I'm not sure it will shrink enough, guess I could try it.
> Being on a budget I bought a lot of 3:1 1/4" black shrink from Allied Electronics, it's only 58 cents for 4 foot sections. Unfortunately they don't have any other colors in that size, but the price is great.


...Thanks Mandrix!

....18 awg for fans, huh? That's pretty extreme.

....Well, the SATA size shrink on Y connections is what I use for the "pretty" final layer. I've found that it does not shrink tight enough to hold small sleeve in place though. On all of these Y's, I'm using the normal small shrink from MDPC for the initial piece. It fits real tight, and shrinks down even tighter. Kind of like you, I'm having to stretch it out before putting it on, but this allows me to get both sides of the Y inside the piece of shrink. But because it is shrinking down so much, you end up seeing the outline of the sleeve, ...or any solder bump you may have, ...or any place not covered by sleeve. It doesn't look smooth. I don't like seeing this. So after the initial small shrink, I put a final piece of the SATA shrink on top of the small shrink. I don't go crazy shrinking this one down. It's not there to hold anything in place...just to cover up the bottom piece of shrink. I don't want it wrapping so tight that I can see the outlines of sleeve underneath it. Try that on your next one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dardar*
> 
> why?


Where? What? When?


----------



## cpachris

Packages from yesterday's mail.



All the stuff....



2x Aquagrafx 690 blocks. These things are heavy! I'll pull these up to the faux studio later for some better shots. They are gorgeous. I'll probably shoot a video of putting these on the video cards also.



First of my two Mips Iceforce CPU blocks. Mips is sending a separate one to me that has been copper plated. For this one, I think I may powdercoat the nickel bracket white. Whichever one I like best stays in the BBBB. The other one gets put in next build. Love the look of these. Chinese throwing stars.



Flexo Pet sleeving. I am NOT a fan of Flexo Pet. But...there is one particular application I am going to use it for in this build. I played around with 6 or 7 different sleeving types, and this one was the best at one thing. I'll leave it at that for now....but promise a full picture spread on what I end up using it for.



Some different USB extenders.



More later....


----------



## TPE-331

Wow Chris, I think I just drooled in my bowl of oatmeal.







Sleeving work looks great.







The 690 block and the MIPS Ice Force are beauties.


----------



## Citra

DAT BLOCK.


----------



## Hattifnatten

That's one sexy block! Though I'm not sure wheather I would wc a 690 (if I had one) or not, it's too damn good-looking


----------



## 3930K

I just pissed myself.

GOLD ICEFORCE


----------



## TheHarvman313

That mips block looks sooo wicked!!! You could probably be arrested for carrying a concealed weapon if you walked around with it in your pocket!!!!!







I'm guessing the copper plated one will look the best. Thoses 690 blocks look nice too!!


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I just pissed myself.
> GOLD ICEFORCE


that looks like its the lighting, but anyway ITS TOO DAMN GREAT


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> That mips block looks sooo wicked!!! You could probably be arrested for carrying a concealed weapon if you walked around with it in your pocket!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing the copper plated one will look the best. Thoses 690 blocks look nice too!!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Wow Chris, I think I just drooled in my bowl of oatmeal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sleeving work looks great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 690 block and the MIPS Ice Force are beauties.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> DAT BLOCK.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> That's one sexy block! Though I'm not sure wheather I would wc a 690 (if I had one) or not, it's too damn good-looking


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> That mips block looks sooo wicked!!! You could probably be arrested for carrying a concealed weapon if you walked around with it in your pocket!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing the copper plated one will look the best. Thoses 690 blocks look nice too!!


Thanks guys. I'm excited about getting closer to putting it under water, and I'm pumped about the blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I just pissed myself.
> GOLD ICEFORCE


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> that looks like its the lighting, but anyway ITS TOO DAMN GREAT


That one was just the normal Iceforce block. No gold coloring. But my copper plated one has been sent, and should arrive on Wednesday. Pic then!


----------



## cpachris

Making a USB extension and splitter.

Ok. In my last update I finished with this shot, and mentioned I'd be working on the USB connections to the Aquaero's next. They are the only black cables left there in the upper part of the front of the case.



What I wanted to do was drop the USB cables straight down the case all the way to the bottom (the harddrive cages (removed for pic) would hide this cable run), and then run them along the bottom until I reach the furthest cutout (the radiator would hide most of this cable run), and then bring it back to the motherboard side there. That would allow me not to have any cable cross over on the motherboard side from the front of the case. I'm trying to keep that area clear and have only the SATA data cables cutting through the front area on the motherboard side.



Well, even though the USB cables supplied with the Aquaero's are pretty long....they are not long enough for my desired cable run. I thought about just buying longer USB cords, but I also wanted to play around with combining these two separate 5 pin USB motherboard connectors...into a single 9 pin connector. Not only would this be cleaner looking, but it is always much easier to plug in larger connectors than smaller ones. So....I ended up getting this 9-pin extension, and I'll join both 5-pin connectors to this to create a single connection for the motherboard.



I thought about "rolling my own" USB cables, but because of the shielding that is part of the cable itself, I didn't want to mess with trying to duplicate that. The extender/adapter seemed the way to go. BUT...I do not want a giant plug connection in the middle of my cable, so I'll need to remove the motherboard connectors and join the extension without using this connector.

For those that haven't played with removing pins on these USB motherboard style connectors....its real easy. I took one of them up into the faux studio, armed with my tripod...to show you how its done. There are little plastic flaps attached to the connector, that fold down into place when the pin is inserted into the connector.



If you push the pins up as far as they can go into the connector, and take an exact knife, you can stick the tip between the plastic flap and the pin. Then just gently lift it up.



Here you can see all 5 plastic flaps lifted up



Once the flaps are pointed upward, you can simply pull the pins out of the connector.



These are what the female USB motherboard connector pins look like.



The Aquacomputer supplied USB cables have this ugly black plastic netting on them......not really sleeve....more of a net. They don't provide any coverage at all. Clearly...they have to go.



After removing all of the pins that I needed.....


I used some white electrical tape to cover the black rubber housing of the USB cables. Can't stress enough that when using white sleeve on a colored object....do something to color the object white first. If not, you will have significant bleed through, and the cables will look different than the other white sleeved cables in your build.



Next I cut some segments of my little tiny heatshrink, and put a piece on each of the connections I needed to make to join the extension to the main cable:



Then I plugged in the male pin side of the extension, to the female pin side of the regular USB cable....



...and then heated up the shrink to secure the connections. All I'm doing here is basically joining the extension to the main cable...without using any of the black plastic connectors. I don't want those in the middle of my cable.



Next comes the sleeve. Nothing to hard here. I used MDPC small sleeve for the two separated ends that will attach to the Aquaero's. But I used MDPC SATA sleeve on the other end, so that both USB cables appear to be just one cable. Fits nicely.



Some heatshrink on the ends....and then a piece where the two separate wires merge into one. Kind of like a SATA breakout cable....but its USB! This cable is very long now....but that is what is necessary for the cable run I want. It's a big case!





Here is what is looks like in the case. The separate ends are connected to each Aquaero, and then quickly join into one cable before dropping down the PSU side of the case.



The joined cable drops straight down the middle divider of the case. This will be completely hidden by the SDD cages when they are put back in.



The cable doesn't make an appearance on the motherboard side again until coming out the cutout below the motherboard. At this point it truly is a single cable...and has a single motherboard 9-pin connector. Easy to plug in, and much cleaner than having separate connections.




Hope that helps, for any of you other dual Aquaero owners out there. I'm probably going to do something similar for the power/reset/HDD/LED connectors. Right now there are six separate little connectors that plug in beside each other and are a great big PITA to get plugged in properly. I'll probably join all of these to a single 9-pin connector and make then a single cable coming from the front of the case. Will probably navigate the cord the same way these USB connections are run. These don't need the USB shielding inside the cable, so I can probably roll my own.

More later!


----------



## 3930K

AW









Still awesome


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> AW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still awesome


QFT


----------



## TPE-331

Hey Chris, the USB cables look great.







Do you have any plans to make videos when you assemble your waterblocks, fill and leak test your system? I think it would be great for folks that may be considering a complex loop.


----------



## cpachris

Played with setting up my USB 3.0 retrofit kit for the TH10 tonight.

This switch kit can be changed into several different layouts. The one I had chose initially had just the power switch and reset button. It looks like this:



The switches remove easily with just a nut.



...and then the whole front plate comes off with just two more nuts.



I swapped out the original plate with this one, which is meant for the USB 3.0 kit:



This is what the USB 3.0 kit itself looks like. It just screws right into the frame.



Here is what it looks like with the front cover off....



....and with the front cover on.



The USB 3.0 connections plug right into the two motherboard headers that are right below the 24 pin.



Naturally, these will have to be sleeved. I'll give you a hint...the Flex Pet sleeve will be used in this process.

More to come!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Ever actually going to use usb 3.0?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Ever actually going to use usb 3.0?


I'll have a big USB 3.0 harddrive I plug in occasionally to create backups that I move offsite. My card reader, which I use daily, is USB 3.0...but I'll put that on a dedicated connection. I would also anticipate that thumbdrives will become increasingly based on 3.0 standard. Why not use the speed that is available?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll have a big USB 3.0 harddrive I plug in occasionally to create backups that I move offsite. My card reader, which I use daily, is USB 3.0...but I'll put that on a dedicated connection. I would also anticipate that thumbdrives will become increasingly based on 3.0 standard. Why not use the speed that is available?


Ah good. Just though you might be like me and have all this usb 3.0 in my pc, and absolutely nothing that uses it. xD


----------



## TheBadBull

Huh.

That 24-pin still hasn't sleeved itself?

Have you tried to encourage it?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Lookin damn fine Chris.


----------



## mandrix

There are motherboard connectors available for the USB 3.0 in case you decide you want an easier sleeving route. Easier to sleeve, but you would still have to remove all wiring and reconnect to the new connectors. At any rate be curious to see what you come up with. These double wire USB 3.0 don't look fun, and I've been mulling them over. I have 4 mobo connectors I ordered from modDIY but haven't decided if I'm going that route or not.

Also, for any of the 2.54 pitch connectors on the motherboard, USB 2.0, 2 pin/5 pin/etc here's what I ordered a while back:
Pins from Mouser:
855-M20-1180046
Harwin Headers & Wire Housings
F/M CRIMP TERM TIN

5 pin housings from Mouser:
855-M20-1060500
M20-1060500
Harwin Headers & Wire Housings
5 PIN SIL HOUSING

2 pin housings from Newark
Stock No: 82H8395
Manufacturer Part No: M20-1060200
Description: WIRE TO BOARD CONNECTOR, RCPT, 2POS, 1ROW; Connector Type:Wire to Board; Contact Termination:Crimp; Gender:Receptacle; No. of Contacts:2; No. of Rows:1; Pitch Spacing:2.54mm

10 pin housings from Newark
Description: WIRE-BOARD CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE 10POS, 2.54MM
Part Number: 38C9188
Mfr: Molex

All of this is the standard 2.54 pitch connectors and the pins that fit them, in case you find you need/want to replace any housings and/or need to recrimp any pins.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> Huh. That 24-pin still hasn't sleeved itself? Have you tried to encourage it?


I wake up every morning...and its still sitting there. I haven't tried to encourage it yet though. Maybe tonight I'll leave some smooth love songs playing on the stereo....see if that helps. Maybe the Lionel Richie album with all the country stars singing duets. Yeah. That would make me sleeve myself. Will report back tomorrow.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Lookin damn fine Chris.


Thank you sir.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> There are motherboard connectors available for the USB 3.0 in case you decide you want an easier sleeving route. Easier to sleeve, but you would still have to remove all wiring and reconnect to the new connectors. At any rate be curious to see what you come up with. These double wire USB 3.0 don't look fun, and I've been mulling them over. I have 4 mobo connectors I ordered from modDIY but haven't decided if I'm going that route or not.


I've destroyed quite a few USB 3.0 cables trying to figure out a good way to do them. I won't say I've found a "good way" to sleeve the double wire USB 3.0 connections. But I've found a way. I'll have more pictures on what I'm doing later today.


----------



## cpachris

Yes Virginia....there really is.



Thank you thessdreview.com and Kingston for my free SSD. I'll probably throw this one in the upcoming gf build.


----------



## Defunctronin

Everytime I come back here I get the itch to spend money I shouldn't.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> Everytime I come back here I get the itch to spend money I shouldn't.


good to know its not only me.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> Everytime I come back here I get the itch to spend money I shouldn't.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> good to know its not only me.


Scratch that itch! ...or at least put some cream on it...or something.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Scratch that itch! ...or at least put some cream on it...or something.


Student = poor. Sometimes I wish I hadn't gone back to college, ITS SO EXPENSIVE; cream it is...


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Scratch that itch! ...or at least put some cream on it...or something.


asap i sell my athlon, im upgrading to a 2500K for only a $100 difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> Student = poor. Sometimes I wish I hadn't gone back to college, ITS SO EXPENSIVE; cream it is...


student= poor. yes. yes. million times a yes.


----------



## cpachris

Took a break from cabling/sleeving today, and got out the power tools. First I worked on putting together the 2nd of my PA2 brackets. You've already seen pictures of the one on the PSU side of the case, but I finished the one on the motherboard side tonight. As with the previous one...this one will get powdercoated white when I'm all done. But here it is in raw form...



The bracket on this side extends 2.5 inches from the middle of the case, so that the PA2's are directly underneath the fans. The bracket on the PSU side only extended 1.5 inches...since that side of the case is more narrow.

While I had the power tools out...I drilled some more holes in the case to mount the Helix reservoir. I mounted it on the center dividing panel inside the case. For the OU reservoir, I used the radiator mounting brackets available on the FrozenQ website. The only issue I had there was the screws. The AMS radiators take M3 screws. I had some extra M3's that were too short...and some extra M3's that were too long. Hmmm. So....used my dremal on 4 of my 30mm screws....and they quickly became 13mm screws....which was just about perfect. Don't want to puncture those radiator coils!



I was worried initially that the 250mm reservoir size might be too small in a case this big. Was wondering whether or not I should switch to the 400mm sizes. But having two of them beside each other, and not centered vertically....actually fills the space nicely. And when the door is on....the window frames them very nicely. Think I'll stick with the 250mm size.

The more I do...the more I realize I still have to do. But I'm still having fun. That's it for tonight....but I'm going to go put on some Lionel and see if I can get my 24pin in the mood.









Edit: Spelling


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Took a break from cabling/sleeving today, and got out the power tools. First I worked on putting together the 2nd of my PA2 brackets. You've already seen pictures of the one on the PSU side of the case, but I finished the one on the motherboard side tonight. As with the previous one...this one will get powdercoated white when I'm all done. But here it is in raw form...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bracket on this side extends 2.5 inches from the middle of the case, so that the PA2's are directly underneath the fans. The bracket on the PSU side only extended 1.5 inches...since that side of the case is more narrow.
> While I had the power tools out...I drilled some more holes in the case to mount the Helix reservoir. I mounted it on the center dividing panel inside the case. For the OU reservoir, I used the radiator mounting brackets available on the FrozenQ website. The only issue I had there was the screws. The AMS radiators take M3 screws. I had some extra M3's that were too short...and some extra M3's that were too long. Hmmm. So....used my dremal on 4 of my 30mm screws....and they quickly became 13mm screws....which was just about perfect. Don't want to puncture those radiator coils!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was worried initially that the 250mm reservoir size might be too small in a case this big. Was wondering whether or not I should switch to the 400mm sizes. But having two of them beside each other, and not centered vertically....actually fills the space nicely. And when the door is on....the window frames them very nicely. Think I'll stick with the 250mm size.
> The more I do...the more I realize I still have to do. But I'm still having fun. *That's it for tonight....but I'm gonig to go put on some Lionel and see if I can get my 24pin in the mood.*


Laughing, laughing! I continue to put off sleeving my dual wire y-splicing in all of my harnesses, it's probably the last thing I will do.


----------



## mandrix

This might sound strange, but the 24 & 8 pin are the easiest things I've done. I've been making everything up from scratch, and the SATA power , or anything with punch down connectors, have been the biggest pita.
I still need to make my two 8 pin to dual 8 (or 6 pin in my case) psu to gpu cables but that shouldn't be hard. Had to order some more blue wire, though, as somehow I've managed to go through 100 ft. Need to redo my SATA power as well.

Like you I'm still having fun! I don't get in a rush about these things, and though mine is basically functional, what will I do when it's finished? lol this is my second full water cooled build this year and the bank is dry.







Must.....resist......buying......more......Bitspower.......fittings.........!


----------



## Quest99

Marvin Gaye "let's get it on" should do it.

Awesome updates Chris....as always!


----------



## Defunctronin

Be careful with the Lionel, so much of it is sad; you may wake up to a somber 24 pin that has been eating ice cream, watching general hospital, and crying all night...instead of sleeving itself.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Laughing, laughing! I continue to put off sleeving my dual wire y-splicing in all of my harnesses, it's probably the last thing I will do.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Marvin Gaye "let's get it on" should do it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> Be careful with the Lionel, so much of it is sad; you may wake up to a somber 24 pin that has been eating ice cream, watching general hospital, and crying all night...instead of sleeving itself.


Hmmmmm. You guys may be onto something. When I woke up this morning, this is what I found:



The 24pin was wrapped around the reservoirs, and was touching all of the SATA breakouts. I felt a little dirty untangling it all. Perhaps tonight I'll try the Marvin Gaye suggestion. Not sure why I didn't go there in the first place.


----------



## mosi

Umm... this is getting kinda disturbing now... or is it just me?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Umm... this is getting kinda disturbing now... or is it just me?


Just you


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Umm... this is getting kinda disturbing now... or is it just me?


Awww yeah, the good kind of disturbing.


----------



## cpachris

Tonight I took another crack at sleeving a USB 3.0 double cable. When I originally sleeved my USB 3.0 card reader, I ended up having to use some very large sleeve to get over the enormous motherboard 20pin connector on one end. Picture of what it ended up looking like below. This was my old approach:



While it definitely looked better than leaving the cables black (at least for my build), I really didn't like how much slack is inside the sleeve. You can see how poofy it is all around. You simply can't pull it very tight at all when the sleeve is this much larger than the wires inside it. I was set on trying to improve this. For anyone who has tried sleeving USB 3.0 double cables...I know you feel my pain. The biggest issue is that most of these cables have a gigantic motherboard header on one end....like this:



...and an end that is not accessible on the other end.....like this:



So....for my first attempts, I decided I would see what size sleeve I could actually fit over the 20 pin motherboard connector...without trying to remove it. I was hoping to find something smaller that would still fit over the connector. Since I had plenty of MDPC-X on hand, I tried that first. There is no way you are going to be able to slide either the SATA sleeve or the USB sleeve (available only in black I believe) over that connector. I tried every which was possible. So next...I decided to try several brands of sleeve and see if any of them had more expandability than the MDPC-X I've been working with.

I bought sleeve from Bitspower, Mod/Smart, Techflex, Flexo Pet, and FTW. And I bought it in all the different sizes they make that were larger. I can tell you that none of the sleeving from any company that was sized 3/8 Inch or smaller would go over the connector. Not even close. When I stepped up to 1/2 inch sleeve...there was one brand of sleeving that would expand enough to make it over the 20 pin connector. You've probably guessed based on prior posts....but it was the Flexo Pet. Flexo Pet just expands WAY more than the other company's sleeve. But the big negative is that it does not provide good coverage of the cable underneath...so using the correct color wire...or wrapping in electrical tape first...is required when using this sleeving. The next step up in size for most manufacturers was 3/4 inch sleeve...and this size would generally fit over the 20 pin connector.....but it sure left a lot of empty space inside the sleeve. It was too big to pull tight.

The 1/2 inch Flexo Pet looked better than my original attempt. But even the 1/2 inch Flexo Pet that would just barely fit over the connector...left too much space inside the sleeve for my taste.

So....my next attempt was to remove the connector and/or remove the pins. Lots of epic fails during this part, and I destroyed several USB cables. I was at least smart enough to attempt this on cheap extra cables I had bought, and not anything that was important and attached to a card reader. Kind of like most of the SATA cables I tore down...there is a lot of waxy substance that seals the wires coming out of the cables and into the connectors. It is impossible to try and remove the wires from this waxy mold.

After I had destroyed enough cables trying to free the wires from the connectors, I decided to try and different approach, and just slice off as much of the black plastic connector as I could...to make it thinner. To try this....I heated up an exacto knife on my gas stove top until the blade was nice and hot. Real hot. Blade glowing orange hot. If you try this...hold the handle with something padded, because the whole knife gets real hot.



With the knife this hot....it melted through the black plastic like butter. And I found that if I stayed close to the edges of where the black plastic molding touched the waxy molding inside....I could end up tearing the black plastic molding off completely. Here is a picture of the molding torn off of the cable.



Here is what the waxy end looks like underneath the black plastic molding. You can see that the waxy mold is still completely intact, so it is still there to provide strength and support for the tiny solder connections. Nothing lost by removing the black plastic molding.





And by removing the outer black plastic molding, the size of the connector does get smaller...and not by an insubstantial amount. Here are some pictures comparing an untouched USB 3.0 connector with my modded one:




And by removing the extra size that the black plastic molding added....I found that I could now slip a 3/8 inch Flexo Pet sleeve over the connector. Smaller sleeve...should mean better fit around the cables. The 3/8 inch sleeve actually fit real snug around the cables. Left none of the poofy slack that I was trying to eliminate. Nice. So I went ahead and taped the black cables with white electrical tape:



Snugged the sleeve over the 20 pin connector and down the cable....



Put some one inch heatshrink on this end....



...and then this end....



....for a finished cable.



Here is a picture of my old approach (on the left)....and my new approach (on the right).



Much more attractive. But the only way to get this result when you are having to go over a 20 pin connector...is to slim down the connector with your heated up knife....and use some Flexo Pet sleeving which expands WAY more than other sleeve does.

Guess I'm going to have to redo that card reader sleeve also. This looks much better.

Now...I'm off to bed...but I'm going to turn on some Marvin Gaye softly in the background to see if it stimulates any 24 pin action. Update tomorrow.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Nice job on that 3.0 cable. Looks gooooooood!


----------



## Defunctronin

New look is definitely an improvement, good eye for detail.


----------



## Water Cooled

I'd sell a body part for this thing...


----------



## michigantoga

This build has my mouth & eyes wide open in awe. Simply amazing build & great work! Subbed


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> Nice job on that 3.0 cable. Looks gooooooood!


Thanks Stevo!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> New look is definitely an improvement, good eye for detail.


Appreciate it Defunctronin!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Water Cooled*
> 
> I'd sell a body part for this thing...


That's ok. Keep it. But thanks anyway!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michigantoga*
> 
> This build has my mouth & eyes wide open in awe. Simply amazing build & great work! Subbed


Another first time poster. Love it! Welcome to OCN michigantoga!


----------



## cpachris

Ding dong. Oh. Wonder who that it is? Better go check. Well...its my friendly FedEx dude, who now greets me by first name since we've seen each other so many times this last summer.

Me: What do you have for me today?
FedEx dude: This one is from Germany.
Me: Ah. I think I know what it is then. Mips.
FedEx dude: Mips? What is that? What are you getting from Germany?
Me: Its more computer stuff. They make good stuff.
FedEx dude: If you say so.
Me: Do you need a signature?
FedEx dude: Yep.
Me: Ok. See you soon.
FedEx dude: Yeah, my guess is you probably will.

Box....in fair shape. Clearly a re-used box...but no damage...



Inside...each block was packaged separately with bubble wrap and envelopes. Well done.



Group shots....




Here are some closer individual shots of each block...but I do promise to take these up to the faux studio and take some better pics. I still owe you guys pics of the 690 blocks also...so I'll do some better shots of the entire group of water blocks. But for now...here are some quick ones of:

Copper plated IceForce (this one was a custom request)



Asrock Extreme11 Chipset block



4 Dimm Ram Block



VRM Block



Super pleased with how these blocks look. Will post the better pics sometime tomorrow most likely. I won't get around to installing my loop until next weekend I'm afraid. I should be getting my 2nd Corsair 32GB memory kit replacement sometime next week, and then I want to run a series of benchmarks and temperatures with everything at stock settings and air cooling, before getting the loop in place. Then I'll repeat the benchrmarks and temperatures.

More later...


----------



## 3930K

Look EXTREMELY nice.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight I took another crack at sleeving a USB 3.0 double cable. When I originally sleeved my USB 3.0 card reader, I ended up having to use some very large sleeve to get over the enormous motherboard 20pin connector on one end. Picture of what it ended up looking like below. This was my old approach:
> 
> While it definitely looked better than leaving the cables black (at least for my build), I really didn't like how much slack is inside the sleeve. You can see how poofy it is all around. You simply can't pull it very tight at all when the sleeve is this much larger than the wires inside it. I was set on trying to improve this. For anyone who has tried sleeving USB 3.0 double cables...I know you feel my pain. The biggest issue is that most of these cables have a gigantic motherboard header on one end....like this:
> 
> ...and an end that is not accessible on the other end.....like this:
> 
> So....for my first attempts, I decided I would see what size sleeve I could actually fit over the 20 pin motherboard connector...without trying to remove it. I was hoping to find something smaller that would still fit over the connector. Since I had plenty of MDPC-X on hand, I tried that first. There is no way you are going to be able to slide either the SATA sleeve or the USB sleeve (available only in black I believe) over that connector. I tried every which was possible. So next...I decided to try several brands of sleeve and see if any of them had more expandability than the MDPC-X I've been working with.
> I bought sleeve from Bitspower, Mod/Smart, Techflex, Flexo Pet, and FTW. And I bought it in all the different sizes they make that were larger. I can tell you that none of the sleeving from any company that was sized 3/8 Inch or smaller would go over the connector. Not even close. When I stepped up to 1/2 inch sleeve...there was one brand of sleeving that would expand enough to make it over the 20 pin connector. You've probably guessed based on prior posts....but it was the Flexo Pet. Flexo Pet just expands WAY more than the other company's sleeve. But the big negative is that it does not provide good coverage of the cable underneath...so using the correct color wire...or wrapping in electrical tape first...is required when using this sleeving. The next step up in size for most manufacturers was 3/4 inch sleeve...and this size would generally fit over the 20 pin connector.....but it sure left a lot of empty space inside the sleeve. It was too big to pull tight.
> The 1/2 inch Flexo Pet looked better than my original attempt. But even the 1/2 inch Flexo Pet that would just barely fit over the connector...left too much space inside the sleeve for my taste.
> So....my next attempt was to remove the connector and/or remove the pins. Lots of epic fails during this part, and I destroyed several USB cables. I was at least smart enough to attempt this on cheap extra cables I had bought, and not anything that was important and attached to a card reader. Kind of like most of the SATA cables I tore down...there is a lot of waxy substance that seals the wires coming out of the cables and into the connectors. It is impossible to try and remove the wires from this waxy mold.
> After I had destroyed enough cables trying to free the wires from the connectors, I decided to try and different approach, and just slice off as much of the black plastic connector as I could...to make it thinner. To try this....I heated up an exacto knife on my gas stove top until the blade was nice and hot. Real hot. Blade glowing orange hot. If you try this...hold the handle with something padded, because the whole knife gets real hot.
> 
> With the knife this hot....it melted through the black plastic like butter. And I found that if I stayed close to the edges of where the black plastic molding touched the waxy molding inside....I could end up tearing the black plastic molding off completely. Here is a picture of the molding torn off of the cable.
> 
> Here is what the waxy end looks like underneath the black plastic molding. You can see that the waxy mold is still completely intact, so it is still there to provide strength and support for the tiny solder connections. Nothing lost by removing the black plastic molding.
> 
> 
> And by removing the outer black plastic molding, the size of the connector does get smaller...and not by an insubstantial amount. Here are some pictures comparing an untouched USB 3.0 connector with my modded one:
> 
> 
> And by removing the extra size that the black plastic molding added....I found that I could now slip a 3/8 inch Flexo Pet sleeve over the connector. Smaller sleeve...should mean better fit around the cables. The 3/8 inch sleeve actually fit real snug around the cables. Left none of the poofy slack that I was trying to eliminate. Nice. So I went ahead and taped the black cables with white electrical tape:
> 
> Snugged the sleeve over the 20 pin connector and down the cable....
> 
> Put some one inch heatshrink on this end....
> 
> ...and then this end....
> 
> ....for a finished cable.
> 
> Here is a picture of my old approach (on the left)....and my new approach (on the right).
> 
> 
> 
> Much more attractive. But the only way to get this result when you are having to go over a 20 pin connector...is to slim down the connector with your heated up knife....and use some Flexo Pet sleeving which expands WAY more than other sleeve does.
> Guess I'm going to have to redo that card reader sleeve also. This looks much better.
> Now...I'm off to bed...but I'm going to turn on some Marvin Gaye softly in the background to see if it stimulates any 24 pin action. Update tomorrow.


2nd attempt looks much better!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ding dong. Oh. Wonder who that it is? Better go check. Well...its my friendly FedEx dude, who now greets me by first name since we've seen each other so many times this last summer.
> Me: What do you have for me today?
> FedEx dude: This one is from Germany.
> Me: Ah. I think I know what it is then. Mips.
> FedEx dude: Mips? What is that? What are you getting from Germany?
> Me: Its more computer stuff. They make good stuff.
> FedEx dude: If you say so.
> Me: Do you need a signature?
> FedEx dude: Yep.
> Me: Ok. See you soon.
> FedEx dude: Yeah, my guess is you probably will.
> Box....in fair shape. Clearly a re-used box...but no damage...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Blocks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside...each block was packaged separately with bubble wrap and envelopes. Well done.
> 
> Group shots....
> 
> 
> Here are some closer individual shots of each block...but I do promise to take these up to the faux studio and take some better pics. I still owe you guys pics of the 690 blocks also...so I'll do some better shots of the entire group of water blocks. But for now...here are some quick ones of:
> Copper plated IceForce (this one was a custom request)
> 
> Asrock Extreme11 Chipset block
> 
> 4 Dimm Ram Block
> 
> VRM Block
> 
> 
> 
> Super pleased with how these blocks look. Will post the better pics sometime tomorrow most likely. I won't get around to installing my loop until next weekend I'm afraid. I should be getting my 2nd Corsair 32GB memory kit replacement sometime next week, and then I want to run a series of benchmarks and temperatures with everything at stock settings and air cooling, before getting the loop in place. Then I'll repeat the benchrmarks and temperatures.
> More later...


Blocks!


----------



## TheHarvman313

Wow Chris things are really starting to move along!! The detail work is amazing! Very nice job on the usb 3.0 cables. Your innovations are going to end up in soooo many builds on this site!!!!


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Weren't you using Nateman Doo for some of these blocks?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Wow Chris things are really starting to move along!! The detail work is amazing! Very nice job on the usb 3.0 cables. Your innovations are going to end up in soooo many builds on this site!!!!


Thanks Harvman! Still having fun.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Weren't you using Nateman Doo for some of these blocks?


Yes...I've got one of Nate's blocks ordered. And I'm still excited about it....but don't really have any sort of timetable for those. Didn't want to keep waiting. So...I got this Mips block, which matches all the other blocks perfectly...and I'll test this one vs. Nate's when his are done. Winner stays in the BBBB. Second place goes into next build. This also lets me move forward while waiting on Nate. I've tried to get him to throw out even a tentative date range...and he just doesn't feel comfortable doing that.


----------



## cpachris

Busy with kids this afternoon/evening...but here is what I got done while they were at school today. I tackled the front panel audio connector. It's the black one in the middle of the two USB 3.0 I sleeved yesterday.



I was in kind of the same boat as I was when I was trying to figure out what to do with the two USB connectors for the Aquaero's. The standard front panel audio cable that comes with the Caselabs case....is barely long enough to reach the HD Audio pins on the AE11 motherboard. And its not even close to being long enough to reach the right spot if I run it in a manner that hides it from sight for most of the run. So...I needed to make it longer. But kind of like with the USB cables....there is extra shielding that is standard with these cables...so I didn't want to just make my own. So what I did was buy an extender....but then I did something similar to what I did for the USB cables. I didn't want the big black ugly connectors in the middle of my cable....so I removed both connectors and just clipped the pins together without using the connectors. I added some real small heatshrink on each individual wire to hold the pins in place and provide some shielding.



I taped it for strength. Started out taping this one red....because I was going to use some of my crimson sleeve on it. But I changed my mind and ended up taping it all white, so it would closely match the other USB double cables.



Since I had just done something similar....this one went pretty quick. I used SATA sleeve from MDPC-X for the sleeving, and some of the regular SATA size heatshrink also. If you zoom in on the picture below....you will see the difference in the MDPC-X sleeve (middle) and the Flexo Pet (both sides). MDPC-X has much tighter weave and provides more coverage. The quality of the braid also appears to be much better. MDPC-X is just better sleeving. But as discussed a few posts ago....I couldn't use it for the USB 3.0 cables due to the size of the 20pin connector.



And here is a picture of the whole cable. The HD audio cable is LONG......but it needs to be to reach the back of the AE11 motherboard, going along the route I want it to go.



Will be tackling the front panel Power/Reset/HDD/LED wires tomorrow. I think I can roll my own for these. The ones that come with the case are much too short for my desired route...so I need longer ones.


----------



## Mainsil

The USB 3.0 and audio cables turned out really well, but your tenacity in searching for a solution is downright amazing.







Love the water blocks, look forward to seeing them in place.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmm leather and sleeve, you know what I like !
Unfortunately, no place to release my "excitement" in the college library, and no decent damsels to be found nearby to help me either...









PS: Amazing patience you (and your wife) have. I'm pretty sure I couldn't spend so long on one build without going bonkers, but the result will be more than worth it I'm sure. Keep up the good work. I have been following this thread for a while now (still having sweet dreams about those fan colour combinations )

EDIT: Damn it Chrome, colour is with "ou" ... stop correcting me.
EDIT2: OMG, I just realized the ATM machine in the library makes the same sound as those suit-recharging stations in Half - Life


----------



## mandrix

Very nice go at the USB 3.0!
I'm still contemplating changing out the mobo connectors for the ones I bought. In the middle of the process I should be able to sleeve the cables before attaching the new connectors. Actually I picked the idea of the connectors up from adi518, although I don't think he has actually tried them yet it seems on the surface like a good idea.

Do you think the double USB 3.0 connectors could be taken apart and keep the pins intact? If not I have pins to crimp, but would rather not if I didn't have to. Would mean making a chart with all the pin outs and extra work but could be worth it.


----------



## Quest99

Itching for those blocks pictures....time for some studio time!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Amazing patience you (and your wife) have. I'm pretty sure I couldn't spend so long on one build without going bonkers, but the result will be more than worth it I'm sure. Keep up the good work. I have been following this thread for a while now (still having sweet dreams about those fan colour combinations )
> EDIT: Damn it Chrome, colour is with "ou" ... stop correcting me.
> EDIT2: OMG, I just realized the ATM machine in the library makes the same sound as those suit-recharging stations in Half - Life


Edit3: You are giving me ideas. What if I did the whole build log in one post...and just kept editing it every time I had an update?







Also, my girlfriend will be horrified to learn that I have a wife. Actually....me too.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Very nice go at the USB 3.0!
> I'm still contemplating changing out the mobo connectors for the ones I bought. In the middle of the process I should be able to sleeve the cables before attaching the new connectors. Actually I picked the idea of the connectors up from adi518, although I don't think he has actually tried them yet it seems on the surface like a good idea.
> Do you think the double USB 3.0 connectors could be taken apart and keep the pins intact? If not I have pins to crimp, but would rather not if I didn't have to. Would mean making a chart with all the pin outs and extra work but could be worth it.


I won't say "never"....because every connector might be a little different. But I did play with several brands...and none of the ones I bought would be possible to take the motherboard connector off and keep the pins/wires intact. The waxy plastic molding is strong. I thought about making my own...but the inside of a USB cable is not simple:



So I don't think you can just cut your own wires to length and pin them. At a minimum, you'll need to start with a real USB 3.0 cable, and maybe just clip the connector off? If you successfully do it...make sure and post some pictures. I would think that getting getting everything shielded properly again would be difficult. But you might be the first to do and teach us all a new trick!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Itching for those blocks pictures....time for some studio time!


Definitely this weekend....but it will be just the blocks. Not on the board yet. Still need to record my stock temperatures on air before moving forward.


----------



## stren

Nice - I always like it when chipset ram and cpu all match. Nice that MIPS were able to copper plate the block hold down for you too. I'm intrigued to see the EX11 board all dressed up. I'm tempted to upgarade but then I'd have to upgrade my GPUs to justify it. And then I'd have to upgrade my monitors too







Not sure I can get another 5K past the wife right now


----------



## mosi

Those blocks are a beauty! The similar color theme is kicking major... well you know what







The custom iceforce is especially nice.
Also that USB 3.0 cable looks pretty complicated inside, almost as bad as CAT-7.

I found some USB 3.0 plug for soldering in some random shop over here. It's not even expensive but you'd still need the cable. Nevertheless, there are plugs out there so maybe some store over at your place might also carry them

speaking of packages.. did DHL ever find your lost one?


----------



## barkinos98

my wallet blames you for making me buy a SM8 by the time i get my rig. my brain blames itself because of not thinking of a caselabs before. also, i will need lots of sleeving


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Nice - I always like it when chipset ram and cpu all match. Nice that MIPS were able to copper plate the block hold down for you too. I'm intrigued to see the EX11 board all dressed up. I'm tempted to upgarade but then I'd have to upgrade my GPUs to justify it. And then I'd have to upgrade my monitors too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I can get another 5K past the wife right now


Thanks. I hope to start my loop NEXT weekend, so I'll have lots of pics of the AE11 all dressed up. Mips actually copper coated the base of the Iceforce block also. Looks real good in person.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Those blocks are a beauty! The similar color theme is kicking major... well you know what
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The custom iceforce is especially nice.
> Also that USB 3.0 cable looks pretty complicated inside, almost as bad as CAT-7.
> I found some USB 3.0 plug for soldering in some random shop over here. It's not even expensive but you'd still need the cable. Nevertheless, there are plugs out there so maybe some store over at your place might also carry them
> speaking of packages.. did DHL ever find your lost one?


That type plug is a challenge also....but its the big 20pin motherboard connectors that are next to impossible to sleeve. And no...I've actually never heard from DHL or AquaComputer again regarding status of my package. I guess since the credit card company reversed my charges...they just assumed that I didn't need any additional communication. Handled very poorly. I love their stuff...but will never ever buy directly from them again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> my wallet blames you for making me buy a SM8 by the time i get my rig. my brain blames itself because of not thinking of a caselabs before. also, i will need lots of sleeving


I accept blame, but require pictures of your endeavor.


----------



## cpachris

Finished up the front panel power/reset buttons tonight. The front panel switches are pretty well designed. Bulgin style switches....and the whole front panel comes off with 4 screws...



and then the switches are released with two large nuts.....



once you have the switches off you can simply unplug the wires because of the disconnects....



like this......



....on the other end of wire...the connectors are easily removed. Pictures from prior post...so not repeated here. But the thing to notice is that there are 3 individual connectors here. And since the second switch is idental in the wire layout, you end up with 6 separate connectors to plug into the motherboard. Lots of builds don't have a ton of room in the case for "hands"....so plugging in this many little connectors is a great big pain in the arse. I'm going to try to fix that with this mod....



I removed the plastic connectors from the end of each of the wires...



Next I just clipped this end of the wires off, ....with the connectors....because I need to extend the wire and make it longer. I soldered on an extension of the wire to make it longer...



....and then sealed up the solder join with some really small heatshrink.



Then I lifted up the clear plastic connector and used some small heatshrink on the disconnect end of the wire. I took it all the way up to the butt of the connector.



Once shrunk...I pushed the clear plastic connector back down. Now you can't see the wire color like before!



Then you can just plug the disconnects back into the switch.



Taped up the entire wire assembly with red electrical tape.



Next comes the sleeve.... I used my custom dyed crimson MDPC-X small sleeve...Then the heatshrink...



For the other end of the cable...I waited until I had done both cables. I crimped new pins on the end of the wires...and then plugged all pins into a single 10 pin connector. For those AE11 owners who have had to plug/unplug these cables a lot....you'll appreciate how nice this mod will be. it's a pain to have to plug in all 6 of these connectors every time you have to pull the motherboard out. Having only one plug...and a bigger target..is really nice.



Some more leather and sleeve for my friend Bloitz. Here is the whole cable...



...close up of the motherboard end....



...closeup of the switch end....



...in the case.



Slowly...but surely....all of the non-sleeved cable is disappearing. Now if I can just get the 24pin to sleeve itself.


----------



## mandrix

Very nice on the FP connectors. I have one heck of a time plugging in those tiny things in my , uh, "advanced" age. THAT is something I'm definitely going to copy from you!
Do you have a part number for the 10 pin connector?

EDIT: are you using two of these for the mobo side? HARWIN - M20-1061000 - CRIMP HOUSING, 10WAY


----------



## kewlbreze77

First Off, BOOMER SOONER! With athat said, I love your build! I wanted to do a similar idea with my 600t. But now seeing your build I will go ahead with plan B.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Very nice on the FP connectors. I have one heck of a time plugging in those tiny things in my , uh, "advanced" age. THAT is something I'm definitely going to copy from you!
> Do you have a part number for the 10 pin connector?
> EDIT: are you using two of these for the mobo side? HARWIN - M20-1061000 - CRIMP HOUSING, 10WAY


I'm with ya Mandrix. Gets harder every year. Combining six connections into one saves a TON of hassle when taking the motherboard tray in/out. I got these at PPCS, but probably available everywhere.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ge=product_info&cPath=60_190&products_id=1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kewlbreze77*
> 
> First Off, BOOMER SOONER! With athat said, I love your build! I wanted to do a similar idea with my 600t. But now seeing your build I will go ahead with plan B.


Another Sooner....AND a first time poster! Double win!

Big game today. ESPN is doing College Gameday from here. Would be a huge win for the Sooners if we can pull this one off.


----------



## Defunctronin

You're getting pro at sleeving there bud, looks awesome.


----------



## mandrix

Ah, I see. You are using a double row 12 10 pin. That won't work for me, my header is wider and right now I'm not sure it follows the 2.54 spacing of those connectors until I check it closer. Anyway a fabulous idea and I just finished fighting all those connectors again after swapping boards. Decided to put my other UD5H in Merlin and the UP4 TH in the Switch. Feature wise the UD5H beats the UP4 hands down with better OC and more onboard headers.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Very nice on the FP connectors. I have one heck of a time plugging in those tiny things in my , uh, "advanced" age. THAT is something I'm definitely going to copy from you!
> Do you have a part number for the 10 pin connector?
> EDIT: are you using two of these for the mobo side? HARWIN - M20-1061000 - CRIMP HOUSING, 10WAY
> 
> 
> 
> I'm with ya Mandrix. Gets harder every year. Combining six connections into one saves a TON of hassle when taking the motherboard tray in/out. I got these at PPCS, but probably available everywhere.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ge=product_info&cPath=60_190&products_id=1740
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kewlbreze77*
> 
> First Off, BOOMER SOONER! With athat said, I love your build! I wanted to do a similar idea with my 600t. But now seeing your build I will go ahead with plan B.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Another Sooner....AND a first time poster! Double win!
> 
> Big game today. ESPN is doing College Gameday from here. Would be a huge win for the Sooners if we can pull this one off.
Click to expand...

Got them with my actual mobo


----------



## cpachris

Turn on your TV sets gents. It's time to watch my OU Sooners take the fight to the Fightin' Irish!


----------



## mandrix

I'll peek in from time to time. FSU blow out against Duke. As many times as we fumbled I'm surprised Duke didn't score more.


----------



## ballnuts

This build just continues to blow my mind, every day that I look at it. So much good info in here.









Those rads look amazing. Wish these companies would consider doing something like this. OR OR OR, maybe they would consider just cleaning and sanitizing before sending them to us....


----------



## Defunctronin

My old man was just watching the irish fight the sooners.
Been a Notre Dame fan all my life, and used to live right down the road there in South Bend; but I still live pretty close.
Irish up 10-6.


----------



## mandrix

Looks like Notre Dame defense continued to be outstanding. Sorry for your loss.


----------



## cpachris

There will, of course, be a mandatory 2 day mourning period to reflect on the loss of a chance at another national title.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> There will, of course, be a mandatory 2 day mourning period to reflect on the loss of a chance at another national title.


----------



## mandrix

Since you lost you must pay penance. The 24 pin must be sleeved! Now!








I made and sleeved one of my gpu cables today while watching football.


----------



## conntick

Notre Dame fan here to say, "ha."


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Damn you... Now you made him mad, and we now have to wait longer...









AWESOME BUILD.... been fallowing for a while... you even made me join OCN


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> Damn you... Now you made him mad, and we now have to wait longer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AWESOME BUILD.... been fallowing for a while... you even made me join OCN


Well, welcome to OCN.


----------



## Audiophile20

Cpachris-

Got my AQ5 stuff mailed in and all arrived safely.

I was trying to mount the AQ5 Pro into the case and am having problems with the fit! I have a Bluray drive and Icydock 2in3 mounted without issues, but the Pro looks like it is too wide.

Does that make sense? Would love your input.

Shoggy, on AQ forum did not see a problem with device or the brackets. I am stumped.

Hoping you might have a solution


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> You're getting pro at sleeving there bud, looks awesome.


Thank you kindly Defunctronin!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ballnuts*
> 
> This build just continues to blow my mind, every day that I look at it. So much good info in here.


Thank you kindly ballnuts!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*
> 
> My old man was just watching the irish fight the sooners. Been a Notre Dame fan all my life, and used to live right down the road there in South Bend; but I still live pretty close. Irish up 10-6.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Looks like Notre Dame defense continued to be outstanding. Sorry for your loss.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defunctronin*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Since you lost you must pay penance. The 24 pin must be sleeved! Now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made and sleeved one of my gpu cables today while watching football.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> Notre Dame fan here to say, "ha."


Ok. Ok. I can take my licks, and I've finished my required two days of mourning a little early. .







It was a good game...but Notre Dame just outplayed us. That little quarterback just made things happen every time he really needed to. Such a shame. I think the value of my case was going to double overnight if we won another national championship this year.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> AWESOME BUILD.... been fallowing for a while... you even made me join OCN


Another first timer! Welcome to OCN mindbender!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile20*
> 
> Cpachris-
> Got my AQ5 stuff mailed in and all arrived safely.
> I was trying to mount the AQ5 Pro into the case and am having problems with the fit! I have a Bluray drive and Icydock 2in3 mounted without issues, but the Pro looks like it is too wide.
> Does that make sense? Would love your input.
> Shoggy, on AQ forum did not see a problem with device or the brackets. I am stumped.
> Hoping you might have a solution


Mine was definitely the widest thing I put in a flex bay. All my other components slide in just like they were supposed to. The AQ5...both of the....took some extra effort. I ended up putting the far side into the peg first, and then used some effort to get the near side in. I think Aquacomputer needs to look at the size of these. I've read from someone else who also had issues. They are a smidge wider than standard. Be careful not to put too much stress on the PCB or screen when working it into the slot. Good luck.


----------



## cpachris

I made a power harness for my PA2's in their custom mounting bracket awhile back for the PSU side. Did some pictures in this post, so I won't repeat them here. But I've now finished up the same thing for the motherboard side. I've got another 6 PA2's on this side of the case also.

Push-down style molex connectors spaced about 4 inches apart. Only the 12 volt and ground wires are needed for the PA2's, so that's all I need.



Shrinkless for the PSU side of the connector.



The whole enchilada....



...in the case.



More to come!


----------



## GingerJohn

Very clean! Good work.

I love how the fans are spinning on the rad that isn't plumbed up yet...


----------



## 3930K

What happened to the mourning perios?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> What happened to the mourning perios?


He took defeat like a man and moved on.


----------



## Truedeal

Man Chris, I see you are devoted to this rig, spending a great deal of time on it, perfecting every corner. You've been working on this thing since June!









Could hire an entire team with such a budget, to work faster.


----------



## Audiophile20

Thx Chris. Greatly appreciate it. Also ordered the water blocks from MIPS. Gould be here this week hopefully. It is in NY now, but with the storm we will wait and see.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Very clean! Good work.
> I love how the fans are spinning on the rad that isn't plumbed up yet...


gotta get em' ready....right? pretty soon, i won't have anything left but that 24-pin.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> He took defeat like a man and moved on.


I've already started the "Wait till next year" chant.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Man Chris, I see you are devoted to this rig, spending a great deal of time on it, perfecting every corner. You've been working on this thing since June!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could hire an entire team with such a budget, to work faster.


Thanks Truedeal! But hiring a team would be no fun?!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile20*
> 
> Thx Chris. Greatly appreciate it. Also ordered the water blocks from MIPS. Gould be here this week hopefully. It is in NY now, but with the storm we will wait and see.


Lets hope things don't slow down too much for you mail wise. That was quite a storm that hit them. I'm hoping everything returns to normal quickly in NYC! I"m taking the girlfriend there this weekend to play! Must have electricity.


----------



## cpachris

It's an absolutely gorgeous day today here in Edmond, OK. Taking advantage of it and doing some fan prep and painting today.

These are my little baby fans that will go in the rear of the case. They are 40mm Noise Blocker Black Silent Pros. They don't move much air....mainly for looks. But they also don't make much noise. Very quiet. I think they look much more attractive than leaving meshed holes, or something like that. But since they are black and blue...we need to do a little prep and paint.





Here is how to take these little baby fans apart. First take off the sticker on the frame. I'll be replacing these with some custom vinyl stickers...but if you won't be....take them off carefully and set them aside.



Underneath the first sticker is a second sticker that covers the inside of the fan guts. Don't lose this sticker. You will want to put it back on when done.



There is a tiny (and I mean tiny!!) little round clip that secures the fan blade spindle to the frame.



Just use a little pressure with an exacto knife from underneath if, and it will pop right out. Be very careful. I lost one of my round clips when removing it. Frustrating. Now I'll have to buy another fan to finish this. Once you have them out...I think setting them on top of the sticky side of the second sticker you removed is a good strategy. It will hold it there...and you won't lose it.



Disassembled baby fans....





I'm also doing 7 more of the 120mm Noise Blocker Multi-Frame S2's. When I originally did the first 42 of them (man that sounds strange to say outloud), I wasn't planning on using any of these to replace the fans inside my PSU's (which I did), and I also didn't yet know I would order a custom bottom plate for my pedestal, which allows me to place fans in the bottom of it. So....I'm short some fans.



Went through all my normal prep work....





..and then started painting.






...I'm inbetween paint coats right now....but I'll post some pics of the fans put back together later. I need to do my 140mm fans also.


----------



## TheBadBull




----------



## mosi

Yay more fans! Domino anyone?








Also, did you try a plate with milk and cookies for the 24pin? maybe it'll sleeve itself then. IIRC music didn't work, did it?

So this weekend was really bad luck over the pond too?
Saturday my cpu imploded.. kinda... it just shut off suddenly and didn't want to work on 2 different boards. Then I came home and my projector started dieing. Lamp flickering like mad and still not getting better...








Oh well, now the backup rig is up and running and everything RMA'able is in the mail. Kudos to a friend who lent me with his backup E8200 + board.

I'm glad that you could put a lid on the lost package issue and move on!

Also, with all those fans... any chance we might see a flying BBBB?


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Yay more fans! Domino anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, did you try a plate with milk and cookies for the 24pin? maybe it'll sleeve itself then. IIRC music didn't work, did it?
> So this weekend was really bad luck over the pond too?
> Saturday my cpu imploded.. kinda... it just shut off suddenly and didn't want to work on 2 different boards. Then I came home and my projector started dieing. Lamp flickering like mad and still not getting better...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, now the backup rig is up and running and everything RMA'able is in the mail. Kudos to a friend who lent me with his backup E8200 + board.
> I'm glad that you could put a lid on the lost package issue and move on!
> Also, with all those fans... any chance we might see a flying BBBB?


It was supposed to be a secret, but BBBB isn't supposed to be a computer, it's going to be an intellignent drone.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Also, with all those fans... any chance we might see a flying BBBB?


One in a million chance.

Now.....in my Jim Carrey voice from Dumb and Dumber...."So you're telling me there's a chance!" May try the milk and cookies.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> It was supposed to be a secret, but BBBB isn't supposed to be a computer, it's going to be an intellignent drone.


Drones are so 13 seconds ago. This computer will be used to locate, map and plot exact coordinates for Paris Hilton 24/7. Just because.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> One in a million chance.
> Now.....in my Jim Carrey voice from Dumb and Dumber...."So you're telling me there's a chance!" May try the milk and cookies.
> Drones are so 13 seconds ago. This computer will be used to locate, map and plot exact coordinates for *Paris Hilton* 24/7. Just because.


ಠ_ಠ


----------



## cpachris

I'm still inbetween coats of paint that are drying from the last batch. Lots of very light coats. But I thought I would post some pictures of disassembling the 140mm fans. They were similar....but a little different. The 140mm fans just seem huge once you've gotten use to handling 120mm fans...





To disassemble...first pull back the sticker on the frame...



Underneath the first sticker is a little round rubber plug. This differs from the second sticker that was on the 40mm baby fans. In the picture below, I've already flipped up the rubber plug with my exacto knife.



Then position your exacto knife underneath the little round clip.....and gently pull upwards. It will pop right out. Then, the fan blades will slide right off the frame.



Next...do all your prep work of taping....



This picture is of the blades from the earlier today batch of 120mm fans and the 40mm baby fans. The frames are still drying...but these are done. Same as previously...I used multiple light coats of paint....and I used two different colors to best match my case. They came out nice again.



Should have some finished pictures tomorrow of all the fans painted. May not be done with wiring/sleeving yet...but I'll post what I've got tomorrow.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Drones are so 13 seconds ago. This computer will be used to locate, map and plot exact coordinates for Paris Hilton 24/7. Just because.


What a waste of electrons ...









EDIT: So is the NanoSLI bearing just another sleeve bearing? Have you had any problems running them horizontally (extra noise / vibration) ?


----------



## mandrix

I have to confess I've never tried painting fans, although more and more you see people doing it. You obviously have it down at this point.
Might have to give it a go sometime. Thanks for the detailed look.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> ಠ_ಠ


What he said.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> What a waste of electrons ...


Yeah....you're probably right. Back to drones, I guess. Drones.......that follow Paris Hilton around....have an accompanying Android app that will let you all log on anonymously and watch the live video feed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> EDIT: So is the NanoSLI bearing just another sleeve bearing? Have you had any problems running them horizontally (extra noise / vibration) ?


It looks sleeve'esque I guess. I haven't broken one down completely to see what is inside the axis. Maybe I'll do that with one of my extras when I'm done. The strange part is that all sleeve bearings, that I know of, are sealed. This one is not. No round clips to remove...you just pop the fan blades on and off. Not sure what they've done here....but it was the quietest and best sounding of all the fans I auditioned, and I auditioned a lot. No difference vertical or horizontal. And SOOOOO easy to paint, since you take them apart in seconds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I have to confess I've never tried painting fans, although more and more you see people doing it. You obviously have it down at this point.
> Might have to give it a go sometime. Thanks for the detailed look.


I find painting fans kind of fun. Some people hate it though.


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of fans from last night.

It's a whole fan family. Daddy (140mm), Mama (120mm) and Baby (40mm)




I mean....how cute are these little fans? If you're trying to convince your girlfriend that you need to drop a bundle on a new rig...just show her this picture and tell her she can have lots of them in her favorite colors. You'll have her.



I still have to do the cable/sleeving on these...but wanted to show you where I was with them.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> It looks sleeve'esque I guess. I haven't broken one down completely to see what is inside the axis. Maybe I'll do that with one of my extras when I'm done. The strange part is that all sleeve bearings, that I know of, are sealed. This one is not. No round clips to remove...you just pop the fan blades on and off. Not sure what they've done here....but it was the quietest and best sounding of all the fans I auditioned, and I auditioned a lot. No difference vertical or horizontal. And SOOOOO easy to paint, since you take them apart in seconds. .


Thanks for the info. Actually ordered 3 Arctic F14's today to replace the Phobyas I have now on my 420 (yea, shocker, some people don't buy fans in packs of 50







). Perhaps I should have tried out NBs ... Always had very good experiences with arctic cooling stuff and I really didn't want to spend € 15 - 20 / fan (F14s are 9 each).
These Phobyas I have now also come apart super easy but they make the worst rumbling noise I ever heard when mounted horizontally (all of them, so it's not 1 faulty fan). Possibly the worst fans I have ever owned ...








(Full name: Phobya G-silent 14 1400rpm Black Silent







Edition . Do NOT buy, unless you really want them for some stupid reason and are going to use them vertically)

EDIT: Oh sneaky sneaker ! Posting some pics while I'm typing a reply. Almost closed this tab


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> yea, shocker, some people don't buy fans in packs of 50


say what?!!! packs of 100 then, right?!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> These Phobyas I have now also come apart super easy but they make the worst rumbling noise I ever heard when mounted horizontally (all of them, so it's not 1 faulty fan). Possibly the worst fans I have ever owned ...


Yes, the Phobyas were part of my audition...and they were loud. Good lookin'.....but loud.


----------



## cpachris

Here is the family....plus all the cousins, Aunts and Uncles. In this batch, I did 4x 140mm, 7x 120mm, and 4x 40mm. But...as discussed, one of the baby fans didn't make it, so I'll be ordering some more today.



And no. The answer is no. There will be no domino videos with this batch.


----------



## Pidoma

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here is the family....plus all the cousins, Aunts and Uncles. In this batch, I did 4x 140mm, 7x 120mm, and 4x 40mm. But...as discussed, one of the baby fans didn't make it, so I'll be ordering some more today.
> 
> And no. The answer is no. There will be no domino videos with this batch.






They are missing little stickers too...


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> This computer will be used to locate, map and plot exact coordinates for Paris Hilton 24/7.


I am pretty confident that there is already an app for that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> And no. The answer is no. There will be no domino videos with this batch.


How about a fan tower? House of fans? No?

Spoil sport.


----------



## sunfish31831

hey chris you should fold that 3960x for team intel for the forum folding war http://www.overclock.net/t/1321570/2012-forum-folding-wars-the-intel-team


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> One in a million chance.
> Now.....in my Jim Carrey voice from Dumb and Dumber...."So you're telling me there's a chance!" May try the milk and cookies.
> Drones are so 13 seconds ago. This computer will be used to locate, map and plot exact coordinates for Paris Hilton 24/7. Just because.


Did you know, according to Terry Pratchett, one in a million chances are dramatic enough to crop up nine times out of ten?

Also that Paris Hilton stuff is ... ehm... I gotta go, like... now


----------



## GingerJohn

The thread opens with:

"Because I'm a touch lazy"

Chris goes on to present one of the least lazy builds I have seen.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> They are missing little stickers too...


Yes...they were. But you wouldn't be able to know for sure from that camera shot. I won't have any stickers on the fan blades. Just the frames.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> I am pretty confident that there is already an app for that.


Sweet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunfish31831*
> 
> hey chris you should fold that 3960x for team intel for the forum folding war


Folding is not really my thing. I'll save on my electricity bill and give more to the church.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Did you know, according to Terry Pratchett, one in a million chances are dramatic enough to crop up nine times out of ten?
> Also that Paris Hilton stuff is ... ehm... I gotta go, like... now


I had to google Terry....but he sounds like an interesting guy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> The thread opens with:
> "Because I'm a touch lazy"
> Chris goes on to present one of the least lazy builds I have seen.


Appreciate the compliment.


----------



## cpachris

Made some new vinyl stickers for the 140mm fans....for my friend Pidoma. Also did the sleeving and cleanup. These are done.



The 140mm fans will go in the pedestal on the 240mm radiator. So I spent some time in that area of the build today. Try as I might...the 240mm will not fit INSIDE the pedestal....even with the custom brackets that Caselabs made for me. It would fit....but there just wasn't enough space for the fittings and tubing connections. I still want that radiator...so its going on the outside of the pedestal. Not my first choice....but still works. Back of the case rarely seen, and its out of the way still.

But to mount the radiator on the back of the pedestal, I needed a cutout so that the radiator ports were available INSIDE the case. Didn't want to have tubing running outside the case. So...took my trusty Dremel, and went to work making a cutout. The aluminum is fairly thick for the frame, and it took awhile to cut it. Wasn't the neatest of jobs either, but with some rubber molding added...it looks ok.




Here is what the inside of the panel would look like with the radiator attached. Notice the ports are accessible...and I have a little extra room for wiring runs to the outside fans.



Here it is attached to the case, and all 4 fans on. Notice the small additional opening for wiring run possibility.





Once I get the 4 additional fan on the floor of the pedestal installed....the pedestal will be the home for 3 radiators, and 24 fans. Now that's one big box-o-cool!




I like how clean it all looks also, since the radiators are powdercoated same color as case (actually the exact same powder), and the white fans and white wiring. Doesn't look as junky as it could with this much stuff down there. Will be working on the power harnesses for all the radiator fans next...and figuring out how I'm going to do the transition between case and pedestal for the fan wiring. More to come!


----------



## Bloitz

Don't be surprised if I ring your door this weekend holding a bouquet of roses and ask that sweet pedestal out on a date...









PS: I always behave on first dates so don't worry


----------



## mandrix

I would scrap that dremel for a jigsaw. I buy the high tooth count metal blades and they do a good job. For a starting point I just drill a hole(s) larger than the blade and go from there.
But that's me. If I had to cut with my dremel it would look really bad without a lot of filing.
Works good for acrylic as well.

Your pedestal makes mine look like a baby. With the UT60's in push/pull there is only 1.5 - 1.75" between the fans.
But it gets the job done.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Don't be surprised if I ring your door this weekend holding a bouquet of roses and ask that sweet pedestal out on a date...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I always behave on first dates so don't worry


lol... I agree that is very nice looking. I have been following this thread from the beginning and wondering what I am going to do in my office when I first get there in the mornings when this build is done.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Made some new vinyl stickers for the 140mm fans....for my friend Pidoma. Also did the sleeving and cleanup. These are done.










loving it!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Don't be surprised if I ring your door this weekend holding a bouquet of roses and ask that sweet pedestal out on a date...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I always behave on first dates so don't worry


The pedestal will not be dating until she turns 16.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I would scrap that dremel for a jigsaw. I buy the high tooth count metal blades and they do a good job. For a starting point I just drill a hole(s) larger than the blade and go from there.
> But that's me. If I had to cut with my dremel it would look really bad without a lot of filing.
> Works good for acrylic as well.
> Your pedestal makes mine look like a baby. With the UT60's in push/pull there is only 1.5 - 1.75" between the fans.
> But it gets the job done.


I may try a jigsaw on the next cut. Got to be easier than the dremel. Frame is pretty thick.

Yeah...the TH10 ped is pretty roomy. But if I ever decide a rad upgrade is in order....I may go with 140.3's in the ped, and that would allow me to move the 240 on the inside of the pedestal.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> lol... I agree that is very nice looking. I have been following this thread from the beginning and wondering what I am going to do in my office when I first get there in the mornings when this build is done.


I appreciate the kind words! But I can't worry about your mornings....once I'm done....I'll need to start thinking about what I'LL do in the mornings.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> loving it!


Thank you sir!


----------



## cpachris

My 2nd 32GB Corsair replacement kit came via UPS today. I'll be sticking these 4 dimms in tonight, and then starting memtest. It may take more than a day for it to make a decent # of passes with 64GB in there. I leave for NYC Saturday morning...so I'll let it spin on memtest until then, and see where its at. I'm really hoping I've got good memory here, and won't have any other components to RMA.


----------



## Systemlord

My father came over tonight and when he saw your pedestal he asked if it was for expanding the radiator capacity of someone's car or truck, I let out a loud long laugh while tilting my computer chair backwards! When I told him what it was for he said, "you are full of ****"! I then proceeded to point down to my lower chamber and the moment he saw two huge radiators he responded, dear God!

Laughing, more laughing.....


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> My father came over tonight and when he saw your pedestal he asked if it was for expanding the radiator capacity of someone's car or truck, I let out a loud long laugh while tilting my computer chair backwards! When I told him what it was for he said, "you are full of ****"! I then proceeded to point down to my lower chamber and the moment he saw two huge radiators he responded, dear God!
> Laughing, more laughing.....


That IS funny.
Reminds me that 100% of the people I speak computers with is online, excluding my wife who wonders why I spend so much money.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> That IS funny.
> Reminds me that 100% of the people I speak computers with is online, excluding my wife who wonders why I spend so much money.


My wife asks the same thing after seeing the bill... Is this really needed. I always respond with yes....


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> My father came over tonight and when he saw your pedestal he asked if it was for expanding the radiator capacity of someone's car or truck, I let out a loud long laugh while tilting my computer chair backwards! When I told him what it was for he said, "you are full of ****"! I then proceeded to point down to my lower chamber and the moment he saw two huge radiators he responded, dear God!
> Laughing, more laughing.....


Lol. Yes...radiators for computers are still a completely foreign concept for the masses.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> ...excluding my wife who wonders why I spend so much money.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> My wife asks the same thing after seeing the bill... Is this really needed. I always respond with yes....


I'm telling you....just make her a baby fan in her favorite colors, and she'll never complain again!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Lol. Yes...radiators for computers are still a completely foreign concept for the masses.
> I'm telling you....just make her a baby fan in her favorite colors, and she'll never complain again!


First I thought you where going to say just make her a baby


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> First I thought you where going to say just make her a baby


Ha! That would cost more than my build.


----------



## Defunctronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ha! That would cost more than my build.


This made me laugh hard for a solid 30 seconds.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I may try a jigsaw on the next cut. Got to be easier than the dremel. Frame is pretty thick.
> 
> Hey Chris, haven't had the chance to get my daily fill of your log, I've spent the past week trying to kick the flu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good thing I'm feeling better because I have military drill this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey man, how about using this cut out tool, do make your cuts while modding. I use mine to make my 120mm and 140mm fan cutouts in my pedestals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Bare-Tool-DC550B-18-Volt-Cordless/dp/B002VWK5TG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351876345&sr=8-1&keywords=DEWALT+CUTOUT+TOOL


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Hey Chris, haven't had the chance to get my daily fill of your log, I've spent the past week trying to kick the flu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good thing I'm feeling better because I have military drill this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey man, how about using this cut out tool, do make your cuts while modding. I use mine to make my 120mm and 140mm fan cutouts in my pedestals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Bare-Tool-DC550B-18-Volt-Cordless/dp/B002VWK5TG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351876345&sr=8-1&keywords=DEWALT+CUTOUT+TOOL


Might have to try one of those. I prefer buying corded equipment though. Have you had good luck with the DeWalt cordless stuff? Plenty of power?


----------



## TPE-331

I love Dewalt's cordless tools. I have a ton of Dewalt's cordless drills, impact drivers, a jigsaw, a right angle drill, a cordless screwdriver kit, and the cutout tool. Heck I even have their cordless wet/dry vacuum







Just bought it last week. Their cordless tools are great with plenty of power. I prefer Dewalt over Makita, Milwaukee and a few others out there. If you wanted the corded version, dewalt has one. The kit that sells on Amazon comes with the "Perfect circle maker" attachments.







something I wish my cordless version came with but it didn't.









http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW660SK-Rotary-Cut-Out-Collets/dp/B00005RHQ0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1351886657&sr=8-3&keywords=dewalt+cutout+tool


----------



## cpachris

Ok. These new 4 sticks of ram have run 17+ hours and are on the 5th pass. Zero errors. I'm going to stop and call them good.



I changed my mind at the last moment and swapped out the other 4 sticks for these...instead of running all 8 sticks at the same time. So...now I'm starting memtest again with all 8 sticks (64GB) in and we'll see what happens. Probably won't get too far into the test before I have to pull the plug and leave for the airport in the morning.


----------



## TPE-331

Looks like your 4 sticks passed with flying colors.







Have a good trip Chris.


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I had to google Terry....but he sounds like an interesting guy.
> Appreciate the compliment.


His Discworld novels are absolutely awesome. He got me into english literature an awful lot of years ago with "Mort" and every single book has been awesome so far.

That pedestal looks like pure overkill and the paintjob again is top notch. You sound pretty certain about the "turning 16" business, bummer









Have a safe trip to NYC!


----------



## socketus

hey hey hey ! wow. the build that rivals any long term build, or re-defines the long term build.

Anyways, I was commiserating with a fellow J-hawker about this year's football rebuilding - sort of a long term project in KU land








And a strange thought occurred to me, perhaps after seeing the Irish Caths roll the Sooners the other week ....

Its a strange coincidence about your name and this term - I haven't done my word lookup - but apparently there is a condition called "Chrysophobia" - which is the specific fear of the color *orange* which affects 250,000 Americans. It is defined as a fear of anything holding the color or resembling the color orange and can differ between having an extreme distaste for the color to being unable to touch something or view something orange. Chromophobia is the fear of colors in general.

Is it possible to be compelled by a fear in a way that the fear manifests itself in a seeming compulsion to "paint" the world - your pc build - orange ?

just j/k ... now I'm looking for a term that describes a fear of the combination of the colors crimson and blue








Coz till the hoops season gets started, life is fairly miserable on Snob Hill


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> My wife asks the same thing after seeing the bill... Is this really needed. I always respond with yes....


wait when did you marry my mother?







but its probably the common thing between young/married people lol


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> wait when did you marry my mother?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but its probably the common thing between young/married people lol


I'm young AND married. I have to argue with her to get the most basic necessities. Like, say, CS:GO.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> I'm young AND married. I have to argue with her to get the most basic necessities. Like, say, CS:GO.










im young and single, had my first and last GF when i was 13, was the most boring 2 weeks of my life.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im young and single, had my first and last GF when i was 13, *was the most boring 2 weeks of my life.*


That's probably because you were doing it wrong.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> That's probably because you were doing it wrong.


my thoughts exactly.


----------



## rasa123

This build looks amazing! And what a nice choice of colors, if I don't say so myself.







Currently attending OU.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> That's probably because you were doing it wrong.


lol *mr. bean face*


----------



## tpb211

Your build inspired me! Just waiting for the Caselabs STH-10 to show up and will begin my 5 Radiator (2 560's,1 480,1 360, 1 240 -all black ice GTX's), 40 fan build









Thanks for putting up such a great build log!


----------



## TheHarvman313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Your build inspired me! Just waiting for the Caselabs STH-10 to show up and will begin my 5 Radiator (2 560's,1 480,1 360, 1 240 -all black ice GTX's), 40 fan build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for putting up such a great build log!


I am so jealous! Look at all that pc goodness in that picture!!!


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Your build inspired me! Just waiting for the Caselabs STH-10 to show up and will begin my 5 Radiator (2 560's,1 480,1 360, 1 240 -all black ice GTX's), 40 fan build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for putting up such a great build log!


Chris you're such a bad influence...


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Your build inspired me! Just waiting for the Caselabs STH-10 to show up and will begin my 5 Radiator (2 560's,1 480,1 360, 1 240 -all black ice GTX's), 40 fan build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for putting up such a great build log!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ok, we've seen that pic 3x now !! *tpb211* - you SHOULD and had BETTA start a build lawg ! What country did you just surpass on the GDP list ? I mean, how many pockets did you stimulate ?
2 690s - an Aquaero - 40 fans - 5 rads - and a build log for another CaseLabs build









* there's a 12 days of CaseLabs song waiting ...


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Ok, we've seen that pic 3x now !! *tpb211* - you SHOULD and had BETTA start a build lawg ! What country did you just surpass on the GDP list ? I mean, how many pockets did you stimulate ?
> 2 690s - an Aquaero - 40 fans - 5 rads - and a build log for another CaseLabs build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * there's a 12 days of CaseLabs song waiting ...


oh lol hes not in turkey he doesnt need to fill pockets to pass all this stuff lol


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> hey hey hey ! wow. the build that rivals any long term build, or re-defines the long term build.
> 
> ......Coz till the hoops season gets started, life is fairly miserable on Snob Hill


Thank you. And yes...Kansas football is as bad as it gets. But Kansas basketball is as good as it gets. Kind of funny how traditions can dominate athletic makeup of a school for decades.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rasa123*
> 
> This build looks amazing! And what a nice choice of colors, if I don't say so myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently attending OU.


Another Sooner! I've already started the "wait till next year" chant.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Your build inspired me! Just waiting for the Caselabs STH-10 to show up and will begin my 5 Radiator (2 560's,1 480,1 360, 1 240 -all black ice GTX's), 40 fan build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for putting up such a great build log!


OOoooooooo. If you take nice pictures....looks like this one could be fun to watch. Do please share a link to the build log when you start.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> .....I mean, how many pockets did you stimulate ?


nah. i'll leave that one alone. it would just be too easy.


----------



## cpachris

Got back Monday night...but I've been trying to finish the memory testing since. Got some info and some questions for you memory experts out there. May post this in the memory thread also.

Background: After a couple of bad kits and required RMA's, I've ended up with two separate 32GB Corsair Dominator GT kits with rated specs of 1,866 MHz at 9-10-9-27 timings. So....8 sticks total, at 8 GB per stick, for 64 GB total.

I've successfully tested each kit individually (4 sticks at a time) at the rated specs, and they run flawless. 12+ hours of memtest86 with no errors, and 12+ hours of Prime95 blend. No issues. And no heat issues either.

But....when I try and run all 8 sticks at the same time, at rated specs, I can't get the machine to post. And I've tried loosening the timings at various steps all the way up to 14-15-14-42, and still can't get stability. I can usually get the machine to post and windows to load if I increase voltage just a touch to 1.51 volts, but then Prime95 fails quickly. I've tried increasing voltage, at different timings, in small steps all the way up to 1.59 volts, with no success. When I research online...it sounds like my experience is not unusual. Apparently not many IMC's will run 8 sticks at more than 1,600 MHz.

So...next I turned the frequency down to 1,600 Mhz, and was able to successfully run memtest86 and Prime, with all 8 sticks, at the rated timings of 9-10-9-27. Rock solid. I played with tightening up the timings some, and got down to 8-8-8-24 while staying at 1.5 volts, and 1,600 MHz. That's the best I could do with all 8 sticks and 64GB installed.

Next I decided to see what kind of overclock I could get on just 4 sticks (or 32GB). I manually adjusted frequency to 2,133 MHz, and loosened up the timings significantly to 13-13-13-37. At first it wouldn't boot...but I gradually increased DRAM voltage in 0.1 increment steps....and once I got to 1.56 volts, I could boot the machine into Windows. memtest86 and Prime95 blend ran flawlessly. I started tightening up the timings one bit at a time, and got down to 11-11-11-31 and could still run memtest86 and Prime95 blend flawlessly. However, at 10-10-10-29 and 1.56 volts, it wouldn't boot. I dialed back a notch to 10-11-10-30.....and I could boot again....but it failed Prime95 quickly. I increased the DRAM voltage to 1.57......and now it runs memtest86 and Prime95 flawlessly again.

It takes time to zero in on the tightest timings for a given frequency and/or voltage. I'm going to keep tweaking...and probably can get a little bit better. But I wanted to ask you memory experts out there a question and hope for some constructive comments also.

Right now, I could choose between the following setups that have proved stable:

a) 64GB (8x8) running at 1,600Mhz and 8-8-8-24 timings, and 1.5 volts
b) 32GB (8x4) running at 1,866Mhz and 9-10-9-27 timings, and 1.5 volts
c) 32GB (8x4) running at 2,133Mhz and 10-11-10-30 timings and 1.57 volts

Questions for you:

1) Which of the 3 scenarios above would you choose and why?
2) Any suggestions for trying to reach 1,866Mhz with all 8 sticks installed?
3) Will any of the setups unduly hinder my future CPU overclock goals?
4) How bad is it to run 1.5 volt memory at 1.57 if you keep it up 24/7?
5) Max DRAM voltage I should consider safe for a 24/7 box?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> a) 64GB (8x8) running at 1,600Mhz and 8-8-8-24 timings, and 1.5 volts
> b) 32GB (8x4) running at 1,866Mhz and 9-10-9-27 timings, and 1.5 volts
> c) 32GB (8x4) running at 2,133Mhz and 10-11-10-30 timings and 1.57 volts
> Questions for you:
> 1) Which of the 3 scenarios above would you choose and why?


I don't feel qualified to respond to any of the other questions, but I personally wouldn't hesitate with option A. I can't justify 32gb of higher speed with looser timings (and higher voltages) over a doubly-large RAM setup with tighter timings. Definitely option A if you want to mess around with a RAMdisk.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> I don't feel qualified to respond to any of the other questions, but I personally wouldn't hesitate with option A. I can't justify 32gb of higher speed with looser timings (and higher voltages) over a doubly-large RAM setup with tighter timings. Definitely option A if you want to mess around with a RAMdisk.


I've researched a little on using a RAMdisk, but have never done one. Have you ever tried it? Did you use it to actually install certain programs...or just for scratch space?


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Right now, I could choose between the following setups that have proved stable:
> a) 64GB (8x8) running at 1,600Mhz and 8-8-8-24 timings, and 1.5 volts
> b) 32GB (8x4) running at 1,866Mhz and 9-10-9-27 timings, and 1.5 volts
> c) 32GB (8x4) running at 2,133Mhz and 10-11-10-30 timings and 1.57 volts
> Questions for you:
> 1) Which of the 3 scenarios above would you choose and why?
> 2) Any suggestions for trying to reach 1,866Mhz with all 8 sticks installed?
> 3) Will any of the setups unduly hinder my future CPU overclock goals?
> 4) How bad is it to run 1.5 volt memory at 1.57 if you keep it up 24/7?
> 5) Max DRAM voltage I should consider safe for a 24/7 box?
> Thanks in advance!


Right off the bat, I would rule out option b). Depending on wether you want to play around with a RAMdisk or not, I would go with option a) for RAMdisk and option c) for not (unless proven that your media work will gobble up over 32BG by itself in which case only a) remains)

As for your questions on safe voltage and CPU overclock: I don't have any of your hardware and do not know the intricate relations of your IMC and CPU multis/clock/strap nor the best voltages for prolonged operation.

I am very interested in the answer you get: I sold a similar setup to a client at work, but I can't get involved much right now because of schedule issues and other things.


----------



## stren

Option C unless you're running a ram disk there's no need for it. As you have a butt load of SSDs then I wouldn't bother with a ramdisk.

1.57 is hardly extreme. Most of us were running 1.65 on gulftown for years with no problems.


----------



## mandrix

Far from a memory expert, but fast ram gets fast benchmarks. Other than that I don't see much real world benefit. I'm with stren on the voltage though, 1.57 isn't going to kill it.
64GB, I don't know what you'll be doing but could be handy if you run a DAW or something latency dependent I guess.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> ....I personally wouldn't hesitate with option A. I can't justify 32gb of higher speed with looser timings (and higher voltages) over a doubly-large RAM setup with tighter timings. Definitely option A if you want to mess around with a RAMdisk.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Right off the bat, I would rule out option b). Depending on wether you want to play around with a RAMdisk or not, I would go with option a) for RAMdisk and option c) for not (unless proven that your media work will gobble up over 32BG by itself in which case only a) remains)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Option C unless you're running a ram disk there's no need for it. As you have a butt load of SSDs then I wouldn't bother with a ramdisk.
> 1.57 is hardly extreme. Most of us were running 1.65 on gulftown for years with no problems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Far from a memory expert, but fast ram gets fast benchmarks. Other than that I don't see much real world benefit. I'm with stren on the voltage though, 1.57 isn't going to kill it.
> 64GB, I don't know what you'll be doing but could be handy if you run a DAW or something latency dependent I guess.


I guess I won't know for sure my memory needs until I get more. Right now, I have 12gb in my X58 box....and I routinely use up all of it when I'm working with video editing and rendering. So I know I can use more....just don't know how much more.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I guess I won't know for sure my memory needs until I get more. Right now, I have 12gb in my X58 box....and I routinely use up all of it when I'm working with video editing and rendering. So I know I can use more....just don't know how much more.


You could start with 64GB, see how much memory you use. Once you know: if it close to 32GB you canmake the choice between faster RAM or the RAMdrive. Based solely on documentation for the RAMdrive, it can make the best scratch drive and save some write cycles on your SSD array. You could also compare it to running 32GB at 2133MHz with your SSDs as scratch drive and decide which works best for you.


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> You could start with 64GB, see how much memory you use. Once you know: if it close to 32GB you canmake the choice between faster RAM or the RAMdrive. Based solely on documentation for the RAMdrive, it can make the best scratch drive and save some write cycles on your SSD array. You could also compare it to running 32GB at 2133MHz with your SSDs as scratch drive and decide which works best for you.


This.

Also, to answer your question, yeah -- I tried a RAMdisk once on a workstation I borrowed from a friend. It was stupidly fast but not worth the hassle in my opinion. Especially for you, since you'll have multiple SSD's in RAID configurations, a RAMdisk isn't a particularly attractive option. Definitely benchmark your three options, though, to see which benefits you most.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Go for option A but increase the voltage to 1.65-1.7v to fully unleash the potential of those dimms. Anything under 1.6v is weaksauce if you're serious about pushing ram speeds with high densities.


----------



## Hattifnatten

Won't Sandy-bridge take damage for using more than 1,65v on mem after a while?


----------



## BorisTheSpider

What's the score with X79 and IMC voltage - I know with 4 slots populated on P67 I need to bump VCCIO to be stable, if I recall correctly I run it at 1.2v. I have no idea what a safe voltage for that would be on your chipset, or indeed if it's even adjustable, but if it is it's worth looking at and might get 64GB stable for you at 1866 or higher.


----------



## Reglar

Finally caught up on this thread, your build is looking great! Can't wait to see how it performs.

PS. Po says hi.


----------



## mandrix

After looking around I don't think I can better your USB 3.0 sleeving method. I have ordered some Flexo pet 3/8 sleeving.









Which/what size shrink tubing did you use?

I have some larger shrink but it's a real bear to try to expand, if needed. I believe I got it at FTW PC some months back.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> You could start with 64GB, see how much memory you use. Once you know: if it close to 32GB you canmake the choice between faster RAM or the RAMdrive. Based solely on documentation for the RAMdrive, it can make the best scratch drive and save some write cycles on your SSD array. You could also compare it to running 32GB at 2133MHz with your SSDs as scratch drive and decide which works best for you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> This.
> Also, to answer your question, yeah -- I tried a RAMdisk once on a workstation I borrowed from a friend. It was stupidly fast but not worth the hassle in my opinion. Especially for you, since you'll have multiple SSD's in RAID configurations, a RAMdisk isn't a particularly attractive option. Definitely benchmark your three options, though, to see which benefits you most.


Yeah...since I already bought the 64gb, I'll probably use all of it at first and see how much of it my memory intensive applications will actually use. If I don't approach 32gb....then I'll drop down to 32gb and bump the frequency to 2,133 or higher. I've got the Aida64 program which has some memory benchmarks. Any other nice ones to suggest?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Go for option A but increase the voltage to 1.65-1.7v to fully unleash the potential of those dimms. Anything under 1.6v is weaksauce if you're serious about pushing ram speeds with high densities.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> Won't Sandy-bridge take damage for using more than 1,65v on mem after a while?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BorisTheSpider*
> 
> What's the score with X79 and IMC voltage - I know with 4 slots populated on P67 I need to bump VCCIO to be stable, if I recall correctly I run it at 1.2v. I have no idea what a safe voltage for that would be on your chipset, or indeed if it's even adjustable, but if it is it's worth looking at and might get 64GB stable for you at 1866 or higher.


I tried bumping DRAM voltage all the way to 1.65....and still couldn't get 1,866Mhz stable with all 8 sticks installed. I could get it to post....which was an improvement....but it was not stable. Would fail on a Prime95 run. The Asrock bios is already defaulting the VCCIO voltage to 1.2....and I don't want to try any higher than that. I don't think 1,866Mhz is going to be possible with all 8 sticks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Finally caught up on this thread, your build is looking great! Can't wait to see how it performs.
> PS. Po says hi.


Thanks Reglar! Glad you're back and working on your build. I've had to settle for watching Kung-Fun Panda about 3 times while you've been leveling up.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> After looking around I don't think I can better your USB 3.0 sleeving method. I have ordered some Flexo pet 3/8 sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which/what size shrink tubing did you use?
> I have some larger shrink but it's a real bear to try to expand, if needed. I believe I got it at FTW PC some months back.


I tried lots of options before settling on that method. Would love for someone to find a better way....but until then....it might be the way to go. I was using some 1 inch heatshrink. It's actually a little large. Would like for it to shrink down smaller. 3/4 inch would probably be perfect size, but had trouble finding anything inbetween 1/2 inch and 1 inch here in the US. I have some 22mm and 18mm 3:1 shrink coming from Hong Kong right now, and I'll see if that works any better.


----------



## cpachris

I've been working on making power harnesses today. Finished two more. One to power the eight "push" fans in the pedestal 480's, and one to power the eight "pull" fans in the pedestal 480's.

So, for those counting, ...I now have 37 of my 52 fans spinning. The NB multi-frame fans are still quiet as can be also. I can't hear them above the sound of the CPU/GPU and Chipset fans. Can't wait to get those under water.


----------



## Wenis

I really love this build. I finally got thru all of the posts, and I must say that this stuff amazes me. Puts my rig to shame! Keep up the good work, and keep inspiring me and all the other subscribers that can't stop drooling!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> -snip-
> I tried lots of options before settling on that method. Would love for someone to find a better way....but until then....it might be the way to go. I was using some 1 inch heatshrink. It's actually a little large. Would like for it to shrink down smaller. 3/4 inch would probably be perfect size, but had trouble finding anything inbetween 1/2 inch and 1 inch here in the US. I have some 22mm and 18mm 3:1 shrink coming from Hong Kong right now, and I'll see if that works any better.


I used some 16mm sleeving I got a while back from modDIY and it worked out pretty good, fits over the connector without modding and pulls up fairly snug. But what looks funky is the 1" (I think it's 1") shrink. In fact It makes it look fugly.
So I need to order some shrink, I guess, although it takes forever to get here from modDIY. I keep looking for some stateside, but no luck yet except 1/4" black shrink from Allied Electronics real cheap.

BTW I remember now that I bought several sizes of sleeve from modDIY a good while back to see what would fit over USB 3.0 connecters. The 16mm works out pretty good but I went ahead and ordered techflex anyway to see what it has to offer. Not crazy about slicing on the connector, though, so I may stick with the 16mm.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wenis*
> 
> I really love this build. I finally got thru all of the posts, and I must say that this stuff amazes me. Puts my rig to shame! Keep up the good work, and keep inspiring me and all the other subscribers that can't stop drooling!


Thanks Wenis!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I used some 16mm sleeving I got a while back from modDIY and it worked out pretty good, fits over the connector without modding and pulls up fairly snug. But what looks funky is the 1" (I think it's 1") shrink. In fact It makes it look fugly.
> So I need to order some shrink, I guess, although it takes forever to get here from modDIY. I keep looking for some stateside, but no luck yet except 1/4" black shrink from Allied Electronics real cheap.
> BTW I remember now that I bought several sizes of sleeve from modDIY a good while back to see what would fit over USB 3.0 connecters. The 16mm works out pretty good but I went ahead and ordered techflex anyway to see what it has to offer. Not crazy about slicing on the connector, though, so I may stick with the 16mm.


Yeah,....modDIY is where mine is coming from too. Takes forever from Hong Kong.


----------



## cpachris

Finished harness for the "push" 240 rad fans. That's 39 of 52 fans spinning. That's 75%.


----------



## cpachris

Finished harness for the "pull" 240 rad fans. That's 41 of 52 fans spinning. 79%.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Keep up the good work! And post up a few new pics of your sleeving to show off your work!


----------



## Wonky Sausage

Quote:


> Goals for Build:
> This machine will be used primarily for surfing OCN
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i7-3960X
> GPU: 2x EVGA GTX 690's


I like you man.

If you're just doing video editing and gaming, anything above 1600Mhz RAM won't be noticeable.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Keep up the good work! And post up a few new pics of your sleeving to show off your work!


got a couple on the way.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wonky Sausage*
> 
> *************************
> Goals for Build:
> This machine will be used primarily for surfing OCN
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i7-3960X
> GPU: 2x EVGA GTX 690's
> 
> **************************
> 
> I like you man.


Dad told me... "Whatever you choose to do....do it the best you can."


----------



## cpachris

Last week I painted some additional 120mm fans. Today, I gave them the remaining treatment, which like last time, included:

- shorten wiring
- replace black connector with white
- sleeve and heatshrink
- custom stickers

They came out as great as the first batch of 42 fans from several months ago. Showing off my son's latest Lego creation in the background:



These 4 are going in the custom pedestal floor that CaseLabs made me. The normal pedestal floors have no fan holes. I wanted to pull in some fresh air from underneath the box to make sure the rads have some more fresh air. Ultimately, the case will be sitting on a stand that allows even greater airflow underneath the case. Here is the pedestal floor with the 4 fans installed, sitting beside the case.



Going to go work on the power harness for these 4 fans while I'm on a roll. More to come!


----------



## TPE-331

Chris, I love the fan layout on the pedestal floor. Can you take a scale or a pair of calipers and let me know what the distance is between each fan hole? I might holesaw 3 holes in the bottom my pedestal to add more fans for the same purpose.


----------



## cpachris

May not understand exactly what you're asking....but the distance between the circumference of the fan hole cutouts is 1/4 inch. But...that is to fit 4 of them in a tidy fashion. If you're only after 3...I'd just lay them out like you want to place them...and mark from there.


----------



## cpachris

One more power harness done, with a picture. Same as all of them...you can unplug individual fans for maintenance and/or replacement. Each power harness is a separate channel on the AQ5's....so I can control the group independently of other fans.

This increases my count to 45 out of 52 fans spinning, ....or 87%. CORRECTION.....damn. I do have 45 done....but just counted again and I still have 10 left....not 7. So...it's 45 out of 55....or 82%.

This is still the custom pedestal floor with the fan cutouts....



Now I've got all 24 fans in the pedestal wired up. Next...I'll be working on how to pass these power connections through to the main compartment. I want to do something modular so that the main case could be lifted off of the pedestal for maintenance, without a lot of hassle. Playing with some ideas.....


----------



## mandrix

You can get those Amphenol circular connectors that have from a few contacts up to around 60. Or go to Allied Electronics and order a free catalog and look at options.
You can always get the board level type connectors but if you do like I think you will want to, probably be better off with industrial type. You will want something rugged that can withstand not being perfectly aligned during connection, not something with tiny pins.

_Next day edit:_ Clarifying what I said earlier, I'm just assuming you want a hands-free solution? Now that would be nice and why I suggest the industrial type (non twist locking?). But a manual quick disconnect could be made as well. I've mulled it over and for my purposes not worthwhile, but I only have two wires running to my pedestal at this time.

What is the total number of harnesses you have/will have for fans in the pedestal?


----------



## Quest99

Love it! Looking clean as usual.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You can get those Amphenol circular connectors that have from a few contacts up to around 60. Or go to Allied Electronics and order a free catalog and look at options.
> You can always get the board level type connectors but if you do like I think you will want to, probably be better off with industrial type. You will want something rugged that can withstand not being perfectly aligned during connection, not something with tiny pins.
> _Next day edit:_ Clarifying what I said earlier, I'm just assuming you want a hands-free solution? Now that would be nice and why I suggest the industrial type (non twist locking?). But a manual quick disconnect could be made as well. I've mulled it over and for my purposes not worthwhile, but I only have two wires running to my pedestal at this time.
> What is the total number of harnesses you have/will have for fans in the pedestal?


I checked out the Amphenol connectors. Had not heard of those before. They are probably a little overkill for what I have in mind. Something manual is fine. I've played with several approaches and think I've zero'd in on what I'll do. What I'm after is just an easy way to manually plug/unplug all connections going down into the pedestal, so that the main case can be lifted off when necessary. Seems easy, ....but creates some challenges. It's impossible to reach down into the pedestal when the case in on top of it...so the connection side must exist in the main case. That means the pedestal must have wiring extended up into the main case for the connection. But I want the wire secured to the pedestal so it doesn't drop back down inside the pedestal during maintenance. It's going to require a little drilling and cutting....but I've got an idea.

I'll have the following pedestal connections:

- 5 power harnesses for fans
- 2 coolant tubes
- 1 SATA data cable
- 1 SATA power cable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Love it! Looking clean as usual.


Quest! Hadn't heard from you in awhile....was hoping you hadn't given up on OCN! Hope life is treating you well.


----------



## mandrix

OK there is a virtual plethora of connector types to be had, for sure.


----------



## cpachris

Here are some brief pictures of the pass through process I'm trying. First need to drill some holes on top of the pedestal frame towards the back of the pedestal.









I then connected my power harness to 8 of the fans....



..and ran one end up through the bottom of the hole I drilled.



Then put a 3pin female fan connector on the wires coming up through the pedestal...



Then put on some shrink and tuck it back down into the hole. The connector is large enough so that it won't push down through the hole. It's anchored firmly against the pedestal case.




Went ahead and did a couple more of them....




Now for those that own the pedestal...you know the next problem. When I sit the case down on top of the pedestal...it would crush these connectors. So...what I need to do next is make a cutout in the bottom of the main case frame that will sit on top of where the connectors are. The spot would be at the rear of the case, behind my AMS 360 rad, and below the PSU's. It will be practically invisible....and even when seen, should look pretty clean. The cut-out will be right in this area to the right of the rad, and below the PSU.



The connectors will just be sitting there when the case is put on top. I'll have additional wiring in the main case that connects a PowerAdjust2 to one of these extruding connectors. When I want to take the main case off the pedestal...all I'll have to do is unplug the connector that is inside the main case...and lift it straight up and off. Reaching inside the pedestal to undo a connection would have been fairly impossible. And I didn't want to have to thread a long wire connection all the way back down through the pedestal hole just to remove the main case from the pedestal.

I think this approach will work for what I'm trying to do. I'll post more pics after I do the cutout and finish the connections.


----------



## mandrix

Sounds like a plan.
Since I have the 120.4 bottom in my case I have my wiring running through a grommet from one of the fan hole cover plates, located almost under the pump. I just unplug the wiring and drop it into the pedestal. I can unthread my tubing bulkhead connectors up top and let that drop as well.


----------



## mandrix

New version of Aquasuite out if you didn't already know.


----------



## Father Fuzzy

Sweet job on the fan cables Chris








clean looking pedestal wow
makes me want to rethink mine


----------



## Mainsil

This is like watching the New Yankee's Workshop; I admire the skill and craftsmanship, even if I lack the patience or time to even attempt a project like this. When I retire, I might have the time, but patience will never be there.









Very entertaining build, and amazing attention to detail.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> New version of Aquasuite out if you didn't already know.


Saw that! The desktop widgets look pretty neat. Have you played with it yet?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Father Fuzzy*
> 
> Sweet job on the fan cables Chris
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> clean looking pedestal wow
> makes me want to rethink mine


Thanks! As Nike says...."Just Do It".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mainsil*
> 
> This is like watching the New Yankee's Workshop; I admire the skill and craftsmanship, even if I lack the patience or time to even attempt a project like this. When I retire, I might have the time, but patience will never be there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very entertaining build, and amazing attention to detail.


Much appreciated Mainsil.


----------



## mandrix

Yeah the new Aquasuite is pretty cool. I haven't done much more than set up monitoring/control with the old style windows. Eventually I'll get a few more pages configured and get everything on the desktop.


----------



## cpachris

Finished wiring the power harness pass throughs for the pedestal. I'm pretty happy with the results. Even with 24 fans, you can barely see any wiring. All wiring is sleeved in white MDPC-X...and most tucks neatly underneath the radiators. Unless you're looking hard...you won't even notice it. I think that's quite a feat for so many fans down there. Still need to do the cut-out in the main case so that the fan connectors are available in the main compartment....but here are some pics of current status.








And a couple with the side panels on.




With all 24 fans on....its still very quiet. These fans are awesome. When undervolted to about 900 rpm's....its silent. But still amazingly breezy in there. With the side fans all blowing right to left...its basically got 16 fans all blowing the same direction. Moves a lot of air with no noise. Fresh air gets brought in from the right side of the pedestal, and from underneath the pedestal. It exhausts out the left and the back.

In addition to the flow meter you can see in the pictures, I'm going to add a temperature sensor for the coolant, as well as the air. Also, the Blu-Ray will be housed down here, and my USB 3.0 card reader. Quite a useful little box.


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Looks great, especially the last shots with the side panels on.

What are you doing to do for dust filtration? I can't see anything in those side panels, but maybe there is a very fine mesh built in that I can't see?


----------



## cpachris

Thanks Boris. And good luck on your 1200i issue.

I'll just blow it out every few months with my compressor. Any filter that is effective at capturing dust....is also effective at reducing airflow. I'd much rather just use a blower on it every few months than reduce airflow significantly....and still have to clean out the filters anyway.


----------



## Quest99

Still around. House hunting is a full time job! LoL

I am happy that this build is still going strong. Although I missed the latest blocks studio pictures!?!

That pedestal is the sickest one I have ever seen!


----------



## mandrix

Hadn't picked up on the flow meter before. Looks like it's between the rads, are you going to have another one placed on the outflow side of both?
Looking good, and the size of that pedestal makes me envious for just a minute.









I've been using some pvc foam type filter material I picked up from modDIY. Nothing elegant looking yet as I wanted to gauge the effectiveness before I went full bore. It's fairly non restrictive and doesn't seem to clog up quickly. Of course it's keeping the larger stuff out but still picking up some degree of dust.
I'll try it a while longer and decide how I want to go but so far seems to be doing what I wanted, which is to keep out pet hair and at least some degree of dust without being a constant maintenance issue.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Wow that pedestal is SICK! Very deceiving how much work that went into creating that small portion of the build but the looks say it all!

Keep up the good work.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll just blow it out every few months with my compressor. Any filter that is effective at capturing dust....is also effective at reducing airflow. I'd much rather just use a blower on it every few months than reduce airflow significantly....and still have to clean out the filters anyway.


Every few months? Damn, IIRC you have 2 sweet shepherds + carpet ... That case will get dusty faster than that I reckon.

If you ever change your mind and thinking about filters: I can wholeheartedly recommend Demciflex filters. They aren't cheap but they filter very good yet aren't all that restrictive.
Nylon socks from the missus are a pretty decent DIY solution as well.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Still around. House hunting is a full time job! LoL
> I am happy that this build is still going strong. Although I missed the latest blocks studio pictures!?!
> That pedestal is the sickest one I have ever seen!


You're buying at an awesome time. Prices are depressed....rates are low. Good luck. You didn't miss the studio pics of the blocks...just got delayed a little bit. Surprised my gf, ...now my fiancee







...with a trip to NYC. Slowed me down and delayed the build. But I'm back at it hard now. Have 20+ people coming over for Thanksgiving....need use of my living room. Would like to install stuff instead of putting it away. We'll see how far I get.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Hadn't picked up on the flow meter before. Looks like it's between the rads, are you going to have another one placed on the outflow side of both?


I'll have two subloops and the main radiator loop....so I'll probably use 3 flow meters.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Wow that pedestal is SICK! Very deceiving how much work that went into creating that small portion of the build but the looks say it all!
> Keep up the good work.


Thank you kindly Farmer Boe!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Every few months? Damn, IIRC you have 2 sweet shepherds + carpet ... That case will get dusty faster than that I reckon.
> If you ever change your mind and thinking about filters: I can wholeheartedly recommend Demciflex filters. They aren't cheap but they filter very good yet aren't all that restrictive.
> Nylon socks from the missus are a pretty decent DIY solution as well.




My sweet little Maltese are offended that you think they are Shepherds and that they shed.









Ultimately the box will be on a wooden pedestal in my office that has a wooden floor. I'm sure it will pick up some dust, like any other computer, but should'nt be too bad. With filters...you're just trading cleaning rads for cleaning filters. And to be honest....I can blow out the radiators much more quickly than I could clean all the filters. And its more fun!


----------



## fkjac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Surprised my gf, ...now my fiancee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...with a trip to NYC


Congratulations! Just see too that it doesn't slow down the stream of awesome building









Looking forward to see this finished!


----------



## mandrix

Seeing that radiator on the back of the pedestal.........at first I was going to include an RX240 in my build and decided at the time to keep the inside radiator-free and only use the pedestal radiators. Now looking at your pedestal again gives me ideas. A "feature" of the SM8 pedestal is there are no fan openings in the back, unfortunately. However I do have a perfectly fine jigsaw, and one more idea to consider for future mods. Have to do some measuring.......









I can always come over here for inspiration.









One thing I wanted to ask you was about trimming the Akasa SATA data cables. What is your success rate? Mine is less than stellar, and I can't figure out why. When reassembling the two connectors I seem to have a problem with either bending the contacts, or else no functionality for reasons I can't see. I'm using a pair of pliers to mate the two pieces and pierce the contacts through the cable, but something does not work right all the time. If I do this several times (failed functionality) then the contacts are essentially useless and break off.
I see modDIY sells just the connectors and wondering if they are more robust than the stock ones.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fkjac*
> 
> Congratulations! Just see too that it doesn't slow down the stream of awesome building
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to see this finished!


Thanks fkjac! JennG is encouraging me to finish. She misses the living room.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Seeing that radiator on the back of the pedestal.........at first I was going to include an RX240 in my build and decided at the time to keep the inside radiator-free and only use the pedestal radiators. Now looking at your pedestal again gives me ideas. A "feature" of the SM8 pedestal is there are no fan openings in the back, unfortunately. However I do have a perfectly fine jigsaw, and one more idea to consider for future mods. Have to do some measuring.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can always come over here for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I wanted to ask you was about trimming the Akasa SATA data cables. What is your success rate? Mine is less than stellar, and I can't figure out why. When reassembling the two connectors I seem to have a problem with either bending the contacts, or else no functionality for reasons I can't see. I'm using a pair of pliers to mate the two pieces and pierce the contacts through the cable, but something does not work right all the time. If I do this several times (failed functionality) then the contacts are essentially useless and break off.
> I see modDIY sells just the connectors and wondering if they are more robust than the stock ones.


Hmmm....I've done 5 cables, and had a success rate of 100%. The only issue I've had is one of the 4 had a connector that is a little loose. Doesn't seem to click back into place like the others. But....even it works. I haven't experienced the contacts failing, but I've never had to try multiple times on putting it on. When I'm putting it back on....I'm using needle nose pliers and putting pressure right in the middle of the connector first, and then I do both ends. It has always pressed right down into the cable, and as long as you are doing it on the correct side of the cable, it should be making contact with wires underneath. Could you be damaging contact at all when you initially take it apart? Do they still look straight when you first take apart the connector?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Right now, I could choose between the following setups that have proved stable:
> 
> a) 64GB (8x8) running at 1,600Mhz and 8-8-8-24 timings, and 1.5 volts
> b) 32GB (8x4) running at 1,866Mhz and 9-10-9-27 timings, and 1.5 volts
> c) 32GB (8x4) running at 2,133Mhz and 10-11-10-30 timings and 1.57 volts
> 
> Questions for you:
> 
> 1) Which of the 3 scenarios above would you choose and why?
> 2) Any suggestions for trying to reach 1,866Mhz with all 8 sticks installed?
> 3) Will any of the setups unduly hinder my future CPU overclock goals?
> 4) How bad is it to run 1.5 volt memory at 1.57 if you keep it up 24/7?
> 5) Max DRAM voltage I should consider safe for a 24/7 box?


1. C unless I confirmed that the applications I was using would actually use enough RAM to have the extra 32GB be used. As far as I've seen, the only apps that would use that much are server processes, rendering, and custom-configured/made video encoding/decoding. To be honest, the inclusion of a very large RAID 0 SSD array negates most of the need for excess RAM. 64GB will be slower (and I'm not just talking about 2133 vs 1600; 32GB @ 1600 would be faster than 64GB @ 1600). It is also possible that having 8 dimms will not allow the motherboard to run quad-channel RAM, which would cause noticeable performance decreases across the board.

2. Play around with the DIMM and IMC voltages and settings. There are some very good guides from the GSkill techs that can also be used as reference when using other vendors' RAM. Also remember that increasing the timings will usually allow higher clocks (to a point).

3. Yes. Which ones and by how much depend on too many factors though. You'll just have to try them all.

4. As mentioned before, RAM (especially flagship RAM) has a pretty wide margin available for play. What's more, if your RAM is water cooled, you have even less to worry about.

5. I've read some people run at 1.7, but I personally wouldn't feel comfortable over 1.6 or 1.65. Upping DRAM voltage doesn't seem to help as much in OC as it did in the past. Also remember that playing with your IMC settings will affect RAM speeds and required voltages for stability as well.


----------



## cpachris

Thanks for the thoughts Electrocutor. I'm going to leave all 8 sticks in and see how much memory gets utilized when working with my Adobe stuff. It's usually during the video editing and rendering that all 12GB in current system gets utilized. So I'll see how much gets sucked up when 64GB is available. If it uses less than 32GB...then I'll probably drop down to option c. Although I am intrigued with the idea of a ramdisk. Ever try one?


----------



## Quest99

Congratulations on the engagement Chris! All the best.







I forgive you for not posting the blocks pictures.









Now if I can find the *right time* to propose to my gf as well....


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Congratulations on the engagement Chris! All the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgive you for not posting the blocks pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I can find the *right time* to propose to my gf as well....


Thanks Quest!

Follow Nike's advice. Just do it. Plus...sounds like you're going to have a house for her....right? No time like the present.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks for the thoughts Electrocutor. I'm going to leave all 8 sticks in and see how much memory gets utilized when working with my Adobe stuff. It's usually during the video editing and rendering that all 12GB in current system gets utilized. So I'll see how much gets sucked up when 64GB is available. If it uses less than 32GB...then I'll probably drop down to option c. Although I am intrigued with the idea of a ramdisk. Ever try one?


I have, things load lightning fast, if only you could put your OS on one you'd blow SSDs outta the water.


----------



## cpachris

I got the extra baby fans I mentioned I needed due to losing the round clips while disassembling. I painted them last night, and I'm installing today.

First...here is the power harness that will fire up the 4 baby fans and the back panel 120mm fan.



For the 4 baby fans, I ended up wiring them all together into one connection. I used white heatshrink to cover all exposed wires and joins, and then sleeved it up to the power connector.....



...and here they are spinning along with the back 120mm fan.



I can't show you the back yet since I don't have the stickers on. I've made them....but I don't have the right size circle cutter for them. Will order one and get those put on soon.

I love the look of the little fans. You can feel the air they are moving....but just a little bit. More for looks than performance. They don't make any real sound at all....very quiet. I think I finally have my total fan count finalized...and I've powered up 50 out of 56 fans now, ...or 89%. I have 6 more to go that are split among two power harnesses. Shouldn't be too tough to finish that this weekend.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks fkjac! JennG is encouraging me to finish. She misses the living room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm....I've done 5 cables, and had a success rate of 100%. The only issue I've had is one of the 4 had a connector that is a little loose. Doesn't seem to click back into place like the others. But....even it works. I haven't experienced the contacts failing, but I've never had to try multiple times on putting it on. When I'm putting it back on....I'm using needle nose pliers and putting pressure right in the middle of the connector first, and then I do both ends. It has always pressed right down into the cable, and as long as you are doing it on the correct side of the cable, it should be making contact with wires underneath. Could you be damaging contact at all when you initially take it apart? Do they still look straight when you first take apart the connector?


Everything looks good after disassembly. I must be damaging them somehow on reassembly, though I'm basically putting my pliers in the middle and squeezing. I'm trying to squeeze just enough for the pieces to lock together, but I must be overdoing it somehow.
I'll get some spares later and try again.


----------



## Tisca

Why add noisy "baby fans"?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> Why add noisy "baby fans"?


Epeen+looks+completeness. Doing something this expensive you do it right.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> Why add noisy "baby fans"?


You must have missed this......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> They don't make any real sound at all....very quiet.


Very quiet Noiseblocker fans. If they were noisy....I wouldn't be using them.


----------



## Yukss

ohh dear god.. i like the fact that i LOVE this modding hardware world.. i never get tired of see this kind of stuff... killer and great looking build.. keep going and full of pics


----------



## Tisca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> You must have missed this......
> Very quiet Noiseblocker fans. If they were noisy....I wouldn't be using them.


Ok. What size/model are they?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> Ok. What size/model are they?


40mm Black Silent Pro XM2 - 3,800 rpm

I'm always the first to say ignore the dBA ratings when comparing fans among manufacturers....but these are measured at 14dBA by NoiseBlocker....and that is much less than most of their 120mm fans. These things are quiet. ...plus your girlfriend will think their cute.


----------



## Tisca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 40mm Black Silent Pro XM2 - 3,800 rpm
> I'm always the first to say ignore the dBA ratings when comparing fans among manufacturers....but these are measured at 14dBA by NoiseBlocker....and that is much less than most of their 120mm fans. These things are quiet. ...plus your girlfriend will think their cute.


I'm guessing these are the quietest you've found since you don't compromise with any of your other parts. I could use new ones on my Sabertooth. The stock ones are inexcusably noisy. Have them mostly disabled now.


----------



## Rbby258

In adobe settings you can set how much mems used


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> In adobe settings you can set how much mems used


Yes, you can limit how much memory the programs will utilize....but that's not really relevant. I want to know how MUCH memory it can use....not how little it can use.


----------



## Rbby258

I've seen it use 96gb I assume you have cs6 aswell


----------



## mandrix

Those little fans are starting to grow on me. It's just that with everything color matched they seem to belong there.
Momma and babies.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> I've seen it use 96gb I assume you have cs6 aswell


Egads! What were you doing when it used 96GB? And what kind of machine had 96GB?

I'm on CS5.5 still, but will upgrade when this build is done.


----------



## Khepira

Love the baby fans! I might have missed this (there's quite a lot to catch up on!), but will your case end up being positive or negative air pressure?

It's always a pleasure to read a few pages of your thread before dashing to work, thanks for the fun!


----------



## kmac20

Its interesting that I came up with almost the same name, completely independent of this thread. I thought up "Badass Budget Build", made the thread, then saw this one! _after_ the fact. I swear it!

Just funny. You all know the saying after all, right?

*Great minds* think....like me!







Feel free to steal that as its freakin awesome and witty.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Egads! What were you doing when it used 96GB? And what kind of machine had 96GB?
> I'm on CS5.5 still, but will upgrade when this build is done.


I don't have firs hand knowledge, but I can make some kind of educated guest. Most likely it was on a Nehalem Dual Xeon setup with 12 DIMMs, quite probably populated with 8 GB registered ECC sticks. I'm glad to know that memory will be put to good use. I'll wait for confirmation from Rbby258.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My sweet little Maltese are offended that you think they are Shepherds and that they shed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ultimately the box will be on a wooden pedestal in my office that has a wooden floor. I'm sure it will pick up some dust, like any other computer, but should'nt be too bad. With filters...you're just trading cleaning rads for cleaning filters. And to be honest....I can blow out the radiators much more quickly than I could clean all the filters. And its more fun!


Woops. Sorry, I now realized I was confusing yours with Seekeroffun's build. He has 2 shepherds (and lovely furniture







) .
Cute dogs BTW, a bit too small and fluffy for my style though (I have 1 Rottweiler now, and will be getting a second one when I graduate and find a proper job, my rig's picture is an "old" picture of her)


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Egads! What were you doing when it used 96GB? And what kind of machine had 96GB?
> I'm on CS5.5 still, but will upgrade when this build is done.


rendering out some 4k stuff in premier pro cs6 used all the ram on a 2011 xeon build


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> rendering out some 4k stuff in premier pro cs6 used all the ram on a 2011 xeon build


Three DIMMs per channel? Or is it a dual socket with uneven RAM distribution?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Three DIMMs per channel? Or is it a dual socket with uneven RAM distribution?


12 slots


----------



## cpachris

Worked on a little plumbing this evening....after taking JennG to see Twilight. Pretty cool fight scene at the end.

I'm using my sink method of radiator flushing again. With my 1/2 inch ID tubing...it slides over my sink hose with ease. This forces a lot of water through the system when you turn it on full blast. I'm using another hose to return the water to the sink. I wasn't using a filter, but the water looked clean coming out of all 3 rads. I ran it for about an hour to flush it and leak test the fitting connections I had made between the 3 radiators.



Really needed to leak test the pedestal separately...because any leaks down here would be even tougher to fix once the main case was bolted. on.


I did have two connections that were dripping when I first started. Got those tightened up, and now everything is nice and dry. Feel confident.

All of the connections between the 3 radiators will be with fittings. You can kind of see what I did in the following pictures:







I'ml real happy with the connection between the rads done with the fittings. The white Bitspower with black logo looks real clean down there. However...I'm not real happy with the sound that the flow meter is making. It makes a fast clicking sound. It's pretty faint...and I may not be able to hear it once I get the main case on top of the pedestal....but the clicking was louder than I would have liked. If it can be heard once the case is on....I"ll need to explore other options.

Anybody else getting the faint clicking sound?


----------



## BorisTheSpider

[quote name="cpachris" url="/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/2420#post_18635886"
Anybody else getting the faint clicking sound?[/quote]

Mine did it and I almost returned it - it was making a horrendous noise, but then I read about other people who had the same problem, and it turns out the impeller needs to wear in.

I left mine with flow through it constantly (in a test loop, so at 1.5gpm or more) for at least 2 or 3 days before it completely went away, but ever since it is completely silent, as in "can't hear it even with your ear pressed against it" silent. (EDIT actually I just remembered the noise even came back during the first week or so, then went away again - it has been consistently silent ever since though)

I know aquacomputer also do an MPS flow sensor now with no moving parts, but I really don't think you'll need to change - I've read about several people having the same experience as me with them being very noisy and quieting down really well if given a bit of time.


----------



## frank anderson

Quote:


> Anybody else getting the faint clicking sound?


I am using 2 of the same flow meters, once you have it in your rig and covers closed, the fan noise will suppress the clicking noise, it's not noticeable.


----------



## socketus

Three radiators ??? not in the pedestal is it ? Am I going to have to go back selectively thru this thread .... ???

HOUSTON - we have pre-main case bolting on stage counting T minus ... seriously, that take a crane to get the case onto this pedestal ? It can't weigh that much, but still .... the pedestal, I meant.
Don't even wanna think what the main case might weigh in at !

*ADD*: Lawd gawd amighty !!! When I was looking at your fan stickers, the only THANG missing for me, was an orange football in the middle of the OU logo, or kinda passing thru it, ya know ?? Hope that this doesn't set off a round of OCD-ness, looks mighty fine, and I think you've got the Oklahoma CaseLabs build of the year cinched


----------



## Aximous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> However...I'm not real happy with the sound that the flow meter is making. It makes a fast clicking sound. It's pretty faint...and I may not be able to hear it once I get the main case on top of the pedestal....but the clicking was louder than I would have liked. If it can be heard once the case is on....I"ll need to explore other options.
> Anybody else getting the faint clicking sound?


I had it too, disassembled it, and put it together and it disappeared, it was frigging loud and annoying. It is the same 3 pin model.


----------



## mandrix

Both flow meters I have are quiet. Of course I burned one out when I wired it backwards after sleeving, and a replacement part is on it's way to fix it.








But yeah, some people report them as being noisy at first then getting better over time.

What is noisy sometime is my MCP35x pump. At first it was very quiet. After tilting it sideways to secure a temp sensor to the heat sink it got noisy for some reason, but seems to have quietened back down somewhat days later.


----------



## Truedeal

With all of this, It better have a load temp of 25C. Haha


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aximous*
> 
> I had it too, disassembled it, and put it together and it disappeared, it was frigging loud and annoying. It is the same 3 pin model.


Perhaps the threads were a little tighter before you disassembled it...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BorisTheSpider*
> 
> Mine did it and I almost returned it - it was making a horrendous noise, but then I read about other people who had the same problem, and it turns out the impeller needs to wear in.
> I left mine with flow through it constantly (in a test loop, so at 1.5gpm or more) for at least 2 or 3 days before it completely went away, but ever since it is completely silent, as in "can't hear it even with your ear pressed against it" silent. (EDIT actually I just remembered the noise even came back during the first week or so, then went away again - it has been consistently silent ever since though)
> I know aquacomputer also do an MPS flow sensor now with no moving parts, but I really don't think you'll need to change - I've read about several people having the same experience as me with them being very noisy and quieting down really well if given a bit of time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frank anderson*
> 
> I am using 2 of the same flow meters, once you have it in your rig and covers closed, the fan noise will suppress the clicking noise, it's not noticeable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aximous*
> 
> I had it too, disassembled it, and put it together and it disappeared, it was frigging loud and annoying. It is the same 3 pin model.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Perhaps the threads were a little tighter before you disassembled it...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Both flow meters I have are quiet. Of course I burned one out when I wired it backwards after sleeving, and a replacement part is on it's way to fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, some people report them as being noisy at first then getting better over time.


Man I love the assistance OCN members provide. Thanks guys. Sounds like what I'm hearing is not abnormal. I'll give it a few days and see if it fades as it has done for several others. If it doesn't, I"ll take it apart again and see what I can see. Its been disassembled once already for the powder coating and copper plated bolts. The sound is pretty faint....so if it fades any at all, I probably won't be able to hear it. I can't count on my fans drowning them out though...because my fans are pretty silent.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Three radiators ??? not in the pedestal is it ? Am I going to have to go back selectively thru this thread .... ???
> HOUSTON - we have pre-main case bolting on stage counting T minus ... seriously, that take a crane to get the case onto this pedestal ? It can't weigh that much, but still .... the pedestal, I meant.
> Don't even wanna think what the main case might weigh in at !
> *ADD*: Lawd gawd amighty !!! When I was looking at your fan stickers, the only THANG missing for me, was an orange football in the middle of the OU logo, or kinda passing thru it, ya know ?? Hope that this doesn't set off a round of OCD-ness, looks mighty fine, and I think you've got the Oklahoma CaseLabs build of the year cinched


Well....seven radiators total, but 3 of them are in the pedestal. Orange footballs, huh? Next time I tweak my stickers...I might give it some thought. But orange? Maybe copper. And yes...the countdown is getting close.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> With all of this, It better have a load temp of 25C. Haha


Maybe if I moved to the North Pole....


----------



## cpachris

Doing some pump testing and reservoir leak testing today. Used a spare PSU and running the water through the pedestal rads for now....



When I first turned on the pump....I was shocked at how loud it was. But after 10 minutes or so....I was shocked at how quiet it had become. Guess that's normal. On max speed, it is a very quiet and pleasant hum. At setting #3...its virtually silent. I'm working in the kitchen so I don't have the flow meter hooked up to the AQ5 to get an actual readout....but it sure looks like its moving a ton of water right now. I guess 3 SR-1's isn't that restrictive....

I've got a small leak on the bottom reservoir seal. I get a small bead of water that forms about a drop every 5 minutes or so, that come ups from the bottom reservoir cap. Need to take res apart again and check o-ring and seal.

The flow meter is still making the clicking noise....hasn't quieted down yet. Only been running the pump for a few hours though. I'll give it a few days.


----------



## TheHarvman313

Congrats on your engagement Chris!!!









The build is looking great! It's about time you get this thing under water!!!!


----------



## cpachris

I went ahead and moved the pedestal back into the living room beside the main case....so I could plug in the flow meter. Hadn't gotten to play with that yet. I set the calibration to 158...and I'm getting 1.5 gpm right now with one D5 pump on speed #5. Only 3 rads right now though...

Res>Pump>480>480>240>Res

When I play with the speeds on this mini-loop, I get the following:

#1 - 0.4 gpm
#2 - 0.6 gpm
#3 - 1.0 gpm
#4 - 1.3 gpm
#5 - 1.5 gpm

For the radiator part of the loop, I'll have a dual D5....instead of a single...but it will be going through 7 rads instead of 3. I think I'll be ok. I'll then have a single D5 driving the CPU/memory/vrm subloop and another single D5 driving the GPU/chipset subloop.

Flow meters is still clicking away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Congrats on your engagement Chris!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The build is looking great! It's about time you get this thing under water!!!!


Thanks Harvman!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I went ahead and moved the pedestal back into the living room beside the main case....so I could plug in the flow meter. Hadn't gotten to play with that yet. I set the calibration to 158...and I'm getting 1.5 gpm right now with one D5 pump on speed #5. Only 3 rads right now though...
> Res>Pump>480>480>240>Res
> When I play with the speeds on this mini-loop, I get the following:
> #1 - 0.4 gpm
> #2 - 0.6 gpm
> #3 - 1.0 gpm
> #4 - 1.3 gpm
> #5 - 1.5 gpm
> For the radiator part of the loop, I'll have a dual D5....instead of a single...but it will be going through 7 rads instead of 3. I think I'll be ok. I'll then have a single D5 driving the CPU/memory/vrm subloop and another single D5 driving the GPU/chipset subloop.
> Flow meters is still clicking away.
> Thanks Harvman!


I ever tell you that you're my Hero? I mean look at that watercooling goodness and you're not even done yet.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> I ever tell you that you're my Hero? I mean look at that watercooling goodness and you're not even done yet.


thanks! but...you don't need another hero. ...you don't need to know the way home. ...all you...nevermind.


----------



## Dylanren99

It's took several days and nights of reading, but I've got from post #1 to #2439.I am sooooo jealous of your build, and thought my planed build was overkill.
Anyway just a question, why did you not go with ivy bridge.
Good luck with finishing this build and I am more than defiantly subed to this wonderful build log


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dylanren99*
> 
> It's took several days and nights of reading, but I've got from post #1 to #2439.I am sooooo jealous of your build, and thought my planed build was overkill.
> Anyway just a question, why did you not go with ivy bridge.
> Good luck with finishing this build and I am more than defiantly subed to this wonderful build log


thanks Dylanren99! I feel kinda bad for people finding the build log recently...because it takes a lot of time to get caught up with it. Guess that's what happens when you take 6 months to finish.









As far "why not Ivy Bridge", when I was making my decision...it was either Ivy or Sandy-E. Sandy-E was just the bigger and badder processor. More cores, more PCI lanes, quad channel memory, more L3 cache, etc.

But the real reason to choose Sandy-E at the time, was I thought it was pretty clear that the LGA2011 socket was going to have more upgrade paths in the future. So...when Ivy-E is readily available (sometime Q3 2013 I believe is the target date)...I could choose to put one of those in my LGA2011 board. I don't think there will be any significant or appealing upgrade paths for an 1155 board.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> thanks Dylanren99! I feel kinda bad for people finding the build log recently...because it takes a lot of time to get caught up with it. Guess that's what happens when you take 6 months to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far "why not Ivy Bridge", when I was making my decision...it was either Ivy or Sandy-E. Sandy-E was just the bigger and badder processor. More cores, more PCI lanes, quad channel memory, more L3 cache, etc.
> But the real reason to choose Sandy-E at the time, was I thought it was pretty clear that the LGA2011 socket was going to have more upgrade paths in the future. So...when Ivy-E is readily available (sometime Q3 2013 I believe is the target date)...I could choose to put one of those in my LGA2011 board. I don't think there will be any significant or appealing upgrade paths for an 1155 board.


LGA1155 is outdated beginning 2013, Q1 or Q2 (don't quote me on the exact date) by Haswell with the socket LGA1150.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Doing some pump testing and reservoir leak testing today. Used a spare PSU and running the water through the pedestal rads for now....
> 
> When I first turned on the pump....I was shocked at how loud it was. But after 10 minutes or so....I was shocked at how quiet it had become. Guess that's normal. On max speed, it is a very quiet and pleasant hum. At setting #3...its virtually silent. I'm working in the kitchen so I don't have the flow meter hooked up to the AQ5 to get an actual readout....but it sure looks like its moving a ton of water right now. I guess 3 SR-1's isn't that restrictive....
> I've got a small leak on the bottom reservoir seal. I get a small bead of water that forms about a drop every 5 minutes or so, that come ups from the bottom reservoir cap. Need to take res apart again and check o-ring and seal.
> The flow meter is still making the clicking noise....hasn't quieted down yet. Only been running the pump for a few hours though. I'll give it a few days.


Chris, you know you are a hardcore rig builder when you're using an AX1200i as a "spare PSU"







Rock on brother! Rock on!







Also want to congratulate you and JennG on the engagement.







I've been married to the wifey 23 years now and I am loving it.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Also want to congratulate you and JennG on the engagement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been married to the wifey 23 years now and I am loving it.


Thanks TPE-331. I know I'll join the 23 year club....in 23 years. When you find the right person...everything just clicks together.


----------



## Aximous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I went ahead and moved the pedestal back into the living room beside the main case....so I could plug in the flow meter. Hadn't gotten to play with that yet. I set the calibration to 158...and I'm getting 1.5 gpm right now with one D5 pump on speed #5. Only 3 rads right now though...
> Res>Pump>480>480>240>Res
> When I play with the speeds on this mini-loop, I get the following:
> #1 - 0.4 gpm
> #2 - 0.6 gpm
> #3 - 1.0 gpm
> #4 - 1.3 gpm
> #5 - 1.5 gpm
> For the radiator part of the loop, I'll have a dual D5....instead of a single...but it will be going through 7 rads instead of 3. I think I'll be ok. I'll then have a single D5 driving the CPU/memory/vrm subloop and another single D5 driving the GPU/chipset subloop.
> Flow meters is still clicking away.
> Thanks Harvman!


Those flow values seem a little low for me, is your flow meter calibration value set correctly in aquaero? For 1/2" tubing it should be 158 according to martin. Or I could be just overestimating the power of a d5


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aximous*
> 
> Those flow values seem a little low for me, is your flow meter calibration value set correctly in aquaero? For 1/2" tubing it should be 158 according to martin. Or I could be just overestimating the power of a d5


Yes...I'm at 158. It's a little lower than I had been expecting also. But some of that may be how much tubing I've got for this mini-loop. I didn't want to start cutting the tubing into pieces yet....so there is 10 feet coming from the pump....and 10 feet coming from the rads back to the pump. 20 feet in total tubing. Plus...in the fittings connections between the rads, I've got 4 90-degree fittings, and the flow meter. So even though the SR1's are not real restrictive...I think the 20 feet of tubing, 4x 90-degree fittings and flow meter are slowing it down a bit.

My target flow is 1 gpm....so I think I'm going to be ok. I'll have 4 pumps total once its all hooked up.


----------



## Rbby258

love how your spare psu is one of the best / latest ones available


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> thanks! but...you don't need another hero. ...you don't need to know the way home. ...all you...nevermind.


Tina Turner Reference?


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

You continue to do a fantastic job on this build Chris. I still have to gloss over all the UO stickers while I read







but your attention to detail and almost fanaticism with this color scheme are inspiring. Even for those of us on a much (much much) smaller budget. Keep it up.









Oh, and congrats on your engagement! I'm working hard to get outta school so I can marry my pretty lady


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> You continue to do a fantastic job on this build Chris. I still have to gloss over all the UO stickers while I read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but your attention to detail and almost fanaticism with this color scheme are inspiring. Even for those of us on a much (much much) smaller budget. Keep it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and congrats on your engagement! I'm working hard to get outta school so I can marry my pretty lady


Everybody is finding there girl or guy lately...What an interesting change of pace. It's kind of refreshing to see. Good luck to all of you.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> love how your spare psu is one of the best / latest ones available












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Tina Turner Reference?


yep.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> You continue to do a fantastic job on this build Chris. I still have to gloss over all the UO stickers while I read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but your attention to detail and almost fanaticism with this color scheme are inspiring. Even for those of us on a much (much much) smaller budget. Keep it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and congrats on your engagement! I'm working hard to get outta school so I can marry my pretty lady


Thanks! And you better just get use to seeing the crimson and cream. Right combination of wins/losses next week, and we may still end up with a Big12 championship on our hands this year. And if so....you'll be seeing us play in January still.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Everybody is finding there girl or guy lately...What an interesting change of pace. It's kind of refreshing to see. Good luck to all of you.


Your turn?


----------



## R4V3N

I keep meaning to congratulate you on your engagement, though I often find myself with enough time to read - just - and no time to comment. Well, congratulations, good sir, you have achieved that which I have failed (though she's from a broken family, so I can understand). And, still, awesome build.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Tremendous progress, lots of fun, & a good place to learn from everyone. That's what this thread offers.


----------



## mandrix

The radiators aren't going to be that much impediment to flow, IMO, it's when you start adding blocks that you may see the flow rate change.
With 2 radiators, 1 cpu block, 2 gpu blocks and the AQ5 block I'm seeing max flow in the 1.2-1.3 gpm range with a single MCP35x.

I also found that Aida constantly reports the wrong temp for the second gpu diode, a steady 50c, while Afterburner shows more in line with what I think it should be (28c at idle).


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Your turn?


I wish but sadly no.


----------



## sunfish31831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Chris, you know you are a hardcore rig builder when you're using an AX1200i as a "spare PSU"


This^


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4V3N*
> 
> I keep meaning to congratulate you on your engagement, though I often find myself with enough time to read - just - and no time to comment. And, still, awesome build.


Thanks...and appreciate the kind words!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Tremendous progress, lots of fun, & a good place to learn from everyone. That's what this thread offers.


I sure have appreciated all the input provided by everyone. Agreed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> The radiators aren't going to be that much impediment to flow, IMO, it's when you start adding blocks that you may see the flow rate change.
> With 2 radiators, 1 cpu block, 2 gpu blocks and the AQ5 block I'm seeing max flow in the 1.2-1.3 gpm range with a single MCP35x.
> I also found that Aida constantly reports the wrong temp for the second gpu diode, a steady 50c, while Afterburner shows more in line with what I think it should be (28c at idle).


I would expect more "oomph" out of the MCP35x than the D5. It's a little more powerful pump. My Aida64 is showing correct temperatures for all GPU diodes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> I wish but sadly no.


You need to go make a visit over to DeRidder, LA. I remember lots of lovelies from that neck of the woods when I lived there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunfish31831*
> 
> This^


I do plan on using it in a build eventually.







I had just put so much work into my powder coated, copper plated, fan replaced, custom sticker AX850's....that I couldn't bear to start making changes before I was even done!


----------



## Wibble360

Hey Chris, just wanted to say congrats on the engagement and thanks for such an entertaining and informative thread, it's a pleasure to read and I look forward to each update!
I've been lurking here for a while mainly checking up on this thread but had to make my first post after hearing the good news!

Also, I've got to say - monster build and I'm sure the benchmarks will be through the roof but...
Quote:


> Speakers: Creative GigaWorks T40 Series II 32 watts RMS 2.0 Speakers


In a build of this caliber??!! Please reconsider - these active Genelecs would absolutely cream the Creative speakers and you could add a high quality DAC into the build to make it even better - just a suggestion!


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

I heard Corsair is going to release a AX750i and AX850i, will you upgrade to ether one when they come out?


----------



## Electrocutor

While you have everything easily accessible, you should try having the res go into the direct inlet instead of the 90-degree inlet and see if you get any difference in flow.


----------



## nateman_doo

Wow, I missed 150 pages of updates?! And I hear your getting married?! nice! Congrats!

As for the blocks I posted a picture of the block updates via twitter. I figured I would start using that to post progress of stuff.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

But, but, not everyone doo's twitter.

doo's = does for those who don't get it


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> While you have everything easily accessible, you should try having the res go into the direct inlet instead of the 90-degree inlet and see if you get any difference in flow.


It's certainly worth a try, that's how I run my dual D5's in my Switch rig. But I think that the difference will not be much, especially if a "hard" 90 is used at the inlet. Would love to be proven wrong, though.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> Hey Chris, just wanted to say congrats on the engagement and thanks for such an entertaining and informative thread, it's a pleasure to read and I look forward to each update!
> I've been lurking here for a while mainly checking up on this thread but had to make my first post after hearing the good news!
> Also, I've got to say - monster build and I'm sure the benchmarks will be through the roof but...
> In a build of this caliber??!! Please reconsider - these active Genelecs would absolutely cream the Creative speakers and you could add a high quality DAC into the build to make it even better - just a suggestion!


thanks Wibble! I'll give the speakers some consideration! I wasn't planning on anything too high dollar in the office, ...just because I have two other rooms with my nicer sound components. But...I'll take a look. Thanks again!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> I heard Corsair is going to release a AX750i and AX850i, will you upgrade to ether one when they come out?


I saw that. When I upgrade....I'll probably go 1200i though....unless something else comes out with more bells and whistles.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> While you have everything easily accessible, you should try having the res go into the direct inlet instead of the 90-degree inlet and see if you get any difference in flow.


Which inlet are you talking about? On the pump?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Wow, I missed 150 pages of updates?! And I hear your getting married?! nice! Congrats!
> As for the blocks I posted a picture of the block updates via twitter. I figured I would start using that to post progress of stuff.


Thank you sir! Hope you are back safe and sound from last mission. I'll repost any good pics here in my thread. Don't think that will get anybody in trouble. For those that didn't know...Nateman ran into some OCN admin's who didn't like him having a thread selling his blocks, unless he was going to pay the 'artisan' fee to OCN. The fee was way too high for someone who just does small batches in their spare time...so OCN terminated the thread on the custom Asrock Extreme11 blocks. Nice, huh?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> But, but, not everyone doo's twitter.
> 
> doo's = does for those who don't get it


I doo. He doo. You should doo it to.


----------



## cpachris

Current status of Nateman_doo's blocks.



You can find him on Twitter if you want to see what he be doo'ing. Sorry. Can't stop.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Current status of Nateman_doo's blocks.
> 
> You can find him on Twitter if you want to see what he be doo'ing. Sorry. Can't stop.


doo we have to keep doo'ing this?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> doo we have to keep doo'ing this?


Doo'd! Where's my car?!


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> But, but, not everyone doo's twitter.
> 
> doo's = does for those who don't get it


I really am not a twitter person. I got it a while back when EVGA did a "thing" where if u followed them you would have won something. I didnt win, and once in a blue moon i post something. But just look for my screen name here. Im deathly afraid to post any links anymore.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Which inlet are you talking about? On the pump?


On the pump top, you have two inlets. The inlet that looks to be in the middle of the opposite side of the motor is the actual inlet; the one on top (on the edge of top) is just routed to the actual inlet via a channel and 90-degree. It may or may not make much difference, but is worth a try in case you get an extra .2+ gpm from it.


----------



## Willi

just read through the 42 pages of this build. It's all kinds of epic.
LOVE the work put on it and the perfectionism on every detail. I wish I had that kind of patience.
Subb'd and rep'd, cpachris, this is one of the builds that will certainly win the MOTM once done.
Keep up the amazing work and good luck.


----------



## tdhall81

you along with some others here have inspired me to relocate my rig into a TH10... the madness ensues, i was wondering what bracket(s) you are using dual pump top.

also... some shameless self promotion... http://www.overclock.net/t/1329709/aquaero-help


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> On the pump top, you have two inlets. The inlet that looks to be in the middle of the opposite side of the motor is the actual inlet; the one on top (on the edge of top) is just routed to the actual inlet via a channel and 90-degree. It may or may not make much difference, but is worth a try in case you get an extra .2+ gpm from it.


I'll give that a shot next time up I'm setting it up. Had to put everything away for Thanksgiving company. JennG's family was today,...got all my family coming over tomorrow. Will be back at it on Saturday!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> just read through the 42 pages of this build. It's all kinds of epic.
> LOVE the work put on it and the perfectionism on every detail. I wish I had that kind of patience.
> Subb'd and rep'd, cpachris, this is one of the builds that will certainly win the MOTM once done.
> Keep up the amazing work and good luck.


Thanks for the kind words Willi! Takes awhile to get through it....that's for sure. Glad you made it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdhall81*
> 
> you along with some others here have inspired me to relocate my rig into a TH10... the madness ensues, i was wondering what bracket(s) you are using dual pump top.
> also... some shameless self promotion... http://www.overclock.net/t/1329709/aquaero-help


Glad you've made the jump...you'll love the case. And shameless self promotions are welcome. Did a few myself when first starting my log. I haven't mounted the Bitspower dual pump top setup yet...but I have ordered some of the (UN)Design brackets, and will either use those, or mount it directly to a plate using the three screws that hold the little plexi piece on.


----------



## sunfish31831

What gauge wire would you suggest for doing custom extensions for LED's?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunfish31831*
> 
> What gauge wire would you suggest for doing custom extensions for LED's?


Well, the right answer to any question regarding what size wire to use....would have to include the question, ...how many amps will the wire carry?

If you are powering up a few small LED's....you can get by with some pretty small gauge wire. But if you're powering up a string of 50+ hitlights....you'll need something thicker. In general terms...you should be safe for most lighting options with 18 awg wire.


----------



## cpachris

Package from modDIY in Hong Kong arrived.





I got 8 different sizes of heatshrink (some very large...and some very small) for testing of which size fits best. Also...some more white 3-pin fan connectors. Had to order my first batch of these from Hong Kong also. I can't find them here in the states anywhere. Am I missing them at some location? Anybody know if they can be found stateside?



Are you kidding me?!! There is black printing stamped all over the heatshrink. All the way around...not just in certain locations. Really?





I really can't believe they would sell white heatshrink in a computer enthusiast shop....that has black printing stamped all over it. This is from modDIY. Hope my experience saves someone from ordering white shrink from there. Anybody know another options for some white shrink...that is larger than 3/4 inch, but smaller than 1 inch? One inch is too large.


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Are you kidding me?!! There is black printing stamped all over the heatshrink. All the way around...not just in certain locations. Really?
> 
> I really can't believe they would sell white heatshrink in a computer enthusiast shop....that has black printing stamped all over it. This is from modDIY.


Ouch man, that's indeed pretty lame.









EDIT:

 ?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> ?


Ha! Here we would use Liquid Paper!


----------



## freitz

Try paint thinner. .. should take it right off. just... be careful and clean it off afterwards or when you light that to shrink it you will have some fun:devil:

Soap and water might do it. grip the rough end of the sponge around it and have someone pull the roll through.


----------



## Blaze0303

Yeah I would try some alcohol to clean the stamping off.


----------



## mandrix

I got my 20 & 22mm shrink from modDIY the same way. I haven't tried to remove it yet, but I did go ahead and use the 20mm -and your "hot knife" method- to prep and resleeve my USB 3.0 cables.
Tomorrow I will experiment to see what removes the printing. I can't imagine there would be much to it, but you never know. I have acetone, paint thinner, "goo remover", alcohol and all kinds of stuff around here to try.
Maybe I'll at least get a buzz.

Of the white male fan connectors, they seem pretty scarce. Even the black ones aren't carried too many places I know of, and I don't think they are even stocked, or made by any of the US companies including Molex, Mouser & Newark.

Here's a place that advertises 7/8" shrink tubing:
http://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink2.htm

_EDIT: Alcohol seems to work ok on the heat shrink._


----------



## Convex

nateman needs to finish the blocks







my extreme 11 is friggin loud with that stupid stock fan *cries*
PS: love this build...so tasty -.-


----------



## nvidiaftw12

You can't rush what the doo doos.

Think we should ever stop?


----------



## cpachris

Never.


----------



## nvidiaftw12




----------



## Mr Wolley

Subbed, this thing is GORGEOUS, I absolutely love the PSU modding, nice work man


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Never.


so ridiculously true hahah


----------



## cpachris

Time to check something else off my list. I'm working on placement of temperature sensors now, and there are some where the standard sensor cable doesn't reach far enough. The TH10 is a BIG case...and the standard cable is only 28 inches. There are some spots....if you want to run the cable behind certain items...where I just need it to be longer. So I'm testing creating some extended sensor wires. Here goes nothing....

First, I plugged in two separate temp sensors (and we are talking air sensors here...not coolant) to my Aquaero LT, and put the temp sensor end on both right beside each other in front of the case. This would be a measure of the ambient room temperature air.



Then I reviewed the temp sensor readings in Aquasuite. In the picture below, they are shown as Sensor 1 and Sensor 2...at the top of the list. The two readings were consistently within 0.2c of each other. Sensor 2 was always the higher one. I felt like 0.2c difference was very acceptable given the lack of precision in these type of sensors. I could have easily added a calibration adjustment to Sensor 2 and had both of them reading the exact same temperature...but that is not necessary for what I'm testing right now.



Next I pulled out the cable for Sensor 2. This is the one I'm going to extend.



The end with the temp sensor had some black heatshrink covering the connections to the sensor...



When I removed the heatshrink...there was one wire connection that had just a dab of solder holding it together. The other wire connection had more heatshrink covering up the solder connection.



I removed this heatshrink also, and then clipped the wires where the sensor was connected to the wires.



Voila....a temp sensor not connected to any wires.



Next I took some 26 awg wire and cut two pieces that were 40 inches in length. This is almost 50% longer than the original wire.



I stripped some insulation off one of the ends of the wire, and got some little bitty heatshrink ready.



Then I used my helping hands to hold everything while I added a touch of solder to connect the sensor to the wire. NO MAKING FUN OF MY SOLDERING!!!! I've mentioned before...its not my strongest ability.











All done. I guess that's not TOO bad. I've definitely done worse.



Then I slide the heatshrink on the wires to cover the solder connection. You can slide the tips of the sensor plastic into the shrink also.



Then crimp some pins on the other end of the wire...



...and insert pins into a 2.54mm connector.



Put the newly elongated Sensor 2 temp sensor back into place at the front of the case along with Sensor 1...



...and review readings in Aquasuite. Excellent! The temp Sensor 2 is still reading 0.2c higher than Sensor 1.



I guess that means it works fine to create your own custom length cables for temp sensors that you purchase. My next test is going to involve splitting one temp sensor into two separate 2.54 ends....so that I can use one sensor but plug it into both of my Aquaero's. Not sure if that will work...but why not try? Right? More to come!


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Time to check something else off my list.!


I spy with my little eye ... and unsleaved 24 pin power connection.









Did you try singing some Barry White to make it sleave itself? Reach your inner Barry!


----------



## mandrix

I haven't had the need to extend any sensor leads, but I have shortened several with no problems.

What I see is inconsistent reading between sensors. For example, one would think if the system has been down for an extended period of time, all the temps would reach equilibrium and thus you could make calibration adjustments accordingly. This appears to not be the case, and I have tried to get all the sensors to read somewhere in the ballpark of each other with only limited success, especially the inline water temp sensors (which are your basic sensors wrapped around a fitting and covered with a rubber retainer).

Since I'm running my pump on the Delta t of ambient/water temp, when the sensors go wonky the pump goes along for the ride. Ultimately I decided on arbitrary calibration settings that seemed appropriate for good pump control without it constantly changing up/down and concentrated more on fan control. Fortunately I have excess cooling capacity for my current system so there is no real need to worry too much about fine tuning the pump speed.

Accuracy is not so important as consistency.
----
Thanks again for your work & guide on the USB 3.0 sleeving, I have to say mine look better with the 3/8" Techflex than with the 16mm I previously had.


----------



## TPE-331

Good work on the temp sensors Chris, very nice.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Doing some pump testing and reservoir leak testing today. Used a spare PSU and running the water through the pedestal rads for now....


I was thinking of hooking up my res like that but then I checked some photos of the pump top and seems like you can only use the inlet (ie, not enough room for another fitting for the outlet). Anyway I bought a fitting piece from PPC (Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Male to Male Rotary Adapter). It seems like it'd work to hook them up instead of using the specific res kit (the one that was meant to specifically combo with this pump top):



That's the fitting I got. Is it the right part? Is that what you used?


----------



## True North

Wow - I lurked last night and spent WAAAY to much time drooling over the pics.

Looking to do a very similar build minus the color co-ordination and bling. Hoping to start in Feb of 2013. I'll post pics but it won't be anywhere near as purdy as yours. I initially came across the site while reading about Nateman-Doo's Asrock waterblock. I read about the noise issues with the MOBO and while I keep my box in a seperate room from my work area, I didn't like the idea of the noise coming from the stock fan.

It's mainly a performance thing for me as I do a lot of multi track recording and lots of video editing. I really like the ASrock Extreme 11 for the 4 x 16 Pci-e lanes. I was planning on a single GTX-690, the remaining 16 lane slots will have a high end DAW interface (RME HDSPe MADI) and DSP Powered Effects Controller (UAD-2) and a Raid Card. Still deciding on RAM but I was looking at a minimum of 32gb and possibly 64 gb of ram... I am concerned about the issues you have come across while trying to get 64gb's to work.

Looking at going with all Samsung 640 Pro Series SSD's

2 x 256gb OS Drives Raid 0

Raid 10 (1+0) 512 GB drives

I am probably going to keep stock fans on the 690 as I don't plan on OC'ing it .

I have never built a liquid cooled machine so this will be my first run at it...I'm a little tentative but what the hell. I will only be liquid cooling the CPU and the Motherboard, so it's with great interest to see which MOBO Block you choose. Given the apparent instability of high RAM loads on this board, OC'ing doesen't strike me as a good idea and therefore no liquid necessary there....but I guess I will wait and see how you do.

Still lots for me to work out but this build will help immensely

So relieved to come across your build as you are taking much of the hard research out of the way, so thanks very much for being so meticulous in documenting this build. You have already help me finalize my search for a case....which was something that I was spending too much time deciding on.

Good luck with the rest of the build and congrats on your engagement, cheers!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Wolley*
> 
> Subbed, this thing is GORGEOUS, I absolutely love the PSU modding, nice work man


Another first time poster! Love it...and welcome Mr. Wolley.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I spy with my little eye ... and unsleaved 24 pin power connection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try singing some Barry White to make it sleave itself? Reach your inner Barry!


I'm going to tackle that this weekend I think. The extension at least. The romantic music just didn't work...so I'll put some Dead and do it myself.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Thanks again for your work & guide on the USB 3.0 sleeving, I have to say mine look better with the 3/8" Techflex than with the 16mm I previously had.


Glad it helped!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Good work on the temp sensors Chris, very nice.


Thanks TPE-331!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I was thinking of hooking up my res like that but then I checked some photos of the pump top and seems like you can only use the inlet (ie, not enough room for another fitting for the outlet). Anyway I bought a fitting piece from PPC (Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Male to Male Rotary Adapter). It seems like it'd work to hook them up instead of using the specific res kit (the one that was meant to specifically combo with this pump top):
> 
> That's the fitting I got. Is it the right part? Is that what you used?


Similar part. For my male to male pieces...I got lots of little bitty ones...smaller than this one. Then I use normal extenders to make it the length I need. You could use both top ports if you used a longer extender and a 90 degree...kind of like this:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *True North*
> 
> Wow - I lurked last night and spent WAAAY to much time drooling over the pics.
> Still lots for me to work out but this build will help immensely
> So relieved to come across your build as you are taking much of the hard research out of the way, so thanks very much for being so meticulous in documenting this build. You have already help me finalize my search for a case....which was something that I was spending too much time deciding on.
> Good luck with the rest of the build and congrats on your engagement, cheers!


Another first time poster! Welcome True North. Your planned build sounds real nice. Will be looking forward to the build log.


----------



## adi518

Sexy !!! I was correct then. IIRC, I also bought some smaller male to male adapters. Thanks a lot !


----------



## tpb211

Hey Chris,
Your build is looking good! I'm thinking about mod'ing a solid caselabs IO panel to house a slot load blu ray burner and moving the power/reset/USB/Lighting switches to a 5.25 blank. Wondering if you have ever thought about this as I don't see an optical drive in your build.

Trav
tpb211


----------



## CiBi

I hope that this build log will never end... and it probably won't.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I got the extra baby fans I mentioned I needed due to losing the round clips while disassembling. I painted them last night, and I'm installing today.
> First...here is the power harness that will fire up the 4 baby fans and the back panel 120mm fan.
> 
> For the 4 baby fans, I ended up wiring them all together into one connection. I used white heatshrink to cover all exposed wires and joins, and then sleeved it up to the power connector.....
> 
> ...and here they are spinning along with the back 120mm fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I can't show you the back yet since I don't have the stickers on. I've made them....but I don't have the right size circle cutter for them. Will order one and get those put on soon.
> I love the look of the little fans. You can feel the air they are moving....but just a little bit. More for looks than performance. They don't make any real sound at all....very quiet. I think I finally have my total fan count finalized...and I've powered up 50 out of 56 fans now, ...or 89%. I have 6 more to go that are split among two power harnesses. Shouldn't be too tough to finish that this weekend.


Those baby fans look very good, I love how much time you spend on details that won't affect your temps at all!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Doing some pump testing and reservoir leak testing today. Used *a spare PSU* and running the water through the pedestal rads for now....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> When I first turned on the pump....I was shocked at how loud it was. But after 10 minutes or so....I was shocked at how quiet it had become. Guess that's normal. On max speed, it is a very quiet and pleasant hum. At setting #3...its virtually silent. I'm working in the kitchen so I don't have the flow meter hooked up to the AQ5 to get an actual readout....but it sure looks like its moving a ton of water right now. I guess 3 SR-1's isn't that restrictive....
> I've got a small leak on the bottom reservoir seal. I get a small bead of water that forms about a drop every 5 minutes or so, that come ups from the bottom reservoir cap. Need to take res apart again and check o-ring and seal.
> The flow meter is still making the clicking noise....hasn't quieted down yet. Only been running the pump for a few hours though. I'll give it a few days.


Very consistent of you to have such an overkill spare PSU.


----------



## True North

Hey Chris

I have been spending more time trying to catch up on this thread. I noticed that one of your current builds has a Raid 10 array in it. What made you decide to build this rig with a Raid 5 array?


----------



## RedScorch

To anyone wondering if you should read every post and page, do it you won't regret it! Keep up the amazing work. Now I need money for more PC stuff.


----------



## Hattifnatten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedScorch*
> 
> To anyone wondering if you should read every post and page, do it you won't regret it! Keep up the amazing work. Now I need money for more PC stuff.


I've been reading for so long that I have forgotten what's on the other pages


----------



## linkdiablo

This thread keeps growing and growing, I've tried showing some friends that aren't members of the forum and I can't ever find the pictures of the build I want.

Another thread milestone! 2500th!


----------



## modnoob

this build i have been following for a while like a ninja and i have to say that this is the sexy build that deserves more credit


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Hey Chris,
> Your build is looking good! I'm thinking about mod'ing a solid caselabs IO panel to house a slot load blu ray burner and moving the power/reset/USB/Lighting switches to a 5.25 blank. Wondering if you have ever thought about this as I don't see an optical drive in your build.


Very cool idea. It would have to be fairly thin blu-ray if you are using any drive cages or other accessories on the PSU side...but very cool idea. For now...I'm housing my blu-ray down in the pedestal. Going to make it a stealth drive...where all you see is the 5.25 blank...but press it...and out the drive pops out. Will be looking for pics of your mod.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I hope that this build log will never end... and it probably won't.


Version 1.0 can't take too much longer....but why stop there, ...right? Version 2.0 will be even better...and why not some incremental .1 upgrades in between...right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *True North*
> 
> Hey Chris
> I have been spending more time trying to catch up on this thread. I noticed that one of your current builds has a Raid 10 array in it. What made you decide to build this rig with a Raid 5 array?


Good question. It had as much to do with space as anything else. I tried to estimate how much storage space I would need in the next 3 or 4 years (would be replacing technology by then anyway), and decided that I wanted to have about 4.5 TB available. That should let me continue to grow at my current pace..and maybe a little faster...for 3 or 4 years. In the V4's that I wanted to use...512 GB was the largest size. Since Raid 10 requires double the drives....it would have taken about 18 drives to get that kind of space with Raid 10. If I used 18 drives for the storage...and 4 for scratch disks and 2 for the OS...it would have used up a whole other drive cage to house the drives. Doing it with just 10 drives with Raid 5. I've been wanting to keep one of the cage areas clear for a potential lighting project. I'll supplement the Raid 5 redundancy with online backups.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedScorch*
> 
> To anyone wondering if you should read every post and page, do it you won't regret it! Keep up the amazing work. Now I need money for more PC stuff.


Thanks RedScorch! I also think that a lot of the banter from members is fun to read. But I feel sorry for someone jumping in at this point. Its a big thread.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> I've been reading for so long that I have forgotten what's on the other pages


lol.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> This thread keeps growing and growing, I've tried showing some friends that aren't members of the forum and I can't ever find the pictures of the build I want.
> Another thread milestone! 2500th!


I need to do another update of the links in the opening post..but its fairly current, and the original idea was you could quickly find any picture update just from the links in the opening post. I'll go through tomorrow and make sure its current.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> this build i have been following for a while like a ninja and i have to say that this is the sexy build that deserves more credit


Ninja's are no fun. Hope you'll throw in some comments more often! Good to hear from you modnoob!


----------



## Tisca

Came to think of your build when I saw this kb








http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/We-keyboard-sky-we-sky/415978_685314289.html


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> Came to think of your build when I saw this kb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/We-keyboard-sky-we-sky/415978_685314289.html


Lol, perfect.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> Came to think of your build when I saw this kb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/We-keyboard-sky-we-sky/415978_685314289.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Lol, perfect.


Nice find Tisca! Good colors! Alas, ....I think this one is a little better match.









http://www.amazon.com/Oklahoma-Sooners-Wireless-USB-Keyboard/dp/B005UQRYBM


----------



## cpachris

Doing some more work on the pedestal. I need to work in a drain line, and the pedestal makes the most sense on where to put it. So...first I drilled a hole in the bottom of the pedestal floor. I'm going to use a Bitspower pass through fitting to run a line out of the bottom of the pedestal floor. You'll see in the picture below the hole looks rough. The largest drill bit I had was 5/8 inch, and the hole needed to be larger than that. So...using a drill bit....alternating with a Dremel grinder...I worked the hole until it was large enough to house the fitting. Looks rough in the raw...but the edge of the Bitspower fitting will cover it up.



Here is the Bitspower pass through fitting...from the inside of the pedestal...looking down at the floor....



And here is what I put together for the bottom outside. Its a 90 degree fitting, combined with a mini-valve, and 1/2 of a D-plug on the end.



In this picture, you can see that the whole bottom assembly can rotate out of the way so that its completely under the pedestal. When I need it, I'll simply rotate it around so it pokes out the back.



Here's a shot of it from the bottom of the case.



And to make it easier to drain, I put together this little contraption. From left to right, its some tubing...a compression fitting....a Q-block with stop fittings...and the other 1/2 of the D-plug.



You can see in the picture below the D-plug end. This end will simply push on the end of the D-plug that was on the bottom of the pedestal drain valve....



Like this. When I need to drain the loop, I'll just push this contraption on....and then open the valve. It's the lowest point of the loop, so I should be able to drain it fairly well. When I'm not draining the loop, I'll simply close the valve and pull off the contraption. Haven't tested it yet though.



On the inside of the pedestal, I put a 60 degree fitting and a compression fitting. I'll end up running tubing to this.



When I previously had tested some of plumbing in the pedestal for leaks, I was doing so with a single D5 pump. Now its time to get the dual D5 setup working, plumbed and tested. I've decided to put the pump in the pedestal. Even though I think the dual pumps with Bitspower top are beautiful....and hate for them to be hidden in the pedestal....it will help with the tubing run I have working in my head. Also, it will keep the inside of the main case VERY clutter free...which I like. I'm going to use 2x of these brackets from (UN) Designs...



...with 2x of these brackets...also from (UN) Designs.



The brackets will go together like this....



The pump will sit on top kind of like this....and the hole contraption will sit on top of the fans on the floor of the pedestal.



Before I could install the pump in the pedestal, I needed to go ahead and sleeve it. First I needed to make all the wires the correct length. This involved shortening the two main power lines, and lengthening the rpm line. Had to get out my solder iron. I terminated all 3 wires in a female fan header that will poke out of the pedestal top...much like the other fan power harnesses I showed previously. From there... a male fan connector will pick it up and run all the way to one of the PA2's.



Here it is sitting on the fans on the pedestal floor. This turned out to be an absolutely ideal mounting place for the dual pump. The Noiseblocker fans that they are sitting on have those rubber corners. No plastic is touching the floor of the pedestal at all. Only the rubber corners. And the pump brackets are attached on top of the rubber feet also. There is not a whole lot of vibration to absorb in the first place...but it takes what is there and eliminates it. The pump is almost silent on highest setting...and dead silent on setting 3. Very happy.



I hooked up a little mini-loop for the pedestal to do more leak testing. Since I had added the drain valve and fittings...and have the dual pumps in their final location...I wanted to test again. Once the main case is attached to the pedestal...it will be a pain to remove it. I want to make sure I have little chance of any leaks down in the ped...before I start a full leak test with all the plumbing in the main case. This went Res>Pumps>480>FlowMeter>480>280>Res. I'll take more pictures soon...but you might be able to pick up the Y-connector in the picture below. Right after the pumps...a Y-connector splits the loop. One side of the Y runs to the drain valve assembly...and the other continues to the first 480. I think the Y-connectors are beautiful.



Success! No leaks on first run! It's not a very restrictive loop at this point...but I went ahead and checked flow also. At full speed, I was getting 2.5 gpm. I also played with controlling the pump speed via the PowerAdjust2. The lowest voltage that it would actually run at was 7 volts. Below that....the pump would stop..and then the Aquaero would kick it up to full speed and then try and dial it back down to the lower voltage...and then do it all over again. At 7 volts...the flow was about 1.6 gpm. And dead quiet. I know it will go down some when I get everything else attached. But then again...I have two more pumps to add also. I think I'll be able to operate the pumps at a fairly low speed and still get good flow.

Geez...that last paragraph sounds like a Flowmax commercial.

While the pumps were hooked up to the PA2, I did notice that the PA2 temperature was MUCH higher than it had ever gotten with my fans. Makes sense....more amps. The scenario that should produce the hottest temps for the PA2 are when I undervolt the pumps to 7 volts, and then also undervolt the fans that are directly above the PA2 so that they spin slowly. Under this scenario...the PA2 temps reached about 75c. That is still acceptable. Well below any thermal throttling point. When I increased the speed of the fans that are right above the PA2's...the PA2 temps came down to about 65c. When I sped the pumps back up to full speed...the PA2 temps dropped even further...going down to about 55c. This pleases me. I've always been a little worried about PA2 temps and Aquaero temps...just because of some of the threads I've read in different forums. Looks like I will be fine in this area.

More to come!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Doing some more work on the pedestal. I need to work in a drain line, and the pedestal makes the most sense on where to put it. So...first I drilled a hole in the bottom of the pedestal floor. I'm going to use a Bitspower pass through fitting to run a line out of the bottom of the pedestal floor. You'll see in the picture below the hole looks rough. The largest drill bit I had was 5/8 inch, and the hole needed to be larger than that. So...using a drill bit....alternating with a Dremel grinder...I worked the hole until it was large enough to house the fitting. Looks rough in the raw...but the edge of the Bitspower fitting will cover it up.
> 
> Here is the Bitspower pass through fitting...from the inside of the pedestal...looking down at the floor....
> 
> And here is what I put together for the bottom outside. Its a 90 degree fitting, combined with a mini-valve, and 1/2 of a D-plug on the end.
> 
> In this picture, you can see that the whole bottom assembly can rotate out of the way so that its completely under the pedestal. When I need it, I'll simply rotate it around so it pokes out the back.
> 
> Here's a shot of it from the bottom of the case.
> 
> And to make it easier to drain, I put together this little contraption. From left to right, its some tubing...a compression fitting....a Q-block with stop fittings...and the other 1/2 of the D-plug.
> 
> You can see in the picture below the D-plug end. This end will simply push on the end of the D-plug that was on the bottom of the pedestal drain valve....
> 
> Like this. When I need to drain the loop, I'll just push this contraption on....and then open the valve. It's the lowest point of the loop, so I should be able to drain it fairly well. When I'm not draining the loop, I'll simply close the valve and pull off the contraption. Haven't tested it yet though.
> 
> On the inside of the pedestal, I put a 60 degree fitting and a compression fitting. I'll end up running tubing to this.
> 
> When I previously had tested some of plumbing in the pedestal for leaks, I was doing so with a single D5 pump. Now its time to get the dual D5 setup working, plumbed and tested. I've decided to put the pump in the pedestal. Even though I think the dual pumps with Bitspower top are beautiful....and hate for them to be hidden in the pedestal....it will help with the tubing run I have working in my head. Also, it will keep the inside of the main case VERY clutter free...which I like. I'm going to use 2x of these brackets from (UN) Designs...
> 
> ...with 2x of these brackets...also from (UN) Designs.
> 
> The brackets will go together like this....
> 
> The pump will sit on top kind of like this....and the hole contraption will sit on top of the fans on the floor of the pedestal.
> 
> Before I could install the pump in the pedestal, I needed to go ahead and sleeve it. First I needed to make all the wires the correct length. This involved shortening the two main power lines, and lengthening the rpm line. Had to get out my solder iron. I terminated all 3 wires in a female fan header that will poke out of the pedestal top...much like the other fan power harnesses I showed previously. From there... a male fan connector will pick it up and run all the way to one of the PA2's.
> 
> Here it is sitting on the fans on the pedestal floor. This turned out to be an absolutely ideal mounting place for the dual pump. The Noiseblocker fans that they are sitting on have those rubber corners. No plastic is touching the floor of the pedestal at all. Only the rubber corners. And the pump brackets are attached on top of the rubber feet also. There is not a whole lot of vibration to absorb in the first place...but it takes what is there and eliminates it. The pump is almost silent on highest setting...and dead silent on setting 3. Very happy.
> 
> I hooked up a little mini-loop for the pedestal to do more leak testing. Since I had added the drain valve and fittings...and have the dual pumps in their final location...I wanted to test again. Once the main case is attached to the pedestal...it will be a pain to remove it. I want to make sure I have little chance of any leaks down in the ped...before I start a full leak test with all the plumbing in the main case. This went Res>Pumps>480>FlowMeter>480>280>Res. I'll take more pictures soon...but you might be able to pick up the Y-connector in the picture below. Right after the pumps...a Y-connector splits the loop. One side of the Y runs to the drain valve assembly...and the other continues to the first 480. I think the Y-connectors are beautiful.
> 
> Success! No leaks on first run! It's not a very restrictive loop at this point...but I went ahead and checked flow also. At full speed, I was getting 2.5 gpm. I also played with controlling the pump speed via the PowerAdjust2. The lowest voltage that it would actually run at was 7 volts. Below that....the pump would stop..and then the Aquaero would kick it up to full speed and then try and dial it back down to the lower voltage...and then do it all over again. At 7 volts...the flow was about 1.6 gpm. And dead quiet. I know it will go down some when I get everything else attached. But then again...I have two more pumps to add also. I think I'll be able to operate the pumps at a fairly low speed and still get good flow.
> Geez...that last paragraph sounds like a Flowmax commercial.
> While the pumps were hooked up to the PA2, I did notice that the PA2 temperature was MUCH higher than it had ever gotten with my fans. Makes sense....more amps. The scenario that should produce the hottest temps for the PA2 are when I undervolt the pumps to 7 volts, and then also undervolt the fans that are directly above the PA2 so that they spin slowly. Under this scenario...the PA2 temps reached about 75c. That is still acceptable. Well below any thermal throttling point. When I increased the speed of the fans that are right above the PA2's...the PA2 temps came down to about 65c. When I sped the pumps back up to full speed...the PA2 temps dropped even further...going down to about 55c. This pleases me. I've always been a little worried about PA2 temps and Aquaero temps...just because of some of the threads I've read in different forums. Looks like I will be fine in this area.
> More to come!


Dear cpachris,

Please stop building awesome stuff.

Thanks,
freitz's wallet

Nice job man. I like the drain setup good idea might do something similar when I add a pedestal


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Under this scenario...the PA2 temps reached about 75c. That is still *acceptable*. Well below any thermal throttling point. When I increased the speed of the fans that are right above the PA2's...the PA2 temps came down to about 65c. When I sped the pumps back up to full speed...the PA2 temps dropped even further...going down to about 55c. This pleases me. I've always been a little worried about PA2 temps and Aquaero temps...just because of some of the threads I've read in different forums. Looks like I will be *fine* in this area.


"Acceptable"? "Fine"? Since when has this build been about compromise?
Simple answer, water cool your Aqueros and PA2's...


















Looking great Chris, really starting to come together now. That pedestal is a work of art by itself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> More to come!


Can't wait!


----------



## TheHarvman313

Can you do a noise test video on the pedestal setup? I'm curious as to just how noisy all those fans and the 2 pumps are. I really like those fans and just planning for future builds.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I need to do another update of the links in the opening post..but its fairly current, and the original idea was you could quickly find any picture update just from the links in the opening post. I'll go through tomorrow and make sure its current.


I guess it's more on my side than your's I don't always remember what update is associated with what set of pictures. In some specific searches I have an easier time browsing your profile pictures; your build is close to all there is to look at so it makes a very concise browsing.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Dear cpachris,
> Please stop building awesome stuff.
> Thanks,
> freitz's wallet
> Nice job man. I like the drain setup good idea might do something similar when I add a pedestal


Ha! Tell your wallet I'm almost done.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> "Acceptable"? "Fine"? Since when has this build been about compromise?
> Simple answer, water cool your Aqueros and PA2's...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking great Chris, really starting to come together now. That pedestal is a work of art by itself.
> Can't wait!


Well...the AQ5 itself IS being watercooled...although it really doesn't need it. None of the fan channels get above 45c...even with 8 fans attached. Now...for the PA2...have you seen anybody try to fit some sort of block on one? I haven't seen this. I've kind of played around with whether or not the big heatsink could be removed...and I don't think it could without tearing up the thing. If it can't be removed...the only option for a block would be....on top of it? I'll keep it on my "crazy things to think about list". Or better yet...maybe I can challenge Nateman_doo to invent something cool. Seems like that could be a good seller. Also, would be so small that it wouldn't cost much in materials. .

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHarvman313*
> 
> Can you do a noise test video on the pedestal setup? I'm curious as to just how noisy all those fans and the 2 pumps are. I really like those fans and just planning for future builds.


I will. I don't have any actual sound testing equipment...but I could probably do some little video where I turn on/off certain things so you can get a feel for how much sound they are producing. I'll give you a hint though...the loudest thing in the pedestal is the pleasant gurgling of water when the water is returned to the reservoir.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I guess it's more on my side than your's I don't always remember what update is associated with what set of pictures. In some specific searches I have an easier time browsing your profile pictures; your build is close to all there is to look at so it makes a very concise browsing.


Gotcha. I might try and make the titles to the links more descriptive. Glad you like to browse the pictures!


----------



## cpachris

Next up is the 24pin extension. Playing around with some ideas. So far, all of my wiring has been crimson and white. But the 24pin is large enough to consider throwing another color in. I don't want more than 3 though...because I think it starts looking too busy then. I think it clearly needs some crimson in it, and probably some white also. If I expand to 3 colors, I'm considering two alternatives. First is Vanilla Sands. I think it goes well with the crimson and white. Second is Shade 19. I think this color would tie in the motherboard well. Remember you can click the pictures to get a large high definition copy....










Let me know which one you like best by quoting only that picture in your reply. Also, if you have an suggestion you think would look good, or an idea you would like to see, let me know and I'll do a picture of it. Use a format like CCWWCCCCWWCC, or something similar. C=Crimson, W=White, S = Shade 19, and V = Vanilla Sands. I also have most other MDPC-X colors if you think a different one might look good. But I don't want to use black.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I think the second to last one is the best. So that would be CCWCSWWSCWCC I think?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## True North

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Good question. It had as much to do with space as anything else. I tried to estimate how much storage space I would need in the next 3 or 4 years (would be replacing technology by then anyway), and decided that I wanted to have about 4.5 TB available. That should let me continue to grow at my current pace..and maybe a little faster...for 3 or 4 years. In the V4's that I wanted to use...512 GB was the largest size. Since Raid 10 requires double the drives....it would have taken about 18 drives to get that kind of space with Raid 10. If I used 18 drives for the storage...and 4 for scratch disks and 2 for the OS...it would have used up a whole other drive cage to house the drives. Doing it with just 10 drives with Raid 5. I've been wanting to keep one of the cage areas clear for a potential lighting project. I'll supplement the Raid 5 redundancy with online backups.


Gotcha, thanks for the explanation. Are you starting with blank drives (i.e. leaving old files on an older rig). I just don't know how practical it is to use online storage once you get into TB sized uploads. Some of my videos add up to 16 gb's a pop between raw and finalized edit files. On a busy weekend, I could have as much as close to 100 GB. That is a lot of uploading. Once you are in terabyte upload/storage range you are looking at $200-$300/month in online storage fees, which can quickly add up to the cost of those extra drives you mentioned. Not to mention, many residential service providers might have upload limits which when exceeded will bump up your costs even more.

From this build, it obvious you are very meticulous, so I am sure you have considered the costs. I am digging a little deeper on this because I respect your thought process and if you have a back up solution that makes sense for you chances are I can adapt to it as well, I would love to hear your rationale on this. For me I am thinking my solution might have to be a mix between SSD work drives(10 x 512 gb in a Raid 10 array = 2.5 tb) and a hard drive, Raid 10 Array using 4 x 3tb hard drives for storage (6tb of storage).....yikes this stuff adds up pretty quick.

BTW, it should give us all some idea of how epic this build is that you could actually run into a scenario where you might have space constraints with that case









P.S. - I'm new here so if it's bad etiquette to mention my own build, then please let me know, cheers!


----------



## meeps

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






I like option 3 the best.


----------



## True North

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> This


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Now...for the PA2...have you seen anybody try to fit some sort of block on one? I haven't seen this.


No I haven't. I was joking but it got me thinking, why not?

Some kind of modular system for water cooling them would be amazing, although it might interfere with the connectors unless you put them so that the heat sinks were in line (90° to how you have them racked up). That way you could mount a row of them together in a similar way to how you have them.

Something like this is what I am thinking of:


Spoiler: Pic







With a slim connector in between them. It might be a bit restrictive though, the flow channels would have to be quite small.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've kind of played around with whether or not the big heatsink could be removed...and I don't think it could without tearing up the thing.


From the pictures it looks like it is bolted onto the FET and prehaps glued to the PCB? If not for the glue it should be easy to remove, but then I only have pictures - you have them there to play with.

Given that it is Aqua we are talking about they might be willing to manufacture ones without heatsinks, or with easily removable heat sinks... You never know until you ask.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> If it can't be removed...the only option for a block would be....on top of it? I'll keep it on my "crazy things to think about list". Or better yet...maybe I can challenge Nateman_doo to invent something cool. Seems like that could be a good seller. Also, would be so small that it wouldn't cost much in materials.


Yep, certainly a crazy thing to think about.


----------



## mandrix

Totally like your drain setup, as that is basically what I was considering changing mine out to.
Waiting on the new SM8 pedestal design to see what I will do, though.


----------



## Citra

Last pic imo.


----------



## JennG

# 1, OF COURSE I AM PARTIAL TO ORANGE AND BLACK.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JennG*
> 
> # 1, OF COURSE I AM PARTIAL TO ORANGE AND BLACK.


Jenn is back!

Congrats on your engagement!

You are going to have to change your sig now


----------



## TheHarvman313

I agree with JennG. The straight CCWWCCCCWWCC looks best to me. I do like the shade 19 but it quickly gets a little too busy. Stay true to the school colors. Sorry you guys didn't make the Fiesta Bowl.


----------



## InsideJob

Hey Chris, been stopping in here and there to see how things are coming along. Noticed today it must have been a while as I had a few hundred unread posts on the thread









After a solid day of catching up I have found myself finally posting to say. You are the man for leaving yourself absolutely no restraint on this build, spending amounts of money I can't imagine even having to provide us with the experience of watching your build over the interwebs. For that I (and I'm sure the rest of the community) thank you greatly









Your attention to detail is absolutely incredible. I cannot wait to see the finished product. The rest of the updates leading to it will do for now


----------



## Mainsil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


My vote.


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

How come you don't add Several 1tb or 2tb WD Blacks so that was you use less drive's for same amount of storage? As you are only using the drives to store data it will give you fast transfers but allow larger storage. Another thing you can do instead of using online back up services... Is create a NAS, a good easy program is nas4free. You can even make it so the files are available for you when you are out of the house and all computers could back up to it in the house.

(edit)

My vote is cswwsccswwsc


----------



## JaRi

#3 CSWWSCCSWWSC


----------



## Truedeal

In my opinion, this option is most coherent with the scheme of the build.


----------



## tdhall81

just to throw another wrench in, what about including some copper-brown sleeving on the 24 pin, it could bring together some of the other copper you have in your build

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-copper-brown.htm


----------



## Electrocutor

How about trying a few patterns that are not symetrical, such as having a larger chunk of white or red toward the left or right. Something like RRRRWRWWWWRR or whatever.


----------



## cpachris

Thanks to everyone expressing an opinion so far on the 24pin color and combination! Will have some finalists later today.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdhall81*
> 
> just to throw another wrench in, what about including some copper-brown sleeving on the 24 pin, it could bring together some of the other copper you have in your build
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-copper-brown.htm


tdhall81...I think the Copper Brown...is a lot more "brown"...than "copper". Below are some ideas with copper brown. The brown reminds me of a football....which would fit the theme. But I'm just not sure it goes well with the crimson sleeve. What do you think?




Any other ideas?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> How about trying a few patterns that are not symetrical, such as having a larger chunk of white or red toward the left or right. Something like RRRRWRWWWWRR or whatever.


Here is your idea and one variation of it. Thoughts?


----------



## linkdiablo

Can't help you much with that one, 24 pins sleeving patterns always eluded me, but I could say I like symmetric patterns. It might sound crazy, but would it be possible to do exposed laquered copper wiring somewhere in there?


----------



## Whatts

My vote also goes to # 3 CSWWSCCSWWSC
The "copper" doesn't look like copper.


----------



## Pidoma

I like #1 the best out of all of those. It is the best with your colors so far.

How would CCWWCWWCWWCC look?

I think you have a lot of Crimson in your case already with all of your fans and such. I think having some more white could make it POP-out a little bit more instead of blend in with the rest.

This also keeps things symmetrical and I like symmetrical


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> It might sound crazy, but would it be possible to do exposed laquered copper wiring somewhere in there?


I'll keep that on the "crazy things to play with" list.







Going to sleeve for first iteration.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> I like #1 the best out of all of those. It is the best with your colors so far.
> How would CCWWCWWCWWCC look? I think you have a lot of Crimson in your case already with all of your fans and such. I think having some more white could make it POP-out a little bit more instead of blend in with the rest. This also keeps things symmetrical and I like symmetrical


Like this:



Like it?

Here's another variatoin off of Electrocutor's idea...playing with it.


----------



## tdhall81

you could use some copper braid from a small guage coaxial cable, as long as its on a ground it wouldnt matter if it contacted anything. you could even put it on over some sleeving


----------



## PCModderMike

It's been awhile since I've posted in here....starting to drop way down on my feed, need a good bump.
And for what it's worth, I like this.


----------



## Nutman

Ok, first time poster in this thread.

I just had to subscribe. I don't think I need to explain why.

Now, let's get down to business:

For the 24-pin cable, I prefer the RRWRWBBWRWRR. It's symmetrical and reminds me of racing stripes. Both things spell AWESOME in my book.

Concerning the black print on the MODDIY heat shrink (shame on you, MODDIY!!!): Is it possible to flip the heat shrink inside out? Like a sock...


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:
Originally Posted by *cpachris* 



> Like this:
> 
> Like it?


I love it!

Now I must place an order for some sleeves!!!


----------



## mandrix

Another vote for CCWWCWWCWWCC.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll keep that on the "crazy things to play with" list.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to sleeve for first iteration.
> Like this:


^^^This^^^ Lot cleaner looking too...


----------



## ballnuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Another vote for CCWWCWWCWWCC.


This.

Without a doubt in my opinion. Also, thanks for the idea of comparing colors like that. Going to try it on my build since the coloring scheme is the most mind boggling thing in the world for me. I have made 5 separate orders now from MDPC...


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> I love it!
> 
> Now I must place an order for some sleeves!!!


Like it as well.


----------



## TPE-331

Hi Chris, I love the brown mixed in with crimson and white, it adds that "pigskin" look.







All this build needs now is a Barry Switzer and Brian Bosworth airbrush on the sides of the case.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I like #1 the best out of all of those. It is the best with your colours so far.
> 
> How would CCWWCWWCWWCC look?
> 
> 
> 
> I think you have a lot of Crimson in your case already with all of your fans and such. I think having some more white could make it POP-out a little bit more instead of blend in with the rest.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This also keeps things symmetrical and I like symmetrical


Agreed! I think a lot of white with a crimson accent would look really good in combination with the rest of your build. Also, you have put so much effort in keeping everything white and crimson that I wouldn't add a third colour. A 2-color design can look very 'powerful' if you do it right and you have been doing it right.

Anyway, if you want to add a third colour, go with the Shade 19. I think the Vanilla Sands looks to similar too the white and that could give the build a sloppy look.

That's just my opinion, it all depends on your personal taste, I can't tell you what you will think is beautiful







.

How about something like:

WWWWWWWWCCWW

WWWWWWWCCCWW

WWWWWWWCCWWW

WWWWWWCCCWWW

WWWWWWCWCCWW


----------



## Quest99

This one I love! Keep it simple, keep it clean....as always.









Congrats Jenn!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Agreed! I think a lot of white with a crimson accent would look really good in combination with the rest of your build. Also, you have put so much effort in keeping everything white and crimson that I wouldn't add a third colour. A 2-color design can look very 'powerful' if you do it right and you have been doing it right.
> 
> How about something like:
> WWWWWWWWCCWW
> WWWWWWWCCCWW
> WWWWWWWCCWWW
> WWWWWWCCCWWW
> WWWWWWCWCCWW


Here they are:







I really like the last two CiBi. Especially the last one. For some reason it reminds me the stripe on their football pants.

And Pidoma has really gotten a lot of positive feedback on this one he suggested:



At this point I think I'm leaning towards using only crimson and white. I'm still considering the Shade 19...but I've eliminated the Vanilla Sands and Copper Brown. I'll post my favorite finalists later today.

I appreciate all the input! Hearing everyone say why they like their favorites helps me shape my thoughts.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here they are:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the last two CiBi. Especially the last one. For some reason it reminds me the stripe on their football pants.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And Pidoma has really gotten a lot of positive feedback on this one he suggested:
> 
> At this point I think I'm leaning towards using only crimson and white. I'm still considering the Shade 19...but I've eliminated the Vanilla Sands and Copper Brown. I'll post my favorite finalists later today.
> I appreciate all the input! Hearing everyone say why they like their favorites helps me shape my thoughts.


Yes that last one looks really good IMO! I'm glad you wont be using the Vanilla Sands


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here they are:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the last two CiBi. Especially the last one. For some reason it reminds me the stripe on their football pants.
> And Pidoma has really gotten a lot of positive feedback on this one he suggested:
> 
> At this point I think I'm leaning towards using only crimson and white. I'm still considering the Shade 19...but I've eliminated the Vanilla Sands and Copper Brown. I'll post my favorite finalists later today.
> I appreciate all the input! Hearing everyone say why they like their favorites helps me shape my thoughts.






I think you need to use less white and red and add a third color that would be used more then the others. Unless you want everything really matchy matchy...

Do you want it to stand out or blend in the background where your work can be forgotten about?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I think you need to use less white and red and add a third color that would be used more then the others. Unless you want everything really matchy matchy...
> Do you want it to stand out or blend in the background where your work can be forgotten about?


The crimson color definitely stands out. Since the interior of the case is white...the crimson pops.

As to what I want....I think clean is the best descriptive term. I'm not after anything flashy. But yes..it should match the color scheme.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I think you need to use less white and red and add a third color that would be used more then the others. Unless you want everything really matchy matchy...
> Do you want it to stand out or blend in the background where your work can be forgotten about?


Have you seen this build log? How can his work ever be forgotten?









Anyway I would make it stand out by using an asymmetrical pattern rather then by using another third colour. I don't think the point is to make this cable the focal point of the entire build...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Anyway I would make it stand out by using an asymmetrical pattern rather then by using another third colour.


We think a lot alike. I believe I'm a bigger fan of asymmetrical patterns. Although both can look good.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

I really like the CWWCWWCWWCC, and the ones suggested by CiBi just have too much white for me, but remember, it's your build, make it to where you like it, not us.


----------



## cpachris

I've narrowed it down to four finalists. It's just two different designs...but colors are flipped on each one of them. #1 and #2 are an asymetrical design that reminds me of the stripe going down the side of football pants. #3 and #4 are an asymetrical design for the OCD inclined. Decided to stick with just 2 colors, crimson and white, and not throw a different color in at this point. Here they are:

#1



#2


#3


#4


Here are the same 4...but in the case:

#1



#2



#3



#4



Before I took the case shots...I thought I was leaning towards #2. But after I took these case shots....I'm thinking I like the ones with the red on the outside edges of of the connector. It frames the cable a little better. Because I don't really have an option on the two white USB 3.0 cables that are right beside them, and the white background of the case...I think the 24pin looks better with some red on the edges. So I'm leaning towards # 1 or #3. But like I mentioned previously...I'm kind of an asymetrical guy. Still contemplating.....

Thanks for all the input!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> I really like the CWWCWWCWWCC, and the ones suggested by CiBi just have too much white for me, but remember, it's your build, make it to where you like it, not us.


Who is the cutie in your avatar that keeps changing? I think I've seen about 4 different versions of your avatar with this girl.


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've narrowed it down to four finalists. It's just two different designs...but colors are flipped on each one of them. #1 and #2 are an asymetrical design that reminds me of the stripe going down the side of football pants. #3 and #4 are an asymetrical design for the OCD inclined. Decided to stick with just 2 colors, crimson and white, and not throw a different color in at this point. Here they are:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *Snip*
> 
> 
> 
> #1
> 
> #2
> 
> #3
> 
> #4
> 
> Here are the same 4...but in the case:
> #1
> 
> #2
> 
> #3
> 
> #4
> 
> 
> 
> Before I took the case shots...I thought I was leaning towards #2. But after I took these case shots....I'm thinking I like the ones with the red on the outside edges of of the connector. It frames the cable a little better. Because I don't really have an option on the two white USB 3.0 cables that are right beside them, and the white background of the case...I think the 24pin looks better with some red on the edges. So I'm leaning towards # 1 or #3. But like I mentioned previously...I'm kind of an asymetrical guy. Still contemplating.....
> Thanks for all the input!


#3 gets my vote! It looks outstanding with the other sleeving around it. I personally like the look of having the same outside colors on multi pin cables that are close to one another, to keep uniformity.







Plus, if you go from 24 pin, to sata, to 6 pin GPU cables, it goes crimson, white, crimson white...over and over...looks lovely that way.


----------



## meeps

I'm partial to #3, for the exact reasons you listed. There's already a lot of white surrounding the cables and the USB header is also white. Plus the RAM somewhat gets highlighted by having the cable prominently crimson.

Also I feel like the clump of white in #1 is off-putting because all your other sleeved clusters have 1 white cable at most.

#3 for me


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Who is the cutie in your avatar that keeps changing? I think I've seen about 4 different versions of your avatar with this girl.


That would be Hayley Williams.  Also, #1 or #3 gets my vote.


----------



## Addiction

By the way Chris, are you keeping the 690's air cooled? If so, you should think about free hand painting the green GeForce GTX logos to Crimson or White. I think it would look outstanding!


----------



## meeps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> #1


Maybe do one with the white cluster only being 3 cables instead of 4, and bump the CW combo up?

So: CCWWWCWCCCCC

or even CCWWCWCCCCCC

(both of these may have been mocked up, but there have been so many variants already so I can't remember)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meeps*
> 
> Plus the RAM somewhat gets highlighted by having the cable prominently crimson.


Those red fins will be gone soon....replaced with two of these:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> By the way Chris, are you keeping the 690's air cooled?


Absolutely not.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> That would be Hayley Williams.


Had to Google her. But here is my favorite pic:


----------



## JennG

#3 please. and Yes, Hayley is CUTE!


----------



## Pidoma

#3 gets my vote too!!! Looks real good and clean.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> #3 gets my vote too!!!


I would think so. Was your suggestion originally.


----------



## PCModderMike

#3 sir


----------



## modnoob

#3 for me


----------



## MilesIsted

Just read (Most of) this thread, that is an awesome build 
Subbed and liking #3.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MilesIsted*
> 
> Just read (Most of) this thread, that is an awesome build
> Subbed and liking #3.


Another first time poster! Welcome MilesIsted!


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

I pick number 2... Have you thought about making a SAN/NAS for your network?


----------



## Wibble360

I was originally leaning towards #2 and #4 but like you said, the red framing the edges of the connector looks a lot better once it's in the case against the white background. So it's #3 for me, looks a bit neater than #1.

Nice gfx / RAM blocks!

I was wondering (sorry to go off-topic a bit) - what was the reasoning behind getting the Aquacomputer rads too and not just the black ices - purely aesthetics? Likewise the choice of Black Silent case fans and not the M12-S2s all-round?

Also, you've got a lot of Aquacomputer gear in this build, why not go for the Aquastream XT pump? I'm planning on putting that in my build (work-in-progress) as it seems to have a lot of functions (eg flow-sensing) integrated into the pump, wondering if perhaps I should go for a D5 instead now...

Sorry if you've already answered this Chris, I checked old pages in the log but this thread is so big!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> Have you thought about making a SAN/NAS for your network?


Not really. SAN's are typically more expensive than the storage infrastructure I'm using here. And my only experience with NAS products has not been good. They have always been dirt slow when compared to direct attached storage when I've tried both. As long as my storage needs will fit neatly in one box (yes...its a big box), then I don't see the need or benefit of moving away from direct attached storage. Your thoughts?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> I was wondering (sorry to go off-topic a bit) - what was the reasoning behind getting the Aquacomputer rads too and not just the black ices - purely aesthetics? Likewise the choice of Black Silent case fans and not the M12-S2s all-round?
> 
> Also, you've got a lot of Aquacomputer gear in this build, why not go for the Aquastream XT pump? I'm planning on putting that in my build (work-in-progress) as it seems to have a lot of functions (eg flow-sensing) integrated into the pump, wondering if perhaps I should go for a D5 instead now...
> Sorry if you've already answered this Chris, I checked old pages in the log but this thread is so big!


I reallylike the look of copper...and liked how the Aquacomputer AMS's looked. Plus..I had room for them....so...why not? Purely aesthetics. For the fans...I used M12-S2's everywhere there is a 120mm fan. The only non M12-S2's are the 140mm fans on the 280 rad....and the 40mm baby fans in the case. The multi-frame's were not available in these sizes. I didn't go with the Aquastream XT...just because I'm not a fan of how it looks. The D5 is not that pretty either...but there are some nice dress-up kits available to make them look sharp. I also had heard the D5's before...and knew they were very quiet. Had never heard an XT in person.

And you have my sympathy on trying to find previously answered questions. It has gotten pretty big.


----------



## Citra

#3 hands down.


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

At my school we are using nas4free to host all the class file's (about 60gb of ISO's). It works great we have 30 students hitting it for various files though out the day, with higher speeds then when we used Windows Server file share. I know it wont be as fast, for editing files that are stored on the NAS, but for a storage device that holds the file's for viewing and streaming it be perfect. Another benefit of setting a NAS your fiancée, and kids computers can store files there as well as having there computers back up to the NAS. You can create user accounts and limit and control access that way. Installing multiple NIC's and binding them together will help with speeds when several people accesses the NAS at the same time. If you have any more questions please ask as I have some how to guides setting up nas4free.


----------



## Wibble360

Quote:


> I reallylike the look of copper...and liked how the Aquacomputer AMS's looked. Plus..I had room for them....so...why not? Purely aesthetics. For the fans...I used M12-S2's everywhere there is a 120mm fan. The only non M12-S2's are the 140mm fans on the 280 rad....and the 40mm baby fans in the case. The multi-frame's were not available in these sizes. I didn't go with the Aquastream XT...just because I'm not a fan of how it looks. The D5 is not that pretty either...but there are some nice dress-up kits available to make them look sharp. I also had heard the D5's before...and knew they were very quiet. Had never heard an XT in person.


Ah cool thanks - yeah some of the dress-up kits looks pretty sharp, especially with dual pumps

tbh those baby fans look so cute I'm considering drilling some 40mm holes into my case just so I can fit them and show people how cute they are...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> At my school we are using nas4free to host all the class file's (about 60gb of ISO's). It works great we have 30 students hitting it for various files though out the day, with higher speeds then when we used Windows Server file share. I know it wont be as fast, for editing files that are stored on the NAS, but for a storage device that holds the file's for viewing and streaming it be perfect. Another benefit of setting a NAS your fiancée, and kids computers can store files there as well as having there computers back up to the NAS. You can create user accounts and limit and control access that way. Installing multiple NIC's and binding them together will help with speeds when several people accesses the NAS at the same time. If you have any more questions please ask as I have some how to guides setting up nas4free.


I'm glad its working well for you! And in an environment with lots of users...one would have to consider it. But for what I do with my machine...there are almost no benefits. Read/writes on a NAS would be at a fraction of the speed of my PCI-e 3.0 raid card with direct attached storage. This build isn't about easy storage for my kids or others. It's about silent performance for me. I'm being selfish that way.


----------



## linkdiablo

#3 has my vote.


----------



## Khepira

#3 here!


----------



## Whatts

Another #3 vote here, the ones with white edges are drowned out by the white insides of the case, and the asymmetrical #1 sets off my OCD too much.


----------



## barkinos98

ERMAHGERD BEAUTIFUL SLEEVING!!!!!! #3 bro! also, i would get the dominator platinums instead of the normal dominator+block, would fit the build a bit better i think.


----------



## mandrix

#3.
Noticing your USB 3.0 side by side. I like that a lot better than how my board is set up.
Also the more I look at dual colors the more it makes me want to redo my gpu cables and pull the black out.
Good thing I have more white and b magic on the way.


----------



## CiBi

#1 for me but it seems like i'm the only one on OCN that can tolerate the asymmetrical pattern


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> #1 for me but it seems like i'm the only one on OCN that can tolerate the asymmetrical pattern


Not the only one, I prefer #1 as well.


----------



## Rbby258

try RWRWWRRWWRWR if it hasn't already been thought of, or said


----------



## cpachris

Done! I appreciate all the feedback guys. I had been leaning towards #1 at first...but FAR more people liked #3. Plus my sweetie liked that one the best.







And now that it's in the build...I think it looks fantastic. Pidoma....thanks for the suggestion...and thank you to everyone for helping me with your opinions.

The extension was actually fairly quick to make. Took maybe 2 hours at the most. I took lots longer than that playing with color combinations.







I made it a 14 inch extension...which is probably longer than most...but I wanted it to wrap all the way around the motherboard tray, and then make the turn to be facing the PSU's with the connector. So it makes a 270 degree turn. I asked some questions in the sleeving thread about how much shorter to make the inner row of cabling so that the extension will hold its shape nicely....and Wisk and Furion92 were kind enough to supply me with the formula you would use to determine length delta. You can find it over in the Sleeving FAQ thread...or I'll give you the simple version here. As long as you are using the standard 24pin connector...you are going to have about 1/4 inch of difference in the inner row for every 90 degree of turn you want in your extension. So...if you wanted to make a perfect half circle extension....your inner row would need to be about 1/2 inch shorter than the outer row. Mine is making a 270 degree turn, so my inner row cables are 3/4 inch shorter than the outer row. And it works perfectly.

Pictures......






I put a few cable clips on it for now. I'm still planning on doing some cable sewing, but it will be one of the last things I do. It will keep the pattern a little tighter...but it holds pretty well the way it is now. I decided to use 16 awg wire for the extension so that the cabling would be a little thicker and the extension would be relatively stiff. I think it worked well. I'll probably use 18 awg for most of the rest of the 24 pin cable on the back side.

I'm still dreading the 24 pin cabling that the extension plugs into. Not nearly as easy as this was. The other part will have all of the double wire sleeving jobs to do, and I'll be adding some wires to start the 2nd PSU automatically, as well as a break wire to the Aquaero so that it can shut down the PC on an alarm trigger. But I don't feel like I need to do that before the waterblocks. With this extension done, my list of things I'm going to do before putting on all the waterblocks is getting pretty short. But I do need to grab some temperature data at different overclock levels while its still on air. I want to know what the improvement is when I go to water. Might play with some of that today.


----------



## Citra

Looks even better in the rig.


----------



## Systemlord

Nice this project is coming along great, what percentage do you think you have done this far? Also would love to know where you got those cable clips?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Looks even better in the rig.


Thanks! Feels good to have that one checked-off.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Nice this project is coming along great, what percentage do you think you have done this far? Also would love to know where you got those cable clips?


Thanks Systemlord! Tough to guess a % done. The two big things I've got left to do are take it under water, and then do some case lighting. Then I'll have small small cosmetic things to play with...but nothing major. Adjusting some wiring...sewing cables...etc.

The cable clips are the mod/Smart Kobra cable bundlers. They are a temporary measure for me until I get to the cable sewing. You can get them lots of places...but they are definitely at FrozenCPU. Linky.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks! Feels good to have that one checked-off.
> Thanks Systemlord! Tough to guess a % done. The two big things I've got left to do are take it under water, and then do some case lighting. Then I'll have small small cosmetic things to play with...but nothing major. Adjusting some wiring...sewing cables...etc.
> The cable clips are the mod/Smart Kobra cable bundlers. They are a temporary measure for me until I get to the cable sewing. You can get them lots of places...but they are definitely at FrozenCPU. Linky.


Thank for the link, your build is going to turn heads 360 degrees once it's done!


----------



## ballnuts

You should get an automatic permanent seat on the athletic director's board at OU for this build. Then maybe if you're feeling nice you can come fire all the administration at Texas Tech so we can at least have a chance at bowl game better than the acme plumbing supply bowl, or whatever we got this year.


----------



## CiBi

beautiful!


----------



## Electrocutor

I would have gone with #1 since it matches all of your other cabling better, but it seems #3 had it in the cards.

I say it's about time for you to start blocking and drowning. I decided to block before most other things so that I can get precision measurements for what Bitspower pieces I need. I've also been tinkering with some lighting, but haven't come to any conclusions yet except that I'm very glad I chose to play with flicker LEDs.


----------



## kanaks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....





Great Job on colors and execution, One noobish question, How did you manage to sleeve the USB Headers????


----------



## Wibble360

kanaks, try here


----------



## deafboy

Cleeaaannnn.....


----------



## mandrix

Nice job. I didn't realize you were doing an extension.
The run is so short from my cpu to psu that making an extension was out, plus the 24 pin on the board is offset a few inches from the pass through on the case side. I just used the cable clips, don't think I'm going to be doing any sewing with my messed up hands.

Do you already have a connector for the relay output on the Aquaero to make the ATX break work? If not the only place in US I found them was Sidewinder but they seem to be sold out at the moment. I ended up ordering one and the power connectors for the Aquaero from Aquatuning. $17.47 for shipping + customs for $3.66 worth of parts.








Upside is I ordered Thursday, and by Saturday the stuff was already in the US.


----------



## Khepira

24 pin looks beautiful! I can't believe I hadn't thought of making the inner wires shorter. Many a days of velcroing/ twist-tying cables into place to train them for a few days before they would look semi-right.


----------



## Pidoma

looks AWESOME!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ballnuts*
> 
> You should get an automatic permanent seat on the athletic director's board at OU for this build. Then maybe if you're feeling nice you can come fire all the administration at Texas Tech so we can at least have a chance at bowl game better than the acme plumbing supply bowl, or whatever we got this year.


Like the sound of the athletic director's board.







I have a video of me doing a half-time interview at a televised OU basketball game last year. I used the wrong form of the word alum in the interview. Embarrassing. I'll try and find it and post a link here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> beautiful!


Thanks CiBi!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I would have gone with #1 since it matches all of your other cabling better, but it seems #3 had it in the cards.
> I say it's about time for you to start blocking and drowning. I decided to block before most other things so that I can get precision measurements for what Bitspower pieces I need. I've also been tinkering with some lighting, but haven't come to any conclusions yet except that I'm very glad I chose to play with flicker LEDs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


#3 was definitely the OCN favorite. However, the beautiful thing about doing an extension....is if I change my mind, I can make changes to the pattern in about 5 minutes. As long as the new pattern requires the same # of white and crimson pieces. You'll need to post some video of those flickering LED's so we can see them in action.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Great Job on colors and execution, One noobish question, How did you manage to sleeve the USB Headers????


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> kanaks, try here


kanaks....looks like Wibble360 steered you in the right direction. the USB 3.0's were a challenge!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Cleeaaannnn.....


Thanks deafboy!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Nice job. I didn't realize you were doing an extension.


When I first started planning...I kind of poo-poo'd the idea of an extension. I thought an extension was for those that didn't want to make custom length cables. I've changed my thinking. Because of double wired pins, twisted wires, and other PSU manufacturer imposed nightmares on the sleeving community....







......a 24pin is THE cleanest way to have a straight run of cables that keeps the pattern. I'm still doing a custom back end to it also....but using an extension also provides a layer of abstraction with PSU changes. I can swap out a PSU for a different manufacturer's PSU... and still have my extensions work just fine and look the exact same. I'm actually thinking about making extensions for the 8pin connections also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> 24 pin looks beautiful! I can't believe I hadn't thought of making the inner wires shorter. Many a days of velcroing/ twist-tying cables into place to train them for a few days before they would look semi-right.


Next time!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> looks AWESOME!


Thanks Pidoma. For the compliment....and the suggestion on the pattern.


----------



## $ilent

chris why did you spend all this money then go with that cheap copper cooler? Is that temporary before you WC?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> chris why did you spend all this money then go with that cheap copper cooler? Is that temporary before you WC?


Yeah. He had a bigger, nicer one, but it was just a bit too oversized.


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> chris why did you spend all this money then go with that cheap copper cooler? Is that temporary before you WC?


Speaking of, I have the same exact Zalman cooler for my pre-WC testing setup!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> chris why did you spend all this money then go with that cheap copper cooler? Is that temporary before you WC?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Yeah. He had a bigger, nicer one, but it was just a bit too oversized.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Speaking of, I have the same exact Zalman cooler for my pre-WC testing setup!


Started with this one as a temporary measure....but it touched the top graphics card.



So I moved to a real cheap smaller unit that is just there as a placeholder....until I put this one on:



Real excited about getting it under water with this copper plated version of the Mips IceForce block.

I'm in the middle of doing a series of temperature / voltage tests with my cheapish air cooler. It's quickly proving to be the weak link on overclock settings. Will have more to report tomorrow.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

What camera do you use again? That copper block looks soooo nice in that shot.


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> What camera do you use again? That copper block looks soooo nice in that shot.


Agreed


----------



## HeyBear

Hi Chris,

Thought I ought to stop by here first before making posts elsewhere. I heard it has now become a rite of passage for first time posters to come and express there awe and incredulity at the behemoth your creating!

Can't wait to see everything underwater, must admit I've found it hard to visualize the loop despite Electrocuter's code diagrams. Looking forward to all your water/ air comparisons









Hope your still enjoying it all, I know I am!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> What camera do you use again? That copper block looks soooo nice in that shot.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Agreed


I'm shooting a Canon 7D most of the time. But it's really the lens that has more impact on the quality of a picture. I think that one was with my 17-55 2.8L lens. It's nice glass.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hi Chris,
> Thought I ought to stop by here first before making posts elsewhere. I heard it has now become a rite of passage for first time posters to come and express there awe and incredulity at the behemoth your creating!
> Can't wait to see everything underwater, must admit I've found it hard to visualize the loop despite Electrocuter's code diagrams. Looking forward to all your water/ air comparisons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope your still enjoying it all, I know I am!


Another first time poster! Absolutely love it. Need to go back and count at some point. Would also be interested in how many first time posters stayed and became active OCN'ers. But regardless...welcome to OCN HeyBear!


----------



## legoman786

Sorry if I'm not posting as often. Just lurking. This thread sometimes produces so much awesome, that I cannot post.


----------



## Quest99

So much tease with these blocks....and still no studio pictures of them! hehe

Keep up the great work!









Q99


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm shooting a Canon 7D most of the time. But it's really the lens that has more impact on the quality of a picture. I think that one was with my *17-55 2.8L* lens. It's nice glass.
> Another first time poster! Absolutely love it. Need to go back and count at some point. Would also be interested in how many first time posters stayed and became active OCN'ers. But regardless...welcome to OCN HeyBear!


thats a nice lens


----------



## cpachris

I've been doing some overclock testing of voltage/temp while I'm still on air...so I can see what the improvement is when I put it underwater. I'm hoping to do that this weekend. For each of the 4 overclocks, I ran tests to determine what the minimum voltage required was to keep it stable. These were not full stability tests...but each successfully ran Intel Burn Test on Very High settings, and Prime95 Blend with 12 workers for one hour. If stable...I kept ratcheting down the voltage to see how low I could get it. I recorded temperatures after 1 hour of Prime 95. All testing is being done using fixed voltage...instead of offset mode...since I'm only really trying to see the minimum required at load. Much easier to run iterations of testing using fixed voltage so that you can figure out your CPU's requirements. I'm using LLC of 3...and getting between 0.04 and 0.05 volts of vdroop at full load. So the actual fixed voltages I'm putting in the BIOS are a little bit higher than what I'm showing below. What I'm showing below is the voltage actually being used when CPU cores are at full load:

Processor Speed 3.8 GHz -- 1.08 core voltage at load -- 59c avg core temp

Processor Speed 4.0 GHz -- 1.12 core voltage at load -- 67c avg core temp

Processor Speed 4.2 GHz -- 1.17 core voltage at load -- 80c avg core temp

Processor Speed 4.4 GHz -- 1.23 core voltage at load -- 90c avg core temp (CPU being throttled)

My cheapish temporary air cooler is showing its colors here at 4.4 GHz. Even though it is stable, and will pass Intel Burn Test and Prime 95....Aida64 shows me that its being throttled to keep the temps below 90 degrees. But...this still pleases me, because its stable at 4.4 Ghz and just 1.23 volts. That's not bad. If I extrapolate my results above...it looks like I should be able to stay right around 1.4 volts for 5.0 GHz....if my CPU will do it. Will find out. At 1.4 volts, I don't expect cooling to be an issue once I've hooked up my blocks to my seven radiators.

Would love to see some voltage's required at different overclock frequencies from other members for comparison, for those with Sandy-E processors!


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm shooting a Canon 7D most of the time. But it's really the lens that has more impact on the quality of a picture. I think that one was with my 17-55 2.8L lens. It's nice glass.
> Another first time poster! Absolutely love it. Need to go back and count at some point. Would also be interested in how many first time posters stayed and became active OCN'ers. But regardless...welcome to OCN HeyBear!


I've got to admit. I started at OCF. This build among others slowly but surely brought me over here


----------



## $ilent

chris regarding that early cpu cooler, looks like a phanteks to me, couldnt you rotate it 90 degrees so its longer horizontally?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

I asked about that. He said IIRC that it was even close to the gfx card.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> I asked about that. He said IIRC that it was even close to the gfx card.


hmm im confused a little. He started out saying that the cpu cooler touched the top GPU, as below:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Started with this one as a temporary measure....but it touched the top graphics card.


I can see from here its visibly taller than it is wider, so why couldnt it be rotated? If that 120mm fan on the left thats exhausting is an issue it could be removed.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

I wondered the same thing, but if he says so, I'll believe it.


----------



## sunn1e

I have become an OCN member just for this build and it inspired me to get off my a*se and actually do a build of my own that iv been planing for months, its not wear near this scale as money is tight but i look at this everyday just too see the updates, have read from page one and my god it is looking sweet, can we have some vids and pics of the BBBB as is?


----------



## SDH500

Seems that this is a motivating thread, I just spent the better part of a day reading this entire thread then studying for the last 2 test of my degree tomorrow.
+rep for the amazing build


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> chris regarding that early cpu cooler, looks like a phanteks to me, couldnt you rotate it 90 degrees so its longer horizontally?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> I asked about that. He said IIRC that it was even close to the gfx card.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> hmm im confused a little. He started out saying that the cpu cooler touched the top GPU, as below:
> I can see from here its visibly taller than it is wider, so why couldnt it be rotated? If that 120mm fan on the left thats exhausting is an issue it could be removed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> I wondered the same thing, but if he says so, I'll believe it.


I rotated it 90 degrees so that the fans were pointing out the rear exhaust....but it was still touching...or on the verge of touching if the graphics card was drooping a little on the end. And it was the aluminum fins of the cooler that were touching...not the fan. I nudged the fans upward a little so that they were not centered. The Extreme11 is a very cramped board with 7 PCI-e slots. I'm sure the Phanteks would have cooled better than this smaller one I'm using now....but I didn't want to risk a short and its a temporary solution anyway. It'll be wet before you know it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunn1e*
> 
> I have become an OCN member just for this build and it inspired me to get off my a*se and actually do a build of my own that iv been planing for months, its not wear near this scale as money is tight but i look at this everyday just too see the updates, have read from page one and my god it is looking sweet, can we have some vids and pics of the BBBB as is?


I'm planning on doing some videos of block installation. And then I'll do some of the finished build once everything is up and running. Glad you're going to do a build...and I hope you do it here on OCN for all of us!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDH500*
> 
> Seems that this is a motivating thread, I just spent the better part of a day reading this entire thread then studying for the last 2 test of my degree tomorrow.
> +rep for the amazing build


Glad it motivated. Degree in what?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> I've got to admit. I started at OCF. This build among others slowly but surely brought me over here


Awesome to hear! Both are good forums...but I've found more of what I needed here at OCN.


----------



## Mainsil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunn1e*
> 
> I have become an OCN member just for this build and it inspired me to get off my a*se and actually do a build of my own that iv been planing for months, its not wear near this scale as money is tight but i look at this everyday just too see the updates, have read from page one and my god it is looking sweet, can we have some vids and pics of the BBBB as is?


Pretty much the same here. I decided that if someone could dedicate the time and effort for something of this magnitude, I should be able to at least do a quick and easy water cooling project.


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Awesome to hear! Both are good forums...but I've found more of what I needed here at OCN.


Indeed. The people make the place


----------



## SDH500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Glad it motivated. Degree in what?


Mechanical Engineering, I was all giddy when I saw you guys 3D modelling and making your own heat sinks. Once I have the money I will be doing something very similar


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> It'll be wet before you know it!
> I'm planning on doing some videos of block installation.


That is a vid I'm looking forward to, I have a Mips cpu block and I'm having a bit of a trouble sorting out its assembly









*ADD*: Hehe - found this, nice

http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/450-update-mips-astral-alias-iceforce-hf.html?showall=0&start=1


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> That is a vid I'm looking forward to, I have a Mips cpu block and I'm having a bit of a trouble sorting out its assembly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ADD*: Hehe - found this, nice
> http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/wasser-kuehler/450-update-mips-astral-alias-iceforce-hf.html?showall=0&start=1


That'd have to be one of the first sexy AMD blocks I've ever seen. I should've known it would be based on the sexiness of the Intel block but damn.

P.S. Intel block still moar sexy.


----------



## cpachris

Starting work on remaining cabling. Here is a picture of the PSU side. You can see the new 24pin extension plugging into the original cable. This is the one I've been dreading doing. But it must be done. Also...have one more power harness that will power the cold cathode inverter and the Blu-Ray in the pedestal. Also...one power harness for the Lamptron FC8.



Not much cabling left!


----------



## Electrocutor

Just in time for a candy cane Christmas...


----------



## mandrix

Cool. Looking good back there. Did you already wire it for shutdown from the Aquaero?
Of course it may be simpler to just use the rpm signal from the Aquaero to shut the board down, if your motherboard will work that way.

I'm going to try one of the mini tamiya connectors for my FC8. I am going to just totally remove the factory wiring and run the connector behind the side of the case, maybe split off with more minis for the pumps and some other things.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Just in time for a candy cane Christmas...


Tis the season!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Cool. Looking good back there. Did you already wire it for shutdown from the Aquaero?
> Of course it may be simpler to just use the rpm signal from the Aquaero to shut the board down, if your motherboard will work that way.
> I'm going to try one of the mini tamiya connectors for my FC8. I am going to just totally remove the factory wiring and run the connector behind the side of the case, maybe split off with more minis for the pumps and some other things.


I'm putting it together first without the shutdown wiring. I want to make sure what I'm doing will work...before I add too much to it. Should be done with it tonight. I've got all wires cut. All wires that need it have been joined and soldered. All wires have insulation stripped. I'm working on crimping pins right now...and then I'll sleeve.


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Starting work on remaining cabling. Here is a picture of the PSU side. You can see the new 24pin extension plugging into the original cable. This is the one I've been dreading doing. But it must be done. Also...have one more power harness that will power the cold cathode inverter and the Blu-Ray in the pedestal. Also...one power harness for the Lamptron FC8.
> 
> Not much cabling left!


Looking pretty damn amazing back there


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Starting work on remaining cabling. Here is a picture of the PSU side. You can see the new 24pin extension plugging into the original cable. This is the one I've been dreading doing. But it must be done. Also...have one more power harness that will power the cold cathode inverter and the Blu-Ray in the pedestal. Also...one power harness for the Lamptron FC8.
> 
> Not much cabling left!


I've been wondering and you might have answered this previously shown or answered this but I couldn't find it. Are you making your own psu wires for your 850 or are you using the wires that it came with and separating them to sleeve?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Looking pretty damn amazing back there


Thanks Khepira!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I've been wondering and you might have answered this previously shown or answered this but I couldn't find it. Are you making your own psu wires for your 850 or are you using the wires that it came with and separating them to sleeve?


Definitely making my own. The wires that come with the AX850 are all black. Since some of my sleeving is white...I would have to tape each one of them. That would be a giant PITA. Much easier to snip my own white wire to the size I want and go from there. Also...there are four 2 to 1 wires, where Corsair just sticks two wires in one pin. You can't do the shrinkless method if you're going to stick two wires in one pin....so for these I'm splicing and soldering a join in the middle of the wire, ...so that I only have one piece of sleeve going to the connector...and can do the shrinkless method. Corsair also has two wires that are twisted around each other. Short story...it would be gigantic pain to just sleeve their own wires.

As I'm working on this piece of the 24pin...I'm thinking how much easier PSU manufacturers could make it for enthusiasts...by just making a straight run of 24 pins to 24 pins. No criss-crossing. No twisting. No double wire pins. All these things are design issues being made by people who CLEARLY have never sleeved their PSU.

The extension piece of the 24pin that I've done already looks so nice and neat. It holds its pattern for the entire length. This little short piece I'm working on right now that will plug into the PSU and the extensoin.....is a mess. Wires crossing over each other. Splices. Yuck. But...at least I've kept the messy part of the cable only on the PSU side and its relatively short.


----------



## That_guy3

Case is beautiful!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks Khepira!
> Definitely making my own. The wires that come with the AX850 are all black. Since some of my sleeving is white...I would have to tape each one of them. That would be a giant PITA. Much easier to snip my own white wire to the size I want and go from there. Also...there are four 2 to 1 wires, where Corsair just sticks two wires in one pin. You can't do the shrinkless method if you're going to stick two wires in one pin....so for these I'm splicing and soldering a join in the middle of the wire, ...so that I only have one piece of sleeve going to the connector...and can do the shrinkless method. Corsair also has two wires that are twisted around each other. Short story...it would be gigantic pain to just sleeve their own wires.
> As I'm working on this piece of the 24pin...I'm thinking how much easier PSU manufacturers could make it for enthusiasts...by just making a straight run of 24 pins to 24 pins. No criss-crossing. No twisting. No double wire pins. All these things are design issues being made by people who CLEARLY have never sleeved their PSU.
> The extension piece of the 24pin that I've done already looks so nice and neat. It holds its pattern for the entire length. This little short piece I'm working on right now that will plug into the PSU and the extensoin.....is a mess. Wires crossing over each other. Splices. Yuck. But...at least I've kept the messy part of the cable only on the PSU side and its relatively short.


Great thanks for all the details basically easier to make your own cables. Thanks for the tips. Going to stick with the stock cables for now and sleeve over time. since im making my own as suggested I can keep everything plugged up.


----------



## RussianHak

Day 5: I am still trying to finish this thread. I have ran out of food 3 days ago, and water is getting scarce. Currently 3:15 Am, of the 15th on December and still no sign of the end to this thread. The torture I have set my eyes to endure is beyond horrific. God Save Us!

On a Serious note: One of the Best Building Logs I have seen in this Forum!


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Day 5: I am still trying to finish this thread. I have ran out of food 3 days ago, and water is getting scarce. Currently 3:15 Am, of the 15th on December and still no sign of the end to this thread. The torture I have set my eyes to endure is beyond horrific. God Save Us!
> On a Serious note: One of the Best Building Logs I have seen in this Forum!


Love the creativity of the post, like a wartime diary haha!


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


That THANG is LQQKING beautiful!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianHak*
> 
> Day 5: I am still trying to finish this thread. I have ran out of food 3 days ago, and water is getting scarce. Currently 3:15 Am, of the 15th on December and still no sign of the end to this thread. The torture I have set my eyes to endure is beyond horrific. God Save Us!
> On a Serious note: One of the Best Building Logs I have seen in this Forum!


This cracked me up and made me laugh out loud. Too funny! Thanks RussianHak!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Love the creativity of the post, like a wartime diary haha!


Agreed!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> That THANG is LQQKING beautiful!


Appreciate it Patrick!


----------



## cpachris

Picture progress of last night's work on the remaining portion of the 24pin. I'm back at it this morning. Should finish this little beast of a cord today:


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Picture progress of last night's work on the remaining portion of the 24pin. I'm back at it this morning. Should finish this little beast of a cord today:






Im extremely jealous of your sleeving ability. But I guess after all those fans you did you would have to be a pro by now Ha.


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> I'm shooting a Canon 7D most of the time


Selling my 7D for the new 6D. I love the 7D but just really want a Full Frame camera.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Selling my 7D for the new 6D. I love the 7D but just really want a Full Frame camera.


Yes...that one looks to be a pretty sweet way to step up to full frame photography. I almost got the 5D III when I bought the 7D. Would love to go full frame at some point...but the main thing holding me back is that I have several lenses that I love...that would not be compatible. Knowing that at some point I'll probably want to go full frame, I've stopped buying any EFS lenses, but I've still got several I shoot with all the time. My 17-55 2.8 is my main 'walking around' lens, and I also love my 60mm 2.8 macro. I don't shoot with my 10-22mm that often....but it, and the other two mentioned...would all need to be replaced.

But I do have the 70-200 2.8 IS II and a 35mm 1.4 lens that would survive my step up to full frame.


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Selling my 7D for the new 6D. I love the 7D but just really want a Full Frame camera.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes...that one looks to be a pretty sweet way to step up to full frame photography. I almost got the 5D III when I bought the 7D. Would love to go full frame at some point...but the main thing holding me back is that I have several lenses that I love...that would not be compatible. Knowing that at some point I'll probably want to go full frame, I've stopped buying any EFS lenses, but I've still got several I shoot with all the time. My 17-55 2.8 is my main 'walking around' lens, and I also love my 60mm 2.8 macro. I don't shoot with my 10-22mm that often....but it, and the other two mentioned...would all need to be replaced.
> 
> *But I do have the 70-200 2.8 IS II and a 35mm 1.4 lens that would survive my step up to full frame.*
Click to expand...

Same here. lol The exact same lens but my favorite is actually my 50mm 1.4 Sigma. Enjoy it over my 3 L series. Full frame just seems so enticing when you are in a closed environment. I hate leaving things out of the frame that I could just crop out later if I don't want it.

The price of the Mark III is too steep for me to justify for a side of a side hobby.

Also man, great great build. Go Aggies!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Im extremely jealous of your sleeving ability. But I guess after all those fans you did you would have to be a pro by now Ha.


Thanks freitz! I'm no pro...but you definitely get better at it the more you do it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Same here. lol The exact same lens but my favorite is actually my 50mm 1.4 Sigma. Enjoy it over my 3 L series. Full frame just seems so enticing when you are in a closed environment. I hate leaving things out of the frame that I could just crop out later if I don't want it.
> The price of the Mark III is too steep for me to justify for a side of a side hobby.
> Also man, great great build. Go Aggies!


Agreed....full frame is enticing.
Agreed....hate to leave things out.
Agreed....price of 5d Mark III is very steep.
Agreed....great great build.








DISAGREE.....go Aggies!


----------



## cpachris

Proof that I'm progressing. But its slow going. It's these little boogers that take more time...



But I'm about 60% done...



Man...I hope I wrote down all the pin positions correctly.







But just got a call from school and I have a sick kiddo. May slow progress. More later....


----------



## freitz

Whats with the tiny solder you don't have a large roll? What is that 1/32? 1/16?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Whats with the tiny solder you don't have a large roll? What is that 1/32? 1/16?


It was a large roll at one point in its life.







I've had it so long I don't really remember the size. But I can absolutely confirm for you that I do not have a high degree of skill when it comes to soldering. But it's kind of fun anyway.


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Proof that I'm progressing. But its slow going. It's these little boogers that take more time...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Coming along pretty good! I imagine it gets hard to maintain a color theme with all those splits, but you're doing a great job at it


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yes...that one looks to be a pretty sweet way to step up to full frame photography. I almost got the 5D III when I bought the 7D. Would love to go full frame at some point...but the main thing holding me back is that I have several lenses that I love...that would not be compatible. Knowing that at some point I'll probably want to go full frame, I've stopped buying any EFS lenses, but I've still got several I shoot with all the time. My 17-55 2.8 is my main 'walking around' lens, and I also love my 60mm 2.8 macro. I don't shoot with my 10-22mm that often....but it, and the other two mentioned...would all need to be replaced.
> But I do have the 70-200 2.8 IS II and a 35mm 1.4 lens that would survive my step up to full frame.


Wait what? less Ds is better? what kind of sick logic makes 1D the best you can get (or 0D if you want to go that far)?


----------



## sydas

ahaha at the name at first i was like oh lets see he can come up with his budget. complete opposite







nice build enjoyed looking through 150+ pages lol.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Coming along pretty good! I imagine it gets hard to maintain a color theme with all those splits, but you're doing a great job at it


Hard? Impossible. I've got 28 wires that all cross over each other. But...it's done. Pictures tomorrow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Wait what? less Ds is better? what kind of sick logic makes 1D the best you can get (or 0D if you want to go that far)?


Yeah....took me awhile to get used to that also. But it's even more confusing than that. When you get into their mid-level line...all the cameras have two digits. So...the 30D, the 40D, the 50D, the 60D, etc. If it has two digits...the higher the number... the better. But if it has 3 digits...that begins their 'Rebel" line, which is the budget line. So...if it has 1 digit....then you are dealing with good stuff...but the smaller the number the better the camera (or at least the more the camera costs). If it has two digits...then the higher the number the better the camera. And now...the Rebel line has gone away from the 3 digits...and is using letters.

I give up.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sydas*
> 
> ahaha at the name at first i was like oh lets see he can come up with his budget. complete opposite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice build enjoyed looking through 150+ pages lol.


A lot of people misread the title as the Big *"Budget"* Boomer Box. When its supposed to read the *"Big Budget"* Boomer Box. Glad you got through 150 pages..and welcome!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hard? Impossible. I've got 28 wires that all cross over each other. But...it's done. Pictures tomorrow.
> Yeah....took me awhile to get used to that also. But it's even more confusing than that. When you get into their mid-level line...all the cameras have two digits. So...the 30D, the 40D, the 50D, the 60D, etc. If it has two digits...the higher the number... the better. But if it has 3 digits...that begins their 'Rebel" line, which is the budget line. So...if it has 1 digit....then you are dealing with good stuff...but the smaller the number the better the camera (or at least the more the camera costs). If it has two digits...then the higher the number the better the camera. And now...the Rebel line has gone away from the 3 digits...and is using letters.
> I give up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people misread the title as the Big *"Budget"* Boomer Box. When its supposed to read the *"Big Budget"* Boomer Box. Glad you got through 150 pages..and welcome!


The rebels are called tX or tXi in America, but in other contries they are called XXXD similar to the other ones. I really wish they would make the naming scheme easier


----------



## Depran

chris... i've been following your thread from the beginning... i catch up every 3-4 days and its always jaw dropping... i told the wife if i ever build a new comp... i hope for a tenth of what you have produced... keep it up and when that thing goes wet... it will be a great day for computer enthusiasts everywhere.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Depran*
> 
> chris... i've been following your thread from the beginning... i catch up every 3-4 days and its always jaw dropping... i told the wife if i ever build a new comp... i hope for a tenth of what you have produced... keep it up and when that thing goes wet... it will be a great day for computer enthusiasts everywhere.


Thanks Depran! Just include some cute little baby fans in your proposed plans when you submit them to wifey for approval...and she will not be able to say no.


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Thanks Depran! Just include some cute little baby fans in your proposed plans when you submit them to wifey for approval...and she will not be able to say no.


Mine said no, Chris!







That is what I get for marrying a woman who was raised by 2 marines, she doesn't do "cute and cuddly".


----------



## cpachris

I'm done with the backside of the 24pin, and I can't tell you what a relief it is to check that off my list. Those of you with dual PSU's know what I'm talking about. For my dual PSU setup, I've been shorting a couple of wires on the second PSU to make it run without having the 24pin plugged in. That works fine...but the annoying part is that all the fans plugged into this one would continue to run even when the computer was shut down. And they run at 100%...since there is no software running to spin them more slowly. Since both GTX690's are powered by the second PSU....these two monsters would start spinning at 100% as soon as the computer shut down. Sounded like a vacuum cleaner! I would always make a mad dash to flip the PSU switch in the back of the unit off to get them to power down....so that I didn't wake up any neighbors. And...then would have to remember to switch it back on when I wanted to boot back up.

No more! With this crazy looking little cable...I've tied those two wires on the second PSU into the same two wires on the first PSU. So now...I can leave the PSU switch on for both PSU's...but when I shut down the computer everything turns off. And when I boot backup....everything comes on. I've missed that.









Here is a look at this crazy little cable. Since the 24pin for a Corsair AX850 has two plugs on the PSU side...I end up with 3 plugs on the PSU side so I can tie into the second PSU. I've elected to take these shots from a different location in my house than I normally do....so that I can spread a little Christmas cheer while updating my build log:





Here's what it looks like in the case.....



It's impossible to keep a pattern at all when the wires have to cross over each other to get to the right spot on the PSU connection. Corsair takes the 24 pins from the motherboard side, and spreads them over a 18 pin plug and a 10 pin plug. I would pay $100 extra for a PSU that simply had a 24pin connection on the PSU side that ran wire for wire to the motherboard side. Listen up Corsair!

But that is the reason I went with a pure 24 pin extension for the longest part of the cord. It stays looking neat...and the mess created when moving from 1 24 pin connector..... to 28 pins spread accross two connectors....can be largely hidden.





Next up is that black cable on the bottom in the last pic. I'm going to run a power connection from the bottom PSU to the cold cathode inverter and then to a SATA power connection for the pedestal. More to come!


----------



## Addiction

For the nightmare you had to deal with back there with 2 PSU's, that looks absolutely amazing, Chris. Outstanding work, sir.


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> For the nightmare you had to deal with back there with 2 PSU's, that looks absolutely amazing, Chris. Outstanding work, sir.


Couldn't agree with this more! Two sleeved PSUs have never looked so good. And to think it only took three PSUs to get there!


----------



## Bloitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Proof that I'm progressing. But its slow going. It's these little boogers that take more time...


Aha, you're calling me home with a lovely ensemble of wood and sleeving I see ! Most excellent. Great progress the last few weeks. Do pardon my absence lately, I have managed to catch up now, so please do continue with your fabulous work.









(yes, I'm practicing my posh English)


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> (yes, I'm practicing my posh English)


Matches your avatar quite well.


----------



## ceibga

Cpachris, I confusing why didn't you use 2 cpus with a dual-cpus mainboard (ex : EVGA Classified SR-2 Motherboard 270-WS-W555-A1) ?









It will be the most powerful


----------



## cpachris

I'm standing in a ridiculously long line right now for the Hobbit midnight premier. Too many Gandolfs and Elves around to argue with you now. But I'll tell you why I think you're wrong tomorrow.


----------



## junkerde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm done with the backside of the 24pin, and I can't tell you what a relief it is to check that off my list. Those of you with dual PSU's know what I'm talking about. For my dual PSU setup, I've been shorting a couple of wires on the second PSU to make it run without having the 24pin plugged in. That works fine...but the annoying part is that all the fans plugged into this one would continue to run even when the computer was shut down. And they run at 100%...since there is no software running to spin them more slowly. Since both GTX690's are powered by the second PSU....these two monsters would start spinning at 100% as soon as the computer shut down. Sounded like a vacuum cleaner! I would always make a mad dash to flip the PSU switch in the back of the unit off to get them to power down....so that I didn't wake up any neighbors. And...then would have to remember to switch it back on when I wanted to boot back up.
> No more! With this crazy looking little cable...I've tied those two wires on the second PSU into the same two wires on the first PSU. So now...I can leave the PSU switch on for both PSU's...but when I shut down the computer everything turns off. And when I boot backup....everything comes on. I've missed that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a look at this crazy little cable. Since the 24pin for a Corsair AX850 has two plugs on the PSU side...I end up with 3 plugs on the PSU side so I can tie into the second PSU. I've elected to take these shots from a different location in my house than I normally do....so that I can spread a little Christmas cheer while updating my build log:
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like in the case.....
> 
> It's impossible to keep a pattern at all when the wires have to cross over each other to get to the right spot on the PSU connection. Corsair takes the 24 pins from the motherboard side, and spreads them over a 18 pin plug and a 10 pin plug. I would pay $100 extra for a PSU that simply had a 24pin connection on the PSU side that ran wire for wire to the motherboard side. Listen up Corsair!
> But that is the reason I went with a pure 24 pin extension for the longest part of the cord. It stays looking neat...and the mess created when moving from 1 24 pin connector..... to 28 pins spread accross two connectors....can be largely hidden.
> 
> 
> Next up is that black cable on the bottom in the last pic. I'm going to run a power connection from the bottom PSU to the cold cathode inverter and then to a SATA power connection for the pedestal. More to come!


dat fans......


----------



## Systemlord

Wow, your almost done!









*cpachris* I don't know if you remember or not but you were using small gauge red wiring in place of fan cable wiring, do you know what gauge wire that was? I'm looking for same gauge wire as that used in ordinary fan cable wiring to make my own lengths.


----------



## JaRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm standing in a ridiculously long line right now for the Hobbit midnight premier. Too many Gandolfs and Elves around to argue with you now. But I'll tell you why I think you're wrong tomorrow.


its a great movie! i saw it for a couple of days ago (11th dec) at midnight premier too


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Wow, your almost done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *cpachris* I don't know if you remember or not but you were using small gauge red wiring in place of fan cable wiring, do you know what gauge wire that was? I'm looking for same gauge wire as that used in ordinary fan cable wiring to make my own lengths.


26 gauge is "normal". If you are stringing a bunch of fans together you might consider 24 or 22 gauge.

I left you a lot of links in your post in Cables & Sleeving for finding wire.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm standing in a ridiculously long line right now for the Hobbit midnight premier. Too many Gandolfs and Elves around to argue with you now. But I'll tell you why I think you're wrong tomorrow.


HA!

Def. going to see that tonight or sometime this weekend.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm done with the backside of the 24pin, and I can't tell you what a relief it is to check that off my list. Those of you with dual PSU's know what I'm talking about. For my dual PSU setup, I've been shorting a couple of wires on the second PSU to make it run without having the 24pin plugged in. That works fine...but the annoying part is that all the fans plugged into this one would continue to run even when the computer was shut down. And they run at 100%...since there is no software running to spin them more slowly. Since both GTX690's are powered by the second PSU....these two monsters would start spinning at 100% as soon as the computer shut down. Sounded like a vacuum cleaner! I would always make a mad dash to flip the PSU switch in the back of the unit off to get them to power down....so that I didn't wake up any neighbors. And...then would have to remember to switch it back on when I wanted to boot back up.
> No more! With this crazy looking little cable...I've tied those two wires on the second PSU into the same two wires on the first PSU. So now...I can leave the PSU switch on for both PSU's...but when I shut down the computer everything turns off. And when I boot backup....everything comes on. I've missed that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a look at this crazy little cable. Since the 24pin for a Corsair AX850 has two plugs on the PSU side...I end up with 3 plugs on the PSU side so I can tie into the second PSU. I've elected to take these shots from a different location in my house than I normally do....so that I can spread a little Christmas cheer while updating my build log:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like in the case.....
> 
> It's impossible to keep a pattern at all when the wires have to cross over each other to get to the right spot on the PSU connection. Corsair takes the 24 pins from the motherboard side, and spreads them over a 18 pin plug and a 10 pin plug. I would pay $100 extra for a PSU that simply had a 24pin connection on the PSU side that ran wire for wire to the motherboard side. Listen up Corsair!
> But that is the reason I went with a pure 24 pin extension for the longest part of the cord. It stays looking neat...and the mess created when moving from 1 24 pin connector..... to 28 pins spread accross two connectors....can be largely hidden.
> 
> 
> Next up is that black cable on the bottom in the last pic. I'm going to run a power connection from the bottom PSU to the cold cathode inverter and then to a SATA power connection for the pedestal. More to come!


Awesome bokeh effect on your Christmas tree!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Awesome bokeh effect on your Christmas tree!


I wouldn't be suprised if Chris hired a hand model for some of those pictures to hold his parts.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I wouldn't be suprised if Chris hired a hand model for some of those pictures to hold his parts.


Well we know his motto is: "if somethings worth doing its worth overdoing"


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm standing in a ridiculously long line right now for the Hobbit midnight premier. Too many Gandolfs and Elves around to argue with you now. But I'll tell you why I think you're wrong tomorrow.


I had hoped that the Lord of the Rings movie trilogy would have upped the bar for movies kind of like Star Wars did back in the day (as in the original 3), but it seems that no one besides Jackson wanted to step up to the plate. I look forward to another epic movie: not sure when I'll go to see it.

People who role-dress for conventions: I can understand. People who role-dress for movies: huh? Isn't a theater supposed to be dark?


----------



## cpachris

Hard to keep up with you guys!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Mine said no, Chris!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is what I get for marrying a woman who was raised by 2 marines, she doesn't do "cute and cuddly".


For a military girl...you probably need some camo baby fans. They look cute...and "mean".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> For the nightmare you had to deal with back there with 2 PSU's, that looks absolutely amazing, Chris. Outstanding work, sir.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Couldn't agree with this more! Two sleeved PSUs have never looked so good. And to think it only took three PSUs to get there!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> Aha, you're calling me home with a lovely ensemble of wood and sleeving I see ! Most excellent. Great progress the last few weeks. Do pardon my absence lately, I have managed to catch up now, so please do continue with your fabulous work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (yes, I'm practicing my posh English)


Thanks Addiction and Khepira and Bloitz!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceibga*
> 
> Cpachris, I confusing why didn't you use 2 cpus with a dual-cpus mainboard (ex : EVGA Classified SR-2 Motherboard 270-WS-W555-A1) ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be the most powerful


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm standing in a ridiculously long line right now for the Hobbit midnight premier. Too many Gandolfs and Elves around to argue with you now. But I'll tell you why I think you're wrong tomorrow.


First of all....welcome ceibga! Another first time poster! I played with the idea of a 2 processor board...but I really just didn't like the options out there right now. If I went with the SR-2, I'd have more cores...but would be giving up a whole lot. The SR-2 has support for smaller amounts of memory, it's triple channel memory instead of quad core memory, it has fewer SATA 3Gb connections, fewer SATA 6Gb connections, it's PCI-e 2.0 instead of PCI-e 3.0, fewer USB 2.0 connections, ZERO USB 3.0 connections, inferior audio processing, crappier bios, and a socket that really is a dead end for upgrades.

And you're probably not going to be able to overclock a dual socket setup with xeons as well as you can the Sandy-E processors. It just wasn't the right choice for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkerde*
> 
> dat fans......


Thanks junkerde!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Wow, your almost done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *cpachris* I don't know if you remember or not but you were using small gauge red wiring in place of fan cable wiring, do you know what gauge wire that was? I'm looking for same gauge wire as that used in ordinary fan cable wiring to make my own lengths.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> 26 gauge is "normal". If you are stringing a bunch of fans together you might consider 24 or 22 gauge.
> I left you a lot of links in your post in Cables & Sleeving for finding wire.


Mandrix nailed it. I like working with 22 awg better than 26 awg....but 26 awg is all you need for (mos) fans.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Awesome bokeh effect on your Christmas tree!


Thanks CiBi!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I wouldn't be suprised if Chris hired a hand model for some of those pictures to hold his parts.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Well we know his motto is: "if somethings worth doing its worth overdoing"


Ha....LOL! Perhaps it is time for a manicure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaRi*
> 
> its a great movie! i saw it for a couple of days ago (11th dec) at midnight premier too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> HA!
> Def. going to see that tonight or sometime this weekend.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I had hoped that the Lord of the Rings movie trilogy would have upped the bar for movies kind of like Star Wars did back in the day (as in the original 3), but it seems that no one besides Jackson wanted to step up to the plate. I look forward to another epic movie: not sure when I'll go to see it.
> People who role-dress for conventions: I can understand. People who role-dress for movies: huh? Isn't a theater supposed to be dark?


The Hobbit was awesome! If you've read the book (which I did as a kid), there are not many surprises....but Peter Jackson is the most phenomenal movie maker of our time. I watched the high frame rate 3d version...and it was the most visually stunning movie I've ever seen. Highly recommended!

Here is my story from last night. Of course...there were lots of "enthusiasts" that were dressed up. I walk into the restroom and pick an empty spot on the wall. Within seconds...I have a Gandalf the Grey on my left....and a Gandalf the White on my right. Full robes, beards, hair, staff....everything. So...they strike up a conversation with each other about their costumes, ...while I'm trying to complete my business. I was clearly in their way...and it was uncomfortable watching their heads bob back and forth trying to see each other while they talked...with me in the middle.


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Well we know his motto is: "if somethings worth doing its worth overdoing"


True! After reading this log for so long, I can't see any other way!


----------



## stren

Glad to know the hobbit isn't as bad as so many people who haven't seen it claimed lol. I want to take my Dad this week.

Also one reason I like the NEX1500 PSU is that it's one to one sleeving.

Anyway for a slight OT - why has no one nominated cpachris yet for the CaseLabs Club Best Build award - there's a prize and everything


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Glad to know the hobbit isn't as bad as so many people who haven't seen it claimed lol.
> I want to take my Dad this week.
> Anyway for a slight OT - why has no one nominated cpachris yet for the CaseLabs Club Best Build award - there's a prize and everything


Nominated!


----------



## TPE-331

+1 nomination for cpachris's BBBB.


----------



## CiBi

I also nominated BBBB


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Glad to know the hobbit isn't as bad as so many people who haven't seen it claimed lol. I want to take my Dad this week.
> Also one reason I like the NEX1500 PSU is that it's one to one sleeving.
> Anyway for a slight OT - why has no one nominated cpachris yet for the CaseLabs Club Best Build award - there's a prize and everything


The movie is definitely worth seeing just for the absolutely stunning visual imagery. The story is pretty good also...but this first part is primarily setting up for the big battle in the next part. You'll enjoy!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Nominated!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> +1 nomination for cpachris's BBBB.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I also nominated BBBB


Thanks guys! I'll go check out the contest rules and see what its all about.


----------



## cpachris

Here is a cable you probably won't see too often. It's a custom SATA cable, done shrinkless on both ends, with a little tail offshoot of the 12 volt and ground that will power my cold cathode inverter.


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here is a cable you probably won't see too often. It's a custom SATA cable, done shrinkless on both ends, with a little tail offshoot of the 12 volt and ground that will power my cold cathode inverter.


Looks pretty damn good


----------



## socketus

hmm, thats different. Why the combining ?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Looks pretty damn good


Thank you sir.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> hmm, thats different. Why the combining ?


The route the cable was going to take down to the pedestal....goes right by where I'm going to keep the inverter. Will help minimize the number of cables inside the build.


----------



## linkdiablo

Nice looking cables as always









O.T.: If you don't mind i'd like to promote a personnal thread here about a radiator I have lying around.

Edit:http://www.overclock.net/t/1335531/thermaltake-kandalf-lcs


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Nice looking cables as always
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> O.T.: If you don't mind i'd like to promote a personnal thread here about a radiator I have lying around.


Thanks! And...promote away!


----------



## cpachris

I know this is a little off topic...but I think its important for America, before voting in tomorrow night's episode of The Voice...to see the proof below that Terry McDermott is not human. #dontvoteforTerry


----------



## nateman_doo

Posting some updates. I know its been a while but here is the birth of one of the plastic tops.


First we have the block of Delrin on the machine untouched


First operation is the extrude of the excess material


Next are the holes and countersinking


Now the counterbores on the right side


cutting the beveled edge


And then the outer cut which lastly removes the part. I still have to make the jig for the inlet holes, but I will cut all the tops first.


----------



## cpachris

Looking good Mr. Doo. Can't wait to get my copper top version!

And now for something even more important. For previously posted reasons, all of you "The Voice" watchers already know you can't vote for Terry. Now...I'm not going to tell you WHO you should vote for...but the answer should be clear:


----------



## barkinos98

not to get you/me involved in politics, but who is this terry?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> not to get you/me involved in politics, but who is this terry?


http://www.nbc.com/the-voice/

Just another in a long list of television programs I never watch.


----------



## cpachris

All right. I've recovered enough from the trauma of watching America vote out Nicholas David last night. I'm ready to work again.

Time to put these waterblocks on...so I thought I'd start with some pictures of them:




I think they are going to look real sharp with my white Bitspower fittings....








I'll take some pictures along the way also. These first...and then I'll do the GPU's. I've promised a video of GPU block installation...and I'm a man of my word. More to come....


----------



## Addiction

Holy mother of sexy!







That looks amazing, Chris! I'm jealous.


----------



## freitz

Damn!







Im jealous


----------



## PCModderMike

Sexy blocks, sexy fittings....oh my


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Wow.... very nice! So glad I'm getting the MIPs block for my CPU.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Sexy blocks, sexy fittings....oh my


Don't look in this thread you might relapse


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of installation progress so far. Not studio pics...so not as nice. I'll do more studio pics when I'm done.

First...I disconnected cabling from the motherboard. Then I pulled the sliding motherboard tray out of my TH10 and took the motherboard off the tray. Have I told anybody recently how much I love the slideout motherboard tray that Caselabs does?



Now...lets take off that cheap air cooler for the CPU....



now lets take out the memory....



...looking more stripped down now. But its definitely time to take off the motherboard coolers now.



you can see in this shot the broken fan blades on the "x-fan". Happened last week. The little booger was so loud one night that I stuck my finger on the blades to stop them so I could really see how much quieter this was going to be once I get it wet....and it broke a couple of blades off. No worries...this thing had to go anway.



See ya x-fan....you won't be making any repeat appearances.



Time to clean up the CPU and chips that will get blocks. I've been using this cleaner lately and really like it.



Here it is all cleaned up...and with the voltage regulator block on.



..and a little closer shot.



I'll be using PK-1 for my TIM right now. I plan on using Indigo Extreme for the final CPU block mounting...but this will do for now.



Here are a couple of shots with the CPU block and both motherboard blocks. Board is starting to look a little more respectable now.





Next up will be memory blocks. Then I'll do the GPU blocks and start playing with some fitting/tubing runs to see how it looks. More to come....


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Mmmm









Looks great Chris!


----------



## PCModderMike

Becoming a work of art really all blocked up.


----------



## freitz

Tempted to return ek blocks for MIPS. Looks Great


----------



## MrOverkill

Well, I seem to be a little late, but my spirit has been very well expressed with this build.

Awesome work Chris, and congratulations on getting married.

Also, subbed and +rep, I've read every single page (some twice... I need more sleep) and found it all amazingly well done.


----------



## socketus

Aren't these the same mobo blocks that ballnuts was decrying about ? He never explained his remark ... They certainly have a minimalist look, bold.

How many of those 18 fasteners fasten on the lower block ? And while I'm at it, how do the ram blocks fasten to the ram ?


----------



## miahallen

Those blocks are super sexy!









Terry FTW!!!


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> All right. I've recovered enough from the trauma of watching America vote out Nicholas David last night. I'm ready to work again.
> Time to put these waterblocks on...so I thought I'd start with some pictures of them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think they are going to look real sharp with my white Bitspower fittings....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take some pictures along the way also. These first...and then I'll do the GPU's. I've promised a video of GPU block installation...and I'm a man of my word. More to come....


I ADORE those MIPS blocks, I think the AMD version is the only good looking AMD block I've ever seen.


----------



## Hattifnatten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> And while I'm at it, how do the ram blocks fasten to the ram ?


My guess? Just take the top of those Dominators, and replace them with the blocks


----------



## Khepira

Mobo blocks are looking great!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> how do the ram blocks fasten to the ram ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> My guess? Just take the top of those Dominators, and replace them with the blocks


Hattifnatten was correct...but here are some pictures of it for you socketus.

The aluminum fins are held on by 3 socket head bolts.



If you remove these bolts, the fins come right off. There is some TIM underneath. Mine was still in great shape, so I did not replace it.



If I wasn't watercooling the ram, I would paint these fins crimson, or black or white. The bright red color just never looked good with the crimson case and sleeving.



You use the same socket head bolts you removed with the fins, and secure the Mips blocks on top of the ram sticks. Very easy. Just took 10 minutes to do both of them. Here is one of them on....;



...and here is a shot with both of them.



I'm loving how the Mips blocks look o nthe board. I may drag it upstair for some more studio shots before I start on the GPU blocks. I'm also thinking about using some carbon fiber wrap on the connector boxes on the left side of the board (USB, ethernet, audio, etc.) I have both white and black. Don't know which would look better. May try both.


----------



## modnoob

is it illegal to sub twice to the same build log

god........ those blocks look sexy


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Time to clean up the CPU and chips that will get blocks. I've been using this cleaner lately and really like it.
> 
> Here it is all cleaned up...and with the voltage regulator block on.
> 
> 
> I'll be using PK-1 for my TIM right now. I plan on using Indigo Extreme for the final CPU block mounting...but this will do for now.


Dat TIM! Those are some nice blocks by the way!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Hate to say it, but those white fittings don't seem to match the black blocks... Maybe it will look better in the case.


----------



## socketus

I appreciate all that, cpachris - as usual, the process man with the pix







That pretty much cinched it for me, I believe I'll stick with my p8z77 v deluxe board - there is a Heatkiller set of mobo blocks .. hmm, no there isnt, not for the z77 boards. But since I'm already using the nickel Mips cpu block, mite as well add the Mips blocks. Doesn't appear to be any other choices ... only the z77 lower block isn't that smexy long block for your Asrock.


----------



## Mainsil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> ... Have I told anybody recently how much I love the slideout motherboard tray that Caselabs does?...


One of the many things I love about my SM8.

Awesome looking blocks, glad to see your project going to water. I stop by this thread just about every day. Exciting stuff.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> not to get you/me involved in politics, but who is this terry?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> http://www.nbc.com/the-voice/
> Just another in a long list of television programs I never watch.


Barkinos....America was having to vote on one of the most important issues of our time. And they voted wrong. Tragedy. Absolute tragedy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Holy mother of sexy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks amazing, Chris! I'm jealous.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Damn!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im jealous


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Sexy blocks, sexy fittings....oh my


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Wow.... very nice! So glad I'm getting the MIPs block for my CPU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Don't look in this thread you might relapse


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> Mmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great Chris!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Becoming a work of art really all blocked up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Tempted to return ek blocks for MIPS. Looks Great


Thank you all! I'm excited to be entering this phase of the build!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrOverkill*
> 
> Well, I seem to be a little late, but my spirit has been very well expressed with this build.
> Awesome work Chris, and congratulations on getting married.
> Also, subbed and +rep, I've read every single page (some twice... I need more sleep) and found it all amazingly well done.


Welcome Mr. Overkill! Glad to have a new name on the list. Hope to hear more from you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miahallen*
> 
> Those blocks are super sexy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Terry FTW!!!


Terry.....really? Really? My hobbit picture didn't persuade you at all?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I ADORE those MIPS blocks, I think the AMD version is the only good looking AMD block I've ever seen.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Mobo blocks are looking great!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> is it illegal to sub twice to the same build log
> god........ those blocks look sexy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Dat TIM! Those are some nice blocks by the way!


Thanks guys! The Mips blocks have drawn so many positive comments....I wonder if I can get Michael from Mips to pop into the thread and say hi. Michael has been fantastic with the timeliness of his responses to any question I've had. I had to bother him a couple of times today with questions about screws and spacers. He is always fast and fantastic. And I know he looks at OCN every once in awhile....because one time he even reached out and contacted me about an order I had placed...because he saw the ram I had posted some pictures of in my build log...and recognized that I had ordered the wrong blocks to fit the ram. How about that for customer service! Anyway....Michael.....pop in and take a bow for all the wonderful comments the Mips blocks have received!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Hate to say it, but those white fittings don't seem to match the black blocks... Maybe it will look better in the case.


I like the contrast. Plus...Haley likes them.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mainsil*
> 
> One of the many things I love about my SM8.
> Awesome looking blocks, glad to see your project going to water. I stop by this thread just about every day. Exciting stuff.


Thanks Mainsil!


----------



## Depran

yep the world is a better place with those blocks are finally seeing their final resting place... time to sleep knowing the world made a giant leap forward in awesomeness today...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> ... I'm also thinking about using some carbon fiber wrap on the connector boxes on the left side of the board (USB, ethernet, audio, etc.) I have both white and black. Don't know which would look better. May try both.


That is going to be fun to see. I had one hell of a time just doing the front of my psu. Would definitely like to see how you wrap the analog outs, maybe a hole punch and some good measurements?
I'm assuming you mean the outward facing sides? White would probably be my choice for your rig.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> That is going to be fun to see. I had one hell of a time just doing the front of my psu. Would definitely like to see how you wrap the analog outs, maybe a hole punch and some good measurements?
> I'm assuming you mean the outward facing sides? White would probably be my choice for your rig.


I was actually thinking about the inward facing sides....all of the ugly aluminum boxes on the inside.

The outward facing sides sound like that would be a challenge.


----------



## barkinos98

chris, thanks again! not only a CaseLabs SM8, you also will make me buy white fittings. my wallet hates you


----------



## MrOverkill

Chris, one thing that I thought about when you encountered issues with color bleed through the white sleeving a while back. Why not use white wire with a small stripe of E-tape in an identifying color (yellow, red, black, etc) at each end instead of wrapping the whole wire in white E-tape? This allows you to identify the wire at both ends while keeping it cleaner and you don't have to wrap each wire with E-tape.

Just a thought


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> chris, thanks again! not only a CaseLabs SM8, you also will make me buy white fittings. my wallet hates you


Your wallet loves me. Spending money is fun! It's your brain that hates me.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrOverkill*
> 
> Chris, one thing that I thought about when you encountered issues with color bleed through the white sleeving a while back. Why not use white wire with a small stripe of E-tape in an identifying color (yellow, red, black, etc) at each end instead of wrapping the whole wire in white E-tape? This allows you to identify the wire at both ends while keeping it cleaner and you don't have to wrap each wire with E-tape.
> Just a thought


I use white wire whenever I'm making my own cables...and just give it an indentifying mark before sleeving, so that I know when wire it is. I use red wire when I'm using my crimson sleeve. Usually when I have to tape a wire...its when I'm using wire that is already there. Like for all my fans...I did not want to mess with resoldering new wires on to the base...so I just used the existing wire. Had to tape it because of that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Depran*
> 
> yep the world is a better place with those blocks are finally seeing their final resting place... time to sleep knowing the world made a giant leap forward in awesomeness today...


Thanks Depran!


----------



## MrOverkill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I use white wire whenever I'm making my own cables...and just give it an indentifying mark before sleeving, so that I know when wire it is. I use red wire when I'm using my crimson sleeve. Usually when I have to tape a wire...its when I'm using wire that is already there. Like for all my fans...I did not want to mess with resoldering new wires on to the base...so I just used the existing wire. Had to tape it because of that.


Ah, ok. Makes sense. I'd guess that my memory of why you had to tape wire got lost around 150 pages ago. Haha. Awesome build though, I really wish I had this kind of money.


----------



## cpachris

Presenting...the Asrock Extreme11...by Mips. Mips everything. Mips memory blocks, Mips CPU block, Mips board blocks.





You'll notice on several of these shots I've made a quick attempt at using some carbon fiber wrap on some of the I/O board boxes. Tried both black and white....I think the black looks much better. I'll go back and do them all with black.
















I've got the GPU blocks done also. Shot a video while I was doing it. Not sure how it came out yet...but I'll post it tonight or tomorrow. Takes a little time to encode. Will do some pictures of the GPU blocks also. They sure look purdy.


----------



## freitz

WOW>!!! Great job MIPS and im excited to see what this looks like mounted and plumbed.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Presenting...the Asrock Extreme11...by Mips. Mips everything. Mips memory blocks, Mips CPU block, Mips board blocks.


I want a floating mobo!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

What about the doo's blocks?


----------



## Electrocutor

I'll be interested to see how you set up in-case lighting to show off that copper.


----------



## GingerJohn

1. Put on bib
2. Open up BBBB build log
3. ?????
4. Mop up desk.

Looks amazing Chris, great shots there.

I did notice the carbon fiber wrap and I agree, the black looks so much better.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'll be interested to see how you set up in-case lighting to show off that copper.


^ This ^


----------



## CiBi

You should ask MIPS to make you some GPU blocks


----------



## muffet

Been following this build log from the beginning, even though I haven't put any input into the build it is fantastic and I look forward to seeing updates all the time. There is just one problem now. I see pesky screws on these MIPS blocks that don't match the rest of the build, wouldn't you like those to be copper plated too?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> WOW>!!! Great job MIPS and im excited to see what this looks like mounted and plumbed.


Me too!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> I want a floating mobo!


The flotating motherboard is a special add-on option you can put in the cart at checkout. Heh heh. I put the board on some photo albums that have a bigger spine than the end that opens...so it was slanted a little bit. Yeah...kind of looks like its floating, doesn't it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> What about the doo's blocks?


Nate's blocks are still in process. Decided I couldn't wait...and since I have a second Asrock Extreme11 board already sitting and waiting on the next build...I'll have a use for both the Mips and the Doo. I'll test each for best performance. Top performer goes in the BBBB...second place goes in the JennG build which is coming up soon. Nate got interrupted with a call to service during Sandy....but he's back again now. I would imagine we'll see some progress after the holidays. Or at least I hope. Please Nate...finish them!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'll be interested to see how you set up in-case lighting to show off that copper.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> ^ This ^


I played with some of my Hitlights a few days ago. I'm planning on something simple and clean. Primarily white light that highlights the motherboard...controlled by the FC8 so I can adjust the brightness. I've also been playing with the AQ5 RGB LED, and I think I'm going to use it to light my reservoir. Make the normal lighting a soft white...but have it turn deep red when the water starts heating up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> 1. Put on bib
> 2. Open up BBBB build log
> 3. ?????
> 4. Mop up desk.
> Looks amazing Chris, great shots there.
> I did notice the carbon fiber wrap and I agree, the black looks so much better.


Thanks GingerJohn! Yeah...no doubt the black is what is needed. Now I just need to practice with it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> You should ask MIPS to make you some GPU blocks


Might be interesting to have a matching set. Although the Aquagrafx 690 blocks look pretty spectacular also. Working on editing right now of installation video. Should have it ready tomorrow. Along with some pictures.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffet*
> 
> Been following this build log from the beginning, even though I haven't put any input into the build it is fantastic and I look forward to seeing updates all the time. There is just one problem now. I see pesky screws on these MIPS blocks that don't match the rest of the build, wouldn't you like those to be copper plated too?


Possibly! I'm going to do one final copper plating batch, and one final white powdercoat batch before I call it done. I'll give that one some thought! Thanks for the ideas muffet!


----------



## cpachris

Here is the video on installation of the aquacomputer aquagrafx 690 blocks....






Working on some pictures now!


----------



## TPE-331

BBBB - Big Beautiful Badass Block.


----------



## True North

WOW Chris, that looks awesome. Maybe I missed the post but did you give up on using 64 GB of RAM? It looks like you are only installing 32 gb.


----------



## tdhall81

any decision on the back plates for the 690s yet?


----------



## Khepira

Blocks look amazing Chris!


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

I don't see any pictures yet. There must be something wrong with my Internet..


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here is the video on installation of the aquacomputer aquagrafx 690 blocks....
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some pictures now!


That song.


----------



## Lrae Nekram

Hey CpaChris,

First post on OCN and definitely all because of this build log. Truly amazing to read and watch the vids (loved the fan dominoes) and pictures. If nothing else this build log has made it a certainty that with my next build I will switch from air to watercooled. The parts are just too pretty









Anyway I apologise for the length of this post but I figured since I just spent a few days reading the whole log that I'd take the opportunity to ask some questions and make a few comments.

I've noticed that a few people have asked about the double cpu option and I totally agree with your answer about the xeons. But I am curious will you look at the new 3970X (since this is such an extreme build) or wait for Ivy Bridge-E in Q3 next year before considering an upgrade? Also do you have a set minimum oc goal for the 3960X?

I love the massive features of the AE11 and the mips waterblocks but, just my opinion, the white fittings which look amazing everywhere else just don't look great with the black tops of the motherboard blocks. I am really looking forward to seeing what Doo doos with his blocks. Any chance you'd look into him making copper/plated tops for his blocks? I think the copper and white fittings look incredible; really love those rads you've got in the case. I know the raw copper isn't everyone's cuppa but I love it.

Yes, you are correct. Your PSU's are the prettiest I've ever seen.









Your RAID array is incredible but just wondering if there was a reason you didn't go with OCZ's Vector series? I've read a few reviews and they all seem to agree that these are the fastest out there right now.

I know you're already setup with the 690's and I think they look great and will do an amazing job. Just wish I'd known about this log earlier so I could have suggested a tri-sli of Gigabyte's 670 4GB OC as your interim solution. You would have gotten your 4GB for multiple monitors, had the 670's great oc'ing ability, saved at least $500 on the cards themselves, and, my favourite part, because these cards use 680 size PCB's you can fit 680 waterblocks. Just an opinion but I think the 680 and 690 blocks are much, much better looking than the 670 blocks. That said this build is go big or go home. So two waterblocked 690's as an interim solution seems entirely appropriate









Not a memory expert by any stretch but at least for what I do I've found that striking a balance between clock speed and latency is better than just the higher frequency. Currently I have 8gb at 1600mhz and CL8, I suspect if I wanted to I could get it to CL7 without much difficulty and it is the fastest memory I've ever owned. So I reckon if you can get 64gb to 1600mhz and CL9 it should be plenty fast; anything faster than that probably doesn't provide a noticeable real world difference but is mostly for benchmarking.

Anyway I think I've gone on long enough







Just wanted to say that this build is amazing, I love the colour scheme, the attention to detail and the raw power of what you are building. Congratulations on the engagement, although you may have to finish soon so you can help plan and organise the wedding right? Hehehehehe, I really thought the computer would be done by page 260 and that the final ten would be pictures and people drooling over it. Oh well Subbed.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> BBBB - Big Beautiful Badass Block.


Bye Bye Boring Blocks.....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *True North*
> 
> WOW Chris, that looks awesome. Maybe I missed the post but did you give up on using 64 GB of RAM? It looks like you are only installing 32 gb.


Still undecided...but I ran into an issue where when I have all 8 slots populated...it was lowering the Physics score on 3dmark significantly. I know that probably sounds strange...but it was a repeatable result with the only change being # of ram slots filled. Decided I would run 4 sticks at a faster frequency, and see how much of the 32GB gets chewed up during some of my work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdhall81*
> 
> any decision on the back plates for the 690s yet?


I like dwood's stuff. But I was holding off to see how much clearance I was going to have with the block. The placement of the inlet/outlet on the Mips board block...will prohibit use of backplate for any thing in slot #3. I'm still playing with options on the slots I'm going to use. If I can stay away from using slot #1...the tubing run goes a lot cleaner. But that pushes one of the cards down to slot #7...and it really hinders a lot of stuff down there (usb, audio, debug LED, power/reset, etc.).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Blocks look amazing Chris!


Thanks Khepira! I'm really happy with them. Been looking at them in a box for 3 months now...glad to be seeing them on the board.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> I don't see any pictures yet. There must be something wrong with my Internet..










Ended up doing a lot of "almost last minute" shopping tonight. For some reason...my kids expect presents next week! I'll have the pictures finished tomorrow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> That song.


Did you recognize the artist on the first one?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lrae Nekram*
> 
> Hey CpaChris,
> First post on OCN and definitely all because of this build log. Truly amazing to read and watch the vids (loved the fan dominoes) and pictures. If nothing else this build log has made it a certainty that with my next build I will switch from air to watercooled. The parts are just too pretty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I apologise for the length of this post but I figured since I just spent a few days reading the whole log that I'd take the opportunity to ask some questions and make a few comments.
> I've noticed that a few people have asked about the double cpu option and I totally agree with your answer about the xeons. But I am curious will you look at the new 3970X (since this is such an extreme build) or wait for Ivy Bridge-E in Q3 next year before considering an upgrade? Also do you have a set minimum oc goal for the 3960X?
> I love the massive features of the AE11 and the mips waterblocks but, just my opinion, the white fittings which look amazing everywhere else just don't look great with the black tops of the motherboard blocks. I am really looking forward to seeing what Doo doos with his blocks. Any chance you'd look into him making copper/plated tops for his blocks? I think the copper and white fittings look incredible; really love those rads you've got in the case. I know the raw copper isn't everyone's cuppa but I love it.
> Yes, you are correct. Your PSU's are the prettiest I've ever seen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your RAID array is incredible but just wondering if there was a reason you didn't go with OCZ's Vector series? I've read a few reviews and they all seem to agree that these are the fastest out there right now.
> I know you're already setup with the 690's and I think they look great and will do an amazing job. Just wish I'd known about this log earlier so I could have suggested a tri-sli of Gigabyte's 670 4GB OC as your interim solution. You would have gotten your 4GB for multiple monitors, had the 670's great oc'ing ability, saved at least $500 on the cards themselves, and, my favourite part, because these cards use 680 size PCB's you can fit 680 waterblocks. Just an opinion but I think the 680 and 690 blocks are much, much better looking than the 670 blocks. That said this build is go big or go home. So two waterblocked 690's as an interim solution seems entirely appropriate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a memory expert by any stretch but at least for what I do I've found that striking a balance between clock speed and latency is better than just the higher frequency. Currently I have 8gb at 1600mhz and CL8, I suspect if I wanted to I could get it to CL7 without much difficulty and it is the fastest memory I've ever owned. So I reckon if you can get 64gb to 1600mhz and CL9 it should be plenty fast; anything faster than that probably doesn't provide a noticeable real world difference but is mostly for benchmarking.
> Anyway I think I've gone on long enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to say that this build is amazing, I love the colour scheme, the attention to detail and the raw power of what you are building. Congratulations on the engagement, although you may have to finish soon so you can help plan and organise the wedding right? Hehehehehe, I really thought the computer would be done by page 260 and that the final ten would be pictures and people drooling over it. Oh well Subbed.


Shwew! That was a lot of intelligent comments from a first timer! Welcome! I appreciate all the thoughts and comments, and its clear you really must have read everything. That in and of itself is an accomplishment. I'll try and respond to most of the questions/comments.

I've read briefly on the 3970x...and it seemed like a disappointing upgrade. IIRC the only real thing that changed was a small frequency bump. Since I'm already planning a "big" frequency bump via overclock...I don't know if it makes sense to upgrade. If I was buying new at this point...yes...I would go 3970. But I don't feel compelled to upgrade. Ivy-E will probably get my money though. I hope to have a pretty stable 4.8 GHz everyday overclock that doesn't run too much vcore. And then hopefully an extreme profile where I can push over 5.0 GHz for some of my work. The thing that is strange to some...is all the cooling equipment in the box...really won't help me achieve a significantly better overclock. It will help me keep a reasonable temp with very low fan noise...but not necessarily to go much higher on the overclock.

The white is a little shocking for some...but I love the contrast it gives. It blends in well inside the case since the entire inside if white, along with all the rads/fans/cables etc. But yes...the top on my Doo blocks will be solid copper. Should look nice.

Regarding the OCZ Vector....I don't think it had been released yet when I bought all my drives. I need to read a little more about it. I'm having issues with my Areca card and the Vertex 4's. Areca techs tell me that the Vertex 4 has issues with any raid card that has an expander on it. I'm trying to get that confirmed from several sources before I choose an alternate route...but it looks like I may need to either select another card....or another drive. Will post an update soon....

I"m happy with the 690's...and love having only two slots taken up.

Again, I appreciate all the comments and hope to see your name pop again soon. The OCN community is great...you'll love it.


----------



## R4V3N

I appreciate the Hall and Oats. Always a guilty pleasure for me, along with Bread.

The blocks are looking fantastic, by the way.

I, however, have recently realized that my primary video card is reference layout, and knowing this straight away put a deposit on my next card, while they still presumably had the same batch. As it turns out my second card was a revision with different PCB that will not fit reference blocks to my knowledge (I could be wrong, but I'm not going to buy the blocks just to find out). Guess I'll stick to air and all in one for now. Next build... Next build......

Anyway, looking great, can't wait to see it all plumbed up


----------



## barkinos98

OCN should pay chris since he makes people create an account in the forums


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> OCN should pay chris since he makes people create an account in the forums


I don't know about that, he does have a tremendous amount of first time posters, but I don't know if it warrants a salary. What would be nice would be to have a stat tallying how many first time posters your threads have.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I don't know about that, he does have a tremendous amount of first time posters, but I don't know if it warrants a salary. What would be nice would be to have a stat tallying how many first time posters your threads have.


it was a joke. im sure they wont pay him


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> it was a joke. im sure they wont pay him


Sorry for the off-topic, but from what I am reading sometimes the opposite is true, off course this is just the one side of the story so I'll take it with a pinch of salt.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?282245-Stren-s-2012-CPU-Water-Block-Roundup&p=5149491&viewfull=1#post5149491


----------



## InsideJob

The post in that link is referring to users having to pay OCN for uploading sponsored reviews/content, not OCN paying users.

Great looking updates Chris. Seems like we might see a complete system sometime in the near future


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of the Aquacomputer Aquagrafx 690 blocks. This board now weighs more than 15 pounds! And that's without any fittings...which are pretty darn heavy themselves. Or the raid card.

















Working on some plumbing options now. With this many blocks...it creates a LOT of tube or fittings. I'm going to try and do the board primarily with fittings and a little crystal link. Keep the tubing runs coming to the board and away from the board. The placement of the inlets/outlets on the motherboard block require either using some long extensions to come around the graphics card...or to put the graphics cards in slots 3 and 5 like I have in the pictures above. This would leave slot 7 or the raid card...but that covers up some stuff below slot 7. I could put raid card in slot 1...but then that still requires some long extensions...but not quite as long as if the GPU were there.


----------



## nvidiaftw12




----------



## Jeffinslaw

I need to go change my pants now... wow!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Katcilla

I don't think I've ever seen so much waterblock bling on one board...
Awesome stuff as always Chris!


----------



## Solonowarion

Mother of god


----------



## strong island 1

Wow this is amazing. I am a little late to the party but it's hard not to sub to something so amazing. Really nice work. I am hoping to get my STH10 today.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Pictures of the Aquacomputer Aquagrafx 690 blocks. This board now weighs more than 15 pounds! And that's without any fittings...which are pretty darn heavy themselves. Or the raid card.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Loads of drool worthy pics


Wow.

Simply wow.

Oh, and did I mention, wow.

Looking amazing, good to see that the ports on Doo's block clear the back of the top 690 as planned, although there isn't a whole lot of space to spare there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Mother of god


Spoiler tags - useful things:


Spoiler: How to use spoiler tags



Either type out the following without the spaces:

[ s p o i l e r = your text here ]

Lots of quoted content or pictures that don't need to be displayed twice, no matter how awesome they are.

[ / s p o i l e r ]

Or highlight the text you want to place inside the spoiler and click on the spoiler button at the top of the reply box. It is the one that looks like a black speech bubble


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Wow.
> Simply wow.
> Oh, and did I mention, wow.
> Looking amazing, good to see that the ports on Doo's block clear the back of the top 690 as planned, although there isn't a whole lot of space to spare there.
> Spoiler tags - useful things:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How to use spoiler tags
> 
> 
> 
> Either type out the following without the spaces:
> [ s p o i l e r = your text here ]
> Lots of quoted content or pictures that don't need to be displayed twice, no matter how awesome they are.
> [ / s p o i l e r ]
> Or highlight the text you want to place inside the spoiler and click on the spoiler button at the top of the reply box. It is the one that looks like a black speech bubble


Spoilers don't do much good. Make the page shorter, but don't reduce loading times. Which was still short though, even for me.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Spoilers ... *Make the page shorter*


That is the point, to save scrolling through content multiple times.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> That is the point, to save scrolling through content multiple times.


Yes, I agree with that, but better just to snip them. Anyhow, enough ot.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*


Took the picture right out of my mind.


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Looking very good. I'm looking forward to seeing it in the case - the colour schemes should complement nicely.

No backplates? The electronics look nice, just curious.


----------



## CiBi

that looks very good!


----------



## Quest99

Wow...love the studios pictures!

Black and copper blocks look fantastic. Things that makes you go hmmm.









Keep it up!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> This board now weighs more than 15 pounds!


Sounds like you'd best get that guy mounted on your tech station so you don't torque the PCB to death when moving it around.

That is a seriously beautiful setup. If you'd like to bounce any plumbing ideas around, I'd be happy to drop some ideas and feedback.


----------



## Systemlord

Pure insanity, copper never looked so drop dead gorgeous!









Next time I will be wearing a depends before I come back hear to see your insane job and creativity!


----------



## mandrix

Love all the copper bling. Stunning.
Be very careful with your gpu's in the slots with all that weight. Remember I managed to bork a pci slot on one of my UD5H boards trying to wrestle an SLI fitting in between two cards. When you start installing fittings between the blocks it's easier (to me) to do it on a table and then lift the whole assembly and insert the cards in the slots. This is where you'll really love having that removable tray.

Everything coming together so nice!


----------



## NOCA

Do you know if the 690 blocks are compatible with the AQ sli bridge system? And if they are, are you planning on using it? I really think the acetal bridge would go well with the acetal on the mips blocks


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Now that I can see these pictures on my computer instead of my phone, holy cow.... that board is just beautiful. Not to mention expensive! Hah! That's like what, over three grand right there in that picture? Absolutely beautiful.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Now that I can see these pictures on my computer instead of my phone, holy cow.... that board is just beautiful. Not to mention expensive! Hah! That's like what, over three grand right there in that picture? Absolutely beautiful.
> Jeffinslaw


2 grand for gpus, 1 grand for cpu, another grand for mobo+ram, and 500-800 for blocks i think


----------



## Tr4il

..........
I just cannot find the words to describe this!
It would probably be somthing like [insertbadwordshere] !!!
Just awesome!
Took me like a week to get through the whole buildlog, and you're not even finished yet!


----------



## MilesIsted

Awesome Chris ? Are you getting any backplates, and are you installing the second set of RAM?


----------



## Khepira

Yummmmmm


----------



## TPE-331

Absolutely stunning gear!








All that is needed now is a couple of finely machined solid copper backplates to accent the 690s.


----------



## The LAN Man

this thing looks incredible can't wait till it's finished


----------



## cpachris

This is one thing that Santa JennG and kids left for me under the tree this morning. They must have been reading the build log. Heh heh.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> This is one thing that Santa JennG and kids left for me under the tree this morning. They must have been reading the build log. Heh heh.






Lol and Santa Jenn after reading the build log figured you didn't need anything else! Nice.


----------



## cpachris

Ok. Plumbing gets a little crazy with 9 blocks and 7 radiators, but here is a first pass at what it might look like. I'm looking for input and suggestions:

Start at the helix reservoir, and it goes like this:

1) The first D5 gets fed from the helix reservoir, and then goes behind the motherboard tray to re-emerge at the top of the board (1). Then the loop would go join#2>ram>cpu>motherboard>ram>vrm>exit to #3

2) The second D5 gets fed from the helix reservoir, and then goes to the bottom graphics card (2). Then the loop would go gpu>gpu>join#1

So these would be two subloops, each powered by their own D5...but the subloop with the graphics card would join the other subloop to create some additional head and flow. Both subloops exit the motherboard area at #3

3) #3 will exit the motherboard area and go behind the motherboard tray to feed the 2 AQ5 blocks...and then to the inlet at the top of the OU reservoir.

4) the OU reservoir will then feed the dual D5's in the pedestal and start a round trip to all 7 radiators. Once the radiator loop is complete...it will dump back into the top of the helix reservoir.



Here are some shots without the colored numbers...









I'm playing with several ideas here...not all of which will make the final plumbing layout. You'll see a couple of instances where I've used some Deep Red Bitspower crystal link fittings. With these..I'm trying to see if I like breaking up the white fittings with some red...and really tying in all the case/fan colors into the plumbing by having red/white together. If I go this route....I'll do it at each crystal link section....not just two of them. If I don't like it...I'll remove it from all.

You will also see several instances of crystal link between the fittings. I'm not married to this yet. The options would be to use just the white extenders and have solid fittings run between the blocks. But I kind of like the way the crystal link breaks up a solid run of white, and lets you still see the board/components through the acrylic. Alternatively....I could use compression fittings with clear tube...which you can see at the Y connector where the GPU subloop joins the other subloop.

Would love your thoughts on...

1) plumbing path
2) use of some red bitspower fittings....or all white
3) crystal link vs solid white extenders vs tubing with compression fittings.

Thanks!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

I personally like tubing better.

Also, wouldn't it be better to push water down through the graphics cards, not up?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I'm not a big fan of all of the crystal link sets and the random red fittings. It looks off. I would suggest clear tubing with Oklahoma red coolant and white compression fittings!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

I am so in luv... Why don't you have the two D5 in line with each other, And the GPU parallel???

Not a fan of the random red fittings as well... But like the crystal link.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'm not a big fan of all of the crystal link sets and the random red fittings. It looks off. I would suggest *clear tubing with Oklahoma red coolant and white compression fittings!*
> Jeffinslaw


Good idea.


----------



## GingerJohn

I would consider a slightly different flow path:

1st loop:

Res > D5 > left RAM > CPU > right RAM > mosfet > OU res

2nd loop:

Res > D5 > GPU2 > GPU 1 > motherboard > AQ5 blocks > OU res

3rd loop:

Res loop as planned.

For the second loop I would plumb the GPUs like this:


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> I personally like tubing better.
> Also, wouldn't it be better to push water down through the graphics cards, not up?


Seems like in a closed loop....you end up with the same effort whether you are pushing the water up the backside so that it can come down through the graphics cards...or vice versa. I wouldn't think there would be any difference in flow. Plus...this way, the tubing run is much cleaner. I think. Suggest a path with water coming down the graphics cards.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'm not a big fan of all of the crystal link sets and the random red fittings. It looks off. I would suggest clear tubing with Oklahoma red coolant and white compression fittings!
> Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> I am so in luv... Why don't you have the two D5 in line with each other, And the GPU parallel???
> Not a fan of the random red fittings as well... But like the crystal link.


The red wouldn't be random if I go that route. They would be at both ends of every fitting/tubing run. So it wouldn't look random.....I think.

Can't do dye in the coolant....because I'm showing off the reservoirs. Must be clear coolant.

Didn't want to go parallel on GPU's because I would be worried about enough flow. Mandrix had his temps go up like 8 degrees or something when he switched his GPU's to parallel.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> I would consider a slightly different flow path:
> 1st loop:
> Res > D5 > left RAM > CPU > right RAM > mosfet > OU res
> 2nd loop:
> Res > D5 > GPU2 > GPU 1 > motherboard > AQ5 blocks > OU res
> 3rd loop:
> Res loop as planned.
> For the second loop I would plumb the GPUs like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How would you run the 2nd loop from motherboard to the AQ5 blocks? They are not shown in the picture...but when I have all my SATA cables hooked up...they fill up the area to the right of the graphics card pretty well. Especially all the SATA breakouts from the raid card. I think it might get messy to have tubing/fittings going out that way.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Can't do dye in the coolant....because I'm showing off the reservoirs. Must be clear coolant.


Okay, then how about custom dyed tubing and white compression fittings? Use plain old water to cool it! I think that would look AWESOME!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Okay, then how about custom dyed tubing and white compression fittings? Use plain old water to cool it! I think that would look AWESOME!
> Jeffinslaw


Crimson tubing is a possibility. I might plumb one up with just compression fittings and tubing to see what it looks like.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Crimson tubing is a possibility. I might plumb one up with just compression fittings and tubing to see what it looks like.


I know you'll love it!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## jwalkermed

Love the red fittings and crystal link. Keep on keepin on.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Seems like in a closed loop....you end up with the same effort whether you are pushing the water up the backside so that it can come down through the graphics cards...or vice versa. I wouldn't think there would be any difference in flow. Plus...this way, the tubing run is much cleaner. I think. Suggest a path with water coming down the graphics cards.


Whatever works best for you. I'm not the best at visualizing tubing, so I'll let others suggest if they think another way would be better.


----------



## Wibble360

I'm with the white compression fittings and dyed crimson tubing.

IMO too many compression fittings / crystal links looks a little untidy - longer arcs of tubing might look more elegant and the crimson would break up the white background of the case nicely


----------



## stren

Red fittings and full crystal link (if you're running just water) with no dye, use tube only on the back side/pedestal. If you use tube, use smaller diameter tube to match the links a bit better. Right now you have some fat tube going on that looks out of proportion. If you run dye keep all the fittings white, however then you may as well have got boring reservoirs so I'd avoid dye.


----------



## stren

Also get some GPU backplates powdercoated please









Also frozen q should be able to do you some white end caps for the reservoirs, and the D5's need matching white covers









I have much higher standards for your build than mine









Also I really don't like subloops, I much prefer individual loops with QDCs so you can change parts easily particularly when you have so many radiators and pumps


----------



## miahallen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ok. Plumbing gets a little crazy with 9 blocks and 7 radiators, but here is a first pass at what it might look like. I'm looking for input and suggestions:


Well, you get some points for creativity, but I don't recommend going with this loop setup. Your pumps are in parallel, which is a no-no (more here)...you need to come up with a single loop where both pumps are in series.

My suggestion would be: helix res #1 >> pump #1 >> GPUs in parallel (inlet & outlet at bottom for cleanliness) >> bottom radiators >> helix res #2 >> pump #2 >> CPU/mobo/RAM/VRM >> top radiators >> beginning. With everything on a single large loop, the pumps will be working together so you'll have stronger flow, and you'll have a fail safe in case one of them dies.

Oh and yes Chris, you are correct about your assumptions with a closed loop


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Ok stupid question time... For Series and parallel loops, is there any testing to show what is better for you's? Is there any tests that shows the difference for radiators I would think parallel would be better as then the water is cooled for a longer time?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jwalkermed*
> 
> Love the red fittings and crystal link. Keep on keepin on.


Thanks jwalkermed!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Whatever works best for you. I'm not the best at visualizing tubing, so I'll let others suggest if they think another way would be better.


I'll noodle on it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> I'm with the white compression fittings and dyed crimson tubing.
> IMO too many compression fittings / crystal links looks a little untidy - longer arcs of tubing might look more elegant and the crimson would break up the white background of the case nicely


If I used tubing...then there are going to be a LOT of compression fittings in a small area. I'll give it a try and see what it looks like...but some of the turns are sharper than I like with tubing. I don't think it would look long and elegant. But we'll see.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Red fittings and full crystal link (if you're running just water) with no dye, use tube only on the back side/pedestal. If you use tube, use smaller diameter tube to match the links a bit better. Right now you have some fat tube going on that looks out of proportion. If you run dye keep all the fittings white, however then you may as well have got boring reservoirs so I'd avoid dye.


I had some crystal link in that place for a little bit...but since the graphics card has zero wiggle room...it was tough to get an exact match height wise...and the crystal link wasn't sitting as square as I would like it. If I end up having to keep tubing in that spot, I'll get a smaller size compression fitting. Right now...I've got a lot of $$'s tied up in 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD compression fittings. Easy to change the tubing...not so easy on all the fittings. But...I could spring for a few.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Also get some GPU backplates powdercoated please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also frozen q should be able to do you some white end caps for the reservoirs, and the D5's need matching white covers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have much higher standards for your build than mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I really don't like subloops, I much prefer individual loops with QDCs so you can change parts easily particularly when you have so many radiators and pumps


I've always been thinking backplates....but the look of the PCB has grown on me also. Still thinking about it.

I might inquire about some white tops for the reservoirs.

And believe it or not....I've already been requesting some white D5 dress-kits. Bitspower, and Vincent, have gone silent on me again. Same as when I was first trying to get hold of them months ago. Nothing is more frustrating than simply not getting any response. I'd much rather just get a "no", and I would respect that more, than not to get any type of response at all. Might have to consider those monsoon fittings.....

I can't come up with something that QDC's would help me with. I actually have some. But with blocks on EVERYTHING...I can't come up with anything that I could really do without draining the loop down past the motherboard....even with QDC's. Give me a scenario where they would benefit me. Sell me.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miahallen*
> 
> Well, you get some points for creativity, but I don't recommend going with this loop setup. Your pumps are in parallel, which is a no-no (more here)...you need to come up with a single loop where both pumps are in series.
> My suggestion would be: helix res #1 >> pump #1 >> GPUs in parallel (inlet & outlet at bottom for cleanliness) >> bottom radiators >> helix res #2 >> pump #2 >> CPU/mobo/RAM/VRM >> top radiators >> beginning. With everything on a single large loop, the pumps will be working together so you'll have stronger flow, and you'll have a fail safe in case one of them dies.
> Oh and yes Chris, you are correct about your assumptions with a closed loop


I'd read Martin's study. It's not directly applicable though. He concluded that parallel didn't have any significant benefits over serial. But I've got both. There are 4 pumps total. I've already got all the benefits of serial pumps. And the pumps for the two subloops are not really parallel, since one pump powers the GPU subloop before being combined with the other subloop. Different than what Martin was testing.

But I will think about the proposed loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> Ok stupid question time... For Series and parallel loops, is there any testing to show what is better for you's? Is there any tests that shows the difference for radiators I would think parallel would be better as then the water is cooled for a longer time?


I'll probably settle on 2 or 3 possibilities....and then run actual tests for each possibility. Flow and temperature for each. I can't think how running the radiators parallel would cool the longer water. Main benefit of running parallel is to get less pressure drop, ...which should increase flow rate in the part of the loop that is not parallel. It's going to lower the flow rate in the parallel portion...because you are dividing your flow in half. Flow rate won't fall exactly by one half though....because there will be less resistance.


----------



## mandrix

I don't see any benefit either to parallel radiators. As for the gpu's, if you think you have enough flow you can go parallel. When I ran my gpu's parallel I may have had some other issues going on with Aida not reporting the correct temp to Aquasuite, plus I had a single pump at the time.
Will be interesting to see what the sub loops yield. I am not sold on that idea but I certainly won't discourage you. I would probably do two loops with dual (or triple!) pumps.


----------



## Electrocutor

If you wanted plumbing in straight lines, you could; but some of them would cross paths.


----------



## Mainsil

Great looking stuff. Using crystal links and fittings on board keeps it really tidy.


----------



## Woody1991

Ive finally reached the end. Beautiful build Chris!
Edit: I like the crystal link. It looks really tidy.


----------



## meeps

I'm a fan of crystal links + red end fittings. It continues the builds theme in an area that's seemingly holding it's own theme


----------



## Systemlord

Boy when I looked at my sub threads I knew there had been pictures posted given the number of posts since I was last here, I love how you did the crystal links as it looks much better that tubing. This has been an exciting journey so far, a part of me wishes it wouldn't end!


----------



## Lrae Nekram

Hey Chris,

First off I have got to say you were right about the white fittings with the black blocks. I had my doubts when I saw previous pics but now that it is in the case...WOW! The fittings and blocks look sweet together; though my gut says the solid copper blocks will be truly amazing.

As for this set up I really like the crystal link, in my opinion it just looks a ton better than the tubing. I would also be interesting in seeing the setup with all crimson crystal link, just to see the difference.

Electrocutor was onto something I think with the straight lines idea. Not sure if it would negatively impact the cooling or even be feasible with your sub-loops but if it is manageable it would make the loops look a little more...precise I guess is the word I'm looking for.

Anyway, looking good mate


----------



## JaRi

i am in for tubing, these links makes the whole system looks disturbed(looking for a better word :S ) and i think the tubing will get it to calm down


----------



## jrule2

It all looks to be coming together nicely. I love it.

For me it would be between solid white extenders or the crystal link (with crimson or just white). Too much clear tubing might look a little strange in this build but it could just be me.


----------



## TPE-331

Hey Chris, what is that gurgling noise I hear? Could it be water?







I can't wait until you fill er up with the go go juice.


----------



## davidjames

This is indeed the most expensive rig i have had chance to witness, although only by pictures, so far, those 16 SSDs truly blow me away. Did you consider the tri-monitors setup with a 4Gb video cards? I know that your intention is to use only 1 Dell monitor but considering the name of build "Bid Budget", 3-monitors with Eyefinity or Surround wwould be lovely addition to the build.

Also, with all that watercooling tubes, i would love too see how the awesome blocks on the motherboard are shown.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I can't come up with something that QDC's would help me with. I actually have some. But with blocks on EVERYTHING...I can't come up with anything that I could really do without draining the loop down past the motherboard....even with QDC's. Give me a scenario where they would benefit me. Sell me.


Well apart from the fact that they'll impact flow rates and be ugly they enable you to change parts without draining and disassembling the whole loop. With your current setup if any *one* parts dies it's a pain to replace as you have to drain all the loops and take nearly everything apart. You can't even remove the motherboard tray without some serious work, which really makes a motherboard tray pointless. In addition having QDC's on radiators coupled with quick release side mounts (I'm not sure what the TH10/ped has so this may not be possible) mean that they can easily be removed for cleaning individually. If you run the rads in parallel you don't even have to turn the computer off while you do this - simply unhook the fan power, unscrew the side mount, unplug the QDCs and carry the radiator outside!

My goal with thief is to try and have every part pretty easily replaceable so that the cpu can be swapped without disassembling everything, and that radiators can be taken outside for dusting. I'm still not where I want to be with that but the QDC's really help







For people who upgrade often it can help a lot


----------



## lostmarbles1236

hey cpachris,
I have been subbed to this for a while just wanted to say this is absolutely mental, great job. This summer I will be doing a 2011 build with a custom water loop and I wanted to know your thoughts on the fan on the chipset of the mobo. I see that you are putting it underwater, but I wanted to know if it is really as loud/annoying as people say it is, if so whether or not it is a necessary evil or there is a better way on how to go about it.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostmarbles1236*
> 
> hey cpachris,
> I have been subbed to this for a while just wanted to say this is absolutely mental, great job. This summer I will be doing a 2011 build with a custom water loop and I wanted to know your thoughts on the fan on the chipset of the mobo. I see that you are putting it underwater, but I wanted to know if it is really as loud/annoying as people say it is, if so whether or not it is a necessary evil or there is a better way on how to go about it.


I own the ASRock Extreme 7 X79 board and my X-Fan is beyond annoying! The thing can get up to 6500 RPM if I remember correctly. I have been working with MIPs to get a block made for my board. The X-Fan on the Extreme 11 is even worse because it has several chips to cool so I assume it is on almost all the time. The only time mine comes on is if I'm gaming, watching a video, rendering, or doing intensive tasks. It stays off when I'm just browsing the web.

Hope that helped!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wthenshaw

Great work, and outstanding dedication to this build!

I have a request, in fact make that two.

When this build is finished would you add up the prices of everything in this build and show us all the grand total?

And also, submit this build to milliondollarpc? (http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/) It would be a great addition to the website!


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Simply beautiful. That board looks like candy!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> OCN should pay chris since he makes people create an account in the forums


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> I don't know about that, he does have a tremendous amount of first time posters, but I don't know if it warrants a salary. What would be nice would be to have a stat tallying how many first time posters your threads have.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> it was a joke. im sure they wont pay him


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Sorry for the off-topic, but from what I am reading sometimes the opposite is true, off course this is just the one side of the story so I'll take it with a pinch of salt.
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?282245-Stren-s-2012-CPU-Water-Block-Roundup&p=5149491&viewfull=1#post5149491


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> The post in that link is referring to users having to pay OCN for uploading sponsored reviews/content, not OCN paying users.


Imagine the line for job applicants....if they started paying us to post on OCN.







I'd settle for just a few less uptight admins...enforcing rules that hurt content in the community. Way too much of that lately. Seems to be pushing out the individuals who really add unique and original content, especially with testing. But...I digress.....

Speaking of first time posters.......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tr4il*
> 
> I just cannot find the words to describe this! It would probably be somthing like [insertbadwordshere] !!! Just awesome! Took me like a week to get through the whole buildlog, and you're not even finished yet!


First time poster! Welcome Tr4il! It does take awhile to catch up with this log if you're starting now. But glad to have you...and I hope OCN treats you well!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidjames*
> 
> This is indeed the most expensive rig i have had chance to witness, although only by pictures, so far, those 16 SSDs truly blow me away. Did you consider the tri-monitors setup with a 4Gb video cards? I know that your intention is to use only 1 Dell monitor but considering the name of build "Bid Budget", 3-monitors with Eyefinity or Surround wwould be lovely addition to the build.
> Also, with all that watercooling tubes, i would love too see how the awesome blocks on the motherboard are shown.


First time poster! Welcome davidjames! Yeah...I've ended up spending a lot of $$$'s on this project....but it's given me something fun to work on the last 6 months. Whoops...guess its almost 7 now. Need to finish this thing! I don't really game on computers...so the tri-monitor setup wouldn't make a lot of sense for me. I'll upgrade the monitor to a 30 inch 2560 x 1600 monitor...and add in one of the Wacom Cintiq's as a second display. This will probably sound lame to most....but I prefer console gaming on a 70 inch TV.









Some of my favorite comments from last set of studio pictures of the board with all the blocks on it....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I need to go change my pants now... wow!
> Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Great looking updates Chris. Seems like we might see a complete system sometime in the near future


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4V3N*
> 
> The blocks are looking fantastic, by the way. Anyway, looking great, can't wait to see it all plumbed up


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Katcilla*
> 
> I don't think I've ever seen so much waterblock bling on one board...Awesome stuff as always Chris!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Took the picture right out of my mind.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Mother of god


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Wow this is amazing. I am a little late to the party but it's hard not to sub to something so amazing. Really nice work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Wow. Simply wow. Oh, and did I mention, wow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BorisTheSpider*
> 
> Looking very good. I'm looking forward to seeing it in the case - the colour schemes should complement nicely.
> No backplates? The electronics look nice, just curious.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> that looks very good!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> Wow...love the studios pictures! Black and copper blocks look fantastic. Things that makes you go hmmm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep it up!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Pure insanity, copper never looked so drop dead gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be wearing a depends before I come back hear to see your insane job and creativity!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Love all the copper bling. Stunning. Everything coming together so nice!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Yummmmmm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The LAN Man*
> 
> this thing looks incredible can't wait till it's finished


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Simply beautiful. That board looks like candy!


Thanks guys! The studio pictures are fun to do...and you all make a fantastically receptive audience!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NOCA*
> 
> Do you know if the 690 blocks are compatible with the AQ sli bridge system? And if they are, are you planning on using it? I really think the acetal bridge would go well with the acetal on the mips blocks


I'm not sure if they are compatible or not....but I've never been a fan of the bridges. To me they seem kind of large and clunky. But yes...they would probably match the blocks well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Now that I can see these pictures on my computer instead of my phone, holy cow.... that board is just beautiful. Not to mention expensive! Hah! That's like what, over three grand right there in that picture? Absolutely beautiful.
> Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> 2 grand for gpus, 1 grand for cpu, another grand for mobo+ram, and 500-800 for blocks i think


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Great work, and outstanding dedication to this build! When this build is finished would you add up the prices of everything in this build and show us all the grand total? And also, submit this build to milliondollarpc? (http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/) It would be a great addition to the website!


Well, when all 64gb of memory is installed, along with the raid card, and all of the white bitspower fittings, ...this fully decked out motherboard cost a pretty penny. I'll tell you the same thing I tell everyone who asks me how much I've spent. By the end of this build, I will have spent about......drumroll.....7 months doing something I love.







I love the milliondollarpc builds....but Nils likes for your build log to be exclusive to his community for serious consideration. Plus..he may not like the fact that I dyed his MDPC-X sleeving.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Sounds like you'd best get that guy mounted on your tech station so you don't torque the PCB to death when moving it around.
> That is a seriously beautiful setup. If you'd like to bounce any plumbing ideas around, I'd be happy to drop some ideas and feedback.


It's mounted now! And I'll continue to absorb your plumbing comments. They are all appreciated.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MilesIsted*
> 
> Awesome Chris ? Are you getting any backplates, and are you installing the second set of RAM?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Absolutely stunning gear!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is needed now is a couple of finely machined solid copper backplates to accent the 690s.


Mileslsted.....still undecided on backplates. I'm diggin' the look of the PCB. TPE-331.....copper backplates, huh? Perhaps I could get dwood to make me some aluminum ones with some cutouts for each year OU has won a national championship. Then have them copper plated, ...and mount them on some glowing white acrylic so the cut-outs pop. Yes....will have to think about that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Hey Chris, what is that gurgling noise I hear? Could it be water?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait until you fill er up with the go go juice.


Yep....we are either getting real close to going under water......or.....my stomach is rebelling from the Christmas day egg-drop soup we made. Not sure which.









More soon....I'm tinkering with revised plumbing layout right now based on some comments from GingerJohn and Electrocutor.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostmarbles1236*
> 
> hey cpachris,
> I have been subbed to this for a while just wanted to say this is absolutely mental, great job. This summer I will be doing a 2011 build with a custom water loop and I wanted to know your thoughts on the fan on the chipset of the mobo. I see that you are putting it underwater, but I wanted to know if it is really as loud/annoying as people say it is, if so whether or not it is a necessary evil or there is a better way on how to go about it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I own the ASRock Extreme 7 X79 board and my X-Fan is beyond annoying! The thing can get up to 6500 RPM if I remember correctly. I have been working with MIPs to get a block made for my board. The X-Fan on the Extreme 11 is even worse because it has several chips to cool so I assume it is on almost all the time. The only time mine comes on is if I'm gaming, watching a video, rendering, or doing intensive tasks. It stays off when I'm just browsing the web.
> Hope that helped!
> Jeffinslaw


Hey lostmarbles....on a loudness scale of 1 to 10....the x-fan on the Extreme11...is an eleven. This one minute clip fully explains this:






Just based on forum comments, I think the Extreme11 chipset fan is louder than other Asrock boards. It's responsible for cooling 4 chips under the heatsink. You can play with settings in the BIOS...but my experience is that you have to be very tolerant of noise to enjoy this board without a waterblock. And I'm not tolerant of noise.


----------



## sandmen04

Ok, mind well to say something too, since I am snooping around since the beginning.
Of course it is as some, the piece is as some, and the distinguish way you put them together is awesome.
The way you share the experience with everybody is awesome, so much generosity here.
Thank You cpachris.
This tread with all the people in it, I think are awesome, stunning.-
Since it looks like you can do make happen every thing you want do ?
Suddenly company makes you the right color fitting, suddenly company make you water block for the right chip set ?
Maybe you can slip a word for us to Intel, about a little driver for raide 0 in 2013 ?
If it's not too much to ask, of course.
Thanks in advance.
Keep on going, you are obviously doing something right.
prosperity, well, etc...
to you and all your family for years to come.

crystal links (with water)

sorry for the spelling.
french frog from québec.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Well apart from the fact that they'll impact flow rates and be ugly they enable you to change parts without draining and disassembling the whole loop. With your current setup if any *one* parts dies it's a pain to replace as you have to drain all the loops and take nearly everything apart. You can't even remove the motherboard tray without some serious work, which really makes a motherboard tray pointless. In addition having QDC's on radiators coupled with quick release side mounts (I'm not sure what the TH10/ped has so this may not be possible) mean that they can easily be removed for cleaning individually. If you run the rads in parallel you don't even have to turn the computer off while you do this - simply unhook the fan power, unscrew the side mount, unplug the QDCs and carry the radiator outside!
> My goal with thief is to try and have every part pretty easily replaceable so that the cpu can be swapped without disassembling everything, and that radiators can be taken outside for dusting. I'm still not where I want to be with that but the QDC's really help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For people who upgrade often it can help a lot


Ok. I'm going to play devil's advocate with you and press you for some more info.







I can't think of much I could do without having to drain the loop anyway.

Yes...the QDC's would make it easier to remove the motherboard tray....if you use one for every line coming in or out of the motherboard. That would be either 3 or 4 for me (still working on layout). But lets say I've setup the QDC's and can quickly remove the motherboard tray without draining any of the loop. Once I have it out...seems like I would still have to drain water before I could do anything with it? Right? I can't even swap out memory sticks (because of the blocks) without getting water everywhere. On project thief....do you end up draining the water out of all the board blocks after you've removed the motherboard tray? Or do you drain the system while the tray is still inside the build....just to where it's below the motherboard level...and then pull it out?

I guess I can see where they might be useful on the radiators...but with 7 rads...I would need 14 flow destroying QDC's.

I want to see the benefit of these....but I'm just not there.

I may end up using some d-plugs so that I can quickly remove the motherboard tray from the build without having to disassemble anything. But I would still have to drain it at least down below the motherboard for this to be useful. I need to think through where I want my fill port to ensure that filling it backup is painless.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sandmen04*
> 
> Maybe you can slip a word for us to Intel, about a little driver for raide 0 in 2013 ?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1294597/intel-enables-trim-combined-with-raid-0-on-ssds
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hey lostmarbles....on a loudness scale of 1 to 10....the x-fan on the Extreme11...is an eleven. This one minute clip fully explains this:
> Just based on forum comments, I think the Extreme11 chipset fan is louder than other Asrock boards. It's responsible for cooling 4 chips under the heatsink. You can play with settings in the BIOS...but my experience is that you have to be very tolerant of noise to enjoy this board without a waterblock. And I'm not tolerant of noise.


Shush you








Why would someonebuy seven rads, around fifty fans (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaKcESbTx2w would be great for you







)

Edit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=GSllkFWVhJI&feature=fvwp but without the baffle box (hope I spelled it right)

/sarcasm


----------



## lostmarbles1236

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I own the ASRock Extreme 7 X79 board and my X-Fan is beyond annoying! The thing can get up to 6500 RPM if I remember correctly. I have been working with MIPs to get a block made for my board. The X-Fan on the Extreme 11 is even worse because it has several chips to cool so I assume it is on almost all the time. The only time mine comes on is if I'm gaming, watching a video, rendering, or doing intensive tasks. It stays off when I'm just browsing the web.
> Hope that helped!
> Jeffinslaw


It did thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hey lostmarbles....on a loudness scale of 1 to 10....the x-fan on the Extreme11...is an eleven. This one minute clip fully explains this:
> -snip-
> Just based on forum comments, I think the Extreme11 chipset fan is louder than other Asrock boards. It's responsible for cooling 4 chips under the heatsink. You can play with settings in the BIOS...but my experience is that you have to be very tolerant of noise to enjoy this board without a waterblock. And I'm not tolerant of noise.


haha. Point made, thanks.

I have good speakers right now that will be making their way onto the build so I think I may just look into a mobo with a heatspreader.

+reps


----------



## sandmen04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1294597/intel-enables-trim-combined-with-raid-0-on-ssds
> Shush you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why would someonebuy seven rads, around fifty fans (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaKcESbTx2w would be great for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Edit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=GSllkFWVhJI&feature=fvwp but without the baffle box (hope I spelled it right)
> /sarcasm


Intel 7 series chipsets that support RAID, except for X79

X79 i forgot X79


----------



## sandmen04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ok. I'm going to play devil's advocate with you and press you for some more info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't think of much I could do without having to drain the loop anyway.
> Yes...the QDC's would make it easier to remove the motherboard tray....if you use one for every line coming in or out of the motherboard. That would be either 3 or 4 for me (still working on layout). But lets say I've setup the QDC's and can quickly remove the motherboard tray without draining any of the loop. Once I have it out...seems like I would still have to drain water before I could do anything with it? Right? I can't even swap out memory sticks (because of the blocks) without getting water everywhere. On project thief....do you end up draining the water out of all the board blocks after you've removed the motherboard tray? Or do you drain the system while the tray is still inside the build....just to where it's below the motherboard level...and then pull it out?
> I guess I can see where they might be useful on the radiators...but with 7 rads...I would need 14 flow destroying QDC's.
> I want to see the benefit of these....but I'm just not there.
> I may end up using some d-plugs so that I can quickly remove the motherboard tray from the build without having to disassemble anything. But I would still have to drain it at least down below the motherboard for this to be useful. I need to think through where I want my fill port to ensure that filling it backup is painless.


A thick, meabe ?


----------



## seg//fault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sandmen04*
> 
> Intel 7 series chipsets that support RAID, except for X79
> X79 i forgot X79


Asrock and Gigabyte's X79 boards have the new RSTe driver and BIOS updates that support TRIM in RAID 0 for SSDs on X79.

Asus has no official ones, but Nodens on the ROG forums has modded BIOSes for most, if not all, Asus X79 boards here.


----------



## mandrix

Back to the "drain thang",
I have mine setup now with a valve to drain the water blocks and reservoir, and another to drain the radiators or "everything" in my case. I don't see having all the QDC's you would need in your rig.
A few valves, and D plugs could be nice as well just for the sake of quicker disassembly.

But you guys with bigger rigs and mucho pumping power can take a few more liberties with flow-reducing fittings as well, even though I personally don't like QDC's.

With all the "hard 90's" you have I'm curious to see flow rates from different points in the rig. But that will depend on what kind of loops you end up with I guess.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ok. I'm going to play devil's advocate with you and press you for some more info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't think of much I could do without having to drain the loop anyway.
> Yes...the QDC's would make it easier to remove the motherboard tray....if you use one for every line coming in or out of the motherboard. That would be either 3 or 4 for me (still working on layout). But lets say I've setup the QDC's and can quickly remove the motherboard tray without draining any of the loop. Once I have it out...seems like I would still have to drain water before I could do anything with it? Right? I can't even swap out memory sticks (because of the blocks) without getting water everywhere. On project thief....do you end up draining the water out of all the board blocks after you've removed the motherboard tray? Or do you drain the system while the tray is still inside the build....just to where it's below the motherboard level...and then pull it out?
> I guess I can see where they might be useful on the radiators...but with 7 rads...I would need 14 flow destroying QDC's.
> I want to see the benefit of these....but I'm just not there.
> I may end up using some d-plugs so that I can quickly remove the motherboard tray from the build without having to disassemble anything. But I would still have to drain it at least down below the motherboard for this to be useful. I need to think through where I want my fill port to ensure that filling it backup is painless.


Yeah I hear you - it would be a major redesign for you to take advantage of them fully as I think your current loop is just too hectic to take advantage of them. And for 14 of them you'd need to use the VL4N's as they are half the restriction of the VL3Ns. However they are *way* bigger and come in much less useful options. And if you ever drop one from 3ft it will dent and be unusable. Personally I would include a couple at least for easily removing the pedestal and maybe a few other things. It's just going to be such a nightmare to change anything and I dread to think how you'll drain that complicated a loop setup! This is why I'm planning to move to individual loops for each component. With this many rads you can give each loop 1-2 decent radiators and the temps won't be affected much, the flow might even be higher and it's so much easier to maintain. The downside is that the motherboard can look messy with so many loops coming in and out!


----------



## Wibble360

I have to say I could warm to the fittings / links if they were in a straight orientation, will be interested to see what that looks like!

Playing devil's advocate though, here's a pic I found here of some tight tubing - a similar thing might look good in BBBB...?!


----------



## cpachris

Still playing with loop layout....

Here is my revised attempt. Using more straight lines....running the memory blocks in parallel. There are 2 connections into the motherboard (for the 2 subloops) and 2 connections out. All 4 of these are using d-plugs...so the motherboard will be easy to remove....but does have to be drained first.

The real magic with this layout would happen behind the motherboard. Using a series of valves...I could control how much of the initial flow goes to the CPU subloop or the GPU subloop. Also...the CPU subloop has an exit valve that could direct the flow into the GPU subloop or the reservoir. Essentially...just by changing the valves...it could become a completely serial loop....or the two subloops could be utilized with varying amounts of flow being directed to either. It's an Electrocutor concept...I'm just trying to make it work aesthetically.

I'm out of white crystal link fittings and d-plugs....so I've got some silver thrown in there right now. That will disappear for the final layout.

What do you think about this one? I like not having plumbing cross over the top of the video cards into the CPU section. I've played around with using just compression fittings and tubing...and my 3/4 OD tubing just doesn't make tight turns like I would have in my loop. And since I now own 40 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD compression fittings...not sure I want to start over there.













Spoiler: Previous layout


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Still think you should use white compression fittings and crimson tube....























Jeffinslaw


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Still think you should use white compression fittings and crimson tube....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


i second this!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Better but ^^


----------



## freitz

I like it just seems a little busy still.


----------



## Electrocutor

If you want to try addressing everyone's desires for red tubes, you could try to put some puty in the ends of a crystal link and give it your dye bath from your sleeving.

If you want to try to clean up your ins and outs even more, you could check that the flow rate is about the same through a RAM block as your VRM block. If so, you could triple parallel the two RAMs and the VRM without fearing heat build-up since none of those three get especially hot (I would never put the chipset block with less water than 2-parallel, but the VRM is fine). It looks like a straight shot from the right VRM block socket to the 4-way fitting: you'd just have to flip it the other way. It's hard to tell if that would make the CPU in/out too close to get the snakes in there though.


Spoiler: Image


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Using this picture as reference, I'll try to explain how I think you should do the runs.



You have the water enter the mosfet inlet on the left, out the right and into the top RAM inlet on the right, out the bottom and into the right CPU inlet (may need to flip CPU block around), out left on CPU into top inlet on the left RAM block, out bottom RAM block into first graphics card, 90* into inlet on chipset block, out and up into the other GPU.

Sorry if it is kind of confusing...

Jeffinslaw

*EDIT* You have separate loops for the graphics card and CPU...


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Now here's the rub - all these blocks take some tubing.

I'd do this:

Into mosfets, out to CPU, (same as picture)

then:

into both RAM parallel but top inlets, out of the bottom of RAM blocks (bringing them back together), into GPUs in parallel, then recombine into chipset and back behind the motherboard tray on the right.

Only one flow to monitor (I don't know whether aquasuite can alarm on two different flow meters, it probably can anyway) and likely more flow due to more pressure from pumps in series.

But you do seem quite keen on two loops, and I'm sure that will work out very well.


----------



## AaronO

Still open for loop suggestions? If you wanted to do a single loop, you could do it something like this: (note: this would cut out that flow meter at the bottom)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Or, if you still wanna do two loops, how about this for the CPU/Mobo route?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






I may be missing something here though. Let me know what you think or if i need to clarify something about the diagram.
~Aaron


----------



## FabsSpeed

This is a beautiful built! Just got my TH10 and will start builing mine soon,...


----------



## Hattifnatten

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Beutiful







For me, wc-loops are all about simplicity


----------



## Convex

I would have loved to have seen Nateman_doo's water block for the board in there :/


----------



## eskamobob1

not sure how i wasnt sub'd to this before, but i am now


----------



## Whatts

I don't have enough watercooling knowledge to comment on how you should arrange your loop, but I do know it will be difficult to keep a complicated loop like this looking clean. I'm looking forward to the end result though.

On a side note: I just ordered my first CaseLabs (an M8) for my next build, and for a big part I have Chris and this build to thank/blame for that. Although I lack the means, talent and patience on display in this thread, I've gotten plenty of inspiration and will pay more attention to details than I did previously. It's bound to be a bit anticlimactic after all this though


----------



## barracks510

sorta late









but subbed!!! btw, where do you get so many fittings?


----------



## modnoob

So many blocks..... that why and rads and pumps


----------



## conntick

lolwut.


----------



## MetallicAcid

I would like to just say that I have just finished reading through all of the build log for this entire build over the last few nights... Almost a week actually!!

I am now subbed, and am extremely jealous of this build, and in total admiration of your attention to detail and workmanship!

I would just like to say that if there is anyone that deserves a build such as this, it is you sir!


----------



## cpachris

Read this now!.........

....and if you do........

...it means you're not watching the most storied college football program in history play their bowl game. what a loser.







get off the computer and go turn on the tv. OU is in a fight!


----------



## eskamobob1

Lol... Yesterday's game was better


----------



## tjr2121

The best game was South Carolina beating Michigan.

But on a side note, the OU cheerleaders are rather hawt.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjr2121*
> 
> The best game was South Carolina beating Michigan.
> But on a side note, the OU cheerleaders are rather hawt.


I know, dang it I missed that one.
Good news is we (FSU) won. Bad news is we lost Mark Stoops as defensive coordinator....possible good news is Alabama defensive backs coach Jeremy Pruitt is taking his place. Just when our defense got back to the high caliber of days of old....would have been fun to see OK & FSU this year, I think it would have been a much different ending than the last battle....

Clemson/LSU game was good, considering the Clemson QB had to be one tough individual to hang on with the pounding he took....


----------



## Bloitz

My opinion on sports in general:




And yes, that clip is talking about what you guys overseas call soccer that's why I'll leave this here as well:


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Read this now!.........
> ....and if you do........
> ...it means you're not watching the most storied college football program in history play their bowl game. what a loser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> get off the computer and go turn on the tv. OU is in a fight!


How's the hangover from that butt whoopin your team got?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Lol... Yesterday's game was better


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjr2121*
> 
> The best game was South Carolina beating Michigan.
> But on a side note, the OU cheerleaders are rather hawt.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I know, dang it I missed that one. Good news is we (FSU) won. Bad news is we lost Mark Stoops as defensive coordinator....possible good news is Alabama defensive backs coach Jeremy Pruitt is taking his place. Just when our defense got back to the high caliber of days of old....would have been fun to see OK & FSU this year, I think it would have been a much different ending than the last battle....
> Clemson/LSU game was good, considering the Clemson QB had to be one tough individual to hang on with the pounding he took....


Ouch. They really whooped us in the second half. Not fun to watch. Good for your Seminoles, Mandrix! I went down to the OU-FSU game last season, and it was a pretty cool place for a game. My first time there. ESPN was there because it was a big game at the time. Pic of me at the stadium and JennG:




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloitz*
> 
> My opinion on sports in general:
> And yes, that clip is talking about what you guys overseas call soccer that's why I'll leave this here as well:


Don't be a hater, Bloitz!







But it was kind of funny.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> How's the hangover from that butt whoopin your team got?


It hurts! It hurts bad! Bob has lost a high percentage of his bowl games. You have to admire him because he brings the team right to the top every year....but we always under perform in the bowls. You've probably heard it...but:

Q: Why does Bob Stoops eat his cereal on a plate?

A: He can't handle anything in a bowl!

da-dump.


----------



## eskamobob1

Lol.. First time I have rooted for the Seminoles in my life (my dad went to UF)







... I just kinda wanted them to shut up everyone saying the scc isn't as good as people say... It's nice to know one of our middle of the pack teams can destroy another conference champ


----------



## Funwan

2841 Replies


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Funwan*
> 
> 2841 Replies


... And 261,392 views at time of me posting this


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> ... And 261,392 views at time of me posting this


261,393* views, as you clicking on the link to post counted as a view


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Lol.. First time I have rooted for the Seminoles in my life (my dad went to UF)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I just kinda wanted them to shut up everyone saying the scc isn't as good as people say... It's nice to know one of our middle of the pack teams can destroy another conference champ


I live just about the midpoint between Tallahassee (FSU) & Gainesville (UF). Around here we're pretty equally split between the two in terms of team loyalty. My Father was a big UF fan, and I never have been. One of the best times I ever had was watching a FSU/UF game with my Father and my Aunt years ago (she graduated from FSU).
BTW FSU is in the ACC ....and yes ACC doesn't get much love, especially from the TV hacks during game time. .







GO NOLES!

@cpachris
Unless you are already running Aquasuite 2012-6 with no problems, I would stick with 2012-5. -6 was a pita for me and appears to be a major memory soak over time, especially if lots of graphics are displayed in an open window or on the desktop. Daily use no big deal but 24/7 sucks up resources.
Hopefully AC will address these issues when they return from vacation or wherever.


----------



## TPE-331

I haven't watched an FSU game since the Bobby Bowden days. Boy were they an exciting team then. I was hoping to see the Sooners beat up on A&M but, they sure did drop the hot sauce.







I'm keeping my fingers crossed hoping the Seahawks will pull off a victory against the Redskins today. I think this little guy is too.


----------



## vinnybear

Happy New Year all,

Happy to see you are still going at it strong Chris.

Regarding your loops. I run a 3 loop system :

1 loop is MB water block (and soon ram) - 1 pump and rad
1 loop is both GPU - 1 pump and rad
1 loop CPU only - 2 pump and 1 big rad

All loops have a flow meter and the pump flow can be controlled. This lets me adjust the cooling power of each loop.

It all depends how far you wish to push you CPU but personally I wouldnt have the CPU in line with anything.
Same with the GPUs if you will push them (overclock) be very carefull about having something else in the loop with them.
For sure I would never have the CPU and GPUs on the same loop

I'm currenttly looking into probably changing the GPU setup to have a cooler in between so that one card is not heating the other.

Dont make T junction in you cooling loop as the water will choose the path with less resistance to flow and that might not be the one you want. It can also mean the water only goes thru one branch of your T junction.

Keep up the good work and the awesome pics.

Vincent


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> I haven't watched an FSU game since the Bobby Bowden days. Boy were they an exciting team then. I was hoping to see the Sooners beat up on A&M but, they sure did drop the hot sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm keeping my fingers crossed hoping the Seahawks will pull off a victory against the Redskins today. I think this little guy is too.


Jimbo Fisher has done a great job taking over from Bobby. I was sad to see Bobby go and he got a raw deal, but it was time for a change. The defense is now back but with Stoops leaving I dunno what's going to happen....

Looks like you got your wish. RGIII couldn't scramble with that injury and that took out any chance Washington had. I didn't have a dog in that hunt but always pull for East vs Left coast.


----------



## TATH

Hi Chris,

Like your build and buildlog special the mounting of your PA2. I am building a TH10 (buildlog on overclock.net) and are not so skilt as you with the wires but pictures say enough.

Do you have som pictures of the connection from the fans to the PA2's . I have 16 noiseblocker NF-PS fans (4 pins) and want to redo the connections\wiring.

Thanks

Henry Tates (Dutch Fireman)


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinnybear*
> 
> Happy New Year all,
> Happy to see you are still going at it strong Chris.
> Regarding your loops. I run a 3 loop system :
> 1 loop is MB water block (and soon ram) - 1 pump and rad
> 1 loop is both GPU - 1 pump and rad
> 1 loop CPU only - 2 pump and 1 big rad
> All loops have a flow meter and the pump flow can be controlled. This lets me adjust the cooling power of each loop.
> It all depends how far you wish to push you CPU but personally I wouldnt have the CPU in line with anything.
> Same with the GPUs if you will push them (overclock) be very carefull about having something else in the loop with them.
> For sure I would never have the CPU and GPUs on the same loop
> I'm currenttly looking into probably changing the GPU setup to have a cooler in between so that one card is not heating the other.
> Dont make T junction in you cooling loop as the water will choose the path with less resistance to flow and that might not be the one you want. It can also mean the water only goes thru one branch of your T junction.
> Keep up the good work and the awesome pics.
> Vincent


It's been a while since I posted. But, I've been following along. With regards to doing your water cooling loops. I've read up extensively on this subject through multiple online articles before I designed my own setup. I forget where the links are to what I read. But the basic consensus is that you don't need to make separate loops to cool your parts. You can do it all in one loop. If you separate out the loops, you decrease the overall potential heat dissipation you gained by adding in all those extra radiators and fans. As long as you maintain a good flow rate, the temperature of your water won't vary by much in your loop. There is a bit of a difference with serial and parallel loops. You'd want to keep your reservoir/t-line, pump & radiators in done serially all before/after the cooling blocks. But after that part of the loop, from all the reading I've done, I'd recommend using a combined serial/parallel approach. Not sure what's the best way to do it in the BBBB case. You definitely want the most flow going to the CPU. And the GPU's need the second most flow rate and can be connected to each other with a parallel input/output. I use 2 dual-VID tubes to connect each of my GPU's to the other GPU's. But I don't have the MIPS chipset waterblock because I never liked where the input/output ports were for that. You can have the most restrictive flow to the chipset & memory since they don't need to be cooled as much. But that's as far as my knowledge goes conceptually of what I'd do would go. If it was Nate's chipset block instead of the MIPS chipset block where the input/output holes/ports aren't between the GPU's, I'd have my own suggestions for Chris's setup since it would be very similar to my own cooling setup. (Though I only have 2 radiators being cooled by only 7 fans).







I'm still waiting patiently for Nate to finish his and send one to me.

Anyway, I've rambled on enough on this subject. Just putting in my 2 cents.


----------



## cpachris

Here are some pics of an alternate plumbing layout....using compression fittings instead of the crystal link.

But first...many of you had suggested that the run include something from the top VRM block to the top inlet on the memory card on the right. I had tried to suggest in a previous post that I had played with that layout and that it just didn't work....but I either didn't say it clearly enough...or forcefully enough.







Anyway, here are some pictures of what all of the tubing I have does with a bend such as that being proposed. This one is 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD....but I also have thinner wall tubing that does the same thing. There is simply not much room to make the turn:




Using a 90 degree does not help...and in fact makes it worse....because of how long the 90 degree extends. Onward....

Here is what the layout would look like with all compression fittings and no crystal link.



I like the look of it. It's different than the crystal link with lots of fittings. This one looks more "muscular" and "tough", while the fittings with crystal link looks more "creative" and "unique". Not sure which I like best. Let me know if you have any thoughts on what looks better!



Spoiler: Crystal Link - Layout 1









Spoiler: Crystal Link - Layout 2









Spoiler: Compression's and Tubing - Layout 1







Here is what the flow would look like.....blue are the ins....and red are the outs. BUT...many comments have been made about my "two" loops. This is not a dual loop design. Both of these subloops would join together into one run through the radiators. So there is no cooling capacity that is lost. It is one loop...that splits into parallel runs through the CPU subloop and the GPU subloop....before joining back together as one and going through the radiators. And with the use of valves...with just a few twists.....I'll be able to change from a 100% cpu loop flow....to 100% gpu loop flow....to parallel flows in the subloops.....to a completely serial flow from one subloop to the other.



I'm behind on comments...and I'll try and catch back up tonight. I appreciate everyone continuing to post for this long!


----------



## Aximous

I much prefere the look of the compression fitting + tubing version, the crystal links just look too busy, a bit overdone with all the connectors, extenders and god knows what in there







Maybe you could try a mix of both for example the tube run connecting the 2 memory blocks could be crystal link, that would look good I guess.


----------



## freitz

agreed that looks much better


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Tubing looks like the way to go, but it would be nice if some connectors could get out of there.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Oh gawd that tubing! Love it!







Still use crystal link between the GPUs though!

And now I see why you can't run from the VRM block to the RAM block, understandable! Keep it up!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## barracks510

your loops just inspire me!!!







but, still, go crystal link v2


----------



## muffet

I know nothing performance wise of the different choices but as far as aesthetics go, crystal link v1 is the best looking in my opinion.


----------



## muffet

oopsie double post


----------



## socketus

I'm so glad that I don't have any opinion on that loop(s)









I approve


----------



## Whatts

My vote goes to the tubing setup, I think it looks cleaner.

(Yay! My Magnum M8 is being shipped!)


----------



## Addiction

I am a fan of the tubing, too.


----------



## Berzalum

at last i'm on the last page.

someday ill build a rig like this,
with step by step log.
all sleeved and customized.
and use intel stock heatsink for the CPU just to make the whole OCN complains.
and grab popcorn while i re-read the comments.

p.s :
i love your build really,
and there it goes my monthly tissue stock. (damn you porn hardware)
looking forward for your "finished" build


----------



## Berzalum

i'm so sorry for the double post.


----------



## TATH

Hi Chris, Your wiring is great but your tubing su.... piep,

I dont think you leav it the way it is. Mayby you can look at my buildlog for the tubing the way i did.

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1160442/

gr... Henry


----------



## mandrix

I think a gentle mix of tubing and crystal links might work out good, i.e. just a few crystal links.
In the end do whatever makes you happy, at this point you certainly have accumulated enough fittings to change it around as your mood dictates.

I believe I understand better where you are going with the subloops, or maybe circuits would be more appropriate.


----------



## JaRi

you could try heating the tubing up a bit in hot water or something, then you might get it to fit from ram to mosfet


----------



## landwolf00

Hi chris, first post and yes I joined OCN just to receive updates on your log,

I personally love the look of crystal link v2. The straight lines are so nice, and if you can make it work I think there are significantly less staining and plasticide problems with CL over tubing (not to mention that it represents coolant color a lot better than tubing if you are into dyes). Hope to see the finished product sometime soon!


----------



## Wibble360

I actually like crystal link layout 1 now - the three vertical sections of crystal link look neat as they're all in roughly the same orientation. Not sure what tubing you're using with the compression fittings but it looks slightly opaque so I think the crystal links look better in that respect too. Would you be able to do what JaRi said and bend the crystal link to go from RAM to GPU, so you avoid having to use compression fittings / tubing there?

Second choice would be the compression fittings layout, maybe with different tubing eg Tygon? I'm not too familiar with that though

The second crystal link layout looks a bit too busy imo


----------



## csrxg

Would it be possible to put a crystal link between the ram blocks on the tubing layout? just a thought - maybe some wider diameter acrylic tube cut to length to even out the size of the CL compared to the tubing


----------



## pilotter

thanks for letting me read for three days. I have learned a lot from you about sleeving, making a proper harness and the aquacomputer, not to mention the other builds I am pointed to as well.......


----------



## TATH

gentle mix is the word. with the proper amaount off tubing or (make your one crystal links at the right size with acryl\perspex tubing) ant the right fitings like dave wil work out the best for Chris i think. don a great job so far.

i pu a link on the web how my friend makes his one tubing "looks great" its in dutch but if you have any questions just ask and i try to help you

http://forum.highflow.nl/f34/danger-den-double-wide-build-naam-moet-ik-nog-verzinnen-13609/index3.html

gr. Henry:thumb:


----------



## JaRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> gentle mix is the word. with the proper amaount off tubing or (make your one crystal links at the right size with acryl\perspex tubing) ant the right fitings like dave wil work out the best for Chris i think. don a great job so far.
> i pu a link on the web how my friend makes his one tubing "looks great" its in dutch but if you have any questions just ask and i try to help you
> http://forum.highflow.nl/f34/danger-den-double-wide-build-naam-moet-ik-nog-verzinnen-13609/index3.html
> gr. Henry:thumb:


excatly was i were thinking off!









it looks so much better than the crystal links







only between the gfx u should use link IMO


----------



## socketus

@ cpachris - I have a dumb question - what's the reason for not moving your top graphics card down a slot, so that the Mips chipset block can be tubed ABOVE the card ?

or would that repositioning even allow that re-tubing to happen ?


----------



## Lrae Nekram

Heck either of the crystal link set ups are nice. Don't know what it is about the tubing but I think it looks terrible. Compared to the rest of the build which is so clean and clear the droopy, not quite clear tubing looks tacky. Of course that is just my opinion and ultimately the only one that matters is yours Chris.

They v1 crystal link shows off your CPU waterblock the best and v2 makes the loop and other blocks look best. I guess it is a preference thing.

For me Crystal Link v2.


----------



## stren

If we're voting purely on aesthetics then crystal link 1


----------



## Mainsil

Great build, I think the crystal links, in either configuration, just looks more tidy.


----------



## Whatts

I just looked at the link TATH posted and it does look good. Basically you slide a cable in your acrylic tube, then heat the tube and then bend it as desired. As the cable is more or less the same size as the ID of the tube, it keeps the tube from kinking where it's bent. The link is in my first language, so should you need anything translated, no problem.


----------



## TATH

Hi Chris,

A was yesterday reading most off the pages off your buildlog bud i mist a few. I have the same pumps bud dont have the bleu wiring. Its a bit dificult for me to pursage extra pumps becouse i'm in europe.
I read that somone else put a extra wire in the pump to controle them. Is it posible for you to give me a mailadres from that person so i can ask him if i can get a picture how to do this myself.

I have the Aquero and the poweradjuster to and redowing the wires this week.

gr.. Henry \ TATH


----------



## jackofhearts495

Compressions + Tubing.


----------



## barkinos98

i vote for the layout 1 of crystal link, it shows more of that copper awesomeness+ you dont have to deal with much of that kink issues. also, if were you, i would change all the ends to the red one, in like the one you did for ram-chipset or between the gpus, that red accents it VERY well.

also, any word on illumination? some high quality white leds would suit this build awesomely, sleek but luminous


----------



## stl drifter

Hello Tath. I have been thinking about getting those exact rad's. How is your friend liking them ?


----------



## vinnybear

Hi,

You may be able to find bended clear tubes from the aquarium world but not sure what kind of thread sizes they have on those.

dont forget though that once you will have colored liquid thru them it will look very different

below is a picture from l3p and his watercooled desk. He uses straight pipes and connector and I like the look



link here for the build : http://redharbinger.com/forums/useralbums/l3p-d3sk.28/view


----------



## Dehatitated

I don't have much time right now to look at all of it, but when I read the title the first thing that popped into my mind was, thank goodness there is no comma. (The Big, Budget Boomer Box)







I have nothing against budget builds as I don't have that much money myself, but when you have money you can usually make it that bit more awesome.

The crimson looks really good.


----------



## TATH

Hi drifter,

The have no comment on them. I got them after i read a test. The cost in holland 132 euro each. XSPC RX 480.
got good comment's on my build.


----------



## Dehatitated

Edit: oh wow it posted the same post because I was losing my Internet connection for quite awhile.


----------



## Joa3d43

subbed !


----------



## stl drifter

subbed.!!!


----------



## stl drifter

I also vote for the crystal link version 1


----------



## cpachris

Tore down everything so I could do my final drilling and cutting on the case. Pictures of the addition of a fillport below:

First....I taped off the area where I was going to cut...and then drew my circle:





Then with a small diameter drill bit, I drilled some holes all around the edges of the circle. The hole needed to be about 3/4 inch diameter, and I don't have a drill bit that large. So....starting with smaller holes that will allow me to get my jig saw in there:



Then I took my jig saw and went around the edge.



It's a little jagged around the edge in the above picture....but because the top piece of the Bitspower fitting has a lip that covers the cut edge...it ends up looking perfect once the fitting is installed. Perfect.



I'm going to connect a tube from one of my reservoirs and run it up to the top to this fill port. Then, I'll be able to add or top-off my coolant without even getting inside the case at all. The two reservoirs will have fittings connecting them at the top.....so that once one reservoir is completely full it will start dumping water into the second reservoir. Should work nicely.



More cutting pictures on the way......


----------



## cpachris

Using the same method as I used on the fillport pictures I just posted, I also installed two of the pass through fittings on the pedestal in the front:



On the back of the pedestal, I had already drilled some holes and threaded all my power connections up through a hole like so. More info on this process can be found in this post.



Now....to make these connection work correctly...I need to be able to access them from the main case. So...I need some cutouts inside the main case. I flipped the case upside down, so that its sitting on its top. Then I taped off the area I would be cutting. There is a strip of aluminum on both ends of the case that sits down flush on the pedestal ends where I had installed my pass through connections.



A little jig saw action, and......Voila! One down...and one to go. Now I need one in the rear of the case.



...and voila dos. french and spanish together????



anyway...here comes the magic. First...here is a shot of the entire pedestal. You can see the two Bitspower pass through fittings on the front left top, and all of the power pass through connections on the rear right top. At this point...the pedestal is completely self contained and entirely modular. You connect your loop to one of these two Bitspower connections in the front....and it feeds to the dual pump and all 3 radiators, before coming back to you in the other connection. In the rear of the pedestal, all 24 fans and two pumps, have their power harness connections coming up in this spot. To power everything...you just plug in here.



With the main case cutouts that I just made....I can take the main case compartment and simply sit it down right on top of the pedestal....and all of the connections to/from the pedestal are available from within the main case! No extra long wiring/tubing....No balancing the main case on the pedestal sideways....No fuss. Just sit it down on top, and attach.



Closeup on the power passthrough fittings....easily accessible from within the main case.



....turn the case around to see the Bitspower pass-throughs.....



....and a close-up of these. Easily accessible from within the main case.



Only CaseLabs pedestal owners who have had the "joy" of getting the pedestal plumbing and wiring done will appreciate this method as much as I do. CaseLabs sells some plates with holes in them that can assist with this process...but the plates with holes are attached on the main case floor. So....you have to make your plumbing connections in the pedestal first, and use a real long piece of tubing/wiring....and then thread it UP through the hole while either holding the main case off the floor or balancing it on top of the pedestal turned sideways. You can't just sit the main case down on the pedestal because then access to the pedestal is blocked. And as awkward as it is getting the connection done the first time with the long tubing/wiring....it becomes even more difficult or impossible to reconnect if you ever have to take the main case off the pedestal after initial installation. Especially with short connections that don't have much tubing inside the main case.

These cutouts make the pedestal completely self contained and entirely modular. Disconnecting it from the main case is super easy and can be done from within the main compartment of the case. I hope that CaseLabs will consider making these cutouts standard on the Magnum series when they do a refresh. It just makes things simpler.


----------



## cpachris

While I had the pedestal upstairs with the lights, I decided to take some more studio shots of it before it gets covered by the main case for awhile. And remember...she is not dating until she's 16.





















With the wiring for 24 fans and 2 pumps all down in the pedestal, it would have been easy to let it get real messy. But it still looks very clean. You can barely see most of the wiring since I ran it underneath the bottom of the radiators.











No one is going to get to see the powder coating of the flow meter face plate, and copper plating of the screws after,..... I put the main case on! But I'll know it's there.











Since I had updated the final fittings layout in the pedestal, I wanted to do some more leak testing before getting the main case bolted on. These shots also show how beautifully modular the pedestal really is. All I had to do was screw on a reservoir to one pass-through fitting, and then connect a tube from the other pass-through back to the reservoir. It's a complete self-contained loop down in the pedestal, complete with pumps. I ran this overnight....no leaks. I'm in good shape. Moving on.....


----------



## socketus

_*A Fury of Fotos !!*_

yah, this phrase - "While I had the pedestal upstairs with the lights" - put me in mind of The Seeds' 14 minute epic - Up In Her Room.
That has got to be quite the aerobic exercise lugging those pieces up the stairs for a foto shoot = WIN-WIN !


----------



## csrxg

Are you going to have OU crimson faceplates for the disk drive and card reader?


----------



## FannBlade

WOW! Nough said.


----------



## cpachris

Drilled another hole to pass some crystal link between the top two radiators, and added some rubber molding around the sides of the cut. I want to keep the possibility of using another hard drive cage in the top of the PSU side, and to keep it clear the connection between the two top radiators must pass straight through....not come down and out to the existing cut-out. This is another area where I think CaseLabs should provide this cutout standard if they do a refresh on the Magnum line. Almost anyone who is using two top radiators....would want to pass something through the middle here.



I also received another package yesterday with some additional fittings I wanted to try for my next iteration of the loop. Some more red accents (Q blocks, crystal link fittings, and dplugs), as well as some more white couplers and a different style of 90 degree connector. In the picture below, you can see the difference between the triple rotary 90 degrees I've been using (bottom) and the short stubby 90 degree fittings that I got in this package (top). I had been avoiding using these because they look like they would be more restrictive than the snake style 90 degree fittings. But....since they extend out a much shorter distance than the snake style....I may have some additional options when trying to make connections on the motherboard. Many members suggested a VRM block to Memory block connection....and I simply couldn't make it happen with the snake style rotaries. These....may give me enough additional room to make it happen.



Still don't know if I'll like that option....but having options never hurts.


----------



## barracks510

Decided on which ayput yet?? Btw, the stubby ninetys look sexy!!!
Edit. Meant to write layout instead of ayput. Apple spell check.....sigh


----------



## Electrocutor

I still disagree with sandwiching the radiators, but it's looking pretty good. I suspect you're getting to the point where the little kid inside you keeps asking if it's done yet.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Is the fillport screwed in or is it just sitting there?


----------



## Whatts

Chris, your pedestal flow meter isn't wired up yet, or am I missing something?


----------



## mandrix

Nice work. I still don't understand why you didn't buy a bi metal hole saw for your drill instead of hassling with the jigsaw for round holes







But the job is done and that's what matters.

Yes I definitely understand the pedestal connections. That's why from the start I ran mine through the fan hole covers in the bottom. Take the connections loose, pop 4 screws to drop the covers and done.
With your case you have more options and I think you made good use of appropriate areas to make your cuts.

If you have never used other pass through connectors than the Bitspower ones, then rest assured you made a good choice. I like them better both from a functional and looks standpoint than several other brands I've tried on several builds.


----------



## TATH

I like the bitspower stuff. but keep in mind that sometime you will\ disconnect the pedestal and then i might be usefall to use a koolance disconect.


----------



## cpachris

Here I'm mounting the two individual D5's. Since my current idea uses them in serial....I really could have made my life a little easier by buying another dual pump top....like I'm using in the pedestal. I've connected the two together with fittings....and should operate the same way.

First...turned the case on its side to access and remove the bottom panel.



Drilled holes in the bottom panel for pump mounting.....



Mounted the pumps on top of some foam strips. It's kind of like a shoggy sandwhich....but these are made from Phyobya...and are much prettier. No orange in this build.







Then I tied the two pumps together with fittings.



Mounted the bottom panel back in the case.



Getting closer!


----------



## Systemlord

You better stop now or else your build will be closer to being complete, this has been a joy to watch you build!


----------



## cpachris

Was up against a deadline for the CaseLabs best build contest...and needed some photos. I had completely torn down everything for some drilling/cutting.....but I threw it all together again last night for some pictures. The loop is not done yet....but getting close. The link for the contest is not up yet, but once it is, I'll plead for your vote several times over the next few days.


----------



## wthenshaw

you shall beg. and you shall receive.


----------



## MetallicAcid

You do not need to beg mate. It's just going to happen.


----------



## JennG

YEA!! I finally got to see it all together!


----------



## cpachris

The voting is now open for the CaseLabs build contest. There are 4 very worthy builds that were nominated. I haven't gotten to finish up the lighting (light panel and and LED strip lighting), and I'm still tweaking the loop layout. I know it may be difficult to vote for an unfinished build....but if you have enjoyed my build log thus far, or it has inspired you or given you some ideas for your own build....I humbly ask for your consideration. You can vote simply by posting the name of the build you want to vote for in this thread. Follow that link and post the name of the build you are voting for.

I know it has taken me a long time to get this far, but I've been taking my time to enjoy it along the way. Summary of components:

- 50+ fans
- 7 radiators
- 4 pumps
- 100+ Bitspower white fitting pieces
- 16 Vertex 4 SSD's
- 3960x
- quad SLI with 2x GTX 690's
- 64GB of memory
- Areca raid card
- 2x Aquaero 5's
- 2x PSU's
- Asrock Extreme11
- water blocks on everything

Just takes 30 seconds to vote.....do it now.


----------



## wthenshaw

you have my vote


----------



## carmas

just voted for you


----------



## forumaddict

voted for you over in the other thread dude. amazing job.


----------



## meeps

voted


----------



## Whatts

Added my vote.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Was up against a deadline for the CaseLabs best build contest...and needed some photos. I had completely torn down everything for some drilling/cutting.....but I threw it all together again last night for some pictures. The loop is not done yet....but getting close. The link for the contest is not up yet, but once it is, I'll plead for your vote several times over the next few days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


From post 2905 - omg, can it be that high ?

Is it me, or is the case's crimson changing shades up and down ?
! Oh for a professionally lit studio ;(

Still its quite the imposing hulk - sorta like an OU football player









Now that 2nd tower pic is more uniform ... but that 3rd pic - I'm calling Photoshop wizardry !!
Good idea combining several pix into 1 overall pic.
Nice, you should put the 1 shot with the 5 copper blocks as a standalone and see if one of those
companies comes calling for an endorsement









ahh.. first time I've seen the helmet placed. And you're keeping that loop component ? Tubing is
very strong looking, consistent on the fittings, great choice ! KISS !

Luv that twin res tower shot, groovy









How many ssds can you link thru power ? wow !

And I gotta ask since you replied to my question about home-made foto studios ...
How BIG is that sheet ? I mean, thats gotta be a double king ! no ?


----------



## zerocool135

Just voted, chris, your build is one of the main reasons i joined, hopefully someday i can do a build a fraction of how awesome yours is, good luck, keep building. I want to see it completed.


----------



## Vvt1978

Just voted for you!


----------



## sandmen04

You got my vote
Great work.


----------



## Citra

This build stands out from the rest with its sheer attention to design as well as parts.


----------



## soth

Voted for your build









Great work as always Chris,

Just a small question for you, do the impellers in the mechanical aqua computer flow meter(s) make considerable noise or have they improved the design?

In my previous build they would start to click after a few weeks of use and after RMA'ing two of them I gave up and went with the MPS400 (the new model).

I would have preferred the mechanical one from your build as it doesn't require power via USB or aquabus to operate.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> you have my vote


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> just voted for you


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *forumaddict*
> 
> voted for you over in the other thread dude. amazing job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meeps*
> 
> voted


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Added my vote.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocool135*
> 
> Just voted, chris, your build is one of the main reasons i joined, hopefully someday i can do a build a fraction of how awesome yours is, good luck, keep building. I want to see it completed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> Just voted for you!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sandmen04*
> 
> You got my vote
> Great work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> This build stands out from the rest with its sheer attention to design as well as parts.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soth*
> 
> Voted for your build


Thanks guys! All four nominations are incredibly deserving, so I appreciate your support. The BBBB is in the lead right now, but it's very early in the voting. Six more days to vote!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soth*
> 
> Just a small question for you, do the impellers in the mechanical aqua computer flow meter(s) make considerable noise or have they improved the design?
> 
> In my previous build they would start to click after a few weeks of use and after RMA'ing two of them I gave up and went with the MPS400 (the new model).
> 
> I would have preferred the mechanical one from your build as it doesn't require power via USB or aquabus to operate.


It's still clicking. I was told by some members that the clicking faded or went away in their builds after running for a certain amount of time. The clicking might have diminished in volume a little bit during this last test.....but I could still hear it. Truth be told...it really isn't that loud....but since I was going for a super quiet build....it's annoying that I can hear it at all. It's quiet enough where I might not be able to hear it with the doors shut. Not sure yet. I'll move to the MPS version if it still bothers me after a few months.

Also...I've only had the pump running for less than 48 hours total...so it still might quiet down more like it has for others. Any gripes about the MPS version other than the power requirement?


----------



## Pidoma

Just voted! GO CHRIS!


----------



## soth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> vote!
> It's still clicking. I was told by some members that the clicking faded or went away in their builds after running for a certain amount of time. The clicking might have diminished in volume a little bit during this last test.....but I could still hear it. Truth be told...it really isn't that loud....but since I was going for a super quiet build....it's annoying that I can hear it at all. It's quiet enough where I might not be able to hear it with the doors shut. Not sure yet. I'll move to the MPS version if it still bothers me after a few months.
> 
> Also...I've only had the pump running for less than 48 hours total...so it still might quiet down more like it has for others. Any gripes about the MPS version other than the power requirement?


I really do hope the clicking noise reduces over a longer period,

I read somewhere (I'm hunting around at the moment for the thread) that if you shave 1mm from the impeller it stops the noise from occurring without interfering with the flow readout.

If you do decide to swap over to the MPS version , I can absolutely recommend them as both of mine have been running for a week and are completely silent.


----------



## dtien87

Vote for you and for ASRock Mainboard. It's too beatiful after mod


----------



## TPE-331

BBBB just got my vote. Man I tell ya Chris, you, Mandrix and Seanimus are rocking the CaseLabs seen right now. Keep up the good work!


----------



## cpachris

I've continued to tweak the plumbing layout, and have another version that I'm fairly fond of. Many of you preferred the tubing/compression look...and I apologize to you in advance.







I think I prefer the crystal link look to the tubing. I know its not for everyone...but it works for me.

But...there were several good suggestions made on layout previously by members...and I've made some changes:

- Got the short stubby 90 degree fittings which allow me to do the VRM to RAM connection that LOTS of people said I should consider.
- Got more of the red crystal link fittings....but got them in the mini version.
- Running the GPU's parallel with some fun red Q-blocks

Not sure if I'm done with the layout yet or not...but I'm getting closer. This one look so much cleaner to me than the previous versions. The VRM to RAM connection keeps the middle of the board and the CPU more visible and looks much better.







All 4 connections in/out of the motherboard have a red d-plug on them also....so I can quickly disconnect the connections and remove the motherboard tray. I would have to drain the system first....but in reality....I would have to drain the system to do almost anything with the motherboard tray anyway. And the drain works well....and the fillport should allow me quick fill-ups. So....I'm going to stay away from the Koolance quick disconnects...mainly because I don't like how they look. The d-plugs are just as functional....as long as I'm willing to drain the system down below board level before pulling the motherboard tray out.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Now that, looks sharp. I love the way it follow the X of the block.

Even for crystal link. It looks really good.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Okay, now we are getting there! I really like the upper half (CPU/VRMs/RAM) but the second half just still isn't there yet IMHO. I guess it is the chipset block that is throwing everything off. Have you tried moving cards around so that you don't need to do fancy runs like that to the chipset block?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Systemlord

You easily got my vote, I would be extremely surprised if you didn't win! I love the red T fitting and other red accents around the crystal links, I always liked the crystal links over the tubing!


----------



## Whatts

Hmmm, I first voted for tubing, but I have to reconsider now. This is the cleanest looking layout yet.


----------



## riis96

please keep it this way


----------



## Wibble360

Layout looks awesome now. Really, really nice. Like nvidiaftw12 said, the "X" pattern at the top is cool and IMO it's better to show a few bitspower fittings running alongside the front edge of the GFX cards than to alter the cleanliness of the main mobo loops to run something from there down to the chipset.

I'm all over this one ;-)


----------



## vinnybear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


I like that setup, looks nice and tidy and seperates the CPU from the GPU cooling loop









is it not possible for you to run a setup like this for the gpus as right now you have 2 T-junctions ?


----------



## mandrix

I don't think you have to worry about the contest. I think I have like two votes.









But the flow meter.....mine don't make any noise that I've noticed. Some have said laying them horizontal will make the clicking go away. I have one vertical and one horizontal and they work fine either way or either direction of flow, btw.
I have tinnitus really bad since 1971 and there are some things I just don't hear, and some frequencies that I'm hyper-tuned to.
I guess I'm saying I'm not always the best judge of "loud", but with the case sitting right next to me I don't hear the flow meters.


----------



## TATH

Hi Chris,

i have seen that you changed your pumps (ad a whire) . I choose te easy way because there arent many people over here ho mod their pumps. because you ran a Aquero to you whoot like these pumps









http://highflow.nl/pompen/aqua-computer/aqua-computer-d5-pump-mechnics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface-41093.html

Henry


----------



## sunfish31831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


In my opinion this CPU/VRM/RAM loop layout is the best you've had. The crimson accents work well without making it look too busy. The stubby 90s clean it up a bit. However I think the GPU loop looks a bit off. vinnybear has a pretty good solution for serial. If you really want to run the GPUs in parallel though you probably have the best solution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinnybear*
> 
> I like that setup, looks nice and tidy and seperates the CPU from the GPU cooling loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it not possible for you to run a setup like this for the gpus as right now you have 2 T-junctions ?


^ this with crystal link and the crimson crystal link fittings. maybe a crimson spacer on the right where it enters the bottom GPU and leaves the top GPU just to keep things consistant


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've continued to tweak the plumbing layout, and have another version that I'm fairly fond of. Many of you preferred the tubing/compression look...and I apologize to you in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I prefer the crystal link look to the tubing. I know its not for everyone...but it works for me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> But...there were several good suggestions made on layout previously by members...and I've made some changes:
> 
> - Got the short stubby 90 degree fittings which allow me to do the VRM to RAM connection that LOTS of people said I should consider.
> - Got more of the red crystal link fittings....but got them in the mini version.
> - Running the GPU's parallel with some fun red Q-blocks
> 
> Not sure if I'm done with the layout yet or not...but I'm getting closer. This one look so much cleaner to me than the previous versions. The VRM to RAM connection keeps the middle of the board and the CPU more visible and looks much better.


By Jove, I do believe you've cracked it!

The CPU area looks great, I would leave that as is.

The GPU - mobo connection looks a little heavy on the white fittings. Have you tried swapping the position of the crystal link and the snake connector? That might help to break up that long run of white fittings a bit.

And maybe slip a crystal link in between the two reservoirs (third picture, top right) to help break up that big chunk of white fittings. Unless the fittings are providing support for the res of course.

I bet all this effort to get a nice plumbing solution makes you doubly glad that you didn't go for a dual CPU build.


----------



## wthenshaw

cpachris you should put some red sleeving round that sli bridge


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Does the helmet contribute towards performance?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Now that, looks sharp. I love the way it follow the X of the block. Even for crystal link. It looks really good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> You easily got my vote, I would be extremely surprised if you didn't win! I love the red T fitting and other red accents around the crystal links, I always liked the crystal links over the tubing!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Hmmm, I first voted for tubing, but I have to reconsider now. This is the cleanest looking layout yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Okay, now we are getting there! I really like the upper half (CPU/VRMs/RAM).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riis96*
> 
> please keep it this way


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> Layout looks awesome now. Really, really nice. Like nvidiaftw12 said, the "X" pattern at the top is cool and IMO it's better to show a few bitspower fittings running alongside the front edge of the GFX cards than to alter the cleanliness of the main mobo loops to run something from there down to the chipset. I'm all over this one ;-)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinnybear*
> 
> I like that setup, looks nice and tidy and seperates the CPU from the GPU cooling loop


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> By Jove, I do believe you've cracked it! The CPU area looks great, I would leave that as is.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunfish31831*
> 
> In my opinion this CPU/VRM/RAM loop layout is the best you've had. The crimson accents work well without making it look too busy. The stubby 90s clean it up a bit.


Thanks guys! I'm getting there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> The second half just still isn't there yet IMHO. I guess it is the chipset block that is throwing everything off. Have you tried moving cards around so that you don't need to do fancy runs like that to the chipset block?


It's not as clean as the top 1/2.....I agree. But yes...the cards and placement of the chipset inlets/outlets create some difficulties. The two video cards need to be in either slot 1, 3, 5 or 7 to get 16x lanes. Putting either card in slot 7 would make it VERY difficult to mess with connections (front panel, USB, molex power, etc.), and would also block the Dr. Debug readout. Slot 7 is best left for a card that is not full length. So....the graphics cards need to go in 1, 3 or 5. Right now, they are in 1 and 5. If I move the top graphics card down to slot 3....it eliminates having the chipset inlets between the two graphics card. But...it would kick the raid card up to Slot 1....and I'd be dealing with the same issue. Plus....the top of the graphics card is more attractive than the top of the raid card...so I like it more in slot 1. Let me know if you can think of any other options. Once nateman_doo gets his cards done...I'll have some other options. But then I may have to change the top 1/2 of the layout also!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinnybear*
> 
> is it not possible for you to run a setup like this for the gpus as right now you have 2 T-junctions ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunfish31831*
> 
> vinnybear has a pretty good solution for serial. If you really want to run the GPUs in parallel though you probably have the best solution
> ^ this with crystal link and the crimson crystal link fittings. maybe a crimson spacer on the right where it enters the bottom GPU and leaves the top GPU just to keep things consistant


Yes...I had it like that in one of the previous versions. If I want to run serial on the GPU's....I'll do something like the above. But I want to try running parallel first and see what kind of flow I get.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> The GPU - mobo connection looks a little heavy on the white fittings. Have you tried swapping the position of the crystal link and the snake connector? That might help to break up that long run of white fittings a bit. And maybe slip a crystal link in between the two reservoirs (third picture, top right) to help break up that big chunk of white fittings. Unless the fittings are providing support for the res of course.
> 
> I bet all this effort to get a nice plumbing solution makes you doubly glad that you didn't go for a dual CPU build.


The fittings are not providing any support...and I think the crystal link between the reservoirs sounds like a good idea. Will try it. The only reason it may not look good is it would be right next to some tubing. The tubing is 3/4 OD and makes the crystal link look tiny when they are beside each other. I'll try it and post a picture.

Dual CPU's would have been challenging.....but fun! If there is ever a decent dual socket board and fully over clockable CPU's that will work with them....I'll move to that setup in a heart beat.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> cpachris you should put some red sleeving round that sli bridge


That sounds cool. It needs something, doesn't it? Thanks for the idea. I'll play with either sleeving it or using some carbon fiber wrap on it. I've seen the carbon fiber wrap done before and thought it looked pretty cool.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Does the helmet contribute towards performance?


Ha! Yes. Anything colored crimson or with an OU logo on it increases performance.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> But the flow meter.....mine don't make any noise that I've noticed. Some have said laying them horizontal will make the clicking go away. I have one vertical and one horizontal and they work fine either way or either direction of flow, btw.
> I have tinnitus really bad since 1971 and there are some things I just don't hear, and some frequencies that I'm hyper-tuned to.
> I guess I'm saying I'm not always the best judge of "loud", but with the case sitting right next to me I don't hear the flow meters.


I guess we don't really know what we can't hear....huh? I think that I'm pretty sensitive to most sounds....but who really knows, right? I can tell you that the clicking of harddrives in my antec 1200 build drives my crazy. That's the main reason for the SSD's. Since I'll have 3 different flow meters in the final layout....I guess I'll be able to see if all 3 make the same sound. If so....probably not much I can do about it. If only one of them is a clicker...I'll take that one apart and tinker.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Hi Chris,
> i have seen that you changed your pumps (ad a whire) . I choose te easy way because there arent many people over here ho mod their pumps. because you ran a Aquero to you whoot like these pumps


The functionality of the Aquacomputer pumps is pretty cool. But...since they included a bunch of connections on the back...it eliminates being able to use the dress-up kits I'm using on my D5's. So by running the pump power cable to a PA2, ...I get the same functionality of the AQ pumps,...but in a more visually pleasing package. But...the AQ pump is cheaper than a normal D5 + PA2 combination.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

So the 7th slot is not 16x speed? Because if it was, then the most logical way to place cards in would be GPU in slot 3, GPU in slot 5, RAID card in slot 7. How come the bottom one isn't 16x?

Jeffinslaw

*EDIT* According to Newegg, if you have slots 1, 3, 5, and 7 occupied, they will all run at 16x speed. So why couldn't you try your RAID card in slot 7, and GPUs in 3 and 5?


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> *EDIT* According to Newegg, if you have slots 1, 3, 5, and 7 occupied, they will all run at 16x speed. So why couldn't you try your RAID card in slot 7, and GPUs in 3 and 5?


What does AsRock say about it? I would the manufacturer's statement above Newegg's.

That's some smexy WC your putting out there Chris


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> What does AsRock say about it? I would the manufacturer's statement above Newegg's.
> 
> That's some smexy WC your putting out there Chris


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASRock*
> 7 x PCIe 3.0 x16 slots (2 x PLX PEX 8747 bridges), Support 4-Way SLI/CrossFireX in full x16 PCIe 3.0 speed


Here is the link to the site http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/X79%20Extreme11/

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Solonowarion

Voted. Would liove to know how much this beast weighed.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> So the 7th slot is not 16x speed? Because if it was, then the most logical way to place cards in would be GPU in slot 3, GPU in slot 5, RAID card in slot 7. How come the bottom one isn't 16x?
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> *EDIT* According to Newegg, if you have slots 1, 3, 5, and 7 occupied, they will all run at 16x speed. So why couldn't you try your RAID card in slot 7, and GPUs in 3 and 5?


Slot 7 is 16x, as long as slot 6 isn't occupied. But it's the same problem as the graphics cards....., if you have something in slot 7 it covers up all the front panel power connections, front panel audio connections, usb ports, and Dr. Debug lights.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Voted. Would liove to know how much this beast weighed.


It's heavy! I'll weigh it when I'm done...and maybe do a "guess the weight" contest in the build log. Give away some of the extra parts I've ended up with for whomever guesses closest. That could be fun!


----------



## Hattifnatten

65kg


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Slot 7 is 16x, as long as slot 6 isn't occupied. But it's the same problem as the graphics cards....., if you have something in slot 7 it covers up all the front panel power connections, front panel audio connections, usb ports, and Dr. Debug lights.


Okay, I see how it would cover it up. I would still just try it out, just as an option!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> 65kg


Don't start guessing yet! Once done I'll post the final list of equipment and some more pictures. THEN....we'll do the guessing contest. For prizes.


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Don't start guessing yet! Once done I'll post the final list of equipment and some more pictures. THEN....we'll do the guessing contest. For prizes.


prizes? i thought the prize was watching this beast get assembled


----------



## Electrocutor

Have you decided what to use for biocide yet?

I figure, your options are:
Silver
Nuke Cu
Nuke PHN

Each has pros and cons.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Have you decided what to use for biocide yet?
> 
> I figure, your options are:
> Silver
> Nuke Cu
> Nuke PHN
> 
> Each has pros and cons.


Never really investigated or thought about it. What would you use?


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Never really investigated or thought about it. What would you use?


If it were me, I would go with biocide. I don't much like the idea of having silver floating in my reservoir (since it usually slightly tarnishes which takes from the aesthetic you strive for in your build). You could always stretch it and lodge it into your tubing though, if you really wanted silver. Just my personal opinion, but as Electrocutor said, they all have their pros and cons. I'm sure he will list them here for you.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Never really investigated or thought about it. What would you use?


Mayhems Biocide Extreme is PH balanced meaning better protection of the metals in your loop, it's used with his dyes so it must be effective. I'm going to run this in my loop if my MDPC package ever arrives! Business day 8


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Mayhems Biocide Extreme is PH balanced meaning better protection of the metals in your loop, it's used with his dyes so it must be effective. I'm going to run this in my loop if my MDPC package ever arrives! Business day 8


I've been waiting 13 business days for my MDPC package so far, I feel your pain. It seems to take forever to get to Hawaii.







The last one took 13 business days, so I'm holding out that it gets here today.


----------



## Electrocutor

This probably isn't is not all inclusive, but is what I based my decision on.

*Silver*
Pros:
- Easy (no ratios to worry about)
- Doesn't react with dye or most other additives if you plan to use them

Cons:
- Possibility to hinder water flow
- Must be within water flow to be effective
- Does not reach 'dead' areas like drain or fill tubes

*Nuke Cu (Copper Sulfate)*
Pros:
- Goes everywhere (including 'dead' areas)
- Doesn't react with most dye or other additives (there are exceptions) if you plan to use them

Cons:
- Causes water to become immediately conductive (it usually takes a few weeks otherwise)
- Can become corrosive if too much oxidation

*Nuke PHN (Benzalkonium Chloride)*
Pros:
- Goes everywhere, including 'dead' areas
- Also acts as a surfactant, slightly increasing heat transfer
- Also acts as a mild anti-corrosive agent

Cons:
- Acts as a surfactant, so almost all other additives will fall out of solution (including dyes)

*Distilled (No Additive)*
Pros:
- No worry about other additive consequences
- Will naturally pick up copper ions after 3-4 weeks that will act as weak biocide

Cons:
- Easily becomes acidic by absorbing external molecules (cu, ni, co2, etc)
- Any organic impurities likely to cause growth within the first 1-3 weeks (after that, copper ions help prevent)

I am by no means an expert, but this is what I've gathered from many sources across the Internet. I've chosen to use Nuke PHN in my own system.


----------



## SDH500

Another option is UV Disinfection, I doesn't impede flow (if done properly). A drawback is that UV lights strong enough for this use a decent amount of power as far as light bulbs go, but I don't think that is a problem for your PSU combo.
I don't know what the cost of a system for the size for a computer would be, I have helped install one at a water treatment center for a city of ~1M. The nice thing is that the water does not need to be exposed for a length of time, ours was in line.

One difference to this method from the others is that it will prevent and stop the spread of the bacteria that moves with the flow. If your system is already infected at a single part you may still have to chemically treat it.


----------



## wthenshaw

yeah i think a little bit of that crimson around the bridge would break up all the copper and white around it


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> *Nuke PHN (Benzalkonium Chloride)*
> Pros:
> - Goes everywhere, including 'dead' areas
> - Also acts as a surfactant, slightly increasing heat transfer
> - Also acts as a mild anti-corrosive agent
> 
> Cons:
> - Acts as a surfactant, so almost all other additives will fall out of solution (including dyes)
> 
> I am by no means an expert, but this is what I've gathered from many sources across the Internet. I've chosen to use Nuke PHN in my own system.


So if I'm not planning on using a dye in my coolant, is there any real negative to Nuke PHN? I'll probably do that, or just distilled water.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> So if I'm not planning on using a dye in my coolant, is there any real negative to Nuke PHN? I'll probably do that, or just distilled water.


If you have nothing but distilled water, then as far as I've found, there's no downside to using nuke PHN so long as you be sure to use the right ratio (tells on the bottle). This will be my first build using it though, so you may see if you can find any downsides elsewhere.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> If you have nothing but distilled water, then as far as I've found, there's no downside to using nuke PHN so long as you be sure to use the right ratio (tells on the bottle). This will be my first build using it though, so you may see if you can find any downsides elsewhere.


+1 for the info. Thanks.


----------



## Whatts

This Monsoon Silver G 1/4 Plug is an option if you decide to go silver. Avoids silver coils moving through your loop. I've got one for my next build.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> This Monsoon Silver G 1/4 Plug is an option if you decide to go silver. Avoids silver coils moving through your loop. I've got one for my next build.


I've been using one for months now without any issues. I would definitely recommend them.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> What does AsRock say about it? I would the manufacturer's statement above Newegg's.
> 
> That's some smexy WC your putting out there Chris


I emailed AsRock about it a while ago. They told me that slots 1, 3, 5 & 7 are all 16x. You can put your graphics cards in any of them in any configuration which works for you. They recommend 1-3 or 1-5 for dual & 1-3-5 for triple GPUs. Obviously 1-3-5-7 for quad GPUs. But they said anything goes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> It's heavy! I'll weigh it when I'm done...and maybe do a "guess the weight" contest in the build log. Give away some of the extra parts I've ended up with for whomever guesses closest. That could be fun!


Would that be dry weight (before coolant is added) or wet weight (after coolant added)?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> I emailed AsRock about it a while ago. They told me that slots 1, 3, 5 & 7 are all 16x. You can put your graphics cards in any of them in any configuration which works for you. They recommend 1-3 or 1-5 for dual & 1-3-5 for triple GPUs. Obviously 1-3-5-7 for quad GPUs. But they said anything goes.
> Would that be dry weight (before coolant is added) or wet weight (after coolant added)?


I've never said or insinuated that slot #7 is not 16x capable. I think we're getting off track here. What I've said several times is that if you have anything in slot #7, it covers up the USB connections, the power/reset connection and the front panel audio connections. So slot #7 is not available for me to use, unless I have a 1/2 length card that won't cover up these connections I need.

Slot #1 is always 16x. Slots #3, #5 and #7 are 16x.....as long as there is nothing in the slot directly above them. So...if you have something in slot 6, then both slot 6 and slot 7 drop down to 8x lanes.


----------



## dhruvdas2000

voted for you...looks.like we can already say you are the winner!.....gr8 work!!....its been an inspiration for all of us caselabs owners.


----------



## soth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've never said or insinuated that slot #7 is not 16x capable. I think we're getting off track here. What I've said several times is that if you have anything in slot #7, it covers up the USB connections, the power/reset connection and the front panel audio connections. So slot #7 is not available for me to use, unless I have a 1/2 length card that won't cover up these connections I need.
> 
> Slot #1 is always 16x. Slots #3, #5 and #7 are 16x.....as long as there is nothing in the slot directly above them. So...if you have something in slot 6, then both slot 6 and slot 7 drop down to 8x lanes.


Chris is absolutely right here.

In the manual for the board the slot configurations and speed are as follows:



Asrock really should have made this board XL-ATX form factor instead of CEB(E-ATX). There would then be enough room for slot 7 to be used with a gpu and still access the usb/firewire/power button and controls.


----------



## Whatts

Asrock really did put a lot of stuff on the board where it would be covered up by a full length card in slot 7.
You could get something like these 90° header connectors (it's a link to some chinese website but I'm sure more googling could find something closer to home). That's still not a solution for the buttons though...


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The voting is now open for the CaseLabs build contest. There are 4 very worthy builds that were nominated. I haven't gotten to finish up the lighting (light panel and and LED strip lighting), and I'm still tweaking the loop layout. I know it may be difficult to vote for an unfinished build....but if you have enjoyed my build log thus far, or it has inspired you or given you some ideas for your own build....I humbly ask for your consideration. You can vote simply by posting the name of the build you want to vote for in this thread. Follow that link and post the name of the build you are voting for.
> 
> I know it has taken me a long time to get this far, but I've been taking my time to enjoy it along the way. Summary of components:
> 
> - 50+ fans
> - 7 radiators
> - 4 pumps
> - 100+ Bitspower white fitting pieces
> - 16 Vertex 4 SSD's
> - 3960x
> - quad SLI with 2x GTX 690's
> - 64GB of memory
> - Areca raid card
> - 2x Aquaero 5's
> - 2x PSU's
> - Asrock Extreme11
> - water blocks on everything
> 
> Just takes 30 seconds to vote.....do it now.


You got my vote!


----------



## mandrix

I had that same problem with using two gpu's when I blew the top PCIe slot on one of my UD5H's, I could just barely get to the headers along the bottom of the board when using the bottom slot with a water block on the card.

For the kill coil option, I just drop mine in the res and I've never had any problems on my two current builds doing that. On my Phobya Balancer I just dropped it on the intake side of the separator, on the FrozenQ helix I just dropped it in.
Those silver plugs look nice, though.
I don't know, I'm just resistant to adding chemicals of any kind. Maybe it comes from working in the bottled water industry before I retired, we treated with ozone (which dissipates) and UV, except for Dasani water which gets basic chemicals added back. But all the water tanks/lines were Stainless.


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The voting is now open for the CaseLabs build contest. There are 4 very worthy builds that were nominated. I haven't gotten to finish up the lighting (light panel and and LED strip lighting), and I'm still tweaking the loop layout. I know it may be difficult to vote for an unfinished build....but if you have enjoyed my build log thus far, or it has inspired you or given you some ideas for your own build....I humbly ask for your consideration. You can vote simply by posting the name of the build you want to vote for in this thread. Follow that link and post the name of the build you are voting for.
> 
> I know it has taken me a long time to get this far, but I've been taking my time to enjoy it along the way. Summary of components:
> 
> - 50+ fans
> - 7 radiators
> - 4 pumps
> - 100+ Bitspower white fitting pieces
> - 16 Vertex 4 SSD's
> - 3960x
> - quad SLI with 2x GTX 690's
> - 64GB of memory
> - Areca raid card
> - 2x Aquaero 5's
> - 2x PSU's
> - Asrock Extreme11
> - water blocks on everything
> 
> Just takes 30 seconds to vote.....do it now.


I watched you from page 1 to here mate and I loved every bit of what you have going there, sure you get my vote


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've never said or insinuated that slot #7 is not 16x capable. I think we're getting off track here. What I've said several times is that if you have anything in slot #7, it covers up the USB connections, the power/reset connection and the front panel audio connections. So slot #7 is not available for me to use, unless I have a 1/2 length card that won't cover up these connections I need.
> 
> Slot #1 is always 16x. Slots #3, #5 and #7 are 16x.....as long as there is nothing in the slot directly above them. So...if you have something in slot 6, then both slot 6 and slot 7 drop down to 8x lanes.


I never insinuated you were insinuating anything. I was just responding to linkdiablo's question:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> What does AsRock say about it? I would the manufacturer's statement above Newegg's.


The point I was trying to convey to him is that you wouldn't have any issues putting your cards in any of the odd numbered PCIe slots any way you wanted. And that's what you were doing anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


Now as for your water cooling setup. I liked the latest rendition of the top part. I think you should keep that in the final layout. I'm thinking of doing something similar for my own. (Though I'm not water cooling my memory, which simplifies my loop structure somewhat.) As for the bottom half of it, that look's like the best setup with the MIPS chipset block. For my computer, I'm still waiting on the doo to finish his chipset block. The only alteration I'd have to your setup once you get doo's chipset block is that since his O-ring ports are above the level of the PCIe slot 1, I'd do something like this for that part of the loop:


That shouldn't require too much reworking of your existing plumbing if you decide to switch to it. And you wouldn't have to use those T-junctions. That's the only part of the current loop setup I don't like. I'm definitely not a fan of those. But I don't see another way you could work it with where the MIPS chipset block's inlet/outlet ports are located. Unless you could use PCIe slots 3 & 5 for the GPU's with a shorter SLI bridge. But that would mean putting the RAID card in slot 1 to keep slot 7 free which you already said didn't look as good.

Anyway, those are my thoughts on that. As for what your rig weighs in after it's complete and filled with water coolant, I'd estimate that it'll be at least 100 lbs.


----------



## stren

+1 on loving the new layout. I kinda like the GPU setup too, unique and funky but still keeping some crystal link in there!

Funny that you originally thought you'd complete this over the summer. Much like I expected to be done within a year but instead I'm nowhere close lol!


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> +1 on loving the new layout. I kinda like the GPU setup too, unique and funky but still keeping some crystal link in there!
> 
> Funny that you originally thought you'd complete this over the summer. Much like I expected to be done within a year but instead I'm nowhere close lol!


You mean to say that your project build is NOT DONE YET ???? gonna have to check that out !


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> You mean to say that your project build is NOT DONE YET ???? gonna have to check that out !


The beauty of a Case Labs rig is you can have a never ending project. Get tired of it? Change it all up again.


----------



## nickolp1974

loving this build excellent job, incredible attention to detail, but imo i'm not over keen on the white and red fittings in the board area, draws your eyes to the fittings more than the exquisite board, blocks etc. Can you not get black and copper fittings??? just to try, or all black(boring i know!!) or all copper fittings. obviously this is just my opinion and +REP fella, superb


----------



## Radmanhs

i want more pics! hahaha, great job!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Gratz on winning Chris! Really close one. xD


----------



## barracks510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Gratz on winning Chris! Really close one. xD


Aka you won with 88% . There is a difference you know. Just kidding. Congratz though.


----------



## Fyrwulf

There is so much with this build (OU, Intel, nVidia) that I could hate on, but it's so well done I just can't find it in me. Congrats on the contest win.

PS: EMAW.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> There is so much with this build (OU, Intel, nVidia) that I could hate on, but it's so well done I just can't find it in me. Congrats on the contest win.
> 
> PS: EMAW.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*


You have a question?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have a question?
Click to expand...

What's wrong with those companies / products?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What's wrong with those companies / products?


I'm a KU/KSU fan, so that one should be obvious. I don't like companies that engage in dirty business practices and the one computer I've owned that's had an Intel chip (my present laptop, which I got for the cost of replacing the HD) sucks big, hairy ones. As for nVidia, I don't necessarily dislike them, it's just that I'm big on supplier uniformity and if I'm only ever going to buy AMD processors then I'm not going to put anything but an AMD GPU in my system.

Sorry to the OP for the divergence.


----------



## Electrocutor

*cough*

It's taking some willpower to stay out of that discussion... needless to say, I support Chris on his choices.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> *cough*
> 
> It's taking some willpower to stay out of that discussion... needless to say, I support Chris on his choices.


Hey, it's his money, he can do with it what he wants. I was just busting his chops a little because of the whole OU thing. I would expect that if I were doing a K-State build he'd probably have something similar to say.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> lol, let's see if the Purple Pu**ies can stick it to the Jayhawks tonite !!!


Hey, as far as basketball goes, I'm a KU fan. One of the perks of growing up in the state but not going to either college is that I can pick my teams.


----------



## socketus

double lol, just wanted to see if I could get a response. I remember the dayze when the Kstaters would come to Larryville and dump purple suds in the Chi Omega fountain up on campus.
Or the old favorite - sneak a chicken into Allen Fieldhouse and let it loose before the game - it would either be a stripped chicken or a crimson & blue painted chicken - Hillarious stuff.

I root for the hometeam, natch, but K-State has had some seriously good B-Ball teams over the years. Can only help the state of Kansas hoops & get into the national view, tho why the game tonite isn't of national broadcast caliber is beyond me - must be the advance scheduling.


----------



## TPE-331

Chris, congrats on the contest victory! Good job man!


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Or the old favorite - sneak a chicken into Allen Fieldhouse and let it loose before the game - it would either be a stripped chicken or a crimson & blue painted chicken - Hillarious stuff.


At least you didn't pull a Bama and vandalize Allen Field House. It would've been Bleeding Kansas all over again, but this time with no Kansans bleeding.


----------



## nateman_doo

WOW, getting on to the 3000th post here.

Getting ready for the next stage of the tops:

What started off as a SOLID 2" thick block of Delrin has been machined down to next to nothing, to get that 17° presented for the beveled top.

You will see how that works in a bit.


Thats a 1x2x3 block for scale. A $50.00 chunk of Delrin just to do a single operation on the tops. If only I had a 4th axis...


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Is that a milling machine or just drill press?


----------



## dmanstasiu

the former


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Hard to tell with all the shavings.


----------



## nateman_doo

Yup, my home made CNC. I feel like haveing white chocolate for some reason.


----------



## Hattifnatten

White Toblerone


----------



## nateman_doo

Edit: duplicate post


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> White Toblerone


One of the most delicious chocolates ever!


----------



## nateman_doo

Here is what all the shavings were about


----------



## nateman_doo

Since I don't have a 4th or 5th axis on my CNC, I made the jig to present a flat surface for machining:

with the holes drilled and tapped, I can now simply countersink the remaining holes manually on the drill press.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Does this have anything to do with the BBBB?


----------



## cpachris

fyrwulf....yes...I have ordered a set from nateman_doo, and he is making a set of them for our community.


----------



## InsideJob

When can we expect some pictures, maybe even videos of the beast running??


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> fyrwulf....yes...I have ordered a set from nateman_doo, and he is making a set of them for our community.


Ah, I hadn't realized. Thanks for clearing up the confusion.


----------



## socketus

What exactly are they - the blocks ? for ? Inquiring m i n d s ..


----------



## nateman_doo

Chipset blocks for this board.


----------



## socketus

aHHH! of course ! Now I can see the Pope in the Pizza


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Since I don't have a 4th or 5th axis on my CNC, I made the jig to present a flat surface for machining:
> 
> with the holes drilled and tapped, I can now simply countersink the remaining holes manually on the drill press.


You did it nameman_doo! The first GOOD LOOKING waterblock for the extreme 11


----------



## Scout Lukas

Ok this was a long journey to read this build log but I have traveled far to get to this point and I want to see more, thanks for doing this build log


----------



## Radmanhs

can we get more pics of the system







even if its less complete than before


----------



## sandmen04

Art men doo

block look so cool, massive.

lot of work in there to...

can't wait to see some cooling number.

The build of heart (art).


----------



## nateman_doo

The last piece of the puzzle! This is the FIRST prototype. I can't believe I didn't have a single error (that you can see







)


Still a bit more to remove from the bottom, but this is the long awaited VR block!


----------



## nateman_doo

And the CAD drawing for comparison:


----------



## p0Pe

Noo, but why are the connectors angled







Is it not possible to make them go straight up?


----------



## nateman_doo

its too close to the video card. In fact one of the forum members here suggested it here to bevel the top and that would create the needed space that wouldnt block the video cards. 17.8° angle. nothing too extreme.

However, it is possible to make them go straight up, but it has to be done out in the middle of the block, in-between some video cards. That was my original idea.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> its too close to the video card. In fact one of the forum members here suggested it here to bevel the top and that would create the needed space that wouldnt block the video cards. 17.8° angle. nothing too extreme.
> 
> However, it is possible to make them go straight up, but it has to be done out in the middle of the block, in-between some video cards. That was my original idea.


If it's a big deal (I assume for 30, 45, or 90 fitting angles), you could add a couple threaded holes and o-ring grooves along with an optional add-on block that would extend the angle outward a bit and then level off flat again (so it would be farther away from the video card and parallel to the motherboard. I only see something like that being needed if someone absolutely needed to keep all angles to 30, 45, and 90 in order to use fittings.

17.8 + 30 = 47.8, so with the Bitspower 30-degree fitting, you would be mighty close to 45... is that not close enough? I know that the rotary fittings have at least some give in them and the crystal-link connectors have a lot.


----------



## p0Pe

Exactly, If it was 15 it would be perfect for the crystal links.


----------



## Truedeal

I see this build is finally slowing down.


----------



## Hattifnatten

Shame, really. Kept me entertained for months


----------



## Radmanhs

i hope it speeds back up after final waterblock!


----------



## nateman_doo

speaking of which... I did some consolidation:
http://goo.gl/4QLMF


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> speaking of which... I did some consolidation:
> http://goo.gl/4QLMF


WoW ! great googley mooglies







In the one picture there are 8 blocks laying on a table/bed. What's that all about ?

man, you *ROCK !!*


----------



## doXtor

It is simply magnificent!


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> speaking of which... I did some consolidation:
> http://goo.gl/4QLMF


Dear Lord. A full cover block for the south bridge? That has to be a first. Tell me, what's the cost in material and fabrication?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Dear Lord. A full cover block for the south bridge? That has to be a first. Tell me, what's the cost in material and fabrication?


The Extreme 11 has two PLX PCI-E bridge chips that get pretty hot in addition to an LSI storage controller. ASRock thought it was wise to put a terribly annoying tiny little fan on there to try to keep everything cool.

So in reality, this is for the X79 Chipset (technically plays the roll of the southbridge), the storage controoller, and the two PLX chips.


----------



## shahramkel

.... And I finally made it to the end! I stumbled upon this thread over a week ago and of course had to read it from the beginning. It has motivated me to put a lot more thought and time into my next build, and then to maybe learn how to use the DSLR when I have something picture-worthy. I've learned a lot regarding sleeving and dyeing. I learned about the Doo, which is a good thing. I've begun following builds of some of the knowledgeable people who have commented on this thread. And I've gained a load of respect for you, cpachris. Your attention to detail, thought process, and wit have made for a really entertaining and educational read. I'm looking forward to see it when you're "done." It's coming together nicely!


----------



## socketus

Gad ! another first time poster, cpachris must hold the record !


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Gad ! another first time poster, cpachris must hold the record !


Cpachris probably held the record a thousand posts ago.


----------



## socketus

Yah, but he's still adding new first time posters, *amazing !*


----------



## mandrix

Is this rig up and running with water cooling yet?
Would like to see how all these rads/pumps/blocks/Aquaero work out. Wanna see 2C Air/Water deltas.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Is this rig up and running with water cooling yet?
> Would like to see how all these rads/pumps/blocks/Aquaero work out. Wanna see 2C Air/Water deltas.


Not unless he's built the loop without the chipset block that's being made for him now.


----------



## Convex

Well good news and bad news nateman :/ the good news is that the block looks fantastic!... The bad news is that I'm 90% sure that at the way the inlet/outlet barb is angled, the barb with tubing will hit the CPU retention screw for the socket :/ it looks dangerously close ._.


----------



## TheHarvman313

OMG! I haven't been on since before Christmas. I just finished reading all the updates.

Chris this build is just amazing but I thought it would have been done by now!! Kinda glad it's not so there is more greatness to come!!!!!


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> Well good news and bad news nateman :/ the good news is that the block looks fantastic!... The bad news is that I'm 90% sure that at the way the inlet/outlet barb is angled, the barb with tubing will hit the CPU retention screw for the socket :/ it looks dangerously close ._.


He could take a 90 degree rotatable compression and have the hose come in directly parallel and opposite the retention screw. It would add length to the loop, but would avoid contact issues.


----------



## Willi

Nateman, you are an artist. That block looks amazing, makes me want to buy an extreme11 just to watercool it. Do you plan on plexi cover for that block?

and Chris, I'm so glad you´re taking your time. It´s builds like these that got me into watercooling (next step for me is mess with acrylic tubing)


----------



## Panther Al

Yet another first poster that had to get on here to say what a heck of a build you got here. Even if you ain't an Aggie.

Whats your thoughts on when it will be done? Bearing in mind things like these are never quite finished...


----------



## Electrocutor

So how about a quick update on what you've been busy with and when you think you'll get back to this system?


----------



## Quest99

I am curious as well. I was out for a couple of months, but I am now back on OCN and catching up.


----------



## cpachris

Hey guys! Sorry for the lack of updates. I let my brother (engmitch) get me involved with Ingress, and it has dominated my life for the last month.







Need to dial back and get this thing finished, I know. But for those of you who haven't heard of Ingress....check it out. Very fun....met lots of cool people playing.

I have made some progress that I haven't documented yet....so I'll try and do that soon. Need to finish before all my parts become out of date! Saw the GTX Titan reviews....nice cards...but I think I'll stick with the dual 690's for now...and wait for the 780/790's later this year.

I'll definitely finish this thing and get benchmarks posted. I appreciate all of you who have stuck with me this long. And also for all the votes in the CaseLabs contest!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Saw the GTX Titan reviews....nice cards...but I think I'll stick with the dual 690's for now


If only you could run 5 by x16 PCIE... That darn RAID card you have puts a wrench into everything. Just imagine if you could run 4xTitan SLI... imagine the folding.

[Edit]
Maybe 3x would be okay...


----------



## nateman_doo

Sorry, i def bit off more then I can chew with this batch. Slowly chipping away all the little processes involved.

my cnc was never meant for this much work. its practically on life support held together with rubber bands and duct tape. Blew out 2 stepper motors, and the spindle motor required a rebuild, and the gibs needed lapping. ALL during this batch. Thank god im getting VERY close to getting a much more capable CNC finished. One would think I had 4 arms the amount of work i have been up to my eyeballs in.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Which cnc is it?


----------



## TPE-331

Glad to see that you are back at it Chris, with no recent updates, I was starting to go through BBBB withdrawls.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Which cnc is it?


iirc it's a modded milling machine.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> iirc it's a modded milling machine.


Doesn't tell me much.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Doesn't tell me much.


http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?high=&m=1388758&mpage=1#1388758
At least I think. Can't remember my evga account so I can't see the pictures.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Oh. In that case, of course it's breaking. I was thinking of something big like by dad's bridgeport.

Which fyi doo, only cost him $70 more than that msrp.


----------



## nateman_doo

Yea, it started life as an X2, but its.... still an X2, but with double the Y. X11.7 Y7.8 work envelope. I have a liner rail build that i am also working on. it will have 18x18x18 xyz w/a Tormach V770 spindle
But more on that in the coming months.

I couldnt have a bridgeport in my house. No way to move it, and after using a dovetail gib type machine, I want no part of them anymore (bridgeport or the likes of)


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Lol, we moved ours on pipes and a crowbar. It wasn't easy.  Enough ot though.


----------



## Georc

You should write the title as "Big-Budget Boomer Box". I came in here thinking this was a large, budget build. It certainly is the former but definitely not the latter haha. Amazing work. I'm only about 30 pages in. Will have to look through the rest at some point, but for now, sleep...


----------



## simsas18

WOW! This build is really the best. I am looking forward to seeing this beast finished.


----------



## zerocool327

This build is freaking insane. Amazing job though, loved the color scheme. Def want to see updated pictures.


----------



## zerocool327

By the way, you could also get your self a uni-bit or step bit to make the filler holes. Will give you a cleaner circle instead of the jigsaw and would be done in about 10 seconds.


----------



## Qycc

Wow. That was the best three day period of my life. The attention to detail is absolutely amazing. While slightly anti-climactic, I hope you will finish soon.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Chris? Got any more progress for us?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Double post.


----------



## nateman_doo

Spend the better part of the weekend designing a jig which will allow me to work on the undersides of the top plates:


I increased flow 100% by taking some material off the top plate.
youtube video to follow (when its finished being "processed")


----------



## nateman_doo

finally finished "processing"


----------



## Mainsil

You are a talented man Nateman_doo!


----------



## XgenZeepee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


That's one massive gaming machine! With an massive liquid cooling!


----------



## huskerpat

As a Husker fan, that's about the ugliest thing I've ever seen.


----------



## Hydraulic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huskerpat*
> 
> As a Husker fan, that's about the ugliest thing I've ever seen.


But it was enough to get you to join and make your first post, which says alot I guess!









This is a truly epic build. Nice work man.


----------



## huskerpat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydraulic*
> 
> But it was enough to get you to join and make your first post, which says alot I guess!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a truly epic build. Nice work man.


Our favorite football teams have a rather historic rivalry...just a little friendly grief.


----------



## PCModderMike

Hey Chris. How things going?


----------



## Convex

I feel like nateman_doo has died


----------



## 512TBofRAM

Update me. Why no updates on the PC? I really want to see this finished... The components are going to become out of date eventually


----------



## PatrickCrowely

What happened here?


----------



## Mainsil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> What happened here?


Burnout? I would think that 8 months of intense, attention to detail on a project like this would take a toll. Hopefully he will come back after a hiatus. It was definitely a fun project to watch..


----------



## socketus

Well, iirc, cpachris was on a busman's holiday, sorta ....







- and there was the fiancee newly announced, and we got a great portion of his daily life spent creating and sustaining this thread with updates. I'm sure we're not forgotten, but you know what they say about RL ... it takes precedent.


----------



## cpachris

Plumbing update....and thanks to all of you inquiring on the status of the build. Still been spending too much time playing Ingress...but starting to slow on that. Plus...I feel like I was kind of forced into an update based on my request for more FG pictures in another thread.







So....here goes.

First, lets knock out some pictures of some small updates from last set of pictures. Both of these changes were suggested by members...and I think they improve the aesthetics just a little bit.

Previously, I had a small piece of crystal link coming out of one of the Q blocks that was the pathway from the GPU block to the board block. To help break-up the long run of white fittings, I moved the crystal link portion of the run to the middle of the path instead of having it start right after the Q block. Helps to break up the white and center the crystal link a little more. Improvement, I think.



Spoiler: Old Layout









Spoiler: New Layout







Next, here is another small change that, again, is intended to break up one of the longer runs of white fittings with some crystal link. I had originally used a run of white fittings from one reservoir to the other. Someone suggested breaking that up with some crystal link...and I think this is an improvement also.



Spoiler: Old Layout









Spoiler: New Layout







As a reminder, my first plumbing layout attempt here is to have two subloops (CPU subloop and a GPU subloop) that both share one radiator loop for maxium cooling efficiency. The CPU subloop order goes VR > RAM > CPU > RAM > AQ5 > AQ5. The GPU subloop order goes GPU1 > GPU2 > Main Board Block. Here is a full picture of the motherboard side showing these two subloops and the changes mentioned above:



However, most of the time I've spent on the plumbing since my last update, has been on the PSU side of the build. I'm starting with a variation of one of the many sketches that Electrocutor brainstormed for me. It uses 3x valves in the loop to control the flow between the CPU subloop and the GPU subloop. First, here are a couple of overall pictures, and then I'll try and explain it in more detail:




I've included some numbers and letters on the picture below to aid in describing what I'm trying to do. Follow the discussion while looking at the referenced #'s and letters.

(1) Flow from 2x pumps in main compartment
(2) Flow to CPU subloop
(3) Return flow from CPU subloop
(4) Flow to GPU subloop
(5) Flow to AQ5's and then ultimately the radiator loop.

The two pumps in the main compartment send all the flow through the fittings along path (1). The flow reaches a Y connector and this is where the first option exists. If valve (A) is closed, then all of the flow heads up the tubing path (2) to the CPU subloop. If valve (A) is open, then the flow is split between the CPU subloop and the GPU subloop. And of course, there are varying degrees of "open" in-between open and closed...which would allow me to control how much flow gets directed to the CPU subloop vs the GPU subloop.

The CPU subloop returns all the flow it received back to the PSU side of the build along tubing path (3). It reaches another Y connector, which creates another option for the flow at this point. If valve (C) is closed and valve (B) is open, then 100% of the flow goes to the GPU subloop via fitting path (4). If valve (C) is open and valve (B) is closed, then 100% of the flow goes to the AQ5's and radiator loop via tubing path (5). And again...there could be varying degrees of "open" which would allow fine tuning of how much flow goes to the GPU subloop vs the radiator loop.

Any flow directed to the GPU subloop ends up being directed to the radiator loop, but that happens on the other side of the box.



So consider the following scenarios, which I could easily switch between just by opening or closing valves. When I'm using the words serial and parallel below...I'm not referring to the parallel GPU blocks...I'm referring to the subloops. Whether or not the GPU blocks are in serial or parallel flow, has no bearing on the options below and could be changed independently:

*100% Serial Loop* -- Valves (A) and (C) closed, and valve (B) open. This would direct 100% of the flow to the CPU subloop, and then the GPU subloop, and then the radiator loop. It would be as-if there were not separate subloops at all.

*100% Parallel Subloops* -- Valves (A) and (C) open, and valve (B) closed. This would split the flow from the pumps immediately between the CPU subloop and the GPU subloop, and there would not be any intermingling of flow until it reached the radiator loop. Variations within this option could be controlled by how open valve (A) is. For example, if valve (A) were only 1/2 open, this would cause greater restriction in the GPU subloop and direct more of the initial flow to the CPU subloop.

*100% CPU Loop* -- Valves (A) and (B) closed, and valve (C) open. This would send all of the flow to the CPU subloop with zero flow going to GPU subloop. This might be useful if swapping video cards out and wanting to temporarily use an air cooler for GPU's. I could achieve this without having to make changes to the loop. Just opening or closing valves.

*100% GPU Loop* -- To accomplish this, I would really need to add a 4th valve on the other side of the first Y connector, and close it so that all of the flow goes toward tubing run (4). Valve (A) would be open, and valves (B) and (C) would be closed. Might add a 4th valve in a future update.

I'm excited about the thought of playing around with how flow impacts temperatures of the components in all these different options. I may find out that the impact is not large enough to excite me...and if so, I could probably make the tubing path less complicated. But for now...I like the options. I like the idea of being able to make changes on the fly just be adjusting valves. If I'm doing something CPU intensive...I could increase the flow to the CPU subloop. If I'm doing something GPU intensive....I could increase the flow to the GPU subloop. Options are good. Options are fun.

I think I'm ready to fill it up for a leak test. But before I can do that...I'll need to get it down the stairs to the kitchen. So perhaps not until this weekend. But very soon. I'm anxious to get to start using the beast daily!


----------



## csrxg

UPDATES!!!!


----------



## Farmer Boe

Excellent update. I'm looking forward to seeing the results from your loops in different flow configurations.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Very nice! I'm curious to see how the GPU loop performs with those Q-blocks in there.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## meeps

Loving the intricacy of the sub-loops/valve system!









Also the new routing in the main compartment looks much better than previous variations


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Plumbing update....and thanks to all of you inquiring on the status of the build. Still been spending too much time playing Ingress...but starting to slow on that. Plus...I feel like I was kind of forced into an update based on my request for more FG pictures in another thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So....here goes.
> 
> First, lets knock out some pictures of some small updates from last set of pictures. Both of these changes were suggested by members...and I think they improve the aesthetics just a little bit.
> 
> Previously, I had a small piece of crystal link coming out of one of the Q blocks that was the pathway from the GPU block to the board block. To help break-up the long run of white fittings, I moved the crystal link portion of the run to the middle of the path instead of having it start right after the Q block. Helps to break up the white and center the crystal link a little more. Improvement, I think.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Old Layout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: New Layout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, here is another small change that, again, is intended to break up one of the longer runs of white fittings with some crystal link. I had originally used a run of white fittings from one reservoir to the other. Someone suggested breaking that up with some crystal link...and I think this is an improvement also.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Old Layout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: New Layout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a reminder, my first plumbing layout attempt here is to have two subloops (CPU subloop and a GPU subloop) that both share one radiator loop for maxium cooling efficiency. The CPU subloop order goes VR > RAM > CPU > RAM > AQ5 > AQ5. The GPU subloop order goes GPU1 > GPU2 > Main Board Block. Here is a full picture of the motherboard side showing these two subloops and the changes mentioned above:
> 
> 
> 
> However, most of the time I've spent on the plumbing since my last update, has been on the PSU side of the build. I'm starting with a variation of one of the many sketches that Electrocutor brainstormed for me. It uses 3x valves in the loop to control the flow between the CPU subloop and the GPU subloop. First, here are a couple of overall pictures, and then I'll try and explain it in more detail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've included some numbers and letters on the picture below to aid in describing what I'm trying to do. Follow the discussion while looking at the referenced #'s and letters.
> 
> (1) Flow from 2x pumps in main compartment
> (2) Flow to CPU subloop
> (3) Return flow from CPU subloop
> (4) Flow to GPU subloop
> (5) Flow to AQ5's and then ultimately the radiator loop.
> 
> The two pumps in the main compartment send all the flow through the fittings along path (1). The flow reaches a Y connector and this is where the first option exists. If valve (A) is closed, then all of the flow heads up the tubing path (2) to the CPU subloop. If valve (A) is open, then the flow is split between the CPU subloop and the GPU subloop. And of course, there are varying degrees of "open" in-between open and closed...which would allow me to control how much flow gets directed to the CPU subloop vs the GPU subloop.
> 
> The CPU subloop returns all the flow it received back to the PSU side of the build along tubing path (3). It reaches another Y connector, which creates another option for the flow at this point. If valve (C) is closed and valve (B) is open, then 100% of the flow goes to the GPU subloop via fitting path (4). If valve (C) is open and valve (B) is closed, then 100% of the flow goes to the AQ5's and radiator loop via tubing path (5). And again...there could be varying degrees of "open" which would allow fine tuning of how much flow goes to the GPU subloop vs the radiator loop.
> 
> Any flow directed to the GPU subloop ends up being directed to the radiator loop, but that happens on the other side of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> So consider the following scenarios, which I could easily switch between just by opening or closing valves. When I'm using the words serial and parallel below...I'm not referring to the parallel GPU blocks...I'm referring to the subloops. Whether or not the GPU blocks are in serial or parallel flow, has no bearing on the options below and could be changed independently:
> 
> *100% Serial Loop* -- Valves (A) and (C) closed, and valve (B) open. This would direct 100% of the flow to the CPU subloop, and then the GPU subloop, and then the radiator loop. It would be as-if there were not separate subloops at all.
> 
> *100% Parallel Subloops* -- Valves (A) and (C) open, and valve (B) closed. This would split the flow from the pumps immediately between the CPU subloop and the GPU subloop, and there would not be any intermingling of flow until it reached the radiator loop. Variations within this option could be controlled by how open valve (A) is. For example, if valve (A) were only 1/2 open, this would cause greater restriction in the GPU subloop and direct more of the initial flow to the CPU subloop.
> 
> *100% CPU Loop* -- Valves (A) and (B) closed, and valve (C) open. This would send all of the flow to the CPU subloop with zero flow going to GPU subloop. This might be useful if swapping video cards out and wanting to temporarily use an air cooler for GPU's. I could achieve this without having to make changes to the loop. Just opening or closing valves.
> 
> *100% GPU Loop* -- To accomplish this, I would really need to add a 4th valve on the other side of the first Y connector, and close it so that all of the flow goes toward tubing run (4). Valve (A) would be open, and valves (B) and (C) would be closed. Might add a 4th valve in a future update.
> 
> I'm excited about the thought of playing around with how flow impacts temperatures of the components in all these different options. I may find out that the impact is not large enough to excite me...and if so, I could probably make the tubing path less complicated. But for now...I like the options. I like the idea of being able to make changes on the fly just be adjusting valves. If I'm doing something CPU intensive...I could increase the flow to the CPU subloop. If I'm doing something GPU intensive....I could increase the flow to the GPU subloop. Options are good. Options are fun.
> 
> I think I'm ready to fill it up for a leak test. But before I can do that...I'll need to get it down the stairs to the kitchen. So perhaps not until this weekend. But very soon. I'm anxious to get to start using the beast daily!






I'll retrack my post from seanimus's thread. DAMN! nice job


----------



## R4V3N

It's great to see you return to the thread, Chris.


----------



## XgenZeepee

Red and White theme looks freakin' awesome.

great job!


----------



## TPE-331

Welcome back Chris! Good to see you again, my daughter loves Ingress too. I tried it but didn't have a clue what I was doing.







Can't wait to see BBBB up and running.


----------



## bmacks1

Sweet rig. Love the paint job on the case.


----------



## cpachris

I got the beast moved downstairs. Not a small task doing it on my own.







Put it back together and raised it up on some wooden blocks so that it would be easy to drain if something went horribly wrong.



My fill spout on the top of the case worked beautifully. I was able to stick a funnel in it and pour distilled water directly from the gallon container. No syringes or slow pours. Very nice.

Poured in about 1/2 gallon and it spread to a good portion of the loop without even having the pumps turned on. I was able to spot 4 leaks within the first 15 minutes or so of it sitting there. Two were easy to fix by tightening fittings while the loop was still assembled. The other two will require partial dis-assembly to work on. One remaining leak is from one of the Aquacomputer inline temp sensor fittings, and the other is the Q block that joins the two reservoirs together.

I've started draining it and will make some inspections and tweaks...and then start again. Hopefully more pictures later.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I got the beast moved downstairs. Not a small task doing it on my own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it back together and raised it up on some wooden blocks so that it would be easy to drain if something went horribly wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> My fill spout on the top of the case worked beautifully. I was able to stick a funnel in it and pour distilled water directly from the gallon container. No syringes or slow pours. Very nice.
> 
> Poured in about 1/2 gallon and it spread to a good portion of the loop without even having the pumps turned on. I was able to spot 4 leaks within the first 15 minutes or so of it sitting there. Two were easy to fix by tightening fittings while the loop was still assembled. The other two will require partial dis-assembly to work on. One remaining leak is from one of the Aquacomputer inline temp sensor fittings, and the other is the Q block that joins the two reservoirs together.
> 
> I've started draining it and will make some inspections and tweaks...and then start again. Hopefully more pictures later.


Great work and good luck mate!


----------



## TPE-331




----------



## cpachris

Solved the initial 4 leaks...and got as far as turning the pumps on to push the coolant further through the loop. Turned them off quickly. Big leak on the top AQ5 on the inlet that had the compression fitting. Looking at it closely, it looks like the little screw in the middle of the block is stopping the fitting from compressing against the block. I think I just need to add a straight fitting out of the block (smaller diameter than the compression fitting) and put the compression fitting on that.

Mini-drain is needed to attempt fix. Glad I didn't have any power whatsoever on the board or the AQ5's. Don't think I'll have any damage. No water touched the board ever...but the FC8 that is below the the AQ5 got a little wet. We'll see what happens when I solve all the leaks and power up.

Kids getting home from school in 15 minutes....may have to pause until this evening. But I'm getting closer.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Solved the initial 4 leaks...and got as far as turning the pumps on to push the coolant further through the loop. Turned them off quickly. Big leak on the top AQ5 on the inlet that had the compression fitting. Looking at it closely, it looks like the little screw in the middle of the block is stopping the fitting from compressing against the block. I think I just need to add a straight fitting out of the block (smaller diameter than the compression fitting) and put the compression fitting on that.
> 
> Mini-drain is needed to attempt fix. Glad I didn't have any power whatsoever on the board or the AQ5's. Don't think I'll have any damage. No water touched the board ever...but the FC8 that is below the the AQ5 got a little wet. We'll see what happens when I solve all the leaks and power up.
> 
> Kids getting home from school in 15 minutes....may have to pause until this evening. But I'm getting closer.


It looks like you are experiencing the compression fitting seating issue with AQ5 block. I noticed the same thing when mounting my block and test fitting a compression. I am going take the same route and add an extender underneath the compression to add some heigth to clear the screw on the block.


----------



## mandrix

I'm not using any screws on the AQ5 blocks to hold that little plate in place. I've just got the Koolance pipe fittings holding it in place.
On the inline temp sensors, they are prone to leak when the O ring gets twisted. I've had mine apart so many times in the last few months I've destroyed several sets of O rings...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> It looks like you are experiencing the compression fitting seating issue with AQ5 block. I noticed the same thing when mounting my block and test fitting a compression. I am going take the same route and add an extender underneath the compression to add some heigth to clear the screw on the block.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm not using any screws on the AQ5 blocks to hold that little plate in place. I've just got the Koolance pipe fittings holding it in place.
> On the inline temp sensors, they are prone to leak when the O ring gets twisted. I've had mine apart so many times in the last few months I've destroyed several sets of O rings...


TPE-331....a small extender did the trick. No leaks there now. Mandrix...you're solution is unique and creative. I guess that little screw is kind of unnecessary once you have something screwed in the inlet/outlet, huh? Wouldn't have thought of solving it that way. And yes...the inline temp sensor leak was a MISSING o-ring. You know how on the AQ ones it just sits in place without gripping the screw part, and can just all right off when the sensor is not connected? Well...it had fallen off before I put that sensor on. Didn't find the original missing o-ring...but I had lots of extra sensors and borrowed one from another sensor. Leak solved.

So I had the pumps running for about 2 hours and everything filled up....and had two more issues. One is a very very small leak on the main board block inlet. About one small drip every 30 minutes or so. But...needs to be solved. It was coming directly from the inlet....so I'm assuming I can just tighten up the fitting a little bit and solve this one. But...I'll have to disassemble the loop some just to reach it. It's sandwiched in a pretty tight space between the top GPU and the raid card. I'll work on that today.

Second issue was one of my D5's went out while I was playing with the variable speed control knob. It still seemed to be be pushing a lot of water through with just 3 pumps still working....but I'll definitely replace this one. I won't let it slow down moving forward, but I'll go ahead and order one and have it ready for the next tear down.

Hopefully more news soon.....


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I got the beast moved downstairs. Not a small task doing it on my own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it back together and raised it up on some wooden blocks so that it would be easy to drain if something went horribly wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> My fill spout on the top of the case worked beautifully. I was able to stick a funnel in it and pour distilled water directly from the gallon container. No syringes or slow pours. Very nice.
> 
> Poured in about 1/2 gallon and it spread to a good portion of the loop without even having the pumps turned on. I was able to spot 4 leaks within the first 15 minutes or so of it sitting there. Two were easy to fix by tightening fittings while the loop was still assembled. The other two will require partial dis-assembly to work on. One remaining leak is from one of the Aquacomputer inline temp sensor fittings, and the other is the Q block that joins the two reservoirs together.
> 
> I've started draining it and will make some inspections and tweaks...and then start again. Hopefully more pictures later.






I am wondering how you got that down the stairs...


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Maybe he's a body builder with very wide stairs?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## JaRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Maybe he's a body builder with very wide stairs?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nah that thing's a rock, he just gave it a push and it was there


----------



## PCModderMike

Good to see you're back at it and making progress. Kind of a bummer about the hiccups you are hitting, but I guess with such a complex loop there are bound to be some issues that have to be worked out. Looking great though.


----------



## Khepira

Looking seriously amazing!


----------



## waslakhani

Great build!! Wished I saw this thread earlier! Subbed for sure


----------



## Lefik

I'm currently "only" 198 pages into this buildlog. Here's my impressions so far:

Ermahgerd


----------



## RussianC

Hmm, I have heard of these threads before. Wait... NO!

DEAR GOD NO! MUST...... STOP...... READING!

"5 Years later"

Damn it.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> TPE-331....a small extender did the trick. No leaks there now. Mandrix...you're solution is unique and creative. I guess that little screw is kind of unnecessary once you have something screwed in the inlet/outlet, huh? Wouldn't have thought of solving it that way. And yes...the inline temp sensor leak was a MISSING o-ring. You know how on the AQ ones it just sits in place without gripping the screw part, and can just all right off when the sensor is not connected? Well...it had fallen off before I put that sensor on. Didn't find the original missing o-ring...but I had lots of extra sensors and borrowed one from another sensor. Leak solved.
> 
> So I had the pumps running for about 2 hours and everything filled up....and had two more issues. One is a very very small leak on the main board block inlet. About one small drip every 30 minutes or so. But...needs to be solved. It was coming directly from the inlet....so I'm assuming I can just tighten up the fitting a little bit and solve this one. But...I'll have to disassemble the loop some just to reach it. It's sandwiched in a pretty tight space between the top GPU and the raid card. I'll work on that today.
> 
> Second issue was one of my D5's went out while I was playing with the variable speed control knob. It still seemed to be be pushing a lot of water through with just 3 pumps still working....but I'll definitely replace this one. I won't let it slow down moving forward, but I'll go ahead and order one and have it ready for the next tear down.
> 
> Hopefully more news soon.....


Yes, the sensor fittings aren't optimized very well for the O rings. They are also prone to twist if you overtighten them.
A good while back I bought a bunch of extra O rings for G 1/4 fittings, with my propensity to tear everything apart once a week they come in handy.
I'd rather replace an O ring than take it back apart just for one bad one, and as durable as they usually are I find replacing the inline sensor O rings prudent.


----------



## cpachris

I had to take the motherboard tray out to tackle the small leak I had on the Mips main board block. Gave me a chance to see how easy it was going to be using all the d-plugs I have in the loop. Really liked them. The motherboard tray has 4x connections to the loop, and all have d-plugs so you can just pull the connection apart without having to disassemble any of your loop. They worked very well.

The only part I was not satisfied with was draining the loop to do this. My drain valve that I have in the bottom of the pedestal was very effective at draining a portion of the loop...but there was also a portion that gravity prevented from getting to that side of the loop. So.....while I was reassembling the loop I added a second drain valve. This one is in the main compartment on the PSU side, and is effective at quickly draining the water out of the motherboard portion of the loop. I used a valve and a d-plug so that I can just attach a extension or hose when its ready to drain...and then open the valve. It worked nicely.



After reassembling and filling the loop again....I ran it overnight with pumps on high...and woke up this morning to no leaks. NO LEAKS! Feels good. So...I guess I'm ready to power everything back up and make sure it still works. I've been using a spare power supply outside of the build so that nothing on the board was powered at all....only the pumps. Now I'm ready to get everything powered back up.



Can't wait to see difference in temps on water vs air. Wish me luck.


----------



## Hattifnatten




----------



## RussianC

Jesus, Simply Amazing Rig......


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Good luck! I'm still not a fan of all of the fittings but to each their own! It still looks great!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*


----------



## cpachris

Powered and up and running on its own power supplies now. The difference in temps....is amazing. I'll log some extensive data for component temps and water/air delta...at different fan speeds and flow rates and show some cool charts soon. It will take awhile to compile all that. But just looking at some basic stuff, I can see how much the improvement is for water vs air:

*GPU* -- My 2x 690's would hit 90+ degrees during stress testing on air. I'm sure they were being throttled...although I don't know the exact temperature that it kicks in at. I would always stop the stress test because I was scared about how high the temps would get. No more. On the EVGA Furry-Tessy Donut, my GPU cores are maxing out in the upper 30's and lower 40's, depending on other factors. That's an amazing difference! Should allow me some room to use a larger GPU boost clock.

*CPU* -- I've toyed with mild overclocks in the past. The highest I could go without getting scared about the temps when it was on air, was about 4.4 GHz. Cores would get up into the 80's at this point under a Prime95 load. Now...on water....a Prime95 load at 4.0 GHz is maxing the cores out in the mid to upper 40's! Clearly have some headroom to play. I haven't gone higher than 4.0 GHz yet on water, but that is next.

*Water/Air Delta's* -- I need to finish some power connections for some of the fans...but even with not all of them spinning...it looks like water/air deltas are going to be less than 2 degrees for a CPU only load....and less than 7 degrees for a CPU + GPU load (Prime95 and Furry-Tessy Donut at the same time). Will be curious to see how much the delta's improve once I have all fans running and replace the one pump that is not working.

*Flow Rates* -- Only 3 of 4 pumps working...but I'm getting about 1.0 to 1.2 gpm for the cpu subloop and gpu subloop combined. Through the use of the valve system, I can divide that flow up just about however I want to between the two subloops. Right now the radiator loop is getting about 1.3 gpm of flow. When there is a difference between flow rates between the subloops and the radiator loop, the crystal link connection between the reservoirs serves to transfer water from one reservoir to the other. I've watched the flow between the reservoirs reverse direction depending on what the flow rates were (based on opening/closing the valves).


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Awesome! Fantastic temps.


----------



## wthenshaw

So glad to see this build log being updated again, I thought all was lost









Edit: Is that Lego Harry Potter I see in the background of that photo?


----------



## Willi

Its amazing how a watercooler system can lower the deltas and keep things under control even under load.
Love your build, all the attention to detail, the patience in fitting it all. I still think that using white-powdercoated copper piping would give it a much better look, but it is amazing as is.
Congratulations, cpachris all that care and love you put into this build finally paid off... And I bet that even with all the fans spinning, it's whisper-quiet.

Really want to see those charts XD


----------



## mandrix

I think you can bring your combined delta's down a bit, but will be curious to see if more flow helps any as you are pretty much in the sweet spot.


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Pictures of fan progress for today.
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see difference in temps on water vs air. Wish me luck.


Implying that there is no air.


----------



## Wibble360

Yay!

Well done for getting her fired up, looking forward to sitting down with a mug of coffee and looking through all the stats!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Awesome! Fantastic temps.


I'm pretty stoked.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> So glad to see this build log being updated again, I thought all was lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Is that Lego Harry Potter I see in the background of that photo?


Good eyes. My 9yo son's lego projects grew to dominate the living room shelves over a year or so. He has just about grown out of doing them, so perhaps I can put them somewhere. But yes...Harry Potter can be seen in the background. But there are also Star Wars, Lego City, and Indiana Jones sitting n various places. Lots and LOTS of star wars...because I think they are cool too.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Its amazing how a watercooler system can lower the deltas and keep things under control even under load. Love your build, all the attention to detail, the patience in fitting it all. I still think that using white-powdercoated copper piping would give it a much better look, but it is amazing as is.
> Congratulations, cpachris all that care and love you put into this build finally paid off... And I bet that even with all the fans spinning, it's whisper-quiet.
> 
> Really want to see those charts XD


White powdercoated copper, huh? Sounds nice. I like the look of plain copper tubing a lot...but I'm not happy with any of the connectors I've seen people use to attach the tubing to the components and/or fittings. Perhaps someone will create a nice one someday.

And yes...it is more silent than I could have hoped for.......when the raid card fan is not spinning. It's the only component without a water block, and the little fan on the booger is loud. When I unplug it...everything is so pleasantly silent. Will need to figure out a way to waterblock that card at some point.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I think you can bring your combined delta's down a bit, but will be curious to see if more flow helps any as you are pretty much in the sweet spot.


There were 16 rad fans still not spinning for the preliminary delta's....so I think it will improve when they are all running. And yes...I'll be curious to see how much flow impacts component temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Implying that there is no air.


Touche'. lol.


----------



## Khepira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm pretty stoked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good eyes. My 9yo son's lego projects grew to dominate the living room shelves over a year or so. He has just about grown out of doing them, so perhaps I can put them somewhere. But yes...Harry Potter can be seen in the background. But there are also Star Wars, Lego City, and Indiana Jones sitting n various places. Lots and LOTS of star wars...because I think they are cool too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White powdercoated copper, huh? Sounds nice. I like the look of plain copper tubing a lot...but I'm not happy with any of the connectors I've seen people use to attach the tubing to the components and/or fittings. Perhaps someone will create a nice one someday.
> 
> And yes...it is more silent than I could have hoped for.......when the raid card fan is not spinning. It's the only component without a water block, and the little fan on the booger is loud. When I unplug it...everything is so pleasantly silent. Will need to figure out a way to waterblock that card at some point.
> There were 16 rad fans still not spinning for the preliminary delta's....so I think it will improve when they are all running. And yes...I'll be curious to see how much flow impacts component temps.
> Touche'. lol.


Annnddd, I've finally caught up on this log of yours. It only took an entire sick day in bed!

So question: You've got XT and LT mounted 1 space apart on the front panel. I found it's necessary for the same exact reasons though since the LT is mounted _behind_ a one-spacer front plate, it's just ever so slightly at a different depth from the XT on top. When I attempt to plumb, there's a short gap. A connection _could_ be made though not without bending both PCBs. How'd you go about solving this riddle?


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


Since no one made the comment: your monitor looks puny next to the BBBB









P.S. I love your build and you hou look into watercooling your radiators ... 50+ fans ... do you have a pond outside to do swampcooling?


----------



## Fololight

spent multiple days looking through this build all i have to say is DANG.


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fololight*
> 
> spent multiple days looking through this build all i have to say is DANG.


Oh yes, I am glad I started following this build early.


----------



## Whatts

I got in on page 44








Glad to see it's moving along again, thought this means the moment of cold turkey is inevitably coming closer...


----------



## TPE-331

She's alive! Temps look sweet! Can't wait to see your data dumps.


----------



## Audiophile20

Hi cpachris-

Glad to see your up and running. I got my board under water and it is working well. Love your "water lines" -- great design with all the valves and option routing!!!

I decided to put 2x 5-way manifolds and in/out water for 3 sub loops - CPU, GPUs and MOBO blocks - a lot of tubing but still managing to get 1.1g/min with 2x D5 running in series at 60%.

I am getting my AQ AE5 Pro replaced as I had some problems. That is on its way from Germany - Awesome service from Sven! My hats off. But I digress.

1. Leaks- I had put in-line sensors from Phobya and they both leaked under full pump force. So had to drain the loop and remove the sensors. I am curious, how do you like tin the inlines from AQ are they made by AQ or are they re-branded Phobya?

2. My CPU and GPU temps are stable 37C and 2x GTX580 at 33C and 32C - at idle. Do these look reasonable to you? I have not started load testing yet. Waiting for my replacement AQ5 to arrive.

3. Considering moving to 1/2" tubing from pumps to loop input and loop output to Rad1>Rad2. Do you see this making a difference in flow rates or most importantly temps?

Lovely build! Love all the copper in the build. I am house hunting and new home does not have as much copper as your build!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> Yay! Well done for getting her fired up, looking forward to sitting down with a mug of coffee and looking through all the stats!


Yeah....overclocking and stats will be a fun portion of this build. I can't wait myself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khepira*
> 
> Annnddd, I've finally caught up on this log of yours. It only took an entire sick day in bed!
> 
> So question: You've got XT and LT mounted 1 space apart on the front panel. I found it's necessary for the same exact reasons though since the LT is mounted _behind_ a one-spacer front plate, it's just ever so slightly at a different depth from the XT on top. When I attempt to plumb, there's a short gap. A connection _could_ be made though not without bending both PCBs. How'd you go about solving this riddle?


I know what you mean about how long it takes to get caught up. I took a couple months off from the forums and I'm still not completely caught back up on all the build logs I'm following. Plus...there are lots of new ones I want to get into also. Totally into yours, by the way. Keep it up.

I had to play around with spacing a lot to get it to work. You can't use the same pieces on both sides of the connection and get it to work. Plus...the smallest extension is something like 5mm...which is MORE than you need to even things out. So...I ended up lucking into the following little trick just by playing around with it. On the Bitspower triple rotary 90 degree fittings....one end of the fitting has a rotary end that is slightly longer than the other rotary end. Use this to your advantage. For the two 90 degree turns...face one fitting with the fat rotary end facing the AQ5 pcb...and the other 90 degree fitting with the small rotary end facing the other AQ5. That gives you a little bit of differential to play with. Combine that with some extensions that are different sizes...and you can dial in the exact distance you need to make it work. Next time I'm taking some close-ups, I'll try and get a shot of the fittings between the two AQ5's so you can see what I did.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> Since no one made the comment: your monitor looks puny next to the BBBB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. I love your build and you hou look into watercooling your radiators ... 50+ fans ... do you have a pond outside to do swampcooling?


Yeah...that's a small extra monitor I use when working on new builds. My main rig has a 27 inch...but I think I'll upgrade to a 30 inch when I'm done with the BBBB. I'm not really into multi-monitor gaming at all, so I just want one large display, and then I'm playing with the idea of a wacom tablet display as a secondary monitor. No swamps in Edmond, OK!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fololight*
> 
> spent multiple days looking through this build all i have to say is DANG.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> Oh yes, I am glad I started following this build early.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> I got in on page 44
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see it's moving along again, thought this means the moment of cold turkey is inevitably coming closer...


Fololight...you're a man of few words. But thanks. I've still got some final wiring to do..and then lighting. But...there are always upgrades and new stats to do. But as soon as this one is 95% done and has become my primary day-to-day rig...I'm going to build my fiancee a smaller more modest computer. Still nice components...but probably only 1 graphics card and 1 or 2 radiators. Something pretty and girly. She'll like it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> She's alive! Temps look sweet! Can't wait to see your data dumps.


Thank you sir. I'm going to have fun with that part also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile20*
> 
> Hi cpachris-
> 
> Glad to see your up and running. I got my board under water and it is working well. Love your "water lines" -- great design with all the valves and option routing!!! I decided to put 2x 5-way manifolds and in/out water for 3 sub loops - CPU, GPUs and MOBO blocks - a lot of tubing but still managing to get 1.1g/min with 2x D5 running in series at 60%. I am getting my AQ AE5 Pro replaced as I had some problems. That is on its way from Germany - Awesome service from Sven! My hats off. But I digress.
> 
> 1. Leaks- I had put in-line sensors from Phobya and they both leaked under full pump force. So had to drain the loop and remove the sensors. I am curious, how do you like tin the inlines from AQ are they made by AQ or are they re-branded Phobya?
> 
> 2. My CPU and GPU temps are stable 37C and 2x GTX580 at 33C and 32C - at idle. Do these look reasonable to you? I have not started load testing yet. Waiting for my replacement AQ5 to arrive.
> 
> 3. Considering moving to 1/2" tubing from pumps to loop input and loop output to Rad1>Rad2. Do you see this making a difference in flow rates or most importantly temps?
> 
> Lovely build! Love all the copper in the build. I am house hunting and new home do not have as much copper as your build!


That's good flow! I think you'll be happy with the temp results.

1. I'm using the AquaComputer in-line sensors...but I don't really know if they are rebranding them from Phobya. After I replaced a missing o-ring, I've had no leaks on the 3x of them in my build. I wish I could get them in white though. The black and silver throws off my mojo.

2. Those are acceptable temps at idle. Mine is idling closer to 30C for the CPU and 27 for the GPU.

3. Not sure how much impact that would have on flow...but I would guess it would be minimal. I still have lots of testing to do, but so far it doesn't look like flow rate is having much impact on my component temps at all. Minimal at best. But...that may be simply because I have SOOOOOOO much radiator space. I would think flow would be more important in a smaller loop than mine, so that it ran back through the radiator as often as possible.


----------



## Audiophile20

As to flow vs rad space, I would totally agree! I only have 2x 140.3 rads at this time. Last week I noticed CaseLabs is making a new top for M10 - AQ Copper 120mm. This is making me think that I need to get 2x 120,3 for the top of the case!! This will increase my rad space and maybe help me knock a couple degrees off 

Given your sensor experience from AQ, I will order a few and add them to the rig once I move to a house. That will work well









Good to see you are well! As always your rig looks awesome







.. compared to yours mine is all back and wires


----------



## cpachris

Picture update of progress! One of the wiring jobs I still needed to complete was some long power cable extensions from the pedestal plugs, up to the PA2 strips. If you will recall, I had previously drilled some holes in the pedestal ceiling frame and wired up all 24 fans and 2 pumps into 7 different terminating connections with normal 3-pin fan headers on them. I then made a small cut-out in the floor of the main case, so that when it sits on top of the pedestal, the 3-pin fan headers are exposed. Like this:



To connect the 3-pin headers to the PA2 strips, which are at the top of the main case on both sides of the case, I needed some long power cable extensions. I chose white connectors, 22 gauge wire, and some of my crimson colored sleeving.



The cables have a normal female connector on one end, and a hooded male connector on the other:





The hooded male end plugs into the exposed pedestal connections.



The cables run up the case, behind the PSU's, to the top cutout between the motherboard side of the case and the PSU side of the case.



From this cutout...some cables run along the PA2 strip on the PSU side, and some go through the cutout and run along the PA2 strip on the motherboard side. There are 6 PA2's on each side of the case. The wire stays tucked behind the custom mounting strip, and gets pulled over the strip to plug into the PA2 once it reaches the PA2.




So now I have all ( or most...I'm still deciding if I want fans on 360 rad on PSU side) radiator fans spinning. I want to redo some water/air delta temp testing again to see if there is any impact. Although the detla was pretty low already last time. And that was without fans spinning on the 2x bottom 480's and the 1x bottom 280 rads. Delta should stay pretty low with all these fans spinning now.

Now that I have 3x flow meters and 3 temp sensors plugged into the places I want them...the PSU side of the case is looking a little messy. Will need to sleeve these and adjust length as necessary. I may wait until I finish my flow rate testing using all the different valves. If I find a solution that is optimal...I may move away from the valve setup and into something a little cleaner looking on the PSU side...and that would change the location of the flow meters and temp sensors anyway. I'll keep it on my list.



Parting shot with all the panels in place.



More soon!


----------



## 512TBofRAM

Awesome rig, Chris









How many more steps are needed until she can be used for gaming and everyday stress?
Also, I noticed in the index a conspicuously placed "BBBB version 2.0?"... Will this actually be considered??


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *512TBofRAM*
> 
> Awesome rig, Chris
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many more steps are needed until she can be used for gaming and everyday stress?
> Also, I noticed in the index a conspicuously placed "BBBB version 2.0?"... Will this actually be considered??


no rig is ever 100% completed.


----------



## mandrix

On the AC vs Phobya inline sensors....they appear to be different. I only have one Phobya inline, and for whatever reason the thermistor takes some heavy calibration compared to the AC ones.
In fact when I redid the loop recently I pulled it out as I couldn't work it in at the time.


----------



## Radmanhs

lookin good!


----------



## Truedeal

One Large Monitor









Not serious of course.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> And yes...it is more silent than I could have hoped for.......when the raid card fan is not spinning. It's the only component without a water block, and the little fan on the booger is loud. When I unplug it...everything is so pleasantly silent. Will need to figure out a way to waterblock that card at some point.


They pretty much make generic blocks with every sort of screw mount spacing imaginable, so I bet if you poke around awhile you'll find a good fit. The alternative would be to make your own mounting bracket out of Erector Set or someone that can design one. I know what you mean though; the mini fans on the Sabertooth boards were disgustingly loud compared to all other components.

Quote:


> it looks like water/air deltas are going to be less than 2 degrees for a CPU only load....and less than 7 degrees for a CPU + GPU load


That's actually much, much higher than I imagined it would be for going through 4 rads; for your water temp, you are using the average of water-in and water-out across your radiator sub-loop, right? Also, for testing's sake, you might try not sandwiching the pedestal rads: in the sides and out the bottom would be better than in one side and out the other. You'll also want to verify that the valves are set so as to avoid any water forgetting to go through the rad sub-loop: if the flow design is the same as the one I sent, the tube between the two reservoirs should only ever flow one direction, albeit at different speeds: though this might be related to having a bum pump.

Quote:


> your monitor looks puny next to the BBBB


He just needs to get a real monitor 
http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-U2412M-LED-Monitor/dp/B005JN9310/ref=lp_1292115011_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365260503&sr=1-2
Thank you Dell for making a real monitor (16:10) instead of the squished "HD" stuff everyone makes nowadays.



Spoiler: A couple comments:



- Nice...
- When you're doing your numbers you're going to have to be pretty patient. With that much water and that many radiators it will take quite a while before you hit equilibrium.
- Try to get a water block for your RAID card before the noise drives you into madness; small, whiny fans remind me of cartoons when the character goes bug-eyed. This invokes memories of the very first system I built using a dual-CPU SOYO board and P2 Xeons, boy could that thing whine.
- Be sure to pay attention to how hot the back of the video cards get if you plan to overclock them a bunch more.
- When fiddling with the Aquaeros, remember that you _can_ use the flow meters to dictate things (if you want), but it has to be done in stages by loading profiles instead of being sources.
- If when everything is said and done you want to make your water system even more complicated, you could hook up servos to your valves and have them software-controlled. There's not really anything practical about doing that, it'd be more of a 'because you can' sort of thing.





Spoiler: A couple things that I've found out while testing my own components:



- The effectiveness of the recirculation sub-loop decreases proportionally to the difference between your heat dump and radiator dissipation (I guess this is kind of common sense though).
- I ran into non-thermal limits of overclocking before having separate CPU and GPU sub-loops became especially effective. Since you have a higher end CPU and more GPUs than I, your results may differ. Having them separate (each having higher flow rate) still helped temps a bit, but since I was nowhere near throttle temps I'm not sure it serves much purpose. Also, it seems that current caps are forced on video cards regardless of temperature: even if temp is below 40 degrees.
- Never have incoming water at the top of a reservoir if there will be any air in it; the air/water mixing it causes messes with the pH; distilled becomes acidic fairly quickly with a lot of mixing. I hit just under 5pH after only two weeks-ish of air/water mixing; since I drained and filled the reservoir completely (no air / many weeks ago) it's stayed constant at just a little below 7.
- Set your fans and pumps to change speed either by range blocks or by air/water delta because having them infinitely variable by cpu-temp or gpu-temp is extremely annoying. Even if you cannot hear them at all while running, you _can_ hear them when they change pitch.
- Running secondary blocks (ram, chipset, vrm) in parallel had no impact at all (not even 1C) on temperature, but significantly improved overall flow rate. Since you have some extra chips on your motherboard, your results may differ on the mobo block.
- At medium and high flow rates, there was no noticeable difference in GPU temps between series and parallel except that in series, the second card was always slightly higher than the first; but being in parallel significantly improved overall flow rate. At low flow rate, having the cards in series clearly gave better temps to both cards.
- Having all blocks in 2x parallel except the CPU gave noticeably lower overclock temps than when everything was in series. The most dramatic increase to flow rate I had was when I changed ram, chipset, and vrm blocks to 2x parallel from series. At stock speed, there really wasn't much difference to cpu temp regardless of flow rate.
- CPU idle core temps were slightly lower with air cooling no matter how many times I re-mounted the block. *shrug* The load temps are what really matter anyway.
- I've only hooked up all my radiators once (~120.30 worth of rad); I can't see me ever needing to turn up my fans, so I have now decided to think more of an off/on approach where the fans are either off or run at 5v and the increasing air/water delta will turn on radiators as needed. I'm also considering removing my recirculation sub-loop because with this much radiator, there simply is no purpose to it. I think you have about 120.25 worth of rad, but may end being more like 120.20 or 120.15 from sandwiching, plus you have a lot more heat dump than I, so you'll have to play around a bit to see if recirculation gives you any benefit at all.
- ... my pedestal pushes up enough air when the AP-15s are on 12v to suspend a beach ball in the air...I wasn't expecting that. I know you used different fans than I, but you might keep this mind when trying to figure out the curve for your Aquaero fan control.


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

^ That has got to be one of the longest posts from a non-OP in a build log I've ever seen.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> ^ That has got to be one of the longest posts from a non-OP in a build log I've ever seen.


My bad; it has been de-spammed.


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

I'm not complaining. You just never really see that too often.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Parting shot with all the panels in place.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Long reach down to the optical drive, how come you didn't mount it in the top slot? Plus have you considered painting it to match the colour scheme better?


----------



## TPE-331

More sleeving goodness. Great work Chris.


----------



## Khepira

Spoiler: Quote



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> They pretty much make generic blocks with every sort of screw mount spacing imaginable, so I bet if you poke around awhile you'll find a good fit. The alternative would be to make your own mounting bracket out of Erector Set or someone that can design one. I know what you mean though; the mini fans on the Sabertooth boards were disgustingly loud compared to all other components.
> That's actually much, much higher than I imagined it would be for going through 4 rads; for your water temp, you are using the average of water-in and water-out across your radiator sub-loop, right? Also, for testing's sake, you might try not sandwiching the pedestal rads: in the sides and out the bottom would be better than in one side and out the other. You'll also want to verify that the valves are set so as to avoid any water forgetting to go through the rad sub-loop: if the flow design is the same as the one I sent, the tube between the two reservoirs should only ever flow one direction, albeit at different speeds: though this might be related to having a bum pump.
> He just needs to get a real monitor
> http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-U2412M-LED-Monitor/dp/B005JN9310/ref=lp_1292115011_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365260503&sr=1-2
> Thank you Dell for making a real monitor (16:10) instead of the squished "HD" stuff everyone makes nowadays.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: A couple comments:
> 
> 
> 
> - Nice...
> - When you're doing your numbers you're going to have to be pretty patient. With that much water and that many radiators it will take quite a while before you hit equilibrium.
> - Try to get a water block for your RAID card before the noise drives you into madness; small, whiny fans remind me of cartoons when the character goes bug-eyed. This invokes memories of the very first system I built using a dual-CPU SOYO board and P2 Xeons, boy could that thing whine.
> - Be sure to pay attention to how hot the back of the video cards get if you plan to overclock them a bunch more.
> - When fiddling with the Aquaeros, remember that you _can_ use the flow meters to dictate things (if you want), but it has to be done in stages by loading profiles instead of being sources.
> - If when everything is said and done you want to make your water system even more complicated, you could hook up servos to your valves and have them software-controlled. There's not really anything practical about doing that, it'd be more of a 'because you can' sort of thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: A couple things that I've found out while testing my own components:
> 
> 
> 
> - The effectiveness of the recirculation sub-loop decreases proportionally to the difference between your heat dump and radiator dissipation (I guess this is kind of common sense though).
> - I ran into non-thermal limits of overclocking before having separate CPU and GPU sub-loops became especially effective. Since you have a higher end CPU and more GPUs than I, your results may differ. Having them separate (each having higher flow rate) still helped temps a bit, but since I was nowhere near throttle temps I'm not sure it serves much purpose. Also, it seems that current caps are forced on video cards regardless of temperature: even if temp is below 40 degrees.
> - Never have incoming water at the top of a reservoir if there will be any air in it; the air/water mixing it causes messes with the pH; distilled becomes acidic fairly quickly with a lot of mixing. I hit just under 5pH after only two weeks-ish of air/water mixing; since I drained and filled the reservoir completely (no air / many weeks ago) it's stayed constant at just a little below 7.
> - Set your fans and pumps to change speed either by range blocks or by air/water delta because having them infinitely variable by cpu-temp or gpu-temp is extremely annoying. Even if you cannot hear them at all while running, you _can_ hear them when they change pitch.
> - Running secondary blocks (ram, chipset, vrm) in parallel had no impact at all (not even 1C) on temperature, but significantly improved overall flow rate. Since you have some extra chips on your motherboard, your results may differ on the mobo block.
> - At medium and high flow rates, there was no noticeable difference in GPU temps between series and parallel except that in series, the second card was always slightly higher than the first; but being in parallel significantly improved overall flow rate. At low flow rate, having the cards in series clearly gave better temps to both cards.
> - Having all blocks in 2x parallel except the CPU gave noticeably lower overclock temps than when everything was in series. The most dramatic increase to flow rate I had was when I changed ram, chipset, and vrm blocks to 2x parallel from series. At stock speed, there really wasn't much difference to cpu temp regardless of flow rate.
> - CPU idle core temps were slightly lower with air cooling no matter how many times I re-mounted the block. *shrug* The load temps are what really matter anyway.
> - I've only hooked up all my radiators once (~120.30 worth of rad); I can't see me ever needing to turn up my fans, so I have now decided to think more of an off/on approach where the fans are either off or run at 5v and the increasing air/water delta will turn on radiators as needed. I'm also considering removing my recirculation sub-loop because with this much radiator, there simply is no purpose to it. I think you have about 120.25 worth of rad, but may end being more like 120.20 or 120.15 from sandwiching, plus you have a lot more heat dump than I, so you'll have to play around a bit to see if recirculation gives you any benefit at all.
> - ... my pedestal pushes up enough air when the AP-15s are on 12v to suspend a beach ball in the air...I wasn't expecting that. I know you used different fans than I, but you might keep this mind when trying to figure out the curve for your Aquaero fan control.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> My bad; it has been de-spammed.






As a data nut, this post was a pleasure to read. +Rep


----------



## mandrix

Yes, I have to agree he can do much better on air/water delta, but he'll get there when he figures it all out. As for all the sub loop and valving, I haven't even tried to figure it out.








I'm running 5 rads and even running Fire Strike over and over I never hit 2c delta. (heat dumped from my cpu is not so much since I delidded, so the 7950's are the major heat source).

The beauty of the Aquaero's is the ability to custom tailor fan/pump speeds. Although the alarm shutdown feature saved my bacon from a loose pump wire once.


----------



## Silveralien81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> no rig is ever 100% completed.


FACT!


----------



## Snyderman34

Absolutely crazy, even after following this thread for a while


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *512TBofRAM*
> 
> Awesome rig, Chris
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many more steps are needed until she can be used for gaming and everyday stress?
> Also, I noticed in the index a conspicuously placed "BBBB version 2.0?"... Will this actually be considered??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> no rig is ever 100% completed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silveralien81*
> 
> FACT!


Fact indeed. Never really finished. As far as how many more steps are needed....not much really. There will always be cosmetic changes/improvements...but that can be after it becomes the primary rig. The biggest thing to finish up is the disk arrays and feeling confident about storage before I move all my data over.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> On the AC vs Phobya inline sensors....they appear to be different. I only have one Phobya inline, and for whatever reason the thermistor takes some heavy calibration compared to the AC ones.
> In fact when I redid the loop recently I pulled it out as I couldn't work it in at the time.


Thanks for the info. Good to know they are different.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Long reach down to the optical drive, how come you didn't mount it in the top slot? Plus have you considered painting it to match the colour scheme better?


The reason it's not on top, is that it is longer than the card reader, and it would make it more difficult to fiddle with connections with the longer optical drive on top of the shorter card reader. I'm planning on doing a "stealth" drive where I use one of my existing 5 1/4 filler plates and make it the front of the Blu-Ray drive. No buttons or anything. Press the plate...door opens. But it's not real high on my priority list.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> lookin good!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> More sleeving goodness. Great work Chris.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Absolutely crazy, even after following this thread for a while


Thanks guys!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> They pretty much make generic blocks with every sort of screw mount spacing imaginable, so I bet if you poke around awhile you'll find a good fit. The alternative would be to make your own mounting bracket out of Erector Set or someone that can design one. I know what you mean though; the mini fans on the Sabertooth boards were disgustingly loud compared to all other components.


Yes...the X-Fan was the loudest component previously. Now with my MIPS block...I don't have that noise. Fans are quiet, pumps are quiet, all SSD's.....everything is quiet...except the Raid card fan. Must find solution. Want to start me out with a brand or something to search for?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> That's actually much, much higher than I imagined it would be for going through 4 rads; for your water temp, you are using the average of water-in and water-out across your radiator sub-loop, right? Also, for testing's sake, you might try not sandwiching the pedestal rads: in the sides and out the bottom would be better than in one side and out the other.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yes, I have to agree he can do much better on air/water delta, but he'll get there when he figures it all out. I'm running 5 rads and even running Fire Strike over and over I never hit 2c delta. (heat dumped from my cpu is not so much since I delidded, so the 7950's are the major heat source). The beauty of the Aquaero's is the ability to custom tailor fan/pump speeds. Although the alarm shutdown feature saved my bacon from a loose pump wire once.


Yeah...it will definitely get better as I tinker. And it's going through 7 rads...not 4.







Not sure I agree about the directional flow of the air being better if I changed it. There is plenty of fresh air hitting all rads with the bottom fans pulling air into the middle of the pedestal. Of course....comparing delta across different machines would require some footnotes anyway. If the blocks being used are ineffective at transferring heat to the loop, that would lower your delta...but clearly wouldn't be desirable. The more overclocked your machine is, the more heat you could be transferring to the loop, and making it tougher to keep real low delta's. Since I've chosen fans based on their ability to run silent, and not on their static pressure, .....I may not end up with a delta as low as I could have if I went with fans that had better pressure, or spun faster, ....but created a sound I wasn't happy with. For me...silence was more important than having the lowest delta possible. Would be curious if anyone had seen some testing/data on how much the component temp is lowered for every 1 degree decrease in your delta, or coolant temp. My guess....not much.

I'm testing right now with an overclock of 4.4 GHz. This was the maximum overclock I could get on my cheap air cooler, and even then I had CPU throttling going on because of temperatures hitting 90c. On water...., the average of the cores maxes out around 49c. Quite an improvement. I've got all my rad fans running now, and the water/air delta stays between 2c and 3c. It can get up to between 4c and 5c, if I run a CPU and GPU stress test at the same time. I haven't run Fire Strike yet, but I'll try that and post info here shortly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> He just needs to get a real monitor
> http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-U2412M-LED-Monitor/dp/B005JN9310/ref=lp_1292115011_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365260503&sr=1-2
> Thank you Dell for making a real monitor (16:10) instead of the squished "HD" stuff everyone makes nowadays.


Already have a Dell 27 inch for the primary rig...but thinking about getting this one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> - I ran into non-thermal limits of overclocking before having separate CPU and GPU sub-loops became especially effective. Since you have a higher end CPU and more GPUs than I, your results may differ. Having them separate (each having higher flow rate) still helped temps a bit, but since I was nowhere near throttle temps I'm not sure it serves much purpose. Also, it seems that current caps are forced on video cards regardless of temperature: even if temp is below 40 degrees.


Based on some quick passes at using the easy OC settings, I think I may end up with the same issues. I was able to use presets to get to 4.8 GHz and had no heat issues at all really. Average of cores was still below 70c. And I'm sure I can get it stable at less voltage than the presets. So we'll see. But especially with the video cards, the temps are staying real low even when I can make the card fail from too much gpu boost. If this stays true...then improving my cooling system more is futile.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> - Never have incoming water at the top of a reservoir if there will be any air in it; the air/water mixing it causes messes with the pH; distilled becomes acidic fairly quickly with a lot of mixing. I hit just under 5pH after only two weeks-ish of air/water mixing; since I drained and filled the reservoir completely (no air / many weeks ago) it's stayed constant at just a little below 7.


Haven't heard much about this. Will research. How are you measuring your pH easily? strips? Why should I care if it becomes more acidic?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> - Set your fans and pumps to change speed either by range blocks or by air/water delta because having them infinitely variable by cpu-temp or gpu-temp is extremely annoying. Even if you cannot hear them at all while running, you _can_ hear them when they change pitch.


Good point. Will probably do just that when I start tweaking controllers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> - Having all blocks in 2x parallel except the CPU gave noticeably lower overclock temps than when everything was in series. The most dramatic increase to flow rate I had was when I changed ram, chipset, and vrm blocks to 2x parallel from series. At stock speed, there really wasn't much difference to cpu temp regardless of flow rate.


I'm doing some testing right now at 4.4 GHz and different flow rates...and I'm definitely seeing a decrease in CPU temp as flow increases. I'll post some data soon.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Want to start me out with a brand or something to search for?


I'd probably start by measuring the screw holes for the current HSF on the chip and see if it matches any existing spec for GPU or CPU mounting. If not, look at some of the generic blocks available at places like frozenCPU: some of them have elongated oval mounts so-as to fit many different screw locations. For example (http://koolance.com/gpu-210-video-card-vga-chipset-water-block) and (http://koolance.com/gpu-200-video-card-vga-chipset-water-block) were designed to fit variable mounting screw positions and orientations.

Quote:


> Would be curious if anyone had seen some testing/data on how much the component temp is lowered for every 1 degree decrease in your delta, or coolant temp. My guess....not much.


Unfortunately, that is too specific to the chip and block. Per chip model, it depends mostly on what your vCore is and how good the contact is on your block mount. There's just too many variables if you want to go all the way to air/water delta: mounts, rads, tubing, fans, filters, etc, etc. If you want any good data specific to your system, you'll have to gather the data yourself with your own system and just remember to keep everything constant except the one thing you want to change to see its effect on air/water delta.

Quote:


> I've got all my rad fans running now, and the water/air delta stays between 2c and 3c. It can get up to between 4c and 5c, if I run a CPU and GPU stress test at the same time.


Keep tinkering; with 120.25 worth of radiator and rads in push/pull, I really think you ought to cap out around 2C air/water delta if everything is working well. Then again, it may just be the air or water temp measurements that need calibrated: Martin mentioned once that he takes the average temp of 3 or 4 sensors to get his air temp.

Quote:


> Already have a Dell 27 inch for the primary rig...but thinking about getting this one.


Err, sorry; was I drooling?

Quote:


> Haven't heard much about this. Will research. How are you measuring your pH easily? strips? Why should I care if it becomes more acidic?


Yes, I used strips. I actually don't know anything specific about what damage running acidic water through a cooling system might cause; I just figured acid + metal = bad, so I thought I'd mention it.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Already have a Dell 27 inch for the primary rig...but thinking about getting this one


You build is already drool awesome (coin that if I screwed my english







), it deserves something along the line of the 4K sub 40'' pro displays that creep up in the news thread (it's not like they're worth many times what BBBB's worth.









Just planting the seed of desire.


----------



## cpachris

Some initial flow vs temperature testing results. Data is meaningless without some context, so here is a summary of what I did.

I ran 4 different stress tests and the only thing I varied among each test was the rate of flow of the coolant. I accomplished the changes in the rate of flow by varying the power given to the pumps, and by adjusting the valves to create more restriction in the CPU subloop.

The stress test consisted of about 1 hour and 20 minutes of a Prime95 blended torture test run. Since I was using the blended Prime95 torture test, the test alternates between small and large FFT's. I noticed that the CPU temperatures could rise 2 to 3 degrees when the small FFT portion of the test was running, and then drop back down again when the large FFT portion was running. To keep things fair, I ran each test until 2 cycles of large FFT's were completed and 2 cycles of small FFT's were completed. I would then take the temperature recordings during the 5th pass of the test, which was a large FFT cycle.

Because of difference in temperatures for the different test cycles, I recorded both the high point of the average core temps, the low point of the average core temps, and the average of the average core temps.

My fans were left on 100% power for each of the tests.

My CPU was overclocked to 4.4 GHz for these tests, and was receiving about 1.25 volts at load to keep this setup stable.

There were no significant differences in water/air delta temperatures across the four tests, and there was not a significant difference in coolant temperatures across the four tests.

There were, however, differences measured in the CPU temperatures as the rate of flow was increased. The test was run at 0.3gpm, 0.5gpm, 0.7gpm, and 0.9gpm. The highest rate of flow I can achieve right now for the CPU subloop, with one pump not working, is 0.9 gpm. I may repeat this test once I have the pump replaced.

Here are the temperatures results for the average temperatures reached for the average across all cores:

0.3 gpm - 53.4c
0.5 gpm - 51.0c
0.7 gpm - 50.1c
0.9 gpm - 49.3c

Pretty easy to spot the decreasing temperatures as the flow rate is increased. But as usual...a picture is worth a thousand words. Here is a graph of all 3 temperature readings for all 4 flow rates:



The rate of decrease for CPU temps declines as we approach 1.0 gpm, but it looks like I might still have a little bit of room to bring temps down even more with a higher rate of flow. When I get the one bad pump replaced, we'll see if it improves things further.

I'll state again that at a 4.4 GHz overclock on my previous cheap air cooler...at the same voltage....I was getting CPU throttling due to temps reaching 90c. On water...I'm getting temps that are a full forty degrees cooler.

My initial conclusion on flow: Increasing flow rate will decrease CPU temps. But there are diminishing returns at some point...and temperatures are generally still very good at low flow rates. So increase your flow rate as much as you can for maximum cooling performance...but don't stress too much about flow rate because even a relative trickle (0.3 gpm) will cool your components much more effectively than air coolers will.

I'm going to do some similar tests now for my GPU's and using the EVGA Furry-Tessy Donut stress test...and vary flow rates like above. Just because my CPU responds favorably to increased flow...doesn't necessarily mean that my GPU's will. Need to test and see, so I can determine the optimum valve positioning and desired flow rate.


----------



## socketus

Very basic and VERY informative to this wc noob. But I gotta ask as a former trumpet player - *"the optimum valve positioning"* - where are the valves in a WC build ? For real, its stumping my brain


----------



## cpachris

I finished some more flow vs temperature testing. This time I was looking at the GPU temps instead of the CPU temps. Data is meaningless without some context, so here is a summary of what I did.

I ran 4 different stress tests and the only thing I varied among each test was the rate of flow of the coolant. I accomplished the changes in the rate of flow by varying the power given to the pumps, and by adjusting the valves to create more restriction in the GPU subloop.

The stress test consisted of about 1 hour and 20 minutes of the EVGA Furry-Tessy Donut stress test. Of the different EVGA options, this test keeps the GPU's loaded the most. The heat produced by this test is more consistent than the blended Prime95 test for the CPU which had the cycling between small and large FFT's. But even though the variance between low and high temperatures was much less with this GPU testing than with the CPU testing, I recorded both the high point of the average core temps, the low point of the average core temps, and the average of the average core temps.

My fans were left on 100% power for each of the tests.

My CPU was overclocked to 4.4 GHz for these tests, and was receiving about 1.25 volts at load to keep this setup stable. The GPU's are currently receiving no GPU boost at all.

Although it was not significant, there was a small increase in the loop coolant temp, and thus the water/air delta, as the rate of flow was increased. I am assuming this is because it was doing a better job at transferring heat from the GPU's to the coolant with the higher flow.

There were more significant differences measured in the GPU temperatures as the rate of flow was increased. The test was run at 0.2gpm, 0.4gpm, 0.6gpm, and 0.8gpm. The highest rate of flow I can achieve right now for the GPU subloop, with one pump not working, is 0.8 gpm. I may repeat this test once I have the pump replaced.

Here are the temperatures results for the high temperatures reached for the average across all cores:

0.2 gpm - 44.0c
0.4 gpm - 40.7c
0.6 gpm - 39.0c
0.8 gpm - 37.0c

Pretty easy to spot the decreasing temperatures as the flow rate is increased. But as usual...a picture is worth a thousand words. Here is a graph of all 3 temperature readings for all 4 flow rates:



Unlike the CPU testing, the graph for the GPU testing does not show a diminishing rate of return as flow is increased from 0.6 to 0.8 gpm. The rate of flow is being measured for the what is sent to the entire GPU subloop. Because the GPU blocks are in parallel....each card is getting about 1/2 of this rate of flow. I think more flow would decrease these temps even more.

When I would run this same test with the stock air coolers for the 690's, I would get temperatures exceeding 80c pretty quickly...and they would sometimes sneak up as high as 90c. On water...I'm getting temps that are a full fifty degrees cooler.

My initial conclusion on flow for the GPU's: Increasing flow rate will decrease GPU temps, and I have not yet hit the point of diminishing returns with subloop flow at 0.8 gpm (or 0.4 gpm per block). So increase your flow rate as much as you can for maximum cooling performance...but don't stress too much if you have a low flow rate because even a relative trickle (0.2 gpm) will cool your components much more effectively than air coolers will.

I may look into getting an additional pump for the GPU subloop. I'd like to find out how much I can keep decreasing temps with more flow. Plus, the D5 pumps seem to be so quiet that I can't think of any significant downside to adding another.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Very basic and VERY informative to this wc noob. But I gotta ask as a former trumpet player - *"the optimum valve positioning"* - where are the valves in a WC build ? For real, its stumping my brain


socketus....look at the picture below:



There are three valves in the sides of the square built with white fittings. You'll see the black handle on each of them. I can turn the handle and close the valve, which shuts off all flow. Or I can partially close them which increases restriction....allowing me to push water towards a different subloop if desired. By simply opening/closing these valves, I can proportionately adjust the rate of flow in each of the subloops.

There is a post a couple of pages back explaining the letters and numbers in the chart.


----------



## Master__Shake

that is one sweet case, i got scared on Caselabs webiste when it said send a pic of your cart and shipping address...

me thinks expensive to ship to canada.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> socketus....look at the picture below:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are three valves in the sides of the square built with white fittings. You'll see the black handle on each of them. I can turn the handle and close the valve, which shuts off all flow. Or I can partially close them which increases restriction....allowing me to push water towards a different subloop if desired. By simply opening/closing these valves, I can proportionately adjust the rate of flow in each of the subloops.
> 
> There is a post a couple of pages back explaining the letters and numbers in the chart.


LOL< scooze me while I Kiss the SKY !!!

I really missed out on that one, I'm thinking of the pump's internals, trying to match that up with the trumpet's valves. Sometimes the air in Kansas is REALLY THIN


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> socketus....look at the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> There are three valves in the sides of the square built with white fittings. You'll see the black handle on each of them. I can turn the handle and close the valve, which shuts off all flow. Or I can partially close them which increases restriction....allowing me to push water towards a different subloop if desired. By simply opening/closing these valves, I can proportionately adjust the rate of flow in each of the subloops.
> 
> There is a post a couple of pages back explaining the letters and numbers in the chart.






I Envy the double wide cases. I think thats a awesome looking picture.
Nice work.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Wow. I would really like to see what 2gpm or so would do.

I looks like you are getting some turbulance or somethiong at .4- .6 causing the temps to go down less.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> I may look into getting an additional pump for the GPU subloop. I'd like to find out how much I can keep decreasing temps with more flow. Plus, the D5 pumps seem to be so quiet that I can't think of any significant downside to adding another.


How do you have the radiators setup? If you recall, in the diagrams I sent to you I had set your AMS rads into parallel since each of those has about the same restriction as a water block (since they're 4-pass). To my thinking, that'd help your flow rates more than adding a pump. Could you maybe sketch a flow diagram of what you currently have, including everything that touches the water?


----------



## cpachris

Been working on my storage arrays. Recap for the late comers...here is what is planned:

1) Raid 0 - 2 drives - Vertex4 256GB - 0.5 TB total - Intel drivers - To be used for OS and Programs
2) Raid 0 - 4 drives - Vertex4 256GB - 1.0 TB total - LSI HBA - To be used for scratch disks and temp files
3) Raid 5 - 10 drives - Vertex4 512GB - 5.0 TB total - Areca 1882ix - To be used for primary storage

I've had the 1st array up and running for awhile with no issues. I spent yesterday upgrading the firmware on the Areca card, getting the latest drivers installed, and building the array. Everything went smoothly, and the the Raid 5 array is up and running. Still don't like how loud that little raid card fan is...but I'll deal with that later. Anyway...after getting the Raid 5 array working...I started having similar issues to what I had last time I had the raid card running. Lock ups, freezes, etc. But they all appear to be coming from the Raid 0 array this time. The Raid 5 array seems to be fairly solid. But the Raid 0 array keeps having one of the disks report an error and then lock up the system. I can restart, and mark the disk as normal in the Intel Rapid Storage Tools management console, and everything works fine again for a little bit...but then when the disk is stressed, it happens again. I'm using the RST drivers...not the RSTe.

I think I'm going to try and eliminate physical drive issues as the culprit by reinstalling windows 7 on a different set of disks, and see if I get the same issues. Need to determine if its some type of driver conflict that happens when the raid card is installed, or a problem with the actual drives themselves. Will report more soon. Already started the Windows 7 reinstallation. Always hate how long that takes. Installation, driver updates, utilities, and then all the Windows Updates....takes several hours. Ugh.


----------



## Hattifnatten

5tb of SSD for storage


----------



## Electrocutor

You may want consider RAID6 instead of RAID5.

The Sandy Bridge E chipset requires the RSTe drivers.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> 5tb of SSD for storage


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You may want consider RAID6 instead of RAID5.
> 
> The Sandy Bridge E chipset requires the RSTe drivers.


If I ever get a couple more SSD's...I may consider moving to Raid6 instead of Raid5...but right now I don't want to give up the space.

Are you sure about the RSTe drivers? I'm pretty sure that X79 boards can use either.


----------



## madbrayniak

How much would you lose by going to Raid 6?


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madbrayniak*
> 
> How much would you lose by going to Raid 6?


I think he would get 4.5 Tb of storage from raid 5 and 4 Tb from raid 6
Please correct me if i'm wrong.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Are you sure about the RSTe drivers? I'm pretty sure that X79 boards can use either.


I was under the impression that the RST drivers only work with X79 in AHCI mode, not RAID mode. When I attempted to use RST drivers on my own board, RST just crashes on startup (it throws an error in the Application event log). Installing RSTe gave me no problems.


----------



## madbrayniak

I thought this may be of interest to you:

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/%5Bprimary-term%5D/highpoint_rocketcache_3240x8_review

I *HOPE* that something is done to make this a bootable drive...it would be really nice to have 1x3TB HDD and 3x128gb+

I would never have to delete a videogame again...haha


----------



## sandmen04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I was under the impression that the RST drivers only work with X79 in AHCI mode, not RAID mode. When I attempted to use RST drivers on my own board, RST just crashes on startup (it throws an error in the Application event log). Installing RSTe gave me no problems.


There is mod-bios running around that make it possible to use the RST driver on X79 platform especially to use the trim function in raid mode.
Need to flash the bios with the mod-bios to use RST driver.
no trim in raid mode with RST-E driver on X79 officially for the moment from intel.
Asrock make it possible to choose in the bios to enable RST or RST-E driver, to use trim in raid mode.
I known asus does not wont to make there bios like Asrock, to give you the choice of driver RST or RST-e, but there are quite many mod-bios out there for asus X79.
I don't known if there is one for your sabertooth, there none for me, that one thing for sure. skulltrail boy

this trade is so big i can't find my own post to point you in the right direction for the mod-bios.

back to the trade, very impressive job you done there


----------



## xandervanhousen

Success! Finally caught up. Hope to see the finished product with all the kinks worked out soon- I am doing my first build and it is extremely frustrating at times.


----------



## tpb211

Hi Chris,

Sorry I've been away from this site for awhile. Your thread reminds me I need to finish posting the rest of my build log. Couple questions for you.

Did you ever find a way to address dust on the intake side beyond shooting it with compressed air after it cakes up?

Are you throttling your fans via the PA2's and if so how much and what temps are you seeing on the PA2's?

And finally is the latest version of Aquasuite working worth a darn for you?

Thanks for being an inspiration, now I just need to get off my butt and finish posting pics of my build, didn't realize there was a caselabs contest *sigh*

TPB211


----------



## cpachris

Storage Testing Update.....

I finished the fresh Windows reinstallation on two different SSD's than the ones that had been throwing some errors for me. This time, I didn't even install the Intel RST or RSTe drivers...and instead used the generic Windows drivers. Used the same 2 SDD Raid0 setup for the boot drive. After about 4 days of running lots of disk stress tests and benchmarks, I didn't have a single error....so I think I can claim victory on the 2 disk Raid0 array and the 10 disk Raid5 array. However, since I didn't use the Intel drivers at all, I guess I still don't know for sure if it was the physical disks that were previously the issue, or if it was some type of driver issue. I may go ahead and test that by installing the RST drivers on my new boot drive....or I could uninstall the RST drivers on the old boot drive. I also might play with some benchmarks between the Windows driver and the Intel driver to see if there is any real compelling reason to move to the Intel drivers anyway.

I still need to get the 4 disk Raid0 array, powered by the LSI chip, up and running also...so I'll start tinkering with that.

But I'm going to take a small break from storage testing...and do some temperature testing on the AquaComputer PA2 amps...so I can adequately answer tpb211's question above. Back with that shortly....


----------



## Whatts

Chris, do you moonlight as the energizer bunny? Keeps on going, and going...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Are you throttling your fans via the PA2's and if so how much and what temps are you seeing on the PA2's?


Your question spurred me to log some data. As most people are aware, as you decrease the voltage on your fans to slow them down, the PA2 generates more heat. I definitely have seen the PA2 temps in some pretty large ranges as I've made adjustments along the way. The other thing that impacts the PA2 temp is any cooling you have for the. Mine are all mounted on an aluminum strip I made that is located right underneath the fans at the top of my case. Picture below:



So to really answer your question...I need to take temperature readings with the fans spinning at different speeds. These fans have a large impact on the PA2 temps. I chose three different fan speeds to illustrate the differences. 1) Full speed....which is 1,250 rpm's for these fans: 2) Minimum speed....which is about 500 rpm's for these fans; and 3) No fans at all....turned them off. This will give you an idea on how large the impact is with the fans.

But of course...my answer will also be different for others, based on what type of fan they are driving. The higher the current draw for the fans....the more heat is generated when you undervolt the fans. Four of my PA2's are driving 8x Noiseblocker M12-S2 fans each....for a total of 32 fans. These fans don't have a real high current draw. With 8x of them on one channel and running at full speed, the PA2 is reporting about 0.7 amps for the entire channel.

Here is a chart showing the temperature readings for the PA2's while driving fans at full speed (12 volts) and at minimum speed (about 4.3 volts), for each of the 3 cooling fan scenarios (1250, 500, and 0)



Here you can see that the PA2 temp can be as low as just 30c when the fans being driven are running at full speed and the cooling fans are also running at full speed. The PA2 temp can be as high as 58c when the fans being driven are running at minimum speed and the cooling fans are turned off. Either way...the temperature of the PA2 is never an issue when running 8x Noiseblocker M12-S2 fans....even if you have no active cooling for the PA2.

I should also point out that positioning of the PA2's next to each other had a small impact on temperature also. The temp reading from the PA2 that was located next to a PA2 that was driving one of the D5 pumps...was always between 1 and 3 degrees higher than the temp for a PA2 that was not next to something generating that much heat. Ambient room temp was about 24c when all of these readings were taken.

Speaking of D5 pumps.....next, I ran the same tests but took the temperature readings from the PA2 that is driving one of my D5 pumps. The D5 has a current draw of about 1.9 amps, instead of the 0.7 amps for the 8x NB fans. Clearly this should create more heat if you use the D5 to undervolt the pumps.

I took the temperature readings at 3 pumps speeds (8 volts, 10 volts and 12 volts). These voltages corresponded to an approximate 3,200 rpm; 4,000 rpm; and 4,500 rpm. I also used the same 3 speeds for the cooling fans (1,250 rpm; 500 rpm; and zero rpm). Here is the chart:



The blue line shows the temp of the PA2 with the D5 running at full speed. It ranges from a low of 34c with the cooling fans at full speed...to a high of 51c with no active cooling at all. Not a problem.

The red line shows the temp of the PA2 with the D5 undervolted to 10 volts. It ranges from a low of 44c to a high of 72c! More than 20c higher than the temps when the D5 is running at full speed. But...72c still won't cause any issues...so anyone should be OK driving a D5 with no active cooling at all.

I had problems when I went to 8 volts. The pump ran fine with the cooling fans on the PA2....but when I turned the cooling fans completely off....the PA2 would quickly reach a temp of 80c, and would throttle by upping the volts back to 12 volts. It would only take about 4 or 5 seconds...and then the PA2 would drop the volts back down to 8...but would very quickly reach 80c again and throttle.

From memory...I thought that the PA2 was supposed to throttle at 95c....but maybe I have that wrong...or maybe the temp reading is just maxing out at 80c even though the real temp is higher. Not sure. Anyway...this shows that if you want to really undervolt a D5 with your PA2...you should consider getting some active cooling. I'd be interested to hear from others using a PA2 to drive a D5...and see whether you get similar results on your system. Let me know!

But...to be honest...the D5 pumps are so quiet even at full blast...that I probably won't undervolt these much at all.

Hope that answers your question tpb211!


----------



## sandmen04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Storage Testing Update.....
> 
> I finished the fresh Windows reinstallation on two different SSD's than the ones that had been throwing some errors for me. This time, I didn't even install the Intel RST or RSTe drivers...and instead used the generic Windows drivers. Used the same 2 SDD Raid0 setup for the boot drive. After about 4 days of running lots of disk stress tests and benchmarks, I didn't have a single error....so I think I can claim victory on the 2 disk Raid0 array and the 10 disk Raid5 array. However, since I didn't use the Intel drivers at all, I guess I still don't know for sure if it was the physical disks that were previously the issue, or if it was some type of driver issue. I may go ahead and test that by installing the RST drivers on my new boot drive....or I could uninstall the RST drivers on the old boot drive. I also might play with some benchmarks between the Windows driver and the Intel driver to see if there is any real compelling reason to move to the Intel drivers anyway.
> 
> I still need to get the 4 disk Raid0 array, powered by the LSI chip, up and running also...so I'll start tinkering with that.
> 
> But I'm going to take a small break from storage testing...and do some temperature testing on the AquaComputer PA2 amps...so I can adequately answer tpb211's question above. Back with that shortly....


For what it is ? my humble opinion.
I was making a big scene about trim, when a got my ssd, because i did not know how awesome the new controller these day, was doing the garbage collection.


----------



## tpb211

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Your question spurred me to log some data. As most people are aware, as you decrease the voltage on your fans to slow them down, the PA2 generates more heat. I definitely have seen the PA2 temps in some pretty large ranges as I've made adjustments along the way. The other thing that impacts the PA2 temp is any cooling you have for the. Mine are all mounted on an aluminum strip I made that is located right underneath the fans at the top of my case. Picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> So to really answer your question...I need to take temperature readings with the fans spinning at different speeds. These fans have a large impact on the PA2 temps. I chose three different fan speeds to illustrate the differences. 1) Full speed....which is 1,250 rpm's for these fans: 2) Minimum speed....which is about 500 rpm's for these fans; and 3) No fans at all....turned them off. This will give you an idea on how large the impact is with the fans.
> 
> But of course...my answer will also be different for others, based on what type of fan they are driving. The higher the current draw for the fans....the more heat is generated when you undervolt the fans. Four of my PA2's are driving 8x Noiseblocker M12-S2 fans each....for a total of 32 fans. These fans don't have a real high current draw. With 8x of them on one channel and running at full speed, the PA2 is reporting about 0.7 amps for the entire channel.
> 
> Here is a chart showing the temperature readings for the PA2's while driving fans at full speed (12 volts) and at minimum speed (about 4.3 volts), for each of the 3 cooling fan scenarios (1250, 500, and 0)
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see that the PA2 temp can be as low as just 30c when the fans being driven are running at full speed and the cooling fans are also running at full speed. The PA2 temp can be as high as 58c when the fans being driven are running at minimum speed and the cooling fans are turned off. Either way...the temperature of the PA2 is never an issue when running 8x Noiseblocker M12-S2 fans....even if you have no active cooling for the PA2.
> 
> I should also point out that positioning of the PA2's next to each other had a small impact on temperature also. The temp reading from the PA2 that was located next to a PA2 that was driving one of the D5 pumps...was always between 1 and 3 degrees higher than the temp for a PA2 that was not next to something generating that much heat. Ambient room temp was about 24c when all of these readings were taken.
> 
> Speaking of D5 pumps.....next, I ran the same tests but took the temperature readings from the PA2 that is driving one of my D5 pumps. The D5 has a current draw of about 1.9 amps, instead of the 0.7 amps for the 8x NB fans. Clearly this should create more heat if you use the D5 to undervolt the pumps.
> 
> I took the temperature readings at 3 pumps speeds (8 volts, 10 volts and 12 volts). These voltages corresponded to an approximate 3,200 rpm; 4,000 rpm; and 4,500 rpm. I also used the same 3 speeds for the cooling fans (1,250 rpm; 500 rpm; and zero rpm). Here is the chart:
> 
> 
> 
> The blue line shows the temp of the PA2 with the D5 running at full speed. It ranges from a low of 34c with the cooling fans at full speed...to a high of 51c with no active cooling at all. Not a problem.
> 
> The red line shows the temp of the PA2 with the D5 undervolted to 10 volts. It ranges from a low of 44c to a high of 72c! More than 20c higher than the temps when the D5 is running at full speed. But...72c still won't cause any issues...so anyone should be OK driving a D5 with no active cooling at all.
> 
> I had problems when I went to 8 volts. The pump ran fine with the cooling fans on the PA2....but when I turned the cooling fans completely off....the PA2 would quickly reach a temp of 80c, and would throttle by upping the volts back to 12 volts. It would only take about 4 or 5 seconds...and then the PA2 would drop the volts back down to 8...but would very quickly reach 80c again and throttle.
> 
> From memory...I thought that the PA2 was supposed to throttle at 95c....but maybe I have that wrong...or maybe the temp reading is just maxing out at 80c even though the real temp is higher. Not sure. Anyway...this shows that if you want to really undervolt a D5 with your PA2...you should consider getting some active cooling. I'd be interested to hear from others using a PA2 to drive a D5...and see whether you get similar results on your system. Let me know!
> 
> But...to be honest...the D5 pumps are so quiet even at full blast...that I probably won't undervolt these much at all.
> 
> Hope that answers your question tpb211!


Thank you a ton for taking the time to do the comparisons! Your findings echo the pretty much the experience I am seeing with the yo-yo throttling occurring at 80c. AS13-2 is reporting a max load of 1.36a on one of my PA's (4 NB B12-4's) with 43c at 100% (no active cooling) and at 50% the temp reaches the 80c limit. (I do have 6 PA2Ultra's in close proximity)

One last question for you, I am noticing that in AS13-2 my PA's when set to 100% are not reaching a full 12volts I am seeing anywhere from 10.8-11V. Can you tell me if AS is reporting a full 12v for your PA's?

Again many thanks for providing the information you did, it was most helpful!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Your findings echo the pretty much the experience I am seeing with the yo-yo throttling occurring at 80c. AS13-2 is reporting a max load of 1.36a on one of my PA's (4 NB B12-4's) with 43c at 100% (no active cooling) and at 50% the temp reaches the 80c limit. (I do have 6 PA2Ultra's in close proximity)
> 
> One last question for you, I am noticing that in AS13-2 my PA's when set to 100% are not reaching a full 12volts I am seeing anywhere from 10.8-11V. Can you tell me if AS is reporting a full 12v for your PA's?


I get anywhere from about 11.6 to 11.8 volts. Never had something go as low as 10.8. Probably not a big issue if its just fans you are driving anyway....but that is a pretty big drop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> How do you have the radiators setup? If you recall, in the diagrams I sent to you I had set your AMS rads into parallel since each of those has about the same restriction as a water block (since they're 4-pass). To my thinking, that'd help your flow rates more than adding a pump. Could you maybe sketch a flow diagram of what you currently have, including everything that touches the water?


I don't have the AMS rads in parallel right now...just because it would have complicated the loop a little more...but I still may try it at some point. I'll do a diagram soon....and it can serve as a sounding board for suggestions. I'm always up for tinkering.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madbrayniak*
> 
> How much would you lose by going to Raid 6?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> I think he would get 4.5 Tb of storage from raid 5 and 4 Tb from raid 6
> Please correct me if i'm wrong.


Pebruska is on the right track. Because the actually usable portion of the drive is less than 0.5 TB...I actually end up with about 4.2 TB of usable space in a Raid5 configuration, and would probably have more like 3.85 TB in a Raid6 configuration. That would actually be enough for right now...but wouldn't last more than a year or two with the current growth rate in storage needs I'm experiencing. Lots of pictures and video. I'd like to always keep at least one hot spare in the array...and still have some room to grow it if the need arises. By the time these SSD's need to be replaced...maybe there will be some good 1TB SSD drives available.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Did you ever find a way to address dust on the intake side beyond shooting it with compressed air after it cakes up?
> 
> And finally is the latest version of Aquasuite working worth a darn for you?


Not really looking for a different dust solution. Filters are just not for me. I think they distract from the aesthetics of a build, and anything that is effective at trapping dust...is restricting airflow at least some. And I actually find blasting the rads with my air compressor much more fun than cleaning filters out. Either way you have to clean up dust. You either clean the filter...or you clean the rads. I prefer to clean the rads.

Aquasuite 2013-2 shuts down on me more than any other piece of software I've ever used. And when it shuts down, you have to restart the machine to get it recognize the AQ5's again. The shutdowns occur when making changes to controller values. So...it's a pain to configure the controllers. But...the graphing and charting functions of Aquasuite are mesmerizing to me....love to play with that stuff. No big issues there. So once you get everything setup the way you want it...it's not that big of a headache.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Chris, do you moonlight as the energizer bunny? Keeps on going, and going...


Rabbit wearing shades...banging a drum. Cool.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Aquasuite 2013-2 shuts down on me more than any other piece of software I've ever used. And when it shuts down, you have to restart the machine to get it recognize the AQ5's again.


This is why I'm second-guessing how I want to control my own setup. The software piece is needed in order to interact with AIDA64 to get CPU and GPU temps; so you either have to ignore them completely or find an alternative. Have you ever had the AQ5 itself lock up?


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> This is why I'm second-guessing how I want to control my own setup. The software piece is needed in order to interact with AIDA64 to get CPU and GPU temps; so you either have to ignore them completely or find an alternative. Have you ever had the AQ5 itself lock up?


You're using the PA to drive your D5's? I'm very confused? Why not use the PWM or USB versions of the D5?

Likewise interested in your aquaero results. I was thinking of putting in three aquaeros into my setup (workstation cpu loop, gaming cpu loop, gaming gpu loop - yes I know I could drop one, but then I'd need a PA and it fills up the pedestal bays nicely)

Do you need to have AS running once everything is setup? I had assumed it could be setup and then forgotten about. The reason I ask is that my workstation runs linux, I can setup the aquaero via a windows VM, but I want it to be independent for day to day use controlling the fans and pumps as it should without needing the VM.


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> You're using the PA to drive your D5's? I'm very confused? Why not use the PWM or USB versions of the D5?


I don't think they were available yet back when this build started.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> This is why I'm second-guessing how I want to control my own setup. The software piece is needed in order to interact with AIDA64 to get CPU and GPU temps; so you either have to ignore them completely or find an alternative. Have you ever had the AQ5 itself lock up?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> You're using the PA to drive your D5's? I'm very confused? Why not use the PWM or USB versions of the D5?
> 
> Likewise interested in your aquaero results. I was thinking of putting in three aquaeros into my setup (workstation cpu loop, gaming cpu loop, gaming gpu loop - yes I know I could drop one, but then I'd need a PA and it fills up the pedestal bays nicely)
> 
> Do you need to have AS running once everything is setup? I had assumed it could be setup and then forgotten about. The reason I ask is that my workstation runs linux, I can setup the aquaero via a windows VM, but I want it to be independent for day to day use controlling the fans and pumps as it should without needing the VM.


I've never had the AQ5 unit itself lockup. The hardware and firmware seem pretty solid. It's only Aquasuite 2013 that is so flaky. And maybe it's only flaky with multiple AQ5 units...not sure...since that is the only way I have ever used it. However, Aquasuite 2013 is only flaky when you are making changes in controllers. I've never had it lockup or flake-out on me if I wasn't tinkering with it. So...once you use Aquasuite to setup the Aquaero's....you could close it and not have it start upon boot. The "Aqua Computer Service" service still has to be running...but Aquasuite 2013 does not have to be running. Right now I have used Aquasuite 2013 to setup the data service to gather CPU temps that I'm using in an LED controller. It gathers the data from Aida64. But I don't need Aquasuite 2013 open for it to continue to working. I don't have it minimized to the system tray either....it's not open. Aquasuite 2013 does not need to be running to gather the sensor data from Aida64....you just have to use it to set that up in the first place.

As far as pump selection...the Aquacomputer USB D5 was not released yet when I bought these...but I probably wouldn't go that direction anyway unless there is a pump dress-up kit for it that I haven't see yet. Don't like the looks of the back side at all. Regarding PWM versions of the D5...I remember having found someone that claimed that the PWM version was not as quiet as the D5 vario that you control with voltage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> I don't think they were available yet back when this build started.


ouch.







but correct.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've never had the AQ5 unit itself lockup. The hardware and firmware seem pretty solid. It's only Aquasuite 2013 that is so flaky. And maybe it's only flaky with multiple AQ5 units...not sure...since that is the only way I have ever used it. However, Aquasuite 2013 is only flaky when you are making changes in controllers. I've never had it lockup or flake-out on me if I wasn't tinkering with it. So...once you use Aquasuite to setup the Aquaero's....you could close it and not have it start upon boot. The "Aqua Computer Service" service still has to be running...but Aquasuite 2013 does not have to be running. Right now I have used Aquasuite 2013 to setup the data service to gather CPU temps that I'm using in an LED controller. It gathers the data from Aida64. But I don't need Aquasuite 2013 open for it to continue to working. I don't have it minimized to the system tray either....it's not open. Aquasuite 2013 does not need to be running to gather the sensor data from Aida64....you just have to use it to set that up in the first place.
> 
> As far as pump selection...the Aquacomputer USB D5 was not released yet when I bought these...but I probably wouldn't go that direction anyway unless there is a pump dress-up kit for it that I haven't see yet. Don't like the looks of the back side at all. Regarding PWM versions of the D5...I remember having found someone that claimed that the PWM version was not as quiet as the D5 vario that you control with voltage.
> ouch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but correct.


It can be but usually not - it's all about resonance with D5's though so it depends on your decoupling:










Interesting - the VM doesn't get any CPU temperature information though so I didn't want the aquaero to use that. I was hoping it could just control the fans and pumps based on coolant temperature (preferably coolant - air temperature delta)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> It can be but usually not - it's all about resonance with D5's though so it depends on your decoupling:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting - the VM doesn't get any CPU temperature information though so I didn't want the aquaero to use that. I was hoping it could just control the fans and pumps based on coolant temperature (preferably coolant - air temperature delta)


I hadn't seen that review by Martin. Looks like it was posted during my Ingress induced break I took from the build.







Since I have to replace one of my four D5's anyway...perhaps I'll get the PWM version since it will fit into the same pump dress-up kit...and see what I think in person. His review was pretty positive. That would have the added benefit of freeing up one of my 12x PA2's.

I think the AQ5 would do the trick for what you are wanting to do. I LOVE the automated fan control. Just hate the software to get it done.







I haven't finished all my temp testing...but I think I'm going to be able to have the AQ5 completely shut-off most of the fans when the computer is idling. The temperatures stay very reasonable even with no fans spinning.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> I was hoping it could just control the fans and pumps based on coolant temperature (preferably coolant - air temperature delta)


I was thinking about this as I initially wanted to base fan speeds on air/water delta. After thinking it through though, I believe it makes more logical sense to base fan speed on (water @ rad out) - (average of 3 air intake). This is because even if your air/water delta is above 0, if the water coming out of your rads is 0 degrees different from air temp, increasing fan speed would not improve anything.

The pump speed ought to based on (water @ rad in) - (average of 3 air intake) because as your CPUs and GPUs work harder at low flow rates, the water temp increases and increasing the flow rate will both decrease the water temp (heat spread across more water) and decrease the CPU and GPU temps (increased heat transfer).

Quote:


> I think I'm going to be able to have the AQ5 completely shut-off most of the fans when the computer is idling. The temperatures stay very reasonable even with no fans spinning.


Be sure to have the fan blocks staggered inversely to your water flow as well, so when the first block of fans first turns on their lowest, the second+ blocks remain off unless they are needed. The difference in temp could be pretty low between the stagger, but it would still help reduce overall noise if only the fans that needed to be on were running.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I hadn't seen that review by Martin. Looks like it was posted during my Ingress induced break I took from the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have to replace one of my four D5's anyway...perhaps I'll get the PWM version since it will fit into the same pump dress-up kit...and see what I think in person. His review was pretty positive. That would have the added benefit of freeing up one of my 12x PA2's.
> 
> I think the AQ5 would do the trick for what you are wanting to do. I LOVE the automated fan control. Just hate the software to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't finished all my temp testing...but I think I'm going to be able to have the AQ5 completely shut-off most of the fans when the computer is idling. The temperatures stay very reasonable even with no fans spinning.


Cool







Yeah in my experience you can turn the fans off for about about 30 minutes when idling, but at some point the coolant eventually rises high enough. Mind you fans at 500rpm are usually much quieter than pumps and PSUs anyway (assuming your PSU fans don't turn off automatically).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I was thinking about this as I initially wanted to base fan speeds on air/water delta. After thinking it through though, I believe it makes more logical sense to base fan speed on (water @ rad out) - (average of 3 air intake). This is because even if your air/water delta is above 0, if the water coming out of your rads is 0 degrees different from air temp, increasing fan speed would not improve anything.
> 
> The pump speed ought to based on (water @ rad in) - (average of 3 air intake) because as your CPUs and GPUs work harder at low flow rates, the water temp increases and increasing the flow rate will both decrease the water temp (heat spread across more water) and decrease the CPU and GPU temps (increased heat transfer).
> Be sure to have the fan blocks staggered inversely to your water flow as well, so when the first block of fans first turns on their lowest, the second+ blocks remain off unless they are needed. The difference in temp could be pretty low between the stagger, but it would still help reduce overall noise if only the fans that needed to be on were running.


True - can the aquaero map the PWM output based on different inputs vs the FAN voltages? This all assumes your ambient is fairly stable of course.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> This all assumes your ambient is fairly stable of course.


Actually no, this would work well at all varying ambient temps during seasonal changes since both fans and pumps would be based on the difference of water temps vs air temp. Though considering short-term changes, such as a furnace increasing ambient by 4 degrees; I'm not sure what the AQ5 would do if it got negative values (ambient > water).

Fans1 = Water Rad Out - Air In, min 0%
Fans2 = (Water Rad Out - 0.2) - Air In, min 0%
Fans3 = (Water Rad Out - 0.4) - Air In, min 0%
Fans4 = (Water Rad Out - 0.6) - Air In, min 0%
Pumps = Water Rad In - Air In, min 10%

The fan offset per fan block would depend on the accuracy of the temp sensors that you were using. Meaning if they are +/- 1 degree, then you wouldn't be able to use partial degrees.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Actually no, this would work well at all varying ambient temps during seasonal changes since both fans and pumps would be based on the difference of water temps vs air temp. Though considering short-term changes, such as a furnace increasing ambient by 4 degrees; I'm not sure what the AQ5 would do if it got negative values (ambient > water).
> 
> Fans1 = Water Rad Out - Air In, min 0%
> Fans2 = (Water Rad Out - 0.2) - Air In, min 0%
> Fans3 = (Water Rad Out - 0.4) - Air In, min 0%
> Fans4 = (Water Rad Out - 0.6) - Air In, min 0%
> Pumps = Water Rad In - Air In, min 10%
> 
> The fan offset per fan block would depend on the accuracy of the temp sensors that you were using. Meaning if they are +/- 1 degree, then you wouldn't be able to use partial degrees.


Agreed it would work - i just mean for extreme summer ambients you may want to put a firm limit on maximum coolant temperature. So the aquaero will let you program this for sure?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> extreme summer ambients you may want to put a firm limit on maximum coolant temperature.


You mean so it will shut down if the rig gets too hot? That would be done elsewhere.
Quote:


> So the aquaero will let you program this for sure?


I don't have one in front of me, and I know there are limits, but I don't believe I'm getting anywhere close to the limit here except for the average. From what I've read, I'm pretty sure you can only have 3 temp sensors used to make a virtual sensor (hence why I chose 3 air sensors instead of the usual four to average). There is a limit of 4 virtual sensors you can make per AQ5.

Virtual Temps:
V1 = Ambient = (AirIn1 + AirIn2 + AirIn3) / 3
V2 = RadInDelta = (RadIn - Ambient)
V3 = RadOutDelta = (RadOut - Ambient)
V4 = ??? I suppose you could do (RadInDelta + RadOutDelta) / 2 for DeltaT if you wanted


----------



## tpb211

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You mean so it will shut down if the rig gets too hot? That would be done elsewhere.
> I don't have one in front of me, and I know there are limits, but I don't believe I'm getting anywhere close to the limit here except for the average. From what I've read, I'm pretty sure you can only have 3 temp sensors used to make a virtual sensor (hence why I chose 3 air sensors instead of the usual four to average). There is a limit of 4 virtual sensors you can make per AQ5.


You are correct, total of 4 Virtual sensors each with 3 temp sensors used. Trying out some of these idea's atm as well, thanks for providing some great ideas guys!


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> You are correct, total of 4 Virtual sensors each with 3 temp sensors used. Trying out some of these idea's atm as well, thanks for providing some great ideas guys!


Let us know how it goes


----------



## mandrix

I use air/water delta for my fans and pumps and curve controllers. I find the result very acceptable.
After a lot of trial and error on ambient sensor placement + averaging of several sensors I'm pretty happy. If the ambient sensors are taped against a solid surface there should be no huge or fast changes in temp readings regardless of what your home heating/cooling does.

On undervolting and PA2's.....I never had what I consider excessive temps, certainly none that caused the PA2 to cycle to 100% although I can certainly envision a scenario to make that happen. I was running a D5 vario on a PA2 Ultra for a while but I had it set up to kick in at a high level instead of gradually ramping since it is not my primary pump.
But I have undervolted from 3 to 8 fans per PA2 with no ill effects.
With the Aquaero water blocked I can undervolt down to around 4V / 500rpm area easy enough. Hmm wonder when / if we'll see someone adapt a block for a PA2?









Aquasuite 2013-2 can be one buggy sucker with dual Aquaero's but I've learned to work through it, and really unless you constantly tweak things it's not too bad as you can always shut it down after you update the Aquaero's. The worst part was starting from scratch and trying to configure both Aquaero's hooked up when it's easier to do one at a time as Aquasuite got confused when updating firmware. But I usually end up finding the hard way first.....


----------



## cpachris

Starting to dabble a little with lighting ideas while I continue to work on finishing up storage stability testing.

One thing I'm playing with is using the RGB LED control for the Aquaero's to light up the reservoirs. Because of the build theme colors, I'm playing with having the reservoirs turn from white light (cool temps) to red lights (hot temps). Here is a shot of both reservoirs lit up by just the RGB LED coming from the AQ5's:



Capturing an accurate image in the dark is always tough. All of these pictures are taken in a completely dark room, with no lights, and no flash. The lighted reservoirs put out a decent glow, and even cast a faint light on the rest of the box so that you can just barely see the board and components.

These next shots show how the AQ5 is changing the RGB colors based on the temp sensors. I have the back reservoir (the helix) tied to the average of the CPU core temperatures. I have the front reservoir (OU Boomer Sooner) tied to the water/air delta temperature. As the temps get hotter, the light starts changing to red. I started up a Prime95 session and kept taking pictures.

This picture below shows that the back reservoir (tied to CPU temp) turned red pretty quickly under a Prime95 load.



This shot below is about 10 minutes later, and you can see the front reservoir (tied to water/air delta) starting to turn pinker than it was previously. It's in the middle of its turn to red.



This shot below is about 20 minutes later, and the front reservoir has turned completely red, just like the back one.



Although I didn't take a shot of it....once I stopped the Prime95 run...the back reservoir dropped back down to a white color fairly quickly...whilte the front reservoir took much longer to return from red to white. I'm still just playing around with some concepts, but I kind of like knowing if the temps have exceeded a certain threshold just by glancing at the reservoirs. Doesn't work as well in full daylight when the colors don't show up as well.

This last shot below is my first attempt at playing with my LED strip lights. I am very impressed with their brightness. This picture doesn't even do them justice. I hooked up a small 2 foot length to the top of my case, and ran the connection over to my FC8. I can turn up the volts to create either a soft glow inside the whole box....or full blast, which creates something incredibly bright. Lights up the room! This picture was taken in a completely dark room!


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Starting to dabble a little with lighting ideas while I continue to work on finishing up storage stability testing.


I see purdy colours









I used about 2 foot of white led strips (Cut into segments of 3 leds) in my HAF-XB and it lights up my room if i have a panel off.


----------



## Electrocutor

If it were me, I'd play with different colored LEDs until I found the color that when lit dimly best accents the copper.


----------



## Electrocutor

Marco...


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Polo....


----------



## Radmanhs

Marco


----------



## waslakhani

Polo


----------



## Celisuis

Seriously wish I had this sort of money to spend.

I just done a `dream` build price up, and it's 1/10th what you have, and it's £4k :O

Seriously need to save....


----------



## Whatts

That's the beauty of the CaseLabs cases, you can always add more stuff (pedestals/tops/etc) as and when your budget allows.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Marco...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> Polo....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Marco


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> Polo


Polo!!!!

Been busy tinkering with storage still, and playing with some temp sensor wiring. I'll update everyone on storage activities in this post.

First, I've hooked back up the 4 SSD Raid0 array powered by the LSI chip on the Asrock board. Made some attempts at upgrading the firmware to the latest version available for the LSI 9217 card, but interface would tell me that there was a NVDATA issue with the firmware I was trying to use. Vega had succesfully updated his firmware with this card's firmware. I couldn't get it to work. Ended up giving up. However, the array is up and running smoothly. But like Vega and some others have reported, my 4k speeds were disappointing. Especially at high queue depth. I ended up making all the SSD's just pass through disks, and set up a stripe in Windows7. Results are much better....benchmarks under both scenarios below:

Raid Calculations Handled by LSI Chip:



Raid Calculations Handled by Windows 7:



Notice how much better the 4k-64thrd speeds are? I'm happy with this setup....and moving on.

Back to cooling the Areca card.....you'll recall from a few posts ago, that I was tinkering with replacing the LOUD cooling fan that comes on the Areca 1882ix. With my first attempt, I merely unplugged the stock fan, and stuck a little 40mm Noiseblocker Fan between the cards. The results were acceptable. The cooling was not as great as the stock fan...but these fans spin more slowly...and I don't have it mounted right on the CPU like the stock fan is. Cooling was still acceptable....and much much more quiet.

I haven't take the plumbing apart to actually mount the fan and see if it improves the cooling yet...but I've been playing with different positions for the fan. Different directions for it to blow. Some pics:





It definitely was more effective cooling with the fan blow at the CPU, rather than pulling air away from it. But...if I left the fan vertical like this...there are only a few places it will fit because of how thick the heatsinks are. And I'm not happy with any of the positions.

Plus...even though the Noiseblocker 40mm fan is still so much quieter than the stock fan was....its still the loudest part of the system when I have the 120mm fans spinning slowly. So...I need another solution.

I even played around with putting another 120mm in blowing across the card....like this:



The cooling was about the same....but of course this fan is much quieter. However, I don't like the placement and don't want a fan sitting right there. I also played around with sticking one of the 120mm fans horizontal between the cards...but it was just a little too thick to fit between there with the heatsinks on the card. Would fit if I remove the heatsinks.

Question for you all....I'm considering some type of slot cooler that would fit between the raid card and the bottom video card. Does anyone have any experience with them? I'm considering this one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Cooler_TTC-SC07TZ.html?id=QIhjVy4x&mv_pc=9093

.....or could get a thinner fan that would fit between the cards....like this one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...m_Speed_D12SM-12C.html?id=QIhjVy4x&mv_pc=9795

Would love some thoughts from those who have played with cooling between cards.

I'm also still toying with the idea of water cooling the card...but since I really want it in the 3rd slot where it is....I think I would need the block outlets to be on the side of the block...and not the top. I don't think I would have enough room for fittings coming out of the top of the block. That limits my selections immensely. Thinking about getting this one...just to see if it would fit:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Block_No_Nozzles_.html?id=QIhjVy4x&mv_pc=9951

Having another waterblock here would complicate my already complex loop a little bit more....but I sure would like to go fanless on this card if possible. I've tried it with no fan at all blowing...and it reaches critical temperatures within 15 minutes or so. It appears to need some active cooling....at least with the stock heatsinks.

Has anyone tried the stick-on copper heatsinks? Wondering if I could get by with spinning my 40mm fan slower...and putting a lot of these on the card. Thoughts?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...?tl=g40c16s1861&id=QIhjVy4x&mv_pc=10730#blank

Will be back tonight with some pictures of my FAIL on some temperatures sensor splitting.


----------



## Rbby258

best bet would be getting a block for it and it shouldn't be to hard.


----------



## Wibble360

Yeah I'd go for the block if poss - would provide the most effective cooling with no extra fan - win-win

And I'm sure we'd have fun with another tubing route to configure!


----------



## Citra

Definitely the block.


----------



## cpachris

I've ordered the water block. Will be fun to try and work it into the plumbing layout. Also in this order...my replacement pump, and some additional fittings.


----------



## cpachris

Another question for everyone. I'm going to sponsor another round of fan testing over at Martin's Liquid Lab. I want to see how the Noiseblocker eLoops perform against the reigning champ...the GT AP-15. Also, there is a new Gentle Typhoon out that spins at 2,150 rpm. I want to see if this one performs similar to the AP-15 when undervolted. If so, it could provide some additional headroom when needed, while retaining everything that is great about the AP-15's. I'm also planning on including the Corsair SP fans, since it seems like lots of people are using these in their builds right now.

Suggestions on any other fans to include in this round of testing?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Another question for everyone. I'm going to sponsor another round of fan testing over at Martin's Liquid Lab. I want to see how the Noiseblocker eLoops perform against the reigning champ...the GT AP-15. Also, there is a new Gentle Typhoon out that spins at 2,150 rpm. I want to see if this one performs similar to the AP-15 when undervolted. If so, it could provide some additional headroom when needed, while retaining everything that is great about the AP-15's. I'm also planning on including the Corsair SP fans, since it seems like lots of people are using these in their builds right now.
> 
> Suggestions on any other fans to include in this round of testing?


Silverstone AP-123


----------



## Wibble360

I would have said the eLoops vs GTs anyway - am intrigued to know! Good of you to sponsor another round of testing, am sure we'll all appreciate the results.

I'm just about to pull the trigger on the Motherlode order for my build's WC parts - am gonna get eLoops and almost convinced myself to order some GTs just to compare, but am not too keen on the GT's aesthetics so they're out for that reason.

btw Chris - I took on board what you said about the faster-rated fans having larger motors and being inherently more noisy - hence I'm going for the 800rpm-max versions - should be enough to keep my i3-3220 cool enough until I eventually upgrade


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Swiftech Helix fans please.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## theseopenfields

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> Silverstone AP-123


Seconding this, I'm very interested to see how these perform. Especially dB wise compared to the AP-15.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> Silverstone AP-123


I'll do that one. Good looking fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Swiftech Helix fans please.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Jeff....Martin actually tested that one in his last round-up. Results were not stellar.

Any other ideas? Probably got room for one more. Right now it will be:

Noiseblocker eLoops 1,900 rpm
Noiseblocker eLoops 2,400 rpm
GT AP-15
GT AP-45 (this is the 2,150 rpm version)
Corsair Air Series SP120
Cougar Vortex Hydro (these are being supplied by someone else)
Silverstone AP-123
Noctua NF-F12


----------



## Xclsyr

Has Martin tried the Akasa Piranha yet?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Ooh... that does not look good... time to change fans! (again)

Jeffinslaw


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

The whole purpose of this build is to provide the quietest experience possible. Adding another fan will add more "noise" so my lowly vote is water block all the way.


----------



## cpachris

OK. I'll include the Akasa Piranha also. That will make plenty for this round of testing. I'm going to get him the fans shipped pronto...so look for a new round of fan testing up on his site sometime in the next few weeks. He's usually pretty quick.

On to a build update......

Since I have two Aquaero 5's, both of these units need temperature sensor data to effectively control fans/pumps. My idea was to take a single temperature sensor, and splice in a second connector to the end, so that the single temperature sensor could feed both Aquaero units the same data point.

I started with two separate sensors....



I snipped the connector end off of one of them, leaving about 6 inches of wire....



Then I stripped off a section of insulation from the wire of the other sensor, about 6 inches down from the connector....



..twisted the other connectors wires around the stripped insulation portion of the first sensor....



...got out my "helping hands" to solder the wrapped wires together for a better connection....



...and put some heat shrink over the join.



Viola! Now I have one temp sensor....with two connections on the other end. They are spaced such that I will be able to run it up to the area where the Aquaero's are installed, and just plug in both connectors.

I was excited to try out my idea, so I plugged one of the connectors into the XT and one into the LT and booted up the machine. When I opened Aquasuite to monitor the temp sensor readings....I was pleased to see that both Aquaero units were reporting the same temp value from the sensor. Score!

BUT....and its a big but......the temp value was now about 16 degrees too low. Instead of the approximate 24c ambient room temperature, both AQ5's were showing a value of around 8c for the sensor reading. So....FAIL.

I guess you can't split the wire into two separate end connections. I'm sure someone who understands these sensors better than I do will jump in here with an explanation as to why. Previously...I had proven that I could lengthen or shorten the temp sensor wires with no impact on the readings.....but splicing in an additional wire is not going to work. Curious if anyone else has tried this with similar results?

So...I'm back to needing indivdual temp sensors for each of the AQ5 units. For my ambient air temperature readings, I'm going to use two sensors for each of the AQ5's, so I can average their readings for a more stable temperature. That means four temperature sensors in all. I went ahead and sleeved them in white to make them a little prettier. Here are some pics:







Now...I need to work on the water temp sensors. I'm playing with some different locations for these. I was trying to capture 3 different temps for the loop (after CPU subloop, after GPU subloop, and after rads), but there is so little difference in the temps that I might scale back to a two point average. Still pondering and playing.....

More soon!


----------



## mandrix

Aye....I already tried that with the temp sensors, and as you found, it does not work. It's throwing too much impedance into the circuit.

Now, when it comes to the inline water temp sensors, what you can do is wrap two sensors in there under the rubber/plastic cap. Might be some pics in my build log, don't remember, but basically just wrap them in opposite directions, and then you can feed both Aquaero's. Works like a charm.
You might have to open up the exit hole a little bit for both sensors leads to fit.
It's handy for me to feed the "after cpu" water temp to both Aquaero's since I use Delta t for all the controllers anyway.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Aye....I already tried that with the temp sensors, and as you found, it does not work. It's throwing too much impedance into the circuit.
> 
> Now, when it comes to the inline water temp sensors, what you can do is wrap two sensors in there under the rubber/plastic cap. Might be some pics in my build log, don't remember, but basically just wrap them in opposite directions, and then you can feed both Aquaero's. Works like a charm.
> You might have to open up the exit hole a little bit for both sensors leads to fit.
> It's handy for me to feed the "after cpu" water temp to both Aquaero's since I use Delta t for all the controllers anyway.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> OK. I'll include the Akasa Piranha also. That will make plenty for this round of testing. I'm going to get him the fans shipped pronto...so look for a new round of fan testing up on his site sometime in the next few weeks. He's usually pretty quick.
> 
> On to a build update......
> 
> Since I have two Aquaero 5's, both of these units need temperature sensor data to effectively control fans/pumps. My idea was to take a single temperature sensor, and splice in a second connector to the end, so that the single temperature sensor could feed both Aquaero units the same data point.
> 
> I started with two separate sensors....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I snipped the connector end off of one of them, leaving about 6 inches of wire....
> 
> 
> 
> Then I stripped off a section of insulation from the wire of the other sensor, about 6 inches down from the connector....
> 
> 
> 
> ..twisted the other connectors wires around the stripped insulation portion of the first sensor....
> 
> 
> 
> ...got out my "helping hands" to solder the wrapped wires together for a better connection....
> 
> 
> 
> ...and put some heat shrink over the join.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Viola! Now I have one temp sensor....with two connections on the other end. They are spaced such that I will be able to run it up to the area where the Aquaero's are installed, and just plug in both connectors.
> 
> I was excited to try out my idea, so I plugged one of the connectors into the XT and one into the LT and booted up the machine. When I opened Aquasuite to monitor the temp sensor readings....I was pleased to see that both Aquaero units were reporting the same temp value from the sensor. Score!
> 
> BUT....and its a big but......the temp value was now about 16 degrees too low. Instead of the approximate 24c ambient room temperature, both AQ5's were showing a value of around 8c for the sensor reading. So....FAIL.
> 
> I guess you can't split the wire into two separate end connections. I'm sure someone who understands these sensors better than I do will jump in here with an explanation as to why. Previously...I had proven that I could lengthen or shorten the temp sensor wires with no impact on the readings.....but splicing in an additional wire is not going to work. Curious if anyone else has tried this with similar results?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So...I'm back to needing indivdual temp sensors for each of the AQ5 units. For my ambient air temperature readings, I'm going to use two sensors for each of the AQ5's, so I can average their readings for a more stable temperature. That means four temperature sensors in all. I went ahead and sleeved them in white to make them a little prettier. Here are some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now...I need to work on the water temp sensors. I'm playing with some different locations for these. I was trying to capture 3 different temps for the loop (after CPU subloop, after GPU subloop, and after rads), but there is so little difference in the temps that I might scale back to a two point average. Still pondering and playing.....
> 
> More soon!
Click to expand...

Looks to me like they're just simple thermocouples. (2 dissimilar metals that produce a small unique voltage potential at a given temperature). The Aquaero is calibrated for the voltage generated for a single sensor and a specified length of lead wire. Any extra wire in the circuit introduces additional resistance (like what mandrix said) and now the voltage (and therefore temperature) reading is off.

You *could *recalibrate it with a reliable multimeter and a few fluids or surfaces of known temperature, but you'd have to be able to edit the expected voltage values in the Aquaero. Or maybe test enough temperatures to generate a reasonable offset between the temperature reading and the true temperature, but at that point it may just be simpler and more reliable to just use individual sensors. I don't think it would be an entirely linear relationship.

(And just so you know, after having taken a Heat Transfer lab last semester, I was really excited that I knew what was going on. Yay for applying school to real life! haha







)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> Looks to me like they're just simple thermocouples. (2 dissimilar metals that produce a small unique voltage potential at a given temperature). The Aquaero is calibrated for the voltage generated for a single sensor and a specified length of lead wire. Any extra wire in the circuit introduces additional resistance (like what mandrix said) and now the voltage (and therefore temperature) reading is off.
> 
> You *could *recalibrate it with a reliable multimeter and a few fluids or surfaces of known temperature, but you'd have to be able to edit the expected voltage values in the Aquaero. Or maybe test enough temperatures to generate a reasonable offset between the temperature reading and the true temperature, but at that point it may just be simpler and more reliable to just use individual sensors. I don't think it would be an entirely linear relationship.
> 
> (And just so you know, after having taken a Heat Transfer lab last semester, I was really excited that I knew what was going on. Yay for applying school to real life! haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


School is good for something!

FYI...I have successfully changed the length of the wire with no impact of any significance on the readings. It was only splicing in another wire that caused the large decrease in reported temps. The Aquaero allows user calibration adjustments...but only in small increments. Nothing like the drop I had when I did this. I'll probably stick with individual sensors.

Thanks for the info!


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> School is good for something!
> 
> FYI...I have successfully changed the length of the wire with no impact of any significance on the readings. It was only splicing in another wire that caused the large decrease in reported temps. The Aquaero allows user calibration adjustments...but only in small increments. Nothing like the drop I had when I did this. I'll probably stick with individual sensors.
> 
> Thanks for the info!


Length of wire will affect the reading but you will need to increase the length buy 100's of feet to see any differences. But when you split the wire both the solder add more resistance (I don't think enough to change the readings.) but when you split the wire and have two devices pulling readings at the same time will provide enough voltage drop to see a change. This can be tested buy just removing one of the split ends and seeing if the readings are now with in normal tolerances. If you can change that each sensor pulls at a different time instead of a continuous reading. That should solve the issue.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> Length of wire will affect the reading but you will need to increase the length buy 100's of feet to see any differences. But when you split the wire both the solder add more resistance (I don't think enough to change the readings.) but when you split the wire and have two devices pulling readings at the same time will provide enough voltage drop to see a change. This can be tested buy just removing one of the split ends and seeing if the readings are now with in normal tolerances. If you can change that each sensor pulls at a different time instead of a continuous reading. That should solve the issue.


Interesting. But I don't think I can have the Aquaero's alternate pulling a reading from the sensors. Neat idea though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Now, when it comes to the inline water temp sensors, what you can do is wrap two sensors in there under the rubber/plastic cap. Might be some pics in my build log, don't remember, but basically just wrap them in opposite directions, and then you can feed both Aquaero's. Works like a charm.
> You might have to open up the exit hole a little bit for both sensors leads to fit.


I'm intrigued enough to try it.









Pictures below:

I started with two temperature sensors. One of the inline coolant temperature sensors, and another plain air temp sensor.



In this picture, you can see the rubber cap that mandrix is talking about. I had never pulled on the wire...but underneath the rubber cap is just a regular temp sensor wrapped around the fitting.



I played with taking an additional temp sensor and sticking it in the opening on the rubber cap...and it fit like a charm. I pushed it in the opposite direction around the fitting than the first one was.



Here it is snugged in all nice and tight. Two temp sensors coming from the same fitting.



Once I knew I could do this easily, I went ahead and cut down the wires on two temperature sensors to size, and sleeved them in some white MDPC-X. They are different lengths.



Then I put the temp sensor end of both wires back into the fitting. The fitting end will be on the upper 480 radiator that is the last one in the loop. The temp sensors will measure the radiator-out temps. The wires had to be different sizes so that they fit cleanly down on the respective aquaero's. One is about 7.5 inches, and one is about 5.5 inches.





Plugged both ends into the AQ5's and happily noted that they were returning the same temperature value to the AQ5 units (within 0.1 degree).

I'll end up doing one more just like this (different length wires) to measure the temps for the radiator-in spot.

Thanks for the idea mandrix!


----------



## cpachris

Got a couple of packages over the last two days. Here is pic of some of the new items:



Working from left to right in the above picture, you'll be able to spot:

- a new D5 pump. This one is a PWM controlled pump, so I'll see how I like it compared to my voltage controlled D5's.
- several stick-on copper heatsinks. If I can't get a waterblock to fit the Areca card, I'l be playing with these and some other fan options
- several new fan options for cooling the Areca card. I'm the most intrigued with the dual PCI slot cooler fan. I plugged it in briefly, and when undervolted it was very quiet.
- a smattering of fittings for those pieces where I was running low from my initial stash. You'll see some Bitspower QDC's, which are new for me. Also, some LED holder stop fittings that I'm going to play with for more reservoir lighting.
- more crystal link, SATA cables, and some LED and cold cathode lighting....round out the items.

Here are some close-ups of the waterblock I'm going to try and fit on the Areca 1882ix raid card:



This picture shows the main reason I selected this block first. The inlet/outlet options on the side of the block.





It's shiny.











Here are some close-ups of the Bitspower QDC's. They don't make them in white...and I'm fed up with trying to place another custom order. Their customer service department is lacking. So....I'll see what these look like in the build. These are the matte black version. I'll clearly have to replace the o-ring with a black one if I use these.



In this picture, you can see where some of the finish is already chipping off where the QDC's make contact with each other. I guess that should be expected.



Here is a picture comparing the Bitspower with the Koolance QDC. I bought several of the Koolance QDC's, and decided not to use them because of how HUGE they are, and I really just don't like the way they look. I was hoping that the Bitspower would be a lot smaller. They are smaller....but not by much. However, I do like the way they look MUCH better than the Koolance QDC's.



Next step for me is to replace the broken pump with the PWM version. I want to measure how large a difference it makes before I start tweaking the loop layout for the new waterblock.


----------



## mandrix

I think you'll like the pwm version of the D5. I replaced mine with the pwm version so I could control it with one of the Aquaero's.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> and I'm fed up with trying to place another custom order. Their customer service department is lacking


I've pretty much given up on trying to get their bronze fittings because of this. Most emails are simply ignored.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I've pretty much given up on trying to get their bronze fittings because of this. Most emails are simply ignored.


Have you found anyone selling the bronze age fittings? I think those would like good with copper tubing.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Have you found anyone selling the bronze age fittings? I think those would like good with copper tubing.


No, and Bitspower hasn't responded to my question of whether they have any resellers that carry them, nor have they responded to my inquiries about custom ordering them.


----------



## cpachris

Drained the system last night, and did a quick install of the new PWM D5 pump. I didn't make any loop changes, or put the waterblock on the Areca card yet, because I wanted to first see what the impact was on flow rates for JUST having the 4th pump working. Flow rates have definitely increased.

Previously, I could get the CPU subloop as high as 0.9 gpm when I used the valves to push all the flow there. Now...it goes up to 1.3 gpm.

Previously, I could get the GPU subloop as high as 0.8 gpm when I used the valves to push all the flow there. Now...it goes up to 1.3 gpm.

Previously, I could get the flow as high as 0.6 gpm when I set up a 100% serial flow (no separate subloops). Now....it goes up to 0.9 gpm in 100% serial.

The radiator subloop already had both pumps working previously, and remains unchanged at about 1.3 gpm .

So, getting the 4th pump working helped. But, the rpm sensor wire is NOT working for me at all. I'm pretty sure its an issue with the pump and not the AQ5 or Aquasuite, because I don't get any rpm signal when I plug the wire into my board and use the Asrock software either. The PWM control is working fine....but Aquasuite shows 0 rpm for the pump. I have it plugged into the 4th fan channel of the main unit. I get the same results for both Aquaero units, so I'm 100% sure its not an issue with the AQ5.

And of course, the pump came with a cable that was far too short to reach the AQ5's, so the first thing I had done was lengthen the rpm and pwm wires. My guess is that FrozenCPU will have a hard time doing a return on a pump that is working...but returns no rpm signal on a cable that I've lengthened myself. So although the pump works fine....the OCD portion of me will go crazy not having an rpm readout for the pump. I feel real good about my wire lengthening. I had good flow with the solder and the connection is solid. I guess I could take the pump apart and make sure the rpm wire hasn't come off the PCB...but that seems like a big hassle. I'll play with it when I drain the system again....which will probably be today. Any other ideas? I don't need to have a ground running to the AQ5 from the pump do I? Right now I have the 12 volt and ground going straight to the PSU, and only the rpm and the pwm cables going to the AQ5. That's correct....right?

Next up...trying to put the waterblock on the Areca card. I'm also going to redo the loop layout while I have it drained. Although it has been neat for testing purposes to have the valve system in place so that I can manually emphasize flow in either the CPU subloop or the GPU subloop, whenever I do so...it is the other subloop that suffers. So even though it's nice to be able to push the GPU subloop up to 1.3 gpm for temperature testing...in real life that is decreasing the flow rate of the CPU subloop to unacceptable levels. And even though I can use the valves to also create a 100% serial flow (no parallel subloops) when I do so the coolant is having to be pushed around through a lot more tubing, fittings and valves to accomplish this. I could make the loop much shorter and simpler (the layout on the PSU side of the case) if I hard plumbed it for a serial loop with no subloops. I could do away with 2 flow meters, several feet of tubing, 3 valves, many 90 turns, and some T-Blocks. Surely that will decrease restriction some...and may allow even higher flow rates. Don't know the restriction of this waterblock I'm going to try and add for the Areca card, but maybe a simpler shorter loop will completely offset the pressure drop for that addition.

I think I'm also going to try and work the 2 AMS 360 rads into a parallel flow for this next iteration. Although...I'm happy with the 1.3 gpm flow of the radiator portion of the loop right now. So, if I can't plumb a parallel setup in an aesthetically pleasing manner...I'll leave these in serial.


----------



## cpachris

Drained the system again this morning and I'm starting work on the Areca card block. Some random thoughts on my loop while they are hitting me. Since I've now drained the system twice within a 24 hour period, I can assess the strength and weaknesses of my current setup.

First off...without having any QDC's in my loop right now (maybe soon), I have to drain the coolant down below the board level before I can remove. I don't have to drain everything...just below board level. The drain valve I have on the PSU side of the case is all I need to open to accomplish this. I can open it up, and most of the water that I need to drain does so fairly quickly. Then...I can blow through the fillport on top of the case, and it quickly removes almost all remaining water.

Then, to remove the motherboard tray, I am using dplugs for every tubing connection. I can simply unplug these...along with the electrical connections, and slide the tray right out. Takes 5 minutes tops. Very easy to do....very little mess. I like it.

Here's what I don't like. The force and wiggle that I have to use to separate the dplugs is more than I would like. I fear stripping the threads on the acetal tops of the board blocks and memory blocks. I need to continue doing this with great care...or find a different solution. They would work better if there was tubing on both sides of the dplug...so that the wiggle is absorbed by the tube. Also, I'd rather not have to unscrew one of the fittings to remove the motherboard tray...which is another option if I don't want to use dplugs anymore. I might play with my new Bitspower QDC's when I put this back together and see what I think of those.

Motherboard tray removed and ready for work.....


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Any other ideas?


Just for curiosity's sake, are you using the same PSU to power the pump as you are to read the RPM signal?

----
- If there is not much clearance between the top of your RAID water block and the back of the next card, you might consider using a non-conductive enamel or something to prevent an accidental touch from frying the card.

- I completely agree about removing many of those G1/4" connections being able to reduce flow resistance. That's one reason I decided that any valves or splits I would use outside the motherboard area would be full 1/2" ID.

- I do wish you could find an aesthetically pleasing way to put the ram blocks and chipset/vrm into parallel. Running those in series really do add unnecessary restriction. Perhaps you could run the RAID and chipset in parallel, the two RAM blocks in parallel, and leave the VRM in series.

- If you're looking to use QDCs, it'd probably be best to put the CPU area and GPUs area into series, thus reducing your needs to only two QDCs. Perhaps something like: QDC->tubing->(raid/chipset)->(gpu/gpu)->(ram/ram)->cpu->vrm->tubing->QDC

- With 4 pumps in 2x2 series/parallel, you really should be able to get above 2gpm pretty easily... it might be worth your time to use your QDCs and a flow meter to test each an every block and radiator individually at full pump speed to figure out how restrictive each one is.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Just for curiosity's sake, are you using the same PSU to power the pump as you are to read the RPM signal?


I had to look....but yes. It is the same PSU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> - If there is not much clearance between the top of your RAID water block and the back of the next card, you might consider using a non-conductive enamel or something to prevent an accidental touch from frying the card.


Probably a good idea. It doesn't touch, but not a ton of leeway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> - I do wish you could find an aesthetically pleasing way to put the ram blocks and chipset/vrm into parallel. Running those in series really do add unnecessary restriction. Perhaps you could run the RAID and chipset in parallel, the two RAM blocks in parallel, and leave the VRM in series.


I'm considering ways to do the RAM blocks...but I would be scared to do the RAID/Chipset or the VRM/Chipset in parallel. I've found with the manual valves I have right now...that the coolant really does take the path of least resistance. The way I had it plumbed I had to be careful about leaving everything wide open in parallel subloops. The coolant would take the path of least resistance and have little to no flow on the other subloop. I really had to play with adding resistance by partially closing valves in order to keep coolant flowing everywhere. Without knowing how much difference there is in the pressure drop among different blocks (Chipset/VRM or Chipset/RAID) I would be scared that one of them was getting little to no flow. And without sticking a flow meter in there in a tight space, I could not measure it either.

But I'm still pondering the RAM blocks and the AMS radiators. Exact same resistance for each pair, so it would make sense to run them parallel. Especially for the RAM blocks...since they really aren't doing any mission critical cooling anyway. More for looks.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> - If you're looking to use QDCs, it'd probably be best to put the CPU area and GPUs area into series, thus reducing your needs to only two QDCs. Perhaps something like: QDC->tubing->(raid/chipset)->(gpu/gpu)->(ram/ram)->cpu->vrm->tubing->QDC
> 
> - With 4 pumps in 2x2 series/parallel, you really should be able to get above 2gpm pretty easily... it might be worth your time to use your QDCs and a flow meter to test each an every block and radiator individually at full pump speed to figure out how restrictive each one is.


2 gpm sounds a little lofty.







But it would be nice to get 1.0 gpm or more without the pumps running at full speed.


----------



## mandrix

I went through the same thing; I had a MCP35x pump go bad and of course I had all custom wiring, and sleeved. I had to take it all apart and put a molex back on so they could test it. While asking for RMA it was "suggested" that maybe because I wired the dual pumps myself I "might not have done it right". That pissed me off and I told them so and they backed off. I shipped them my dysfunctional pump and they shipped me a new one UPS 3 day. So, feel free to RMA your pump and refuse to take any crap about it: Swiftech doesn't make them nor repair them anyway, they just sell them.


----------



## cpachris

Picture update of Areca card waterblock installation.

This noisy little fan has been the bane of my existence for a couple of months now. It is secured to the heatsink with two small screws.



So it pops right off with little problem.



Below you can see that there was a thermal pad between the fan and the heatsink. Interesting. I'll bet there is another thermal pad underneath the heatsink. That's a lot of thermal pad!



The massive heatsink is secured to the PCB with the push-in spring retention screws. Here is the backside of the PCB showing the screw tips protruding:





So...a little squeeze with pliers on the end of them...and they pop right out.

Here are a couple of shots of the underside of the heatsink. Yep. More thermal pad.





I set the waterblock on top of the card just to get a feel for how the mounting brackets were going to line up with the holes in the PCB. At first glance, it doesn't look promising. The mounting brackets openings are a little bit wider than the holes on the PCB.



So...I played with repositioning the mounting brackets so that they lined up closer with the PCB holes. I also took two of them off, since I only have two holes in the PCB to work with. Taking off two of the mounting brackets gave me a few more options on how to align them. This bracket layout worked better...but was still a little off. Decided to give it a try.



Doh! The screws that came with the waterblock are bigger than the holes in the PCB and will not go through!



So, I ransacked my screw collection and found some M3 screws that were the perfect length and also fit through the PCB.

So here is a picture of it mounted. But if you look at where the two screws are with this mounting bracket positioning...you'll see that one of the screws is toward the bottom of the waterblock, and one is close to the middle. Was very hard to get the block to sit level on the chip with the pressure being so close to the bottom of the waterblock for one of the two screws.



This picture shows that the waterblock is not sitting real flat on the chip. You can also see the slight angle that the screws have to come in at in order to fit the mounting brackets.



So...I tried a third positioning of the mounting brackets. This positioning was the best yet...although still not perfect. But...the screws were putting more proportional pressure on the block with this setup, and the angle to the hole in the PCB was much more straight in.




I think I'll try and put this back in as-is and see what kind of temperatures the card is showing. Previously...with the incredibly loud little stock fan, the CPU would get up to around 70c and the controller ran at about 50c. When I used my little Noiseblocker fan inserted between the Areca card and the bottom GPU....the temperatures would go up to about 85c for the CPU and 60c for the controller.....but it was much more quiet. Even though it was more quiet...the little fan was still the loudest point in the system...so I'm anxious to see if this works.

Now...for the challenging part. Having waterblock openings between cards in slots 1 & 3....AND...between cards in slots 3 & 5....presents unique challenges. Not sure if I've ever seen this before. Here is a quick peek at what I think my first attempt will look like. Still playing with it, and I'll post better pictures once the board is back in the build. As mentioned previously, I'm going to use this iteration to have a 100% serial loop...with no subloops. So the major layout changes are:

1) what was the GPU subloop is now fed directly from what was the CPU subloop. No seperate starting point for the GPU's.
2) After the GPU's, the loop goes to the Areca card, and then the chipset block
3) I'm going to try a couple of Bitspower QDC's on the inlet for the VRM block up on top....and the outlet on the chipset block. This should allow future board removal without draining the loop.





More to come!


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


It looks to me like you will need a second water block?

Also, perhaps something like (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708009) for the little ones that don't need anything active.


----------



## Rbby258

possible to fit the block where the fan sat so it cools the heatsink?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> It looks to me like you will need a second water block?
> 
> Also, perhaps something like (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708009) for the little ones that don't need anything active.


Another set of inlets/outlets to deal with would be almost impossible. I'm hoping no additional cooling will be needed. I already have a ton of those little copper stick on heatsinks which I'll use to cover the rest of the board if this works. Areca sells cards with no active cooling at all on anything...so I'm hoping I can get away with a block on the chip that gets the hottest, and heatsinks on everything else.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> possible to fit the block where the fan sat so it cools the heatsink?


An excellent idea! The block fits like a glove in the box where the fan use to sit. The only issue is that the block inlets/outlets would be blocked by the front fin of the heatsink. But...a little dremel work could clear the path. I'm going to see what temps are like without it first...and decide whether I want to try that next.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Another set of inlets/outlets to deal with would be almost impossible. I'm hoping no additional cooling will be needed. I already have a ton of those little copper stick on heatsinks which I'll use to cover the rest of the board if this works. Areca sells cards with no active cooling at all on anything...so I'm hoping I can get away with a block on the chip that gets the hottest, and heatsinks on everything else.
> An excellent idea! The block fits like a glove in the box where the fan use to sit. The only issue is that the block inlets/outlets would be blocked by the front fin of the heatsink. But...a little dremel work could clear the path. I'm going to see what temps are like without it first...and decide whether I want to try that next.


Ha, thought it looked about right. That's gotta be better cooling than that little fan, and the heatsink will cover everything that a single block wont


----------



## nvidiaftw12

If not, cut the heatsink out just around the wb so it cools the other chip.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> Ha, thought it looked about right. That's gotta be better cooling than that little fan, and the heatsink will cover everything that a single block wont


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> If not, cut the heatsink out just around the wb so it cools the other chip.


Well crud. Just got done watching the Thunder game tonight, and was checking email before I was going to fill back up my loop. I got a reply from Areca regarding a question I sent them a couple of days ago about which chip supplied which temperature reading to the monitoring software. I had it wrong. It's the chip on the left of the card that returns the "CPU Temperature" reading, and the one on the right that supplies the "Controller Temperature" reading. It's the CPU that gets hot enough to require some active cooling. So....I need to use Rbby258's idea about putting back on the large heatsink that covers the entire card, and replacing the old fan with the waterblock sitting on top of the heatsink. Since the fan provided adequate cooling...the waterblock should do even better at removing some heat from the heatsink.

Need to take that portion of the loop apart again to be able to get the raid card out and make these changes. Hope I can find some screws that fit this new longer length that will be required. The other screws I found were just about perfect...with no extra threads at all.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Well crud. Just got done watching the Thunder game tonight, and was checking email before I was going to fill back up my loop. I got a reply from Areca regarding a question I sent them a couple of days ago about which chip supplied which temperature reading to the monitoring software. I had it wrong. It's the chip on the left of the card that returns the "CPU Temperature" reading, and the one on the right that supplies the "Controller Temperature" reading. It's the CPU that gets hot enough to require some active cooling. So....I need to use Rbby258's idea about putting back on the large heatsink that covers the entire card, and replacing the old fan with the waterblock sitting on top of the heatsink. Since the fan provided adequate cooling...the waterblock should do even better at removing some heat from the heatsink.
> 
> Need to take that portion of the loop apart again to be able to get the raid card out and make these changes. Hope I can find some screws that fit this new longer length that will be required. The other screws I found were just about perfect...with no extra threads at all.


Good luck, I will be waiting for the pics


----------



## cpachris

More pictures and progress on the Areca card waterblock.

First, here is what it looked like before I pulled out the Dremel. You can see that first fin on the heatsink is right in front of the waterblock inlets and outlets.



This picture shows clearly how it blocks the inlets/outlets.



So once I attach fittings to the block, it doesn't even sit down flush inside the little square on the heatsink.



Clearly some Dremel action is needed! It was quick and easy, and it just took the entire front fin off the heatsink. Presto..it's gone.



Block sits nice and flush in the heatsink square....



And the inlet/outlets are not blocked at all.



I also had these stick on heatsinks, so I decided to give the main heatsink some more area and use these liberally.





I put them on the memory sticks, and on the heatsink itself. The only reason Areca doesn't have fins in the spot where I put the stick-on copper heatsinks, is that they block access to the memory card. But since these can be removed...no big deal. Plus...I don't expect to have to touch that memory stick in the forseeable future. The stick-on sinks give the card a touch of copper and will be easy to spot when it's installed. Should make the card tie in better with the rest of the color scheme.

Studio pictures were required. Maybe I should partner with Areca to make some custom cooling options for their cards?















Before I get too happy...I better see if the waterblock does a good job at removing heat from the heatsink. Back to getting the loop filled back up and testing. Have a baseball game tonight...so it will probably be tomorrow.


----------



## Rbby258

edit: i see them now


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Before I get too happy...I better see if the waterblock does a good job at removing heat from the heatsink.


As the heatsink/padding/etc has not changed (except for missing 1 fin) I can't imagine it cooling any worse than the stock fan. But I'd like to see this confirmed by hard facts and figures of course


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Well crud. Just got done watching the Thunder game tonight, and was checking email before I was going to fill back up my loop. I got a reply from Areca regarding a question I sent them a couple of days ago about which chip supplied which temperature reading to the monitoring software. I had it wrong. It's the chip on the left of the card that returns the "CPU Temperature" reading, and the one on the right that supplies the "Controller Temperature" reading. It's the CPU that gets hot enough to require some active cooling. So....I need to use Rbby258's idea about putting back on the large heatsink that covers the entire card, and replacing the old fan with the waterblock sitting on top of the heatsink. Since the fan provided adequate cooling...the waterblock should do even better at removing some heat from the heatsink.
> 
> Need to take that portion of the loop apart again to be able to get the raid card out and make these changes. Hope I can find some screws that fit this new longer length that will be required. The other screws I found were just about perfect...with no extra threads at all.


I was so bummed when the Sonics left and relocated to OKC. Every time I see Kevin Durant on the highlights, I just shake my head and think what could of been. We are going through NBA basketball withdrawls here in the Seattle area.







Seriously tho, that Areca card is looking delicious with that waterblock.


----------



## mandrix

Big shout out to cpachris & Prymus for sponsoring another fan testing round by Martin!
http://martinsliquidlab.org/


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> As the heatsink/padding/etc has not changed (except for missing 1 fin) I can't imagine it cooling any worse than the stock fan. But I'd like to see this confirmed by hard facts and figures of course


I got everything put back together, filled up, and leak tested. I can claim success on the waterblock for the Areca RAID card, although the temperatures are not as great as I was hoping. With the waterblock in place, the temperature for the CPU (the chip that was on the left and not directly under the waterblock) is about the same as it was for the noisy stock fan, and 10 to 15 degrees cooler than it was when using the replacement Noiseblocker fan. CPU still gets up to around 70 degrees. I was hoping for even better cooling than the stock fan, but I guess I shouldn't be too disappointed. After all, the waterblock isn't even close to the CPU. It's sitting on top of a large heatsink that also covers the CPU, but is about 6 nches away from it. So...I guess I can't expect it to cool too much better.

However, the controller temperature (the chip on the right that is directly underneath the waterblock) is almost 20 degrees cooler than results with the standard stock fan. It stays in the upper 30's. Very happy with that. And, I guess I'm very happy overall....because I have removed one more of the loud fans from the build. At this point, the D5 pumps are the loudest thing in the build, and for those of you with D5's....you know that they are not very loud. You can't hear any of my 50+ fans when they are spinning at about 700 rpm or below. Just the soft and gentle hum of the D5's. Sounds like a fishtank. So it's as close to silent as possible when idling. The fans end up being louder than the pumps when I kick them up to full speed. Will definitely do much more water/air delta temp testing when I'm done to assist with setting up the best profile for the fans. Most of them can probably stay off for large portions of time. With as much coolant and radiators as I have in this build...the coolant doesn't end up heating up very quickly even with no fans. But....more testing and data will come soon.

Can't really measure flow right now though, because I took out the flow meters on the PSU side when I put the loop back together. I shed a lot of tubing, fittings and flow meters....so I'm anxious to see if the additional restriction of the QDC's and the Raid card block... was mitigated by reducing the tubing, fitting and flow meters. I have one flow meter still in the pedestal, but because of the way I have the reservoirs connected, I can get more flow rate in the radiator loop, than I get through the motherboard. That's because if the reservoir coolant stacks up all the way to the top, it ends up trickling back down into the reservoir that feeds the radiator loop. So if the pumps can't push enough coolant through the motherboard loop, some of it ends up making a second loop through the radiators without ever going back through the motherboard loop. I need to put in one more flow meter to measure how much flow the motherboard loop is getting. Also...need to place the final temp sensors in the loop. Might take a cut at putting the AMS rads in parallel also during this tear down.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> I was so bummed when the Sonics left and relocated to OKC. Every time I see Kevin Durant on the highlights, I just shake my head and think what could of been. We are going through NBA basketball withdrawls here in the Seattle area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously tho, that Areca card is looking delicious with that waterblock.


Big game tonight! Really need to beat Memphis tonight or the series gets way too tough. I feel for the Seattle basketball fans. Lets hope you get another team there soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Big shout out to cpachris & Prymus for sponsoring another fan testing round by Martin!
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/


Was really interested in the new more powerful Gentle Typhoon's, and the Noiseblocker eLoops. Martin does the best testing, so it just makes sense to get him fans to test. I love to line up the videos of the fans at the same air flow...and just listen to the sound differences.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> At this point, the D5 pumps are the loudest thing in the build


Even at reduced speed? At full speed I can still hear the D5 hum, but at reduced speed, I can't hear anything from them at all after the air is gone. How do you have them decoupled?


----------



## stren

I think that Koolance block needs that nickel stripped off to reveal the copper underneath


----------



## cpachris

Couple of pictures of today's activities......

With the Areca card waterblock in place and functioning....I'm ready to tear everything down for what I hope is the final time before placing this thing in production. I mentioned a few posts ago how the RPM sensor on my new PWM D5 was not working. FrozenCPU was kind enough to get me a replacement shipped out immediately, and were even willing to do some cross-shipping since I order so much stuff from them. Kudos and thanks to them. The replacement pump is supposed to arrive today. I went ahead and ordered a second PWM pump...because I really liked how much range these things had versus the ones I have that use voltage to control the speed. There is not any identifiable difference in sound to my ear when they are running at the same speed....but the PWM versions can spin at much slower speeds.

I'll need to drain the system again to replace the pumps, and while I'm doing that, I'm going to take care of a little bit of housekeeping in the pedestal.

Here are some pictures showing I've removed the motherboard tray (the QDC's worked awesome....like them much better than my previous d-plug solution), drained the loop, and separated the pedestal from the main case.





I hadn't ever hooked up the Blu-ray player down in the pedestal, so I needed SATA data cable that was fairly long. None of the Akasa Pro's that I had learned how to shorten easily....were long enough to reach the pedestal, so I used a 3 ft silver SATA cable, and sleeved it in white. When done, I immediately took the sleeve off and started over. I had failed to wrap the cable in white electrical tape first...and you could tell. White sleeving is so beautiful.....when you hide any color underneath it. When you don't...it bleeds through and doesn't look right. Anyway...here is the second attempt at the cable....



Also down in the pedestal, I had never sleeved the Aquacomputer Flow Meter cable. Plus...even though the standard cable was long enough to reach where I wanted to plug it in, there was not much slack in the cable and it looked out of place. I want to be able to run it up to the PA2 in a manner where the wire follows the same flow as the other cables on the PSU side...so I need it to be longer. Because of the large funky connector pins on one end (for the life of me...I don't know why they did that), I ended up soldering on an additional length of wire instead of starting from scratch. I replaced the beige 3pin connector on the other end with a white one....and sleeved it all in white MDPC-X. Looks much better now.....



Next up....I'm going to play with doing some lighting down in the pedestal, that hopefully will end up looking like a soft glow coming through the case mesh. Probably will try some strip LED's down there with wiring up to my Lamptron FC8. I'll also get the new pumps installed and wired later tonight after they arrive.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Even at reduced speed? At full speed I can still hear the D5 hum, but at reduced speed, I can't hear anything from them at all after the air is gone. How do you have them decoupled?


My comment was really intended to describe how quiet the rest of the system was....not to say that the D5's are noisy. They are not. But they are still the loudest thing left in a virtually silent system. My rad fans are silent at 500 rpm. I've replaced the PSU fans with silent fans. There are no HDD's to create any clicking sound. Every system has a "loudest" part. By stating that mine are the D5's, I'm trying to illustrate how quiet the system is. They are decoupled well. Although....since they are lone item that makes any noise whatsoever when system is idling...I think I'm going to play with ways to further reduce the hum. I might try some soundproofing material wrapped around the motor underneath the bitspower dress up kit.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> I think that Koolance block needs that nickel stripped off to reveal the copper underneath


I'm really surprised you didn't suggest commissioning a custom full-card waterblock for the thing. I mean....why stop at stripping the nickel....right?


----------



## socketus

Wow ! I just checked the OP date - this thread is closing in on 1 year







and I've been here since its beginning, a first for myself. Still looking forward to this rig's initial completion


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

I was going to suggest a custom water block for the raid card. But after the mo/bo block figure it not worth it. Nothing against nate, as now I want to learn CNC to do my own custom water blocks when I get out of college...


----------



## linkdiablo

How about cutting yourself a slot on the other side of the heatsink an put another waterblock over the CPU: If the blocks can accomodate something like that diagram you could add the block without changing you tubing layout and drop your raid card cpu temps.

|¯¯|-->|¯¯|
|__|<--|__|
^ v


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> How about cutting yourself a slot on the other side of the heatsink an put another waterblock over the CPU: If the blocks can accomodate something like that diagram you could add the block without changing you tubing layout and drop your raid card cpu temps.
> 
> |¯¯|-->|¯¯|
> |__|<--|__|
> ^ v


i would leave it as is the temps are fine and now its silent.


----------



## barkinos98

well, its about to be a year in a few weeks


----------



## socketus

forest girl .... forest girl ..... where are yOU ??


----------



## Killa Cam

op, how are you liking the mips blocks?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Wow ! I just checked the OP date - this thread is closing in on 1 year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I've been here since its beginning, a first for myself. Still looking forward to this rig's initial completion


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> well, its about to be a year in a few weeks


Yes...I can't wait to put this into production. I still do so much photo/video editing on my old X58 rig....this one should be soooooo much faster. Can't wait! My goal will be to finish version 1.0 and put it in production before June 5th...which would be one year after I started.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> forest girl .... forest girl ..... where are yOU ??


Yeah...would love some more FG pics.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> How about cutting yourself a slot on the other side of the heatsink an put another waterblock over the CPU: If the blocks can accomodate something like that diagram you could add the block without changing you tubing layout and drop your raid card cpu temps.
> 
> |¯¯|-->|¯¯|
> |__|<--|__|
> ^ v


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> i would leave it as is the temps are fine and now its silent.


An intriguing idea linkdiablo. But I'm happy with temps and plumbing layout between the cards. Will stay as-is for now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> I was going to suggest a custom water block for the raid card. But after the mo/bo block figure it not worth it. Nothing against nate, as now I want to learn CNC to do my own custom water blocks when I get out of college...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> op, how are you liking the mips blocks?


Love all my Mips blocks. Not sure if Nate is still working on the AE11 batch of blocks or not. Last time we communicated, I asked for a tentative expected finish date before I paid the second invoice he sent me, and he wouldn't even throw out a guess. After waiting as long as I have already, I'll probably just ask for my initial deposit back if they are not done soon. I was always hoping to do a temperature comparison between the Mips block and Nate's blocks...but I'm pretty darn happy with temps for the Mips block. Nate....you alive?

As far as the Mips blocks go....the large block that covers the chipset, LSI chip, and PLX chips.....is amazing. The southbridge temp sensor used to get up past 60 degrees, even with that horribly annoying x-fan spinning. Now...with the Mips block....it never gets above 33 degrees....and no fan noise. Depending on your loop layout, the in/out may cause a challenge...but it can be done. The VRM block also lowered temps.....but not as dramatically as the larger chipset block. The "MB" temp sensor for Asrock....which I assume comes from the voltage regulator area....used to get up as high as 70 degrees under stress. Now...it stays in the mid-50's under stress, and idles in the 40's. So....very happy.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Couple of pictures of today's activities......
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> With the Areca card waterblock in place and functioning....I'm ready to tear everything down for what I hope is the final time before placing this thing in production. I mentioned a few posts ago how the RPM sensor on my new PWM D5 was not working. FrozenCPU was kind enough to get me a replacement shipped out immediately, and were even willing to do some cross-shipping since I order so much stuff from them. Kudos and thanks to them. The replacement pump is supposed to arrive today. I went ahead and ordered a second PWM pump...because I really liked how much range these things had versus the ones I have that use voltage to control the speed. There is not any identifiable difference in sound to my ear when they are running at the same speed....but the PWM versions can spin at much slower speeds.
> 
> I'll need to drain the system again to replace the pumps, and while I'm doing that, I'm going to take care of a little bit of housekeeping in the pedestal.
> 
> Here are some pictures showing I've removed the motherboard tray (the QDC's worked awesome....like them much better than my previous d-plug solution), drained the loop, and separated the pedestal from the main case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hadn't ever hooked up the Blu-ray player down in the pedestal, so I needed SATA data cable that was fairly long. None of the Akasa Pro's that I had learned how to shorten easily....were long enough to reach the pedestal, so I used a 3 ft silver SATA cable, and sleeved it in white. When done, I immediately took the sleeve off and started over. I had failed to wrap the cable in white electrical tape first...and you could tell. White sleeving is so beautiful.....when you hide any color underneath it. When you don't...it bleeds through and doesn't look right. Anyway...here is the second attempt at the cable....
> 
> 
> 
> Also down in the pedestal, I had never sleeved the Aquacomputer Flow Meter cable. Plus...even though the standard cable was long enough to reach where I wanted to plug it in, there was not much slack in the cable and it looked out of place. I want to be able to run it up to the PA2 in a manner where the wire follows the same flow as the other cables on the PSU side...so I need it to be longer. Because of the large funky connector pins on one end (for the life of me...I don't know why they did that), I ended up soldering on an additional length of wire instead of starting from scratch. I replaced the beige 3pin connector on the other end with a white one....and sleeved it all in white MDPC-X. Looks much better now.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up....I'm going to play with doing some lighting down in the pedestal, that hopefully will end up looking like a soft glow coming through the case mesh. Probably will try some strip LED's down there with wiring up to my Lamptron FC8. I'll also get the new pumps installed and wired later tonight after they arrive.


Still love seeing pictures of this build.


----------



## cpachris

Pictures and video of Blu-Ray Stealth Drive!

I'm still tinkering with stuff while I have the build torn down. I've had a stealth Blu-Ray mod on my list for awhile, so I tackled that yesterday. Here are some pics of the process.

First I removed my Blu-Ray drive from the pedestal, and I took off both the faceplate, and the trim on the tray.







I had to take the enclosure off of the drive to remove the faceplate, but it was just a few screws. Nothing tough. Next, I grabbed an extra flex bay cover that I had. When I first had my case powder coated, I had several extra covers and plates done in case I ever needed to play with them later. Came in handy.



I got out the Dremel, and took all of the sides off of the plate. Now...there is just a little curved lid on each side...that doesn't wrap far around the sides at all.



Then I took a strip of velcro and cut it to size to fit the edge of the sliding tray.





I did something similar to the inside of the flex-bay cover with the other side of the velcro.



Look in the lower right corner of the Blu-Ray drive. That little piece of foam is some foam tape I put on top of the "open tray" button. This picture shows just one piece of foam...but I had to build it up a little higher with a second piece of foam to get it to work.



I was just using a roll of foam tape like this that you can get from Lowes or Home Depot.



I played around with supporting the faceplate in different sections with different heights of foam. I'm not 100% satisfied yet...but enough to go ahead and show you how it looks. And what better way than a video....right?! The memory card reader is not installed in the middle slot for this video, but you'll get the idea. All I have to do is press on the faceplate, and the pressure of the foam activates the open tray mechanism. I could also always use the Windows "eject drive" command with the mouse, if needed. When the Blu-Ray drive is closed...you can't tell that there is anything there at all. Just what I wanted.






Working on some LED strip lighting for the pedestal right now. More soon!


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## mandrix

Nice. I've been meaning to get around to making mine stealth, but I painted it and the Aquaero faceplates to see if I like that better. I don't.








All my flex bay covers are ventilated......! Need to order a solid one at some point.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Pictures and video of Blu-Ray Stealth Drive!
> 
> I'm still tinkering with stuff while I have the build torn down. I've had a stealth Blu-Ray mod on my list for awhile, so I tackled that yesterday. Here are some pics of the process.
> 
> First I removed my Blu-Ray drive from the pedestal, and I took off both the faceplate, and the trim on the tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to take the enclosure off of the drive to remove the faceplate, but it was just a few screws. Nothing tough. Next, I grabbed an extra flex bay cover that I had. When I first had my case powder coated, I had several extra covers and plates done in case I ever needed to play with them later. Came in handy.
> 
> 
> 
> I got out the Dremel, and took all of the sides off of the plate. Now...there is just a little curved lid on each side...that doesn't wrap far around the sides at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a strip of velcro and cut it to size to fit the edge of the sliding tray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did something similar to the inside of the flex-bay cover with the other side of the velcro.
> 
> 
> 
> Look in the lower right corner of the Blu-Ray drive. That little piece of foam is some foam tape I put on top of the "open tray" button. This picture shows just one piece of foam...but I had to build it up a little higher with a second piece of foam to get it to work.
> 
> 
> 
> I was just using a roll of foam tape like this that you can get from Lowes or Home Depot.
> 
> 
> 
> I played around with supporting the faceplate in different sections with different heights of foam. I'm not 100% satisfied yet...but enough to go ahead and show you how it looks. And what better way than a video....right?! The memory card reader is not installed in the middle slot for this video, but you'll get the idea. All I have to do is press on the faceplate, and the pressure of the foam activates the open tray mechanism. I could also always use the Windows "eject drive" command with the mouse, if needed. When the Blu-Ray drive is closed...you can't tell that there is anything there at all. Just what I wanted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some LED strip lighting for the pedestal right now. More soon!


want to see the movie. "there is a problem com back later learn more" ha why did i push the button. ha ha


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Nice. I've been meaning to get around to making mine stealth, but I painted it and the Aquaero faceplates to see if I like that better. I don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All my flex bay covers are ventilated......! Need to order a solid one at some point.


Just a thought - have you considered painting all of the flexbays the same shade of blue that the AQ faceplate, FC, & rom tray have ?

At the very least the 3 single bays at top ?


----------



## Killa Cam

hey op, i hope you're ok.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> hey op, i hope you're ok.


Tornado stayed south of me today. The one yesterday was much much closer....but still a miss. Golf ball sized hail though. Fiancee's car has now been nailed by hail 4 times in the last 3 weeks. Welcome to Oklahoma in May.









Keep Oklahoma in your prayers though, because it looks like there was a lot of death and destruction here today. Children, no less.


----------



## txtrkandy

Definitely, glad to hear my fellow sooner is good, I've seen a few OK twisters myself, I once watched a Motel 6 in Norman be lifted and carried and then set down from the seat of my truck, it was an interesting day for sure, and hail damage, something I don't miss haha


----------



## cpachris

Pedestal lighting done! Pictures of process.....

This is a roll of Hitlight strip LED's. They are dirt cheap, and decently made. The entire roll of 16 feet can be found for $20 or less, depending on the density and size of the LED's. Compare that to the price of the LED strips you can buy from computer part manufacturers.











There are dotted lines every 3rd LED, where you can simply take scissors and cut through the strip, to create a custom size for your build....



I started with these 4 strips which I will use to go around the top of the pedestal.....



Although I guess I could have had one large strip that went all the way around the top of the pedestal, I chose to have breakpoints around the corners. These are already incredibly bright, and there simply wasn't a need to have lights all the way around. So....to join the LED strips together, one of the options is to solder wires to the strip. I cut some lenghts of 18 awg wire....



....joined each wire to the LED strip with a dot of solder. There are two small dots (positive and negative) on each side of the cut lines. Metal connections are exposed here...and the solder will stick to it.



...and of course sleeved and heatshrinked the wire connections to keep it looking clean. No one will be able to see down in the pedestal once the main case is attached....but it would still bother me having non-sleeved wires down there. This was fairly easy to do.







However, after I had finished connecting my four strips, and started playing around with them while they were plugged in...I started having issues with some of the solder connections breaking away from the LED strip. I fixed two of them....but after the third one happened, I decided that this was not a good solution. Once the case is on top of the pedestal, this would not be an easy fix.

So...I found these little things online. They are connectors for the LED strips, and are also relatively inexpensive at about $1.25 each. These are designed to just insert the end of an LED strip...whereever it has been cut...and you'll have connections. You can also cut the wires if you wanted to add a connector to one of them (which I did).



of course...I still had to make them pretty. Because of the size of the connector, I had to use SATA size sleeve instead of small sleeve. Still looks nice though....



I took one of the LED strips....



...and inserted it into the sleeved connector....



repeat 3 more times....and presto! You have a custom LED strip that only has lights for the exact length that you want lights.

These next pictures are of the pedestal with the lighting strips installed and turned on. I ran 4 strips all the way around the top of the pedestal, and then put two additional strips on the pump mounting bracket on the floor of the pedestal. Two separate fan connectors on the end of these, so that I could attach them separately to the FC8 fan controller. This will allow me to turn them off when the lighting effect is not desired...and also to adjust the brightness of the effect with voltage control....

These pictures are with the room lights on....and you can still see the glow coming out of the pedestal! These are VERY bright at 12 volts.







Now...I'm fairly certain that someone with better solder skills than I could probably make these work even without the connectors I used.....but this was easiest for me. There might even be some coating on the strip that I didn't remove which would make the solder adhere better....but I found my easy solution that was also inexpensive.

My hope is that these will create a glow from the pedestal that can be seen through the radiators. We'll see once I get the case on the pedestal.

Just about ready to put the case back on the pedestal. After that...I just need to wire/sleeve the new pumps, and I should be ready to fill it back up. I've changed the loop layout in some key areas...which I'll show in pictures soon.

More to come!


----------



## TATH

Nice work,

I hear its a bad day for Oklahoma because the tornado.

Hope your al well.


----------



## Big Elf

I had a similar problem with soldered joints breaking on my LED strips so I used a glue gun to drop a spot of glue on each one which seems to have stopped them breaking and doesn't seem to be badly affected by heating up the heatshrink.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txtrkandy*
> 
> Definitely, glad to hear my fellow sooner is good, I've seen a few OK twisters myself, I once watched a Motel 6 in Norman be lifted and carried and then set down from the seat of my truck, it was an interesting day for sure, and hail damage, something I don't miss haha


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> hey op, i hope you're ok.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> I hear its a bad day for Oklahoma because the tornado.
> Hope your al well.


Damage in Moore is just indescribable...but I'm sure you've all seen pictures. There is a path almost a mile wide that goes on and on and on...where everything was just scrubbed clean off the map. We have hundreds of tornadoes every year hear in Oklahoma...but rarely are they right in the middle of a populated area like that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I had a similar problem with soldered joints breaking on my LED strips so I used a glue gun to drop a spot of glue on each one which seems to have stopped them breaking and doesn't seem to be badly affected by heating up the heatshrink.


Interesting solution. Did you solder first...and then drop glue on top of it?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Interesting solution. Did you solder first...and then drop glue on top of it?


I did. Now that I think about it though when you buy them pre-assembled I'm fairly certain they also use the hot glue as well. I didn't realise at first that you could cut them to size so bought a long one which is now assembled in 4 parts and must have seen the glue they'd used.


----------



## mandrix

When I bought my led reel I bought some of these to try out:


Should make connecting strips pretty easy.

EDIT: should have added these are made by hitlights as well, got them from Amazon.


----------



## Electrocutor

You know... with all that white in there, I wonder what it would look like bathed in black light.

[Edit]
Have you thought about getting a Multiswitch to control your LED strips? It sounds like it would allow them to be controlled by the AQ5 as well as manually: on/off and dimmer.


----------



## Wibble360

^ sorry could you explain what sort of switch this is? I'm planning on using an AQ5 to control some lights, I thought it was possible to control them on/off and dimming just using the AQ5?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> ^ sorry could you explain what sort of switch this is? I'm planning on using an AQ5 to control some lights, I thought it was possible to control them on/off and dimming just using the AQ5?


It is, but the number of ports available for that is limited. If you need more: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/aqcomuusb1lt.html


----------



## mandrix

Well the output of the Aquaero's pwm headers is listed as 1A. I am considering using both headers on one of my AQ5's to run some 3528 LED strip. I'm thinking if I split the light box into two strips I can stay below the 1A limit.
Not sure yet, and I haven't done the math. I may just use my FC8 but it would be nice to control the strips from one of my Aquaero's.

I'm already running RGB LED's from both Aquaero's RGB headers, and I'm not going to mess with those circuits and possibly blow something. Seanimus448 found an RGB amp to hook up to his, though, which looks promising.

Anyone know the current draw on the 3528 LED strips? I've heard 1A/meter (120 LED's) but that seems a little high to me?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Well the output of the Aquaero's pwm headers is listed as 1A. I am considering using both headers on one of my AQ5's to run some 3528 LED strip. I'm thinking if I split the light box into two strips I can stay below the 1A limit.
> Not sure yet, and I haven't done the math. I may just use my FC8 but it would be nice to control the strips from one of my Aquaero's.
> 
> I'm already running RGB LED's from both Aquaero's RGB headers, and I'm not going to mess with those circuits and possibly blow something. Seanimus448 found an RGB amp to hook up to his, though, which looks promising.
> 
> Anyone know the current draw on the 3528 LED strips? I've heard 1A/meter (120 LED's) but that seems a little high to me?


how about using a PA2 for the leds. Did someone tryd it befor.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> When I bought my led reel I bought some of these to try out:
> 
> 
> Should make connecting strips pretty easy.
> 
> EDIT: should have added these are made by hitlights as well, got them from Amazon.


The one's I show above are similar, and are also made by Hitlights....but they are for the high density strips. The ones you are showing are for the normal density strips.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You know... with all that white in there, I wonder what it would look like bathed in black light.
> 
> [Edit]
> Have you thought about getting a Multiswitch to control your LED strips? It sounds like it would allow them to be controlled by the AQ5 as well as manually: on/off and dimmer.


Blacklight might be a cool alternative lighting scenario. Have both kinds of lights hooked up and be able to switch between the two looks. Hmmmm.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> ^ sorry could you explain what sort of switch this is? I'm planning on using an AQ5 to control some lights, I thought it was possible to control them on/off and dimming just using the AQ5?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> It is, but the number of ports available for that is limited. If you need more: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/aqcomuusb1lt.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> how about using a PA2 for the leds. Did someone tryd it befor.


The multi-switch felt like an abandoned product back when I was doing my decion making on components. And I agree, that the AQ5 is pretty limited on ports if you were going to run lights from it. But a $75 PA2 being used to power my $3 strip of LED's? A tad excessive I think.









Plus...other than the reservoir lighting changing with temperature...I don't really want any of the sensor values to adjust my normal case lighting. I'll want it on sometimes, and I'll want it off sometimes. A knob is the easiest way to accomplish this. I"m going to run all of my LED strip lighting to the FC8.

I've finished up the wiring and sleeving of the new pumps and have them installed. Pictures soon.....


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The one's I show above are similar, and are also made by Hitlights....but they are for the high density strips. The ones you are showing are for the normal density strips.
> .........................


What?
Admittedly my LED's are the "waterproof" variety, but there is no difference in contact location on the connectors I bought. Matches up with the copper "dots" on the strip perfectly.









I actually bought mine for use with any leftover strip for use under a cabinet. Much easier to make a crimp contact than trying to solder those tiny little dots, and I can exchange the opposite end for one that plugs into my tiny 12v power supply.

Have you found any reliable info on the current draw on these strips perchance? On Amazon I saw two different answers for the whole 5m strip.
I'm still thinking of running some off the pwm headers of the Aquaero's....they don't have to be tied to temperature control and it only takes a mouse click to turn them on or off. The only problem I see is staying below the 1A limit. Then if I can get all my led's running off the two Aquaero's I can ditch the FC8.
But yeah, the FC8 works fine... only in my case I'd like to eliminate it for some upcoming changes I've planned.
In the end if I can't reliably determine the current draw (guess I can break out my meter) then I'll drop the pwm header idea completely. I've already seen one guy blow a pwm header......


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> What?
> Admittedly my LED's are the "waterproof" variety, but there is no difference in contact location on the connectors I bought. Matches up with the copper "dots" on the strip perfectly.


The connectors you show are for the normal density (300 lights per roll) Hitlights. The ones I'm using are for the high density (600 lights per roll) Hitlights. There is much less spacing between the lights for the high density roll, so the connector has to be much shorter. Your lights would not work in my connectors, and my lights would not work in your connectors.

As far as current draw, I would probably trust the information on the Hitlights website. They show the normal density 3528 rolls as 2 amps for the entire 16 feet on the roll....or about 0.125 amps per foot when you cut it up. The high density ones are double this amount. They also make the larger LED 5050 strip lights, which draws even more current.


----------



## cpachris

Finishing up everything in the pedestal, so I can reassemble this thing. Couple of last minute nits.

I'm not a big believer in the impact that sealing radiators has on temps, but I found this white weather striping at Lowes that matches the white powder coat of the case almost exactly. So....why not?



It has a sticky side, so I cut some strips and put it on the radiator/fan gaps down in the pedestal. If you look closely, you'll see two strips running along the top of this 480 rad. It blends in pretty well.



I didn't bother to try and do anything on the sides, or between the fans...but I guess any little bit might help. This did quickly and easily seal up the largest gaps between the rads and the fans.

So now everything in the pedestal is done. Lighting, check. Wiring, check. Blue-ray stealth drive, check. Card reader, check. Rads/pumps/fans, check. So.....lets put this case back on for the last time during initial build.

This is the bottom of the case....that will sit on top of the pedestal.



But before I reattach it to the pedestal...I bought this AcouticPack soundproofing material....



I've never used this stuff, but read good things about it online. For those of you who haven't seen/felt it in person....this stuff is heavy. It's 7mm thick and has three layers of dense foam and rubbery type material. One side has sticky glue on it so you can cut it and stick it right on. I covered up the areas of the bottom that make sense. This sits right above the 2x pumps that are located in the pedestal. The idea here is to limit the amount of noise escaping the inside of the pedestal.



So....case is back on the pedestal now. I'm starting to work on tidying up all the temp sensors. In this last mini-revision of the loop, I finalized where I will have the coolant temp sensors...so I'm ready to work on the wiring for these. Right now, I have 10x temp sensors. For each of my two AQ5's, I'm using 2x ambient air sensors (to have an average), a rad-in coolant temp sensor, and a rad-out coolant temp sensor. I also have a temp sensor running to the memory sticks, and one that measures the temp of the air inside the case (as opposed to the ambient air sensors located outside the case).

To calibrate them, I got them all plugged into the spots on the AQ5's that they were going to permanently reside in...and then taped all of the sensors together. Then I monitored their values inside of Aquasuite, and made offset adjustments to bring all of the readings to the same amount. 7 of the 10 sensors needed no adjustments. The remaining 3 had to have offsets to make them match the others....but nothing larger than 0.4 degrees. So...they were all pretty close to begin with.



If you'll click this picture to zoom-in, you should be able to see the little labels I made for the connector sides of the temp sensors. I don't want to have to remember where to plug these back in if I ever need to unplug them.....so they now have a number that corresponds to the slot on the AQ5 that they should be plugged into.



And here are a few shots of what the dual AQ5 section is looking like with all of the wires.



I've tried hard to keep everything as neat as possible here....but there are a whole bunch of connections all terminating here. In addition to the two waterblocks and fittings that connect them, there are:

- 2x molex power for AQ5's
- 1x molex power for FC8
- 10x temp sensors
- 2x Aquabus
- 2x USB
- 2x PWM for pump
- 1x fan harness

Plus...I still have the RGB LED's, and some strip lighting going into the FC8, to finish up.

That's a lot of stuff! This area becomes kind of the central place for all connections in the case. And even though I'm going to try and keep it neat and pretty, the best part about it is that the case side door just covers this section perfectly.





I'll have an update on some things I was trying with the pumps later tonight. More to come!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The connectors you show are for the normal density (300 lights per roll) Hitlights. The ones I'm using are for the high density (600 lights per roll) Hitlights. There is much less spacing between the lights for the high density roll, so the connector has to be much shorter. Your lights would not work in my connectors, and my lights would not work in your connectors.
> 
> As far as current draw, I would probably trust the information on the Hitlights website. They show the normal density 3528 rolls as 2 amps for the entire 16 feet on the roll....or about 0.125 amps per foot when you cut it up. The high density ones are double this amount. They also make the larger LED 5050 strip lights, which draws even more current.


I do have the double density 3528 lights. I just do not understand what the density of the led spacing has to do with connecting to the strip.
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree, because the contacts on the connectors I have line up perfectly with the contacts on the strip.

I didn't know hitlights had a website, I was looking at the comments on Amazon. Thanks for the info on the current draw!

EDIT:
Ah....I see where the confusion comes in....these lights may not be made by Hitlights. However the connectors I bought are from Hitlights.
These are what I bought, as I wanted the waterproof ones which I'll put on with double sided 3M tape.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AUCJC4I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I do have the double density 3528 lights. I just do not understand what the density of the led spacing has to do with connecting to the strip.
> I guess we'll have to agree to disagree, because the contacts on the connectors I have line up perfectly with the contacts on the strip.
> 
> I didn't know hitlights had a website, I was looking at the comments on Amazon. Thanks for the info on the current draw!
> 
> EDIT:
> Ah....I see where the confusion comes in....these lights may not be made by Hitlights. However the connectors I bought are from Hitlights.
> These are what I bought, as I wanted the waterproof ones which I'll put on with double sided 3M tape.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AUCJC4I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I hope they work for you, but if they have the same LED spacing that the double density Hitlights do.....I think you may have the same problem with those lights also. They look almost identical to Hitlights. I also have the same normal density Hitlight connectors as you do, as well as the Hitlight connectors made for the high density LED strips that I showed earlier. The connectors you have will not work with the high density Hitlight strips....it's because of how deep into the connector the high density strips can (or in this case can't) be pushed. These pictures are of my trying to put the high density strips, into the normal density connectors that you have.




Not sure how clear these pictures are, but because there are twice as many LED's on the high density strip...there is MUCH less distance between the contact spots on the strip and the LED. So...when using the high density strips, you can't push the strip far enough down into the connector to make contact with the contact spots. The LED keeps it from going in deeper. There is more distance on the normal density strips....and they slide down further into the connector. The only way the normal density connectors could be used with the high density strips....is either to cut out some of the plastic lid that snaps down on the connector (so that LED clears), or to remove the first LED light on the strip closest to the connector.

I'd be interested to know if you get them to work. Good luck!


----------



## cpachris

Finishing the new pumps!

I showed this AcoutiPack material in my last post. Since the only thing I can actually hear in my build is the pumps...I thought....why not try some of this stuff on the pumps? So....



....here is one of my two new PWM pumps. You'll recall I got one of these a couple of weeks ago....liked it....but the rpm sensor was broken. FrozenCPU stepped up and sent a new one...and I ordered one additional PWM pump at the same time. The plan is to replace both of the pumps in the main case compartment with these PWM versions.



...and since it's going in this Bitspower mod kit....why not line the inside of the mod kit with the soundproofing material? There is not a lot of space between the mod kit and the pump...but there is a little. Lets try.



So I cut a 33mm wide strip of the AcoutiPack soundproofing material.





Removed the sticky side cover...and wrapped it around the pump. Nice fit!



But....when I tried to put the mod kit cover back on the pump....it would not fit. This stuff is the 7mm version of their product, and that is pretty thick. It does compress some....but try as I might....I could not get the mod kit to fit all the way onto the pump. AcoutiPack also sells a 4mm version of their soundproofing that is just two layers instead of three....but I can only work with what I have. The 7mm stuff will not fit. It's close. But won't fit. Fail.

Next idea. I don't have the 2 layer 4mm version....but what if I created it? So...I cut another 33mm strip, and then used an exacto knife to scrape off the top layer of foam.



Here you can see we are down to one layer of foam, and one layer of the rubbery type stuff.





I removed the sticky side cover, and wrapped it around the pump again. Nice fit! I have high hopes that this will fit inside the mod kit.





Fail! It was real close to fitting...but the rubbery type layer on the soundproofing just doesn't have a lot of slide to it. It creates a lot of friction and just bunched up the soundproofing material inside the mod kit. No bueno.



Ok....don't laugh...but I tried a final and third time to get it to fit. I cut another 33mm strip, scraped off one layer of foam....and this time....coated the outside layer with vaseline. I thought this might help it slide into the mod kit.





Fail....once again. It's real close to fitting, and I imagine someone might be able to get this to work...but I couldn't. I think encasing the pump with soundproofing material and then enclosing it in one of these mod kits holds some promise for making these already quiet pumps even quieter. I might try again with some of the 4mm thick Acoustipack next time I have the pumps disassembled. But for now...I give up.

But I did go ahead and cut a circle of the soundproofing material and apply it to the back disk of the mod kit. This may help some with absorbing some of the sound frequencies. We'll see. But it was easy to do....and can't hurt anything....so why not?





And finally I sleeved the wires. I took a different approach this time than I did with the last pump. For my last pump in the main case, I removed the molex connector and extended the wires all the way to PSU and put a connector on so that the pump plugged directly into the PSU. While this approach is real clean looking....what I didn't like about it was that it makes it more difficult to power up the pump with a different PSU while filling your case. It's not uncommon to find a small unexpected leak if you have made some loop layout changes. So...I like to fill the loop and bleed it without any power being plugged in for the main board. If the pump power is tied directly to a PSU connector, not only will you not have much slack in the cable to reach an external power supply...but if the pinout of that PSU's 6-pin connector is different than the one in your case...you couldn't do it anyway. So...there are difficulties in powering the pump up with an external power supply.

I'm hoping to be working in this case for years to come...so one of my goals is to make it as painless as possible to disassemble and reassemble stuff. For me...that requires just having a standard molex connector on the pump...so that ANY PSU could be used externally to power it up when filling/bleeding the loop. That's the route I took with these two.

I also extended the rpm and PWM wires so that they would reach the Aquaero's, and sleeved everything in MDPC-X.



Now...lets return it to an operational state, filled up, leak tested and running. More soon!


----------



## fantasticgcg

Hi Awesome build!!!








Could i ask where you ordered those white bitspower fittings from?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fantasticgcg*
> 
> Hi Awesome build!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could i ask where you ordered those white bitspower fittings from?


Thanks! Got most of mine directly from Bitspower....but FrozenCPU and PPCS both have a pretty big collection now.


----------



## Electrocutor

Could you not have just wrapped the outside of the rubber with a paper sleeve so it would slide easily against the metal? Well, that back side is where the holes are at, so it's liable to be the loudest part anyway.

Are you going to combine the wiring (minus the rpm wire) of the two pumps since they run together in series? You'll want the modulation wire from both to be attached to the same AQ5 pwm header. Then someday you could replace the other two pedestal series pumps with pwm and put them onto the other AQ5.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I hope they work for you, but if they have the same LED spacing that the double density Hitlights do.....I think you may have the same problem with those lights also. They look almost identical to Hitlights. I also have the same normal density Hitlight connectors as you do, as well as the Hitlight connectors made for the high density LED strips that I showed earlier. The connectors you have will not work with the high density Hitlight strips....it's because of how deep into the connector the high density strips can (or in this case can't) be pushed. These pictures are of my trying to put the high density strips, into the normal density connectors that you have.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how clear these pictures are, but because there are twice as many LED's on the high density strip...there is MUCH less distance between the contact spots on the strip and the LED. So...when using the high density strips, you can't push the strip far enough down into the connector to make contact with the contact spots. The LED keeps it from going in deeper. There is more distance on the normal density strips....and they slide down further into the connector. The only way the normal density connectors could be used with the high density strips....is either to cut out some of the plastic lid that snaps down on the connector (so that LED clears), or to remove the first LED light on the strip closest to the connector.
> 
> I'd be interested to know if you get them to work. Good luck!


I understand now.








Thanks for taking the time to post the pics and fully explaining. + rep for that. Do you happen to have a link to the proper connector?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Could you not have just wrapped the outside of the rubber with a paper sleeve so it would slide easily against the metal? Well, that back side is where the holes are at, so it's liable to be the loudest part anyway.
> 
> Are you going to combine the wiring (minus the rpm wire) of the two pumps since they run together in series? You'll want the modulation wire from both to be attached to the same AQ5 pwm header. Then someday you could replace the other two pedestal series pumps with pwm and put them onto the other AQ5.


Hrm. Paper actually may have been better than vaseline. May give that a shot next times pumps are disconnected.

Right now, I have not combined the PWM wires. Each pump is being controlled by one of the AQ5's. If I ever were to have more PWM pumps...I would probably need to do this. But why replace the two in the pedestal? Why not just add two more to the mix? 6 pumps.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I understand now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to post the pics and fully explaining. + rep for that. Do you happen to have a link to the proper connector?


This is the one on the Hitlights website. I did a quick look and couldn't find them on Amazon. But Hitlights ships pretty quickly also.


----------



## cpachris

Backup and running! Running overnight....no leaks at all this time.







Part of the loop layout change was this section down here underneath the from AMS 360 radiator. I've put the two AMS 360 radiators in parallel flow, and cleaned up the loop layout a bit in the process.



Spoiler: Previous Layout







In the old layout picture above, you'll see that the connections coming up from the pedestal (not actually plugged in in the picture above) have a long reach around the reservoir line down to the pedestal. I wish I had the same angle picture...but the new layout does not take up near as much space. The connection (dplug) coming up from the pedestal goes to a T-block and then splits to each of the two AMS 360 radiators. On the PSU side...there is a similar setup for the out ports. They join in a T-block and then head up to the 360 SR-1's on top of the case.



And in this picture, you'll see that all of the pump connections are done on the ports behind the pumps. In the old layout, I used the top port for the final out, and I just never liked the way this looked. Much cleaner look now. Playing with some red/white combination of 3/8 inch adaptor and stop plugs for the top ports. Those with sharp eyes will also see a Bitspower QDC to the right of the pumps. I'm using a Y-Block that splits into a drain line (used with the QDC) and a line into the motherboard subloop. If I need to drain it, I just attach the otherside of the QDC with a tube...and it starts draining.



In this picture, you'll see the Bitspower quick disconnect I'm using for the tubing into the board. I was worried how the black QDC would look with the other white fittings, but I think it kind of disappears into the board. I like it, and it sure makes the motherboard tray easy to disconnect and take out.



...and one more shot of the full layout of the board. This picture gives you a good view of how the new waterblock on the Areca raid card fits into the grand scheme. It goes: VRM>RAM>CPU>RAM>GPU's(parallel)>RAID>Chipset



More results later...but initial results are that moving the AMS rads into a parallel setup increased flow just a little bit for the radiator portion of the loop....but not the motherboard loop. Because of the connection I have between the two reservoirs....the least restrictive subloop (motherboard vs radiators) can get more flow than the other one. The radiator subloop gets 1.4 gpm now (was between 1.2 and 1.3 previously), while the motherboard subloop can get up to 0.9 gpm.

Based on what I had seen previously with the CPU subloop and the GPU subloop....I think it's the Aquacomputer Aquagrafx 690 blocks that are the most restrictive part of the loop. I already have those two in parallel. Temps are great....so I'm not too worried about increasing flow even more....but there is a part of me that wants to.







Other than moving the RAM blocks to parallel....any other ideas on increasing flow in the motherboard subloop?


----------



## STUNT1990

Awesome!
I need to read this whole thread soon


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> any other ideas on increasing flow in the motherboard subloop


RAM blocks in parallel

AQ5 blocks in parallel

RAID card and chipset in parallel (if their restriction is very similar)

If your VRM block is very restrictive (doubtful), you could add a partial bypass valve.

Add a valve between the two reservoirs so you can have all four pumps working in series if you desire it.

It looks like the bent clear tubing under the AMS rad is too tight of a corner and is pinching the tube?

The least restriction for pumps is to go in the front center and out the side edge (in an L shape); I'm not sure how much this would change, but that would remove 3 right angles from your current setup I think.

How restrictive is your flow meter? You could create a straight bypass using a full ID valve if it would help when not taking measurements.

Probably the most restriction is being caused by how many G1/4 connections, angles, and fittings you are going through (each is small, but there are a lot to add up); but I'm not sure you can do much about that without sacrificing aesthetics.

Use a pair of MCP35X or an Iwaki.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Add a valve between the two reservoirs so you can have all four pumps working in series if you desire it.


This idea intrigues me the most. I've seen how severely flow diverts to the path of least resistance when given a choice. That's why I'm leery of running different block in parallel when I don't know how similar the restriction is. But I'm wondering if having this connection between the two reservoirs is kind of creating that situation for me. The radiator subloop clearly has less resistance, and I'm getting up to 1.4 gpm through there. But...flow stays closer to 0.9 gpm through the motherboard subloop....because the coolant chooses the path of traveling this connection between the reservoirs and goes back through the radiator subloop again instead of being forced through the motherboard subloop. This isn't necessarily undesirable, since it means that the focus is on removing heat from the coolant...and less on removing heat from the components. Would work fantastic in low heat (idling) situations where I'm trying to spin the fans very slow (or not at all) and keep the coolant temp low.

But it probably is not as desirable when really stressing the components and trying to remove as much heat from the CPU/GPU's as possible. For these situations...more flow through the motherboard subloop would clearly be desirable. Closing the valve would utilize any remaining pressure after traveling through the radiator subloop and force more coolant through the motherboard subloop. I've played around with AQ5 temp data enough to know that more flow reduces the component temperatures....sometimes significantly.

I think I'll definitely add the valve. It's quick and easy....don't even have to drain everything all the way. Just a little bit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> RAM blocks in parallel


This may be the next largest increase in flow. I would guess these are pretty restrictive. Very thin. Plus...they are completely for aesthetics. Early on when I was benchmarking on air....the memory sticks never heated up much at all. Maybe 35c when I was running memory benchmarks. So these blocks are unnecessary....but I like the way they look. I may play with parallel....and I may just take them out and see if they improves flow much. I could always put back on the aluminum fin heatsinks...and paint them white. Or have them copper plated.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> How restrictive is your flow meter? You could create a straight bypass using a full ID valve if it would help when not taking measurements.


Martin tested this model awhile back and it is fairly low restriction. About 0.25 psi pressure drop at 1.0 gpm. I've got two of them...but that's not a lot. Extra connections for building bypass may negate any beneficial impact.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> AQ5 blocks in parallel


Haven't ever seen any restriction testing for these....unsure of impact. They just fit together so perfectly right now...I hate to mess with that setup. Plus...they are actually in the radiator subloop already. Flow comes out of the top 480, then to the AQ5 blocks, then to reservoir. So they are not really on the part of the loop that needs to improve. Unless...the valve idea between the reservoirs (discussed above) really helps...and then I guess any improvement serves the entire loop once it is full serial.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> The least restriction for pumps is to go in the front center and out the side edge (in an L shape); I'm not sure how much this would change, but that would remove 3 right angles from your current setup I think.


I've seen testing of impact of using front center for inlets....but haven't ever seen anything definitive on whether the outlet impacts anything. I'm using the front center inlets already. And I think that changing to using the top port for the outlet...would actually add another right angle for me. I don't see any benefit to changing this setup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> It looks like the bent clear tubing under the AMS rad is too tight of a corner and is pinching the tube?


It pinches just a tad...but nothing extreme. Probably still larger than any G1/4 connections....so not adding much to restriction. And...it's on the radiator subloop which already has pretty good flow. Might play with options next time it's drained. Could do away with any pinch if I added another angle connector....but not sure this would improve anything.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Probably the most restriction is being caused by how many G1/4 connections, angles, and fittings you are going through (each is small, but there are a lot to add up); but I'm not sure you can do much about that without sacrificing aesthetics.


May be true.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Use a pair of MCP35X or an Iwaki.


I'd probably go the route of more D5's before adding a different or more powerful pump. I like the way they look...and I like the way they sound. I actually do have the perfect spot for 1 or 2 more D5's on the PSU side....right on top of the AMS rad. That would be the ultimate in redundancy....six pumps.









Appreciate all the ideas!


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Remove as many 90deg as possible and use 2 45deg fittings. I know when my dad did this for our pool there was a huge increase in flow.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> Remove as many 90deg as possible and use 2 45deg fittings. I know when my dad did this for our pool there was a huge increase in flow.


Two 45 degrees together to make a 90 degree? Or a 45 degree...separated by some tubing....and another 45 degree?


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Two 45 degrees together to make a 90 degree? Or a 45 degree...separated by some tubing....and another 45 degree?


Preferably with the tubing separating, 90degrees are terrible for restrictions


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Preferably with the tubing separating, 90degrees are terrible for restrictions


Ya know...I've seen that often suggested....but never tested. Wonder if anyone with equipment would, or has, done something to give us a feel for the true pressure drop created by 90 degree fittings.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ya know...I've seen that often suggested....but never tested. Wonder if anyone with equipment would, or has, done something to give us a feel for the true pressure drop created by 90 degree fittings.


I guess its all about going in as straight lines as possible, someone _must_ have done this by now though


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Two 45 degrees together to make a 90 degree? Or a 45 degree...separated by some tubing....and another 45 degree?


From my experience with R.O. units making the bending as gradually as possible is best I never seen a huge decrease with tube between the two 45.. even better then 45's is 3 30's. I was able to increase potable water production around 20%. The trick is make the 90deg turn as shallow as possible...


----------



## cpachris

Yes...I have no doubt that the sharper the turn...the more restrictive it is. I just wonder if we are talking about pressure drops that are significant at all. I wonder if Martin might be willing to test some 90 degree angles vs some other angles. Hmmmmmm......


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yes...I have no doubt that the sharper the turn...the more restrictive it is. I just wonder if we are talking about pressure drops that are significant at all. I wonder if Martin might be willing to test some 90 degree angles vs some other angles. Hmmmmmm......


And more specifically a curved 90 vs a right-angle 90.


----------



## Aximous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ya know...I've seen that often suggested....but never tested. Wonder if anyone with equipment would, or has, done something to give us a feel for the true pressure drop created by 90 degree fittings.


Martin did test elbows, the chart really speaks for itself:

source


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aximous*
> 
> Martin did test elbows, the chart really speaks for itself:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> source


+rep good sir


----------



## cpachris

It does show how small the impact really is when you only have one angled fitting...but I'd still be interested in seeing:

- curved 90 vs hard 90
- two 90 put together to form a 180
- 30 vs 45 vs 90
- straight fittings vs tubing

I guess I'd be interested to see if the restriction is simply an add em' up based on the number of fittings...or if the restriction is greater as you add more fittings and change the direction of the flow more than one time.

I've got a ton of extra fittings of all sizes....I might see if Martin has the time or desire to do a little more testing in this area.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *STUNT1990*
> 
> Awesome!
> I need to read this whole thread soon


Ha you need a six week holiday for that.


----------



## mandrix

On the face of it I would think that a rotary 90 would be much less restrictive than a hard 90....and I've always used rotaries where I could instead of hard 90* turns. But, and this is a big but, it depends on how restrictive the internals of the rotary is. Some say they are quite restrictive, but I don't know. I would still think they would be better than a hard 90.

Just by using G 1/4 fittings you are already at what? about 9mm ID? So no matter how much larger you go on tubing or piping it makes no difference I would think, which brings us back to the impact of changing direction of flow I guess.

You have flow meters and pumps. You could do your own testing.........


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

WOW 4 days no posts. is this some kind of record?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> WOW 4 days no posts. is this some kind of record?


Not by a long shot. But I'll go and update now so that I don't set a new record.









In a previous post, I showed how you could take the Akasa Pro Slim SATA cables and cut them to custom sizes for your build. I'm working on the SATA cable management right now, and I decided that I wanted my SATA cables to be a few centimeters shorter than last time I made them. So.....





I made them 12 centimeters long this time, and they came out beautiful. I opted to use SATA size shrink this time instead of small shrink, and put it all the way up around the connector. Previously, I had used small shrink and kept it down below the connector. The shrink had pulled away a little from the connector, and I didn't like how it was looking.

Feeling proud of my cute little SATA cords, I plugged everthing back in and immediately had issues. 3 of the 6 disks that are not plugged into the Areca card, were not recognized by the system. Since the only thing that had changed was the SATA cable, clearly the cable was not working. When I had made some of these previously, I had a ton of people PM me wanting details, and several people had issues when they made theirs with the cable not working. I didn't have this issue at all the first few I had made, but I sure did this time. Not sure if I rushed through putting the connectors back on or what. If you don't line up the pins exactly with the clip and push down straight enough so that they pierce the cable...it's not going to work.

Anyway, I decided to go with some more conventional SATA cables that were already fairly short....and were made in white! Had to scrap my new little beauties and start over...but these should be nice also. Notice the white cable and the white connector!



Even though they were white already...of course I'm going to sleeve them. Since the cables were already white...there was no need to cover with electrical tape before sleeving. These were real quick and easy to do.



Here are some shots of them plugged into the motherboard. I did one in the custom dyed crimson MDPC-X, and the rest in white MDPC-X:





And a couple plugged into the drives themselves.





Another thing I've been playing with the last few days is lighting. The FrozeQ helix reservoir has always had the ultra violet cold cathode tube running up the middle of the reservoir. It's supposed to activate the UV effect of the helix tubes....but doesn't really create much of an effect. And....there is a glowing purple tube going up the middle of my reservoir. Didn't really match the color scheme at all. I've been playing with some other options. I wired up some 5mm UV LED's that I put in the top and bottom of the reservoir. The nice thing about this layout was that there was no obvious purple lighting. The lights were hidden in the reservoir caps. But...there was very little impact of the UV light on the helix tubing.

I played with hiding a UV cold cathode tube between the AMS rad and the case...so that it cast it's light at the reservoir....but would hide the actual light from view. Didn't work well. Still created a purplish glow in the case....and had very little UV impact on the helix tubing.

So I've started playing with different color cold cathode lights in the reservoir. I have red and white...and I think white is my favorite. More of a clean professional look....rather than the UV "gamey" look. Some pics below:





Although I like it...it's very bright. And since I have it plugged into the inverter, and the inverter is being bed directly from the PSU...I can't control the brightness. Does anyone know whether I could power the inverter from my FC8 and undervolt it to dim the lights? I don't know if cold cathodes work that way.

Working on tidying up the heatshrink on my SATA breakout cables for the Areca card right now. They had gotten a little sloppy. More soon!


----------



## cpachris

Finished up the second flow meter cable today. Replaced the beige connector and ugly black netting that Aquacomputer ships them with....for some white MDPC-X and a white fan connector and heatshrink. I didn't take a picture of just the cable...but this picture shows the flow meter and cable. This flow meter is tucked away on the PSU side of the case. It has the faceplate of the flow meter powder coated n white, and the bolts have been copper plated. Coolant comes around the motherboard tray from the pumps, through this flow meter, and then back up to the top of the case to wrap around back to the motherboard side.



Thought I'd go ahead and show current state of cabling on the PSU side of the case. I haven't done any real cable management yet. Still working on getting everything sleeved....then I'll work on arranging and securing it all.



There's really only 1 cable left that is not custom length and/or sleeved. It's the molex power for the 2 new pumps. That is what I'll be working on next.





I also think I'm going to redo the power harness for the SATA cables. Instead of two separate power harnesses, I think I'm going to combine them into one. That will eliminate that middle group of cables that runs down in front of the bottom group of 8 SSD's. Also...for future proofing...I think I'll add 2 more connections on top and bottom of the power harness, so that I can add more SSD's when desired. I think I could add 2x SSD's to the top just by stacking them with velcro on existing stack. No need for another drive cage. Same with bottom.



More soon!


----------



## Electrocutor

So how heavy is this when it's full of water?


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

I say we should play a guessing game winner gets a free ou sticker... Lol


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> So how heavy is this when it's full of water?


probably over 9000.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> probably over 9000.


That the read-out on your Google glass?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> That the read-out on your Google glass?


sure


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> sure


*sigh* I attempted to give a subtle reference in humor; perhaps some visual clarification is required?




Okay... anyway, derailment terminated.


----------



## adi518

Nasa called. They're saying they're out of budget soon.


----------



## casetitan

Just took me a total of 3hours and 57minutes to get through all 331pages:thumb: ! Time well spend and subbed


----------



## redxmaverick

I love that crimson/maroon color.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Nasa called. They're saying they're out of budget soon.


I can't help but sidetrack from this:

NASA's budget is less than 0.5% of the national budget: so about 17.5 billion. Methinks he has a ways to go... It's actually pretty sad that NASA loses about another 0.03% of their budget every year. It's also sad that President Obama has shut down most all of the programs that kids used to dream about NASA for: the space missions are classified and done by the air force now.

Kudos to Elon Musk for looking forward and founding SpaceX.

Is it okay for me to derail so much? Hmm.
Quote:


> More soon!


When? You must be nearing completion. All hail your new primary machine!


----------



## mandrix

Interesting on your SATA data cable shortening.....I never had better than a 50% success rate with that. This is using the Akasa cables.
But now Rosewill (Newegg's house brand) is selling mini slims from Germany that look identical to the Akasa's, and for a much better price as well. I've bought two sizes of them and it appears one could disassemble them the same way as with the Akasa's.
I didn't buy them to shorten (though they really need it) but to fit through a slot from my case to the pedestal HDD cage.


----------



## seross69

I don't like the idea of a 50% failure rate on data cables even the ones that don't fail I wonder if you are losing some performance from them??


----------



## JambonJovi

Hey guys,

I would just like to say what a shame it is for me to discover this thread only now.
About 3-4 weeks ago to be exact, but it's 1 year bit too late.
Yes I am a new user, although I have been hiding in the oc.net bushes for about
8-9 months now, and only ever visited the website when I needed some
new/clarifying information, but THIS build made me do the next step and register.
I'm sure I'm not the first and last person to do so









cpachris,
Hats off to you Sir.
I spent an amazing week going through every single one of your logs.
The sheer ridiculousness of the build and the meticulous attention to detail,
that would put my OCD girlfriend to shame (don't tell her I said that haha)
is what made me join and is definitely worthy of my first comment.

Good luck with it. I'm hoping you're not done with it yet and
that it'll keep all of us entertained for quite some time.

I'll be watching.


----------



## cpachris

Today I'm working on case lighting. I've opted to use these 5050 Hitlights for this go around instead of the 3528 Hitlights I was using last time. They are bigger LED's on the strip, use more wattage, and are definitely brighter than the 3528's I used in the pedestal. Just like the others, you can trim them to whatever size you want with scissors. Just like the others...they are dirt cheap. You can get a 16 foot roll for less than $20.



This shot it looking up at the top of the case. The strip I cut runs along the top on the motherboard side of the case. You can just make out the white MDPC-X sleeving and heatshrink I used to make everything pretty.



The strip runs the full length of the case....and I put a 3pin connector on one end so I could plug it into my FC8 for dimming.



Daylight right now, so you can't really see much in this picture...but it really lights up the entire case nicely. Very bright. When the case door is closed...you really don't get a sense of where the light is coming from. It just floods everything with amazingly bright light. I'm using the "cool white" instead of the "warm white". I tried both and the cool white matches the CaseLabs interior matte white color better.



Working on a similar one for the PSU side right now. I'll take a couple of pics tonight when it's a little darker.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Are you finding these LED strips on Amazon? I bought from http://www.modelersbrand.com/html/category/ledtape.html and they were pretty expensive... also, where do you find the connectors?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Wibble360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> cpachris,
> I spent an amazing week going through every single one of your logs.
> The sheer ridiculousness of the build and the meticulous attention to detail...


I've considered reading from start to finish again to make sure I've picked up all the useful tips for my build. Would be like reading Lord of the Rings again, lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Are you finding these LED strips on Amazon? I bought from http://www.modelersbrand.com/html/category/ledtape.html and they were pretty expensive... also, where do you find the connectors?
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I got some off eBay - like Chris said, dirt cheap (about £12 per 5 metre roll for 60LED/m splashproof 5050s)


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> I've considered reading from start to finish again to make sure I've picked up all the useful tips for my build. Would be like reading Lord of the Rings again, lol
> I got some off eBay - like Chris said, dirt cheap (about £12 per 5 metre roll for 60LED/m splashproof 5050s)


I also picked mine up from eBay


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Are you finding these LED strips on Amazon? I bought from http://www.modelersbrand.com/html/category/ledtape.html and they were pretty expensive... also, where do you find the connectors?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> I got some off eBay - like Chris said, dirt cheap (about £12 per 5 metre roll for 60LED/m splashproof 5050s)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> I also picked mine up from eBay


I've bought them directly from Hitlights and also from Amazon. Amazon stocks some of the Hitlights so you can get their super speedy delivery when ordering through them. Here is a link directly to the Hitlights page for the 5050 lights and the connectors. You can search on the product description in Amazon and find the same stuff.

Jeffinslaw....that moderlersbrand stuff looks exactly the same....and probably is. How much did you have to pay for it? Their prices are not online. At $20 bucks a roll for 16+ feet....the Hitlights are less than $1.25 per foot. Even less than that if you go with the 3528 size instead of the 5050 size. Of course, you do have to do some work with them. I finished the lighting for the PSU side of the case, and thought I'd include some more pictures of how I prep the connectors, for those who might be wanting to do the same thing.

First, start with a roll of Hitlights, and one of the connectors I included a link to above:



The connectors are really intended to connect two separate LED strips together...but I want to use it to securely fasten one end of the lighting to some wiring that I will create. You can simply solder the wiring directly to the LED strips, but I had less luck with that, and prefer this approach now. So...I just cut the wiring between the connectors in half like this, and strip off about 1/2 inch of insulation:



I want to run these wires to the fan controller, so I'll need to lengthen the wires. So I cut two strips of 22 awg wire. I typically use white wire when I'm going to sleeve in white. I stripped off about 1/2 inch of insulation off of one end of both of these wires.



To join my white wires to the wires coming out of the connector, first I twist them together, and then I solder them to secure the connection. The twist I use is done like this:



Here is what it looks like with my wires:



Here are the wires with some solder securing the connection. Don't make fun of my solder skills. I've gotten better...but clearly don't have a future doing any type of intricate solder work.













Since you don't want your connection exposed...the next thing I do is put some heatshrink over the connection. I use some ridiculously small heatshrink (don't remember the size). The picture below shows some normal size heatshrink on the left, and the small stuff I use when joining wires on the right. It barely fits over the wire, ....doesn't add much of a bulge underneath sleeving....and really adds some more strength to your connection.



Here is the connection with the heatrshrink covering it:



I used some white electrical tape to cover the red/black wires coming out of the connector. Color bleed through would be bad with those colors and white sleeving. Then, I crimped some fan connector pins onto the other end of the wires.



Next I slide some white MDPC-X sleeving over the wires...



The I slipped some SATA shrink on to the LED strip connector end...



Shrunk it down....



I put a white fan connector on the end that I crimped pins for....



Slipped some SATA shrink on to the fan connector end....



Shrunk it down....



And....it's done. Really doesn't take long at all to make a custom length wire to connect to your custom length LED strip. Maybe 20 or 30 minutes tops.



Now...you open up the LED strip connector and you can see the contacts that will make the connection with the LED strip...



You simply slide the LED strip into the connector and underneath the contacts...



...and then click the connector flap back down on top of the LED strip. Done. The LED strip has 3m sticky tape on one side...so you can just peel off the back and stick this anywhere in your build you want to.



These are more daytime shots....but even in full daylight, you can see how much light is coming from inside the case. At night...I really have to dim the strips using my fan controller....or they are too bright....and ruin the effect of the lights in my reservoirs.







Another benefit of making your own LED strip connector and cabling...is that if I ever want to change LED strip colors...all I would have to do is cut the LED strip to size with scissors and stick it into the cable I built. Same thing if the LED's ever burn out. The connector is forever. One-time work....less frustration later down the road. It's also very easy to do. I highly encourage you to get a roll of these dirt cheap lights and play with doing some yourself.

The prices that some vendors charge for LED strips is astronomical compared to these. The Bitfenix that FrozenCPU sells are $34 for about 20 inches. That's more than $20 per foot, instead of $1.25 per foot for the Hitlights. All you are getting for your extra money is that they have put a connector on the end already. If you are willing to do a little work...you can have much better looking and more custom cabling for your LED strips at a fraction of the price.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've bought them directly from Hitlights and also from Amazon. Amazon stocks some of the Hitlights so you can get their super speedy delivery when ordering through them. Here is a link directly to the Hitlights page for the 5050 lights and the connectors. You can search on the product description in Amazon and find the same stuff.
> 
> Jeffinslaw....that moderlersbrand stuff looks exactly the same....and probably is. How much did you have to pay for it? Their prices are not online. At $20 bucks a roll for 16+ feet....the Hitlights are less than $1.25 per foot. Even less than that if you go with the 3528 size instead of the 5050 size. Of course, you do have to do some work with them. I finished the lighting for the PSU side of the case, and thought I'd include some more pictures of how I prep the connectors, for those who might be wanting to do the same thing.
> 
> First, start with a roll of Hitlights, and one of the connectors I included a link to above:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The connectors are really intended to connect two separate LED strips together...but I want to use it to securely fasten one end of the lighting to some wiring that I will create. You can simply solder the wiring directly to the LED strips, but I had less luck with that, and prefer this approach now. So...I just cut the wiring between the connectors in half like this, and strip off about 1/2 inch of insulation:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to run these wires to the fan controller, so I'll need to lengthen the wires. So I cut two strips of 22 awg wire. I typically use white wire when I'm going to sleeve in white. I stripped off about 1/2 inch of insulation off of one end of both of these wires.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To join my white wires to the wires coming out of the connector, first I twist them together, and then I solder them to secure the connection. The twist I use is done like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like with my wires:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the wires with some solder securing the connection. Don't make fun of my solder skills. I've gotten better...but clearly don't have a future doing any type of intricate solder work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since you don't want your connection exposed...the next thing I do is put some heatshrink over the connection. I use some ridiculously small heatshrink (don't remember the size). The picture below shows some normal size heatshrink on the left, and the small stuff I use when joining wires on the right. It barely fits over the wire, ....doesn't add much of a bulge underneath sleeving....and really adds some more strength to your connection.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the connection with the heatrshrink covering it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used some white electrical tape to cover the red/black wires coming out of the connector. Color bleed through would be bad with those colors and white sleeving. Then, I crimped some fan connector pins onto the other end of the wires.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I slide some white MDPC-X sleeving over the wires...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The I slipped some SATA shrink on to the LED strip connector end...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shrunk it down....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a white fan connector on the end that I crimped pins for....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slipped some SATA shrink on to the fan connector end....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shrunk it down....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And....it's done. Really doesn't take long at all to make a custom length wire to connect to your custom length LED strip. Maybe 20 or 30 minutes tops.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now...you open up the LED strip connector and you can see the contacts that will make the connection with the LED strip...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You simply slide the LED strip into the connector and underneath the contacts...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and then click the connector flap back down on top of the LED strip. Done. The LED strip has 3m sticky tape on one side...so you can just peel off the back and stick this anywhere in your build you want to.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are more daytime shots....but even in full daylight, you can see how much light is coming from inside the case. At night...I really have to dim the strips using my fan controller....or they are too bright....and ruin the effect of the lights in my reservoirs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another benefit of making your own LED strip connector and cabling...is that if I ever want to change LED strip colors...all I would have to do is cut the LED strip to size with scissors and stick it into the cable I built. Same thing if the LED's ever burn out. The connector is forever. One-time work....less frustration later down the road. It's also very easy to do. I highly encourage you to get a roll of these dirt cheap lights and play with doing some yourself.
> 
> The prices that some vendors charge for LED strips is astronomical compared to these. The Bitfenix that FrozenCPU sells are $34 for about 20 inches. That's more than $20 per foot, instead of $1.25 per foot for the Hitlights. All you are getting for your extra money is that they have put a connector on the end already. If you are willing to do a little work...you can have much better looking and more custom cabling for your LED strips at a fraction of the price.


Hi Chris,
See your busy. I use a sort of grease to make the solder more fluid. Tomorrowe i wil take a look for the name. it works great.


----------



## seross69

Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do this it is a big help...


----------



## Barefooter

I have been planning a CaseLabs build for awhile now. I was doing some research just trying to get as many ideas as I could. A google search landed me somewhere in the middle of this thread. I immediately knew that I had to start at the beginning of the thread, and at the time there was already over 300 pages with over 3,000 posts! It took me awhile, but I have read every post on every page here, and I have never read an entire thread of this size ever!

I have visited this site before, but not been a regular, so even though this is not my first post, I did join OCN because of this build log. I have been active on many other forums of differents interests over the years, but I must say that this thread is my "FAVORITE THREAD" of all time!

I found it to be entertaining, informative, and did not stray off topic too much. All the tutorials are wonderful, I really learned so much and I'm sure I'll be referring back to it often during my own build. I am even considering doing a build log myself.

So I want to thank Cpachris for all the efforts, great photos, and great ride it has been. Can't wait to see if finished!


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Happy father's day.... What is you projected watts per fan when you have them under voltage I can't find it in the form...


----------



## cpachris

Extra Molex Power for Motherboard

The Asrock Extreme11 has two auxiliary power connections that they recommend to use if you are using multiple video cards. They are optional, but I want to make sure that my board, and all PCIe cards, have all the power they need as I enter my overclocking phase. I had already made a custom molex connector that came up from the bottom side of the case and plugged into the molex at the bottom of the AE11 board. Today...I'm trying to make one that plugs into the other molex power connector. This one is pretty poorly placed, sitting right below the CPU and above the first PCIe slot. Yuck. Anyway...here goes.

First...cut some wires to length...pinned the ends, and sleeved it. Poof. Another custom length molex to PSU power cable. Nothing new here....keep moving.



It actually wasn't as horrible as I thought it might be. I connected to the board, and then wrapped the cable around the bottom of the left memory waterblock, and then up the side of the block and through the cutout to the PSU side of the case. Not as bad as I feared! Pics below....



In these...you can also see the other molex power connector being plugged into the bottom of the board.





Will be starting some overclocking soon....along with the required temperature and benchmarks to accompany each overclock level. But next is putting the valve between the reservoir spill over line...as suggested previously...to see if that increases flow rate through the motherboard subloop.


----------



## seross69

Look so good.. Still thinking about the Asrock Extreme 11.. Could you tell me how the LSI Ports worked for you as I remember reading about it being hard to get a raid 0 setup on this and never could figure out if they were trying to boot from that or just a data drive? I like having Raid 0 drives and keeping them backed up that way I have the speed and security.. Can you give me some information on this or have you tried it?


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*


Are you planning on getting rid of those awful white/clear cable tidy clips things?


----------



## socketus

wassamattt U ? doncha like berettes in a pretty girl's hair ???


----------



## barkinos98

chris, its been a long time since i last posted here.







i love how the build is going but have three things to say.
-will you tidy the wires above the mobo?
-why are you using 2 different holes for cpu power connection, usng 1 would look cleaner
-please tell me you are losing those plastic clips


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> wassamattt U ? doncha like berettes in a pretty girl's hair ???


No


----------



## seross69

I actually like the clips


----------



## cpachris

Soundproofing the doors.....

Back at it with some of the Acoustipack material I showed you earlier while playing with the pumps.



It's times like these when you really love how simple it is to remove one of the doors from the Caselabs cases. Just lift off....no screws or clips. This is the backside of the XXL window door on the motherboard side of the case....



Soundproofing process is pretty simple. Just cut pieces to size....and use the sticky tape on the back of the material to apply to the door....



I'm doing both doors.....



And here is the finished product. I opted to leave cutouts for any/all exposed nuts or bolts. You could choose to cover over them also...but I wanted to keep it easy to work on if needed.



Here is a closeup of the material. This stuff is heavy! I didn't weigh it...but it feels like 10+ pounds per sheet. I used about 1.5 sheets to do the doors. Good thing the Caselabs door hinges are so well made!



And here you can see what it looks like with the door installed. Of course, you can't see it at all with the door closed. I can't tell a big difference in sound levels when fans/pumps are at low speeds....but then again....it was just about silent already. I CAN tell a difference in sound levels when the pumps/fans are spinning at max speed. So...a worthwhile project I think.



Working on the valve between reservoirs right now. Have to drain partially to make this change.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

You know, this may be one of the longest running (without _truly_ being finished) builds... but DAMN if it isn't worth every last minute of it!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> You know, this may be one of the longest running (without _truly_ being finished) builds... but DAMN if it isn't worth every last minute of it!


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*


Your case mod needs to get done. It is by far one of the best mods I have ever seen. Just get 'er done.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*


LOL you were the other one I was thinking of actually that's been working for over a year now... at this rate Chris' build has been operational and just undergoing aesthetic changes for the most part much longer than the brief time yours was all together.









On the plus side for both of you... at least it's not like a Stren or Derrick build that just get's totally derailed and then slowly fades into obscurity.


----------



## cpachris

Finished the valve between the reservoirs last night, and I have it filled back and running. Still doing a little bit of bleeding, but not enough to impact any flow rate readings.

This picture below shows the valve I put between the reservoirs:



Previously...this was just a connection between the two reservoirs. The idea behind it was to allow more radiator circulation by allowing some of the flow to be diverted from starting the portion of the loop that travels through the blocks...and instead....make another pass through the radiator loop again. Some of the early ideas called for actively controlling the flow through this re-circulation loop with valves and/or additional pumps. It evolved into a completely passive re-circulation loop that was triggered only when the pressure drop for the motherboard subloop was more restrictive than the pressure drop for the radiator subloop. I could impact this with varying the speeds of the pumps in the motherboard subloop vs that of the pumps in the radiator subloop. But generally, the connection between the reservoirs served to send some of the coolant back through a second pass through the radiators...without going through the blocks again.

This re-circulation....could be both desirable and undesirable...depending on your cooling needs at the time. If your blocks are removing an adequate amount of heat from components at low flow rates...the re-circulation loop would be beneficial and serve to reduce your water/air delta's by sending the coolant back through the radiators a second time. However..it does so at the cost of reducing potential flow rate through the waterblocks. So...in situations where additional flow through the waterblocks would help cool components even more....this re-circulation loop was detrimental.

Electrocutor suggested a valve between the two reservoirs so that this could be adjusted manually as deemed necessary....and I was willing to give it a shot.

It definitely was a good idea. If I leave the valve open....everything performs exactly as it did before. No changes at all. With the valve open, and all 4 pumps on high....I get the following:

Motherboard (waterblocks) subloop - 0.9 gpm
Radiator subloop - 1.4 gpm

When I reduced the pumps to low settings....the flow rate drops to the following:

Motherboard (waterblocks) subloop - 0.2 gpm
Radiator subloop - 0.7 gpm

Now...for the results with the valve closed....which is the possibility I have with this change. As you can probably guess...the flow rates for the motherboard subloop and radiator subloop are now exactly the same when the valve is closed...because it is now a serial loop with no subloops. When the pumps are all on high...I get the following:

1.1 gpm

So the flow rate through the waterblocks is increased (from 0.9 to 1.1), ....at the cost of reduced flow through the radiator subloop (from 1.4 to 1.1). When I turn all the pumps as low as they will go....the flow rates drop to the following:

0.6 gpm

So....those are some pretty big changes just with adding this valve. My biggest surprise is how much extra flow I'm getting on low pump settings through the motherboard subloop. It shows that when I had no valve (or when its open now) that I was losing a lot of the additional pressure from the pumps in the radiator subloop...by allowing them to send coolant back through the radiator subloop. It doesn't add any pressure to the motherboard subloop. When the computer is going to be idling for a period of time though...it will probably be most beneficial to have the valve open. The additional flow through the motherboard loop doesn't really impact anything at idling speeds....while the increased flow through the radiator subloop should help decrease water/air delta's....which in turn impacts component temperature.

So.....now I have options, and I like it. Thank you Electrocutor for the idea.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

That's a pretty big impact indeed! Very interesting results... only a ~15% decrease in flow (at lowest pump) through the rads, but a 300% _increase_ through the blocks!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Are you planning on getting rid of those awful white/clear cable tidy clips things?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> wassamattt U ? doncha like berettes in a pretty girl's hair ???


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> No


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> -please tell me you are losing those plastic clips


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I actually like the clips


Lol....hehe. Personally....I don't mind the look of the clips at all. But...I have always intended to replace them with some cable sewing after I was done with getting all the cables where I wanted them. I'm just about to that point. I've just recently watched the videos from FrankNSteinPC again, and taken another look at Pongo's excellent tutorial pictures. Probably will make a run to Hobby Lobby later today, and hope to start the sewing process next week.

Any thoughts on whether white or black thread would look better?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

White 100%.


----------



## seross69

I second White..


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> White 100%.


+1 here, you barely have any black in your theme so sticks with white,


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

If you could find the right color of red thread, you could alternate sewing sections... do every other one with white and fill in with red in between.


----------



## casetitan

White.. always white don't even question it ! Just go white


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Look so good.. Still thinking about the Asrock Extreme 11.. Could you tell me how the LSI Ports worked for you as I remember reading about it being hard to get a raid 0 setup on this and never could figure out if they were trying to boot from that or just a data drive? I like having Raid 0 drives and keeping them backed up that way I have the speed and security.. Can you give me some information on this or have you tried it?


I've never tried installing the OS on the LSI array and booting from it...but I konw that is an option in the BIOS...so it is possible. I haven't read about anybody having problems setting up the RAID 0 on the LSI ports....just some people that were disappointed in the results. I've got 4 SSD's running in RAID 0 right now. I've done it both with the LSI chip handling the RAID calculations, and also by just setting up the drives as pass through and having Windows handle the RAID stuff. I get similar results both ways....with the exception of the 4k read/writes being a little faster when I use pass-through disks.

I'll do some screenshots of some benchmarks so you can see what kind of results I'm getting, and post them later today.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've never tried installing the OS on the LSI array and booting from it...but I konw that is an option in the BIOS...so it is possible. I haven't read about anybody having problems setting up the RAID 0 on the LSI ports....just some people that were disappointed in the results. I've got 4 SSD's running in RAID 0 right now. I've done it both with the LSI chip handling the RAID calculations, and also by just setting up the drives as pass through and having Windows handle the RAID stuff. I get similar results both ways....with the exception of the 4k read/writes being a little faster when I use pass-through disks.
> 
> I'll do some screenshots of some benchmarks so you can see what kind of results I'm getting, and post them later today.


Thank you for this information Chris!!








I do not want to boot from the LSI ports so if you have no problems using them in a raid 0 with decent performance then this has really got me thinking because the plan with my file/media server is to have a lot of small fast drives so that I can stream media files and other files fast to my other PC's using the 10 GB network.. With this board not only will I have 7 slots at 8x but I also have the LSI on the motherboard also so this is like buying another raid card since I want Raid 0. I will not see a real big improvement using a raid card because the calculations are a lot simpler. thank you again for this information...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> With this board not only will I have 7 slots at 8x but I also have the LSI on the motherboard also so this is like buying another raid card since I want Raid 0. I will not see a real big improvement using a raid card because the calculations are a lot simpler. thank you again for this information...


Actually, you would have Slot 1 at 16x, and Slots 2-7 at 8x if they were all full. I'm going to use the LSI ports to do RAID 0 for scratch drives and other stuff I don't need to backup. I'm using a separate RAID card to do a larger RAID 5 array.

I'm working on the benchmark screen shots right now.


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

What is the power consumption of your fans?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Lol....hehe. Personally....I don't mind the look of the clips at all. But...I have always intended to replace them with some cable sewing after I was done with getting all the cables where I wanted them. I'm just about to that point. I've just recently watched the videos from FrankNSteinPC again, and taken another look at Pongo's excellent tutorial pictures. Probably will make a run to Hobby Lobby later today, and hope to start the sewing process next week.
> 
> Any thoughts on whether white or black thread would look better?


Check out P3nnywise's thread about colors he has tried with thread.


----------



## cpachris

seross69...here is a screenshot of the benchmarks for AS SSD and ATTO. This is for 4 256GB Vertex 4 SSD's in RAID0, with the LSI controller treating these as pass-through disks, and Windows7 is handling the RAID stripe. Although pretty darn good already, my guess is I'll see an increase in these benchmarks when I overclock the CPU since this is basically a software RAID handled by the OS.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> What is the power consumption of your fans?


m1ndb3nd3r....here is a link to the datasheet for the Noiseblocker fans. Mine are the S2...and they use less than 1 watt when running at 12 volts.

http://www.blacknoise.com/downloads/datasheets/7/TData_MF120_122012_de_en.pdf


----------



## seross69

Oh that looks good.. Thank you for taking time to do this.









This is helping me make my decision....


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> seross69...here is a screenshot of the benchmarks for AS SSD and ATTO. This is for 4 256GB Vertex 4 SSD's in RAID0, with the LSI controller treating these as pass-through disks, and Windows7 is handling the RAID stripe. Although pretty darn good already, my guess is I'll see an increase in these benchmarks when I overclock the CPU since this is basically a software RAID handled by the OS.


Hi Chris, I think i mist a part i thought you are using a Areca card.

I plan for a 4 x ssd raid with OCZ Vector ssd's. Can you tell me the model of your LSI controller so i can check the info.

Thanks Henry


----------



## seross69

Henry It is a on board LSISAS2308. this is on the AsRock Extreme 11..


----------



## cpachris

Cold cathode stuff......

Those of you following the build know that I've had a cold cathode tube in the Helix reservoir for awhile now. Cold cathodes are crazy bright. A few weeks ago I was wondering whether or not I could hook the inverter power to my FC8 so that I could not only turn it off when I wanted...but also dim it. There was mixed success from folks trying the same thing when I was searching for information online. But I thought I might as well give it a try.

First....this is the cold cathode inverter I've been using. It's made by mod/smart.



I bought this one instead of the standard blue box...because I thought this was better looking, and also because it was modular. You can connect multiple inverters together from only one power source. While that sounded neat....the possibility of me having more cold cathodes in this build is non-existent....so it was a feature that I never used. Anyway....I'm here to tell you today that this pretty black cold cathode inverter from mod/smart......CAN NOT BE HOOKED UP TO SOMETHING PROVIDING LESS THAN 12 VOLTS. When I first tried...I heard a little phizzle...and then the smell of burnt electronics. Lucky these are cheap (around $10 bucks or so). So I ordered another one of these black mod/smart inverters....and tried again.

Same thing. As soon as anything less than 12 volts was applied...it phizzled and burnt.

Since I knew some people had successfully undervolted their inverters....I decided to try the standard blue box inverter...shown below:



These blue boxes are less than $5 bucks. The pictures below compare the size of the black from mod/smart, and the standard blue box. The blue box is narrower, but longer.





So I made a quick power harness that used the two little cold cathode pins on one side, and a 3pin fan connector on the other, and plugged the inverter into my FC8 fan controller. VIOLA! This inverter works fine when undervolted. Now...even though it works, I have to caveat it a little bit. I had two goals really. One....be able to turn the cold cathode off. Done. Two....be able to dim the cold cathode. Done....sort-of. It's real touchy on dimming it. If you start from zero volts and slowly start turning up the voltage....you get a dim light that starts at the bottom of the cold cathode tube and starts growing and spreading to the top of the tube. Once it gets to the top of the tube....it then instantly becomes full brightness. There is just a little bit of wiggle room....somewhere between 9 and 10 volts....where the cold cathode tube will stay fully lit all the way to the top....but not full brightness. So...it works....but it's touchy. It's very easy to have a dim partially lit tube.....but more difficult to have a dim fully lit tube.

But even though it's touchy....I now have options. On/off and bright/dim. Options are always good.

So the next step is to make this ugly blue box prettier. Lots of options....but I decided to have some fun with carbon wrap. I cut a piece of white carbon wrap in the approximate size of the box.



Got out my trusty little purple heatgun, and went about shaping it to the box. Not bad! Now...I don't think anyone is going to ask me to do a full wrap of their car or anything after seeing this....but it looks much nicer than it did before. I'm happy with it.



Next I used a safety pin to pierce the carbon wrap where the vent holes were on the top of the inverter.



Then I used an exacto knife to cutout the openings for the power cords...



Then I used my white MDPC-X sleeve and heatshrink on all the wires to finish it up.





To secure it in the box...I opted for some white velcro....



And here is what it looks like installed in the box. I put it on the PSU side of the case, on the middle wall...tucked up behind the SDD cages.





This shot is full-daylight....but you can still see the cold cathode tube glowing brightly. They are really really really crazy bright. The LED's in the OU reservoir don't show much in the day. I'll probably turn the cold cathode light on during the day....and then at night I'll either dim the cold cathode or turn it off....so that the OU reservoir lighting shows.



I think redoing my SATA power cable is next on my list....along with an attempt at some cable sewing.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Henry It is a on board LSISAS2308. this is on the AsRock Extreme 11..


O thats bad news for me. I have seen he uses in his build another card cost over here about 600 euro.


----------



## tpb211

Still waiting for the pedestal addition: combo beverage drawer/water chiller


----------



## cpachris

So I get up to the cash register at Hobby Lobby and put all of my thread, needles and thimbles down in front of the cute little cashier chick:



She says "I need to see your card". I hand her my Visa to pay. She says "No....I need to see your man card. Because it's been revoked."

Ouch. But...I have my cable sewing supplies.


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> So I get up to the cash register at Hobby Lobby and put all of my thread, needles and thimbles down in front of the cute little cashier chick:
> 
> 
> 
> She says "I need to see your card". I hand her my Visa to pay. She says "No....I need to see your man card. Because it's been revoked."
> 
> Ouch. But...I have my cable sewing supplies.


She's wrong for that.

Shows a side of humor though.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Hey, if your job is working the register at Hobby Lobby - you have to do _something_ to make the day go faster!


----------



## cpachris

Hey....the cable sewing isn't as tough as I thought it would be. Time consuming though. Here is my first sewing line done on the 24pin.





If I can learn to do it while watching TV...I might make it thorugh a season of Breaking Bad over next couple of days.









#SewingIsForMen #BiteMeHobbyLobbyCheckOutGirl


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hey....the cable sewing isn't as tough as I thought it would be. Time consuming though. Here is my first sewing line done on the 24pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can learn to do it while watching TV...I might make it thorugh a season of Breaking Bad over next couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #SewingIsForMen #BiteMeHobbyLobbyCheckOutGirl


Very neat, good job cpachris


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hey....the cable sewing isn't as tough as I thought it would be. Time consuming though. Here is my first sewing line done on the 24pin.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can learn to do it while watching TV...I might make it thorugh a season of Breaking Bad over next couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #SewingIsForMen #BiteMeHobbyLobbyCheckOutGirl


Looks good Chris


----------



## casetitan

White = Nice you go mangirl!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Very neat, good job cpachris


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Looks good Chris


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casetitan*
> 
> White = Nice you go mangirl!


Thanks! It's a manly stitch....I guess.









I finished 4 more lines last night, for a total of 5. I'm into Season 2 of Breaking Bad now. I can listen while I work, but I have to look at the stitch most of the time. So it's kind of slow going. I'm averaging about 45 minutes for one line of the sewing. I could probably get to around 30 minutes per line if I wasn't trying to watch TV....but it just takes some time. I've got almost 5 hours into the 24 pin already, and it's just over 1/2 done. Here are a couple pics of progress....





The sewn cables are STIFF. They are going to stay exactly how you sew them up. It's a very clean and precise look. Since I plan on doing the GPU cables and the motherboard cables also....this will take awhile. Will probably finish Breaking Bad and have to find another series.


----------



## casetitan

Looks really clean and nice! Will give this a try also when I get to that stadium.


----------



## Rbby258

I just started and finished watching breaking bad, really good show. Cant wait for the last half of season 5 to come out. Might be a bit late but you should try and use fishing line, the clear kind and it wouldn't be easily visible. What you done so far is very nice though.


----------



## TPE-331

Looking good Chris.


----------



## seross69

Looks really good!!!







I see now that I have something else I need to learn..


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casetitan*
> 
> Looks really clean and nice! Will give this a try also when I get to that stadium.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> I just started and finished watching breaking bad, really good show. Cant wait for the last half of season 5 to come out. Might be a bit late but you should try and use fishing line, the clear kind and it wouldn't be easily visible. What you done so far is very nice though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Looking good Chris.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Looks really good!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see now that I have something else I need to learn..


Thanks guys! I've finished the 24 pin and I'm happy with how it came out.









I've got eight rows of stitching. I used about 30mm between rows...as suggested by Pongo. It worked well. You could easily get away with a larger gap though if you want to do less stitching. It does take awhile. I have probably 7 or 8 hours or so into this one.

For the GPU cables, I need to decide whether or not I want to do an extension or not...before I start any sewing. The cables are not 1 to 1, so if I really want the cleanest look possible, I would need to scrap what I've done so far, and make some 1 to 1 extensions...with a separate cable on the PSU side that handles all of the messy cross-overs and double cables. That is what I did for the 24 pin. However, I might be able to keep it straight with sewing for the section of the cable that shows on the motherboard side of the case...and then let all the crossing happen on the PSU side of the case...and still use my existing cabling. Will have to play around with that.

For the record....I'm now on Season 2 Episode 5 of Breaking Bad. Plenty of material left to keep me entertained while I "sew".


----------



## nvidiaftw12

On that one line that is crooked. Would it be possible to slide it straight?


----------



## yraith

That reservoir reminds me of Resident Evil...


----------



## tpb211

Have you noticed "play" developing between the mating surface of your Aquero and the waterblock?


----------



## cpachris

Ok....I'm through with Season 2 of Breaking Bad....so it's time for an update on cable sewing.

I'm working on the GPU cables right now. I have two GTX 690's, and each has 2x 8 pin connections. My plan is to sew the two 8 pins together to form one cable. I have seven lines done on the cable for the first GPU, so it's more than 1/2 done.







I'll do as many lines as I can before all of the splices start on the PSU side of the case. Everything on the motherboard side will appear like it's a one to one extension. All the splices will only exist on the PSU side.

I'm excited about the GPU cables...because they looked a tad disheveled before. Now...they will be nice and neat.

I'll update again 1/2 way through season 3.







Has anyone else noticed that the little drug girlie's (Jessie's next door neighbor heroin chick) dad....is the same guy that played "Q" on Star Trek NG?


----------



## nckid4u

Looks good. And no I never thought about the junkie's dad was Q, but you are indeed correct.


----------



## seross69

Looks very nice Chris!!!


----------



## Barefooter

The cables are looking awesome Chris! I think when I get around to doing mine I'll space them out just a little more. Really looks great!

Are you still going to have the PA2 mounting bracket powder coated white?


----------



## mandrix

Very nice, Chris.
But I can tell you there is no way in hell I'm going to spend hours sewing cables with arthritic hands.








+ I can just hear it now......

"you missed a stitch!"
-or-
"you stitch like a girl!"

lol


----------



## Wibble360

How's life without your man-card? Are you allowed to buy beer?


----------



## cpachris

Catching up on comments....sorry for the delay!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casetitan*
> 
> Just took me a total of 3hours and 57minutes to get through all 331pages:thumb: ! Time well spend and subbed


Thanks casetitan...and yes....white. Always white.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redxmaverick*
> 
> I love that crimson/maroon color.


It's OU crimson. I've got a separate thread in my signature that documents my failures and successes in dyeing the MCPC-X sleeve to match the color I wanted. Finally got it right after a LOT of attempts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I would just like to say what a shame it is for me to discover this thread only now.
> About 3-4 weeks ago to be exact, but it's 1 year bit too late.
> Yes I am a new user, although I have been hiding in the oc.net bushes for about
> 8-9 months now, and only ever visited the website when I needed some
> new/clarifying information, but THIS build made me do the next step and register.
> I'm sure I'm not the first and last person to do so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cpachris,
> Hats off to you Sir.
> I spent an amazing week going through every single one of your logs.
> The sheer ridiculousness of the build and the meticulous attention to detail,
> that would put my OCD girlfriend to shame (don't tell her I said that haha)
> is what made me join and is definitely worthy of my first comment.
> 
> Good luck with it. I'm hoping you're not done with it yet and
> that it'll keep all of us entertained for quite some time.
> 
> I'll be watching.


Thanks JambonJovi! Glad you finally got legit with your OCN peeping.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I have been planning a CaseLabs build for awhile now. I was doing some research just trying to get as many ideas as I could. A google search landed me somewhere in the middle of this thread. I immediately knew that I had to start at the beginning of the thread, and at the time there was already over 300 pages with over 3,000 posts! It took me awhile, but I have read every post on every page here, and I have never read an entire thread of this size ever!
> 
> I have visited this site before, but not been a regular, so even though this is not my first post, I did join OCN because of this build log. I have been active on many other forums of differents interests over the years, but I must say that this thread is my "FAVORITE THREAD" of all time!
> 
> I found it to be entertaining, informative, and did not stray off topic too much. All the tutorials are wonderful, I really learned so much and I'm sure I'll be referring back to it often during my own build. I am even considering doing a build log myself.
> 
> So I want to thank Cpachris for all the efforts, great photos, and great ride it has been. Can't wait to see if finished!


I'm feeling the love! Appreciate the kind words Barefooter. Thanks!


----------



## Electrocutor

I'm glad to see the reservoir valve made a decent difference. I wouldn't be too worried about the man-card... you've spent what? 30k on a custom super computer? I know you're getting anxious for the red beast to take its place as your primary machine (it's been about a year now), and get started on the to-be-wife's and kid's machines. As always, a job well done: it's nice to see that the mentality of 'do it right the first time' is not dead.

For how well your photography skills are, you could probably get paid to showcase and review computer components as well if you wanted.

From some of the other posts and comments, I wonder if when you are completely finished you ought to split the first-post index into build links and tutorial/guide links so others can more readily find your detailed descriptions and photos of doing certain custom things.


----------



## cpachris

Sewing update....

I'm done with Season 3 of Breaking Bad...so it's time for a picture update. I'm done with the GPU cables. The difference from what I had is significant. Here is a older picture of what the cables looked like previously:



Spoiler: Before GPU Cable Sewing!







Here is what it looks like now. Notice from the front view, that you can only see the cables for one of the GTX 690's. They line up almost perfectly so that you only see one.....



From the side...you can see that the cable for the bottom 690 is lined up behind the top one. Soooooo much cleaner.





A few more random shots of the cable sewing....







If you haven't tried this before...it is very easy to do. Tedious and time consuming....but very easy. Yes...there are some cable stitching lines that are not perfectly straight...but you can play with sliding the wires around and straighten them some...after the fact. I learned from watching FrankNStein's videos....and Pongo's picture tutorial. The biggest difference between the two is that Pongo suggested using the curved quilting needles. I tried both ways....and found the curved needles MUCH easier to use. In FrankNStein's videos...you can see he is doing the sewing while the cables are attached to the computer. I also found this a much tougher approach, and did all my work with the cable detached in my lap. However, since I was joining 2x 8-pins together for each of the GPU's...I think it would have been easier to keep the lines straighter if the cables had been attached to the GPU's while sewing. After I make sure I have the cables trained and in the proper location on the motherboard side, as well as the PSU side....I may redo any individual line that I can't make fairly straight. If I do this, I'll sew with the cables attached to the GPU's.

Next up....Season 4 of Breaking Bad....and the two 8 pin cables for the motherboard that come in from the top of the case. The connectors for these are spread apart a little bit...so I don't know if I can stitch them together like I did the GPU cables. It may need to be separate 8 pin cables.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Looks fantastic to me!


----------



## wthenshaw

Looks so much better than those awful clip things. More discreet too, in a way.


----------



## seross69

Looks So good and so much better with the cables sewed like that.. and I actually like the clips


----------



## yraith

Looking good... My wife is on a Game of Thrones marathon for past 3 days. Yet, you are getting something done







Since you have spent so much time building it, have you seen anything you need to upgrade to a current gen?

(God that question is slaughtered, sorry.. Meds affecting my cognitive stuff)


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'm glad to see the reservoir valve made a decent difference. I wouldn't be too worried about the man-card... you've spent what? 30k on a custom super computer? I know you're getting anxious for the red beast to take its place as your primary machine (it's been about a year now), and get started on the to-be-wife's and kid's machines. As always, a job well done: it's nice to see that the mentality of 'do it right the first time' is not dead.
> 
> For how well your photography skills are, you could probably get paid to showcase and review computer components as well if you wanted.
> 
> From some of the other posts and comments, I wonder if when you are completely finished you ought to split the first-post index into build links and tutorial/guide links so others can more readily find your detailed descriptions and photos of doing certain custom things.


Great idea on the links for tutorials! I have already had to go through dozens and dozens of pages looking for things several times.


----------



## mandrix

I have to agree with Electrocuter. We all have our own ways of doing things, but this has definitely been one of the more informative builds with Chris taking the time to go into more detail than many of us do.
Some of us just have no photography skills or can't justify the expense of a nicer camera, but here we have had a build log from the start with great pics that has made it a pleasure to read.

I hope that at some point another build log will be forthcoming. It needn't be a big blowout rig, but maybe a new family member machine?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> That reservoir reminds me of Resident Evil...


I have no idea what you are talking about......



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nckid4u*
> 
> Looks good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Looks very nice Chris!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The cables are looking awesome Chris! I think when I get around to doing mine I'll space them out just a little more. Really looks great!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Very nice, Chris.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Looks fantastic to me!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Looks So good and so much better with the cables sewed like that.. and I actually like the clips


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Looks so much better than those awful clip things. More discreet too, in a way.


Thanks! I'm almost done with the two motherboard 8-pin cables, and then I'll see if any of the other power cables need a little sewing love.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Have you noticed "play" developing between the mating surface of your Aquero and the waterblock?


No....mine are still solid. Are you getting some movement now?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> How's life without your man-card? Are you allowed to buy beer?


I've been relegated to drinking Bartles & James wine coolers.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> On that one line that is crooked. Would it be possible to slide it straight?


They all have a little play you can work with. Because my cables have some tension when they are connected....I've found it's tough to duplicate that tension when you have them in your lap sewing. So when you put them back on the board and PSU...the tension can pull your nice straight line askew. Once done with all of them, I'll adjust the ones that I can. If anything looks too out of place, I'll cut that line off and redo the sew line while the cables are connected to the board and PSU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Are you still going to have the PA2 mounting bracket powder coated white?


They will either get powder coated, carbon wrapped, or copper plated. Haven't decided yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> Looking good... My wife is on a Game of Thrones marathon for past 3 days. Yet, you are getting something done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since you have spent so much time building it, have you seen anything you need to upgrade to a current gen?
> 
> (God that question is slaughtered, sorry.. Meds affecting my cognitive stuff)


Nothing at the moment. But when Nvidia releases 790's....I'll be first in line. Most likely will upgrade to Ivy-E when released next quarter. And when I upgrade to Ivy-E...I may give some faster memory a shot.

And although I wouldn't really consider it an upgrade...I was able to talk Bitspower into doing another little custom batch for me....so I'll have a surprise from them coming soon. The batch is being worked on as we speak.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> They all have a little play you can work with. Because my cables have some tension when they are connected....I've found it's tough to duplicate that tension when you have them in your lap sewing. So when you put them back on the board and PSU...the tension can pull your nice straight line askew. Once done with all of them, I'll adjust the ones that I can. If anything looks too out of place, I'll cut that line off and redo the sew line while the cables are connected to the board and PSU.


That's possibly even more work to do, but I'm sure it will look awesome. 

Hell, what am I saying, it already does.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here is a older picture of what the cables looked like previously:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before GPU Cable Sewing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like now. Notice from the front view, that you can only see the cables for one of the GTX 690's. They line up almost perfectly so that you only see one.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work! That's so much cleaner, especially on the GPU cables towards the bottom of the case.

What are you doing about the nest of cables going into the Aqueros?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> That's possibly even more work to do, but I'm sure it will look awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hell, what am I saying, it already does.


Are they Haley worthy yet?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Nice work! That's so much cleaner, especially on the GPU cables towards the bottom of the case.
> 
> What are you doing about the nest of cables going into the Aqueros?


Not sure yet. Some of them may lend themselves to some sewing...but most will not. I'll probably try and gather them with ties/clips to make it more of an organized bundle coming into the area....and them split from there. There are still a few that need shortening or lengthening to make the cable run the cleanest. That area is up next after I finish the motherboard 8-pins.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Most definitely.


----------



## Convex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Most definitely.


........there is not enough water cooling equipment in the world to cool down that babes hotness.......


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> chris, its been a long time since i last posted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i love how the build is going but have three things to say.
> 
> -will you tidy the wires above the mobo?
> -why are you using 2 different holes for cpu power connection, usng 1 would look cleaner
> -please tell me you are losing those plastic clips


- yes
- you are correct....thanks for the suggestion
- lost

I'm not done yet...but I've started some sewing on the 8-pin motherboard connectors...and I'm taking your suggestion on having them come through the same hole. Using 1 hole DOES look much cleaner. Thank you.



Spoiler: Previous 8-pin layout coming out of two holes







New layout.....



Another angle...



Spoiler: Previous 8-pin layout coming out of two holes







New layout.....



...and one last overall status. Still have some more cable management to go.....but it's coming along nicely.



I haven't finished these 8-pin cables completely. Taking some work on the backside....they have more "curve" than any other cable I've trained. They have to do an "S" curve with a 1/2 twist to plug into the PSU. Tricky....if you are sewing them.


----------



## Citra

Sorry if I missed it, but what are the status on the natemandoo blocks?

Loving it so far!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Sorry if I missed it, but what are the status on the natemandoo blocks?
> 
> Loving it so far!


nateman_doo?

more like nateman_don't.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> nateman_doo?
> 
> more like nateman_don't.


What even happened


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> What even happened


I guess everything that could go wrong or delay him...has happened. Machines breaking down....multiple times. Natural disasters (Sandy) calling you away for service. Vacations. Sickness.

I feel for him. I really do. But I feel worse for the people in this community that pony'd up some money for a block about 9 months ago. Especially since a lot of them did it after I talked about it in my log. Heck...he and I started talking about doing the block almost a full year ago. It can't take a year to make a custom part...or it just becomes unfeasible to go that route. He's probably smart to keep refusing to give me any sort of timeline on finishing (based on how long its taken so far)....but it's very frustrating for me. He ducks that question every time I ask. I would have given up hope entirely months ago...but he had some pictures of progress that are just enough to keep hope alive. So I'm still hopeful that I, and other on this forum, will get the blocks that we paid for last year.....but it's left a sour taste in my mouth already.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I guess everything that could go wrong or delay him...has happened. Machines breaking down....multiple times. Natural disasters (Sandy) calling you away for service. Vacations. Sickness.
> 
> I feel for him. I really do. But I feel worse for the people in this community that pony'd up some money for a block about 9 months ago. Especially since a lot of them did it after I talked about it in my log. Heck...he and I started talking about doing the block almost a full year ago. It can't take a year to make a custom part...or it just becomes unfeasible to go that route. He's probably smart to keep refusing to give me any sort of timeline on finishing (based on how long its taken so far)....but it's very frustrating for me. He ducks that question every time I ask. I would have given up hope entirely months ago...but he had some pictures of progress that are just enough to keep hope alive. So I'm still hopeful that I, and other on this forum, will get the blocks that we paid for last year.....but it's left a sour taste in my mouth already.


I was following the progress and then noticed it had just stopped.

What are the blocks intended for?


----------



## adi518

This build is so epic I think I'd just auction it on ebay for twice it's cost.


----------



## Audiophile20

Cpach
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I guess everything that could go wrong or delay him...has happened. Machines breaking down....multiple times. Natural disasters (Sandy) calling you away for service. Vacations. Sickness.
> 
> I feel for him. I really do. But I feel worse for the people in this community that pony'd up some money for a block about 9 months ago. Especially since a lot of them did it after I talked about it in my log. Heck...he and I started talking about doing the block almost a full year ago. It can't take a year to make a custom part...or it just becomes unfeasible to go that route. He's probably smart to keep refusing to give me any sort of timeline on finishing (based on how long its taken so far)....but it's very frustrating for me. He ducks that question every time I ask. I would have given up hope entirely months ago...but he had some pictures of progress that are just enough to keep hope alive. So I'm still hopeful that I, and other on this forum, will get the blocks that we paid for last year.....but it's left a sour taste in my mouth already.


I am one of those "ponied up funds" but I also have give up hope a long time ago. Running on blocks from Germany and they work fine. It is not your fault Chris. We all trust people to do business with, some work and others don't ... I would say lesson learned. Will stay away from him going forward.

It is just sad turn of events as he did not even have the basic courtesy to drop a line to me; I am under the impression he might have done the same to others. But looks like at least you are keeping in touch.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I guess everything that could go wrong or delay him...has happened. Machines breaking down....multiple times. Natural disasters (Sandy) calling you away for service. Vacations. Sickness.
> 
> I feel for him. I really do. But I feel worse for the people in this community that pony'd up some money for a block about 9 months ago. Especially since a lot of them did it after I talked about it in my log. Heck...he and I started talking about doing the block almost a full year ago. It can't take a year to make a custom part...or it just becomes unfeasible to go that route. He's probably smart to keep refusing to give me any sort of timeline on finishing (based on how long its taken so far)....but it's very frustrating for me. He ducks that question every time I ask. I would have given up hope entirely months ago...but he had some pictures of progress that are just enough to keep hope alive. So I'm still hopeful that I, and other on this forum, will get the blocks that we paid for last year.....but it's left a sour taste in my mouth already.


I emailed him asking about it earlier this month. At the time, he said he hopes to have the blocks ready to ship by the end of June. We'll see if that actually happens though.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Somewhat OT, but I just finished the season 3 finale of Breaking Bad and it was INSANE! I was yelling at my screen it was so crazy!

Anyway... Very nice job, I've been tracking the build for a while now but I don't really say much. That cable sewing is tight!


----------



## socketus

wait till you see season 4 !! wow !


----------



## Electrocutor

Just out of curiosity, what kind of comments do you get from house guests about your rig?


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what kind of comments do you get from house guests about your rig?


I'm sure the general viewer would just comment on how large the case is.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> I'm sure the general viewer would just comment on how large the case is.


I'd agree with this. Whenever I show people this build (usually for the tutorials) people generally only pay attention to its size and the colours


----------



## yraith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what kind of comments do you get from house guests about your rig?


"Damn, boy! You built that?! You probably have no life at all .... Ah, just kidding. But, damn dawg. That **** looks wack! Where can I get that at?" -- situation I see playing in my head from all that bugged me about mine. -with a twist LOL


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> "Damn, boy! You built that?! You probably have no life at all .... Ah, just kidding. But, damn dawg. That **** looks wack! Where can I get that at?" -- situation I see playing in my head from all that bugged me about mine. -with a twist LOL


My current temporary setup drew the following comment from my father when he stopped by: "Your office looks like the Borg".


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I always get, "you're ordering more crap?" whenever a package shows up at our door. My mom is not impressed with the monetary value of my build lol. She does think it is quite the feat though.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## socketus

I would think that being in Oklahoma, not far from Mecca, that most guests would comment on the obvious homage to the OU Sooner theme - helmet, res, the crimson, fan stickers .... and white. Apart from throwing some big oversized lettering on the case, I don't think the case can scream OU much more than it is alreddy !

Well, OK - maybe a hologram of past OU gridiron heroes flashing out of the case. Or a replica of the Gaylord Family Oklahoma Memorial Stadium full of red peoples perched on top !


----------



## Dynamo11

Fantastic build man, being from Britain the only exposure to Oklahoma University prior to this was WWF's very own Good Ol' Jim Ross!


----------



## Pistolp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> "Damn, boy! You built that?! You probably have no life at all .... Ah, just kidding. But, damn dawg. That **** looks wack! Where can I get that at?" -- situation I see playing in my head from all that bugged me about mine. -with a twist LOL


lol first thing they would say is HOW MUCH RAM BRO, followed by IS IT AN ALIENWARE, and finally, HOW MUCH DID IT COST


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pistolp*
> 
> lol first thing they would say is HOW MUCH RAM BRO, followed by IS IT AN ALIENWARE, and finally, HOW MUCH DID IT COST


Alienware don't have the ingenuity or creativity to build something like this


----------



## Virtue423

im always at a loss for words when i look at the pictures in this thread. pure perfection & beauty is the closest i can get. fantastic work.


----------



## shaukj0n3s

Im along too kind of late though


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaukj0n3s*
> 
> Im along too kind of late though


In time for the finale


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaukj0n3s*
> 
> Im along too kind of late though


The build never ends.


----------



## Hattifnatten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> The build never ends.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Edit: Whoops, this wasen't one of dericks threads.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hattifnatten*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Whoops, this wasen't one of dericks threads.


I can see how it could easily be confused for one... but if you look closely, cpachris has an actual, honest-to-God, functional _computer_ which is documented throughout this log! There are PC parts, and modding discussions, and at least 95% of the pictures and comments are on-topic.









It's only if you happen to catch that other 5% that _aren't_ that it could be confused with a Derick/Stren log.


----------



## wthenshaw

And those 5% comments usually come from them


----------



## cpachris

Quick update and then I'll catch up on comments!

Cable sewing is done....unless I decide to do some of the odds and ends power connectors. Past week or so, I've been working on cable management and overclocking. I've shortened/lengthened various cables....now that everything is just about in its final place. Still a few to go...but it's starting to look neater. I'll take an updated round of pictures of cable management as soon as I finish redoing the SATA power cable. I'm going to put all 16 SSD's on the same cable, instead of having two separate ones.

For overclocking....this is my first build where I'm attempting a serious overclock. I've done it in the past...but always something mild. So far, I've found everything on this board and it's BIOS pretty easy to use. My general approach is to use fixed voltage first and determine the lowest vcore a particular CPU frequency will require, and then try and create an offset voltage profile to mimic the results of the fixed voltage profile.

I'm using a baseclock of 100, and I have my memory overclocked to 2,133 Mhz. Everything at a 47 multiplier and below was super easy to hit and the temperatures are still phenomenal. At 4.7 GHz the average CPU core temps stay in the 50's even when running Prime 95 for 12+ hours.

It starts to get more interesting at a 48 multiplier. The jump from 4.7 GHz to 4.8GHz is a larger increase in voltage and temperatures than anything below this. I've found stability for my CPU at a vcore of 1.39 volts. I'm achieving this by using fixed voltage of 1.37 volts with the LLC set to 1 (highest Asrock setting). This gives me vcore of 1.39 volts at full load, and about 1.35 volts while idling. Temperatures are still pretty good. When running large FFT's in P95, the temperatures stay in the 50's. When running small FFT's in P95, the temperatures get up into the 60's. I've succesfully run Intel Burn Test on Very high with 30 loops....and I've run P95 blended for 12 hours. I know some will argue I need to do it for 24 hours....and I may.....but this is plenty to zero in on what kind of voltage I need. The VID at full load and 4.8GHz for my CPU is 1.396,....so I'm hoping I'll be able to get away with a very small positive offset when I'm ready to go this route.

For a 49 multiplier....it heats up more. I've found "stability" for my CPU at a vcore of 1.44 volts on full load. Right now, I'm achieving this with fixed voltage of 1.42 and LLC of 1 (highest). It gives me 1.44 volts at full load and about 1.4 volts while idling. The VID at full load is 1.4011 which is only a tad more than it was at 4.8 GHz. I'll play with offsets later. I've only run 6 hours of P95 at this setting....but I'll do more at some point. I can do 30 loops through IBT on very high. I think it will prove stable. Temps increase somewhat at 4.9GHz. They were in the upper 50's / mid 60's on the large FFT's in P95, depending on the size of the FFT. But the small FFT's could heat things up to lower 70's. Still acceptable....but getting hotter.

For a 50 multiplier.....I can boot, load windows, and run certain benchmarks. Everything GPU related (even though they tax the CPU also) seems fine. But so far I can't get very far on a P95 run at 5.0 GHz. I don't think it's temperature related...because even though some individual cores can reach 80, the average across all cores stays in the 70's....and it should be able to run at that. I may just be hitting the limits of my silicon. We will see.

But...since I can run GPU benchmarks, I took some time to play with 3D mark with the CPU at 5.0GHz and an overclock on the 690's also. I can only up the GPU clock on the 690's by 135 Mhz before I start encountering issues....but this is fairly normal limits from what I've read. I can push the memory on the 690's by 685 Mhz....so I'm getting a pretty good bump there. . Got a real nice score of 26,413 which places it at #15 on the Hall of Fame right now for the latest version of 3DMark 11 performance benchmark for 4x GPU systems.



It would rank a little lower if you included the 3x GPU systems...because 3x Titans can out perform two 690's. But mine is the highest scoring GTX 690 system on the 1.05 version of 3DMark Performance right now. Although I'm sure that will change as some of the super systems that haven't run the 1.05 version of the benchmark go back and do so. But I'm happy with the results....regardless.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I guess everything that could go wrong or delay him...has happened. Machines breaking down....multiple times. Natural disasters (Sandy) calling you away for service. Vacations. Sickness.
> 
> I feel for him. I really do. But I feel worse for the people in this community that pony'd up some money for a block about 9 months ago. Especially since a lot of them did it after I talked about it in my log. Heck...he and I started talking about doing the block almost a full year ago. It can't take a year to make a custom part...or it just becomes unfeasible to go that route. He's probably smart to keep refusing to give me any sort of timeline on finishing (based on how long its taken so far)....but it's very frustrating for me. He ducks that question every time I ask. I would have given up hope entirely months ago...but he had some pictures of progress that are just enough to keep hope alive. So I'm still hopeful that I, and other on this forum, will get the blocks that we paid for last year.....but it's left a sour taste in my mouth already.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile20*
> 
> Cpach
> I am one of those "ponied up funds" but I also have give up hope a long time ago. Running on blocks from Germany and they work fine. It is not your fault Chris. We all trust people to do business with, some work and others don't ... I would say lesson learned. Will stay away from him going forward.
> 
> It is just sad turn of events as he did not even have the basic courtesy to drop a line to me; I am under the impression he might have done the same to others. But looks like at least you are keeping in touch.


After an extremely long wait, I finally got my chipset blocks from natemandoo. I'll play around with mounting them in my system on the weekend when I have more time.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Why do you want llc to level one? I set it to level 5, so I get nice and low volts on idling. Like for me at 4.5, I get 1.3 volts running, and 1 volt idle.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Why do you want llc to level one? I set it to level 5, so I get nice and low volts on idling. Like for me at 4.5, I get 1.3 volts running, and 1 volt idle.


All of the testing above is using manual, or fixed, voltage so I can zero in on what the minimum required vcore is at full load. If I were to use LLC of level 5 during my testing....my vcore at load would be much lower than it is right now, and I'd have to increase the fixed voltage I'm applying to have the desired voltage at full load. So....it would increase my voltage at idle vs what I have right now. My LLC impacts my fully loaded vcore much more significantly than my idle vcore. Is your board different?

Now when I establish an overclock using an offset voltage (instead of fixed)....then I'll have the significant drop in voltage when it's idling. Right now, if I use an offset voltage....i can get less than 1.0 volt while idling when the CPU downclocks to 1200. But it has more to do with the fact that it's on offset voltage than it has to do with the LLC.

I'm assuming you are using an offset voltage to get a drop from 1.3 volts to 1.0 volts when idling? Although all boards seem to have their own power saving features...so who knows.


----------



## Wibble360

I don't know much about this stuff or even what offset voltage is but congrats on the #15 place man

What do you think you'd need to do to get higher apart from titans? Liquid nitrogen? Luck of the draw with which silicon you get?


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pistolp*
> 
> lol first thing they would say is HOW MUCH RAM BRO, followed by IS IT AN ALIENWARE, and finally, HOW MUCH DID IT COST


if this was a alienware computer they charge over $100,000USD for sure.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> All of the testing above is using manual, or fixed, voltage so I can zero in on what the minimum required vcore is at full load. If I were to use LLC of level 5 during my testing....my vcore at load would be much lower than it is right now, and I'd have to increase the fixed voltage I'm applying to have the desired voltage at full load. So....it would increase my voltage at idle vs what I have right now. My LLC impacts my fixed vcore much more significantly than my idle vcore. Is your board different?
> 
> Now when I establish an overclock using an offset voltage (instead of fixed)....then I'll have the significant drop in voltage when it's idling. Right now, if I use an offset voltage....i can get less than 1.0 volt while idling when the CPU downclocks to 1200. But it has more to do with the fact that it's on offset voltage than it has to do with the LLC.
> 
> I'm assuming you are using an offset voltage to get a drop from 1.3 volts to 1.0 volts when idling? Although all boards seem to have their own power saving features...so who knows.


Yeah. Offset is soo much better, highly recommend it. Getting it stable first, then switching over sounds good to me though.

I guess my board is a bit different, as with offset, llc doesn't touch top end voltage, just like it shouldn't. At full load that is (IBT). In games sometimes it goes up a little higher because of the llc.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> if this was a alienware computer they charge over $100,000USD for sure.


But how do you know that this system didn't cost cpachris $100,000


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> But how do you know that this system didn't cost cpachris $100,000


I don't think you can place a price on what Chris has done. I have an idea of cost. But don't want to guess.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> I don't think you can place a price on what Chris has done. I have an idea of cost. But don't want to guess.


In a build like this the cost is irrelevant. It's about the time and effort put into making this build possible and reaching the builders definition of perfection


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> For a 49 multiplier....it heats up more. I've found "stability" for my CPU at a vcore of 1.44 volts on full load. Right now, I'm achieving this with fixed voltage of 1.42 and LLC of 1 (highest). It gives me 1.44 volts at full load and about 1.4 volts while idling. The VID at full load is 1.4011 which is only a tad more than it was at 4.8 GHz. I'll play with offsets later. I've only run 6 hours of P95 at this setting....but I'll do more at some point. I can do 30 loops through IBT on very high. I think it will prove stable. Temps increase somewhat at 4.9GHz. They were in the upper 50's / mid 60's on the large FFT's in P95, depending on the size of the FFT. But the small FFT's could heat things up to lower 70's. Still acceptable....but getting hotter.
> 
> For a 50 multiplier.....I can boot, load windows, and run certain benchmarks. Everything GPU related (even though they tax the CPU also) seems fine. But so far I can't get very far on a P95 run at 5.0 GHz. I don't think it's temperature related...because even though some individual cores can reach 80, the average across all cores stays in the 70's....and it should be able to run at that. I may just be hitting the limits of my silicon. We will see.
> 
> But...since I can run GPU benchmarks, I took some time to play with 3D mark with the CPU at 5.0GHz and an overclock on the 690's also. I can only up the GPU clock on the 690's by 135 Mhz before I start encountering issues....but this is fairly normal limits from what I've read. I can push the memory on the 690's by 685 Mhz....so I'm getting a pretty good bump there. . Got a real nice score of 26,413 which places it at #15 on the Hall of Fame right now for the latest version of 3DMark 11 performance benchmark for 4x GPU systems.


Congrats on the 3Dmark score Chris.
What RPM are your fans running at? Are they all on the lowest setting, or did you max everything out when overclocking ?
Just asking cause I didn't see you mention it in the post. (Unless it got mentioned before).

Thanks


----------



## Audiophile20

Vvt1978,

Glad to hear you got a block. Now that the German company we got the blocks from is no longer in business, this might become a captive customer base 

Please do post back how the block performs...


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Congrats on the 3Dmark score Chris.
> What RPM are your fans running at? Are they all on the lowest setting, or did you max everything out when overclocking ?
> Just asking cause I didn't see you mention it in the post. (Unless it got mentioned before).
> 
> Thanks


His fans are undervolted to make the system as close to dead silent as mechanically/electrically possible, so he has over 50 fans to compensate the low individual performance of each fan.


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> In a build like this the cost is irrelevant. It's about the time and effort put into making this build possible and reaching the builders definition of perfection


That's why I been following for a year. Joined the forum. As well not guess on the price but Admire the quality.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> His fans are undervolted to make the system as close to dead silent as mechanically/electrically possible, so he has over 50 fans to compensate the low individual performance of each fan.


Wonder when he was running benchmarks, was the fans under voltage.


----------



## FabsSpeed

What a great built! I am still 4-6 weeks away to get my CaseLabs TH10 built running. I have the same board installed as you also with 64GB of RAM and 3x680 4GB cards. I hope you can give me some guidance on the overclocking

This is my built. http://www.overclock.net/t/1408451/project-n-v


----------



## cpachris

Got my Nateman_doo blocks today.







Will take some pictures tonight.

Update on overclocking profiles:

Getting a stable overclock using offset voltage, instead of fixed voltage, has been more difficult than I hoped. I really have to accept more voltage at full load than I need to....so that it doesn't BSOD when CPU drops to lower frequencies and less voltage is given. I've got a stable profile with an offset at +0.10 and LLC of 3, at a 47 multiplier. This gives me a rock solid overclock. I've run P95 blend for 24 hours with zero issues and temps stayed reasonable. Intel Burn Test has run on very high stress level for 30 loops. I've also run a lot of normal applications and browser activity to make sure the CPU is not voltage starved and lower frequencies...and everything works fine for this profile. But vcore on load is 1.43 volts, which is much higher than is necessary for this CPU at 4.7 Ghz (as proven by the fixed voltage testing I've done).

I'm going to play with pushing the offset lower for a 47 multiplier....or increasing the multiplier to 48. Testing the changes just takes so long though. I've had several attempts fail after even 6 hours of P95.....you really have to let it run longer than that to see if you have a stable overclock.


----------



## socketus

nateman_doo did it ? really ! gotta see that ;-)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> nateman_doo did it ? really ! gotta see that ;-)


Da doo did da deed. Done. (but still working on pictures)


----------



## Electrocutor

You can control the range of multipliers that Windows will set speed step to inside the Power Options control panel. Just find the processor setting and don't let it go all the way down to 5% or whatever they have the minimum set as. 99% is actually 100% and 100% is the bios overclock.


----------



## FabsSpeed

Wow I am very exited to see it. Can you do some temperature tests between the MIPS and Nateman cooling block?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Got my Nateman_doo blocks today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will take some pictures tonight.
> 
> Update on overclocking profiles:
> 
> Getting a stable overclock using offset voltage, instead of fixed voltage, has been more difficult than I hoped. I really have to accept more voltage at full load than I need to....so that it doesn't BSOD when CPU drops to lower frequencies and less voltage is given. I've got a stable profile with an offset at +0.10 and LLC of 3, at a 47 multiplier. This gives me a rock solid overclock. I've run P95 blend for 24 hours with zero issues and temps stayed reasonable. Intel Burn Test has run on very high stress level for 30 loops. I've also run a lot of normal applications and browser activity to make sure the CPU is not voltage starved and lower frequencies...and everything works fine for this profile. But vcore on load is 1.43 volts, which is much higher than is necessary for this CPU at 4.7 Ghz (as proven by the fixed voltage testing I've done).
> 
> I'm going to play with pushing the offset lower for a 47 multiplier....or increasing the multiplier to 48. Testing the changes just takes so long though. I've had several attempts fail after even 6 hours of P95.....you really have to let it run longer than that to see if you have a stable overclock.


----------



## cpachris

Without further a_doo (spelling intentional







) here are pictures of the nateman_doo waterblocks....





The chipset block is very large (covers Southbridge, LSI and 2x PLX chips) but very thin like most chipset blocks. It can't interfere with graphics cards so depth must remain very shallow. While the overall shape is very similar to my Mips block....the inlet/outlet placement is very different. Both versions create their own challenges. The Mips design puts the inlet/outlet between the 1st and 3rd PCIe slots...effectively eliminating using anything in the 2nd slot. Not a big deal at all, since almost all today's cards are dual slot (couldn't use anything in slot 2 anyway) and if you are watercooling your GPU block will not interfere with the inlet/outlet placement. But...if you want to aircool 4 cards AND watercool your AE11 board....you are out of luck with the Mips block. But...has anyone ever run 4 cards on air while watercooling their board?

By contrast, the Nateman_doo design puts the inlet/outlet above PCIe slot 1....which cleans up the loop layout for that section....while creating some challenges of it's own in the upper section of the board. I won't know for sure until I get it installed....but it looks like it might interfere with my RAM watercooling unless the port on the right has an immediate 90 degree turn away from the board. If it comes straight out....it looks like it would hit my waterblock for the RAM.





These will help you get a feel for the size of the block. That's a Bitspower Quck Disconnect on the left and a 90 degree fitting on the right. You know how big those are....so it will help you gauge.



And here is the underbelly of the beast. Not a simple waterblock......



The voltage regulator module waterblock is simple and beautiful. It is also quite large compared to the Mips block. Looks to be about 50% deeper, and also much wider. The Mips block doesn't cover everything on the AE11 board (puzzing), but this one looks like it will. Also, since it is SOOOO much deeper, I'm going to guess that it is less restrictive also. I'll do some flow measurements between the two.





This picture will give you some perspective on how deep this block really is. Look at the 90 degree connector right by it......the waterblock is almost as tall as the 90 degree connector! Much taller (or deeper) than the Mips block. I'll do some comparison shots when I take my Mips block off.



Here is the underside of the VRM block.



A few beauty shots for fun.....











Now you have to remember that these blocks are being done in someone's garage. You can't expect them not to have some imperfections. You may have noticed in the above shots...but you'll definitely notice in the one below....that you can see some of the milling marks on the surface of the chipset block. Not a big deal....but you can see them. I doubt you'll be able to see them when you have it installed on the board underneath the graphics cards.



Here if you look closely, you can see some of the screw holes that have markings on the side of the block. Not a huge deal, and won't be seen once installed.



If you look on the right side of this picture at the side of the copper block...you'll see some imperfections in the copper finish. Again...not a big deal.



Overall I'm very impressed with Nateman_doo's work and these look like quality blocks. Very attractive. Packaging was also good, with lots of thick foam surrounding the blocks. No thermal pad included....so I'll have to order some before installation. I found it a little strange that the screws used on the tops didn't match between the VRM block and the chipset block...but I guess that's not a big deal. I like that he used black screws. The Mips blocks came with silver screws. The black that Nateman_doo used looks better. The finish on the copper for Nateman's blocks is a little less satiny than the Mips blocks. I like the look of the copper on the Mips blocks better....but the difference is not huge.

Here are some final beauty shots to show off Nateman_doo's hard work....







Next...I'll take them apart and get a few pictures before I move on to putting them on the board and testing them versus the Mips blocks. I'm going to guess that Nateman's VRM block performs better than Mips....but that the Mips chipset block performs better. But we won't know for sure until I get them installed and run some tests.


----------



## wthenshaw

About time


----------



## socketus

WoW ! almost looks like chocolate and copper chocolate. Great that the Nateman finished your blocks


----------



## Wibble360

Looks awesome. Crack em open then slap em on!! Looking forward to the stats...


----------



## TPE-331

Beautiful blocks Chris, can't wait to see them mounted.


----------



## Citra

They look great!


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Without further a_doo (spelling intentional
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) here are pictures of the nateman_doo waterblocks....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chipset block is very large (covers Southbridge, LSI and 2x PLX chips) but very thin like most chipset blocks. It can't interfere with graphics cards so depth must remain very shallow. While the overall shape is very similar to my Mips block....the inlet/outlet placement is very different. Both versions create their own challenges. The Mips design puts the inlet/outlet between the 1st and 3rd PCIe slots...effectively eliminating using anything in the 2nd slot. Not a big deal at all, since almost all today's cards are dual slot (couldn't use anything in slot 2 anyway) and if you are watercooling your GPU block will not interfere with the inlet/outlet placement. But...if you want to aircool 4 cards AND watercool your AE11 board....you are out of luck with the Mips block. But...has anyone ever run 4 cards on air while watercooling their board?
> 
> By contrast, the Nateman_doo design puts the inlet/outlet above PCIe slot 1....which cleans up the loop layout for that section....while creating some challenges of it's own in the upper section of the board. I won't know for sure until I get it installed....but it looks like it might interfere with my RAM watercooling unless the port on the right has an immediate 90 degree turn away from the board. If it comes straight out....it looks like it would hit my waterblock for the RAM.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will help you get a feel for the size of the block. That's a Bitspower Quck Disconnect on the left and a 90 degree fitting on the right. You know how big those are....so it will help you gauge.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the underbelly of the beast. Not a simple waterblock......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The voltage regulator module waterblock is simple and beautiful. It is also quite large compared to the Mips block. Looks to be about 50% deeper, and also much wider. The Mips block doesn't cover everything on the AE11 board (puzzing), but this one looks like it will. Also, since it is SOOOO much deeper, I'm going to guess that it is less restrictive also. I'll do some flow measurements between the two.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture will give you some perspective on how deep this block really is. Look at the 90 degree connector right by it......the waterblock is almost as tall as the 90 degree connector! Much taller (or deeper) than the Mips block. I'll do some comparison shots when I take my Mips block off.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the underside of the VRM block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few beauty shots for fun.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you have to remember that these blocks are being done in someone's garage. You can't expect them not to have some imperfections. You may have noticed in the above shots...but you'll definitely notice in the one below....that you can see some of the milling marks on the surface of the chipset block. Not a big deal....but you can see them. I doubt you'll be able to see them when you have it installed on the board underneath the graphics cards.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here if you look closely, you can see some of the screw holes that have markings on the side of the block. Not a huge deal, and won't be seen once installed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look on the right side of this picture at the side of the copper block...you'll see some imperfections in the copper finish. Again...not a big deal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I'm very impressed with Nateman_doo's work and these look like quality blocks. Very attractive. Packaging was also good, with lots of thick foam surrounding the blocks. No thermal pad included....so I'll have to order some before installation. I found it a little strange that the screws used on the tops didn't match between the VRM block and the chipset block...but I guess that's not a big deal. I like that he used black screws. The Mips blocks came with silver screws. The black that Nateman_doo used looks better. The finish on the copper for Nateman's blocks is a little less satiny than the Mips blocks. I like the look of the copper on the Mips blocks better....but the difference is not huge.
> 
> Here are some final beauty shots to show off Nateman_doo's hard work....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next...I'll take them apart and get a few pictures before I move on to putting them on the board and testing them versus the Mips blocks. I'm going to guess that Nateman's VRM block performs better than Mips....but that the Mips chipset block performs better. But we won't know for sure until I get them installed and run some tests.


Blocks looking great Chris.


----------



## casetitan

Blocks look really great accept for the colour that will need to change in white


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Blocks looking great Chris.


TATH did you really have to quote that to compliment the blocks? So much scrolling...


----------



## TATH

I thought i did it right "i wil change it" was a quick respons sorry


----------



## mandrix

Wow, Nate's blocks are here.
As far as imperfections on Nates blocks....I have much worse on my EK gpu blocks. So I would have to say his look pretty good.








Looking forward to your installation/testing.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> From some of the other posts and comments, I wonder if when you are completely finished you ought to split the first-post index into build links and tutorial/guide links so others can more readily find your detailed descriptions and photos of doing certain custom things.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Great idea on the links for tutorials! I have already had to go through dozens and dozens of pages looking for things several times.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I have to agree with Electrocuter. We all have our own ways of doing things, but this has definitely been one of the more informative builds with Chris taking the time to go into more detail than many of us do.


Awesome idea. The table of contents on the first page is in dire need of an update anyway....but I like the idea of a separate "guide" set of links. I'll make sure it happens before I lock down this thread for good. I've also thought about going back and adding a link at the bottom of each post that has significant pictures that takes people to the next post with pictures. So...instead of popping back and forth between the index, someone could skip right to the next set of pictures. Might make it easier for someone to actually catch-up at this point. Far too long to actually go back and read.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Awesome idea. The table of contents on the first page is in dire need of an update anyway....but I like the idea of a separate "guide" set of links. I'll make sure it happens before I lock down this thread for good. I've also thought about going back and adding a link at the bottom of each post that has significant pictures that takes people to the next post with pictures. So...instead of popping back and forth between the index, someone could skip right to the next set of pictures. Might make it easier for someone to actually catch-up at this point. Far too long to actually go back and read.


Picture idea is good, I started following this build when you had just started painting the fans, (around the time I joined? Can't remember if it was before or after this) and it took me several weeks to read through from the beginning to that point.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what kind of comments do you get from house guests about your rig?


An excellent question....and I've loved the comments/replies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> I'm sure the general viewer would just comment on how large the case is.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> I'd agree with this. Whenever I show people this build (usually for the tutorials) people generally only pay attention to its size and the colours


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> "Damn, boy! You built that?!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> My current temporary setup drew the following comment from my father when he stopped by: "Your office looks like the Borg".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I always get, "you're ordering more crap?" whenever a package shows up at our door.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I would think that being in Oklahoma, not far from Mecca, that most guests would comment on the obvious homage to the OU Sooner theme - helmet, res, the crimson, fan stickers .... and white.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pistolp*
> 
> lol first thing they would say is HOW MUCH RAM BRO, followed by IS IT AN ALIENWARE, and finally, HOW MUCH DID IT COST


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> if this was a alienware computer they charge over $100,000USD for sure.


Awesome! These all made me laugh out loud and think about the actual comments I've heard over the past *gasp* year. The case has spent time in the upstairs faux studio, the kitchen (when filling or draining) and in the living room. It takes up a fair amount of space in the living room. [Don't worry Jenn....I'll have it in the office soon!]









A surprising number of people (at least to me) haven't recognized it as a computer. I guess if you are the kind of person that buys a $600 Dell desktop....this thing might just not register as a computer. So I get a lot of "What is that thing?" And for almost all of those people, the next question is usually along the lines of "Why would you want one that big?"....or "What does it do?".









For my friends that have a potty mouth....the first time they saw it I usually got to hear their favorite explicative. Multiple times.

University of Oklahoma fans dominate this area....so I get a lot of ooo's and ahhhh's about the color and some of the OU paraphernalia that adorns it. If they happen to be an Oklahoma State University fan (OSU) then they immediately comment on how ugly it is.









I think I have the most fun when I have over visitors that are into computers....but have never done a water cooled one. A tech-y'ish friend was over a couple of weeks ago and saw it for the first time. He kept trying to make sure he understood where each of the parts was. Never had seen pumps or radiators in a build before. Also...after careful inspection he announced that he couldn't find any harddrives, and wondered where I was going to put them. I smiled and turned the case around and opened up the PSU side door. Blew his mind all over again. He hadn't picked up on the fact that there was space on the other side yet. He also hadn't seen that many SSD's before...and had never seen two PSU's. He was quite blown away.

For the non-tech-y'ish friends that come over....they seem to be the most awed by the lighting.







So I let them turn the knobs and adjust lighting on both sides of the cases and the pedestal and the reservoir. For them....that is the "coolest" thing about the computer. Lights!

But I think the coolest thing that has happened over the last year....is I've met two people who....after we got to know each other a little bit....we mutually discovered together that they have been watching the log! They kind of knew me already through the log! That was really cool.


----------



## wthenshaw

It's amazing because my friend came over and saw my HAF-XB and was like "Wow this is huge!" when all it really is, is a squat box. It's larger than your average mid tower and *looks* large but it's not all that large. Then you see all the CL cases and have difficulty trying to gauge the size.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Heh. I consider my dragon rider pretty big. You could throw like 4 in Chris's case.


----------



## mandrix

What's funny is how non-tech people equate size of a computer with function. People usually ask me if mine is a server. What blows their minds more is when I show them my HTPC in the audio cabinet, in the nMediapc case and tell them it's a computer.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile20*
> 
> Vvt1978,
> 
> Glad to hear you got a block. Now that the German company we got the blocks from is no longer in business, this might become a captive customer base
> 
> Please do post back how the block performs...


I'm having trouble finding a fitting for the O-ring over the CMOS battery which doesn't conflict with my CPU waterblock. I've ordered some parts from FrozenCPU. I'll post some pictures of it mounted if cpachris doesn't beat me to it. Though, with all the spare fittings he probably has lying around, he probably will beat me to it. 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Got my Nateman_doo blocks today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will take some pictures tonight.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Without further a_doo (spelling intentional
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) here are pictures of the nateman_doo waterblocks....
> 
> The chipset block is very large (covers Southbridge, LSI and 2x PLX chips) but very thin like most chipset blocks. It can't interfere with graphics cards so depth must remain very shallow. While the overall shape is very similar to my Mips block....the inlet/outlet placement is very different. Both versions create their own challenges. The Mips design puts the inlet/outlet between the 1st and 3rd PCIe slots...effectively eliminating using anything in the 2nd slot. Not a big deal at all, since almost all today's cards are dual slot (couldn't use anything in slot 2 anyway) and if you are watercooling your GPU block will not interfere with the inlet/outlet placement. But...if you want to aircool 4 cards AND watercool your AE11 board....you are out of luck with the Mips block. But...has anyone ever run 4 cards on air while watercooling their board?
> 
> By contrast, the Nateman_doo design puts the inlet/outlet above PCIe slot 1....which cleans up the loop layout for that section....while creating some challenges of it's own in the upper section of the board. I won't know for sure until I get it installed....but it looks like it might interfere with my RAM watercooling unless the port on the right has an immediate 90 degree turn away from the board. If it comes straight out....it looks like it would hit my waterblock for the RAM.
> 
> These will help you get a feel for the size of the block. That's a Bitspower Quck Disconnect on the left and a 90 degree fitting on the right. You know how big those are....so it will help you gauge.
> 
> And here is the underbelly of the beast. Not a simple waterblock......
> 
> The voltage regulator module waterblock is simple and beautiful. It is also quite large compared to the Mips block. Looks to be about 50% deeper, and also much wider. The Mips block doesn't cover everything on the AE11 board (puzzing), but this one looks like it will. Also, since it is SOOOO much deeper, I'm going to guess that it is less restrictive also. I'll do some flow measurements between the two.
> 
> This picture will give you some perspective on how deep this block really is. Look at the 90 degree connector right by it......the waterblock is almost as tall as the 90 degree connector! Much taller (or deeper) than the Mips block. I'll do some comparison shots when I take my Mips block off.
> 
> Here is the underside of the VRM block.
> 
> A few beauty shots for fun.....
> 
> Now you have to remember that these blocks are being done in someone's garage. You can't expect them not to have some imperfections. You may have noticed in the above shots...but you'll definitely notice in the one below....that you can see some of the milling marks on the surface of the chipset block. Not a big deal....but you can see them. I doubt you'll be able to see them when you have it installed on the board underneath the graphics cards.
> 
> Here if you look closely, you can see some of the screw holes that have markings on the side of the block. Not a huge deal, and won't be seen once installed.
> 
> If you look on the right side of this picture at the side of the copper block...you'll see some imperfections in the copper finish. Again...not a big deal.
> 
> Overall I'm very impressed with Nateman_doo's work and these look like quality blocks. Very attractive. Packaging was also good, with lots of thick foam surrounding the blocks. No thermal pad included....so I'll have to order some before installation. I found it a little strange that the screws used on the tops didn't match between the VRM block and the chipset block...but I guess that's not a big deal. I like that he used black screws. The Mips blocks came with silver screws. The black that Nateman_doo used looks better. The finish on the copper for Nateman's blocks is a little less satiny than the Mips blocks. I like the look of the copper on the Mips blocks better....but the difference is not huge.
> 
> Here are some final beauty shots to show off Nateman_doo's hard work....
> 
> Next...I'll take them apart and get a few pictures before I move on to putting them on the board and testing them versus the Mips blocks. I'm going to guess that Nateman's VRM block performs better than Mips....but that the Mips chipset block performs better. But we won't know for sure until I get them installed and run some tests.


My blocks look almost exactly the same as yours. A few imperfections here and there. But it was a phenomenal job. Can't wait to see how you mount it in. I don't have RAM waterblocks in my setup. So I'm not expecting any conflicts with the O-ring to the right of the memory. I'm thinking of using a triple rotary adapters to see if they would work to over come the problem I'm having with the fittings conflicting with where the CPU block screws in. Maybe that will help with the problem you think will occur with the RAM waterblocks.

MOD EDIT: Please do not quote so many images!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote ALL the pictures!


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Quote _ALL_ the pictures!


Yup :/


----------



## nateman_doo

The imperfections that are the screws, aren't really imperfections. As the machining process goes, I do the top section first, drill and tap the holes. Then when I machine the backside, it extrudes the material. Some happen to be where screws are, but the meat of the copper above is where the screw stays. Its on the underside, so I never gave much thought to it as being an imperfection. I prefer to use through holes, and avoid blind tapping which is holes you cant see through. I try to use gun taps to push the material through the hole, rather then draw it out, but this block has its fair share of blind holes. This block pushed the boundary of my little home made machine and showed all its shortcomings.

On the bright side, the demand for this block is crazy and I have taken steps to quadruple output by building a second machine. I just want to make sure the block works well before I start going full blown on the block. It takes me such a long time to make each one, and one little mistake ruins the piece. I don't even want to mention how much copper I have ruined during this first batch.

The inside might not be to pretty, since its un-coated copper. but the inside still looks like:
http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...K X79/photobucket-5902-1350254361701.jpg.html
This is what it looked like fresh off the machine, but copper tends to oxidize quickly.


----------



## cpachris

nateman_doo.....on the VRM block...I've taken it apart, and one of the screws is a different length than the others, even though it looks to have the same mass of copper underneath. Intentional?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Quote _ALL_ the pictures!


Well it is a nice block...


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Well it is a nice block...


True, true.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> nateman_doo.....on the VRM block...I've taken it apart, and one of the screws is a different length than the others, even though it looks to have the same mass of copper underneath. Intentional?


Doesn't matter. they are either 1/4", or 5/16" 4-40 screws. The pile of screws I had fell and they got jumbled up. There is only a 1/16" difference in length. hard to see the difference as the nights get long.


----------



## arcade9

Hi Chris, excellent job on this build, one of the best I've ever seen. May I ask which red color of mdpc sleeve are you using? is it red or color x? thanks in advance


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arcade9*
> 
> Hi Chris, excellent job on this build, one of the best I've ever seen. May I ask which red color of mdpc sleeve are you using? is it red or color x? thanks in advance


He dyed the sleeving crimson himself


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arcade9*
> 
> Hi Chris, excellent job on this build, one of the best I've ever seen. May I ask which red color of mdpc sleeve are you using? is it red or color x? thanks in advance


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> He dyed the sleeving crimson himself


Thanks arcade9! wthenshaw is remembering it correctly. I dyed it myself. Started with some white MDPC-X and used some special dyes to mix up a color that matched my beloved OU crimson. You can see some pictures and discussion in this link.

Here is a picture of my custom dyed crimson (on the right)....next to the standard MCPC-X red (on the left):




As you can see....it wasn't even close. I don't have a picture with my crimson next to the MDPC-X Color X. But that one is closer to mine. But....Color X has more yellow in it than mine does. I needed less yellow and more purple mixed in with the red....to make it really match. You can also see an entire thread dedicated to all of my dye failures in my signature. It took a lot of tries to get it right.


----------



## cpachris

Nateman_doo blocks cracked open.....

The VRM block doesn't have anything fancy or earth shattering inside. But it is so much larger than the Mips block, with so much more room for flow right under the in/out ports....that I really think this one may positively impact flow rate.



Little dirty underneath the cover....but the finish was still smooth and nice. And notice how perfect the O-ring groove is. Fits real nice.



Here you can see the o-ring and groove from a different angle. It's just about perfect.



Now...the chipset block is pretty darn complicated inside. In the picture below, the block is rotated just about like it will be mounted on the motherboard. The two circular shapes toward the top of the block are where the inlet/outlet are.



And this picture shows the bottom side of the block top. I never opened up my Mips block to see how the inside was milled....but this one sure looks restrictive. There just isn't much space at all where the port is that is directly underneath the CPU. The port that is underneath the USB connectors on the right side of the block...has a little more depth to it where the port is. Definitely will do some flow comparisons between the blocks to see if one of them has an advantage.





The groove and o-ring are again, impressively done. I kind of wonder whether or not the center divider will be able to keep flow directed down and around the block. With nothing to seal the divider other than the pressure of the top on the edges of the copper....it seems like this could allow some seepage over this middle line. I also worry that the lower PLX chip is not going to get a lot of flow....just because of the narrow opening into this little pocket. It is pictured in the lower right hand corner of the picture below.



Before I start testing the doo blocks....I'm going to get baseline temperature and flow measurements using the Mips blocks. But before I start that, I'm going to remove the RAM waterblocks. For two reasons. First...I'm interested in finding out how restrictive they are in my current loop setup. So I'll do a before and after flow measurement for the ram waterblocks. I've already seen that they don't really do anything at all for temps. The ram stays cool in the low 30's, even without watercooling. Virtually no difference with the waterblocks. But...I like the way the ram blocks look....so they will stay unless they are just killing my flow. Only way to know is to test with and without them.

Second reason....I have my doubts that the doo_blocks are going to play nicely with the ram waterblocks installed. Doesn't look like there is enough clearance for the way my current loop is laid out. And so that I can have an apple to apple comparison of just the Mips vs doo chipset block....I think I'll need to run the tests without the ram waterblocks.

Once I've run my baseline Mips numbers...I'll take those blocks off and take some more pictures of both blocks beside each other...so you can really tell the difference between the two. Plus, I kind of want to see the inside of the Mips block since I didn't open it before installation.


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

I love how you have sleeving under the components you are taking pictures of.


----------



## tuffarts

what about a weak silicon compound on that wall down the middle to seal it off if you are worried about flow going through it.
then it would peel off if you take blocks apart again and put new silicon on etc.
would have to be small amount and neatly applied as you wouldn't want stray bits of silicon in the loop.
silicon shouldn't react with anything like plasticisers I think?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> I love how you have sleeving under the components you are taking pictures of.


Thanks! Been experimenting with different ways to keep it interesting. I think I might try some carbon fiber wrap in a background soon to see what it looks like.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuffarts*
> 
> what about a weak silicon compound on that wall down the middle to seal it off if you are worried about flow going through it.
> then it would peel off if you take blocks apart again and put new silicon on etc.
> would have to be small amount and neatly applied as you wouldn't want stray bits of silicon in the loop.
> silicon shouldn't react with anything like plasticisers I think?


Interesting idea. Would love to hear from nateman_doo and others. Is silicon a good idea? Without silicon, or a rubber gasket, ....what would keep the flow from coming over the copper ridge separator to the other side? Maybe it won't be enough to make a difference....but it sure seems like some coolant would come straight over...instead of going around the block like its supposed to.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I would think that any seepage that might occur will be minimal at best since the water will always find the easiest path from point A to point B and there shouldn't be a significant difference in pressure on either side (so there should be just as much water trying to "come back" the opposite direction and create a virtual seal anyway). The concern about the lower PLX chip seems to be a larger concern in some ways than any cross-channel seepage would be (at least performance wise) - however considering the massive amount of copper involved in that block... I'm thinking there is unlikely to be any problems in wicking away those watts.









Although it will definitely be interesting to see the comparison to the MIPS block, if the block on my MVE is any indication... the 'Doo Block' would have to be pretty damn restrictive indeed (much more than it appears from the pictures) to not best the MIPS block in flow at the very least.


----------



## nateman_doo

Digicidal has the right idea. There will always be seepage, but it will be minimal. If you were water, would you rather easily glide through the larger opening, or cram yourself through a sliver? The silicon (any type of gasket material) wouldn't be a bad idea and it would be harmless. I have sealed blocks with that stuff in the past. The gasket material is made for temps near boiling, to below freezing, and you get behind the wheel of you car every day and transport your kids. So to say the least, it works fine for computer water cooling applications.

As far as flow, if you remember when I was first designing it, I had it with the inlets right over the chips similar to what mips went with. It was a forum member her who suggested a beveled top, so we ran with it. The block could be much smaller and block PCI-E slots and be less complicated and less restrictive, but in order to clear up every slot compromises had to be made, like the minor restrictive flow by moving the outlets over the battery. I think I calculated it back then that the opening was at is most narrow point, to be equal to the inner diameter of a 3/8" hose. In which case the water will just accelerate through that gap, and go back to normal. I try to design blocks to have no less path the the inner cross sectional area of a 1/2" hose since thats what we all tend to use. When I leak tested it with a single MCP655 type pump the water was still turbulent in the reservoir. I have no method of formally testing flow.

I have always imagined there were 2 schools of thought for flow. Slower flow allows for more time for the heat to enter the water, or faster flow allows less time for the heat to build up in the block. I think the jury is still out on that. The one thing I have learned that doesn't matter is component placement. The water eventually equalizes in temp. While it does make a difference when you first fire up your system for the CPU to get the coolest, I have found the water just all eventually reaches a certain temp and tends to stay there.


----------



## Electrocutor

Don't forget that Nate's blocks have a 15 degree G1/4 (in order to be able to provide enough flow at the fitting), so if you want it to go straight you'll need to use a reversed 45 and forward 30 to get to a straight vertical; otherwise you could use a snake. Be sure that the fittings attached to the block has short threads: you don't want to block any flow.

Remember that a chipset does not use all that much power (less than 10 watts at full load), so simply having water going through the block would be sufficient; having it actually go directly above the chips and have cooling rods will just help make it even more efficient. Any water that leaks over the center piece will not affect cooling at all. Adding the RAID chip and PLX chips means that at most they'll be putting in 30 watts all put together. The one PLX chip in the corner will get warmer than the rest due to being farther from the water and not having any direct flow, but the difference should not be significant.

I would probably use non-conductive thermal paste instead of thermal pad if the block directly contacts all four chips.


----------



## nateman_doo

Thermal Pads are required. 1.5mm It would touch the battery release latch otherwise. The tolerances are in the thousandths in some areas of the block.


----------



## Convex

What do you guys recommend as the best thermal pads to use? i.e. brand


----------



## aznpersuazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> What do you guys recommend as the best thermal pads to use? i.e. brand


Fujipoly. Great stuff.


----------



## Squashie

*SUBBED* So far i have read 1000 posts in 3 days, this is throughly both entertaining and inspiring
Now back to page 100! GoGo!


----------



## Convex

thankyou! here rep+


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> What do you guys recommend as the best thermal pads to use? i.e. brand


If you really mean BEST thermal compound then my call would be Indigo Xtreme. Short of a full contact soldering it creates the most thorough contact between the CPU and your heatsink, for thermal pastes I haven't kept up with the latest releases.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Saw it. Loved it. Subbed it.


----------



## barracks510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> If you really mean BEST thermal compound then my call would be Indigo Xtreme. Short of a full contact soldering it creates the most thorough contact between the CPU and your heatsink, for thermal pastes I haven't kept up with the latest releases.


That's a thermal material for a CPU. I'm not sure, but I think Convex was asking for something along the lines of 3M Thermal Tape/pad (which does work really well.)


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> What do you guys recommend as the best thermal pads to use? i.e. brand


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznpersuazn*
> 
> Fujipoly. Great stuff.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> If you really mean BEST thermal compound then my call would be Indigo Xtreme. Short of a full contact soldering it creates the most thorough contact between the CPU and your heatsink, for thermal pastes I haven't kept up with the latest releases.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> That's a thermal material for a CPU. I'm not sure, but I think Convex was asking for something along the lines of 3M Thermal Tape/pad (which does work really well.)


Convex's question has been answered - Fujipoly and its available products online at Frozencpu.

Though I do see some 3M pads on that site, too


----------



## nateman_doo

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14973/thr-128/EK_Thermal_Pad_Sheet_-_160mm_x_155mm_x_15mm.html

Good to go

The VR block can use much thinner material.


----------



## Vvt1978

I've got some installation attempt pictures for natemandoo's block. I would have thought cpachris would have beat me to it.



Here's a picture of the overall board with natemandoo's blocks installed.



As you can see in the pictures, there are some innate problems with the positioning of the O-ring near the CPU block.



With the stock screw that is present on my CPU block, there's no way to mount any kind of fitting there.



Even with the stock crew for the CPU block removed, there isn't enough clearance for a fitting.





That o-ring needs to be moved by at least 1/8 inch towards the PCIe slot or 1/2 inch closer to the IO panel. I've already emailed natemandoo about it. Hopefully, all that would be needed is a new delrin top with a repositioning of that o-ring.


----------



## Convex

Regardless of the small flaw, that block looks 100 times better than the MIPs block does imo. Have you figured out how to make it work yet cpachris? haha


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Convex*
> 
> Regardless of the small flaw, that block looks 100 times better than the MIPs block does imo. Have you figured out how to make it work yet cpachris? haha


From the pictures of cpachris's cpu block, I'm pretty sure he'll have the same problem I have with nateman_doo's block. The only solution I can think of without modifying nateman_doo's block is to try and modify the cpu block by using a dremel or something to cut down the cpu block screw mount and then using a custom screw for that part of the CPU block mount. And I don't want to do that! Nateman_doo did say he wanted to make sure the block was universally compatible. And I think this is a big compatibility issue which I'm sure he will address. And I don't see it being a problem for him to move that o-ring a little on a new delrin top.

But, from what I've seen in this build, if anyone can make nateman_doo's block work without a new delrin top, it'd be cpachris! Any ideas Chris?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> From the pictures of cpachris's cpu block, I'm pretty sure he'll have the same problem I have with nateman_doo's block. The only solution I can think of without modifying nateman_doo's block is to try and modify the cpu block by using a dremel or something to cut down the cpu block screw mount and then using a custom screw for that part of the CPU block mount. And I don't want to do that! Nateman_doo did say he wanted to make sure the block was universally compatible. And I think this is a big compatibility issue which I'm sure he will address. And I don't see it being a problem for him to move that o-ring a little on a new delrin top.
> 
> But, from what I've seen in this build, if anyone can make nateman_doo's block work without a new delrin top, it'd be cpachris! Any ideas Chris?


use a strip in combination with one of the screws from the block to push down the cpu block. just a thought i have.


----------



## cpachris

I didn't get to try and put it on before leaving for NYC. Will be here for a week. Will attempt installation as soon as I'm back. But I think I will have similar problems with the CPU block....as well as my RAM block for the other port. Definitely not a minor flaw as described above.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> use a strip in combination with one of the screws from the block to push down the cpu block. just a thought i have.


That wouldn't work. The other side of the CPU block's screw mounts sit right against the side of the VRM block. There's no wiggle room to do what you propose. I can't see any other option than a redesigned delrin top. From the pictures of the copper block, I think the only way to do it is to move the o-ring slightly more than 1/8 inch away from the CPU screw. And with my GPU card mounted, there's about that much space between the bevel edge and the GPU card. So nateman_doo has a little wiggle room even if he wants to move the bevel edge over to accommodate the new o-ring position as well.


----------



## seross69

Chris,

Great work and I have finally got caught up with it after not having internet for 2 weeks or not being allowed to use it lol.. I think Bart was right about female carbon life forms.. lol.. on my way to work for 28 days then will have 3 to 8 weeks to work on mine!!!! love your work keep it up


----------



## cpachris

Package from Taiwan.....



So...a few weeks ago I was doing some tinkering, and started wondering if some copper accents in my fittings might look nice. I sent Bitspower an email wondering if they might consider doing a custom copper plated batch for me, ....or sending me some fittings with no finish on them so I could have them plated somewhere else.

Vincent at Bitspower was quick to jump on this thought and offered to do them for me. Lo and behold....here they are:



I decided to start with a smallish batch of multi-link fittings (both C47 and C48) and some stop fittings. Thought they might be easy to work into my color scheme.



I haven't seen these anywhere before.....but the professional and normal product lables accompanied everything with an actual product code and everything. So....perhaps Bitspower is thinking about expanding their product line with a new finish? To be honest....I can't imagine why there are not more companies out there offering copper already. It goes with a lot of color themes, just because of the prevalence of copper blocks.

Here is the entire batch I ordered.....



...and now some closeups of each of the 3 types of pieces.








It appears to be an anodized finish instead of an actual copper plating....but I'm no expert so I can't be sure. The color is very close to the copper in my blocks....but maybe a tad more of gold in the color. Regardless...they look gorgeous. I'll be working these into some pictures as I swap blocks for the testing of the nateman_doo blocks. That is....assuming I can even get those installed.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Package from Taiwan.....
> 
> 
> 
> So...a few weeks ago I was doing some tinkering, and started wondering if some copper accents in my fittings might look nice. I sent Bitspower an email wondering if they might consider doing a custom copper plated batch for me, ....or sending me some fittings with no finish on them so I could have them plated somewhere else.
> 
> Vincent at Bitspower was quick to jump on this thought and offered to do them for me. Lo and behold....here they are:
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to start with a smallish batch of multi-link fittings (both C47 and C48) and some stop fittings. Thought they might be easy to work into my color scheme.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen these anywhere before.....but the professional and normal product lables accompanied everything with an actual product code and everything. So....perhaps Bitspower is thinking about expanding their product line with a new finish? To be honest....I can't imagine why there are not more companies out there offering copper already. It goes with a lot of color themes, just because of the prevalence of copper blocks.
> 
> Here is the entire batch I ordered.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...and now some closeups of each of the 3 types of pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be an anodized finish instead of an actual copper plating....but I'm no expert so I can't be sure. The color is very close to the copper in my blocks....but maybe a tad more of gold in the color. Regardless...they look gorgeous. I'll be working these into some pictures as I swap blocks for the testing of the nateman_doo blocks. That is....assuming I can even get those installed.


----------



## wthenshaw

You kept that one quiet.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Awesome.


----------



## seross69

+2


----------



## cpachris

I bought some more matte black fittings. This is enough to recreate the fitting layout that is on the motherboard right now. I love my white fittings when they are up against the white radiators, the white case, etc. I like them against the black motherboard. I want to love them. But before I can tell if it looks the best it can, I need to duplicate what I've done in black and see which I like better.



Combined with the new copper crystal link fittings, I'll have some fun options to play with. Right now, I'm using the red crystal link fittings with the white fittings. Going to play with these options.....


----------



## theseekeroffun

I could have saved you a lot on the black fittings, I am about to sell all of mine.


----------



## Barefooter

Love those copper fittings! Can't wait to see the side by side!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Awesome.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> +2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Love those copper fittings! Can't wait to see the side by side!


Thanks! I can't wait to see them in the build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> You kept that one quiet.


A boy has to keep some secrets....right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I could have saved you a lot on the black fittings, I am about to sell all of mine.


You going with the Monsoon this time? I'm intrigued with their lighted fittings.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Did you get my PM?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> A boy has to keep some secrets....right?


Depends, are you married yet?


----------



## cpachris

Quick update.....

Sometimes you have to take a step backwards before you can step forward. When I replaced the pump last time, I guess I did not get it tightened up enough on the pump top, and over the last month or so...it loosened up enough to have a very small leak. So small....I really didn't ever notice it. Maybe a drop every day or so....but some water got back into the circuitry of the pump and fried it. So...I got another pump and gave it the same treatment as before:

- sound proofing
- replace molex connector with nice black one and sleeve the power cables
- extend the rpm and PWM wires, and sleeve them together as one.

It's done, and reinstalled. And then since I had to drain the system to replace the pump, I went ahead and took the main case off of the pedestal, and trimmed a few screws that were too long for their intended purpose. These are the screws I was using to secure the pump brackets to the floor panel. I also did a little work on wiring on the pedestal while it was off.

So now...I've got the main case back on the pedestal. I'm going trout fishing this weekend, so here are just a couple of quick pics before I get out of here for the weekend.....





Also...I'm in the middle of replacing the two SATA power cables with one longer one that powers all 16 SSD's....instead of 2 separate ones that each power 8. This will make the cabling run cleaner. I think I'm even going to put two extra connectors on the top and bottom to ensure ease of expand-ability when I'm ready for more SSD's.



I'll be doing all of the nateman_doo block vs MIPS block comparisons when I get back in town. I hope to have that done next week. Along with a revised fittings layout using the black fittings and copper crystal-link connectors.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Depends, are you married yet?


Ha! Lol....you are a wise man.

Actually....got married last week to my 5-year sweetie JennG. We did the ceremony in Central Park in NYC, which is where I proposed last November. She's moved in now, and this creates a little added pressure to finish up this marathon build, and get the beast of a box into my office. You'll see a lot of progress, and most likely a completion, over the next 2 to 3 weeks.


----------



## Citra

Congratulations!


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ha! Lol....you are a wise man.
> 
> Actually....got married last week to my 5-year sweetie JennG. We did the ceremony in Central Park in NYC, which is where I proposed last November. She's moved in now, and this creates a little added pressure to finish up this marathon build, and get the beast of a box into my office. You'll see a lot of progress, and most likely a completion, over the next 2 to 3 weeks.


Congrats on getting married Chris! I too waited five years before I married my wife... it was the best thing I ever did.

So... does that mean JennG gets to use your machine?


----------



## Snyderman34

Congrats man! Can't wait to see this beast finished!


----------



## Wibble360

Congratulations! You kept that quiet...

Will we see a wedding photo?!


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Actually....got married last week to my 5-year sweetie JennG. We did the ceremony in Central Park in NYC, which is where I proposed last November.


Congratulations!

Also no. You are no longer allowed secrets.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Congrats man!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Congratulations!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Congrats man!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Congrats man! Can't wait to see this beast finished!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Congratulations!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Congrats on getting married Chris! I too waited five years before I married my wife... it was the best thing I ever did.


Thanks! She's a keeper, and I'm a lucky guy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> So... does that mean JennG gets to use your machine?


She's knows better than to even ask.







But I'll be building her one next. She wants pink and black.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> Congratulations! You kept that quiet...
> 
> Will we see a wedding photo?!


Wedding photo, huh? How about a traditional shot of the groomsmen (my boys) admiring the ring.......


----------



## luciddreamer124

Congrats on the wedding! And I love those fittings, they look great


----------



## Mainsil

Congratulations!


----------



## Whatts

Congrats man!

So, you plan on starting on JennG's machine pretty soon after finishing the BBBB?
If not it's going to be cold turkey for me


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> ...To join my white wires to the wires coming out of the connector, first I twist them together, and then I solder them to secure the connection. The twist I use is done like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like with my wires:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the wires with some solder securing the connection. Don't make fun of my solder skills. I've gotten better...but clearly don't have a future doing any type of intricate solder work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


After all the bad splice and solder jobs I've seen here, it is so refreshing to see someone do it correctly.


----------



## TATH

Looking good Chris.


----------



## mandrix

Congrats on your marriage, Chris!


----------



## Electrocutor

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*






So lavender, huh? Not too shabby. Hopefully you get all the multimedia from your wedding: my brother and his wife paid a "well recommended" person to take video footage of their wedding and reception and after 8 years, they still haven't gotten any of it and the person still hasn't admitted to losing the footage.

Quote:


> She's knows better than to even ask. smile.gif But I'll be building her one next. She wants pink and black.


I saw some shots of a pink and black CaseLabs over in their section; but if memory serves, she was looking more toward mini-ITX or Micro ATX instead of a full blown tower.

In other matters, have you seen the new Dell monitor? (http://www.techspot.com/news/53343-dells-ultrasharp-32-a-32-inch-4k-ultra-hd-monitor-arriving-in-q4.html) A 32 inch IGZO panel.


----------



## yraith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> 
> I saw some shots of a pink and black CaseLabs over in their section; but if memory serves, she was looking more toward mini-ITX or Micro ATX instead of a full blown tower.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144258 for pink mid-tower
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144147 for pink mATX


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> 
> So lavender, huh? Not too shabby. Hopefully you get all the multimedia from your wedding: my brother and his wife paid a "well recommended" person to take video footage of their wedding and reception and after 8 years, they still haven't gotten any of it and the person still hasn't admitted to losing the footage.
> I saw some shots of a pink and black CaseLabs over in their section; but if memory serves, she was looking more toward mini-ITX or Micro ATX instead of a full blown tower.
> 
> In other matters, have you seen the new Dell monitor? (http://www.techspot.com/news/53343-dells-ultrasharp-32-a-32-inch-4k-ultra-hd-monitor-arriving-in-q4.html) A 32 inch IGZO panel.


So three of these rotated 90 degrees to form one screen...

Don't mind me dreaming away over here...


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144258 for pink mid-tower
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144147 for pink mATX


Apevia's are garbage. I owned owned one.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Apevia's are garbage. I owned owned one.


They do look pretty poor, certainly nowhere near the standard a CL owner would require.


----------



## theseekeroffun

Get an Overlord Tempest http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/27-displays/products/tempest-x270oc-glossy
They are unbelievable!


----------



## Wibble360

Nice ring! Good choice with the lavender.

+1 for you needing to do another build straight after this one - if you're going with black and pink Caselabs you'll have to go pretty all-out to beat Reglar's Pandamonium build tho ;-)


----------



## GingerJohn

I thought Jenn wanted an orange and black themed build?


----------



## deafboy

Congrats! That's an awesome shot too, lol. Looks like you had a great time


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of new fittings installed.....

Now before I show these new black and copper fittings together, I want to be clear that I love my white fittings with the red accents. I love them. I love them against my white rads....I love them against my white case....I love them with white sleeving next to them....




The white/red combo just goes great with my color theme, my fans, my powder coated rads, my case....with everything except....my motherboard. I like the white/red combo on the motherboard....but I don't love it. The white fittings just make so much contrast when coming off the black waterblock tops. Not sure how many of you have Juthos build...but he ended up painting all his waterblocks white and using white fittings....and it looks very good. But I love the look of my black and copper waterblocks....so I don't want to go that route.

So....as I showed in some previous pictures, I'm playing with a black fitting and copper accent theme now to see if I like it better.

I've duplicated my fittings layout in the black/copper theme and taken shots of both white/red and black/copper from similar angles. Here is one upright:



Spoiler: White/Red!









Spoiler: Black/Copper!







Here is one with motherboard tray turned sideways:



Spoiler: White/Red!









Spoiler: Black/Copper!







...and here are some other shots and angles of the black/copper combination. I think I like it better. Seems a tad more professional....maybe more serious. Draws your attention more to the board, components and blocks.....rather than to the fittings. Plus...I kind of like the idea of having the first (and only for now!) set of Bitspower copper fittings.








Would love to know what you all think!


----------



## Panther Al

That black and copper just plain flat out rocks on the MB. Go for it.


----------



## yraith

try black/white or red/copper yet?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

My mouth dropped when I opened that second spoiler. Match made in heaven.


----------



## GingerJohn

Black / copper, done deal.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Yeah, the black and copper combo is much more visually appealing overall.

Perhaps if you added some black and/or copper accents elsewhere within that part of the case, it would visually tie the whole thing together instead of seeing an island of black and copper in a sea of crimson and white.

You've already got a start on it with the black screw-mounts for the fan on the back. Maybe the I/O port covers can be painted copper on the side facing in...


----------



## Citra

Black/Copper
\thread


----------



## lootbag

Wow that looks amazing!
Black/copper done right.


----------



## luciddreamer124

I love both of them. But I think the black/copper is better. Simply stunning.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Black and copper all the way for the board.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Electrocutor

black/copper is superior in terms of eye-candy, but I wonder how it will fair inside the case with the lighting and everything else being white: won't it show up as a very dark area?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Definitely the black and copper! What I feel would really rock would be black and gold plate.


----------



## theseopenfields

Black and copper is just fantastic. Would be nice to see it in the case though, to see how well it fits with the rest of your build.


----------



## waslakhani

Honestly I would flip a coin. Psychologically when you flip the coin you will want a certain one to land on. For example heads is black and copper and tails is white.When you flip the coin you will know which one you want because you will want it to land on that certain side. This is how I make all my decisions. There are many psychological tricks that can make your mind up in a few seconds.

BTW Black and Copper FTW!!!!!


----------



## Barefooter

I like both color schemes. The white ones really stand out, and the black ones kind of blend into the background. So if you want the fitting to pop stick with white. The black looks really great too.

Have you considered using the white fittings with copper accents?


----------



## Big Elf

Black and copper looks magnificent but I'd save that for your next build. The red and white still suits your original colour scheme.


----------



## TATH

Looking great.
I thought you had other memmory dominator platinum.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> try black/white or red/copper yet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I like both color schemes. The white ones really stand out, and the black ones kind of blend into the background. So if you want the fitting to pop stick with white. The black looks really great too.
> 
> Have you considered using the white fittings with copper accents?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Black and copper looks magnificent but I'd save that for your next build. The red and white still suits your original colour scheme.


^^ This and ^^ this and ^^ this, or DEM and DOSE !! changes the base color of the CRIMSON fans in relation to all that white ! .... that's a mobo from another planet with black and copper !

I can't believe that a newlywed can make/find the time to do that all up !! ;-)


----------



## JambonJovi

Black and copper all the way.
Looks amazing


----------



## Wibble360

The black and copper does look cool in its own right, but doesn't gel with the rest of the case. As Electrocutor pointed out, it's a lot of black / darkness and comes across as a mass of "negative space" whereas the white fittings make the board seem more integrated with the case.

That said though, the black and copper fittings look so cool I might have to vote for them anyway...


----------



## seross69

Black and copper look really good in just those shots but the only way to tell is for us to see shots of the whole area with the crimson and white to see how it looks. but I really think the crimson and white would be better...


----------



## chase11

Black and copper all the way. If you don't like them and send them my way, I wouldn't even be mad.


----------



## carmas

The black/copper combination is stunning, go for it


----------



## Whatts

I really like the black/copper, but I'd like to see it in the case to get a better idea of the overall look...


----------



## Seanimus

black and copper cpachris.
the problem I have and you have, which electrocutor also pointed out, is that the case is white-- so you will have to balance that out to have white fittings whenever the background is the white case, and black fittings when the background like motherboard is black.
Color is a personal choice (which changes over time), so what ever you like, after looking at it for more than 2 days (lol); sometimes it looks great at the start, and starts to get boring really fast.

[Edit] Just noticed you got married. Congrats and beautiful photograph with kids.


----------



## seross69

Yeah Chris I have been meaning to tell you congradulations on getting married. Hope you did like I did the 2nd time, get the right woman..


----------



## lee-turbo

Awaresome build, browse thru the whole log, really love the crimson red


----------



## engmitch

Black and copper wins on style.


----------



## mandrix

I think pulling out the copper and black at this point is....wrong. It looks good, no doubt, but I think in the long run you will miss the crimson and white theme you already had going.

I say go with whatever works for you, but I would strongly consider saving the copper and black for another build, if you in fact are planning another.

Either way you can't go wrong, and you're the one that has to live with it... I just think you ought to maintain the theme as planned.


----------



## TATH

Personal "i like the black and copper mutch more" looking verry clean.

Stil dont now why you changed the memory. If its because of the coolingblocks i can tell you that i already seen a build with the modified platinums so that the can put the coolblock on.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Personal "i like the black and copper mutch more" looking verry clean.
> 
> Stil dont now why you changed the memory. If its because of the coolingblocks i can tell you that i already seen a build with the modified platinums so that the can put the coolblock on.


These?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Personal "i like the black and copper mutch more" looking verry clean.
> 
> Stil dont now why you changed the memory. If its because of the coolingblocks i can tell you that i already seen a build with the modified platinums so that the can put the coolblock on.


The Gskill is a better memory kit in my opinion and the Z79 Extreme 11 has problems running the cosair ram at 2400 or higher... if I remember right but asrock may have fixed this with a bios update.


----------



## Matthew_Rocz

Damn I'm speechless.. This is a wonderful build, i love the layout of it. Just wondering, How much was the budget for this beauty?


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matthew_Rocz*
> 
> Damn I'm speechless.. This is a wonderful build, i love the layout of it. Just wondering, How much was the budget for this beauty?


Not something that is spoken about,

He has spent around.... A year doing something he loves.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> These?


Yes those look like it. do you have the link.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> He has spent around.... A year doing something he loves.


_Over_ a year









It has been 1 year, 2 months and 4 days since the first post in this thread. Where did the time go?


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> It has been 1 year, 2 months and 4 days since the first post in this thread. Where did the time go?


Probably to that same mystical place where the bills that used be in my wallet went...
Yes, I'm still blaming cpachris for inspiring me


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> It has been 1 year, 2 months and 4 days since the first post in this thread. Where did the time go?
> 
> 
> 
> Probably to that same mystical place where the bills that used be in my wallet went...
Click to expand...

The dryer?


----------



## yraith

kids


----------



## cpachris

Thanks for the feedback everybody! As several have mentioned....color combinations come down to personal choice. I think I like the black/copper look much better. I'll leave it like this for the next week as I do all the block comparisons and temperature tests, and see if I change my mind. For me...the black/copper fitting combination just goes perfectly on this black board with black/copper waterblocks.

If I stick with this combination, I definitely don't feel like I'm bailing on the white/crimson color theme originally planned. The case is still crimson and white, the fans are crimson and white, the sleeving is crimson and white, 1/2 the fittings are crimson and white, the rads are white......you get the idea. But I think that it looks better having the motherboard/components section all black and copper. The white fittings just seem to "stick out", not in a good way, against the black blocks and board.

Here are some pictures of the motherboard tray back in the case with the black/copper fittings:






My daughter is applauding that I'm almost done.











I have a few wiring knits to workout, and then I'm filling it back up to start testing.


----------



## seross69

Yes you are right the black and copper looks good in the case i did not figure it would look that good when you could see everything!!


----------



## socketus

I'm glad you like it, hope it tests out well !


----------



## malmental

ABSOLUTELY SIC...!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Wow, that mobo tray looks even better in the case. :drool:


----------



## yraith

just saw the enormity of the case and all those rads... Can you explain to me what you are using the computer for? -again.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> just saw the enormity of the case and all those rads... Can you explain to me what you are using the computer for? -again.


At this stage, the only answer can be "Whatever the hell he wants to do with it."


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> I thought you had other memmory dominator platinum.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Stil dont now why you changed the memory. If its because of the cooling blocks i can tell you that i already seen a build with the modified platinums so that the can put the coolblock on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> These?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The Dominator GT's are the only memory I've ever had in this build. The Dominator platinum's have been discussed in the thread, but I've never owned them. That custom block looks nice though! I'll bet the light bar makes the acrylic look sweet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The Gskill is a better memory kit in my opinion and the Z79 Extreme 11 has problems running the cosair ram at 2400 or higher... if I remember right but asrock may have fixed this with a bios update.


It would take more than a bios update to make a Z79 board work with any memory.


----------



## Wibble360

Well I'm sold. The black / copper fittings look awesome in their natural habitat.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> Well I'm sold. The black / copper fittings look awesome in their natural habitat.


Yah. Hard to argue with that look.


----------



## cpachris

One more nit off the list......

This picture will help me explain why this change was required.....



Follow along from the top......the FC8 fan controller in the 2nd bay has adjustable color LED lights. I have them all set to red.

The Aquaero5 has 3 lights on the right hand side of the faceplate. They are all red.

The HDD activity LED that comes with the CaseLabs cases is red.

BUT......the main power switch that comes with the CaseLabs cases has a glowing blue ring around it. It's throwing my mojo off, and it must be replaced. I got this switch from FCPU....



I've read about some confusion regarding correct size of these switches to buy if you want to replace them. Apparently some vendors sell them based on the outside circumference of the ring vs the inside circumference of the ring. I don't really know about all that....but if you buy a Mod/Smart switch....you want a 22mm one to replace the main power switch. This one fits.



Since I had already sleeved the wires for my switch....all I really need is the switch itself. It does come with additional wires if you need them.



This was as simple as undoing two screws and unplugging the switch I wanted to replace.



For those that have been following for a year or so *gasp*, you'll remember that I'm running both the Power Switch and the HDD activity lights down and join them in a single 10 pin motherboard connector, so that I only have one thing to plug/unplug into the board when I take it in/out of the case. With hindsight...this has been a wonderful mod. With a GTX690 in the 5th slot....I just don't have a lot of room down there for hands where the power/HDD/LED connectors are. I always found it difficult to get the small 2pin connectors into the right sections on the motherboard. The 10pin connector goes on easy...and I don't have to remember what order the little 2pin connectors were supposed to go on in. I smile everytime I have to plug/unplug this connector from the motherboard. More info back in this post on what I did. Easy to do and highly recommended for those wanting an easy tweak for their systems.

Finishing up a power harness for the 3 fans on the HDD section of the case....and then I'm ready to fill it back up and start testing. More later today......


----------



## malmental

updated list of installed hardware.?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matthew_Rocz*
> 
> Damn I'm speechless.. This is a wonderful build, i love the layout of it. Just wondering, How much was the budget for this beauty?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Not something that is spoken about,


There are rules for talking about the cost of the BBBB. They are kind of like the rules for Fight Club. First rule is......?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> There are rules for talking about the cost of the BBBB. They are kind of like the rules for Fight Club. First rule is......?


Show no mercy?


----------



## cpachris




----------



## yraith

Quote:


> For those that have been following for a year or so *gasp*, you'll remember that I'm running both the Power Switch and the HDD activity lights down and join them in a single 10 pin motherboard connector, so that I only have one thing to plug/unplug into the board when I take it in/out of the case. With hindsight...this has been a wonderful mod. With a GTX690 in the 5th slot....I just don't have a lot of room down there for hands where the power/HDD/LED connectors are. I always found it difficult to get the small 2pin connectors into the right sections on the motherboard. The 10pin connector goes on easy...and I don't have to remember what order the little 2pin connectors were supposed to go on in. I smile everytime I have to plug/unplug this connector from the motherboard. More info back in this post on what I did. Easy to do and highly recommended for those wanting an easy tweak for their systems.


I have always wondered why motherboard companies don't have a standard, and make an easy to use connector. I mean everything from USB connectors to mounts are usually all standard uniformity.


----------



## Polska

I do not normally take the time to go through build logs. The case caught my eye and I wanted more. Here I am several hours later after scouring through the photos and details of this thread. Wow what a labour of love this must have been. Truly amazing build cpachris. Sir I commend you. Thank you for this piece of art and the time you have taken to share it with us.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Yes those look like it. do you have the link.


I'm not sure if he posted them on the forums, I took that from his facebook... I'll look and see if I can dig it up.

edit:

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?p=3288675


----------



## cpachris

Last powerharness done for the 3 fans in front of the HDD section. Three male connectors all joining together into one cable with a female connector end on it. The female end will plug into one of the empty AQ5 fan headers.





Nothing too exciting here....but this is the last thing I wanted to do before filling it back up. So....crossing my fingers for no leaks with my newly revised black/copper fitting layout. More later....


----------



## cpachris

Back up and running....only had one small leak which was in the fitting on the memory block. No damage done...and the loop is just about completely bled of air bubbles.







In the one below...you can see the red ring replacement of the power switch working.....





So now...I'm working on finalizing how my testing will happen. I'll post some details on what I'm planning on doing in just a little bit and solicit some feedback. I want to run a series of temperature and flow tests with the current Mips blocks, and then start swapping out for the nateman_doo blocks and doing the same tests. Not only do I hope to determine which block performs the best, but I also want to see impact of the memory waterblocks on my flowrate....and the impact of flow rate on my component temps.


----------



## wthenshaw

Verrrrrrry nice


----------



## shaukj0n3s

Nice


----------



## yraith

unreal man, unreal... Looks great, the copper bits fit the feel of the copper radiator... Now, after the testing, you going to play some facebook games?


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> So now...I'm working on finalizing how my testing will happen. I'll post some details on what I'm planning on doing in just a little bit and solicit some feedback. I want to run a series of temperature and flow tests with the current Mips blocks, and then start swapping out for the nateman_doo blocks and doing the same tests. Not only do I hope to determine which block performs the best, but I also want to see impact of the memory waterblocks on my flowrate....and the impact of flow rate on my component temps.


I definitely like the copper/black motherboard accents better with the new fittings. And speaking of nateman_doo's block... Have you come up with a solution for the problem with getting a fitting to work with the CPU side o-ring that doesn't impact the mounting screw? If not, I think your comparison will have to wait. If you have, then please share. I asked nateman_doo to send me a new delrin top with the o-ring moved over. However, my version of nateman_doo's block will just be sitting on a shelf gathering dust until he gets back from wherever he is deployed and can work on it.


----------



## Seanimus

Chris, did you forget to get the triple bay mount from CaseLabs? I had the first ever made for me, and now its available online:

Flex-Bay 5.25 Device Mount - Short SD 3U


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Here are some pictures of the motherboard tray back in the case with the black/copper fittings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome with the black / copper fittings on the motherboard. I agree with the white fittings standing out too much.

There is one fitting I would change back to white though - the QDC leading into the GPU area:



It just seems to stick out there on its own.


----------



## Rbby258

^ this after seeing that picture


----------



## cpachris

I haven't played with embedding a google spreadsheet in a post....but here goes.....

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AqtnnmbFcXdYdEhQajdDXzc0ZXo5cElzX2ZCWnJRSUE&single=true&gid=0&output=html&widget=true

Want to create a place where I can log results from temp/flowrate testing so that people can easily peruse. I think the spreadsheet in this post will update automatically as I log more data.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> unreal man, unreal... Looks great, the copper bits fit the feel of the copper radiator... Now, after the testing, you going to play some facebook games?


Probably minesweeper, he wouldn't want to stress it to hard.


----------



## Panther Al

Yeah, I can see Minesweeper. If he so much as touched Candy Crush that machine is powerfull enough to reach up and slap some sense into someone.


----------



## Seanimus

You need to put google drive pc on your computer with shared folder synced to Google Docs.
Then every time you update spreadsheet, the back ground process should upload automatically to Google Docs, which in turn will reflect in the iFrame of your post.
Anticipate that pump speed will not drive your temperatures as much as the fan RPM .

[Edit] I hope you play some games in 1920 at ultra settings on that computer. If not, someone from overclock is going to do a drive by, if you play solitaire with wife. lol


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> Now, after the testing, you going to play some facebook games?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Probably minesweeper, he wouldn't want to stress it to hard.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Yeah, I can see Minesweeper. If he so much as touched Candy Crush that machine is powerfull enough to reach up and slap some sense into someone.


Don't be silly guys. With 2x GTX690's, I'll of course be playing a lot of solitaire. And I don't want to give all my results away yet, but I'm getting some crazy high frame rates with solitaire in test mode right now. crazy high.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Don't be silly guys. With 2x GTX690's, I'll of course be playing a lot of solitaire. And I don't want to give all my results away yet, but I'm getting some crazy high frame rates with solitaire in test mode right now. crazy high.










You could even get playable frame rates in Hearts!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> You need to put google drive pc on your computer with shared folder synced to Google Docs.
> Then every time you update spreadsheet, the back ground process should upload automatically to Google Docs, which in turn will reflect in the iFrame of your post.
> Anticipate that pump speed will not drive your temperatures as much as the fan RPM .
> 
> [Edit] I hope you play some games in 1920 at ultra settings on that computer. If not, someone from overclock is going to do a drive by, if you play solitaire with wife. lol


I've used my G drive for awhile, but I didn't have to mess with any shared folders or syncing. Seems to be updating the post when I make a change to the spreadsheet, which is nice.

Some preliminary tests done a few months ago showed that some of my blocks were fairly sensitive to flow rate and temperatures were impacted as much or more than with fan speed. I think a lot of that is because of how much rad space I have. Spinning fans faster becomes less important in my system since there is so much radiator space already. My water/air delta's never get too high regardless of how fast the fans are spinning. Spinning the rad fans faster just lowers your coolant temp (and thus your water/air delta)....which in turn lowers the component temperatures. So if your water/air delta's are getting high....then spinning your fans faster can help a lot. But if your delta's are never getting too high....then spinning your fans faster isn't going to help much.

I'll be looking to find the sweet spot for my system.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

I gotta tell ya, lads, I'm getting a chubby thinking about the amazing photorealism those two GTX 690's can get with a high end graphics program like MSPaint...


----------



## yraith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> I gotta tell ya, lads, I'm getting a chubby thinking about the amazing photorealism those two GTX 690's can get with a high end graphics program like MSPaint...


^^^ this.


----------



## seross69

LOL gents..


----------



## PolyMorphist

After keeping up with this build log for a couple months, and reading EVERY post that Chris has put up, I wonder one thing. How are Chris' hands still functioning? I'd say throughout this build log he's typed at least a novel's worth. Either he's an average typer with patience and dedication, or he's a 120WPM speed-typer with dedication...

Chris, may I ask your average WPM count? $50 that it's above 80


----------



## PolyMorphist

Back on topic, I just wanted to mention ONE tiny thin that'll probably make me look like a lone sheep (some pun intended). While countless hours have gone into this build, and many gallons of blood, sweat, tears, and Cabernet have been lost, I think that this build is missing just ONE thing. Even though you have a huge case made even huge(r?) with pedestals, the two most extravagant GPUs, and the largest watercooling loop in the galaxy, I just think that the build is empty. You've shoved in so many things into that case. Custom wiring, custom lighting, cooling, 2 PSU's. But when I look at the build, it just has so much empty white space in it.

Now to make this seem more like constructive criticism, and not just criticism, I tried to give some suggestions as to how you could maybe get rid of' the large space. Unfortunately, nothing came to mind that wouldn't require you to just disassemble the entire thing and spend another small county's GDP on parts. Ultimately, I mean no offense with the criticism, and I just mean to offer some opinions from a fellow Overclocker.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PolyMorphist*
> 
> Back on topic, I just wanted to mention ONE tiny thin that'll probably make me look like a lone sheep (some pun intended). While countless hours have gone into this build, and many gallons of blood, sweat, tears, and Cabernet have been lost, I think that this build is missing just ONE thing. Even though you have a huge case made even huge(r?) with pedestals, the two most extravagant GPUs, and the largest watercooling loop in the galaxy, I just think that the build is empty. You've shoved in so many things into that case. Custom wiring, custom lighting, cooling, 2 PSU's. But when I look at the build, it just has so much empty white space in it.
> 
> Now to make this seem more like constructive criticism, and not just criticism, I tried to give some suggestions as to how you could maybe get rid of' the large space. Unfortunately, nothing came to mind that wouldn't require you to just disassemble the entire thing and spend another small county's GDP on parts. Ultimately, I mean no offense with the criticism, and I just mean to offer some opinions from a fellow Overclocker.


I actually disagree with this I like the Clean looking empty space, that is why you get a case labs case is because you want lots of room!!!


----------



## cpachris

I'm through with 3 of my temperature test runs, and working on the 4th right now. Here is a screenshot of an Aquasuite page I created to help me with monitoring the temps, flow rate and fan speeds that I need to for these tests.



I can't get the temps for the Areca card into the Aquasuite screen, and I also can't get the Southbridge temps. I have to use an Areca utility to get the card temps, and an Asrock utility to get the Southbridge temps. But other than those...this screen makes it very easy.

I've updated the spreadsheet with the raw temps from the first three tests. You can see these raw numbers in this post. But these are raw unadjusted numbers. My ambient fluctuates by up to 2 degrees, so only the adjusted numbers will be meaningful. I'm working on a separate set of tables/charts to illustrate the results, but you can peruse the unadjusted numbers now if you so choose.

Couple of thoughts as people take a look at the numbers. I'm choosing to run Prime95 for the load on the CPU cores, CPU Package, Memory and Motherboard temperatures. I'm making an assumption that the Asrock temperature node labeled 'Motherboard' is for the VRM section of the motherboard....although I have not been able to verify that anywhere. When I run any of the standard Prime95 tests...I get varying temperatures based on the size of the FFT being run at the time. There can be as much as a 4 or 5 degree temperature difference in the CPU cores when running a small FFT vs a large FFT. The standard tests bounce around between different sizes. This is probably great to test stability of the CPU...but wreaks havoc on performing an accurate temperature test at different fan and pump speeds. So what I have elected to do, is run Prime95 using a custom test of 512K FFT's in-place. This creates a constant and stable heat load on the system, and I don't have to worry about what size FFT is being run when I take the temperature reading.

Another thing I'm trying to handle with my testing, is the impact of the ambient room temps on my water/air delta. The box is in my living room right now...and since it's August in Oklahoma...my central air conditioner system has to kick on periodically to keep constant temperatures. I have my thermostat for the downstairs set to about 75 Fahrenheit. This creates the situation where the air conditioning system kicks "on" for about 10 minutes, and then turns off for about 10 minutes during the heat of the day. This 20 minute cycle lengthens significantly during evening hours. The cycle repeats over and over. During this cycle, the ambient air temperature can rise by about 2 degrees before the air conditioner kicks on and brings temperatures back down to desired levels. IF the coolant temperature rose and fell with the ambient air temps IMMEDIATELY....then this wouldn't create any issues. The coolant temperature does change with the ambient room temp....but its changes lag the ambient air temp changes by several minutes. It just takes longer for changes in the room temperature to impact the coolant. This causes an issue if you are focusing on measuring small changes in the water/air delta. Picture in your mind a gentle rolling sine wave. This is what my ambient room temps look like. The temps rise while the air conditioner is off....and then when they have risen enough...the thermostat kicks in the air conditioner runs until the temps gently fall back down. It repeats over and over. If the sine wave for the coolant temp did the exact same thing at the exact same time....this wouldn't cause an issue with measuring water/air delta's. But because the sine wave for the coolant temp lags the ambient air temp....it causes issues. Picture in your mind two identical sine waves....one on top of the other. If you gently nudge the top sine wave to the right....so that it's highs no longer coincide with the highs of the lower sine wave....you'll get the picture. These lagging changing in the coolant temperature cause the water/air delta to fluctuate by as much as 2 degrees even when there is a constant heat source. Even when idling!

To mitigate this reality....what I'm doing is using the statistics provided by the Aquasuite software to measure an average temperature reading over the last 60 minutes. First...I run the heat load until I've reached equilibrium (no large changes in coolant temp or component temp). Then....I continue running the heat load for an additional 60 minutes....and use the 60 minute average temp from the Aquasuite software for my temp reading. This mitigates the small changes water/air delta that occur based on where in the on/off cycle the air conditioner happens to be.

I'll mention one more thing also. I'm running all these temp tests while overclocked at 4.7GHz...using my offset profile. If I were running the CPU at stock settings, my water/air delta's are almost non-existent. Less than 0.5 degrees. This 4.7GHz profile puts vcore at about 1.42 volts when under full load...which is a lot. I don't need near that much under a fixed voltage profile...but this is the lowest I've been able to get for my offset profile. I'm just mentioning this because this much vcore does lead to higher temps.

That's enough for now...but I'll post some summary charts with adjusted data tomorrow...and I'll probably finish up another 2 or 3 of the test runs. You can see all the test runs I'm planning on doing in the spreadsheet in the post I previously linked.


----------



## Seanimus

Well on the topic of optimizing space...ex: instead of radiators on top, make it within the top part of case, and move all the PA2's next to pump to make it more compact looking. It will still look good and u can eliminate any top extended cover that goes there.


----------



## Barefooter

Great testing methodology! Looking forward to all the final data compiled. This should be quite valuable info for others designing their systems.


----------



## yraith

The size of your beast will be a great anchor if your ever in a hurricane!









Does it matter at all about 2degrees, or are you trying to get it to even lower tolerances?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PolyMorphist*
> 
> I just think that the build is empty. You've shoved in so many things into that case. Custom wiring, custom lighting, cooling, 2 PSU's. But when I look at the build, it just has so much empty white space in it.


While disagreeing with you that there is a lot of white space......



....no offense is taken and your opinion is noted. However, I can assure you that I do not like the cramped and crowded look, and would always choose sparse over busy. Not only is it more aesthetically pleasing for me, ....but it is much much easier to work in.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I actually disagree with this I like the Clean looking empty space, that is why you get a case labs case is because you want lots of room!!!


Yeah...with a TX-10 I thought you might feel like that.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Well on the topic of optimizing space...ex: instead of radiators on top, make it within the top part of case, and move all the PA2's next to pump to make it more compact looking. It will still look good and u can eliminate any top extended cover that goes there.


I've got 3 different size tops....so it's always a possibility. But I wouldn't want to have all the power cables, aquabus cables, and USB cables stretched out on the floor of the case. Right now, they are neatly hidden from view when the door is closed. Plus...I'm using those top fans to cool the PA2's. When I run the two pumps that are voltage controlled at low rpm's....the PA2's get REAL hot when I don't have a fan on them. The way I have it setup...the push fans on the top radiators serve dual purpose.


----------



## Seanimus

ok. on a different note, where is the light box to make inside of the case much brighter when you put all the doors/covers? You have to put a lightbox in there!
And secondly, did you order the 3xshort bay mount from caselabs?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> ok. on a different note, where is the light box to make inside of the case much brighter when you put all the doors/covers? You have to put a lightbox in there!
> And secondly, did you order the 3xshort bay mount from caselabs?


Putting a light panel in the floor is something I've kept as an option. I've purposefully kept from installing much in/on the floor. The only things I have on the floor right now are the two PWM D5's that are attached to one of the panels that screws on to the floor. But this might be a BBBB 2.0 project. Not ready to tackle it right now, and lighting is already brighter than you would want when LED strips are turned up to full voltage. It definitely doesn't NEED more light.

The 3x short bay mount wouldn't work for me because the item in the top bay is the AQ5LT, that I'm using behind one of the flex bay covers. So it makes the alignment different than the other two slots.


----------



## Seanimus

Catching up on this thread...didn't know you had LEDs in there. In your 2.0 project when you make the lightbox, you could still leave the pumps on the floor and do cutouts on the lightpanel. The effects will look nice since the edges of the cutout will have brighter light around the pump.
Have to find the picture where you have the LT mounted on shortbay. I need to do the same for my sons build (may start ordering on Monday), and was wondering on how to make that fit. I was thinking the long bay.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> ok. on a different note, where is the light box to make inside of the case much brighter when you put all the doors/covers? You have to put a lightbox in there!
> And secondly, did you order the 3xshort bay mount from caselabs?
> 
> 
> 
> Putting a light panel in the floor is something I've kept as an option. I've purposefully kept from installing much in/on the floor. The only things I have on the floor right now are the two PWM D5's that are attached to one of the panels that screws on to the floor. But this might be a BBBB 2.0 project. Not ready to tackle it right now, and lighting is already brighter than you would want when LED strips are turned up to full voltage. It definitely doesn't NEED more light.
> 
> The 3x short bay mount wouldn't work for me because the item in the top bay is the AQ5LT, that I'm using behind one of the flex bay covers. So it makes the alignment different than the other two slots.
Click to expand...

With the white interior. I'd personally skip out on the LED strips and use an electroluminescent sheet on the bottom and top. It'll give off enough of a glow to light everything up, but not so much that it blinds you, and the white painted interior will bounce that light around further.



Just my $0.02


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> But this might be a BBBB 2.0 project.


Shhhhhh... don't tell Jen.


----------



## yraith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingerJohn*
> 
> Shhhhhh... don't tell Jen.


Well, this will be 'his' .. He can probably get away with making a 2.0 if it is 'hers' =)


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Catching up on this thread...didn't know you had LEDs in there. In your 2.0 project when you make the lightbox, you could still leave the pumps on the floor and do cutouts on the lightpanel. The effects will look nice since the edges of the cutout will have brighter light around the pump.
> Have to find the picture where you have the LT mounted on shortbay. I need to do the same for my sons build (may start ordering on Monday), and was wondering on how to make that fit. I was thinking the long bay.


Here's the proof of led strip lites in his build

http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/3310#post_20168806


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Socketus. Since you know this thread well -- do you also happen to have the link for the front triple bay mount---I need to see how the AQ5 LT is mounted .
Regarding those LEDs and they way it is laid out, it is not as good as a lightbox; but then Chris already knows that, since he is planning it for 2.0.


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> do you also happen to have the link for the front triple bay mount---I need to see how the AQ5 LT is mounted .


Here's how mine is mounted behind a cover plate. Needed to drill out the holes on the AQ brackets a little to make it fit.


----------



## Seanimus

Very Nice Whatts...I'll send you a PM so I don't hijack Chris' thread

,...need a picture of how you got a CL short bay mount and CL solid single bay cover to fit in the same space....Wonderful idea.
I had a similar idea, but mine was not as good yours, as I was thinking CL long bay mount.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Have to find the picture where you have the LT mounted on shortbay. I need to do the same for my sons build (may start ordering on Monday), and was wondering on how to make that fit. I was thinking the long bay.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks Socketus. Since you know this thread well -- do you also happen to have the link for the front triple bay mount---I need to see how the AQ5 LT is mounted.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whatts*
> 
> Here's how mine is mounted behind a cover plate. Needed to drill out the holes on the AQ brackets a little to make it fit.


Probably lots of ways to skin this cat. What I did is use a dremel with a grinding stone, on the CaseLabs cover plate, to take off some of the material right around the little ring where the screw comes through. By taking a some material off, I was able to then stack one of the short mounts directly behind the cover plate...and the normal thumbscrews were still long enough to reach through both the cover plate and the short mount. So the coverplate and short mount are on the same 'pin' and being held by the same screw.

As far as the issue of the AQ5 unit being a little wide and not quite fitting....I experienced it also...but a little brute force got it in the right place. I don't think the PCB is flexing any...but I guess you never know. Everything on it still works fine.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Regarding those LEDs and they way it is laid out, it is not as good as a lightbox; but then Chris already knows that.....


Chris does not know that.







I think there are lots of different ways to light a computer. And kind of like vegetables...everybody will have their own favorite. I have LED strip lighting that I love. I have cold cathode tube lighting in one reservoir that I love. I have LED lit acrylic inside another reservoir that I love. If I do a light panel, it's not because I think its better than something else. Just different. I'll probably always keep some LED stirp lighting in the top of the case. Since the source of the light is hidden...it just brightens everything up. Since it's on a controller, I can make it anywhere from a dull glow....to blindingly bright.

If I do a lighted panel...I'd probably do it in the floor, and would put some sort of inlaid crimson acrylic in the shape of some OU paraphernalia in it. I think it would look very cool....but it wouldn't replace my LED strip lighting. Just give me more options.


----------



## cpachris

Finished up the last of the temp tests that don't require removing a block. That's next. For those that like to peruse the unadjusted temp numbers....you can see then in the spreadsheet in this post.

I'll have the adjusted temps up in a spreadsheet tonight.

Then I'll spin a few charts out of these....while I move on to the next tests. Next I'm going to remove the RAM waterblocks...and see how much that increases flowrate...and if that flowrate has any impact on temps. So far...the testing has showed that some blocks do much better with more flow....and some blocks don't' see much of an impact to more flow. After finishing the tests without the waterblocks...I'm going to move on to swapping out the VRM nateman_doo block with the Mips block. More pictures then.....


----------



## Whatts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Probably lots of ways to skin this cat. What I did is use a dremel with a grinding stone, on the CaseLabs cover plate, to take off some of the material right around the little ring where the screw comes through. By taking a some material off, I was able to then stack one of the short mounts directly behind the cover plate...and the normal thumbscrews were still long enough to reach through both the cover plate and the short mount. So the coverplate and short mount are on the same 'pin' and being held by the same screw.
> 
> As far as the issue of the AQ5 unit being a little wide and not quite fitting....I experienced it also...but a little brute force got it in the right place. I don't think the PCB is flexing any...but I guess you never know. Everything on it still works fine.


That's pretty much how I did it as well, except my AQ would flex when I tried to fit it. As there was a little space between the AQ brackets and the side of the AQ board, I took out the holes by about a millimeter (so the whole thing is just a little narrower and fits like a glove).


----------



## cpachris

Here is spreadsheet with the adjusted temperatures. The actual ambient room temperatures varied from 23.7 to 25.5.....so I've adjusted everything to a 24.0 ambient room temperature, which is what my room normally stays at.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AqtnnmbFcXdYdEhQajdDXzc0ZXo5cElzX2ZCWnJRSUE&single=true&gid=2&output=html&widget=true

I've got a few charts I'll post later today also. Makes it easier to visualize the improvement when fan speed and/or flowrate is ramped up in these tests.

Anxious to see how much, if any, the flowrate is improved by taking off the RAM waterblocks. These last tests show that the memory never really heats up much when under water....and that additional flow rate improves the CPU and GPU temperatures. So if I get more flow without the RAM blocks....I'll have a decision to make.

After that test....I'll put on nateman_doo's VRM block and see how that impacts things. Motherboard temperatures never really got too hot with the Mips block....so I think it will be hard to improve much on temperatures. But where I think nateman_doo's block will outperform Mips is it's restriction.

After that, I'll move on to the larger chipset block. And no...I haven't figure out if I'm going to be able to make it fit or not.


----------



## cpachris

Working on the test that excludes the memory blocks today. I removed the motherboard tray.....getting real good at this. Two quick disconnects, undo the power connections, SATA cables, USB cables, audio, and a fan harness....and it slides right out. Very easy to remove....



I took out the fittings/acrylic connecting all the RAM blocks, and connected the VRM block directly the CPU block and then the GPU blocks with tubing instead....



For now...I'm just plugging the RAM blocks. Got the motheboard tray back in the case, and hooked up everything......



...filled it back up...and now I'm doing some leak testing before I hook the power backup to the motherboard. I always do leak testing with an external power supply and have no electricity running through the motherboard at all.....



I'll probably only run this a few hours....and then I'll hook it back up to power and the monitor. Then I'll be able to see how much more, if any, flowrate I get without the RAM blocks as part of the loop. If I'm getting more flow, then I'll run a few temp tests and see if it impacts temperatures at all. With the RAM blocks installed, I was getting 1.1 gpm with all 4 pumps at full power. The grid posted earlier shows the memory temps during P95 loads. Anxious to see if memory temp is impacted much (don't think it will be) and if flow rate is impacted much by removing the RAM blocks. More later today.....


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll probably only run this a few hours....and then I'll hook it back up to power and the monitor. Then I'll be able to see how much more, if any, flowrate I get without the RAM blocks as part of the loop. If I'm getting more flow, then I'll run a few temp tests and see if it impacts temperatures at all. With the RAM blocks installed, I was getting 1.1 gpm with all 4 pumps at full power. The grid posted earlier shows the memory temps during P95 loads. Anxious to see if memory temp is impacted much (don't think it will be) and if flow rate is impacted much by removing the RAM blocks. More later today.....


You should test it with the memory water blocks removed and install the regular memory heat spreaders back on. If you are going to compare memory temps, you should at least compare it to what you would be using instead of the memory water blocks for memory cooling.


----------



## Nexo

Nice build!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> You should test it with the memory water blocks removed and install the regular memory heat spreaders back on. If you are going to compare memory temps, you should at least compare it to what you would be using instead of the memory water blocks for memory cooling.


Yeah...that would probably be a good idea. But I really don't think it's going to heat up much even with just the non-connected waterblocks sitting on it. We'll see.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nexo*
> 
> Nice build!


Thanks!

Ok. It's hooked back up and running, and I'm now getting 1.2 gpm when pumps are on full speed. That is an increase from 1.1 gpm, but not a significant increase. I'm going to go ahead and run the temperature tests and compare this to the 1.1gpm tests, and see if the little bit of extra flow continues to improve temps. More flow showed better temps for most of the blocks in the first set of tests.

One thing this quick flowrate reading does tell me...is that it is probably not worth it to try and run the RAM blocks in parallel....unless I can do it in a clean aesthetically pleasing way. Running them parallel probably won't pick up much in flowrate at all.


----------



## shaukj0n3s

Maybe a gas powered pump would improve flow?


----------



## seross69




----------



## shaukj0n3s

It wouldn't even take up that much room


----------



## Big Elf

Interesting how little the RAM blocks affect the flow as I'd been wondering about that myself.

I've slightly lost track of what's in your system but I'm getting 3.8 LPM (just over 1 GPM) with 7 blocks and 3 quad rads with a 35X2 at full speed. At around 1500rpm I'm getting 0.75 LPM.

You're either getting better flow rates with a pair of D5s or I need to calibrate my flow meter.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Just saw how many views this thread has. Almost half a million. Just insane. The effort put forth is really reflected there.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Just saw how many views this thread has. Almost half a million. Just insane. The effort put forth is really reflected there.


Half a million views = The most insane build ever.


----------



## Tobiman

Probably cost around $1000 for case accessories alone. Damn!


----------



## shaukj0n3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tobiman*
> 
> Probably cost around $1000 for case accessories alone. Damn!


What is the first rule of fight club


----------



## Tobiman

Go big or go home?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tobiman*
> 
> Go big or go home?


No!! We don't talk about it!! or something like this...


----------



## Nexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaukj0n3s*
> 
> Maybe a gas powered pump would improve flow?


I think so too.


----------



## Tobiman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No!! We don't talk about it!! or something like this...


Ah, note taken. Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## shaukj0n3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nexo*
> 
> I think so too.


It definatly would and not too much space either just one or two more pedestals


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Just saw how many views this thread has. Almost half a million. Just insane. The effort put forth is really reflected there.


MOD OF THE YEAR


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaukj0n3s*
> 
> Maybe a gas powered pump would improve flow?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaukj0n3s*
> 
> It wouldn't even take up that much room


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nexo*
> 
> I think so too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaukj0n3s*
> 
> It definatly would and not too much space either just one or two more pedestals


Too noisy.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Interesting how little the RAM blocks affect the flow as I'd been wondering about that myself.
> 
> I've slightly lost track of what's in your system but I'm getting 3.8 LPM (just over 1 GPM) with 7 blocks and 3 quad rads with a 35X2 at full speed. At around 1500rpm I'm getting 0.75 LPM.
> 
> You're either getting better flow rates with a pair of D5s or I need to calibrate my flow meter.


I have 8 blocks right now (CPU, VRM, Chipset, 2x GPU, 2x RAM, Raid Card) and 7 radiators. Two of the radiators are the Aquacomputer AMS and are fairly restrictive. I also think the 2x Aquagrafx 690 blocks are very restrictive, but I've never seen any formal testing done on them. If I convert my flowrate to liters per minute, I'm now getting....

High = 4,800 rpm = 1.2 gpm = 4.54 lpm
Low = 1,800 rpm = 0.5 gpm = 1.89 lpm

So I'm getting a little faster flow rate, but I also have 4 pumps instead of 2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Just saw how many views this thread has. Almost half a million. Just insane. The effort put forth is really reflected there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Half a million views = The most insane build ever.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tobiman*
> 
> Probably cost around $1000 for case accessories alone. Damn!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaukj0n3s*
> 
> What is the first rule of fight club


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tobiman*
> 
> Go big or go home?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No!! We don't talk about it!! or something like this...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tobiman*
> 
> Ah, note taken. Thanks for the heads up!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> MOD OF THE YEAR


Ha! The secret to getting a ton of views on your build log....is to take more than a year to finish your build.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Too noisy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 8 blocks right now (CPU, VRM, Chipset, 2x GPU, 2x RAM, Raid Card) and 7 radiators. Two of the radiators are the Aquacomputer AMS and are fairly restrictive. I also think the 2x Aquagrafx 690 blocks are very restrictive, but I've never seen any formal testing done on them. If I convert my flowrate to liters per minute, I'm now getting....
> 
> High = 4,800 rpm = 1.2 gpm = 4.54 lpm
> Low = 1,800 rpm = 0.5 gpm = 1.89 lpm
> 
> So I'm getting a little faster flow rate, but I also have 4 pumps instead of 2.
> 
> Ha! The secret to getting a ton of views on your build log....is to take more than a year to finish your build.


And keep it as off topic as possible


----------



## Electrocutor

CPU - Probably fairly restrictive
VRM - Usually pretty open
Chipset - Probably fairly restrictive
2x GPU - Already in parallel; 2xparallel is the same restriction as half of one
2x RAM - Usually pretty open
Raid Card - Unknown; I've nothing to base estimation on
AQ5 - Probably fairly restrictive
AMS Rads- Probably fairly restrictive
Other Rads - Usually pretty open

It would be nice if you could parallel anything that would be fairly restrictive except the CPU, but your layout only allows for some of that. Optimally, you'd want 50% of restriction between each set of pumps, but that too is difficult with layout.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> CPU - Probably fairly restrictive
> VRM - Usually pretty open
> Chipset - Probably fairly restrictive
> 2x GPU - Already in parallel; 2xparallel is the same restriction as half of one
> 2x RAM - Usually pretty open
> Raid Card - Unknown; I've nothing to base estimation on
> AQ5 - Probably fairly restrictive
> AMS Rads- Probably fairly restrictive
> Other Rads - Usually pretty open
> 
> It would be nice if you could parallel anything that would be fairly restrictive except the CPU, but your layout only allows for some of that. Optimally, you'd want 50% of restriction between each set of pumps, but that too is difficult with layout.


The CPU block from Mips tested extremely low for restriction vs other CPU blocks, but yes...probably fairly restrictive overall. And yes, my guess is that the chipset block is insanely restrictive. And although the block I'm using on the RAID card is fairly thick....the coolant has to do a tight little 180 degree turn...so I'm guessing it's fairly restrictive also. Although...it didn't slow down flow hardly at all when I installed it. Before and after flow rates were very close. The 2x GPU's are in parallel....but the blocks are massive on the 690's, and I'll bet these are quite restrictive. Especially since the only tests I could find on an Aquacomputer card (a GTX 480 I think?) showed it very restrictive.

The AMS rads are also running in parallel right now.

Although the flowrate appears to be more than adequate for reasonable temperatures...I'm still curious why I'm not getting a little more flow with 4 pumps running. If I had to take a guess on the worst offenders in the box, it would either be the 2 690 blocks, or the chipset block.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> And keep it as off topic as possible


You say that like it's a bad thing.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> You say that like it's a bad thing.


Not at all


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> And keep it as off topic as possible


Derick would be proud.


----------



## cpachris

I've finished the temperature test for the test run without RAM blocks hooked up. I'll describe briefly the results, or you can peruse the adjusted data in this post.

For the most part, none of the temperature readings changed much when moving from 1.1 gpm to 1.2 gpm. I guess that is just not enough of change in flowrate to impact temperatures. The one exception is the RAM temperature probe. Without the waterblocks, the temperature rose significantly. It went from a P95 fully loaded temperature of 32.8 degrees celcius, .....to 44.3 degrees celcius when the water was disconnected from the blocks. While that is more than a 11 degree increase, ....the RAM sticks remain at a very acceptable temperature. There is nothing alarming about 44.3 degrees....and they quickly drop back to around 29 degrees when computer is idling. Plus...they might even stay lower than 44.3 if I were to put back on the aluminum heat sinks that came with the RAM. So....I think I'd be fine either way I go with the RAM blocks.

I still have some charts I'm playing with....but in general I can summarize the results I'm seeing so far like this. Improving flow rate improves temperatures....up to a point. There are diminishing returns. But if you have extremely low flowrate (less than 0.5 gpm), then you actually might have more improvement in temps by increasing flowrate...than you will by increasing your fan speed.

It's also clear from my own data that the water/air delta is driven primarily by fan speed. Flowrate only plays a very small part in the water/air delta. But it's the opposite story when looking at the radiator in/out delta (difference between hot water in and cool water out). This measure is driven primarily by flowrate. Fan speed has a much smaller impact.

I'll have some charts done soon that illustrate my own data and help interpret it. Also, I'm ready to move on and replace the Mips VRM waterblock wiith the nateman_doo VRM block. I'm going to do it by itself first so that I can see the impact of just that block. Plus...I'm still unsure whether I'll be able to make the nateman_doo chipset block work.

More soon!


----------



## Rbby258

the copper block is a better heatsink than the small fins they originally came with


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> MOD OF THE YEAR


Not so much of a mod, but definitely build of year*.

*Or years.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've finished the temperature test for the test run without RAM blocks hooked up. I'll describe briefly the results, or you can peruse the adjusted data in this post.
> 
> For the most part, none of the temperature readings changed much when moving from 1.1 gpm to 1.2 gpm. I guess that is just not enough of change in flowrate to impact temperatures. The one exception is the RAM temperature probe. Without the waterblocks, the temperature rose significantly. It went from a P95 fully loaded temperature of 32.8 degrees celcius, .....to 44.3 degrees celcius when the water was disconnected from the blocks. While that is more than a 11 degree increase, ....the RAM sticks remain at a very acceptable temperature. There is nothing alarming about 44.3 degrees....and they quickly drop back to around 29 degrees when computer is idling. Plus...they might even stay lower than 44.3 if I were to put back on the aluminum heat sinks that came with the RAM. So....I think I'd be fine either way I go with the RAM blocks.
> 
> I still have some charts I'm playing with....but in general I can summarize the results I'm seeing so far like this. Improving flow rate improves temperatures....up to a point. There are diminishing returns. But if you have extremely low flowrate (less than 0.5 gpm), then you actually might have more improvement in temps by increasing flowrate...than you will by increasing your fan speed.
> 
> It's also clear from my own data that the water/air delta is driven primarily by fan speed. Flowrate only plays a very small part in the water/air delta. But it's the opposite story when looking at the radiator in/out delta (difference between hot water in and cool water out). This measure is driven primarily by flowrate. Fan speed has a much smaller impact.
> 
> I'll have some charts done soon that illustrate my own data and help interpret it. Also, I'm ready to move on and replace the Mips VRM waterblock wiith the nateman_doo VRM block. I'm going to do it by itself first so that I can see the impact of just that block. Plus...I'm still unsure whether I'll be able to


*make the nateman_doo chipset block work*

Say that 5 times QUICK !


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> CPU - Probably fairly restrictive
> VRM - Usually pretty open
> Chipset - Probably fairly restrictive
> 2x GPU - Already in parallel; 2xparallel is the same restriction as half of one
> 2x RAM - Usually pretty open
> Raid Card - Unknown; I've nothing to base estimation on
> AQ5 - Probably fairly restrictive
> AMS Rads- Probably fairly restrictive
> Other Rads - Usually pretty open
> 
> It would be nice if you could parallel anything that would be fairly restrictive except the CPU, but your layout only allows for some of that. Optimally, you'd want 50% of restriction between each set of pumps, but that too is difficult with layout.


AQ5 blocks have very little effect on flow. I have two in my system.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Not so much of a mod, but definitely build of year*.
> 
> *Or years.


Strictly speaking painting is modifying so it cold be classed as mod of the year


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> it's the opposite story when looking at the radiator in/out delta (difference between hot water in and cool water out). This measure is driven primarily by flowrate.


This is slightly odd, you'd assume the longer the water spent in the rad, the more heat it would dissipate. I guess it takes a minimum flow rate to produce enough turbulent flow in the rad pipes to get the heat conducted into the rad. It does kind of suggest it might be best to have the rads in series for maximum flow.

That said, I can't see it being an important measurement, since performance really comes down to water/air delta rather that temperature drop across the rads, but it's interesting nonetheless.

Ps. I just thought, and I didn't actually look at the figures in enough detail to see if there's any evidence for this, but it could be a red herring - all else being equal, the rads will be more efficient when the water is hotter, so higher flow might actually be causing more turbulence in the waterblocks leading to more heat being in the water in the first place, which makes it seem that the rads work better at a higher flow, when actually it's really that higher flow makes the waterblocks work better and consequently the rads have hotter water to work with which will more readily give it's energy up to the air.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I've finished the temperature test for the test run without RAM blocks hooked up. I'll describe briefly the results, or you can peruse the adjusted data in this post.
> 
> For the most part, none of the temperature readings changed much when moving from 1.1 gpm to 1.2 gpm. I guess that is just not enough of change in flowrate to impact temperatures. The one exception is the RAM temperature probe. Without the waterblocks, the temperature rose significantly. It went from a P95 fully loaded temperature of 32.8 degrees celcius, .....to 44.3 degrees celcius when the water was disconnected from the blocks. While that is more than a 11 degree increase, ....the RAM sticks remain at a very acceptable temperature. There is nothing alarming about 44.3 degrees....and they quickly drop back to around 29 degrees when computer is idling. Plus...they might even stay lower than 44.3 if I were to put back on the aluminum heat sinks that came with the RAM. So....I think I'd be fine either way I go with the RAM blocks.
> 
> I still have some charts I'm playing with....but in general I can summarize the results I'm seeing so far like this. Improving flow rate improves temperatures....up to a point. There are diminishing returns. But if you have extremely low flowrate (less than 0.5 gpm), then you actually might have more improvement in temps by increasing flowrate...than you will by increasing your fan speed.
> 
> It's also clear from my own data that the water/air delta is driven primarily by fan speed. Flowrate only plays a very small part in the water/air delta. But it's the opposite story when looking at the radiator in/out delta (difference between hot water in and cool water out). This measure is driven primarily by flowrate. Fan speed has a much smaller impact.
> 
> I'll have some charts done soon that illustrate my own data and help interpret it. Also, I'm ready to move on and replace the Mips VRM waterblock wiith the nateman_doo VRM block. I'm going to do it by itself first so that I can see the impact of just that block. Plus...I'm still unsure whether I'll be able to make the nateman_doo chipset block work.
> 
> More soon!


Data sets look good Chris, keep rocking brother!


----------



## Electrocutor

Just to make sure: you've kept your valve 100% closed for all test data, right?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BorisTheSpider*
> 
> This is slightly odd, you'd assume the longer the water spent in the rad, the more heat it would dissipate. I guess it takes a minimum flow rate to produce enough turbulent flow in the rad pipes to get the heat conducted into the rad. It does kind of suggest it might be best to have the rads in series for maximum flow.
> 
> That said, I can't see it being an important measurement, since performance really comes down to water/air delta rather that temperature drop across the rads, but it's interesting nonetheless.
> 
> Ps. I just thought, and I didn't actually look at the figures in enough detail to see if there's any evidence for this, but it could be a red herring - all else being equal, the rads will be more efficient when the water is hotter, so higher flow might actually be causing more turbulence in the waterblocks leading to more heat being in the water in the first place, which makes it seem that the rads work better at a higher flow, when actually it's really that higher flow makes the waterblocks work better and consequently the rads have hotter water to work with which will more readily give it's energy up to the air.


Boris...let me clarify my initial comments, because I think we may not be on the same page. When I said that the flowrate was the primary driver for the radiator delta....I meant that the radiator delta got smaller as flow rate was increased, and got larger as flowrate was decreased. The movement for the radiator delta was more significant for changes in flowrate than for changes in fan speed. I'm not sure I'm following the comment regarding "This is slightly odd, you'd assume the longer the water spent in the rad, the more heat it would dissipate". In general....as my flowrate is increased....the component temperatures come down....and the rad delta comes down also. And the rad delta is coming down primarily because of the "hot" or "Rad-in" temperature is decreasing as flowrate is increased. Within a reasonable margin of error....the "cold" water or "rad-out" is just about the same at any flow rate....it is my "hot" or "rad-in" that is changing. I guess I would argue that the radiators ARE dissipating more heat as flowrate decreases and the rad delta increases....because they return a higher rad-in temp back to the same rad-out temp no matter what the flow rate (again, within a reasonable margin of error).

Some of this might be because of the very large amount of radiator capacity I have. The component out water temp (or rad-in) gets hotter as flow rate decreases....I'm guessing just because it spends more time in the waterblock portion of the loop. Has longer to heat up before hitting the radiator portion of the loop. But the radiators are returning it back to the same temp regardless of the flow rate (when holding fan speed the same).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Data sets look good Chris, keep rocking brother!


Thanks Tony! This part of the build log is interesting to me . It may not apply to everybody and all systems...but hopefully it will help someone.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Just to make sure: you've kept your valve 100% closed for all test data, right?


Yep. So far, closed for all testing. I might add some test scenarios where I open the valve back up and see what impact it has on temps and delta. It would be interesting to see the net impact. Based on what I think I know right now about my system, I would expect the following:

- flowrate through the waterblocks would decrease....and flowrate through the radiator loop would increase. The radiator portion of the loop is less restrictive, so some flow would be diverted to make a second pass through the radiators without returning to the waterblock portion of the loop

- the slower flowrate through the waterblock portion of the loop, would increase the rad-in temp....and increase the rad delta.

- the slower flowrate through the waterblock portion of the loop would increase component temperatures (not as effective at removing heat from components)

- the faster flowrate through the radiators wouldn't have a large impact on rad-out temps....because of how much radiator capacity I have.

So...I'm thinking it would be a net negative on component temperatures. What would be much more interesting....is to use this valve idea in a system that had just 120.4 or so of radiator space. With less radiator space...the coolant temp is going to climb much higher than it does in my system....and the recirculation valve would be effective at lowering the coolant temp. It would come down to whether the decrease coolant temp is enough to offset the slower flow through the waterblocks. I think it might help in some systems. But I don't think it will in mine.


----------



## cpachris

Picture time!

I've got the nateman_doo blocks installed, and I took some picures along the way.

First..I took out the motherboard tray, and stripped the board of the memory, GPU's, Raid card, and most of the loop. All that is left is the Mips VRM block and CPU block. It's been a long time since my board has been this empty....



This is a close up of the the Mips block. Notice how the block doesn't cover the entire VRM section. There will be a big difference in the components that the nateman_doo VRM block covers here.



These next two pictures are the back of the motherboard, and shows how the Mips block is connected. This copper bracket covers 12 things (I don't know if these are the DrMOS chips or the chokes). Since this copper is not connected in anyway to the copper that has the water running through it....I don't know if this is effective or not in cooling these items. As you will see soon, the nateman_doo block does not include anyhing that covers these items. Point to Mips for some attempt at cooling of these items on the back. Score: Mips 1, nateman_doo 0.





Now back to the front of the board, and I've taken the block off. See how there are 2x rows of 12 items (again...not sure if DrMOS or chokes)? Look back at the second picture...



Spoiler: The Second Picture







and you'll see how the bottom row of these is sticking out from this block. It does not cover them all. The nateman_doo block DOES cover all of these items on the front of the board. Point for nateman_doo for more coverage of the front items on the board. Score: nateman_doo 1, Mips 1.



Since I've got the Mips block removed now...this is a good time to take some close-ups to compare the Mips block with the nateman_doo block.

In the picture below, the Mips block is on the left, and the nateman_doo block is on the right. You will notice right away the size difference. The nateman_doo block is enormous compared to the Mips block. It is also easy to see in this picture the difference in mounting approaches. The Mips block uses only two screws that are both on top corners of the block. Since there is only screws on two corners....there was always a little wiggle in this block. It is not secured on the bottom corners. Never liked this.

On the other hand, the nateman_doo block has screws in all four corners. The bottom two corners utilize the CPU mounting bracket screws. This holds it securely to the board. No wiggle. nateman_doo block wins the contest for ease and security of mounting the block. Score: nateman_doo 2, Mips 1.



In this picture, the nateman_doo block is on the top....Mips on the bottom. Again, you'll notice a massive difference in the size of these blocks. This picture also makes it easier to see the visual differences. I like how the nateman_doo block has black screws that blend right into the delrin top....instead of the shiny silver screws used on the Mips block. Point for nateman_doo for the screws. Score: nateman_doo 3, Mips 1



Piggy back time! Just to futher show the size difference in these blocks.



These next 3 pictures show the inside of the blocks.

First both blocks....side by side. Mips on the left....nateman_doo on the right.



...and now a closeup of the Mips block.....



....and a closeup of the nateman_doo block.


Now go back and look closely at the pictures above. Another big design difference is obvious here. The coolant channel is cut out of the black delrin top for the Mips block....but is cut-out of the copper for the nateman_doo block. And the difference in the depth of the channel is enormous. Th nateman_doo block is at least 50% deeper than the Mips block for the water channel. The Mips block has so little space in between where the fitting threads end and the copper plate begins....that I would be surprised if my flowrate doesn't increase some when swapping out these blocks. The nateman_doo block has a much more spacious water channel. Deeper and wider openings where the inlet and outlet are....and wider all the way across the block. Add to that the fact that the walls of the channel are also copper for the nateman_doo block....but are delrin for the Mips blocks....and I've got to image that more heat can be conducted by the huge hunk of copper in the nateman_doo block. Point to nateman_doo for deeper/wider copper channel. Score: nateman_doo 4, Mips 1.

Now...lets put the nateman_doo block on the board. I cut and placed some new thermal pad material. I used 1.5 mm for the top row of items...and 1.0 mm for the 2nd and 3rd row of items. This seemed to give the block the best contact across all three rows. I'm trying out some of the Fujipoly Ultra Extreme thermal pad.



While I had the board this stripped down, I decided I'd go ahead and reapply the thermal paste for the CPU block. I'll be trying some Indigo Extreme in my final temperature test....but for now... I used my PK-1. Here is a shot of the old paste before I cleaned it up. Looks like the spread was decent and good contact was made. Lets hope this fresh application does well also.



Installed! Notice the two CPU block screws being utilized in a dual capacity now, and holding the bottom two corners of the VRM block. Nice.



And with the top back on the VRM block....




...and now with all the other items back on the board.



I've got everything back in and I'm doing a leak test right now. If all goes well I'll have it fired back up and running this evening. I can't wait to see if this block impacts temperatures and/or flow rate. More soon!


----------



## wthenshaw

Such a massive difference between two similar looking blocks!


----------



## Citra

Using the CPU block screws. That's pretty smart.


----------



## cpachris

Yep. But I guess all the differences and "scores" in the world won't matter if it doesn't cool effectively. I'm about 2 hours into my leak test with nothing showing up so far. I'll probably try and fire it back up in another hour or so. It's always a little nerve wracking to fire it back up after a complete tear down. Always wondering if I got everything back right. The "beep" at post is always so sweet after a complete tear down.


----------



## wthenshaw

well at least it covers the rest of the vrms,


----------



## cpachris

Up and running! Initial flow rate shows increase from 1.2 gpm to 1.25 gpm. I'll finish temp tests tonight and we'll see how it does in that area.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Up and running! Initial flow rate shows increase from 1.2 gpm to 1.25 gpm. I'll finish temp tests tonight and we'll see how it does in that area.


Wow I just caught up 500 posts. Nice work man I've watch this from the beginning. I really like the new look with the black and copper fittings.


----------



## nateman_doo

Sorry for going off the grid for so long. I forgot to mention, the VRM block was designed to use the CPU screws as well, but with so many different CPU blocks out there I wasn't sure what hardware to include. If you take a small spring (think ball point pen) and thread it down on your CPU screws, it will push the other half of the VRM block down on that smallest set of components closest to the CPU.

I see I have lots of the thread to catch up on.

Let me know what kind of changes can be made since there seems to be some issues with the CPU screws blocking the inlet. Collectively we can think of some sort of solution.


----------



## cpachris

I finished running the temperature tests with the nateman_doo VRM block. You can peruse all the measurements in this post, but I'll summarize them briefly here. Basically, the nateman_doo block must be less restrictive, because my overall flowrate increased from 1.2 gpm to 1.25 gpm when I have the pumps at full speed. However, there were no real differences in temperatures for the motherboard, or any other component.

So...my final conclusion is that both the Mips block and the nateman_doo block are excellent and are equal performers. I'm going to stick with the nateman_doo block just because I like the mounting system better. I probably will be selling the Mips VRM block soon. If anyone is interested you can PM me. I probably will sell my spare AE11 board, with waterblocks, together as one package.

Now...on to the chipset block. While I was installing the VRM block...I tried to visualize how the chipset block might fit....and I really think it's going to be tough to do. Any straight run out of the port on the left runs right into the CPU screw. Most angled fittings extend too far out to make the turn before hitting the screw. There is no room for a compression fitting. The only hope is the smallest angled fitting possible...and hope for the best. I have some of the short little stubby 90 degree angled fittings from Bitspower, and they are the shortest ones I have. I'm going to go to the trouble of removing the old block and trying this one....to see if it can work. But to be honest....I don't think there is anyway to install this block the way its designed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Sorry for going off the grid for so long. Let me know what kind of changes can be made since there seems to be some issues with the CPU screws blocking the inlet. Collectively we can think of some sort of solution.


I'll take some pictures when I attempt to install it....and maybe those will help. But I really don't think there is anyway to make it work with the existing tops. Ironically, it's the collective thinking (the angled tops) that are making the blocks uninstallable. And while I hope that a fix or solution can be made...I don't think many of us could wait another 6 months. Especially after waiting so long for the first version....that may be uninstallable. We can discuss after my installation attempt and pictures.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I forgot to mention, the VRM block was designed to use the CPU screws as well, but with so many different CPU blocks out there I wasn't sure what hardware to include. If you take a small spring (think ball point pen) and thread it down on your CPU screws, it will push the other half of the VRM block down on that smallest set of components closest to the CPU.


It seems to be making decent contact, but I'll keep the spring idea in mind to try. Regardless, I should put down some thermal pad on that bottom row of components.


----------



## nateman_doo

making replacement tops won't take anything more then a few days. I can do the identical tops as the mips does, you just have to tell me where you want the in/out. The plane simple flat top was the original idea. A simple flat piece of delrin (or copper) can be made much easier then the beveled tops. Once I make a replacement top.. believe it or not, there will be next to NO restriction. You see how deep the block channels are, so there is nothing in the way if I use similar hole placement as the mips block.

It will be the first thing I do when I finally make it down in my basement.


----------



## wisecrack

I'm in total awe of this build.

It was quite epic for me reading through this build log and I must admit it kept me reading through my entire 12 hour night shift.

Thanks for keeping me entertained!


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> making replacement tops won't take anything more then a few days. I can do the identical tops as the mips does, you just have to tell me where you want the in/out. The plane simple flat top was the original idea. A simple flat piece of delrin (or copper) can be made much easier then the beveled tops. Once I make a replacement top.. believe it or not, there will be next to NO restriction. You see how deep the block channels are, so there is nothing in the way if I use similar hole placement as the mips block.
> 
> It will be the first thing I do when I finally make it down in my basement.


Glad to see your are back. From the measurements I took when I made my attempt at installing your block, I can see only 2 possible solutions to the issue with the o-ring near the CPU block. That O-ring needs to be moved a little more that 1/8 inch away from where the CPU screw is in order to get a fitting to be able to be installed. Either that, or forget the beveled edge top and make a new top with the o-rings in a similar location to where the MIPS block placed them. Let me know what your thoughts are on this. When Cpachris makes his install attempt, he might be able to offer other suggestions. But those are the only ones I'm seeing at present.


----------



## cpachris

I tried...but was unable to get the nateman_doo chipset block installed. Exact same issue that Vvt1978 had. Even my shortest stubby 90 degree angle from Bitspower was too tall to not interfere with the lower right CPU screw.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> From the measurements I took when I made my attempt at installing your block, I can see only 2 possible solutions to the issue with the o-ring near the CPU block. That O-ring needs to be moved a little more that 1/8 inch away from where the CPU screw is in order to get a fitting to be able to be installed. Either that, or forget the beveled edge top and make a new top with the o-rings in a similar location to where the MIPS block placed them. Let me know what your thoughts are on this. When Cpachris makes his install attempt, he might be able to offer other suggestions. But those are the only ones I'm seeing at present.


Vvt1978...here are my additional thoughts on your two proposals.

1) Your first solution doesn't seem possible to me. I think it would have to be more than 1/8" to the left in order to have enough room to work. But....moving the left inlet any amount to the left of where it is currently positioned....looks like it would take it outside of the channel in the copper block. So you wouldn't be just replacing the top cover...you would have to have a new bottom copper section also...which would basically be starting over. Undesirable.

2) Yes....similar inlets/outlets to the where the Mips blocks have them should work fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> making replacement tops won't take anything more then a few days. I can do the identical tops as the mips does, you just have to tell me where you want the in/out. The plane simple flat top was the original idea. A simple flat piece of delrin (or copper) can be made much easier then the beveled tops. Once I make a replacement top.. believe it or not, there will be next to NO restriction. You see how deep the block channels are, so there is nothing in the way if I use similar hole placement as the mips block.
> 
> It will be the first thing I do when I finally make it down in my basement.


Here are my thoughts nateman_doo. I think new tops are going to be required by anyone who purchased the blocks. I don't see anyway that the inlet on the left can be used...because any size fitting or tubing gets angled right into the CPU screw on the lower right. The problem is not necessarily the placement of the inlet/outlet.....it is the fact that it is angled into the CPU screw. In order to keep these inlet/outlet positions there...the only thing that needs to be done is NOT to have a beveled angle underneath the inlet/outlet. If the inlet/outlet opening is straight...and the fitting/tubing comes out at a 90 degree angle from the board...it will not have any interference.

However, the beveled angle is providing additional clearance underneath the inlet/outlet. There would not be much clearance if you lowered the raised side of the beveled edge, in order to make it flat. Instead....I think you should raise the lowered side of the beveled edge. So it ill still be flat on top...but raised up to where the high end of the previous beveled edge was. That would give the coolant some room to get into the block before it meets the copper channel. Should greatly improve flowrate. Does that make sense?

But as I'm thinking about placement of the current inlet/outlets vs where the Mips inlets/outlets are located....I'm struck with the idea...why not have both? Just like most pump tops, or GPU blocks, or reservoirs......why not have multiple options for the inlets/outlets? Users will just plug up the ones they don't intend to use with a slim stop fitting. This will give users the ultimate in flexibility in designing their loop. The only people that wouldn't like this option would be those who are running 4 video cards on air coolers. A stop fittings on an inlet/outlet using the Mips placements...might interfere ever so slightly with the air cooler on the card in slot #3. But honestly...who would ever be watercooling their motherboard and leaving 4 video cards on air?

Anyway...I'll take you up on your replacement top offer. While I'm extremely skeptical of the "few days" timeline, I'll happily report that I was wrong if I turn out to be. Here are my ideas for the replacement top...in descending order of how much I prefer them.

Option 1) Replacement top that adds inlets/outlets where the Mips block located them, for a total of four openings on the top. The location of the existing openings stays the same, but the beveled edge becomes flat and raised to the highest level of the existing bevel.

Option 2) Same as 1), but existing beveled edge gets lowered instead of raised. I'm just offering this because I don't know how much additional work option 1) is. It would clearly be better if the lower edge were raised....but if that takes too much....you could lower the raised edge. Less desirable.

Option 3) Replacement top with only two openings....in the location of the Mips block openings.


----------



## Truedeal

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Picture time!






Chris keeping a tissue to absorb his sobs from the beauty.


----------



## JambonJovi

That PC makes me want to be a better man.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I tried...but was unable to get the nateman_doo chipset block installed. Exact same issue that Vvt1978 had. Even my shortest stubby 90 degree angle from Bitspower was too tall to not interfere with the lower right CPU screw.
> Vvt1978...here are my additional thoughts on your two proposals.
> 
> 1) Your first solution doesn't seem possible to me. I think it would have to be more than 1/8" to the left in order to have enough room to work. But....moving the left inlet any amount to the left of where it is currently positioned....looks like it would take it outside of the channel in the copper block. So you wouldn't be just replacing the top cover...you would have to have a new bottom copper section also...which would basically be starting over. Undesirable.


If I'm understanding your meaning correctly, I think you misunderstood what I was suggesting. To make it clear, lets say that the motherboard is oriented so that the I/O ports are on the left, the SATA ports are on the right, the VRM block is on the top and the PCIe slots are on the bottom. I wasn't thinking of moving the o-ring to the left (closer to the I/O ports). My suggestion was of moving it a little more than 1/8 inch down (away from the cpu screw area and closer to the PCIe slot). Same area left-to-right. Just a little further down closer to the PCIe slots. That area still falls within the current copper block's water channel. And if you look at the o-ring on the other beveled edge (the one positioned near the BIOS chip/USB3.0 headers), you'll notice that it's a lot further down (towards the PCIe slots) than the one that's causing issues with the CPU mounting screw. So it shouldn't be too hard for nateman_doo to implement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 2) Yes....similar inlets/outlets to the where the Mips blocks have them should work fine.
> Here are my thoughts nateman_doo. I think new tops are going to be required by anyone who purchased the blocks. I don't see anyway that the inlet on the left can be used...because any size fitting or tubing gets angled right into the CPU screw on the lower right. The problem is not necessarily the placement of the inlet/outlet.....it is the fact that it is angled into the CPU screw. In order to keep these inlet/outlet positions there...the only thing that needs to be done is NOT to have a beveled angle underneath the inlet/outlet. If the inlet/outlet opening is straight...and the fitting/tubing comes out at a 90 degree angle from the board...it will not have any interference.


That was my first thought on it. If the angle for the beveled edge is eliminated, I think I could find more fittings which would work. But I think the o-ring would still have to be moved a little closer to the PCIe slots to work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> However, the beveled angle is providing additional clearance underneath the inlet/outlet. There would not be much clearance if you lowered the raised side of the beveled edge, in order to make it flat. Instead....I think you should raise the lowered side of the beveled edge. So it ill still be flat on top...but raised up to where the high end of the previous beveled edge was. That would give the coolant some room to get into the block before it meets the copper channel. Should greatly improve flowrate. Does that make sense?
> 
> But as I'm thinking about placement of the current inlet/outlets vs where the Mips inlets/outlets are located....I'm struck with the idea...why not have both? Just like most pump tops, or GPU blocks, or reservoirs......why not have multiple options for the inlets/outlets? Users will just plug up the ones they don't intend to use with a slim stop fitting. This will give users the ultimate in flexibility in designing their loop. The only people that wouldn't like this option would be those who are running 4 video cards on air coolers. A stop fittings on an inlet/outlet using the Mips placements...might interfere ever so slightly with the air cooler on the card in slot #3. But honestly...who would ever be watercooling their motherboard and leaving 4 video cards on air?


I love this idea. It gives you some choices with regards to placement of fittings. Choices are always good. So long as the extra holes don't have any leak issues. Which from the way I've seen the blocks being designed, I don't think will be a problem for nateman_doo!

As for my own preference for a new delrin top, it's a little different that cpachris's. My preference order would be:
1) 4 o-ring inlets. 2 of them in similar locations to the MIPS block, 1 where it's currently located near the BIOS chip/USB3.0 headers & the last o-ring near it's current location, but moved down slightly more than 1/8 inch away from the CPU mounting screw & closer to the PCIe slots. The last 2 o-rings would be on raised flat areas (like cpachris described above).

This choice offers the most options in terms of fitting positions.

2) Same as above keeping the beveled edges

3) No beveled edges with the o-ring inlets with the MIPS block positions


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> I wasn't thinking of moving the o-ring to the left (closer to the I/O ports). My suggestion was of moving it a little more than 1/8 inch down (away from the cpu screw area and closer to the PCIe slot). That area still falls within the current copper block's water channel. If the angle for the beveled edge is eliminated, I think I could find more fittings which would work.


Vvt1978....yes, I was misunderstanding which direction you were suggesting to move the inlet. I understand now, and agree that it would not require a new bottom if you are suggesting to slide it down instead of to the left (and we are orienting the motherboard the same way







) It wouldn't take much downward movement to create enough space for the fitting...but there really isn't much free space to move it down. It already would make a backplate challenging where it is now.

Choices would be best. Alas, I think nateman_doo is going to just move the inlet/outlet to where the Mips inlet/outlets are located. At least that is the vibe I got from our emails. I'll keep everyone posted on whether we have a working nateman_doo chipset block at some point, but I'm going to move forward with other remaining items and not wait on it. I'll be the first to apologize for my lack of faith and congratulate him if we ever get this project done....but at this point I'm extremely skeptical of this taking "a few days". But....I'd love to be wrong!


----------



## lemniscate

cpachris, how do you find the noiseblocker fans? which one do you like better, blacksilentpro or multiframe?


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Vvt1978....yes, I was misunderstanding which direction you were suggesting to move the inlet. I understand now, and agree that it would not require a new bottom if you are suggesting to slide it down instead of to the left (and we are orienting the motherboard the same way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) It wouldn't take much downward movement to create enough space for the fitting...but there really isn't much free space to move it down. It already would make a backplate challenging where it is now.


When I took my measurements, it looked as if the amount of clearance from the beveled edge to where the top edge of my graphics card was about 1/8 inch. And he'd only need to move the O-ring near the CPU screw down by a little more than that. The other O-ring (near the USB3.0 headers) is a lot further down to begin with. So if there wasn't room to move it down with the current positioning of the beveled edge, then he could move the edge a little more towards the first graphics card slot to give him a little more space to move the O-ring. Anyway, that's what it looks like for my block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Choices would be best.


I agree.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Chris keeping a tissue to absorb his sobs from the beauty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> That PC makes me want to be a better man.


You guys crack me up. Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> cpachris, how do you find the noiseblocker fans? which one do you like better, blacksilentpro or multiframe?


The multi-frame are leagues ahead of the blacksilent Pro's. I have both...and there is no comparison. Get the multi-frame's.


----------



## iBored

Question! I'm thinking of getting noiseblocker fans too. Did you just use a plastic spray paint like krylon? or was there prep work like sanding the blades?

Also, are the blades on the pl2 the same as the multiframes?


----------



## lemniscate

thanks for the advice.. I was considering the e-loops too. have you ever had one?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Question! I'm thinking of getting noiseblocker fans too. Did you just use a plastic spray paint like krylon? or was there prep work like sanding the blades?
> 
> Also, are the blades on the pl2 the same as the multiframes?


You can see my painting process documented in this post. But to answer your question directly....I didn't sand the blades before or between coats...but that may have worked well also. I did use a plastic primer as a light basecoat, before starting with my colors. I used Rust-o-leum paint, and it was not made for plastics. The reason I used this paint is I was able to recreate my crimson red color scheme using two different colors of their paint combined. The colors in the "for plastics" was more limited, and I would not have been able to make the color was after. That is why I used the plastic primer first...and then the paint. But...if you can find a color you are happy with in the paint made for plastics, that would be even easier.

Blades look similar on the PL2 and multi-frames. The motor and casing and frame do not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> thanks for the advice.. I was considering the e-loops too. have you ever had one?


Yes. They were not out when I made my initial fan selection, but I have considered them for future upgrades. I sponsored a round of fan testing with Martin and included he eLoops in the test. You can see the results of the testing here. They tested well, but did not push the GT-AP15's off their perch.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yes. They were not out when I made my initial fan selection, but I have considered them for future upgrades. I sponsored a round of fan testing with Martin and included he eLoops in the test. You can see the results of the testing here. They tested well, but did not push the GT-AP15's off their perch.


thanks, +rep.

I've seen martin's reviews, and it seems like the GTs are still at the top. but I just can't bring myself to like how it looks...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> thanks, +rep.
> 
> I've seen martin's reviews, and it seems like the GTs are still at the top. but I just can't bring myself to like how it looks...


Give em' a coat of paint in the colors of your build...and they will look fantastic. I'm not a fan of the black/grey they come in either...but you can make them look great!


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Give em' a coat of paint in the colors of your build...and they will look fantastic. I'm not a fan of the black/grey they come in either...but you can make them look great!


haha actually I've read some forum posts about why not to paint fans (something like the extra weight and thickness might affect the aerodynamics or so). but I think if you use proper paint (not wall paint, for example), that shouldn't be a problem... I have some experience in painting model kits, and we modelers do use non-model paints occasionally to reduce cost, and I found out that some cheap paints are rather thick compared to more expensive ones. though too bad, my main problem with GTs is the shape...









anyway, thanks for the discussion. it might be a while before I can actually start water cooling.. still can't afford/justify spending thousands on a caselabs case and those water cooling gears.


----------



## Wibble360

If you spray paint it evenly with multiple thin coats you shouldn't unbalance the blades enough to cause audible vibration. I don't this Chris had a problem with this.

You can do WC on the cheap! An old case off eBay, maybe an Antec 300, and a simple WC setup with a DC-LT pump shouldn't cost too much but yeah, it does seem to cost more than you initially think!


----------



## nateman_doo

What is the diameter of the connections you wish to use? I have the location along the Y plane of where the connectors need to go, but I have to take into account your video waterblocks and such. (or just tell me where the locations MIPS uses?)


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> What is the diameter of the connections you wish to use? I have the location along the Y plane of where the connectors need to go, but I have to take into account your video waterblocks and such. (or just tell me where the locations MIPS uses?)


???? I'm unclear what you are asking. Diameter of the connections?

If you have the location on the Y-plane, that is the critical one. Must be situated so that it doesn't interfere with cards in slots 1 and 3.

The location on the x-plane is less critical. But I don't even know if that is what you are asking.


----------



## nateman_doo

The external connection diameter. Like the external diameter of a bitspower fitting is about 3/4" and then the clamp. I want to have it as close to the 3rd slot as possible.


----------



## cpachris

If you rotate the block sideways like in your diagram, then it's the x-plane that is critical. I was responding as if the block were installed on a normal oriented motherboard.

For diameter...I'm using Bitspower extender fittings that are 18mm in diameter. With the mips block, don't think I could put bitspower compression fittings in there. Too tight. It would touch one of the cards.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> The external connection diameter. Like the external diameter of a bitspower fitting is about 3/4" and then the clamp. I want to have it as close to the 3rd slot as possible.


I'm planning on using the Bitspower triple rotary compression fittings attached to the block. The external diameter of those fittings, as cpachris said, are a little under 18 mm. At least, the part that would connect with the block. The other part can be rotated in such a way as not to interfere with any of the graphics cards in any direction needed.

Using the orientation you have in your diagram, I previously suggested that the top inlet needs to be moved by at least 1/8 inch (or 3.175 mm) to the left in order to accommodate that type of fitting. The bottom inlet would not need adjusting. And using an extender, you don't need to worry about direct compression fitting clearance or the clearance needed for a clamp.

If you are trying to get inlet positions similar to the MIPS block, cpachris would be able to direct you better. But I'd imagine that enough clearance would be needed to accommodate an 18 mm external diameter fitting between PCIe slots 1 & 3. However, most people with dual GPUs will be using slots 1 & 5 for the graphics cards. So if you were trying to err on the side of caution, the inlet should be closer to slot 3 than slot 1.

Those are my thoughts anyway.


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> I'm planning on using the Bitspower triple rotary compression fittings attached to the block. The external diameter of those fittings, as cpachris said, are a little under 18 mm. At least, the part that would connect with the block. The other part can be rotated in such a way as not to interfere with any of the graphics cards in any direction needed.
> 
> Using the orientation you have in your diagram, I previously suggested that the top inlet needs to be moved by at least 1/8 inch (or 3.175 mm) to the left in order to accommodate that type of fitting. The bottom inlet would not need adjusting. And using an extender, you don't need to worry about direct compression fitting clearance or the clearance needed for a clamp.
> 
> If you are trying to get inlet positions similar to the MIPS block, cpachris would be able to direct you better. But I'd imagine that enough clearance would be needed to accommodate an 18 mm external diameter fitting between PCIe slots 1 & 3. However, most people with dual GPUs will be using slots 1 & 5 for the graphics cards. So if you were trying to err on the side of caution, the inlet should be closer to slot 3 than slot 1.
> 
> Those are my thoughts anyway.


Which way do you suggest the top be moved? As shown in the picture, up.. or down.


----------



## nateman_doo

here is a dumb question, did you guys try SLI connectors? They were super stubby.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> here is a dumb question, did you guys try SLI connectors? They were super stubby.


I use them in my build. "Bitspower ones". I use them not to connect the cards but for spaces where you need something adjustable.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> The external connection diameter. Like the external diameter of a bitspower fitting is about 3/4" and then the clamp. I want to have it as close to the 3rd slot as possible.


may I know what this is? looks like some waterblock, but for what? thanks..


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> may I know what this is? looks like some waterblock, but for what? thanks..


It's a custom waterblock for the chipset of the Asrock Extreme 11 X79.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> making replacement tops won't take anything more then a few days.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> While I'm extremely skeptical of the "few days" timeline, I'll happily report that I was wrong if I turn out to be.


I wasn't.









Are you close to finishing up? I've got two people interested in my Mips blocks. Can't really do anything with them until I get the replacement top.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> It's a custom waterblock for the chipset of the Asrock Extreme 11 X79.


I see, thanks...


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I wasn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you close to finishing up? I've got two people interested in my Mips blocks. Can't really do anything with them until I get the replacement top.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I wasn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you close to finishing up? I've got two people interested in my Mips blocks. Can't really do anything with them until I get the replacement top.


I just finished testing my new CNC machine. Works as it should.

Since this new machine can accommodate 4 - 9 blocks at a time (most likely 4) i am going to prepare the machine to do replacement tops first. I am going to abandon the beveled top idea and just go with the holes i pictured. i just wish i had the 690 laying around with the backplate that i could use to verify, but i have other cards.

here are 2 videos of the machine.


----------



## Virtue423

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I just finished testing my new CNC machine. Works as it should.
> 
> Since this new machine can accommodate 4 - 9 blocks at a time (most likely 4) i am going to prepare the machine to do replacement tops first. I am going to abandon the beveled top idea and just go with the holes i pictured. i just wish i had the 690 laying around with the backplate that i could use to verify, but i have other cards.
> 
> here are 2 videos of the machine.


WOW you made the CNC from scratch super impressed how much did it cost you


----------



## nateman_doo

Thousands...


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Which way do you suggest the top be moved? As shown in the picture, up.. or down.


I was suggesting moving the inlet hole in the delrin top that when mounted would be close to the CPU mounting screws a little bit more than 1/8 inch towards where the 1st PCIe slot would be. I wasn't suggesting of moving the whole top. In your diagram, that would be moving it to the left.



To illustrate, the red circle I drew over your diagram represents the current inlet hole position. The blue circle drawn represents the new position it would need to be in to accommodate an extender fitting. The relative positions between the 2 circles (old & new) should be a little more than 1/8 inch. I hope that clears things up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> here is a dumb question, did you guys try SLI connectors? They were super stubby.


Not even SLI connectors would work in that area. If you look at the pictures of my mounting attempt I posted here & emailed you previously, the edge of the screw mounting plate for my CPU block is almost right at the edge of the inlet hole in its current location. You would need at least 1/8 inch clearance from the current position away from that mounting plate to be able to screw in even an SLI connector or a fitting extender into that area.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I just finished testing my new CNC machine. Works as it should.
> 
> Since this new machine can accommodate 4 - 9 blocks at a time (most likely 4) i am going to prepare the machine to do replacement tops first. I am going to abandon the beveled top idea and just go with the holes i pictured. i just wish i had the 690 laying around with the backplate that i could use to verify, but i have other cards.


If you are abandoning the beveled edge, then does that eliminate the possibility of inlet holes before the 1st PCIe slot (in your diagram, that would be to the right of where the 1st PCIe slot is)? If so, then you'd have to use a position similar to the MIPS block.

As for my own preference, if there is any possible way to adjust the original positioning of the inlet holes but keep their relative position to the 1st PCIe slot, I'd rather try it that way. For me, I use QDCs before & after the GPU area of the loop to make it easier to remove all the GPUs as one unit when I need to do maintenance on the motherboard (CPU -> QDC -> GPU blocks -> QDC ->reservoir/pump/radiators). Unless I drastically redesign my current loop, using inlet hole positioning similar to the MIPS block would make using QDCs for that purpose unfeasible because I'd have to run the loop with CPU -> GPU1 -> your chipset block -> GPU2 -> rest of loop. If you can make the current relative inlet positioning work, I could keep the GPU loop pure using an SLI connectors instead and still use QDCs before & after the GPU area of the loop.

Let me know what you think. Thanks.


----------



## nateman_doo

The new hole you have in blue would not work because as the tap goes in to thread the hole, it would cut through the right angle behind it. i have had that happen on a few of the tops I already had to scrap. Mips holes it is... thought I shouldn't call them "mips holes" cause I designed the block first with those holes there originally, but sadly the original thread was deleted.


----------



## Squashie

Since you are making your own blocks, ever consider making one block that cover both CPU and VRMs? I mean, they are right next to each other and they do it on VGAs...


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Since you are making your own blocks, ever consider making one block that cover both CPU and VRMs? I mean, they are right next to each other and they do it on VGAs...


I'd imagine it would be easier to make them separately and also more efficient if they aren't sharing the heat


----------



## Squashie

Im sure its easier to to make them separate, but easy is boring







As for sharing heat, as long as they are in same loop they still "share" heat as far as i can see. A block for both will also contain more metal there fore dissipating more heat. On the other hand, KISS, "keep it simple stupid", might work better







Just thinking out loud here, LOL


----------



## wthenshaw

I can imagine it being very ugly as well.


----------



## Citra

Could work.


----------



## Squashie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> I can imagine it being very ugly as well.


With a good design they would look as good as any other good designed block i guess.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> The new hole you have in blue would not work because as the tap goes in to thread the hole, it would cut through the right angle behind it. i have had that happen on a few of the tops I already had to scrap. Mips holes it is... thought I shouldn't call them "mips holes" cause I designed the block first with those holes there originally, but sadly the original thread was deleted.


I wouldn't be so quick to abandon the idea. The other inlet hole (the one on the bottom) seems to be closer to that edge and it didn't cut into the right angle. And as I have said before, with my GPU cards (which have built in backplates) there is about 1/8 inch of space between the card and the beveled edge of your chipset block. So if you need to move the edge over a little to prevent cutting through the right angle, you have a little room. So in theory, it seems feasible to make a few adjustments to get it working to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> Since you are making your own blocks, ever consider making one block that cover both CPU and VRMs? I mean, they are right next to each other and they do it on VGAs...


I think this was a consideration originally when the block was designed. The problem is that the original size of the copper block before CNC milling would be a lot bigger and cost a lot more money. So much so that it would be prohibitive and waste a lot of copper. And I don't believe nateman_doo is able to recycle the shavings that come off the blocks he makes and reforge them into materials for new blocks. But he'd have to comment on that for more info/details.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Mips holes it is... thought I shouldn't call them "mips holes" cause I designed the block first with those holes there originally, but sadly the original thread was deleted.


Fair enough. Going forward we will refer to them as the mipsman_doo holes in the middle of the block, and the nateman_doo holes on the edge of the block.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> I wouldn't be so quick to abandon the idea. .


The nateman_doo holes would work fine if the block wasn't beveled where the holes are. If you simply left the block top parallel to the motherboard, everything would fit. But....at this point I just want a top that works as quickly as possible. If I felt more confident about it, I would tap some threads in my current block top myself right where the mipsman_doo holes are, and just use stop fittings on the nateman_doo holes. But please, PLEASE....do whatever gets me a top that can be used in the least amount of time.


----------



## nateman_doo

My goal is this week. I plan to have my fixture plate for these done tomorrow or thursday at the latest, then have some replacement delrin tops made and be shipped out by next week.

oh... and LOL to the mipsman_doo holes!









http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...cket-14803-1378867507152_zpsffe35f03.jpg.html
This ugly aluminum plate will be the future home of new ASrock blocks.


----------



## nateman_doo

...and after:
http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...ucket-1656-1378951903708_zpscc3e4723.jpg.html


----------



## nateman_doo

And this is the purpose of the fixture plate:
http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...cket-15675-1378954158833_zpsc80da095.jpg.html
To drop the raw material in a specific place, bolt it down.. and hit the go button









Showing off the accuracy:
http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...ucket-4766-1378954216096_zpsba3fd09b.jpg.html


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> And this is the purpose of the fixture plate:


Hmm just put 2 and 2 together! I have been watching your CNC build from day one........small world!!


----------



## nateman_doo

For the whole 2 years??!
I was wondering how u knew about the waterblocks


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> For the whole 2 years??!


Yep! I'm on my third CNC build.

Of course also watching this amazing PC build!


----------



## seross69

This is so off topic!! It has now become a thread about the CNC machine and cpachris trying to get a motherboard block that works!!







I miss the updates!!!


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> This is so off topic!! It has now become a thread about the CNC machine and cpachris trying to get a motherboard block that works!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss the updates!!!


How can this be off topic when the cnc is relevant to the blocks which are relevant to the motherboard which is indeed a main factor to the building log. Come on seross, just because *your* build log is frequently off topic...


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> This is so off topic!! It has now become a thread about the CNC machine and cpachris trying to get a motherboard block that works!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss the updates!!!


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*


----------



## cpachris

Minor update while I await the replacement top for the chipset block from nateman_doo. No pictures.

Been playing with BIOS profiles for different overclock settings. When I set these up originally, I did so with 32GB of memory at stock settings (1866, 9-9-9-27). So now, I'm going back and making sure that I can overclock the memory with the CPU overclocking profiles I had setup.

*4.6GHz offset* -- This profile will probably be what I leave the box at for most of the time, since it's on 24/7. With a voltage offset of 0.03 and LLC of 3, this profile puts my vCore at 1.36 at full load, and drops it back down nicely to less than 1.0 volts when idling. I tweaked the memory to 2133, 10-11-10-30 and 1.57 DRAM voltage, and had no issues at all with a 12 hour Prime95 blended torture test. Temps are very nice with vCore at 1.36 and average CPU core would stay right around 59 or so. Also, I saw no appreciable increase in the memory temperatures by bumping the DRAM voltage to 1.57. I'm still running with no water on the memory blocks right now, but plan to plumb these back up during next update. Water lowers the memory temps by more than 10 degrees.

*4.7Ghz offset* -- This is the highest overclock I have been able to achieve stability with (24 hours of Prime95) an offset voltage instead of fixed voltage. With offset, it requires 0.1 positive offset, and this produces a vCore of 1.43 at full load. This is way more vCore than it needs for 4.7Ghz, but this processor/board requires more voltage when using an offset profile for when it downclocks. I don't like this profile, and won't be doing much with it.

*4.8Ghz fixed* -- Hitting 4.8Ghz with fixed (or manual) voltage was easy for this processor/board. Rock solid stable at 24 hours of Prime 95. If I set the fixed voltage to 1.38 with an LLC of 1, this produces vCore of 1.40 at full load. Temps are still very good at 1.40 vCore, so I like this profile. But....since it is fixed voltage instead of offset, it doesn't decrease voltage as CPU downclocks. So even when idling, the vCore remains at about 1.39. So even though temps are great when idling, I don't like leaving that much voltage running 24/7. So I'll probably use the 4.6Ghz offset profile the majority of the time, but load this profile when I'm going to be doing some heavy lifting for an extended period. The bump in memory speed up to 2133, 10-11-10-30 required a little tweaking for stability. I hit a few issues during Prime95 with DRAM voltage at 1.57, but reached stability by increasing DRAM voltage to 1.59. No significant change in memory temps by doing this.

*5.0Ghz fixed* -- Booting up is a little tricky at 5.0Ghz, and I'm successful about 75% of the time. However, I've found that if I boot at 4.9Ghz, I can always boot, and then I use the Asrock Extreme Tuning Utility tool to increase frequency to 5.0Ghz and fixed voltage to 1.42. At an LLC of 1, this produces a vCore at load of about 1.44. Prime95 can produce some errors when run for extended periods, but I seem to be able to run any of the benchmark programs I have without issue. So....I'll probably run a set of epeen benchmarks at 5.0Ghz, but keep the machine at a different profile for most of of the time. Memory was able to stay at 2133, 10-11-10-30 and DRAM of 1.59 for these runs.

Other than waiting on nateman_doo replacement top for chipset block......I'm going to continue with some memory tests. I'm going to put back in 64GB instead of 32GB...and see if I can still use the same CPU overclocking profiles I setup. Once I know this....I'll decide on final memory configuration. 64GB vs 32GB......and what speed/timing to run it at.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

So weird how offset works bad for you. :headscrat


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Minor update while I await the replacement top for the chipset block from nateman_doo. No pictures.
> *5.0Ghz fixed* -- Booting up is a little tricky at 5.0Ghz, and I'm successful about 75% of the time. However, I've found that if I boot at 4.9Ghz, I can always boot, and then I use the Asrock Extreme Tuning Utility tool to increase frequency to 5.0Ghz and fixed voltage to 1.42. At an LLC of 1, this produces a vCore at load of about 1.44. Prime95 can produce some errors when run for extended periods, but I seem to be able to run any of the benchmark programs I have without issue. So....I'll probably run a set of epeen benchmarks at 5.0Ghz, but keep the machine at a different profile for most of of the time. Memory was able to stay at 2133, 10-11-10-30 and DRAM of 1.59 for these runs.
> 
> Other than waiting on nateman_doo replacement top for chipset block......I'm going to continue with some memory tests. I'm going to put back in 64GB instead of 32GB...and see if I can still use the same CPU overclocking profiles I setup. Once I know this....I'll decide on final memory configuration. 64GB vs 32GB......and what speed/timing to run it at.


Although no where in this "league" I have to do something similar to get my 910 past 247 Mhz fsb with stability.
After loggin in, I can then increase FSB to 250+ MHz, and get 3.25Ghz or more respectively..


----------



## badtaylorx

did you really w/c the raid card....

this is awsome


----------



## TATH

Whoo what did i mis. Watercooling a raid card have to see this.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Whoo what did i mis. Watercooling a raid card have to see this.


Pictures or it didn't happen


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Pictures or it didn't happen


You mean you skipped through the posts without looking at the photo of the block on the card?


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> did you really w/c the raid card....
> 
> this is awsome


Dude, I think in this build, if he could have come up with a way to WC his PSU, he would have.







This is the build that got me back into the computer hobby.


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Whoo what did i mis. Watercooling a raid card have to see this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Pictures or it didn't happen


Oh it happened alright. Took me about 15 min. browsing through all the pics,
but I found that sucker.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/3210#post_19916337


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Oh it happened alright. Took me about 15 min. browsing through all the pics,
> but I found that sucker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/3210#post_19916337


Yes great thank you for the search.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Oh it happened alright. Took me about 15 min. browsing through all the pics,
> but I found that sucker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/3210#post_19916337


Thanks +rep


----------



## seross69

I am thinking of doing this on my server but wonder if it will look good and be worthwhile??


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am thinking of doing this on my server but wonder if it will look good and be worthwhile??


Are there large raiser cards. I think if it was posible you can put the raid card between the fans in a pedestel "so you got alot of cooling" . I dont mean you have to do this i was wundering if it is posible.


----------



## Virtue423

a replica of this build should be put on display in The Museum of Modern Art.


----------



## nateman_doo

getting ready to cut:
http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...cket-12102-1379651021869_zps1e797724.jpg.html

http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...cket-14340-1379650703616_zps711a06b2.jpg.html


----------



## nateman_doo

extruded:

http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...cket-15660-1379656890150_zpsc8b3d9cb.jpg.html

sorry if this is *ahem*...."off topic" as some have noted a few pages back...


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> extruded:
> 
> http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...cket-15660-1379656890150_zpsc8b3d9cb.jpg.html
> 
> sorry if this is *ahem*...."off topic" as some have noted a few pages back...


great skills, love to see it. If you look on the internet there are many people who build there own cnc machine.
i wunder if its hard to learn to operate the machine.


----------



## nateman_doo

Thanks! it was easier building it, then learning to use it!


----------



## seross69

I admire and envy anyone that can use a machine like this because to me you have to be part artist to be able to design what you want to make. Once the designing is done you just program machine and let it do its job. Or at least this is how it works in my head.. I might be wrong. Plus I can build a lot of things in my head but never translate them to paper to show... MY brain dose not think that way...

Again Great job on what you are doing!!!


----------



## nateman_doo

Thanks!

Flat tops, ready for the finish pass:
http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...ucket-9232-1379756450183_zps87c2f913.jpg.html


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I admire and envy anyone that can use a machine like this because to me you have to be part artist to be able to design what you want to make. Once the designing is done you just program machine and let it do its job. Or at least this is how it works in my head.. I might be wrong. Plus I can build a lot of things in my head but never translate them to paper to show... MY brain dose not think that way...
> 
> Again Great job on what you are doing!!!


It keeps my head cracking along time about cnc routing. I spent a evening on it yesterday and i put some sites on you buildlog. If you got a couple of 1000 you can start.
Hope you like it.


----------



## seross69

Like I said before I admire anyone that can do this but I have no desire to do it..


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> It keeps my head cracking along time about cnc routing. I spent a evening on it yesterday and i put some sites on you buildlog. If you got a couple of 1000 you can start.
> Hope you like it.


If you guys are interested, start at the first video here:
http://www.glacern.com/index.php?page=video_index&video=1&video_name=crash_course_mill_01

Its a crash course in milling. Just gives you guys a brief idea of what its about. its off topic, but its still educational.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> If you guys are interested, start at the first video here:
> http://www.glacern.com/index.php?page=video_index&video=1&video_name=crash_course_mill_01
> 
> Its a crash course in milling. Just gives you guys a brief idea of what its about. its off topic, but its still educational.


Looks good,

There are people who join clubs to build their own cnc router. The fun begins under a 1000 euro. The router is ment to cut out acrylic custom parts for the build.
My buddy at the firestation works at a big firm where the make special products if i want the can make what ever you can imagin. I just have to send him my AatoCAD files.

Yes i like it.


----------



## cpachris

Still waiting on nateman_doo replacement top. He told me yesterday that he hoped to finish them yesterday...so here's hoping he did and that they will be mailed promptly. I'm so ready to move forward. For those that had inquired about my Mips blocks, I have sold them to a fellow OCN'er, absorbed, and he is as anxious as I for the nateman_doo tops to be finished. Hang in there my friend. I have high hopes I'll get to install and test this weekend.

While we wait....here is a chart of some of the temp testing I did last month. As a reminder, this was done with a vCore of 1.43.....so the temperatures are much hotter than they are when running less volts....but all readings were done with the same vCore, so the relative changes are what the real story of the chart is:



This chart shows average CPU core temp at different fan speeds and different flow rates. As you can see, I got very good temperature reductions by increasing flow rate. Some of you data diggers may have already determined this with the raw data I have posted previously. But these are adjusted for ambient temps....and then the chart makes it easy to see whether I'm getting more bang for the buck by increasing fan speed, or flow rate. Or both.


----------



## nateman_doo

The tops were completed last night. I will have them in the mail soon. I have to get the screws packaged.

Honestly I must confess this entire machining operation in my basement has been wearing my family down. I have had to step back some in order to keep it running. I am one man servicing an entire community of modders, and each block takes time to make. Its not like I am supplementing when other manufacturers run out, I do it all. Which makes great business, but I still have a full time job, military obligations, 2 small kids and a loving wife to tend too. My kids think I "live" in the basement its getting that bad. In any case, I can service everyone but at the expense of time. I just don't have as much as I want. Things have gotten easier with the new machine, but the years I neglected my family that it took to make the machine took its toll.


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> The tops were completed last night. I will have them in the mail soon. I have to get the screws packaged.
> 
> Honestly I must confess this entire machining operation in my basement has been wearing my family down. I have had to step back some in order to keep it running. I am one man servicing an entire community of modders, and each block takes time to make. Its not like I am supplementing when other manufacturers run out, I do it all. Which makes great business, but I still have a full time job, military obligations, 2 small kids and a loving wife to tend too. My kids think I "live" in the basement its getting that bad. In any case, I can service everyone but at the expense of time. I just don't have as much as I want. Things have gotten easier with the new machine, but the years I neglected my family that it took to make the machine took its toll.


Then regardless of the various nagging going on to rush your product, don't dedicate all your time to work.

Especially with all the things that you have that are affected by this..


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> .....regardless of the various nagging going on to *rush* your product.


I support family time as much as anyone here. But I have to resist the characterization that he is being "rushed". I, and many other people on this forum, paid deposits on these waterblocks close to a year ago. A year ago.

With that out of the way....here is latest update. Nateman_doo let me know he is sending a temporary replacement top so that I can test the newly revised inlet/outlet placement. No indication on why it's a temporary top....so my guess is that it has some unacceptable milling marks or something. Anyway, he indicated that he has the time and materials to turn around a permanent top quickly once the inlet/outlet location is confirmed.

I'll post pics immediately upon receiving and testing.


----------



## cpachris

Another update on the nateman_doo replacement top. He has told me I should expect it today, and I've promised to check the inlet/outlet locations and let him know if they work. I'll be checking to make sure that there is no interference with cards in slots 1 and 3. Again, this is a temporary top which I don't expect to be pretty. But I'll take some pics and share later today.

Here is another temp chart in the meantime. This one is GPU temps, and like the last one, shows that you can get nice temperature drops by increasing flow rate. The temps were recorded after 2 hours of EVGA Tessy Donut stress test, that maxes out GPU utilization. This stress test heats up my GPU's more than any other stress test I have tried.


----------



## yraith

are you sizing a block by trial and error?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> are you sizing a block by trial and error?


After the last top had issues with interference with the CPU block hardware...I think nateman_doo is just playing it safe by getting some more feedback from users before sending out replacement tops for everyone. A wise and prudent course of action, I think.


----------



## AtomTM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> *A wise and prudent course of action*


Yep! He's giving his clients the upper hand and not ditching them, so I hope I can safely say he gives priority to his clients.!


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Another update on the nateman_doo replacement top. He has told me I should expect it today, and I've promised to check the inlet/outlet locations and let him know if they work. I'll be checking to make sure that there is no interference with cards in slots 1 and 3. Again, this is a temporary top which I don't expect to be pretty. But I'll take some pics and share later today.


I just received the temporary replacement top nateman_doo sent me. Looking at it compared to the original top, it looks mostly finished. It's very similar to the original top in terms of appearance. Other than the expected changes from a beveled to a flat top, it looks like the only other difference is that the underside of it isn't grooved like the original. I guess nateman_doo doesn't want to go through with making the groove in the underside until he knows that the inlet positions are good. I've already installed it onto the copper block. However, since I use the computer the block would be installed to during the work week, I won't be able to do any installation attempts until Friday at the earliest. I'll be able to give feedback to nateman_doo after at that point. I'm sure cpachris will be getting his sometime soon as well. Hopefully he doesn't have the same constraints as me and will be able to give earlier feedback.


----------



## cpachris

I received it today. Will play with installation after dinner and family poker night (new monday thing we are trying). The replacement top has a bow to it that was not present in the original. Would not be comfortable trying to straighten this out and trust it to seal and not leak. I think that's why these were the "temporary" tops. But I'll confirm inlet/outlet placement doesn't interfere with video cards, and then give nateman_doo the go ahead to drill. Pictures tonight after dinner.


----------



## PMPN8EZ

First off, this is an epic build thanks for sharing. Secondly how can I get some of those Nateman_doo water blocks? Keep up the great job & get started on the next build.


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMPN8EZ*
> 
> First off, this is an epic build thanks for sharing. Secondly how can I get some of those Nateman_doo water blocks? Keep up the great job & get started on the next build.


Send him a Private Message
http://www.overclock.net/u/118672/nateman-doo


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I received it today. Will play with installation after dinner and family poker night (new monday thing we are trying). The replacement top has a bow to it that was not present in the original. Would not be comfortable trying to straighten this out and trust it to seal and not leak. I think that's why these were the "temporary" tops. But I'll confirm inlet/outlet placement doesn't interfere with video cards, and then give nateman_doo the go ahead to drill. Pictures tonight after dinner.


Mine had a little bend to it as well. The bend straightened out for the most part once it is screwed in place to the copper block. The lower right corner edge is the only area where it's a little off the surface of the block. And I think that's because of the screw placements. But I agree with you about the seal. I don't think I'd trust putting it under water without extensive leak testing first (i.e. a couple of days of leak testing without any leaks identified).

I did get some feedback from nateman_doo about the underside being grooveless. He said that the grooves on the underside were only needed because of the old placement of the inlets with the beveled top. With the new locations of the inlets, the underside doesn't need the grooves to maintain good flow. But, we'll see how it performs once the final version is available.


----------



## cpachris

Here are some pictures of the revised (temporary) top for the nateman_doo chipset block, and some comparison shots of the inside vs. Mips.

This shot shows the bow in the temporary top. Although it straightened out pretty much when I screwed it into the copper bottom, it doesn't look like it's a perfect seal. nateman_doo said these turned out curved due to the thickness of the material from which they were cut. New and final top is already done and just awaiting drilling of the inlet/outlet hole locations.



Here are a couple of shots that compare the new top with the old beveled top. Same shape...just no beveled edge and change of hole locations....





....and here are a few pictures of the block with the new top on it. This block is huge and heavy.







Here are some shots comparing the size of the nateman_doo block with the Mips block. This block dwarfs the Mips block. nateman_doo on the left.....Mips on the right.



Mips on top of the nateman_doo block....







The nateman_doo block is larger in every direction. The other major difference in the looks of the blocks is that nateman_doo used black screws and Mips used silver screws. Which one looks better will depend on your build color and highlights.



These next 3 shots show the inside of the Mips block. Similar to the their VRM block....Mips uses a design that incorporates a thin flat copper plate....and all of the channel milling is done in the black top....not the copper. With the price of copper what it is....I'm sure this helps keep the price of the block down....but I would imagine that the way nateman does his block (channel milled into the copper bottom) would yield more temp transfer, with everything else the same.



Take a look at the water path in this Mips top. Wow. I think I've found out what made my loop so restrictive. Those are tiny little paths with VERY tight 180 degree turns in multiple places. Compare the size of the radius of the circle making those two small 180 turns in the corner with the radius of the inlet holes. They are about the same. So....imagine your loop having to do a 180 turn INSIDE of the threads of a G1/4 fitting. That is what is going on in there. TWICE. Even the inlet hole that comes in over the plastic jet plate side....is very very shallow. I don't want to knock this block....because my temps went from too high....to low 30's with this block. It performs beautifully. But the way it was designed has to be adding the most restriction by far to my whole loop. We'll see if flow rates increase when I swap the blocks out.





These next shots are of the nateman_doo block insides. It's pretty inside. You've probably already seen these from some of the videos he has posted along the way. You can see that the water channel is milled into the copper here....instead of the black top as Mips did it. I like this approach more.



The channel is deep and wide, and I wouldn't expect this block to have a lot of restriction. If I were to pick something to criticize about the design of the block...I'd say that the PLX chip closest to the bottom edge of the board is not going to get a lot of water circulation above it. In the picture below....its the nubby that sticks out on the farthest left edge of this picture. In contrast....Mips forced their flow around these corners using those tiny tiny little 180 turns. That keeps circulation over these PLX chip areas....but probably slows down flow rate overall....hurting other components. It's a trade-off....not sure which approach will work better overall. Might be a mixed bag. We'll see.



In this picture, the area in question is at the very top of the picture. You can see how it probably won't get much circulation. But then again....it probably doesn't need much. The PLX chips are not what gets real hot under here. Just having water in contact with the copper is going to transfer some heat....even with very little circulation.



This is a picture of the old Mips block on the board.



The Mips block is attached with five screws which screw directly into the block from the back of the board. Absorbed.....this picture is really for you since you'll have this block shortly.



I used paste TIM for the Mips block...and it looks like I had good contact with all 4chips.....



Skipping forward (forgot to shoot pics for awhile) to the installed nateman_doo block. The holes line up perfectly between cards in slot 1 and slot 3. They are spaced wider apart than the Mips holes were...but that allows nateman_doo to position them over the deepest parts of the channel.



You can see the hole positioning more clearly here....



I think the hole locations are just about perfect. You can see here that I can use a normal G1/4 fitting extender and it comes up cleanly between the cards without being close touching either of them. It might get a little tight if you have a backplate on the card in slot #3...but I think even that would work.



Even a big ol' Bitspower compression fitting sits cleanly between the two cards. But it is REAL close to touching...and if you go the compression fitting route, you probably will want to slip a little piece of clear plastic between the fitting and the cards to prevent it from accidentally shorting anything out.



So....I'm good with the placing of these holes...and I've let nateman know. Hopefully I have the final and permanent top for the block (no bowing) within a couple of days, and can test the temp performance and flow rate. Can't wait!


----------



## seross69

I likey


----------



## nateman_doo

Awesome! I am down in my basement as we speak. I will be checking back with this thread all throughout the night (or till about 2 am EST) and will take peoples suggestions. It seems those giant fittings work like a champ, so I will use the same holes for everyone unless I hear otherwise. But Chris is correct. Because the placement of the holes is over the deepest portions of the channels, it will be much less restrictive then the beveled top. That was the compromise that I had to engineer, by having the beveled top and getting the block out OVER the cmos battery. God that was KILLING me for the longest. Chris and Vv have been very good with their feedback. Yea..I wasn't really rushed for these blocks, but I have TONS of other blocks being made as well, and these have taken exceptionally long. Trust me, I had lots of stuff going on in life, and down in this basement. On the other hand... working for the Govt, I have some free time now that the govt shut down. I plan to use the downtime wisely... but id rather be working.. cause I don't charge what a real machinist would charge since these are just for fun in my basement in my free time.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Awesome! I am down in my basement as we speak. I will be checking back with this thread all throughout the night (or till about 2 am EST) and will take peoples suggestions. It seems those giant fittings work like a champ, so I will use the same holes for everyone unless I hear otherwise. But Chris is correct. Because the placement of the holes is over the deepest portions of the channels, it will be much less restrictive then the beveled top. That was the compromise that I had to engineer, by having the beveled top and getting the block out OVER the cmos battery. God that was KILLING me for the longest. Chris and Vv have been very good with their feedback. Yea..I wasn't really rushed for these blocks, but I have TONS of other blocks being made as well, and these have taken exceptionally long. Trust me, I had lots of stuff going on in life, and down in this basement. On the other hand... working for the Govt, I have some free time now that the govt shut down. I plan to use the downtime wisely... but id rather be working.. cause I don't charge what a real machinist would charge since these are just for fun in my basement in my free time.


I thought your government job was in the military. Military jobs aren't supposed to be affected. But, if you have more free time, all's well that ends well.


----------



## nateman_doo

I am affected. It is what it is. I will take advantage of it.
Here are the cut tops (minus the holes and fine bead blasting)
http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...cket-13001-1380686876639_zps7299bafc.jpg.html

And here are the temp tops vs the finished tops:
http://s590.photobucket.com/user/na...ucket-4135-1380686845433_zps522a0480.jpg.html
The lower ones are the finished tops, the ones in the background are curved. Think of the tops ones as being heated... without being stressed relieved. Either or, it was an experiment. The bottoms ones will be the finished ones.


----------



## Wibble360

Looking great, glad to see more progress from this thread!

I think it's pretty impressive you've produced blocks in your basement that look as though they might out-perform blocks from a proper manufacturer - looking forward to the final pics and testing results!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Hey, nateman_doo, I might have to hit you up for some custom (i.e. - non-watercooled) heat sinks one day. Do you make those?


----------



## nateman_doo

Thanks for the compliments! I cannot compete with them since manufacturers have much more they can bring to bear on these projects. I am just a dude in my basement. I have come a long way I must admit. The plastic tops will be finished tonight.


----------



## PMPN8EZ

Nateman_doo, will those blocks be available with a clear acrylic finish to them?


----------



## cpachris

While waiting on my final replacement top from nateman_doo, I started playing around with some of my vinyl Carbon Fiber wrap. I had started wrapping the boxes behind the I/O shield awhile back, and had tried both black and white carbon fiber wrap....and had settled on black. So....I finally got around to finishing it. Removed the white I had tried on one box, and finished all of the rest in black. Below is a pic of the results....



So....while I was playing with my carbon fiber wrap, I got the idea of making my own backplate for my Areca raid card. There is not a place that sells a backplate for these cards, so my only option is find someone that wants to make a custom one, ....or make one myself. Decided to make my own. It really doesn't need one for strengthening of the card, or for cooling on the back side of the card. The main reason I want one is to hide the green PCB of the Areca card. My GTX690's have a nice black PCB and I like the look of those even without a backplate. But the green PCB of the Areca card is ruining my mojo.

Here a pic of what I mean about the green PCB. Kind of throws everything off a little bit.



Because of the waterblock openings between PCI slots #1 and #3....any backplate I make has to be VERY VERY thin. There really would not even be room to raise the backplate up so that it clears the electronics. So....I decided the safest way to make a backplate, and ensure that I don't short anything out...is to make it out of something that is non conductive. It also has to be very thin.

I decided to use cardboard and to wrap it with my carbon fiber wrap.

Here the Areca card before I started....





I used one of the boxes that my PSU's came in for the cardboard. It's thin but still relatively stiff, while remaining flexible.



I cut out the shape of the backplate from this cardboard....



...and started wrapping it in the carbon fiber...





Done. The carbon fiber wrap added some rigidity to the cardboard. It has a nice feel.





There were two holes that I was using to secure the waterblock on the Areca card. I used these holes and the washer/nuts that I was already using for the waterblock...to secure the backplate. I miscalculated with one of the holes in the backplate....but it really won't show once it's installed. I'll cover it up with some carbon wrap later.





And.....installed. It does a nice job of hiding most of the green.





Will be playing with some more vinyl sticker making today. I anticipate getting the nateman_doo replacement block on Monday or Tuesday of this week.


----------



## luciddreamer124

I was wondering if you were ever going to do something about that









Looks nice!


----------



## FannBlade

Making great headway! Backplates look awesome.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I was wondering if you were ever going to do something about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks nice!


I knew it was time when my 9yo son....who is enthralled with this computer build....came in one day from school and started looking at it and said...."That green board makes it look like a Christmas tree with all the red."

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> Making great headway! Backplates look awesome.


Thanks FannBlade!


----------



## cpachris

More fun with carbon fiber.....

Since the color theme on the motherboard has definitely become black and copper, I decided to use my black carbon fiber vinyl wrap in a few more spots.

This shot below is of the top of the SATA connections on the right hand side of the motherboard. They are grey and black, depending on whether they are SATA2 or SATA3 speeds.



Plastic has kind of a cheap look to it...so I decided to cover the SATA ports with some carbon fiber. I think this looks nicer....



The edge of the motherboard on the right hand side (bottom of this picture) has some of the serial number stickers.



I peeled those off carefully and stuck them on the back of the board (in case I ever need them again), and ran a very small strip of carbon fiber along the side of the board, like so......



One of the reasons I fell in love with the look of the Asrock Extreme 11 motherboard, was the gold capacitors on the black PCB. And I still love the way they look. But to be honest...the gold kind of clashes with my black/copper look I'm going for. So I got a hole punch that was the size of the small capacitor tops, and cut some little circles....



....carefully placed them on the tops.....



....and this took away the harshest part of the gold tops. Yes....there is still some gold on the sides...but this is not seen nearly as directly....and tends to reflect the other copper and black that surrounds them. I think this hides the gold in a subtle way.



The SLI bridge that came with the board isn't bad looking.....just kind of plain. But instead of being black....it's kind of a dark brown. I've been planning on doing something with this for awhile....thought I'd try out some carbon fiber on it and see.....



....it definitely looks better. Still deciding whether I keep this look or go for some little strip of copper or something to cover the top.



Still working.....so more soon!


----------



## zemco999

This looks amazing!


----------



## seross69

All the finishing touches, be doing that for a long time I bet. especially with the visual mater piece you have created.


----------



## FannBlade

OK the capacitors dots are little over the top!!!







This must be OCN!


----------



## Big Elf

Making those carbon fibre circles with the hole punch is genius.


----------



## Squashie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I knew it was time when my 9yo son....who is enthralled with this computer build....came in one day from school and started looking at it and said...."That green board makes it look like a Christmas tree with all the red."


That made me lol


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> While waiting on my final replacement top from nateman_doo, I started playing around with some of my vinyl Carbon Fiber wrap. I had started wrapping the boxes behind the I/O shield awhile back, and had tried both black and white carbon fiber wrap....and had settled on black. So....I finally got around to finishing it. Removed the white I had tried on one box, and finished all of the rest in black.


Aaaah finally







I was wondering when you were going to get those done alright.
I specifically remember this picture and how it made me feel, but I wasn't going to say anything haha


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















I was thinking: Why the hell would he only cover the top and bottom one ?!
I'm glad all is well with the world now haha
Love all the tiny little details and how you progress.









Edit: I know my gf has OCD, but I'm pretty sure I don't. LOL


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> If forced to choose from one of your well worded options, it would be EPIC job. Had to correctly spell "which" on the job application though......


LOL


----------



## Lourad

That was fun! For those of you as old as I am, the song and speed will make you remember a great old TV show. Anybody get it?

.

Benny Hill


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zemco999*
> 
> This looks amazing!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> OK the capacitors dots are little over the top!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This must be OCN!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Making those carbon fibre circles with the hole punch is genius.


Thanks guys. I can't take credit for the carbon fiber hole punch....saw that one on someone's build log quite awhile ago. Can't remember who's it was now....or I'd give them a shout out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> All the finishing touches, be doing that for a long time I bet. especially with the visual mater piece you have created.


Nope. I'm going to wrap up version 1.0 of the BBBB within two weeks. Need to enjoy it for a little while before launching version 2.0, which I expect to have a 4960X and two GTX790's, along with a few aesthetic improvements.







I'm thinking that will be a nice holiday season upgrade.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> That made me lol


Kids will always tell you what you need to know.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Aaaah finally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering when you were going to get those done alright.
> I specifically remember this picture and how it made me feel, but I wasn't going to say anything haha
> I was thinking: Why the hell would he only cover the top and bottom one ?!
> I'm glad all is well with the world now haha
> Love all the tiny little details and how you progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I know my gf has OCD, but I'm pretty sure I don't. LOL


OCD can be a good thing.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Benny Hill


You are correct! But I think Quest99 beat you to the punch by more than a year. My goodness I've taken too long to finish this thing. Oh well.....soon.


----------



## cpachris

I received nateman_doo's final replacement top in the mail this afternoon! The top is very straight and level, unlike the temporary replacement top I got last week to test for hole placement. This one is very well done, and the finish on it is impeccable. Very smooth. The bead blasting step was well done and worth the wait. I apologize in advance for these pictures. They were done right underneath the fluorescent lights above my kitchenette table. Hot and harsh. Promise better pictures before all done. Here is the new top.....



I removed the copper block from the motherboard and screwed the new top on....



This is the backside of the block....



I used 1.5mm thermal pad, per nateman_doo instructions. I went ahead and covered almost everything under the block that looked like it touched the copper. Not necessarily for heat transfer....but primarily as a small layer of protection. If I get a little heat transfer also....even better.



I snugged the block down into place, and then screwed it on to the board from the back.



Then I put the board back in the motherboard tray and started reassembling the loop layout on the lower 1/2 of the board. I have to put the connections on the chipset block first, because there is zero room for fingers or pliers once you put the cards back in the PCIe slots.



Then put in the Areca card and connect the loop between the chipset block and the Areca card cooler....



Then put in both GTX690's and connect the to the Areca card and the CPU....





And....It's back together.



After dinner I'm going to fill it back up and see if I'm back up and running. Once I am, I'll be able to report on the impact of the nateman_doo chipset block on temperatures and flow rate. After I get that piece of the build squared away, I won't have much left to do to finish version 1.0. I need to finalize whether I'll be using 32gb or 64gb of memory. Still need to test overclock profiles with 64gb of memory. Then I have some final stickers to print, and some wiring nits....plus a few odds/ends....and I should be ready for final photos and benchmarks for BBBB v1.0. It's been a long trip......


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> You are correct! But I think Quest99 beat you to the punch by more than a year. My goodness I've taken too long to finish this thing. Oh well.....soon.


Kinda new to OCN, just recently started reading this.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Kinda new to OCN, just recently started reading this.


Glad to have you aboard...and glad you showed your age with the Benny Hill knowledge.









If you don't mind, could you go back and edit your post above to remove the pictures? It slows down loading for everyone when pictures get repeated in quotes, and makes it unnecessarily long when scrolling through posts. Appreciate it my friend. And welcome to OCN.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Almost done!!

For now.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I received nateman_doo's final replacement top in the mail this afternoon! The top is very straight and level, unlike the temporary replacement top I got last week to test for hole placement. This one is very well done, and the finish on it is impeccable. Very smooth. The bead blasting step was well done and worth the wait. I apologize in advance for these pictures. They were done right underneath the fluorescent lights above my kitchenette table. Hot and harsh. Promise better pictures before all done. Here is the new top.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I removed the copper block from the motherboard and screwed the new top on....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the backside of the block....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I used 1.5mm thermal pad, per nateman_doo instructions. I went ahead and covered almost everything under the block that looked like it touched the copper. Not necessarily for heat transfer....but primarily as a small layer of protection. If I get a little heat transfer also....even better.
> 
> 
> 
> I snugged the block down into place, and then screwed it on to the board from the back.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I put the board back in the motherboard tray and started reassembling the loop layout on the lower 1/2 of the board. I have to put the connections on the chipset block first, because there is zero room for fingers or pliers once you put the cards back in the PCIe slots.
> 
> 
> 
> Then put in the Areca card and connect the loop between the chipset block and the Areca card cooler....
> 
> 
> 
> Then put in both GTX690's and connect the to the Areca card and the CPU....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And....It's back together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After dinner I'm going to fill it back up and see if I'm back up and running. Once I am, I'll be able to report on the impact of the nateman_doo chipset block on temperatures and flow rate. After I get that piece of the build squared away, I won't have much left to do to finish version 1.0. I need to finalize whether I'll be using 32gb or 64gb of memory. Still need to test overclock profiles with 64gb of memory. Then I have some final stickers to print, and some wiring nits....plus a few odds/ends....and I should be ready for final photos and benchmarks for BBBB v1.0. It's been a long trip......


Now that's a beauty.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> You are correct! But I think Quest99 beat you to the punch by more than a year. My goodness I've taken too long to finish this thing. Oh well.....soon.


It's been a fun ride though hasn't it... Hasn't it?


----------



## TheMadProfessor

That is just... sexy as all hell.

Hey Chris, any particular reason why you didn't carbon fiber the backside of the video cards like you did to the Areca?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> I'm going to wrap up version 1.0 of the BBBB within two weeks. Need to enjoy it for a little while before launching version 2.0, which I expect to have a 4960X and two GTX790's, along with a few aesthetic improvements. smile.gif I'm thinking that will be a nice holiday season upgrade.


Yay for having to do a bunch of firmware updates and resetting all of your bios tweaks. I wonder if an N-scale Christmas red/white train would fit inside the case...


----------



## yraith

Didn't you just celebrate a milestone of a year with this build? So, if you start at the holidays, you can expect to finish up by the holidays following? And a theme build? Hmmm....
Quote:


> I wonder if an N-scale Christmas red/white train would fit inside the case...


----------



## yraith

There are many builds in my head which I wish I had the materials for..

1) '71 Mini Cooper S
2) Robotech Veri-Tech Fighter
3) The HULK
4) A Virginia Class Submarine
5) Borg Cube


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> 5) Borg Cube


There are plenty of cube-style cases. Just get one of those and decorate it with a lot of cut up injection molding sprues (aka, the frame that surrounds the parts of a plastic model) and add some green lights.


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost done!!
> 
> For now.


I see another year


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost done!!
> For now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> It's been a fun ride though hasn't it... Hasn't it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> I see another year


Yep Almost done. Yes...I would anticipate that this case will house components or much longer than another year. But updates will become small batches of components and/or loop changes and/or aesthetic changes. It will always quickly return to a status of usable. So yes....another year or even more....but not in an unfinished state ever.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> That is just... sexy as all hell.
> Hey Chris, any particular reason why you didn't carbon fiber the backside of the video cards like you did to the Areca?


I just kind of like the black PCB and electronics look for the cards. Didn't see a need to to cover it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Yay for having to do a bunch of firmware updates and resetting all of your bios tweaks. I wonder if an N-scale Christmas red/white train would fit inside the case...


You jinxed me. I decided to upgrade firmware and BIOS for the Areca raid card, and now it's not being recognized by the system. Working with Areca customer support now.


----------



## mandrix

Wow! You just keep coming up with more and more little details.
Looking good.


----------



## Lourad

Can you ppl plz stop adding to this thread, I am so far behind already.
I have just started reading and I will never catch up if you guys keep adding to it.

Thank you
Really great build!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Can you ppl plz stop adding to this thread, I am so far behind already.
> I have just started reading and I will never catch up if you guys keep adding to it.
> 
> Thank you
> Really great build!


Read faster...


----------



## striderstone

What waterblock is that for the CPU?
I have the waterblocks for the mobo from NMD as well and I am having a tough time getting my bits power waterblock to fit. He said that he's going to send me a flat top PLX/SB waterblock but with seeing the placement of the inlet/outlet I am extremely concerned about being able to house my 4x GTX 680 classified Hydro coppers









Just ran into this tonight as I FINALLY got all my parts in. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> What waterblock is that for the CPU?
> I have the waterblocks for the mobo from NMD as well and I am having a tough time getting my bits power waterblock to fit. He said that he's going to send me a flat top PLX/SB waterblock but with seeing the placement of the inlet/outlet I am extremely concerned about being able to house my 4x GTX 680 classified Hydro coppers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just ran into this tonight as I FINALLY got all my parts in. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.


MIPS Iceforce HF, with custom copper colored clamp. MIPS are now out of business and aquatuning bought the last of their stock.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> What waterblock is that for the CPU?
> I have the waterblocks for the mobo from NMD as well and I am having a tough time getting my bits power waterblock to fit. He said that he's going to send me a flat top PLX/SB waterblock but with seeing the placement of the inlet/outlet I am extremely concerned about being able to house my 4x GTX 680 classified Hydro coppers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> MIPS Iceforce HF, with custom copper colored clamp. MIPS are now out of business and aquatuning bought the last of their stock.


Yes....Mips with copper plating they did for me. Not sure if you are looking for one...but I have a spare nickel plated ice-force I bought that I'll probably try and sell. PM me if you are interested. Mips is infinitely cooler now that they are out of business.









As far as the 4x 680's....you should be fine as long as the waterblock isn't any thicker than my aquagrafx. Even if it is a little thicker...you would only lose out on using compression fittings directly on the block. Instead switch to either some extenders or the multi-link adapters I'm using. You will be able to make them work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> There are many builds in my head which I wish I had the materials for..
> 
> 1) '71 Mini Cooper S
> 2) Robotech Veri-Tech Fighter
> 3) The HULK
> 4) A Virginia Class Submarine
> 5) Borg Cube


I have two more builds I need to get started on as soon as this one is operational. For my son...it will probably be a Portal themed computer for gaming. That one would have lots of possibilities for tie ins with the blue/orange coloring and portal circles. For wife-y....it will be a cute little mITX build in pink and black.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Wow! You just keep coming up with more and more little details.
> Looking good.


Thanks mandrix. We both keep plugging along.


----------



## striderstone

I really like my bits power one, it glows red







fits my build, ALL black with red highlights. I could really use that custom clamp thing or whatever though :3
the hydro coppers are quite a bit thicker than yours, they reach the very edge of the 2nd slot, MAYBE enough room to squeeze a backplate from another card there but obviously I would be skipping that slot.
I am talking with NMD right now, probably have to place the holes somewhere else. I liked it where they were and I think getting that extra gap between the CPU cooler and the board would work. I have no idea how I would be able to change that though, check out what I got, maybe you have some ideas?


----------



## jrule2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I really like my bits power one, it glows red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fits my build, ALL black with red highlights. I could really use that custom clamp thing or whatever though :3
> the hydro coppers are quite a bit thicker than yours, they reach the very edge of the 2nd slot, MAYBE enough room to squeeze a backplate from another card there but obviously I would be skipping that slot.
> I am talking with NMD right now, probably have to place the holes somewhere else. I liked it where they were and I think getting that extra gap between the CPU cooler and the board would work. I have no idea how I would be able to change that though, check out what I got, maybe you have some ideas?


Just an idea - you could modify the black bracket of that Bitspower block for figment. Cut the point back to the screw channel. This would still allow you to screw it onto the board but it will clear Nateman's block. Then just use barbs for the Asrock block. This of course depends on the screws you use.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrule2*
> 
> Just an idea - you could modify the black bracket of that Bitspower block for figment. Cut the point back to the screw channel. This would still allow you to screw it onto the board but it will clear Nateman's block. Then just use barbs for the Asrock block. This of course depends on the screws you use.


Not quite sure what you mean by "for figment", can you explain?

I assume you're talking about shaving off the extra metal parts on the side. so that it has a lot less clearance. I think if I did it to both sides then it would work...I just want to avoid doing anything that could potentially break the hell out of it.

I could use barbs on that part which is what I was thinking.

I'll measure it out when I get home and see what I can do. Thanks for the tips!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I have no idea how I would be able to change that though, check out what I got, maybe you have some ideas?


The pictures make it look like you are even blocked from getting the CPU cooler to sit down flush over the VRM block....yes? If so, I think that is your bigger issue.

I think the chipset block holes will work fine between slots #1 and #3. If you can actually fit a card in slot #2 while your classy is in slot #1, then I don't believe you will have an issue with extender fittings on the chipset block. Probably can't use compression fitting though.

But it really looks like your CPU cooler bracket is going to cause issues no matter what you do. May be time to start looking around for another CPU cooler....


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> That is just... sexy as all hell.
> Hey Chris, any particular reason why you didn't carbon fiber the backside of the video cards like you did to the Areca?
> 
> 
> 
> I just kind of like the black PCB and electronics look for the cards. Didn't see a need to to cover it.
Click to expand...

Fair enough. Still looks sexy as all hell, man.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The pictures make it look like you are even blocked from getting the CPU cooler to sit down flush over the VRM block....yes? If so, I think that is your bigger issue.
> 
> I think the chipset block holes will work fine between slots #1 and #3. If you can actually fit a card in slot #2 while your classy is in slot #1, then I don't believe you will have an issue with extender fittings on the chipset block. Probably can't use compression fitting though.
> 
> But it really looks like your CPU cooler bracket is going to cause issues no matter what you do. May be time to start looking around for another CPU cooler....


Yeah no matter how I put it on, it's going to be going over on 1 side or the other. but if I shave the "extra parts" off all 4 sides of the bracket then I think it would be possible to make it work.

I can't even return the block at this point, so I think that if I mess around with it a bunch it won't hurt anything. Have any ideas for CPU blocks that you think will fit?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> Have any ideas for CPU blocks that you think will fit?


Agree....if you can't return it....start hacking up that Bitspower bracket to see if you can make it work.

As far as other CPU blocks....I can only vouch or the Mips IceForce. But maybe we can get some of nateman_doo's other Asrock customers to chime in and tell us what CPU block they are using....and if it causes any interference.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Agree....if you can't return it....start hacking up that Bitspower bracket to see if you can make it work.
> 
> As far as other CPU blocks....I can only vouch or the Mips IceForce. But maybe we can get some of nateman_doo's other Asrock customers to chime in and tell us what CPU block they are using....and if it causes any interference.


yeah the one that you have is almost the same as mine...as far as looks/orientation. The only thing that seems different is the fact that you have some fatty ass block on the bottom that mind doesn't have. The sides of your bracket doesn't seem as thick either...I am worried that I will have to customize this block though.

You said you had an extra one? I might just purchase that if you do and if ti has that custom block part on the bottom to give it that extra height.


----------



## Lourad

From some of the other posts and comments, I wonder if when you are completely finished you ought to split the first-post index into build links and tutorial/guide links so others can more readily find your detailed descriptions and photos of doing certain custom things.[/quote]

^ this


----------



## striderstone

I did some sanding and it seemed to work out just fine







it's not the prettiest of "mods" but it did the job and I can still use this beautiful NMD water block


----------



## cpachris

Glad you got it to work. That was all just sanding?


----------



## striderstone

Yeah, all I needed to do was sand off the majority of the top and bottom sides of the block. I didn't want to do too much so that it destroyed the structural integrity of the block itself, but hey, it fits now. I have to wait for a couple more plugs because for some reason when frozenq sent me my last res, the caps had 2 extra ports on it...I still have no idea why they did that, but I am done dealing with them, they are WAY too slow for me to wait for another cap and I don't think I will ever give them business in the future.

So I ordered 3 more plugs and I just have to wait for those to do leak testing and i'm done. I think even without the flat top that NMD made is necessary. I didn't need the super thick CPU block to clear any of the coolers, I just have to make sure my video cards all fit.


----------



## nateman_doo

So now you just nee specific screw lengths to get into the CPU bolt holes?


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> So now you just nee specific screw lengths to get into the CPU bolt holes?


As far as I know, whatever came with the CPU block should work. I don't think there are any issues with that since it only added like 1/100th of an inch to the thickness. We will find out today though. I think that I will just have to tighten up 1 side a little more than the other because 1 side has the extra thickness and the other side doesn't.


----------



## nateman_doo

I look forward to your results! (and chris's results)


----------



## cpachris

Thought I'd update everyone on performance of the nateman_doo chipset block. I can only share flow rate impact right now....not temp data. But more on that in a minute.

I'll spoil the surprise,and start off by saying that I had a nice pick-up in flow rate when I swapped out the Mips chipset block for the nateman_doo chipset block. Sorry. Late spoiler alert. But, I thought this would be a good time to summarize all the changes I've made to the loop that have impacted flow rate....and this block was one of them. So....now you're forced with the decision of whether to read all the gobbledy **** in the middle of this post....or skip straight to the end to see the latest impact. Your call.....









So....a couple of months ago, I was getting about 0.95 gpm flow rate. While this is definitely not poor, it was a little surprising to me to see this as the max, since I had 4 pumps running. I had been expecting a little higher flow rate. Yeah...it's having to be pushed through a lot of blocks, as well as 7 radiators, .....but I mean....it's 4 pumps. Come on. Over the course of the last couple of months, I have made many changes to blocks, as well as the loop, and have recorded the impact of each. Time for a review:

*a)* placed the two AMS radiators in parallel flow. This added about 0.05 gpm to the flow rate, bringing it to about 1.00 gpm. Not huge....but every little bit is helpful.

*b)* added a valve right above the OU reservoir, so that the recirculation loop could be shut off. When this was added, and the valve was closed....it added 0.10 gpm to the flow rate, increasing it to 1.10 gpm. A nice little pickup. This clearly showed that the 7 radiator path of the loop was less restrictive than the waterblock portion of the path. When the coolant was forced to make a serial loop instead of allowing it to choose the path of least resistance, this forced more coolant through the waterblock portion. All testing since this change has been done with the valve closed.

*c)* I removed the Mips memory waterblocks from the loop layout. The blocks are still sitting on the RAM sticks...but not included in the loop layout. This increased the flow rate by 0.10 gpm, bringing it to 1.20 gpm. Getting better.

*d)* I swapped the Mips VRM waterblock, for the nateman_doo VRM waterblock. This increased the flow rate by 0.05 gpm, bringing it to 1.25 gpm.

*e)* And last but not least, I have now swapped the Mips chipset block for the nateman_doo chipset block. This increased the flow rate by another 0.10 gpm, bringing my new max flow rate to 1.35 gpm.

I'm sure some of you can probably get 1.35 gpm with just one or two pumps. But I think mine is slowed down somewhat from all the blocks, radiators and fittings. Even without the memory blocks, there are 8 other waterblocks in the loop right now, along with 7 radiators, 2 flow meters, etc. If I had to take a guess at the next most restrictive part of my loop, I would have to guess the 2x aquagrafx GTX 690 waterblocks. These blocks are huge and although I have not seen any specific flow rate tests done with them....some previous aquagrafx benchmarks for other cards showed they were very restrictive for video card blocks. I can only imagine that these are also. But....my temps are good, so I don't feel the need to search for other ways to improve flow rate even beyond 1.35 gpm. Actually, I'll probably put back on the Mips memory waterblocks because cooling is more than adequate at 1.25 gpm, which is what the max flow rate should drop back down to.

And since the pumps will be running at reduced speeds for the majority of the time anyway....this should be fine.

Now...here is one more shot of everything running again in it's current state.....before I have to tear it down again.











Areca card needs to be sent in for servicing. Could not recover from the firmware upgrade. Won't load a BIOS now. And since I've made some pretty substantial modifications to the card...I'm not going to hold my breath that they will cover it under warranty. But...we'll see. I'd actually love to see their faces when they open the package and find my custom water cooled solution and copper heatsinks all over their card.









I can still work on some wiring/stickers/etc while card is away....but this will slow me down yet again.


----------



## striderstone

sexy as ****. Just sayin.


----------



## wthenshaw

Is that 4 pin molex necessary? Kind of makes it look messy, along with it not bring sewn


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Is that 4 pin molex necessary? Kind of makes it look messy, along with it not bring sewn


It seemed to overclock well without it also...but it doesn't really bother me and I'd rather make sure it has all the juice it needs.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

My board won't boot without it.


----------



## nateman_doo

Wanna see a practically zero restriction 690 waterblock?
http://s590.photobucket.com/user/nateman_doo/media/GTX 690/GTX690002_zps8f162325.jpg.html









Only made 1 of them for a very specific EVGA SRX build.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Wanna see a practically zero restriction 690 waterblock?
> http://s590.photobucket.com/user/nateman_doo/media/GTX 690/GTX690002_zps8f162325.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only made 1 of them for a very specific EVGA SRX build.


But surely that won't cool the cards specifically as well as the one cpachris has?


----------



## jrule2

After following this build for over a year now.. hard to believe it could still be going. But it never ceases to amaze, looking great Chris.

Probably been mentioned, but have you decided on whether you will reconnect those memory blocks/remove them/leave them unconnected?


----------



## Vvt1978

I was finally able to get enough time to try out installing the new delrin top for nateman_doo's chipset block. Unfortunately, I don't think the new inlet positions are going to work for me.







As you can see, my graphics card in PCIe slot 1 takes up 2 PCIe slots & partially covers the inlet holes. I've emailed nateman_doo about it. I think I'm going to need another top with different inlet/outlet positions.


----------



## striderstone

That was exactly my concern. I stuck with the 1st set of tops that he had because they worked for me...although I had to sand the CPU block down a bit but I am pretty sure that you could have just found a CPU block that works with it. I'm glad I didn't change tops to that. The hydro copper blocks are too fat.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> My board won't boot without it.


Really? What are you clocked at?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

4.5. 1.3 volts. I didn't even think that was for cpu power, and I think it might have been at stock when I tried.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> I was finally able to get enough time to try out installing the new delrin top for nateman_doo's chipset block. Unfortunately, I don't think the new inlet positions are going to work for me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, my graphics card in PCIe slot 1 takes up 2 PCIe slots & partially covers the inlet holes. I've emailed nateman_doo about it. I think I'm going to need another top with different inlet/outlet positions.


Use riser cards for your PCIe slots. So you lift and tilted you cards and show them as a display.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Use riser cards for your PCIe slots. So you lift and tilted you cards and show them as a display.


That's a huge compromise though.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> That's a huge compromise though.


I agree would rather use other or different top on the M/B Blocks...


----------



## striderstone

I'd say go back to the old top's. it's MUCH easier to mod the CPU block to ensure that it fits than it is to work around an ENTIRE video card. Just my opinion/experience.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I'd say go back to the old top's. it's MUCH easier to mod the CPU block to ensure that it fits than it is to work around an ENTIRE video card. Just my opinion/experience.


I guess it depends on the CPU block you have. Even if I had done something to make the original chipset block top fit....it would have been a nightmare to configure a loop with the chipset block hole angled and pointing right at the CPU block. Way to tight an area. It would have worked with my loop if the holes were not angled. If the openings had gone straight up....it would have worked with the Mips CPU block.

But if your GPU blocks are so thick that they cover the holes when they are put between the cards, then I guess you have no other options than to try and make the first top work for you. The board definitely created an interesting challenge for block designers.


----------



## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm going to need a clean pair of pants.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I guess it depends on the CPU block you have. Even if I had done something to make the original chipset block top fit....it would have been a nightmare to configure a loop with the chipset block hole angled and pointing right at the CPU block. Way to tight an area. It would have worked with my loop if the holes were not angled. If the openings had gone straight up....it would have worked with the Mips CPU block.
> 
> But if your GPU blocks are so thick that they cover the holes when they are put between the cards, then I guess you have no other options than to try and make the first top work for you. The board definitely created an interesting challenge for block designers.


That's true, my CPU block has both holes off to the opposite side of the board at to where the block is so I have a lot of room to play around with...I also don't have SUPER clean runs that a lot of people like. I spent too much money on components and I didn't really want to spend another 200-300 on fittings lol Although now it seems REALLY tempting. I might change all my fittings out when I upgrade my video cards in a year or so. Too bad BitsPower donesn't make the 3/4" fittings in blood red anymore







my build would be sexy as **** if they did.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thought I'd update everyone on performance of the nateman_doo chipset block. I can only share flow rate impact right now....not temp data. But more on that in a minute.
> 
> I'll spoil the surprise,and start off by saying that I had a nice pick-up in flow rate when I swapped out the Mips chipset block for the nateman_doo chipset block. Sorry. Late spoiler alert. But, I thought this would be a good time to summarize all the changes I've made to the loop that have impacted flow rate....and this block was one of them. So....now you're forced with the decision of whether to read all the gobbledy **** in the middle of this post....or skip straight to the end to see the latest impact. Your call.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So....a couple of months ago, I was getting about 0.95 gpm flow rate. While this is definitely not poor, it was a little surprising to me to see this as the max, since I had 4 pumps running. I had been expecting a little higher flow rate. Yeah...it's having to be pushed through a lot of blocks, as well as 7 radiators, .....but I mean....it's 4 pumps. Come on. Over the course of the last couple of months, I have made many changes to blocks, as well as the loop, and have recorded the impact of each. Time for a review:
> 
> *a)* placed the two AMS radiators in parallel flow. This added about 0.05 gpm to the flow rate, bringing it to about 1.00 gpm. Not huge....but every little bit is helpful.
> 
> *b)* added a valve right above the OU reservoir, so that the recirculation loop could be shut off. When this was added, and the valve was closed....it added 0.10 gpm to the flow rate, increasing it to 1.10 gpm. A nice little pickup. This clearly showed that the 7 radiator path of the loop was less restrictive than the waterblock portion of the path. When the coolant was forced to make a serial loop instead of allowing it to choose the path of least resistance, this forced more coolant through the waterblock portion. All testing since this change has been done with the valve closed.
> 
> *c)* I removed the Mips memory waterblocks from the loop layout. The blocks are still sitting on the RAM sticks...but not included in the loop layout. This increased the flow rate by 0.10 gpm, bringing it to 1.20 gpm. Getting better.
> 
> *d)* I swapped the Mips VRM waterblock, for the nateman_doo VRM waterblock. This increased the flow rate by 0.05 gpm, bringing it to 1.25 gpm.
> 
> *e)* And last but not least, I have now swapped the Mips chipset block for the nateman_doo chipset block. This increased the flow rate by another 0.10 gpm, bringing my new max flow rate to 1.35 gpm.
> 
> I'm sure some of you can probably get 1.35 gpm with just one or two pumps. But I think mine is slowed down somewhat from all the blocks, radiators and fittings. Even without the memory blocks, there are 8 other waterblocks in the loop right now, along with 7 radiators, 2 flow meters, etc. If I had to take a guess at the next most restrictive part of my loop, I would have to guess the 2x aquagrafx GTX 690 waterblocks. These blocks are huge and although I have not seen any specific flow rate tests done with them....some previous aquagrafx benchmarks for other cards showed they were very restrictive for video card blocks. I can only imagine that these are also. But....my temps are good, so I don't feel the need to search for other ways to improve flow rate even beyond 1.35 gpm. Actually, I'll probably put back on the Mips memory waterblocks because cooling is more than adequate at 1.25 gpm, which is what the max flow rate should drop back down to.
> 
> And since the pumps will be running at reduced speeds for the majority of the time anyway....this should be fine.
> 
> Now...here is one more shot of everything running again in it's current state.....before I have to tear it down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Areca card needs to be sent in for servicing. Could not recover from the firmware upgrade. Won't load a BIOS now. And since I've made some pretty substantial modifications to the card...I'm not going to hold my breath that they will cover it under warranty. But...we'll see. I'd actually love to see their faces when they open the package and find my custom water cooled solution and copper heatsinks all over their card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can still work on some wiring/stickers/etc while card is away....but this will slow me down yet again.


Think of all the hours of work that you have put into the build, and this foto here shows the centerpiece of the build, that appears to be near its end - the beginning of the end of the beginning of the end.
Its a statement of your self - and values and choices - made over the last year and some months - of your build aesthetics and functions.
This build is the Biltmore estate of pc builds.
Its beyond me how you've managed to lead a life with children and now a wife and have found the time to keep us all entertained with this incredibly detailed thread - are you ever going back to work ? and how bout dem Sooners !

I know youi're not going to quit playing with the build, but what do you have in mind to do next ?

A trip to Disneyland is always an option


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I know youi're not going to quit playing with the build, but what do you have in mind to do next ?
> 
> A trip to Disneyland is always an option


Hahaha.....lol. I've actually been to DisneyLand (or Universal Stuidios) twice while building this already. And two cruises.









But thanks for the kind words.


----------



## nateman_doo

updates?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> updates?


Loop already taken apart....waiting on RMA approval from Areca. Will be interested to see if they honor the warranty since I've taken the fan off and added a waterblock.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

What happened to the RAID card?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> ...Areca card needs to be sent in for servicing. Could not recover from the firmware upgrade. Won't load a BIOS now. And since I've made some pretty substantial modifications to the card...I'm not going to hold my breath that they will cover it under warranty. But...we'll see. I'd actually love to see their faces when they open the package and find my custom water cooled solution and copper heatsinks all over their card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can still work on some wiring/stickers/etc while card is away....but this will slow me down yet again.


----------



## 1337LutZ

They should cover the warranty as the defect is not related to the WB.


----------



## PMPN8EZ

cpachris, I wanted to ask if your case was powder coated "crimson" by caselabs. Or did you get that done somewhere else? Also is nateman_doo no longer selling the waterblocks for the ASRock motherboard? Thanks.


----------



## Vvt1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Loop already taken apart....waiting on RMA approval from Areca. Will be interested to see if they honor the warranty since I've taken the fan off and added a waterblock.


I probably would take off the custom heatsinks & waterblock before sending it in for RMA. Most times, the way they fix problems with a card is to just replace it with a new one. In which case, all your custom mods would be gone.


----------



## Wibble360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMPN8EZ*
> 
> cpachris, I wanted to ask if your case was powder coated "crimson" by caselabs. Or did you get that done somewhere else? Also is nateman_doo no longer selling the waterblocks for the ASRock motherboard? Thanks.


Custom colour done by the guys at CaseLabs as a one-off, if I remember correctly - see the thread's first page.

Am gutted that this build is close to being wrapped up but looking forward to the promised Christmas BBBB 1.1 update!


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> But....while you have one end of the connector off...you have some new options available for sleeving the cables. Remember that these wires are thinner and narrower than normal SATA cables. And...since you have the connector completely off of one end, you can actually slide on some regular size sleeve over the cable. You don't have to use the SATA size sleeving! SATA size sleeving is designed a little larger than it really needs to be...so that it can make it over the bulky connector at the end. Well.....without the connector on at the end...you can just slide normal size sleeving on the cable.
> 
> First...I used some white electrical tape to cover the black cable. This helps from getting any color bleed through when using white sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I inched the normal size MDPC-X white sleeve over the cable and cut it to length.


cpachris, is that the MDPC small sleeving (the ones used for 24 pin and other PCIe cables)? is it just me, or they look bigger than what I usually see.


----------



## Big Elf

That looks like the MDPC-X small sleeve stretched to the limit to me.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1337LutZ*
> 
> They should cover the warranty as the defect is not related to the WB.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vvt1978*
> 
> I probably would take off the custom heatsinks & waterblock before sending it in for RMA. Most times, the way they fix problems with a card is to just replace it with a new one. In which case, all your custom mods would be gone.


Well, the RMA form was approved and the card is in California as we speak. Still unsure of what they will do when they see how modded the card is. I didn't want to pull the heatsink all the way off...and give them a reason for denying any coverage. Before sending in, I removed the waterblock from the card, and replaced it with the old fan that came with the card. But I didn't pull off all of the copper stick-on heatsinks that I had coated the card with. If they send me a new card, the most work I'll have to do is to re-Dremel the heatsink fins so that the waterblock will fit. Not a big deal. Can't wait to see what they think.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PMPN8EZ*
> 
> cpachris, I wanted to ask if your case was powder coated "crimson" by caselabs. Or did you get that done somewhere else? Also is nateman_doo no longer selling the waterblocks for the ASRock motherboard? Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> Custom colour done by the guys at CaseLabs as a one-off, if I remember correctly - see the thread's first page. Am gutted that this build is close to being wrapped up but looking forward to the promised Christmas BBBB 1.1 update!


Yes, CaseLabs did the color for me. I picked out a Prismatic Powder color after getting lots of sample colors directly from Prismatic. Prismatic will send you up to 5 color samples at a time. Highly recommend getting samples before picking a color, because you really can't tell much about the finish from the online color samples. Get the real thing sent to you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> cpachris, is that the MDPC small sleeving (the ones used for 24 pin and other PCIe cables)? is it just me, or they look bigger than what I usually see.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> That looks like the MDPC-X small sleeve stretched to the limit to me.


Yep. Small sleeve (same as used for individual wires in the 24 pin) stretched around the slim SATA cable. Although I've also done several regular size cables with the SATA sleeve....and I like those also. Was really just having fun experimenting.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Well, the RMA form was approved and the card is in California as we speak. Still unsure of what they will do when they see how modded the card is. I didn't want to pull the heatsink all the way off...and give them a reason for denying any coverage. Before sending in, I removed the waterblock from the card, and replaced it with the old fan that came with the card. But I didn't pull off all of the copper stick-on heatsinks that I had coated the card with. If they send me a new card, the most work I'll have to do is to re-Dremel the heatsink fins so that the waterblock will fit. Not a big deal. Can't wait to see what they think.
> 
> Yes, CaseLabs did the color for me. I picked out a Prismatic Powder color after getting lots of sample colors directly from Prismatic. Prismatic will send you up to 5 color samples at a time. Highly recommend getting samples before picking a color, because you really can't tell much about the finish from the online color samples. Get the real thing sent to you.
> 
> Yep. Small sleeve (same as used for individual wires in the 24 pin) stretched around the slim SATA cable. Although I've also done several regular size cables with the SATA sleeve....and I like those also. Was really just having fun experimenting.


Do you think it was more expensive having the case powdercoated by Caselabs than having it done somewhere locally?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Do you think it was more expensive having the case powdercoated by Caselabs than having it done somewhere locally?


The local powder shop I used here to do my radiators and some brackets....gave me a price that was cheaper than CaseLabs. But I was worried that they wouldn't properly mask everything that was needed. The way they TH10 is designed, you really have a lot of prep work before painting if you want to do it the right way. So.....in the end, it was worth it to me to pay a small premium and have CaseLabs do it for me. I know they felt that the two-step process used to create my color was challenging. In the end...I think I got a great deal.

I chose white for the interior, ...not only because I thought it would look sharp, ...but also this allowed me to pick up additional accessories after the fact without having to find someone to powdercoat the accessories to match the outside of the case. Accessory bars, brackets, etc.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The local powder shop I used here to do my radiators and some brackets....gave me a price that was cheaper than CaseLabs. But I was worried that they wouldn't properly mask everything that was needed. The way they TH10 is designed, you really have a lot of prep work before painting if you want to do it the right way. So.....in the end, it was worth it to me to pay a small premium and have CaseLabs do it for me. I know they felt that the two-step process used to create my color was challenging. In the end...I think I got a great deal.
> 
> I chose white for the interior, ...not only because I thought it would look sharp, ...but also this allowed me to pick up additional accessories after the fact without having to find someone to powdercoat the accessories to match the outside of the case. Accessory bars, brackets, etc.


Interesting. Aren't the metal pegs that pop into the clips the only thing you really have to worry about covering up when powder coating the outer panels of a case though? (And the screw threads for the window I suppose)


----------



## nateman_doo

Updates? the suspense is killing me.


----------



## stren

I too would like updates in the form of two Mars IV with custom NMD blocks


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Interesting. Aren't the metal pegs that pop into the clips the only thing you really have to worry about covering up when powder coating the outer panels of a case though? (And the screw threads for the window I suppose)


Yeah, it could be done I guess. Would be much more work if you were going to have someone do the inside...with all those pegs, but I guess the outside panels could be done with not a ton of prep work. Some more threads on all the front faceplates, I guess, ...but still doable. I also had them do my PSU casing and my Aquaero faceplate, and my Lamptron FC8 faceplate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Updates? the suspense is killing me.


The Areca folks in Chino, CA ended up sending the card to the mother ship for repair/replacement. They said turnaround time would be 2 or 3 weeks. Sigh. It's been 1 week since they sent it on, so I've got another week or two of waiting.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> I too would like updates in the form of two Mars IV with custom NMD blocks


that....or the GTX793 single slot 3 gpu on the card with 12GB of vram. isn't that next?


----------



## nateman_doo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> I too would like updates in the form of two Mars IV with custom NMD blocks


Would you believe I had 2 of them in my hands last year and someone wanted me to make blocks for them? Sadly the customer sold the cards. Sweetest peace of hardware I ever held in my hand (maybe a tie with the elusive Voodoo cards)


----------



## nateman_doo

I hope you got the card back?


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Wow, another Okie on here. Dont know how I have missed this giant build log. From what I have had time to look at its awesome! Much better than some orange and black.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> I hope you got the card back?


Card is still not back. It's been 4 weeks today! Anxious to finish.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> Wow, another Okie on here. Dont know how I have missed this giant build log. From what I have had time to look at its awesome! Much better than some orange and black.


Hey Skitz! Always glad to see another Okie representin' here on OCN. And yes....crimson over orange any day of the football season.







My wife is a Cowboy fan...but I've talked her into pink and black for my next build for her....instead of the dreaded orange and black.


----------



## wthenshaw

Orange and black started out pretty nice but after it became over used and started seeing new ones every day I just think bleeerhhh. Polished copper on either black or white (not both) now that's something!


----------



## cpachris

Cleaning out my office while waiting on raid card. Came across this little gem....



Lol.....I can remember when this was a nice card. I've kept it in a bag for years now.


----------



## wthenshaw

Had the same card


----------



## zemco999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Cleaning out my office while waiting on raid card. Came across this little gem....
> 
> 
> 
> Lol.....I can remember when this was a nice card. I've kept it in a bag for years now.


I have a GTS 8400 as my secondary monitor card right now


----------



## cpachris

FINALLY got notification from FedEx that my Areca RAID card is in transit and expected to arrive on Friday. That will be almost 7 weeks since I first sent it in. Not a speedy RMA...but I guess I've heard of even worse horror stories. So....I'll count my blessings.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> FINALLY got notification from FedEx that my Areca RAID card is in transit and expected to arrive on Friday. That will be almost 7 weeks since I first sent it in. Not a speedy RMA...but I guess I've heard of even worse horror stories. So....I'll count my blessings.


Good news Chris. 7 weeks doing nothing but cleaning up your office "ha ha" .


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> FINALLY got notification from FedEx that my Areca RAID card is in transit and expected to arrive on Friday. That will be almost 7 weeks since I first sent it in. Not a speedy RMA...but I guess I've heard of even worse horror stories. So....I'll count my blessings.


Indeed. If I remember right, this whole build started out with a long wait........didn't it?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Indeed. If I remember right, this whole build started out with a long wait........didn't it?


I've had lots of delays during this build, that's for sure. Some self-imposed....and some that were beyond my control. But...I'm ready to make this beast my daily box. It's staring at me....pleading with me...whispering quietly.....use me. use me. use me.


----------



## cpachris

FedEx package with raid card was lost in the winter storms for a few days, but finally arrived yesterday. There is an ominous note printed on the RMA sheet about "improper repair by customer". If they kept my card for 7 weeks and didn't even repair it....there will be some epic rants coming. Working on installing it back in the loop right now.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> FedEx package with raid card was lost in the winter storms for a few days, but finally arrived yesterday. There is an ominous note printed on the RMA sheet about "improper repair by customer". If they kept my card for 7 weeks and didn't even repair it....there will be some epic rants coming. Working on installing it back in the loop right now.


Had to look up that word "rants" yes got it "ahum oke not good







,







" hope for you the repair it.


----------



## Barefooter

I hope it works Chris! After SEVEN weeks it better work!


----------



## Panther Al

*crosses his fingers for ya*


----------



## cpachris

It's alive! The message on the RMA sheet that was returned to me read "Improper repair by customer, cannot repair". I contacted Tekram, which is who I purchased the card from, and they told me that Areca had deemed the card to have the warranty violated for "improper thermal conditions". This cracks me up....because the "thermal conditions" on the card were improved greatly when I took off their loud dinky little fan and put the waterblock on it. But....I guess I can understand why they would have to stick with the story that this violates the warranty. Otherwise...anybody could do anything to their cards and they would still have to honor the warranty.

So....although they have deemed my card out of warranty....they went ahead and fixed the issue anyway. Out of the goodness of their hearts.







But next time I have to send the card in, it will be a fee for service arrangement instead of warranty. I can live with that. I think they went out of their way to make things right, and I appreciate them for that.

Shout-outs to both Areca and Tekram. Thanks guys.

I'm going to tackle a short bullet list of things I can get done over the next 10 days (before holidays) and then do a final photo shoot of what will become BBBB 1.0. Then I plan to just enjoy using this thing on a daily basis for a month or so.....before I start upgrading it to version 2.0.


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm going to tackle a short bullet list of things I can get done over the next 10 days (before holidays) and then do a final photo shoot of what will become BBBB 1.0. Then I plan to just enjoy using this thing on a daily basis for a month or so.....before I start upgrading it to version 2.0.


Looking forward to that


----------



## luciddreamer124

Boy that has to be a relief! I'm pumped for what's coming in the future


----------



## Citra

Can't wait!


----------



## cpachris

I never got around to making custom stickers for the little 40mm baby fans.....so here goes nothing.

Used the same process I documented previously in this post....so refer back there if you want to see how it's done. First I started with the same color scheme and logo assets that I had previously, and did some resizing. There just isn't room on the 40mm fan stickers to do anything other than the OU logo, so I took off the NoiseBlocker logo and "BBBB" script. Then I printed off a new page on a sheet of white vinyl with adhesive back, and laminated with a clear overcoat.



The first page I printed was off on the color. I'm using a different printer than I did last time, and the color must not be calibrated the same. Had to adjust the RGB values of the color I'm using to get a good match for the powdercoat. Previously I used 160, 0, 40 with my Canon printer. This Epson printer required 140, 0, 28 to get about the same result once it was printed.

Then I used my Papershapers holepunches to cut perfect circles. You can find these in craft stores or online. The 1 1/2 inch circle works great for most 120mm fans....although those of you with GT's will need something even larger to cover that hub....



...and the 3/4 inch circle fits the 40mm fans perfectly.



Then you just peel off the backing and stick where you want. Here is the back of the computer....



Not sure why I'm missing a screw here on one of the fans. Never noticed that before. Will fix.....



And I used this opportunity to reorient the stickers on some of the other fans now that I'm done tinkering with layout.





Moving on......


----------



## wthenshaw

Attention to detail is over 9000!!!


----------



## cpachris

About 4 or 5 months ago, in a fit of rage, I removed one of the drives from my 2x disk RAID0 boot volume. The X79 RAID0 was a little flaky on this board, and I kept having one or both drives intermittently get marked as 'failed' and would have to remove the drive from the array. The drive would always scan with no erros, and if I would reload firmware and do a secure wipe, I could then add it back and recreate my volume. This would of course require a reinstallation of Windows. Even with a recovery image....this got tiring quickly. So...I stopped using 2 drives for my boot drive awhile back. Haven't had a problem since. But...I've had this one drive sitting there doing nothing. Time to put it to use.

The LSI chip on this board adds 8 SATA3 ports. I've been using 4x of them in a RAID0 array, that will be utilized for scratch disks, page files, and other stuff that I don't care about backing up...and fast disk access is a plus. I decided to add the unused SSD to this array. First....needed to sleeve it in white MDPC-X to match the other SATA cables in this array....



Then....plug it into the next SATA port....



....and recreate the volume from within Windows. Adding the 5th SSD got me a nice little speed bump for sequential read/writes. Here are the before and after AS SSD benchmark screenies....

Before - 4 drives



After - 5 drives



Think I'm done with the storage now for version 1.0. I'm going to start backing up all the files from my old computer onto some portable drives...and online. Will take awhile because I have about 2TB of stuff I need to move. Here is a summary of the 3 volumes I've ended up with for version 1.0:

*Boot Volume* - 1x Vertex4 256GB SSD on native SATA3 port
*Storage Volume* - 10x Vertex4 512GB SSD's on an Areca 1882ix-16 raid card
*Scratch Volume* - 5x Vertex4 256GB SSD's on the LSI cihp. I'm using Windows to manage the striped volume.

I'm on the lookout for a good deal on one or two more 512GB SSD's. I want to expand my RAID5 array by one more drive....and also have a hot spare for automatic rebuilding in case I have a drive fail. Awhile back I even recreated my SATA power harness with additional connections for more drives in the future. Let me know if you have a line on some good deals...or a used one that is in good shape.


----------



## cpachris

Re-plumbed the board back to my preferred layout which included the memory blocks and acrylic tubing on the top side of the board.....



The other changes I finished up today were that I put back in all 8 sticks of memory. I had been running 4 x 8GB for 32GB of memory for awhile now. But I'm going to see if I can keep my same CPU overclocks I reached on 32GB of memory....with all 64GB installed. Those with real sharp eyes may also notice that I redid the homemade backplate for the Areaca RAID card. The first one was buckling a little bit near the edge where it was just a touch too long. I changed the size of this one just a little bit, and made it out of some thicker/stiffer material than last time. I used the same 3m carbon fiber wrap I used on the first one to cover it. Here are a few more shots of the board all put back together.....











Before I took everything apart, I also did a run through to make sure everything was still wired up and working correctly.

- Front panel headphones / check
- Front panel microphone / check
- Front panel USB 3.0 ports / check
- All LED strip lighting / check
- Cold cathode lighting of reservoir / check
- All 53 fans / check
- Aquaero Units / check
- BluRay unit / check
- Card reader / fail

The card reader lights up like it has power....but does not recognize any cards I insert....and when I plug in an external hard drive to the USB port....it says the drive is not formatted, when it really is. Weird. Not sure if the issue is the card reader unit itself, or the USB connections. You may remember that to connect the card reader, I'm using two different adapter/extensions. The card reader is meant to be plugged into a 20pin motherboard header. My 20pin motherboard header is already being used by the front panel USB jacks. So, what I've done is use 20pin motherboard to 2 separate male connections adapter. This is hidden in the pedestal. It's still not close to long enough at this point, so I then use an extender (female to male) that comes out of the back of the pedestal and plugs into two of the USB 3.0 ports on the back I/O panel. But....not working right now...so...I either have a loose connection down in the pedestal that I can't get to.....or the card reader is bust. I've had a bunch of problems with similar units over the years....so I'd like to blame the card reader. Will probably order another since they are relatively cheap....but check the connections next time I have the pedestal removed.

Before I fill everything back up and turn it on again, I have a few more nits I'm working on in the plumbing layout. Nothing big....but I've put off working on them until I had a reason to drain the system. So...now is my chance. More tomorrow......


----------



## FannBlade

Man nice color scheme! Looks amazing.


----------



## seross69

Nice


----------



## Electrocutor

If it were me:
I'd connect the card reader/USB combo via internal USB 3 and use an adapter on the other case USB ports into the USB 2 connectors.

I'd wait until x99 is out to do version 2.0, since it shouldn't be all that long of a wait.


----------



## mandrix

All the copper accessories make this one of my favorite motherboard looks.


----------



## cpachris

Pictures of progress!

Today I'm working on making the PA2 brackets prettier. As a reminder....I have 12 PA2's connected to 2x Aquaero 5's. For several reasons, I had decided that I wanted to mount these oriented the opposite way that the standard Aquacomputer bracket mounts them. I also wanted to line them up 6 across instead of stacking 3 on top of 3, and I wanted to place them directly underneath a bank of fans. For all these reasons and more, I needed to build a custom mounting bracket to suit my needs. I ended up making two custom brackets out of an aluminum strip and some aluminum blocks. Pictures and dialog for the brackets can be found in these posts:



Spoiler: Click for links to PA2 Bracket Posts!



- Prototype!
- Mount the bracket
- Mini Aquabus Connectors
- Almost Done!
- ...and finished the PSU side also!



Today I'm just trying to pretty up the brackets, since they have been in their unfinished aluminum form since I made them. Originally, I had been planning on having these powdercoated white to match the case. Then, I had seen a forum member here put together a copper bracket that I though looked cool, and gave that consideration. I've also thought about making something out of acrylic and lighting it up. After further consideration, I'm gong to go with a white carbon fiber wrap. The brackets are in the upper portion of the case, where there really isn't any copper to speak of. It's all crimson/white right now, and I think I'm going to keep it that way. I opted to use the carbon fiber, instead of powdercoating, just to give the bracket a little bit of contrast from the back of the case. Here goes....

I have two of these brackets. One on the motherboard side and one on the PSU side. Here is a picture of my bracket on the motherboard side after I've stripped off all the PA2's.



And here it is removed from the aluminum legs I used to attach it to the case....



Wrapping with the vinyl carbon wrap is quite easy...and kind of fun.



Then I used a small screwdriver to punch holes through the wrap where the screws will go....



...and below is a closeup to show the texture of the carbon fiber wrap.



Here is the mounting strip back in the case and attached to the legs.



In this picture, look at the screws for the two PA2's on the left, vs the two PA2's on the right. As long as I was going to have to screw these all back in...I decided to play with different screws. The chrome ones on the left are what came with the PA2's. They are sharp....but I really don't have any chrome, or silver, at all in this build. So...the ones on the right are some black M3 screws. Which do you think looks better?



For this build....I though the black screws looked better. Cleaner. They just kind of blend in and disappear. Almost makes the PA2's look like they are floating on the bracket. The chrome screws stood out too much and called attention to themselves. If I had chrome in the build that might be desirable. But not in this one. Here is a picture of all blacks screws.



When I took all the PA2's off and undid the wiring, I also decided to go ahead and label the connectors. I spent a lot of time working on my Aquasuite curve controllers, and didn't want to accidently switch which PA2 something was plugged into....and have the curve working differently. I've done this in some other areas also...but I went with just a simple number system and labeled each connector 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6. Now...I can just look at the connector and know exactly which PA2 to plug it back into. Some of these connections terminate down in the pedestal....so the last thing you want to do is have to trace them all back to their source.











You barely notice the number labels once they are plugged back into the PA2's.....



All done! Here is a pic of everything back together and in the case.



...and a picture of the two Aquaero units controlling everything.



....AND...as long as I have the camera out....a couple more parting shots of my prettied up brackets. An improvement....me thinks!





Now...I have to do the same thing to the bracket on the PSU side of the case. Probably won't repeat pictures for that...but after I finish that I have a few more tweaks to make.....

I've been letting my online backup run. It's now backed up 540GB of data....and COX communications has already sent me an email warning about my usage for the month. They offer unlimited backup and storage with the plan I'm on....but apparently they don't want you to use all their bandwidth up when you initially backup. Grrrrrrr.....


----------



## Barefooter

Yes the black screws are better than chrome for this build. I like how they blend in.


----------



## Big Elf

I use a Dymo labeller to number some of my connectors. I've found a dab of clear nail varnish on the label helps it to stay in place.

I agree, the black screws look better, button heat allen screws might look even better.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Black.


----------



## cpachris

I finished up the PSU side PA2 bracket. It got the same treatment as the one on the motherboard side. White carbon fiber vinyl wrap and swap out the chrome screws for black ones.....





After I had finished this up and was working on these pictures... I started to notice how much the little silver component on the PA2's stood out, now that the screws were black and the brackets was white. Look at picture above, and you'll see it also. Toward the bottom of each PA2 there is a little silver component right beside the heatsink. Never bothered me before...but now that I'm getting rid of the other chrome......and I've got this Black Sharpie in my hand.....



There. That's better.....











And while looking at the pictures from yesterday....I also noticed that 2 of my six screws over on the mounting brackets were silver, and the other 4 were black. It's kind of funny how you will notice some things in pictures...that you tend to gloss right over when it's right before your eyes. Anyway....can't leave this like it is......



Viola! Better.



And....while I'm on the subject of looking for 'black' in my pictures, I'll point something else out. No one made any comments about it in my pictures from a couple of days ago, but I had to use a white fitting on my motherboard. I'm one black C03 fitting away from having enough for my current loop layout. Had to throw this white one in there on an interim basis.



But never fear....FrozenCPU got a little more of my money yesterday and I have a new black C03 fitting on the way. I'll swap it out next time I have the loop taken apart. Also in this batch of stuff from FCPU and Newegg:

- New USB 3.0 card reader
- New heatgun (my little purple wonder is lost!)
- More 3m Di-noc carbon fiber vinyl wrap
- Displayport to Mini-Displayport cable
- Mechanical Keyboard
- Red Illuminated Vandal switch

The new card reader doesn't terminate in a 20-pin connector like my current one. That will allow me to get rid of one of the adapters I'm currently using. We'll see if it works any better. It's a Koutech. Anybone have any experiences, good or bad, with this brand?

I'm also going to try the Displayport connector on my GTX690's instead of DVI.

And...some of you will remember that I already switched out my case power switch with a red illuminated one several months ago. Why the new switch? Well...as it turns out...the one I put in several months ago was a latching switch, instead of a momentary one.







So....although it works...I have to press it in to start the computer....and then press it again to release it. Not a biggie....but annoying enough to replace.

More later....


----------



## cpachris

Fixing some small nits in my loop layout today. See the *before* picture below. This is the section in front of the case where I have some pass through connections down into the pedestal radiator loop.



One of the things I want to change in the old layout above, is how the temperature probes come up underneath the reservoir. I don't like having the wires come out in front of the radiator. Distracting. Also, the tubing needs to be just a slightly different length, ...in order to not put so much pressure on the d-plug connection. It had previously caused one side of the connection to not sit flush.

So...I moved the fitting that secures the temperature probes from underneath the reservoir....to back by the d-plug underneath the radiator. Now the wires don't have to come around in front of the radiator. I also switched a couple of the compression fittings from rotary...to non-rotary...to give it a little cleaner look. I replaced the 30 degree angle fitting that is in the past from the reservoir to the pedestal....with a 90 degree fitting so that the tubing doesn't have a bend in it.

Using a non-rotary compression fitting on the bottom of the reservoir blocked the LED hole that I was utilizing for the Aquaero RGB LED coming into the bottom of the reservoir to light it. So instead, I replaced the other stop fitting on the bottom of the reservoir with a clear rubber stop fitting that had a LED hole in it. We'll see if it lets in as much light...or has any leak issues.

Here is the *after* picture below....



If you look closely underneath the radiator...you can just make out the temp probes in their new location. Not big changes....but an improvement. I like it. Here is another before/after from a slightly different perspective....



Spoiler: Before









Spoiler: After







And a couple more pictures of the revamped area...





Guess I'm going to fill it back up and leak test and then see if putting back in all 64GB of memory impacted my overclock profiles at all. More soon!


----------



## cpachris

No leaks....up and running. It's alive! But to get the 64GB of memory stable, I had to drop the speed back down to 1600, from 2133. Same as last time I tried this...not sure why I thought it would be different. Anyway, I'm running some benchmarks and stress tests...and I'm seeing large drops in benchmark scores now that I have 64GB of memory installed. When running 3D mark, any of the tests that utilize the CPU instead of the GPU's....are significantly lower when I have 8 sticks of RAM installed instead of 4 sticks. When I run Intel Burn Test, the gigaflops are WAY lower also. I'm going to run a few more...and then run the same tests again with only 4 sticks installed for some definitive proof.

Does anybody have any experience with this? Maybe there is a setting in the BIOS I need to flip to get 8 sticks working smoothly? I'd love your thoughts....and also any other tests or benchmarks I can run both ways to see the impact. Thanks...


----------



## m1ndb3nd3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> No leaks....up and running. It's alive! But to get the 64GB of memory stable, I had to drop the speed back down to 1600, from 2133. Same as last time I tried this...not sure why I thought it would be different. Anyway, I'm running some benchmarks and stress tests...and I'm seeing large drops in benchmark scores now that I have 64GB of memory installed. When running 3D mark, any of the tests that utilize the CPU instead of the GPU's....are significantly lower when I have 8 sticks of RAM installed instead of 4 sticks. When I run Intel Burn Test, the gigaflops are WAY lower also. I'm going to run a few more...and then run the same tests again with only 4 sticks installed for some definitive proof.
> 
> Does anybody have any experience with this? Maybe there is a setting in the BIOS I need to flip to get 8 sticks working smoothly? I'd love your thoughts....and also any other tests or benchmarks I can run both ways to see the impact. Thanks...


pictures or it didn't happen. Are you running the most recent bios version? Can you test a different 64GB of ram, maybe it's a problem with that vendor.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> No leaks....up and running. It's alive! But to get the 64GB of memory stable, I had to drop the speed back down to 1600, from 2133. Same as last time I tried this...not sure why I thought it would be different. Anyway, I'm running some benchmarks and stress tests...and I'm seeing large drops in benchmark scores now that I have 64GB of memory installed. When running 3D mark, any of the tests that utilize the CPU instead of the GPU's....are significantly lower when I have 8 sticks of RAM installed instead of 4 sticks. When I run Intel Burn Test, the gigaflops are WAY lower also. I'm going to run a few more...and then run the same tests again with only 4 sticks installed for some definitive proof.
> 
> Does anybody have any experience with this? Maybe there is a setting in the BIOS I need to flip to get 8 sticks working smoothly? I'd love your thoughts....and also any other tests or benchmarks I can run both ways to see the impact. Thanks...


You probably need to add more QPI/Vtt voltage or whatever Asrock calls it. You might also have to bump the DRAM voltage up a little.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1ndb3nd3r*
> 
> Are you running the most recent bios version? Can you test a different 64GB of ram, maybe it's a problem with that vendor.


I'm still on 2.80, but I've resisted upgrading because some people had issues with 3.0 when it was released, and I think 3.0 and later was primarily Ivy-E support. Another 64GB of ram?







I keep extra parts laying around...but another 64GB of ram??!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You probably need to add more QPI/Vtt voltage or whatever Asrock calls it. You might also have to bump the DRAM voltage up a little.


I've already had to play with voltages to get them stable. There is probably room for more since temps are good...but I feel like I'm missing something much bigger than that. The performance decrease is fairly significant when put 8 ram sticks in instead of 4. Even if I were running 4 sticks at 1600....the decrease in performance when I put in 8 sticks at the same speed is significant. Something's not right....


----------



## mandrix

Well something else could be going on. But some boards/RAM like a lot of tweaking and some don't.
My current mobo/RAM combo on a bad day requires tons of patience and manual input to get the advertised OC timings AND a command rate of 1. Other times, no problem.


----------



## fast_fate

I'm no expert in RAM power requirements for sure.
BUT the timings are crucial for performance.
I know I had dramas get my 64 Gb 2400 MHz kit to run at 2400 on RIVE.
Best I clocked it at was 2430 - I think It's too much of a resorce draw from / for cpu (3960x)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






The less RAM installed the higher I could get the clocks - both CPU and Memory.
However that didn't necessarily increase performance.
This run on RealBench 1.1 - which was / is my current best had CPU and Memory clocks much lower and with just 16 Gb RAM but got much better scores









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I find the Asus RealBench to be a very good real world tester.
It certainly will verify if your overclocks are any good or will fail the testing.

Loving the build - thanks for sharing in such detail.
Many build logs go by the wayside - congrats for keeping up with the updates we love getting


----------



## cpachris

Thanks for the advice guys. I ended up finding a post from awhile back in the Asrock AE11 motherboard thread, where he had a similar problem, and fixed it by manually setting the channel and rank interleave in the BIOS settings. I looked at my settings, and there were set to AUTO. I manually changed the channel interleaving from AUTO to 4-way, and I manually changed the rank interleaving from AUTO to 8-way. This appears to have fixed whatever was causing the problem. It's back to blazing fast again. To show you significant a difference it makes, check out these screen shots for the AIDA64 memory benchmark:

Before (below)...



After (below).....



Summary of screenshots:

Read: 11,907 MB/s (before).....44,039 MB/s (after)
Write: 11,793 MB/s (before).....45,192 MB/s (after)

So as you can see....the memory is operating 4 times faster than it was....just by changing these two settings in the BIOS. I guess this board needs those settings for handling this volume of memory....or 8 sticks of memory....,, and that the XMP profile was not bothering to set it. I don't have to manually set these if I have only 4 sticks of memory installed. Just when I have all 8 sticks installed. I'm unsure though if the issue is related to the amount of memory (32GB vs 64GB) or the number of sticks installed (4 sticks vs 8 sticks).

I also re-ran my 3DMARK11 score, and the physics and combined portions of the scores almost doubled when I flipped these settings. So, if you have this board, and have a lot of memory, you might play with these two settings in the BIOS.

Here are some more descriptions I found online about channel and rank interleaving:



Spoiler: Channel Interleaving Info



Whether the CPU divides memory blocks and spreads
contiguousportionsofdata acrossinterleavedchannelstoenable
simultaneous read operations. This can be one of the following:
• Auto-The CPU determines what interleaving is done.
• 1 Way-Some channel interleaving is used.
• 2 Way
• 3 Way
• 4 Way-The maximum amount of channel interleaving
is used.





Spoiler: Rank Interleaving Info



Whether the CPU interleaves physical ranks of memory so that
one rank can be accessed while another is being refreshed. This
can be one of the following:
• Auto-The CPU determines what interleaving is done.
• 1 Way-Some rank interleaving is used.
• 2 Way
• 4 Way
• 8 Way-The maximum amount of rank interleaving is
used.


----------



## Big Elf

That's a pretty amazing performance boost, well done for tracking down the solution.


----------



## mandrix

Nice.


----------



## cpachris

Now that I'm through my memory issues, and settled on the full 8 sticks and 64GB of memory....on to the next item. Santa (the postman) visited today and brought some of the goodies I ordered the other day.

First up....my new mechanical keyboard...



I've never bought a mechanical keyboard before, so I did a lot of research online on the different switch types, and decided that the Cherry MX Brown switches were what I wanted to try. I liked the idea of having a little tactile feedback on the switch, but wasn't sure I liked the idea of loud clicks like the Blue and Black switches had. It came down to either red or brown...and I opted for brown. I also had originally selected a Ducky Shine 3 as the keyboard I wanted, but was unable to find ANY online with ten-key and brown switches.

So then I found this Cooler Master keyboard, and ended up really liking the way they snuck in a ten-key on the side, but still made it much narrower than a standard ten-key keyboard by removing some of the keys from between the letters and the numbers. This one will fit well in the slide out drawer in my office where the computer will ultimately be. Right now, there is precious little room for my mouse pad because of the full-size keyboard. This will definitely fit better....as long as I don't miss the keys that are left out. We'll see....



My initial reaction to the keyboard as I started using it was that I was surprised that the tactile bump on the brown switches wasn't a little more significant. But it still felt good, and as I've used it a little bit more...I'm growing more accustomed to the point during the downpress where the tactile feedback is received. The more you use it, the more in tune you are to the switches feedback....and the more you like it. At least that's how it's been for me so far. I'll enjoy this one for awhile, and next time I buy a new keyboard I may try the red or blue, or even black switches....to see which I prefer. What I should do is find a place that has the same keyboard in all different switch types, ...and go and play with them all in person. But for now....I'm happy with these brown switches and would recommend them.

I also got my new/replacement card reader.



Without actually installing it in the pedestal I've plugged it into the USB 3.0 slots on the back of the board that it would be plugged into, and run some tests. Everything seems to work fine! Reading/copying pictures from my camera's compact flash card is WAY faster with this reader than it is for the USB 2.0 reader in my old computer. I will definitely enjoy this.



But to install it where the old one is, I'm going to need to remove the main case from the pedestal. My pass through connections for all the wiring, and the d-plug connections for the plumbing definitely make removing the case from the pedestal an easier job than it would have been....but it's still not a small quick job. So...that's what I'll be working on tonight. Hopefully my missing Bitspower fitting will come while I have it drained so I can replace that one white fitting I have in the motherboard section of the loop.

Almost done....with version 1.0 of the BBBB!


----------



## wthenshaw

Ah, I've been looking at the quickfire tk brown mx for myself after Christmas,

If you want the proper bump then you want yourself an MX Blue. Red are easier to depress than brown, and brown are easier than black.

I had a MX Red for a while but found far to easy to press in making it better for typing rather than gaming.


----------



## zemco999

Comes join the club







http://www.overclock.net/t/538389/mechanical-keyboard-club-now-powered-by-koalas

Love my brown switches, nice choice







Merry Christmas!


----------



## nateman_doo

BTW, how did the chipset waterblock do? You were going to do a comparison a while back before that other card needed to be RMA'd


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> BTW, how did the chipset waterblock do? You were going to do a comparison a while back before that other card needed to be RMA'd


I haven't tried to set voltage back to what I was using for the tests, but I'd say it performs well. Similar temps to the MIPS blocks, but better flow rate. Thumbs up!

I've drained and torn down for what I hope is the last time for a few months.







. Replacing the card reader in the pedestal and that one white fitting in the motherboard loop. Also will replace the latching vandal switch with a momentary one.



I moved all my data over to these drives before the tear down. About 3TB of pictures and video. Also installed all my adobe apps. Still have some more software to get installed, but I've got the meat of it done already. Getting close....


----------



## cpachris

Disaster narrowly averted! I had finished up the stuff I was tweaking and had filled the loop back up and was bleeding air from the loop. I have to tilt the case practically flat on all four sides, multiple times, to get most of the air out.

Well, I forgot to rotate the drain valve on the bottom of the case back underneath the case. It was sticking out the back. I tilted the case backbackwards and the valve assembly took the brunt of the weight. It sheared the 90 degree and adaptor fitting plumb off. See picture...



Water started spraying out the bottom like a geyser. Luckily, there was no power to the motherboard or components, and all the leaking water stayed below the case. Close one!

Replacing fittings now. I have spare on hand of these, so I'm going right back in. You can bet I won't make that mistake again! Eesh....


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Disaster narrowly averted! I had finished up the stuff I was tweaking and had filled the loop back up and was bleeding air from the loop. I have to tilt the case practically flat on all four sides, multiple times, to get most of the air out.
> 
> Well, I forgot to rotate the drain valve on the bottom of the case back underneath the case. It was sticking out the back. I tilted the case backbackwards and the valve assembly took the brunt of the weight. It sheared the 90 degree and adaptor fitting plumb off. See picture...
> 
> 
> 
> Water started spraying out the bottom like a geyser. Luckily, there was no power to the motherboard or components, and all the leaking water stayed below the case. Close one!
> 
> Replacing fittings now. I have spare on hand of these, so I'm going right back in. You can bet I won't make that mistake again! Eesh....


So would give this one a PF (Pucker Factor) of 8-10?


----------



## Big Elf

Due to the weight I find it next to impossible to tilt my case to bleed it so it's a pain every time I refill the loop. It takes close to a week for mine to get rid of all the air.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> So would give this one a PF (Pucker Factor) of 8-10?


I'd give it an 11. Just like Spinal Tap.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Due to the weight I find it next to impossible to tilt my case to bleed it so it's a pain every time I refill the loop. It takes close to a week for mine to get rid of all the air.


Yeah...it's pretty darn heavy. It's no easy task...but I make do. Haven't tried to weigh mine yet now that it's practically done....but plan on it soon. Do you have an idea what your's weighs?


----------



## Big Elf

I think the last time I calculated it came out at between 95-105lbs. 30 years ago I'd have picked it up and stood on the scales to weigh it but I couldn't do that now. I'll be interested to see what your weighs.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Disaster narrowly averted! I had finished up the stuff I was tweaking and had filled the loop back up and was bleeding air from the loop. I have to tilt the case practically flat on all four sides, multiple times, to get most of the air out.
> 
> Well, I forgot to rotate the drain valve on the bottom of the case back underneath the case. It was sticking out the back. I tilted the case backbackwards and the valve assembly took the brunt of the weight. It sheared the 90 degree and adaptor fitting plumb off. See picture...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water started spraying out the bottom like a geyser. Luckily, there was no power to the motherboard or components, and all the leaking water stayed below the case. Close one!
> 
> Replacing fittings now. I have spare on hand of these, so I'm going right back in. You can bet I won't make that mistake again! Eesh....


Yikes! I came close to doing the same thing a few months ago....fortunately the whole thing rotated on the valve and spun off to the side.








The way mine is setup now it's not too hard to bleed....it's harder to get the D5's primed, I have to get water to the MCP35x2 to get everything moving.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I think the last time I calculated it came out at between 95-105lbs. 30 years ago I'd have picked it up and stood on the scales to weigh it but I couldn't do that now. I'll be interested to see what your weighs.


I don't know what mine weighs, but with 3 pedestals & a platform it's too much for me to lift.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I don't know what mine weighs, but with 3 pedestals & a platform it's too much for me to lift.


The answer is "Truck scale".


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkdiablo*
> 
> The answer is "Truck scale".


I must have left mine at the track....I can't seem to find it right now.


----------



## cpachris

Big win last night....means the Big Budget Boomer Box needs an update. But first lets finish the obligatory rantings.....

BOOMER! One of the biggest wins in OU history! Awesome game last night. I know I've got some fellow Sooner's following the build, so chime in and let the world know who the best college football team is!

....and on to the build. OK....when I last left you, I had sheared off my bottom drain valve and narrowly averted a disaster as water spewed everywhere. I've recovered from that minor setback, and have the system filled up and running. Even have moved it from my living room to my office (much to the approval and relief of my wife). Proof....



Tough to tell from the picture above, but the case is leaning a little to the back. That's because I had another minor incident. As I was [carefully] tipping the case on its sides to help with getting the air out of the loop, I had one of the casters snap on me. I think these casters that CaseLabs sells are rated at 100 pounds each. But when I'm tipping my case around to bleed it...sometimes the weight is all on one caster. If my case isn't 100 pounds....it's pretty darn close. So....I don't blame CaseLabs. I've loaded this case up, and it is quite heavy. Anyway, I ordered a new set of casters from CaseLabs, and they got them shipped very quickly. They arrived a couple of days ago. Picture below...



So, I'll be swapping out the busted caster later today. While I was ordering the casters, I went ahead and treated myself to a new mouse. I had been using a wireless Logitech, and was unhappy with the lag and interference I was experiencing in my house. Decided I wanted to get a wired mouse instead. Did a little research, and ended up selecting the SteelSeries Sensei.



It's bigger than my Microsoft Mobile Mouse, and smaller than my Logitech Performance MX. Feels good in the hand.



Tons of options for buttons and speed and sensitivity that are hardware based. Impressive mouse. It comes with a default profile that illuminates the track wheel LED in blue, the CPI LED in white, and the MLG Logo LED in orange.



But the LED's are all fully customizable and allow you to input your own RGB codes. I played around with them and set them all to more of a crimson color. Much nicer for my build theme....




Decided to treat myself to a new mousepad while I was ordering.



Had one other issue crop up when I moved the case into my office. I plugged it into my existing UPS, and immediately heard the UPS cry out in loud and urgent voice...."You're kidding me, right?". Well...maybe it didn't do that. But...it did start with the alarm whistles about the current being too high for the UPS. It's an old unit I picked up at Wal-Mart more than 8 years ago. Not even sure what it's rated specs are...but probably not high enough to handle the BBBB. So...I've ordered a new UPS which should be here today or tomorrow. I'll have some pictures of it after it arrives.


----------



## Big Elf

My UPS did a similar thing and started beeping when I'd added the 580GTXs to my system and overclocked them. I dismantled the UPS and removed the warning buzzer







I only have mine connected now to protect against power surges.

I did wonder whether putting too much weight on one corner would actually damaged the castor mounts on the case as well as the castors.


----------



## socketus

Nice mouse. Hope that Steel has cured their mice of the faulty right clicker - the Ikari model - had 1 that went bad in less than a year, was replaced by a Sensei, after jumping thru some hurdles. Have a 2nd Ikari that is still trucking after several years, tho it doesn't get used much.

Congrats on the Boomer Sooner win ! I bet Alabama never saw them coming ;-)


----------



## Seanimus

My UPS cried as well, had to connect the STH10 to the wall socket.
I use the MERC Stealth keyboard from SteelSeries as it has a separate keypad on the left and the SteelSeries Glass Mousepad. --Both of which are discontinued now...
For Mouse - Razer naga with 12 buttons on side for macros. Wired mouse is the only way to go for gaming. Also it sucks when you run out of battery in the middle of a fight.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Big win last night....means the Big Budget Boomer Box needs an update. But first lets finish the obligatory rantings.....
> 
> BOOMER! One of the biggest wins in OU history! Awesome game last night. I know I've got some fellow Sooner's following the build, so chime in and let the world know who the best college football team is!
> 
> ....and on to the build. OK....when I last left you, I had sheared off my bottom drain valve and narrowly averted a disaster as water spewed everywhere. I've recovered from that minor setback, and have the system filled up and running. Even have moved it from my living room to my office (much to the approval and relief of my wife). Proof....
> 
> 
> 
> Tough to tell from the picture above, but the case is leaning a little to the back. That's because I had another minor incident. As I was [carefully] tipping the case on its sides to help with getting the air out of the loop, I had one of the casters snap on me. I think these casters that CaseLabs sells are rated at 100 pounds each. But when I'm tipping my case around to bleed it...sometimes the weight is all on one caster. If my case isn't 100 pounds....it's pretty darn close. So....I don't blame CaseLabs. I've loaded this case up, and it is quite heavy. Anyway, I ordered a new set of casters from CaseLabs, and they got them shipped very quickly. They arrived a couple of days ago. Picture below...
> 
> 
> 
> So, I'll be swapping out the busted caster later today. While I was ordering the casters, I went ahead and treated myself to a new mouse. I had been using a wireless Logitech, and was unhappy with the lag and interference I was experiencing in my house. Decided I wanted to get a wired mouse instead. Did a little research, and ended up selecting the SteelSeries Sensei.
> 
> 
> 
> It's bigger than my Microsoft Mobile Mouse, and smaller than my Logitech Performance MX. Feels good in the hand.
> 
> 
> 
> Tons of options for buttons and speed and sensitivity that are hardware based. Impressive mouse. It comes with a default profile that illuminates the track wheel LED in blue, the CPI LED in white, and the MLG Logo LED in orange.
> 
> 
> 
> But the LED's are all fully customizable and allow you to input your own RGB codes. I played around with them and set them all to more of a crimson color. Much nicer for my build theme....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to treat myself to a new mousepad while I was ordering.
> 
> 
> 
> Had one other issue crop up when I moved the case into my office. I plugged it into my existing UPS, and immediately heard the UPS cry out in loud and urgent voice...."You're kidding me, right?". Well...maybe it didn't do that. But...it did start with the alarm whistles about the current being too high for the UPS. It's an old unit I picked up at Wal-Mart more than 8 years ago. Not even sure what it's rated specs are...but probably not high enough to handle the BBBB. So...I've ordered a new UPS which should be here today or tomorrow. I'll have some pictures of it after it arrives.


I'm surprised you're not modding the mouse by painting the top piece crimson and leaving the RGB color as white...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> My UPS did a similar thing and started beeping when I'd added the 580GTXs to my system and overclocked them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> My UPS cried as well, had to connect the STH10 to the wall socket.


MyUPS says I will get the new UPS today, and I'll let you know whether this one cries uncle or not. I'm prepared to just have to get a second one if it does. New UPS is a 1500 VA / 1000 Watt rated model. If I have both PSU's plugged into it, they could theoretically still draw more power than this. But I would think that would only be when my two 690's are maxed out. If I get alarms, I'll get a second one.


----------



## Seanimus

Is it worth it? Last time my power went out was during the Sandy Storm. You have lot of outages in your area?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Is it worth it? Last time my power went out was during the Sandy Storm. You have lot of outages in your area?


Have a lot of little mini-power drops. Power goes out for just a second or two. Happens several times a week. Sometimes it's just a drop in voltage I think...because the lights will just dim for a second...but the existing UPS gets triggered whenever this happens.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> MyUPS says I will get the new UPS today, and I'll let you know whether this one cries uncle or not. I'm prepared to just have to get a second one if it does. New UPS is a 1500 VA / 1000 Watt rated model. If I have both PSU's plugged into it, they could theoretically still draw more power than this. But I would think that would only be when my two 690's are maxed out. If I get alarms, I'll get a second one.


I think you'll be close to the 1000w UPS's threshold before the whistles starta blowin'.
I got 3 mildly overclocked 690's on an SR2 folding and it's power draw hovers around 1480w.
Not actually running atm as mid-summer here and the heat generated by the rig is too much to handle.


----------



## wthenshaw

So cpachris, do you have an extended opinion/review of the CM Storm QuickFire TK Brown MX now that you've had it a while.

About to pull the trigger on one but wanted to hear some more opinions.


----------



## JaRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> So cpachris, do you have an extended opinion/review of the CM Storm QuickFire TK Brown MX now that you've had it a while.
> 
> About to pull the trigger on one but wanted to hear some more opinions.


i've used the excact model for quite some time now( got it as a early christmas present, around 1st december, and it is really great!







i've only encountered in one game that i do not like it, and its in need for speed rivals, were you use the ten keys for autolog and the page up and page down for entering events.

i've had other mechanical keyboards before ( 1 blue 1 brown, both DasKeyboard model S ) and i have always missed the LED and now i have it!

it really is a good quality just like any other mechanical keyboard, and i love how the cord is unplugable and the raiser feets have rubber on them too!

btw. sorry for my english!









back to the build log, holy mother of ******* god it looks awesome!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> So cpachris, do you have an extended opinion/review of the CM Storm QuickFire TK Brown MX now that you've had it a while.
> 
> About to pull the trigger on one but wanted to hear some more opinions.


Wish I had more experience with other mechanical models and/or with the different switch types available. I don't. So I can tell you what I think of my keyboard but can't make any real comparisons to others in terms of quality and/or features. I LOVE the way this keyboard feels. Satisfying click and feel on the keypresses. And this is the first illuminated keyboard I've had and I'll never go without that feature again. I usually have my office lights off while working on the computer at night, and it's so nice to be able to see where to put my hands without getting up real close to the keyboard.

But there are some things I haven't gotten used to yet. To get the small size, they had to get rid of the arrows and delete/home keys that were between the letters and the ten-key portion on my last keyboard. I still reach for that delete button all the time...and it's just not there. You can use the "4" key on the ten-key as delete as long as you don't have the num-lock on, but that is not what I'm used to doing. I may end up wishing I had gotten a full-size keyboard instead of this one. But I'm not giving up on it yet. I love the smaller size....I'm just not used to it.

Hope that helps a little.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Shame, if it was a blue I'd buy it from you an you could get that fullsize. Shouldn't be hard to sell if you do decide to do so.


----------



## Panther Al

Considering this was my first post thread and this build got me back into PC building, figured I would return to it:

Some may laugh, but so far I have found that the Corsair K95 is actually really rather good. Its large granted, but it is mechanical, and it does have all the keys one could want as well as a bank of Macro Keys that are good for more than just gaming - mine are loaded up with Premier and AutoCAD key combo's. If you have a place or a buddy that has one, its worth a peek in my opinion.

And for once, I was rooting for ya'll to beat Bama. As a former Aggie, I rather OU get the win than those people.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Some may laugh, but so far I have found that the Corsair K95 is actually really rather good. Its large granted, but it is mechanical, and it does have all the keys one could want as well as a bank of Macro Keys that are good for more than just gaming - mine are loaded up with Premier and *AutoCAD key combo's*. If you have a place or a buddy that has one, its worth a peek in my opinion.












Bravo, good sir.

I plan to load mine with AutoCAD, Inventor, 3DS Max, and Photoshop combos as well as hot keys to start up programs.

My only complainy about the K95 is that I may need to switch out the MX Reds to a different switch. Still deciding between Brown, Blue, and Black.


----------



## gr3nd3l

This is all I have to say...



This goes for the game and the build!


----------



## JaRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bravo, good sir.
> 
> I plan to load mine with AutoCAD, Inventor, 3DS Max, and Photoshop combos as well as hot keys to start up programs.
> 
> My only complainy about the K95 is that I may need to switch out the MX Reds to a different switch. Still deciding between Brown, Blue, and Black.


i've had blues, its the best - no doubt what so ever, it really is! but holy damn they are loud as ****









because they were so loud i had to switch to others due to complains from GF and friends when watching a movie







but i ended up with brown, since they are the closed to a blue without the noise, you can still feel the tactile but not with the clicky sound


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaRi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bravo, good sir.
> 
> I plan to load mine with AutoCAD, Inventor, 3DS Max, and Photoshop combos as well as hot keys to start up programs.
> 
> My only complainy about the K95 is that I may need to switch out the MX Reds to a different switch. Still deciding between Brown, Blue, and Black.
> 
> 
> 
> i've had blues, its the best - no doubt what so ever, it really is! but holy damn they are loud as ****
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because they were so loud i had to switch to others due to complains from GF and friends when watching a movie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i ended up with brown, since they are the closed to a blue without the noise, you can still feel the tactile but not with the clicky sound
Click to expand...

Hmmm...I'll have to investigate different switches before I commit to purchasing a mess of switches and modifying the keyboard. Thanks for the intel, though!


----------



## cpachris

Got my UPS....this thing weighs 50 pounds! Not too big though...kind of like a large shoe box. The LCD panel is really nice and provides all sorts of information, like current wattage, VA and amps being supplied. Plus battery state, ...and even kilowatt hours being used if you want to gauge energy cost. Some pics....





This shot is right by my old APC 1000 UPS so you can get a better feel for the size of this one. Much shorter....but much wider.



One of the really neat things is that the LCD panel can detach and has a fairly long cord. So...you could move it to your desk if you are doing something where you need to get some readings from the UPS...and not have to bend over to see it on the floor. Could even permanently mount it somewhere higher if you wanted. Very nice...



Since I now have access to some information on how many amps/watts are being pulled from the wall, I decided to use this UPS to do some testing on how the two different PSU's are working. First...had to take inventory of what each of the PSU's are powering. See below:

*PSU #1 (AX850)*
- 24-pin on motherboard
- 2x 8-pin on motherboard
- Auxillary molex #1 on motherboard
- Auxillary molex #2 on motherboard
- 2x Aquaero 5's
- 2 D5 pumps
- 52 fans

*PSU #2 (AX850)*
- 2x GTX 690's
- 16x SSD's
- 2x D5 pumps
- Blu-Ray Burner
- Cold Cathode Inverter
- About 10 feet of LED strip lights

Phew! Forgot how much stuff I had in here. After doing the inventory, I took turns only plugging in one of the PSU's at a time to the new UPS, and running some stress tests to see what kind of wattage was being pulled. Dropped the results into a quick little graph. See below....



The machine idles at about 330 watts...and hits right at 1,000 watts when the GPU's are being stressed. The two PSU's seem fairly well balanced, knowing that the one powering the 2x 690's will always be under utilized until the GPU's are being stressed. I could probably get by with just this one UPS since it's max wattage is 1,050. But if I stick with one, I can't plug the monitor into it, which I'd like to. There may be some other applications that stress it a little differently and make me hit the cap. Not sure yet. I'll probably stick with just one of these right now, for at least a week or so, and see if I end up getting any warning bells/whistles when I'm doing my normal activity (primarily Adobe pictures/video stuff) with it. Then I'll decide. Newegg has these for just $300 bucks right now, which is a steal of a deal.

I'm in the middle of running some different benchmarks, so I can put a stick in the ground for performance and have something to measure against when I start doing some upgrades to this machine. I'll be posting those over the next few days. Plus...as soon as I have a few hours to play with my camera, I'll do the final photo shoot for version 1.0 of the BBBB. Gotta take those beauty shots!


----------



## nateman_doo

Want to know the best upgrade you can do for a UPS? Open it up, take out the pathetic battery in there, solder some 10AWG wire to the terminals, and run it to an Optima yellow top deep cycle battery. I did something similar for the computer that my CNC runs off of. Those UPS's are nothing but car power inverters. Give them a car battery and they will run MUCH longer


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nateman_doo*
> 
> Want to know the best upgrade you can do for a UPS? Open it up, take out the pathetic battery in there, solder some 10AWG wire to the terminals, and run it to an Optima yellow top deep cycle battery. I did something similar for the computer that my CNC runs off of. Those UPS's are nothing but car power inverters. Give them a car battery and they will run MUCH longer


10 AWG? You're asking for a fire. 10awg is only rated for 30 amps, which at 12 volts would be 360 watts. Well less than that pupper is rated for. I'd look look for 2 AWG at the least.


----------



## seross69

above is very right!!!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Now more than likely, it uses two 12 volt or two 6 volts, if they are in fact two 12 volts wired is series, you can get away with half the wire size. However, you'd need a second car battery. My guess is that it used two motorcycle size sealed acid 6 volts in series.


----------



## nateman_doo

a fire? hardly. Depends on how long the wire run is. I have run far more then 30 amps through 10 gauge. I used 8 gauge on mine without any problems. Its just a concept.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

10 gauge in the best ever synthetic case will only ever carry 55 amps without getting to hot.


----------



## Barefooter

Hey Chris where are the final beauty shots you promised us? Can't wait to see them!


----------



## cpachris

With more than 120.24 worth of radiator space, my system can make things so chilly that it starts snowing....


















I've been using this as my main system now for almost a month. L.O.V.E. I.T. Some of the pictures above are HDR pictures done in 16 bit, and I can't tell you how much faster this thing burns through creating those than my old system did. I thought about trying to get the machine back upstairs to the studio for some pictures....but it's so heavy that I don't think it is even possible without dismantling more of it than I would want to. So when the weather turned snowy and sunny on the same day...I took advantage for some awesome pics. Just rolled it out the front door and started shooting.

I still need to post some benchmark scores for the current configuration....primarily so I'll have something to compare to for my next upgrade. The GTX790 rumors are getting hot and heavy...and I'm waiting to see if these come true. If they do, I'll probably do an upgrade that will include replacing the GTX690's with 790's....as well as putting in a 4960X to replace the 3960X. The hand-me down parts will go into a gaming computer for my son.

Thanks for sticking with me for so long during this build. I've got two more planned for the upcoming months, and I'll make sure and do a build log for both.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Absolutely incredible. Thank you for all of the details and information that has made this build log so special. I can't wait to see what comes next!


----------



## zosothepage

Stunning what a beautiful blend technology and art.


----------



## Insan1tyOne

Finally... "Completion". Beautiful. All of the intricate work and planning that went into this is truly astounding. Congratulations!


----------



## seross69

Absolutely awesome.. Hope to get mine to this point one day!!! Been a great journey and cant wait to see the other builds!!


----------



## wthenshaw

So are we seeing BBBB 1.1 next or BBBB 2.0?


----------



## Lourad

I can't tell you how much I enjoyed watching you create this computer! Thank you.


----------



## linkdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> With more than 120.24 worth of radiator space, my system can make things so chilly that it starts snowing....
> 
> I've been using this as my main system now for almost a month. L.O.V.E. I.T. Some of the pictures above are HDR pictures done in 16 bit, and I can't tell you how much faster this thing burns through creating those than my old system did. I thought about trying to get the machine back upstairs to the studio for some pictures....but it's so heavy that I don't think it is even possible without dismantling more of it than I would want to. So when the weather turned snowy and sunny on the same day...I took advantage for some awesome pics. Just rolled it out the front door and started shooting.
> 
> I still need to post some benchmark scores for the current configuration....primarily so I'll have something to compare to for my next upgrade. The GTX790 rumors are getting hot and heavy...and I'm waiting to see if these come true. If they do, I'll probably do an upgrade that will include replacing the GTX690's with 790's....as well as putting in a 4960X to replace the 3960X. The hand-me down parts will go into a gaming computer for my son.
> 
> Thanks for sticking with me for so long during this build. I've got two more planned for the upcoming months, and I'll make sure and do a build log for both.


I want ot thank you for your experimentations, it helped me sell a similar machine (3930k, 64GB, PCIe ssd, quattro and such) ... that was a pleasure to build and your build was a greart reference when I was consulted to help the client overclock.

You have tremedous workmanship and discipline and the master piece to prove it.


----------



## TATH

Ha ha Chris,

Where did i hear that befor "game parts for my suns case" O yes this al the parents do . I did now my son having his game machine:

- i7 3820 4,6 Ghz
- 16 gb Dominator GT 2000 Mhz
- Asus rampage IV extreme
- Corsair 800D
- Corsair AX 1200 PSU.

Now whe dont see him so much because he needs to game untill mid night.


----------



## JambonJovi

Glad to see you got the Boomer finished Chris.
This has been one of the (If not THE) most informative build logs I've read on OCN.
Certainly the longest one too hehe
Good luck with the upcoming ones. I'll keep my eyes peeled.


----------



## legoman786

How about them Seahawks?


----------



## mandrix

Like so many, I have absolutely enjoyed watching this build. It also prompted me to do a few things I probably wouldn't have thought of otherwise.


----------



## Mainsil

Your persistence and attention to detail on this project have been phenomenal. It inspired me to both, join Overclock.com (so I could easily find the new posts in this long log), and get started on my own, much more modest, water cooled rig. I was most impressed with the work you put into cable lacing, and sleeving, and the time you took to explain it to the rest of us how you did it. I hope you enjoy your work for a long time to come.


----------



## Barefooter

It's finished! This is my favorite build log of all time, and I also joined OCN just because of this log. It's been a great ride. I will use this log as my as my guide for an upcoming build. I have already referred back here numerous times already.

Congrats Chris and looking forward to your upcoming builds!


----------



## Farmer Boe

Epic build log and final result! I enjoyed every step so I'm sure you'll enjoy that rig! I look forward to seeing your upcoming builds.


----------



## Wibble360

Awesome work, well done on such an impressive system!

Looking forward to BBBB 1.1!


----------



## nateman_doo

Amen! Glad to hear the build turned out exactly as you wanted it.
Since when is a build really ever..."done"? Your already planning upgrades









I took steps to simplify the chipset block since all the feed back from folks here. Wish we could have gotten that beveled top to work, but I am glad we at least tried it. Best of luck in all your future builds!

Blockman Nate out.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> With more than 120.24 worth of radiator space, my system can make things so chilly that it starts snowing....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using this as my main system now for almost a month. L.O.V.E. I.T. Some of the pictures above are HDR pictures done in 16 bit, and I can't tell you how much faster this thing burns through creating those than my old system did. I thought about trying to get the machine back upstairs to the studio for some pictures....but it's so heavy that I don't think it is even possible without dismantling more of it than I would want to. So when the weather turned snowy and sunny on the same day...I took advantage for some awesome pics. Just rolled it out the front door and started shooting.
> 
> I still need to post some benchmark scores for the current configuration....primarily so I'll have something to compare to for my next upgrade. The GTX790 rumors are getting hot and heavy...and I'm waiting to see if these come true. If they do, I'll probably do an upgrade that will include replacing the GTX690's with 790's....as well as putting in a 4960X to replace the 3960X. The hand-me down parts will go into a gaming computer for my son.
> 
> Thanks for sticking with me for so long during this build. I've got two more planned for the upcoming months, and I'll make sure and do a build log for both.


Wow Chris, the paint job looks absolutely stellar out in the sunlight.

I wonder what the guy in the truck thought driving by as he saw you takes pics of that big 'ol thing....I would think at least an eyebrow raising sight for sure lol


----------



## mosi

Oh wow... seriously...oh wow....
I haven't peeked in here for what seems an eternity and now randomly clicky here to find this awesomeness-in-a-box...

I absolutely dig the effort you put into routing the cables perfectly parallel! That was the look I dreamt of but didn't think was possible.

Btw, if you want to fool around with HDR more, for some reason HDR Expose from UnifiedColor works best for me. I've tried some various freeware thingies that float around on the net with sort of mixed results but maybe that was just me being stupid. 16bit tiff is a must though but you already seem to be able to handle that amount of data with ease


----------



## cpachris

Wow! Thanks for all the kind words my friends. I've got a new build log started. The wife-y needs her computer. Come check it out. Ever seen a pink CaseLabs S8?









http://www.overclock.net/t/1477162/the-powerful-pretty-pink-processor-aka-the-pppp/0_20#post_22016190


----------



## Imglidinhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Oh wow... seriously...oh wow....
> I haven't peeked in here for what seems an eternity and now randomly clicky here to find this awesomeness-in-a-box...
> 
> I absolutely dig the effort you put into routing the cables perfectly parallel! That was the look I dreamt of but didn't think was possible.
> 
> Btw, if you want to fool around with HDR more, for some reason HDR Expose from UnifiedColor works best for me. I've tried some various freeware thingies that float around on the net with sort of mixed results but maybe that was just me being stupid. 16bit tiff is a must though but you already seem to be able to handle that amount of data with ease


My reaction was pretty much the same actually.

Something alone the lines of:

O__________O "Oh my god... You have money!"


----------



## Stunub

Wow cpachris what a beast! I've scrolled through the 396 pages over the last few weeks, was so happy when I saw the copper fittings on the mobo.

I'll have to start reading your wife's build now


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imglidinhere*
> 
> My reaction was pretty much the same actually.
> 
> Something alone the lines of:
> 
> O__________O "Oh my god... You have money!"


This one made me smile.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stunub*
> 
> Wow cpachris what a beast! I've scrolled through the 396 pages over the last few weeks, was so happy when I saw the copper fittings on the mobo.
> 
> I'll have to start reading your wife's build now


Love hearing that someone new actually found the build and made it (suffered) through all the posts.







If I'm totally honest...I actually floated back through all the posts last month....just reliving everything. It was a super fun build to put together, and the interaction from the OCN community made it really special. Build log for the PPPP is underway! Link in sig. It's not as over the top as the BBBB, but just as much fun to be working on.

Now if those darn 790's would ever materialize.....


----------



## cpachris

Boomer Sooner baby! All 50+ fans and 4 pumps kicked it into high gear to celebrate the big win tonight. 4-0 baby!


----------



## Panther Al

You all are looking good I will admit... but you just watch, Aggies are on fire. Serious fire. Shame we don't meet each other anymore.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> You all are looking good I will admit... but you just watch, Aggies are on fire. Serious fire. Shame we don't meet each other anymore.


I'll give it up....the Aggies have looked great so far! But your remaining schedule is so tough.....you could still lose 5 games this season.


----------



## Panther Al

Yes we have: better than our field has at any rate. I can see us loosing one of the coming games, thats going to happen. But I feel really good about it being only one - especially after how we started out the season against USC (Not those California posers, the real USC in South Carolina.







).

I still have saved at work an editorial the WSJ put out a few years ago that was very tongue in cheek about A&M going to the SEC, and how the rest of College Ball surrendered to the SEC at Appomattox Courthouse: I break it out now and then to get a laugh.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'll give it up....the Aggies have looked great so far! But your remaining schedule is so tough.....you could still lose 5 games this season.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Yes we have: better than our field has at any rate. I can see us loosing one of the coming games, thats going to happen. But I feel really good about it being only one - especially after how we started out the season against USC (Not those California posers, the real USC in South Carolina.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


A sad weekend for both of us.

Prediction: OU will still win the Big12 with one loss, and make the 4 team playoffs.

Do you still feel good about your one loss prediction for the Aggies? I've got you slated for at least 4 losses.


----------



## Panther Al

*LOL*

Depends: If we get the defence against the run sorted out, I'll stick by it. I think the last two games has exposed our kryptonite: The last game prior to this against Arkansas exposed us, but we was good enough to pull it out. And unfortunately MissState took good notes. Our defence is much better than last years, but.... as the last two games showed, really weak against the Rush. I rather have the loss now to get it out of the way and get the team fired up for the really tough games that are coming up.

But to be fair: Who saw the way this season has been coming? It has been nuts.


----------



## cpachris

I officially declare 3 days of mourning to commence immediately. How old is Bill Snyder anyway? 700?


----------



## Panther Al

Heh...

Who on earth ever saw the Mississippi Schools - both of them - come out like this this year? And I think you are going to be right: We got off to a great start, but the last few games and how the Alabama game is going so far...

Makes one almost wanna cry.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I officially declare 3 days of mourning to commence immediately. How old is Bill Snyder anyway? 700?


Sooner who??? Roll Tide


----------



## Jamesdpumfrey00

What are the cables out the back of the case?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamesdpumfrey00*
> 
> What are the cables out the back of the case?


James...The Asrock board had two motherboard 20 pin connectors, and I'm using both of these to connect my 4 USB 3.0 ports on the CaseLabs case. I wanted all 4 of these working.

So when I hooked up the USB 3.0 card reader, I decided to run the cords through the pedestal and out the back to connect with the USB ports on the back I/O panel. It's working great. Use my USB3.0 card reader almost every day to get pictures off the compact flash card I shoot with. Lightening fast compared with the old USB 2.0 readers.....


----------



## Jamesdpumfrey00

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Jamesdpumfrey00 View Post
> 
> What are the cables out the back of the case?
> 
> James...The Asrock board had two motherboard 20 pin connectors, and I'm using both of these to connect my 4 USB 3.0 ports on the CaseLabs case. I wanted all 4 of these working.
> 
> So when I hooked up the USB 3.0 card reader, I decided to run the cords through the pedestal and out the back to connect with the USB ports on the back I/O panel. It's working great. Use my USB3.0 card reader almost every day to get pictures off the compact flash card I shoot with. Lightening fast compared with the old USB 2.0 readers.....


Thanks.
great build.


----------



## Jamesdpumfrey00

@cpachris

For the previous post


----------



## ChamplooS2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Wow. I love the fact that people actually participate in this thread. You guys are all awesome. There were really too many to go back and quote/reply on all of them, but please know that appreciate the thoughtful comments and opinions on the fittings. I've absorbed all of the feedback so far, and I've narrowed the list. Deep Red got the most votes, followed closely by one of the blacks. Also, as bruflot quickly pointed out, its kind of hard to decide on the fittings without knowing what the tubing is going to look like. So for the fittings that survived the first round, I've taken pictures with different colors of tubing in each of them (white, crimson and black).
> 
> So first, let me talk about which ones didn't make the cut during this first round. There are two that I'm eliminating for similar reasons. The PrimoChill Black Ghost, and the XSPC Black Chrome. I really like the way both of these fittings look.....but I got to playing around online with what's available in those lines other than compression fittings. The answer...very little. And since I plan to do some "fittings only" connections between some items, this would be an extremely limiting factor. I like knowing that there are 45's and 90's and rotary snakes, and extenders and adapters, and all the other little parts that can make fittings fun. So these two....must be eliminated.
> 
> Next...I've got two black fittings in my initial list. Bitspower Matte Black and Bitspower Carbon Black. I had heard people say that they were very similar....but I usually want to see for myself. In this case...they were right. Unless you had already seen both of them side by side, in person,....I would say that there is no way to tell the difference unless you get up real close to them. Since they are so similar, there is no reason to bring both of them through to the next round. I've picked one....and its the Carbon Black. For me....I just think the duller deeper black is a little more attractive....plus the red o-rings are a real good match and I wouldn't need to change them out. So....cross Matte Black off the list.
> 
> Next...the Bitspower Black Sparkle and the Bitspower Silver Shining are pretty similar. Not as similar as the two blacks above....but similar none the less. They both look like chrome....but the black sparkle just takes a little bit of the shine off of it. I like them both, but since they are both very similar, I think I like the Black Sparkle better. So I'm going to eliminate Silver Shining and take it off the list.
> 
> So from my initial list of eight...there are four survivors for this next round of pictures. Remember you can load up a big version of the picture by clicking on it. The large pictures are pure computer porn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. PrimoChill - Black Ghost
> 2. Bitspower - Matte Black
> 3. AlphaCool - Copper
> 4. Bitspower - Black Sparkle
> 5. Bitspower - Carbon Black
> 6. XSPC - Black Chrome Low Profile
> 7. Bitspower - Deep Red
> 8. Bitspower - Shining Silver
> 
> For tubing...I happen to have some white, crimson (dyed myself), and black tubing laying around, so for each of the four fittings survivor, I've taken a shot with each of the 3 colors of tubing attached. I'll also give you some thoughts on the fitting before each series of 3 pictures:
> 
> *AlphaCool - Copper*
> Only a couple people mentioned copper in the comments tonight, but I actually think it looks pretty sharp. I did want to make sure everyone knows that it will be unavoidable to have some copper in the build. Most likely my CPU water block and GPU waterblocks will feature a significant amount of copper. Also, I have 2 copper fin Aqua Computer AMS rads on the way. My plan was to leave the copper fins as-is, but powercoat the sides of the rads. So....there will be some copper no matter what. Would copper fittings make it TOO much copper? I don't know. But I didn't want someone to nix copper just because they thought it wouldn't go with the build colors. It will be part of the build colors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bitspower Black Sparkle*
> The Bitspower Black Sparkle is kind of like a black chrome, and looks very sharp with almost any other colors. Won't clash with motherboard trim. Good way to take the existing black trim and blend it with a new color. I like Black Sparkle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bitspower Carbon Black*
> Black fittings are a classic, and would clearly not upset any of the color scheme I have going on. These have the added benefit of a deep red O-ring, which DOES end up showing on some connections. I think the black would look great against any of the white settings (primarily 5 of the radiators), but I also think black fittings get a little lost when the connections are on a block on a black motherboard. Doesn't look bad...just kind of gets lost. And I'll be using the Asrock Extreme 11, which is primarily black. But they are good looking fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bitspower Deep Red*
> Red got the most votes during the first round. This red is a pretty good match for the case color. Not 100%, but close enough where it doesn't draw attention. These are good looking fittings. I also like that they are less common than the black. Feel a little more exclusive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I appreciate all the feedback. It helps me shape my own opinion. If you would be so kind, indulge me one more time, and based on the surviving fittings and tube colors, let me know your favorite one or two combinations of fitting/tube colors, that you would consider if you were doing this build.


black chrome with every tube, carbon black with mat black and white tube, deep blood red with white tube are looks good.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChamplooS2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Wow. I love the fact that people actually participate in this thread. You guys are all awesome. There were really too many to go back and quote/reply on all of them, but please know that appreciate the thoughtful comments and opinions on the fittings. I've absorbed all of the feedback so far, and I've narrowed the list. Deep Red got the most votes, followed closely by one of the blacks. Also, as bruflot quickly pointed out, its kind of hard to decide on the fittings without knowing what the tubing is going to look like. So for the fittings that survived the first round, I've taken pictures with different colors of tubing in each of them (white, crimson and black).
> 
> So first, let me talk about which ones didn't make the cut during this first round. There are two that I'm eliminating for similar reasons. The PrimoChill Black Ghost, and the XSPC Black Chrome. I really like the way both of these fittings look.....but I got to playing around online with what's available in those lines other than compression fittings. The answer...very little. And since I plan to do some "fittings only" connections between some items, this would be an extremely limiting factor. I like knowing that there are 45's and 90's and rotary snakes, and extenders and adapters, and all the other little parts that can make fittings fun. So these two....must be eliminated.
> 
> Next...I've got two black fittings in my initial list. Bitspower Matte Black and Bitspower Carbon Black. I had heard people say that they were very similar....but I usually want to see for myself. In this case...they were right. Unless you had already seen both of them side by side, in person,....I would say that there is no way to tell the difference unless you get up real close to them. Since they are so similar, there is no reason to bring both of them through to the next round. I've picked one....and its the Carbon Black. For me....I just think the duller deeper black is a little more attractive....plus the red o-rings are a real good match and I wouldn't need to change them out. So....cross Matte Black off the list.
> 
> Next...the Bitspower Black Sparkle and the Bitspower Silver Shining are pretty similar. Not as similar as the two blacks above....but similar none the less. They both look like chrome....but the black sparkle just takes a little bit of the shine off of it. I like them both, but since they are both very similar, I think I like the Black Sparkle better. So I'm going to eliminate Silver Shining and take it off the list.
> 
> So from my initial list of eight...there are four survivors for this next round of pictures. Remember you can load up a big version of the picture by clicking on it. The large pictures are pure computer porn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. PrimoChill - Black Ghost
> 2. Bitspower - Matte Black
> 3. AlphaCool - Copper
> 4. Bitspower - Black Sparkle
> 5. Bitspower - Carbon Black
> 6. XSPC - Black Chrome Low Profile
> 7. Bitspower - Deep Red
> 8. Bitspower - Shining Silver
> 
> For tubing...I happen to have some white, crimson (dyed myself), and black tubing laying around, so for each of the four fittings survivor, I've taken a shot with each of the 3 colors of tubing attached. I'll also give you some thoughts on the fitting before each series of 3 pictures:
> 
> *AlphaCool - Copper*
> Only a couple people mentioned copper in the comments tonight, but I actually think it looks pretty sharp. I did want to make sure everyone knows that it will be unavoidable to have some copper in the build. Most likely my CPU water block and GPU waterblocks will feature a significant amount of copper. Also, I have 2 copper fin Aqua Computer AMS rads on the way. My plan was to leave the copper fins as-is, but powercoat the sides of the rads. So....there will be some copper no matter what. Would copper fittings make it TOO much copper? I don't know. But I didn't want someone to nix copper just because they thought it wouldn't go with the build colors. It will be part of the build colors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bitspower Black Sparkle*
> The Bitspower Black Sparkle is kind of like a black chrome, and looks very sharp with almost any other colors. Won't clash with motherboard trim. Good way to take the existing black trim and blend it with a new color. I like Black Sparkle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bitspower Carbon Black*
> Black fittings are a classic, and would clearly not upset any of the color scheme I have going on. These have the added benefit of a deep red O-ring, which DOES end up showing on some connections. I think the black would look great against any of the white settings (primarily 5 of the radiators), but I also think black fittings get a little lost when the connections are on a block on a black motherboard. Doesn't look bad...just kind of gets lost. And I'll be using the Asrock Extreme 11, which is primarily black. But they are good looking fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bitspower Deep Red*
> Red got the most votes during the first round. This red is a pretty good match for the case color. Not 100%, but close enough where it doesn't draw attention. These are good looking fittings. I also like that they are less common than the black. Feel a little more exclusive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I appreciate all the feedback. It helps me shape my own opinion. If you would be so kind, indulge me one more time, and based on the surviving fittings and tube colors, let me know your favorite one or two combinations of fitting/tube colors, that you would consider if you were doing this build.
> 
> 
> 
> black chrome with every tube, carbon black with mat black and white tube, deep blood red with white tube are looks good.
Click to expand...

Are you aware the post you responded to is almost two years old?


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Are you aware the post you responded to is almost two years old?


Are you aware there is a spoiler tag?










Just kidding... was so surprised when this jumped to the top of my subs list... wondered what the heck Chris was doing. Necroed.


----------



## cpachris

Get off my lawn you crazy kids!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Get off my lawn you crazy kids!


----------



## b0oMeR

My god this build. Good job on the cabling, I love how you made cable look good and not hide it away like most builds nowadays. I always appreciated the looks of cables in a computer.

7 Rads?!
Your crazy.


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0oMeR*
> 
> 7 Rads?!
> Your crazy.


His crazy what ?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> His crazy what ?


Punctuation matters! **shaking fists** Now get off my lawn!


----------



## fast_fate

Hey Chris,
I finally finished Salive8 just last month, did you ever get to completing the PPP ?
Last I recall was the pump stands being 3D printed


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Resurrection complete.









Seriously though, this build could never get old. I remember building my M8 (the first time) and reading this log and...









More time spent painting fans and sleeving (and resleeving, and resleeving) cables than I have in 3 builds! Of course, more fans and rads than I've put in 3 builds too so there's that.

Anywhooo... NICE LAWN!


----------



## cpachris

Well...since someone already necroed this thing...I'll try to post some new pics soon. The BBBB is on version 2.0 now. Had a "water incident" and needed to replace a part or two.....which led to almost a wholesale replacement of components. It's done. Just need to get some pics. Teaser....there is no copper left in the BBBB.


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Well...since someone already necroed this thing...I'll try to post some new pics soon. The BBBB is on version 2.0 now. Had a "water incident" and needed to replace a part or two.....which led to almost a wholesale replacement of components. It's done. Just need to get some pics. Teaser....there is no copper left in the BBBB.


Woowoo... new pics!

This is the build that got me back into building computers seriously (And into Caselabs), so curious to see where it went.

And the PPPP build as well.


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## GingerJohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Teaser....there is no copper left in the BBBB.


But... muh copper!


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## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Teaser....there is no copper left in the BBBB.










I'm not sure how I feel about that... but I'm sure it's well done regardless. Looking forward to pics.


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## cpachris

I left the Big Budget Boomer Box running Prime95 as a show of support while my daughter and I came down to the big game...

BOOMER!!


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## HZCH

This is the most epic necroing I've seen yet...
Waiting for the 2.0 pics ?


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## DiGiCiDAL

Well, I don't know about _epic_ necroing IMO (though it is a resurrection)... I've seen threads that were 5 years old brought back before... plus it is _his_ log - not some random thread.

But +1000 on wanting those 2.0 pics that were promised many months ago!


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## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> This is the most epic necroing I've seen yet...
> Waiting for the 2.0 pics ?


I try to be epic in everything I do....lol. Even necroing a thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> But +1000 on wanting those 2.0 pics that were promised many months ago!


I promise. I've actually started ordering the hardware for version 3.0 already, so I promise to take some pics before I start replacing more items. There are very few original pieces of hardware left from the original BBBB. Cooling system has only a few changes, but basically all the tech hardware was replaced in 2.0.

Now that my beloved Sooners have secured a spot as the #2 seed in the playoffs, I will have the BBBB continue running Prime95 small FFT's on a 24/7 basis until we bring home that 8th national championship!


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## cpachris

Quick update on the BBBB before I tear it down and rebuild version 3.0. I never really got around to posting 2.0 pictures, so I'll describe that briefly. I had a *water incident* and found myself needing to replace the motherboard in the summer of 2016. Well...the AsRock board, which was once 'the board' to get, was no longer prime hardware, so I decided to replace it with one of the Rampage V Edition 10 boards, and I upgraded the CPU to a 6950X at the same time. Losing the AsRock and the custom blocks I had on it eliminated some of the copper in the build, and I decided to go ahead and replace all the copper and go with nickel. The GTX 1080's had come out, so I also replaced the dual GTX 690's that I had with a couple of 1080's. This required me to replace GPU blocks also. Decided I liked the look of the nickel better with the crimson color, so I was on a mission to replace all copper. That required replacing a couple of radiators also that had copper fins. 

The new 2.0 build rocked along for about 9 months or so, and then the 1080 Ti's were released. Can't not upgrade to those, right? So anyway...I started on what is now version 2.5. This upgrade included the 1080 Ti's, new reservoirs, and new pumps. Whenever anyone would happen to be over at my house and see the computer, it was always the water and reservoirs and lighting that drew their attention. Forget the awesome 16 SSD Raid 6 array....it was the reservoirs that got the oos and ahs. If you can't beat them....join them. So I decided more and bigger reservoirs for version 2.5. More lighting. Redid all the plumbing with hardline for this update. Replaced the copper bitspower fittings with some black EK. One thing that didn't get done was updating the wiring. The new graphics cards have the clips on TOP of the cards instead of on the bottom....so when I turned these cables around...it messed up the nice pretty curve I had in them. They were not extensions...so I couldn't just flip both sides of the connectors around. This will be addressed in the 3.0 update going on now. 

Anyway...here are some pics of version 2.5 of the BBBB:



















































































Working on version 3.0 right now! Will include Rampage VI board, new blocks, new wiring, Optane drive and upgrading the M.2 drive.


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## cpachris

And a short video for perspective.....


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## Barefooter

Well... version 2.5 looks great! 

Looking forward to version 3.0 as well :thumb:


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## nvidiaftw12

Noice.

I'm suprised you ran 690s so long. But once that upgrade bug bit, it bit hard.

INB4 gonx locks this thread for necroposting.


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## taowulf

If a thread is going to come back from the dead, it is better Sooner than later.

Sorry, I had to.


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## cpachris

Barefooter said:


> Well... version 2.5 looks great!
> 
> Looking forward to version 3.0 as well :thumb:


Thanks Barefooter. Our hardware will be similar once we are both done. I've got the Rampage VI and Intel Optane drive sitting on my table already. Just got a 7980xe from Silicon Lottery also. 



nvidiaftw12 said:


> Noice.
> 
> I'm suprised you ran 690s so long. But once that upgrade bug bit, it bit hard.
> 
> INB4 gonx locks this thread for necroposting.










Shhhhhhhhh.......maybe INB4 won't notice us. 



taowulf said:


> If a thread is going to come back from the dead, it is better Sooner than later.
> 
> Sorry, I had to.


+1 for you good sir. Boomer!


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## Simmons572

Glad to see this thread alive again


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## cpachris

Apologies in advance for the crappy phone pics.... But I can't develop any real pics while computer is down. Just a quick update.... new hardware installed, and I'm leak testing right now. Will try and and boot this thing tonight.


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## cpachris

Grrrrr....stuck on splash screen. A0 HDD detect code. Can't even get into BIOS. Have to start eliminating components as the cause. Time consuming when every change requires a drain and refill.


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## DiGiCiDAL

cpachris said:


> Grrrrr....stuck on splash screen. A0 HDD detect code. Can't even get into BIOS. Have to start eliminating components as the cause. Time consuming when every change requires a drain and refill.


Usually that's the last code thrown by an ASUS board and it stays even after booting - at least it does if you are running SATA RAID. I'd definitely try a boot without drives connected to see if you can get to BIOS - at least before the hassle of draining/pull/refill/repeat cycles.

I'm assuming based on your post that you didn't do a breadbox run on air? I swear every time I skip doing that I wind up having to RMA something - and every time I do it... everything works perfectly to begin with and it wasn't necessary. Murphy can be a real ahole some times.


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## cpachris

DiGiCiDAL said:


> Usually that's the last code thrown by an ASUS board and it stays even after booting - at least it does if you are running SATA RAID. I'd definitely try a boot without drives connected to see if you can get to BIOS - at least before the hassle of draining/pull/refill/repeat cycles.
> 
> I'm assuming based on your post that you didn't do a breadbox run on air? I swear every time I skip doing that I wind up having to RMA something - and every time I do it... everything works perfectly to begin with and it wasn't necessary. Murphy can be a real ahole some times.


The only drives hooked up were through the Areca 1883ix card, and then my new Intel Optane 900p, and a 1TB Samsung 960 Pro M.2. The M.2 was installed underneath the board armor....so it took a full drain and pull parts to get back to it. And sure enough....it was the M.2 keeping it from posting. Not sure why. But I can boot fine without it now. I'm glad I don't need to RMA the board...but now I need to figure out what's up with this M.2 drive. I'll see if it works in another build I guess. 

No...no air run this time. I really need to keep a little test bench or something that is air cooled. It is just such a hassle to test a new motherboard on air cooling in your regular build when some of the components are already water cooled. Have to do some temporary water lines that bypass the normal spots. Not fun. 

Anyway....I'm up and running now and installing the O/S and programs on the Intel Optane drive. 

Has anyone had issues with a Samsung M.2 drive that they have solved? Care to share?


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## cpachris

Ran into another temporary snag. The Rampage VI Extreme only has one 9-pin motherboard USB header. The Rampage V Edition 10 had two of these. The VI has more of the USB 3 headers, but less of the USB 2 headers. Progress I guess....but I have devices that require USB 2.0 headers. I used to have my two aquaeros wired into one of these headers and the Supreme FX front panel board connected to the other. I guess I'll either have to use a USB splitter, or do something where I make 9-pin male to USB type A cable and run it out the back of the case and plug into ports on the motherboard.


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## Barefooter

cpachris said:


> The only drives hooked up were through the Areca 1883ix card, and then my new Intel Optane 900p, and a 1TB Samsung 960 Pro M.2. * The M.2 was installed underneath the board armor....so it took a full drain and pull parts to get back to it.* And sure enough....it was the M.2 keeping it from posting. Not sure why. But I can boot fine without it now. I'm glad I don't need to RMA the board...but now I need to figure out what's up with this M.2 drive. I'll see if it works in another build I guess.
> 
> No...no air run this time. I really need to keep a little test bench or something that is air cooled. It is just such a hassle to test a new motherboard on air cooling in your regular build when some of the components are already water cooled. Have to do some temporary water lines that bypass the normal spots. Not fun.
> 
> Anyway....I'm up and running now and installing the O/S and programs on the Intel Optane drive.
> 
> Has anyone had issues with a Samsung M.2 drive that they have solved? Care to share?


 
That's a bummer! After I got my Rampage VI board, I decided I would never use the M.2 slot under the armor for that very reason. If you have a problem with the drive, or want to put a larger one in, you have to drain and disassemble the loop to swap it out.

You can use the DIMM.2 module for that M.2 drive.

Also you may have a problem with your second video card being in the second slot. The manual shows when using two video cards the second card should go in the third x16 slot where you have the Intel 900p now.

I had my 900p in the last slot where you currently have your Areca 1883ix card, but I plan to move it to the x4 slot between the two video cards.


Edit: I just checked the manual. Looks like the second video card will work in the second slot but only at x8, the third slot would give you x16.


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## cpachris

Barefooter said:


> That's a bummer! After I got my Rampage VI board, I decided I would never use the M.2 slot under the armor for that very reason. If you have a problem with the drive, or want to put a larger one in, you have to drain and disassemble the loop to swap it out.
> 
> You can use the DIMM.2 module for that M.2 drive.
> 
> Also you may have a problem with your second video card being in the second slot. The manual shows when using two video cards the second card should go in the third x16 slot where you have the Intel 900p now.
> 
> I had my 900p in the last slot where you currently have your Areca 1883ix card, but I plan to move it to the x4 slot between the two video cards.
> 
> 
> Edit: I just checked the manual. Looks like the second video card will work in the second slot but only at x8, the third slot would give you x16.


I may plaY with the DIMM.2 module since it won't require any disassembly. But I wasn't confident on what settings would allow the DIMM.2 module not to pull any lanes from the PCIe slots. I have all 4 of those slots populated. The 900p doesn't need 8 lanes....but the DIMM.2 module pulls from slot 4, and my Areca card needs to go in slot 4 since I have water coming up and attaching to the bottom of the card. If I didn't have this issue...I could put the 900p in the 4th slot and not worry about the lanes being shared by the DIMM.2. Keep me posted if you find out more info on the DIMM.2 slot. 

I toyed with the idea of putting the 900p in the x4 slot where you said you were going to move it. I didn't just because the graphics cards are dual slot brackets...so I'd have to cut or modify one to attach the 900p in there. Let me know if that works for you. 

I think the only reason the manual suggests slot 3 for 2nd graphics card, is it is capable of 16x. But since I have all 4 slots occupied...it wouldn't get more than 8x lanes regardless. 

WHO'S GONNA BE THE 4,000TH POST???!!!


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## Barefooter

cpachris said:


> I may plaY with the DIMM.2 module since it won't require any disassembly. But I wasn't confident on what settings would allow the DIMM.2 module not to pull any lanes from the PCIe slots. I have all 4 of those slots populated. The 900p doesn't need 8 lanes....but the DIMM.2 module pulls from slot 4, and my Areca card needs to go in slot 4 since I have water coming up and attaching to the bottom of the card. If I didn't have this issue...I could put the 900p in the 4th slot and not worry about the lanes being shared by the DIMM.2. Keep me posted if you find out more info on the DIMM.2 slot.
> 
> I toyed with the idea of putting the 900p in the x4 slot where you said you were going to move it. I didn't just because the graphics cards are dual slot brackets...so I'd have to cut or modify one to attach the 900p in there. Let me know if that works for you.
> 
> I think the only reason the manual suggests slot 3 for 2nd graphics card, is it is capable of 16x. But since I have all 4 slots occupied...it wouldn't get more than 8x lanes regardless.
> 
> WHO'S GONNA BE THE 4,000TH POST???!!!



I have not used a M.2 drive or the Dimm.2 module yet. I attached the manual page, that gives you your options. In the bios you can set the M.2_1 side of the Dimm.2 module to use lanes from the CPU or the PCH. If you use the PCH it disables the x4 slot (third slot down). If you use the CPU lanes, the U.2 port is disabled.

You cannot use the M.2_2 side of the Dimm.2 module without disabling four of eight lanes to the last card. Which would not work for your situation.

I did move my Intel 900p into the times x4 slot to see if it would fit ok. It seems to fit there with a dual slot video card in the first slot and another one in the third x16 slot (fourth slot down). That is test fitting with the stock GTX690 card I have in there. I think it should fit for you too without any cutting or modding needed. You'd just have to change out your bridge and water terminal.

Here's how you could set it up if you wanted to max the lanes to the second video card:
Slot 1 - Video Card x16
Slot 2 - Empty
Slot 3 - Intel 900p x4
Slot 4 - Video Card x16
Slot 5 - Areca 1883ix card x8

You could then still use one side of the Dimm.2 module with one M.2 drive providing you don't need the U.2 port.

Otherwise just leave everything the way it is, and the second video card will be at x8 which probably won't make much of any difference anyway.

You actually made post #4,000. Congrats on 4,000 posts that is amazing :thumb:


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## cpachris

Barefooter said:


> If you use the CPU lanes, the U.2 port is disabled.
> 
> Here's how you could set it up if you wanted to max the lanes to the second video card:
> Slot 1 - Video Card x16
> Slot 2 - Empty
> Slot 3 - Intel 900p x4
> Slot 4 - Video Card x16
> Slot 5 - Areca 1883ix card x8
> 
> You could then still use one side of the Dimm.2 module with one M.2 drive providing you don't need the U.2 port.
> 
> Otherwise just leave everything the way it is, and the second video card will be at x8 which probably won't make much of any difference anyway.


Interesting....I have no plans for the u.2 as this time, so this is an option if I wanted to get 16x lanes to the 2nd 1080Ti. It would come at the cost of running the 900p on the chipset lanes instead of the CPU lanes. I've read the CPU lanes are theoretically faster....but probably not a noticeable difference for one drive. But I've also read that the difference in 8x and 16x lanes on PCIe 3.0 is also negligible. 

I might try this setup anyway since it would let me use an ASUS Aura Bridge (can't right now based on the slots being used). Thanks for the thoughts!


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## DiGiCiDAL

cpachris said:


> Interesting....I have no plans for the u.2 as this time, so this is an option if I wanted to get 16x lanes to the 2nd 1080Ti. It would come at the cost of running the 900p on the chipset lanes instead of the CPU lanes. I've read the CPU lanes are theoretically faster....but probably not a noticeable difference for one drive. But I've also read that the difference in 8x and 16x lanes on PCIe 3.0 is also negligible.
> 
> I might try this setup anyway since it would let me use an ASUS Aura Bridge (can't right now based on the slots being used). Thanks for the thoughts!


In my experience it definitely is negligible... with 980's, nothing - with 1080s, less than 5%, seems like recent tests with Titan V's... maybe as much as 30% (or as little as 10%). I'd say it depends mostly on what you're loading the cards with - maybe if it's deep learning software or huge rendering tasks you'd see a benefit - but in a game at even 4K it's probably like 3fps or so.


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## cpachris

After suffering through one of the worst football seasons I can remember, I have decided that this is a sign that the Big Budget Boomer Box needs to be retired. The case has served me well and has been through 3 major rebuilds. But alas...it has served it's time. 

Any suggestions on the most innovative cases out there today? I really haven't been that plugged into the case scene lately.....


----------

